! i
A
MERICAN
From the collection of the
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Prejinger
Jjibrary
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San Francisco, California
2006
A 7lu W
/\ME RICAN WOMAN'S
COOK BOOK
Edited and Revised by
Rtttn Bcrol^neimcr
Directory-
Culinary Arts Institute
From the
DELINEATOR COOK BOOK
Edited by
Delineator Institute,
Mildred Haddocks Bentley, Director
Martha Van Rensselaer and Flora Rose
Directors, College of Home Economics
-Cornell University
Published for
CULINARY ARTS INSTITUTE
by
CONSOLIDATED BOOK PUBLISHERS, INC.
CHICAGO, 1939
Copyright, 1939
by
Consolidated Book Publishers,
Incorporated
Chicago, 111.
Copyrights of previous works in which
certain parts of this book appeared
Copyright,
MCMXXVIII
MCMXXXIV
by
Butterick Publishing Company
Entered at Stationers' Hall, London, England
Copyright,
MCMXXXVIII
by
Consolidated Book Publishers,
Incorporated
Manufactured in the United States of America
by The Cuneo Press, Inc.
Table of Contents
PAGE
Useful Facts about Food - 1
How to Buy Food - 35
Food Values and Meal
Planning - - - - 39
Menu Making - 47
The Scliool Lunch - 60
Table Setting and Service 64
Carving - 83
Garnishes - - - - 88
Cereals ------ 92
Yeast Breads 97
Quick Breads - - - - 117
Sandwiches - - - - 131
Toast ------ 156
Appetizers - - - - - 158
Soups ------165
Soup Accessories - - - 186
Fish - - - - 191
Meat - 228
Poultry and Game - - 274
Stuffings for Fish, Meat,
Poultry and Game - - 303
Sauces for Fish, Meat,
Poultry, Game and
Vegetables - - - - 307
Entrees and Made- Over
Dishes ----- 326
Vegetarian Dishes - - - 351
Egg Dishes - - - - - 360
Cheese 374
Vegetables - - - - - 383
Salads 424
PAGE
Salad Dressings - - 446
Cakes - - - - - 451
Cake Fillings and Frost -
ings ----- 472
Cookies, Doughnuts, Gin-
gerbread, Small Cakes - 483
Candies - 502
Fruit Desserts - - - - 517
Custards, Gelatin and
Cream Desserts - - 525
Hot and Cold Puddings - 539
Frozen Desserts - - - 557
Sauces for Desserts - - 579
Pastry and Meringues - 585
French Recipes - - - 615
Hot and Cold Beverages 635
Food for Invalids - - - 650
High Altitude Cooking - 657
Canning, Preserving and
Jelly Making - - - 658
Pickles and Relishes - - 687
Casserole and Oven Cook-
ery 701
Cooking for Two - - - 710
Cooking at the Table - - 718
Food Equivalents - - - 722
The Friends Who Honor
Us - 724
Herbs, Spices, Extracts - 730
Foreign Words and Phrases 734
Wine Seasons Fine Food - 737
Index 759
List of Illustrations
PAGE
REFER
ILLUSTRATION TO PACE
PAGE
REFER
ILLUSTRATION TO PAGE
APPETIZERS
486A
Frosted Delights - 484
164B
160 A
164 A
164B
Appetizers - - - - 162
Canapes and Appetiz-
ers (color) - 158-162
Cocktail Tray - - - 158
Individual Sandwich
471B
480A
486A
486A
457A
Fruit Cake - - - - 465
How to Frost a Cake - 472
How to Make Cookies 483
Icebox Cookies - - - 485
Martha Washington
T r**airrf=kC ISO
Pie 469, 474
480B
Novelty Frostings - 478-482
BREADS
486B
Petits Fours - - - - 496
122A
Apple Flapjacks - - 121
486B
Sugar Cookies - - - 484
1 ^ e A
A CQr^rtArJ f^ni^V Rr^or^c
406 A
T" rtA Ajdf
1 70 1 ^0
Tt.yO ( /\
471 A
TT 'r\ T) C ]f A
100B
Assorted Rolls - - - 110
T / l/\
471B
White Mountain Cake 461
100A
Braided Bread - - 101
CANDIES
106 A
Bread and Rolls
496B
Assorted Candies - - 502
(color) - - - 108-1 IX)
56C
Pulled Sugar - - - - 516
332A
100B
Bread Croustades - - 329
Clover-Leaf Rolls - - 109
56C
Spun Sugar - - - - 515
125A
157B
100B
112A
100A
125A
Corn Bread - - - - 127
Gingerbread - - - - 494
Cornucopia - - - - 157
Crescent Rolls - - - 109
English Muffins - - - 110
Folding the Dough - 101
Gingerbread - - - - 494
Corn Bread - - - - 127
378B
390B
758
187A
187 A
378A
CHEESE
Cheese Biscuit - - - 382
Cheese Fondue on
Asparagus - - - 623
Cheese Fruit Tray - - 374
Cheese Rolls - - - - 186
Cheese Sticks - - 186, 381
Cheese Tray - - - 374
112A
112B
100 A
112B
Honey Sandwich Loaf - 129
Honey Twist - - - 115
Kneading the Dough - 100
Pecan Caramel Rolls - 126
Swedish Tea Ring - - 111
43 5A
435B
139B
435B
378A
Frosted Melon - - - 440
Pear-Grape Salad - - 440
Toasted Cheese Loaf - 157
Tomato Rose Salad - 434
Welsh Rarebit - - - 377
122B
Popovers ----- 119
DESSERTS
125B
Sally Lunn - - - - 126
572A
Baked Alaska - - - 568
125B
Scones 126
24B
Banana Fritters - - - 493
112B
Swedish Tea Ring - - 111
535B
Bavarian Cream - - 534
Pecan Caramel Rolls - 126
572B
Bombes ----- 578
157B
Toast 156
535B
Charlotte Russe - - 536
157A
Toasted Loaf - 157
122B
Coffee Cakes - - - 113
122 A
Waffles ----- 122
549B
Date Pudding - - - 550
CAKES, COOKIES
549B
549A
English Plum Pudding 548
Fruit Pudding - - 549
457B
Cakes of Many
6A
Fruit Tartlets - - - 604
Varieties - - 451-471
535A
Garnishing Custards - 554
471 A
Chocolate Marshmallow
53 5A
Hard Sauce - - - - 581
Roll A~ff\
c f/"D
JOOD
Ice Cream in Canta-
457A
Devil's Food Cake - 458
IV
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
REFER
ILLUSTRATION TO PAGE
PAGE
REFER
ILLUSTRATION TO PAGE
566B
Ice Cream in Meringue
MEATS
Cups - -
499
363B
Bacon
265
572B
Ice Cream Sandwich -
569
Fluffy Eggs - - - -
373
496A
Plum Puddings - - -
548
290A
Boning and Stuffing
5 49 A
Rennet-Custard - - -
554
Shoulder - - - - -
303
496B
Shortcake - - - -
547
256B
Breast of Lamb - - -
258
5 66 A
Vanilla Ice Cream with
Stuffed Onions - - -
403
Strawberries - - -
563
2 64 A
Candle Roast of Pork -
259
85A
Carving Leg O'Lamb -
85
EGGS
85B
Carving Steak and Roast
363B
Fluffy Eggs - - - -
373
02
,84
TJ
265
256A
Crown Roast of Lamb -
256
363B
Ham and Eggs - - -
264
341A
Flank Steak Fillets - -
343
363A
Poached Eggs - - -
360
Onion Sauce - - -
315
363A
Puffy Omelet - - -
363
363B
Ham and Eggs - - -
264
t
256A
Leg O'Lamb - - - -
257
ENTREES
341B
Meat Balls - - - -
245
332A
Bread Croustades - -
329
230A,
B,QD
332D
Chicken Mousse- - -
350
Meat Cut Charts - -
230
332A
Creamed Salmon - -
219
243B
Planked Steak - - -
244
341B
Croquettes - - - 335-341
239A,
B Pot Roast of Beef -
239
157A
Entree Treasure Chest
621B
Rechauffe of Lamb -
620
2-?q
224
242A
Roast Beef with York-
332B
Muffin Tin Timbales
shire Pudding
227
220
(color) - ...
242
328A
Noodle Ring with
jj\j
243A
Roasting Beef - - -
242
Creamed Chicken
243B
Rolled Roast - - - -
231
332D
(color) - - - -
Noodle Ring with
Vegetables - - - -
344
344
621B
2 64 A
341A
Sausage and Corn - -
Stuffed Ham - - - -
Stuffed Peppers - - 346,
619
263
347
332C
Timbale Cases - - -
331
PIES. PASTRIES
Timbales of Toast - -
333
606A
Coconut Cream Pie
(color) - 598,
600
EQUIPMENT
594B
Fruit Dumplings - -
548
32A
Food Mixer - - - -
3
594A
How to Keep Pies in
34
Gadgets -----
Shape
587
6A
6B
38
Oven Management - -
Using Oven and Broiler
A Well-Planned Kitchen
5
2
587A,
594A
594B
B How to Make Pies -
Lattice Top Crust -
Pastry Pinwheels -
585
587
610
POULTRY
FISH
290B
Boning and Rolling
196B
Baked Fish -
196
*^r 1
196A
Cooking Salmon - -
193
85A
Carving Poultry - - -
86
332A
Creamed Salmon - -
219
332D
Chicken Mousse - -
350
196B
Lobster - - - - -
218
407A
Chicken Ring - - -
350
216A
Planked Fish (color) -
200
276B
Brussels Sprouts - -
Methods of Trussing
392
JELLIES, PRESERVES
r> 1
276
683A,
B Jelly -
681
264B
Preparing Poultry - -
275
676A
Orange Marmalade
675
296A
Roast Chicken (color)
277
676A
^7R
Peach Preserves - - -
670
667
276A
Stuffing and Roasting
Chicken - - - -
277
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
REFER
ILLUSTRATION TO PAGE
PAGE
REFER
ILLUSTRATION TO PAGE
PROCESSES
TABLE SETTINGS
24B
32B
24A
32B
Clarifying Fat - - -
Correct Measurements -
Deep Fat Frying - -
Whipping Cream - -
2^
13
24
33
56B
76A
76B,
76D
Bridal Breakfast Table -
Buffet Dining Table -
C Dinner Service Chart
Table Settings - - -
57
726
76
76
427A
SALADS
Cabbage in Aspic - -
428
56B
Thanksgiving Dinner
Table
56
435A
Frosted Melon - - -
440
435A
Fruit Salad Bowl -
441
VEGETABLES
436A
435B
427B
Molded Fruit Salad
(color) - - 427, 437,
Pear-Grape Salad
Salad Bowl - - - -
530
440
441
390B
390B
Artichokes with Hol-
landaise Sauce - 388,
Asparagus with Cheese
312
427B
435B
Stuffed Tomato - - -
Tomato Rose Salad
433
434
621A
Fondue - - - -
Asparagus with Hol-
623
427A
Vegetable Plate with 388
-423
landaise Sauce - 389,
312
Hollandaise Sauce -
312
407A
Brussels Sprouts - -
392
SANDWICHES
T Q/iR
Chicken Ring - - -
350
o c c
164B
I ndi vidual Sandwich
Loaves
150
;?yOij
407B
Cauliflower - - - -
JJJ
393
139B
Sandwiches - - - 131
-155
Potato Cups - - - -
408
139A
Sandwich Loaf -
150
1Q/C A
(-.
ao<;
1 J t /A\
139A
Sandwich Treasure
^ vo/x
621B
Corn with Sausage - -
oy .>
619
Chest
132
621A
Lima Beans Neufchatel
625
139B
Toasted Cheese Loaf -
157
407B
Pigs in Taters - - -
406
SOUPS
407B
Potato Cups - - - -
408
190
Assorted Soup Acces-
Cauliflower - - - -
393
187A
187A
170B
sories
Cheese Rolls - - - -
Cheese Sticks - - 186,
Consomme - - - -
186
186
381
168
m"
407A
256B
341A
Squash - - - - -
Stuffed Onions - - -
Breast of Lamb - - -
Stuffed Peppers - - 346,
418
403
258
347
170A
170B
Cream of Corn Soup -
Cream Soup - - - -
178
177
396B
3 90 A
Toasted Carrots - - -
Vegetable Cookery - -
393
385
170B
Pea Soup - - - -
174
91
Vegetable Garnishes -
90
Consomme - - - 168,
171
427A
Vegetable Plate with 388
-423
187B
Soup Accessories - -
186
Hollandaise Sauce
312
AT YOUR SERVICE
Unless otherwise specified, all recipes are based on service for six
persons. When cooking for more, multiply the ingredients in direct
proportion. When fewer are to be served, divide by two or three
as necessary. A full discussion of the problems of small quantity
preparations is found in the chapter entitled "Cooking for Two"
VI
m
m
p II
THE FORMAL
TEA PARTY IS THE
OPPORTUNITY FOR AIL
YOUR DAINTIEST. TOUCHES
The editor wishes to acknowledge the gen-
erous and wholehearted cooperation of those
who put at our disposal the beautiful photo-
graphs and color plates ^vhich appear in
this book.
Armour and Company
The Best Foods, Inc.
Booth Fisheries Corporation
Campbell Soup Company
Canned Salmon Industry
Chicago Flexible Shaft Company
Corn Products Refining Company
Corning Class Works
Fostoria Class Company
Fruit Dispatch Company
Caper Catering Company
General Foods Corporation
Hawaiian Pineapple Company, Ltd.
Hotpoint
Institute American Poultry Industries
Irradiated Evaporated Milk Institute
John F. Jelke Company
The Junket Folks
Kalamazoo Vegetable Parchment
Company
Kraft- Phenix Cheese Corporation
Mandel Brothers
Mirro Aluminum
Modern Science Institute
National Dairy Council
National Live Stock and Meat Board
The Palmer House
Peoples Gas Light and Coke Company
Reed and Barton
Sterling Silversmiths Guild of America
Swift and Company
Towle Manufacturing Company
U. S. Bureau Home Economics
West Bend Aluminum Company
Wheat Flour Institute
All color plates, end papers and illustrations on the jacket are
by courtesy of
THE CARNATION MILK COMPANY
and
LAND 0' LAKES CREAMERIES
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT
FOOD
USE OF RECIPES
TO become a good cook requires more than the blind follow-
ing of a recipe. This is frequently illustrated when several
women living in the same community, all using the same
recipe, obtain widely differing results. It is the reason so many
cooks say, "I had good luck with my cake to-day," or "I had
bad luck with my bread yesterday." Happily, luck causes
neither the success nor the failure of a product. To become a
good cook means to gain a knowledge of foods and how they
behave, and skill in manipulating them. The recipe by itself,
helpful as it is, will not produce a good product; the human
being using the recipe must interpret it and must have skill in
handling the materials it prescribes.
Some of the lessons which the person desiring to become a
good cook should learn are given in the following pages. They
will not be learned all at once; but if they are gradually
mastered, luck will play a less important part in culinary con-
versation.
Methods of Cooking Food
BOILING is cooking in water at a temperature of 212
Fahrenheit. At this temperature water will bubble vigorously
and as these bubbles come to the surface of the water steam
is given off. (In mountainous regions, where the boiling-point
is affected by atmospheric pressure, allowance must be made
for the variation.)
SIMMERING is cooking in water at a temperature of 180 F.
to 210 F., or below the boiling-point of water. Only an oc-
casional bubble is formed and rises slowly to the surface.
STEWING is cooking in a small amount of water. The water
may boil or simmer, as indicated for the food that is to be
cooked.
STEAMING is cooking in the steam generated by boiling water.
PRESSURE COOKING is cooking in steam at a pressure of 5 to
30 pounds and at temperatures 228 F. to 274 F. The rise
in the temperature of the steam is caused by holding it under
pressure. A special cooker is necessary for this cooking. From
10 to 15 pounds (240 to 250 F.) is the pressure ordinarily
used for household purposes.
BROILING is cooking over or under or in front of a fire of
live coals or a gas or electric burner, or other direct heat.
OVEN BROILING is cooking in a broiler pan (either with or
without a rack) that runs close under the heat in the broiling
oven of a gas or electric stove.
PAN BROILING is cooking in a hot griddle or pan greased only
enough to prevent food from sticking.
BAKING is cooking in the oven. The temperature of baking
varies with the food to be prepared. A slow oven should be
from 250 F. to 350 F. A moderate oven should be from
350 F. to 400 F. A hot oven should be from 400 F. to
450 F. A very hot oven should be from 450 F. to 550 F.
POACHING is cooking, for a short time, foods such as eggs or
fish or mixtures of these foods, in water, milk, or stock, just
below the boiling temperature.
OVEN POACHING is cooking in the oven in a dish set in hot
water. The method is used for custards, souffles, and other egg
mixtures of delicate texture which are cooked in the oven.
ROASTING as now used means the same as baking. Originally
it meant cooking before an open fire and was similar to broil-
ing.
FRYING is cooking in hot fat at a temperature of from
350 F. to 400 F., depending on the nature of the food
to be cooked. The article to be cooked is immersed in the fat.
SAUTEING is cooking in a small quantity of fat. The article
to be cooked must be shifted from side to side to come in con-
tact with the fat. Sauteing is a cross between pan broiling
and frying.
BRAIZING is a combination of stewing or steaming with bak-
ing. The food to be braized is first stewed or steamed and then
baked.
FRICASSEEING is a combination of sauteing with stewing or
steaming. The food to be fricasseed is first sauted, then stewed
or steamed.
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD
s~*^*S* lt S\*r* l ^\^^^\S**-'*>~i^~s*^^^
FIRELESS COOKING is cooking by heat that has been retained
in a fireless cooker or insulated oven. It is accomplished by
surrounding the thoroughly heated food with some insulating
material to keep the heat from being lost rapidly.
Methods of Mixing Food
STIRRING Food is stirred by a rotary motion of the arm.
The purpose of stirring is to mix thoroughly all ingredients.
BEATING Food is beaten when the motion in mixing brings
the contents at the bottom of the bowl to the top and there is
a continual turning over and over of a considerable part of the
contents of the bowl. The purpose of beating is to enclose a
large amount of air.
FOLDING IN Two foods are blended by putting the spoon or
egg- whip vertically down through the foods, turning it under
the mass, and bringing it vertically up. This process is repeated
until the mixing is complete. The purpose of folding in is to
prevent the escape of air or gases that have already been intro-
duced into the mixture.
CUTTING IN A process used to blend fat with flour. It
consists of cutting the fat into the flour with a knife or two
knives until it is distributed in as small particles as desired.
CREAMING A rubbing together of fat and sugar, or a press-
ing and beating of fat to soften it.
KNEADING A stretching motion applied to dough when
more flour is to be added than can be either stirred or beaten
into the mixture; or used to make a dough smooth and even in
consistency.
LARDING A process of inserting match-like strips of salt
pork about one-fourth inch in thickness into a dry meat or fish.
These strips are called lardons, and are inserted either by mak-
ing an incision in the surface and laying the lardon in the slash-
ing or by the use of a larding-needle. The pork is clamped into
one end of the needle and is threaded into the meat, as in any
sewing process.
COOKING BY TEMPERATURE
For best results in cooking, exact temperatures should be
known and followed. This requires the use of thermometers
such as an oven thermometer or an oven-heat regulator for all
sorts of baking, and special thermometers for sugar cookery,
deep-fat frying, and roasting meats.
AUTOMATIC MECHANICAL OVEN-HEAT REGULATORS which
control temperature automatically by regulating the supply of
heat are available in both gas and electric ranges. These are of
great assistance alike to the experienced cook who would always
obtain the same results with a given recipe and to the beginner
who has nothing to guide her in estimating the length of time
required to get the slow, moderate and hot stages in her oven.
HEAT REGULATORS OR TEMPERATURE CONTROLS must al-
ways be built into a gas range at the factory, and they must
usually be built into electric ranges. For both types of stove
they may be set to control a desired temperature automatically.
Once set, they will maintain the temperature to within a few
degrees Fahrenheit of that indicated, for an indefinite period.
TIME CONTROLS are now quite common on modern ranges
and even on fireless cookers, and, in combination with the
temperature controls, they are almost uncanny, for they will
turn heat on at a definite time and off again at another speci-
fied moment. This makes it possible to put a meal in the oven
or cooker in the morning and leave it with the assurance that
it will start to cook at five o'clock in the afternoon and that
the heat will be turned off again at five forty-five. As today's
ovens and cookers are thoroughly insulated, the heat retained
in the oven wall and in the food will complete the cooking.
Moreover, since they are cooking on a decreasing heat, there
is little or no danger of burning food, even if you should be
delayed beyond the time when you planned to return.
THERMOMETERS THAT CAN BE SET IN THE OVEN may be
used where an oven heat regulator is not available. A small
flash light is useful for reading them in a dark oven.
OTHER THERMOMETERS may be bought for candy and
frosting, for deep fat frying, and for roasting meats. The cost
of these thermometers is not large and they will soon pay for
themselves in saving of time and food.
IF THESE DEVICES ARE NOT AVAILABLE the next best thing
is to seek to develop delicacy of feeling and knowledge of prac-
tical tests which will detect differences in temperatures. This ?
of course, comes only with experience.
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD
Cooking Periods and Temperatures
Oven Temperatures for Baking
Degrees Fahrenheit
Slow oven 250 to 350
Moderate oven 350 to 400
Quick or hot oven 400 to 450
Very hot oven 450 to 550
Note Explaining the Use of Figures in the Following Tables.
When two degrees of temperature or two periods of time are given,
separated by a dash, (e.g. 350 375 or 30 40) it means that the
temperature of the cooking medium or the length of the cooking
period may range between these two extremes.
"When the temperature figures are separated by the word "to" (e.g.
400 to 350) it means that cooking is to be started at the tempera-
ture first given and that the heat is afterward to be reduced to the
second figure.
TABLE I
BREAD, CAKES, COOKIES AND PASTRY
BAKED
To bake loav.es of yeast bread, heat the oven to the higher tempera-
ture given, and leave it at this degree for about fifteen minutes. Then
reduce it to the lower figure for the remainder of the baking period.
See table of oven temperatures above.
Temperature of Oven
Degrees Fahrenheit Baking Period
Yeast, white (loaves) 400 to 375 Minutes 60
graham or whole wheat
(loaves) 400to350 " 60
Baking-powder (quick bread,
loaves) 400 " 40 50
Corn bread (sheets) 400 Minutes 20 25
Biscuits, baking-powder 450 460 12 15
Muffins, yeast 400 425 20 30
baking-powder 400 425 20 25
Popovers 450 to 350 35 40
Rolls, yeast 400 425 20 25
Temperature of Oven
Cake Degrees Fahrenheit
Angel 275300
Butter, plain loaf 350 375
sheet or cup 375
layer 375
pound 350
Fruit, small 325
large 275
Molasses, sheet 350 375
cup 350375
Sponge, loaf 300325
sheet 325
Cookies
Drop 375 400
Filled 400 425
Ginger snaps 375
Macaroons 250 300
Molasses 350375
Thin, rolled 350375
Gingerbread 350375
Pastry
Cheese straws, etc 500
Cream puffs and eclairs 400 to 350
Meringues, cooked separately . .250 300
on pies and puddings 300 350
Pie crust, shells, large pies . . . .450 500
tarts 400 450
Pies, double crust with fruit
filling 450to425
single crust, (custard,
pumpkin, etc.) 450 to 325
Turnovers, etc 450
Baking Period
Minutes 60 75
" 4560
20 30
20
" 6075
7590
Hours 3 4
Minutes 25 30
1525
4060
" 30
1215
1015
810
1520
1820
1012
30 40
Minutes 10
45
4060
S 10
20 40
1520
" 40
40
15
TABLE II
CUSTARDS, SOUFFLES, SCALLOPED DISHES
AND PUDDINGS
BAKED
For table of oven temperatures, see page 5
Au Gratin Dishes Degrees Fahrenheit Baking Period
(to brown crumbs) ........ .400 Minutes 10
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD
,^^X>/-N*X% 1 X-N B1 ^S^N - ^VX-X>'N^''^
Custards Degrees Fahrenheit Baking Period
Large (surrounded by water) . . . 300 350 Minutes 35 45
In cups (surrounded by water) 300 350 20 25
Puddings
Batter, cottage, etc 375 400 35 45
Bread 250350 4560
Indian 250350 Hours 23
Rice or tapioca 250 350 1 2
Scalloped Dishes
(not potatoes) 350 400 Minutes 15 30
Souffles
(surrounded by water) 375 20 30
Timbales
(surrounded by water) 250 325 35 45
TABLE III
MEAT, POULTRY AND FISH
ROASTED
For table of oven temperatures, see page 5
The number of minutes per pound which a roast requires for
cooking at a given temperature is only an approximation. The
accurate way of determining doneness is by the internal tem-
perature shown on the meat thermometer inserted into the roast.
All boned cuts require longer cooking time than those with
the bones left in. Allow about 10 minutes per pound longer for
cooking boned cuts.
Many hams now on the market require shorter cooking time.
For these hams, follow directions given with them.
If one wishes to sear meat, the oven may be preheated (450-
475 F.) and the meat placed in the hot oven for 10 or 15 min-
utes, then the temperature reduced quickly to 300 F. for the
rest of the cooking period. Searing, however, does not keep in
juices. The constant low temperature method is preferred.
Oven Temperature Roasting Period
Meat Total, hrs.
Braized meats 350 F. 22^
Meat en casserole 350 F. 2 2l/ 2
Meat pie with crust (meat previously Total, mins.
cooked) 450 F. 30
Oven Internal Minutes
Beef Temperature Temperature Per Pound
Rare 300 F. 140 F. 18 to 20
Medium 300 F. 160 F. 22 to 25
Well done 300 F. 170 F. 27 to 30
Pork
Fresh (always well done) . 350 F. 185 F. 30 to 35
Smoked 300 F. 170 F. 25 to 30
Lamb and Mutton
Medium 300 F. 175 F. 25 to 30
Well done 300 F. 180 F. 30 to 35
Veal 300 F. 170 F. 25 to 30
Poultry
Chicken 325 350 F. 2230
Duck, Goose 325 350 F. 2025
Turkey 300 350 F. 1525
Fish Total, mins.
Large 425 to 350 F. 1520
Small or riHets 425 to 350 F. 2030
SIMMERED OR BOILED
Simmering temperatures range from 180 F. to 210 F.
Meat Cooking Period
Fresh
Pot roasts (3-4 Ibs.) Total, hrs. 2 6
o-1 It tt j
Swiss steak
Corned or smoked (4-5 Ibs.) Mins. per Ib. 30 40
Ham Total, hrs. 4 5
Ox tongue 3 4
Poultry
Chicken (3 pounds) - 1V 2
Fowl (4 to 5 pounds)
Turkey (10 pounds) 3 5 l / 2
Fish
Small, thin Mins. per Ib. 5 10
Large, thick 1015
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD
BROILED OR SAUTEED
Meat
Chops, lamb or mutton
pork or veal
Liver, calves or lambs
Steak, 1 inch thick (rare to medium)
l l /2 inch thick (rare to medium) .
Poultry
Chicken
Quail
Squab
Fish
Fillets
Shad, whitefish, bluefish, etc.
Cooking Period
Total, mins. 15 20
2030
10 15
1Q
" " 815
2030
10 20
10 20
515
1520
FRIED
For fried meats, poultry and fish, see Table IV, following
TABLE IV
FRIED FOODS
Deep Fat Frying
Temperature of Fat
Degrees Fahrenheit
Croquettes
And all previously cooked foods 375 390
Doughnuts, Fritters
And all raw batter and dough
mixtures 360 370
Fish
Fillets (sole, cod, etc.) 390
Frogs' legs 390
Small fish (smelts, etc.) 375390
Medium sized fish (trout, etc.) . 390
Fishballs 375 390
Clams 390
Crabs 360
Oysters 375390
Scallops 360
Cooking Period
Total, mins. 2 5
Total, mins. 2 3
46
23
25
25
25
12
35
25
2
_ Temperature of Fat
Meat and Poultry Degrees Fahrenheit Cooking Period
Chicken 375390 Total, mins. 57
Chops or cutlets, breaded 375 400 " " 5 8
Timbale Cases 390 " " 11 y 2
Vegetables
French fried potatoes, onions,
etc 395 " " 4 6
TABLE V
EGGS
BOILED
Temperature of Water
Degrees Fahrenheit Cooking Period
Soft 212 Total, mins. 2 4
Hard 212 " 2030
CODDLED
Soft 180 200 Total, mins, 6 10
Hard 180200 30 45
BAKED
Temperature of Oven
Degrees Fahrenheit
Soft 250350 Total, mins. 610
Hard ..250360 " " 25 40
TABLE VI
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES
BOILED
Fruits Cooking Period Fruits Cooking Period
Apples, cut Mins. 5 8 Prunes, dried
whole 1525 (soaked 1 to 6
dried Hrs. 1 4 hours) Mins. 10
Apricots, dried . . . Hrs. l / 4 2 Pears, summer Mins. 10 20
Berries and small winter 60
fruits Mins. 10 15 Pineapple 20
Cranberries 10 Plums 12
Figs, dried " 20 Quince " 15 40
Peaches " 12 Rhubarb ... " 5
'USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD
II
Vegetables
Artichokes,
French Mins. 30 40
Jerusalem 15 40
Asparagus 15 30
Beans, shell or
string 1535
Lima, green . . 15 35
Navy and
other dried. . . Hrs. 3 4
Beet greens Mins. 1 5 30
Beets, young 3050
old Hrs. 24
Broccoli Mins. 15 25
Brussels sprouts . .
Cabbage
Carrots, young. .
old
Cauliflower ....
Celery
Corn
Cucumber
Dandelion greens
Dasheen
Eggplant
Kohlrabi .
Cooking Period Vegetables Cooking Period
Leeks Mins. 1535
Lentils, dried . . . Hrs. 3 4
Lettuce Mins. 5 1 !5
Okra " 20 40
Macaroni, spa-
ghetti, etc. . . ., w 2535
Onions, young
(scallions) " 815
old 2040
Parsnips " 20 40
Peas, green " 10 30
dried Hrs. 34
Potatoes,
white. . . Mins. 20 45
1520
520
1525
2035
1530
1530
7 12
520
2035
1535
1520
2545
sweet 25 3O
Pumpkin (cut) . . " 30 4O
Rice " 2030
Spinach 5 10
Salsify " 2045
Squash, summer. 10 20
winter " 20 30
Tomatoes " 515
Turnips " 15 40
PERIODS REQUIRED FOR WATERLESS COOKERY OF VEGETABLES
The time required for waterless cookery varies somewhat with the
age of the vegetable and the size of the pieces into which it is cut.
It is generally safe to allow the maximum period given in the preced-
ing tables, if the vegetables are young. For old, fully matured vege-
tables, increase the time from ten to twenty minutes.
BAKED
Temperature of Oven
Degrees Fahrenheit
350375
Bananas 400 450
Pears 350375
Rhubarb . .350 375
Fruits
Apples
Baking Period
Mins. 20 40
" 1520
" 4560
" 20
12
BAKED
Temperature of Oven
Vegetables Degrees Fahrenheit Baking Period
Beans, with pork 250 350 Hrs. 6 8
Cauliflower 375 400 Mins. 30
Eggplant (stuffed) 350375 " 30
Mushrooms 400 450 " 15
Onions, whole (stuffed) 400 450 " 60
sliced 400 450 " 30
Peppers (stuffed) 350375 30
Potatoes, sweet, in skins 400 450 30 40
white, in skins, large 450 500 45 60
small to medium 450 500 30 45
scalloped 350400 Hrs. 1 l J / 2
TABLE VII
CANDY AND FROSTING
Stages in Sugar Cooking
Sirup stage - 220^230
Thread stage 230234
Soft ball stage 234 240
Medium ball stage 240 244
Stiff ball stage 244 250
Hard ball stage 250 264
Light crack stage 264 272
Medium crack stage 272 290
Hard crack stage 290 320
Caramel stage 320 360
CANDIES
Fondant (soft ball stage) 238 240
Fudge and Marshmallow (thread to soft ball stage) .... 230 238
Caramels and Nougat (stiff ball stage) 246 250
Molasses taffy and soft candies to be pulled (hard ball
stage) 245260
Hard candies to be pulled (medium crack stage) 272 290
Toffee and butterscotch (medium to hard crack stage) . . 280 300
Clear brittle candies (hard crack stage) 290 310
BOILED FROSTING
1 egg-white to 1 cup sugar (soft to medium ball stage) 238 242
2 egg-whites to 1 cup sugar (stiff ball stage) 244 248
3 egg-whites to 1 cup sugar (hard ball stage) 254 260
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 13
MEASUREMENTS
LEARN TO MEASURE ACCURATELY All the measurements in
this book, and in most modern cook-books and magazines, are
level. It will not do to use a heaping teaspoon, tablespoon or
cup when a level one is meant. To change proportions by
wrong measuring causes poor results, for example:
Too much flour will make a cake dry and crumbly, bread
solid and heavy, sauces thick and pasty.
Too much fat will make cakes oily and may cause them to
fall; it will make grease-soaked doughnuts and greasy gravies
and sauces.
Too much sugar will make a cake with a hard crust, or a
sticky cake; it makes a soft, sticky jelly.
Too much liquid will make a cake that falls easily.
Too much soda gives a disagreeable taste and bad color to
breads and cakes.
HAVE ACCURATE EQUIPMENT FOR MEASURING, as follows:
A measuring-cup holding one-fourth quart and divided by
ridges on one side into thirds and on the other side into fourths.
A quart measure divided by ridges into fourths. Each fourth
is a cupful.
A standard tablespoon that holds one-sixteenth of a cup.
A standard teaspoon that holds one-third of a tablespoon.
A tested scale.
To MEASURE DRY MATERIAL Fill the cup, spoon or other
measure to overflowing, then pass a spatula or the straight edge
of a knife over the top, leveling the material. For an accurate
half-teaspoon or tablespoon of dry material, fill spoon as above,
then, owing to the difference in capacity of the tip and bowl
of the spoon, divide the material in half lengthwise.
To MEASURE FAT An easy and accurate way to measure
solid fat is by means of water. For instance, to measure % eup
of solid shortening, fill a standard measuring cup % full of cold
water, then drop in pieces of the shortening, pushing them
under the water until the water level reaches the one-cupful
mark. If l /z cup shortening is called for in the recipe, fill the
cup one-half full of water, and so on for any quantity desired.
14
/-
Another accurate method especially recommended for small
quantities, is to pack the shortening into a standard measur-
ing spoon and level off evenly with the straight edge of a
knife.
To MEASURE LIQUIDS Fill the measure with all it will hold.
Equivalent Measures and Weights
3 teaspoons ....
1 tablespoon
4 cups . .
. . 1 quart
4 tablespoons . .
1 A cup
2 pints . .
. . 1 quart
16 tablespoons . .
l /2 CUD .
1 cup
1 gill
4 quarts .
8 quarts
. . 1 gallon
1 peck
4 rills .
1 pint
4 pecks
1 bushel
2 cups
1 pint
1 6 ounces
1 pound
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT STARCH
Some of the foods which are used most frequently are rich
in starch; for instance:
FLOUR White, whole wheat, graham, buckwheat, rice, corn,
rye, barley.
VEGETABLES Potatoes,- sweet potatoes.
LEGUMES Dried peas, dried beans, lentils.
BREAKFAST FOODS Wheat, oat, corn-meal, rice, barley.
MISCELLANEOUS Chocolate, cocoa, macaroni, vermicelli,
spaghetti, corn-starch, tapioca, sago, chestnuts.
STARCH-RICH FOODS MUST BE COOKED THOROUGHLY if they
are to have fine flavor and be easily digested. This is because
starch occurs in foods in the form of tiny, hard, dry grains
which are not soluble in cold water and which are difficult for
the digestive juices to act upon. When starch is cooked, it is
easy to digest and much improved in flavor^ because cooking
changes the form of the starch.
WHEN STARCH is COOKED IN LIQUID, the heat causes the
starch grain to absorb liquid, swell and soften. When flour or
corn-starch or any other finely divided meal is cooked in a
liquid, it thickens the liquid.
WHEN STARCH is COOKED BY DRY HEAT, that is, with very
'USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 15
little moisture, the heat, unless it is great enough to burn the
starch, breaks down the starch grain and changes the starch to
a substance called dextrin. Dextrin does not thicken liquid,
but, like starch cooked in water, it has a better flavor and is
easier to digest than raw starch.
The baking of a loaf of bread illustrates both these changes.
The starch in the dough in the inside of the loaf absorbs the
water used in making the dough and swells and softens. The
water in the dough on the outside of the loaf evaporates and
the starch in the outer layers of dough is partly changed to
dextrin. As a result, the crust has mpre flavor and is sweeter
than the crumb, and has a different texture.
In baking a potato, the water for cooking the starch is sup-
plied by the potato itself.
Points to be Observed in Cooking Starch-rich Foods
1. Use enough water to soften all the starch present. This
is especially important in cooking breakfast foods.
2. Cook them for a long enough time to swell and soften the
starch. A temperature as high as the boiling-point of water,
212 F., is best for this cooking.
3. When flour or finely ground meal is to be mixed with a
hot liquid, separate the particles before they reach the hot liquid,
or gummy lumps with raw centers will be formed. This separa-
tion of the particles of flour or meal can be accomplished by
mixing the flour or meal with enough cold liquid to make a
mixture as thin as cream, or by combining them with sugar
or with fat before mixing them with the hot liquid. Lumpy
gravies, sauces, mushes and puddings are caused by a failure
to observe these precautions.
4. A double boiler is the best utensil to use in cooking cereals,
mushes and starchy sauces because it does away with the danger
of sticking and burning. The water in the lower part of the
boiler should be boiling.
Thickening Power of Flour or Corn-starch
This is one of the most important things for a good cook to
know. If the cook can tell how much flour or corn-starch to
use to make sauces or pastes of any desired thickness, and knows
how to mix and cook these sauces and pastes to make them
16
smooth, velvety and fine in flavor, he or she has learned one of
the hardest cooking lessons and is in possession of information
that will help in making a great variety of dishes.
WITH EACH CUP OF LIQUID:
l /z tablespoon flour or (
l /z teaspoon corn-starch (
1 tablespoon flour or
1 teaspoon corn-starch )
2 tablespoons flour or
2 teaspoons corn-starch
3 tablespoons flour or
1 tablespoon corn-starch
4 tablespoons flour or
4 teaspoons corn-starch
Makes a very thin sauce, which may
be used in making thin cream soups.
Makes a thin sauce, which may be
used in making cream soups of aver-
age* thickness.
Makes a medium sauce, which may be
used for creamed meats or vegetables,
scalloped dishes, gravies or other
sauces where a medium thickness is
desired. It has about the thickness
of heavy cream.
Makes a thick sauce, which may be
used for creamed meats or vegetables,
scalloped dishes, gravies or sauces
where a thick sauce is desired. A
sauce containing this amount of flour
has considerable body and spreads
rather than runs.
Makes a paste wnen coia. ims
sauce may be used in making mixtures
ai--f-oc o/vn-flrloo r>lir/"* rvi*ltno^C
paste when cold. This
sauce may be used in making mixtures
for croquettes, souffles, blanc manges
and similar puddings.
WHEN THE LIQUID USED is MILK, use a little more milk or a
little less starch than for a water sauce, because milk already
contains about 12 per cent, solids.
WHEN THE LIQUID USED is ACID, as vinegar, a fruit- juice or
tomatoes, the hot acid acts on the starch and gradually changes
it, just as dry heat does, to dextrin. Dextrin has not the
thickening power of starch. Therefore, when an acid liquid
is to be thickened, more of the thickening agent may be needed,
and the time for cooking may be shortened. No statement can
be made as to exact differences because acids differ greatly in
strength.
WHEN THE FLOUR is BROWNED, the dry heat changes part
of the starch to dextrin and the flour may lose a considerable
part of its thickening power. Either more browned flour must
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 17
be used than uncooked flour or browned flour may be used
for color and uncooked flour for thickening.
CORN-STARCH REQUIRES LONGER COOKING THAN FLOUR,
and a quickly cooked corn-starch mixture always has a raw
taste.
IF A SAUCE is Too THICK, it can be thinned without trouble
by adding more liquid.
IF A SAUCE is Too THIN, it must be thickened by adding
more of the thickening agent and by recooking it. A starchy
sauce or a cream soup is always thinner when hot than when
cold. Even the amount of cooling which occurs in transferring
a starchy sauce, gravy or soup from the cooking utensil to the
serving dish perceptibly thickens it. This must be taken into
account in making creamed dishes of various kinds.
IF A SAUCE is LUMPY, because proper precautions have not
been taken in mixing and cooking the thickening agent with
the liquid, the sauce should be strained; but such a sauce never
has the creamy, smooth texture of a well-made one.
Methods of Combining Flour or Corn-starch
with Liquids
WHEN LITTLE OR No FAT is USED Heat three -fourths of
the liquid. Stir the remainder of the liquid gradually into the
thickening agent. If sugar is used it may be mixed with the
thickening agent before the liquid is stirred in or added to the
sauce after the thickening is completed. Stir into the thicken-
ing agent at first only enough of the cold liquid to make a
thick batter. Beat this batter until smooth and free from
lumps, then add the rest of the cold liquid. The mixture should
be about as thick as medium cream. Beat this gradually into
the hot liquid and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture
is thickened. If fat is used, it may be added at this time. After
thickening, the sauce may bs cooked in a covered double boiler
with occasional stirring.
AMOUNT OF FAT EQUALS OR EXCEEDS AMOUNT OF
THICKENING AGENT Melt the fat, add the flour or corn-starch
and cook, stirring constantly, until thoroughly blended. This
is called a roux. Stir in the liquid, a little at first, then imme-
diately enough to thin the roux perceptibly and finally the re-
mainder. Cook, stirring constantly, until thick. Complete
cooking in a double boiler, stirring occasionally.
Or
Heat the liquid; cream together the fat and thickening agent;
add this modification of roux to the hot liquid and stir con-
stantly while the fat melts and die particles of flour or corn-
starch are being spread through the liquid and cooked. Com-
plete cooking in a double boiler, stirring occasionally.
Dishes That Have a Sauce Foundation
A variety of dishes can be made by a person who is familiar
with the thickening power of flour and corn-starch and with
methods of combining them into sauces. There are two founda-
tion sauces:
A WHITE SAUCE is one made from milk or white stock or
part of each, thickened with plain flour or corn-starch.
A BROWN SAUCE is one made from milk or water or brown
stock and thickened with browned flour or part browned and
part plain flour or corn-starch.
The following typical dishes have a sauce foundation:
CHEESE SAUCE To each cup white sauce of desired consist-
ency, add }4 CU P shaved, grated or crumbled cheese and stir
until cheese is melted.
CREAM SOUPS, PUREES AND BISQUES To each cup of very
thin or thin white sauce, add 2 cups of vegetable, meat or fish
pulp.
CREAMED DISHES To each cup of medium or medium to
thick white sauce, add 1 to \ l /z cups vegetables, meat, fish or
hard-cooked eggs cut in pieces.
SCALLOPED DISHES To each cup of medium to thick white
sauce, add 1 to 2 cups cooked vegetables, meat, fish, hard-cooked
eggs, cooked macaroni or rice; put into a baking dish, sprinkle
with buttered crumbs and bake until brown.
CROQUETTE MIXTURES The foundation of most croquettes
is white sauce or brown sauce. When this type of croquette
is made, to each cup of very thick sauce use 1 to 2 cups of finely
divided cooked meat, fish, hard-cooked eggs or vegetables.
When the mixture is cold, it will easily shape into croquettes.
SOUFFLE MIXTURES Many souffles are made from a founda-
tion of thick or very thick white sauce to which is added some
seasoning or flavor such as cheese, vanilla, sugar, or some chopped
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 19
food and raw egg-yolk. Beaten egg-white is folded in and the
mixture is ready to pour into a baking-dish. All souffles are
baked with the containing dish standing in hot water. With
a knowledge of white sauce and egg cookery, souffles are very
simple to make. No attempt is being made to give at this point
complete directions for making souffles, but only to show how a
knowledge of one part of cooking will help in the making of
many dishes and will make the whole problem of cooking
simpler and more interesting. The most common souffles hav-
ing a white sauce foundation are:
CHEESE SOUFFLE To each cup of thick to very thick white
sauce, add % cup grated cheese, 2 egg-yolks and seasoning.
Cook until the cheese is melted. Then fold in the beaten egg-
whites, and the souffle is ready to bake.
MEAT OR FISH SOUFFLE To each cup thick to very thick
white sauce add 1 cup minced meat or vegetable, 3 egg-yolks,
and the beaten whites of 3 eggs and bake for thirty minutes at
375 F.
CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE To each cup thick white sauce, add
2 ounces grated chocolate, J/j cup sugar, and 3 egg-yolks; cook
until the chocolate is melted. Fold in the beaten whites of 3
eggs and bake for thirty minutes at 375 F.
VANILLA SOUFFLE To each cup very thick white sauce,
add % cup sugar, l / 2 teaspoon vanilla, 2 to 3 egg-yolks. Fold
in beaten whites of 2 to 3 eggs and bake for thirty minutes at
375 F.
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT SUGAR
Sugars are useful in cooking (1) because of their flavor, or
the effect they have in modifying or intensifying other flavors;
(2) because of their texture, or the changes they make in the
texture of other foods; (3) because they help in preserving
other foods, especially fruits.
Use of Sugar in Flavoring Foods
SUGARS NOT EQUALLY SWEET Maple sugar, brown sugar
and molasses, weight for weight with white sugar, are a little
less sweet than white sugar. Corn sirup or glucose, weight for
weight with white sugar, is only about three-fifths as sweet as
white sugar and may be used to reduce the sweetness of white
sugar. Many persons prefer this modified sweetness.
20
s*
FOODS TASTE SWEETER HOT THAN COLD This accounts
for differences in the amounts of sugar used in making frozen
desserts and other desserts.
SOME SUGARS CONTAIN SPECIAL FLAVORS, for example:
maple sugar, brown sugar, molasses, honey.
SUGAR BRINGS OUT OR MODIFIES NATURAL FLAVORS It
makes bitter chocolate and fruit acids more mellow and agree-
able in flavor. It brings out flavor in bland foods like cereals*
breads, milk and some mild-flavored vegetables.
in Which Sugar Affects Texture of Foods
IN CAKES$ used in right proportions, sugar helps to make
them tender and light. Too much sugar makes cake tough
and heavy.
IN BREADS, used in right proportions^ sugar helps to make
them light. Too much sugar makes bread coarse in texture.
WITH FRUIT JUICES, used in right proportions, makes fruit-
juice jelly. Too much sugar makes jelly "wine off" and makes
it soft and sticky in texture. Too little sugar necessitates over-
cooking, impairs flavor and gives a tough texture.
IN BEATEN EGG WHITE, sugar helps the egg to hold air and
remain stiff. Too much sugar makes the egg white flatten out
and settle.
Approximate Amounts of Sugar for Various
Common Dishes
ICE CREAMS 2 to 4 tablespoons to 1 cup mixture.
CUSTARDS (not frozen) 1 to 2 tablespoons to 1 cup milk.
CAKES One-half as much sugar as flour. In chocolate cakes, three-
quarters as much sugar as flour.
MERINGUES 1 to 5 tablespoons to 1 egg white.
FROSTINGS 1 to 3 cups to 1 egg white.
BREADS 1 tablespoon or less to 1 cup flour, if any is used.
MUFFINS 2 tablespoons or less to 1 cup flour, if any is used.
CARAMEL
1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup boiling water
Put the sugar into a pan and melt slowly over direct heat.
Cook until dark brown, being careful not to scorch. Add the
hot water and cook slowly until a thick sirup is formed. (Be
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 21
sure that the water is hot. Cold water will make the hot sugar
spatter.) This will keep indefinitely in a covered glass fruit
jar and is a popular flavoring for desserts, soups, meat sauces
and confectionery.
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FATS
The cooking and table fats available for use in the modern
household range from liquid oils to hard fats. The source may
be vegetable, meat, milk or a combination of these.
Cooking and Table Fats Classified as to Sources
Oils Solid Fats
(Vegetable Product) (Milk Product)
Olive oil Butter
Cotton seed oil (Animal Product)
Corn oil L arc }
Other salad combinations Drippings as from bacon, suet,
(Milk Product) chicken > beef > etc '
Cream (Vegetable Product)
Vegetable shortening compounds
(Animal Meat and Vegetable Product)
Oleo margarine
Nut margarine
Cooking and Table Fats Classified as to Use
Fats are often classified as to their use: (1) for table use (2)
for shortening, and (3) for frying. Many of them belong
to two or all of these groups, while others are limited to one.
OILS Oils are both salad and cooking fats. As salad oils
they are chosen for their flavor and smoothness in salad dress-
ings. Those made of cotton seed, corn and peanut oil alone
or in combination with olive oils are less expensive than pure
olive oil. From the labels, the purchaser will know just which
type she is buying.
Oils for shortening are becoming increasingly popular because
of their convenience. They are easily measured; they do not
need to be creamed or melted.
For frying, particularly deep fat frying, cotton seed and corn
oils are practical and inexpensive. They do not smoke and burn
22
rs^->_/-
easily and, properly cared for, they can be used over and over
again.
SOLID SHORTENINGS AND COOKING FATS Lard and meat
drippings for shortening and cooking date from the time when
all fats were prepared in the home.
Lard is solid without being hard to handle in doughs, and has
an established reputation for pastry.
Fat from chickens and other poultry is highly prized for cake
making.
Bacon, ham and sausage fats are too highly seasoned for any
but limited use but are excellent for sauteing any food where
their seasoning is desirable.
Drippings are not possible for deep fat frying, because they
burn so easily; unless they are clarified and combined, when they
become a good mixed fat. They may be used for saut&ng or in
seasoning.
In the solid vegetable compounds, vegetable oils cottonseed,
corn, and sometimes peanut are solidified by a special process.
This gives certain characteristics of both the original oil and.
the solid fat, i.e.: they do not smoke or burn except at a high,
temperature. This makes them desirable for deep fat frying.
They do not easily melt which makes pastry making easy in ordi-
nary temperatures.
BUTTER Probably butter will never lose its place as the
favorite for eating. Its texture and flavor are particularly
satisfactory* For certain types of cooking also, it is desirable,
notably in sauces, and in some baking where its flavor becomes
a part of the flavor of the dish.
MARGARINES The nut and oleo margarines are less expen-
sive than butter but are nicely flavored and salted for table use.
They should not be considered a substitute but rather another
product suitable for the same use as butter. In the manufact-
ure of these products, liquid fat, either of animal or vegetable
source, is churned with milk. The oil may be principally olein
from meat source, giving the name oleo margarine; or it may
be derived from peanuts, coconut or other nuts, making a true
vegetable margarine. They are purchased uncolored to dis-
tinguish them from butter, but they may be easily colored at
home for table use.
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 23
Shortening
The term shortening includes fat of any kind that is used
in pastry, doughs, and batters. Any clean, sweet fat may be
used. The best known and most commonly used are butter,
solid vegetable fats, margarine, salad and cooking oil, lard and
drippings* In general they may be used interchangeably for
"shortening" in a recipe, remembering the difference in flavor,
and that since some contain more water than others more fat
is needed to give the same shortening quality.
How to Try Out or Render Fat
Every bit of fat from scraps of meat, bacon drippings, roasts,
soups and poultry may be made into a mixture useful for gen-
eral cooking purposes. The scraps should be "tried out" to-
gether. The proportion of soft fats to hard fats will usually be
enough to make of the whole a good medium fat.
Chop the fat into fine pieces or run it through a meat-
grinder. For each pound of fat allow one-half cup of milk.
Cook in the top of a double boiler, or in a kettle set over water,
until the fat is melted. Strain through several thicknesses of
cheesecloth laid over a strainer.
Fat may be tried out in exactly the same way without the
use of the milk, but milk improves the flavor and texture of
the product. Sweet, sour or buttermilk may be used.
If the crisp cracklings left after straining are of good flavor
and color they may be substituted for other fats in various
dishes, notably in corn-meal and graham-flour mixtures, hashed
brown potatoes, corn -meal mush that is to be fried, and any
kind of baked hash.
How to Clarify Fat
If fat that has been tried out from scraps and drippings needs
to be clarified, let it harden, remove it from the container,
scrape away and discard any sediment that has settled in the
bottom of the cake and melt it by pouring boiling water over
it. Boil this mixture thoroughly, strain through several thick-
nesses of cheesecloth placed over a strainer, and set away to cool.
When the fat is cold, remove the solid cake from the liquid.
Discard the impurities in the bottom of the cake. If this
24
N>^^
process is repeated two or three times, a cake of clean fat may be
obtained.
If fat acquires, through use, a slightly burned or disagree-
able flavor, melt it and for each pound or pint add a medium-
sized potato cut in quarter-inch slices. Heat gradually. When
the fat ceases to bubble and the potatoes are well browned,
strain the fat through several thicknesses of cheesecloth placed
over a strainer, and set away to cool. When ready to use,
scrape away and discard sediment from bottom of cake. Po-
tato helps to clarify fat as well as to purify it, for the potato
is porous and gathers into its pores much of the sediment in
the used fat.
How to Care for Fats
Since the four factors that are instrumental in making fat
rancid are light, moisture, air and warmth, all fats should be
kept in a dark, dry, cool place and as far as possible away from
air.
Oils, particularly, are affected by air. If oil is bought in
quantity and used a little at a time, it should be transferred
from the large container to small ones. Each container should
be filled completely full to exclude air, and should be sealed or
stoppered. The containers should be kept in a dry, cool place,
but not so cold that the contents will congeal. The top shelf
of the refrigerator is usually satisfactory.
Deep Fat Frying
Fats for deep fat frying, should be capable of being heated
to a high temperature without smoking or burning. Smoking
impairs the flavor, the digestibility and the durability of fat.
A fat should be capable of being used over and over again, but
everytime the fat is used the smoking temperature will become
lower, because of the amount of crumbs or other foreign matter
which escapes from the food into the fat, unless the fat is always
strained carefully after frying and clarified frequently.
VEGETABLE FATS AND OILS are used increasingly for frying.
They have high smoking temperatures. They can be used over
and over again and are not likely to burn. They absorb prac-
tically no odor from the food so can be used for all sorts of
foods. They are, perhaps, the best all around fats for general
use in frying. See photographs opposite.
*M* ^
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IHEN THE THERMOMETER
LYS THE TIM! HAS COME,
)WER THE F00D CAREFULLY
ND STAND BY
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IAIN AT ONCi AND TURN
ITO AN UNCLAZED PAPER
BANANA FRIT-
TERS CAN BE
DONE IN A
SHALLOW PAN
I
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WHEN FINISHED, THE FAT
(CLARIFIED, STRAINED At
STORED TO BE USED ACA
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD
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OLIVE OIL has a comparatively low smoking temperature.
This is partly compensated for, however, by the fact that it
produces smoke slowly and the smoke is non-irritating. It has
more decided flavor than the other vegetable oils.
LARD must be used with great care to avoid overheating, and
must be well clarified after each time of using. It has a rather
low smoking temperature, smokes rapidly and produces an
irritating smoke. Like all animal fats, it absorbs strong odors
from foods.
Utensils for Frying
1. A deep iron bowl or scotch kettle. The bowl has one
advantage over the flat-bottomed kettle; the sediment from
food sinks into the curve of the bowl and does not adhere to
food.
2. A wire basket that fits loosely into the kettle. This is to
lift food into and out of the kettle. A skimmer will do this
but it is not so convenient.
3. A long-handled spoon or fork to hold the basket out of
the fat while the food is draining.
4. A pan large enough to hold the basket while it is being
emptied or filled.
5. A large pan lined with soft paper on which to drain the
food that has been fried.
6. A thermometer for testing the temperature of the fat.
Directions for Frying
1. Put enough fat into the kettle to submerge to a depth
of one or two inches the articles to be fried. Do not fill
kettle more than three-fourths full of fat. The fat in an
over-full kettle may bubble over and catch fire.
2. Heat fat gradually to the desired temperature, which will
be between 300 and 400 Fahrenheit, always, if possible, below
the smoking point of the fat.
3. Put only moderate amounts of food into the fat 1 at one
time, because (a) when the very hot fat cooks the food it
causes the moisture in the food to boil and this vigorous bub-
bling may cause the fat to bubble over the edge of the kettle,
with risk of fire; and (b) too much food may so cool the fat
as to delay the cooking and increase absorption of fat thus
making a greasy product.
26
J-
4. When the food is cooked to the desired brown color, re-
move at once, drain over the kettle for a few seconds, then
place on soft paper to finish draining.
5. After frying is completed, let fat cool until it is safe to
handle, then strain through several thicknesses of cheesecloth
placed over a strainer. Clarify it frequently, after each time
of using, if possible, as it will lengthen the lifetime of the fat.
If fat used in frying is not overheated, and if it is frequently
clarified, it may be used over and over again, even if the smok-
ing temperature is comparatively low.
If fish is well egged and crumbed before being fried, it will
not seriously flavor the fat in which it is fried and the fat is
then useful for frying foods other than fish.
Testing Fat for Frying
Fats should never be brought to the smoking point as a test
of heat. Use a thermometer or drop into the fat a one-inch
cube of bread from the soft part of the loaf. Judge the heat
of the fat by the length of time it takes the bread to brown.
1. If the fat is the right temperature for large pieces of raw
food breaded chops, etc., (350-375 F.) it will take from
1 to 1 54 minutes, for bread to brown.
2. If the fat is the right temperature for smaller pieces of
raw food or raw batters and doughs (360-390 F.) the piece
of bread will brown in 50 to 60 seconds.
3 . If the fat is the right temperature for most cooked foods
croquettes, fish balls, etc., (375 to 390 F.) the bread will
brown in 40 to 50 seconds.
HAVE THE RIGHT TEMPERATURE IN FRYING If fat is too
hot, it scorches the food, or does not cook it through, or spoils
the fat. If it is too cool, the food becomes soaked with fat. Fats
of low smoking temperature will naturally soak into food a
little more than fats of high smoking temperature, because the
food must remain longer in the fat.
Egging and Crumbing Foods for Frying
Except in the case of foods like doughnuts, fritters, potatoes
and fried breads, foods are ordinarily either egged and crumbed
or dipped in an egg batter before being fried. This is because
the egg or egg batter hardens in the hot fat, making a case
about the food which keeps it from becoming fat soaked.
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 27
For crumbing, use dried bread crumbs rolled and sifted or
soft crumbs forced through a strainer.
Break an egg into a shallow plate and beat it with a fork
only enough to mix the yolk and white and not enough to beat
air into it. Blend into the mixed egg two tablespoons water for
each egg.
Place some crumbs on a board. Roll the food to be fried in
the crumbs, covering all parts with crumbs.
Dip the crumb-covered food into the egg bath, being careful
to cover every part with egg.
Lift food from egg with broad-bladed knife and roll again
in crumbs.
Let stand a few moments to dry. The food is then ready
for frying. Foods may be egged and crumbed several hours
or even a day before being fried.
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT EGGS
Eggs Help to Bind Foods Together
EGGS BIND FATS AND LIQUIDS TOGETHER Fats and liquids
mixed together tend to separate very quickly. When egg is
added to this mixture, it is possible, under right conditions, to
secure a very intimate mixing of the fat and liquid. The best
known household illustration of this is the combination of oil,
vinegar and egg in mayonnaise dressing,- which produces mix-
ture that will keep for a long time. In the case of French dress-
ing, the oil and acid can often be held together for an hour
or longer if a small amount of egg-white is added.
EGGS HELP TO COMBINE INGREDIENTS IN BATTER AND
DOUGH Although many batter and dough mixtures, such as
cakes, muffins, pancakes,; and breads, may be and often are
made without egg, the use of egg materially improves them.
Egg brings about a very intimate mixing of fat and liquid not
only with each other but also with the other ingredients present.
This gives the product fineness of grain, particularly in mix-
tures containing fat, and increases its lightness of texture. Cake,
fancy yeast breads, such as zwieback, brioche, rusks and fancy
rolls, and quick breads, such as delicate muffins, owe a part of
their delicacy of texture to the presence of eggs in the mixture.
EGG INCREASES POWER OF BATTER OR DOUGH TO HOLD FAT
By causing a more intimate mixing of fat with other ingre-
28
^y\^-
clients, the egg in a batter and dough mixture will permit the
addition of more fat. If a cake is so rich that it has a tendency
to fall, the addition of another egg may cure the difficulty. If
it is not rich enough, yet falls when more fat is added, putting
in another egg permits the use of more fat. If richer muffins
are desired, the same rule holds good; eggs as well as fat may
need to be added if the product is to retain its lightness. In
fancy yeast breads such as zwieback, brioche, rusks and fancy
rolls, the large amount of fat present does not reduce the light-
ness of the mixture, in part at least because of the effects of the
egg present.
EGG INCREASES POWER OF BATTER OR DOUGH TO HOLD
LIQUID Egg causes the liquid to be distributed in smaller
particles throughout a batter and dough mixture. This makes
it possible for the mixture to hold more liquid, without inter-
fering with its lightness, than it could hold if the eggs were
absent. Therefore, a bread or cake dough made with egg can
be made softer than one in which egg is not used. This adds
to the delicacy of the product. The popover is the most in-
teresting illustration of a batter that is very light in spite of the
large amount of liquid present.
Eggs Help to Give Lightness and Looseness of Texture
This property is due to the presence in egg of a tenacious,
gluelike or viscous substance called albumin. Albumin has the
power of holding air beaten into it, or gases formed in the mix-
ture containing it, and of stretching as a result of this.
AIR-HOLDING POWER OF EGG REDUCED BY FAT Egg-yolk
is very rich in fat. This is the reason that egg-white is better
than the yolk for giving lightness and looseness of texture, and
accounts for the direction, familiar to every housekeeper, not
to permit any of the yolk to escape into the white when separat-
ing eggs, if the white is to be beaten stiff. In cakes in which
the air-holding quality of egg-white needs to be used to great-
est advantage, the egg-white is beaten alone and is folded lightly
into the mixture at the last minute, so that the fat in the mix-
ture may not reduce its viscosity.
AIR-HOLDING POWER OF EGG INCREASED BY SUGAR In
limited amounts sugar increases the tenacity or viscous properties
of egg. This fact is interestingly illustrated in cakes, where the
addition of sugar, within limits, increases the lightness of the
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 29
cake. When sugar is added to beaten egg-white, in limited
amounts, it increases the air-holding property of the egg, and
the meringue is lighter than the beaten egg alone. When the
sugar is added to unbeaten egg-white, in limited amounts, and
the two are beaten together, not only can the product be made
very light but a meringue made in this way holds the air for
a much longer time than when it is made by beating the egg
first.
Eggs Thicken Liquids, Making Custards
The value of eggs in custard making is due to the fact that
raw eggs are fluid and readily mix with water or milk. When
the mixture containing the egg is heated, the particles of egg
become solid and the liquid is thus thickened.
Proportion of Egg to Liquid in Custard Mixtures
1 cup liquid | Makes a nature t fat has sufficient body to bake
1 whole egg or / m sma u CU p S or f or a me dium thick soft custard.
2 egg-yolks
Makes a mixture that has sufficient body to bake in
,. .j j a large baking-dish and hold its form while in the
1 / cup , 1 ( dish ; or > when baked in sma11 CU P S to retain the
1/2 whole egg or form of the cup when tumed into another dish .
3 egg-yolks / Good foundation for ice-cream if less than one-
fourth to one-half its bulk of cream is to be used.
1 cup liquid *) Makes a mixture that has sufficient body, when
2 whole eggs or f baked . in a lar S e baking-dish, to hold the form of
1 whole eee I t ^ ie ^^ w hen turned into another dish. Good
and 2 egg-yolks \ foundation for frozen custard where no cream is
/ used. Good foundation for salad dressings.
Effects of Temperature on Eggs
The texture of eggs cooked alone or in custard mixtures is
directly affected by the temperatures at which they are cooked.
Cooked atl80to200 Fahrenheit (below the boiling-point
of water) ^ the egg-white is firm but delicate and very tender
and friable or easily broken apart. The egg-yolk is tender and
salve-like.
Cooked at 212 Fahrenheit (at the boiling-point of water),
the egg-white is firm, but somewhat tough. The egg-yolk is
mealy.
Cooked at 350 to 400 Fahrenheit (the temperature of fat
30
*\^N^-
hot enough for frying) , the egg-white is leathery where touched
by the fat, and the yolk is leathery where touched by the fat.
Why Custards Whey or Curdle
Custards usually whey or separate or curdle because they are
cooked at too high a temperature or too long a time. Milk that
is a little sour may cause curdling of a custard.
The best way to prevent wheying, separating or curdling is
to regulate the temperature and time of cooking all custards by
cooking them over or surrounded by water slightly below the
boiling-point, by removing them from the heat when they are
done, and by being sure that milk used in making them is en-
tirely sweet.
If a soft custard begins to whey, separate, or, as it is usually
called in this case, curdle, it should be removed immediately
from the heat. The pan containing it may be set into a pan
of cold water, and the custard may be beaten vigorously to
redistribute the particles of egg and milk solids.
PRECAUTIONS FOR CUSTARDS MADE WITH ACIDS If a soft
custard mixture is to be made with vinegar or acid juices, such
as lemon-juice or tomato-juice, the custard should be removed
from the heat the minute the mixture begins to thicken.
Hot acid coagulates egg and then very soon begins to digest it.
This process makes it thin instead of thick. If an acid custard
mixture has become thinned by cooking it for a minute too
long, it must be thickened by adding more egg or by thicken-
ing it with flour, following the directions for starchy sauces.
Custards made with acid require more egg than other custards
to secure the same degree of thickness.
DIRECTIONS FOR MIXING AND COOKING CUSTARDS
Scald the liquid. This saves time in making all custards.
Thoroughly mix eggs, seasoning (as salt)j and flavoring (as
sugar) by stirring but not by beating.
Gradually add hot liquid to egg mixture.
FOR FIRM CUSTARDS, pour custard mixture into baking-dish,
set baking-dish in pan of hot water and cook in slow oven
(300-350 F.) or in a steamer at 180 to 200 F. until firm,
keeping water in pan constantly below the boiling-point. The
custard is done when the blade of a knife run into the center
of the custard comes out clean.
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 31
FOR SOFT CUSTARDS, cook in top of double boiler, keeping
the water in the lower part constantly at 180 to 200 F. or just
below the boiling-point. Stir constantly until the mixture
stops frothing, coats the spoon, and has the thickness of cream.
Remove at once.
Always cook custard mixtures over hot water or sur-
rounded by hot water.
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT MILK
The value of milk in the daily meals is so great that every
effort should be made to extend its use in cooking.
WHOLE FRESH OR PASTEURIZED MILK need hardly be dis-
cussed since all homemakers are familiar with its use. VITAMIN
D MILK is a new form carrying an increased content of this
vitamin. It is desirable, however, to describe other forms of
milk which today play a prominent role in up-to-date kitchens.
EVAPORATED MILK is the most important of these. It is whole
milk concentrated to double richness by evaporating part of the
natural water content. No sugar is added. Evaporated milk has
all the nutritive value of whole milk. When irradiated it carries
an increased content of Vitamin D. It is an especially suitable
food for babies.
For cooking, where whole milk is called for, an equal amount
of water should be added to evaporated milk. In place of cream,
it is used undiluted. Because this milk is homogenized, reducing
the butterfat globules to tiniest particles, it produces excellent
results in making cream soups, sauces, and other dishes where a
fine, smooth consistency is desired.
DRY MILK made by evaporating all water leaves the milk
solids in powdered form with the food value of pasteurized milk.
CONDENSED MILK, which contains a large amount of added
sugar, is used for making some desserts.
SKIM MILK may be used in cooking, but the fact must be
remembered that the fat removed has carried with it important
vitamins which must be returned as butter and cream.
BUTTERMILK, produced when the fat is removed as butter, is
similarly deficient although valuable for its lactic acid.
SOUR MILK is often needed for the invalid, for cooking or
baking. It can be made from fresh milk by the addition of 2
tablespoons white vinegar or lemon juice to each pint of milk.
Allow to stand in a fairly warm place at room temperature for
one-half hour, then return to refrigerator. The same propor-
tions obtain for evaporated or irradiated evaporated milk after
it has been diluted one-half according to directions. In baking,
use one-half teaspoon soda for every cup of sour milk or cream.
FOR SOUR CREAM add one tablespoon white vinegar or
lemon juice to one cup cream or each cup evaporated or irradi-
ated evaporated milk as it comes from the can.
TO PASTEURIZE MILK
If there is any question about the cleanliness of fresh milk
to be used for drinking, it should be pasteurized or boiled.
Infants or small children should never be fed any milk about
which there is the slightest doubt.
FLASH PROCESS Put it into a covered container set over hot
water. Heat until the milk reaches a temperature of 160 to
165 F. Hold at this temperature for one-half to one minute.
Cool as quickly as possible and keep in a cold place.
HOLDING PROCESS Heat until milk reaches 140 to 150 F.
Hold at this temperature for about 30 minutes.
Pasteurized milk, if kept too long, is apt to putrefy instead
of becoming sour. If any pasteurized milk is left over and
there is danger of its spoiling before it can be used, it may be
mixed with a little sour milk and set in a warm place until
it all becomes sour. Sour milk may be kept for some days.
TO BOIL MILK
FLASH METHOD Put it into a shallow pan and cook quickly
over direct heat so that the milk is brought as rapidly as possible
to the boiling-point. Stir constantly to prevent scorching,
making the figure eight with the spoon, as this brings the spoon
the greatest number of times in contact with the part of the
kettle receiving the most heat.
When the milk has boiled up once, remove from the fire
and cool as rapidly as possible.
* THE MACHINE BEATS TIME
j AS WELL AS BATTER WHILE
* YOU SUPPLY THE BRAIN THAT
| MAKES THE CAKE
;''*
-. C *llf!
fwita
X
A LITTLE LEMON
DOES THE TRICK
WHEN YOU'RE WHIP-
PING MILK OR CREAM
INTO SHAPE
Irradiated Evaporated
Milk Institute
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 33
Milk boiled by this rapid method is believed to be less affected
in nutritive value than pasteurized milk.
Boiled milk, like pasteurized milk, spoils rather than sours.
TO WHIP CREAM
To whip easily cream must be thick. This requires that it
must contain not less than 20 per cent butter fat. Best results
are obtained when it contains 25 to 40 per cent butter fat.
Fresh cream does not whip well even when it contains more
than 20 per cent butter fat. This is because lactic acid is
produced as cream ages, and the acid thickens the cream. The
addition of one-half teaspoon commercial lactic acid to each
pint of cream will do the same thing that is accomplished by
twelve to twenty-four hours standing.
Warm cream will not whip well because warmth thins cream.
As cream is chilled, the fat congeals and the cream thickens.
Cream set on the ice for two hours will whip easily, if it is rich
enough and old enough. The best temperature for whipping
cream is between 35 and 50 Fahrenheit. Cream is doubled in
bulk after whipping.
TO WHIP EVAPORATED MILK
Milk, bowl and beater should be thoroughly chilled to about
40 F. If the milk fails to whip, it is not cold enough. Scalding
the milk prior to chilling causes it to whip a little more
readily and somewhat stiffer, but scalding is not absolutely
necessary. To scald the milk, cover the unopened cans with
cold water. Bring water to a boil and continue boiling for five
minutes.
Lemon juice can be added for even greater and "permanent"
stiffness, when the lemon flavor is suitable to the food with which
the whipped milk is to be combined. When lemon juice is used,
first whip the milk until stiff. Then add two tablespoons of
lemon juice for every cup of milk. Continue whipping long
enough to blend in the lemon juice.
Evaporated milk has only about one -fifth of the amount of
fat contained in whipping cream. Instead, it has a much greater
content of whole milk solids. For that reason it is an ideal
ingredient for a dessert which completes an already rich meal.
34
ALKALINE AND ACID-FORMING FOODS
Alkaline or Base-Forming Foods
Acid-Forming Foods
Olives
Berries
Bread, white and
Carrots
Broccoli
whole wheat
Turnips and tops
Brussels Sprouts
Barley
Beans, lima, kidney,
Buttermilk
Cheese, all but cream
navy, soy
Cabbage
Corn, fresh, canned
Beets
Cauliflower
and dried
Citron
Celery, Chard
Cornmeal
Dates
Cherries
Crackers
Potatoes
Chestnuts
Cranberries
Bananas
Chicory, Endive
Eggs, whole
Rutabagas
Cream
Fish, fresh
Cantaloupe
Cheese, cream
Fish, smoked
Sweet potatoes
Cucumbers
Lentils
Beans, pods, snap
Eggplant
Meats, fresh
Oranges or juice
Grapefruit
Meats, smoked
Radishes
Kohlrabi
Oatmeal
Tomatoes
Lettuce
Oysters
Lemons or juice
Milk
Peanuts
Pears
Molasses
Poultry
Watermelon
Parsnips
Prunes, Plums
Apples
Peaches, Figs
Rice
Almonds
Peas, fresh, canned
Walnuts
Apricots
and dried
Wheat, flour and
Asparagus
Pineapple
cereals
A KITCHEN COLLECTION TO GLADDEN THE HEART OF THE MOST ARDENT GADGETEER
\u
ft H \
HOW TO BUY FOOD
PHOUGHT should be given to the expenditure of the money
* allotted to food, as a balanced diet, so necessary to health,
depends on the wise apportionment of that allowance. The fol-
lowing rules apply to the average healthy family; they may be
modified by each housewife to meet her own special needs.
Milk
Spend as much for milk as is necessary to secure for each child
three-quarters of a quart to a quart of milk a day and for every
one else in the family from one-third to one-half quart of
milk a day. If you can not afford whole milk, buy skim milk
for the children. Cheese may replace a part of the milk for
adults if they prefer it. Two ounces of cheese may be substi-
tuted for about one-third of a quart of milk.
Fruits and Vegetables
It is desirable to include fruit twice a day. Use fresh fruits
in the height of their season. When they are cheapest, preserve
them for winter use. Dried fruits, such as prunes, apricots,
peaches and raisins, can always be bought in the markets and
are probably the most inexpensive of all fruits. Oranges are
particularly wholesome and should be used as often as possible
unless replaced by tomatoes.
Women and little children will eat about two average potatoes
and 54 lb. other vegetables daily. Adolescents and men at hard
work can eat two to three times that amount.
Cereals
Buy cereals in variety. Be sure to include a generous pro-
portion of cereals made from the whole grain. These contain
elements of nutrition that are lost when the outer coat is
removed, and also furnish part of the necessary roughage in the
diet. Such cereals are especially desirable when it is difficult to
use as great a quantity of vegetables and fruits as these rules call
for.
35
Fat
For each grown person, every day, buy at least one and one-
half ounces of fat (butter, cooking fat, cream, fat from meat,
etc.). For children buy at least one-half as much, unless the
chUd is getting a quart of whole milk daily; in that case 2 he is
getting a large part of his fat allowance in the milk.
Meat and Other Protein Food
Ordinarily, do not try to serve flesh foods (meat, fish, and
poultry) more than once a day. Milk, eggs, and cheese supply
a desirable quality of protein or muscle-building foods and
may be served instead of meat. The more milk one has, the
less meat he needs. Peas, beans and cereals can not replace the
high-quality protein found in meat, eggs, milk and cheese, but
they have great value in supplementing the animal proteins. If
they are used instead of meat, some milk, eggs or cheese should
be included in the meal. The weekly allowance of meat foods
need not be higher than one and three-quarters pounds for each
person in the family, in order to furnish appetizing meals. This
means an average daily portion of not more than a quarter of a
pound.
A child under four or five years of age is well off without
any meat at all. If he has an egg every day in addition to his
three-fourths of a quart or quart of milk allowance, he will get
adequate protein food.
A child four or five years old may have a little meat-food
in addition to his milk allowance. He should have no more
than a small serving (an ounce or less) each day of lean beef^
mutton, lamb, chicken, lean fish or oysters.
Sweets
Buy only moderate amounts of sugar, molasses, honey or
sirup.
How to Select Canned and Package Goods
If the average household is to be supplied with the vegetables
and fruits needed in the abundance recommended in this book,
some provision must be made to have a supply on hand during
the months when fresh products are not available. In some
HOW TO BUY FOOD 37
households, these will be stored, canned, or otherwise preserved
at home. In others, they must be purchased fresh from the
market or bought in preserved form from the dealer.
It would be a profitable thing for every housewife to learn
sizes in canned goods and demand certain standards. She should
keep a record of good and poor grades so that she may ask for
the quality she prefers. Canned goods that are used frequently
should be purchased in case lots, as a wholesale or reduced price
can be obtained in that way.
The canneries have the sizes of cans well standardized and the
housewife will find it to her advantage to know the common
sizes. The following list gives the size of the can by numbei
together with an approximate estimate of its contents:
Standard Sizes in Cans and What They Contain
No. l /4 cans sardines, potted meats such as deviled ham,
condensed milk contain 4 to 4J/2 oz.; approximately l /2 cup.
No. l /2 cans shrimp, lobster, salmon, pimiento, condensed
milk contain 7 l /2 to 8 oz.; approximately 1 cup.
No. 1 cans (short or small) tunafish, canned soup, milk,
boned meats such as chicken contain 10 to 13 oz.; approxi-
mately ! 3 /4 CUpS.
No. 1 cans (tall or square) salmon, asparagus tips contain
1 lb.; approximately 2 cups.
No. 2 cans vegetables such as peas, corn, beans and some
fruits, such as pineapple and berries contain 1 lb. 4 oz.;
approximately 2 l /z to 3 cups.
No. 2 Yz cans fruits such as pineapple, peaches, pears, plums,
berries; also many vegetables, such as beets, asparagus stalks in
square tins, spinach contain 1 lb. 14 oz. to 1 lb. 15 oz.;
approximately 5 l / 2 cups.
No. 3 cans tomatoes, beets, sauerkraut, pumpkin and fruits
contain 2 Ibs. to 2 Ibs. 1 oz.; approximately 4 cups.
No. 10 cans mince-meat, apple sauce, marmalades, jams^
pickles, sauerkraut, baked beans, corn on cob, in fact, nearly
all canned goods for large quantity use contain 6 Ibs. 8 oz. to
7 Ibs. and over for fruits and vegetables and 7 Ifes. 8 oz. to 8
tfes. 12 oz. for marmalades and jams. Approximately 3 1 /
quarts.
While the size of can is standardized, there is a variation in
weights of cans put up by different canneries. This difference
38
S^V^i
in weight is probably due to a more solid pack or a greater
density in sirup content in the heavier cans and, this being the
case, the housewife should know not only the number but also
the weight she can expect in a can of any given size.
WHEN YOU DO YOUR
KITCHEN SEE THAT
THINGS MOVE FROM
LEFT TO RIGHT TOWARD
THE DINING-ROOM DOOR
DINING B.OOM
POOR.
.SCALE. IN FEET
FOOD VALUES AND MEAL
PLANNING
' I "ODAY the modern woman carefully plans her meals. She
realizes that meals must appeal to the appetite and to the
eye, but what is more important, they must be properly bal-
anced to build healthy bodies, to stimulate vigor and energy,
and to build up resistance against the elements and disease. The
modern woman, in preparing a food budget, knows that bulky
foods are essential, but not any more or less than the powerful,
natural chemicals which we know today as vitamins. The
modern woman has learned to distinguish between vitamins and
calories. She knows that vitamins have to do with the chemical
properties of many kinds of food, supplying the resistance-
building and life-giving properties we shall discuss shortly at
greater length. Calories, on the other hand, are units of heat
formed during digestion of many foods and varying in a re-
markable degree with the kinds of food eaten. Fresh vegetables
and fruits provide little heat when digested and hence are said
to be "low in calories," while fats, starches and sugars produce a
high degree of heat and so are called "high calorie foods." When
more of these are eaten than can be used up as energy, the
remainder is deposited as fat. That is why we gain weight by
eating foods of high caloric content and lose when their amount
is reduced.
WHAT TO BUY TO BUILD HEALTHFUL MENUS
The food dollar will be used to advantage and serve all its
necessary purposes, if it is divided into five, spent and served as
follows:
ONE-FIFTH or more for whole milk, cream, cheese and cod-liver oil for growing
children. Plan to give each child 1 quart and each adult at least 1 pint of
milk in some form, per day.
ONE-FIFTH for vegetables and fruit, with emphasis on the green leaf and yellow
fruits and vegetables. Serve at least 1 cooked vegetable, besides potatoes,
and 1 fresh vegetable each day. Serve fresh fruit twice a day, with citrus
fruit at least once.
ONE-FIFTH or less for meats, fish and eggs, serving liver in some form at least
once a week.
ONE-FIFTH for breads and cereals, especially the whole grains.
ONE-FIFTH for fats, sugar and other groceries.
39
40
WHAT FOOD MATERIALS DO FOR THE BODY
The healthy body is built and maintained by:
Protein helps make flesh and blood
Calcium for bone, teeth, glands, nerve and muscle
Phosphorus for bones, teeth, glands, muscle and nerve
Iron with Copper and Manganese to help make blood
Iodine for the functioning of the thyroid gland
Fat heat, energy and padding for nerve and muscle
Sugars and Starches; supply heat and energy as well as fat necessary for
the proper functioning of the liver and the digestion of fat
Health can not be maintained nor the body function properly
without abundant supplies of Vitamins. They are:
Vitamin A promotes growth, increases resistance to infective
diseases and prevents certain eye diseases
Vitamin B promotes growth, stimulates appetite, protects nerve
and brain tissue and function
Vitamin C promotes growth, protects jawbone and teeth and the
walls of the blood vessels
Vitamin D promotes calcification of teeth and bones, hence
protects against rickets and its deformities
Vitamin E protects the growth and function of the reproductive
glands and organs
Vitamin F promotes growth and protects skin, hair and kidneys
Vitamin G promotes growth and normal nutrition and prevents pellagra
WHERE TO FIND THESE BUILDING AND
PROTECTING FOODS
Milk, eggs, cheese, all meat, poultry and game, all fish and sea
PROTEIN
/Mi
\foc
foods, peas, beans, corn, all nuts, all grains.
CALCIUM /Cheese, almonds, milk, green vegetables and tops, dried peas,
"^beans, figs and dates, all sea food, egg yolk, olives, pecans.
TCheese, cashew nuts, almonds, dried peas, beans, lentils, Lima
PHOSPHORUS 1 beans, all salt-water fish, liver, egg yolk, chocolate, unrefined
^grains, all meats and poultry, walnuts, peanuts, pecans.
["Liver (calf, chicken, lamb), oysters, green vegetables and tops,
IRON 4 egg yolk, dried peas, beans, lentils, Lima beans, raisins, currants,
^dates, prunes, avocados, almonds, fresh meats.
COPPER /Almonds, oysters, oatmeal, dried lentils, beans and peas, buckle*
MANGANESE \berries, dates, pecans, shrimp, turnip tops, whole wheat.
/Sea foods and salt-water fish are the best sources of iodine, also
\iodized salt and cod-liver oil.
f Butter, cheese, nuts, cream, fat meats, poultry and fish, margarine,
FATS J lard, fish canned in oil, cottonseed oil, corn oil, olive oil, cod-liver
toil, avocado, egg yolk, chocolate, olives.
f Sugar, molasses, honey, dried fruits, sweet chocolate, maple sugar
\and sirup, sorghum, jams, jellies, preserves, beets.
AND f Potato, sweet potato and yams, rice, corn, tapioca, cornstarch,
STARCHES 4 arrowroot, all dried peas and beans, lentils, all grairft, all flours,
L Jerusalem artichokes, winter squashes, pumpkin, okra, all nuts.
FOOD VALUES AND MEAL PLANNING
THE VITAMIN CONTENT
of
IMPORTANT FOODS
Food
Vitamin
A
Vitamin
B
Vitamin
C
Vitamin
G
Almonds
A
BB
GG
Apples
A
B to BB
cc
GG
Apricots
AA
cc
GG
Asparagus
A
cc
Avocado
AA
BBB
c
GG
Bacon
to A
B to BB
GG
Bananas
A to AA
B to BB
cc
GG
Barley whole . .
A
BB
G
Beans, dry or canned
A
BB
G
Beans, string
AA
BB
cc
GG
Beef
A
BB
toC
GG
Beef fat
AA
Beets 0" oots)
A
B
c
G
Beet leaves
AA
BB
GGG
Brains
A
BB
Brazil nuts
A
BB
GG
Bread, white, waterf
B
Bread, white, milkf
A
B
to C
G
Bread, whole wheat, waterf
A
BBB
G
Bread whole wheat, milky
AA
BBB
to C
GG
Broccoli
AAAA
BB
c
GGG
Butter*
AAA
Buttermilk ... .
A
BB
c
GGG
Cabbage, creen. raw .
AA
BB
ccc
GG
Cabbage head, cooked
A
BB
c
GG
Cantaloupe
AA
BB
ccc
GG
Carrots
AAA
BB
cc
GG
Cauliflower
A
BB
c
GG
Celery bleached stems
to A
BB
cc
Celery green leaves
AA
BB
Chard
AA
B to BB
Cheese whole milk*
AA to AAA
G
Cheese, cottage
A
G
Cherries
AA
B
cc
Chestnuts
B
G
Chinese cabbage
AA
BB
ccc
G
A
BB
GG
Cod-liver oiltt
AAA
Collards
AAA
BB
cc
GG
Corn yellow
AA
BB
G
Corn meal
A to AA
B
Corn oil
A
Cottonseed oil
Cranberry (or juice)
A
cc
* Supplies a small amount of Vitamin D
t When irradiated, an excellent source of Vitamin D
ft An excellent source of Vitamins A and D
Food
Vitamin
A
Vitamin
B
Vitamin
C
Vitamin
G
Cream
AAA
BB
c
GGG
Cress
AAA
BB
ccc
GG
Cucumber
to A
B
cc
G
Dandelion greens
AAA
BB
c
GG
Dasheens
A
B
c
Dates
A
BB
G
Eees
AAA
B to BB
GGG
So" ;*.
Egg white
._ -
GG
Effff volk*
AAA
BB
GGG
^66 /^ ia -
A
B
c
,GG
Cggpiui.
AA
c
AAA
c
GG
A
Cto
G
Filberts
BB
GG
Fish fat*
A
B
G
Fish, lean
to A
B
G
Grapefruit (or juice, fresh or canned)
Grapes
A
A
BB
B
ccc
C to
GG
G
Grape juice
B to
toG
Ham
to A
BB
GG
Heart
A
BB
c
GGG
Hickory nuts
BB
GG
Ice cream (regular)
AA
BB
c
GGG
Kale
AAA
B
cc
GGG
Kidney
AA
BB
c
GGG
Kohlrabi
B
c
Lemon juice
A
BB
ccc
GG
Lettuce
A to AA
BB
cc
GG
Limes (or juice)
cc
Liver
AA to AAA
BB
c
GGG
Mangoes
AAA
BB
ccc
GG
Milk wholef
AAA
BB
c
GGG
Milk "scalded"
AAA
BB
c
GGG
Milk condensedf
AAA
BB
c
GGG
Milk, evaporatedf
AAA
BB
GGG
Milk, dried, whole
AAA
BB
c
GGG
Milk dried skim
A
BB
c
GGG
Milk fresh skim
A
BB
c
GGG
Molasses . .
B
Mutton
to A
BB
= ...
GG
Oatmeal
to A
BB
G
Okra
AA
BB
,.
Onions raw
to A
B
cc
G
Onions cooked
to A
B
c
G
Orange (or juice)
A
BB
ccc
GG
Orange peel
A
B
cc
Oysters
AA
BB
c
GG
Parsley
AAA
BB
ccc
Parsnips
to A
BB
Peaches, raw
A to AA
BtoBB
cc
G to GG
Supplies a small amount of Vitamin D
t When irradiated, an excellent source of Vitamin D
FOOD VALUES AND MEAL PLANNING
43
Food
Vitamin
A
Vitamin
B
Vitamin
C
Vitamin
G
Peanuts. .
A
BB
G
Peanut butter
A
BB
G
Pears
BB
c
GG
Peas, green
AA
BB
ccc
GG
Peas, dry
A
BB
GG
Pecans
A
BB
Peppers, green
AA
BB
ccc
Pimientos
AAA
ccc
Pine nuts
A
B
Pineapple, raw
A
BB
cc
G
Pineapple, canned
A
BB
cc
G
Pork
to A
BB
GG
Potatoes, white
A
BB
cc
G
Prunes
AA
BB
GG
Pumpkin
Radish
AA
to A
B
BB
c
cc
G
Raisins
B
G
Raspberries
AA
B
ccc
Rhubarb
c
Rice, white
_ =
Rice, whole grain or brown
Roc, fish
A
AA
BB
BB
G
Romaine
AA
BB
GG
Rutabaga
to A
BB
ccc
Rye, whole
A
BB
G
Salmon, canned
A
__
GG
Sauerkraut
A
B
CtoCC
Shrimp
A
Spinach
AAA
B
cc
GG
Squash, Hubbard
AAA
B
G
Squash, summer
A
B
G
Strawberries .
A
B
ccc
Swede
BB
ccc
Sweetbreads .
A
B
Sweet potatoes
AAA
BB
cc
G
Tomato, raw or canned
AA
BB
ccc
G
Turnip
to A
B
cc
G
Turnip greens
AAA
BB
ccc
GG
Veal.
to A
B
GG
Walnuts
A
BB
Water cress
AAA
BB
ccc
GG
Watermelon
A
B
ccc
G
Wheat bran
A
BB
G
Wheat embryo
AA
BBB
__
GG
Wheat, whole
A
BB
G
Yeastf
BBB
;
GGG
Yeast bouillon f
BBB
GGG
t Whco irradiated, an excellent source of Vitamin D
44
THE NUMBER OF CALORIES
in
YOUR USUAL SERVINGS
FOOD CALORIES
Almonds, 12 ; 100
Almonds, chocolate, 5 100
Apple 34
Apple, baked, 2 teaspoons sugar 200
Apple, baked, 1 teaspoon sugar 150
Apple, brown Betty, J^ cup 250
Apple pie 300-350
Apple tapioca, J^ cup 205
Asparagus, 10 large stalks, no butter 50
Asparagus, 10 large stalks, with butter 150
Asparagus, 10 large stalks, with Hollandaise sauce 240
Avocado, ^ fruit 120-300
Bacon, broiled, four small slices 100
Banana, average size 100
Beans, dried 393
Lima beans, dried 398
Beans, string, J^ to 1 cup serving 22-44
Beef, round steak, lean, 4-ounce serving 170-220
Beet greens, }/ cup serving 22
Beets, red 50
Blackberries, fresh, ^ cup 100
Blackberries, cooked, with sugar, J^ cup 200
Blueberries, fresh, ^ cup 160
Bluefish, broiled, small serving 100
Brazil nuts, 2 100
Bread, white 70
Bread, Boston brown 52
Broccoli 45
Butter, 1 teaspoon 100
Butter, ordinary serving 50-100
Cabbage, cooked 32
Cabbage, raw, shredded, % cup 13
Cantaloupe, J^j 50
Carrots 30-40
Cauliflower 25
Celery 15
Cream of celery soup, per cup 200
Chard 36
Cheese, 1-inch cube 70
Cherries, 10 large ones 50
Chestnuts, 7 average 100
Chicken, roast, small slice 100
Chocolate cake 200
Chocolate cream candy, average piece 80-100
Chocolate cream mint, 1^-inch diameter 100
Chocolate drop cookie, 2-inch diameter 60
FOOD VALUES AND MEAL PLANNING
45
FOOD CALORIES
Chocolate eclair 260-400
Chocolate fudge, 1-inch cube 80-90
Chocolate malted milk, large glass 465
Coleslaw, 3^ cup 50
Corn bread, average piece 120
Corn flakes, % cup 100
Crackers, graham 100
Crackers, soda 85
Cream, heavy, per teaspoon 60
Cream, whipped, per teaspoon 35
Cream, thin, per teaspoon 30
Cucumbers
Currants, dry, 34 cup 182
Cup custard, ^ cup 150
Dates, 3 or 4 100
Doughnut 200
Duck, small helping 120
Egg 70-75
Eggnog, 1 cup 200
Farina, cooked, % cup 100
Fig, average, dry 100
Filberts, 8 to 10 100
French dressing, 1 teaspoon 67
Grapefruit, 3^, average size 70
Grapefruit, ^, average size, with honey or sugar 140
Grapefruit juice 45
Grape juice 100
Grapes, large bunch 100
Grapes, Malaga, 20 to 25 '. 100
Griddle cake, 4 or 5 inch 100
Halibut 85-110
Ham 270-400
Hard sauce, 1 teaspoon 100
Hominy, dry 400
Honey, 1 teaspoon : 25
Kale, cooked without fat, y% cup 20
Kohlrabi, creamed, ^ cup 100
Lemon 30
Lemon meringue pie 450
Lettuce, % head 12
Lettuce, jj head, with salad dressing 100-150
Liver, % pound 145-220
Macaroni 425-500
Macaroons, each 50
Mackerel 85-100
Mayonnaise dressing, 1 teaspoon 100
Milk, per glass 110-170
Milk, irradiated evaporated, 1 cup, diluted to drink 175
Mince pie 450
Muffin , . , . , 125-150
FOOD CALORIES
Mutton 225-500
Napoleon, average size 453
Oatmeal 150-250
Olives, each 15
Onions, cooked 50-60
Orange 100
Orange juice, small glass 50
Oysters, average size 6-16
Peaches, fresh 35
Peaches, canned, 1 with 3 teaspoons juice 100
Peanuts, ^ pound 620
Peas, fresh, cooked, ^ cup 50
Peas, dry, cooked 400
Pecans, 6 nuts 100
Peppers, green, average size 20
Pineapple, canned, 1 slice, 3 teaspoons juice 100
Pineapple, fresh 50
Plums, 3 or 4 large, fresh 100
Popover 100
Pork 300-620
Pork, salt 1000
Potato, 1, average size 100
Potato chips, 8 to 10 100
Prunes, average size, 1 25
Pumpkin pie 225
Radish, average size 3
Raisin pie 450
Rice, steamed, ^ cup 70
Rice pudding, plain, }/ cup 200
Rice pudding, with egg, % cup 133
Salmon, canned 225
Shrimps, without oil, each 5
Spinach 25
Squash pie 225
Strawberries, J^ cup 65
Strawberry shortcake 480
Strawberry shortcake, with whipped cream 530
Sugar, 1 teaspoon 17
Sweet potato j 40
Tomato, fresh or canned 105
Tomato juice ^
Tuna, canned with oil 315
Tuna, canned without oil 14
Turnips 45
Turnip greens JJ
Vanilla sundae with chocolate sauce 395
Veal 15-200
Walnuts, 6 10 Y
Water cress |
Watermelon *5
Wheat breakfast food, 1 ounce 10C)
MENU MAKING
A LTHOUGH it is desirable that each meal should be well
** selected, the food for the entire day is the real measure of
good nutrition. The food -selection chart should be used to de-
termine the types of food to be selected. The art of combining
these foods into wholesome and satisfying meals is the art of
menu making.
Every meal should be planned to meet first the needs of the
youngest and weakest member of the family. Foods that are
good for children are equally good for adults but foods that
are good for adults may be very bad for children. It is easier
to suit a child's dietary to the adult than to suit an adult's
dietary to a child.
Points to Keep in Mind in Making Menus
In order to encourage good digestion and to make sure that
the family enjoys the meal as well as receives benefit from it,
all of the following factors should be considered:
THE STAYING QUALITY OF FOOD Does it leave the stomach
quickly or slowly? For healthy, active adults working out-
doors, a great deal of food that has considerable staying quality
may be highly desirable. For indoor workers and for children
this type of food may be the wrong choice.
Fats and fat-rich foods all have staying quality. Cream
sauces, cereals and similar foods have moderate staying qualities.
Liquid foods, foods containing meat-juices or fruit acids are
likely to encourage quick passage of food along the digestive
tract. This is one reason for beginning a meal with meat soup
or fruit in some form.
THE MOST SATISFACTORY CONDITIONS of digestion and elimi-
nation are encouraged by use of generous amounts of bulky,
moist foods, such as fruits, succulent vegetables, whole cereals
and water.
Too MUCH SWEET FOOD should not be included, since it may
give rise to excessive fermentation in the digestive tract.
Too MUCH MEAT AND EGGS should not be included, since
47
48
wv^*
they may give rise to excessive putrefaction in the digestive
tract.
THE TEXTURE OF FOOD plays an important part in its attrac-
tiveness. Crisp foods should be associated with soft ones.
Variations in texture, even in a single dish, always appeal: oat-
meal with cream and a sprinkle of coarse sugar; rice pudding
with raisins; ice-cream with cake; crackers with cheese; crisp
salad with soft dressing.
THE APPEARANCE OF FOOD is important to civilized man.
Beautiful color and dainty, attractive arrangement play a large
part in a successful meal.
THE FLAVOR OF FOOD plays an important part. Too often,
however, food is selected only on the basis of what tastes good.
The main background of the diet should be made up of bland,
mild-flavored foods, like milk, bread, cereals, many vegetables.
The accent should come by the use of the more highly flavored
foods such as meat, fruit, sugar, condiments and herbs of
various kinds.
Suggestions for the General Plan of a Day's Meals
Breakfast
Fruit, fresh, canned, dried, or fresh stewed.
Milk, or cocoa made with milk, for the children. Milk*
cocoa, tea, coffee or other beverage for adults. Milk on cereal
for all the family.
Cereal, preferably whole, for all the family.
Bread, toast or muffins with butter.
If a heartier meal is needed, it may be desirable to add eggs,
bacon or other fat meat, and potatoes, adapting the method of
cooking to the children.
Doughnuts, cookies, jam, jelly, marmalade, and pancakes
with sirup should be considered desserts, even at breakfast time^
to be eaten only after more wholesome foods have been taken.
Lunch or Supper
An egg, cheese or milk dish.
Succulent vegetable or salad.
Bread and butter, toast, muffins, or plain sandwiches.
Milk for children. Any preferred beverage for adults.
MENU MAKING 49
Sweets in moderation. Only light desserts such as fruit,
simple pudding, and cookies should be served at supper.
The meal may be made more elaborate, if desired, but should
always partake of simplicity.
Dinner
Meat or other flesh or an egg or cheese dish. Dried beans
may be used if milk or eggs are provided in the meal.
Potatoes, unless the meal includes dried beans, macaroni or
rice.
Another vegetable. Two vegetables (not potatoes) should
be used with dried beans, macaroni or rice.
Bread and butter.
Salad may be served in addition to the meal or in the place
of dessert. Raw vegetables that may be served as salad are
particularly desirable.
Sweets in moderation.
If all the milk that a person requires has not been used, the
remaining amount may be served as a beverage.
If a more elaborate dinner is desired, the meal may begin
with soup or an appetizer, such as a fruit cocktail or grapefruit^
oysters in some form, or a canape. The problem of the formal
meal is discussed in the section that follows the simple menus
given below.
SIMPLE MENUS
Breakfasts
Strawberries with Cream Baked Pears
Corn Flakes Graham Muffins French Toast Maple Sirup
Coffee Milk Coffee Milk
Sliced Oranges
r , ' COtS A T Scrambled Eggs and Bacon
Corn-meal Mush Buttered Toast 66
Coffee _ Mi[ k Coffee Milk
Granular Wheat with Raisins Grapefruit
and Top Milk Codfish Balls
Oatmeal Gems Eggs Baking Powder Biscuits
Coffee Milk Coffee Milk
BREAKFASTS Continued
Any Fruit in Season Oatmeal with Top Milk
Ham Omelet Graham Biscuits or Bacon and Eggs
Coffee Milk Toast Marmalade
Coffee Milk
Oatmeal and Prunes
with Top Milk Hot Baked Apples
Corn Muffins Boiled Eggs Sausage Cakes Popovers
Coffee Milk Coffee Milk
Ready to Eat Cereal
Sliced Bananas with Top Milk
Poached Eggs on Toast Toast
Coffee Milk
Luncheons or Suppers
Banana and Nut Salad
Muffins Honey Milk
Tea
Spaghetti with Tomato Sauce
Waldorf Salad
Brown Bread Sandwiches
Milk Tea
Delmonico Potatoes
Corn Oysters Canned Fruit
Molasses Cookies
Cream of Potato Soup Wafers
Asparagus Sala<l
Toast Apple Jelly
Cocoa
Cream of Tomato Soup Saltines
Apple and Celery Salad Rolls
Creamed Salmon on Toast
Graham Bread and Butter
Sliced Oranges with Coconut
Cream of Potato Soup
Toasted Cheese Sandwiches
Fresh Fruit
Potato Salad
Sausages or Cold Ham
Apple Sauce Biscuits
Lima Beans in Casserole Muffins
Grapefruit and Celery Salad
Tea Milk
Cream of Tomato Soup
Croutons
Brown Bread Sandwiches
with Cheese Filling
Fruit Salad
Tea Milk
Cabbage au Gratin
Plain Sandwiches
Lettuce Salad with French
Dressing
Apricot and Rice Pudding
MENU MAKING
51
LUNCHEONS OR SUPPERS Continued
Pork and Beans
Pickle, Celery and Lettuce Salad
Brown Bread Plum Sauce
Tea Milk
Macaroni and Cheese
Stewed Tomatoes Bread
Baked Apple with Tapioca
Tea Milk
Creamed Salmon Baked Potatoes
Pickles Bread
Orange and Bermuda Onion Salad
Tea Milk
Scalloped Oysters
Toasted English Muffins
Canned or Fresh Fruit
Tea Milk
Cheese Souffle Baked Potatoes
Waldorf Salad Rolls
Cocoa
Cold Meat
Tomato and Celery Salad
Hot Gingerbread and Whipped
Cream
Bread
Tea Milk
Cheese Fondue Vegetable Salad
Bread
Cereal Pudding with Dates
Grapefruit
Tunafish Salad
French Fried Potatoes
Graham Gems
Floating Island Custard
Luncheons or Suppers Without Meat
Creamed Asparagus on Toast
Stewed Tomatoes
Cottage-Cheese Salad
Prune Whip Custard Sauce
Lettuce and Peanut Butter
Sandwiches
Banana Salad
Apple Sauce Cookies Milk
Stuffed Baked Potatoes
Cheese, Pickle and Pea Salad
Drop Biscuits
Pineapple Ginger Snaps
Scalloped Oysters Waldorf Salad
Graham Muffins
Floating Island Custard
Tea
Tomato Soup
Rice Croquettes with Cheese
Sauce
Green Peas
Baked Apple with Raisins
and Nuts
Milk
Brown-Bread and Cream-Cheese
Sandwiches
Apricots Vanilla Wafers
Tea or Milk
A VEGETABLE LUNCHEON
On one plate a small serving of
four or five vegetables, as:
Potato Turnips Squash
A Green Vegetable
Beets Carrots
Dinners
Broiled Steak Pot Roast in Tomato Sauce
Mashed Potatoes Potatoes
Asparagus Salad Buttered Peas Brown Bread
Rolls Butter Grape Conserve Fresh Vegetable Salad
Chocolate Pudding Fruit Jelly with Custard Sauce
Hamburg Steak with Tomato
Sauce
Potato Cakes
Creamed Cauliflower
Rolls Butter
Cranberry Sauce Cookies
Breaded Pork Chops Gravy
Riced Potatoes Buttered Spinach
Combination Fruit Salad
Bread Wafers
Liver and Bacon
Creamed Potatoes
Cabbage and Celery Salad
Bread
Sliced Bananas with Lemon- Juice
Veal Cutlets in Casserole
Creamed Potatoes Eggplant
Watercress Salad
Apple Pie Cheese Coffee
Stuffed Beef Heart
Glazed Sweet Potatoes
Buttered Turnips Cole Slaw
Tapioca Cream Coffee
Clear Vegetable Soup
Roast Chicken Giblet Gravy
Boiled Rice Wax Beans
Asparagus Salad
Fruit Gelatin Coffee
Swiss Steak Baked Potatoes
Creamed Onions
Caramel Rennet-Custard Pudding
Grapefruit Broiled Steak
Potatoes on the Half Shell
Spinach Hot Rolls
Chocolate Ice-cream
with Mint Sauce
Roast Mutton Brown Gravy
Creamed Turnips
Mashed Potatoes
Currant Jelly Bread
Lemon Sponge with Custard
Sauce
Coffee
Roast Beef Brown Gravy
Mustard or Horseradish Sauce
Franconia Potatoes
Fried Parsnips
Pumpkin Pie spread with Plum
Jam and Whipped Cream
Roast Pork Brown Gravy
Apple Sauce or Small Baked
Apples
Glazed Sweet Potatoes Spinach
Macedoine of Fruit with Whipped
Cream
Sponge Cakes
Meat Loaf Scalloped Potatoes
Peas Nut Bread
Lettuce Salad, Thousand Island
Dressing
Fresh or Canned Fruit
Small Cakes
MENU MAKING
53
DINNERS Continued
Pork Chops Baked with Apples
Scalloped Potatoes
String Beans Bread
Indian Pudding
Fish Chowder with Water Wafers
Grapefruit Salad
Graham Bread and Butter
Queen of Puddings
Broiled Chicken Riced Potatoes
Corn Fritters Rolls
Tomato Jelly Salad
Apple Pie with Cheese
Meat Pie with Potatoes, Carrots
and Turnips
Tomato Salad Bread
Prune Whip Custard Sauce
Broiled Halibut
Creamed Potatoes
Chili Sauce
Cole Slaw Brown Bread
Rice Custard
Tomato Soup Bread Sticks
Baked Ham
Southern Sweet Potatoes
Green Peas Rolls
Lettuce Salad French Dressing
Meringues with Fruit and
Whipped Cream
Coffee
Cream of Corn Soup
Baked Hash Spinach with Egg
Chocolate Bread Pudding
Coffee
Salmon Loaf with Creamed Peas
Mashed Potatoes
Apple and Celery Salad
Banana Cream Pie
Fruit Cocktail
Stuffed Turbans of Flounders
French Fried Potatoes
Creamed Peas Bread or Rolls
Tomato Salad
Fruit Ice Cakes Coffee
Dinners Without Meat
Cheese Souffle
Mashed Potatoes
Buttered String Beans
Radish and Cucumber Salad
Strawberry Shortcake
Cream of Vegetable Soup
Scalloped Tomatoes
Stuffed Baked Potatoes with
Cheese
Waldorf Salad Corn Muffins
Creamed Rice Pudding
with Apricots
Chilled Fruit
Stuffed Tomatoes
Parsley Potatoes
Creamed Asparagus
Pumpkin Pie Milk
Baked Rice and Cheese
Buttered Beets
Stuffed Olive and Lettuce Salad
Nut Bread Milk
Date Pudding Lemon Sauce
Boston Roast
Spinach with Eggs Rolls
Head Lettuce Salad
Bread Pudding with Cream Sauce
54
The Problem of the Formal Meal
The purpose of food is to satisfy hunger and to give pleasure.
After hunger is satisfied, more food is a hindrance to health.
After the appetite has been stimulated by a variety of foods, to
stimulate it further jades it.
At one time it was the custom to serve long and elaborate
dinners having many courses and much repetition of type foods.
Gradually the realization has grown that elaborate meals are
not justified from any point of view, social, physiological or
economic, and that even the most formal meal must follow the
rules of health.
Formal meals which conform to laws of health and good taste
may be arranged according to the following general plan:
First Course
THE APPETIZER Any one of the following types of dishes,
with proper accompaniments, serves to whet the appetite:
Canapes or tiny open sandwiches made with highly flavored
mixtures. Raw oysters or clams; oyster or clam cocktails.
Grapefruit or fruit cocktail; avocado served with lemon-juice;
cantaloup, watermelon or similar fruit. Soup, preferably a
clear stock soup.
Second Course
To SATISFY THE APPETITE For dinners, the piece de resis-
tance, or main course, may be any one of the following roasts
of meat, poultry, baked fish or game, with the proper accom-
paniments of vegetables and a starchy food such as rice or
macaroni.
For luncheons, the main course may be any one of the fol-
lowing a small steak, chops, made dishes or entrees of meat,
fish, poultry, game, eggs, or cheese, served with a succulent
vegetable, preferably a green vegetable, and rolls.
Third Course
LIGHT, REFRESHING AND CRISP The salad course may be
any simple vegetable salad with a suitable accompaniment of
MENU MAKING 55
dressing and breadstuff. Meat salads or heavy mixed or com-
plicated salads should not be served in this type of meal.
Fourth Course
THE SWEET OR Bonne Bouche This course may consist of
any frozen dessert, sponge, whip, meringue with fruit, or any
individual tart or pastry.
Fifth Course
To KEEP THE SWEET FROM BEING Too WELL REMEMBERED
This course includes a demi-tasse of coffee, with sugar, and
cream if desired. It may include fruit or crackers and a cheese
with high flavor.
If the person giving a formal dinner or lunch has not been
converted to the new idea of simplicity and desires a more
elaborate meal than the type just outlined, more courses may be
introduced. An entree may come between the appetizer and
the main course. Soup may follow fruit or raw oysters. Fish
may be served as a separate course, with meat to follow. An
entree may be introduced between the fish and meat courses.
All of these procedures are correct by custom.
Order of Courses
The courses in a meal are served in the following order:
1. Appetizer ' 6. Salad
2. Soup 7. Dessert
3. Fish 8. Crackers and Cheese with Coffee
4. Roast 9. Nuts and Raisins
5. Game 10. Fruit
For the place of the entree, see chapter, Entrees and Made-
Over Dishes.
MENUS FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS
St. Patrick's Day Luncheon
Cream of Spinach Soup
Fried Chicken Parsley Buttered Potatoes
Green Pepper and Grapefruit Salad
Lemon Ice with Mint Leaves
Small Cakes
Green Mints Coffee Hard Green Candies
56
^V^^XX^V^X>^^W^^W^VXV
Thanksgiving Dinners
No. 1
Clear Soup Bread Sticks
Salted Almonds Celery Olives
Roast Turkey Giblet Sauce Chestnut Stuffing
Mashed Potatoes Brussels Sprouts
Cranberry Jelly
Lettuce or Romaine Salad with French Dressing Cheese Wafers
Frozen Pudding or Hot Mince Pie
Bonbons Coffee
No. 2
Grapefruit Baskets
Olives
Baked Guinea Hen with Gravy Crabapple Jelly
Candied Sweet Potatoes Cauliflower au Gratin
Tomato Jelly Salad Graham Bread Sandwiches
Individual Pumpkin Pie with Whipped Cream
Candied Orange Peel
Coffee
No. 3
Grapefruit
Baked Loin of Pork with Gravy Browned Potatoes Apple Sauc
or Baked Ham with Southern Sweet Potatoes
Tomato and Celery Salad French Dressing
Thanksgiving Plum Pudding Foamy Sauce
Coffee
Christmas Dinners
No. 1
Oyster Cocktails in Green Pepper Shells
Celery Ripe Olives
Roast Goose with Potato Stuffing Apple Sauce
String Beans Potato Puff
Lettuce Salad with Riced Cheese and Bar-le-Duc
French Dressing Toasted Wafers
English Plum Pudding Bonbons
Coffee
A DASH OF ORIGINALITY IN A SET-
TING OF IMPECCABLE TASTE PRO-
DUCES SUCH BEAUTIFUL TABLES AS
THESE FOR THE BRIDAL BREAKFAST
AND THANKSGIVING DINNER (below)
- &
.-*
THE MOST EXQUISITE
CREATIONS OF THE
CLEVER HOSTESS ARE IN
PULLED AND SPUN SUGAR
FOR BRIDAL PARTIES
MENU MAKING 57
No. 2
Cream of Celery Soup Bread Sticks
Salted Peanuts Stuffed Olives
Roast Beef Yorkshire Pudding
Potato Souffle Spinach in Eggs
White Grape Salad with Guava Jelly, French Dressing
Toasted Crackers
Plum Pudding, Hard Sauce Bonbons
Coffee
Wedding Menus
No. 1
Bouillon
Chicken a la King Buttered Rolls
Olives Celery
Molded Fruit Salad
Ice-cream Bride's Cake Groom's Cake
Coffee Candies
No. 2
Creamed Sweetbreads in Ramekins
Buttered Rolls Olives
Grapefruit Salad Wafers
Ice-cream in Fancy Molds
Bride's Cake Groom's Cake
Coffee Candies
No. 3
Hot or Iced Bouillon in Cups
Creamed Lobster or Shrimps in Croustades
Hot Buttered Rolls Asparagus-tip Salad
Bride's Cake Strawberry Ice-cream Groom's Cake
Candies Cdffee
No. 4
Molded Chicken Salad with Mayonnaise
Olives Radishes
Buttered Rolls
Frozen Strawberries with Whipped Cream
Bride's Cake Groom's Cake
Nuts Coffee Mints
Afternoon Tea
Assorted Sandwiches Small Cakes
Tea passed with Sugar, Cream and Sliced Lemon
Bonbons Nuts
Japanese Tea
Sweet Wafers Toasted Sponge Cake
Tea with Sliced Lemon
Nougat Candy Salted Nuts
Afternoon or Evening Refreshments
No. 1
Fruit Salad with Mayonnaise, Boiled Dressing or Whipped Cream
Small Sandwiches
Coffee or Chocolate
Candies Small Cakes Nuts
No. 2
Chicken Salad
Olives Rye and White Bread Sandwiches
Ice-cream or Fruit Ice
Maple Cake Coffee
No. 3
Chicken Salad Sandwiches
Olives
Ice-cream Petits Fours
Fruit Punch Coffee
Chafing Dish Suppers
No. 1
Fruit Cocktails
Creamed Crab Flakes Bread and Butter Sandwiches
Coffee
No. 2
Welsh Rarebit Toasted Crackers
Water Cress Salad with French Dressing
Olives Coffee
MENU MAKING 59
Children's Party
Fruit Cocktails
Chicken Sandwiches Jam Sandwiches
Vanilla Ice-cream Small Cakes
Birthday Cake with Name, Date and Candles
Orangeade Candy
School Reception
Fruit Ice or Ice-cream Small Cakes Candies
Punch Nuts
For Hikers
Camp Hamburgs to Broil
Whole Tomatoes Potatoes to Bake
Olives Carrot Sticks
Cup Cakes Cans of Fruit Juices
Bridge Supper
Jellied Meat Loaf
Vegetable Platter with Sour Cream Dressing
Toast Melba Clover Leaf Rolls Saltines
Marron Mousse Coffee
Crystallized Fruit Salted Nuts
Men's Card Party
Platter Cold Meats and Strong Cheese
Potato Salad Spaghetti Casserole
Rye Rolls Poppyseed Rolls Salt Rolls
Olives Dill Pickles Gherkins Radishes
Rum Cake of Beef w { t h ou t Dessert
Coffee
Cocktail Party
Assorted Cocktails and Dry Wines
Salted Almonds Olives Potato Chips
Assorted Canapes
THE SCHOOL LUNCH
AS much care is needed in selecting and preparing the food
for the child's lunch at school as for the other meals
served to the child. If the lunch is inadequate or lacking in
food essentials throughout the school year, the child's whole
nutrition will be seriously affected, and his work at school will
suffer. The school lunch is one of three meals, not just a
"snack," and should possess the following characteristics:
1. It should be abundant in amount for a hungry, healthy
child. A little too much is better than too little.
2. It should be chosen with regard to the nutritive needs of
the child and in relation to the whole day's food.
3. It should be clean, appetizing, wholesome and attractive.
FOOD SELECTION CHART FOR CHILDREN
Select from the following chart and make the school lunch
bear its full share of responsibility for carrying the foods the
child needs.
MILK Y 4 to 1 quart daily.
VEGETABLES Two servings daily (in addition to potatoes).
FRUIT Two servings daily (fresh, canned or dried), one of fresh
fruit or fresh or canned tomatoes if possible.
CEREALS Whole cereal bread, usually. Whole cereal breakfast food,
usually.
WATER 1 1 /2 quarts liquid daily (may be included in other foods) .
How to Use the Selected Foods
Foods selected from the above groups may be included in
the school lunch in the following forms:
SANDWICHES Made as often as possible from whole cereal
breadsv as graham, whole wheat, oatmeal. Made to include
some substantial food which will increase the value of the meal.
Supplied in sufficient number to satisfy hunger. Made care-
fully and well.
SUCCULENT FOODS Whole orange, whole tomato* whole
apples, apple sauce 2 peaches (whole or sliced )| celery, stewed
60
THE SCHOOL LUNCH 61
fruit, prunes, baked apple, sliced fruit, dates, berries. Fruits
and vegetables are especially important in the dietary of the
growing child and pains must be taken always to include ade-
quate amounts of them. They are not always easy to include
in the school lunch, yet if the child is to be well nourished,
some way must be devised to get them in.
MILK ALWAYS This should never be omitted. It may be
carried in a special container provided for the purpose or it
may be included in the hot dish.
ONE HOT DISH IF POSSIBLE The value of hot food in the
lunch is now so generally recognized that many country and
town schools have made provision for serving at least one hot
dish at the noon hour. If not available at school, hot food may
be carried in the lunch box. A vacuum container will solve
the problem satisfactorily.
MENU SUGGESTIONS
(Milk appears in some form in each lunch.)
1. 4.
Cream of Spinach Soup (in Boston Brown Bread Sandwiches
vacuum container) with Cottage Cheese Filling
u . . , x ? ra( n i Cocoa, (in vacuum container)
Raisin and Nut Bread and Butter A , c
Sandwiches r , Apple Sauce
Apple Sauce Graham or Oatmeal Crackers
2. *
Cream of Tomato Soup (in Cream of Potato Soup with Pars-
vacuum container) ley (in vacuum container)
Ground Meat Sandwiches Peanut Butter Sandwiches
Sliced Fruit Milk Chocolate Stewed Prunes Plain Cake
3 ' 6.
Cream Cheese Sandwiches Celery ,. ,
Tomatoes and Rice (in vacuum Scramb] ed Egg Sandwiches
container) Lettuce Sandwiches
Custard with Jelly and Graham Milk (in container. See next page)
Crackers Orange Molasses Cookie
62
Preparation of Food
SANDWICHES Since sandwiches form a main part of the
school lunch, their preparation is most important.
Wholesome breads should be used for sandwiches. Graham,
whole wheat, oatmeal, brown, raisin, and nut bread are ex-
cellent. Cold bran or whole wheat muffins or filled rolls are
often tempting.
Fillings for the sandwiches for the school lunch require some
special preparation. The filling should be abundant in amount
and should play an important part in the sandwich.
Cheese, meat, eggs, nuts, dried fruits or vegetables should be
put through the food-chopper. Cream cheese, peanut butter
and other compact substances should be thinned with cream.
Ground meats, eggs, and vegetables should be moistened with
a small amount of salad dressing or cream and vinegar. Suc-
culent vegetables should be provided, if possible. Finely
chopped celery, lettuce, water cress or sliced tomato may be
used alone or with cottage cheese. Finely cut pineapple or
orange may be used in sandwiches.
Jellies, jams and conserves make sweet sandwiches or a tiny
jar of the fruited sweet may be tucked into the lunch box.
Dried figs, dates, raisins, thoroughly washed and steamed in a
small sieve or strainer over boiling water for thirty minutes and
then ground and moistened with a small amount of fruit- juice
or salad dressing, make excellent sandwiches.
Pickles, chow-chow and relishes should take a subordinate
place in the school lunch box.
The chapter on Sandwiches (See Index) , gives full directions
and recipes for a variety of sandwiches.
HOT DISHES Special vacuum containers make it possible to
send hot cocoa or hot soup with the lunch, also a creamed
vegetable, a hot pudding or other hot food. These containers
should never be filled the night before the lunch is prepared.
If foods prepared for dinner are to be used for the school
lunch, these foods should be kept in a cool place, uncovered,
over night and reheated in the morning.
MILK If there is any possibility that the milk will not keep
sweet for three hours, it may be put while cold into the vacuum
container. Good milk properly kept should be in good con-
dition if carried in a milk bottle or small glass fruit- jar.
THE SCHOOL LUNCH 63
LIQUID AND SEMI-SOLID FOODS Stewed prunes and canned
fruits may be carried in any small screw-top container. A cold
rice pudding or other pudding, custards or similar desserts may
also be carried in this manner.
Packing the Lunch
All foods not in containers should be wrapped separately in
waxed paper before being placed in the box. The neatly
wrapped articles should be placed, so far as is possible, in the
order in which the food will be eaten, so that those found first
may be eaten first without disturbing the remainder. The
heaviest foods, however, should be placed at the bottom.
Articles should be packed compactly in order to prevent the
food from shaking about. Empty space may be filled neatly
with paper. When space seems lacking, the difficulty may be
overcome by more careful packing, by resorting to such ex-
pedients as cutting fruits or cookies in half^ or by packing sand-
wiches the other way of the box.
The Lunch Box
Select a box that can be kept clean. Lunch boxes should
be washed, scalded and aired daily. Those made of light-
weight metal are best. Many attractive boxes are now made
with a vacuum bottle which fits the box. These are highly
desirable. A lunch box should not be air-tight, as a circulation
of air prevents the mingling of odors. All food should be pro-
tected from dirt by wrapping.
ACCESSORIES A small vacuum container of cup-like shape
for hot foods, a screw-top container for liquid or semi-solid
food, plenty of waxed paper, and paper napkins are essential
lunch box accessories.
WITHOUT THE HOT DISH In many places the school, the
Parent-Teacher Association or some woman's club provides milk
and/or prepares one hot dish at school to be sold to children
for a few cents. In this case the lunch box need contain only
the sandwiches, vegetables and fruit. The greatest care should
be exercised that vitamins and minerals are not sacrificed to
bulk. Carrot sticks, parsley, whole tomatoes, radishes, cabbage
leaves, oranges or grapefruit will take care of this.
TABLE SETTING AND
SERVICE
"""THE social life of a household, whether the household is a
* simple one or an elaborate one, centers about its dining-
table and whether that dining-table is simply or elaborately
dressed, it should, by its harmony and unity of setting, indicate
that it is arranged according to a definite artistic standard.
Every accessory that builds the table-picture the silver, china,
glass, and linen furthers the art of gracious living in the house-
hold.
CHINA
Perhaps in greater degree than any other domestic appoint-
ments, does china present an opportunity for indulgence of per-
sonal whim and the exercise of good taste on the part of the hos-
tess. Today there are patterns for every occasion. Breakfast
china is gay, sprightly; color runs rampant upon it; often whole
gardens shine on its face. But it would not be used for a
dinner, which demands fine china of exquisitely fine design.
Luncheon is still another thing. Its china may vary as the
season or as the whim of the hostess.
Modern day impatience with formula and rite is nowhere
more eloquently expressed than in the growing custom of using
different patterns for different courses, all related by the thread
of harmony. The hostess of today considers sameness identical
with boredom. If she uses a cobalt and gold service plate, she
may elect to use a simple gold-banded entree plate. The fish
plate perhaps may have yellow bands to match the flowers in
the center. The roast plate may present a pattern border,
touched with gold, and yellow, and blue. Her dessert plate will
be utterly different from any of the foregoing: it may strike
an entirely new note; but it will not be discordant or jarring.
Obviously, all dishes used in one course should match.
Plates of Various Sizes and How They Are Used
In the following list the measurements, in inches, are from
extreme rim to rim.
64
TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE 65
PLACE PLATE (also called cover plate, service plate, lay plate) .
10 to 11 inches.
DINNER PLATE (roast plate). 10 inches, but seen as large
as 1 1 /2 inches. The size of the dinner plate is fairly large, due
to the current practice of placing attendant vegetables on the
plate with the meat. The day of side dishes, each bearing a
particular variety of vegetables, has definitely passed.
ENTREE PLATE. 8 1 / 2 to9 l / 2 inches. A most convenient size,
for, in addition to its use in serving entrees, it is often employed
as a salad plate, or a fish plate: even a dessert plate when the
finger bowl is borne in with the dessert silver on the plate, the
finger bowl being removed later.
DESSERT PLATE. 7 l / 2 to 8 inches. Used for miscellaneous
desserts, and salads. It becomes the cake plate at tea.
BREAD AND BUTTER PLATE. 6 to 6 l /z inches. Universally
used now: the butter chip, for individual butter service is
extinct.
SOUP PLATE. 8 to 8 l /z inches at rim, for the usual type o
soup plate with wide, flat rim. There is also a bowl soup plate^
or "coup" soup, which has no rim at all. Soup plates are not
as commonly used as at one time, due to the spreading favor
accorded the cream soup cup and the bouillon cup for luncheons
and informal meals.
Cups and Bowls
CREAM SOUP CUP. This is a low, broad cup, handled on
both sides. Its width is from 4 l /z to 5 inches, and its depth
about two. It is used for the serving of purees, bisques, cream
soups, and is extremely popular for luncheons.
BOUILLON CUP. A tea cup with two handles. Clear soups,
consommes, bouillons are served in it.
CHILLED COCKTAIL BOWL. This is distinctly an innovation
in china service. It is a low, wide bowl, fitted with a separate
small container. The space between the bowl proper and the
inner cup is filled with crushed ice. Used for grapefruit,
shrimp cocktail, and many other foods best served chilled.
GLASS
Of late years, an awakening appreciation of the charm of
glass has taken place. Perhaps the appeal of glorious color,
66
\s*s
so striking in this substance, accounts for it. Blue in varying
tones was some years ago in wide favor; then amethyst dis-
placed it. Rapidly came amber, and green, which maintain a
deserved respect, because of their adaptability. Rose, canary,
sapphire, in quick succession no color today is unrepresented.
Glass is often selected to "go with" certain tones of china.
The hostess with a sense of fitness has a glass service for each
of her dinner services. For her severely formal tables she uses
glittering crystal, etched or cut, engraved or gold decorated.
But there is ample opportunity for her to indulge her love
for color to the full, to arrange tables with an eye to the dining-
room effects^ or to build them according to her own color
preferences.
Kinds of Glasses
GOBLET. The goblet is the aristocrat of table glass. In its
usual form it is a flaring round bowl resting on a tall slender
stem. In certain styles, however, the "stem" becomes a mere
button. Goblets are always provided with a foot, however
small. The goblet is the dominant member of the "place glass"
group, and all glasses of a service take their shape from it, fol-
lowing its contours very closely.
OTHER PLACE GLASS. In addition to the goblet, there may
be placed at each cover at least one other glass for the cup or
other beverages. At very formal dinners two extra glasses are
often placed, but never more.
The shapes and sizes of these supplementary glasses vary as
their purposes. On the continent, for example, there is a
definite type of glass placed for certain wines. Thus a glass for
sherry is differently shaped from one for claret: it is more
sharply tapered and considerably smaller.
For the most part the glasses of this type that we see in
America are either the claret, or the tall shallow champagne
glass. The claret, whose capacity makes it a fine utility glass,
is used for almost any kind of cup. On the other hand the tall
champagne glass is often placed for its high decorative value.
Few glasses are as graceful as this shallow bowl on its slender
shaft.
SHERBET. The sherbet glass is a medium depth broad bowl
on a short stem. In it are served sherbets, ice-cream, frozen
(desserts. Much used now, however, for this purpose is the tall
TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE 67
shallow champagne glass, perhaps because of its more imposing
height and dignity.
HOLLOW STEM CHAMPAGNE. This glass is similar to the tall
champagne glass, except that the stem instead of being solid
is hollow to the very bottom. While its primary use was for
serving champagne, today we often serve in it ginger ale, and
other carbonated drinks. The hollow stem releasing a train of
sparkling bubbles is picturesque indeed.
FINGER BOWL. The finger bowl is a low broad bowl^ vari-
ously shaped. It is usually seen without a "foot," but certain
styles have such supports. Finger bowls are fitted with match-
ing under-plates, but their use is optional.
GRAPEFRUIT BOWL. This is a double bowl for chilled food
cocktails. It consists of a large bowl on a stem. Within it is
placed a smaller "cup" or "lining." The grapefruit or other
cocktail is put in the small cup, and the space between the cups
is filled with crushed ice.
TUMBLER. In its simplest form, a tumbler is simply a glass
cylinder with one end closed. But the glass designer does
wonders with it. lie mounts it on a foot: he shapes its sides in
lovely contours: often he makes it angular instead of round.
The sizes commonly used are:
Apollinaris Tumbler. This is a small, narrow tumbler used
for liquids that are served in small quantities, such as orange
juice, grape juice, mineral water. It is often used for water
when space is at a premium, as on breakfast trays, or at bridge
tables. It holds about five ounces.
Table Tumbler. Also called water tumbler. It is a low
tumbler, containing about ten ounces, and is used to serve water
informally, at simple meals.
There is also a water tumbler of about the same capacity, but
narrower and taller, sometimes called the "Ale tumbler."
Highball Tumbler. A tall tumbler, used to serve "long
drinks," or iced tea, iced coffee, iced chocolate, and so forth. It
holds about 12 ounces.
Iced Tea Tumbler. A normal iced tea tumbler, sufficiently
large to contain plenty of ice. Its capacity runs from 14 to 16
ounces.
BESIDES THE PIECES IN GENERAL USE DESCRIBED ABOVE^
there are all manner of articles blown for special uses: trays for
hors d'oeuvres; salad bowls, salt dips, saucers for berries, and
plates of various sizes.
68
SILVER
The silver on your table is a declaration of your taste.
Whether it is sterling or plate, there is, in an excellent pattern
and in the perfect form and proportion of the utensils, an
unmistakable aristocracy that gives distinction.
Modern methods of manufacturing silver plate have made
it not only durable but beautiful as well. Plated silver ranges
from the very durable triple-plated ware, (heavy weight) which
lasts a lifetime, through the double plate (medium weight)
which has good wearing qualities, to the single plate which is
light weight.
When you choose a pattern of silver, examine all the pieces?
to be sure that you approve of the shapes of all the pieces,
that the pieces are perfectly balanced, that the handles are
comfortable to hold, and that the tips of the handles of the
knives and forks fit perfectly into the center of the palm
of the hand. Find out how long the pattern has been on the
market, and, if possible, how long it is to be made, so that you
will not suddenly discover that the pattern has been "discon-
tinued."
Place silver, or flat silver as it is sometimes called, consists of
the knives, forks, and spoons necessary for general use at table.
Knives and Forks
The dinner knife and fork, although imposing members of
the silver-family, are not the most important members, for
their use is limited to the main course of dinner.
The luncheon knife and fork offer the greatest variety of
uses. They may be used "around the clock," for breakfast, for
luncheon, for supper, and for certain courses at dinner, such as
hors d'oeuvres, entree, fish, salad, for dishes served in a rame-
kin, for dishes served at informal entertaining, and for large
and small sandwiches.
Smaller than the luncheon knife and fork are the tea knife
and fork, with their increasingly-recognized number of uses.
Butter spreaders are necessary in your first list.
Later if you are not content to use the medium size knives
and forks or the tea knives and forks for special courses like
fish 2 entree, salad, and fruit, you may buy fish knives and forks.
TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE
69
entree knives and forks, and salad knives and forks (or, if you
prefer, individual salad forks,) and fruit knives, or preferably,
fruit knives and forks.
Spoons
Accompanying the medium size knife and forkj and of a
size between a teaspoon and a tablespoon, is the dessert spoon,
the spoon of a variety of uses, from eating soup and cereals,
to eating desserts such as pudding and compote of fruit.
Teaspoons have a great variety of uses, and while these are
the first kind of small spoon to be bought you will want
to add when you can, orange spoons, bouillon spoons, ice-cream
spoons, coffee spoons, five o'clock teaspoons, and iced tea spoons.
A List of Useful
2 or 3 Tablespoons
2 or 3 Dinner Forks (for serving)
Medium size Carving Set (or
steak set) 2 pieces (or large
size carving set)
Butter Knife or Butter Pick
Gravy Ladle
Sugar Tongs
Pie or Tart Server, long and flat
Cold Meat Fork
Olive Spoon (pierced) or Olive
Fork
Berry Spoon. A very convenient
serving-spoon which can be
used in serving berries, large
vegetables, casserole dishes,
and puddings
Jelly Server, for jelly, marmalade,
honey, etc.
Preserve Spoon
Long Handled Fork and Spoon,
for serving salad from a cen-
tral bowl
Pickle Fork, usually two-tined
Serving Pieces
Pierced server, usually called a
tomato-server, useful in serv-
ing sliced tomatoes, fritters,
poached eggs, sliced pineapple,
etc.
Salad Dressing Ladle, smaller
than gravy ladle. Can also be
used for serving whipped
cream
Lemon Fork
Asparagus Server
Entree Server, wide and flat
Cake fork
Sardine Server
Ice Tongs
Ice Spoon
Sugar Spoon
Sugar Sifter for powdered sugar
Ice-cream Knife or Ice-cream
Server
Cheese Server
Melon Knife
Grape Scissors
LINEN
White linen damask is the classic covering for the dinner-
table. Linen and lace are often combined and sometimes
elaborate all-lace table-cloths are used. When a lace cloth is
used, it is placed on a bare table.
In the colored damasks every woman will find an opportunity
to vary her table setting effects occasionally with a harmonious
combination of pastel shades in table-cloth and glass and china
and flower-centerpiece. But the conservative woman still uses
white damask for her formal dinners, and undoubtedly will
continue to do so.
Table-cloths
Before you buy your table-cloths, carefully measure your
table, and allow a twelve- to fifteen-inch hangover for your
dinner cloths, and an eight- to twelve-inch hangover for your
luncheon cloths.
Table-cloths should be French-hemmed, with the hem three-
eighths of an inch to one-half an inch wide, and napkins, also
French-hemmed, have hems of from one-eighth of an inch to
one-quarter of an inch wide.
A white linen damask cloth is as appropriate to the formal
or informal luncheon as to the formal or informal dinner. Gay
colored sets of damask or of less formal materials are often
used. Linen runners, with small luncheon napkins to match*
are popular, especially on long tables like refectory tables. An
especially beautiful table is sometimes left bare except for the
lace rounds under the centerpiece, plates, and glasses. Damask
napkins are used with these.
Luncheon sets are appropriate for use at breakfast, luncheon^
an informal dinner on the porch, or an informal supper.
For the tea table one may use an embroidered or hemstitched
teacloth, or a simple or elaborate lace cover^ or a combination
of linen and lace.
Napkins
Table-cloths and napkins should match. For formal dinners
an unusually large napkin is smart, but nowadays napkins, like
most other "furnishings," have shrunk, and one rarely en-
counters dinner napkins larger than twenty-eight inches and
usually not larger than twenty- four inches.
Luncheon napkins are from thirteen inches to eighteen inches
square. White hemstitched luncheon napkins are often used
with a white linen damask cloth.
TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE ft
Breakfast napkins, often colored or with a colored border to
match the cloth, are usually a bit smaller than luncheon napkins
but may be the same size.
Appropriate to the appointments of the tea table are the
small tea napkins, sometimes of fine handkerchief linen with
scalloped edges, sometimes of damask with hemstitched borders,
and sometimes of heavy linen with drawnwork borders. In
houses with Early American furnishings and with excellent
laundry technic the old-fashioned damask napkins with
fringe edges add a charmingly quaint touch. But with uncer-
tain laundering these are very apt to be unattractive looking.
Monogramming
The pattern or design of the cloth and napkins and the type,
design, and size of the monograms embroidered on them should
make a perfect unity.
For table-cloths, the size of the monogram should be from
two and one-half to five inches. For dinner napkins from one
to two inches. For luncheon and breakfast napkins and doilies,
from three-quarters of an inch to an inch and a half.
When the bride-to-be is marking her trousseau linens, it is
best form for her to use the initials of her maiden name. How-
ever, there is no hard and fast rule for this marking, and she
may if she prefers use the initials of the first and last names o
her maiden name and the initial letter of the groom's last name.
If an initial is used instead of a monogram it should be the
initial of your last name. When only one letter is used, it is
usually a block letter sometimes ornate since a single letter
in script is not very effective-looking.
How to Measure for the Placing of the Monogram
Spread the cloth on the table, place the end of your measur-
ing stick at the corner of the table, and point it in the direction
of the corner diagonally opposite. Measure from twelve to
fifteen inches, mark this off, and place your monogram there
unless it will, in this place, interfere with the design in the
damask. In that event, raise it or lower it to make it artistically
well-placed.
On a table-cloth of two yards square or less usually only
72
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one monogram is placed. Larger sizes usually have two mono-
grams diagonally opposite each other.
Dinner napkins should be marked with a smaller monogram
of the same design as that used on the table-cloth. They are
now usually embroidered in what is known as the "center of
the side." Fold the napkin into thirds, and again into thirds
in the opposite way. On the top of the center square with the
selvedge toward you, place the monogram in the approximate
center.
Tea napkins may be monogrammed with the two or three
initials used on the other napkins. In very fine linen ones, cut-
out monograms are often used.
TABLE DECORATION
Have in mind a definite plan.
Consider carefully the artistic height for your table decora-
tions: table decorations that are too high are awkward, and
those that are too low become monotonous to the eye.
No table decorations should obstruct the view of the guests
(although at large, formal dinners, when the conversation can-
not be general anyway, they may be tall).
All tall decorations should be narrow (e. g. candles).
Avoid over- decoration and inappropriate decorations. Don't
crowd your table or make it look heavy.
Discriminate between a formal party and an informal party,
and adapt your decorations accordingly.
Keep in mind the color-scheme of your room, and the colors
of the food in your menu, and harmonize the color of your
table decorations with these.
Adapt your flowers to the type and proportions of your
flower-container.
Centerpieces
Centerpieces are of infinite variety, their beauty and dis-
tinction being limited only by one's imagination and one's
budget. Flowers are still and probably always will be the
most lovely decoration for the center of the table. The fashion
of supporting a few flowers in flower-holders in low silver or
glass bowls makes possible simple and very effective arrange-
ments. Unusual effects may be obtained with central mirrors
TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE 73
and with mirrored tables, with fruits, with formal combinations
of flowers and fruits, with crystal trees and flowers, with deli-
cate figurines, and even with amusing accessories of simple or
elaborate kinds. But one must be careful that the designs
built with unusual accessories are beautiful and appropriate
and not simply bizarre.
Compote Dishes and Candles
To balance the centerpiece, decorative silver or glass or
gold! compote dishes, two or four in number, are usually
placed toward the ends of the table. These dishes, containing
bonbons or mints or nuts, may be low, medium, or high, accord-
ing to the proportion required by the other table decorations.
Four candles, or more if tLe table is very large, are used in
candlesticks of glass or silver or fine china, and sometimes of
pottery for an informal dinner on an Italian or Spanish table.
Instead of candlesticks handsome silver candelabra may be
placed on each side of the centerpiece.
The candles should be lighted before the guests enter the
dining-room, and allowed to burn until they leave the dining-
room, even if they stay so long in the dining-room that the
candles burn down to their sockets!
The height of the candles should, of course, be adapted to
the height of the candlesticks very tall candles in low stand-
ards, and shorter ones in the standard of average height. Low
candlesticks with tall slender tapers are interesting and effec-
tive, but their use is more appropriate to informal occasions.
Formal functions seem to need the dignity of tall candlesticks.
Candles for formal dinner tables usually are the color of
natural wax or, if that is not obtainable, of white. As a matter
of fact, many hostesses use candles of this color on their tables
for all their parties. Of course colored candles may be used
to carry out a decorative scheme, and are festive and appro-
priate for special occasions.
Candles are now never shaded.
Service or "Cover" Plate
A service plate (sometimes called a "place plate" or "lay
plate," and, most appropriately, a "cover plate"), which is
74
~*s**r
about one inch larger than a dinner plate, is used in formal
service. A service plate is a background plate on which other
plates are placed. Since its function is largely decorative, it
should be as handsome as your circumstances permit. Service
plates are usually of beautiful china, though sometimes they
are of gold or silver or silver plate or even glass. If they are
of china, they do not match the rest of the china in design^
since they are usually far more ornate. In advance of the
meal, the service plate is set in the center of each cover, one
inch, or sometimes two inches, from the edge of the table. No
food is served directly on the service plate. On it are placed
the plates containing the first courses of the meal, such as fruit^
oysters, and soup. It is not removed until it is exchanged for
the plate of the first hot course after the soup.
Large service plates are not used for breakfast, and it is
usually inconvenient to use them in homes where there is no
service, or in homes where the food is served at the table by the
hostess or host or both.
Place Cards
Place cards are used at formal dinners and luncheons for con-
venience in seating the guests. A place card should be simple
(plain white ones are best) of about the size of a visiting-card.
It is sometimes engraved with the hostess' monogram or crest
embossed in plain white. Sometimes at feature parties, such as
Hallowe'en or Valentine's Day, decorative place cards are used to
carry out the motif of the entertainment. The name of the
guest is written on the card, the title Mrs., M/'ss, or Mr. be-
fore the name. Place cards are usually placed above the cover
so that they do not conceal the beauty of either the place plate
or the napkin.
Salts and Peppers
Salts and peppers may be tall, gold or silver ones, or they
may be low silver or crystal ones, or a silver pepper shaker ac-
companied by a low salt cup lined with old blue glass. For
breakfast use, they may be of china or pottery, consistent with
the informality of the breakfast table or tray.
It is customary to place a set of salts and peppers between
every two covers if the party is large, or a pair at each corner
of the table, if few are dining, or at two corners of a small
TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE 75
table. Individual sets are sometimes placed. Whether salt
shakers or salt cups are used is a matter of choice, but with
salt cups small salt-spoons should be provided.
Bread and Butter Plates
These convenient little plates are used at breakfast and
luncheon, and at family and other informal dinners. Since
butter is not served at formal dinners, bread and butter plates?
are not usually placed. However, there is now a tendency to
place bread and butter plates on the table, except at the most
formal dinners, many hostesses maintaining, and quite rightly,
too, that these plates are of great convenience, in affording a
harbor for the roll or bread and for the celery, radishes, and
nuts that are passed at dinner.
Bread and butter plates are removed after the salad course,
with the salts and peppers.
The Napkin
The napkin is usually placed at the left of the forks and
parallel with them. If the napkin is folded in a square or other-
wise folded so that the corners are up, it is placed so that the
open corners are toward the plate.
Often one sees the napkin placed on the service plate, but
unless space demands this, it is not to be recommended. Service
plates are usually of such loveliness that none of their beauty
should be sacrificed.
It is no longer good form to put bread or a dinner roll in the
napkin too many embarrassing moments resulted from that
custom, for it was most natural, when one was engrossed in
conversation, to take up the napkin unthinkingly and discover
the roll perversely flying for the regions under the table.
Finger Bowls
There are three methods of placing finger bowls:
FIRST, if the finger bowl is needed after fruits at the begin-
ning of a meal, or after corn on the cob, artichokes, and other
food that demands the use of the fingers, it may be placed to
the left of the cover when the table is laid or it may be brought
7 6
*v^s^
in toward the end of the course and placed to the left of the
cover.
SECOND, if the dessert plate and finger bowl are served to-
gether, the finger bowl is placed on the dessert plate, usually
with a small fine white or cream doily between it and the plate,
and the dessert silver placed on the sides of the plate, the fork on
the left and the knife or spoon (depending on what the dessert
may be) on the right. The guest removes the silver, placing
the spoon or knife to the right, and the fork to the left, of the
cover. Then he removes the finger bowl and doily and places
them on the left of the cover, leaving the plate ready to receive
the fruit or dessert.
THJRD, if the dessert is served in individual portions, say
in a sherbet glass or some other container, which precludes the
placing of the finger bowl on the dessert plate, the finger bowl,
on a doily on a plate, is placed in front of the guest after the
last course.
If especially beautiful glass or silver finger bowls and plates
are used, many hostesses now omit the doily between, maintain-
ing that it destroys the harmony between the bowl and the
plate.
The bowls, half-filled with tepid water, may be placed on
the side table before the meal is announced.
SETTING THE TABLE
Precision and decision are demanded in table-setting: mathe-
matical precision in laying the table-covering and in placing
the silver and other table-appointments, and artistic decision in
the choice and harmonious arrangement of the table-appoint-
ments.
Spreading the Cloth
When the table-covering is the conventional table-cloth, first
place the silence-cloth, of white, thick, doublefaced material,
which usually extends five inches over each side of the table.
This is sometimes tied in place to prevent slipping.
Over this, spread the table cloth, perfectly laundered. There
should be in the table cloth only one crease, the straight central
crease, and the cloth should be most carefully adjusted so that
this fold is placed exactly in the center of the table. The op-
THE BUFFET DINNER IS AN OPPORTUNITY
TO USE YOUR CHERISHED SILVER PIECES
Sterling Silversmiths Guild of America
Ike letvice ftot dinnet
APPETIZER FIRST COURSE
THE NAPKIN IS ON THE PLATE
OR LEFT OF THE FORKS. IF THE
COCKTAIL IS FRUIT OR MELON.
REPLACE OYSTER FORK WITH A
SMALL SPOON. ALL CLASSES
REMAIN THROUGHOUT DINNER
SOUP SECOND COURSE
THE SOUP PLATE IS SET ON THE
SERVICE PLATE AFTER THE AP-
PETIZER AND ITS SILVER ARE
REMOVED. THE SERVICE PLATE
IS REMOVED WITH THE SOUP
PLATE AND ITS SILVER
FISH OR ENTREE THIRD
COURSE
THE SERVICE PLATE IS RE-
PLACED BY AN ENTREE PLATE-
WARMED IN WINTER. USE
THE OUTER KNIFE AND FORK
ROAST FOURTH COURSE
THE LARGE DINNER PLATE FOL-
LOWS THE ENTREE SERVICE
AND IS REMOVED WITH ITS
SILVER
SALAD FIFTH COURSE
BOTH SALAD PLATE AND SIL-
VER ARE SMALLER THAN FOR
THE MEAT COURSE AND THE
PLATE SHOULD BE COLD
DESSERT SIXTH COURSE
EACH PLACE SHOULD BE COM-
PLETELY CLEARED EXCEPT FOR
THE CLASSES AND THE TABLE
CRUMBED BEFORE THE DES-
SERT PLATE AND SILVER ARE
PLACED
COFFEE SEVENTH COURSE
WHEN COFFEE IS SERVED AWAY
FROM THE TABLE, THE FINGER
BOWL WITH ITS DOILY MAY
COME IN ON THE DESSERT
PLATE DOILY AND BOWL
SLIPPED OFF BY THE GUEST AS
DESSERT IS SERVED. WHEN
SERVED AT THE TABLE, THE
COFFEE CUP AND SAUCER ARE
PLACED AFTER THE DESSERT IS
SERVED
Reed & Barton
ADDED TO GOOD TASTE, BEAU-
TY IS ACHIEVED BY THE MOST
CAREFUL ORDER AND ACCU-
RACY
TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE 77
posite edges of the cloth should fall at equal distances from
the floor. The cloth should fall from twelve to fifteen inches
below the edges of the table.
Placing the Decorations
Now having placed the background for your table-picture,
focus your composition by placing the table decorations, the
centerpiece, candlesticks or candelabra, and compotes.
For a table of six covers, four candles or two candelabra are
sufficient. The candlesticks are usually placed about halfway
between the center of the table and its edge, but their position
depends on the general form and design of the decorations.
The candles are unshaded.
Compotes, filled with bonbons or mints or nuts, are usually
placed between the candlesticks and the edge of the table
their position too, depending on the general structural scheme.
Setting the Covers
Now you are ready to set the covers.
A "cover" is the place set for one person at the beginning of
a meal. It consists of a service plate (called sometimes a "place
plate," and most appropriately called, a cover plate), silver
utensils, napkin, and water glass.
In setting a cover allow, if possible, the standard space of
twenty- four inches, this space being measured from the center
of one plate to the center of the next one. Allow fifteen inches
for depth.
Place the cover plate in the exact center of the place, and
so that the pattern is up, in other words so that the pattern-
design is given its full beauty-value.
All the lines of the cover should go either across the table
or lengthwise of it. Avoid diagonal lines because they attract
the attention of the eye and take away from the harmony o
the design.
Place the knives in a straight line, on the right of the plate,
parallel to each other, and the spoons on their right. On the left
place the forks, also in a careful straight line, and lay the napkin
at the left of the forks with its edges parallel to the forks and
knives and spoons. When the cover includes a bread and butter
plate, lay the butter spreader on the edge of the plate so that
78
r**r*s
it is parallel to the edge of the table with the handle toward the
right. Salt and pepper sets should" follow this rule of placing,
as should the handles of dishes that are placed on the table, and
if a piece of silver is placed on a dish at the table (for instance,
the spoon on the plate under the fruit cocktail) it too should
be placed parallel to the pieces of silver at the sides of the
plate.
There are several other important rules for setting a cover^
and the basic idea of these rules applies to informal meals as
much as it does to formal meals.
KNIVES, since they are used in the right hand, are placed at
the right of the plate, with the cutting edge toward the plate.
SPOONS, with the bowls up, are placed at the right of the
knives.
FORKS are placed at the left of the plate, with the tines up.
This is because the fork is held in the left hand when the knife
is in the right hand. If an oyster fork is necessary, it is placed
on the right of the knives and spoons and parallel to them
or on the plate on which the oysters are served.
THE SILVER should be placed in the correct sequence so
that the person eating may use first the utensils farthest from
the plate and "work toward the plate." Not more than three
knives and three forks (not counting the butter knife or oyster
fork) are laid at one cover. If necessary, additional pieces are
laid just before the course is served. Usually the silver is laid
for the courses through the salad course, and the dessert silver
is either placed at the cover before the dessert is served, or
brought in on the dessert plate. For every item of food in the
menu the necessary piece of silver should either be placed at
the cover or brought in before the service of the course.
THE NAPKIN is placed on the left of the forks. If it is folded
in a square, the open corner is the lower corner, nearest the
plate.
THE WATER GLASS is placed above the tip of the dinner
knife. If there is a glass for another beverage, it is placed
to the right of the water glass or in a line slanting down from
the goblet to the right. If there are more than two glasses, they
are grouped artistically.
THE BREAD AND BUTTER PLATE is placed above the tips of
the forks so that it will be on a line with the water glass. The
butter spreader is placed on the bread and butter plate parallel
TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE 79
to the edge of the table, the handle toward the right and the
cutting edge down.
THE PLACE CARD is best placed above the plate.
THE EDGE OF THE SERVICE PLATE, the tips of the handles
of the silver utensils, and the lower edge of the napkin should
be placed in exact alignment, usually one inch from the edge
of the table. Some hostesses prefer that the silver be placed
two inches from the edge of the table, so that there is a mini-
mum of danger of its being brushed off the table.
SALTS AND PEPPERS are usually placed between every two
covers, or individual sets may be placed, or, if there are only a
few covers, sets may be placed at the ends of the table.
SALTED NUTS may be placed in small individual dishes above
the covers, or in silver or glass compotes.
COVERS should be placed directly opposite each other.
THE CHAIRS are placed so that the line of the table-cloth
is not broken.
TABLE SERVICE
Styles of Service
There are three styles of service:
RUSSIAN: In this style of service all the food is served from
the kitchen, by attendants. The host and hostess take no part
in the service. No food is put on the table except the decorat-
ing dishes of nuts, candy, and fruits. The food may be placed
in individual portions before the guest, or may be separated
into portions and arranged on serving-dishes for each guest to
help himself.
ENGLISH OR FAMILY TYPE: In this service all the food is
served at the table by the host, hostess, or both.
COMBINATION OR MIXED SERVICE: In this service the main
course is usually served at the table, while the soup, salad, and
dessert are served from the kitchen. Sometimes, the salad is
served from a large salad bowl, and the hostess serves the dessert
at table.
Service Suggestions
METHODS There are three methods of table service. Th
one often preferred is the left hand service, that is, the placing,
passing, and removing of all dishes at the left. Beverages are,
8o
rvs^y
of course, an exception, and these are placed at the right. In
the left hand service, the waitress uses the hand farthest from
the guest, that is, the left hand. The left hand service permits
the guest to use his right hand in helping himself. In the right
hand service the waitress places and removes all dishes from the
right, using the right hand, but she passes a dish at the left,
using her left hand. Often a combination of these two services
is used: that is, the dishes are placed and passed at the left, and
plates are removed from the right. A hostess decides which
method seems to her the easiest and most practical for her
household, and directs her service accordingly.
ORDER OF SERVICE In many houses the hostess is served first.
This is a relic of the old custom of taking it for granted that
the giver of the feast prove the absence of poison by first tast-
ing of the food or drinking of the beverage! Some hostesses too
justify this custom by maintaining that, when complicated foods
are served, the hostess indicates to her guests the methods by
which they can most conveniently serve themselves.
However, the custom of serving the honor guest first is grow-
ing, and many hostesses now insist on giving the chief guest
this additional compliment.
The former custom of serving all the ladies first and the
gentlemen afterward is no longer in vogue, for this method
consumed too much time and delayed the service. Now guests
are served in the order in which they are seated, usually begin-
ning with the honor guest or the hostess and proceeding to the
right.
THE EVER-PRESENT PLATE It is an important rule of good
service that there must be a plate before each guest until the
salad course is removed. As soon as one plate is removed, an-
other is put in its place. The first course if a pre-soup course
is either served from a large dish, in which case a plate is
placed for it on the cover plate, or is brought in on a plate which
is set on the cover plate already on the table.
When the first course is removed the soup plate is set on the
cover plate. Then, if the next course an entree, or fish, or
the main course is, as usual, to be served on a heated plate, the
service plate is removed with the soup plate as this heated plate
is put before the guest.
THE "SERVICE NAPKIN" On the palm of her left hand$
Tinder the dish that she is passing, the waitress holds a napkin
TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE 8l
folded in a square the so-called "service napkin" or "serving
napkin." She does not use a tray to bring dishes to the table
or to remove them from the table.
USING A TRAY When a waitress is passing two or three
small articles such as the cream-pitcher and sugar-bowl, or extra
pieces of silver, she uses a serving-tray, with a doily on it to
keep the articles from slipping.
FILLING GLASSES Water glasses are filled three-fourths full.
The water pitcher should be three-fourths full. When a glass
is being filled it should not be lifted from the table. If neces-
sary, the waitress uses a napkin to catch the drip. Beverages
are placed and glasses are filled at the right.
KNIVES AND SPOONS are placed at the right, and forks are
placed at the left.
BREAD, in the form of plain or pulled bread, rolls, or toast^ is
passed after the soup has been served.
IF THE FIRST COURSE of an informal dinner or luncheon is a
cold course, it may be on the table when the guests enter the
dining-room. If it is hot, it is served after the guests are seated.
BEFORE PASSING A DISH TO A GUEST the waitress should
see that adequate silver is placed on the dish usually a serv-
ing-fork on the left and a serving-spoon on the right in a
convenient position. She should, if necessary, rearrange the
silver before offering the dish to the guest.
FOOD SHOULD BE PLACED ON THE TABLE, passed, and re-
moved in the order of its importance in the course.
IF A SALAD is SERVED WITH THE MEAT COURSE, it is placed
on the more convenient side of the plate. If there is no extra
glass on the right side, it is usually more convenient to the guest
to have the salad placed on the right.
HOT FOOD SHOULD BE SERVED HOT on heated dishes.
COLD FOOD SHOULD BE SERVED COLD on cold dishes.
WHEN THE HOST AND HOSTESS DO THE SERVING AT TABLE,
the host serves the meat, and often the vegetables, and the hos-
tess serves the soup, salad, dessert, and beverage.
IN THE MAID-LESS HOUSEHOLD, the hostess will find great
convenience in the tea-wagon or any other kind of serving-
table that may stand at her right, ready to help her.
BEFORE THE DESSERT COURSE, the table should be cleat ed
and crumbed. The salts and peppers, the bread and butter
plates, and all other accessories or dishes that will not be used
82
V/N^
in the dessert course, are removed on a tray. When the table
is crumbed a small folded napkin and a plate should be used,
and the crumb-clearing is done at the left of the guest.
WHEN THE DESSERT is FINISHED, the dessert plate is ex-
changed for an after-dinner coffee cup, if the coffee is served
at table.
AT THE END OF THE COFFEE COURSE, the cups are ex-
changed for finger bowls if these were not placed with the
dessert.
THERE is INCREASING INCLINATION to serve after-dinner
coffee in the drawing room, living room or the library. The plan
has many advantages. The original reason was to give guests
more freedom and more luxury dining-room chairs are stiff
at best. But in large families, young adults and children are
eager to be excused the former for their own plans and the
latter have school work to do, besides which they do not or
should not drink coffee. The adults want to continue their dis-
cussions without interruption, while they have coffee, liqueurs
and smokes at their leisure.
Besides, in many American homes, servants come in by the
day or the hour. Serving coffee in the living room, in addition
to the comfort it gives host and guests, allows maids to finish
the cleaning-up process with more speed and care as well as
more freedom. The coffee service can be done last or even left
until morning without catastrophe. In the maidless home, the
dining-room doors can be closed, the lights turned out and both
hostess and guests forget the work that awaits the former, in
the glow of the larger, more comfortable and less formal living
room. Moreover, in many modern homes the dining room has
disappeared and its function taken over by an enlarged living
room, with or without a dining alcove or solarium but almost
always when there is a garden, by the terrace used for meals
out of doors. In homes with this arrangement there should be
an appropriate screen to set around the table used for dining,
when the guests move into the living room proper or onto the
terrace. Often when there is a dining alcove, these screens are
attached to opposing walls as permanent fixtures of the room,
and need only to be swung out to meet around the disheveled
table. For kss formal entertaining see page 724.
CARVING
SKILL in carving depends upon two things: first, a knowl-
edge of the anatomy of that which is to be carved, and
second, good tools with which to work.
EQUIPMENT FOR CARVING
FOR THE AVERAGE FAMILY, two carving knives are desirable;
one with a long, keen blade for large roasts, and a smaller,
lighter one for steaks, cutlets and poultry. One two-pronged
fork can be used with both knives.
FOR A SMALL FAMILY, where large joints are not served, the
smaller knife will be adequate.
THE CARVING KNIFE SHOULD BE SHARP when it is brought
to the table. It should never be sharpened at the table.
THE CARVER SHOULD REMAIN SEATED while carving and
should carve enough for all who are at the table before he
begins to serve anyone.
THE PLATTER SHOULD BE LARGE ENOUGH to give room not
only for the meat that is to be carved but also for the carved
portions.
A SERVING SPOON should be provided for the gravy.
TO CARVE BEEF
Beefsteak
First separate the meat from the bone by cutting along the
edge of the bone with the thin point of the knife.
Beginning with the wide or bone end of a porterhouse or
sirloin steak, and following the grain of the meat, divide each
section into portions an inch or slightly more in width, depend-
ing on the number to be served.
In porterhouse and similar steaks, the tenderloin and the
wider section are more tender and have a finer flavor and text-
ure than the narrow section. Give a serving of the finer quality
meat and one of the less choice meat to each person.
The small or flank end of a porterhouse steak is of poor
83
84
>W/"
quality, suited only for stewing or braizing, and should not
be served with the rest of the steak.
Add to each portion a bit of garnish, a spoon of dish gravy,
and if the steak is planked, a serving of vegetables.
Roast Beef
Carve all roasts across the grain of the meat. The thickness
of the slices varies with the kind of roast that is being carved,
and may be influenced by the personal preferences of the people
for whom the carving is being done. Generally the slices
should be thin, but whether thin or thick, they should be even
and attractive looking.
FILLET OR TENDERLOIN ROAST Hold the roast firmly with
the fork and cut the meat squarely across the grain in slices
slightly less than one-half inch in thickness. Begin with the
thick or forward portion. Serve one slice to each person.
LOIN, ROUND OR RUMP ROAST Cut across the grain, as
with a tenderloin roast, but carve the slices as thin as possible,
because the meat is less tender than the fillet.
STANDING RIB ROAST Place the roast cut side up on a platter
with the ribs to the left. Thrust the fork firmly into the side
below the upper bone and cut slices l /$ to % mcri thick toward
the fork, across the grain, until the bone is reached. Cut several
slices and then separate from the bone by cutting down with the
point of the knife along the bone.
CHUCK POT ROAST Place the meat with the rib side toward
the carver. Insert the fork straddling the narrow strip of
cartilage running down the center of the meat and cut off the rib
bone. Cut horizontally across grain into slices % inch thick,
beginning at the right front corner and cutting up through the
slice at the center of the roast. When one side is sliced reverse
and cut other side.
SHORT RIBS Place meat so that ribs are at the back. Thrust
fork into meat and cut down between the bones. A bone may
be served with each slice.
ROLLED ROAST A rolled roast should be held together for
carving by skewers thrust directly through the roll across the
grain of the meat. Set the roast on end and thrust the fork
firmly into the side an inch or two from the top. Then, hold-
CARVING 85
ing the knife horizontally, cut thin even slices across the entire
roast.
Remove the skewers one at a time as you reach them in
carving, and move the fork downward from time to time as
necessary.
TO CARVE LAMB, MUTTON, VEAL
AND PORK
Leg of Lamb
Let the small bone extend toward your left and have the
curved side of the meat uppermost. Thrust the fork into the
center muscle and cut thin slices downward, across the grain
of the meat, till the knife strikes the bone. To release the
slices, insert the point of the knife beneath them and cut along
the surface of the bone.
If the leg of lamb is boned, cut slices straight through, across
the grain of the meat.
Loin Roast of Lamb, Veal or Pork
The backbone should be cut through at each rib before the
meat is roasted. Let the roast lie on the platter with the bones
down and the smaller end of the roast at your left. Carve
down between the ribs and serve one rib to each person.
Crown of Lamb
Carve down between the ribs and serve one rib to each per-
son.
Saddle of Mutton
Let the roast rest on the platter with the bone down and
the end diagonally toward you. Make a cut through the
center the entire length of the backbone, separating the meat
into two similar parts. Remove the meat from the bone on
each side by running the knife point between the meat and
the bone. Carve the meat into slices slightly less than half
an inch thick, cutting across the grain.
LEG O'LAMB IS CARVED
AGAINST THE GRAIN
National Live Stock and
Meat Board
A LITTLE KNOWLEDGE OF ANATOMY
GOES A LONG WAY TOWARD PER-
FECTION IN THE CARVING OF FOWL
-Institute American Poultry Industries
fJN CARVING STIIfc
ROAST OR ANY M|AT,
000 FORM IS THE |E
|ULT OF PERFECT BAL
^NCE AND MUCH PRA|
TICE
National Live Stock and
Meat Board <; , ; .. \ ,|
'
86
TO CARVE POULTRY
Roast Turkey or Chicken
Let the bird rest on its back on the platter, with the drum-
sticks pointing toward your left. Grasp the carving-fork
firmly in the left hand, with the tines pointing toward the
bird's neck and the tips turned from the bird. Insert it into
the leg so that one tine goes diagonally through the drumstick
and the other through the second joint.
Cut all around the hip joint. Press against the side of the
bird with the flat of the knife and use the fork as a lever to
bend the leg back. This will separate the hip joint and the leg
can be lifted off without difficulty.
Without removing the fork, lay the leg down flat, with
the open end pointing, toward "the left, and insert the knife
from right to left between the tines of the fork. Press the
knife down and it should go through the joint. At first you
may have to do a little feeling around to locate the joint, but
with practice you will learn how to insert the fork so that when
the knife is placed between the tines it will fall directly over
the joint.
Next thrust the fork into the side of the bird, rather low
down, and cut the breast downward in thin even slices.
Slice the meat from the second joint and serve a slice of
white meat and a slice of dark meat to each guest.
If more portions are needed, turn the bird so that it is
lying with the carved side down. Separate the second leg in
the same way you did the first, and slice the breast.
If the wings are needed they may be cut from the bird and
divided in the same manner as the legs.
Ordinarily the tips of the wings and the drumsticks are
not served with the roasted bird but are reserved for other uses.
Roast Ducks
Follow the same method as for turkeys and chickens, but
keep in mind that a duck's joints are much farther toward the
back than those of turkeys and chickens.
WITH WILD DUCK, only the breast is served. Half a breast
is usually removed in one portion and served to one person.
CARVING 87
Broilers
Arrange the bird on the platter so that the neck is toward
you. Insert the fork in the second joint; cut the flesh around
the hip joint; bend the joint over sharply with the knife and
separate it from the body. Separate the drumstick from the
second joint or leave them together, as you prefer. Split the
breast in two. Serve half the breast and a second joint or
whole leg to each person.
TO CARVE FISH
Special carving sets are procurable for fish. If such a set is
not at hand, the best thing to use is a dinner knife, with silver
plated or stainless steel blade, and a silver fork^ preferably of
the type known as a cold meat fork.
In carving any fish try to serve as little bone as possible and
avoid breaking the flakes of the fish.
Baked or Planked Fish
If the fish has been slashed before baking, cut through these
slashes, to, but not through, the backbone. If there are no
slashes, cut the flesh crosswise at intervals of about two inches.
Slip the knife under each section and lift it from the bone.
When one side of the fish has been served^ lift up the back-
bone and divide the lower half.
Middle Cuts or Thick Pieces of Fish
Middle cuts or thick pieces of large fish, such as salmon and
cod, are placed on the platter with the skin up. Carve the fish
in thick slices down to the bone, then slip the knife under the
portions and remove them from the bone.
Split Fish
When fish are split down the back and broiled or sauted,
divide them through the middle, lengthwise, then divide each
half into as many portions as are needed. Very small fish are
served whole.
GARNISHES
^[.ARNISHES serve two purposes. First, they make food
^-^ more attractive to the eye, thus stimulating the flow of
digestive juices and aiding digestion; second, they add bulk or
"roughage" to the diet or increase the nutritive value of the
dish.
GARNISHES SHOULD BE SIMPLE, appropriate and easy to pre-
pare. They should not be used to disguise deficiencies or poor
quality of any dish. Edible garnishes are more appropriate
man those that are used merely for appearance. At least one-
third of a dish should be left free of garnish and the garnish
should be so placed that it does not interfere with the service.
WITH A FEW EXCEPTIONS^ such as candied or maraschino
cherries, sweet pickles^ preserved whole currants, strawberries,
cranberries, etc., sweets are not used to garnish savory dishes.
TOAST OR PUFF PASTES should not 2 as a rule^ be used on the
same dish with potatoes.
Garnishes for Soups
One of the simplest garnishes for soup is a tablespoon of
salted whipped cream sprinkled with a dash of paprika or a
little parsley chopped very fine.
Eggs are used as garnishes of soups in the form of a baked
custard cut in fancy shapes, or as egg balls. (See Soup Ac-
cessories.) The whole yolks poached in salted water just below
the boiling-point may be used; one yolk is served with each
plate of soup.
Noodles, tapioca, spaghetti or macaroni cut in fancy shapes^
or quenelles (See Soup Accessories) make simple and attrac-
tive garnishes for soup.
Cooked vegetables cut in thin strips or in Julienne style or
in fancy shapes or slices, are often used to add color^ flavor and
nutritive value to a soup.
Soups may be garnished also with cubes of bread or puff
paste buttered and browned in the oven or fried in deep fat.
88
GARNISHES 89
Garnishes for Egg Dishes
Eggs are often served with toast in some form. They may
be garnished with crisp slices of bacon and a spray of parsley or
they may be served on a bed of chopped spinach, mashed potato
or chopped meat. A sauce or puree is a very attractive garnish
for poached eggs. Eggs are sometimes garnished with grated
cheese or cooked egg-yolk put through a sieve.
Garnishes for Hot Vegetables
Mashed vegetables are sometimes garnished with bits of but-
ter and a sprinkling of paprika or chopped parsley. Vegetables
that are cooked and served whole are often covered with grated
cheese and put into the oven long enough to brown the cheese.
Slices of hard-cooked eggs or egg-yolk put through a sieve
may be used as a garnish for spinach.
Garnishes for Meat, Fish, Game and Poultry
Garnishes often used with roasts of beef, lamb or mutton are
browned potatoes, croquettes of potatoes or rice, mashed potato
cups filled with green peas or diced vegetables, slices of carrot,
parsnip or turnip sauted or fried in deep fat, or boiled onions
and sprays of parsley or cress.
Roast pork may be garnished with any of the above or with
baked apple or sauted apple rings filled with jelly.
Fried bananas make a suitable garnish for roast of mutton.
Chops and steaks may be served with a simple garnish of
parsley or cress and a slice of lemon or in a border of French
fried potatoes, Saratoga chips or lattice potatoes.
Creamed meat dishes may be served with triangles or rounds
of toast, in borders of rice or mashed potato, in croustades of
bread, in timbale cases or patty shells or in cups of rice or
mashed potato.
Sausage, meat balls or chops are attractive arranged about a
mound of rice, mashed potato, macaroni or spinach.
Roast or fried chicken may be served in a border of celery
or of fried oysters or with a simple garnish of parsley or cress.
Roast duck is attractive with endive and slices of orange and
olives or with rice cups filled with currant jelly; roast goose
with broiled sausage, gooseberry sauce, apple or barberry jelly
90
*^\^
or cooked rings of apple ; roast quail with squares of fried mush
and cubes of currant jelly.
Fish steaks, broiled fish or baked fish are usually garnished
with slices of lemon and parsley or cress. Slices of hard-cooked
eggs are often used as a garnish for fish. Fat fish such as salmon
may be garnished with slices of cucumber or of tomato or
whole tomatoes stuffed. Fish may also be garnished with po-
tatoes, peas, onions or tomato in any form.
Other garnishes that may be used are celery curls, olives,
radishes, mushroom caps, small green pickles, strips of green
pepper or pimiento.
Garnishes for Aspics and Salads
The best and simplest frame for any salad is a bed of lettuce
leaves or shredded lettuce, cabbage or cress. Many salads are
made more attractive by a sprinkling of chopped nuts or capers,
minced green pepper or red pimiento or a grating of cheese.
A half nut-meat, two or three radishes cut to resemble roses,
dates or prunes stuffed with nuts or cream cheese, olives whole
or sliced, tiny new onions or sliced green pickles all add flavor
and color.
Truffles are wild, edible, subterranean fungi that are raised
principally in France. They are too expensive to be used in
large quantity but are highly prized as a flavorful garnish for
aspics, salads and sauces. Because of their black color they
make an effective contrast to the pale or vivid colors of the
more common foods.
Very attractive decorations for meat, fish, salads or aspic
are vegetables cut into simple flower designs. Cucumbers,
beets, turnips, Russian radishes and carrots with chopped
greens are the materials to have at hand. For a lily, cut a
long cucumber in half crosswise. Stand up on this cut surface
and with a sharp knife cut narrow strips, not too thin, from
tip to within an inch of the base. Continue until all the white,
too, is cut into strips resembling petals. Into the center in-
sert a long narrow carrot, root end up, to simulate the yellow
stamen. If necessary wrap base with a rubber band to hold
tightly. Beets and round turnips can be peeled and cut to
resemble budding roses. The turnips can be stained with vege-
table coloring if desired. Flat slices of turnip or Russian radish
GARNISHES
9 1
cut to resemble daisies have a center of carrot and a sprinkle
of chopped green. Calla lilies may be made of thin slices of
larger turnips. Roll until the edges meet in cornucopia shape
and fasten with a toothpick. Insert a long slender carrot or
carrot strip for the stamen and fasten with another toothpick.
Broccoli, leek, shallot, or spinach leaves may be attached. Easter
lili'es are made the same way except that the petal is split after
rolling the calyx.
i
CAltA lil^lS"0NLY ONE
OF THE MAr&MEfcFECWE DE-
CNS TO
CEREALS
EREALS or grains are the seeds of certain grasses, the most
important of which are wheat, oats, rice, barley, corn,
rye and buckwheat. To most persons "cereals" designate
only breakfast cereals; and, while the term "cereal foods"
actually does include also commercial products made from
cereals such as macaroni and spaghetti, corn-starch and the
different flours, the present chapter deals only with cereals in
the breakfast-cereal sense. There are many kinds of breakfast-
cereal products on the market. Most of them are made from
the cereals listed above but they differ because of variety in
the processes of their manufacture. The so-called breakfast-
cereals have a wide usefulness in meals other than breakfast.
Storage of Cereals
With a suitable storage place, cereals and flour may be kept
for several months. Unless there is a cool, dry place for storing
them, they should be purchased only in amounts that can be
used in a few days. This is especially true in warm weather.
Cereal products are liable to spoilage for two reasons: they
may become wormy, or they may become rancid. Products
made from the whole grain are more subject to spoilage than
the refined products, because the whole products contain the
germ, which is high in fat, and it is this that becomes rancid;
it is this, also, that offers suitable material for the development
of eggs laid by insects.
Cereals should be purchased from a merchant whose store is
known to be kept in a sanitary condition. Closed glass jars
are excellent for keeping cereals. If package cereal is purchased,
it should be placed in closed glass jars after it is opened, thus
insuring against infection by insects.
Whole or Refined Cereals
Seeds are made up of starchy material in a network of protein,
and protected by several coats of fiber generally referred to as
bran or cellulose. In the process of manufacture a part or all
of the outer coats may be removed so that the actual composi-
CEREALS 93
tion of the cereal is a matter determined by the method of
manufacture. If a large part is removed, the cereal is called
highly refined.; if a small part is removed, it becomes less
highly refined; and if the coats are not at all, or but slightly
removed, it is called "whole." Therefore, the terms "whole"
and "refined" refer to the amount of outer coating which the
cereal contains and not to the size of the particles into which
the grain is ground.
One way to determine whether cereals are whole or refined
is by the color. The less highly refined cereals are apt to be
dark in color, and the more highly refined cereals are light in
color.
Pre-Cooked Cereals
Cereals were formerly bought uncooked, but by modern
methods of manufacture they may be partly or entirely cooked.
Thus we have, in oats or wheat, a partly cooked product; and
the long list of ready-to-eat cereals or entirely cooked products
which need only a few minutes of reheating to be ready for the
table.
Cooking Cereals
Two of the important secrets in cooking cereals so that they
are acceptable are:
1. To allow enough water to swell and soften all the starch.
2. To cook them long enough to swell the starch and soften
the cellulose present so that the starch may be exposed to the
action of heat and water.
Cereals high in starch and low in cellulose or bran absorb
more water than do cereals containing proportionately less
starch and more cellulose or bran. Also, coarsely ground or
unground cereals require more time to cook than the finely
ground ones. These facts determine the method used in cook-
ing. A refined cereal will require a proportionately larger
amount of water than a whole cereal, though it will require
less time in the cooking; a coarsely ground cereal will require
longer time than a finely ground cereal.
Thorough cooking of cereals is necessary for two reasons:
first, cellulose requires plenty of time to soften; and second,
starch gains in flavor by cooking.
METHODS OF COOKING Cereals may be boiled directly over
the heat; steamed, as in a double boiler; or cooked in a fireless
94
*"N^ B S^"
cooker. The first is the quickest process but requires attention
in order to prevent sticking; and, even when stirred frequently,
some sticking may occur. Since the slower cooking develops
the flavor and more thoroughly softens the cellulose, the use of
either double boiler or fireless cooker is recommended.
AMOUNT OF WATER NEEDED Tastes differ greatly con-
cerning consistency of cereals. Some persons like a thin cereal,
almost a "gruel"; others prefer a thicker product, or "mush,"
while still others choose a thick "porridge." The following sug-
gestions are only general. The directions on the packages are
safe to follow in cooking any uncooked or partly cooked cereal,
then if a thicker or thinner product is desired it is easy to de-
termine the proportions that best suit the family and make your
own rules.
In General:
1. Rolled cereals, such as rolled oats or rolled wheat, require about
two parts of water to one of cereal.
2. Coarsely ground cereals from the whole grain, and unground
whole grains require about four parts of water to one of cereal.
3. Finely ground refined cereals require from five to six parts of
water to one of cereal.
Where directions are lacking for any cereal bought in bulk,
the following table will serve as a fair guide.
Amounts of Water to Use with Various Cereals
To ONE CUP USE CUPS WATER WILL MAKE CUPS PRODUCT
Cornmeal 5 to 6 5 -j-
Hominy Grits 4 to 5 4-j-
Oatmeal 4 to 5 4 +
Oats, rolled 2 to 2 l / 2 2 +
Rice 4 to 5 4 +
Samp 4 to 5 4 +
Wheat, finely
ground 5 to 6 5 +
AMOUNT OF SALT NEEDED Tastes differ again here, but a
safe rule from which to vary is to use one teaspoonful to each
quart of water used.
SWELLING OF CEREALS The amount of swelling is the same
as the amount of water required; that is, rolled cereals swell
about twice, coarsely ground or whole cereals swell about four
CEREALS 95
times; and finely ground and refined cereals swell from five to
six times.
TIME NEEDED FOR COOKING Cereal products have a nat-
urally delicious flavor, although not pronounced, which is
brought out by long slow cooking, and the right proportion of
water and salt.
Long slow cooking used to mean four to six hours, but manu-
facturing processes have cut the time considerably to fifteen
or twenty minutes in the case of some of the fine grained wheat
products, and even three to five minutes for partially cooked
cereals. However, a longer cooking only improves them.
In trying a breakfast cereal for the first time, follow the
directions on the package; then if you wish, adapt them to
the consistency and saltiness you prefer.
Some cereals may be boiled notably rice, and those partially
cooked products that need only three to five minutes cooking,
and so demand but little constant attention. The standard ways
of cooking cereals are steaming in a double boiler or baking
in a slow oven, as in making creamy rice and Indian puddings.
The baking method has obvious advantages, and can well be
extended to include cereals for breakfast or entrees, omitting
the sugar and flavoring.
If cereal is cooked in the evening for the following breakfast,
it may stand in the double boiler all night and be heated in the
morning. It is well not to stir it in the morning until it is
thoroughly hot, because stirring when cold is apt to cause
lumps which resist being made smooth.
Variations in Use of Cereals
Cereals may be cooked in milk instead of water, or a part of
the water may be replaced by milk. This method offers an
easy way of increasing the milk content of a meal and makes
the cereal dish more nutritious. Raisins, dried fruit or fresh
fruit supply a pleasing addition to cooked cereals. Dates or
figs cut into pieces and stirred into the cereal before serving
make a very appetizing change.
To prevent a hardening over of the cereal due to standing,
two or three tablespoons of water may be poured over the top
of the cereal after the cooking process at night is finished.
HOT TAMALES
Filling:
% pound chicken or 3 doves garlic
% pound veal or beef 2 teaspoons salt
3 ounces chili powder iy 2 cups hot water
1 small onion Bay leaves
Envelope:
4 cups yellow corn meal 2y 2 cups stock
1 teaspoon salt l / 2 pound fat
1 pound cornhusks
The "redi-cut" cornhusks may be bought. Field cornhusks
must have both ends removed; immerse in cold water while
filling is prepared.
Boil both meats in water to which have been added one small
onion, a clove of garlic and two bay leaves. When meat is tender
remove and drain stock, setting it aside to use in making en-
velope. Cut meat into small cubes. Heat 3 tablespoons of fat,
add meat and brown. Mash 2 cloves of garlic and add to meat.
Stir the chili powder and spices with hot water and mix well
with the meat. Cook mixture 10 minutes.
To make the envelope: Mix 4 cups yellow corn meal, salt,
half the stock and all of fat. Beat well with a wooden spoon
and then add remainder of the stock. It is very important that
the mixture be well beaten to make it Kght. Dry cornhusks on
the inside, spread thinly with mixture; add one teaspoon of
chili meat filling and roll up like a cigarette. Fold both ends
down. Stack in a steamer and cook until well done. If a steamer
is not available, place an ordinary kitchen pot lid on bottom
of a deep kettle. Cover with husks and stack tamales over this
in "pyramid" style. Pour four cups of boiling water over
tamales, cover tightly and cook over a low flame for 45 minutes
or one hour. Always serve tamales hot.
YEAST BREADS
BREAD as a universal article of food has much in its favor.
Flour, its chief ingredient, is not quickly perishable and
is rather easily stored and transported. Bread itself keeps well,
is mild in flavor, is inexpensive and furnishes material needed
by the human machine.
Excellent bread can be made of good bread flour, salt, water
and yeast. Better bread can be made if sugar and fat are added.
It is in the handling of the dough, not in the proportions of in-
gredients, that much bread is ruined.
Flours and Meals Used in Bread-making
"While flours and meals made from oats, corn, rice and other
seeds are used to some extent with wheat flour in making yeast
breads, by far the larger amount of yeast bread is made from
wheat flour only and most of it is made from highly refined
white flour. This is because the gluten of wheat flour possesses
properties of toughness and elasticity which enable the dough
containing it to stretch and hold gases produced in it by the
action of yeast or introduced into it by baking-powder. The
dough rises and becomes light.
However, the quality of wheat flour depends upon the season
in which the wheat is grown. Winter wheat is sown in the
fall, remains in the ground all winter and is harvested in the
summer. This grain is generally poor in gluten, but rich in
starch. Winter wheat is used largely for pastry flour. Spring
wheat is sown in the spring and is harvested in the summer at
about the same time as the winter wheat. The grain is generally
rich in gluten but poor in starch. Spring wheat flours are best
for bread making. Standard flours are a mixture of spring and
winter wheat^ and they vary little in quality.
IN SELECTING A FLOUR FOR BREAD-MAKING every effort
should be made to secure a flour of good bread-making prop-
erties. Bread flour, when rubbed between the fingers, has a
granular feeling. It will not hold its shape when pressed in
the hand. Bread flour can be used successfully in making
cakes and pastries.
97
98
>-
A GOOD PASTRY FLOUR differs from bread flour in contain-
ing more starch and not only less gluten but a less elastic gluten
than bread flour. It has an oily feeling when rubbed between
the fingers, and holds its shape when pressed in the hand.
Pastry flour can not be used successfully in making bread.
WHOLE- WHEAT or entire-wheat flour, combined in right
proportions with white flour, can be made into excellent bread.
GRAHAM FLOUR, although coarse, may, rightly combined
with white flour, be made into excellent bread.
Proportions of Flour and Liquid in Dough
For one cup of liquid use approximately three cups of flour.
This proportion varies widely because of differences in the
absorptive powers of different flours. A good bread flour will
take up more water than a poor bread flour. Flour, except
graham or whole wheat, should always be sifted before being
measured.
Yeast
The most satisfactory temperature for the growth of yeast
is from 75 to 95 F. It ceases to grow when the temperature
is below 30 F. and is killed at about 212 F. Yeast should not
be softened in very cold water if immediate activity is desired.
COMPRESSED YEAST A cake of fresh compressed yeast
breaks with a clean edge and has no odor of putrefaction. It is
creamy yellow and uniform in color. When old, compressed
yeast becomes slightly slippery, is streaky, and has an un-
pleasant odor. Only fresh compressed yeast should be used in
bread-making. In compressed yeast the yeast plants are alive
and ready for action, hence bread-making with compressed
yeast requires less time than with dry yeast.
DRY YEAST Dry yeast is a mass of yeast plants mixed with
corn-meal and dried. As yeast will live for some time and yet
can not grow without moisture, these dry cakes will keep for
many weeks. The dried plants are inactive and even when
warmth and moisture, food and air are supplied, they take
some time to become active again.
LIQUID, RAILROAD OR STARTER YEAST This consists of po-
tato water, sugar and salt, in which yeast plants are in an active
condition. The starter must be stored in a cool temperature
to retard the action of the yeast. The disadvantage of liquid
yeast lies in the fact that other yeasts than those best suited
YEAST BREADS 99
for bread-making may be thriving there also, and soon bread
made from this perpetual yeast may have a characteristic flavor.
Starter should be thrown out occasionally and remade with a
fresh yeast cake.
Amounts of Yeast
From one-sixth of a cake to four cakes of compressed yeast
may be used to one cup of liquid in making bread. The amount
of yeast within this range does not affect the flavor of the bread
if the dough is handled properly. With the minimum amount
of yeast, the process will take six hours or more; with the maxi-
mum amount of yeast, it may, with skillful handling, be com-
pleted in one hour and twenty minutes. From two tablespoons
to one cup liquid yeast may be used for each loaf of bread.
Methods of Using Yeast
Compressed or dry yeast should be softened in from one-
fourth to one-half cup of lukewarm water to which one tea-
spoon of sugar has been added. The compressed yeast may be
used immediately. The dry yeast may be set aside in a warm
place for an hour before it is added to the batter.
Liquids for Bread-making
All liquids should be boiled or scalded before being used,
to kill any organisms which might develop in the dough.
MILK is the best liquid because of its contribution to the food
value as well as to the appearance of the loaf. It gives a white
crumb and a rich golden brown crust. The loaf retains its mois-
ture better than when no milk is used.
WATER is cheap, but has no food value. It produces a satis-
factory loaf, however.
POTATO WATER produces a characteristic crust excellent in
flavor and hastens the action of the yeast. It darkens the bread
slightly but gives a loaf which retains its moisture and does not
get stale as quickly as when water alone is used.
Miscellaneous Materials Used in Bread
SUGAR is added to improve flavor, to produce a better bloom
in the crust and to hasten the activity of the yeast. Too much
sugar slackens or softens the dough. In making large quantities
100
*^/vy
of bread, the liquid is decreased if a large quantity of sugar is
used.
SALT is used to improve the flavor of bread. Too much salt
retards the activity of the yeast.
FAT is added to give slight tenderness to both crust and crumb
and to improve the keeping qualities of the loaf. Any soft fat
of mild flavor may be used as shortening in bread.
EGGS give a yellow color to the crumb and a brown rich bloom
to the crust. Because of their leavening power, eggs add to the
lightness of the loaf.
CURRANTS, RAISINS, DATES AND OTHER FRUIT add flavor
and nutrition but have little effect on the texture of the dough.
NUTS add shortening in addition to flavor and food value.
General Directions for Making Bread
SCALD ALL LIQUIDS to ensure destruction of micro-organisms
which might interfere with the action of the yeast plant.
ADD FAT, SUGAR AND SALT to the hot liquid and let it cool
until it is lukewarm.
ADD THE YEAST CAKE, softened in a small amount of water
to which one teaspoon of sugar may be added.
ADD THE FLOUR, sifted before measuring, except graham
and whole-wheat flours, which are measured before they are
sifted. There are two methods of mixing flour into dough:
SPONGE METHOD
Add one-half of the flour to the liquid-and-yeast mixture
and beat thoroughly. Set in a warm place. When the batter
is light, add the remaining flour, or enough to make a dough
of the desired stiffness, and knead thoroughly until it no
longer sticks to the board.
STRAIGHT DOUGH METHOD
Add to the liquid-and-yeast mixture all the flour to be used
or enough to make a dough of the desired stiffness and knead
thoroughly until it no longer sticks to the board. This method
may always be used with compressed yeast.
KNEADING BREAD Press the dough away with the palms of
your hands. Stretch the dough from the edge, folding the
KNEAD YOUR DOUGH
FIRMLY BUT QUICKLY
AND DEFTLY. FOLD IT
INTO LOAVES NVITH THE
LEAST POSSI BLE FLOUR.
DIVIDE YOUR LOAF INTO
THREE AND BRAID IT
Wheat Flour Institute
YEAST BREADS IOI
back edge over to the center. Press the dough away with the
palms of your hands, exerting sufficient force to cause the part
folded over to adhere to the mass under it, and repeat folding.
Turn dough one-quarter around and repeat kneading. Con-
tinue turning, folding and kneading until dough is smooth
and elastic and will not stick to an unfloured board.
FIRST RISING OF DOUGH Put the dough into a greased
receptacle large enough to hold at least three times the bulk of
the dough. Grease the top of the dough, cover the receptacle
and set in a warm place. Let the dough rise until it trebles its
bulk.
SECOND RISING OF DOUGH Remove dough from receptacle,
bring the top around the under side and fold edges together.
This leaves a ball-shaped mass, round and smooth on the upper
surface. Bread carefully shaped in this way seems to give a
much better product than seamy rough dough. Put back in
receptacle. Grease the dough, cover the receptacle, return to
warm place to rise again. This second rising is not essential
but is worth while because it improves both the texture and
the flavor of bread.
SHAPING INTO LOAVES Shape by folding the sides of a piece
of dough under while pressing the dough so as to lengthen it.
The top should be kept perfectly smooth and the only crease
in the dough should be on the under side as the loaf is placed
in the tin. If a soft crust is desired, grease the dough. To braid,
cut into three, roll lengthwise, pinch together at one end, and
proceed. Cover and allow to rise until double its bulk.
BAKING BREAD A loaf of average size should bake from fifty
to sixty minutes at a beginning temperature of about 400 F.
After fifteen or twenty minutes, the temperature of the oven
may be reduced. A moderate heat for sixty minutes produces
better bread than a hot oven for thirty minutes.
The baking process may be divided into four periods:
First 1 5 minutes the dough should continue to rise.
Second 1 5 minutes the dough should crust over and brown
slightly.
Third 1 5 minutes the center of the loaf should bake and the
crust continue to brown.
Fourth 15 minutes the loaf should shrink from the sides of
the tin and should be browned evenly over its entire surface.
It should have a hollow sound when tapped.
102
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Bread is baked to complete the rising, kill the yeast plants,
drive off the carbon dioxide and alcohol, dextrinize the crust,
harden the cell walls of the crumb and develop the desired
flavor.
Tests for Determining When Bread Is Done
1. When the color is a rich golden brown.
2. When the loaf shrinks away from the sides of the pan.
3. When the sides of the pan sizzle when touched with
a damp finger.
4. When a clean toothpick inserted comes out free from
any particles of the dough.
5. When the loaf gives a hollow sound on being tapped.
Characteristics of a Good Loaf of Bread
SIZE AND SHAPE A medium-sized loaf made of dough
weighing from one pound to one and one-quarter pounds costs
less to bake and is more likely to be thoroughly baked than a
very large loaf. A moderate-sized loaf is about four or five
inches deep, eight or nine inches long, and four or five inches
wide.
The careful shaping of the dough is the first step necessary
in making a well-shaped loaf of bread.
COLOR Bread should have a good bloom and be golden
brown in color with a depth of crust on top, bottom and sides.
The crumb should be cream- white in color with no dark streaks
through it. A grayish color indicates poor flour or poor
handling of the dough.
TEXTURE Nothing is more difficult to describe than texture,
nothing more indicative of quality. Perfect texture of the
crumb depends on kneading the dough until it is smooth and
elastic and until it can be kneaded on an unfloured board with-
out sticking. It depends on having the dough rise to double
or treble its size once or twice before it is made into the loaf $
and once in the tins. It depends on careful baking. To de-
termine the texture of the crumb, cut the loaf in two. The
holes should be small and uniform with no streak near the bot-
tom of the loaf and no lumps through the loaf. Press the
YEAST BREADS 103
center of the loaf with the knuckles; if the elasticity and mois-
ture are right, the loaf should spring back to shape.
The crust should be smooth without large holes on the bot-
tom and without a split on one side of the loaf. If the top
crust is rough it may be due to insufficient kneading or to
putting the dough into the tins before it is perfectly smooth.
FLAVOR AND ODOR A well-made, well-baked loaf will
taste slightly sweet, neither too fresh nor too salty, and will
have no suggestion of acidity, rawness or mustiness.
Common Causes of Inferior Bread
POOR FLOUR A cheap flour is an expensive flour because it
makes a loaf inferior in texture, color, flavor and volume.
OLD YEAST Dead yeast plants can not leaven bread. Old
compressed-yeast cakes or dry yeast which has been stored
away until many of the yeast plants are dead will act very
slowly if at all and will not give best results.
Too MUCH OR Too LITTLE KNEADING Over-kneaded
dough becomes sticky and will not rise well in the oven. Un-
der-kneaded dough makes streaked bread, poor in texture,
which sometimes contains lumps that might have been worked
out in the kneading.
Too MUCH FLOUR Too stiff a dough rises very slowly and
therefore often is not allowed to rise sufficiently. This is a
green dough and produces a loaf with poor flavor.
OVER-RISING Too long rising gives a very porous loaf with
little flavor, a pale crust and a porous crumb with broken, irreg-
ular cells. This bread crumbles badly. If the rising continues
too long, the bread is sour.
UNDER-RISING This gives a bread of dark crust which has
blisters just under the crust. The loaf is small and flat. It
browns easily in the oven. Such dough is said to be green.
Too COOL AN OVEN Bread will continue to rise too long
if the oven temperature is too low. The result is bread that is
very porous in the center and upper part of the loaf.
Too HOT AN OVEN The dough crusts over immediately
and can not continue to rise the first ten or fifteen minutes it
is in the oven, or the crust may break as it is forced up
usually on one side more than the other. The crust becomes
very brown while the center is underdone.
ROPK IN BREAD This appears during hot, damp weather.
104
*VXN^SX
It is due to the presence of a bacillus and the ropy, stringy
quality does not develop immediately after the bread is baked.
Rope gives bread a very disagreeable odor and makes it unfit
for use.
If rope develops all utensils used in making bread and con-
tainers in which bread is stored should be sterilized with boil-
ing water. Vinegar equal to two per cent, of the amount of
flour used should be added to all bread made until the supply
of flour is exhausted. This is approximately one-half ounce
(one tablespoon) of vinegar to one and one-half pounds of
flour.
MOLD Bread wrapped while hot molds quickly. Containers
used for storing bread should be washed and aired frequently,
and immediately if mold is found.
Care of Bread After Baking
Bread should be removed from the tins as soon as it is taken
from the oven, and placed on racks or crosswise of the tins so
that air can circulate on all sides of it. Quick cooling prevents
loss of moisture.
Varying from Recipes in Making Bread
Water may be substituted for milk in all bread recipes. This
is not always desirable, however, as one purpose of milk is to
increase the nutritive value of bread.
In recipes using compressed yeast, one cup potato yeast may
be substituted for one cake compressed or dry yeast. When
potato yeast is used it is necessary to use a little more flour.
STANDARD RECIPE FOR WHITE BREAD
2 cups milk l /z to 2 compressed yeast
1 l /2 teaspoons salt cakes softened in l / 4 to l /z
1 teaspoon to 2 tablespoons cup lukewarm water
sugar 6 to 8 cups sifted flour
Shortening, if desired, up to (enough to make a dough)
2 tablespoons
Scald milk, add salt, sugar and shortening and cool. When
lukewarm add the softened yeast. Add flour to make a stiff
batter, beating well. Add flour enough to make a firm but not
stiff dough. Mix and turn on to a floured board. Knead until
YEAST BREADS 105
the mixture is smooth and elastic to the touch and until it does
not stick to the hands or to the unfloured board. Put into a
greased bowl, brush over top with melted fat. Cover and set
in a warm place to rise. When it has almost trebled in bulkj
fold it under and let it rise again. When light, shape into loaves
and put into greased bread tins. Let rise until almost treble in
bulk. Bake in a hot to moderate oven (400 F. to 375 F.) for
fifty to sixty minutes. Remove from pans and cool as quickly
as possible. Well-made and thoroughly baked bread should
keep from five to ten days in a thoroughly clean, well-aired
bread -box.
POTATO BREAD
l /z cup boiling water 1 cake yeast softened in
1 1 /2 teaspoons salt l / 2 cup lukewarm water
1 tablespoon sugar 4 cups flour (enough to make
1 tablespoon fat medium dough)
2 cups mashed potato
Combine in order given, following general directions for
bread-making, straight dough method (page 100).
POTATO YEAST
(Liquid, Railroad or Starter)
'6 medium-sized potatoes ]/ 3 cup sugar
4 pints boiling water 3 tablespoons salt
1 cup flour 1 yeast cake softened in
l /2 teaspoon ginger 1 cup lukewarm water
Pare potatoes and cut in small pieces. Cook in the boiling
water until well done. Mash the potatoes or force them
through a colander.
Mix sugar, salt, ginger and flour. Pour over these ingredi-
ents the hot, cooked, mashed potatoes with the water in which
they were cooked. When lukewarm add the softened yeast.
Keep at room temperature twenty- four hours.
Pour into sterilized crock or jar. Cover and store in a cool,
dark place. Liquid yeast may be used for two weeks. It is
not desirable to keep it longer. When making new liquid
yeast, use tme cup of the old liquid yeast or a compound yeast
cake to start it.
io6
CORN BREAD
l /2 cup corn-meal l /2 cake compressed yeast,
l 3 /4 cups water softened in l /$ cup warm
l l /2 teaspoons salt water
2 tablespoons sugar 2% to 3 cups flour (enough
1 tablespoon shortening to make medium dough)
Cook the corn-meal in the water ten minutes; add salt, sugar
and fat to the mush. Cool until lukewarm, stirring occasionally
to prevent a film. When cool add the yeast and beat well.
Add the flour and mix well. Knead, using as little flour on
the board as possible. Put into a greased bowl, let rise until
it almost doubles in bulk. Work it down and let k rise again.
Mold it into loaves, place in pan and let rise until it has almost
doubled in bulk. Bake in a moderate oven (400 to 350 R).
RAISIN BREAD
2 cups scalded milk l /z to 1 yeast cake softened in
2 tablespoons shortening l /2 cup warm water
l /4 cup molasses White flour to make a medium
1 1 /2 teaspoons salt dough
% cup raisins, chopped and floured
Follow general directions for making bread, either sponge
method (page 100) or straight dough method (page 100). Add
raisins after the bread is kneaded.
GRAHAM BREAD
2 cups scalded milk l /2 to 1 yeast cake softened in
l l /2 teaspoons salt l /z cup warm water
2 tablespoons molasses or 1 cup wheat flour
2 tablespoons sugar About 5 cups graham flour
Follow general directions for making bread, adding only the
white flour at first. Let the mass stand in a warm place until
light. Stir in graham flour to make a stiff batter. Pour into
a baking-dish and when it has almost doubled in bulk bake for
one hour in a moderate oven (400 to 3 50 F.) . If a less moist
bread is desired, enough flour, part white and part graham,
may be used to make a dough and the bread may be made by
the straight dough method (page 100).
YEAST BREADS
107
WHOLE-WHEAT BREAD
2 cups scalded milk 5 cups whole-wheat flour
2 to 4 tablespoons sugar 2 to 3 cups white flour
1 to 2 tablespoons shortening enough to make a medium-
1 1 /2 teaspoons salt stiff dough
1 yeast cake softened in l /z cup warm water
Follow general directions for making bread (page 100).
RYE BREAD
Follow recipe for whole-wheat bread, using rye flour instead
of whole-wheat and adding caraway seeds if desired.
ROLLED-OATS BREAD
1 cup rolled oats 1 tablespoon melted shortening
2 cups boiling water l / 2 to 1 yeast cake, softened in
l /2 cup molasses or brown or l / 2 cup lukewarm water
white sugar 4^2 cups sifted flour
l l / 2 teaspoons salt
Let the rolled oats steam for an hour in the boiling water.
Cool and add the yeast, molasses, salt, and melted fat. Then
stir in the flour and set away to rise. When light, beat
thoroughly, place in greased bread-pans, let rise again, and bake
in a moderate oven (400 to 350 F.) one hour. If a less moist
bread is desired, add enough white flour in the beginning to
make a medium dough and follow directions for straight dough
method (page 100).
GLUTEN BREAD
2 cups scalded milk 2 egg-whites
1 yeast cake softened in l l /z teaspoons salt
l / 2 cup lukewarm water 4 cups gluten flour
"When the milk is cool, add the softened yeast, the salt, the
gluten flour, a little at a time, and finally the slightly beaten
whites of eggs. The mixture should be of a consistency to drop
from a spoon rather than to pour and should be baked in
greased pans filled about half full. Follow general directions
for rising (page 101 ). When ready, bake one hour in a moderate
io8
^/K^V>"
oven (400 to 350 F.). If a less moist bread is desired, add
enough white flour to make a dough, after beating in the
gluten flour, and follow directions for straight dough method
of making bread, (page 100).
REFRIGERATOR ROLLS
y 2 yeast cake 1^/2 teaspoons sugar
2 cups sifted flour %. cup milk
y s teaspoon salt l / 2 cup butter
Crumble yeast into sifted dry ingredients and mix well. Add
cold milk and make into a soft dough. Turn onto a lightly
floured board and knead until light and elastic. Roll into a long
narrow strip l /$ inch thick. Divide butter into 5 portions. On
half of strip place 1 portion of hard butter, thinly sliced. Fold
over remaining half of strip and press down firmly. Let stand
10 minutes in refrigerator. Repeat 4 times. After last rolling
wrap in waxed paper and chill in refrigerator overnight. In
morning cut dough into portions. Roll out each portion l / 2 inch
thick and shape into crescents, pocketbooks, twists or any other
desired shapes. Place on baking sheet. Brush with milk and
melted butter. Sprinkle with salt or poppy seed if desired.
Place shaped rolls in refrigerator, cover with waxed paper and
let chill l /2 to several hours or until needed. Bake at once in hot
oven (400 F.) 18 to 20 minutes. Makes 16 rolls.
STANDARD ROLL RECIPE
2 cups scalded milk 6 cups flour (enough to make
l l /2 teaspoons salt a smooth, tender dough)
4 tablespoons sugar 4 tablespoons shortening
1 yeast cake softened in J4 cup warm water
If a greater amount of sugar is used the rolls will be sweeter.
If a greater amount of shortening is used, the rolls will be
richer and more tender. Not less than two or more than eight
tablespoons of sugar or fat should be used, however.
Follow general directions for making bread (page 100)
kneading in a little less flour and permitting the dough to be-
come lighter during each rising process both after it is shaped
and before the rolls are placed in the oven.
YEAST BREADS 109
VARIATIONS OF STANDARD ROLL RECIPE
PLAIN ROLLS When dough is light, cut or tear it into
pieces about the size of a small egg or a walnut. Fold the
sides under until the top of the roll is perfectly smooth. Brush
the top with fat. Place in greased bread tin or on bread sheet
or in individual molds. When light, bake in a hot oven (400-
425 F.)
CINNAMON ROLLS Follow standard roll recipe. When
dough is light, roll into a sheet about one -fourth inch thick,
spread liberally with melted butter, sprinkle with sugar and
cinnamon. Add currants if desired. Roll like jelly-roll. With
sharp knife or shears cut slices from the roll and place them
an inch apart on a well-greased sheet. When light, bake in
hot oven (400 -42 5 F.) about twenty minutes. When baked,
the tops may be brushed with the yolk of egg diluted with a
tablespoon of milk and returned to oven to brown.
CLOVER-LEAF ROLLS Follow standard roll recipe. When
light, break dough into small pieces about the size of marbles.
Brush with fat and place three or four of these tiny balls close
together in greased muffin rings or pans. When very light,
bake about fifteen minutes in hot oven (400 -42 5 F.). The
success of these rolls depends on having the three balls together
equal only as much dough as an ordinary roll would require
and letting them rise very light before baking them.
CRESCENT ROLLS Follow standard roll recipe, adding flour
to make a stiffer dough than for most rolls. When light, cut
the dough into small pieces the shape of triangles. Brush with
fat. Roll each triangle, beginning at the base. Press dough
lightly with palm of hand, bringing ends around to form a
crescent. Place on tins some distance apart. When light, bake
in hot oven (400 -42 5 F.) fifteen minutes. Brush with egg-
yolk mixed with milk and return to oven for browning.
DINNER ROLLS Follow standard roll recipe, using four
tablespoons shortening, desired amount of sugar and two egg-
whites. Add one-half the flour, beating until smooth, then
add the beaten whites of eggs. Add the remainder of the flour,
knead lightly and let rise. When light, cut or break dough
into rolls the size of walnuts. Shape, place on well-greased
pans, one-half to one inch apart, let rise and glaze with white
of egg diluted with water. Bake in hot oven (400 -42 5 F.).
110
J-^f
FINGER ROLLS Follow standard roll recipe and when light
cut and shape into long pieces about the size and shape of a
finger. Place on well-greased pan, brush with melted fat or
egg-white. When light, bake in hot oven (400 -42 5 F.).
LUNCHEON ROLLS Follow standard roll recipe using 6 to
8 tablespoons of shortening. Add two well-beaten eggs after
one-half the flour has been added. Add remaining flour and
knead. When light shape into small biscuits. Place one inch
apart in well-greased pan. When double in bulk, brush with
egg-yolk diluted with milk and bake in hot oven (400-
425 F.).
PARKER HOUSE ROLLS ( POCKET-BOOK ROLLS) Follow
standard roll recipe. Four tablespoons each of sugar and short-
ening give excellent results. When light, roll dough one-
fourth inch thick. Cut with biscuit-cutter, brush each circle
with melted fat and crease through the center of each roll with
the dull edge of a knife. Fold each roll over double. Place
on well-greased pan one inch apart, brush with melted fat and
when very light bake in hot oven (400 -42 5 F.).
TWISTED ROLLS Follow standard roll recipe. When light,
break dough into small pieces and roll out with palm of hand
into rolls about seven inches long and one-half inch thick,
taking an end of each strip between the thumb and forefinger
of each hand, twist in opposite directions and bring the ends
together. Shape the two ends alike, place one-half inch apart
on well-greased pans, brush with melted fat or egg-yolk diluted
with milk. When light, bake in hot oven (400 -42 5 F.).
TEA BISCUIT Follow standard roll recipe. When dough is
light, roll and cut with biscuit-cutter. Place on well-greased
pans one-half inch apart. When light bake in hot oven (400-
425 F.).
ENGLISH MUFFINS Follow standard roll recipe, making a
very soft dough. Knead lightly until smooth and elastic. Work
down and when light again roll out with rolling-pin to about
one-fourth inch in thickness. Cut in circles. When light, bake
on ungreased hot griddle. As soon as they are brown on one
side, turn them over. When both sides are browned, bake
more slowly until finished. They may be browned on the
griddle and then put into the oven to finish baking.
A modification of this recipe may be made by adding only
enough flour to make a drop batter. Let it rise until light.
Drop batter into large, greased English muffin rings, arranged
YEAST BREADS III
on a greased baking-sheet. Bake in a hot oven (400 -42 5
F.) until nearly done. Turn rings upside down and complete
baking.
BREAD STICKS
1 cup milk 1 yeast cake dissolved in
4 tablespoons shortening l / 4 cup lukewarm water
1 1 /2 tablespoons sugar 1 egg
l /2 teaspoon salt 3 1 /2 cups flour
Scald the milk and cool it. Cream the shortening and sugar,
add the milk and salt. Add the dissolved yeast, the egg- white,
well beaten, and the flour. Knead and let it rise. Shape into
sticks about the size of a lead pencil. Put into a floured pan,
far apart; the sticks must not touch one another after they have
risen. When light, put into a hot oven (400 F.) then de-
crease the heat so that the sticks may become dry and crisp.
MONTE CARLO BREAD
2 cups scalded milk 2 yeast cakes softened in
l l /z teaspoons salt l /2 cup lukewarm water
1 cup sugar 9 cups flour (enough to make
1 cup shortening soft dough)
6 eggs 1 1 /2 cups currants
Add scalded milk to salt, sugar and shortening. When luke-
warm, add the yeast. Add one-half the flour and beat well.
Let rise until very light. Add slightly beaten eggs, currants
and remaining flour. Knead lightly, let rise and when light
place in well-oiled bread-pans. Let rise and when light bake in
moderate oven (400 to 375 F.). When the bread is a few;
days old, cut in thick slices and toast.
SWEDISH TEA RING
1 cup scalded milk 1 yeast cake softened in
%. teaspoon salt 54 CU P warm water
l /4 cup sugar 3 l /2 cups flour
6 tablespoons shortening 1 egg
*/s cup finely chopped nuts
Add the scalded milk to the salt, sugar and fat. When luke-
warm add the yeast. Add one-half the flour and beat well.
Let rise until very light. When light add the egg and the re-
maining flour and beat well. Let rise. Divide the dough into
112
f^f^^^r
two parts and shape each in a long, round piece and form two
circles, placing the circles on a baking-tin. Brush with white
of egg and sprinkle with finely chopped nuts. With a large
pair of scissors cut toward the center of the ring, but not quite
to the center, at intervals of two inches, placing the cut section
each time flat on the tin, giving it a petal-like appearance.
When light, bake in a hot oven (400 R).
RUSKS
1 cup scalded milk % teaspoon salt
l /2 to 1 yeast cake softened in 2 tablespoons sugar
54 cup warm water l /2 cup shortening
3 l /z to 4 cups flour (enough 1 egg
to make a soft dough)
Cool the milk, add the yeast and one-half the flour. When
light add salt, sugar, shortening, egg and remaining flour. Knead
lightly on well-floured board. Let rise until double in bulk,
roll out and cut with biscuit-cutter. Place on well-oiled pans,
let rise and bake in hot oven (400 F.).
RAISED BUCKWHEAT CAKES
2 cups boiling water 1 tablespoon molasses
l /2 cup corn-meal 1 teaspoon salt
l /2 yeast cake 2 cups buckwheat flour
54 cup warm water 1 teaspoon soda
54 cup hot milk
Pour the boiling water over the corn-meal and let stand until
it swells. Soften the yeast in the lukewarm water. After the
corn-meal is cool, add the molasses, salt, yeast and flour. Beat
thoroughly and set in a warm place to rise over night. It
should rise and fall again by the morning. Then add a teaspoon
of soda dissolved in the hot milk^ stir well^ and bake on a hot
griddle.
When the cakes are desired frequently (say, three times a
week), fresh yeast will not be required after the first making,
if a little more than a pint of the batter is reserved each time
and kept in a cool place to be used instead of the yeast. Mo-
lasses in buckwheat cakes helps to give them a good color in
frying. Without it, they may be gray and unattractive.
MAKE CRUMPETS OR MUFFINS
FOR YOUR ENGLISH COUSIN
AND HONEY SANDWICH BREAD
AS A TREAT FOR THE FAMILY
Wheat Flour Institute
Modern Science Institute
1
FOR GAY DAYS DO A
HONEY TWIST, SWEDISH
TEA RING OR PECAN
CARAMEL ROLLS
ROU.S
VABIATIOHS
YEAST BREADS 113
RAISED MUFFINS
1 cup scalded milk 1 yeast cake softened in
y 4 teaspoon salt % cup warm water
4 tablespoons sugar 3 1 /2 cups flour
2 tablespoons shortening 1 egg
Add the scalded milk to the salt, sugar and shortening. When
lukewarm, add the yeast and one and one-half cups flour.
Beat thoroughly. When very light, add the beaten egg and the
remaining flour. Mix well and let the dough rise until double
in bulk. Shape into portions small enough to fit into muffin-
tins. Brush the top with egg-white slightly beaten and sprinkle
with chopped nuts. Let rise in a well-oiled tin and bake in
a hot oven (400 -42 5 K).
COFFEE CAKE
1 cup scalded milk % cup sugar
1 cake yeast softened in % teaspoon salt
l /4 cup warm water 4 tablespoons shortening
2 cups flour (about) Sugar, cinnamon
1 egg
Cool the milk and add the yeast and one-half the flour. Beat
well and let rise until very light. Add the slightly beaten egg,
sugar, salt and melted fat, mix thoroughly and add remaining
flour. Let rise until almost double in bulk. Pour into shallow,
greased pans. When light, sprinkle thickly with sugar and
cinnamon. Bake twenty minutes in a hot oven (400 F.).
Serve hot. See page 476 for Upside-Down Cakes.
HOT CROSS BUNS
1 cup scalded milk 1 yeast cake softened in
% teaspoon salt 54 cup warm water
5/2 cup sugar 4*/z cups flour (about)
l /2 cup shortening 3 egg-yolks
Add scalded milk to salt, sugar and shortening. When luke-
warm, add yeast and one and one-half cups flour. Beat well
and let rise until very light. Add the egg-yolks and the re-
maining flour. Knead lightly and let rise until double in bulk.
Roll out dough to one inch thickness and cut into rounds. Set
these close together on a greased pan and let rise. Glaze the
surface of each bun with a little egg-white diluted with water.
114
f^^-r^r
With a sharp knife cut a cross on top of each bun. Bake about
twenty minutes in a hot oven (400 F.). Just before remov-
ing from the oven, brush with sugar and water. Fill the cross
with a plain frosting. A cup of raisins may be added to the
dough, if desired.
BRIOCHE
1 cup milk, scalded 2 yeast cakes
2^ cup butter % cup lukewarm water
2 teaspoons salt 4 eggs, well beaten
l/ 2 cup sugar Melted butter
4y 2 cups bread flour
Scald milk and add butter, salt and sugar; stir until butter
dissolves. When tepid, add yeast previously soaked in water,
and beaten eggs. Sift flour before measuring, beating well into
mixture. Allow to rise in warm place six hours. Refrigerate
over night or until ready to use. Form quickly into small balls
to !/3 size of muffin tins or glasses. Brush tops with melted
butter and let rise until double in bulk. Bake in hot oven
(400 F.) for 20 minutes.
FOR BRAIDS Dust a bread-board lightly with flour and roll
brioche dough gently into a sheet about one-half inch thick.
Cut the dough in strips one-half inch wide, leaving one end
uncut. Place on greased baking-sheet and brush the cut edges
with melted fat. Fold the strips over each other to form a
braid. Pinch both ends of braid together, flatten, and press
down on pan to prevent strips separating and losing shape.
To MAKE BOW-KNOTS Twist strips of brioche dough lightly
and tie in a bow-knot. Bring the ends down and press to the
pan.
FOR A DESSERT A very good simple dessert is made by bak-
ing this mixture in small shapes in muffin-tins and serving it
with chopped fruit and a fruit sauce poured over it.
RAISED DOUGHNUTS
1 cup scalded milk 1 yeast cake softened in
1 teaspoon salt Y 4 cup lukewarm water
3 / 4 cup sugar 3 1 / 2 to 4 cups flour
2 tablespoons shortening 1 egg
1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
Add scalded milk to salt, sugar and fat. When lukewarm,
add the softened yeast. Add one and one-half cups flour. Al-
(TEAST BREADS 115
low the sponge to stand in a warm place until it is so light that
it will fall at the slightest touch. Add the egg, nutmeg, and
remainder of the flour and knead. The dough should be softer
than bread dough. Cover and set in a warm place to rise. Toss
on a lightly floured board and roll until three-fourths inch
thick. Cut with a doughnut cutter and let rise. Fry in deep
fat (3 60 -3 70 F.) two to three minutes. When frying, put
the raised side of the doughnut down in the fat. The heat
will cause the top side to rise by the time the doughnut is ready
to turn.
SALT RISING BREAD
1 cup milk 1 tablespoon melted shorten-
2 tablespoons white corn-meal ing (may be omitted)
1 teaspoon salt Flour
1 tablespoon sugar
Scald the milk. Allow it to cool until it is lukewarm; then
add the sugar, corn-meal and salt. If shortening is used, add it.
Place in a fruit can or a heavy crock or pitcher and surround
by water at about 120 F. Water at this temperature is the hot-
test in which the hand can be held without inconvenience.
Approximately this temperature can be secured by mixing equal
parts of boiling water and cold (not icy) water. Allow the
mixture to stand for six or seven hours, or until it shows signs
of fermentation. When it is fermented sufficiently the gas can
be heard as it escapes. This leaven contains enough liquid for
one loaf. If more loaves are needed, add 1 cup water, 1 tea-
spoon salt, 1 tablespoon sugar, and 1 tablespoonful shortening
for each additional loaf to be made. Beat thoroughly and put
the sponge again at the temperature of about 120 F. When it
is very light, add more flour gradually until the dough is so stiff
that it can be kneaded without sticking to the hands or to the
board. Knead ten or fifteen minutes; put at once into the
pans; allow to rise until about two and one-half times its
original bulk, and bake. This bread is never so light as bread
raised with yeast. A loaf made with one cup of liquid therefore
Will come not quite up to the top of a pan of standard size.
HONEY TWIST
1 cup milk, scalded % cup sugar
1/4 cup butter 1 teaspoon salt
n6
-/
2 cakes compressed yeast 2 eggs
y 4 cup lukewarm water 5-6 cups flour
Pour hot milk over butter, sugar and salt. Crumble yeast
into lukewarm water to soften. Cool milk to lukewarm, add
yeast and well-beaten eggs. Beat in flour to make a soft dough,
then turn out on a floured board and knead until smooth. Form
into a ball and place in a greased bowl. Cover and let rise until
double in bulk. When light, shape into a long roll about one
inch in diameter. Coil the roll into a greased cake pan, begin-
ning at the outside edge and covering the bottom. Brush with
honey topping. Let rise until double in bulk and bake in mod-
erate oven (375 F.) 25 to 30 minutes.
Honey Topping:
1/4 cup butter 1 egg white
2/ cup confectioners' sugar 2 tablespoons honey, warmed
Cream all ingredients together and brush over Twist before
baking.
USES FOR STALE BREAD
Many ways to prepare stale bread for use in canapes are
found on page 159. Use the cookie cutter freely to produce
additional designs. For bread croustades see page 329. If a
lid is wanted, cut slice of stale bread to fit and toast, using an
olive or radish attached with a toothpick for a knob handle
(page 314).
Day-old rolls make excellent quick canapes. Cut off one end,
scoop out soft center and pack the shell tight with any good
canape paste: anchovy butter, sardine paste, deviled lobster
paste, Roquefort cheese, or any other favorite. Wrap in wax
paper and keep in refrigerator. When needed slice thin, arrange
carefully on a tin and brown lightly under the broiler. Garnish
with olive rings, radish slices or parsley.
QUICK BREADS
breads are those breads or bread-like mixtures which
are made up and baked at once. The essentials of quick
breads are a liquid and flour, When leavening agents are used
they act quickly and make the mixture light without a long
period of waiting.
Quick breads may be improved in flavor and texture by the
'addition of salt, sugar, eggs, shortening, etc., in various com-
binations and proportions. Shortening and eggs contribute
liquid to the mixture, which explains apparent discrepancies in
proportions given in various recipes for quick breads.
READY-TO-USE FLOURS Prepared flours which contain
leavening and other ingredients require only milk or water to
make excellent griddle cakes. The addition of eggs and shorten-
ing produces a batter suitable for muffins, waffles, and similar
quick breads.
Types of Quick Breads
There are four types of quick breads the pour batter, the
drop batter, the soft dough and the stiff dough; the latter is
seldom used.
THE POUR OR THIN BATTER will pour easily from a spoon or
a pitcher and can vary in degree of thinness. The breakfast
puff and the popover mixtures are examples of the thinnest
batter, while the griddle-cake and the waffle mixtures are ex-
amples of a thicker pour batter.
THE DROP, OR THICK, BATTER does not pour readily, but
drops in a soft moist mass from a spoon or must be shaken or
helped free from it. Muffins and fritters are examples of the
drop batter.
THE SOFT DOUGH can be handled more or less easily. Biscuits
and some cookie mixtures are examples of the soft dough.
THE STIFF DOUGH can be handled easily, and some force
must be used to roll it out. The Southern beaten biscuit and
noodles are examples of the stiff dough.
117
Approximate Proportions of Liquid to Flour in Making
Quick Breads
POUR OR THIN BATTER Use 1 cup liquid with 1 to 1 l /z cups flour
DROP OR THICK BATTER Use 1 cup liquid with 1 l /z to 2 cups flour
SOFT DOUGH Use 1 cup liquid with 2 to 2 l / 2 cups flour
STIFF DOUGH Use 1 cup liquid with 4 to 5 cups flour
Methods of Mixing Quick Breads
MUFFIN METHOD This method is usually used for the
batter type of quick bread. The dry ingredients are mixed and
sifted, then the liquid and egg (if used) are added, either
separately or combined. When well mixed, the melted shorten-
ing is beaten in.
CAKE METHOD This method is used for the richer muffins.
The shortening is creamed, the sugar stirred in, then the beaten
egg added. The rest of the dry ingredients are mixed and sifted
and added gradually to the first mixture alternately with the
liquid.
BISCUIT METHOD The dry ingredients are mixed and sifted
and the shortening cut in with knives or worked in with the
tips of the fingers, it being necessary to keep the fat hard until
the dough goes into the oven. If the shortening becomes warm,
or is melted, the result is not flaky and flakiness should be a
characteristic of biscuits.
POPOVER MIXTURES should be thoroughly beaten with an
egg-beater for several minutes, in order to introduce as much
air as possible and to break the liquid present into tiny droplets.
The mixture, being very thin, will not hold air very long, so
it should be poured immediately into the baking containers,
which may be of tin, glass, aluminum, earthenware, iron or
steel. If metal containers are used, they should be hot when
the batter is poured into them, so that the baking may begin
as soon as the pans are put into the oven. A hot oven is needed
at first and until the batter has risen to full height, then the
temperature should be reduced in order to prevent burning.
FOR GRIDDLE-CAKES AND WAFFLES the griddles and irons
should stand perfectly level; then if the batter is poured
steadily from a pitcher or from the tip of a large spoon, it will
spread itself evenly.
MUFFIN MIXTURES AND SIMILAR BATTERS should be stirred
QUICK BREADS 1 19
and beaten only enough to combine ingredients thoroughly and
produce smoothness of texture. The muffins should be baked
at once.
SOFT DOUGHS should be handled as little as possible and
kneaded only enough to make a smooth surface, free from dry
flour. Much kneading develops a stretchiness in the dough
which detracts from flakiness. The dough should be rolled or
patted out to one-half inch or more in thickness if thick, soft
biscuits are desired, or rolled out to one-quarter inch in thick-
ness if thin, crusty biscuits are desired. The biscuits should
be baked at once.
Baking Temperatures For Quick Breads
All quick breads should be baked in a moderate to hot oven
(350-460 F.).
POPOVERS
1 1 / 4 cups flour 1 teaspoon sugar
% teaspoon salt 1 cup milk
2 eggs
Mix the flour, salt and sugar. Gradually add the milk and
the well-beaten eggs. Beat thoroughly. Have ready some small
ramekins or muffin-pans, well greased and piping hot. Fill
them about half full of the batter and bake in a hot oven
(450 F.) for twenty minutes. Lower to 350 F. and bake
fifteen to twenty minutes more.
SWEET MILK GRIDDLE-CAKES
3 cups flour 1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons salt 2 cups milk
l l /2 tablespoons baking- 1 egg
powder 1 tablespoon melted fat
Mix and sift the dry ingredients and add the milk, gradually,
beating constantly to make a smooth batter. Add the beaten
egg and the fat and bake on a hot griddle. This makes a thick
bready cake. If a thinner cake is desired, use more milk.
SOUR MILK GRIDDLE-CAKES
Use recipe for sweet-milk griddle-cakes, substituting thick
sour milk for sweet and using one teaspoon of soda instead of
the baking-powder. If thicker than liked, use water to thin.
120
BREAD CRUMB GRIDDLE-CAKES
1 1 /2 cups stale bread-crumbs l /z cup flour
1 Yz cups scalded milk l / 2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons shortening 4 teaspoons baking-powder
2 eggs
Soak the crumbs in the milk and melted fat until they are
soft. Add the eggs, well beaten, and the dry ingredients,
mixed and sifted. Bake on a hot, greased griddle. The cakes
are very tender and should be turned carefully.
BAKING POWDER BUCKWHEAT CAKES
1 1 /2 cups buckwheat flour ^2 teaspoon salt
l /2 cup wheat flour 1 tablespoon shortening
5 teaspoons baking-powder l l /2 cups milk
1 tablespoon molasses
Sift dry ingredients together. Add melted fat to milk and
molasses, then add slowly to dry ingredients. Beat well and
bake until brown on a slightly greased, hot griddle.
RICE GRIDDLE-CAKES
1 cup boiled rice \ l / 2 cups flour
2 cups milk 1 tablespoon shortening
l /2 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons baking-powder
1 tablespoon sugar 1 egg
Put the cooked rice to soak with one cup of milk, and in the
morning add the salt, sugar, shortening, flour and baking-
powder. Beat the mixture well, then add the well-beaten egg
and the other cup of milk. Bake on a hot greased griddle.
CORN-MEAL GRIDDLE-CAKES
1 cup corn-meal 1 1 / 2 cups milk
1 tablespoon sugar 2 cups flour
1 teaspoon salt 4 teaspoons baking-powder
2 cups boiling water 2 eggs
Put the meal, sugar, and salt into a mixing-bowl, and pour
over them the boiling water. Let stand until the meal swells,
then add the cold milk. When the mixture is quite cool, stir
QUICK BREADS 121
in the flour and baking-powder, mixing well, and lastly add
the eggs, well beaten. Bake on a hot griddle. The cakes should
be small, well browned and thoroughly cooked; they need a
little longer cooking than wheat griddle-cakes.
FLANNEL CAKES
1 tablespoon shortening 1 teaspoon salt
2 cups flour 4 teaspoons baking-powder
2 cups milk 2 eggs
Rub the shortening into the flour, and add the salt and bak-
ing-powder. Beat the yolks of the eggs light, add the milk
to them and beat well. Add the liquid to the flour mixture,
stirring until quite smooth. Beat the whites light, add them
to the batter, and bake on a hot greased griddle.
FRENCH OR JELLY PANCAKES
3 eggs 1 cup milk
1 teaspoon sugar l /z cup flour
l /2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon shortening
Separate the yolks and whites of the eggs. To the beaten
yolks add the sugar, salt and one-half cup of milk. Stir in
the sifted flour, the other half cup of milk, the melted shorten-
ing, then fold in the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs. When
eggs are high, two eggs and a half teaspoon of baking-powder
may be used.
Bake on a hot griddle, making the cakes slightly larger than
usual. Spread each cake with tart fruit jelly and roll while hot*
Place all on a platter, side by side, with the lapped edge of the
roll touching the bottom of the platter to keep the cake from
spreading. Dredge with sugar and, if desired, burn lines on the
sugared surface with a red hot wire toaster. This gives an
attractive appearance and a slight flavor of burnt sugar.
APPLE FLAPJACKS
1 tablespoon shortening 1 teaspoon baking-powder
1 tablespoon sugar 1 cup apples, chopped fine
2 eggs Cinnamon
l l / 2 cups flour Milk
Cream the shortening and sugar, add the beaten eggs, the
flour sifted with the baking-powder and cinnamon, and the
122
*vx^-sy
chopped apples. Then gradually add milk to make a medium
batter. Bake on a griddle as for ordinary pancakes and serve
in an overlapping row around a platter of pork chops, or serve
separately with roast pork, either hot or cold. Cooked apples
or a dry apple sauce may be used with batter in the same way.
POTATO PANCAKES
2 cups grated potato Salt
1 egg Pepper
2 tablespoons flour Onion-juice
Milk
Scrub and pare the potatoes and grate into cold water to
keep them from discoloring. Drain well and add the egg, well-
beaten, the flour, and sufficient milk to make a stiff batter.
Season with salt, pepper and onion-juice. Cook in a frying-
pan with hot fat to the depth of about one-half inch. A large
spoonful of batter makes a good-sized cake. Cook until well
browned and crisp and serve as a vegetable with meat and
gravy. Especially good with a stew.
WAFFLES
1 Yz cups flour 1 cup milk
l /2 teaspoon salt 2 eggs
3 teaspoons baking-powder 1 tablespoon shortening
Mix the flour, salt and baking-powder, add the milk grad-
ually, then the eggs, beaten until very light, and the melted
shortening. Be sure that both sides of the waffle-iron are hot
and that it is well greased. After baking each waffle, let the
iron heat a minute before putting in batter for the next.
CREAM WAFFLES
2 eggs 1 tablespoon corn-meal
2 cups sour cream 1 teaspoon soda
2 cups flour l /z teaspoon salt
Beat whites and yolks of the eggs separately. Mix with the
beaten yolks the cream, flour, corn-meal, soda and salt, and
finally the egg-whites, beaten until stiff. Bake at once on a
hot waffle-iron.
APPLE-FILLED FLAPJACKS OR
WAFFLES HOT OFF THE GRID-
DLE WILL GET EVERYBODY UP
PROMPTLY
JCE SEVERAL KINDS
COFFEE CAKE AT
HE SAME TIME, SUCH
AS THESE STREUSEL, .')
CHERRY AND FROST- IP
ED. POPOVER BATTER
SHOULD HAVE A
WARMHEARTED RE-
EPTION BY SIZZLING
HOT BUTTERED PANS
OR CLASS CUPS
Wheat Flour Institute
QUICK BREADS 123
BUTTERMILK WAFFLES
1 cup corn-meal 1 cup wheat flour
1 1 /2 cups water % teaspoon soda
1 teaspoon salt l /2 cup sweet milk
1 tablespoon shortening Buttermilk
2 eggs
Cook the meal, water, salt, and shortening together for ten
minutes, stirring constantly. Beat the yolks and whites of
the eggs separately until very light. When the mush is cool,
add the yolks. Sift together the flour and soda? and add to
the mush, alternating with the sweet milk. Fold in the egg-
whites, and finally add buttermilk to make a pour batter.
Bake in a hot waffle-iron. This mixture is improved if it stands
for a short time before the waffles are baked.
BAKING POWDER MUFFINS
2 cups flour 1 cup milk
l /2 teaspoon salt 1 egg
1 tablespoon sugar 2 tablespoons melted short-
4 teaspoons baking-powder ening
Mix and sift the flour, salt, sugar and baking-powder. Add
the milk gradually, the well-beaten egg and melted fat. Pour
into well-greased muffin-tins, filling the tins two-thirds full.
Bake in a hot oven (400 -42 5 F.) from twenty to twenty-
five minutes.
GRAHAM MUFFINS
2 cups graham flour % teaspoon soda
2 tablespoons sugar \ l / 2 cups sour milk
1/2 teaspoon salt l / 2 tablespoon shortening
1 egg 1 teaspoon baking powder
Sift the flour with the other dry ingredients, and turn the
bran back into it. Add the milk gradually^ the well-beaten
egg, and the melted shortening. Fill well-greased muffin-tins
about two-thirds full and bake in a hot oven (400-42S F.)
from twenty to twenty-five minutes.
124
CORN-MEAL MUFFINS
1 cup corn-meal 1 cup milk
1 cup flour 1 egg
l /2 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons shortening
4 teaspoons baking-powder
Mix and sift the corn-meal, flour, salt and baking-powder.
Add the milk gradually, then the well-beaten egg, and melted
fat. Bake in well-greased muffin-pans in a hot oven (400-
425 F.).
JELLY CORN MUFFINS
Use the recipe for corn-meal muffins. Fill greased muffin-
tins one-fourth full, put a teaspoon of jelly on the top of the
batter in each cup, cover the jelly with more batter and bake
in a hot oven (400 -42 5 F.).
CORN MUFFINS WITH DATES
1 cup white corn-meal 1 cup flour
2 tablespoons brown sugar 4 teaspoons baking-powder
1 teaspoon salt 1 egg
2 tablespoons shortening l /z cup chopped dates
154 cups milk
Mix the corn-meal, sugar, salt and melted shortening. Scald
the milk, pour it over the mixture, and let it stand until the
meal swells. When cool, add the flour sifted with the baking-
powder, the well-beaten egg and the dates. Beat thoroughly,
and bake in greased muffin-tins in a hot oven (400 -42 5 F.).
CORN-MEAL ROLLS
1 % cups bread flour % cup milk
l /4 cup corn-meal 1 tablespoon sugar
3 teaspoons baking-powder 2 tablespoons shortening
1 teaspoon salt 1 egg
Mix and sift dry ingredients and cut in the fat. Beat the
egg and add it to the milk. Combine the liquid with the dry
ingredients. Knead slightly, roll out and shape as Parker House
rolls. Bake in a hot oven (400 -42 5 F.) for twenty to twenty-
five minutes.
QUICK BREADS 125
RICE MUFFINS
l /4 cup sugar 1 cup milk
% cup boiled rice 5 teaspoons baking-powder
1 egg 2 l /4 cups flour
2 tablespoons shortening 1 teaspoon salt
Mix sugar, boiled rice, egg, melted shortening and milk. Sift
baking-powder, salt, and flour together, and add. Bake in
greased muffin-pans in a hot oven (400 -42 5 F.) for thirty
minutes.
RAISIN BRAN MUFFINS
1 cup bran 1 tablespoon melted short-
*/4 cup flour ening
4 teaspoons baking-powder l / 2 cup seeded raisins
l / 2 teaspoon salt l / 2 cup milk
1 1 /2 tablespoons molasses 1 egg
Mix and sift the flour, baking-powder and salt, stir in the
bran, add the molasses, the melted fat, raisins and the milk
gradually. Then add the well-beaten egg and bake in muffin-
tins in a hot oven (400 -42 5 F.) for thirty minutes.
BAKING POWDER BISCUIT
2 cups flour 2 tablespoons shortening
4 teaspoons baking-powder % CU P liquid ( a ll milk or
1 teaspoon salt half milk and half water)
Mix dry ingredients and sift twice. Work in shortening
with tips of the fingers, or cut in with two knives. Add the
liquid gradually, mixing with a knife to a soft dough. Owing
to differences in flours, it is not always possible to determine the
exact amount of liquid. Toss on a floured board, pat and
roll lightly to one-half inch in thickness. Shape with a biscuit-
cutter. Bake in hot oven (450 -460 F.) twelve to fifteen
minutes.
EMERGENCY BISCUIT Use the recipe for baking-powder
biscuit, using more liquid to make the dough soft enough to
drop from the spoon. The amount of the liquid in this recipe^
in most cases, will be just half the amount of flour (two cups
of flour to one cup liquid). Drop the biscuit on to a well-
greased pan^ or into greased muffin-tins. Bake in a hot oven
(450-460 F.).
*$JB
QUICK NUT BREAD, DATE-BRAN BREAD,
HONEY SANDWICH BREAD AND
PRUNE-RYE BREAD, NOT TO MENTION
THE EVER POPULAR GINGERBREAD AND
CORN BREADS, WILL FIND THEIR
PLACES AT YOUR TABLE
WHILE MARMALADE ESCORTS SCO
ON THEIR SHORT LIFE, SALLY LUN
IS TURNED OUT OF ITS PAN TO FACE
A HUNGRY WORLD
r-Wheat Flour Institute
126
./>-/
BAKING POWDER BISCUIT PIE CRUST This is sometimes used
to top a meat pie or a deep dish fruit pie where a rich crust is
not desired. Follow directions for baking-powder biscuit, roll-
ing the crust to about one-fourth inch thick, or drop it as for
emergency biscuit, leaving a small opening in the middle for
the escape of steam.
PECAN ROLLS Spread biscuit dough with shortening, brown
sugar and pecans. Roll and cut into 1-inch slices. Bake in skillet,
muffin tins or on cookie sheet with sugar-nut mixture instead of
fruit as for Upside-Down Cakes. See page 476.
DATE BISCUITS
Add one-half cup dates, stoned and quartered, to the recipe
for baking-powder biscuits.
SODA BISCUIT
2 cups flour 1 teaspoon salt
l /2 teaspoon soda 2 tablespoons shortening
1 cup thick sour milk
Follow directions for baking-powder biscuit. The dough
should be stiffer than for baking-powder biscuit.
SCONES
2 cups flour 4 tablespoons shortening
4 teaspoons baking-powder % cup milk
1 teaspoon salt
Mix and sift the flour, baking-powder and salt, and chop in
the shortening. Add sufficient milk to make a soft dough.
Toss on a floured board and roll into a sheet one-half inch thick.
Shape with a small round cookie-cutter. Bake on a griddle,
turning so that both sides are cooked to a delicate brown. Lay
a napkin on a plate, arrange the scones on it and fold the corners
of the napkin over them. Split and butter while hot.
SALLY LUNN
l /2 cup shortening 2 cups flour
l /4 cup sugar 1 cup milk
4 teaspoons baking-powder 1 egg
Cream the shortening with the sugar. Mix and sift together
the flour and baking-powder and add to the creamed mixture,
QUICK BREADS 127
alternating with the milk. Add the beaten egg and bake in a
loaf or in muffin-pans, in a moderate oven (3 50 -400 F.).
When fresh huckleberries are in season, one cup stirred in
just before baking will be an agreeable addition.
SOUTHERN BEATEN BISCUIT
2 cups flour y$ cup shortening
1 teaspoon salt Milk and water
Sift the flour with the salt. With the tips of fingers work
in shortening and moisten to a stiff dough with equal quantities
of milk and water mixed. Place on floured board and beat
with rolling-pin for at least one-half hour, folding the dough
every few minutes. Roll to one-third inch thick, shape with
a biscuit-cutter about two inches in diameter, prick with fork
and place on greased baking-sheet or inverted dripping-pan.
Bake twenty minutes in hot oven (400 -42 5 F.). They
should be light, of even grain, and should crack at the edges
like crackers.
SPOON CORN BREAD
2 cups water 1 tablespoon shortening
1 cup white corn-meal 1 teaspoon salt
1 cup milk 2 eggs
Mix the water and corn-meal and bring slowly to the boil-
ing-point. Cook five minutes. Add the milk, shortening, salt
and well-beaten eggs. Beat thoroughly and bake in a well-
greased pan for twenty-five minutes at 400 F. Serve from the
same dish with a spoon.
SOUTHERN SPOON BREAD
l /4 cup of fat and cracklings l /2 teaspoon salt
from pork, beef, or chicken 1 cup corn-meal
fat 2 eggs
3 cups boiling water
Add fat and cracklings to the water, and when boiling
sprinkle in the salt and corn-meal, stirring constantly. Cook
in a double boiler one hour, cool, and add the well-beaten eggs.
Turn into a greased baking-dish and bake in a moderate oven
(350 F.) three-fourths of an hour.
128
NORTHERN JOHNNY CAKE
2 cups corn-meal 1 l /z teaspoons salt
2 cups sour milk 2 eggs
2 tablespoons shortening 1 teaspoon soda
2 tablespoons sugar, white or 1 tablespoon cold water
brown
Cook together the meal, milk, shortening, sugar and salt in
a double boiler for about twenty minutes. Allow the mixture
to cool, then add the well-beaten eggs and the soda dissolved
in the water. Bake in a shallow iron or granite pan for about
thirty minutes at 400 F.
In case there is not time to cook and cool the meal, the fol-
lowing method of mixing may be used. Mix and sift together
the meal, sugar, salt and soda, add the sour milk gradually, then
the well-beaten eggs and the melted fat. Bread made by this
method does not have as good texture as that made by the first
method.
NEW ENGLAND CORN CAKE
1 cup corn- meal 1 egg
1 cup white flour 1 cup milk
3 teaspoons baking-powder 2 tablespoons melted short -
2 tablespoons sirup ening
Mix and sift the dry ingredients. Beat the egg light, add
the milk, shortening and sirup. Stir into the dry mixture and
beat well. Pour into a well-greased, shallow pan and bake
at 400 F. twenty-five to thirty minutes.
SOUTHERN CORN BREAD
1 cup sour milk l /z teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon soda dissolved in l l / 2 cups corn-meal
1 teaspoon water White of one egg beaten stiff
1 egg-yolk and added last
Mix in the order given and bake in muffin-tins or in a shallow
pan in a moderate to hot oven (400 -42 5 F.) for twenty
minutes.
To be real Southern corn-bread, this should be made of white
corn-meal made from the whole grain.
QUICK BREADS 129
HONEY SANDWICH BREAD
l /2 cup bran 1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup graham flour 1 cup milk
1 cup white flour l /$ cup honey
4 teaspoons baking-powder l /2 cup chopped walnuts
1 egg
Mix and sift the dry ingredients together. Add the nuts,
mix, and add milk, honey and beaten egg. Beat thoroughly.
Pour into a greased oblong bread -pan and bake one hour at
400 F.
BOSTON BROWN BREAD
1 cup corn-meal 1 teaspoon salt
1 cup rye flour % CU P molasses
1 cup graham flour 2 cups sour milk or
% tablespoon soda 1% cups sweet milk
Mix and sift the dry ingredients. Mix the molasses and milk
and add to the dry ingredients. Beat thoroughly and turn into
well-greased molds, filling each mold about two-thirds full.
Cover and steam three hours. Remove the covers and bake the
bread (375 F.) long enough to dry it off.
RAISIN BREAD
2 cups corn-meal 1 1 /2 cups sour milk
1 cup Graham flour 1 egg
1 teaspoon salt l /2 cup molasses
l /2 teaspoon soda 3 tablespoons baking-powder
1 cup raisins
Mix and sift the dry ingredients, add the raisins and toss
lightly together. Add the other ingredients. Mix thoroughly
and steam for two and three-quarters hours.
WHOLE WHEAT SANDWICH
4 cups whole-wheat flour 8 teaspoons baking-powder
l /$ cup sugar % cup seedless raisins
1 egg 1/2 cup chopped nuts
2 cups milk 2 teaspoons salt
Mix the dry ingredients, add the nuts and raisins, add the
milk and egg and beat thoroughly. Turn into a greased pan.
Let the dough rise for fifteen minutes. Bake one hour in a
moderate oven (3SO-400 F.).
130
DATE BRAN BREAD
2 cups bran % cup dates cut in small
2 cups white flour pieces
1 teaspoon salt l l /2 cups milk
3 tablespoons sugar 1 egg
4 teaspoons baking-powder 2 tablespoons melted short-
ening
Sift the dry ingredients together, add the dates, toss lightly
together and add the milk. Mix well and add beaten egg and
melted fat. Turn into a greased pan or mold and cover with
oiled paper. Steam for three hours.
QUICK NUT BREAD
2 cups bread flour 1 whole egg
l / 2 cup sugar Yolk 1 egg
4 teaspoons baking-powder 1 cup milk
1 teaspoon salt l /2 cup finely chopped walnut
5 tablespoons shortening or other meats
Mix and sift flour, sugar, baking-powder and salt. Work in
shortening as for biscuit; then add egg and egg-yolk well-
beaten, milk and chopped nut meats. Beat thoroughly and turn
into a buttered bread pan. Let stand twenty minutes; then
bake at 400 F. forty to fifty minutes. This is a delicious bread
for sandwiches.
PRUNE RYE BREAD
2 cups sifted rye flour % cup sugar
2 cups sifted wheat flour 1 egg, slightly beaten
6 teaspoons baking powder 1%. cups milk
1^/2 teaspoons salt 1 cup cooked prunes,
chopped
Sift together dry ingredients. Combine egg and milk, and
add to flour mixture, stirring only until well mixed; stir in
prunes. Turn into greased loaf pans and bake in moderate oven
(350 F.) about 1 hour. Yield: 2 loaves, 6x3 inches, or 1
sandwich loaf, 11x3x3 inches.
SANDWICHES
AN encyclopedia published about 1900 defines a sandwich
as "an article of food consisting of a slice of meat, fish,
fowl or other food placed between two slices of bread, which
may be plain or buttered." No such simple definition could
be given today, for from these simple beginnings the sandwich
has developed in all directions, and has adapted itself to such
varied needs that it ranges from a fragile morsel served with
afternoon tea to an elaborate combination of toast, meat, let-
tuce, tomato, sauce, and any number of other things which
combine to make it a complete and satisfying meal.
Even the requirement of two slices of bread with something
between them is no longer in force. "Open-faced" sandwiches
offer almost unlimited opportunity for variety in both cold
and hot meals. In these the slices of bread or toast are laid
side by side. Sometimes, usually in hot meat sandwiches, both
slices are covered with beef or chicken, or whatever gives the
characteristic flavor, and the whole is covered with gravy.
Often, especially in cold sandwiches, one slice holds its chicken
or tomato or crab meat, while its companion is covered with
cole slaw and dill pickles or a lettuce leaf holding a spoonful
of mayonnaise. The possibilities are endless, and the sug-
gestions given here can be combined and adapted to almost any
requirement where a sandwich can be called into service.
Serving Sandwiches
Garnishes of fine parsley, cress, celery plumes, stuffed or ripe
olives, or slices of lemon or pickle are effective on the serving-
dish. Barberries and leaves, fresh nasturtium leaves and
blossoms, or something to indicate the kind of sandwich may
be used as a garnish.
Making and Keeping Sandwiches
The bread for flat sandwiches should be a day old because
it can be cut more easily than fresh bread. For rolled sand-
wiches fresh bread should be used. Bread baked in special
tins which provide slices that are perfect squares or circles is
131
132
*xys^*x
economical when the crusts are to be cut off, but any loaf of
comparatively fine grain may be used.
The Bread
ALL SORTS OF BREADS are made into sandwiches white,
brown, rye, graham, whole-wheat, raisin, date, nut, etc. Some-
times two or more kinds are used together. Long narrow rolls
are attractive when sliced lengthwise, buttered and filled. For
picnics, where a substantial filling is desirable, the crumb of the
roll may be removed and the hollow filled with sandwich ma-
terial. Thin salt wafers and crackers are often used instead of
bread for paste sandwiches.
FOR FANCY SANDWICHES, to be used for tea or receptions?
or as an appetizer at the beginning of the meal, or to be served
with the salad, the bread should be cut into slices as thin as
possible and the crusts should be removed. Use a sharp knife,
so that there will be no ragged edges.
PICNIC AND LUNCH-BOX SANDWICHES are cut somewhat
thicker than fancy sandwiches, and the crusts are generally
left on.
Butter and Filling
The filling and butter for sandwiches should be increased in
proportion to the thickness of the slice of bread.
PREPARING THE BUTTER The butter should be thoroughly
creamed before it is used or it will not spread evenly over the
bread. To cream butter, place it in a warm bowl and mash
and beat it until it is soft. It will then spread well even on
fresh bread. Sandwich butters are often made by creaming
one cup of butter with one-half cup of cream. One-half cup
of butter, creamed, will spread a two-pound sandwich loaf
cutting forty to forty-five slices.
RELISHES such as mustard, salt, grated horseradish, chopped
parsley, chives and curry may be added to creamed butter for
use in sandwiches of meat, tomato, game, chicken $ fish, cheese
or eggs.
> SPREADING BUTTER AND FILLING A poorly buttered sand-
wich is very unpalatable. Spread the butter to the very edges
of the slices^ on the sides that are to be put together, being
careful, however, not to let the butter spread over the edges
So that it is untidy. If the slices need not be fitted together,
it is often easier to spread the bread before cutting it from the
SANDWICHES 133
loaf. A pliable knife or small spatula is a help in spreading
butter or filling.
Spread the filling on the buttered surface of one slice only
of each sandwich. Have the filling come to the edge of the
sandwich, if possible.
When mayonnaise is used, not combined with a filling, as in
mayonnaise and lettuce sandwiches, it is more evenly distributed
if it is spread on one of the slices of bread and the lettuce leaf
placed upon it.
Shaping the Sandwiches
Sandwiches may be cut with a knife into triangles, oblongs
and similar outlines, or shaped with cutters into hearts, circles,
crescents or any preferred design. When sandwiches are shaped
with these fancy cutters, the bread should be shaped before it
is spread, to avoid waste of butter and filling. Care must be
taken afterward, however? not to spoil the shape while spread-
ing. Heart,; club, spade and diamond shapes are popular for
card parties. Heart shapes are attractive for valentine and an-
nouncement parties and for showers. Strips, triangles, circles,
crescents and rolled and folded sandwiches are used for teas.
ROLLED SANDWICHES Cut the crusts from a fresh loaf of
bread (or if a stale loaf of bread is used, cut off the crusts and
wrap for an hour in a cloth wrung from cold water) . Spread
a thin layer of butter on one end of the loaf and then cut from
it as thin a slice as possible. If a filling is used, spread it on the
buttered slice. Roll this slice with the spread side inward and
lay it on a napkin, with the edge of the slice downward. When
all the sandwiches have been prepared, draw the napkin firmly
around the rolls and put them in a cold place until needed. The
butter will harden and hold the rolls together.
Time Savers in Sandwich Making
In making sandwiches in quantity, route the work so that
there will be no waste motions. Have a large enough space
for (1) cutting the bread; (2) spreading the slices with butter
and filling; (3) shaping and (4) wrapping the sandwiches.
Keeping Sandwiches
Sandwiches are best prepared just before serving, especially
if the filling is of a kind that will become limp or soak into the
134
w^v
bread. When it is necessary to make sandwiches several hours
before they are to be used, they may be wrapped in paraffin
paper or a slightly dampened cloth or placed in a stone jar.
Filling for Meat and Salad Sandwiches
When sliced meat is used, a sandwich is easier to eat and
generally more palatable if the meat is cut as thin as a knife-
blade with several tiny slices instead of one thick one in each
sandwich. Fancy butters are excellent with sliced meat.
All kinds of potted and minced meats are used between slices
of bread with or without mayonnaise. Salted meat and fish
fillings are improved by lemon-juice, chopped pickles or capers.
Pastes of fresh fish and meat require high seasoning.
All forms of meat may be used with lettuce or cress, between
two slices of buttered bread, with or without salad dressing.
The slices should be pressed together and the crust trimmed, if
desired. Lettuce may be used in large, crisp leaves, or in "rib-
bons," to make the sandwich easier to eat. Where mayonnaise
dressing is used, the sandwiches should be made at the last
moment, and served promptly. Tomatoes and cucumbers with
lettuce and mayonnaise make delicious salad sandwiches.
Filling for Tea Sandwiches
The tea sandwich is seldom made of meat, though such things
as minced chicken, lobster, or crab meat, and sardines beaten
to a paste, are sometimes used for it. The bread is cut very
thin and the fillings may be a bit of lettuce spread with mayon-
naise dressing, chopped olives, nasturtiums, watercress and
similar morsels. An attractive sandwich is made from diminu-
tive Vienna rolls split not quite through and spread with vege-
table filling. Another tea sandwich is made by spreading jelly
or preserves between two salt crackers. If the crackers are
spread with a thin film of butter and crisped quickly in a hot
oven, this form of sandwich is really worth eating. Almond
sandwiches of all varieties are delicious for the tea-table.
Filling for Sweet Sandwiches
Preserves of all kinds, drained from their sirup, marmalade^
jam, jelly, crystallized and candied fruits are used for sweet
sandwiches with graham or salt wafers, as well as with bread or
sponge cake. The crystallized fruits may be sliced thin and
SANDWICHES 135
dipped in cream, chopped fine, moistened in orange-juice, and
spread between bread or lady-fingers.
Scraped or grated maple sugar mixed with chopped nuts
is used with brown bread. Ice-cream is cut in slices and put
between wafers or layers of sponge cake.
Tiny tea biscuits make an excellent foundation for sweet
sandwiches. They are split and buttered while hot and filled
with honey and almonds, cream cheese and jam, or chopped
nuts and marmalade. They are best served warm.
Filling for Nut Sandwiches
Pignolias or pine nuts, butternuts, walnuts, hickory nuts,
almonds and pecans may all be put through a meat-chopper,
mixed, a very little salt added, and spread over thin, buttered
slices of brown or white bread. Or, to the ground nuts may be
added a little salt and paprika and either salad oil or creamed
butter to make a smooth paste.
The salty taste of peanut butter is good with raisin bread.
Peanuts may be rubbed to a paste with creamed butter and a
layer of chopped preserved ginger added.
Butternuts, walnuts, hickory nuts, almonds, or pecans may
be used in equal parts, ground fine, with cream cheese moistened
with sweet thick cream and seasoned with salt. Grated Ameri-
can cheese may be used instead of cream cheese and melted
butter instead of cream.
PETITE MARMITE
Yeast bouillon, on the market as cubes or paste, makes an
excellent spread for sandwiches, hors d'oeuvres and appetizers.
It may be used alone or mixed with butter or other pastes. Its
strong flavor makes it especially desirable with milder flavored
fillings.
PREPARED BUTTERS FOR SANDWICHES
ANCHOVY BUTTER
Yolks of 4 hard-cooked eggs l/ 2 cup butter
4 boned anchovies Paprika
Rub the yolks of the eggs to a smooth paste with the an-
chovies and butter and add paprika to taste.
HAM BUTTER
l /2 cup cooked ham Yolks of 2 hard-cooked eggs
5/2 cup butter Pepper
Grind the ham and pound smooth with the butter and the
yolks of the eggs and season with pepper.
SHRIMP BUTTER
1 cup cooked shrimps 1 cup butter
Salt About l / 4 cup tarragon vine-
% teaspoon cayenne gar or lemon- juice
Pound the shrimps in a mortar with salt and cayenne. Add
the butter and moisten the mixture with the tarragon vinegar
or lemon -juice.
Sandwiches with Nut Fillings
PEANUT BUTTER, FIG AND RAISIN SANDWICHES
54 cup figs l /z teaspoon salt
54 cup raisins l /2 cup peanut butter
2 tablespoons light corn-sirup 2 tablespoons lemon-juice
Wash figs and raisins and put through a food-chopper. Add
salt, peanut butter, lemon- juice and corn-sirup, and mix well.
Use between thin, buttered slices of bread.
PEANUT BUTTER AND ORANGE MARMALADE
SANDWICHES
l /2 cup peanut butter l /z cup orange marmalade
54 cup cream
Mix peanut butter with cream or milk until it is smooth
and light in color. Spread generously on thin slices of bread,
and add a layer of orange marmalade. The marmalade may be
mixed with the peanut butter, if preferred.
PEANUT BUTTER AND BANANA SANDWICHES
l /2 cup peanut butter l /2 cup banana pulp or sliced
54 cup cream or hot water bananas
Lemon-juice
Mix the peanut butter with the cream until it is smooth and
light in color, then combine with the banana pulp and a little
SANDWICHES 137
lemon-juice and use between thin, buttered slices of bread.
Or place slices of banana over layer of peanut butter on bread*
PEANUT BUTTER AND PICKLE SANDWICHES
*/2 cup peanut butter % cup cream or hot water
l / 2 cup chopped pickle
Cream peanut butter and water together and add chopped
pickle. Use between thin, buttered slices of bread.
PEANUT BUTTER AND ONION SANDWICHES
1 cup peanut butter 1 small Bermuda or
l /4 cup mayonnaise Spanish onion
Beat peanut butter, add mayonnaise and spread sandwiches.
Slice onion in very thin slices and put a layer of these over
mixture on bread.
ALMOND SANDWICHES
No. 1
1% cups almonds 3 tablespoons lemon-juice
l / 2 teaspoon salt
Chop the almonds fine, mix with the salt and lemon- juice
and use with thin slices of bread, buttered. Cut into small
ovals, pressing a blanched almond in the center of each sand-
wich.
No. 2
Use the same quantities as for No. 1. Toast the almonds a
light brown and grate them. Form into a paste with the lemon-
juice^ add the salt and spread over the bread.
No. 3
l /3 cup almonds % cup shredded celery
l /4 cup mayonnaise
Chop the almonds fine and mix them with the celery. Spread
between thin, buttered slices of bread. Sandwiches filled with
this mixture are an excellent accompaniment to salads or cold
meats. When served with meats the celery and almonds may
be moistened with a few spoonfuls of mayonnaise.
MARRON SANDWICHES
Grind marrons glaces (candied French chestnuts) fine,
spread on rounds of buttered bread and cover with rounds of
bread from which the centers have been cut. Fill the centers
with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, and decorate with
blanched and chopped pistachio nuts or tiny candied violets.
Sandwiches with Cheese or Egg Fillings
CHEESE SANDWICHES
No. 1
Place thin slices of American, Swiss or any preferred mild or
snappy cheese between two slices of buttered bread. Add a
dash of mustard if desired.
No. 2
Grate sapsago and Parmesan cheese and sprinkle thickly
over a slice of buttered bread. Then dust with a mild red
pepper and add another slice of buttered bread.
No. 3
Yolks of 3, hard-cooked eggs Paprika Salt
2 tablespoons salad oil 1 tablespoon vinegar
Mustard 1 cup grated cheese
Rub smooth the yolks of the hard-cooked eggs. Add the
oil, stirring it in very slowly with a fork, and mix thoroughly
with a little mustard, paprika, salt and the vinegar. Add the
grated cheese and use between thin buttered slices of white or
brown bread.
No. 4
l /z pound American full cream % cup cream
cheese, grated l / 2 teaspoon dry mustard
2 tablespoons melted butter Paprika Salt
Mix all the ingredients thoroughly and use between thin
buttered slices of bread. This filling will keep indefinitely in
closed jars in the refrigerator.
SANDWICHES 139
COTTAGE CHEESE SANDWICHES
1% cups cottage cheese l /2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons thick cream
Cut slices of brown bread one-half inch thick, not removing
the crusts. Rub the cheese to a smooth paste, and add slowly,
beating all the while, the melted butter, the salt and the thick
cream. Spread each slice of bread thickly with this mixture.
Cover with a very thin slice of white bread and on top of this
put a thin layer of the cheese mixture. Cover with a slice of
brown bread and trim into shape.
CHEESE AND ANCHOVY SANDWICHES
1 cup cream cheese or % cup anchovy paste
10 tablespoons grated Par- Pinch of mustard (may be
mesan cheese omitted)
Mix the anchovy paste with the cheese and add mustard if
desired. Spread between slices of buttered bread or toast.
CHEESE AND BANANA SANDWICHES
No. 1
1 cup cream cheese 2 bananas
l /4 cup cream % cup mayonnaise
Place ice-cold bananas, sliced and covered with mayonnaise,
between buttered slices of white bread spread with cream
cheese softened with the cream.
No. 2
Make a pulp of the bananas and mix with the softened cheese.
HARLEQUIN SANDWICHES WITH CHEESE
FILLING
Cut half-inch slices of both brown and white bread. Spread
each slice with butter and cream cheese and place four slices
together, alternating the brown bread with the white. Press
together and slice through the four layers, cutting them into as
thin slices as possible without allowing the slices to break.
When neatly done, the effect of the alternate layers of dark
and light is very good.
FOR THE PIRATE'S TREASURE
CHEST RETURN THIN SAND-
WICHES TO THE LOAF FROM
WHICH THEY CAME OR SLICE
YOUR LOAF LATERALLY, FILL
WITH VARIOUS PASTES AND
FROST WITH CREAM CHEESE
TO YOUR TASTE
CHOICE OF
.INGS AND BREADS
ATTRACTIVE SAND-
WICHES ARE A MATfl|
OF DESIGN
:
FILL CREVICES AND SPREAD SUR-
FACE OF THIS LOAF WITH CHEESE
AND BUTTER PASTE. THEN TOAST
TO GOLDEN BROWN
I [
140
CHEESE AND ORANGE MARMALADE
SANDWICHES
l /2 cup cream cheese l /z cup orange marmalade
J4 cup cream
Spread half the slices of buttered bread with the cheese,
softened with the cream, and seasoned with salt if desired,
and spread the other slices with orange marmalade. Press the
slices together.
CHEESE COMBINATION SANDWICHES
1 cup cream cheese or cottage % cup chopped olives or
cheese l / 4 cup chopped nuts or
l / 4 cup mayonnaise or l / 4 cup chopped pimientos
Mix the cheese with the mayonnaise, chopped olives, nuts, or
pimientos, and use between very thin slices of brown or rye
bread, lightly buttered.
CHEESE AND ONION SANDWICHES
1 cup cream cheese Lettuce leaves
l /4 cup chopped Bermuda % cup mayonnaise
onion
Mix the cheese with the onion. Use with mayonnaise and a
crisp lettuce leaf between slices of buttered bread.
ROQUEFORT CHEESE SANDWICHES
l / 2 cup Roquefort cheese 2 tablespoons butter
Salad oil Whole-wheat bread
To the cheese, add creamed butter and enough salad oil to
make a paste. Use a thin layer between buttered slices of
whole-wheat bread.
CHEESE MAYONNAISE SANDWICHES
2 hard-cooked egg-yolks l / 2 teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon melted butter l /z teaspoon mustard
l /$ pound cheese 1 tablespoon vinegar
l /2 teaspoon salt
Rub the egg-yolks and butter together until they make a
smooth paste, then add the grated cheese, salt, pepper and
SANDWICHES 141
mustard, mixing thoroughly. Stir in the vinegar and spread
between buttered slices of bread, crackers or pieces of oat-cake.
RUSSIAN SANDWICHES
l /2 cup cream cheese % cup chopped pimiento
1/4 cup chopped olives % cup mayonnaise
Lettuce leaves Boston brown bread
Spread the cream cheese on thin slices of Boston brown bread.
Spread an equal number of buttered slices with chopped olives
and pimientos mixed with mayonnaise dressing. Press together
in pairs with a crisp lettuce leaf between.
EGG SANDWICHES
No. 1
Hard-cooked eggs Salt Paprika
Pepper Capers or pickles if desired
Slice the eggs and lay the slices between thin buttered slices
of bread. Season to taste with salt, pepper and paprika and
add a layer of chopped capers or pickles if desired. These are
good for lunches for traveling or picnics.
No. 2
1 cup chopped, hard-cooked Chopped capers or pickles
egg l / 4 cup mayonnaise
Mix the chopped egg with the mayonnaise and add salt,
pepper and chopped pickles or capers to taste. Use between
thin buttered slices of bread.
Sandwiches with Meat and Poultry Fillings
CHICKEN SANDWICHES
No. 1
1 cup cooked chicken me?t, l / 4 cup mayonnaise
white or dark
Chop the chicken meat very fine, mix with the mayonnaise,
and spread thin slices of bread, buttered or unbuttered, with
the paste.
142
No. 2
2 egg-yolks 1 cup minced, cooked chicken
1 teaspoon melted butter Salt Pepper
1 teaspoon lemon-juice 1 teaspoon stock
Cook the eggs thirty to forty-five minutes, in water just be-
low boiling-point, take out the yolks, and mash as fine as pos-
sible. Add to these the melted butter and lemon- juice, the
minced chicken, salt, pepper and stock. Mix all well together.
A paste will be the result and with this very delicate sandwiches
may be made.
No. 3
1 cup cooked white meat of 6 tablespoons thick cream
chicken l /z teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon gelatin Dash of paprika
1 tablespoon cold water
Chop the chicken very fine and pound to a paste, adding salt
and a dash of red pepper. Soak the gelatin in the cold water
for fifteen minutes, and add the thick cream. Dissolve the
gelatin over boiling water, beat it slowly into the chicken
and add salt and paprika. Set aside to cool, smoothing into an
even mass. When cool, divide into squares, cut these squares
into very thin slices and arrange on thin buttered slices of bread.
Cut into fancy shapes, removing the crusts.
No. 4
3 /4 cup cooked chicken meat Y 4 cup chopped almonds
l / 4 cup chopped stuffed olives % cup mayonnaise
Cut the chicken meat into small bits and add the almonds and
olives. Moisten with mayonnaise and spread on thin, buttered
slices of bread.
CHICKEN, HAM AND CELERY SANDWICHES
1 cup cooked chicken meat 54 CU P mayonnaise
Yz cup celery l / 4 cup cooked ham
1 tablespoon green pepper
Mince the chicken, ham, celery and green peppers. Mix
with the mayonnaise and spread on buttered bread.
SANDWICHES 143
CHICKEN AND DILL PICKLE SANDWICHES
Between buttered slices of white bread, use thin slices of
white meat of roasted chicken and thin slices of dill pickle.
Cut into triangles and serve on lettuce leaves.
CHICKEN LIVER SANDWICHES
1 cup cooked chicken livers 1 tablespoon lemon-juice
2 tablespoons chopped crisp 2 tablespoons sliced truffles
bacon 4 drops tabasco sauce
Salt Pepper 2 stalks celery, minced
Mash the chicken livers, add the chopped bacon, salt, pepper,
tabasco sauce, lemon-juice and sliced truffles. Use between
slices of bread spread with creamed butter mixed with minced
celery.
CHICKEN AND TONGUE SANDWICHES
1 pint minced cold boiled Black pepper
chicken and tongue, mixed 1 teaspoon Worcestershire
l /2 cup melted butter sauce
1 egg-yolk
To cold boiled tongue and chicken add the melted butter,
the yolk of the egg, beaten, a little black pepper, and the
Worcestershire sauce. Spread this over buttered bread.
PATE DE FOIE GRAS SANDWICHES
No. 1
Moisten pate de foie gras with cream to make a thin paste.
Spread on lettuce leaves on white buttered bread and sprinkle
with French dressing.
No. 2
1 tablespoon pate de foie gras 2 tablespoons butter
l /4 cup boiled chestnuts
Mash the butter and chestnuts to a paste, add the pate de foie
gras and mix well. Spread very thin on slices of buttered bread.
144
BEEF SANDWICHES
1 1 /4 cups cold roast beef l /z teaspoon Worcestershire
1 teaspoon salt sauce
l /2 tablespoon tomato catchup 1 tablespoon melted butter
To minced cold roast beef add the salt, tomato catchup,
Worcestershire sauce and melted butter. Spread on buttered
bread, cover with a second slice, and cut into fancy shapes.
HAM SANDWICHES
No. 1
Slice boiled ham very thin and use several tiny slices between
thin slices of buttered bread, adding a little mustard if desired.
No. 2
1 cup ham l /z teaspoon mustard mixed
1 tablespoon salad oil with l / 4 teaspoon water to
1 tablespoon lemon-juice a smooth paste
Pepper
Chop the ham fine and season with salad oil, lemon-juice,
a dash of pepper and the mustard. Spread between thin, but-
tered slices of bread.
No. 3
1 hard-cooked egg 1 cup boiled ham
1 small spiced cucumber % CU P mayonnaise
pickle
Chop the hard-cooked egg, cucumber pickle and boiled ham
and mix well. Moisten with the mayonnaise, season to taste,
and spread between thin slices of buttered bread.
HAM AND ANCHOVY SANDWICHES
\ l /4 cups chopped ham Few drops tabasco sauce
1 teaspoon onion-juice Anchovy paste
Paprika Creamed butter
Add to the chopped meat, onion-juice, paprika, a few drops
of tabasco sauce and a little anchovy paste mixed with creamed
butter. Use between thin, buttered slices of bread.
SANDWICHES 145
HAM AND TOMATO SANDWICHES
1 cup minced ham % cup butter
1 teaspoon parsley Garlic or onion-juice
Cayenne pepper 2 sliced tomatoes
Pinch of mace Mayonnaise
Few drops lemon- juice
To minced ham, add parsley, cayenne, mace, lemon-juice and
creamed butter. Rub the bowl with garlic or add a little onion-
juice. Spread rounds of buttered bread with the mixture and
between each two rounds place a thin slice of ripe tomato spread
with thick mayonnaise.
LIVER AND BACON SANDWICHES
l /z cup chopped bacon l /z cup mashed liver
l /4 cup cream Salt and pepper
Mix chopped bacon and mashed liver, season with pepper
and salt and mix with cream. Spread between slices of but-
tered bread. Decorate the plate with a border of lemon slices
and hard-cooked eggs cut into halves lengthwise, with a sprig
of cress or parsley on each half egg.
MUTTON OR LAMB SANDWICHES
1 1 / 4 cups cold mutton or lamb 1 teaspoon chopped mint
1 teaspoon salt Dash of pepper
1 tablespoon capers 1 tablespoon lemon-juice
Chop cold mutton or lamb very fine, add salt, capers, chopped
mint, pepper and lemon- juice. Use between thin buttered
slices of whole-wheat bread. Serve on a bed of lettuce leaves.
TONGUE SANDWICHES
l /z pound cooked tongue Salt
l /4 cup mayonnaise or prepared Pepper
mustard Cayenne
Chop the tongue and pound to a paste, or cut into thin
slices and use, with the mayonnaise and seasonings, between thin
buttered slices of bread.
146
VEAL SANDWICHES
l l /4 cups chopped veal 1 tablespoon lemon-juice
1 teaspoon salt Mustard Pepper
Chop the veal, and season with salt, lemon-juice and a little
pepper and mustard. Spread mixture between thin buttered
slices of bread.
Sandwiches with Fish Fillings
Anchovies, sardines, or freshly boiled fish may be used for
sandwiches. These are better pounded to a paste, with a few
drops of lemon- juice added during the pounding. Fresh white
fish, like cod, may be seasoned with salt and pepper, moistened
with a little mayonnaise or even a plain white sauce, and then
put between two layers of buttered bread.
FLAKED FISH SANDWICHES
1 cup flaked fish 54 CU P thick mayonnaise
2 tablespoons chopped celery 1 tablespoon Worcestershire
2 tablespoons chopped cucum- sauce or catchup, if desired
ber pickles, either sweet or Salt
sour Pepper
Delicious and appetizing sandwich fillings are made by mix-
ing these ingredients. Season to taste with salt and pepper
and spread between thin buttered slices of bread.
ANCHOVY AND OLIVE SANDWICHES
l /2 cup mashed anchovies or l /z cup olives
anchovy paste % cup cream or butter
Chop the olives and mix with the anchovy paste. Add the
butter or cream and use between thin buttered slices of bread.
CAVIAR SANDWICHES
l /2 cup caviar 2 teaspoons lemon-juice
Flavor caviar with lemon-juice and spread thin on lightly
buttered bread. A small quantity of chopped pickled beets may
be added if desired.
SANDWICHES 147
CRAB OR LOBSTER SANDWICHES
l l /4 cups crab or lobster l / 4 cup French dressing or
meat mayonnaise
Butter thin slices of whole-wheat bread. Cover half of them
thickly with flaked boiled crab meat or diced lobster meat and
add a teaspoon of French dressing or mayonnaise. Cover with
the other buttered slices of bread and cut into fancy shapes.
OYSTER SANDWICHES
Large oysters Pepper
Salt Tabasco sauce
Horseradish Lemon-juice
Worcestershire sauce Cress
Fry the oysters and place two or three between two buttered
slices of brown or white bread. Sprinkle with pepper, salt,
horseradish, lemon-juice, tabasco, Worcestershire or water cress,
according to taste.
SALMON SANDWICHES
1 cup cold boiled or canned % cup mayonnaise
salmon
Mix the salmon with the mayonnaise until a fine even mix-
ture is obtained. Remove the soft crumb from French rolls and
fill the space thus made with the salmon mixture.
SARDINE SANDWICHES
12 large sardines % cup mayonnaise or a little
1 hard-cooked egg Worcestershire sauce, if de-
Pepper desired
Lemon-juice Salt
Shrimp butter, i desired Creamed butter, if desired
Drain the oil from the fish, remove the skins and pound the
fish to a paste with a little salt, pepper and lemon- juice. Use
between thin buttered slices of bread. Shrimp butter may be
mixed with the sardine paste and the flavor may be varied by
the addition of Worcestershire sauce or mayonnaise or both.
148
^xvyvy
The mashed yolk of the hard-cooked egg and three parts of
creamed butter to one of the sardine mixture makes a de-
licious sandwich filling.
SHAD ROE SANDWICHES
1 shad roe 3 drops tabasco sauce
Yolks of 3 hard-cooked eggs 1 teaspoon anchovy paste
Butter Salt
l /2 teaspoon paprika
Cook the roe and mash it together with the yolks of the
hard-cooked eggs. Add an equal amount of creamed butter,
the paprika, tabasco sauce, anchovy paste, and salt to taste.
Spread between thin buttered slices of bread. Slices of lemon,
peeled and salted, may be put between rounds of buttered bread
and passed with the shad roe sandwiches.
Sandwiches with Vegetable Fillings
CUCUMBER SANDWICHES
No. 1
Soak thin slices of cucumber for one hour in good white
vinegar seasoned with salt and pepper. Add one teaspoon of
chopped chives, if desired. Drain the slices and use them
between thin, buttered slices of brown or white bread. Each
sandwich may be the size of a cucumber slice, if daintiness is
desired.
No. 2
Chop a peeled cucumber and mix with mayonnaise. Use
between thin buttered slices of brown or white bread.
ONION SANDWICHES
Pour salted water over thin slices of onion (or chopped
onion) and let it stand for a time to extract the very strong
flavor. Then drain the onion and use between buttered slices
of bread, seasoning with pepper, salt, and a little mustard if
desired.
SANDWICHES 149
PIMIENTO AND ANCHOVY SANDWICHES
% cup pimiento 1 tablespoon lemon-juice
Butter % cup anchovy paste
l /2 teaspoon tabasco sauce Salt
Rub pimientos to a paste with creamed butter and season
with tabasco sauce, lemon- juice, anchovy paste and salt. Spread
between thin buttered slices of whole-wheat bread.
RADISH AND HAM SANDWICHES
5/2 cup potted ham l / 2 cup sliced radishes
l /4 to l /2 cup mayonnaise
Peel and slice radishes, dip them in rich, thick mayonnaise^
and lay on thin slices of bread covered with potted ham.
TOMATO AND LETTUCE SANDWICHES
4 tomatoes Lettuce leaves l / 4 to l / 2 cup mayonnaise
Spread thin slices of buttered bread with mayonnaise, cover
with a crisp lettuce leaf and spread with peeled, chilled toma-
toes sliced thin. Cover with a second slice of bread, and cut
into desired shape. Crisp bacon is a pleasing addition.
WATERCRESS SANDWICHES
1 1 /4 cups cress 2 tablespoons lemon-juice or
Paprika y 4 cup mayonnaise
Sprinkle cress with salt, paprika, and lemon-juice, or mix
with mayonnaise. Lay between slices of brown bread.
THE PIE CANAPE
An attractive canape plate may be made by cutting twice
horizontally, through a round loaf of rye bread. The slice
should be % inch thick and free of crust. Spread with soft-
ened butter and mayonnaise dressing. Mark in circles as guides
with increasingly larger articles a small cookie cutter at
center, a large cutter, a bowl, a small plate, and decorate in
150
N^X^^X
concentric rings. Fill the center with caviar, piling chopped
parsley or egg yellow at very center. Surround with circle of
cream cheese tinted with vegetable coloring pressed from a
pastry bag. Continue these rings of appetizer paste and
colored cream cheese in accordance with your taste or color
scheme. Use red salmon paste, sardellen paste, anchovy paste,
shrimp paste, etc. When finished, use a very sharp knife to
cut like a pie but do not separate. Serve cold within a few
hours.
SANDWICH LOAF OR CAKE
Slice an uncut loaf of day-old white sandwich bread hori-
zontally, getting 3 or 4 long slices % inch thick. Spread
each slice with creamed butter and stiff mayonnaise, then each
with a different chopped salad or sandwich mixture. Chicken,
shrimp, salmon or tongue salad; deviled egg, sardine, anchovy,
liver or cheese pastes may be used. Stack and cover the top
and sides with soft cream cheese piled like frosting or whipped
cream. Dust with paprika or chopped parsley. Chill and serve
cold within 7 to 10 hours. Photograph on page 139A.
Miscellaneous Sandwiches and Sandwich Fillings
1. Raisins worked into cream cheese.
2. Chopped raisins, figs, dates or prunes, mixed with chopped
nut-meats and moistened with mayonnaise dressing or lemon-
juice.
3. The well- whipped white of an egg mixed with a cup each
of chopped raisins and nut-meats, seasoned with a little salt.
4. Peanut butter moistened with salad dressing and mixed
with raisins, dates, figs or bananas.
5. Equal parts olives, peanut butter, celery, mixed with a
little salad dressing.
6. Peanut butter mixed with chopped dill, sweet or sour
pickles.
7. Cream cheese and chopped stuffed olives.
8. Chopped stuffed olives and chopped nuts, moistened with
salad dressing.
9. Cream cheese and crushed pineapple between very thin
slices of bread.
SANDWICHES 151
10. Tunafish mixed with parsley, lemon-juice, seasoning and
a bit of onion.
11. Cream cheese and chopped nuts.
12. Ground boiled ham and chopped pickles or chopped
peanuts.
13. Cottage cheese and pickles, olives, nuts or pimientos.
14. Currant jam with pounded walnut meats and creamed
butter. Pass with cream cheese. Preserved currants may be
substituted in this combination.
15. Boston brown bread with cream cheese or mayonnaise
mixed with chopped nuts and raisins.
16. Rounds of brown bread spread with chopped olives,
minced lettuce and water cress, tarragon, paprika, parsley and
chives mixed with mayonnaise.
17. Pimientos, cucumbers and onion or chives, minced,
mixed with mayonnaise and spread on buttered entire-wheat
bread.
18. Green pepper, pimiento and olives with mayonnaise.
19. Boston brown bread with minced corned beef seasoned
with mustard and rubbed to a paste.
20. Cream cheese used with chopped parsley, pimientos and
mayonnaise, chopped nuts, sliced sugared bananas, crushed
pineapple, chopped or sliced olives, shredded sliced apples. The
cheese may be rubbed with butter or the creamed butter may
be spread on the bread.
HOT SANDWICHES
The hot sandwich is now frequently used as a supper or
luncheon dish with a salad. It is sometimes served as a break-
fast dish and even a dessert may now be served in sandwich
form, as, for instance, slices of ice-cream between slices of
sponge cake.
There are several types of hot sandwiches. Some are made
from plain bread and served with hot sauce; in others the
framework of the sandwich is toast, sauted slices of bread,
French-fried toast or fresh slices of bread baked with the sand-
wich-filling; and in still others hot baking-powder biscuit or
crisp toasted crackers are used.
Then besides the regulation kind of sandwich a filling be-
tween two slices of breadstuff there is the open-faced kind,
in which the top slice is left off and a garnish of cut parsley,
152
v^/v^
pickle, olive or grated cheese is used instead of the covering
slice.
And, lastly, there is a third and novel type of sandwich in
which the outer structure is of meat. This is cut in thin slices,
dipped in fritter batter and fried in fat, and a filling of vege-
tables is placed between the slices.
GRILLED CHEESE SANDWICHES
Between two slices of medium thick bread, lay slices of cheese
cut about one-eighth inch thick. Place in oven until cheese
begins to melt. Then toast on both sides and serve hot. Or
mash a soft cheddar cheese with cream. Spread this as a filling
and toast the sandwich.
CHICKEN CLUB SANDWICHES
(For each sandwich)
3 slices toast Crisped bacon
Mayonnaise Tomato slices or
Ys to l / 4 breast of chicken onion slices
Lettuce Pickle or olives
For each sandwich remove the crust from three slices of
toasted bread, buttered while hot. Spread the under slice with
a thin layer of mayonnaise dressing. On this lay two small
white lettuce leaves, allowing them to project beyond the edge
of the toast. On the lettuce lay thin slices of breast of chicken
spread with mayonnaise. Cover with a slice of toast, spread
with mayonnaise and cover with slices of crisp bacon. A slice
of tomato or onion may be placed over the bacon. Place the
third slice of toast on this and garnish with pickles or olives.
Serve while the toast and bacon are hot.
GRILLED TONGUE AND EGG SANDWICHES
1 cup chopped tongue 1 cup milk
1 egg 2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 teaspoon onion- juice dressing
Mix the tongue with the onion- juice and the mayonnaise and
spread it on thin slices of unbuttered bread. Press the slices
together and cut in two diagonally. Beat the egg, add the milk
and dip the sandwiches in this mixture. Brown them in a small
amount of butter, first on one side and then on the other.
Garnish with parsley and serve at once on a hot platter.
SANDWICHES 153
COUNTRY CLUB SANDWICHES
Butter slices of toast. On each slice lay thin cuts of cooked
sausage. Cover with a well-seasoned tomato sauce and sprinkle
with grated cheese. Lay a strip of bacon on each sandwich and
bake in a hot oven until the bacon is crisp.
TURKISH SANDWICHES
1 cup cooked chicken cut in % CU P cream
small pieces 1 teaspoon onion-juice
1 tablespoon butter *4 CU P walnut meats
l /2 cup stock Paprika Salt
1 tablespoon flour Thin slices of toasted bread
Make a sauce of the stock, cream, flour, and butter. Add the
other ingredients, and heat thoroughly. Place on slices of toast.
Brush with melted butter and garnish with thin rings cut from
stuffed olives. Serve immediately on a hot platter.
HAM SWEET SANDWICHES
For each sandwich allow two medium-thin slices of cold
boiled ham. Lay the ham in French dressing for a few minutes.
Drain and dip in a plain fritter batter. Fry in deep fat and
drain on soft paper. Place one of the slices of ham on a hot
plate, add lettuce and cover with another slice of the fried
ham. Pour orange-raisin sauce over the sandwich and serve
at once.
HOT BISCUIT SANDWICH
Make plain baking-powder biscuits. Bake until the crust is
crisp on both top and bottom. Break do not cut the biscuits
apart and butter the halves. On one side place a thick slice
of tomato, then a layer of mayonnaise dressing and then one of
minced bacon. Cover with the other half of the biscuit, press
lightly together and serve at once.
SAVORY SANDWICHES
Spread slices of whole-wheat or graham toast with butter.
Over these place slices of crisply cooked bacon. Sprinkle
generously with chopped pickle and horseradish. Serve with
sliced tomatoes.
154
SARDINE AND TOAST SANDWICHES
1 cup sardines Mayonnaise
Lettuce Lemon-juice
Onion-juice Graham bread
Sardines that have been prepared in oil are to be preferred
for these sandwiches. Drain the sardines, tear them in pieces,
add a few drops of lemon-juice, onion-juice and enough mayon-
naise to moisten. Toast medium-thin slices of graham bread
and spread with butter creamed with a few drops of lemon-
juice. Cover with lettuce and add the sardines and another
slice of toast. Serve with a garnish of lemon.
CHEESE AND TOMATO SANDWICHES
6 slices bread 6 slices bacon
6 slices tomato Grated cheese
Butter the slices of bread. On each slice, place a slice of to-
mato, cover with grated cheese, and add a slice of bacon. Toast
under the flame of a broiler until the bacon is crisp.
HAM OR BACON AND CHEESE SANDWICHES
Butter slices of toasted bread. Cover with a thin slice of
boiled ham or bacon, spread with mustard, and cover with a
layer of thinly sliced or grated cheese. Place the slices in the
oven until the cheese is melted. Garnish with minced parsley
and serve at once.
PEANUT AND CHILI SANDWICHES
Mix peanut butter with chili sauce to form a paste. Spread
slices of hot brown bread or toasted graham bread with butter,
add the mixture and put the slices together with crisp lettuce
leaves between. Garnish with slices of dill pickle.
DEVILED TOMATO SANDWICHES
6 tomatoes Pepper
1 cup bread crumbs 1 cup ground boiled ham
4 slices bacon 1 tablespoon French mustard
Salt 6 slices bread
Cut a slice from the stem end of each tomato. Sprinkle with
salt, pepper and bits of bacon. Bake until the tomatoes are
SANDWICHES 155
tender. Serve on slices of hot buttered toast spread with the
ground ham mixed with the mustard.
Suggestions for Breakfast Sandwiches
Poached egg on toast is an open-faced sandwich. Rolls split,
toasted, and buttered, with broiled tender bacon placed between
them, or bacon between crisply toasted slices of well buttered
corn bread are other forms of breakfast sandwiches.
Creamed oysters on toast, scrambled eggs on buttered toast
spread with anchovy paste, creamed codfish between two slices
of buttered toast are all in the breakfast category of sandwiches.
To make a variation of French toast that takes it out of the
sweet and puts it into the meat class, spread buttered slices of
bread with deviled ham, put the slices together in twos, dip them
into a mixture of egg and milk in proportion of two eggs to one
cup of milk, and then saute the slices in butter until they are
nicely brown on both sides.
Old fashioned country sausage may be cut in thin rounds,
fried a delicate brown and served between hot, savory pancakes
of the same size as the sausage slices.
Suggestions for Hot Sandwiches
Hot sandwiches should be substantial and filling without
losing the chief characteristic of all sandwiches ease in han-
dling. For this reason rolls and buns are often more satisfactory
than sliced bread or toast.
Broiled Hamburger steaks on round rolls are always popular.
The meat mixture may be varied by rolling a stuffed olive in
each; by adding strips of bacon crosswise after the first turning,
or by a slice of Bermuda onion on both sides. Chopped pickles,
carrots, celery or radishes may be added to the meat before
broiling.
1. Broiled pineapple with sliced hot chicken, hot turkey or
hot duck, on whole wheat bread. 2. Broiled ham with a slice o
pineapple, either fresh or canned, served on white toast. 3 . Sliced
roast lamb with grilled fresh pineapple on toasted English muf-
fins. 4. Sliced hard-cooked egg with hot anchovy sauce on Bos-
ton brown bread. 5. Hot roast veal with anchovy sauce and
grilled tomato on rye roll. 6. Grilled tomato with Cheddar cheese
on rye toast. 7. Hot smoked tongue with fried apples on toasted
English muffins. 8. Hot corned beef with grilled sweet potato
and endive on finger rolls.
TOAST
BREAD for toast should be cut in slices from one -eighth
to one-half inch thick and toasted over a clear fire or in
a gas or electric toaster until both sides are an even, rich golden
brown. Unless a toaster with an automatic timing and turning
device is used, the slices should be turned two or three times
to avoid warping.
CRISP DRY TOAST
Cut the crust from stale bread. Slice the bread as thin as
a wafer, dry it on a pan lined with paper, in the oven, leaving
the door open. When it is entirely dry, close the oven door
and brown slightly.
TOAST MELBA
Cut bread in one-eighth-inch slices and toast until it is crisp.
BUTTERED TOAST
Toast bread until crisp and a rich brown on both sides. But-
ter while hot and serve at once.
WATER TOAST
Toast bread until crisp and brown. Pour into a soup-plate
one cup boiling water and one teaspoon salt. Dip the toast
into this water and remove at once. Spread lightly with butter
and serve immediately.
MILK TOAST
No. 1
Toast bread, butter it well, sprinkle with salt and pour scalded
milk over it.
No. 2
6 slices buttered toast 2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour 2 cups milk
Salt
Make a white sauce of the flour, butter, milk and salt and
pour it over the buttered toast.
156
TOAST 157
CREAM TOAST
6 slices buttered toast 1 cup scalded cream
1 tablespoon flour Salt
1 cup scalded milk 1 egg
Make a white sauce of the milk, cream, flour and salt. Pour
this hot liquid over the beaten egg. Pour over the toast and
serve immediately.
TOMATO CREAM TOAST
6 slices buttered toast 2 tablespoons butter
1 cup milk Salt
2 tablespoons flour 1 cup tomato, fresh or
% teaspoon soda canned
Make a white sauce of the milk, flour, butter and salt. Cook
and strain the tomato and add the soda. Stir the hot tomato
into the white sauce and pour immediately over the toast.
FRIED TOAST OR FRENCH TOAST
12 slices bread l /2 inch thick l /2 teaspoon salt
3 eggs 2 cups milk
Beat the eggs, add the milk and salt. Dip slices of bread into
the mixture and saute in a little hot fat until a delicate brown
on both sides. Serve hot. Sprinkle with powdered sugar or
serve maple sirup with the toast.
CINNAMON TOAST
Spread hot toast with butter and sprinkle generously with a
mixture of sugar and cinnamon. Place on the top shelf of the
oven or under the broiler just long enough to melt the sugar.
TOASTED LOAF AND CORNUCOPIA
Remove all but the bottom crust from loaf of bread. Cut
through center, lengthwise, then into equal sections crosswise.
Brush with melted butter and brown in 375 oven.
CORNUCOPIA Remove crusts from sliced bread, lay thick
cheese strip diagonally, fold bread to opposite corners, fasten
with toothpick, brush with melted butter and brown in mod-
erate oven (350 F.). Remove toothpicks to serve.
TOAST YOUR WHOLE LOAF IN
THIS FASHION AND USE THE
CRUST FOR AN ENTREE TREAS-
URE CHEST A
Wheat Flour Institute
>:;..;,,:,,;
USE THE SAME SANDWICH DE-
SIGNS FOR TOAST, OR ROIL 4.
^RNUCOPIA WITH A CHEE||,
NCUE FOR THE FESBW
CASION
Wheat Flour Institute
APPETIZERS
OTRICT convention in England and America at one time
^ decreed that the formal dinner should begin with soup,
but that custom is no longer binding even in the most formal
household. Other dishes to introduce the meal have crept in
and because of their savory qualities have found ready and
general acceptance. Appetizers, they are usually called. Some-
times they are referred to as relishes or as hors d'ceuvres, because
they are often a glorified edition of the old side dish now given
a conspicuous place as a separate course by itself.
Characteristics of the Appetizer
The appetizer must have distinct, piquant flavor and appetite-
whetting qualities. Pickled and salted foods, acids, pepper and
paprika play a conspicuous part in their manufacture. Raw
oysters and clams, grapefruit, melons and fruit cocktails,
canapes and small sandwiches spread with pastes of sardines,
anchovies and caviar, lobster and crabmeat, pate de foie gras,
cheese, olives and other mixtures of high flavor, deviled eggs,
small succulent salads, may all be included without prejudice
in the list of appetizers. In parts of the United States, the
dinner is always begun with the salad as the appetizer.
Serving the Appetizer
The appetizer should always be served in small portions be-
cause the purpose of this course is to whet but not to satisfy
the appetite.
At formal dinners and luncheons, the same kind of appetizer
is generally served to all the guests, but at more informal meals
the hostess may give her guests an opportunity to choose their
own appetizers. In that case a number of portions of various
kinds are arranged on a regulation hors d'oeuvre tray or on a
chop plate or small platter which is passed to each guest.
Each portion must be arranged so that it may be lifted from
the tray by the guest and transferred to his plate without
trouble. Suitable service silver usually a tablespoon and large
must be laid on each tray.
158
APPETIZERS 159
The following combination will serve as a suggestion for the
arrangement of a tray:
1. A crab salad. 2. An onion and green pepper salad. 3. Three or
four olives on a small lettuce leaf. 4. A sandwich made of cress and
brown bread and butter. 5. An oblong or square of aspic jelly on a
lettuce leaf with an anchovy or sardine on the jelly. 6. Half of a,
deviled egg on a lettuce leaf or in a bed of cress. 7. Cream cheese balls
rolled in chopped chipped beef. 8. Cream cheese balls rolled in caviar.
9. Large stuffed olives filled with sharp cheese, wrapped in bacon and
broiled until bacon is crisp. 10. Center celery stalks stuffed with Roque-
fort cheese paste or anchovy paste. 11. Small sweet pickles rolled in
cream cheese then in a strip of smoked salmon, fastened with toothpick.
12. Rolled anchovies in broiled mushrooms. 13- Caviar in broiled
mushrooms. 14. Tiny meat balls in broiled mushrooms. 15. Chicken
liver balls rolled in chopped chipped beef.
Shell Fish
Oysters or clams on the half-shell, oyster, clam, lobster or
crab cocktails may be used as the appetizer. The recipes are
given in the chapter on "Fish."
Canapes
PREPARED BREAD FOR ALL CANAPES
Canapes are made from stale white bread, cut in quarter-
inch slices and then shaped with a cutter into circles two and
one-half or three inches in diameter or cut into squares, strips,
triangles or other fancy shapes. These portions of bread may
then be fried in deep fat and drained on absorbent paper, or
sauted in just enough fat to keep them from burning, or toasted
or set in the oven until they turn a delicate brown. When
finished they should be nicely browned on both sides. They are
then ready to be covered with the mixture preferred.
ANCHOVY CANAPES
6 portions prepared bread 3 teaspoons lemon-juice
3 tablespoons anchovy paste 2 hard-cooked eggs
Whole anchovies for garnish (may be omitted)
Anchovy paste, which comes in tubes, jars or bottles, may
be utilized, or whole anchovies may be reduced to a smooth
i6o
*v^v^v^
paste with a wooden spoon. Season with lemon- juice and
spread the paste on the prepared pieces of bread. Split anchovy
lengthwise and lay the halves diagonally across the canape, mark-
ing the point where they cross by a little pyramid of riced yolk
of hard-cooked eggs. Petal-shaped pieces of the hard-cooked
white may radiate from this center pyramid. A large anchovy
curved around a circle of hard-cooked egg in the center of a
canape is also effective. The anchovies may be omitted from
the garnish.
SARDINE OR LOBSTER OR OTHER SEA FOOD
CANAPES
6 portions prepared bread Salt
6 large sardines or Worcestershire sauce
6 tablespoons lobster or other Pickled beets
sea food, chopped fine 6 large olives
Juice of 1 lemon 24 thin slices lemon
Remove skin and backbone and flake the sardines with a fork.
Or chop cooked lobster meat very fine. Season with lemon-
juice, salt and a few drops of Worcestershire sauce. Spread
the prepared bread with the mixture and decorate by placing
in the center of each canape a small circle of pickled beet. Cut
a slice from the end of a large olive so that it will stand firmly
and place this in the center of the beet. A narrow border of
minced beet may be placed around the edge of the canape
with good effect. Garnish the plate with four thin slices of
lemon placed symmetrically.
Crab meat, shrimps or any smoked or canned fish, highly
seasoned and attractively garnished, may be utilized for canapes
instead of the sardines or lobster meat.
CAVIAR CANAPES
6 portions prepared bread 3 tablespoons white onion
3 tablespoons caviar chopped fine
Garnish of green pepper or hard-cooked egg
Caviar, which is the salted roe of the sturgeon, is highly
esteemed by epicures as an appetizer. It is usually served with
minced raw onion and decorated with hard-cooked egg and
minced pickles. A favorite arrangement is to have an oblong
canape two by four inches, one half covered with the minced
APPETIZERS 161
raw onion and the other half with the caviar. The striking
difference in the colors is very effective. A sliver of green pep-
per may lie just where the two mixtures meet and little points
of the green pepper extend out on each side, or a circle of the
white of hard-cooked egg may decorate the center of the half
covered with caviar and a little mound of the riced yolk orna-
ment the section covered by the chopped onion.
CHEESE AND OLIVE CANAPES
6 portions prepared bread Garnish of red pepper or
3 tablespoons cream cheese pickled beet
Olives stuffed with pimientos
Spread on the prepared bread a paste made by mixing equal
proportions of cream cheese and chopped stuffed olives. Garnish
with a quarter-inch border of the chopped olives and a star of
red pepper or pickled beet in the center of each canape.
PATE DE FOIE GRAS CANAPES
6 portions prepared bread % CU P cream
3 tablespoons pate de foie Cayenne pepper
gras paste or imitation pate Salt
de foie gras Parsley
Add the cream and seasoning to the paste. Rub through a
fine sieve and spread on portions of fried bread. Garnish with
parsley.
IMITATION PATE DE FOIE GRAS
l /2 cup chicken livers l / 4 onion, 'chopped
2 tablespoons chicken fat or Salt and pepper
butter Mustard or celery salt
Carefully clean, cook and chop chicken livers and mash them
to a paste with a wooden spoon. Chop the onion fine and fry
in the fat till yellowed. Place the livers, the fat and the onion
in a cup, mix well and season with pepper and salt, and either
mustard or celery salt, according to taste. Place at once on ice.
This preparation makes excellent sandwiches.
162
Suggestions for Mixtures to Be Used in Making
Canapes
1. Anchovy paste mixed with lemon -juice.
2. Shredded tuna fish mixed with lemon- juice and mayon-
naise.
3. Chopped lobster meat mixed with cream and seasoned
with salt, pepper and lemon-juice.
4. Cream cheese and chopped stuffed olives.
5. Minced red and green peppers mixed with mayonnaise
and seasoned with salt, pepper and lemon-juice.
6. Sardine paste mixed with lemon- juice, salt and Worcester-
shire sauce.
7. A layer of anchovy paste covered with a paste of shredded
crab meat, cream cheese and butter, seasoned with salt and
pepper.
8. Devilled ham mixed with chopped hard-cooked egg and
horseradish.
Fruit Appetizers
Fruit cocktails may be made from mixtures of almost any
fruits, canned or fresh. As a rule, combinations of a sweet
and a sour fruit are most piquant in flavor. All fruit appetizers
should be thoroughly chilled. The trays of the mechanical
refrigerator are excellent for this purpose.
GRAPEFRUIT COCKTAILS
No. 1 GRAPEFRUIT ON THE HALF SHELL.
Cut grapefruit in half, crosswise. With a pair of sharp
shears or with a grapefruit corer, cut a circular piece from the
center of each half, being careful not to cut through the skin.
Then with a sharp knife loosen each section from the mem-
brane and skin. Sprinkle with sugar and set in the refrigerator
to chill. Pink the edges of the skin if you prefer, and remove
the pieces of membrane between the sections of fruit if you
have time. In this way the shell is left with only edible portions
of the fruit. In any case each mouthful of fruit should be en-
tirely detached from the shell. Serve a half grapefruit on a
plate or in a special grapefruit glass, embedded in ice.
APPETIZERS 163
No. 2 GRAPEFRUIT AND ORANGE COCKTAIL.
1 cup diced grapefruit pulp Sugar
1 cup diced orange pulp Lemon-juice or grape-juice
Maraschino cherries or preserved pineapple
Mix the orange and grapefruit pulp. Sprinkle with sugar
and a little lemon-juice or grape-juice. Chill, and have glasses
chilled so that the whole, when served, may be very cold. At
the last moment fill the glasses with the fruit mixture, garnish-
ing with cherries or preserved pineapple.
No. 3 GRAPEFRUIT AND STRAWBERRY COCKTAIL.
3 grapefruit 1 pint strawberries
Sugar
Cut the grapefruit in half and carefully remove the pulp,
leaving the inner white skin as lining. Place the shells in cold
water to keep them firm. Mix the grapefruit pulp with the
strawberries and sprinkle with sugar. Chill. At serving time,
fill the shells with the mixture placing large handsome berries
on top as garnish. The mixed fruit left over may be served
at breakfast or used as a sauce for pudding or ice-cream.
STRAWBERRY AND PINEAPPLE COCKTAIL
1 cup orange-juice Sugar
l /$ cup lemon-juice 1 cup strawberries
1 cup diced pineapple
Combine the orange- and lemon- juice sweetened to taste,
keeping the mixture rather tart. Chill. Wash and drain the
strawberries and hull them. At serving time cut the berries
in half (except six large ones), mix with the pineapple, place
in glasses and cover with the fruit- juice. One large, perfect
berry set on a tiny circle of pineapple may decorate the top
of each cocktail.
ORANGE MINT COCKTAIL
6 small, rather sour oranges 3 tablespoons lemon-juice or
Powdered sugar 3 tablespoons pineapple-juice
Fresh mint 2 tablespoons sugar
Separate the orange into sections and remove the thin skin
with a pair of scissors. Chill thoroughly, place in glasses,
sprinkle with powdered sugar and add the lemon -juice mixed
1 64
'^VXV^
with pineapple-juice or sugar. Sprinkle with chopped mint
and garnish with an upright sprig of mint in the center of the
glass.
WATERMELON COCKTAIL
2 cups watermelon balls Powdered sugar
Fresh mint 2 tablespoons lemon-juice
(Lemon- juice and sugar may be omitted)
With a vegetable-cutter prepare small balls of bright pink
watermelon. Sprinkle lightly with sugar and add lemon- juice.
Chill thoroughly. Fill glasses. Garnish with sprigs of fresh
mint. A pretty fancy is to moisten the edge of each cocktail
glass and invert in chopped mint before filling. This will leave
a line of green adhering to the edge of the glass. The glass may
be lined with sprigs of mint before the watermelon is put in.
CHERRY COCKTAIL
1 pound cherries 6 tablespoons strawberry- juice
l /2 cup chopped almonds 6 tablespoons powdered sugar
3 teaspoons lemon- juice
Pit the cherries, sprinkle with chopped almonds and pour
over them a sirup made by mixing strawberry- juice with
powdered sugar and lemon- juice. Chill and serve ice-cold in
cocktail glasses. Decorate the plate with two or three whole
cherries and a leaf or two.
MIXED FRUIT COCKTAIL
6 large oranges Juice of 1 lemon
1 banana Sugar
2 slices pineapple
Slice off the tops of the oranges and scoop out the inside,
being careful not to break the inside white skin of the orange-
peel. Put the orange cups into a bowl of ice-water. Cut in
small pieces the banana and pineapple, mix these with the
orange pulp cut in small pieces, add the lemon-juice, sweeten
to taste, and fill the orange shells. Set each one in a small bowl,
filled with crushed ice.
The mixed fruit pulp that remains after the orange skins
have been filled may be kept in the refrigerator and served as
sauce with ice-cream or used in any other way that circum-
stances suggest.
FOR THE HOSTESS WHO
WOULD DEVELOP A SPE-
CIALITE DE LA MAISON
THERE ARE BACON-
OLIVE-CHEESE, CREAM
CHEESE COATED IN
CHIPPED BEEF, OR THE
INDIVIDUAL CHECKER-
BOARD LOAF
SOUPS
OOUPS may be roughly divided into two groups. In the
^ first group belong the soups that are always made from
meat stock. These are the various modifications of brown
and white stocks, bouillons, consommes and broths. In the
second group belong the soups that may be made either with
or without meat stock. These are the various modifications of
cream soups, purees and bisques, of chowders and stews and of
vegetable soups.
The Value of Soup in the Dietary
The purpose of soup in the meal is two-fold ; first, to improve
digestion and stimulate appetite by introducing at the beginning
of the meal a highly flavored liquid food which increases the
flow of digestive juices; second, to increase the variety of nu-
trients in the meal, or even to furnish the main dish of the meal.
Stock soups are chiefly valuable for the first purpose. Cream
soups, purees, bisques, chowders and stews are more valuable
for the second purpose.
A heavy meal should begin with an unthickened stock soup;
a light meal may well begin with one of the cream variety.
Home Made and Ready to Use Soups
Not so long ago, all soups were made at home, and the stock
pot was kept on the stove day in and day out; but with the
gradual change from coal to gas and electricity as fuels, and
with the perfecting of modern commercial canning and con-
densing methods, the long slow process of stock making has
become less common in home kitchens.
However, in soup many valuable food materials that would
otherwise be thrown out may be saved for the nourishment
of the family, and some knowledge of the principles of soup
making is worth while for every housekeeper. A home made
soup which is lacking in strength or flavor may be easily im-
proved by the addition of a can of soup or some of the various
meat extracts obtainable.
165
i66
xv^
For the small family, the canned soups are almost indispen-
sable, and in the making of sauces and gravies, where only a
small amount of stock is required, a can of soup supplies the
required foundation at a minimum of trouble and expense.
Making Soup Stock
CUT MEAT IN SMALL PIECES and saw or crack bone. This
is done to increase the surface exposed to the action of hot
water.
BROWN FROM ONE-FOURTH TO ONE-HALF THE MEAT for
brown stocks and consommes. This gives added color and im-
proves flavor.
SOAK THE MEAT AND BONE IN COLD WATER for thirty
minutes or more before cooking. This helps to extract the
juices of the meat.
HEAT GRADUALLY TO THE SIMMERING-POINT (190 -2 10
F.). If stock is to be used for bouillon or consomme or any
clear soup, skim at this time. Continue to simmer for three
or four hours to insure as complete extraction as possible of
the juices and flavor of meat. If the mixture boils, it is not
so fine in flavor.
ADD THE SPICES, HERBS, AND VEGETABLES, and continue
simmering from one-half hour to one hour. The seasonings
are added at this time rather than earlier to prevent the dis-
agreeable flavor of over-cooked vegetables.
STRAIN THE SOUP INTO A LARGE BOWL or other container.
If the stock is to be used for clear soups, place several thicknesses
of cheese-cloth over the strainer before pouring the mixture
through it.
COOL THE STOCK QUICKLY, because quick cooling improves
the keeping quality of the soup. Soup should, if possible, al-
ways be allowed to become thoroughly cold before being
used, since the fat hardens and collects in a cake on top and can
be removed easily. Do not remove fat from the top of soup
stock until the stock is to be used. It protects the stock against
spoilage.
KEEP STOCK IN A COLD PLACE, as it spoils quickly if it is not
kept chilled. Spoiled stock, like spoiled meat, is dangerous food.
SOUPS 167
Using Soup Stock
When ready to use stock, loosen fat around the edges with
the thin blade of a knife. Remove the cake of fat. If the
stock is jellied, wipe off the remaining small pieces of fat and
the edge of the bowl with a cloth wrung out in hot water. If
the stock is very soft or liquid, pass small sheets of absorbent
paper over the top of the stock.
WHEN STOCK MUST BE USED BEFORE COOLING, skim off all
the fat possible. Most of the remainder of the fat may be
removed in one of two ways. The first way is to pass over the
top small sheets of absorbent paper or blotting-paper. The
second way is to cool the soup as much as possible beforehand,
then to wrap a piece of ice in a cloth and let it down into the
stock. Move the ice around just below the surface so that the
fat on the surface is suddenly chilled, and it will gather on the
cloth around the ice. This must be done quickly to prevent
unnecessary dilution of the stock.
FOR CLEAR SOUPS, take the stock from the top of the bowl,
being careful to avoid any sediment which may have escaped
through the sieve and settled to the bottom of the bowl. This
sediment is valuable as a food and should be reserved for gravies
or soups which are not necessarily clear. Clarify this stock if
a translucent, sparkling soup is desired.
To CLARIFY SOUP Allow one egg-white and shell to one
quart of stock. Crush the shell into small pieces and mix with
the slightly beaten egg-white. Heat the stock just enough to
liquefy it, if it is jellied. Thoroughly stir the egg-white and
shell into the stock. Heat to the boiling-point, stirring con-
stantly, then boil without stirring two to five minutes. Add a
cup of cold water and set on back of stove to settle. Strain
through two thicknesses of cheese-cloth. The purpose of egg
in clarifying soup is the same as in coffee. The coagulated egg
gathers around itself the particles of solid substance in the soup,
which otherwise would be fine enough to pass through a strainer.
i68
INGREDIENTS NEEDED TO MAKE ONE QUART
OF STANDARD STOCK
BROWN STOCK OR BOUILLON.
2 pounds beef ( l / 4 to l /z 1 blade mace
bone) 1 teaspoon sweet herbs
l l / 4 quarts cold water Sprig parsley
4 to 6 peppercorns 1 tablespoon, each, of carrot,
2 cloves onion, celery, turnip
1 bay-leaf 1 teaspoon salt
A good stock can be made by using left-over meat scraps
and bones instead of the beef specified, and by substituting any
available vegetables, such as the outer leaves of lettuce, celery
tops, etc., for those given above. After the stock is made, left-
over vegetables, cereals, hard-cooked eggs, small pieces of meat,
etc., may be diced or chopped and served in the soup.
CONSOMME.
1 pound lean beef 1 clove
1 pound veal l /2 teaspoon sweet herbs
1 1 / 4 quarts cold water or Sprig parsley
1 pint cold water and 1 tablespoon each, celery, car-
1 pint chicken stock rot, onion
2 peppercorns 1 teaspoon salt
MUTTON OR LAMB STOCK OR BROTH Use the same ingre-
dients as for brown stock or bouillon, using mutton or lamb
instead of beef, and removing most of the fat from the meat.
WHITE STOCK.
2 pounds chicken or knuckle l /2 teaspoon sweet herbs
of veal 1 tablespoon, each, of onion
l l / 4 quarts cold water and celery
2 peppercorns 1 teaspoon salt
1 clove
The liquid in which a fowl or chicken is cooked is also a
white stock or chicken broth.
SOUPS 169
FISH STOCK OR COURT BOUILLON.
2 pounds white fish or 1 clove
2 pounds head and trim- Sprig parsley
mings 1 bay-leaf
1*4 quarts cold water 1 tablespoon, each, carrot,
2 peppercorns celery, onion
Fish stock needs to be cooked for only half the time required
for other stock.
VARIATIONS OF BROWN OR WHITE SOUP STOCK
VEGETABLE SOUP If a clear soup is desired, follow the direc-
tions for clarifying soup stock, and then add, to each quart of
brown stock, one cup of diced vegetables, raw or cooked. If
the vegetables are cooked, the soup needs to be boiled for only
a few minutes. When raw vegetables are added, simmer until
the vegetables are all tender, adding boiling water, if necessary,
to replace any that may have evaporated. Season to taste and
serve.
SAGO, RICE OR BARLEY SOUP For each quart of brown or
white stock, use two tablespoons sago, rice or barley. Soak sago
or rice one-half hour in enough stock or water to cover it.
Barley should be soaked over night. Bring remainder of stock
to simmering-point. Add soaked sago, barley, or rice and sim-
mer in closed saucepan one-half hour.
MACARONI, VERMICELLI, SPAGHETTI, OR NOODLE SOUP For
each quart brown stock, use *4 cup macaroni, spaghetti, vermi-
celli or noodles broken into small pieces. Simmer the pastes in
the stock until tender, adding water if necessary.
VARIATIONS OF CONSOMME
CONSOMME PRINCESSE Consomme served with shreds or
small dice of cooked chicken and green peas.
CONSOMME A LA ROYALE Consomme served with tiny
blocks of royal custard.
CONSOMME JULIENNE OR JULIENNE SOUP Consomme
served with carrot, onions, turnips and celery cut into shreds
about as thick as a match.
The vegetables should be boiled in clear water before being
added to the consomme.
170
Unthickened Soups
Soups suitable for serving as the first course of a meal with
a substantial main course are found in this group. Any of the
variations of soup stock or consomme may be used for this
purpose. The following recipes give directions for other soups
of this variety.
CHICKEN OR TURKEY BONE SOUP
Never discard the bones of turkey or chicken as they always
will make a delicious soup. Scrape the meat from the bones,
break the bones, pack in a kettle, and cover with cold water,
adding a small onion. Cover closely and simmer very gently
for three hours. Strain and cool. One-half hour before it is
to be served, return to the fire and for every quart of stock
add one cup of the cold meat, season and keep hot till needed.
This soup may be greatly improved by adding to it, three
minutes before serving, ten oysters to each quart of soup.
CLAM BROTH
12 clams in the shell 2 cups water Paprika
Purchase large clams in the shells. Scrub them thoroughly
with a brush, place them in a kettle with cold water, closely
covered, and bring water to the boiling-point. As soon as the
shells have opened, remove them from the broth. The clams
may be served at once, in the half-shell, or taken from the
shells and kept to be served in any form desired. Let the broth
settle, strain, being careful not to pour out the sandy sediment,
reheat, add a little red pepper or paprika, and serve hot. Twelve
good-sized clams should make enough broth for six persons,
but if there does not seem to be sufficient, add a little boiling
water or milk. Clam broth seldom needs added salt. Water
wafers heated in the oven, or divided crackers toasted on their
broken surfaces, buttered and heated for a few minutes in the
oven, are generally served with this broth.
Clam broth may be served, hot or cold, in cups with a heap-
ing teaspoon of whipped cream, into which has been beaten a
little salt and pepper^ placed upon the top of each cup. The
cream adds richness to the flavor of the soup and increases its
nourishing properties.
MODERN MILK PRODUCTS ADD
GREATLY TO THE SUCCESS OF
MAKING CREAMY THICK SOUPS
Irradiated Evaporated Milk
Institute
*
I
SOUPS, HOT AND THICK, OR
JELLIED CONSOMME ARE
DOUBLY DELICIOUS WHEN
BEAUTIFULLY SERVED
SOUPS 171
CLEAR TOMATO SOUP
1 quart brown soup stock 4 tablespoons butter
1 can tomatoes 2 sprigs parsley
y 2 teaspoon peppercorns l/ 4 cup each, onion, carrot,
1 small bay-leaf celery, raw ham, cut in
3 cloves dice
3 sprigs thyme Salt Pepper
Cook onion, carrot, celery, and ham in butter five minutes.
Add tomatoes, peppercorns, bay-leaf, cloves, thyme and parsley,
cover and cook slowly one hour. Strain carefully, add hot
stock, and season with salt and pepper.
This recipe may be used for jellied soup or for salad.
JELLIED SOUP
1 quart clear brown, or white 2 tablespoons gelatin
stock, or tomato or chicken l /z cup cold water
soup
Soften the gelatin in the cold water, add to the boiling hot
soup, chill and serve in cups. The trays of the mechanical
refrigerator are excellent for chilling soups.
Substantial Vegetable and Stock Soups
Soups in this group are suitable for serving as the first course
of an otherwise light dinner or as the main course of an in-
formal luncheon.
BEAN SOUP
3 slices bacon 1 tablespoon flour
2 cups baked or boiled beans 1 tablespoon butter
4 cups cold water Salt, pepper, paprika
Cook bacon. Add to beans. Add cold water and cook until
beans are soft, then rub through a strainer. Place on the fire
and add a little more water, if needed, as the soup must not be
too thick. Bind with the flour and butter. Cook two or three
minutes. Season with salt, a dash of pepper, and paprika.
172
BLACK BEAN SOUP
1 cup black beans 2 tablespoons butter
l l /z quarts water 2 tablespoons flour
1 onion 2 hard-cooked eggs
1 tablespoon fat for sauteing l /2 teaspoon mustard
2 stalks celery Pepper, salt, paprika
1 lemon
Soak the beans over night. Next morning, drain them and
cover with the cold water. Add sliced onion, which has been
browned in the fat, also stalks of celery broken into inch pieces.
Simmer until beans are soft, adding more water from time to
time. Press through a sieve, again bring to the boiling-point,
and then add seasoning of mustard, pepper, salt, and paprika to
taste. Bind with roux of butter and flour to prevent the soup
from separating. Cut the eggs and lemon in thin slices, and add
these to the strained soup just before serving.
BORSCHT
(A Famous Russian Soup)
1 bunch beets l /2 pound breast of beef
1 cup tomatoes, fresh or 1 tablespoon lemon-juice
canned % CU P sugar
4 cups water % teaspoon salt
1 small onion 4 eggs
Pare the beets and cut them into long strips. Strain the toma-
toes, over the beets, not letting any seeds through. Add water.
Put in the onion and meat, cut into small pieces, and simmer
for thirty minutes. Add lemon- juice, sugar, and salt. Boil one-
half hour more. Beat the eggs with a pinch of salt. Add the
hot borscht to this, a little at a time, stirring well to prevent
the separating of the eggs. This will behave more or less as in
any soft custard mixture. Serve at once, while very hot.
BOUILLABAISSE
This is a famous fish mixture and greatly esteemed by epi-
cures, but it can not be recommended as economical. It has one
advantage, however, and that is that if served with celery,
bread and butter, and a dessert, it would provide the main dish
for an excellent meal.
SOUPS 173
l / 2 cup oil 1 quart boiling water
2 onions, chopped 12 oysters or clams
l l / 2 pounds haddock 1 tablespoon parsley, chopped
1 1 /2 pounds cod or halibut 1 boiled lobster
2 slices lemon 1 teaspoon caramel coloring
1 bay-leaf 1 teaspoon salt Pepper
1 tomato Croutons
Put the oil and chopped onions into a large fish-kettle and
cook until the onions are brown. Add the fish, cut in slices,
two slices of lemon, a bay-leaf and the tomato, peeled and cut
into quarters. Pour the boiling water over this mixture after
it has simmered for ten minutes, and let all boil for another ten
minutes. Skim, add oysters or clams and chopped parsley,
also the meat of the boiled lobster, cut in large pieces, and cara-
mel, salt, and pepper. Each portion served should include a
large crouton, about two inches square, a piece of each kind
of fish, a piece of lobster, and a couple of oysters.
CHICKEN GUMBO
This recipe, if followed as given, will provide the main dish
for dinner. Chicken gumbo may be made by using leftovers,
or the remainder after making chicken salad or boned chicken.
1 fowl (3 to 4 pounds) 2 sprigs parsley
l /z cup salt pork fat 3 cups boiling water
1 onion l / 2 teaspoon pepper
1 quart okra, fresh or canned 2 tablespoons salt
5 tomatoes 1 cup boiled rice
1 cup cream
This is a noted Southern soup. Cut the chicken into con-
venient pieces and saute until brown in salt pork fat, then place
all the pieces in a saucepan. Cut a large onion into thin slices
and saute slowly for ten minutes in the fat. Add okra, cut
fine, sliced tomatoes, and parsley sprigs. Saute all of these in-
gredients one-half hour, quite slowly, and place them in the
saucepan with the chicken. Add boiling water, pepper and
salt. Simmer slowly two to four hours, or until the chicken is
very tender, and then add boiled rice and cream. If more
seasoning is needed, add it, and if necessary, thin with boiling
water. Boil up once and serve. Cayenne pepper (one-fourth
teaspoon) may be used instead of white or black pepper, if de-
sired. Separate the bones from the chicken. Serve with pieces
of chicken in the plate with the soup.
174
CHICKEN SOUP
This recipe provides a large bowl of substantial soup, as well
as a cooked fowl, and when the soup is served the rest of the
dinner should consist of light dishes. For more economical
recipes see Index for chicken or turkey bone soup, and chicken
broth for invalids.
1 fowl (3 to 4 pounds) 1 cup milk
l / 2 pound ham 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 onion Salt and pepper
2 to 3 quarts water 1 tablespoon flour
54 cup rice 1 tablespoon chicken fat
Cut up fowl into quarters, with the ham and onion, and add
the water. Let this simmer until the meat is very tender, then
strain, reserving the meat to be used in any way desired. Re-
move all possible fat, and to one and one-fourth quarts of this
soup (the remainder can be used for sauce with the meat) add
well washed rice, chopped parsley, salt and pepper. Simmer
until the rice is tender, add milk, then add roux made of flour
and chicken fat. Cook until the mixture is thickened (about
five minutes), season and serve.
GREEN PEA SOUP
2 cups stock 2 sprigs mint
1 quart water 1 tablespoon flour
1 quart green peas 1 tablespoon butter
1 celery stalk Salt and pepper
1 onion Sugar
1 turnip
Reserve one-half cup of peas, and to the stock and water
add the rest of the peas, the celery stalk, onion and turnip cut
into pieces, and the mint. Stew until the mass is tender. Strain
through a sieve or coarse cheese-cloth. Thin with stock or
water, if necessary; bind with a roux of flour and fat and season
with salt, pepper, and a little sugar. Add the half cup of whole
peas, stew for a few minutes, and serve.
SPLIT PEA SOUP
This recipe provides the main part of a dinner, since the
ham end will serve as the meat dish. A ham bone, left over
SOUPS 175
from a boiled or baked ham, will flavor pea soup quite as well
as a piece bought especially for the purpose.
2 or 3 pounds ham end 3 quarts boiling water
1 carrot 1 cup split peas
1 onion Salt and pepper
2 potatoes 2 tablespoons catchup
Put the end of a moderately lean smoked ham into a kettle
with carrot and peeled onion, whole potatoes, and boiling water.
Boil one hour and strain. Now rinse the ham thoroughly in
hot water and return to the strained stock, together with split
peas which have been soaking all night, and boil for one hour.
Season with salt and white pepper and add catchup. Serve at
once. Thin with boiling water if too thick.
ONION SOUP GRATINE
3 onions Pepper and salt
3 tablespoons butter % clove garlic (if desired)
3 pints beef stock 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
3 tablespoons grated cheese % l a f French bread
Slice onions and put them into a stew-pan with butter. Stir
and fry slowly until softened and slightly browned. Add beef
stock, boil ten minutes, skim, season, and add parsley and
garlic. Cut the bread into thin slices, dry in the oven a few
minutes, pour soup into a low earthen casserole, put bread on
top, sprinkle with grated cheese, and set in a very hot oven
(450 -5 00 F.) just long enough to brown the cheese.
ONION STEW OR DUTCH BROTH
6 onions 3 tablespoons flour
5 tablespoons butter 2 cups scalded milk
3 cups cold water Salt and cayenne
1 egg-yolk
Chop the onions and cook them in two tablespoons of the
butter for five minutes, then add water and cook thirty minutes.
Press through a sieve. Make a roux of the remaining butter
and the flour, combine it with the scalded milk and add season-
ing. Cook five minutes, stirring constantly. Add this milk
mixture to the onion mixture. Mix thoroughly and add the
gg-yolk, slightly beaten. Serve individually in Dutch bowls
and place one teaspoon of grated Edam cheese on the top. Set
for a few minutes in a hot oven to melt the cheese.
176
Thick Soups, Chowders and Stews
Cream Soups
Cream soups are made by combining a very thin white sauce,
see page 308, with a suitable quantity of cooked, mashed,
strained vegetable, fish or meat pulp. Irradiated evaporated milk
used instead of white sauce will greatly increase the food value
and when used for making white sauce will increase the flavor.
Flavor is improved, too, by the use of some highly flavored
vegetables or the addition of a proportion of soup stock.
Purees
Purees are made in the same way as cream soups, but are
somewhat thicker. They are often served under the name of
"Cream Soup."
Bisques
The name bisque is usually given to a cream soup made from
fish, and the fish is often diced or mashed through a coarse
strainer. A familiar example of an exception in the use of
the word is mock bisque soup, or tomato bisque, as it is often
called.
Chowders
Chowders were probably the common ancestors of the more
refined cream soups, purees, and bisques. The word chowder
comes from the French cbaudiere, meaning caldron. The
chowder originated as a community fish stew to which each
neighbor contributed something; milk, fish, potatoes, crackers,
pork or some seasoning. These contributions were all cooked
together in the common caldron, from which chowder derives
its name, and each contributor withdrew his share of soup when
it was ready.
The chowder of today is much the same as the old chowder,
and consists of pieces of different vegetables or of fish and po-
tatoes and various seasonings cooked in milk with crackers added
just before serving.
Fish Stews
Fish stews are made of milk and the juice of the fish which
gives flavor to the soup. They differ from the cream soups in
SOUPS 177
that they need not be thickened, though they often are, and
from the chowders in being less complex in composition.
Binding Thick Soups
When a vegetable, meat or fish pulp is combined with milk
or stock in making soups, they separate and the solid substance
sinks to the bottom of the liquid. Some flour or corn-starch
cooked into the mixture will overcome this. With many of
these soups the reason for using the flour or corn-starch may
not necessarily be to thicken a soup which the vegetable, meat
or fish pulp has already made thick enough, but to blend the
liquid with the solid so that all parts of the soup will have the
same consistency.
Flour or corn-starch may be mixed with enough cold liquid
milk, water, or stock to make a creamy thickness and added
carefully to the soup; or it may be combined with the soup
by means of a roux (see Index) . When a colored roux is de-
sired the fat is browned before the flour is added and the mix-
ture is cooked to a reddish brown color. When a roux is made
in this way, the liquid is usually added to it gradually.
Preventing Skin on Cream Soups
A cream or milk soup has a tendency to form a skin on the
top as it cools. If it is beaten just before it is served, the froth
protects it against skin formation.
A spoonful of whipped cream or beaten egg-white served
on top of each portion of cream soup aids in preventing the skin
formation and adds to the delicacy and attractiveness of the
dish.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING A STANDARD
CREAM SOUP
4 cups milk or part milk and 2 cups vegetable pulp or meat
part stock or fish pulp
2 tablespoons flour Salt, pepper, other
2 tablespoons fat seasonings
1. Make a white sauce of the liquid, flour, and fat.
2. Cook the vegetables or meat or fish until tender, drain s
and mash through a sieve.
3. Combine the vegetable, meat, or fish pulp with the white
sauce.
4. Season, beat with an egg-beater, and serve. A tiny portion
of whipped cream or beaten egg-white may be served on top
of each portion.
The amount of flour may be increased for purees and bisques.
VARIATIONS OF CREAM SOUP
CREAM OF ASPARAGUS OR CREAM OF CELERY SOUP Follow
directions for making a standard cream soup.
CREAM OF CORN SOUP
5 cups corn, canned or fresh 2 tablespoons butter
5 cups milk or part milk and Salt and pepper
part white stock 2 egg-yolks
2 tablespoons flour
Put the corn into a double boiler with one quart of the milk
and cook for twenty minutes. Make a white sauce of the milk
and corn, flour, and fat, add salt and pepper and cook five
minutes. Rub the soup through a strainer, beat the yolks of the
eggs well, and add to them the remaining cup of cold milk;
stir this mixture into the soup, cook for a minute or two, stirring
constantly. Beat and serve at once.
CREAM OF MUSHROOM SOUP
l /4 pound mushrooms (or skin 2 tablespoons flour
and stems of l / 2 pound) 1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter 1 pint milk
Brush, wash and skin the mushrooms. Put the skins to sim-
mer in a little water. Cut the mushroom caps and stems into
very small pieces; add one pint of water and simmer until
tender. Make a sauce of the fat, flour, salt and milk and add
the water in which the mushroom caps, stems and skin were
cooked.
CREAM OF ONION AND POTATO SOUP
3 cups scalded milk 4 medium potatoes
1 cup potato water 4 onions
2 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
2 tablespoons butter Salt and pepper
Boil the potatoes and onions together, until tender. Drain.
Save the water and rub the vegetables through a coarse strainer.
SOUPS 179
Make a white sauce of the liquid, flour, and fat and combine
with the potato and onion pulp. Season with chopped parsley,
salt and pepper. Beat with an egg-beater and serve with crou-
tons.
CREAM OF PEA SOUP Follow directions for making a stand-
ard cream soup, but keep one cup of the cooked peas whole
and add them to the soup just before serving.
CREAM OF SPINACH SOUP Follow directions for making a
standard cream soup.
CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP
1 quart milk or half milk and 1 pint tomatoes
half white stock Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons flour l / 4 teaspoon soda
2 tablespoons butter
Make a white sauce of the liquid, flour, and butter. Cook
the tomatoes until tender, and mash through a coarse sieve.
Just before serving, add the soda to the tomatoes and gradually
add the tomatoes to the white sauce, stirring constantly. Season
and serve at once. If soup begins to curdle, beat thoroughly
with egg-beater.
Purees
PUREE OF ONION
3 large or 6 small onions 2 or 3 tablespoons butter or
2 cups white stock other fat
2 cups milk Salt and pepper
2 or 3 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
Make a white sauce with stock, milk, flour, and butter. Cook
onions in water until very tender. Drain, and rub through a
sieve. Combine onion and sauce. Season with salt, pepper,
and chopped parsley. Beat with egg-beater and serve.
Use three tablespoons flour when increased thickness is de-
sired.
FISH PUREE
1 quart milk 4 tablespoons butter or
1 small onion, minced other fat
4 tablespoons flour 2 cups cooked fish
Salt and pepper
Scald the minced onion in milk. Make a white sauce of the
i8o
SSNSNS
milk, flour, and butter. Rub the cooked fish through a sieve.
Combine the fish and sauce. Season and serve.
PUREE OF PEAS AND TOMATOES
l /2 pound dried yellow split 1 or 2 celery tops
peas Salt and pepper
1 pint tomatoes 1 tablespoon flour
1 quart water 1 tablespoon butter
1 onion
Soak peas over night in water enough to cover them three or
four inches. Drain, and put into a saucepan with the tomatoes,
water, sliced onion, and celery tops. Cook until the peas are
tender. Mash through a sieve. Season with salt and pepper.
Bind with a roux made of the flour and butter, and serve,
garnished with a thin slice of tomato or lemon and a few
canned peas if available. Serve with bread croutons.
SPLIT PEA OR LIMA BEAN PUREE
1 cup split peas or dried lima 2 tablespoons butter or
beans other fat
2 quarts water Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon flour Celery salt
1 teaspoon onion-juice
Soak peas or beans all night, then put them over the fire with
water and bring to a boil. Cook slowly, until soft. Rub
through a sieve, heat, and thicken with roux of flour and
fat. Season with salt, pepper, celery salt, and onion-juice.
Stir or beat until smooth and serve with croutons.
Cold Fruit Purees
In hot weather, cold fruit purees are sometimes preferred to
hot soups. They are always served in cups, usually of glass,
and with a few pieces of the fruit floating on the surface. They
should be thoroughly chilled. The trays of the mechanical
refrigerator are excellent for this purpose. These fruit purees
are really as closely related to the appetizers as to the soups.
SOUPS 181
CHERRY PUREE
Juice from 1 quart of tart 2 teaspoons arrowroot
cherries, freshly stewed or Grated rind of 1 lemon
canned
Heat the juice from the cherries. Add arrowroot moistened
with cold water, stirring the mixture rapidly to prevent the
forming of lumps. Flavor with the grated lemon-rind. Serve
very cold, with a whole cherry floating on each portion.
ORANGE PUREE
2 cups orange-juice l /2 cup sugar
1 teaspoon corn-starch 1 teaspoon grated orange-
2 tablespoons cold water rind
Place orange-juice in saucepan and when it is thoroughly
heated add the corn-starch mixed with the cold water. Cook
slowly until clear. Add sugar and grated orange-rind. Serve
ice-cold in glass sherbet cups.
RASPBERRY PUREE
l / 2 cup granulated tapioca 2 cups raspberries
6 cups water Sugar
l /2 cup currant-juice
Boil tapioca in water and currant-juice. When tapioca is
transparent, add raspberries and sugar to taste. Set aside to
cool. Serve ice-cold in sherbet-glasses.
Bisques
BISQUE OF CLAMS
24 clams in the shell 2 cups water
2 cups rich milk or white 1 tablespoon chopped celery
stock or part of each 1 teaspoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon butter Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon flour
Make a white sauce of the milk, flour, and butter. Scrub the
clams thoroughly, then pack into pot with a tight-fitting lid,
using l / 2 cup water to steam. When all have popped open,
l82
^-^N>-^^
remove, cool in their own liquor. Detach clams from shells, put
through food chopper and add strained liquor. Add water,
chopped celery and parsley and cook ten minutes. Press through
a sieve and add to the white sauce. Season, beat with an egg-
beater, and serve.
BISQUE OF LOBSTER
1 medium-sized lobster 1 cup cold water
1 quart milk Red pepper
4 tablespoons butter Salt and pepper
4 tablespoons flour
Make a white sauce of the milk, flour, and butter. Re-
move meat from freshly boiled lobster. Reserve the coral and
the green fat. Put the cold water into a kettle and add the
broken claws and shell and the finely chopped tail meat. Bring
to the simmering-point and simmer for twenty minutes. Drain,
and stir into the white sauce. Add the remainder of the lobster
meat, cut in dice. Season with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Just
before serving, add the coral mashed to a paste with the green
fat. Mix thoroughly, reheat, and serve with croutons.
BISQUE OF OYSTERS
1 pint oysters 1 slice onion, chopped fine
2 cups milk 1 stalk celery, diced
1 cup stale bread-crumbs 1 stalk parsley, chopped fine
1 tablespoon flour 1 bay-leaf
1 tablespoon butter Salt and pepper
2 cups water
Scald the milk, add the bread-crumbs and cook in a double
boiler for twenty minutes. Rub through a sieve. Make a
white sauce of the milk and crumb mixture and the flour and
butter. Chop the oysters, put them in a saucepan with their
own liquor, the water and the chopped vegetables and herbs.
Simmer for twenty or thirty minutes. Rub through a fine
sieve and combine with the white sauce mixture. More milk
or cream may be added if the bisque is very thick. Season and
serve.
SOUPS 183
MOCK BISQUE OR TOMATO BISQUE SOUP
2 cups raw or canned toma- Bit of bay-leaf
toes % CU P sta l e bread crumbs
2 teaspoons sugar 4 cups milk
l /$ teaspoon soda l / 2 tablespoon salt
l /2 onion stuck with 6 cloves l /s teaspoon pepper
Sprig of parsley Y 3 cup butter
Scald milk with bread crumbs, onion, parsley, and bay leaf.
Remove seasonings and rub through a sieve. Cook tomatoes
with sugar fifteen minutes, add soda and rub through a sieve.
Reheat bread and milk to boiling-point, add tomatoes, and pour
at once into tureen over butter, salt, and pepper. Serve with
croutons or crisp crackers.
Chowders
CLAM CHOWDER
50 clams l /2 teaspoon thyme
4 ounces salt pork 3 potatoes
1 medium-sized onion 1 pint milk
2 tablespoons flour l /2 teaspoon pepper
l /2 teaspoon salt 3 pilot biscuit
Put clams, with their own liquor, into a granite-ware sauce-
pan, and when they have come to a boil skim out the clams and
return liquid to the fire. Cut the salt pork into thin slices,
chop the onion, and saute the two together until brown. Stir
in flour, and when mixture is bubbling slowly, add the clam
liquor. Season with salt, white pepper, and thyme. Add po-
tatoes which have been cut into small cubes, and cook this
mixture until the potatoes are tender. Just before serving, add
milk, clams cut into pieces, and three large pilot biscuit or a
larger number of hard water-crackers, as preferred. If liked
thicker, blend one tablespoon of butter or other fat with the
same of flour, and add gradually.
To make Rhode Island clam chowder, add tomatoes, either
canned or fresh.
184
CORN CHOWDER
2 slices fat salt pork 2 cups boiling water
1 onion 1 cup cooked corn, fresh
3 cups diced boiled potatoes or canned
Salt and pepper 4 cups hot milk
Cut the pork into small pieces and try it out. In this cook
the sliced onion. Strain the fat into another receptacle, and put
the potatoes into the strained fat. Add boiling water, corn
which has been cooked till tender, and hot milk. Season with
salt and white pepper, bring to the boiling-point, and serve with
a cracker on each soup-plate.
FISH CHOWDER
l /4 pound fat salt pork, sliced 3 cups boiling water
2 cups raw fish, cut in dice 1 pint milk
6 small potatoes, sliced 3 pilot biscuit
2 onions, chopped fine
Fry salt pork in a deep kettle. When crisp remove pieces of
pork and put fish, potatoes and onions in kettle. Cover with
the boiling water. Simmer one-half hour, or until the potato
is tender. Add the milk and cook five minutes longer. Season
with salt and pepper. Just before serving, add the pilot biscuit.
OYSTER CHOWDER
1 quart oysters 2 tablespoons butter or
6 potatoes other fat
1 onion 1 tablespoon flour
1 cup water Salt and pepper
3 cups milk 3 pilot biscuit
Drain the oysters, and remove any particles of shell. Strain
the liquor through a fine wire sieve. Slice the potatoes and
onion thin and boil them in the oyster liquor and water until
tender but not mushy. Make a white sauce with the fat, flour,
and milk, put the oysters into it, and cook two minutes. Com-
bine white sauce with potatoes and onion and the liquor in
which they have been cooked. Season to taste with salt and
pepper. Place the pilot biscuit in the hot tureen. Pour the
chowder over them, and serve.
SOUPS 185
CLAM STEW
Make in same way as oyster stew, using clams.
CRAB STEW
6 hard-shell crabs 1 pint rich milk
1 tablespoon butter 1 quart water
1 tablespoon flour Salt and pepper
1 onion Parsley
Boil the crabs. Remove the meat and saute it in butter
with one small onion. Cook until the onion is quite brown.
Add flour, salt, and pepper, cook a little longer, then add water
and minced parsley. Simmer ten minutes, add milk and reheat.
OYSTER STEW
UNTHICKENED
1 pint oysters Salt, pepper, paprika
4 tablespoons butter 1 quart rich milk
Put cleaned oysters, strained oyster liquor, butter and season-
ing into a saucepan and simmer gently until oysters begin to
curl at the edges. At the same time, heat the milk, being care-
ful not to scorch it. Add the hot milk to the oysters and oyster
liquor and serve at once.
THICKENED To the ingredients given above, add from four
to eight tablespoons of flour, and, if desired, a little onion-juice
and mace. Scald the oysters in their own liquor. Make a white
sauce of the milk, flour and butter and season as desired. Com-
bine the scalded oysters and oyster liquor with the white sauce
and serve at once.
YEAST BOUILLON
In recent years several varieties of autolyzed yeast have ap-
peared on the market to be used as bouillon or in sandwich
pastes. They have the flavor of strong meat extract but have
the advantage of being of pure vegetable origin. If purchased
in jars use according to direction. When in cubes use like any
other bouillon cube. Of peculiar value for the high content of
vitamins B and G, it is also called petite marmite.
SOUP ACCESSORIES
O OUP may be served with many accompaniments, such as
^ crisped crackers, cheese-sticks and pulled bread; and va-
rieties of croutons, forcemeat balls, noodles, and vegetable
pastes may be placed in the soup itself. Grated Parmesan
cheese is passed with many kinds of soup to be sprinkled on
each portion.
Recipes for some of the best-liked accompaniments for soup
are given below.
CROUTONS
Cut stale bread into slices about one-third of an inch thick,
and remove all crust. Spread with butter, cut in cubes and
bake in the oven until delicately browned. If preferred, these
cubes of bread may be fried in deep fat or sauted in just enough
fat to keep them from burning. Put into soup at time of serv-
ing, or pass in a separate dish, permitting each person to put as
many croutons as he may wish in his portion of soup.
MOCK ALMONDS
These are merely croutons shaped to represent almonds.
CHEESE STICKS AND ROLLS
Cut bread in long, narrow strips, spread with butter, then
with a thick coating of grated cheese. Brown in moderate oven
(350 F.). Or cut crust from sliced bread, spread thickly with
paste of grated cheese and butter, roll, fasten with toothpick
and brown as above.
HOT CRISPED CRACKERS
Toast thin wafers or crackers for three minutes in a hot oven
(400 -42 5 F.). They are better if spread with a thin film
of butter before being put into the oven. If Boston crackers
are preferred, split them, arrange the halves, rough side up, on
a plate, lay a bit of butter on each, and brown them in the
oven.
186
SOUP ACCESSORIES 187
VARIATIONS
Use the cookie cutters in any small design to cut sliced bread
for toasting on a cookie sheet or large pan. Or use the cutters
on biscuit dough and bake or fry in deep fat.
NOODLES
1 egg l /2 teaspoon salt Flour
Stir sufficient flour into a slightly beaten egg to make a very
stiff dough. Add salt, knead, and roll as thin as possible. It
should be of almost paperlike thinness. Cover with a towel
and let remain untouched for half an hour. Then cut in small
fancy shapes, and dry them. When needed, place in boiling
water and cook rapidly for fifteen minutes. This dough may
also be rolled into threads and used like macaroni in soup.
NOODLE BALLS Roll the noodle paste as directed above,
fold it double and with a tin cutter make circles about one-
fourth inch in diameter. Toss these balls into hot fat, (360-
370 F.) using a wire frying-basket. In about a minute they
will turn a delicate brown and puff into balls. Drain on soft
paper and serve with soup. As these soften quickly, it is better
not to put them in the tureen, but to pass them after the soup
has been served.
EGG BALLS
No. 1.
5 eggs 1 teaspoon salt
l /2 teaspoon pepper Flour
Simmer four of the eggs in the shell twenty minutes and
mash the yolks to a smooth paste in a bowl; then add the salt
and pepper and the other egg, well beaten. Shape the mass into
tiny balls, roll them in flour and saute, tossing them about while
frying to prevent their sticking to the pan. They *iay be made
some time before needed. Use the hard-cooked egg-whites for
a sandwich or a salad.
No. 2.
Mash the four cooked yolks to a paste, season, and mix with
the uncooked egg-yolk. Form into small balls. Roll them in
the uncooked egg-white, then in flour, and poach in hot water.
These are attractive in consomme.
I
P ACCESSORIES
D SALADS, BUY
i88
MARROW AND LIVER BALLS
2 tablespoons melted marrow Salt and pepper
1 egg Paprika
^/2 cup s fr bread-crumbs y$ teaspoon onion juice
Strain melted marrow through cheese-cloth, beat until creamy
and then add beaten egg. Season with salt, pepper and paprika,
add a little moist bread, and form into balls. Poach in boiling
water. Use 1 cup chopped liver instead of marrow for liver balls.
PATE A CHOUX
1 teaspoon butter 1 egg
2 l /2 teaspoons milk Salt
*4 cup flour
Heat butter and milk together. When at the boiling-point,
add the flour and a pinch of salt, stirring constantly. Remove
from the fire, beat in the unbeaten egg, and continue beating
until the egg is well mixed with the other ingredients. When
cool, drop small pieces from the tip of a teaspoon into deep,
boiling fat. When brown and crisp, drain on absorbent paper.
If desired, two tablespoons of grated Parmesan cheese may be
added to this recipe.
CUSTARD FOR GARNISHING
Allow two tablespoons of milk, cream, or consomme to each
egg. Mix well, season with salt and pepper, and pour into a
buttered mold, making the custard one-half inch thick. Set
the mold in a pan containing hot water and place in a slow oven
(300-350 R). When the custard is set, remove from the
oven and cool. Cut it into small pieces or fancy shapes. The
egg-white, the egg-yolk or the whole egg may be used in mak-
ing this custard.
CUSTARD ROYALE.
2 egg-yolks Salt and pepper
1 egg Cayenne
l /2 cup beef stock
Beat the yolks of the eggs slightly and then beat into them
the one whole egg. Add beef stock, a little salt, pepper and a
SOUP ACCESSORIES 189
few grains of cayenne. Pour the mixture into a shallow pan
or dish, so that the custard will be about one-half inch deep.
Set this pan into another holding water that is just below the
boiling-point and place both in a slow oven (300 -3 50 F.).
The custard should set without bubbling and without forming
a brown crust on top. "When cold, cut in fancy shapes with
vegetable-cutter. Use care in placing these in the soup, so that
they may not break. When used in consomme, they give the
name "Consomme Royale" to the soup.
CHICKEN FORCEMEAT
WHITE
2 breasts chicken (uncooked) 1 cup milk
5/2 teaspoon salt l / 2 blade mace
1 cup dry bread-crumbs % teaspoon pepper
3 tablespoons butter 2 egg-whites
Chop, pound and rub through a puree-sieve, the uncooked
breasts of chicken. There should be a full half-pint of meat.
Add salt and pepper. Boil together the bread-crumbs (no
crusts), milk and mace for ten minutes, or until cooked to a
smooth paste. Remove from the fire, put in butter and then
add the seasoned meat and the well-beaten whites of eggs. Stir
until all ingredients are thoroughly blended.
DARK Use dark meat instead of light and the yolks of the
eggs instead of whites. Chicken livers, also, may be used for
forcemeat.
FISH FORCEMEAT
Free any kind of delicate fish from skin, fat and bone.
Pound, strain, use one-half pint fish and proceed as for chicken
forcemeat.
OYSTER FORCEMEAT
12 oysters Cayenne
2 cups dry bread-crumbs 1 teaspoon parsley
3 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon lemon-juice
2 egg-yolks 3 tablespoons oyster-juice
1 teaspoon salt Nutmeg
Chop the oysters fine and add the bread-crumbs, butter, salt,
cayenne, minced parsley, lemon- juice, oyster- juice,^ the yolks
of raw eggs and a grating of nutmeg. Pound to a smooth
190
~^*j~~f
paste and rub through a puree-sieve. Add more salt if neces-
sary. This is a fine forcemeat for timbales, or for stuffing
poultry or fish. For use in soups, it may be made into balls,
dipped in beaten egg-yolks, then in bread-crumbs and fried, or
rolled into very small balls, dipped in egg-yolks and browned
in the oven.
QUENELLES These are shapes made by forcing forcemeat
through a pastry bag and tube into boiling water or stock.
They are used to garnish entrees as well as soups.
COLORING FOR SOUPS AND SAUCES
To color brown, use browned flour or a little burnt sugar.
(See Index for caramel recipe) or a few drops of commercial
vegetable flavoring.
Spinach leaves give a fine green color. Pound the uncooked
leaves, and add to soup five minutes before serving.
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*
-/ E A FfSiST A R S "flm&T R
FISH
THE main difference between fish from fresh water and
those from salt water, as food, is that the salt-water fish
are an important source of bromin and iodin in the diet,
and are considered desirable because of the value of iodin in
preventing goiter. Some of the most common salt-water fish
are cod, haddock, halibut, smelt, mackerel, salmon, shad,
herring, oysters, clams, scallops, lobsters, crabs, shrimps and
prawns, and some terrapins. Fish as food may be divided into:
WHITE FISH Fish that have less than two per cent fat,
examples of which are smelt, flounder, yellow perch, pike,
pickerel, sea bass, cod and haddock.
MEDIUM FAT FISH Fish that have two to five per cent fat,
examples of which are weakfish, brook trout, mullet, and white
perch.
FAT OR OILY FISH Fish that contain five per cent or more
of fat, examples of which are salmon, shad, herring, lake trout,
bluefish, Spanish mackerel, butterfish, and eels.
SHELLFISH Mollusks (oysters, clams, scallops and mussels) ;
crustaceans (lobsters, crabs, shrimps, prawns, crawfish or cray-
fish) ; reptiles (frogs, terrapins and turtles. The reptiles really
belong to a lower order of animal than fish, but as they spend
some time in the water they are discussed in this chapter.).
Amount of Fish to Buy
If the fish bought is solid flesh, one-third of a pound should
be allowed for each person. If fish is bought in the round
(with bones, head, tail, etc.) at least one-half pound must be
bought for each person.
Selecting and Caring for Fish
FRESH AND FROZEN FISH Fresh fish, or fish that was frozen
while fresh, has full or bulging bright eyes, bright red gills,
firm and elastic flesh and fresh odor. Be sure that the flesh
along the back-bone smells fresh; it spoils there first. Fresh
fish sinks in fresh water. If it floats, it should not be used.
191
192
*^/VXN^
As soon as fish comes from the market, clean it and put it
into the refrigerator or other cool place until it is needed.
Fish that is frozen immediately after it is caught, and is
kept frozen until the time for cooking does not lose its flavor.
It is preferable to clean and draw it without thawing, but if
it is too hard to handle soak in cold water or allow to thaw in the
refrigerator overnight until just flexible. Skinning is some-
times easier than scaling. Then it should be cooked at once with-
out further thawing. Quick frozen fish on the market today
is cleaned and ready for use. Cook at once without thawing,
allowing only slightly more than the usual time allotted to
broiling or baking as the case may be.
Cleaning and Dressing Fish
Although fish may have been cleaned and dressed at the
market, they are likely to need additional cleaning before they
are cooked. If any scales have been left on a fish that is to be
cooked with the skin on, remove them with a dull knife (a
sharp one might cut the skin) . Draw the knife over the fish,
from tail to head, slanting it toward the body of the fish at an
angle of about 45. If the fish is to be split, remove the head
and tail. Wash quickly under cold running water and wipe
the fish thoroughly, inside as well as outside, with a wet cloth.
Then wipe with a clean dry cloth and keep on a plate in a cold
place until ready to use.
To Skin a Fish
Remove the fins, cut off a strip of skin along the backbone,
and cut the skin around the gills. Pull the skin off with the
hand. If the flesh is soft, work slowly and closely follow the
skin with the 'knife, to avoid tearing the flesh.
To Bone and Fillet a Fish
Clean and skin the fish. Insert a sharp knife close to the
backbone at the tail end, and cut the flesh from the bone, work-
ing toward the head and keeping the knife as close as possible
to the bone. Small bones that adhere to the flesh or are em-
bedded in it must be removed with the fingers.
Large fish, such as cod and halibut, are easily boned; in fact,
PISH 193
they are usually purchased in slices. Fish with many bones,
like shad, can not be boned satisfactorily.
Flounders are often boned, to form fillets, and are served as
"fillets of sole." The English sole is seldom imported, and most
of the "fillet of sole" that is served in America is made from
the flounder, which has a white, delicate flesh similar to the
sole.
A fillet is merely a piece of fish without skin and bones.
Fillets look better on the serving platter if they are approxi-
mately the same size. Rolled fillets are called turbans. They
are fastened with wooden toothpicks to keep them in shape
during cooking, but the picks are removed before the fish is
served.
Salted, Smoked and Canned Fish
These may be had the year around. The following varieties
are likely to be in any market:
DRIED SALT FiSH-Cod, haddock, hake, pollack, and whit-
ing.
BRINE-SALTED FISH Herring, mackerel, mullet, salmon,
shad.
SMOKED FISH Carp, catfish, eel, finnan haddie, hake, hali-
but, lake trout, pollack, salmon, sturgeon, whitefish.
CANNED FISH Cod, haddock, herring, mackerel, salmon,
sardines, tunafish, oysters, shrimps, lobsters, clams.
PICKLED FISH Sardines, eels, sturgeon, oysters, clams, scal-
lops, lobsters and mussels.
To Freshen Salt Fish
Place the fish flesh side down in a large pan of fresh water, set
the pan in a cool place and let it soak from one to forty-eight
hours, changing the water several times. If the fish is to be
cooked in liquid, it will need a shorter time in water than if it is
to be cooked with very little moisture.
Boiled Fish
For boiling a large fish whole, a fish-kettle with strainer, a
large kettle with a wire frying-basket or a steamer is needed.
A plate in a piece of coarse muslin or cheese-cloth, kept for
194
this purpose, may be used for fish in small pieces. Clean the
fish, rub a little salt over it, wrap it in a cloth and place it in
the container in which it is to be boiled or steamed.
The fish must not be put into cold water, as that extracts
the flavor, nor into boiling water, as that breaks the skin, but
should be put into hot water, which may then be quickly
brought to the boiling-point. After the water boils, decrease
the heat so that it will simmer.
Use enough water to cover the fish, add one teaspoon of salt
and one tablespoon of vinegar or lemon- juice to every two
quarts of water. These whiten the flesh and make it firm as
well as season it. After the water begins to simmer, allow five
to ten minutes to the pound for small thin pieces and ten to
fifteen minutes to the pound for large thick pieces.
Fish That Are Good Boiled
WITH SUGGESTIONS FOR SAUCES AND GARNISHES
Fish
Codfish
Flounder
Haddock
Halibut
Mackerel
Salmon
Sheepshead
Snapper (red)
Sole (flounder)
Trout
creamy
Hoi-
Sauce
Butter sauce, caper
sauce, oyster sauce,
shrimp sauce
Bechamel sauce
Egg sauce
Bechamel sauce,
sauce, egg sauce,
landaise sauce
Caper sauce, parsley
sauce
Egg sauce, Hollandaise
sauce, Tartar sauce
Drawn-butter sauce
Mushroom sauce, tomato
sauce
Bechamel sauce
Horseradish sauce
Garnish
Parsley or cress
Chopped parsley
Parsley or cress
Parsley or cress
Cress, lemon, parsley
Parsley and lemon
Parsley
Parsley
If you wish to serve a whole boiled fish upright, as if swim-
ming, place a carrot inside the fish to make it retain its form,
and arrange the garnishings so that it will keep its position on
the platter. Bind the fish to the strainer with twine when
cooking. A fish retains shape and flavor better in a steamer
than when immersed in water.
FISH 195
To steam, place the fish on a plate in the upper part of a
steamer, allowing the same time as for boiling.
Boiled fish needs a rich sauce, such as egg sauce, Hollandaise,
Bechamel or drawn butter.
Fresh-water fish or other fish without much flavor may be
boiled in court bouillon (See Index). Stock in which fish has
been cooked may be made into fish chowder (See Index).
PICKLED SALMON
4 to 5 pounds salmon 1 grated nutmeg
2 quarts vinegar 6 blades mace
1 ounce peppercorns 1 tablespoon salad oil
Wrap the salmon in a fish-cloth and simmer in salted water
about three-fourths of an hour. Drain, wrap in a dry cloth
and set in a cold place till ready to use. For the pickle, use one
quart of the water in which the salmon was cooked, the vine-
gar, peppercorns, grated nutmeg and mace. Boil for a few
minutes, in a kettle closely covered to prevent evaporation of
the flavor. Cool. When quite cold, pour over the salmon;
then pour in the oil. Cover closely and place in a dry cool
place. This pickle will keep many months.
BONED HERRINGS
6 large herrings Parsley
Pepper Vinegar
Salt 6 slices buttered toast
Select fish with roes. Split, wash, scrape and remove heads,
roe, and backbone. Sprinkle generously with pepper, salt, and
minced parsley, then roll each piece tightly, beginning with the
neck, and tie with a string. Put into boiling water that is
seasoned with pepper, salt and vinegar and simmer ten or fifteen
minutes. Cut the roe in pieces and fry. Place the fish and roe
on buttered toast, garnish and serve.
Broiled Fish
To broil a whole fish, split the fish down the back, dry
thoroughly, sprinkle with salt, pepper and lemon- juice. Place
fish, flesh side down, on a well-greased wire broiler. Turn and
broil on skin side just enough to crisp the skin. Large fish are
cut into slices one inch thick, and broiled on both sides evenly.
ig6
Fish That Are Good Broiled
WITH SUGGESTIONS FOR SAUCES AND GARNISHES
Fish Sauce
Black Bass (split) Melted butter
Cod (sliced)
Flounder (split
or filleted)
Halibut (sliced)
Mackerel (split)
Pompano (split)
Salmon (sliced)
Shad (split)
Smelts (whole)
Melted butter
Tomato sauce,
sauce
lemon
Butter sauce, Hollan-
daise sauce, oyster
sauce
Maitre d'hotel sauce,
lemon sauce
Maitre d'hotel sauce
Anchovy sauce, caper
sauce
Maitre d'hotel sauce,
butter sauce
Remoulade sauce,
Bechamel sauce
Swordfish (sliced) Horseradish sauce
BROILED SMELTS
Garnish
Lemon, and parsley
Lemon
Parsley
Parsley, lemon
Lemon, cucumber,
parsley
Cucumber, cress or
lettuce salad
Chopped parsley
Parsley and radishes
Parsley
Parsley
1 tablespoon salt
l /2 tablespoon pepper
3 tablespoons flour
12 smelts
3 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon lemon-juice
Small smelts are not always split open and cleaned, but the
entrails are squeezed out carefully so as not to bruise the fish,
and the heads are sometimes left on. When the smelts are
large, however, cutting down the belly to remove entrails is
more satisfactory. Put butter, lemon-juice, salt and pepper in
a deep plate on the back of the stove where the fat will slowly
melt. On another plate, place the flour. Wash and wipe the
fish and roll it in the melted, seasoned fat, and then lightly in
the flour. Arrange on a double broiler and cook four or five
minutes over clear coals. Serve on a warm dish with remoulade
sauce.
Baked Fish
WHOLE LARGE FISH Dress and stuff the fish (See chapter
"Stuffings for Fish, Meat, Poultry and Game.") and sew up
the opening with a trussing-needle. If a white or medium fat
TYING PUTE AND SALMON IN
CHEESECLOTH WHEN BOILING,
WILL PRESERVE ITS BEAUTY
it
WHETHER BAKED OR PLANKED, ONLY
CAREFUL HANDLING
WILL BRING FISH
TO THE TABLE ^
LOOKING
ITS BEST
THE LORDLY LOBSTER IS ST
CRAT OF THE
m
FISH
197
fish is used, cut three or more slits in its sides and insert a strip
of salt pork in each. Fat fish needs no larding, it has fat enough
in itself.
Place a cloth or a rack in the bottom of a baking-pan. Upon
the cloth place a thin layer of minced salt pork and a few slices
of onion and tomato. Upon these place the fish itself. Dredge
with salt, pepper and flour and lay on more salt pork; place in
a hot oven (425 F.) add a cup of boiling water and cover.
Cook fifteen to twenty minutes to each pound, basting fre-
quently, adding water after each basting if necessary. After
the first fifteen or twenty minutes reduce the heat to 350 F.
Milk may be used instead of water in baking dry fish steaks. If
a dripping-pan is used, it is not necessary to add water, and fish
has more flavor if cooked without water.
SMALL FISH OR FILLETS Follow directions for whole large
fish, allowing a total baking period of twenty to thirty minutes.
Fish That Are Good Baked Whole
WITH SUGGESTIONS FOR STUFFINGS, SAUCES AND GARNISHES.
Fish
Bass (sea)
Bluefish
Stuffing
Bread stuffing
No. 1 or 2
Bread stuffing
No. 1 or 2
Cod
Haddock
Mackerel
Shad
Tilefish
Weakfish
Whitefish
Oyster stuffing
Pickle-caper
Pickle-
Bread
No.
Bread
No.
Bread
No.
Bread
No.
caper
stuffing
1 or 2
stuffing
1 or 2
stuffing
1 or 2
stuffing
1 or 2
Sauce
Tomato sauce
Sauce made by
boiling the stock
in pan plus one
large tablespoon
catchup and one
tablespoon
browned flour
mixed with cold
water
Oyster sauce
Drawn butter, egg,
sauce, Hollan-
daise sauce
Maitre d 'hot el
sauce
Lemon-juice
Egg sauce
Garnish
Tomato and
parsley
Parsley and lem-
on slices
Lemon
Lemon and pars-
ley
Lemon
Lemon, tomatoes
Parsley
Egg
Fish That Are Good Baked in Steaks, Cutlets or Fillets
WITH SUGGESTIONS FOR SAUCES AND GARNISHES.
Fish
Cusk
Flounder
Haddock
Halibut
Mackerel (horse)
Salmon
Sturgeon
Tile
Sauce
Egg sauce
Oyster sauce
Brown, Hollandaise,
tomato or mush-
room sauce
Lemon sauce
Drawn butter
Tomato sauce
Garnish
Lemon
Egg
Lemon
Tomatoes, peas, parsley
Lemon
Parsley and lemon
Parsley and lemon
FILLET OF FLOUNDER AU GRATIN
5 pounds flounder
2 tablespoons flour
3 tablespoons butter
1 cup fine bread-crumbs
1 bay-leaf
2 cups chicken stock
1 tablespoon lemon-juice
1 slice onion
Salt and pepper
Fillet and cut the fish into pieces about four inches long by
three wide. Oil a baking or gratin dish and lay the fillets in it.
Sprinkle salt and pepper over them and set in a cool place till
needed.
Rub together flour and butter; add onion, bay -leaf, chicken
stock, and salt and pepper as needed. Simmer gently twenty
minutes and then add lemon-juice, strain the sauce and pour
it over the fish. Season lightly with salt and pepper, sprinkle
bread-crumbs over the sauce and fish. Bake twenty minutes in
a hot oven (425 F.) and serve at once in the same dish.
HALIBUT CREOLE
2 pounds halibut
2 cups stewed tomatoes
1 cup water
3 cloves
1 slice onion
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon flour
Salt and pepper
Put the tomatoes, water, cloves and onion on the stove in a
Stewpan to boil. Mix the butter and flour together, stir them
into the sauce when it boils and add the salt and pepper. Cook
ten minutes and strain into a bowl.
FISH 199
Pour boiling water into a deep plate to the depth of one-
half inch, and lay the fish in it for one minute, skin side down;
when the fish is removed from the water, the black skin can
be taken off easily. Wash the fish in cold water, season with
salt and pepper and lay it on the baking sheet in a dripping-
pan, put sliced lemon on top, then pour half the tomato sauce
around the fish and bake in a hot to moderate oven (425 to
350 F.) for thirty to forty minutes, basting three times with
the remainder of the tomato sauce. Pour the sauce remaining
in the bottom of the pan around the fish on the serving platter.
Fried or Panned Fish
After cleaning, dry the fish, sprinkle with salt and pepper,
dip in fine bread-crumbs, flour or corn-meal, then in egg, and
again in crumbs, flour or corn-meal, and fry in deep fat. (See
Index for directions for deep-fat frying.) Small fish are cooked
in this way, with or without head and tail; also fish steaks,
fillets or turbans. The skin is usually removed. In some cases
(for example, the perch) if the skin has not been removed by
the fish dealer, it is very difficult to get it off. In this case, dip
for a moment into boiling water and remove at once.
FRIED FISH Small fish are fried whole; for example, smelts,
small flounders, whitebait, small whitings, small herrings, small
perch. Larger fish such as eels, halibut, cod, large flounder and
sole are cut in four-inch lengths or made into fillets or turbans
before frying.
Fried fish are usually served with Tartar sauce, anchovy sauce
or with lemon.
PANNED FISH Clean, wash and dry fish, rub in flour which
has been seasoned with salt and pepper or dip in egg and crumbs
and saute in a saucepan in a small amount of fat. Any fish
that can be fried can be panned.
FILLET OF SOLE OR FLOUNDER
2 pounds fillet of sole or Salt and pepper
flounder Crumbs, egg
A large sole or flounder will make four fillets. Roll up each
fillet, 'or cut into smaller fillets, season with salt and pepper, dip
in egg, then in crumbs and fry in deep fat (390 F.) four to
2OO
r*~r^*~r
six minutes. For variety, cut the fillets up, simmer half of the
small fillets in salted water from six to ten minutes and then
serve with the fried ones, having the boiled ones in the center
of the dish. Serve with a white sauce, or with Tartar sauce.
Planked Fish
Scale the fish. Split it down the back, clean, wash and wipe
dry as usual. Prepare a plank of oak or hickory, about one and
one-half inch thick, and put in the oven to heat. If using a
gas stove, place it directly under the gas in the broiler, having
the side which is to hold the fish nearest the flame.
Rub the fish all over with oil, salt and pepper. Lay it skin
side down on the plank, and put the plank on the upper grate
of the oven, or under the broiler of a gas stove. Cook about
one-half hour, spreading melted fat over the fish while it is
in the oven if there is a tendency to dryness. If the fish has
roe, the roe may be broiled on the plank beside the fish, or the
roe may be boiled, mixed with a little white sauce, well seasoned,
and spread over the thinnest part of the fish, five minutes before
it is finished, and covered with crumbs.
Have ready freshly mashed potato and form a border of this
around the fish by pressing it through a pastry-bag. Set the
plank in the oven until the potato has browned, then send to
table garnished with lemon and parsley.
The size of the plank will depend on the size of the oven,
but it must be at least three inches wider than the fish. White-
fish and shad are best for planked fish.
Fish Roe and Milt
The roe (eggs) of many fish, which are available during the
Spring, make excellent and often delicate food. Shad roe are
most frequently used, but the roe of mackerel and of flounder
are just as palatable and are usually much cheaper. When small
fish contain roe, do not cook the roe in the fish; remove it and
cook it as a separate dish.
To Prepare Roe for Use
Parboil it in salted, acidulated water (one tablespoon vinegar
or legion- juice to one quart water) and simmer eight to ten
minutes. Drain, cool, and pick out the pieces of membrane;
the roe is then ready for any recipe.
FISH 201
Milt
The part of the male fish that takes the place of the roe
of female fish is called the milt, and may be prepared and
cooked in just the same way. The blue vein that runs through
the center of salmon milt should be removed before the milt is
cooked.
BROILED ROE
Wipe, sprinkle with salt and pepper, put on greased wire
broiler, and broil five minutes on each side. Serve with maitre
d'hotel sauce.
SHAD ROE CAVIAR
1 cup shad roe J4 cup salt or Y 3 cup
prepared caviar
Mash the cooked roe very carefully, then mix with the salt.
Beat thoroughly and let it stand for an hour before serving. If
preferred, the shad roe may be mixed with prepared caviar
instead of salt.
SCALLOPED ROE
1 to 2 pounds shad roe Bread-crumbs
1 cup medium white sauce Chopped parsley
Egg-yolk Salt and pepper
Lemon-juice
Parboil roe as directed, drain and break up lightly with a fork.
Sprinkle a layer of roe in a baking-dish; add one-half the yolk
of an egg, well beaten, dropping it over the top of the roe, next
sprinkle lightly with minced parsley, salt and pepper to taste
and a few drops of lemon -juice; then add a layer of the white
sauce. Repeat the layers of roe, egg, seasoning and sauce, cover
with bread-crumbs and bits of butter and bake until brown. If
a large dish is required, use with the roe any cold flaked fish left
from a former meal. Any kind of roe may be prepared in this
way.
202
Canned or Warmed-over Fish
FISH SOUFFLE
1 cup cooked fish, fresh or 2 eggs
canned l /2 cup milk
1 cup mashed potatoes Salt and pepper
Mix cold cooked fish with mashed potatoes, milk, salt and
pepper. Stir in one egg, well beaten. Put into an oiled mold
or dish and set in the oven until hot. Beat the white of the
other egg stiff and stir into it the beaten yolk seasoned with salt
and pepper; heap this over the fish and brown.
FISH TIMBALE
1 cup cooked fish, fresh or 2 cups milk or cream
canned l /2 cup butter or other fat
l /2 cup cooked mushrooms Salt, pepper and nutmeg
1 cup bread-crumbs 4 eggs
Use any delicate fish, such as halibut, whitefish, cusk or sal-
mon. Remove the bones and skin, and pound the meat very
fine, so it may be rubbed through a soup-strainer. Mushrooms
mixed with the fish before it is strained will greatly improve
its flavor.
Cook bread-crumbs ten minutes in milk or cream. Remove
from fire and add melted butter or other fat, salt, pepper or
paprika and a few gratings of nutmeg. When this is cold, add
the fish, beat the whole thoroughly, add the eggs, also well
beaten, and place the mixture in a greased or oiled mold. Cover
the mold with oiled paper, set it in a deep baking-pan, place it
in the oven, and pour water into the pan until it is within one
inch of the top of the mold. Cook for three-quarters of an
hour at 250 F. Hollandaise and tomato sauce are both ex-
cellent to serve with fish timbale.
SALMON PUFFS
2 cups cooked salmon, fresh l /2 cup soft bread-crumbs
or canned 1 tablespoon lemon-juice
Salt and pepper 3 eggs
Remove the skin and bones from the salmon, chop the meat
fine, and add salt, white pepper or paprika, soft bread-crumbs,
FISH 203
lemon- juice or vinegar, and egg-yolks. Mix thoroughly, add
the well beaten egg-whites, and place in six or eight oiled cups,
filling the cups even full. Set the cups at once in a pan contain-
ing hot water that comes to about an inch below their tops, and
bake for one-half hour in moderate oven (375 F.). Turn
out upon a hot platter, thrust a sprig of parsley or celery, or a
clove, into the center of each puff, and pour about them any
desired fish sauce.
SALMON AU GRATIN
1 cup cooked salmon, fresh or Salt and pepper
canned 2 tablespoons lemon-juice
1 cup drawn-butter sauce Bread-crumbs, cheese
Flake the cold salmon, mix with the drawn butter, salt, pep-
per and lemon -juice. Fill little earthen dishes with the mixture,
cover with fine bread-crumbs, with or without cheese, and
brown in the oven at 400 F.
SALMON LOAF
2 cups cooked salmon, fresh 4 tablespoons butter
or canned Salt and pepper
2 eggs Minced parsley
l /2 cup fine bread-crumbs
Flake the fish, add the eggs beaten lightly, the melted butter,
the bread-crumbs, salt, pepper and minced parsley. Put into a
greased mold, and steam for an hour. When cold, arrange on
a platter and garnish with slices of lemon, cucumber, and pars-
ley.
TUNAFISH WITH CAPER SAUCE
2 cups cooked tunansh, fresh 1 1 /2 cups milk
or canned 3 tablespoons capers
2 tablespoons butter Paprika
2 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon minced parsley
l /2 teaspoon salt
If canned fish is used, turn it from the can on to a plate and
steam it until it is hot. In the meantime, melt the butter, stir
in the flour and salt, and gradually add the milk. Add the
capers. Transfer the fish to a platter, pour the sauce over it
and dust lightly with paprika and parsley.
Fresh cooked fish may be heated in the sauce, or heated
separately and served with sauce poured over it.
204
KEDGEREE
2 cups cooked fish, fresh or 1 cup cooked rice
canned Salt and pepper
4 tablespoons butter or other 2 hard-cooked eggs
fat
Free the fish from skin and bone. Melt butter in a saucepan,
add the fish and stir gently. Put in the rice, the whites of the
hard-cooked eggs, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Move gently about over the fire until thoroughly hot, and serve
on a flat dish with the yolks of the eggs, pressed through a
ricer, over the top.
SCALLOPED FISH
2 cups cooked fish, fresh or 2 hard-cooked eggs
canned 2 tablespoons butter
l /z cup mashed potatoes Salt and pepper
2 cups milk 1 cup bread-crumbs
2 tablespoons corn-starch
Heat all the milk, except one-fourth cup, in a double boiler;
add the corn-starch stirred up with the remaining cold milk;
cook twenty minutes, stirring frequently. Add one table-
spoon butter, rub smooth the yolks of the eggs and add them,
and then the whites after they have been passed through a
sieve. Flake the fish, add the potatoes and season with salt and
pepper. Oil a baking-dish, put in a layer of the fish mixture,
cover with sauce, add another layer of fish, then more sauce,
and so on until all is used. Cover the top with the bread-
crumbs, add small bits of butter and bake for fifteen minutes
in a moderate oven (3 50 -400 F.).
Dried and Salt Fish
CREAMED CODFISH
1 cup salt codfish 2 tablespoons butter
1 cup milk 2 tablespoons flour
1 egg
Separate the fish into very small pieces and leave in cold
water for three hours, changing the water three times. Heat
the milk in a double boiler. Add the codfish, well drained, and
FISH 205
cook for ten minutes. Mix the butter with the flour until a
smooth paste is formed, then stir it into the milk. Cook ten
minutes. Take the dish from the heat, add the beaten egg, stir
well and serve without further cooking, adding a sprinkling
of pepper just before dishing. If the sauce is cooked after the
egg is added, the milk is likely to curdle. The egg may be
omitted.
CODFISH A LA MODE
1 cup salt codfish 2 eggs
2 cups mashed potatoes 54 cup butter or other fat
2 cups milk or cream Pepper
Pick very fine and freshen salt codfish as in preceding recipe;
mix with mashed potatoes, milk or cream, well-beaten egg, but-
ter and pepper. Turn into a baking-dish and bake twenty or
twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven (3 50 -400 F.).
CODFISH BALLS
1 cup salt codfish 2 tablespoons butter or other
4 cups sliced raw potatoes fat
2 tablespoons milk or cream 1 egg
Pepper
If the fish is not already shredded, pick out all the bones and
shred the flesh. Simmer the fish and the sliced potatoes to-
gether in plenty of water until the potatoes are soft. Drain,
mash, and beat until fine and light; then add the pepper, fat
and milk, and the egg, well beaten. Mix all thoroughly with
a spoon. Shape into balls. Fry in a frying-basket in deep fat,
(375-390 F.) for two to five minutes.
CODFISH SOUFFLE
1 cup salt codfish 1 tablespoon butter or other
2 cups raw potatoes fat
2 tablespoons milk or cream Pepper
2 eggs
Place the fish and potatoes together in enough boiling water
to cover them, and let them boil until the potatoes are done.
Drain thoroughly, mash the potatoes and fish, and beat them
well with a fork, adding white pepper, butter, milk or cream.
The mass should be made light with vigorous beating. Then
206
S/N/Vf
beat in the well-stirred yolks of two eggs, and lastly, fold in
the well-whipped whites. Arrange the souffle in an oiled bak-
ing-dish and bake in a moderate oven (375 F.) about twenty
mihutes, until it is brown. Serve with cucumber pickles,
pickled peppers, horseradish or fresh cucumbers.
SALT FISH WITH EGG GARNISH
2 cups salt fish 2 cups milk
4 tablespoons butter or other 4 tablespoons flour
fat 2 hard-cooked eggs
Soak fish over night, cook in fresh water, flake. Make a white
sauce with the fat, flour and milk. Add the flaked fish to the
white sauce and pour on to a warm platter. Cut the eggs into
slices and arrange in a circle on top. Serve at once.
SALT MACKEREL
BOILED
1 salt mackerel 4 tablespoons flour
2 cups milk 4 tablespoons butter
Pepper
Clean the fish by scraping off rusty-looking portions and also
the thin black membrane found on the inside, and leave it over
night in plenty of cold water, with the skin side up. In the
morning, drain the fish and place it in a frying-pan, skin side
down, cover with fresh water, and slowly heat to the boiling-
point. Drain off this water, add just enough fresh water to
cover the fish and simmer until tender. Lift the mackerel out
carefully (a pancake-turner will be found convenient for such
work) and place it on the serving-dish in the oven to keep
hot while the gravy is being prepared.
To one cup of the water left in the frying-pan after the
removal of the fish, add the two cups of milk. When the
liquid boils, add the flour stirred to a paste with the fat, and
season with salt and pepper. Let the gravy boil slowly three
or four minutes, stirring constantly until smooth. Pour it
over the mackerel.
BAKED Prepare the fish as for boiling but place it in a shal-
low baking-pan just large enough to hold it, and pour over it
the milk. Bake twenty minutes in a hot oven (400 -42 5 F.)
stirring into the milk at the end of fifteen minutes a smooth
FISH 207
paste made of two tablespoons of flour and two tablespoons of
fat, with a sprinkling of pepper. Serve with the thickened milk
poured around the fish.
BROILED SALT FISH
Soak in tepid water twenty-four hours, changing the water
several times. At the hour wanted, broil, season to taste, dot-
ting with bits of butter. All kinds of salt fish may be broiled
in this way.
BROILED FINNAN HADDIE
1 finnan haddie Oil Lemon-juice
Soak the fish in cold water for three-quarters of an hour,
then lay in boiling water for five minutes. Wipe very dry,
rub oil and lemon-juice into the fish and broil over a clear fire
for fifteen minutes. Serve with hot butter sauce.
CREAMED FINNAN HADDIE
1 cup flaked finnan haddie, 1 cup medium white sauce
fresh-cooked or canned Salt, pepper, paprika
If the whole fish is used, put it in a baking-pan, cover with
cold water, and after soaking twenty minutes, bring the water
to a boil. Reduce the heat and allow it to simmer for one-half
hour. Drain, rinse, and with a fork separate the fish into flakes.
Canned finnan haddie should be steamed. To one cup of fish,
add one cup of medium white sauce. Bring to a boil; season
with salt, pepper and a liberal quantity of paprika.
Oysters
Oysters, to be safe and palatable food, must be perfectly
fresh. Buy them in the shells, if possible, and when purchas-
ing them without shells be sure that the liquor is clear; if it
is cloudy, the oysters should not be used.
Opening and Cleaning Oysters
To open an oyster, hold it firmly with the thick part of the
shell toward the palm of the hand. Wash the shell thoroughly.
Push a strong, thin knife between the shells near the back and
run it along until it cuts the strong muscle which holds the
208
shells together. Drop the oysters into a strainer, set over a
bowl, and save the liquor that drains through to be used in
cooking the oysters or making soup or sauce. Then examine
each oyster and with the fingers remove all particles of shell.
They are then ready to be used in any way desired.
OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL
Raw oysters are served either on the half shell packed in
crushed ice, on oyster plates, or in a block of ice. Allow to
each person five or six oysters and one-fourth of a lemon, and
pass with the oysters crackers or thin slices of delicately buttered
brown or graham bread.
OYSTER COCKTAIL
30 medium oysters 1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons prepared horse- 2 tablespoons vinegar
radish 4 tablespoons lemon-juice
3 tablespoons tomato catchup % teaspoon tabasco sauce
Where oysters in the shell are obtainable, they are usually
served on the half shell, on a plate of crushed ice, around a
small glass holding the cocktail mixture. When it is not pos-
sible to get the oysters in the shell, cocktails may be served in
ice shells made for this purpose, or in cases made from green-
pepper shells, in halves of grapefruit, or in large claret glasses.
Put five medium oysters into each glass and pour the dressing
over them. To make the dressing, mix horseradish, tomato
catchup and vinegar, lemon-juice, tabasco sauce, and salt
thoroughly. Both oysters and dressing should be very cold.
PANNED OYSTERS
1 pint large oysters % CU P oyster-juice
6 slices buttered toast
Lay the oysters in a shallow dripping-pan, and pour over
them a small quantity of oyster-juice, but not sufficient to raise
or float them. Place the dish carefully in a hot oven (400-
425 F.) and just heat the oysters through. Be careful not
to bake them. Moisten hot buttered toast with the hot juice
from the oysters and serve the oysters on the toast.
FISH 209
LITTLE PIGS IN BLANKETS OR OYSTER BUNDLES
24 large oysters Salt and pepper
24 very thin slices fat bacon Parsley
Season the oysters with salt and pepper. "Wrap one oyster
in each slice of bacon and fasten with a toothpick. Heat a
frying pan and put in the oysters. Cook on one side and then
on the other just long enough to crisp the bacon, about five
minutes. Cut slices of toast into quarters and place one oyster
on each small slice of toast. Serve immediately, garnished with
parsley.
CREAMED OYSTERS
1 pint oysters 6 tablespoons flour
4 tablespoons butter or other 1 pint rich milk
fat Salt and pepper
Heat the oysters in their own liquor until the edges curl.
Make a white sauce with the fat, flour and milk. Combine the
oysters and sauce, add seasoning and serve.
OYSTERS A LA POULETTE
1 pint oysters Nutmeg
1 1 /4 cups milk or cream 2\ egg-yolks or 1 whole egg
1 tablespoon butter 2 tablespoons flour
Salt and pepper Cayenne
Set the oysters on the stove to heat in their own liquor. As
soon as they begin to boil, skim carefully and turn them into
a strainer. Add one-half cup of oyster liquor to one cup of
milk or cream and make a white sauce with the fat, flour and
this liquid. Season with salt, pepper, a slight grating of nut-
meg and a grain of cayenne. Add one-fourth cup of cold
milk or cream to the well-beaten egg or yolks of eggs. Place the
oysters in the white sauce and add to the egg mixture. Cook
over hot water for three minutes, or until the eggs thicken,
stirring all the time; remove from fire immediately to pre-
vent separating. Serve with a border of puff-paste cakes,
buttered toast or baking-powder biscuit. If liked, one-half
tablespoon of lemon-juice may be added just as the oysters are
taken from the fire.
2IO
FRIED OYSTERS
1 pint oysters 2 eggs
1 y 2 cups milk 2 cups flour
1 teaspoon salt
Scald the oysters in their own liquor, and drain them
thoroughly on a cloth. Make a batter with the milk, egg, flour
and salt and dip the oysters in it. Fry a light brown, in deep
fat (375-390 F., two to five minutes) drain and serve.
Seasoned bread-crumbs may be used instead of the batter.
OYSTERS COOKED IN THE SHELL
30 oysters in the shell Salt
Butter Pepper
Wash the shells thoroughly by scrubbing with a brush. Place
in a baking-pan with the deep shell down. Set into a very
hot oven (450-500 F.) and bake until the shells open. Or,
cover the pan, set it over a pot of boiling water, and steam
until the shells open. Add a little butter, salt, and pepper to
each oyster and serve immediately in the shells.
OYSTERS EN BROCHETTE
30 large oysters 6 slices toast % pound bacon
Cut the bacon into thin strips and cut the strips into pieces
an inch or an inch and a half square. String the oysters and
bacon squares alternately on six long, slender steel skewers,
being careful to run the skewers through the hard part of
the oysters. Place the skewers across a narrow, deep baking-
tin so that the oysters will hang down but not touch the bottom
of the tin; leave space between the skewers so that the heat will
pass evenly around them. Cook in a very hot oven (450-
475 F.) for five minutes, or long enough to crisp the bacon.
Place a skewer on each slice of toast. Pour the juice in the
pan over the toast and serve immediately.
BROILED OYSTERS
30 large oysters Salt and pepper
Butter Bread-crumbs, if desired
Dry the oysters on a towel; sprinkle them with salt and pep-
per and lay them in an oyster broiler (a fine-mesh broiler).
FISH 211
Brown on both sides. Serve on a hot plate with melted butter
poured over them. The oysters may be rolled in bread-crumbs
before broiling, if preferred.
OYSTERS WITH MUSHROOMS
1 cup oysters 3 tablespoons butter or other
1 cup cooked mushrooms fat
(fresh or canned) 1 teaspoon onion- juice
V/2 cups milk ^teaspoon lemon- juice
3 tablespoons flour 2 egg-yolks or 1 egg
l /z teaspoon salt
Drain the oysters and put them into a hot pan. Cook until
the edges begin to curl, then remove to a hot dish. Make a
sauce by adding to the oyster liquor the juice from the mush-
rooms, and enough milk to make a pint. Thicken this with
the flour blended with the butter or other fat and cook two
to five minutes. Add chopped mushrooms, onion-juice, lemon-
juice and a little salt.
Beat the yolks of the eggs; add a little of the hot mixture,
slowly, then all of it. Add the oysters, and cook over hot
water until the sauce thickens, stirring constantly. Remove
from the fire and serve at once.
BAKED OYSTERS WITH SPAGHETTI
l /4 pound spaghetti l l /2 cups milk
1 pint oysters 2 tablespoons flour
Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons butter or other
1 cup bread-crumbs fat
% cup melted fat
Break the spaghetti into small pieces, boil it in plenty of salted
boiling water until it is quite tender, and then drain. Scald
the oysters in their own liquor, reserving the liquor. Oil a
baking-dish, put in a layer of the spaghetti and then a layer o
the oysters, season with salt and pepper, and repeat the layers
until all the oysters and spaghetti are used, finishing with a
layer of spaghetti. To the liquor from the oysters, add enough
milk to make a pint, reserving a small quantity to mix with the
flour. Scald the remainder, add the scalded milk to the
moistened flour, stir well and cook twenty minutes in a double
boiler. Take from the fire, add the melted fat and pour over
the layers in the dish. Top with bread-crumbs mixed with
212
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melted fat (see recipe for buttered crumbs), and bake in a
quick oven (400 -450 F.) just long enough to brown the
crumbs, about ten minutes.
OYSTERS SAUTEED
30 oysters Salt and pepper
Bread or cracker-crumbs Fat for sauteing
Drain the oysters well, season with salt and pepper and roll
in fine bread or cracker-crumbs. Place two or three tablespoons
fat in a saucepan and when it becomes very hot drop in enough
oysters to cover the bottom of the pan. When one side is
browned, turn the oysters carefully to brown the other side.
Add more fat as needed. The iron pancake griddle is often
used for this purpose, when many oysters are to be cooked at
one time. Serve very hot on toast.
SCALLOPED OYSTERS
1 pint oysters 6 tablespoons butter or other
2 cups soft bread-crumbs fat
l /4 cup milk Salt and pepper
Oil a baking-dish; put in a layer of crumbs, then a layer of
oysters, butter or other fat in little pieces, salt and pepper.
Repeat, ending with a layer of crumbs, with small pieces of fat
dotted over them. Do not have more than two layers of oysters.
Moisten with milk and oyster liquor mixed together. Bake in
a moderate oven (350-400 F.) until brown, about half an
hour, and serve in the same dish.
OYSTER CASINO
30 oysters in the shell Pepper and salt
Lemon-juice 30 one-inch squares sliced
Buttered crumbs bacon
Wash and open the oysters. Into each shell put a half -tea-
spoon of strained oyster liquor, a few drops of lemon- juice,
then the oyster sprinkled with pepper and salt and covered with
buttered crumbs. On each lay an inch square of bacon and set
in a hot oven (400 -450 F.) for ten or twelve minutes. Shal-
low ovenware dishes, with the half -shells embedded in coarse
salt, are excellent for this purpose. The salt keeps the shells
from tipping during baking. Where shells are not available.
FISH 213
arrange the oysters for each portion in a shallow ramekin.
These are excellent for Sunday-night supper or as a luncheon
dish.
DEVILED OYSTERS
1 pint oysters 1 cup milk or cream
3 tablespoons butter or other 2 egg-yolks
fat Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
Drain the oysters, chop them, not too fine, and drain again.
Make a white sauce with two tablespoons of the fat, the flour
and the milk, remove from the fire and add the beaten yolks,
the salt, pepper and parsley, and then the oysters. Fill small
ramekins with the mixture, sprinkle lightly with soft bread
crumbs, dot with fat, arrange in a baking-pan, and brown in a
quick oven (400 -42 5 F., about seven minutes).
Clams
Clams, like oysters, should be purchased in the shell whenever
possible. The shell opens when the animal dies, making it easy
to discard the bad ones. A dead clam is dangerous food.
If obtained the day before they are to be used, cover the
clams with cold water and sprinkle corn-meal over the top of
the water, using about one cup of corn-meal for a peck of
clams. Let them stand over night.
To open clams steam in tightly covered vessel and if the
clams are not to be served at once, remove them from the shells
and drop them into cold water, to keep them from becoming
tough. A peck will yield about a quart of clams without the
shells.
Cut off the siphons of large clams,, as that part is very tough,
and if the clams have not been treated with corn-meal, open
the stomachs with a pair of scissors and scrape out the debris.
Wash the clams well, to remove all sand.
CLAMS ON THE HALF SHELL
Small clams are served raw on the half shell, just as raw
oysters are served. (See Index.)
CLAM COCKTAIL
Follow recipe for oyster cocktail. (See Index. )'
214
CLAMS COOKED IN THE SHELL
STEAMED
30 clams in the shell Juice of l / 2 lemon
6 tablespoons butter Salt and pepper
The hard-shell clam is used for steaming. Scrub the shell
with a brush and wash free of sand in several waters. Steam
the clams in a steamer for ten minutes, or until opened. While
the clams are steaming, melt the butter and mix with the
lemon-juice, salt and pepper. Lay a napkin on a hot platter
and place the clams in their shells on this. Cover with a
second napkin and serve. In eating, remove the clam from
the shell and dip it into the sauce. The thin, tough part known
as the neck or siphon is not eaten.
ROASTED IN THE OVEN Prepare the clams as for steaming,
put them into a pan, set the pan in a hot oven (400-425 F.)
and bake until the shells open. Remove the top shell, being
careful not to spill the liquor. Arrange the clams in the half-
shells on plates and on each place a piece of butter and a little
pepper and salt. Add lemon- juice if desired. Serve imme-
diately.
CLAM-BAKE ROAST The seashore is the natural place for a
clam-bake, but it is possible to have one at any place where
there is a flat open space. Preparations should begin several
hours before the time set for the meal.
Make a circle of flat stones from two to four feet in
diameter, according to the size of the party and on this circle
build a hot fire of wood. Let this burn for two or three hours.
Then rake off the fire and cover the hot stones with fresh sea-
weed. On this lay fresh clams in their shells; also, if desired,
oysters, potatoes in the skins, corn in the husk, and anything
else that may be steamed. Cover with a thick layer of sea-
weed^ and over all spread a large piece of sailcloth, fastening
down the edges with stones. Leave for two or three hours;
remove the cloth and the top layer of seaweed, and rake out
the clams and other foods as needed.
The same materials may be cooked in a large kettle at home
using cheese-cloth between the layers, but will lack the fine
flavor of the real clam-bake.
FISH 215
CREAMED CLAMS
1 cup clams 2 tablespoons flour
1/2 cup milk 6 slices toast
1/2 cup clam-juice Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons butter or other Parsley
fat
Bake the clams in a pan, scalding them in their own liquor,
or steam them and then remove from the shell, being sure to
save the juice. Chop and add them to a white sauce made from
the milk, clam-juice, flour, seasoning, and fat. Serve on slices of
toast with parsley as a garnish.
DEVILED CLAMS
25 clams, fresh or canned 2 tablespoons bread-crumbs
1 tablespoon butter or other 2 egg-yolks
fat 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
2 tablespoons flour Salt and pepper
1 cup milk or cream
Drain the clams and rinse them in cold water. Make a white
sauce with the fat, flour, and milk or cream, and put in the
crumbs, the raw egg-yolks, and the parsley. Remove from the
fire, add the chopped clams, pepper to taste and salt if needed,
fill scallop or clam shells, or small ramekins, with the mixture,
brush them over with beaten yolk of egg, sprinkle with bread-
crumbs, and brown in a hot oven (400 K).
FRIED SOFT CLAMS
Wash soft clams (fresh or canned) and drain them upon a
soft cloth, wiping them dry. Then dip each clam first into
beaten egg and next into bread-crumbs, and, if much breading
is liked, dip them again into the egg and crumbs. Have a sauce-
pan containing hot fat (390 F.) about an inch deep. If you
have no thermometer, test the fat by dropping in a bit of the
soft part of bread. It should color to a golden hue in from
40 to 50 seconds. Lay the clams in the fat, one at a time
but as quickly as possible, and cook them until brown (about
one to two minutes) , Serve very hot.
2l6
SCALLOPED CLAMS
18 opened clams 48 very small dice of fat
6 large clams in shell bacon
White pepper 4 tablespoons cracker-dust
2 tablespoons minced celery 2 tablespoons butter or other
fat
Have the clams opened carefully, so that the shells will not
be broken. Clean the shells well with brush and water. Lay
two clams in each half shell, dust with white pepper, and one-
half teaspoon of minced celery, and add four of the bacon
dice; cover with a very thin layer of cracker-dust, put a half
teaspoon fat on top and bake in the oven (3 50 -400 F.) fif-
teen to thirty minutes.
Scallops
The nearly round, ribbed shell of the scallop is known to
many who have never seen the scallop itself. Only those who
live in seashore towns ever see the whole bivalve, as the non-
edible portions are discarded before the edible part, the large
adductor muscle, is sent to market.
FRIED SCALLOPS
1 pint scallops, fresh or Cracker-crumbs
canned Beaten egg
Salt and pepper
Wash the scallops, drain them and dry them thoroughly.
Season fine cracker-crumbs with salt and pepper, dip the scallops
in beaten egg, then in the crumbs, and fry in hot fat 360 F.^
for two minutes. If preferred, they may be simply seasoned
and rolled in flour and then fried. Serve with Tartar sauce.
BROILED SCALLOPS
Use recipe for broiled oysters. (See Index.) Either fresh or
canned scallops may be used.
I
s.
FISH 217
CREAMED SCALLOPS
1 pint scallops, fresh or 1 pint thin white
canned sauce
"Wash and drain the scallops, add them to the sauce and cook
about fifteen minutes in a double boiler.
Sea Mussels
Sea mussels are as agreeable to the taste as oysters, and may
be eaten when oysters are out of season. Canned mussels are
obtainable nearly everywhere. When fresh mussels are used,
the shells may be opened by steaming, or with a knife. The
horny "beard" must be removed and discarded.
PANNED MUSSELS
30 mussels in the shell Cayenne
2 tablespoons butter Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons flour Lemon-juice
Wash the shell with a brush in cold water, and open by steam-
ing. Remove the mussels from the shells, place them in a
saucepan, add the butter, salt and pepper, cayenne, and a dash
of lemon-juice. Mix the flour with an equal quantity of cold
water and rub out all the lumps, then add more water to make
it about as thick as rich cream. Pour in a thin stream into the
hot mixture, stirring constantly. As soon as the boiling-
point is reached, remove from the fire and serve. Mussels, like
oysters and clams, are made tough by over-cooking.
FRIED MUSSELS
Use recipe for fried oysters. (See Index.)
CREAMED MUSSELS
Use recipe for creamed oysters. (See Index.)
Lobster
Lobsters are in season from June to September, and it is possi-
ble to obtain them at any time of the year. The shell of a live
218
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lobster is usually a mottled dark green. Boiling makes the shells
of all lobsters turn bright red.
Uncooked lobsters should be alive when purchased. In buy-
ing a boiled lobster, straighten its tail; if it springs back into
place, the lobster was alive, as it should have been, when boiled.
To Boil and Dress a Lobster
Plunge the live lobster into boiling water, head downward.
Add one tablespoon of salt, cover the kettle and keep it boiling.
A medium-sized lobster will cook in about twenty minutes.
Plunge it into cold water when done and when cool enough to
handle, take the meat from the shell in the following order:
Chop off the claws. Split the body lengthwise, remove and
throw away the stomach, a small sac just back of the head.
Running from the stomach to the base of the tail is the in-
testinal canal. If this does not pull out with the stomach, it
must be lifted out with a fork, in pieces, if necessary, and re-
moved entirely.
Crack the claws and remove the meat. If the lobster is not
to be served whole, take out the meat from the body, the
creamy green fat which constitutes the liver, and the coral or
spawn found in female lobsters. The spongy particles between
the meat and shell are not used.
In cutting up the meat of cooked lobster, always use a silver
knife or one of stainless steel, if possible, as an ordinary steel
knife discolors or darkens the meat.
COLD LOBSTER EN COQUILLES, WITH
MAYONNAISE
This is simply cold boiled lobster, served in the shell, a spoon-
ful of mayonnaise, colored red with the coral of the lobster,
being laid on top of the lobster meat and the whole served in
a bed of lettuce leaves. Canned lobster meat also makes a very
nice dish served with lettuce and mayonnaise.
BROILED LIVE LOBSTER
1 lobster Melted butter
Salt and pepper
Kill the fish by inserting a sharp knife in its back between
the body and tail shells, severing the spinal cord. Split length-
FISH 219
wise, remove the stomach and intestinal canal, crack the large
claws and lay the fish as flat as possible. Brush the meat with
fat; season with salt and pepper, place in a broiler, with the
shell side down, and broil slowly until of a delicate brown.
Twenty minutes is usually long enough. Turn the broiler and
broil for ten minutes longer. Serve hot, with melted butter.
BAKED LIVE LOBSTER
Prepare as for broiling. Lay the lobster in a baking-pan, shell
side down, season with salt, pepper and butter. Bake about
forty minutes in a hot oven (400 F.), basting it twice with
melted butter.
LOBSTER FARCI
2 lobsters 1 tablespoon parsley
1 cup milk Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon butter Nutmeg
1 tablespoon flour 3 egg-yolks, hard cooked
2 tablespoons bread-crumbs
Boil the lobsters and cut the meat into small pieces. In open-
ing the lobsters be careful not to break the body or tail shells.
Make a white sauce with the milk, butter and flour. Remove
from the fire and add the crumbs, parsley, lobster, salt and pep-
per, a grating of nutmeg and the yolks of the eggs mashed very
fine. Mix all well together. "Wash the shells and wipe them
dry, and with a pair of scissors cut off the under part of the
tail shells. Join the large ends of both tail shells to one body
shell, to form a boat-shaped receptacle. Put the lobster mixture
into this boat, brush over the top with beaten egg, sprinkfe
lightly with bread-crumbs, and bake in a moderate oven (350-
400 F.) fifteen to thirty minutes.
CREAMED LOBSTER, SALMON OR TUNA
No. 1.
2 tablespoons butter or other 1 teaspoon salt
fat 1 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons flour 2 cups boiled or canned lobster,
1 cup milk salmon or tuna
Make a white sauce with the fat, flour and milk. Add sea-
food cut into small pieces and the salt and pepper. Some cooks
add a teaspoon of curry-powder.
22O
No. 2.
2 cups fresh or canned 3 eggs
lobster 2 teaspoons anchovy sauce
1 cup milk 3 tablespoons cream
1 cup soft bread-crumbs Salt, pepper and cayenne
Heat the milk and pour it over the bread-crumbs. When
nearly cold, add the beaten eggs, the lobster chopped fine,
anchovy sauce, salt and pepper, and a large pinch of cayenne.
Stir well, then add cream. Pour into an oiled mold, cover with
an oiled paper and steam one hour. Serve with anchovy or
other fish sauce.
DEVILED OR SCALLOPED LOBSTER
2 cups fresh or canned lobster Nutmeg
1 cup soft bread-crumbs 1 tablespoon butter or other
1 hard-cooked egg fat
2 teaspoons lemon-juice 1 tablespoon flour
Salt 1 cup milk
Cayenne
Cut the lobster meat into dice. Add one-half cup of bread-
crumbs, the egg chopped very fine and the lemon -juice, season-
ing generously with salt and cayenne pepper and a grating of
nutmeg. Make a white sauce of the fat, flour and milk. Add
the white sauce to the lobster mixture to make a paste. Fill
scallop-shells or shallow ramekins with the mixture, smooth
the tops, sprinkle with remaining bread-crumbs and bake in a
moderate oven (3 50 -400 F.) from fifteen to thirty minutes.
LOBSTER WITH CORAL SAUCE
No. 1.
1 medium-sized lobster 2 tablespoons flour
3 tablespoons butter or other 1 pint boiling water
fat 2 tablespoons lemon-juice
Cut the meat of the boiled lobster into small pieces and mash
the coral with a tablespoon of fat. Rub the flour and the rest
of the fat to a smooth paste. Add boiling water and cook five
minutes, then add the coral and butter and lemon- juice. Sim-
mer for four minutes. Strain the sauce over the lobster meat^
place the whole on the fire and boil up once.
FISH 221
No. 2.
1 medium-sized boiled lobster l /z pint drawn-butter sauce
Salt and pepper
Break up the coral and put it on a paper in a slow oven
(250-300 F.) for thirty minutes. Then pound it and set it
aside. Chop the lobster meat, not too fine, and add it to the
sauce, also putting in a pinch of the coral and salt and pepper to
taste. The effect is spoiled if the lobster is cut too fine. The
sauce should be like a creamy bed for the lobster. Serve in a
shallow dish with the pounded coral sprinkled over the top.
Crabs
The blue crab, found on the Atlantic Coast and in the Gulf
of Mexico, is about two and one-half inches long by five inches
wide. The Dungeness crab of the Pacific Coast is much larger.
Crabs go through a molting season, in the Spring and Summer.
During the few days between the shedding of the old shell and
the hardening of the new one, they are called soft-shell crabs.
At other times, they are called hard-shell crabs.
Oyster crabs are tiny, almost transparent, grayish-white
crabs found in the shells with oysters. They are often served
in oyster stews.
Dressing Crabs
All uncooked crabs should be vigorously alive when pur-
chased, or the meat is not good. To prepare them for cooking,
proceed as follows:
SOFT-SHELL CRABS The back of the crab tapers to a point
at each side. Lay the crab on its face, take one of these points
between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand and pull the
shell back about half-way. Pull off all the spongy substance
which is thus exposed. Repeat the operation at the point on
the opposite side. Pull off the tail (apron) which laps under
the crab, and the spongy substance under it. Wash the crabs
in cold water, and they are ready for cooking.
HARD-SHELL CRABS Throw the live crabs head first into
rapidly boiling water. After five minutes, add one tablespoon
of salt and boil for thirty minutes. When cold, break off the
apron, or tail. Take the crab in both hands, with the thumbs
at the tail end, and pull the upper and lower shells apart. Dis-
222
wx>^
card the material that sticks to the upper shell and pull off
all the orange waxy material and white spongy substance be-
tween the halves of the body and at each side. The edible part
of the crab lies in the two compact masses remaining, and in
the small flakes that may be extracted from the large claws.
The latter must be broken with a cleaver or hammer.
BROILED SOFT-SHELL CRABS
6 soft-shell crabs Salt and pepper
l /4 cup butter or other fat % teaspoon cayenne
2 tablespoons lemon-juice Flour
Prepare the crabs as directed. In a deep plate melt butter
or other fat, and add lemon-juice, salt, pepper, and cayenne.
Roll the crabs first in this mixture, then in dry flour. Place
them in a double broiler and broil over hot coals eight minutes.
FRIED SOFT-SHELL CRABS
6 soft-shell crabs Sifted bread-crumbs
Egg Salt and pepper
Oil
Prepare the crabs as directed, dip them in beaten egg, then
in sifted bread-crumbs seasoned with salt and pepper. Fry in
deep fat (360 F.) three to five minutes. Or, saute in a fry-
ing-pan with just enough fat to keep them from scorching.
Turn so that both sides are cooked.
DEVILED CRABS
12 hard-shell crabs or 1 cup milk or cream
2 cups crab-meat 2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon mustard 1 l /z cups soft bread-crumbs
1 teaspoon salt Nutmeg
3 tablespoons butter or other l /2 tablespoon chopped parsley
fat l /2 tablespoon lemon-juice
Prepare the crabs as directed. Wash the upper shells
thoroughly. Heat the milk or cream in a small saucepan;
thoroughly mix the flour and mustard and two tablespoons of
the fat and stir the scalded milk or cream into this mixture.
Boil two minutes, remove from the fire and add the crab-meat
and seasonings. Mix well, and put the mixture into six crab
FISH 223
shells. Sprinkle with the crumbs and place the remainder of the
butter, cut in small pieces, on top of the crumbs. Cook on the
grate in a hot oven (400 F.) until the crumbs are brown.
Serve on a bed of parsley, garnishing with the claws.
CRAB COCKTAIL
Follow recipe for oyster cocktail. (See Index.)
CREAMED CRABS
12 hard-shell crabs or 1 tablespoon butter or other
2 cups canned crab-meat fat
1 tablespoon flour Salt and pepper
l /z cup milk Cayenne
Prepare the crabs as directed. To white sauce made from
the fat, flour and milk, add the shredded crab-meat and season
with salt, pepper and cayenne. Serve very hot in individual
cases, patty shells or on toast.
SCALLOPED CRABS
l l /2 cups crab-meat, fresh 2 cups milk
or canned Parsley
5 tablespoons butter or other 1 teaspoon onion-juice
fat Salt and pepper
4 tablespoons flour 1 cup soft bread-crumbs
Make white sauce of four tablespoons of the fat, flour and
milk, add a little chopped parsley, onion- juice, salt and pepper.
Mix this with the crab-meat and one-half cup bread-crumbs.
Fill shells or ramekins, place crumbs on top, dot over with one
tablespoon butter, and bake in a moderate oven (3 50 -400
F.) from fifteen to thirty minutes.
FRIED OYSTER CRABS
1 pint oyster crabs Flour
Place crabs in sieve and hold under a cold-water faucet.
Drain, roll in flour and fry in deep fat (360 F.) for two to
three minutes, using a frying-basket. Drain on paper and
serve on a napkin laid on a platter. Garnish with four lemon-
baskets holding Tartar sauce. Or, fill pastry or paper cases
with the fried crabs and serve very hot.
224
OYSTER CRABS AND WHITEBAIT
1 cup oyster crabs Flour
1 cup whitebait
Mix equal quantities of oyster crabs and whitebait, both of
which have been previously washed, drained and rolled in flour,
and fry in deep fat (360 F.) for two to three minutes. Serve
with Tartar sauce.
Shrimps and Prawns
Shrimps and prawns are very similar, but the prawn is larger
than the shrimp; the former is often six or seven inches long,
while the latter is seldom more than two inches.
To PREPARE FRESH SHRIMPS, simmer them in salted water,
wash and drain. Remove the shell carefully, also the black line
that runs the length of the body.
CREAMED SHRIMPS
2 cups cooked shrimps, 4 tablespoons flour
fresh or canned 2 cups milk
2 tablespoons butter or other Salt and pepper
fat
Make a white sauce with the fat, flour and milk, add shrimps,
whole or broken into small pieces. When thoroughly heated,
add seasoning and serve.
SCALLOPED SHRIMPS
2 cups cooked shrimps, 1 cup bread-crumbs
fresh or canned 2 cups boiling water
4 tablespoons butter or other 1 teaspoon lemon-juice
fat 1 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons flour 1/2 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon mustard
Prepare shrimps as directed. Melt three and one-half table-
spoons of the fat in a saucepan. Add the flour and mustard and
beat until light. Gradually pour the hot water on this. Place
the saucepan on a fire, and stir the contents until they begin to
boil. Add the lemon-juice, salt and pepper, and cook for six
minutes, then stir in the shrimps. Turn the mixture into a shal-
FISH 225
low scallop-dish, cover with the bread-crumbs and dot with the
half-tablespoon of butter broken into little bits. Bake for
twenty minutes in a moderate oven (350 F.).
DEVILED SHRIMPS
1 cup shrimps, fresh or canned 3 hard-cooked eggs
3 tablespoons butter or other Paprika
fat 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
4 tablespoons flour Few drops onion-juice
2 cups milk Buttered crumbs
Prepare shrimps as directed. Melt the fat, add the flour and
stir until smooth. Add the milk, heat, stirring constantly, and
when it begins to thicken, add the eggs, which have been put
through the sieve. Cut the shrimps with a silver knife, and
add to the sauce; season with the paprika, parsley, and onion-
juice. Put the mixture in ramekins, cover with seasoned
crumbs, and brown in a quick oven.
Fresh- Water Crawfish
Crawfish, or crayfish, look like lobsters, but are much smaller.
They may be prepared and served in the same way as lobsters.
Cook the crawfish in boiling salted water, drain, and remove
the shell. Take out the intestines by pinching the extreme end
of the center fin and jerking it suddenly. This removes the
gall-cyst, which is very bitter.
Frogs
Frogs' legs (hindquarters only) are considered quite a deli-
cacy. The skin can be turned over and slipped off the legs,
like a glove taken off inside out.
FRIED FROGS' LEGS
6 frogs' legs Salt and pepper
1 egg Fine bread-crumbs
Lemon-juice
Skin the legs and wash them in cold water; dry well on a
towel or napkin. Season with salt, pepper and lemon-juice.
Beat the egg, and season it with salt and pepper; dip the legs into
226
r*S>~^S
the egg, then into dried bread-crumbs or fine cracker-crumbs,
plunge them into deep fat (390 F.) and fry two to three
minutes. Use a wire frying-basket, if possible. Frogs' legs are
served for breakfast or luncheon and for the latter meal they
are accompanied by Tartar sauce.
Turtles and Terrapins
These animals should be alive when purchased. If the large
southern variety, the soft-shell or snapping turtles are used, cut
off the head and let the turtle lie in cold water one-half hour
or hang on a hook with neck down until blood stops dripping.
Then wash and drop into boiling water and cook for ten
minutes. Pour off the water and cover the turtle with cold
water, letting it stand until cool enough to handle easily; then
with a towel rub the nails and black skin from the legs.
Wash the turtle carefully, place it in a saucepan covered
with boiling water and simmer until the flesh is tender. This
will be when the joints of the legs can be broken with a slight
pressure, and the shells separate easily. It will take from thirty
to sixty minutes. It should be cooked until the skin is like
jelly. Remove the turtle from the water, and after it has cooled
a little, place it on its back with the head away from you, and
loosen and remove the under shell.
The liver, gall bladder and sand bag will be found near the
head end, the gall being attached to the left side of the liver.
Take out the gall as you would that of a chicken, being care-
ful not to break it. Remove the entrails and throw them away.
Take out the eggs, if there are any, remove the slight mem-
brane and drop them into cold water. Cut all the meat very
fine, saving any water that may collect in the shells. The turtle
is now ready to use in a stew or in other ways.
If terrapin is used, wash and plunge it alive into boiling
salted water, and cook for about ten minutes. Then plunge
it into cold water, rub off the toe nails and dark skin, place
it again in salted boiling water and cook until the legs are
tender, from thirty to sixty minutes. Clean the terrapin ac-
cording to directions for turtles, but instead of throwing away
the small intestines, cut them in very small pieces and use them
for food. Discard the thick, heavy part of the intestines.
FISH 227
TERRAPIN OR TURTLE A LA KING
2 cups cooked terrapin or 2 cups cream or rich milk
turtle meat Salt and pepper
6 yolks hard-cooked eggs Allspice
2 tablespoons butter or other Nutmeg
fat
Mash the yolks of the hard-cooked eggs and mix them with
the fat. Put the cream or rich milk into a double boiler; when
it is scalded, stir in the egg and fat mixture and beat till smooth;
season with salt, pepper and gratings of allspice and nutmeg.
Add the terrapin or turtle meat cut fine and simmer for ten
minutes. Serve very hot. Terrapin is very often served in indi-
vidual metal cups or saucepans with covers.
TERRAPIN WITH MUSHROOMS
1 pint cooked terrapin meat Yz pint chopped mushrooms
1 pint medium white sauce Six slices toast
To white sauce add terrapin cut in inch pieces and chopped
mushrooms. Cook in double boiler for twenty minutes, or
until thoroughly hot. Serve on toast.
SHRIMP CREOLE
1/2 medium-sized onion, Dash of cayenne
chopped y 4 teaspoon thyme
y 2 cup chopped mushrooms 1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons butter 2 pimientos, chopped
2 tablespoons flour 2 cups cooked shrimps
1 cup mushroom broth 4 wheat biscuits
1 cup water Butter
1/2 teaspoon salt 3 sprigs parsley
y & teaspoon pepper
Saute onion and mushrooms in butter 3 minutes; stir in flour
and cook 1 minute, then add liquid gradually and cook until
thickened, stirring constantly. Add seasonings and shrimps and
cook 5 minutes. Serve on wheat biscuits, cut in half length-
wise, toasted and buttered, and garnish with parsley, or in ring
molds of rice or spaghetti.
MEAT
THE name meat is given generally to all edible flesh of ani-
mals used for food. The name beef is used for the flesh
of adult cattle; veal for the flesh of calves under one year of
age; pork for the flesh of swine; mutton for the flesh of adult
sheep and lamb for the flesh of sheep from six weeks to one
year old.
SELECTION OF MEAT
There are certain characteristics of good meat which serve
as a guide to the purchaser. Flecks of fat all through the fibers
indicate tenderness and flavor. Thin connecting tissue means
a tender cut; thick tissue, a tough one. Meat well ripened or
hung some time after slaughter is more tender than freshly
killed meat. Meat of any kind should have a fresh odor and
no dark, dry edges or spots.
Beef
Good beef should have a bright red color and a moist juicy
surface when freshly cut; firm, fine-grained muscle; dry,
crumbly suet, white in color; and a thick solid edge of straw-
colored fat.
Veal
Veal should be at least six weeks old before slaughter. The
sale of "bob" veal is prohibited in many states; it is soft and
of poor flavor. Prime veal should be a faint pink color with
little or no edge of fat. Flecks of fat in the meat should show
a pinkish tinge. Milk-fed veal is particularly good.
Pork
Pork should have firm white flesh with a faint pink tinge.
The fat should be clear white. Pork of dull appearance, with
yellowish lumps through the meat or fat should be avoided.
228
MEAT 229
Lamb and Mutton
Lamb may be distinguished from mutton by the bones. In
young lamb, the bones are slightly streaked with red and the
joint is serrated. The joint of mutton is smooth and round.
Lamb or mutton should have a deep pink flesh, hard white kid-
ney fat, thin edge fat of a pinkish tinge, and firm, fine-grained
fibers. The outer skin and fat of mutton should be torn off
before the meat is cooked.
Glands and Organs
LIVER Calf's liver is often considered most choice in tender-
ness and in flavor. Lamb's, however, is equally good and often
cheaper in price. Pig's liver is good, and even beef liver is
acceptable if properly prepared.
Because of its value as an iron-rich food, liver is used exten-
sively in the prevention and treatment of anemia.
KIDNEYS Calf's kidneys are best. Lamb's kidneys are good
if the lamb is young.
SWEETBREADS Sweetbreads from the young calf or lamb
are used. There are two kinds, those in the throat and those
near the heart. Those near the heart are round and compact
and are considered slightly more desirable than those in the
throat. Sweetbreads spoil quickly, therefore they should not
be kept very long.
HEART Calf's and lamb's hearts are more tender than those
from beef or mutton.
TONGUE Calf's and lamb's tongues are most desirable. The
tongue of older animals may be used in some recipes.
BRAIN Calf's brains are most desirable. Although a deli-
cacy, there is so little demand for them that in many markets
they may be purchased cheaply.
TRIPE A part of the stomach of a ruminant that from
the ox is the one usually used for food.
Amount of Meat to Buy for Each Person
Meat shrinks from one-third to one-half in cooking. There-
fore allow one-fourth pound of meat without bone for each
serving, and one-half pound of meat consisting of lean, fat
and bone as a minimum for each serving.
230
Cuts of Meat
Animals dressed for market are divided lengthwise through
the backbone into two parts, each of which is called a side.
Each side is divided again into two parts, the forequarter and
the hindquarter. Each quarter is then divided into smaller
cuts which are sold in the retail market.
Comparative Cost of Various Cuts
As a general rule the price of the different cuts of meat is
determined by considerations such as tenderness, grain, general
appearance and convenience of cooking rather than by food
values in terms of fat or protein, or the ease with which they
are digested. The cheapest cuts for lean meat are the neck and
the two shanks. The cheapest for general use are the shanks,
plates and chuck. The cheapest cuts for fat and lean are the
neck, shank and plate.
Beefsteaks, in the order of their economy as food, range as
follows: chuck, round, flank, sirloin, and club or Porterhouse.
Of the roasts of beef, the cheapest in terms of lean meat is the
rump and most expensive is the first cut of the prime ribs. For
stews and boiling, the neck and shank are less expensive than
the rib ends and the brisket.
CARE OF MEAT IN THE HOME
As soon as meat comes from the market, the wrapping-paper
should be removed, and the meat should be put on a granite
or porcelain plate and placed in the refrigerator or other cool
place.
Before cooking meat, wash quickly under running water,
remove outer membrane and inspection stamp. In hot weather,
if meat is to be kept any length of time and there is any danger
of its spoiling, it may be seared on the outside on a hot griddle
or may be plunged into boiling water and kept there for five
minutes; lamb, mutton, or veal may be partly cooked. It should
then be cooled as quickly as possible, uncovered, and put into
the refrigerator or other cool place. If meat has become slightly
"strong," it may be rubbed with salt and the salt wiped off
LAMB CHART
Petal I Cuts Who , esa/eCufs Retail Cuts
Leg of Lamb
(Three cuts from one leg)
Roast Broil Stew. Braise
Lamb Crown Frenched
Roast Rib Chops
.Roost Broil
Loin English Rolled Loin
Lamb<
Lamb Chop Lamb Chop of Lamb
Broil or Panbroil Roast-
Square Cut
Lamb
Shoulder
Arm Blade
Lamb Chop Lamb Chop
Broil Roost
Cushion Saratoga
Lamb Shoulder Lamb Chops
Roast Broil
Rolled Breast Lamb Breast
Roast or Braise
Polled Boneless
Lamb Shoulder Shoulder Chops
Roast Broil
Lamb Nech Slices
Braise
Lamb Shanns
Braise or Stew
National Live Stock and Meat Board
BEEF CHART
Retail Cuts Retail Cuts
Wholesale Cuts
Ground Beef Heel of Round
Koost w Broil - Brain of S/mmw-
Hind Shank
Soup or Simmer
(Porterhouse T Bone ciub
Steak Steak steak
Broil or Ponbroil
;he Rolled Short
Beef Plate Ribs
Simmer or Braise
Standing Rolled Rib
Rib Roast Rib Roast SteaR
KnucRle crosscut
Soup Bone Fore ShanR
soup or Braise
Boneless ChucR Shoulder
Pot-Roast Fillet
Broitt
English Cut Arm Pot Roast Arm SteaR
Rolled Necft Boneless NecR
Bfaiff of St*w
National Live Stock and Meat Board
PORK CHART
Retail Cuts Retail Cui
Wholesale Cuts
2 "^*J9" **ST' 1
Sirloin PorR Tenderloin
Porft Roa$t Frncn^<J and who*
Broil or Braise
2to5
Canadian^Styte Bacon Loin Chop
Fresh Shouwer Hoc* Arm PorR SteaK
Simmer Srolse
National Live Stock and Meat Board
VEAL CHART
Retail Cuts Retail Cuts
Wholesale Cuts
Veal Round Veal
Steoh (cutlet) Round Roast
Braise Roast or Braise
Blade Arm
Veal Roast Veat Roast
Roost or Braise
a ' st City Chicken
- foost or Braise Braise
National Live Stock and Meat Board
Veal Fore Shank Veal Patties
Simmer Braise
MEAT
231
with a damp cloth, or the meat may be rubbed with soda, kept
for a few minutes in boiling water, wiped with a damp cloth
and then cooked.
METHODS OF COOKING MEAT
Meat is cooked to soften connective tissue, to develop flavor,
to improve appearance and to destroy bacteria or other organ-
isms. The method of cooking depends on the kind and quality
of the meat to be cooked. Only tender cuts of meat can be
cooked successfully by dry heat. Although as desirable in
nutritive value and flavor, the tough cuts of meat require moist
heat and long, slow cooking to make them palatable. Since
meat is largely protein, even the tenderest cuts may be toughened
and hardened by too high a temperature.
SEARING Meat is placed in a hot pan containing fat, a hot
oven or over an open fire and is quickly browned on all sides.
The temperature is then reduced and the cooking process con-
tinued. Searing does not keep in the juices as was formerly
thought but does produce a browner exterior.
BROILING Meat is cooked over or under or in front of an
open fire or other direct heat. The meat is placed so that there
is a distance of 3 or 4 inches between top of meat and source
of heat. Broil on one side until nicely browned, turn and finish
broiling. Season. Chops and tender steaks as porterhouse, sir-
loin and first or second cut of round are the most desirable for
broiling.
PAN BROILING Meat is placed in a sizzling hot skillet and
browned on both sides. Reduce temperature and cook until as
well done as desired, turning from time to time.
ROASTING Meat is placed on a rack in an uncovered roast-
ing pan, fat side up and baked in a slow oven, without water
until as well done as desired. Basting is not necessary. The
large tender cuts of meat are cooked by this method.
COOKING IN WATER Meat is covered with boiling water,
then seasoned with salt and pepper and cooked slowly at sim-
mering temperature, not boiling, until meat is tender.
STEWING Meat is cut into cubes. Brown, if desired,
on all sides in hot fat, cover with boiling water and cook
at simmering temperature in a covered kettle until meat is
tender. Less tender cuts containing much connective tissue
232
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are best cooked by this method which softens both tissue and
fiber.
The best cuts for stews are those containing both fat and
lean and some bone. The shank is the most economical of all
cuts for this purpose. Other cuts used are the neck, plate, flank,
heel of the round and the short ribs. The brisket and the rump
are sometimes used. Occasionally a cut like the round is used,
as in beef a la mode.
In making stews^ one-fourth pound of clear meat or one-
half pound of meat and bones should be allowed for each
serving. One to two potatoes, one to two medium-sized car-
rots, one small onion, one-fourth medium-sized turnip and one
stalk of celery may be used for each person served. Any or
all of these may be omitted.
BRAISING Use a thick-walled kettle or frying pan. Brown
sliced onion and snip of garlic in a small amount of fat and sear
meat thoroughly in this. If cooking is to continue on top of
stove, leave meat in the kettle. For oven finishing, transfer to
casserole or baking dish. Season, add a small amount of water
or tomato juice and simmer. Pot roast is the most familiar
braised meat.
FRYING AND SAUTEING Some meats, such as chops and cut-
lets, may be crumbed and fried in deep fat. Ham, liver and
some other meats are sometimes sauteed in a small amount of
fat at low temperature, after the first searing.
PRESSURE COOKING utilizes live steam in a special kettle.
FIRELESS COOKING continues cooking with no additional
heat.
COOKING GLANDS AND ORGANS All glandular organs re-
quire careful cooking at low temperature. Overcooking
toughens them and destroys their delicate flavor, making them
almost tasteless.
Beef
BROWNED BEEF BRISKET
6 pounds beef brisket 6 or more medium- sized
Celery salt boiled potatoes
Garlic Salt and pepper
If the piece has much bone, part may be removed for soup,
stock, or gravy to be used with the meat when warmed over.
Simmer the solid part of the meat in a little water until tender,
MEAT 235
with a dash of celery salt and garlic added, turning it once dur-
ing the cooking, which will take not less than three hours for
the amount given. Remove the meat from the liquor; place
it in a shallow pan with skin side up, and score several times
across the top. Have boiled potatoes (hot or cold) in readi-
ness and drop them into the kettle to take up some of the fat;
then place them around the meat and brown all in a hot oven
(400 -450 F.) about ten to twenty minutes. Make a gravy
with the remaining liquor and serve separately. The meat
should slice as firmly as cheese and be tender and appetizing.
BRISKET OF BEEF
3 pounds beef brisket y 2 cup diced celery with
1/2 cup sliced onions leaves
1/2 cup sliced carrots ll/ 2 teaspoons salt
Cover beef with hot water, add vegetables and simmer, cov-
ered, until meat is tender, about 2 l /z to 3 hours. Do not boil.
Add salt when half done and more water if necessary. Remove
meat from broth, slice and serve with Horse-radish Sauce (page
324) or Onion Sauce (page 315). Allow l /2 pound per serving.
VARIATIONS 1. Brown meat in hot fat before cooking.
2. With Navy Beans Soak 1 pound navy beans in water
overnight. Drain and place in a kettle together with l /2 teaspoon
mustard, l /2 cup brown sugar, l / 2 cup maple sirup, salt and
pepper. Place beef brisket on top. Cover with water and cook
slowly until tender, about 3 hours.
3. Omit vegetables listed. For the last hour of cooking add
1 quart sauerkraut, 1 cup vinegar and 3 tablespoons brown
sugar. Cover and finish cooking. Stir in a grated uncooked
potato 10 minutes before serving.
TO CORN BEEF
Neck, brisket and navel are usually used. Rub the beef with
salt and pack it in a clean hard wood barrel or crock. Pour
over it the following pickle^ enough for twenty-five pounds,
2 l /2 pounds salt l / 2 ounce saltpeter
Yz pound sugar 4J/2 quarts water
Mix the pickle thoroughly, boil it, remove the scum, and
cool the liquid. Place a heavy weight on top of the meat to
236
r^r^^f
keep it in the brine. The meat may be left in the brine for a
month, but it is at its best after ten days of curing.
BOILED CORNED BEEF
6 pounds corned beef 1 onion
1 carrot Vinegar
Butter
Soak the meat one hour in cold water. Drain, put into a
kettle with carrot and onion, using enough cold water to cover
well. Add to each quart of water one teaspoon of vinegar.
Simmer until tender. Thirty to forty minutes for each pound
is a fair allowance of time. Let it remain in the liquor twenty
minutes after it is done. Then drain and serve. Butter rubbed
over the meat just before serving improves corned beef pre-
pared in this way.
OLD-FASHIONED BOILED DINNER
6 pounds corned-beef 4 carrots
brisket 6 potatoes
1 cabbage 6 beets
3 white turnips Vinegar
Put the meat into the pot over a brisk fire with enough cold
water to cover it. Bring it rapidly just to the boiling-point,
then remove the scum, reduce the heat and simmer until tender
(three to four hours). About three-fourths of an hour before
it is to be served, skim the liquid free from fat. Put a portion
of the liquid into another kettle with the cabbage which has
been cleaned and cut into sections, the turnips, carrots, potatoes
and beets prepared and cut into uniform pieces, and boil until
tender.
BEEF STEW WITH DUMPLINGS
l l /2 pounds shank, neck, 1 small onion
plate, flank, rump or l /$ cup cubed carrots
brisket % cup cubed turnips
l /4 cup flour 4 cups potatoes, cut in
1 Yz teaspoons salt quarters
J4 teaspoon pepper
Wipe meat, remove from bone, cut in cubes of about one and
one-half inch. Mix flour with salt and pepper and dredge the
MEAT 237
cubes of meat with it. Cut some of the fat from the meat
and heat in a frying-pan. When part of the fat has tried out,
add the cubes of meat and brown the surface, stirring con-
stantly to prevent burning. Put this meat, with the melted
fat in which it was browned, into the stew-kettle. Add enough
boiling water to cover the meat or a pint of tomatoes, stewed
and strained, and simmer until the meat is tender (about three
hours) .
The carrots and turnips are to be added during the last hour
of cooking, and the potatoes twenty minutes before serving
time. Fifteen minutes before serving time, add the dumplings
to the stew.
DUMPLINGS No. 1.
2 cups sifted flour 1 egg, well beaten
1 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons melted butter
4 teaspoons baking powder or other shortening
y 4 teaspoon pepper Milk (about % cup)
Sift dry ingredients together. Add egg, melted shortening
and enough milk to make a moist, stiff batter. Drop by tea-
spoons into boiling liquid. Cover very closely and cook for 18
minutes. Makes 2 dozen dumplings.
These dumplings may be steamed in another kettle, as in fol-
lowing recipe.
No. 2.
2 cups flour 1 teaspoon salt
4 teaspoons baking-powder % cup milk
l /z tablespoon fat
Sift together the dry ingredients and rub in the fat. Add
enough milk to moisten the flour, but do not make the mixture
too wet. Roll out the dough on a board, making it about one
inch thick, and cut with a biscuit cutter. Put the pieces on a
plate in a steamer and steam twenty to thirty minutes. It is
better not to steam the dumplings over the stew, as the rapid
boiling required reduces the gravy too much. These dumplings
may be cooked on top of the stew, as in the recipe above, but
they will be lighter if steamed.
2 3 8
s^-X^^^-^^-N^-S-'-V^N^'S-'^X-N^-V^
BRAISED SHORT RIBS
3 pounds short ribs of beef Salt
Flour Pepper
1 cup water
Cut meat into serving portions. Dredge with flour and brown
in a hot kettle or oven. Season with salt and pepper, add water,
cover and cook in kettle at simmering temperature or in a slow
oven (300F.) until tender, 1 l /z to 2 hours. Allow l / 2 pound
per serving.
VARIATIONS Use Barbecue Sauce (page 2 53) for water.
2. Spread prepared mustard over ribs and use tomatoes or
tomato juice in place of water.
3. Add sauerkraut during the last 45 minutes of cooking.
4. Add uncooked pared potatoes, carrots and onions to the
ribs about 45 minutes before ribs are done.
BEEF GOULASH
3 pounds beef chuck 1 teaspoon salt
Vinegar l /2 teaspoon paprika
Summer savory 8 onions
J/3 cup fat
Cook the onions slowly in the fat. Cut the beef into cubes
or slices and sprinkle with vinegar and a little savory. Add the
salt and paprika. Add the cooked onions, cover tightly, and
simmer for about two hours. The liquid may be increased
just before serving by the addition of a little beef stock, or
cream, either sweet or sour.
SAVORY BEEF
2 pounds beef, plate, shank, % teaspoon ground cloves and
rump or round thyme or Summer savory
3 large onions, sliced 1 ' pint brown stock or boiling
3 tablespoons fat water and meat extract
3 tablespoons flour 2 tablespoons vinegar
1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon catchup
54 teaspoon black pepper
Brown the onions slowly in the fat. Increase the heat. Cut
meat into sizes desired for serving, add it to the onions, and
brown. Mix the flour and the dry seasonings. Sprinkle this
MEAT 239
mixture over the meat. Add the stock, vinegar and catchup.
Cover closely. Simmer until meat is tender, allowing at least
two hours for shank or plate and one and one-half hours for
rump or round.
POT ROAST OF BEEF
4 pounds chuck, round or 3 tablespoons fat
rump of beef Salt and pepper
1/4 cup flour 1/2 cup water
Dredge meat with flour and brown on all sides in hot fat.
Season with salt and pepper. Add water, cover and cook slowly
until tender, 3 to 4 hours. As the liquid cooks away add more,
as needed. Serve with brown gravy and vegetables. Makes 8
portions.
VARIATIONS 1. Add uncooked pared potatoes, carrots, green
beans, celery and onions just long enough before serving to cook
them. They may be whole, quartered or sliced.
2. Use tomatoes or tomato juice in place of water.
3. After browning, pour l / 4 cup horse-radish over meat.
4. Before cooking, cut slits in the meat and insert stuffed
olives, pushing them into the meat.
SMOTHERED BEEF
3 pounds rump 2 tablespoons mild prepared
Flour mixed with salt and mustard
pepper 1 teaspoon celery seed
3 large onions, sliced 1 cup strained tomatoes or y 2
3 tablespoons fat can tomato soup
Dredge the meat with flour and brown it in a heavy pan.
Brown the onions in the fat; add the mustard, celery seed and
tomatoes. Pour this sauce over the meat and simmer three hours
or more.
SWISS STEAK
2 pounds steak cut 2y 2 inches Salt and pepper
thick from shoulder, rump y 2 green pepper, chopped fine
or round 2 cups boiling water or
y 2 cup flour 1 cup water and
2 tablespoons fat 1 cup strained tomatoes
Few slices onion
Season the flour with salt and pepper and pound it into the
meat with a wooden potato-masher, or the edge of a heavy
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240
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meat mallet. Heat the fat and brown the meat in it. Add the
onions, green pepper, boiling water and tomato. Cover closely.
Simmer for 2 hours. This may be cooked in a casserole in a
moderate oven (350F.) about 1 to 1 1 /2 hours. Vegetables may
be added as desired. Serves 6.
STUFFED STEAK
2 pounds flank or round steak 1 tablespoon chopped onion
1 cup crumbs 1 small turnip, diced
l /2 cup stock or water l / 2 cup chopped celery
1 teaspoon salt 1 small carrot, diced
l / 4 teaspoon pepper Flour
The meat should be cut from one-half inch to one inch thick.
"Wipe the steak, remove the skin and lay the meat out flat on
a board. Make a dressing of the crumbs, stock or water, salt,
pepper, chopped onion and a small amount of celery and spread
It on the meat. Roll the steak with the grain, so that when it
is cut it may be cut across the grain of the meat. Place the
diced vegetables in a roasting-pan and on them lay the rolled
steak. Add two or three cups of water, depending upon the
size of the pan. Cover and bake in a slow oven (350 F.) for
three hours, or until tender.
If you prefer to cook this meat on top of the stove, melt one-
half cup of suet in the bottom of a flat-bottomed iron or
heavy aluminum kettle, flour the meat thickly and lay the roll
in the kettle. Turn from side to side until it is well browned,
then add hot water nearly to cover, and simmer slowly for
three hours.
When the meat is cooked, remove it from the kettle or roast-
ing-pan and thicken the broth, using one to two tablespoons of
flour to each cup of gravy.
BRAISED OX-TAIL
1 ox- tail (cut in two-inch 2 tablespoons flour
pieces) 1 cup hot water
2 tablespoons fat 1 cup tomatoes
2 small onions 3 bay-leaves
1 carrot 3 whole cloves
1 tablespoon chopped celery Salt and pepper
Saute the pieces of ox-tail in the fat. Add the sliced onion*
and carrot and the chopped celery, and brown all together.
MEAT 241
Sprinkle with browned flour. Add the hot water, tomatoes,
bay-leaves, cloves, salt and pepper. Put into a casserole and
cook slowly (350 F.) until the meat falls from the bones.
BRAISED BEEF
% to 3 pounds brisket or 1 chopped onion
round of beef 1 chopped carrot
Drippings or other fat for 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
sauteing */2 cup diced celery
2 tablespoons butter or other 1 cup canned tomatoes
fat Salt and paprika
Cut the meat into cubes; brown in hot frying-pan with
drippings. Stir the meat so it will cook quickly and not lose
its juices. Tender cuts can be cooked whole. Remove the
pieces to a closely covered kettle that can be used either on top
of the range or in the oven. Rinse the pan with a quarter cup
of boiling water to save all browned bits, and pour this over
the meat. Cover tightly and cook slowly for two hours.
FOR THE SAUCE, melt butter or other fat and brown the
onion and carrot in it. Add parsley, celery and tomatoes.
Heat thoroughly. Add seasonings. Pour the sauce over the
meat and continue cooking for another hour.
BEEFSTEAK PIE
2 pounds rump, flank or Sliced potatoes
chuck steak Butter or other fat
Pie paste Flour
Chopped onion Egg
Salt and pepper
Cut the meat into strips two inches long by one inch wide.
Put them with the bone, just cover them with water and sim-
mer about an hour. Line the sides of a baking-dish with pie
paste; put in a layer of meat with a few thin slices of onion,
and sprinkle with salt and pepper; next add a layer of sliced
potatoes, with bits of butter dotted over it. Alternate the steak
and potato layers until the dish is full. Thicken the gravy
with browned flour and pour in, put on a top crust, brush it
with beaten egg and bake at 450 F. until quite brown about
thirty minutes.
242
ROAST BEEF WITH YORKSHIRE PUDDING
In preparing beef for roasting, trim it carefully then skewer
and tie it into shape. Rub the lean parts with drippings and
rub the whole with salt, pepper and flour.
Place the standing or rolled rib roast fat side up in an open
roasting pan. Then the roast will baste itself. Insert meat
thermometer so that bulb reaches the center of the largest
muscle, taking care that it does not rest on the fat or bone.
Roast in a slow oven (300-350 F.) or, if a brown crust is
wanted, start in hot oven (500 F.) for 20 minutes, then reduce
to 300 F. until done as desired. The thermometer will read
140 F. for rare, 160 F. for medium, 170 F. for well done.
The time per pound needed is 18-22 minutes for rare; 22-25 for
medium and 27-30 for well done. For making gravy, see page
314.
YORKSHIRE PUDDING
1 cup flour 1 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon salt 2 eggs
Put flour, salt, milk and eggs together in a bowl. Beat well
with a rotary egg-beater. Pour drippings to the depth of one
inch into a shallow pan. Have the drippings hot and pour in
the mixture quickly. Bake for one-half hour in a hot oven
(400 -42 5 F.). The pudding may then be placed under the
trivet that holds the roast beef and left for about fifteen min-
utes to catch the gravy that flows from the roast. If a trivet
is not used, cut the pudding into squares and lay them around
the roast in the pan. Serve the pudding with the beef.
FILLET MIGNON
Beef fillet Salt and pepper
Salt pork Flour
Butter or other fat
The fillet is the under side of the loin of beef, the tenderloin.
The skin and fat should be removed with a sharp knife, and
also every shred of muscle and ligament. If the fillet is not
then of a good round shape, skewer it until it is so. Lard the
upper surface with strips of fat salt pork and rub the entire
surface with soft butter or other fat. Dredge well with salt,
pepper and flour, and place the fillet, without water, in a small
MEAT 243
pan. Bake in a moderate oven (350 F.) to the desired degree
of doneness, 40 to 60 minutes. Serve, cut into 2 inch slices,
accompanied with mushroom sauce or sauteed mushrooms.
BROILED STEAK
1 porterhouse, sirloin Salt and pepper
or club steak 2 tablespoons butter
Select a steak at least 1 to 1 1 / 2 inches thick. Heat the broiler
for 1 minutes with regulator set at 350 F. Arrange steak on a
rack. Place rack 4 inches under heat. Broil for half the specified
time, season with salt and pepper, turn and broil on other side.
Remove to a hot platter. Place butter on top of steak, sprinkle
with salt and pepper and serve at once. Allow l / 2 pound of meat
per person.
BROILING TIME
Degree of
Doneness 1 inch thick 1 1 / 2 inches thick
Rare 9 to 10 minutes 14 to 16 minutes
Medium 12 to 14 " 18 to 20
Well done 16 to 1 8 " 25 to 30 "
PAN BROILED STEAK
Heat a heavy skillet until sizzling hot. Place meat in hot pan
and brown well on both sides. Reduce temperature and cook
until the desired degree of doneness, turning from time to time,
being careful not to pierce meat. Pour off fat as it accumulates
in the pan. Place meat on a hot platter, spread with butter and
season with salt and pepper.
WITH MUSHROOMS
Use mushroom caps, whole or sliced. Saute slowly in hot
butter 5 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Allow 2 tablespoons
butter for y 2 pound mushrooms.
WITH ONIONS
Slice onions into water and drain. Place in a shallow sauce-
pan, cover closely, and cook over a slow heat for fifteen or
twenty minutes, till tender. No water or fat should be used,
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244
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as the onions contain both moisture and richness. Pan-broil
the steak. Put the onions into the pan in which the steak was
cooked and brown them. Serve steak with onions around it.
WITH OYSTERS.
1 quart oysters 3 tablespoons butter or other
1 tablespoon sifted flour fat
Set the oysters, with a very little of their juice, over the fire;
when they come to a boil, remove any scum and stir in the fat
in which the sifted flour has been rubbed. Boil one minute^
pour over the steak and serve at once.
PLANKED STEAK
1 tender steak, 2 inches thick Butter
Duchess potatoes Minced parsley
Various kinds of cooked Salt
vegetables Paprika
Trim the fat and make outline of the steak even. Sear it on
both sides on a hot griddle or pan, using no fat, or on a broiler.
Cook fifteen minutes, turning frequently. Oil a heated plank
(see directions for planked fish), place the steak on the plank,
and arrange border of Duchess potatoes around it. Arrange
other cooked vegetables, such as stuffed tomatoes or green
peppers^ small boiled onions, peas, string beans and cubes of
carrot or turnip, around the steak, also, so that the board is
entirely concealed. Place the plank in the oven until the potato
border is browned and all the vegetables are heated through.
After removing it from the oven, spread the steak with butter
into which has been rubbed minced parsley^ salt and paprika.
Send to table upon the plank.
HAMBURG STEAK
2 pounds chopped beef Onion-juice
l /4 pound suet Flour
Butter Salt and pepper
Have the butcher chop the beef and suet together twice.
Press it into a flat steak about three-fourths of an inch thick,
sprinkle with salt, pepper, a little onion-juice and flour. Broil
on a fine wire broiler or saute in a little fat. Spread with butter
MEAT 245
and serve on a hot dish. This steak is sometimes shaped into
small, thin, flat cakes. When it is sauted, a gravy may be made
by thickening the juices in the pan, to which a little water has
been added. Two tablespoons of melted butter and one table-
spoon minced onion mixed with the meat and seasonings im-
proves Hamburg steak.
BAKED HAMBURG STEAK
1 l /2 pounds chopped beef 2 eggs
2 cups bread soaked in milk 4 hard-cooked eggs
1 small onion, minced 1 cup tomatoes
1 tablespoon butter or other l /2 cup sliced onion
fat Salt, pepper, ginger
Have the meat put through the grinder twice. Add the
bread, the onion, seasonings to taste and the two uncooked
eggs, well-beaten. Arrange the hard-cooked eggs end to end
across the middle of the meat and roll the meat mixture around
them. Place the roll in a baking-pan, pour over it a sauce com-
posed of the tomatoes, sliced onions, butter or other fat and
water, and bake in moderate oven (350-375 F.) for about
two hours^ basting frequently with sauce. In serving, slice the
roll crosswise. The hard-cooked eggs may be omitted.
BEEF BALLS
l l /z pounds beef from the 1 egg
shank Flour
l / 3 cup bread-crumbs Salt and pepper
3 tablespoons soft fat 1 teaspoon lemon-juice
1 cup stock Nutmeg
Put the meat twice through a food-chopper, add bread-
crumbs, salt, pepper, lemon- juice, a little nutmeg and the beaten
egg. Shape into balls lightly and let them stand for half an hour
or more to become firm, then roll them in flour and brown them
in the frying-pan with the fat. Take out the meat balls, add to
the fat a tablespoon of flour and a cup of stock. Season well, put
the meat balls into this mixture, cover the frying-pan closely
and simmer for an hour and a half.
246
BEEF LOAF
l l /2 pounds chopped beef 2 teaspoons salt
2 eggs Additional seasonings to suit,
l l / 2 cups bread-crumbs such as chopped celery or
2 tablespoons chopped parsley onion, poultry seasoning, a
l / 2 teaspoon pepper dash of thyme, savory, sage,
etc.
Chop the meat. Mix it thoroughly with one unbeaten egg,
bread-crumbs, chopped parsley, pepper and salt. Turn into a
bread pan until almost filled. Press a hollow with spoon and
drop an egg into the opening. Season, cover egg and continue
to fill pan. Bake 40 minutes in hot oven (400 F.), basting
every 8-10 minutes with stock or butter in hot water. Garnish
with parsley or watercress and serve hot with mushroom sauce
or onion sauce. It is simple to serve cold with horse-radish
sauce.
SCALLOPED CORNED BEEF
2 cups cooked corned beef 1 stalk celery
cut into cubes 2 slices onion
1 cup medium white sauce Buttered bread-crumbs
Cook chopped celery and onions in the sauce. Put the
corned beef in a shallow baking-dish and add the sauce.
Sprinkle with buttered bread-crumbs. Cook fifteen to thirty
minutes in a moderate oven (350-400 F.).
BEEF MIRONTON
Sliced cooked beef 6 onions
1 cup bouillon or 1 to 2 tablespoons fat
1 cup water mixed with 1 tablespoon flour
canned tomato sauce 2 tablespoons vinegar
Salt and pepper Bread-crumbs
Slice the onions and brown them in fat in a frying-pan.
Add the flour and brown. Then add the vinegar, and the
bouillon or the water and tomato sauce. Cook together until
slightly thickened, stirring constantly. Season with salt and
pepper. Smother the slices of beef in the sauce for a few min-
utes. Pour into a baking-dish ; sprinkle some bread-crumbs over
the top and bake for ten minutes in a hot oven (400 F.).
MEAT 247
FRICASSEE OF BEEF
Sliced cooked beef l /2 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons flour 2 cups water
3 tablespoons fat 1 teaspoon onion-juice
l l /z teaspoons salt
Season the meat with salt and pepper. Make a sauce of the
fat, flour and water, and remainder of the seasonings. Add the
cold meat and cook gently for three minutes, if it is rare beef,
mutton or game; if the meat is veal or poultry, it may cook
longer. Serve on a hot dish with a border of ricej mashed po-
tatoes or toast.
BEEF HASH
2 cups chopped cold roast 1 cup beef gravy or hot water
beef or steak 4 tablespoons butter or other
2 to 4 cups chopped boiled fat
potatoes
Put the fat into a frying-pan and then put in the meat and
potato, salt and pepper, moisten with beef gravy or hot water
and cover. Let it steam or heat through throughly, stirring
occasionally to mix it evenly and also to keep it from sticking.
When done, it should be neither watery nor dry, but just firm
enough to stand well when dished. If a drier hash is liked,
reduce the liquid, and after the hash has been thoroughly
heated through remove the cover and allow the hash to brown.
If onion is liked, fry two or three slices in the fat before the
hash is added, or mix a little chopped onion with the meat
and potatoes.
CORNED BEEF HASH
2 cups chopped corned beef y 2 cup milk or water
2 cups chopped cooked po- 2 tablespoons butter or other
tatoes fat
Salt and pepper
Mix beef and potatoes together lightly and season. Pour
the milk into a frying-pan with half the fat and, when this is
warm, turn in the hash, spreading it evenly and placing the
rest of the fat, cut in pieces, on the top. Cover the pan and
place it where the hash will cook slowly for half an hour. There
should then be a rich, thick crust on the bottom. Do not stir
248
^NXN^NX
the hash. Fold it as an omelet is folded and place it on a warm
platter. This slow process of heating the hash gives it a flavor
that can not be obtained by hurried cooking.
CREAMED DRIED BEEF
% pound dried beef 4 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons butter or other Pepper
fat 1 egg
2 cups milk
Place the butter or other fat and one and one-half cups of
milk in a small frying-pan. When hot, add the beef, shredded.
Cook three minutes. Rub the flour smooth in one-half cup
cold milk, add a dash of pepper and stir into the beef. As
soon as it thickens, draw the pan back, simmer five minutes,
add the well-beaten egg and serve at once. The hot gravy will
cook the egg sufficiently* The egg may be omitted.
Veal
VEAL POT PIE
3 pounds veal Salt and pepper
2 onions 5 potatoes
The neck, ends of ribs, knuckle, breast or shoulder may be
used. Cut the meat into two-inch cubes and place them in a
kettle with the onion, salt and pepper, and just enough hot
water to cover them. Simmer until the meat is tender, about
an hour usually being sufficient. Strips of salt pork are some-
times cooked with the veal and add much to the flavor. Half
an hour before serving, add the potatoes^ cut in halves, and
cook them with the meat.
Place dumplings around the edge of a platter and with a
skimmer lift the meat and potato from the kettle and lay them
in the center. Thicken the gravy in the kettle with a little
flour stirred to a thin smooth paste with water. Pour the gravy
over meat and dumplings. (The Index will tell you where
to find the recipe for dumplings. )
MEAT 249
BRAISED VEAL
5 pounds veal 1 tablespoon sliced onion
2 tablespoons butter or other Salt and pepper
fat 4 cups boiling water
The breast, neck, shoulder, ends of ribs or knuckle may be
used. Heat the fat and onion in a kettle. Season the veal with
salt and pepper, put it into the kettle and sear it on all sides
until brown. Pour over it the boiling water and cover tightly.
Set the kettle in a slow oven (350 F.) and bake for two and
one-half hours. Serve either hot or cold. If served hot, make
a thickened sauce of the liquor in the kettle. When cold, the
gravy will form a jelly to serve with the cold meat.
VEAL PIE
2 pounds veal 2 tablespoons fat
Puff paste or other rich paste 1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons flour Pepper
Cut the meat into small pieces and stew until tender. Line
a baking-dish with paste. Set a small inverted cup in the middle
of the dish. Put in the meat, dredge it with flour, add fat and
seasoning, and nearly cover with the stock in which the meat
was cooked. Cover with paste. Bake thirty minutes in a quick
oven (450 F.). If one-half pound of good salt pork or ham
is cut in thin slices and parboiled with the veal, a nice flavor is
added and very little, if any, butter need then be used, nor is
any other salt necessary. Hard-cooked eggs cut in slices and
arranged in layers on the veal and ham are an addition to this
dish. When serving, lift the inverted cup and let the gravy
flow back into the dish.
VEAL CUTLETS WITH CREAM GRAVY
2 pounds veal cutlets Drippings
Salt and pepper 1 cup milk or cream
Egg 1 tablespoon flour
Bread or cracker-crumbs
Wipe the cutlets, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip them first
in beaten egg and then in fine bread or cracker-crumbs, and
saute' in drippings until brown. If preferred, they may be cut
250
FV/SSNS
into small pieces of similar size and pounded with a rolling-
pin until little more than a quarter of an inch in thickness and
then egged and crumbed and sauted. The cutlets should be
thoroughly browned on both sides. Place them on a platter^
add cream to the gravy in the pan, and thicken slightly with
flour rubbed to a smooth paste with a little cold water. They
may be served with slices of bacon.
VEAL CUTLETS AND SOUP
3 pounds veal shank 3 cups brown stock
Crumbs A few peppercorns
Salt Celery salt
Egg 5/2 cup diced potatoes
Butter or other fat l / 2 cup diced turnips
Cook a veal shank in boiling salted water until tender. Re-
move as much meat as possible from the bone and cut the pieces
to resemble chops. Season the veal well. Roll in crumbs, egg
and crumbs again, and saute in butter or other fat.
For the soup, take the remaining portion of the shank and
put it into a kettle with the stock, peppercorns, salt, celery salt,
and any other seasonings desired. Add the potatoes, turnips,
and a little parsley. Cook for one-half hour.
VEAL COLLOPS
2 pounds veal Cracker-crumbs
Egg Salt and pepper
Cut the veal in pieces the size of an oyster, dip in beaten egg,
roll in cracker-crumbs and season with salt and pepper. Fry in
deep fat (375-400 F.).
VEAL AND HAM
l /z pound sliced ham Salt and pepper
1 1 /2 pounds veal cutlets
Fry the ham, using no fat unless the meat is unusually lean.
Remove the ham and place on the serving-dish. Cook the veal
in the juices left from the ham, frying without covering until
it is a deep brown. Put the veal on the same dish with the
ham, add a little water to the gravy, season with salt and pepper,
and pour it, without thickening, over the meat.
MEAT 25I
ROAST VEAL
4 pounds veal Flour
Salt and pepper Fat or salt pork or bacon
A roast may be cut from the leg, the loin, the rack, or the
shoulder, or the breast may be boned for a roast. A fillet of
five or six pounds from the heaviest part is the most economical
for roasting. If the leg is used, it should be boned at the market,
and the bone should be used for stock. Stuffing improves many
roasts of veal (see recipes below) .
Wipe the meat, dredge with salt, pepper and flour and place
it in a pan with some fat. Place in a slow oven (300 F.) and
roast uncovered and without adding water until tender. Allow
25 to 30 minutes per pound. If desired make an incision in meat
and insert a roast meat thermometer so that the bulb reaches
the center of the fleshiest part. When the thermometer registers
170 F. the veal will be well done. Allow about % pound per
serving.
ROLLED VEAL LOIN
6 pounds loin of veal 1 tablespoon grated lemon rind
Y 2 pound boiled ham 1/2 teaspoon salt
2 hard-cooked eggs ]/ 8 teaspoon pepper
1 cup bread crumbs 1 egg, slightly beaten
1/4 teaspoon chopped thyme Salt pork or bacon
1 teaspoon chopped parsley
Have the kidney end of the loin carefully boned and cut
into a long shape like a flap. Line it with slices of boiled ham and
hard-cooked eggs. Remove all the skin and fat from the kidney,
chop fine and mix with bread crumbs, thyme, parsley, lemon
rind, salt and pepper. Add beaten egg and blend thoroughly.
Spread over the veal on top of the sliced ham and eggs. Roll
the meat and sew or fasten tightly with skewers. Arrange strips
of salt pork or bacon over roll. Place in a slow oven (300 F.)
and roast without covering and without adding water until
tender, 25 to 30 minutes per pound. If a meat thermometer is
used it will register 170 F. when meat is well done. Allow l /$
pound per serving. Serve with brown gravy. This is delicious
served cold. Garnish with spiced peaches or apricot halves in
pineapple rings.
252
STUFFED BREAST OF VEAL
4 pounds breast of veal % teaspoon pepper
2 cups bread crumbs y 4 cup minced onion
Y 4 cup salt pork drippings y 2 cup diced celery
1 teaspoon salt y 2 cup hot water
Have a pocket cut in veal breast. Make a stuffing by com-
bining remaining ingredients and tossing together lightly. Pack
stuffing into pocket and sew or skewer edges together. Brown
the meat in hot fat, then add % cup water, cover and cook in
a moderate oven (350F.) 1 l /z to 2 hours or until tender.
VARIATIONS Add l /z cup cooked pitted prunes, apricots or
seedless raisins to the stuffing.
Stuff breast with cooked and seasoned rice or noodles.
VEAL LOAF
2 l /z pounds veal, knuckle 1 cup water or stock
or shin 1 egg
l /4 pound salt pork l / 2 teaspoon sage
2 teaspoons salt 2 tablespoons butter or other
1 teaspoon chopped onion fat
1 cup cracker-crumbs
Chop the veal and pork very fine and add salt, onion,
crumbs, one-half of the water or stock, the egg and sage. Mix
all well together. Oil a small pan and press the mixture into
it like a loaf, making it about six inches high. Cook for two
and one-half hours in a moderate oven (350 F.) basting with
the remainder of the water or stock, in which the butter or
other fat has been melted. This may be served hot or cold. If
served hot a white sauce may accompany it.
JELLIED VEAL
A knuckle of veal Stalk of celery
l /2 onion Salt and pepper
Few slices carrot
Place the veal in boiling water, and simmer until tender,
together with the carrot, onion and celery. Remove the veal
from the liquid and cool both. When the meat is nearly cold,
cut it into tiny cubes, or chop it fine; remove the fat from the
broth, reheat the liquid and stir the veal into it, adding salt
MEAT
253
and pepper, and other seasoning if desired. Pack the hot mix-
ture into a mold, cover with oiled paper, cover and let stand
until set. Slice thin and serve cold.
BARBECUED ROAST
3 or 4-pound roast lamb, 4 cups beef stock
mutton, pork or beef % teaspoon dry mustard
y 2 cup salad oil Dash pepper
2 tablespoons vinegar % teaspoon celery salt
1 cup water Salt to season, about 1
% cup flour teaspoon
Select meat which can be easily sliced across the grain. Mix
salad oil and vinegar together and let meat stand in the mix-
ture overnight. Place meat in a baking dish, add water and
mixture in which meat was marinated. Bake, uncovered in a
350 F. oven for \ l /2 to 2 hours or until tender. Baste several
times during the roasting period and turn once so meat will be
browned on both sides. Add additional water, if necessary.
About l /2 hour before serving time, remove % cup fat from
the baking dish, to a skillet, blend in flour and cook until flour
is brown. Add beef stock or its equivalent in canned soup
or dissolved bouillon cubes, gradually, stirring constantly. Add
remaining seasonings. Serve sliced, in a heated covered dish,
with sauce in a separate hot bowl for 6 to 8 persons.
PORK CHOPS WITH BARBECUE SAUCE
6 pork chops Barbecue sauce
Wipe the pork chops with a damp cloth and dust with flour.
Sear on both sides until browned, then place 1 tablespoon sauce
on each chop. Reduce heat, cover and cook slowly 5 to 8
minutes. Turn chops and place 1 tablespoon of sauce on other
side. Cover and cook slowly until tender. Serve with sauce.
BARBECUE SAUCE
4 tablespoons minced onion 1 tablespoon salt
1 cup tomato puree 1 teaspoon paprika
% cup water 1 teaspoon chili powder
3 tablespoons vinegar !/2 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons Worcester- y 4 teaspoon cinnamon
shire sauce Dash ground cloves
Combine all ingredients in order listed. Heat to boiling and
use as directed above.
254
^-^N^-SXX^N^\-/'V^^^/%^'-Vr^-\^^^-x.
Mutton and Lamb
The flavor of mutton may be reduced by rubbing the meat
with lemon-juice or by putting slices of lemon in the water
in which the mutton is boiled. Mutton marinated in oil and
vinegar or in spiced vinegar becomes very tender. The marinade
also tends to absorb or neutralize the mutton flavor. Mutton
may be served rare, but lamb should be well cooked. Mutton
should always be served very hot, with caper sauce, mint sauce,
tart jelly or spiced fruit.
BARBECUED LAMB or MUTTON
6-pound leg lamb i/ 2 cup catchup
2 teaspoons salt 2 tablespoons A-l sauce
Flour 2 tablespoons Worcester-
1 onion, sliced shire sauce
1 cup water l/ 4 teaspoon cayenne
Wipe leg of lamb with damp cloth, rub with salt and dredge
with flour. Place in a roasting pan and surround with onion.
Combine remaining ingredients, mix well and pour over meat.
Roast in a 3 5 F. oven 3 minutes for each pound. Baste every
20 minutes with the sauce. Serves 8.
LAMB STEW
2 pounds lamb cubes, shank, 6 potatoes
breast, neck or shoulder 6 carrots
2 tablespoons flour 3 onions
2 tablespoons butter or other 4 white turnips
fat 1 cup fresh peas
Salt and pepper 3 tomatoes
Hot water Flour
Dredge lamb with flour and brown well in hot fat. Season
with salt and pepper, cover with water and simmer until nearly
tender, 1 to 1 J/z hours. Add peeled vegetables, except tomatoes,
whole or cut in cubes and simmer 30 minutes longer or until
tender. Add tomatoes and simmer 10 minutes longer. Mix a
little flour with water to a smooth paste and add enough to the
liquid to thicken slightly. Serves 6.
MEAT 255
BRAISED LEG OF LAMB OR MUTTON
y 2 cup each finely chopped 6 whole cloves
celery, carrot and onion 1 clove garlic
2 tablespoons drippings or 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
other fat 12 peppercorns
3 cups vinegar y 2 bay leaf
3 cups water 1 tablespoon salt
1 leg lamb or mutton 1 pint sour cream
1/2 teaspoon each of powdered l / 2 pint stock
thyme and marjoram
Saute celery, carrot, and onion in drippings until light brown,
add vinegar and water and cook until vegetables are tender.
Cool. Place meat in deep dish, pour first mixture over meat,
being careful to have meat entirely covered. Add seasonings.
Marinate meat in this mixture for 24 hours. Drain and dry
thoroughly. Place in roasting pan, bake in moderately slow
oven (300 to 325 F.) for 30 minutes. Add sour cream and
stock, cover and cook until tender, allowing 30 to 35 minutes
per pound. Baste frequently. Boil liquor in which meat was
marinated until only a small amount remains, strain and pour
over meat when serving.
ROAST STUFFED SHOULDER OF LAMB
3-4 pound shoulder lamb 2 recipes Bread Stuffing
Salt and pepper No. 2 (page 303)
Have shoulder bone removed from shoulder and sew on 2
sides, leaving 1 side open for stuffing. Season with salt and
pepper. Fill cavity in meat with stuffing and sew or skewer
edges together. Place fat side up on rack in an open roasting pan
and roast in moderately slow oven (300 to 350 F.) until
tender, allowing 35 to 40 minutes per pound. Serves 6.
VARIATIONS 1. Add l /z cup chopped mint to stuffing.
2. Add J/2 cup finely chopped dried apricots to stuffing.
3. Omit milk in stuffing and add 1 cup tomato pulp.
4. Saute l / 2 pound sliced mushrooms in melted fat with onion
and proceed with stuffing as directed.
5. Use Sausage Stuffing (page 305) in place of Bread Stuffing.
6. In place of Bread Stuffing use l /2 recipe Pineapple-Nut
Stuffing or Rice Stuffing (page 305).
MUTTON CHOPS
6 mutton chops Oil Salt and pepper
Mutton chops should be not less than one inch thick. The
best way to cook them is to broil them. Sprinkle with salt
and pepper, oil on both sides and broil, turning very often.
Have them slightly underdone, and serve on a hot chop-dish,
garnishing with French fried potatoes and sprigs of parsley.
If preferred these chops may be breaded. Select chops with
little fat, or trim off the fat, dip them in well-beaten egg, roll
in cracker crumbs, and fry in deep fat (375-400 F.). Serve
with tomato sauce.
BROILED LAMB PATTIES
1 1/2 pounds ground lamb 1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons grated onion l/ 2 teaspoon pepper
Mix all ingredients thoroughly. Shape into thick patties.
Place on a rack under preheated broiler, about 3 inches from
source of heat so that by the time the patties are browned on
the top they will be half done. Turn and brown on other side.
Allow about 1 5 minutes. Serves 6.
ROAST CROWN OF LAMB
1 crown of lamb or mutton 1 recipe Mushroom Stuffing
Salt and pepper (p a g e 305)
Sliced salt pork
A crown is usually prepared at the market and is made by
shaping the ribs (12-15) into a crown and frenching or scrap-
ing the rib ends. Season with salt and pepper. Fill center of
crown with stuffing. Wrap rib ends with salt pork or bacon
slices. Place crown on a rack in an open roasting pan and roast
in a moderately slow oven (300 to 350F.) until as well done
as desired, allowing 30 to 35 minutes per pound. To serve,
remove salt pork from rib ends and slip paper frills over them.
Allow 2 ribs to each serving.
VARIATIONS Do not stuff. Roast crown upside down with-
out wrapping ribs. To serve, turn right side up and fill center
with vegetables: mashed potatoes, potato balls, peas, diced
carrots or cooked whole cauliflower.
A CROWN ROAST OR
LEG O'LAMB HELPS CEL-
EBRATE THE SPRING
B
BREAST OF LAMB
READY FOR STUFF-
ING.
ROAST ON RACK,
NO COVER, NO I
WATER. SERVE f
WITH STUFFED
ONIONS I
U. S. Bureau Home
Economics
MEAT
LAMB OR MUTTON CUTLETS
2 pounds loin cutlets Flour Salt and pepper
Trim the cutlets and remove the fat, dip them in cold water,
season with pepper and salt and sprinkle flour on both sides.
Wet the inside of a thick saucepan with cold water, leaving
about two tablespoons of the latter in the pan. Lay the cutlets
in flat, place over a gentle fire and simmer for one hour or
more, turning the cutlets when half done. Unless cooked slowly,
the cutlets will not be tender or good. Season and serve with
pan gravy. A little water may be added to the gravy, if
necessary.
ROAST LEG OF LAMB
1 leg lamb (5 to 6 pounds) 11/2 tablespoons salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
Have shank bone removed at the market, if desired. Do not
remove the fell. Rub meat with salt and pepper. Place, fat
side up, on rack in an uncovered roasting pan. Roast in a
moderately slow oven (300-325F.) 30 to 35 minutes to the
pound, or until a meat thermometer registers 175 to 180 F.
Place on a hot platter and garnish with sliced pineapple and
sprigs of watercress.
1. Rub meat with the cut edge of a clove of garlic or place
slivers of garlic into deep narrow gashes cut in meat, or insert
clove of garlic into joint of leg and remove before serving.
2. Rub 1 teaspoon ginger over surface of meat.
3. Baste lamb with vinegar which has been seasoned with
finely cut mint leaves.
4. Baste lamb with a mixture of l /2 cup tomato catchup and
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce.
5. Rub meat with l / 2 cup finely chopped mint leaves. Baste
meat frequently the last hour of roasting with l / 2 cup grape
jelly melted in l / 2 cup hot water.
6. Rub 2 cups cooked apricots and juice through a sieve,
add % cup sugar and cook until thickened. Baste roast with this
during last hour of roasting.
7. Cover meat with pineapple slices 1 hour before meat is
done. Brush with butter so that pineapple will brown.
2 5 8
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FRENCH LAMB CHOPS
French chops are made by scraping the meat and fat from
the bones of rib chops for a little distance from the end. Broil
them over a quick fire, season with salt and pepper, and serve.
They may be sauteed or fried. When cooked in this way,
they are breaded that is, seasoned with salt and pepper and
dipped in beaten egg and then in cracker crumbs.
STUFFED LAMB BREAST
Lamb breast and foreshank 1 cup cooked rice or barley
Salt and pepper 1 tablespoon grated onion
Have foreshank removed from breast and the meat ground.
Have bones of breast cracked so that the meat may be carved
between the ribs. Make a pocket lengthwise in the breast by
cutting the meat close to the ribs. Sprinkle pocket with salt
and pepper. Combine ground meat from the foreshank with
cooked rice or barley. Season with onion, salt and pepper. Fill
pocket with stuffing and sew or skewer edges together. Sprinkle
outside with salt and pepper. Place uncovered in a pan and bake
in a moderately slow oven (300 to 350 F.) for 1 hour, then
cover and continue cooking until tender, about 1 hour longer.
Serves 6.
VARIATIONS Add curry powder to rice stuffing. Fill breast
with Bread Stuffing (page 303 ).
Pork
PORK TENDERLOIN
1 pound tenderloin 3 tablespoons bacon drippings
Flour Salt and pepper
% cup sour cream
Cut tenderloin crosswise into 2 -inch slices. Flatten out and
dredge with flour. Place in hot skillet containing drippings.
Brown on both sides and season with salt and pepper. Reduce
temperature, add cream, cover and simmer until tender, about
20 minutes. Serves 6.
VARIATIONS Place unflattened slices on a baking sheet.
Spread with a thick layer of catchup and bake in a moderate
over (350 F.) until tender, about 45 minutes.
BROILED Do not flatten. Broil as for steaks, (page 243).
MEAT
259
ROAST SPARERIBS
2 pounds spareribs Salt and pepper
Place spareribs in a shallow baking dish and sprinkle with
salt and pepper. Roast in a moderately slow oven (300 to
3 2 5 F. ) about 1 l /z hours. Allow 1 pound per serving.
Cover spareribs with greased paper and roast for % hour,
then roast, uncovered for remaining time. Just before taking
meat from oven, sprinkle with 1 cup bread crumbs seasoned with
5/4 teaspoon each of sage and minced onion. Baste with drippings
in pan and return to oven 5 minutes longer.
STUFFED SPARERIBS Use 2 matching sections of spareribs.
Sew the edges together, except at 1 end. Fill with Bread Stuffing,
Celery Stuffing (page 304) or apple stuffing, and sew or skewer
the edges together. Bake in a moderately slow oven (300 to
325 F.) for \ l / 2 hours.
BARBECUED SPARERIBS Brown spareribs under broiler. Pour
Barbecue Sauce (page 253) over ribs, cover pan and bake.
WITH SAUERKRAUT Brown spareribs. Place sauerkraut in
a greased baking dish. Sprinkle with brown sugar. Add l /2 cup
water and arrange spareribs on top. Cover dish and cook in a
moderately slow oven (300 to 325 F.) for 1 hour.
BRAISED SPARERIBS Place spareribs in a baking dish and
brown in a hot oven (450 F.). Season with salt and pepper,
add l /2 cup water, cover pan and return to oven. Reduce
temperature to moderately slow (325 F.) and continue cooking
until tender, about 40 minutes longer. If desired, place cored
apples around the ribs. Fill centers of apples with brown sugar
and nut meats or raisins.
CROWN AND CANDLE ROAST OF PORK
Crown of pork Pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons salt Cubes of salt pork
Have crown prepared at the market. Rub salt and pepper
into meat. Cover tip of each bone with salt pork. Roast in a
moderate oven (350 F.) allowing 30 minutes per pound. To
serve, replace salt pork with paper frills. If desired, center of
roast may be filled with stuffing and baked. See Roast Lamb
(page 256). For candle roast, do not roll ribs but leave loin in
one straight piece. Roast with fat side up.
260
SAUTEED PORK CHOPS
Pork chops are delicious sauted. They require from twenty
to thirty minutes. Some cooks sprinkle a little powdered sage
over them, as well as salt and pepper, and thicken the gravy
with flour. Sauted apples are delicious served with the sauted
pork chops. Tomato sauce is good also.
PORK PIE
2 or 3 poun,ds thick end of Salt and pepper
loin of pork 1 or 2 tablespoons catchup
1 cup stock or water Parsley
Plain pie paste Onion
Cut pork into thick slices three inches long by two wide.
Put a layer on the bottom of a pie-plate and sprinkle chopped
parsley and onion, salt and pepper over it. Repeat until the
dish is full and then pour in stock or water and catchup. Put
a strip of good plain paste around the edge of the dish, cover
with the paste, cut an opening in the center, and set the pie
in a hot oven (450 F.). When the crust rises and begins to
color, place the pie in the bottom of the oven, put a piece of
paper over it and bake at a lower temperature (350 F.) for
two hours. Often the meat is partly cooked before the crust
is put on.
FRESH PORK WITH VEGETABLES
1 pound pork butt 1 small red cabbage
4 large carrots Seasoning
4 large parsnips
Simmer the piece of pork one and one-half houra. Cook the
vegetables in the same kettle until they are soft, then remove
them and finish cooking the meat. Cut the pork into thin
slices. Arrange them side by side down the middle of a large
platter, and make a border of the cabbage, quartered, and the
other vegetables cut into lengths.
BOILED. ' PIGS ' FEET
6 pigs' feet l l / 2 tablespoons salt
Scrape and wash the feet thoroughly and tie each separately
in a piece of cheese-cloth. Put them into a kettle or stew-pan,
MEAT 261
cover with boiling water and add the salt. Let the water boil
up once, then set back on the fire and simmer for six hours.
Cool in the water. When cold, drain, but do not take off the
cloth, and place the feet on a platter. The next day they will
be ready for broiling, frying or pickling.
BROILED.
6 boiled pigs' feet Flour
Salt and pepper Butter
Split each foot, dredge with salt, pepper and flour and broil
over clear coals for ten minutes. Serve on a hot platter, season-
ing with butter, salt and pepper.
f
FRIED.
6 boiled pigs' feet 1 egg
Salt and pepper Bread-crumbs
Lemon-juice
Split the feet and season well with salt, pepper and lemon-
juice. Dip in beaten egg, then in bread-crumbs and fry five
minutes in deep fat (375-390 F.). Drain and serve imme-
diately.
BROWNED.
6 boiled pigs' feet Butter or other fat
l /z cup crumbs 2 cups boiled beets, fresh or
1 egg canned
Dip the feet in beaten egg, then in crumbs, and brown in
fat. Bake in casserole at 350 F., basting with butter or other
fat. Serve in the casserole with beets surrounding the pigs'
feet.
PICKLED (SoucE).
4 good-sized boiled pigs' feet, 1 tablespoon broken cinnamon
with uppers % cup salt
1 quart strong vinegar 2 teaspoons pepper
4 bay-leaves l / 2 onion
1 tablespoon whole cloves 1 blade mace
Clean the feet carefully, and cover them with hot water.
Boil slowly until the meat will separate from the bones, then
take them up carefully on a skimmer? and place them in a
stone jar, taking out the largest bones. Set the water aside in
a cool place to be used later.
262
j^f
Place the vinegar on the fire, adding bay -leaves, cloves, cinna-
mon, salt, pepper, onion cut in eighths, and mace. Steep slowly
in the vinegar for forty-five minutes, but do not allow the
vinegar to boil rapidly at any time. Remove the fat cake from
the top of the water in which the feet were boiled, and save it
for cooking purposes. Add about one quart of the water to
the vinegar; if the vinegar is not very strong, less water must
be added, so that the vinegar may not be too much diluted.
Strain the liquid through a sieve to remove the spice, etc., and
pour it over the meat in the jar, helping it through the meat
with a knife and fork until the two are thoroughly mixed. Set
the jar in a cold place for two days.
SCRAPPLE
1 hog's head Corn-meal
Salt and pepper Buckwheat flour
Powdered herbs
Scrape and clean a hog's head, then split it and take out the
eyes and brain. The butcher will do this, if requested. Clean
the ears and scrape them well. Put all on to boil in plenty of
cold water and simmer gently for four hours, or until the bones
will easily slip from the meat. Lift out the meat and bones into
a colander, remove the bones and chop the meat fine. Skim
off every particle of grease from the water in which the meat
was boiled, and return the meat to the boiling stock in the
kettle. Season highly with salt and pepper and powdered herbs.
Add enough corn-meal and buckwheat flour, in equal quantities,
to make a soft mush, stirring constantly for the first fifteen
minutes, then lower the heat and cook for one hour. Pour
into bread pans, cool, and keep in a cold place until needed.
The scrapple may be served cold or may be cut into slices,
dipped in egg and cracker-crumbs and sauted.
HEAD-CHEESE
1 hog's head with ears and Sage
tongue Sweet marjoram
Salt and pepper Powdered cloves
Head-cheese is usually made of the head, ears and tongue of
pork. Clean the head with the utmost care and boil all the
meat and bones in salted water until the meat is very tender,
MEAT
263
about two or three hours. Take out the head, place it in a
colander to drain, and remove all the bones. Cut the ears in
very thin slices. Season the whole to taste with salt, pepper,
sage, sweet marjoram and other herbs, and a little powdered
cloves. Mix the mass well, and pack it tightly in a bowl, inter-
spersing layers of the mixture with slices of the boiled ears.
Press the whole into a compact shape and cover with a plate,
on which place a heavy weight. The head-cheese will be ready
to use in two or three days. It may be cut in thin slices and
served with vinegar and mustard, or it may be cut in slices,
dipped in egg and cracker-crumbs and fried.
BOILED HAM
1 ham Brown sugar Whole cloves
Wash ham thoroughly, cover with boiling water and sim-
mer, partially covered, for 25 to 30 minutes per pound, or until
meat is tender. When cooked the internal temperature will be
(160 F.). If ham is to be served cold, let it stand in water
until it is cold, then peel off skin and serve. If it is to be
served hot, peel off skin, rub with brown sugar, stick in a few
cloves and bake in a hot oven (400 F.) to brown. When-
ever possible follow packers cooking directions.
ROAST OR BAKED HAM
1 ham 1 teaspoon mustard
Brown sugar Whole cloves
Soft bread-crumbs
Cover ham with boiling water, simmer about 20 minutes per
pound. Whenever possible, follow directions given by packers
as to the best method for cooking their hams. Drain and remove
skin. Mix sugar and crumbs in the proportions of four parts
sugar to one of crumbs, add mustard and spread over ham. In-
sert cloves one inch apart, making a diamond pattern. Bake in
a slow oven (300 F.), allowing ten minutes per pound. To
stuff, remove bone; see Stuffings, page 303.
BROILED HAM
Place the slices on broiler and turn them frequently. Either
boiled ham or raw ham may be used for broiling.
264
FRIED HAM WITH CREAM GRAVY
1 pound ham in slices 1 cup milk
about l /2 inch thick Pepper
1 tablespoon flour
If the ham is too salt, place it in a frying-pan, cover with
cold water and set the pan on a range in mild heat. When the
steam commences to rise, pour off the water and add more cold
water. As soon as this water steams, lift out the slices of meat
and drain well before frying. Place the meat in a hot pan,
and cook without addition of fat, unless the ham is exception-
ally lean; in this case, a spoonful of drippings should be used.
When the ham is nicely browned, place it on a platter, and
add a cup of milk to the fat in the pan. When this boils,
thicken it to a cream with one or two tablespoons of flour mixed
to a smooth paste with a little cold milk, season with pepper,
then turn the gravy over the ham. A more simple gravy is
made by adding a little hot water to the fat in the pan and
pouring this over the meat.
FRIED HAM AND EGGS
Fry a slice of ham, browning both sides. Break each egg
separately in a saucer and slip into the hot fat in the frying-
pan. Lower the heat, and baste with the hot fat. As soon as
the color changes, they are done. Place them on top of the
ham and send to the table hot.
SAUSAGES
1 pound sausage 1 cup milk
1 tablespoon flour Salt and pepper
When cooking sausage in casings, prick the skins thoroughly
with a steel fork to prevent their brusting. If cooking in bulk,
shape the sausage meat into balls with the hands. Place them
in a hot frying-pan and fry until brown, adding no fat, as
there will generally be plenty in the meat. When done, re-
move the sausage to a platter. Pour off all but one tablespoon
of fat, add one tablespoon of dry flour and cook one minute,
stirring all the time; then gradually add one cup of milk, still
stirring. When the gravy is boiling and is of a creamy con-
HE CANDLE ROAST OF
PORK IS AN INTERESTING
VARIATION
National Live Stock and
Meat Board
WHEN THE BONE IS A NUI-
SANCE, REMOVE IT ANB
STUFF THE HAM BEFORE
BAKING
THE 8ROILER 08 FRYER IS MORE
DELECTABLE WHEN YOU BREAK
ALL THE JOINTS, CLIP OFF
THE NECK AND BACKBONE
AND SNAP OUT THE BREAST-
BONE. ADD THESE BITS T
YOUR SOUP KETTLE
Institute American Potiltry
Industries
,
MEAT 265
sistency, add salt and pepper to taste, pour the gravy over the
sausage and serve.
POTTED HAM
1 cup cold cooked ham Powdered mace
Cayenne pepper Mustard
Mince some cold, cooked ham, mixing lean and fat together,
and pound in a mortar, seasoning with a little cayenne pepper,
mace and mustard. Put into a baking-dish and place in the
oven (350 F.) for one-half hour; afterward pack it into pots
or little stone jars, covering with paraffin and paper,, This is
convenient for sandwiches.
FRIED OR BROILED BACON
Cut the bacon very thin. Place in a hot pan and cook until
brown. Turn the slices frequently, and in cooking a large
quantity remove some of the fat from the pan occasionally.
To broil bacon, place the strips on a broiler and lay the
broiler over a dripping-pan. Bake in the oven or broil under
direct heat. To keep bacon flat, broil between racks.
BACON AND EGGS
Fry lean strips of bacon .until crisp. Remove and lay them
on a platter. Break the eggs separately, gently slide them into
the bacon fat and cook until they are set. See page 373.
FRIED SALT PORK WITH CREAM GRAVY
1 pound salt pork 1 pint milk
10 tablespoons flour Salt and pepper
Cut the slices thin and place them in cold water. After they
have soaked one hour, drain well and dry them on a napkin.
Heat the frying-pan very hot. Place one-half cup (8 table-
spoons) of flour on a plate and dip each piece of meat in it.
Fry until crisp. Drain off all but two tablespoons of the fat
and stir two tablespoons of flour into that remaining in the
pan. Cook two minutes, stirring well, then reduce the heat
and slowly add one pint of milk. When the gravy is smooth,
cook one minute and add pepper and salt, if needed. Turn the
gravy over the meat and serve.
266
^N^^^-^_^N^^^^V--^V-^-X-^^-N^^_^V-^-V-'
LIVER CASSEROLE
1 pound calf's liver 1 teaspoon Worcestershire
% cup tomato sauce sauce
Dash salt and pepper
Wash liver, cut into IJ/z-inch cubes and place in casserole.
Add sauce and seasoning, cover and bake at 350 F. l / 2 hour.
Just before serving, add Worcestershire sauce.
BRAISED LIVER WITH STUFFING
1 calf's liver (about 2 pounds) Flour to dredge
Bread Stuffing No. 2 3 strips salt pork
(page 303) y% cup water
Salt and pepper
Wipe liver with a damp cloth and dry. Make an incision in
the thickest part using a sharp knife. Fill with stuffing, sew edges
together, season with salt and pepper and dredge with flour.
Place in a baking pan and place strips of salt pork on top. Add
water, cover pan and cook in a moderate oven (350 F.) until
tender, 1 l /z to 2 hours. About 1 minutes before serving remove
cover so that salt pork may brown. Thicken gravy in pan and
serve with meat. Serves 8.
VARIATION Bacon may be used in place of salt pork.
LIVER AND BACON
Y 2 pound sliced bacon Flour
ll/2 pounds calf's liver, cut 1 teaspoon salt
Y 2 inch thick y s teaspoon pepper
Place a single layer of bacon in a cool frying pan and place
over low heat. Turn bacon frequently and drain off excess fat
so that the bottom of the pan is well greased. Cook slowly until
bacon is light golden brown and crisped. Drain on absorbent
paper. Keep in a hot place. Wipe liver with a damp cloth and
dry thoroughly. Roll in flour to which salt and pepper have
been added. Saute in drippings at reduced heat 5 to 8 minutes,
until browned on both sides and center is just done. Overcook-
ing ruins liver. Serves 4.
Place the liver in the center of the platter with the bacon
MEAT 267
around it as a garnish. Put flour into the hot fat in the pan
and stir until brown. Make a medium sauce of this browned
flour and water. Season with salt and pepper, and pour the
gravy over the liver and bacon.
SWEETBREADS
PREPARING SWEETBREADS Sweetbreads should be plunged
into cold water as soon as they are received, and soaked for one
hour, then they should be parboiled in acidulated, salted water
(one teaspoon salt and one tablespoon vinegar to one quart
water) for twenty minutes. After draining they should be
plunged into cold water again to make them firm. The little
strings and membranes, which are easily detached after parboil-
ing, should be removed.
BROILED.
2 pairs sweetbreads Lemon-juice
Butter Salt and pepper
Prepare as directed, then cut into thin slices, sprinkle with
salt and pepper, and broil. Serve with melted butter to which
a little lemon-juice has been added.
FRIED.
2 pairs sweetbreads Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons flour Egg
1 cup milk Bread or cracker-crumbs
Prepare as directed and cut in even-sized slices. Sprinkle
with salt and pepper, dip in beaten egg and crumbs and fry in
deep fat. When well browned on both sides, place them on a
platter. Make a sauce with two tablespoons of the fat in which
the sweetbreads were fried, the flour and milk and season with
salt and pepper.
Fried sweetbreads are often served with green peas, placed
in a mound or a little hill in the center of the platter. Macaroni
may be boiled very tender and laid on the platter and the sweet-
breads placed in the center, the pipes of the macaroni being laid
about them in the form of a nest.
268
CREAMED.
2 pairs sweetbreads 1 teaspoon minced parsley
4 tablespoons butter or other 2 cups milk or cream
fat Salt and pepper
4 tablespoons flour
Prepare as directed and cut into dice. Make a white sauce
with the fat, flour and milk or cream, add the sweetbreads, and
stir steadily until very hot. Season with salt and pepper and
minced parsley.
LARDED.
2 pairs sweetbreads 1 pint seasoned stock
Salt pork for larding 6 slices toast
Prepare sweetbreads as directed. Lard them with salt pork,
letting the ends of the strips curl over the edge of the sweet-
breads. Lay in a roasting-pan, pour the stock over them, cover
and cook in a slow oven (350 F.) for one hour. Serve on
toast. Thicken the gravy in the pan and pour it around them.
STEWED CALF'S HEART
2 calves' hearts 2 tablespoons flour
1 bay-leaf 2 tablespoons butter or other
Salt and pepper fat
l /z lemon
Hearts must be carefully washed and the veins, arteries and
clotted blood removed. After washing, place the hearts in a
kettle with enough boiling water to cover them, and simmer
for one and one-half hours. Remove all the fat, and set aside
to cool. When the dish is intended for breakfast, this cooking
must be done the day before.
In the morning, cut the heart into small pieces, remove all
the cords and artery cases, and use only the lean portions. Place
the chopped heart in a saucepan, add the water and bay-leaf, a
dusting of salt and pepper, and simmer gently for ten minutes.
Rub the flour and butter or other fat together, add them, with
sliced lemon, stir thoroughly for five minutes, and serve at
once.
MEAT 269
STEWED BEEF HEART
1 beef heart 1 tablespoon chopped celery
Bread Stuffing No. 3, omit- Flour or corn-starch
ting sage
Wash the heart well, remove the large veins and arteries from
the inside and take out every particle of blood. Add the celery
to the stuffing and stuff the cavity of the heart. Tie the heart
about with twine, and wrap it in a cloth, sewing the ends to-
gether to keep the stuffing in. Place in a small stewpan with
the point of the heart down, and nearly cover with water boil-
ing hot. Place the lid on the stew-pan and simmer gently for
three hours. When done, there should be about one pint of
water in the pan. Remove the cloth and place the heart on a
platter. Thicken the liquor in the pan with flour or corn-
starch mixed with a little cold water, and season with salt and
pepper. Pour tjie gravy over and around the heart.
SMOKED BEEF TONGUE
1 smoked beef tongue 10 chopped, cooked mush-
1 cup Spanish sauce rooms
Scrub the tongue. Soak it in cold water over night, then
place it in enough fresh cold water to cover it, and simmer for
five hours. Drain, lay in cold water for two or three minutes,
remove the skin, trimming the thick end of the tongue neatly,
and again place it in hot water for a few minutes. Drain and
lay on the serving-dish, and pour over it sauce piquante or
Spanish sauce, to which the mushrooms have been added just
before serving.
VIRGINIA BEEF TONGUE
1 beef tongue, fresh l / 4 cup butter or other fat
1 cup brown sugar 1 tablespoon whole cloves
1 cup stewed cranberries J/2 lemon
Scrub the tongue and simmer it until tender, in water to
cover. Remove the skin and trim the root end. Take one cup
of the liquor in which the tongue was cooked and add the
brown sugar, stewed cranberries, butter or other fat, cloves,
and lemon, sliced. Simmer the tongue in this mixture for one-
270
*%-^w^x
fourth hour. Place on a dish with the sauce, garnish with slices
of lemon and sprigs of p?.rsley and serve.
Tongue may be jellied and served cold.
BRAIN RISSOLES
2 cups brains or 2 tablespoons chopped green
1 whole brain pepper
Pie paste or short biscuit l /z cup thick white sauce
dough % teaspoon salt
Put the brains into a bowl of cold water, with salt, for
thirty minutes. Cover with water and simmer fifteen minutes.
Remove fiber and outer membrane. Drain, chop or put
through the meat grinder, add seasoning and white sauce.
Form into small balls. Roll pie paste or short biscuit dough
quite thin. Place the balls on the paste equal distances apart.
Place another sheet of paste over all. Stamp out with round
cutter or cut them apart and press upper and lower crusts to-
gether. Bake in hot oven (450 F.) for fifteen minutes.
Brown in deep hot fat or oil (375-390 F.) before serving.
STEWED KIDNEYS
3 cups veal or beef kidneys 2 tablespoons flour
2 bay-leaves 2 tablespoons butter or other
l /2 lemon fat
Salt and pepper
Split the kidneys and cut out the hard, white substances and
fat from the center. Wash them well and soak for three or
four hours in cold water, changing the water as soon as it be-
comes cloudy. Then put the kidneys into a granite pan, add
enough cold water to cover them and heat slowly. When just
at the boiling-point, pour off the hot water and again just
cover them with cold water, once more heating slowjy and again
changing the water when hot. Change the water in this way
three times, then simmer (twenty minutes for small kidneys;
forty minutes for a beef kidney.) Set away to cool. If the
stew is to be used for a breakfast dish, this preliminary cooking
must be done the day before. When ready to prepare, separate
all the cords and veins from the kidneys, leaving only the lean
part. Cut this into small pieces. Place the chopped kidneys
MEAT 271
in a granite pan, add the bay-leaves, two cups of water and
the lemon, sliced, and simmer for twenty minutes. When
ready to serve, remove the bay-leaves, add the flour rubbed
smooth in the butter or other fat, season with salt and pepper^
and when thickened to the consistency of cream, serve on a
hot dish.
BROILED KIDNEYS
6 lamb's or 4 calf's kidneys Butter
Cooking oil Lemon
Salt and pepper Parsley
Cut the kidneys into halves, remove the white tubes and fat
and cover with cold water for thirty minutes. Drain and dry
on a piece of cheese-cloth. Brush with, or dip into, cooking
oil. Broil slowly until brown on both sides. Remove from the
broiler and put in pan, sprinkle with salt, pepper and a little
melted butter. Cover the pan and set over a slow fire for a
few minutes. Serve garnished with slices of lemon and sprigs
of parsley.
SAUTEED KIDNEYS
Remove the skin from the kidneys, cut them into thin round
slices, and soak them in salted water for thirty minutes. Drain
and wipe. Saute until tender in butter or other fat. Serve with
brown sauce or tomato sauce.
If preferred, cut the kidneys in half after skinning, remove
the white tubes and fat and then slice the kidneys lengthwise.
TRIPE
PREPARING TRIPE Tripe is usually sold in the city markets
already cleaned. If not so obtainable, wash wel 
