! i
A
MERICAN
From the collection of the
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Prejinger
Jjibrary
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San Francisco, California
2006
A 7lu W
/\ME RICAN WOMAN'S
COOK BOOK
Edited and Revised by
Rtttn Bcrol^neimcr
Directory-
Culinary Arts Institute
From the
DELINEATOR COOK BOOK
Edited by
Delineator Institute,
Mildred Haddocks Bentley, Director
Martha Van Rensselaer and Flora Rose
Directors, College of Home Economics
-Cornell University
Published for
CULINARY ARTS INSTITUTE
by
CONSOLIDATED BOOK PUBLISHERS, INC.
CHICAGO, 1939
Copyright, 1939
by
Consolidated Book Publishers,
Incorporated
Chicago, 111.
Copyrights of previous works in which
certain parts of this book appeared
Copyright,
MCMXXVIII
MCMXXXIV
by
Butterick Publishing Company
Entered at Stationers' Hall, London, England
Copyright,
MCMXXXVIII
by
Consolidated Book Publishers,
Incorporated
Manufactured in the United States of America
by The Cuneo Press, Inc.
Table of Contents
PAGE
Useful Facts about Food - 1
How to Buy Food - 35
Food Values and Meal
Planning - - - - 39
Menu Making - 47
The Scliool Lunch - 60
Table Setting and Service 64
Carving - 83
Garnishes - - - - 88
Cereals ------ 92
Yeast Breads 97
Quick Breads - - - - 117
Sandwiches - - - - 131
Toast ------ 156
Appetizers - - - - - 158
Soups ------165
Soup Accessories - - - 186
Fish - - - - 191
Meat - 228
Poultry and Game - - 274
Stuffings for Fish, Meat,
Poultry and Game - - 303
Sauces for Fish, Meat,
Poultry, Game and
Vegetables - - - - 307
Entrees and Made- Over
Dishes ----- 326
Vegetarian Dishes - - - 351
Egg Dishes - - - - - 360
Cheese 374
Vegetables - - - - - 383
Salads 424
PAGE
Salad Dressings - - 446
Cakes - - - - - 451
Cake Fillings and Frost -
ings ----- 472
Cookies, Doughnuts, Gin-
gerbread, Small Cakes - 483
Candies - 502
Fruit Desserts - - - - 517
Custards, Gelatin and
Cream Desserts - - 525
Hot and Cold Puddings - 539
Frozen Desserts - - - 557
Sauces for Desserts - - 579
Pastry and Meringues - 585
French Recipes - - - 615
Hot and Cold Beverages 635
Food for Invalids - - - 650
High Altitude Cooking - 657
Canning, Preserving and
Jelly Making - - - 658
Pickles and Relishes - - 687
Casserole and Oven Cook-
ery 701
Cooking for Two - - - 710
Cooking at the Table - - 718
Food Equivalents - - - 722
The Friends Who Honor
Us - 724
Herbs, Spices, Extracts - 730
Foreign Words and Phrases 734
Wine Seasons Fine Food - 737
Index 759
List of Illustrations
PAGE
REFER
ILLUSTRATION TO PACE
PAGE
REFER
ILLUSTRATION TO PAGE
APPETIZERS
486A
Frosted Delights - 484
164B
160 A
164 A
164B
Appetizers - - - - 162
Canapes and Appetiz-
ers (color) - 158-162
Cocktail Tray - - - 158
Individual Sandwich
471B
480A
486A
486A
457A
Fruit Cake - - - - 465
How to Frost a Cake - 472
How to Make Cookies 483
Icebox Cookies - - - 485
Martha Washington
T r**airrf=kC ISO
Pie 469, 474
480B
Novelty Frostings - 478-482
BREADS
486B
Petits Fours - - - - 496
122A
Apple Flapjacks - - 121
486B
Sugar Cookies - - - 484
1 ^ e A
A CQr^rtArJ f^ni^V Rr^or^c
406 A
T" rtA Ajdf
1 70 1 ^0
Tt.yO ( /\
471 A
TT 'r\ T) C ]f A
100B
Assorted Rolls - - - 110
T / l/\
471B
White Mountain Cake 461
100A
Braided Bread - - 101
CANDIES
106 A
Bread and Rolls
496B
Assorted Candies - - 502
(color) - - - 108-1 IX)
56C
Pulled Sugar - - - - 516
332A
100B
Bread Croustades - - 329
Clover-Leaf Rolls - - 109
56C
Spun Sugar - - - - 515
125A
157B
100B
112A
100A
125A
Corn Bread - - - - 127
Gingerbread - - - - 494
Cornucopia - - - - 157
Crescent Rolls - - - 109
English Muffins - - - 110
Folding the Dough - 101
Gingerbread - - - - 494
Corn Bread - - - - 127
378B
390B
758
187A
187 A
378A
CHEESE
Cheese Biscuit - - - 382
Cheese Fondue on
Asparagus - - - 623
Cheese Fruit Tray - - 374
Cheese Rolls - - - - 186
Cheese Sticks - - 186, 381
Cheese Tray - - - 374
112A
112B
100 A
112B
Honey Sandwich Loaf - 129
Honey Twist - - - 115
Kneading the Dough - 100
Pecan Caramel Rolls - 126
Swedish Tea Ring - - 111
43 5A
435B
139B
435B
378A
Frosted Melon - - - 440
Pear-Grape Salad - - 440
Toasted Cheese Loaf - 157
Tomato Rose Salad - 434
Welsh Rarebit - - - 377
122B
Popovers ----- 119
DESSERTS
125B
Sally Lunn - - - - 126
572A
Baked Alaska - - - 568
125B
Scones 126
24B
Banana Fritters - - - 493
112B
Swedish Tea Ring - - 111
535B
Bavarian Cream - - 534
Pecan Caramel Rolls - 126
572B
Bombes ----- 578
157B
Toast 156
535B
Charlotte Russe - - 536
157A
Toasted Loaf - 157
122B
Coffee Cakes - - - 113
122 A
Waffles ----- 122
549B
Date Pudding - - - 550
CAKES, COOKIES
549B
549A
English Plum Pudding 548
Fruit Pudding - - 549
457B
Cakes of Many
6A
Fruit Tartlets - - - 604
Varieties - - 451-471
535A
Garnishing Custards - 554
471 A
Chocolate Marshmallow
53 5A
Hard Sauce - - - - 581
Roll A~ff\
c f/"D
JOOD
Ice Cream in Canta-
457A
Devil's Food Cake - 458
IV
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
REFER
ILLUSTRATION TO PAGE
PAGE
REFER
ILLUSTRATION TO PAGE
566B
Ice Cream in Meringue
MEATS
Cups - -
499
363B
Bacon
265
572B
Ice Cream Sandwich -
569
Fluffy Eggs - - - -
373
496A
Plum Puddings - - -
548
290A
Boning and Stuffing
5 49 A
Rennet-Custard - - -
554
Shoulder - - - - -
303
496B
Shortcake - - - -
547
256B
Breast of Lamb - - -
258
5 66 A
Vanilla Ice Cream with
Stuffed Onions - - -
403
Strawberries - - -
563
2 64 A
Candle Roast of Pork -
259
85A
Carving Leg O'Lamb -
85
EGGS
85B
Carving Steak and Roast
363B
Fluffy Eggs - - - -
373
02
,84
TJ
265
256A
Crown Roast of Lamb -
256
363B
Ham and Eggs - - -
264
341A
Flank Steak Fillets - -
343
363A
Poached Eggs - - -
360
Onion Sauce - - -
315
363A
Puffy Omelet - - -
363
363B
Ham and Eggs - - -
264
t
256A
Leg O'Lamb - - - -
257
ENTREES
341B
Meat Balls - - - -
245
332A
Bread Croustades - -
329
230A,
B,QD
332D
Chicken Mousse- - -
350
Meat Cut Charts - -
230
332A
Creamed Salmon - -
219
243B
Planked Steak - - -
244
341B
Croquettes - - - 335-341
239A,
B Pot Roast of Beef -
239
157A
Entree Treasure Chest
621B
Rechauffe of Lamb -
620
2-?q
224
242A
Roast Beef with York-
332B
Muffin Tin Timbales
shire Pudding
227
220
(color) - ...
242
328A
Noodle Ring with
jj\j
243A
Roasting Beef - - -
242
Creamed Chicken
243B
Rolled Roast - - - -
231
332D
(color) - - - -
Noodle Ring with
Vegetables - - - -
344
344
621B
2 64 A
341A
Sausage and Corn - -
Stuffed Ham - - - -
Stuffed Peppers - - 346,
619
263
347
332C
Timbale Cases - - -
331
PIES. PASTRIES
Timbales of Toast - -
333
606A
Coconut Cream Pie
(color) - 598,
600
EQUIPMENT
594B
Fruit Dumplings - -
548
32A
Food Mixer - - - -
3
594A
How to Keep Pies in
34
Gadgets -----
Shape
587
6A
6B
38
Oven Management - -
Using Oven and Broiler
A Well-Planned Kitchen
5
2
587A,
594A
594B
B How to Make Pies -
Lattice Top Crust -
Pastry Pinwheels -
585
587
610
POULTRY
FISH
290B
Boning and Rolling
196B
Baked Fish -
196
*^r 1
196A
Cooking Salmon - -
193
85A
Carving Poultry - - -
86
332A
Creamed Salmon - -
219
332D
Chicken Mousse - -
350
196B
Lobster - - - - -
218
407A
Chicken Ring - - -
350
216A
Planked Fish (color) -
200
276B
Brussels Sprouts - -
Methods of Trussing
392
JELLIES, PRESERVES
r> 1
276
683A,
B Jelly -
681
264B
Preparing Poultry - -
275
676A
Orange Marmalade
675
296A
Roast Chicken (color)
277
676A
^7R
Peach Preserves - - -
670
667
276A
Stuffing and Roasting
Chicken - - - -
277
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
REFER
ILLUSTRATION TO PAGE
PAGE
REFER
ILLUSTRATION TO PAGE
PROCESSES
TABLE SETTINGS
24B
32B
24A
32B
Clarifying Fat - - -
Correct Measurements -
Deep Fat Frying - -
Whipping Cream - -
2^
13
24
33
56B
76A
76B,
76D
Bridal Breakfast Table -
Buffet Dining Table -
C Dinner Service Chart
Table Settings - - -
57
726
76
76
427A
SALADS
Cabbage in Aspic - -
428
56B
Thanksgiving Dinner
Table
56
435A
Frosted Melon - - -
440
435A
Fruit Salad Bowl -
441
VEGETABLES
436A
435B
427B
Molded Fruit Salad
(color) - - 427, 437,
Pear-Grape Salad
Salad Bowl - - - -
530
440
441
390B
390B
Artichokes with Hol-
landaise Sauce - 388,
Asparagus with Cheese
312
427B
435B
Stuffed Tomato - - -
Tomato Rose Salad
433
434
621A
Fondue - - - -
Asparagus with Hol-
623
427A
Vegetable Plate with 388
-423
landaise Sauce - 389,
312
Hollandaise Sauce -
312
407A
Brussels Sprouts - -
392
SANDWICHES
T Q/iR
Chicken Ring - - -
350
o c c
164B
I ndi vidual Sandwich
Loaves
150
;?yOij
407B
Cauliflower - - - -
JJJ
393
139B
Sandwiches - - - 131
-155
Potato Cups - - - -
408
139A
Sandwich Loaf -
150
1Q/C A
(-.
ao<;
1 J t /A\
139A
Sandwich Treasure
^ vo/x
621B
Corn with Sausage - -
oy .>
619
Chest
132
621A
Lima Beans Neufchatel
625
139B
Toasted Cheese Loaf -
157
407B
Pigs in Taters - - -
406
SOUPS
407B
Potato Cups - - - -
408
190
Assorted Soup Acces-
Cauliflower - - - -
393
187A
187A
170B
sories
Cheese Rolls - - - -
Cheese Sticks - - 186,
Consomme - - - -
186
186
381
168
m"
407A
256B
341A
Squash - - - - -
Stuffed Onions - - -
Breast of Lamb - - -
Stuffed Peppers - - 346,
418
403
258
347
170A
170B
Cream of Corn Soup -
Cream Soup - - - -
178
177
396B
3 90 A
Toasted Carrots - - -
Vegetable Cookery - -
393
385
170B
Pea Soup - - - -
174
91
Vegetable Garnishes -
90
Consomme - - - 168,
171
427A
Vegetable Plate with 388
-423
187B
Soup Accessories - -
186
Hollandaise Sauce
312
AT YOUR SERVICE
Unless otherwise specified, all recipes are based on service for six
persons. When cooking for more, multiply the ingredients in direct
proportion. When fewer are to be served, divide by two or three
as necessary. A full discussion of the problems of small quantity
preparations is found in the chapter entitled "Cooking for Two"
VI
m
m
p II
THE FORMAL
TEA PARTY IS THE
OPPORTUNITY FOR AIL
YOUR DAINTIEST. TOUCHES
The editor wishes to acknowledge the gen-
erous and wholehearted cooperation of those
who put at our disposal the beautiful photo-
graphs and color plates ^vhich appear in
this book.
Armour and Company
The Best Foods, Inc.
Booth Fisheries Corporation
Campbell Soup Company
Canned Salmon Industry
Chicago Flexible Shaft Company
Corn Products Refining Company
Corning Class Works
Fostoria Class Company
Fruit Dispatch Company
Caper Catering Company
General Foods Corporation
Hawaiian Pineapple Company, Ltd.
Hotpoint
Institute American Poultry Industries
Irradiated Evaporated Milk Institute
John F. Jelke Company
The Junket Folks
Kalamazoo Vegetable Parchment
Company
Kraft- Phenix Cheese Corporation
Mandel Brothers
Mirro Aluminum
Modern Science Institute
National Dairy Council
National Live Stock and Meat Board
The Palmer House
Peoples Gas Light and Coke Company
Reed and Barton
Sterling Silversmiths Guild of America
Swift and Company
Towle Manufacturing Company
U. S. Bureau Home Economics
West Bend Aluminum Company
Wheat Flour Institute
All color plates, end papers and illustrations on the jacket are
by courtesy of
THE CARNATION MILK COMPANY
and
LAND 0' LAKES CREAMERIES
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT
FOOD
USE OF RECIPES
TO become a good cook requires more than the blind follow-
ing of a recipe. This is frequently illustrated when several
women living in the same community, all using the same
recipe, obtain widely differing results. It is the reason so many
cooks say, "I had good luck with my cake to-day," or "I had
bad luck with my bread yesterday." Happily, luck causes
neither the success nor the failure of a product. To become a
good cook means to gain a knowledge of foods and how they
behave, and skill in manipulating them. The recipe by itself,
helpful as it is, will not produce a good product; the human
being using the recipe must interpret it and must have skill in
handling the materials it prescribes.
Some of the lessons which the person desiring to become a
good cook should learn are given in the following pages. They
will not be learned all at once; but if they are gradually
mastered, luck will play a less important part in culinary con-
versation.
Methods of Cooking Food
BOILING is cooking in water at a temperature of 212
Fahrenheit. At this temperature water will bubble vigorously
and as these bubbles come to the surface of the water steam
is given off. (In mountainous regions, where the boiling-point
is affected by atmospheric pressure, allowance must be made
for the variation.)
SIMMERING is cooking in water at a temperature of 180 F.
to 210 F., or below the boiling-point of water. Only an oc-
casional bubble is formed and rises slowly to the surface.
STEWING is cooking in a small amount of water. The water
may boil or simmer, as indicated for the food that is to be
cooked.
STEAMING is cooking in the steam generated by boiling water.
PRESSURE COOKING is cooking in steam at a pressure of 5 to
30 pounds and at temperatures 228 F. to 274 F. The rise
in the temperature of the steam is caused by holding it under
pressure. A special cooker is necessary for this cooking. From
10 to 15 pounds (240 to 250 F.) is the pressure ordinarily
used for household purposes.
BROILING is cooking over or under or in front of a fire of
live coals or a gas or electric burner, or other direct heat.
OVEN BROILING is cooking in a broiler pan (either with or
without a rack) that runs close under the heat in the broiling
oven of a gas or electric stove.
PAN BROILING is cooking in a hot griddle or pan greased only
enough to prevent food from sticking.
BAKING is cooking in the oven. The temperature of baking
varies with the food to be prepared. A slow oven should be
from 250 F. to 350 F. A moderate oven should be from
350 F. to 400 F. A hot oven should be from 400 F. to
450 F. A very hot oven should be from 450 F. to 550 F.
POACHING is cooking, for a short time, foods such as eggs or
fish or mixtures of these foods, in water, milk, or stock, just
below the boiling temperature.
OVEN POACHING is cooking in the oven in a dish set in hot
water. The method is used for custards, souffles, and other egg
mixtures of delicate texture which are cooked in the oven.
ROASTING as now used means the same as baking. Originally
it meant cooking before an open fire and was similar to broil-
ing.
FRYING is cooking in hot fat at a temperature of from
350 F. to 400 F., depending on the nature of the food
to be cooked. The article to be cooked is immersed in the fat.
SAUTEING is cooking in a small quantity of fat. The article
to be cooked must be shifted from side to side to come in con-
tact with the fat. Sauteing is a cross between pan broiling
and frying.
BRAIZING is a combination of stewing or steaming with bak-
ing. The food to be braized is first stewed or steamed and then
baked.
FRICASSEEING is a combination of sauteing with stewing or
steaming. The food to be fricasseed is first sauted, then stewed
or steamed.
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD
s~*^*S* lt S\*r* l ^\^^^\S**-'*>~i^~s*^^^
FIRELESS COOKING is cooking by heat that has been retained
in a fireless cooker or insulated oven. It is accomplished by
surrounding the thoroughly heated food with some insulating
material to keep the heat from being lost rapidly.
Methods of Mixing Food
STIRRING Food is stirred by a rotary motion of the arm.
The purpose of stirring is to mix thoroughly all ingredients.
BEATING Food is beaten when the motion in mixing brings
the contents at the bottom of the bowl to the top and there is
a continual turning over and over of a considerable part of the
contents of the bowl. The purpose of beating is to enclose a
large amount of air.
FOLDING IN Two foods are blended by putting the spoon or
egg- whip vertically down through the foods, turning it under
the mass, and bringing it vertically up. This process is repeated
until the mixing is complete. The purpose of folding in is to
prevent the escape of air or gases that have already been intro-
duced into the mixture.
CUTTING IN A process used to blend fat with flour. It
consists of cutting the fat into the flour with a knife or two
knives until it is distributed in as small particles as desired.
CREAMING A rubbing together of fat and sugar, or a press-
ing and beating of fat to soften it.
KNEADING A stretching motion applied to dough when
more flour is to be added than can be either stirred or beaten
into the mixture; or used to make a dough smooth and even in
consistency.
LARDING A process of inserting match-like strips of salt
pork about one-fourth inch in thickness into a dry meat or fish.
These strips are called lardons, and are inserted either by mak-
ing an incision in the surface and laying the lardon in the slash-
ing or by the use of a larding-needle. The pork is clamped into
one end of the needle and is threaded into the meat, as in any
sewing process.
COOKING BY TEMPERATURE
For best results in cooking, exact temperatures should be
known and followed. This requires the use of thermometers
such as an oven thermometer or an oven-heat regulator for all
sorts of baking, and special thermometers for sugar cookery,
deep-fat frying, and roasting meats.
AUTOMATIC MECHANICAL OVEN-HEAT REGULATORS which
control temperature automatically by regulating the supply of
heat are available in both gas and electric ranges. These are of
great assistance alike to the experienced cook who would always
obtain the same results with a given recipe and to the beginner
who has nothing to guide her in estimating the length of time
required to get the slow, moderate and hot stages in her oven.
HEAT REGULATORS OR TEMPERATURE CONTROLS must al-
ways be built into a gas range at the factory, and they must
usually be built into electric ranges. For both types of stove
they may be set to control a desired temperature automatically.
Once set, they will maintain the temperature to within a few
degrees Fahrenheit of that indicated, for an indefinite period.
TIME CONTROLS are now quite common on modern ranges
and even on fireless cookers, and, in combination with the
temperature controls, they are almost uncanny, for they will
turn heat on at a definite time and off again at another speci-
fied moment. This makes it possible to put a meal in the oven
or cooker in the morning and leave it with the assurance that
it will start to cook at five o'clock in the afternoon and that
the heat will be turned off again at five forty-five. As today's
ovens and cookers are thoroughly insulated, the heat retained
in the oven wall and in the food will complete the cooking.
Moreover, since they are cooking on a decreasing heat, there
is little or no danger of burning food, even if you should be
delayed beyond the time when you planned to return.
THERMOMETERS THAT CAN BE SET IN THE OVEN may be
used where an oven heat regulator is not available. A small
flash light is useful for reading them in a dark oven.
OTHER THERMOMETERS may be bought for candy and
frosting, for deep fat frying, and for roasting meats. The cost
of these thermometers is not large and they will soon pay for
themselves in saving of time and food.
IF THESE DEVICES ARE NOT AVAILABLE the next best thing
is to seek to develop delicacy of feeling and knowledge of prac-
tical tests which will detect differences in temperatures. This ?
of course, comes only with experience.
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD
Cooking Periods and Temperatures
Oven Temperatures for Baking
Degrees Fahrenheit
Slow oven 250 to 350
Moderate oven 350 to 400
Quick or hot oven 400 to 450
Very hot oven 450 to 550
Note Explaining the Use of Figures in the Following Tables.
When two degrees of temperature or two periods of time are given,
separated by a dash, (e.g. 350 375 or 30 40) it means that the
temperature of the cooking medium or the length of the cooking
period may range between these two extremes.
"When the temperature figures are separated by the word "to" (e.g.
400 to 350) it means that cooking is to be started at the tempera-
ture first given and that the heat is afterward to be reduced to the
second figure.
TABLE I
BREAD, CAKES, COOKIES AND PASTRY
BAKED
To bake loav.es of yeast bread, heat the oven to the higher tempera-
ture given, and leave it at this degree for about fifteen minutes. Then
reduce it to the lower figure for the remainder of the baking period.
See table of oven temperatures above.
Temperature of Oven
Degrees Fahrenheit Baking Period
Yeast, white (loaves) 400 to 375 Minutes 60
graham or whole wheat
(loaves) 400to350 " 60
Baking-powder (quick bread,
loaves) 400 " 40 50
Corn bread (sheets) 400 Minutes 20 25
Biscuits, baking-powder 450 460 12 15
Muffins, yeast 400 425 20 30
baking-powder 400 425 20 25
Popovers 450 to 350 35 40
Rolls, yeast 400 425 20 25
Temperature of Oven
Cake Degrees Fahrenheit
Angel 275300
Butter, plain loaf 350 375
sheet or cup 375
layer 375
pound 350
Fruit, small 325
large 275
Molasses, sheet 350 375
cup 350375
Sponge, loaf 300325
sheet 325
Cookies
Drop 375 400
Filled 400 425
Ginger snaps 375
Macaroons 250 300
Molasses 350375
Thin, rolled 350375
Gingerbread 350375
Pastry
Cheese straws, etc 500
Cream puffs and eclairs 400 to 350
Meringues, cooked separately . .250 300
on pies and puddings 300 350
Pie crust, shells, large pies . . . .450 500
tarts 400 450
Pies, double crust with fruit
filling 450to425
single crust, (custard,
pumpkin, etc.) 450 to 325
Turnovers, etc 450
Baking Period
Minutes 60 75
" 4560
20 30
20
" 6075
7590
Hours 3 4
Minutes 25 30
1525
4060
" 30
1215
1015
810
1520
1820
1012
30 40
Minutes 10
45
4060
S 10
20 40
1520
" 40
40
15
TABLE II
CUSTARDS, SOUFFLES, SCALLOPED DISHES
AND PUDDINGS
BAKED
For table of oven temperatures, see page 5
Au Gratin Dishes Degrees Fahrenheit Baking Period
(to brown crumbs) ........ .400 Minutes 10
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD
,^^X>/-N*X% 1 X-N B1 ^S^N - ^VX-X>'N^''^
Custards Degrees Fahrenheit Baking Period
Large (surrounded by water) . . . 300 350 Minutes 35 45
In cups (surrounded by water) 300 350 20 25
Puddings
Batter, cottage, etc 375 400 35 45
Bread 250350 4560
Indian 250350 Hours 23
Rice or tapioca 250 350 1 2
Scalloped Dishes
(not potatoes) 350 400 Minutes 15 30
Souffles
(surrounded by water) 375 20 30
Timbales
(surrounded by water) 250 325 35 45
TABLE III
MEAT, POULTRY AND FISH
ROASTED
For table of oven temperatures, see page 5
The number of minutes per pound which a roast requires for
cooking at a given temperature is only an approximation. The
accurate way of determining doneness is by the internal tem-
perature shown on the meat thermometer inserted into the roast.
All boned cuts require longer cooking time than those with
the bones left in. Allow about 10 minutes per pound longer for
cooking boned cuts.
Many hams now on the market require shorter cooking time.
For these hams, follow directions given with them.
If one wishes to sear meat, the oven may be preheated (450-
475 F.) and the meat placed in the hot oven for 10 or 15 min-
utes, then the temperature reduced quickly to 300 F. for the
rest of the cooking period. Searing, however, does not keep in
juices. The constant low temperature method is preferred.
Oven Temperature Roasting Period
Meat Total, hrs.
Braized meats 350 F. 22^
Meat en casserole 350 F. 2 2l/ 2
Meat pie with crust (meat previously Total, mins.
cooked) 450 F. 30
Oven Internal Minutes
Beef Temperature Temperature Per Pound
Rare 300 F. 140 F. 18 to 20
Medium 300 F. 160 F. 22 to 25
Well done 300 F. 170 F. 27 to 30
Pork
Fresh (always well done) . 350 F. 185 F. 30 to 35
Smoked 300 F. 170 F. 25 to 30
Lamb and Mutton
Medium 300 F. 175 F. 25 to 30
Well done 300 F. 180 F. 30 to 35
Veal 300 F. 170 F. 25 to 30
Poultry
Chicken 325 350 F. 2230
Duck, Goose 325 350 F. 2025
Turkey 300 350 F. 1525
Fish Total, mins.
Large 425 to 350 F. 1520
Small or riHets 425 to 350 F. 2030
SIMMERED OR BOILED
Simmering temperatures range from 180 F. to 210 F.
Meat Cooking Period
Fresh
Pot roasts (3-4 Ibs.) Total, hrs. 2 6
o-1 It tt j
Swiss steak
Corned or smoked (4-5 Ibs.) Mins. per Ib. 30 40
Ham Total, hrs. 4 5
Ox tongue 3 4
Poultry
Chicken (3 pounds) - 1V 2
Fowl (4 to 5 pounds)
Turkey (10 pounds) 3 5 l / 2
Fish
Small, thin Mins. per Ib. 5 10
Large, thick 1015
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD
BROILED OR SAUTEED
Meat
Chops, lamb or mutton
pork or veal
Liver, calves or lambs
Steak, 1 inch thick (rare to medium)
l l /2 inch thick (rare to medium) .
Poultry
Chicken
Quail
Squab
Fish
Fillets
Shad, whitefish, bluefish, etc.
Cooking Period
Total, mins. 15 20
2030
10 15
1Q
" " 815
2030
10 20
10 20
515
1520
FRIED
For fried meats, poultry and fish, see Table IV, following
TABLE IV
FRIED FOODS
Deep Fat Frying
Temperature of Fat
Degrees Fahrenheit
Croquettes
And all previously cooked foods 375 390
Doughnuts, Fritters
And all raw batter and dough
mixtures 360 370
Fish
Fillets (sole, cod, etc.) 390
Frogs' legs 390
Small fish (smelts, etc.) 375390
Medium sized fish (trout, etc.) . 390
Fishballs 375 390
Clams 390
Crabs 360
Oysters 375390
Scallops 360
Cooking Period
Total, mins. 2 5
Total, mins. 2 3
46
23
25
25
25
12
35
25
2
_ Temperature of Fat
Meat and Poultry Degrees Fahrenheit Cooking Period
Chicken 375390 Total, mins. 57
Chops or cutlets, breaded 375 400 " " 5 8
Timbale Cases 390 " " 11 y 2
Vegetables
French fried potatoes, onions,
etc 395 " " 4 6
TABLE V
EGGS
BOILED
Temperature of Water
Degrees Fahrenheit Cooking Period
Soft 212 Total, mins. 2 4
Hard 212 " 2030
CODDLED
Soft 180 200 Total, mins, 6 10
Hard 180200 30 45
BAKED
Temperature of Oven
Degrees Fahrenheit
Soft 250350 Total, mins. 610
Hard ..250360 " " 25 40
TABLE VI
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES
BOILED
Fruits Cooking Period Fruits Cooking Period
Apples, cut Mins. 5 8 Prunes, dried
whole 1525 (soaked 1 to 6
dried Hrs. 1 4 hours) Mins. 10
Apricots, dried . . . Hrs. l / 4 2 Pears, summer Mins. 10 20
Berries and small winter 60
fruits Mins. 10 15 Pineapple 20
Cranberries 10 Plums 12
Figs, dried " 20 Quince " 15 40
Peaches " 12 Rhubarb ... " 5
'USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD
II
Vegetables
Artichokes,
French Mins. 30 40
Jerusalem 15 40
Asparagus 15 30
Beans, shell or
string 1535
Lima, green . . 15 35
Navy and
other dried. . . Hrs. 3 4
Beet greens Mins. 1 5 30
Beets, young 3050
old Hrs. 24
Broccoli Mins. 15 25
Brussels sprouts . .
Cabbage
Carrots, young. .
old
Cauliflower ....
Celery
Corn
Cucumber
Dandelion greens
Dasheen
Eggplant
Kohlrabi .
Cooking Period Vegetables Cooking Period
Leeks Mins. 1535
Lentils, dried . . . Hrs. 3 4
Lettuce Mins. 5 1 !5
Okra " 20 40
Macaroni, spa-
ghetti, etc. . . ., w 2535
Onions, young
(scallions) " 815
old 2040
Parsnips " 20 40
Peas, green " 10 30
dried Hrs. 34
Potatoes,
white. . . Mins. 20 45
1520
520
1525
2035
1530
1530
7 12
520
2035
1535
1520
2545
sweet 25 3O
Pumpkin (cut) . . " 30 4O
Rice " 2030
Spinach 5 10
Salsify " 2045
Squash, summer. 10 20
winter " 20 30
Tomatoes " 515
Turnips " 15 40
PERIODS REQUIRED FOR WATERLESS COOKERY OF VEGETABLES
The time required for waterless cookery varies somewhat with the
age of the vegetable and the size of the pieces into which it is cut.
It is generally safe to allow the maximum period given in the preced-
ing tables, if the vegetables are young. For old, fully matured vege-
tables, increase the time from ten to twenty minutes.
BAKED
Temperature of Oven
Degrees Fahrenheit
350375
Bananas 400 450
Pears 350375
Rhubarb . .350 375
Fruits
Apples
Baking Period
Mins. 20 40
" 1520
" 4560
" 20
12
BAKED
Temperature of Oven
Vegetables Degrees Fahrenheit Baking Period
Beans, with pork 250 350 Hrs. 6 8
Cauliflower 375 400 Mins. 30
Eggplant (stuffed) 350375 " 30
Mushrooms 400 450 " 15
Onions, whole (stuffed) 400 450 " 60
sliced 400 450 " 30
Peppers (stuffed) 350375 30
Potatoes, sweet, in skins 400 450 30 40
white, in skins, large 450 500 45 60
small to medium 450 500 30 45
scalloped 350400 Hrs. 1 l J / 2
TABLE VII
CANDY AND FROSTING
Stages in Sugar Cooking
Sirup stage - 220^230
Thread stage 230234
Soft ball stage 234 240
Medium ball stage 240 244
Stiff ball stage 244 250
Hard ball stage 250 264
Light crack stage 264 272
Medium crack stage 272 290
Hard crack stage 290 320
Caramel stage 320 360
CANDIES
Fondant (soft ball stage) 238 240
Fudge and Marshmallow (thread to soft ball stage) .... 230 238
Caramels and Nougat (stiff ball stage) 246 250
Molasses taffy and soft candies to be pulled (hard ball
stage) 245260
Hard candies to be pulled (medium crack stage) 272 290
Toffee and butterscotch (medium to hard crack stage) . . 280 300
Clear brittle candies (hard crack stage) 290 310
BOILED FROSTING
1 egg-white to 1 cup sugar (soft to medium ball stage) 238 242
2 egg-whites to 1 cup sugar (stiff ball stage) 244 248
3 egg-whites to 1 cup sugar (hard ball stage) 254 260
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 13
MEASUREMENTS
LEARN TO MEASURE ACCURATELY All the measurements in
this book, and in most modern cook-books and magazines, are
level. It will not do to use a heaping teaspoon, tablespoon or
cup when a level one is meant. To change proportions by
wrong measuring causes poor results, for example:
Too much flour will make a cake dry and crumbly, bread
solid and heavy, sauces thick and pasty.
Too much fat will make cakes oily and may cause them to
fall; it will make grease-soaked doughnuts and greasy gravies
and sauces.
Too much sugar will make a cake with a hard crust, or a
sticky cake; it makes a soft, sticky jelly.
Too much liquid will make a cake that falls easily.
Too much soda gives a disagreeable taste and bad color to
breads and cakes.
HAVE ACCURATE EQUIPMENT FOR MEASURING, as follows:
A measuring-cup holding one-fourth quart and divided by
ridges on one side into thirds and on the other side into fourths.
A quart measure divided by ridges into fourths. Each fourth
is a cupful.
A standard tablespoon that holds one-sixteenth of a cup.
A standard teaspoon that holds one-third of a tablespoon.
A tested scale.
To MEASURE DRY MATERIAL Fill the cup, spoon or other
measure to overflowing, then pass a spatula or the straight edge
of a knife over the top, leveling the material. For an accurate
half-teaspoon or tablespoon of dry material, fill spoon as above,
then, owing to the difference in capacity of the tip and bowl
of the spoon, divide the material in half lengthwise.
To MEASURE FAT An easy and accurate way to measure
solid fat is by means of water. For instance, to measure % eup
of solid shortening, fill a standard measuring cup % full of cold
water, then drop in pieces of the shortening, pushing them
under the water until the water level reaches the one-cupful
mark. If l /z cup shortening is called for in the recipe, fill the
cup one-half full of water, and so on for any quantity desired.
14
/-
Another accurate method especially recommended for small
quantities, is to pack the shortening into a standard measur-
ing spoon and level off evenly with the straight edge of a
knife.
To MEASURE LIQUIDS Fill the measure with all it will hold.
Equivalent Measures and Weights
3 teaspoons ....
1 tablespoon
4 cups . .
. . 1 quart
4 tablespoons . .
1 A cup
2 pints . .
. . 1 quart
16 tablespoons . .
l /2 CUD .
1 cup
1 gill
4 quarts .
8 quarts
. . 1 gallon
1 peck
4 rills .
1 pint
4 pecks
1 bushel
2 cups
1 pint
1 6 ounces
1 pound
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT STARCH
Some of the foods which are used most frequently are rich
in starch; for instance:
FLOUR White, whole wheat, graham, buckwheat, rice, corn,
rye, barley.
VEGETABLES Potatoes,- sweet potatoes.
LEGUMES Dried peas, dried beans, lentils.
BREAKFAST FOODS Wheat, oat, corn-meal, rice, barley.
MISCELLANEOUS Chocolate, cocoa, macaroni, vermicelli,
spaghetti, corn-starch, tapioca, sago, chestnuts.
STARCH-RICH FOODS MUST BE COOKED THOROUGHLY if they
are to have fine flavor and be easily digested. This is because
starch occurs in foods in the form of tiny, hard, dry grains
which are not soluble in cold water and which are difficult for
the digestive juices to act upon. When starch is cooked, it is
easy to digest and much improved in flavor^ because cooking
changes the form of the starch.
WHEN STARCH is COOKED IN LIQUID, the heat causes the
starch grain to absorb liquid, swell and soften. When flour or
corn-starch or any other finely divided meal is cooked in a
liquid, it thickens the liquid.
WHEN STARCH is COOKED BY DRY HEAT, that is, with very
'USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 15
little moisture, the heat, unless it is great enough to burn the
starch, breaks down the starch grain and changes the starch to
a substance called dextrin. Dextrin does not thicken liquid,
but, like starch cooked in water, it has a better flavor and is
easier to digest than raw starch.
The baking of a loaf of bread illustrates both these changes.
The starch in the dough in the inside of the loaf absorbs the
water used in making the dough and swells and softens. The
water in the dough on the outside of the loaf evaporates and
the starch in the outer layers of dough is partly changed to
dextrin. As a result, the crust has mpre flavor and is sweeter
than the crumb, and has a different texture.
In baking a potato, the water for cooking the starch is sup-
plied by the potato itself.
Points to be Observed in Cooking Starch-rich Foods
1. Use enough water to soften all the starch present. This
is especially important in cooking breakfast foods.
2. Cook them for a long enough time to swell and soften the
starch. A temperature as high as the boiling-point of water,
212 F., is best for this cooking.
3. When flour or finely ground meal is to be mixed with a
hot liquid, separate the particles before they reach the hot liquid,
or gummy lumps with raw centers will be formed. This separa-
tion of the particles of flour or meal can be accomplished by
mixing the flour or meal with enough cold liquid to make a
mixture as thin as cream, or by combining them with sugar
or with fat before mixing them with the hot liquid. Lumpy
gravies, sauces, mushes and puddings are caused by a failure
to observe these precautions.
4. A double boiler is the best utensil to use in cooking cereals,
mushes and starchy sauces because it does away with the danger
of sticking and burning. The water in the lower part of the
boiler should be boiling.
Thickening Power of Flour or Corn-starch
This is one of the most important things for a good cook to
know. If the cook can tell how much flour or corn-starch to
use to make sauces or pastes of any desired thickness, and knows
how to mix and cook these sauces and pastes to make them
16
smooth, velvety and fine in flavor, he or she has learned one of
the hardest cooking lessons and is in possession of information
that will help in making a great variety of dishes.
WITH EACH CUP OF LIQUID:
l /z tablespoon flour or (
l /z teaspoon corn-starch (
1 tablespoon flour or
1 teaspoon corn-starch )
2 tablespoons flour or
2 teaspoons corn-starch
3 tablespoons flour or
1 tablespoon corn-starch
4 tablespoons flour or
4 teaspoons corn-starch
Makes a very thin sauce, which may
be used in making thin cream soups.
Makes a thin sauce, which may be
used in making cream soups of aver-
age* thickness.
Makes a medium sauce, which may be
used for creamed meats or vegetables,
scalloped dishes, gravies or other
sauces where a medium thickness is
desired. It has about the thickness
of heavy cream.
Makes a thick sauce, which may be
used for creamed meats or vegetables,
scalloped dishes, gravies or sauces
where a thick sauce is desired. A
sauce containing this amount of flour
has considerable body and spreads
rather than runs.
Makes a paste wnen coia. ims
sauce may be used in making mixtures
ai--f-oc o/vn-flrloo r>lir/"* rvi*ltno^C
paste when cold. This
sauce may be used in making mixtures
for croquettes, souffles, blanc manges
and similar puddings.
WHEN THE LIQUID USED is MILK, use a little more milk or a
little less starch than for a water sauce, because milk already
contains about 12 per cent, solids.
WHEN THE LIQUID USED is ACID, as vinegar, a fruit- juice or
tomatoes, the hot acid acts on the starch and gradually changes
it, just as dry heat does, to dextrin. Dextrin has not the
thickening power of starch. Therefore, when an acid liquid
is to be thickened, more of the thickening agent may be needed,
and the time for cooking may be shortened. No statement can
be made as to exact differences because acids differ greatly in
strength.
WHEN THE FLOUR is BROWNED, the dry heat changes part
of the starch to dextrin and the flour may lose a considerable
part of its thickening power. Either more browned flour must
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 17
be used than uncooked flour or browned flour may be used
for color and uncooked flour for thickening.
CORN-STARCH REQUIRES LONGER COOKING THAN FLOUR,
and a quickly cooked corn-starch mixture always has a raw
taste.
IF A SAUCE is Too THICK, it can be thinned without trouble
by adding more liquid.
IF A SAUCE is Too THIN, it must be thickened by adding
more of the thickening agent and by recooking it. A starchy
sauce or a cream soup is always thinner when hot than when
cold. Even the amount of cooling which occurs in transferring
a starchy sauce, gravy or soup from the cooking utensil to the
serving dish perceptibly thickens it. This must be taken into
account in making creamed dishes of various kinds.
IF A SAUCE is LUMPY, because proper precautions have not
been taken in mixing and cooking the thickening agent with
the liquid, the sauce should be strained; but such a sauce never
has the creamy, smooth texture of a well-made one.
Methods of Combining Flour or Corn-starch
with Liquids
WHEN LITTLE OR No FAT is USED Heat three -fourths of
the liquid. Stir the remainder of the liquid gradually into the
thickening agent. If sugar is used it may be mixed with the
thickening agent before the liquid is stirred in or added to the
sauce after the thickening is completed. Stir into the thicken-
ing agent at first only enough of the cold liquid to make a
thick batter. Beat this batter until smooth and free from
lumps, then add the rest of the cold liquid. The mixture should
be about as thick as medium cream. Beat this gradually into
the hot liquid and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture
is thickened. If fat is used, it may be added at this time. After
thickening, the sauce may bs cooked in a covered double boiler
with occasional stirring.
AMOUNT OF FAT EQUALS OR EXCEEDS AMOUNT OF
THICKENING AGENT Melt the fat, add the flour or corn-starch
and cook, stirring constantly, until thoroughly blended. This
is called a roux. Stir in the liquid, a little at first, then imme-
diately enough to thin the roux perceptibly and finally the re-
mainder. Cook, stirring constantly, until thick. Complete
cooking in a double boiler, stirring occasionally.
Or
Heat the liquid; cream together the fat and thickening agent;
add this modification of roux to the hot liquid and stir con-
stantly while the fat melts and die particles of flour or corn-
starch are being spread through the liquid and cooked. Com-
plete cooking in a double boiler, stirring occasionally.
Dishes That Have a Sauce Foundation
A variety of dishes can be made by a person who is familiar
with the thickening power of flour and corn-starch and with
methods of combining them into sauces. There are two founda-
tion sauces:
A WHITE SAUCE is one made from milk or white stock or
part of each, thickened with plain flour or corn-starch.
A BROWN SAUCE is one made from milk or water or brown
stock and thickened with browned flour or part browned and
part plain flour or corn-starch.
The following typical dishes have a sauce foundation:
CHEESE SAUCE To each cup white sauce of desired consist-
ency, add }4 CU P shaved, grated or crumbled cheese and stir
until cheese is melted.
CREAM SOUPS, PUREES AND BISQUES To each cup of very
thin or thin white sauce, add 2 cups of vegetable, meat or fish
pulp.
CREAMED DISHES To each cup of medium or medium to
thick white sauce, add 1 to \ l /z cups vegetables, meat, fish or
hard-cooked eggs cut in pieces.
SCALLOPED DISHES To each cup of medium to thick white
sauce, add 1 to 2 cups cooked vegetables, meat, fish, hard-cooked
eggs, cooked macaroni or rice; put into a baking dish, sprinkle
with buttered crumbs and bake until brown.
CROQUETTE MIXTURES The foundation of most croquettes
is white sauce or brown sauce. When this type of croquette
is made, to each cup of very thick sauce use 1 to 2 cups of finely
divided cooked meat, fish, hard-cooked eggs or vegetables.
When the mixture is cold, it will easily shape into croquettes.
SOUFFLE MIXTURES Many souffles are made from a founda-
tion of thick or very thick white sauce to which is added some
seasoning or flavor such as cheese, vanilla, sugar, or some chopped
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 19
food and raw egg-yolk. Beaten egg-white is folded in and the
mixture is ready to pour into a baking-dish. All souffles are
baked with the containing dish standing in hot water. With
a knowledge of white sauce and egg cookery, souffles are very
simple to make. No attempt is being made to give at this point
complete directions for making souffles, but only to show how a
knowledge of one part of cooking will help in the making of
many dishes and will make the whole problem of cooking
simpler and more interesting. The most common souffles hav-
ing a white sauce foundation are:
CHEESE SOUFFLE To each cup of thick to very thick white
sauce, add % cup grated cheese, 2 egg-yolks and seasoning.
Cook until the cheese is melted. Then fold in the beaten egg-
whites, and the souffle is ready to bake.
MEAT OR FISH SOUFFLE To each cup thick to very thick
white sauce add 1 cup minced meat or vegetable, 3 egg-yolks,
and the beaten whites of 3 eggs and bake for thirty minutes at
375 F.
CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE To each cup thick white sauce, add
2 ounces grated chocolate, J/j cup sugar, and 3 egg-yolks; cook
until the chocolate is melted. Fold in the beaten whites of 3
eggs and bake for thirty minutes at 375 F.
VANILLA SOUFFLE To each cup very thick white sauce,
add % cup sugar, l / 2 teaspoon vanilla, 2 to 3 egg-yolks. Fold
in beaten whites of 2 to 3 eggs and bake for thirty minutes at
375 F.
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT SUGAR
Sugars are useful in cooking (1) because of their flavor, or
the effect they have in modifying or intensifying other flavors;
(2) because of their texture, or the changes they make in the
texture of other foods; (3) because they help in preserving
other foods, especially fruits.
Use of Sugar in Flavoring Foods
SUGARS NOT EQUALLY SWEET Maple sugar, brown sugar
and molasses, weight for weight with white sugar, are a little
less sweet than white sugar. Corn sirup or glucose, weight for
weight with white sugar, is only about three-fifths as sweet as
white sugar and may be used to reduce the sweetness of white
sugar. Many persons prefer this modified sweetness.
20
s*
FOODS TASTE SWEETER HOT THAN COLD This accounts
for differences in the amounts of sugar used in making frozen
desserts and other desserts.
SOME SUGARS CONTAIN SPECIAL FLAVORS, for example:
maple sugar, brown sugar, molasses, honey.
SUGAR BRINGS OUT OR MODIFIES NATURAL FLAVORS It
makes bitter chocolate and fruit acids more mellow and agree-
able in flavor. It brings out flavor in bland foods like cereals*
breads, milk and some mild-flavored vegetables.
in Which Sugar Affects Texture of Foods
IN CAKES$ used in right proportions, sugar helps to make
them tender and light. Too much sugar makes cake tough
and heavy.
IN BREADS, used in right proportions^ sugar helps to make
them light. Too much sugar makes bread coarse in texture.
WITH FRUIT JUICES, used in right proportions, makes fruit-
juice jelly. Too much sugar makes jelly "wine off" and makes
it soft and sticky in texture. Too little sugar necessitates over-
cooking, impairs flavor and gives a tough texture.
IN BEATEN EGG WHITE, sugar helps the egg to hold air and
remain stiff. Too much sugar makes the egg white flatten out
and settle.
Approximate Amounts of Sugar for Various
Common Dishes
ICE CREAMS 2 to 4 tablespoons to 1 cup mixture.
CUSTARDS (not frozen) 1 to 2 tablespoons to 1 cup milk.
CAKES One-half as much sugar as flour. In chocolate cakes, three-
quarters as much sugar as flour.
MERINGUES 1 to 5 tablespoons to 1 egg white.
FROSTINGS 1 to 3 cups to 1 egg white.
BREADS 1 tablespoon or less to 1 cup flour, if any is used.
MUFFINS 2 tablespoons or less to 1 cup flour, if any is used.
CARAMEL
1 cup granulated sugar 1 cup boiling water
Put the sugar into a pan and melt slowly over direct heat.
Cook until dark brown, being careful not to scorch. Add the
hot water and cook slowly until a thick sirup is formed. (Be
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 21
sure that the water is hot. Cold water will make the hot sugar
spatter.) This will keep indefinitely in a covered glass fruit
jar and is a popular flavoring for desserts, soups, meat sauces
and confectionery.
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FATS
The cooking and table fats available for use in the modern
household range from liquid oils to hard fats. The source may
be vegetable, meat, milk or a combination of these.
Cooking and Table Fats Classified as to Sources
Oils Solid Fats
(Vegetable Product) (Milk Product)
Olive oil Butter
Cotton seed oil (Animal Product)
Corn oil L arc }
Other salad combinations Drippings as from bacon, suet,
(Milk Product) chicken > beef > etc '
Cream (Vegetable Product)
Vegetable shortening compounds
(Animal Meat and Vegetable Product)
Oleo margarine
Nut margarine
Cooking and Table Fats Classified as to Use
Fats are often classified as to their use: (1) for table use (2)
for shortening, and (3) for frying. Many of them belong
to two or all of these groups, while others are limited to one.
OILS Oils are both salad and cooking fats. As salad oils
they are chosen for their flavor and smoothness in salad dress-
ings. Those made of cotton seed, corn and peanut oil alone
or in combination with olive oils are less expensive than pure
olive oil. From the labels, the purchaser will know just which
type she is buying.
Oils for shortening are becoming increasingly popular because
of their convenience. They are easily measured; they do not
need to be creamed or melted.
For frying, particularly deep fat frying, cotton seed and corn
oils are practical and inexpensive. They do not smoke and burn
22
rs^->_/-
easily and, properly cared for, they can be used over and over
again.
SOLID SHORTENINGS AND COOKING FATS Lard and meat
drippings for shortening and cooking date from the time when
all fats were prepared in the home.
Lard is solid without being hard to handle in doughs, and has
an established reputation for pastry.
Fat from chickens and other poultry is highly prized for cake
making.
Bacon, ham and sausage fats are too highly seasoned for any
but limited use but are excellent for sauteing any food where
their seasoning is desirable.
Drippings are not possible for deep fat frying, because they
burn so easily; unless they are clarified and combined, when they
become a good mixed fat. They may be used for saut&ng or in
seasoning.
In the solid vegetable compounds, vegetable oils cottonseed,
corn, and sometimes peanut are solidified by a special process.
This gives certain characteristics of both the original oil and.
the solid fat, i.e.: they do not smoke or burn except at a high,
temperature. This makes them desirable for deep fat frying.
They do not easily melt which makes pastry making easy in ordi-
nary temperatures.
BUTTER Probably butter will never lose its place as the
favorite for eating. Its texture and flavor are particularly
satisfactory* For certain types of cooking also, it is desirable,
notably in sauces, and in some baking where its flavor becomes
a part of the flavor of the dish.
MARGARINES The nut and oleo margarines are less expen-
sive than butter but are nicely flavored and salted for table use.
They should not be considered a substitute but rather another
product suitable for the same use as butter. In the manufact-
ure of these products, liquid fat, either of animal or vegetable
source, is churned with milk. The oil may be principally olein
from meat source, giving the name oleo margarine; or it may
be derived from peanuts, coconut or other nuts, making a true
vegetable margarine. They are purchased uncolored to dis-
tinguish them from butter, but they may be easily colored at
home for table use.
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 23
Shortening
The term shortening includes fat of any kind that is used
in pastry, doughs, and batters. Any clean, sweet fat may be
used. The best known and most commonly used are butter,
solid vegetable fats, margarine, salad and cooking oil, lard and
drippings* In general they may be used interchangeably for
"shortening" in a recipe, remembering the difference in flavor,
and that since some contain more water than others more fat
is needed to give the same shortening quality.
How to Try Out or Render Fat
Every bit of fat from scraps of meat, bacon drippings, roasts,
soups and poultry may be made into a mixture useful for gen-
eral cooking purposes. The scraps should be "tried out" to-
gether. The proportion of soft fats to hard fats will usually be
enough to make of the whole a good medium fat.
Chop the fat into fine pieces or run it through a meat-
grinder. For each pound of fat allow one-half cup of milk.
Cook in the top of a double boiler, or in a kettle set over water,
until the fat is melted. Strain through several thicknesses of
cheesecloth laid over a strainer.
Fat may be tried out in exactly the same way without the
use of the milk, but milk improves the flavor and texture of
the product. Sweet, sour or buttermilk may be used.
If the crisp cracklings left after straining are of good flavor
and color they may be substituted for other fats in various
dishes, notably in corn-meal and graham-flour mixtures, hashed
brown potatoes, corn -meal mush that is to be fried, and any
kind of baked hash.
How to Clarify Fat
If fat that has been tried out from scraps and drippings needs
to be clarified, let it harden, remove it from the container,
scrape away and discard any sediment that has settled in the
bottom of the cake and melt it by pouring boiling water over
it. Boil this mixture thoroughly, strain through several thick-
nesses of cheesecloth placed over a strainer, and set away to cool.
When the fat is cold, remove the solid cake from the liquid.
Discard the impurities in the bottom of the cake. If this
24
N>^^
process is repeated two or three times, a cake of clean fat may be
obtained.
If fat acquires, through use, a slightly burned or disagree-
able flavor, melt it and for each pound or pint add a medium-
sized potato cut in quarter-inch slices. Heat gradually. When
the fat ceases to bubble and the potatoes are well browned,
strain the fat through several thicknesses of cheesecloth placed
over a strainer, and set away to cool. When ready to use,
scrape away and discard sediment from bottom of cake. Po-
tato helps to clarify fat as well as to purify it, for the potato
is porous and gathers into its pores much of the sediment in
the used fat.
How to Care for Fats
Since the four factors that are instrumental in making fat
rancid are light, moisture, air and warmth, all fats should be
kept in a dark, dry, cool place and as far as possible away from
air.
Oils, particularly, are affected by air. If oil is bought in
quantity and used a little at a time, it should be transferred
from the large container to small ones. Each container should
be filled completely full to exclude air, and should be sealed or
stoppered. The containers should be kept in a dry, cool place,
but not so cold that the contents will congeal. The top shelf
of the refrigerator is usually satisfactory.
Deep Fat Frying
Fats for deep fat frying, should be capable of being heated
to a high temperature without smoking or burning. Smoking
impairs the flavor, the digestibility and the durability of fat.
A fat should be capable of being used over and over again, but
everytime the fat is used the smoking temperature will become
lower, because of the amount of crumbs or other foreign matter
which escapes from the food into the fat, unless the fat is always
strained carefully after frying and clarified frequently.
VEGETABLE FATS AND OILS are used increasingly for frying.
They have high smoking temperatures. They can be used over
and over again and are not likely to burn. They absorb prac-
tically no odor from the food so can be used for all sorts of
foods. They are, perhaps, the best all around fats for general
use in frying. See photographs opposite.
*M* ^
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IHEN THE THERMOMETER
LYS THE TIM! HAS COME,
)WER THE F00D CAREFULLY
ND STAND BY
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IAIN AT ONCi AND TURN
ITO AN UNCLAZED PAPER
BANANA FRIT-
TERS CAN BE
DONE IN A
SHALLOW PAN
I
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WHEN FINISHED, THE FAT
(CLARIFIED, STRAINED At
STORED TO BE USED ACA
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD
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OLIVE OIL has a comparatively low smoking temperature.
This is partly compensated for, however, by the fact that it
produces smoke slowly and the smoke is non-irritating. It has
more decided flavor than the other vegetable oils.
LARD must be used with great care to avoid overheating, and
must be well clarified after each time of using. It has a rather
low smoking temperature, smokes rapidly and produces an
irritating smoke. Like all animal fats, it absorbs strong odors
from foods.
Utensils for Frying
1. A deep iron bowl or scotch kettle. The bowl has one
advantage over the flat-bottomed kettle; the sediment from
food sinks into the curve of the bowl and does not adhere to
food.
2. A wire basket that fits loosely into the kettle. This is to
lift food into and out of the kettle. A skimmer will do this
but it is not so convenient.
3. A long-handled spoon or fork to hold the basket out of
the fat while the food is draining.
4. A pan large enough to hold the basket while it is being
emptied or filled.
5. A large pan lined with soft paper on which to drain the
food that has been fried.
6. A thermometer for testing the temperature of the fat.
Directions for Frying
1. Put enough fat into the kettle to submerge to a depth
of one or two inches the articles to be fried. Do not fill
kettle more than three-fourths full of fat. The fat in an
over-full kettle may bubble over and catch fire.
2. Heat fat gradually to the desired temperature, which will
be between 300 and 400 Fahrenheit, always, if possible, below
the smoking point of the fat.
3. Put only moderate amounts of food into the fat 1 at one
time, because (a) when the very hot fat cooks the food it
causes the moisture in the food to boil and this vigorous bub-
bling may cause the fat to bubble over the edge of the kettle,
with risk of fire; and (b) too much food may so cool the fat
as to delay the cooking and increase absorption of fat thus
making a greasy product.
26
J-
4. When the food is cooked to the desired brown color, re-
move at once, drain over the kettle for a few seconds, then
place on soft paper to finish draining.
5. After frying is completed, let fat cool until it is safe to
handle, then strain through several thicknesses of cheesecloth
placed over a strainer. Clarify it frequently, after each time
of using, if possible, as it will lengthen the lifetime of the fat.
If fat used in frying is not overheated, and if it is frequently
clarified, it may be used over and over again, even if the smok-
ing temperature is comparatively low.
If fish is well egged and crumbed before being fried, it will
not seriously flavor the fat in which it is fried and the fat is
then useful for frying foods other than fish.
Testing Fat for Frying
Fats should never be brought to the smoking point as a test
of heat. Use a thermometer or drop into the fat a one-inch
cube of bread from the soft part of the loaf. Judge the heat
of the fat by the length of time it takes the bread to brown.
1. If the fat is the right temperature for large pieces of raw
food breaded chops, etc., (350-375 F.) it will take from
1 to 1 54 minutes, for bread to brown.
2. If the fat is the right temperature for smaller pieces of
raw food or raw batters and doughs (360-390 F.) the piece
of bread will brown in 50 to 60 seconds.
3 . If the fat is the right temperature for most cooked foods
croquettes, fish balls, etc., (375 to 390 F.) the bread will
brown in 40 to 50 seconds.
HAVE THE RIGHT TEMPERATURE IN FRYING If fat is too
hot, it scorches the food, or does not cook it through, or spoils
the fat. If it is too cool, the food becomes soaked with fat. Fats
of low smoking temperature will naturally soak into food a
little more than fats of high smoking temperature, because the
food must remain longer in the fat.
Egging and Crumbing Foods for Frying
Except in the case of foods like doughnuts, fritters, potatoes
and fried breads, foods are ordinarily either egged and crumbed
or dipped in an egg batter before being fried. This is because
the egg or egg batter hardens in the hot fat, making a case
about the food which keeps it from becoming fat soaked.
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 27
For crumbing, use dried bread crumbs rolled and sifted or
soft crumbs forced through a strainer.
Break an egg into a shallow plate and beat it with a fork
only enough to mix the yolk and white and not enough to beat
air into it. Blend into the mixed egg two tablespoons water for
each egg.
Place some crumbs on a board. Roll the food to be fried in
the crumbs, covering all parts with crumbs.
Dip the crumb-covered food into the egg bath, being careful
to cover every part with egg.
Lift food from egg with broad-bladed knife and roll again
in crumbs.
Let stand a few moments to dry. The food is then ready
for frying. Foods may be egged and crumbed several hours
or even a day before being fried.
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT EGGS
Eggs Help to Bind Foods Together
EGGS BIND FATS AND LIQUIDS TOGETHER Fats and liquids
mixed together tend to separate very quickly. When egg is
added to this mixture, it is possible, under right conditions, to
secure a very intimate mixing of the fat and liquid. The best
known household illustration of this is the combination of oil,
vinegar and egg in mayonnaise dressing,- which produces mix-
ture that will keep for a long time. In the case of French dress-
ing, the oil and acid can often be held together for an hour
or longer if a small amount of egg-white is added.
EGGS HELP TO COMBINE INGREDIENTS IN BATTER AND
DOUGH Although many batter and dough mixtures, such as
cakes, muffins, pancakes,; and breads, may be and often are
made without egg, the use of egg materially improves them.
Egg brings about a very intimate mixing of fat and liquid not
only with each other but also with the other ingredients present.
This gives the product fineness of grain, particularly in mix-
tures containing fat, and increases its lightness of texture. Cake,
fancy yeast breads, such as zwieback, brioche, rusks and fancy
rolls, and quick breads, such as delicate muffins, owe a part of
their delicacy of texture to the presence of eggs in the mixture.
EGG INCREASES POWER OF BATTER OR DOUGH TO HOLD FAT
By causing a more intimate mixing of fat with other ingre-
28
^y\^-
clients, the egg in a batter and dough mixture will permit the
addition of more fat. If a cake is so rich that it has a tendency
to fall, the addition of another egg may cure the difficulty. If
it is not rich enough, yet falls when more fat is added, putting
in another egg permits the use of more fat. If richer muffins
are desired, the same rule holds good; eggs as well as fat may
need to be added if the product is to retain its lightness. In
fancy yeast breads such as zwieback, brioche, rusks and fancy
rolls, the large amount of fat present does not reduce the light-
ness of the mixture, in part at least because of the effects of the
egg present.
EGG INCREASES POWER OF BATTER OR DOUGH TO HOLD
LIQUID Egg causes the liquid to be distributed in smaller
particles throughout a batter and dough mixture. This makes
it possible for the mixture to hold more liquid, without inter-
fering with its lightness, than it could hold if the eggs were
absent. Therefore, a bread or cake dough made with egg can
be made softer than one in which egg is not used. This adds
to the delicacy of the product. The popover is the most in-
teresting illustration of a batter that is very light in spite of the
large amount of liquid present.
Eggs Help to Give Lightness and Looseness of Texture
This property is due to the presence in egg of a tenacious,
gluelike or viscous substance called albumin. Albumin has the
power of holding air beaten into it, or gases formed in the mix-
ture containing it, and of stretching as a result of this.
AIR-HOLDING POWER OF EGG REDUCED BY FAT Egg-yolk
is very rich in fat. This is the reason that egg-white is better
than the yolk for giving lightness and looseness of texture, and
accounts for the direction, familiar to every housekeeper, not
to permit any of the yolk to escape into the white when separat-
ing eggs, if the white is to be beaten stiff. In cakes in which
the air-holding quality of egg-white needs to be used to great-
est advantage, the egg-white is beaten alone and is folded lightly
into the mixture at the last minute, so that the fat in the mix-
ture may not reduce its viscosity.
AIR-HOLDING POWER OF EGG INCREASED BY SUGAR In
limited amounts sugar increases the tenacity or viscous properties
of egg. This fact is interestingly illustrated in cakes, where the
addition of sugar, within limits, increases the lightness of the
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 29
cake. When sugar is added to beaten egg-white, in limited
amounts, it increases the air-holding property of the egg, and
the meringue is lighter than the beaten egg alone. When the
sugar is added to unbeaten egg-white, in limited amounts, and
the two are beaten together, not only can the product be made
very light but a meringue made in this way holds the air for
a much longer time than when it is made by beating the egg
first.
Eggs Thicken Liquids, Making Custards
The value of eggs in custard making is due to the fact that
raw eggs are fluid and readily mix with water or milk. When
the mixture containing the egg is heated, the particles of egg
become solid and the liquid is thus thickened.
Proportion of Egg to Liquid in Custard Mixtures
1 cup liquid | Makes a nature t fat has sufficient body to bake
1 whole egg or / m sma u CU p S or f or a me dium thick soft custard.
2 egg-yolks
Makes a mixture that has sufficient body to bake in
,. .j j a large baking-dish and hold its form while in the
1 / cup , 1 ( dish ; or > when baked in sma11 CU P S to retain the
1/2 whole egg or form of the cup when tumed into another dish .
3 egg-yolks / Good foundation for ice-cream if less than one-
fourth to one-half its bulk of cream is to be used.
1 cup liquid *) Makes a mixture that has sufficient body, when
2 whole eggs or f baked . in a lar S e baking-dish, to hold the form of
1 whole eee I t ^ ie ^^ w hen turned into another dish. Good
and 2 egg-yolks \ foundation for frozen custard where no cream is
/ used. Good foundation for salad dressings.
Effects of Temperature on Eggs
The texture of eggs cooked alone or in custard mixtures is
directly affected by the temperatures at which they are cooked.
Cooked atl80to200 Fahrenheit (below the boiling-point
of water) ^ the egg-white is firm but delicate and very tender
and friable or easily broken apart. The egg-yolk is tender and
salve-like.
Cooked at 212 Fahrenheit (at the boiling-point of water),
the egg-white is firm, but somewhat tough. The egg-yolk is
mealy.
Cooked at 350 to 400 Fahrenheit (the temperature of fat
30
*\^N^-
hot enough for frying) , the egg-white is leathery where touched
by the fat, and the yolk is leathery where touched by the fat.
Why Custards Whey or Curdle
Custards usually whey or separate or curdle because they are
cooked at too high a temperature or too long a time. Milk that
is a little sour may cause curdling of a custard.
The best way to prevent wheying, separating or curdling is
to regulate the temperature and time of cooking all custards by
cooking them over or surrounded by water slightly below the
boiling-point, by removing them from the heat when they are
done, and by being sure that milk used in making them is en-
tirely sweet.
If a soft custard begins to whey, separate, or, as it is usually
called in this case, curdle, it should be removed immediately
from the heat. The pan containing it may be set into a pan
of cold water, and the custard may be beaten vigorously to
redistribute the particles of egg and milk solids.
PRECAUTIONS FOR CUSTARDS MADE WITH ACIDS If a soft
custard mixture is to be made with vinegar or acid juices, such
as lemon-juice or tomato-juice, the custard should be removed
from the heat the minute the mixture begins to thicken.
Hot acid coagulates egg and then very soon begins to digest it.
This process makes it thin instead of thick. If an acid custard
mixture has become thinned by cooking it for a minute too
long, it must be thickened by adding more egg or by thicken-
ing it with flour, following the directions for starchy sauces.
Custards made with acid require more egg than other custards
to secure the same degree of thickness.
DIRECTIONS FOR MIXING AND COOKING CUSTARDS
Scald the liquid. This saves time in making all custards.
Thoroughly mix eggs, seasoning (as salt)j and flavoring (as
sugar) by stirring but not by beating.
Gradually add hot liquid to egg mixture.
FOR FIRM CUSTARDS, pour custard mixture into baking-dish,
set baking-dish in pan of hot water and cook in slow oven
(300-350 F.) or in a steamer at 180 to 200 F. until firm,
keeping water in pan constantly below the boiling-point. The
custard is done when the blade of a knife run into the center
of the custard comes out clean.
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 31
FOR SOFT CUSTARDS, cook in top of double boiler, keeping
the water in the lower part constantly at 180 to 200 F. or just
below the boiling-point. Stir constantly until the mixture
stops frothing, coats the spoon, and has the thickness of cream.
Remove at once.
Always cook custard mixtures over hot water or sur-
rounded by hot water.
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT MILK
The value of milk in the daily meals is so great that every
effort should be made to extend its use in cooking.
WHOLE FRESH OR PASTEURIZED MILK need hardly be dis-
cussed since all homemakers are familiar with its use. VITAMIN
D MILK is a new form carrying an increased content of this
vitamin. It is desirable, however, to describe other forms of
milk which today play a prominent role in up-to-date kitchens.
EVAPORATED MILK is the most important of these. It is whole
milk concentrated to double richness by evaporating part of the
natural water content. No sugar is added. Evaporated milk has
all the nutritive value of whole milk. When irradiated it carries
an increased content of Vitamin D. It is an especially suitable
food for babies.
For cooking, where whole milk is called for, an equal amount
of water should be added to evaporated milk. In place of cream,
it is used undiluted. Because this milk is homogenized, reducing
the butterfat globules to tiniest particles, it produces excellent
results in making cream soups, sauces, and other dishes where a
fine, smooth consistency is desired.
DRY MILK made by evaporating all water leaves the milk
solids in powdered form with the food value of pasteurized milk.
CONDENSED MILK, which contains a large amount of added
sugar, is used for making some desserts.
SKIM MILK may be used in cooking, but the fact must be
remembered that the fat removed has carried with it important
vitamins which must be returned as butter and cream.
BUTTERMILK, produced when the fat is removed as butter, is
similarly deficient although valuable for its lactic acid.
SOUR MILK is often needed for the invalid, for cooking or
baking. It can be made from fresh milk by the addition of 2
tablespoons white vinegar or lemon juice to each pint of milk.
Allow to stand in a fairly warm place at room temperature for
one-half hour, then return to refrigerator. The same propor-
tions obtain for evaporated or irradiated evaporated milk after
it has been diluted one-half according to directions. In baking,
use one-half teaspoon soda for every cup of sour milk or cream.
FOR SOUR CREAM add one tablespoon white vinegar or
lemon juice to one cup cream or each cup evaporated or irradi-
ated evaporated milk as it comes from the can.
TO PASTEURIZE MILK
If there is any question about the cleanliness of fresh milk
to be used for drinking, it should be pasteurized or boiled.
Infants or small children should never be fed any milk about
which there is the slightest doubt.
FLASH PROCESS Put it into a covered container set over hot
water. Heat until the milk reaches a temperature of 160 to
165 F. Hold at this temperature for one-half to one minute.
Cool as quickly as possible and keep in a cold place.
HOLDING PROCESS Heat until milk reaches 140 to 150 F.
Hold at this temperature for about 30 minutes.
Pasteurized milk, if kept too long, is apt to putrefy instead
of becoming sour. If any pasteurized milk is left over and
there is danger of its spoiling before it can be used, it may be
mixed with a little sour milk and set in a warm place until
it all becomes sour. Sour milk may be kept for some days.
TO BOIL MILK
FLASH METHOD Put it into a shallow pan and cook quickly
over direct heat so that the milk is brought as rapidly as possible
to the boiling-point. Stir constantly to prevent scorching,
making the figure eight with the spoon, as this brings the spoon
the greatest number of times in contact with the part of the
kettle receiving the most heat.
When the milk has boiled up once, remove from the fire
and cool as rapidly as possible.
* THE MACHINE BEATS TIME
j AS WELL AS BATTER WHILE
* YOU SUPPLY THE BRAIN THAT
| MAKES THE CAKE
;''*
-. C *llf!
fwita
X
A LITTLE LEMON
DOES THE TRICK
WHEN YOU'RE WHIP-
PING MILK OR CREAM
INTO SHAPE
Irradiated Evaporated
Milk Institute
USEFUL FACTS ABOUT FOOD 33
Milk boiled by this rapid method is believed to be less affected
in nutritive value than pasteurized milk.
Boiled milk, like pasteurized milk, spoils rather than sours.
TO WHIP CREAM
To whip easily cream must be thick. This requires that it
must contain not less than 20 per cent butter fat. Best results
are obtained when it contains 25 to 40 per cent butter fat.
Fresh cream does not whip well even when it contains more
than 20 per cent butter fat. This is because lactic acid is
produced as cream ages, and the acid thickens the cream. The
addition of one-half teaspoon commercial lactic acid to each
pint of cream will do the same thing that is accomplished by
twelve to twenty-four hours standing.
Warm cream will not whip well because warmth thins cream.
As cream is chilled, the fat congeals and the cream thickens.
Cream set on the ice for two hours will whip easily, if it is rich
enough and old enough. The best temperature for whipping
cream is between 35 and 50 Fahrenheit. Cream is doubled in
bulk after whipping.
TO WHIP EVAPORATED MILK
Milk, bowl and beater should be thoroughly chilled to about
40 F. If the milk fails to whip, it is not cold enough. Scalding
the milk prior to chilling causes it to whip a little more
readily and somewhat stiffer, but scalding is not absolutely
necessary. To scald the milk, cover the unopened cans with
cold water. Bring water to a boil and continue boiling for five
minutes.
Lemon juice can be added for even greater and "permanent"
stiffness, when the lemon flavor is suitable to the food with which
the whipped milk is to be combined. When lemon juice is used,
first whip the milk until stiff. Then add two tablespoons of
lemon juice for every cup of milk. Continue whipping long
enough to blend in the lemon juice.
Evaporated milk has only about one -fifth of the amount of
fat contained in whipping cream. Instead, it has a much greater
content of whole milk solids. For that reason it is an ideal
ingredient for a dessert which completes an already rich meal.
34
ALKALINE AND ACID-FORMING FOODS
Alkaline or Base-Forming Foods
Acid-Forming Foods
Olives
Berries
Bread, white and
Carrots
Broccoli
whole wheat
Turnips and tops
Brussels Sprouts
Barley
Beans, lima, kidney,
Buttermilk
Cheese, all but cream
navy, soy
Cabbage
Corn, fresh, canned
Beets
Cauliflower
and dried
Citron
Celery, Chard
Cornmeal
Dates
Cherries
Crackers
Potatoes
Chestnuts
Cranberries
Bananas
Chicory, Endive
Eggs, whole
Rutabagas
Cream
Fish, fresh
Cantaloupe
Cheese, cream
Fish, smoked
Sweet potatoes
Cucumbers
Lentils
Beans, pods, snap
Eggplant
Meats, fresh
Oranges or juice
Grapefruit
Meats, smoked
Radishes
Kohlrabi
Oatmeal
Tomatoes
Lettuce
Oysters
Lemons or juice
Milk
Peanuts
Pears
Molasses
Poultry
Watermelon
Parsnips
Prunes, Plums
Apples
Peaches, Figs
Rice
Almonds
Peas, fresh, canned
Walnuts
Apricots
and dried
Wheat, flour and
Asparagus
Pineapple
cereals
A KITCHEN COLLECTION TO GLADDEN THE HEART OF THE MOST ARDENT GADGETEER
\u
ft H \
HOW TO BUY FOOD
PHOUGHT should be given to the expenditure of the money
* allotted to food, as a balanced diet, so necessary to health,
depends on the wise apportionment of that allowance. The fol-
lowing rules apply to the average healthy family; they may be
modified by each housewife to meet her own special needs.
Milk
Spend as much for milk as is necessary to secure for each child
three-quarters of a quart to a quart of milk a day and for every
one else in the family from one-third to one-half quart of
milk a day. If you can not afford whole milk, buy skim milk
for the children. Cheese may replace a part of the milk for
adults if they prefer it. Two ounces of cheese may be substi-
tuted for about one-third of a quart of milk.
Fruits and Vegetables
It is desirable to include fruit twice a day. Use fresh fruits
in the height of their season. When they are cheapest, preserve
them for winter use. Dried fruits, such as prunes, apricots,
peaches and raisins, can always be bought in the markets and
are probably the most inexpensive of all fruits. Oranges are
particularly wholesome and should be used as often as possible
unless replaced by tomatoes.
Women and little children will eat about two average potatoes
and 54 lb. other vegetables daily. Adolescents and men at hard
work can eat two to three times that amount.
Cereals
Buy cereals in variety. Be sure to include a generous pro-
portion of cereals made from the whole grain. These contain
elements of nutrition that are lost when the outer coat is
removed, and also furnish part of the necessary roughage in the
diet. Such cereals are especially desirable when it is difficult to
use as great a quantity of vegetables and fruits as these rules call
for.
35
Fat
For each grown person, every day, buy at least one and one-
half ounces of fat (butter, cooking fat, cream, fat from meat,
etc.). For children buy at least one-half as much, unless the
chUd is getting a quart of whole milk daily; in that case 2 he is
getting a large part of his fat allowance in the milk.
Meat and Other Protein Food
Ordinarily, do not try to serve flesh foods (meat, fish, and
poultry) more than once a day. Milk, eggs, and cheese supply
a desirable quality of protein or muscle-building foods and
may be served instead of meat. The more milk one has, the
less meat he needs. Peas, beans and cereals can not replace the
high-quality protein found in meat, eggs, milk and cheese, but
they have great value in supplementing the animal proteins. If
they are used instead of meat, some milk, eggs or cheese should
be included in the meal. The weekly allowance of meat foods
need not be higher than one and three-quarters pounds for each
person in the family, in order to furnish appetizing meals. This
means an average daily portion of not more than a quarter of a
pound.
A child under four or five years of age is well off without
any meat at all. If he has an egg every day in addition to his
three-fourths of a quart or quart of milk allowance, he will get
adequate protein food.
A child four or five years old may have a little meat-food
in addition to his milk allowance. He should have no more
than a small serving (an ounce or less) each day of lean beef^
mutton, lamb, chicken, lean fish or oysters.
Sweets
Buy only moderate amounts of sugar, molasses, honey or
sirup.
How to Select Canned and Package Goods
If the average household is to be supplied with the vegetables
and fruits needed in the abundance recommended in this book,
some provision must be made to have a supply on hand during
the months when fresh products are not available. In some
HOW TO BUY FOOD 37
households, these will be stored, canned, or otherwise preserved
at home. In others, they must be purchased fresh from the
market or bought in preserved form from the dealer.
It would be a profitable thing for every housewife to learn
sizes in canned goods and demand certain standards. She should
keep a record of good and poor grades so that she may ask for
the quality she prefers. Canned goods that are used frequently
should be purchased in case lots, as a wholesale or reduced price
can be obtained in that way.
The canneries have the sizes of cans well standardized and the
housewife will find it to her advantage to know the common
sizes. The following list gives the size of the can by numbei
together with an approximate estimate of its contents:
Standard Sizes in Cans and What They Contain
No. l /4 cans sardines, potted meats such as deviled ham,
condensed milk contain 4 to 4J/2 oz.; approximately l /2 cup.
No. l /2 cans shrimp, lobster, salmon, pimiento, condensed
milk contain 7 l /2 to 8 oz.; approximately 1 cup.
No. 1 cans (short or small) tunafish, canned soup, milk,
boned meats such as chicken contain 10 to 13 oz.; approxi-
mately ! 3 /4 CUpS.
No. 1 cans (tall or square) salmon, asparagus tips contain
1 lb.; approximately 2 cups.
No. 2 cans vegetables such as peas, corn, beans and some
fruits, such as pineapple and berries contain 1 lb. 4 oz.;
approximately 2 l /z to 3 cups.
No. 2 Yz cans fruits such as pineapple, peaches, pears, plums,
berries; also many vegetables, such as beets, asparagus stalks in
square tins, spinach contain 1 lb. 14 oz. to 1 lb. 15 oz.;
approximately 5 l / 2 cups.
No. 3 cans tomatoes, beets, sauerkraut, pumpkin and fruits
contain 2 Ibs. to 2 Ibs. 1 oz.; approximately 4 cups.
No. 10 cans mince-meat, apple sauce, marmalades, jams^
pickles, sauerkraut, baked beans, corn on cob, in fact, nearly
all canned goods for large quantity use contain 6 Ibs. 8 oz. to
7 Ibs. and over for fruits and vegetables and 7 Ifes. 8 oz. to 8
tfes. 12 oz. for marmalades and jams. Approximately 3 1 /
quarts.
While the size of can is standardized, there is a variation in
weights of cans put up by different canneries. This difference
38
S^V^i
in weight is probably due to a more solid pack or a greater
density in sirup content in the heavier cans and, this being the
case, the housewife should know not only the number but also
the weight she can expect in a can of any given size.
WHEN YOU DO YOUR
KITCHEN SEE THAT
THINGS MOVE FROM
LEFT TO RIGHT TOWARD
THE DINING-ROOM DOOR
DINING B.OOM
POOR.
.SCALE. IN FEET
FOOD VALUES AND MEAL
PLANNING
' I "ODAY the modern woman carefully plans her meals. She
realizes that meals must appeal to the appetite and to the
eye, but what is more important, they must be properly bal-
anced to build healthy bodies, to stimulate vigor and energy,
and to build up resistance against the elements and disease. The
modern woman, in preparing a food budget, knows that bulky
foods are essential, but not any more or less than the powerful,
natural chemicals which we know today as vitamins. The
modern woman has learned to distinguish between vitamins and
calories. She knows that vitamins have to do with the chemical
properties of many kinds of food, supplying the resistance-
building and life-giving properties we shall discuss shortly at
greater length. Calories, on the other hand, are units of heat
formed during digestion of many foods and varying in a re-
markable degree with the kinds of food eaten. Fresh vegetables
and fruits provide little heat when digested and hence are said
to be "low in calories," while fats, starches and sugars produce a
high degree of heat and so are called "high calorie foods." When
more of these are eaten than can be used up as energy, the
remainder is deposited as fat. That is why we gain weight by
eating foods of high caloric content and lose when their amount
is reduced.
WHAT TO BUY TO BUILD HEALTHFUL MENUS
The food dollar will be used to advantage and serve all its
necessary purposes, if it is divided into five, spent and served as
follows:
ONE-FIFTH or more for whole milk, cream, cheese and cod-liver oil for growing
children. Plan to give each child 1 quart and each adult at least 1 pint of
milk in some form, per day.
ONE-FIFTH for vegetables and fruit, with emphasis on the green leaf and yellow
fruits and vegetables. Serve at least 1 cooked vegetable, besides potatoes,
and 1 fresh vegetable each day. Serve fresh fruit twice a day, with citrus
fruit at least once.
ONE-FIFTH or less for meats, fish and eggs, serving liver in some form at least
once a week.
ONE-FIFTH for breads and cereals, especially the whole grains.
ONE-FIFTH for fats, sugar and other groceries.
39
40
WHAT FOOD MATERIALS DO FOR THE BODY
The healthy body is built and maintained by:
Protein helps make flesh and blood
Calcium for bone, teeth, glands, nerve and muscle
Phosphorus for bones, teeth, glands, muscle and nerve
Iron with Copper and Manganese to help make blood
Iodine for the functioning of the thyroid gland
Fat heat, energy and padding for nerve and muscle
Sugars and Starches; supply heat and energy as well as fat necessary for
the proper functioning of the liver and the digestion of fat
Health can not be maintained nor the body function properly
without abundant supplies of Vitamins. They are:
Vitamin A promotes growth, increases resistance to infective
diseases and prevents certain eye diseases
Vitamin B promotes growth, stimulates appetite, protects nerve
and brain tissue and function
Vitamin C promotes growth, protects jawbone and teeth and the
walls of the blood vessels
Vitamin D promotes calcification of teeth and bones, hence
protects against rickets and its deformities
Vitamin E protects the growth and function of the reproductive
glands and organs
Vitamin F promotes growth and protects skin, hair and kidneys
Vitamin G promotes growth and normal nutrition and prevents pellagra
WHERE TO FIND THESE BUILDING AND
PROTECTING FOODS
Milk, eggs, cheese, all meat, poultry and game, all fish and sea
PROTEIN
/Mi
\foc
foods, peas, beans, corn, all nuts, all grains.
CALCIUM /Cheese, almonds, milk, green vegetables and tops, dried peas,
"^beans, figs and dates, all sea food, egg yolk, olives, pecans.
TCheese, cashew nuts, almonds, dried peas, beans, lentils, Lima
PHOSPHORUS 1 beans, all salt-water fish, liver, egg yolk, chocolate, unrefined
^grains, all meats and poultry, walnuts, peanuts, pecans.
["Liver (calf, chicken, lamb), oysters, green vegetables and tops,
IRON 4 egg yolk, dried peas, beans, lentils, Lima beans, raisins, currants,
^dates, prunes, avocados, almonds, fresh meats.
COPPER /Almonds, oysters, oatmeal, dried lentils, beans and peas, buckle*
MANGANESE \berries, dates, pecans, shrimp, turnip tops, whole wheat.
/Sea foods and salt-water fish are the best sources of iodine, also
\iodized salt and cod-liver oil.
f Butter, cheese, nuts, cream, fat meats, poultry and fish, margarine,
FATS J lard, fish canned in oil, cottonseed oil, corn oil, olive oil, cod-liver
toil, avocado, egg yolk, chocolate, olives.
f Sugar, molasses, honey, dried fruits, sweet chocolate, maple sugar
\and sirup, sorghum, jams, jellies, preserves, beets.
AND f Potato, sweet potato and yams, rice, corn, tapioca, cornstarch,
STARCHES 4 arrowroot, all dried peas and beans, lentils, all grairft, all flours,
L Jerusalem artichokes, winter squashes, pumpkin, okra, all nuts.
FOOD VALUES AND MEAL PLANNING
THE VITAMIN CONTENT
of
IMPORTANT FOODS
Food
Vitamin
A
Vitamin
B
Vitamin
C
Vitamin
G
Almonds
A
BB
GG
Apples
A
B to BB
cc
GG
Apricots
AA
cc
GG
Asparagus
A
cc
Avocado
AA
BBB
c
GG
Bacon
to A
B to BB
GG
Bananas
A to AA
B to BB
cc
GG
Barley whole . .
A
BB
G
Beans, dry or canned
A
BB
G
Beans, string
AA
BB
cc
GG
Beef
A
BB
toC
GG
Beef fat
AA
Beets 0" oots)
A
B
c
G
Beet leaves
AA
BB
GGG
Brains
A
BB
Brazil nuts
A
BB
GG
Bread, white, waterf
B
Bread, white, milkf
A
B
to C
G
Bread, whole wheat, waterf
A
BBB
G
Bread whole wheat, milky
AA
BBB
to C
GG
Broccoli
AAAA
BB
c
GGG
Butter*
AAA
Buttermilk ... .
A
BB
c
GGG
Cabbage, creen. raw .
AA
BB
ccc
GG
Cabbage head, cooked
A
BB
c
GG
Cantaloupe
AA
BB
ccc
GG
Carrots
AAA
BB
cc
GG
Cauliflower
A
BB
c
GG
Celery bleached stems
to A
BB
cc
Celery green leaves
AA
BB
Chard
AA
B to BB
Cheese whole milk*
AA to AAA
G
Cheese, cottage
A
G
Cherries
AA
B
cc
Chestnuts
B
G
Chinese cabbage
AA
BB
ccc
G
A
BB
GG
Cod-liver oiltt
AAA
Collards
AAA
BB
cc
GG
Corn yellow
AA
BB
G
Corn meal
A to AA
B
Corn oil
A
Cottonseed oil
Cranberry (or juice)
A
cc
* Supplies a small amount of Vitamin D
t When irradiated, an excellent source of Vitamin D
ft An excellent source of Vitamins A and D
Food
Vitamin
A
Vitamin
B
Vitamin
C
Vitamin
G
Cream
AAA
BB
c
GGG
Cress
AAA
BB
ccc
GG
Cucumber
to A
B
cc
G
Dandelion greens
AAA
BB
c
GG
Dasheens
A
B
c
Dates
A
BB
G
Eees
AAA
B to BB
GGG
So" ;*.
Egg white
._ -
GG
Effff volk*
AAA
BB
GGG
^66 /^ ia -
A
B
c
,GG
Cggpiui.
AA
c
AAA
c
GG
A
Cto
G
Filberts
BB
GG
Fish fat*
A
B
G
Fish, lean
to A
B
G
Grapefruit (or juice, fresh or canned)
Grapes
A
A
BB
B
ccc
C to
GG
G
Grape juice
B to
toG
Ham
to A
BB
GG
Heart
A
BB
c
GGG
Hickory nuts
BB
GG
Ice cream (regular)
AA
BB
c
GGG
Kale
AAA
B
cc
GGG
Kidney
AA
BB
c
GGG
Kohlrabi
B
c
Lemon juice
A
BB
ccc
GG
Lettuce
A to AA
BB
cc
GG
Limes (or juice)
cc
Liver
AA to AAA
BB
c
GGG
Mangoes
AAA
BB
ccc
GG
Milk wholef
AAA
BB
c
GGG
Milk "scalded"
AAA
BB
c
GGG
Milk condensedf
AAA
BB
c
GGG
Milk, evaporatedf
AAA
BB
GGG
Milk, dried, whole
AAA
BB
c
GGG
Milk dried skim
A
BB
c
GGG
Milk fresh skim
A
BB
c
GGG
Molasses . .
B
Mutton
to A
BB
= ...
GG
Oatmeal
to A
BB
G
Okra
AA
BB
,.
Onions raw
to A
B
cc
G
Onions cooked
to A
B
c
G
Orange (or juice)
A
BB
ccc
GG
Orange peel
A
B
cc
Oysters
AA
BB
c
GG
Parsley
AAA
BB
ccc
Parsnips
to A
BB
Peaches, raw
A to AA
BtoBB
cc
G to GG
Supplies a small amount of Vitamin D
t When irradiated, an excellent source of Vitamin D
FOOD VALUES AND MEAL PLANNING
43
Food
Vitamin
A
Vitamin
B
Vitamin
C
Vitamin
G
Peanuts. .
A
BB
G
Peanut butter
A
BB
G
Pears
BB
c
GG
Peas, green
AA
BB
ccc
GG
Peas, dry
A
BB
GG
Pecans
A
BB
Peppers, green
AA
BB
ccc
Pimientos
AAA
ccc
Pine nuts
A
B
Pineapple, raw
A
BB
cc
G
Pineapple, canned
A
BB
cc
G
Pork
to A
BB
GG
Potatoes, white
A
BB
cc
G
Prunes
AA
BB
GG
Pumpkin
Radish
AA
to A
B
BB
c
cc
G
Raisins
B
G
Raspberries
AA
B
ccc
Rhubarb
c
Rice, white
_ =
Rice, whole grain or brown
Roc, fish
A
AA
BB
BB
G
Romaine
AA
BB
GG
Rutabaga
to A
BB
ccc
Rye, whole
A
BB
G
Salmon, canned
A
__
GG
Sauerkraut
A
B
CtoCC
Shrimp
A
Spinach
AAA
B
cc
GG
Squash, Hubbard
AAA
B
G
Squash, summer
A
B
G
Strawberries .
A
B
ccc
Swede
BB
ccc
Sweetbreads .
A
B
Sweet potatoes
AAA
BB
cc
G
Tomato, raw or canned
AA
BB
ccc
G
Turnip
to A
B
cc
G
Turnip greens
AAA
BB
ccc
GG
Veal.
to A
B
GG
Walnuts
A
BB
Water cress
AAA
BB
ccc
GG
Watermelon
A
B
ccc
G
Wheat bran
A
BB
G
Wheat embryo
AA
BBB
__
GG
Wheat, whole
A
BB
G
Yeastf
BBB
;
GGG
Yeast bouillon f
BBB
GGG
t Whco irradiated, an excellent source of Vitamin D
44
THE NUMBER OF CALORIES
in
YOUR USUAL SERVINGS
FOOD CALORIES
Almonds, 12 ; 100
Almonds, chocolate, 5 100
Apple 34
Apple, baked, 2 teaspoons sugar 200
Apple, baked, 1 teaspoon sugar 150
Apple, brown Betty, J^ cup 250
Apple pie 300-350
Apple tapioca, J^ cup 205
Asparagus, 10 large stalks, no butter 50
Asparagus, 10 large stalks, with butter 150
Asparagus, 10 large stalks, with Hollandaise sauce 240
Avocado, ^ fruit 120-300
Bacon, broiled, four small slices 100
Banana, average size 100
Beans, dried 393
Lima beans, dried 398
Beans, string, J^ to 1 cup serving 22-44
Beef, round steak, lean, 4-ounce serving 170-220
Beet greens, }/ cup serving 22
Beets, red 50
Blackberries, fresh, ^ cup 100
Blackberries, cooked, with sugar, J^ cup 200
Blueberries, fresh, ^ cup 160
Bluefish, broiled, small serving 100
Brazil nuts, 2 100
Bread, white 70
Bread, Boston brown 52
Broccoli 45
Butter, 1 teaspoon 100
Butter, ordinary serving 50-100
Cabbage, cooked 32
Cabbage, raw, shredded, % cup 13
Cantaloupe, J^j 50
Carrots 30-40
Cauliflower 25
Celery 15
Cream of celery soup, per cup 200
Chard 36
Cheese, 1-inch cube 70
Cherries, 10 large ones 50
Chestnuts, 7 average 100
Chicken, roast, small slice 100
Chocolate cake 200
Chocolate cream candy, average piece 80-100
Chocolate cream mint, 1^-inch diameter 100
Chocolate drop cookie, 2-inch diameter 60
FOOD VALUES AND MEAL PLANNING
45
FOOD CALORIES
Chocolate eclair 260-400
Chocolate fudge, 1-inch cube 80-90
Chocolate malted milk, large glass 465
Coleslaw, 3^ cup 50
Corn bread, average piece 120
Corn flakes, % cup 100
Crackers, graham 100
Crackers, soda 85
Cream, heavy, per teaspoon 60
Cream, whipped, per teaspoon 35
Cream, thin, per teaspoon 30
Cucumbers
Currants, dry, 34 cup 182
Cup custard, ^ cup 150
Dates, 3 or 4 100
Doughnut 200
Duck, small helping 120
Egg 70-75
Eggnog, 1 cup 200
Farina, cooked, % cup 100
Fig, average, dry 100
Filberts, 8 to 10 100
French dressing, 1 teaspoon 67
Grapefruit, 3^, average size 70
Grapefruit, ^, average size, with honey or sugar 140
Grapefruit juice 45
Grape juice 100
Grapes, large bunch 100
Grapes, Malaga, 20 to 25 '. 100
Griddle cake, 4 or 5 inch 100
Halibut 85-110
Ham 270-400
Hard sauce, 1 teaspoon 100
Hominy, dry 400
Honey, 1 teaspoon : 25
Kale, cooked without fat, y% cup 20
Kohlrabi, creamed, ^ cup 100
Lemon 30
Lemon meringue pie 450
Lettuce, % head 12
Lettuce, jj head, with salad dressing 100-150
Liver, % pound 145-220
Macaroni 425-500
Macaroons, each 50
Mackerel 85-100
Mayonnaise dressing, 1 teaspoon 100
Milk, per glass 110-170
Milk, irradiated evaporated, 1 cup, diluted to drink 175
Mince pie 450
Muffin , . , . , 125-150
FOOD CALORIES
Mutton 225-500
Napoleon, average size 453
Oatmeal 150-250
Olives, each 15
Onions, cooked 50-60
Orange 100
Orange juice, small glass 50
Oysters, average size 6-16
Peaches, fresh 35
Peaches, canned, 1 with 3 teaspoons juice 100
Peanuts, ^ pound 620
Peas, fresh, cooked, ^ cup 50
Peas, dry, cooked 400
Pecans, 6 nuts 100
Peppers, green, average size 20
Pineapple, canned, 1 slice, 3 teaspoons juice 100
Pineapple, fresh 50
Plums, 3 or 4 large, fresh 100
Popover 100
Pork 300-620
Pork, salt 1000
Potato, 1, average size 100
Potato chips, 8 to 10 100
Prunes, average size, 1 25
Pumpkin pie 225
Radish, average size 3
Raisin pie 450
Rice, steamed, ^ cup 70
Rice pudding, plain, }/ cup 200
Rice pudding, with egg, % cup 133
Salmon, canned 225
Shrimps, without oil, each 5
Spinach 25
Squash pie 225
Strawberries, J^ cup 65
Strawberry shortcake 480
Strawberry shortcake, with whipped cream 530
Sugar, 1 teaspoon 17
Sweet potato j 40
Tomato, fresh or canned 105
Tomato juice ^
Tuna, canned with oil 315
Tuna, canned without oil 14
Turnips 45
Turnip greens JJ
Vanilla sundae with chocolate sauce 395
Veal 15-200
Walnuts, 6 10 Y
Water cress |
Watermelon *5
Wheat breakfast food, 1 ounce 10C)
MENU MAKING
A LTHOUGH it is desirable that each meal should be well
** selected, the food for the entire day is the real measure of
good nutrition. The food -selection chart should be used to de-
termine the types of food to be selected. The art of combining
these foods into wholesome and satisfying meals is the art of
menu making.
Every meal should be planned to meet first the needs of the
youngest and weakest member of the family. Foods that are
good for children are equally good for adults but foods that
are good for adults may be very bad for children. It is easier
to suit a child's dietary to the adult than to suit an adult's
dietary to a child.
Points to Keep in Mind in Making Menus
In order to encourage good digestion and to make sure that
the family enjoys the meal as well as receives benefit from it,
all of the following factors should be considered:
THE STAYING QUALITY OF FOOD Does it leave the stomach
quickly or slowly? For healthy, active adults working out-
doors, a great deal of food that has considerable staying quality
may be highly desirable. For indoor workers and for children
this type of food may be the wrong choice.
Fats and fat-rich foods all have staying quality. Cream
sauces, cereals and similar foods have moderate staying qualities.
Liquid foods, foods containing meat-juices or fruit acids are
likely to encourage quick passage of food along the digestive
tract. This is one reason for beginning a meal with meat soup
or fruit in some form.
THE MOST SATISFACTORY CONDITIONS of digestion and elimi-
nation are encouraged by use of generous amounts of bulky,
moist foods, such as fruits, succulent vegetables, whole cereals
and water.
Too MUCH SWEET FOOD should not be included, since it may
give rise to excessive fermentation in the digestive tract.
Too MUCH MEAT AND EGGS should not be included, since
47
48
wv^*
they may give rise to excessive putrefaction in the digestive
tract.
THE TEXTURE OF FOOD plays an important part in its attrac-
tiveness. Crisp foods should be associated with soft ones.
Variations in texture, even in a single dish, always appeal: oat-
meal with cream and a sprinkle of coarse sugar; rice pudding
with raisins; ice-cream with cake; crackers with cheese; crisp
salad with soft dressing.
THE APPEARANCE OF FOOD is important to civilized man.
Beautiful color and dainty, attractive arrangement play a large
part in a successful meal.
THE FLAVOR OF FOOD plays an important part. Too often,
however, food is selected only on the basis of what tastes good.
The main background of the diet should be made up of bland,
mild-flavored foods, like milk, bread, cereals, many vegetables.
The accent should come by the use of the more highly flavored
foods such as meat, fruit, sugar, condiments and herbs of
various kinds.
Suggestions for the General Plan of a Day's Meals
Breakfast
Fruit, fresh, canned, dried, or fresh stewed.
Milk, or cocoa made with milk, for the children. Milk*
cocoa, tea, coffee or other beverage for adults. Milk on cereal
for all the family.
Cereal, preferably whole, for all the family.
Bread, toast or muffins with butter.
If a heartier meal is needed, it may be desirable to add eggs,
bacon or other fat meat, and potatoes, adapting the method of
cooking to the children.
Doughnuts, cookies, jam, jelly, marmalade, and pancakes
with sirup should be considered desserts, even at breakfast time^
to be eaten only after more wholesome foods have been taken.
Lunch or Supper
An egg, cheese or milk dish.
Succulent vegetable or salad.
Bread and butter, toast, muffins, or plain sandwiches.
Milk for children. Any preferred beverage for adults.
MENU MAKING 49
Sweets in moderation. Only light desserts such as fruit,
simple pudding, and cookies should be served at supper.
The meal may be made more elaborate, if desired, but should
always partake of simplicity.
Dinner
Meat or other flesh or an egg or cheese dish. Dried beans
may be used if milk or eggs are provided in the meal.
Potatoes, unless the meal includes dried beans, macaroni or
rice.
Another vegetable. Two vegetables (not potatoes) should
be used with dried beans, macaroni or rice.
Bread and butter.
Salad may be served in addition to the meal or in the place
of dessert. Raw vegetables that may be served as salad are
particularly desirable.
Sweets in moderation.
If all the milk that a person requires has not been used, the
remaining amount may be served as a beverage.
If a more elaborate dinner is desired, the meal may begin
with soup or an appetizer, such as a fruit cocktail or grapefruit^
oysters in some form, or a canape. The problem of the formal
meal is discussed in the section that follows the simple menus
given below.
SIMPLE MENUS
Breakfasts
Strawberries with Cream Baked Pears
Corn Flakes Graham Muffins French Toast Maple Sirup
Coffee Milk Coffee Milk
Sliced Oranges
r , ' COtS A T Scrambled Eggs and Bacon
Corn-meal Mush Buttered Toast 66
Coffee _ Mi[ k Coffee Milk
Granular Wheat with Raisins Grapefruit
and Top Milk Codfish Balls
Oatmeal Gems Eggs Baking Powder Biscuits
Coffee Milk Coffee Milk
BREAKFASTS Continued
Any Fruit in Season Oatmeal with Top Milk
Ham Omelet Graham Biscuits or Bacon and Eggs
Coffee Milk Toast Marmalade
Coffee Milk
Oatmeal and Prunes
with Top Milk Hot Baked Apples
Corn Muffins Boiled Eggs Sausage Cakes Popovers
Coffee Milk Coffee Milk
Ready to Eat Cereal
Sliced Bananas with Top Milk
Poached Eggs on Toast Toast
Coffee Milk
Luncheons or Suppers
Banana and Nut Salad
Muffins Honey Milk
Tea
Spaghetti with Tomato Sauce
Waldorf Salad
Brown Bread Sandwiches
Milk Tea
Delmonico Potatoes
Corn Oysters Canned Fruit
Molasses Cookies
Cream of Potato Soup Wafers
Asparagus Sala<l
Toast Apple Jelly
Cocoa
Cream of Tomato Soup Saltines
Apple and Celery Salad Rolls
Creamed Salmon on Toast
Graham Bread and Butter
Sliced Oranges with Coconut
Cream of Potato Soup
Toasted Cheese Sandwiches
Fresh Fruit
Potato Salad
Sausages or Cold Ham
Apple Sauce Biscuits
Lima Beans in Casserole Muffins
Grapefruit and Celery Salad
Tea Milk
Cream of Tomato Soup
Croutons
Brown Bread Sandwiches
with Cheese Filling
Fruit Salad
Tea Milk
Cabbage au Gratin
Plain Sandwiches
Lettuce Salad with French
Dressing
Apricot and Rice Pudding
MENU MAKING
51
LUNCHEONS OR SUPPERS Continued
Pork and Beans
Pickle, Celery and Lettuce Salad
Brown Bread Plum Sauce
Tea Milk
Macaroni and Cheese
Stewed Tomatoes Bread
Baked Apple with Tapioca
Tea Milk
Creamed Salmon Baked Potatoes
Pickles Bread
Orange and Bermuda Onion Salad
Tea Milk
Scalloped Oysters
Toasted English Muffins
Canned or Fresh Fruit
Tea Milk
Cheese Souffle Baked Potatoes
Waldorf Salad Rolls
Cocoa
Cold Meat
Tomato and Celery Salad
Hot Gingerbread and Whipped
Cream
Bread
Tea Milk
Cheese Fondue Vegetable Salad
Bread
Cereal Pudding with Dates
Grapefruit
Tunafish Salad
French Fried Potatoes
Graham Gems
Floating Island Custard
Luncheons or Suppers Without Meat
Creamed Asparagus on Toast
Stewed Tomatoes
Cottage-Cheese Salad
Prune Whip Custard Sauce
Lettuce and Peanut Butter
Sandwiches
Banana Salad
Apple Sauce Cookies Milk
Stuffed Baked Potatoes
Cheese, Pickle and Pea Salad
Drop Biscuits
Pineapple Ginger Snaps
Scalloped Oysters Waldorf Salad
Graham Muffins
Floating Island Custard
Tea
Tomato Soup
Rice Croquettes with Cheese
Sauce
Green Peas
Baked Apple with Raisins
and Nuts
Milk
Brown-Bread and Cream-Cheese
Sandwiches
Apricots Vanilla Wafers
Tea or Milk
A VEGETABLE LUNCHEON
On one plate a small serving of
four or five vegetables, as:
Potato Turnips Squash
A Green Vegetable
Beets Carrots
Dinners
Broiled Steak Pot Roast in Tomato Sauce
Mashed Potatoes Potatoes
Asparagus Salad Buttered Peas Brown Bread
Rolls Butter Grape Conserve Fresh Vegetable Salad
Chocolate Pudding Fruit Jelly with Custard Sauce
Hamburg Steak with Tomato
Sauce
Potato Cakes
Creamed Cauliflower
Rolls Butter
Cranberry Sauce Cookies
Breaded Pork Chops Gravy
Riced Potatoes Buttered Spinach
Combination Fruit Salad
Bread Wafers
Liver and Bacon
Creamed Potatoes
Cabbage and Celery Salad
Bread
Sliced Bananas with Lemon- Juice
Veal Cutlets in Casserole
Creamed Potatoes Eggplant
Watercress Salad
Apple Pie Cheese Coffee
Stuffed Beef Heart
Glazed Sweet Potatoes
Buttered Turnips Cole Slaw
Tapioca Cream Coffee
Clear Vegetable Soup
Roast Chicken Giblet Gravy
Boiled Rice Wax Beans
Asparagus Salad
Fruit Gelatin Coffee
Swiss Steak Baked Potatoes
Creamed Onions
Caramel Rennet-Custard Pudding
Grapefruit Broiled Steak
Potatoes on the Half Shell
Spinach Hot Rolls
Chocolate Ice-cream
with Mint Sauce
Roast Mutton Brown Gravy
Creamed Turnips
Mashed Potatoes
Currant Jelly Bread
Lemon Sponge with Custard
Sauce
Coffee
Roast Beef Brown Gravy
Mustard or Horseradish Sauce
Franconia Potatoes
Fried Parsnips
Pumpkin Pie spread with Plum
Jam and Whipped Cream
Roast Pork Brown Gravy
Apple Sauce or Small Baked
Apples
Glazed Sweet Potatoes Spinach
Macedoine of Fruit with Whipped
Cream
Sponge Cakes
Meat Loaf Scalloped Potatoes
Peas Nut Bread
Lettuce Salad, Thousand Island
Dressing
Fresh or Canned Fruit
Small Cakes
MENU MAKING
53
DINNERS Continued
Pork Chops Baked with Apples
Scalloped Potatoes
String Beans Bread
Indian Pudding
Fish Chowder with Water Wafers
Grapefruit Salad
Graham Bread and Butter
Queen of Puddings
Broiled Chicken Riced Potatoes
Corn Fritters Rolls
Tomato Jelly Salad
Apple Pie with Cheese
Meat Pie with Potatoes, Carrots
and Turnips
Tomato Salad Bread
Prune Whip Custard Sauce
Broiled Halibut
Creamed Potatoes
Chili Sauce
Cole Slaw Brown Bread
Rice Custard
Tomato Soup Bread Sticks
Baked Ham
Southern Sweet Potatoes
Green Peas Rolls
Lettuce Salad French Dressing
Meringues with Fruit and
Whipped Cream
Coffee
Cream of Corn Soup
Baked Hash Spinach with Egg
Chocolate Bread Pudding
Coffee
Salmon Loaf with Creamed Peas
Mashed Potatoes
Apple and Celery Salad
Banana Cream Pie
Fruit Cocktail
Stuffed Turbans of Flounders
French Fried Potatoes
Creamed Peas Bread or Rolls
Tomato Salad
Fruit Ice Cakes Coffee
Dinners Without Meat
Cheese Souffle
Mashed Potatoes
Buttered String Beans
Radish and Cucumber Salad
Strawberry Shortcake
Cream of Vegetable Soup
Scalloped Tomatoes
Stuffed Baked Potatoes with
Cheese
Waldorf Salad Corn Muffins
Creamed Rice Pudding
with Apricots
Chilled Fruit
Stuffed Tomatoes
Parsley Potatoes
Creamed Asparagus
Pumpkin Pie Milk
Baked Rice and Cheese
Buttered Beets
Stuffed Olive and Lettuce Salad
Nut Bread Milk
Date Pudding Lemon Sauce
Boston Roast
Spinach with Eggs Rolls
Head Lettuce Salad
Bread Pudding with Cream Sauce
54
The Problem of the Formal Meal
The purpose of food is to satisfy hunger and to give pleasure.
After hunger is satisfied, more food is a hindrance to health.
After the appetite has been stimulated by a variety of foods, to
stimulate it further jades it.
At one time it was the custom to serve long and elaborate
dinners having many courses and much repetition of type foods.
Gradually the realization has grown that elaborate meals are
not justified from any point of view, social, physiological or
economic, and that even the most formal meal must follow the
rules of health.
Formal meals which conform to laws of health and good taste
may be arranged according to the following general plan:
First Course
THE APPETIZER Any one of the following types of dishes,
with proper accompaniments, serves to whet the appetite:
Canapes or tiny open sandwiches made with highly flavored
mixtures. Raw oysters or clams; oyster or clam cocktails.
Grapefruit or fruit cocktail; avocado served with lemon-juice;
cantaloup, watermelon or similar fruit. Soup, preferably a
clear stock soup.
Second Course
To SATISFY THE APPETITE For dinners, the piece de resis-
tance, or main course, may be any one of the following roasts
of meat, poultry, baked fish or game, with the proper accom-
paniments of vegetables and a starchy food such as rice or
macaroni.
For luncheons, the main course may be any one of the fol-
lowing a small steak, chops, made dishes or entrees of meat,
fish, poultry, game, eggs, or cheese, served with a succulent
vegetable, preferably a green vegetable, and rolls.
Third Course
LIGHT, REFRESHING AND CRISP The salad course may be
any simple vegetable salad with a suitable accompaniment of
MENU MAKING 55
dressing and breadstuff. Meat salads or heavy mixed or com-
plicated salads should not be served in this type of meal.
Fourth Course
THE SWEET OR Bonne Bouche This course may consist of
any frozen dessert, sponge, whip, meringue with fruit, or any
individual tart or pastry.
Fifth Course
To KEEP THE SWEET FROM BEING Too WELL REMEMBERED
This course includes a demi-tasse of coffee, with sugar, and
cream if desired. It may include fruit or crackers and a cheese
with high flavor.
If the person giving a formal dinner or lunch has not been
converted to the new idea of simplicity and desires a more
elaborate meal than the type just outlined, more courses may be
introduced. An entree may come between the appetizer and
the main course. Soup may follow fruit or raw oysters. Fish
may be served as a separate course, with meat to follow. An
entree may be introduced between the fish and meat courses.
All of these procedures are correct by custom.
Order of Courses
The courses in a meal are served in the following order:
1. Appetizer ' 6. Salad
2. Soup 7. Dessert
3. Fish 8. Crackers and Cheese with Coffee
4. Roast 9. Nuts and Raisins
5. Game 10. Fruit
For the place of the entree, see chapter, Entrees and Made-
Over Dishes.
MENUS FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS
St. Patrick's Day Luncheon
Cream of Spinach Soup
Fried Chicken Parsley Buttered Potatoes
Green Pepper and Grapefruit Salad
Lemon Ice with Mint Leaves
Small Cakes
Green Mints Coffee Hard Green Candies
56
^V^^XX^V^X>^^W^^W^VXV
Thanksgiving Dinners
No. 1
Clear Soup Bread Sticks
Salted Almonds Celery Olives
Roast Turkey Giblet Sauce Chestnut Stuffing
Mashed Potatoes Brussels Sprouts
Cranberry Jelly
Lettuce or Romaine Salad with French Dressing Cheese Wafers
Frozen Pudding or Hot Mince Pie
Bonbons Coffee
No. 2
Grapefruit Baskets
Olives
Baked Guinea Hen with Gravy Crabapple Jelly
Candied Sweet Potatoes Cauliflower au Gratin
Tomato Jelly Salad Graham Bread Sandwiches
Individual Pumpkin Pie with Whipped Cream
Candied Orange Peel
Coffee
No. 3
Grapefruit
Baked Loin of Pork with Gravy Browned Potatoes Apple Sauc
or Baked Ham with Southern Sweet Potatoes
Tomato and Celery Salad French Dressing
Thanksgiving Plum Pudding Foamy Sauce
Coffee
Christmas Dinners
No. 1
Oyster Cocktails in Green Pepper Shells
Celery Ripe Olives
Roast Goose with Potato Stuffing Apple Sauce
String Beans Potato Puff
Lettuce Salad with Riced Cheese and Bar-le-Duc
French Dressing Toasted Wafers
English Plum Pudding Bonbons
Coffee
A DASH OF ORIGINALITY IN A SET-
TING OF IMPECCABLE TASTE PRO-
DUCES SUCH BEAUTIFUL TABLES AS
THESE FOR THE BRIDAL BREAKFAST
AND THANKSGIVING DINNER (below)
- &
.-*
THE MOST EXQUISITE
CREATIONS OF THE
CLEVER HOSTESS ARE IN
PULLED AND SPUN SUGAR
FOR BRIDAL PARTIES
MENU MAKING 57
No. 2
Cream of Celery Soup Bread Sticks
Salted Peanuts Stuffed Olives
Roast Beef Yorkshire Pudding
Potato Souffle Spinach in Eggs
White Grape Salad with Guava Jelly, French Dressing
Toasted Crackers
Plum Pudding, Hard Sauce Bonbons
Coffee
Wedding Menus
No. 1
Bouillon
Chicken a la King Buttered Rolls
Olives Celery
Molded Fruit Salad
Ice-cream Bride's Cake Groom's Cake
Coffee Candies
No. 2
Creamed Sweetbreads in Ramekins
Buttered Rolls Olives
Grapefruit Salad Wafers
Ice-cream in Fancy Molds
Bride's Cake Groom's Cake
Coffee Candies
No. 3
Hot or Iced Bouillon in Cups
Creamed Lobster or Shrimps in Croustades
Hot Buttered Rolls Asparagus-tip Salad
Bride's Cake Strawberry Ice-cream Groom's Cake
Candies Cdffee
No. 4
Molded Chicken Salad with Mayonnaise
Olives Radishes
Buttered Rolls
Frozen Strawberries with Whipped Cream
Bride's Cake Groom's Cake
Nuts Coffee Mints
Afternoon Tea
Assorted Sandwiches Small Cakes
Tea passed with Sugar, Cream and Sliced Lemon
Bonbons Nuts
Japanese Tea
Sweet Wafers Toasted Sponge Cake
Tea with Sliced Lemon
Nougat Candy Salted Nuts
Afternoon or Evening Refreshments
No. 1
Fruit Salad with Mayonnaise, Boiled Dressing or Whipped Cream
Small Sandwiches
Coffee or Chocolate
Candies Small Cakes Nuts
No. 2
Chicken Salad
Olives Rye and White Bread Sandwiches
Ice-cream or Fruit Ice
Maple Cake Coffee
No. 3
Chicken Salad Sandwiches
Olives
Ice-cream Petits Fours
Fruit Punch Coffee
Chafing Dish Suppers
No. 1
Fruit Cocktails
Creamed Crab Flakes Bread and Butter Sandwiches
Coffee
No. 2
Welsh Rarebit Toasted Crackers
Water Cress Salad with French Dressing
Olives Coffee
MENU MAKING 59
Children's Party
Fruit Cocktails
Chicken Sandwiches Jam Sandwiches
Vanilla Ice-cream Small Cakes
Birthday Cake with Name, Date and Candles
Orangeade Candy
School Reception
Fruit Ice or Ice-cream Small Cakes Candies
Punch Nuts
For Hikers
Camp Hamburgs to Broil
Whole Tomatoes Potatoes to Bake
Olives Carrot Sticks
Cup Cakes Cans of Fruit Juices
Bridge Supper
Jellied Meat Loaf
Vegetable Platter with Sour Cream Dressing
Toast Melba Clover Leaf Rolls Saltines
Marron Mousse Coffee
Crystallized Fruit Salted Nuts
Men's Card Party
Platter Cold Meats and Strong Cheese
Potato Salad Spaghetti Casserole
Rye Rolls Poppyseed Rolls Salt Rolls
Olives Dill Pickles Gherkins Radishes
Rum Cake of Beef w { t h ou t Dessert
Coffee
Cocktail Party
Assorted Cocktails and Dry Wines
Salted Almonds Olives Potato Chips
Assorted Canapes
THE SCHOOL LUNCH
AS much care is needed in selecting and preparing the food
for the child's lunch at school as for the other meals
served to the child. If the lunch is inadequate or lacking in
food essentials throughout the school year, the child's whole
nutrition will be seriously affected, and his work at school will
suffer. The school lunch is one of three meals, not just a
"snack," and should possess the following characteristics:
1. It should be abundant in amount for a hungry, healthy
child. A little too much is better than too little.
2. It should be chosen with regard to the nutritive needs of
the child and in relation to the whole day's food.
3. It should be clean, appetizing, wholesome and attractive.
FOOD SELECTION CHART FOR CHILDREN
Select from the following chart and make the school lunch
bear its full share of responsibility for carrying the foods the
child needs.
MILK Y 4 to 1 quart daily.
VEGETABLES Two servings daily (in addition to potatoes).
FRUIT Two servings daily (fresh, canned or dried), one of fresh
fruit or fresh or canned tomatoes if possible.
CEREALS Whole cereal bread, usually. Whole cereal breakfast food,
usually.
WATER 1 1 /2 quarts liquid daily (may be included in other foods) .
How to Use the Selected Foods
Foods selected from the above groups may be included in
the school lunch in the following forms:
SANDWICHES Made as often as possible from whole cereal
breadsv as graham, whole wheat, oatmeal. Made to include
some substantial food which will increase the value of the meal.
Supplied in sufficient number to satisfy hunger. Made care-
fully and well.
SUCCULENT FOODS Whole orange, whole tomato* whole
apples, apple sauce 2 peaches (whole or sliced )| celery, stewed
60
THE SCHOOL LUNCH 61
fruit, prunes, baked apple, sliced fruit, dates, berries. Fruits
and vegetables are especially important in the dietary of the
growing child and pains must be taken always to include ade-
quate amounts of them. They are not always easy to include
in the school lunch, yet if the child is to be well nourished,
some way must be devised to get them in.
MILK ALWAYS This should never be omitted. It may be
carried in a special container provided for the purpose or it
may be included in the hot dish.
ONE HOT DISH IF POSSIBLE The value of hot food in the
lunch is now so generally recognized that many country and
town schools have made provision for serving at least one hot
dish at the noon hour. If not available at school, hot food may
be carried in the lunch box. A vacuum container will solve
the problem satisfactorily.
MENU SUGGESTIONS
(Milk appears in some form in each lunch.)
1. 4.
Cream of Spinach Soup (in Boston Brown Bread Sandwiches
vacuum container) with Cottage Cheese Filling
u . . , x ? ra( n i Cocoa, (in vacuum container)
Raisin and Nut Bread and Butter A , c
Sandwiches r , Apple Sauce
Apple Sauce Graham or Oatmeal Crackers
2. *
Cream of Tomato Soup (in Cream of Potato Soup with Pars-
vacuum container) ley (in vacuum container)
Ground Meat Sandwiches Peanut Butter Sandwiches
Sliced Fruit Milk Chocolate Stewed Prunes Plain Cake
3 ' 6.
Cream Cheese Sandwiches Celery ,. ,
Tomatoes and Rice (in vacuum Scramb] ed Egg Sandwiches
container) Lettuce Sandwiches
Custard with Jelly and Graham Milk (in container. See next page)
Crackers Orange Molasses Cookie
62
Preparation of Food
SANDWICHES Since sandwiches form a main part of the
school lunch, their preparation is most important.
Wholesome breads should be used for sandwiches. Graham,
whole wheat, oatmeal, brown, raisin, and nut bread are ex-
cellent. Cold bran or whole wheat muffins or filled rolls are
often tempting.
Fillings for the sandwiches for the school lunch require some
special preparation. The filling should be abundant in amount
and should play an important part in the sandwich.
Cheese, meat, eggs, nuts, dried fruits or vegetables should be
put through the food-chopper. Cream cheese, peanut butter
and other compact substances should be thinned with cream.
Ground meats, eggs, and vegetables should be moistened with
a small amount of salad dressing or cream and vinegar. Suc-
culent vegetables should be provided, if possible. Finely
chopped celery, lettuce, water cress or sliced tomato may be
used alone or with cottage cheese. Finely cut pineapple or
orange may be used in sandwiches.
Jellies, jams and conserves make sweet sandwiches or a tiny
jar of the fruited sweet may be tucked into the lunch box.
Dried figs, dates, raisins, thoroughly washed and steamed in a
small sieve or strainer over boiling water for thirty minutes and
then ground and moistened with a small amount of fruit- juice
or salad dressing, make excellent sandwiches.
Pickles, chow-chow and relishes should take a subordinate
place in the school lunch box.
The chapter on Sandwiches (See Index) , gives full directions
and recipes for a variety of sandwiches.
HOT DISHES Special vacuum containers make it possible to
send hot cocoa or hot soup with the lunch, also a creamed
vegetable, a hot pudding or other hot food. These containers
should never be filled the night before the lunch is prepared.
If foods prepared for dinner are to be used for the school
lunch, these foods should be kept in a cool place, uncovered,
over night and reheated in the morning.
MILK If there is any possibility that the milk will not keep
sweet for three hours, it may be put while cold into the vacuum
container. Good milk properly kept should be in good con-
dition if carried in a milk bottle or small glass fruit- jar.
THE SCHOOL LUNCH 63
LIQUID AND SEMI-SOLID FOODS Stewed prunes and canned
fruits may be carried in any small screw-top container. A cold
rice pudding or other pudding, custards or similar desserts may
also be carried in this manner.
Packing the Lunch
All foods not in containers should be wrapped separately in
waxed paper before being placed in the box. The neatly
wrapped articles should be placed, so far as is possible, in the
order in which the food will be eaten, so that those found first
may be eaten first without disturbing the remainder. The
heaviest foods, however, should be placed at the bottom.
Articles should be packed compactly in order to prevent the
food from shaking about. Empty space may be filled neatly
with paper. When space seems lacking, the difficulty may be
overcome by more careful packing, by resorting to such ex-
pedients as cutting fruits or cookies in half^ or by packing sand-
wiches the other way of the box.
The Lunch Box
Select a box that can be kept clean. Lunch boxes should
be washed, scalded and aired daily. Those made of light-
weight metal are best. Many attractive boxes are now made
with a vacuum bottle which fits the box. These are highly
desirable. A lunch box should not be air-tight, as a circulation
of air prevents the mingling of odors. All food should be pro-
tected from dirt by wrapping.
ACCESSORIES A small vacuum container of cup-like shape
for hot foods, a screw-top container for liquid or semi-solid
food, plenty of waxed paper, and paper napkins are essential
lunch box accessories.
WITHOUT THE HOT DISH In many places the school, the
Parent-Teacher Association or some woman's club provides milk
and/or prepares one hot dish at school to be sold to children
for a few cents. In this case the lunch box need contain only
the sandwiches, vegetables and fruit. The greatest care should
be exercised that vitamins and minerals are not sacrificed to
bulk. Carrot sticks, parsley, whole tomatoes, radishes, cabbage
leaves, oranges or grapefruit will take care of this.
TABLE SETTING AND
SERVICE
"""THE social life of a household, whether the household is a
* simple one or an elaborate one, centers about its dining-
table and whether that dining-table is simply or elaborately
dressed, it should, by its harmony and unity of setting, indicate
that it is arranged according to a definite artistic standard.
Every accessory that builds the table-picture the silver, china,
glass, and linen furthers the art of gracious living in the house-
hold.
CHINA
Perhaps in greater degree than any other domestic appoint-
ments, does china present an opportunity for indulgence of per-
sonal whim and the exercise of good taste on the part of the hos-
tess. Today there are patterns for every occasion. Breakfast
china is gay, sprightly; color runs rampant upon it; often whole
gardens shine on its face. But it would not be used for a
dinner, which demands fine china of exquisitely fine design.
Luncheon is still another thing. Its china may vary as the
season or as the whim of the hostess.
Modern day impatience with formula and rite is nowhere
more eloquently expressed than in the growing custom of using
different patterns for different courses, all related by the thread
of harmony. The hostess of today considers sameness identical
with boredom. If she uses a cobalt and gold service plate, she
may elect to use a simple gold-banded entree plate. The fish
plate perhaps may have yellow bands to match the flowers in
the center. The roast plate may present a pattern border,
touched with gold, and yellow, and blue. Her dessert plate will
be utterly different from any of the foregoing: it may strike
an entirely new note; but it will not be discordant or jarring.
Obviously, all dishes used in one course should match.
Plates of Various Sizes and How They Are Used
In the following list the measurements, in inches, are from
extreme rim to rim.
64
TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE 65
PLACE PLATE (also called cover plate, service plate, lay plate) .
10 to 11 inches.
DINNER PLATE (roast plate). 10 inches, but seen as large
as 1 1 /2 inches. The size of the dinner plate is fairly large, due
to the current practice of placing attendant vegetables on the
plate with the meat. The day of side dishes, each bearing a
particular variety of vegetables, has definitely passed.
ENTREE PLATE. 8 1 / 2 to9 l / 2 inches. A most convenient size,
for, in addition to its use in serving entrees, it is often employed
as a salad plate, or a fish plate: even a dessert plate when the
finger bowl is borne in with the dessert silver on the plate, the
finger bowl being removed later.
DESSERT PLATE. 7 l / 2 to 8 inches. Used for miscellaneous
desserts, and salads. It becomes the cake plate at tea.
BREAD AND BUTTER PLATE. 6 to 6 l /z inches. Universally
used now: the butter chip, for individual butter service is
extinct.
SOUP PLATE. 8 to 8 l /z inches at rim, for the usual type o
soup plate with wide, flat rim. There is also a bowl soup plate^
or "coup" soup, which has no rim at all. Soup plates are not
as commonly used as at one time, due to the spreading favor
accorded the cream soup cup and the bouillon cup for luncheons
and informal meals.
Cups and Bowls
CREAM SOUP CUP. This is a low, broad cup, handled on
both sides. Its width is from 4 l /z to 5 inches, and its depth
about two. It is used for the serving of purees, bisques, cream
soups, and is extremely popular for luncheons.
BOUILLON CUP. A tea cup with two handles. Clear soups,
consommes, bouillons are served in it.
CHILLED COCKTAIL BOWL. This is distinctly an innovation
in china service. It is a low, wide bowl, fitted with a separate
small container. The space between the bowl proper and the
inner cup is filled with crushed ice. Used for grapefruit,
shrimp cocktail, and many other foods best served chilled.
GLASS
Of late years, an awakening appreciation of the charm of
glass has taken place. Perhaps the appeal of glorious color,
66
\s*s
so striking in this substance, accounts for it. Blue in varying
tones was some years ago in wide favor; then amethyst dis-
placed it. Rapidly came amber, and green, which maintain a
deserved respect, because of their adaptability. Rose, canary,
sapphire, in quick succession no color today is unrepresented.
Glass is often selected to "go with" certain tones of china.
The hostess with a sense of fitness has a glass service for each
of her dinner services. For her severely formal tables she uses
glittering crystal, etched or cut, engraved or gold decorated.
But there is ample opportunity for her to indulge her love
for color to the full, to arrange tables with an eye to the dining-
room effects^ or to build them according to her own color
preferences.
Kinds of Glasses
GOBLET. The goblet is the aristocrat of table glass. In its
usual form it is a flaring round bowl resting on a tall slender
stem. In certain styles, however, the "stem" becomes a mere
button. Goblets are always provided with a foot, however
small. The goblet is the dominant member of the "place glass"
group, and all glasses of a service take their shape from it, fol-
lowing its contours very closely.
OTHER PLACE GLASS. In addition to the goblet, there may
be placed at each cover at least one other glass for the cup or
other beverages. At very formal dinners two extra glasses are
often placed, but never more.
The shapes and sizes of these supplementary glasses vary as
their purposes. On the continent, for example, there is a
definite type of glass placed for certain wines. Thus a glass for
sherry is differently shaped from one for claret: it is more
sharply tapered and considerably smaller.
For the most part the glasses of this type that we see in
America are either the claret, or the tall shallow champagne
glass. The claret, whose capacity makes it a fine utility glass,
is used for almost any kind of cup. On the other hand the tall
champagne glass is often placed for its high decorative value.
Few glasses are as graceful as this shallow bowl on its slender
shaft.
SHERBET. The sherbet glass is a medium depth broad bowl
on a short stem. In it are served sherbets, ice-cream, frozen
(desserts. Much used now, however, for this purpose is the tall
TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE 67
shallow champagne glass, perhaps because of its more imposing
height and dignity.
HOLLOW STEM CHAMPAGNE. This glass is similar to the tall
champagne glass, except that the stem instead of being solid
is hollow to the very bottom. While its primary use was for
serving champagne, today we often serve in it ginger ale, and
other carbonated drinks. The hollow stem releasing a train of
sparkling bubbles is picturesque indeed.
FINGER BOWL. The finger bowl is a low broad bowl^ vari-
ously shaped. It is usually seen without a "foot," but certain
styles have such supports. Finger bowls are fitted with match-
ing under-plates, but their use is optional.
GRAPEFRUIT BOWL. This is a double bowl for chilled food
cocktails. It consists of a large bowl on a stem. Within it is
placed a smaller "cup" or "lining." The grapefruit or other
cocktail is put in the small cup, and the space between the cups
is filled with crushed ice.
TUMBLER. In its simplest form, a tumbler is simply a glass
cylinder with one end closed. But the glass designer does
wonders with it. lie mounts it on a foot: he shapes its sides in
lovely contours: often he makes it angular instead of round.
The sizes commonly used are:
Apollinaris Tumbler. This is a small, narrow tumbler used
for liquids that are served in small quantities, such as orange
juice, grape juice, mineral water. It is often used for water
when space is at a premium, as on breakfast trays, or at bridge
tables. It holds about five ounces.
Table Tumbler. Also called water tumbler. It is a low
tumbler, containing about ten ounces, and is used to serve water
informally, at simple meals.
There is also a water tumbler of about the same capacity, but
narrower and taller, sometimes called the "Ale tumbler."
Highball Tumbler. A tall tumbler, used to serve "long
drinks," or iced tea, iced coffee, iced chocolate, and so forth. It
holds about 12 ounces.
Iced Tea Tumbler. A normal iced tea tumbler, sufficiently
large to contain plenty of ice. Its capacity runs from 14 to 16
ounces.
BESIDES THE PIECES IN GENERAL USE DESCRIBED ABOVE^
there are all manner of articles blown for special uses: trays for
hors d'oeuvres; salad bowls, salt dips, saucers for berries, and
plates of various sizes.
68
SILVER
The silver on your table is a declaration of your taste.
Whether it is sterling or plate, there is, in an excellent pattern
and in the perfect form and proportion of the utensils, an
unmistakable aristocracy that gives distinction.
Modern methods of manufacturing silver plate have made
it not only durable but beautiful as well. Plated silver ranges
from the very durable triple-plated ware, (heavy weight) which
lasts a lifetime, through the double plate (medium weight)
which has good wearing qualities, to the single plate which is
light weight.
When you choose a pattern of silver, examine all the pieces?
to be sure that you approve of the shapes of all the pieces,
that the pieces are perfectly balanced, that the handles are
comfortable to hold, and that the tips of the handles of the
knives and forks fit perfectly into the center of the palm
of the hand. Find out how long the pattern has been on the
market, and, if possible, how long it is to be made, so that you
will not suddenly discover that the pattern has been "discon-
tinued."
Place silver, or flat silver as it is sometimes called, consists of
the knives, forks, and spoons necessary for general use at table.
Knives and Forks
The dinner knife and fork, although imposing members of
the silver-family, are not the most important members, for
their use is limited to the main course of dinner.
The luncheon knife and fork offer the greatest variety of
uses. They may be used "around the clock," for breakfast, for
luncheon, for supper, and for certain courses at dinner, such as
hors d'oeuvres, entree, fish, salad, for dishes served in a rame-
kin, for dishes served at informal entertaining, and for large
and small sandwiches.
Smaller than the luncheon knife and fork are the tea knife
and fork, with their increasingly-recognized number of uses.
Butter spreaders are necessary in your first list.
Later if you are not content to use the medium size knives
and forks or the tea knives and forks for special courses like
fish 2 entree, salad, and fruit, you may buy fish knives and forks.
TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE
69
entree knives and forks, and salad knives and forks (or, if you
prefer, individual salad forks,) and fruit knives, or preferably,
fruit knives and forks.
Spoons
Accompanying the medium size knife and forkj and of a
size between a teaspoon and a tablespoon, is the dessert spoon,
the spoon of a variety of uses, from eating soup and cereals,
to eating desserts such as pudding and compote of fruit.
Teaspoons have a great variety of uses, and while these are
the first kind of small spoon to be bought you will want
to add when you can, orange spoons, bouillon spoons, ice-cream
spoons, coffee spoons, five o'clock teaspoons, and iced tea spoons.
A List of Useful
2 or 3 Tablespoons
2 or 3 Dinner Forks (for serving)
Medium size Carving Set (or
steak set) 2 pieces (or large
size carving set)
Butter Knife or Butter Pick
Gravy Ladle
Sugar Tongs
Pie or Tart Server, long and flat
Cold Meat Fork
Olive Spoon (pierced) or Olive
Fork
Berry Spoon. A very convenient
serving-spoon which can be
used in serving berries, large
vegetables, casserole dishes,
and puddings
Jelly Server, for jelly, marmalade,
honey, etc.
Preserve Spoon
Long Handled Fork and Spoon,
for serving salad from a cen-
tral bowl
Pickle Fork, usually two-tined
Serving Pieces
Pierced server, usually called a
tomato-server, useful in serv-
ing sliced tomatoes, fritters,
poached eggs, sliced pineapple,
etc.
Salad Dressing Ladle, smaller
than gravy ladle. Can also be
used for serving whipped
cream
Lemon Fork
Asparagus Server
Entree Server, wide and flat
Cake fork
Sardine Server
Ice Tongs
Ice Spoon
Sugar Spoon
Sugar Sifter for powdered sugar
Ice-cream Knife or Ice-cream
Server
Cheese Server
Melon Knife
Grape Scissors
LINEN
White linen damask is the classic covering for the dinner-
table. Linen and lace are often combined and sometimes
elaborate all-lace table-cloths are used. When a lace cloth is
used, it is placed on a bare table.
In the colored damasks every woman will find an opportunity
to vary her table setting effects occasionally with a harmonious
combination of pastel shades in table-cloth and glass and china
and flower-centerpiece. But the conservative woman still uses
white damask for her formal dinners, and undoubtedly will
continue to do so.
Table-cloths
Before you buy your table-cloths, carefully measure your
table, and allow a twelve- to fifteen-inch hangover for your
dinner cloths, and an eight- to twelve-inch hangover for your
luncheon cloths.
Table-cloths should be French-hemmed, with the hem three-
eighths of an inch to one-half an inch wide, and napkins, also
French-hemmed, have hems of from one-eighth of an inch to
one-quarter of an inch wide.
A white linen damask cloth is as appropriate to the formal
or informal luncheon as to the formal or informal dinner. Gay
colored sets of damask or of less formal materials are often
used. Linen runners, with small luncheon napkins to match*
are popular, especially on long tables like refectory tables. An
especially beautiful table is sometimes left bare except for the
lace rounds under the centerpiece, plates, and glasses. Damask
napkins are used with these.
Luncheon sets are appropriate for use at breakfast, luncheon^
an informal dinner on the porch, or an informal supper.
For the tea table one may use an embroidered or hemstitched
teacloth, or a simple or elaborate lace cover^ or a combination
of linen and lace.
Napkins
Table-cloths and napkins should match. For formal dinners
an unusually large napkin is smart, but nowadays napkins, like
most other "furnishings," have shrunk, and one rarely en-
counters dinner napkins larger than twenty-eight inches and
usually not larger than twenty- four inches.
Luncheon napkins are from thirteen inches to eighteen inches
square. White hemstitched luncheon napkins are often used
with a white linen damask cloth.
TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE ft
Breakfast napkins, often colored or with a colored border to
match the cloth, are usually a bit smaller than luncheon napkins
but may be the same size.
Appropriate to the appointments of the tea table are the
small tea napkins, sometimes of fine handkerchief linen with
scalloped edges, sometimes of damask with hemstitched borders,
and sometimes of heavy linen with drawnwork borders. In
houses with Early American furnishings and with excellent
laundry technic the old-fashioned damask napkins with
fringe edges add a charmingly quaint touch. But with uncer-
tain laundering these are very apt to be unattractive looking.
Monogramming
The pattern or design of the cloth and napkins and the type,
design, and size of the monograms embroidered on them should
make a perfect unity.
For table-cloths, the size of the monogram should be from
two and one-half to five inches. For dinner napkins from one
to two inches. For luncheon and breakfast napkins and doilies,
from three-quarters of an inch to an inch and a half.
When the bride-to-be is marking her trousseau linens, it is
best form for her to use the initials of her maiden name. How-
ever, there is no hard and fast rule for this marking, and she
may if she prefers use the initials of the first and last names o
her maiden name and the initial letter of the groom's last name.
If an initial is used instead of a monogram it should be the
initial of your last name. When only one letter is used, it is
usually a block letter sometimes ornate since a single letter
in script is not very effective-looking.
How to Measure for the Placing of the Monogram
Spread the cloth on the table, place the end of your measur-
ing stick at the corner of the table, and point it in the direction
of the corner diagonally opposite. Measure from twelve to
fifteen inches, mark this off, and place your monogram there
unless it will, in this place, interfere with the design in the
damask. In that event, raise it or lower it to make it artistically
well-placed.
On a table-cloth of two yards square or less usually only
72
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one monogram is placed. Larger sizes usually have two mono-
grams diagonally opposite each other.
Dinner napkins should be marked with a smaller monogram
of the same design as that used on the table-cloth. They are
now usually embroidered in what is known as the "center of
the side." Fold the napkin into thirds, and again into thirds
in the opposite way. On the top of the center square with the
selvedge toward you, place the monogram in the approximate
center.
Tea napkins may be monogrammed with the two or three
initials used on the other napkins. In very fine linen ones, cut-
out monograms are often used.
TABLE DECORATION
Have in mind a definite plan.
Consider carefully the artistic height for your table decora-
tions: table decorations that are too high are awkward, and
those that are too low become monotonous to the eye.
No table decorations should obstruct the view of the guests
(although at large, formal dinners, when the conversation can-
not be general anyway, they may be tall).
All tall decorations should be narrow (e. g. candles).
Avoid over- decoration and inappropriate decorations. Don't
crowd your table or make it look heavy.
Discriminate between a formal party and an informal party,
and adapt your decorations accordingly.
Keep in mind the color-scheme of your room, and the colors
of the food in your menu, and harmonize the color of your
table decorations with these.
Adapt your flowers to the type and proportions of your
flower-container.
Centerpieces
Centerpieces are of infinite variety, their beauty and dis-
tinction being limited only by one's imagination and one's
budget. Flowers are still and probably always will be the
most lovely decoration for the center of the table. The fashion
of supporting a few flowers in flower-holders in low silver or
glass bowls makes possible simple and very effective arrange-
ments. Unusual effects may be obtained with central mirrors
TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE 73
and with mirrored tables, with fruits, with formal combinations
of flowers and fruits, with crystal trees and flowers, with deli-
cate figurines, and even with amusing accessories of simple or
elaborate kinds. But one must be careful that the designs
built with unusual accessories are beautiful and appropriate
and not simply bizarre.
Compote Dishes and Candles
To balance the centerpiece, decorative silver or glass or
gold! compote dishes, two or four in number, are usually
placed toward the ends of the table. These dishes, containing
bonbons or mints or nuts, may be low, medium, or high, accord-
ing to the proportion required by the other table decorations.
Four candles, or more if tLe table is very large, are used in
candlesticks of glass or silver or fine china, and sometimes of
pottery for an informal dinner on an Italian or Spanish table.
Instead of candlesticks handsome silver candelabra may be
placed on each side of the centerpiece.
The candles should be lighted before the guests enter the
dining-room, and allowed to burn until they leave the dining-
room, even if they stay so long in the dining-room that the
candles burn down to their sockets!
The height of the candles should, of course, be adapted to
the height of the candlesticks very tall candles in low stand-
ards, and shorter ones in the standard of average height. Low
candlesticks with tall slender tapers are interesting and effec-
tive, but their use is more appropriate to informal occasions.
Formal functions seem to need the dignity of tall candlesticks.
Candles for formal dinner tables usually are the color of
natural wax or, if that is not obtainable, of white. As a matter
of fact, many hostesses use candles of this color on their tables
for all their parties. Of course colored candles may be used
to carry out a decorative scheme, and are festive and appro-
priate for special occasions.
Candles are now never shaded.
Service or "Cover" Plate
A service plate (sometimes called a "place plate" or "lay
plate," and, most appropriately, a "cover plate"), which is
74
~*s**r
about one inch larger than a dinner plate, is used in formal
service. A service plate is a background plate on which other
plates are placed. Since its function is largely decorative, it
should be as handsome as your circumstances permit. Service
plates are usually of beautiful china, though sometimes they
are of gold or silver or silver plate or even glass. If they are
of china, they do not match the rest of the china in design^
since they are usually far more ornate. In advance of the
meal, the service plate is set in the center of each cover, one
inch, or sometimes two inches, from the edge of the table. No
food is served directly on the service plate. On it are placed
the plates containing the first courses of the meal, such as fruit^
oysters, and soup. It is not removed until it is exchanged for
the plate of the first hot course after the soup.
Large service plates are not used for breakfast, and it is
usually inconvenient to use them in homes where there is no
service, or in homes where the food is served at the table by the
hostess or host or both.
Place Cards
Place cards are used at formal dinners and luncheons for con-
venience in seating the guests. A place card should be simple
(plain white ones are best) of about the size of a visiting-card.
It is sometimes engraved with the hostess' monogram or crest
embossed in plain white. Sometimes at feature parties, such as
Hallowe'en or Valentine's Day, decorative place cards are used to
carry out the motif of the entertainment. The name of the
guest is written on the card, the title Mrs., M/'ss, or Mr. be-
fore the name. Place cards are usually placed above the cover
so that they do not conceal the beauty of either the place plate
or the napkin.
Salts and Peppers
Salts and peppers may be tall, gold or silver ones, or they
may be low silver or crystal ones, or a silver pepper shaker ac-
companied by a low salt cup lined with old blue glass. For
breakfast use, they may be of china or pottery, consistent with
the informality of the breakfast table or tray.
It is customary to place a set of salts and peppers between
every two covers if the party is large, or a pair at each corner
of the table, if few are dining, or at two corners of a small
TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE 75
table. Individual sets are sometimes placed. Whether salt
shakers or salt cups are used is a matter of choice, but with
salt cups small salt-spoons should be provided.
Bread and Butter Plates
These convenient little plates are used at breakfast and
luncheon, and at family and other informal dinners. Since
butter is not served at formal dinners, bread and butter plates?
are not usually placed. However, there is now a tendency to
place bread and butter plates on the table, except at the most
formal dinners, many hostesses maintaining, and quite rightly,
too, that these plates are of great convenience, in affording a
harbor for the roll or bread and for the celery, radishes, and
nuts that are passed at dinner.
Bread and butter plates are removed after the salad course,
with the salts and peppers.
The Napkin
The napkin is usually placed at the left of the forks and
parallel with them. If the napkin is folded in a square or other-
wise folded so that the corners are up, it is placed so that the
open corners are toward the plate.
Often one sees the napkin placed on the service plate, but
unless space demands this, it is not to be recommended. Service
plates are usually of such loveliness that none of their beauty
should be sacrificed.
It is no longer good form to put bread or a dinner roll in the
napkin too many embarrassing moments resulted from that
custom, for it was most natural, when one was engrossed in
conversation, to take up the napkin unthinkingly and discover
the roll perversely flying for the regions under the table.
Finger Bowls
There are three methods of placing finger bowls:
FIRST, if the finger bowl is needed after fruits at the begin-
ning of a meal, or after corn on the cob, artichokes, and other
food that demands the use of the fingers, it may be placed to
the left of the cover when the table is laid or it may be brought
7 6
*v^s^
in toward the end of the course and placed to the left of the
cover.
SECOND, if the dessert plate and finger bowl are served to-
gether, the finger bowl is placed on the dessert plate, usually
with a small fine white or cream doily between it and the plate,
and the dessert silver placed on the sides of the plate, the fork on
the left and the knife or spoon (depending on what the dessert
may be) on the right. The guest removes the silver, placing
the spoon or knife to the right, and the fork to the left, of the
cover. Then he removes the finger bowl and doily and places
them on the left of the cover, leaving the plate ready to receive
the fruit or dessert.
THJRD, if the dessert is served in individual portions, say
in a sherbet glass or some other container, which precludes the
placing of the finger bowl on the dessert plate, the finger bowl,
on a doily on a plate, is placed in front of the guest after the
last course.
If especially beautiful glass or silver finger bowls and plates
are used, many hostesses now omit the doily between, maintain-
ing that it destroys the harmony between the bowl and the
plate.
The bowls, half-filled with tepid water, may be placed on
the side table before the meal is announced.
SETTING THE TABLE
Precision and decision are demanded in table-setting: mathe-
matical precision in laying the table-covering and in placing
the silver and other table-appointments, and artistic decision in
the choice and harmonious arrangement of the table-appoint-
ments.
Spreading the Cloth
When the table-covering is the conventional table-cloth, first
place the silence-cloth, of white, thick, doublefaced material,
which usually extends five inches over each side of the table.
This is sometimes tied in place to prevent slipping.
Over this, spread the table cloth, perfectly laundered. There
should be in the table cloth only one crease, the straight central
crease, and the cloth should be most carefully adjusted so that
this fold is placed exactly in the center of the table. The op-
THE BUFFET DINNER IS AN OPPORTUNITY
TO USE YOUR CHERISHED SILVER PIECES
Sterling Silversmiths Guild of America
Ike letvice ftot dinnet
APPETIZER FIRST COURSE
THE NAPKIN IS ON THE PLATE
OR LEFT OF THE FORKS. IF THE
COCKTAIL IS FRUIT OR MELON.
REPLACE OYSTER FORK WITH A
SMALL SPOON. ALL CLASSES
REMAIN THROUGHOUT DINNER
SOUP SECOND COURSE
THE SOUP PLATE IS SET ON THE
SERVICE PLATE AFTER THE AP-
PETIZER AND ITS SILVER ARE
REMOVED. THE SERVICE PLATE
IS REMOVED WITH THE SOUP
PLATE AND ITS SILVER
FISH OR ENTREE THIRD
COURSE
THE SERVICE PLATE IS RE-
PLACED BY AN ENTREE PLATE-
WARMED IN WINTER. USE
THE OUTER KNIFE AND FORK
ROAST FOURTH COURSE
THE LARGE DINNER PLATE FOL-
LOWS THE ENTREE SERVICE
AND IS REMOVED WITH ITS
SILVER
SALAD FIFTH COURSE
BOTH SALAD PLATE AND SIL-
VER ARE SMALLER THAN FOR
THE MEAT COURSE AND THE
PLATE SHOULD BE COLD
DESSERT SIXTH COURSE
EACH PLACE SHOULD BE COM-
PLETELY CLEARED EXCEPT FOR
THE CLASSES AND THE TABLE
CRUMBED BEFORE THE DES-
SERT PLATE AND SILVER ARE
PLACED
COFFEE SEVENTH COURSE
WHEN COFFEE IS SERVED AWAY
FROM THE TABLE, THE FINGER
BOWL WITH ITS DOILY MAY
COME IN ON THE DESSERT
PLATE DOILY AND BOWL
SLIPPED OFF BY THE GUEST AS
DESSERT IS SERVED. WHEN
SERVED AT THE TABLE, THE
COFFEE CUP AND SAUCER ARE
PLACED AFTER THE DESSERT IS
SERVED
Reed & Barton
ADDED TO GOOD TASTE, BEAU-
TY IS ACHIEVED BY THE MOST
CAREFUL ORDER AND ACCU-
RACY
TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE 77
posite edges of the cloth should fall at equal distances from
the floor. The cloth should fall from twelve to fifteen inches
below the edges of the table.
Placing the Decorations
Now having placed the background for your table-picture,
focus your composition by placing the table decorations, the
centerpiece, candlesticks or candelabra, and compotes.
For a table of six covers, four candles or two candelabra are
sufficient. The candlesticks are usually placed about halfway
between the center of the table and its edge, but their position
depends on the general form and design of the decorations.
The candles are unshaded.
Compotes, filled with bonbons or mints or nuts, are usually
placed between the candlesticks and the edge of the table
their position too, depending on the general structural scheme.
Setting the Covers
Now you are ready to set the covers.
A "cover" is the place set for one person at the beginning of
a meal. It consists of a service plate (called sometimes a "place
plate," and most appropriately called, a cover plate), silver
utensils, napkin, and water glass.
In setting a cover allow, if possible, the standard space of
twenty- four inches, this space being measured from the center
of one plate to the center of the next one. Allow fifteen inches
for depth.
Place the cover plate in the exact center of the place, and
so that the pattern is up, in other words so that the pattern-
design is given its full beauty-value.
All the lines of the cover should go either across the table
or lengthwise of it. Avoid diagonal lines because they attract
the attention of the eye and take away from the harmony o
the design.
Place the knives in a straight line, on the right of the plate,
parallel to each other, and the spoons on their right. On the left
place the forks, also in a careful straight line, and lay the napkin
at the left of the forks with its edges parallel to the forks and
knives and spoons. When the cover includes a bread and butter
plate, lay the butter spreader on the edge of the plate so that
78
r**r*s
it is parallel to the edge of the table with the handle toward the
right. Salt and pepper sets should" follow this rule of placing,
as should the handles of dishes that are placed on the table, and
if a piece of silver is placed on a dish at the table (for instance,
the spoon on the plate under the fruit cocktail) it too should
be placed parallel to the pieces of silver at the sides of the
plate.
There are several other important rules for setting a cover^
and the basic idea of these rules applies to informal meals as
much as it does to formal meals.
KNIVES, since they are used in the right hand, are placed at
the right of the plate, with the cutting edge toward the plate.
SPOONS, with the bowls up, are placed at the right of the
knives.
FORKS are placed at the left of the plate, with the tines up.
This is because the fork is held in the left hand when the knife
is in the right hand. If an oyster fork is necessary, it is placed
on the right of the knives and spoons and parallel to them
or on the plate on which the oysters are served.
THE SILVER should be placed in the correct sequence so
that the person eating may use first the utensils farthest from
the plate and "work toward the plate." Not more than three
knives and three forks (not counting the butter knife or oyster
fork) are laid at one cover. If necessary, additional pieces are
laid just before the course is served. Usually the silver is laid
for the courses through the salad course, and the dessert silver
is either placed at the cover before the dessert is served, or
brought in on the dessert plate. For every item of food in the
menu the necessary piece of silver should either be placed at
the cover or brought in before the service of the course.
THE NAPKIN is placed on the left of the forks. If it is folded
in a square, the open corner is the lower corner, nearest the
plate.
THE WATER GLASS is placed above the tip of the dinner
knife. If there is a glass for another beverage, it is placed
to the right of the water glass or in a line slanting down from
the goblet to the right. If there are more than two glasses, they
are grouped artistically.
THE BREAD AND BUTTER PLATE is placed above the tips of
the forks so that it will be on a line with the water glass. The
butter spreader is placed on the bread and butter plate parallel
TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE 79
to the edge of the table, the handle toward the right and the
cutting edge down.
THE PLACE CARD is best placed above the plate.
THE EDGE OF THE SERVICE PLATE, the tips of the handles
of the silver utensils, and the lower edge of the napkin should
be placed in exact alignment, usually one inch from the edge
of the table. Some hostesses prefer that the silver be placed
two inches from the edge of the table, so that there is a mini-
mum of danger of its being brushed off the table.
SALTS AND PEPPERS are usually placed between every two
covers, or individual sets may be placed, or, if there are only a
few covers, sets may be placed at the ends of the table.
SALTED NUTS may be placed in small individual dishes above
the covers, or in silver or glass compotes.
COVERS should be placed directly opposite each other.
THE CHAIRS are placed so that the line of the table-cloth
is not broken.
TABLE SERVICE
Styles of Service
There are three styles of service:
RUSSIAN: In this style of service all the food is served from
the kitchen, by attendants. The host and hostess take no part
in the service. No food is put on the table except the decorat-
ing dishes of nuts, candy, and fruits. The food may be placed
in individual portions before the guest, or may be separated
into portions and arranged on serving-dishes for each guest to
help himself.
ENGLISH OR FAMILY TYPE: In this service all the food is
served at the table by the host, hostess, or both.
COMBINATION OR MIXED SERVICE: In this service the main
course is usually served at the table, while the soup, salad, and
dessert are served from the kitchen. Sometimes, the salad is
served from a large salad bowl, and the hostess serves the dessert
at table.
Service Suggestions
METHODS There are three methods of table service. Th
one often preferred is the left hand service, that is, the placing,
passing, and removing of all dishes at the left. Beverages are,
8o
rvs^y
of course, an exception, and these are placed at the right. In
the left hand service, the waitress uses the hand farthest from
the guest, that is, the left hand. The left hand service permits
the guest to use his right hand in helping himself. In the right
hand service the waitress places and removes all dishes from the
right, using the right hand, but she passes a dish at the left,
using her left hand. Often a combination of these two services
is used: that is, the dishes are placed and passed at the left, and
plates are removed from the right. A hostess decides which
method seems to her the easiest and most practical for her
household, and directs her service accordingly.
ORDER OF SERVICE In many houses the hostess is served first.
This is a relic of the old custom of taking it for granted that
the giver of the feast prove the absence of poison by first tast-
ing of the food or drinking of the beverage! Some hostesses too
justify this custom by maintaining that, when complicated foods
are served, the hostess indicates to her guests the methods by
which they can most conveniently serve themselves.
However, the custom of serving the honor guest first is grow-
ing, and many hostesses now insist on giving the chief guest
this additional compliment.
The former custom of serving all the ladies first and the
gentlemen afterward is no longer in vogue, for this method
consumed too much time and delayed the service. Now guests
are served in the order in which they are seated, usually begin-
ning with the honor guest or the hostess and proceeding to the
right.
THE EVER-PRESENT PLATE It is an important rule of good
service that there must be a plate before each guest until the
salad course is removed. As soon as one plate is removed, an-
other is put in its place. The first course if a pre-soup course
is either served from a large dish, in which case a plate is
placed for it on the cover plate, or is brought in on a plate which
is set on the cover plate already on the table.
When the first course is removed the soup plate is set on the
cover plate. Then, if the next course an entree, or fish, or
the main course is, as usual, to be served on a heated plate, the
service plate is removed with the soup plate as this heated plate
is put before the guest.
THE "SERVICE NAPKIN" On the palm of her left hand$
Tinder the dish that she is passing, the waitress holds a napkin
TABLE SETTING AND SERVICE 8l
folded in a square the so-called "service napkin" or "serving
napkin." She does not use a tray to bring dishes to the table
or to remove them from the table.
USING A TRAY When a waitress is passing two or three
small articles such as the cream-pitcher and sugar-bowl, or extra
pieces of silver, she uses a serving-tray, with a doily on it to
keep the articles from slipping.
FILLING GLASSES Water glasses are filled three-fourths full.
The water pitcher should be three-fourths full. When a glass
is being filled it should not be lifted from the table. If neces-
sary, the waitress uses a napkin to catch the drip. Beverages
are placed and glasses are filled at the right.
KNIVES AND SPOONS are placed at the right, and forks are
placed at the left.
BREAD, in the form of plain or pulled bread, rolls, or toast^ is
passed after the soup has been served.
IF THE FIRST COURSE of an informal dinner or luncheon is a
cold course, it may be on the table when the guests enter the
dining-room. If it is hot, it is served after the guests are seated.
BEFORE PASSING A DISH TO A GUEST the waitress should
see that adequate silver is placed on the dish usually a serv-
ing-fork on the left and a serving-spoon on the right in a
convenient position. She should, if necessary, rearrange the
silver before offering the dish to the guest.
FOOD SHOULD BE PLACED ON THE TABLE, passed, and re-
moved in the order of its importance in the course.
IF A SALAD is SERVED WITH THE MEAT COURSE, it is placed
on the more convenient side of the plate. If there is no extra
glass on the right side, it is usually more convenient to the guest
to have the salad placed on the right.
HOT FOOD SHOULD BE SERVED HOT on heated dishes.
COLD FOOD SHOULD BE SERVED COLD on cold dishes.
WHEN THE HOST AND HOSTESS DO THE SERVING AT TABLE,
the host serves the meat, and often the vegetables, and the hos-
tess serves the soup, salad, dessert, and beverage.
IN THE MAID-LESS HOUSEHOLD, the hostess will find great
convenience in the tea-wagon or any other kind of serving-
table that may stand at her right, ready to help her.
BEFORE THE DESSERT COURSE, the table should be cleat ed
and crumbed. The salts and peppers, the bread and butter
plates, and all other accessories or dishes that will not be used
82
V/N^
in the dessert course, are removed on a tray. When the table
is crumbed a small folded napkin and a plate should be used,
and the crumb-clearing is done at the left of the guest.
WHEN THE DESSERT is FINISHED, the dessert plate is ex-
changed for an after-dinner coffee cup, if the coffee is served
at table.
AT THE END OF THE COFFEE COURSE, the cups are ex-
changed for finger bowls if these were not placed with the
dessert.
THERE is INCREASING INCLINATION to serve after-dinner
coffee in the drawing room, living room or the library. The plan
has many advantages. The original reason was to give guests
more freedom and more luxury dining-room chairs are stiff
at best. But in large families, young adults and children are
eager to be excused the former for their own plans and the
latter have school work to do, besides which they do not or
should not drink coffee. The adults want to continue their dis-
cussions without interruption, while they have coffee, liqueurs
and smokes at their leisure.
Besides, in many American homes, servants come in by the
day or the hour. Serving coffee in the living room, in addition
to the comfort it gives host and guests, allows maids to finish
the cleaning-up process with more speed and care as well as
more freedom. The coffee service can be done last or even left
until morning without catastrophe. In the maidless home, the
dining-room doors can be closed, the lights turned out and both
hostess and guests forget the work that awaits the former, in
the glow of the larger, more comfortable and less formal living
room. Moreover, in many modern homes the dining room has
disappeared and its function taken over by an enlarged living
room, with or without a dining alcove or solarium but almost
always when there is a garden, by the terrace used for meals
out of doors. In homes with this arrangement there should be
an appropriate screen to set around the table used for dining,
when the guests move into the living room proper or onto the
terrace. Often when there is a dining alcove, these screens are
attached to opposing walls as permanent fixtures of the room,
and need only to be swung out to meet around the disheveled
table. For kss formal entertaining see page 724.
CARVING
SKILL in carving depends upon two things: first, a knowl-
edge of the anatomy of that which is to be carved, and
second, good tools with which to work.
EQUIPMENT FOR CARVING
FOR THE AVERAGE FAMILY, two carving knives are desirable;
one with a long, keen blade for large roasts, and a smaller,
lighter one for steaks, cutlets and poultry. One two-pronged
fork can be used with both knives.
FOR A SMALL FAMILY, where large joints are not served, the
smaller knife will be adequate.
THE CARVING KNIFE SHOULD BE SHARP when it is brought
to the table. It should never be sharpened at the table.
THE CARVER SHOULD REMAIN SEATED while carving and
should carve enough for all who are at the table before he
begins to serve anyone.
THE PLATTER SHOULD BE LARGE ENOUGH to give room not
only for the meat that is to be carved but also for the carved
portions.
A SERVING SPOON should be provided for the gravy.
TO CARVE BEEF
Beefsteak
First separate the meat from the bone by cutting along the
edge of the bone with the thin point of the knife.
Beginning with the wide or bone end of a porterhouse or
sirloin steak, and following the grain of the meat, divide each
section into portions an inch or slightly more in width, depend-
ing on the number to be served.
In porterhouse and similar steaks, the tenderloin and the
wider section are more tender and have a finer flavor and text-
ure than the narrow section. Give a serving of the finer quality
meat and one of the less choice meat to each person.
The small or flank end of a porterhouse steak is of poor
83
84
>W/"
quality, suited only for stewing or braizing, and should not
be served with the rest of the steak.
Add to each portion a bit of garnish, a spoon of dish gravy,
and if the steak is planked, a serving of vegetables.
Roast Beef
Carve all roasts across the grain of the meat. The thickness
of the slices varies with the kind of roast that is being carved,
and may be influenced by the personal preferences of the people
for whom the carving is being done. Generally the slices
should be thin, but whether thin or thick, they should be even
and attractive looking.
FILLET OR TENDERLOIN ROAST Hold the roast firmly with
the fork and cut the meat squarely across the grain in slices
slightly less than one-half inch in thickness. Begin with the
thick or forward portion. Serve one slice to each person.
LOIN, ROUND OR RUMP ROAST Cut across the grain, as
with a tenderloin roast, but carve the slices as thin as possible,
because the meat is less tender than the fillet.
STANDING RIB ROAST Place the roast cut side up on a platter
with the ribs to the left. Thrust the fork firmly into the side
below the upper bone and cut slices l /$ to % mcri thick toward
the fork, across the grain, until the bone is reached. Cut several
slices and then separate from the bone by cutting down with the
point of the knife along the bone.
CHUCK POT ROAST Place the meat with the rib side toward
the carver. Insert the fork straddling the narrow strip of
cartilage running down the center of the meat and cut off the rib
bone. Cut horizontally across grain into slices % inch thick,
beginning at the right front corner and cutting up through the
slice at the center of the roast. When one side is sliced reverse
and cut other side.
SHORT RIBS Place meat so that ribs are at the back. Thrust
fork into meat and cut down between the bones. A bone may
be served with each slice.
ROLLED ROAST A rolled roast should be held together for
carving by skewers thrust directly through the roll across the
grain of the meat. Set the roast on end and thrust the fork
firmly into the side an inch or two from the top. Then, hold-
CARVING 85
ing the knife horizontally, cut thin even slices across the entire
roast.
Remove the skewers one at a time as you reach them in
carving, and move the fork downward from time to time as
necessary.
TO CARVE LAMB, MUTTON, VEAL
AND PORK
Leg of Lamb
Let the small bone extend toward your left and have the
curved side of the meat uppermost. Thrust the fork into the
center muscle and cut thin slices downward, across the grain
of the meat, till the knife strikes the bone. To release the
slices, insert the point of the knife beneath them and cut along
the surface of the bone.
If the leg of lamb is boned, cut slices straight through, across
the grain of the meat.
Loin Roast of Lamb, Veal or Pork
The backbone should be cut through at each rib before the
meat is roasted. Let the roast lie on the platter with the bones
down and the smaller end of the roast at your left. Carve
down between the ribs and serve one rib to each person.
Crown of Lamb
Carve down between the ribs and serve one rib to each per-
son.
Saddle of Mutton
Let the roast rest on the platter with the bone down and
the end diagonally toward you. Make a cut through the
center the entire length of the backbone, separating the meat
into two similar parts. Remove the meat from the bone on
each side by running the knife point between the meat and
the bone. Carve the meat into slices slightly less than half
an inch thick, cutting across the grain.
LEG O'LAMB IS CARVED
AGAINST THE GRAIN
National Live Stock and
Meat Board
A LITTLE KNOWLEDGE OF ANATOMY
GOES A LONG WAY TOWARD PER-
FECTION IN THE CARVING OF FOWL
-Institute American Poultry Industries
fJN CARVING STIIfc
ROAST OR ANY M|AT,
000 FORM IS THE |E
|ULT OF PERFECT BAL
^NCE AND MUCH PRA|
TICE
National Live Stock and
Meat Board <; , ; .. \ ,|
'
86
TO CARVE POULTRY
Roast Turkey or Chicken
Let the bird rest on its back on the platter, with the drum-
sticks pointing toward your left. Grasp the carving-fork
firmly in the left hand, with the tines pointing toward the
bird's neck and the tips turned from the bird. Insert it into
the leg so that one tine goes diagonally through the drumstick
and the other through the second joint.
Cut all around the hip joint. Press against the side of the
bird with the flat of the knife and use the fork as a lever to
bend the leg back. This will separate the hip joint and the leg
can be lifted off without difficulty.
Without removing the fork, lay the leg down flat, with
the open end pointing, toward "the left, and insert the knife
from right to left between the tines of the fork. Press the
knife down and it should go through the joint. At first you
may have to do a little feeling around to locate the joint, but
with practice you will learn how to insert the fork so that when
the knife is placed between the tines it will fall directly over
the joint.
Next thrust the fork into the side of the bird, rather low
down, and cut the breast downward in thin even slices.
Slice the meat from the second joint and serve a slice of
white meat and a slice of dark meat to each guest.
If more portions are needed, turn the bird so that it is
lying with the carved side down. Separate the second leg in
the same way you did the first, and slice the breast.
If the wings are needed they may be cut from the bird and
divided in the same manner as the legs.
Ordinarily the tips of the wings and the drumsticks are
not served with the roasted bird but are reserved for other uses.
Roast Ducks
Follow the same method as for turkeys and chickens, but
keep in mind that a duck's joints are much farther toward the
back than those of turkeys and chickens.
WITH WILD DUCK, only the breast is served. Half a breast
is usually removed in one portion and served to one person.
CARVING 87
Broilers
Arrange the bird on the platter so that the neck is toward
you. Insert the fork in the second joint; cut the flesh around
the hip joint; bend the joint over sharply with the knife and
separate it from the body. Separate the drumstick from the
second joint or leave them together, as you prefer. Split the
breast in two. Serve half the breast and a second joint or
whole leg to each person.
TO CARVE FISH
Special carving sets are procurable for fish. If such a set is
not at hand, the best thing to use is a dinner knife, with silver
plated or stainless steel blade, and a silver fork^ preferably of
the type known as a cold meat fork.
In carving any fish try to serve as little bone as possible and
avoid breaking the flakes of the fish.
Baked or Planked Fish
If the fish has been slashed before baking, cut through these
slashes, to, but not through, the backbone. If there are no
slashes, cut the flesh crosswise at intervals of about two inches.
Slip the knife under each section and lift it from the bone.
When one side of the fish has been served^ lift up the back-
bone and divide the lower half.
Middle Cuts or Thick Pieces of Fish
Middle cuts or thick pieces of large fish, such as salmon and
cod, are placed on the platter with the skin up. Carve the fish
in thick slices down to the bone, then slip the knife under the
portions and remove them from the bone.
Split Fish
When fish are split down the back and broiled or sauted,
divide them through the middle, lengthwise, then divide each
half into as many portions as are needed. Very small fish are
served whole.
GARNISHES
^[.ARNISHES serve two purposes. First, they make food
^-^ more attractive to the eye, thus stimulating the flow of
digestive juices and aiding digestion; second, they add bulk or
"roughage" to the diet or increase the nutritive value of the
dish.
GARNISHES SHOULD BE SIMPLE, appropriate and easy to pre-
pare. They should not be used to disguise deficiencies or poor
quality of any dish. Edible garnishes are more appropriate
man those that are used merely for appearance. At least one-
third of a dish should be left free of garnish and the garnish
should be so placed that it does not interfere with the service.
WITH A FEW EXCEPTIONS^ such as candied or maraschino
cherries, sweet pickles^ preserved whole currants, strawberries,
cranberries, etc., sweets are not used to garnish savory dishes.
TOAST OR PUFF PASTES should not 2 as a rule^ be used on the
same dish with potatoes.
Garnishes for Soups
One of the simplest garnishes for soup is a tablespoon of
salted whipped cream sprinkled with a dash of paprika or a
little parsley chopped very fine.
Eggs are used as garnishes of soups in the form of a baked
custard cut in fancy shapes, or as egg balls. (See Soup Ac-
cessories.) The whole yolks poached in salted water just below
the boiling-point may be used; one yolk is served with each
plate of soup.
Noodles, tapioca, spaghetti or macaroni cut in fancy shapes^
or quenelles (See Soup Accessories) make simple and attrac-
tive garnishes for soup.
Cooked vegetables cut in thin strips or in Julienne style or
in fancy shapes or slices, are often used to add color^ flavor and
nutritive value to a soup.
Soups may be garnished also with cubes of bread or puff
paste buttered and browned in the oven or fried in deep fat.
88
GARNISHES 89
Garnishes for Egg Dishes
Eggs are often served with toast in some form. They may
be garnished with crisp slices of bacon and a spray of parsley or
they may be served on a bed of chopped spinach, mashed potato
or chopped meat. A sauce or puree is a very attractive garnish
for poached eggs. Eggs are sometimes garnished with grated
cheese or cooked egg-yolk put through a sieve.
Garnishes for Hot Vegetables
Mashed vegetables are sometimes garnished with bits of but-
ter and a sprinkling of paprika or chopped parsley. Vegetables
that are cooked and served whole are often covered with grated
cheese and put into the oven long enough to brown the cheese.
Slices of hard-cooked eggs or egg-yolk put through a sieve
may be used as a garnish for spinach.
Garnishes for Meat, Fish, Game and Poultry
Garnishes often used with roasts of beef, lamb or mutton are
browned potatoes, croquettes of potatoes or rice, mashed potato
cups filled with green peas or diced vegetables, slices of carrot,
parsnip or turnip sauted or fried in deep fat, or boiled onions
and sprays of parsley or cress.
Roast pork may be garnished with any of the above or with
baked apple or sauted apple rings filled with jelly.
Fried bananas make a suitable garnish for roast of mutton.
Chops and steaks may be served with a simple garnish of
parsley or cress and a slice of lemon or in a border of French
fried potatoes, Saratoga chips or lattice potatoes.
Creamed meat dishes may be served with triangles or rounds
of toast, in borders of rice or mashed potato, in croustades of
bread, in timbale cases or patty shells or in cups of rice or
mashed potato.
Sausage, meat balls or chops are attractive arranged about a
mound of rice, mashed potato, macaroni or spinach.
Roast or fried chicken may be served in a border of celery
or of fried oysters or with a simple garnish of parsley or cress.
Roast duck is attractive with endive and slices of orange and
olives or with rice cups filled with currant jelly; roast goose
with broiled sausage, gooseberry sauce, apple or barberry jelly
90
*^\^
or cooked rings of apple ; roast quail with squares of fried mush
and cubes of currant jelly.
Fish steaks, broiled fish or baked fish are usually garnished
with slices of lemon and parsley or cress. Slices of hard-cooked
eggs are often used as a garnish for fish. Fat fish such as salmon
may be garnished with slices of cucumber or of tomato or
whole tomatoes stuffed. Fish may also be garnished with po-
tatoes, peas, onions or tomato in any form.
Other garnishes that may be used are celery curls, olives,
radishes, mushroom caps, small green pickles, strips of green
pepper or pimiento.
Garnishes for Aspics and Salads
The best and simplest frame for any salad is a bed of lettuce
leaves or shredded lettuce, cabbage or cress. Many salads are
made more attractive by a sprinkling of chopped nuts or capers,
minced green pepper or red pimiento or a grating of cheese.
A half nut-meat, two or three radishes cut to resemble roses,
dates or prunes stuffed with nuts or cream cheese, olives whole
or sliced, tiny new onions or sliced green pickles all add flavor
and color.
Truffles are wild, edible, subterranean fungi that are raised
principally in France. They are too expensive to be used in
large quantity but are highly prized as a flavorful garnish for
aspics, salads and sauces. Because of their black color they
make an effective contrast to the pale or vivid colors of the
more common foods.
Very attractive decorations for meat, fish, salads or aspic
are vegetables cut into simple flower designs. Cucumbers,
beets, turnips, Russian radishes and carrots with chopped
greens are the materials to have at hand. For a lily, cut a
long cucumber in half crosswise. Stand up on this cut surface
and with a sharp knife cut narrow strips, not too thin, from
tip to within an inch of the base. Continue until all the white,
too, is cut into strips resembling petals. Into the center in-
sert a long narrow carrot, root end up, to simulate the yellow
stamen. If necessary wrap base with a rubber band to hold
tightly. Beets and round turnips can be peeled and cut to
resemble budding roses. The turnips can be stained with vege-
table coloring if desired. Flat slices of turnip or Russian radish
GARNISHES
9 1
cut to resemble daisies have a center of carrot and a sprinkle
of chopped green. Calla lilies may be made of thin slices of
larger turnips. Roll until the edges meet in cornucopia shape
and fasten with a toothpick. Insert a long slender carrot or
carrot strip for the stamen and fasten with another toothpick.
Broccoli, leek, shallot, or spinach leaves may be attached. Easter
lili'es are made the same way except that the petal is split after
rolling the calyx.
i
CAltA lil^lS"0NLY ONE
OF THE MAr&MEfcFECWE DE-
CNS TO
CEREALS
EREALS or grains are the seeds of certain grasses, the most
important of which are wheat, oats, rice, barley, corn,
rye and buckwheat. To most persons "cereals" designate
only breakfast cereals; and, while the term "cereal foods"
actually does include also commercial products made from
cereals such as macaroni and spaghetti, corn-starch and the
different flours, the present chapter deals only with cereals in
the breakfast-cereal sense. There are many kinds of breakfast-
cereal products on the market. Most of them are made from
the cereals listed above but they differ because of variety in
the processes of their manufacture. The so-called breakfast-
cereals have a wide usefulness in meals other than breakfast.
Storage of Cereals
With a suitable storage place, cereals and flour may be kept
for several months. Unless there is a cool, dry place for storing
them, they should be purchased only in amounts that can be
used in a few days. This is especially true in warm weather.
Cereal products are liable to spoilage for two reasons: they
may become wormy, or they may become rancid. Products
made from the whole grain are more subject to spoilage than
the refined products, because the whole products contain the
germ, which is high in fat, and it is this that becomes rancid;
it is this, also, that offers suitable material for the development
of eggs laid by insects.
Cereals should be purchased from a merchant whose store is
known to be kept in a sanitary condition. Closed glass jars
are excellent for keeping cereals. If package cereal is purchased,
it should be placed in closed glass jars after it is opened, thus
insuring against infection by insects.
Whole or Refined Cereals
Seeds are made up of starchy material in a network of protein,
and protected by several coats of fiber generally referred to as
bran or cellulose. In the process of manufacture a part or all
of the outer coats may be removed so that the actual composi-
CEREALS 93
tion of the cereal is a matter determined by the method of
manufacture. If a large part is removed, the cereal is called
highly refined.; if a small part is removed, it becomes less
highly refined; and if the coats are not at all, or but slightly
removed, it is called "whole." Therefore, the terms "whole"
and "refined" refer to the amount of outer coating which the
cereal contains and not to the size of the particles into which
the grain is ground.
One way to determine whether cereals are whole or refined
is by the color. The less highly refined cereals are apt to be
dark in color, and the more highly refined cereals are light in
color.
Pre-Cooked Cereals
Cereals were formerly bought uncooked, but by modern
methods of manufacture they may be partly or entirely cooked.
Thus we have, in oats or wheat, a partly cooked product; and
the long list of ready-to-eat cereals or entirely cooked products
which need only a few minutes of reheating to be ready for the
table.
Cooking Cereals
Two of the important secrets in cooking cereals so that they
are acceptable are:
1. To allow enough water to swell and soften all the starch.
2. To cook them long enough to swell the starch and soften
the cellulose present so that the starch may be exposed to the
action of heat and water.
Cereals high in starch and low in cellulose or bran absorb
more water than do cereals containing proportionately less
starch and more cellulose or bran. Also, coarsely ground or
unground cereals require more time to cook than the finely
ground ones. These facts determine the method used in cook-
ing. A refined cereal will require a proportionately larger
amount of water than a whole cereal, though it will require
less time in the cooking; a coarsely ground cereal will require
longer time than a finely ground cereal.
Thorough cooking of cereals is necessary for two reasons:
first, cellulose requires plenty of time to soften; and second,
starch gains in flavor by cooking.
METHODS OF COOKING Cereals may be boiled directly over
the heat; steamed, as in a double boiler; or cooked in a fireless
94
*"N^ B S^"
cooker. The first is the quickest process but requires attention
in order to prevent sticking; and, even when stirred frequently,
some sticking may occur. Since the slower cooking develops
the flavor and more thoroughly softens the cellulose, the use of
either double boiler or fireless cooker is recommended.
AMOUNT OF WATER NEEDED Tastes differ greatly con-
cerning consistency of cereals. Some persons like a thin cereal,
almost a "gruel"; others prefer a thicker product, or "mush,"
while still others choose a thick "porridge." The following sug-
gestions are only general. The directions on the packages are
safe to follow in cooking any uncooked or partly cooked cereal,
then if a thicker or thinner product is desired it is easy to de-
termine the proportions that best suit the family and make your
own rules.
In General:
1. Rolled cereals, such as rolled oats or rolled wheat, require about
two parts of water to one of cereal.
2. Coarsely ground cereals from the whole grain, and unground
whole grains require about four parts of water to one of cereal.
3. Finely ground refined cereals require from five to six parts of
water to one of cereal.
Where directions are lacking for any cereal bought in bulk,
the following table will serve as a fair guide.
Amounts of Water to Use with Various Cereals
To ONE CUP USE CUPS WATER WILL MAKE CUPS PRODUCT
Cornmeal 5 to 6 5 -j-
Hominy Grits 4 to 5 4-j-
Oatmeal 4 to 5 4 +
Oats, rolled 2 to 2 l / 2 2 +
Rice 4 to 5 4 +
Samp 4 to 5 4 +
Wheat, finely
ground 5 to 6 5 +
AMOUNT OF SALT NEEDED Tastes differ again here, but a
safe rule from which to vary is to use one teaspoonful to each
quart of water used.
SWELLING OF CEREALS The amount of swelling is the same
as the amount of water required; that is, rolled cereals swell
about twice, coarsely ground or whole cereals swell about four
CEREALS 95
times; and finely ground and refined cereals swell from five to
six times.
TIME NEEDED FOR COOKING Cereal products have a nat-
urally delicious flavor, although not pronounced, which is
brought out by long slow cooking, and the right proportion of
water and salt.
Long slow cooking used to mean four to six hours, but manu-
facturing processes have cut the time considerably to fifteen
or twenty minutes in the case of some of the fine grained wheat
products, and even three to five minutes for partially cooked
cereals. However, a longer cooking only improves them.
In trying a breakfast cereal for the first time, follow the
directions on the package; then if you wish, adapt them to
the consistency and saltiness you prefer.
Some cereals may be boiled notably rice, and those partially
cooked products that need only three to five minutes cooking,
and so demand but little constant attention. The standard ways
of cooking cereals are steaming in a double boiler or baking
in a slow oven, as in making creamy rice and Indian puddings.
The baking method has obvious advantages, and can well be
extended to include cereals for breakfast or entrees, omitting
the sugar and flavoring.
If cereal is cooked in the evening for the following breakfast,
it may stand in the double boiler all night and be heated in the
morning. It is well not to stir it in the morning until it is
thoroughly hot, because stirring when cold is apt to cause
lumps which resist being made smooth.
Variations in Use of Cereals
Cereals may be cooked in milk instead of water, or a part of
the water may be replaced by milk. This method offers an
easy way of increasing the milk content of a meal and makes
the cereal dish more nutritious. Raisins, dried fruit or fresh
fruit supply a pleasing addition to cooked cereals. Dates or
figs cut into pieces and stirred into the cereal before serving
make a very appetizing change.
To prevent a hardening over of the cereal due to standing,
two or three tablespoons of water may be poured over the top
of the cereal after the cooking process at night is finished.
HOT TAMALES
Filling:
% pound chicken or 3 doves garlic
% pound veal or beef 2 teaspoons salt
3 ounces chili powder iy 2 cups hot water
1 small onion Bay leaves
Envelope:
4 cups yellow corn meal 2y 2 cups stock
1 teaspoon salt l / 2 pound fat
1 pound cornhusks
The "redi-cut" cornhusks may be bought. Field cornhusks
must have both ends removed; immerse in cold water while
filling is prepared.
Boil both meats in water to which have been added one small
onion, a clove of garlic and two bay leaves. When meat is tender
remove and drain stock, setting it aside to use in making en-
velope. Cut meat into small cubes. Heat 3 tablespoons of fat,
add meat and brown. Mash 2 cloves of garlic and add to meat.
Stir the chili powder and spices with hot water and mix well
with the meat. Cook mixture 10 minutes.
To make the envelope: Mix 4 cups yellow corn meal, salt,
half the stock and all of fat. Beat well with a wooden spoon
and then add remainder of the stock. It is very important that
the mixture be well beaten to make it Kght. Dry cornhusks on
the inside, spread thinly with mixture; add one teaspoon of
chili meat filling and roll up like a cigarette. Fold both ends
down. Stack in a steamer and cook until well done. If a steamer
is not available, place an ordinary kitchen pot lid on bottom
of a deep kettle. Cover with husks and stack tamales over this
in "pyramid" style. Pour four cups of boiling water over
tamales, cover tightly and cook over a low flame for 45 minutes
or one hour. Always serve tamales hot.
YEAST BREADS
BREAD as a universal article of food has much in its favor.
Flour, its chief ingredient, is not quickly perishable and
is rather easily stored and transported. Bread itself keeps well,
is mild in flavor, is inexpensive and furnishes material needed
by the human machine.
Excellent bread can be made of good bread flour, salt, water
and yeast. Better bread can be made if sugar and fat are added.
It is in the handling of the dough, not in the proportions of in-
gredients, that much bread is ruined.
Flours and Meals Used in Bread-making
"While flours and meals made from oats, corn, rice and other
seeds are used to some extent with wheat flour in making yeast
breads, by far the larger amount of yeast bread is made from
wheat flour only and most of it is made from highly refined
white flour. This is because the gluten of wheat flour possesses
properties of toughness and elasticity which enable the dough
containing it to stretch and hold gases produced in it by the
action of yeast or introduced into it by baking-powder. The
dough rises and becomes light.
However, the quality of wheat flour depends upon the season
in which the wheat is grown. Winter wheat is sown in the
fall, remains in the ground all winter and is harvested in the
summer. This grain is generally poor in gluten, but rich in
starch. Winter wheat is used largely for pastry flour. Spring
wheat is sown in the spring and is harvested in the summer at
about the same time as the winter wheat. The grain is generally
rich in gluten but poor in starch. Spring wheat flours are best
for bread making. Standard flours are a mixture of spring and
winter wheat^ and they vary little in quality.
IN SELECTING A FLOUR FOR BREAD-MAKING every effort
should be made to secure a flour of good bread-making prop-
erties. Bread flour, when rubbed between the fingers, has a
granular feeling. It will not hold its shape when pressed in
the hand. Bread flour can be used successfully in making
cakes and pastries.
97
98
>-
A GOOD PASTRY FLOUR differs from bread flour in contain-
ing more starch and not only less gluten but a less elastic gluten
than bread flour. It has an oily feeling when rubbed between
the fingers, and holds its shape when pressed in the hand.
Pastry flour can not be used successfully in making bread.
WHOLE- WHEAT or entire-wheat flour, combined in right
proportions with white flour, can be made into excellent bread.
GRAHAM FLOUR, although coarse, may, rightly combined
with white flour, be made into excellent bread.
Proportions of Flour and Liquid in Dough
For one cup of liquid use approximately three cups of flour.
This proportion varies widely because of differences in the
absorptive powers of different flours. A good bread flour will
take up more water than a poor bread flour. Flour, except
graham or whole wheat, should always be sifted before being
measured.
Yeast
The most satisfactory temperature for the growth of yeast
is from 75 to 95 F. It ceases to grow when the temperature
is below 30 F. and is killed at about 212 F. Yeast should not
be softened in very cold water if immediate activity is desired.
COMPRESSED YEAST A cake of fresh compressed yeast
breaks with a clean edge and has no odor of putrefaction. It is
creamy yellow and uniform in color. When old, compressed
yeast becomes slightly slippery, is streaky, and has an un-
pleasant odor. Only fresh compressed yeast should be used in
bread-making. In compressed yeast the yeast plants are alive
and ready for action, hence bread-making with compressed
yeast requires less time than with dry yeast.
DRY YEAST Dry yeast is a mass of yeast plants mixed with
corn-meal and dried. As yeast will live for some time and yet
can not grow without moisture, these dry cakes will keep for
many weeks. The dried plants are inactive and even when
warmth and moisture, food and air are supplied, they take
some time to become active again.
LIQUID, RAILROAD OR STARTER YEAST This consists of po-
tato water, sugar and salt, in which yeast plants are in an active
condition. The starter must be stored in a cool temperature
to retard the action of the yeast. The disadvantage of liquid
yeast lies in the fact that other yeasts than those best suited
YEAST BREADS 99
for bread-making may be thriving there also, and soon bread
made from this perpetual yeast may have a characteristic flavor.
Starter should be thrown out occasionally and remade with a
fresh yeast cake.
Amounts of Yeast
From one-sixth of a cake to four cakes of compressed yeast
may be used to one cup of liquid in making bread. The amount
of yeast within this range does not affect the flavor of the bread
if the dough is handled properly. With the minimum amount
of yeast, the process will take six hours or more; with the maxi-
mum amount of yeast, it may, with skillful handling, be com-
pleted in one hour and twenty minutes. From two tablespoons
to one cup liquid yeast may be used for each loaf of bread.
Methods of Using Yeast
Compressed or dry yeast should be softened in from one-
fourth to one-half cup of lukewarm water to which one tea-
spoon of sugar has been added. The compressed yeast may be
used immediately. The dry yeast may be set aside in a warm
place for an hour before it is added to the batter.
Liquids for Bread-making
All liquids should be boiled or scalded before being used,
to kill any organisms which might develop in the dough.
MILK is the best liquid because of its contribution to the food
value as well as to the appearance of the loaf. It gives a white
crumb and a rich golden brown crust. The loaf retains its mois-
ture better than when no milk is used.
WATER is cheap, but has no food value. It produces a satis-
factory loaf, however.
POTATO WATER produces a characteristic crust excellent in
flavor and hastens the action of the yeast. It darkens the bread
slightly but gives a loaf which retains its moisture and does not
get stale as quickly as when water alone is used.
Miscellaneous Materials Used in Bread
SUGAR is added to improve flavor, to produce a better bloom
in the crust and to hasten the activity of the yeast. Too much
sugar slackens or softens the dough. In making large quantities
100
*^/vy
of bread, the liquid is decreased if a large quantity of sugar is
used.
SALT is used to improve the flavor of bread. Too much salt
retards the activity of the yeast.
FAT is added to give slight tenderness to both crust and crumb
and to improve the keeping qualities of the loaf. Any soft fat
of mild flavor may be used as shortening in bread.
EGGS give a yellow color to the crumb and a brown rich bloom
to the crust. Because of their leavening power, eggs add to the
lightness of the loaf.
CURRANTS, RAISINS, DATES AND OTHER FRUIT add flavor
and nutrition but have little effect on the texture of the dough.
NUTS add shortening in addition to flavor and food value.
General Directions for Making Bread
SCALD ALL LIQUIDS to ensure destruction of micro-organisms
which might interfere with the action of the yeast plant.
ADD FAT, SUGAR AND SALT to the hot liquid and let it cool
until it is lukewarm.
ADD THE YEAST CAKE, softened in a small amount of water
to which one teaspoon of sugar may be added.
ADD THE FLOUR, sifted before measuring, except graham
and whole-wheat flours, which are measured before they are
sifted. There are two methods of mixing flour into dough:
SPONGE METHOD
Add one-half of the flour to the liquid-and-yeast mixture
and beat thoroughly. Set in a warm place. When the batter
is light, add the remaining flour, or enough to make a dough
of the desired stiffness, and knead thoroughly until it no
longer sticks to the board.
STRAIGHT DOUGH METHOD
Add to the liquid-and-yeast mixture all the flour to be used
or enough to make a dough of the desired stiffness and knead
thoroughly until it no longer sticks to the board. This method
may always be used with compressed yeast.
KNEADING BREAD Press the dough away with the palms of
your hands. Stretch the dough from the edge, folding the
KNEAD YOUR DOUGH
FIRMLY BUT QUICKLY
AND DEFTLY. FOLD IT
INTO LOAVES NVITH THE
LEAST POSSI BLE FLOUR.
DIVIDE YOUR LOAF INTO
THREE AND BRAID IT
Wheat Flour Institute
YEAST BREADS IOI
back edge over to the center. Press the dough away with the
palms of your hands, exerting sufficient force to cause the part
folded over to adhere to the mass under it, and repeat folding.
Turn dough one-quarter around and repeat kneading. Con-
tinue turning, folding and kneading until dough is smooth
and elastic and will not stick to an unfloured board.
FIRST RISING OF DOUGH Put the dough into a greased
receptacle large enough to hold at least three times the bulk of
the dough. Grease the top of the dough, cover the receptacle
and set in a warm place. Let the dough rise until it trebles its
bulk.
SECOND RISING OF DOUGH Remove dough from receptacle,
bring the top around the under side and fold edges together.
This leaves a ball-shaped mass, round and smooth on the upper
surface. Bread carefully shaped in this way seems to give a
much better product than seamy rough dough. Put back in
receptacle. Grease the dough, cover the receptacle, return to
warm place to rise again. This second rising is not essential
but is worth while because it improves both the texture and
the flavor of bread.
SHAPING INTO LOAVES Shape by folding the sides of a piece
of dough under while pressing the dough so as to lengthen it.
The top should be kept perfectly smooth and the only crease
in the dough should be on the under side as the loaf is placed
in the tin. If a soft crust is desired, grease the dough. To braid,
cut into three, roll lengthwise, pinch together at one end, and
proceed. Cover and allow to rise until double its bulk.
BAKING BREAD A loaf of average size should bake from fifty
to sixty minutes at a beginning temperature of about 400 F.
After fifteen or twenty minutes, the temperature of the oven
may be reduced. A moderate heat for sixty minutes produces
better bread than a hot oven for thirty minutes.
The baking process may be divided into four periods:
First 1 5 minutes the dough should continue to rise.
Second 1 5 minutes the dough should crust over and brown
slightly.
Third 1 5 minutes the center of the loaf should bake and the
crust continue to brown.
Fourth 15 minutes the loaf should shrink from the sides of
the tin and should be browned evenly over its entire surface.
It should have a hollow sound when tapped.
102
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Bread is baked to complete the rising, kill the yeast plants,
drive off the carbon dioxide and alcohol, dextrinize the crust,
harden the cell walls of the crumb and develop the desired
flavor.
Tests for Determining When Bread Is Done
1. When the color is a rich golden brown.
2. When the loaf shrinks away from the sides of the pan.
3. When the sides of the pan sizzle when touched with
a damp finger.
4. When a clean toothpick inserted comes out free from
any particles of the dough.
5. When the loaf gives a hollow sound on being tapped.
Characteristics of a Good Loaf of Bread
SIZE AND SHAPE A medium-sized loaf made of dough
weighing from one pound to one and one-quarter pounds costs
less to bake and is more likely to be thoroughly baked than a
very large loaf. A moderate-sized loaf is about four or five
inches deep, eight or nine inches long, and four or five inches
wide.
The careful shaping of the dough is the first step necessary
in making a well-shaped loaf of bread.
COLOR Bread should have a good bloom and be golden
brown in color with a depth of crust on top, bottom and sides.
The crumb should be cream- white in color with no dark streaks
through it. A grayish color indicates poor flour or poor
handling of the dough.
TEXTURE Nothing is more difficult to describe than texture,
nothing more indicative of quality. Perfect texture of the
crumb depends on kneading the dough until it is smooth and
elastic and until it can be kneaded on an unfloured board with-
out sticking. It depends on having the dough rise to double
or treble its size once or twice before it is made into the loaf $
and once in the tins. It depends on careful baking. To de-
termine the texture of the crumb, cut the loaf in two. The
holes should be small and uniform with no streak near the bot-
tom of the loaf and no lumps through the loaf. Press the
YEAST BREADS 103
center of the loaf with the knuckles; if the elasticity and mois-
ture are right, the loaf should spring back to shape.
The crust should be smooth without large holes on the bot-
tom and without a split on one side of the loaf. If the top
crust is rough it may be due to insufficient kneading or to
putting the dough into the tins before it is perfectly smooth.
FLAVOR AND ODOR A well-made, well-baked loaf will
taste slightly sweet, neither too fresh nor too salty, and will
have no suggestion of acidity, rawness or mustiness.
Common Causes of Inferior Bread
POOR FLOUR A cheap flour is an expensive flour because it
makes a loaf inferior in texture, color, flavor and volume.
OLD YEAST Dead yeast plants can not leaven bread. Old
compressed-yeast cakes or dry yeast which has been stored
away until many of the yeast plants are dead will act very
slowly if at all and will not give best results.
Too MUCH OR Too LITTLE KNEADING Over-kneaded
dough becomes sticky and will not rise well in the oven. Un-
der-kneaded dough makes streaked bread, poor in texture,
which sometimes contains lumps that might have been worked
out in the kneading.
Too MUCH FLOUR Too stiff a dough rises very slowly and
therefore often is not allowed to rise sufficiently. This is a
green dough and produces a loaf with poor flavor.
OVER-RISING Too long rising gives a very porous loaf with
little flavor, a pale crust and a porous crumb with broken, irreg-
ular cells. This bread crumbles badly. If the rising continues
too long, the bread is sour.
UNDER-RISING This gives a bread of dark crust which has
blisters just under the crust. The loaf is small and flat. It
browns easily in the oven. Such dough is said to be green.
Too COOL AN OVEN Bread will continue to rise too long
if the oven temperature is too low. The result is bread that is
very porous in the center and upper part of the loaf.
Too HOT AN OVEN The dough crusts over immediately
and can not continue to rise the first ten or fifteen minutes it
is in the oven, or the crust may break as it is forced up
usually on one side more than the other. The crust becomes
very brown while the center is underdone.
ROPK IN BREAD This appears during hot, damp weather.
104
*VXN^SX
It is due to the presence of a bacillus and the ropy, stringy
quality does not develop immediately after the bread is baked.
Rope gives bread a very disagreeable odor and makes it unfit
for use.
If rope develops all utensils used in making bread and con-
tainers in which bread is stored should be sterilized with boil-
ing water. Vinegar equal to two per cent, of the amount of
flour used should be added to all bread made until the supply
of flour is exhausted. This is approximately one-half ounce
(one tablespoon) of vinegar to one and one-half pounds of
flour.
MOLD Bread wrapped while hot molds quickly. Containers
used for storing bread should be washed and aired frequently,
and immediately if mold is found.
Care of Bread After Baking
Bread should be removed from the tins as soon as it is taken
from the oven, and placed on racks or crosswise of the tins so
that air can circulate on all sides of it. Quick cooling prevents
loss of moisture.
Varying from Recipes in Making Bread
Water may be substituted for milk in all bread recipes. This
is not always desirable, however, as one purpose of milk is to
increase the nutritive value of bread.
In recipes using compressed yeast, one cup potato yeast may
be substituted for one cake compressed or dry yeast. When
potato yeast is used it is necessary to use a little more flour.
STANDARD RECIPE FOR WHITE BREAD
2 cups milk l /z to 2 compressed yeast
1 l /2 teaspoons salt cakes softened in l / 4 to l /z
1 teaspoon to 2 tablespoons cup lukewarm water
sugar 6 to 8 cups sifted flour
Shortening, if desired, up to (enough to make a dough)
2 tablespoons
Scald milk, add salt, sugar and shortening and cool. When
lukewarm add the softened yeast. Add flour to make a stiff
batter, beating well. Add flour enough to make a firm but not
stiff dough. Mix and turn on to a floured board. Knead until
YEAST BREADS 105
the mixture is smooth and elastic to the touch and until it does
not stick to the hands or to the unfloured board. Put into a
greased bowl, brush over top with melted fat. Cover and set
in a warm place to rise. When it has almost trebled in bulkj
fold it under and let it rise again. When light, shape into loaves
and put into greased bread tins. Let rise until almost treble in
bulk. Bake in a hot to moderate oven (400 F. to 375 F.) for
fifty to sixty minutes. Remove from pans and cool as quickly
as possible. Well-made and thoroughly baked bread should
keep from five to ten days in a thoroughly clean, well-aired
bread -box.
POTATO BREAD
l /z cup boiling water 1 cake yeast softened in
1 1 /2 teaspoons salt l / 2 cup lukewarm water
1 tablespoon sugar 4 cups flour (enough to make
1 tablespoon fat medium dough)
2 cups mashed potato
Combine in order given, following general directions for
bread-making, straight dough method (page 100).
POTATO YEAST
(Liquid, Railroad or Starter)
'6 medium-sized potatoes ]/ 3 cup sugar
4 pints boiling water 3 tablespoons salt
1 cup flour 1 yeast cake softened in
l /2 teaspoon ginger 1 cup lukewarm water
Pare potatoes and cut in small pieces. Cook in the boiling
water until well done. Mash the potatoes or force them
through a colander.
Mix sugar, salt, ginger and flour. Pour over these ingredi-
ents the hot, cooked, mashed potatoes with the water in which
they were cooked. When lukewarm add the softened yeast.
Keep at room temperature twenty- four hours.
Pour into sterilized crock or jar. Cover and store in a cool,
dark place. Liquid yeast may be used for two weeks. It is
not desirable to keep it longer. When making new liquid
yeast, use tme cup of the old liquid yeast or a compound yeast
cake to start it.
io6
CORN BREAD
l /2 cup corn-meal l /2 cake compressed yeast,
l 3 /4 cups water softened in l /$ cup warm
l l /2 teaspoons salt water
2 tablespoons sugar 2% to 3 cups flour (enough
1 tablespoon shortening to make medium dough)
Cook the corn-meal in the water ten minutes; add salt, sugar
and fat to the mush. Cool until lukewarm, stirring occasionally
to prevent a film. When cool add the yeast and beat well.
Add the flour and mix well. Knead, using as little flour on
the board as possible. Put into a greased bowl, let rise until
it almost doubles in bulk. Work it down and let k rise again.
Mold it into loaves, place in pan and let rise until it has almost
doubled in bulk. Bake in a moderate oven (400 to 350 R).
RAISIN BREAD
2 cups scalded milk l /z to 1 yeast cake softened in
2 tablespoons shortening l /2 cup warm water
l /4 cup molasses White flour to make a medium
1 1 /2 teaspoons salt dough
% cup raisins, chopped and floured
Follow general directions for making bread, either sponge
method (page 100) or straight dough method (page 100). Add
raisins after the bread is kneaded.
GRAHAM BREAD
2 cups scalded milk l /2 to 1 yeast cake softened in
l l /2 teaspoons salt l /z cup warm water
2 tablespoons molasses or 1 cup wheat flour
2 tablespoons sugar About 5 cups graham flour
Follow general directions for making bread, adding only the
white flour at first. Let the mass stand in a warm place until
light. Stir in graham flour to make a stiff batter. Pour into
a baking-dish and when it has almost doubled in bulk bake for
one hour in a moderate oven (400 to 3 50 F.) . If a less moist
bread is desired, enough flour, part white and part graham,
may be used to make a dough and the bread may be made by
the straight dough method (page 100).
YEAST BREADS
107
WHOLE-WHEAT BREAD
2 cups scalded milk 5 cups whole-wheat flour
2 to 4 tablespoons sugar 2 to 3 cups white flour
1 to 2 tablespoons shortening enough to make a medium-
1 1 /2 teaspoons salt stiff dough
1 yeast cake softened in l /z cup warm water
Follow general directions for making bread (page 100).
RYE BREAD
Follow recipe for whole-wheat bread, using rye flour instead
of whole-wheat and adding caraway seeds if desired.
ROLLED-OATS BREAD
1 cup rolled oats 1 tablespoon melted shortening
2 cups boiling water l / 2 to 1 yeast cake, softened in
l /2 cup molasses or brown or l / 2 cup lukewarm water
white sugar 4^2 cups sifted flour
l l / 2 teaspoons salt
Let the rolled oats steam for an hour in the boiling water.
Cool and add the yeast, molasses, salt, and melted fat. Then
stir in the flour and set away to rise. When light, beat
thoroughly, place in greased bread-pans, let rise again, and bake
in a moderate oven (400 to 350 F.) one hour. If a less moist
bread is desired, add enough white flour in the beginning to
make a medium dough and follow directions for straight dough
method (page 100).
GLUTEN BREAD
2 cups scalded milk 2 egg-whites
1 yeast cake softened in l l /z teaspoons salt
l / 2 cup lukewarm water 4 cups gluten flour
"When the milk is cool, add the softened yeast, the salt, the
gluten flour, a little at a time, and finally the slightly beaten
whites of eggs. The mixture should be of a consistency to drop
from a spoon rather than to pour and should be baked in
greased pans filled about half full. Follow general directions
for rising (page 101 ). When ready, bake one hour in a moderate
io8
^/K^V>"
oven (400 to 350 F.). If a less moist bread is desired, add
enough white flour to make a dough, after beating in the
gluten flour, and follow directions for straight dough method
of making bread, (page 100).
REFRIGERATOR ROLLS
y 2 yeast cake 1^/2 teaspoons sugar
2 cups sifted flour %. cup milk
y s teaspoon salt l / 2 cup butter
Crumble yeast into sifted dry ingredients and mix well. Add
cold milk and make into a soft dough. Turn onto a lightly
floured board and knead until light and elastic. Roll into a long
narrow strip l /$ inch thick. Divide butter into 5 portions. On
half of strip place 1 portion of hard butter, thinly sliced. Fold
over remaining half of strip and press down firmly. Let stand
10 minutes in refrigerator. Repeat 4 times. After last rolling
wrap in waxed paper and chill in refrigerator overnight. In
morning cut dough into portions. Roll out each portion l / 2 inch
thick and shape into crescents, pocketbooks, twists or any other
desired shapes. Place on baking sheet. Brush with milk and
melted butter. Sprinkle with salt or poppy seed if desired.
Place shaped rolls in refrigerator, cover with waxed paper and
let chill l /2 to several hours or until needed. Bake at once in hot
oven (400 F.) 18 to 20 minutes. Makes 16 rolls.
STANDARD ROLL RECIPE
2 cups scalded milk 6 cups flour (enough to make
l l /2 teaspoons salt a smooth, tender dough)
4 tablespoons sugar 4 tablespoons shortening
1 yeast cake softened in J4 cup warm water
If a greater amount of sugar is used the rolls will be sweeter.
If a greater amount of shortening is used, the rolls will be
richer and more tender. Not less than two or more than eight
tablespoons of sugar or fat should be used, however.
Follow general directions for making bread (page 100)
kneading in a little less flour and permitting the dough to be-
come lighter during each rising process both after it is shaped
and before the rolls are placed in the oven.
YEAST BREADS 109
VARIATIONS OF STANDARD ROLL RECIPE
PLAIN ROLLS When dough is light, cut or tear it into
pieces about the size of a small egg or a walnut. Fold the
sides under until the top of the roll is perfectly smooth. Brush
the top with fat. Place in greased bread tin or on bread sheet
or in individual molds. When light, bake in a hot oven (400-
425 F.)
CINNAMON ROLLS Follow standard roll recipe. When
dough is light, roll into a sheet about one -fourth inch thick,
spread liberally with melted butter, sprinkle with sugar and
cinnamon. Add currants if desired. Roll like jelly-roll. With
sharp knife or shears cut slices from the roll and place them
an inch apart on a well-greased sheet. When light, bake in
hot oven (400 -42 5 F.) about twenty minutes. When baked,
the tops may be brushed with the yolk of egg diluted with a
tablespoon of milk and returned to oven to brown.
CLOVER-LEAF ROLLS Follow standard roll recipe. When
light, break dough into small pieces about the size of marbles.
Brush with fat and place three or four of these tiny balls close
together in greased muffin rings or pans. When very light,
bake about fifteen minutes in hot oven (400 -42 5 F.). The
success of these rolls depends on having the three balls together
equal only as much dough as an ordinary roll would require
and letting them rise very light before baking them.
CRESCENT ROLLS Follow standard roll recipe, adding flour
to make a stiffer dough than for most rolls. When light, cut
the dough into small pieces the shape of triangles. Brush with
fat. Roll each triangle, beginning at the base. Press dough
lightly with palm of hand, bringing ends around to form a
crescent. Place on tins some distance apart. When light, bake
in hot oven (400 -42 5 F.) fifteen minutes. Brush with egg-
yolk mixed with milk and return to oven for browning.
DINNER ROLLS Follow standard roll recipe, using four
tablespoons shortening, desired amount of sugar and two egg-
whites. Add one-half the flour, beating until smooth, then
add the beaten whites of eggs. Add the remainder of the flour,
knead lightly and let rise. When light, cut or break dough
into rolls the size of walnuts. Shape, place on well-greased
pans, one-half to one inch apart, let rise and glaze with white
of egg diluted with water. Bake in hot oven (400 -42 5 F.).
110
J-^f
FINGER ROLLS Follow standard roll recipe and when light
cut and shape into long pieces about the size and shape of a
finger. Place on well-greased pan, brush with melted fat or
egg-white. When light, bake in hot oven (400 -42 5 F.).
LUNCHEON ROLLS Follow standard roll recipe using 6 to
8 tablespoons of shortening. Add two well-beaten eggs after
one-half the flour has been added. Add remaining flour and
knead. When light shape into small biscuits. Place one inch
apart in well-greased pan. When double in bulk, brush with
egg-yolk diluted with milk and bake in hot oven (400-
425 F.).
PARKER HOUSE ROLLS ( POCKET-BOOK ROLLS) Follow
standard roll recipe. Four tablespoons each of sugar and short-
ening give excellent results. When light, roll dough one-
fourth inch thick. Cut with biscuit-cutter, brush each circle
with melted fat and crease through the center of each roll with
the dull edge of a knife. Fold each roll over double. Place
on well-greased pan one inch apart, brush with melted fat and
when very light bake in hot oven (400 -42 5 F.).
TWISTED ROLLS Follow standard roll recipe. When light,
break dough into small pieces and roll out with palm of hand
into rolls about seven inches long and one-half inch thick,
taking an end of each strip between the thumb and forefinger
of each hand, twist in opposite directions and bring the ends
together. Shape the two ends alike, place one-half inch apart
on well-greased pans, brush with melted fat or egg-yolk diluted
with milk. When light, bake in hot oven (400 -42 5 F.).
TEA BISCUIT Follow standard roll recipe. When dough is
light, roll and cut with biscuit-cutter. Place on well-greased
pans one-half inch apart. When light bake in hot oven (400-
425 F.).
ENGLISH MUFFINS Follow standard roll recipe, making a
very soft dough. Knead lightly until smooth and elastic. Work
down and when light again roll out with rolling-pin to about
one-fourth inch in thickness. Cut in circles. When light, bake
on ungreased hot griddle. As soon as they are brown on one
side, turn them over. When both sides are browned, bake
more slowly until finished. They may be browned on the
griddle and then put into the oven to finish baking.
A modification of this recipe may be made by adding only
enough flour to make a drop batter. Let it rise until light.
Drop batter into large, greased English muffin rings, arranged
YEAST BREADS III
on a greased baking-sheet. Bake in a hot oven (400 -42 5
F.) until nearly done. Turn rings upside down and complete
baking.
BREAD STICKS
1 cup milk 1 yeast cake dissolved in
4 tablespoons shortening l / 4 cup lukewarm water
1 1 /2 tablespoons sugar 1 egg
l /2 teaspoon salt 3 1 /2 cups flour
Scald the milk and cool it. Cream the shortening and sugar,
add the milk and salt. Add the dissolved yeast, the egg- white,
well beaten, and the flour. Knead and let it rise. Shape into
sticks about the size of a lead pencil. Put into a floured pan,
far apart; the sticks must not touch one another after they have
risen. When light, put into a hot oven (400 F.) then de-
crease the heat so that the sticks may become dry and crisp.
MONTE CARLO BREAD
2 cups scalded milk 2 yeast cakes softened in
l l /z teaspoons salt l /2 cup lukewarm water
1 cup sugar 9 cups flour (enough to make
1 cup shortening soft dough)
6 eggs 1 1 /2 cups currants
Add scalded milk to salt, sugar and shortening. When luke-
warm, add the yeast. Add one-half the flour and beat well.
Let rise until very light. Add slightly beaten eggs, currants
and remaining flour. Knead lightly, let rise and when light
place in well-oiled bread-pans. Let rise and when light bake in
moderate oven (400 to 375 F.). When the bread is a few;
days old, cut in thick slices and toast.
SWEDISH TEA RING
1 cup scalded milk 1 yeast cake softened in
%. teaspoon salt 54 CU P warm water
l /4 cup sugar 3 l /2 cups flour
6 tablespoons shortening 1 egg
*/s cup finely chopped nuts
Add the scalded milk to the salt, sugar and fat. When luke-
warm add the yeast. Add one-half the flour and beat well.
Let rise until very light. When light add the egg and the re-
maining flour and beat well. Let rise. Divide the dough into
112
f^f^^^r
two parts and shape each in a long, round piece and form two
circles, placing the circles on a baking-tin. Brush with white
of egg and sprinkle with finely chopped nuts. With a large
pair of scissors cut toward the center of the ring, but not quite
to the center, at intervals of two inches, placing the cut section
each time flat on the tin, giving it a petal-like appearance.
When light, bake in a hot oven (400 R).
RUSKS
1 cup scalded milk % teaspoon salt
l /2 to 1 yeast cake softened in 2 tablespoons sugar
54 cup warm water l /2 cup shortening
3 l /z to 4 cups flour (enough 1 egg
to make a soft dough)
Cool the milk, add the yeast and one-half the flour. When
light add salt, sugar, shortening, egg and remaining flour. Knead
lightly on well-floured board. Let rise until double in bulk,
roll out and cut with biscuit-cutter. Place on well-oiled pans,
let rise and bake in hot oven (400 F.).
RAISED BUCKWHEAT CAKES
2 cups boiling water 1 tablespoon molasses
l /2 cup corn-meal 1 teaspoon salt
l /2 yeast cake 2 cups buckwheat flour
54 cup warm water 1 teaspoon soda
54 cup hot milk
Pour the boiling water over the corn-meal and let stand until
it swells. Soften the yeast in the lukewarm water. After the
corn-meal is cool, add the molasses, salt, yeast and flour. Beat
thoroughly and set in a warm place to rise over night. It
should rise and fall again by the morning. Then add a teaspoon
of soda dissolved in the hot milk^ stir well^ and bake on a hot
griddle.
When the cakes are desired frequently (say, three times a
week), fresh yeast will not be required after the first making,
if a little more than a pint of the batter is reserved each time
and kept in a cool place to be used instead of the yeast. Mo-
lasses in buckwheat cakes helps to give them a good color in
frying. Without it, they may be gray and unattractive.
MAKE CRUMPETS OR MUFFINS
FOR YOUR ENGLISH COUSIN
AND HONEY SANDWICH BREAD
AS A TREAT FOR THE FAMILY
Wheat Flour Institute
Modern Science Institute
1
FOR GAY DAYS DO A
HONEY TWIST, SWEDISH
TEA RING OR PECAN
CARAMEL ROLLS
ROU.S
VABIATIOHS
YEAST BREADS 113
RAISED MUFFINS
1 cup scalded milk 1 yeast cake softened in
y 4 teaspoon salt % cup warm water
4 tablespoons sugar 3 1 /2 cups flour
2 tablespoons shortening 1 egg
Add the scalded milk to the salt, sugar and shortening. When
lukewarm, add the yeast and one and one-half cups flour.
Beat thoroughly. When very light, add the beaten egg and the
remaining flour. Mix well and let the dough rise until double
in bulk. Shape into portions small enough to fit into muffin-
tins. Brush the top with egg-white slightly beaten and sprinkle
with chopped nuts. Let rise in a well-oiled tin and bake in
a hot oven (400 -42 5 K).
COFFEE CAKE
1 cup scalded milk % cup sugar
1 cake yeast softened in % teaspoon salt
l /4 cup warm water 4 tablespoons shortening
2 cups flour (about) Sugar, cinnamon
1 egg
Cool the milk and add the yeast and one-half the flour. Beat
well and let rise until very light. Add the slightly beaten egg,
sugar, salt and melted fat, mix thoroughly and add remaining
flour. Let rise until almost double in bulk. Pour into shallow,
greased pans. When light, sprinkle thickly with sugar and
cinnamon. Bake twenty minutes in a hot oven (400 F.).
Serve hot. See page 476 for Upside-Down Cakes.
HOT CROSS BUNS
1 cup scalded milk 1 yeast cake softened in
% teaspoon salt 54 cup warm water
5/2 cup sugar 4*/z cups flour (about)
l /2 cup shortening 3 egg-yolks
Add scalded milk to salt, sugar and shortening. When luke-
warm, add yeast and one and one-half cups flour. Beat well
and let rise until very light. Add the egg-yolks and the re-
maining flour. Knead lightly and let rise until double in bulk.
Roll out dough to one inch thickness and cut into rounds. Set
these close together on a greased pan and let rise. Glaze the
surface of each bun with a little egg-white diluted with water.
114
f^^-r^r
With a sharp knife cut a cross on top of each bun. Bake about
twenty minutes in a hot oven (400 F.). Just before remov-
ing from the oven, brush with sugar and water. Fill the cross
with a plain frosting. A cup of raisins may be added to the
dough, if desired.
BRIOCHE
1 cup milk, scalded 2 yeast cakes
2^ cup butter % cup lukewarm water
2 teaspoons salt 4 eggs, well beaten
l/ 2 cup sugar Melted butter
4y 2 cups bread flour
Scald milk and add butter, salt and sugar; stir until butter
dissolves. When tepid, add yeast previously soaked in water,
and beaten eggs. Sift flour before measuring, beating well into
mixture. Allow to rise in warm place six hours. Refrigerate
over night or until ready to use. Form quickly into small balls
to !/3 size of muffin tins or glasses. Brush tops with melted
butter and let rise until double in bulk. Bake in hot oven
(400 F.) for 20 minutes.
FOR BRAIDS Dust a bread-board lightly with flour and roll
brioche dough gently into a sheet about one-half inch thick.
Cut the dough in strips one-half inch wide, leaving one end
uncut. Place on greased baking-sheet and brush the cut edges
with melted fat. Fold the strips over each other to form a
braid. Pinch both ends of braid together, flatten, and press
down on pan to prevent strips separating and losing shape.
To MAKE BOW-KNOTS Twist strips of brioche dough lightly
and tie in a bow-knot. Bring the ends down and press to the
pan.
FOR A DESSERT A very good simple dessert is made by bak-
ing this mixture in small shapes in muffin-tins and serving it
with chopped fruit and a fruit sauce poured over it.
RAISED DOUGHNUTS
1 cup scalded milk 1 yeast cake softened in
1 teaspoon salt Y 4 cup lukewarm water
3 / 4 cup sugar 3 1 / 2 to 4 cups flour
2 tablespoons shortening 1 egg
1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
Add scalded milk to salt, sugar and fat. When lukewarm,
add the softened yeast. Add one and one-half cups flour. Al-
(TEAST BREADS 115
low the sponge to stand in a warm place until it is so light that
it will fall at the slightest touch. Add the egg, nutmeg, and
remainder of the flour and knead. The dough should be softer
than bread dough. Cover and set in a warm place to rise. Toss
on a lightly floured board and roll until three-fourths inch
thick. Cut with a doughnut cutter and let rise. Fry in deep
fat (3 60 -3 70 F.) two to three minutes. When frying, put
the raised side of the doughnut down in the fat. The heat
will cause the top side to rise by the time the doughnut is ready
to turn.
SALT RISING BREAD
1 cup milk 1 tablespoon melted shorten-
2 tablespoons white corn-meal ing (may be omitted)
1 teaspoon salt Flour
1 tablespoon sugar
Scald the milk. Allow it to cool until it is lukewarm; then
add the sugar, corn-meal and salt. If shortening is used, add it.
Place in a fruit can or a heavy crock or pitcher and surround
by water at about 120 F. Water at this temperature is the hot-
test in which the hand can be held without inconvenience.
Approximately this temperature can be secured by mixing equal
parts of boiling water and cold (not icy) water. Allow the
mixture to stand for six or seven hours, or until it shows signs
of fermentation. When it is fermented sufficiently the gas can
be heard as it escapes. This leaven contains enough liquid for
one loaf. If more loaves are needed, add 1 cup water, 1 tea-
spoon salt, 1 tablespoon sugar, and 1 tablespoonful shortening
for each additional loaf to be made. Beat thoroughly and put
the sponge again at the temperature of about 120 F. When it
is very light, add more flour gradually until the dough is so stiff
that it can be kneaded without sticking to the hands or to the
board. Knead ten or fifteen minutes; put at once into the
pans; allow to rise until about two and one-half times its
original bulk, and bake. This bread is never so light as bread
raised with yeast. A loaf made with one cup of liquid therefore
Will come not quite up to the top of a pan of standard size.
HONEY TWIST
1 cup milk, scalded % cup sugar
1/4 cup butter 1 teaspoon salt
n6
-/
2 cakes compressed yeast 2 eggs
y 4 cup lukewarm water 5-6 cups flour
Pour hot milk over butter, sugar and salt. Crumble yeast
into lukewarm water to soften. Cool milk to lukewarm, add
yeast and well-beaten eggs. Beat in flour to make a soft dough,
then turn out on a floured board and knead until smooth. Form
into a ball and place in a greased bowl. Cover and let rise until
double in bulk. When light, shape into a long roll about one
inch in diameter. Coil the roll into a greased cake pan, begin-
ning at the outside edge and covering the bottom. Brush with
honey topping. Let rise until double in bulk and bake in mod-
erate oven (375 F.) 25 to 30 minutes.
Honey Topping:
1/4 cup butter 1 egg white
2/ cup confectioners' sugar 2 tablespoons honey, warmed
Cream all ingredients together and brush over Twist before
baking.
USES FOR STALE BREAD
Many ways to prepare stale bread for use in canapes are
found on page 159. Use the cookie cutter freely to produce
additional designs. For bread croustades see page 329. If a
lid is wanted, cut slice of stale bread to fit and toast, using an
olive or radish attached with a toothpick for a knob handle
(page 314).
Day-old rolls make excellent quick canapes. Cut off one end,
scoop out soft center and pack the shell tight with any good
canape paste: anchovy butter, sardine paste, deviled lobster
paste, Roquefort cheese, or any other favorite. Wrap in wax
paper and keep in refrigerator. When needed slice thin, arrange
carefully on a tin and brown lightly under the broiler. Garnish
with olive rings, radish slices or parsley.
QUICK BREADS
breads are those breads or bread-like mixtures which
are made up and baked at once. The essentials of quick
breads are a liquid and flour, When leavening agents are used
they act quickly and make the mixture light without a long
period of waiting.
Quick breads may be improved in flavor and texture by the
'addition of salt, sugar, eggs, shortening, etc., in various com-
binations and proportions. Shortening and eggs contribute
liquid to the mixture, which explains apparent discrepancies in
proportions given in various recipes for quick breads.
READY-TO-USE FLOURS Prepared flours which contain
leavening and other ingredients require only milk or water to
make excellent griddle cakes. The addition of eggs and shorten-
ing produces a batter suitable for muffins, waffles, and similar
quick breads.
Types of Quick Breads
There are four types of quick breads the pour batter, the
drop batter, the soft dough and the stiff dough; the latter is
seldom used.
THE POUR OR THIN BATTER will pour easily from a spoon or
a pitcher and can vary in degree of thinness. The breakfast
puff and the popover mixtures are examples of the thinnest
batter, while the griddle-cake and the waffle mixtures are ex-
amples of a thicker pour batter.
THE DROP, OR THICK, BATTER does not pour readily, but
drops in a soft moist mass from a spoon or must be shaken or
helped free from it. Muffins and fritters are examples of the
drop batter.
THE SOFT DOUGH can be handled more or less easily. Biscuits
and some cookie mixtures are examples of the soft dough.
THE STIFF DOUGH can be handled easily, and some force
must be used to roll it out. The Southern beaten biscuit and
noodles are examples of the stiff dough.
117
Approximate Proportions of Liquid to Flour in Making
Quick Breads
POUR OR THIN BATTER Use 1 cup liquid with 1 to 1 l /z cups flour
DROP OR THICK BATTER Use 1 cup liquid with 1 l /z to 2 cups flour
SOFT DOUGH Use 1 cup liquid with 2 to 2 l / 2 cups flour
STIFF DOUGH Use 1 cup liquid with 4 to 5 cups flour
Methods of Mixing Quick Breads
MUFFIN METHOD This method is usually used for the
batter type of quick bread. The dry ingredients are mixed and
sifted, then the liquid and egg (if used) are added, either
separately or combined. When well mixed, the melted shorten-
ing is beaten in.
CAKE METHOD This method is used for the richer muffins.
The shortening is creamed, the sugar stirred in, then the beaten
egg added. The rest of the dry ingredients are mixed and sifted
and added gradually to the first mixture alternately with the
liquid.
BISCUIT METHOD The dry ingredients are mixed and sifted
and the shortening cut in with knives or worked in with the
tips of the fingers, it being necessary to keep the fat hard until
the dough goes into the oven. If the shortening becomes warm,
or is melted, the result is not flaky and flakiness should be a
characteristic of biscuits.
POPOVER MIXTURES should be thoroughly beaten with an
egg-beater for several minutes, in order to introduce as much
air as possible and to break the liquid present into tiny droplets.
The mixture, being very thin, will not hold air very long, so
it should be poured immediately into the baking containers,
which may be of tin, glass, aluminum, earthenware, iron or
steel. If metal containers are used, they should be hot when
the batter is poured into them, so that the baking may begin
as soon as the pans are put into the oven. A hot oven is needed
at first and until the batter has risen to full height, then the
temperature should be reduced in order to prevent burning.
FOR GRIDDLE-CAKES AND WAFFLES the griddles and irons
should stand perfectly level; then if the batter is poured
steadily from a pitcher or from the tip of a large spoon, it will
spread itself evenly.
MUFFIN MIXTURES AND SIMILAR BATTERS should be stirred
QUICK BREADS 1 19
and beaten only enough to combine ingredients thoroughly and
produce smoothness of texture. The muffins should be baked
at once.
SOFT DOUGHS should be handled as little as possible and
kneaded only enough to make a smooth surface, free from dry
flour. Much kneading develops a stretchiness in the dough
which detracts from flakiness. The dough should be rolled or
patted out to one-half inch or more in thickness if thick, soft
biscuits are desired, or rolled out to one-quarter inch in thick-
ness if thin, crusty biscuits are desired. The biscuits should
be baked at once.
Baking Temperatures For Quick Breads
All quick breads should be baked in a moderate to hot oven
(350-460 F.).
POPOVERS
1 1 / 4 cups flour 1 teaspoon sugar
% teaspoon salt 1 cup milk
2 eggs
Mix the flour, salt and sugar. Gradually add the milk and
the well-beaten eggs. Beat thoroughly. Have ready some small
ramekins or muffin-pans, well greased and piping hot. Fill
them about half full of the batter and bake in a hot oven
(450 F.) for twenty minutes. Lower to 350 F. and bake
fifteen to twenty minutes more.
SWEET MILK GRIDDLE-CAKES
3 cups flour 1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons salt 2 cups milk
l l /2 tablespoons baking- 1 egg
powder 1 tablespoon melted fat
Mix and sift the dry ingredients and add the milk, gradually,
beating constantly to make a smooth batter. Add the beaten
egg and the fat and bake on a hot griddle. This makes a thick
bready cake. If a thinner cake is desired, use more milk.
SOUR MILK GRIDDLE-CAKES
Use recipe for sweet-milk griddle-cakes, substituting thick
sour milk for sweet and using one teaspoon of soda instead of
the baking-powder. If thicker than liked, use water to thin.
120
BREAD CRUMB GRIDDLE-CAKES
1 1 /2 cups stale bread-crumbs l /z cup flour
1 Yz cups scalded milk l / 2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons shortening 4 teaspoons baking-powder
2 eggs
Soak the crumbs in the milk and melted fat until they are
soft. Add the eggs, well beaten, and the dry ingredients,
mixed and sifted. Bake on a hot, greased griddle. The cakes
are very tender and should be turned carefully.
BAKING POWDER BUCKWHEAT CAKES
1 1 /2 cups buckwheat flour ^2 teaspoon salt
l /2 cup wheat flour 1 tablespoon shortening
5 teaspoons baking-powder l l /2 cups milk
1 tablespoon molasses
Sift dry ingredients together. Add melted fat to milk and
molasses, then add slowly to dry ingredients. Beat well and
bake until brown on a slightly greased, hot griddle.
RICE GRIDDLE-CAKES
1 cup boiled rice \ l / 2 cups flour
2 cups milk 1 tablespoon shortening
l /2 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons baking-powder
1 tablespoon sugar 1 egg
Put the cooked rice to soak with one cup of milk, and in the
morning add the salt, sugar, shortening, flour and baking-
powder. Beat the mixture well, then add the well-beaten egg
and the other cup of milk. Bake on a hot greased griddle.
CORN-MEAL GRIDDLE-CAKES
1 cup corn-meal 1 1 / 2 cups milk
1 tablespoon sugar 2 cups flour
1 teaspoon salt 4 teaspoons baking-powder
2 cups boiling water 2 eggs
Put the meal, sugar, and salt into a mixing-bowl, and pour
over them the boiling water. Let stand until the meal swells,
then add the cold milk. When the mixture is quite cool, stir
QUICK BREADS 121
in the flour and baking-powder, mixing well, and lastly add
the eggs, well beaten. Bake on a hot griddle. The cakes should
be small, well browned and thoroughly cooked; they need a
little longer cooking than wheat griddle-cakes.
FLANNEL CAKES
1 tablespoon shortening 1 teaspoon salt
2 cups flour 4 teaspoons baking-powder
2 cups milk 2 eggs
Rub the shortening into the flour, and add the salt and bak-
ing-powder. Beat the yolks of the eggs light, add the milk
to them and beat well. Add the liquid to the flour mixture,
stirring until quite smooth. Beat the whites light, add them
to the batter, and bake on a hot greased griddle.
FRENCH OR JELLY PANCAKES
3 eggs 1 cup milk
1 teaspoon sugar l /z cup flour
l /2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon shortening
Separate the yolks and whites of the eggs. To the beaten
yolks add the sugar, salt and one-half cup of milk. Stir in
the sifted flour, the other half cup of milk, the melted shorten-
ing, then fold in the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs. When
eggs are high, two eggs and a half teaspoon of baking-powder
may be used.
Bake on a hot griddle, making the cakes slightly larger than
usual. Spread each cake with tart fruit jelly and roll while hot*
Place all on a platter, side by side, with the lapped edge of the
roll touching the bottom of the platter to keep the cake from
spreading. Dredge with sugar and, if desired, burn lines on the
sugared surface with a red hot wire toaster. This gives an
attractive appearance and a slight flavor of burnt sugar.
APPLE FLAPJACKS
1 tablespoon shortening 1 teaspoon baking-powder
1 tablespoon sugar 1 cup apples, chopped fine
2 eggs Cinnamon
l l / 2 cups flour Milk
Cream the shortening and sugar, add the beaten eggs, the
flour sifted with the baking-powder and cinnamon, and the
122
*vx^-sy
chopped apples. Then gradually add milk to make a medium
batter. Bake on a griddle as for ordinary pancakes and serve
in an overlapping row around a platter of pork chops, or serve
separately with roast pork, either hot or cold. Cooked apples
or a dry apple sauce may be used with batter in the same way.
POTATO PANCAKES
2 cups grated potato Salt
1 egg Pepper
2 tablespoons flour Onion-juice
Milk
Scrub and pare the potatoes and grate into cold water to
keep them from discoloring. Drain well and add the egg, well-
beaten, the flour, and sufficient milk to make a stiff batter.
Season with salt, pepper and onion-juice. Cook in a frying-
pan with hot fat to the depth of about one-half inch. A large
spoonful of batter makes a good-sized cake. Cook until well
browned and crisp and serve as a vegetable with meat and
gravy. Especially good with a stew.
WAFFLES
1 Yz cups flour 1 cup milk
l /2 teaspoon salt 2 eggs
3 teaspoons baking-powder 1 tablespoon shortening
Mix the flour, salt and baking-powder, add the milk grad-
ually, then the eggs, beaten until very light, and the melted
shortening. Be sure that both sides of the waffle-iron are hot
and that it is well greased. After baking each waffle, let the
iron heat a minute before putting in batter for the next.
CREAM WAFFLES
2 eggs 1 tablespoon corn-meal
2 cups sour cream 1 teaspoon soda
2 cups flour l /z teaspoon salt
Beat whites and yolks of the eggs separately. Mix with the
beaten yolks the cream, flour, corn-meal, soda and salt, and
finally the egg-whites, beaten until stiff. Bake at once on a
hot waffle-iron.
APPLE-FILLED FLAPJACKS OR
WAFFLES HOT OFF THE GRID-
DLE WILL GET EVERYBODY UP
PROMPTLY
JCE SEVERAL KINDS
COFFEE CAKE AT
HE SAME TIME, SUCH
AS THESE STREUSEL, .')
CHERRY AND FROST- IP
ED. POPOVER BATTER
SHOULD HAVE A
WARMHEARTED RE-
EPTION BY SIZZLING
HOT BUTTERED PANS
OR CLASS CUPS
Wheat Flour Institute
QUICK BREADS 123
BUTTERMILK WAFFLES
1 cup corn-meal 1 cup wheat flour
1 1 /2 cups water % teaspoon soda
1 teaspoon salt l /2 cup sweet milk
1 tablespoon shortening Buttermilk
2 eggs
Cook the meal, water, salt, and shortening together for ten
minutes, stirring constantly. Beat the yolks and whites of
the eggs separately until very light. When the mush is cool,
add the yolks. Sift together the flour and soda? and add to
the mush, alternating with the sweet milk. Fold in the egg-
whites, and finally add buttermilk to make a pour batter.
Bake in a hot waffle-iron. This mixture is improved if it stands
for a short time before the waffles are baked.
BAKING POWDER MUFFINS
2 cups flour 1 cup milk
l /2 teaspoon salt 1 egg
1 tablespoon sugar 2 tablespoons melted short-
4 teaspoons baking-powder ening
Mix and sift the flour, salt, sugar and baking-powder. Add
the milk gradually, the well-beaten egg and melted fat. Pour
into well-greased muffin-tins, filling the tins two-thirds full.
Bake in a hot oven (400 -42 5 F.) from twenty to twenty-
five minutes.
GRAHAM MUFFINS
2 cups graham flour % teaspoon soda
2 tablespoons sugar \ l / 2 cups sour milk
1/2 teaspoon salt l / 2 tablespoon shortening
1 egg 1 teaspoon baking powder
Sift the flour with the other dry ingredients, and turn the
bran back into it. Add the milk gradually^ the well-beaten
egg, and the melted shortening. Fill well-greased muffin-tins
about two-thirds full and bake in a hot oven (400-42S F.)
from twenty to twenty-five minutes.
124
CORN-MEAL MUFFINS
1 cup corn-meal 1 cup milk
1 cup flour 1 egg
l /2 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons shortening
4 teaspoons baking-powder
Mix and sift the corn-meal, flour, salt and baking-powder.
Add the milk gradually, then the well-beaten egg, and melted
fat. Bake in well-greased muffin-pans in a hot oven (400-
425 F.).
JELLY CORN MUFFINS
Use the recipe for corn-meal muffins. Fill greased muffin-
tins one-fourth full, put a teaspoon of jelly on the top of the
batter in each cup, cover the jelly with more batter and bake
in a hot oven (400 -42 5 F.).
CORN MUFFINS WITH DATES
1 cup white corn-meal 1 cup flour
2 tablespoons brown sugar 4 teaspoons baking-powder
1 teaspoon salt 1 egg
2 tablespoons shortening l /z cup chopped dates
154 cups milk
Mix the corn-meal, sugar, salt and melted shortening. Scald
the milk, pour it over the mixture, and let it stand until the
meal swells. When cool, add the flour sifted with the baking-
powder, the well-beaten egg and the dates. Beat thoroughly,
and bake in greased muffin-tins in a hot oven (400 -42 5 F.).
CORN-MEAL ROLLS
1 % cups bread flour % cup milk
l /4 cup corn-meal 1 tablespoon sugar
3 teaspoons baking-powder 2 tablespoons shortening
1 teaspoon salt 1 egg
Mix and sift dry ingredients and cut in the fat. Beat the
egg and add it to the milk. Combine the liquid with the dry
ingredients. Knead slightly, roll out and shape as Parker House
rolls. Bake in a hot oven (400 -42 5 F.) for twenty to twenty-
five minutes.
QUICK BREADS 125
RICE MUFFINS
l /4 cup sugar 1 cup milk
% cup boiled rice 5 teaspoons baking-powder
1 egg 2 l /4 cups flour
2 tablespoons shortening 1 teaspoon salt
Mix sugar, boiled rice, egg, melted shortening and milk. Sift
baking-powder, salt, and flour together, and add. Bake in
greased muffin-pans in a hot oven (400 -42 5 F.) for thirty
minutes.
RAISIN BRAN MUFFINS
1 cup bran 1 tablespoon melted short-
*/4 cup flour ening
4 teaspoons baking-powder l / 2 cup seeded raisins
l / 2 teaspoon salt l / 2 cup milk
1 1 /2 tablespoons molasses 1 egg
Mix and sift the flour, baking-powder and salt, stir in the
bran, add the molasses, the melted fat, raisins and the milk
gradually. Then add the well-beaten egg and bake in muffin-
tins in a hot oven (400 -42 5 F.) for thirty minutes.
BAKING POWDER BISCUIT
2 cups flour 2 tablespoons shortening
4 teaspoons baking-powder % CU P liquid ( a ll milk or
1 teaspoon salt half milk and half water)
Mix dry ingredients and sift twice. Work in shortening
with tips of the fingers, or cut in with two knives. Add the
liquid gradually, mixing with a knife to a soft dough. Owing
to differences in flours, it is not always possible to determine the
exact amount of liquid. Toss on a floured board, pat and
roll lightly to one-half inch in thickness. Shape with a biscuit-
cutter. Bake in hot oven (450 -460 F.) twelve to fifteen
minutes.
EMERGENCY BISCUIT Use the recipe for baking-powder
biscuit, using more liquid to make the dough soft enough to
drop from the spoon. The amount of the liquid in this recipe^
in most cases, will be just half the amount of flour (two cups
of flour to one cup liquid). Drop the biscuit on to a well-
greased pan^ or into greased muffin-tins. Bake in a hot oven
(450-460 F.).
*$JB
QUICK NUT BREAD, DATE-BRAN BREAD,
HONEY SANDWICH BREAD AND
PRUNE-RYE BREAD, NOT TO MENTION
THE EVER POPULAR GINGERBREAD AND
CORN BREADS, WILL FIND THEIR
PLACES AT YOUR TABLE
WHILE MARMALADE ESCORTS SCO
ON THEIR SHORT LIFE, SALLY LUN
IS TURNED OUT OF ITS PAN TO FACE
A HUNGRY WORLD
r-Wheat Flour Institute
126
./>-/
BAKING POWDER BISCUIT PIE CRUST This is sometimes used
to top a meat pie or a deep dish fruit pie where a rich crust is
not desired. Follow directions for baking-powder biscuit, roll-
ing the crust to about one-fourth inch thick, or drop it as for
emergency biscuit, leaving a small opening in the middle for
the escape of steam.
PECAN ROLLS Spread biscuit dough with shortening, brown
sugar and pecans. Roll and cut into 1-inch slices. Bake in skillet,
muffin tins or on cookie sheet with sugar-nut mixture instead of
fruit as for Upside-Down Cakes. See page 476.
DATE BISCUITS
Add one-half cup dates, stoned and quartered, to the recipe
for baking-powder biscuits.
SODA BISCUIT
2 cups flour 1 teaspoon salt
l /2 teaspoon soda 2 tablespoons shortening
1 cup thick sour milk
Follow directions for baking-powder biscuit. The dough
should be stiffer than for baking-powder biscuit.
SCONES
2 cups flour 4 tablespoons shortening
4 teaspoons baking-powder % cup milk
1 teaspoon salt
Mix and sift the flour, baking-powder and salt, and chop in
the shortening. Add sufficient milk to make a soft dough.
Toss on a floured board and roll into a sheet one-half inch thick.
Shape with a small round cookie-cutter. Bake on a griddle,
turning so that both sides are cooked to a delicate brown. Lay
a napkin on a plate, arrange the scones on it and fold the corners
of the napkin over them. Split and butter while hot.
SALLY LUNN
l /2 cup shortening 2 cups flour
l /4 cup sugar 1 cup milk
4 teaspoons baking-powder 1 egg
Cream the shortening with the sugar. Mix and sift together
the flour and baking-powder and add to the creamed mixture,
QUICK BREADS 127
alternating with the milk. Add the beaten egg and bake in a
loaf or in muffin-pans, in a moderate oven (3 50 -400 F.).
When fresh huckleberries are in season, one cup stirred in
just before baking will be an agreeable addition.
SOUTHERN BEATEN BISCUIT
2 cups flour y$ cup shortening
1 teaspoon salt Milk and water
Sift the flour with the salt. With the tips of fingers work
in shortening and moisten to a stiff dough with equal quantities
of milk and water mixed. Place on floured board and beat
with rolling-pin for at least one-half hour, folding the dough
every few minutes. Roll to one-third inch thick, shape with
a biscuit-cutter about two inches in diameter, prick with fork
and place on greased baking-sheet or inverted dripping-pan.
Bake twenty minutes in hot oven (400 -42 5 F.). They
should be light, of even grain, and should crack at the edges
like crackers.
SPOON CORN BREAD
2 cups water 1 tablespoon shortening
1 cup white corn-meal 1 teaspoon salt
1 cup milk 2 eggs
Mix the water and corn-meal and bring slowly to the boil-
ing-point. Cook five minutes. Add the milk, shortening, salt
and well-beaten eggs. Beat thoroughly and bake in a well-
greased pan for twenty-five minutes at 400 F. Serve from the
same dish with a spoon.
SOUTHERN SPOON BREAD
l /4 cup of fat and cracklings l /2 teaspoon salt
from pork, beef, or chicken 1 cup corn-meal
fat 2 eggs
3 cups boiling water
Add fat and cracklings to the water, and when boiling
sprinkle in the salt and corn-meal, stirring constantly. Cook
in a double boiler one hour, cool, and add the well-beaten eggs.
Turn into a greased baking-dish and bake in a moderate oven
(350 F.) three-fourths of an hour.
128
NORTHERN JOHNNY CAKE
2 cups corn-meal 1 l /z teaspoons salt
2 cups sour milk 2 eggs
2 tablespoons shortening 1 teaspoon soda
2 tablespoons sugar, white or 1 tablespoon cold water
brown
Cook together the meal, milk, shortening, sugar and salt in
a double boiler for about twenty minutes. Allow the mixture
to cool, then add the well-beaten eggs and the soda dissolved
in the water. Bake in a shallow iron or granite pan for about
thirty minutes at 400 F.
In case there is not time to cook and cool the meal, the fol-
lowing method of mixing may be used. Mix and sift together
the meal, sugar, salt and soda, add the sour milk gradually, then
the well-beaten eggs and the melted fat. Bread made by this
method does not have as good texture as that made by the first
method.
NEW ENGLAND CORN CAKE
1 cup corn- meal 1 egg
1 cup white flour 1 cup milk
3 teaspoons baking-powder 2 tablespoons melted short -
2 tablespoons sirup ening
Mix and sift the dry ingredients. Beat the egg light, add
the milk, shortening and sirup. Stir into the dry mixture and
beat well. Pour into a well-greased, shallow pan and bake
at 400 F. twenty-five to thirty minutes.
SOUTHERN CORN BREAD
1 cup sour milk l /z teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon soda dissolved in l l / 2 cups corn-meal
1 teaspoon water White of one egg beaten stiff
1 egg-yolk and added last
Mix in the order given and bake in muffin-tins or in a shallow
pan in a moderate to hot oven (400 -42 5 F.) for twenty
minutes.
To be real Southern corn-bread, this should be made of white
corn-meal made from the whole grain.
QUICK BREADS 129
HONEY SANDWICH BREAD
l /2 cup bran 1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup graham flour 1 cup milk
1 cup white flour l /$ cup honey
4 teaspoons baking-powder l /2 cup chopped walnuts
1 egg
Mix and sift the dry ingredients together. Add the nuts,
mix, and add milk, honey and beaten egg. Beat thoroughly.
Pour into a greased oblong bread -pan and bake one hour at
400 F.
BOSTON BROWN BREAD
1 cup corn-meal 1 teaspoon salt
1 cup rye flour % CU P molasses
1 cup graham flour 2 cups sour milk or
% tablespoon soda 1% cups sweet milk
Mix and sift the dry ingredients. Mix the molasses and milk
and add to the dry ingredients. Beat thoroughly and turn into
well-greased molds, filling each mold about two-thirds full.
Cover and steam three hours. Remove the covers and bake the
bread (375 F.) long enough to dry it off.
RAISIN BREAD
2 cups corn-meal 1 1 /2 cups sour milk
1 cup Graham flour 1 egg
1 teaspoon salt l /2 cup molasses
l /2 teaspoon soda 3 tablespoons baking-powder
1 cup raisins
Mix and sift the dry ingredients, add the raisins and toss
lightly together. Add the other ingredients. Mix thoroughly
and steam for two and three-quarters hours.
WHOLE WHEAT SANDWICH
4 cups whole-wheat flour 8 teaspoons baking-powder
l /$ cup sugar % cup seedless raisins
1 egg 1/2 cup chopped nuts
2 cups milk 2 teaspoons salt
Mix the dry ingredients, add the nuts and raisins, add the
milk and egg and beat thoroughly. Turn into a greased pan.
Let the dough rise for fifteen minutes. Bake one hour in a
moderate oven (3SO-400 F.).
130
DATE BRAN BREAD
2 cups bran % cup dates cut in small
2 cups white flour pieces
1 teaspoon salt l l /2 cups milk
3 tablespoons sugar 1 egg
4 teaspoons baking-powder 2 tablespoons melted short-
ening
Sift the dry ingredients together, add the dates, toss lightly
together and add the milk. Mix well and add beaten egg and
melted fat. Turn into a greased pan or mold and cover with
oiled paper. Steam for three hours.
QUICK NUT BREAD
2 cups bread flour 1 whole egg
l / 2 cup sugar Yolk 1 egg
4 teaspoons baking-powder 1 cup milk
1 teaspoon salt l /2 cup finely chopped walnut
5 tablespoons shortening or other meats
Mix and sift flour, sugar, baking-powder and salt. Work in
shortening as for biscuit; then add egg and egg-yolk well-
beaten, milk and chopped nut meats. Beat thoroughly and turn
into a buttered bread pan. Let stand twenty minutes; then
bake at 400 F. forty to fifty minutes. This is a delicious bread
for sandwiches.
PRUNE RYE BREAD
2 cups sifted rye flour % cup sugar
2 cups sifted wheat flour 1 egg, slightly beaten
6 teaspoons baking powder 1%. cups milk
1^/2 teaspoons salt 1 cup cooked prunes,
chopped
Sift together dry ingredients. Combine egg and milk, and
add to flour mixture, stirring only until well mixed; stir in
prunes. Turn into greased loaf pans and bake in moderate oven
(350 F.) about 1 hour. Yield: 2 loaves, 6x3 inches, or 1
sandwich loaf, 11x3x3 inches.
SANDWICHES
AN encyclopedia published about 1900 defines a sandwich
as "an article of food consisting of a slice of meat, fish,
fowl or other food placed between two slices of bread, which
may be plain or buttered." No such simple definition could
be given today, for from these simple beginnings the sandwich
has developed in all directions, and has adapted itself to such
varied needs that it ranges from a fragile morsel served with
afternoon tea to an elaborate combination of toast, meat, let-
tuce, tomato, sauce, and any number of other things which
combine to make it a complete and satisfying meal.
Even the requirement of two slices of bread with something
between them is no longer in force. "Open-faced" sandwiches
offer almost unlimited opportunity for variety in both cold
and hot meals. In these the slices of bread or toast are laid
side by side. Sometimes, usually in hot meat sandwiches, both
slices are covered with beef or chicken, or whatever gives the
characteristic flavor, and the whole is covered with gravy.
Often, especially in cold sandwiches, one slice holds its chicken
or tomato or crab meat, while its companion is covered with
cole slaw and dill pickles or a lettuce leaf holding a spoonful
of mayonnaise. The possibilities are endless, and the sug-
gestions given here can be combined and adapted to almost any
requirement where a sandwich can be called into service.
Serving Sandwiches
Garnishes of fine parsley, cress, celery plumes, stuffed or ripe
olives, or slices of lemon or pickle are effective on the serving-
dish. Barberries and leaves, fresh nasturtium leaves and
blossoms, or something to indicate the kind of sandwich may
be used as a garnish.
Making and Keeping Sandwiches
The bread for flat sandwiches should be a day old because
it can be cut more easily than fresh bread. For rolled sand-
wiches fresh bread should be used. Bread baked in special
tins which provide slices that are perfect squares or circles is
131
132
*xys^*x
economical when the crusts are to be cut off, but any loaf of
comparatively fine grain may be used.
The Bread
ALL SORTS OF BREADS are made into sandwiches white,
brown, rye, graham, whole-wheat, raisin, date, nut, etc. Some-
times two or more kinds are used together. Long narrow rolls
are attractive when sliced lengthwise, buttered and filled. For
picnics, where a substantial filling is desirable, the crumb of the
roll may be removed and the hollow filled with sandwich ma-
terial. Thin salt wafers and crackers are often used instead of
bread for paste sandwiches.
FOR FANCY SANDWICHES, to be used for tea or receptions?
or as an appetizer at the beginning of the meal, or to be served
with the salad, the bread should be cut into slices as thin as
possible and the crusts should be removed. Use a sharp knife,
so that there will be no ragged edges.
PICNIC AND LUNCH-BOX SANDWICHES are cut somewhat
thicker than fancy sandwiches, and the crusts are generally
left on.
Butter and Filling
The filling and butter for sandwiches should be increased in
proportion to the thickness of the slice of bread.
PREPARING THE BUTTER The butter should be thoroughly
creamed before it is used or it will not spread evenly over the
bread. To cream butter, place it in a warm bowl and mash
and beat it until it is soft. It will then spread well even on
fresh bread. Sandwich butters are often made by creaming
one cup of butter with one-half cup of cream. One-half cup
of butter, creamed, will spread a two-pound sandwich loaf
cutting forty to forty-five slices.
RELISHES such as mustard, salt, grated horseradish, chopped
parsley, chives and curry may be added to creamed butter for
use in sandwiches of meat, tomato, game, chicken $ fish, cheese
or eggs.
> SPREADING BUTTER AND FILLING A poorly buttered sand-
wich is very unpalatable. Spread the butter to the very edges
of the slices^ on the sides that are to be put together, being
careful, however, not to let the butter spread over the edges
So that it is untidy. If the slices need not be fitted together,
it is often easier to spread the bread before cutting it from the
SANDWICHES 133
loaf. A pliable knife or small spatula is a help in spreading
butter or filling.
Spread the filling on the buttered surface of one slice only
of each sandwich. Have the filling come to the edge of the
sandwich, if possible.
When mayonnaise is used, not combined with a filling, as in
mayonnaise and lettuce sandwiches, it is more evenly distributed
if it is spread on one of the slices of bread and the lettuce leaf
placed upon it.
Shaping the Sandwiches
Sandwiches may be cut with a knife into triangles, oblongs
and similar outlines, or shaped with cutters into hearts, circles,
crescents or any preferred design. When sandwiches are shaped
with these fancy cutters, the bread should be shaped before it
is spread, to avoid waste of butter and filling. Care must be
taken afterward, however? not to spoil the shape while spread-
ing. Heart,; club, spade and diamond shapes are popular for
card parties. Heart shapes are attractive for valentine and an-
nouncement parties and for showers. Strips, triangles, circles,
crescents and rolled and folded sandwiches are used for teas.
ROLLED SANDWICHES Cut the crusts from a fresh loaf of
bread (or if a stale loaf of bread is used, cut off the crusts and
wrap for an hour in a cloth wrung from cold water) . Spread
a thin layer of butter on one end of the loaf and then cut from
it as thin a slice as possible. If a filling is used, spread it on the
buttered slice. Roll this slice with the spread side inward and
lay it on a napkin, with the edge of the slice downward. When
all the sandwiches have been prepared, draw the napkin firmly
around the rolls and put them in a cold place until needed. The
butter will harden and hold the rolls together.
Time Savers in Sandwich Making
In making sandwiches in quantity, route the work so that
there will be no waste motions. Have a large enough space
for (1) cutting the bread; (2) spreading the slices with butter
and filling; (3) shaping and (4) wrapping the sandwiches.
Keeping Sandwiches
Sandwiches are best prepared just before serving, especially
if the filling is of a kind that will become limp or soak into the
134
w^v
bread. When it is necessary to make sandwiches several hours
before they are to be used, they may be wrapped in paraffin
paper or a slightly dampened cloth or placed in a stone jar.
Filling for Meat and Salad Sandwiches
When sliced meat is used, a sandwich is easier to eat and
generally more palatable if the meat is cut as thin as a knife-
blade with several tiny slices instead of one thick one in each
sandwich. Fancy butters are excellent with sliced meat.
All kinds of potted and minced meats are used between slices
of bread with or without mayonnaise. Salted meat and fish
fillings are improved by lemon-juice, chopped pickles or capers.
Pastes of fresh fish and meat require high seasoning.
All forms of meat may be used with lettuce or cress, between
two slices of buttered bread, with or without salad dressing.
The slices should be pressed together and the crust trimmed, if
desired. Lettuce may be used in large, crisp leaves, or in "rib-
bons," to make the sandwich easier to eat. Where mayonnaise
dressing is used, the sandwiches should be made at the last
moment, and served promptly. Tomatoes and cucumbers with
lettuce and mayonnaise make delicious salad sandwiches.
Filling for Tea Sandwiches
The tea sandwich is seldom made of meat, though such things
as minced chicken, lobster, or crab meat, and sardines beaten
to a paste, are sometimes used for it. The bread is cut very
thin and the fillings may be a bit of lettuce spread with mayon-
naise dressing, chopped olives, nasturtiums, watercress and
similar morsels. An attractive sandwich is made from diminu-
tive Vienna rolls split not quite through and spread with vege-
table filling. Another tea sandwich is made by spreading jelly
or preserves between two salt crackers. If the crackers are
spread with a thin film of butter and crisped quickly in a hot
oven, this form of sandwich is really worth eating. Almond
sandwiches of all varieties are delicious for the tea-table.
Filling for Sweet Sandwiches
Preserves of all kinds, drained from their sirup, marmalade^
jam, jelly, crystallized and candied fruits are used for sweet
sandwiches with graham or salt wafers, as well as with bread or
sponge cake. The crystallized fruits may be sliced thin and
SANDWICHES 135
dipped in cream, chopped fine, moistened in orange-juice, and
spread between bread or lady-fingers.
Scraped or grated maple sugar mixed with chopped nuts
is used with brown bread. Ice-cream is cut in slices and put
between wafers or layers of sponge cake.
Tiny tea biscuits make an excellent foundation for sweet
sandwiches. They are split and buttered while hot and filled
with honey and almonds, cream cheese and jam, or chopped
nuts and marmalade. They are best served warm.
Filling for Nut Sandwiches
Pignolias or pine nuts, butternuts, walnuts, hickory nuts,
almonds and pecans may all be put through a meat-chopper,
mixed, a very little salt added, and spread over thin, buttered
slices of brown or white bread. Or, to the ground nuts may be
added a little salt and paprika and either salad oil or creamed
butter to make a smooth paste.
The salty taste of peanut butter is good with raisin bread.
Peanuts may be rubbed to a paste with creamed butter and a
layer of chopped preserved ginger added.
Butternuts, walnuts, hickory nuts, almonds, or pecans may
be used in equal parts, ground fine, with cream cheese moistened
with sweet thick cream and seasoned with salt. Grated Ameri-
can cheese may be used instead of cream cheese and melted
butter instead of cream.
PETITE MARMITE
Yeast bouillon, on the market as cubes or paste, makes an
excellent spread for sandwiches, hors d'oeuvres and appetizers.
It may be used alone or mixed with butter or other pastes. Its
strong flavor makes it especially desirable with milder flavored
fillings.
PREPARED BUTTERS FOR SANDWICHES
ANCHOVY BUTTER
Yolks of 4 hard-cooked eggs l/ 2 cup butter
4 boned anchovies Paprika
Rub the yolks of the eggs to a smooth paste with the an-
chovies and butter and add paprika to taste.
HAM BUTTER
l /2 cup cooked ham Yolks of 2 hard-cooked eggs
5/2 cup butter Pepper
Grind the ham and pound smooth with the butter and the
yolks of the eggs and season with pepper.
SHRIMP BUTTER
1 cup cooked shrimps 1 cup butter
Salt About l / 4 cup tarragon vine-
% teaspoon cayenne gar or lemon- juice
Pound the shrimps in a mortar with salt and cayenne. Add
the butter and moisten the mixture with the tarragon vinegar
or lemon -juice.
Sandwiches with Nut Fillings
PEANUT BUTTER, FIG AND RAISIN SANDWICHES
54 cup figs l /z teaspoon salt
54 cup raisins l /2 cup peanut butter
2 tablespoons light corn-sirup 2 tablespoons lemon-juice
Wash figs and raisins and put through a food-chopper. Add
salt, peanut butter, lemon- juice and corn-sirup, and mix well.
Use between thin, buttered slices of bread.
PEANUT BUTTER AND ORANGE MARMALADE
SANDWICHES
l /2 cup peanut butter l /z cup orange marmalade
54 cup cream
Mix peanut butter with cream or milk until it is smooth
and light in color. Spread generously on thin slices of bread,
and add a layer of orange marmalade. The marmalade may be
mixed with the peanut butter, if preferred.
PEANUT BUTTER AND BANANA SANDWICHES
l /2 cup peanut butter l /2 cup banana pulp or sliced
54 cup cream or hot water bananas
Lemon-juice
Mix the peanut butter with the cream until it is smooth and
light in color, then combine with the banana pulp and a little
SANDWICHES 137
lemon-juice and use between thin, buttered slices of bread.
Or place slices of banana over layer of peanut butter on bread*
PEANUT BUTTER AND PICKLE SANDWICHES
*/2 cup peanut butter % cup cream or hot water
l / 2 cup chopped pickle
Cream peanut butter and water together and add chopped
pickle. Use between thin, buttered slices of bread.
PEANUT BUTTER AND ONION SANDWICHES
1 cup peanut butter 1 small Bermuda or
l /4 cup mayonnaise Spanish onion
Beat peanut butter, add mayonnaise and spread sandwiches.
Slice onion in very thin slices and put a layer of these over
mixture on bread.
ALMOND SANDWICHES
No. 1
1% cups almonds 3 tablespoons lemon-juice
l / 2 teaspoon salt
Chop the almonds fine, mix with the salt and lemon- juice
and use with thin slices of bread, buttered. Cut into small
ovals, pressing a blanched almond in the center of each sand-
wich.
No. 2
Use the same quantities as for No. 1. Toast the almonds a
light brown and grate them. Form into a paste with the lemon-
juice^ add the salt and spread over the bread.
No. 3
l /3 cup almonds % cup shredded celery
l /4 cup mayonnaise
Chop the almonds fine and mix them with the celery. Spread
between thin, buttered slices of bread. Sandwiches filled with
this mixture are an excellent accompaniment to salads or cold
meats. When served with meats the celery and almonds may
be moistened with a few spoonfuls of mayonnaise.
MARRON SANDWICHES
Grind marrons glaces (candied French chestnuts) fine,
spread on rounds of buttered bread and cover with rounds of
bread from which the centers have been cut. Fill the centers
with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, and decorate with
blanched and chopped pistachio nuts or tiny candied violets.
Sandwiches with Cheese or Egg Fillings
CHEESE SANDWICHES
No. 1
Place thin slices of American, Swiss or any preferred mild or
snappy cheese between two slices of buttered bread. Add a
dash of mustard if desired.
No. 2
Grate sapsago and Parmesan cheese and sprinkle thickly
over a slice of buttered bread. Then dust with a mild red
pepper and add another slice of buttered bread.
No. 3
Yolks of 3, hard-cooked eggs Paprika Salt
2 tablespoons salad oil 1 tablespoon vinegar
Mustard 1 cup grated cheese
Rub smooth the yolks of the hard-cooked eggs. Add the
oil, stirring it in very slowly with a fork, and mix thoroughly
with a little mustard, paprika, salt and the vinegar. Add the
grated cheese and use between thin buttered slices of white or
brown bread.
No. 4
l /z pound American full cream % cup cream
cheese, grated l / 2 teaspoon dry mustard
2 tablespoons melted butter Paprika Salt
Mix all the ingredients thoroughly and use between thin
buttered slices of bread. This filling will keep indefinitely in
closed jars in the refrigerator.
SANDWICHES 139
COTTAGE CHEESE SANDWICHES
1% cups cottage cheese l /2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons thick cream
Cut slices of brown bread one-half inch thick, not removing
the crusts. Rub the cheese to a smooth paste, and add slowly,
beating all the while, the melted butter, the salt and the thick
cream. Spread each slice of bread thickly with this mixture.
Cover with a very thin slice of white bread and on top of this
put a thin layer of the cheese mixture. Cover with a slice of
brown bread and trim into shape.
CHEESE AND ANCHOVY SANDWICHES
1 cup cream cheese or % cup anchovy paste
10 tablespoons grated Par- Pinch of mustard (may be
mesan cheese omitted)
Mix the anchovy paste with the cheese and add mustard if
desired. Spread between slices of buttered bread or toast.
CHEESE AND BANANA SANDWICHES
No. 1
1 cup cream cheese 2 bananas
l /4 cup cream % cup mayonnaise
Place ice-cold bananas, sliced and covered with mayonnaise,
between buttered slices of white bread spread with cream
cheese softened with the cream.
No. 2
Make a pulp of the bananas and mix with the softened cheese.
HARLEQUIN SANDWICHES WITH CHEESE
FILLING
Cut half-inch slices of both brown and white bread. Spread
each slice with butter and cream cheese and place four slices
together, alternating the brown bread with the white. Press
together and slice through the four layers, cutting them into as
thin slices as possible without allowing the slices to break.
When neatly done, the effect of the alternate layers of dark
and light is very good.
FOR THE PIRATE'S TREASURE
CHEST RETURN THIN SAND-
WICHES TO THE LOAF FROM
WHICH THEY CAME OR SLICE
YOUR LOAF LATERALLY, FILL
WITH VARIOUS PASTES AND
FROST WITH CREAM CHEESE
TO YOUR TASTE
CHOICE OF
.INGS AND BREADS
ATTRACTIVE SAND-
WICHES ARE A MATfl|
OF DESIGN
:
FILL CREVICES AND SPREAD SUR-
FACE OF THIS LOAF WITH CHEESE
AND BUTTER PASTE. THEN TOAST
TO GOLDEN BROWN
I [
140
CHEESE AND ORANGE MARMALADE
SANDWICHES
l /2 cup cream cheese l /z cup orange marmalade
J4 cup cream
Spread half the slices of buttered bread with the cheese,
softened with the cream, and seasoned with salt if desired,
and spread the other slices with orange marmalade. Press the
slices together.
CHEESE COMBINATION SANDWICHES
1 cup cream cheese or cottage % cup chopped olives or
cheese l / 4 cup chopped nuts or
l / 4 cup mayonnaise or l / 4 cup chopped pimientos
Mix the cheese with the mayonnaise, chopped olives, nuts, or
pimientos, and use between very thin slices of brown or rye
bread, lightly buttered.
CHEESE AND ONION SANDWICHES
1 cup cream cheese Lettuce leaves
l /4 cup chopped Bermuda % cup mayonnaise
onion
Mix the cheese with the onion. Use with mayonnaise and a
crisp lettuce leaf between slices of buttered bread.
ROQUEFORT CHEESE SANDWICHES
l / 2 cup Roquefort cheese 2 tablespoons butter
Salad oil Whole-wheat bread
To the cheese, add creamed butter and enough salad oil to
make a paste. Use a thin layer between buttered slices of
whole-wheat bread.
CHEESE MAYONNAISE SANDWICHES
2 hard-cooked egg-yolks l / 2 teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon melted butter l /z teaspoon mustard
l /$ pound cheese 1 tablespoon vinegar
l /2 teaspoon salt
Rub the egg-yolks and butter together until they make a
smooth paste, then add the grated cheese, salt, pepper and
SANDWICHES 141
mustard, mixing thoroughly. Stir in the vinegar and spread
between buttered slices of bread, crackers or pieces of oat-cake.
RUSSIAN SANDWICHES
l /2 cup cream cheese % cup chopped pimiento
1/4 cup chopped olives % cup mayonnaise
Lettuce leaves Boston brown bread
Spread the cream cheese on thin slices of Boston brown bread.
Spread an equal number of buttered slices with chopped olives
and pimientos mixed with mayonnaise dressing. Press together
in pairs with a crisp lettuce leaf between.
EGG SANDWICHES
No. 1
Hard-cooked eggs Salt Paprika
Pepper Capers or pickles if desired
Slice the eggs and lay the slices between thin buttered slices
of bread. Season to taste with salt, pepper and paprika and
add a layer of chopped capers or pickles if desired. These are
good for lunches for traveling or picnics.
No. 2
1 cup chopped, hard-cooked Chopped capers or pickles
egg l / 4 cup mayonnaise
Mix the chopped egg with the mayonnaise and add salt,
pepper and chopped pickles or capers to taste. Use between
thin buttered slices of bread.
Sandwiches with Meat and Poultry Fillings
CHICKEN SANDWICHES
No. 1
1 cup cooked chicken me?t, l / 4 cup mayonnaise
white or dark
Chop the chicken meat very fine, mix with the mayonnaise,
and spread thin slices of bread, buttered or unbuttered, with
the paste.
142
No. 2
2 egg-yolks 1 cup minced, cooked chicken
1 teaspoon melted butter Salt Pepper
1 teaspoon lemon-juice 1 teaspoon stock
Cook the eggs thirty to forty-five minutes, in water just be-
low boiling-point, take out the yolks, and mash as fine as pos-
sible. Add to these the melted butter and lemon- juice, the
minced chicken, salt, pepper and stock. Mix all well together.
A paste will be the result and with this very delicate sandwiches
may be made.
No. 3
1 cup cooked white meat of 6 tablespoons thick cream
chicken l /z teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon gelatin Dash of paprika
1 tablespoon cold water
Chop the chicken very fine and pound to a paste, adding salt
and a dash of red pepper. Soak the gelatin in the cold water
for fifteen minutes, and add the thick cream. Dissolve the
gelatin over boiling water, beat it slowly into the chicken
and add salt and paprika. Set aside to cool, smoothing into an
even mass. When cool, divide into squares, cut these squares
into very thin slices and arrange on thin buttered slices of bread.
Cut into fancy shapes, removing the crusts.
No. 4
3 /4 cup cooked chicken meat Y 4 cup chopped almonds
l / 4 cup chopped stuffed olives % cup mayonnaise
Cut the chicken meat into small bits and add the almonds and
olives. Moisten with mayonnaise and spread on thin, buttered
slices of bread.
CHICKEN, HAM AND CELERY SANDWICHES
1 cup cooked chicken meat 54 CU P mayonnaise
Yz cup celery l / 4 cup cooked ham
1 tablespoon green pepper
Mince the chicken, ham, celery and green peppers. Mix
with the mayonnaise and spread on buttered bread.
SANDWICHES 143
CHICKEN AND DILL PICKLE SANDWICHES
Between buttered slices of white bread, use thin slices of
white meat of roasted chicken and thin slices of dill pickle.
Cut into triangles and serve on lettuce leaves.
CHICKEN LIVER SANDWICHES
1 cup cooked chicken livers 1 tablespoon lemon-juice
2 tablespoons chopped crisp 2 tablespoons sliced truffles
bacon 4 drops tabasco sauce
Salt Pepper 2 stalks celery, minced
Mash the chicken livers, add the chopped bacon, salt, pepper,
tabasco sauce, lemon-juice and sliced truffles. Use between
slices of bread spread with creamed butter mixed with minced
celery.
CHICKEN AND TONGUE SANDWICHES
1 pint minced cold boiled Black pepper
chicken and tongue, mixed 1 teaspoon Worcestershire
l /2 cup melted butter sauce
1 egg-yolk
To cold boiled tongue and chicken add the melted butter,
the yolk of the egg, beaten, a little black pepper, and the
Worcestershire sauce. Spread this over buttered bread.
PATE DE FOIE GRAS SANDWICHES
No. 1
Moisten pate de foie gras with cream to make a thin paste.
Spread on lettuce leaves on white buttered bread and sprinkle
with French dressing.
No. 2
1 tablespoon pate de foie gras 2 tablespoons butter
l /4 cup boiled chestnuts
Mash the butter and chestnuts to a paste, add the pate de foie
gras and mix well. Spread very thin on slices of buttered bread.
144
BEEF SANDWICHES
1 1 /4 cups cold roast beef l /z teaspoon Worcestershire
1 teaspoon salt sauce
l /2 tablespoon tomato catchup 1 tablespoon melted butter
To minced cold roast beef add the salt, tomato catchup,
Worcestershire sauce and melted butter. Spread on buttered
bread, cover with a second slice, and cut into fancy shapes.
HAM SANDWICHES
No. 1
Slice boiled ham very thin and use several tiny slices between
thin slices of buttered bread, adding a little mustard if desired.
No. 2
1 cup ham l /z teaspoon mustard mixed
1 tablespoon salad oil with l / 4 teaspoon water to
1 tablespoon lemon-juice a smooth paste
Pepper
Chop the ham fine and season with salad oil, lemon-juice,
a dash of pepper and the mustard. Spread between thin, but-
tered slices of bread.
No. 3
1 hard-cooked egg 1 cup boiled ham
1 small spiced cucumber % CU P mayonnaise
pickle
Chop the hard-cooked egg, cucumber pickle and boiled ham
and mix well. Moisten with the mayonnaise, season to taste,
and spread between thin slices of buttered bread.
HAM AND ANCHOVY SANDWICHES
\ l /4 cups chopped ham Few drops tabasco sauce
1 teaspoon onion-juice Anchovy paste
Paprika Creamed butter
Add to the chopped meat, onion-juice, paprika, a few drops
of tabasco sauce and a little anchovy paste mixed with creamed
butter. Use between thin, buttered slices of bread.
SANDWICHES 145
HAM AND TOMATO SANDWICHES
1 cup minced ham % cup butter
1 teaspoon parsley Garlic or onion-juice
Cayenne pepper 2 sliced tomatoes
Pinch of mace Mayonnaise
Few drops lemon- juice
To minced ham, add parsley, cayenne, mace, lemon-juice and
creamed butter. Rub the bowl with garlic or add a little onion-
juice. Spread rounds of buttered bread with the mixture and
between each two rounds place a thin slice of ripe tomato spread
with thick mayonnaise.
LIVER AND BACON SANDWICHES
l /z cup chopped bacon l /z cup mashed liver
l /4 cup cream Salt and pepper
Mix chopped bacon and mashed liver, season with pepper
and salt and mix with cream. Spread between slices of but-
tered bread. Decorate the plate with a border of lemon slices
and hard-cooked eggs cut into halves lengthwise, with a sprig
of cress or parsley on each half egg.
MUTTON OR LAMB SANDWICHES
1 1 / 4 cups cold mutton or lamb 1 teaspoon chopped mint
1 teaspoon salt Dash of pepper
1 tablespoon capers 1 tablespoon lemon-juice
Chop cold mutton or lamb very fine, add salt, capers, chopped
mint, pepper and lemon- juice. Use between thin buttered
slices of whole-wheat bread. Serve on a bed of lettuce leaves.
TONGUE SANDWICHES
l /z pound cooked tongue Salt
l /4 cup mayonnaise or prepared Pepper
mustard Cayenne
Chop the tongue and pound to a paste, or cut into thin
slices and use, with the mayonnaise and seasonings, between thin
buttered slices of bread.
146
VEAL SANDWICHES
l l /4 cups chopped veal 1 tablespoon lemon-juice
1 teaspoon salt Mustard Pepper
Chop the veal, and season with salt, lemon-juice and a little
pepper and mustard. Spread mixture between thin buttered
slices of bread.
Sandwiches with Fish Fillings
Anchovies, sardines, or freshly boiled fish may be used for
sandwiches. These are better pounded to a paste, with a few
drops of lemon- juice added during the pounding. Fresh white
fish, like cod, may be seasoned with salt and pepper, moistened
with a little mayonnaise or even a plain white sauce, and then
put between two layers of buttered bread.
FLAKED FISH SANDWICHES
1 cup flaked fish 54 CU P thick mayonnaise
2 tablespoons chopped celery 1 tablespoon Worcestershire
2 tablespoons chopped cucum- sauce or catchup, if desired
ber pickles, either sweet or Salt
sour Pepper
Delicious and appetizing sandwich fillings are made by mix-
ing these ingredients. Season to taste with salt and pepper
and spread between thin buttered slices of bread.
ANCHOVY AND OLIVE SANDWICHES
l /2 cup mashed anchovies or l /z cup olives
anchovy paste % cup cream or butter
Chop the olives and mix with the anchovy paste. Add the
butter or cream and use between thin buttered slices of bread.
CAVIAR SANDWICHES
l /2 cup caviar 2 teaspoons lemon-juice
Flavor caviar with lemon-juice and spread thin on lightly
buttered bread. A small quantity of chopped pickled beets may
be added if desired.
SANDWICHES 147
CRAB OR LOBSTER SANDWICHES
l l /4 cups crab or lobster l / 4 cup French dressing or
meat mayonnaise
Butter thin slices of whole-wheat bread. Cover half of them
thickly with flaked boiled crab meat or diced lobster meat and
add a teaspoon of French dressing or mayonnaise. Cover with
the other buttered slices of bread and cut into fancy shapes.
OYSTER SANDWICHES
Large oysters Pepper
Salt Tabasco sauce
Horseradish Lemon-juice
Worcestershire sauce Cress
Fry the oysters and place two or three between two buttered
slices of brown or white bread. Sprinkle with pepper, salt,
horseradish, lemon-juice, tabasco, Worcestershire or water cress,
according to taste.
SALMON SANDWICHES
1 cup cold boiled or canned % cup mayonnaise
salmon
Mix the salmon with the mayonnaise until a fine even mix-
ture is obtained. Remove the soft crumb from French rolls and
fill the space thus made with the salmon mixture.
SARDINE SANDWICHES
12 large sardines % cup mayonnaise or a little
1 hard-cooked egg Worcestershire sauce, if de-
Pepper desired
Lemon-juice Salt
Shrimp butter, i desired Creamed butter, if desired
Drain the oil from the fish, remove the skins and pound the
fish to a paste with a little salt, pepper and lemon- juice. Use
between thin buttered slices of bread. Shrimp butter may be
mixed with the sardine paste and the flavor may be varied by
the addition of Worcestershire sauce or mayonnaise or both.
148
^xvyvy
The mashed yolk of the hard-cooked egg and three parts of
creamed butter to one of the sardine mixture makes a de-
licious sandwich filling.
SHAD ROE SANDWICHES
1 shad roe 3 drops tabasco sauce
Yolks of 3 hard-cooked eggs 1 teaspoon anchovy paste
Butter Salt
l /2 teaspoon paprika
Cook the roe and mash it together with the yolks of the
hard-cooked eggs. Add an equal amount of creamed butter,
the paprika, tabasco sauce, anchovy paste, and salt to taste.
Spread between thin buttered slices of bread. Slices of lemon,
peeled and salted, may be put between rounds of buttered bread
and passed with the shad roe sandwiches.
Sandwiches with Vegetable Fillings
CUCUMBER SANDWICHES
No. 1
Soak thin slices of cucumber for one hour in good white
vinegar seasoned with salt and pepper. Add one teaspoon of
chopped chives, if desired. Drain the slices and use them
between thin, buttered slices of brown or white bread. Each
sandwich may be the size of a cucumber slice, if daintiness is
desired.
No. 2
Chop a peeled cucumber and mix with mayonnaise. Use
between thin buttered slices of brown or white bread.
ONION SANDWICHES
Pour salted water over thin slices of onion (or chopped
onion) and let it stand for a time to extract the very strong
flavor. Then drain the onion and use between buttered slices
of bread, seasoning with pepper, salt, and a little mustard if
desired.
SANDWICHES 149
PIMIENTO AND ANCHOVY SANDWICHES
% cup pimiento 1 tablespoon lemon-juice
Butter % cup anchovy paste
l /2 teaspoon tabasco sauce Salt
Rub pimientos to a paste with creamed butter and season
with tabasco sauce, lemon- juice, anchovy paste and salt. Spread
between thin buttered slices of whole-wheat bread.
RADISH AND HAM SANDWICHES
5/2 cup potted ham l / 2 cup sliced radishes
l /4 to l /2 cup mayonnaise
Peel and slice radishes, dip them in rich, thick mayonnaise^
and lay on thin slices of bread covered with potted ham.
TOMATO AND LETTUCE SANDWICHES
4 tomatoes Lettuce leaves l / 4 to l / 2 cup mayonnaise
Spread thin slices of buttered bread with mayonnaise, cover
with a crisp lettuce leaf and spread with peeled, chilled toma-
toes sliced thin. Cover with a second slice of bread, and cut
into desired shape. Crisp bacon is a pleasing addition.
WATERCRESS SANDWICHES
1 1 /4 cups cress 2 tablespoons lemon-juice or
Paprika y 4 cup mayonnaise
Sprinkle cress with salt, paprika, and lemon-juice, or mix
with mayonnaise. Lay between slices of brown bread.
THE PIE CANAPE
An attractive canape plate may be made by cutting twice
horizontally, through a round loaf of rye bread. The slice
should be % inch thick and free of crust. Spread with soft-
ened butter and mayonnaise dressing. Mark in circles as guides
with increasingly larger articles a small cookie cutter at
center, a large cutter, a bowl, a small plate, and decorate in
150
N^X^^X
concentric rings. Fill the center with caviar, piling chopped
parsley or egg yellow at very center. Surround with circle of
cream cheese tinted with vegetable coloring pressed from a
pastry bag. Continue these rings of appetizer paste and
colored cream cheese in accordance with your taste or color
scheme. Use red salmon paste, sardellen paste, anchovy paste,
shrimp paste, etc. When finished, use a very sharp knife to
cut like a pie but do not separate. Serve cold within a few
hours.
SANDWICH LOAF OR CAKE
Slice an uncut loaf of day-old white sandwich bread hori-
zontally, getting 3 or 4 long slices % inch thick. Spread
each slice with creamed butter and stiff mayonnaise, then each
with a different chopped salad or sandwich mixture. Chicken,
shrimp, salmon or tongue salad; deviled egg, sardine, anchovy,
liver or cheese pastes may be used. Stack and cover the top
and sides with soft cream cheese piled like frosting or whipped
cream. Dust with paprika or chopped parsley. Chill and serve
cold within 7 to 10 hours. Photograph on page 139A.
Miscellaneous Sandwiches and Sandwich Fillings
1. Raisins worked into cream cheese.
2. Chopped raisins, figs, dates or prunes, mixed with chopped
nut-meats and moistened with mayonnaise dressing or lemon-
juice.
3. The well- whipped white of an egg mixed with a cup each
of chopped raisins and nut-meats, seasoned with a little salt.
4. Peanut butter moistened with salad dressing and mixed
with raisins, dates, figs or bananas.
5. Equal parts olives, peanut butter, celery, mixed with a
little salad dressing.
6. Peanut butter mixed with chopped dill, sweet or sour
pickles.
7. Cream cheese and chopped stuffed olives.
8. Chopped stuffed olives and chopped nuts, moistened with
salad dressing.
9. Cream cheese and crushed pineapple between very thin
slices of bread.
SANDWICHES 151
10. Tunafish mixed with parsley, lemon-juice, seasoning and
a bit of onion.
11. Cream cheese and chopped nuts.
12. Ground boiled ham and chopped pickles or chopped
peanuts.
13. Cottage cheese and pickles, olives, nuts or pimientos.
14. Currant jam with pounded walnut meats and creamed
butter. Pass with cream cheese. Preserved currants may be
substituted in this combination.
15. Boston brown bread with cream cheese or mayonnaise
mixed with chopped nuts and raisins.
16. Rounds of brown bread spread with chopped olives,
minced lettuce and water cress, tarragon, paprika, parsley and
chives mixed with mayonnaise.
17. Pimientos, cucumbers and onion or chives, minced,
mixed with mayonnaise and spread on buttered entire-wheat
bread.
18. Green pepper, pimiento and olives with mayonnaise.
19. Boston brown bread with minced corned beef seasoned
with mustard and rubbed to a paste.
20. Cream cheese used with chopped parsley, pimientos and
mayonnaise, chopped nuts, sliced sugared bananas, crushed
pineapple, chopped or sliced olives, shredded sliced apples. The
cheese may be rubbed with butter or the creamed butter may
be spread on the bread.
HOT SANDWICHES
The hot sandwich is now frequently used as a supper or
luncheon dish with a salad. It is sometimes served as a break-
fast dish and even a dessert may now be served in sandwich
form, as, for instance, slices of ice-cream between slices of
sponge cake.
There are several types of hot sandwiches. Some are made
from plain bread and served with hot sauce; in others the
framework of the sandwich is toast, sauted slices of bread,
French-fried toast or fresh slices of bread baked with the sand-
wich-filling; and in still others hot baking-powder biscuit or
crisp toasted crackers are used.
Then besides the regulation kind of sandwich a filling be-
tween two slices of breadstuff there is the open-faced kind,
in which the top slice is left off and a garnish of cut parsley,
152
v^/v^
pickle, olive or grated cheese is used instead of the covering
slice.
And, lastly, there is a third and novel type of sandwich in
which the outer structure is of meat. This is cut in thin slices,
dipped in fritter batter and fried in fat, and a filling of vege-
tables is placed between the slices.
GRILLED CHEESE SANDWICHES
Between two slices of medium thick bread, lay slices of cheese
cut about one-eighth inch thick. Place in oven until cheese
begins to melt. Then toast on both sides and serve hot. Or
mash a soft cheddar cheese with cream. Spread this as a filling
and toast the sandwich.
CHICKEN CLUB SANDWICHES
(For each sandwich)
3 slices toast Crisped bacon
Mayonnaise Tomato slices or
Ys to l / 4 breast of chicken onion slices
Lettuce Pickle or olives
For each sandwich remove the crust from three slices of
toasted bread, buttered while hot. Spread the under slice with
a thin layer of mayonnaise dressing. On this lay two small
white lettuce leaves, allowing them to project beyond the edge
of the toast. On the lettuce lay thin slices of breast of chicken
spread with mayonnaise. Cover with a slice of toast, spread
with mayonnaise and cover with slices of crisp bacon. A slice
of tomato or onion may be placed over the bacon. Place the
third slice of toast on this and garnish with pickles or olives.
Serve while the toast and bacon are hot.
GRILLED TONGUE AND EGG SANDWICHES
1 cup chopped tongue 1 cup milk
1 egg 2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 teaspoon onion- juice dressing
Mix the tongue with the onion- juice and the mayonnaise and
spread it on thin slices of unbuttered bread. Press the slices
together and cut in two diagonally. Beat the egg, add the milk
and dip the sandwiches in this mixture. Brown them in a small
amount of butter, first on one side and then on the other.
Garnish with parsley and serve at once on a hot platter.
SANDWICHES 153
COUNTRY CLUB SANDWICHES
Butter slices of toast. On each slice lay thin cuts of cooked
sausage. Cover with a well-seasoned tomato sauce and sprinkle
with grated cheese. Lay a strip of bacon on each sandwich and
bake in a hot oven until the bacon is crisp.
TURKISH SANDWICHES
1 cup cooked chicken cut in % CU P cream
small pieces 1 teaspoon onion-juice
1 tablespoon butter *4 CU P walnut meats
l /2 cup stock Paprika Salt
1 tablespoon flour Thin slices of toasted bread
Make a sauce of the stock, cream, flour, and butter. Add the
other ingredients, and heat thoroughly. Place on slices of toast.
Brush with melted butter and garnish with thin rings cut from
stuffed olives. Serve immediately on a hot platter.
HAM SWEET SANDWICHES
For each sandwich allow two medium-thin slices of cold
boiled ham. Lay the ham in French dressing for a few minutes.
Drain and dip in a plain fritter batter. Fry in deep fat and
drain on soft paper. Place one of the slices of ham on a hot
plate, add lettuce and cover with another slice of the fried
ham. Pour orange-raisin sauce over the sandwich and serve
at once.
HOT BISCUIT SANDWICH
Make plain baking-powder biscuits. Bake until the crust is
crisp on both top and bottom. Break do not cut the biscuits
apart and butter the halves. On one side place a thick slice
of tomato, then a layer of mayonnaise dressing and then one of
minced bacon. Cover with the other half of the biscuit, press
lightly together and serve at once.
SAVORY SANDWICHES
Spread slices of whole-wheat or graham toast with butter.
Over these place slices of crisply cooked bacon. Sprinkle
generously with chopped pickle and horseradish. Serve with
sliced tomatoes.
154
SARDINE AND TOAST SANDWICHES
1 cup sardines Mayonnaise
Lettuce Lemon-juice
Onion-juice Graham bread
Sardines that have been prepared in oil are to be preferred
for these sandwiches. Drain the sardines, tear them in pieces,
add a few drops of lemon-juice, onion-juice and enough mayon-
naise to moisten. Toast medium-thin slices of graham bread
and spread with butter creamed with a few drops of lemon-
juice. Cover with lettuce and add the sardines and another
slice of toast. Serve with a garnish of lemon.
CHEESE AND TOMATO SANDWICHES
6 slices bread 6 slices bacon
6 slices tomato Grated cheese
Butter the slices of bread. On each slice, place a slice of to-
mato, cover with grated cheese, and add a slice of bacon. Toast
under the flame of a broiler until the bacon is crisp.
HAM OR BACON AND CHEESE SANDWICHES
Butter slices of toasted bread. Cover with a thin slice of
boiled ham or bacon, spread with mustard, and cover with a
layer of thinly sliced or grated cheese. Place the slices in the
oven until the cheese is melted. Garnish with minced parsley
and serve at once.
PEANUT AND CHILI SANDWICHES
Mix peanut butter with chili sauce to form a paste. Spread
slices of hot brown bread or toasted graham bread with butter,
add the mixture and put the slices together with crisp lettuce
leaves between. Garnish with slices of dill pickle.
DEVILED TOMATO SANDWICHES
6 tomatoes Pepper
1 cup bread crumbs 1 cup ground boiled ham
4 slices bacon 1 tablespoon French mustard
Salt 6 slices bread
Cut a slice from the stem end of each tomato. Sprinkle with
salt, pepper and bits of bacon. Bake until the tomatoes are
SANDWICHES 155
tender. Serve on slices of hot buttered toast spread with the
ground ham mixed with the mustard.
Suggestions for Breakfast Sandwiches
Poached egg on toast is an open-faced sandwich. Rolls split,
toasted, and buttered, with broiled tender bacon placed between
them, or bacon between crisply toasted slices of well buttered
corn bread are other forms of breakfast sandwiches.
Creamed oysters on toast, scrambled eggs on buttered toast
spread with anchovy paste, creamed codfish between two slices
of buttered toast are all in the breakfast category of sandwiches.
To make a variation of French toast that takes it out of the
sweet and puts it into the meat class, spread buttered slices of
bread with deviled ham, put the slices together in twos, dip them
into a mixture of egg and milk in proportion of two eggs to one
cup of milk, and then saute the slices in butter until they are
nicely brown on both sides.
Old fashioned country sausage may be cut in thin rounds,
fried a delicate brown and served between hot, savory pancakes
of the same size as the sausage slices.
Suggestions for Hot Sandwiches
Hot sandwiches should be substantial and filling without
losing the chief characteristic of all sandwiches ease in han-
dling. For this reason rolls and buns are often more satisfactory
than sliced bread or toast.
Broiled Hamburger steaks on round rolls are always popular.
The meat mixture may be varied by rolling a stuffed olive in
each; by adding strips of bacon crosswise after the first turning,
or by a slice of Bermuda onion on both sides. Chopped pickles,
carrots, celery or radishes may be added to the meat before
broiling.
1. Broiled pineapple with sliced hot chicken, hot turkey or
hot duck, on whole wheat bread. 2. Broiled ham with a slice o
pineapple, either fresh or canned, served on white toast. 3 . Sliced
roast lamb with grilled fresh pineapple on toasted English muf-
fins. 4. Sliced hard-cooked egg with hot anchovy sauce on Bos-
ton brown bread. 5. Hot roast veal with anchovy sauce and
grilled tomato on rye roll. 6. Grilled tomato with Cheddar cheese
on rye toast. 7. Hot smoked tongue with fried apples on toasted
English muffins. 8. Hot corned beef with grilled sweet potato
and endive on finger rolls.
TOAST
BREAD for toast should be cut in slices from one -eighth
to one-half inch thick and toasted over a clear fire or in
a gas or electric toaster until both sides are an even, rich golden
brown. Unless a toaster with an automatic timing and turning
device is used, the slices should be turned two or three times
to avoid warping.
CRISP DRY TOAST
Cut the crust from stale bread. Slice the bread as thin as
a wafer, dry it on a pan lined with paper, in the oven, leaving
the door open. When it is entirely dry, close the oven door
and brown slightly.
TOAST MELBA
Cut bread in one-eighth-inch slices and toast until it is crisp.
BUTTERED TOAST
Toast bread until crisp and a rich brown on both sides. But-
ter while hot and serve at once.
WATER TOAST
Toast bread until crisp and brown. Pour into a soup-plate
one cup boiling water and one teaspoon salt. Dip the toast
into this water and remove at once. Spread lightly with butter
and serve immediately.
MILK TOAST
No. 1
Toast bread, butter it well, sprinkle with salt and pour scalded
milk over it.
No. 2
6 slices buttered toast 2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour 2 cups milk
Salt
Make a white sauce of the flour, butter, milk and salt and
pour it over the buttered toast.
156
TOAST 157
CREAM TOAST
6 slices buttered toast 1 cup scalded cream
1 tablespoon flour Salt
1 cup scalded milk 1 egg
Make a white sauce of the milk, cream, flour and salt. Pour
this hot liquid over the beaten egg. Pour over the toast and
serve immediately.
TOMATO CREAM TOAST
6 slices buttered toast 2 tablespoons butter
1 cup milk Salt
2 tablespoons flour 1 cup tomato, fresh or
% teaspoon soda canned
Make a white sauce of the milk, flour, butter and salt. Cook
and strain the tomato and add the soda. Stir the hot tomato
into the white sauce and pour immediately over the toast.
FRIED TOAST OR FRENCH TOAST
12 slices bread l /2 inch thick l /2 teaspoon salt
3 eggs 2 cups milk
Beat the eggs, add the milk and salt. Dip slices of bread into
the mixture and saute in a little hot fat until a delicate brown
on both sides. Serve hot. Sprinkle with powdered sugar or
serve maple sirup with the toast.
CINNAMON TOAST
Spread hot toast with butter and sprinkle generously with a
mixture of sugar and cinnamon. Place on the top shelf of the
oven or under the broiler just long enough to melt the sugar.
TOASTED LOAF AND CORNUCOPIA
Remove all but the bottom crust from loaf of bread. Cut
through center, lengthwise, then into equal sections crosswise.
Brush with melted butter and brown in 375 oven.
CORNUCOPIA Remove crusts from sliced bread, lay thick
cheese strip diagonally, fold bread to opposite corners, fasten
with toothpick, brush with melted butter and brown in mod-
erate oven (350 F.). Remove toothpicks to serve.
TOAST YOUR WHOLE LOAF IN
THIS FASHION AND USE THE
CRUST FOR AN ENTREE TREAS-
URE CHEST A
Wheat Flour Institute
>:;..;,,:,,;
USE THE SAME SANDWICH DE-
SIGNS FOR TOAST, OR ROIL 4.
^RNUCOPIA WITH A CHEE||,
NCUE FOR THE FESBW
CASION
Wheat Flour Institute
APPETIZERS
OTRICT convention in England and America at one time
^ decreed that the formal dinner should begin with soup,
but that custom is no longer binding even in the most formal
household. Other dishes to introduce the meal have crept in
and because of their savory qualities have found ready and
general acceptance. Appetizers, they are usually called. Some-
times they are referred to as relishes or as hors d'ceuvres, because
they are often a glorified edition of the old side dish now given
a conspicuous place as a separate course by itself.
Characteristics of the Appetizer
The appetizer must have distinct, piquant flavor and appetite-
whetting qualities. Pickled and salted foods, acids, pepper and
paprika play a conspicuous part in their manufacture. Raw
oysters and clams, grapefruit, melons and fruit cocktails,
canapes and small sandwiches spread with pastes of sardines,
anchovies and caviar, lobster and crabmeat, pate de foie gras,
cheese, olives and other mixtures of high flavor, deviled eggs,
small succulent salads, may all be included without prejudice
in the list of appetizers. In parts of the United States, the
dinner is always begun with the salad as the appetizer.
Serving the Appetizer
The appetizer should always be served in small portions be-
cause the purpose of this course is to whet but not to satisfy
the appetite.
At formal dinners and luncheons, the same kind of appetizer
is generally served to all the guests, but at more informal meals
the hostess may give her guests an opportunity to choose their
own appetizers. In that case a number of portions of various
kinds are arranged on a regulation hors d'oeuvre tray or on a
chop plate or small platter which is passed to each guest.
Each portion must be arranged so that it may be lifted from
the tray by the guest and transferred to his plate without
trouble. Suitable service silver usually a tablespoon and large
must be laid on each tray.
158
APPETIZERS 159
The following combination will serve as a suggestion for the
arrangement of a tray:
1. A crab salad. 2. An onion and green pepper salad. 3. Three or
four olives on a small lettuce leaf. 4. A sandwich made of cress and
brown bread and butter. 5. An oblong or square of aspic jelly on a
lettuce leaf with an anchovy or sardine on the jelly. 6. Half of a,
deviled egg on a lettuce leaf or in a bed of cress. 7. Cream cheese balls
rolled in chopped chipped beef. 8. Cream cheese balls rolled in caviar.
9. Large stuffed olives filled with sharp cheese, wrapped in bacon and
broiled until bacon is crisp. 10. Center celery stalks stuffed with Roque-
fort cheese paste or anchovy paste. 11. Small sweet pickles rolled in
cream cheese then in a strip of smoked salmon, fastened with toothpick.
12. Rolled anchovies in broiled mushrooms. 13- Caviar in broiled
mushrooms. 14. Tiny meat balls in broiled mushrooms. 15. Chicken
liver balls rolled in chopped chipped beef.
Shell Fish
Oysters or clams on the half-shell, oyster, clam, lobster or
crab cocktails may be used as the appetizer. The recipes are
given in the chapter on "Fish."
Canapes
PREPARED BREAD FOR ALL CANAPES
Canapes are made from stale white bread, cut in quarter-
inch slices and then shaped with a cutter into circles two and
one-half or three inches in diameter or cut into squares, strips,
triangles or other fancy shapes. These portions of bread may
then be fried in deep fat and drained on absorbent paper, or
sauted in just enough fat to keep them from burning, or toasted
or set in the oven until they turn a delicate brown. When
finished they should be nicely browned on both sides. They are
then ready to be covered with the mixture preferred.
ANCHOVY CANAPES
6 portions prepared bread 3 teaspoons lemon-juice
3 tablespoons anchovy paste 2 hard-cooked eggs
Whole anchovies for garnish (may be omitted)
Anchovy paste, which comes in tubes, jars or bottles, may
be utilized, or whole anchovies may be reduced to a smooth
i6o
*v^v^v^
paste with a wooden spoon. Season with lemon- juice and
spread the paste on the prepared pieces of bread. Split anchovy
lengthwise and lay the halves diagonally across the canape, mark-
ing the point where they cross by a little pyramid of riced yolk
of hard-cooked eggs. Petal-shaped pieces of the hard-cooked
white may radiate from this center pyramid. A large anchovy
curved around a circle of hard-cooked egg in the center of a
canape is also effective. The anchovies may be omitted from
the garnish.
SARDINE OR LOBSTER OR OTHER SEA FOOD
CANAPES
6 portions prepared bread Salt
6 large sardines or Worcestershire sauce
6 tablespoons lobster or other Pickled beets
sea food, chopped fine 6 large olives
Juice of 1 lemon 24 thin slices lemon
Remove skin and backbone and flake the sardines with a fork.
Or chop cooked lobster meat very fine. Season with lemon-
juice, salt and a few drops of Worcestershire sauce. Spread
the prepared bread with the mixture and decorate by placing
in the center of each canape a small circle of pickled beet. Cut
a slice from the end of a large olive so that it will stand firmly
and place this in the center of the beet. A narrow border of
minced beet may be placed around the edge of the canape
with good effect. Garnish the plate with four thin slices of
lemon placed symmetrically.
Crab meat, shrimps or any smoked or canned fish, highly
seasoned and attractively garnished, may be utilized for canapes
instead of the sardines or lobster meat.
CAVIAR CANAPES
6 portions prepared bread 3 tablespoons white onion
3 tablespoons caviar chopped fine
Garnish of green pepper or hard-cooked egg
Caviar, which is the salted roe of the sturgeon, is highly
esteemed by epicures as an appetizer. It is usually served with
minced raw onion and decorated with hard-cooked egg and
minced pickles. A favorite arrangement is to have an oblong
canape two by four inches, one half covered with the minced
APPETIZERS 161
raw onion and the other half with the caviar. The striking
difference in the colors is very effective. A sliver of green pep-
per may lie just where the two mixtures meet and little points
of the green pepper extend out on each side, or a circle of the
white of hard-cooked egg may decorate the center of the half
covered with caviar and a little mound of the riced yolk orna-
ment the section covered by the chopped onion.
CHEESE AND OLIVE CANAPES
6 portions prepared bread Garnish of red pepper or
3 tablespoons cream cheese pickled beet
Olives stuffed with pimientos
Spread on the prepared bread a paste made by mixing equal
proportions of cream cheese and chopped stuffed olives. Garnish
with a quarter-inch border of the chopped olives and a star of
red pepper or pickled beet in the center of each canape.
PATE DE FOIE GRAS CANAPES
6 portions prepared bread % CU P cream
3 tablespoons pate de foie Cayenne pepper
gras paste or imitation pate Salt
de foie gras Parsley
Add the cream and seasoning to the paste. Rub through a
fine sieve and spread on portions of fried bread. Garnish with
parsley.
IMITATION PATE DE FOIE GRAS
l /2 cup chicken livers l / 4 onion, 'chopped
2 tablespoons chicken fat or Salt and pepper
butter Mustard or celery salt
Carefully clean, cook and chop chicken livers and mash them
to a paste with a wooden spoon. Chop the onion fine and fry
in the fat till yellowed. Place the livers, the fat and the onion
in a cup, mix well and season with pepper and salt, and either
mustard or celery salt, according to taste. Place at once on ice.
This preparation makes excellent sandwiches.
162
Suggestions for Mixtures to Be Used in Making
Canapes
1. Anchovy paste mixed with lemon -juice.
2. Shredded tuna fish mixed with lemon- juice and mayon-
naise.
3. Chopped lobster meat mixed with cream and seasoned
with salt, pepper and lemon-juice.
4. Cream cheese and chopped stuffed olives.
5. Minced red and green peppers mixed with mayonnaise
and seasoned with salt, pepper and lemon-juice.
6. Sardine paste mixed with lemon- juice, salt and Worcester-
shire sauce.
7. A layer of anchovy paste covered with a paste of shredded
crab meat, cream cheese and butter, seasoned with salt and
pepper.
8. Devilled ham mixed with chopped hard-cooked egg and
horseradish.
Fruit Appetizers
Fruit cocktails may be made from mixtures of almost any
fruits, canned or fresh. As a rule, combinations of a sweet
and a sour fruit are most piquant in flavor. All fruit appetizers
should be thoroughly chilled. The trays of the mechanical
refrigerator are excellent for this purpose.
GRAPEFRUIT COCKTAILS
No. 1 GRAPEFRUIT ON THE HALF SHELL.
Cut grapefruit in half, crosswise. With a pair of sharp
shears or with a grapefruit corer, cut a circular piece from the
center of each half, being careful not to cut through the skin.
Then with a sharp knife loosen each section from the mem-
brane and skin. Sprinkle with sugar and set in the refrigerator
to chill. Pink the edges of the skin if you prefer, and remove
the pieces of membrane between the sections of fruit if you
have time. In this way the shell is left with only edible portions
of the fruit. In any case each mouthful of fruit should be en-
tirely detached from the shell. Serve a half grapefruit on a
plate or in a special grapefruit glass, embedded in ice.
APPETIZERS 163
No. 2 GRAPEFRUIT AND ORANGE COCKTAIL.
1 cup diced grapefruit pulp Sugar
1 cup diced orange pulp Lemon-juice or grape-juice
Maraschino cherries or preserved pineapple
Mix the orange and grapefruit pulp. Sprinkle with sugar
and a little lemon-juice or grape-juice. Chill, and have glasses
chilled so that the whole, when served, may be very cold. At
the last moment fill the glasses with the fruit mixture, garnish-
ing with cherries or preserved pineapple.
No. 3 GRAPEFRUIT AND STRAWBERRY COCKTAIL.
3 grapefruit 1 pint strawberries
Sugar
Cut the grapefruit in half and carefully remove the pulp,
leaving the inner white skin as lining. Place the shells in cold
water to keep them firm. Mix the grapefruit pulp with the
strawberries and sprinkle with sugar. Chill. At serving time,
fill the shells with the mixture placing large handsome berries
on top as garnish. The mixed fruit left over may be served
at breakfast or used as a sauce for pudding or ice-cream.
STRAWBERRY AND PINEAPPLE COCKTAIL
1 cup orange-juice Sugar
l /$ cup lemon-juice 1 cup strawberries
1 cup diced pineapple
Combine the orange- and lemon- juice sweetened to taste,
keeping the mixture rather tart. Chill. Wash and drain the
strawberries and hull them. At serving time cut the berries
in half (except six large ones), mix with the pineapple, place
in glasses and cover with the fruit- juice. One large, perfect
berry set on a tiny circle of pineapple may decorate the top
of each cocktail.
ORANGE MINT COCKTAIL
6 small, rather sour oranges 3 tablespoons lemon-juice or
Powdered sugar 3 tablespoons pineapple-juice
Fresh mint 2 tablespoons sugar
Separate the orange into sections and remove the thin skin
with a pair of scissors. Chill thoroughly, place in glasses,
sprinkle with powdered sugar and add the lemon -juice mixed
1 64
'^VXV^
with pineapple-juice or sugar. Sprinkle with chopped mint
and garnish with an upright sprig of mint in the center of the
glass.
WATERMELON COCKTAIL
2 cups watermelon balls Powdered sugar
Fresh mint 2 tablespoons lemon-juice
(Lemon- juice and sugar may be omitted)
With a vegetable-cutter prepare small balls of bright pink
watermelon. Sprinkle lightly with sugar and add lemon- juice.
Chill thoroughly. Fill glasses. Garnish with sprigs of fresh
mint. A pretty fancy is to moisten the edge of each cocktail
glass and invert in chopped mint before filling. This will leave
a line of green adhering to the edge of the glass. The glass may
be lined with sprigs of mint before the watermelon is put in.
CHERRY COCKTAIL
1 pound cherries 6 tablespoons strawberry- juice
l /2 cup chopped almonds 6 tablespoons powdered sugar
3 teaspoons lemon- juice
Pit the cherries, sprinkle with chopped almonds and pour
over them a sirup made by mixing strawberry- juice with
powdered sugar and lemon- juice. Chill and serve ice-cold in
cocktail glasses. Decorate the plate with two or three whole
cherries and a leaf or two.
MIXED FRUIT COCKTAIL
6 large oranges Juice of 1 lemon
1 banana Sugar
2 slices pineapple
Slice off the tops of the oranges and scoop out the inside,
being careful not to break the inside white skin of the orange-
peel. Put the orange cups into a bowl of ice-water. Cut in
small pieces the banana and pineapple, mix these with the
orange pulp cut in small pieces, add the lemon-juice, sweeten
to taste, and fill the orange shells. Set each one in a small bowl,
filled with crushed ice.
The mixed fruit pulp that remains after the orange skins
have been filled may be kept in the refrigerator and served as
sauce with ice-cream or used in any other way that circum-
stances suggest.
FOR THE HOSTESS WHO
WOULD DEVELOP A SPE-
CIALITE DE LA MAISON
THERE ARE BACON-
OLIVE-CHEESE, CREAM
CHEESE COATED IN
CHIPPED BEEF, OR THE
INDIVIDUAL CHECKER-
BOARD LOAF
SOUPS
OOUPS may be roughly divided into two groups. In the
^ first group belong the soups that are always made from
meat stock. These are the various modifications of brown
and white stocks, bouillons, consommes and broths. In the
second group belong the soups that may be made either with
or without meat stock. These are the various modifications of
cream soups, purees and bisques, of chowders and stews and of
vegetable soups.
The Value of Soup in the Dietary
The purpose of soup in the meal is two-fold ; first, to improve
digestion and stimulate appetite by introducing at the beginning
of the meal a highly flavored liquid food which increases the
flow of digestive juices; second, to increase the variety of nu-
trients in the meal, or even to furnish the main dish of the meal.
Stock soups are chiefly valuable for the first purpose. Cream
soups, purees, bisques, chowders and stews are more valuable
for the second purpose.
A heavy meal should begin with an unthickened stock soup;
a light meal may well begin with one of the cream variety.
Home Made and Ready to Use Soups
Not so long ago, all soups were made at home, and the stock
pot was kept on the stove day in and day out; but with the
gradual change from coal to gas and electricity as fuels, and
with the perfecting of modern commercial canning and con-
densing methods, the long slow process of stock making has
become less common in home kitchens.
However, in soup many valuable food materials that would
otherwise be thrown out may be saved for the nourishment
of the family, and some knowledge of the principles of soup
making is worth while for every housekeeper. A home made
soup which is lacking in strength or flavor may be easily im-
proved by the addition of a can of soup or some of the various
meat extracts obtainable.
165
i66
xv^
For the small family, the canned soups are almost indispen-
sable, and in the making of sauces and gravies, where only a
small amount of stock is required, a can of soup supplies the
required foundation at a minimum of trouble and expense.
Making Soup Stock
CUT MEAT IN SMALL PIECES and saw or crack bone. This
is done to increase the surface exposed to the action of hot
water.
BROWN FROM ONE-FOURTH TO ONE-HALF THE MEAT for
brown stocks and consommes. This gives added color and im-
proves flavor.
SOAK THE MEAT AND BONE IN COLD WATER for thirty
minutes or more before cooking. This helps to extract the
juices of the meat.
HEAT GRADUALLY TO THE SIMMERING-POINT (190 -2 10
F.). If stock is to be used for bouillon or consomme or any
clear soup, skim at this time. Continue to simmer for three
or four hours to insure as complete extraction as possible of
the juices and flavor of meat. If the mixture boils, it is not
so fine in flavor.
ADD THE SPICES, HERBS, AND VEGETABLES, and continue
simmering from one-half hour to one hour. The seasonings
are added at this time rather than earlier to prevent the dis-
agreeable flavor of over-cooked vegetables.
STRAIN THE SOUP INTO A LARGE BOWL or other container.
If the stock is to be used for clear soups, place several thicknesses
of cheese-cloth over the strainer before pouring the mixture
through it.
COOL THE STOCK QUICKLY, because quick cooling improves
the keeping quality of the soup. Soup should, if possible, al-
ways be allowed to become thoroughly cold before being
used, since the fat hardens and collects in a cake on top and can
be removed easily. Do not remove fat from the top of soup
stock until the stock is to be used. It protects the stock against
spoilage.
KEEP STOCK IN A COLD PLACE, as it spoils quickly if it is not
kept chilled. Spoiled stock, like spoiled meat, is dangerous food.
SOUPS 167
Using Soup Stock
When ready to use stock, loosen fat around the edges with
the thin blade of a knife. Remove the cake of fat. If the
stock is jellied, wipe off the remaining small pieces of fat and
the edge of the bowl with a cloth wrung out in hot water. If
the stock is very soft or liquid, pass small sheets of absorbent
paper over the top of the stock.
WHEN STOCK MUST BE USED BEFORE COOLING, skim off all
the fat possible. Most of the remainder of the fat may be
removed in one of two ways. The first way is to pass over the
top small sheets of absorbent paper or blotting-paper. The
second way is to cool the soup as much as possible beforehand,
then to wrap a piece of ice in a cloth and let it down into the
stock. Move the ice around just below the surface so that the
fat on the surface is suddenly chilled, and it will gather on the
cloth around the ice. This must be done quickly to prevent
unnecessary dilution of the stock.
FOR CLEAR SOUPS, take the stock from the top of the bowl,
being careful to avoid any sediment which may have escaped
through the sieve and settled to the bottom of the bowl. This
sediment is valuable as a food and should be reserved for gravies
or soups which are not necessarily clear. Clarify this stock if
a translucent, sparkling soup is desired.
To CLARIFY SOUP Allow one egg-white and shell to one
quart of stock. Crush the shell into small pieces and mix with
the slightly beaten egg-white. Heat the stock just enough to
liquefy it, if it is jellied. Thoroughly stir the egg-white and
shell into the stock. Heat to the boiling-point, stirring con-
stantly, then boil without stirring two to five minutes. Add a
cup of cold water and set on back of stove to settle. Strain
through two thicknesses of cheese-cloth. The purpose of egg
in clarifying soup is the same as in coffee. The coagulated egg
gathers around itself the particles of solid substance in the soup,
which otherwise would be fine enough to pass through a strainer.
i68
INGREDIENTS NEEDED TO MAKE ONE QUART
OF STANDARD STOCK
BROWN STOCK OR BOUILLON.
2 pounds beef ( l / 4 to l /z 1 blade mace
bone) 1 teaspoon sweet herbs
l l / 4 quarts cold water Sprig parsley
4 to 6 peppercorns 1 tablespoon, each, of carrot,
2 cloves onion, celery, turnip
1 bay-leaf 1 teaspoon salt
A good stock can be made by using left-over meat scraps
and bones instead of the beef specified, and by substituting any
available vegetables, such as the outer leaves of lettuce, celery
tops, etc., for those given above. After the stock is made, left-
over vegetables, cereals, hard-cooked eggs, small pieces of meat,
etc., may be diced or chopped and served in the soup.
CONSOMME.
1 pound lean beef 1 clove
1 pound veal l /2 teaspoon sweet herbs
1 1 / 4 quarts cold water or Sprig parsley
1 pint cold water and 1 tablespoon each, celery, car-
1 pint chicken stock rot, onion
2 peppercorns 1 teaspoon salt
MUTTON OR LAMB STOCK OR BROTH Use the same ingre-
dients as for brown stock or bouillon, using mutton or lamb
instead of beef, and removing most of the fat from the meat.
WHITE STOCK.
2 pounds chicken or knuckle l /2 teaspoon sweet herbs
of veal 1 tablespoon, each, of onion
l l / 4 quarts cold water and celery
2 peppercorns 1 teaspoon salt
1 clove
The liquid in which a fowl or chicken is cooked is also a
white stock or chicken broth.
SOUPS 169
FISH STOCK OR COURT BOUILLON.
2 pounds white fish or 1 clove
2 pounds head and trim- Sprig parsley
mings 1 bay-leaf
1*4 quarts cold water 1 tablespoon, each, carrot,
2 peppercorns celery, onion
Fish stock needs to be cooked for only half the time required
for other stock.
VARIATIONS OF BROWN OR WHITE SOUP STOCK
VEGETABLE SOUP If a clear soup is desired, follow the direc-
tions for clarifying soup stock, and then add, to each quart of
brown stock, one cup of diced vegetables, raw or cooked. If
the vegetables are cooked, the soup needs to be boiled for only
a few minutes. When raw vegetables are added, simmer until
the vegetables are all tender, adding boiling water, if necessary,
to replace any that may have evaporated. Season to taste and
serve.
SAGO, RICE OR BARLEY SOUP For each quart of brown or
white stock, use two tablespoons sago, rice or barley. Soak sago
or rice one-half hour in enough stock or water to cover it.
Barley should be soaked over night. Bring remainder of stock
to simmering-point. Add soaked sago, barley, or rice and sim-
mer in closed saucepan one-half hour.
MACARONI, VERMICELLI, SPAGHETTI, OR NOODLE SOUP For
each quart brown stock, use *4 cup macaroni, spaghetti, vermi-
celli or noodles broken into small pieces. Simmer the pastes in
the stock until tender, adding water if necessary.
VARIATIONS OF CONSOMME
CONSOMME PRINCESSE Consomme served with shreds or
small dice of cooked chicken and green peas.
CONSOMME A LA ROYALE Consomme served with tiny
blocks of royal custard.
CONSOMME JULIENNE OR JULIENNE SOUP Consomme
served with carrot, onions, turnips and celery cut into shreds
about as thick as a match.
The vegetables should be boiled in clear water before being
added to the consomme.
170
Unthickened Soups
Soups suitable for serving as the first course of a meal with
a substantial main course are found in this group. Any of the
variations of soup stock or consomme may be used for this
purpose. The following recipes give directions for other soups
of this variety.
CHICKEN OR TURKEY BONE SOUP
Never discard the bones of turkey or chicken as they always
will make a delicious soup. Scrape the meat from the bones,
break the bones, pack in a kettle, and cover with cold water,
adding a small onion. Cover closely and simmer very gently
for three hours. Strain and cool. One-half hour before it is
to be served, return to the fire and for every quart of stock
add one cup of the cold meat, season and keep hot till needed.
This soup may be greatly improved by adding to it, three
minutes before serving, ten oysters to each quart of soup.
CLAM BROTH
12 clams in the shell 2 cups water Paprika
Purchase large clams in the shells. Scrub them thoroughly
with a brush, place them in a kettle with cold water, closely
covered, and bring water to the boiling-point. As soon as the
shells have opened, remove them from the broth. The clams
may be served at once, in the half-shell, or taken from the
shells and kept to be served in any form desired. Let the broth
settle, strain, being careful not to pour out the sandy sediment,
reheat, add a little red pepper or paprika, and serve hot. Twelve
good-sized clams should make enough broth for six persons,
but if there does not seem to be sufficient, add a little boiling
water or milk. Clam broth seldom needs added salt. Water
wafers heated in the oven, or divided crackers toasted on their
broken surfaces, buttered and heated for a few minutes in the
oven, are generally served with this broth.
Clam broth may be served, hot or cold, in cups with a heap-
ing teaspoon of whipped cream, into which has been beaten a
little salt and pepper^ placed upon the top of each cup. The
cream adds richness to the flavor of the soup and increases its
nourishing properties.
MODERN MILK PRODUCTS ADD
GREATLY TO THE SUCCESS OF
MAKING CREAMY THICK SOUPS
Irradiated Evaporated Milk
Institute
*
I
SOUPS, HOT AND THICK, OR
JELLIED CONSOMME ARE
DOUBLY DELICIOUS WHEN
BEAUTIFULLY SERVED
SOUPS 171
CLEAR TOMATO SOUP
1 quart brown soup stock 4 tablespoons butter
1 can tomatoes 2 sprigs parsley
y 2 teaspoon peppercorns l/ 4 cup each, onion, carrot,
1 small bay-leaf celery, raw ham, cut in
3 cloves dice
3 sprigs thyme Salt Pepper
Cook onion, carrot, celery, and ham in butter five minutes.
Add tomatoes, peppercorns, bay-leaf, cloves, thyme and parsley,
cover and cook slowly one hour. Strain carefully, add hot
stock, and season with salt and pepper.
This recipe may be used for jellied soup or for salad.
JELLIED SOUP
1 quart clear brown, or white 2 tablespoons gelatin
stock, or tomato or chicken l /z cup cold water
soup
Soften the gelatin in the cold water, add to the boiling hot
soup, chill and serve in cups. The trays of the mechanical
refrigerator are excellent for chilling soups.
Substantial Vegetable and Stock Soups
Soups in this group are suitable for serving as the first course
of an otherwise light dinner or as the main course of an in-
formal luncheon.
BEAN SOUP
3 slices bacon 1 tablespoon flour
2 cups baked or boiled beans 1 tablespoon butter
4 cups cold water Salt, pepper, paprika
Cook bacon. Add to beans. Add cold water and cook until
beans are soft, then rub through a strainer. Place on the fire
and add a little more water, if needed, as the soup must not be
too thick. Bind with the flour and butter. Cook two or three
minutes. Season with salt, a dash of pepper, and paprika.
172
BLACK BEAN SOUP
1 cup black beans 2 tablespoons butter
l l /z quarts water 2 tablespoons flour
1 onion 2 hard-cooked eggs
1 tablespoon fat for sauteing l /2 teaspoon mustard
2 stalks celery Pepper, salt, paprika
1 lemon
Soak the beans over night. Next morning, drain them and
cover with the cold water. Add sliced onion, which has been
browned in the fat, also stalks of celery broken into inch pieces.
Simmer until beans are soft, adding more water from time to
time. Press through a sieve, again bring to the boiling-point,
and then add seasoning of mustard, pepper, salt, and paprika to
taste. Bind with roux of butter and flour to prevent the soup
from separating. Cut the eggs and lemon in thin slices, and add
these to the strained soup just before serving.
BORSCHT
(A Famous Russian Soup)
1 bunch beets l /2 pound breast of beef
1 cup tomatoes, fresh or 1 tablespoon lemon-juice
canned % CU P sugar
4 cups water % teaspoon salt
1 small onion 4 eggs
Pare the beets and cut them into long strips. Strain the toma-
toes, over the beets, not letting any seeds through. Add water.
Put in the onion and meat, cut into small pieces, and simmer
for thirty minutes. Add lemon- juice, sugar, and salt. Boil one-
half hour more. Beat the eggs with a pinch of salt. Add the
hot borscht to this, a little at a time, stirring well to prevent
the separating of the eggs. This will behave more or less as in
any soft custard mixture. Serve at once, while very hot.
BOUILLABAISSE
This is a famous fish mixture and greatly esteemed by epi-
cures, but it can not be recommended as economical. It has one
advantage, however, and that is that if served with celery,
bread and butter, and a dessert, it would provide the main dish
for an excellent meal.
SOUPS 173
l / 2 cup oil 1 quart boiling water
2 onions, chopped 12 oysters or clams
l l / 2 pounds haddock 1 tablespoon parsley, chopped
1 1 /2 pounds cod or halibut 1 boiled lobster
2 slices lemon 1 teaspoon caramel coloring
1 bay-leaf 1 teaspoon salt Pepper
1 tomato Croutons
Put the oil and chopped onions into a large fish-kettle and
cook until the onions are brown. Add the fish, cut in slices,
two slices of lemon, a bay-leaf and the tomato, peeled and cut
into quarters. Pour the boiling water over this mixture after
it has simmered for ten minutes, and let all boil for another ten
minutes. Skim, add oysters or clams and chopped parsley,
also the meat of the boiled lobster, cut in large pieces, and cara-
mel, salt, and pepper. Each portion served should include a
large crouton, about two inches square, a piece of each kind
of fish, a piece of lobster, and a couple of oysters.
CHICKEN GUMBO
This recipe, if followed as given, will provide the main dish
for dinner. Chicken gumbo may be made by using leftovers,
or the remainder after making chicken salad or boned chicken.
1 fowl (3 to 4 pounds) 2 sprigs parsley
l /z cup salt pork fat 3 cups boiling water
1 onion l / 2 teaspoon pepper
1 quart okra, fresh or canned 2 tablespoons salt
5 tomatoes 1 cup boiled rice
1 cup cream
This is a noted Southern soup. Cut the chicken into con-
venient pieces and saute until brown in salt pork fat, then place
all the pieces in a saucepan. Cut a large onion into thin slices
and saute slowly for ten minutes in the fat. Add okra, cut
fine, sliced tomatoes, and parsley sprigs. Saute all of these in-
gredients one-half hour, quite slowly, and place them in the
saucepan with the chicken. Add boiling water, pepper and
salt. Simmer slowly two to four hours, or until the chicken is
very tender, and then add boiled rice and cream. If more
seasoning is needed, add it, and if necessary, thin with boiling
water. Boil up once and serve. Cayenne pepper (one-fourth
teaspoon) may be used instead of white or black pepper, if de-
sired. Separate the bones from the chicken. Serve with pieces
of chicken in the plate with the soup.
174
CHICKEN SOUP
This recipe provides a large bowl of substantial soup, as well
as a cooked fowl, and when the soup is served the rest of the
dinner should consist of light dishes. For more economical
recipes see Index for chicken or turkey bone soup, and chicken
broth for invalids.
1 fowl (3 to 4 pounds) 1 cup milk
l / 2 pound ham 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 onion Salt and pepper
2 to 3 quarts water 1 tablespoon flour
54 cup rice 1 tablespoon chicken fat
Cut up fowl into quarters, with the ham and onion, and add
the water. Let this simmer until the meat is very tender, then
strain, reserving the meat to be used in any way desired. Re-
move all possible fat, and to one and one-fourth quarts of this
soup (the remainder can be used for sauce with the meat) add
well washed rice, chopped parsley, salt and pepper. Simmer
until the rice is tender, add milk, then add roux made of flour
and chicken fat. Cook until the mixture is thickened (about
five minutes), season and serve.
GREEN PEA SOUP
2 cups stock 2 sprigs mint
1 quart water 1 tablespoon flour
1 quart green peas 1 tablespoon butter
1 celery stalk Salt and pepper
1 onion Sugar
1 turnip
Reserve one-half cup of peas, and to the stock and water
add the rest of the peas, the celery stalk, onion and turnip cut
into pieces, and the mint. Stew until the mass is tender. Strain
through a sieve or coarse cheese-cloth. Thin with stock or
water, if necessary; bind with a roux of flour and fat and season
with salt, pepper, and a little sugar. Add the half cup of whole
peas, stew for a few minutes, and serve.
SPLIT PEA SOUP
This recipe provides the main part of a dinner, since the
ham end will serve as the meat dish. A ham bone, left over
SOUPS 175
from a boiled or baked ham, will flavor pea soup quite as well
as a piece bought especially for the purpose.
2 or 3 pounds ham end 3 quarts boiling water
1 carrot 1 cup split peas
1 onion Salt and pepper
2 potatoes 2 tablespoons catchup
Put the end of a moderately lean smoked ham into a kettle
with carrot and peeled onion, whole potatoes, and boiling water.
Boil one hour and strain. Now rinse the ham thoroughly in
hot water and return to the strained stock, together with split
peas which have been soaking all night, and boil for one hour.
Season with salt and white pepper and add catchup. Serve at
once. Thin with boiling water if too thick.
ONION SOUP GRATINE
3 onions Pepper and salt
3 tablespoons butter % clove garlic (if desired)
3 pints beef stock 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
3 tablespoons grated cheese % l a f French bread
Slice onions and put them into a stew-pan with butter. Stir
and fry slowly until softened and slightly browned. Add beef
stock, boil ten minutes, skim, season, and add parsley and
garlic. Cut the bread into thin slices, dry in the oven a few
minutes, pour soup into a low earthen casserole, put bread on
top, sprinkle with grated cheese, and set in a very hot oven
(450 -5 00 F.) just long enough to brown the cheese.
ONION STEW OR DUTCH BROTH
6 onions 3 tablespoons flour
5 tablespoons butter 2 cups scalded milk
3 cups cold water Salt and cayenne
1 egg-yolk
Chop the onions and cook them in two tablespoons of the
butter for five minutes, then add water and cook thirty minutes.
Press through a sieve. Make a roux of the remaining butter
and the flour, combine it with the scalded milk and add season-
ing. Cook five minutes, stirring constantly. Add this milk
mixture to the onion mixture. Mix thoroughly and add the
gg-yolk, slightly beaten. Serve individually in Dutch bowls
and place one teaspoon of grated Edam cheese on the top. Set
for a few minutes in a hot oven to melt the cheese.
176
Thick Soups, Chowders and Stews
Cream Soups
Cream soups are made by combining a very thin white sauce,
see page 308, with a suitable quantity of cooked, mashed,
strained vegetable, fish or meat pulp. Irradiated evaporated milk
used instead of white sauce will greatly increase the food value
and when used for making white sauce will increase the flavor.
Flavor is improved, too, by the use of some highly flavored
vegetables or the addition of a proportion of soup stock.
Purees
Purees are made in the same way as cream soups, but are
somewhat thicker. They are often served under the name of
"Cream Soup."
Bisques
The name bisque is usually given to a cream soup made from
fish, and the fish is often diced or mashed through a coarse
strainer. A familiar example of an exception in the use of
the word is mock bisque soup, or tomato bisque, as it is often
called.
Chowders
Chowders were probably the common ancestors of the more
refined cream soups, purees, and bisques. The word chowder
comes from the French cbaudiere, meaning caldron. The
chowder originated as a community fish stew to which each
neighbor contributed something; milk, fish, potatoes, crackers,
pork or some seasoning. These contributions were all cooked
together in the common caldron, from which chowder derives
its name, and each contributor withdrew his share of soup when
it was ready.
The chowder of today is much the same as the old chowder,
and consists of pieces of different vegetables or of fish and po-
tatoes and various seasonings cooked in milk with crackers added
just before serving.
Fish Stews
Fish stews are made of milk and the juice of the fish which
gives flavor to the soup. They differ from the cream soups in
SOUPS 177
that they need not be thickened, though they often are, and
from the chowders in being less complex in composition.
Binding Thick Soups
When a vegetable, meat or fish pulp is combined with milk
or stock in making soups, they separate and the solid substance
sinks to the bottom of the liquid. Some flour or corn-starch
cooked into the mixture will overcome this. With many of
these soups the reason for using the flour or corn-starch may
not necessarily be to thicken a soup which the vegetable, meat
or fish pulp has already made thick enough, but to blend the
liquid with the solid so that all parts of the soup will have the
same consistency.
Flour or corn-starch may be mixed with enough cold liquid
milk, water, or stock to make a creamy thickness and added
carefully to the soup; or it may be combined with the soup
by means of a roux (see Index) . When a colored roux is de-
sired the fat is browned before the flour is added and the mix-
ture is cooked to a reddish brown color. When a roux is made
in this way, the liquid is usually added to it gradually.
Preventing Skin on Cream Soups
A cream or milk soup has a tendency to form a skin on the
top as it cools. If it is beaten just before it is served, the froth
protects it against skin formation.
A spoonful of whipped cream or beaten egg-white served
on top of each portion of cream soup aids in preventing the skin
formation and adds to the delicacy and attractiveness of the
dish.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING A STANDARD
CREAM SOUP
4 cups milk or part milk and 2 cups vegetable pulp or meat
part stock or fish pulp
2 tablespoons flour Salt, pepper, other
2 tablespoons fat seasonings
1. Make a white sauce of the liquid, flour, and fat.
2. Cook the vegetables or meat or fish until tender, drain s
and mash through a sieve.
3. Combine the vegetable, meat, or fish pulp with the white
sauce.
4. Season, beat with an egg-beater, and serve. A tiny portion
of whipped cream or beaten egg-white may be served on top
of each portion.
The amount of flour may be increased for purees and bisques.
VARIATIONS OF CREAM SOUP
CREAM OF ASPARAGUS OR CREAM OF CELERY SOUP Follow
directions for making a standard cream soup.
CREAM OF CORN SOUP
5 cups corn, canned or fresh 2 tablespoons butter
5 cups milk or part milk and Salt and pepper
part white stock 2 egg-yolks
2 tablespoons flour
Put the corn into a double boiler with one quart of the milk
and cook for twenty minutes. Make a white sauce of the milk
and corn, flour, and fat, add salt and pepper and cook five
minutes. Rub the soup through a strainer, beat the yolks of the
eggs well, and add to them the remaining cup of cold milk;
stir this mixture into the soup, cook for a minute or two, stirring
constantly. Beat and serve at once.
CREAM OF MUSHROOM SOUP
l /4 pound mushrooms (or skin 2 tablespoons flour
and stems of l / 2 pound) 1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter 1 pint milk
Brush, wash and skin the mushrooms. Put the skins to sim-
mer in a little water. Cut the mushroom caps and stems into
very small pieces; add one pint of water and simmer until
tender. Make a sauce of the fat, flour, salt and milk and add
the water in which the mushroom caps, stems and skin were
cooked.
CREAM OF ONION AND POTATO SOUP
3 cups scalded milk 4 medium potatoes
1 cup potato water 4 onions
2 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
2 tablespoons butter Salt and pepper
Boil the potatoes and onions together, until tender. Drain.
Save the water and rub the vegetables through a coarse strainer.
SOUPS 179
Make a white sauce of the liquid, flour, and fat and combine
with the potato and onion pulp. Season with chopped parsley,
salt and pepper. Beat with an egg-beater and serve with crou-
tons.
CREAM OF PEA SOUP Follow directions for making a stand-
ard cream soup, but keep one cup of the cooked peas whole
and add them to the soup just before serving.
CREAM OF SPINACH SOUP Follow directions for making a
standard cream soup.
CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP
1 quart milk or half milk and 1 pint tomatoes
half white stock Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons flour l / 4 teaspoon soda
2 tablespoons butter
Make a white sauce of the liquid, flour, and butter. Cook
the tomatoes until tender, and mash through a coarse sieve.
Just before serving, add the soda to the tomatoes and gradually
add the tomatoes to the white sauce, stirring constantly. Season
and serve at once. If soup begins to curdle, beat thoroughly
with egg-beater.
Purees
PUREE OF ONION
3 large or 6 small onions 2 or 3 tablespoons butter or
2 cups white stock other fat
2 cups milk Salt and pepper
2 or 3 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
Make a white sauce with stock, milk, flour, and butter. Cook
onions in water until very tender. Drain, and rub through a
sieve. Combine onion and sauce. Season with salt, pepper,
and chopped parsley. Beat with egg-beater and serve.
Use three tablespoons flour when increased thickness is de-
sired.
FISH PUREE
1 quart milk 4 tablespoons butter or
1 small onion, minced other fat
4 tablespoons flour 2 cups cooked fish
Salt and pepper
Scald the minced onion in milk. Make a white sauce of the
i8o
SSNSNS
milk, flour, and butter. Rub the cooked fish through a sieve.
Combine the fish and sauce. Season and serve.
PUREE OF PEAS AND TOMATOES
l /2 pound dried yellow split 1 or 2 celery tops
peas Salt and pepper
1 pint tomatoes 1 tablespoon flour
1 quart water 1 tablespoon butter
1 onion
Soak peas over night in water enough to cover them three or
four inches. Drain, and put into a saucepan with the tomatoes,
water, sliced onion, and celery tops. Cook until the peas are
tender. Mash through a sieve. Season with salt and pepper.
Bind with a roux made of the flour and butter, and serve,
garnished with a thin slice of tomato or lemon and a few
canned peas if available. Serve with bread croutons.
SPLIT PEA OR LIMA BEAN PUREE
1 cup split peas or dried lima 2 tablespoons butter or
beans other fat
2 quarts water Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon flour Celery salt
1 teaspoon onion-juice
Soak peas or beans all night, then put them over the fire with
water and bring to a boil. Cook slowly, until soft. Rub
through a sieve, heat, and thicken with roux of flour and
fat. Season with salt, pepper, celery salt, and onion-juice.
Stir or beat until smooth and serve with croutons.
Cold Fruit Purees
In hot weather, cold fruit purees are sometimes preferred to
hot soups. They are always served in cups, usually of glass,
and with a few pieces of the fruit floating on the surface. They
should be thoroughly chilled. The trays of the mechanical
refrigerator are excellent for this purpose. These fruit purees
are really as closely related to the appetizers as to the soups.
SOUPS 181
CHERRY PUREE
Juice from 1 quart of tart 2 teaspoons arrowroot
cherries, freshly stewed or Grated rind of 1 lemon
canned
Heat the juice from the cherries. Add arrowroot moistened
with cold water, stirring the mixture rapidly to prevent the
forming of lumps. Flavor with the grated lemon-rind. Serve
very cold, with a whole cherry floating on each portion.
ORANGE PUREE
2 cups orange-juice l /2 cup sugar
1 teaspoon corn-starch 1 teaspoon grated orange-
2 tablespoons cold water rind
Place orange-juice in saucepan and when it is thoroughly
heated add the corn-starch mixed with the cold water. Cook
slowly until clear. Add sugar and grated orange-rind. Serve
ice-cold in glass sherbet cups.
RASPBERRY PUREE
l / 2 cup granulated tapioca 2 cups raspberries
6 cups water Sugar
l /2 cup currant-juice
Boil tapioca in water and currant-juice. When tapioca is
transparent, add raspberries and sugar to taste. Set aside to
cool. Serve ice-cold in sherbet-glasses.
Bisques
BISQUE OF CLAMS
24 clams in the shell 2 cups water
2 cups rich milk or white 1 tablespoon chopped celery
stock or part of each 1 teaspoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon butter Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon flour
Make a white sauce of the milk, flour, and butter. Scrub the
clams thoroughly, then pack into pot with a tight-fitting lid,
using l / 2 cup water to steam. When all have popped open,
l82
^-^N>-^^
remove, cool in their own liquor. Detach clams from shells, put
through food chopper and add strained liquor. Add water,
chopped celery and parsley and cook ten minutes. Press through
a sieve and add to the white sauce. Season, beat with an egg-
beater, and serve.
BISQUE OF LOBSTER
1 medium-sized lobster 1 cup cold water
1 quart milk Red pepper
4 tablespoons butter Salt and pepper
4 tablespoons flour
Make a white sauce of the milk, flour, and butter. Re-
move meat from freshly boiled lobster. Reserve the coral and
the green fat. Put the cold water into a kettle and add the
broken claws and shell and the finely chopped tail meat. Bring
to the simmering-point and simmer for twenty minutes. Drain,
and stir into the white sauce. Add the remainder of the lobster
meat, cut in dice. Season with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Just
before serving, add the coral mashed to a paste with the green
fat. Mix thoroughly, reheat, and serve with croutons.
BISQUE OF OYSTERS
1 pint oysters 1 slice onion, chopped fine
2 cups milk 1 stalk celery, diced
1 cup stale bread-crumbs 1 stalk parsley, chopped fine
1 tablespoon flour 1 bay-leaf
1 tablespoon butter Salt and pepper
2 cups water
Scald the milk, add the bread-crumbs and cook in a double
boiler for twenty minutes. Rub through a sieve. Make a
white sauce of the milk and crumb mixture and the flour and
butter. Chop the oysters, put them in a saucepan with their
own liquor, the water and the chopped vegetables and herbs.
Simmer for twenty or thirty minutes. Rub through a fine
sieve and combine with the white sauce mixture. More milk
or cream may be added if the bisque is very thick. Season and
serve.
SOUPS 183
MOCK BISQUE OR TOMATO BISQUE SOUP
2 cups raw or canned toma- Bit of bay-leaf
toes % CU P sta l e bread crumbs
2 teaspoons sugar 4 cups milk
l /$ teaspoon soda l / 2 tablespoon salt
l /2 onion stuck with 6 cloves l /s teaspoon pepper
Sprig of parsley Y 3 cup butter
Scald milk with bread crumbs, onion, parsley, and bay leaf.
Remove seasonings and rub through a sieve. Cook tomatoes
with sugar fifteen minutes, add soda and rub through a sieve.
Reheat bread and milk to boiling-point, add tomatoes, and pour
at once into tureen over butter, salt, and pepper. Serve with
croutons or crisp crackers.
Chowders
CLAM CHOWDER
50 clams l /2 teaspoon thyme
4 ounces salt pork 3 potatoes
1 medium-sized onion 1 pint milk
2 tablespoons flour l /2 teaspoon pepper
l /2 teaspoon salt 3 pilot biscuit
Put clams, with their own liquor, into a granite-ware sauce-
pan, and when they have come to a boil skim out the clams and
return liquid to the fire. Cut the salt pork into thin slices,
chop the onion, and saute the two together until brown. Stir
in flour, and when mixture is bubbling slowly, add the clam
liquor. Season with salt, white pepper, and thyme. Add po-
tatoes which have been cut into small cubes, and cook this
mixture until the potatoes are tender. Just before serving, add
milk, clams cut into pieces, and three large pilot biscuit or a
larger number of hard water-crackers, as preferred. If liked
thicker, blend one tablespoon of butter or other fat with the
same of flour, and add gradually.
To make Rhode Island clam chowder, add tomatoes, either
canned or fresh.
184
CORN CHOWDER
2 slices fat salt pork 2 cups boiling water
1 onion 1 cup cooked corn, fresh
3 cups diced boiled potatoes or canned
Salt and pepper 4 cups hot milk
Cut the pork into small pieces and try it out. In this cook
the sliced onion. Strain the fat into another receptacle, and put
the potatoes into the strained fat. Add boiling water, corn
which has been cooked till tender, and hot milk. Season with
salt and white pepper, bring to the boiling-point, and serve with
a cracker on each soup-plate.
FISH CHOWDER
l /4 pound fat salt pork, sliced 3 cups boiling water
2 cups raw fish, cut in dice 1 pint milk
6 small potatoes, sliced 3 pilot biscuit
2 onions, chopped fine
Fry salt pork in a deep kettle. When crisp remove pieces of
pork and put fish, potatoes and onions in kettle. Cover with
the boiling water. Simmer one-half hour, or until the potato
is tender. Add the milk and cook five minutes longer. Season
with salt and pepper. Just before serving, add the pilot biscuit.
OYSTER CHOWDER
1 quart oysters 2 tablespoons butter or
6 potatoes other fat
1 onion 1 tablespoon flour
1 cup water Salt and pepper
3 cups milk 3 pilot biscuit
Drain the oysters, and remove any particles of shell. Strain
the liquor through a fine wire sieve. Slice the potatoes and
onion thin and boil them in the oyster liquor and water until
tender but not mushy. Make a white sauce with the fat, flour,
and milk, put the oysters into it, and cook two minutes. Com-
bine white sauce with potatoes and onion and the liquor in
which they have been cooked. Season to taste with salt and
pepper. Place the pilot biscuit in the hot tureen. Pour the
chowder over them, and serve.
SOUPS 185
CLAM STEW
Make in same way as oyster stew, using clams.
CRAB STEW
6 hard-shell crabs 1 pint rich milk
1 tablespoon butter 1 quart water
1 tablespoon flour Salt and pepper
1 onion Parsley
Boil the crabs. Remove the meat and saute it in butter
with one small onion. Cook until the onion is quite brown.
Add flour, salt, and pepper, cook a little longer, then add water
and minced parsley. Simmer ten minutes, add milk and reheat.
OYSTER STEW
UNTHICKENED
1 pint oysters Salt, pepper, paprika
4 tablespoons butter 1 quart rich milk
Put cleaned oysters, strained oyster liquor, butter and season-
ing into a saucepan and simmer gently until oysters begin to
curl at the edges. At the same time, heat the milk, being care-
ful not to scorch it. Add the hot milk to the oysters and oyster
liquor and serve at once.
THICKENED To the ingredients given above, add from four
to eight tablespoons of flour, and, if desired, a little onion-juice
and mace. Scald the oysters in their own liquor. Make a white
sauce of the milk, flour and butter and season as desired. Com-
bine the scalded oysters and oyster liquor with the white sauce
and serve at once.
YEAST BOUILLON
In recent years several varieties of autolyzed yeast have ap-
peared on the market to be used as bouillon or in sandwich
pastes. They have the flavor of strong meat extract but have
the advantage of being of pure vegetable origin. If purchased
in jars use according to direction. When in cubes use like any
other bouillon cube. Of peculiar value for the high content of
vitamins B and G, it is also called petite marmite.
SOUP ACCESSORIES
O OUP may be served with many accompaniments, such as
^ crisped crackers, cheese-sticks and pulled bread; and va-
rieties of croutons, forcemeat balls, noodles, and vegetable
pastes may be placed in the soup itself. Grated Parmesan
cheese is passed with many kinds of soup to be sprinkled on
each portion.
Recipes for some of the best-liked accompaniments for soup
are given below.
CROUTONS
Cut stale bread into slices about one-third of an inch thick,
and remove all crust. Spread with butter, cut in cubes and
bake in the oven until delicately browned. If preferred, these
cubes of bread may be fried in deep fat or sauted in just enough
fat to keep them from burning. Put into soup at time of serv-
ing, or pass in a separate dish, permitting each person to put as
many croutons as he may wish in his portion of soup.
MOCK ALMONDS
These are merely croutons shaped to represent almonds.
CHEESE STICKS AND ROLLS
Cut bread in long, narrow strips, spread with butter, then
with a thick coating of grated cheese. Brown in moderate oven
(350 F.). Or cut crust from sliced bread, spread thickly with
paste of grated cheese and butter, roll, fasten with toothpick
and brown as above.
HOT CRISPED CRACKERS
Toast thin wafers or crackers for three minutes in a hot oven
(400 -42 5 F.). They are better if spread with a thin film
of butter before being put into the oven. If Boston crackers
are preferred, split them, arrange the halves, rough side up, on
a plate, lay a bit of butter on each, and brown them in the
oven.
186
SOUP ACCESSORIES 187
VARIATIONS
Use the cookie cutters in any small design to cut sliced bread
for toasting on a cookie sheet or large pan. Or use the cutters
on biscuit dough and bake or fry in deep fat.
NOODLES
1 egg l /2 teaspoon salt Flour
Stir sufficient flour into a slightly beaten egg to make a very
stiff dough. Add salt, knead, and roll as thin as possible. It
should be of almost paperlike thinness. Cover with a towel
and let remain untouched for half an hour. Then cut in small
fancy shapes, and dry them. When needed, place in boiling
water and cook rapidly for fifteen minutes. This dough may
also be rolled into threads and used like macaroni in soup.
NOODLE BALLS Roll the noodle paste as directed above,
fold it double and with a tin cutter make circles about one-
fourth inch in diameter. Toss these balls into hot fat, (360-
370 F.) using a wire frying-basket. In about a minute they
will turn a delicate brown and puff into balls. Drain on soft
paper and serve with soup. As these soften quickly, it is better
not to put them in the tureen, but to pass them after the soup
has been served.
EGG BALLS
No. 1.
5 eggs 1 teaspoon salt
l /2 teaspoon pepper Flour
Simmer four of the eggs in the shell twenty minutes and
mash the yolks to a smooth paste in a bowl; then add the salt
and pepper and the other egg, well beaten. Shape the mass into
tiny balls, roll them in flour and saute, tossing them about while
frying to prevent their sticking to the pan. They *iay be made
some time before needed. Use the hard-cooked egg-whites for
a sandwich or a salad.
No. 2.
Mash the four cooked yolks to a paste, season, and mix with
the uncooked egg-yolk. Form into small balls. Roll them in
the uncooked egg-white, then in flour, and poach in hot water.
These are attractive in consomme.
I
P ACCESSORIES
D SALADS, BUY
i88
MARROW AND LIVER BALLS
2 tablespoons melted marrow Salt and pepper
1 egg Paprika
^/2 cup s fr bread-crumbs y$ teaspoon onion juice
Strain melted marrow through cheese-cloth, beat until creamy
and then add beaten egg. Season with salt, pepper and paprika,
add a little moist bread, and form into balls. Poach in boiling
water. Use 1 cup chopped liver instead of marrow for liver balls.
PATE A CHOUX
1 teaspoon butter 1 egg
2 l /2 teaspoons milk Salt
*4 cup flour
Heat butter and milk together. When at the boiling-point,
add the flour and a pinch of salt, stirring constantly. Remove
from the fire, beat in the unbeaten egg, and continue beating
until the egg is well mixed with the other ingredients. When
cool, drop small pieces from the tip of a teaspoon into deep,
boiling fat. When brown and crisp, drain on absorbent paper.
If desired, two tablespoons of grated Parmesan cheese may be
added to this recipe.
CUSTARD FOR GARNISHING
Allow two tablespoons of milk, cream, or consomme to each
egg. Mix well, season with salt and pepper, and pour into a
buttered mold, making the custard one-half inch thick. Set
the mold in a pan containing hot water and place in a slow oven
(300-350 R). When the custard is set, remove from the
oven and cool. Cut it into small pieces or fancy shapes. The
egg-white, the egg-yolk or the whole egg may be used in mak-
ing this custard.
CUSTARD ROYALE.
2 egg-yolks Salt and pepper
1 egg Cayenne
l /2 cup beef stock
Beat the yolks of the eggs slightly and then beat into them
the one whole egg. Add beef stock, a little salt, pepper and a
SOUP ACCESSORIES 189
few grains of cayenne. Pour the mixture into a shallow pan
or dish, so that the custard will be about one-half inch deep.
Set this pan into another holding water that is just below the
boiling-point and place both in a slow oven (300 -3 50 F.).
The custard should set without bubbling and without forming
a brown crust on top. "When cold, cut in fancy shapes with
vegetable-cutter. Use care in placing these in the soup, so that
they may not break. When used in consomme, they give the
name "Consomme Royale" to the soup.
CHICKEN FORCEMEAT
WHITE
2 breasts chicken (uncooked) 1 cup milk
5/2 teaspoon salt l / 2 blade mace
1 cup dry bread-crumbs % teaspoon pepper
3 tablespoons butter 2 egg-whites
Chop, pound and rub through a puree-sieve, the uncooked
breasts of chicken. There should be a full half-pint of meat.
Add salt and pepper. Boil together the bread-crumbs (no
crusts), milk and mace for ten minutes, or until cooked to a
smooth paste. Remove from the fire, put in butter and then
add the seasoned meat and the well-beaten whites of eggs. Stir
until all ingredients are thoroughly blended.
DARK Use dark meat instead of light and the yolks of the
eggs instead of whites. Chicken livers, also, may be used for
forcemeat.
FISH FORCEMEAT
Free any kind of delicate fish from skin, fat and bone.
Pound, strain, use one-half pint fish and proceed as for chicken
forcemeat.
OYSTER FORCEMEAT
12 oysters Cayenne
2 cups dry bread-crumbs 1 teaspoon parsley
3 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon lemon-juice
2 egg-yolks 3 tablespoons oyster-juice
1 teaspoon salt Nutmeg
Chop the oysters fine and add the bread-crumbs, butter, salt,
cayenne, minced parsley, lemon- juice, oyster- juice,^ the yolks
of raw eggs and a grating of nutmeg. Pound to a smooth
190
~^*j~~f
paste and rub through a puree-sieve. Add more salt if neces-
sary. This is a fine forcemeat for timbales, or for stuffing
poultry or fish. For use in soups, it may be made into balls,
dipped in beaten egg-yolks, then in bread-crumbs and fried, or
rolled into very small balls, dipped in egg-yolks and browned
in the oven.
QUENELLES These are shapes made by forcing forcemeat
through a pastry bag and tube into boiling water or stock.
They are used to garnish entrees as well as soups.
COLORING FOR SOUPS AND SAUCES
To color brown, use browned flour or a little burnt sugar.
(See Index for caramel recipe) or a few drops of commercial
vegetable flavoring.
Spinach leaves give a fine green color. Pound the uncooked
leaves, and add to soup five minutes before serving.
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*
-/ E A FfSiST A R S "flm&T R
FISH
THE main difference between fish from fresh water and
those from salt water, as food, is that the salt-water fish
are an important source of bromin and iodin in the diet,
and are considered desirable because of the value of iodin in
preventing goiter. Some of the most common salt-water fish
are cod, haddock, halibut, smelt, mackerel, salmon, shad,
herring, oysters, clams, scallops, lobsters, crabs, shrimps and
prawns, and some terrapins. Fish as food may be divided into:
WHITE FISH Fish that have less than two per cent fat,
examples of which are smelt, flounder, yellow perch, pike,
pickerel, sea bass, cod and haddock.
MEDIUM FAT FISH Fish that have two to five per cent fat,
examples of which are weakfish, brook trout, mullet, and white
perch.
FAT OR OILY FISH Fish that contain five per cent or more
of fat, examples of which are salmon, shad, herring, lake trout,
bluefish, Spanish mackerel, butterfish, and eels.
SHELLFISH Mollusks (oysters, clams, scallops and mussels) ;
crustaceans (lobsters, crabs, shrimps, prawns, crawfish or cray-
fish) ; reptiles (frogs, terrapins and turtles. The reptiles really
belong to a lower order of animal than fish, but as they spend
some time in the water they are discussed in this chapter.).
Amount of Fish to Buy
If the fish bought is solid flesh, one-third of a pound should
be allowed for each person. If fish is bought in the round
(with bones, head, tail, etc.) at least one-half pound must be
bought for each person.
Selecting and Caring for Fish
FRESH AND FROZEN FISH Fresh fish, or fish that was frozen
while fresh, has full or bulging bright eyes, bright red gills,
firm and elastic flesh and fresh odor. Be sure that the flesh
along the back-bone smells fresh; it spoils there first. Fresh
fish sinks in fresh water. If it floats, it should not be used.
191
192
*^/VXN^
As soon as fish comes from the market, clean it and put it
into the refrigerator or other cool place until it is needed.
Fish that is frozen immediately after it is caught, and is
kept frozen until the time for cooking does not lose its flavor.
It is preferable to clean and draw it without thawing, but if
it is too hard to handle soak in cold water or allow to thaw in the
refrigerator overnight until just flexible. Skinning is some-
times easier than scaling. Then it should be cooked at once with-
out further thawing. Quick frozen fish on the market today
is cleaned and ready for use. Cook at once without thawing,
allowing only slightly more than the usual time allotted to
broiling or baking as the case may be.
Cleaning and Dressing Fish
Although fish may have been cleaned and dressed at the
market, they are likely to need additional cleaning before they
are cooked. If any scales have been left on a fish that is to be
cooked with the skin on, remove them with a dull knife (a
sharp one might cut the skin) . Draw the knife over the fish,
from tail to head, slanting it toward the body of the fish at an
angle of about 45. If the fish is to be split, remove the head
and tail. Wash quickly under cold running water and wipe
the fish thoroughly, inside as well as outside, with a wet cloth.
Then wipe with a clean dry cloth and keep on a plate in a cold
place until ready to use.
To Skin a Fish
Remove the fins, cut off a strip of skin along the backbone,
and cut the skin around the gills. Pull the skin off with the
hand. If the flesh is soft, work slowly and closely follow the
skin with the 'knife, to avoid tearing the flesh.
To Bone and Fillet a Fish
Clean and skin the fish. Insert a sharp knife close to the
backbone at the tail end, and cut the flesh from the bone, work-
ing toward the head and keeping the knife as close as possible
to the bone. Small bones that adhere to the flesh or are em-
bedded in it must be removed with the fingers.
Large fish, such as cod and halibut, are easily boned; in fact,
PISH 193
they are usually purchased in slices. Fish with many bones,
like shad, can not be boned satisfactorily.
Flounders are often boned, to form fillets, and are served as
"fillets of sole." The English sole is seldom imported, and most
of the "fillet of sole" that is served in America is made from
the flounder, which has a white, delicate flesh similar to the
sole.
A fillet is merely a piece of fish without skin and bones.
Fillets look better on the serving platter if they are approxi-
mately the same size. Rolled fillets are called turbans. They
are fastened with wooden toothpicks to keep them in shape
during cooking, but the picks are removed before the fish is
served.
Salted, Smoked and Canned Fish
These may be had the year around. The following varieties
are likely to be in any market:
DRIED SALT FiSH-Cod, haddock, hake, pollack, and whit-
ing.
BRINE-SALTED FISH Herring, mackerel, mullet, salmon,
shad.
SMOKED FISH Carp, catfish, eel, finnan haddie, hake, hali-
but, lake trout, pollack, salmon, sturgeon, whitefish.
CANNED FISH Cod, haddock, herring, mackerel, salmon,
sardines, tunafish, oysters, shrimps, lobsters, clams.
PICKLED FISH Sardines, eels, sturgeon, oysters, clams, scal-
lops, lobsters and mussels.
To Freshen Salt Fish
Place the fish flesh side down in a large pan of fresh water, set
the pan in a cool place and let it soak from one to forty-eight
hours, changing the water several times. If the fish is to be
cooked in liquid, it will need a shorter time in water than if it is
to be cooked with very little moisture.
Boiled Fish
For boiling a large fish whole, a fish-kettle with strainer, a
large kettle with a wire frying-basket or a steamer is needed.
A plate in a piece of coarse muslin or cheese-cloth, kept for
194
this purpose, may be used for fish in small pieces. Clean the
fish, rub a little salt over it, wrap it in a cloth and place it in
the container in which it is to be boiled or steamed.
The fish must not be put into cold water, as that extracts
the flavor, nor into boiling water, as that breaks the skin, but
should be put into hot water, which may then be quickly
brought to the boiling-point. After the water boils, decrease
the heat so that it will simmer.
Use enough water to cover the fish, add one teaspoon of salt
and one tablespoon of vinegar or lemon- juice to every two
quarts of water. These whiten the flesh and make it firm as
well as season it. After the water begins to simmer, allow five
to ten minutes to the pound for small thin pieces and ten to
fifteen minutes to the pound for large thick pieces.
Fish That Are Good Boiled
WITH SUGGESTIONS FOR SAUCES AND GARNISHES
Fish
Codfish
Flounder
Haddock
Halibut
Mackerel
Salmon
Sheepshead
Snapper (red)
Sole (flounder)
Trout
creamy
Hoi-
Sauce
Butter sauce, caper
sauce, oyster sauce,
shrimp sauce
Bechamel sauce
Egg sauce
Bechamel sauce,
sauce, egg sauce,
landaise sauce
Caper sauce, parsley
sauce
Egg sauce, Hollandaise
sauce, Tartar sauce
Drawn-butter sauce
Mushroom sauce, tomato
sauce
Bechamel sauce
Horseradish sauce
Garnish
Parsley or cress
Chopped parsley
Parsley or cress
Parsley or cress
Cress, lemon, parsley
Parsley and lemon
Parsley
Parsley
If you wish to serve a whole boiled fish upright, as if swim-
ming, place a carrot inside the fish to make it retain its form,
and arrange the garnishings so that it will keep its position on
the platter. Bind the fish to the strainer with twine when
cooking. A fish retains shape and flavor better in a steamer
than when immersed in water.
FISH 195
To steam, place the fish on a plate in the upper part of a
steamer, allowing the same time as for boiling.
Boiled fish needs a rich sauce, such as egg sauce, Hollandaise,
Bechamel or drawn butter.
Fresh-water fish or other fish without much flavor may be
boiled in court bouillon (See Index). Stock in which fish has
been cooked may be made into fish chowder (See Index).
PICKLED SALMON
4 to 5 pounds salmon 1 grated nutmeg
2 quarts vinegar 6 blades mace
1 ounce peppercorns 1 tablespoon salad oil
Wrap the salmon in a fish-cloth and simmer in salted water
about three-fourths of an hour. Drain, wrap in a dry cloth
and set in a cold place till ready to use. For the pickle, use one
quart of the water in which the salmon was cooked, the vine-
gar, peppercorns, grated nutmeg and mace. Boil for a few
minutes, in a kettle closely covered to prevent evaporation of
the flavor. Cool. When quite cold, pour over the salmon;
then pour in the oil. Cover closely and place in a dry cool
place. This pickle will keep many months.
BONED HERRINGS
6 large herrings Parsley
Pepper Vinegar
Salt 6 slices buttered toast
Select fish with roes. Split, wash, scrape and remove heads,
roe, and backbone. Sprinkle generously with pepper, salt, and
minced parsley, then roll each piece tightly, beginning with the
neck, and tie with a string. Put into boiling water that is
seasoned with pepper, salt and vinegar and simmer ten or fifteen
minutes. Cut the roe in pieces and fry. Place the fish and roe
on buttered toast, garnish and serve.
Broiled Fish
To broil a whole fish, split the fish down the back, dry
thoroughly, sprinkle with salt, pepper and lemon- juice. Place
fish, flesh side down, on a well-greased wire broiler. Turn and
broil on skin side just enough to crisp the skin. Large fish are
cut into slices one inch thick, and broiled on both sides evenly.
ig6
Fish That Are Good Broiled
WITH SUGGESTIONS FOR SAUCES AND GARNISHES
Fish Sauce
Black Bass (split) Melted butter
Cod (sliced)
Flounder (split
or filleted)
Halibut (sliced)
Mackerel (split)
Pompano (split)
Salmon (sliced)
Shad (split)
Smelts (whole)
Melted butter
Tomato sauce,
sauce
lemon
Butter sauce, Hollan-
daise sauce, oyster
sauce
Maitre d'hotel sauce,
lemon sauce
Maitre d'hotel sauce
Anchovy sauce, caper
sauce
Maitre d'hotel sauce,
butter sauce
Remoulade sauce,
Bechamel sauce
Swordfish (sliced) Horseradish sauce
BROILED SMELTS
Garnish
Lemon, and parsley
Lemon
Parsley
Parsley, lemon
Lemon, cucumber,
parsley
Cucumber, cress or
lettuce salad
Chopped parsley
Parsley and radishes
Parsley
Parsley
1 tablespoon salt
l /2 tablespoon pepper
3 tablespoons flour
12 smelts
3 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon lemon-juice
Small smelts are not always split open and cleaned, but the
entrails are squeezed out carefully so as not to bruise the fish,
and the heads are sometimes left on. When the smelts are
large, however, cutting down the belly to remove entrails is
more satisfactory. Put butter, lemon-juice, salt and pepper in
a deep plate on the back of the stove where the fat will slowly
melt. On another plate, place the flour. Wash and wipe the
fish and roll it in the melted, seasoned fat, and then lightly in
the flour. Arrange on a double broiler and cook four or five
minutes over clear coals. Serve on a warm dish with remoulade
sauce.
Baked Fish
WHOLE LARGE FISH Dress and stuff the fish (See chapter
"Stuffings for Fish, Meat, Poultry and Game.") and sew up
the opening with a trussing-needle. If a white or medium fat
TYING PUTE AND SALMON IN
CHEESECLOTH WHEN BOILING,
WILL PRESERVE ITS BEAUTY
it
WHETHER BAKED OR PLANKED, ONLY
CAREFUL HANDLING
WILL BRING FISH
TO THE TABLE ^
LOOKING
ITS BEST
THE LORDLY LOBSTER IS ST
CRAT OF THE
m
FISH
197
fish is used, cut three or more slits in its sides and insert a strip
of salt pork in each. Fat fish needs no larding, it has fat enough
in itself.
Place a cloth or a rack in the bottom of a baking-pan. Upon
the cloth place a thin layer of minced salt pork and a few slices
of onion and tomato. Upon these place the fish itself. Dredge
with salt, pepper and flour and lay on more salt pork; place in
a hot oven (425 F.) add a cup of boiling water and cover.
Cook fifteen to twenty minutes to each pound, basting fre-
quently, adding water after each basting if necessary. After
the first fifteen or twenty minutes reduce the heat to 350 F.
Milk may be used instead of water in baking dry fish steaks. If
a dripping-pan is used, it is not necessary to add water, and fish
has more flavor if cooked without water.
SMALL FISH OR FILLETS Follow directions for whole large
fish, allowing a total baking period of twenty to thirty minutes.
Fish That Are Good Baked Whole
WITH SUGGESTIONS FOR STUFFINGS, SAUCES AND GARNISHES.
Fish
Bass (sea)
Bluefish
Stuffing
Bread stuffing
No. 1 or 2
Bread stuffing
No. 1 or 2
Cod
Haddock
Mackerel
Shad
Tilefish
Weakfish
Whitefish
Oyster stuffing
Pickle-caper
Pickle-
Bread
No.
Bread
No.
Bread
No.
Bread
No.
caper
stuffing
1 or 2
stuffing
1 or 2
stuffing
1 or 2
stuffing
1 or 2
Sauce
Tomato sauce
Sauce made by
boiling the stock
in pan plus one
large tablespoon
catchup and one
tablespoon
browned flour
mixed with cold
water
Oyster sauce
Drawn butter, egg,
sauce, Hollan-
daise sauce
Maitre d 'hot el
sauce
Lemon-juice
Egg sauce
Garnish
Tomato and
parsley
Parsley and lem-
on slices
Lemon
Lemon and pars-
ley
Lemon
Lemon, tomatoes
Parsley
Egg
Fish That Are Good Baked in Steaks, Cutlets or Fillets
WITH SUGGESTIONS FOR SAUCES AND GARNISHES.
Fish
Cusk
Flounder
Haddock
Halibut
Mackerel (horse)
Salmon
Sturgeon
Tile
Sauce
Egg sauce
Oyster sauce
Brown, Hollandaise,
tomato or mush-
room sauce
Lemon sauce
Drawn butter
Tomato sauce
Garnish
Lemon
Egg
Lemon
Tomatoes, peas, parsley
Lemon
Parsley and lemon
Parsley and lemon
FILLET OF FLOUNDER AU GRATIN
5 pounds flounder
2 tablespoons flour
3 tablespoons butter
1 cup fine bread-crumbs
1 bay-leaf
2 cups chicken stock
1 tablespoon lemon-juice
1 slice onion
Salt and pepper
Fillet and cut the fish into pieces about four inches long by
three wide. Oil a baking or gratin dish and lay the fillets in it.
Sprinkle salt and pepper over them and set in a cool place till
needed.
Rub together flour and butter; add onion, bay -leaf, chicken
stock, and salt and pepper as needed. Simmer gently twenty
minutes and then add lemon-juice, strain the sauce and pour
it over the fish. Season lightly with salt and pepper, sprinkle
bread-crumbs over the sauce and fish. Bake twenty minutes in
a hot oven (425 F.) and serve at once in the same dish.
HALIBUT CREOLE
2 pounds halibut
2 cups stewed tomatoes
1 cup water
3 cloves
1 slice onion
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon flour
Salt and pepper
Put the tomatoes, water, cloves and onion on the stove in a
Stewpan to boil. Mix the butter and flour together, stir them
into the sauce when it boils and add the salt and pepper. Cook
ten minutes and strain into a bowl.
FISH 199
Pour boiling water into a deep plate to the depth of one-
half inch, and lay the fish in it for one minute, skin side down;
when the fish is removed from the water, the black skin can
be taken off easily. Wash the fish in cold water, season with
salt and pepper and lay it on the baking sheet in a dripping-
pan, put sliced lemon on top, then pour half the tomato sauce
around the fish and bake in a hot to moderate oven (425 to
350 F.) for thirty to forty minutes, basting three times with
the remainder of the tomato sauce. Pour the sauce remaining
in the bottom of the pan around the fish on the serving platter.
Fried or Panned Fish
After cleaning, dry the fish, sprinkle with salt and pepper,
dip in fine bread-crumbs, flour or corn-meal, then in egg, and
again in crumbs, flour or corn-meal, and fry in deep fat. (See
Index for directions for deep-fat frying.) Small fish are cooked
in this way, with or without head and tail; also fish steaks,
fillets or turbans. The skin is usually removed. In some cases
(for example, the perch) if the skin has not been removed by
the fish dealer, it is very difficult to get it off. In this case, dip
for a moment into boiling water and remove at once.
FRIED FISH Small fish are fried whole; for example, smelts,
small flounders, whitebait, small whitings, small herrings, small
perch. Larger fish such as eels, halibut, cod, large flounder and
sole are cut in four-inch lengths or made into fillets or turbans
before frying.
Fried fish are usually served with Tartar sauce, anchovy sauce
or with lemon.
PANNED FISH Clean, wash and dry fish, rub in flour which
has been seasoned with salt and pepper or dip in egg and crumbs
and saute in a saucepan in a small amount of fat. Any fish
that can be fried can be panned.
FILLET OF SOLE OR FLOUNDER
2 pounds fillet of sole or Salt and pepper
flounder Crumbs, egg
A large sole or flounder will make four fillets. Roll up each
fillet, 'or cut into smaller fillets, season with salt and pepper, dip
in egg, then in crumbs and fry in deep fat (390 F.) four to
2OO
r*~r^*~r
six minutes. For variety, cut the fillets up, simmer half of the
small fillets in salted water from six to ten minutes and then
serve with the fried ones, having the boiled ones in the center
of the dish. Serve with a white sauce, or with Tartar sauce.
Planked Fish
Scale the fish. Split it down the back, clean, wash and wipe
dry as usual. Prepare a plank of oak or hickory, about one and
one-half inch thick, and put in the oven to heat. If using a
gas stove, place it directly under the gas in the broiler, having
the side which is to hold the fish nearest the flame.
Rub the fish all over with oil, salt and pepper. Lay it skin
side down on the plank, and put the plank on the upper grate
of the oven, or under the broiler of a gas stove. Cook about
one-half hour, spreading melted fat over the fish while it is
in the oven if there is a tendency to dryness. If the fish has
roe, the roe may be broiled on the plank beside the fish, or the
roe may be boiled, mixed with a little white sauce, well seasoned,
and spread over the thinnest part of the fish, five minutes before
it is finished, and covered with crumbs.
Have ready freshly mashed potato and form a border of this
around the fish by pressing it through a pastry-bag. Set the
plank in the oven until the potato has browned, then send to
table garnished with lemon and parsley.
The size of the plank will depend on the size of the oven,
but it must be at least three inches wider than the fish. White-
fish and shad are best for planked fish.
Fish Roe and Milt
The roe (eggs) of many fish, which are available during the
Spring, make excellent and often delicate food. Shad roe are
most frequently used, but the roe of mackerel and of flounder
are just as palatable and are usually much cheaper. When small
fish contain roe, do not cook the roe in the fish; remove it and
cook it as a separate dish.
To Prepare Roe for Use
Parboil it in salted, acidulated water (one tablespoon vinegar
or legion- juice to one quart water) and simmer eight to ten
minutes. Drain, cool, and pick out the pieces of membrane;
the roe is then ready for any recipe.
FISH 201
Milt
The part of the male fish that takes the place of the roe
of female fish is called the milt, and may be prepared and
cooked in just the same way. The blue vein that runs through
the center of salmon milt should be removed before the milt is
cooked.
BROILED ROE
Wipe, sprinkle with salt and pepper, put on greased wire
broiler, and broil five minutes on each side. Serve with maitre
d'hotel sauce.
SHAD ROE CAVIAR
1 cup shad roe J4 cup salt or Y 3 cup
prepared caviar
Mash the cooked roe very carefully, then mix with the salt.
Beat thoroughly and let it stand for an hour before serving. If
preferred, the shad roe may be mixed with prepared caviar
instead of salt.
SCALLOPED ROE
1 to 2 pounds shad roe Bread-crumbs
1 cup medium white sauce Chopped parsley
Egg-yolk Salt and pepper
Lemon-juice
Parboil roe as directed, drain and break up lightly with a fork.
Sprinkle a layer of roe in a baking-dish; add one-half the yolk
of an egg, well beaten, dropping it over the top of the roe, next
sprinkle lightly with minced parsley, salt and pepper to taste
and a few drops of lemon -juice; then add a layer of the white
sauce. Repeat the layers of roe, egg, seasoning and sauce, cover
with bread-crumbs and bits of butter and bake until brown. If
a large dish is required, use with the roe any cold flaked fish left
from a former meal. Any kind of roe may be prepared in this
way.
202
Canned or Warmed-over Fish
FISH SOUFFLE
1 cup cooked fish, fresh or 2 eggs
canned l /2 cup milk
1 cup mashed potatoes Salt and pepper
Mix cold cooked fish with mashed potatoes, milk, salt and
pepper. Stir in one egg, well beaten. Put into an oiled mold
or dish and set in the oven until hot. Beat the white of the
other egg stiff and stir into it the beaten yolk seasoned with salt
and pepper; heap this over the fish and brown.
FISH TIMBALE
1 cup cooked fish, fresh or 2 cups milk or cream
canned l /2 cup butter or other fat
l /2 cup cooked mushrooms Salt, pepper and nutmeg
1 cup bread-crumbs 4 eggs
Use any delicate fish, such as halibut, whitefish, cusk or sal-
mon. Remove the bones and skin, and pound the meat very
fine, so it may be rubbed through a soup-strainer. Mushrooms
mixed with the fish before it is strained will greatly improve
its flavor.
Cook bread-crumbs ten minutes in milk or cream. Remove
from fire and add melted butter or other fat, salt, pepper or
paprika and a few gratings of nutmeg. When this is cold, add
the fish, beat the whole thoroughly, add the eggs, also well
beaten, and place the mixture in a greased or oiled mold. Cover
the mold with oiled paper, set it in a deep baking-pan, place it
in the oven, and pour water into the pan until it is within one
inch of the top of the mold. Cook for three-quarters of an
hour at 250 F. Hollandaise and tomato sauce are both ex-
cellent to serve with fish timbale.
SALMON PUFFS
2 cups cooked salmon, fresh l /2 cup soft bread-crumbs
or canned 1 tablespoon lemon-juice
Salt and pepper 3 eggs
Remove the skin and bones from the salmon, chop the meat
fine, and add salt, white pepper or paprika, soft bread-crumbs,
FISH 203
lemon- juice or vinegar, and egg-yolks. Mix thoroughly, add
the well beaten egg-whites, and place in six or eight oiled cups,
filling the cups even full. Set the cups at once in a pan contain-
ing hot water that comes to about an inch below their tops, and
bake for one-half hour in moderate oven (375 F.). Turn
out upon a hot platter, thrust a sprig of parsley or celery, or a
clove, into the center of each puff, and pour about them any
desired fish sauce.
SALMON AU GRATIN
1 cup cooked salmon, fresh or Salt and pepper
canned 2 tablespoons lemon-juice
1 cup drawn-butter sauce Bread-crumbs, cheese
Flake the cold salmon, mix with the drawn butter, salt, pep-
per and lemon -juice. Fill little earthen dishes with the mixture,
cover with fine bread-crumbs, with or without cheese, and
brown in the oven at 400 F.
SALMON LOAF
2 cups cooked salmon, fresh 4 tablespoons butter
or canned Salt and pepper
2 eggs Minced parsley
l /2 cup fine bread-crumbs
Flake the fish, add the eggs beaten lightly, the melted butter,
the bread-crumbs, salt, pepper and minced parsley. Put into a
greased mold, and steam for an hour. When cold, arrange on
a platter and garnish with slices of lemon, cucumber, and pars-
ley.
TUNAFISH WITH CAPER SAUCE
2 cups cooked tunansh, fresh 1 1 /2 cups milk
or canned 3 tablespoons capers
2 tablespoons butter Paprika
2 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon minced parsley
l /2 teaspoon salt
If canned fish is used, turn it from the can on to a plate and
steam it until it is hot. In the meantime, melt the butter, stir
in the flour and salt, and gradually add the milk. Add the
capers. Transfer the fish to a platter, pour the sauce over it
and dust lightly with paprika and parsley.
Fresh cooked fish may be heated in the sauce, or heated
separately and served with sauce poured over it.
204
KEDGEREE
2 cups cooked fish, fresh or 1 cup cooked rice
canned Salt and pepper
4 tablespoons butter or other 2 hard-cooked eggs
fat
Free the fish from skin and bone. Melt butter in a saucepan,
add the fish and stir gently. Put in the rice, the whites of the
hard-cooked eggs, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Move gently about over the fire until thoroughly hot, and serve
on a flat dish with the yolks of the eggs, pressed through a
ricer, over the top.
SCALLOPED FISH
2 cups cooked fish, fresh or 2 hard-cooked eggs
canned 2 tablespoons butter
l /z cup mashed potatoes Salt and pepper
2 cups milk 1 cup bread-crumbs
2 tablespoons corn-starch
Heat all the milk, except one-fourth cup, in a double boiler;
add the corn-starch stirred up with the remaining cold milk;
cook twenty minutes, stirring frequently. Add one table-
spoon butter, rub smooth the yolks of the eggs and add them,
and then the whites after they have been passed through a
sieve. Flake the fish, add the potatoes and season with salt and
pepper. Oil a baking-dish, put in a layer of the fish mixture,
cover with sauce, add another layer of fish, then more sauce,
and so on until all is used. Cover the top with the bread-
crumbs, add small bits of butter and bake for fifteen minutes
in a moderate oven (3 50 -400 F.).
Dried and Salt Fish
CREAMED CODFISH
1 cup salt codfish 2 tablespoons butter
1 cup milk 2 tablespoons flour
1 egg
Separate the fish into very small pieces and leave in cold
water for three hours, changing the water three times. Heat
the milk in a double boiler. Add the codfish, well drained, and
FISH 205
cook for ten minutes. Mix the butter with the flour until a
smooth paste is formed, then stir it into the milk. Cook ten
minutes. Take the dish from the heat, add the beaten egg, stir
well and serve without further cooking, adding a sprinkling
of pepper just before dishing. If the sauce is cooked after the
egg is added, the milk is likely to curdle. The egg may be
omitted.
CODFISH A LA MODE
1 cup salt codfish 2 eggs
2 cups mashed potatoes 54 cup butter or other fat
2 cups milk or cream Pepper
Pick very fine and freshen salt codfish as in preceding recipe;
mix with mashed potatoes, milk or cream, well-beaten egg, but-
ter and pepper. Turn into a baking-dish and bake twenty or
twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven (3 50 -400 F.).
CODFISH BALLS
1 cup salt codfish 2 tablespoons butter or other
4 cups sliced raw potatoes fat
2 tablespoons milk or cream 1 egg
Pepper
If the fish is not already shredded, pick out all the bones and
shred the flesh. Simmer the fish and the sliced potatoes to-
gether in plenty of water until the potatoes are soft. Drain,
mash, and beat until fine and light; then add the pepper, fat
and milk, and the egg, well beaten. Mix all thoroughly with
a spoon. Shape into balls. Fry in a frying-basket in deep fat,
(375-390 F.) for two to five minutes.
CODFISH SOUFFLE
1 cup salt codfish 1 tablespoon butter or other
2 cups raw potatoes fat
2 tablespoons milk or cream Pepper
2 eggs
Place the fish and potatoes together in enough boiling water
to cover them, and let them boil until the potatoes are done.
Drain thoroughly, mash the potatoes and fish, and beat them
well with a fork, adding white pepper, butter, milk or cream.
The mass should be made light with vigorous beating. Then
206
S/N/Vf
beat in the well-stirred yolks of two eggs, and lastly, fold in
the well-whipped whites. Arrange the souffle in an oiled bak-
ing-dish and bake in a moderate oven (375 F.) about twenty
mihutes, until it is brown. Serve with cucumber pickles,
pickled peppers, horseradish or fresh cucumbers.
SALT FISH WITH EGG GARNISH
2 cups salt fish 2 cups milk
4 tablespoons butter or other 4 tablespoons flour
fat 2 hard-cooked eggs
Soak fish over night, cook in fresh water, flake. Make a white
sauce with the fat, flour and milk. Add the flaked fish to the
white sauce and pour on to a warm platter. Cut the eggs into
slices and arrange in a circle on top. Serve at once.
SALT MACKEREL
BOILED
1 salt mackerel 4 tablespoons flour
2 cups milk 4 tablespoons butter
Pepper
Clean the fish by scraping off rusty-looking portions and also
the thin black membrane found on the inside, and leave it over
night in plenty of cold water, with the skin side up. In the
morning, drain the fish and place it in a frying-pan, skin side
down, cover with fresh water, and slowly heat to the boiling-
point. Drain off this water, add just enough fresh water to
cover the fish and simmer until tender. Lift the mackerel out
carefully (a pancake-turner will be found convenient for such
work) and place it on the serving-dish in the oven to keep
hot while the gravy is being prepared.
To one cup of the water left in the frying-pan after the
removal of the fish, add the two cups of milk. When the
liquid boils, add the flour stirred to a paste with the fat, and
season with salt and pepper. Let the gravy boil slowly three
or four minutes, stirring constantly until smooth. Pour it
over the mackerel.
BAKED Prepare the fish as for boiling but place it in a shal-
low baking-pan just large enough to hold it, and pour over it
the milk. Bake twenty minutes in a hot oven (400 -42 5 F.)
stirring into the milk at the end of fifteen minutes a smooth
FISH 207
paste made of two tablespoons of flour and two tablespoons of
fat, with a sprinkling of pepper. Serve with the thickened milk
poured around the fish.
BROILED SALT FISH
Soak in tepid water twenty-four hours, changing the water
several times. At the hour wanted, broil, season to taste, dot-
ting with bits of butter. All kinds of salt fish may be broiled
in this way.
BROILED FINNAN HADDIE
1 finnan haddie Oil Lemon-juice
Soak the fish in cold water for three-quarters of an hour,
then lay in boiling water for five minutes. Wipe very dry,
rub oil and lemon-juice into the fish and broil over a clear fire
for fifteen minutes. Serve with hot butter sauce.
CREAMED FINNAN HADDIE
1 cup flaked finnan haddie, 1 cup medium white sauce
fresh-cooked or canned Salt, pepper, paprika
If the whole fish is used, put it in a baking-pan, cover with
cold water, and after soaking twenty minutes, bring the water
to a boil. Reduce the heat and allow it to simmer for one-half
hour. Drain, rinse, and with a fork separate the fish into flakes.
Canned finnan haddie should be steamed. To one cup of fish,
add one cup of medium white sauce. Bring to a boil; season
with salt, pepper and a liberal quantity of paprika.
Oysters
Oysters, to be safe and palatable food, must be perfectly
fresh. Buy them in the shells, if possible, and when purchas-
ing them without shells be sure that the liquor is clear; if it
is cloudy, the oysters should not be used.
Opening and Cleaning Oysters
To open an oyster, hold it firmly with the thick part of the
shell toward the palm of the hand. Wash the shell thoroughly.
Push a strong, thin knife between the shells near the back and
run it along until it cuts the strong muscle which holds the
208
shells together. Drop the oysters into a strainer, set over a
bowl, and save the liquor that drains through to be used in
cooking the oysters or making soup or sauce. Then examine
each oyster and with the fingers remove all particles of shell.
They are then ready to be used in any way desired.
OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL
Raw oysters are served either on the half shell packed in
crushed ice, on oyster plates, or in a block of ice. Allow to
each person five or six oysters and one-fourth of a lemon, and
pass with the oysters crackers or thin slices of delicately buttered
brown or graham bread.
OYSTER COCKTAIL
30 medium oysters 1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons prepared horse- 2 tablespoons vinegar
radish 4 tablespoons lemon-juice
3 tablespoons tomato catchup % teaspoon tabasco sauce
Where oysters in the shell are obtainable, they are usually
served on the half shell, on a plate of crushed ice, around a
small glass holding the cocktail mixture. When it is not pos-
sible to get the oysters in the shell, cocktails may be served in
ice shells made for this purpose, or in cases made from green-
pepper shells, in halves of grapefruit, or in large claret glasses.
Put five medium oysters into each glass and pour the dressing
over them. To make the dressing, mix horseradish, tomato
catchup and vinegar, lemon-juice, tabasco sauce, and salt
thoroughly. Both oysters and dressing should be very cold.
PANNED OYSTERS
1 pint large oysters % CU P oyster-juice
6 slices buttered toast
Lay the oysters in a shallow dripping-pan, and pour over
them a small quantity of oyster-juice, but not sufficient to raise
or float them. Place the dish carefully in a hot oven (400-
425 F.) and just heat the oysters through. Be careful not
to bake them. Moisten hot buttered toast with the hot juice
from the oysters and serve the oysters on the toast.
FISH 209
LITTLE PIGS IN BLANKETS OR OYSTER BUNDLES
24 large oysters Salt and pepper
24 very thin slices fat bacon Parsley
Season the oysters with salt and pepper. "Wrap one oyster
in each slice of bacon and fasten with a toothpick. Heat a
frying pan and put in the oysters. Cook on one side and then
on the other just long enough to crisp the bacon, about five
minutes. Cut slices of toast into quarters and place one oyster
on each small slice of toast. Serve immediately, garnished with
parsley.
CREAMED OYSTERS
1 pint oysters 6 tablespoons flour
4 tablespoons butter or other 1 pint rich milk
fat Salt and pepper
Heat the oysters in their own liquor until the edges curl.
Make a white sauce with the fat, flour and milk. Combine the
oysters and sauce, add seasoning and serve.
OYSTERS A LA POULETTE
1 pint oysters Nutmeg
1 1 /4 cups milk or cream 2\ egg-yolks or 1 whole egg
1 tablespoon butter 2 tablespoons flour
Salt and pepper Cayenne
Set the oysters on the stove to heat in their own liquor. As
soon as they begin to boil, skim carefully and turn them into
a strainer. Add one-half cup of oyster liquor to one cup of
milk or cream and make a white sauce with the fat, flour and
this liquid. Season with salt, pepper, a slight grating of nut-
meg and a grain of cayenne. Add one-fourth cup of cold
milk or cream to the well-beaten egg or yolks of eggs. Place the
oysters in the white sauce and add to the egg mixture. Cook
over hot water for three minutes, or until the eggs thicken,
stirring all the time; remove from fire immediately to pre-
vent separating. Serve with a border of puff-paste cakes,
buttered toast or baking-powder biscuit. If liked, one-half
tablespoon of lemon-juice may be added just as the oysters are
taken from the fire.
2IO
FRIED OYSTERS
1 pint oysters 2 eggs
1 y 2 cups milk 2 cups flour
1 teaspoon salt
Scald the oysters in their own liquor, and drain them
thoroughly on a cloth. Make a batter with the milk, egg, flour
and salt and dip the oysters in it. Fry a light brown, in deep
fat (375-390 F., two to five minutes) drain and serve.
Seasoned bread-crumbs may be used instead of the batter.
OYSTERS COOKED IN THE SHELL
30 oysters in the shell Salt
Butter Pepper
Wash the shells thoroughly by scrubbing with a brush. Place
in a baking-pan with the deep shell down. Set into a very
hot oven (450-500 F.) and bake until the shells open. Or,
cover the pan, set it over a pot of boiling water, and steam
until the shells open. Add a little butter, salt, and pepper to
each oyster and serve immediately in the shells.
OYSTERS EN BROCHETTE
30 large oysters 6 slices toast % pound bacon
Cut the bacon into thin strips and cut the strips into pieces
an inch or an inch and a half square. String the oysters and
bacon squares alternately on six long, slender steel skewers,
being careful to run the skewers through the hard part of
the oysters. Place the skewers across a narrow, deep baking-
tin so that the oysters will hang down but not touch the bottom
of the tin; leave space between the skewers so that the heat will
pass evenly around them. Cook in a very hot oven (450-
475 F.) for five minutes, or long enough to crisp the bacon.
Place a skewer on each slice of toast. Pour the juice in the
pan over the toast and serve immediately.
BROILED OYSTERS
30 large oysters Salt and pepper
Butter Bread-crumbs, if desired
Dry the oysters on a towel; sprinkle them with salt and pep-
per and lay them in an oyster broiler (a fine-mesh broiler).
FISH 211
Brown on both sides. Serve on a hot plate with melted butter
poured over them. The oysters may be rolled in bread-crumbs
before broiling, if preferred.
OYSTERS WITH MUSHROOMS
1 cup oysters 3 tablespoons butter or other
1 cup cooked mushrooms fat
(fresh or canned) 1 teaspoon onion- juice
V/2 cups milk ^teaspoon lemon- juice
3 tablespoons flour 2 egg-yolks or 1 egg
l /z teaspoon salt
Drain the oysters and put them into a hot pan. Cook until
the edges begin to curl, then remove to a hot dish. Make a
sauce by adding to the oyster liquor the juice from the mush-
rooms, and enough milk to make a pint. Thicken this with
the flour blended with the butter or other fat and cook two
to five minutes. Add chopped mushrooms, onion-juice, lemon-
juice and a little salt.
Beat the yolks of the eggs; add a little of the hot mixture,
slowly, then all of it. Add the oysters, and cook over hot
water until the sauce thickens, stirring constantly. Remove
from the fire and serve at once.
BAKED OYSTERS WITH SPAGHETTI
l /4 pound spaghetti l l /2 cups milk
1 pint oysters 2 tablespoons flour
Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons butter or other
1 cup bread-crumbs fat
% cup melted fat
Break the spaghetti into small pieces, boil it in plenty of salted
boiling water until it is quite tender, and then drain. Scald
the oysters in their own liquor, reserving the liquor. Oil a
baking-dish, put in a layer of the spaghetti and then a layer o
the oysters, season with salt and pepper, and repeat the layers
until all the oysters and spaghetti are used, finishing with a
layer of spaghetti. To the liquor from the oysters, add enough
milk to make a pint, reserving a small quantity to mix with the
flour. Scald the remainder, add the scalded milk to the
moistened flour, stir well and cook twenty minutes in a double
boiler. Take from the fire, add the melted fat and pour over
the layers in the dish. Top with bread-crumbs mixed with
212
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melted fat (see recipe for buttered crumbs), and bake in a
quick oven (400 -450 F.) just long enough to brown the
crumbs, about ten minutes.
OYSTERS SAUTEED
30 oysters Salt and pepper
Bread or cracker-crumbs Fat for sauteing
Drain the oysters well, season with salt and pepper and roll
in fine bread or cracker-crumbs. Place two or three tablespoons
fat in a saucepan and when it becomes very hot drop in enough
oysters to cover the bottom of the pan. When one side is
browned, turn the oysters carefully to brown the other side.
Add more fat as needed. The iron pancake griddle is often
used for this purpose, when many oysters are to be cooked at
one time. Serve very hot on toast.
SCALLOPED OYSTERS
1 pint oysters 6 tablespoons butter or other
2 cups soft bread-crumbs fat
l /4 cup milk Salt and pepper
Oil a baking-dish; put in a layer of crumbs, then a layer of
oysters, butter or other fat in little pieces, salt and pepper.
Repeat, ending with a layer of crumbs, with small pieces of fat
dotted over them. Do not have more than two layers of oysters.
Moisten with milk and oyster liquor mixed together. Bake in
a moderate oven (350-400 F.) until brown, about half an
hour, and serve in the same dish.
OYSTER CASINO
30 oysters in the shell Pepper and salt
Lemon-juice 30 one-inch squares sliced
Buttered crumbs bacon
Wash and open the oysters. Into each shell put a half -tea-
spoon of strained oyster liquor, a few drops of lemon- juice,
then the oyster sprinkled with pepper and salt and covered with
buttered crumbs. On each lay an inch square of bacon and set
in a hot oven (400 -450 F.) for ten or twelve minutes. Shal-
low ovenware dishes, with the half -shells embedded in coarse
salt, are excellent for this purpose. The salt keeps the shells
from tipping during baking. Where shells are not available.
FISH 213
arrange the oysters for each portion in a shallow ramekin.
These are excellent for Sunday-night supper or as a luncheon
dish.
DEVILED OYSTERS
1 pint oysters 1 cup milk or cream
3 tablespoons butter or other 2 egg-yolks
fat Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
Drain the oysters, chop them, not too fine, and drain again.
Make a white sauce with two tablespoons of the fat, the flour
and the milk, remove from the fire and add the beaten yolks,
the salt, pepper and parsley, and then the oysters. Fill small
ramekins with the mixture, sprinkle lightly with soft bread
crumbs, dot with fat, arrange in a baking-pan, and brown in a
quick oven (400 -42 5 F., about seven minutes).
Clams
Clams, like oysters, should be purchased in the shell whenever
possible. The shell opens when the animal dies, making it easy
to discard the bad ones. A dead clam is dangerous food.
If obtained the day before they are to be used, cover the
clams with cold water and sprinkle corn-meal over the top of
the water, using about one cup of corn-meal for a peck of
clams. Let them stand over night.
To open clams steam in tightly covered vessel and if the
clams are not to be served at once, remove them from the shells
and drop them into cold water, to keep them from becoming
tough. A peck will yield about a quart of clams without the
shells.
Cut off the siphons of large clams,, as that part is very tough,
and if the clams have not been treated with corn-meal, open
the stomachs with a pair of scissors and scrape out the debris.
Wash the clams well, to remove all sand.
CLAMS ON THE HALF SHELL
Small clams are served raw on the half shell, just as raw
oysters are served. (See Index.)
CLAM COCKTAIL
Follow recipe for oyster cocktail. (See Index. )'
214
CLAMS COOKED IN THE SHELL
STEAMED
30 clams in the shell Juice of l / 2 lemon
6 tablespoons butter Salt and pepper
The hard-shell clam is used for steaming. Scrub the shell
with a brush and wash free of sand in several waters. Steam
the clams in a steamer for ten minutes, or until opened. While
the clams are steaming, melt the butter and mix with the
lemon-juice, salt and pepper. Lay a napkin on a hot platter
and place the clams in their shells on this. Cover with a
second napkin and serve. In eating, remove the clam from
the shell and dip it into the sauce. The thin, tough part known
as the neck or siphon is not eaten.
ROASTED IN THE OVEN Prepare the clams as for steaming,
put them into a pan, set the pan in a hot oven (400-425 F.)
and bake until the shells open. Remove the top shell, being
careful not to spill the liquor. Arrange the clams in the half-
shells on plates and on each place a piece of butter and a little
pepper and salt. Add lemon- juice if desired. Serve imme-
diately.
CLAM-BAKE ROAST The seashore is the natural place for a
clam-bake, but it is possible to have one at any place where
there is a flat open space. Preparations should begin several
hours before the time set for the meal.
Make a circle of flat stones from two to four feet in
diameter, according to the size of the party and on this circle
build a hot fire of wood. Let this burn for two or three hours.
Then rake off the fire and cover the hot stones with fresh sea-
weed. On this lay fresh clams in their shells; also, if desired,
oysters, potatoes in the skins, corn in the husk, and anything
else that may be steamed. Cover with a thick layer of sea-
weed^ and over all spread a large piece of sailcloth, fastening
down the edges with stones. Leave for two or three hours;
remove the cloth and the top layer of seaweed, and rake out
the clams and other foods as needed.
The same materials may be cooked in a large kettle at home
using cheese-cloth between the layers, but will lack the fine
flavor of the real clam-bake.
FISH 215
CREAMED CLAMS
1 cup clams 2 tablespoons flour
1/2 cup milk 6 slices toast
1/2 cup clam-juice Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons butter or other Parsley
fat
Bake the clams in a pan, scalding them in their own liquor,
or steam them and then remove from the shell, being sure to
save the juice. Chop and add them to a white sauce made from
the milk, clam-juice, flour, seasoning, and fat. Serve on slices of
toast with parsley as a garnish.
DEVILED CLAMS
25 clams, fresh or canned 2 tablespoons bread-crumbs
1 tablespoon butter or other 2 egg-yolks
fat 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
2 tablespoons flour Salt and pepper
1 cup milk or cream
Drain the clams and rinse them in cold water. Make a white
sauce with the fat, flour, and milk or cream, and put in the
crumbs, the raw egg-yolks, and the parsley. Remove from the
fire, add the chopped clams, pepper to taste and salt if needed,
fill scallop or clam shells, or small ramekins, with the mixture,
brush them over with beaten yolk of egg, sprinkle with bread-
crumbs, and brown in a hot oven (400 K).
FRIED SOFT CLAMS
Wash soft clams (fresh or canned) and drain them upon a
soft cloth, wiping them dry. Then dip each clam first into
beaten egg and next into bread-crumbs, and, if much breading
is liked, dip them again into the egg and crumbs. Have a sauce-
pan containing hot fat (390 F.) about an inch deep. If you
have no thermometer, test the fat by dropping in a bit of the
soft part of bread. It should color to a golden hue in from
40 to 50 seconds. Lay the clams in the fat, one at a time
but as quickly as possible, and cook them until brown (about
one to two minutes) , Serve very hot.
2l6
SCALLOPED CLAMS
18 opened clams 48 very small dice of fat
6 large clams in shell bacon
White pepper 4 tablespoons cracker-dust
2 tablespoons minced celery 2 tablespoons butter or other
fat
Have the clams opened carefully, so that the shells will not
be broken. Clean the shells well with brush and water. Lay
two clams in each half shell, dust with white pepper, and one-
half teaspoon of minced celery, and add four of the bacon
dice; cover with a very thin layer of cracker-dust, put a half
teaspoon fat on top and bake in the oven (3 50 -400 F.) fif-
teen to thirty minutes.
Scallops
The nearly round, ribbed shell of the scallop is known to
many who have never seen the scallop itself. Only those who
live in seashore towns ever see the whole bivalve, as the non-
edible portions are discarded before the edible part, the large
adductor muscle, is sent to market.
FRIED SCALLOPS
1 pint scallops, fresh or Cracker-crumbs
canned Beaten egg
Salt and pepper
Wash the scallops, drain them and dry them thoroughly.
Season fine cracker-crumbs with salt and pepper, dip the scallops
in beaten egg, then in the crumbs, and fry in hot fat 360 F.^
for two minutes. If preferred, they may be simply seasoned
and rolled in flour and then fried. Serve with Tartar sauce.
BROILED SCALLOPS
Use recipe for broiled oysters. (See Index.) Either fresh or
canned scallops may be used.
I
s.
FISH 217
CREAMED SCALLOPS
1 pint scallops, fresh or 1 pint thin white
canned sauce
"Wash and drain the scallops, add them to the sauce and cook
about fifteen minutes in a double boiler.
Sea Mussels
Sea mussels are as agreeable to the taste as oysters, and may
be eaten when oysters are out of season. Canned mussels are
obtainable nearly everywhere. When fresh mussels are used,
the shells may be opened by steaming, or with a knife. The
horny "beard" must be removed and discarded.
PANNED MUSSELS
30 mussels in the shell Cayenne
2 tablespoons butter Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons flour Lemon-juice
Wash the shell with a brush in cold water, and open by steam-
ing. Remove the mussels from the shells, place them in a
saucepan, add the butter, salt and pepper, cayenne, and a dash
of lemon-juice. Mix the flour with an equal quantity of cold
water and rub out all the lumps, then add more water to make
it about as thick as rich cream. Pour in a thin stream into the
hot mixture, stirring constantly. As soon as the boiling-
point is reached, remove from the fire and serve. Mussels, like
oysters and clams, are made tough by over-cooking.
FRIED MUSSELS
Use recipe for fried oysters. (See Index.)
CREAMED MUSSELS
Use recipe for creamed oysters. (See Index.)
Lobster
Lobsters are in season from June to September, and it is possi-
ble to obtain them at any time of the year. The shell of a live
218
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lobster is usually a mottled dark green. Boiling makes the shells
of all lobsters turn bright red.
Uncooked lobsters should be alive when purchased. In buy-
ing a boiled lobster, straighten its tail; if it springs back into
place, the lobster was alive, as it should have been, when boiled.
To Boil and Dress a Lobster
Plunge the live lobster into boiling water, head downward.
Add one tablespoon of salt, cover the kettle and keep it boiling.
A medium-sized lobster will cook in about twenty minutes.
Plunge it into cold water when done and when cool enough to
handle, take the meat from the shell in the following order:
Chop off the claws. Split the body lengthwise, remove and
throw away the stomach, a small sac just back of the head.
Running from the stomach to the base of the tail is the in-
testinal canal. If this does not pull out with the stomach, it
must be lifted out with a fork, in pieces, if necessary, and re-
moved entirely.
Crack the claws and remove the meat. If the lobster is not
to be served whole, take out the meat from the body, the
creamy green fat which constitutes the liver, and the coral or
spawn found in female lobsters. The spongy particles between
the meat and shell are not used.
In cutting up the meat of cooked lobster, always use a silver
knife or one of stainless steel, if possible, as an ordinary steel
knife discolors or darkens the meat.
COLD LOBSTER EN COQUILLES, WITH
MAYONNAISE
This is simply cold boiled lobster, served in the shell, a spoon-
ful of mayonnaise, colored red with the coral of the lobster,
being laid on top of the lobster meat and the whole served in
a bed of lettuce leaves. Canned lobster meat also makes a very
nice dish served with lettuce and mayonnaise.
BROILED LIVE LOBSTER
1 lobster Melted butter
Salt and pepper
Kill the fish by inserting a sharp knife in its back between
the body and tail shells, severing the spinal cord. Split length-
FISH 219
wise, remove the stomach and intestinal canal, crack the large
claws and lay the fish as flat as possible. Brush the meat with
fat; season with salt and pepper, place in a broiler, with the
shell side down, and broil slowly until of a delicate brown.
Twenty minutes is usually long enough. Turn the broiler and
broil for ten minutes longer. Serve hot, with melted butter.
BAKED LIVE LOBSTER
Prepare as for broiling. Lay the lobster in a baking-pan, shell
side down, season with salt, pepper and butter. Bake about
forty minutes in a hot oven (400 F.), basting it twice with
melted butter.
LOBSTER FARCI
2 lobsters 1 tablespoon parsley
1 cup milk Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon butter Nutmeg
1 tablespoon flour 3 egg-yolks, hard cooked
2 tablespoons bread-crumbs
Boil the lobsters and cut the meat into small pieces. In open-
ing the lobsters be careful not to break the body or tail shells.
Make a white sauce with the milk, butter and flour. Remove
from the fire and add the crumbs, parsley, lobster, salt and pep-
per, a grating of nutmeg and the yolks of the eggs mashed very
fine. Mix all well together. "Wash the shells and wipe them
dry, and with a pair of scissors cut off the under part of the
tail shells. Join the large ends of both tail shells to one body
shell, to form a boat-shaped receptacle. Put the lobster mixture
into this boat, brush over the top with beaten egg, sprinkfe
lightly with bread-crumbs, and bake in a moderate oven (350-
400 F.) fifteen to thirty minutes.
CREAMED LOBSTER, SALMON OR TUNA
No. 1.
2 tablespoons butter or other 1 teaspoon salt
fat 1 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons flour 2 cups boiled or canned lobster,
1 cup milk salmon or tuna
Make a white sauce with the fat, flour and milk. Add sea-
food cut into small pieces and the salt and pepper. Some cooks
add a teaspoon of curry-powder.
22O
No. 2.
2 cups fresh or canned 3 eggs
lobster 2 teaspoons anchovy sauce
1 cup milk 3 tablespoons cream
1 cup soft bread-crumbs Salt, pepper and cayenne
Heat the milk and pour it over the bread-crumbs. When
nearly cold, add the beaten eggs, the lobster chopped fine,
anchovy sauce, salt and pepper, and a large pinch of cayenne.
Stir well, then add cream. Pour into an oiled mold, cover with
an oiled paper and steam one hour. Serve with anchovy or
other fish sauce.
DEVILED OR SCALLOPED LOBSTER
2 cups fresh or canned lobster Nutmeg
1 cup soft bread-crumbs 1 tablespoon butter or other
1 hard-cooked egg fat
2 teaspoons lemon-juice 1 tablespoon flour
Salt 1 cup milk
Cayenne
Cut the lobster meat into dice. Add one-half cup of bread-
crumbs, the egg chopped very fine and the lemon -juice, season-
ing generously with salt and cayenne pepper and a grating of
nutmeg. Make a white sauce of the fat, flour and milk. Add
the white sauce to the lobster mixture to make a paste. Fill
scallop-shells or shallow ramekins with the mixture, smooth
the tops, sprinkle with remaining bread-crumbs and bake in a
moderate oven (3 50 -400 F.) from fifteen to thirty minutes.
LOBSTER WITH CORAL SAUCE
No. 1.
1 medium-sized lobster 2 tablespoons flour
3 tablespoons butter or other 1 pint boiling water
fat 2 tablespoons lemon-juice
Cut the meat of the boiled lobster into small pieces and mash
the coral with a tablespoon of fat. Rub the flour and the rest
of the fat to a smooth paste. Add boiling water and cook five
minutes, then add the coral and butter and lemon- juice. Sim-
mer for four minutes. Strain the sauce over the lobster meat^
place the whole on the fire and boil up once.
FISH 221
No. 2.
1 medium-sized boiled lobster l /z pint drawn-butter sauce
Salt and pepper
Break up the coral and put it on a paper in a slow oven
(250-300 F.) for thirty minutes. Then pound it and set it
aside. Chop the lobster meat, not too fine, and add it to the
sauce, also putting in a pinch of the coral and salt and pepper to
taste. The effect is spoiled if the lobster is cut too fine. The
sauce should be like a creamy bed for the lobster. Serve in a
shallow dish with the pounded coral sprinkled over the top.
Crabs
The blue crab, found on the Atlantic Coast and in the Gulf
of Mexico, is about two and one-half inches long by five inches
wide. The Dungeness crab of the Pacific Coast is much larger.
Crabs go through a molting season, in the Spring and Summer.
During the few days between the shedding of the old shell and
the hardening of the new one, they are called soft-shell crabs.
At other times, they are called hard-shell crabs.
Oyster crabs are tiny, almost transparent, grayish-white
crabs found in the shells with oysters. They are often served
in oyster stews.
Dressing Crabs
All uncooked crabs should be vigorously alive when pur-
chased, or the meat is not good. To prepare them for cooking,
proceed as follows:
SOFT-SHELL CRABS The back of the crab tapers to a point
at each side. Lay the crab on its face, take one of these points
between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand and pull the
shell back about half-way. Pull off all the spongy substance
which is thus exposed. Repeat the operation at the point on
the opposite side. Pull off the tail (apron) which laps under
the crab, and the spongy substance under it. Wash the crabs
in cold water, and they are ready for cooking.
HARD-SHELL CRABS Throw the live crabs head first into
rapidly boiling water. After five minutes, add one tablespoon
of salt and boil for thirty minutes. When cold, break off the
apron, or tail. Take the crab in both hands, with the thumbs
at the tail end, and pull the upper and lower shells apart. Dis-
222
wx>^
card the material that sticks to the upper shell and pull off
all the orange waxy material and white spongy substance be-
tween the halves of the body and at each side. The edible part
of the crab lies in the two compact masses remaining, and in
the small flakes that may be extracted from the large claws.
The latter must be broken with a cleaver or hammer.
BROILED SOFT-SHELL CRABS
6 soft-shell crabs Salt and pepper
l /4 cup butter or other fat % teaspoon cayenne
2 tablespoons lemon-juice Flour
Prepare the crabs as directed. In a deep plate melt butter
or other fat, and add lemon-juice, salt, pepper, and cayenne.
Roll the crabs first in this mixture, then in dry flour. Place
them in a double broiler and broil over hot coals eight minutes.
FRIED SOFT-SHELL CRABS
6 soft-shell crabs Sifted bread-crumbs
Egg Salt and pepper
Oil
Prepare the crabs as directed, dip them in beaten egg, then
in sifted bread-crumbs seasoned with salt and pepper. Fry in
deep fat (360 F.) three to five minutes. Or, saute in a fry-
ing-pan with just enough fat to keep them from scorching.
Turn so that both sides are cooked.
DEVILED CRABS
12 hard-shell crabs or 1 cup milk or cream
2 cups crab-meat 2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon mustard 1 l /z cups soft bread-crumbs
1 teaspoon salt Nutmeg
3 tablespoons butter or other l /2 tablespoon chopped parsley
fat l /2 tablespoon lemon-juice
Prepare the crabs as directed. Wash the upper shells
thoroughly. Heat the milk or cream in a small saucepan;
thoroughly mix the flour and mustard and two tablespoons of
the fat and stir the scalded milk or cream into this mixture.
Boil two minutes, remove from the fire and add the crab-meat
and seasonings. Mix well, and put the mixture into six crab
FISH 223
shells. Sprinkle with the crumbs and place the remainder of the
butter, cut in small pieces, on top of the crumbs. Cook on the
grate in a hot oven (400 F.) until the crumbs are brown.
Serve on a bed of parsley, garnishing with the claws.
CRAB COCKTAIL
Follow recipe for oyster cocktail. (See Index.)
CREAMED CRABS
12 hard-shell crabs or 1 tablespoon butter or other
2 cups canned crab-meat fat
1 tablespoon flour Salt and pepper
l /z cup milk Cayenne
Prepare the crabs as directed. To white sauce made from
the fat, flour and milk, add the shredded crab-meat and season
with salt, pepper and cayenne. Serve very hot in individual
cases, patty shells or on toast.
SCALLOPED CRABS
l l /2 cups crab-meat, fresh 2 cups milk
or canned Parsley
5 tablespoons butter or other 1 teaspoon onion-juice
fat Salt and pepper
4 tablespoons flour 1 cup soft bread-crumbs
Make white sauce of four tablespoons of the fat, flour and
milk, add a little chopped parsley, onion- juice, salt and pepper.
Mix this with the crab-meat and one-half cup bread-crumbs.
Fill shells or ramekins, place crumbs on top, dot over with one
tablespoon butter, and bake in a moderate oven (3 50 -400
F.) from fifteen to thirty minutes.
FRIED OYSTER CRABS
1 pint oyster crabs Flour
Place crabs in sieve and hold under a cold-water faucet.
Drain, roll in flour and fry in deep fat (360 F.) for two to
three minutes, using a frying-basket. Drain on paper and
serve on a napkin laid on a platter. Garnish with four lemon-
baskets holding Tartar sauce. Or, fill pastry or paper cases
with the fried crabs and serve very hot.
224
OYSTER CRABS AND WHITEBAIT
1 cup oyster crabs Flour
1 cup whitebait
Mix equal quantities of oyster crabs and whitebait, both of
which have been previously washed, drained and rolled in flour,
and fry in deep fat (360 F.) for two to three minutes. Serve
with Tartar sauce.
Shrimps and Prawns
Shrimps and prawns are very similar, but the prawn is larger
than the shrimp; the former is often six or seven inches long,
while the latter is seldom more than two inches.
To PREPARE FRESH SHRIMPS, simmer them in salted water,
wash and drain. Remove the shell carefully, also the black line
that runs the length of the body.
CREAMED SHRIMPS
2 cups cooked shrimps, 4 tablespoons flour
fresh or canned 2 cups milk
2 tablespoons butter or other Salt and pepper
fat
Make a white sauce with the fat, flour and milk, add shrimps,
whole or broken into small pieces. When thoroughly heated,
add seasoning and serve.
SCALLOPED SHRIMPS
2 cups cooked shrimps, 1 cup bread-crumbs
fresh or canned 2 cups boiling water
4 tablespoons butter or other 1 teaspoon lemon-juice
fat 1 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons flour 1/2 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon mustard
Prepare shrimps as directed. Melt three and one-half table-
spoons of the fat in a saucepan. Add the flour and mustard and
beat until light. Gradually pour the hot water on this. Place
the saucepan on a fire, and stir the contents until they begin to
boil. Add the lemon-juice, salt and pepper, and cook for six
minutes, then stir in the shrimps. Turn the mixture into a shal-
FISH 225
low scallop-dish, cover with the bread-crumbs and dot with the
half-tablespoon of butter broken into little bits. Bake for
twenty minutes in a moderate oven (350 F.).
DEVILED SHRIMPS
1 cup shrimps, fresh or canned 3 hard-cooked eggs
3 tablespoons butter or other Paprika
fat 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
4 tablespoons flour Few drops onion-juice
2 cups milk Buttered crumbs
Prepare shrimps as directed. Melt the fat, add the flour and
stir until smooth. Add the milk, heat, stirring constantly, and
when it begins to thicken, add the eggs, which have been put
through the sieve. Cut the shrimps with a silver knife, and
add to the sauce; season with the paprika, parsley, and onion-
juice. Put the mixture in ramekins, cover with seasoned
crumbs, and brown in a quick oven.
Fresh- Water Crawfish
Crawfish, or crayfish, look like lobsters, but are much smaller.
They may be prepared and served in the same way as lobsters.
Cook the crawfish in boiling salted water, drain, and remove
the shell. Take out the intestines by pinching the extreme end
of the center fin and jerking it suddenly. This removes the
gall-cyst, which is very bitter.
Frogs
Frogs' legs (hindquarters only) are considered quite a deli-
cacy. The skin can be turned over and slipped off the legs,
like a glove taken off inside out.
FRIED FROGS' LEGS
6 frogs' legs Salt and pepper
1 egg Fine bread-crumbs
Lemon-juice
Skin the legs and wash them in cold water; dry well on a
towel or napkin. Season with salt, pepper and lemon-juice.
Beat the egg, and season it with salt and pepper; dip the legs into
226
r*S>~^S
the egg, then into dried bread-crumbs or fine cracker-crumbs,
plunge them into deep fat (390 F.) and fry two to three
minutes. Use a wire frying-basket, if possible. Frogs' legs are
served for breakfast or luncheon and for the latter meal they
are accompanied by Tartar sauce.
Turtles and Terrapins
These animals should be alive when purchased. If the large
southern variety, the soft-shell or snapping turtles are used, cut
off the head and let the turtle lie in cold water one-half hour
or hang on a hook with neck down until blood stops dripping.
Then wash and drop into boiling water and cook for ten
minutes. Pour off the water and cover the turtle with cold
water, letting it stand until cool enough to handle easily; then
with a towel rub the nails and black skin from the legs.
Wash the turtle carefully, place it in a saucepan covered
with boiling water and simmer until the flesh is tender. This
will be when the joints of the legs can be broken with a slight
pressure, and the shells separate easily. It will take from thirty
to sixty minutes. It should be cooked until the skin is like
jelly. Remove the turtle from the water, and after it has cooled
a little, place it on its back with the head away from you, and
loosen and remove the under shell.
The liver, gall bladder and sand bag will be found near the
head end, the gall being attached to the left side of the liver.
Take out the gall as you would that of a chicken, being care-
ful not to break it. Remove the entrails and throw them away.
Take out the eggs, if there are any, remove the slight mem-
brane and drop them into cold water. Cut all the meat very
fine, saving any water that may collect in the shells. The turtle
is now ready to use in a stew or in other ways.
If terrapin is used, wash and plunge it alive into boiling
salted water, and cook for about ten minutes. Then plunge
it into cold water, rub off the toe nails and dark skin, place
it again in salted boiling water and cook until the legs are
tender, from thirty to sixty minutes. Clean the terrapin ac-
cording to directions for turtles, but instead of throwing away
the small intestines, cut them in very small pieces and use them
for food. Discard the thick, heavy part of the intestines.
FISH 227
TERRAPIN OR TURTLE A LA KING
2 cups cooked terrapin or 2 cups cream or rich milk
turtle meat Salt and pepper
6 yolks hard-cooked eggs Allspice
2 tablespoons butter or other Nutmeg
fat
Mash the yolks of the hard-cooked eggs and mix them with
the fat. Put the cream or rich milk into a double boiler; when
it is scalded, stir in the egg and fat mixture and beat till smooth;
season with salt, pepper and gratings of allspice and nutmeg.
Add the terrapin or turtle meat cut fine and simmer for ten
minutes. Serve very hot. Terrapin is very often served in indi-
vidual metal cups or saucepans with covers.
TERRAPIN WITH MUSHROOMS
1 pint cooked terrapin meat Yz pint chopped mushrooms
1 pint medium white sauce Six slices toast
To white sauce add terrapin cut in inch pieces and chopped
mushrooms. Cook in double boiler for twenty minutes, or
until thoroughly hot. Serve on toast.
SHRIMP CREOLE
1/2 medium-sized onion, Dash of cayenne
chopped y 4 teaspoon thyme
y 2 cup chopped mushrooms 1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons butter 2 pimientos, chopped
2 tablespoons flour 2 cups cooked shrimps
1 cup mushroom broth 4 wheat biscuits
1 cup water Butter
1/2 teaspoon salt 3 sprigs parsley
y & teaspoon pepper
Saute onion and mushrooms in butter 3 minutes; stir in flour
and cook 1 minute, then add liquid gradually and cook until
thickened, stirring constantly. Add seasonings and shrimps and
cook 5 minutes. Serve on wheat biscuits, cut in half length-
wise, toasted and buttered, and garnish with parsley, or in ring
molds of rice or spaghetti.
MEAT
THE name meat is given generally to all edible flesh of ani-
mals used for food. The name beef is used for the flesh
of adult cattle; veal for the flesh of calves under one year of
age; pork for the flesh of swine; mutton for the flesh of adult
sheep and lamb for the flesh of sheep from six weeks to one
year old.
SELECTION OF MEAT
There are certain characteristics of good meat which serve
as a guide to the purchaser. Flecks of fat all through the fibers
indicate tenderness and flavor. Thin connecting tissue means
a tender cut; thick tissue, a tough one. Meat well ripened or
hung some time after slaughter is more tender than freshly
killed meat. Meat of any kind should have a fresh odor and
no dark, dry edges or spots.
Beef
Good beef should have a bright red color and a moist juicy
surface when freshly cut; firm, fine-grained muscle; dry,
crumbly suet, white in color; and a thick solid edge of straw-
colored fat.
Veal
Veal should be at least six weeks old before slaughter. The
sale of "bob" veal is prohibited in many states; it is soft and
of poor flavor. Prime veal should be a faint pink color with
little or no edge of fat. Flecks of fat in the meat should show
a pinkish tinge. Milk-fed veal is particularly good.
Pork
Pork should have firm white flesh with a faint pink tinge.
The fat should be clear white. Pork of dull appearance, with
yellowish lumps through the meat or fat should be avoided.
228
MEAT 229
Lamb and Mutton
Lamb may be distinguished from mutton by the bones. In
young lamb, the bones are slightly streaked with red and the
joint is serrated. The joint of mutton is smooth and round.
Lamb or mutton should have a deep pink flesh, hard white kid-
ney fat, thin edge fat of a pinkish tinge, and firm, fine-grained
fibers. The outer skin and fat of mutton should be torn off
before the meat is cooked.
Glands and Organs
LIVER Calf's liver is often considered most choice in tender-
ness and in flavor. Lamb's, however, is equally good and often
cheaper in price. Pig's liver is good, and even beef liver is
acceptable if properly prepared.
Because of its value as an iron-rich food, liver is used exten-
sively in the prevention and treatment of anemia.
KIDNEYS Calf's kidneys are best. Lamb's kidneys are good
if the lamb is young.
SWEETBREADS Sweetbreads from the young calf or lamb
are used. There are two kinds, those in the throat and those
near the heart. Those near the heart are round and compact
and are considered slightly more desirable than those in the
throat. Sweetbreads spoil quickly, therefore they should not
be kept very long.
HEART Calf's and lamb's hearts are more tender than those
from beef or mutton.
TONGUE Calf's and lamb's tongues are most desirable. The
tongue of older animals may be used in some recipes.
BRAIN Calf's brains are most desirable. Although a deli-
cacy, there is so little demand for them that in many markets
they may be purchased cheaply.
TRIPE A part of the stomach of a ruminant that from
the ox is the one usually used for food.
Amount of Meat to Buy for Each Person
Meat shrinks from one-third to one-half in cooking. There-
fore allow one-fourth pound of meat without bone for each
serving, and one-half pound of meat consisting of lean, fat
and bone as a minimum for each serving.
230
Cuts of Meat
Animals dressed for market are divided lengthwise through
the backbone into two parts, each of which is called a side.
Each side is divided again into two parts, the forequarter and
the hindquarter. Each quarter is then divided into smaller
cuts which are sold in the retail market.
Comparative Cost of Various Cuts
As a general rule the price of the different cuts of meat is
determined by considerations such as tenderness, grain, general
appearance and convenience of cooking rather than by food
values in terms of fat or protein, or the ease with which they
are digested. The cheapest cuts for lean meat are the neck and
the two shanks. The cheapest for general use are the shanks,
plates and chuck. The cheapest cuts for fat and lean are the
neck, shank and plate.
Beefsteaks, in the order of their economy as food, range as
follows: chuck, round, flank, sirloin, and club or Porterhouse.
Of the roasts of beef, the cheapest in terms of lean meat is the
rump and most expensive is the first cut of the prime ribs. For
stews and boiling, the neck and shank are less expensive than
the rib ends and the brisket.
CARE OF MEAT IN THE HOME
As soon as meat comes from the market, the wrapping-paper
should be removed, and the meat should be put on a granite
or porcelain plate and placed in the refrigerator or other cool
place.
Before cooking meat, wash quickly under running water,
remove outer membrane and inspection stamp. In hot weather,
if meat is to be kept any length of time and there is any danger
of its spoiling, it may be seared on the outside on a hot griddle
or may be plunged into boiling water and kept there for five
minutes; lamb, mutton, or veal may be partly cooked. It should
then be cooled as quickly as possible, uncovered, and put into
the refrigerator or other cool place. If meat has become slightly
"strong," it may be rubbed with salt and the salt wiped off
LAMB CHART
Petal I Cuts Who , esa/eCufs Retail Cuts
Leg of Lamb
(Three cuts from one leg)
Roast Broil Stew. Braise
Lamb Crown Frenched
Roast Rib Chops
.Roost Broil
Loin English Rolled Loin
Lamb<
Lamb Chop Lamb Chop of Lamb
Broil or Panbroil Roast-
Square Cut
Lamb
Shoulder
Arm Blade
Lamb Chop Lamb Chop
Broil Roost
Cushion Saratoga
Lamb Shoulder Lamb Chops
Roast Broil
Rolled Breast Lamb Breast
Roast or Braise
Polled Boneless
Lamb Shoulder Shoulder Chops
Roast Broil
Lamb Nech Slices
Braise
Lamb Shanns
Braise or Stew
National Live Stock and Meat Board
BEEF CHART
Retail Cuts Retail Cuts
Wholesale Cuts
Ground Beef Heel of Round
Koost w Broil - Brain of S/mmw-
Hind Shank
Soup or Simmer
(Porterhouse T Bone ciub
Steak Steak steak
Broil or Ponbroil
;he Rolled Short
Beef Plate Ribs
Simmer or Braise
Standing Rolled Rib
Rib Roast Rib Roast SteaR
KnucRle crosscut
Soup Bone Fore ShanR
soup or Braise
Boneless ChucR Shoulder
Pot-Roast Fillet
Broitt
English Cut Arm Pot Roast Arm SteaR
Rolled Necft Boneless NecR
Bfaiff of St*w
National Live Stock and Meat Board
PORK CHART
Retail Cuts Retail Cui
Wholesale Cuts
2 "^*J9" **ST' 1
Sirloin PorR Tenderloin
Porft Roa$t Frncn^<J and who*
Broil or Braise
2to5
Canadian^Styte Bacon Loin Chop
Fresh Shouwer Hoc* Arm PorR SteaK
Simmer Srolse
National Live Stock and Meat Board
VEAL CHART
Retail Cuts Retail Cuts
Wholesale Cuts
Veal Round Veal
Steoh (cutlet) Round Roast
Braise Roast or Braise
Blade Arm
Veal Roast Veat Roast
Roost or Braise
a ' st City Chicken
- foost or Braise Braise
National Live Stock and Meat Board
Veal Fore Shank Veal Patties
Simmer Braise
MEAT
231
with a damp cloth, or the meat may be rubbed with soda, kept
for a few minutes in boiling water, wiped with a damp cloth
and then cooked.
METHODS OF COOKING MEAT
Meat is cooked to soften connective tissue, to develop flavor,
to improve appearance and to destroy bacteria or other organ-
isms. The method of cooking depends on the kind and quality
of the meat to be cooked. Only tender cuts of meat can be
cooked successfully by dry heat. Although as desirable in
nutritive value and flavor, the tough cuts of meat require moist
heat and long, slow cooking to make them palatable. Since
meat is largely protein, even the tenderest cuts may be toughened
and hardened by too high a temperature.
SEARING Meat is placed in a hot pan containing fat, a hot
oven or over an open fire and is quickly browned on all sides.
The temperature is then reduced and the cooking process con-
tinued. Searing does not keep in the juices as was formerly
thought but does produce a browner exterior.
BROILING Meat is cooked over or under or in front of an
open fire or other direct heat. The meat is placed so that there
is a distance of 3 or 4 inches between top of meat and source
of heat. Broil on one side until nicely browned, turn and finish
broiling. Season. Chops and tender steaks as porterhouse, sir-
loin and first or second cut of round are the most desirable for
broiling.
PAN BROILING Meat is placed in a sizzling hot skillet and
browned on both sides. Reduce temperature and cook until as
well done as desired, turning from time to time.
ROASTING Meat is placed on a rack in an uncovered roast-
ing pan, fat side up and baked in a slow oven, without water
until as well done as desired. Basting is not necessary. The
large tender cuts of meat are cooked by this method.
COOKING IN WATER Meat is covered with boiling water,
then seasoned with salt and pepper and cooked slowly at sim-
mering temperature, not boiling, until meat is tender.
STEWING Meat is cut into cubes. Brown, if desired,
on all sides in hot fat, cover with boiling water and cook
at simmering temperature in a covered kettle until meat is
tender. Less tender cuts containing much connective tissue
232
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are best cooked by this method which softens both tissue and
fiber.
The best cuts for stews are those containing both fat and
lean and some bone. The shank is the most economical of all
cuts for this purpose. Other cuts used are the neck, plate, flank,
heel of the round and the short ribs. The brisket and the rump
are sometimes used. Occasionally a cut like the round is used,
as in beef a la mode.
In making stews^ one-fourth pound of clear meat or one-
half pound of meat and bones should be allowed for each
serving. One to two potatoes, one to two medium-sized car-
rots, one small onion, one-fourth medium-sized turnip and one
stalk of celery may be used for each person served. Any or
all of these may be omitted.
BRAISING Use a thick-walled kettle or frying pan. Brown
sliced onion and snip of garlic in a small amount of fat and sear
meat thoroughly in this. If cooking is to continue on top of
stove, leave meat in the kettle. For oven finishing, transfer to
casserole or baking dish. Season, add a small amount of water
or tomato juice and simmer. Pot roast is the most familiar
braised meat.
FRYING AND SAUTEING Some meats, such as chops and cut-
lets, may be crumbed and fried in deep fat. Ham, liver and
some other meats are sometimes sauteed in a small amount of
fat at low temperature, after the first searing.
PRESSURE COOKING utilizes live steam in a special kettle.
FIRELESS COOKING continues cooking with no additional
heat.
COOKING GLANDS AND ORGANS All glandular organs re-
quire careful cooking at low temperature. Overcooking
toughens them and destroys their delicate flavor, making them
almost tasteless.
Beef
BROWNED BEEF BRISKET
6 pounds beef brisket 6 or more medium- sized
Celery salt boiled potatoes
Garlic Salt and pepper
If the piece has much bone, part may be removed for soup,
stock, or gravy to be used with the meat when warmed over.
Simmer the solid part of the meat in a little water until tender,
MEAT 235
with a dash of celery salt and garlic added, turning it once dur-
ing the cooking, which will take not less than three hours for
the amount given. Remove the meat from the liquor; place
it in a shallow pan with skin side up, and score several times
across the top. Have boiled potatoes (hot or cold) in readi-
ness and drop them into the kettle to take up some of the fat;
then place them around the meat and brown all in a hot oven
(400 -450 F.) about ten to twenty minutes. Make a gravy
with the remaining liquor and serve separately. The meat
should slice as firmly as cheese and be tender and appetizing.
BRISKET OF BEEF
3 pounds beef brisket y 2 cup diced celery with
1/2 cup sliced onions leaves
1/2 cup sliced carrots ll/ 2 teaspoons salt
Cover beef with hot water, add vegetables and simmer, cov-
ered, until meat is tender, about 2 l /z to 3 hours. Do not boil.
Add salt when half done and more water if necessary. Remove
meat from broth, slice and serve with Horse-radish Sauce (page
324) or Onion Sauce (page 315). Allow l /2 pound per serving.
VARIATIONS 1. Brown meat in hot fat before cooking.
2. With Navy Beans Soak 1 pound navy beans in water
overnight. Drain and place in a kettle together with l /2 teaspoon
mustard, l /2 cup brown sugar, l / 2 cup maple sirup, salt and
pepper. Place beef brisket on top. Cover with water and cook
slowly until tender, about 3 hours.
3. Omit vegetables listed. For the last hour of cooking add
1 quart sauerkraut, 1 cup vinegar and 3 tablespoons brown
sugar. Cover and finish cooking. Stir in a grated uncooked
potato 10 minutes before serving.
TO CORN BEEF
Neck, brisket and navel are usually used. Rub the beef with
salt and pack it in a clean hard wood barrel or crock. Pour
over it the following pickle^ enough for twenty-five pounds,
2 l /2 pounds salt l / 2 ounce saltpeter
Yz pound sugar 4J/2 quarts water
Mix the pickle thoroughly, boil it, remove the scum, and
cool the liquid. Place a heavy weight on top of the meat to
236
r^r^^f
keep it in the brine. The meat may be left in the brine for a
month, but it is at its best after ten days of curing.
BOILED CORNED BEEF
6 pounds corned beef 1 onion
1 carrot Vinegar
Butter
Soak the meat one hour in cold water. Drain, put into a
kettle with carrot and onion, using enough cold water to cover
well. Add to each quart of water one teaspoon of vinegar.
Simmer until tender. Thirty to forty minutes for each pound
is a fair allowance of time. Let it remain in the liquor twenty
minutes after it is done. Then drain and serve. Butter rubbed
over the meat just before serving improves corned beef pre-
pared in this way.
OLD-FASHIONED BOILED DINNER
6 pounds corned-beef 4 carrots
brisket 6 potatoes
1 cabbage 6 beets
3 white turnips Vinegar
Put the meat into the pot over a brisk fire with enough cold
water to cover it. Bring it rapidly just to the boiling-point,
then remove the scum, reduce the heat and simmer until tender
(three to four hours). About three-fourths of an hour before
it is to be served, skim the liquid free from fat. Put a portion
of the liquid into another kettle with the cabbage which has
been cleaned and cut into sections, the turnips, carrots, potatoes
and beets prepared and cut into uniform pieces, and boil until
tender.
BEEF STEW WITH DUMPLINGS
l l /2 pounds shank, neck, 1 small onion
plate, flank, rump or l /$ cup cubed carrots
brisket % cup cubed turnips
l /4 cup flour 4 cups potatoes, cut in
1 Yz teaspoons salt quarters
J4 teaspoon pepper
Wipe meat, remove from bone, cut in cubes of about one and
one-half inch. Mix flour with salt and pepper and dredge the
MEAT 237
cubes of meat with it. Cut some of the fat from the meat
and heat in a frying-pan. When part of the fat has tried out,
add the cubes of meat and brown the surface, stirring con-
stantly to prevent burning. Put this meat, with the melted
fat in which it was browned, into the stew-kettle. Add enough
boiling water to cover the meat or a pint of tomatoes, stewed
and strained, and simmer until the meat is tender (about three
hours) .
The carrots and turnips are to be added during the last hour
of cooking, and the potatoes twenty minutes before serving
time. Fifteen minutes before serving time, add the dumplings
to the stew.
DUMPLINGS No. 1.
2 cups sifted flour 1 egg, well beaten
1 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons melted butter
4 teaspoons baking powder or other shortening
y 4 teaspoon pepper Milk (about % cup)
Sift dry ingredients together. Add egg, melted shortening
and enough milk to make a moist, stiff batter. Drop by tea-
spoons into boiling liquid. Cover very closely and cook for 18
minutes. Makes 2 dozen dumplings.
These dumplings may be steamed in another kettle, as in fol-
lowing recipe.
No. 2.
2 cups flour 1 teaspoon salt
4 teaspoons baking-powder % cup milk
l /z tablespoon fat
Sift together the dry ingredients and rub in the fat. Add
enough milk to moisten the flour, but do not make the mixture
too wet. Roll out the dough on a board, making it about one
inch thick, and cut with a biscuit cutter. Put the pieces on a
plate in a steamer and steam twenty to thirty minutes. It is
better not to steam the dumplings over the stew, as the rapid
boiling required reduces the gravy too much. These dumplings
may be cooked on top of the stew, as in the recipe above, but
they will be lighter if steamed.
2 3 8
s^-X^^^-^^-N^-S-'-V^N^'S-'^X-N^-V^
BRAISED SHORT RIBS
3 pounds short ribs of beef Salt
Flour Pepper
1 cup water
Cut meat into serving portions. Dredge with flour and brown
in a hot kettle or oven. Season with salt and pepper, add water,
cover and cook in kettle at simmering temperature or in a slow
oven (300F.) until tender, 1 l /z to 2 hours. Allow l / 2 pound
per serving.
VARIATIONS Use Barbecue Sauce (page 2 53) for water.
2. Spread prepared mustard over ribs and use tomatoes or
tomato juice in place of water.
3. Add sauerkraut during the last 45 minutes of cooking.
4. Add uncooked pared potatoes, carrots and onions to the
ribs about 45 minutes before ribs are done.
BEEF GOULASH
3 pounds beef chuck 1 teaspoon salt
Vinegar l /2 teaspoon paprika
Summer savory 8 onions
J/3 cup fat
Cook the onions slowly in the fat. Cut the beef into cubes
or slices and sprinkle with vinegar and a little savory. Add the
salt and paprika. Add the cooked onions, cover tightly, and
simmer for about two hours. The liquid may be increased
just before serving by the addition of a little beef stock, or
cream, either sweet or sour.
SAVORY BEEF
2 pounds beef, plate, shank, % teaspoon ground cloves and
rump or round thyme or Summer savory
3 large onions, sliced 1 ' pint brown stock or boiling
3 tablespoons fat water and meat extract
3 tablespoons flour 2 tablespoons vinegar
1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon catchup
54 teaspoon black pepper
Brown the onions slowly in the fat. Increase the heat. Cut
meat into sizes desired for serving, add it to the onions, and
brown. Mix the flour and the dry seasonings. Sprinkle this
MEAT 239
mixture over the meat. Add the stock, vinegar and catchup.
Cover closely. Simmer until meat is tender, allowing at least
two hours for shank or plate and one and one-half hours for
rump or round.
POT ROAST OF BEEF
4 pounds chuck, round or 3 tablespoons fat
rump of beef Salt and pepper
1/4 cup flour 1/2 cup water
Dredge meat with flour and brown on all sides in hot fat.
Season with salt and pepper. Add water, cover and cook slowly
until tender, 3 to 4 hours. As the liquid cooks away add more,
as needed. Serve with brown gravy and vegetables. Makes 8
portions.
VARIATIONS 1. Add uncooked pared potatoes, carrots, green
beans, celery and onions just long enough before serving to cook
them. They may be whole, quartered or sliced.
2. Use tomatoes or tomato juice in place of water.
3. After browning, pour l / 4 cup horse-radish over meat.
4. Before cooking, cut slits in the meat and insert stuffed
olives, pushing them into the meat.
SMOTHERED BEEF
3 pounds rump 2 tablespoons mild prepared
Flour mixed with salt and mustard
pepper 1 teaspoon celery seed
3 large onions, sliced 1 cup strained tomatoes or y 2
3 tablespoons fat can tomato soup
Dredge the meat with flour and brown it in a heavy pan.
Brown the onions in the fat; add the mustard, celery seed and
tomatoes. Pour this sauce over the meat and simmer three hours
or more.
SWISS STEAK
2 pounds steak cut 2y 2 inches Salt and pepper
thick from shoulder, rump y 2 green pepper, chopped fine
or round 2 cups boiling water or
y 2 cup flour 1 cup water and
2 tablespoons fat 1 cup strained tomatoes
Few slices onion
Season the flour with salt and pepper and pound it into the
meat with a wooden potato-masher, or the edge of a heavy
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240
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meat mallet. Heat the fat and brown the meat in it. Add the
onions, green pepper, boiling water and tomato. Cover closely.
Simmer for 2 hours. This may be cooked in a casserole in a
moderate oven (350F.) about 1 to 1 1 /2 hours. Vegetables may
be added as desired. Serves 6.
STUFFED STEAK
2 pounds flank or round steak 1 tablespoon chopped onion
1 cup crumbs 1 small turnip, diced
l /2 cup stock or water l / 2 cup chopped celery
1 teaspoon salt 1 small carrot, diced
l / 4 teaspoon pepper Flour
The meat should be cut from one-half inch to one inch thick.
"Wipe the steak, remove the skin and lay the meat out flat on
a board. Make a dressing of the crumbs, stock or water, salt,
pepper, chopped onion and a small amount of celery and spread
It on the meat. Roll the steak with the grain, so that when it
is cut it may be cut across the grain of the meat. Place the
diced vegetables in a roasting-pan and on them lay the rolled
steak. Add two or three cups of water, depending upon the
size of the pan. Cover and bake in a slow oven (350 F.) for
three hours, or until tender.
If you prefer to cook this meat on top of the stove, melt one-
half cup of suet in the bottom of a flat-bottomed iron or
heavy aluminum kettle, flour the meat thickly and lay the roll
in the kettle. Turn from side to side until it is well browned,
then add hot water nearly to cover, and simmer slowly for
three hours.
When the meat is cooked, remove it from the kettle or roast-
ing-pan and thicken the broth, using one to two tablespoons of
flour to each cup of gravy.
BRAISED OX-TAIL
1 ox- tail (cut in two-inch 2 tablespoons flour
pieces) 1 cup hot water
2 tablespoons fat 1 cup tomatoes
2 small onions 3 bay-leaves
1 carrot 3 whole cloves
1 tablespoon chopped celery Salt and pepper
Saute the pieces of ox-tail in the fat. Add the sliced onion*
and carrot and the chopped celery, and brown all together.
MEAT 241
Sprinkle with browned flour. Add the hot water, tomatoes,
bay-leaves, cloves, salt and pepper. Put into a casserole and
cook slowly (350 F.) until the meat falls from the bones.
BRAISED BEEF
% to 3 pounds brisket or 1 chopped onion
round of beef 1 chopped carrot
Drippings or other fat for 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
sauteing */2 cup diced celery
2 tablespoons butter or other 1 cup canned tomatoes
fat Salt and paprika
Cut the meat into cubes; brown in hot frying-pan with
drippings. Stir the meat so it will cook quickly and not lose
its juices. Tender cuts can be cooked whole. Remove the
pieces to a closely covered kettle that can be used either on top
of the range or in the oven. Rinse the pan with a quarter cup
of boiling water to save all browned bits, and pour this over
the meat. Cover tightly and cook slowly for two hours.
FOR THE SAUCE, melt butter or other fat and brown the
onion and carrot in it. Add parsley, celery and tomatoes.
Heat thoroughly. Add seasonings. Pour the sauce over the
meat and continue cooking for another hour.
BEEFSTEAK PIE
2 pounds rump, flank or Sliced potatoes
chuck steak Butter or other fat
Pie paste Flour
Chopped onion Egg
Salt and pepper
Cut the meat into strips two inches long by one inch wide.
Put them with the bone, just cover them with water and sim-
mer about an hour. Line the sides of a baking-dish with pie
paste; put in a layer of meat with a few thin slices of onion,
and sprinkle with salt and pepper; next add a layer of sliced
potatoes, with bits of butter dotted over it. Alternate the steak
and potato layers until the dish is full. Thicken the gravy
with browned flour and pour in, put on a top crust, brush it
with beaten egg and bake at 450 F. until quite brown about
thirty minutes.
242
ROAST BEEF WITH YORKSHIRE PUDDING
In preparing beef for roasting, trim it carefully then skewer
and tie it into shape. Rub the lean parts with drippings and
rub the whole with salt, pepper and flour.
Place the standing or rolled rib roast fat side up in an open
roasting pan. Then the roast will baste itself. Insert meat
thermometer so that bulb reaches the center of the largest
muscle, taking care that it does not rest on the fat or bone.
Roast in a slow oven (300-350 F.) or, if a brown crust is
wanted, start in hot oven (500 F.) for 20 minutes, then reduce
to 300 F. until done as desired. The thermometer will read
140 F. for rare, 160 F. for medium, 170 F. for well done.
The time per pound needed is 18-22 minutes for rare; 22-25 for
medium and 27-30 for well done. For making gravy, see page
314.
YORKSHIRE PUDDING
1 cup flour 1 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon salt 2 eggs
Put flour, salt, milk and eggs together in a bowl. Beat well
with a rotary egg-beater. Pour drippings to the depth of one
inch into a shallow pan. Have the drippings hot and pour in
the mixture quickly. Bake for one-half hour in a hot oven
(400 -42 5 F.). The pudding may then be placed under the
trivet that holds the roast beef and left for about fifteen min-
utes to catch the gravy that flows from the roast. If a trivet
is not used, cut the pudding into squares and lay them around
the roast in the pan. Serve the pudding with the beef.
FILLET MIGNON
Beef fillet Salt and pepper
Salt pork Flour
Butter or other fat
The fillet is the under side of the loin of beef, the tenderloin.
The skin and fat should be removed with a sharp knife, and
also every shred of muscle and ligament. If the fillet is not
then of a good round shape, skewer it until it is so. Lard the
upper surface with strips of fat salt pork and rub the entire
surface with soft butter or other fat. Dredge well with salt,
pepper and flour, and place the fillet, without water, in a small
MEAT 243
pan. Bake in a moderate oven (350 F.) to the desired degree
of doneness, 40 to 60 minutes. Serve, cut into 2 inch slices,
accompanied with mushroom sauce or sauteed mushrooms.
BROILED STEAK
1 porterhouse, sirloin Salt and pepper
or club steak 2 tablespoons butter
Select a steak at least 1 to 1 1 / 2 inches thick. Heat the broiler
for 1 minutes with regulator set at 350 F. Arrange steak on a
rack. Place rack 4 inches under heat. Broil for half the specified
time, season with salt and pepper, turn and broil on other side.
Remove to a hot platter. Place butter on top of steak, sprinkle
with salt and pepper and serve at once. Allow l / 2 pound of meat
per person.
BROILING TIME
Degree of
Doneness 1 inch thick 1 1 / 2 inches thick
Rare 9 to 10 minutes 14 to 16 minutes
Medium 12 to 14 " 18 to 20
Well done 16 to 1 8 " 25 to 30 "
PAN BROILED STEAK
Heat a heavy skillet until sizzling hot. Place meat in hot pan
and brown well on both sides. Reduce temperature and cook
until the desired degree of doneness, turning from time to time,
being careful not to pierce meat. Pour off fat as it accumulates
in the pan. Place meat on a hot platter, spread with butter and
season with salt and pepper.
WITH MUSHROOMS
Use mushroom caps, whole or sliced. Saute slowly in hot
butter 5 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Allow 2 tablespoons
butter for y 2 pound mushrooms.
WITH ONIONS
Slice onions into water and drain. Place in a shallow sauce-
pan, cover closely, and cook over a slow heat for fifteen or
twenty minutes, till tender. No water or fat should be used,
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244
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as the onions contain both moisture and richness. Pan-broil
the steak. Put the onions into the pan in which the steak was
cooked and brown them. Serve steak with onions around it.
WITH OYSTERS.
1 quart oysters 3 tablespoons butter or other
1 tablespoon sifted flour fat
Set the oysters, with a very little of their juice, over the fire;
when they come to a boil, remove any scum and stir in the fat
in which the sifted flour has been rubbed. Boil one minute^
pour over the steak and serve at once.
PLANKED STEAK
1 tender steak, 2 inches thick Butter
Duchess potatoes Minced parsley
Various kinds of cooked Salt
vegetables Paprika
Trim the fat and make outline of the steak even. Sear it on
both sides on a hot griddle or pan, using no fat, or on a broiler.
Cook fifteen minutes, turning frequently. Oil a heated plank
(see directions for planked fish), place the steak on the plank,
and arrange border of Duchess potatoes around it. Arrange
other cooked vegetables, such as stuffed tomatoes or green
peppers^ small boiled onions, peas, string beans and cubes of
carrot or turnip, around the steak, also, so that the board is
entirely concealed. Place the plank in the oven until the potato
border is browned and all the vegetables are heated through.
After removing it from the oven, spread the steak with butter
into which has been rubbed minced parsley^ salt and paprika.
Send to table upon the plank.
HAMBURG STEAK
2 pounds chopped beef Onion-juice
l /4 pound suet Flour
Butter Salt and pepper
Have the butcher chop the beef and suet together twice.
Press it into a flat steak about three-fourths of an inch thick,
sprinkle with salt, pepper, a little onion-juice and flour. Broil
on a fine wire broiler or saute in a little fat. Spread with butter
MEAT 245
and serve on a hot dish. This steak is sometimes shaped into
small, thin, flat cakes. When it is sauted, a gravy may be made
by thickening the juices in the pan, to which a little water has
been added. Two tablespoons of melted butter and one table-
spoon minced onion mixed with the meat and seasonings im-
proves Hamburg steak.
BAKED HAMBURG STEAK
1 l /2 pounds chopped beef 2 eggs
2 cups bread soaked in milk 4 hard-cooked eggs
1 small onion, minced 1 cup tomatoes
1 tablespoon butter or other l /2 cup sliced onion
fat Salt, pepper, ginger
Have the meat put through the grinder twice. Add the
bread, the onion, seasonings to taste and the two uncooked
eggs, well-beaten. Arrange the hard-cooked eggs end to end
across the middle of the meat and roll the meat mixture around
them. Place the roll in a baking-pan, pour over it a sauce com-
posed of the tomatoes, sliced onions, butter or other fat and
water, and bake in moderate oven (350-375 F.) for about
two hours^ basting frequently with sauce. In serving, slice the
roll crosswise. The hard-cooked eggs may be omitted.
BEEF BALLS
l l /z pounds beef from the 1 egg
shank Flour
l / 3 cup bread-crumbs Salt and pepper
3 tablespoons soft fat 1 teaspoon lemon-juice
1 cup stock Nutmeg
Put the meat twice through a food-chopper, add bread-
crumbs, salt, pepper, lemon- juice, a little nutmeg and the beaten
egg. Shape into balls lightly and let them stand for half an hour
or more to become firm, then roll them in flour and brown them
in the frying-pan with the fat. Take out the meat balls, add to
the fat a tablespoon of flour and a cup of stock. Season well, put
the meat balls into this mixture, cover the frying-pan closely
and simmer for an hour and a half.
246
BEEF LOAF
l l /2 pounds chopped beef 2 teaspoons salt
2 eggs Additional seasonings to suit,
l l / 2 cups bread-crumbs such as chopped celery or
2 tablespoons chopped parsley onion, poultry seasoning, a
l / 2 teaspoon pepper dash of thyme, savory, sage,
etc.
Chop the meat. Mix it thoroughly with one unbeaten egg,
bread-crumbs, chopped parsley, pepper and salt. Turn into a
bread pan until almost filled. Press a hollow with spoon and
drop an egg into the opening. Season, cover egg and continue
to fill pan. Bake 40 minutes in hot oven (400 F.), basting
every 8-10 minutes with stock or butter in hot water. Garnish
with parsley or watercress and serve hot with mushroom sauce
or onion sauce. It is simple to serve cold with horse-radish
sauce.
SCALLOPED CORNED BEEF
2 cups cooked corned beef 1 stalk celery
cut into cubes 2 slices onion
1 cup medium white sauce Buttered bread-crumbs
Cook chopped celery and onions in the sauce. Put the
corned beef in a shallow baking-dish and add the sauce.
Sprinkle with buttered bread-crumbs. Cook fifteen to thirty
minutes in a moderate oven (350-400 F.).
BEEF MIRONTON
Sliced cooked beef 6 onions
1 cup bouillon or 1 to 2 tablespoons fat
1 cup water mixed with 1 tablespoon flour
canned tomato sauce 2 tablespoons vinegar
Salt and pepper Bread-crumbs
Slice the onions and brown them in fat in a frying-pan.
Add the flour and brown. Then add the vinegar, and the
bouillon or the water and tomato sauce. Cook together until
slightly thickened, stirring constantly. Season with salt and
pepper. Smother the slices of beef in the sauce for a few min-
utes. Pour into a baking-dish ; sprinkle some bread-crumbs over
the top and bake for ten minutes in a hot oven (400 F.).
MEAT 247
FRICASSEE OF BEEF
Sliced cooked beef l /2 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons flour 2 cups water
3 tablespoons fat 1 teaspoon onion-juice
l l /z teaspoons salt
Season the meat with salt and pepper. Make a sauce of the
fat, flour and water, and remainder of the seasonings. Add the
cold meat and cook gently for three minutes, if it is rare beef,
mutton or game; if the meat is veal or poultry, it may cook
longer. Serve on a hot dish with a border of ricej mashed po-
tatoes or toast.
BEEF HASH
2 cups chopped cold roast 1 cup beef gravy or hot water
beef or steak 4 tablespoons butter or other
2 to 4 cups chopped boiled fat
potatoes
Put the fat into a frying-pan and then put in the meat and
potato, salt and pepper, moisten with beef gravy or hot water
and cover. Let it steam or heat through throughly, stirring
occasionally to mix it evenly and also to keep it from sticking.
When done, it should be neither watery nor dry, but just firm
enough to stand well when dished. If a drier hash is liked,
reduce the liquid, and after the hash has been thoroughly
heated through remove the cover and allow the hash to brown.
If onion is liked, fry two or three slices in the fat before the
hash is added, or mix a little chopped onion with the meat
and potatoes.
CORNED BEEF HASH
2 cups chopped corned beef y 2 cup milk or water
2 cups chopped cooked po- 2 tablespoons butter or other
tatoes fat
Salt and pepper
Mix beef and potatoes together lightly and season. Pour
the milk into a frying-pan with half the fat and, when this is
warm, turn in the hash, spreading it evenly and placing the
rest of the fat, cut in pieces, on the top. Cover the pan and
place it where the hash will cook slowly for half an hour. There
should then be a rich, thick crust on the bottom. Do not stir
248
^NXN^NX
the hash. Fold it as an omelet is folded and place it on a warm
platter. This slow process of heating the hash gives it a flavor
that can not be obtained by hurried cooking.
CREAMED DRIED BEEF
% pound dried beef 4 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons butter or other Pepper
fat 1 egg
2 cups milk
Place the butter or other fat and one and one-half cups of
milk in a small frying-pan. When hot, add the beef, shredded.
Cook three minutes. Rub the flour smooth in one-half cup
cold milk, add a dash of pepper and stir into the beef. As
soon as it thickens, draw the pan back, simmer five minutes,
add the well-beaten egg and serve at once. The hot gravy will
cook the egg sufficiently* The egg may be omitted.
Veal
VEAL POT PIE
3 pounds veal Salt and pepper
2 onions 5 potatoes
The neck, ends of ribs, knuckle, breast or shoulder may be
used. Cut the meat into two-inch cubes and place them in a
kettle with the onion, salt and pepper, and just enough hot
water to cover them. Simmer until the meat is tender, about
an hour usually being sufficient. Strips of salt pork are some-
times cooked with the veal and add much to the flavor. Half
an hour before serving, add the potatoes^ cut in halves, and
cook them with the meat.
Place dumplings around the edge of a platter and with a
skimmer lift the meat and potato from the kettle and lay them
in the center. Thicken the gravy in the kettle with a little
flour stirred to a thin smooth paste with water. Pour the gravy
over meat and dumplings. (The Index will tell you where
to find the recipe for dumplings. )
MEAT 249
BRAISED VEAL
5 pounds veal 1 tablespoon sliced onion
2 tablespoons butter or other Salt and pepper
fat 4 cups boiling water
The breast, neck, shoulder, ends of ribs or knuckle may be
used. Heat the fat and onion in a kettle. Season the veal with
salt and pepper, put it into the kettle and sear it on all sides
until brown. Pour over it the boiling water and cover tightly.
Set the kettle in a slow oven (350 F.) and bake for two and
one-half hours. Serve either hot or cold. If served hot, make
a thickened sauce of the liquor in the kettle. When cold, the
gravy will form a jelly to serve with the cold meat.
VEAL PIE
2 pounds veal 2 tablespoons fat
Puff paste or other rich paste 1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons flour Pepper
Cut the meat into small pieces and stew until tender. Line
a baking-dish with paste. Set a small inverted cup in the middle
of the dish. Put in the meat, dredge it with flour, add fat and
seasoning, and nearly cover with the stock in which the meat
was cooked. Cover with paste. Bake thirty minutes in a quick
oven (450 F.). If one-half pound of good salt pork or ham
is cut in thin slices and parboiled with the veal, a nice flavor is
added and very little, if any, butter need then be used, nor is
any other salt necessary. Hard-cooked eggs cut in slices and
arranged in layers on the veal and ham are an addition to this
dish. When serving, lift the inverted cup and let the gravy
flow back into the dish.
VEAL CUTLETS WITH CREAM GRAVY
2 pounds veal cutlets Drippings
Salt and pepper 1 cup milk or cream
Egg 1 tablespoon flour
Bread or cracker-crumbs
Wipe the cutlets, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip them first
in beaten egg and then in fine bread or cracker-crumbs, and
saute' in drippings until brown. If preferred, they may be cut
250
FV/SSNS
into small pieces of similar size and pounded with a rolling-
pin until little more than a quarter of an inch in thickness and
then egged and crumbed and sauted. The cutlets should be
thoroughly browned on both sides. Place them on a platter^
add cream to the gravy in the pan, and thicken slightly with
flour rubbed to a smooth paste with a little cold water. They
may be served with slices of bacon.
VEAL CUTLETS AND SOUP
3 pounds veal shank 3 cups brown stock
Crumbs A few peppercorns
Salt Celery salt
Egg 5/2 cup diced potatoes
Butter or other fat l / 2 cup diced turnips
Cook a veal shank in boiling salted water until tender. Re-
move as much meat as possible from the bone and cut the pieces
to resemble chops. Season the veal well. Roll in crumbs, egg
and crumbs again, and saute in butter or other fat.
For the soup, take the remaining portion of the shank and
put it into a kettle with the stock, peppercorns, salt, celery salt,
and any other seasonings desired. Add the potatoes, turnips,
and a little parsley. Cook for one-half hour.
VEAL COLLOPS
2 pounds veal Cracker-crumbs
Egg Salt and pepper
Cut the veal in pieces the size of an oyster, dip in beaten egg,
roll in cracker-crumbs and season with salt and pepper. Fry in
deep fat (375-400 F.).
VEAL AND HAM
l /z pound sliced ham Salt and pepper
1 1 /2 pounds veal cutlets
Fry the ham, using no fat unless the meat is unusually lean.
Remove the ham and place on the serving-dish. Cook the veal
in the juices left from the ham, frying without covering until
it is a deep brown. Put the veal on the same dish with the
ham, add a little water to the gravy, season with salt and pepper,
and pour it, without thickening, over the meat.
MEAT 25I
ROAST VEAL
4 pounds veal Flour
Salt and pepper Fat or salt pork or bacon
A roast may be cut from the leg, the loin, the rack, or the
shoulder, or the breast may be boned for a roast. A fillet of
five or six pounds from the heaviest part is the most economical
for roasting. If the leg is used, it should be boned at the market,
and the bone should be used for stock. Stuffing improves many
roasts of veal (see recipes below) .
Wipe the meat, dredge with salt, pepper and flour and place
it in a pan with some fat. Place in a slow oven (300 F.) and
roast uncovered and without adding water until tender. Allow
25 to 30 minutes per pound. If desired make an incision in meat
and insert a roast meat thermometer so that the bulb reaches
the center of the fleshiest part. When the thermometer registers
170 F. the veal will be well done. Allow about % pound per
serving.
ROLLED VEAL LOIN
6 pounds loin of veal 1 tablespoon grated lemon rind
Y 2 pound boiled ham 1/2 teaspoon salt
2 hard-cooked eggs ]/ 8 teaspoon pepper
1 cup bread crumbs 1 egg, slightly beaten
1/4 teaspoon chopped thyme Salt pork or bacon
1 teaspoon chopped parsley
Have the kidney end of the loin carefully boned and cut
into a long shape like a flap. Line it with slices of boiled ham and
hard-cooked eggs. Remove all the skin and fat from the kidney,
chop fine and mix with bread crumbs, thyme, parsley, lemon
rind, salt and pepper. Add beaten egg and blend thoroughly.
Spread over the veal on top of the sliced ham and eggs. Roll
the meat and sew or fasten tightly with skewers. Arrange strips
of salt pork or bacon over roll. Place in a slow oven (300 F.)
and roast without covering and without adding water until
tender, 25 to 30 minutes per pound. If a meat thermometer is
used it will register 170 F. when meat is well done. Allow l /$
pound per serving. Serve with brown gravy. This is delicious
served cold. Garnish with spiced peaches or apricot halves in
pineapple rings.
252
STUFFED BREAST OF VEAL
4 pounds breast of veal % teaspoon pepper
2 cups bread crumbs y 4 cup minced onion
Y 4 cup salt pork drippings y 2 cup diced celery
1 teaspoon salt y 2 cup hot water
Have a pocket cut in veal breast. Make a stuffing by com-
bining remaining ingredients and tossing together lightly. Pack
stuffing into pocket and sew or skewer edges together. Brown
the meat in hot fat, then add % cup water, cover and cook in
a moderate oven (350F.) 1 l /z to 2 hours or until tender.
VARIATIONS Add l /z cup cooked pitted prunes, apricots or
seedless raisins to the stuffing.
Stuff breast with cooked and seasoned rice or noodles.
VEAL LOAF
2 l /z pounds veal, knuckle 1 cup water or stock
or shin 1 egg
l /4 pound salt pork l / 2 teaspoon sage
2 teaspoons salt 2 tablespoons butter or other
1 teaspoon chopped onion fat
1 cup cracker-crumbs
Chop the veal and pork very fine and add salt, onion,
crumbs, one-half of the water or stock, the egg and sage. Mix
all well together. Oil a small pan and press the mixture into
it like a loaf, making it about six inches high. Cook for two
and one-half hours in a moderate oven (350 F.) basting with
the remainder of the water or stock, in which the butter or
other fat has been melted. This may be served hot or cold. If
served hot a white sauce may accompany it.
JELLIED VEAL
A knuckle of veal Stalk of celery
l /2 onion Salt and pepper
Few slices carrot
Place the veal in boiling water, and simmer until tender,
together with the carrot, onion and celery. Remove the veal
from the liquid and cool both. When the meat is nearly cold,
cut it into tiny cubes, or chop it fine; remove the fat from the
broth, reheat the liquid and stir the veal into it, adding salt
MEAT
253
and pepper, and other seasoning if desired. Pack the hot mix-
ture into a mold, cover with oiled paper, cover and let stand
until set. Slice thin and serve cold.
BARBECUED ROAST
3 or 4-pound roast lamb, 4 cups beef stock
mutton, pork or beef % teaspoon dry mustard
y 2 cup salad oil Dash pepper
2 tablespoons vinegar % teaspoon celery salt
1 cup water Salt to season, about 1
% cup flour teaspoon
Select meat which can be easily sliced across the grain. Mix
salad oil and vinegar together and let meat stand in the mix-
ture overnight. Place meat in a baking dish, add water and
mixture in which meat was marinated. Bake, uncovered in a
350 F. oven for \ l /2 to 2 hours or until tender. Baste several
times during the roasting period and turn once so meat will be
browned on both sides. Add additional water, if necessary.
About l /2 hour before serving time, remove % cup fat from
the baking dish, to a skillet, blend in flour and cook until flour
is brown. Add beef stock or its equivalent in canned soup
or dissolved bouillon cubes, gradually, stirring constantly. Add
remaining seasonings. Serve sliced, in a heated covered dish,
with sauce in a separate hot bowl for 6 to 8 persons.
PORK CHOPS WITH BARBECUE SAUCE
6 pork chops Barbecue sauce
Wipe the pork chops with a damp cloth and dust with flour.
Sear on both sides until browned, then place 1 tablespoon sauce
on each chop. Reduce heat, cover and cook slowly 5 to 8
minutes. Turn chops and place 1 tablespoon of sauce on other
side. Cover and cook slowly until tender. Serve with sauce.
BARBECUE SAUCE
4 tablespoons minced onion 1 tablespoon salt
1 cup tomato puree 1 teaspoon paprika
% cup water 1 teaspoon chili powder
3 tablespoons vinegar !/2 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons Worcester- y 4 teaspoon cinnamon
shire sauce Dash ground cloves
Combine all ingredients in order listed. Heat to boiling and
use as directed above.
254
^-^N^-SXX^N^\-/'V^^^/%^'-Vr^-\^^^-x.
Mutton and Lamb
The flavor of mutton may be reduced by rubbing the meat
with lemon-juice or by putting slices of lemon in the water
in which the mutton is boiled. Mutton marinated in oil and
vinegar or in spiced vinegar becomes very tender. The marinade
also tends to absorb or neutralize the mutton flavor. Mutton
may be served rare, but lamb should be well cooked. Mutton
should always be served very hot, with caper sauce, mint sauce,
tart jelly or spiced fruit.
BARBECUED LAMB or MUTTON
6-pound leg lamb i/ 2 cup catchup
2 teaspoons salt 2 tablespoons A-l sauce
Flour 2 tablespoons Worcester-
1 onion, sliced shire sauce
1 cup water l/ 4 teaspoon cayenne
Wipe leg of lamb with damp cloth, rub with salt and dredge
with flour. Place in a roasting pan and surround with onion.
Combine remaining ingredients, mix well and pour over meat.
Roast in a 3 5 F. oven 3 minutes for each pound. Baste every
20 minutes with the sauce. Serves 8.
LAMB STEW
2 pounds lamb cubes, shank, 6 potatoes
breast, neck or shoulder 6 carrots
2 tablespoons flour 3 onions
2 tablespoons butter or other 4 white turnips
fat 1 cup fresh peas
Salt and pepper 3 tomatoes
Hot water Flour
Dredge lamb with flour and brown well in hot fat. Season
with salt and pepper, cover with water and simmer until nearly
tender, 1 to 1 J/z hours. Add peeled vegetables, except tomatoes,
whole or cut in cubes and simmer 30 minutes longer or until
tender. Add tomatoes and simmer 10 minutes longer. Mix a
little flour with water to a smooth paste and add enough to the
liquid to thicken slightly. Serves 6.
MEAT 255
BRAISED LEG OF LAMB OR MUTTON
y 2 cup each finely chopped 6 whole cloves
celery, carrot and onion 1 clove garlic
2 tablespoons drippings or 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
other fat 12 peppercorns
3 cups vinegar y 2 bay leaf
3 cups water 1 tablespoon salt
1 leg lamb or mutton 1 pint sour cream
1/2 teaspoon each of powdered l / 2 pint stock
thyme and marjoram
Saute celery, carrot, and onion in drippings until light brown,
add vinegar and water and cook until vegetables are tender.
Cool. Place meat in deep dish, pour first mixture over meat,
being careful to have meat entirely covered. Add seasonings.
Marinate meat in this mixture for 24 hours. Drain and dry
thoroughly. Place in roasting pan, bake in moderately slow
oven (300 to 325 F.) for 30 minutes. Add sour cream and
stock, cover and cook until tender, allowing 30 to 35 minutes
per pound. Baste frequently. Boil liquor in which meat was
marinated until only a small amount remains, strain and pour
over meat when serving.
ROAST STUFFED SHOULDER OF LAMB
3-4 pound shoulder lamb 2 recipes Bread Stuffing
Salt and pepper No. 2 (page 303)
Have shoulder bone removed from shoulder and sew on 2
sides, leaving 1 side open for stuffing. Season with salt and
pepper. Fill cavity in meat with stuffing and sew or skewer
edges together. Place fat side up on rack in an open roasting pan
and roast in moderately slow oven (300 to 350 F.) until
tender, allowing 35 to 40 minutes per pound. Serves 6.
VARIATIONS 1. Add l /z cup chopped mint to stuffing.
2. Add J/2 cup finely chopped dried apricots to stuffing.
3. Omit milk in stuffing and add 1 cup tomato pulp.
4. Saute l / 2 pound sliced mushrooms in melted fat with onion
and proceed with stuffing as directed.
5. Use Sausage Stuffing (page 305) in place of Bread Stuffing.
6. In place of Bread Stuffing use l /2 recipe Pineapple-Nut
Stuffing or Rice Stuffing (page 305).
MUTTON CHOPS
6 mutton chops Oil Salt and pepper
Mutton chops should be not less than one inch thick. The
best way to cook them is to broil them. Sprinkle with salt
and pepper, oil on both sides and broil, turning very often.
Have them slightly underdone, and serve on a hot chop-dish,
garnishing with French fried potatoes and sprigs of parsley.
If preferred these chops may be breaded. Select chops with
little fat, or trim off the fat, dip them in well-beaten egg, roll
in cracker crumbs, and fry in deep fat (375-400 F.). Serve
with tomato sauce.
BROILED LAMB PATTIES
1 1/2 pounds ground lamb 1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons grated onion l/ 2 teaspoon pepper
Mix all ingredients thoroughly. Shape into thick patties.
Place on a rack under preheated broiler, about 3 inches from
source of heat so that by the time the patties are browned on
the top they will be half done. Turn and brown on other side.
Allow about 1 5 minutes. Serves 6.
ROAST CROWN OF LAMB
1 crown of lamb or mutton 1 recipe Mushroom Stuffing
Salt and pepper (p a g e 305)
Sliced salt pork
A crown is usually prepared at the market and is made by
shaping the ribs (12-15) into a crown and frenching or scrap-
ing the rib ends. Season with salt and pepper. Fill center of
crown with stuffing. Wrap rib ends with salt pork or bacon
slices. Place crown on a rack in an open roasting pan and roast
in a moderately slow oven (300 to 350F.) until as well done
as desired, allowing 30 to 35 minutes per pound. To serve,
remove salt pork from rib ends and slip paper frills over them.
Allow 2 ribs to each serving.
VARIATIONS Do not stuff. Roast crown upside down with-
out wrapping ribs. To serve, turn right side up and fill center
with vegetables: mashed potatoes, potato balls, peas, diced
carrots or cooked whole cauliflower.
A CROWN ROAST OR
LEG O'LAMB HELPS CEL-
EBRATE THE SPRING
B
BREAST OF LAMB
READY FOR STUFF-
ING.
ROAST ON RACK,
NO COVER, NO I
WATER. SERVE f
WITH STUFFED
ONIONS I
U. S. Bureau Home
Economics
MEAT
LAMB OR MUTTON CUTLETS
2 pounds loin cutlets Flour Salt and pepper
Trim the cutlets and remove the fat, dip them in cold water,
season with pepper and salt and sprinkle flour on both sides.
Wet the inside of a thick saucepan with cold water, leaving
about two tablespoons of the latter in the pan. Lay the cutlets
in flat, place over a gentle fire and simmer for one hour or
more, turning the cutlets when half done. Unless cooked slowly,
the cutlets will not be tender or good. Season and serve with
pan gravy. A little water may be added to the gravy, if
necessary.
ROAST LEG OF LAMB
1 leg lamb (5 to 6 pounds) 11/2 tablespoons salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
Have shank bone removed at the market, if desired. Do not
remove the fell. Rub meat with salt and pepper. Place, fat
side up, on rack in an uncovered roasting pan. Roast in a
moderately slow oven (300-325F.) 30 to 35 minutes to the
pound, or until a meat thermometer registers 175 to 180 F.
Place on a hot platter and garnish with sliced pineapple and
sprigs of watercress.
1. Rub meat with the cut edge of a clove of garlic or place
slivers of garlic into deep narrow gashes cut in meat, or insert
clove of garlic into joint of leg and remove before serving.
2. Rub 1 teaspoon ginger over surface of meat.
3. Baste lamb with vinegar which has been seasoned with
finely cut mint leaves.
4. Baste lamb with a mixture of l /2 cup tomato catchup and
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce.
5. Rub meat with l / 2 cup finely chopped mint leaves. Baste
meat frequently the last hour of roasting with l / 2 cup grape
jelly melted in l / 2 cup hot water.
6. Rub 2 cups cooked apricots and juice through a sieve,
add % cup sugar and cook until thickened. Baste roast with this
during last hour of roasting.
7. Cover meat with pineapple slices 1 hour before meat is
done. Brush with butter so that pineapple will brown.
2 5 8
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FRENCH LAMB CHOPS
French chops are made by scraping the meat and fat from
the bones of rib chops for a little distance from the end. Broil
them over a quick fire, season with salt and pepper, and serve.
They may be sauteed or fried. When cooked in this way,
they are breaded that is, seasoned with salt and pepper and
dipped in beaten egg and then in cracker crumbs.
STUFFED LAMB BREAST
Lamb breast and foreshank 1 cup cooked rice or barley
Salt and pepper 1 tablespoon grated onion
Have foreshank removed from breast and the meat ground.
Have bones of breast cracked so that the meat may be carved
between the ribs. Make a pocket lengthwise in the breast by
cutting the meat close to the ribs. Sprinkle pocket with salt
and pepper. Combine ground meat from the foreshank with
cooked rice or barley. Season with onion, salt and pepper. Fill
pocket with stuffing and sew or skewer edges together. Sprinkle
outside with salt and pepper. Place uncovered in a pan and bake
in a moderately slow oven (300 to 350 F.) for 1 hour, then
cover and continue cooking until tender, about 1 hour longer.
Serves 6.
VARIATIONS Add curry powder to rice stuffing. Fill breast
with Bread Stuffing (page 303 ).
Pork
PORK TENDERLOIN
1 pound tenderloin 3 tablespoons bacon drippings
Flour Salt and pepper
% cup sour cream
Cut tenderloin crosswise into 2 -inch slices. Flatten out and
dredge with flour. Place in hot skillet containing drippings.
Brown on both sides and season with salt and pepper. Reduce
temperature, add cream, cover and simmer until tender, about
20 minutes. Serves 6.
VARIATIONS Place unflattened slices on a baking sheet.
Spread with a thick layer of catchup and bake in a moderate
over (350 F.) until tender, about 45 minutes.
BROILED Do not flatten. Broil as for steaks, (page 243).
MEAT
259
ROAST SPARERIBS
2 pounds spareribs Salt and pepper
Place spareribs in a shallow baking dish and sprinkle with
salt and pepper. Roast in a moderately slow oven (300 to
3 2 5 F. ) about 1 l /z hours. Allow 1 pound per serving.
Cover spareribs with greased paper and roast for % hour,
then roast, uncovered for remaining time. Just before taking
meat from oven, sprinkle with 1 cup bread crumbs seasoned with
5/4 teaspoon each of sage and minced onion. Baste with drippings
in pan and return to oven 5 minutes longer.
STUFFED SPARERIBS Use 2 matching sections of spareribs.
Sew the edges together, except at 1 end. Fill with Bread Stuffing,
Celery Stuffing (page 304) or apple stuffing, and sew or skewer
the edges together. Bake in a moderately slow oven (300 to
325 F.) for \ l / 2 hours.
BARBECUED SPARERIBS Brown spareribs under broiler. Pour
Barbecue Sauce (page 253) over ribs, cover pan and bake.
WITH SAUERKRAUT Brown spareribs. Place sauerkraut in
a greased baking dish. Sprinkle with brown sugar. Add l /2 cup
water and arrange spareribs on top. Cover dish and cook in a
moderately slow oven (300 to 325 F.) for 1 hour.
BRAISED SPARERIBS Place spareribs in a baking dish and
brown in a hot oven (450 F.). Season with salt and pepper,
add l /2 cup water, cover pan and return to oven. Reduce
temperature to moderately slow (325 F.) and continue cooking
until tender, about 40 minutes longer. If desired, place cored
apples around the ribs. Fill centers of apples with brown sugar
and nut meats or raisins.
CROWN AND CANDLE ROAST OF PORK
Crown of pork Pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons salt Cubes of salt pork
Have crown prepared at the market. Rub salt and pepper
into meat. Cover tip of each bone with salt pork. Roast in a
moderate oven (350 F.) allowing 30 minutes per pound. To
serve, replace salt pork with paper frills. If desired, center of
roast may be filled with stuffing and baked. See Roast Lamb
(page 256). For candle roast, do not roll ribs but leave loin in
one straight piece. Roast with fat side up.
260
SAUTEED PORK CHOPS
Pork chops are delicious sauted. They require from twenty
to thirty minutes. Some cooks sprinkle a little powdered sage
over them, as well as salt and pepper, and thicken the gravy
with flour. Sauted apples are delicious served with the sauted
pork chops. Tomato sauce is good also.
PORK PIE
2 or 3 poun,ds thick end of Salt and pepper
loin of pork 1 or 2 tablespoons catchup
1 cup stock or water Parsley
Plain pie paste Onion
Cut pork into thick slices three inches long by two wide.
Put a layer on the bottom of a pie-plate and sprinkle chopped
parsley and onion, salt and pepper over it. Repeat until the
dish is full and then pour in stock or water and catchup. Put
a strip of good plain paste around the edge of the dish, cover
with the paste, cut an opening in the center, and set the pie
in a hot oven (450 F.). When the crust rises and begins to
color, place the pie in the bottom of the oven, put a piece of
paper over it and bake at a lower temperature (350 F.) for
two hours. Often the meat is partly cooked before the crust
is put on.
FRESH PORK WITH VEGETABLES
1 pound pork butt 1 small red cabbage
4 large carrots Seasoning
4 large parsnips
Simmer the piece of pork one and one-half houra. Cook the
vegetables in the same kettle until they are soft, then remove
them and finish cooking the meat. Cut the pork into thin
slices. Arrange them side by side down the middle of a large
platter, and make a border of the cabbage, quartered, and the
other vegetables cut into lengths.
BOILED. ' PIGS ' FEET
6 pigs' feet l l / 2 tablespoons salt
Scrape and wash the feet thoroughly and tie each separately
in a piece of cheese-cloth. Put them into a kettle or stew-pan,
MEAT 261
cover with boiling water and add the salt. Let the water boil
up once, then set back on the fire and simmer for six hours.
Cool in the water. When cold, drain, but do not take off the
cloth, and place the feet on a platter. The next day they will
be ready for broiling, frying or pickling.
BROILED.
6 boiled pigs' feet Flour
Salt and pepper Butter
Split each foot, dredge with salt, pepper and flour and broil
over clear coals for ten minutes. Serve on a hot platter, season-
ing with butter, salt and pepper.
f
FRIED.
6 boiled pigs' feet 1 egg
Salt and pepper Bread-crumbs
Lemon-juice
Split the feet and season well with salt, pepper and lemon-
juice. Dip in beaten egg, then in bread-crumbs and fry five
minutes in deep fat (375-390 F.). Drain and serve imme-
diately.
BROWNED.
6 boiled pigs' feet Butter or other fat
l /z cup crumbs 2 cups boiled beets, fresh or
1 egg canned
Dip the feet in beaten egg, then in crumbs, and brown in
fat. Bake in casserole at 350 F., basting with butter or other
fat. Serve in the casserole with beets surrounding the pigs'
feet.
PICKLED (SoucE).
4 good-sized boiled pigs' feet, 1 tablespoon broken cinnamon
with uppers % cup salt
1 quart strong vinegar 2 teaspoons pepper
4 bay-leaves l / 2 onion
1 tablespoon whole cloves 1 blade mace
Clean the feet carefully, and cover them with hot water.
Boil slowly until the meat will separate from the bones, then
take them up carefully on a skimmer? and place them in a
stone jar, taking out the largest bones. Set the water aside in
a cool place to be used later.
262
j^f
Place the vinegar on the fire, adding bay -leaves, cloves, cinna-
mon, salt, pepper, onion cut in eighths, and mace. Steep slowly
in the vinegar for forty-five minutes, but do not allow the
vinegar to boil rapidly at any time. Remove the fat cake from
the top of the water in which the feet were boiled, and save it
for cooking purposes. Add about one quart of the water to
the vinegar; if the vinegar is not very strong, less water must
be added, so that the vinegar may not be too much diluted.
Strain the liquid through a sieve to remove the spice, etc., and
pour it over the meat in the jar, helping it through the meat
with a knife and fork until the two are thoroughly mixed. Set
the jar in a cold place for two days.
SCRAPPLE
1 hog's head Corn-meal
Salt and pepper Buckwheat flour
Powdered herbs
Scrape and clean a hog's head, then split it and take out the
eyes and brain. The butcher will do this, if requested. Clean
the ears and scrape them well. Put all on to boil in plenty of
cold water and simmer gently for four hours, or until the bones
will easily slip from the meat. Lift out the meat and bones into
a colander, remove the bones and chop the meat fine. Skim
off every particle of grease from the water in which the meat
was boiled, and return the meat to the boiling stock in the
kettle. Season highly with salt and pepper and powdered herbs.
Add enough corn-meal and buckwheat flour, in equal quantities,
to make a soft mush, stirring constantly for the first fifteen
minutes, then lower the heat and cook for one hour. Pour
into bread pans, cool, and keep in a cold place until needed.
The scrapple may be served cold or may be cut into slices,
dipped in egg and cracker-crumbs and sauted.
HEAD-CHEESE
1 hog's head with ears and Sage
tongue Sweet marjoram
Salt and pepper Powdered cloves
Head-cheese is usually made of the head, ears and tongue of
pork. Clean the head with the utmost care and boil all the
meat and bones in salted water until the meat is very tender,
MEAT
263
about two or three hours. Take out the head, place it in a
colander to drain, and remove all the bones. Cut the ears in
very thin slices. Season the whole to taste with salt, pepper,
sage, sweet marjoram and other herbs, and a little powdered
cloves. Mix the mass well, and pack it tightly in a bowl, inter-
spersing layers of the mixture with slices of the boiled ears.
Press the whole into a compact shape and cover with a plate,
on which place a heavy weight. The head-cheese will be ready
to use in two or three days. It may be cut in thin slices and
served with vinegar and mustard, or it may be cut in slices,
dipped in egg and cracker-crumbs and fried.
BOILED HAM
1 ham Brown sugar Whole cloves
Wash ham thoroughly, cover with boiling water and sim-
mer, partially covered, for 25 to 30 minutes per pound, or until
meat is tender. When cooked the internal temperature will be
(160 F.). If ham is to be served cold, let it stand in water
until it is cold, then peel off skin and serve. If it is to be
served hot, peel off skin, rub with brown sugar, stick in a few
cloves and bake in a hot oven (400 F.) to brown. When-
ever possible follow packers cooking directions.
ROAST OR BAKED HAM
1 ham 1 teaspoon mustard
Brown sugar Whole cloves
Soft bread-crumbs
Cover ham with boiling water, simmer about 20 minutes per
pound. Whenever possible, follow directions given by packers
as to the best method for cooking their hams. Drain and remove
skin. Mix sugar and crumbs in the proportions of four parts
sugar to one of crumbs, add mustard and spread over ham. In-
sert cloves one inch apart, making a diamond pattern. Bake in
a slow oven (300 F.), allowing ten minutes per pound. To
stuff, remove bone; see Stuffings, page 303.
BROILED HAM
Place the slices on broiler and turn them frequently. Either
boiled ham or raw ham may be used for broiling.
264
FRIED HAM WITH CREAM GRAVY
1 pound ham in slices 1 cup milk
about l /2 inch thick Pepper
1 tablespoon flour
If the ham is too salt, place it in a frying-pan, cover with
cold water and set the pan on a range in mild heat. When the
steam commences to rise, pour off the water and add more cold
water. As soon as this water steams, lift out the slices of meat
and drain well before frying. Place the meat in a hot pan,
and cook without addition of fat, unless the ham is exception-
ally lean; in this case, a spoonful of drippings should be used.
When the ham is nicely browned, place it on a platter, and
add a cup of milk to the fat in the pan. When this boils,
thicken it to a cream with one or two tablespoons of flour mixed
to a smooth paste with a little cold milk, season with pepper,
then turn the gravy over the ham. A more simple gravy is
made by adding a little hot water to the fat in the pan and
pouring this over the meat.
FRIED HAM AND EGGS
Fry a slice of ham, browning both sides. Break each egg
separately in a saucer and slip into the hot fat in the frying-
pan. Lower the heat, and baste with the hot fat. As soon as
the color changes, they are done. Place them on top of the
ham and send to the table hot.
SAUSAGES
1 pound sausage 1 cup milk
1 tablespoon flour Salt and pepper
When cooking sausage in casings, prick the skins thoroughly
with a steel fork to prevent their brusting. If cooking in bulk,
shape the sausage meat into balls with the hands. Place them
in a hot frying-pan and fry until brown, adding no fat, as
there will generally be plenty in the meat. When done, re-
move the sausage to a platter. Pour off all but one tablespoon
of fat, add one tablespoon of dry flour and cook one minute,
stirring all the time; then gradually add one cup of milk, still
stirring. When the gravy is boiling and is of a creamy con-
HE CANDLE ROAST OF
PORK IS AN INTERESTING
VARIATION
National Live Stock and
Meat Board
WHEN THE BONE IS A NUI-
SANCE, REMOVE IT ANB
STUFF THE HAM BEFORE
BAKING
THE 8ROILER 08 FRYER IS MORE
DELECTABLE WHEN YOU BREAK
ALL THE JOINTS, CLIP OFF
THE NECK AND BACKBONE
AND SNAP OUT THE BREAST-
BONE. ADD THESE BITS T
YOUR SOUP KETTLE
Institute American Potiltry
Industries
,
MEAT 265
sistency, add salt and pepper to taste, pour the gravy over the
sausage and serve.
POTTED HAM
1 cup cold cooked ham Powdered mace
Cayenne pepper Mustard
Mince some cold, cooked ham, mixing lean and fat together,
and pound in a mortar, seasoning with a little cayenne pepper,
mace and mustard. Put into a baking-dish and place in the
oven (350 F.) for one-half hour; afterward pack it into pots
or little stone jars, covering with paraffin and paper,, This is
convenient for sandwiches.
FRIED OR BROILED BACON
Cut the bacon very thin. Place in a hot pan and cook until
brown. Turn the slices frequently, and in cooking a large
quantity remove some of the fat from the pan occasionally.
To broil bacon, place the strips on a broiler and lay the
broiler over a dripping-pan. Bake in the oven or broil under
direct heat. To keep bacon flat, broil between racks.
BACON AND EGGS
Fry lean strips of bacon .until crisp. Remove and lay them
on a platter. Break the eggs separately, gently slide them into
the bacon fat and cook until they are set. See page 373.
FRIED SALT PORK WITH CREAM GRAVY
1 pound salt pork 1 pint milk
10 tablespoons flour Salt and pepper
Cut the slices thin and place them in cold water. After they
have soaked one hour, drain well and dry them on a napkin.
Heat the frying-pan very hot. Place one-half cup (8 table-
spoons) of flour on a plate and dip each piece of meat in it.
Fry until crisp. Drain off all but two tablespoons of the fat
and stir two tablespoons of flour into that remaining in the
pan. Cook two minutes, stirring well, then reduce the heat
and slowly add one pint of milk. When the gravy is smooth,
cook one minute and add pepper and salt, if needed. Turn the
gravy over the meat and serve.
266
^N^^^-^_^N^^^^V--^V-^-X-^^-N^^_^V-^-V-'
LIVER CASSEROLE
1 pound calf's liver 1 teaspoon Worcestershire
% cup tomato sauce sauce
Dash salt and pepper
Wash liver, cut into IJ/z-inch cubes and place in casserole.
Add sauce and seasoning, cover and bake at 350 F. l / 2 hour.
Just before serving, add Worcestershire sauce.
BRAISED LIVER WITH STUFFING
1 calf's liver (about 2 pounds) Flour to dredge
Bread Stuffing No. 2 3 strips salt pork
(page 303) y% cup water
Salt and pepper
Wipe liver with a damp cloth and dry. Make an incision in
the thickest part using a sharp knife. Fill with stuffing, sew edges
together, season with salt and pepper and dredge with flour.
Place in a baking pan and place strips of salt pork on top. Add
water, cover pan and cook in a moderate oven (350 F.) until
tender, 1 l /z to 2 hours. About 1 minutes before serving remove
cover so that salt pork may brown. Thicken gravy in pan and
serve with meat. Serves 8.
VARIATION Bacon may be used in place of salt pork.
LIVER AND BACON
Y 2 pound sliced bacon Flour
ll/2 pounds calf's liver, cut 1 teaspoon salt
Y 2 inch thick y s teaspoon pepper
Place a single layer of bacon in a cool frying pan and place
over low heat. Turn bacon frequently and drain off excess fat
so that the bottom of the pan is well greased. Cook slowly until
bacon is light golden brown and crisped. Drain on absorbent
paper. Keep in a hot place. Wipe liver with a damp cloth and
dry thoroughly. Roll in flour to which salt and pepper have
been added. Saute in drippings at reduced heat 5 to 8 minutes,
until browned on both sides and center is just done. Overcook-
ing ruins liver. Serves 4.
Place the liver in the center of the platter with the bacon
MEAT 267
around it as a garnish. Put flour into the hot fat in the pan
and stir until brown. Make a medium sauce of this browned
flour and water. Season with salt and pepper, and pour the
gravy over the liver and bacon.
SWEETBREADS
PREPARING SWEETBREADS Sweetbreads should be plunged
into cold water as soon as they are received, and soaked for one
hour, then they should be parboiled in acidulated, salted water
(one teaspoon salt and one tablespoon vinegar to one quart
water) for twenty minutes. After draining they should be
plunged into cold water again to make them firm. The little
strings and membranes, which are easily detached after parboil-
ing, should be removed.
BROILED.
2 pairs sweetbreads Lemon-juice
Butter Salt and pepper
Prepare as directed, then cut into thin slices, sprinkle with
salt and pepper, and broil. Serve with melted butter to which
a little lemon-juice has been added.
FRIED.
2 pairs sweetbreads Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons flour Egg
1 cup milk Bread or cracker-crumbs
Prepare as directed and cut in even-sized slices. Sprinkle
with salt and pepper, dip in beaten egg and crumbs and fry in
deep fat. When well browned on both sides, place them on a
platter. Make a sauce with two tablespoons of the fat in which
the sweetbreads were fried, the flour and milk and season with
salt and pepper.
Fried sweetbreads are often served with green peas, placed
in a mound or a little hill in the center of the platter. Macaroni
may be boiled very tender and laid on the platter and the sweet-
breads placed in the center, the pipes of the macaroni being laid
about them in the form of a nest.
268
CREAMED.
2 pairs sweetbreads 1 teaspoon minced parsley
4 tablespoons butter or other 2 cups milk or cream
fat Salt and pepper
4 tablespoons flour
Prepare as directed and cut into dice. Make a white sauce
with the fat, flour and milk or cream, add the sweetbreads, and
stir steadily until very hot. Season with salt and pepper and
minced parsley.
LARDED.
2 pairs sweetbreads 1 pint seasoned stock
Salt pork for larding 6 slices toast
Prepare sweetbreads as directed. Lard them with salt pork,
letting the ends of the strips curl over the edge of the sweet-
breads. Lay in a roasting-pan, pour the stock over them, cover
and cook in a slow oven (350 F.) for one hour. Serve on
toast. Thicken the gravy in the pan and pour it around them.
STEWED CALF'S HEART
2 calves' hearts 2 tablespoons flour
1 bay-leaf 2 tablespoons butter or other
Salt and pepper fat
l /z lemon
Hearts must be carefully washed and the veins, arteries and
clotted blood removed. After washing, place the hearts in a
kettle with enough boiling water to cover them, and simmer
for one and one-half hours. Remove all the fat, and set aside
to cool. When the dish is intended for breakfast, this cooking
must be done the day before.
In the morning, cut the heart into small pieces, remove all
the cords and artery cases, and use only the lean portions. Place
the chopped heart in a saucepan, add the water and bay-leaf, a
dusting of salt and pepper, and simmer gently for ten minutes.
Rub the flour and butter or other fat together, add them, with
sliced lemon, stir thoroughly for five minutes, and serve at
once.
MEAT 269
STEWED BEEF HEART
1 beef heart 1 tablespoon chopped celery
Bread Stuffing No. 3, omit- Flour or corn-starch
ting sage
Wash the heart well, remove the large veins and arteries from
the inside and take out every particle of blood. Add the celery
to the stuffing and stuff the cavity of the heart. Tie the heart
about with twine, and wrap it in a cloth, sewing the ends to-
gether to keep the stuffing in. Place in a small stewpan with
the point of the heart down, and nearly cover with water boil-
ing hot. Place the lid on the stew-pan and simmer gently for
three hours. When done, there should be about one pint of
water in the pan. Remove the cloth and place the heart on a
platter. Thicken the liquor in the pan with flour or corn-
starch mixed with a little cold water, and season with salt and
pepper. Pour tjie gravy over and around the heart.
SMOKED BEEF TONGUE
1 smoked beef tongue 10 chopped, cooked mush-
1 cup Spanish sauce rooms
Scrub the tongue. Soak it in cold water over night, then
place it in enough fresh cold water to cover it, and simmer for
five hours. Drain, lay in cold water for two or three minutes,
remove the skin, trimming the thick end of the tongue neatly,
and again place it in hot water for a few minutes. Drain and
lay on the serving-dish, and pour over it sauce piquante or
Spanish sauce, to which the mushrooms have been added just
before serving.
VIRGINIA BEEF TONGUE
1 beef tongue, fresh l / 4 cup butter or other fat
1 cup brown sugar 1 tablespoon whole cloves
1 cup stewed cranberries J/2 lemon
Scrub the tongue and simmer it until tender, in water to
cover. Remove the skin and trim the root end. Take one cup
of the liquor in which the tongue was cooked and add the
brown sugar, stewed cranberries, butter or other fat, cloves,
and lemon, sliced. Simmer the tongue in this mixture for one-
270
*%-^w^x
fourth hour. Place on a dish with the sauce, garnish with slices
of lemon and sprigs of p?.rsley and serve.
Tongue may be jellied and served cold.
BRAIN RISSOLES
2 cups brains or 2 tablespoons chopped green
1 whole brain pepper
Pie paste or short biscuit l /z cup thick white sauce
dough % teaspoon salt
Put the brains into a bowl of cold water, with salt, for
thirty minutes. Cover with water and simmer fifteen minutes.
Remove fiber and outer membrane. Drain, chop or put
through the meat grinder, add seasoning and white sauce.
Form into small balls. Roll pie paste or short biscuit dough
quite thin. Place the balls on the paste equal distances apart.
Place another sheet of paste over all. Stamp out with round
cutter or cut them apart and press upper and lower crusts to-
gether. Bake in hot oven (450 F.) for fifteen minutes.
Brown in deep hot fat or oil (375-390 F.) before serving.
STEWED KIDNEYS
3 cups veal or beef kidneys 2 tablespoons flour
2 bay-leaves 2 tablespoons butter or other
l /2 lemon fat
Salt and pepper
Split the kidneys and cut out the hard, white substances and
fat from the center. Wash them well and soak for three or
four hours in cold water, changing the water as soon as it be-
comes cloudy. Then put the kidneys into a granite pan, add
enough cold water to cover them and heat slowly. When just
at the boiling-point, pour off the hot water and again just
cover them with cold water, once more heating slowjy and again
changing the water when hot. Change the water in this way
three times, then simmer (twenty minutes for small kidneys;
forty minutes for a beef kidney.) Set away to cool. If the
stew is to be used for a breakfast dish, this preliminary cooking
must be done the day before. When ready to prepare, separate
all the cords and veins from the kidneys, leaving only the lean
part. Cut this into small pieces. Place the chopped kidneys
MEAT 271
in a granite pan, add the bay-leaves, two cups of water and
the lemon, sliced, and simmer for twenty minutes. When
ready to serve, remove the bay-leaves, add the flour rubbed
smooth in the butter or other fat, season with salt and pepper^
and when thickened to the consistency of cream, serve on a
hot dish.
BROILED KIDNEYS
6 lamb's or 4 calf's kidneys Butter
Cooking oil Lemon
Salt and pepper Parsley
Cut the kidneys into halves, remove the white tubes and fat
and cover with cold water for thirty minutes. Drain and dry
on a piece of cheese-cloth. Brush with, or dip into, cooking
oil. Broil slowly until brown on both sides. Remove from the
broiler and put in pan, sprinkle with salt, pepper and a little
melted butter. Cover the pan and set over a slow fire for a
few minutes. Serve garnished with slices of lemon and sprigs
of parsley.
SAUTEED KIDNEYS
Remove the skin from the kidneys, cut them into thin round
slices, and soak them in salted water for thirty minutes. Drain
and wipe. Saute until tender in butter or other fat. Serve with
brown sauce or tomato sauce.
If preferred, cut the kidneys in half after skinning, remove
the white tubes and fat and then slice the kidneys lengthwise.
TRIPE
PREPARING TRIPE Tripe is usually sold in the city markets
already cleaned. If not so obtainable, wash well through
several boiling waters, then put it in cold water and let it soak
over night.
STEWED WITH ONIONS
2 pounds tripe Salt and pepper
2 onions 1 cup hot milk
Butter
Simmer the tripe and onions in salted water for three or four
hours. Drain. Chop the cooked onions very fine, place them
in hot milk, and season with salt, pepper and butter. Pour this
over the tripe and serve at once.
STEWED WITH TOMATO SAUCE
2 pounds tripe Salt and pepper
1 onion 1 tablespoon butter or other
2 cups tomatoes fat
2 tablespoons flour
Choose the honeycomb portions and the thick section of
tripe. Wash it carefully, cover with hot water, add the onion,
cut in halves, cover the stew-pan and simmer for thirty-five
minutes. The tripe will then be tender and soft, but long cook-
ing will make it tough and hard.
Place the tomatoes in a separate stew-pan, cook them for ten
minutes and strain through a sieve. Make a sauce of the to-
matoes, flour, seasoning and fat.
When the tripe is cooked, drain well, place on a hot plate and
cut into slender strips. Then drain again, pressing the tripe
gently between the back of a spoon and the plate to remove
as much water as possible. Place it in the tomato sauce and
serve as soon as the sauce is thoroughly heated through.
LIVER LOAF WITH PAN GRAVY
iy 2 pounds beef liver 2 tablespoons flour
iy 2 cups boiling water 2 cups soft bread crumbs
2 slices salt pork, l/ 4 inch thick 2 eggs, slightly beaten
1 medium-sized onion Salt and pepper
y 4 cup chopped parsley iy 2 cups cold water
"Wash liver quickly under running water, cover with boiling
water and let stand 10 minutes; drain. Grind with 2 slices
salt pork and an onion; add parsley, crumbs, eggs, 1 teaspoon
salt and % teaspoon pepper, and mix thoroughly. Press into
baking pan, 8x4x3 inches, and bake in moderate oven (350 F,)
about 1 hour, or until browned. Remove loaf to hot platter.
Stir flour into drippings and brown; add water gradually and
cook five minutes, stirring until thickened; season to taste and
pour over loaf.
MEAT
273
LIVER PIQUANTE WITH VEGETABLES
2 pounds liver 1 cup sliced carrots
Fat salt pork y 2 cup sliced onion
Y 2 pound lean salt pork 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
2 cups boiling water Bit of bay leaf
Small sprig of thyme
Buy liver in solid piece, wash thoroughly, dry and lard with
strips of fat pork (page 3). Cut lean salt pork in pieces and
try out slightly; add liver and brown on all sides. Add hot
water, vegetables and seasonings, cover and bake in moderate
oven (350 F.) until liver is tender, or about 1 hour for veal
liver and 2 hours for beef liver. Serve on hot platter surrounded
by vegetables. Approximate yield: 8 portions.
SAVORY LIVER
iy 2 pounds beef liver, sliced 2 tablespoons flour
thin % teaspoon salt
1/4 cup chopped onion Dash pepper
2 teaspoons chopped parsley 3 tablespoons vinegar
2 tablespoons butter 2l/ 2 cups bouillon
Saute onion and parsley in butter in frying pan until lightly
browned; stir in flour, seasonings and vinegar, and add bouillon
gradually, stirring and cooking until well mixed. Place liver
in gravy and cook, covered 1 5 minutes, turning once.
REINDEER
Government breeding of reindeer has brought the meat back
on the market in modern form. It is shipped frozen and may be
thawed at low temperature or put directly under the broiler or
in the oven, when additional time for cooking must be allowed.
It is very much like beef or veal, with less fat, and has a pleas-,
ant gamy flavor. The round is the desirable cut and steaks,
pot roast, oven roast, chops and cutlets are prepared like beef
or veal except that they need larding more often.
POULTRY AND GAME
T)OULTRY includes all the domesticated birds that are used
-- for food chicken and fowl, turkeys, squabs and pigeons,
geese and ducks. Game includes wild birds ducks, geese,
partridge, reed birds, quail, plover, etc., and animals suitable
for food which are pursued and taken in field or forest, as the
deer, moose and rabbit.
The flesh of game, except that of partridge and quail, is dark
in color and has a fine strong flavor. The flesh of wild birds,
except that of wild ducks and geese, contains less fat than the
flesh of poultry.
Seasons for Fresh Poultry and Game
Poultry in some form is available in the market at every
season. Chickens weighing about one and one-half pounds,
known as Spring chickens or broilers, begin to appear in the
market during January. The height of the season for broilers,
however, is May and June. The so-called milk-fed or early
Spring chickens appear in the market in July and are available
until August.
Roasting chickens begin to appear in September, and Phila-
delphia capons come into the market at about the same time.
Fowl are in the market now-a-days throughout the year.
The season for turkey and ducks is the same as for chickens.
Goose about twelve weeks old, known as green goose, is
available from May to September. Geese, also, may be found in
the market throughout the year.
Fresh quail and partridge are in the market from Oct. 15 to
Jan. 1. Cold-storage birds may be found much later. Grouse
is fresh in the Fall. The cold-storage birds are obtainable
throughout the year. Plover are in season from April to Sep-
tember.
Selecting Poultry and Game
There are a few general rules to be observed in the selection
of young tender poultry and game.
They should be plump in appearance, haVe smooth, soft legs
and feet and smooth, moist skin.
274
POULTRY AND GAME 275
The lower or rear end of the breast-bone should be flexible,
the skin should be easily broken when twisted between the
thumb and finger, and the joint of the wing should yield
readily when turned backward.
The eyes should be bright, the comb red, and there should
be an abundance of pin feathers.
Birds with a yellow skin are likely to be plump, those with
white skins are likely to be tender.
Bruised, dry or purplish skin is an indication of careless
dressing and of age. Hard, dry, scaly legs, hard breast-bone
and the presence of long hairs are all signs of an old and tough
bird.
Avoid birds with a full crop. Buy dry-picked poultry when-
ever possible. Scalding the bird before plucking it impairs the
flavor.
Poultry and game unless they are in cold storage, should not
be kept long uncooked. They should be drawn as soon as pur-
chased, and should be kept in a cool place.
Unless hen turkeys are young, small and plump, cock turkeys
are more satisfactory.
Geese should have an abundance of pin-feathers, soft feet
and pliable bills.
There is more meat in proportion to the amount of bone in
fowls weighing five to six pounds than there is in smaller birds.
Broilers should weigh one to two pounds.
To Clean and Dress Poultry
Cut off the head and remove the pin-feathers with a sharp,
pointed knife. Singe by holding the bird over a flame, turning
on all sides until all down and hair have been burnt off.
If the feet and tendons were not removed at the market, cut
through the skin around the lower joint or "drum-stick," one
and one-half inches below the joint that connects the foot with
the leg, but do not cut the tendons. Place the leg with this
cut at the edge of the table and break the bone by pressing
downward. Hold the bird in the left hand and with the right
pull off the foot, and with it the tendons. In an old bird, the
tendons must be removed one by one with a skewer or trussing
needle.
To Prepare Poultry for Cooking Whole
Make a small incision below the breast-bone. Insert the hand
and carefully loosen the internal organs, the entrails, the giz-
zard, the heart and the liver. Reserve the last three; these are
known as the giblets. Care should be taken not to break the
gall bladder, which is attached to the liver. The liquid content
of the gall bladder is very bitter, and makes the flesh unpleasant
to eat.
Remove and discard the lungs and the kidneys. Insert two
fingers under the skin close to the neck and remove the wind-
pipe and the crop. Pull back the skin of the neck and cut off
the neck close to the body, leaving enough of the neck skin
to fold down under the back if the bird is to be roasted. Re-
move the oil bag from the tail.
Clean the inside of the bird by running water through it and
wipe the outside with a damp cloth.
To STUFF POULTRY OR GAME Fill the opening at the neck
end with sufficient stuffing to make the bird look plump. Put
the remaining stuffing in the body. If the body is full, sew
up the opening; if not full, bring the skin together with a
skewer. Do not fill the cavity too full. Allowance must be
made for swelling of the stuffing especially when the stuffing
is made with cracker-crumbs.
To TRUSS POULTRY OR GAME FOR ROASTING Clean, dress
and stuff. Tie a piece of twine to the end of the neck -skin and
pull the neck-skin over the back. Slip the ends of the wings
over the back and press the wings close to the body. Press the
thighs close to the body, draw the ends of the twine back on
each side and up over the thighs. Cross the twine between
the legs, and tie it down under the tail.
If the poultry or game has little fat it should be larded with
thin strips of salt pork or bacon laid across the breast. To pre-
vent the burning of the legs, wind them with strips of cloth
which have been dipped in melted fat.
To Dress Birds for Broiling, Frying, Etc.
FOR BROILING Singe the bird, cut off the head and neck
close to the breast and the legs at the knee joints. Beginning
at the neck, make a cut through the back-bone for the entire
''V
& mm
E A S O N ' S BEST - D R ESS^E D
EARS STUFFING UNDER
SKIN OF THE BREAST AS
ELL AS IN THE BODY (above)
BEFORE TUCKING
AWAY IN THE
ROASTERA COVER
THE FOWL WITH
BODY FAt AND A
FAT- SATURATED! I
CHEESEqLOTH. j
TURN BREAST SIDE ! *
DOWN FOR THE ;
BEGINNING AND
Y04I WILL HAVE
A SELF RASTE
-Institute American'
Poultry Industries
I
C IS SIMPLER THAN
,K TRUSSING WITH
^USS BUCK-HEADED PINS.
EMOVE THE PINS AFTER
**mNC AND THE STRING
S OFF
titute American Poultry
POR TH| HURRY-UP DINNlf
THERE, g THE QUICK-FROZEN
FOWL# CLEANED AND DRAWN
ANDjjfADY FOR THE OVE^^
POULTRY AND GAME 277
length of the bird. Lay the bird open and remove the contents.
Cut the tendons or break the joints. Cut out the rib-bones and
remove the breast-bone, to facilitate carving.
To MAKE FILLETS Remove the skin from the breast and
with a sharp knife make an incision close to the breast-bone,
beginning at the end next the wish-bone and cutting through
the entire length. Following the bone closely, remove all the
meat, cutting it away from the wing joint. This fillet may
be separated into two parts, the upper or larger muscle making
the "large fillet" and the smaller "fillet mignon."
To CUT UP A FOWL Remove pin-feathers, singe the fowl,
cut off the head, tendons and oil-bag.
Cut off the legs at the thigh joint. Separate the first joint
or drumstick from the thigh.
Cut the wings from the body. Cut off the tips of the wings.
Separate the breast from the back by cutting clear down both
sides of the bird below the ribs.
Remove the heart, liver, gizzard, entrails and fat all together.
Remove windpipe and crop. Carefully remove the lungs and
kidneys from the back-bone.
Cut back and breast into two pieces each, cutting crosswise.
The back is sometimes further divided by cutting lengthwise.
The wish-bone may be removed by inserting a knife under the
tip and cutting downward, the knife following the bone.
To Clean Giblets
Cut the fat and membrane from the gizzard. Make a gash
in the thickest part, cutting to, but not through the inner lin-
ing. Remove the inner sac and throw it away. Carefully
separate the gall bladder from the liver and cut off any part of
the liver that has a greenish color. Remove arteries and veins
from the top of the heart and squeeze out the clot of blood.
Chickens
ROAST CHICKEN
1 roasting chicken Salt and pepper
Stuffing Flour
Fat
Wash, singe and draw the bird, rub it with salt and pepper
inside and out, and stuff with any desired stuffing. Bread
stuffing, chestnut stuffing and celery stuffing are particularly
good. Truss and tie the fowl. Brush skin with melted or soft-
ened fat. Turn breast side down and cover bird with a cloth
dipped in fat. Place in a moderate oven (325 to 350 F.). Cook
uncovered breast side down about one half the total time. Turn
breast side up. Place any strips of body fat removed in dressing
over breastbone. Bacon or salt pork strips may be used. Baste
with extra fat. The cloth may be removed toward the end of
the cooking if the bird is not well browned. Allow 30 minutes
per pound for small birds; 22 to 25 minutes per pound for
larger birds.
BROILED CHICKEN
Unless you are quite certain the chickens are tender, it is
wise to steam them before broiling. This may be done as fol-
lows: Set the dripping-pan in a moderate oven (350-400
F.) and nearly fill it with boiling water. Place two sticks across
the pan, extending from side to side, and upon them lay the
chicken. Invert a tin pan over it, shut the oven door and let
the chicken steam slowly for thirty minutes. This process
relaxes the muscles and makes the joints supple, besides preserv-
ing the juices that would be lost in parboiling.
Transfer the chicken from this vapor bath to a wire broiler,
turning the inside to the fire first. Broil until the chicken is
tender and brown, turning it frequently. If the chicken is
small, it will cook in twenty minutes or less. Do not have too
hot a fire. Lay the chicken on a warmed platter, spread it with
butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve.
PANNED CHICKEN
1 chicken . Salt and pepper
l/ 4 cup fat 1 tablespoon cracker or
Flour bread-crumbs
1 cup hot milk Onion-juice
Cress Chopped parsley or tarragon
Prepare a chicken as for broiling and slightly flatten it with a
rolling-pin. Place in pan, lay bits of fat upon it, and place it
in a moderate oven (350 F.) allowing 15 to 20 minutes per
pound. Bake uncovered. Baste with drippings every half
hour. When it is nearly done, remove from the oven, salt
POULTRY AND GAME 279
and pepper both sides, strew once more with bits of fat, dredge
with flour and return to the oven to brown slightly on both
sides, the under side first.
When the chicken is thoroughly done, place it on a hot
platter with the skin side uppermost, cover, and set it where
it will be kept warm. Pour hot milk into the pan and add
cracker or bread-crumbs. Season with salt and pepper, if neces-
sary, and add a few drops of onion-juice or a teaspoon of
chopped parsley or tarragon, as preferred. Stir the gravy
vigorously, let it boil one minute and turn it over the chicken.
Garnish with cress or parsley and serve.
CHICKEN, MARYLAND STYLE
2 chickens 1 cup milk or cream
Flour l / 2 cup butter or other mild
Salt and pepper fat
Bread-crumbs 2 eggs
Clean and disjoint young chickens, leaving the breasts whole.
Put the necks and giblets into cold water and simmer to obtain
a cup of stock for the gravy. Sprinkle each piece of chicken
with salt and pepper, dip in flour, beaten egg and soft crumbs
and place in a greased pan. Bake in a hot oven (480 F.)
from thirty to forty minutes, basting frequently with one-
fourth cup of fat melted in one-fourth cup of hot water.
When the chicken is done, make a gravy from the fat left
in the pan, stirring in two tablespoons of flour, one cup of milk
or cream and the cup of stock made from the giblets. If you
like, add a few button mushrooms. Serve the chicken with the
gravy poured around it.
PLANKED CHICKEN
2 large broilers 1 teaspoon minced onion
l /4 cup fat Salt and pepper
1 teaspoon minced parsley 1 pint sauted mushrooms
1 teaspoon minced green 1 quart seasoned mashed
pepper potato
1 teaspoon lemon-juice Garnishes for plank
Make a savory fat by rubbing the minced parsley, green
pepper and onion into the fat. Flavor with lemon-juice, salt
and pepper. Split the broilers, sprinkle with salt and pepper
280
%xvxv
and put in a pan. Pour over them a little oil or melted fat and
bake them (400 F.) until nearly done (about twenty min-
utes).
Prepare a plank of proper size, oil it, garnish with a border
of potatoes forced through pastry-bag and tube, place the
chicken in the center of the plank, arrange around it sauted
mushrooms and spread over the chicken the savory fat. Place
the plank in a very hot oven (500 F.) to brown the potato
border and to give the chicken the final cooking. Planked
dishes are invariably served on the plank. They may be
elaborately garnished with stuffed tomatoes, green peppers and
fancifully cut vegetables.
FRIED CHICKEN
No. 1 SOUTHERN STYLE
2 small chickens Flour
Salt and pepper l/ 4 cup fat
Cut each chicken into four or six pieces, dip each piece
quickly in cold water, then sprinkle with salt and pepper, and
roll in plenty of flour. Saute the chicken in a little fat until
each piece is brown on both sides, and admits a fork easily. Drain
the pieces well and arrange on a warm platter, setting the dish
in a hot place to keep the meat from cooling while the gravy
is being made, as on page 279.
No. 2
Dip the chicken into fritter batter and fry in deep fat
(375-390 F.) until brown. Transfer to a casserole or baking
dish and bake in a moderate oven (250 F.-350 F.) for 30-60
minutes. If the chicken is not young, parboiling before cutting
will shorten the baking time.
SMOTHERED CHICKEN
2 small chickens or 1 large one 2 or more tablespoons fat
Salt and pepper Flour
This is one of the most delicious ways of cooking chicken.
Take off the neck and split the chicken down the back, wiping
it with a damp towel. Season inside and out with salt and
pepper, and dredge on all sides with flour. Lay the chicken,
POULTRY AND GAME 281
with the inside down, in a small baking-tin, and add a very
little water. The pan should be very little larger than the
chickens, otherwise the gravy will be too quickly evaporated.
Set into a rather slow oven (300-350 F.) and cook for one
hour in a covered baking-pan or, if baked without a cover,
baste every ten minutes after the first twenty minutes.
Should the chicken be decidedly lacking in fat, add fat as
needed. When done, place the chicken on a hot platter, add
enough water to make two cups gravy and thicken with two
tablespoons flour. Should the chicken be quite fat, remove all
but two tablespoons of the oil from the pan before making the
gravy. Season with salt and pepper, pour it over the chicken
and serve at once.
BOILED CHICKEN
In "Winter there is no better way to prepare chickens than
to simmer them whole and pour over them oyster or parsley
sauce. The chicken should be well secured in a wet cloth that
has been generously sprinkled with flour, then plunged into
boiling water and simmered (not boiled) gently until the
chicken is done. Allow twenty to thirty minutes to each pound
of chicken. A large, tough chicken may be made very palatable
by preparing it in this way.
STEAMED CHICKEN OR FOWL
1 fowl (about 5 pounds) Salt and pepper
1 onion Flour
1 bay-leaf
A chicken is more tender than a fowl and is to be preferred
for light cooking, but a fat fowl a year or two old has a richer
and finer flavor, and if steamed properly, will be perfectly
tender. Singe and wash the fowl, draw and dress it as carefully
as for roasting and wipe it dry inside and out. Rub it inside
and out with salt and pepper, place an onion and a bay-leaf
inside and tie the fowl into shape as for roasting.
Then flour a cloth and wrap it about the fowl. Lay the
chicken, back downward, in a steamer and allow it to steam
continuously for three to four hours, according to its age and
size. If properly steamed it will be as good as a roasted chicken.
Serve with celery, oyster or parsley sauce. Steamed chicken
may subsequently be browned in the oven if desired.
282
STEAMED WHOLE SPRING CHICKEN
1 chicken Salt and pepper
1 cup oysters l /2 cup cream or milk
1 tablespoon fat 3 hard-cooked eggs
1 tablespoon flour Minced herbs
Prepare a full-grown Spring chicken as for roasting, season
inside and out with salt and pepper, stuff with whole, raw
oysters and place it in a steamer with a close-fitting cover, and
steam until the chicken is done, then place the chicken on a
warm dish and make a gravy as follows: Put the fat into a
saucepan with the minced herbs and flour and stir until the
mixture bubbles; add the liquor in the kettle below the steamer,
the cream or milk, and cook, stirring constantly, until the mix-
ture boils. Add the eggs, chopped fine, let the whole boil, pour
it over the chicken and serve at once.
CHICKEN POT-PIE
1 chicken 1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons flour 1 cup milk
Salt and pepper
Clean, singe and cut up the chicken, place it in a pot and
nearly cover with water. Cover the pot and simmer gently.
An old fowl will require at least three or four hours' slow cook-
ing, but a year-old chicken should be done in one and one-
half hours. Remove the cover during the last half -hour of
cooking, to reduce the gravy to about one and one-half pints
when done.
Three-fourths of an hour before time to serve, make Dump-
lings No. 2 (see Index). When the dumplings are ready to
serve, add salt and pepper to the chicken and make the gravy
by adding to the liquor in the kettle three tablespoons of flour
stirred to a paste in one cup of milk. Skim out the chicken,
lay it on a platter, place the dumplings on the top and pour
over them the gravy.*
PRESSED CHICKEN
1 chicken 1 tablespoon gelatin to each
Salt and pepper pint broth
Clean, singe and cut up a chicken. Place it in a kettle with
a little water, cover closely and simmer until the meat will fall
POULTRY AND GAME 283
from the bones. Lift the pieces from the kettle with a skimmer
and scrape all the meat from the bones, separating the white
meat from the dark and taking out the pieces of skin. Season
with salt and pepper.
Soften gelatin in two tablespoons of water for each tablespoon
of gelatin and add to the boiling chicken broth. Place the meat
in the dish it is to be pressed in, laying the white and dark in
alternate layers, and adding from time to time a little of the
broth to moisten all well. When all the meat is in the dish$
pour over it enough of the broth to cover it; lay a plate on top
of it; place a heavy weight upon the plate and set away in a
cool place. This makes an attractive dish for luncheon, sliced
and garnished with parsley.
WHITE FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN
1 chicken 1 egg-yolk
2 tablespoons fat Salt and pepper
2 cups chicken stock Herbs
2 tablespoons flour Salt pork
1 cup milk or cream Rice or dumplings
Singe, clean and cup up the chicken. Brown in a pan with
the fat. Cover with boiling water, add salt, pepper, herbs and
a few slices of salt pork. Simmer until tender (about an hour) ,
strain and thicken one pint of the liquor with the flour mixed
to a smooth paste with a little cold water; add the milk or
cream beaten with the yolk of the egg. Heat again until
slightly thickened, pour over the chicken and serve with rice
or dumplings (see Index for recipe).
BROWN
1 chicken Salt and pepper
2 or 3 small slices salt pork 1 teaspoon onion-juice, if
2 tablespoons flour desired
1 pint boiling water
Cut in pieces as directed for white fricassee. Place salt pork
in a frying-pan, and when hot put in the chicken, leaving
plenty of room to turn the meat; cook until each piece is a
rich brown. Remove the chicken and keep it warm. Add the
flour to the fat in the pan, stir well and when it has cooked two
minutes, add the boifing water. When the gravy is smooth
and boiling, replace the chicken, season with salt and pepper,
284
V*S^^>
cover the pan, and simmer gently until the chicken is tender,
then add a teaspoon of onion-juice, if desired, and serve at
once. The gravy will be thick enough, and if the pan has a
tight cover, it will not be diminished, even after long cooking.
CHICKEN PIE
1 chicken Salt and pepper
Pie paste Flour
Milk
Clean, singe and cut up chicken as for fricassee. Place in a
kettle and add enough hot water to cover. Put the cover on
the kettle, and simmer slowly until the chicken is tender, add-
ing a little more water if needed. Make a gravy of the stock,
using two tablespoons flour for each cup of stock. Use for the
crust puff paste, or a good pie paste, rolled a little thicker
than for fruit pies. Line the sides of a deep baking-dish with
crust; invert in the middle of the dish a small cup or ramekin;
put in part of the chicken and season with salt and pepper,
then add the rest of the chicken, and season the same way.
Put in the dish two cups or more of the gravy made from
broth in which the chicken was cooked and cover the top with
crust. The cup or ramekin will hold the crust up and will pre-
vent evaporation. Most chicken pie is too dry; therefore, use
a generous amount of the broth. Bake in a hot oven (450 F.)
until crust is done (one-half hour) . "When serving, after cut-
ting the first slice, carefully slip the knife under the ramekin
and release the gravy which is held there by suction. Additional
gravy should be served in a gravy-dish.
CURRY OF CHICKEN
1 chicken (l l /2 or 2 pounds) 2 tablespoons fat
1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon to 2 tablespoons
2 onions curry-powder
1 egg-yolk 1 tablespoon flour
Cut up the chicken as for fricassee, put in a saucepan with
sufficient water to cover it, and simmer until tender, keeping
the pan closely covered. Remove from the fire, take the chicken
out and pour the liquor into a bowl. Put the onions into the
saucepan with the fat and saute until brown, then skim them
out and put in the chicken ; fry for three or four minutes, then
POULTRY AND GAME 285
sprinkle over it the curry-powder. Next pour in tlie chicken
liquor, stew five minutes longer and stir in the flour mixed
until smooth with a little cold water. Stir the mixture until
it thickens; add the beaten yolk of egg, adding a little of the
hot mixture to the egg first. Serve with a border of hot boiled
rice.
SAVORY CHICKEN
T /4 cup fat l l /2 cups strained tomatoes
1 tablespoon chopped onion Salt, pepper and paprika
1 chopped carrot 1 chicken
1 slice turnip Salt-pork fat
Y 4 cup flour 1 cup button mushrooms
1 cup water 2 tablespoons chopped olives
Make a savory sauce by melting the fat and cooking in it
chopped onion, carrot and turnip cut in small pieces. Stir in
flour and add gradually boiling water and tomato, previously
stewed and strained. Season with salt, pepper and paprika.
Cut up a chicken, dredge with flour, and saute in salt-pork
fat. Remove from the pan, place in a saucepan and cover
with the savory sauce. Cook until the chicken is tender. At
the last moment, add the mushrooms and chopped olives. Ar-
range the pieces of chicken in the center of the platter and pour
the sauce around them, garnishing with triangles of toast and
stuffed olives.
SCALLOPED CHICKEN
2 cups cooked chicken meat 2 tablespoons flour
1 pint broth in which chicken Salt and pepper
was cooked Bread-crumbs
Fat 2 cur>s sliced, cooked potatoes
Cut the cooked chicken meat into dice. Thicken the broth
with a paste made of the flour and two tablespoons of fat and
season with salt and pepper. Fill a pudding-dish with alternate
layers of bread-crumbs, chicken and potatoes. Cover the top
with crumbs. Pour in the gravy and add a few bits of butter
or other fat and bake fifteen to thirty minutes in a moderate
oven (350-400 F.).
286
CREAMED CHICKEN
2 cups cooked chicken Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons fat 1 tablespoon parsley
2 tablespoons flour 1 egg-yolk
1 cup milk or cream
Make a white sauce of the fat, flour and milk. Season with
salt and pepper. Add the parsley and chicken and cook until
the sauce is thoroughly hot again. Beat the egg-yolk, adding
two tablespoons of milk, and pour into the mixture. Cook
two minutes, stirring constantly, and serve in a border of riced
potatoes or in croustades.
Creamed chicken may be varied in a number of ways: by
substituting mushrooms or chopped cooked eggs for part of
the chicken or by adding chopped pimientos and olives.
Capons
Capons are large, plump young roosters, especially fattened
for the table. They are prepared for cooking in the same way
as chickens. For stuffing, choose a delicate flavoring such as
oysters or chestnuts. Mushrooms or truffles are especially good
with capon.
Turkeys
ROAST TURKEY
Dress as directed for roast chicken and roast in an uncovered
roaster in a slow oven (300 F.) allowing 15 to 25 minutes per
pound, depending upon age and size of bird. The larger birds
require less time per pound than the small birds. Baste the bird
at half hour intervals. Serve with giblet gravy.
BRAISED TURKEY
1 turkey l / 2 cup onion
Stuffing 1/2 cup turnip
l /2 pound salt pork 4 cups water or stock
l /2 cup chopped celery Salt and pepper
l /z cup chopped carrots
This is a very satisfactory way of cooking an old turkey that
is unfit for roasting. Stuff the body and breast with any de-
POULTRY AND GAME 287
sired stuffing, and truss. Spread thin slices of salt pork over
the breast and legs, and cover the turkey with a strong sheet
of oiled paper, fastening the paper on by passing a string
around the body. In a double roasting-pan large enough to
hold the turkey, spread sliced salt pork and the chopped vege-
tables. Lay the turkey on this mixture, with the breast up,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover the pan tightly, and place
in a moderate oven (3$0-400 F.). Allow twenty-five min-
utes for each pound.
At the end of thirty minutes, add water or stock. During
the last half -hour take the cover from the pan, remove the paper
and pork from the turkey. This permits the meat to brown
lightly. Serve with mushroom sauce, or with the gravy in the
pan, strained and thickened.
FILLETS OF TURKEY WITH RICE
Breast fillets l /2 teaspoon onion- juice
Egg and crumbs Salt and pepper
1 cup white stock 2 teaspoons butter
1 cup rice 1 tablespoon grated cheese
6 tablespoons oil
Skin the breast of a plump turkey, and slice. The slices
should be nearly half an inch thick, and as nearly uniform in
size as possible. Dip in beaten egg, then in crumbs, again in the
egg, and once more in the crumbs. Set in the refrigerator. Put
the white stock into a saucepan; add rice, onion-juice and
one-half teaspoon salt^ and simmer slowly until the liquid is
absorbed.
When the rice is tender, add butter and grated cheese,^ and
season with salt and pepper. Cover and let it stand at the
side of the fire until the fillets are ready. Heat salad-oil or
cooking fat slowly in a frying-pan to 375-390 F., and cook
the fillets to a nice brown. Mound the rice in the center of a
hot dish and arrange the fillets about it.
BROILED YOUNG TURKEY
Young turkeys may be broiled or panned, like chickens. A
young turkey is easily distinguished by its smooth, black legs
and white skin.
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TURKEY CURRY
6 tablespoons fat 3 tablespoons flour
J/3 cup onion, finely chopped y 2 teaspoon salt
1 large apple, peeled, diced 1 to iy 2 teaspoons curry
1 large can mushrooms or powder
1 pound fresh mushrooms 1 l/ 2 cups turkey stock and top
3 cups turkey, diced milk, or cream
Cook onion, apple, mushrooms, and turkey in the fat until
onion and apple begin to be transparent: 10 to 15 minutes. If
fresh mushrooms are used, saute several minutes before adding
to other ingredients. Remove from heat, add salt, flour, and
curry powder and stir thoroughly. Add liquid, and cook until
thickened throughout. Set over hot water, cover and cook 15
minutes longer to blend the flavors. Taste and add more
seasoning if desired. Serve with hot boiled rice. Little or no
salt is added in cooking rice.
Goose
ROAST GOOSE WITH POTATO STUFFING
1 goose (about 8 pounds) Salt and pepper
Potato stuffing Flour
Salt pork if goose is not fat
Select a goose that is about four months old. An old goose
is better braised than roasted. Singe the goose, wash it carefully
in hot water, and wipe it dry on the outside; then draw it and
clean it thoroughly inside. Flatten the breast-bone by striking
it with a rolling-pin. Partly fill the cavity with potato stuf-
fing, stitch up the openings and truss the goose. If it is not
fat, lay thin slices of pork upon the breast, but if the goose has
considerable fat, omit the pork. Bake in a hot oven (500 F.)
for forty-five minutes. Remove it from the oven, pour out
all the fat, sprinkle the bird all over with salt and pepper,
dredge with flour, and return it to the oven. Reduce the heat
but do not let it get below 350 F.
When the flour is a good brown, pour one cup of hot water
into the pan and baste the goose often, dredging it each time
POULTRY AND GAME 289
with a slight sifting of flour to absorb the fat. Allow twenty
minutes to the pound for a young goose and twenty-five for
one that is old. Remove the goose from the pan, add a cup
of hot water to the gravy and thicken it, if necessary, with
browned flour. Garnish the goose with parsley and serve with
giblet gravy.
Apple sauce is often served with roast goose.
Goslings may be roasted in the same way, allowing, however,
only fifteen minutes to the pound for cooking.
ROAST GOOSE WITH BAKED APPLE
1 eight-pound goose 1 teaspoon salt
2 cups bread-crumbs Pinch of pepper
1 chopped onion 6 to 8 apples
2 tablespoons fat % cup brown sugar
54 teaspoon sage 3 sweet potatoes
Cook the giblets until tender, chop and add to stuffing made
by mixing bread-crumbs, onion, fat, sage, salt and pepper.
After cleaning and washing the goose thoroughly, stuff, and sew
the neck and back. Roast for fifteen minutes at 500 F., then
reduce the heat to 350 F. and cook about three hours. Wash
and core six to eight apples; sprinkle with brown sugar, stuff
with mashed and seasoned sweet potato; bake until tender and
serve hot with the goose.
DEVILED GOOSE
1 goose 1 teaspoon pepper
Potato stuffing 2 tablespoons made mustard
l /4 cup vinegar 1 tablespoon salt
After cleaning the goose and wiping it well with a damp
cloth, plunge it into a kettle of boiling water, and simmer for
one hour. Take it from the kettle, drain well, and wipe it dry.
Partly fill the body and neck with potato stuffing, sew up and
truss, and roast in a moderately hot oven (350-400 F.), al-
lowing fifteen to twenty minutes to the pound. Pour over it
a mixture of the vinegar, pepper, and made mustard, and baste
frequently. Serve with giblet gravy.
An old goose that can not be made eatable in any other way
may be cooked in this way, two hours instead of one hour
being allowed for the simmering.
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Ducks
ROAST DUCK
Epicures prefer young ducks rare, and without stuffing.
Some people consider that ducks have too strong a flavor, and
to absorb this flavor lay cored and quartered apples inside the
body. These apples are removed before the duck is sent to the
table. Celery and onions also may be placed inside the duck to
season it and improve the flavor, two tablespoons of chopped
onion being used to every cup of chopped celery, which may
consist of the green stalks that are not desired for the table.
This stuffing is also removed from the bird before it is sent to
the table. Should filling be preferred, use potato stuffing, put-
ting it in very hot.
Truss the duck, sprinkle it with salt, pepper and flour, and
roast in a very hot oven (500 F.) fifteen to thirty minutes,
provided the duck is young and is desired rare.
Full-grown domestic ducks are roasted in a moderate oven
(350 F.) allowing 20 to 25 minutes per pound. Bake uncov-
ered. Baste every half hour with drippings in pan. Serve with
giblet gravy and applesauce or grape or currant jelly. Green
peas should also be served with roast duck.
BRAISED DUCKS
1 brace ducks Parsley
3 slices bacon Salt and pepper
1 carrot 1 small turnip, diced
1 onion stuck with cloves Oil or cooking fat
Thyme Flour
Prepare ducks as for roasting, put them into a large stew-
pan with the bacon, carrot, onion and a little thyme and
parsley; season with salt and pepper and cover with water.
Simmer over a low fire until the ducks are tender, then remove
them from the pan. Cook the turnip in the fat until brown,
then drain and cook in liquor in the stew-pan, until tender.
Strain the liquor, thicken with flour and pour the gravy thus
made over the ducks. Garnish with pieces of turnip.
LAMB OR PORK
SHOULDER CAN BE
BONED AND
FILLED, WITH CAP-
TIVATING RESULTS
U. S. Bureau Home
Economics
a
POULTRY AND GAME 291
DUCK A LA CREOLE
2 cups cooked duck Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons fat Paprika
1 tablespoon flour l l / 2 cups consomme or
2 tablespoons chopped ham bouillon
2 tablespoons onion 1 clove
Chopped celery l / 4 teaspoon mace
Chopped pars-ley Chopped sweet pepper
Melt the fat and add the flour, then stir in the ham. Season
with salt, pepper, paprika, onion, celery, sweet pepper and
parsley. Stir for two minutes, add the consomme or bouillon,
the clove and mace. Simmer one hour. Strain this sauce and
stir in the cooked duck, cut into cubes. Cook just enough
longer to heat all thoroughly. Serve with diamonds of fried
hominy or mush.
Guinea Fowls
ROAST GUINEA FOWL
Roast the guinea fowl either with or without stuffing, keep-
ing it well basted and the breast covered with a slice of fat
bacon, which may be removed five minutes before serving.
Have the oven very hot (500 F.) for the first fifteen minutes;
then reduce to 350 F. Allow thirty-five to forty minutes for
a medium-sized bird. Serve with currant jelly and giblet sauce.
FRICASSEE OF GUINEA FOWL
1 guinea fowl 1 teaspoon salt
4 slices bacon % teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons flour
A guinea fowl makes a delicious fricassee. Clean and cut
in pieces. Place bacon in pan and when it has fried long enough
to extract some of the fat, add the pieces of the fowl and brown
them well. Add the flour, stir until thoroughly mixed, and
then add two cups hot water, salt and pepper, and stir until
the gravy boils. Cover well and simmer until the meat is
tender, which is generally in one and one-half to two hours.
Serve with the gravy from the bottom of the pan, adding more
salt and pepper if needed.
Peafowl
These fowls are cooked in the same way as turkeys. They
should be larded with shreds of bacon, trussed and roasted about
one and one-fourth hours.
Pheasants, Partridges, Quail and Grouse
Game should not be kept too long; birds rarely should be
hung longer than one week. Hang in a cool dry room where
the air circulates freely. If birds are to be kept many days,
draw but do not pick them before hanging. Place a piece of
charcoal in the body and sift powdered charcoal into the
feathers. A distinction must be made between white meat
and dark meat in cooking game. Quail and partridges are
white meat and, like chicken, must be thoroughly cooked but
not dried. Ducks, pigeons or squabs, grouse (prairie chicken) ,
snipe, and woodcock are dark meat and are preferred by the
epicure cooked rare and served very hot.
The methods of cooking all these birds are substantially the
same, except as to the degree of rareness desired. They should
never be washed, but simply wiped with a damp towel, all shot
being carefully picked out of the flesh with a sharp-pointed
knife. Small birds are often skinned when the birds are
cleaned. There is a difference of opinion among epicures as to
the drawing of these birds ; sometimes they are cooked undrawn.
The English do not draw woodcock, regarding the entrails as
edible, and some American housekeepers copy them in this
respect.
BROILED BIRDS
Clean the birds and split them down the back. Sprinkle with
salt and pepper, dust with flour to keep in the juices and broil
in a wire broiler, laying the inside first to the fire. Allow about
ten minutes for quail, twenty-five to forty minutes for par-
tridges and pheasants. When done, lay them on a warm dish
and butter or oil them plentifully on both sides. During the
broiling, if the breasts are quite thick, cover the broiler with
a pan, and see that the fire is not too hot.
POULTRY AND GAME 293
PANNED BIRDS
Clean the birds and split them down the back. Dip them
quickly into hot water and sprinkle with salt, pepper and flour.
The water causes the seasoning to adhere more thickly to the
meat. Place the birds in a small baking-dish with the inside of
each upward; place a teaspoon of butter or other fat in each
bird, add a cup of water, and roast in a very hot oven (500 F.)
allowing fifteen to twenty minutes for quail and proportion-
ately longer for larger birds. After the first fifteen minutes re-
duce the heat to 3 5 F. Baste every five minutes after the first
fifteen. Thicken the gravy, add salt and pepper if necessary,
and pour over the birds.
ROASTED BIRDS
Clean, truss and stuff the birds. Roast in an uncovered
pan in a moderate oven (350 F.) until meat is tender and bird
is well browned. Baste every half hour with butter or other
fat and water. Thicken the gravy and pour it over the birds.
Serve with bread sauce.
LARDED GROUSE
Grouse are rather dry birds and need to be larded to be palat-
able. Clean and wipe with a damp towel. On each bird lay
thin slices of bacon, covering the bird entirely and keeping the
bacon in place with crossings of soft twine. Place in a roasting-
pan and pour over them boiling water, sufficient to use for bast-
ing the birds while cooking. Cook in a very hot oven (500 F.)
fifteen to twenty-five minutes, basting three times. Reduce
the heat after fifteen minutes. When done, remove the strips
of bacon, brush the birds with oil, melted butter or other fat,
dredge with flour and place in the oven again until a rich brown.
The liquor in the pan may be thickened, seasoned, and used as
a gravy. Arrange the birds on a platter and garnish with rings
of sauted green peppers and the strips of bacon used to cover
the birds while roasting.
294
ROAST QUAIL
6 quail Flour
6 large oysters Salt and pepper
Strips of bacon Butter or other fat
Dress, clean and truss the birds. Stuff each with one large
oyster. Lard breast and legs with strips of bacon. Bake as di-
rected for larded grouse, allowing fifteen to twenty minutes for
cooking.
GAME PIE
6 birds 2 tablespoons browned flour
Sa4t and pepper 2 tablespoons fat
l /4 cup minced parsley 2 cups diced potatoes
l /2 chopped onion Rich paste for side and top
2 whole cloves crust
l /4 pound diced salt pork
Clean the birds thoroughly. Halve them, put them into one
quart of water and bring to boiling-point. Remove the scum,
add salt, pepper, parsley, onion, cloves and salt pork. Simmer
until tender, carefully keeping the birds covered with water.
When the birds are done, thicken the liquid with the browned
flour and let the gravy come to a boil. Add the fat, remove
from the fire and cool.
Put the paste around the sides of a greased pudding-dish, lay
in some of the birds, then some potatoes, and repeat until the
dish is full. Pour in the gravy, put on the top crust, slashed
in the center, and bake in a hot oven (450 F. to 425 F.) for
thirty-five to forty-five minutes until done.
Pigeons and Squabs
Pigeons need long, slow cooking to make them tender.
Squabs are tender and are usually broiled.
BROILED SQUAB
6 squabs Butter
Salt and pepper Toast
Split the birds down the back, flatten the breast, wipe inside
and out with a damp cloth. Put on a broiler, season with pepper
and salt, and when nicely browned, pour a generous amount
of melted butter over them. Serve on toast.
POULTRY AND GAME 295
PIGEON AND MUSHROOM STEW
3 pigeons 2 tablespoons mushroom
1 tablespoon fat catchup
1 pint stock or gravy Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons cream Cayenne
l / 2 cup mushrooms
Clean and cut pigeons into small portions and let them cook
a short time in the fat in a saucepan, being careful not to
brown them. Next add to the contents of the pan the stock
or gravy, the mushroom catchup, and salt, pepper and cayenne
to taste. Simmer an hour, or until tender, add the mushrooms,
simmer ten minutes more, and then stir in the cream. Arrange
the mushrooms around the pigeons on a hot platter.
POTTED PIGEONS
6 pigeons Chopped parsley
3 slices bacon Hot water or stock
Any simple stuffing % cup fat
1 diced carrot l / 4 cup flour
1 diced onion Buttered toast
Clean and dress pigeons, stuff, truss, and place them upright
in a stew-pan on the slices of bacon. Add the carrot, onion,
and a little parsley, and cover with boiling water or stock
Cover the pot closely and let simmer from two to three hours,
or until tender, adding boiling water or stock when necessary.
Make a sauce of the fat and flour and two cups of the stock
remaining in the pan.
Serve each pigeon on a thin piece of moistened toast, and pour
gravy over all.
PIGEON PIE
6 pigeons Flour
Bread stuffing Rich pie paste
Salt and pepper 3 hard-cooked eggs
Fat
Stuff each pigeon with bread stuffing. Loosen the joints with
a knife, but do not cut them through. Simmer the birds in
a stew-pan, with water enough to cover, until nearly tender,
then season with salt and pepper. Make a medium thick gravy
with flour, fat and liquor in which pigeons have cooked and
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let it cool. Line the sides of a greased pudding-dish with rich
paste and cut the hard-cooked eggs in slices. Put successive
layers of egg, pigeon and gravy into the dish until it is filled,
put on a cover of paste and bake (at 450 F.) for one-half
hour.
Ducks
Nearly all wild ducks are likely to have a fishy flavor, and
when dressed by an inexperienced cook are often unfit to eat.
This flavor may be much lessened by placing in each duck a
small peeled carrot, plunging the fowls in boiling water and
simmering them for ten minutes before roasting. The carrot
will absorb some of the unpleasant taste. An onion will have
somewhat the same effect, but unless a stuffing with onions is
used, the carrot is to be preferred. When there is an objection
to parboiling (as when the ducks are young) rub them lightly
with an onion cut in two and put three or four uncooked cran-
berries in each before cooking.
ROAST WILD DUCK
Clean, wiping inside and outside with a damp towel. Tuck
back the wings, and truss. Dust with salt, pepper and flour.
If not fat, cover the breast with two thin slices of salt pork.
Place duck in a baking-pan, and add one cup of water, and
two tablespoons of fat. Bake in a very hot oven (500 F.)
from fifteen to thirty minutes, according to rareness desired,
basting frequently. Reduce the heat after fifteen minutes.
Serve with slices of lemon or orange and a brown gravy or
with olive sauce. Currant jelly may also be served. Wild
ducks are served rare and are seldom stuffed when roasted.
An old saying is that a young wild duck to be well cooked
should only fly through a very hot oven.
CANVASBACK DUCK, DELMONICO STYLE
This bird is in season from the last of November until March.
As it feeds mainly on wild celery, it requires no spices in cook-
ing. Its flavor is best preserved by roasting quickly in a very
POULTRY AND GAME 297
hot oven (500 F.) so that it will be brown on the outside
and underdone on the inside. Dress it in the usual way and
wipe with a wet towel. Truss its head under the wing, place in
a dripping-pan and roast one-half hour, or twenty minutes if
liked underdone, basting often. Reduce the heat after fifteen
minutes. Season with salt and pepper and pour over it the
gravy in the baking-dish.
MALLARD WILD DUCK
These ducks, in season during the Fall and Winter, are very
dry when roasted. They are good if stuffed with bread stuffing-,
then well sewed up, tied in shape and placed in a large kettle
with a couple of slices of onion, a little thyme, and a small
quantity of water and cooked slowly for one hour. Turn the
bird frequently during the cooking; replenish the water if
necessary, but use only enough to keep the ducks from burn-
ing. Make a gravy from the juices in the kettle by adding one
cup of water and thickening with flour. Pour this gravy over
the ducks when served. Dressed in this way all parts are
equally good.
Venison
Venison is prepared and cooked in the same way as mutton.
The roasting pieces are the saddle and the leg. It should be
served underdone, allowing ten to twelve minutes to the pound,
for cooking, and served with tart jelly and green salad.
ROAST LEG OF VENISON
Leg of venison % CU P f at
Fat salt pork Flour
Salt and pepper
Wipe carefully, and draw off the dry skin. Lard the lean
side of the leg with strips of the pork, then soften the fat, rub
it over the meat, and dredge with salt, pepper and flour. Lay
the leg on the rack in a baking-pan, sprinkle the bottom of the
pan with flour, place it in a very hot oven (500 F.) and
watch carefully until the flour in the pan is browned, which
should be in five minutes. Add boiling water to cover the bot-
tom of the pan Baste the venison well every fifteen minutes,
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until the meat is done, renewing the water in the pan as often
as necessary. Reduce the heat after fifteen minutes. If a double
roasting-pan is used, basting is not necessary.
Most tastes require at least an hour and three-quarters for
cooking a ten-pound roast; but if the meat is liked very rare,
allow only an hour and a quarter. Serve with a gravy made
from the juices in the bottom of the pan. Always serve a tart
jelly like currant or wild grape or plum jelly with venison.
BROILED VENISON STEAK
Venison steak Currant jelly
Salt and paprika Possibly salad oil and
Butter lemon-juice
This requires about three minutes more time for broiling
than beefsteak. If strong, marinate in salad oil and lemon-
juice for two hours before cooking. Drain without wiping,
and broil over clear, hot coals, turning often to avoid scorch-
ing. Serve on a very hot platter, sprinkle with salt and paprika
and spread both sides with a mixture of butter and currant
jelly, allowing half as much jelly as butter.
FRIED VENISON STEAK
Venison steak Rolled crackers
Salt and pepper 1/2 cup fat
Flour 1 tablespoon currant jelly
Rub the steak with a mixture of salt and pepper, dip in wheat
flour or cracker meal and cook a rich brown on both sides in
one-half cup of hot fat. Place on a dish and cover to keep
warm. Dredge two teaspoons of flour into the fat in the pan
and stir until brown (but not burned), add a cup of boiling
water with one tablespoon of currant jelly dissolved in it, stir
a few minutes, strain the gravy, pour it over the meat and
serve.
Rabbits, Hares and Squirrels
Choose rabbits with soft ears and paws stiffness is a sign of
age. Also, be sure that they are fresh and free from any un-
pleasant odor. Neither hares nor rabbits should be drawn be-
fore hanging, as they may become musty. In Winter, select a
dry place for hanging, and they may remain for some time.
POULTRY AND GAME 299
Dressing and Trussing
To skin and dress a rabbit, hare or squirrel, cut off the fore
feet at the first joint, cut the skin around the first joint of the
hind leg, loosen it and then with a sharp knife slit the skin on
the under side of the leg at the tail. Loosen the skin and turn
it back until it is removed from the hind legs. Tie the hind
legs together and hang the rabbit to a hook by this fastening.
Draw the skin over the head, slipping out the fore legs when
they are reached. Cut off the head and thus remove the entire
skin. Wipe with a damp cloth. Remove the entrails, saving
heart and liver, and wipe carefully inside. If it requires wash-
ing inside, use water acidified with vinegar.
Before cooking, soak in tepid water for a time. If blood has
settled in any part, cut with the point of a knife where it is
black and soak in warm water; this will draw out the blood.
Skewer firmly between the shoulders, draw the legs close
to the body and fasten with skewers.
ROAST HARE OR RABBIT
Hare or rabbit Salt and pepper
Forcemeat or stuffing Beef -drippings or other fat
Wipe the hare or rabbit dry, fill it with good forcemeat or
stuffing, sew up and firmly truss it. Season well with salt and
pepper and roast. Baste well with beef-drippings, butter
or other fat. A thin piece of beef-suet skin may be tied over
the back for the first three-quarters of an hour and then re-
moved. One and three-quarters hours is the full time for roast-
ing a medium-sized hare at 500 F. for the first fifteen minutes
and 350 F. for the rest of the time. Serve with brown gravy
and currant jelly.
BROILED HARE OR RABBIT
Hare or rabbit Butter
Salt and pepper
Skin and clean the rabbit or hare, wipe dry, split down the
back, and pound flat; then wrap in oiled paper. Any tough
white paper may be oiled. Place on a greased gridiron and
broil over a clear, brisk fire, turning often. Remove the paper
300
/^xv^vy
and serve on a hot platter, seasoned with plenty of salt, pepper
and butter, turning over and over so it will take up the fat.
The oiled paper is not essential but results in a juicier product.
FRIED HARE OR RABBIT
Hare or rabbit Flour
Egg Milk or cream
Bread-crumbs Salt and pepper
Dress as directed and put into boiling water. Boil ten min-
utes and drain. When cold, cut into joints, dip into beaten
egg, then in bread-crumbs and season with salt and pepper.
Saute in any good fat over a moderate fire. Thicken the gravy
with the flour and pour in milk or cream, boil up once and
pour over the rabbit. Garnish with sliced lemon.
HARE OR RABBIT SALMI
1 hare or rabbit 2 cups water
1 slice onion 1 teaspoon salt
1 stalk celery 1 tablespoon "Worcestershire
1 bay- leaf sauce
2 tablespoons oil 1 tablespoon capers
2 tablespoons fat 12 stoned olives
2 tablespoons flour Chopped parsley
Clean and dress as directed and place in a baking-pan. Add
onion, celery cut fine, and bay-leaf, brush with oil, then bake at
450 F. for thirty minutes. Lift the meat from the pan, add
the fat and the flour and stir until a rich brown. Add hot
water, stir well, and when smooth, add salt, Worcestershire
sauce, capers and olives. Lay the meat again in the pan, cover
closely and bake at 350 F. for thirty minutes. Dish the game,
strain the sauce over the meat, arrange the olives as a garnish,
sprinkle the whole with finely chopped parsley and serve.
HARE OR RABBIT PIE
Dress as directed and divide into pieces suitable for serving,
cutting the back into three parts. Immerse in salted water for
one-half hour, wipe dry, and then rub with lemon- juice, salt
and pepper. If the rabbit is very plump, gash the thickest part
several times, allowing the seasoning to penetrate. Follow di-
rections given for game pie.
POULTRY AND GAME 301
HARE OR RABBIT EN CASSEROLE
Hare or rabbit 1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons fat % teaspoon pepper
4 tablespoons flour Garlic, if liked
Rub the frying-pan with garlic, if it is not objectionable.
Dress and cut up the rabbit and cook in the fat in a frying-
pan until brown. Remove the meat from the pan, stir the
flour into the fat, add two cups hot water, salt and pepper, and
let it come to a boil, stirring it constantly. Place the meat in
a baking-dish, pour the gravy over it, cover closely and bake in
the oven or fireless cooker (350 F.) until tender.
If the garlic is not used, a teaspoon of currant jelly may be
added to the gravy before serving.
ROAST SQUIRRELS
Squirrels Pepper and salt
Salad oil Onion-juice
Lemon-juice or tarragon Oil
vinegar Brown stock
1 cup bread-crumbs Worcestershire sauce
Cream Paprika
1 cup button mushrooms
Clean the squirrels thoroughly, wash in several waters and
cover with salad oil mixed with lemon-juice or tarragon vine-
gar. Let stand for an hour on a platter. Soak a cup of bread-
crumbs in just enough cream to moisten them, add a cup of but-
ton mushrooms cut in dice, pepper, salt and onion-juice. Stuff
each squirrel with this mixture, sew and truss as you would a
fowl. Rub with oil, place in a dripping-dish, and partly cover
with brown stock diluted with a cup of boiling water. When
the squirrels are well roasted, make a gravy out of the liquor
in the pan, by adding a teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce, and
paprika, salt and lemon-juice to taste.
302
BRUNSWICK STEW
2 squirrels 6 potatoes
1 tablespoon salt 1 teaspoon pepper
1 minced onion 2 teaspoons sugar
1 pint Lima beans 1 quart sliced tomatoes
6 ears corn i/ 2 l pound butter
l /2 pound salt pork
This dish is named for a county in Virginia and is a favorite
dish in that section of the country. It is served in soup-plates.
Cut the squirrels in pieces, as for fricassee. Add the salt to
four quarts of water and when boiling add the onion, beans,
corn, pork, potato, pepper and the squirrels. Cover closely and
simmer for two hours, then add the sugar and tomato, and sim-
mer one hour more. Ten minutes before removing the stew
from the fire, add the butter, cut into pieces the size of a wal-
nut and rolled in flour. Boil up, adding salt and pepper if
needed,, and turn into a tureen.
OPOSSUM ROAST
Opossum is very fat with a peculiarly flavored meat. To
dress, immerse in very hot water (not boiling) for 1 minute*
Remove and use a dull knife to scrape off hair so that skin is
not cut. Slit from bottom of throat to hind legs and remove
entrails. Remove head and tail if desired. Wash thoroughly
inside and out with hot water. Cover with cold water to which
has been added 1 cup salt. Allow to stand overnight; in the
morning drain off the salted water and rinse with clear, boil-
ing water.
Make stuffing as follows: Brown 1 large, fine-chopped onion
with 1 tablespoon butter. Add chopped opossum liver and cook
until tender. Add 1 cup bread crumbs, a little chopped red
pepper, a hard-cooked egg, finely chopped, dash Worcestershire
sauce, salt and water to moisten. Stuff opossum with mixture,
fastening the opening with skewers or by sewing. With 2 table-
spoons water roast in moderate oven (350 F.) until meat is
tender and richly browned. Baste constantly with the opossum's
own fat. Remove skewers or stitches, serve on heated platter.
Skim fat from gravy and serve with baked yams or sweet
potatoes.
STUFFINGS FOR FISH, MEAT,
POULTRY AND GAME
O TUFFING does not necessarily have to be baked in the fowl
*^ or meat. If the bird is small or if there is some stuffing left
over, it may be baked or steamed in a well-greased ring mold,
loaf pan or individual molds. Fill center of ring with vegetables.
Croquettes of stuffing, made by the usual method, are served in
a circle around the bird.
BREAD STUFFING
No. 1.
iy 2 cups bread-crumbs y 4 teaspoon pepper
1/4 cup butter or other fat 1 egg
1 teaspoon salt
Moisten the bread-crumbs with the egg slightly beaten and
the melted fat. Season and mix well. This makes a rich, moist
dressing.
No. 2.
2 to 3 tablespoons melted fat 1 to 2 tablespoons milk or
1 tablespoon chopped onion stock
1 cup dry bread-crumbs l /z teaspoon each sage, chopped
1 teaspoon salt celery, parsley
l /4 teaspoon pepper
Melt the fat in the frying-pan; add the onion, and saute
until tender. Add the bread-crumbs and seasonings and mix
well. Then add the milk or stock. This makes a loose, light
stuffing much preferred by many to the soft moist or compact
type. It can be varied by leaving out the onion or the sage,
by adding chopped celery or by adding two tablespoons of
seeded raisins.
303
304
wx>s
No. 3.
l / 2 cup milk Y 4 teaspoon pepper
2 cups grated bread-crumbs % teaspoon thyme
l l /2 tablespoons melted fat l /2 teaspoon powdered sage
1 egg l /2 teaspoon chopped onion
l /2 teaspoon salt % teaspoon summer savory
Pour the milk on the crumbs and let stand about one hour,
then add the seasonings, the fat, and the egg slightly beaten.
CRACKER CRUMB STUFFING
1 cup cracker-crumbs % teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons butter or other % teaspoon salt
fat % teaspoon poultry seasoning
l /4 cup boiling water
Melt the fat and mix with the crumbs. Add the water, and
then the seasonings. When this stuffing is used, a greater allow-
ance than usual must be made for swelling.
POTATO STUFFING
2 cups hot mashed potato 1 teaspoon sage
1 cup bread-crumbs 4 tablespoons melted butter or
l /2 teaspoon pepper other fat
1/2 tablespoon salt 2 tablespoons onion-juice
Mix the ingredients in the order given.
CELERY STUFFING
2 cups chopped celery 1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons fat l /2 teaspoon pepper
2 cups stale bread-crumbs
Chop the celery fine. Melt the fat, add the crumbs and mix
well. Add the celery, salt and pepper.
OYSTER STUFFING
2 cups oysters 2 cups dry bread-crumbs
1 teaspoon salt *4 CU P ^ at
}4 teaspoon pepper
Mix the oysters well with the bread-crumbs and seasoning,
and add the melted fat.
STUFFINGS FOR FISH AND MEAT 305
PINEAPPLE-NUT STUFFING
4 cups stale bread, l/> inch 1 teaspoon paprika
cubes 1 pimiento
% cup celery, finely chopped Dash cayenne
% cup pineapple, small iy 2 teaspoons salt
pieces % CU P butter
y 2 cup walnuts, chopped fine 2 eggs
Combine bread, celery, walnuts, pineapple, pimiento, and
seasoning. Melt butter, remove from heat, stir in unbeaten
eggs, add to bread mixture. Toss lightly. Use as stuffing for
turkey, chicken, duck, veal roll, lamb chops or pork chops.
Substitute crisp bacon cut in small pieces for nuts, reduce salt
one-third and add grated onion, or substitute red or green bell
pepper for pimiento.
SAUSAGE STUFFING
l /2 pound sausage-meat 1 tablespoon onion-juice
2 cups dried bread-crumbs 1 tablespoon minced parsley
Salt and pepper
Mix sausage and crumbs, then add seasonings.
MUSHROOM STUFFING
3 cups stale bread-crumbs 2 teaspoons salt
6 tablespoons butter or other l /z teaspoon powdered thyme
fat 1 teaspoon minced parsley
l /2 cup chopped mushrooms
Mix ingredients in the order given.
RICE STUFFING
1 cup milk 4 cups cold boiled rice
1 cup soft bread-crumbs l /z pound sausage
1 chopped onion Sage
1 tablespoon butter or other Parsley
fat Sweet herbs
Salt and pepper
Pour the milk over the crumbs. Cook the onion in the fat
until brown, then add the rice, the soaked crumbs, the sausage,
and seasonings to taste.
306
^/wv/\^rvirv/v>\/
CHESTNUT STUFFING
No. 1.
1 quart chestnuts 1 tablespoon salt
3 tablespoons butter l /2 teaspoon pepper
Shell and blanch chestnuts and boil one-half hour in water
enough to cover them, then drain. Do not chop or mash them.
Add to them the butter, salt and pepper.
No. 2.
1 quart chestnuts 2 tablespoons cream
l /4 cup bread-crumbs Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons butter or other Onion-juice, if desired
fat
Shell and blanch the chestnuts and cook in boiling water
until tender. While they are still hot, rub them through a
coarse sieve or colander. Add other ingredients in order given.
RAISIN-NUT STUFFING
2 cups stale bread crumbs y 2 CU P broken walnut meats
% cup butter, melted 1 teaspoon salt
y 2 cup chopped seeded % teaspoon pepper
raisins l/> teaspoon sage
Mix ingredients together lightly with fork. Yield: 2 l /2 cups
stuffing.
WILD RICE AND MUSHROOM STUFFING
Y 3 cup chopped onion y 4 pound sausage meat
1/4 cup butter 3 cups boiled wild rice
1 cup chopped mushrooms 1 teaspoon salt
Saute onion in 2 tablespoons butter 5 minutes, or until lightly
browned, and remove from pan; add remaining 2 tablespoons
butter and mushrooms, and cook 5 minutes, then remove from
pan. Fry sausage meat until lightly browned, stirring constantly;
remove from heat and stir in onion and mushrooms; add wild
rice and salt, mixing lightly. This makes a light goose stuffing.
Yields 5 cups stuffing or enough for 1 (10 Ib.) goose.
SAUCES FOR FISH, MEAT,
POULTRY, GAME, AND
VEGETABLES
O AUCES add variety to the diet, make foods more attractive
^ to the eye and to the palate, and thus stimulate appetite,
aid digestion and improve nutrition.
WHITE AND BROWN SAUCES
Methods of combining flour or corn-starch with liquids are
given in the front of the book. (See Index.) The simplest
method of thickening sauces is by means of a roux. Equal parts
of fat and flour make the best roux. If much more fat than
flour is used, the fat rises to the top of the mixture. If less fat
than flour is used, the paste may burn. Therefore, if more fat
than flour is required in the sauce, it should be beaten in in small
pieces after the liquid is added and just before the sauce is
served; if less fat than flour is required, it is better not to make
it into a roux but to use another method of thickening the
sauce.
All sauces thickened with corn-starch should be cooked for at
least fifteen minutes. Standing over hot water in a double
boiler for an hour or longer improves the flavor. Sauces
thickened with flour are better if cooked for at least five minutes
after thickening. The seasonings should be added just before
the sauce is served.
To Make a Roux
FOR A WHITE SAUCE The American method of making a
roux for white sauce is to melt the fat, add the flour and cook
only until the, mixture bubbles before adding the liquid. This
saves time, but at the expense of the flavor of the sauce. The
French method is to melt the fat, add the flour and cook, with
constant stirring, for five minutes, before, adding any liquid.
This removes the raw taste of the flour.
FOR A BROWN SAUCE Melt the fat and allow it to brown
307
308
vX-v-^_x->
before adding flour, then stir in the flour and stir constantly,
until the flour is brown. The color depends on this browning,
but care must be taken not to scorch This long preliminary
cooking is the secret of a successful brown sauce. Tomato juice
or sauce may be used as liquid.
STANDARD RECIPE FOR WHITE SAUCE
THIN WHITE SAUCE.
For cream soups
1 tablespoon butter or other 1 cup milk
fat y 4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon flour y% teaspoon pepper
MEDIUM WHITE SAUCE.
For gravies, sauces, creamed and scalloped dishes
2 tablespoons butter or other 1 cup milk
fat 1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons flour ]/ s teaspoon pepper
THICK WHITE SAUCE.
For cutlets, croquettes and souffles
4 tablespoons butter or other 1 cup milk
fat y^ teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons flour y & teaspoon pepper
Use method 1 or 2 for making these sauces.
METHOD 1 Melt butter, blend in flour until smooth. Add
milk gradually, stirring constantly until boiling point is reached.
Reduce heat and cook for 3 minutes longer; add seasonings and
blend. Place over hot water to keep hot and cover tightly to
prevent film from forming.
METHOD 2 Heat milk. Blend butter or other fat and flour
together and add to hot milk, stirring constantly until mixture
thickens. Cook for 3 minutes longer, add seasonings and blend.
METHOD 3 When less butter than flour is used, heat 3 / 4 of
the milk; mix remaining milk with flour to make a smooth
paste; stir into hot milk, heat to boiling and cook until thickened,
stirring constantly. Add butter or other fat and seasonings and
cook for 3 minutes.
SAUCES FOR FISH, MEAT AND VEGETABLES 309
VARIATIONS OF WHITE SAUCE
Use 1 cup medium white sauce as the basis for each sauce.
CAPER SAUCE Add 2 to 4 tablespoons chopped capers.
CELERY SAUCE Add l /2 cup chopped cooked celery.
CHEESE SAUCE Add 2 to 4 ounces grated cheese. Set over
hot water and stir until the cheese is blended with sauce. Season
to taste with mustard and paprika.
CREAM GRAVY Use 2 tablespoons meat drippings for butter
in white sauce recipe.
CREAM SAUCE Use cream instead of milk in white sauce.
EGG SAUCE, No. 1 Add 1 hard-cooked egg, chopped.
No. 2 Beat an uncooked egg, dilute with 1 tablespoon of
hot thin white sauce, then beat this into the remainder of a cup
of sauce. If the egg white is beaten separately, the sauce will be
foamy.
LOBSTER SAUCE Add */> cup finely flaked cooked lobster.
MOCK HOLLANDAISE SAUCE Pour sauce over 2 slightly
beaten egg yolks, 2 tablespoons each of butter and lemon juice,
beat thoroughly and serve immediately.
MUSHROOM SAUCE Add l /z to % cup chopped or sliced
cooked mushrooms to sauce.
OLIVE SAUCE Add % CU P chopped ripe or stuffed olives.
OYSTER SAUCE Heat 1 pint small oysters in their own
liquor to boiling point. Remove from heat after they have
cooked l /2 minute and combine with sauce. Season to taste.
PARSLEY SAUCE Add 2 to 4 tablespoons chopped parsley.
PIMIENTO SAUCE Add 2 tablespoons minced onion and
6 tablespoons minced pimiento. Onion may be browned in fat
when making white sauce, if desired.
SHRIMP SAUCE Add l /z cup chopped cooked shrimp.
SOUBISE SAUCE Rub 4 boiled onions and 2 sprigs parsley
through a coarse sieve. Combine with sauce.
TOMATO CREAM SAUCE Cook 1 cup fresh or canned toma-
toes, 1 stalk celery, 1 slice onion, l / 2 teaspoon salt and a few
grains cayenne together for 20 minutes. Rub through a sieve.
Add gradually, stirring constantly, to white sauce.
VELOUTE SAUCE Use 1 cup well-seasoned white stock for
milk in thin or medium white sauce.
YELLOW SAUCE Add hot sauce to 1 or 2 slightly beaten egg
yolks and beat thoroughly.
3 io
^^-^ fc ^w^^^^->^^x^ 11 ^^^^x-v^w^
BECHAMEL SAUCE
No. 1.
Use one-half cup of meat stock instead of half of the milk
in medium or thin white sauce. If an acid flavor is desired, add
one teaspoon of lemon juice to each cup of sauce.
No. 2.
1 small onion y 4 cup chopped lean raw ham
2 tablespoons fat 4 tablespoons flour
1 pint milk
Slice the onion, place the fat in a saucepan and slightly brown
the onion and ham in it. Add the flour and, when well mixed,
the milk. Stir until it boils, then cook over hot water for ten
minutes or longer. Add seasonings, strain and use.
CHAUD-FROID SAUCE
WHITE Soak one tablespoon gelatin in cold water and add
to one cup of hot veloute sauce. Mix well; strain, if necessary;
let cool and use to coat cold meats.
BROWN Use a brown roux and brown stock in making the
veloute.
YELLOW Add the beaten yolks of two eggs to white chaud-
froid sauce just before removing from the fire.
PINEAPPLE-ORANGE SAUCE
6 tablespoons sugar 1 cup orange juice
y 2 tablespoon cornstarch Grated rind 1 orange
1 cup water i/3 cup crushed pineapple
Combine ingredients in the order listed. Heat to boiling and
cook for 3 minutes. Serve with ham or tongue.
Brown sugar may be used in place of granulated.
Add Y 4 cup raisins and cook until they puff.
POULETTE SAUCE
1 cup veloute sauce 2 egg yolks
1 cup cream
Slowly add, with constant stirring, the veloute to the egg
yolks, beat in the cream and reheat over hot water. Beat well
SAUCES FOR FISH, MEAT AND VEGETABLES 311
and serve at once. It is improved by adding, a little at a time,
one tablespoon butter, the juice of half a lemon, a tablespoon
of chopped parsley and a dash of nutmeg.
,
BUTTER SAUCE A LA CREOLE
1 cup cold water l /2 tablespoon flour
4 l /2 tablespoons butter Juice of 1 lemon
Make a sauce of one-half cup cold water, one-half tablespoon
butter and the flour. When the mixture boils, stir in quickly
four tablespoons butter and add, by degrees, another one-half
cup of cold water to keep the mixture from boiling. Stir in
the juice of a lemon and strain. It must be served at once and
hot. It becomes oily if kept long. One tablespoon of chopped
parsley may be added.
DRAWN BUTTER SAUCE
% cup butter 1 pint boiling water
4 tablespoons flour J4 teaspoon salt
Make a roux of four tablespoons of the butter and all of the
flour. Gradually add the boiling water, stirring constantly
over hot water, until the sauce comes to the boiling-point.
Simmer until it is thick and smooth. When ready to serve, add
salt and the remaining butter in small bits, beating constantly.
MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE
2 cups drawn-butter sauce 2 egg-yolks
1 tablespoon lemon-juice Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
Add the lemon-juice and chopped parsley to the drawn-but-
ter sauce. Let it cool slightly, add the beaten yolks and season
with salt and pepper. Do not permit the sauce to boil after
the addition of the egg-yolk.
CAPER SAUCE
Follow the recipe for maitre d'hotel sauce, omitting the
parsley and adding three tablespoons capers. This is excellent
with fish.
(For another recipe for caper sauce, see Variations of White Sauce, page 309.)
IMITATION CAPER SAUCE
y 2 cup chopped pickles 2 cups drawn butter sauce
To the drawn butter sauce add pickles, cut into tiny cubes
of a uniform size and well drained. Boil for one minute. Serve
with fish or chops.
HOLLAND AISE SAUCE
2 egg yolks y 4 teaspoon salt
y 2 cup butter Dash cayenne
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Place egg yolks with % of the butter in top of a double boiler.
Keep water in bottom of boiler hot but not boiling. Stir eggs
and butter constantly; when butter melts add another portion
and as it melts and the mixture begins to thicken add remaining
butter. Keep stirring all the time. As soon as mixture is thick,
remove from heat and add seasonings. The sauce is delicious
served over vegetables. Should sauce separate, beat in 2 table-
spoons boiling water, drop by drop. Makes 1 cup sauce.
Increase lemon juice to 1 l /z tablespoons.
WITH WATER Cream butter, add egg yolks 1 at a time,
blending each one in thoroughly. Add remaining ingredients
and beat. Just before serving add J/z cup boiling water grad-
ually, beating constantly. Cook over hot water, stirring con-
stantly until thickened. Serve at once.
WITH ANCHOVY Season sauce with anchovy paste.
WITH SHERRY Just before serving sauce, add 2 tablespoons
sherry, drop by drop, beating constantly.
BEARNAISE SAUCE
4 tablespoons fat 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar
Yolks 4 eggs 1 teaspoon onion juice
1/2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon chopped tarragon
y 2 teaspoon pepper 1 teaspoon chopped parsley
Stir the fat until perfectly soft and creamy. Place the egg
yolks and the salt and pepper in the top of a double boiler and
beat light with an egg beater, then add one-third of the fat and
beat until smooth, add another third and beat again, and then
add the remainder and beat until all is perfectly smooth. Add
the vinegar and onion juice and beat again. Place over boiling
SAUCES FOR FISH, MEAT AND VEGETABLES 313
water and cook for three minutes, beating constantly with the
egg-beater. Remove from the fire, put in the chopped parsley
and tarragon and use immediately.
VICTOR HUGO SAUCE
l /2 teaspoon fine chopped 1 teaspoon lemon-juice
shallot 1 teaspoon meat extract or
1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar one meat cube
J/3 cup butter, washed (p. 591) 1 tablespoon grated horse-
Yolks of two eggs radish
Cook the shallot in the vinegar for five minutes. Wash the
butter and divide, it into thirds. Add one of the thirds to the
vinegar, with the egg-yolks, lemon-juice and meat extract.
Cook over hot water, stirring constantly. As soon as the butter
is melted, add the second piece, and then the third piece.
When the sauce thickens, add the grated horseradish.
GIBLET GRAVY
Giblets and neck of fowl 2 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons chicken fat Salt and pepper
Place the giblets (liver, heart and gizzard) and the neck in
a saucepan and cover them with cold water. Simmer slowly
and when they are tender remove the flesh from the neck and
chop it fine with the giblets. Save the stock in which the giblets
and neck were cooked. Heat the fat in a small saucepan on
top of the stove and when it is hot stir in the flour. Cook two
minutes, then add one cup of the stock pouring it in gradually
so that it will not thin the gravy too much. If the gravy seems
too thick, add a little, hot water. Last, put in the chopped
giblets and season to taste with salt and pepper.
BREAD SAUCE
1 cup stale bread-crumbs 1 onion
2 cups milk 3 tablespoons butter
Salt Pepper
This sauce is generally served with small birds. It may be
served with roast chicken or duck. The crumbs must be entirely
white. Sift them through a coarse sieve, place the ones that
pass through in the milk, add the onion and place in a stew-
pan on the fire to cook. Cook for twelve minutes, remove the
onion and add one tablespoon of butter with salt and pepper
to taste.
BROWNED CRUMBS Place the remaining butter on the fire
in a frying-pan, add the coarse bread-crumbs and fry them
until brown, being careful to have the fat very hot before
putting in the crumbs. Stir vigorously for two or three min-
utes, but do not allow the crumbs to burn. Serve the sauce in
a gravy-dish and sprinkle with the browned crumbs.
No . lm BROWN SAUCE
1 tablespoon chopped onion 2 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons fat 1 cup brown meat stock
Pepper Salt
Brown the onion and fat. Add the flour and make a brown
roux (See Index). Pour in the brown stock and cook with
constant stirring until the sauce thickens. Strain to remove
the particles of onion, and season with pepper and salt. If the
roux was not sufficiently brown to make the? sauce a desirable
color, a few drops of vegetable flavoring or of Worcestershire
sauce may be added. If a more highly flavored sauce is desired,
add a slice of carrot, a sprig of parsley, a little thyme and a few
peppercorns to the onion, and brown in the fat.
No. 2 In making brown sauce for a roast, the simplest way
is to use the fat and juice of the roast. Add two tablespoons
of flour to two tablespoons of the hot drippings, stir and cook
well. Then add one cup of boiling water, stir well to avoid
lumps, and season to taste with salt and pepper. If liked, add
a tablespoon or two of catchup or a flavoring of Worcester-
shire or other sauce.
MADE GRAVY
2 small onions Butter or other fat
1 carrot Flour
Small piece of lean beef, size Pepper
of egg, or 1 beef cube or Salt
1 teaspoon beef extract Catchup
Cut up onions and carrot, place them with the lean beef or
extract in a stew-pan with the fat and brown all together. Add
enough water to cover the mixture and stir slowly until the
SAUCES FOR FISH, MEAT AND VEGETABLES 315
vegetables are cooked. Strain, thicken with flour, using two
tablespoons to each cup of liquid, and add pepper, salt and
catchup. Color brown with caramel or vegetable flavoring if
necessary.
CURRANT JELLY SAUCE
1 onion 1 stalk celery
1 tablespoon fat 1 bay-leaf
1 tablespoon flour 2 tablespoons vinegar
l /2 cup currant jelly 2 cups stock
Slice the onion and cook in the fat till it begins to color,
thepi add the flour and herbs and stir until brown. Add the
vinegar and the stock and simmer twenty minutes. Strain,
skim off all the fat, put in the jelly and stir until it is melted.
This sauce is used with game.
MUSHROOM SAUCE
4 tablespoons fat 1 cup mushrooms, fresh or
4 tablespoons flour canned
2 cups stock Salt and pepper
Make a brown sauce of the fat, flour and stock. Add one
cup mushrooms and cook until hot. If mushrooms are over-
cooked they will become tough. Three or four minutes is
sufficient for those that have been canned and five or six min-
utes for fresh onejS.
This sauce is used with any kind of roasted, broiled or braised
meat, particularly with beef.
ONION SAUCE
l /z cup minced onion 1 1 / 2 cups beef stock
3 tablespoons fat 1 tablespoon minced parsley
3 tablespoons flour
Cook the onion with the fat until slightly browned. Stir in
the flour, then add the stock and parsley, stirring constantly.
Serve with beef.
SAUCE PIQUANTE
2 tablespoons butter or other 2 cloves
fat 1 clove garlic
2 onions 2 tablespoons flour
2 carrots 1 cup beef or veal stock
2 shallots l / 2 cup vinegar
Thyme Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon minced parsley
Melt fat, slice into it onions, carrots and shallots. Add a little
thyme, minced parsley, cloves and clove of garlic. Let this
mixture cook until the carrot is soft, then add flour. Let it
cook for five minutes more, and add beef or veal stock and
vinegar, skim, and strain through a sieve. Add salt and pepper
when boiling.
SAUCE ROBERT
6 onions 1 tablespoon mushroom
2 tablespoons fat catchup
2 tablespoons flour Salt and pepper
1 cup stock Mustard
1 tablespoon lemon-juice
Slice onions and saute them in the fat in a small saucepan
until they are well browned; then add the flour, mushroom
catchup, stock, salt, pepper and mustard to taste and the lemon-
juice. This sauce may be served with both cold and hot meats.
CURRY SAUCE
1 tablespoon fat 1 pint stock, milk or water
2 teaspoons chopped onion 1 tablespoon flour
1 teaspoon curry-powder Salt and pepper
This sauce is used as a basis for many dishes. Cold meat or
fish, oysters, hard-cooked eggs, canned or left over salmon, lob-
ster, and shrimps, all may be heate,d in this sauce and a great
variety of dishes is thus made possible. Have the fat hot and
saute in it the chopped onion until a delicate brown, then add
the curry-powder and stock or water. Simmer for ten minutes
and then stir in the flour that has been rubbed smooth in a
tablespoon of cold water. Allow it to boil for a minute or two,
stirring constantly. Strain and it is ready for use.
SAUCES FOR FISH, MEAT AND VEGETABLES 317
SAUCE SUPREME
2 tablespoons fat 2 tablespoons lemon-juice
2 tablespoons flour 2 teaspoons chopped parsley
1 cup chicken stock
Place the fat in a frying-pan, over the fire, and when it is
hot, add the flour. Stir well* When it is turning brown, add
the chicken stock and boil for several minutes, stirring con-
stantly. Then add the lemon- juice and the parsley. After
the sauce has boiled up once, it is ready to serve.
OLIVE SAUCE
2 dozen olives 2 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons salad oil 1 pint stock
1 slice onion Salt and pepper
1 lemon
Place the olives in an earthenware bowl, cover with hot water
and let them remain for half an hour to draw out the brine.
Place the oil in a frying-pan, and add the onion; when this
commences to color, add the flour. Stir until smooth. After
it has cooked for two minutes, add the stock, and regulate the
heat so that the sauce will simmer gently. Pare the olives from
the stones, round and round as though paring an apple, leaving
the pulp in a single strip. If this is done carefully, the olives
will coil back into shape. Place them in the sauce, add the
seasoning and the juice of the lemon and simmer for twenty
minutes. Skim carefully and serve.
SPANISH SAUCE
1 tablespoon minced lean raw 2 tablespoons flour
ham 1/2 cup stock
1 tablespoon chopped celery' l / 2 cup tomato- juice
1 tablespoon chopped carrot l /2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon chopped onion l /% teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons fat
Melt the fat. Add the ham and vegetables and cook until
they are brown. Make a sauce of this mixture and the flour,
salt, pepper and liquid.
CHATEAUBRIAND SAUCE
3 tablespoons fat Pepper
1 tablespoon lemon- juice 1 teaspoon minced paisley
1 teaspoon salt 2 cups Spanish sauce
Whip together the fat, lemon- juice, salt, a pinch of pepper
and minced parsley. Add the Spanish sauce, reheat, stir for
a moment and serve.
TOMATO SAUCE
1 quart fresh or canned 3 tablespoons fat
tomatoes 3 tablespoons flour
1 slice onion Salt and pepper
8 cloves
Set thei tomatoes, onion and cloves on the fire and cook for
twenty minutes. Brown the fat in the frying-pan, add the
flour, and cook until smooth and brown, stirring constantly.
Add the tomatoes, cook for three minutes, season with salt and
pepper and pass through a strainer fine enough to hold back
the seeds. This makes a very thin sauce. Use more flour if
you prefer a thick sauce.
TOMATO AND MUSHROOM SAUCE
2 slices bacon or small quan- 2 cloves
tity uncooked ham l /2 teaspoon peppercorns
1 slice onion Few gratings nutmeg
6 slices carrot ^ No. 2 can tomatoes
Bay-leaf 5 tablespoons flour
2 sprigs thyme 1 1 /2 cups brown stock
Sprig parsley Salt and pepper
1/2 No. 1 can mushrooms
Chop the bacon or ham, and cook with onion and carrot
for five minutes. Add bay-leaf, thyme, parsley, cloves, pepper-
corns, nutmeg, and tomatoes, and cook five minutes. Mix the
flour with five tablespoons of cold water and rub out all the
lumps; then add enough water so that the batter can be poured
in a thin stream. Add to the sauce, stirring constantly. As
the sauce thickens, dilute it with the stock. Cover, set in the
SAUCES FOR FISH, MEAT AND VEGETABLES 3 J 9
oven (300 F.) and cook one hour. Strain, add salt and
pepper to taste and the mushrooms, drained and cut in quarters.
Then cook two minutes over direct heat.
RAVIGOTE SAUCE
1 cup thin white sauce 1 tablespoon minced chervil
% cup lemon-juice 1 tablespoon minced tarragon
1 tablespoon tarragon vine- leaves
gar 1 tablespoon minced chives
1 tablespoon minced shallot 1 tablespoon butter
While sauce is hot, add other materials, except butter. Keep
hot five minutes, strain, beat in butter. Serve hot or cold.
BROWNED BUTTER
Place a piece of butter in a hot frying-pan and toss about
until it browns. Stir browned flour into it until it is smooth
and commences to boil. This is used for coloring gravies,
sauces, etc.
BROWNED FLOUR
Spread flour on a pie-tin and place on the stove or in a very
hot oven (450 -5 00 F.). When it begins to color, stir con-
stantly until it is evenly browned throughout. When cold,
cork closely in jars.
GLAZING FOR MEAT
No. 1 Boil one quart of consomme until it is reduced to one
cup. For half-glaze, reduce it to one pint.
No. 2 Simmer a small amount of jellied stock with burnt
sugar until it becomes like a sirup.
No. 3 To one cup brown stock, add one-half tablespoon
gelatin soaked in four tablespoons water. The glaze should be
melted over hot water and applied to meat, fish, game or
poultry.
320
No L CRANBERRY SAUCE
1 quart cranberries 2 cups boiling water
2 cups sugar
Boil the sugar and water together for five minutes. Remove
any scum that may have formed. Add the cranberries and
cook without stirring until they are thick and clear.
No. 2 Cook the cranberries and water together until the
skins of the berries are broken. Add the sugar and simmer
for five or ten minutes. Chill before using.
No. 3 If a strained sauce is desired, cook the cranberries
and water as in No. 2 and rub through a sieve. Return the
strained portion to the fire, add the sugar and simmer for five
or ten minutes.
SPICED CRANBERRIES
4 cups cranberries 5 allspice
5 cloves 2 sticks cinnamon
3 cups sugar 2 blades mace
Pick over and wash the berries. Place in a saucepan and
cover with cold water. Tie spices in a cheese-cloth bag and
drop in with the berries. Cook until the berries burst. Re-
move spices, add sugar, and cook until the mixture is clear.
Chill.
MOCK WILD CHERRY SAUCE
1 quart cranberries 2 l / 4 cups sugar
1 cup water 1 teaspoon almond flavoring
Add cranberries to boiling water, cover and cook until the
berries burst. Add sugar and boil a few minutes longer. Add
flavoring.
No . !. APPLE SAUCE
4 quarts sweet cider 2 quarts apples
By boiling it uncovered, reduce four quarts of new cider to
two quarts. Pare, quarter and core the apples and simmer
with the cider for four hours. Flavor with cinnamon, if de-
sired.
SAUCES FOR FISH, MEAT AND VEGETABLES 321
No. 2.
1 quart apples 1 cup sugar 1 cup water
Pare, chop and place apples in a deep pudding-dish; sprinkle
with sugar, and pour water over them. Bake in a slow oven
(2SO-350 F.) two hours or morq, until they are a rich red-
brown. Serve with goose, pork or game.
MINT SAUCE
1 tablespoon powdered sugar % cup minced mint leaves
l / 2 cup vinegar
Dissolve sugar in vinegar. Pour this over minced mint
leaves and set where it will keep warm but not hot. Allow it
to infuse for half an hour. If vinegar is very strong, dilute
with water.
CURRANT MINT SAUCE
% cup currant jelly 1 to 2 tablespoons chopped
Shavings from orange-rind mint leaves
Separate jelly into pieces, but do not beat it. Add chopped
mint leaves and orange-rind shavings. Serve around roast.
SOUTHERN BARBECUE SAUCE
^/2 cup butter or other fat 2 tablespoons chili sauce
1 sour pickle, finely chopped 4 slices lemon
2 tablespoons chopped onion 1 teaspoon brown sugar
2 tablespoons Worcestershire 1 green pepper, chopped fine
sauce 1 cup vinegar
Combine all ingredients and mix thoroughly. Place in a
saucepan and simmer until butter or other fat melts, stirring
constantly. Place in the top of a double boiler and keep warm
until ready to use on barbecued meats or as a sauce for barbecued
sandwiches. Makes 1% cups sauce.
BARBECUED MEATS, beef, lamb, veal and pork in the form
of roasts, chops or steaks are braised in this sauce. Chicken may
also be used.
3 22
CUCUMBER SAUCE
2 cucumbers Salt and cayenne
l /2 cup stock Celery essence
l /2 tablespoon vinegar
Cut peeled cucumbers into very small pieces. Simmer until
tender in a saucepan with stock, vinegar, salt, cayenne and a
little celery essence. Celery-salt may be used instead of plain
salt, if preferred. A bit of boiled onion and a little butter
may be added also, if desired. Strain through a sieve.
ANCHOVY SAUCE
l /4 cup fresh butter Cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon anchovy paste
Melt the butter and stir in the anchovy paste and the cayenne
pepper. Warm and stir thoroughly and serve with either boiled
or fried fish.
BEURRE NOIR
2 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon vinegar */> teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon lemon-juice % teaspoon pepper
Place the butter in a frying-pan and when it is browned add
the other ingredients. Boil up once and serve. This sauce is
poured over fried fish or boiled fish just before serving.
PARSLEY BUTTER
3 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
l /2 to 1 tablespoon lemon- l /2 teaspoon salt
juice l /s teaspoon pepper
Cream butter and add lemon-juice, chopped parsley, salt
and pepper. This may be used to spread on fried or boiled fish
or over potato balls. When intended for potato balls, one-half
tablespoon of lemon-juice will be enough.
LOBSTER BUTTER
I lobster coral 3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons chopped lobster Seasoning
Lobster butter is used in lobster soups and sauces to give
color and richness. Pound the coral of a lobster to a smooth
SAUCES FOR FISH, MEAT AND VEGETABLES 323
paste with two tablespoons of butter, add chopped lobster and
remaining tablespoon of butter and pound again until all is
reduced to a smooth paste, then rub through a fine sieve. If
coral is not obtainable, the small claws may be pounded with
the butter.
MUSTARD SAUCE
1 tablespoon dry mustard 1 tablespoon vinegar
1/2 teaspoon sugar 1 tablespoon melted butter
l /4 teaspoon salt l / 4 cup boiling water
Mix dry ingredients, add liquids, mix well and serve.
JELLY SAUCE
1 glass currant or grape 1 teaspoon dry mustard
jelly 1 teaspoon salt
Turn the currant or grape jelly out into a deep plate and
beat it to a foam. Then add dry mustard and salt and beat
again thoroughly.
ORANGE RAISIN SAUCE
1 cup boiling water 1 tablespoon flour
Juice and grated rind of one 1 tablespoon butter
orange l /$ cup seeded raisins
l /4 cup sugar
Mix the dry ingredients, add boiling water and cook until
clear. Add the orange- juice and rind, the raisins and the butter.
REMOULADE SAUCE
2 hard-cooked egg-yolks 7 cups oil
1 raw egg-yolk 1 teaspoon mustard
3 tablespoons tarragon vinegar l /z teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons cider vinegar 1 teaspoon parsley
Put the cooked yolks of eggs through a coarse wire sieve, and
then put them in a dish with the raw yolk and the seasoning.
Add two tablespoons of the vinegar and beat thoroughly five
minutes. Next add the oil, one teaspoon at a time, beating
the mixture two or three minutes at a time after each addition
of oil. When five teaspoons have thus been added, the rest of
324
N^^SX
the oil may be put in in larger quantities, three or four teaspoons
at a time. Whenever the sauce becomes so thick that the
beater turns hard, put in one-half tablespoon of vinegar. This
sauce may be used for meatj for salads, or for such vegetables
as asparagus, broccoli and artichokes. It may be varied by
adding capers, minced gherkins and a dash of cayenne. There
is not a great deal of difference between remoulade sauce and
mayonnaise.
TARTAR SAUCE
1 cup mayonnaise dressing 1 tablespoon chopped
1 teaspoon onion-juice cucumber pickle
1 tablespoon capers
Makq the mayonnaise rather more sour and with a little more
mustard than for salad, and mix into it the capers, pickle and
onion- juice. Set in the refrigerator until needed. It should be
quite thick when served.
L HORSERADISH SAUCE
1 teaspoon mustard Salt
3 tablespoons cream Horseradish
1 tablespoon vinegar
Mix the first four ingredients and add as much grated horse-
radish as needed to make it the desired thickness.
No. 2.
l /4 cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon vinegar
3 tablespoons grated horse- % teaspoon salt
radish Sprinkle of cayenne or pepper
Whip the cream stiff. Mix the other ingredients and beat
them gradually into the whipped cream. Serve on baked ham.
BUTTER-ORANGE FLUFF
1/4 pound butter y 2 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon grated orange rind
Cream the butter until light and fluffy. Add brown sugar
gradually, beating the mixture to a light, fluffy mass. Stir in the
grated orange rind. Use for waffles and pancakes.
SAUCES FOR FISH, MEAT AND VEGETABLES 325
VINAIGRETTE SAUCE
1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon chopped pickle
Y 4 teaspoon paprika 1 tablespoon chopped green
Few grains pepper pepper
1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar 1 teaspoon chopped parsley
2 tablespoons cider vinegar 1 teaspoon chopped chives
6 tablespoons olive oil
Mix the ingredients in the order given.
CREOLE SAUCE
2 tablespoons chopped Salt and pepper
onion 2 tomatoes or ]/ 2 cup canned
4 tablespoons minced green tomatoes
pepper 1 cup bouillon
2 tablespoons butter J4 ^P s ^ ce< i mushrooms
3 tablespoons flour
Saute onion and pepper in butter 5 minutes; add flour and
seasonings and stir until browned; add tomatoes and mushrooms
gradually and cook 2 minutes; then add bouillon and heat to
boiling. Serve with omelet, spaghetti and fish. Yield: 2 cups.
FRONTIER SAUCE
3 tablespoons flour % cup tomato juice
2 tablespoons butter % ^P liquid drained from
1/2 teaspoon salt stewed or canned mush-
1-/2 teaspoon paprika rooms
Dash of tabasco 2 tablespoons heavy cream
Stir flour into melted butter; add seasonings and tabasco,
then add tomato juice and mushroom liquor gradually and cook
5 minutes, stirring constantly until smooth and thick. Add
cream and blend. Serve on macaroni or spaghetti. Yield: 1%
cups sauce.
ENTREES AND MADE-OVER
DISHES
AN entree is a dish that is served as an independent course
between two main courses of a meal. In an informal meal,
an entree of protein food may be served as the main course.
An entree is usually a "light" dish, small in bulk, and is often
accompanied by a sauce which may or may not be an integral
part of the dish. It may be served either hot or cold. Hot
entrees are often accompanied by a hot sauce, such as Hol-
landaise or maitre d'hotel; and cold entrees by cold sauces,
vinaigrette, tartar, etc. Ordinarily the hot entree precedes
the roast and the cold entree follows it.
Entrees may be made of a great number of foods eggs in
many attractive forms; fish of all kinds; meat, such as lamb,
veal and tender cuts of fowl and beef, cooked by some method
other than roasting; macaroni and spaghetti; some fruits; and
many kinds of vegetables.
Increasingly in America today vegetables are served as
entrees. This is undoubtedly due to the fact that the eating
habits of the nation have changed, because we have a growing
knowledge of and interest in the food -values of vegetables and
fruits. For luncheon and dinner now one vegetable is often
raised to the dignity of becoming a course by itself.
Hot Entrees
CREAMED MIXTURES These are the most simple and easily
prepared of the hot entrees. Any well-seasoned creamed mix-
ture may be use,d. It must be kept hot and transferred at the
last possible moment to the container in which it is to be served.
This may be merely a slice of toast, an individual case such
as a ramekin, patty shell or timbale case, or a border formed
of bread, rice or potato.
FORCEMEATS These should have a smooth^ velvety texture.
They call for more effort in preparation than any other type of
entree. They are made of cooked or uncooked meat or fish
in finely divided form, those made of the uncooked material
being considered the more choice. Such foods as chicken and
326
ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 327
ham, shell fish and any fine white fish make typical forcemeats.
Forcemeats may be use,d in combination with other materials
or cooked alone to form cutlets and timbales. The cutlets are
cooked in shallow, chop-shaped molds and the timbales in deep,
straight sided molds.
CROQUETTES Croquettes are made of cooked and chopped
ingredients held together, usually, by means of a thick sauce.
When the mixture is cold, it is made into shapes of uniform
size, which are coated with flour or sifted crumbs, then rolled
in an egg mixture so that the egg forms a continuous film, then
rolled in crumbs again. The egg mixture is made by adding
two tablespoons of water or milk to each egg required, and beat-
ing just enough to break up the white of the egg. The cro-
quettes may be allowed to stand until dry or may be fried at
once in deep hot fat. This is a good way to use left-over cooked
foods.
Croquettes are made in the form of balls, rolls, cones, nests
or cups, cutlets or flat cakes. Whatever shape is desired, it is
usually easier to attain it by making the mixture into a ball
first, thus insuring a compact mass from which the chosen
form may be readily molded.
CUTLETS This word, as used in this chapter refers to the
form in which the food is cooked rather than to a distinct type
of food. Sometimes cutlets are made by packing forcemeat
into shallow, chop-shaped molds, but more often they are cro-
quettes, cut or shaped to look like breaded chops or cutlets.
The term may be extended to include boiled cereal, such as
rice or cornmeal, which has been packed into a shallow dish,
left until cold, and then cut into pieces, rolled in egg and crumbs
and fried or sauted.
FRITTERS These may be composed of a piece, of fruit en-
closed in a batter, then fried in deep hot fat and served with
an appropriate sauce; or chopped fruit, chopped vegetable, or
other chopped food, such as clams or lobster, stirred into the
batter and fried by spoonfuls.
TIMBALES This term is sometimes used to describe force-
meat cooked in straight-sided deep molds. More frequently
perhaps it refers to sugarless custards cooked in timbale molds.
In timbales of this type, where egg is the thickening agent,
savory seasonings are used, and the milk which ordinarily forms
an important component of custard is replaced in part or en-
tirely by meat stock or vegetable puree.
I
328
s^r
All timbales are cooked in molds of some sort; they are
cooked by oven-poaching and are not browned. They are
turned out of the molds before they are served. A circle of
buttered paper laid in the bottom of the mold before it is filled
insures perfect unmolding.
HOT SOUFFLES These are the lightest of the entrees, being
made 1 so by well-beaten egg-white folded into the seasoned
foundation mixture. This may be simply a fruit puree or
pulp; it may be a white sauce combined with egg-yolks and
the characterizing ingredient; or it may be a panada made by
cooking either cracker or bread-crumbs with milk and adding
the prepared ingredient, this method being best for meat souffles.
Souffles need the same careful baking given to egg timbales and
are served in or from the baking-dish. The top should be
browned.
FILLETS This type of entree is composed of a solid piece of
meat or fish, and may comprise breasts or joints of poultry,
chops, large oysters, scallops, crabs, fillets of fish and the first
three cuts of beef tenderloin. These when used as entrees,
may be cooked by broiling, sauteing, frying or oven-poaching,
but never by roasting because the flavor and effect would be
too much like that of the main course.
Vegetable Entrees Hot or Cold
The following vegetables are suggested for service as en-
trees: asparagus, cauliflower and broccoli, hot with Hollandaise
or butter sauce, or cold with vinaigrette; tomato surprise,
stuffed, for instance, with mushrooms; corn on the cob; mush-
rooms; baked lima beans; long, thin string beans, not cut or
split; large beets hollowed out and filled with bread crumbs
and tiny peas or chopped carrots or both; stuffed peppers;
egg plant; baked Hubbard squash, Brussels sprouts; braized
celery or endive; cucumbers; and artichoke bottoms stuffed
with forcemeat and baked.
Cold Entrees
Asdics Aspic is a spiced tart jelly made from brown or
white meat stock alone or in combination with gelatin. It is
used to enclose a variety of foods in a mold or to give a trans-
parent coating of shining, sparkling finish. Various foods may
.4.
ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 329
be molded in aspic for instance, stuffed olives, plain or stuffed
tomatoes, eggs, birds, beef tongue, chicken salad or a mousse.
Aspics give ample opportunity to show inventiveness in de-
sign, for they are usually elaborately decorated. Decorative
shapes may be cut from pimiento, green or red pepper, olives,
pickles, hard-cooked egg-white, yellow custard, parsley, truffles
or cooked vegetables. Green peas and capers, also* are fre-
quently used.
CHAUD FROIDS For these dishes, the sauce is made up hot
but the finished product is served cold. The sauce, which
may be white, yellow or brown, and stiffened with gelatin,
is used to give a smooth, glossy surface to eggs, cutlets, breast
or other choice pieces of chicken, fish fillets, etc.^ all of which
must be plainly cooked and well seasoned. A decoration is
usual, also a final coating of aspic.
MOUSSES This term, used in connection with entrees, refers
to a dish made of a meat, fish or vegetable puree stiffened
with gelatin and made light by means of beaten cream. It
is molded to give it shape, chilled^ then unmolded for serving.
COLD SOUFFLES It is difficult to differentiate these from the
mousses. About the only difference is the manner of serving.
The mixture may be put into individual dishes of china, or
paper cases, having paper bands pinned about the top to give
greater height. When the mixture is chilled, the bands are
removed. The mixture, extending above the edge of the, con-
tainer, gives the effect of great lightness, thus simulating a
souffle.
SALADS Salads are not usually thought of as entrees, but
in a formal menu are so considered.
Borders and Cases
BREAD CROUSTADES
Cut slices of bread from one to two inches thick. Remove
the brown part of the crust. Cut each trimmed slice into
two oblongs or two triangles, for large croustades, or into four
squares or four triangles, for small croustades. Or shape the
bread with cookie cutters into circles, diamonds, etc. Insert
the point f a sharp knife into the top of the shaped piece, one-
half inch from the edge, and cut around the outline, running
330
'V^V/^/
the knife down to within one-half inch of the bottom. Insert
the knife point horizontally through one side of the slice, one-
half inch from the bottom, and cut out and remove the center^
leaving a box with half-inch walls and bottom. Fry these
cases in deep fat, (3 75 -3 90 F.) or, if you prefer, brush
them over with melted fat and set them in a moderate oven
(3 50 -400 F.) to brown.
RICE CROUSTADES
Cook one cup of washed rice in white stock instead of in
water. Drain well, mix with a thick white sauce, and spread
in a greased pan to the depth of about two inches. Cover
with oiled paper and place weights on top, so that the mix-
ture may become very compact when cold. When it is per-
fectly firm, cut it in circles,- make a cavity in the center of
each, dip the case thus made in fine bread-crumbs, then in egg,
and again in crumbs, and fry in deep fat (375-390 F.).
POTATO BORDER
9 medium-sized potatoes 1 tablespoon salt
2 tablespoons butter 2 eggs
l /2 cup hot milk
Boil and rice the potatoes. Add remaining ingredients except
54 teaspoon salt and the egg whites. Beat the mixture until very
light. Pack into a border mold, well greased, and set in warm
place eight minutes. Unmold onto an oven-proof platter. Beat
egg whites, with remaining salt, to a froth, spread over the
border and brown in a slow oven (300-350 F.).
POTATO TIMBALES Peel potatoes and cut into tiny strips
lengthwise. Heat in a small amount of fat until slightly soft
don't brown. Remove, sprinkle with salt and arrange nests
inside large deep muffin tins, pressing firmly against sides and
bottom. Bake in hot oven (450 F.) for 15 minutes. Use car-
rots, parsnips, macaroni, spaghetti or fine noodles instead of
P tat0eS - RICE BORDER
1 cup rice 2 tablespoons 'butter or other
3 cups white stock fat
1 tablespoon salt 3 tablespoons milk or cream
2 egg-yolks
Cook washed rice in white stock for one-half hour, then
add salt and butter or other fat and cook slowly twenty minutes
ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 331
more. Beat the yolks of the eggs with the cream or milk and
stir in. Grease a border mold, pack the rice firmly into it, let
it stand eight to ten minutes in a warm (not hot) place and
turn out on a hot platter. Fill the center with any meat
preparation warmed in sauce.
TIMBALE ROSETTES
1 egg l /2 cup flour
10 tablespoons irradiated y 8 teaspoon salt
evaporated milk iy 2 teaspoons sugar
Beat egg slightly. Add milk. Sift flour, then measure. Re-
sift with salt and sugar into the egg and milk mixture. Stir
until batter is smooth. It should be about the consistency of
heavy cream. Use a deep, heart-shaped timbale iron. Dip in the
hot fat to heat, then in the batter, being careful that the batter
does not come up over the top of the iron.
Have ready a small, deep kettle of fat, place the iron in it
and heat until the fat is hot enough to brown a piece of bread
while counting sixty (370 F.). The fat should be deep
enough to cover the mold end of the iron. Take out the, heated
iron, remove surplus fat with a piece of absorbent paper and
lower the iron into the batter until it is covered not more than
three-fourths its height. This is necessary to allow for the
rising of the batter during cooking. If only a thin layer of
batter adheres to the iron, plunge it in again, and repeat if
necessary until there is a smooth layer of partly cooked batter.
Plunge it quickly into the hot fat and cook from two to three
minutes. Remove from the fat, slip the case from the iron
on to absorbent paper and continue until you have the required
number of cases.
A fluted iron is easier to work with than a plain one, be-
cause the case does not slip off until thoroughly cooked. A
properly cooked case, however, should slip easily from the
mold. If the cases are not crisp, the batter is too thick and
should be diluted with milk.
These cases may be filled with a creamed vegetable, creamed
oysters, chicken or sweetbreads, or with fresh or cooked fruit
topped with whipped cream or powdered sugar. When sweet
fillings are used, they are served as a dessert. This recipe makes
about 20 cases with an iron of average size.
332
RISSOLES
These are practically little turnovers, filled with a highly
seasoned mixture of chopped chicken and ham or other deli-
cate meat moistened with white sauce. Roll puff -paste very
thin and cut in circleiS. Place a teaspoon of the mixture in the
center of each circle,; moisten half the circumference with cold
water, and fold the other half over? pressing the edges closely
together. Dip in slightly beaten egg mixed with a tablespoon
of water. Fry in deep fat (3 60 -370 F.) and drain
thoroughly.
BOUCHEES
Small pastry shells or cases filled with creamed meat or game
are called bouchees, and are much in vogue for entrees. They
provide an excellent way of utilizing left-overs of chicken,
sweetbreads, fish, etc. Paper cases, bought at the confectioner's,
may be used instead of the pastry shells.
PATTY CASES
Roll puff -paste to the thickness of one-half inch and with
a cookie cutter shape circles two and one-half to three inches
in diameter. With a tiny cutter, remove the centers from half
of the circles. Brush the edges of the complete circles with
water and lay the rings on top. Chill thoroughly? then bake
in a hot oven (400 -450 F.) from fifteen to twenty minutes.
At the same time, bake the small centers removed from the
upper layers of the cases, and use them as lids for the filled
patties.
VOL AU VENTS
A vol au vent is a large patty. The French name signifies
something that will fly away in the wind. Roll out puff -paste
one and one-half inches in thickness, and cut a circle about
six inches in diameter, using a cutter or, with a sharp knife,
cutting around the edge of a plate laid on the paste. Place the
circle on a baking-tin and^ with a sharp pointed knife or a
smaller cutter, cut a circle around the top about one and one-
half inches from the edge and about an inch deep. Do not
remove the center but bake the entire circle in a large, flat pan
in a hot oven (450-500 F.) from thirty to fifty minutes.
p
1
REMOVE ALL BUT IfTfOM CRUST.
CUT AND SCOOP* OUT CENTER.
TOAST, FILL y$jJS$: CREAMED SAL-
MON MIXTURE! CRUMB AND BROWN
TO SERVE/
THE RING MOLD IS THE DELIGHT OF FAMILY AND FRIENDS WHETHER
OF NOODLES, VEGETABLES OR CHICKEN MOUSSE
ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 333
When the outer crust is cooked, lift out the center, remove the
uncooked paste from below, and the shell is ready to be filled.
It may be filled with lobster meat, oysters, chicken, or any
kind of dedicate meat or fish chopped and seasoned, and heated
in Bechamel, white, brown or mushroom sauce, or with sweet-
meats of any kind or fresh berries, sweetened. In using fish,
always add one teaspoon of lemon- juice, to the mixture after it
is taken from the fire.
HOT ENTREES
Creamed Mixtures
PATTIES
Patty cases are usually made ahead of time and must be
thoroughly heated before they are filled. To heat them, place
them in a moderate oven (350-400 F.) fifteen or twenty
minutes before they are to be filled.
Chicken Fill hot patty cases with creamed chicken.
Clam Fill hot patty cases with creamed clams (See Index) .
Lobster Fill hot patty cases with creamed lobster.
Sweetbread Fill hot patty cases with creamed sweetbreads.
CHICKEN OR SALMON A LA KING
2 cups cooked diced chicken 1 cup mushrooms, sliced
2 tablespoons flour 1 cup chicken stock or milk
2 tablespoons butter 1 cup sour cream or evapo-
2 egg yolks rated milk
1 green pepper, minced 4 teaspoons sherry
1 pimiento, cut in thin strips Salt and pepper to taste
Mek the butter, add the peppers and mushrooms and saute
light yellow. Lift out. Blend the flour with the seasoned but-
ter. Then add the chicken stock and cook till thickened. Add
the chicken and, when hot, add the cream combined with the
beaten egg yolks, the mushrooms, pepper and pimiento. Add the
sherry and serve immediately. Do not cook after adding the
eggs or the mixture may curdle. Stand over hot, not bubbling,
water, if necessary. Use 1 can red salmon, boned and skinned.
334
CHOP SUEY
2 pounds uncooked chicken- 2 cups onions cut into threads
breast cut into pieces one- 2 cups bamboo shoots cut
sixteenth inch by one inch into pieces the same size
by one-half inch as the chicken
Bean sprouts equal in mea- 2 cups mushrooms sliced thin
sure to the chicken Fat or oil
Put the chicken meat, bean sprouts, onions, bamboo shoots
and mushrooms into a frying-pan with a little fat or oil to
prevent sticking and saute for ten minutes. Add hot water to
cover and cook for fifteen minutes longer. Add Chinese gravy;
season to taste; remove from fire and serve at once.
CHINESE GRAVY
1 cup primary soup or Sugar Salt
chicken stock 1 teaspoon Chinese sauce
1 teaspoon corn-starch (can be bought ready pre-
Sesamum seed oil pared)
Mix the corn-starch in a little cold water, stir in the primary
soup or chicken stock and let it boil until it thickens. Add the
Chinese sauce, a few drops of sesamum seed oil and sugar and
salt to taste. Stir well.
PRIMARY SOUP
l /2 pound lean pork 1 pint water
l / 2 pound chicken
Chop the meat into small pieces and simmer two and one-
half hours, then strain through several folds of cheesecloth.
SWEETBREAD AND OYSTER PIE
1 pair sweetbreads 1 cup cream or milk
2 dozen oysters 2 egg-yolks, hard cooked
1 tablespoon fat Pepper and salt
1 tablespoon flour Puff or plain pie-paste
Prepare sweetbreads (see Index). Make a white sauce with
fat, flour and cream or milk, and add the egg-yolks, chopped
very fine. Add sweetbreads and prepared oysters to the sauce.
Season, put into a deep baking-dish, cover with a layer of paste,
and bake.
ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 335
SHIRRED CLAMS OR OYSTERS WITH
MUSHROOMS
1 dozen clams or oysters 1 dozen large mushrooms
l l / 2 cups milk 3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour l / 4 teaspoon grated onion
1 or 2 teaspoons anchovy Paprika
paste Salt and lemon-juice
Cut rounds of toast in two or two and one-half inch circles
and arrange in a shallow baking-dish; place large peeled mush-
room caps on the toast. Dip clams or oysters in melted butter
seasoned with salt, lemon- juice and paprika and lay on mush-
rooms, using enough butter to season mushrooms also. Bake
in a moderate oven (375 F.), until mushrooms are tender and
clams are cooked. Make a thin white sauce of milk, butter and
flour, season with onion and anchovy and color with vegetable
bouquet. Pour around the toast and serve.
SCOTCH WOODCOCK
2 tablespoons fat 1 tablespoon anchovy paste
1 tablespoon flour l / 2 teaspoon salt
1 cup milk 6 slices of bread
5 hard-cooked eggs
Prepare a white sauce with fat, flour and milk, add eggs
chopped fine^ anchovy paste and salt. Have the bread toasted
and lay it on a hot dish. Pour the hot mixture over it and
serve immediately.
Croquettes or Cutlets
BEEF CROQUETTES
1 cup cooked beef 1 egg
2 cups mashed potatoes Flour or egg and crumbs
Chop cold roast or corned beef fine and mix with well-
seasoned hot mashed potatoes. Beat the egg, work it in with
the mass and shape the mixture into little cakes. Roll either
in flour, fine crumbs or egg and crumbs and fry in deep fat
(37S-390 F.) from two to five minutes.
336
No . L CHICKEN CROQUETTES
2 tablespoons fat l / 4 teaspoon celery salt
% cup flour 1 teaspoon lemon-juice
1 cup milk Few drops onion-juice
iy 4 cups cooked fowl 1 teaspoon chopped parsley
Salt and pepper Egg and crumbs
Make a white sauce with the fat, flour and milk. Add fowl,
seasoned with celery salt, lemon-juice, onion-juice, parsley, salt
and pepper. Cool, shape, dip into flour or fine crumbs, then into
egg and again into crumbs, and fry in deep fat (375 -3 90 F.)
from two to five minutes. White meat of fowl absorbs more
sauce than dark meat.
No. 2.
2 cups cooked chicken 5/2 teaspoon onion-juice
4 tablespoons chopped 1 tablespoon lemon-juice
mushrooms 2 tablespoons fat
1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon flour
l /2 teaspoon pepper 1 cup milk or cream
1 teaspoon parsley 4 eggs
Mix the chicken, mushrooms, salt, pepper, parsley and the
onion and lemon-juice. Make a white sauce with the fat, flour
and milk or cream. Add the chickejn, and cook for three
minutes. Stir in two of the eggs beaten until light. Take from
the fire immediately, pour into a greased, flat dish and set in a
cold place for an hour or so. The colder the, mixture becomes,
the better it may be handled. Shape into cutlets, either in molds
or with a knife, and sprinkle both sides of each cutlet with fine
crumbs. Beat the other two eggs in a deep plate. Dip the cutlets
in the egg, then in crumbs, put them in a frying-basket, not
crowding them, and cook in deep fat (375-390 F.) from two
to five minutes. Serve, with Bechamel or mushroom sauce.
CHEESE CROQUETTES
(See Index.)
CRAB CROQUETTES
Follow recipe for lobster croquettes, using crab flakes in-
stead of lobster meat.
ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 337
EGG CROQUETTES
2 cups chopped, hard-cooked l /% teaspoon pepper
eggs Dash of cayenne
1 cup thick white sauce Egg and crumbs
l /2 teaspoon salt
Chop the eggs fine, moisten with sauce as soft as can be
handled, and season. Let chill thoroughly on flat dish, well
greased, then divide evenly into portions, allowing two table-
spoons for each croquette. Shape into any desired form. Roll
in crumbs, dip in egg, again in crumbs, and fry in deep fat
(375 -3 90 F.) from two to five minutes. Drain on soft
paper. Serve with a sauce.
FISH CROQUETTES
2 cups cooked fish Egg and crumbs
l /z cup drawn-butter sauce
Mince fish. Season to taste and moisten with drawn-butter
sauce. Spread upon a greased platter, and when stiff mold
into cutlets. Roll in fine crumbs, then in egg, and again in
crumbs, leave in the refrigerator until firm, and fry in deep fat
(375-390 F.) from two to five minutes.
HAM CROQUETTES
2 cups mashed potatoes Cayenne
1 tablespoon fat 1 cup cooked ham
3 egg-yolks Egg and crumbs
Mix potato, fat, yolks of two eggs and cayenne, beat until
smooth, then set to cool. Chop the ham, mix with the other
yolk, cook until the mixture thickens, and turn out to cool.
When thoroughly coo! 2 take a tablespoon of the potato mix-
ture, make a hole in it, put a large teaspoon of the chopped
ham inside, close the hole and form a ball. Dip into flour,
then into egg, roll in crumbs, and fry in deep fat (375-390
F.) from two to five minutes.
338
LOBSTER CROQUETTES
2 tablespoons fat 1 teaspoon lemon-juice
54 cup flour l /4 teaspoon mustard
1 cup milk Egg and crumbs
2 cups cooked lobster meat
Make a white sauce, using the fat, flour and milk. Add
chopped lobster meat, which has been seasoned with lemon-
juice and mustard. Cool, shape, dip in flour, then in egg; roll
in crumbs and fry in deep fat (375-390 F.) from two to five
minutes. Serve with tomato cream sauce.
OYSTER CROQUETTES
1 pint oysters 1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon fat 1 tablespoon parsley
2 tablespoons flour l l / 2 tablespoons lemon-juice
1 egg-yolk Egg and crumbs
Cle,an the oysters (see Index). Heat in their own liquor
until the edges begin to curl, stirring all the time. Strain the
liquor and chop the oysters. Rub together fat and flour. Add
the oyster liquor and cook until thick. Then add the chopped
oysters and the well-beaten egg-yolk. After taking from the
fire, add salt, minced parsley and the lemon-juice. When stiff,
mold into desired shape. Dip in crumbs, beaten egg and crumbs
again, then fry in deep fat (375-390 F.) from two to five
minutes. Serve with horseradish sauce.
. i. SALMON CROQUETTES
1 3 /4 cups cooked salmon, fresh Salt and pepper
or canned Cayenne
2 tablespoons fat 1 teaspoon lemon-juice
% cup flour Egg and crumbs
1 cup milk
Make a white sauce with the fat, flour and milk. Add salt,
a little white pepper, and a few grains of cayenne,. To this
cream foundation add cold flaked salmon and lemon- juice.
Spread on a plate to cool. Shape; roll in fine crumbs, then in
egg and again in crumbs and fry in deep fat (375-390 F.)
from two to five minutes.
ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 339
No. 2.
1 cup hot mashed potatoes Salt and pepper
1 cup flaked salmon 1 teaspoon lemon-juice
Eggs and crumbs
Add potato to salmon. Season with salt, pepper and lemon-
juice. Shape into cutlets, egg and crumb and fry in deep fat
(375-390 F.) from two to five minutes.
SHAD ROE CROQUETTES
2 shad roe 1 tablespoon nutmeg, grated
1 tablespoon salt Pepper
1 tablespoon fat 1 tablespoon finely chopped
2 tablespoons flour parsley
1 cup milk or cream 1 teaspoon lemon-juice
2 egg-yolks Egg and crumbs
Wash the shad roe. Put them on the stove in a saucepan of
boiling water; add the salt, cover and simmer slowly a few
minutes; then remove the skin and mash them. Make a white
sauce with the fat, flour and milk, add egg-yolks, remove from
the stove, and add the seasonings and mashed roe. Mix
thoroughly and turn into a dish to cool. When cold form into
croquettes. Roll in fine crumbs, then in beaten egg, again in
bread-crumbs and fry in deep fat (375-390 F.) from two to
five minutes.
SURPRISE CROQUETTES
2 cups mashed potatoes Salt and pepper
4 tablespoons cream Cooked meat, cheese or vege-
1 teaspoon onion-juice table
2 egg-yolks Crumbs and flour
1 egg-white
To the mashed potato add cream or rich milk, onion-juice
and salt and pepper to taste. Beat over the fire until smooth
and hot. Remove, slightly cool, and add the beaten egg-yolks.
Form into cylinders, or cone shapes; make a depression in each,
and into this put a teaspoon of creamed chicken, minced highly
seasoned meat, grated cheese, or a vegetable in cream sauce.
Press the potato around the filling. Beat the egg-white slightly,
dilute with a tablespoon of water, roll the croquettes in flour,
340
*N>-^/>^
then in the beaten egg-white, and then in seasoned bread-
crumbs, and fry in deep fat (375 -390 F.) from two to five
minutes.
SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES
2 pairs sweetbreads 2 tablespoons fat
l / 4 cup mushrooms 4 tablespoons flour
1 tablespoon lemon-juice 1 cup milk or cream
l /2 teaspoon parsley 2 eggs
Salt and pepper Egg and crumbs
Prepare sweetbreads (see Index). Separate from mem-
branes, add chopped mushrooms and seasonings. Make a white
sauce with the fat, flour and milk or cream, add sweetbread
mixture and cook for three minutes. Remove from the fire
and add two eggs, well beaten. Beat slowly. Pour this mix-
ture on a platter and set it away to cool. Shape into cylinders,
roll in beaten egg, then in bread or cracker-crumbs, and fry in
hot fat (375-390 F.) from two to five minutes, using the
frying-basket. Serve with Bechamel sauce.
VEAL CROQUETTES
2 tablespoons butter or other 1 egg
fat 2 cups minced veal
3 tablespoons flour l / 2 cup chopped ham
1 cup milk y 4 cup mushrooms, truffles
1 teaspoon onion-juice or sweetbreads
Salt and pepper Egg and crumbs
Paprika
Make a white sauce with the fat, flour and milk, and add
onion- juice, a little salt, pepper and paprika. Stir in the beaten
egg, cook one minute and remove from the fire. Add to this
the minced veal, the chopped ham and the chopped mushrooms,
sweetbread, or truffles. When the mixture is cold, form into
small cylinder or pyramid shapes, roll in flour, then in egg and
then in crumbs and fry in deep fat (37S-390 F.) from two
to five minutes.
ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 341
POTATO OR HOMINY CROQUETTES
4 cups mashed potatoes or Onion-juice
cooked hominy Nutmeg
2 tablespoons cream or milk 2 egg-yolks
Salt and pepper Egg and crumbs
Chopped parsley
To the mashed hot potatoes or hominy, add cream or milk,
and seasonings. Mix well and beat until light, add the well-
beaten yolks of eggs and let stand till cold. Shape into oblong
or pear-shaped croquettes, roll in fine bread-crumbs, then in
beaten egg, and again in crumbs. Fry at once, until brown, in
hot fat (375-390 F.).
Potato croquettes may be made more, dainty by rubbing the
potato mixture through a sieve before adding the eggs. Shorty
leafless stalks of parsley thrust into pear-shaped croquettes after
the manner of stems will make them very attractive.
RICE CROQUETTES
1 cup boiled rice Grated lemon-peel
l /4 cup milk 1 egg
1 tablespoon sugar Egg and crumbs
1 teaspoon salt
Combine rice, milk, sugar, salt, gratqd lemon-peel and the
well-beaten egg, and when cold, shape in ovals, roll in egg, then
in bread-crumbs or rolled crackers, and fry a rich brown in deep
fat (375-390 F.).
RICE FAN-TAN
l /2 cup rice 1 egg
2 cups milk l / 2 cup candied fruits
5/2 teaspoon salt Egg and crumbs
2 tablespoons sugar Powdered sugar
Cook rice in milk until very soft. Stir in salt, sugar and
wejl-beaten egg, and remove at once from the fire. Mix in
cut up candied fruits cherries, apricots, pineapple, etc. and
turn into a shallow, well-oiled pan to cool. When firm, cut
into strips about one and one-half inches wide and three inches
long, dip into egg then into bread-crumbs and brown delicately
on both sides in butter or other fat. Drain, dust with powdered
sugar and serve hot.
OF YOUR SI USEFUL
USING UP SMALL
PEPPERS* ACORN SQUASHES AND OTHER SMALL
VEGETABLES MAKE ATTRACTIVE CUPS FOR
LEFTOVER MIXT
THE TRADITIONAL CROQUETTE
MAY BE VARIED TO SUIT TIME
AND OCCASION, AS IN THESE
MEAT BALLS ON HOT PEACH
HALVES
342
No. 1. FRIED OR SAUTEED MUSH
Make mush according to directions given (Index). Turn
it into a shallow greased pan, smoothing the surface. When
it is cold, turn it from the, pan, cut in slices or cubes, dip in
fine bread or cracker-crumbs, then in beaten egg, adding three
tablespoons of milk to each egg, and then again in the crumbs.
Fry in deep fat (375-390 F.). Drain on soft paper. Serve
hot with jelly sauce or sirup.
No. 2 Cut cold mush into slices about one-fourth of an inch
thick, and saute until brown and crisp in a very little fat; if pre-
ferred, the slices may be sprinkled with flour, or dipped first
in salted beaten egg and then in bread or cracker-crumbs, before
sauteing. Hominy and other cereals may be fried in the same
way.
Fritters
(For sweet fritters and fritter batter, see Index).
CLAM FRITTERS
24 soft clams 1 cup milk
2 cups flour l / 2 cup clam liquor
2 teaspoons baking-powder 2 eggs
l /2 teaspoon salt Salt and pepper
Make a batter of flour, baking-powder, salt, milk, clam
liquor and well-beaten eggs. Chop the clams, season with salt
and pepper and add to the batter. Drop by tablespoonfuls
into deep fat (3 60 -3 70 F.) and fry two to three minutes.
CORN FRITTERS
2 cups corn, fresh or canned 1 teaspoon melted fat
1 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup milk
l /% teaspoon pepper 2 cups flour
1 egg 2 teaspoons baking-powder
Chop the corn very fine and add salt, pepper, well-beaten
egg, melted fat, milk, flour and baking-powder. Fry two to
three minutes in deep fat (360-370 F.).
ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 343
OYSTER FRITTERS
l l /z cups oysters 2 cups flour
2 eggs 2 teaspoons baking-powder
1 cup milk Yz teaspoon salt
Chop the oysters. Make a batter of the eggs, milk, flour,
baking-powder and salt. Stir the oysters into the batter and
drop by spoonfuls into deep hot fat (360-370 F.).
PARSNIP FRITTERS
3 parsnips 1 cup milk
2 eggs 1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon fat 3 tablespoons flour
Boil the parsnips tender, grate fine or mash and pick out all
the fibrous parts. Beat the eggs light, and stir into the parsnips,
beating hard. Add the fat, milk, salt and flour. Drop by
spoonfuls into deep fat (3 60 -3 70 F.) and fry two to three
minutes.
BREADED CALVES' BRAINS
Soak two pairs of calves' brains in cold water one-half hour;
then remove the thick membrane covering them and see that
they are perfectly white and bloodless. Divide into servings
for six. Put into enough boiling water to cover and simmer
for fifteen minutes. Then take them up and plunge them into
cold water. When they are cool, drain and season generously
with salt, and pepper. Dip into flour, then into beaten egg,
seasoned with salt and pepper, then into fine bread-crumbs;
place in a frying-basket and cook in deep fat (37$-400 F.)
five to eight minutes. Serve with ravigote or white sauce.
FLANK STEAK FILLETS
1 flank steak, unscored y 2 onion, chopped
y 2 pound kidney suet or salt 2y 2 teaspoons salt
pork y 4 teaspoon pepper
y 2 green pepper 8 metal skewers
1 cup tomatoes, strained
Cut suet or salt pork into one-inch strips. Place on steak and
roll meat tightly around the fat, skewering it through the roll
344
^N^^X>-/
l}/2 inches apart. Cut roll between skewers forming individual
fillets of steak with small squares of fat in center. Flour; brown
fillets on both sides, place in casserole or covered pan; add toma-
toes, onion, pepper and seasoning. Other vegetables, fine cut,
may also be added. Simmer 1 hour or until tender or finish in
300 F. oven. '
RING MOLDS
The ring mold is one of the most satisfactory ways of serving
entrees since it is decorative, permits endless variety in appear-
ance but involves no additional labor. Any recipe baked in a
loaf may be used in the ring mold. Grease the mold as any pan
for baking and unmold on the plate to be used for serving. The
center may be filled with another cooked vegetable, a stew,
creamed fish or poultry, or a china, glass or silver bowl of the
exact size may be slipped into the center and filled with the
sauce or dressing to be served with the ring,
NOODLE RING WITH CREAMED CHICKEN
1 pound noodles Dash of salt and pepper
3 eggs 2 tablespoons catchup
1 cup milk 1 cup grated Cheddar cheese
y 2 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
Cook noodles and drain. Beat eggs well. Combine with other
ingredients. Add to noodles and pour into buttered ring mold.
Set in pan of hot water and bake in a moderate oven (350 F.)
45 minutes. Unmold carefully onto a large platter and fill the
center with creamed chicken (see page 286). Spaghetti, maca-
roni or rice can be used instead of noodles.
KIDNEY A LA FRANCAISE
1 beef kidney Bit of bay-leaf
Flour Salt and pepper
Fat Y 4 inch slice of lemon
Soak a beef kidney in cold water for one hour, changing the
water two or three times as it colors; then place on the fire in
cold water and gently heat to the boiling-point. Drain off this
ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 345
water and put on fresh cold water for a second heating. Again
heat and again change the water.
In the third water simmer the kidney for ten minutes. Then
remove it from the fire, and when cool enough to handle,, cut
out the cords and most of the center fat. Slice thin^ dip each
piece in flour and saute in fat until brown.
Remove the meat from the pan, add flour to the fat, stir
well, and brown thoroughly. Add boiling- water, stirring until
a smooth sauce is formed. Return the meat to the pan, add
bay-leaf, salt, pepper and slice of lemon from which the peel
has been removed. Simmer for one hour with the pan covered,
adding more water if it reduces too much. There should be
only enough water to form a rich sauce. Remove the bay-leaf,
and serve on a heated platter.
KIDNEYS EN BROCHETTE
Split the kidneys, put over the fire in cold water and bring
to the boiling-point rapidly. Drain, wipe and slice each half.
Arrange these slices on small metal skewers, alternating with
slices of fat bacon the same size,. Broil quickly and serve on
toast, leaving the skewer in.
SWEETBREADS EN BROCHETTE
Prepare the sweetbreads (See Index), cut into pieces about
one inch square and one-half inch thick, season, dip into melted
fat and then into flour and string on small skewers alternately
with thin squares of bacon. Broil, or lay the skewers across
a narrow pan and cook in a hot oven (400 -450 F.).
BRAISED SWEETBREADS A LA PARLOA
3 pairs sweetbreads 1 teaspoon beef extract
1 teaspoon minced carrot 1 bay-leaf
2 teaspoons minced onion 1 sprig parsley
2 tablespoons fat 1 teaspoon lemon-juice
1 tablespoon flour Salt and pepper
1 cup water
Prepare sweetbreads according to directions (See Index)
and arrange in deep baking-dish. Cook vegetables in fat for
fifteen minutes. Add flour and stir until the mixture becomes
frothy. Add the water gradually, stirring all the time. When
346
"NX-^SX
this liquid boils, stir in the meat extract and seasonings. Cook
for five minutes and strain over the sweetbreads. Cover the
pan and cook in a moderate oven (350 F.) for one hour, bast-
ing every fifteen minutes with the gravy in the pan. Arrange
the sweetbreads on pieces of toast on a warm dish^ and pour
mushroom sauce around them.
Vegetable Entrees
STUFFED PEPPERS
PREPARING PEPPERS FOR STUFFING Cut off the tops of the
peppers or cut them in two lengthwise, and remove the inner
fibers and seeds. Drop into boiling water, remove from the
fire, let stand ten to twelve, minutes, then drain.
MEAT STUFFING No. 1.
6 green peppers l /2 cup bread- or cracker-
1 cup cooked meat, chopped crumbs
fine and seasoned Milk or cream
Prepare peppers as directed. Mix the meat with the bread
or cracker-crumbs and moisten with a little milk or cream.
Be sure that it is rather highly seasoned. (The potted meats
that come in cans are excellent for this purpose.) Fill the
peppers with the mixture and serve at once or cover with
buttered crumbs and set in the oven (400 F.) for ten minutes
to brown. Use small vegetables: Lima beans, corn or diced car-
rots, instead of meat.
No. 2.
6 green peppers 1 cup water or stock
l /z onion 1% cups moistened bread-
1 % cups cooked meat crumbs
(veal, chicken or ham) Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon fat
Cut a slice from the stem end of each pepper. Remove seeds
and parboil peppers ten minutes. Mix minced cooked meat
with moistened bread-crumbs, add salt, pepper, melted fat and
the onion, grated. Stuff the peppers with this mixture and
stand them in a dripping-pan. Add watqr or stock. Bake in
ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 347
a moderate oven (350-375 F.) thirty minutes, basting fre-
quently. Cooked rice may be used instead of the bread-crumbs.
CHEESE STUFFING
6 green peppers 1 tablespoon melted butter
1 cup crumbs or other fat
Y 2 cup chopped cheese Salt
Prepare peppers as directed. Mix the crumbs with the cheese.
Then add the butter or other fat and salt to taste. Fill the
peppers with the mixture and serve with the meat course.
SHRIMP STUFFING
2 cups cooked shrimps, fresh Nutmeg
or canned Celery seed
1 tablespoon butter or other 1 egg
fat 1/2 cup bread-crumbs
l / 2 teaspoon mustard 6 green peppers
Pepper
Prepare shrimps as directed (See Index). Cut off the stem
ends or tops of the peppers, and remove the seeds and veins, and
soak the peppers in cold water for one-half hour. Cream the
fat by beating and then also beat into it the seasonings and egg.
Add the crumbs, mixing the ingredients well, and finally stir-
ring in the shrimps. Drain the peppers and fill with the pre-
pared stuffing. Set them in a pan, open side up and bake in a
moderate oven (350-375 F.) for thirty minutes.
SWEETBREAD STUFFING
1 cup cooked sweetbreads l /2 cup brown or white stock
6 peppers (preferably chicken)
2 tablespoons butter or other 2 tablespoons cream
fat l /2 cup button mushrooms
2 tablespoons flour Worcestershire sauce
Crumbs Salt, pepper and paprika
Prepare the sweetbreads (See Index) . Melt fat, add flour, salt
and pepper. Mix smooth, add stock and cream. Cook until
thick. Stir in the sweetbreads and mushrooms, cut into small
pieces, and the, seasoning. Fill prepared peppers, cover with
buttered crumbs and bake for thirty minutes in a moderate
348
^\>^x
oven (350-375 F.). Mushroom sauce may be poured around
the peppers.
ASPARAGUS TIMBALES
1 bunch asparagus 54 teaspoon salt
1 cup bread-crumbs Few grains of cayenne
% cup hot milk 1 l /z tablespoons melted fat
2 eggs 5/2 tablespoon onion-juice
1 tablespoon parsley
Wash the asparagus thoroughly; cut the tender parts into
bits one-half inch long, and put into boiling salted water. Boil
rapidly for ten minutes and drain thoroughly. In the mean-
time, cover the bread-crumbs with the hot milk. When the
crumbs are soft, add the eggs, and mix well together. Stir in
salt, cayenne, melted fat and onion- juice; then stir in asparagus
tips, carefully. Grease small timbale, molds, sprinkle them with
minced parsley and fill two-thirds full. Set in a baking-pan
that contains boiling water, but do not allow the water to
reach the top of the molds. Cover with a sheet of greased
paper and cook in a slow oven (2?0-325 F.) for thirty-five
to forty-five minutes. Invert on a heated platter, garnish with
parsley and serve with a white sauce.
COLD ENTREES
ASPIC JELLY
2 pounds beef Salt and pepper
5/2 pound ham or bacon 1 egg-white
Sweet herbs 2 tablespoons lemon-juice
Put the beef into the pot and, if desired, veal or beef bones
also, though they require longer boiling to dissolve the gelatin.
Add the ham or bacon and all the sweet herbs, such as thyme,
basil, parsley and marjoram, and salt and pepper to taste. Boil
for three or four hours; strain and put away to cool. When
cold, take off all the fat and sediment. Throw into it the
slightly beaten egg-white, and the lemon-juice, place again
on the fire, boil for a few minutes and strain through a jelly-
bag.
This is used for molding cold meat.
i
ENTREES AND MADE-OVER DISHES 349
MINCED HAM IN CIDER CUPS
1 cup boiled ham 5/2 cup celery
3 hard-cooked eggs 2 tablespoons gelatin
1/2 teaspoon salt 2 cups cider
Pepper l /2 cup sugar
% teaspoon cayenne pepper l /z cup cold water
3 tablespoons lemon-juice 1 cup whipped cream
Soak gelatin in cold water, and pour over it boiling cider to
which the sugar and lemon have been added. Strain into border
molds. When firm, remove from the molds and fill with the
mixture made of the other ingredients and serve immediately.
BRAISED TONGUE WITH ASPIC JELLY
1 beef tongue 1 blade of mace
2 onions 1 bunch thyme
1 stalk celery 1 bunch parsley
4 cloves 1 box gelatin
Salt and pepper 1 cup cold water
1 teaspoon sugar
"Wash and scrub the tongue well in salt water and simmer
(180 -2 10 F.) it until tender. Remove the, skin, and place
the tongue in a stew-pan with onion, celery, cloves, salt and
pepper. Cover it with the liquor in which it was boiled and
add sugar, mace, thyme and parsley. Simmer for two hours.
Take out the tongue. Add to the liquor gelatin, soaked in the
cold water, boil for two minutes, stirring constantly, strain and
pour over the tongue. Serve cold.
CHAUD FROID OF EGGS
6 hard-cooked eggs Paprika
2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons chopped olives
Chaud-froid sauce or pickles
Salt and pepper
Cook eggs hard and cut in halves lengthwise. Remove yolks
and mash to a paste with the melted butter, pepper, salt, pap-
rika, and chopped olives or pickles. Refill whites and mask
with chaud-froid sauce. Garnish each with a star cut from a
truffle or from a green or red pepper. Let stand in a cold place
till firm. These may be served at luncheon or supper.
350
CHICKEN MOUSSE
2 cups ground cooked chick- % cup heavy cream,
en whipped
1/2 cu p salad dressing Salt, pepper
2 tablespoons lemon juice l^ tablespoons gelatin
% teaspoon ground celery Lettuce
seed Brussels sprouts, carrots and
1/2 cup cold chicken stock parsley
Blend the chicken, salad dressing, lemon juice and celery
seed. Fold in the whipped cream. Season to taste. Fold in the
gelatin which has been softened in the cold chicken stock, dis-
solved over hot water, then cooled. Pour into a ring mold and
chill until firm. Unmold, fill the center with Brussels sprouts
and garnish the platter with carrots and parsley.
HAM MOUSSE
Follow the directions for chicken mousse, substituting cooked
ham for the cooked chicken. Chopped mushrooms are a deli-
cious addition to this dish, and mushrooms may be mixed with
the sauce when ready to serve, and also may be used as
decorations.
SALMON MOLD PIQUANTE
1 tablespoon gelatin % cup milk
1/4 cup cold water iy 2 tablespoons melted
iy 2 teaspoons salt butter
11/2 teaspoons mustard 4 tablespoons lemon juice
Dash cayenne 1 cup flaked salmon
2 egg yolks, slightly beaten Lettuce
Soften gelatin in cold water 5 minutes. Combine seasonings,
egg yolks and milk in top of double boiler, and cook over hot
water 6 to 8 minutes or until thickened, stirring constantly.
Add butter, lemon juice and gelatin, stirring until gelatin is
dissolved. Remove from fire and fold in salmon. Turn into fish
mold; chill until firm. Unmold on bed of crisp lettuce and
serve with cucumber cream dressing.
VEGETARIAN DISHES
VEGETARIAN dishes make agreeable variations in the diet,
and frequently reduce the food bill. They are welcome
in any household where the program of using meat only once
a day is being followed. Dishes containing a large percentage
of milk, eggs or cheese, together with dried legumes, nuts or
gelatin, are nutritious and typical vegetarian dishes.
People not accustomed to meatless menus may experience
an unsatisfied feeling at the end of a meal that is entirely
vegetarian. This is largely due to the fact that meat is a highly
flavored food. The housewife will do well, therefore, to offer
some well-seasoned dish in a vegetarian menu.
A ring mold is a decorative way of serving vegetarian dishes
with no extra labor. The following recipes calling for a loaf
form may be used for the ring mold. See page 344.
CHESTNUT CROQUETTES
2 cups hot mashed chestnuts Few drops of onion-juice or
4 tablespoons fat 2 tablespoons minced onion
2 eggs Egg and crumbs
Salt and pepper
Mix the chestnuts, fat, slightly beaten eggs and seasonings.
Shape into croquettes. Roll in crumbs, then in beaten egg and
again in crumbs. Fry in deep hot fat (3 75 -3 90 F.) until
crumbs are brown (2-5 minutes).
This dish offers adequate protein and iron and a compara-
tively highly seasoned dish. The croquettes may be served
with brown sauce or tomato sauce.
PEANUT BALLS
1 tablespoon fat Pepper
2 tablespoons flour 2 cups cooked rice
l /2 cup milk l /4 cup ground peanuts
l /2 teaspoon salt 1 egg
Make white sauce from fat, flour, milk and seasoning. Mix
rice, peanuts, white sauce and beaten egg, and shape into small
351
352
*V/VXN^
balls. Saute in a greased frying-pan turning frequently so that
the balls are browned all over. Or, roll in beaten egg, then in
crumbs and fry in deep fat (375-390 F.).
This dish is low in both iron and protein, therefore milk,
eggs or cheese should appear elsewhere in the menu. These
balls are good served with cheese sauce.
PEANUT SCRAPPLE
1 cup hot milk 1 1 / 4 teaspoons salt
1 quart boiling water % teaspoon paprika
1 cup yellow corn-meal 1 1 /2 cups chopped peanuts
1/4. cup hominy grits 54 to 1 cup grated cheese
Combine hot milk and boiling water, bring to boiling-point
and add corn-meal, hominy grits and seasoning. Stir constantly
until the liquid is thickened by the cere,al. Place in a double
boiler and cook one hour. Ten minutes before taking up, add
the peanuts and cheese.
Place in a deep rectangular bread-pan and allow it to cool.
When ready to use, cut in small slices (roll in egg and crumbs
if desired) and fry in deep fat (375-390 F.) until brown
(2-5 minutes) ; or place in a greased baking-pan, sprinkle with
grated cheese mixed with bread-crumbs and bake in a moderate
oven '(3 50 -400 F.) until brown.
This makes an excellent luncheon or supper dish.
PEANUT BUTTER CUTLETS
1 Vz cups peanut butter Pepper
1 1 /2 cups hot milk 6 half -inch slices of bread
1 teaspoon salt
Mix peanut butter with hot milk and seasoning, mixing to-
gether thoroughly. Dip slices of bread into the peanut-butter
mixture. Saute in hot fat. Garnish with pickles and olives.
This dish offers both adequate protein and iron,
BAKED PEANUTS
4 cups shelled raw peanuts 4 tablespoons salad oil
Cover peanuts with cold water and soak over night. In the
morning, place them over the fire, and boil ten minutes. Re-
VEGETARIAN DISHES 353
move from water and dry. Add oil and mix well. Place the
mixture in a greased baking-dish and bake (400 F.) until the
peanuts are soft and well browned.
If extra seasoning is desired, a small quantity of catchup,
salt, molasses and mustard may be added during the baking,
as for baked beans.
PEANUT SOUFFLE
1 tablespoon fat Few drops lemon-juice
6 tablespoons flour 1 1 /2 cups scalded mlik
% cup peanut butter 4 eggs
1 l /z teaspoons salt
Melt the fat and add the flour, peanut butter and seasoning.
Cook for three minutes, stirring constantly. Add scalded milk,
and continue cooking until the mixture reaches the boiling-
point. Remove from the fire, pour the, hot mixture over the
well-beaten egg-yolks, mixing thoroughly. Cool, and fold in
the egg-whites that have been beaten until stiff and dry. When
the ingredients are thoroughly combined, place in a ring mold,
set in a pan of water in a slow oven (375 F.) and bake thirty
minutes. Serve immediately.
This is a hearty main dish, but, because of its texture, should
have something crisp or solid served with it.
MOCK SAUSAGE
1 cup dried Lima beans or 3 eggs
3 cups cooked beans of 2 tablespoons fat
any kind l / 2 teaspoon sage
% cup bread-crumbs Salt and pepper
Pick over and wash beans, cover with water and let soak over
night. Drain, cook in boiling salted water until tender, then
force through a strainer. Add remaining ingredients, shape
into the form of sausages, roll in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again.
Saute until brown. Serve with tomato sauce.
This recipe makes six to eight sausages, three inches long and
thre,e-fourths of an inch thick. It should be accompanied by
some milk, egg or cheese dish.
354
PEANUT CHOPS
6 half -inch slices rye bread l / 2 teaspoon salt
1 cup peanut butter */& teaspoon paprika
s/4 cup top milk Cracker-crumbs
2 eggs
Cut crust from bread and divide in lengthwise strips. Spread
peanut butter on both sides of each strip. Add milk and season-
ing to the eggs and beat thoroughly. Dip strips of bread into
the mixture, remove and dip into sifted cracker-crumbs. Put
into a greased bread -pan and bake in a hot oven (400 -450
F.) until golden brown. This is a good main dish.
BAKED COW PEAS
2 cups cooked cow peas 1 chopped onion
or split peas l /z cup bread-crumbs
2 cups boiled rice Salt, pepper, and butter
2 cups stewed tomatoes
Put the cooked peas, rice,, tomatoes and onion in layers in a
greased baking-dish. Season well, cover with bread-crumbs and
bake (400) until brown. Serve with brown sauce.
This needs eggs, milk or cheese to accompany it, but it has
excellent flavor.
BEAN ROAST
1 cup roasted shelled peanuts % cup milk
2 cups seasoned mashed 1 egg
potatoes 1 teaspoon salt
2 cups cooked Lima beans, */& teaspoon paprika
fresh or canned 1 teaspoon onion-juice
Grind the peanuts, using the finest blade of the food-chopper.
In a greased baking-dish place a layer of potatoes, a layer of
beans and a layer of peanuts. Continue making layers until all
the ingredients are used. Blend milk with well-beaten egg and
seasoning and pour over the top. Bake in a moderate oven
(3 50 -400 F.) until brown. Serve with brown sauce or
tomato sauce.
VEGETARIAN DISHES 355
VEGETABLE LUNCHEON
1 pound kidney beans 2 cups cooked tomatoes, fresh
1 cup diced carrot or canned
1 green pepper, chopped l /2 cup rice
1 large onion l /2 dozen large mushrooms
Soak the beans in cold water overnight; drain and cook in
boiling water slowly for about four hours. A ham-bone or a
piece of bacon cooked with them adds to the flavor. Drain, add
carrot, pepper, tomatoes, and thin slices of onion. Simmer until
tender. Boil rice separately in salted water, drain and add to
the vegetables. (The rice water should be used in soups or
gravies.) Garnish with sauteed green peppers and mushrooms.
CELERY, NUT AND POTATO LOAF
2 large stalks celery 1 egg
% cup chopped nuts 1 teaspoon salt
3 cups mashed potatoes Ys teaspoon paprika
3 tablespoons fat 2 teaspoons grated onion
Wash, cut in small pieces and cook the celery until tender
in a small amount of boiling salted water. Drain off liquid.
(This may be used for soup stock later.) Then add the other
ingredients to the celery in the order in which they are given.
Combine them carefully, pack in a loaf in a greased bread-
pan, and bake in a moderate oven (3 50 -400 F.) for thirty-
five minutes. Serve with tomato sauce.
CARROT LOAF OR RING
2 cups ground carrot 2 cups strained tomatoes
2 cups bread-crumbs 1 teaspoon salt
% cup chopped nuts Ys teaspoon pepper
3 eggs 2 teaspoons minced onion
Mix the, ingredients in the order given. Shape the mixture
into a loaf and put into a greased baking-pan. Steam the loaf
for one hour and then brown it in the oven (400 F.) . Or pour
into greased ring mold, set in pan of hot water and bake in
moderate oven (350 F.) until firm about 40 minutes. Un-
mold on a hot plate; fill center with hot cooked peas.
356
PEANUT AND CARROT LOAF
1 cup chopped carrots 1 1 /2 tablespoons fat
1 cup coarse ground peanuts 4 eggs, slightly beaten
1 cup strained tomatoes 1 teaspoon chopped parsley
1 cup crumbs Salt
Chop separately the carrots and peanuts, or put them through
the food-chopper, using the coarse knife. Add the other in-
gredients and form in a loaf. Place in a greased pan and bake
one hour and a quarter in a moderate oven (350-400 F.).
NUT LOAF
2 cups soft bread-crumbs 2 eggs
1 cup milk 1 teaspoon salt
2 cups chopped nut-meats 1 teaspoon paprika
Soak bread-crumbs in milk, add nuts, slightly beaten eggs and
seasonings. Turn into greased bread-pan, set into pan of water
and bake (350 F.) forty minutes. Serve with tomato sauce.
The loaf may be steamed instead of baked.
PEANUT ROAST
1 tablespoon chopped onion 1 cup bread-crumbs
1 tablespoon chopped celery 1 cup green pea pulp, fresh or
2 tablespoons fat canned
YZ cup hot water Juice of half a lemon
1 1 /2 cups chopped peanuts 1 teaspoon salt
1 egg Dash of pepper
Cook onion and celery in fat until golden brown. Add hot
water and simmer until vegetables are tender. Mix other in-
gredients, adding the egg last. Combine the mixture with the
celejry and onion mixture. Pack into greased baking-dish and
bake (350 F.) until golden brown. Serve with cream sauce.
BOSTON ROAST
1 Y2 cups dry kidney beans 2 tablespoons chopped onion
3 tablespoons salt 1 cup bread-crumbs
1 to 2 cups grated cheese l /z cup milk
Soak beans twenty-four hours. Cook until soft in water in
which the salt has been dissolved. Drain; chop; add onion.
VEGETARIAN DISHES 357
cheese, crumbs, more salt if needed, and enough milk to moisten.
Form into a loaf. Bake in a moderate oven (350-400 F.) for
forty minutes. Baste occasionally with hot water and fat.
BAKED BEAN ROAST
2 tablespoons minced peppers 2 cups crumbs
2 tablespoons minced onion 1 cup tomatoes
4 tablespoons fat Salt and pepper
4 cups mashed baked beans l /2 teaspoon paprika
2 eggs, slightly beaten
Cook pepper and onion in fat. Add other ingredients in the
order given. Bake (350 F. ) in greased baking-dish for thirty
minutes. Serve with brown sauce or tomato sauce.
A cheese or milk dish should be added to this meal.
LIMA BEAN LOAF
2 cups Lima beans 1 tablespoon poultry seasoning
1 cup dry bread-crumbs 2 tablespoons grated onion
4 tablespoons peanut butter 1 tablespoon bacon fat
l /z teaspoon pepper 1 cup milk (more, if needed)
Wash and soak the beans overnight, then cook in boiling
water until soft (about forty-five minute,s). Drain, cool, then
chop coarsely. Add crumbs mixed with peanut butter and
seasoning, then fat, and milk to moisten. Put into a greased
bread-pan and bake in a moderate oven (3 50 -400 F.) thirty
minutes. Serve with brown sauce, cream sauce or tomato
sauce.
COTTAGE CHEESE AND PEANUT LOAF
5/2 cup peanuts l / 2 teaspoon salt
cup cottage cheese Dash of pepper
cup cold, cooked rolled oats 1 teaspoon poultry seasoning
cup milk Few drops Worcestershire
egg, slightly beaten sauce
tablespoon fat 1 tablespoon chopped onion
Chop peanuts and add other ingredients in order given.
When thoroughly combined, place in a greased bread-tin. Bake
in a moderate oven (3 50 -400 F.) until brown. Serve hot
with tomato sauce.
358
NUT AND CHEESE LOAF
1 tablespoon chopped onion 1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon fat % teaspoon paprika
1 cup grated cheese l l /2 tablespoons lemon- juice
1 cup chopped nuts l / 2 teaspoon Worcestershire
l /2 cup milk sauce
1 cup cooked cereal Buttered crumbs
1 teaspoon salt
Cook onion in fat until delicately brown. Mix with all the
other ingredients and moisten with milk. Cover with buttered
crumbs and brown in oven (400 F.). Serve hot with tomato
sauce.
Serve with some crispy food such as celery.
CHEESE MACARONI LOAF
% cup macaroni l / 2 cup grated cheese
1 teaspoon parsley 1 1 /2 cups milk
2 teaspoons chopped onion 1 egg
1 tablespoon green pepper 1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons fat l / 2 cup buttered crumbs
Cook macaroni in boiling salted water until tender. Saute
the parsley, onion and pepper in the fat until tender. Drain
water from macaroni. Place a layer of this in a buttered bak-
ing-dish, then a layer of peppers, onions and cheese. Repeat
until dish is full. Pour over it the milk mixed with the egg.
Cover with buttered crumbs, and brown in oven (400 F.).
Serve with tomato sauce.
VEGETABLE LOAF
l /2 cup cooked green peas 1 cup soft bread-crumbs
l /2 cup cooked green, string l / 2 teaspoon salt
beans l / 8 teaspoon pepper
l / 2 cup chopped boiled carrots l /2 teaspoon paprika
l l /2 cups milk 1 egg
Press peas through a sieve, cut beans in small pieces, then
combine all vegetables. Add to them the milk, slightly beaten
egg, crumbs and seasoning. Turn into a greased baking-dish
and bake in a moderate oven (3 50 -400 F.) until firm.
VEGETARIAN DISHES 359
PEA TIMBALES
1 y 2 cups pea pulp 3 eggs, well beaten
2 tablespoons melted butter Salt and pepper
Blend the ingredients well together, pour into greased molds;
set the molds into a pan containing hot water and bake (250-
325 F.). Serve with medium white sauce.
CHILI CON CARNE
Y 4 cup olive oil 2 cloves garlic
2 pounds lean beef (cut in 1 tablespoon paprika
%-inch cubes) 2 teaspoons oregano
1/4 pound beef suet (cut in Salt and pepper
%-inch cubes) 1 or 2 cups hot water
1 cup minced onions 2 tablespoons chili powder
Heat the olive oil, add the meat and suet and cook until meat
is brown. Add onions and garlic and cook about 5 minutes,
stirring constantly; then stir in the chili powder, paprika,
oregano, salt and pepper. Add 1 cup water and simmer until
meat is tender. Add more water if necessary.
WITH BEANS Serve chili with baked beans, rice or Lima
beans; or add 4 cups red kidney beans to the meat before sim-
mering.
AZTEC BAKED BEANS
3 cups cooked red beans % teaspoon mustard
iy 2 cups canned tomatoes Dash pepper
Ipimiento minced 3 , teaspoon curry powder
y 4 cup deviled ham ;* 7, ,
1/4 cup onion, minced ll /2 tablespoons molasses
6 strips Canadian bacon or ll /2 tablespoons sugar
corned beef 54 teaspoon salt
Mix all ingredients except meat; turn into greased casserole,
arrange meat on top and bake in 350 F. oven about 30 minutes,
or until smoked meat is crisp.
EGG DISHES
TO test an egg for freshness, place it in a glass of water. If
the egg falls to the bottom of the glass and lies on its side,
it is a fresh egg; if the large end rises slightly, the egg is
somewhat stale; if it stands on end or floats, it is very stale.
The shell of a fresh egg has a bloom; that of a stale egg is usually
shiny. If the contents of an egg rattle when it is shaken, it is
not fresh.
EGGS COOKED IN THE SHELL
HARD-COOKED (CODDLED) Place the eggs in a saucepan of
cold water and heat slowly until the boiling-point is reached.
Set the container on the back of the stove or reduce the heat so
that the water will not boil again and let stand twenty to thirty
minutes before removing the eggs. Another method of regulat-
ing the 'temperature is to cook them in the double boiler.
SOFT-COOKED (CODDLED) Use one pint water for each egg
up to six eggs, one-half pint for each additional egg, and use a
small deep saucepan so that the water will cover the eggs. Bring
the water to the boiling-point in a vessel that can be covered
closely. Put the eggs in at once, cover, set off the fire and let
stand in a warm place for four to six minutes, depending on con-
sistency desired. In this way, the eggs will be cooked equally
well in every part.
POACHED OR DROPPED EGGS
No. 1 Heat salted water to the boiling-point in a frying-pan
or other shallow pan. Break an egg into a saucer, then slip it
gently into the water. Repeat until all the eggs are in. Re-
move the pan from the fire, cover and keep hot until the eggs
are set to the desired degree. If the yolk is not entirely covered,
dip the water over it carefully until it is coated with white. Re-
move with a skimmer or perforated ladle and slip on to a thin
piece of buttered toast. Buttered muffin rings may be placed
in thei water and each egg slipped into a muffin ring for cooking^
or an egg-poacher may be used.
360
EGG DISHES 361
Poached eggs are often placed in clear soup, one egg being
prepared for each person to be served. They are served also on
thin slices of boiled ham, on mounds of corned-beef hash, on
Welsh rabbit or on cooked spinach.
No. 2 Separate the yolk and white. Beat the white until
stiff and put it in a glass ramekin. Drop the yolk in the center
of the beaten white. Set the ramekin in hot water until the
egg sets. Garnish with a bit of butter and sprinkle with salt
and pepper. Serve in the ramekin.
FRIED EGGS
No. 1 Heat cooking-fat in a frying-pan and slip in the
eggs. Cook as many eggs at one time as will fill the pan with-
out touching one another. Baste with some of the fat, to cook
the yolk. Cook slowly, for if the fat becomes very hot the eggs
will be tough and hard to digest but if the temperature of the
fat is kept down, the egg may be made as delicate as if poached
in water.
Eggs may be fried very successfully by covering the pan as
soon as the eggs have been added, and then placing it in the
oven or over a very slow fire, so that the eggs will cook very
slowly.
No. 2 With Brown Butter
6 eggs Salt and pepper
3 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon vinegar
Saute the eggs in one tablespoon butter until set, season with
salt and pepper, and place on a platter. Brown two tablespoons
butter in the pan, add one teaspoon vinegar, and when hot, pour
over the eggs.
BAKED EGGS
No. 1 Use individual baking-dishes and melt one teaspoon
of butter in each dish. Break the, eggs into the dishes, allow-
ing one or two eggs to a dish. Sprinkle with salt and pepper,
and place a tiny piece of butter on each. Bake in a slow oven
(250-350 F.) until the eggs are set but not hard. Serve in
the baking-dishes.
No. 2 SHIRRED Use small ramekins or egg-shirrers. Grease
each dish, put in a layer of buttered crumbs, break an egg over
the crumbs, season with salt and pepper and cover with buttered
362
'V-' I 'V^X>
crumbs. Bake in a slow oven (2$0-350 F.) until the eggs
are set and the crumbs brown. Serve in the ramekins.
No. 3 ON TOAST Moisten the edges of the toast with hot
water and spread with butter. Separate the yolks and whites
of the eggs. Poach the yolks in salted water until soft cooked,
and place one on each slice of toast, being careful not to break
it. Beat the whites very stiff, spread around the yolks, season
with salt and pepper, and brown in the oven (350 F.).
No. 4 IN TOMATO SAUCE Grease, small ramekins and place
two tablespoons thick tomato sauce in each. Slip a poached egg
into each dish, cover with grated cheese, season with salt and
pepper, and bake in a very hot ovejn (450-500 F.) two or
three minutes, to brown the cheese.
No. 5 IN BACON RINGS Curl long slices of bacon around
the inside of muffin-cups or small ramekins. Break an egg in-
side each bacon-ring, season with salt and pepper and bake
(350 F. ) until set, but not hard. Remove carefully from the
dish so that the egg will remain fastened to the bacon. Ar-
range on a platter and garnish with parsley.
No. 6 WITH BACON STRIPS Fry the bacon very crisp, but
not hard, then arrange the slices in groups of two on a large
plate or in individual baking-dishes. Break one egg over each
two slices of bacon, season with salt and pepper and bake slowly
(300 F.) until set, but not hard.
BATTERED OR SCRAMBLED EGGS
No. 1 In a frying-pan, place one teaspoon of butter for each
egg. Beat the eggs until the whites and yolks are well mixed.
Season with salt and pepper and add one to three tablespoons
of milk or cream for each egg. Pour into the hot fat and
cook slowly, stirring constantly until the eggs are of the de-
sired consistency. Serve at once. A little onion -juice or
chopped parsley may be added to the eggs, if desired.
No. 2 WITH GREEN PEPPERS
8 eggs 2 sweet peppers
3 tablespoons cream 3 tablespoons fat
Salt and pepper
Beat the eggs slightly, adding the cream, salt and pepper.
Heat the fat and add the eggs. As the eggs begin to cook, add
EGG DISHES 363
the* chopped pepper, from which the seeds have been removed.
Cook slowly, stirring constantly, until the mass is creamy. Serve
with toast points.
One-fourth cup of chopped canned pimientos may be sub-
stituted for the pepper. It is often desirable to soften fresh
peppers by placing in hot water for five minutes.
Eggs scrambled in the top of a double boiler will be more
creamy than those cooked in a frying-pan.
PLAIN OMELET
PUFFY
4 eggs Salt and pepper
4 tablespoons hot water Butter or other fat
Beat the egg-whites until stiff. Beat the yolks until thick
and lemon-colored, beat into them the hot water and add salt
and pepper. Cut and fold together the, yolks and stiffly beaten
whites. Melt enough fat in an omelet-pan to grease the bottom
and sides of the pan. Turn the egg mixture into the pan and
cook ove,r a slow fire until it is puffy and a light brown under-
neath, then place in the oven until the top is dry. Touch the
top of the omelet lightly with the finger and if the egg does
not stick to the finger the omelet is done. Do not overcook
it or it will shrink or be tough.
Loosen the edges of the omelet, cut through the center, slip
a spatula or flexible knife under the side next to the handle of
the pan, fold one-half over the other and press slightly to make
it stay in place, slip on to a hot plate and serve at once.
FRENCH
6 eggs 2 tablespoons fat
Salt and pepper
Beat the eggs just enough to mix the whites and yolks, and
add salt and pepper. Heat the fat in an omelet-pan, pour a
little of it into the beaten eggs and allow the remainder to get
hot. Turn the eggs into the pan and as the mixture cooks on
the bottom and sides, prick it with a fork so that the egg on
top will pene.trate the cooked surface, and run under the sides.
The work must be done quickly and carefully so that the eggs
are not all stirred up like scrambled eggs. While the eggs are
still soft, but slightly thickened, fold ovqr, let stand a few
minutes to brown, and turn on to a hot dish.
FOR THE HOLIDAY BREAKFAST,
SLIP YOUR POACHED EGG INTO
A BREAD CROUSTADE THAT
HAS BEEN HALF-FILLED WITH
CHEESE SAUCE, OR DO A FLUFFY
OMELET WITH MUSHROOMS
AND ASPARAGUS
BEAUTY IS NOT ONLY
-IN THE EYE OF THE
BEHOLDER WHEN
THESE EGGS REACH
THE BREAKFAST TABLE g
Institute American
Poultry Industries |
*^L '4
IN ANOTHER FEW MINUTES
YOU CAN WAVE FLvtm EGGS
TO SERVE" WITH THE BACON
THAT IS BROILED FLAT BE-
TWEEN RACKS -.">%
364
VARIATIONS OF PLAIN OMELET
Variations of the plain puffy omelet or the plain French
omelet may be made by adding any of the following ingredients
to the omelet before it is put into the pan to cook, or by
spreading one of them on top just before the omelet is folded.
Allow one tablespoon of mixture to each two eggs used.
Aux FINES HERBES This favorite French omelet is made
by adding a mixture of parsley, thyme and sweet marjoram
to a plain omelet.
CHEESE Scatter grated or ground cheese over the center of
the omejet while it is cooking.
FISH Use any cooked fish. Chop it fine, season with salt
and pepper and moisten with a little cream. Spread on the
omelet before folding.
HAM OR OTHER MEAT Scatter minced cooked meat over the
center of the omelet while it is cooking. The meat may be
browned in a small amount of fat before it is added.
JARDINIERE Stir into the beaten eggs, before cooking, a
mixture of chopped parsley, onion, chives, shallots, and a few
leaves each of sorrel and chervil, minced.
JELLY Spread any jelly or jam over the omelet just before
folding.
ONION Mix one tablespoon chopped onion and one teaspoon
choppe,d parsley. Add to the omelet mixture before cooking.
PARSLEY Scatter minced parsley over the center of the
omelet while it is cooking.
VEGETABLE Use cooked left-over vegetables, one* vegetable
alone or two in combination. Mash the vegetable through a
sieve, moisten with a little milk, cream or gravy, and season
with salt and pepper. Lightly spread the mixture over the
omelet before folding.
CHICKEN OR TONGUE OMELET
1 cup chicken or tongue 1 cup cream or milk
2 tablespoons fat Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons flour Plain omelet
Chop the meat until it is very fine. Make a sauce of the
fat, flour, and milk or cream. Add salt and pepper and chopped
meat. Make a plain omelet and spread the meat mixture on it
jut before folding.
EGG DISHES 365
MUSHROOM OMELET
1 cup mushrooms l / 2 teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon fat 1 tablespoon flour
l /2 cup milk or cream Plain omelet
1 teaspoon salt
Use fresh or canned mushrooms cut into bits. Melt the fat
in a saucepan, add the mushrooms, the milk or cream, salt,
pepper and flour which has been mixed to a paste with a little
cold milk. Cook for five minutes, then set aside until the
omelet is made. Spread the mushroom mixture over the omelet
just before folding.
MUSHROOM AND TOMATO OMELET
3 cups tomatoes Salt and pepper
1 cup mushrooms 6 eggs
2 tablespoons chopped onion l /z cup milk
2 teaspoons sugar
Strain the tomato, add the onion, sugar, salt and pepper and
cook several minutes, then add the mushrooms, sliced very thin.
Make a plain omelet of the eggs and milk. Pour part of the
sauce over the omelet just before folding; fold; place on a hot
plate ; pour the remainder of the sauce around it and serve.
OYSTER OMELET
12 oysters 1 cup cream
l /z tablespoon flour 6 eggs
2 tablespoons fat Salt and pepper
Chop the oysters. Make a sauce of the flour, fat, and cream.
Add the well beaten eggs, season with salt and pepper, stir in
the oysters and cook as a plain omelet.
POTATO OMELET
4 cold boiled potatoes Y 8 teaspoon pepper
3 tablespoons bacon fat 2 eggs
l /2 tablespoon salt 2 tablespoons milk
Cut thej potatoes into tiny cubes and cook in the bacon fat
with the seasonings for five minutes. Beat the eggs slightly
and add the milk, then pour over the potatoes. Cook slowly
until set, fold, and turn on to a hot plate.
366
BAKED CREAMY OMELETS
2 slices bread Salt and pepper
1 cup milk Chopped onion
6 eggs
Crumble the bread and allow it to soak in the milk while the
eggs are being prepared. Beat the eggs until light, add season-
ings and then the bread and milk mixture. Bake quickly
(360 F.) in a well-greased shallow pan and when done roll as
you would a jelly-roll.
LITTLE OMELETS
6 eggs l / 4 teaspoon pepper
l /2 teaspoon salt 1 cup milk
The following is an excellent method of making an omelet
when different members of the family come irregularly to
breakfast, as the mixture, will be perfectly satisfactory after it
has stood for some time, provided it is again beaten thoroughly
just before cooking.
Beat the eggs until light and foamy, then add the other in-
gredients. Fry a small amount at a time on a hot frying-pan
or pancake-griddle that has been well greased. When done^
roll each omelet quickly, like a French pancake, and serve.
SPANISH OMELET
1 medium-sized tomato Olives
1 small green pepper Mushrooms
y 2 onion Salt and pepper
2 sprigs parsley 4 eggs
1 stalk celery
Peel the tomato, add the pepper, onion, parsley, celery, olives,
mushrooms, and chop all together in a chopping-bowl. Place
the mixture in a saucepan, add seasonings and stew for two or
three minutes. Beat the eggs, put them in the omelet-pan and,
as soon as they begin to cook, add the chopped vegetables.
Finish as for plain omelet.
EGG DISHES 3 6 7
TOMATO OMELET
3 tomatoes 4 to 6 eggs
2 tablespoons fat Seasoning
Peel tomatoes, remove the seeds and cut into dice. Saute in
the fat until tender. Make the omelet in the usual way, first
stirring the tomato into the beaten egg.
CUBAN EGGS
6 eggs l /2 teaspoon salt
l /4 cup sausage meat Pepper
1 teaspoon chopped onion
Cook the meat and onion together for five minutes. Beat the
eggs until light, add the seasonings, and pour into the pan with
the meat. Cook slowly, stirring constantly, until the eggs are
thick and creamy. Serve with buttered toast or poured over
slices of toast.
EGGS A LA CARACAS
1 tablespoon fat Salt and pepper
l /4 pound dried beef 4 eggs
1 tablespoon grated cheese Onion-juice
1 cup tomatoes
Melt the fat in a frying-pan and, when hot, add the dried
beef and cheese. Toss lightly until the beef is slightly frizzled,
add the tomatoes, the seasonings, and the eggs beaten until
light. Stir and cook gently until of a creamy consistency.
EGGS A LA SUISSE
6 eggs 1 cup cream
2 tablespoons butter or other Salt
fat Cayenne
l /2 to 1 cup grated cheese
Spread the bottom of a baking-dish with fat. Sprinkle a
layer of grated cheese over it and break the eggs on the cheese,
being careful not to break the yolks. Pour a little cream over
the eggs, then more grated cheese. Season with salt and cayenne,
and bake in a slow oven (250-350 F.) until the eggs are
set, but not hard. Serve in the baking-dish.
368
BAKED EGGS ESPAGNOLE
6 eggs 4 tablespoons fat
3 tablespoons chopped onion % CU P bread-crumbs
3 tablespoons chopped green l /2 cup grated cheese
pepper
Fry onion and pepper in the fat until slightly brown, then
pour into a baking-dish. Break the eggs into the dish, being
careful not to break the yolks. Mix the crumbs with the cheese
and sprinkle over the eggs. Bake in a slow oven (250 -3 50
F.) until the eggs are set, but not hard. Serve in the dish in
which they were baked.
PLANKED EGGS
1 cup minced cooked ham or 6 poached eggs
corned beef Garnish of tomato slices
1 cup crumbs Green-pepper rings
Cream 1 quart mashed potato
Mix the meat with the crumbs and enough cream to make a
paste. Spread the mixture on a heated plank of suitable size.
Around the edge of the plank make a narrow border of mashed
potato and inside the border make six nests of the potato. Slip
a poached egg into each nest and set in the oven until the potato
turns a delicate brown. Garnish with alternate slices of tomato
and green -pepper rings.
EGGS WITH CODFISH
1 cup salt codfish 2 uncooked eggs
4 tablespoons fat Chopped parsley
2 tablespoons flour 3 hard-cooked eggs
2 cups milk
Cover the fish with cold water and soak overnight. Drain,
flake, and saute with the fat for a few minutes; sprinkle with
the flour; add the milk, and cook until smooth. Stir in the
uncooked eggs, slightly beaten, and cook three minutes more.
Serve on a platter garnished with the chopped parsley and the
hard-cooked eggs cut in quarters.
Two additional tablespoons of flour may be substituted for
the uncooked eggs, if desired. For creamed codfish, omit the
hard-cooked eggs.
EGG DISHES 369
EGGS WITH TOMATOES
1 small onion % teaspoon pepper
2 cups tomatoes 6 eggs
1 teaspoon salt Toast
Cut the onion into small pieces and place with the tomato in
a shallow pan. Stew very slowly for ten minutes. Add salt
and pepper, then reduce the heat until the tomato stops bub-
bling. Break the eggs and slip them on top of the tomato, being
careful not to break the yolks. Cook slowly until the whites
of the eggs are set, then prick the yolks and let them mingle
with the tomato and the whites. The mixture should be quite
soft, but the red tomatoes should be quite distinct. Serve at
once on buttered toast.
SPANISH EGGS
1 slice onion 6 eggs
1 tomato 1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon fat % teaspoon pepper
Rub the onion over the inside of a frying-pan. Pare the
tomato and cut it into small pieces. Melt the fat in the fry-
ing-pan, add the tomato and cook for five minutes, stirring it
now and then. Beat the eggs well and add to the tomato, then
add salt and pepper and cook slowly, stirring constantly, until
the eggs thicken like scramble,d eggs. Pour into a hot dish
and serve at once.
APPLE OMELET
5 tart apples Cinnamon or other spice
l /z tablespoon fat 2 eggs
l /2 cup sugar
This is a very delicate dish to serve with broiled spareribs or
roast pork. Cook the apples until very soft, then mash them
and add fat, sugar, eggs and spice. Bake (250 -3 50 F.) in a
shallow pudding-dish or pie-tin until brown.
DEVILED EGGS
COLD ( PICNIC EGGS) Cut hard-cooked eggs in half, either
lengthwise or crosswise. Mash the yolks, season with salt,
pepper, butter, a little mustard and vinegar. Minced potted
370
VX^/NX
ham may be added, or the yolks may be mixed with mayonnaise
dressing. Refill the whites with the mixture; press two halves
together, and wrap each egg in a square of waxed paper.
HOT Omit vinegar, add nuts to the egg mixture, moisten
with evaporated milk and refill whites. Cap with large sauteed
mushrooms. Pack into greased baking dish, caps up, cover with
rich white sauce, then buttered crumbs and brown in 350 oven.
EGG TIMBALES
1 tablespoon fat 3 eggs
1 tablespoon flour Salt and pepper
% cup scalded milk Cayenne
1 tablespoon chopped parsley Celery salt
Make a white sauce of the fat, flour, and milk, and add the
egg-yolks, slightly beaten. Add all the seasonings, then fold
in the stiffly beaten egg-whites. Fill greased baking-dishes two-
thirds full of the mixture. Set dishes in a pan of hot water and
poach in a slow oven (250-350 F.) until firm. Arrange
on a platter and serve with tomato cream sauce.
SAVORY EGGS
6 hot hard-cooked eggs Chopped parsley
Salt and pepper Anchovy paste
l /4 cup hot cream 6 slices hot buttered toast
1 cup hot thin white sauce
Cut the eggs in two lengthwise and remove the yolks. Mash
the yolks, add seasonings, cream, parsley, anchovy or any de-
sired relish, and refill the whites. Place on slices of toast and
pour the white sauce over them.
EGG FARCI
6 hot hard-cooked eggs l / 4 teaspoon pepper
l / 2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon butter
1 1 /2 cups white, Bechamel, 4 tablespoons milk
curry or tomato sauce Onion-juice
Remove the shells from the eggs and cut them in half cross-
wise, then cut an even slice from the end of each half so that
it will stand up in a pan. Remove the yolks, mash, and add the
salt, pepper, butter, milk and a few drops of onion-juice. Mix
thoroughly and heap into the hollow of the whites. Set in a
EGG DISHES 37 1
shallow pan and bake in a slow oven (2 50 -3 50 F.) for about
six minutes, then arrange on a hot dish, and pour over them
any preferred sauce.
EGGS A LA GOLDENROD
6 hard-cooked eggs Salt and pepper
2 cups thin white sauce Paprika
8 slices toast
Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs; chop the
whites very fine, and add to the white sauce, with salt, pepper,
paprika. Arrange six slices of toast on a platter and pour over
them the white sauce mixture. Press the egg-yolks through a
sieve and scatter over the top. Cut the two extra slices of toast
into small triangles, or points, arrange on the platter and garnish
with parsley.
CREAMED EGGS
6 hard-cooked eggs 2 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons fat 2 cups milk
l /2 onion 1 teaspoon salt
6 slices hot buttered toast % teaspoon pepper
Remove the shells from the eggs and cut each egg into six
pieces. Heat the fat in a frying-pan, and cook the chopped
onion with it for a few minutes until yellow, but not brown.
Remove the onion, make a sauce of the fat, flour, liquid and
seasonings. When it thickens, add the eggs, and when they
are well heated, turn the mixture out on to the buttered toast
and serve at once.
SCALLOPED EGGS
Butter Salt and pepper
6 hard-cooked eggs Milk or cream
Crumbs
Grease a baking-dish and place in it a layer of crumbs, then a
layer of slices of hard-cooked eggs. Dot with bits of butter,
sprinkle with salt and pepper, and add another layer of crumbs.
Repeat in this order until the dish is full, having a layer of
buttered crumbs on top. Pour cream or milk over the whole
until it comes about halfway to the top of the dish, and brown
in a moderate oven (350-400 F.).
372
EGG FRICASSEE
tf hard-cooked eggs 3 tablespoons fat
3 cups stock 3 tablespoons flour
Minced parsley 1/4 cup cream
Chopped onion Salt and pepper
Cut the eggs in slices. Make a sauce of the stock, fat, flour
and seasonings. Add the sliced eggs, the cream and salt and
pepper. Mix well and serve very hot.
EGGS AU GRATIN
6 hard-cooked eggs 2 cups medium white sauce,
Salt and pepper or tomato sauce or yellow
Grated cheese sauce
Buttered crumbs
Remove the shells from the eggs and slice them. Arrange
the slices in a greased baking-dish. Season with salt and pepper
and pour the sauce over the top. Sprinkle with grated cheese
and cover with buttered crumbs. Bake in a moderate oven
(350 F.) until the sauce bubbles and the crumbs brown.
EGGS A LA DUCHESSE
1 onion 2 teaspoons chopped parsley
Fat 4 tablespoons grated cheese
1 cup milk Paprika
6 hard-cooked eggs Salt and pepper
2 uncooked egg-yolks l l /z tablespoons lemon-juice
Slice the onion and cook it in a very little fat until brown,
then add to it the milk and the eggs cut in halves. Stir over
the fire for three or four minutes, then add the slightly beaten
egg-yolks, the parsley, cheese and seasonings. Stir over hot
water for about eight minutes, add the lemon- juice and serve
very hot.
PICKLED EGGS
24 cloves l / 2 teaspoon salt
6 hard-cooked eggs l / 2 teaspoon pepper
2 cups vinegar l / 2 teaspoon ground mustard
Shell the eggs and stick four cloves into each egg. Heat the
vinegar and when boiling add the salt, pepper and mustard
EGG DISHES
373
mixed with a little cold vinegar. Put the eggs in a glass fruit-
jar and pour the boiling vinegar over them. Cover and let
stand two weeks before using. Serve with broiled steak.
FLUFFY EGGS
12-18 strips bacon 1/2 teaspoon salt
6 eggs % teaspoon pepper
6 slices toast, square or round 1 cup grated cheese
Butter Paprika
Spread toast with butter and part of grated cheese. Separate
eggs, place whites in mixing bowl and leave each separate yolk
in shell till needed. Season whites and beat until stiff and fluffy.
Heap onto toast and make a dent in center of each. Slip yolk
into center of white, season and sprinkle liberally with cheese.
Bake at 350 F. until cheese is browned and eggs are set. Garnish
with paprika; serve with bacon.
EGGS ROMANOFF
Cut a small section from the pointed end of a hard-cooked
egg. Remove yolk, fill with caviar, and replace the cap. Place
on a slice of tomato on shredded lettuce and surround with
pieces of cold boiled lobster. Serve with Russian dressing, page
449, or Cucumber Cream dressing (below).
EGGS ROBIN HOOD
Split and toast English muffins. Saute circular pieces of boiled
ham and place them on the halves of muffins with slices of
broiled tomato. Arrange on each a poached egg and cover with
cheese sauce.
CUCUMBER CREAM DRESSING
2 tablespoons vinegar 1 cup diced cucumber
2 tablespoons sugar 1 cup heavy cream, whipped
Add vinegar and sugar to cucumbers, fold into cream.
CHEESE
/^HEESE has an important place in the dietary, for it keeps
^^ well, it is a concentrated food, and ordinarily it is an
economical one, at least when compared with other animal foods.
One pound of cheese represents the fat and protein of a gallon
of milk. It is one form in which a surplus of milk may be
stored satisfactorily and cheaply.
In spite of this, many persons do not use cheese as frequently
as they should. In large measure, this is because the following
facts about cheese are not generally known:
That cheese is a very concentrated food and therefore should
be eaten in small amounts and should be associated at the same
meal with bulky foods such as fruits and vegetables.
That whole-milk cheese is very rich in fat and therefore other
fats at the meal should be limited in amount.
That cheese is soft in texture and should be associated with
something having tough, "chewy" or crisp texture.
That cheese should take the place of meat or eggs and not be
used merely as an addition to a meal already hea^vy with protein
and fat.
Varieties of Cheese
There is a cheese for every taste. The housekeeper should
know the ways in which various kinds of cheese are used and
choose the variety best suited to the need of the moment. The
intensity of flavor desirable in a cheese depends, among other
things, on the food with which it will be served. Roque-
fort, Gorgonzola, Limburger and related types will satisfy many
people better than the milder cheeses. Strong, old Cheddar
cheese may be served with ginger snaps. From the chemist's
standpoint, there is no basis for the statement often made that
the highly flavored cheeses of strong odor have undergone
putrefactive decomposition.
CHEDDAR, AMERICAN, OR STANDARD FACTORY CHEESE is the most
common cheese in use. It is a hard cheese and varies greatly in. flavor
and texture. It may be white or yellow, old or fresh. A mild cheese
is green and not cured; a strong cheese is old and cured. A Cheddar
cheese should have a smooth texture and be plastic enough to slice
374
CHEESE 375
well. Mold on the outside is no indication of the quality of the
cheese. Cheddar cheese is useful in general cooking. Unless made
into special dishes like cheese wafers, it is not so good to serve with
salads as some cheese of more distinctive flavor. In recipes which
call for cheese, without specifying the kind, Cheddar cheese is the
variety meant.
LONG HORN, YOUNG AMERICA, DAISY and FLAT are Cheddar
cheeses of varying shapes and sizes.
CALIFORNIA JACK is the Cheddar cheese of California.
BRIE is a soft cheese, ripened by molds from the outside. The
cheeses have a red coloration on the surface and vary in size from six
to fifteen inches in diameter and from two to three inches in height.
The largest weighs from five to six pounds. The interior varies in
consistency from waxy to semi-liquid and has a very pronounced odor
and a sharp characteristic taste. The cheese is dipped out of the
container with a spoon. It is used as a dessert with coffee and wafers
or it may be added to salad dressing.
CACIOCAVALLO is a hard Italian cheese shaped something like a
gourd and weighing three to five pounds. It is white in color and
is so hard that it is necessary to grate it. It is served in small dishes
to be sprinkled in soup, spaghetti, etc. It is also added to these
dishes, during the cooking.
CAMEMBERT is a soft cheese, ripened by molds from the outside, so
it belongs to the same group as Brie. It has a felt-like rind, one-
sixteenth to one-eighth inch in thickness, composed of molds and
dried cheese. A typical cheese is about four and one-quarter inches
in diameter and three-quarters to one inch in thickness. It is sold
wrapped in paper and enclosed in a wooden box of the same shape.
Well-ripened cheeses vary from nearly fluid to the consistency of
moderately soft butter. It is dipped out of the container with a
spoon. It has a strong odor and flavor and is used in the same way as
Brie. The entire cheese is eaten by those who like a moldy cheese.
CHESHIRE is the English Cheddar cheese. It is yellow, grainy,
highly colored and highly salted and often more highly flavored than
American Cheddar. It is used practically in the same ways as Ameri-
can Cheddar cheese.
CREAM CHEESE. See Neufchatel.
CLUB CHEESE is usually made from strong, well-ripened Cheddar
cheese which is ground and mixed with butter and condiments. It
spreads easily, and therefore is often used in sandwiches.
EDAM is a hard cheese. It is put on the market in the form of
red balls, weighing from three to four-and-one-half pounds, wrapped
in tin-foil. Its texture is solid, close and free from pores. It is
rather dry and crumbly. It is mild in flavor and pleasantly saline.
It is usual; in this country to cut off a section of the top to serve
376
^/\/xr
as a lid, and to scoop out the inside as it is needed. It is served with
salads, with crackers, with pie, etc. The cheese may be set in a silver
holder or wrapped in a folded napkin on a plate. It is seldom cooked
but often thrifty housewives, after the greater part of the cheese has
been removed, stuff the hollow shell with cooked and seasoned maca-
roni, rice, or something similar and bake it. Edam cheese may be used
in rarebit.
GORGONZOLA is a semi-hard cheese, resembling Roquefort in that it
is streaked throughout with a blue-green mold. The surface is
heavily coated with a substance resembling clay. The cheeses are
cylindrical in shape, about twelve inches in diameter and six inches
in height. It may be crumbly or waxy in texture, and has a flavor
resembling that of Roquefort. It is usually served uncooked as des-
sert, with wafers and coffee, or in salads, or it may be added to the
salad dressing.
LIEDERKRANZ is a small Limburger cheese.
LIMBURGER is a hard cheese. It is wrapped in waxed paper and then
in tin-foil. Each cheese weighs about two pounds. It has a very
strong and characteristic odor and taste. The odor, which is disagree-
able to some people, may be decreased by removing the rind and ex-
posing the cheese to the air before bringing it to the table. Because of
its strong flavor, it is always served uncooked, in sandwiches, with pie,
or with wafers and coffee.
NEUFCHATEL and cream cheese are very similar, Neufchatel being
made from milk containing four per cent, fat and cream cheese from
milk containing six per cent. fat. Neufchatel cheese has a clean,
sour-milk or lactic-acid flavor. In texture, it is smooth and free from
holes. It is served with crackers or in salads and in sandwiches.
PARMESAN is a hard cheese, known in Italy as "Grana" because of
its granular appearance when broken. The hardness of the cheese
makes cutting it practically impossible. It has small holes or eyes.
It is used in cooking, principally. It is grated and added to soup,
macaroni, spaghetti and similar dishes.
PIMIENTO CHEESE is a cream, Neufchatel or ground Cheddar
cheese to which pimientos have been added. It is used chiefly for
sandwiches.
PINEAPPLE CHEESE is an old, very hard Cheddar cheese. It gets
its name from its shape. It is bright yellow and vanished on
the surface. It is so hard that it is necessary to grate it. It has a
stronger flavor than ordinary Cheddar cheese but is used in practically
the same way.
PROVOLONA is a very hard Italian cheese resembling Caciocavallo,
the main difference being in the shape. It is used in the same way.
ROQUEFORT is a semi-hard cheese made from goat's milk. It is
ripened by a green mold which gives it a mottled appearance through-
CHEESE 377
out. It is found on the market in cylindrical form about seven and
one-quarter inches in diameter and three and one-quarter inches thick,
also in rectangular form and in small wedge-shaped portions. The
pieces are without a definite rind and are wrapped in tin-foil. They
must be kept cold. Roquefort has a strong odor and taste and is best
served with highly flavored foods. It may be served in salads or with
wafers and coffee.
RICOTTE is a very hard Italian cheese. It is similar to Caciocavallo
and Provolona, except in shape and in being made from albumen whey
instead of milk, and is served the same way.
STILTON is a semi-hard cheese having a very characteristic wrinkled
or ridged skin or ring. When cut, it shows blue or green portions of
mold which give it its characteristic piquant flavor. It belongs to the
Roquefort group. It is served as Roquefort is, in salads or as dessert
with wafers and coffee, or with pie.
Swiss CHEESE is variously known as Gruyere, Emmenthal, Sweitzer
and true Switzerland. The peculiar Swiss-cheese flavor is often called
a hazel-nut taste. It is a trifle sweet and very tempting. The typical
Switzerland cheese has evenly distributed eyes or holes about the size
of a cherry, with a dull shine on the inner lining, but the cheese is now
packed in small cakes without rind and without holes. The imported
Switzerland is yellow in color; the American Swiss is white. Switzer-
land cheese may be cooked, but is often served in sandwiches or as
dessert with pie or with wafers and coffee.
WELSH RAREBIT
1 tablespoon fat % teaspoon mustard
1 tablespoon flour % to 1 pound of cheese
1 cup milk (according to richness de-
1/2 teaspoon salt sired) shaved or cut fine
Few grains pepper 6 slices buttered toast
Make a white sauce, in the top of a double boiler, of the first
six ingredients, mixing the mustard with the other dry in-
gredients. Set the top part of the boiler over hot but not boil-
ing water. Add the cheese, cook and stir until it is melted.
Serve on hot toasted bread or on saltines. One-half cup chopped
olives may be added. This dish may be varied by adding one
or two slightly beaten eggs just after the cheese has melted
and continuing the cooking until the egg has thickened the
mixture.
378
MEXICAN RAREBIT
l /2 tablespoon fat % teaspoon salt
l /2 green pepper l /2 cup canned tomatoes
2 cups grated cheese l / 2 cup bread-crumbs
1 egg 6 slices buttered toast
1 cup canned corn
Melt the fat in the top of the double boiler over direct
heat. Add the chopped pepper and cook until slightly softened,
but not browned. Set over hot water, add the cheese and stir
constantly until the cheese is melted. Mix beaten egg, salt
and corn and stir into the cheese mixture ; then add the chopped
tomatoes and crumbs. Allow the mixture to heat through and
serve on toasted bread.
POACHED EGG TOMATO RAREBIT
2 cups tomatoes 1 cup grated cheese
l /4 teaspoon soda 6 eggs
1 teaspoon salt 6 slices toast
l /4 teaspoon pepper % teaspoon paprika
2 tablespoons flour Parsley
Mix tomatoes, soda and seasonings and stew for about five
minutes; then strain and thicken with the flour, mixed to a
paste with a little cold water. Add the cheese and stir until
smooth. Poach the eggs and place on the toast on a platter.
Pour the sauce around the eggs. Sprinkle with the paprika
and garnish with parsley.
CHEESE FONDUE
ON TOAST
1 cup grated cheese Paprika
3 tablespoons melted fat 6 eggs
l /z teaspoon salt 6 slices toasted bread
Mix the grated cheese with the fat and add salt and paprika.
Beat the eggs until light, add to the cheese mixture, pour into
a saucepan, set the pan in another pan of boiling water and
cook, stirring constantly, until the cheese is smooth and creamy.
Lay the toast on a hot plate, pour the fondue over it and serve
at once.
CHEESE IN ANY FORM IS THE
GOURMET'S DELIGHT WHETHER
ON A SERVICE TRAY OR IN
TANGY WELSH RAREBIT
fctoJ&r'
' - ' % l%i;i ; j
CHEESE
BAKED
1 cup grated cheese % teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons fat 3 eggs
1 cup milk Cayenne
1 cup soft bread-crumbs
or 1 cup cooked rice or
other cereal
Scald the milk and pour it over the crumbs or cereal, then add
the fat, the cheese and seasonings. Beat the egg-yolks slightly
and add to the mixture, then fold in the stiffly beaten whites
and turn the mixture into a greased baking-dish. Set in a pan
of water and bake in a moderate oven (375 F.) until firm
on top.
CHEESE SOUFFLE
1 cup cheese 3 tablespoons fat
3 eggs l / 2 teaspoon salt
1 cup milk Pepper
3 tablespoons flour
Make a white sauce of milk, flour, fat and seasonings. Add
the cheese and beaten egg-yolks and stir until the cheese has
melted and the yolks are set. Fold in stiffly beaten egg-whites.
Pour into a greased dish, or individual molds, and set in a pan
of hot water. Bake in a moderate oven (350 F.) 45 to 50
minutes, or until the egg white is set. Serve at once. It begins
to fall as soon as removed from oven.
The cheese souffle may be baked in ramekin dishes and served
as a cheese course for dinner.
EGG AND CHEESE TIMBALES
e gg s 1 tablespoon chopped green
pepper
y 8 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon salt
e gg s
1 cup milk (warmed)
l /2 cup grated cheese
Beat the eggs very light and add to them the warm milk, the
grated cheese, pepper, paprika and salt. Grease small timbale-
molds, fill with the mixture, set in a baking-pan of boiling
water and bake in a slow oven (250 -3 25 F.) until the egg is
set. Turn out carefully on a hot platter. Serve at once, as they
soon fall. They may be served with tomato or pimiento sauce.
LUNCHEON CHEESE AND EGGS
1 cup cream 2 tablespoons grated cheese
6 eggs Salt and pepper
Put the cream into a frying-pan and let it heat to the boiling-
point, then break in, carefully, the eggs. Lower the heat under
the eggs and cook until they are set, as in poaching, spooning
the cream over the top of the eggs while they are cooking. Put
them on a hot platter. To the cream left in the frying-pan,
add the grated cheese and seasonings. Stir until melted and pour
the mixture over the eggs.
POLENTA WITH CHEESE
1 cup corn-meal 1 teaspoon salt
4 cups boiling water l /z cup grated cheese
Pour one cup of boiling water over the corn-meal and let it
stand until it swells, then add the remainder of the water, with
the salt, and cook over the direct flame for five minutes, stirring
constantly. Turn it into a double boiler or fireless cooker and
cook two hours; or into a greased baking-dish and bake in a
slow oven (250-350 F.) for two hours. Just before taking
it from the fire, add the cheese and cook until it melts.
CHEESE CROQUETTES
5/2 cup soft cheese 1 egg-white
2 tablespoons fat 54 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons flour 5/4 teaspoon paprika
5/2 cup milk Crumbs
2 egg-yolks
Make a white sauce, using the fat, flour and milk. Add tHe
slightly beaten egg-yolks, the cheese cut in small bits, and the
seasonings. Stir until the cheese is melted. Allow the mix-
ture to cool* then shape, roll in crumbs, then in the egg-white^
which has been diluted with one tablespoon of water, then in
crumbs again and fry in deep fat (375-390 F.).
CHEESE 381
CHEESE CUTLETS
% cup grated cheese 1 cup cooked Lima or navy
2 cups mashed potatoes beans, ground
4 tablespoons minced pimiento 1 teaspoon salt
Combine ingredients and shape the mixture into cutlets about
one-half inch thick. Saute them in a small amount of hot fat
and serve with horseradish sauce.
CHEESE BALLS
3 egg-whitjes Salt
1 tablespoon flour Cayenne
1 l /2 cups grated cheese Crumbs
Beat the egg-whites until very stiff, fold in carefully the
flour, cheese and seasonings. Shape the mixture into small balls,
roll in fine crumbs and fry in deep fat (375-390 F.). Serve
with soup or salad.
BAKED RICE AND CHEESE
3 cups cooked rice 1 cup milk
2 cups cheese 2 tablespoons butter
l /2 teaspoon salt Crumbs
Cayenne
Put a layer of cooked rice in a greased baking-dish, cover
with a layer of grated cheese, season with salt and cayenne.
Continue adding layers until the dish is almost full. Add
enough milk to come half-way to the top of the rice. Cover
with crumbs, dot with butter and bake in a moderate oven
(350-400 F.) fifteen to thirty minutes.
CHEESE WAFERS
Spread grated cheese on thin crackers, season with a bit of
paprika and heat in a quick oven until the cheese is melted.
Serve with soup or salad. Thin slices of toasted bread may be
used instead of the crackers.
CHEESE STICKS OR STRAWS
Use any left-over plain or puff paste. Roll out to one-quarter
inch in thickness, sprinkle one-half of it with grated cheese.
3 82
.X^^V^-N^
Fold over the other half and roll out again. Sprinkle with
cheese and proceed as before; repeat three times. Cut into
very narrow strips and bake for ten minutes on the top shelf
of a very hot oven (500 F.).
CHEESE BISCUITS
cup grated cheese Cayenne
cup flour 1 egg-yolk
cup shortening
Mix the cheese and flour, then cut the shortening into this
mixture; add a little cayenne pepper and moisten with the yolk
of the egg. Roll out to one-fourth inch thick, cut into long,
narrow strips and bake in a very hot oven (500 F.) five to
seven minutes.
If you prefer use the ordinary recipe for baking-powder
biscuits, making the biscuits in two layers and sprinkling grated
cheese between the layers.
CHEESE TORTE
2 cups fine zwieback iy 2 teaspoons grated
crumbs lemon rind
iy 2 cups sugar 1 cup cream
1 teaspoon cinnamon iy 2 pounds cottage
y 2 cup melted butter cheese
or margarine 4 tablespoons flour
4 eggs y 4 cup chopped nut
y 8 teaspoon salt meats
iy> teaspoons lemon juice
Mix zwieback with l /2 cup sugar, cinnamon and butter or
margarine. Set aside % cup to sprinkle over top, press remain-
der of crumbs into a 9 -inch spring form pan, lining bottom
and sides. Beat eggs with remaining 1 cup sugar, until light;
add salt, lemon juice and rind, cream, cheese and flour, beat
thoroughly and strain through a fine sieve. Pour into lined
pan, sprinkle with remaining crumbs and nut meats. Bake in
a moderate oven (350 F.) about 1 hour or until center is
"set". Turn off heat, open oven door, let stand in oven 1 hour
or until cooled. Serves 10 to 12.
VEGETABLES
RDOTS, stems, leaves, buds, seeds and fruits of plants used
as food are called vegetables. They classify as follows:
ROOTS Beets, carrots, parsnips, turnips, salsify, radishes,
horseradish, rutabagas, celeriac, sweet potatoes, yams, cassava.
STEMS Enlarged underground stems called tubers: Irish
potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes, dasheen or taro, yautia,
kohlrabi, fennel.
STEM AND BUD Asparagus.
BULBS Onions (green, called scallions), leek, garlic, shallot.
LEAF STALKS Celery, rhubarb.
LEAVES Lettuce, endive, spinach, romaine, watercress,
chard, chives, chicory, tops of beets, turnips, dandelion, fennel,
mustard, dill, and parsley, escarole, Chinese cabbage, collards,
kale.
BUDS Cabbage (terminal), Brussels sprouts (axillary).
FLOWERING HEADS Cauliflower, French artichoke, broccoli.
FRUIT Cucumbers, squash, eggplant, peppers, okra, pump-
kin, tomatoes, string beans, green peas, green corn, vegetable
marrow, zucchini, chayote, Lima beans.
SEEDS Peas, beans, lentils, corn, rice, Lima beans, soybeans,
grains, cereals.
FUNGI Mushrooms, truffles.
Selection of Vegetables
Buy vegetables in their season. Many vegetables are in the
market the year round, and modern agriculture has greatly
extended the season for many others but some, when out of
season, lack flavor and freshness.
Vegetables should be fresh, firm (not hard), and ripe. Do
not buy vegetables that are old, withered, moldy or bruised,
underripe or overripe; there is no saving in cost from purchas-
ing such vegetables. Head vegetables should be solid, with
few waste leaves. Cauliflower should be white and firm, with
no blemishes. Leafy vegetables should not be wilted. Peas and
beans should have crisp pods. Buy vegetables of medium size
and regular shape.
384
-'v
Buy only the amount of summer vegetables you can use
immediately, because they deteriorate in quality very quickly
and are best when cooked soon after gathering.
Winter vegetables may be bought in larger amounts if there
is a suitable dry, cool place for storage.
Get acquainted with vegetables that you or your family have
never eaten. For the first time buy only enough for your own
lunch and cook them after your favorite method. If that is
successful, try them on the family. If not, try again with an-
other recipe, until you find one you think they will like.
Care of Vegetables
SUMMER VEGETABLES If these are not to be cooked at once,
they should be put in the refrigerator or some other cool dry
place. Peas and corn, especially, should be cooked soon after
they are gathered, because they lose their sweetness on standing.
Lettuce should be sprinkled and wrapped in a heavy cloth or
paper, and put into the refrigerator until it is used. Salad
greens keep a week or more in mechanically cooled refrigerators
if they are washed and placed in closely covered enamel or
porcelain containers after being well drained. Cloths or paper
wrappings dry out too quickly in mechanically cooled
refrigerators.
Cut the stems of wilted vegetables and plunge into cold water
to freshen.
WINTER VEGETABLES These should be in good condition,
firm and uninjured and stored in a dry, cool, well ventilated
place. Most of them keep better if they are piled up so that
the air is excluded. Squash, however, keep better if they are
spread out so that they do not touch one another. Squash and
sweet potatoes require a warmer place than other vegetables.
Vegetables cannot be kept successfully in an unpartitioned cellar
containing a furnace. Vegetables should not be overripe when
stored, but should be nearly mature. Parsnips improve in
flavor if they are allowed to freeze before they are stored. They
should be watched carefully and if they show signs of spoiling,
should be used at once or removed from the other vegetables.
VEGETABLES
385
Preparation of Vegetables for Cooking
Wash all vegetables before cooking, even though they look
clean. A vegetable brush is almost a necessity. Soak wilted
vegetables before peeling them. Vegetables that are soaked
after they are peeled lose some soluble food materials. Dry
winter vegetables may be improved by soaking them for several
hours. Scrape thin-skinned vegetables; pare thick-skinned
vegetables or remove the skin after cooking. Make thin par-
ings except in the case of turnips, from which a thick layer of
corky material should be removed. Discard decayed vegetables.
Many vegetables, particularly of the bud, head and fruit
groups, need to be immersed for a period in cold salt water.
This freshens the fiber and drives out any insects that have
taken refuge in crevices. Leaf vegetables need to be washed
in several waters, the first of which should be salted for the
same reason. The leaves should be lifted out of the water rather
than the water poured off. This permits any sand to sink to
the bottom of the pan. A tablespoon of liquid ammonia added
to the last gallon of wash water will remove the last film that
carries an earthy flavor.
What Vegetables Provide
The appreciation of vegetables as food has greatly increased
in recent years with an extended understanding of their
peculiar values. The modern woman realizes that these values,
having been paid for at the market, must be retained in the
preparation, if her family is to benefit by her intelligent pur-
chases. Vegetables are one of the three groups of food that
protect growth and vitality and preserve the characteristics
of youth, the others being milk and fruits. The importance of
these protective foods may be realized by the fact that scientists
have found an astonishing relation between the early onset of
old age and the food habits of persons involved. The modern
woman knows that vegetables provide not only starches and
sugars for energy, as well as several forms of protein, but what
is most important they provide impressive amounts of Vitamins
A, B, C, E, and G, in addition to mineral salts. (See pages 39
386
^v^w.
to 44.) These mineral salts are especially Calcium, Phosphorus,
Iron, Copper, Manganese, and Sulphur, as well as Iodine, in
vegetables grown along the seashore. Besides all this, she knows
that the generous use of many vegetables helps to keep up the
body's normal alkaline balance which contributes so very largely
to sound health and vitality.
Cooking to Retain These Values
Many vegetables can be and are eaten uncooked with all
their values intact. But many more need to be cooked before
they can be served. Preparation by cooking should result in
the least possible loss while it enhances values not otherwise
available. For this reason cooking should:
1. Swell and burst the starch cell so that the center is softened and made
digestible.
2. Sterilize the vegetable thoroughly.
3. Break up tough fiber so it is edible and digestible.
4. Release food proteins and minerals from their fiber cells.
5. Provide hot food.
6. Increase many flavors and some colors.
BAKING is the best method to secure all these results and still
preserve Vitamins and minerals. Dry baking in their skins,
generally used for potatoes, sweet potatoes, squash, turnips,
carrots, onions, and parsnips, is a simple method whereby the
vegetable is packed in a pan or laid on the rack of a hot oven
to remain until just tender when pierced with a sharp fork.
Baking, however, also includes the roasting of whole vegetables
with meat, gravy, or fat, especially when potatoes or sweet
potatoes are scraped, thus preserving mineral values just under
the skin.
Au GRATIN AND SCALLOPING are other forms of baking,
especially when fresh vegetables are used. In the latter method,
layers of the vegetable are alternated in a baking dish or ring
mold with white sauce, cream or milk, and seasonings, and in
the former method a covering of buttered bread crumbs or
buttered crumbs and cheese is added. Leftover cooked
vegetables may be prepared by these methods also, but the
Vitamin and mineral value will be determined by the first cook-
ing. Only baking in the jacket will insure the preservation of
the Vitamins.
VEGETABLES 387
BROILING is the exposure to direct heat and can be used for
some vegetables. The minerals will be less injured than the
Vitamins, for the high heat destroys most of the latter.
DEEP FAT FRYING, next to baking, is another satisfactory
way to retain most of the food values. The vegetable is sliced
or cut into convenient form, dipped in egg and crumbs or
batter, and immersed in enough very hot fat to cover well.
This permits quick cooking with little loss.
In SAUTEING, the shredded or broken vegetable is turned
into a shallow pan or skillet in which a small amount of fat
has been heated. Cooking takes longer and more fat is absorbed
by the food, hence, for many persons the process is not
advisable.
BOILING does the most damage to fresh vegetables, yet it is
used most frequently by the largest number of homemakers.
Although there are methods that reduce the losses to a minimum,
the modern woman will remember that boiling is to be used
least often, and always to be overbalanced by the better methods.
Most of the mineral salts occurring in vegetables are easily dis-
solved in water and the loss of Vitamins during boiling takes
place in several ways. They may be destroyed by overheating,
by prolonged exposure to the air, and by dissolving out in the
cooking water. When this is drained off and discarded, the
principal food values gained by the intelligent buying of
vegetables has been thrown away. In every case only the small-
est possible amount of water should be used and it should be
boiling rapidly when the vegetables are dropped in. They
should be cooked only until just tender, and by this time
most of the water has been evaporated. Greens such as spinach,
chard, and dandelions need only the water that clings to the
leaves. They go into a cold pot with the heat turned on after
the vegetable is in the kettle.
To BOIL VEGETABLES THE PROPER WAY, four methods must
be taken into account:
1. The green vegetables are best cooked in water that is slightly alkaline.
If there is any doubt, add a bit of baking soda the size of a pinhead.
No drinking water would be acid enough to need more. Use an un-
covered kettle and cook only until tender to the fork. If overcooked,
green vegetables turn brownish because of chemical changes in the
coloring matter, the fine flavor is ruined, while food values are lost.
2. White fresh vegetables such as cabbage, cauliflower, and onion are
strong flavored, due to their special oils. Hard water changes these oils
so that the white color turns to yellow or brown. To prevent this, add
1 teaspoon of lemon juice or white vinegar. Drop the vegetable into
enough rapidly boiling water to cover and cook with the kettle uncovered
until just tender to the fork. Add the drained water, if any, to your
soup stock.
3. The red color in vegetables is produced by acid and needs to be kept
that way. Tomatoes usually have enough acid of their own to keep the
color, but beets and red cabbage need a teaspoon of lemon juice or
white vinegar. Cook in a small amount of water in a covered kettle.
4. Yellow vegetables are among the most valuable and stable. That rich
yellow color is not only beauty but actually the foundation of Vitamin
A. Not much damage can be done to it although the minerals and other
Vitamins can still be destroyed if the vegetable is carelessly handled.
In general, the destruction of Vitamins is reduced when
vegetables are boiled at high temperatures for the shortest pos-
sible time, in the smallest possible amount of water. Then the
minerals, too, will be saved.
STEAMING as a method of cooking vegetables is valuable for
those that can stand a high temperature for a long period, or
those that are cooked in the meat pot so that the extracted
minerals and Vitamins are used in the gravy. It is particularly
good for dried and starchy ones. The long, slow process gives
the starch cell time to swell and gelatinize. It is most valuable
at high altitudes, because the extra pressure keeps the steam at
212 F. or more, while in the open-air cooking the high altitude
reduces the boiling point below 212 F.
WATERLESS COOKING of fresh vegetables is any process in
which no water is added. The water in the vegetable itself does
the cooking. A thick-walled kettle with a tight-fitting lid is
the necessary equipment. Very low heat is used, and the
vegetable is tender in a very short time because neither heat nor
steam escapes. No minerals are lost and the loss of Vitamins is
almost as low as in baking.
All cooking of vegetables reduces the Vitamin C content,
although tomatoes and the baked potato manage to retain
most of theirs. To insure an adequate daily supply of Vitamin
C, the modern woman never loses sight of the fact that some
fresh fruits and vegetables must be served every day.
ARTICHOKES
The FRENCH artichoke is boiled in salted water, served hot
with brown butter or Hollandaise sauce, or cold with mayon-
VEGETABLES 389
naise. The spiny choke below the leaves and above the heart
must be discarded. The JERUSALEM artichoke is washed, pared,
boiled like a potato and dressed with seasoning, melted butter
and minced parsley.
ASPARAGUS
Trim off hard stalks and scales to the head. Tie in bunches,
stand upright in boiling salted water. After 10 minutes turn
into loaf pan and continue with heat under the stems. Serve
with browned butter or Hollandaise.
BOSTON BAKED BEANS
No. 1.
1 pint pea beans y 2 teaspoon salt
1 small onion y 2 teaspoon dry mustard
y 8 pound salt pork, part fat 2 tablespoons molasses
Soak beans in cold water overnight. In the morning drain
and turn into a bean-pot; or simmer until skins begin to burst,
but not long enough to be mushy, then turn into the bean-pot.
Pour boiling water over salt pork. Scrape the rind until white,
score in half-inch strips, and bury meat in beans, leaving only
the rind exposed. Mix salt, mustard and molasses in a cup, fill
with hot water, stir until well mixed, and pour over the pork
and beans. Add water to cover, and bake in a 250-350 F.
oven six to eight hours, adding more water to cover until the
last hour, when pot cover is removed and pork raised to the
surface to crisp.
Use corned beef instead of pork, or omit meat and use more
salt, with one-third cup of fat.
No. 2 QUICK METHOD Use same ingredients as in pre-
vious recipe. Do not soak the beans overnight. Place them
over the fire, cover them with cold water, and slowly bring
the water to a boil, then set the kettle where the beans will
simmer, but will at no time boil vigorously. When they have
cooked in this way for fifteen minutes, drain and add fresh
boiling water. Add salt pork to the kettle and simmer until
the beans may be pierced with a straw. Turn the beans into
a colander to drain; put into bean-pot, season and bake as di-
rected above.
390
SOY-BEANS
Of the many varieties of soy-beans grown in this country,
the yellow variety is the most popular for cooking purposes,
though the black and green beans are used, and are particularly
good in soup. Soy-beans require longer cooking than white
beans, but the length of time required is lessened if the beans
are soaked for twelve hours before cooking.
BAKED SOY-BEANS
2 cups yellow soy-beans 2 tablespoons molasses
1 tablespoon salt 1 teaspoon mustard
1 small onion % pound fat salt pork
Soak the beans for twelve hours, then heat to boiling and
simmer until tender. Unless the beans are tender before they
are baked, they will not be good. Prepare as directed for
"Baked Beans." Eight to ten hours will be required to bake
them.
BOILED LIMA BEANS
1 quart green Lima beans or 1 tablespoon fat
2 cups dried Lima beans 1 cup milk or cream if
Salt and pepper desired
If the green beans are used, put them into just enough boil-
ing water to cover, and boil slowly until tender. Salt the water
just before cooking is completed. Add fat and salt and pepper
to taste. If desired, a cup of milk or cream may be added and
the beans allowed to simmer in it for a moment.
If dried beans are used they may be soaked twelve hours
in plenty of cold water, and boiled in the same water with one-
eighth teaspoon of soda added for each quart of water; or
the process may be hastened by soaking them for one hour and
simmering them for two hours. If they are not soaked at all,
they can be made tender by simmering for two and one-half
hours. The water should be drained off before the milk or
cream is added.
STRING BEANS
1 quart string beans Salt and pepper Butter
Wash beans, string and snap or cut into short pieces. Cover
with least possible amount of boiling water and cook gently
/ pHE YOUR PUNGENT VEGETABLES SNUGLY INTd
IF VEGETABLE PARCHMENT BEFORE PLUNCIN|
4 Itlr*--. INTO BOILING WATER. IT KEEPS THE HOUSt
'i*^' SMELLING SWEET
mm
;OVER WHITE VEGETABLES
CLOSELY A SMALL AMOUNT Of
WATER AND PIECE OF BUTTER
COOK THEM INJHEIR OWN STEAM
POTATOES KEEP HOT
WHILE WHIPPING IF
YOU CARRY THE BEAT-
ER TO THEM
ARTICHOKES WITH
HOLLANDAISE SAUCE
ARE WORKS OF ART
TENDER GREEN AS-
PAR AG US WITH
GOLDEN CHEESE
SAUCE LOOKS GOOD
ENOUGH TO EAT
AND IS!
VEGETABLES 391
until tender. Salt the water just before cooking is completed.
"When done, drain and season with butter, salt and pepper.
If the flavor of salt pork is liked cut slice of salt pork into
small pieces and fry until brown, then add one tablespoon flour,
one cup hot water, and the beans. Simmer for a few minutes
and serve hot.
BOILED BEETS
Wash the beets thoroughly and remove the leaves, being very
careful not to break off the little fibers and rootlets which re-
tain the juices and coloring matter. Use plenty of water in
cooking. If the beets are tough and withered, soak them for
twenty- four hours in plenty of cold water before beginning to
cook them.
Try with a fork, and when they are tender drop them into
a pan of cold water and slip off the skins with the hands. If
small, serve whole. If large, slice those to be used immediately,
place in a dish and season with salt, pepper, and butter or savory
fat. A teaspoon of sugar may be added also if the beets are not
naturally sweet enough. Set them over boiling water to heat
thoroughly and serve hot, with or without vinegar. Cold beets
left over may be covered with vinegar and used as pickles.
BEET GREENS
Carefully wash and clean young beets, leaving roots and tops
together. Put them into a kettle with very little boiling water
and allow them to cook until just tender. Salt the water just
before cooking is completed. Drain as dry as possible, in a col-
ander. Chop, if desired. Serve hot with vinegar or with butter,
salt and pepper.
BROCCOLI
Broccoli is a variety of cauliflower that is green instead
of white. It was very popular in Colonial gardens and con-
tinued to be grown and sold along the east coast but gained
popularity very slowly among native Americans. Within the last
ten years growers on the west coast have promoted it and it is
now as popular and often more abundant and lower priced than
cauliflower. Shipped in ice from early cuttings, even the largest
stalks are often tender. Choose heads and leaves that are bright
green and crisp. Cut off only such portions of the stalk as are
392
NX^^Vrf
too hard and tough to admit the knife. Wash under running
water and refrigerate, if not to be used at once. When ready
to cook, use a deep kettle just large enough for the head or heads
and bring salted water to a rapid boil. Insert carefully, stem
end down, leave uncovered and when the water stops boiling
add soda the size of a small pea to the water around the stems.
The heads should not be submerged. When water boils up
again they will cook more slowly than the stems and both will
be tender in 15-25 minutes. If the heads are under water, they
cook so much more rapidly that they will be mushy before the
stems are tender. Broccoli heads, stems and leaves are valuable
sources of vitamins A and G, as well as iron and calcium.
Serve with brown butter sauce, brown butter and crumbs,
Hollandaise sauce or au gratin. Broccoli can be used instead
of spinach for cream soup, especially when the green color
is wanted.
BRUSSELS SPROUTS
Pick off the dead leaves from the sprouts, soak the sprouts
in cold salted water for one-half hour, wash them and put
them on the fire in plenty of boiling water. Boil in an un-
covered saucepan until tender. Just before they are done,
salt the water. Drain in a colander. Reheat; season with salt
and pepper, and serve with cream sauce or melted butter.
BOILED CABBAGE
Cut the cabbage into desired shapes. Place it in a kettle with
a generous amount of water. Cook uncovered until just tender.
Add salt to the water just before cooking is completed. Drain,
add butter or bacon fat, salt and pepper.
A little milk or cream may be added or it may be creamed or
scalloped or served au gratin.
SCALLOPED CABBAGE WITH CHEESE
1 small head cabbage 1 1 / 2 cups medium white sauce
2 cups grated cheese Yz to 3 / 4 cup bread-crumbs
Cook the cabbage as directed for boiled cabbage. Into a
greased baking-dish, put a layer of cabbage, then a layer of
cheese, then a layer of white sauce, and continue to add layers
[VEGETABLES 393
until the ingredients are all used. Cover the top of the mixture
with the crumbs, which may be mixed with a little melted but-
ter, and bake in a moderate oven (3 50 -400 F.) for about
twenty minutes, or until the crumbs are brown.
CARROTS, TOASTED
To serve carrots as a separate vegetable, scrape and wash;
leave young carrots whole and cut old carrots in slices length-
wise or crosswise. Boil them until tender (15-30 minutes) in
water containing one teaspoon sugar. Just before cooking is
completed, salt the water. Drain, add butter, and seasoning or
roll in butter, then in corn flakes and brown in oven at 350 F.
No 1 CARROTS AND PEAS
2 cups cubed, cooked carrots 3 tablespoons butter or other
1 cup cooked peas, fresh or fat or
canned Medium white sauce
Combine the carrots and peas, reheat and serve with melted
butter or any savory fat such as bacon fat; or combine with a
white sauce. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
No. 2 WITH GREEN MINT Combine the carrots and peas,
as directed above, add one-half cup mint leaves and a little boil-
ing water and boil for five minutes. Drain, add salt and pepper,
a generous amount of butter and a sprinkle of sugar. Set in
the oven until the sugar melts. Serve with a garnish of fresh
mint leaves.
CARROT MOLDS
2 cups grated raw carrot 1 teaspoon salt
l /2 cup bread-crumbs 2 tablespoons melted fat
2 eggs l / 2 cup milk
Wash, scrape and grate the carrots and mix with the crumbs.
Beat the eggs and add to them the salt, fat and milk. Add this
mixture to the carrot and crumb mixture. Fill a greased ring
mold or popover cups, set in a pan of hot water and bake in a
slow oven (250-325 F.) until firm.
BOILED CAULIFLOWER
Remove the green leaves from the cauliflower and cut off
any bruised or dirty spots. Place it, top downward, in a deep
394
r^^r^f
bowl of cold, salted water and allow it to stay there about half
an hour to draw out dust and other impurities. Cook it, whole
or broken into flowerets, in boiling water, uncovered. Just
before cooking is completed (15-30 minutes) salt the water.
Lift out the cauliflower carefully and allow it to drain in a
warm place. Pour medium white sauce over it or send the
sauce to the table in a sauce-boat, or serve it with melted butter
and paprika.
Sometimes hot boiled cauliflower is sprinkled with grated
cheese and then with buttered crumbs and baked to a light
brown in a moderate oven (400 F.), or it may be sprinkled
with the grated cheese and served without baking.
SCALLOPED CAULIFLOWER
1 medium cauliflower 1 1 / 2 cups medium white sauce
2 hard-cooked eggs or Bread-crumbs
4 tablespoons grated cheese
Break the cauliflower into flowerets before boiling. Drain.
Place a layer of the cooked cauliflower in a greased baking-
dish, then a layer of egg slices or of grated cheese, then a layer
of white sauce. Repeat until all the cauliflower is used. Put
a layer of crumbs over the top and bake in a moderate oven
(350-400 F.) from fifteen to thirty minutes. A bit of
cayenne pepper or paprika may be added for additional season-
ing.
CREAMED CELERY
2 cups celery cut into inch 2 tablespoons flour
long pieces 2 tablespoons fat
l /2 cup milk Salt and pepper
"Wash the stalks clean and cut them into pieces. Place the
celery in a stew-pan, cover with boiling water and boil until
tender (about half an hour), by which time the water should
be reduced to about one-half cup. Make a sauce with the
celery water, milk, flour and butter. Add the cooked celery
and season with salt and pepper.
SCALLOPED CELERY
Stew celery, as directed in the preceding recipe, using all milk
in the sauce instead of part celery water. Turn the creamed
VEGETABLES 395
celery into a greased ramekin, sprinkle with grated cheese and
buttered crumbs and bake in a moderate oven (350-400 F.)
until it is a golden brown (15-30 minutes).
CELERIAC
Not every housewife knows celeriac, but it is well worth
adding to her list of vegetable acquaintances. It is a variety of
celery grown for its turnip-like root instead of for the blanched
stalks. The flavor is similar to that of celery.
To prepare celeriac, trim off the tops, wash and pare the bulb,}
drop it into boiling water and cook about one-half hour, or
until tender. Add the salt just before cooking is completed.
It may then be prepared in the same way as creamed or scalloped
celery, or may be used, cold, in salads.
BOILED GREEN CORN
To have this vegetable in perfection, the husks should be left
on until just before it is to be boiled. Plunge the husked ears
into boiling water and cook from seven to twelve minutes,
according to the size of the corn. Do not salt the cooking water,
as this toughens the corn.
Lay a napkin on the serving-plate. Pile the corn upon this
in a pyramid, cover it with the corners of the napkin and send
it to the table.
CORN SOUFFLE
1 tablespoon fat Pepper
1 tablespoon flour 1 boiled pimiento
l /2 cup milk 2 cups corn pulp
1 teaspoon salt 2 eggs
54 teaspoon paprika
Make a white sauce, using the fat, flour, milk and seasoning.
Rub the pimiento through a sieve and add it to the sauce.
Add the corn to the mixture. Cool slightly, then add the well-
beaten egg-yolks and fold in the stiffly beaten egg-whites. Turn
into a greased baking-dish, set the dish in a pan of hot water,
and bake in a moderate oven (375 F.) until the egg is set,
about thirty minutes.
396
CORN OYSTERS
2 cups corn pulp 2 tablespoons fat
2 eggs Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons flour
If fresh corn is used, grate it from the cob with a coarse
grater. If canned corn is used, select one of the sieved varieties.
Beat the egg-yolks and whites separately and add to the grated
corn, with flour and fat, salt and pepper. Drop the batter
from a spoon into hot fat (3 60 -3 70 F.) and fry light brown
(2-3 minutes). Drain on soft paper. Serve hot.
CORN PUDDING OR DEVILED CORN
2 tablespoons fat 2 cups corn pulp
2 tablespoons flour 1 egg
l l /2 cups milk 1 tablespoon Worcestershire
1 teaspoon salt sauce
l /4 teaspoon mustard Buttered crumbs
Paprika
Make a sauce of fat, flour, milk, and seasonings, add corn, egg
slightly beaten, and "Worcestershire sauce. Pour into a baking-
dish, cover with buttered crumbs and bake in a moderate oven
(350-400 F.) fifteen to thirty minutes.
BAKED CORN AND TOMATOES
2 cups cooked corn 1 teaspoon sugar
2 cups tomatoes 1 cup fresh bread-crumbs
1 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons fat
Pepper
Mix seasonings with the corn and tomatoes and pour all into
a greased baking-dish. Spread the crumbs over the top, dot
them with the fat, and bake in a moderate oven (3 50 -400
F.) for one-half hour. This is a satisfactory way of utilizing
left-over corn or tomatoes.
CUCUMBER CUPS
This makes a dainty dish for luncheon. Cut the unpared
vegetables into sections two inches long and cook until tender
in water salted just before cooking is completed. Scoop out the
-tfflOff
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COME TRUE IN
THE DELICATE,
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National Dairy Council
COOKED CAR-
ROTS ROLLED IN
BREAD CRUMBS
AND BAKED ARE
EASY TO MAKE
AND SERVE
I NEW PRESENTATION OF PEAS
IN A CARROT JUNG, WITH
SLICED CARROTS AND PARSLEY
1 CARN ISH P^ X* * a ' :
VEGETABLES 397
center of each section, leaving one -half -inch thickness all
around the sides, as well as on the bottom, thus making green
cups of the vegetable. These cups may be filled with creamed
chicken, sweetbreads, mushrooms or any other filling held to-
gether with white sauce.
STEWED CUCUMBERS
3 cucumbers 1 cup boiling water
6 slices toast l /z teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons fat Pepper
2 tablespoons flour iy z tablespoons lemon-juice
Peel medium-sized cucumbers and cut them into quarters
lengthwise. Place in a shallow pan, cover with the boiling
water and stew gently for ten to twenty minutes. Add salt
just before cooking is completed. When done, lay them care-
fully on toasted bread, make a sauce of the flour, fat, water
in which cucumbers were cooked, and seasonings, cook until
smooth, and pour the sauce over the stewed cucumbers.
CUCUMBER SAUTE
4 cucumbers Salt and pepper
Butter Minced parsley or chives
Flour
Pare and quarter the cucumbers and boil them, without any
water, for three minutes. Drain; season with salt and pepper;
roll in flour and saute in a little butter until tender. Sprinkle
with parsley or chives just before the cooking is completed.
DANDELION GREENS
2 pounds dandelion greens 1 tablespoon butter
Salt and pepper
Dandelions should be used before they blossom, as they be-
come bitter after that time. Cut off the roots, pick the greens
over carefully, and wash them well in several waters. Place
them in a kettle, add a little boiling water, and boil until tender.
Salt the water just before cooking is completed. When done,
lift them into a colander, press them to drain off all the water,
and chop. Add butter, salt and pepper.
FRIED EGGPLANT
1 eggplant Cracker-dust or bread-crumbs
Salt Egg
Cut the eggplant into one-half-inch slices, pare and sprinkle
each slice with salt. Lay slice upon slice and place a plate upon
the top. Let stand two hours. The salt will draw out the dis-
agreeably bitter flavor. Half an hour before serving, wipe each
slice dry, dip in beaten egg, then in cracker dust or fine bread-
crumbs, and saute in hot fat. Put a pan in the oven or in some
other place where it can be kept hot; lay a piece of absorbent
paper in the pan, and upon it place the slices as they come crisp
and brown from the frying-pan. Serve on a hot platter with
the slices overlapping.
STUFFED EGGPLANT
1 eggplant l /2 cup water
2 tablespoons butter 2 cups crumbs
Salt and pepper
Cut the eggplant in half lengthwise and scoop out the center
pulp, leaving the rind about one-half inch thick so that the
shape may be firm. Cover the shells with cold water. Chop
the pulp fine, season it with salt, pepper, and butter, and cook
in a frying-pan for ten minutes, stirring well, then add water
and one cup of bread-crumbs. Drain the shells, sprinkle the
interior of each with salt and pepper and fill them with the
mixture. Spread the remaining crumbs over the tops. Place
the halves in a baking-dish or deep pan, and pour enough hot
water into the pan to come one-third up the sides of the plant.
Bake in a moderate oven (350-375 F.) one-half hour, and
serve hot.
CREAMED CHICORY OR ENDIVE
Wash the plant carefully and pick off the outer green leaves,
leaving only the white part. Boil until tender, drain well,
return it to the kettle, and nearly cover with medium white
sauce, which should be well seasoned.
VEGETABLES 399
KALE
Kale may be cooked and served in the same way as spinach,
or tied in a bundle like asparagus and served on toast with a
generous allowance of butter or white sauce.
CREAMED KOHLRABI
6 kohlrabi Paprika
2 tablespoons fat 2 cups milk
2 tablespoons flour 1 egg-yolk
Salt
Wash and pare the kohlrabi. Cut into half -inch cubes, drop
into boiling water to cover and cook until tender. Just before
cooking is completed, add salt, then drain and shake over the
fire to dry slightly. Make a white sauce from the flour, fat,
milk and seasonings, adding the egg-yolk last, and pour it over
the vegetable.
SAUTEED LENTILS
1 pint lentils Salt and pepper
l /s teaspoon soda 2 tablespoons fat
Wash the lentils and soak over night. In the morning, drain
them, cover with warm water in which the soda has been dis-
solved, and bring them quickly to the boiling-point. Boil
gently for one hour, drain, cover them again with fresh boil-
ing water, and boil gently until tender; this generally requires
from two to three hours longer. Test by mashing a lentil
between the fingers. If it crushes quickly, they are done.
Drain in a colander.
Melt fat in a frying-pan; add the lentils, with salt and pepper
to season; stir them over the fire for fifteen minutes. Two
minced onions may be added, if desired.
MACEDOINE OF VEGETABLES
2 cups mixed cooked vege- l / 2 cup water
tables Salt and pepper
1 teaspoon beef extract or 2 tablespoons butter or other
l /z cup stock fat
1 teaspoon sugar
Mix all the ingredients together and cook eight or ten minutes
over a hot fire, shaking the pan now and then. Serve hot.
4oo
BOILED MACARONI OR SPAGHETTI
Break the macaroni or spaghetti into short lengths. Cover
with plenty of boiling water and boil until soft, twenty-five to
thirty-five minutes generally being required. If a cooker with
perforated inner container is not available, stir occasionally
with a fork to prevent sticking to the kettle. Turn into a sieve
and drain thoroughly. Place in the serving-dish and cover with
tomato sauce. Serve grated cheese with it or mix the cheese
with the tomato sauce. Some people prefer spaghetti cooked
in long pieces. To do this place the ends in boiling water and
coil it as it softens.
BAKED MACARONI OR SPAGHETTI
WITH CHEESE
2 cups macaroni or spaghetti 2 tablespoons butter or other
broken into short lengths fat
Y 4 pound grated cheese l l /2 cups milk
Salt and pepper
Boil and drain the macaroni or spaghetti as directed in the
preceding recipe. Arrange a layer in the bottom of a pudding-
dish. Over it sprinkle some of the cheese and scatter over this
bits of butter or other fat. Add a sprinkling of salt and pepper.
Fill the dish in this order, having macaroni on top, well oiled
with fat but without cheese. Add just enough milk to cover
well and bake in a moderate oven (350-400 F.), about one-
half hour. Serve in the dish in which it was baked.
MUSHROOMS
To PREPARE MUSHROOMS for cooking by any method, cut
off the stalks, pare the caps, or brush well if they are fresh and
tender, and drop them into a bowl of water which contains
the juice of half a lemon or a tablespoon of vinegar if you wish
to keep them from darkening. If the stalks are solid and tender,
they may be peeled, cooked and served with the caps, otherwise
cook them with the peelings in a small amount of water, for
mushroom stock.
Too much cooking toughens mushrooms. Three or four
minutes will heat canned mushrooms, and five or six minutes
will cook fresh ones, usually.
VEGETABLES
\j
CREAMED MUSHROOMS
No. 1.
2 tablespoons fat 1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon flour l / 2 cup boiling water
l / 2 cup cream 2 cups mushrooms, fresh or
% teaspoon pepper canned
Make a sauce of the fat, flour, cream and seasoning. Pre-
pare mushrooms and stew them in boiling water until tender.
Add, without draining, to cream sauce. Serve very hot.
No. 2.
1 1 /2 tablespoons fat Salt and pepper
1 l / 2i tablespoons flour 1 1 / 2 cups cooked mushrooms
1 egg-yolk fresh or canned
1 cup milk
Prepare a white sauce of the fat, flour, milk and seasonings.
Add the cooked mushrooms to the sauce and cook gently for
several minutes. Just before serving, add the beaten egg-yolk
and reheat.
MUSHROOMS UNDER GLASS
2 tablespoons butter 1 slice toast
l /2 tablespoon lemon- juice 6 mushroom caps
Salt and pepper l / 4 cup heavy cream
l /2 teaspoon minced parsley
The quantities given allow for service of only one person.
Baking dishes with bell-shaped glass covers are obtainable at
most house-furnishing stores. The mushrooms should be served
with the covers on.
Cream butter and add lemon -juice, drop by drop, salt, pepper
and minced parsley. Cover the bottom of an individual bak-
ing-dish with a circular piece of toast three-eighths of an inch
thick, wetting the under side with half the sauce already made.
Pile mushroom caps, cleaned and peeled, on the toast and pour
over them the remainder of the sauce and the heavy cream.
Cover with glass and bake in a quick oven (400 -450 F.)
about twenty-five minutes. Save the stalks, if tender, or stew
with skins in a little water to make stock for seasoning sauces
and gravies.
402
BAKED OR ROASTED MUSHROOMS
36 mushroom caps Butter
Salt and pepper 6 slices toast
Select mushrooms that are plump and are truly little cups.
Prepare caps as directed. Place them upside down in a baking-
dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper and place a bit of butter in
each cup. Set the pan in a quick oven (400 -450 F.) and
cook for fifteen minutes. The cups will be filled with their
own liquor. Serve on toast, very hot.
BOILED OKRA
No. 1.
1 quart tender okra pods 3 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper 1 tablespoon vinegar
Test the okra by breaking off the tips of the pods. If there
are tough strings that will not break easily the pod is too old to
be served as a vegetable and should be kept for a soup or sauce
which is to be strained. The pods of okra are so sticky that
special care is needed to avoid breaking them during the clean-
ing. Wash them well, and remove the stems, place in sufficient
boiling water to cover them and boil until tender (20-40 min-
utes) . Add salt just before cooking is completed. Okra should
boil very slowly, as rapid boiling will break it in pieces. When
it is tender, turn into a colander to drain, then lay it in a serv-
ing dish. Melt the butter, add the vinegar and a little salt and
pepper; mix well, and pour the sauce over the okra.
No. 2.
2 cups okra Salt and pepper
2 tomatoes 1 tablespoon butter
Test and wash the okra as above; remove stems and cut the
pods into slices, crosswise. Place in a granite stew-pan, just
cover with boiling water and simmer until tender (20-40 min-
utes). Add the tomatoes, peeled and chopped, and stew for
ten minutes longer. Add butter, salt and pepper, and serve.
BOILED ONIONS
Peel the onions. If they are very large cut them in quarters.
Cook in boiling water, uncovered, until tender (30-60 min-
VEGETABLES 403
utes). Just before cooking is completed, add salt to taste.
When cooked, drain well, season with butter and pepper and
serve hot.
CREAMED ONIONS
In peeling the onions remove all of the green leaves, for they
should be as white as milk when served. Drop them into boil-
ing water and boil uncovered for ten minutes. Drain, add
freshly boiling water and continue cooking until tender (30-
60 minutes) . Just before cooking is completed, add salt. Drain
thoroughly, place in a serving-dish and pour medium white
sauce over them. If the onions are large they may be quartered
before they are cooked.
STUFFED ONIONS
6 medium to large onions l /z cup milk
l /2 cup chopped ham or Pepper
chopped green pepper l /2 teaspoon salt
l /2 cup soft bread-crumbs 1 tablespoon fat
Fine dry bread-crumbs
Remove a slice from the top of each onion and parboil the
onions until almost tender. Drain and remove the centers, leav-
ing six little cups. Chop the onion that was scooped out and
combine with it the ham and soft crumbs. Add seasoning and
refill the onion cups. Place them in a baking-dish, cover with
crumbs, add the milk, and bake in a quick oven (400 -450
F.) until tender.
CREAMED PARSNIPS
12 medium-sized parsnips 2 tablespoons flour
1 cup milk 2 tablespoons fat
Salt and pepper
Young parsnips are most desirable, but old ones may be used
if the woody center is removed.
Wash and scrape the parsnips, and boil them until tender.
Drain and cut them into small pieces. Make a sauce of the
fat, flour, milk and seasonings. Add the cooked parsnips and
serve.
404
FRIED PARSNIPS
12 medium-sized parsnips Salt and pepper
Flour or fine crumbs
Scrape and boil the parsnips until tender. If old, remove the
woody centers. Drain, and when cold, cut them in long, thin
slices about one-third of an inch thick, and season each slice
with salt and pepper. Dip the slices in flour or fine crumbs and
saute in fat or oil until both sides are thoroughly browned.
Drain well and serve very hot.
BOILED PEAS
2 quarts peas in the shell 2 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper
Fresh peas should not be shelled until just before they are
needed for cooking. Look them over carefully after shelling,
taking out any tendrils that may be mixed with them. Wash
and cook until tender in a covered pan in just enough boiling
water to prevent scorching. Add salt just before cooking is
completed. Young peas will cook in ten to twenty minutes
but those that are more mature require a longer time. Most
of the water should have cooked away. If any remains, drain
carefully. Let the peas stand in the drainer over hot water.
Melt the butter, add salt and pepper and the drained peas.
Mix well, reheat, and serve.
CREAMED PEAS
2 cups cooked peas 1 cup medium white sauce
Mix peas with white sauce. Reheat and serve.
BHUGIA
2 cups peas 2 tablespoons oil or melted fat
4 medium potatoes Salt
Chopped green peppers
This is a popular dish in India and is usually served with the
dinner roast. Boil the peas and potatoes separately. When the
potatoes are thoroughly done, drain and let them cool enough
VEGETABLES 405
to be easily handled. Drain the peas. Heat the oil in a frying-
pan. Slice the potatoes and saute potatoes and peas together
in the oil. Season with salt and sprinkle with chopped green
peppers.
RICE AND PEAS
1 cup rice 2 onions 2 cups green peas
Boil the rice and peas separately. Chop the onions fine and
fry them in oil until tender. Add the cooked rice and peas.
BOILED POTATOES
Select potatoes of uniform size. Wash, pare, if you wish,
and drop into cold water. Cook in boiling water until tender
when pierced with a fork. Just before cooking is completed,
add the salt. The water should be kept boiling constantly.
When done, drain and shake the pan over the fire to dry the
potatoes. Serve in an uncovered dish or cover with a folded
napkin. Old potatoes should be soaked in cold water for an
hour or so before boiling. When they are pared, potatoes lose
much vitamin and mineral content in boiling. It is better,
therefore, from the nutritional standpoint, to wash them
thoroughly, scrubbing with a brush, and boil them with the
skins on. They may be peeled quickly before they are served,
or served with the skins on.
RICED POTATOES
Force hot, freshly boiled potatoes through a ricer or coarse
strainer. Sprinkle with salt and pile lightly into the serving-
dish. Serve at once in an uncovered dish.
BAKED POTATOES
Select smooth, medium-sized potatoes, scrub, remove the eyes
and any blemishes, place in a baking-pan or on the rack in a
very hot oven (450-500 F.) and bake until tender (30-60
minutes). Be sure to have the oven hot before the potatoes
are put in. To test the potatoes, do not pierce them with a fork,
but squeeze them with the hand wrapped in a towel. When
soft, break the skin to keep them from being soggy, and serve.
406
POTATOES ON THE HALF-SHELL
Select medium-sized or large potatoes; scrub and bake. Re-
move a piece of skin from the side of each potato to make it
boat-shaped, or cut large potatoes in two lengthwise. Scoop
out the inside, being careful not to break the shell. Mash very
thoroughly it is advisable to put them through the ricer
add butter, salt and milk, and beat well. Pile the mixture
lightly back in the shells. Do not smooth down the top. Stand
the filled shells in a shallow pan, return to the oven (400 F.),
and brown lightly on top. Tuck in small wieners before serv-
ing if desired.
STUFFED POTATOES
Follow directions for potatoes on the half-shell, adding one-
half cup peanut butter and two egg-whites to the potato mix-
ture.
POTATOES SUZETTE
6 medium-sized potatoes 6 tablespoons buttered crumbs
l /2 cup hot milk 1 tablespoon grated cheese
2 tablespoons melted fat Salt and pepper
6 eggs
Prepare as for potatoes on the half shell. Refill the shell al-
most to the top, break an egg into each opening, season with
pepper and salt and sprinkle with buttered crumbs that have
been mixed with grated cheese and bake in a slow oven (250-
350 F.) long enough to set the egg and brown lightly (about
six minutes).
SCALLOPED POTATOES
6 medium-sized potatoes Milk
2 tablespoons flour Salt and pepper
4 tablespoons butter
Pare raw potatoes and cut them into thin slices. Place in a
baking-dish a layer of the potato one inch deep, season with
salt and pepper, sprinkle a portion of the flour over each layer,
add a part of the butter in bits. Then add another layer of
the potato and seasoning, as before, and continue until the re-
quired amount is used. It is advisable not to have more than
VEGETABLES 47
two or three layers because of difficulty in cooking. Add milk
until it can be seen between the slices of potato, cover and bake
(350-400 F.) until potatoes are tender when pierced with a
fork (1-1//2 hours). Remove the cover during the last fifteen
minutes to brown the top. Serve from the baking-dish.
FRANCONIA POTATOES
Select medium-sized potatoes, pare and place them in the
baking-pan with the roast, allowing an hour and a quarter for
their cooking. Turn them often and baste with the gravy from
the roast. Serve them arranged about the meat on the platter.
If you wish to shorten the cooking time, parboil them for fifteen
minutes before putting them into the roasting-pan, and allow
forty-five minutes for the roasting.
DUTCH POTATOES
6 potatoes 6 slices fat salt pork or bacon
6 frankfurter sausages Pepper
Scrub medium-sized potatoes; pare or leave the skins on as
preferred. With an apple-corer cut a tunnel through the center
of each, lengthwise. Draw through each cavity one of the
frankfurters. Place in a dripping-pan and lay a blanket of
fat salt pork or a thick slice of bacon on each potato. Pepper
lightly and bake in a very hot oven (450-500 F.) until the
potatoes are tender, basting occasionally with the drippings and
a little hot water.
POTATO PUFF OR SOUFFLE
2 cups hot mashed potatoes 2 tablespoons butter or other
2 eggs fat
1 cup milk
To the mashed potatoes add the fat, the egg-yolks which have
been beaten until very light, and the milk. Stir until well
blended and then fold in the stiffly beaten egg-,whites. Mix
lightly and pile the mass in a well-greased baking-dish. Set in
a pan containing hot water and bake in a moderate oven (375
F.) twenty to thirty minutes. Serve at once.
DESIGN FOR EATING . . .
BRUSSELS SPROUTS IN
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CARROTS AND ACCENTS OF
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POTATO CUPS AND CARROT
STRIPS
408
SAVORY POTATO CAKES
2 cups, hot riced potatoes l / 4 teaspoon paprika
1 egg Sifted bread-crumbs
2 tablespoons butter or other 2 tablespoons chopped mint
fat leaves
l /2 teaspoon salt
Add the egg-yolk, fat and seasonings to the potatoes. Shape
into cakes, dip into the slightly beaten egg-white, which has
been diluted with two tablespoons water, roll in crumbs and fry
in deep fat (375-390 F.) until brown.
JULIENNE POTATO WITH SAVORY SAUCE
2 cups potato cut in strings 1 cup milk
1 small onion 1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon mixed herbs Pepper
2 tablespoons fat Grated cheese
2 tablespoons flour
Cut the raw, pared potatoes into long match-like strips. Cook
them in boiling water until tender. Drain and turn into a
warm dish. Brown the chopped onion and the herbs in the
fat. Add the flour, stirring thoroughly, add the milk, salt and
pepper and cook in a double boiler twenty minutes. Strain and
pour over the cooked potato. Sprinkle with grated cheese and
serve.
MASHED POTATOES
6 medium-sized potatoes 2 tablespoons butter
Hot milk or cream Salt and white pepper
Pare and boil the potatoes. Drain, and set the saucepan in a
warm place with the cover off for a minute or two to dry the
potatoes thoroughly. Mash the potatoes in the saucepan in
which they were boiled, or turn them out into a warm dish
and put through the ricer into the same saucepan. Work
quickly so that they will not get cold. Add the butter, season
to taste, and beat, adding milk or cream a little at a time until
the potatoes are light and moist.
FOR POTATO CUPS Pile into a large teacup and make a hol-
low with the bottom of a smaller tumbler or bottle. Slip out
carefully onto the serving plate. Keep hot until filled and
served.
VEGETABLES 409
MASHED POTATOES AU GRATIN
6 potatoes riced 2 eggs
3 tablespoons fat 54 CU P grated cheese
l /2 teaspoon salt l / 2 cup buttered crumbs
l / 2 teaspoon paprika
Add fat, seasoning and eggs to the hot riced potatoes. Beat
until light and mound on a baking-dish. Cover with grated
cheese and then with buttered crumbs. Bake (400 F.) ten
minutes, or until the crumbs are brown.
DUCHESS POTATOES
2 cups riced potatoes 2 egg-yolks
2 tablespoons fat Salt and paprika
Mix riced potato, fat and beaten yolks of eggs, reserving a
little of the yolk for brushing the cakes. Add a little salt and
paprika. Shape by means of a pastry-bag and tube into leaves,
crowns, pyramids, etc. Brush over with beaten egg-yolk to
which one teaspoon of water has been added. Brown in a hot
oven (400-450 F.).
FRENCH FRIED POTATOES
No. 1 Wash and pare potatoes and cut into eighths length-
wise. Dry between towels and fry in deep fat (395 F.).
Drain on soft paper, sprinkle with salt and serve in an un-
covered dish.
No. 2 Cut uncooked potatoes into blocks measuring about
three-fourths of an inch each way, and place them in boiling
water. Cook until almost done, ten or eleven minutes being
usually required. Then drain off all the water and allow five
minutes for the escape of steam. Fry them a few at a time in
deep fat (395 F. ) . Drain on soft paper placed on a hot plate.
Sprinkle with salt and pepper.
BELGIAN BAKED POTATOES
Prepare potatoes as for French fried. Dip them in melted fat
and lay them in a shallow pan, being sure that the pieces do not
overlap. Bake in a quick oven (400 -450 F.) until brown on
top, turn carefully and continue baking until they resemble
4io
'N^N^N^
French fried potatoes. Baste them with more fat during bak-
ing, if necessary. When done, sprinkle with salt and serve
piping hot.
POTATO CHIPS OR SARATOGA POTATOES
Wash and pare potatoes and shave into very thin slices. Soak
them for one hour in cold water, then drain and dry on a towel.
Fry in deep fat (395 F.) a few slices at a time until light
brown, keeping them in motion with a skimmer. Lay them on
soft paper to drain. Sprinkle lightly with salt, and serve.
In cool weather, enough potato chips may be cooked at one
time to last a week or ten days. They should be kept in a cool
dry place and should always be reheated in the oven until
crisp, before serving.
AMERICAN FRIED OR BROWNED POTATOES
No. 1 Cut boiled potatoes into slices one-fourth of an inch
thick. Heat a very little fat in a frying-pan and saute the
slices, browning on both sides. Season with salt and pepper.
No. 2 Chop the potatoes in a chopping-bowl until the pieces
measure one-half inch or less, and add them to the hot fat in the
frying-pan. Season with salt and pepper and saute, stirring
constantly, until the potatoes look yellow and are cooking
well. Then cover the pan, set it in a slow heat for five minutes,
and serve in a heated dish.
HASHED BROWN POTATOES
2 tablespoons oil or drip- 6 boiled potatoes
pings Salt and pepper
Chop the potatoes, adding salt, and a dash of pepper. Heat
the fat in a frying-pan, and add the chopped potatoes to the
depth of one inch. Press the potatoes down in the pan, packing
them firmly. Cook slowly, without stirring, until the potato is
brown. Then begin at one side of the pan and fold the pota-
toes over on the other like an omelet, packing closely together.
Turn out on to a hot serving platter and serve.
VEGETABLES 4"
CREAMED POTATOES
No. 1.
2 cups cold boiled or baked l l /z cups medium white sauce
potatoes Salt and pepper
Cut potatoes into small pieces and mix with the white sauce.
Cook together gently until the potatoes are thoroughly heated
through. Season to taste.
No. 2 Slice boiled potatoes very thin. Turn them into a
frying-pan with two tablespoons melted butter and pour in
milk until it almost covers them. Stew, uncovered, over a low
heat, without stirring, for twenty or twenty-five minutes. Tip
the pan a little every five minutes and baste the potatoes with
the milk. If the potatoes are sliced thin enough, the starch in
them will thicken the milk and the result will be creamy and
delicious, with all the milk stewed down so that no liquid re-
mains. Add salt and pepper to taste. If part cream is used a
the dish is even more delicious.
No. 3 (NEW POTATOES)
1 dozen small potatoes 2 tablespoons fat
2 tablespoons flour Salt Pepper
1 cup milk Paprika or parsley
Small new potatoes are delicious when served with a cream
sauce. Scrape the potatoes until no speck of the skin remains,
boil until tender and drain. Add salt just before cooking is
completed.
Make a sauce of the fat, flour, milk and seasonings. Place
potatoes in the serving-dish, pour the sauce over them, dust
with a sprinkling of paprika or chopped parsley and serve at
once. This makes a particularly nice dish for luncheon.
DELMONICO POTATOES
2 cups cooked potatoes, diced Salt and pepper
2 cups medium white sauce Buttered crumbs
Mix potatoes and sauce, add salt and pepper, and pour into a
buttered baking dish; cover with crumbs and bake ten minutes
in a hot oven (400 F.).
412
POTATOES AU GRATIN
Creamed potatoes No. 1 2 to 4 tablespoons grated
1 teaspoon minced parsley cheese
1 cup buttered crumbs
Follow directions for creamed potatoes No. 1 adding the
parsley. Turn into greased baking- dish, sprinkle with cheese,
cover with buttered crumbs and bake in a hot oven (400 F.)
until crumbs are brown.
POTATO DROPS
2 cups mashed potatoes 2 eggs
(without any milk) Salt and pepper
Mix the mashed, seasoned potato and the beaten eggs. Drop
the mixture from a spoon into the hot fat(375-390 F.) and
fry until a golden brown, (2-3 minutes) then drain on brown
paper and serve with a garnish of parsley. If the spoon is
dipped into boiling water after every using, each drop will re-
tain the shape of the spoon.
POTATO O'BRIEN
6 medium-sized potatoes Chopped pimientos
Salt Onion-juice
Wash, pare and cut potatoes into half-inch dice. Dry be-
tween towels. Fry in hot fat (395 F.) until a delicate brown.
Drain on soft paper, sprinkle with salt, then saute them in just
enough fat to keep them from burning, adding minced pi-
mientos and a few drops of onion-juice. They should be tossed
frequently during cooking, and not pressed close to the pan.
POTATOES PERSILLADE
12 small new potatoes or Butter
6 medium-sized old pota- Juice of one-half lemon
toes l / 2 cup minced parsley
These are dependent upon parsley, not only for their name
but for their attractive appearance. Scrape new potatoes. Pare
old potatoes and cut the size of a small egg or with a vegetable
scoop cut them into balls. Boil until tender. Add salt just
VEGETABLES 4*3
before cooking is completed. Drain, place in a saucepan with
sufficient butter to coat all the potatoes, add the lemon-juice
and sprinkle with minced parsley. The potatoes should be well
coated with parsley when served. These are excellent with
boiled fish.
LYONNAISE POTATOES
2 cups boiled potatoes, diced 2 tablespoons fat
1 tablespoon minced onion 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
The potatoes should be rather underdone to produce the best
results. Season with salt and pepper. Saute the onion in fat
until yellow, add the diced potato and stir with a fork until
all sides are brown, being careful not to break the potatoes.
Add more fat if necessary. When done, turn the potatoes out
upon a hot dish, sprinkle parsley over the top, and serve hot.
SPANISH POTATOES
1 tablespoon minced onion 2 cups cold boiled potatoes,
2 tablespoons chopped green diced
pepper l /2 cup cold cooked ham,
2 tablespoons chopped chopped
pimiento 1 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons oil or cooking l /2 teaspoon paprika
fat
Saute the onion, pepper and pimiento in the fat until light
brown, add the diced potatoes, the chopped ham and seasonings
and cook until thoroughly heated through.
MASHED POTATO BALLS
2 cups cold mashed potatoes Butter
1 egg-yolk Salt and pepper
Mix cold mashed potato with the beaten egg-yolk and shape
the mixture into balls. Place the balls in a greased pan and
make a depression on the top of each, put a bit of butter in each
depression and brown in the oven (400-450 F.).
PRINCESS POTATOES
2 cups cold mashed potatoes Melted fat
1 egg
If the potato is cold and firm, cut into strips two inches long,
one inch wide and one-half inch thick, otherwise shape into
414
*v^^v/>
flat cakes one-half inch thick. Dip the strips or cakes first into
the melted fat and then into the egg, which has been slightly
beaten, and lay them carefully on a greased pan. Cook in a hot
oven (400 -450 F.) until brown.
BOILED SWEET POTATOES
Follow directions for boiled white potatoes (See Index) .
BAKED SWEET POTATOES
Follow directions for baked white potatoes (See Index).
GLAZED OR CANDIED SWEET POTATOES
No. 1.
6 sweet potatoes 1 cup brown or maple sugar
Salt and pepper l / 4 cup water
Butter
Boil the potatoes without paring them, and when tender
drain and strip off the skins. Make a sirup by boiling to-
gether the sugar and water. Cut each potato in half or in
thick slices, dip each piece into the sirup and lay it in a greased
baking-dish. Season with salt and pepper and bits of butter.
When all the potato is in the dish, pour over it any sirup that
remains and bake in a quick oven (400 -450 F.) until the
potatoes are brown. They will brown quickly.
No. 2 Use the same quantities as for No. 1. Pare the po-
tatoes and boil until about half done. Drain, cut in lengthwise
slices, and lay in a shallow greased pan. Spread generously with
butter and pour over all the sirup. Bake in a moderate oven
(3$0-400 F.) basting frequently with the sirup until the
potatoes are transparent. It may be necessary to add more
sirup during the baking. An hour or more is usually required
for these potatoes.
SWEET POTATO PUFF
2 cups mashed sweet potato Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons fat l / 4 cup milk or cream
1 egg
To the mashed sweet potatoes add the melted fat, seasonings
and milk. Beat the egg-yolk and white separately, add the
VEGETABLES 415
yolk to the potato mixture, and then fold in the white. Put
into a baking-dish or individual molds, set in a pan containing
hot water and bake (375 F.) until puffy and brown.
SWEET POTATO WITH PINEAPPLE
6 small sweet potatoes 54 cup honey
% as much pineapple as % cup water
potato
Boil the potatoes with the skins on. When cool, peel and cut
them in pieces one-quarter of an inch thick. Mix honey and
hot water. Just cover the bottom of a baking-dish with the
mixture, add the sweet potatoes and sliced pineapple. Pour the
remaining honey mixture over them and bake for ten minutes
in the oven (400 F.).
CREOLE SWEET POTATOES
6 large sweet potatoes Grated nutmeg
Salt 1 cup rich brown stock
Celery salt Few drops of caramel
White pepper
Prepare potatoes by parboiling them for twenty minutes.
Remove skins and cut potatoes in halves. Place the pieces in a
shallow baking-pan, sprinkle with salt, celery salt, white pepper
and grated nutmeg. Pour into the pan the stock, to which a
few drops of caramel have been added, and bake in a quick
oven (400 -450 F.) until tender and slightly browned. Baste
frequently with the stock. These may be served as a border
around planked fish.
MASHED SWEET POTATO CARAMEL
2 cups mashed sweet potato l /2 cup maple sirup
Milk y 4 cup butter
Pepper and salt
Left-over sweet potatoes, either baked or boiled, may Ke use3
for this dish. Mash potatoes and add sufficient milk or cream
to make a smooth, soft paste. Season with pepper and salt. Put
into a well-greased casserole or baking-dish, suitable for serving
at table, and pour in thick maple sirup which has been boiled
with butter. Bake (400 F.) until the top begins to caramel-
ize.
416
SWEET POTATO WAFFLES
4 tablespoons fat 1 cup mashed sweet potato
1 tablespoon sugar 2 teaspoons baking-powder
% cup flour Salt
1 egg Cayenne
1 cup milk Nutmeg
Mix the fat and sugar to a cream, stir in the well-beaten egg-
yolk, the potato, milk and seasonings, and beat well until
smooth. Fold in the stiffly beaten egg-white. Bake in a heated
waffle-iron until golden brown. Serve, dusted with sugar and
cinnamon? as an accompaniment to roast duck or turkey.
CREAMED RADISHES
\ l /2 cups large, strongly 1 cup milk
flavored radishes 2 tablespoons fat
2 tablespoons flour Salt and pepper
"Wash, pare and slice the radishes. Boil until tender. Make a
white sauce of the flour, fat., milk and seasonings. Combine
radishes and sauce and serve. The flavor is not unlike spicy
turnips and they make a pleasant novelty served with steak or
chops.
BOILED RICE
1 cup rice 3 quarts water or more 1 tablespoon salt
Wash the rice; drop it into the salted boiling water; and boil
rapidly, uncovered, for fifteen or twenty minutes, or until the
kernels are soft when pressed between the thumb and finger.
Place in a colander (saving the water for soup) and pour boil-
ing water over the rice to remove the loose starch and separate
the grains. Drain and place in the oven with the door open
for a few minutes, to allow the cereal to dry out. The grains
should be separate and distinct.
CURRY OF RICE
1 cup rice 1 to 2 tablespoons curry-
2 tablespoons fat powder
1 teaspoon chopped onion 2 teaspoons salt
2 l /z cups boiling water % teaspoon pepper
Wash the rice well. Place fat and onion in a stew-pan and
cook them until the onion is yellow, add the rice and stir the
VEGETABLES 4*7
whole over a hot fire for five minutes. Draw the pan out of
the heat, season with the curry-powder, salt and pepper, stir
well and pour in the boiling water. Cover the stew-pan and
boil rapidly for ten minutes, then cook very slowly for forty
minutes.
Curry of rice is appropriate with any kind of meat dish that
has been prepared with a sauce.
RICE A LA CREOLE
1 onion 2 cups cooked tomatoes
1 slice cooked ham Salt
1 tablespoon fat Paprika
1 cup boiled rice Bread-crumbs
Chop onion and ham very fine. Add fat, boiled rice, and
tomatoes seasoned with salt and paprika. Mix thoroughly, put
into a baking-dish, cover with bread-crumbs and bake (400
F.) for fifteen minutes.
CREAMED SALSIFY OR OYSTER PLANT
Wash and scrape the salsify, throwing it immediately into
cold water to which a little vinegar or lemon- juice has been
added, to prevent discoloration. Cut in inch slices and cook
in boiling water until tender, adding salt just before cooking
is completed. When tender, drain and combine with medium
white sauce. Serve with tiny fried sausage balls.
FRIED SALSIFY
Follow directions for fried parsnips (See Index) .
STEAMED OR BAKED SUMMER SQUASH
Cut the squash into pieces of medium size, and remove the
seeds and the soft mesh surrounding them. Steam or bake until
tender. Serve in the shell or scrape from shell, mash, and
place, uncovered, for ten minutes in a good heat to dry, stirring
frequently. Season with butter, salt and pepper.
FRIED SQUASH
2 white squash Egg and crumbs Salt and pepper
The white "button" squash, about four inches in diameter^
are best when fried. Pare and cut the squash into thin slices,
4i8
VX^V^
dip in seasoned crumbs, then in beaten egg, then in more crumbs,
and fry in deep fat (395 F.) from four to five minutes. "When
the slices are brown, drain on soft paper. Serve on a platter or
other flat dish. Fried squash makes an excellent luncheon dish.
SQUASH IN THE SHELL
1 squash Egg
3 tablespoons butter Milk
Salt and pepper
Cut off the top of a small squash, remove the seeds and
stringy portion, place in a pan and boil, steam or bake about
two hours, until tender. Remove the pulp from the shell, being
careful to keep the large shell intact. Mash the pulp and season
it with salt, pepper and butter.
Return the mixture to the shell, smooth the surface to a dome
shape, score with a knife, brush over with milk and beaten egg,
add bits of butter and place in a quick oven (400 F.) for a
few minutes to brown. Or leave the pulp in the squash, season
well and fill center with ham a la king, chicken a la king,
creamed salmon or sausage mixtures.
BOILED SPINACH
No. 1 AMERICAN STYLE
2 pounds spinach 3 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper
Remove roots and wilted leaves of the spinach. Wash in
several waters, until all trace of sand has disappeared. Place in
a large kettle without additional water; the water which clings
to the leaves is sufficient. Cover the kettle and cook with low
heat until the spinach is tender. The time of cooking depends
on the age of the spinach. Long cooking darkens it. Salt the
water just before cooking is completed. When done, drain,
chop, season with salt, pepper and butter and one tablespoon
lemon-juice, if desired.
SPINACH MOLD
1 peck spinach, cooked and y 4 CU P butter
chopped iy 2 cups bread crumbs
3 unbeaten eggs y^ teaspoon pepper
y 4 cup milk 1 teaspoon salt
VEGETABLES 419
Combine all ingredients, turn into a buttered ring mold and
steam 2 hours. Unmold and garnish with hard-cooked eggs and
carrots. Fill center of mold with mashed potatoes or creamed
mushrooms.
CREAMED SPINACH
2 pounds spinach Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon butter 2 tablespoons cream
2 hard-cooked egg-yolks
Cook spinach according to directions for boiled spinach No. 1,
drain well, and chop fine. Return to fire, add butter, salt
and pepper, and stir until the butter is melted, then add cream
and chopped yolks and mix well.
SPINACH SOUFFLE
2 cups cooked spinach, fresh or canned 2 eggs
This is a satisfactory way to dispose of left-over cooked
spinach. To the spinach add egg-yolks beaten, place in a
granite saucepan, heat and stir over the fire until the egg setS|
then remove from the heat and when cold add the beaten egg-
whites. Fill individual baking-dishes one-half full of this mix-
ture. Set the dishes in a pan of hot water and bake in a moder-
ate oven (375 F.) from twenty to thirty minutes. Serve at
once to prevent falling.
SPINACH IN EGGS
2 cups boiled spinach Mustard
6 eggs Butter
Salt Vinegar
Red pepper
"While the spinach is cooking, cook the eggs hard. Cut eggs
in halves crosswise and remove the yolks. Cut a slice from the
bottom of each cooked egg-white so that it will stand on a
platter. Season the yolks with red pepper, mustard, butter and
salt. Mix thoroughly with vinegar to taste. Fill the egg-cups
with the spinach, mounding it high, and put the rest around
the egg. Put the prepared yolks in a ricer and squeeze over all.
420
SUCCOTASH
2 cups green corn or Salt and pepper
1 cup dried corn 1 cup milk
2 cups fresh Lima, string or 4 tablespoons butter
butter beans or 1 cup dried
Lima beans
If fresh vegetables are used, cut the corn from the cob. Cover
the beans with the least possible amount of boiling water, to
prevent scorching, and cook until tender. Drain off the water,
add the corn and the milk and cook slowly until the corn is
tender. Add the butter and other seasoning.
When dried corn and beans are used, soak both separately
over night. In the morning, cover the beans with fresh water,
and boil them very gently until tender. Do not drain the water
from the corn, but reduce heat so it will cook slowly. When
the beans are tender, drain and add them to the corn, allowing
only water enough to cover. Cook slowly until tender and drain
off water to save for soup. Add the milk and seasoning.
STEWED TOMATOES
6 tomatoes, fresh or canned Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons butter Crumbs or flour
Pour boiling water on fresh tomatoes, and after they have
remained covered one minute drain them and plunge them into
cold water. Slip off the skins, remove the hard stem ends, and
cut the tomatoes in pieces. Stew them in their own juice in a
graniteware or porcelain-lined kettle until tender, add butter,
salt, and pepper. Bread-crumbs or cracker-crumbs, or a little
flour blended with the butter, may be added for thickening.
FRIED TOMATOES
6 tomatoes Crumbs Salt and pepper
Select firm, ripe tomatoes, wash them and cut in half-inch
slices without removing the skins. Season fine crumbs with salt
and pepper, dip each slice of tomato in the crumbs, and saute in
hot fat. Serve hot.
VEGETABLES 421
BAKED TOMATOES
6 tomatoes 1 cup bread-crumbs
4 tablespoons fat 1 teaspoon sugar
Salt and pepper
Peel the tomatoes and cut them in slices one-fourth inch
thick. Place a layer of tomatoes in a pudding-dish, and sprinkle
over them a little salt and pepper. Rub the fat into the crumbs
with the sugar. Spread the mixture thickly upon the tomatoes,
using all of it, and add another layer of tomatoes. Add bits
of butter or other fat, sprinkle with dry crumbs, and bake
(350-400 F,) twenty minutes.
BROILED TOMATOES
6 tomatoes Melted butter
Salt and pepper
Choose firm, round tomatoes, cut them into slices, three-
quarters inch thick, dust each slice with salt and pepper, place
in a greased broiler and broil tender. Turn once carefully.
Add melted butter and serve at once.
SCALLOPED TOMATOES
6 large fresh tomatoes or Bread-crumbs
1 quart cooked tomatoes, Butter or other fat
fresh or canned Grated cheese, if desired
Salt and pepper
Skin fresh tomatoes and cut them into slices. If using cooked
tomatoes, drain off the juice, using only the pulp. Place a layer
of tomato in a greased baking-dish, add a seasoning of salt and
pepper then a thin layer of bread-crumbs. Cut the fat into
tiny pieces and lay on the crumbs. Then add another layer of
tomato and proceed until the materials are used, having crumbs
for the top layer. Add bits of fat and bake for thirty minutes
in a moderate oven (3 50 -400 F.). Serve in the baking-dish.
Grated cheese may be added to each layer, or to the top one
only.
422
\X\^>>NXNX 1 V/V/ 1 V>'VXVX'W^.
STUFFED TOMATOES
No. 1.
6 tomatoes 2 tablespoons fat
l l /2 cups soft bread-crumbs 1 teaspoon salt
Y 4 teaspoon pepper
The tomatoes should be very firm, smooth, and of equal size.
Cut a piece from the stem end of each tomato, and remove the
centers without breaking the walls. Make a stuffing of the
centers of the tomatoes, crumbs, seasonings, and melted fat and
mix well. Sprinkle each tomato well with salt and pepper and
fill with the stuffing, packing it in quite solidly.
Place a small piece of butter on the top of each, arrange the
tomatoes in a baking-dish and bake in a moderate oven (350-
400 F.) until tender. Serve hot in the baking-dish.
No. 2 INDIAN STYLE.
6 tomatoes *4 teaspoon pepper
3 tablespoons rice l /% teaspoon garlic clove
1 tablespoon fat 1 teaspoon chopped celery
1 slice bread A little chopped parsley
2 tablespoons milk Thyme
2 hard-cooked egg-yolks l /z teaspoon curry-powder
l /2 teaspoon salt
Cut the tops from the tomatoes and remove the pulp. Wash
the rice carefully, put it into a saucepan with one-half cup
salted boiling water and the tomato pulp and cook until the
rice is soft. Add the fat, the bread soaked in the milk, the
mashed egg-yolk and seasonings. Stuff the tomato shells with
this mixture, replace the tops and place in a baking-dish.
Bake in a moderate oven (3 50 -400 F.) until the tomatoes
are soft (about twenty minutes). The curry-powder gives an
unusual flavor to the tomatoes, but may be omitted.
MASHED TURNIPS
1 pound white or yellow 3 tablespoons butter
turnips Salt and pepper
Wash, pare and slice the turnips and cook in boiling water
until soft, adding salt just before the cooking is completed.
Drain and mash the turnips in the stew-pan and stand the pan,
VEGETABLES 423
uncovered, over a low fire for ten minutes to dry the turnips
well, stirring them frequently. Add butter and pepper and
more salt if needed.
TURNIPS IN CREAM
1 pound white or yellow 4 tablespoons flour
turnips 4 tablespoons fat
2 cups milk Salt and pepper
Pare the turnips, cut them in cubes; cook until tender.
Make a white sauce of the flour, fat, milk and seasonings. Pour
sauce over turnip cubes and serve.
TURNIP SHELLS OR CUPS
Pare the turnip and remove the center, leaving a shell one-
half inch in thickness. Cook shell in boiling water until tender.
Just before cooking is completed, add the salt. Cook the center
in the same way and use for stuffing cup or serve as mashed
turnips.
The turnip cups may be used as cases for creamed or buttered
peas, carrots, beets, or any suitable vegetable or meat.
VEGETABLE MARROW, FRIED
"Wash and pare a vegetable marrow, and scoop out the in-
side. Cook in boiling water for about fifteen minutes^ and
then drain and slice in inch slices, or cut in pieces of any desired
size. Roll in flour, dip in beaten egg which has been diluted
with water, roll in fine crumbs and fry in deep fat (395 F.).
After frying, drain the pieces on absorbent paper^ sprinkle with
salt and pepper and serve hot.
To BAKE VEGETABLE MARROW, cut in half between the ends;
peel each half, scoop out seeds and loose pulp. Fill each half with
seasoned fresh Hamburg, diced onion and bread crumbs (beef
loaf p. 246) or chopped leftover meats, chopped onion, green
or red peppers and cooked rice. Fit halves together and truss
with string or use skewers in opposite directions. Bake or simmer
in deep pot or baking dish, covered with heavy seasoned tomato
sauce, until marrow is transparent but not too well done. Serve
by slicing through so each service is a complete circle.
SALADS
CRUITS, nuts, uncooked and cooked vegetables and some
* cooked meats, fish and fowl, served cold and dressed with
condiments, oils and acids, are known as salads.
Utensils Needed for Salad Making
A chilled earthenware bowl is excellent for mixing salad in-
gredients. Two forks or a fork and a spoon are better to use
in folding together the ingredients than a spoon alone, because
they do not crush the materals so much as a single utensil.
A sharp-edged knife or vegetable cutter is necessary for slic-
ing vegetables or fruits. Where fruit pulp is to be removed
from the thin white membrane enclosing it, a thin narrow
knife slightly curved at the tip is useful. A pair of shears can
be used for many of the processes of salad making, such as
shredding lettuce, clipping off wilted or discolored edges, etc.
Various fancy shapes for molding individual salads may be
bought,- or tea-cups or small bowls may be used as molds.
Gelatin salads may be put into pans and cut in square or fancy
shapes after they have hardened. The cube trays of mechanical
refrigerators are excellent for molding gelatin,
Materials for Salads
VEGETABLES Leaf vegetables, such as head lettuce, curly
lettuce, endive, chicory, romaine, water cress, celery and cab-
bage, make very attractive salads served alone with a dressing
or in combination with other materials.
Tomatoes, cucumbers, celery, cabbage and ground carrots are
excellent uncooked materials for salad, as are also Bermuda or
Spanish onions in thin wafer-like slices or young spring onions
marinated in French dressing.
Many cooked vegetables, such as peas, carrots, beans, beets,
cauliflower, spinach, asparagus and potatoes, are used in salad
making, alone or in combination.
FRUITS The fruits most commonly used in the preparation
of salads are oranges, bananas, apples, cherries, grapefruit,
424
SALADS 425
grapes, peaches, pears and pineapple. "Watermelon or cantaloupe
adds a delicious flavor to a fruit salad.
DRIED FRUITS Dates, figs and raisins give variety to fruit
salads.
MEATS Chicken always makes a delicious salad. Veal and
pork may be combined with chicken and it is difficult to detect
their use. They may be used alone in salads, also.
Crab, lobster, shrimp, oysters, salmon, tuna fish and sardines
are most commonly used in fish salads. Any firm-fleshed cooked
fish may be diced and combined with other materials.
CHEESE Cream cheese or cottage cheese, served in mounds
on lettuce leaves, makes an attractive salad, with bar-le-duc
or other jelly or jam as a garnish. It can also be mixed with
green peppers or pimientoes, rolled in nuts, served with pine-
apple or molded in a loaf and sliced.
EGGS The most common egg salad is the "deviled egg," or
salad egg. Hard-cooked eggs can be cut in slices or quarters
or fancy shapes and served on a bed of lettuce leaves with a
dressing or used with other ingredients in a vegetable or fish
salad.
HERBS Such herbs as chervil, mint, parsley, peppergrass,
sorrel and tarragon may be added to salad to give a pungent
flavor.
Fennel (finochio) tops, or root and stem of anise flavor, dande-
lion, chard, escarole, celery cabbage or cooked zucchini are used
both as body of the salad and as flavoring. Those who have a
garden will find dill, nasturtium leaves and seeds, catnip and
rose geranium leaves usable.
Important Points in Salad Making
WASHING INGREDIENTS Wash salad greens and examine to
insure the removal of all aphids. Then soak in cold water for
half an hour to crisp, and dry on a towel or by shaking in a wire
basket.
CHILLING INGREDIENTS All ingredients, fruits, vegetables,
and dressing, should be chilled (see directions on next page for
keeping materials) before being folded together. The bowl
used should be chilled; also the plates upon which the salad is
served.
FROZEN SALADS This name may seem misleading because
pieces of fruit or vegetable in salads should never be actually
frozen. Combined with whipped cream and mayonnaise, the
426
f^^^^f
mixture is frozen like mousse, but it should not be frozen long
enough to harden the fruit or vegetable. Salads made of vege-
table or fruit pulp may be frozen. The freezing can be done
by packing in ice and salt or by placing the mixture in the
drawers of a mechanically cooled refrigerator.
KEEPING MATERIALS Lettuce, most vegetables and many
fruits may be kept for days by wrapping in a damp cloth or
paper bag and placing on ice. In a mechanically cooled refrig-
erator, lettuce and other salad greens keep best if they are
washed and placed in closely covered enamel or porcelain con-
tainers with a very little water.
CUTTING MATERIALS Salad materials should be cut in uni-
form, well-defined pieces small enough so that they will not
lose their shape in the folding process. If part of the celery to
be used is tough, cut it in fine pieces and cut the tender parts
in larger pieces. In this way the toughness will not be detected.
When both the dark and light meat of chicken are used, dice
the dark in small cubes and the light in larger cubes. This gives
a more pleasing appearance to the salad. If veal or pork is
used to extend the chicken, dice it finer than the chicken and
its presence will not be detected.
MARINATING SALADS A marinade is used to give flavor to
salad materials and is made by mixing oil, salt, and lemon-juice
or vinegar (sometimes onion- juice ). The vegetables, fish or
meat may stand an hour or so in the marinade before using.
When several vegetables are to be used, each one should be
marinated separately. For serving, these vegetables may be
combined, or placed on lettuce leaves in small individual
mounds, as preferred.
ADDITION OF SALAD DRESSING The dressing should never
be folded into the salad until time for serving, except in the
case of a salad like potato salad, when it is preferable for the
dressing to soak in.
ARRANGEMENT OF SALAD The lettuce leaf should have the
stem end cut off so that this ragged part does not hang over the
edge of the plate. Care should be taken that the garnish is
carefully placed.
Place the salad o the lettuce leaf carefully so that it will
not fall apart and spread ungracefully over the plate. No part
of the salad should extend beyond the edge of the plate.
SALADS 427
Garnishes for Salads
Chives, mint, chervil, parsley and similar small greens may be
minced and sprinkled over a green salad.
Strips of pimiento and green pepper, or a dash of paprika
may be used to give life to a colorless salad.
A chapon is a small piece of bread rubbed with garlic. When
placed in a salad-bowl it gives a delicious flavor to the salad.
The outside leaves of a head of lettuce may be used as garnish
for a salad, reserving the heart for heart-of-lettuce salad.
MOLDED SALADS
Among the most decorative ways to serve jellied salad are the
form mold and the ring mold. The latter lends itself to many
additional touches since the center may be used for decorative
vegetables, a pile of cut jelly of contrasting color or the bowl
of salad dressing. Of exact size to fit, the bowl may be of glass,
china or silver. Be sure the plate onto which the ring is un-
molded is large enough for all the decoration planned. See page
344.
COLD MARINADE
3 tablespoons oil 1 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons lemon- juice or l /2 teaspoon pepper
vinegar l /z teaspoon onion-juice
For fish, use three tablespoons vinegar and three tablespoons
lemon-juice. Mix the ingredients thoroughly in the order
given. The onion-juice may be omitted.
For hot marinade, see Index.
Vegetable Salads
ASPARAGUS SALAD
6 rings cut from green pepper Lettuce leaves
or lemon French dressing
24 stalks cold boiled aspara- l /2 tablespoon tomato
gus, fresh or canned catchup
Cut rings about one-third inch wide. If lemon is used, re-
move the pulp, leaving only the peel. Slip four stalks of cold
ENCHANTING GOSSAMER IN
AN ASPIC JELL DISGUISES
STURDY CABBAGE AND CAR-
ROTS IN A TEMPTING SALAD
MOLD .-.-.. .:::,:jl- ,
ill
DESIGNED TO
COAX JADED
APPETITES
COOKED VEGE-
TABLES WITH A
PALATE-TEAS-
ING HOLLAN-
DAISE SAUCE
FRESH AS THE DEW ON YOUR
GARDEN FLOWERS IS THIS DE-
LICIOUS SALAD BOWL
jit* Ji
428
NXV/V^
asparagus through each ring and arrange on crisp lettuce leaves.
Place each serving on a salad plate or arrange all attractively
on a platter with serving spoon and fork. Serve with French
dressing to which tomato catchup has been added.
CABBAGE SALADS AND ASPIC
Select a small firm head. Cut it in half and with a sharp knife
or a slaw cutter slice it very thin. Cover with cold water and let
stand one-half hour. Drain, wrap in a cloth and place on ice or
in a cold place until ready to use. Combine with any salad dress-
ing, or fold into one package of gelatin prepared according to
directions, and mold.
COLE SLAW No. 1
l /2 head cabbage 1 teaspoon mustard
6 eggs 2 teaspoons melted butter
l /2 cup sugar % CU P vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
Cut the cabbage in several parts, and wash it well. Remove
the core and any wilted or tough leaves and chop the remainder
with a sharp knife. Cook the eggs hard, chop five of them,
place the chopped cabbage in a salad bowl, add the chopped
eggs, and toss and fold lightly together. Mix the sugar, salt,
mustard, melted butter and vinegar and pour this liquid over
the cabbage and eggs. Toss again lightly with a fork held in
each hand, arrange in a dish, and garnish with the remaining
egg cut in slices.
COLE SLAW No. 2
l /4 cup vinegar 1 tablespoon butter or other
1 l /z teaspoons salt fat
l /4 teaspoon pepper 2 tablespoons cream
1 tablespoon sugar 3 cups cabbage
3 eggs
Heat vinegar and seasonings (including the sugar and fat)
to boiling, beat eggs and add hot vinegar mixture to them very
slowly. Cook in double boiler until the mixture thickens and
then add cream. Remove the dressing from the fire and pour
it while hot over the cabbage. Garnish with rings of hard-
cooked eggs and serve when cold.
SALADS 429
CARDINAL SALAD
2 large beets Mayonnaise made with vine-
2 tablespoons vinegar gar from beets
l /2 cup wax beans Lettuce
l /2 cup peas Radishes for a garnish
l /2 cup asparagus tips
Boil beets until tender, slice, cover with vinegar and let stand
until the following day. Drain off the vinegar and use it in
making the mayonnaise. Arrange beans, peas, asparagus tips
and mayonnaise in little rose-like nests of lettuce leaves, and
garnish with radishes.
CARROT SALAD
1 cup grated raw carrot 1 tablespoon lemon-juice
1 cup chopped raw cabbage l /2 teaspoon salt
or celery, or cabbage and Mayonnaise or boiled dressing
celery combined Lettuce leaves
Mix the ingredients well and serve on crisp lettuce leaves.
The grated carrot may be served alone on lettuce or may be
combined with cold boiled peas, with chopped nuts and apples,
or with onions and radishes.
CAULIFLOWER AND SHRIMP SALAD
1 cauliflower Lettuce
Mayonnaise dressing Cooked shrimps
Cook the cauliflower in boiling water, drain, and put it, head
down, into a bowl. When cold, place it, stem down, on a shal-
low dish and cover with mayonnaise. Garnish with lettuce ar-
ranged to resemble the leaves of the cauliflower, and add little
clusters of shrimps.
CELERY SALAD
2 cups celery Strips of pimiento or green
l / 2 cup mayonnaise pepper and celery curls
After thoroughly washing the celery allow it to crisp in cold
water. Then wipe it dry, cut it into inch lengths and these
into lengthwise strips. Place them in a salad-bowl, and add
sufficient mayonnaise dressing to moisten the whole. Garnish
43
Ny^./V-'
with the pimiento or pepper and the celery curls. Serve at once.
Celery salad admits of a wide range of additions, any cold meat,
fish or fowl left from a previous meal being palatable served
in it.
CELERY CURLS These are made from the tender inner
stalks. Cut in lengths of two or three inches and slit in nar-
row strips almost to the end. Place in water with plenty of
ice. As the slit stalks chill, the ends curl.
CRESS SALAD
1 pint water cress 1 onion French dressing
Pick over the leaves of the cress carefully, removing all
bruised or wilted ones, wash and drain, and with the fingers
break the stems into two-inch lengths. Lay the cress in a salad
bowl, chop the onion very fine, strew it over the cress, add
French dressing and serve.
CRESS AND DANDELION SALAD
1 cup water cress 6 thin slices raw onion
1 cup dandelion greens French dressing
The dandelion should be fresh and young. Wash the leaves
carefully and drain well. Arrange them in a salad bowl with
the cress. Add the slices of onion and pour the French dressing
over all.
CRESS AND WALNUT SALAD
l /2 cup walnut meats 1 pint -water cress
1 lemon French dressing
Crack walnuts and remove their meats as nearly as possible
in halves. Squeeze over them the juice of the lemon and let
them stand for a short time. Pick over the water cress and
wash it carefully. Drain it on a napkin and at the last moment
drench it with French dressing. Spread the nuts over it and
give them also a generous sprinkling of the dressing.
CUCUMBER SALAD
3 cucumbers Salt French dressing
Cut about an inch off the point of each cucumber, and pare
carefully. Slice very thin, sprinkle with a little salt, and let
stand ten minutes. Serve with French dressing.
SALADS 431
CUCUMBER JELLY SALAD
1 pint grated cucumber 2 teaspoons cold water
Salt and paprika 6 halves of walnut-meats
2 tablespoons vinegar Mayonnaise
1 tablespoon oil Lettuce leaves
1 teaspoon gelatin
Peel cucumbers, removing most of the white as well as the
green skin. Grate enough to give one pint and season with salt,
paprika, vinegar and oil. Add gelatin mixed with cold water.
Place over the fire until warm and well mixed. Do not boil.
In the bottom of an individual mold put a half kernel of wal-
nut, then pour in the cucumber mixture and when it has cooled,
chill. When ready to serve, turn each mold on to a nest of
young lettuce leaves, and add a spoonful of mayonnaise.
LETTUCE SALAD
Choose for this the crisp center of the lettuce. "Wash it, dry
it well, pull to pieces or cut it into four or six sections, and
arrange it in a salad bowl. Pour over the center of the dish
any dressing preferred. Mayonnaise is frequently used, and
Russian dressing is used even more frequently, perhaps, but
with a heavy dinner the French dressing is to be preferred to
any other.
The following vegetables may be used instead of or with let-
tuce: endive, peppergrass, water cress, nasturtium leaves, spin-
ach, chicory, sorrel, dandelion, escarole, and romaine.
LETTUCE AND ONION SALAD
2 lettuce hearts French dressing 1 Spanish onion
Strip off, and set aside for some other purpose, the green
leaves of lettuce. Wash the hearts, pull them to pieces or cut
into sections, and drop into ice-water to crisp them. Peel
the Spanish onion and cut it into thin shavings. Shake the
lettuce in a colander or wire basket to free it from water or dry
on a towel. Fill the salad bowl with alternate layers of the
lettuce and onion slices, sprinkling on each layer a little French
dressing.
432
^Ny^^^/^^K^V^X^-N^^^N^^^^^X-N^^.
POTATO SALAD
No. 1.
1 quart potatoes 2 tablespoons grated onion
2 tablespoons chopped parsley French dressing to moisten
Boil the potatoes with skins on and allow them to cool before
peeling, as it is considered a good thing to have potatoes waxy
rather than mealy for salad. Peel potatoes, cut into small pieces
or thin slices, and mix with parsley, onion, and French dressing.
Set in a cool place for two hours before serving.
No. 2.
1 quart new potatoes 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon oil Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons vinegar Thin mayonnaise or boiled
1 onion dressing
2 stalks celery Cut beets
1 tablespoon capers Lettuce, lemon
Boil potatoes until done, but not too soft, slice them when
cookd and add oil and vinegar. Chop onion and celery very
fine, and add, with capers, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste.
Pour a thin mayonnaise over all, mixing thoroughly with a
wooden spoon and fork. Garnish with lettuce, a few pieces of
lemon and cut beets.
POTATO AND PEA SALAD
2 cups boiled potatoes, diced l / 2 cup French dressing
1 cup boiled peas Lettuce, mayonnaise
Pour two-thirds of the French dressing over the diced pota-
toes, and the other third over the cold peas, and set where they
will be chilled. After an hour, combine them and arrange on
lettuce leaves. Garnish with mayonnaise.
SPINACH SALAD
1 pint spinach 2 hard-cooked eggs French dressing
Wash spinach carefully. Select only thick, tender leaves (save
others and stems for cooking) . If too large, tear to size. Shake
off excess water. Chop whites and yolks of eggs separately and
turn into bowl with leaves. Moisten with tart French dressing.
Add any mild-flavored vegetable.
SALADS 433
TOMATO AND LETTUCE SALAD
No. 1.
3 tomatoes Lettuce leaves 6 tablespoons French dressing
Scald the tomatoes, remove the skins and chill the tomatoes.
Just before serving time, cut them in halves, crosswise, and
place one piece, with the outside upward, on each serving-plate
with one or two leaves of white, crisp lettuce underneath. Pour
over each portion a tablespoon of French dressing.
No. 2.
3 tomatoes % to l /2 cup French dressing
Lettuce 1 tablespoon capers
Select smooth tomatoes about two inches in diameter. Scald,
peel and chill. Cut in quarters or in slices and arrange on a
plate with lettuce leaves or sections of lettuce hearts. Add
the capers to the dressing.
TOMATO AND CELERY SALAD
6 tomatoes % to l /2 cup mayonnaise
2 cups celery, diced Lettuce leaves
Select firm tomatoes of a good size, scald, peel and chill, cut
a slice from the top of each, and scoop out all the seeds and
soft pulp, being careful not to break the sides. Cut celery into
small dice, mix it with mayonnaise dressing, fill the shells with
mixture, place one teaspoon .of the dressing on top of each
tomato and serve individually on a bed of lettuce leaves, plac-
ing three or four small leaves on each plate and the tomato in
the center.
TOMATO SURPRISE SALAD
6 tomatoes ]/ 4 cup mayonnaise dressing
3 /4 cup diced cucumber Lettuce
1/2 cup diced, cooked chicken Parsley, cauliflower buds
1/4 cup chopped nuts
^ Select medium-sized smooth tomatoes. Scald, peel and chill.
Carefully scoop the inside out of the tomatoes. Remove the
seeds from the pulp. Chill all ingredients, and when ready to
serve, mix the chicken, cucumber, tomato pulp, and nuts with
434
^VXN-/V^
the mayonnaise dressing. Add more salt if needed. Fill the
tomatoes. Arrange on lettuce leaves. Garnish with mayonnaise
and decorate each tomato top with parsley and cauliflower buds.
TOMATO JELLY SALAD
3 cups stewed tomatoes, 1 teaspoon sugar
fresh or canned Salt
l /4 cup chopped onion 1 tablespoon gelatin
l /2 cup chopped celery l / 2 cup cold water
1 bay-leaf 1 clove Lettuce
l / 4 green pepper pod Mayonnaise
Cook tomatoes with seasonings. Soak gelatin in cold water,
add to boiling tomatoes, strain and pour into cups about the
size of a tomato. Make a nest of small green lettuce leaves for
each mold when serving, and place one tablespoon of mayon-
naise on top of each tomato as it is turned from the mold.
Tomato jelly is often molded in a square pan and cut in
diamonds or cubes, when it makes an attractive garnish.
TOMATO ROSE SALAD
Firm tomatoes Hard-cooked egg yolk
Cream cheese Watercress or lettuce
Milk French dressing
Peel tomatoes and chill them. Slightly soften cream cheese
with milk. Form two rows of petals on each tomato by pressing
level teaspoons of the softened cheese against the side of the to-
mato, then drawing the teaspoon down with a curving motion.
Sprinkle center of each tomato with hard-cooked egg yolk
pressed through a strainer. Serve on crisp watercress or lettuce
with French dressing.
FROZEN FRUIT SALAD
1 pint cream 1 teaspoon powdered sugar
l l /2 cups cut up fruit (fresh, 1 teaspoon instantaneous
canned, or candied cherries, gelatin
peaches, pineapple, etc.) 2 tablespoons cold water
% cup mayonnaise Lettuce
Soak the gelatin in the cold water, melt it over steam, and
beat it into the mayonnaise. Add the sugar to the cream and
SALADS 435
whip it, then combine with the mayonnaise. Stir in the cut-up
fruit. Pack and freeze as directed in the preceding recipe. The
mayonnaise may be omitted and served separately.
ALLIGATOR PEAR SALAD
2 alligator pears French dressing
Lettuce leaves
The alligator pear, or avocado, is now available in all markets
at very reasonable prices throughout the greater part of the
year. Cut each pear into six pieces, giving wedge-shaped sec-
tions, and if these are too large, cut each section again length-
wise. Peel and arrange wedges on beds of lettuce leaves. Either
French dressing or Russian dressing may be used, but the fruit
is so rich that French dressing is preferred by most people.
APRICOT AND BANANA SALAD
2 cups lettuce leaves, shredded Whipped cream or boiled
1 cup sliced bananas dressing
6 stewed apricots
On each plate arrange a bed of shredded lettuce, and on it
place a layer of sliced ripe bananas, topped by the halves of an
apricot. Serve with whipped cream or boiled dressing.
BANANA AND NUT SALAD
3 well ripened bananas l /z cup mayonnaise or boiled
Yz cup chopped nuts dressing
6 leaves lettuce
Peel bananas and cut in two lengthwise. Roll each half in
nut-meats. Place on lettuce leaf and garnish with dressing.
Equal parts of dressing and whipped cream may be used.
COCONUT, CELERY AND APPLE SALAD
1 1 /2 cups mixed diced tart 4 tablespoons orange- juice
apples and celery Salt
Yz cup shredded coconut Paprika
1 tablespoon lemon- juice Lettuce leaves
4 tablespoons oil Currant or plum jelly
Mix the apples, celery, and coconut. Sprinkle with the
lemon -juice. Add a French dressing made from the oil and
PEELED MELON FILLED WITH
TOMATO ASPIC AND FROSTED
WITH CREAM CHEESE
NATURE IN THE RAW IS EN-ff
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STUFFED TOMATO
WITH SPOONED PET-
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BECOMES A ROSE
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DELIGHTFUL TO EAT
NOT PLUCKED FROM AN ITAL-
IAN VINEYARD BUT FASHIONED
WITH PEAR, FROSTED WITH
CREAM CHEESE AND STUDDED
WITH HALF CRAPES FOR IN-
DIVIDUAL SALADS AT FORMAL
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orange-juice, with salt and paprika to taste. Line a salad-bowl
with lettuce leaves and pile chilled salad in center. Dot with
currant or plum jelly.
FRENCH FRUIT SALAD
1 orange 1 dozen walnuts
1 banana Lettuce
l /2 pound Malaga grapes French dressing
Peel the oranges and cut the sections from the membrane
with a sharp knife or a pair of shears. If the fruit is allowed
to stand in cold water after peeling, the bitter white membrane
will come off easily.
Peel the bananas and cut in quarter-inch slices. Remove the
skins and seeds from the grapes. Break in small pieces, but
do not chop, the walnut-meats. Mix these ingredients
thoroughly and place on ice. When ready to serve, place or
lettuce leaves and serve with French dressing.
GRAPEFRUIT SALAD
Peel grapefruit and free the sections from all membrane and
seeds. Cut sections in half, crosswise; lay on bed of lettuce
leaves and serve with French dressing. Sprinkle with tarragon
leaves or with mint if desired.
GRAPEFRUIT AND GRAPE SALAD
2 cups grapefruit sections l /2 cup Malaga grapes, peeled
2 tablespoons grape- juice and seeded
2 tablespoons French dressing
Peel fine large grapefruit and separate the sections, removing
every particle of the bitter white inner skin. Peel and seed the
grapes and mix with the grapefruit. Set, covered, in the refrig-
erator until very cold. Pour over them the grape- juice and
French dressing.
WHITE GRAPE SALAD
1 pound Malaga grapes Lettuce French dressing or mayonnaise
Peel grapes and remove the seeds by cutting the grapes almost
in two, with a thin sharp knife. Arrange on lettuce leaves
and serve with French dressing or mayonnaise.
SALADS 437
ORANGE SALAD
Peel oranges and free the sections entirely from the mem-
brane. Remove seeds, cut sections in halves crosswise, lay on
bed of lettuce leaves, and serve with French dressing. Sprinkle
with tarragon or with minced green pepper, if desired. Minced
celery may be added.
No. 1. PEAR SALAD
3 pears French dressing
Lettuce leaves Strips of pimiento
After paring the fruit, cut in eighths lengthwise and remove
seeds. Arrange on lettuce leaves and serve with French dressing
made from oil and lemon-juice. Garnish with strips of pi-
miento. The dressing will prevent discoloration if it is poured
over the pears at once.
No. 2.
6 pears l / 2 cup broken walnut-meats
6 stalks celery and stoned olives, chopped
Mayonnaise Lettuce leaves
Salt and pepper
Select well-formed pears and cut off a bit of the broad end
so that the pear will stand steadily on the plate. With a potato-
ball cutter remove the center, leaving enough of the pear to
make a thick cup. Cut the celery into dice, add broken walnut-
meats and chopped olives and mix all together with mayonnaise,
adding a pinch of salt and pepper. Fill the pear cups and serve
on lettuce leaves.
PEAR AND CHERRY SALAD
6 halves of stewed pears, 36 white cherries
fresh or canned Boiled dressing or mayon-
Lettuce leaves naise
Place the half pears on crisp lettuce leaves. Stone the cherries
and arrange them around the pears. Serve with preferred dress-
ing.
438
PINEAPPLE AND NUT SALAD IN TOMATO
BASKETS
1 cup crushed pineapple 6 tomatoes
1 cup broken nut-meats Mayonnaise
French dressing Salt
Mix pineapple with nut-meats and stand in French dressing
in the refrigerator. Peel and cut off the top of each tomato
leaving a strip to form a handle. Carefully scoop out the center
and fill with the pineapple and nuts. Place one teaspoon of
mayonnaise on top of each basket.
PINEAPPLE AND CREAM CHEESE SALAD
6 slices canned pineapple French dressing
1 cup cream cheese Lettuce leaves
Purple grape-juice
Work enough grape -juice into the cream cheese to soften it
so that it can be made into balls with the hands or with butter
paddles. Place a slice of pineapple on a lettuce leaf, put a cheese
ball on top and pour grape-juice and French dressing over all.
TROPICAL SALAD
1 cup cantaloup balls Any desired dressing
6 slices tomatoes Lettuce leaves
Garnish of red pepper
With a vegetable cutter, cut small balls from a cantaloup
that is fairly firm in texture. Arrange several balls on a slice
of tomato which has been placed on a nest of lettuce leaves.
Garnish with pieces of red pepper or green pepper cut in dia-
mond shapes. Serve with any desired dressing.
WALDORF SALAD
1 cup diced apple French dressing
1 cup diced celery Lettuce leaves
l /2 cup broken walnut-meats Mayonnaise
Fold together the apple, celery, and nuts with French dress-
ing and serve on lettuce leaves with mayonnaise. Do not allow
SALADS
this to stand long before serving, as the nuts will discolor the
fruit.
WASHINGTON SALAD
% cup chopped celery % cup canned cherries
% cup bottoms of artichokes, % cup diced grapefruit pulp
chopped Cheese straws
Pile cheese straws in log-cabin style, on a large plate, leaving
a center space sufficient to hold the salad. Mix celery, arti-
chokes, cherries and grapefruit pulp with French dressing and
decorate with a large spoon of mayonnaise. Serve two cheese
straws with each portion of salad.
FROZEN CHEESE SALAD
1/2 pound cream cheese % P cream > whipped
1 green pepper, chopped 2 to 4 teaspoons salt, celery
1 cup crushed pineapple salt, mustard, paprika,
l / 2 cup mayonnaise mixed according to taste
Soften the cheese. Add pepper, mayonnaise, pineapple and
seasonings and fold in with whipped cream. Freeze.
CREAM CHEESE SALAD
\ l /2 cups cream cheese or Lettuce leaves
cottage cheese French dressing
Arrange crisp lettuce leaves on a salad-dish and press cream
cheese through a potato-ricer upon them, The cheese must be
thoroughly chilled before making a salad, and it should be
served immediately. Use French dressing and pass bar-le-duc
or guava jelly or any preferred fruit jam or jelly with it.
COMBINATION CREAM CHEESE BALL SALAD
% cup cream cheese % cup chopped nut-meats or
% cup chopped celery chopped parsley
2 tablespoons chopped olives French dressing
Lettuce leaves
Mix cream cheese with chopped celery and olives and form
into balls about the size of a large hickory nut. Roll each
440
37\SV
ball in chopped nut-meats or chopped parsley. Arrange on
lettuce leaves and serve with French dressing.
PEAR-GRAPE SALAD Frost the curved surface of one-half
pear with cream cheese, stud with one-half grapes and garnish
with chicory and watercress, or other attractive greens.
LETTUCE AND CHEESE SALAD
No. 1.
1 cup hard cheese l /z cup shredded lettuce
Milk or cream 5/2 cup pimiento strips
Pepper and salt Lettuce leaves
6 chopped olives Boiled or mayonnaise dressing
Put the cheese through a food-grinder and moisten slightly
with milk or cream. Add pepper and salt to taste. Add
chopped olives, shredded lettuce and pimiento strips. Press this
mixture into the form of a brick and, when cool and firm, cut
in slices. Place on lettuce leaves and serve with boiled or mayon-
naise dressing.
FROSTED MELON MOLD
Melon Milk
Fruit gelatin Curly endive or chicory
Cream cheese French or mayonnaise dressing
Peel a whole melon. Cut a slice from end and remove seeds.
Fill center with fruit gelatin and refrigerate until gelatin is
firm. Slightly soften cheese with milk and frost the entire out-
side of melon. Serve in slices on crisp chicory, with dressing.
EGG AND PEANUT SALAD WITH CELERY
6 hard-cooked eggs Mayonnaise
l /4 to l /2 cup chopped peanuts Celery curls
or peanut butter Garnish of peanut halves
Cut the eggs in half lengthwise, remove the yolks and com-
bine with chopped peanuts or peanut butter and mayonnaise to
moisten. Fill the whites with this mixture. Put two halves
of egg on a plate, surround with curls of celery. Put two
tablespoons of mayonnaise dressing over each egg and garnish
with peanut halves. Lay a halved peanut on each celery
curl.
SALADS 441
SALAD EGGS
6 hard-cooked eggs 1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon anchovy paste
1 tablespoon cream Lettuce or cress
l /2 teaspoon mustard Garnish of radishes and small
Pinch cayenne onions
Remove the shells from the cold, hard-cooked eggs and cut
a large piece from the top of each, take out the yolks and mix
them to form a paste with butter, cream, mustard, cayenne,
salt and anchovy paste. Put this mixture back into the hollows
and lay the eggs on a dish of lettuce or cress. Garnish with
radishes and small onions.
DAISY SALAD
6 hard-cooked eggs l /2 cup mayonnaise
12 lettuce leaves
Cut the whites of eggs into rings and mix the yolks with the
mayonnaise. On a platter arrange lettuce leaves to form cups.
On these cups arrange the egg rings to simulate daisy petals and
heap the yolks in the center. Cold string beans, boiled whole,
may be used to simulate foliage if desired.
MISCELLANEOUS COMBINATIONS FOR FRUIT
AND VEGETABLE SALADS
1. Avocado, grapefruit, romaine radish, olive, in a pagoda
2. Avocado, orange and cress 10. Endive, carrot sticks and
3. Avocado, peeled white grapes grapefruit
and chicory H- Shredded carrot, Chinese cab-
4. Avocado, tangerine, pecans ba g e and romaine
and lettuce 12 - Orange, Bermuda onion and
5. Avocado, tart apple and romaine
romaine 1 ^' Tomato, cucumber, celery and
6. Chicory, escarole and grape-
cumber, green pepper and
7. Chicory, shredded cabbage pimiento
and lettuce 15. Green peas, peanuts, mint
8. Escarole, Chinese cabbage and leaves and lettuce
cress 16. Dandelion, escarole, pimiento
9. Chinese cabbage, tomato slice, and onion
442
Meat and Fish Salads
CHICKEN SALAD
2 cups diced chicken Garnish of celery tops, beets
1 cup diced celery cut into dice, capers, egg-
Mayonnaise yolks, etc.
Lettuce
Left-over chicken makes a very good salad. To prepare a
chicken especially for salad, rub well with salt and pepper, place
one small onion and one bay-leaf inside, wrap with a napkin,
tie securely and steam for three hours, or until a fork can be
easily turned around in the meat. "When the chicken is cold,
cut the meat into pieces of convenient size for eating. The
most carefully made salads contain only white meat, but the
dark meat has a juiciness and flavor not possessed by the breast.
If dark meat is used, cut it into smaller cubes than the white
meat and the white will predominate in appearance. Marinate
the cut up chicken and let it stand. Make a mayonnaise dress-
ing, stir part of it into the celery, place the celery on a thin
layer of lettuce or arrange it directly upon the salad-dish and
garnish the edge with the tips of the celery. Heap the chicken
mixture in the center, pour over it the remainder of the mayon-
naise, and garnish with white celery tops, boiled beets cut in
dice, capers, cold hard-cooked egg-yolks that have been pressed
through a colander, or any other garnish that pleases the fancy.
CRAB SALAD
1 cup crab-meat, fresh or Garnish of crab claws, hard-
canned cooked eggs, parsley, celery
French dressing tops, etc.
Mayonnaise
If fresh crabs are used, prepare as directed. (See Index.)
Cut up an amount of celery equal to crab-meat. Marinate
with French dressing. Place the mixture in the salad-bowl,
pour over the top a mayonnaise dressing and garnish with crab
claws and hard-cooked eggs in alternation with bits of green,
such as parsley, and the leaves of the celery.
Canned crabs make very good salad. If there is any oil in
the can, drain it off; sprinkle the crabs well with salt and vine-
gar, and drain again before adding the dressing.
SALADS 443
FISH SALAD
1 pound flaked, cooked fish 1 cup chopped celery
2 tablespoons oil Lettuce
1 tablespoon vinegar Mayonnaise
The remains of almost any cold fish may be used in salad
very satisfactorily, but the salad is more successful when made
of fish that will flake nicely, such as salmon, cod, haddock, or
halibut. Remove the bones, pick the fish into flakes, turn over
it oil mixed with vinegar and set away in a cold place. When
about to serve, chop celery and add to the fish. Arrange crisp
white leaves of lettuce in cup shapes on a platter, using one or
two leaves for each, then lay one spoonful of the mixture in
each cup and pour over it one spoonful of mayonnaise.
LOBSTER SALAD
1 1 /2 cups diced lobster meat Mayonnaise
l /2 cup diced celery Lettuce
Vinegar
Prepare lobster as directed (see Index). Remove the meat
and the coral. Cut the meat into pieces of convenient size for
eating. Sprinkle a very little vinegar over the lobster, but keep
the celery crisp until it is time to make the salad. Then mix
the lobster meat and celery together, stir in enough mayonnaise
to moisten and flavor the whole. Arrange the salad on the
center of a bed of crisp white lettuce bordered with green let-
tuce leaves laid under the outer edges. Pour on the remainder
of the mayonnaise and sprinkle over it the coral, well pounded,
and, if liked, a few capers. Garnish with the claws. Some-
times lettuce leaves are arranged on a platter in cup-like clusters
of two or three each, and the salad is divided equally among
the clusters. The salad may be served in the cleaned lobster
shells.
OYSTER SALAD
1 quart oysters 2 tablespoons vinegar
1 tablespoon oil 1 tablespoon lemon-juice
l /z teaspoon salt 1 pint celery
l /s teaspoon pepper y z cup mayonnaise
Clean the oysters (see Index) and place them in a stew-pan
on the fire, adding no water. When they are boiling, drain
444
vxv^v^
them in a colander; place them in an earthenware dish, and
add the oil, salt, pepper, vinegar and lemon-juice. When cold,
set in the refrigerator for at least two hours. Cut the white
part of the celery into very thin slices, and place it in a bowl
in the refrigerator. "When ready to serve, drain the celery, mix
with the oysters and half of the mayonnaise. Turn the whole
into a salad-bowl, and pour over it the rest of the dressing.
Garnish with white celery leaves and serve at once.
If preferred, lettuce leaves may be arranged on a large platter
in groups of two or three to form cups and in each cup may be
dropped four or five oysters with one spoonful of mayonnaise
poured over them. A tiny spray of parsley may be thrust into
the sauce at the center of each cup.
SALMON SALAD
1 cup cold boiled salmon, 1 cup shredded cabbage or
fresh or canned chopped celery
Mayonnaise Lettuce leaves
Combine salmon, broken in flakes, and shredded cabbage or
celery. Serve with mayonnaise on lettuce leaves.
SARDINE SALAD
% cup sardines Lettuce leaves
% cup hard-cooked egg Mayonnaise or French dressing
1 cucumber
Remove the skin and bones from sardines and mix with
chopped hard-cooked eggs. Cut cucumber in thin slices and
arrange on lettuce leaves. Add sardine and egg mixture. Serve
with mayonnaise or French dressing.
SHRIMP SALAD
1 pint cooked shrimps or Lettuce, shredded celery, or
prawns shaved cabbage
Marinade Maynonaise or other dressing
Marinate the shrimps and serve whole on lettuce, shredded
celery, or shaved cabbage, and cover well with a mayonnaise
of other dressing. Canned shrimps are excellent for salads.
SALADS 445
SPINACH AND HAM SALAD
2 cups cooked spinach Any desired dressing
6 slices cold boiled ham Lettuce leaves
Drain the spinach and season with salt, pepper, and either
vinegar or lemon- juice. Pack tightly in twelve small molds
to cool. Place slices of cold boiled ham on young lettuce leaves
and place two molds of spinach on opposite sides of each slice
of ham. Serve with my salad dressing desired.
SWEETBREAD SALAD
1 pair sweetbreads Ys teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon vinegar 6 heart leaves lettuce
l / 2 tablespoon oil 1 cup celery, thinly sliced
l / 2 teaspoon salt 1 cup mayonnaise
Prepare sweetbreads (see Index) ; cut in cubes, add oil,
vinegar, salt and pepper, and place in the refrigerator for one
hour. Prepare the lettuce and celery, and put them also in the
refrigerator. Just before serving time, fold the celery and
sweetbreads together and add half the dressing. Arrange the
lettuce leaves on a flat dish, divide the sweetbread mixture into
six parts, and place one part on each leaf. Put the remainder of
the dressing upon the salad and serve at once.
TUNAFISH SALAD
Follow directions given for fish salad, on page 443.
ESCAROLE BOWI^-CHICKEN LIVER DRESSING
Wash a head of chicory and a head of escarole, pick over
carefully, soak in cold water and dry thoroughly. Make the
following dressing: Wash two chicken livers and boil until
tender with a carrot, an onion, a piece of celery and a bunch
of parsley. Add the bouillon to your soup stock. Rub the livers
and yolks of 2 hard-cooked eggs through a sieve. Add l l / 2
teaspoons French mustard, pepper, salt and mix to a paste. Add
2 tablespoons olive oil, drop by drop, a teaspoon red wine vinegar
and a tablespoon red wine. Pour this over the greens and toss
well. Serve cold.
SALAD DRESSINGS
HHERE are three kinds of salad dressings which are the
-* foundation for practically all others used: French dress-
ing, mayonnaise dressing and boiled dressing.
French Dressing
French dressing, made from oil and acid, is the most widely
used dressing. Vinegar is the acid generally used with the oil
in vegetable and meat salads, while in fruit salads the juice of
lemons, grapefruit or oranges is used.
The choice of oils to be used in dressing is an individual
matter. Olive oil has the most distinct flavor. With cotton-
seed or corn oil the amount of condiments used may be slightly
increased if desired.
Serve French dressing with chicken, fish, meat, vegetable and
fruit salads.
FRENCH DRESSING
1 clove garlic (optional) 1 tablespoon salt
1 cup vinegar 1 teaspoon paprika
2 teaspoons dry mustard ^ teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon sugar 2 cups salad oil
If using garlic, soak it in vinegar l /z hour before mixing
the dressing. Mix dry ingredients together and place 'in a covered
jar or bottle. Remove garlic from vinegar and add vinegar to
dry ingredients. Pour on the oil slowly. Place in refrigerator
until ready for use. Just before serving, shake vigorously for
2 minutes. Makes 3 cups dressing.
VARIATIONS TARRAGON DRESSING: Tarragon vinegar may
be used. Mustard, sugar and paprika may be omitted.
FOR FRUIT SALADS: Use % cup each of lemon or lime and
orange juice in place of half the vinegar. Reduce mustard to l / 2
teaspoon, salt to 1 teaspoon and paprika to l /2 teaspoon. Increase
sugar to % CU P- Add l /z teaspoon Worcestershire sauce and
omit pepper and garlic.
446
SALAD DRESSINGS 447
DIETER'S DRESSING: Use mineral oil for olive or salad oil.
VARIATIONS using */z recipe French Dressing as foundation
ANCHOVY: Cream 2 tablespoons anchovy paste with season-
ings. Add 1 tablespoon each of minced onion and parsley.
CHIFFON ADE: Add 2 tablespoons each of chopped green
pepper, olives, parsley, pimiento and 1 hard-cooked egg, chopped.
Add chopped red peppers and cooked beets, if desired.
CURRY: Add J/z teaspoon curry powder and a few drops
onion juice.
HORSE-RADISH: Add 4 tablespoons grated horse-radish (juice
pressed out) l /2 clove garlic, crushed and a dash of cayenne.
MINT: Add 2 tablespoons chopped mint.
OLIVE: Add l /2 cup chopped ripe or stuffed olives.
PARMESAN: Add 4 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese.
PICKLE: Add % cup minced pickles.
ROQUEFORT: Add 4 tablespoons crushed Roquefort cheese,
1 to 1 1 /2 teaspoons onion juice or finely chopped chives and a
dash of Tabasco sauce or cayenne pepper.
LEMON FRENCH DRESSING
1/2 cup lemon juice 1 teaspoon paprika
1/2 cup salad oil 2 tablespoons sugar or
1 teaspoon salt honey
Combine ingredients in the order listed. Shake well before
serving. If desired, add l /z teaspoon celery seed and clove of
garlic. Makes 1 cup dressing.
If a clear dressing is desired, omit paprika and substitute a
dash of pepper.
HAWAII FRENCH DRESSING
1/4 cup pineapple juice 1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons lemon juice i/ 2 teaspoon salt
1/2 CU P salad oil l/ 2 teaspoon paprika
Combine ingredients, chill. Shake or beat thoroughly before
serving. This recipe is adapted for use with mixed fruit salads.
Makes 7 /s cup.
VARIATIONS BANANA FRENCH DRESSING: Add 2 thor-
oughly mashed ripe bananas and % teaspoon nutmeg.
RUBY FRENCH DRESSING: Add 1 to 1 l /z teaspoons grenadine
or maraschino cherry juice.
448 __
MAYONNAISE DRESSING
No. 1.
2 uncooked egg yolks y & teaspoon mustard
1/2 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons vinegar or
1/4 teaspoon pepper lemon juice
Y 4 teaspoon paprika 2 cups salad oil
To yolks, add dry seasonings, beat thoroughly, add vinegar
or lemon juice and beat again. Add oil gradually (drop by drop
at first) beating hard between additions. The mixture should
be thick and creamy. Should mayonnaise curdle, begin with a
third egg yolk, add a small quantity of oil to the egg, and then
by very small quantities, add the curdled dressing. At times a
dressing may be quite firm when left, only to be found curdled
and disappointing when the time comes to use it. This third
egg process will, however, usually restore it. Equal proportions
of vinegar and lemon juice may be used. Tarragon vinegar is
sometimes used to give an interesting flavor.
No. 2.
1" egg yolk, hard cooked y 4 teaspoon Worcestershire
1 egg yolk, uncooked sauce
y 2 teaspoon sugar 1 cup salad oil
y 2 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons vinegar
y^ teaspoon pepper or lemon juice
y 2 teaspoon prepared mustard
Place hard-cooked egg yolk in a bowl and mash it fine. When
the yolk is like powder, add uncooked yolk and stir until mix-
ture is smooth, then add sugar, salt, pepper, mustard and sauce.
When the whole is well mixed, add oil gradually, stirring con-
stantly, and thin as necessary with vinegar or lemon juice. Chill
for 1 hour before using.
Originally, only a spoon was used in beating this dressing,
however, now a wire whisk, small wooden spoon, rotary egg
beater or a four-tined fork may be used.
COLORED MAYONNAISE: To color mayonnaise red, add lobster
paste, raspberry or cooked beet pulp or juice from raspberries
or beets; for green color add chopped fresh spinach, parsley or
concentrated liquor from boiled artichokes.
DIETER'S MAYONNAISE: Use mineral oil for salad oil.
SALAD DRESSINGS 449
MAYONNAISE VARIATIONS Foundation 1 cup mayonnaise.
APPETIZER MAYONNAISE: Rub bowl with garlic and beat in
2 cups French Dressing (page 446).
CHILI SAUCE MAYONNAISE: Add l / 2 teaspoon lemon juice,
2 teaspoons chili sauce, l / 2 teaspoon confectioners' sugar and
1 teaspoon horse-radish.
CORONATION MAYONNAISE: Add 1 tablespoon each of lemon
juice and red Bar-le-Duc and a dash of paprika.
FRUIT JUICE MAYONNAISE: Add 3 tablespoons fruit juice,
J/2 cup confectioners' sugar and 1 cup heavy cream, whipped.
LEMON CREAM MAYONNAISE: Add l / 2 cup confectioners'
sugar, 5/4 cup lemon juice, a few grains salt and 1 cup heavy
cream, whipped.
ROQUEFORT MAYONNAISE: Add 2 tablespoons Roquefort
cheese, mashed, 1 teaspoon lemon juice and 54 teaspoon salt.
SOUR CREAM MAYONNAISE: Add 54 cup confectioners' sugar,
2 tablespoons lemon juice and 1 cup sour cream, whipped.
THOUSAND ISLAND DRESSING: Add 54 cup chili sauce, 1 table-
spoon each chopped olives and pimientos and 1 hard-cooked egg
yolk, chopped or rubbed through a sieve.
WHIPPED CREAM MAYONNAISE: Add 4 teaspoons confec-
tioners' sugar and 1 cup cream, whipped.
RUSSIAN DRESSING
iy 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 tablespoon Worcestershire
2 tablespoons thick chili sauce
sauce 1/2 cup mayonnaise
Mix the lemon juice, chili sauce and Worcestershire thor-
oughly and add the mayonnaise.
THOUSAND ISLAND DRESSING
1 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon chopped green
4 tablespoons chili sauce pepper
1 tablespoon chives 3 tablespoons chopped red
3 tablespoons catchup pepper
1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar 1 teaspoon paprika
Add chili sauce, chives, catchup, peppers, paprika and vinegar
to mayonnaise.
450
x^-^x^-syvyvx^Ny^^wyv.^
BOILED DRESSING
No. 1.
1/2 cup vinegar l /2 teaspoon mustard
1 teaspoon fat l /s teaspoon salt
3 egg-yolks 1/16 teaspoon cayenne
1 tablespoon sugar Whipped cream, sweet or sour
Heat the vinegar to the boiling-point and melt the fat in
the vinegar. Beat the egg-yolks until thick and lemon-colored.
Add the sugar, mustard, salt and cayenne, mixed. Gradually
pour the hot vinegar on the yolk mixture, and cook in a double
boiler until thick, stirring constantly. Add whipped cream
just before serving.
CREAMY EGOLESS MAYONNAISE
iy 2 tablespoons sugar y 2 teaspoon dry mustard
y 2 teaspoon paprika y 2 cup evaporated milk, undiluted
y 2 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons vinegar
Few grains white pepper /4 to !^2 CU P S salad oil
Mix dry ingredients with milk; beat in vinegar, add oil grad-
ually, beating thoroughly. Since the mixture thickens somewhat
when chilled, it may be desirable to thin it with undiluted
evaporated milk before using, or less oil can be used if a thinner
mixture is desired. Makes 1 pint.
SOUR CREAM SALAD DRESSING
1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon lemon-juice
1 teaspoon sugar 2 tablespoons vinegar
5/8 teaspoon cayenne 1 cup sour cream
This makes an excellent dressing for vegetable salads. Place
the salt, sugar, and pepper together in a bowl, mix well and
add the lemon- juice, then the vinegar. When the mixture is
perfectly smooth, put in the cream, stir well and set on the ice
until needed.
DRESSING FOR MEAT SALADS
Tartar, Hollandaise and Vinaigrette sauces (see Index for
recipes) may be used with meat salads if desired.
CAKES
are of two general types depending upon the basic
ingredients they contain. In one group are the cakes
made with fat the various butter cakes, pound cakes, and
fruit cakes; and in the other group are those that are made
without fat sponge and angel cakes. Either kind of cake
may be baked in many diSerent forms oblong or round
loaves, sheets, layers, or individual cakes of various shapes, de-
pending somewhat upon the kind of cake but also upon the
way they are to be served. The butter cakes are most fre-
quently baked in layers, pound cakes in round or oblong loaves,
and sponge and angel cakes, in sheets or in the tube pans which
give round loaves with a hole in the center.
Materials Used in Cake Making
SUGAR Fine grained granulated sugar is the standard sugar
for cake. A coarse grained sugar may produce a coarse grained
cake with a hard crust. Light brown or dark brown sugar is
preferred by most people for fruit cake or any dark cake.
Brown sugar is lighter and more moist than granulated and
when it as used instead of granulated sugar the substitution
should be weight for weight, not measure for measure.
SHORTENING Any fat that has a mild flavor may be used
for the shortening in cake. Butter is the first choice with many
cooks because of its flavor, but it is the most expensive of fats.
Tasteless vegetable or animal oils or hardened fats produce per-
fect results, aside from the flavor. Since these fats are unsalted
the amount of salt should be increased by one-half.
Hard fats should be creamed with the sugar. If they are
melted and added while hot, the cake is likely to be tough.
If melted fat is called for, it should be cooled before it is added.
EGGS Eggs for cake need not be newly laid, but they should
be of good quality, free from taint and fresh enough to beat
up well. Two yolks or two whites may be used instead of one
whole egg, or a yolk may be substituted for a white or the other
way around. The substitution of yolks for whites or vice versa
makes a difference in the color and to some extent in the tex-
451
45 2
V_/-%_^N^^
ture of the cake. In recipes calling for egg whites alone or for
more whites than yolks, the number of whites cannot be reduced
without changing the texture of the cake. If an egg white is
used instead of a yolk, one teaspoon of shortening should be
added. When fewer whole eggs are to be used than a recipe
calls for, add one-half teaspoon of baking powder instead of
each egg omitted, after the first one. Eggs improve the quality
of the texture of batters, and while a fairly good plain cake can
be made with only one egg, additional eggs give a lighter, more
delicate texture, improve the flavor and produce a smoother
crust.
FLOUR In the cake recipes given in this book, cake flour has
been used. Cake flour has a low gluten content and therefore
makes a finer textured cake. Although cake flour is preferred
for cakemaking, successful cakes are made with all-purpose
flour. If all-purpose flour is used for cake flour, reduce the
amount of flour used by 2 tablespoons per cup of flour called
for and do not beat the batter as long as when using cake flour.
Always sift flour before measuring. Fill cup lightly. Resifting
with dry ingredients as directed.
LEAVENING AGENTS The most usual leavening agents in
cakemaking are eggs and baking powder. When 1 egg is
omitted from a recipe the baking powder should be increased
by l /2 teaspoon. If the liquid used is sour milk or cream, use l / 2
teaspoon baking soda for each cup of liquid. Then decrease
baking powder slightly. It is best to sift the baking soda with
the dry ingredients. If the soda is dissolved in the sour milk
it must be added to the mixture immediately or some of the
gas to be used in leavening will be lost.
No chemical leavening agent is used in true spongecakes.
The air incorporated by means of the beaten egg whites, and
the steam generated in cooking make the cake rise as it is baked.
FLAVORINGS A cake shortened entirely with good butter
needs no additional flavoring though most people add some
flavoring extract. Vanilla and lemon extracts are used more
commonly than others, but almond, orange, pineapple, and rose
give a variety in flavors. Very often the juices of fresh fruit
such as lemon or orange, or the grated peel or rind, are used
in certain types of cake. Too much flavoring is a common
mistake. The amount given in recipes is for an extract of
average strength. Where an extract of greater strength is used
the amount should be decreased.
CAKES 453
Standard Method of Mixing Butter Cakes
There are several methods of combining ingredients for but-
ter cakes, but the method described below is considered the
standard.
CREAM THE BUTTER OR OTHER SHORTENING by continued
rubbing against the sides of the bowl until it is soft and light.
Some people prefer to use a wooden spoon for this, but a fork
does the work more quickly. If the shortening is too hard to
cream easily, warm the bowl slightly by setting it in warm
water, but do not melt the fat.
ADD THE SUGAR GRADUALLY and work well after each addi-
tion.
SEPARATE THE WHITES FROM THE YOLKS of the eggs. Beat
the yolks until they are thick and lemon-colored, then add them
to the creamed shortening and sugar. If the egg is not separated,
beat the whole egg well and add here.
SIFT THE FLOUR, measure it and add to it all other dry
ingredients, such as baking-powder, salt and spices,^ and then
sift again.
ADD THE DRY INGREDIENTS AND MILK to the first mixture,
alternately, keeping the batter of the same consistency through-
out the mixing process. Beat just enough to make the mixture
smooth.
ADD THE FLAVORING, then fold in the stiffly beaten egg-
whites, unless the whites were added with the yolks.
WHEN FRUITS OR NUTS ARE USED, save out a little of the
flour to sift over them, and add them to the cake mixture just
before the egg-whites are added.
MELT CHOCOLATE OVER HOT WATER and add just after
the egg-yolks. Add cocoa as one of the dry ingredients.
Baking Butter Cakes
For any cake made with fat, grease the pans with a melted,
unsalted fat, using a pastry brush or a piece of soft paper, then
dredge the pans with flour, and shake them to distribute the
flour over the surface. Invert the pans and shake them to re-
move all surplus flour, leaving only the thin film which adheres
to the fat. This helps to give the cake a smooth under crust.
If the oven temperature is difficult to control, if the cake
454
's-^y^
pan is not smooth, or if the cake contains only a small amount
of fat, it is advisable to line the pans with smooth paper. Cut
the paper to fit the bottom of the pan, plus an allowance to
cover the sides. For a rectangular pan, cut out the corners of
the paper so that it will fit against the sides of the pan without
overlapping or wrinkling. For a round or oval pan, cut gashes
along the edge of the paper as far as the part which is to cover
the bottom. The paper will then overlap smoothly on the
sides of the pan. Grease the paper after it is fitted into the
pan. The grease will hold the paper against the sides as the
cake batter is poured in.
If you want the cake to rise to the top of the pan, fill the
pan about two-thirds full. Spread the batter well into the
corners and against the sides of the pan, leaving a slight de-
pression in the center. As cake tends to rise more in the
center than at the edges, this will help to make it flat on top
when it is done.
BAKING TEMPERATURES Place the pan in the center of the
lower grate so that the greatest amount of heat will reach it
from underneath. A moderate temperature, varying from
350 to 375, is best for baking a butter cake. If the oven
is too hot, a thick brown crust will form on the outside before
the cake has fully risen and before the inside has thoroughly
baked, resulting in a cracked surface.
THE TIME FOR BAKING depends on the thickness of the cake.
Cup cakes take from twenty to thirty minutes, layer cakes
about twenty minutes,, and loaf cakes from forty-five to sixty
minutes.
Divide the time of baking into quarters: (1) During the
first quarter, the cake should rise and little bubbles form on the
top; (2) in the second quarter, it should continue to rise and
to form the crust; (3) in the third quarter, it should begin to
brown, and (4) at the end of the fourth quarter it should be
browned sufficiently and shrink from the tin.
TESTING THE CAKE When the cake is fully baked, it will
shrink from the sides of the pan. "When touched lightly with
the finger it will spring back. If the finger leaves a depression,
the cake is not done.
Another test is to insert a clean wooden toothpick into the
middle of the cake. If no particles of batter adhere to it when
it is drawn out, the cake is done.
CAKES 455
CARE AFTER BAKING After removing the cake from the
oven, allow it to remain in the pan about two minutes. Then,
with a spatula or knife, loosen the edges. If there is any
tendency for the cake to stick on the bottom, wring a cloth
out of water and place it on the bottom of the pan for a few
seconds. Turn the cake out on a wire cake-cooler and allow it
to stand until cool.
Standard Method of Mixing Cakes Without Fat
Cakes without fat depend for leavening largely upon the air
beaten into the eggs. The whites and yolks of the eggs may or
may not be separated, depending upon the kind of cake. If
using the whole egg, beat it till thick and lemon-colored; if us-
ing only the yolk, beat till thick and light in color, add the
sugar gradually and beat after each addition until the sugar
dissolves.
Add the flavoring and liquid, if there is any, and fold in the
sifted dry ingredients.
When the whites have been beaten separately, they are added
last, using the folding motion. Do not beat the mixture after
the whites have been added. Place at once in a moderate oven
(325 350 R).
General Directions for Baking Cakes Without Fat
Use an ungreased pan for sponge or angel cakes. If they are
greased the batter cannot cling to the sides of the pan as it bakes
and thus the cake does not reach its full height. Greasing also
causes the cake to fall out of the pan during cooling, making
it flat and soggy.
BAKING TEMPERATURES True sponge and angel food cakes
in which eggs are the only leavening are baked in a moderate
oven (325 350 F.) to insure the best volume and texture.
If baked too slow the results will be a coarse uneven cake; if
oven is too hot the cake will be small in volume, fine grained
and tough. It can be truly said of such a cake, "half the making
is the baking." When baking-powder is used, a slightly higher
temperature is desirable. The division of baking time is the
same as for butter cakes.
When the cake is a light brown, and springs back when
456
N^VXNX
pressed with the finger, it is done. Remove it to a wire cake
cooler, invert the tin and allow it to stand till the cake is cool.
Then remove the cake from the tin. When serving, break it
apart with two forks; cutting with a knife tends to crush the
cake and make it appear heavy.
Causes of Failure in Making Cake
CRACKS AND UNEVEN SURFACES are caused by too much flour
or too hot an oven.
A DRY CAKE (that is, a fresh cake that seems dry or bready
inside) may be caused by too much flour, too little fat or by
the kind of sugar used, i.e., powdered sugar is thought by some
people to give a dryer cake than granulated sugar.
A HEAVY STICKY CAKE means too much sugar or too little
baking.
A MOIST STICKY CRUST is caused by an excess of sugar.
A MACAROON CRUST is caused by too much sugar or too slow
baking.
COARSE GRAINED CAKES are caused by insufficient mixing,
too slow baking, too much baking-powder, or too much fat.
FALLING is caused by insufficient flour, too much fat, under-
baking, or opening or jarring the oven early in the baking
period.
AN UNEVEN COLOR is caused by too fast baking or insuf-
ficient mixing.
FOUNDATION OR PLAIN CAKE
l /$ cup shortening 2 teaspoons baking-powder
% cup sugar l / 2 cup milk
2 eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla
1^2 cups flour
Cream the shortening, add sugar and continue creaming.
Add well-beaten eggs. Mix and sift the dry ingredients and add
alternately with the milk. Add flavoring. Bake in layers,
(375 F. for 20 minutes). Any good filling and frosting may
be used. The batter may be varied by adding nuts, coconut,
spices, etc., and may be baked as a loaf cake.
CAKES 457
ONE-EGG CAKE
1/4 cup shortening ]/ 4 teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar 2.y 2 teaspoons baking powder
1 egg, unbeaten % cup milk
2 cups sifted cake flour 1 teaspoon vanilla
Cream shortening, add sugar gradually and cream until fluffy.
Add egg and beat thoroughly. Sift dry ingredients together 3
times and add alternately with milk and vanilla. Pour into
greased pans. Bake in a moderate oven (3SOF.) 25 minutes.
Makes 2 (9 -inch) layers.
CARMEL OR BURNT SUGAR CAKE
1% cups sugar % cup butter or other
1/3 cup hot water shortening
3 cups sifted cake flour 3 eggs, unbeaten
3 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons burnt sugar
sirup
% cup milk
Prepare burnt sugar sirup. Place l /z cup of the sugar in a
heavy skillet, stirring constantly as sugar melts. When it be-
comes dark brown, remove from heat, add hot water very
slowly and stir until dissolved. Cool. Sift flour, baking powder
and salt together 3 times. Cream shortening, add remaining
sugar (1/4 cups) gradually and cream until light and fluffy.
Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating thoroughly after each. Add van-
illa and 3 tablespoons of the sirup; blend. Add dry ingredients
and milk alternately, beating until smooth. Pour into pans
lined with waxed paper and bake in a moderate oven (350F.)
25 to 30 minutes. Makes 2 (9 -inch) layers.
IN-A-JIFFY CAKE
iy 2 cups sifted cake flour % cup milk
%. cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 teaspoon salt 1^ cup melted shortening
2 teaspoons baking powder 1 egg, beaten
Sift dry ingredients together 3 times. Combine remaining
ingredients and add gradually to dry ingredients. Beat mix-
ture 2 minutes. Pour into greased cake pan. Bake in moderate
oven (350F.) 30 minutes. Makes 1 (8x8x2 inch) cake.
GEORGE WASHINGTON
M A Dl ISTOR Y WH I LE
MARTHA MADE CRfAM
PIES ilKE THIS ONE
r-WNat Flour Institute
\ WORDS FOR DEVIL'S FOOD
CAKE. ALWAYS A FAVORITE EASY TO BAKE
SUGAR AND SPICE 'N EVERYTHING NICE,
THAT'S WHAT LITTLE CAKES, BIG CAKES-
ALL KINDS OF CAKES ARE MADE OF
ONE-TWO-THREE-FOUR CAKE (Measure Cake)
1 cup butter or other 3 cups sifted cake flour
shortening y 4 teaspoon salt
2 cups sugar 3 teaspoons baking powder
4 eggs, separated 1 cup milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
Cream shortening and sugar until fluffy. Add egg yolks 1
at a time, beating thoroughly after each one is added. Sift dry
ingredients together 3 times and add alternately with milk and
vanilla to creamed mixture, beating until smooth after each
addition. Fold in stiffly beaten egg whites. Pour into pans lined
with waxed paper and bake in moderate oven (350F.) 25 min-
utes. Makes 3 (9 -inch) layers.
MAPLE SIRUP CAKE
y 2 cup sugar Salt
1/3 cup shortening 2y 4 cups flour
3/ 4 cup maple sirup 3 teaspoons baking powder
y 2 cup milk 3 egg whites
Cream the sugar and shortening together. Add the sirup and
stir well. Add the milk and flour alternately. Fold in the
beaten whites and bake in an oblong pan (350-375F.) 45-60
minutes. When the cake is baked and cool, place it on an
inverted cake pan and cover with Maple Sugar Frosting, No. 2.
DEVIL'S FOOD CAKE
% cup butter or other 2y 4 cups sifted cake flour
shortening iy 2 teaspoons baking soda
1% cups brown sugar % teaspoon baking powder
3 eggs, well beaten % teaspoon salt
% cup boiling water % cup sour milk
3 ounces (3 squares) bitter l l / 2 teaspoons vanilla
chocolate
Cream shortening thoroughly; add sugar gradually and cream
mixture until light and fluffy. Add beaten eggs and beat well.
Meanwhile pour the boiling water over chocolate; stir over low
heat until smooth and thick; cool and add to egg mixture;
blend thoroughly. Sift flour once, measure and combine with
remaining dry ingredients and sift 3 times, then add to choco-
CAKES
459
late mixture, alternately with milk and vanilla combined. Beat
well after each addition. Pour batter into greased pans which
have been lined with waxed paper. Bake in a moderate oven
(350F.) until done, 25 to 30 minutes. Makes 3 (8 -inch) lay-
ers. Spread with Boiled Frosting (page 479).
CHOCOLATE NUT CAKE
% cup butter or other 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
shortening l/> teaspoon allspice
ll/2 cups sugar 1 cup milk
4 eggs, separated 4 ounces (4 squares) bitter
1%. cups sifted cake flour chocolate (melted)
2 teaspoons baking powder 1 cup walnuts, chopped
1/2 teaspoon cloves 1 teaspoon vanilla
Cream shortening, add sugar slowly and beat until light and
fluffy. Add unbeaten egg yolks and beat vigorously. Sift dry
ingredients together 3 times and add alternately with milk to
creamed mixture. Stir in chocolate, nuts and vanilla and mix
well. Fold in stiffly beaten egg whites. Pour into waxed-paper-
lined loaf pan and bake in a moderately slow oven (325F.)
about 50 minutes. Makes 1 loaf (4x8 inches). When cool,
spread top and sides with Marshmallow-Cream Frosting (page
482) or Boiled Frosting (page 479).
SOUR CREAM COCOA CAKE
Y 2 cup cocoa y 2 teaspoon salt
% cup boiling water 1/2 cup sour cream
l/> cup shortening l/> teaspoon baking soda
2 cups sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla
2 cups sifted cake flour 3 egg whites
Mix cocoa in boiling water and stir until smooth. Cool.
Cream shortening and sugar together until light and fluffy. Add
cocoa mixture to creamed mixture. Sift flour, salt and soda
together. Add dry ingredients alternately with cream to first
mixture. Beat until smooth after each addition. Add vanilla.
Fold in stiffly beaten egg whites. Pour into pans lined with
waxed paper and bake in a moderate oven (350F.) 30 minutes.
Makes 2 (9-inch) layers. Spread Mocha Frosting (page 482)
between layers and on top.
460
_ X - S _^ V _^- X _^V^-N_^-^^V^^^-%^'^^S_^-N_X-^X-X^^^->
COFFEE CAKE
2 tablespoons shortening % cup flour
1/2 cup sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder
1 egg % cup milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
Cream the shortening and sugar, add the beaten egg yolk
and the sifted dry ingredients alternately with the milk. Add
vanilla. Fold in the stiffly beaten egg white. Spread one half
of the mixture in a deep greased piepan.
FILLING
y 2 cup brown sugar 1 cup chopped walnuts
2 teaspoons cinnamon 2 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons melted fat
Mix all the ingredients thoroughly and spread one half over
the batter in the pan. Add the rest of the cake batter and spread
the remainder of the filling over the top. Bake in a moderate
oven (350-375F.) 45-60 minutes.
SOUR MILK CHOCOLATE CAKE
1/2 cup shortening 2 ounces (2 squares)
iy 2 cups sugar chocolate, melted]
1 teaspoon vanilla 2 cups sifted cake flour
3 eggs, separated 1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup sour milk
Cream shortening, add sugar gradually, creaming until fluffy,
add vanilla and beaten egg yolks, then chocolate. Sift dry in-
gredients together 3 times and add alternately with milk. Fold
in stiffly beaten egg whites. Turn into 2 greased (9 -inch) pans
and bake in a 350F. oven 25 minutes.
GINGER COCONUT CAKES
2/3 cup molasses 1 teaspoon cinnamon
Y 2 cup sugar 1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 cup butter or other 2 cups sifted cake flour
shortening 1 cup sour milk
1 teaspoon ginger 2 eggs, beaten
Heat first 5 ingredients to boiling, stirring constantly. Cool
CAKES 461
to lukewarm. Sift soda and flour together and add alternately
with milk and eggs, beating thoroughly. Pour into greased
muffin pans. Bake in a 350 F. oven 15 minutes. Makes 16 cakes.
Cover with boiled frosting and coconut.
NUT CAKE
l /2 CU P shortening 2 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup sugar 1/2 cup milk
2 eggs, separated 1 teaspoon vanilla
ll/2 cups sifted cake flour 1 cup chopped nut meats
Cream shortening and sugar, add egg yolks and beat well.
Sift flour and baking powder and add alternately with milk and
vanilla. Add nuts and fold in stiffly beaten egg whites. Bake in
a greased loaf pan in a 350F. oven 50 minutes.
WHITE MOUNTAIN CAKE
l>2 cup shortening 1^ teaspoon salt
1.1/2 cups sugar 1 cup milk
21/2 cups sifted cake flour 1 teaspoon vanilla
3 teaspoons baking powder 4 egg whites, stiffly beaten
Cream shortening, add sugar gradually and cream until light
and fluffy. Sift flour, baking powder and salt together 3 times
and add alternately with milk and vanilla a small amount at a
time, beating after each addition until smooth. Pour into a tube
pan lined with waxed paper. Bake in a moderate oven (350F.)
45 to 60 minutes. When cake is cold, cover with Boiled Frost-
ing, page 479.
WHITE CAKE
% cup shortening 1/2 teaspoon salt
2 cups sugar 1 cup milk
3 cups sifted cake flour 1 teaspoon vanilla
3 teaspoons baking powder 5 egg whites, stiffly beaten
Cream shortening, add sugar gradually and cream until light
and fluffy. Sift dry ingredients together 3 times and add alter-
nately with milk and vanilla to creamed mixture. Fold in egg
whites. Pour into greased pans and bake in a moderate oven
(350F.) 30 minutes. Makes 3 (9-inch) layers.
462
^_/-V_/-\_/--s^>^-> -X -X^~x_^^^^N_/-^
GOLD CAKE
% cup butter or other 2y 2 cups sifted cake flour
shortening 3 teaspoons baking powder
1]4 cups sugar y 4 teaspoon salt
8 egg yolks, beaten % cup milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
Cream shortening and sugar until light and fluffy. Add egg
yolks and continue creaming. Sift dry ingredients together 3
times; add alternately with liquids to creamed mixture. Beat
until smooth. Pour into cake pans lined with waxed paper.
Bake in a moderate oven (350F.) 18 to 20 minutes. Makes 3
(9 -inch) layers.
ORANGE CAKE
% cup shortening 4 teaspoons baking powder
iy 2 cups sugar %. teaspoon salt
3 eggs y 2 cup orange juice
Grated rind of 1 orange 1 tablespoon lemon juice
3 cups sifted cake flour y 2 cup water
Cream shortening, add sugar gradually, creaming until light
and fluffy. Add eggs one at a time, beating thoroughly after
each addition. Add orange rind. Sift dry ingredients together
3 times and add alternately with liquids to creamed mixture.
Pour into cake pans lined with waxed paper. Bake in a moderate
oven (350F.) 25 to 30 minutes. Makes 2 (9 -inch) layers.
When cold spread Orange Filling (page 477) between layers
and Twice Cooked Frosting or Seven Minute Frosting (page
479) on top and sides.
LAYER CAKE
1/2 cup shortening 1^ teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar 2y 2 teaspoons baking powder
2 eggs, separated % cup milk
2 cups sifted cake flour 1 teaspoon vanilla
Cream shortening, add sugar gradually and beat until fluffy,
then add beaten egg yolks. Sift dry ingredients together 3 times
and add alternately with milk and vanilla to creamed mixture.
Fold in stiffly beaten egg whites. Bake in 2 layers in a moderate
oven (350F.) 20 minutes. When cold fill and frost as desired.
CAKES 463
LADY BALTIMORE CAKE
% cup butter or other % teaspoon salt
shortening l / 2 cup milk
2 cups sugar l / 2 cup water
3 cups sifted cake flour 1 teaspoon vanilla
3 teaspoons baking powder 6 egg whites
Cream shortening and sugar together until fluffy. Sift flour,
baking powder and salt together 3 times. Combine milk, water
and vanilla. Add small amounts of flour to creamed mixture,
alternately with milk mixture, beating until smooth after each
addition. Beat egg whites until stiff but not dry and fold into
mixture. Pour into cake pans lined with waxed paper. Bake in
moderate oven (350F.) 25 minutes. Makes 3 (9-inch) layers.
LADY BALTIMORE FROSTING AND FILLING
3 cups sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup water Y 2 cup chopped figs
y 4 teaspoon cream of tartar 1 cup chopped raisins
3 egg whites, stiffly beaten 1 cup chopped nut meats
Boil sugar, water and cream of tartar together to 238F. or
until a small amount of sirup will form a soft ball when tested
in cold water. Pour hot sirup gradually over beaten whites,
beating constantly and continuing to beat until mixture is of
spreading consistency. Add vanilla. Divide mixture in half.
Add fruit and nuts to 1 portion and spread between layers of
cake. Frost top and sides with remaining frosting.
MARBLE CAKE
1/3 cup butter or other 2 teaspoon baking powder
shortening !/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar 1/2 cup milk
2 eggs, well beaten 1 ounce (1 square)
1/2 teaspoon vanilla chocolate, melted
1% cups sifted cake flour
Cream shortening, add sugar gradually and cream until light
and fluffy. Add eggs and vanilla and mix thoroughly. Sift dry
ingredients together 3 times and add alternately with milk to
creamed mixture, beating until smooth. To % of the batter
add chocolate and blend thoroughly. Place by spoonfuls in a
greased tube pan, alternating light and dark mixtures. Bake in
a moderate oven (350F.) 1 hour.
BLITZ TORTE
1/2 cup shortening 1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 cup sugar 4 egg whites
l/g teaspoon salt 3^ cup sugar
4 egg yolks, beaten light y 2 cup sliced blanched
1 teaspoon vanilla almonds
3 tablespoons milk 1 tablespoon sugar
1 cup sifted cake flour y 2 teaspoon cinnamon
Cream shortening; beat in sugar and salt, then egg yolks,
vanilla, milk and flour (sifted with baking powder). Spread
mixture in 2 round greased cake pans. Beat egg whites until
very light, add % cup sugar gradually and spread on the un-
baked mixture in both pans. Sprinkle with almonds, 1 table-
spoon sugar and cinnamon and bake in a moderate oven (3 50F.)
about 30 minutes. Let cool and put together with cream fill-
ing. Makes 1 (9-inch) 2 layer cake.
CREAM FILLING
1/3 cup sugar 2 egg yolks
3 tablespoons cornstarch 2 tablespoons butter
y 4 teaspoon salt 2 cups milk, scalded
1 teaspoon vanilla
Combine sugar, cornstarch, salt and egg yolks; beat thor-
oughly. Add butter and enough milk to make a smooth paste.
Add paste to remaining hot milk and cook over boiling water,
stirring constantly until mixture is thickened. Cool and add
vanilla. If desired add l / 2 cup chopped nut meats.
OLD-FASHIONED POUNDCAKE
1 pound butter (2 cups) 10 eggs, separated
1 pound sifted cake flour 1 pound sugar (2 cups)
(4 cups) 1 teaspoon vanilla
Cream butter, work in flour until mixture is mealy. Beat egg
yolks, sugar and vanilla until thick and fluffy. Add first mix-
ture gradually, beating thoroughly. Fold in stiffly beaten egg
whites. Beat vigorously 5 minutes. Bake in 2 loaf pans lined
with waxed paper, in a moderately slow oven (325F.) 1 %
hours. Makes 2 loaves (8x4 inches).
CAKES 465
SPICE CAKE
l/ 2 cup shortening 1 teaspoon baking soda
2 cups brown sugar 2 teaspoons cinnamon
3 eggs, separated 1 teaspoon cloves
2 cups sifted cake flour y 2 teaspoon nutmeg
Y 4 teaspoon salt 1 cup thick sour cream
Cream shortening and sugar together until fluffy, add beaten
yolks. Sift dry ingredients together 3 times and add alternately
with cream to first mixture, beating thoroughly after each addi-
tion. Fold in stiffly beaten egg whites. Pour into cake pan lined
with waxed paper. Bake in moderate oven (350F.) about 50
minutes. Makes 1 cake (9 inches square).
FIG LOAF CAKE
1 cup shortening 1 teaspoon cinnamon
2 cups brown sugar l / 2 teaspoon ground cloves
4 eggs, well beaten 1 teaspoon nutmeg
3 cups sifted cake flour 1 cup water
3 teaspoons baking powder y 2 pound figs, finely cut
y 4 teaspoon salt 2 cups chopped raisins
Cream shortening, add sugar gradually and cream until fluffy.
Beat in eggs. Sift dry ingredients together 3 times and add alter-
nately with water to creamed mixture. Blend in fruits. Bake in
a waxed-paper-lined loaf pan (51/2 x 10 inches) in a slow oven
(300F.) about 2 hours.
DELICIOUS FRUITCAKE
4 cups sifted cake flour 1 pound citron, sliced
1 teaspoon mace 2 cups blanched almonds,
l^ teaspoon nutmeg sliced
2 teaspoons cinnamon 1 pound butter
y 2 teaspoon baking soda 2 cups light brown sugar
3 pounds currants 9 eggs, separated
2 pounds seeded raisins 1 cup strong cold coffee
Sift flour, spices and soda together 3 times. Mix with fruits
and nuts. Cream butter and sugar together until fluffy. Beat
yolks until thick and whites until stiff; add to creamed mixture.
Add flour-fruit mixture alternately with coffee. Pour into
greased pans lined with greased paper. Bake in very slow oven
(275 F.) 3 to 4 hours. Rich fruitcake is sometimes steamed
1 hour, then baked for remaining time.
4 66
WEDDING CAKE
2 pounds butter iy 2 teaspoons salt
1 pound granulated sugar 1 teaspoon cloves
% pound brown sugar 2 teaspoons cinnamon
20 eggs 2 tablespoons nutmeg
2 oranges, juice and grated 2 tablespoons mace
rind 1 glass tart jelly
1 lemon, juice and grated rind 3 pounds seeded raisins
1 teaspoon soda 2 pounds seedless raisins
1 cup molasses 5 pounds currants
1 cup black coffee 1 pound almonds
1 cup fruit juice 2 pounds citron
2 pounds flour 2 cups flour (for the fruit)
Cream the butter till very soft, add the white sugar and the
sifted brown sugar and mix thoroughly. Add the beaten yolks
and mix again with the grated rind. Add one half the soda
to the molasses, stir until foamy and add, with the coffee and
fruit juices, alternating with the two pounds of flour, the rest
of soda, the salt and spices sifted together. Break the jelly into
pieces and stir in. It is not necessary to have the jelly
thoroughly mixed in.
Look over the raisins and currants, wash if necessary, drain
and dry. Blanch the almonds and slice. Save half the nuts to
sprinkle on the bottom and top of cake. Cut the citron in thin
strips. Mix the two cups of flour thoroughly with this fruit.
Candied orange or grapefruit peel may be used for citron.
Mix the prepared fruit with the batter. This may be added
from time to time with the flour. When all is thoroughly com-
bined fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites.
This amount makes about twenty four pounds of cake, and
can be baked in small loaves or in one large one. Whatever
size is chosen line the greased pans with three layers of paper
(bottom and sides) having the top layer well greased. Sprinkle
the bottom with about one third of the reserved nuts. Put the
mixture into the pan making sure that the corners are well filled
and that the top is level and smooth. Sprinkle the remaining
nuts on the top. If made into one large cake steam four hours
and then bake one hour in a very slow oven (250 -2 75 F.). If
made into small cakes they can be baked without steaming first.
Bake in a slow oven (250 F.) for two hours. Let cool in the
pan, but have it stand on a rack so as to have a circulation of
air underneath as well as on the top and sides.
CAKES 467
Turn out and remove the paper. Cool and store in a cool dry
place tightly covered. A few sound apples placed in the con-
tainer where cake is stored will help keep the cake moist if it
must be kept long, but they must be watched and replaced if
they begin to show decay, or if they become^ shrivelled.
As there is so much preparation involved, the fruits and nuts
can be gotten ready several days before the cake is to be baked.
Even after the cake is entirely mixed and in the pan or pans
it can stand overnight if kept in a cool place.
CHRISTMAS FRUITCAKE
1 pound butter 1 pound citron, sliced
iy 2 pounds brown sugar 1 pound dates, sliced
ll/2 pounds flour 10 eggs, well beaten
2 teaspoons nutmeg 1 cup molasses
1 teaspoon mace 1 cup strong cold coffee
1 teaspoon cloves Juice and grated rind of
2 teaspoons cinnamon 2 oranges
1 teaspoon baking soda Juice and grated rind of
3 teaspoons baking powder 1 lemon
3 pounds raisins 1 cup tart jelly
2 pounds currants y 4 pound almonds, sliced
Cream butter and sugar until fluffy. Sift dry ingredients
together 3 times and mix with fruit. Add eggs to creamed mix-
ture. Add flour-fruit mixture alternately with next 5 ingredients
and beat thoroughly. Pour into pans lined with greased paper.
Sprinkle almonds on top. Cover cakes with greased paper.
Steam for 2 hours, then bake in slow oven (300F.) \ l /z to 2
hours, removing paper last l /z hour to dry surface.
DRIED APRICOT CAKE
1 cup dried apricots 1 teaspoon vanilla
2 cups water 1% cups sifted cake flour
6 tablespoons sugar 1^ teaspoon salt
1/2 cup shortening I/, teaspoon baking soda
1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder
2 egg yolks % ca P water
Simmer first 3 ingredients together 30 minutes. Mash and
measure l /z cup pulp. Cream shortening and sugar thoroughly,
add yolks and vanilla; beat. Sift dry ingredients together and
add alternately with water and pulp. Bake in a cake pan (8x8
inches), lined with waxed paper, at 350F., 45 minutes.
APPLESAUCE SPICE CAKE
No. 1.
1/2 cup butter or other 2 cups sifted cake flour
shortening 1 teaspoon baking soda
1 cup sugar 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
2 eggs, beaten light 1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 cup chopped nuts 1 cup unsweetened
1 cup chopped raisins applesauce
Cream shortening and sugar together until fluffy. Add eggs
and mix thoroughly. Add nuts and raisins. Sift dry ingredients
together 3 times and add alternately with applesauce to creamed
mixture, beating thoroughly after each addition. Pour into a
greased loaf pan and bake in a moderate oven (350F.) for
1 hour. If baked in layers, bake only for 25 minutes. Makes
1 loaf (8x4 inches) or 2 (9-inch) layers.
No. 2.
1/2 cup shortening 1 teaspoon nutmeg
1 cup sugar y 4 teaspoon cloves
1 egg, beaten y 2 teaspoon salt
1% cups sifted cake flour 1 teaspoon baking soda
11/2 teaspoons cinnamon 1 cup unsweetened
1 teaspoon allspice applesauce
Cream shortening and sugar together until fluffy. Add egg
and mix thoroughly. Sift dry ingredients together 3 times and
add alternately with applesauce to creamed mixture, beating
thoroughly after each addition. Pour into a cake pan lined with
waxed paper and bake in moderate oven (350F.) 45 minutes.
Makes 1 cake (8x8x2 inches). Frost with Caramel Frosting
(page 479).
TRUE SPONGECAKE
1 cup sifted cake flour 5 egg yolks, beaten until
y 4 teaspoon salt thick and lemon-colored
Grated rind y 2 lemon 5 egg whites
11/2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 cup sugar
Sift flour and salt together 4 times. Add lemon rind and juice
to beaten yolks and beat until thick and light. Beat egg whites
until stiff, but not dry. Fold in sugar, a small amount at a
time, then add egg yolks. Fold in flour, sifting about % cup at
a time over surface. Bake in ungreased tube pan in moderate
CAKES 4 6 9
oven (350F.) 1 hour. Remove from oven and invert pan
1 hour before removing cake.
FOR MARTHA WASHINGTON CREAM PIE, bake in 2 cake pans.
Use the filling page 474 and top with whipped cream. When
serving cut in wedges like a pie.
HOT WATER SPONGECAKE
1 cup sifted cake flour 1/2 tablespoon lemon juice
11/2 teaspoons baking powder 2 eggs, separated
y 4 teaspoon salt 1 cup sugar
6 tablespoons hot water
Proceed as for True Spongecake (page 468), adding water
to egg and sugar mixture before adding dry ingredients.
MERINGUE SPONGECAKE
y 2 cup water 1 tablespoon lemon juice
iy 4 cups sugar 6 egg yolks, beaten thick
% cup egg whites (6) iy s cups sifted .cake flour
1 teaspoon cream tartar y 4 teaspoon salt
Boil water and sugar together to soft-ball stage (238F.).
Beat egg whites until stiff, but not dry, pour sirup over whites,
add cream of tartar and beat until cool. Add juice. Fold egg
yolks into sirup mixture. Fold in flour sifted with salt. Bake in
ungreased pan in a 350F. oven 45 minutes.
ANGEL CAKE
1 y 4 cups sugar 1 teaspoon cream of tartar
1 cup sifted cake flour l/> teaspoon salt
1 cup egg whites % teaspoon vanilla
(8 to 10 eggs) y 4 teaspoon almond extract
Sift % cup sugar and flour together 4 times. Beat egg whites,
cream of tartar and salt to a stiff foam. Add remaining sugar,
a little at a time, beating it in, preferably with a rotary beater.
Add flavorings. Fold in flour, sifting a little at a time over egg
white and sugar mixture. Pour into a large ungreased tube pan;
cut through batter with a spatula to remove large air bubbles.
Bake in a moderate oven (350F.) 45 to 60 minutes. Remove
from oven; invert pan 1 hour.
470
^^^^XNv^N-^^-X^^-v^-S^-S^-V^^V-^^^N^V^V
ROLLED CAKES
5 eggs y 2 CU P sif te< i ca ke flour
% cup sugar 3 tablespoons melted butter
Y 4 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup jelly or jam, slightly beaten
Combine eggs and sugar and beat .only until blended. Place
over hot water and heat until mixture is slightly hot (140F.).
Remove from heat and beat until mixture holds a limp peak.
Combine salt and flour and fold into egg mixture. Fold in but-
ter a tablespoonful at a time. Blend in vanilla. Pour into a jelly
roll pan (15 x 10 inches) lined with waxed paper. Bake in a
moderate oven (350F.) 15 to 20 minutes. Turn quickly onto
waxed paper covered with confectioners' sugar. Remove bottom
paper and trim sides. Spread quickly with jelly and roll; or
roll cake and when cold unroll and spread with jelly. Wrap in
waxed paper and cool. Just before serving sprinkle cake with
confectioners' sugar. Makes 1 roll.
LEMON ROLL Spread cake roll with Lemon Filling (page
476) instead of jelly or jam.
MARSHMALLOW CHOCOLATE ROLL Spread with Marshmal-
low-Cream Frosting (page 482) and roll. Wrap in cloth to cool.
Unwrap and frost with coating made by adding 1 teaspoon
melted butter to 1 square melted, bitter chocolate.
GRAHAM CRACKER CREAM CAKE
Y 2 cup shortening y 4 teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar 1 cup graham cracker
2 eggs, beaten crumbs
1 cup sifted cake flour 1 cup milk
2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon almond extract
Cream shortening and sugar together until fluffy. Beat in eggs.
Sift flour, baking powder and salt together 3 times, add crumbs
and add alternately with milk and almond extract to creamed
mixture. Pour into 2 (8 -inch) cake pans lined with waxed
paper. Bake in a moderate oven (350F.) 25 to 30 minutes.
Put layers together with Cream Filling (page 464) and frost top
and sides with a butter frosting.
CAKES 471
WHIPPED CREAM CAKE
1 cup whipping cream 1 teaspoon vanilla
2 eggs, beaten until thick 1 1 /2 cups sifted cake flour
and lemon colored % teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder
Whip cream until it holds its shape. Add eggs and whip until
light as foam. Add sugar and beat again. Add vanilla. Sift
flour, salt and baking powder together 3 times and add to egg
mixture. Bake in greased layer cake pans in a moderate oven
(350 F.) 25 to 30 minutes. Makes 2 (8-inch) layers. Cool
and spread Seven Minute Icing (page 479) or whipped cream
between the layers and on top.
SOUR CREAM CAKE
2 eggs 1 J/2 teaspoons baking
1 cup sugar powder
1 cup thick sour cream l / 2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon vanilla l / 4 teaspoon salt
2 cups sifted cake flour
Beat eggs very light, add sugar gradually and beat until
fluffy. Add cream and vanilla and beat. Sift dry ingredients
together 3 times and add to egg mixture, beating until smooth.
Bake in a square pan (8 -inch) lined with waxed paper, in a
moderate oven (350F.) about 35 minutes.
PRUNE AND APRICOT UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE
Y 4 cup butter % cup sugar
1/2 cup brown sugar 1 egg, beaten
1/2 teaspoon lemon rind 1 cup milk
Stewed apricot halves 2 1/4 cups flour
Stewed prune halves 4 teaspoons baking powder
5 tablespoons shortening y 2 teaspoon salt
Cream butter and brown sugar; add lemon rind; spread on
bottom of cake pan 8" by 2" '. Arrange apricot and prune halves
to form design on top of sugar mixture. Cream shortening, add
sugar slowly, then egg; beat well. Add milk alternately with
flour, baking powder and salt sifted together. Mix thoroughly.
Pour batter carefully over fruit in pan; bake 50 minutes at
350 F. Turn onto serving platter, upside down.
A FASCINATING
SION OF i"H
POPULAR UPSIDE'-"
DOWN CAKE:^AMJ^
CbT%PRUNE
DON'T RUN
AROUND IN
CIRCLES THINK-
ING OF NEW
DESSERTS
THIS CHOCO-
LATE MARSH-
MALLOW ROLL
DOES IT FOR
YOU
i8Sr^
- :
IT'S NO GIFT
TO BAKE THIS
BEAUTIFUL
LAYER CAKE IF
YOU FOLLOW
THE SIMPLE
DIRECTIONS
OUT OF THE OVEN AND READY
TO SERVE WHEN YOU BAKE
YOUR FRUITCAKE IN CLASS
CAKE FILLINGS AND
FROSTINGS
A TABLE giving the temperatures of boiling sugar sirup at
its various stages will be found on page 12.
FILLINGS A filling is defined as "something that serves to
fill up a space or cavity." In connection with cakes, the
word is used to designate a soft, sweetened, cooked or uncooked
mixture that will spread easily. It is usually put between layers
to hold them together, or is put into a cavity in a cake; but
occasionally it is spread over the top and sides of a cake. Some-
times a frosting is used between the layers instead of a filling.
FROSTING AND ICING A frosting is a preparation of sugar
and a liquid, which may or may not be combined with egg,
and may be cooked or uncooked. The term is derived from the
fact that the first sugar decorations of this sort were uncolored
and gave the effect of hoar-frost. The word is now used to
mean any sweet covering applied to cakes, whether white or
colored.
Icing has been used interchangeably with the word "frost-
ing" but more often in reference to the uncooked frostings.
In the beginning the word was probably used because the sub-
stance looked like ice, being translucently white instead of
frostily white. Therefore, it may be desirable to use the word
"icing" to mean a thin mixture of confectioners' sugar and a
liquid, spread on to give a glazed surface; and to keep the term
"frosting" for a thicker, more opaque coating.
Applying Fillings and Frostings
Cakes should be cooled and the surface should be free from
loose crumbs before a filling or frosting is applied, and the filling
or frosting should be cool enough so that it will not soak in.
Either the top or the bottom crust may be frosted, but the bot-
tom crust is likely to be softer and more level than the top
crust. This point should be considered also when fillings are to
be put between layers. Fillings usually hold layers together
better when the bottom crusts are placed together. A very
472
CAKE FILLINGS AND FROSTINGS 473
soft filling should not be used for a cake that is to be kept any
considerable time before it is eaten because the filling will soak
into the cake and make it soggy. Sometimes the shape of a loaf
cake makes it desirable to put the frosting on the bottom crust.
The frosting may extend over the top of a cake only or may
be spread over the sides. A well-made boiled frosting should
be soft, but not soft enough to run. A frosting may be put on
with a very smooth surface, may be left rough, or may be
scored in ridges or designs.
Fillings
APPLE FILLING
2 apples 1 lemon 1 cup sugar
Pare two large, sour apples and grate them into a saucepan^
add the juice and grated rind of the lemon, and the sugar.
Cook for five minutes, stirring constantly. Cool before spread-
ing on cake.
CARAMEL FILLING
1/4 cups brown sugar 1 cup milk
1 tablespoon butter 1 l /z teaspoons vanilla
2 teaspoons corn-starch
Cook the sugar, corn-starch, milk and butter together in a
double boiler until thick. Remove from the fire and beat
vigorously until the mixture is stiff. Add flavoring. Cool be-
fore spreading on cake.
CHOCOLATE FILLING
No. 1.
1/4 squares chocolate 1 egg-yolk
% cup milk l / 2 teaspoon butter
1 cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla
Melt the chocolate over hot water, in a double boiler; add the
milk, and cook together, stirring until the mixture is thick
and creamy. Add sugar and beaten egg-yolk, stir until smooth
and cook five minutes. Add the butter. Beat well. Remove
from heat and add flavoring. Cool before spreading on cake.
o. 2.
l l /2 squares chocolate 1 cup powdered sugar
}/3 cup cream l /z teaspoon butter
1 egg-yolk l /2 teaspoon vanilla
Melt the chocolate over hot water, in a double boiler. Mix
the cream and beaten yolk and add gradually, then the butter.
Stir in the sugar and cook until thick. Remove from fire.
Add flavoring. Cool before spreading on cake.
No. 1. COCONUT FILLING
1 tablespoon gelatin l / 2 cup sugar
l /2 cup cold water 3 egg-whites
l /2 cup boiling water 1 l /z cups moist coconut
Soak gelatin in the cold water until soft; then dissolve it in
the boiling water. Add sugar and stir until it is dissolved.
Allow gelatin to cool partly. When it begins to set, beat the
egg-whites until stiff and beat in the gelatin. Fold in the
coconut and spread upon the layers.
No. 2.
l l /z cups moist coconut 4 tablespoons confectioners'
2 egg-whites sugar
Beat the egg-whites stiff and add the sugar and coconut
gradually. Spread the mixture thickly over the cake. If you
like, sprinkle the surface with dry shredded coconut.
MARTHA WASHINGTON FILLING
iy 2 cups milk y 4 cup cold water
1 cup sugar y 4 cup rum, brandy or whisky
2 tablespoons flour y 2 cup candied cherries, chopped
3 egg yolks y 2 cup citron, chopped
2 tablespoons gelatin 1 cup whipped cream
Scald milk. Add sugar and flour to beaten egg yolks. Add to
scalded milk and cook over hot water until eggs are done. Re-
move from heat. Add gelatin which has been soaked in the cold
water. Chill. Add liquor, beat with rotary beater and chill again.
Fold the fruit and cream into the mixture. Pile between layers
of sponge cake. Top with whipped cream.
CAKE FILLINGS AND FROSTINGS
475
CHOCOLATE Use 2 squares bitter chocolate, melted over hot
water, omit liquor, add l /s teaspoon salt, dash cinnamon and
increase sugar to 1 l /z cups.
COFFEE Scald milk with two tablespoons ground coffee,
strain, and make same as cream filling, omitting liquor.
ORANGE Use half orange-juice and half milk and add two
tablespoons grated orange rind to ingredients above, omitting
the liquor. If you like, add one tablespoon lemon-juice.
WHIPPED CREAM FILLING
l /2 tablespoon gelatin l / 2 cup powdered sugar
l /4 cup cold water 1 teaspoon vanilla
2 cups cream l / 4 cup boiling water
Soak the gelatin in the cold water until softened. Whip the
cream in a pan set in ice-water and sift the sugar over it. Add
the vanilla. Pour the boiling water upon the gelatin and, when
it is dissolved and cooled, strain it over the whipped cream.
Then beat rapidly with a flat whip, turning the pan with the
left hand while beating with the right. Beat until the gelatin
is thoroughly blended with the cream. Set in a cool place.
When the filling is nearly stiff, spread it on the cake layers.
WHIPPED CREAM MOCHA FILLING
l /2 pint cream 1 1 / 2 tablespoons Mocha
2 tablespoons sugar extract or strong coffee
Whip the cream in a bowl set in ice-water; add the extract
or coffee and the sugar. Beat well.
If the top of the cake is spread with this filling, three-fourths
cup of chopped nut-meats may be sprinkled over it.
FRUIT FILLING
1/2 pound single or mixed fruit 1 cup sugar
1 cup water 1 teaspoon vanilla
Chop the fruit fine and boil in the water, if necessary, until
tender. Add sugar and cook slowly until smooth and thick.
Remove from the heat, add vanilla and cool.
476
MIXTURE FOR UPSIDE-DOWN CAKES
2 tablespoons butter Fresh or canned fruit
4 tablespoons sugar (white, brown or maple)
In a deep cake pan or heavy skillet, melt 2 tablespoons butter.
Sprinkle 4 tablespoons sugar over bottom of pan and cover with
well-drained sour cherries (or other canned or fresh fruit).
Pour batter or light yeast dough over this layer and bake at
425 F. for 30 minutes.
FRUIT AND NUT FILLING
1 cup chopped raisins 1 egg-white
l /2 cup chopped nuts Currant jelly
l /2 cup shredded coconut
Mix the raisins, nuts and coconut and add them to the stiffly
beaten egg-white. Spread the layers of cake with a thin layer
of currant jelly, then with a thick layer of the filling, and put
together.
TUTTI-FRUTTI FILLING
l /4 pound seeded or seedless Chopped walnuts
raisins % pound maraschino cherries
l /4 pound figs l / 4 pound maple sugar
Yz pound dates l /2 cup water
Put raisins and figs in colander over a kettle of hot water
and allow them to steam for about one hour. Then add dates,
which have been pitted, and steam for fifteen minutes longer.
Remove from steamer, add cherries, and chop all the fruit fine.
Bring the maple sugar and water to a boil and pour it over the
fruit. Mix well. When cool, spread between layers and on
top of the cake and sprinkle with chopped walnuts.
No. 1. LEMON FILLING
2 tablespoons flour Juice and grated rind of
% cup cold water 1 lemon
1 egg-yolk 2 teaspoons butter
Yz cup sugar
Make a smooth paste of the flour and two tablespoons of the
cold water. Cook the rest of the water, the sugar, grated
lemon-rind and butter. When the sugar is dissolved and mix-
CAKE FILLINGS AND FROSTINGS 477
ture boiling, stir in the flour mixture slowly. Cook until clear
and smooth, about fifteen minutes. Add lemon-juice and
beaten egg-yolk and cook two minutes. Cool before spreading
on cake.
No. 2.
3 egg-yolks Juice and grated rind of
1 cup sugar 2 lemons
l /2 cup butter or other fat
Beat the egg-yolks until thick, add the other ingredients and
cook in a double boiler, stirring constantly, until the mixture
is thick and smooth. Cool before spreading on cake.
MAPLE CREAM FILLING
2: cups maple-sirup 1 tablespoon butter
% cup milk Salt
Cook sirup, milk, butter, and salt together to the soft-ball
stage (238 F.). Cool and beat until creamy. Use as a filling
for cakes, cream-puffs or tarts.
ORANGE FILLING
2 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon grated orange
l /4 cup granulated sugar rind
2 eggs beaten 1 tablespoon lemon-juice
l /2 cup orange-juice
Combine all ingerdients and mix well. Cook over hot water,
stirring constantly, until well thickened, about ten minutes.
Chill well before spreading on cake.
PRUNE FILLING
l /4 pound prunes l /2 cup rhubarb-juice or
l /2 tablespoon gelatin pineapple-juice
4 tablespoons cold water l /z cup whipped cream
l /2 cup sugar
Wash the prunes, soak over night in water to cover, and cook
slowly until soft. Remove pits and rub pulp through a coarse
sieve. Soak the gelatin in cold water. When soft, add it to
478
/V/V^N^ 1
the hot prune pulp and stir until the gelatin dissolves. Add
sugar and fruit- juice. When the filling has cooled^ fold in the
whipped cream.
WALNUT FILLING
2 cups brown sugar l / 2 teaspoon vanilla
l /2 cup water l / 2 cup chopped walnut-meats
2 egg-whites
Cook the sugar and water, stirring occasionally until the
sugar is dissolved. Boil without stirring until sirup will form
a thread when dropped from the tip of the spoon (234 F.).
Remove from the fire and cool while beating the egg-whites stiff,-
then pour the sirup in a thin stream on the egg-whites, beating
the mixture constantly until it is thick enough to spread. Add
flavoring and nuts. Cool before spreading on cake. Chopped
nut-meats may be sprinkled over the top of the cake.
Frostings
CONFECTIONERS' FROSTING
1) egg- white l / 2 cup confectioners' sugar l / 2 teaspoon vanilla
Beat the egg-white stiff and add the sugar gradually; con-
tinue beating until the mixture is smooth and light. Add
flavoring.
EGGLESS CONFECTIONERS' FROSTING
2 tablespoons milk or 1 cup confectioners' sugar
water l / 2 teaspoon vanilla
Stir the sugar gradually into the milk or water. Add
vanilla. More sugar may be added if the frosting is not thick
enough.
Any fruit-juice or flavored liquid such as strong coffee or
maple -sirup may be used instead of milk or water.
Crushed berries mixed with the sugar give a pleasing frosting.
Two tablespoons cocoa may be mixed with the sugar.
One-half square of melted chocolate may be added.
CAKE FILLINGS AND FROSTINGS 479
BOILED FROSTING
1 cup sugar 1, 2, or 3 egg-whites
l /2 cup water l /z teaspoon vanilla
Cook the sugar and water together, stirring until the sugar
has dissolved. Then cook without stirring. For one egg-white,
cook to 238 F.; for two egg-whites, cook to 244 F.; and for
three egg-whites, cook to 254 F. Remove from the fire and
allow it to cool while you are beating the egg-white stiff, then
pour the sirup in a thin stream over the stiff white, beating the
mixture constantly until thick enough to spread.
ORNAMENTAL OR TWICE-COOKED FROSTING
\ l /2 cups granulated sugar 1 teaspoon flavoring extract
l /2 cup water */8 teaspoon cream of tartar
2 egg-whites
Boil sugar and water without stirring until the sirup will
form a soft ball in cold water (234 F.) ; add very slowly to
beaten egg-whites; add flavoring and cream of tartar and beat
until smooth and stiff enough to spread. Put over boiling
water, stirring continually until icing grates slightly on bottom
of bowl.
SEVEN-MINUTE ICING
1 unbeaten egg-white 3 tablespoons cold water
7 /% cu p granulated sugar l /z teaspoon flavoring extract
Place all the ingredients in the top of a double boiler. Place
over boiling water and beat with beater for seven minutes.
Add flavoring, beat, and spread on cake.
CHOCOLATE Add to above one and one-half ounces melted
unsweetened chocolate two minutes before taking from fire.
COFFEE Use cold boiled coffee in place of water.
CARAMEL FROSTING
1 cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla or
l /2 cup water l / 2 teaspoon lemon extract
2 egg-whites
Make a sirup of the sugar and water and cook to the soft-ball
stage (238 F.). Remove from the fire and cool while the
480
^/v>%^
egg-whites are beaten, then pour the sirup in a thin stream on
to the stiff whites, beating the mixture constantly until thick
enough to spread. Add the flavoring.
Chopped nuts may be stirred into the frosting just before
spreading.
CHOCOLATE FROSTING
1 square chocolate 1 egg-white
3 tablespoons granulated 8 tablespoons confectioners'
sugar sugar
1 tablespoon water l / 2 tablespoon vanilla
Cook the chocolate, granulated sugar and water together,
stirring until the mixture is smooth and glossy. Beat the white
of the egg enough to thin it, but not to make it frothy; add
the confectioners' sugar, stir until smooth and light, then add
the chocolate mixture and vanilla. Cool before spreading on
the cake.
COFFEE-BUTTER FROSTING
l l /z cups confectioners' l /y cup butter
sugar 1 tablespoon strong coffee
1 tablespoon dry cocoa
Cream the butter and add gradually the sugar and cocoa
mixed together. Beat well. Stir in the coffee. Ornamental
designs may be made by forcing the frosting through a pastry-
bag or syringe, using the various tips to produce the desired
designs.
FUDGE FROSTING
2 cups sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla
l /2 cup milk 6 marshmallows or 2 heaping
1 1 /2 tablespoons butter tablespoons marshmallow
2 squares chocolate whip
1 tablespoon corn sirup
Put first five ingredients into a saucepan and boil to soft ball
stage (234 F.). Remove from fire and stir in the marshmal-
lows just until they dissolve. Cool and add vanilla and beat
until right consistency to spread on cake.
NVOVE
: : ;-;
FINISH TOP
I
_J
TRANSFORMA-
TION BEFORE
YOUR EYES
THIS IS HOW
IT'S DONE
SUIT BOTH SIDES
OF THE HOUSE
BY DOING TWO
FROSTINGS ON
THE SAME CAKE
(ABOVE) "THE
FLOWERS THAT
BLOOM IN THE
SPRING, TRA
LA," ARE MADE
FROM FROST-
INGS OF DIFFER-
ENT COLORS
(BELOW)
CAKE FILLINGS AND FROSTINGS 481
HONEY FROSTING
1 cup honey 2 egg-whites
Boil the honey about ten minutes (238 F.). Remove from
the fire and cool while the egg-whites are beaten stiff, then
pour the honey in a thin stream over them, beating the mixture
constantly until thick enough to spread. Cool before spread-
ing.
MAPLE-SUGAR FROSTING
No. 1.
2 cups maple sugar 1 cup cream
Break the maple sugar into small pieces, put into a saucepan
and heat slowly with the cream. Stir until the sugar is
thoroughly dissolved, then boil without stirring until a soft
ball can be shaped between the fingers when the mixture is
tried in cold water (238 F.) . Care must be taken not to have
the heat too great, as this mixture will burn easily. Remove
from the fire and beat until thick enough to spread.
No. 2.
3/4 cup maple-sirup 1 egg-white
l /4 cup sugar
Cook the sirup and sugar together until it spins a thread
(220 F.) when dropped from a spoon. Pour this sirup slowly
over the beaten egg-white and beat until cold. This icing is
quickly made and may be used to give a maple flavor to simple,
inexpensive cakes or cookies.
No. 3.
2 cups maple sugar */> cup boiling water
2 egg-whites
Make a sirup of the maple sugar and water and boil to the
soft-ball stage (238 F.), remove from the fire and cool while
the egg-whites are beaten stiff, then pour the sirup in a thin
stream, over the stiff whites, beating the mixture until it is
thick enough to spread. A rough surface may be obtained by
spreading the top of the cake with the back of a spoon before
the frosting is set.
482
MAPLE MARSHMALLOW FROSTING
1 cup maple sugar 6 marshmallows or 2 table-
l /z cup boiling water spoons marshmallow cream
2 egg-whites J/2 teaspoon vanilla
Cook the sugar and water together, stirring until the sugar is
dissolved; then cook without stirring to the soft-ball stage
(238 F.) add the marshmallow to the hot sirup, pressing it
under the surface so that it will melt. If marshmallow candies
are used, cut them into small pieces. Pour the sirup in a thin
stream on to the stiffly beaten egg-whites, beating the mixture
constantly with a spoon. Add vanilla. Cool before spreading.
MARSHMALLOW-CREAM FROSTING
% cup sugar 6 marshmallows or 2 table-
l /4 cup milk spoons marshmallow cream
2 tablespoons hot water l /z teaspoon vanilla
Put the milk and sugar into a saucepan, bring slowly to the
boiling-point and boil for five minutes. Place the marshmallow
in a double boiler with hot water and vanilla. Stir until the
mixture is smooth, then add the milk and sugar sirup gradually^
stirring constantly. Beat until cool, then spread.
MILK FROSTING
1 teaspoon butter l /2 cup milk
l l /z cups sugar 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
Put the butter into a saucepan and, when it is melted, add the
sugar and milk. Stir until the boiling-point is reached and then
boil for ten minutes without stirring (235 F.). Remove from
the fire, add vanilla, and beat until of spreading consistency.
MOCHA FROSTING
15/2 teaspoons Mocha extract 1 cup confectioners' sugar
or strong coffee 2 tablespoons water
Mix the extract or coffee with the sugar and stir into the
water, gradually, rubbing out all lumps. After the frosting is
spread on the cake, three-fourths of a cup of chopped nut-
meats may be sprinkled over the top.
COOKIES, DOUGHNUTS,
GINGERBREAD AND
SMALL CAKES
Cookies
KIE doughs range from very soft to very stiff. What-
ever the degree of stiffness, a cookie dough is always easier
to handle if it is allowed to stand for a time (ten to thirty
minutes) in a cold place before it is rolled. This allows the
moisture to be thoroughly absorbed and hardens the fat, and
both of these conditions tend to prevent the dough from being
sticky even though it is soft.
MATERIALS USED IN COOKIES Butter or any other shorten-
ing preferred may be used in cookies. See Index for materials
used in cake making.
SOFT DOUGHS may be dropped from a spoon on to a baking-
sheet or may be rolled and shaped with a cutter, a knife or a
pastry wheel. They are more difficult to roll out than stiff
doughs, and some practise is necessary to obtain perfect results
in manipulating them in this way.
STIFF DOUGHS are usually rolled out and shaped by cutting.
Sometimes they are made into small balls and flattened by
pressure from the hand, a broad knife or a rolling-pin.
Rolling and Cutting Cookies
IN ROLLING ANY DOUGH, take out on the lightly floured
board only as much as can be handled easily. Flour the rolling-
pin and use only as much pressure as is necessary to spread the
dough out into a sheet of the desired thickness. If the dough
is too soft to be rolled, more flour may be worked in, but the
texture of the finished cookie will be harder in proportion to
the amount of flour added.
DIP THE CUTTER, knife or wheel in flour, and cut the shapes
as close together as possible. Lift the cookies on a broad knife
or spatula and lay them on a greased baking-sheet, allowing a
little space between for possible spreading.
483
SAVE ALL THE TRIMMINGS for the last rolling. The last
cookies will not be of the same texture as the first because of
the extra flour which will be worked into the dough in the
process of mixing the trimmings into a mass to be rolled again.
FROSTED DELIGHTS
1/2 cup shortening iy 2 cups pastry or cake flour
1 cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder
2 eggs l /2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon salt
Cream shortening and sugar until light and fluffy. Add beat-
en eggs and sifted dry ingredients. Add vanilla and mix well.
Spread the batter onto a baking sheet as thinly as possible and
frost with the following:
Remove lumps from 1 cup brown sugar and fold into 1 stiff-
ly beaten egg white. Spread onto cookie batter, sprinkle with 1
cup chopped nuts and bake in moderate oven (325 F.) 30
minutes. Cut in squares. Makes 24 to 36.
SUGAR COOKIES
% cup shortening 2 teaspoons baking-powder
1 cup sugar % cup milk
2 eggs l /2 teaspoon salt
3 cups flour l / 2 teaspoon vanilla
Cream the shortening and mix well with the sugar, add the
beaten egg, then the flour, baking-powder and salt sifted to-
gether, alternating with the milk. Roll and cut in any desired
shape. Sprinkle with sugar before baking. Bake in a moderate
oven (350-375 F., 10-12 minutes).
RICH COOKIES
l /2 cup shortening % cup flour
% cup sugar l /2 teaspoon vanilla
1 egg well beaten Raisins, nuts or citron
Cream the shortening, add sugar gradually, egg, flour, and
vanilla. Drop from tip of spoon in small portions on buttered
sheet two inches apart. Spread thin with a knife first dipped
in cold water and bake quickly at 375 F. Put four Sultana
raisins on each cookie, almonds blanched and cut in strips, or
citron cut in small pieces.
COOKIES, DOUGHNUTS, ETC. 485
SAND TARTS
l /2 cup shortening 2 teaspoons baking-powder
1 cup sugar % teaspoon cinnamon
1 egg Nuts or raisins
1/4 CU P S
Cream shortening, add sugar slowly, then the unbeaten egg.
Sift in the flour and baking-powder, and add more flour if neces-
sary to make a stiff dough. Roll out very thin. Cut with a
doughnut cutter. Sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon, and, if
desired, decorate with nuts or fruit. Bake in a moderate oven
(350-375 F., 10-12 minutes).
CARAWAY COOKIES
l /2 cup shortening 2 teaspoons baking-powder
1 cup sugar l /2 teaspoon salt
1 egg Y 4 cup milk
2 cups flour l l /2 tablespoons caraway seeds
Cream the shortening with the sugar; add beaten egg. Mix
and sift the flour, baking-powder, and salt, and add alternately
with the milk to the first mixture. Add caraway seeds. Toss
on lightly floured board. Roll out about one-half inch thick
and cut in fancy shapes. Place on greased baking-sheet and
bake in moderate oven (350 F.).
ICEBOX COOKIES
% cup butter 1 teaspoon salt
% cup other shortening 1 teaspoon cinnamon
2 cups medium brown sugar 2 teaspoons baking-powder
4 eggs 5 cups flour
Cream the shortenings together and with the sugar. Add
the well-beaten eggs and beat well. Sift all the dry ingredients
together and add to the first mixture. Pack the dough into a
butter carton, or form into roll. Wrap in wax paper and put
in the coldest part of the refrigerator for several hours. Slice
as thin as possible with a very sharp knife, place on a greased
baking-sheet, and bake for ten minutes in a moderate oven
(375 F.). A part of the mixture may be baked and the re-
mainder kept in the refrigerator for later use.
486
LEMON WAFERS
1 cup shortening 3 tablespoons lemon-juice
2 cups sugar Flour
3 eggs
Cream the shortening, add the sugar, the well-beaten eggs,
and the lemon- juice. Stir in only enough flour to make as
soft a dough as can be rolled. Roll very thin and shape with a
cutter. Bake in a moderate oven (350-37S F., 10-12 min-
utes) .
FILLED COOKIES
1 cup sugar 3 cups flour
% cup shortening 3 teaspoons baking-powder
2 eggs l /z teaspoon salt
J4 cup milk 1 teaspoon vanilla
Mix ingredients in order given, sifting the flour with the
baking-powder and salt before adding it. Roll thin, cut, and
put in greased pans. Place a teaspoon of filling on each, not
allowing it to spread to the edge, place another cookie on top,
press down the edges, and bake in shallow pans in a quick oven
(400-425 F., 10-15 minutes).
FILLING
l /2 cup sugar 1 cup chopped raisins, dates,
1 tablespoon flour figs, prunes, apricots or
1/2 cup water marmalade
Mix sugar and flour together, add to the other ingredients,
and cook until thick, stirring constantly.
BROWN SUGAR COOKIES
2 cups brown sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup melted shortening 2 teaspoons baking-powder
3 eggs Flour to mix stiff
l / 4 cup milk
Mix ingredients in order given. Add just enough flour to
roll. Cut into shapes as desired. Sprinkle with brown sugar^
and bake in a moderate oven (350-375 F., 10-12 minutes).
MAKE GOOD USE OF
YOUR EQUIPMENT
FOR SUGAR, ICEBOX
OR FROSTED COOK-
IES IN LIMITLESS
VARIETIES
LN.
VARJATICJM?
NUT
CX>CONUT
TROSTI
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COOKIES, DOUGHNUTS, ETC. 487
CHOCOLATE DROP COOKIES
2 squares chocolate 1 egg
l /2 cup shortening 2 cups flour
1 cup brown sugar l /z cup sweet milk
l /2 teaspoon soda
Melt the chocolate and add to the melted shortening. Add
sugar, egg and milk, then the soda and flour sifted together.
Drop by spoonfuls on greased pans, and bake in a moderate
oven (375-400 F.> 12-15 minutes). Frost, if desired.
BROWNIES
2 squares chocolate l /2 teaspoon salt
l /4 cup shortening l /z cup flour
1 cup white sugar l /2 cup nuts
1 egg
Melt chocolate and add it to the melted shortening. Add
sugar, egg, salt and flour and chopped nuts. Pour into greased
baking-pans, and bake in a moderate oven (350-400 F.)
about twenty minutes. They will look half baked, but mark
off in squares or strips when you take them from the oven, and
they will harden as they cool. Remove from the pans when
cool. Serve with afternoon tea. These resemble fudge in taste
and appearance.
NUT COOKIES
l /4 cup shortening 2 teaspoons baking-powder
l /2 cup sugar l / 2 teaspoon salt
2 eggs 1 tablespoon milk
1 cup flour 1 cup chopped nuts
1 teaspoon vanilla or almond
Cream shortening and sugar, add eggs well beaten. Sift dry
ingredients together and add alternately with milk. Stir in nuts
and flavoring and mix well. Drop from teaspoon on a greased
baking-sheet and place a nut on top of each. Bake in a moderate
oven (375-400 F., 12-15 minutes). This makes about three
dozen cookies.
488
CRISP GINGER COOKIES
% cup sugar 2 teaspoons ginger
1 cup molasses l /4 CU P vinegar
1 cup shortening Flour to mold
1 teaspoon soda
Mix sugar, molasses and vinegar. Add melted shortening.
Sift soda and ginger with one cup of flour and add mixture.
Add enough flour to roll very thin. Bake in a moderate oven
(375 F.) watching carefully^ as ginger cookies burn rather
easily.
PEANUT COOKIES
l /4 cup shortening l /z teaspoon salt
1 cup brown sugar 2 cups flour
2 eggs 2 teaspoons baking-powder
l /4 cup milk 1 cup chopped peanuts
Melt shortening; add brown sugar, eggs and milk. Add sifted
salt, flour and baking-powder, and chopped peanuts. Drop by
teaspoonfuls on greased pans, an inch or two apart. Place a
half peanut on each and bake in a quick oven (400 F.).
SOFT MOLASSES COOKIES
1 cup shortening 2 teaspoons soda
% cup sugar 1 teaspoon ginger
1 cup molasses l /2 teaspoon salt
l /4 cup sour milk 2 l /2 cups flour
Cream the shortening and the sugar and add the molasses and
milk. Mix well and add dry ingredients mixed and sifted to-
gether. Mix thoroughly. Roll the dough thin and cut in
rounds. Chilling the dough before rolling makes it easier to
handle. Bake in greased sheet in moderate hot oven (375 F.).
GINGER SNAPS
1, cup molasses 3 cups flour
l /2 cup shortening 1 teaspoon soda
l /4 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons ginger
Heat the molasses and shortening. Mix and sift the dry in-
gredients and add to first mixture. Thoroughly chill, toss on
COOKIES, DOUGHNUTS, ETC. 489
lightly floured board, and roll out very thin. Cut as desired.
The bowl containing the remaining dough must be kept in a
cool place or it will be necessary to add more flour. Excess
flour will make the cookies hard and unattractive. Put on
greased baking-sheet and bake in a moderate oven (375 F.,
8-10 minutes).
SOUR MILK JUMBLES
1 cup shortening 2 teaspoons baking-powder
2 cups sugar l /z teaspoon salt
3 eggs l /z teaspoon soda
1 cup sour milk l /z nutmeg, grated
6 cups flour
Cream the shortening with the sugar and add the eggs, well
beaten. Mix and sift the dry ingredients and add them to the
sugar and shortening alternately with the milk. Roll out in
a thick sheet and cut with a doughnut cutter. Bake in a moder-
ate hot oven (375 F.).
RAISIN ROCKS
1 cup shortening 1 teaspoon ginger
1 cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon soda
1 teaspoon salt 2 cups molasses
Flour 1 cup seeded raisins
Put the shortening, sugar, molasses, ginger and salt into a
saucepan together. Stir the mixture until it boils; then boil
it five minutes. Pour into a bowl and stir in flour and soda
sifted together until it is just stiff enough to drop from a spoon.
Add the raisins and drop by spoonfuls on to a greased shallow
pan. Bake the rocks in a moderate oven (375-400 F.).
MAPLE-SUGAR ROCKS
1 cup shortening 3 eggs
1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 1 / 2 cups maple sugar
1 cup walnuts 2 l / 2 cups flour
Melt shortening, add crushed maple sugar, eggs, and cinna-
mon. Mix together and add chopped nuts and flour. Drop
by spoonfuls on greased pans, and bake in a moderate oven
(375 -400 F.).
49
HERMITS
/a cup shortening 1 tablespoon molasses
l /2 cup sugar 1 teaspoon each of various
2 eggs desired spices
2 tablespoons milk 2 teaspoons baking-powder
1 cup chopped raisins Flour
Cream shortening, add sugar gradually. Add eggs, molasses,
milk and raisins. Sift baking-powder and spices with one cup
of flour, and mix all thoroughly. Add enough flour to make
quite a stiff dough, and roll. Bake in a moderate oven (375-
400 F.).
HONEY HERMITS
1% cups strained honey 1 cup chopped raisins
*/3 cup shortening 1 1 /2 teaspoons cinnamon
2 eggs l /2, teaspoon cloves
l /2 cup milk 5 l /2 cups flour
YZ teaspoon salt 4 teaspoons baking-powder
Mix strained honey and melted shortening. Add eggs, milk,
salt and raisins. Sift cinnamon, cloves, and baking-powder with
the flour. Beat well, and drop on a greased pan. Bake in a
moderate oven (375-400 F.) until brown.
HONEY GINGERNUTS
1 cup strained honey 1 egg
1 cup sugar 1 tablespoon ginger
1 cup melted shortening 1 cup chopped nuts
2 teaspoons baking-powder Flour
Mix honey, sugar, melted shortening and beaten egg. Add
chopped nuts, then baking-powder and ginger sifted with one
cup of flour. Add more flour to make a batter of the right
consistency to drop from a spoon on to a greased pan. Bake
in a moderate oven (375-400 F.).
COOKIES, DOUGHNUTS, ETC. 491
ROLLED OATS COOKIES
1 cup sugar l /z teaspoon soda
5/2 cup mblasses 2 cups flour
1 cup shortening 1 cup chopped raisins sprin-
2 eggs kled with 2 tablespoon*
54 cup sweet milk flour
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 2 cups rolled oats
1 teaspoon ground cloves
Mix ingredients in the order given. Melt the shortening be-
fore adding it, and sift the soda and spices with the flour. Drop
by teaspoonfuls on greased pans and bake in a moderate oven
(375-400 R).
Doughnuts, Crullers and Sweet Fritters
SWEET MILK DOUGHNUTS
2 tablespoons shortening 1 teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar l /z teaspoon nutmeg
3 eggs l /z teaspoon lemon extract
1 cup milk Flour
3 teaspoons baking-powder
Beat the eggs till very light, add the sugar and when foamy
add the melted shortening. Sift the baking-powder, salt and
nutmeg with one cup of flour and stir into first mixture, alter-
nating with the milk. Add the lemon flavoring and just enough
flour to make a soft dough which can be handled. Roll out
three-fourths inch thick on a lightly floured board. A soft
dough makes light, tender doughnuts when cooked. Fry in
deep fat (3 60 -370 F.) and drain on unglazed paper. If
you have no thermometer test the fat for temperature as di-
rected on page 26.
SOUR MILK
1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon baking-powder
2 tablespoons sour cream l /2 teaspoon salt
or shortening l / 2 teaspoon lemon extract
3 eggs y 2 teaspoon nutmeg
1 cup sour milk 4 l /2 cups flour (more or less)
l /2 teaspoon soda
Mix the sugar with the cream and add the beaten eggs and
sour milk. Sift the other dry ingredients with one cup of flour
492
x^v^x
and add to the first mixture. Add additional flour to make a
dough just stiff enough to handle. Toss on a floured board, roll
out, and cut. Fry in deep fat (360-370 E). If you have
no thermometer, test temperature of fat as directed on page 26.
Drain on unglazed paper. When cold, roll in powdered sugar.
RAISED^ (The recipe for raised doughnuts is given on page
114.)
CRULLERS
l /4 cup shortening 3 1 /2 teaspoons baking-powder
1 cup sugar % teaspoon grated nutmeg
2 eggs l /2 teaspoon salt
1 cup milk Flour
Cream the shortening. Add sugar; then the well-beaten eggs.
Sift the baking-powder, nutmeg, and salt with one cup of flour
and add alternately with the milk to the first mixture. Add
additional flour to make a dough stiff enough to handle. Toss
on floured board, roll one-half inch thick and cut into strips.
Twist and fry in deep fat (3 60 -3 70 F.). If you have no
thermometer, test temperature of fat as directed on page 26.
Drain on unglazed paper and when cold roll in powdered sugar.
This recipe makes about three dozen crullers.
FRITTER BATTER
1 % cups flour % cup milk
l /4 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons powdered sugar
2 teaspoons baking-powder (for sweet fritters only)
1 e gg
Sift dry ingredients, add egg, well beaten, and milk. The
batter should be just thick enough to coat the article it is in-
tended to cover. If it is too thin, add more flour; if too thick,
add more liquid.
APPLE FRITTERS
1 cup milk 2 cups flour
2 eggs 1 tablespoon baking-powder
1 teaspoon sugar Apples
Salt
To the milk add the well-beaten egg-yolks and the sugar,
then the flour mixed and sifted with the baking-powder and
COOKIES, DOUGHNUTS, ETC. 493
the salt. Then fold in the stiffly beaten whites. Add sliced
sour apples, being careful to get the batter all over them. Drop
by spoonfuls into deep fat (3 60 -3 70 F.) and fry two to three
minutes. Serve with powdered sugar or foamy sauce.
BANANA FRITTERS
6 bananas 3 tablespoons orange-juice
2 tablespoons sugar Fritter batter
Peel bananas, cut each in two and split each half. Place the
pieces in a bowl with sugar and orange- juice and let them stand
for one hour. Drain the fruit, dip in batter and fry in deep
fat (3 60 -3 70 F.) from two to three minutes. Serve with
powdered sugar or foamy sauce.
PEACH FRITTERS
Peaches Fritter batter Powdered sugar
Peel the peaches, split them in two, remove the stones, sprinkle
powdered sugar over them, dip each piece into fritter batter
and fry two to three minutes in deep fat (3 60 -370 F.).
Serve with powdered sugar or foamy sauce.
RASPBERRY FRITTERS
1 cup flour 2 eggs
1 teaspoon baking powder 2 to 3 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon salt 1 cup raspberries
2 tablespoons sugar
Sift together flour, baking powder and salt. Add sugar$
egg-yolks and water. Fold in the stiffly beaten egg-whites and
the raspberries leaving the fruit as nearly whole as possible.
The amount of water may vary somewhat. The batter should
be thin enough to fold in the fruit, but thick enough to hold
together well; otherwise, the fruit in cooking will soften it
too much.
Drop the fritter mixture from a tablespoon into deep fat
(3 60 -3 70 F.) and fry until brown, turning once. Serve
with powdered sugar or foamy sauce.
494
Gingerbread and Small Cakes
GINGERBREAD
SUGAR AND MOLASSES
Y 2 cup molasses l / 2 teaspoon soda
l /2 cup sugar 1 cup flour
l /2 cup melted shortening 1 teaspoon ginger
1/2 cup sour milk 2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 egg Nutmeg
Mix ingredients in order given, sifting the soda with the flour
before adding it. Bake in a moderate oven (350 -3 75 F.)
in a greased shallow pan or in muffin-tins. Care must be taken
to prevent burning.
Gingerbread makes a delicious dessert served with whipped
cream.
SOFT MOLASSES
l /4 cup shortening l / 2 teaspoon salt
1 cup molasses 1 tablespoon ginger
1 tablespoon vinegar 1 cup sour milk
1 egg 2 cups flour
1 teaspoon soda
Melt the shortening; add the molasses, vinegar, and beaten
egg. Mix and sift the dry ingredients and add alternately with
the milk. Pour into a greased pan and bake thirty to forty
minutes Jn a moderate oven (350-375 F.). Batter should be
just thin enough so that the track left by the spoon in stirring
disaooears at once.
HOT WATER
Yz cup shortening l l / 2 teaspoons ginger
l /z cup boiling water 1 teaspoon soda
1 cup molasses l / 2 teaspoon salt
2 l / 2 cups flour
Melt the shortening in the boiling water. Add molasses. Sift
the dry ingredients together and add them to the mixture. Beat
vigorously. Put in a greased pan and bake in a moderate oven
(350 s -375 F.) thirty to forty minutes.
COOKIES, DOUGHNUTS, ETC. 495
NUT CAKES
2 eggs 2 teaspoons baking-powder
l /2 cup molasses l /2 teaspoon salt
l /2 cup sugar 1 tablespoon shortening
1 cup flour l /z cup chopped nut-meats
Beat the eggs slightly and add the molasses and sugar. Mix
and sift the flour, baking-powder and salt, and stir them into
the first mixture. Add melted shortening and nuts, and half
fill shallow greased molds with the mixture. Place a nut-meat
in the center of each. Bake in a moderate oven (375 F.) for
twenty-five minutes.
TEA CAKES
2 tablespoons melted shorten- 1 cup milk
ing 3 teaspoons baking-powder
l /z cup sugar 2 cups flour
1 egg 1 cup chopped nuts
Cream the shortening with the sugar; add the beaten egg;
then add the milk alternately with the sifted ingredients. Add
the floured nuts last. Bake in greased muffin-pans in a moderate
oven (375 F.). Split each cake, butter it, and sprinkle with
sugar and cinnamon or with grated maple sugar and chopped
nuts. Serve hot with afternoon tea.
LITTLE CHOCOLATE CAKES
J /4 cup shortening 2 squares melted chocolate
1 cup sugar 1 cup flour
l /z cup milk 1 teaspoon baking-powder
2 eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla
Cream the shortening, add the sugar slowly, then the beaten
egg-yolks. Melt the chocolate and add. Add flour and baking-
powder sifted together, alternating with milk, then add vanilla
and fold in stiffly beaten egg-whites. Bake in greased muffin-
pans in a moderate oven (375 F.).
496
MOCHA TORTE
4 eggs l / 2 cup flour
1 cup sugar l / 2 teaspoon vanilla
1 tablespoon melted butter 1 teaspoon baking-powder
1 cup ground nuts l / 2 teaspoon salt
Separate the eggs and add sugar to the yolks, beating until
creamy. Beat in the butter and add the flour sifted with the
baking-powder and salt. Add vanilla. Beat the whites of the
eggs, then add the ground nuts, stirring them into the first
mixture. Bake in two layers for fifteen minutes in a moderate
oven (350 R).
FILLING
l /2 pint cream 1 tablespoon confectioners'
1 tablespoon essence of coffee sugar
Beat the cream until it is stiff enough to hold its shape, add
the coffee and sugar and put the filling between and on top
of the layers. Use a pastry tube to make it decorative.
PETITS FOURS
4 eggs 1 cup flour
1 cup sugar 1 1 /2 teaspoons baking-powder
3 tablespoons cold water % teaspoon salt
1 l /z tablespoons corn-starch Flavoring
To the beaten yolks of the eggs, add sugar and cold water.
Sift the corn-starch with the flour, baking-powder and salt.
Add to first mixture. Beat well and add the stiffly beaten whites
of the eggs and any flavoring desired. Bake for one-half hour
in a moderate oven (375 F.) in shallow pans. When cool,
cut in small circles, split, scoop out a little of the crumb from
the center of each and fill cavities with whipped cream, custard,
or any preferred filling. Press together in pairs, dip in melted
fondant, decorate with nuts, glace fruits, and so forth, and place
each little cake in a paper case.
HALLOWE'EN CAKES
Cover the bottom of individual cake-tins with any good plain
cake batter, place a prepared emblem in the center of each and
cover with batter, filling tins not more than two-thirds full.
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COOKIES, DOUGHNUTS, ETC. 497
Bake in an oven registering 375 F. till browned and firm to
the touch. Remove from tins and, when almost cold, cover
with a boiled frosting. Let threads of frosting fall irregularly
over the top to suggest "cobwebs in the sky." While the frost-
ing is still soft, stick a tiny orange-colored candle in the top
and press a black-cat cut-out against one side.
To PREPARE EMBLEMS Sterilize small rings, thimbles, coins,
china dolls (no lead toys) or other appropriate bits in boiling
water. Dry and wrap closely in waxed paper.
MARSHMALLOW FIG CAKES
Angel cake Marshmallows
Chopped figs Maraschino cherries
Sirup of preserved ginger
Cut slices of angel cake into rounds. Moisten the figs with
the ginger sirup, and spread the paste over each round of cake.
Place a marshmallow in the center of each and bake in a mod-
erate oven (375 F.) until the marshmallows spread. Decorate
with maraschino cherries.
DATE SURPRISE
Bake any good plain cake batter in a cake-tin with a center
tube or remove the centers from cup cakes. Cover the outside
with plain white icing and fill the centers with date filling.
Garnish with whipped cream and candied cherries.
DATE FILLING
1 cup steamed and chopped 6 marshmallows cut in small
dates pieces
l /2 cup chopped walnuts 1 cup sweetened whipped
l /2 teaspoon vanilla cream
CREAM PUFFS
1 cup boiling water 1 cup flour
l /z cup shortening 4 eggs
Add the boiling water to the shortening, bring to a boil and
stir in the flour thoroughly. Remove from the fire, let the
mixture cool slightly and add the eggs one at a time, beating
in each one for some time before adding the next. Drop by
498
^^^vx>^-
spoonfuls on a greased pan about two inches apart, shaping into
a circular form and having the batter a little higher in the cen-
ter. Bake one-half hour in a moderate to slow oven (400 F.
for ten minutes then reduce to 350 F.). If these cakes are re-
moved from the oven before they are thoroughly done, they
will fall. Take out one; if it does not fall, the others may be
removed.
Cool ; cut a slit in one side, and fill with cream filling, whipped
cream, or a fruit mixture.
Cream puffs and eclairs make an excellent foundation for a
great variety of desserts. Split them open; fill with any kind
of ice-cream; cover with any sauce or combination of sauces.
Serve immediately.
ECLAIRS
Make cream-puff batter (sometimes called choux paste) and
press it through a pastry bag on to a greased tin, forming strips
three and one-half inches long and one inch wide. Keep the
strips a little distance apart. Bake and cool as directed for
cream puffs, then split lengthwise, and fill with cream filling or
whipped cream. Frost the top half of the eclairs by dipping
while hot into boiled frosting, flavored with chocolate, vanilla,
or coffee.
LADY FINGERS
5 tablespoons powdered sugar l / 2 teaspoon vanilla
3 egg-whites % cup flour
2 egg-yolks l / 4 teaspoon salt
Add the powdered sugar to the stiffly beaten egg-whites. Add
to these the two well-beaten yolks and the vanilla extract. Fold
in the flour, which has been sifted twice with the salt. Line a
pan with paper but do not grease it. Press the batter through
a pastry bag on to the paper, forming strips four inches long
and one inch wide. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and bake
in a slow oven (300-325 F.) for ten minutes.
SPONGE DROPS
Form lady-finger batter in a circular shape ; bake, and dip the
tops of the cakes into boiled frosting of any flavor.
COOKIES, DOUGHNUTS, ETC. 499
MERINGUES AND KISSES
2 egg-whites l /2 teaspoon vanilla or 1 table-
l /2 to 5 /s cup powdered sugar spoon lemon-juice
Pinch of salt
Beat the egg-whites stiff, adding the salt. Add two-thirds of
the sugar gradually, beating constantly, and fold the rest care-
fully into the mixture. Heap in rounds or press through a
pastry bag on to a wet board covered with an ungreased paper.
Bake on the board in a very slow oven (250-300 F.) from
forty to sixty minutes. The kisses should be very light brown
and quite dry. If they adhere to the paper, moisten the other
side of the paper by placing it on a wet cloth, and they will slip
off easily.
The smaller shapes or kisses may be stuck together in pairs
with a little white of egg. The meringues, which are usually
made larger, may be scooped out and filled with ice-cream or
whipped cream. Filled with ice-cream, they are known as
meringues glacees.
COCONUT KISSES
4 egg-whites l /z teaspoon lemon extract
l /2 pound powdered sugar Moist coconut
Beat the egg-whites stiff, add sugar and beat until light and
white, then add the lemon extract, and enough coconut to make
it as thick as can be easily stirred with a spoon. Drop on greased
paper and bake in a slow oven (250-300 F.).
KORNETTES
1 egg-white % cup chopped pop-corn
l /$ cup light brown sugar % teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons shortening l / 2 teaspoon vanilla
Beat the white of the egg very stiff and, still beating, mix in
the sugar. Melt the shortening and into this stir the chopped
pop-corn, salt and vanilla. Fold the two mixtures together and
drop by spoonfuls on a greased baking-sheet. Bake in a slow
oven (250-300 F.).
500
RAISIN NUT DELIGHTS
3 egg-whites l /2 cup broken pecans
l /2 cup granulated sugar l /z cup seeded raisins
Beat the egg-whites until they are stiff enough to hold their
shape, then beat in the sugar gradually. Fold in the nuts and
raisins and drop from a spoon on to the baking-pan. Bake in
a slow oven (250-300 R).
ALMOND- MACAROONS
l /2 pound sweet almonds l /z pound powdered sugar
2 egg-whites
Blanch the almonds and pound them to a paste; add the
sugar and stiffly beaten egg-whites. Work the whole together
with the back of a spoon, then roll the mixture in the hands to
form balls about the size of a nutmeg. Lay them on a paper
at least an inch apart, and bake in a slow oven (250-300 R)
until light brown.
COCONUT
1 egg-white J/3 cup condensed milk
1% cups moist coconut l /z teaspoon vanilla
Beat the egg-white until stiff, then fold it into the mixture
of coconut and condensed milk. Add flavoring. Drop by
spoonfuls on a greased baking-sheet and shape into cakes. Bake
in a slow oven (250-300 F.) until lightly browned.
BROWN SUGAR
1 egg-white 1 cup chopped salted nuts 1 cup brown sugar
Beat the sugar into the stiffly beaten egg-white, and add the
nuts. Drop by spoonfuls on a greased pan and bake in a slow
oven (2SO-300 F.).
NUT OATMEAL
1 egg % cup chopped walnuts
l /2 cup sugar % teaspoon salt
l /4 teaspoon vanilla 2 teaspoons melted shortening
% cup rolled oats
Beat egg until very light, add sugar slowly, beating con-
stantly. Add flavoring, oats, salt, nuts and melted shortening.
COOKIES, DOUGHNUTS, ETC. 501
Drop from teaspoon on greased baking-sheet and bake in a slow
oven (350 F.) until browned (about 10 minutes). Remove
from pan while warm. This makes about eighteen macaroons.
LACE CAKES
2 eggs 1 tablespoon butter or other
l /2 cup brown sugar shortening
1 cup rolled oats l /2 teaspoon vanilla
l /4 teaspoon salt
Beat the eggs, add the sugar and, when these are well mixed,
add the oats and salt. Melt the shortening and stir into the
mixture. Add vanilla. Drop by spoonfuls on a greased bak-
ing-sheet and spread very thin with the back of the spoon.
Bake in a moderate oven (3 50 -400 F.) ten to twelve min-
utes.
BUTTERSCOTCH STICKS
l /4 cup butter 1 cup sifted flour
1 cup brown sugar *4 teaspoon salt
1 egg 1 teaspoon baking-powder
% cup broken pecan meats 1 teaspoon vanilla
Melt butter in a saucepan, add sugar and when well blended
remove from the fire and cool, in the saucepan, until luke-
warm. Add unbeaten egg to mixture and beat well. Mix
flour, salt and baking-powder, and add to the sugar mixture;
then add the nut meats and vanilla. Spread the mixture in a
shallow pan lined with plain paper which has been greased.
Bake 30 minutes in a hot oven (400 -450 F.). While hot,
cut into strips an inch wide and four inches long. This recipe
makes about two dozen.
BRAN COCONUT DROPS
1 cup cooking bran 2 egg-whites
l /2 cup coconut l / 2 teaspoon almond extract
Y 4 cup sugar
Beat the egg-whites, and add the other ingredients. Drop
from a teaspoon on a greased baking-sheet. Bake in a mod-
erate oven (400 F.) until browned.
CANDIES
TV7HEN sugar and a liquid are boiled together, a sirup is
VV formed which grows thicker as the boiling continues.
The thickness of the sirup determines the general type of candy
that will result.
Testing the Sirup
The simplest and most accurate method of determining
whether the sirup is thick enough for your purpose is to measure
its temperature, because the temperature rises steadily as the
sirup thickens.
A CANDY THERMOMETER registering up to 350 F. is not
expensive, and it will not only give you a higher average of
success in candy making but will save you the time and labor
that must otherwise be given to testing the sirup. A table
giving the various stages of sugar cookery will be found on
page 12.
IF You ARE NOT PROVIDED WITH A THERMOMETER, the
following test will help you to determine when to take your
candy from the fire.
Drop a little sirup into ice-cold water and pinch it between
the thumb and finger:
Soft ball stage (for fondant and fudge) the sirup forms a
soft ball which loses its shape immediately when removed from
the water.
Stiff ball stage (for caramels and nougat) the sirup forms a
stiff ball which retains its shape for a second or two when
removed from the water and then flattens out.
Hard ball stage (for molasses taffy and soft candies to be
pulled) the sirup forms a hard ball which will roll about on a
cold buttered plate when removed from the water.
Light to medium crack stage (for toffee and butterscotch and
hard candies to be pulled) the sirup forms spirals or threads
which are brittle under water but which soften when removed
from the water and stick to the teeth when chewed.
Hard crack stage (for clear brittle candies) the sirup forms
spirals or threads which are brittle when removed from the
water and do not stick to the teeth when chewed.
502
CANDIES 53
CREAMY CANDIES Creaminess is desirable in soft candies.
"Creamy" means that the texture should be very smooth, not
grainy at all; soft but not sticky. This means that the sugar
must not remain as a sirup, but must crystallize. The crystals,
however, must be very fine, so that they can not be felt by
the fingers or in the mouth.
Creamy candy should not be overcooked. If it reaches too
high a temperature, accidentally, a little water may be added
and it may be recooked to the correct temperature. This does
not give as good a result as one cooking to the correct tempera-
ture, but it improves a poor product.
Creamy candy should be cooled before it is beaten. Beating
candy while it is hot causes large crystals to form and grainy
candy results. If crystals that form on the side of the pan in
which candy is cooked fall back into the candy, they tend to
cause large crystals to form and to make grainy candy.
A small amount of corn sirup tends to prevent grainy candy.
Creamy candies made with corn sirup will require longer beat-
ing before crystallization takes place than will candies made
from all granulated sugar. They also soften more quickly on
standing. If too much sirup is. used, the candy will not crystal-
lize at all and the best thing to do with it is to boil it until it
reaches the proper stage for a pulled or brittle candy.
One-eighth teaspoon of cream of tartar or one-half teaspoon
of lemon- juice or acetic acid to two cups of sugar may be used
instead of corn sirup or glucose. They change part of the gran-
ulated sugar to glucose during the cooking process.
Ingredients Used in Candies
SUGARS Granulated, confectioners', brown and maple sugar,
corn sirup, molasses, honey and maple and cane sirups are all
used in candy, according to the flavor and texture desired. The
light-brown sugar should be chosen rather than the darker
brown, for a candy of delicate flavor. The same thing is true if
corn sirup or molasses is used; the lighter color gives the less
strong flavor.
Brown sugar and molasses contain an acid, which if used in
candies with milk causes the milk to curdle. Therefore, candy
containing these two ingredients should be stirred while it is
cooking. Crystallization does not readily occur here because
the milk tends to prevent it.
504
j^r
OTHER INGREDIENTS Nuts of all sorts, chocolate or cocoa,
butter, milk, cream, egg-whites and fruits such as dates, figs,
raisins and candied cherries, give special flavor or texture.
Butter is often used because of its flavor and because it tends
to make a creamy product. Other mild-flavored fats may
be used instead of butter, particularly in candies containing
chocolate, brown sugar or molasses.
Chocolate contributes flavor and tends to make a smooth
candy because of the fat it contains. Three tablespoons of cocoa
and two-thirds of a tablespoon of butter may be used instead
of one square of chocolate.
Fresh milk, dried milk or canned milk, sweetened or un-
sweetened, may be used in candies.
CHOCOLATE FUDGE
2 cups sugar % cup milk
1 or 2 squares chocolate 1 teaspoon vanilla
5/8 teaspoon cream of tartar 2 tablespoons butter
or 2 tablespoons corn sirup
Mix the sugar, milk, grated chocolate, cream of tartar or corn
sirup and boil rather slowly, stirring until the ingredients are
well blended. Boil to the soft-ball stage (238 F.). Remove
from the stove, add the butter, but do not stir it in. When
lukewarm, add the vanilla and beat until it creams; that is,
until the shiny appearance disappears and the fudge will hold
its shape when dropped from the spoon. Spread it in a buttered
pan and when it hardens mark it into squares.
MARSHMALLOW FUDGE
To the recipe for chocolate fudge add three tablespoons of
marshmallow cream just after taking it from the fire. Beat
well and pour into buttered pans.
MAPLE FUDGE
2 1 /2 cups maple sugar l /z cup boiling water
1 cup cream or milk 1 cup broken nut-meats
Break the maple sugar into small pieces and heat it in a
saucepan with the water. When it is dissolved, add the milk.
Boil to the soft-ball stage (238 F.). Remove from the fire
CANDIES 55
and cool. When it is lukewarm, beat until it creams and add
the nut-meats. Spread it in a buttered pan and when it hardens
mark it into squares.
DIVINITY FUDGE
2 cups sugar 2 egg-whites
l /2 cup corn sirup % cup blanched almonds
l /2 cup water 1 tablespoon almond or
% cup candied cherries lemon extract
Put the sugar, water and corn sirup into a saucepan. Stir
it while it dissolves over the fire, then let it boil without stirring
to the light crack stage (265 F.) . While it is cooking, beat the
whites of eggs stiffly and when the sirup is ready pour it over
them, beating constantly. Beat until creamy, add nuts, cherries
and extract, and pour into buttered tins.
MAPLE DIVINITY FUDGE
Follow preceding recipe, using in addition one-half cup
maple sirup.
OTHER VARIATIONS OF FUDGE
Brown sugar may be used partly or entirely in place of white
or maple sugar. If brown sugar is used, the cream of tartar or
corn sirup should be omitted.
Condensed milk may be used instead of fresh milk. It should
have water added according to the directions on the can.
Peanut butter may be used instead of chocolate, using two
tablespoons of the butter to each cup of sugar in the recipe.
Like butter or other fat it should be added after the fudge is
cooked.
Marshmallows or marshmallow cream may be added to any
fudge after it has been taken from the fire. One cup of marsh-
mallow to two cups of sugar is a good proportion.
Any kind of broken nuts, including coconut, may be added
to the fudge just before it is turned into the pan.
Candied cherries, or other fruits, chopped candied orange-
peel or citron may be added. Dates and raisins are often used.
Flavoring may be varied to suit. Orange extract is good with
506
^s*^~^
brown sugar, chocolate or molasses. Lemon extract or lemon-
juice is good in a white-sugar fudge from which the chocolate is
omitted.
FUDGE-COVERED DATES
Cut dates in half, lengthwise; remove the pits and lay the
halves at intervals on a greased dish. Make fudge according to
any fudge recipe and drop a teaspoonf ul on each half date. This
must be done quickly, to avoid letting the fudge harden in the
pan. The hardening may be delayed by standing the pan in a
larger one containing hot water.
PANOCHA
3 cups brown sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup milk 1 cup nut-meats
2 tablespoons butter
Put the sugar and milk into a saucepan and cook to the soft-
ball stage, or 238 F. Remove from the fire, add butter and
vanilla, and cool without stirring. When it is lukewarm, beat
until it is creamy. Stir in the broken nut-meats. Hickory
nuts, walnuts or pecans are especially nice. Pour into a buttered
pan and when it hardens mark into squares.
MAPLE PRALINES
2 cups sugar 1 cup maple sirup
34 cup milk 2 cups pecan-meats
Boil the sugar, milk and maple sirup until the mixture
reaches the soft-ball stage (238 F.). Remove from the fire
and cool. When it is lukewarm, beat until it is smooth and
creamy. Add any kind of broken nut-meats and drop on
buttered paper from the tip of a spoon, making little mounds.
FONDANT
2 cups granulated sugar 2 tablespoons corn sirup or
1 cup water y 8 teaspoon cream of tartar
1 teaspoon vanilla
Put the sugar, corn sirup and water in a saucepan and heat
slowly. Do not let it begin to boil until the sugar is dissolved.
Wash down the sides of the pan with a fork wrapped in a damp
CANDIES 507
cloth or else cover and cook for two or three minutes so that
the steam will carry down the crystals that have been thrown
on the side of the pan. Remove the cover and continue to boil
slowly without stirring to the soft-ball stage (238 F.). While
cooking, keep the cover on part of the time so the steam can
help to keep the crystals washed down.
Remove from the fire and pour at once on large platters or
slabs which have been dipped into cold water, and let it stand
until it is lukewarm. Stir with a spatula or a fork till it is
creamy; then knead with the hands until it is smooth and free
from lumps.
Fondant is better if allowed to ripen for several days before
being used. It may be wrapped in waxed paper and put into a
tightly covered jar. When it is to be used for centers of dipped
bonbons the centers should be shaped by hand or in molds and
allowed to stand in the air until the surface loses all stickiness.
Then the shapes may be dipped into the coating.
HONEY FONDANT
2 cups granulated sugar l /$ cup honey 1 cup water
Proceed as for plain fondant.
CANDIES MADE FROM FONDANT
TUTTI-FRUTTI Knead fondant and flavor with cherry or
almond extract. Knead into it one-third its amount of a mix-
ture of raisins, dates, figs, candied cherries, citron, orange-peel
or other candied fruits, which hav,e been chopped together.
Shape into a flat cake and cut after it stands for an hour.
WINTERGREEN CREAMS Melt a portion of fondant in the
upper part of a double boiler until it is soft enough to drop
from a spoon. It may be necessary to add a few drops of hot
water. Color it with red vegetable coloring to a delicate pink.
Flavor with oil of wintergreen. Stir until it is creamy. Drop
from a teaspoon on oiled paper.
PEPPERMINT CREAMS Follow instructions given for winter-
green creams, but leave the fondant uncolored and flavor with
oil of peppermint.
NUT CREAMS Knead fondant and flavor with almond or
coffee extract. Knead into it a mixture of chopped nuts or
508
V/>^N^
moist coconut. Shape into balls, squares or other shapes attrac-
tive for dipping into chocolate.
STUFFED DATES, AND PRUNES Stone dates or prunes and
stuff them with fondant which has been colored pink and
flavored with rose water. A whole nut-meat should be inserted
with the fondant.
CHOCOLATE BONBONS Melt very slowly a good quality of
specially prepared dipping chocolate, sweetened or unsweetened,
in the top of a double boiler. Do not heat the water under the
chocolate above 120 F., for overheating spoils chocolate for
dipping. Stir it constantly while it is melting to keep an even
temperature, and after it has melted, beat it thoroughly. Keep
the heat very low during the dipping process. To dip centers,
use a fork or confectioner's dipper. Drop centers in one at a
time and when covered place on oiled paper. The room in
which dipping is done should be cool, so that the chocolate may
harden quickly.
MARSHMALLOWS
2 tablespoons gelatin l / 8 teaspoon salt
l /4 cup cold water 1 teaspoon vanilla
% cup boiling water Confectioners' sugar
2 cups sugar
Soak the gelatin in the cold water until it has taken up all the
water. Boil the sugar and water to the soft-ball stage (238
F.). Add vanilla and salt to gelatin. Pour the sirup slowly
over the gelatin, beating constantly with a whisk until cool and
thick. Butter a shallow pan slightly and dust with confection-
ers' sugar. Turn the marshmallow mixture into the pan and
smooth the top evenly. Dust with confectioners' sugar. Let it
stand over night. In the morning cut it into small squares and
roll in confectioners' sugar.
VARIATIONS FOR MARSHMALLOWS
Chopped nuts, dates, figs, raisins or candied cherries may be
added to the recipe for marshmallows. Plain marshmallows
may be rolled in coconut before being rolled in sugar, or they
may be dipped in melted chocolate. Marshmallows may be
tinted any desired color.
CANDIES 509
VANIIXA- CARAMELS
2 cups sugar 4 tablespoons butter
l /2 cup corn sirup 1 cup cream or condensed
l /2 cup milk milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
Cook the ingredients, except the vanilla? to the stiff-ball
stage, or 246 F. Remove from the fire, add the vanilla and
pour into a buttered pan. When it is cold, turn it out of the
pan and cut it into squares.
CHOCOLATE Use the same ingredients as for vanilla cara-
mels but reduce the cream or condensed milk to one-half cup
and add three squares of chocolate. Break the chocolate in
small pieces, add to the other ingredients and proceed as for
vanilla caramels.
MOLASSES TAFFY
2 cups molasses 4 tablespoons butter or other
1 cup granulated sugar fat
% cup water l / 2 teaspoon vanilla
l /s teaspoon soda
Cook the molasses, sugar and water slowly to the hard-ball
stage (260 F.) stirring during the latter part of the cooking
to prevent its burning. Remove from the fire, add the fat,
soda and vanilla and stir enough to mix. Pour into a greased
pan and, when cool enough to handle, pull it until it becomes
light in color. Stretch it into a long rope and cut with scissors
into small pieces.
WHITE TAFFY
2 cups granulated sugar 2 l / 2 tablespoons vinegar
l / 2 cup water 1 teaspoon lemon or vanilla
1 teaspoon glycerin extract
Boil the sugar, water, glycerin and vinegar to the hard-ball
stage (260 F.). Add flavoring. Pour on to a greased platter.
When cool enough to handle, pull until very white, stretch into
a long rope, and cut into short pieces.
NOUGAT
2 cups sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla
l /$ cup corn sirup 1 1 /2 cups nut-meats
1 cup water l /2 cup candied cherries
4 egg-whites
Boil together half of the sugar, half of the water and half of
the corn sirup to the stiff-ball stage (246 -2 50 F.). Remove
the sirup from the fire and pour it slowly over the well-beaten
whites and continue beating until it is cool. While beating,
cook the remaining half of the ingredients to the stiff-ball stage.
Remove and add at once to the first mixture, beating while
adding. When cool, add the vanilla, nut-meats and candied
cherries and pour into buttered pans. Smooth over the surface
and let it stand over night before cutting. In the morning cut
and wrap in waxed paper.
BUTTERSCOTCH
1 cup granulated sugar % cup butter
1 cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla or lemon
l /4 cup light corn sirup extract
1 cup water
Put sugar, sirup and water into a saucepan and set over
direct heat. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then cook without
stirring to the stiff ball stage (250 F.). Add fat and cook to
the medium crack stage (280 F.), for soft butterscotch, or to
the hard crack stage (300 F.) for brittle candy. Remove from
fire, add the flavoring and pour on a greased slab. Mark while
still warm and when cold break into pieces.
MAPLE SCOTCH
1 cup maple sugar 1 teaspoon vinegar
l /2 cup water 4 tablespoons butter
Boil together the maple sugar, water and vinegar to the stiff-
ball stage (246 F.). Then add the butter and cook to the
medium-crack stage (280 F.). Turn into a well-buttered
pan. Mark while still warm, and when cold break into pieces.
CANDIES 5"
No. 1. POP-CORN BALLS
3 quarts popped corn 1 cup water
1 cup sugar % teaspoon salt
J/3 cup white corn sirup 1 teaspoon lemon or vanilla
Discard all imperfect kernels and put the popped corn into
a large pan. Cook sugar, sirup and water to the medium-crack
stage (280 F.). Add flavoring and salt. Pour over the
corn, stirring with a spoon so that all kernels will be evenly
coated. Shape the corn into balls, lay on waxed paper, and wrap
in waxed paper.
No. 2.
3 quarts popped corn % cup water
1 cup honey 2 tablespoons butter
1 cup sugar % teaspoon salt
Proceed as for No. 1.
MAPLE NUT BRITTLE
1 cup light-brown sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup! maple sugar 1 cup broken nut-meats
l /2 cup water 2 tablespoons butter
l /4 teaspoon salt
Boil the sugar and water to the stiff-ball stage (246 F.).
Then add the fat and cook to the brittle stage (290 -3 00 F.).
Add the vanilla and salt and. pour over the nut-meats, which
have been placed on a buttered pan. When cold, break into
pieces.
PEANUT BRITTLE
2 cups granulated sugar 1 teaspoon salt
1 pint chopped peanuts
Put the sugar into an iron frying-pan and heat slowly, stirring
constantly, until the sugar is melted and turns a light brown
color (slightly above 300 F.). Spread the chopped peanuts
in a buttered tin, sprinkle them with the salt, warm the tin
slightly and pour the melted sugar over the peanuts.
TURKISH DELIGHT
3 tablespoons gelatin l / 2 cup hot water
2 cups sugar Grated rind and juice of
l / 2 cup cold water 1 lemon
Grated rind and juice of Red or green coloring
1 orange
Soak the gelatin in the cold water. Put the sugar and hot
water in a saucepan. When it reaches the boiling-point, add
the gelatin and simmer twenty minutes. Add color and the
flavorings; strain into a bread-pan which has been rinsed with
cold water. The mixture should be from one-half to one inch
in depth.
When it is cold, turn it on to a board. Cut into cubes or
other shapes and roll in confectioners' sugar.
If you prefer other flavors, such as peppermint, wintergreen
and clove, omit the fruit juice and rind, add one-half cup of
water, and flavor with a few drops of oil of peppermint, oil
of wintergreen, oil of cloves, etc.
COCONUT CONES
2 cups sugar 3 egg-whites
% cup water 2 cups moist coconut
l /2 teaspoon vanilla
Boil the sugar and water together to the soft-ball stage (238
F.). Add the vanilla and pour it slowly over the stiffly beaten
whites of the eggs beating constantly until light and foamy.
Stir in the coconut and drop on buttered tins by teaspoonfuls.
Shape each confection like a cone. Bake in a slow oven (300
F.) for about twenty minutes.
MARZIPAN
2 egg-whites 1 cup confectioners' sugar,
1 cup almond paste more or less
l /2 teaspoon lemon or vanilla
Beat the egg-whites and mix with the almond paste. Add
the flavoring and enough sugar to make the mixture stiff enough
to handle. After it has stood over night, it may be molded into
small shapes of fruits or vegetables such as pears, apples or car-
rots and colored with vegetable colors, or it may be cut into
CANDIES 513
small pieces and dipped in chocolate or other coating, or used
as the center for candied cherries, dates, prunes, etc.
The almond paste may be bought at a confectioner's, or the
almonds may be blanched and pounded. Two and two-thirds
cups shelled almonds make one cup of paste.
STUFFED SPICED PRUNES
l / 2 pound prunes Ys teaspoon grated nutmeg
l /2 cup sugar */2 teaspoon cinnamon
l / 8 cup corn sirup 5 allspice berries
% cup water % teaspoon maple flavoring
3 to 6 cloves Chopped nut-meats
Soak the prunes over night, after washing them thoroughly.
Drain off the water; add the sugar, sirup, water and spices and
simmer slowly until the sirup is all absorbed by the prunes.
Cut a slit along one side of each prune, slip out the stone and
fill the cavities with chopped nut-meats moistened with a little
sirup or with cream. Roll in confectioners' sugar.
TUTTI-FRUTTI CANDY
1 pound raisins 1 pound figs
3 /4 pound walnut-meats l /z pound prunes
1 pound dates Confectioners' sugar
Soak the prunes over night. Steam until they are soft and
remove stones. Wash the figs, and steam them twenty min-
utes. Wash the dates and remove the stones. Put the fruit
and nuts through a food-chopper. Put confectioners' sugar on
the board and with the hands work the fruit and nuts until
well blended. Roll to about one-quarter inch thick, using the
sugar to dredge the board and rolling-pin. Cut in any desired
shape, roll in sugar, pack in layers in a tin box, using waxed
paper between the layers.
HOLIDAY COCONUT BALLS
l /$ cup corn sirup % cup currants
l /4 teaspoon maple l /z cup raisins
flavoring 1 cup moist coconut
Stir the ingredients together to make a stiff loaf. Pack in a
small cake-tin. Chill in the refrigerator and roll into small
balls. Dust with confectioners' sugar.
SALTED ALMONDS OR PEANUTS
Blanch the almonds or remove the thin brown skin from the
peanuts. Dry the almonds well. Put a small amount of oil
into a dripping pan, pour in the nuts and stir them until they
are well coated. There should be no excess oil in the pan; just
enough to give an oily surface to each nut. Set the pan in the
oven, and stir the nuts often until they become light brown.
Drain them in a colander, spread on a platter and sprinkle with
salt.
To BLANCH ALMONDS Shell the nuts and pour boiling
water over them. Let them stand from two to five minutes,
until the brown skin can be slipped off with the fingers. Pour
off the water and remove the skins.
GLACE FRUITS OR NUTS
2 cups sugar Small fruits or sections of
1 cup water larger fruits or whole nut-
% cup light corn sirup meats
Make a sirup of the sugar, water and corn sirup. Boil, with-
out stirring, to the hard crack stage (300 F.). Remove the
saucepan from the fire and put it into an outer pan of boiling
water to keep the sirup from hardening. Drop in the well
drained fruit or the nut-meats, a few at a time. Skim out and
place on heavy waxed paper to dry.
CANDIED FRUITS
SIRUP FOR CANDIED FRUITS
2 cups sugar % cup light corn sirup
1 cup water
Boil together until the sirup spins a thread when dropped
from the spoon (234 F.).
CANDIED PEARS, PEACHES, PLUMS, AND CHERRIES Pare,
core, slice or otherwise prepare the fruits to be candied. Have
them drained clear of all juice and add them to the boiling
sirup, being careful not to have them crowded. Simmer until
the fruits are clear. Skim from the sirup, drain, spread on a
CANDIES 5*5
screen and allow them to dry until they are no longer sticky.
Pack between sheets of waxed paper and place in a tin box or
a glass jar.
CANDIED QUINCES, PINEAPPLES AND FIGS Prepare fruits by
washing, paring or slicing as desired, then simmer in clear water
until tender. Drain and use the water in which the fruits
were cooked to make the sirup. Proceed as in the preceding
recipe.
CANDIED ORANGE, LEMON OR GRAPEFRUIT PEEL Cut the
peel into halves or quarters. Let them stand over night in salted
water (one tablespoon salt to one quart water). Drain and
wash thoroughly. Simmer in clear water, changing the water
several times until it has no bitter taste. When the peel is
tender, drain, cut into strips or add whole to the sirup and sim-
mer until it is transparent. Drain, roll in granulated sugar, and
allow the peel to dry well before packing.
FRUIT PASTE CANDIES
FRUIT PASTE Paste may be made from most kinds of fruit-
pulp after the juice has been drained off for jelly, or it may be
made from fresh or canned fruit. A combination of the pulp
of two or more kinds of fruit gives a delicious result.
Press the pulp through a rather fine strainer, measure it and
to one pint of pulp add one and one-third cups of sugar. Cook
this mixture, stirring it and taking care not to let it scorch.
When the paste is thick and clear, turn it out on a platter which
has been brushed with unsalted fat. Let it stand and dry until
a film forms over the top. Then turn it on to a wire screen
and dry until it loses its stickiness. To get the best results, dry
it as quickly as possible in the open air. Roll the dried paste in
thick paraffin paper and pack it in tin boxes or glass jars for
future use. For finish, dip in fondant or chocolate,
SPUN SUGAR
2 cups sugar 1 cup water
y$ teaspoon cream of tartar
Dissolve sugar in water, bring slowly to boiling point and
5i6
^\^\yx
boil to 280 F. Add cream of tartar and continue boiling with-
out stirring until the sirup reaches 310 F. In the mean-
time, have prepared 2 oiled wooden spoon handles securely
anchored in kitchen-cabinet drawers, with a clean paper spread
on the floor below. When the sirup reaches 310 F. remove
quickly to a pan of cold water to stop the boiling, then to pan
of hot water. Tint with food colors if desired. Dip the spinner
(a spoon, large knife or egg whip will serve) into the sirup and
swing back and forth over the handles. The sugar falls in
long threads. If the sirup thickens as you work, heat the water
in the lower pan until the sirup melts and continue spinning.
Use at once as decorative nests for ice cream, meringue glace,
Baked Alaska or Easter eggs,
PULLED SUGAR
2 pounds loaf sugar 1 teaspoon glucose
1 cup water y 4 teaspoon cream of tartar
Add water to sugar in a saucepan and when completely dis-
solved turn on heat, add glucose and cream of tartar and boil
as quickly as possible to 312 F. Remove at once to pan of
cold water to stop boiling, then pour sirup onto a lightly oiled
slab. If different colors or flavors are wanted, divide the sirup
as desired. As edges cool, lift with knife and turn in to the
center. When sugar is cool enough to handle, pull from sides,
turning in to the center, and roll into a ball. Work in a warm
place so sugar does not cool too quickly as you work and be
sure that all parts are pulled equally. When it becomes quite
satin-white and china-like in appearance, start your design.
Ribbons are made by pulling a straight piece, cutting the edges
quickly and then arranging in knots or bows. Set aside to cool
slowly so they will not crack.
For flowers and leaves, pull a small end into petal shape, pinch
off the end, work the edges thin and curve into desired shape.
Put the petals together as you work to form the flower, then
pinch the lower ends together and attach to a new tin wire, or
attach to a green pulled-sugar stem. Detached leaves may be
mounted on wire and left uncovered.
FRUIT DESSERTS
Fresh Fruits
"PRESH fruits are the simplest and easiest of all desserts to pre-
*- pare, and furnish one of the most wholesome sweets. They
are at their best when served ripe and in season. When fruit
comes from the market it should be looked over and kept in a
cool place. All fruit should be washed before it is served.
FRESH BERRIES
Turn the berries out of the container and spread them on a
platter or board so that they are not piled up on one another.
If there are any noticeably soft or moldy, remove them and
set the rest in the refrigerator or other cool place until they
are to be prepared for serving. Then pick them over carefully,
wash and drain. Strawberries are usually hulled, but when
very large and perfect they may be served with the hulls on and
dipped into powdered sugar when they are eaten.
MELONS
All melons should be served very cold. They may be laid
on chopped ice when served but the ice should never be placed
in or on the edible parts of the melon.
CANTALOUP Cut the cantaloup in half and with a spoon
remove the seeds without injuring the flesh. Each half may be
served alone or it may be filled with fresh berries or other fruit
or with ice-cream. When used as an appetizer at the beginning
of a meal, a quarter of a large cantaloup is enough. Chilled
melon balls are often served.
HONEYDEW AND CASABA MELONS These are usually cut
lengthwise and served in sections two or three inches wide.
WATERMELON To serve a whole watermelon at the table,
cut it in half, crosswise, and cut a slice from each end to make
it stand on a platter. Garnish the platter with green leaves.
The melon may be served in round slices, or in half or quarter
slices from which the rind may or may not hav.e been removed;
the pulp may be shaped in balls or dice and served in glasses^
517
or it may be scooped out in large spoonfuls and served in a
watermelon tub shaped from the rind.
For other suggestions for serving melons, see Index.
GRAPEFRUIT
See Index.
ORANGES
Cut oranges in half crosswise. With a sharp knife, loosen
the pulp from the center and from the dividing fiber. Serve
two halves to each person.
An attractive dessert is made by cutting oranges crosswise in
quarter-inch slices and laying the slices in an overlapping row
on a glass plate, allowing about four slices to each person. The
slices may be sprinkled with sugar and moist coconut or served
plain.
ICED ORANGE JUICE
Fill small glass cups with strained orange- juice and set each
in the center of a plate filled with cracked ice. This makes a
delicious and beautiful fruit course for breakfast.
STUFFED PEACHES
Pare large peaches and cut a slice from the top of each. Re-
move the pits without breaking the fruit and fill the hollow
with nuts or with any chopped fruit, such as apples, citron or
raisins. Sprinkle with sugar and a little cinnamon or nutmeg.
Pour custard over the peaches and bake. Or serve cold soft
custard with the uncooked chilled fruit.
SLICED BANANAS
Chill and slice well ripened bananas, serve with cream or
lemon-juice and sugar.
No. 1. FRESH FRUIT CUP
l /2 pineapple 3 oranges
1 cup strawberries 2 tablespoons lemon-juice
3 well ripened bananas Sugar
Peel and dice the pineapple, bananas and oranges. Wash and
hull the strawberries. Mix all together, with the lemon-juice
and sugar, and set in the refrigerator until very cold.
FRUIT DESSERTS 519
No. 2 Peel and slice oranges and arrange in a glass dish al-
ternate layers of oranges and sugar until all the fruit is used.
Whip some sweet cream very stiff, sweeten and flavor it and
spread it over the oranges. Serve very cold.
Crushed pineapple and sliced bananas may be added, if de-
sired.
No. 3.
3 oranges 3 well ripened bananas
1 cup diced pineapple 1 cup moist coconut
With a sharp knife cut the orange and pineapple into thick
slices, then cut them into bits free from seeds and membrane.
Slice the bananas thin. Arrange alternate layers of the different
fruits in a deep dish and sprinkle each layer with sugar and
coconut. Over the whole pour any fruit- juice. Serve very
cold.
MACEDOINE OF FRUIT
3 peaches l /z cup diced watermelon
3 pears 1 cup raspberries
l /2 cup diced pineapple l /$ cup sugar
Pare and slice peaches and pears, cut pineapple and melon in
small pieces, mix fruit and sugar, and chill for one hour. Serve
in glasses, adding one tablespoon whipped cream to each glass
just before serving. A berry or piece of pineapple placed on
the cream gives color to the dish.
VERMONT QUARTERED APPLES
6 firm, tart apples 3 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons shaved maple 1 cup boiling water
sugar
Pare, quarter and core the apples, and place on an earthen-
ware pie-plate. Mix the maple sugar, butter and boiling water
and boil for five minutes. Pour this sauce over the apples, place
in a moderate oven (350-375 F.) and bake until the apples
are soft. Baste occasionally with the hot sirup. This makes a
delicious dessert served with cream. It may also be served in
the baking-dish with duck or goose.
520
APPLE SAUCE
No. 1: Wash,- pare, quarter and core sour, juicy apples.
Place them in a porcelain kettle with just enough water to keep
them from burning and boil until tender. Add sugar to taste
and boil a few minutes longer. Serve hot or cold.
A few whole cloves or a dash of cinnamon or nutmeg or a
little lemon- juice or a few seedless raisins may be cooked with
the apples. Brown or maple sugar may be used instead of
white.
No. 2 Prepare as for No. 1 but place in a baking dish with
fust enough water to start them cooking. Sprinkle with sugar.
Cover and bake in a moderate oven (350-375 F.) until the
apples are soft but not broken. Add more sugar and a little
boiling water if necessary, and cook, uncovered, until the top
is slightly browned.
No. 3 Wash, quarter and core but do not pare apples. Cut
out any bad spots. Stew until tender with just enough water
to keep them from sticking to the pan. Rub through a colander
or coarse strainer, add sugar to taste, and stir until the sugar
is dissolved.
APPLE OR OTHER FRUIT SNOW
% cup sour apple pulp Lemon-juice
Sugar 3 egg-whites
Pare, quarter and steam enough apples to make the required
amount of apple pulp. Press through a sieve. Add sugar and
lemon-juice to taste and fold into stiffly beaten whites very
gradually. Pile on a glass dish, chill and serve with custard
sauce or cream.
Other fruits may be used in the same way. Uncooked fruit
pulp may be used by grating fresh fruit and covering it at once
with lemon-juice to prevent discoloration.
BLUSHING APPLES
6 red apples l l / 2 cups water
1/4 cups sugar Juice of 1 lemon
Juice and grated rind of Whipped cream
1 orange
Wash and core the apples. Cook until they are tender in
sirup made of the sugar and water, turning so that they will
FRUIT DESSERTS 5 21
cook evenly. Carefully remove the skin, scraping the red pulp
from it and pasting it back on the sides of the apple. Put the
apples in a serving dish. Boil the sirup down to one cup and
add the grated rind and the juice of one orange, the juice of
one lemon, and, if desired, nuts, candied orange peel or raisins.
Pour sirup over the apples and serve with whipped cream.
JELLIED APPLES
Pare and core the required number of apples and bake, steam
or boil in sirup until tender. Cool. Cover the bottoms of indi-
vidual molds with lemon jelly, put in apples and cover with
jelly. Unmold and serve with meringue or whipped cream.
BAKED APPLES
Select sound apples; core them and place from one teaspoon
to one tablespoon of sugar in each cavity. Place the apples in
a baking-dish, add water to cover the bottom of the dish, and
bake in a moderate oven (350-375 F.) until tender.
Sour apples cook more quickly than sweet ones, and summer
or fall apples take less time to cook than winter apples.
Baked apples may be varied by filling the centers with brown
sugar and raisins, sections of bananas, red cinnamon candies,
marshmallow, marmalade or jelly, honey or corn sirup and
lemon-juice, nuts, candied orange-peel, candied pineapple, pre-
served ginger, canned or fresh berries, peaches and other fruits
or left-over fruit-juice. Meringues, custard sauce, whipped
cream or marshmallow sauce may be used as garnish.
BAKED STUFFED APPLES
6 large tart red apples 1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 cup chopped bananas Chopped nut-meats
1 cup chopped cranberries Whipped cream
1 cup sugar
Cut off the stem end of the apples, but do not peel them.
Remove all the core and part of the pulp, leaving the walls of
the cup about three-fourths inch thick. Mix bananas, cran-
berries, sugar, and cinnamon. Fill the cavities in the apples
with this mixture, cover with chopped nut-meats, and bake in
the oven (350-375 F.) until tender. Serve cold with a spoon-
ful of whipped cream on top of each apple.
5 22
STEAMED APPLES
Core the apples, fill cavities with sugar and put in a saucepan
with hot water about an inch deep. Cover and cook slowly,
turning the apples over once. This will steam the apples and,
if they are red, will preserve their color. These resemble baked
apples and the same variations may be used.
BAKED STUFFED PEARS
Pare and core large pears and stuff with seeded dates, raisins
or chopped nuts with some tart marmalade or shredded coconut.
Place close together in a baking-dish, cover bottom of pan
with water and bake slowly until tender.
MERINGUED PEARS
6 large pears Candied ginger
6 tablespoons sugar 3 egg-whites
Grated lemon-rind % cup powdered sugar
Pare and core the pears, place them in a baking-dish and fill
the center of each with one tablespoon sugar and a little grated
lemon-rind or candied ginger. Add three or four tablespoons
of water and bake until tender. Cover them with a meringue
made with the stiffly beaten egg-whites and the sugar. Brown
quickly.
STEWED RHUBARB
Wash, but do not peel, the rhubarb and cut it in one-inch
pieces. Add one-half as much sugar as rhubarb, put in a sauce-
pan with just enough water to keep the fruit from burning.
Very little water is needed, as rhubarb provides its own moist-
ure. Cook rapidly until tender.
BAKED RHUBARB
Prepare as for stewing, using same proportion of sugar and
rhubarb, and bake in a moderate oven (350-375 F.). Bake
until the rhubarb is reduced to a soft, red pulp.
Dried Fruits
If prepared carefully, most dried fruits retain their flavor.
Except for some of the vitamins, none of the food values of
FRUIT DESSERTS
5 2 3
the product are lost in drying, for this method of preservation
only drives off the moisture of perishable foods through evapora-
tion. The modern method of drying fruit makes it unnecessary
to soak the present day product. Dried fruits are edible as they
come from the package, or may be plumped slightly by immers-
ing in hot water.
Quick cooking without soaking saves the sugar of the fruit,
allows a firmer texture and improves the flavor. Rinse the
fruit, cover generously with water and boil briskly until very
tender. Apples and apricots require 40 minutes, figs 20-30,
peaches 50, pears 40, prunes 45-50 and raisins 10. Add sugar
to taste during the last 5 minutes of cooking to all fruit except
figs which must be cooked with sugar for at least 15 minutes.
Stick cinnamon, cloves or lemon juice may be added for flavor
variety.
There are endless ways in which dried fruit may be used for
garnishes, salads, cakes, cookies, breads and desserts.
APRICOT OR PRUNE WHIP
1 J/2 cups sweetened apricot l /s teaspoon salt
or prune pulp % cup sugar
1 l /z tablespoons lemon juice 3 egg whites, stiffly beaten
Mix pulp, lemon juice and salt together. Beat sugar into egg
whites, fold in fruit mixture and serve garnished with chopped
nuts. If desired this mixture may be piled lightly into a buttered
baking dish and baked in a slow oven (275 F.) 30 to 45
minutes.
STEAMED FIGS
1 8 pulled figs 3 teaspoons confectioners'
2 tablespoons water sugar
1 orange 3 / 4 cup cream
Wash the figs and cut out the stem end. Soak several hours,
or overnight. Cook in a double boiler slowly until tender.
Arrange the hot figs in individual dessert dishes around a central
small mound of orange portions which have been skinned and
sprinkled with sugar. Border with sweetened whipped cream
slightly flavored with orange juice.
524
KNICKERBOCKER FIGS
Y 2 pound figs l / 4 cup orange-juice
Maraschino cherries 3 tablespoons sugar
Pecan meats 2 teaspoons lemon- juice
Stuff the figs with cherries and broken nut-meats, allowing
two cherries and five nut-meats to each fig. Mix the orange-
juice, sugar, and lemon -juice, add the figs, cover and simmer
until the figs are tender. Drain, cool and serve in individual
paper cases.
RHUBARB SCALLOP WITH MERINGUE
1/2 pound rhubarb l/^. teaspoon salt
1 cup granulated sugar 1 small sponge cake
Grated rind of 1 orange 2 egg whites
2 tablespoons powdered sugar
"Wash and peel rhubarb and cut in 1-inch pieces; add sugar,
orange rind and salt, mixing well. Cut sponge cake in thin
slices; line bottom of greased baking dish with 3 or 4 slices;
cover with l / 4 of rhubarb. Continue to make alternate layers of
cake and fruit until material is used. Cover and bake in mod-
erate oven (350 F.) for 30 minutes. Beat egg whites until
stiff; add sugar slowly, beating until blended. Pile on baked
pudding and bake 1 5 minutes longer, or until meringue is
slightly browned.
SOUTHERN FRIED APPLES
Core but do not peel, medium-sized Jonathan or Spitzenberg
apples. Slice l /z inch thick to make perfect rings. Heat l /$ cup
butter in thick-walled skillet aluminum, chrome or steel
until light brown. Fit in the apple slices to cover bottom with-
out breaking. Mix % cup sugar with 1 tablespoon ground
cinnamon and dash of salt. Cover apples with. l /z the mixture.
After 5 minutes turn the slices with pancake turner to avoid
breaking. Cover with remaining sugar mixture. Fry over low
flame until almost transparent. If too well done, they break
easily. Serve hot.
CUSTARDS, GELATIN AND
CREAM DESSERTS
MOST desserts made with eggs, cream and gelatin, or with
any one or two of these ingredients, are best served very
cold. The mechanical refrigerator is excellent for chilling such
desserts.
Custards
A custard is a mixture of cooked egg and milk, flavored.
Starchy material is sometimes used to replace part of the eggs.
Custards are classified according to the method used in cooking
them; those cooked over hot water and stirred throughout the
cooking process are known as soft or stirred custards erro-
neously, as boiled custards; those set in hot water and cooked in
the oven (oven-poaching) are firm or baked custards.
The firmness of a custard depends on the proportion of eggs
to milk. (See "Useful Facts about Eggs.") The finest-grained
custards are those in which the yolks predominate.
If fresh milk is not available, an unsweetened canned milk or
milk powder may be used with excellent results.
No. 1. PLAIN SOFT CUSTARD
2 cups milk l /s teaspoon salt
2 whole eggs or 4 tablespoons sugar
4 egg-yolks l /z teaspoon vanilla
Scald the milk in the top of the double boiler. Beat together
slightly the eggs, sugar and salt. Add the hot milk to the
egg mixture, mix thoroughly and return to the top of the
double boiler. Cook over hot water, stirring constantly until
the egg coats the spoon.
No. 2 If eggs are expensive? modify the recipe for soft
custard by substituting one teaspoon of corn-starch for one
egg-yolk or two teaspoons for two egg-yolks or one whole
egg. Make the milk and starch into a sauce and cook over hot
water twenty to thirty minutes before adding any eggs.
525
526
VARIATIONS OF PLAIN SOFT CUSTARD
COFFEE Use recipe for soft custard, substituting one cup
of very strong coffee for one of the cups of milk.
CARAMEL Caramelize one-fourth cup sugar and add to one
cup scalded milk.
Follow recipe for soft custard, using this milk with caramel
as part of the milk, and using in addition the full amount of
sugar called for in the recipe.
CHOCOLATE Melt one ounce of chocolate and add to it
two tablespoons of sugar dissolved in two tablespoons of boil-
ing water. Mix thoroughly. Add this chocolate mixture to
two cups of scalded milk and use as the milk in a plain soft
custard.
WAYS OF SERVING SOFT CUSTARD
Soft custard may be served in sherbet cups, frappe glasses
or deep sauce dishes, garnished with whipped cream and pieces
of tart jelly.
It may be poured over fresh fruit.
It may be poured over lady fingers or sponge cake and may
then be garnished with meringue or whipped cream.
It may be served as a sauce for most gelatin dishes.
It is an excellent foundation for ice-creams.
FLOATING ISLAND
2 cups milk 6 to 8 tablespoons sugar
3 eggs l /2 teaspoon vanilla
l /s teaspoon salt
Follow directions for soft custard, using two egg-yolks and
one whole egg. Cool and turn the custard into a glass dish or
into custard cups. Beat the two egg-whites until stiff and beat
into them two to four tablespoons of fine granulated or pow-
dered sugar. Drop this meringue by spoonfuls on the custard
and chill thoroughly. A candied cherry or a small bit of red
jelly placed on each spoonful of meringue adds to the attractive
appearance of the dish.
CUSTARDS, GELATIN, ETC. 527
CARAMEL PUDDING
1 cup brown sugar *4 cup flour
2 cups milk 2 eggs
Mix sugar and one and one-half cups of milk. Scald in double
boiler until sugar is dissolved. Mix flour with beaten egg-yolks
and the remaining half cup of milk and add to the hot milk,
stirring constantly until it thickens. Remove from fire and fold
in stiffly beaten egg-whites. Chill and serve with whipped
cream.
ORANGE FOOL
6 oranges Sugar
3 eggs Nutmeg
2 cups cream Cinnamon
Squeeze and strain the juice from the oranges. Beat the eggs
and add to them the cream and the orange-juice. Sweeten to
taste. Add a sprinkle of grated nutmeg and powdered cinna-
mon, and cook in a double boiler, stirring constantly until the
mixture coats the spoon. Pour into glass dishes and chill
thoroughly before serving.
PLAIN BAKED CUSTARD
2 cups scalded milk % teaspoon salt
3 eggs l /2 teaspoon vanilla
4 tablespoons sugar
Scald the milk. Mix sugar, eggs, salt and flavoring and com-
bine with scalded milk. Pour into custard cups or baking-dish
set in pan of hot water and poach in a slow oven (300 F.)
until firm. A knife blade run into the center of the custard
will come out clean.
VARIATIONS OF BAKED CUSTARD
CARAMEL.
No. 1 Caramelize one-fourth cup of sugar and add to two
cups of scalded milk. Use as the liquid in a plain baked custard.
No. 2 Caramelize one-half cup of sugar. Pour into a mold
or pour a little into each of six custard cups. Before it hardens,
move the mold about so that the caramel will coat the sides.
When the caramel is hard, fill the molds with plain baked
528
*>^\_/X/ >
custard mixture and bake as directed for baked custard. These
custards are unmolded and served either hot or cold. The cara-
mel melts during the cooking process and when the custard is
turned into a dish forms a sauce around it.
COCOA Substitute cocoa, made as for drinking, for scalded
milk in baked custard recipe.
CHOCOLATE Melt one and one-half ounces of chocolate and
add to milk. Use in a plain baked custard.
COFFEE Substitute one cup of strong coffee for one cup of
milk in baked custard recipe.
Gelatin and Cream Desserts
ONE QUART STANDARD GELATIN JELLY
1 ounce (2 tablespoons) l / 4 cup to 1 cup sugar (lemon-
granulated gelatin juice requires more sugar
l /2 cup cold water than orange- juice, and
l /2 cup boiling water orange-juice more than cof-
3 cups other liquid or fruit- fee or cream)
juice
Soak gelatin in cold water until soft. Add to boiling water
and stir over hot water until thoroughly dissolved. The object
of heating only part of the water is to hasten the cooling and
solidifying of the gelatin mixture. Add sugar and stir until
dissolved. Remove from heat. Add remaining liquids or fruit
pulp and mix thoroughly. Pour into molds that have been
dipped into cold water.
STANDARD FORMULA FOR WHIPS
Use recipe for standard gelatin jelly but leave the mixture in
the bowl in which it was mixed until it begins to congeal. Then
whip until it becomes light and frothy. Fold in 1 1 / 2 cups fruit
pulp, as prune or apricot. Turn into molds and chill.
STANDARD FORMULA FOR SPONGES
Use recipe for standard gelatin jelly with these exceptions:
use three-eighths cup instead of one-half cup cold liquid; whip
the congealing jelly and add beaten whites of two eggs after
jelly begins to congeal.
ANY FRUIT SPONGE may be made into a delicious semi-
CUSTARDS, GELATIN, ETC. 529
frozen dessert by substituting cream for egg-white and chilling
two to three hours. Three tablespoons cream should be sub-
stituted for each egg-white in the recipe, the other quantities
remaining the same. Whip the cream and fold in, following
directions given for egg-white.
STANDARD FORMULA FOR CHARLOTTE OR
BAVARIAN CREAM
Use recipe for standard gelatin jelly with these exceptions:
Use one-quarter cup instead of one-half cup cold liquid and
add one-quarter cup cream, which should be beaten and folded
in after the mixture begins to congeal. Part cream and part
whipped egg-white may be used if you prefer.
LEMON JELLY
1 ounce (2 tablespoons) 2 l / 4 cups ice- water
granulated gelatin 1 cup sugar
l /2 cup cold water % cup lemon-juice
l /2 cup boiling water A little lemon-rind
Combine as directed for standard gelatin jelly. Serve with
cream or soft custard.
SNOW PUDDING OR LEMON WHIP
When lemon jelly begins to congeal, beat it thoroughly with
an egg-beater. Mold. When cold and jellied, serve with soft
custard.
LEMON SPONGE
Reduce the ice-water in lemon jelly to two cups. When
the jelly begins to congeal, whip until light and frothy and fold
in the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. Serve with cream or
soft custard.
ORANGE JELLY
1 ounce (2 tablespoons) 1 cup ice- water
granulated gelatin l l / 2 cups orange-juice
l /2 cup cold water 3 to 4 tablespoons lemon-juice
l /2 cup boiling water A little grated orange-rind
1 cup sugar (may be omitted)
Combine as directed for standard gelatin jelly.
530
ORANGE WHIP
When orange jelly begins to congeal, whip until light and
frothy. Mold.
ORANGE SPONGE
Reduce the ice-water in orange jelly to one-half cup. When
the jelly begins to congeal, whip until light and fold in the
stiffly beaten whites of two eggs.
ORANGE CHARLOTTE OR BAVARIAN CREAM
Omit the ice-water in orange jelly. When the jelly begins
to congeal, fold in one cup of whipping cream beaten to a stiff
froth. The jelly may be whipped before adding the cream, if
desired. It makes a more delicate product.
FRUIT JELLIES, WHIPS, SPONGES, CHARLOTTES
OR BAVARIAN CREAMS
Use recipe for orange jelly, orange sponge, or orange charlotte
or Bavarian cream, substituting one and one-half cups of any
other fruit pulp or juice for one and one-half cups of orange-
juice. If stewed sweetened fruit pulp is used, reduce the amount
of sugar proportionately. Fresh raspberries, strawberries and
peaches make particularly good sponges and Bavarian creams.
COFFEE JELLY
1 ounce (2 tablespoons) l /2 cup boiling water
granulated gelatin 1 cup sugar
l /z cup cold water 3 cups strong coffee
Combine as directed for standard gelatin jelly. Particularly
good served with whipped cream.
FIG AND GINGER PUDDING
l /2 pound crystallized ginger l / 2 ounce (1 tablespoon)
l l /z pounds figs granulated gelatin
2 cups sugar l / 2 cup cold water
5 cups water Whipped cream
l /2 teaspoon powdered ginger
Cut the crystallized ginger and figs into tiny pieces. Dissolve
the granulated sugar in the water, and add the powdered ginger,
CUSTARDS, GELATIN, ETC. 531
the crystallized ginger and the figs. Place all in a double boiler
and simmer slowly all day. The entire mass must form a soft
pulp so that the ingredients will scarcely be recognized. Soften
the gelatin in the cold water and stir into the mixture while
hot. Turn into high-stemmed glasses and serve ice cold with
whipped cream.
GRAPEFRUIT A LA ST. PATRICK
1 ounce (2 tablespoons) % cup sugar
granulated gelatin 1 cup ice- water
1/2 cup cold water 2 cups grapefruit pulp and
l /2 cup boiling water juice
Fresh mint Maraschino cherries
Cut the grapefruit in half, crosswise, and scoop out the pulp
being careful not to cut the skins. Drop the shells into cold
water until needed. Simmer a few sprigs of fresh mint in the
boiling water until the flavor is extracted. Follow the standard
directions for making jelly. When jelly is firm, cut it into
cubes, pile the cubes in the grapefruit shells and garnish with
sprigs of mint and cherries.
MOLDED LIME FRUIT SALAD
1 package lime gelatin 1/2 cup canned white cherries
1 cup boiling water % CU P re ^ seeded grapes, cut
1 cup cold water in fancy shapes
4 slices canned pineapple 4 halved pears
Dissolve gelatin in boiling water and add cold water. Set
aside to cool slightly. Add fruit and pour into mold which has
been rinsed out with cold water. Refrigerate to set.
GARNISH Mix cream cheese with chopped nuts and rais-
ins; stuff pears, place in individual gelatin molds, fill with lime
gelatin and allow to congeal. Use as garnish around lime mold,
topped with pimiento cream cheese flower. Place decorated pine-
apple slices between pears. Serve with creamy eggless mayon-
naise. See page 450.
Decorating Jelly
Have the mold thoroughly chilled. Pour in a layer of jelly
about one-half inch deep. Chill. When firm, arrange a design
of fruit or nuts or both, dropping a few drops of jelly on each
532
^-^-^^-^N.
piece to hold the design while the jelly hardens. When the jelly
holding the design in place has congealed, add enough jelly to
cover the design and let this harden. A single design may serve
or alternate layers of fruit and jelly may be arranged in this
way. Each layer must congeal before the next is added.
REFRIGERATOR CHEESE CAKE
y 2 cup melted butter 3 eggs, separated
% cup sugar 2 cups cream cheese
2 cups fine 2wieback 3 tablespoons lemon juice
crumbs 1 tablespoon grated
2 teaspoons cinnamon lemon rind
2 tablespoons gelatin y 4 teaspoon salt
1 cup cold water 1/2 cup whipping cream
Blend butter, 54 CU P sugar, crumbs and cinnamon. Press %
of this mixture on the bottom of a 9 -inch spring form pan.
Soak gelatin in l /z cup cold water for 5 minutes. Cook egg-
yolks, remaining sugar (5/2 cup) and water (5/2 cup) in a
double boiler, stirring constantly, until mixture coats a metal
spoon. Add gelatin and stir until dissolved. Add gradually to
cream cheese, add lemon juice, rind and salt, beat thoroughly.
Cool, when beginning to congeal, beat several minutes with
an egg beater. Whip cream and fold in with stiffly beaten egg-
whites, blend thoroughly. Pour onto crumbs. Sprinkle remain-
ing crumbs over top. Chill until firm. Serves 10 to 12.
For variety use crumbs made from graham crackers, vanilla
wafers, gingersnaps, chocolate cookies, browned dried bread
crumbs, crushed cornflakes or other suitably prepared breakfast
foods in place of zwieback.
GELATIN BLANC MANGE
1 pint milk 1 teaspoon vanilla
y 4 cup sugar 1 tablespoon water
iy 2 teaspoons granulated
gelatin
Heat the milk in the top of a double boiler. Add the gelatin
softened in the cold water. Stir constantly, adding the sugar
a little at a time. Cook over hot water for fifteen minutes
CUSTARDS, GELATIN, ETC. 533
stirring frequently. Strain into molds that have been dipped
in cold water and chill. Serve with cream.
CHOCOLATE Dissolve one square bitter chocolate, add the
milk and sugar, using one -third cup sugar, before adding the
gelatin.
CHOCOLATE CREAM
6 tablespoons cocoa l /z teaspoon salt
l /$ cup sugar 1 pint cream
3 tablespoons water 1 egg
Mix cocoa, sugar and water, and cook over the fire, stirring
until thick and smooth. Cool slightly and pour over stiffly
whipped cream, and beat thoroughly with a spoon. Add egg
and again beat well. Chill in refrigerator, allowing an hour
and a half or two hours for a mechanical refrigerator and longer
for an ice-cooled refrigerator.
No . 1. VELVET CREAM
l /2 ounce (1 tablespoon) 4 tablespoons powdered
granulated gelatin sugar
l /4 cup cold water 1 pint cream
% cup boiling water 1 teaspoon vanilla
Follow standard directions for making the jelly. As soon as
it begins to congeal, add the cream. Flavor with vanilla. Turn
into a mold and place on ice to harden. Serve with maple
sauce.
No. 2 Use same ingredients as for preceding recipe. Whip
the cream and fold into it the dissolved gelatin and sugar mix-
ture. Mold.
SPANISH CREAM
1 ounce (2 tablespoons) % teaspoon salt
granulated gelatin 2 eggs
l /2 cup cold water 2% cups cold milk
l /2 cup hot milk 1 teaspoon vanilla
J/3 cup sugar
Make a custard of the egg-yolks, sugar and hot milk. Add
the softened gelatin. Proceed as for standard sponge mixtures.
Mold, chill and serve with whipped cream.
534
PLAIN BAVARIAN CREAM
1 ounce (2 tablespoons) l / 2 cup sugar
granulated gelatin Salt
l /z cup cold water 1 teaspoon vanilla
1 pint scalded milk 1 pint heavy cream
4 egg-yolks
Soak the gelatin in cold water until soft. Make a soft custard
of the milk, egg-yolks, sugar and flavoring. Stir the softened
gelatin into the hot custard. When the gelatin has dissolved,
strain and cool. Whip the cream and fold it in as the mixture
congeals.
RICE BAVARIAN
l l / 2 pints milk 1 ounce (2 tablespoons)
Lemon-peel granulated gelatin
l /2 cup rice l /2 cup cold water
l /4 teaspoon salt 1 cup heavy cream
l /2 cup sugar Strawberries
1 teaspoon flavoring
Put the milk and a few thin cuts of lemon-peel into a double
boiler. When it is hot, stir in the well -washed rice and salt.
Cook until the rice is perfectly tender. The milk should be
nearly absorbed, leaving the rice very moist. Add to the hot
cooked rice the flavoring, the sugar and the gelatin, which has
been soaked in the cold water, and mix carefully. When the
mixture is beginning to set, fold in the cream, whipped stiff.
Pour into a mold and chill. Serve with sweetened crushed
strawberries. The white mold with red sauce makes a charming
combination.
MONT BLANC
1 pound large chestnuts % cup sugar
l /2 teaspoon salt Whipped cream
Put the chestnuts into the oven for a moment, until the shell
and inner skin can be easily removed. Boil the skinned chest-
nuts in water with the salt and three tablespoons of the sugar,
until they are very tender. Add one-half cup sugar to the
water and chestnuts and let stand until thoroughly cold. Re-
move chestnuts from this sirup and run them through a potato-
ricer on to a platter, mounding it high. Save a few of the finest
whole pieces to decorate the dish. Top the mound with a
CUSTARDS, GELATIN, ETC. 535
spoonful of sweetened whipped cream, and put a border of
whipped cream around the edge of the dish, dotting it with the
whole nuts here and there.
MACAROON BISQUE
1 cup heavy cream 18 macaroons
Powdered sugar 6 maraschino cherries
Vanilla
Whip a cup of cream until stiff, sweeten with powdered
sugar and flavor lightly with vanilla. Stir in six macaroons
broken in small pieces, but not powdered. Pile in sherbet
glasses with a border of the whole macaroons and decorate with
marshmallows or maraschino cherries. This is an excellent
emergency dessert.
PINEAPPLE AMBROSIA
1 fresh pineapple or 1 cup heavy cream
1 can crushed pineapple 2 tablespoons sugar
l /z pound marshmallows \ l /z tablespoons lemon-juice
Shred the pineapple with a fork. Cut the marshmallows into
small pieces, using a pair of scissors. Mix the pineapple and
marshmallows and let stand on ice until thoroughly chilled.
Just before serving, whip the cream and add the sugar to it.
Add lemon- juice to the pineapple mixture and then fold in
the whipped cream. Serve immediately in individual glasses
or in a large dessert dish.
FRUIT FLUFF
1 cup powdered sugar 4 cups sliced peaches or
1 cup thick cream apple sauce or berries
2 egg-whites
Add half the sugar to the cream, stir until the sugar is dis-
solved, and then add the whites of the eggs beaten stiff. Place
the sliced peaches in a dish, sprinkle them with the remainder
of the sugar, pour on the cream mixture, and serve at once.
The success of this depends upon its being thoroughly chilled
when served. The cream, egg-whites and fruit should be
chilled for at least two hours before the dish is to be prepared,
and the finished dessert should be kept in the refrigerator until
needed.
VARIATIONS ON A
FAMILIAR THEME-
BRING YOUR PASTRY
GUN INTO PLAY AND
CUT YOUR HARD
SAUCE IN STRIPS TO
DECORATE CUSTARDS
A COOL CREAMY
SLICE OF CHARLOTTE
RUSSE RISES TO
OCCASION ON A Hi
SUMMER DAY
-^Irradiated Evaporated
^ \. Milk Institute
SMOOTH, CHILLED
MELON MOLD OF
BAVARIAN CREAM
IS THE FITTING
CLIMAX TO A
WARM-WEATHER
MEAL
536
FIG PUFF
1 cup cream 2 tablespoons powdered sugar
1 egg-white Chopped figs
1 tablespoon grapefruit mar- Maraschino cherries
malade Shredded almonds
Whip the cream until thick. Beat the egg-white until stiff,
then combine with the cream and add the sugar and marmalade.
Stir chopped figs into the mixture until it becomes very thick.
Pack in long-stemmed glasses. This may be garnished by
sprinkling the top with macaroon crumbs. Arrange a half
maraschino cherry with radiating strips of almonds in the center
of each.
CHARLOTTE RUSSE
No. 1 Line a number of small molds, or one large deep
mold, with a thin layer of cake. Thin sponge cake that has
been cut with a sharp knife, when cold, into two layers of equal
thickness is considered attractive, but halved lady fingers or
pieces of any plain cake cut one-half inch thick may be used.
Charlottes are made with and without tops, according to taste
or convenience.
Fill the forms with whipped cream sweetened with powdered
sugar and any desired flavoring. To make sure that the cream
is sufficiently stiff, fold into it lightly the stiffly beaten whites
of two eggs to eacli pint of cream. Keep the charlottes on ice
until needed, and serve on chilled plates.
No. 2 Substitute velvet cream (See Index) for the whipped
cream mixture in the preceding recipe.
MAPLE CHARLOTTE RUSSE
l /2 ounce (1 tablespoon) l /2 cup maple sirup
granulated gelatin 1 teaspoon vanilla
l /2 cup cold water 1 pint heavy cream
l /2 cup scalded milk Lady fingers
l /4 cup brown sugar
Follow standard formula for charlotte or Bavarian cream
(See Index). Line molds with lady fingers and fill with the
cream mixture. Chill, unmold and serve.
CUSTARDS, GELATIN, ETC. 537
ICE BOX CAKES
GENERAL DIRECTIONS Line the bottom and sides of a spring
form melon mold or deep cake form with lady fingers, separated
and placed with the rounded side toward the pan. Place them
as close together as possible. Prepare any of the fillings and
proceed as follows:
Place a layer of the filling on the lady fingers at the bottom
of the form. On top of this arrange another layer of lady
fingers, then another layer of filling, and so on$ placing lady
fingers on top like the spokes of a wheel.
Set in the refrigerator or other cold place and let it stand
twenty to twenty-four hours. When ready to serve$ remove
the rim of the form, place the cake with the tin bottom on a
platter, cover the top with sweetened and flavored whipped
cream. Decorate, if desired, with pistachio or other nut-meats
or with candied cherries.
QUANTITIES REQUIRED To encase and garnish the fillings
given below, unless an exception is noted, the quantities re-
quired are as follows:
2 1/2 dozen lady fingers */2 cup confectioners' sugar
l /2 pint thick cream l / 2 teaspoon vanilla
CHOCOLATE FILLING.
4 eggs 3 tablespoons water
l /2 pound sweet chocolate 3 tablespoons sugar
Melt the chocolate in a double boiler, add the sugar and the
water with the yolks of the eggs, well beaten. Cook slowly
until thick and smooth, stirring constantly. When cool, add
the stiffly beaten egg-whites.
MOCHA FILLING.
1 cup hot milk */ 8 teaspoon salt
l /4 cup ground coffee 3 eggs
l /2 cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla
2 tablespoons corn-starch
Pour the hot milk over the coffee and let stand where it will
keep hot for ten minutes. Strain. Mix corn-starch, salt and
sugar in a double boiler, add the egg-yolks, well beaten, stir
in the coffee infusion gradually. Cook slowly until thick and
538
*^/v^/
smooth, stirring constantly. Remove from fire and cool slightly.
While still warm, fold in the stiffly beaten egg-whites.
ALMOND OR PECAN FILLING With this filling macaroons
are combined with the lady fingers usually used.
1 cup unsalted butter 6 eggs
1 1 /2 cups powdered sugar 1 8 lady fingers
J/2 pound blanched and grated 30 macaroons
almonds
Line the bottom of the mold with stout waxed paper.
Separate the lady fingers and place the halves close together
on the sides of the pan, rounded ends cut off and rounded sides
toward the pan. Lay macaroons close together on the bottom,
flat side down. Fill the small spaces between macaroons with
the ends cut from the lady fingers.
Cream butter and sugar, add three eggs, one at a time, and
stir well. Add the yolks of the remaining eggs, well beaten,
then the nuts, then fold in the beaten whites. Place one-half
of this mixture over the macaroons. Add another layer of
macaroons and top with the rest of the filling.
Set in the refrigerator and leave for thirty hours. Serve as
outlined in General Directions.
LEMON FILLING.
1 cup rich milk l /2 cup sugar
1 tablespoon butter 3 eggs
1 teaspoon corn-starch Juice of 1 lemon
Place corn-starch, sugar, egg-yolks, slightly beaten, milk and
butter in a double boiler. Cook slowly until thick and smooth^
stirring constantly. Add the lemon- juice. Remove from the
fire and cool slightly. While still warm, fold in the stiffly
beaten egg-whites.
RICH LEMON CREAM.
5 eggs, separated 1 cup powdered sugar
1/2 cup lemon juice
Mix egg yolks, sugar and lemon juice and cook over hot water
5 minutes, stirring constantly until mixture thickens. Fold
gently into stiffly beaten egg whites. Chill.
HOT AND COLD PUDDINGS
THE temperature at which a pudding is served depends some-
what upon the nature of the pudding. However, souffles,
must be served hot because they begin to fall as soon as they are
taken from the oven; and certain others, such as the steamed
puddings and baked batters or doughs, become soggy when cold.
Some puddings may be chilled almost to the point of freez-
ing, and for these the mechanical refrigerator is very satisfac-
tory. Use the ring mold for both hot and cold puddings, unmold
on the serving plate and serve with the bowl of sauce or cream
in the center. See page 344.
Puddings that May be Served Either Hot or Cold
BREAD PUDDING
2 cups stale bread. 2 eggs
1 quart milk l / 2 cup sugar
l / 4 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon vanilla
l /2 cup raisins if desired
Soak the bread in the milk until it is very soft, then mash
it fine. Heat together until nearly boiling. Beat the eggs until
light and add to them the sugar, salt and vanilla. When well
mixed, stir this into the bread and milk, pour the whole into
an earthenware baking-dish, set in a pan of water, and bake
in a slow oven (250-350 F.).
CHOCOLATE BREAD PUDDING Melt two squares of chocolate
over hot water and add this to the soaked bread and milk.
COCONUT PUDDING
l /2 cup bread-crumbs 3 tablespoons sugar
l / 2 cup moist coconut l / 2 teaspoon salt
2 cups milk 1 tablespoon butter or other
1 egg fat
Soak the bread and coconut in the milk until soft, then mash
and add the sugar, salt and melted fat. Beat the white and
539
540
~*r^~r
yolk of the egg separately; add the yolk to the mixture, then
fold in the white. Pour into a greased baking-dish, set in a
pan of hot water and bake in a slow oven (250-300 F.).
SPICE PUDDING
1 cup raisins l /z teaspoon cloves
1 egg l /z teaspoon allspice
l /2 cup sugar % teaspoon nutmeg
2 cups milk 1 teaspoon melted butter or
1 1 /2 cups fresh bread-crumbs other fat
1 teaspoon cinnamon l /$ teaspoon salt
Seed the raisins and cut them in half. Beat the egg light,
add the sugar and then the milk and pour the whole over the
crumbs. Add the spice, fat, salt and raisins, stir well, pour into
a baking-dish, set in a pan of water, and bake until firm in a
slow oven (250 -3 50 F.). Serve hot or cold, with any de-
sired sauce.
QUEEN OF PUDDINGS
2 cups stale bread-crumbs Currant jelly or plum jam
1 quart scalded milk 2 tablespoons sugar for
3 eggs meringue
l /z cup sugar
Soak the crumbs in the hot milk until soft ; then add the egg-
yolks mixed with the sugar, pour into a baking-dish set in a
pan of water, and bake in a slow oven (250-350 F.) about
an hour, or until custard is set. When cool, spread a thick layer
of the jelly or jam over the top. Beat the egg-whites until stiff,
add the sugar gradually and beat until stiff, spread this meringue
on top of the jam and place in the oven until a delicate brown.
Serve hot or cold, with cream.
ORANGE AND RICE
Pare oranges, cut in half crosswise and remove the core. Cook
the halves, until they are tender but not broken, in a sirup made
from equal parts of sugar and water, to which a little lemon -
juice has been added.
Place around a mound of boiled rice and pour the sirup over
the whole. Serve with plain or whipped cream, or a custard
sauce. Serve hot or cold.
HOT AND COLD PUDDINGS 541
CREAMY RICE PUDDING
3 tablespoons rice l /z teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar */2 teaspoon cinnamon or
1 quart milk nutmeg
Wash the rice thoroughly, add the other ingredients and pour
into a greased baking-dish. Bake from one and one-half to two
hours in a slow oven (250-350 F.) stirring several times.
The mixture should not boil.
This is the old-fashioned creamy pudding which has such a
delicious flavor because of the long slow cooking. One-half cup
of raisins may be added, if desired. Serve hot or cold.
APPLE OR OTHER FRUIT TAPIOCA
1 cup any fresh fruit, such as has been soaked but not
apples, peaches, apricots, cooked
sour cherries and cran- % CU P granulated tapioca
berries or l /2 cup sugar
1 cup any dried fruit which 3 cups cold water
Cook the tapioca and water in a double boiler until trans-
parent. Pare and core the apples or prepare the other fruit,
place in a baking-dish, sprinkle with sugar, pour over the sweet-
ened fruit the tapioca, cover and bake in a slow oven (250-
350 F.) until the apples or other fruit are perfectly tender.
For the last ten minutes, remove the cover so that the surface
of the pudding may brown slightly. Serve hot or cold, with
cream.
CREAM TAPIOCA
l l /2 tablespoons granulated 2 eggs
tapioca l / 4 teaspoon salt
2 cups scalded milk 1 teaspoon vanilla
l /3 cup sugar
Add the tapioca to the milk and cook in a double boiler until
the tapioca is transparent. Add half the sugar to the milk and
half to the salt and the egg-yolks, slightly beaten. Pour the
hot mixture slowly over the egg mixture; return to the double
boiler and cook until it thickens. Remove from the heat and
add the stiffly beaten egg-whites and the flavoring. Turn into
the serving dish and serve hot or cold.
542
,>v
WITH FRUIT Allow the cream tapioca to cool and turn it
over sliced oranges or other cut fruit. Chill and serve.
SCALLOPED PEACHES
1 teaspoon butter or other fat % cup brown sugar
1 cup peaches % cup bread-crumbs or cake-
1 quart apples crumbs
l / 4 teaspoon salt % CU P water
Grease a baking-dish with the fat. Chop the peaches and put
half of them in the bottom of the dish. Pare and quarter the
apples and lay half of them over the peaches. Sprinkle with
salt, add the other half of the peaches, and then the apples, and
sprinkle again with salt. Scatter the sugar over the top, then
the crumbs, then pour the water over all. Cover the dish and
bake in a slow oven (250-350 F.) from forty- five to sixty
minutes, removing the cover after thirty minutes. Serve hot
or cold, with or without whipped cream or marshmallows.
Puddings That Should Be Served Hot
FRUIT. SOUFFLES
1 cup fruit pulp 3 egg-whites
Sugar Salt
Any kind of fruit, either fresh or preserved, may be used.
When canned fruit is used, drain from sirup. Rub the fruit
pulp through a sieve, add a pinch of salt, sweeten if necessary,
and heat. Fold the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs into the
hot fruit pulp. Fill a greased baking-dish or small molds three-
fourths full, set in a pan of hot water and bake in a moderate
oven (375 F.) until firm. Serve at once with whipped cream
or a soft custard.
VANILLA.
1 cup scalded milk 5/3 cup sugar
4 tablespoons flour 3 eggs
2 tablespoons fat l /2 teaspoon vanilla
Make a sauce of the milk? flour, fat and sugar. Add the
beaten egg-yolks and flavoring. Fold in the beaten egg-whites,
pour into a greased baking-dish, set this in hot water, and bake
in a moderate oven (375 F.) until the egg-white is set. Serve
at once with lemon sauce or cream.
HOT AND COLD PUDDINGS 543
CHOCOLATE.
1 cup scalded milk 1 tablespoon fat
3 tablespoons flour Y$ cup sugar
2 ounces grated chocolate 3 eggs
Make a sauce of the milk, flour, chocolate, fat and sugar.
Proceed as for vanilla souffle.
COFFEE.
Substitute coffee for milk in vanilla souffle and omit vanilla.
LEMON.
5 eggs l /4 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons sugar 3 tablespoons lemon-juice
Grated rind of l /2 lemon
Beat egg-yolks until light. Add sugar and beat again. Add
lemon-juice and rind. Beat egg-whites with salt until stiff and
dry. Fold the egg-yolk mixture into the beaten whites and
bake as directed for vanilla souffle. Serve at once.
OMELET.
3 eggs 1 1 / 2 tablespoons powdered
Vanilla or lemon flavor sugar
Beat the egg-whites until stiff and dry and the yolks until
light. Add the sugar and flavoring to the yolks, then fold in
the whites, and pile the mass as high as possible in a greased
baking-dish. Smooth the top of the mound, make a slit down
the center and bake as directed for vanilla souffle. Sprinkle
with powdered sugar and serve.
CUSTARD.
1 cup milk 2 tablespoons butter or other
2 tablespoons flour fat
2 tablespoons sugar 4 eggs
Make a white sauce of the milk, flour and fat. Stir in the
sugar, allow the mixture to cool slightly, then add the beaten
egg-yolks, mix thoroughly and fold in the stiffly beaten whites.
Pour into a greased baking-dish and bake as directed for vanilla
souffle. Serve at once.
544
COTTAGE PUDDING
\ l /2 cups flour l /2 cup milk
3 teaspoons baking-powder 1 egg
l / 2 cup sugar J4 cup shortening
l /2 teaspoon salt
Sift the flour with the baking-powder. Cream the shorten-
ing and add the sugar and salt and the egg, well beaten. Then
add the milk and flour alternately. Pour into a greased pan
and bake in a moderate oven (375-400 F.) 35 to 45 minutes.
BLUEBERRY PUDDING
Add one cup blueberries to cottage pudding batter and bake
in muffin tins at 400 F.
FRUIT BATTER PUDDING
Place a thick layer of fruit in the bottom of a greased bak-
ing-dish and pour custard souffle or cottage pudding batter
over it. Bake in a moderate oven (375 -4 00 F.) about thirty
minutes. Any fresh or canned fruit that is not too juicy may
be used, or dried fruit that has been soaked. Apricots, peaches
and blackberries are particularly delicious.
BROWN BETTY
This pudding is usually made with apples, but almost any
other fruit may be used instead of or in combination with them.
Peaches, apricots and rhubarb are especially good. Serve hot
with cream or with any preferred sauce, or without a sauce.
No. 1.
l /4 cup melted butter l /z cup fruit-juice or water
1 pint bread-crumbs */2 cup sugar or molasses
1 pint sliced apples or other Juice and grated rind of a
fruit lemon or orange, if desired
Cinnamon or other spices
Arrange layers of buttered crumbs and thin sliced apples in
a pudding dish. Sprinkle each layer of fruit with sugar and
a little cinnamon or other spices. Finish with a layer of crumbs
and pour fruit-juice or mixed molasses and water over the top.
HOT AND COLD PUDDINGS 545
Cover and bake in a slow oven (2 50 -3 50 F.) for thirty
minutes, then remove the cover and bake forty-five minutes
longer.
No. 2.
1 cup bread-crumbs 1 cup water
3J/2 cups chopped apples or 1 apple, washed, cored and
other fruit sliced to form rings
l /2 cup honey
Mix the crumbs and chopped apples or other fruit and place
in a deep baking-dish. Bring the honey and water to a boil
and pour over the fruit and bread mixture. Sprinkle a few
dry crumbs on top and lay the apple rings around the edge.
Bake in a slow oven (250-350 F.) as directed for No. 1.
APPLE CHARLOTTE
Slices of stale bread, l / 4 inch Stewed tart apples, mashed
thick and seasoned with sugar
Melted butter and nutmeg
Chopped almonds, if desired
Line a greased mold with the bread slices, dipped into or
brushed with the melted butter. The slices should fit close
together and may even overlap. Fill the center with the stewed
apples and add chopped almonds if you wish. Cover the top
with slices of the bread, buttered, and bake in a hot oven
(400 F.) for thirty minutes. The bread should have the ap-
pearance of being sauted and should be well browned. Turn
out on a platter and serve hot.
PEACH PUDDING
6 sliced peaches, fresh or 2 cups milk
canned, or l / 2 cup dried l / 2 teaspoon vanilla
peaches, soaked and stewed 3 eggs
l /4 cup sugar Stale bread
l /2 teaspoon salt
Add the sugar, salt and vanilla to the milk and stir in the
eggs, well-beaten. Dip slices of stale bread into the mixture
and line a quart baking-dish with it. Arrange layers of bread
and sliced peaches to fill the dish. Pour any remaining liquid
546
'VSXN^'
over the top. Set dish in a pan of ihot water and bake in a
slow oven (325-350 F.) until firm (about 30 minutes).
Serve hot with any sauce.
ORANGE AND MACAROON PUDDING
% pound almond macaroons l / 2 cup sugar
1 pint milk 2 oranges
4 eggs
Soak the macaroons in the milk. Beat the eggs and add to
them the sugar and the grated rind of one orange. Stir the
mixture carefully into the macaroons and milk and add the
juice of the oranges. Pour into a greased mold and set on a
trivet in a kettle of boiling water. Simmer steadily for an hour.
Serve hot with orange sauce.
NEW ENGLAND PANDOWDY
2 cups tart apples, pared and 2 tablespoons water
cored, or other fruit Nutmeg or cinnamon
Sugar Baking-powder crust
Fill a greased baking-dish half full of the fruit, sprinkle
with sugar and cinnamon or nutmeg, add the water to make
a little juice and cover with a baking-powder biscuit crust.
Bake in a hot oven (400 -450 F.) until the crust is thoroughly
baked and the fruit tender. If the crust becomes too brown
before it is cooked through, reduce the heat slightly after the
first twenty minutes. A thick crust of this kind is more easily
baked if a small opening is left in the middle. With a rolled
crust a piece may be cut out with a tiny cookie cutter. If the
crust is dropped from the spoon it may be placed around the
edge of the dish so that there is a small opening in the center.
APPLE RICE PUDDING
1 cup rice l / 2 teaspoon cinnamon
2 eggs y 4 teaspoon salt
3 /4 cup sugar 3 large apples
l /z cup raisins l / 4 cup butter
Wash the rice and boil in salted water until soft. Drain.
Add the egg-yolks, sugar, raisins, cinnamon and salt. Cut the
apples in very small pieces and add to the rice. Beat the egg-
HOT AND COLD PUDDINGS 547
whites stiff and fold into the mixture. Melt the fat in a baking-
dish and stir half of it into the pudding mixture, spreading the
rest over the inside of the dish. Pour the mixture into the bak-
ing-dish and bake in a moderate oven (375 -400 F.) about
forty minutes. Serve hot.
No. 1. INDIAN PUDDING
1 quart milk l /z cup brown sugar
5/3 cup corn-meal l /2 teaspoon salt
l /2 cup raisins l /z teaspoon ginger
l /z teaspoon cinnamon 1 egg
Place the milk in a double boiler and when it is scalding hot
add the corn-meal, moistened with cold water, and stir con-
stantly to avoid lumps. Cook for twenty minutes. Turn into
a pudding-dish and stir in the other ingredients adding the
beaten egg last. Bake two to three hours in a slow oven (250-
350 F.) and serve hot with hard sauce or any preferred sauce.
One-half cup dates or figs may be used instead of the raisins.
No. 2.
% cup corn-meal 2 eggs
1 quart hot milk 1 tablespoon shortening
1 teaspoon cinnamon l /z teaspoon salt
*/4 cup sugar 2 cups chopped apples
Slowly add the meal, moistened with cold water, to the hot
milk, stirring constantly, and cook to a thick mush. Add the
other ingredients and mix well. Turn into a greased baking-
dish and bake in a slow oven (250-350 F.) for two hours
and a half. Serve hot with any sauce desired.
OLD-FASHIONED STRAWBERRY OR OTHER
FRUIT SHORTCAKE
2 cups flour 1/3 cup shortening
4 teaspoons baking-powder % CU P "^Ik
l /2 teaspoon salt Butter
1 tablespoon sugar Strawberries or other fruit
Mix and sift the dry ingredients and work in the shortening
with the fingers or a knife. Gradually add enough milk to
make a soft dough, mixing with a knife. Toss the dough on
to a floured board and tap and roll to one-half inch thickness.
548
*\^/v/
Bake in sheets for a large shortcake or cut with a biscuit cutter
or bake in muffin tins for individual shortcakes. Bake in a
very hot oven (450 -460 F. ) twelve to fifteen minutes. When
done, split into two parts, butter and put crushed sweetened
fruit between the layers and on top. Serve hot with cream.
Any fresh berries, peaches, oranges, bananas, or stewed fruits^
fresh or dried, may be used for shortcake.
FRUIT DUMPLINGS
i : '-
Make a baking-powder biscuit dough, adding a little more
shortening than when making biscuit. Roll one-fourth inch
thick and cut into five-inch squares. Place a mound of fruit,
pared, cored, or whole, in the center of each square. If large
fruit is used, it should first be cooked five or ten minutes.
Sprinkle the fruit with sugar and cinnamon or nutmeg. Moisten
the edges of the dough with water or cold milk and fold so
that the corners will meet in the center. Press the edges lightly
together.
The tops may be brushed with beaten egg, melted fat or
milk, and sprinkled with sugar. Place dumplings in a greased
pan with a small amount of boiling water and bake in a very
hot oven (450 F.) until crust and fruit are cooked. Serve
with cream or a sauce.
ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING
1 pound chopped suet 2 cups crumbs
2 pounds raisins 1 teaspoon mixed spices
1 pound currants 2 cups brown sugar
1 pound mixed peel 8 eggs
2 cups flour
Mix the suet, the fruit and the chopped peel and dredge with
some of the flour. Mix together the remaining flour, crumbs,
spices and sugar, and add the well-beaten eggs. Stir the fruit
and suet into this mixture and mix the whole thoroughly. Put
into greased molds or into pudding cloths. Drop into a kettle
of boiling water and boil from five to seven hours, according
to the size of the pudding. Serve with hard sauce or any desired
liquid sauce.
HOT AND COLD PUDDINGS 549
Steamed Puddings
APPLE, OR OTHER FRUIT ROLY-POLY
Make a baking-powder biscuit dough and roll it into a
sheet about one-fourth of an inch thick. Spread it thickly
with sliced apples, and sprinkle over them sugar and cinnamon.
Roll up the dough as for jelly roll, pressing the overlapping parts
of the dough well to the body of the pudding and also press the
ends well to prevent the escape of the juices. Roll and tie in a
cloth, leaving room for the pudding to expand, place on a plate,
cover carefully and set in a steamer over a kettle of hot water
and steam one and one-half hours. Serve hot with apple sauce
or any other sauce desired.
This may be baked if apples that cook quickly are used.
Cherries, cranberries or other fruit may be used instead of
apples.
CARROT PUDDING
1 l /z cups crumbs l /z cup chopped dates or
1 tablespoon shortening or l /2 prunes
cup fine chopped suet J/2 cup raisins
l /4 teaspoon salt l / 2 cup chopped figs
l /2 cup grated carrots l / 2 cup ground nuts
1 teaspoon baking-powder l / 2 lemon
1 cup molasses
Brown the crumbs and mix them with the fat. Salt the car-
rots, which have been grated or put through the meat-grinder,
and add them to the crumbs. Next add the molasses, the fruit,
nuts, lemon-juice and grated rind. Mix all well together and
stir in the baking-powder. Turn into a well-greased mold and
steam for four or five hours. Serve with a raisin sauce.
FRUIT PUDDING
3}/2 cups mixed fruit and juice 2y 2 cups flour
1/2 c-up shortening 4 teaspoons baking-powder
1 cup sugar 1 cup milk
2 eggs Cream, sherry wine
Place fruit in deep baking dish, cover and boil. Cream the
shortening and sugar, add the beaten eggs and beat well. Sift
together the flour and baking-powder and add to the first
mixture alternately with the milk. Add flavoring. Mix to
smooth batter and pour over boiling fruit mixture. Cook 40
TOP YOUR RENNET-
CUSTARD WITH
FLUFFY MERINGUE OR
D E L I CAT EL Y
BROWNED COCONUT
SHREDS
A HAPPY COMBINATION OF FRUITS
MAKES THIS PUDDING COLORFUL
AND TEMPTING
Wheat Flour Institute
G t THIS
PUDDING IS
DY FOR DINNER
Wheat Flour
Institute
MONARCH OF ENGLISH
COOKERY, THIS FLUM
PUDDING ALSO HOLDS
COURT IN MANY AMERI-
CAN HOMES
550
A/\/^-
minutes in moderate oven (350 F.). Turn out on hot platter,
allowing fruit sirup to drip over pudding. Serve with whipped
cream flavored with sherry wine.
STEAMED CHOCOLATE PUDDING
2 cups flour y z cup hot mashed potatoes
4 l /2 teaspoons baking-powder 1 egg
Y 4 teaspoon salt 2 l / 2 squares chocolate
1 cup corn sirup 3 tablespoons shortening
l /2 cup water
Mix and sift the flour, baking-powder and salt. Mix the
sirup with the water and add to the flour mixture. Stir in the
mashed potatoes and the beaten egg. Add the chocolate, melted
over hot water, and the melted shortening. Mix well, pour into
greased individual molds and steam two hours. Serve with any
desired sauce.
STEAMED DATE PUDDING
1 pound dates 1 egg
l /2 pound beef suet l / 2 cup milk
3 cups bread-crumbs 4 tablespoons flour
% cup sugar 2 teaspoons baking-powder
Chop the dates and suet very fine. Mix the suet with the
bread-crumbs. Add the dates and the sugar. Stir in the egg,
add milk, and flour sifted with the baking-powder. Put in a
greased mold and steam for three hours. Serve with any de-
sired sauce.
l. STEAMED GRAHAM PUDDING
l /2 cup ground cracklings 1 teaspoon salt
1 cup molasses 1 cup seeded raisins
1 cup sour milk 2 tablespoons white flour
2 cups graham flour 1 teaspoon cinnamon
5/2 cup corn-meal l / 2 teaspoon each, mace,
4 teaspoons baking-powder cloves, allspice, ginger
l /2 teaspoon soda
Mix and sift the dry ingredients, excepting the white flour.
Add molasses and milk to cracklings. Combine mixtures. Mix
white flour and raisins and add to mixture. Turn into greased
HOT AND COLD PUDDINGS 551
mold. Cover and steam three hours. Serve with caramel or
lemon sauce.
No. 2.
1 cup graham flour 1 cup molasses
1 cup white flour 1 cup sour milk
1 teaspoon salt 1 egg
%. teaspoon soda 1 cup raisins
Mix and sift the dry ingredients, keeping out one-half cup
of flour to sift over the raisins. Add the molasses, milk and
beaten egg. Mix well, then add the raisins which have been
dredged with flour. Pour into greased molds and steam two
and one-half hours. Serve with any sauce desired.
STEAMED MARMALADE PUDDING
1 cup flour 4 eggs
l /2 cup shortening 4 tablespoons marmalade
l /2 cup sugar 2 teaspoons baking-powder
Beat the shortening and sugar, add the flour and baking-
powder, sifted together, and the eggs, well beaten. Mix well.
Spread the marmalade in the bottom of a mold, pour the batter
on top, cover the mold and steam for one and one-half hours.
STEAMED PEACH PUDDING
3 cups peaches 4 teaspoons baking-powder
2 cups flour 2 tablespoons shortening
l /z teaspoon salt 1 cup milk
To be successful with this kind of pudding, the cook must
see that the water is boiling violently when the pudding is
placed over it and must not allow it to fall below the boiling-
point at any time while the pudding is cooking.
Sift the flour, salt and baking-powder together, rub in the
shortening and add the milk. The result will be a dough too
soft to roll out. Peel and stone the peaches and cut them into
rather thick slices. Place the sliced fruit in a greased pudding-
dish, spread the dough over the fruit and set the dish in a
steamer over a kettle of rapidly boiling water, covering the
steamer tightly. Steam for one hour. Turn the pudding out
without breaking. This brings the peaches uppermost, when
the pudding is sent to the table. Serve with hard sauce or any
liquid sauce.
55*
STEAMED SUET PUDDING
3 cups sifted flour
1 teaspoon soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon cloves
l /2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
teaspoon salt
cup suet
cup sour milk
cup molasses
cup raisins
Mix and sift the dry ingredients, keeping one-half cup of
flour to sift over the raisins. Chop the suet fine and add it to
the milk and molasses. Combine the two mixtures and add the
raisins, dredged with flour. Grease pudding molds or baking-
powder cans and fill two-thirds full of the mixture. Cover and
steam for three hours. Serve with hard sauce or any desired
liquid sauce.
Cold Puddings
RICE PUDDING
2 eggs l l /4 cups cooked rice
2 cups milk % teaspoon salt
l /2 cup raisins l /z cup sugar
J /s teaspoon cinnamon or 1 tablespoon powdered sugar
nutmeg
Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs, add to the yolks two
tablespoons of the milk and place the rest of the milk on the
fire in a double boiler. Wash the raisins, put them in the milk
and cook until soft (about fifteen minutes). Add the rice,
cook five minutes longer, then stir in the yolks of the eggs and
the salt, sugar and spice. Stir well, cook for two or three
minutes, remove from the fire and pour the pudding into the
serving-dish. Beat the whites of the eggs light, add sugar,
spread the meringue on top of the pudding and brown delicately
in the oven. Serve cold.
RICE AND APPLE PUDDING
8 apples l /2 cup rice
4 tablespoons butter 8 tablespoons marmalade
4 tablespoons sugar *4 teaspoon salt
Cut the apples into small pieces and simmer in a saucepan with
the fat and sugar and enough water to cover. Wash the rice
HOT AND COLD PUDDINGS 553
and cook in boiling salted water until soft, then drain. Line
the bottom and sides of a mold with the rice, fill the center with
the apples, and spread the marmalade over them. Cover the
mold with rice and bake in a slow oven (300-350 F.) for
fifteen minutes. Let stand until cold, then unmold and turn
on to a platter. Serve with any desired sauce.
Apricots or other fruit may be substituted for the apples.
PEAR CONDE
1 cup rice 3 pears
2 cups boiling water 1 quart raspberries or straw-
1 teaspoon salt berries
1 cup milk 1 cup sugar
Wash the rice and cook it in the boiling water until the water
is absorbed, then add the salt and milk and continue cooking
until the rice is soft. Put into small molds and chill. Turn out
and serve on a platter surrounded by halves of pears. Fill the
pear cavities with one-half the fresh raspberries or strawberries,
crushed and sweetened. Pour the remainder of the crushed*
sweetened berries over the rice and pears. A spoonful of
whipped cream with each serving is a great addition to this
dish.
NEW ENGLAND APRICOT PUDDING
l /2 pound dried apricots 1 cup boiled frosting, using
Cinnamon toast three egg-whites or 1 cup
Yz cup sugar meringue
Soak the apricots over night. Stew until tender and add the
sugar. Arrange squares of cinnamon toast in the bottom and
around the sides of a pudding-dish. Pour in the boiling hot
apricots, cover the dish so that no steam can escape and cool
gradually. Chill and cover the top with boiled frosting
garnished with bits of jelly or with meringue.
PEASANT GIRL WITH A VEIL
2 cups dried crumbs 1 cup tart jam Whipped cream
This is a delicious Danish pudding. Crumble bits of graham
or rye bread to make fine crumbs. Add a little sugar to the
crumbs and heat them in slow oven until they are very dry.
Cool and mix with any kind of jam, preferably a tart jam like
apricot or plum. Mold, chill and serve with whipped cream.
554
FRUIT CHARLOTTE
Line cups with triangular pieces of sponge cake and choco-
late cake, alternating. Fill the center with slices of orange
and peach. Chill, turn out on a serving-plate and surround
with whipped cream and blackberries. Put a spoonful of
whipped cream on top and serve very cold.
SWEET STRAWBERRY OR OTHER FRUIT
SHORTCAKE
% cup shortening l l /2 cups pastry flour
3 /4 cup sugar 2 l /z teaspoons baking-powder
2 eggs l /4. 'teaspoon salt
Yz cup milk or water Strawberries or other fruit
Cream the fat, add the sugar gradually, continuing the cream-
ing process until all is added. Separate the eggs. Beat the yolks
until creamy, add to the shortening and sugar mixture and mix
well. Sift the flour, measure, add the baking-powder and salt
and sift again. Add the flour and milk alternately. Beat the
whites of the eggs until stiff and fold into the mixture. Pour
into two well-greased layer-cake tins and bake in a moderate
oven (375 F.). Turn out and cool. Spread one sheet with a
layer of sweeterred, crushed berries or diced fruits. Cover with
the other sheet and cover the whole with more fruit. Top with
whipped cream, if desired. Serve at once.
RENNET-CUSTARDS
1 rennet tablet 1 pint milk
3 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla
Set out 4 or 5 dessert glasses. Dissolve rennet tablet in 1
tablespoon of cold water. Warm the milk, sugar and vanilla
slowly, stirring constantly, until lukewarm (110 F.) not
hot. A few drops of milk on the inside of your wrist should
feel only comfortably warm. Remove from stove. If desired,
add small pinch of sak. Add dissolved rennet tablet and stir
quickly for a few seconds only. Pour at once, while still liquid,
into dessert glasses Let set until it thickens about 10 minutes.
Chill rennet-custards in refrigerator. Serve in same glasses.
HOT AND COLD PUDDINGS 555
Rennet-custards may be served with a sauce made of a mixture
of sweetened fruits such as bananas, cooked or canned pine-
apple, oranges and dates or crushed and sweetened berries. They
may also be served with chocolate or caramel sauce.
VARIATIONS OF RENNET-CUSTARDS
CHOCOLATE Melt one ounce of chocolate over hot water.
Add three tablespoons hot water, cook until it is smooth and
add to the milk before it is heated.
CARAMEL Caramelize the sugar, add sufficient hot water to
dissolve the caramel and add to the milk.
WITH EGGS Beat the yolks of 2 eggs with the sugar and
mix with the milk before it is heated. Make a meringue of the
whites by beating until stiff, then beating in sugar. Drop
spoonfuls on a buttered baking sheet and bake in moderate oven
at 325 F. until lightly browned. At serving time, top each
dish of rennet-custard with a meringue.
CORN-STARCH BLANC MANGE
2y 2 tablespoons corn-starch iy 2 cups scalded milk
2 to 4 tablespoons sugar y 2 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 cup cold milk Pinch salt
Mix corn-starch and sugar with one-half cup cold milk. Scald
remainder of milk in top of double boiler. Carefully add the
corn-starch mixture to the scalded milk, cook over direct heat,
stirring constantly until thick and smooth. Cover and cook
in the double boiler for forty-five minutes. Five minutes before
it is finished add vanilla and salt. Turn into molds wet with
cold water and refrigerate.
VARIATIONS OF CORN-STARCH BLANC MANGE
FRUITED When corn-starch blanc mange begins to set, stir
in one cup of fruit, such as cherries, crushed pineapple, or rasp-
berries.
COCONUT Add one or two cups moist coconut to corn-
starch blanc mange.
ARROWROOT Use 1 cup scalded milk and 6 teaspoons arrow-
root mixed with l /2 cup cold water. Cook in double boiler 45
minutes.
IRISH Moss Soak l /$ cup Irish moss in cold water to cover
15 minutes. Drain and add to 1 pint milk. Cook in double
boiler l /z hour without stirring. It thickens only on cooling.
Serve this as well as arrowroot with cream, sauce or fruit.
556
S**-f
CHOCOLATE
Corn-starch blanc mange 1 cup milk
2 eggs 5 tablespoons sugar
l /2 cup grated chocolate 1 teaspoon vanilla
Make the corn-starch blanc mange. Ten minutes before
cooking is completed, add two beaten egg-yolks. Cook long
enough to set the yolks, then mold.
Melt the chocolate over hot water, add the milk and three
tablespoons of sugar, and cook until smooth. Stir in the vanilla
and set aside to cool. When the corn-starch mold is cold, spread
the chocolate mixture over it.
Beat the egg-whites until stiff, add the remaining two table-
spoons of sugar and a few drops of vanilla. Spread on top of
the chocolate. Brown delicately in a slow oven (300-
350 R).
PRUNE
3 tablespoons corn-starch 1 1 / 2 cups hot pulp and juice
' l /2 cup sugar made from cooking l / 2
l / 2 cup cold prune-juice pound prunes until tender
1 teaspoon cinnamon 2 tablespoons lemon-juice
Mix and cook as for corn -starch blanc mange. Mold and
cool. Serve with cream or lemon sauce.
CARAMEL Add % CU P caramelized sugar sirup (page 457)
to milk after scalding.
COFFEE Substitute 1 cup strong coffee for 1 cup milk.
MOCK BUTTERSCOTCH CUSTARD
1 cup firmly packed brown 3 cups milk
sugar 3 eggs, separated
6 tablespoons flour % teaspoon vanilla
Mix sugar and flour thoroughly; add milk slowly, stirring un-
til smooth. Cook over boiling water 1 5 minutes. Stir small
amount into beaten egg yolks, then return to remaining hot mix-
ture and cook 2 minutes longer, stirring constantly. Remove
from heat and fold gently into egg whites, beaten until stiff but
not dry; add vanilla. Cool.
FROZEN DESSERTS
Ice Creams
ICE CREAMS are generally classified as cooked or uncooked.
All ice-creams are stirred or beaten while freezing.
PLAIN OR PHILADELPHIA IGE CREAM This is cream, or
cream diluted with milk, sweetened, flavored and frozen. Plain
ice-creams may be flavored with extracts or may have crushed
nuts or fruits added. Rich, oily nuts do not combine well with
ice-cream. Walnuts, almonds, pecans and pistachio nuts are
most often used, and crushed peaches, pineapple, apricots or
berries are particularly good for flavoring.
BISQUE ICE CREAM This is made by adding to plain ice-
cream such material as pulverized macaroons, ground nuts and
stale sponge cake crumbs, to give variety in texture and flavor.
FRENCH AND AMERICAN ICE CREAMS In these, the founda-
tion is a custard made with cream, milk, eggs, sugar and flavor-
ing, cooked, chilled and then frozen. In French ice-cream the
custard mixture contains many eggs. In American ice-cream a
plain custard is used.
NEAPOLITAN ICE CREAM This may be made of any variety
of ice-cream tinted in three colors and variously flavored. It is
packed in layers after it is frozen. Sometimes it is made of a
combination of ice-cream and water-ice.
FROZEN PUDDING This is plain ice-cream plus a combina-
tion of fruit and nuts with bread-crumbs, cake-crumbs or
powdered macaroons.
Mousses, Parfaits and Biscuits
MOUSSES A mousse is whipped cream, sweetened, flavored,
packed, and frozen without stirring. Gelatin is often used to
give body to a mousse. In that case it is sometimes spoken of
as a frozen souffle. Chocolate, coffee, maple and fruit flavors
of various kinds are used.
PARFAITS A parfait is made by pouring a hot, thick sirup
over beaten egg-yolks or beaten egg-whites, adding whipped
cream, and packing and freezing the mixture without stirring.
557
558
^X^^X^X
Chocolate, maple and coffee are the most popular flavors for
parfaits.
BISCUITS A biscuit is a yellow parfait mixture to which
beaten egg-whites are added. It is stirred until it is partly
frozen and then packed in small paper serving cases. The cases
are laid in the trays of the mechanical refrigerator or in con-
tainers which are placed in a freezing mixture.
Water Ices, Sherbets, Bombes and Punches
All these mixtures are stirred while being frozen.
ICES A plain ice is a sweetened fruit-juice which may or
may not be diluted with water.
SHERBETS A sherbet is a plain ice plus egg-whites. Gela-
tin is sometimes used in sherbets. In milk sherbets, milk, instead
of water, is used with the fruit-juice.
BOMBES A bombe is a combination of two or more frozen
mixtures, packed in layers in a covered mold.
PUNCHES A punch is a water-ice frozen to a mush with
some highly spiced fruit-juice or other flavoring added.
SORBETS A sorbet is a sherbet made of several kinds of fruit.
Equipment for Making Frozen Desserts
The Crank Freezer
This type of freezer consists of a bucket of wood or metal
for holding the freezing mixture, ice and salt, and a non-rust-
ing metal container with a closely fitting cover for holding
the mixture to be frozen. The mixture in the container is
stirred by a paddle attached through the cover to a crank
which is operated by hand or which may be attached to a small
electric motor.
ICE CRUSHER A bag of heavy muslin, burlap, canvas or sail-
cloth is required to hold the ice while it is broken into small
pieces. Some implement is necessary for pounding the ice in
the bag. A wooden mallet is generally preferred because it
crushes the ice more thoroughly and quickly than a smaller im-
plement. Very satisfactory mallets and bags for breaking ice
can be bought.
THE FREEZING MIXTURE One part salt to eight parts
crushed ice, by measure, is a good proportion for home use. The
ice should be crushed fine, to expose as much surface as possible
FROZEN DESSERTS 559
to the action of the salt. Snow may be used instead of ice, but
it is advisable to mix a small amount of water with the snow to
hasten the melting process. Rock salt is best for use in freezing.
Mix the ice and salt before putting them into the freezer, and
fill the freezer well above the line of the mixture in the ice-
cream container.
The Automatic Freezer
This variety of freezer requires no turning. The wall of the
outer compartment is constructed with an air-space which helps
to keep the warm air from entering and the cold air about the
ice from escaping. The ice-cream is placed in the smaller con-
tainer, covered and packed in ice and salt in the larger container.
At intervals the cover is removed and the contents scraped from
the side and beaten well with a spoon or paddle. It requires
the minimum amount of ice and work to do the freezing and
the frozen product is of a satisfactory quality, although not so
smooth as that made by the freezer in which the mixture is
stirred while freezing.
The Automatic Refrigerator
For speedy freezing, the temperature in the ice-making
drawer of the refrigerator must be under twenty degrees. Your
refrigerator is designed to keep foods at an even low tempera-
ture, and the freezing of desserts is an extra service. If yours
will not freeze them, it is possible to have a switch added which
will keep the motor operating continuously during the freez-
ing period, or the valves may be readjusted to give the whole
box a lower temperature.
No one> however, should be allowed to make adjustments or
tamper with the valves except the electrician sent out by the
salesman.
Preparation of Ingredients
USE MORE FLAVORING in all mixtures that are to be frozen
than in mixtures that are to be served unfrozen, because the
flavor freezes out to some extent. Stir well and thoroughly
dissolve sugar before freezing.
CRUSH FRUIT for fruited creams or put it through a food-
chopper. Large pieces of icy fruit are difficult to eat. Partly
freeze the mixture before adding the fruit, otherwise the milk
or cream may curdle and the fruit may settle to the bottom.
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SCALDING (not boiling) at least part of the cream and milk
will give greater body and finer grain to ice-cream than it will
have if the cream and milk are used without this preparation.
CHILL THE MIXTURE before beginning to freeze. The best
temperature is about 40 F. It should never be over 60 F.
If it is too warm the cream may curdle before freezing.
Freezing Ice Cream
To FREEZE ICE CREAM IN A CRANK FREEZER, have the ice-
cream container not more than three-fourths full. The turning
of the crank incorporates air in the mixture and the freezing
causes expansion, so allow plenty of room for "swell." Place
the can containing the mixture in the freezer pail. Cover the
can and adjust the top. Turn the crank to be sure that the
cover fits tight. Add the ice and salt mixture as directed. Turn
the freezer slowly until the mixture begins to freeze; then turn
it more rapidly. This beats up the cream and produces a swell.
Ice cream takes from twelve to twenty minutes to freeze in
a crank freezer. Ices and sherbets take from twenty to thirty
minutes.
To FREEZE ICE CREAM IN A VACUUM FREEZER, pack in
the same manner as when a crank freezer is used. Several times
during the two hours that are necessary for freezing, remove
enough ice so that you can uncover the can without danger of
salting the cream; scrape the mixture from the sides of the can
with a spoon or paddle and beat thoroughly.
FOR QUICK RESULTS WITH THE AUTOMATIC REFRIGERATOR,
take these precautions:
1. Chill your mixture well before freezing.
2. Do not try to freeze pans of water at the same time with des-
serts.
3. Do not open and close your refrigerator doors often or place
warm, steamy foods in the box while you are freezing desserts.
4. Do not have the mixture too sweet or it will not freeze.
Ice cream mixtures having a heavy custard base respond very
well to the automatic refrigerator. It is best to cook only the
yolks of the eggs, then chill, and finally fold in the beaten
whites just before freezing. This method not only gives a
better texture but a greater volume to the finished product.
Refreshing and palatable sherbets may be frozen in the auto-
FROZEN DESSERTS 561
matic refrigerator, but they are likely to be granular even when
gelatin and beaten egg-whites are added.
Ice-creams and sherbets, and all other frozen desserts having
a custard or gelatin foundation should be very vigorously stirred
one hour after being placed in the refrigerator to freeze, and
several times subsequently at half to three-quarter-hour in-
tervals.
The addition of whipped cream does much to make the tex-
ture fine and smooth. Crushed fruit, marshmallows, grape nuts
and crumbled graham crackers will also make desirable textures.
Recipes which are especially good for refrigerator freezing
are: rennet-custard ice cream, maple-fruit ice cream, peach ice
cream No. 2, prune ice cream, raspberry ice cream, chocolate
ice crea 
