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JForeign  travel  reveals  the  glories  of  other  lands 
than  our  own^  —  the  achievetnents  and  merits  of 
other  peoples. 


History  casts  its  shadow  far  into  the  land  of  song, 

—  [Longfellow. 


OL^C^^-^-^s^^^l.^^^^  Ci^f^tx^  ^/y^yy'^^^^^'^^^ 


ilNG  IHB  SCOKe-IIISH: 


A  TOUR  IN  SEVEN  COUNTRIES, 


IN  IRELAND,  WALES,  ENGLAND,  SCOTLAND, 
FEANCE,  SWITZERLAND,  AND  ITALY; 


With  History  of  Dinsmoor  Family. 


A  Companion  Volume  to  "Eambles  in  Europe,"  etc. 


LEONAKD   ALLISON   MORRISON,  A.  M., 

OF    WINDHAM,    N.    H., 

Author  of  "  History  of  the  Morison  or  Morrison  Family,"  "  History  of 
Windham  in  New  Hampshire,"  and  "Ramhles  in  Europe;  with 
Historical  Facts  Relating  to  Scotch- American  Families, 
Gathered  in  "Scotland  and  in  the  North  of  Ireland."   • 


BOSTON,    MASS.: 

PUBLISHED    BY    DAMRELL    &    UPHAM, 

283  Washington  Stbeet. 

1891. 


PRI>TED  AT  THE  MAIL  OFFICE, 
LOWELL,  MASS. 


1132132 

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Wi\^oBt  ^tn  is  SS^arper  t^an  a  ITaittt, 

Wi\oBZ  §ic|)ic&£ment6  in  ^taxe 

^a&e  l^etn  Pore  (Illorious  t^an  ang  Conquests  in  JSRar, 

®^is  ^olnme 

|s  ^ffettionatflg  ^ebitateb. 


INTEODUCTIO:^. 


In  quick  succession  year  follows  year.  Some  travel, 
others  write,  while  still  others  read  of  long  journeyings. 
This  work  is  largely  a  narrative  of  personal  experience. 
It  is  written  because  I  love  to  write ;  to  preserve  historical 
mutter  which  would  otherwise  have  been  lost.  It  was  to 
speak  of  that  people  of  Scotch  blood,  the  Scotch-Irish, 
whom  I  so  much  admire,  who 

Dwelt  among  the  world's  advancing  host, 
Who  herald  forth  a  wider,  freer  day; 

it  was  written  to  recount  my  observations  while  among 
them,  —  to  give  valuable  facts  in  relation  to  them  and 
their  history. 

It  was  also  my  desire  to  speak  of  travel  in  the  romantic 
land  of  Scotland,  to  the  wind-swept  shores  of  Pentland 
Firth ;  of  scenes  in  England,  in  fair  Normandy,  among 
the  mountains  and  glaciers  of  Switzerland,  and  beneath 
the  sunny  skies,  over  rare  lakes,  and  in  famous  cities  of 
the  classic  land  of  Italy. 

The  historical  and  closing  chapter  has  been  a  develop- 
ment, a  gi'owth,  —  evolved,  from  a  few  historical  facts 
which  I  alone  possessed,  into  its  present  dimensions, 
whereby  all  rules  laid  down  by  eminent  authorities  have 
been,  without  compunction,  ruthlessly  violated,  in  order 
that  history  might  be  preserved,  placed  in  permanent 
form,  and  made  accessible  to  many  readers.  The  widely 
scattered  copies  of  this  work,  many  in  private  ownership, 
others  to  be  found  among  noted  collections  of  books,  in 
State  Historical  Libraries,  and  other  piablic  libraries  and 


6  INTBODUCTION. 

institutions,  will,  it  is  believed,  render  secure  against  loss 
by  fire  or  otherwise  the  information  it  contains.  It  was 
remembered,  and  acted  upon,  what  it  would  have  been 
well  for  the  world  if,  in  the  past,  possessors  of  valuable 
manuscripts  had  not  forgotten  that  no  information  is 
secure  until  it  is  printed  and  its  numerous  copies  dis- 
persed as  the  winds  scatter  the  autumnal  forest  leaves ; 
for  then,  though  some  may  be  destroyed,  others  are  avail- 
able to  the  interested  investigator. 

It  has  been  a  delight  to  review  the  scenes  of  foreign 
wanderings,  where  was  experienced  so  much  of  kindness, 
pleasure,  and  delight/  More  fully  conscious  thnn  any  of 
the  limitations  of  this  work,  it  is  given  to  the  public  with  ■ 
the  hope  that  others  may  from  its  perusal  derive  some 
profit  and  satisfaction. 

Windham,  N.  H.,  May  l,  1891. 

(P.  O.,  Canobie  Lake,  N.  H.) 


TABLE   OF   CONTENTS. 


PREFATORY.  —  Pages  1-15. 

Dedication.    Introduction.     Table  of  Contents. 

CHAPTER    I.  — Pages  15-25. 

THE    DEPARTURE. 

The  ship,  and  fellow-passengers,  15.  Days  of  brightness,  and 
religious  services  in  mid-ocean,  16.  At  Queenstown,  17.  In 
Dublin,  18.  A  visit  to  the  battle-field  of  the  Boyne  Water, 
18.  The  monument,  19.  A  Sabbath  in  Londonderry,  20. 
Eelics  of  the  Siege  of  1688-89,  21.  Early  homes  of  the  New 
Hampshire  Scotch-Irish,  21-25.    Familiar  names,  24. 

CHAPTER  n.  — Pages  25-36. 

AGHADOWEY   AND    SCOTCH    SETTLEMENTS. 

Aghadowey.  ^he  Presbyterian  Church  and  its  pastors  and 
history,  25-28.  Kev.  Thomas  Boyd,  and  Rev.  James  Mc- 
Gregor, 25.  Rev.  John  Elder,  Rev.  Samuel  Hamilton,  Rev. 
Samuel  Fullerton,  Rev.  Dr.  John  Brown,  Rev.  Alexander 
Wallace,  Rev.  J.  B.  Huston,  26.  Kev.  Gilbert  A.  Kennedy, 
and  ministers  and  people  of  familiar  Scotcli  names,  27.  Rev. 
W.  D.  Wallace,  of  Ramelton,  28.  The  associations  of  Ag- 
hadowey, with  the  daughter  settlement  of  Londonderry,  N.  H., 
28.  No  records,  28.  Account  of  the  emigration  to  London- 
derry, N.  H.,  found  in  a  paper  in  Ireland,  30-33.  The  linen 
trade,  33.  The  Allisons,  Andersons,  Morrisons,  Cochrans, 
and  Steeles,  35. 


8  TABLE   OF  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER    III.— Pages  36-50. 

THE    SCOTCH-IRISH — WHO   "WERE    THEY? 

They  were  people  of  Scotch  blood  dwelling  on  Irish  soil,  36. 
No  mixture  of  the  Scotch  with  native  Irish,  37.  Statements 
of  Macaulay,  38.  Their  Saxon  origin,  39.  Scotch  were 
Scotch  still,  40.  The  Lowland  Scotch  dialect,  41.  Eloquent 
language  of  Eev.  J.  S.  Macintosh,  D.  D.,  42-45.  The  Scotch 
in  Ulster  were  a  picked  class,  45.  The  Ulsterman  did  not 
mingle  with  the  Celt,  46.  Characteristics  of  the  race,  47. 
Love  for  the  Fatherland,  49. 

CHAPTER    IV.— Pages  50-55. 

MEETING   DESCENDANTS    OF    THE    SCOTCH    SETTLERS. 

Abraham  Sinclair,  and  Thomas  Sinclair,  50.  James  Andrews  at 
Glenwherry,  51.  Great  Orange  demonstration,  July  12,  52. 
Beautiful  homes  in  Belfast,  Ireland,  Eev.  Kobert  Andrew 
Phenix,  M.  A.,  53.  William  E.  Armstrong  and  son,  53.  At 
the  Four  Courts  Eecord  Office  in  Dublin,  54.  Leaving  Dublin 
for  Hollyhead,  Wales,  54. 

CHAPTER  V.  —  Pages  55-64. 

IN   WALES. 

Hollyhead,  55.  Home  of  Gladstone,  56.  Chester,  Liverpool, 
and  Buxton,  56.  Journey  to  Wales,  67.  At  St.  Clear's, 
and  the  suspicious  character,  58.  Sermon  in  the  Welsh 
tongue,  59.  St.  Clear's  and  Laugharue,  60.  Euins  of  Llan- 
stephen  Castle,  61.  Kidwelli  Castle,  Swansea,  Neath,  and 
Cardiff,  62.  The  Severn  Tunnel,  and  arrival  at  Bath,  England, 
63. 

CHAPTER  VI.  — Pages  64-81. 

IN   ENGLAND. 

The  Eoman  Baths,  in  Bath,  64.  Meeting  Hon.  Arthur  Liver- 
more,  64.   Beauties  of  Windsor  Castle,  65.   Henry  F.  Waters, 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS.  9 

65.  No  lists  of  American  Colonists,  G6.  Debate  in  the 
Rouse  of  Commons  on  the  Royal  Grants  Bill,  67.  British 
orators,  67.  The  royal  marriage,  68.  The  Queen,  69.  List- 
ening to  Canon  Farrar  and  Newman  Hall,  69.  Madame 
Tussaud  &  Sons'  Historical  Gallery,  70.  Wax  figures  of 
famous  Americans,  70.  Leaving  London,  at  Chiselhurst,  the 
home  of  Napoleon  III,  70.  At  Seven  Oaks,  Ightham,  and 
Benjamin  Harrison,  71.  The  Druidical  Stones,  and  Crom- 
well's Skull,  72.  Inspecting  an  ancient  English  home  at 
Yaldham,  73.  Sir  Mark  W.  Collet,  73.  Ightham  Moat,  73. 
Penshurst,  74-75.  At  Battle  Abbey,  75-76.  Battle  of  Hast- 
ings, 77.  Hastings  and  St.  Leonard's,  78.  Eye,  78.  Canter- 
bury Cathedral,  79. 

CHAPTER  VII.  —  Pages  81-94. 

GOIJfG    TO    THE    FAK    NORTH-LAND. 

Rochester,  and  Rochester  Castle,  81-82.  Chatham,  82.  An 
historical  hostelry  —  The  Mitre,  what  Dickens  says  of  it,  83. 
London  and  Chelmsford,  8-t.  Old  King  Cole,  and  Castle  of 
Colchester,  urns  and  ashes  of  the  Roman  dead,  86.  Ipswich 
and  Bury  St.  Edmunds,  86.  Parishes  of  Rattlesden,  Hitcham, 
Buxhall,  87.  Norwich,  and  its  Castle,  88.  Cambridge,  88. 
Huntington,  and  Ramsay,  89.  Queer  names  of  hotels,  89. 
Nottingham  and  its  Castle,  89-90.  At  Leeds,  Episcopal 
Church  at  Adcl,  91.  In  an  English  liome,  92.  Rowley,  Dur- 
ham, and  its  Castle,  Berwick-on-Tweed,  93. 

CHAPTER  VIII.  —  Pages  94-108. 

IN    MY    FATHERLAND. 

At  Dunbar,  Scotland.  Along  the  shore  of  the  North  Sea,  94. 
Robert  Bruce  Armstrong,  94.  Countrj^  seat  of  the  Earl  of 
Buchau,  95.  St.  Giles's  Church,  and  the  Forth  Bridge,  95. 
Going  northward,  96.  A  treeless  country,  and  arrival  at 
Thurso,  97.  A  visit  to  Ulbster  Castle,  98.  Old  family  por- 
traits, and  members  of  the  Sinclair  family,  99.  At  Watten, 
Rev.  Mr.   Gunu,   100.      Hector  McKay,   the  ride  to  Wick, 


10  TABLE    OF   COWTEIfTS. 

remains  of  Pictish  houses,  101.  In  Wick,  near  John  O'Groat's, 
Girnigoe  and  Sinclair  Castle,  and  Castle  of  Keiss,  102.  Old 
Man  of  Wick,  a  stronghold  of  the  family  of  Cheynes,  and  the 
Oliphants,  103.  George  Miller  Sutherland,  "Lead,  kindly 
light,"  104.  Leaving  the  dear  North-land,  105.  The  shooting 
season,  105.  The  full  blooming  heather,  106.  The  Pass  of 
Killiecrankie,  106.  Kev.  J.  D.  Fulton,  106.  The  South  Down 
Hills,  at  Newhaven,  and  departure  to  Dieppe,  Xormandy,  107. 

CHAPTER  IX.  — Pages  108-124. 

IN   NOEMANDT. 

Its  historic  associations,  108-109.  Dieppe,  109.  Rouen,  its 
cathedral  and  attractions,  110-111.  Dives,  and  Hotel  William 
the  Conqueror,  112.  European  market  days,  115.  At  Caen, 
116.  Eight  vanished  centuries,  117.  Death  of  the  Con- 
queror, 118.  William's  tomb,  119.  Burial  places  of  illustri- 
ous men,  119-120.  In  Bayeux,  the  Bayeux  Tapestry,  121-122. 
At  Rye,  123. 

CHAPTER    X.  — Pages  124-135. 

A   MOONLIGHT    RIDE. 

By  post  to  Bayeux,  121.  In  St.  Lo,  125.  The  Cotentin,  from 
which  came  many  of  the  followers  of  William,  126.  In  Eal- 
aise,  the  birthplace  of  the  Conqueror,  127.  Castle  of  Fal- 
aise,  127.  Robert  the  Devil,  128.  The  Tanner's  Daughter, 
129.  Statues  of  noted  ones,  129.  A  great  privilege,  130. 
In  Dreux,  The  Mortuary  Chapel  of  the  Bourbon  Family,  131. 
At  Vernon  and  Mantes,  133.    Farewell  to  Normandy,  134. 

CHAPTER    XI.  — Pages  135-141. 

DAYS   IN   PARIS. 

The  Exposition  of  1889,  135.  The  Republic  may  live,  136.  The 
Eiffel  Tower,  137.  View  of  Paris,  139.  From  Paris  to 
Geneva,  140. 


TABLE   OF  COIf^TENTS.  11 

CHAPTER  XII.  — Pages  141-148. 

CHAMOUNI. 

The  ride  to  Chamouui,  Ul.  Mont  Blanc,  U2.  A  visit  to  tlie 
Moutiiuvert,  the  Merde  Glace,  and  the  Mauvals  Pas,  142-145. 
A  niagnillcent  ride  from  Chamouui  to  Martigny,  145.  Inter- 
laken,  146.  In  the  St.  Gothard  Tunnel,  146.  Arrival  at 
Como,  Italy,  147. 

CHAPTER  XIIL— Pages  148-160. 

SUNNY   ITALY   AND    THE    ITALIAN    LAKES. 

Visit  to  Lakes  Como  aud  Lugano,  148-149.  Milan,  its  Cathe- 
dral aud  sights,  150.  The  journey  to  Venice,  151.  In  Venice, 
151.  Strange  sights,  152.  The  church  of  St.  Mark,  and  Pal- 
ace  of  the  Doges,  153.  Language  of  the  imagination,  154. 
Arrival  in  Florence,  165.  Soldiers  of  Garibaldi,  156.  Art 
Galleries,  157.  Famous  churches,  158.  Farewell  to  Florence, 
159. 

CHAPTER  XIV.  — Pages  160-172. 

EOME,    NAPLES,    AND    POMPEII. 

In  Eome.  Col.  C.  II.  Sheppard,  160.  Progressive  Italians,  161. 
The  Forum,  161.  Trajan's  Column,  the  Colosseum,  the  Tri- 
umphal  Arch  of  Constantine,  aud  the  Appiau  Way,  162.  St. 
Peter's  Church,  162.  The  Holy  Staircase,  and  the  image  of 
Virgin,  163. '  The  Baths  of  Caracalla,  164.  Galleries  of  art 
in  the  Vatican,  with  Museums,  164.  Across  the  Cam- 
pagna,  164.  Visit  to  the  catacombs  of  St.  Callistus,  165. 
Modern  Eome,  166.  Monastery  of  Monte  Cassino,  167.  In 
Naples,  and  in  Pompeii,  167-168.  Curious  sights,  169.  The 
houses  aud  streets  of  Pompeii,  170.     Blount  Vesuvius,  171. 

CHAPTER  XV.  — Pages  172-179. 

HOMEWARD    BOUND. 

Naples,  and  the  loveliness  of  its  Bay,  173.  liev.  E.  M.  McKee- 
ver,  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  at  Pisa,  174.    Genoa,  and  Turin, 


12  TABLE    OF   CONTENTS. 

175.  The  Mont  Cenis  Tuunel,  175.     All-night  ride  to  Paris, 

176.  From  Paris  to  London,  176.  Adieu  to  England,  177. 
The  vessel  aground,  178.  Arrival  in  a  pleasant  port.  The 
wanderer  had  come  "  to  his  own  again,"  178. 

CHAPTER  XVI.  — Pages  1-46. 

HISTORICAL. 

The  earliest  history  and  genealogy,  covering  nearly  three  hun- 
dred years,  from  about  1600  to  1891,  of  the  Dinsmoor-Dins- 
more  family,  of  Scotland,  Ireland,  and  America,  with  that  of 
many  of  their  descendants ;  and  additional  facts  relating  to  the 
sixteen  first  settlers  and  their  families  of  Londonderry,  New 
Hampshire,  who  emigrated  to  America  in  1719 ;  with  statis- 
tics concerning  the  McKean  and  Bell  families ;  and  a  poem, 
"  The  Heroes  of  the  Siege  of  Londonderry,  Ireland,  1688-89.' 
(See  index  for  this  chapter.) 


A  TKIBUTE  FEOM  THE  NEW  TO  THE  OLD. 

From  Canobie  Lake,  New  Hampshire,  to  Caunobie 
in  Scotland. 


CANOBIE    LAKE. 

BY  LEONARD  ALLISON  MORRISON. 

It  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  situated  partly  in 
Windham,  partly  in  Salem,  and  wholly  within  the  limits 
of  the  original  Scotch  settlement  of  Londonderry,  N.  H., 
which  was  founded  in  1719.  The  name  Canobie  is  taken 
from  Cannobie  in  Scotland,  near  the  English  border,  and 
once  the  home  of  famous  border  clans.  Through  that 
place  of  historic  interest  and  rare  beauty  flow  the 
murmuring  waters  of  the  River  Esk. 

From  the  old  Fatherland  Las  come  down  thy  fair  name, 
So  sweet  in  its  sound  and  so  ricli  in  its  fame ; 
The  Wizard  of  Scotia,  in  song  from  afar, 
Preserved  it  forever  in  "  Young  Lochinvar." 

"When  sweet  peace  rests  on  thee,  O  Canobie  Lalce, 
The  blue  of  the  skies  thy  clear  waters  take ; 
While  winds  soft  as  zephyr,  or  faint  summer  air, 
Blow  over  tliy  bosom  in  ecstacy  rare. 

Thy  billows,  breeze-swept  when  they  turn  to  the  sky, 
Are  glistening  with  brightness  of  Art's  rarest  dye ; 
The  beauties  of  cloudlet,  of  sky,  and  of  tree, 
Fair  gem  set  in  hillsides,  are  mirrored  in  thee. 

Oh,  gorgeous  and  beautiful  Canobie  Lake! 
In  splendor  of  sunshine,  thy  waves  softly  break  ; 
In  storm  they  may  foam,  and  in  rage  toss  on  high. 
To  thy  bosom  they  fall,  and  there  peacefully  lie. 


14  GANOBIE  LAKE. 


How  green  are  thy  borders,  sweet  Canobie  Lake, 
Whose  sleepy  waves  rise,  sway  sparkling,  and  break 
In  shimmering  sunshine  they  lash  the  rough  shore, 
In  shimmering  sun,  dying,  they  rave  no  more. 

In  splendor  of  sunset  at  close  of  the  day. 
In  glory  of  storm  'neath  the  wild  tempest's  sway. 
In  brightness  or  darkness,  thy  restless  waves  form 
A  glory  in  sunsliine,  a  glory  in  storm. 


CHAPTER    I. 

THE    DEPARTURE. 

Leaden  skies;  a  still,  stifled,  murky  atmos- 
phere, undisturbed  by  any  breeze — such  was 
the  afternoon  of  a  day  in  the  latter  part  of 
June,  1889,  when,  with  nearly  five  hundred 
and  fifty  saloon  passengers,  I  stood  on  the  deck 
of  the  gallant,  proud  steamer  City  of  New  York 
at  the  Inraan  Pier  in  New  York  Harbor,  bound 
for  Liverpool. 

The  hurried  greetings  and  partings  were  over  ' 
and  the  vast  throngs  promenaded  the  decks, 
each,  as  he  passed,  looking  at  the  groups  of  his 
fellow-passengers  to  see  if  perchance  a  familiar 
face  was  there ;  or,  with  that  curiosity  with 
which  one  almost  involuntarily  scrutinizes  the 
faces  of  his-  fellows,  seeking  by  the  sharp  intui- 
tive look  to  read  the  character  and  life-history 
as  shown  in  the  seamed  forehead,  the  glancing 
eye,  the  intelligent  words,  or  otherwise,  of 
those  about  him. 

Some  were  of  the  world  of  letters,  not  un- 
known to  fame,  whose  written  words  have 
brought  cheer  and  spiritual  healing  to  the 
troubled  hearts  of  many  thousands  of  readers 


16  IN    IIID-OCEAN. 

in  all  parts  of  the  English-speaking  world, — 
some  whose  faces  were  a  benediction,  and 
which  one  looked  upon  only  with  elevation  of 
soul  and  purifying  of  the  spirit.  Not  all  were 
of  this  exalted  and  elevating  type,  but  many 
belonged  to  "  the  great  unwashed  "  multitude. 

Acquaintances  were  quickly  made.  Days  of 
unclouded  brightness  succeeded  the  depressing 
one  of  departure  ;  the  ocean  was  as  quiet  as  an 
inland  sea,  and  how  beautiful  was  the  Sabbath ! 
Services  in  the  cabin,  largely  attended,  were 
conducted  by  Rev.  Mr.  Green,  of  Buffalo,  N.  Y. 
In  the  evening,  an  open-air  service  was  held 
*  on  the  deck  in  the  stern  of  the  ship.  We 
were  in  mid-ocean;  a  canvas  covering  was 
over  us,  shutting  from  our  sight  the  twinkling 
lights  in  God's  great  heaven  of  blue.  There 
were  the  never-ceasing  sounds  of  the  splashing 
waters,  the  foamy  billows  created  and  stirred 
by  the  ship  as  it  plowed  along,  and  the  frothy, 
fleecy,  glittering  sea,  with  its  phosphorescent 
glow  in  the  wake  of  the  vessel,  looking  as 
though  some  mighty  hand  had  strewn  the 
waters  with  purest  diamonds.  These  were  the 
attendant  surroundings ;  the  voices  of  prayer, 
of  song,  and  of  praise  mingled  with  the  sigh- 
ing winds  and  the  moans  of  the  seething  sea. 
It  was  grand,  romantic,  beautiful! 


AT   QVEENSTOWN.  Vj 

Seven  days  of  rest,  quiet,  and  recreation, 
which  passed  quickly,  brought  us  into  the 
familiar  Harbor  of  Queenstown,  where  many 
of  the  passengers  alighted,  for  a  hurried  look 
at  the  city,  at  Blarney  Castle,  the  Lakes  of 
Killarney,  and  a  hasty  tour  of  the  Emerald 
Isle,  and  I  was  among  them.  We  landed  on 
the  4th  of  July ;  and  as  the  tugboat  bore 
us  away,  the  fifteen  hundred  people  on  the 
ship,  lining  its  every  deck  and  great  numbers 
of  them  waving  American  flags,  bade  us  adieu. 

It  was  my  purpose  to  pass  hurriedly  over 
this  familiar  ground,  so  as  to  reach  the  Scotch 
settlements  in  the  North  of  Ireland.  About 
Queenstown,  everything  gave  evidence  of 
abundant  crops  and  increased  prosperity.  The 
crop  of  hay  was  enormous,  and  vast  and  nu- 
merous stacks -ornamented  the  fields  and  gave 
evidence  of  a  land  of  plenty.  A  jaunting-car 
was  procureti,  and  with  three  pleasant  compan- 
ions, fellow  travellers  and  passengers,  we  were 
quickly  whirled  through  the  outlying  district, 
visiting  places  of  note  and  some  of  the  habi- 
tations of  the  common  people.  A  native 
Irishman,  witty,  and  partially  intoxicated,  was 
the  driver,  who  said  it  was  well  to  "  have  as 
good  a  time  as  we  can,  and  die  when  we 
must ! " 


18  BEAUTIES    OF    THE  BIVEB   LEE. 

The  River  Lee  will  rival  in  its  surroundings 
the  beauties  of  the  Hudson  or  the  Rhine. 
Neither  are  more  beautiful  than  was  this  that 
summer  day,  toward  evening,  as  we  went  up 
to  Cork  over  its  silvery  surface.  The  green- 
ness and  density  of  the  foliage  of  the  trees  in 
all  the  surrounding  country  and  on  the  river's 
sides,  the  palatial  and  attractive  homes  on  the 
sloping  hills  among  shadowing  and  surrounding 
trees,  were  a  perpetual  delight.  Only  a  night 
and  day  were  spent  in  Cork  and  its  surround- 
ings. 

At  Dublin  I  tarried  at  one  of  the  finest 
hotels,  —  kept  by  an  Englishman,  the  bills  of 
fare  were  printed  in  French,  and  the  waiters 
were  Germans.  Thus  oftentimes  has  the 
native  Celtic-Irishman  become  a  nonentity  in 
his  native  land,  and  those  of  foreign  birth  and 
blood  push  to  the  foreground. 

On  leaving  Dublin,  my  journey  took  me 
to  Drogheda,  and  thence  by  jaunting-car  I 
reached  the  battle-field  of  the  Boyne  Water. 
A  high  granite  monument  on  a  huge  ledge  of 
rock  marks  the  place  where  the  celebrated 
battle  was  fought,  July  1,  1690,  between  the 
forces  of  William,  Prince  of  Orange,  and  those 
of  James  II.  The  obelisk  marks  the  spot  where 
King  William  commenced  the  attack  and  where 


BATTLE   OF   THE  BOYNE.  19 

Scliomberg  fell.     It  is  150  feet  in  height,  and 
bears  this  inscription  :  — 

Sacred  to  the  glorious  memory  of 

King  William  the  Third, 

who,  on  the  1st  of  July,  1690,  jjassed  the 

river  near  this  place  to  attack 

James  the  Second  at  the  head  of  a  Popish  array, 

advantageously  posted  on  the  south  of  it, 

and  did  on  that  day,  by  a  single  battle, 

secure  to  us  and  to  our  posterity, 

our  liberty,  laws,  and  religion. 

In  consequence  of  this  action  James 

the  Second  left  this  kingdom 

and  fled  to  France. 

This  meml  of  our  deliverance  was  erected 
in  the  9th  year  of  the  reign  of  King  George 
the  Second,  the  first  stone  being  laid  by 
Lionel  Sackville,  Duke  of  Dorset,  Lord 
Lieutenant  of  the  Kingdom  of  L-eland. 
1736, 


"With  the  sweet  enchantment  of  the  past, 
The  15reast  of  age  is  fervid  to  the  last. 

—  Goethe. 

This  was  a  place  of  intense  interest  to  me, 
and  intimately  connected  historically  with  the 
"  Siege  of  Derry,"  which  my  ancestors  endured 
just  previous  to  this  battle,  and  also  with  other 
famous  scenes  and  exploits  in  which  many  of 
the  first  Scotch  residents  of  Londonderry,  N.  H., 
or  their  relatives,  had  participated.      Bathing 


20  AT  LONDONDEBBY,  IBELAWD. 

my  hands  in  the  "sacred  tide"  of  the  Boyne 
Water,  I  returned  to  Drogheda,  an  uninterest- 
ing town  of  about  fifteen  thousand  people. 
My  journey  was  continued  through  a  locality 
of  much  beauty,  abounding  with  historic  asso- 
ciations of  great  interest  to  Scotch-Americans, 
whose  ancestors  for  a  generation  or  so  found  a 
halting-place  and  a  home  in  the  Emerald  Isle. 

The  Sabbath  was  spent  in  Londonderrj^,  and 
services  were  attended  in  its  noted  CathedraL 
The  city  was  familiar  to  me,  and  has  once  before 
been  described.*  The  day  was  simply  perfect. 
An  hour  or  two  were  spent  upon  the  walls  of  the 
city,  and  it  was  a  singular  and  thrilling  coinci- 
dence for  me  to  remember,  as  I  gazed  upon  the 
streets,  the  Cathedral,  the  walls,  the  Kiver 
Foyle,  and  the  hills  beyond,  that  at  that  very 
July  day  and  hour,  just  two  hundred  years  be- 
'fore,  my  ancestors  and  relatives,  with  their 
friends  and  kindred,  were  within  the  city  in 
the  direst  extremity,  enduring  the  horrors  of 
starvation ;  that  they  walked  those  streets,, 
looked  forth  with  famished  eyes  upon  the  same 
Cathedral,  the  same  walls,  the  same  river  and 
surrounding  hills,  and  were  waiting  with  un- 
speakable longing  for  succor  to  come,  which 
came  at  last ! 

*  See  "  Kambles  in  Europe,"  etc.,  pp.  53-73. 


RELICS    OF   THE   SIEGE.  21 

Many  relics  of  "  the  Siege "  were  seen  the 
following  day  in  an  "  Old  Curiosity  Shop," 
which  for  variety  and  the  heterogeneous  char- 
acter of  its  contents  would  rival  any  ever 
described  by  the  great  English  novelist.  After 
inspecting  various  libraries  and  interview- 
ing local  antiquarians,  as  my  purpose  was 
to  obtain  historical  data,  I  left  Londonderry,  to 
visit  places  in  the  counties  of  Londonderry 
and  Antrim,  which  had  been  the  homes  of  early 
settlers  of  New  Hampshire  of  Scotch  blood. 
Among  them  was  Coleraine,  which  was  the 
place  of  departure,  and  is  said  to  have  been 
the  home  of  Nathaniel  Holmes  and  family, 
ancestors  of  many  of  the  Holmeses  of  New 
Hampshire.  Among  his  descendants  is  Hon. 
Nathaniel  Holmes,  of  Cambridge,  Mass.,  a 
distinguished  jurist,  once  a  Judge  of  the 
Supreme  Court  of  Missouri,  and  later  he  filled 
the  Royal  Professorship  of  Law  in  Harvard 
University,  Cambridge,  Mass. 

It  was  the  favorable  report  of  a  young  man 
named  Holmes,  son  of  a  Presbyterian  minister 
of  this  locality,  which  had  a  strong  influence 
Avith  Rev.  James  McGregor,  and  a  portion  of 
his  congregation,  at  Aghadowey;  Rev.  Mr. 
Boyd,  and  a  portion  of  his  congregation,  at 
Macasky,  three  miles  from  Coleraine ;  and  Rev^ 


22  IN  BALLYMONET. 

Mr.  Cornwell,  and  a  part  of  his  people,  in  deter- 
mining on  a  removal  to  America.*  Numerous 
families  emigrated  from  Coleraine  and  vicinity 
to  the  new  settlement  in  New  Hampshire. 

Leaving  that  place,  a  short  ride  by  rail 
brought  me  to  Ballymoney,  County  of  Antrim, 
a  thriving  market  town  of  some  three  thousand 
inhabitants.  Its  streets  are  narrow  and  not 
agreeable,  and  its  general  appearance  is  not 
particularly  attractive.  Yet  from  this  little 
town  have  gone  forth  men  and  women,  of 
Scotch  blood  and  descent,  whose  influence  in 
the  new  settlements  of  the  United  States  has 
been  of  the  most  beneficial  character,  and 
whose  descendants  have  filled  the  highest  posi- 
tions of  honor  and  trust  in  their  several  States, 
and  have  served  in  the  House  of  Representa- 
tives and  Senate  of  the  United  States  at 
Washington. 

Among  those  emigrants  was  John  McKeen, 
son  of  Justice  James  McKeen.  He  was  born 
in  Ballymoney,  County  of  Antrim,  Ireland, 
April  13,  1714  ;  emigrated  with  his  father  to 
Londonderry,  N.  H.,  in  1719  ;  was  an  elder  in 
the  church  and  a  member  of  the   Legislature. 

*  "  History  of  Londonderry,  N.  H.,"  pp.  35,  36.  In  connection  witli  this, 
see  pp.  52,  63,  72,  73,  75-80,  of  "  Eambles  in  Europe,  witli  Historical 
Facts  Eelating  to  Scotcli-American  Families,"  by  Leonard  Allison 
Morrison.    Published  in  1887,  by  Cupples,  Upham  &  Co.,  Boston,  Mass. 


ITIS  PROMINENT  EMIGRANT  FAMILIES.    23 

He  married  his  cousin,  Mary  McKeen,  and  was 
the  father  of  Judge  Levi  McKeen,  of  Fishkill 
Landing,  Dutchess  County,  N.  Y.,  and  of  Rev. 
Joseph  McKeen,  D.  D.,  the  first  President  of 
Bowdoin  College,  Maine.  The  collateral 
branches  of  this  family  are  widely  scattered, 
some  living  in  Pennsylvania,  where  persons  of 
the  name  have  been  very  prominent  in  the 
history  of  the  State  and  in  the  Congress  of  the 
United  States. 

In  this  parish  was  probably  born  John  Bell, 
the  ancestor  of  the  family  of  that  name  in 
New  Hampshire,  which  has  produced  eminent 
men.  He  married  Elizabeth,  sister  of  Col. 
Andrew  Todd,  and  they  were  children  of 
James  and  Rachel  (Nelson)  Todd,  of  Scotland, 
but  who  had  settled  in  or  near  Ballymoney, 
Ireland,  with  others  of  their  Scotch  country- 
men and  countrywomen.  In  this  family  of 
Bells,  three  have  been  Governors  of  New 
Hampshire,  three  have  been  members  of 
the  United  States  Senate,  one  a  member  of  the 
national  House  of  Representatives,  and  two 
have  been  members  of  the  highest  judicial  tri- 
bunal of  the  State. 

The  Dinsmoors  of  New  Hampshire  are 
descended  from  John  Dinsmoor,  the  son  of  a 
Scotchman  who  lived  in  Ballymoney.  (See 
concluding  Historical  Chapter.) 


24  THE   MOORLAND    TOWN. 

As  I  wandered  through  the  narrow  streets  of 
the  little  moorland  town  of  Ballymoney,  I  saw 
the  familiar  Scotch  names  of  John  Cochrane, 
Andrew^Todd,  and  Thomas  Wallace, —  the  same 
surnames  and  Christian  names  as  those  in  the 
early  settlement  of  Londonderry,  N.  H.  There 
were  Gregory  Morrison,  W.  J.  McGaw,  Pinker- 
ton,  Patterson,  and  Jamieson.  The  Scotch 
family  of  Macdonald  in  former  days  held  large 
tracts  of  land  there,  and  do  so  at  the  present 
time.  These  Scotch  names  are  very  familiar 
ones  in  many  Scotch  settlements  in  America. 

Leaving  this  town,  by  mail-car,  I  was  con- 
veyed to  Aghadowey.  The  fine  road  was  lined 
by  walls  or  scraggly  hawthorn  hedges.  The 
country  is  gently  swelling  or  undulating,  pro- 
ductive and  well  cultivated.  Many  of  the 
fields  are  surrounded  by  trees,  which  make 
the  landscape  very  attractive.  The  cottages 
of  the  people  in  the  country  districts  were  of 
stone,  and  unpretentious.  I  met  Rev.  J.  B. 
Huston,  the  pastor  of  the  Presbyterian  Church, 
but  he  was  not  particularly  familiar  with  local 
history.  He  was  an  agreeable  gentleman,  and 
a  few  months  later,  in  February,  1890,  he  passed 
away  from  earth  and  the  people  whom  he  had 
served  so  faithfully. 


CHAPTER    II. 

AGHADOWEY   AND    SCOTCH    SETTLE:\fENTS. 

This  Presbyterian  Church  has  an  interesting 
history.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  Presby- 
tery of  which  it  is  a  member,  and  has  the 
largest  country  congregation  in  the  whole 
Assembly,  with  a  seating  accommodation  for 
one  thousand  worshippers.  Connected  with  it 
are  two  fine  schoolhouses,  and  a  handsome  and 
commodious  manse.  The  church  is  attended 
by  a  large  and  influential  congregation.  Its 
organization  is  ancient,  being  founded  the  third 
in  the  Presbytery  after  the  settlement  of  that 
part  of  Ireland  by  the  Scotch.  The  first 
minister  was  Rev.  Thomas  Boyd,  who  was 
deposed  in  1661  for  Non-conformity,  and  was 
ordered  to-  be  tried  by  the  House  of  Lords  in 
1662.  He,  however,  served  his  people  longer ; 
was  in  Aghadowey  in  1671-72,  and  during  the 
"Siege  of  Derry,''  in  1688-89,  stated  from  the 
pulpit  that  the  people  ought  to  go  to  Derry. 
He  went  himself ;  was  through  the  siege,  re- 
turned after  its  close,  and  died  while  in  charge 
of  this  church  in  1699.  Rev.  James  McGregor 
was  ordained  June  25,  1701,  was  the  faithful 


26  MINISTEBS    OF  AGHADOWET. 

pastor  until  1718,  when  he  resigned,  and  he 
and  many  of  his  people  emigrated  to  America. 
In  April,  1719,  they  settled  in  Londonderry, 
N.  H.,  where  he  lived  until  his  death. 

His  successor,  Rev.  John  Elder,  was  ordained 
May  7,  1723,  and  died  Sept.  24,  1779,  in  the 
fifty-sixth  year  of  his  ministry  and  the  eighty- 
seventh  year  of  his  age.  Rev.  Samuel  Hamilton, 
the  fourth  minister,  was  ordained  in  1773,  and 
died  July  18,  1788.  His  successor  was  Samuel 
Fullerton,  ordained  December,  1790,  and  died 
Jan.  1,  1813.  His  son,  Dr.  George  Fullerton, 
went  to  Brisbane,  Australia ;  rose  to  the  high- 
est eminence,  and  was  a  member  of  the  upper 
House  of  Parliament  there.  The  sixth  minis- 
ter was  Rev.  Dr.  John  Brown,  ordained  in 
1813,  and  in  1839  received  the  degree  of  D.  D. 
from  the  University  of  Edinburgh,  —  a  man  of 
marked  and  distinguished  powers,  was  a  minis- 
ter for  sixty  years,  retired  in  1872,  an(J  died 
March  27,  1873.  Rev.  Alexander  Wallace  was 
his  successor,  ordained  May  6,  1873,  and  was 
"  cut  down  before  the  fight  had  well  begun, 
like  a  flower  nipped  by  early  frosts."  He  died 
July  14,  1874.  He  was  succeeded  by  my 
amiable  acquaintance.  Rev.  J.  B.  Huston,  who 
was  installed  Dec.  22,  1874,  and  died,  as  before 
stated,  in  February,  1890.    Eight  ministers  had 


FAMILIAR   SCOTCH   NAMES.  27 

served  that  church  for  231  years,  an  average 
of  a  fraction  over  twenty-nine  years  each,  which 
speaks  volumes  for  the  fixedness  of  purpose 
and  steadfastness  of  those  sturdy  parishioners 
of  Scotch  blood  and  Presbyterian  faith. 

The  ninth  minister  installed  over  that 
church  was  Rev.  Gilbert  Alexander  Kennedy, 
and  the  exercises  took  place  on  Nov.  18, 
1890.  He  was  from  Garland ;  and  his  ancestor 
five  generations  removed,  Rev.  Thomas  Ken- 
ned}^, was  ejected  from  the  church  at  Garland 
on  the  Restoration  of  the  Stuarts,  being  a  min- 
ister for  sixty-eight  years.  To  show  the  dis- 
tinctively Scotch  character  of  the  community 
after  a  residence  in  the  Emerald  Isle  for  some 
two  and  a  half  centuries,  note  the  names  of 
clergymen  who  officiated  at  the  installation 
exercises  and  others  who  were  present:  Rev. 
Jonathan  Simpson,  Rev.  R.  Wallace,  Rev.  D. 
Aiken,  Rey.  James  Smyth,  Rev.  W.  M.  McCay, 
Rev.  R.  Montgomery,  Rev.  W.  D.  Wallace. 
Among  others  present :  Dr.  Morrison,  Dr.  Goch- 
ran,  Dr.  Taylor,  William  Ranken,  R.  Ranken, 
M.  Macaulay,  D.  Anderson,  James  Gameron, 
Robert  Anderson,  Hugh  Stewart,  Robert  Mc- 
Allister, W.  M.  Mclntyre,  W.  Morrison,  William 
McNeill,  Alexander  Perry,  John  Kerr,  Robert 
Wilson  and  other  of  distinctively  Scotch  names. 


28  INTIMATE  ASSOGIATIOHS. 

As  showing  the  very  high  state  of  moral- 
ity in  the  Presbyterian  denomination,  Rev. 
W.  D.  Wallace,  of  Ramelton,  said  "  that  the 
members  of  the  Presbyterian  Church  did  not 
lend  themselves  to  vices,  expensive  or  other- 
wise. Statistics  of  public  institutions  over 
the  country  would  bear  out  that  statement. 
Take,  for  instance,  Letterkenny  Asylum.  There 
are  in  it  325  Roman  Catholics,  36  Episcopa- 
lians, and  30  Presbyterians.  It  was  high 
testimony  to  their  church  that  so  few  of  their 
members  found  their  way  into  jails,  poor- 
houses,  and  other  institutions." 

This  place  is  intimately  associated,  and  its 
history  eternally  linked,  with  that  of  its  daugh- 
ter, the  famous  Scotch  settlement  of  London- 
derry, N.  H.  Thither  went  numbers  of  its 
people,  bearing  the  same  family  names  as 
those  mentioned.  It  is  the  old  home  of  many 
of  the  sixteen  first  settlers  of  Londonderry, 
N.  H.,  and  of  their  families.  It  is  the  place 
from  which  emigrated  Rev.  James  McGregor, 
and  members  of  his  parish,  to  Londonderry, 
N.  H.,  in  1719. 

No  family  records  exist,  either  in  Aghadowey 
or  Dublin,  relating  to  the  place  earlier  than 
1805,  but  there  are  documents  which  tell  some- 
thing of  the  history  of  this  town  or  parish. 


TRENCH   HILL.  29 

The  Episcopal  Church  stands  on  or  near  a 
gentle  swell  of  land,  called  "  Trench  Hill,"  and 
about  it,  following  the  ancient  custora,  is  the 
cemeter}'',  with  many  familiar  names  on  the 
memorial  tablets.  In  1641  a  battle  was  fought 
at  Trench  Hill  between  the  Irish  troops  and 
the  forces  at  Aghadowey  House.  Colonel  Blair, 
who  commanded  the  latter  forces,  caused 
trenches  to  be  made  (hence  the  name),  in  which 
were  concealed  some  musketeers,  who  remained 
quiet  until  the  near  approach  of  the  Irish, 
when  a  volley  from  them  drove  back  their 
antagonists.  It  is  said  that  no  battles  were 
fought  there  in  the  war  of  William,  Prince  of 
Orange  (1688-89);  but  we  do  know  that  the 
inhabitants  of  that  place  and  the  surrounding 
country  were  gathered  together  by  the  in- 
human order  of  Gen.  Conrad  de  Rosen,  were 
forced  beneath  the  walls  of  Londonderry, 
exposed  to  ^ the  missiles  of  both  armies,  and 
finally  were  admitted  into  the  city,  among 
them  being  some  of  the  early  settlers  of  Lon- 
donderry, N.  H. 

A  recent  writer  says :  "  It  is  probable  that 
the  greater  part  of  the  Protestant  population 
of  Aghadowey  took  refuge  in  Derry,  among 
whom  was  the  Rev.  Thomas  Boyd,  first  min- 
ister   of     the    Presbyterian    congregation    of 


30        THE  SEPTEMBEB  MOBNING  IN  1718. 

Aghadowey,  and  who  returned  to  his  duties 
after  that  memorable  siege  had  been  raised." 

In  relation  to  the  emigration,  a  generation 
later,  to  the  New  World,  he  says  :  — 

"  On  a  certain  September  morning,  in  the 
year  1718,  a  cavalcade,  in  which  were  women 
and  children,  whose  dress  and  bearing  bespoke 
the  farming  class,  might  have  been  seen  leaving 
Aghadowey  by  the  Derry  road.  In  the  caval- 
cade were  a  number  of  the  old-fashioned  wheel- 
cars,  with  their  lov/,  solid  wheels  and  broad 
bottoms,  upon  which  were  piled  provisions, 
wearing  apparel,  and  household  effects.  Accom- 
panying the  procession,  and  acting  as  guide, 
philosopher,  and  friend,  was  a  clergyman  in  the 
prime  of  life,  and  dressed  in  the  simple  garb  of 
the  Presbyterian  ministers  of  that  period.  The 
clergyman  w^as  accompanied  by  his  son,  a  boy 
of  eight  summers,  whose  name  is  now  accorded 
an  honored  place  in  the  national  biography  of 
the  Great  Republic  of  the  West.  As  the  cav- 
alcade wends  its  way  along  the  road,  the  people 
are  ever  and  anon  casting  regretful  looks  at 
the  waving  fields  of  golden  corn,  the  green 
valleys,  and  the  wooded  hills,  now  assuming  an 
autumnal  brown,  of  their  native  parish. 

"  The  cavalcade  is  a  band  of  emigrants,  of 
about  one   hundred   families,  on   their  Avay  to 


EMIGRATION  TO  NEW  HAMPSHIRE.       31 

Deny,  there  to  embark  for  the  Western  World. 
The  clergyman  is  Rev.  James  McGregor,  second 
minister  of  the  Presbyterian  congregation  of 
Aghadowey,  to  which  all  the  families  belonged, 
and  who  accompanied  them  to  America.  The 
reasons  which  induced  these  people  to  leave 
their  native  land  and  undertake  a  voyage 
across  the  Atlantic,  which  in  those  days  was 
tedious  and  full  of  hardships,  and  to  face  the 
uncertain  prospects  of  new  settlers,  were  partly 
religious  and  partly  agrarian.  Being  Presby- 
terians, they  were  subjected  to  the  unjust  and 
iusulting  provisions  of  the  Test  Act,  under 
which  it  was  penal  for  a  person  of  their  per- 
suasion to  teach  a  school  or  to  hold  the 
humblest  office  in  the  State.  Then  again,  at 
the  time  of  the  Revolution,  when  a  consider- 
able part  of  the  country  lay  waste,  and  when 
the  whole  framework  of  society  was  shattered, 
land  had  been  let  on  lease  at  very  low  rents 
to  Presbyterian  tenants.  About  1717-1718 
these  leases  began  to  fall  in,  and  the  rents 
were  usually  doubled  and  frequently  tripled. 
Hence  farmers  became  discouraged,  and  a  num- 
ber of  them  belonging  to  Aghadowey  formed 
the  design  of  emigrating  to  America,  where 
they  would  be  able  to  reap  the  fruits  of  their 


32  THEY  DISJEMBABKED  IN  1718. 

own  industry.     They  landed  at  Boston  on  the 
14th  of  October,  1718. 

There  were  raen  with  hoary  hair 

Amid  that  pilgrim  band ; 
Why  had  they  come  to  wither  there, 

Away  from  their  childhood's  land? 

There  was  woman's  fearless  eye. 

Lit  by  her  deep  love's  truth ; 
There  was  manhood's  brow  serenely  high. 

And  the  fiery  heart  of  youth. 

On  landing  at  Boston,  they  proceeded  to 
the  State  of  New  Hampshke,  where  they 
founded  a  town,  which  they  called  London- 
derry, in  patriotic  recollection  of  the  county 
they  had  left.  Here,  too,  they  organized  the 
first  Presbyterian  Church  in  New  England,  of 
which  Mr.  McGregor  assumed  the  pastoral 
charge,  without  ordination.  Mr.  McGregor 
died  in  1729,  and,  it  may  be  interesting  to  add, 
was  succeeded  by  the  Rev.  Matthew  Clark, 
minister  of  Kilrea  Presbyterian  congregation 
from  1697  to  1729,  when,  though  about  seventy 
years  of  age,  he  emigrated  to  America." 

In  relation  to  the  business  interests  there  is 
the  following,  making  mention  of  some  family 
names  familiar  in  the  Scotch-American  settle- 
ments: "About  the  beginning  of  the  eigh- 
teenth century  the  Irish  linen  trade  began  to 


THE  LINEN  TBABE.  33 

attract  attention,  not,  however,  as  is  popularly 
supposed,  on  account  of  the  fostering  care  it 
had  received  from  the  English  Parliament. 
'King  William'  had  indeed,  when  proposing,  in 
1699,  the  destruction  of  the  woollen  manu- 
facture of  Ireland,  promised  to  encourage  the 
linen  industry  as  compensation.  But  the 
promise  was  not  kept,  and  no  encouragement 
was  given  to  the  Irish  linen  trade  till  1705, 
when,  at  the  urgent  petition  of  the  Irish 
Parliament,  the  Irish  were  allowed  to  export 
their  white  and  brown  linens,  but  those  only, 
to  the  British  Colonies.  In  1743,  when  the 
country  had  sunk  to  a  position  of  appalling 
wretchedness,  the  English  Parliament  granted 
bounties  for  the  encouragement  of  the  linen 
manufacture.  An  impetus  was  thus  given  to 
the  linen  trade,  and  bleach-greens  sprang  up 
all  over  Ulster,  Aghadowey  leading  the  way  in 
this  part  of  the  province.  The  parish  is  inter- 
sected by  three  streams,  whose  waters  are 
unsurpassed  for  purity,  softness,  and  abun- 
dance, and  these  appear  to  have  attracted  the 
attention  of  some  enterprising  men  engaged  in 
the  linen  trade. 

"Of  these,  the  first  to  settle  here  with  a  view 
to  the  introduction  of  that  trade  was  Mr.  John 
Orr,  who,  in   1744,  established  a  bleach-green 


34  BUSII^USS  INTERESTS. 

in  the  townland  of  Ballybrittan  for  the  bleach- 
ing of  7-8  and  4-4  linens.  This  was  the  first 
bleach-green  known  anywhere  in  this  part  of 
the  country.  Mr.  Orr's  example  was  followed 
by  Mr.  John  Blair,  who,  in  the  same  year, 
established  another  bleach-green  in  the  town- 
land  of  Ballydevitt.  To  these  two  gentle- 
men, therefore,  belong  the  honor  of  the  intro- 
duction of  the  linen  trade  into  x\ghadowey,  an 
industry  which  has  largely  contributed  in  the 
past  to  the  prosperity  of  the  parish,  and  by 
which  it  has  obtained  its  celebrity.  Messrs. 
Blair  and  Orr  having  succeeded  in  establishing 
a  lucrative  trade,  bleach-greens  sprang  up  all 
over  the  parish,  until,  at  one  period,  it  con- 
tained no  less  than  thirteen,  ten  of  which  were 
in  full  operation.  These  were  situated  in  the 
townlands  of  Mullaghmore,  Gortin,  Ruskey, 
Keeley,  Collins,  Moneycarrie,  Rushbrook,  and 
White  Hill,  and  the  two  already  mentioned  in 
Ballybrittan  and  Ballydevitt.  Of  all  this  ^long 
array'  one  only  is  in  operation  at  present,  that 
established  in  Ballydevitt  in  1744.  This 
venerable  bleach-green,  still  a  scene  of  indus- 
trial activity,  is  the  sole  representative  of  an 
industry  which  extended  over  the  whole  parish, 
and  with  the  introduction  of  which  the  halcyon 
days  for  Aghadowey  commenced. 


OLD  FAMILIES  STILL    THEME.  35 

"Previously  to  1828  no  wheat  was  grown  in 
the  parish,  but  its  introduction  by  the  late  Mr. 
James  Hemphill  was  followed  by  complete 
success." 

In  this  place  are  still  the  Allisons,  Ander- 
sons, Morrisons,  Cochrans,  Steeles,  and  many 
others,  being  familiar  family  names,  some  of 
whose  relatives  upon  this  side  of  the  heaving 
ocean  have  attained  high  positions  of  trust, 
honor,  and  emolument. 

!l.j.o'-3.1.3J^ 


CHAPTER     III. 

THE   SCOTCH-IRISH  — WHO    WERE   THEY? 

Many  centuries  had  passed  in  the  building 
of  the  Scottish  as  in  the  building  of  the  Eng- 
lish nation ;  in  each,  different  peoples  helped  to 
make  the  completed  nation,  and  in  blood  they 
were  substantially  the  same.  The  blending  of 
these  races  in  Scotland,  and  the  sharp  stamp- 
ing of  religious  and  political  ideas,  had 
developed  and  made  the  Scotch  race  a  distinc- 
tive and  sharply  defined  people ;  in  their  intel- 
lectual, mental,  and  moral  characteristics  differ- 
ent from  all  others  a  century  before  and  as 
we  find  them  at  the  time  of  their  settlement 
in  the  Emerald  Isle.  Thus  they  have  still 
remained  since  their  settlement  in  Ireland. 
They  were  Scotch  in  all  their  characteristics, 
though  dwelling  upon  Irish  soil.  This  fact  has 
given  rise  to  the  supposition  by  some  and  the 
assertion  by  others  —  to  whom  the  wish  was 
father  to  the  statement  —  that  in  the  veins  of 
the  Scotch-Irish  flowed  commingled  the  blood 
of  the  stalwart  Scotch  and  the  blood  of  the 
Celtic-Irish.     Never  was  mistake  greater. 


NO  MIXING  OF   THE  SCOTCH-IRISH.       37 

Hon.  Charles  H.  Bell,  Ex-Governor  of  New 
Hampshire,  in  his  eloquent  address  at  the  cel- 
ebration of  the  150th  anniversary  of  the  settle- 
ment of  the  Londonderry  (N.  H.)  Colony,  in 
1869,  said  of  the  term  "Scotch-Irish":  "It  is 
not  inappropriate,  as  descriptive  of  their  origin 
and  prior  abode,  though  it  has  given  rise  to  not 
a  little  misapprehension.  It  has  been  supposed 
by  some  writers  that  the  name  denotes  a  mixed 
nationality  of  Scotch  and  Irish  descent ;  and  in 
order  to  adapt  the  facts  to  their  theory,  they 
have  fancied  that  they  could  detect  in  the 
Londonderry  settlers  the  traits  derived  from 
each  ancestry.  But  history  fails  to  bear  out 
the  ingenious  hypothesis ;  for  it  is  certain  that 
there  was  no  mixture  of  blood  in  the  little 
band  who  cast  their  fortunes  here ;  they  were 
of  Scottish  lineage,  pure  and  simple." 

The  Scotch-Irish  were  people  of  Scottish 
lineage  who  dwelt  upon  Irish  soil. 

The  locality  about  Coleraine,  Aghadowey, 
and  Crockendolge  is  inhabited  by  people  almost 
wholly  of  Scotch  origin.  They  are  the  "Scotch- 
Irish,"  i.  e.  Scotch  people  living  upon  or  born 
upon  Irish  soil,  but  not  mixed  with  the  native 
people.  Their  ancestors,  some  of  them,  came 
to  Ireland  nearly  two  hundred  and  fifty  years 
ago.    They  came  in  a  body,  they  kept  in  a  body, 


38  STATEMENTS    OF  MACAULAT. 

and  they  remain  in  a  body,  or  class  by  them- 
selves, largely  to-day.  The  Scotch  are  called 
clannish,  and  were  clannish ;  and  the  Scotch 
who  settled  in  Ireland,  and  their  descendants, 
were  clannish.  They  stuck  together,  and  kept 
aloof  from  the  native  Celtic-Irish.  They  were 
sundered  by  the  sharp  dividing  lines  of  reli- 
gious faith  and  by  keen  differences  of  race. 

Macaulay  says  :  "  They  sprang  from  differ- 
ent stocks.  They  spoke  different  languages. 
They  had  different  national  characters,  as 
strongly  opposed  as  any  two  national  characters 
in  Europe.  They  were  in  widely  different 
stages  of  civilization.  Between  two  such 
populations  there  could  be  little  sympathy, 
and  centuries  of  calamities  and  wrongs  had 
generated  a  strong  antipathy.  The  relation  in 
which  the  minority  stood  to  the  majority 
resembled  the  relation  in  which  the  followers 
of  William  the  Conqueror  stood  to  the  Saxon 
churls,  or  the  relation  in  which  the  followers 
of  Cortez  stood  to  the  Indians  of  Mexico.  The 
appellation  of  Irish  was  then  given  exclu- 
sively to  the  Celts,  and  to  those  families  which, 
though  not  of  Celtic  origin,  had  in  the  course 
of  ages  degenerated  into  Celtic  manners. 
These  people,  probably  about  a  million  in 
number,  had,  with  few  exceptions,  adhered  ta 


TiiEiM  saxo:n-  obigin.  39 

the  Church  of  Rome.  Among  them  resided 
about  two  hundred  thouscand  colonists,  proud 
of  their  Saxon  blood  and  of  their  Protestant 
faith."  * 

And  again,  in  speaking  of  the  early  Scotch 
and  English  settlers,  he  says :  '•'  One  half  of 
the  settlers  belonged  to  the  Established  Church 
and  the  other  half  were  Dissenters.  But  in 
Ireland  Scot  and  Southron  were  strongly  bound 
together  by  their  common  Saxon  origin ; 
Churchman  and  Presbyterian  were  strongly 
bound  together  by  their  common  Protestantism. 
All  the  colonists  had  a  common  language  and  a 
common  pecuniary  interest.  They  were  sur- 
rounded by  common  enemies,  and  could  be 
safe  only  by  means  of  common  precautions 
and  exertions."  * 

In  speaking  of  the  differences  between  the 
races,  he  says :  "  Much,  however,  must  still 
have  been  left  to  the  healing  influence  of  time. 
The  native'race  would  still  have  had  to  learn 
from  the  colonists  industry  and  forethought, 
the  arts  of  civilized  life,  and  the  language  of 
England.  There  could  not  be  equality  between 
men  who  lived  in  houses  and  men  who  lived 
in  sties ;  between  men  who  were  fed  on  bread 
and  men  who  were  fed  on  potatoes ;  between 

*  Macaulay's  History  of  England. 


40     THEY  SPOKE  THE  ENGLISH  TONGUE. 

men  who  spoke  the  noble  tongue  of  great 
philosophers  and  poets,  and  men  who,  with 
perverted  pride,  boasted  that  they  could  not 
writhe  their  mouths  into  chattering  such  a 
jargon  as  that  in  which  the  'Advancement 
of  Learning'  and  the  ^Paradise  Lost'  were 
written."  * 

And  again,  speaking  of  Scotland,  from  which 
the  Scotch  of  Ireland  came,  he  says :  "  The 
population  of  Scotland,  with  the  exception  of 
the  Celtic  tribes,  which  were  thinly  scattered 
over  the  Hebrides  and  over  the  mountainous 
shires,  was  of  the  same  blood  with  the  popula- 
tion of  England,  and  spoke  a  tongue  which  did 
not  differ  from  the  purest  English  more  than 
the  dialects  of  Somersetshire  and  Lancaster- 
shire  differ  from  each  other."  * 

Such  being  the  relative  condition  of  the 
two  classes  as  eloquently  described  by  the  great 
English  historian,  it  is  the  height  of  absurdity 
to  claim  that  the  blood  of  the  distinct  races  was 
commingled  except  in  isolated  cases.  They  did 
not  commingle.  The  Scotch,  planted  upon  Irish 
soil,  were  Scotch  still,  and  the  Irish  were  Irish 
still.  The  Scotch  took  their  language  with 
them,  and  the  dialect  of  the  Lowlands  fell  upon 
the  startled  air  and  disturbed  the  mists  arising 

*  Macaulay's  History  of  England. 


THE   LOWLAND-SCOTCH  DIALECT.         41 

from  the  peat-fields  of  the  Emerald  Isle.  Their 
dialect  lived  in  Ireland,  was  transplanted  to 
American  shores,  and  in  all  the  New  Hampshire 
settlements  was  understood  and  spoken  for 
more  than  a  hundred  years  after  their  settle- 
ment upon  American  soil.  Letters  were  written 
in  it ;  and  many  poems  by  Robert  Dinsmoor, 
"  The  Rustic  Bard,"  in  a  printed  volume,  are 
written  in  the  Lowland-Scotch  dialect. 

Though  it  has  now  almost  entirely  disap- 
peared, being  supplanted  by  the  purer  English 
tongue,  yet  I  have  heard  the  rich  brogue  in  the 
Scotch  settlement  in  New  Hampshire,  and  in 
the  older  Scotch  settlement  in  Ireland,  and. 
know  numerous  families  in  New  Hampshire,  of 
Scotch  blood,  who  since  their  coming  to  these 
shores  one  hundred  and  seventy-three  years  ago 
have  not  intermarried  save  with  people  of  the 
same  race,  and  they  are  of  as  pure  Scotch  blood 
and  descent  as  can  be  found  in  the  Fatherland. 
The  sterling  traits  of  character  of  the  Scotch  in 
Ireland,  their  frugality,  tenacity  of  purpose,  in- 
domitable mil,  must  ever  be  an  honor  to  their 
character.  Their  glorious  achievements  upon 
American  soil  will  ever  add  lustre  to  their  name, 
and  the  mighty  men  produced  of  this  race  in  all 
parts  of  the  American  Union  vri\\  give  enduring 
fame  to  that  Scotch  race,  pure  and  unmixed, 


42      THE  HONOR  2  0  THE  SCOTCH  ALONE. 

which,  through  great  tribulation,  passed  in 
mighty  phalanxes  from  Scotland  to  Ireland, 
there  recruited  its  strength,  and  then  swept 
across  the  stormy  Atlantic  into  the  American 
wilderness,  subdued  forests,  founded  mighty 
states,  and  has  been  foremost  in  the  onward 
march  of  civilization.  They  are  proud  to  stand 
alone.  Scotch  in  blood,  li^dng  or  born  upon 
Ireland's  soil,  the  honor  is  theirs,  and  theirs 
alone,  and  none  can  deprive  them  of  their  glo- 
rious fame ! 

Rev.  John  S.  Macintosh,  D.  D.,  in  an  elo- 
quent historical  address  at  the  Scotch-Irish  Con- 
gress, at  Columbia,  Tenn.,*  in  1889,  says  of  the 
Scotch  and  the  Scotch-Irish  :  — 

"Peculiar  and  royal  race  ;  yes,  that  indeed  is 
our  race !  I  shrink  not  from  magnifying  my 
house  and  blood  with  a  deep  thanksgi^dng  to 
that  Almighty  God  who  himself  made  us  to  dif- 
fer, and  sent  His  great  messenger  to  fit  us  for 
our  earth-task, —  task  as  peculiar  and  royal  as  is 
the  race  itself.  I  shame  me  not  because  of  the 
Lowland  thistle  and  the  Ulster  gorse,  of  the 
Covenanter's  banner  or  the  Ulsterman's  pike. 

*  Lovers  of  the  Scotch  race,  whether  living  in  Scotland,  Ireland,  or 
America,  will  find  much  of  interest  on  "  The  Scotch-Irish  in  America,"  in 
the  published  Proceedings  of  the  Scotch-Irish  Congress  at  Columbia, 
Tenn.,  published  in  1889,  by  Robert  Clark  &  Co.,  Cincinnati,  O. ;  and  also 
in  the  published  Histories  of  the  towns  of  Londonderry,  Windham,  An- 
trim, Bedford,  Peterborough,  Gilmanton,  and  Acworth,  N.  H. 


TIJEin   DISTINCTIVE   MARKS.  43 

If  we  be  not  the  very  peculiar  people,  we 
Scotch-Irish  are  a  most  peculiar  peoj^le,  who 
have  ever  left  our  own  broad,  distinct  mark 
wherever  we  have  come,  and  have  it  in  us  still 
to  do  the  same,  even  our  critics  being  judges. 
To-day  we  stand  out  sharply  distinguished  in  a 
score  of  points  from  English,  Dutch,  German, 
and  Swede.  We  have  our  distinctive  marks, 
and,  like  ourselves,  they  are  strong  and  stub- 
born. Years  change  them  not,  seas  wash  them 
not  out,  varying  hopes  alter  them  not,  clash 
and  contact  with  new  forms  of  life  and  fresh 
forces  "of  society  blur  them  not.  Every  one 
knows  the  almost  laughably  dogged  persistency 
of  the  family  likeness  in  us  Scotch-Irish  all  the 
world  over.  Go  where  you  may,  know  it  once, 
then  you  know  it — aye,  feel  it — forever.  The 
typal  face,  the  typal  modes  of  thought,  the  typal 
habits  of  work,  tough  faiths,  unyielding  grit, 
granitic  hardness,  close-mouthed  self-repression, 
clear,  firm  speech  when  the  truth  is  to  be  told, 
God-fearing  honesty,  loyalty  to  friendship,  de- 
fiant of  death,  conscience  and  knee-bending  only 
to  God  —  these  are  our  marks.  And  they  meet 
and  greet  you  on  the  hills  of  Tennessee  and 
Georgia ;  you  may  trace  them  down  the  valleys 
of  Virginia  and  Pennsylvania ;  cross  the  prairies 
of  the  West  and  the  savannahs  of  the  South, 


44  THEIR   SOUL   FEATVBES. 

you  may  plow  the  seas  to  refind  them  in  the 
western  bays  of  Sligo,  and  beneath  the  beethng 
rocks  of  Donegal ;  thence  you  may  follow  them 
to  the  maiden  walls  of  Derry,  and  among  the 
winding  banks  of  the  silvery  Bann  ;  onward  you 
may  trace  them  to  the  rolling  hills  of  Down, 
and  the  busy  shores  of  Antrim;  and  sailing 
over  the  narrow  lough,  you  will  face  them  in 
our  forefathers'  collier  homes  and  gray  keeps 
of  Galloway  and  Dumfries,  of  the  Ayrshire  hills 
and  the  Grampian  slopes. 

"  These  racial  marks  are  birth-marks,  and 
birth-marks  are  indelible.  And  well  for  us  and 
the  world  is  it  that  they  are  indelible.  They 
are  great  soul-features,  these  marks.  They  are 
principles.  The  principles  are  the  same  every- 
where ;  and  these  principles  are  of  four  classes, 
religious,  moral,  intellectual,  and  political." 

The  Rev.  John  S.  Macintosh  says  again,  in  his 
eloquent,  and  almost  classical,  address  on  "  The 
Making  of  the  Ulsterman,"  at  the  Second  Con- 
gress of  "  The  Scotch-Irish  in  America,"  held 
in  Pittsburg,  Penn.,  in  May  and  June,  1890:  — 

"In  this  study  I  have  drawn  very  largely 
upon  the  labors  of  two  friends  of  former 
years, — Dr.  William  D.  Killen  of  the  Assem- 
bly's College,  one  of  the  most  learned  and 
accurate   of    historians,  and   the    Rev.   George 


THE  SCOTCH  OF   ULSTER.  46« 

Hill,  once  Librarian  of  Queen's  College,  Belfast, 
Ireland,  than  whom  never  was  there  more 
ardent  student  of  old  annals  and  reliable  anti- 
quarians ;  but  more  largely  still  have  I  drawn 
on  my  o^vll  personal  watch  and  study  of  this 
Ulster-folk  in  their  homes,  their  markets,  and 
their  churches.  From  Derry  to  Down  I  have 
lived  with  them.  Every  toAvn,  village,  and 
hamlet  from  the  Causeway  to  Carlingford  is 
familiar  to  me.  Knowing  the  Lowlander  and 
the  Scotch-Irish  of  this  land,  I  have  studied  the 
Ulsterman,  and  his  story  of  rights  and  wrongs, 
and  that  eagerly,  for  years.  I  speak  that  which 
I  have  seen,  and  testify  what  I  have  heard 
from  their  own  lips,  read  from  old  family 
books,  church  records,  and  many  a  tombstone 
in  Kirkyards." 

The  Scotch  settlers  in  Ulster  were  a  picked 
class,  as  he  proves  from  official  and  state  papers. 
In  a  letter  of.  Sir  Arthur  Chichester,  Deputy  for 
Ireland,  he  says  :  "  The  Scottishmen  came  with 
better  port  (i.  e.  manifest  character),  they  are 
better  accompanied  and  attended,  than  even 
the  English  settlers.  Just  as  to  these  western 
shores  came  the  stronger  souls,  the  more  daring 
and  select,  so  to  Ulster  from  the  best  parts 
of  Lower  Scotland  came  the  picked  men  to 
be  Britain's  favored  colonists." 


46  A   PICKED    CLASS. 

Speaking  of  the  race  conflicts  between  the 
Scotch  and  native  Irish,  he  says :  "  But  these 
proud  and  haughty  strangers,  with  their  high 
heads  and  new  ways,  were  held  as  aliens  and 
harried  from  the  beginning  by  '  the  wild  Irish.' 
The  scorn  of  the  Scot  was  met  by  the  curse  of 
the  Celt." 

And  again :  "  It  has  been  said  that  the 
Ulster  settlers  mingled  and  married  with  the 
Irish  Celt.  The  Ulsterman  did  not  mingle  with 
the  Celt."  Great  care  was  taken  by  the  gov- 
ernment that  the  Ulster  Colonists  should  be 
so  settled  that  the}^  "  may  not  mix  nor  inter- 
marry "  ^\iih  the  native  Celts. 

Dr.  Macintosh  says  again :  "  The  Ulster  set- 
tlers mingled  freely  with  the  EngUsh  Puritans 
and  with  the  refugee  Huguenots ;  but  so  far  as 
my  search  of  state  papers,  old  manuscripts,  ex- 
amination of  old  parish  registers,  and  years  of 
personal  talk  mth,  and  study  of,  Ulster-folk, 
the  Scots  did  not  mingle  to  any  appreciable  ex- 
tent with  the  natives.  .  .  .  With  all  its 
dark  sides,  as  well  as  light,  the  fact  remains 
that  Ulsterman  and  Celt  were  ahens  and  foes. 
.  It  is  useless  for  Prendergast,  Gilbert, 
and  others  to  deny  the  massacres  of  1641. 
Reid,  and  Hickson,  and  Froude,  the  e^ddence 
sworn  to  before  the  Long  Parhament,  and  the 


"  WE 'BE  NO  EEBIISH,  BUT  SCOATCH."      47 

memories  of  the  people,  prove  the  dark  facts. 
.  .  .  In  both  Lowlander  and  Ulsterman  is 
the  same  strong  racial  pride,  the  same  hauteur 
and  self-assertion,  the  same  self-reliance,  the 
same  close  mouth,  and  the  same  firm  mil, — 
'The  stiff  heart  for  the  steek  brae.'  They  are 
both  of  the  very  Scotch,  Scotch.  To  this  very 
hour,  in  the  remoter  and  more  unchanged  parts 
of  Antrim  and  Do^\ai,  the  country-folk  mil  tell 
you :  '  We  're  no  Eerisli,  but  Scoatch.'  All 
their  folk-lore,  all  their  tales,  their  traditions, 
their  songs,  their  poetry,  their  heroes  and  hero- 
ines, and  their  home-speech,  is  of  the  oldest 
Lowland  types  and  times." 

In  continuation  of  this  subject,  I  will  say, 
that  in  the  Scotch  settlements  of  New  Hamp- 
shire, after  a  residence  of  one  hundred  and 
seventy-three  years,  there  are  families  of  as 
pure  Scotch  lineage  as  can  be  found  in  the 
Scotch  settlements  of  Ireland  or  in  the  interior 
of  the  Scottish  Lowlands.  In  no  instance  since 
their  coming  to  America  have  they  intermar- 
ried with  any  save  those  of  Scottish  blood. 

They  retain  in  a  marked  degree  the  mental 
characteristics  of  the  race ;  there  are  the  same 
lofty  adherence  to  principle,  the  same  pride  of 
race,  the  same  tenacity  of  purpose,  the  same 
manifestations    of    unbending-     and    inflexible 


48  PURE   SCOTCH  LINEAGE. 

will-power  and  devotion  to  duty,  as  were  shown 
by  their  forefathers  at  the  "  Siege  of  Derry  " , 
or  by  their  Covenanting  ancestors  who,  among 
the  moors,  the  glens,  and  the  cold  mountains 
of  Scotland,  amid  sufferings  numberless,  upheld 
loftily  the  banner  of  the  Cross,  while  some 
sealed  their  deathless  devotion  to  the  faith  of 
their  souls  by  sacrificing  the  bright  red  blood 
of  their  hearts. 

In  my  veins  flows,  equally  commingled,  the 
blood  of  the  Scot  and  the  Puritan ;  but  I  speak 
what  I  do  know,  and  declare,  mth  all  the  force 
and  emphasis  which  language  is  capable  of 
expressing,  that  after  many  years  of  careful 
historical  and  genealogical  research,  relating  to 
Scotch- American  famihes;  after  tracing  them 
from  America  to  the  Emerald  Isle,  thence 
across  the  narrow  belt  of  sea  to  the  Father- 
land, Scotland ;  that  only  in  exceptional  cases 
has  there  been  an  intermixture  by  marriage 
of  the  Scot  with  the  Irish  Celt. 

I  am  somewhat  familiar  with  the  Scotch 
settlements  in  Ulster,  have  met  and  talked  and 
am  acquainted  mth  many  of  her  people  of 
Scotch  descent,  and  they  declare  with  partic- 
ular emphasis  that  the  mixture  of  Scot  and  Irish 
Celt  has  been  of  the  slightest  kind. 


LOVE  FOB   FATHERLAND.  49 

The  love  of  Scotchmen,  and  the  descendants 
of  Scotchmen,  in  Ulster  and  elsewhere  for  the 
Fatherland  and  its  history  is  phenomenal,  and 
in  America  has  existed  for  generations.  It  is 
as  sweet,  as  strong,  and  enduring  as  that  of 
Burns  for  the  object  of  his  affections  as  ex- 
pressed in  the  following  lines,  and  which  all  of 
our  race  can  apply  to  Scotland :  — 

An'  I  will  love  thee  still,  my  dear. 
Till  a'  the  seas  gang  dry. 

Till  a'  the  seas  gang  dry,  my  dear, 
And  the  rocks  melt  wi'  the  sun; 

I  will  love  thee  still,  my  dear, 
While  the  sands  of  life  shall  run. 


CHAPTER    IV. 

MEETING   DESCENDANTS    OF   THE    SCOTCH  SETTLERS. 

Leaving  Aghadowey,  a  locality  whose  history 
and  all  that  pertains  to  it  has  such  an  interest 
and  charm  to  the  descendants  of  people  who 
from  those  familiar  grounds,  nearly  two  cen- 
turies since,  passed  to  the  New  World,  I  went 
to  Crockendolge,  and  at  night  was  a  guest  at 
the  hospitable  home  of  a  clansman  in  Money- 
Dig,  Garvagh.  During  one  of  those  days  of 
examination  and  journeying  I  rode  twenty-five 
miles  by  jaunting-car. 

The  following  morning  mine  host  carried  me 
to  Ballymoney,  where  by  rail  my  journey  was 
continued  to  Ballemena.  Among  the  descen- 
dants of  Scotch  emigrants  to  Ireland  whom  it 
was  my  pleasure  to  meet  was  Abraham  Sinclair, 
an  intelliorent  and  successful  merchant  of  that 
city,  and,  later  on,  Thomas  Sinclair,  J.  P.,  a 
wealthy  and  prominent  citizen  of  Belfast.  One 
of  the  first  members  of  that  family  who  emi- 
grated to  America,  two  centuries  and  a  half 
ago,  bore  the  same  Christian  name.  One  of  the 
early  settlers  of  Exeter  and  Hampton,  N.  H., 
in  1660  or  there  about,  was  John  Sinclair,  the 


NATUIiE'S  LAVISH  GIFTS  TO  IBELAND.    51 

ancestor  of  many  of  that  name  in  the  State. 
Thus  the  ancient  family  names  of  the  Old  World 
are  continually  duplicated  in  the  New. 

From  Larne,  by  narrow-gauge  railway,  the 
next  place  visited  was  Glenwherry,  and  the 
family  of  Mr.  James  Andrews,  stopping  at 
Ballynashee  station.  He  is  of  Scotch  descent, 
his  family  having  been  in  Ireland  for  more  than 
two  centuries, — a  large  land-owner,  living  very 
comfortably  in  his  nice  stone  house,  embowered 
with  large  and  overshadowing  trees,  while  back 
of  it  rose  a  high,  long,'  sweeping  stretch  of  pro- 
tecting hills.  It  was  a  novelty  and  a  delight  in 
that  foreign  land  to  meet  these  hospitable  peo- 
ple in  their  attractive  homes.  As  one  looked 
forth  on  hill,  valley,  Avater,  and  the  various 
attractions  in  \dew,  it  seemed  as  though  Nature 
had  been  sufficiently  lavish  in  her  gifts  to  Ire- 
land. 

It  was  my  fortune  to  be  in  Belfast  on  the 
Twelfth  of  July,  the  199th  anniversary  of  the 
^'Battle  of  the  Boyne,"  ever  a  great  day  in 
the  North  of  Ireland,  where  celebrations  always 
take  place.  On  this  particular  day  the  Orange- 
men were  out  in  force.  Many  different  socie- 
ties, with  their  flags,  and  its  members  dressed 
in  their  regalia,  were  seen  among  the  marching 
thousands. 


52     "  WHAT  FOOLS  THESE  MORTALS  BE!" 

There  was  an  immense  procession,  which 
paraded  the  streets  of  Belfast  with  waving 
plumes  and  flaunting  banners.  Many  were  the 
mottoes  on  their  gorgeous  flags,  such  as  "No 
Surrender,"  "Remember  the  Boyne  Water," 
and  others  eulogistic  of  William,  Prince  of 
Orange.  The  Scotch  bagpipes  were  playing, 
which,  united  with  the  bugle's  blast  and  the 
fearfully  beaten  drums,  made  discordant  music. 
The  greatest  force,  vindictiveness  and  spite, 
were  manifested  in  many  things  which  I  ob- 
served. They  marched  out  of  the  city  to 
Chrome,  seven  miles  away,  and  in  the  afternoon 
marched  back  again, — men,  women,  boys,  and 
girls,  old  and  young.  Fully  150,000  people  were 
estimated  to  have  been  at  that  j)lace.  Both 
classes  of  people,  Protestants  and  Catholics,  the 
descendants  of  the  Scotch  and  English  as  well 
as  the  native  Irishmen,  are  unreasonable,  and 
manifest  but  little  of  that  charity  toward  each 
other  "which  suffereth  long."  As  I  looked 
over  the  vast  throng,  and  thought  of  the  other 
class  equally  vindictive,  one  could  not  but  say, 
"  What  fools  these  mortals  be  !  "  It  is  safe  to 
assert  that  not  one  in  ten  in  those  marching 
thousands  were  Home  Rulers,  and  had  any  of 
the  Celtic  Irish  used  insulting  language  to  these 
men,  who  were  celebrating  the  victory  of  the 


DATS  IN  BELFAST.  53 

''  Boyue  Water,"  there  would  have  been  as 
lively  a  scrimmage  as  is  now  going  on  in  South- 
ern Ireland  between  Parnell  and  Davitt  and 
their  followers  of  the  split-in-twain  Home  Kule 
party,  and  as  many  broken  heads.  Many  of 
the  homes  and  estates  in  Belfast  are  vast, 
elegant,  and  elaborate.  Among  them  was  one 
which  I  visited.  Most  charming  grounds  and 
shrubbery  surrounded  the  beautiful  residence, 
with  its  rich,  varied,  and  costly  furnishings. 

During  a  delightfid  stay  in  Belfast,  I  was  for 
a  time  a  guest  at  the  home  of  Rev.  Robert 
Andrew  Phenix,  M.  A.,  at  Kilwaughter  Rectory, 
near  Larne.  The  Rectory  stands  in  a  park  off 
the  highway,  surrounded  by  a  wall,  and  filled 
with  beautiful  shrubbery.  But  nothing  was 
more  beautiful  than  the  kindness  of  the  greet- 
ing of  the  rector  and  his  attractive  wife,  and 
the  warmth  of  their  generous  hospitality.  All 
are  pleasant-  remembrances.  I  also  visited 
Bangor,  a  few  miles  away,  and  an  old  historic 
church,  and  its  castle's  grounds.  W.  E.  Arm- 
strong and  his  son,  solicitors,  gave  me  much 
attention,  and  thus  aided  me  in  my  special  work. 
Thus  were  spent  happy  days  in  Belfast. 

Going  to  Dublin,  I  called  on  Lieutenant 
Heally  of  the  Royal  Navy,  Marine  Department, 
and  at  the  office  of  the  Assistant  Chief  of  the 


64  EABLT  EMIGBATION    LISTS. 

Emigration  Department,  and  sent  to  various 
other  places  for  special  historical  information, 
which  apparently  does  not  exist.  Early  emi- 
gration lists  are  difhcult  to  find,  and  the  most 
of  them  are  utterly  lost.  At  the  Four  Courts 
I  called  upon  Judge  Porter,  the  Right  Honor- 
able Master  of  Rolls,  and  was  enabled  to  con- 
sult, without  trouble,  many  old  records,  parish 
and  otherwise,  which  are  there  deposited. 

After  considerable  labor  in  this  line,  my  work 
in  Ireland  was  completed,  and  one  afternoon  I 
took  passage  on  a  vessel  which  steamed  out  of 
Dublin  Harbor  just  as  the  evening  shadows  were 
deepening,  and  the  afterglow  from  the  sun  which 
had  set  lighted  with  an  almost  divine  halo  the 
summits  of  distant  high  elevations.  The  har- 
bor is  attractive  to  the  eye,  and  the  view  of  the 
mountains  in  the  Counties  of  Dublin  and  Wick- 
low  was  fine  indeed.  When  we  landed  at 
Hollyhead  the  clear  lights  of  steamers  and  sail- 
ing vessels  flitted  and  danced  brightly  in  the 
blick  night  over  the  restless  waters  of  the  bay. 


CHAPTER    V. 

IN   WALES. 

HoLLYHEAD  is  of  considerable  importance, 
on  account  of  its  convenience  as  a  place  from 
which  vessels  can  easily  reach  the  Irish  coast, 
and  the  town  is  filled  with  an  active  and  thriv- 
ing population.  Vast  sums  have  been  spent 
upon  public  works,  and  a  fine  harbor  has  been 
constructed.  A  lighthouse  with  brilliant  lights, 
two  hundred  and  twelve  feet  above  the  water,  is 
situated  three  miles  away,  on  an  isolated  rock, 
called  the  South  Stack.  The  promontory  of  the 
Head  is  a  precipitous  rock,  into  which  channels 
have  been  worn  by  the  beating  waters,  and 
where  inniunerable  fowls  congregate  and  nest. 
This  place  is  connected  with  Chester  and  Liver- 
pool by  rdil,  by  which  rapid  transit  is  made 
■with  those  places. 

Lea\dng  Hollyhead,  I  passed  through  a  coun- 
try of  picturesque  scenery,  where  many  fine 
watering-places  nestled  on  the  shores  of  the 
ocean,  with  shadowing  hills  in  the  background. 
After  passing  railroad-girdled  hills  and  old 
ruins,  in  plain  view  at  Hawarden  was  situated, 
among  stately  trees  which  his  destroying  axe 


56  HOME   OF   GLADSTONE. 

had  not  felled,  the  home  of  the  great  English 
and  world-renowned  statesman,  William  Ewart 
Gladstone. 

I  soon  reached  Chester,  and  then  Liverpool, 
where  I  stayed  only  long  enough  to  receive  my 
mail,  and  despatch  letters  to  the  United  States. 
I  pressed  on  to  Buxton,  a  fashionable  inland 
watering-place,  in  the  northwest  part  of  the 
County  of  Derby,  in  the  hilly  moorland  called 
the  High  Peak.  The  district  is  renowned  for  its 
picturesque  and  beautiful  scenery,  its  health- 
giving  atmosphere,  its  mineral  waters  and  baths, 
and  is  a  favorite  resort  of  invalids  and  tourists. 
Here  at  Diamond  Hill  are  found  the  famous 
quartz  crystals,  widely  known  as  the  Buxton 
diamonds.  Near  the  Diamond  Hill  is  a  long 
natural  cavern,  extending  into  the  hill  almost 
half  a  mile,  and  known  as  Poole's  Hole.  The 
entrance  is  narrow,  but  soon  enlarges,  and 
the  ceiling  becomes  more  lofty.  A  narrow 
stream  flows  through  high  chambers,  with  im- 
posing arches,  and  with  stalactites  suspended 
from  the  top,  and  crystalline  masses  have  accu- 
mulated on  the  floor,  caused  by  the  dropping  of 
the  water  filled  with  calcareous  matter.  A  guide 
accompanied  me  through  the  entire  length, 
which  was  lighted  by  gas.  The  place  is  remark- 
able for  its  strangeness  and  beauty. 


AT  BUXTON.  57 

The  Buxton  Gcardens  and  Pavilion  are  said 
to  be  unsurpassed  in  Great  Britain,  for  the 
beauty  of  waterfalls,  lawns,  and  walks,  and  the 
many  kinds  of  entertainment  and  amusement 
proAdded  for  their  patrons. 

After  concluding  my  stay  at  Buxton,  I  went, 
via  Liverpool,  almost  direct  to  the  southwest- 
ern part  of  Wales.  I  saw  the  huge  excavations 
for  the  great  canal  which  is  to  connect  Man- 
chester with  Liverpool,  and  which  will  make  a 
sea  port  of  this  populous  inland  city.  My 
route  took  me  through  nearly  the  whole  length 
of  Wales,  passing  into  the  centre  in  a  south- 
westerly direction.  The  rain  fell  heavily,  but 
it  was  a  journey  of  great  enjoyment,  as  the  route 
lay  through  romantic  and  charming  scenery, 
where  the  mountains  in  their  beauty  and  green- 
ness were  all  about  us.  Only  a  short  stay  was 
made  at  the  quaint  old  city  of  Shrewsbury,  on 
the  River  Severn,  with  its  crooked,  narrow 
streets  and  tile-roofed  houses. 

Passing  through  the  important  and  finely  sit- 
uated to^vn  of  Carmarthen,  I  reached,  late  one 
afternoon,  the  small  struggling  place  called  St. 
Clear's,  and  registered  at  the  Railway  Hotel. 
It  is  a  place  of  a  good  deal  of  history,  some 
ancient,  some  modern.  A  celebrated  family  of 
counterfeiters  of  paper  money  lived  there  about 


58  A   SUSPICIOUS  CHABACTEE. 

1815-16,  and  while  mingling  in  the  best  society 
carried  on  their  nefarious  business.  At  last  came 
exposure,  arrest,  trial,  conviction,  and  one  of 
the  family,  Mr.  Baines,  was  executed.  The 
cottage  in  which  the  family  lived,  called  "  The 
Victoria,"  is  still  standing  and  attracts  atten- 
tion. The  chamber  where  he  carried  on  the 
business,  with  the  aperture  in  the  walls  where 
his  implements  and  counterfeit  money  were 
secreted,  are  still  to  be  seen.  Wishing  to  see 
the  village  and  this  place,  I  took  an  evening 
stroll,  and  made  inquiries  of  several  parties  for 
the  house  where  the  "counterfeiters"  lived; 
but  the  ignorant  denizens  of  the  village  knew 
nothing  of  the  history  of  their  own  neighbor- 
hood, and  looked  at  me  distrustfully.  Return- 
ing to  my  hotel  without  finding  the  object  of 
my  search,  I  was  going  to  my  room,  when  in 
rushed  a  large  portly  man,  red  in  the  face,  out  of 
breath,  and  evidently  quite  excited.  He  looked 
at  me  sharply  as  I  saluted  him  and  passed  to 
my  apartment.  He  was  the  "inspector"  (chief 
of  police),  and  in  the  morning  I  was  told  by  the 
hotel  manager,  with  some  mirth,  that  my  in- 
quiries had  aroused  the  suspicions  of  the  vil- 
lagers, who  notified  the  "inspector"  that  there 
was  "a  suspicious  looking  character"  about, 
and  he  had  come  to  the  hotel  to  see  me,  and  to 
warn  the  manager  to  look  out  for  me ! 


SEBJiON  IN   THE    WELSH   TONGUE.        59 

The  following  day  was  the  Sabbath.  I  at- 
tended the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church.  The 
minister  preached  in  the  Welsh  tongue,  in 
which  all  the  services  were  conducted.  The 
stewards  (deacons)  sat  in  front  of  the  pulpit, 
on  seats  higher  than  those  of  the  congregation. 
The  Sacrament  of  the  Lord's  Supper  was  ad- 
ministered. The  minister  first  partook  of  the 
sacred  emblems,  then  the  stewards,  then  he 
passed  them  to  the  congregation.  All  this 
time  he  was  rapidly  speaking,  and  then  the  con- 
gregation broke  forth  into  jubiUmt  song ;  and 
what  clear,  sweet,  strong  voices  they  had,  and 
how  well  they  sang! 

For  the  singers'  voices  were  tender, 
And  sweet  as  with  love  untold. 

The  mourning  caps  of  the  women  were  ex- 
ceedingly peculiar,  and  in  riding  they  wore  the 
Welsh  tall  hat, —  about  a  foot  in  height, — 
peaked  at  the  top,  which  gave  rise  to  these 
lines  :  — 

Let  other  maids  their  heads  enfold 
In  tresses  dark  or  coils  of  gold  ; 
Cambrian  maids,  believe  me  that 
Your  crowning  beauty  is  your  hat. 

The  people  talk  among  themselves  mostl}^  in 
their  native  tongue,  but  the  larger  part  of 
them  can  speak  English  as  well.     The  day  was 


60  ST.    CLEAR'S  AND  LAUGHABLE. 

vastly  enjoyed.  The  strange  country,  the 
stranger  methods  of  dress,  ways  of  living,  looks 
of  the  people,  and  the  incidents  of  the  day, 
united  to  make  it  one  long  to  be  remembered. 

St.  Clear's  is  an  ancient  town,  dating  back  to 
about  the  time  of  William  the  Conqueror.  A 
famous  castle  was  once  there,  and  a  great  cir- 
cular mound,  just  off  of  the  main  street  in  one 
of  its  villages,  marks  the  site  of  it.  The  old 
church  was  built  before  A.  D.  1200,  but  was 
"restored"  in  recent  years. 

Taking  a  "trap"  on  Monday,  I  was  carried 
to  the  town  of  Laugharne,  which  was  a  point 
occupied  by  the  Romans  when  they  possessed 
Great  Britain.  Our  way  lay  over  a  country  of 
gently  rising  hills,  between  which  and  in  plain 
view  the  River  Taff  flowed  sluggishly  along 
through  undulating  meadows.  On  the  hills  and 
in  the  fields  were  large  herds  of  a  very  popular 
breed  of  Welsh  cattle,  hardy,  tough,  black  in 
color,  with  large  horns,  and  known  as  the  "  Cas- 
tle Martin"  stock.  At  a  half-way  point  between 
St.  Clear's  and  Laugharne,  from  an  elevation 
was  a  commanding  view  of  the  country  for  miles 
about  us.  In  the  distance  were  gently  rising 
hills,  cut  up  by  hedges  into  numerous  fields, 
interspersed  with  trees,  while  far  away  Car- 
marthen saluted   our   vision.     The   village    of 


THE  EUINED    CASTLE.  61 

Laugharne  was  reached  by  a  steep  descent,  and 
lies  among  hills  on  the  calm  waters  of  a  north- 
ward projecting  arm  of  Carmarthen  Bay.  A 
castle,  magnificent  in  its  ruins,  on  the  shore  of 
the  bay,  is  the  chief  object  of  attraction.  It 
belongs  to  a  wealthy  family,  and  visitors  are 
admitted  certain  days  in  the  week.  Being  ad- 
mitted, I  found  the  courtyard  filled  with  gar- 
dens of  flowers,  and  green  sward  lined  the  sides 
of  gravelled  walks.  There  are  trees  of  various 
kinds.  Over  the  high  battlements  and  ruined 
arches  of  windows  there  are  clinging  the  green 
tendrils  of  the  ivy.  Thus  the  beauty  of  ex- 
uberant life  covers  up  the  blackness  of  desola- 
tion, ruin,  and  death. 

Leaving  this  pleasing  locality,  I  journeyed 
to  Carmarthen  Junction,  and  then  went  in  a 
southeasterly  direction,  on  the  bank  of  the 
sparkling  River  Towey,  to  Ferry  Side.  On  the 
opposite  shore,  standing  in  bold  relief  on  a 
high  headland,  overlooking  river  and  country 
around,  are  the  extensive  ruins  of  Llanstephen 
Castle, 

Where  round  the  mouldering  towers  green  ivy  creeps, 
Alid  low-browed  rocks  hang  nodding  o'er  the  deeps. 

The  castle  is  supposed  to  have  been  built  in 
1138,  was  a  very  strong  fortress,  and  often 
endured    the  vicissitudes  of  war.     The  Welsh 


62  SWANSEA   AND    GABDIFF. 

word  "llan"  meant  originally  a  narrowing,  a 
dike,  a  recess ;  and,  later,  a  circle,  or  sacred 
enclosure,  used  for  a  place  of  worship. 

The  country  in  South  Wales  abounds  with 
ruined  castles,  the  mementos  of  a  turbulent, 
warlike  past.  At  Kidwelli  is  a  famous  old 
castle,  with  its  gateway  fronting  the  sea,  erected 
by  William  de  Londres  in  1094.  Two  of  its 
towers  are  in  a  state  of  perfect  preservation. 
That  and  the  village  are  situated  among  great 
shadowing  trees,  and  are  very  pleasing  to  the 
traveller. 

Passing  along  the  shores  of  river  and  bay,  the 
bustling,  thriving  city  of  Swansea  was  reached. 
The  air  was  black  with  the  smoke  of  its  great 
smelting  furnaces,  arising  from  a  multitude  of 
chimneys,  for  this  is  the  seat  of  the  copper 
trade  of  Great  Britain.  Besides  having  great 
business  interests  with  all  parts,  its  harbor  is 
excellent,  and  it  has  become  a  popular  sea 
resort. 

After  a  short  stay  in  Swansea,  and  again  at 
Neath,  I  reached  Cardiff,  and  registered  at  the 
Royal  Hotel.  It  is  one  of  the  most  important 
cities  in  South  Wales,  containing  more  than 
one  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  and  abounds 
in  interesting  things  of  the  past  and  present. 
Its   castle  speaks   of  a  distant  past.      It  was 


THE   SEVJSEN   TUNNEL.  63 

erected  in  the  eleventh  century,  and  there  was 
confined  for  thirty  years  Robert  Curtrose,  the 
eldest  son  of  William  the  Conqueror.  It  has 
been  restored  in  late  years,  and  the  magnifi- 
cence and  beauty  of  its  grounds  are  hardly 
surpassed.  It  is  occasionally  occupied  by  the 
Marquis  of  Bute.  Its  ship  canal  and  the  docks 
of  Cardiff  are  of  vast  extent,  and  tell  us  of  an 
enterprising  and  active  present,  where  the  ac- 
tivities of  men  are  more  turned  to  the  conquests 
of  peace  than  to  the  horrors  of  war. 

Leaving  Cardiff,  I  went  to  Newport  by  way 
of  Llandaff.  On  the  way  to  Bristol,  I  passed 
throuo;h  one  of  the  most  renowned  tunnels  of 
the  world,  the  Severn,  under  the  River  Severn. 
It  was  opened  in  December,  1886;  is  four  and 
one-third  miles  in  length,  from  forty  to  one 
hundred  feet  beneath  the  river's  bed,  twenty- 
six  feet  high,  twenty-six  feet  wide,  and  two 
railway  tracks  go  through  it.  Passing  through 
Bristol,  a  large  city  with  many  roofs  of  tile, 
and  a  population  of  more  than  two  hundred 
thousand,  I  reached  the  beautiful  city  of  Bath 
England. 


CHAPTER    VI. 

m   ENGLAND. 

I  REGISTERED  at  the  Great  Pump  Room  Ho- 
tel, immediately  over,  or  at  the  side,  of  the  great 
Roman  Baths  of  seventeen  hundred  years  ago, 
which  are  of  large  extent.  The  baths  of  the 
city  are  wonderful.  The  latter  lies  in  the  vale 
of  the  Avon  River,  is  built  substantially  of 
light  gray  sandstone,  and  rises  from  the  vale 
beneath  up  the  sloping  hillsides  to  a  height 
of  some  six  hundred  feet.  There  is  a  great 
deal  to  admire  in  its  beauty  and  situation.  It 
has  been  frequented  by  the  most  renowned  of 
statesmen,  poets,  and  authors ;  by  many  have 
its  praises  been  sung.  Christopher  Anstey 
makes  one  of  his  characters  say :  — 

Of  all  the  gay  places  the  world  can  afford, 
By  gentle  and  simple  for  pastime  adored; 
Fine  balls  and  fine  concerts,  fine  buildings  and  springs, 
Fine  walks  and  fine  views,  and  a  thousand  fine  things  ; 
Not  to  mention  the  sweet  situation  and  air,  — 
What  place,  my  dear  mother,  with  Bath  can  compare. 

There  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  Hon. 
Arthur  Livermore  and  wife,  friends  whose  ac- 
quaintance I  made  when  he  was  United  States 


BEAUTY  OF   WINDSOB   CASTLE.  65 

€onsul  at  Londonderry,  Ireland.  Mj  journey 
led  me  to  Swindon,  to  Reading,  with  its  activ- 
ity; to  Maidenhead,  Slough,  and  to  "Windsor, 
with  its  glorious  castle,  the  home  of  royalty. 
A  description  of  its  massiveness,  the  beauty  of 
its  various  chapels,  and  all  which  goes  to  make 
up  Windsor,  would  fill  volumes.  It  was  my 
privilege  to  see  much,  and  to  feel  a  great  de- 
light in  comprehending  its  greatness  and  splen- 
dor. The  interior  of  the  Albert  Memorial 
Chapel  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  chapels,  or 
works  of  art,  which  it  has  ever  been  my  privi- 
lege to  see  in  Great  Britain. 

I  found  myself  on  familiar  ground  upon 
arriving  in  London,  and  immediately  secured 
hotel  accommodations  in  my  old  quarters,  in  the 
vicinity  of  Exeter  Hall.  At  Somerset  House 
I  met  Henry  F.  Waters,  whose  gleanings  in 
England  on  historical  matters  are  so  valuable. 
He  represents  the  New  England  Historic  and 
Genealogical  Society.  Some  time  was  spent 
at  Somerset  House  in  historical  search,  and  at 
the  Records  Office  in  Fetter  Lane.  The  fol- 
lowing statement  may  be  of  service  to  other 
searchers  for  historical  knowledge  which  they 
hope  to  find  on  the  other  side  of  the  sea. 

Till  Cromwell's  time,  shipping  masters  were 
hy  law  required  to  procure  a  license  to  sail  be- 


66    .NO  LISTS   OF  AMEBIC  AN   COLONISTS 

yond  seas ;  after  that  period  they  procured  no 
license,  and  few,  if  any,  shipping  lists  of  emi- 
grants are  preserved  after  that  date.  To 
that  regulation  we  are  indebted  for  the  pres- 
ervation of  the  lists  of  the  emigrants  of  the 
Mayflower  and  numerous  other  ships,  preserved 
by  Hotten  and  others  in  their  valuable  works. 
To  find  early  records  of  emigrants  from  Great 
Britain  to  the  United  States  and  America,  I 
called  upon  the  Assistant  Secretary  of  the 
Marine  Department,  Board  of  Trade,  at  White 
Hall,  and  at  the  Register-General's  Office  of 
Seamen  and  Shipping,  near  the  Tower  of  Lon- 
don, and  none  could  be  found  save  those  al- 
residy  in  print.  It  is  altogether  probable  that 
most  of  the  lists  of  emigrants  to  America  are 
forever  lost.  I  have  made  very  careful  in- 
quiries and  search  at  the  main  shipping  ports 
and  public  offices  in  the  three  kingdoms,  and 
have  found  no  additional  records  of  emigrants. 
The  names  of  emigrating  ancestors  of  many 
Americans,  the  time  they  left  their  native  land, 
and  the  towns  from  which  they  came,  will  re- 
main forever  hidden.  Some,  however,  may  yet 
be  revealed  in  the  years  to  come  through  the 
painstaking  care  and  thorough  research  of 
local  historians. 

Previous  to  the  marriage  of  the  daughter  of 


DEBATES  IN  HOUSE   OF  COMMONS.        07 

the  Prince  of  Wales  to  the  Highland  nobleman, 
the  Queen  had  requested  of  Parliament  an  ad- 
ditional appropriation  for  the  support  of  the 
Prince  of  Wales  and  his  family.  It  raised  a 
storm  of  opposition.  Many  besides  the  Radi- 
cals thought  that  royalty  was  a  senseless  and 
expensive  luxury,  and  that  the  ones  who 
reaped  the  benefit  from  it  were  members  of 
the  royal  family  themselves.  They  thought 
that,  considering  the  magnificent  amounts  now 
received  by  the  Prince  from  the  nation,  he 
and  his  family  should  use  common  sense  in 
their  expenditures  the  same  as  other  people, 
and  were  tired  of  having  royalty  forever  cry- 
ing "  More !  more  !  "  The  Royal  Grants  Bill 
came  up  in  Parliament,  the  debates  lasted  long 
and  were  of  great  interest,  and  one  evening 
I  went  to  the  House  of  Commons  to  listen  to 
the  speeches. 

Through  the  courtesy  of  Hon.  Herbert  Glad- 
stone, I  secured  a  ticket  and  a  seat  in  the 
Strangers'  Gallery.  Gladstone  made  a  power- 
ful speech  in  favor  of  the  bill  before  my  en- 
trance, but  it  was  my  privilege  to  listen  to 
Hon.  W.  H.  Smith,  also  Mr.  Morely,  who  is  an 
eloquent  and  fluent  speaker,  and  several  others, 
staying  there,  as  I  did,  until  midnight.  Some 
plain  truths  were  uttered  by  members  in  rela- 


68  THE  ROYAL   MABBIAGE. 

tion  to  royalty,  which,  had  they  been  spoken 
two  centuries  ago,  would  have  cost  the  persons 
who  said  them  their  heads!  "The  world  does 
move." 

Two  days  after  this  memorable  debate  — 
sunshine,  shadow,  rain — multitudes  thronged 
the  streets  of  London.  Through  the  Strand, 
to  Charing  Cross  and  Trafalgar  Square, 
through  Pall  Mall  and  Piccadilly,  the  surging 
crowds  went  to  Buckingham  Palace  to  see 
what  could  be  seen  of  the  royal  marriage, 
and  I  went  with  them.  Thousands  of  people 
were  in  the  vicinity  and  filled  every  available 
foot  of  ground.  After  the  ceremony,  "Her 
Most  Gracious  Majesty  the  Queen,"  sur- 
rounded by  the  royal  family,  appeared  upon 
the  balcony  of  the  Palace,  and  was  given  a 
splendid  ovation,  which  she  acknowledged  with 
great  courtesy  by  repeatedly  bowing  to  the 
vast  assembly.  She  is  a  short,  fat  old  lady, 
with  a  homely,  heavy  countenance ;  still  she  im- 
presses one  quite  favorably.  Were  it  not  for 
her  high  position,  she  would  probably  receive 
no  more  attention,  nor  be  entitled  to  any  more, 
than  a  million  other  good  women  in  Great 
Britain.  No  one  claims  for  her  superior  intel- 
lectual gifts.  But  if  there  must  be  a  Queen, 
England  is  fortunate  in  having  her  as  a  ruler. 


HEE   MAJESTY   THE    QUEEN.  69 

for  her  reign  has  been  a  pure  and  upright  one, 
and  she  has  frowned  down  many  things  which 
cast  a  well  merited  reproach  upon  the  charac- 
ters and  reigns  of  her  predecessors.  The  Prince 
of  Wales  is  a  good  looking  "man  of  the  world," 
and  the  others  —  well,  they  were  merely  men 
and  women. 

The  Princess  and  her  husband  were  driven 
out  of  the  Palace  grounds  in  one  of  the  royal 
coaches,  past  the  spot  where  I  stood,  and  a 
good  view  was  obtained  of  them.  They  made 
a  nice  couple,  and  she  looked  as  beautiful  as  a 
fine  hot-house  flower.  Long  life  and  happi- 
ness to  them !  One  sunny  Sabbath  I  went  and 
heard  Canon  Farrar,  one  of  the  broadest  and 
finest  preachers  in  England.  As  would  be  ex- 
pected, the  sermon  was  excellent,  the  service 
beautiful.  In  the  afternoon  I  listened  to 
Canon  Duckworth  in  Westminster  Abbey,  and 
in  the  evening  to  Rev.  Newman  Hall.  It  was  a" 
rare  privilege  to  listen  to  these  noted  men,  and 
it  was  greatly  enjoyed.  A  stroll  in  the  bright 
sunshine  in  the  afternoon  on  the  bank  of  the 
Thames,  and  through  the  lovely  gardens  of 
the  Victoria  Embankment,  filled  as  they  were 
with  brightly  blooming  flowers,  of  many  varie- 
ties and  colors,  was  one  of  marked  pleasure. 

I  saw  Madame   Tussaud   &   Sons'   renowned 


70  THE  HISTOBICAL   GALLEBT. 

Historical  Gallery,  which  well  repays  a  visit. 
They  have,  among  the  multitude  of  wax  figures, 
busts  of  a  few  noted  Americans,  among  them 
"Washington,  Lincoln,  Johnson,  Grant,  Garfield, 
and  others,  and  there  is  not  a  respectable  rep- 
resentation of  any  one  that  has  been  named. 
They  are  mere  caricatures ;  and  an  American, 
looking  at  them,  would  siniJe  or  be  indignant 
as  the  mood  took  him.  Having  a  reader's 
ticket,  some  days  were  spent  in  the  British 
Museum  in  historical  research.  At  my  hotel  a 
pleasure  was  afforded  by  meeting  one  of  my 
fellow-passengers  on  the  City  of  New  York, 
and  our  wanderings  in  town  were  enjoyable. 
My  name  happened  to  appear  in  the  London 
edition  of  the  New  York  Herald,  and  as  London 
merchants  are  desirous  of  looking  at  American 
money,  circulars  from  them,  soliciting  my  pat- 
ronage, flowed  in  upon  me  as  waters  flow  to 
the  sea. 

The  time  came  for  me  to  leave  the  great, 
home-like  city  of  London,  which  I  love  so  well. 
Taking  the  train  at  Charing  Cross  station,  I 
went  to  Chiselhurst.  It  is  most  charmingly 
situated,  and  woods  everywhere  abound.  But 
a  short  distance  from  the  station  is  the  former 
home  of  Napoleon  IH  and  the  Empress  Eugenie 
after  the  disastrous  war  with  Germany.     There 


THE  EMPEROR  AT  CHISELHURST.  71 

he  died  in  1873,  and  there  his  remains,  with 
those  of  his  son,  killed  in  "Zulu  Land  "  in  1879, 
remained  in  a  chapel  for  several  years,  and 
afterward  were  remoA^ed  to  Farnsborough  Hill, 
the  present  home  of  Eugenie,  who  erected  for 
them  a  costly  mausoleum.  Chiselhurst  is  full  of 
charming  homes,  and  is  itself  one  of  the  sweet- 
est, fairest  places  in  the  County  of  Kent,  which 
is  one  of  the  fairest  counties  in  Merrie  England. 

In  the  afternoon  of  a  summer's  day  I  reached 
Seven  Oaks,  a  prettily  situated  town  of  about 
seven  thousand  people.  Taking  a  "fly,"  I  was 
driven  to  Ightham  (formerly  Eightham),  five 
miles  distant,  through  a  country  of  hill,  dale, 
and  attractive  homes,  which  were  pleasing  to 
the  eye  and  full  of  interest.  It  lies  in  the 
hundred  of  Wrotham,  and  derives  its  name 
from  eight  hams,  or  boroughs,  which  lie  within 
it  or  on  its.  border.  Two  old  British  encamp- 
ments exist  in  this  place.  One  of  them  can 
hardly  be  surpassed  in  Great  Britain.  From  a 
geological  and  archaeological  point  of  view, 
Ightham  and  vicinity  is  one  of  the  most  inter- 
esting localities  in  Great  Britain,  for  there  have 
been  found  some  of  the  rarest  specimens  of 
ancient  stone  implements  and  in  the  most  ex- 
traordinary situations. 

Benjamin  Harrison  of  Ightham,  a  self-taught 


72  ANCIENT  STONE  IMPLEMENTS. 

man,  has  contributed  the  newest  and  most  re- 
markable chapter  in  the  history  of  flint  instru- 
ments. He  has  himself  found  more  than  four 
hundred  in  seven  vears,  and  some  of  them  in 
gravel  beds  at  a  height  of  six  hundred  feet ; 
proving,  as  some  geologists  claim,  that  in  a 
remote  period  the  rivers  ran  from  two  hundred 
and  fifty  to  six  hundred  feet  higher  than  at 
the  present.  The  vast  antiquity  of  man  has 
been  demonstrated  by  these  discoveries  and 
similar  ones.  It  was  my  privilege  to  make  the 
acquaintance  of  Mr.  Harrison,  to  spend  an  even- 
ing with  him  in  his  comfortable  home  ;  and  it  is 
a  source  of  satisfaction  to  him  to  know  that  his 
valuable  work  has  been  recognized  by  the  lead- 
ing scientists  of  Great  Britain. 

Within  three  miles  of  Ightham  is  a  great 
curiosity,  a  circle  of  Druidical  stones;  and  less 
than  two  miles  away,  Mr.  Horace  Wilkinson 
has  in  his  possession  the  skull  of  Oliver  Crom- 
well, which  he  delights  to  show  to  interested 
visitors.  The  village  of  Ightham  is  one  of  the 
rarest,  quaintest  places  in  all  England,  and  lies 
beneath  an  overhanging  hill.  The  inn,  erected 
in  1515,  is  after  the  ancient  English  fashion^ 
—  very  old,  very  odd,  very  comfortable.  My 
stay  at  "The  George  and  Dragon,"  where  the 
sloping  sides  of    my   bedchamber  rose  nearly 


AN  ANCIENT  ENGLISH  HOME.  73 

to  the  ridge-pole,  was  greatly  enjoyed.  Every 
moment  was  one  of  delight. 

At  Yaldham  it  was  my  privilege  to  go 
through  and  inspect  one  of  the  old  homes  of 
one  of  England's  famous  families.  The  ancient 
hall,  which  for  centuries  had  known  the  pres- 
ence of  illustrious  hosts  and  noted  guests,  was 
ornamented  upon  its  walls  by  stag's  horns,  guns, 
and  pictures,  beside  many  rare  and  curious 
things.  A  fine  neighboring  estate,  very  an- 
cient, abounding  with  noted  events,  was  con- 
nected with  lives  of  illustrious  persons.  It 
was  occupied  by  Sir  Mark  W.  Collet,  whom  it 
was  my  good  fortune  to  meet.  For  miles 
around  the  over-sweeping  gaze  takes  in  the 
beauty  of  hamlet,  vale,  and  hill,  while  the 
archiepiscopal  palace  at  Otford,  a  favorite 
residence  of  Henry  the  Eighth,  is  in  sight,  and 
also  Knockholt,  Ightham,  and  Seal.  The 
grounds  were  elegant  and  elaborately  laid  out, 
and  a  forest  of  heavy-foliaged  beeches  raised 
their  lofty  heads  high  in  the  air  and  shut  out 
the  sun,  while  the  undulating  green  fields  are 
nowhere  greener  or  brighter. 

Returning  to  Ightham,  I  was  taken  to  "  Ight- 
ham Moat,"  some  three  miles  distant.  In  all 
England  there  can  hardly  be  exhibited  a  better 
moated  manor-house.     Its  domestic  chapel  is  of 


74  IGRTHAM  MOAT. 

Henry  the  Eighth's  time,  and  is  justly  consid- 
ered very  fine.  The  manor-house  is  of  stone, 
very  ancient,  and  surrounded  by  a  moat  some 
twenty  or  more  feet  in  width,  with  water  eight 
or  nine  feet  in  depth,  which  is  brought  by 
several  streams  from  a  higher  elevation.  All 
portions  of  the  place  were  inspected.  It  was 
occupied  by  General  Palmer,  an  American,  and 
an  officer  in  our  Civil  War.  On  the  day  of  my 
visit  it  was  sold  to  a  son  of  Sir  James  Ferguson 
for  about  three-fourths  of  a  million  of  dollars. 

A  pleasant  ride  of  a  few  miles  brought  me  to 
Penshurst,  a  castle  of  magnificence,  occupied  by 
a  grandson  of  King  William  the  Fourth.  The 
ancient  hall,  which  was "  of  large  extent,  re- 
mained largely  as  in  days  long  gone.  Its  height 
is  from  the  ground  to  the  roof.  Its  walls  were 
hung  with  the  antlers  of  deer.  There  were, 
besides  guns  of  various  styles,  swords  and 
spears,  and  other  implements  and  trophies  of 
ancient  warfare.  In  the  centre  of  this  old 
banqueting  hall  was  the  place  for  the  open  fire, 
from  which  in  centuries  past  the  smoke 
ascended  to  find  its  way  through  the  roof  with- 
out the  aid  of  chimneys.  The  apartments  of 
the  castle  were  of  large  extent,  and  abounded 
with  multitudes  of  relics  of  a  past,  rich  with 
mighty  history,  and  many  memorials  of  Queen 


PENSHUEST.  75 

Elizabeth.  The  pictures  upon  the  walls,  made 
by  noted  masters  in  art,  of  the  great  and  illus- 
trious personages,  formed  one  of  the  chief  at- 
tractions of  the  place.  At  this  spot  were  born 
Sir  Philip  Sidney  and  Algernon  Sidney. 

Leaving  this  enchanting  locality,  I  took  the 
train,  going  immediately  to  Battle,  in  the 
County  of  Sussex.  A  'bus  took  me  up  the 
street  into  the  town  for  half  a  mile,  past  the 
"Battle  Abbey,"  so  famous,  to  the  George 
Hotel,  where  I  registered.  It  was  late  at 
night.  I  was  on  one  of  the  most  historic  spots 
in  English  history,  one  which  I  had  longed  to 
behold  for  many  years.  Wandering  into  the 
street,  I  went  down  by  the  Abbey,  and  in  the 
chilly  night  its  massive  stone  walls  and  towers 
frowned  gloomily  upon  me.  It  seemed  cold 
and  cheerless  there,  as  if  the  angry  souls  of 
those  who^had  gone  up  to  the  judgment  seat 
of  God  from  midst  of  battle  fray,  more  than 
eight  hundred  years  before,  had  reappeared 
and  were  haunting  those  gloomy  corridors. 
Impatient  for  the  day,  I  sought  my  room;  and 
in  that  condition  which  counterfeits  death,  but 
from  which  one  emerges  like  a  new  being, 
refreshed  and  jubilant,  the  hours  of  night 
quietly  passed  away. 


76  AT  BATTLE  ABBEY. 

With  the  dawning  of  the  morning  came  a 
drizzling  rain.  My  first  thoughts  were  of  the 
Battle  Abbey.  The  Duke  of  Cleveland  is  the 
proprietor,  who  is  represented  as  an  elegant 
gentleman.  The  public  are  admitted  only  on 
certain  days  in  the  week,  and  this  was  one  of 
the  prohibited  days.  It  was  told  me  that  no 
one  would  be  admitted,  but  I  "got  there  just 
the  same,"  not  in  a  company,  but  having  a 
guide  all  to  myself,  who  explained  each  spot. 
From  the  level  ground  of  the  elevated  terrace, 
with  its  carpet  of  the  greenest  and  closely 
cropped  grass,  we  looked  forth  to  the  Telham 
Hills,  and  the  extending  country  on  either 
side,  where  marched  the  Norman  forces,  and 
where  they  first  saw  the  troops  of  King  Harold. 
The  latter  were  posted  on  the  elevation  upon 
which  we  stood,  known  as  the  Heights  of 
Senlac.  How  beautiful  is  the  country  there ! 
Back  of  the  Telham  Hills,  beyond  the  spot 
where  the  Norman  invaders  first  appeared  to 
view,  on  a  clear  day  can  be  seen  the  swelling 
sea,  whose  heaving  waters  bore  the  restless, 
invading,  and  conquering  William  from  the 
peaceful  slopes  of  Normandy  to  the  shores  of 
Britain,  whose  kingdom  and  crown  he  sought 
a,nd  won. 


BATTLE   OF  HASTINGS.  77 

The  battle  was  fought  and  King  Harold  was 
slain  ;  his  brothers  lay  dead  beside  him  and  his 
fallen  comrades.  His  standard,  with  its  figure 
of  a  warrior  and  sparkling  with  gold  and  pre- 
cious stones,  had  been  taken,  and  in  its  place,  in 
the  autumn  twilight  of  that  battle  day  of  Oct. 
14,  10G6,  fluttered  the  consecrated  Paj^al  ban- 
ner of  William  the  Norman.  The  spot  is  still 
pointed  out,  and  I  stood  upon  it.  There  among 
the  dead  on  the  night  of  the  battle,  on  a  table 
of  stone,  was  spread  the  celebrating  feast  of  the 
Conqueror,  and  there  he  slept.  There  the  High 
Altar  stood,  while  above  it  arose  the  Battle 
Abbey,  by  command  of  William,  which  should 
keep  green  the  memory  of  the  Normans  who 
triumphed;  and  where,  too,  was  kept  the  fa- 
mous list — not  wholly  authentic,  perhaps  —  of 
the  Knights  of  Normandy  who  accompanied 
William  tp  Britain,  known  as  the  "  Battle 
Abbey  Boll."  I  went  over  all  the  grounds, 
past  the  old  cloisters  and  the  ruins  of  the  dor- 
mitory, through  the  vaulted,  arching  ways  or 
chambers.  A  garden,  beautifully  kept,  occu- 
pies a  portion  of  the  historic  ground,  while 
the  "  Cedars  of  Lebanon  "  sway  in  the  breezes 
near  where  the  High  Altar  stood. 

This  has  been  called  one  of  the  "  fifteen 
decisive  battles  of  the  world."    The  Conqueror 


78  THE  BEAD   CONQUEBOB. 

died,  and  was  entombed  in  the  grand  church  of 
St.  Stephen's,  in  Caen,  in  his  native  Normandy. 
Twice  has  it  been  rifled  and  destroyed.  A  few 
weeks  later  I  stood  in  that  church  and  upon  the 
slab  under  which  lies  all  that  remains  of  the 
great  warrior,  a  thigh-bone,  while  the  van- 
quished, knightly  Harold  rests  in  an  unknown 
grave  under  the  turf  at  Waltham,  England. 
One  could  not  but  reflect  upon  the  mutations 
of  time  and  of  human  greatness  and  splendor, 
which  vanish  so  quickly. 

Hastings  (and  St.  Leonard's,  practically  one 
town  of  fifty  thousand  people)  is  eight  miles 
distant,  finely  situated  on  a  hillside  fronting  the 
water  and  is  a  famous  summer  resort.  Its  at- 
tractiveness can  hardly  be  surpassed.  Its  sea 
front  is  three  miles  in  length,  which  is  utilized 
for  a  beautiful  walk  by  its  many  visitors.  Its 
old  ruined  castle  is  on  a  high  hill,  and  is  one  of 
the  attractions  of  the  city. 

Continuing  my  journey  from  Hastings,  I 
reached  Rye,  a  decayed  shipping  port,  situated 
on  a  hill  overlooking  a  sea  which  has  retired 
greatly,  nearly  ruining  the  harbor.  Its  name 
is  taken  from  Rye,  Normandy,  ^and  is  itself 
perpetuated  in  a  town  of  the  same  name  in 
New  Hampshire,  and  not  unlike  it  in  bordering 
on  the  sea.     It  is  a  queer  old  place,  which  well 


CANTERBUBY    CATHEDBAL.  79 

repays  a  visit.  In  the  ancient  church,  as  in 
most  churches,  were  numerous  tablets  in 
memory  of  the  beloved  dead,  with  tributes  of 
affection  carved  upon  them.  Among  them  was 
this,  which  I  copied  on  account  of  its  beauty 
of  sentiment  and  expression  :  "  Her  immortal 
soul  is  gone  to  that  bright  land  of  everlasting 
light  and  never-ending  love,  where  the  weary 
rest  in  Christ." 

On  a  Saturday  afternoon  I  registered  at  the 
"  Fleur  de  Lis,"  in  Canterbury,  County  of  Kent, 
the  ecclesiastical  metropolis  of  England,  which 
has  been  the  seat  of  an  archbishop  since  the 
sixth  century.  It  is  a  city  of  some  twenty- 
two  thousand  people,  and  is  not  to  be  com- 
pared in  many  respects  with  great  numbers 
of  English  towns.  The  stately  and  famous 
Cathedral,  which  it  would  take  pages  to 
describe,  is  the  centre  of  attraction  to  all  vis- 
itors. It  is  massive,  stately,  elegant  in  design 
and  embellishment.  There  I  twice  attended 
services,  which,  I  am  compelled  to  say,  were  of 
a  most  prosy,  uninteresting  character. 

The  narrow  streets  of  Canterbury  are  not 
pleasant,  although  there  are  points  of  interest 
in  the  city.  But  to  me  the  place  was  a  dis- 
appointment, and  I  was  not  unwilling  to  leave 
it  and   go    to    the  cheerier  Rochester,   on  the 


80  Olf    THE  MEDWAY  BIVEB. 

banks  of  the  clear  waters  of  the  Medway 
River.  The  route  lay  through  one  of  the 
greatest  hop-growing  sections  of  England. 
There  were  acres  upon  acres  on  each  side  of 
our  way,  and  they  looked  very  beautiful  that 
sunny  afternoon.  In  the  evening  I  reached 
that  cheerful  city  on  the  Medway. 


CHAPTER     VII. 

GOING    TO    THE   FAK   NORTHLAND. 

Rochester  is  a  very  ancient  place,  and  has 
been  successively  inhabited  by  the  Britons, 
Romans,  Saxons,  and  the  Normans.  It  "was 
made  a  bishop's  see  in  the  seventh  century. 
Its  castle  stands  upon  a  high  eminence,  and  is 
the  finest  that  I  saw  in  Great  Britain,  save 
Edinburgh.  It  was  built  in  1126-1139,  by  Will- 
iam Corbeil,  Archbishop  of  Canterbury.  The 
keep  rises  one  hundred  and  four  feet  from 
the  ground,  is  reached  by  stairs,  and  is  of 
Norman  architecture.  It  was  toward  evening 
when  I  visited  it.  From  a  flagstaff  at  that 
height  in  a  stiff  breeze  gayly  floated  the  lordly 
flag  of  Great  Britain.  Thick  green  ivy  orna- 
mented the  ruinous  walls,  obscuring  much  of 
their  brokenness.  The  entrance  to  the  castle  is 
through  a  perfect  arch  in  a  ruinous  wall  of 
massive  thickness,  and  tall  trees,  with  their 
dense  and  glorious  foliage,  combined  to  make 
the  ruin  and  its  surroundings  one  of  the  grandest 
in  the  four  kingdoms.  In  its  front,  on  the 
banks  of  the  river  and  beneath  overhanging 
trees,  was  a  lovely  walk,  which  was  frequented 


82  BOCHESTER   CASTLE. 

by  many  admirers.  I  ascended  to  the  top  of 
the  castle  and  feasted  my  eyes  on  the  beauties 
of  the  glorious  landscape.  The  Medway  River 
was  before  and  beneath  me,  flowing  broad  and 
full  through  undulating  lands  which  rise  gently 
to  the  surrounding  elevations.  Over  its  bosom 
all  kinds  of  craft  were  plying,  while  from  the 
shore  a  pier  penetrated  to  the  deep  waters. 
For  miles  about  the  country  was  spread  like  a 
map  beneath  me, — fields,  river,  trees,  towns, 
and  cities,  —  while  at  the  castle's  base  were 
walks  and  gardens  laid  out  with  artistic  precis- 
ion, radiant  in  brilliancy  and  sweet  with  the 
aroma  of  flowers. 

Chatham,  combined  with  Rochester,  makes 
really  one  city.  It  has  some  seven  thousand 
people,  is  a  very  important  naval  arsenal  and 
military  station,  and  is  situated  on  the  Med- 
way River.  My  comfortable  quarters  were  in 
an  historic  hostelry,  —  The  Mitre,  —  in  Chat- 
ham. It  is  a  roomy,  old-fashioned,  quaint,  and 
cosy  English  inn,  such  as  we  read  about  as  exist- 
ing scores  of  years  ago.  The  roof  is  flat,  the 
rooms  are  low  studded,  with  solid  oaken  beams 
in  view.  There  are  wide  corridors  and  stair- 
cases, bedrooms  with  ancient  fireplaces,  cup- 
boards and  panelling.  It  was  the  headquar- 
ters of  Lord  Nelson  for  weeks  in   1793,  and 


THE    MITRE.  83 

later  of  the  Duke  of  Clarence,  afterward  King 
William  IV,  and  of  Dickens  and  Wilkie  Collins 
and  many  other  noted  personages.  In  the 
prime  of  his  powers,  Dickens  thus  writes : 
"  The  silent  High  Street  of  Rochester  is  lull  of 
gables,  with  old  beams  and  timbers  carved  with 
strange  faces.  It  is  oddly  garnished  wnth  a 
queer  old  clock  that  projects  over  the  pave- 
ment out  of  a  grave  red-brick  building,  as  if 
Time  carried  on  business^  there  and  hung  out 
his  sign.  Sooth  to  say,  he  did  an  active  stroke 
of  work  in  Rochester  in  the  days  of  the  Romans 
and  the  Saxons  and  the  Normans,  and  down  to 
the  times  of  King  John,  when  the  ragged  castle, 
I  will  not  undertake  to  say  how  many  hundred 
years  old  then,  was  abandoned  to  the  centuries 
of  weather  which  had  so  defaced  the  dark  aper- 
tures in  its  walls  that  the  ruin  looks  as  if  the 
rooks  and  the  daws  had  picked  its  eyes  out." 
In  speaking  of  "The  Mitre"  in  1858,  he  said: 
"There  was  an  inn  in  the  Cathedral  (?)  town 
where  I  went  to  school  that  had  pleasanter 
recollections  about  it  than  any  of  these.  .  .  . 
It  had  an  ecclesiastical  sign.  .  .  .  The  Mitre 
and  a  bar,  that  seemed  to  be  the  next 
thing  to  a  bishopric,  it  was  so  snug.  I  loved 
the  landlord's  youngest  daughter  to  distraction 
—  but  let  that  pass.     It  was  in  that  inn  that  I 


84  THE   MITBE. 

was  cried  over  by  my  rosy  little  .sister  because 
I  had  acquired  a  black  eye  in  a  fight,  and 
though  she  had  been,  that  holly-tree  night,  for 
many  a  long  year  where  all  tears  are  dried,  the 
Mitre  softened  me  yet." 

Beautiful  and  extensive  grounds  are  in  the 
rear  of  the  hotel,  which  add  a  wondrous  charm 
to  the  place.  This  famous  hostelry  is  much  as 
it  was  when  frequented  by  the  great  English 
novelist.  Its  grounds  remain  as  they  were,  a 
surprise  and  a  delight  to  the  stranger.  "  None 
of  the  old  rooms  were  ever  pulled  down ;  no  old 
tree  was  ever  rooted  up ;  nothing  with  which 
there  was  any  association  of  bygone  times  was 
ever  removed  or  changed." 

Home  again  in  London !  How  homelike  it 
seemed  ;  how  restful  after  my  wanderings.  It 
always  seems  to  give  a  greeting  of  warmth 
and  cheer  to  the  weary  traveller.  My  mail  met 
m,e  here,  with  letters  and  papers  from  the  New 
World.  Leaving  the  city  I  loved  so  well,  my 
wanderings  led  to  Chelmsford,  in  the  County 
of  Essex,  thirty  miles  northeast  of  London, 
and  containing  ten  thousand  people.  It  is  the 
county  town,  and  uninteresting  and  unattrac- 
tive. From  this  section  of  Old  England  came 
a  great  many  of  the  first  settlers  of  JVew  Eng- 
land, about  two  and  a  half  centuries  ago^  carry- 


OLD  KING   COLE.  85 

ing  the  names  of  their  old  homes  with  which  to 
christen  their  abodes  in  the  New  World.  Near 
by  was  Billerica,  then  Brentwood,  Epping,  Wal- 
tham,  and  Braintree,  in  the  County  of  Essex, 
while  in  the  next  County  of  Suffolk  were  Ips- 
wich, Haverhill,  Sudbury,  Orford,  and  other 
towns  whose  names  are  familiar  as  household 
words  to  every  intelligent  New-Englander. 

In  Colchester,  County  of  Essex,  I  registered 
at  "The  Three  Cups,"  an  old  hostelry,  very  com- 
fortable and  attractive.  The  city  is  fifty-two 
miles  from  the  great  heart-centre  of  England, 
contains  about  twenty-nine  thousand  people, 
and  has  many  remains  to  interest  the  antiqua- 
rian tourist, — indeed,  few  places  furnish  a  finer 
field  for  investigation. 

Old  King  Cole, 
A  jolly  old  soul, 
^       A  jolly  old  soul  was  he, 

was,  whether  myth  or  real,  by  legends  or  by 
actual  deeds  or  facts,  inseparably  connected 
with  Colchester.  To  this  day  is  still  pointed 
out  "  King  Coel's  Kitchen,"  not  many  score 
of  years  ago  a  certain  pump  was  known  as 
"Iving  Coel's  Pump,"  and  the  renowned  castle 
was  called  "  King  Coel's  Hall." 

The  castle  is  of  imposing  dimensions,  its  walls 
of  great  thickness,  and,  like  the  walls  of  Roch- 


86      EIGHT  HTJNDEED  YEABS  OF  STOEM. 

ester  Castle,  were  made  with  a  cement  of  suck 
hardness  and  durability  that  dynamite  is  said 
to  be  used  in  their  demolition.  Within  this 
strong  fortress  is  a  museum,  with  many  urns 
containing  the  bones  and  ashes  of  Roman  dead. 
Some  of  these  urns  were  enclosed  in  tall  jars, 
from  which  the  tops  could  be  removed.  One 
church  in  the  place  is  built  largely  of  Roman 
tiles,  which  are  more  durable  than  stone.  Eight 
hundred  years  of  heat  and  cold,  of  howling 
wind  and  beating  storm,  have  made  no  impres- 
sion upon  them,  while  they  protrude  sharply 
beyond  the  worn-away  stone  by  which  they  are 
surrounded.  The  remains  of  the  Roman  wall& 
are  the  finest  specimens  of  the  kind  left  by  the 
Romans  in  England.  After  visiting  St.  John's 
Abbey  Gate,  St.  Botolph's  Priory  Church,  and 
other  noted  places,  my  journey  was  resumed  to 
Ipswich,  in  Suffolk  County.  Here  and  at  Bury 
St.  Edmunds  many  of  the  probate  records  of 
the  county  are  kept,  which  I  consulted. 

Ipswich  is  an  attractive  place  to  the  stranger^ 
with  tile-roofed  houses,  has  fifty-one  thousand 
people,  is  situated  on  the  River  Orwell,  and 
from  it  sailed  Massachusetts  emigrants  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  and  more  years  since.  Cardinal 
Wolsey  was  born  there.  Going  to  Stowe 
Market,    I    visited    the    parish  of  Rattlesden^ 


A  NEW  PHASE   OF  LIFE.  87 

stopping  at  "The  Five  Bells,"  a  little  house  with 
tile  roof.  It  could  not  be  called  a  hotel,  but  a 
public,  and  was  the  only  place  of  entertain- 
ment in  that  straggling  little  village.  In  the 
evening,  the  village  schoolmaster,  a  soldier 
who  had  been  at  Sebastopol  and  India,  and 
other  dignitaries  of  the  village,  congregated  in 
the  small  sitting-room,  seating  themselves  on 
'the  wooden  benches  around  the  table,  where 
they  smoked,  told  stories,  discussed  politics, 
and  drank  their  whiskey  or  cups  of  ale,  after 
the  manner  of  Tam  O'Shanter  and  his  cronies. 
It  was  a  new  phase  of  life  to  me,  and  afforded 
me  amusement.  The  day  following,  when  call- 
ing upon  the  rector  of  the  Episcopal  Church 
in  one  of  the  parishes  visited,  two  kinds  of 
wine  with  other  things  were  brought  forward 
for  my  entertainment. 

I  visited  the  parishes  of  Hitcham,  Buxhall, 
and  then  went  to  Norwich,  County  of  Norfolk, 
putting  up  at  the  "Maid's  Head."  It  is  the 
capital  of  the  county,  has  ninety  thousand  peo- 
ple, narrow,  winding  streets,  many  manufac- 
tories, an  old  castle  on  a  high  elevation,  and  a 
magnificent  cathedral.  The  latter  is  over  four 
hundred  feet  in  length,  very  wide,  very  high, 
was  begun  in  1096,  and  ranks  among  the  finest 
buildings  of    its  kind  in  England.     From  the 


88  BEAUTIFUL    CAMBRIDGE. 

top  of  the  castle  the  city  was  spread  out  before 
me,  and  was  red  with  the  roofs  of  tile ;  while 
far  beyond  were  green  tracts  with  trees,  and 
fields  of  waving  grain  ripening  in  the  autumn 
sun.  My  stay  at  Bury  St.  Edmunds  was  short, 
though  it  is  a  pleasing  place. 

On  arriving  at  Cambridge,  I  registered  at  the 
"Bull"  Hotel.  It  is  situated  on  the  River  Cam, 
has  thirty-five  thousand  people,  and,  to  my 
mind,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  cities  in 
England.  More  lovely  than  Oxford,  the  lawns 
and  grounds  near  the  colleges  are  hard  to  rival 
in  beauty.  The  trees  are  hoary  with  age,  and 
beneath  their  grateful  shade  have  rambled 
many  of  England's  illustrious  sons.  Upon  the 
river  were  numbers  of  sporting  boats,  many  of 
them  dexterously  handled  by  ladies.  Of  the 
famous  University  it  is  needless  to  speak,  for  its 
history  is  known  throughout  the  world  by  the 
lives  and  record  of  its  sons. 

My  ste23S  were  now  turned  to  the  far  North- 
land, to  the  storm-beaten  shores  of  the  Pentland 
Firth,  that  narrow  ocean's  arm  which  divides  the 
County  of  Caithness,  the  most  northern  point 
of  the  mainland  of  Scotland,  from  the  Orkney 
Islands.  On  the  route  many  noted  places  in 
England,  and  Scotland,  my  fatherland,  were  to 
be  seen  and  visited.     On  leaving   Cambridge, 


BIRTHPLACE   OF  OLIVER    CROMWELL.     89 

that  place  so  lovely,  and  of  which  so  many 
pleasant  remembrances  linger  with  me,  my 
journey  led  me  to  Huntington,  the  birthplace 
of  Oliver  Cromwell ;  then  to  Ramsay,  a  small, 
funny  old  town,  with  one  principal  street,  with 
a  few  small  shops  and  many  hostelries,  odd  in 
looks  and  apjDcarance,  mtli  odder  names.  There 
were  "  The  Seven  Stars,"  "  The  Boat  and  An- 
chor," "  The  Spotted  Dog,"  and  others  of  simi- 
lar designations.  Thatched  roofs  abounded  in 
the  village,  which  was  far  from  attractive. 
Upland  was  three  miles  from  this  place.  On 
the  way  north  we  had  a  fine  view  of  Peter- 
borough, as  we  passed  through  it,  and  of  its 
celebrated  cathedral,  one  of  the  most  important 
churches  of  Norman  architecture  in  England. 

On  my  arrival  at  the  ancient  city  of  Notting- 
ham, I  became  the  guest  of  "  The  George 
Hotel."  'I  had  passed  some  fine  agricultural 
districts,  with  great  fields,  good  crops,  and  the 
great  reapers  harvesting  the  golden  grain. 
Nottingham  is  a  city  of  two  hundred  and  thirty 
thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  most  pleasantly  situ- 
ated on  the  side  of  a  steep  elevation.  The  hill 
itself  is  of  sandstone,  rapidly  worked,  and  ex- 
cavations in  it  are  easily  and  quickly  made.  In 
this  place  the  poet,  Henry  Kirk  White,  was  born 
in  1785.     It  is  very  attractive,  and  well  repays 


90  NOTTINGHAM   CASTLE. 

any  one  for  a  visit.  The  Market  Place,  covering^ 
several  acres,  is  a  perfect  hive  for  trafficking  in 
all  kinds  of  merchandise.  The  Castle  is  the 
great  point  of  interest,  situated,  as  it  is,  on  a 
high  and  precipitous  rock,  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  above  and  overlooking  the  River 
Lene.  It  is  an  edifice  of  vastness,  and  from 
the  roof  I  had  a  magnificent  view  of  rivers 
flowing  through  undulating  and  fertile  mead- 
ows of  the  country  beyond,  and  the  fine  build- 
ings, and  all  others,  of  the  great,  busy  city 
itself.  I  examined  the  many  rare  curiosities 
in  the  rooms  of  the  elegant  museum  kept  in  the 
castle.  In  1330  King  Edward  III  surprised 
and  took  this  fortress  by  a  secret  passage 
now  known  as  "  Mortimer's  Hole."  From  the 
terrace,  as  the  day  was  clear  and  sunny,  there 
spread  out  before  me  the  valley  of  the  River 
Trent,  fair  and  lovely.  The  entrance  to 
"  Mortimer's  Hole"  is  through  a  wicket  gate  in 
the  terrace  wall.  The  guide  led  the  way  down 
through  a  winding,  circuitous,  and  constantly 
descending  pathway,  cut  in  the  soft  sandstone 
of  which  the  hill  is  formed,  to  the  very  base  of 
the  cliff.  As  we  descended,  rooms  were  discern- 
ible at  the  sides,  cut  in  the  rock.  At  this 
castle,  in  1642,  Charles  I  unfurled  his  standard, 
to  which  the  people  of  the  surrounding  country 


IN  LEEDS.  91 

did  not  flock  with  that  enthusiasm  and  alacrity 
which  the  perjured  and  recreant  King  had 
expected. 

The  time  spent  in  Nottingham  was  of  un- 
alloyed enjoyment.  Leaving  there,  a  swift 
train,  in  about  two  hours'  time,  bore  me  ninety 
miles  distant,  through  a  luxuriant  country, 
thriving  villages,  and  bustling  cities,  to  the 
solid,  substantial,  wealthy,  and  smoky  city  of 
Leeds,  in  the  County  of  York.  An  English 
friend,  whose  acquaintance  had  been  made 
years  before,  met  me  at  the  station  and  took 
me  to  his  hospitable  and  lovely  home  at  Adel, 
one  of  the  suburbs  of  the  city,  where  I  spent 
the  Sabbath.  I  attended  divine  services  in  the 
small  Episcopal  Church  in  Adel,  built  some 
eight  hundred  years  ago.  Near  it  is  the  little 
rustic  churchyard,  where  the  denizens  of  that 
locality  h^ave  for  long  years  laid  their  dead 
away, —  a  quiet  spot,  sanctified  by  many  tears 
and  sacred  to  many  loving  hearts.  '  There,  too, 
were  evidences  of  ancient  sepulture,  for  there 
were  old  Roman  cofhns  of  stone  upon  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground,  and  in  the  locality  are  many 
remains  of  the  Roman  regim^.  This  visit  was 
a  season  of  delight,  for  it  gave  me  an  intro- 
duction to  an  English  home,  where  the  attrac- 
tive members  of  his  family  were   as  kind,  as 


92  AN  ENGLISH  HOME. 

free,  and  as  cordial  as  himself.  "  Mine  host  '^ 
was  a  loyal  Englishman,  of  fine  powers  of  mind, 
progressive,  or  rather  a  radical  in  his  political 
views  and  modes  of  thought,  a  great  admirer  of 
America  and  American  institutions,  of  which 
he  had  made  a  careful  study,  and  was  not  frugal 
in  his  admiration  of  some  of  our  distinguished 
Americans.  He  was  one  of  the  committee  of 
the  city  of  Leeds  to  receive  the  Shah  of  Persia, 
a  few  weeks  before  my  advent.  That  Eastern 
potentate  was  not  free  and  easy  in  his  manner 
of  receiving  people.  AVhen  one  of  the  most  in- 
fluential and  worthy  citizens,  was  presented  to 
him,  the  Shah  stood  as  stiff  and  impassive  as  a 
pillar  of  stone,  did  not  comprehend  the  character 
and  quality  of  the  indi\T.dual,  and  moved  away  I 
At  Adel,  the  country,  like  multitudes  of 
places  in  that  land,  is  beautiful.  From  the 
grounds  of  "  mine  host,"  a  short  distance  away, 
was  a  wooded  hill,  surmounted  by  an  elegant 
residence  of  stone,  with  a  tower  of  the  same, 
which  cropped  out  fancifully  from  among  the 
heavy  foliage  of  trees,  and  which  gave  an 
added  charm  to  the  attractions  of  the  land- 
scape. American  relatives  were  met  in  York, 
where  my  stay  was  only  for  a  few  hours,  as 
Glasgow  was  my  next  objective  point.  A  few 
miles  southeast  of  York  is  Beverly  and  Sutton  - 
and   eight   northwest   of    Hull,  on   the    River 


OOIIfG  NOBTHWARD.  95 

Hiimber,  is  the  hamlet  of  Rowley,  which  is 
five  miles  from  Broiigh  station,  on  the  North- 
eastern Railway.  In  that  parish  is  the  ivy-cov- 
ered, weather-beaten  church  in  which  preached 
Rev.  Ezekiel  Rogers.  In  1638  he,  and  twenty 
families  from  that  parish,  "for  opinion's  sake" 
emigrated  to  America  (among  them  my  ances- 
tor, Leonard  Harriman),  and  founded  the  town 
of  Rowley,  Massachusetts.  They  brought  the 
name  of  their  old  home  across  the  sea,  and 
gave  it  to  their  new  home  in  the  American 
wilderness.  Their  descendants  are  numerous 
in  New  England  and  the  Great  West  to-day. 

Going  almost  directly  North,  through  the 
County  of  York,  then  through  the  County  of 
Durham  and  the  city  of  the  same  name,  I 
beheld  its  cathedral  and  castle,  the  latter 
erected  in  the  year  1072.  Afterward  I  passed 
through  Newcastle- on -Tyne,  so  dark  and 
smoky,  while  the  great  barges  filled  with  coal 
covered  the  surface  of  the  river.  I  went 
through  the  whole  length  of  the  County  of 
Northiunberland  in  its  northeasterly  section, 
going  over  a  noted  bridge,  and  entered  Berwick- 
on-Tweed,  in  the  once  "debatable "  country.  It 
was  for  centuries  the  subject  of  war  between 
England  and  Scotland,  is  now  a  city  of  about 
fifteen  thousand  souls,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
northern  points  of  England. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

IN   31  r   FATHERL.O'D. 

Passing  through  the  County  of  Berwick 
in  Scotland,  and  a  portion  of  the  County  of 
Haddington,  I  arrived  at  Dunbar.  Before 
reaching  it  we  passed  the  old  battle-field  of 
Dunbar,  where  Cromwell  defeated  the  Scots  in 
1650.  The  route  from  Berwick  had  been 
through  a  romantic  country,  and  the  latter 
portion  of  the  journey  had  been  along  the 
shore  of  the  North  Sea,  where  its  waters,  with 
the  beetling  cliffs,  which  they  lashed  in  their 
fury,  were  plainlj^  in  view. 

Passing  through  Edinburgh,  I  went  directly 
to  Glasgow,  stopping  at  the  St.  Enoch's  Hotel. 
My  time  was  spent  largely  in  public  offices, 
libraries,  and  in  meeting  persons  of  antiquarian 
tastes.  The  place  was  famiUar,  and  no  time 
Avas  used  in  sightseeing.  A  pleasant  evening 
was  enjoyed  mth  friends  there  in  an  attractive 
home.  In  Edinburgh,  it  was  a  great  pleasure  to 
meet  former  acquaintances,  and  to  accept  their 
hospitality  in  their  family  retreats.  There  I  had 
the  pleasure  of  a  call  from  Robert  Bruce  Arm- 
strong, of  Dublin,  Ireland,  the  author  of  "The 


THE   TEN-MILE  BIDE.  95 

History  of  Liddesdale,"  etc.,  a  very  valuable 
historical  work  of  the  "  Debatable  Land,"  on 
the  border  of  England,  wherein  is  given  much 
history  of  different  clans  and  border  warfare. 
On  a  sunny  Saturday  afternoon  a  friend  took 
me  in  his  "trap"  ten  miles  into  the  country. 
The  Pentland  Hills  and  Arthur's  Seat  were  in 
full  view,  and  loomed  up  finely  against  the 
sky.  The  road  was  smooth  and  solid,  the 
surroundings  of  Edinburgh  excellent,  and  the 
country  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Buchan,  to  which 
we  went,  was  retired  and  beautiful.  It  lies  in 
Almondel,  in  the  County  of  Linlithgow.  I 
visited  Roslin,  which  was  familiar.  I  attended 
services  in  St.  Giles's  Church,  where  the  singing 
was  excellent,  but  where  the  pulpit  perform- 
ances of  the  clergyman  were  supremely  ridicu- 
lous, and  the  tones  of  his  voice,  the  swaying 
to  and  fro -of  his  body,  were  most  "strange,  un- 
natural." A  little  Scotch  lassie  said  she  loved  to 
attend  evening  services  at  St.  Giles's  because  "it 
was  cheerier  there  than  at  other  places ;  they 
had  lots  of  singing  and  music."  One  afternoon 
I  had  the  pleasure  of  accidentally  meeting 
Prof.  C.  C.  Rounds,  principal  of  the  Normal 
School  at  Plymouth,  New  Hampshire. 

One  of  the  greatest  triumphs  of  engineering 
skill  is  at  Edinburgh,  in  the  Forth  Bridge.     The 


96  THE  FOBTH  BBIDGE. 

total  space  spanned  is  more  than  a  mile  and  a 
half,  including  the  approaches  to  the  bridge  ► 
The  towers  rise  three  hundred  and  sixty  feet 
above  high-water  mark.  It  is  a  wonderful  work^ 
and  from  the  shore  is  a  most  striking  sight.  A 
boat  bore  us  over  the  waters  beneath  and  around 
it,  and  the  huge  superstructure  reared  its 
gigantic  form  far  in  the  air  above  us.  The 
coach  ride  back  to  Edinburgh  was  anything 
but  pleasant,  for  it  was  made  in  a  drenching 
rain. 

Leaving  this  gem  of  Scotland,  I  went  North ; 
passed  through  to  Sterling,  one  of  the  most 
interesting  places  in  all  the  country  to  the 
lover  of  history,  and  which  has  been  described 
by  me  in  a  former  work.  A  person  once  asked 
a  Scotchman,  one  of  its  citizens,  the  distance 
from  Sterling  to  the  sea,  to  follow  the  tortuous 
and  beautiful  windings  of  the  River  Forth. 

"  It  is  a  good  bit  of  a  distance  to  go  as  the 
crow  flies,""  was  the  answer. 

"  Well !  To  go  as  the  Forth  runs,  what  is  the 
distance  ?" 

"Ay!  It  is  about  seven  times  as  far  as  it 
would  be  by  the  way  the  crow  flies !  " 

My  way  north  led  me  through  Perth,  Duukeld, 
Kingussie,  Granton,  Nairn,  and  then  to  the  gem 
of    the  Highlands,  Inverness,  where   I  was  a 


A    TBEELESS    COUNTET.  97 

guest  at  the  Station  Hotel,  a  very  comfortable 
and  cheery  place.  In  this  city  old  friends  were 
met,  where  my  greeting  was  most  cordial  and 
kind. 

The  rest  of  my  journey  northward  led  me 
through  the  Counties  of  Ross,  Sutherland,  and 
Caithness,  to  me  an  unexplored  locality,  one  of 
diversified  and  romantic  scenery.  The  rain  fell 
in  torrents  during  the  journey,  yet  it  was  one 
of  great  enjoyment.  The  heather  was  in  full 
bloom,  and  covered  the  hillsides  with  a  beauti- 
ful purple.  For  long  distances  the  mountains 
were  bare  except  as  covered  by  this  mantle  of 
beauty.  Vast  tracts  of  territory  were  passed 
over  where  not  a  tree  existed.  At  night,  the 
train  whirled  into  the  station  in  Thurso,  when 
I  was  immediately  driven  to  the  Royal  Hotel, 
where  the  entertainment  was  royal.  Such 
juicy  mutton  chops  as  they  furnished  I  have 
never  seen  equalled.  They  were  liberal  in  size 
and  of  exquisite  flavor.  The  mutton  was  of 
fine  breeds,  fattened  upon  the  sweet  grasses 
and  the  fresh  heather  of  the  mountains,  which 
had  imparted  to  it  a  rich,  wild,  peculiar  flavor 
which  cannot  be  surpassed  by  any  mutton  in 
the  world. 

That  was  my  farthest  point  north.  Every- 
thing seemed  strange  in  that  far   North-land. 


98  AT   ULBSTEB    CASTLE. 

Rain  never  fell  faster  nor  beat  against  habita- 
tion heavier  than  it  did  in  Thurso.  The  wind 
blew  furiously,  and  never  was  its  touch  more 
penetrating  or  chillier.  The  city  is  a  small  one 
of  several  thousand  people,  and  it  is  the  birth- 
place of  Gen.  Arthur  St.  Clair,  the  not  over 
successful  commander  of  American  troops  in 
the  war  of  the  American  Revolution. 

From  this  port  steamers  constantly  ply  to 
Stromness,  in  the  Orkney  Islands.  The  fine 
old  castle  of  Ulbster,  recently  modernized,  and 
said  to  have  been  built  about  1660,  by  George 
Sinclair,  the  sixth  Earl  of  Caithness,  is  situated 
amid  grounds  well  laid  out,  and  approached 
through  groves  planted  by  human  hands. 
The  castle  is  situated  near  the  mouth  of  the 
river.  An  early  writer  says :  "  In  stormy 
weather,  the  sea  spray  has  sometimes  j)assed 
over  the  roof.  Fish  have  been  caught  from 
the  drawing-room  window,  and  vessels  have 
been  wrecked  so  close  under  the  turrets  that  the 
cries  of  the  drowning  sailors  could  be  heard." 
It,  with  the  vast  estate  of  sixty  thousand  acres, 
belongs  to  Sir  J.  L.  Tollmache  Sinclair,  a  de- 
scendant of  one  of  the  Norman  knights  who 
came  to  Britain  in  1066  with  William  the  Con- 
queror. He,  and  his  fathers  before  him,  for 
generations,    were    members    of     Parliament. 


OLD   FAMILY  TOBTBAITS.  99 

This  is  the  country  seat  of  the  family.  There 
General  Grant  was  royally  entertained  during 
his  visit  at  Thurso.  It  was  my  pleasure  to 
meet  the  family,  except  Sir  Tollmache,  wlio 
was  in  London.  Among  those  whom  I  met 
were  his  son,  Maj.  Clarence  G.  Sinclair,  and 
Archdeacon  Rev.  William  Macdonald  Sinclair, 
Chaplain  to  the  Queen,  and  Vicar  of  St. 
Stephen's  Church,  Westminster,  London,  Eng- 
land. 

At  lunch  I  saw  several  ladies,  of  collateral 
branches  of  the  family.  The  greatest  courtesy 
and  kindness  were  shown  me.  These  old  and 
historic  castles  are  of  amazing  interest  to  people 
of  America,  where  such  things  do  not  exist, 
but  who  have  known  of  them  in  story  and  song. 
All  parts  of  the  castle  were  shown  me  by  Rev. 
Mr.  Sinclair.  From  the  walls  of  one  or  more 
large  rooms  hung  the  portraits  of  members  of 
the  family  since  1650.  From  those  gilded 
frames  many  noted  men,  long  since  dead,  looked 
forth  upon  us.  In  other  apartments  were 
trophies  of  the  chase,  as  evidenced  in  the  antlers 
of  deer,  while  in  close  proximity  old  armor, 
guns,  and  weapons  of  defence  were  everywhere 
apparent.  We  went  to  the  top  of  the  castle 
and  a  wondrous  view  was  given  us !  In  the 
distance,  over  the  turbulent  waters,  we  saw  the 
mountains  in  Orkney. 


100  MOUNTAINS  IN   OBKNEY. 

Far  rocks  on  rocks,  in  mist  and  storm  arrayed, 
Stretched  far  to  sea  their  giant  colonnade, 

while  nearer  to  us  the  precipitous  sides  of  a 
rocky  coast  terminated  to  our  vision  in  the 
bold,  high  promontories  of  Holborn,  three  miles 
distant,  and  Dunnet  Head,  whose  elevated  crests 
of  three  hundred  feet  in  wind  and  storm  are 
beaten  by  the  ocean's  spray. 

Leaving  this  remarkably  interesting  castle, 
and  the  kind  and  courteous  ladies  and  gentlemen 
whom  I  met  there,  I  went  from  Thurso  to 
Watten,  where  I  met  the  Rev.  Mr.  Gunn,  an 
intelligent  gentleman,  and  one  thoroughly  con- 
versant with  the  ancient  and  present  history  of 
the  Gunn  family.  It  is  a  curious  fact  that  at 
the  present  day,  in  Scotland,  the  lines  of  the 
ancient  races  are  yet  discernible,  and  that,  in 
some  localities,  the  descendants  of  the  old  Norse 
and  Danish  inhabitants  can  be  determined  by 
their  names,  their  physical  build,  and  mental 
characteristics.  From  his  home,  as  there  was 
no  conveyance,  I  went  afoot  for  several  miles. 
The  road  was  hard,  level,  and  lined  mth  hedges ; 
the  fields  were  great  stretches  of  treeless  land, 
covered  with  flocks  and  herds,  with  occasionally 
a  small  house  or  shooting  lodge. 

My  pedestrian  tour  was  in  the  afternoon. 
The  sky  became  overspread  with  rapidly  shifting 


A    CHILLING   BIDE.  101 

clouds,  a  wind,  cold  and  chilling,  beat  against 
me,  impeding  my  progress,  and  when  my  desti- 
nation at  Newton-Watten  was  reached,  the  rain 
was  rapidly  falling.  Mine  host,  Mr.  Hector 
McKay,  was  a  young  farmer,  who  rented  two 
hundred  acres  of  land  of  the  Duke  of  Portland, 
at  a  yearly  cost  of  two  hundred  and  thirty 
pounds.  He  keeps  sheep,  horses,  and  cattle, 
and  by  persevering  industry  and  economy  suc- 
ceeds, with  the  help  of  his  young,  intelligent, 
and  attractive  wife,  in  making  a  comfortable 
li^^[ng.  Tenant  farmers  in  Scotland  are  differ- 
ently situated  from  the  independent  farmers  in 
New  England,  who  usually  own  the  broad  acres 
which  they  cultivate. 

The  day  after  my  arrival  I  was  driven  across 
country  to  Wick.  The  ride  was  enjoyable,  al- 
though the  weather  was  "beastly"  cold  and 
rainy,  and  the  travelling  "nasty,"  as  our  British 
cousins  would  express  it.  On  the  route  were 
plainly  discernible  remains  of  what  are  called 
Pictish  houses,  or  cairns.  In  shape  and  form 
they  are  not  unlike  the  mounds  of  the  mound- 
builders,  which  I  have  frequently  seen  in  Mis- 
souri. They  are  circular  mounds,  oftentimes 
from  ten  to  twenty  feet  high  and  many  yards 
across,  while  within  are  generally  found  imple- 
ments and  bones  and  ashes. 


102  11^    WIGK-AI^B   OLD  BUIIfS. 

It  was  market  day  in  Wick,  one  in  whicb 
a  traveller  can  see  much  of  the  people  of  a 
country.  The  natives  were  there  from  all  the 
country  around,  from  John  O'Groat's  and  other 
localities,  riding  in  large  two-wheeled  carts,  in 
which  all  manner  of  articles — fruits,  pigs,  rab- 
bits, and  every  conceivable  thing — are  brought 
to  market.  They  were  an  humble  lot,  but  seemed 
happy  and  contented,  as  they  trafficked,  bought 
and  sold,  told  stories,  and  exchanged  jokes  with 
each  other.  The  inns,  where  they  congregated^ 
had  large  rooms,  with  long,  backless  benches, 
on  which  sat  the  men,  while  they  drank  quan- 
tities of  liquor  brought  to  them  by  the  pretty 
bar-maids,  who  should  have  been  engaged  in 
a  more  reputable  business.  Wick  is  situated 
on  the  River  Wick,  close  to  the  sea,  and  in 
ancient  times  was  much  frequented  by  the 
Northmen.  Its  name  is  of  Scandinavian  origin, 
signifying  an  opening  or  bay.  The  section 
about  the  place  abounds  in  most  interesting 
things.  Girnigoe  and  Sinclair  Castle,  now  old 
ruins,  I  visited.  They  were  the  strongholds  of 
the  Earl  of  Caithness  long  ago,  and  border  on 
the  sea.  They  ceased  to  be  inhabited  about 
two  hundred  years  since.  On  the  opposite  side 
of  the  bay,  but  in  distinct  view,  were  the  ruins 
of  the  Castle  of  Keiss.     Going  to  Noss  Head^ 


THE   CASTLE   OF  AVLDWICK.  103 

and  ascending  to  the  top  of  the  light-house 
there,  the  eye  wanders  over  a  wide  stretch  of 
swelling  sea  and  country,  and  the  mountains 
in  Orkney. 

On  my  return  to  Wick,  I  visited  the  Naval 
Battery;  then  the  "Old  Man  of  Wick,"  which 
is  the  remains  of  the  Castle  of  Auldwick.  It 
stands,  an  unshapely  ruin  situated  on  a  tongue 
of  land,  near  the  sea.  It  is  roofless,  open  from 
top  to  bottom,  and  consists  of  an  old  tower 
rising  three  stories  in  height.  It  is  very 
ancient,  was  a  stronghold  of  the  family  of 
Cheynes,  a  race  of  influential  chieftains  in  the 
county.  Later,  it  was  inhabited  by  the  Oli- 
phants,  another  powerful  family.  Farther 
down  on  the  coast  is  a  natural  bridge,  which  I 
visited.  It  is  a  slab  of  rock  extending  from  the 
mainland  across  a  chasm,  three  hundred  feet 
above  the  sea,  to  an  isolated  column  of  rock 
standing  by  itself  and  rising  that  height  above 
the  water.  It  is  about  twenty  feet  across  it. 
Through  this  rift  the  waters  rush  with  awful 
fury  during  tempestuous  storms.  In  the  whole 
rocky  coast  tremendous  rifts  and  channels  hun- 
dreds of  feet  in  depth  have  been  cut  by  the  sea. 
The  rock  is  of  a  comparatively  soft  nature,  and 
easily  worked  off  by  the  abrasion  of  the  waters. 
Stacks  of  rock,  isolated   and   alone,    separated 


104        STORMY  FIRTH  OF  PENTLAND. 

from  the  mainland,  and  hundreds  of  feet  in 
height,  line  the  coast,  and  are  perpetual  monu- 
ments of  old  Ocean's  power.  Through  the 
narrow  channel  of  the  stormy  Firth  of  Pent- 
land  rush  with  mighty  power  the  surging 
waters  of  the  Atlantic  into  the  North  Sea,  and 
the  projecting  headlands  of  Caithness  and  Ork- 
ney on  either  side  are  smitten,  rent,  and  torn 
by  the  rolling  ocean. 

George  Miller  Sutherland,  F.  S.  A.,  a  solicitor, 
made  my  stay  in  Wick  particularly  agreeable, 
and  I  was  his  guest  at  his  hospitable  home, 
where,  with  his  amiable  wife,  some  happy  and 
profitable  hours  were  spent.  He  is  a  sample  of 
many  Scotchmen  of  the  far  North,  who  are  pow- 
erful men  physically,  and  have  brains  to  match 
their  stalwart  physical  proportions.  Many  are 
the  literary  and  other  curiosities  which  he 
possesses.  He  showed  me  an  autograph  letter 
of  the  late  Cardinal  Newman,  dated  Aug.  21, 
1887,  in  which  he  said  that,  while  at  sea,  June 
16,  1833,  he  wrote  the  hymn,  which  all  the 
world  calls  beautiful,  "  Lead,  kindly  light." 

The  time  came  for  me  to  leave  the  enjoy- 
ments and  attractions  of  this  north  latitude, 
where  so  much  had  been  seen,  so  many  met 
whom  it  was  a  delight  to  know,  the  memory  of 
whose  attentions  will  always  linger  with  me, 


LEAVING    THE   DEAB  NOBTH-LAND.     105 

and  to  start  on  my  southward  journey  through 
Scotland  and  England  to  the  sunny  slopes  of 
Normandy,  France,  where  there  was  a  warmer 
clime  and  sunnier  skies,  but  where  there  could 
not  be  warmer  or  truer  hearts. 

It  was  the  shooting  season.  Grouse,  hare, 
and  other  game  were  abundant.  Sportsmen 
with  guns  and  hounds  were  everywhere,  and  at 
every  station  in  the  North  one  would  see  trophies 
of  the  field  and  chase.  I  passed  through  miles 
upon  miles  of  territory  entirely  given  up  to 
grouse  and  game  and  sheep,  with  seldom  a 
human  habitation.  Occasionally  one  would 
see  the  tumble-down  walls  of  the  cotters,  or 
Crofters,  who,  years  ago,  were  by  the  wholesale 
cleared  off  of  these  vast  tracts  to  make  way 
for  game,  or  more  particularly  at  that  time  for 
sheep.  Cffithness,  as  a  whole,  is  treeless,  and 
one's  eye  will  sweep  over  tracts  bounded  only 
by  the  horizon,  where  hardly  a  tree  will  greet 
the  vision.  I  have  passed  in  the  autumn  from 
the  depths  of  Canada  through  Vermont  and  New 
Hampshire,  where  the  great  stretches  of  moun- 
tain, hill,  valley,  and  plain,  covered  with  hard- 
wood growths,  were  ablaze  with  autumnal 
glory;  where  the  leaves  of  every  tree  pre- 
sented all  varieties  of  color  and  were  tinted 
with    every    form   of    beauty,    and    the    eyes 


106  THEIR   GLORIOUS  EOBES. 

feasted  on  a  scene  of  rapturous  loveliness  be- 
yond the  skill  of  writer  to  portray  in  words  or 
painter  to  place  upon  enduring  canvas.  In 
Caithness  was  another  and  diiferent  scene  of 
beauty,  —  not  the  golden-tinted  leaves  on  mil- 
lions of  forest  trees,  "but  the  purple  loveliness  of 
vast  tracts  of  moor-land,  where  plain,  valley^ 
hillside,  and  mountain  slope  were  in  the  glory 
of  a  purple  robe,  more  beautiful  than  any  wove 
by  weaver's  loom  for  monarch's  apparel.  It 
was  the  purple  of  the  full-blooming  heather^ 
and  it  is  worth  a  journey  across  the  restless 
Atlantic  to  behold. 

I  journeyed  rapidly  southward  through  In- 
verness, Forres,  Grauton,  Blair  Athol,  which  is 
noted  for  its  fine  mountain  scenery,  and  where 
is  Blair  Castle,  imposing,  historic,  and  pictu- 
resque, situated  among  lofty  trees.  Then  we 
passed  through  the  famous  Pass  of  Killiecrankie, 
where  occurred  the  battle  in  1689  between  the^ 
troops  of  William  III  and  his  enemies ;  Perthy 
Dunblane,  Sterling,  and  Edinburgh,  where  the 
Sabbath  was  passed  delightfully,  and  where  I 
met  the  brilliant  and  erratic  American  clergy- 
man, Rev.  J.  D.  Fulton,  D.  D. 

Leaving  this  '-  Queen  City  of  Scotland,"  I 
went  direct  to  London,  via  Melrose,  Hawick, 
Carlisle,  and  Leeds,  arriving  there  at  nine  in 


THE  SOUTH  DOWN  HILLS.  107 

the  evening; — putting  up  at  my  old  home, 
Whitfield's  Hotel,  7  Beaufort  Buildings,  just  ojffi 
of  the  Strand  and  near  Exeter  Hall.  There 
my  American  mail  awaited  me.  There  1  met 
a  fellow-voyager  of  my  trip  across  the  Atlantic, 
whom  I  had  not  seen  since  landing  at  Queens- 
town.  Spending  some  time  at  the  British 
Museum  and  public  offices,  one  afternoon  I 
left  the  Victoria  Station  for  Newhaven  and 
France.  The  ride  was  delightful,  through  a 
country  pleasing  to  the  eye,  and  abounding  in 
fertility  and  beauty.  The  South  Down  Hills, 
backed  up  against  a  clear  sky  in  the  afternoon 
of  that  summer  day,  were  very  beautiful. 
They  are  free  from  walls,  brush,  hedges,  and 
all  disagreeable  things.  At  Newhaven  at  11 
o'clock  p.  M.,  I  took  the  steamer  for  Dieppe, 
France.  The  boat  was  small,  disagreeable, 
and  at  2.30  a.  m.  of  the  following  morning  we 
were  aroused  by  the  sharp  words,  ''Tickets, 
please,"  of  an  officer.  At  4  a.  m.  I  was  regis- 
tered at  Hotel  de  Paris,  in  Dieppe,  that  quaint 
old  place  on  the  sea. 


CHAPTER    IX. 

IN   NOKMAXDY. 

It  had  long  been  my  desire  to  visit  that 
country  and  province  forever  renowned  from 
its  associations  with  the  birth,  the  life,  and  the 
career  of  William  the  Conqueror.  Normandy^ 
from  the  actions  of  her  mightiest  son,  and  her 
long  association  with  England  as  one  of  its  con- 
stituent political  parts,  has  become,  and  will 
ever  continue,  a  favorite  resort  of  the  scholar 
and  historian  who  wishes  to  obtain  the  clearest 
comprehension  of  the  conquest  of  England 
and  the  seizure  of  its  crown  by  those  brilliant 
Norman  adventurers  who  circled  around  their 
chief  William,  by  visiting  their  homes  in 
France,  and  the  points  at  which  they  gathered 
preparatory  to  their  raid  upon  the  domains  and 
properties  of  another  people.  In  Normandy 
hardly  a  town  can  be  visited,  or  a  walk  taken 
upon  its  soil,  but  what  the  thought  vividly 
enters  the  mind  of  the  intimate  connection 
which  the  fertile  land  bears  to  early  English 
history;  and  a  brief  sojourn  in  the  province 
seems  to  bring  to  life  again  the  Conqueror, 
dead  for  eight  hundred  years,  and  to  make  him 


DIEPPE.  109 

seem  like  a  vivid,  living  presence  in  the  land  of 
his  birth,  death,  and  burial.  Eollo,  the  cele- 
brated Danish  chief,  invaded  the  country  in 
876,  and  in  912  took  complete  possession  of  it, 
receiving  it  from  King  Charles  the  Simple  on 
condition  that  he  become  a  Christian  and 
acknowledge  fealty  to  the  King.  Rouen  be- 
came his  capital.  Over  this  province  he  and 
his  successors  ruled  from  that  date  to  1066, 
when  the  most  brilliant  of  his  descendants 
embarked  upon  the  hazardous  but  successful 
expedition  for  the  conquest  of  England.  Many 
of  these  towns  I  was  to  visit,  and  stand  upon 
places  famous  for  a  thousand  3^ears. 

I  was  now  in  Dieppe,  an  ancient  town  of 
twenty-three  thousand  people,  fronting  the  sea, 
with  a  beautiful  harbor.  It  is  situated  in  a 
valley  formed  by  ranges  of  chalk  cliffs,  but  the 
newer  sections  of  the  city  rise  up  the  slanting 
hillside  to  elevated  ground.  On  a  precipitous 
cliff  is  the  picturesque  castle,  erected  in  1435, 
and  which  commands  a  view  of  the  sea.  There 
are  numerous  old  churches,  surrounded  by  the 
thickly  congregated,  shabby  houses  of  the 
ancient  part  of  the  city.  Among  them  is  the 
Church  of  St.  Jacques.  A  handsome  prome- 
nade of  great  length  fronts  the  water.  Then 
there  is  the  beautiful  structure  of  brick  and 


110  BOTJEN. 

glass,  known  as  the  Casino,  while  in  its  front 
are  a  great  number  of  dressing  rooms  for  the 
bathers,  for  Dieppe  is  one  of  the  most  fash- 
ionable watering  places,  and  to  me  one  of 
the  most  attractive,  so  far  as  the  sea,  the  Casino, 
and  other  features  are  concerned. 

From  this  place  I  went  directly  south  to 
Rouen,  the  ancient  capital  of  Normandy  in  the 
days  of  its  pride  and  glory.  The  journey  was 
most  agreeable,  by  winding  rivers,  and  through 
meadows  fertile,  filled  with  grazing  herds,  and 
by  steep  hills,  covered  with  woods  in  abundance. 
There  I  was  a  guest  at  a  comfortable  hotel, 
whose  name  has  been  forgotten.  On  the  14th 
of  May,  841,  the  Normans,  having  sailed  up 
the  Seine,  landed  at  Rouen,  burned  the  Abbey, 
and  nearly  destroyed  it.  When  Rollo  espoused 
Christianity,  it  was  completely  restored.  The 
city  has  now  a  population  rising  one  hundred 
thousand,  and  is  very  rich  in  architecture 
and  mementos  of  a  former  illustrious  epoch. 
There  are  many  old,  narrow,  dirty  streets, 
filled  with  small  shops.  The  houses  are  high, 
and  in  many  the  timbers  at  the  sides  are  visi- 
ble, and  through  the  narrow  space  between  the 
projecting  fronts  of  the  buildings  one  could 
catch  sight  of  the  blue  sky  above. 

The  Cathedral,  justly  celebrated,  is  the  delight 


THE   CATHEDBAL  IN  BOUEN.  Ill 

of  all  visitors,  and  dates  from  1270.  It  takes 
high  rank  among  Gothic  edifices.  In  its  exte- 
rior it  will  not  compare  with  the  stateliness  and 
grandeur  of  the  cathedrals  of  Cologne  and  Stras- 
burg,  but  its  interior  is  full  of  beauty,  history, 
and  relics  of  a  notable  past.  There  is  the  tomb 
of  Rollo,  "the  first  duke  and  founder  and  father 
of  Normandy,  of  which  he  was  at  first  the  ter- 
ror and  scourge,  but  afterward  the  restorer." 
He  died  in  927.  There  also  is  the  tomb  of 
Richard  Cceur-de-Lion,  although  he  was  buried 
at  Fontevrault.  His  heart,  properly  enclosed, 
is  now  in  the  museum  of  antiquities.  A  long 
time  can  profitably  be  spent  in  this  ancient 
edifice,  viewing  its  massiveness,  its  relics,  and 
musing  upon  the  glories  of  a  vanished  past, 
of  which  it  is  an  evidence  and  a  reminder. 
The  Church  of  St.  Ouen  I  visited.  It  is  not 
so  ancient  as  the  Cathedral,  but  surpasses  it  in 
beauty.  The  quays  and  the  museum  of 
antiquities  are  of  great  interest.  Taken  all 
in  all,  Rouen  is  a  most  romantic  city,  where 
one  can  spend  days  in  delightfully  searching 
for  its  wonders  and  roaming  among  its  antiqui- 
ties. The  place  is  one  of  prominence  at  the 
present  as  well  as  it  was  in  the  past.  It  is 
finely  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Seine,  and 
is  an  important  locality  for  the  manufacture  of 
cotton. 


112        "GUILLAUME  LE   CONQUEEAHT." 

From  Rouen  I  went  to  Dives,  one  mile  east 
of  Cabourg,  and  which  is  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  the  River  Dives,  only  a  mile  and  a  quar- 
ter from  the  seashore.  It  has  less  than  a 
thousand  people.  Late  in  the  evening  I  was 
driven  to  the  hostelry  "Guillaume  le  Con- 
quferant"  (William  the  Conqueror).  Through 
a  covered  way  we  entered  the  open  court  to 
the  hotel.  It  is  a  most  unique  and  famous 
place,  and  a  thoroughly  enjoyable  one.  It  is 
an  old,  antique,  and  curious  building,  the 
rarest  of  the  rare.  I  visited  one  of  the  rooms 
which  Madame  de  S^vigne  occupied,  and  where 
she  wrote  many  of  her  letters.  There  are  an- 
cient furniture  and  uncommon  mementoes  of 
the  past  in  some  of  the  apartments. 

A  recent  writer  says :  "  The  name  of  Will- 
iam the  Conqueror  is  well  known  to  English 
history,  but  he  is  not  a  national  hero.  At  the 
quaint  Norman  village  of  Dives,  however,  there 
is  a  hostelry  of  which  he  is  still  patron.  The 
signboard  swinging  over  the  archway  bears  the 
name  ^Hostelry  of  William  the  Conqueror.* 
*  There,'  says  a  recent  visitor,  "^is  the  Con- 
queror's head,  as  large  as  life,  and  a  grim-look- 
ing fellow  he  seems  as  he  looks  down  at  us. 
It  was  from  Dives  that  the  Conqueror  started 
with  his  fleet,  for  there  was  a  good  harbor  in 


AT  DIVES.  113 

those  days,  it  seems,  cat  Dives,  long  since  gone. 
The  sea  has  retired  with  proper  reverence  from 
the  place  where  one  William,  not  yet  the  Con- 
queror, rode  at  anchor.  And  Professor  Free- 
man, they  say,  has  visited  the  place  and  put 
his  seal  upon  it,  so  that  one  may  stay  there  in 
peace  and  quiet  without  fear  of  historical 
doubts  and  questionings,  which  is  a  great  com- 
fort to  the  traveller.' " 

At  the  dinner  table  rare  dishes  were  offered 
me,  and  my  appetite  was  appeased  by  some 
extraordinary  French  soup,  apparently  made 
of  bitter  weeds  and  other  equally  obnoxious 
"  compounds."  The  guests  were  French  peo- 
ple, and  their  vivacity  is  something  amazing  to 
cool  Anglo-Saxon  eyes,  they  are  so  excitable 
and  demonstrative.  Opposite  me  at  the  table 
sat  a  young  lady  of  surpassing  beauty.  She 
did  not  possess  the  style  of  beauty  of  the 
"  American  girl,"  but  of  a  different  order. 
Her  hair  was  black  as  "  the  plumage  of  a 
raven's  wing,"  while  over  her  lustrous  black 
eyes  were  heavy  lashes  and  eyebrows  dark 
and  circling,  which  contrasted  charmingly  with 
her  olive-tinted  complexion.  To  watch  my 
fellow-guests,  who  were  so  excitable,  so  viva- 
cious, and  so  demonstrative,  was  very  amusing. 
During  the  evening,  in  that  open  court,  they 


114  ITS  HISTOBW  ASSOCIATIONS. 

surrounded  the  different  tables,  smoking,  laugh- 
ing, and  chatting,  until  at  length  the  laughter 
and  chatter  ceased,  they  dispersed  to  their 
apartments,  and  stillness  reigned.  From  the 
chamber  windows  I  looked  forth  at  the  twink- 
ling lights  in  the  small  town.  In  the  skies  above 
were  the  same  glowing  stars  which  always 
greeted  my  observing  eyes  in  a  New-England 
home.  They  are  old  and  dear  friends  which 
from  infanc}''  I  had  watched.  The  Great 
Dipper  was  in  view,  while  the  North  Star  was 
there,  with  its  steady  glow,  and  might  then,  as 
in  nights  long  gone,  be  leading  human  way- 
farers to  destination,  to  safety,  to  home. 

This  town  is  forever  associated  with  the  name 
and  fame  of  the  Conqueror.  Here  it  was  that 
he  collected  his  ships  and  his  army,  and  from  a 
hill  above  the  village  he  is  said  to  have  re- 
viewed his  troops,  and  a  monument  marks  the 
place.  From  this  harbor  he  first  set  sail,  after 
days  of  impatient  waiting,  on  his  memorable 
conquest  of  England,  the  12th  of  September, 
1066,  and  from  the  Harbor  of  St.  Yalery  on 
the  27th  of  the  same  month.  Going  through 
the  small  village,  I  entered  the  church,  built 
several  centuries  ago,  and  saw,  directly  over 
the  door  on  the  wall,  the  inscribed  names  of 
the  knights  who   followed  William  upon   the 


EUROPEAN  MARKET  DAYS.  115 

expedition.  In  every  European  country  that 
I  visited,  it  was  an  interesting  sight  and  ex- 
perience to  go  into  the  market  place,  on  a 
market  day,  and  see  the  queer  customs,  queer 
people,  and  queer  streets.  To  Dives  in  the 
early  morning  people  from  the  country  about, 
men,  women,  and  children,  flocked  with  two- 
wheeled  carts,  drawn  by  large  gray  or  white 
horses,  many  of  which  were  very  fine  ones. 
The  women  wore  clean,  white  caps,  and  gayly 
chatted  as  they  sold  all  kinds  of  fruits,  vege- 
tables, fowls,  and  other  merchandise.  Many 
of  the  faces  of  the  people  are  expressionless, 
round,  and  very  brown.  Hard  cider  is  the 
universal  drink.  It  is  met  everywhere,  among 
the  lowliest  and  in  their  hotels.  Cabourg,  with 
its  long,  wide  sandy  beach,  its  avenues  of  pop- 
lars, and  its  huge  Casino,  is  a  popular  sea-bath- 
ing resort,  and  looked  charmingly  as  I  saw  it,  in 
the  stillness  and  clearness  of  a  delightful  sum- 
mer evening. 

From  Dives,  I  went  to  Caen,  a  city  of  nearly 
forty-five  thousand  people.  It  is  situated  on 
the  River  Orne,  and  some  nine  miles  from  the 
sea.  It  is  not  an  attractive  place.  Many  of 
its  streets  are  narrow,  with  old  houses,  and 
black  walls  hoary  w^ith  age,  which  disfigure  the 
prospect.     Tile   roofs  abound   in  many   parts, 


116  AT   CAEN'. 

and  the  people  in  those  localities  are  no  more 
attractive  than  their  surroundings.  But  there 
are  also  fine  and  pleasant  streets,  wide,  and 
clean  as  anything  one  would  expect  to  find 
in  Normandy,  and  quaint  old  houses  which 
attract,  amuse,  and  instruct  the  sight-seer. 
Taking  a  guide  and  conveyance,  I  visited  the 
most  noted  places.  Something  like  a  mile 
from  the  station,  and  situated  upon  a  high 
eminence,  are  the  remains  of  the  Castle  begun 
by  William  the  Conqueror,  and  made  to  keep 
in  check  his  mutinous  vassals,  and  to  make  the 
River  Orne  free  for  navigation.  It  has  been 
changed  many  times,  and  is  now  used  as  bar- 
racks for  the  soldiers.  At  the  entrance  they 
stood  on  guard,  and  we  were  not  permitted  to 
pass.  In  the  most  important  section  of  Caen 
is  the  celebrated  Church  of  St.  Pierre,  its  com- 
mencement dating  from  the  thirteenth  century. 
Its  tower,  two  hundred  and  fifty-five  feet  in 
height,  is  graceful  as  art  could  make  it,  while 
eight  turrets,  small  and  elegant,  surround  its 
base.  The  interior,  in  its  general  appearance, 
is  similar  to  many  other  churches  of  note.  It 
is  astounding  to  an  American  when  he  con- 
siders the  age  of  churches  in  Europe,  the  vast- 
ness  of  them,  their  elegance,  and  the  great 
expense  incurred  in  their  erection  and  fur- 
nishings. 


EIGHT   VANISHED   CENTURIES.  117 

In  the  eastern  part  of  Caen  is  the  Church  of 
Sainte  Trinity,  founded  by  Matilda,  the  wife  of 
William,  June  15,  1066,  or  eight  hundred  and 
thirty-four  years  ago.  That  is  a  long  time  in 
the  history  of  a  city,  a  people,  or  a  nation. 
Caen  was  a  favorite  dwelling-place  of  William 
the  Conqueror,  and  there  he  rested  in  his  long, 
last  sleep,  after  his  turbulent  life  had  closed- 
It  is  singular  that  the  barbarous  act  of  a  mighty 
King  should  establish  a  custom  in  a  kingdom 
which  should  endure  for  ages.  In  his  old  age 
William  converted  Hampshire,  England,  into  a 
hunting  park.  He  desired  that  the  park  should 
be  near  his  palace,  and  so  he  took,  without  any 
compunctions  of  conscience,  a  tract  of  country 
from  Salisbury  to  the  seacoast,  a  distance  of 
thirty  miles.  More  than  one  hundred  villages, 
hamlets,  and  manors  were  ruthlessly  swept 
away  that  within  the  forests  game  might  thrive 
for  royal  sport.  This  was  the  beginning,  it  is 
asserted,  of  those  cruel  forest  and  game  laws 
of  Great  Britain  which  were  enjoyed  so  much 
by  the  nobility,  and  denounced  and  endured  by 
a  long-suffering  people. 

In  the  year  1086  he  again  received  at  Win- 
chester, England,  the  oaths  of  allegiance  of  his 
English  subjects;  then  crossed  the  English 
Channel  into  Normandy,  and  the  following  year 


118  DEATH  OF   THE   CONQUEROB. 

engaged  in  war  with  the  French  King.  He 
laid  waste  the  country  in  his  pathway,  cap- 
tured the  City  of  Nantes,  not  far  distant  from 
Paris,  and  burned  it  to  the  ground.  In  spurring 
his  horse  over  its  district  of  ashes,  his  charger's 
foot  entered  the  flaming  embers,  he  reared,  and 
William  received  injuries  which,  after  six  weeks 
of  su:ffering,  caused  his  death.  A  writer  says  i 
"For  six  weeks  the  King  of  England  lingered 
on  the  border  of  that  realm  where  the  smoke 
of  burning  towns  is  never  seen.  .  .  .  On 
the  morning  of  the  9th  of  September,  1087,  the 
great  King  was  aroused  from  his  stupor  by  the 
sound  of  bells,  and  then,  after  a  stormy  and 
victorious  career,"  he  died. 

The  Church  of  St.  Etienne  is  the  place  of 
his  sepulture.  It  was  built  by  the  Conqueror 
in  1077,  and  is  called  the  finest  specimen  ex- 
tant of  pure  Norman  architecture.  Its  length 
is  three  hundred  and  seventy-seven  feet,  ninety- 
eight  feet  in  width,  and  is  eighty  feet  from  the 
floor  to  the  roof.  Two  spires  surmount  it, 
three  hundred  feet  in  height.  The  interior 
of  the  church  surprises  one  by  its  simplicity. 
Passing  over  nearly  its  entire  length,  I  was 
shown  a  marble  slab,  at  my  feet,  whitish- 
veined,  and  surrounded  by  a  border  of  red- 
veined    marble.      This    was    the    spot    under 


WILLIAM'S   TOMB.  119 

which  was  all  that  remained  of  William  the 
Conqueror.  Twice  has  the  tomb  been  dese- 
crated,—  in  1542,  and  again  in  1793, — during 
which  his  remains  were  scattered  among  the 
ruins.  A  thigh-bone  was  alone  discovered,  and 
deposited  here,  which  is  all  that  remains  of  the 
great  Norman  knight.  A  pathetic  commen- 
tary on  the  vanity  of  human  greatness ! 

To  this  church  the  Conqueror  bequeathed  a 
cup  made  of  precious  stones,  his  sceptre,  his 
crown,  and  his  own  body.  As  I  stood  by  the 
tomb  of  this  man,  one  of  the  most  renowned 
of  warriors  and  rulers,  I  could  not  but  contrast 
his  resting-place  with  that  of  some  other  illus- 
trious ones  which  I  had  seen.  How  unlike 
that  of  lesser  rulers  of  England,  interred  in 
Westminster  Abbey,  in  that  grandest  mauso- 
leum for  historic  associations  on  earth ;  of  Wel- 
lington, at  St.  Paul's ;  of  Grant,  overlooking 
the  shimmering  Hudson ;  of  Washington,  high 
above  the  lordly  Potomac  and  among  the  trees 
at  Mount  Vernon;  of  Charlemagne,  after  his 
sleep  of  eleven  hundred  years,  in  the  church  in 
Aix  la  Chapelle,  Germany;  of  Louis  Philippe, 
in  his  gorgeous  resting-place,  in  Dreux;  of 
Marshal  Ney,  with  no  stone  above  him,  who 
rests  beneath  the  green  waving  grasses  in  the 
Cemetery  of  Pere  la  Chaise,  in  Paris;    and  of 


120  OTHER   MAUSOLEUMS. 

the  latter's  great  commander,  Napoleon,  whose 
remains  rest  in  Paris,  on  the  bank  of  the 
Seine,  "among  the  French  people"  whom  he 
*' loved  so  well,"  in  one  of  the  most  magnifi^ 
cent  mausoleums  on  earth, — I  could  compare  it 
only  with  the  Great  Protector.  A  thigh-bone 
of  "the  Conqueror"  in  the  Church  at  St. 
Etienne,  and  the  skull  of  "the  Protector"  kept 
as  a  curiosity  near  the  village  in  Ightham, 
County  Kent,  England,  are  all  that  remain  of 
two  mighty  rulers ! 

Other  places  of  interest  were  examined,  but 
I  must  not  linger  at  Caen.  Aside  from  its  his- 
toric associations,  one  can  leave  it  without  par- 
ticular regret.  The  ride  to  Bayeux,  through 
a  charming  country,  was  altogether  pleasant, 
where  I  arrived  late  in  the  afternoon,  but  before 
the  gathering  of  the  evening  shadows.  In  the 
country  the  white  or  gray  Norman  horses 
everywhere  abounded.  They  are  heavy-limbed, 
able-bodied,  strong,  but  lack  the  animal  life, 
nerve,  and  spirits  of  the  elegant  cab-horses  of 
London.  The  herds  of  cattle  were  abundant, 
they  were  excellent  stock,  speckled  and  brin- 
dled in  color,  but  they  did  not  have  in  view 
any  of  the  famous  blooded  varieties  common  in 
Great  Britain  and  the  United  States.  A  mag- 
nificent avenue  shaded  by  the  Lombardy  pop- 


m  BAYEUX.  121 

lars  was  that  through  which  I  passed  from  the 
station  to  my  place  of  destination.  I  stopped 
at  the  Hotel  de  Luxembourg,  a  very  comfort- 
able place.  A  garden  in  the  rear  of  the  house 
was  beneath  my  chamber  windows,  laid  out 
with  walks  and  beds  of  flowers,  with  trees  and 
summer  houses.  The  outstretched  and  fruit 
laden  branches  of  pear,  peach,  and  other  trees 
were  fastened  to  the  high  wall,  where  their 
luscious  fruit  basked  and  ripened  in  the  steady 
glow  of  the  autumn  sun.  The  stillness  of  the 
night  was  broken  by  the  sweet  chime  of  bells 
announcing  the  passing  hours.  On  the  Sabbath 
I  attended  religious  services  in  the  magnificent 
Roman  Catholic  Cathedral.  It  is  a  strikingly 
beautiful  edifice,  the  central  tower  being  three 
hundred  and  twelve  feet  high,  while  the  two 
flanking  spires  are  each  two  hundred  and  fifty- 
two  feet  in  height.  The  walls  of  the  interior 
are  covered  with  numerous  frescoes  of  more  or 
less  merit. 

One  of  the  most  valuable,  most  historic,  and 
ancient  relics  of  a  notable  past  is  most  care- 
fully preserved  in  this  city,  and  is  known  the 
world  over  as  the  Bayeux  Tapestry.  It  is 
attributed  to  the  deft  fingers  of  Queen  Matilda, 
wife  of  the  Conqueror.  It  is  two  hundred  and 
twenty-seven  feet  long,  twenty  inches  wide,  of 
not  elegant  cloth,  which  has  become  brown  with 


122  THE  BAYEUX   TAPESTRY. 

its  great  age  of  eight  hundred  years.  Various 
kinds  of  colored  thread  were  used  in  delineat- 
ing the  historic  incidents  of  England's  conquest 
in  1066.  Fifty-eight  groups  are  portrayed. 
The  English  are  represented  as  wearing  mus- 
taches and  the  Normans  destitute  of  that  ap- 
pendage. Scene  after  scene,  group  after  group, 
are  sketched  with  the  needle,  which  one  can 
follow  with  marvellous  interest:  Edward  the 
Confessor  despatching  Harold  to  William,  an- 
nouncing that  he  should  one  day  be  King  of 
England ;  Edward's  funeral ;  Harold  is  made 
King;  William  prepares  ships  to  make  an  in- 
vasion of  England  —  scene  follows  scene,  until 
the  Battle  of  Hastings  and  the  triumph  of  Will- 
iam.    All  this  is  preserved  in  a  glass  case. 

Bayeux  has  about  nine  thousand  inhabi- 
tants, and  is  a  sleepy  old  town,  but  is  a  delight- 
ful place  in  which  to  stop  awhile  and  wander 
about  its  streets,  viewing  the  quaintest  of 
ancient  houses.  Their  framework  was  on  their 
exterior  with  finishing  in  the  inside,  and  they 
have  roofs  of  tile.  They  are  ancient,  they  are 
dilapidated,  they  are  unclean  (like  so  much  else 
in  Normandy),  but  a  certain  fascination  clings 
to  them  in  spite  of  these,  and  one  cannot  but 
gaze  upon  them  with  a  lively  interest.  One 
bright,  clear  day  I  was  driven  over  to  Bye, 
going   through    St.   Vigor,    St.    Sulpice,    and 


AT  RYE.  123 

Magny.  In  thq  eleventh  century,  a  castle  of  a 
Norman  knight  stood  on  almost  the  identical 
spot  in  Eye  occupied  at  present  by  the  Catholic 
Church.  There  it  was  that  Duke  William  was 
succored  when  hard  pressed  by  his  pursuing 
enemies,  for  this  knight  and  relative  despatched 
several  valiant  sons  to  afford  him  protection 
and  to  bear  him  honorable  company  to  his  own 
castle  at  Falaise.  This  town  of  Rye  has  had 
its  name  perpetuated  in  the  English  city  of  the 
same  patronymic  across  the  Channel,  and  in  its 
American  namesake  of  Rye,  N.  H.,  and  all  are 
near  the  tempestuous  sea.  The  houses  are  of 
light,  soft  stone,  with  thatch,  or  tiles,  or  slate 
for  roofs.  Services  were  in  progress  as  I 
entered  the  little  church,  but  were  soon  con- 
cluded. Climbing  the  steep  hill  which  over- 
looks church  and  village,  a  lovely  Norman  scene 
was  before  and  around  me.  The  country  was 
like  a  sea  opened  out  before  me.  In  the  dis- 
tance the  towers  of  Bayeux's  lofty  Cathedral 
were  plainly  to  be  seen.  The  country  was  open, 
and  there  were  large  fields  turned  over  by  the 
plow  or  covered  with  stacks  of  hay  or  shocks 
of  ripened  grain,  while  in  others  the  herds 
were  quietly  grazing.  The  village,  embowered 
among  trees,  was  beneath  me,  and  all  was  peace 
as  the  afternoon  hours  and  light  faded  away 
into  the  twilight  and  the  evening. 


CHAPTER    X. 

A  MOONLIGHT  RIDE. 

In  the  meadow  and  the  mountains 
Calmly  shine  the  summer's  stars, 

But  across  the  glistening  lowlands 
Slant  the  moonlight's  silver  bars. 

In  the  bright  moonlight,  I  went  back  by 
post  to  Bayeux.  The  highway  was  lined  with 
hedges,  or  light  stone  walls,  and  to  many  of 
the  latter  fruit  trees  of  different  kinds  were 
fastened  and  where  the  fruit  was  rapidly  ripen- 
ing. Our  conveyance  was  old  and  antiquated, 
the  horse  was  strong,  the  road  excellently 
smooth  and  hard,  the  driver  jolly,  and  the  pas- 
sengers were  a  miscellaneous  assortment  of  ten 
persons,  men,  women,  and  children,  while  the 
intervening  spaces  between  them  were  filled 
with  baskets  and  hand  luggage  of  numerous 
kinds.  A  soldier  crawled  to  the  top  of  the 
coach,  the  driver  sat  upon  the  dasher,  three  of 
us  occupied  the  front  seat,  while  the  two  in- 
terior seats,  which  faced  each  other,  were  filled 
with  other  passengers.  All  were  in  the  best 
of  humor,  joke  and  laughter  abounded,  and 
the  novel  journey  was  only  two  quickly  com- 
pleted. With  delight  I  recall  that  night  ride 
under  the  glowing  skies  of  Normandy. 


AT  ST.  LO.  125 

On  leaving  Bayeux,  I  went  west  to  Neuilly, 
and  from  there  south  to  Lison  Junction  and  to 
St.  Lo,  and  registered  at  Hotel  Cheval  Blanc. 
The  town  is  a  very  ancient  one,  was  fortified 
by  Charlemagne,  and  has  several  times  passed 
from  the  possession  of  one  King  to  that  of  his 
opponent.  It  has  a  population  of  about  eleven 
thousand,  and  lies  romantically  on  a  sloping  hill- 
side on  the  right  and  overlooking  the  Vire  River. 
The  Cathedral  formerly,  now  the  Church  of 
Notre  Dame,  commenced  in  1202,  is  one  of  the 
attractions  of  the  city,  is  situated  on  the  top 
of  a  hill  one  hundred  and  eight  feet  above  the 
river,  and  is  very  fine.  At  the  hotels,  each 
guest  is  required  to  give  his  name,  occupation, 
residence,  destination,  etc.,  which  is  called  for 
by  the  police.  The  morning  succeeding  my 
arrival,  I  was  awakened  by  the  rumbling  of 
teams,  the  bleating  of  sheep,  the  shouts  of  peo- 
ple, and  other  similar  discordant  sounds.  It 
was  market  day,  and  in  the  early  morning 
people  were  thronging  into  the  city,  bringing 
all  kinds  of  animals  to  market;  women  in  black, 
with  white  caps,  were  driving  hogs,  calves,  and 
cows  through  the  streets.  The  nature  of  these 
animals  appeared  to  be  very  much  the  same 
as  in  the  United  States,  and  it  was  laughably 
amusing  to  see  one  woman  trying  to  speed  the 
progress  of  a  reluctant  cow  by  giving  a  most 


126  THE   GOTENTIN. 

vigorous  twist  to  that  appendage  of  the  animal 
which  nature  had  kindly  provided  to  protect 
itself  froni  annoying  flies.  On  leaving  St.  Lo, 
I  passed  through  an  agricultural  district.  The 
farmers  live  in  stone  houses,  many  of  them 
having  roofs  of  thatch.  They  are  unattractive, 
untidy,  gloomy,  and  repulsive.  There  is  about 
them  nothing  to  cheer  or  elevate  their  occu- 
pants. From  this  part  of  Normandy  came 
many  of  the  followers  of  William  the  Con- 
queror, "and  some  of  the  most  illustrious  names 
among  the  English  aristocracy  are  derived 
from  those  humble  villages  in  the  Cotentin." 

We  reached  Coutances,  a  town  of  about  nine 
thousand  people,  six  miles  from  the  sea,  and 
situated  on  a  high  eminence,  between  the 
streams  Soule  and  Bulsard.  The  Cathedral, 
situated  on  the  highest  eminence,  from  a  dis- 
tance looms  up  grandly  against  the  horizon. 
The  journey  was  continued  to  FoUigny,  Vire, 
and  Flers.  The  latter  is  an  interesting  j^lace 
of  fourteen  thousand  people.  At  many  of  the 
stations  and  in  travelling  one  meets  lots  of 
Romish  priests,  with  shaven  faces,  long  black 
gowns,  with  bands  about  the  waist,  and  wear- 
ing broad-brimmed  hats.  They  often  have  the 
Bible  or  a  Prayer-book  in  their  hands,  and  are 
very  devotional  and  sanctimonious  in  their  ap- 
pearance, and  vigorous  physically. 


BIRTHPLACE    OF   THE   COJSIQUEBOE.     127 

I  arrived  at  Falaise  late  in  the  evening,  and 
stopped  at  the  Hotel  "  Grande  Cerf."  Woe  be 
to  that  traveller  who  expects  to  find  neatness 
in  the  hotels  of  Normandy,  for  often  will  he  be 
most  wofully  disappointed.  Many  of  them  are 
models  of  untidiness  and  some  are  positively 
disgusting  and  rejDulsive,  and  are  what  our 
English  cousins  would  call  "very  nasty."  As 
a  whole  they  are  not  to  be  compared  with  the 
tidy,  neat  hostelries  which  one  everywhere 
finds  in  Great  Britain.  Falaise  is  a  city  of 
some  nine  thousand  people.  It  is  situated  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Ante,  a  branch  of  the 
Eiver  Dive,  and  is  an  untidy,  ill-kept,  and  dis- 
agreeable place  ;  and,  barring  its  rare  historical 
associations,  has  little  to  please  the  eye,  gratify 
the  taste,  or  awaken  the  enthusiasm  of  the  trav- 
eller. I  visited  its  noted  churches  and  looked 
over  the  greater  part  of  the  city.  But  what 
gives  the  place  its  rare  interest  is  its  connection 
with  the  life  and  times  of  William  the  Con- 
queror, and  with  that  of  his  ancestors.  This 
was  the  place  of  his  birth.  In  the  early  morn- 
ing my  steps  turned  up  the  steep  street  toward 
the  picturesque  ruins  of  the  Norman  Castle 
of  Falaise.  It  was  a  fortress  of  remarkable 
strength,  on  a  jutting  clilf,  facing  the  rocky 
height  of  Mont  Mirat,  and  overlooking  a  little 


128  EGBERT   THE  DEVIL. 

stream  which  flowed  through  the  valley  at  its 
base.    It  dates  back  to  the  tenth  century.    This 
edifice  shows  that  the  Normans  were  master 
builders,  and  knew  how  to  erect  massive  and 
elegant  edifices.     "  The  castle  is  surrounded  by 
walls  from  seventy  to  one  hundred  and  ninety 
feet  above  the  base  of  the  cliffs,  is  garnished 
with  twelve  towers  no  higher  than  the  top  of 
the  parapet,  and  is  one  thousand  nine  hundred 
and  seventy  feet  in  circuit."     At  the  entrance 
the  "  concierge,"  who  was  an  old  woman,  un- 
locked the  gate,  and  conducted  me  through  a 
fine  walk  of  trees  to  a  portion  of  the   castle. 
From  the  walls  at  the  side  we  looked  down  the 
steep  decline  on  to  the  roofs  of  houses  in  the 
valley  beneath.      Then  we  reached  a  circular 
tower,  called  Talbot's  Tower,  one  hundred  and 
thirty  feet  high,  which  rises  from  the  valley 
below  and  is  a  massive  and  fine  work.     Farther 
along  we  were  shown  the  place  in  the  wall  from 
which  "  Robert  the  Magnificent,"  often  called, 
and  very  appropriately,   "Robert  the  Devil," 
father  of  William  the  Conqueror,  first  cast  his 
eyes  upon  the  fair  Arlette,  the  mother  of  Will- 
iam, and  daughter  of  the  Tanner  of  Falaise,  as 
she  was  washing  in  the  stream  at  the  base  of 
the  castle.      The  abode  of    her  father  is  still 
pointed  out.     Centuries  have  come   and  gone, 


THE   TANNER'S  DAUGHTER.  129 

and  still  the  women  and  girls  of  Normandy 
wash  in  the  waters  from  that  little  stream  which 
flows  at  the  base  of  the  cliffs.  The  small 
chamber,  where  William  is  said  to  have  been 
born,  is  shown  to  \dsitors.  From  the  castle's 
walls  the  view  of  the  city,  the  country  adjacent, 
and  the  murmuring  river,  is  excellent. 

Not  far  from  the  Church  of  the  Trinity  is  a 
bronze  equestrian  statue  of  William  the  Con- 
queror as  he  appeared  at  the  Battle  of  Hastings. 
He  is  encased  in  mail,  and  is  mounted  on  a 
heavy  Norman  horse,  which  is  in  the  act  of 
plunging  ahead  with  its  fore-feet  upreared.  It 
is  a  statue  which  attracts  and  holds  one's  earnest 
attention.  It  was  erected  in  1851,  at  an  ex- 
pense of  some  $12,500,  which  was  raised  by 
public  subscription.  There  are  also  statues  of 
Rollo,  who  died  in  917,  "Robert  the  Devil," 
and  others.  The  castle  and  its  surroundings 
are  wonderfully  interesting  mementos  of  a 
mighty  and  fascinating  past. 

A  tour  through  Normandy  stirs  one's  soul 
like  as  a  tour  in  Scotland  awakens  lively  emo- 
tions in  the  hearts  of  those  who  delight  in 
her  history  and  joy  in  visiting  her  famous 
scenes.  To  me  it  was  a  season  of  rapturous 
delight,  filled  with  novel  experiences,  as  I  jour- 
neyed among  a  light-hearted  and  joyous  people, 


130  A    GEE  AT  PEiriLEGE. 

speaking  in  an  unfamiliar  tongue.  It  gave  me, 
as  nothing  but  a  personal  visit  could,  an  oppor- 
tunity to  study  the  life  and  history  of  one  of 
the  most  remarkable  men  the  world  has  ever 
known,  to  become  familiar  with  the  places 
forever  identified  and  associated  with  his  name, 
and  with  those  of  his  gallant,  stalwart,  and 
adventurous  knights  by  whom  he  was  sur- 
rounded, and  who  aided  him  in  hazardous  enter- 
prises, and  thus  shared  in  his  unfading  renown. 
I  had  been  on  the  Battle-field  of  Hastings, 
where,  in  1066,  his  greatest  victory  was  won, 
and  which  changed  English  history ;  had  stood 
in  Westminster  Abbey,  which  witnessed  his 
coronation  in  1066 ;  had  been  at  Dives,  from 
whose  harbor  he  had  started  upon  his  hazardous 
conquest  of  England ;  had  been  in  Rye,  where 
he  was  saved  in  his  headlong  flight  from  vin- 
dictive and  pursuing  enemies,  by  the  tact  and 
valor  of  a  faithful  vassal  and  his  gallant  sons ; 
had  seen  Caen,  the  city  in  which  he  loved  to 
dwell  in  his  old  age ;  had  stood  in  the  church 
beneath  which  he  was  buried,  and  over  the 
spot  where  all  that  exists  of  him  now  remains ; 
had  beheld  the  city  of  his  nativity,  the  cas- 
tle which  was  his  home,  the  room  in  which  tra- 
dition says  he  was  born,  where  he  was  nurtured, 
and  from  which  he  went  forth  on  his  marvellous 


IN  DBEUX.  131 

career  of  conquest,  which  changed  the  civiliza- 
tion of  Europe  and  the  destinies  of  the  world. 
He  was  indeed  a  wonderful  man,  and  his  his- 
tory is  unparalleled  in  the  annals  of  mankind  ! 
From  Falaise  I  went  to  Argentan,  Surdon, 
Nonancourt;    then  to    Dreux,  situated  on  the 
River  Blaise,  and  which  has  a  population  of 
about  nine  thousand  people.     A  stream  flows 
through  the  town,  and  in  many  places  along 
the   shore,   under  a  covering   of    sheds,  were 
many  women  washing  clothes  in  the  running 
water.      This  custom  has  been  applauded  by 
some  writers  as  very  nice  and  beautiful.     My 
opinion  is  directly  the  opposite.     The  water  is 
contaminated,  and  the  clothes  when  finished  are 
anything  but  nice  and  clean.    A  \^le  odor  clings 
to  them,  and  in  my  hotel  in  Falaise  the  bed 
linen  was  positively  repellant.     The  streets  of 
Dreux  are  narrow,  but  there  I  found  a  most 
excellent  hotel,  a  rare  thing  in  Northern  France. 
The  place  is  an  interesting  one,  for  it  rises  to 
the  crest  of  a  high  hill,  and  its  situation  is  rare 
and  commanding.     It  has  numerous  churches 
of  note  and  good  public  buildings.     But  the 
rarest  of  all,  and  which  would  repay  the  trav- 
eller for  a  long  journey,  is  the  Chapelle  Roy  ale, 
the  Mortuary  Chapel  of  members  of  the  Royal 
Familv  of   Bourbon.     Its  erection  commenced 


132  THE  CHAPELLE  OF  THE  BOVBBONS. 

in  1816,  by  the  mother  of  Louis  Phihppe,  late 
King  of  France,  and  was  extended  and  com- 
pleted by  the  latter.  The  rotunda  of  the  chapel 
is  eighty  feet  in  height,  and  a  large  dome  forty- 
three  feet  in  diameter  crowns  it.  Standing  as 
it  does  on  a  high  hill,  it  is  a  noble  landmark  for 
miles  about.  Different  portions  of  the  building 
are  so  arranged  as  to  make  a  Greek  cross.  The 
interior  is  gorgeous  and  rivals  in  magnificence 
the  tomb  of  Na-poleon.  Precious  marble  and 
stained  or  beautifully  painted  glass — which  was 
finished  by  the  most  celebrated  artists — are 
seen  at  every  point.  In  the  two  crypts  below 
are  thirty-nine  tombs,  mostly  occupied.  Louis 
Philippe  died  in  1850,  and  his  wife  in  1866. 
They  were  entombed  at  Weybridge,  England, 
and  in  1876,  a  few  years  after  the  fall  of  the 
empire  of  the  rival  family  of  Napoleon  III, 
they  were  conveyed  to  Dreux,  and  are  now 
resting  there.  There  is,  in  one  block  of  the 
purest  Avhite  marble,  a  life-sized  statue,  the 
standing  King  and  the  kneeling  Queen,  while 
back  of  them  is  the  Genius  of  ImmortaUty. 
There  are  other  figures  of  great  beauty  and 
costliness.  A  park,  Avith  grounds  laid  out  in 
elegance,  surrounds  this  famous  Chapel,  to 
which  the  public  are  always  admitted. 

From  Dreux  I  went  to  Ivry,  Pacy,  Vernon  j 


AT   VEBNON  AND  MANTES.  |133 

to  the  small  town  of  St.  Clair,  where  my  visit 
was  not  prolonged.  My  stay  at  Vernon  of  a 
few  hours  was  long  enough  to  see  the  place. 
It  is  forty-nine  miles  distant  from  Paris  and 
situated  on  the  River  Seine,  in  a  fine,  fertile, 
and  attractive  country.  It  was  here  that  Eng- 
lish prisoners  were  detained  in  the  Napoleonic 
wars.  The  church,  built  centuries  ago,  is  an 
interesting  edifice,  and,  like  most  or  all  Catholic 
churches,  is  kept  open  continually  for  devotees. 
My  journey  was  continued  to  Mantes,  a  city  of 
about  seven  thousand  people.  This  was  the 
city  burned  to  the  ground  by  William  the  Con- 
queror, and  it  was  while  urging  his  charger 
into  the  hot  flaming  ashes  that  his  horse 
plunged,  and  he  received  injuries  of  which 
he    died. 

Leaving  Mantes,  a  ride  of  thirty-six  miles 
brought  me  to  the  beautiful  city  of  Paris, 
where  I  was  soon  in  familiar  quarters.  Taking 
a  retrospective  view,  the  country  through 
which  I  travelled  in  Normandy  and  Northern 
France  was  not  so  luxuriant,  so  fertile,  so  well 
cultivated,  or  so  thickly  populated  as  in  Eng- 
land. The  fields  are  greater  in  extent,  while 
tall  Lombardy  poplars  stand  like  guardian 
sentinels  betw^een  the  lands  of  adjacent  owners. 
They  are  very  prevalent,  lining   each  side  of 


134  FAREWELL    TO  NOB M ANDY. 

many  highways  and  the  streets  of  many  vil- 
lages. Large  numbers  are  in  perfect  form  and 
health,  adding  beauty  to  the  landscape,  while 
others  lift  high  in  air  their  scraggly  branches, 
and  are  living  at  a  "poor  djdng  rate." 

The  people  were  kind,  free,  and  easy  in  man- 
ners, and  took  life  as  it  came,  without  much 
trouble  or  worriment.  In  business  and  finan- 
cial matters,  the  memories  of  some  were  short 
and  at  fault.  They  were  liable  to  error,  and, 
by  a  singular  moral  obliquity,  their  financial 
errors  were  invariably  in  their  own  favor.  The 
universal  beverage  was  hard  cider,  which  was 
everywhere.  The  people  and  the  country  do 
not  seem  to  be  so  much  alive  as  in  England, 
and  one  sees  little  of  that  go-aheadativeness, 
push,  and  enterprise  which  are  everywhere 
apparent  in  England  and  in  the  United  States. 
But  it  is  a  delightful  country  to  visit.  The 
traveller  finds  so  much  of  historical  interest,  so 
much  of  amusement  and  pleasure  in  country 
and  people,  that  he  is  richly  compensated  for 
tli^  slight  annoyances  and  discomforts  always 
incident  to  travel  in  a  strange  land  and  among 
a  strange  people.  Of  my  tour  in  Normandy 
and  Northern  France  I  entertain  nothing  but 
a  lively  sense  of  its  privilege,  of  much  profit, 
enjoyment,  and  pleasant  recollections. 


CHAPTER    XI. 

DAYS   IN   PARIS. 

It  was  now  my  desire  to  see  more  of  the 
briUiant  capital  of  France  than  I  had  beheld, 
and  more  than  space  will  permit  me  to  record; 
to  insj^ect  the  great  E^cposition,  and  then  ex- 
plore romantic  sections  of  Alpine  scenery  and 
"vdsit  the  sunny  land  of  Italy.  The  throngs 
of  visitors  from  all  lands  filled  the  hotels  to 
overflowing,  but  I  secured  admirable  quarters 
at  a  Mrs.  Schofield's,  28  Avenue  d'lena,  near 
the  Exposition  grounds.  My  days  in  Paris  were 
spent  in  sight-seeing,  but  it  is  not  my  purpose 
to  give  anything  except  a  slight  reference  to 
the  great  Exposition  of  1889.  Since  the  fall  of 
the  Second  Empire  in  1870,  France  has  been 
nominally  a  republic.  The  Exposition  had  for 
its  great  objects  the  glorification  of  republican 
ideas  and  the  celebration  of  the  doAvnfall  of 
monarchy,  and  to  honor  the  great  revolution  of 
1789.  A  century,  with  the  numerous  revolu- 
tions, wars,  and  marvellous  stirrings-up  which 
the  French  people  have  undergone  during  that 
time,  have  made  France  and  the  French 
people    of    to-day    vastly   different   from    the 


136  THE  BEPUBLia  MAY  LIVE. 

France  and  the  French  of  1789.  The  nation 
stands  now  in  the  front  rank  of  civilization,  her 
people  enjoy  a  fair  degree  of  liberty,  and  by 
means  of  public  education — so  thoroughly 
and  carefully  diffused  by  the  fostering  hand  of 
the  republic — the  intelligence  of  the  people  is 
rapidly  being  increased,  their  minds  broadened, 
and  the  foundations  of  free  institutions  are  be- 
ing carefully  and,  we  hope,  permanently  laid. 

If  the  republic  can  successfully  withstand  the 
machinations  of  its  internal  foes  for  another 
score  of  years,  until  the  children  which  it  has 
nurtured  in  freedom  of  thought,  whom  it  has 
educated  in  its  schools,  shall  have  attained  ma- 
turity, then  that  freedom  of  thought  and  that 
education  will  bear  abundant  fruits  in  the  de- 
sire and  unbending  purpose  that  no  monarchy 
or  empire  shall  be  resurrected  and  that  the 
republic  shall  live.  The  monarchies  of  Europe 
have  no  sympathy  with  the  present  French 
government,  and  desire  its  overthrow.  The 
United  States  and  the  American  people  cannot 
withhold  their  sympathy,  and  must  extend  a 
fraternal  hand  and  utter  a  strong  and  ardent 
wish  that  the  republic  may  live. 

The  governments  of  Europe,  having  no  sym- 
pathy with  the  objects  of  the  Exposition,  de- 
clined officially  to  take  part  in  the  celebration, 


THE  EIFFEL    TO  WEB.  137 

SO  the  exhibit  was  the  result  of  individual 
enterprise.  The  United  States  was  officially 
represented,  and  Congress  voted  an  appropria- 
tion for  the  object.  Paris  being  easy  of  access, 
the  fruits  of  the  genius  of  all  nations  were 
collected  together,  and  an  especially  fine  one  of 
France  itself.  The  exhibit  of  the  United  States 
was  not  large  nor  full,  nor  what  one  would  ex- 
pect to  see.  Exhibitors  do  not  send  the  jDroducts 
of  hand  and  brain  across  the  sea,  except  when 
they  think  it  may  be  a  benefit  to  them  finan- 
cially. This  fact  will  account  for  the  meagre 
show  from  the  United  States  ! 

To  me,  one  of  the  most  pleasing  exhibits  of 
all  was  the  history  of  inhabited  dwellings  of 
mankind  from  the  earliest  date  to  the  present. 
There  were  models,  one  after  another,  of  every 
kind  and  variety,  from  the  early  cave-dwellings, 
being  holes  or  caverns  in  hills,  to  the  beautiful 
pavilion  used  as  a  reception  room  by  the  Presi- 
dent of  France. 

The  great  attraction  of  all,  however,  was  the 
wonderful  Eiffel  Tower,  the  highest  edifice  on 
earth.  Thousands  were  congregated  about  it 
at  every  hour  during  the  day.  It  is  a  marvel  of 
symmetry,  strength,  and  beauty.  The  weight 
of  iron  used  in  its  construction  is  enormous. 
The   foundations   enclose  two    acres   of    land. 


138  THE   GEE  AT  HEIGHT. 

There  are  three  platforms,  to  which  people  are 
carried  by  lifts,  although  there  are  spiral  stair- 
cases, by  which  one  can  ascend  and  descend 
a  portion  of  the  way.  Hundreds  of  people  can 
be  accommodated  upon  the  first,  where  there  is 
an  excellent  restaurant.  The  second  platform  is 
three  hundred  and  seventy-six  feet  from  the 
base,  and  the  third  is  eight  hundred  and  sixty- 
three  feet  from  the  ground.  From  the  top  a 
large  electric  light,  like  a  great  ball  of  fire, 
could  be  seen  from  all  parts  of  Paris.  This  was 
so  arranged  that  it  could  be  reflected,  or  shoot 
its  light  from  one  point  to  another,  when  its 
stream  of  fire  seemed  like  the  tail  of  some 
monstrous  comet. 

Wishing  to  get  a  view  of  Paris,  I  one  morn- 
ing reported  at  the  base  of  the  tower  al  eight 
o'clock.  At  nine  I  was  fortunate  enough  to  be 
surged  along  with  the  crowd  to  the  ticket  ofiice, 
where  a  ticket  was  procured  for  the  summit. 
Always  light-headed  at  any  distance  from  terra 
firma,  my  shrinking,  sensitive,  cowardly  body 
revolted  and  shrank  from  the  idea  of  beino; 
carried  to  so  great  a  height.  My  impression- 
able, enthusiastic,  and  rapturous  soul  knew  that 
exquisite  enjoyment  was  there,  and  there  was  a 
conflict  in  my  dual  being.  The  spiritual  part 
triumphed;    it   did  not  think  it  right  that  it 


VIEW  OF  PARIS.  139 

should  be  deprived  of  the  great  joy  in  store  for 
itj  on  account  of  the  cringing  tabernacle  which 
it  for  a  time  inhabited.  So  I  got  into  the  car, 
and  up,  up,  up  we  went  into  high  air,  to  the 
first,  second,  and  third  platforms.  I  was  now 
eight  hundred  and  sixty-three  feet  in  air.  After 
a  short  time  the  sensitiveness  and  fear  subsided. 
The  view  was  magnificent  beyond  description. 
Paris  was  spread  out  beneath  me  like  a  map. 
Its  various  places  of  interest,  its  noted  build- 
ings, could  be  seen  at  a  glance.  Men,  car- 
riages, and  the  surging  thousands  looked  small 
as  they  hurried  like  ants  over  the  ground  be- 
neath. The  River  Seine  was  like  a  belt  of 
silver  as  it  wound  through  the  city ;  the  country 
around  was  grandly  picturesque.  Several  hours 
were  spent  there,  and  postals  were  written  and 
mailed  from  that  great  elevation  to  different 
parts  of  the  world.  The  grounds  in  the  even- 
ing, lighted  by  more  than  ten  thousand  electric 
lights,  were  worth  a  journey  across  the  Atlantic 
to  behold.  Their  bright  beams  fell  on  flow- 
ing fountains,  gorgeous  buildings,  and  beds  of 
blooming  flowers. 

Time  was  passing.  Days  were  spent  joyously 
and  profitably  at  the  Exposition  and  in  the 
sunniest  capital  in  Europe.  I  was  impatient  to 
be  away.     Meeting  some  very  pleasant  Ameri- 


140  FBOM  PARIS   TO   GEN-EVA. 

cans,  we  united  our  fortunes  and  started  to- 
gether one  fine  day,  via  Fontainebleau,  Dijon, 
and  Macon,  for  Geneva,  Chamouni,  and  Italy. 
Pleasant  companions,  a  clear  atmosphere,  and 
the  fertile  country  through  which  much  of 
the  way  was  passed,  made  the  day  glide  rapidly 
and  delightfully  away.  In  the  evening,  when 
the  moon  with  its  brightness  cast  a  fascinating 
halo  of  light  over  surrounding  mountains  and 
the  placid  waters  of  Lake  Leman,  we  arrived 
in  the  City  of  Geneva. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

CHAMOUNI. 

I  REGISTERED  at  the  Hotel  d'Angleterre, 
"vvhicli  is  a  most  excellent  house,  and  commands 
a  lovely  vieAv  of  Mont  Blanc.  A  long  day's 
ride  made  the  table  d'hote  particularly  refresh- 
ing. The  following  day  was  spent  on  the  Lake 
of  Geneva  and  in  a  visit  to  Lausanne,  which 
were  both  familiar  to  me.  On  the  clear  bright 
morning  of  a  cloudless  day,  all  of  our  party  and 
many  others,  mounted  on  a  diligence  drawn 
by  six  horses,  started  on  a  forty-mile  drive  for 
Chamouni.  All  were  in  high  spirits  as  we  were 
whirled  up  and  out  of  Geneva.  We  rose  to  a 
higher  elevation  than  the  lake  and  city ;  great 
stretches  of  country  were  around  us,  bounded 
by  the  mountains.  Wooden  crosses  at  the 
meeting  of  roads  gave  evidence  of  the  religious 
character  of  the  people. 

We  journeyed  toward  the  Alps.  The  scen- 
ery was  grand  and  impressive.  We  were  in  a 
land  of  mountains.  The  River  Arve  flowed 
beneath  us,  and  before  us  were  the  towering 
peaks  of  the  Alps,  with  immense  glaciers  be- 
tween them,  of  dazzling  brightness  in  the  clear 


142  MONT  BLANC. 

atmosphere  of  that  sunny  day.  We  passed 
over  a  road,  a  triumph  of  engineering  skill,  and 
with  keen  delight,  at  four  p.  m.,  we  were  whirled 
rapidly  into  the  vale  and  village  of  Chamouni, 
where 

The  Alps  stretch  to  the  midmost  ocean's  strand  — 
.  Their  bases  gardens,  and  their  summits  snows. 

The  vale  is  a  half-mile  in  breadth  and  thirteen 
miles  in  length,  bounded  by  great  elevations. 
Mont  Blanc,  massive  and  overwhelming,  was 
before  us.  We  were  at  its  feet  watching  its 
snow-capped  summit.  A  telescope  in  the  garden 
of  the  hotel  revealed  its  deeper  gorges.  The 
afternoon  faded  away  into  evening  and  the 
evening  into  night.  Mont  Blanc  caught  the 
last  beams  of  the  setting  sun,  and  the  mellow 
brightness  of  the  full  moon  fell  upon  it,  while 
a  blazing  star  was  just  over  it.  Many  tourists 
thronged  the  village  and  the  hotels.  The  bazars 
were  filled  with  all  manner  of  souvenirs  of  the 
place  and  locality. 

Procuring  an  alpen-stock  on  the  succeeding 
day,  and  mounted  on  mules,  a  gentleman,  a  lady, 
and  myself  started  together  for  the  Montanvert, 
the  Mer  de  Glace,  and  the  Mauvais  Pas.  Our 
guide  led  the  way,  and  we  sauntered  out  of  the 
village.  Up  a  zigzag,  winding  path  through 
forests  we  went  until  we  reached  a  chalet  half- 


THE  MER  DE   GLACE.  143 

way  up  the  mountain.  At  the  end  of  three 
hours  and  a  half  we  reached  the  Montanvert. 
A  good  hotel  was  there,  where  we  rested.  Our 
mules  were  given  in  charge  of  boys,  to  be  taken 
down  and  meet  us  at  another  point  in  our  jour- 
ney. We  were  six  thousand  three  hundred 
feet  above  sea  level,  and  the  great  glacier  of  Mer 
de  Glace  was  beneath  us,  glistening  with  bright- 
ness. Clambering  down  the  steep  descent,  we 
were  soon  upon  the  jagged,  billowy  sea  of  ice, 
a  mile  in  width,  ten  miles  in  length,  and  of  vast 
and  unknown  depths.  Looking  about  us,  we 
saw  many  mountain  peaks  more  than  thirteen 
thousand  feet  in  height.  Our  alpen-stocks, 
with  their  iron  brads  stuck  into  the  slanting  ice, 
prevented  us  from  slipping.  We  crossed  in 
half  an  hour.  On  the  way  we  came  to  immense 
crevasses,  down  which  our  guide  rolled  great 
stones  which  we  heard  tumbling  in  vast  depths 
beneath  us.  We  ascended  from  the  glacier  a 
steep  bank,  and  reached  the  Mauvais  Pas.  The 
passage  is  called  safe.  To  me  it  seems  danger- 
ous in  the  extreme.  It  is  a  pathway  on  a  steep, 
yawning  precipice  of  a  solid  mountain  of  rock, 
much  of  the  way.  Roughly  hewn  steps  are 
cut  in  the  side  of  the  mountain,  and  a  rail  of  iron 
upon  the  upper  side  is  placed  so  that  j^eople  can 
hold  on  with  their  hands.     A  too  giddy  head,  a 


144  THE  MAUVAIS  PAS. 

misstep,  with  the  hand  unclasped  from  the  rail, 
and  one  would  plunge  down,  down,  down  thou- 
sands of  feet  into  the  abyss  beneath.  When  we 
passed  over  it,  the  sun  beat  down  upon  us  with 
almost  overpowering  heat,  and  the  perspiration 
dropped  from  our  faces. 

At  length  the  danger  was  passed  and  we 
reached  the  chateau,  where  we  were  regaled 
on  tea  and  sour  bread.  Farther  on  we  met  our 
mules,  mounted,  and  continued  the  descent. 
Our  path  was  a  narrow  one,  many  places  not 
over  four  feet  wide,  apparently  cut  into  the 
side  of  the  mountain.  The  mule  I  rode  was 
good  looking,  and  that  was  his  chief  recom- 
mendation. He  feared  nothing;  he  was  per- 
verse, and  seemed  to  have  an  itching  desire  to 
go  over  the  precipice  and  take  me  with  him. 
While  rounding  the  sharpest  curves,  and  in 
the  narrowest,  most  dangerous,  and  steepest 
places,  he  would  continually  strike  his  hind  foot 
forward  on  to  his  front  shoulder  to  brush  off 
flies,  thus  doubling  himself  up  in  the  form  of  a 
letter  A,  and  endangering  my  life.  Downward, 
still  downward,  we  went,  and  at  length  reached 
the  valley,  when  a  few  miles'  ride  brought  us 
back  to  the  village,  having  been  gone  some  nine 
hours.  We  had  had  glimpses  of  the  whole  extent 
of  the  Mer  de  Glace,  and  from  the  mountain 


CHAMOUNI  TO  MABTIQNT.  145 

ieights,  while  ascending  and  descending,  there 
were  views  unsurpassed  in  beauty  of  the  Valley 
-of  Chamouni,  with  its  villages,  fields,  running 
.river,  and  mountains  upon  the  farther  side. 

The  hours  had  been  of  exquisite  enjoyment, 
in  spite  of  dangers.  The  day  succeeding  we 
went  from  Chamouni  to  Martigny,  over  the 
Tete  Noire.  It  is  a  distance  of  twenty-three 
miles,  and  we,  of  course,  went  by  carriage 
The  weather  was  perfection  itself,  and  all  those 
mountain  solitudes  were  ablaze  with  glory. 
'The  road  passed  along  the  edge  of  vast  preci- 
pices. There  were  awful  depths  beneath  us 
and  awful  heights  above,  both  embraced  by  the 
glancing  eyes  at  once.  Never  have  I  rode 
through  such  marvellous  scenery.  My  words 
tjan  give  but  a  faint  idea  of  its  grandeur  and 
sublimity.  From  the  height  the  Valley  of  the 
Hhone,  like  a  beautiful  picture,  lay  before  us. 
As  we  descended  from  the  mountain  into  Mar- 
tigny, the  road  doubled  upon  itself,  snake-like, 
thirty-seven  times.  At  this  place  our  stay  was 
only  for  the  night.  We  could  now  reach  the 
outside  world  by  railroad.  Early  in  the  day 
following  our  arrival  we  took  train  for  Inter- 
laken,  via  Lausanne,  Fribourg,  and  Berne,  pass- 
ing over  the  Lakes  of  Thun  and  Brienz.  At 
the  Hotel  des  Alpes,  where  I  was  a  guest,  I  had 


146  IN'  THE  ST.    GOTBABD   TUNNEL. 

the  pleasure  of  meeting,  till  then,  unseen  rela- 
tives from  the  United  States.  Here  I  parted 
from  my  very  agreeable  travelling  friends,  with 
whom  I  had  journeyed  all  the  way  from  Parisj. 
and  who  were  now  to  make  a  tour  of  Germany^ 
I  met  some  of  them,  later,  on  the  City  of  New 
York,  on  my  return  voyage. 

From  Interlaken  I  went  direct  to  Lucerney 
over  its  beautiful  lake  and  through  the  famous^^ 
St.  Gothard  Tunnel,  to  Como,  Italy.  How 
shall  words  describe  this  marvellous  engineer^ 
ing  feat !  The  great  tunnel  is  nine  and  one- 
fourth  miles  in  length,  nearly  two  miles  longer 
than  the  Mont  Cenis,  which  I  passed  through 
later  on.  The  boring  took  seven  and  a  half 
years'  labor  of  nearly  three  thousand  men.- 
It  is  securely  lined  with  solid  masonry,  m 
double-tracked,  and  the  train  is  twenty  min- 
utes in  going  through.  It  is  lighted  up  at 
intervals  of  each  eleven  hundred  yards.  Many 
are  the  subterranean  curves  which  the  road 
makes  in  passing  through  these  mountains^ 
It  pierces  them,  and  by  a  circular  descent 
emerges  again  far  beneath  Thus  it  passed  over 
chasms,  fierce  running  streams,  clinging  to  the 
sides  of  the  mountain,  until  we  emerged  into 
sunny  Italy. 

At  Chiasso,  a  frontier  town,  our  luggage  was- 


OK  THE    WAY  TO  ITALY.  147 

examined  by  the  customs  officials,  and  at  five 
in  the  afternoon  we  reached  Como,  which 
was  near  the  latter  place.  The  distance  was 
one  hundred  and  forty-four  miles  from  Lucerne, 
and  the  time  occupied  was  about  nine  hours. 
I  registered  at  the  Hotel  Volta.  The  place  has 
some  twenty-six  thousand  people,  is  old  and 
unattractive.  For  the  town  I  cared  little  ;  but 
it  is  the  most  convenient  starting-place  for 
a  tour  of  Lakes  Como,  Lugano,  and  Maggiore, 
all  of  which  I  wished  to  see,  to  make  a  mental 
comparison  of  their  charms  with  those  of  some 
other  famous,  as  well  as  less  noted,  lakes  in 
Europe  and  the  United  States. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

SUNNY  ITALY  AND  THE  ITALIAN  LAKES.. 

Lake  Como  is  considered  the  finest  in  Italj^. 
I  took  a  steamer  to  inspect  its  beauties,  starts 
ing  in  the  morning.  The  hills  towering  high 
above  it  are  covered  with  verdure  to  their  tops, 
though  the  rough,  ragged,  jagged  edges  of 
steep  cliffs  frequently  are  visible  through  the 
green  foliage.  Little  villages  and  some  beau- 
tiful villas  line  the  shores  or  hug  the  steep 
hillsides.  There  are  many  ancient,  dilapidated- 
structures,  with  roofs  of  tile,  broken  in,  making 
an  unsightly  blot  on  the  landscape.  The  farther 
we  advanced,  the  more  attractive  became  the 
scenery,  but  its  general  effect  was  disappoint- 
ing. To  me  it  was  not  nearly  so  interesting  as- 
Lake  Lugano.  At  Menaggio,  by  narrow-gauge- 
railway,  I  passed  up  the  mountain  and  went 
through  fine  scenery  to  Porlezza,  and  took 
steamer  from  there  across  Lake  Lugano. 

This  voyage  was  one  of  great  pleasure.- 
Green  mountains  were  around  us,  and  often, 
near  the  very  top  of  their  precipitous  sides,, 
were  cleared  fields,  and  homes  of  the  humble 
occupants.    Little  villages  of  stone  houses,  and 


CHAPELS  IN   TEE  MOUNTAINS.        149 

small  chapels  with  white  spires,  surmounted  by 
the  cross,  gleamed  in  the  summer  sun,  as  they 
clung  to  the  steep  mountain  sides.  The  people 
through  all  this  section  appear  to  be  very 
religious,  judging  from  external  indications. 
Deep  narrow  seams  cut  the  sides  of  the  moun- 
tains to  the  water,  marking  the  course  of 
flooding  torrents.  In  places,  the  sterile,  rocky 
mountain  sides  are  terraced,  as  on  the  Rhine, 
and  used  as  vineyards. 

Going  to  Luino,  I  took  rail  for  Milan.  Our 
route  lay  along  the  pebbly  shore  of  Lake  Mag- 
giore,  of  which  there  were  some  excellent 
views.  Villages  nestled  among  the  quiet  hills, 
and  a  band  of  golden  clouds  overshadowed  the 
tops  of  the  high  surrounding  mountains  in  the 
west.  I  went  via  Laveno,  Varese,  Malnate,  and 
Saronno,  arriving  at  Milan  at  9  p.  m.,  and  was  a 
guest  at  the  Hotel  Pozzo. 

The  city  has  some  three  hundred  thousand 
inhabitants,  is  finely  situated,  and  is  nicely  kept. 
The  streets  are  clean  and  attractive,  and  the 
place  is  full  of  enterprise  and  life.  Its  shops 
are  excellent.  The  Arcade  Victor  Emmanuel 
is  roofed  with  glass,  with  long  rows  of  shops  be- 
neath, and  open  spaces.  The  gallery  is  nine 
hundred  and  sixty  feet  in  length,  its  height  is 
ninety-four  feet,  and  its  width  is  forty-eight  feet. 


150  MILAN. 

The  whole  is  admirably  decorated  and  frescoed. 
Hundreds  of  people  can  gather  beneath  this 
roof,  and  wander  there  for  hours.  It  is  the 
finest  place  of  its  kind  in  Europe.  Some  time 
was  spent  in  the  famous  Picture  Gallery,  where 
were  seen  works  of  noted  artists.  A  volume 
could  be  written  of  what  there  is  to  be  found  in 
this  one  city.  Much  was  seen  by  me,  but  its 
Cathedral  was  its  crowning  attraction.  Its  in- 
terior is  rich  with  all  that  art  and  treasure  can 
give  it.  I  went  to  its  roof,  and  was  amazed 
with  the  wealth  of  beauty  and  art  before  me. 
Ninety-eight  turrets  of  purest  white  marble 
adorn  it.  Going  to  its  tower,  I  stood  three 
hundred  and  sixty  feet  above  the  pavement  of 
Milan,  where  my  searching  eyes  took  in  a  scene 
fair,  grand,  and  exhilarating.  Beneath  and 
around  me  was  a  forest  of  sky-pointing  spires 
of  white  marble,  beautiful  and  glistening  in 
the  sun.  Milan  was  at  my  feet,  and  far  away 
could  be  seen  different  peaks  of  the  snow-clad 
Alps.  This  building  was  commenced  in  1386, 
is  adorned  with  more  than  two  thousand  mar- 
ble statues,  and  cost  an  incredible  amount. 

Leaving  Milan,  I  went  through  an  interest- 
ing country  to  the  City  of  Venice.  We  passed 
through  Brescia,  Lonato ;  along  the  shore  of 
Lake   Garda,  of    which  we   had  an  excellent 


THE   CITY  IN  THE  SEA.  151 

view;  through  Yerona,  Vicenza,  and  Padova. 
The  evening  shadows  enveloped  the  landscape 
as  we  neared  the  city.  Passing  over  an  im- 
mense bridge,  two  and  one-half  miles  in  length, 
which  connects  the  place  with  the  mainland, 
we  "entered  into  the  city."  A  dream  of  my 
life  was  now  realized.  I  was  fortunate  to  see 
Venice  first  at  night.  As  we  passed  over  the 
bridge,  the  lights  of  the  city  broke  in  upon  the 
darkness.  On  going  out  of  the  station,  the 
surrounding  waters  were  bright  with  the  dan- 
cing lights  of  multitudes  of  gondolas  which 
were  gliding  over  them.  Their  black  prows, 
each  bearing  a  light,  were  at  the  pier,  and 
scores  of  gondoliers,  like  hackmen  at  railway 
stations,  were  impatient  to  carry  passengers  to 
their  hotels.  Giving  my  luggage  in  charge,  I 
entered  a  gondola  and  was  taken  on  the  Grand 
Canal  to  the  Grand  Hotel,  opposite  to  S.  Maria 
della  Salute.  The  novelty  of  everything  about 
me  was  exciting.  The  steps  of  the  hotel 
descended  into  the  water.  After  table  d'hote, 
a  band  of  musicians  came  in  gondolas  and, 
without  alighting,  by  the  side  of  the  hotel  dis- 
coursed the  sweetest  music,  and  were  then 
rowed  away.  For  a  long  time  I  sat  on  the 
veranda  of  the  hotel  and  watched  the  scene 
about  me.     Strange,  black  shapes,  the  quaint 


152  STBANGE  SIGHTS  IJ!^  VENICE. 

craft  of  this  place,  glided  about  me  in  every 
direction,  over  the  water  and  through  the  main 
street  of  the  place,  which  was  of  water.  The 
music  from  different  bands  of  musicians  floated 
sweetly  on  the  air.  All  these  unnatural  and 
unusual  scenes  have  a  wonderful  effect  upon  a 
traveller. 

Venice  is  in  a  shallow  part  of  the  Adriatic 
Sea ;  is  some  seven  miles  in  circumference ;  is 
built  on  three  large  islands,  and  one  hundred 
and  fourteen  smaller  ones.  There  are  one 
hundred  and  fifty  dividing  canals,  and  three 
hundred  and  seventy-eight  bridges  connecting 
the  sandy  islands.  It  has  a  population  of 
about  one  hundred  and  thirty  thousand,  and  is 
one  of  the  chief  seaports  on  the  Adriatic  Sea. 
"In  828  a  Venetian  fleet  brought  the  body  of 
St.  Mark  to  Venice  (from  Alexandria,  Egypt), 
and  thenceforth  the  Venetians  revered  him  as 
their  tutelary  saint,  using  his  emblem,  the  lion, 
as  their  cognizance,  and  his  name  as  synony- 
mous with  the  republic,  while  their  supreme 
official  functionary  was  styled  ^Procurator  of 
St.  Mark.' "  The  great  Square  of  St.  Mark  is 
one  of  the  chief  points  of  interest,  and  thither 
the  guide  led  me  on  a  tour  of  inspection.  It 
is  about  six  hundred  feet  long  by  two  hundred 
and  seventy  in  width,  finely. paved,  surrounded 


THE   CHUECH  OF  8T.  MABK.  155 

by  the  Church  of  St.  Mark,  the  Doges'  Palace, 
and  other  buildings  of  magnificence  and  world- 
wide fame, —  a  place  of  brightness,  gayety,  and 
gladness.  Once  in  the  early  morning  I  saw 
the  doves  of  St.  Mark.  They  were  there  by 
hundreds,  and  were  being  fed  by  tourists  like 
myself.  They  flocked  about  us,  lit  upon  our 
arms,  and  fed  from  our  hands.  It  was  one  of 
the  prettiest  sights  in  all  Venice.  They  are 
protected  by  the  city,  and  for  six  hundred  years, 
ever  since  the  thirteenth  century,  have  been 
the  pets  of  the  people,  when  swift-winged  car- 
rier pigeons  carried  the  glad  tidings  of  victory 
to  the  City  in  the  Sea.  I  inspected  the  Palace 
of  the  Doges,  with  its  splendors ;  the  Church  of 
St.  Mark,  with  its  domes,  and  rich  with  mosaics,, 
colored  marble,  and  historic  associations. 

I  stood  in  Venice  on  the  Bridge  of  Sighs, 
A  palace  and  a  prison  on  each  hand. 

These  lines  have  been  quoted  by  writers  ever 
since  Byron  wrote  them.  The  bridge  is  a  disa- 
greeable affair  above  the  water,  one  by  which 
accused  persons  and  culprits  passed  to  hideous 
dungeons  and  to  fearful  death. 

Gay  gondoliers  rowed  me  in  their  gondolas 
over  the  Grand  Canal,  and  into  many  of  the 
narrow,  dirty,  smaller  ones.  From  the  top  of 
the  Campanile,  three  hundred  and  twenty  feet 


164    LANGUAGE   OF  THE  IMAGINATION. 

high,  I  had  a  wonderful  view  of  the  Adriatic 
Sea,  of  the  country  around,  and  of  Venice,  with 
its  palaces  and  numerous  domes.  Its  famous 
churches  and  galleries  were  visited.  It  seemed 
wondrous  strange  to  move  about  the  paved 
streets  of  a  city,  and  never  see  a  horse,  a  car- 
riage, or  anything  of  the  kind  in  it.  There  is  no 
other  city  like  it  in  the  wide,  world.  Beggars 
are  abundant.  One  fine-looking  youth  impor- 
tuned us,  when  he  was  driven  away  by  the 
gondolier.  Never  have  I  seen  such  offended 
pride  as  was  exhibited  in  his  bearing  when  he 
was  refused  and  departed.  He  bore  himself 
with  the  grace  and  dignity  of  a  prince ! 

Much  has  been  written  of  the  glory  and 
beauty  of  this  city  "rising  out  of  the  crystal 
sea."     I  have  read. 

There  is  a  glorious  City  in  the  Sea. 
The  sea  is  in  the  broad,  the  narrow  streets, 
Ebbing  and  flowing ;   and  the  salt  sea-weed 
Clings  to  the  marble  of  her  palaces. 

That  is  the  language  of  imagination  and  poesy. 
It  is  one  side  of  the  picture.  There  is  another 
side.  The  truth  is,  that  the  waters  of  this 
*'  crystal  sea,"  out  of  which  the  city  rises,  are 
dirty,  nasty,  and  slimy,  and  the  disgusting 
^roma  arising  from  many  of  her  narrow  canals 
and  quays  will  rival  in  offensiveness  the  docks 


FLOEENCE.  165 

of  Liverpool,  London,  or  New  York.  "The 
marble  of  her  palaces,"  where  it  is  lapped  by 
the  slimy  waters  of  the  Grand  Canal,  the  main 
thoroughfare  of  the  city,  are  green  with  foul 
exudations  from  the  contaminated  waters.  But 
let  this  pass.  Every  traveller  will  find  much 
to  enjoy  in  a  visit  to  this  peculiar  city,  and 
pleasant  memories  of  it  will  abide  with  him. 

Leaving  the  hotel  early  one  morning,  I  was 
rowed  on  the  Grand  Canal  to  the  railroad  sta- 
tion, bade  farewell  to  the  "sea  gem,"  and 
went  direct  to  Rovigo,  which  has  two  leaning 
towers;  then  to  Ferrara,  once  famous,  but  now 
in  its  decline  ;  then  to  Bologna.  At  the  latter 
place  the  longer  stay  was  made.  It  is  a  city  of 
one  hundred  and  twenty-nine  thousand  people, 
in  a  fertile  country  at  the  foot  of  the  Apen- 
nine  Mountains,  and  now  famous  for  its  sau- 
sages! Rising  to  the  heights,  we  passed  the 
Apennines,  through  many  tunnels,  and  descend- 
ing rapidly,  we  soon  reached  the  Valley  of 
Arno  and  the  City  of  Florence. 

Li  Venice,  and  in  the  journey  to  this  city, 
my  company  had  been  American  tourists,  like 
myself,  and  were  most  pleasant  and  intelligent. 
The  railway  trains  are  fearfully  slow,  and  accom- 
modations for  travellers  will  not  compare  with 
those  of  the  United  States.  It  was  evening 
when  we  reached  the  city,  and  we  were  imme- 


156  SOLDIEBS   OF  OABIBALDL 

diately  driven  to  the  Hotel  Victoria.  It  was 
kept  by  an  intelligent  Italian,  an  old  soldier 
and  admirer  of  Garibaldi.  He  had  fought  and 
suffered  in  helping  to  win  the  freedom  which 
Italy  now  enjoys.  He  was  by  choice  a  republi- 
oan,  but  the  reign  of  King  Humbert  is  so  mild, 
-and  he  is  so  liberal  in  his  politics  and  views, 
that  my  republican  friend  was  satisfied  with  the 
present  condition  of  things.  He  was  a  Catho- 
lic, but  rejoiced  in  the  freedom  of  Italy  from 
priestly  fetters,  and  was  sternly  opposed  to  any 
restoration  of  temporal  power  to  the  Roman 
Ponti:ff .  Said  he :  "I  am  a  Catholic ;  but  I  be- 
lieve in  the  political  freedom  of  Italy.  This  is 
^  bad  time  for  Mr.  Pope !  Let  him  attend  to 
religious  affairs  ;  we  will  attend  to  the  political 
affairs."  These  views  were  spoken  with  great 
earnestness,  and  the  same  sentiments  were 
expressed  by  many  with  whom  I  conversed. 
Soldiers  of  Garibaldi  I  met  frequently,  and 
more  earnest  and  devoted  men  to  the  cause  of 
religious  and  political  freedom,  not  only  for 
Italians,  but  for  all  men,  I  never  met.  The 
King  is  very  popular.  His  reign  is  mild ; 
and  while  the  people  are  taxed  highly  for 
necessary  internal  improvements  and  for  the 
army,  there  seems  to  be  little  complaint.  Italy 
is  making  great  progress,  and  the  fetters  under 
which  a  long-suffering  people  have  groaned  so 


ABT   GALLERIES.  157 

long  are  broken.  If  the  standing  army  of 
Italy  could  be  greatly  reduced,  there  appears 
to  be  no  limit  to  the  strides  she  would  make  in 
internal  development  and  prosperity. 

Florence  was  the  capital  of  Italy  from  1865 
to  1870,  is  a  city  of  nearly  one  hundred  and 
forty  thousand  people,  and  is  one  of  the  finest 
cities  in  Italy.  Its  magnificent  churches,  gal- 
leries of  art,  and  art  treasures,  of  value  un- 
speakable, can  nowhere  be  excelled  in  a  place 
of  its  size.  Books  could  be  written  inade- 
quately describing  what  this  one  city  contains. 
It  lies  in  the  valley  of  the  Arno  River,  which 
runs  through  the  place,  and,  as  seen  by  me,  its 
waters  were  low  and  sluggish,  as  is  the  Missouri 
when  swollen  by  floods.  The  country  around  is 
highly  cultivated.  Hills,  with  villas  upon  them, 
churches,  and  costly  edifices  everywhere  in 
view,  give  a  wondrous  charm  to  the  landscape. 

Only  a  few  of  the  most  noted  places  that  I 
visited  will  be  mentioned.  The  Galleria  degli 
Uffizi,  with  its  sculptures  and  paintings,  is  ex- 
ceedingly rich  in  works  which  emanated  from 
the  hand  and  brain  of  the  greatest  artists  of  the 
■world.  As  well  might  one  attempt  to  portray 
the  glories  of  each  individual,  autumnal-tinted, 
forest  leaf  as  to  delineate  the  numberless 
paintings,  statues,  and  costly  gems  which  are 
there  exhibited. 


158  FAMOUS   CBUBCHES. 

It  is  not  for  me  to  sing  the  songs 
That  rush  with  a  thrill  to  the  heart ; 

It  is  not  for  me,  with  pen  or  brush. 
To  glorify  Nature  and  Art. 

The  Cathedral  was  commenced  six  centuries 
ago,  and  finished  nearly  two  hundred  years 
later.  It  is  massive,  being  five  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  long,  three  hundred  and  forty  feet  wide, 
and  having  a  dome  three  hundred  feet  high, 
and  all  beautifully  finished.  The  walls  of  the 
interior  are  lined  with  monuments,  statues,  and 
paintings. 

The  historic  Campanile,  a  tower  two  hundred 
and  ninety-two  feet  high,  was  completed  five 
hundred  years  ago.  Its  interior  is  richly  dec- 
orated with  colored  marble  and  with  statues. 
A  staircase  leads  to  the  top,  from  which  one 
obtains  an  excellent  sight  of  the  city  and  sur- 
roundings. The  Church  S.  Lorenzo,  with  the 
new  sacristy,  and  the  Chapel  of  the  Princes  (the 
burial  places  of  the  Grand  Dukes  of  the  Medici 
family),  comprise  together  as  interesting  a  place 
as  exists  in  Florence.  The  church  was  built 
in  1425,  and  is  the  custodian  of  ten  thousand 
manuscripts  of  great  value.  The  new  sacristy, 
built  by  Michael  Angelo,  contains  some  of  his 
choicest  works.  The  Chapel  of  the  Princes, 
in  its  elegance  and  beauty,  surpasses  the  power 
of    description.      It   is   in   form    octagon,  sur- 


FAREWELL   TO  FLOBENGE.  159 

mounted  by  a  dome  gorgeously  decorated. 
The  walls  sparkle  with  precious  stones  of  rarest 
kinds  and  with  costliest  marble.  Gorgeous 
frescoing,  gems,  diamonds,  and  emeralds  meet 
the  eye  everywhere.  It  is  said  that  more  than 
twenty-five  million  dollars  have  been  expended 
upon  this  chapel  alone. 

The  Church  of  Santa  Croce  is  another  mar- 
vel of  beauty,  costliness,  and  durability.  It  was 
commenced  in  1294,  and  completed  in  1442. 
There  I  saw  the  tomb  of  Michael  Angelo,  who 
died  in  1564  ;  near  by  is  that  of  Galileo  ;  a 
monument  to  Dante,  who  is  buried  at  Ravenna, 
and  tombs  of  other  illustrious  men.  In  the 
church  are  stained  glass  windows,  statues,  and 
paintings  of  great  notoriety  and  merit.  So  one 
might  speak  of  many  other  celebrated  places, — 
academies  of  art,  palaces,  and  museums  of  art. 
Taking  a  hack,  I  was  driven  to  most  portions 
of  the  city,  visiting  the  home  of  Dante,  on  a 
narrow  street,  and  the  grave  of  Americus 
Vespucius.  From  a  hill  we  got  a  beautiful 
view  of  Florence,  the  running  waters  of  the 
Arno,  and  the  high  elevations  beyond,  with 
trees,  flowers,  terraces,  and  villas.  My  ex- 
periences in  that  fair  Italian  city  were  most 
delightful,  and  I  left  it  with  pleasant  memories 
and  with  regret. 


CHAPTER    XIY. 

ROME,   NAPLES,   AJH)   POMPEII. 

"All  roads  lead  to  Rome."  So  my  steps 
turned  toward  the  Imperial  City.  It  draws 
one  as  the  magnet  attracts  the  steel,  as  the  sun 
the  dew,  as  the  sweetest  melodies  draw  listen- 
ing ears.  The  two  cities  are  one  hundred  and 
ninety-six  miles  apart,  and  in  about  eight  hours 
after  leaving  Florence  my  feet  were  busily 
treading  the  streets  of  the  "Eternal  City." 
The  Hotel  de  Paris  was  my  Roman  home. 
There  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  an  Eng- 
lish gentleman  and  his  wife,  most  agreeable 
people,  who  were  my  companions  in  tours 
about  Rome,  and  also  in  Naples.  It  was  Lieut.- 
Col.  C.  H.  Sheppard,  of  Her  Majesty's  Army  in 
Poona,  India,  with  which  he  had  been  con- 
nected for  twenty-seven  years.  At  one  time 
he  had  lived  in  Rome  for  several  months,  was 
familiar  with  the  city,  and  his  knowledge  and 
companionship  were  of  much  benefit  and  pleas- 
ure to  me. 

I  shall  not  attempt  a  description  of  a  place 
which  has  exercised  such  a  stupendous  influence 
in  the  affairs  of  the  world,  and  shall  only  allude 


PROQIiESSIVE  ITALIANS.  161 

Ibriefly  to  a  few  of  the  places  I  saw  during  my 
«tay,  and  which  are  seen  and  often  described 
by  numerous  visitors.  Mine  host  was  a  brainy, 
large-sized  Italian,  a  soldier  of  Garibaldi, 
wounded  in  the  wars  for  Italy's  unity,  and 
an  enthusiastic  defender  of  the  new  order  of 
things.  He,  like  many  other  progressive  Cath- 
olics, did  not  for  a  moment  hesitate  to  express 
his  positive  convictions,  among  which  were  that 
the  "Prisoner  of  the  Vatican"  should  let  politics 
alone,  and  attend  to  purely  spiritual  affairs. 
It  surprised  me  to  find  Catholics  who  would 
express  such  broad  and  progressive  sentiments, 
and  my  observation  was,  that  the  nearer  one 
gets  to  the  home  of  the  head  of  the  Roman 
Catholic  Church,  the  less  superstitious  is  their 
reverence  for  him,  although  his  religious  subjects 
spoke  of  him  with  respect.  In  all  portions  of 
Italy,  and  especially  in  Rome,  one  meets  quan- 
tities of  priests  and  monks,  and  ecclesiastics  of 
various  orders,  some  wearing  sandals  upon  their 
feet,  and  girded  about  and  clothed  in  a  most 
peculiar  manner.  They  are  seen  upon  every 
railway  train  and  in  every  town  of  any  size. 
It  is  enough  to  keep  any  nation  poor  to  support 
such  a  horde  of  ?io?i-producers,  and  fortunate 
is  Italy  in  being  largely  freed  from  them. 

One  of  the  first  places  visited  was  the  Forum, 


162  THE  FOBUM. 

where  many  noted  events  in  Roman  history 
took  place.  The  ancient  pavement  is  some 
forty  feet  below  the  surrounding  streets.  For 
centuries  it  was  covered  entirely.  Now  only 
ruins  mark  the  once  celebrated  spot.  There 
are  standing  columns,  pillars  of  a  temple,  and 
other  broken  relics  of  an  illustrious  past^ 
Trajan's  Column  stands  in  the  Forum  of  Trajan. 
It  is  of  marble,  and  most  remarkable  for  the 
vast  number  of  figures  upon  it — emblems  and 
mementos  of  successful  war.  It  has  been  im- 
itated in  the  Column  Vendome  in  Paris. 

The  Colosseum  was  completed  in  A.  D.  80- 
It  is  world-renowned,  and  one  of  the  most  im- 
posing of  structures,  though  in  ruins.  It  stands 
a  stupendous  relic  of  a  mighty  nation  and  of 
an  enterprising  era.  The  tiers  of  seats  are  still 
to  be  seen,  while  in  the  basement  of  the  struc- 
ture one  can  yet  discern  the  dens  and  places 
where  the  wild  beasts  were  kept.  About  one 
third  of  the  original  structure  is  now  standing. 
Of  course  I  visited  the  Triumphal  Arch  of  Con- 
stantine  and  Titus ;  was  driven  over  the  Appian 
Way,  built  by  Appius  Claudius  about  312  B.  C.^ 
a  main  highway  to  and  from  the  city;  and 
spent  considerable  time  in  St.  Peter's  Churchy 
the  most  imposing  and  largest  religious  edifice 
on  the  planet.     The  cross  upon  the  dome  is  four 


ST.    PETER'S   CnURGH.  163 

hundred  and  thirty-five  feet  from  the  ground. 
The  interior  is  wonderfully  impressive  and  rich 
in   columns    and   everything    else    of    beauty, 
apparently.      It  is  so   massive,   is  adorned   so 
profusely,  that   long   studying   is    required  in 
order  to  appreciate  its  scope  and  magnificence. 
Near  the  Church  of  St.  John  Lateran  is  the 
Holy  Staircase,  consisting  of  twenty-eight  mar- 
ble steps,  said  to  be  the  same  ascended  by  the 
Saviour  on  his  way  to  Pilate's  judgment  hall. 
The  tradition  is  that  they  were  brought  from 
-Jerusalem.     They  are  covered  with  boards,  and 
persons  who  ascend  are  required  to  do  so  upon 
their  bended  knees.     Holes  are  left  through  the 
boards  through  which  the  superstitious  worship- 
pers kiss  the   sacred  stone.     I  saw  a  woman 
mounting  these  steps,  one  at  a  time,  and  mut- 
tering a  prayer  and  crossing  herself  at  every 
step.     She  looked  to  me  as  though  a  thorough 
application    of   soap  and  water  would  do  her 
more  good,  bodily  and  spiritually,  than  the  exer- 
cises in  which  she  was  engaged !     In  another 
place  was  the  image  of  the  Virgin,  which  the 
simple    people    claim   has  the  gift  of  healing. 
Many  were  before  it,  bowing,  worshipping,  and 
kissing  its  toes  and  feet.     All  classes  were  repre- 
sented  before  it,  from  refined  and  cultivated 
looking  ladies  to  the  brigand-looking  man,  whom 


164  BATES   OF  CABACALLA. 

one  would  dread  to  meet  alone  in  the  dark.  A 
refined  lady,  elegantly  dressed  and  evidently 
belonging  to  the  upper  class  of  society,  wiped 
the  feet  very  carefully,  and  then  kissed  the  big- 
toe  of  one  of  them,  as  did  her  little  babe. 

One  of    the  greatest  and  most  remarkable 
ruins  in  Rome  are  the  Baths  of  Caracalla,  and 
furnish  an  idea  of  the  splendor  and  luxury  of 
Rome  in  ancient  days.     They  were  begun  in 
the  year  212,  and  in  them  one  thousand   six 
hundred  bathers  could  be  accommodated  at  the 
same  time.     The  baths  covered  a  large  area^ 
were  of  wondrous  beauty  and  richness,  and  the 
great  ruin  impresses  these  facts  upon  every  one. 
I  also  visited  numerous   halls  and  galleries 
of  art  in  the  Vatican,  with  libraries  and  mu- 
seums of  antiquities.     The  choicest   works  of 
art  of  Michael  Angelo  and  Raphael  are  there 
exhibited.     Among  artists  they  are  considered 
the  crowning  works  of  art  in  the  world.    I  saw 
the  last  great  work  painted  by  Raphael,  "  The 
Transfiguration."     Years   could   be    profitably 
spent  in  the  study  of  these  galleries  and  their 
treasures  beyond  value.      Always  have  I  had 
a  great  desire  to  visit  the  Catacombs.    We  were 
driven  across  the  Campagna,  whose  pestilential 
air  was  disgusting  and  dangerous  to  breathe^ 
By  the  side  of   a  torpid  stream  which  flows^ 


CATACOMBS   OF  ST.   CALLISTUS.         1G5 

through   it,    there    are    vegetable    growths   of 
tropical  greenness  and  rankness. 

The  Catacombs  of  St.  Callistus,  which  I  vis- 
ited, are  in  the  environs  of  Rome.  A  small 
brick  tenement  marked  the  place  of  entrance. 
At  a  neighboring  house  a  guide  was  secured, 
who  with  a  lighted  candle  led  the  way  down 
the  steps  to  the  caverns  below,  and  we  all  bore 
candles  in  our  hauj3s.  The  steps  are  cut  in  the 
soft,  porous  stone,  which  is  easily  worked,  and 
descend  from  twenty-eight  to  fifty  feet  beneath 
the  surface  of  the  ground.  It  is  claimed  that 
in  continuous  length  these  Catacombs  would 
extend  five  hundred  and  forty-five  miles.  The 
passages  lead  in  various  directions,  and  at  the 
sides  one  sees  the  coffin-sized  apertures  cut  in 
the  rock,  in  some  of  which,  lying  at  full  length, 
are  the  bones  of  the  early  occupants.  We 
were  led  from  passage  to  passage,  through 
these  dark,  chill  chambers  of  death,  where  our 
lights  seemed  out  of  place,  making  objects 
look  weird  and  wild  in  those  chambers  of 
silence  and  gloom.  Sepulchres,  chapels,  and 
shrines  were  shown  and  explained  to  us  by  the 
loquacious  monk.  For  a  long  time  we  wandered 
in  the  gloomy,  strange  home  of  the  dead,  till 
at  length  we  gladly  emerged  into  the  light  of 
day  and  glorious  sunshine. 


166  MODERN  BOME. 

The  Rome  of  the  present  is  vastly  different 
from  the  Rome  of  antiquity.  It  has  an  air  of 
thrift  about  it,  and  vast  improvements  are  be- 
ing carried  forward.  The  slow,  torpid  River 
Tiber,  which  flows  through  it,  is  being  dredged, 
thereby  deepening  its  channel;  old  buildings 
demolished  upon  its  banks,  great  stone  walls 
erected  by  its  shores,  and  the  dirt  and  sedi- 
ment from  the  stream  lifted  and  placed  there 
as  on  the  Clyde  at  Glasgow,  and  beautiful  em- 
bankments will  eventually  be  made,  as  on  the 
Thames  at  London  and  on  the  Charles  at 
Boston.  These  changes  and  improvements  are 
everywhere  apparent.  The  new  portions  of 
the  place  are  built  solidly,  substantially,  and  in 
some  places  elegantly. 

What  has  been  written  is  only  an  imperfect 
sketch  of  what  I  beheld,  or  what  any  one  can 
see  in  a  short  time  in  this  historic  city.  It  is  a 
most  delightful  place  for  the  artist,  antiquarian, 
or  scholar. 

Time  lingered  not;  and  leaving  Rome,  I 
started  for  Naples,  one  hundred  and  sixty-two 
miles  distant,  and  passed  through  localities  pro- 
ductive, and  abounding  with  orchards  of  olive 
trees.  In  some  parts,  there  were  surrounding 
mountains,  with  towns  picturesquely  clinging 
to    their  sides.      At  Cassino,  ninety-two  miles 


MONASTERY  OF  MONTE   CASSINO.      167 

from  Rome,  I  had  a  fine  sight  of  the  castle-like 
monastery  of  Monte  Cassino,  a  massive  structure 
covering  a  large  area  and  situated  on  a  lofty 
hill  west  of  the  town.  St.  Benedict  founded 
it,  in  529,  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  temple  of 
Apollo.  It  presents  a  most  attractive  and 
striking  appearance,  and  has  been  called  a  "  na- 
tional monument."  Its  inmates  "are  the  in- 
telligent keepers  of  one  of  the  most  precious 
libraries  in  the  world,  and  they  educate  about 
eighty  pupils  in  theology."  The  most  precious 
manuscripts  and  documents  are  kept  by  this 
institution.  It  is  famous  for  its  hospitality,  and 
no  payment  is  asked  of  those  who  seek  its 
board  and  shelter,  although  travellers  usually 
leave  a  reasonable  amount  for  accommodation. 
At  Sparanisi,  Mount  Vesuvius,  with  smoking  top, 
first  burst  upon  my  eager  vision.  We  passed 
through  the  very  ancient  town  of  Capua,  once 
the  winter  quarters  of  Hannibal.  The  whole 
journey  is  one  of  remarkable  interest;  every 
place  is  historic. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  day  of  my  departure 
from  Rome,  I  was  in  Naples,  looking  with  ad- 
miring eyes  on  its  attractions  and  matchless  bay. 
For  years  it  had  been  a  strong  desire  with  me 
to  visit  the  scenes  of  ancient  Pompeii,  the 
long-buried  city    of   nearly   eighteen    hundred 


168  iJV  POMPEII. 

years,  great  portions  of  which  have  been  re- 
cently excavated,  and  thrown  open  again  to 
the  light  of  day  and  to  the  tread  of  human  feet. 
Its  history  and  fate  are  marvellously  romantic 
and  astonishing.  It  was  a  city  of  at  least  twenty 
thousand  souls,  situated  thirteen  miles  south  of 
Naples,  which,  after  some  visitations  from  vol- 
canic eruptions,  was  finally  completely  over- 
whelmed and  destroyed  by  showers  of  ashes 
and  red-hot  lava  from  the  eruptions  of  Mount 
Vesuvius,  on  the  24th  of  August,  A.  D.  79. 
At  least  two  thousand  people  are  supposed  ta 
have  perished.  The  site  of  Pompeii  was  en- 
tirely unknown  for  a  long  period,  and  was  dis- 
covered in  1748  by  a  peasant.  Its  fame,  inter- 
est, and  great  attractions  to  all  the  world  are 
largely  owing  to  its  destruction  and  centuries 
of  burial.  The  ashes  and  lava  of  Vesuvius, 
while  making  it  immortal,  have  preserved  for 
all  time  the  manner  of  life  of  its  ancient  in- 
habitants. It  stands  upon  a  sharp  eminence, 
from  which  one  gets  a  beautiful  view  of  the 
restless  sea,  with  islands  in  it  which  enhances 
its  beauty. 

It  was  a  cloudless  day  when  I  left  Naples  for 
the  buried  and  resurrected  city.  Procuring  a 
guide,  we  went  by  the  street  Porta  Marina, 
"which  is  a  paved  and  vaulted  passage  of  con- 


ITS   CUBIOUS  SIGHTS.  169 

siderable  width  and  length,  and  sharply  ascend- 
ing to  the  high  ground  on  which  the  city  was 
built.  On  the  right  of  this  passage  is  a  mu- 
seum, filled  with  curiosities  which  have  been 
exhumed.  There  are  loaves  of  bread  just  as 
they  were  found  in  the  bakers'  shops,  and 
baked  more  than  one  thousand  eight  hundred 
years  ago.  There  were  many  different  kinds  of 
grain  and  various  articles  of  food.  Casts  of 
human  corpses,  and  a  dog  in  its  terrible  death 
agony,  were  there,  beside  vases,  bronze  vessels, 
and  other  curious  relics  of  the  past.  The  guide 
then  led  the  way  to  the  Forum,  to  ruined  tem- 
ples, theatres,  ancient  baths,  fountains,  shops  of 
trade,  houses  of  the  rich  and  illustrious  and  of 
the  poor  and  lowly,  to  their  bedrooms  and  din- 
ing-rooms, to  the  open-air  courts,  covered  with 
mosaics,  some  having  statuary  and  fountains; 
to  their  kitchens,  with  their  furniture.  There 
were  the  sleeping  rooms,  where  had  been  their 
couches  and  beds.  The  rooms  are  ridiculously 
small,  and  the  life  of  these  old  Roman  citizens 
in  many  respects  was  rude  indeed,  and  many 
things  existed  then  which  would  shock  the  re- 
fined tastes  of  people  of  the  present.  There 
were  bakeshops,  with  their  deep  brick  ovens  for 
baking  as  at  present.  Stone  mills  were  there 
for   grinding   corn,  vessels   for   the   flour   and 


170  ITS   HOUSES  AND  STBEETS. 

^ater,  and  the  kneading  troughs.  The  en- 
trance to  the  houses  of  the  people  was  usually 
through  a  narrow  passage  into  an  open  court, 
which  was  surrounded  by  many  rooms.  The 
Toofs  are  gone,  and  as  one  looks  from  a  high 
elevation  over  the  exhumed  place,  he  sees  the 
standing  walls  of  buildings,  from  which  the 
doors  are  gone.  The  streets  are  very  narrow, 
often  paved  with  large  irregular-shaped  stones, 
into  which  were  deeply  worn  ruts  at  least 
six  inches  in  width  and  nearly  the  same  in 
depth,  made  by  the  carriage  wheels  of  its  occu- 
pants centuries  ago.  Large  stones,  something 
like  eighteen  inches  high,  were  placed  at  the 
corners  of  streets,  on  which  people  could  walk 
from  side  to  side.  In  the  house  of  Sallust, 
from  among  the  pavement  stones,  I  gathered 
some  maiden-hair  fern  as  a  memento  of  the 
spot.  I  spent  several  hours  in  wandering  about 
the  city.  It  was  deserted,  except  by  other 
tourists  with  their  guides,  and  a  number  of  bare- 
footed mechanics,  who  were  at  work  making  re- 
pairs, to  preserve  some  portions  of  the  place 
from  the  ravages  of  time.  It  was  a  strange 
and  novel  experience  to  walk  through  streets 
made  and  paved  before  the  Christian  era,  and 
to  have  a  sight  into  those  old  homes,  and  catch 
glimpses  of  the  lives  of  a  people  who  for  more. 


MOUNT  VESUVIUS.  171 

than  eighteen  hundred  years  had  been  dust. 
Mount  Vesuvius,  grand,  mighty,  and  majestic, 
towered  up  against  the  sky,  some  five  miles 
away,  and  a  pyramid  of  smoke  issued  from  its 
heaving  summit.  This  was  my  most  southern 
point,  and  from  this  place  commenced  my 
return   journey.  ^ 


CHAPTER    XV. 

HOMEWAED-BOUND. 

When  the  evening  shadows  had  enveloped 
the  ruins  of  Pompeii,  I  took  train  for  Naples. 
The  shores  of  the  bay  were  aglow  with  lights 
from  myriads  of  homes,  and  from  the  high  sum- 
mit of  Vesuvius  a  fiery  deluge  of  red-hot  lava 
was  issuing  which,  like  molten  iron,  was  in  a 
^reat  stream  flowing  down  the  sides  of  the 
mountain.  On  arrival  at  Naples,  I  was  imme- 
diately driven  to  the  Grande  Hotel,  which  is 
rightly  named,  where  my  coming  had  been 
heralded,  and  where  my  greeting  and  reception 
hy  the  landlord  was  with  all  the  warmth  and 
attention  of  an  old  friend.  Lieut.-Col.  Charles 
H.  Sheppard,  of  Her  Majesty's  service,  of  Bom- 
bay, India,  with  his  wife,  who  had  been  my 
companions  in  visits  about  Rome,  had  preceded 
me  to  Naples  and  were  fellow-guests,  and  made 
my  Stay  particularly  pleasant.  The  hotel  is 
magnificently  situated  near  the  bay,  and  is  in  a 
most  agreeable  part  of  the  city.  My  stay  in 
Naples  was  comparatively  brief.  From  child- 
hood the  sentiment,  "  See  Naj)les  and  die,"  had 
been   familiar.      The    probability   is   that   the 


NAPLES.  173 

tourist  who  inspects  Naples  thoroughly  will 
almost  wish  that  he  had  died  before  he  saw  some 
portions  of  the  city !  It  is  the  most  populous 
place  in  Italy,  having  a  population  exceeding 
half  a  million.  Many  of  the  streets  are  narrow 
and  dirty,  and  crowded  with  human  beings. 
Men  with  donkeys,  -with  little  carts  filled  with 
all  manner  of  vegetables  and  tropical  fruits, 
and  men  dra\i;dng  the  carts  themselves,  fill  the 
streets,  making  them  uproarious  with  their 
noise.  In  a  small  square  I  saw  a  boy  holding  a 
cow,  and  selling  milk  as  he  milked  it,  in  small 
tumblers  and  dippers,  to  the  eager  people  who 
thronged  about  him.  Figs,  as  they  were  taken 
from  the  trees,  were  abundant.  But  the  out- 
line of  Naples  is  beauty  itself,  along  a  coast 
■ha\dng  points  of  attraction  unsurpassed  in  the 
world,  built  over  terraced  and  half-circular  hills, 
with  a  body  of  water  in  its  front  matchless  in 
its  loveliness;  and  above,  forever  in  view  and 
always  standing  like  a  guardian  sentinel,  or  may 
be  destroying  angel,  with  its  pillar  of  smoke 
by  day,  and  a  pillar  of  belching  fire  by  night, 
Mount  Vesuvius  keej^s  eternal  watch  and  guard. 
The  loveliness  of  the  Bay  of  Naples  has  not 
been  exaggerated.  It  cannot  be.  Nowhere 
above  peaceful  waters  are  the  skies  dreamier, 
purer,   or  bluer.      Nowhere  are  these  charms 


174  THE   MEDITERBANEAN  SEA. 

photographed    into    shimmering    sea    with    a 
greater  degree  of  perfection. 

I  had  secured  passage  on  the  Steamer  City  of 
New  York  from  Liverpool  to  New  York,  to  sail 
at  a  certain  date,  and  time  was  rapidly  slipping 
away  in  travelling  and  sight-seeing  in  the  sunny 
land  of  Italy.  I  was  now  homeward  bound > 
One  of  my  fellow-guests  at  the  hotel  was  Eev. 
E.  M.  McKeever,  a  Koman  Catholic  priest  of 
Latrobe,  Penn.  We  became  acquainted  and 
were  fellow-travellers  as  far  as  Rome, — a 
most  genial  companion  and  broad-minded  man,, 
whom  it  was  a  pleasure  to  meet  and  know. 
My  route  lay  along  the  shore  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean Sea,  of  which  I  caught  many  glimpses. 
In  the  evening  I  arrived  at  Pisa,  where  I  passed 
the '  night,  and,  as  my  time  was  limited,  was- 
obliged  to  leave  without  a  sight  of  its  "  Leaning 
Tower."  The  journey  from  Pisa  to  Genoa  is 
a  little  more  than  a  hundred  miles,  is  one  of 
great  attractiveness,  being  along  the  shore 
of  the  sea,  and  at  the  base  and  through  moun- 
tains. There  are  eighty-two  tunnels,  making 
in  the  whole  twenty-five  miles.  The  scenery  is 
of  the  finest,  especially  at  Spezia,  Nervi,  and  be- 
tween the  latter  town  and  Genoa.  Numerous 
watering-places  abound,  summer  and  winter 
resorts.     One  has  views  of  the  olive-clad  moun- 


GENOA  AND   TURIN.  176 

tains,  with  villas  and  homes,  and  beneath  the 
blue  waters  of  the  broad  Mediterranean  Sea. 
Only  a  short  stop  was  made  at  Genoa,  but  long 
enough  to  catch  a  view  of  its  semi-circular  bay 
and  glimpses  of  the  city,  the  houses  of  which 
rise  tier  above  tier  from  the  sea  to  the  sur- 
rounding heights.  The  city  contains  some 
one  hundred  and  ninety  thousand  people,  and 
its  situation  is  commanding  and  imposing.  My 
journey  was  continued  to  Turin,  where  I  made 
a  short  stay.  It  was  the  capital  of  Italy  from 
1859  to  1865,  and  has  a  population  of  over 
two  hundred  and  seventy-five  thousand.  It 
was  destroyed  by  Hannibal  two  hundred  and 
eighteen  years  before  Christ,  and  has  had  a 
turbulent  and  stormy  history. 

From  Turin  I  went  direct,  via  Mont  Cenis 
Tunnel  and  Macon,  to  Paris,  four  hundred  and 
ninety-six  miles,  occup}dng  twenty  hours. 
After  leaving  Turin  we  passed  through  many 
tunnels,  rising  to  higher  elevations.  The 
scenery  in  some  places  is  exceptionally  fine. 
We  looked  down  upon  fertile  valleys,  flowing 
rivers,  and  quiet  towns,  and  beyond  them  to 
other  mountains.  We  passed  through  Mont 
Cenis  Tunnel,  which  is  seven  and  three-fourths 
miles  in  length,  twenty-six  feet  wide,  in  height 
nineteen  feet,  and  mostly  lined  with  masonry. 


176  THE  MONT  CENTS   TUNNEL. 

It  pierces  the  Col  de  Frejus,  a  mountain  eight 
thousand  three  hundred  and  thirty-eight  feet 
high,  and  in  its  centre  the  tunnel  is  four  thou- 
sand two  hundred  and  forty-five  feet  below  the 
top  of  the  mountain.  Its  cost  was  fifteen  mil- 
lion dollars.  It  is  lighted,  and  it  takes  one- 
half  hour  to  pass  through  it.  Tunnel  travelling 
is  not  pleasant.  The  air  is  bad,  and  if  the  win- 
dows of  the  compartment  are  for  a  moment 
open,  the  passengers  are  blackened  with  soot, 
smoke,  and  cinders.  I  travelled  all  night,  and 
during  this  long,  disagreeable  ride  denounced, 
inwardly  and  outwardly,  the  stupid  ofiicials  of 
European  railways  for  their  negligence  in  pro- 
viding decent  comforts  and  accommodations  in 
their  railway  carriages ;  and 

With  deep  and  bitter  wailing, 
And  with  anguish  unavailing, 

I  sighed  for  the  luxury  of  American  "cars." 
The  night  passed  away,  and  when  the  first  gray 
streaks  of  morning  painted  the  skies  we  were 
whirled  into  Paris.  In  the  forenoon  (11.15 
A.  M.)  I  left  the  Nord  Station  for  Calais,  crossed 
the  choppy  Channel  to  Dover,  and  reached 
London  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening. 

Weary  after  long  and  continuous  journeyings, 
I  found  rest  and  comfort  in  my  hotel  home  in 
London.     Making  only  a  temporary  stay,  I  left 


ADIEU  TO  ENGLAND.  177 

for  Liverpool,  and  in  due  time  was  on  board 
the  City  of  New  York,  where  several  English 
friends  came  to  wish  me  a  "bon  voyage,"  and 
to  speak  the  always  sad  "  Good-by." 

The  last  words  were  said,  the  adieus  made, 
the  many  friends  of  the  passengers  hurried  from 
the  ship,  and,  amid  cheers  and  waving  of  hand- 
kerchiefs, the  ship  started,  we  bade  old,  dear 
England  farewell,  and  were  once  more  upon 
"  the  great  deep."  It  was  pleasant  to  meet 
on  shipboard  people  whom  I  had  known  before, 
and  some  who  had  travelled  with  me  from  Paris 
almost  to  the  Italian  border.  One  gentleman 
had  twice  before  crossed  the  Atlantic  with  me. 

The  ocean  voyage  was  similar  to  most  others. 
Cloudy  days,  wet  days,  and  fair  days  came  in 
their  course,  —  and  how  fair  is  a  sunny  day  at 
sea,  and  what  ocean  voyager  has  not  joyed  in 
the  glory  of  the  sunrise !  I  have  risen  early 
to  behold  it,  and  once  it  made  a  strong  impres- 
sion upon  me.  The  sun  arose  out  of  the  waters, 
and  as  it  ascended  into  the  heavens  fleecy 
clouds  obscured  its  brightness.  A  jutting, 
ragged  fringe  of  gold  lined  their  edges,  while 
upon  the  distant  sea  a  band  of  gold,  brighter 
than  the  day,  bounded  the  utmost  stretch  of 
vision.  And  who  has  not  stood  upon  deck  and 
cast  papers  over  the  raiUng,  which  have  been 


178      ABBIVAL  IN  A   PLEASANT  PORT. 

caught  up  by  the  caressing  breezes,  borne  upon 
their  strong,  swift  pinions  far  out  to  sea,  wafted 
up  and  down,  till  at  length  they  laid  them  upon 
the  waters  as  gently  as  a  mother  would  put  her 
sick  and  weary  child  upon  its  couch  to  rest. 

When  we  reached  Sandy  Hook,  the  pilot  ran 
the  vessel  aground  with  a  dull  thud.  For 
twelve  hours  the  great  vessel,  with  its  fifteen 
hundred  people,  waited  for  relief.  At  length 
eight  tugboats  were  fastened  to  the  steamer 
and  unitedly  failed  to  move  it  out  of  the  oozing 
mud.  At  last  the  impatient  and  indignant 
passengers  were  transferred  to  the  tugboats, 
and  in  the  chilly  air  were  taken  some  eighteen 
miles  and  landed  at  the  Inman  Pier,  and  soon  I 
was  at  my  home  in  New  Hampshire.  The 
wanderer  had  come  "  to  his  own  again."  The 
second  journey  in  foreign  lands  was  ended,  and 
my  experiences,  some  of  them  "Among  the 
Scotch-Irish :  A  Tour  in  Seven  Countries,"  are, 
dear  reader -companions  of  my  journeyings, 
given  to  you  in  this  book. 


HISTORICAL. 


II  EiULiEST  Eisiii  ii  mumi 


COVERING  NEARLY  THREE  HUNDRED  YEARS,  FROM 
ABOUT  ICOO  TO  1891,  OF  THE 


filSSIOiyiiSIIOKI  MIRl 


OF  SCOTLAND,  IRELAND,  AND  AMERICA; 


WITH    THAT    OF    MANY    OF   THEIR    DESCENDANTS,  AND 

ADDITIONAL  FACTS  RELATING    TO   THE   SIXTEEN 

FIRST    SETTLERS    AND    THEIR  FAMILIES  OF 

LONDONDERRY,    NEW    HAMPSHIRE, 

AVHO  EMIGRATED  TO  AMERICA 

IN  1719; 


Also,  Statistics  Conceiiiing  the  McKean  and  Bell  Families ; 


WITH  A  POEM,  "THE  HEROES  OF  THE  SIEGE  OF 
LONDONDERRY,  IRELAND,  1688-89." 


By  LEONARD  ALLISON  MORRISON,  A.  M., 

OF  WINDHAM,  NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 


LOWELL,  MASS. 

Morning  Mail  Print:  No.  147  Central  Street. 

1891. 


THE  DINSMOOR  FAMILY. 


This  family  of  historic  fame  is  of  Scotch  blood,  and  in 
the  earliest  account  of  any  of  this  race  their  home  is  found 
upon  Scottish  soil. 

ORIGIN   OF   THE   NAME. 

The  name  Dinsraoor  is  rarely  found  in  Scotland,  al- 
though D«nsmore  is  frequently  seen,  and  Dinsm^^n-  and 
Dinsmore  are  occasionally  observed.  In  Ireland,  the 
patronymic  is  borne  by  many  persons  in  the  vicinity  of 
Ballyraoney,  County  Antrim,  and  thfey  are  presumably 
descendants  of  John  Dinsmoor^,  the  emigrant  to  Ulster 
from  Scotland.  Dinsmoor  aj>pears  a.s  the  origin.al  method 
of  spelling,  and  was  generally  followed  till  about  1800. 
Since  then  it  became  the  fashion  for  some  to  spell  their 
name  Dinsmore,  and  it  is  frequently  seen  as  Dunsmoor, 
Dunmore,  Dunsmore,  Densmore,  Densmoor,  but  generally 
the  orthography  is  Dinsmoor  and  Dinsmore,  the  latter 
methods  frequently  appearing  in  the  same  family,  and 
-often  each  has  been  adopted  by  the  same  individual  at 
diff<!rent  periods  of  life. 

The  family  is  not  an  ancient  one,  nor,  on  the  whole, 
very  numerous ;  and  upon  the  other  side  of  the  water 
the  name  has  never  been  borne,  to  ray  knowledge,  by  the 
gentry  or  nobility.  The  Dinsmoors  were  commoners. 
Kev.  John  W.  Dinsmore,  D.  1).,  of  Bloomington,  111., 
gives  this  as  the  probable  origin  of  this  patronymic  :  — 

"I  have  no  doubt  but  that  the  original  ancestor  wrote, 
if  he  could  write,  Dunsemoor  (dunse,  a  little  hill,  and 
^noor,  heath).  He  probably  lived  on,  or  by,  a  little  hill 
at  the  edge  of  the  heath,  or  moor." 


DINSMOOBS   OF  SCOTLAND. 


THE   FIRST   KXOWN   DINSMOOR. 

1,  Laird  Dinsmoor^,  the  progenitor,  and  earliest 
known  ancestor  of  the  Dinsmoors,  was  a  Scotchman, 
born  in  Auld  Scotia  certainly  not  far  from  the  year 
1600.  The  fact  that  he  was  called  Laird  would  indi- 
cate that  he  was  a  man  of  some  note  and  consequence  in 
his  locality.  He  was  a  farmer,  had  tenants  under  him, 
and  dwelt  on  the  bank  of  the  flowing  Tweed,  at  a  place 
which  tradition  has  variously  called  Achenmead,  Auchin- 
mede,  Aikenmead,  and  other  variations  of  the  name. 
This  spot  has  not  been  identified  and  located  by  his  in- 
quiring and  investigating  descendants.  Tradition  asserts 
that  he  was  a  follower  and  adherent  of  Douglass,  and  as 
one  of  those  powerful  chiefs  had  his  home  in  a  fortress, 
whose  walls  were  of  wondrous  thickness  and  strength, 
placed  on  a  projecting  rock  in  a  fiercely  wind-swept  and 
narrow  defile,  on  the  north  bank  of  the  River  Tweed, 
known  as  Neidpath  Castle,  near  the  City  of  Peebles,  it  is 
not  amiss  to  hazard  the  conjecture  that  Laird  Dins- 
moor's  home  was  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  Fair  and 
beautiful  is  that  locality,  and  the  river,  as  it  rushes 
through  the  deep  gorge  on  its  way  from  the  highlands 
to  the  sea,  sings  of  Scotland,  and  is  itself  one  of  the 
fairest  streams  in  the  home  of  our  forefathers. 

Of  the  mental  characteristics  of  the  Laird  we  know 
but  little.  But  it  is  evident  that  he  was  strongly  imbued 
with  the  prevailing  principle  of  his  age,  that  the  eldest 
born  should  receive  undue  homage  and  respect  from  the 
younger, —  a  sentiment  which  was  repugnant  to  the 
second  son,  to  his  American  descendants,  and  to  all 
Americans.  His  home  being  ujon  the  bank  of  the 
Tweed,  as  he  was  living  there  some  two  hundred  and 
twenty-five  years  ago,  or  about  1667,  it  is  probable  that 
he  finished  his  days  in  the  land  of  bis  birth,  and  that  his 
dust  mingles  with  the  soil  of  his  native  Scotland. 
"  Requiescat  in  pace." 

CHILDKEN    OF   LAIKD    DINSMOORS  OF    SCOTLAND. 

2.    Dinsmoor*,  whose  Christian  name  is  not  known,  was  born  in 

Scotland,  presumably  about  1648.  He  remained  in  Scotland,  and 
being  the  eldest,  inherited  his  father's  titles,  dignities,  homage, 
and  respect.  ,    ,     ^ 

3.  John  Dinsmoor',  of  Bally wattick,  Ballymoney,  Ireland. 


niNSMOOBS   OF  IRELAND.  6 

John  Dinsmoor-,  b.  in  Scotland,  presumfibly  about 
1650.  lie  was  required,  by  his  fatlier,  it  is  said,  with 
uncovered  head,  to  hold  the  off  stirrup  of  his  elder 
brother's  saddle,  when  he  mounted  his  horse.  He  felt 
humiliated  by  the  requirement,  and  in  his  seventeenth 
year,  or  about  1667,  he  forsook  his  father's  house  and 
early  home,  his  kindred  and  native  land,  and  went  forth, 
bearing  no  property  or  goods  with  him,  save  a  cane  in 
his  hand,  his  wearing  apparel  upon  his  person,  with 
striped  woollen  hose  upon  his  stalwart  feet,  and  a  gray 
bonnet  of  huge  extent  which  covered  his  independent 
and  manly  head.  Thus  he  left  his  native  land,  and  thus 
he  first  appeared  in  the  Province  of  Ulster,  in  the  Parish 
of  Bally wattick,  one  of  the  town  lands  of  Ballymoney, 
County  of  Antrim,  Ireland.  For,  like  thousands  of  others 
of  the  best  blood  of  the  Lowlands  of  Scotland  at  that 
time,  he  crossed  the  belt  of  sea  dividing  the  two  coun- 
tries, and  helped  to  reclaim  the  cruelly  confiscated  land 
of  the  native  Celts.  There  he  made  his  home,  and 
although  the  young  adventurer  was  in  a  foreign  land,  yet 
he  was  surrounded,  not  by  a  strange  people,  but  by  those 
of  his  own  race  and  nation.  He  was  married,  at  the  age 
of  twenty,  about  1670,  was  left  a  widower  at  seventy, 
lived  a  widower  for  twenty-nine  years,  and  was  "gathered 
to  his  fathers"  at  the  great  age  of  ninety-nine  years.  He 
was  widely  known  for  his  good  sense,  his  moral  worth, 
his  fervent  piety. 

lie  established  the  home  in  IJallywattick,  and  for  gen- 
erations his  descendants  have  there  resided,  the  last  of 
them  leaving  the  place  in  1838. 

CHILDREN  OF  JOHN  DINSMOOR',  THK  SCOTCH   KMIORANT  TO  IRKI-AND. 

4.  John  Dinsmoor' (see  No.  8),  b.  as  early  as  it.71,  in  Ballywattick.  Bal- 

lymoney,  County  Antrim,  Ireland.  Emigrated  to  Londonderry.  N. 
H.,  that  portion  which  is  now  Windham.  N.  H..  as  early  .as  1723, 
and  is  the  ancestor  of  most  of  the  Dinsmoors  of  New  Hampshire. 

5.  Robert  Dinsmoor'  (12).  b.  in  Hallywattlck.  Ireland,  as  early  as  1673; 

res.  Ballywattick,  Ireland;  livinK  tliere  in  !715. 

C.  Adam  Dinsmoor'  (58), b.  BallywatticK  as  early  as  ir,7.5;  of  him  there 
is  extant  no  exact  record,  only  the  general  one.  that  he  lived  at 
Ballywattick.  Ireland,  was  the  ancestor  of  many  Dinsmoors, 
and  has  had  his  name  perpetuated  in  his  descendants  and  distant 
relatives  in  succeedinp  generations  to  the  pn-sent  time. 

7.  Samuel  Dinsmoor*,  b.  B.allywattirk,  Ireland,  presnniahly  as  earlv  as 
1677;  of  him  there  is  no  definite  record.  But  we  know  that  these 
three  brothers,  Adam',  Robert',  and  .Samuel',  were  the  ancestors 
of  most,  If  not  all,  of  the  Dinsmoors  now  in  Ireland,  and  of  those 


niNSMOOBS   OF  NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 


who  have  emigrated  from  Ireland  to  the  Uuited  States  at  different 
times,  with  tlie  exception  of  John  Dinsmoor',  their  brother,  of 
New  Hampshire,  and  his  descendants. 

8.  Job n  Din smoor 3  (4),  John 2,  Zaire? Din sraoori.  He 
was  b.  in  Ballywattick,  Ballymoney,  County  Antrim,  Ire- 
land, as  early  as  1671  (as  bis  son  Robert  was  b.  in  1692), 
was  the  progenitor  of  most  of  tbe  Dinsmoors  of  iSTew 
Hampshire,  and  came  to  America  as  early  as  1723.  He 
was  taken  prisoner  by  the  Indian?,  and,  after  various 
adventures,  finally  made  his  appearance  in  the  Scotch  set- 
tlement of  Londonderry,  N.  II.  With  many  of  the  people 
there  he  was  acquainted,  having  known  them  in  Ireland. 
He  made  his  home  in  what  is  now  Windham.  Being  a 
mason,  he  built  a  stone  house,  in  which  he  lived,  and 
where  he  d.  in  1741.  The  place  is  occupied,  in  1891,  by 
Phineas  D.  Scott.  His  wife  and  children  joined  him  in 
Windham,  N.  H. 

CHILDREN,  BORN  IN  BALLYWATTICK,  IRELAND. 

9.    Kobert  Dinsmoor*  (11),  b.  1692;  res.  Windham,  N.  H. 
10.    Elizabeth  Dinsmoor*,  m.  John  Hopkins,  lived  near  her  father  and 
brother  in  Windham,  N.  H.,  and  was  the  ancestor  of  most  of  th« 
Hopkins  name  in  that  section  of  the  comitry. 

11.  Robert  Dinsmoor*  (9),  previously  mentioned, 
m.  Margaret  Orr,  in  Ireland,  and  he  and  his  wife  and 
four  children  came  to  jSTew  Hampshire  in  1730.  He  was 
prominent  in  the  town,  filled  various  public  positions, 
and  his  last  years  were  spent  upon  the  farm  owned  in 
1891  by  Edwin  O.  Dinsmoor,  a  descendant,  four  genera- 
tions removed.  He  d.  Oct.  14,  1751.  His  wife  d.  June 
2,  1752. 

Many  of  their  descendants  have  risen  to  distinction, 
and  high  honors  have  crowned  the  labors  of  their  lives, 
among  them  Col.  Silas  Dinsmoor^  (John^,  Robert*, 
John3,  John^,  Laird  Dinsmoor^),  his  grandson,  the 
noted  Indian  agent,  a  man  of  versatility  of  gifts,  of 
marked  abilitv,  who  was  b.  in  Windham,  IST.  H.,  Sept. 
26,  1766,  and'  d.  at  Bellevue,  Ky.,  June  17,  1847.  His 
wife  was  Mary  Gordon,  and  his  son,  Thomas  A.  W. 
Dinsmoor 7,  lives  at  Kirksville,  Adair  Co.,  Mo.  Robert 
Dinsmoor"  (William^,  Robert*,  John^,  John^,  Laird 
Dinsmoor^),  his  grandson,  was  well  known  as  the  "Rus- 
tic Bard,"  a  volume  of  whose  poems,  mostly  written  in 


THE    HISTORIAN   OF   THE  BINSMOOHS.      7 

the  Scotch,  dialect  was  published.     He  was  b.  in  Wind- 
ham, Oct.  7,   1757,  and  d.  there  March   16,  1836.      A 
brother  of  the  latter  was  Gov.  Samuel  Dinsmoore,  b,  in 
Windham,  N.  H.,  July  1,  1766,  a  graduate  of  Dartmouth 
College,  a  member  of  Congress,  and  Governor  of  New 
Hampshire,     He  m.  Mary  Boyd  Reid,  daughter  of  Gen- 
eral Reid  of  Revolutionary  fame,  and  d.  March  15,  1835. 
Their  son,  Samuel  Dinsmoor^,  was  also  Governor  of  New 
Hampshire.     They   lived   in   Keene,   N.   H.     Margaret 
Dinsmoore,  a  sister  of  the  "Rustic  Bard"  and  of  the 
elder  Governor,  was  b,  Oct.  15,  1759;  m.  Dea.  Samuel 
Morison,   and   d.   in  Windham,   Sept.  18,  1887.     Their 
son,  Jeremiah  Morrison  %  b.  April  20,  1795,  d.  Nov.  24, 
1862;  m.  Eleanor  Reed  Kimball,  and  were  the  parents  of 
Hon.  Leonard  Allison  Morrison^  eighth  generation  from 
J^aird  Dinsmoori,  of   Scotland.     He  was   b.  in  Wind- 
ham,  N.   H.,    Feb.  21,  1843,  resides  there,   has  been  a 
member  of   the  House  and  Senate  of   the  New  Hamp- 
shire Legislature,  and  is  the  author  of  this  book.     Two 
great-grandsons   of  Robert   Dinsmoor*,   (John^,  John^, 
Zaird  Dinamoov'^),  by  his  son  John^,  JohnS  were  James 
Dinsmoor^,  of  Boone  County,  Ky.,  a  man  of  ability,  and 
his  brother,   John    Bell   Dinsmoor^,   of    Ripley,  N.  Y. 
Rev.  Cadford  M.  Dinsmoors,  of  Exeter,  N.  H.,  son  of 
.John    Taylor    Gilman    Dinsmooi^     (Jamcse,    Robert^, 
Robert*,  Johns,    John2,   Zatrd  Dinsmoori),  a   Metho- 
dist clero:yman,  was  b.  in   Windham,  N.  IL,  Aug.  20, 
1826;  graduated  at  Wesleyan  University  in  1851.     Hon. 
James  Dinsmoor^  of  Sterling,  111.  (\VilliamG,  William^, 
Robert*,  John 3.  John 2,  Zaird  Dinsmoor'^,  of  Scotland.) 
He  was  b.  in  Windham,  N.  H  ,  March  3,  1818 ;  graduated 
at  Dartmouth  College  in  1841  ;  is  a  lawyer  of  high  stand- 
ing, resided  in  Lowell.  Mass.,  and  was  a  member  of  the 
Massachusetts  House  of  Representatives.     Removed  to 
Sterling,  111.,  in  1856,  and  for  fonr  years  was  a  nieniber 
of  the  Illinois  Legislature.     He  is  the  author  of  the  His- 
tory of  the  Dinsmoor  Family,  75  pp.,  embodied  in  the 
•'  History  of  Windham  in  New  Hampshire."     It  is  one  of 
the  most  valuable  family  histories  extant,  and  is  a  monu- 
ment to  the  great  industry  and  love  of  kindred  possessed 
by  its  honored  author.     He  m.  Amanda  A.  Carpenter,  of 
Sharon,   Vt.,  who  d.  Aug.   14,   1886;   in  the  following 


8  WILLIAM   B.   DINSMOBE. 

year,  June  1,  1887,  he  m.,  2d,  her  sister,  Mrs.  Mary  M. 
(Carpenter)  True.  His  son,  Jarvis  Dinsmoor^,  is  a  law- 
yer in  Sterling,  111.,  and  two  daughters  who  graduated  nt 
Vassar  College  —  Alice  Dinsmoor*,  a  teacher;  Florence- 
Amanda  Dinsmoor^,  m.  James  F.  Covey,  res.  Sterling, 
111.  Hon.  Albert  E.  Pillsbury^,  a  brilliant  lawyer,  and 
attorney-general  of  the  State  of  Massachusetts,  is  of 
Dinsmoor  blood,  as  his  mother,  Elizabeth  Dinsmoor^,  is 
a  sister  of  Hon.  James  Dinsmoor^,  lawyer  and  author. 
She  m.  Josiah  Webster  Pillsbury,  and  resides  in  Milford, 
N.  H.  The  list  of  prominent  descendants  of  the  New 
Hampshire  emigrant  would  not  be  complete  without 
mention  being  made  of  William  B.  Dinsmore^,  Esq., 
late  president  of  the  Adams  Express  Company,  the  larg- 
est express  company  in  the  word.  (He  was  son  of  Will- 
iam^,  Johu^,  Robert*,  John^,  John^,  Laird  Dinsmoor^ 
of  distant  Achenmead,  Scotland.)  He  was  b.  in  Bos- 
ton, Mass.,  July,  1810,  and  d.  April  13,  1888;  he  m. 
Augusta  M.  Snow,  of  Brewster,  Mass.  He  possessed 
marvellous  powers  for  business,  a  massive  mind  and  phy- 
sique, and  an  inexhaustible  fund  of  wit  and  humor. 
He  resided  at  Staatsburg,  jST.  Y.,  and  is  succeeded  by  his 
sons,  William  B.  Dinsmore^,  b.  1845,  and  Clarence  G. 
DinsmoreS  b.  1848. 

This  closes  a  brief  notice  of  some  of  the  prominent 
descendants  of  Robert  Dinsmoor*,  son  of  John  Dins- 
moor',  the  captive  of  the  Indians,  who  was  the  eldest 
son  of  John  Dinsmoor 2,  the  Scotch  lad  who,  with  cane 
and  broad  bonnet,  emigrated  from  the  Tweed  to  Bally- 
wattick,  Ireland,  who  was  son  of  Laird  Dinsmoor  ^  of 
Scotland. 

David  Dinsmoor*  (name  of  father  not  known,  but  a 
grandson  of  John  Dinsmoor 2,  Laird  Dinsmoor^),  a 
nephew  of  John  Dinsmoor',  who  settled  in  Londonderry, 
N.  H.,  was  b.  in  Ireland  in  1714,  emigrated  to  America 
about  1745,  was  in  Londonderry,  N.  IL,  in  1747,  m.  Mrs. 
Kennedy,  settled  in  Chester,  N.  II.  His  descendants 
live  in  Chester,  Auburn,  N.  H.,  and  Anson,  Me.  Among 
them  is  Rev.  John  Dinsmore.  Some  years  ago  Curran 
Dinsmore,  Lemuel  Dinsmore,  and  James  P.  Dinsmore, 
brothers,  were  living  in  New  York  and  were  his  descen- 
dants. 


niNSMOORS  OF  BALLY WATTICK.  9 

DINSMOORS    OF    BALLYWATTICK,    BALLY- 
MONEY,  COUNTY  ANTRIM,  IRELAND. 

13.  Robert  Dinsraoor^  (5),  John  2,  Laird  Dins- 
raoor^.  He  was  b.  in  Bally wattick,  Ballymoney,  County 
Antrim,  Ireland,  presumably  as  early  as  1673,  and  was  a 
brother  of  John  Dinsmoor^,  the  first  emigrant  of  the  name 
to  New  Hampshire.  He  resided  in  Ballywattick,  and 
was  an  intelligent,  upright,  and  leading  citizen.  From  a 
letter  which  I  received  Feb.  3,  1891,  from  Mr.  William 
Hunter,  of  Ballywattick,  I  have  obtained  this  information. 

Rev.  R.  Park  was  pastor  of  the  Presbyterian  Church 
there  for  over  fifty  years.  On  April  6,  1692,  the  church 
made  application  to  the  General  Synod  of  Ulster  for  a 
minister,  and  made  a  second  application  in  1694.  Then 
Rev.  Hugh  Kirkpatrick  was  appointed.  He  had  fled  to 
Scotland  at  the  time  of  the  Revolution,  returned  in  1695, 
and  was  installed  over  the  church.  In  1699  he  was  mod- 
erator of  the  Synod,  and  continued  minister  until  his 
death,  in  1712. 

During  his  ministry,  Robert  Dinsmoor^,  the  subject  of 
this  sketch,  was  a  prominent  member  of  his  congregation, 
and  was  a  member  of  a  deputation*  to  the  Synod  at  An- 
trim, County  of  Antrim,  Ireland,  in  1715,  on  matters 
relating  to  the  church  and  congregation. 

Details  of  his  life  are  not  known,  nor  the  names  of  his 
wife  and  children.  From  his  Christian  name,  from  the 
fact  of  his  residence  in  Ballywattick,  his  intelligence  and 
education,  his  age,  and  the  relation  which  his  age  bears 
to  the  subject  of  the  following  notice,  it  seems  fair  to 
infer  that  he  was  the  father  of  the  one  whose  sketch  is 
here  given  (but  there  is  no  absolute  proof),  and  so  in 
that  manner  1  have  arranged  them. 

13.  Robert  Dinsmore*,  Robert^  (?),  John 2,  Laird 
Dinsmoor^.  He  was  a  grandson  of  John  Dinsmoor",  the 
Scotch  emigrant  to  Ballywattick,  Ireland,  and  was  b.  in 
1720;  lived  in  Ballywattick,  Ballymoney,  County  of 
Antrim,  Ireland,  the  place  of  his  birth,  and  was  a  farmer. 


*  The  members  of  the  delegation  were  as  follows:  Cornet  Alexander 
McGown,  Mr.  James  Henry,  Allen  Templeton,  Robert  Dinsraore,  John 
Love,  Peter  Gamble,  Thomas  Keid,  Quinton  Dick,  John  Lawrence. 


10       EGBERT  DINSMORE'^,    OF  IRELAND. 

A  brother  lived  near  him,  and  each  had  a  large  family. 
He  was  a  leading  man  in  the  parish,  was  held  in  the  high- 
est respect,  and  was  a  Presbyterian  in  his  religious  faith. 
His  intelligence  was  of  a  high  order,  and  to  him  are  we 
indebted  for  the  preservation  of  the  genealogy  and  early 
history  of  the  family.  He  was  a  man  who  enjoyed  writ- 
ing, and  daring  his  life  he  kept  up  a  correspondence  with 
a  Laird  Dinsmoor,  at  the  old  home  in  Scotland,  and  with 
his  relatives  in  Xew  Hampshire,  U.  S.  Among  those 
with  whom  he  exchanged  letters  were  John  Dinsmoor^, 
of  Windham,  N.  H.,  and  with  his  sons  —  John  Dinsmoor*^, 
whose  wife  was  Susannah  Bell,  and  Col.  Silas  Dinsmoor^, 
the  celebrated  Indian  agent.  Only  one  has  been  pre- 
served, which  was  addressed  to  John  Dinsmoor*',  of  Wind- 
ham, N.  H.  (a  part  of  the  original  Londonderry,  N.  H.), 
and  printed  with  the  book  of  poems  of  the  "  Rustic 
Bard,"  Kobert  Dinsmoor,  and  dated  :  — 

"  Balltwattick,  Ireland,  Aug.  12,  1794. 

"My  Dear  Sir,  —  In  July  last,  I  received  your  affec- 
tionate letter  of  22d  Feb.,  1794,  where  you  have  given 
me  a  full  and  clear  answer  to  my  letter  of  May  12,  1793, 
which  was  directed  to  your  honoured  father,  —  but,  alas! 
no  more.     May  I  not  bid  adieu  to  North  America. 

"Submission  is  a  duty,  therefore  I  shall  only  add  —  I 
shall  go  to  him,  but  he  shall  not  return  to  me.  It  gives 
me  consolation  that  he  has  left  a  son  and  heir,  blessed 
with  his  principles  and  talents.  I  see  that  you  feel  for 
the  commotions  of  Europe,  and  for  the  arbitrary  proceed- 
ings of  our  government  in  particular.  You  give  them 
hard  names.  Indeed,  so  could  we,  but  dare  not;  we  are 
brought  to  submission  indeed.  While  our  lives  are  pro- 
tected by  the  laws,  we  must  submit  our  property  to  the 
discretion  of  government  without  a  murmur  or  complaint. 
Provided  our  taxes,  which  are  heavy,  were  disponed  of 
for  internal  defence  of  our  country  and  encouragement  of 
our  trade  and  manufactures,  we  v/ould  pay  more  cheer- 
fully. But  when  we  pee  it  levied  to  support  a  ruinous 
war,  that  we  think  Great  Britain  had  nothing  to  do  with, 
we  complain  the  more.  At  this  moment  the  eyes  of  all 
Ireland  are  looking  earnestly  for  the  completion  of  your 


[THE  HISTOlilAN  OF  THE  BINSMOBES.     11 

peace  with  Great  Britain,  on  Avhich  the  trade  of  Ireland 
much  depends.  We  know  you  have  sent  a  late  com- 
missioner from  Congress  to  the  Court  of  Great  Britain,  a 
Mr.  Jay;  but  as  nothing  has  yet  transpired  in  respect  to 
Ireland,  I  mi  st  be  silent.  I  had  a  long  letter  from  your 
brother  Silas,*  in  May  last,  which  I  answered.  It  raises 
ray  pride  to  lind  that  there  is  a  Dinemoor  in  any  part  of 
the  globe  so  capable  of  composition  as  I  see  the  writer  of 
this  letter  to  be.  The  more  so  when  I  can  truly  call  him 
friend  and  cousin. 

"  As  to  your  request  concerning  the  genealogy  of  our 
family,  you  have  been  pretty  fortunate  indeed  in  calling 
on  me,  as  I  assure  you  there  is  not  a  man  living  within 
my  knowledge  that  can  go  as  far  up  in  that  description 
as  I  can.  Nevertheless  it  may  be  short  of  what  history 
could  afford.     Please  take  the  following:  — 

"My  grandfather  was  born  on  the  mean  land  of  Scot- 
land, near  the  River  Tweed  —  the  son  of  a  wealthy  farmer, 
as  1  supposed  from  his  style,  being  called  the  Laird  of 
Achcnraead,  as  he  had  tenants  under  him.  He  had  two 
sons,  of  which  my  grandfather  was  the  second,  whose 
name  was  John.  He  left  his  father's  house  in  the  seven- 
teenth year  of  his  age.  I  suppose  he  must  have  eloped, 
as  he  brought  no  property  with  him,  as  I  have  often  heard, 
save  a  gray  bonnet  of  great  extent,  with  striped  woollen 
hose,  and  a  small  cane  in  his  hand.  This  is  your  original 
in  Ireland,  and  mine;  and  all  by  the  name  of  Dinsmore, 
here  or  elsewhere,  that  belong  to  that  stock.  Therefore, 
you  will  be  ready  to  say,  wo  have  little  to  boast  of.  But 
stay  a  little,  my  dear  friend,  and  let  us  go  a  little  higher, 
and  return  to  Scotland.  You  see,  as  above,  we  are 
sprung  from  a  farmer.  Will  this  give  us  any  dignity? 
Yes;  the  most  ancient,  the  most  honorable  in  civil  life. 
The  second  man  in  creation  was  a  farmer.  Cain  was  a 
tiller  of  the  ground.  What  are  Monarchs?  What  are 
Kings,  Dukes,  Lords,  Earls?  What  was  Alexander,  or 
Philip  of  Macedonia,  but  murdering  vagabonds? 

"  The  character  of  a  farmer  is  far  above  them  all.  Stop 
but  the  farmer  and  his  culture,  and  you  sweep  off  the 


''Col.  Silas  Dinsmoor,  the  Indian  agent,  and  a  brilliant  man. 


12  HIS  HISTOBIC  LETTER  OF  17H. 

human  race  at  one  stroke.  So  you  see  that  the  farmer's 
station  is  exalted  above  all  others.  Therefore,  our  pedi- 
gree is  higher  than  any  other  whatever. 

"  I  must  crave  your  patience.  Suffer  me,  then,  to  re- 
turn to  my  grandfather  and  his  offspring,  of  which  you  are 
a  sprout.  This  man  had  four  sons,  John,  Adam,  Robert, 
and  Samuel.  John  was  the  first  that  migrated  to  Amer- 
ica of  the  name,  and  the  first  that  struck  a  stick  in  Lon- 
donderry. This  man  was  your  grandfather's  father  and 
my  uncle,  who  surmounted  many  difficulties  in  providing 
a,  large  and  free  estate  for  his  offspring,  and  in  the  attempt 
was  made  an  Indian  captive.  Permit  me  to  observe  a 
circumstance  with  respect  to  my  grandfather's  leaving 
his  father's  house  without  any  property,  which  may  eluci- 
date the  hint  before  observed,  respecting  it,  which  is  this: 
I  never  heard  this  man  give  any  other  reason  or  cause 
for  his  leaving  his  father's  house,  but  this :  That  his 
father  obliged  him,  and  that  uncovered,  to  hold  the  off 
stirrup  of  his  elder  brother's  saddle  when  he  mounted 
his  horse.  A  subordination  th^t  appeared  not  to  agree 
with  this  man's  proud  heart. 

"  May  it  not  be  an  heir-ship  entailed  on  his  offspring? 
And  if  so,  whether  virtue  or  vice,  I  leave  with  you  to 
determine,  although  I  am  no  advocate  for  virtue  or  vice 
being  hereditary.  To  conclude,  then,  this  man  lived 
until  he  was  99  (ninety-nine)  years  of  age.  He  was  fifty 
yeai's  married,  and  twenty-nine  years  a  widower,  which 
«nded  his  life,  much  respected  by  all  who  were  acquainted 
with  him,  for  his  piety,  morals,  and  good  sense.  Now, 
sir,  I  have  gone  as  far  as  my  memory  could  assist  me  in 
answering  your  request.  But  there  is  yet  something 
remains  which  may  gratify  your  inquisitive  mind,  in  the 
line  of  heraldry.  The  Dinsmoor  coat-of-arms  is  a  farm 
laid  down  on  a  plate,  of  a  green  color,  with  three  wheat 
sheaves  set  upright  in  the  centre,  of  a  yellow  color,  all 
emblematical  of  husbandry  and  agriculture. 

"ROBERT  DINSMORE." 

The  grandfather  of  the  person  to  whom  the  letter  was 
addressed,  Robert  Dinsmoor*,  of  Windham,  N.  H.,  was 
an  own  cousin  of  Robert  Dinsmore*,  the  writer. 


THE   DINSMOBE   COAT-OF-ARMS.  13 

Another  description  is :  "  The  picture  of  a  man  with 
his  dog  and  gun,  with  a  sheaf  of  wheat  and  one  of  oats, 
which  crossed  each  other."*  These  are  given  for  what 
they  are  worth.  They  may  amuse,  but  probably  have  no 
historical  value. 

Mr.  Dinsmore  lived  with  his  son,  Samuel^,  the  last  of 
his  life,  and  died  in  Ballywattick,  and  is  buried  by  the 
side  of  his  friends  and  kindred  in  the  cemetery  in  Bally- 
money,  where  there  is  a  stone  erected  to  his  memory. 
He  was  twice  married.  The  first  family  went  abroad, 
and  one  son  went  with  Capt.  Cook  around  the  world. 
Nothing  more  is  known  of  the  first  family  of  children  or 
their  history. 

CHILDREN,  BORN  IN  BALLYWATTICK,   IRELAND, 

Second  Family. 

14.  "William  Dinsmore^,  b.  1755,  d.  1818,  lived  a  long  while  In  Philadelphia, 

Penn.  Keturned  to  Ballymoney,  Ireland;  m.  Jane  Blair,  and  d. 
there.  No  children.  William  Dinsmore  owned  a  house  and  out- 
buildings on  Main  Street,  Ballymoney.  In  his  barn  Adam  Clark, 
the  commentator,  used  frequently  to  hold  religious  services,  at- 
tended by  many  of  the  people.  Mr.  Dinsmore  was  a  leading  man 
in  the  town,  and  was  greatly  respected.  As  he  had  no  children, 
the  property  which  he  possessed,  which  was  considerable,  went  to 
his  relatives.  The  following  is  upon  his  tombstone  in  Ballymoney  : 
"  Consigned  to  the  tomb,  in  the  63d  year  of  his  age.  Here  lies  the 
remains  of  William  Dinsmore,  late  of  Ballywattick,  a  man  distin- 
guished by  purity  of  morals  and  integrity  of  heart.  Impressed 
with  a  due  sense  of  religion,  his  practice  was  regulated  by  its  dic- 
tates; firmly  believing  the  truths  of  the  Gospel  his  whole  life 
evinced  the  genuine  fruit  of  Christianity,  1818." 

15.  Samuel  Dinsmore"  (19),  b.  17G1,  lived  in  Ballywattick,  Ballymoney, 

Ireland,  and  d.  Nov.  12,  1829.  The  father  of  John  Dinsmore^,  of 
Bloomington,  Ind. 

16.  Mollv  Dinsmore',  m.  Thomas  Mcllhose,  res.  Derrock,  County  Antrim. 

17.  Margaret  Dinsmore",  m.  Andrew  Dinsmore  (No.  41),  of  Ballywattick, 

Ireland.    He  was  her  own-cousin. 

18.  Martha  Dinsmore*,  m.  Alexander  Culberson,  and  lived  in  lower  Bal- 

lywattick, Ireland. 

19.-  Samuel  Dinsmore^  (15),  Robert*,  Robert^  (?), 
John 2,  Z^aird^.  He  was  b.  in  Ballywattick,  Ballymoney, 
County  Antrim,  Ireland,  in  1761 ;  m.  in  1783,  Mary,  daugh- 
ter of  Andrew  Brewster,  of  Glenhall,  County  of  London- 
derry, Ireland.  He  was  a  large,  tall,  strong-limbed  farmer, 
and  lived  on  a  portion  of  the  Dinsmore  homestead  in 
Ballywattick,  where  he  d.  Nov.  13,  1829,  and  is  buried  in 
Ballymoney  Cemetery.      Upon  his  tombstone  in  Bally- 

*  From  letter  of  John  Dinsmore*  (grandson  of  foregoing  Robert*),  of 
Bloomington,  Indiana,  dated  Sept.  9, 1887. 


14  IN^  THEIR  LAST  SLEEP. 

money  is  tins  inscription  :  "Here  lies  the  body  of  the  late 
Samuel  Dinsmore,  of  Ballywattick,  who  departed  this 
life  the  13th  Nov.  1829,  agod  68  years ;  also,  his  son, 
Robert,  who  departed  this  life  the  18th  of  April,  1818, 
aged  18  years."  He  and  family  were  Presbyterians. 
Ilis  widow  died  in  Bloomington,  Ind,  in  1847.  He 
lived  in  a  comfoi'table  stone  house;  at  the  end  of  it  is 
a  field  surromided  by  trees,  w^iich  make  the  place  at- 
tractive and  home-like. 

CHILDllESr,  BOEN  IN  BALLYWATTICK,  BALLYMO^'EY,  COUNTY    ANTKIM, 
IRELAND. 

20.  William  Dinsmore",  b.  about  1785,  lived  in  Ballywattick,  then  came 

to  America,  and  d.  at  Piqua,  Miami  Co.,  Ohio. 

21.  Andrew  Dinsmore",  b.  about  1877,  res.  at  Charlottesville,  Va.,  where 

he  died  suddenly ;  single. 

22.  Margaret  Dinsmore",  b.  about  1789;  m.  Archibald  Mcllreavy,  and 

lived  in  Ballywattick,  on  a  farm  occupied  in  1801  by  Mr.  Knox; 
then  removed  to  Tort  Stewart,  County  of  Londonderry,  Ireland, 
where  they  died.  Two  daughters  are  still  living:  Matilda  Mcll- 
reavy, single,  res.  Port  Stewart,  Ireland;  Rachel  Mcllreavy,  ni. 
Mr.  Iteid,  and  has  a  large  family,  res.  Cronmore,  County  Derry, 
Ireland.    Daniel  Mcllreavy  went  to  Australia,  and  is  deceased. 

23.  liettie  Dinsmore".  b.  about  1791,  m.  Charles  Riddle,  and  d.  at  Pitts- 

burg, Penn.  The  familv  was  there  in  1890.  See  History  of  Rid- 
dell.  Riddle,  Ridlon,  Ridley,  Family,  p.  196,  by  G.  T.  Ridlon. 

24.  Samuel  Dinsmore",  b.  about  1792,  was  killed  at  Baltimore,  Md.,  in  1816, 

by  being  blown  up  in  a  powder  mill. 
2;").    James  Dinsmore".  b.  about  1795,  d.  in  Hamilton,  Oliio. 

26.  Robert  Dinsmore",  b.  about  1797,  d.  in  Ballywattick,  Ireland,  in  1800. 

27.  Mary  Dinsmore",  b.  about  I79it,  m.  Samuel  Johnson, a  merchant;  they 

lived  and  died  at  Bush  Mills.  Antrim,  IreL.nd. 

28.  Jennie  Dinsmore",  b.  about  1803,  m.  Robert  Small,  and  d.  in  Pitts- 

burg. Penn.  Her  first  husband  was  Mr.  McAllister.  Their 
daughter  m.  Mr.  Pinkerton.*  and  they  live  in  Philadelphia. 

29.  Rachel  Dinsmore",  b.  about  1806,  m.  James  McAffee;   she  died  in 

Wooster,  Ohio.    His  early  home  was  near  Giant's  Causeway. 

30.  Matilda  Dinsmore",  b.  about  1S03,  m.  Campbell  McCuidy;  she  d.  iu 

Baltimore,  Md. 

31.  John  Dinsmore"  (32),  b.  in  1810.  res.  1831,  in  Bloomington,  Ind.    See 

following  sketch  of  hira  and  his  family. 

33.  John  Dinsmore 6  (31),  Samuels,  Robert*,  Rob- 
ert^  ?,  John2,  Laird  Dinsmoor^.  He  was  b.  in  Bally- 
wattick, Ballymouey,  County  Antrim,  Ireland,  in  1810, 
and  succeeded  bis  father,  on  the  home  of  his  forefathers, 
iu  the  parish  of  his  birth.  There  he  remained  sever.al 
years  after  the  death  of  his  father  and  in  1838,  he,  the 
last  of  the  name  there,  left  his  native  land,  the  old  home 
of  bis  people  for  several  generations,  and  with  his  family 


*Many  Piukertons  are  natives  of  Ballywattick,  Secon,  and  vicinity. 
Note.— The  parish  of  Maquoskin,  sometimes  called  J/acasfcy,  is  n( 
Coleraine,  Ireland. 


THE  OLD  DINSMOEE  HOME  FORSAKEN.    15 

and  venerable  mother  removed  to  Bloomington,  Ind , 
where  he  has  ever  since  lived,  and  whei-e  he  resides  in 
April,  1891.  Thus  the  ancestral  home  of  the  Dins- 
mores  on  Irish  soil  passed  into  the  hands  of  others.  It 
is  occu])ied  in  1891  by  Archibald  Usher.  He  and  his 
family,  his  fiither  and  his  family,  are,  and  were,  members 
of  the  Tresbyterian  Church.  In  a  letter  dated  Oct.  1, 
1890,  he  says  :  "I  hope  and  trust,  through  the  interces- 
sion of  the  Lord  and  Saviour  Jesus  Christ,  that  our 
names  will  be  enrolled  in  the  Book  of  Life."  He  ra.  in 
1832,  iMargaret  Small,  who  died  in  1882,  at  Bloomington. 
Ind.  ' 

CHii.DRi:?;:    the  three  eldest  born  at  balltwattick,  iueland  ; 

THE  others  at  BLOOMINGTON,  IND. 

33.  Samuel  Dinsraore',  b.  Feb.  8, 1834,  m.  Magdelene  T.  Hudscnpell,  res. 

Burden,  Kan.  Children:  John  Diusmore^,  Julia  Dinsmore',  Mary 
Dinsmore'. 

34.  Joseph  S.  Diusnicre',  b.  Jan.  1,  1836,  m.  Mary  A.  Henderson,  res. 

rMOomington,  Ind.  Children:  Wadsey  Dinsmore*,  William  Dins- 
more^,  Paul  Dinsmore^.  The  two  elder  are  in  college  at  Bloom- 
ington. Ind. 

.35.  Mary  Diusmore',  b.  January,  1838;  d.  Oct.  20, 1853,  at  Bloomington, 
lad. 

3G.  William  J.  Dinsmore^,  b.  March  4, 1840,  m.  Mary  Gates,  res.  Earlville, 
111.    Children:  Theophilus  Diusmore',  Annie  Dinsmore". 

37.    Andrew  Dinsniore^,  b.  I  ebruary,  184-',  d.  Mav,  1843. 

33.    Jane  Dinsmore',  b.  April  2,  1844,  d.  March,  18C3. 

3t».  Theophilus  W.  Diasmore',  b.  Sept.  27,  184G,  m.  Sarah  Bunger.  lie 
d.  April  14, 1871. 

40.  Matilda  H.  Dinsmore^  b.  Jan.  4, 1850,  m.  Benjamin  Kirby,  res.  Bloom- 
ington, Ind.    They  have  one  son  and  four  daughters. 

41.     Andrew  Dinsmoros, 4^  Robert3(?),  John 2, 

Laird  Dinsmoor^.  He  lived  in  Bally wattick,  in  a  stone 
house,  now,  1891,  unoccupied,  and  ov/ned  by  Archibald 
Usher.  He  was  a  shrewd,  sensible  man,  quite  intelligent, 
and  a  man  of  influence  in  his  neighborhood.  He  was  a 
member,  as  were  all  the  Dinsmores,  of  the  Presbyterian 
Church  of  Ballymoney,  which  has  been  in  existence  since 
1700,  He  died  in  the  place  of  his  nativity,  and  is  buried 
w^ith  others  of  his  kindred  and  name  in  the  cemetery  in 

the  village  of  Ballymoney.     He  m,  1st, , 

who  had  seven  sons  and  one  daughter.  She  died,  and  he 
ni.  2d,  his  own-cousin,  Margaret,  daughter  of  Robert 
Dinsmore*,  the  letter  writer.  On  his  tombstone  in  Bally- 
money is:  "Here  rests  the  remains  of  Andrew  Dins- 
more,  of  Ballywattick,  who  departed  this  life  13th  July, 


16      ANDBEW  DINSMOBEf;    OF  IRELAND. 

1811,  aged  73  years;  and  also  bis  wife,  Margaret,  who 
died  4th  April,  1813,  aged  62  years.  Much  of  the  virtues 
which  ornament  the  Christian  character  were  possessed 
by  this  Pair."  They  bad  seven  daughters  and  one  son. 
The  record  of  all  his  children,  as  given  traditionally,  is  as 
follows,  though  some  are  missing. 

CHILDREN,  BORN  IN  BALLYWATTICK,  BALLYMONET,  COUNTY  ANTRIM, 
IRELAND. 

42.  John  Dinsmore«,  emigrated  early  to  America,  before  1817,  and  was 

government  surveyor  in  one  of  the  Southern  States,  where  ho 
resided.    He  was  m.,  but  is  said  to  have  left  no  children. 

43.  Eobert  Dinsmore®,  lived  in  Ballywattick,  m. ,  lived  after 

the  loss  of  his  property  with  his  brother-in-law,  Joseph  Small;  d. 
about  1830,  and  is  buried  in  Ballymoney.  He  had  several  children, 
among  them  Robert  Dinsmore',  who  settled  in  Tennessee;  John 
Dinsmore',  William  Dinsmore',  Elizabeth  Dinsmore',  Margaret 
Dinsmore',  and  Nancy  Dinsmore'.  They  all  came  to  America 
after  their  father's  death. 

44.  James  Samuel  Dinsmore",  b.  1771,  d.  in  1846,  m.  Jennie  Herbert,  and 

lived  near  Havre  de  Grace,  Md.,  where  his  descendants  are  said 
to  be  still  living. 

45.  William  Dinsmore".  called  "  Gentle  Willie."    He  m.  Martha  Hem  y. 

He  owned  the  farm  and  erected  the  stone  house  owned  by  William 
Knox  in  Ballywattick  in  1891.  He,  "  Gentle  Willie,"  met  with 
flnancial  trouble,  emigrated  to  Maryland,  and  died  with  Jiis 
brother  James.  He  had  no  children.  His  wife  was  from  upper 
Secon,  close  to  Ballywattick. 

46.  Andrew  Dinsmore",  emigrated  to  America,  before  1817.    Two  other 

sons  are  said  to  have  settled,  one  at  Charlottesville,  Va.,  and  one 
farther  South. 

By  Second  Afarrlage  with  Margaret  Dinsmort*. 

47.  Rachel  Dinsmore"  (52  ,  b.  in  1810,  m.  John  Hunter,  res.  York,  Penn. 

48.  Jane  Dinsmore",  m.  Joseph  Small,  lived  in   Ballywattick,  and  in 

Knowend,  County  Antrim,  Ireland.  Farmer.  Children  :  All  these 
said  to  have  settled  in  Bloomington,  Ind. 

John  Small'. 

Joseph  Small'. 

Andrew  Small'. 

James  Small'. 

Rachel  Small',  moved  to  Bloomington,  Ind. 

Small,  m. Tomb,  fo  Dunkendalt,  Ballymoney ,'Antrim, 

Ireland.    Had  a  family,  and  removed  to  New  England. 

Small,  m.  Francis  McKinley.  of  Strome,  County  Antrim,  near 


Derrock,  and  removed  to  Bloomington,  Ind 

Small,  m.  Mr.  Smith,  moved  to  Canada. 

Margaret  Small',  m.  her  cousin,  Jolin  Dinsmore, removed  to  Bloom- 
ington, Ind.,  in  1838.    See  sketch  No.  32. 
9     Mary  Dinsmore",  m.  Samuel  Boyd,  of  Culbrom.  County  Antrim,  where 
they  died.    Child  :   Robert  Boyd,  went  to  United  States.    Was  in 
United  States  Survey  ;  relumed  to  Coimty  Down,  and  lived  there. 
No  family. 
60     Susan  (or  Hannah)  Dinsmore",  m,  James  Neill.  of  Dunkend.alt,  Bal- 
lymoney, County  Antrim.     He  died,  and  his  family  removed  to 
Philadelphia.  Penn.    Children  :  James  Neill',  Ann  Neill',  Racb.el 
Neil^,^Iargaret  Neill'. 

51.    Dinsmore.  m.  James  Hay,  of  Burnslde,  Ballymoney,  County 

Antrim.    Children  are  deceased. 


BACHEL  DINSMOREe,   OF  YORK,  FENN.    17 

52.  Rachel  Dinsmoree  (47),  Margaret  (Dinsmores) 
Dinsraores,  Robert*,  Robert^  (?),  John^,  Laird  Dins- 
moor  i.  She  was  b.  in  Bally wattick,  Town  of  Ballyraoney, 
County  Antrim.  Ireland,  in  1810;  ra.  John  Hunter,  son 
of  John  Hunter,  of  Secon.  He  was  b.  there  1784;  was  a 
weaver  of  fine  linen,  lived  in  Bnllywattick,  and  built  the 
house  occupied  in  1891  by  William  Hunter,  his  nephew. 
Went  to  America  in  1817,  and  d.  in  York,  Penn.,  in 
May,  1823,  where  they  lived.  Rachel  (Dinsraore)  Hun- 
ter ra.,  second,  Joseph  McPherson,  in  18'29,  and  d.  in 
York,  Penn.,  Feb.  1,  1837.  She  and  Mr.  Hunter  were 
members  of  the  Presbyterian  Church,  and  later  she  was 
a  member  of  the  Methodist  Church. 

CHILDREN. 

53.  Kev.  William  Hunter',  I),  in  Ballywattick,  Ireland,  May  26, 1811;  m. 
Jane  McCarty ;  went  to  America  with  his  parents  in  1817,  became  a 
clergyman  in  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  and  was  an  editor. 
He  was  a  gifted  man,  and  was  a  poet  of  merit.  In  alluding  to 
another,  in  one  of  his  sweet  poems,  he  said:  — 

Away  from  his  home  and  the  friends  of  his  youth, 
He  hasted,  the  herald  of  mercy  and  truth. 
For  the  love  of  his  Lord,  and  to  seek  for  the  lost. 
Soon,  alas!  was  his  fall,  hut  he  died  at  his  post. 

He  asked  not  a  stone  to  be  sculptured  with  verse ; 
He  asked  not  that  fame  should  his  merits  rehearse ; 
But  he  asked  as  a  boon,  when  he  gave  up  the  ghost, 
That  his  brethren  might  know  that  he  died  at  his  post. 

He  was  author  of  the  hymns, 

The  Great  Physician  now  is  near, 
The  sympathizing  Jesus, 
and  of. 

Joyfully,  joyfully,  onward  we  move. 
Bound  for  the  land  of  bright  spirits  above. 

He  d.  in  Cleveland,  Ohio,  Oct.  11, 1877.    His  second  wife  was  Ur- 
sula McCarty,  and  he  had  children. 

CHILDREN   OF  REV.   WILLIAM  HUNTER". 

1.  Eachel  Dinsniore  Hunter",  d.  in  infancy. 

2.  Wesleyana  Hunter*,  b. ;  m.  Stephen  Quinon,  and  d.  in  Pitts- 

burg, Penn.,  Oct.  8,1889.     Children:    Mary  Alice  Quinon",  b. 
Sept.  4, 1875;  Flora  Hunter  Quinon",  b. ;  d.  Nov.  30, 1889. 

3.  Daniel  McCarty  Hunter*,  b.  June  2,  1840;  m.  ,  and  res.  Al- 

liance, Oliio.    No  children. 

4.  Elliott  Virginia  Hunter*,  b. ;  m.  Dr.  Volk;  res.  Riverside,  Cal. 

5.  Leonidas  Hamlin  Hunter*,  b.  June  18,  1844;  m.  Kate  .    Chil- 

dren:   Flora  Holmes  Hunter",  b.  May  26,  1874;  Bertha  May 
Hunter",  b. . 

6.  Flora  Ursula  Hunter",  b. ;  m.  Prof.  Horace  Bancroft,  who  d. 

She  m.,  second,  Stephen  Quinon,  recently,  who  is  on  the  edito- 
rial stafE  of  the  Pittsburg  Times.      Children:    Grove  Hunter 


18      BEV.  WILLIAM  HUNTER\  THE  POET. 


Bancroft',  b.  Oct.  29,  1867.  d.  Dec.  14,  1867;  Leon  Dlnsmore 
Bancroft',  h.  Oct.  17,  1868.  is  night  editor  of  Pittsburg  Dis- 

Eatch,  Fenn. ;  Edna  Bella  Bancroft' and  Jennie  Klla  Bancroft', 
.  Sept.  4, 1870,  Jennie  d.  Jan.  4.  1873;  Ida  Bancroft',  b.  April 
4, 1872,  d.  Jan.  12,  1873;  William  Earl  Bancroft',  b.  May  2, 1873, 
res..  Pittsburg,  Peun. ;  Mabel  Elizabeth  Bancroft',  b.  Oct.  1, 
1875,  d.  July  12,  1876. 

7.  John  Andrew  Hunter*,  b.  Dec.  1. 1847;  m.  Hattie .   Clergyman, 

member  of  East  Ohio  Methodist  Episcopal  Conference;  re- 
signed, and  is  now  a  student  of  medicine  at  Columbus,  Ohio. 
Children:  Andrew  Dinsmore  Hunter',  b.  Jan.  27. 1873;  William 
Carey  Hunter',  b.  Aus?.  21, 1874;  Frank  Dalles  Hunter',  b.  Feb. 
27,  1X76,  d.  April  2, 1877;  John  Hunter',  b.  Oct.  6,  1877;  Adda 
Lena  Hunter',  b.  Jan.  l,  1880;  Hattie  Lillie  Hunter',  b.  July  4, 
1881,  d.  Aug.  23,  1882;  Eva  .Mabel  Hunter',  b.  Sept.  23,  1883; 
Florence  Lois  Hunter',  b.  Feb.  12. 1885;  Gilbert  Haven  Hunter*, 
b.  April  4,  1887;  Mary  Vaughan  Hunter',  b.  Nov.  li,  1888. 

8.  Nathan  GofE  Hunler'.  b. ;  d.  in  infancy. 

9.  Jane  Amelia  Hunter',  b.  ;   m.  Mr.  Fording,  a  lawyer;  res. 

near  Kiverside.  Cal. 

54.  Ee?.  Andrew  Hunter',  b.  Ballywattick,  Ireland,  Dec.  26, 1813;  went  to 
America  in  1817;  ra.  Maiia  Jones,  of  York.  Penn.     He  became  a 

Sowerful  clergyman  in  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  and  the 
egree  of  D.  D.  was  conferred  upon  him.  His  ministrv  lasted  over 
half  a  century.  He  was  stricken  with  partial  paralysis  at  Cotton 
Plant,  Ark.,  while  preaching,  and  is  now  partially  recovered.  His 
home  is  near  Bryant,  fourteen  miles  from  Little  Rock.,  Ark. 

CHILDREN. 

1.  William  Patterson  Hunter',  res.  near  Bryant,  Saline  Co.,  Ark. ;  he 

was  b.  Sept.  21 ,  1849. 

2.  Florence  Bertrand  Hunter*,  b.  Aug.  31, 1855;  res.  Little  Rock,  Ark. 

3.  Andrew  Jones  Hunter',  b.  April  8, 1858 ;  res.  Little  Kock,  Ark. 

56.  John  Hunter',  b.  York,  Penn.,  Oct.  15.  1817;  m.  Harriet  McCarty.  He 
was  a  manufacturer.  He  was  a  strong,  self-reliant  man  of  busi- 
ness, was  held  in  the  highest  esteem,  and  was  an  active  member 
of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church;  d.  1887;  res.  Alliance,  Ohio. 

CHILDREN. 

1.    Andrew  Dinsmore  Hunter' ;  deceased. 

a.    Elizabeth  Hunter';  m.  Erban  Weikart,  of  Alliance,  Ohio. 

56.  Margaret  Hunter',  was  b.  in  York.  Penn..  Oct.  31,  1820;  m.  Aug.  23, 
1842.  Abram  Weils,  and  res.  in  Wellsville.  Penn.  She  still  lives 
there  in  her  pleasant  home,  "  Willowdale,"  with  her  married 
daughters  living  near  her.  Slie  is  a  lady  of  rare  gifts  and  graces. 
Mr.  Wells  was  a  person  of  great  courage  and  energy,  high-souled, 
a  leader  in  society,  and  an  example  in  all  good  works,  and  was 
greatly  missed  and  mourned  at  his  death. 

CHILDREN. 

1.  Emma  Hunter  Wells',  b.  April  2,  1846:  m.  1876,  Francis  Ashbuy 

Barrett  of  Wooster,  Ohio,  and  h;is  children:  William  Hunter 
Barrett',  b.  Oct.  28,  1877;  Ruth  Barrett',  b.  Nov.  8,1879;  and 
Margaret  Barrett',  b.  Sept.  27. 1881. 

2.  Olive  Malinda  Wells\  b.  March  23,  1848;  m.  Dec.  23.  1870,  Robert 

John  Belt,  of  Wellsville,  Penn.  Children,  b.  Wellsville,  Penn.: 
Abram  Dinsmore  Belt'-'  and  Margaret  Dinsmore  Belt",  b.  Oct. 
27, 1871 ;  James  Edward  Belt"  and  Miriam  Alice  Belt»,  b.  May, 
1881. 

3.  Harriet  Maria  Wells',  b.  April  17,  1851;  m.  Aug  23, 1871,  Richard 

Young,   of   New   York,   N.    Y.    Children:     William   Hunter 


MEV.  ANDREW  HUNTERt,  B.  D.  19 


YoTing",  b.  July  24,  1873,  and  d.  Feb.  7, 1886,  at  Flatbush,  L.  I.; 
Olive  Viola  Yoimg'J,  b.  Sept.  5, 1877,  at  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. ;  Richard 
Young",  b.  Sept  17, 1886. 

4.  Mary  Dinsmore  Wells'*,  b.  Nov.  10,  1854;  m.  June  l.  1876,  Thomas 

Barkdale  Hoover,  of  Wooster,  Ohio;  reside  iti  the  old  home, 
"  Wiliowdale,"  Wellsville,  Penn.  Their  children  are:  Walter 
"Wells  Hoover",  b.  Oct.  13,  1877,  at  Wooster.  Ohio;  Thomas 
Leonard  Hoover'-',  b.  Dec.  10, 1880,  at  Wellsville,  Penn.;  Donald 
Dinsmore  Iioover"  and  Dorothy  Goeutner  Hoover",  b.  Dec.  14, 
1883;  and  Mary  Elliolta  Hoover",  b.  Aug.  21, 1885. 

5.  Margaret  Wells«,  b.  Dec.  1^3.  1856,  at  Wellsville,  Penn. 

6.  Elliolta  Wells',  b.  Feb.  14,  1861. 

7.  James  G.  Wells,  of  Wellsville,  Penn.,  is  a  son  of  Abram  Wells  by 

a  former  marriage. 

8.  Adeline  Emily  Wells,  daughter  of  Abram  Wells  by  a  former  mar- 

riage, and  was  a  most  lovely  woman.  She  m.  Kev.  D.  C.  John, 
a  Methodist  cltrgyman;  and  d.  in  Winona,  Minn.,  where  she 
Is  burled.  Children:  Anna  Miriam  John.  m.  Mr.  Armitage,  res. 
Milwaukee,  Wis. ;  James  John ;  David  Jolin ;  William  Nelson 
John. 
67.    Agnes  Hunter',  the  youngest  child  of  Rachel  Dinsmore"  and  her 

husband,  John  Hunter,  was  b.  in  York,  Peuu.,  May  15, 1822,  and  d. 

there  in  1822. 


DINSMORES    OF   PENNSYLVANIA. 

58.  Adam  Dinsmoor^  *  (6),  John^,  Laird  Dins- 
moor  i.  He  was  b.  in  Bally watlick,  Ballymoney,  County 
Antrim,  Ireland,  presumably  as  early  as  1675,  and  re- 
mained in  Ireland,  in  the  parish  of  his  birth.  He  had 
three  sons  and  perhaps  other  children.  The  sons  emi- 
grated to  America  and  settled  in  Eastern  Pennsylvania. 


CHILDREN^. 


69. 


Kobert  Dinsmore^.  At  about  the  commencement  of  the  Revolutionary 
War  he  removed  to  Western  Pennsylvania,  and  settled  on  Miller's 
Creek,  twelve  miUs  southwest  of  Pittsburg.  Later  he  removed  to 
the  unbroken  wilderness  of  Kentucky,  and  his  after  history  is 
unknown.  In  those  early  days  there  were  no  mails  to  those  un- 
known borders  of  civilization,  and  little,  if  any,  woid  was  ever 
received  by  his  frieuds  after  his  departure  from  Pennsylvania. 

60.  James  Dinsmore^  (62),  b.  Bally wattick,  Ireland,  April  26,  1742;  d.in 

Pennsylvania,  in  1817. 

61.  Andrew  Dinsmore^  (86\  b.  Bally  wattick,  Ireland,  in  1753;  went  to 

America  and  settled  in  York  Co.,  Penn;  d.  April,  1829. 

62.  James  Dinsmore*  (60),  Adam3(?),  John*,  Laird 
Dinsmoori.  jje  was  b.  April  26,  1742,  in  Ballywattick, 
Ballymoney,  County  Antrim,  Ireland.  He  emigrated,  in 
1761,  to  York  Co.,  Penn.,  and  remained  several  years. 


*  He  is  supposed  to  be  the  father  or  grandfather  of  Robert*,  James*, 
Andrew  Dinsmore*.  As  my  informant,  Kev.  Jt-hn  W.  Dinsmore,  D.  D., 
of  Bloomington,  111.,  thinks  that  Adam^,  or  Robert'',  was  X\\e\x  father,  I 
have  called  Adam^  their  father,  and  have  so  numbered  the  generation. 


20  JAMES  DINSMOBE*,  OF  PENK. 

About  1774.  he  and  his  brother,  Robert,  who  was  living 
near  him,  removed  to  Miller's  Creek,  twelve  miles  south- 
west from  Pittsburg,  where  he  lived  until  1794,  when  he 
bought  a  large  tract  called  Huntingdon  Plantation,  in  Can- 
ton Top,  Washington  Co.,  Penn.,  some  six  miles  northwest 
from  the  town  of  Washington.  It  was,  and  is,  a  mag- 
nificent tract  of  land,  covered  with  enormous  timber. 
Where  he  first  lived  was,  when  he  first  settled  there, 
a  howling  wilderness,  subject  to  frequent  incursions  of 
the  savages.  The  Dinsmoor  family  was  one  of  the 
first  to  invade  the  unbroken  solitude,  which  now  is  one 
of  the  richest  and  finest  parts  of  the  country.  He  was 
of  great  size,  weighing  above  three  hundred  pounds,  and 
a  man  of  profound  and  exalted  piety,  an  elder  in  the 
Presbyterian  Church,  and  of  great  influence  in  the  entire 
region  where  he  lived.  He  d.  on  his  estate  in  1817,  and 
is  buried  in  the  churchyard  at  Upper  Buffalo,  six  miles 
west  of  Washington,  Penn.  He  was  twice  m.;  name  of 
first  wife  is  unknown.  He  m.,  second,  at  Miller's  Run, 
Penn.,  Mary  Walker.  He  changed  the  spelling  of  his 
name  to  Dinsmore. 

THEIR  CHILDREN  WERE:     THOSE   OF  FIRST  M.  BORN  YORK  CO.,  PENN.", 
BY  SECOND  M.  AT  MILLER'S  CREEK,   PENN. 

63.  Jannette  Dinsniore\  b.  Dec.  8, 1770;  m.  Mr.  Lee ;  removed  to  Mendina, 

Ohio,  and  there  died. 

64.  Elizabeth  Dinsmore's  b.  Dec.  24, 1772;  m. . 

By  Second  Marriage. 

65.  Mary  Dinsmore'^,  b.  May  29, 1777;  m.  Mr.  Langhan,  or  Langdon. 

66.  John  Dinsmore'  (70),  b.  July  14, 1779;  m.  Jane  Carr. 

67.  James  Dinsmore"'  (7G),  b.  March  4,  1782;  m.  Esther  Hamilton. 

68.  Hannah  Dinsmore'',  b.  Jan.  26, 1784;  m.  Mr.  Saulsbury. 

69.  Sarah  Dinsmore\  b.  March  30. 1789;  m.  Thanias  Mason.    They  had 

numerous  and  influential  children,  who  were  born  at  Cross  Creek, 
Washington  Co..  Feun. 

70.  John  Dinsmore^  (66),  James*,  Adam^  (?),  John^, 
XaiVo?  Dinsmoor  1,  previously  mentioned,  ra.  Jane  Carr, 
in  the  autumn  of  1800.  Although  not  educated  in  the 
schools,  he  was  a  man  of  uncommon  intelligence,  of  great 
dignity  of  character,  of  unusual  force  and  energy,  and  of 
deep  and  fervent  piety.  For  about  fifty  years  he  was  an 
elder  in  the  church,  and  had  widely  extended  influence. 
He  had  a  large  and  valuable  estate,  which  had  been  his 
father's.     He  completed  a  country  house  in  1810,  of  stone 


BINS  MOOR  CHANGED   TO  DINSMOBE.      21 

and  brick,  where  died  his  parents,  and  himself  and  wife ; 
but  the  mansion  stands  to-day.  solid  and  impressive,  and  ' 
apparently  will  endure  while  the  world  does,  unless  it  is 
destroyed  by  lire.  Five  generations  of  the  family  in  its 
shelter  have  found  a  home.  For  eighty  years  it  has  been 
the  abode  of  respectability  and  comfort,  and  of  a  large 
and  free  hospitality.     He  d.  July  12,  1859. 

HIS  CHILDREN  WERE  BORN  ON  THE  HOMESTEAD. 

71.  William  Dinsmore"  (80).  b.  Oct.  it,  1801 ;  m.  Rebecca,  daughter  of  Capt. 

James  Anderson,  March  12,  1838. 

72.  James  Uinsmore",  b.  May  20, 1803;  m.  Margaret  Lyle,  of  Cross  Creek, 

about  1827,  and  d.  in  1873.  He  was  a  man  of  high  character, 
wealth,  and  influence. 

73.  John  Carr  Dinsmore",  b.  Dec.  31,  1804;  m.  Lucinda  Clutter,  and  d. 

about  1875. 

74.  Mary  Carr  DinsmorC'.  b.  March  7, 1807;  m.  Samuel  Cowan.    They  had 

numerous  children,  all  deceased. 

75.  Robert  \V.  Dinsmore",  b.  Aug.  1,1810;  m., first.  Nancy  Perrine;  second, 

Matilda  Clutter.  The  first  wife  of  Robert  W.  Dinsmore*^  d.  in  a  year, 
leaving  a  daughter,  now  Mrs.  Nancy  (Dinsmore')  Vance,  of  Wash- 
ington, Penu.  ?Ie  liad  eight  children  by  his  second  wife,  all  of  whom 
d.  in  childhood,  save  one,  Mrs.  Ella  (l)insmore')  Phillips,  of  2126 
Michigan  Aveuue,  Chicago,  111.  She  and  her  widowed  mother  live 
together.  Her  father,  Robert  Dinsmore",  was  accounted  a  wealthy 
man,  and  on  the  night  of  Dec.  6, 1806,  he  was  murdered  by  burglar's 
in  his  own  home  and  in  the  presence  of  his  family,  for  whicli  one 
of  the  murderers  was  hanged.    His  estate  was  near  the  old  home. 

76.  James  Dinsmore^  (67),  b.  March  4,  1782;  lived 
upon  a  portion  of  the  elegant  estate  of  his  father,  on 
Huntingdon  PIantati(m,  Canton  Top,  Washington  Co., 
Penn.  He  had  a  numerous  family.  His  wife  was  Esther 
Hamilton. 

AMONG  HIS  CHILDREN  ARE  : 

77.  Mrs.  Sarah  (Dinsmore)  Cook'\  of  Washington  Penn. 

78.  William  W.  Dinsmore'',  of  West  Middletown,  Penn. 

79.  Alexander  W.  Dinsmorei^,  of  Bentonville,  Ark.,  or  Boonesboro,  Ark. 

He  is  the  father  of  Mr.  Dinsmore',  late  U.  S.  Minister  to  Corea. 

80.  William  Dinsmoree  (71),  John^,  James*, 
Adam3  (?),  John 2,  Laird  Dinsmoori,  w^as  born  on  his 
father's  famous  estate,  Huntingdon  Plantation,  Canton 
Top.  Washington  Co.,  Penn.,  Oct.  14,  1801,  and  died 
on  the  same  spot,  March  31, 1883.  He  was  amiable  and 
gentle,  industrious  and  thrifty,  of  pure  character,  and 
greatly  beloved.  He  was  generous  and  hospitable,  and 
a  free  giver  to  religious  objects  especially.  He  m.  March 
12,  1838,  Rebecca,  daughter  of  Capt.  James  Anderson,  an 
oiBcer  of  the  Revolution.  She  d.  Sept.  9,  1886,  in  her 
seventy-ninth  year. 


22  BEV.  JOHN  W.  DINSMOBEi,  D.  D. 


CHItiDBEN,  BORN  ON  THE  OLD  HOMESTEAD. 

81.  Kev.  John  Walker  Dinsmore',  D.  D.,  b.  March  13,  1839.     His  advan 

tages  for  education  were  the  best, —academy,  college,  theological 
seminary,  and  by  foreign  travel.  Eev.  John  W.  Dinsmore.D.  D., 
entered  the  Presbyterian  University;  ordained  in  18(53;  was  pastor 
at  Prairie  du  Sac,  Wis.,  from  1864  to  1870,  and  at  Bloomington,  ill., 
since  that  time,  having  charge  of  a  very  large  church  of  nearly 
seven  hundred  communicants.  He  m.  Dec.  22,  1852,  Adeline 
Vance,  of  the  same  Scotch-Irish  blood  as  himself.  F^es.  315  East 
Street,  Bloomington,  111.  Children:  Three  are  deceased;  those 
living  are  William  Vance  Dinsmure",  b.  March  30,  1868.  graduated 
second  in  his  class  of  one  hundred  and  forty-one  members  at 
Princeton  College,  N.  J.,  1890,  and  he  is  in  tlie  engineers'  depart- 
ment of  the  Burlington  &  Quincy  K.  R.,  Chicago,  111.;  Dudley 
Fitz-John  Dinsmore\  b.  May  16, 1873.  was  educated  at  Lake  For- 
rest Academy,  111  .  in  business,  Bloomington.  111.;  Paul  Anderson 
Dinsmore*.  b.  Aug.  24. 1877,  member  of  Illinois  Normal  University; 
Marguerita  Adeline  Dinsmore*,  b.  Feb.  10.  1882. 

82.  Jane  Melissa  Dinsmore',  b.  May  1. 1841 ;  m.  Wilson  McClean,of  Wash- 

ington. Penn.,  and  has  seven  children. 

83.  Mary  Virginia  Dinsmore'.  b.  May  l,  1841;  m.  J.  H.  McCarrell.    Ees. 

Lawrence,  Kan.    No  living  children. 

84.  James  Anderson  Dinsmore \  b.  July  2, 1844;  d.  in  infancy. 

85.  William  Malcolm  Dinsmore',  b.  Jan.  25. 1843;  m.  his  second  cousin, 

Margaret,  daugliter  of  W.  W.  Dinsmore,  and  they  reside  on  the 
old  homestead  at  Huntingdon  Plantation,  Canton  Top,  WasMng- 
ton  Co.,  Penn.    They  have  four  children. 

86.  Andrew  Dinsmore*  (61),  Adarn^  (?),  John', 
Laird  Dinsmoor^.  He  was  b.  at  Ballyw.Utiuk,  Bally- 
money,  County  of  Antrim,  Ireland,  in  1753,  and  emi- 
grated to  America  when  nineteen  years  of  age,  which 
would  be  in  1771-72,  and  settled  at  Peach  Bottom, 
York  Co.,  Penn.,  where  he  m.  Catherine,  only  daughter 
of  James  Alexander.     They  lived  there  the  remainder  of 


Records  and  history  of  different  branches  of  the  Diusmoor  family  are 
printed  in  the  following  woiks,  many  of  which  can  be  found  in  the. Library 
of  the  N.  E.  Historic  and  Genealogical  Society,  18  Somerset  Street,  Bos- 
ton, Mass.,  and  in  other  antiquarian  libraries: 

Rev.  Warren  R.  Cochrane's  History  of  Antrim,  N.  H. 

Hon.  Leauder  W.  Cogswell's  History  of  Henniker,  N.  H. 

Dinsmore  Genealogy,  published  1867,  by  Rev.  John  Dinsmore,  of 
Winslow.  Me. 

Eaton's  History  of  Thomaston,  Me. 

Genealogical  and  Historical  Register,  VoL  XVII. 

Keyes'  Hi.story  of  West  Boylston,  Mass. 

Little  Genealogy. 

Hon  Leonard  A.  Morrison's  History  of  Windham,  N.  H.  A  full  history 
and  genealogy  of  John  Dinsmoor^,  the  emigrant  to  Londonderry,  N.  H., 
and  his  descendunts,  7.)  pp. ;  prei>ared  by  Hon.  James  Dinsmoor. 

Page's  History  of  Hardwick,  Mass. 

History  of  Washington,  N.  H. 

Benjamin  Chase'.s  History  of  Chester.  X.  H. 

For  Dinsmores  of  Ireland,  see  Rambles  in  Europe,  with  Historical 
Facts  Relating  to  Scotch-American  Families,  by  Hon.  Leonard  A.  Morri- 
son, of  Windham.  N.  H. 

Rev.  Thomas  H.  Dinsmore,  D.  D.,  Highland,  Kan.,  is  preparing  a  gen- 
ealogy of  his  branch  of  the  family. 


ANDREW  DINSMOBE^,  OF  YORK,  PENN.    23 

their  lives.  He  d.  April.  1829,  aged  eeventy-seven  years. 
She  was  b.  February,  1767;  d.  August,  1814,  aged  forty- 
eight  years. 

CHILDKEK,    BORN    PEACH    BOTTOM,    YOEK    CO.,    PBNN.,     POST     OFFICJI 
8LATB  KIDGE. 

87.  Jenny  Dinsinore"  (.97),  b.  Aug.  9, 1783 ;  m.  .John  Livingston.    Tliey  lived 

near  Peacli  Bottom,  and  later  removed  to  Ashland  Co.,  Ohio. 

88.  Mary  Dinsmore",  b.  Feb.  9,  1786;  she  m.  Mr.  Scott.    Children:    Kev. 

John  W.  ScottS  D.  D.,  LL.  D. ;  was  President  of  Washington  Col- 
lege, Penn.,  and  d.  some  years  ago;  Rev.  James  Scotf^.  They 
were  successful  teachers,  as  well  as  prominent  clergymen  of  the 
Presbyterian  Church. 

89.  James  Alexander  Dinsmore^  (HI;,  b.  March  20, 1788;  m.  Grizzel  Col- 

lins; res.  Ashland  Co.,  Ohio. 

90.  Eachel  Dinsmore*,  b.  Jan.  9,  1791;  m.  Mr.  Kerr,  of  York  Co.,  Penn. 

Child:    Kitty  Ann  Kei t°. 

91.  William  Uinsmore",  b.  Feb.  15, 1794;  single ;  d.  when  a  young  man. 

92.  Martha  Dinsmore°  (119,,  b.  Jan.  22,  1797;  m.  David  Mitchell,  of  York 

Co.,  Penn. 

93.  Andrew  Dinsmore^  (124),  b.  June  10,  1799;  physician  and  teacher;  d. 

March  3, 1868. 

94.  Anne  Alexander  Dinsmore^  (125),  b.  June  26, 1801 ;  m.  Kev.  Benjamin 

Mitchell,  D.  D.,  of  York  Co.,  Penn.;  d.  Mt.  Pleasant,  Ohio,  June, 
1842. 

95.  Samuel  Dinsmore^  (132),  b.  April  4, 1804;  m.  Cecilia  M.  Williamson, 

of  Peach  Bottom,  York  Co.,  Penn.;  res.  Slaterville,  York  Co.,  Penn. 

96.  Robert  Caldwell  Dinsmore°  (141),  b.  July  28,1807;  m  Rebecca  Kilgore; 

res.  Peach  Bottom,  York  Co.,  Penn. 

97.  Jenny  Dinsmore^  (87),  Andrew*,  Adam'  (?), 
John^,  iatrt/ Din smoor^.  She  was  b.  at  Peach  Bottom, 
York  Co.,  Penn.,  Aug.  9,  1783;  ra.  .lolm  Livingston, 
who  resided  near  that  place.  They  removed  to  Ashland 
County,  Ohio,  in  1836,  where  they  died. 

CHILDREN. 

98.  Andrew  Livingston^  was  a  physician. 

99.  Sarah  Jane  Livin^slon". 

100.  Mary  Livingston's,  m.  Rev.  Jacob  Wolf,  of  Hawpatch,  LaGrange 

Co.,  Ind. 

101.  John  Livingston's. 

102.  Hugh  Livingston*. 

103.  Catherine  Livingston^. 

104.  William  Livingston",  d.  when  young. 

105.  Anne  Livingston". 

106.  James  Livingston*^,  d.  when  young. 

107.  Nancy  Livingston's. 

108.  Martha  Livingston",  m.  Rev.  J.  Ross  Ramsey,  of  York  County,  Penn. 

109.  William  S.  Livingston's,  ^vas  a  clergyman. 

110.  James  Robert  Livingston^. 

111.  James  Alexander  Dinsraore*  (89),  Andrew*, 
Adam'  (?),  John',  Laird  Diusmoori.  He  was  b.  at 
Peach  Bottom,  York  Co.,  Penn.,  March  20,  1788.  En- 
listed  as  a  soldier  in  the  war  of  1812-15,  and  with  his 


24         JAMES  ALEXANBEB  DINS  MORE  6. 

company  marched  to  the  defence  of  Fort  McHenry,  at 
Baltimore.  In  1814  he  went  to  Ohio,  and  entered  a  half- 
section  of  land  in  Ashland  Co.,  when  he  returned  to 
Pennsylvania,  where  he  lived  till  1833,  on  a  farm  on 
Muddy  Creek,  near  his  father's,  at  Peach  Bottom,  York 
Co.,  when  he  and  his  family  removed  to  his  farm  of  three 
hundred  and  twenty  acres,  on  the  Muddy  Fork,  in  Jack- 
son, Ashland  Co.,  Ohio.,  making  the  long  journey  through 
the  then  wilderness  and  over  the  mountains  in  a  wagon, 
his  wife,  with  a  babe  in  her  arms,  riding  most  of  the  way 
on  horseback.  He  and  his  wife  were  members  of  the 
Presbyterian  Church,  and  adorned  their  profession  by 
godly  lives,  living  in  peace  with  all  men.  He  d.  in  Jack- 
son, Ohio,  Jan.  7,  1863,  and  his  wife  Jan.  20,  1888.  Mrs. 
Dinsmore's  maiden  name  was  Grizzell,  a  daughter  of  David 
and  Dorcas  (Neal)  Collins,  of  Clianceford,  York  Co., 
Penn.,  a  runaway  coupl(\  Her  father  was  b.  1768;  d. 
March '26.  1828.  Her  mother  was  b.  Jan.  5,  1778;  d. 
March  6,  1874.  She  was  b.  Aug.  23,  1799,  and  m.  Mr. 
Dinsmore  March  14,  1826. 

CHILDREN:     THE  FOUR  ELDEST  WERE   BORN  IN  PEACH  BOTTOM,  YORK 
CO.,  PENN.  ;    THE  REST  IN  JAKCSON,  ASHLAND  CO.,   OHIO. 

112.  Catherine  Ann  Dinsmore"  (145).  b.  Feb.  8,  1827;  m.  May  2.  1848,  Au- 

gustus Moore  Hay,  who  d.  Nov.  26,  1850,  leaving  one  child.  She 
m.  second,  Williain  Collins,  who  lived  on  a  farm  near  Xenia,  Green 
Co..  Oliio,  where  their  four  children  were  born. 

113.  Tabitha  Mary  Dinsmore'' (I50i,  b.  Oct.  14, 1828;  m.  April  23, 185G,  Hon. 

Thomas  Beer.    Res.  Bucyrus,  Crawford  Co..  Ohio. 

114.  David  Collins  Dinsmore«  (160),  b.  Dec.  10,  1830;  m.  April  2,  1863, 

Cyrilla  Andrews. 

115.  Janette  Elizabeth  Dinsmore",  b.  April  16,  1833;   m.  Nov,  1.  18(35, 

Joseph  R.  Reed,  of  Adel,  Dallas  Co.,  Iowa.  She  d.  .July  27,  1887, 
at  Council  Bluffs,  Iowa.  She  was  a  member  of  the  Presbyterian 
Cliurch,  of  which  her  husband  was  an  elder,  and  was  faithful  unto 
death.  Mr.  Reed  was  elected  Judge  of  the  Court  of  Common 
Pleas  for  two  terms,  then  Judge  of  the  Supreme  Court,  and  was 
chosen  to  Congress  in  1888. 

116.  Andrew  Alexander  Dinsmore"  (171),  b.  Aug.  7. 18.35;  m.  Oct.  13,  1864, 

.Margaret  A.  Woodburn;  clergyman.    Res.  Alhambra,  Cal. 

117.  Rachel  Margaret  Dinsmore",  b.  March  20.  1838.    Res.  West  Salem, 

Wayne  Co.,  Ohio.  She  was  educated  at  Vermillion  Institute, 
Hayesville.  Ashland  Co.  Ohio;  was  then  a  teacher,  then  relin- 
quished her  work,  and  for  twenty  years  cared  for  her  invalid 
mother. 

118.  James  Robert  Washington  Dinsmore"  (176),  b.  Dec.  16,  1840;  m.  in 

1890,  Mrs.  Mary  Heacock. 

119.  Martha  Dinsmore^  (92),  Andrew*,  Adam^  (?), 
John2,  XaiW  Dinsmoor^.  She  was  b.  at  Peach  Bottom, 
York   Co.,   Penn.,   Jan.    22,    1797;    m.    May    17,    1821, 


BB.  ANDREW  DINSMORE^.  25 

David  Mitchell,  b.  at  Peach  Bottom,  Penn.,  Aug.  24, 
1796.  Pie  was  an  elder  in  the  church,  and  d.  April  20, 
1881.     She  d.  March  24,  1862. 

CHILDREN,  ALL  BORN  AT  PEACH  BOTTOM,  PENN. 

120.  Kev.  Andrew  Dinsmore  Mitchell",  b.  Feb.  22, 1824;  was  a  Chaplain  in 

the  regular  army ;  d.  at  Fort  Grant.  Ari.,  of  apoplexy,  March  26, 
1882.  He  ni.  Oct.  15, 1854,  Mary  Neistling,  of  Middletown,  Dauphine 
Co.,  Penn.,  and  left  a  son,  Prof.  B.  W.  MitclielP,  A.  M.,  Ph.  U., 
of  Allegheny  (Penn.)  Academy.  He  was  b.  March  24,  1861.  He  m. 
Annie  Lee  IMwai  ds,  of  Cumberland,  Penn. ;  res.  at  No.  18  ArcJi 
Street,  Allegheny.  Penn. 

121.  Joseph  Rodney  Mitchell",  b.  Nov.  21. 1825;  m.  Sept.  5,  1870,  Celia  C. 

Grove,  of  St.  Clairsville,  Ohio.  They  have  five  children:  Carrie 
Dinsmore  Mitchell',  b.  Sept.  4, 1873;  Mary  M.  Mitchell',  b.  March  4, 
1876;  Rodney  Mitchell',  b.  June  4,  1878;  Blanche  G.  Mitchell',  b. 
Nov.  30,  1881;  Helen  Cecelia  Mitchell',  b.  Nov.  16,1884.  Joseph 
Rodney  Mitchell  resides  at  St.  Clairsville,  Ohio,  where  all  his 
children  were  born. 
121a.  Mary  Catherine  Mitchell",  b.  Feb.  16, 1831 ;  d.  March  8, 1834. 

122.  Martha  Ann  Mitchell",  b.  Oct.  1,  1833;  res.  Woodbine,  York  Co., 

Penn. 

123.  Elizabeth  Susan  Harper  Mitchell",  b.  April  12,  1838;  m.  March  11, 

1880,  James  P.  Mitchell;  res.  Woodbine,  York  Co.,  Penn. 

134.  Andrew  Dinsmore^  (93),  Andrew*,  Adam^  (?), 
Jolin^,  Laird  Dinsmoor^.  Born  at  Peach  Bottom,  York 
Co.,  Penn.,  June  10,  1799;  never  married.  Graduated 
at  the  College  at  Schenectady,  N".  Y.,  became  a  physician, 
and  for  many  years  practised  his  profession  in  a  hospital 
at  Baltimore,  Md.  Afterward  he  established  a  school 
for  boys  at  Shrewsbury,  York  Co.,  Penn.,  where  he  was 
a  successful  teacher.     He  d.  March  8,  1868. 

135.  Anne  Alexander  Dinsmore^  (94),  Andrew*, 
Adam^  (?).  John^,  Xairfl^Dinsmoor^.  She  was  b.  at  Peach 
Bottom,  York  Co.,  Penn.,  June  26,  1801 ;  m.  April  26, 
1826,  Rev.  Benjamin  Mitchell,  D.  D.,  b.  Nov.  25,  1800, 
of  York  Co.,  Penn.  They  removed  to  Mt.  Pleasant, 
Jefferson  Co.,  Ohio,  where  he  preached  more  than  fifty 
years  to  one  congregation,  and  died  greatly  beloved  at  an 
advanced  age.  at  Mt.  Pleasant,  Ohio,  Dec.  26,  1884.  She 
d.  June,  1842. 

CHILDREN. 

126.  Catherine   Mitchell",  m.  Rev.  Joseph  Thoburn,   of  Wheeling,  W. 

Va.  He  was  Colonel  of  a  regiment,  promoted  to  Brigadier-Gen- 
eral, and  was  killed  while  in  the  United  States  service. 

127.  Mary  R.  Mitchell". 

128.  Addison  Mitchell". 

129.  Andrew  Mitchell". 

130.  Eliza  Mitchell". 

131.  Martin  Mitchell". 


26  SAMUEL  DINSM0BE6. 

138.  Samuel  Dinsmore^  (95),  Andrew*,  Adam3  (?), 
John2,  iaiVt/Dinsmoor^.  He  was  b.  at  Peach  Bottom, 
York  Co.,  Penn.,  April  4,  1804;  m.  June  13,  1837,  Cecilia 
M.,  daughter  of  Peter  and  Elizabeth  (Steele)  Williamson, 
b.  Sept.  21,  1816,  at  Peach  Bottom,  Penn.,  and  resided  at 
Peach  Bottom,  York  Co  ,  Penn..  where  he  died  April  29, 
1875.     She  res.  at  Peach  Bottom,  Penn. 

CHILDREN. 

133.  Catherine  Elizabeth  Dlnsmore«,  b.  April  17,  1838;  in.  Dec.  12,  1861, 

Robert  N.  Glasgow;  res.  Peach  Bottom,  Peun.  She  d.  March  13, 
1870. 

134.  Kachel  Anna  Dinsmore",  b.  March  11,  1840;  single;  res.  Peach  Bot- 

tom, Penn. 

135.  James  Scott  Dinsmore",  b.  Feb.  25, 1842 ;  res.  Peach  Bottom,  Penn. ; 

m.  June,  1872,  Sarah  Kilgore,  who  died.  He  m.  second,  Sarah 
Ferguson. 

136.  John  Calvin  Dinsmore',  b.  Sept.  23,  1844;  res.  Delta,  Penn.;  single; 

farmer. 

137.  Peter  Andrew  Dinsmore',  b.  March  10, 1850;  was  a  physician;  single. 

He  died  at  Deadwood,  Uak.,  Sept.  23, 1877. 

138.  Margaret  Marcelina  Dinsmore*,  b.  Aug.  18,  1852;  m.  June  6,  1883, 

James  Scarborough ;  res.  near  Pittsburg,  Penn. ;  farmer. 

139.  William  Samuel  Dinsmore",  b.  March  6,  1855;  res.  once  at  Delta. 

Penn.    He  m.  Mary  Cooper,  August,  1882.    Kes.  Smithsburg,  Md. ; 

140.  Thomas  Robert  Dinsmore",  b.  June  29, 1857;  d.  Feb.  5, 1858. 

141.  Robert  Caldwell  Dinsmore^  (96),  Andrew*, 
Adam3  (?),  John 2,  Laird  Dinsraoor^.  He  was  b.  at 
Peach  Bottom,  York  Co.,  Penn.,  July  28,  1807;  m. 
Rebecca  Kilgore,  of  Chanceford,  York  Co.,  Penn.;  res. 
at  Peach  Bottom,  Penn.,  until  their  death.  He  d.  Dec. 
8,  1863.  She  d.  Dec.  16,  1854.  Three  children  died  in 
infancy. 

CHILDKEN. 

142.  John  Andrew  Dinsmore".  b.  April  17,  1834;  m.  Feb.  l,  1860,  Sarah 

Elizabeth  Ramsay,  b.  May  10, 1836.  He  d.  in  Aberdeen,  S.  Dak., 
Sept.  27,  1888. 

CHILDREN. 

1.  Rebecca  Margaret  Dinsmore',  b.  Nov.  19, 1860. 

2.  Jennie  Augusta  Dinsmore',  b.  March  12.  1863;  m.  Jan.  15,  1890,  in 

Aberdeen,  S.  Dak.,  Edward  E.  McConkey,  of  Peach  Bottom, 
Penn. 

3.  Carrie  Nelson  Dinsmore',  b.  May  22, 1865. 

4.  Annie  Mary  Dinsmore',  b.  Sept.  7, 1867. 

5.  Ross  Alexander  Dinsmore',  b.  June  23. 1870. 

143.  Samuel  Nelson  Dinsmore",  b.  at  Peach  Bottom,  July  23, 1836;  d.  July 

9, 1863,  at  Portsmouth,  Va. ;  school  teacher;  single. 

144.  Robert  Alexander  Dinsmore".  b.  Sept.  14, 1840.  at  Peach  Bottom ;  res. 

Delta,  York  Co.,  Penn.  He  m.  March  7,  1872,  at  Peach  Bottom, 
Penn..  Annie  Maria  Watson,  b.  there  Nov.  12,  1850.  She  was  the 
daughter  of  Thomas  Alexander  and  Helen  (Beattie)  Watson,  of 
Peach  Bottom.    Her  father  was  born  in  Wilmington,  Del.,  son  of 


TABITHA  DINSMORE^.  27 


James  and  Margaret  (McAllister)  Watson,  of  Wilmington.  James 
was  son  of  Thomas  Watson,  of  the  North  of  Ireland.  Mr.  Uins- 
more  is  a  fanner  and  resides  at  Peach  Bottom,  Penn.,  on  the 
homestead  of  his  father,  once  owned  by  Andrew  DinsmoreS  the 
Emigrant. 

CHILDREN,  BORN  AT  PEACH  BOTTOM,  TORK  CO.,  PENN.,  EXCEPT 
THE  TWO  YOUNGEST. 

1.  Helen  Margaret  Dinsmore',  b.  Dec.  12. 1872. 

2.  Nelson  Caldwell  Diusmore",  b.  Sept.  11, 1874. 

3.  James  Watson  Dinsmore^  b.  July  19, 1876. 

4.  Walter  Scott  Dinsmoie',  b.  Sept.  25, 1878. 

5.  Kebecca  Kilgore  Dinsmore^  b.  April  28, 1880. 

6.  Chester  McAllister  Dinsmore',  b  May  3. 1882. 

7.  Thomas  Howard  Dinsmore'.  b.  Jan.  15, 1884. 

8.  Marian  Belle  Dinsmore',  b.  Jan.  19,  18S7. 

145.  Catherine  Ann  Dinsmore^  (112),  James  Alex- 
ander«,  Andrew*,  Adam^  (?),  John 2,  Laird  Dinsmoor*. 
She  was  b.  in  Peach  Bottom,  York  Co.,  Penn.,  Feb.  8, 
1827;  m.  May  2,  1848,  Augustus  Moore  Hay,  who  d. 
Nov.  26,  1850.     She  m.  second,  April  25,  1861,  William 

Collins,   of  ,   Green   Co.,  Ohio,   who  d.  July   18, 

1887.     Mrs.  Collins  d.  Dec.  28,  1887.     They  were  mem- 
bers  of  the  United  Presbyterian  Church. 

CHILDREN. 

146.  Henrietta  Grizzell  Hay',  b.  Aug.  14,  1850;  m. ;  res.  Springfield 

Ohio. 
14"a.  Dinsmore  Smart  Collins',  b.  April  13, 1862. 

147.  Mitchell  Wilberforce  Collins',  b.  Sept.  20, 1863. 

148.  Clarkson  Beer  Collins',  b.  July  28, 1867. 

149.  William  Augustine  Collins',  b.  April  16, 1870;  d.  in  infancy. 

150.  Tabitha  Mary  Dinsmore^  (113),  James  Alex- 
ander^,  Andrew*,  Adam^  (?),  John^,  Laird  Dinsmoori. 
She  was  b.  at  Peach  Bottom,  York  Co.,  Penn.,  Oct.  14, 
1828;  m.  April  23,  1856,  Thomas  Beer,  son  of  Rev. 
Thomas  Beer,  D.  D.,  a  Presbyterian  clergyman ;  res. 
Bucyrus,  Crawford  Co.,  Ohio.  He  was  a  member  of  the 
Ohio  Legislature  from  Crawford  County  in  1863,  of  the 
Constitutional  Convention  in  1873,  Judge  of  the  Court 
of  Common  Pleas  in  1874  and  subsequent  years,  and 
Judge  of  the  Circuit  Court  in  1884  and  1886  for  full 
term  of  six  years. 

CHILDREN. 

151.  Mary  Margaret  Beer',  b.  March  26,  1857;  d.  Jan.  12, 1866. 

152.  James  Dinsmore  Beer',  b.  Sept.  15, 1858;  m.  Sept.  2,  im,  Jean  Lyle 

Thobum,  of  Mount  Pleasant,  Ohio ;  physician ;  res.  Wooster,  Ohio. 


28  BEV.  ANDES  W  A.   DINSMORE^. 


CHILDREN. 

1.  Mary  Margaret  Beer". 

2.  1  bouias  Beer». 

153.    Thomas  Cameron  Beer^,  b.  Sept.  14. 1860. 

1&4.    William  Collius  Beer%  b.  Jan.  23,  1863;  m.  May  19, 1886.  Martha  Alice 

Baldwin,  at  Council  Bluffs,  Iowa;  is  in  the  Omaha  National  Bank; 

res.  Omaha,  Neb. 

CHILDREN. 

1.  Alice  B.  Beer». 

2.  Thomas  Beer*. 

155.  Dorcas  (irizzell  Beer',  b.  Dec.  31, 1865. 

156.  Katherine  Janette  Beer',  b.  May  13, 1868. 
1,57.    Kobert  L.  Beer',  b.  Aug.  9.  1870. 

158.  Infant  daughter',  b.  August  9, 1870;  d. 

159.  Mary  Elizabeth  Beer',  b.  Aug.  10, 1875. 

160.  David  Collins  Dinsmore*  (114),  James  Alex- 
ander^,  Andrew*.  Adam'  (?),  John^,  Lair.d  Dinsmoor'. 
He  was  b.  at  Peach  Bottom,  York  Co.,  Penn..  Dec.  10. 
1830;  m.  April  2,  1863,  Cyrilla  Andrews.  He  studied 
medicine  in  Cleveland,  Ohio;'  was  three  years  in  the  army, 
and  was  Captain  in  an  Iowa  regiment;  is  now  practising 
his  profession,  and  resides  in  Kirkville,  Iowa. 

CHILDREN. 

161.  Infant  son',  b.  and  d.  Dec.  21, 1864. 

162.  James  Andrew  Dinsraore'.  b.  May  30, 1866;  d.  April  2, 1868. 

163.  Jessie  Dinsniore',  b.  May  i2, 1867. 

164.  Katherine  Louisa  Dinsmore'.  b.  July  18, 1868;  d.  Aug.  20, 1868. 

165.  Clara  Dinsmore",  b.  July  4, 1869. 

166.  Henry  Dinsmore',  b.  Dec  17, 1870. 

167.  Mary  Dinsmore',  b.  Aug.  28, 1872;  d.  March  2, 1873. 

168.  Florence  Dinsmore',  b.  Oct.  28.  1873. 

169.  Henrietta  Dinsmore'.  b.  Nov.  10.  1874. 

170.  Helen  Dinsmore',  b.  Sept.  20, 1876. 

171.  Rev.  Andrew  Alexander  Dinsmore^  (116), 
James  Alexander s,  Andrew*,  Adam'  (?),  John 2,  Laird 
Dinsmoor^.  He  was  b.  at  Rowsbnrg,  Ashland  Co.,  Ohio, 
Aug.  7,  1835 ;  m.  Oct.  13,  1864.  Margaret  Ann  Wood- 
burn,  b.  Aug.  11,  1842,  daughter  of  John  and  Jane 
(Hutchinson)  Woodburn,  of  Freeport,  Armstrong  Co., 
Penn.  He  graduated  at  Jefferson  College,  Canonsburg, 
Penn.,  in  1860,  and  in  1863  from  the  Western  Theolog- 
ical Seminary,  at  Allegheny,  Penn.,  and  was,  in  1862, 
licensed  to  preach  by  the  Wooster  Presbytery  of  Ohio. 
During  the  war,  was  twice  at  the  front  in  the  service  of 
the  Christian  Commission ;  in  November  and  December, 
1863,  at  the  battle  of  Chattanooga,  Tenn.,  and  in  April 


JAMES  B.    W.  DINSMQRE^.  29 

and  May,  1865,  at  City  Point,  Ya.  In  1864  was  ordained 
and  installed  over  the  Presbyterian  Church  at  Neenah, 
Wis.  In  November,  1866,  was  called  to  First  Presby- 
terian Church  at  Des  Moines,  Iowa,  where  he  spent  live 
years.  Was  pastor  of  church  in  Milford,  Del,,  in  1873, 
and  in  1876  was  called  to  Bridesburg,  Philadelphia, 
Penn.,  where  he  remained  about  twelve  years.  Went  to 
California  in  1887,  and  on  July  17,  1889.  he  took  the 
pastorate  of  the  First  Presbyterian  Church  in  his  present 
home.     Res.  Alhambra,  Los  Angeles  Co.,  Cal. 

CHILDREN. 

172.  William  Alexander  Dinsmore',  b.  Des  Moines,  Iowa,  Jan.  5,1867; 

single;  res.  Sioux  City,  Iowa  ;  banker. 

173.  Frank  Woodburn  Dinsniore',  b.  Des  Moines,  Iowa.  Nov.  4, 1869  ;  res. 

Sioux  City,  Iowa;  merchant. 

174.  Howard  Collins  Dinsmore',  b.  Milford,  Del.,  July  3,  1875;  d.  Phila- 

delphia, Penn.,  Dec.  9, 1876. 

175.  Mabel   Lulu  Dinsmore',  b.  Philadelphia,  Penu.,  May  10,  1881;  res. 

Alhambra,  Cal. 

176.  James  Robert  Washington  Dinsmore^  (US)? 
James  Alexander^,  Andrew*,  Adam^  (?),  John 2,  Laird 
Dinsmoori.  He  was  b.  Jackson,  Ashland  Co.,  Ohio, 
Dec.  16,  1840.  He  served  three  years  in  t!ie  Union  Army, 
and  was  three  times  wounded.  He  in.  1890,  Mrs.  Mary 
Heacock.  He  was  educated  at  the  Vermillion  Institute, 
Hayesville,  Ashland  Co.,  Ohio;  res.  on  the  homestead  at 
Jackson,  Ashland  Co.,  Ohio ;  owns  a  portion  of  the  farm 
of  his  father,  and  has  one  child. 


DINSMORES    OF    PENNSYLVANIA. 

177.     Robert  Dinsmore*, Dinsmore^,  John 2, 

XaiVc?  Dinsmoori.  He  was  b.  in  the  North  of  Ireland, 
probably  in  Ballywattick,  Ballymoney,  County  Antrim. 
He  was  of  pure  Scotch  blood,  and,  according  to  tradition, 
was  the  son  or  grandson  of  Robert  Dinsmoor^  (.5),  Adam 
Dinsmoor^  (6),  or  Samuel  Dinsmoor^  (7),  the  three 
brothers  of  John  Dinsmoor^  (4)  who  emigrated  to  New 
Hampshire  as  early  as  1723.  These  four  brothers,  as  has 
been  stated,  were  sons  of  John  Dinsmoor^,  who  emigrated 
from  Scotland  to  Ireland,  who  was  son  of  Laird  Dins- 
moori,  who  lived  upon  the  River  Tweed. 


30    ROBERT  DINSMORE*,  THE  EMIGRANT. 

According  to  the  information  which  we  have,  the  afore- 
said Robert  Dinsmoor^,  Adam  Dinsmoor^,  and  Samuel 
Dinsmoor3  were,  with  their  children,  and  Robert  Dins- 
moor*,  who  emigrated  to  Xew  Hamiishire  in  1731,  the 
only  Dinsmoors  in  that  section  of  coiiritry  at  that  })eriod, 
from  1722  to  1726;  so  I  have  called  Robert  Dinsmore*, 
the  sul)ject  of  this  sketch,  of  the  fourth  generation.  By 
tradition  he  was  a  cousin  of  Robert*,  James*,  and 
Andrew  Dinsmoor*,  who  had  preceded  him  a  score  or 
more  of  years  and  settled  in  Pennsylvania.     (See  \k  19.) 

Mr.  Dinsmore*  m.  Nancy,  daughter  of  Moses  Scott, 
also  of  Scotch  blood.  Her  father  lived  in,  or  near,  the 
City  of  Londonderry,  Ireland.  He  and  his  wife  were 
members  of  the  Presbyterian  Church,  and  both  were  dis- 
tinguished for  intelligence,  piety,  and  strict  adherence  to 
the  church  of  their  forefathers.  After  marriage  they 
lived  in  the  County  of  Donegal,  on  the  Lough  or  River 
Foyle,  three  miles  below  the  City  of  Londonderry,  Ire- 
land,* where  nine  children  were  born  to  them.  They 
were  lovers  of  liberty  and  haters  of  the  annoyances,  civil, 
religious,  and  political,  incident  to  their  abode  in  Ireland. 
So.  in  1790,  Mr.  Dinsmore  and  his  sons,  John'  and 
Robert*,  sought  and  found  a  home  in  the  new  Republic. 
During  their  absence,  Mrs.  Dinsmore  died,  when  his  eldest 
daughter,  Mary*,  with  the  others,  settled  up  the  business, 
and,  following  the  direction  of  their  father,  these  seven 
children  set  sail  for  the  United  States,  arrived  in  1792, 
and  settled  in  Peach  Bottom,  York  Co.,  Penn.,  about 
1800  or  1801.  He  removed  to  Allegheny  Co.,  and  set- 
tled on  a  farm  on  Turtle  Creek,  about  twelve  miles  east 
of  Pittsburg,  where,  as  a  farmer,  he  spent  the  remainder 
of  his  life.     He  had  been  a  farmer  in  Ireland. 

In  his  eighty-third  year  he  m.  second,  Mrs.  Margaret 
(Acheson)  Stewart,  Xov.  16,  1805,  and  they  had  three 
children.      She  was  a  native  of   the  North  of    Ireland. 


*On  the  afternoon  of  Wednesday,  ^larch  27,  1884,  I  met,  in  the  City  of 
I^ndonderry.  Ireland.  James  Dinsmoor  and  his  two  sons  from  Muff,  in 
the  County  of  Donegal,  Ireland,  on  Lough  or  Kiver  Foyle.  and  three  miles 
from  the  Citv  of  Londonderry.  The  Christian  names  of  James,  John,  and 
Ephraim  frequently  appeared  in  that  branch  of  the  Dinsmoor  family. 
Tneir  home  was  certainly  not  far  from  the  place  from  which  emigrated 
Kobert  Dinsmoor*,  to  Pennsylvania.—  [Leonabd  A.  Mokbison. 


BOBERT  DINSMOBEn.  31 

He  was  a  man  of  great  activity,  energy,  and  force;  was 
hale  and  stout  in  his  old  age,  and  carried  forward  success- 
fully the  business  of  his  farm.  He  was  severely  injured 
by  the  fall  of  his  horse,  and  died  in  1817,  between  ninety 
and  ninety-five  years  of  age.  His  wife  survived  him,  and 
died  April  4.  1842.  His  tomb  is  in  the  cemetery  of  the 
Beulah  Presbyterian  Church,  of  which  he  and  his  wife 
were  members.  The  first  family  of  children  grew  to 
adult  age,  married,  and  had  families,  except  the  eldest 
daughter,  who  died  in  young  womanhood. 

CHILDKEN. 

178.  John  Dinsmore',  m.  Martha  Pollock,  soon  after  Lis  arrival  in  Penn- 

sylvania, 1790.    He  settled  in  the  country  in  York  Co..  where  he  d. 
early  in  the  present  century.    He  had  two  sons  and  one  daughter. 

179.  Eobert  Dinsniore\  m.  Feb.  28,  1827,  Margaret  Curry,  and  settled  on  a 

farm  on  Pucketaw  Creek,  Westmoreland  Co.,  Penn.,  wliere  he  d. 
aged  about  eighty  years. 

CHILDREN. 

1.    Robert  Dinsmore",  m.  Mary  Livingston,  and  left  nine  children, 
eight  of  whom  arrived  at  maturity,  and  four  became  teachers. 

CHILDREN. 

I.  Margaret  C.  Dinsmore',  m.  A.  M.  Wolff.  Children:  Kev.  Dr.  A. 
F.  Wolff*,  pastor  of  the  First  Presbyterian  Church;  res. 
Alton,  111.  Kobert  Dinsmore  Wolff *,  res.  Greensburg, 
Westmoreland  Co.,  Penn. ;  is  local  editor  of  the  "  Greens- 
burg Press."    Elizabeth  Dinsmore  Wolff',  is  not  married. 

II.  Kobert  Scott  Dinsmore',  b.  July  li,  1829,  in  Plum  Top.  Alle- 

gheny Co.,  Penn.;  has  been  a  teacher  most  of  his  lite;  now 
a  farmer  and  Justice  of  the  Peace.  He  m.  April  18,  I86i, 
Isabella  Christy,  daughter  of  David  Christy  of  Plum  Top, 
Penn.,  who  d.  May  9, 1803;  two  sons,  one  deceased.  He  m. 
second,  Sept.  3,  1867,  Sarah  Jane  McKee.  Mr.  Dinsmore, 
his  wife,  daughter,  and  three  eldest  sons,  are  members  of 
the  Presbyterian  Church.  Children:  John  Hamilton  Dius- 
more%  b.  Jan.  31,  1862;  m.  Sept.  19,  1888,  Nettie  Wilson, 
of  Minnesota;  farmer;  res.  Maine.  Otter  Tail  Co.,  Minn. 
Harry  Homer  Dinsmore',  b.  Sept.  6, 18G8;  student  in  Greens- 
burg Seminary,  Penn.  William  McKee  Dinsmore',  b. 
March  15. 1870;  at  home;  farmer.  Mary  Alice  Dinsn)ore\ 
b.  April  11, 1872.  Robert  Koss  Dinsmore',  b.  Sept.  24, 1874. 
Clarence  Carey  Dinsmore',  b.  May  17,  1877.  Alexander 
Cooke  Dinsmore',  b.  Nov.  28, 1879.  Benjamin  Scott  Dins- 
more', b.  Sept.  6, 1882. 

III.  Mattie  Robinson  Dinsmore',  m.    Alexander  Cooke,   and   d. 

March  7,  1888. 

IV.  Mary  Livingston   Dinsmore',  m.    Hugh    Donnell.     Children: 

Kobert  Dinsmore  Donnell",  res.  Richmond,  Ind.    Rebe^  ca 
Donnell',  res.  with  her  parents  in  Verona,  Allegheny  Co., 
Penn. 
V.    James  Livingston  Dinsmore',  b.  Feb.  1,  1835;  d.  April  30, 1888; 

single. 
VI.    Sarah  Koss  Dinsmore',  res.  Shenandoah,  Iowa. 
VII.    Nannie  M.  Dinsmore',  m.  August,  1881,  Benjamin  Walp.    He 

died.    She  res.  Shanandoah,  Iowa. 
VIII.    Rebecca  Alter  Dinsmore',  m.  Robert  H.  Adams;  res.  Canton, 
Ohio. 


32  M  AEG  ABET  CUBBY  DINSMOBEe. 


2.    Margaret  Curry  Dinsmore^,  m.  Hon.  Joseph  Alter,  of  Parnassus, 
Westmoreland  Co.,  Penn.,  and  bad 

CHILDREN. 

I.  David  Alter',  b.  Dec.  28. 1829;  ra.  Mary  Anderson.  Dec. 31, 1863. 
He  is  a  successful  physician  and  has  been  in  practice  since 
18C5.  He  graduated  at  Jefferson  Medical  College,  in  Pliila- 
delphia,  Penn.,  March  9, 1861.  and  was  surgeon  of  the  200th 
Regiment  of  Pennsylvania  Voluntt-ers  dining  the  war. 
He  res.  Parnassus,  Penn.  Children:  Alonzo  Anderson 
Alter',  b.  March  10, 1865;  is  a  member  of  the  class  of  '92, 
at  Princeton  College,  N.  J.  William  Irvine  Altera  is  in 
business  at  704  Eighth  Avenue,  New  Yoric  City.  He  was 
manager  and  proprietor  of  the  "  Parnassus  Press  "  for 
two  vears.  Joseph  Alter\  is  a  member  of  the  class  of  '94, 
at  Westminster  College,  New  Wilmington,  Lawrence  Co., 
Penn. 
II.  Robert  Dinsraore  Alter',  b.  July  18, 1839;  m.  Elizabeth,  daugh- 
ter of  John  McKean,  of  Burrell,  Penn.,  and  d.  February, 
1887.  Children:  Maggie  Viola  Alter*;  Randall  Murray 
Alter*;  James  Clarence  Alter*.  They  all  live  at  Parnassus, 
Penn. 

III.  Rev.  Joseph  Alter',  b.  Dec.  18, 1841 ;  was  a  member  of  the  I23d 

Regiment  of  Pennsylvania  Volunteers;  was  wounded  at 
the  battle  of  Fredericksburg;  graduated  at  the  University 
of  Wooster,  Ohio,  June  25,  1873,  and  at  the  U.  P.  Theolog- 
ical Seminary,  at  Allegheny,  Penn.;  was  licensed  to 
preach  April  18,  1876;  ordained  at  Valley  Falls,  Dec.  12, 
1877,  and  was  pastor  there  and  at  Waterville  for  seven 
years;  was  a  missionary  in  Washington  Territory  until  1891, 
when  he  was  appointed  to  the  Indian  Mission  at  Warm 
Springs,  Crook  Co,,  Ore.,  where  he  res.  April,  1891.  He  m. 
Jeanette  Copley,  Nov.  25,  1886.  Children:  Wade  Dinsmore 
Alter*,  b.  March  25,  1888;  Margaret  Truby  Alter*,  b.  Nov. 
11, 1889. 

IV.  Maria  Alter',  m.  iMartin  Van  Buren,  a  grandson  of  the  late 

President  Van  Buren.     He  is  a  farmer,  an  elder  in  the 
Presbyterian  Church,  and  res.  at  Forest,  Hardin  Co.,  Ohio. 
Children:  Robert  Van  Buren*;  Carl  Van  Buren*;  Kent  Van 
Buren*;  Ethel  Van  Buren";  Hattie  Van  Buren*. 
V.    Nancy  Alter',  who  lived  to  adult  age. 
VI.    Margaret  Alter',  who  lived  to  adult  age. 
VII.    Elizabeth  Alter',  who  lived  to  adult  age. 
VIII.    Rebecca  D.  Alter',  who  lived  to  adult  age. 
IX.    Mary  Jane  Alter',  d.  in  infancy. 
X.    Jane  Alter',  d.  in  infancy. 
XI.    Lucinda  Ann  Alter',  d.  in  infancy. 

180.  Mary  Dinsmore^,  d.  unmarried  in  early  woomanhood. 

181.  Jane  Dmsmore",  m.  James  Garvine;  res.  Ohio  Co.,  ten  miles  south 

of  Wheeling,  W.  Va. 

CHILDREN. 

1.  John  Garvine',  m.  1834.  Helen  Ritchie ;  lived  in  Guernsey  Co.,  near 

New  Cumberland.  Ohio;  d.  1882,  leaving  eight  children. 

2.  Moses  Dinsmore  Garvine".  m.  Miss  Phillips,    child:  William  Gar- 

vine,  who   is   married   and   has  children.     Res.  Cambridge, 
Guernsey  Co..  Ohio. 

3.  James  Garvine",  d.  in  Weston,  Mo,,  leaving  two  sons. 

4.  Mary  Garvine",  m.  Martin  Kellar;  res.  Bridgeport,  Ohio.    She  left 

several  children. 

5.  Rachel  Garvine",  m. Smith,  M.  D. 

182.  Henry  Dinsmore',  m.  1806,  Sarah  Ross;  lived  on  a  farm  near  Turtle 

Creek,  Allegheny  Co.,  Penn.,  wliere  he  died  about  1846;  ten  chil- 
dren; four  died  in  infancy  and  the  others  arrived  at  maturity. 


THOMAS  DINSMOBE^.  33 


CHILDREN. 

1.  Nancy  Scott  Dinsmore^,  m.  March  1, 1827,  Hamilton  Stewart.   They 

left  eleven  children. 

2.  Margaret  Diusniore»,  m.  Thomas  P.  Brown,  and  left  four  children. 

3.  Jane  Dinsmore",  m.  William  Fletcher;  no  children. 

4.  Mary  Dinsmore®,  m.  Calhoun  Clargston,  in  1838;  seven  children. 

5.  Thomas  Ross  DinsmorC^.  m.  Sarah  Monroe,  in  l83i-35;  two  children. 

6.  Sarah  Dinsmore**,  m.  Matthew  Henning,  in  1844 ;  one  child,  d.  young. 

183.  Elizabeth   Dinsmore^  m.  "William   Willock,  of   Pittsburg,  Penn., 

where  they  lived  and  died,  leaving 

CHILDBEN. 

1.  Nancy  Willock«,  m.  Pachard  Hope,  and  left  six  children. 

2.  Mary  Willock";  single;  Allegheny.  Penn. 

3.  Sarah  Ann  "Willock",  m.  Net  Metyar,  a  merchant ;  res.  Allegheny 

City,  Penn.    No  children. 

4.  "William  Foster  Willock";  merchant;  d.  unmarried. 

5.  Jane  Willock",  m.  Moses  Ward;  six  children;   res.  Allegheny, 

Penn.    His  son,  John  Scott  Ward';  res.  Allegheny,  Penn. 

6.  John  Scott  Willock",  m.  Miss  Hayes;  res.  Allegheny,  Penn.   Chil- 

dren:   James  Willock', is  a  banker;  Lillie  Willock";  "William 
Willock',  dec,  was  a  banker;  Frank  Willock'. 

7.  James  Willock",  d.  in  infancy. 

184.  Thomas  Dinsmore^,  b.  1780,  in  Ireland,  County  Donegal;  m.  1812-13, 

Mary  Gray;  res.  on  a  farm  in  Rich  Hill,  Greene  Co.,  Penn. 

CHILDREN. 

1.  Robert  Dinsmore",  m.  Amy  Bane;  several  children;  res.  Crow's 

Mills,  Greene  Co.,  Penn. 

2.  Bythinia  Dinsmore",  ni.  Philip  Conkle;  no  children,  res.  Crow's 

Mills,  Greene  Co.,  Penn. 

3.  Nancy  Scott  Dinsmore",  m.  John  "Vanatta ;  several  children.    She 

m..  second,  Mr.  Throckmorton;  no  children. 

4.  Mary  Dinsmore".  m.  Benjamin  Dunbin ;  four  children. 

5.  Jane  Elizabeth  Dinsmore",  m.  James  Vanatta ;  one  child. 

6.  Anne  Dinsmore",  m.  Milton  Beabort,  and  had  nine  children,  all 

deceased. 

7.  John  Gray  Dinsmore",  m.  Margaret  Harvey;  res.  Crow's  Mills, 

Greene  Co.,  Penn.;  four  children:  William  Dinsmore',  Mary 
Dinsmore',  Benjamin  Dinsmore',  Margaret  Dinsmore'. 

8.  Thomas   Dinsmore".  ni.  Miss  Elliott;   several   children.    He  m. 

a  second  and  a  third  wife ;  res.  West  Union,  Ohio  Co.,  W.  "Va. 

9.  Henry  Dinsmore",  m.  Miss  McKarihan,  daughter  of  Joseph,  and 

left  children. 

185.  Moses  Dinsmore"  (190),  b.  1783;  res.  Rich  Hill,  Greene  Co.,  Penn. 

186.  Nancy  Dinsmore'"'.  m.  1811.  James  Hamilton,  of  Pittsburg,  Penn. 

"He  was  a  whitesmith."  They  left  six  children.  One  was  a 
lawyer,  and  is  deceased. 

Children  of  Robert  Dinsmore* ,  by  Second  Marriage. 

187.  Martha  Pollock  Dinsmore\  b.  Nov.  16, 1806;  ni.  Andrew  Thompson, 

April,  1827.    They  are  deceased ;  no  children. 

188.  William  Dinsmore%  b.  Dec.  16, 1807;  m.  Charlotte  Ramsay,  of  Wash- 

ington Co.,  Penn.,  March  10,  1846;  res.  Belmont  Co.,  Ohio;  six  sons 
and  two  daughters. 

189.  Margaret  Padeu  Dinsmore",  b.  Aug.  3.  1809;    m.  James  Hope  in 

1827,  b.  1802,  d.  July  14,  1880;  ten  children.  Robert  Hope",  res. 
Greensboro,  Westmoreland  Co.,  Penn.  The  others  resside  in 
Eastern  Iowa. 


34  MOSES   DIJS'SMORE^. 

190.     Moses  Dinsmore^  (185),  Robert*, Dins- 

more^,  Jolin^,  Xa ird  D'msmoor^ .  He  was  b.  in  County 
Donegal,  Ireland,  in  1783,  in  the  home  on  the  Foyle 
River,  three  miles  from  the  City  of  Londonderry,  Ireland. 
From  a  child  he  was  stiidions  and  religiously  inclined, 
and  early  united  with  the  Presbyterian  Church.  In  1812 
he  purchased  a  tract  of  land  of  two  hundred  acres  in  Rich 
Hill,  Greene  Co.,  Penn.,  and  commenced  his  farm.  He 
m.  June  9,  1814,  Irenasa,  daughter  of  Francis  and  Eliza- 
beth (Martin)  Braddock,  who  was  b.  Sejjt.  20,  1790,  and 
whose  parents,  about  the  time  of  the  Revolution,  settled 
in  the  forest  of  Western  Pennsylvania.  Mr.  Dinsmore 
was  an  elder  in  the  church.  His  life  was  one  of  useful- 
ness, and  he  d.  April  3,  1836,  in  his  fifty-third  year. 
Mrs.  Dinsmore  d.  Aug.  20,  1834. 

CHILDREN,  BOKN  ON  DINSMORE    FARM.   RICH  HILL, 
GREK:NE  CO.,   PENN. 

191.  Kev.  Robert  Scott  Dinsmore",  b.  Nov.  U.  1815;  m.  May  4, 1837,  Mar- 

garet Loughbridge,  wbo  d.  June  13, 1838;  one  child.  He  m.  second 
in  1849.  Sarali  Whitham.  He  went  that  year  to  Iowa  as  a  Home 
Missionary,  and  was  pastor  of  the  Presbyterian  Church  of  Wash- 
ington, Iowa,  from  1849  to  1853;  d.  Aug.  27, 1853. 

CHILDREN. 

1.  William  Loughbridge  Dinsmore',  b.  on  the  Dinsmore  farm,  Rich 

Hill,  Greene  Co.,  Penn.,  March  13.1838;  ni.  in  1860.  Sarah  C. 
Wirick,  b.  Dec.  24,  1842.  They  res.  Adair,  Adair  Co..  Iowa. 
Children:  Robert  Scott  Dinsmore\  b.  Sept.  1, 1862;  m.  Nov.  27, 
1890,  at  Otfnmwa,  Iowa.  Sadie  Ray  Bell,  b.  Sept.  10. 1869.  He  is 
a  carpenter  and  bridge  builder ;  res.  Ottumwa.  Iowa.  Margaret 
Elizabeth  Dinsmore\  b.  April  13, 1864;  m.  Dec.  26,  1880,  Elton 
Booth;  res.  Adair,  Adair  Co.,  Iowa.  William  Henry  Dinsmore", 
b.  Jan.  29. 1871;  teacher;  res.  Adair,  Iowa. 

2.  John  Milton  Dinsmore',  b.  May  5, 1850;  d.  March  13. 1852. 

3.  Elizabeth  Dinsmore',  b.  1852;  res.  Battle  Creek,  Mich. 

192.  Rev.  Francis  Braddock  Dinsmore",  b.  April  22,  1817;  m.  June  6, 1847, 

Jane  Patterson,  b.  April  10,  1820,  in  Washington  Co.,  Penn.  That 
year  he  went  to  Iowa  as  a  Home  Missionary,  and  was  pastor  of  the 
church  at  Mount  Pleasant,  Iowa.  Two  children,  a  son  and  a 
daughter,  died  in  infancy. 

CHILDREN. 

1.  William  Patterson  Dinsmore'.  b.  July  28. 1851 ;  d.  Aug.  15, 1853. 

2.  Frances  Katherine  Dinsmore',  b.  at  Morning  Sun,  Iowa,  May  3, 

1855;  m.  Henry  (iriflin.  Jan.  25,  1877;  res.  Gaynor  City,  Mo.; 
Ave  children,  born  at  Nodaway  Co.,  Mo.:  .lohn  Monroe  Griffin*, 
b.  Dec.  26,  1877.  Ada  .lane  Griffln\  b.  June  3,  1880.  Charles 
Walter  Griffin",  b.  Oct.  6, 1882.  Lizzie  Myrtle  Griffin",  b.  April 
24. 1887.    Ora  Gertrude  Griffin",  b.  Nov.  22, 1888;  d.  Oct.  14, 1889. 

3.  John  McCluskey  Dinsmore'.  b.  Morning  Sun.  Iowa,  Aug.  3,  18.56; 

m.  Cornelia  E.  Bucks.  May  16, 1883;  res.  Gaynor  City,  Mo.  Two 
children:  Grover  Cleveland  Dinsmore",  b.  Dec.  18, 1885.  May 
Mabel  Dinsmore',  b.  July  27, 1887. 


BEV.  THOMAS  HUGHES  DINSMORE,  D.  D.   35 


4.  William  Henry  Dinsmore^,  b.  Morning  Sun,  Iowa,  Nov.  17, 1858;  m. 

in  Maryville,  Mo.,  Fiances  T.  Simmons,  Sept.  8,  1886.  Two 
children:  Francis  B.  Dinsmore\  b.  Aug.  18, 1887.  Bessie  Jane 
Dinsmore',  b.  Dec.  3, 1888. 

5.  Thomas  Chalmers  Dinsmore',  b.  Mount  Pleasant,  Iowa,  July  29 

1861;  m.  Mattie  SylvaForshee,  Jan.  l,  1891;  res.  Gaynor  City,' 
Nodaway  Co.,  Mo. 

193.  Kev.  Thomas  Hughes  Dinsmore",  D.  D.,  b.  Aug.  15, 1819;  m.  Sept.  14, 

1847,  Elizabeth  McConaughey,  b.  April  13,  1822,  only  daughter  of 
Eobert  and  Mary  (Anderson)  McConaughey,  who  came  from  the 
North  of  Ireland.  Mr.  Dinsmore  was  a  Home  Missionary  in  Iowa. 
Many  years  were  spent  by  him  in  pioneer  educational  work  as  well 
as  in  missionary  labor,  in  Iowa,  Missouri,  and  Kansas.  His  home 
for  many  years  has  been  at  Highland,  Doniphan  Co.,  Kan.,  where 
his  wife  died  July  24, 1874. 

CHILDKBN. 

1.  Mary  E.  M.  Dinsmore',  b.  Sept.  18, 1848;  d.  July  14, 1849. 

2.  Virginia  McChe^'ue  Dinsmore',  b.  Nov.  22,  1849;  unmarried;  res. 

Highland,  Kan. 

3.  Archibald  Alexander  Dinsmore',  b.  Oct.  30,  1851;  m.  1877,  Lizzie 

Dreher,  daughter  of  Hon.  Samuel  Dreher,  of  Stroudsburg, 
Penn.  He  is  an  attorney ;  was  admitted  to  the  bar  in  1876;  res. 
Philadelphia,  Penn.  Children:  Bessie  Dinsmore^  b.  July  1, 
1878;  Francis  William  Dinsmore",  b.  Jan.  29, 1880. 

4.  Kobert  Scott  Dinsmores  M.  D.,  b.  Dec.  4,  1853;  m.  Nov.  21, 1883, 

Esther,  daughter  of  Judge  Wilkinson,  of  Troy,  Kan.,  b.  Jan. 
19,1864.  Child:  Bertha  i5insmore\  b.  Sept.  21, 1884;  res.  Troy, 
Doniphan  Co.,  Kan. 

5.  Prof.  Thomas  Hughes  Dinsmore',  Jr.,  Ph.  D.,  b.  May  18,  1855;  is 

professor  of  chemistry  and  physics  in  the  State  Normal  School 
at  Emporia,  Kan.;  res.  Emporia,  Kan.  He  m.  Minnie  Curtiss, 
daughter  of  Rev.  Mr.  Curtiss,  of  Preble,  N.  Y. 

6.  Francis  William  Dinsmore',  b.  April  21, 1857;  merchant;  m.  Emma 

Adelia  Toner,  a  teacher,  June  lo.  1886;  res.  Fairbury,  Neb. 
Children:  Archibald  Hughes  Dinsmore",  b.  July  25,  1887;  Fran- 
cis Elmer  Dinsmore^  b.  Jan.  10, 1890. 

7.  Mary  Irentea  Dinsmore',  b.  Jan.  23,  1859.    She  was  a  professor  in 

Hastings  College,  Hastings,  Adams  Co.,  Neb.,  from  1883  to  1889. 
She  m.  Aug.  26, 1889,  Daniel  Upton,  Jr.,  b.  Sept.  26, 1853;  book- 
keeper; res.  Muskegon,  Mich.  Child:  Thomas  Dinsmore 
Upton",  b.  Oct.  18, 1890. 

8.  Elizabeth  McConaughey  Dinsmore',  b.  March  10,  1862;  unmarried; 

res.  Highland,  Ivan. 

194.  Rev.  John  Martin  Dinsmore'"',  b.  INIay  25, 1821 ;  m.  Martha  Jane  Grey, 

July  19, 1847,  b.  Feb.  19, 1826;  res.  Carthage,  Jasper  Co.,  Mo. 

CHILDREN. 

1.  Mary  Irencea  Dinsmore',  b.  Sept.  13, 1849;  single;  res.  Carthage, 

Mo. 

2.  John  Grey  Dinsmore',  b.  Oct.  21,  1851;  m.  Nancy  Jane  Moody, 

Sept.  8, 1872. 

CHILDREN. 

I.  Jessie  M.  Dinsmore",  b.  July  28, 1873. 

II.  Elmer  G.  Dinsmore",  b.  Dec.  5, 1875. 

III.  Scott  Dinsmore",  b.  July  6. 1878. 

:  IV.  Roy  Dinsmore",  b.  Nov.  1. 1880. 

V.  Kate  M.  DinsmoreS  b.  April  14. 1882. 

VI.  John  Dinsmore^  b.  March  6, 1885. 

VII.  Joe  Dinsmore^,  b.  Aug.  19, 1887. 


36      BEV.    WILLIAM  HENBY  DINSMOBE^. 


3.  Martha  Jane  Dinsmore^,  b.  Nov.  24,  1853;  m.  Burgen  H.  Brown, 

April  24, 1877;  res.  Carthage,  Mo.  Children:  Elmer  B.  Brown^, 
b.  March  1, 1878;  Clara  E.  Brown^,  b.  April  28,  1880;  Berenice 
S.  Brown^,  b.  Jan.  5, 1883;  Martha  J.  Brown*,  b.  June  7,  1886; 
Homer  Brown^,  b.  March  13, 1887. 

4.  William  S.  P.  Dinsmore',  b.  Sept.  9, 1856;  d.  April  9, 1857. 

5.  M.  Josephine  Dinsmore',  b.  March  2,  1858;  m.  Charles  Eansom, 

March  14, 1888. 

6.  Plummer  L.  Dinsmore',b.  Aug.  7.  1860;  m.  Esther  Y.  Hood,  June 

10, 1885;  he  d.  Sept.  6,  1886.  Child:  Marguerite  H.  Dinsmore*, 
b.  April  27, 1886;  res.  Carthage,  Mo. 

7.  Nannie  A.  Dinsmore',  b.  Oct.  10, 1863;  single;  res.  Carthage,  Mo. 

8.  Minnie  F.  Dinsmore',  b.  Sept.  30,  1866;  m.  Ambrose  E.  Findley, 

Dec.  4, 1889 ;  res.  Springfield,  Mo. 

195.  Elizabeth  Jane  Dinsmore",  b.  June  7, 1824;  d.  Aug.  13, 1834. 

196.  Nancy  Anne  Dinsmore*,  b.  July  1,1826;  m.  1850,  Hon.  William  H. 

Fitzpatrick,  who  d.  Aug.  14, 1890.  He  served  several  terms  in  the 
Legislature  of  Kansas  as  representative  and  senator ;  res.  Topeka, 
Kan.,  where  his  widow  now  resides. 

CHILDREN. 

1.  Thomas  Dinsmore  Fitzpatrick^  res.  Salina,  Kan. 

2.  Margaret  Irenaea  Fitzpatrick',  res.  Topeka,  Kan. 

3.  Robert  Ford  Fitzpatrick',  res.  Arkansas  City,  Kan. 

4.  William  Fitzpatrick',  res.  New  Mexico. 

5.  John  Scott  Fitzpatrick',  res.  on  the  home  farm,  at  Topeka,  Kan. 

6.  Mary  Fitzpatrick',  res.  Topeka,  Kan. 

197.  Bathsheba  Dinsmore",  b.  April  9, 1828;  teacher;  d.  Sept.  14, 1851. 

198.  Moses  Garvine  Dinsmore",  b.  Feb.  7,  1831.    He  was  a  teacher  and 

student,  and  d.  when  a  young  man,  at  the  home  of  his  brother,  Eev. 
Thomas  Hughes  Dinsmore'',  at  Washington,  Iowa,  Aug.  31, 1854. 

199.  Kev.  William  Henry  Dinsmore^  b.  May  31,  1833;  m.  Lizzie  Crosset, 

who  d.  May  12, 1865.  He  m.,  second,  Phebe  Harris,  of  Phillips- 
burg,  N.  J.,  on  Sept.  16, 1867.  He  was  pastor  of  the  Presbyterian 
Church  of  Deerfleld.  N.  J.,  and  d.  May  26, 1877.  His  burial  place 
is  at  Phillipsburg,  N.  J. 

CHILDREN. 

1.  William  Harris  Dinsmore',  b.  May  12, 1868;  res.  Phillipsburg,  N.  J. 

2.  Benjamin  Braddock  Dinsmore',  res.  Phillipsburg,  N.  J. 


DINSMORES    OF    MISSISSIPPI. 

300.  Adam  Dinsmoor'.  He  was  b.  in  Ireland,  and 
bore  the  same  Christian  name  as  one  (No.  6)  of  the  four 
sons  of  John  Dinsmoor^,  the  Scotch  Emigrant  who  set- 
tled in  Bally  wattick,  Ballymoney,  County  Antrim,  Ireland. 
By  his  approximate  age,  he  was  probably  a  grandson  of 
one  of  the  three  (Adam^,  Robert^,  Samuel^)  brothers 
who  remained  in  Ireland.     He  m.  Miss  Jackson. 

CHILDREN. 

201.  David  Dinsmore*. 

202.  Samuel  Dinsmore^. 

203.  James  Dinsmore-  (205),  m.  Miss  McDonald. 

204.  Elizabeth  Dinsmore^,  ra.  Archibald  McDonald. 


BINSMOBES  OF  MISSISSIPPI.  37 


205.  James  Dinsmores  (203),  Adami.  He  came 
from  Ireland ;  m.  Miss  McDonald,  and  he  lived  in  the 
South. 

AMONG  HIS  CHILDREN  WERE: 

206.  James  J.  Dinsmore^,  res.  at  or  near  Falkville,  North  Alabama,  and 

has  a  family. 

207.  Nancy  Dinsmore',  m.  Mr.  Wall ;  res.  Avoca,  Ala. 

208.  Andrew  McDonald  Dinsmore'  (209),  b.  1808;  res.  Noxubee  Co.,  Miss, 

209.  Andrew  McDonald  Dinsmores  (208),  James2, 
Adami.  He  was  b.  April,  1808.  Removed  to  Noxubee 
Co.,  Miss.,  about  1846,  from  North  Alabama.  He  m. 
Minerva  Barton  Beauchamp,  who  d.  March,  1888,  in  that 
state.  He  is  still  living,  in  vigorous  health,  and  is  an 
officer  in  the  Presbyterian  Church  in  Macon,  Miss. 

CHILD. 

210.  James  Augustus  Dinsmore*,  b.  Jan.  16, 1852 ;  m. 

CHILDREN. 

1.  Andrew  McDonald  Dinsmore\ 

2.  Emma  Dinsmore^. 

3.  Gardiner  S.  Dinsmore'^. 

4.  J.  A.  Dinsmore^ 

5.  William  Dinsmore^. 

211.  John  Kobert  Dinsmore''  (212),  b.  Jan.  13, 1855;  res.  Macon,  Miss. 

212.  John  Robert  Dinsmore*,  Andrew  McDonald^, 
James^,  Adam^.  He  was  b.  near  Macon,  Miss.,  Jan.  18, 
1855;  graduated  at  Cumberland  University,  Lebanon, 
Tenn.,  in  June,  1876,  completing  his  course  with  honor, 
and  is,  in  1890,  a  successful  lawyer  in  Macon,  Miss.  He 
was  a  candidate  for  nomination  to  the  Mississippi  Leg- 
islature before  he  was  twenty-three  years  of  age,  but  was 
defeated.  He  served  as  Mayor  of  Macon  for  six  suc- 
cessive years,  when  he  was  succeeded  by  his  brother-in- 
law,  Hon.  A.  T.  Dent.  He  is  popular  and  supported 
by  all  classes.  He  takes  an  active  part  in  politics,  and  is 
Chairman  of  the  Executive  Committee  of  the  Fourth 
Mississippi  Congressional  District.  He  is  conservative 
and  firm  in  his  views,  and  has  the  confidence  of  the  people. 
He  is  a  deacon  in  the  Presbyterian  Church  of  which  his 
father  has  been  an  elder  for  over  forty  years.  He  is  six 
feet  and  one  inch  in  height,  and  weighs  over  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  pounds.  He  m.  Aphintella,  daughter  of 
William  Dent,  in  Dec.  1884. 

CHILD. 

213.    Mary  Witherspoon  Dinsmore",  b.  January ,  1888. 


38  AT   THE    OLD   HOME. 

A   VISIT  TO  THE  OLD  DINSMORE  HOME  TS 
IRELAND,    JULY   9,    1889. 

This  brief  sketch  will  preserve,  it  is  hoped,  for  all  time 
the  place  of  habitation  of  the  Dinsmore  family  in  the 
Emerald  Isle,  which  had  not  been  located  and  was  entirely- 
unknown  to  most  of  the  members  of  the  family  in  the 
United  States  until  my  investigations  revealed  and  estab- 
lished it. 

It  had  been  my  great  desire  to  visit  the  old  home  of  the 
early  Dinsmoors,  the  abode  for  many  generations  of  their 
descendants,  whose  history  has  been  here  given.  John 
Dinsmoor2,  the  Scotch  lad  who,  with  cane  and  broad 
bonnet,  "hied  him"  from  Scotland  to  Ireland  and  founded 
the  family  home  at  Ballywattick,  with  his  son,  John 
Dinsmoor^,  who  came  to  New  Hampshire,  were  my  an- 
cestors. All  the  other  Dinsmoors  there,  in  their  several 
generations,  were,  in  different  degrees  of  consanguinity, 
my  relatives. 

Business  of  another  nature  called  me  to  Ballymoney, 
and  so  I  gladly  embraced  the  opportunity  of  visiting  one 
of  its  town-lands,  Ballywattick,  two  miles  away.  With 
Mr.  William  Hunter,  an  occupant  of  part  of  a  Dins- 
moor  homestead,  I  had  enjoyed  a  pleasant  correspond- 
ence for  several  years.  An  Irish  jaunting-car,  on  the 
afternoon  of  the  day  of  my  arrival,  bore  me  rapidly  over 
the  smooth,  hard  road  to  the  home  of  Mr.  Hunter, 
where  he,  his  amiable  wife  and  interesting  family,  gave 
me  the  cheeriest  welcome.  There  I  passed  the  night. 
They  live  pleasantly  and  cosily  in  a  well  constructed, 
good-sized  stone  house,  built  upon  a  portion  of  the  home- 
stead of  liobert  Dinsmore*,  the  writer  of  the  historic 
letter  of  1794. 

The  day  was  misty,  rainy,  chilly.  An  open  fire  glowed 
brightly  upon  the  hearthstones.  A  canary  bird,  forget- 
ting its  prison  bars  and  not  to  be  outdone  in  evidences  of 
hospitality,  poured  forth  its  welcome  in  sharp,  sweet  notes 
of  song.  Through  the  windows  I  looked  forth  upon  fields 
familiar  to,  and  trodden  by,  my  ancestors  two  hundred 
and  more  years  ago,  and  which  had  been  sacred  to  their 
descendants  almost  to  the  present  year.  A  lane,  lined  on 
either  side  with  hedges,  led  us  to  the  former  home  of 


HOME    OF   THE   LETTER    WHITER.         39 

Robert  Dinsmorc*,  the  letter  writer.  It  is  a  stone  house 
of  comfortable  size  and  dimensions,  with  a  roof  of  thatch. 
In  its  day  it  was  one  of  the  most  pretentious  in  the 
neighborhood.  It  is  now  unoccupied.  Here  it  was  that 
Robert  Dinsmore  lived,  at  seventy-four  years  of  age,  in 
1794,  when  he  wrote  his  letter,  since  famous,  and  now 
historic,  to  his  relative,  John  Dinsmoor,  of  Windham,  N. 
H.  (see  p.  10),  giving  the  genealogy  and  early  history  of 
the  family. 

That  venerable  man  little  knew  the  boon  he  was  con- 
ferring upon  all  of  his  lineage  who  were  to  succeed  him, 
by  the  knowledge  which  he  imparted  in  that  epistle.  He 
never  dreamed  that  his  letter  would  become  historic,  and 
that  he  was  the  earliest  historian  of  his  family,  and  had 
made  possible  the  tracing  of  the  annals  of  his  race  into 
the  dim  past.  He  little  thought  that  a  century  later  dis- 
tant kinsmen  "from  beyond  seas"  would  seek  out  the  old 
home,  and  his  abode,  as  the  place  where  lived  a  bene- 
factor.    Yet  such  was  to  be  the  case. 

His  house  stands  alone.  The  fires  have  gone  out  upon 
its  ancient  hearthstones.  The  calm  faces  of  parents,  dis- 
ciplined and  strengthened  by  life's  cares,  sufferings,  and 
toils ;  the  joyous  ones  of  children,  with  laughing,  gleeful 
eyes,  which  once  appeared  at  those  windows,  are  no  longer 
there.  All  ai-e  gone,  and  forever !  An  air  of  desolation, 
forsakenness,  and  gloom  prevades  the  ancient  home  and 
its  immediate  surroundings.  The  beating  storms,  the 
buffeting  winds  and  tempests,  shall  assail  no  more  forever 
the  Dinsmores  at  that  old  homestead ! 

Never  again  will  the  old  days  come. 


Memories?    Fold  them  up  — 
Lay  them  sacred  by; 
What  avails  it  to  dream  of  the  past? 

The  home  of  Samuel  Dinsmore ^  (son  of  Robert,  the 
letter  writer)  and  of  his  son,  John  Dinsmore'',  now  of 
Bloomington,  Ind.,  was  only  a  few  rods  away.  William 
Dinsmore,  called  "Gentle  Willie,"  a  relative,  lived  close 
at  hand,  and  his  home  is  occupied  by  William  Knox. 
The  buildings  are  all  of  stone,  very  comfortable,  and  sur- 
rounded by  tall  and  shapely  trees,  which  furnish  abundant 


40      MOTTO   OF  THE  DINSMORE  FAMILY. 

shade.  A  lane,  hedge  lined,  leads  through  pleasant  fields 
from  highway  to  highway.  The  fields  are  well  cultivated, 
the  country  atti'active  and  inviting  to  the  view.  A  gen- 
eral look  of  thriftiness  and  good  cheer  prevails.  The 
roads,  like  most  of  those  in  Great  Britain,  are  excellent, 
hard  and  very  smooth.  I  bade  farewell  to  the  first  home 
of  the  Dinsraores  in  Ireland  and  went  to  Ballymoney. 
In  the  cemetery  there  is  their  quiet  place  of  rest.  There 
were  the  graves  of  Robert  Dinsmore*,  the  letter  writer, 
of  Samuel'',  his  son,  of  Andrew^  and  William  Dinsmore^. 
I  took  a  hurried  view  of  the  small,  yet  historic,  town 
where  had  lived  another  of  my  ancestors.  Justice  James 
McKeen,  who  emigrated  to  Londonderry,  N.  H.,  in  1719. 
The  emigrating  sons  and  daughters,  and  their  descend- 
ants, of  the  little  moorland  town  of  Ballymoney  have  had 
a  wide  influence  in  the  Scotch-American  settlements  in 
the  United  States. 

MOTTO    OF    THE    DIXSMORE    FAMILY. 

The  alleged  motto  of  the  Dinsmore  Family  is  expres- 
sive and  suggestive :  "  Spes  Anchora  Tuta."  A  free  trans- 
lation is :    "  HoDe  is  a  safe  anchor." 


Facts  relating  to  Emigration  to  Londonderry,  iV.  ^, 
in  1719,  wherein  Mention  is  made  of  the  first  Scotch 
Settlers  there  and  some  of  their  Descendants. 

STATEMENT  OF  ELIZABETH  DINSMOORg, 

William^,  Robert*,  John^,  John^,  Laird  Dinsmoori. 
She  was  a  sister  of  the  elder  Governor  Samuel  Dins- 
moor«,  of  New  Hampshire.  She  was  b.  in  Windham,  X. 
H.,  December,  1778;  m.  in  1801,  Samuel  Thom,  of 
Windham,  N.  H.;  removed  to  Denmark,  Iowa,  where  she 
d.  Jan.  17,  1868,  aged  ninety  years.  Her  mental  powers 
were  excellent,  and  she  delighted  in  reading  and  writing. 
She  left  numerous  articles  in  manuscript.  Her  grand- 
mother was  Janet  McKeen,  a  daughter  of  Justice  James 
McKeen,  of  Londonderry,  N.  IL,  who  came,  when  young. 


THE   EMIGBATION   OF  1719.  41 

with  her  father's  family  from  Ireland,  married  Emigrant 
John  Cochran,  and  lived  in  Windham,  N.  H.  In  her  old 
age  she  recounted  the  incidents  of  the  emigration  to  her 
granddaughter,  Elizabeth  Dinsmore^,  about  1785,  who 
was  not  then  ten  years  of  age.  It  made  a  vivid  impres- 
sion on  the  mind  of  her  youthful  listener,  who  wrote  out 
the  account,  which  is  preserved  among  her  manuscripts, 
now  in  the  possession  of  her  great-granddaughter,  Mrs. 
Eliza  T.  Fox,  of  Seneca,  Kan.  Thus,  after  one  hundred 
and  seventy-two  years  since  the  emigration,  this  account, 
never  before  in  print,  is  presented  to  the  public. 

Mrs.  Elizabeth  (Dinsmore^)  Thorn  says:  "My  grand- 
mother was  nearly  half  a  day  relating  the  circumstances 
of  their  emigration  and  settlement  in  this  country.  I  was 
between  seven  and  eight  years  old  at  the  time,  and  lis- 
tened with  deep  intei'est  to  her  narrative.  My  grand- 
mother said  she  was  a  native  of  the  North  of  Ireland, 
which  was  settled  from  Scotland.  Her  forefathers  were 
among  the  first  who  renounced  Popery,  and  were  much 
persecuted  by  the  Catholics.  Her  father,  James  McKeen, 
resolved  to  emigrate  to  America,  where  he  could  peace- 
fully enjoy  the  religion  of  his  choice.  Having  disposed 
of  his  property,  he  embarked  with  his  preacher,  Rev. 
James  McGregor,  and  sixteen  others,  who  had  bound 
themselves  to  him  for  a  certain  time  to  pay  for  their 
passage  to  America. 

"It  was  Sunday  when  they  reached  Boston,  and  the 
pious  emigrants  celebrated  the  joyful  occasion  by  singing 
psalms  of  praise  to  that  God  who  had  brought  them  in 
safety  to  the  shores  of  the  New  World.  Their  fervent 
piety  secured  them  a  warm  reception  among  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Boston,  but  after  a  brief  stay  at  that  place,  they 
hired  hunters  to  guide  them  through  the  wilderness  to 
Beaver  Pond,  in  Nutfield,  afterward  called  London- 
derry. There  they  pitched  their  tents  and  had  religious 
services.  My  grandmother,  though  only  ten  years  old  at 
that  time,  could  remember  the  text  and  much  of  the  dis- 
course. Her  memory  was  excellent,  and  she  had  the  deep 
religious  feeling  of  the  Puritans  of  those  times." 

The  fact  that  James  McKeen,  who  was  a  man  of  means, 
had  advanced  the  passage  money  for  his  neighbors  and 


42  A    CLOSE  BELATIONSUIP. 

kinsmen  who  \rere  less  successful  than  himself,  to  my 
knowledge,  has  never  before  been  promulgated,  and  as  it 
was  his  own  daughter  who  made  the  statement,  herself  an 
emigrant,  and  familiar  with  all  the  circumstances  of  the 
emigration  —  it  is  not  to  be  questioned. 

The  first  sixteen  settlers  (with  their  families)  of  Lon- 
donderry, N.  H.,  were  all  of  Scotch  blood.  They  were  as 
follows:  James  McKeen,  John  Barnet,  Archibald  Clen- 
denin,  John  Mitchell,  James  Starrett,  James  Anderson, 
Randall  Alexander,  James  Gregg,  James  Clark,  James 
Nesmith,  Allen  Anderson,  Robert  Weir,  John  Morison, 
Samuel  Allison,  Thomas  Steele,  John  Stuart.  According 
to  Parker's  History  of  Londonderry,  N.  H.,  "James 
McKeen  was  one  of  the  principal  originators  of  the 
enterprise  "  and  was  "  the  patriarch  of  the  colony." 

The  relationship  between  those  early  settlers  was  very 
near,  and  their  intimacy  of  the  closest  kind,  as  will  be  seen 
from  the  following  facts :  Among  them  James  McKeen 
had  one,  and  probably  two  brothers-in-law,  with  their 
families.  His  first  wife  was  Janet  Cochran,  and  his 
daughter,  Janet,  m.  John  Cochran,  of  Windham,  N.  H. 
Another  daughter,  Elizabeth,  m.  James  Xesmith,  in 
Ireland,  who  was  one  of  the  famous  sixteen  settlers. 
Mr.  McKeen  lived  at  one  time  in  Ballymoney,  County 
Antrim,  Ireland,  only  two  miles  from  the  homes  of  the 
Dinsmoors,  with  whom  he  must  have  been  acquainted. 

In  Ireland  Mr.  McKeen  m.  second,  Annis  Cargil. 
Rev.  James  McGregor,  of  Aghadowey,  County  of  Lon- 
donderry, Ireland,  m.  her  sister,  Marion  Cargil,  and  came 
to  Londonderry,  N.  H.,  and  was  the  first  minister  there. 

Capt.  James  Gregg,  one  of  the  sixteen  settlers,  m. 
Janet  Cargil,  probably  a  sister  of  the  others.  Thomas 
Steele  m.  in  Ireland,  ^lartha  Morison,  a  sister  of  John 
Morison,  which  made  those  two  brothers-in-law.  Samuel 
Allison  m.  in  Ireland,  Katherine  Steele,  a  supposed  sister 
of  Thomas  Steele,  which  linked  them  together.  Two 
others  of  the  sixteen,  Allen  and  James  Anderson,  were 
brothers. 

Rev.  James  McGregor,  and  most,  if  not  all,  of  the  six- 
teen first  emigrants,  were  from  the  parish  of  Aghadowey, 
County  of  Londonderry,  Ireland,  a  description  and  brief 
history  of  which  has  already  been  given.  (See  pp.  25-36.) 


OTHERS  JOIN  THEM.  4S 

James  Morison,  a  brother  of  John,  and  my  ancestor ; 
Robert  Armstrong,  ancestor  of  the  Armstrongs  of 
Windham,  N.  H.,  and  of  George  W.  Armstrong,  Esq., 
a  prominent  business  gentleman  of  Boston,  Mass.;  and 
John  Bell, — quickly  joined  the  colony  mentioned  before. 
According  to  a  family  tradition,  which  is  accepted  as 
truth,  the  earliest  known  ancestor  of  the  Bells  of  New 
Plampshire  was  Matthew  Bell,  who  was  born  at  Kirk 
Connell,  in  Scotland.  (There  are  seven  places  of  this 
name  in  Scotland,  and  no  identification  has  been  made.) 
His  son,  John  Bell,  was  born  in  Ballymoney,  County  of 
Antrim,  Ireland,  in  1678 ;  m.  Elizabeth,  daughter  of  John 
and  Rachel  (Nelson)  Todd  ;  came  to  Londonderry,  N. 
H.,  in  1720,  where  he  died  July  8,  1743,  leaving  a  numer- 
ous posterity. 

This  work  will  close  with  a  poem  of  rare  merit,  which 
is  particularly  appropriate,  as  it  relates  to  Scotch,  or 
Scotch-Irish,  achievement,  suffering,  long  endurance  amid 
famine,  pestilence,  and  death,  and  final  gloi'ious  triumph. 
The  ancestors  of  many  who  read  this  volume  were  on  the 
side  of  William,  in  the  famous  struggle  between  James 
the  Second  and  William,  Prince  of  Orange,  for  the  Eng- 
lish throne.  Many  of  them  were  in  the  besieged  City  of 
Londonderry,  Ireland,  endured  the  horrors,  witnessed  and 
were  thrilled  with  the  great  joy  of  final  victory,  all  of 
which  the  great  English  historian,  Macaulay,  describes 
with  graphic  power  in  his  History  of  England.  The 
author  of  this  poem  has,  with  rare  power,  depicted  the 
"City  of  the  Foyle,"  as  it  was  and  as  it  remains  to-day. 
The  main  events  of  the  celebrated  siege,  when  the  gates 
of  the  city  were  closed  in  the  face  of  an  insolent  foe  by  a 
band  of  noble  "  Apprentice  Boys";  the  tierce  attacks  of 
the  enemy,  the  bursting  of  the  boom  which  the  foe 
had  stretched  across  the  Foyle  to  prevent  ships  loaded 
with  provisions  from  succoring  the  starving  city,  are  re- 
hearsed in  an  elevated  and  spirited  manner.  The  writer 
is  a  descendant  of  Capt.  James  Gregg,  who  was  born  in 
Ayrshire,  Scotland,  and,  with  his  parents,  went  to  Ireland 
about  1690,  and  was  one  of  the  first  sixteen  settlers  of 
Londonderry,  N.  H.,  in  1719,  as  previously  stated. 


44  HEROES   OF   THE  SIEOE. 

Although  the  author  of  the  poem  never  visited  London- 
derry, Ireland,  never  trod  its  "  steep,  ascending  streets," 
never  saw  its  "sacred  walls,"  worshipped  in  "the  old 
cathedral  on  the  heights,"  nor  bathed  her  hands  in  the 
flowing  waters  of  the  Foyle,  yet  her  description  of  the 
city  and  all  within  it,  as  well  as  its  surroundings,  are 
wonderfully  accurate,  —  they  are  almost  without  a  flaw. 
The  poem  is  inserted  with  the  hope  that  it  may  afford 
my  readers  as  much  pleasure  and  joy  as  it  has  given  me. 


THE  HEROES   OF   THE   SIEGE   OF  LONDON- 
DERRY, IRELAND,  1688-89. 

By  Miss  Lucinda  Jane  Gregg,  of  Derby,  N.  H. 

There 's  many  a  prouder  citadel,  there 's  many  a  grander  town. 
Among  the  thousand  battle-fields  on  which  the  stars  look  down; 
But  never  place  held  hero  hearts  more  resolute  and  strong 
Than  brave  old  Londonderry,  famed  in  story  and  in  song. 

Hill  of  the  Oaks!  we  see,  unchanged,  thy  sacred  walls  arise: 
Still  up  thy  steep,  ascending  streets  the  ancient  pathway  lies ; 
Still  at  thy  foot  the  river  flows  with  broad,  majestic  sweep, 
And  still  the  grand  cathedral  crowns  thy  narrow  summit  steep. 

No  rock  of  stern  Gibraltar  lifts  its  dark,  defiant  wall ; 
No  fortress  rises  from  the  sea  to  shield  thy  towers  tall ; 
More  glorious  far  than  rock  or  fort  built  up  by  time  or  toil, 
The  Rock  of  Ages  is  thy  trust,  brave  City  of  the  Foyle! 

Flow  on,  historic  river,  sing  the  story  of  the  free ; 

Repeat  it  proudly  to  the  sky  —  go  tell  it  to  the  sea! 

Send  far,  O  sea!  the  thrilling  song  across  Atlantic's  wave, 

And  bid  these  echoing  hills  send  back  the  anthem  of  the  brave. 

The  haughty  foe  came  boldly  up  with  weapons  keen  and  bright; 
Within  those  narrow  walls  each  face  paled  quickly  at  the  sight ; 
One  startling  cry  rang  wildly  up  from  street  to  palace  dome,— 
"The  gates!  the  gates!  close  fast  the  gates!  For  freedom  and  our 
home!" 

Loud  called  a  band  of  hero  lads,  all  resolute  and  bold, 
"  Quick  to  the  guard  house!  Seize  the  keys  away  from  traitor's  hold! " 
Down  to  the  water  gate  they  rushed  where  rolled  the  river  low. 
And  quickly  drew  the  drawbride^e  up  in  face  of  all  the  foe! 


CLOSING    OF   THE    GATES.  45 


The  heavy  gates  swung  grandly  round,  in  triumph,  one  by  one; 
The  great  key  turned  the  massive  bolt,— the  glorious  deed  vras  done! 
Glad  Freedom  vcalked  the  hillside  streets  and  sav?,  adown  the  land, 
The  army  of  a  king  defied  by  that  heroic  band. 

Courageous  citadel!  thy  fate  is  told  with  faltering  breath ; 

Full  well  those  bold  defenders  knew  't  was  victory  or  death ! 

They  looked  their  narrow  fortress  o'er,  reviewed  their  few  strong  men, 

Opened  their  scanty  magazine,  and  pledged  each  other  then. 

One  earnest  prayer  to  Heaven  they  sent,  one  firm  resolve  they  made, 
Then  bound  the  white  badge  on  their  arms  while  burst  the  cannonade ; 
That  sacred  badge  would  lead  them  on  to  conquer  or  to  die. 
For  "  No  surrender  "  thrilled  each  heart  and  flashed  from  every  eye. 

Then  burst  the  dreadful  shot  and  shell,  and  fast  the  fire  came  down; 
The  roaring  of  the  culverin  resounded  through  the  town ; 
The  river  blazed  with  lightning,  and  the  red-hot  cannon  balls 
Thundered  against  the  trembling  gates  and  shook  the  dark  old  walls. 

The  tumult  and  the  terror  of  War's  horrible  alarms 

With  deep  and  dreadful  anguish  filled  that  citadel  in  arms; 

Yet  still  that  glorious  badge  they  wore  through  every  fearful  hour,— 

Still  waved  the  crimson  banner  from  the  high  cathedral  tower. 

Upon  that  crowded  garrison  the  summer's  sun  shone  down. 
And  dread  disease  came  through  the  gates  with  fearful,  fatal  frown; 
Then  frightful  famine  leaped  the  walls  and  shook  his  spectral  shield. 
And  deadly  foes  all  joined  to  make  the  faithful  fortress  yield. 

Ah  !  hushed  was  every  hillside  home,  and  stilled  was  every  song, 
As  paled  the  famished  faces  of  that  starving,  suffering  throng ; 
Wan  skeletons  with  trembling  steps  the  battered  bulwarks  trod, 
And  thousands,  ere  the  summer  waned,  lay  dead  beneath  the  sod. 

Their  holy  altars  and  their  homes,— for  these  they  perilled  all; 
And  still  the  banner  waved  on  high,  still  stood  the  firm  old  wall; 
Still  "  No  surrender  "  thrilled  each  heart  and  nerved  each  dying  liand, 
And  every  home  was  hallowed  by  the  heroism  grand! 

The  old  cathedral  on  the  heights  knew  well  their  wants  and  woes ; 
There,  pleading  prayers  ascended  oft,  sweet  sounds  of  peace  arose, 
While  from  the  roof  the  sounds  of  war  went  booming  loud  and  long; 
There  blazed  the  beacon  light  that  told  the  peril  of  the  throng. 

One  startling  sound  was  echoed  from  the  river  to  the  rock ! 
"  The  ships!  the  ships  are  coming!  yes,  the  fleet  is  in  the  Lough! " 
All  eagerly  the  famished  crowd  climbed  up  the  fortress  wall, 
And  saw  upon  the  happy  tide  the  vessels  rise  and  fall. 


46  VICTOBY  AT  LAST. 


Life!  life  was  in  the  swelling  sails  and  in  the  blissful  breeze ; 

Too  weak,  too  faint  for  rapturous  cheers,  they  dropped  upon  their 

knees; 
Tears  of  thanksgiving  told  their  joy,  but  never  shout  or  song,— 
Ah!  God  had  heard  the  faitliful  prayers  of  that  heroic  throng. 

The  bold  besiegers  on  the  shoi-e  their  batteries  opened  wide; 
Against  the  ships  the  blazing  balls  came  thundering  o'er  the  tide; 
The  starving  crowd  upon  the  walls  saw  life's  last  hope  assailed. 
But  God  was  with  those  gallant  ships,  and  safely  on  they  sailed. 

Wild  rose  the  joy— when  suddenly  one  vessel  ran  aground! 

"The  boom!  the  boom!"  and  shouting  foes  the  perilled  ship  came 

round; 
"Oh!  now  or  never! "  was  the  cry  that  rose  from  livid  lips 
And  hearts  of  agony  that  watched  the  struggle  of  the  ships. 

All  petriiied  with  silent  grief,  amid  the  fearful  strife, 
They  saw  go  down  the  tiembling  tide  their  last  dear  hope  of  life; 
But  God  was  with  those  heroes  still  — the  glorious  ship  sent  baciv 
A  sudden,  fearful,  fiery  charge  across  the  foaming  track. 

One  quick  rebound,  and  she  was  safe!  the  ships  were  seen  to  ride, 
Amid  the  yells  of  furious  foes,  triumphant  o'er  the  tide! 
Eight  onward  toward  the  joyful  town  the  conquering  vessels  passed ; 
'T  was  life!  sweet  life!  't  was  home!  dear  home!  't  was  victory  at  last  I 


Index  of  Dinsmoors-Dinsmores,  and  Others. 


Alexander,  Eandall,  p.  42. 
Allison,  Samuel,  p.  42. 
Anderson,  James,  p.  42. 
Anderson,  Allen,  p.  42. 
Alter,   Hon.   Joseph,   and  Descen- 
dants, p.  32. 
Armstrong,  George  W.,  p.  43. 
Armstrong,  Roljert,  p.  43. 
Barnet,  John,  p.  42. 
Beer,  Hon.  Thomas,  and  Family,  pp. 

27-28. 
Bell,  John,  p.  43. 
Boyd,  Samuel,  p.  16. 
Cargil,  Annis,  p.  42. 
Clark,  James,  p.  42. 
Clendenin,  Archibald,  p.  42. 
Cochran,  John,  p.  42. 
Collins,  William,  p.  2T. 
Dick,  Quentin,  p.  19. 
Dinsraoor-Dinsmore. 

Adam"',  of  Ballywattick,  Ireland, 
pp.  5, 19. 

Adam',  and  Family,  p.  38. 

Alice  s  p.  8. 

Andrew*,  and  Family,  pp.  22,  23. 

Andrew'',  and  Family,  pp.  15, 16. 

Andrew^,  p.  25. 

Eev.  Andrew  A.o,  and  Family,  pp. 
28,  29. 

Andrew  McDonald'',  p.  37. 

Anne  Alexander',  p.  25. 

Archibald  A.",  p.  35. 

Kev.  Cadford  M.s,  p.  7. 

Catherine  Anne",  p.  27. 

Curran,  p.  8. 

David,  p.  8. 

David  Collins",  p.  28. 

Ehzabeth",  p.  33. 

Elizabeth",  p.  40. 

Elizabeth^  p.  8. 


Dinsmoor-Dinsmore. 

First  Sixteen  Settlers  of  London- 
derry, N.  H.,  p.  42. 

Florence  Amanda',  p.  8. 

Eev.  Francis  B.",  and  Family,  p. 
34. 

"  Gentle  Willie","  p.  16. 

Henry",  and  Family,  pp.  32,  33. 

James*,  and  Family,  of  Pennsylva- 
nia, pp.  19-20. 

James'',  p.  21. 

James  P.,  p.  8. 

Hon.  James^  p.  7. 

James^  of  Kentucky,  p.  7. 

James^,  p.  37. 

James  A.=,  and  Family,  pp.  23-24. 

James  E.  W.<i,  p.  29. 

Jane",  p.  32. 

Jarviss,  p.  8. 

Jenny^  p.  23. 

John2,  the  Scotch  Emigrant,  pp. 
3-4-5. 

Johns,  tjie  Emigrant  to  New 
Hampshire,  pp.  5,  6. 

John=,  of  Pennsylvania,  pp.  20-21. 

John,  and  Family,  of  Blooming- 
ton,  Ind.,  p.  14. 

John  Bell",  p.  7. 

Eev.  John,  p.  8. 

Eev.  John  W^,3,  22. 

Eev.  John  M.",  and  Family,  pp.  35, 
36. 

Hon.  John  E.*,  p.  37. 

Joseph  SJ,  p.  15. 

Laird>,  p.  4. 

Lemuel,  p.  8. 

Margaret'',  p.  13. 

Margaret",  p.  14. 

Margaret  Curry«,  p.  32. 

Margaret  P.=,  p.  33. 


48 


INDEX. 


Dinsmoor-Dinsmore. 

Martha',  p.  24. 

Matilda  H.,  p.  16. 

Molly»,  p.  13. 

Moses^  and  Family,  p.  34. 

Nancy=,  p.  33. 

Nancy  Amanda",  p.  36. 

Kachel",  pp.  16, 17. 

Kobert^  of  Bally wattick,  Ireland, 
pp.  5-9. 

Robert*,  of  Kew  Hampshire,  pp. 
C-9. 

Kobert*,  of  Pennsylvania,  and  De- 
scendants, p.  27. 

Kobert*,   "The    Letter    Writer," 
pp.  9-13. 

Eobert",  "  Rustic  Bard,"  p.  6. 

Eobert%  p.  31. 

Robert  CaldwelF,  and  Family,  p. 
26. 

Robert  Scott',  p.  31. 

Rev.  Robert  Scott",  p.  34. 

Samuel",  of  Bally  wattick,  Ireland, 
p.  5. 

Samuel<>,  p.  13. 

Samuel'",  p.  26. 

Gov.  Samuel^  p.  7. 

Col.  Silas«,  p.  6. 

Tabitha  Mary",  p.  27. 

Theophilus  W',  p.  15. 

Thomas'',  and  Family,  p.  33. 

Thomas  A.  W.',  p.  7. 

Rev.  Thomas  H.«,  and  Family ,p.35. 

Prof.  Thomas  H.',  p.  35. 

William^    of    Ballywattick,   Ire- 
land, p.  13. 

William",  of    Pennsylvania,"  and 
Family,  pp.  21-22. 

William  B.',  p.  8. 

Rev.  William  H.«,  and  Family,  p. 
36. 
Donnell,  Hugh,  and  Family,  p.  31. 
Fitzpatrick,  Hon.  William  H.,  and 

Family,  p.  36. 
Fox,  Eliza  T.,  p.  41. 
Gamble,  Peter,  p.  9. 
Garvine,  James,  and  Family,  p.  32. 
Gregg,  Capt.  James,  p.  42. 


Gregg,  Lucinda  Jane,  p.  44. 

Hamilton,  James,  p.  33. 

Hay,  Augustus  Moore,  p.  27. 

Henry,  James,  p.  9. 

Hope,  James,  p.  33. 

Hunter,  John,  and  Family,  pp.  17-19. 

Rev.  Andrew-,  p.  18. 

Margaret',  p.  18. 

William,  of  Ballywattick,  Ireland, 
p.  .38. 

Rev.  William',  p.  17. 
Knox.  William,  p.  39. 
Lawrence,  John,  p.  9. 
Livingstone,  John,  and  Family,  p.  23. 
Love,  John,  p.  9. 
McAbee,  James,  p.  14. 
McGowen,  Alexander,  p.  9. 
McGregor,  Rev.  James,  p.  42. 
Mcllreavy,  Archibald,  and  Family, 

p.  14. 
McKeeu,  James,  pp.  40,  42. 
Mitchell,  Benjamin,  and  Family,  p. 
25. 

David,  and  Family,  p.  26. 

John,  p.  42. 
Morrison,  Jeremiah',  p.  7. 

John,  p.  42. 

Hon.  Leonard  A.,  pp.  7,  30. 
Nesmith,  James,  p.  42. 
Pillsbury,  Hon.  Albert  E.»,  p.  8. 

Josiah  W.,1..  8. 
Pinkertons,  p.  14. 
Reid,  Thomas,  p.  9. 
Riddle,  Charles,  p.  14. 
Scott,  Moses,  p.  30. 
Small.  Robert,  p.  14. 

The  Family  of,  p.  16. 
Starrett,  James,  p  42. 
Steele,  Thomas,  p.  42. 
Stewart,  Margaret  A.,  p.  30. 
Stuart,  John,  p.  42. 
Templeton,  Allen,  p.  9. 
Thoni,  Samuel  p.  40. 
Todd,  John,  p.  43. 
Weir,  Robert,  p.  42. 
Wells,  Abrani,  and  Family,  pp.  18-19. 
Willock,  William,  and  Family,  p.  33. 
Wolff,  Rev.  A.  I'.,  p.  31. 


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