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lO'-hS.
HARVARD
COLLEGE
LIBRARY
AN ACCOUNT
OP TUB
Bi0(o^etie0 ot fbt ^oxtufsnt^t
IN THE INTERIOR OF
ANGOLA AND MOZAMBIQUE.
FROM ORIOINAI. MANUSCRIPTS,
BY T. E. BOWDICH, Esq.
TO WHICH IS ADDED,
A NOTE BY THE AUTHOR,
ON A GEOGRAPHICAL ERROR OF MUNGO PARK,
IN UIS I.AST JOURNAL INTO THE INTERIOR OF kVOUCk,
. Honnon :
PRINTED FOR JOHN BOOTH, DUKE STREET,
PORTLAND PLACE.
1824.
/\j.\^10HS". X/
• ^'
MMtVARP COLLEGE LIERA).^
CWNT OF SANTA (l;la.:..
COLLECT U.S
eiFT OF
»Hh K ft1£T30N, Jr.
^9^X4/
Howlettand Bririimer, Printers,
10« Frith Street, SohOi
ADVERTISEMENT
A PRELIMINARY remark has been thought requisite
respecting this volume, which might be deemed posthumous,
from the time la which it makes its appearance, whereas it
was nearly ready for publication in the Summer of last
year. Before Mr. Bowdich quitted France to proceed on
his third, and, as it has proved, most unfortunate expe-
dition, he applied to the African Association for pecuniary
aid, which was cheerfully granted him. At Vienna, Paris,
and Lisbon, the activity and spirit of curiosity that always
governed him, enabled him to collect, from the most authentic
sources, the materials which furnish the volume ; and, consi-
dering them of importance^ they were forwarded to the As-
sociation, in token of his gratitude for their kindness. By
the Association they were given to the Publisher, who sent a
portion of the manuscript immediately to the press ; but the
Tables of Exports and Imports being in the Portuguese lan-
guage, it was difficult to find a translator, and the difficulty
was only surmounted a week or two before the melancholy
intelligence arrived of the death of the enterprising Editor.
11 ADVERTISEMENT.
To this circumstance has the delay been solely owing. The
value of the work must be decided upon by the public.
The Narrative, however, it is prestimed, will not be found
uninteresting ; great pains were taken by Mr. Bowdich with
the Maps, which, as far as they go, are probably the best
extant ; and the Tables cannot fail of being acceptable to
all those who are desirous of information of that nature.
The Publisher thinks it becoming to add, that the family
of Mr. Bowdich have no interest whatever in the sale of the
work : whether the result be profit or loss, it will concerD
himself only, the property being exclusively his own.
Duke Street, Portland Place,
May, 1824.
A HUP or THIS COAST ai
HARVARD
COLLEGE
LIBRARY
MEMOIR, &c.
THE Portuguese settlements in Africa,
from their antiquity, extent, and influence,
have long excited the anxious curiosity of
men of letters, no less than of philan-
thropists ; while the latter wished to pos-
sess information that might enable them to
promote the moral improvement of a large
portion of the great family of mankind,
hitherto concealed from the knowledge of
the rest of the world ; the former, in addition
to that object, were desirous of enlarging
the boundaries of science. From' the
2 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
history of discoveries already made, and
from the traces of Portuguese stations,
reported to travellers, in the inland parts
of the continent, it appeared evident that
a map of the positions of those settlements,
enlarged by such local intelligence, as
the residents might have obtained in their
trading journeys, and commercial inter-
course with the countries still more re-
mote, vrould materially contribute towards
filling up the great blank in the geography
of Western Africa. At all events, it was
obvious that such a map would prove of
essential service to those engaged in ex-
ploring this part of the globe, whether
private persons or public associations.
But whilst other nations with a generous
regard to the advancement of science, and
a feeling concern for the civilization of
Africa, freely published all the materials
which they possessed, in illustration of this
CONGO, ANGOLA^ AN13 BEKGUELA. 3
great object of mquiry^ and; at the same >
time ex^erted their constant efibrts to^in^'
crease thetn ibr universal benefit, the go-
vernment best qualified: to assist thdirrviewB^ i
continued to ^pursue its selfish ^system of
policy, by keeping locked up those valn^.
able stores of information, the publicatioa
of which .would have settled many doubtful
questions in geography, and lessened the.
difficulties of enteiprising teavellers. AUke
insensible to the impulse' of benevolence
and the interests, of learning, this state>
refused to make known particulars^ Iromj
the concealment of which it cofuld derive
no advantage, and the disclosure of/ which
wotild even have reflected honour upon,
the national character. At length, what the
government had so long declined doing, the
good sense of scMne of the educated Por-
tuguese^ > has partly accomplished, and the
late political changes having had the effect
4 COAST AND INTERIOR- OF
of throwing open the national archives, it
is to be hoped that Portugal will soon be
brought not only to contribute to, but to
take an active part in the improvement and.
civilization of that great continent, where
for centuries it has held so many ijnpor-
tant possessions.
In the course of my incessant resiearches
for new information, respecting the geo-
graphy and state of Africa, I fortunately
became indebted to the friendship of M.
d'Almeida, the Portuguese Charge d'Af-
faires at Vienna, for an inestimable acqui-
sition in the acquaintance of Count Sal-
danha de Gama, then one of th Plenipo-
tentiaries to the Congress there from the
court of Lisbon.
This nobleman, who had been . formerly
Govemor General of Angola, met my in-
quiries with all the readiness characteristic
of those who are animated by a love of
CONGO, ANGOI.A9 AND BENGUELA. 5
science, and feel a lively zeal for the ex-
tension of geographical discovery. It is
to Count Saldanha's liberal interest in
my pursuit that I owe the accompanying
map, which till now only existed in manu-
script, and was almost unknown even at
Lisbon. In addition to this favour the
Count imparted much valuable informa-
tion, which has furnished the means of
throwing light upon some points in regard
to the interior of Africa. This map was
constructed in 1790, by Lieutenant Colonel
Furtado, officer of the Engineers, who
was ordered to travel, and survey the coast
from Mayumbo to Cape Negro, by the Ba-
ron de Mossamedes, then Governor Gene-
ral of Angola. While thus employed, the
Colonel was enabled to correct the pre-
vious maps, not only by his own immediate
observations, and by the communications
which he received from the commandants of
6 C6Ad^ AND IVfTERIOR OF
the inland fortresses of Encoche, Ambaca,
I'uBgo, Andbiijo, and Caconda. His survey
tras farther enldl-ged by the discoveries
6f Ddn Jose Mendes, who had been sent
on ati expedition to the south by the same
Governor General, and the rotite of i<rhdS6
iniission is also traced on the present map.
M. Mollien visited a I^btttiguese esta^
blishment, one hundred and eighty miles
iiiland from Bissao, and variotis niins of
fortresses formerly held by them, were de-
scribed to Golberry, as still ^existing in
Bainbouk. Geographers, however^ became
inuch more anxious to ascertain the exact
distahce inland of the establishments in
Congo, Angola, and Benguela, where the
Portuguese had scarcely ever been disturb-
ed,* and of which they are still the peace-
* When the Dutch gained a temporary possession
of St. Panl/in 1640, the Portuguese garrison retired
to the islands above Muchima, and were under the
CONGO^ ANGOLA, AND B£NGU£LA. 7
able and unrivalled possessors. These set-
tlements it is now known extend nearly
three hundred miles from the Congo coast,
about seveji hundred miles in the interior
of Angola, and above two hundred miles
behind Benguela.
The chorographical information obtained
by travellers during their excursions through
a country, and their transit from one place
to another, loses a great portion of its value,
in point of perspicuity and utility, unless
it be carefully reduced to a map ; and it
must be allowed also, that wherq such a
delineation is made with accuracy, a verbal
description of the same route becomes un-
necessary and tiresome. The detailed na-
necessity of drawing all their supplies from the interior ;
the enemy having occupied Esandeira^ an island at the
month of the Coanza. The Portuguese squadron which
retook St. Paul^ entered the harbour unexpectedly by
the Bar of Curimba.
8 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
ture of the map, which accompanies this
iiketch, leaves me, therefore, but h'ttle to
add to the memoir.
The Portuguese force at Loando*, ac-
cording to Count Saldanha's account, was
always kept up, even when their settlements
on the eastern coast, were almost wholly
neglected.
This military establishment was composed
of one regiment of the line, one thousand
strong, and three hundred cavalry who
were mounted in the Brazils, and two hun-
dred artillery. St. Paul contains about
eight thousand inhabitants, who now reside
for the most part in the lower town. The
garrison of Benguela, consists of one
hundred infantry and fifty artillery, together
with troops of the line. Each of the forts
^ The little island of Loando, which varies from one
hundred to three hundred yards in breadth, is described
as being equally salubrious and picturesque.
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 9
of Massang^no, Encoche, and Caconda,
has one hundred infantry; and the other
forts sixty, all recruited among the natives,
but commanded by Portuguese officers of
the line. Besides these regular troops, a
militia of the inhabitants of the neighbour-
hood, armed by the government and offi-
cered, by Portuguese residents, is kept up
at each establishment, both in the interior
and on the coast. With this militia, which
amounts altogether to several thousands,
conducted on such occasions by officers of
the line, and other contingencies of native
force, which the different states are bound
to furnish, the government carries on what-
ever wars it may be involved in against the
Cassanges and other nations, who frequently
bring into the hostile field armies of eigh-
teen thousand men.
The commercial establishments, called
Fairs, or Feiras, two of which are seven
10 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
hundred miles within land, are under the
superintendance of the Portuguese resi-
dent, who is stationed there for the purpose
of keeping up a continual correspondence
with the Governor General, and to prevent
his countrymen, who frequent these markets
periodically, from abusing the confidence
of the natives, or offending them by any
other injury.
The most healthy of all the Portuguese
settlements is Caconda, which is situated
in the interior, in latitude 14 degrees 35
nunutes, south ; and about 17 degrees east
" of Greenwich. Its distance from Benguela
is twenty days* journey, but those invalids
who can bear the fatigue of travelling, are
almost certain of a recovery, after their
arrival and residing there some time. The
country is elevated, the air pure and com-
paratively cool, and the surrounding scenery
rich and diversified; so that all travellers
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 11
who have been there, concur in describing
it as the most delightful spot they have
either seen or heard of throughout Western
Africa. The other settlements are all of
them, more or less, unhealthy; the raini)
being so very irregular, that sometimes they
do not occur for the dpace of three years.
t inade several inquiries about St Sal^
vador, the position of which is accurately
laid down in the map. In answer to my
que&tioiis Count Saldanha informed me that
it had long since been found unnecessary
to keep up a military force there ; that
thie natives chose rather to visit the markets
of Encoche and Loando, and that from the
aristocratical and divided character of the
Congo government, the Portuguese had no
reason to apprehend a resistance to their
authority, since all parties appealed to them
as the arbiter of their diflferences. But
though a garrison was no longer wanted at
12 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
St Salvador, the establishment of Catholic
missionaries is still maintained, and occa-
sionally recruited from Italy* Though
these missionaries, according to the descrip-
tion of them given by Count Saldanha, are
in general a very ignorant set of men, they
possess so much influence over the King
and the chiefs, as to be entrusted with the
education of their sons and nephews, who
for that purpose are sent to the convent of
St, Paul- But in the time of the Count's
administration, several of these youths were
sent to Brazil for instruction, and the con-
sequence was, that on their return, they
proved more useful to the country, and more
attached to the Portuguese interests, than
those natives who were brought up under
the resident missionaries. A son of the
King of Dahomey, which monarch has a
Portuguese mulatto for his secretary, was
also sent to Count Saldanha's brother when
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA, 13
governor of Bahia, for education. St, Sal-
vador has either gone very much to decay,
or, as is more probable, its real importance
has been considerably over-rated ; notwith-
standing which there are still two churches
in the town, one belonging to the missiona-
ries, and another which was built by the
Jesuits before the suppression of that order.
Other missionary stations, as the Carme-
lite and Capuchin, will be observed in the
map. About twenty years ago, the Portu-
guese Bishop of St. Paul, who now lives, as
Count Saldanha thinks, in one of the Azores,
having had a dispute with the Governor
General, made a pretence of visiting St.
Salvador.
There has never been any direct com-
munication with Mozambique, and the first
attempt to open one was made during the
government of Count Saldanha. M. da
Costa, a respectable Portuguese merchant.
14 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
vfho fonnerljr commanded the militia in
idbe interior, having retired from some dis-
gust, went and established himself as a
trader in Cassange., where he lived many
years in perfect harmony with the natives.
To this gentleman, Count SaJdanha, soon
after his arrival at the seat of goverjoment
in 18079 applied for ii^ormation respecting
the practicability of employing an expe-
dition on a route of discovery.
After receiving several communications,
iavourable to the abject he had in view, the
Count authorised M. da Costa to send a
Portuguese mulatto, stationed at one of the
fairs in Cassange, accompanied by native
guides and interpreters, to penetrate? if
possible ito Moolcma, a country hitherto
unknown to Europeans, except by the
report of its populousness and power. The
mulatto, ailer a journey of two months, from
jthe southernmost ;feir in Cassange, reached
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 15
the capital of Mooloaa, where he met with
a Hfeeral reception from the monarch,
Muata Janvo. This Muata, for that it
seems is the titular name, lives at a con-
siderable distance from his wife, who
governs another state, perfectly indepen-
dent of her husband, with whom she only
resides on particular days of the year. The
town of the Mooloaas is laid out in streets,
which are watered daily, and there are
held in it regular markets. A horrid prac-
tice, of sacrificing from fifteen to twenty
negroes every day, prevails both at the
court of the Muafa and that of his wife.
Their neighbours, on the south-east, pay
them tribute in marine salt; and they
described another country as dependent
on them, to which a Portuguese officer had
recently penetrated from the eastern coast,
and died there. ITiis person was M.
Lacerda, colonel of Engineers, and for-
16 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
merly mathematical professor at one of
the militarv schools, who had been nomi-
nated governor of Sena, with the view of
making astronomical observations and aid-
ing discoveries in the interior of Africa on
that side. In his first attempt he had not
been able to advance beyond Tete ; but
in the second he proceeded considerably
farther, when, as already observed, he
fell a victim to his exertions.
The king of the Moolooas would not
suffer the Portuguese envoy to pass through
his territories, for the eastern coast, until
an understanding had been settled between
himself and the governor-general Count
Saldanha, to whom accordingly two formal
and distinct embassies were sent, one from
the Muata and the other from his wife,
bearing separate presents. These Africans
were clothed for the most part in European
manufactures, obtained from the Portu-
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 17
guese settlements in Mosambique ; and
Count Saldanha remarked that they were
not only a much finer race of men than
those in the vicinity of the coast, but that
they were also more civilized and intelli-
gent. They were highly gratified with their
reception, and very much struck with the
military parade and establishments at St.
Paul, but the appearance of the town itself
disappointed them, as th€y had been led to
expect that it was larger than their own
capital, instead of which they found it coa-
siderably smaller. As they requested that
a Portuguese mart or fair might be esta^
blished in Moolooa, similar to those in
Cassange, Count Saldanha was encour
raged to send another expedition with
orders to proceed to Mosambique, there
to embark, and retum by sea to Loanda.
Unfortunately, however, this enlightened
and enterprising governor being soon after-
18 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
wards recalled, and sent on an embassy
to Russia, the project from which so much
benefit might have resulted fell to the
ground, through the negligence of the
Count's successor, and the opposition of
the Cassanges to the proposed commercial
intercourse with the Moolooas.
Of the public spirit of Count Saldanha,
and his qualifications for the situation he
held in Africa, another instance shall here
be related. Don Francis de Souza, who
was governor-general in 1770, first enter^
tained thoughts of working the iron mines^
within the Portuguese government, the
existence of whiqh had long been ascer-
tained. Accordingly a small colony of
miners was procured from Biscay and
Swedeji, and considerable works were
erected; but these were rendered almost
useless by the frequent inundations of the
river Lucala; besides which the greater
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 19
number of the new settlers died, and tiie
others fell into such a state of languor
as incapacitated them for laborious exer*
tions. The mines, therefore, continued to
be neglected until the arrival of Count
Saldanha, who being convinced of the im-
possibility of working them by Europeans,
engaged the Jova, or chief of the district, to
supply native labourers for that purpose ;
and desirous of overcoming the super-
stition of the negroes, who believed, that
the machinery and water-works attached
to the mines were directed by the devil, his
excellency agreed to receive &e tribute
exacted in this quarter, entirely in iron
bars. The tax levied upon every native
province or district within the govemtnait
of St. Paul, and which is applied to the
support of the courts of justice and other
public institutions, is commonly received
in the Portuguese money, that has been put
20 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
into general circulation by the activity
of commerce, there being now no gold dust
in this country. The proposal of the
Count had the desired effect, and one hun-
dred and fifty bars of iron were sent monthly
to St. Paul. The governor as the reward
of their industry, and an encouragement
to perseverance, then permitted those na-
tives of the district who worked the mines,
to transport the surplus of their manufac-
tured iron to the markets of the interior,
free of duty.
It is said that there are mines of copper
in the inland parts of Angola; but the
metal which the Cassanges sell to the Por-
tuguese, comes from the Moolooa. Rich
sulphur mines are found in Benguela, and,
according to report, there are others at
Cassandama. Those of Benguela furnish
all that is sent to the Brazils. Petroleum
is found in abundance at Dande. Ivory>
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 21
wax,- palm and other oils, .&c- are also
exported to the Portuguese settlements in
South America.
Just below St. Philip de Benguela, is a
large salt pond, or rather lake, near the
sea, and not far distant from the sulphur
mines. At irregular periods this lake be-
comes, greatly agitated, as though there
were boiling springs beneath; the water
acquires considerable heat, and the tem-
perature of -the air on its banks suddenly
increases to. such an oppressive degree,
that the inhabitants of the villages are under
the necessity of leaving their houses for a
time, and retiring to some distance. The
rapid evaporation attending this pheno-
menon, gives out an. immense quantity of
salt, which though collected by the natives,
is,:incompfxon with the produce of the other
saline springs, the property of the govern-
, ment ; and, being . a profitable article of
22 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
commerce with the interior, proves an im-
portant source of revenue.
Cab AS A, the ancient capital of Ginga, and
said to contain the tombs of the different
monarchs, is nearly two hundred miles from
the fort of Pungo Andonjo, to which place
M • de Scabra was exiled, when minister
and secretary of state for Portugal, Cabasa
lies nearly on the same meridian with the
islands of Quindonga, of which possession
was taken by a Portuguese force, during
the government of Count Saldanha. These
islands are in the district of Mattemba,
which is separated from the territory of
Ginga by the river Lunini, a branch of
the Coango. The ancient capital of Cabasa,
which thus lies between the Coanzo and
Coango, is reported by the natives to be
four days' journey north of the former, and
three days' journey south of the latter river.
According to the Portuguese traders.
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 23
the Zayre, which in the interior bears the
name of Coango, if traced from the ulti-
mate point of Captain Tuckey's route, will
be found to run along to the frontiers of
Mokoko ; from thence it takes a southerly
direction by Beuduque, a small province,
three days' journey from St. Salvador, and
by Goungo Batta to Mattemba, leaving
Cabasa, as hath been already observed,
three journeys to the south-west. In the
judgment of M. de Silva, a Portuguese
naturalist, who resided by orders of the go-
vernment some years at Embaca, this river
and the Coanza have the same origin, not far
from Mattemba. The natives confirm and
explain this opinion, by asserting that the
two streams have their source in a great lake
on the eastern limits of Cassange, adding
also that there is in that quarter of the
interior, a third river, called by them'Casati,
which they say is still larger than the other
24 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
two. The Coanza has been traced by the
people of the country, to the distance of
fifteen joumies from the Quindango islands,
through the territories of the Moganguelas
and Somghos, two dependencies of Cas-
sange, but farther than this fhey have not
ascertained its course.
The . Hocangas are described by the
Mexicongos, or the Congos of the interior,
as a powerful nation, extending far within
land from the eastern banks of the Coango,
while beyond them are the dominions of
another considiBrable tribe, called by the
name of Amulaca. The Cassanges men-
tion the Cachingas as being their northern
arid the Domges as their eastern neigh-
bours. These last, who are said to main-
tain a trading connexion with the Portu-
guese settlement of Mombaca, on the east-
em coast, have constantly repelled the
Cassanges in every attempt to invade their
»
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 25
territories, and to have defeated them in all
the wars in which they hare been engaged.
The prefix of Jaga of which the Cassanges
are so proudly tenacious, that it forms a
part of the regal title among them, denotes
a race, who were originally nomadic war-
riors; as the contradistinction of Jova,
borne by the chiefs of other African tribes,
indicates a stationary people, who live
chiefly by cultivating their native lands.
In the manuscript volumes, containing
the official dispatches received and trans-
mitted by the Baron Mossamedes, whilst
captain-general of Angola, and which were
entrusted to me by his son, the Count da
Lapa, I met with the journal of Gregorio
Mendes, who commanded an expedition
for making discoveries in the interior of
Angola and Benguela. The route pursued
by Mendes and his associates is laid down
in the accompanying map, and the following
26 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
account of their journey, which was origin-^
ally addressed to a' council of officers at
Benguela, under whose orders they acted,
is of importance in a geographical point
of view.
On the 30ih of September 1785, the ex-
pedition, composed of about thirty Euro-
peans, and one thousand natives, marched
in a south south-east direction to Quipapa,
at which place is a hot and sulphureous
spring, that is drank both by men and
cattle. The next day the party continued
their course to the south-east, and after
winding along the foot of the mountainous
ridge, whose summits opposed their pro-
gress, they encamped in Dombo da Quin-
zamba, intersected by the river Copororo,
beyond which, the country becomes more
elevated. On the second and third of
November, the company halted to supply
themselves with cattle, provisions, and
tJONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 27
vater. On the fourth they resumed their
inarch in a course west south-west for two
leagues, and then arrived at the Labata, or
town of Mani Calunga, situated on the
northern boundary of the state. The two
following days they halted to examine the
environs, at the distance of a league and a
half from the river, which communicates
with a lake of salt water, by means of a
small stream running southward.
The Copororo, when about four leagues
from the sea, flows partly to the nortii-east,
by a large forest, which in some places is a
league in breadth, and capable of excellent
cultivation, were the inhabitants actuated
by a spirit of industry and improvanent
The lands on the banks of this river are
possessed by five native chiefs, the first
next to the coast, is called Mueni Calga,
^that is, "lord of the sea;^ the second
Mueni Mama; the third Capembri; the
28 COAST AND INTERIOR OF .
fourth Mueni. Chela, and the fifth Mueni
Quinzamba, who is nearest to Benguela.
These Princes possess large quantities of
. black cattle, sheep and goats, which though
they refused to sell, they presented very
freely, together with some fine maize and
celery, to the Commander of the expedi-
tion.
On the seventh, the company crossed the
Copororo, and marched three leagues and a
quarter, but in a direction nearly south south
west, to Macayo, close to the bed of aMry
river, near which they found wells, from
whence they obtained a supply of water.
The day following they recommenced their
journey in a hilly country, which exhibited
evident traces of being inhabited by shep-
herds, during the rainy season. After a
toilsome march, continually ascending or
descending, they encamped near a water,
that had been deposited by the rain be-
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 29
'tween stones, in an otherwise arid spot,
wliere they found the remains of negro ca-
bins and some of their flints. The latitude
by observation this day was thirteen degrees
five minutes south. Oh the ninth, they
continued their course along the sides of a
mountainous range, equally rugged and
troublesome, passing in their route a dry
'river, which terminates in a lake near the
sea, but like most of tlie others, commu-
nicating with it only in the rainy season-
In the neighbourhood, however, was found
tolerably good water. The observed lati-
tude this day was thirteen degrees and nine
minutes, south. Near this place, to the
eastward, is an extensive forest, opposite to
which on the south rises a lofty and impas-
sable mountain, so that our travellers were
obliged to take a circuitous course about
it; The neighbourhood is occupied by
insignificant chiefs, who manifested a re-
luctance to all intercourse with strangers.
30 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
Amongst them was a negro, who having fled
thither from the vicinity of Benguela, had
collected around him a number of other fu^
gitive slaves, together with some wandering
savages. Though the commander of the
expedition was unable to apprehend this
negro, he succeeded in getting the Portu-
guese authority acknowledged by the chidT
of some villages, whose inhabitants were
employed in fishing for Zimbos.
While this friendly chief, who was dressed
in cloth, furnished the expedition with
guides ; some of his neighbours attempted
acts of violence, which were easDy re-
pressed. These petty Princes have a head
among them, who is installed into his office
by the Souva of Calunga; but none of
them seem to have any ideas of commerce.
The country in this part is very fertile ; and
all the inhabitants speak a guttural lan-
guage, which was perfectly understood by
(he negroes attached to the expedition.
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 31
Ob the tenth and eleventh, the company
halted, for th^ purpose of opening a com-
munication with the natives, and to bring
them to an amicable intercourse, which
efforts were partially successful. On the
twelfth, they crossed a very difficult moun-
tain, upon the sununit of which was found
fL natural cistern of tolerable water ; and at
Qight they rested on the plain below. The
jnext day, they proceeded in a direction
south west a quarter west, and arrived in
the evening at a place in the latitude of 13
degrees 29 minutes. Here, by the side of a
rock, they discovered wells of excellent
water and some leathern vessels near
caverns, which had obviously been recently
occupied by savages. On the fourteenth,
they continued the same course, along a
more level and equal country, till they came
to the river Dongue Amuchito, which
empties itself not far from the sea into a lake
32 COAST AND INTERIOR OP
of brackish water. Some sweet water how-
ever was found in the wells sunk near the
banks of the river, the sides of which were
covered with wood. The latitude this day
observed was 13 degrees 40 minutes.
The commandant, having reason to ap-
prehend some difficulty in pursuing a south-
erly course, sent the marine officer who
accompanied him, Manoel de Cruz, to as-
certain the practicability of continuing that^
Kne of march ; and the report being un-
favourable,^ the party ascended the moun^
tains on the side ne:st to them, and advanced
more inland. Having consumed all the
provisions that had been collected at Qui-
mena, it was found necessary to send out,
under the command of two native mula|;toes^
two foraging parties composed of seven
hundred negroes, one hundred and twenty
of whom were armed with muskets, to pro*
cure cattle for a fresh supply during the
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGU^LA. 33
rest of the march. On numbering the
people who were with him, the com^an^f
dant found that they amounted to one
thousand and thirty eight, and that ihey
consumed, with their attendants, on an
average, ten oxen and thirty sheep every
day. One of the parties brought with them
a negress, whom they had taken by surprise^
and as the commandant thought she might
prove serviceable, in giving a favourable
report to her countrymen, he caused hertq
be clothed and dismissed. But, though she
had never seen linen before, she; could no^
bring herself to abandon her old habili-*
ments of leather, but carried them off
with her new garments. The party after-;^
wards took a, negro with his wife and
son, who were also clothed, and acted as
guides . to Mezaz, where they were dis'*
missed. From this negro, they learned that
his countrymen have no sort of govern;
84 COAST AITD INTBRIO& OF
ment) but are di^ersed among die moun^
taint, where they live in caves^ and subsist
upon game voA reptiles, and the milk of
thdr flocks ; forbearmg^ frcttn superstitious
noticms, to kill any c£ their cattle^ rather
llian do winch ibey will endure famine to
eirtt^mity; but mh&A driven to necessity
for provisions they make predatory excur^
MOttB into die neighbouring districts border*
kkg ool Quimana. The expedition halted
six 4ayB to collect die foraging parties, and
to wait for the connng up of ei^ty negroes
who had been left behind. Though die
fittttier siK^ceeded in bringing off cattle,
tibey experienced oonsiderable opposition
l^rom the natives.
On the twenty-firsft the march was re^
flamed, and tfiey passed the first small
mountain of Dongue Amucheito. This
iday they were joi&ed by the ^ghty negroes,
and ^icamped near a dry river, ^oalled
CONGO, A^fiPfcA, 45ri? ?i:iarpvELA. 96
Cangala, where they sunk wellg, an^ foiind
tolerable water. At this pUce the marine
officer and sereral of i^ niea fell 9\ck i
notwithstanding which the route W9» pur«*
sued to apoiher dry river^ named Pandagoft^
where they encamped and found brackish
water ; but die wells at tho distance of about
a gun «hot from the banks afforded much
better. The ground, which in this part is
IsTeU is scantily productive of grais^s aj)d
shrubs. r
On the twmxiyr4MTd, the march va» «cmt
tinued, and still in view of the sea, tiU
coinmg to a gr^at mo^nigm, which vm im-
passable l>0th to cattle mid men, the whol^
party passed to ti» ^stward of it, whes
they discorered asiotiisf to the sontb, bdFing
the appearance of a fmtre^, itoe foot o^
jrkack was washed by ithc war>es at i&0 poia*
called Me^az, or the Tables. Not far froni
this last mountain -is an exteosife foretst^
36 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
stretching far inland, and intersected by A
dry river, which near the coast, has channels
of communication with several lakes, some
of salt and others of fresh water. The soil in
these parts appeared to be fertile, and the
scenery was pleasantly diversified with bean-
tiful trees of a dark foliage, affording shel-
ter to great numbers of large and small
birds, which the Moombe negroes from
Quilenga, are said to have been formerly
in the practice of catching, for the purpose
of selling them to the Portuguese in Ben-
guela. '
The latitude of this place, which is called
by the natives, Sinhe Tenh Ban, was ob-
served to be fourteen degrees south. The
inhabitants, like those previously met with,
were scattered among the mountains in
small tribes, but they had a tradition thiat
their ancestors enjoyed something like a
regular government ; and in fact, the peo-
\
CONGO J ANGOLA, AND B£NGU£LA. 37
pie were at this very time about to adopt
the first step to civilization, by electing for
their ruler, a decendant of one of (heir
ancient r chiefs^ Twenty of their cabins
were found towards the norths and. the ex?
peditioa captured fourteen negroes, who,
after being clothed, and instructed a little
m husbandry, were dismissed with spades
^d seeds for cultivation* These people
had no idea of commerce, but subsisted
entirely upon the piilk of their flocks, with
wild fruits and fish* They appeared very
fond of a particular root the property of
which is said to abate thirst, rather than
to satisfy hunger* One of the men was
observed to have a knee buckle in his hair,
entwined with small cord, which, accordmg
to his owu account, he had obtained from
his southern neighbours* .
. The expedition halted here two days and
SL halfi for the purpose of examining the
40 * COAST AND IK*r£RIOR O^
of trees. On the thirtieth^ they penetrated
between the mountains inland, being un4
able to prosecute their route by the sea
side, and after a, fatiguing march of seven
leagues, with continual ascents and de^
scents, they reached a lake, from whence
they saw the Angra do Negro, and here
they Vere obliged to halt the whole of the
fbllowing day. In the valley between the
two mountains, notwithstanding the entu-e
want of water, Ihere were several cabins,
but the inhabitants had fled, and though
the whole of the next day was spent in
endeavouring to bring about an intercourse
with them, the efforts proved ineffectual.
On the first of November, they continued
their rough march along this mountainous
fcountry until evening, when they arrived
at a dry river, where Miguel Pihhero, the
miarine officer >ho had volunteered his ser^
yices oh this: expedition, died. The next
day they halted near a dry lake, in the en-
CONGO, AN^GOLA, AND BENGITELA. 41
i^iroQS of which they procured some tolera-
ble water by sinking wells. The sufferings
which they had endured in their preceding
inarches were rendered peculiarly severe^
by the necessity which they were almost
constantly under of drinking brackish wa^
ten On the third, they marched to a diy
river, through a more level country than
they had hitherto passed, but which exhi-
bited an appearance as if it had been
burnt, and in several parts the soil was of
a lively red colour. From the river of this
place, ran a small branch or rivulet, into a
lake between two mountains on the north
and south. Here the party took an old
blind negress, from whom they learned that
ihe bay was about the distance of a league
from them, and that the natives had lately
killed there some white men. After march-
ing about a league further, they arrived at
a harbour, to which they gave the name of
42 COA8T ANP INT£RIOiR OF
Novo Porto de Mossamedes^ the Captam
GeneraL This is situated in the midst of
the bay or Angra do Negro^ and near the
spot where the expedition encamped, is a
rivulet which runs into the sea. A league
fo the north of the Angra do Negro, is a
river, which from its magnitude and adjoin,
ing lakes is of soikie importance* One of
th^se lakes oql the south is half a! league in
circumference, and ebbs and flows like the
Sea. The grounds about the river are
moist, and capable of excellent cultivation*
According to the Commandant's account,
there was plenty both of stone and wood for
building and supplying the fortress which
was intended to be erected at the Fort of
Mossamedes. The river abounded in iish,
and its banks were inhabited by savages,
who however had fled inland, fearing, as it
should seem, that the expedition was comQ
to avenge the murder that had been com^
COJfGO, AKGOLA5 AlTD BSNGUJCLA. 42
mitted on the crew of a vessel recently:
wrecked upon ihft coasts several relics of
which were found in an adjacent village*
The commandant upon this sent out two
parties along the river that falls into the
Angra do Negro, named Rio das Mortesj
One of the parties captuted a very old and
infirm native, who informed them fiiat the
tribes were governed by chiefs, but were
not numerous^ and that though they had
lafge flocks of sheep they had iew cattle;
TbB same old savage confessed that hk
Countrymen lived principally by plunder,
and he boasted that he had been himself a
very skilful robber in hus earlier days. Tba
other party came very neavly up with 1^
savages, who left two hundred sheep to
occupy the attention a£ their puffisners^
whilst Ihey made o& with the rest Having
halted few days, the expedition marched
on the eighth, taking the old negro fbr
44 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
a guide» and they continued th^ir progress
three days, through a sandy country, making^
the distance of eleven leagues. The Ria
das Mortes, two leagues from the coast, is
choaked by numerous liarge trunks of trees,;
collected in its inundations ; and at eight
leagues distance, two chains of mountains
rise with great regularity, forming peaks
like pyramids, but destitute of defiles or
passages. . In the sandy regipn at their feet
deposits of rain water are' always to- be
found, in natural cisterns overflowing the
^oil. These mountains which are clothed
with a variety of trees, rich in foliage,
terminate in the country called Cobale,
bordering on Oimba, which adjoins the
provinces of Humbe and Chaungrp on the
westem side of the river Cuneni. There is
an immense forest in this part of Cobale,
which furnished the trunks of trees carried
pway by the Rio das Mortes. As the old
CONGO; ANaOLA, ANB BENOUELA. 4&
x^aptive was almost \iseless from his great
age, and it being necessary to find other
^ides, who could direct them to the neigh-
bourhood where they were most likely to
, surprize some of the inhabitants of the port
of Mossamedes, the commandant detached
two exploratory parties, the first by the
Rio das Mortes, and the second by the
dry river terminating in the former, and
in a north-eastern direction, making a feint
of following the latter with the whole body.
The country here is fertile, and with little
cultivation would support an immense
population. The ground was much trod-
den by the elephants, of whom great num«
bers were seen, together with other animals
of a large size. A halt took place until the
ninth, in expectation of the return of the
two parties, and in order to collect provi-
sions, their stock being now exhausted.
Here a corporal. Manual da Guerre, sue-
46 COAST AND IVTiaiOR OF
ceeded in taking 8om6 prisoners, with a
considerable number of sheep and a few
cows. The captives served a^ guides, and
the expedition renewed their march on the
following evening, pursuing the course of
the river communicating with the Rio das
Mortes, which they were informed terrain
joated in Cobale.
Having quitted this river, they encamped,
fifter a march of two days, on another
ymy large one, which empties itself into
'the sea to the north of Angra.
Although they found this part of the
interior exceedingly inountainous, it af^
forded several passages, at the distaiuce of
about twenty-six leagues from the coast,
including windings, or about ^sixteen in a
direct line. In this district, which abounded
in cows and sheep, the negro called Meturo^
who had the chief hand in the inurder
of JosQ da Sousa and Sepulveda, found
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENOUELA. 47
refuge. He took up hi? habitation in a cave,
where he defended himself with great reso-
lution, and finally made his escape by
favour of the labyrinth, abandoning in his
flight not only a lea&em bag, containing
the spoils of his unhappy victims, but alisio
fiix hundred sheep, which proved a very
fortunate acquisition to the captors.
Though the object of the expedition was
the investigation of these remote provinces,
and not the pursuit of criminals, Ihe com-
mandant gave out the latter as his princi-
pal design, conceiving that the impression
thereby produced, would be o£ service ia
saving the lives of such unfortunate ma-
rinei^ as might hereafter be shipwrecked
on this inhospitable coast. The inhabitants
of fliis part of Africa, who are called Me-
muasehagues, live on beef, mutton, game,
mSk, and fruits ; and tiieir cabins are made
of straw, plastered over witii a nuxture of
48 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
.earth and cow-dung/ which^ when hardened
by the sun, proves an effectual security
against the rains. On the twentieth and
twenty-first the expedition was obliged to
halt, their baggage being completely soaked
through. On the twenty-second they marchr
ed in the direction of the country of Bumbo,
bordering partly on Jau, and partly on
Canina or Gonga ; they then crossed the
river which runs to the Rio das Mortes, and
proceeded for two days along its banks, in
which they found crystallized crusts of nitre
among the sand. The water is brackish,
but nourishes as fine cattle and sheep as
any in the world. The latitude here wa?
observed to be 14 degrees 40 minutes,
south. When the prisoners were examined,
whether they had any traditionary accounts
of their ancestors having traded with white
men, they gave sufficient assurance that
no trace of such an intercourse had ever
CONGO^ ANGOLA^ AND BENGUELA. 49
been known among them, nor indeed had
they the least idea of any other clothing
than what was afforded by the skins of
their sheep and cattle. These people are
remarkable for general sjrmmetry of form
and the just proportion of their limbs ; they
wear ornaments in their, hair of sheep skin^:
cut into strange figures^ haying the wool
outside. Their women are very prolific. At
this place, the old negro was set at liberty,
having been first arrayed in cloth; and
he always persisted in asserting that he had
neither himself ever before seen white men,
nor heard of any commerce having beea
maintained with them by others. The na-
tives here all speak a jargon or dialect cor-
responding with that of the savages on the
coast of Auyla, which, however, is easily
intelligible to those who understand the
Bunda language.
On the twenty-third the expedition
£
50 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
reached the country of Bumbo^ to which
Jau is feudatory, and here they crossed the
river that falls into the sea north of Angra.
The commandant, in this part of his journal,
observes, "If I were not afraid of fatiguing
by the extent of my narrative, I might o£fer
many reflections on this region, which has
none like it in climate, fertility^ happy posi-
tion, and agreeable landscapes, in all that
part of western Africa known to the Portu-
guese/^ The country consists of a semi-
cu-cular chain of mountains, running be-
tween the north-east and south-east, to a
considerable extent; and inhabited by a
numerous and hardy population. From
the top of this ridge flowA a river which
washes the base, aud is divided by arXii^cial
cuts, into various branches, which fertilize
extensive fields of ^ millet, maize, com,
beans, massays, and large pls^ntations of
tobacco, which last the natives prepare for
>
C6NOO> AKTGOliA^ AND BENGUELA. ^1
'SDibaking by pressing the leaves between
two^ stones. The soil^ which is naturally
light; is manured With burnt straw. On
this practice of irrigation the conunahdant
niakes the following r^mark^ ^^ The art of
dividio^ the waters. in which the Egyptians
are our oldest ma^tefs^ suggested Itself to
these; negroes firoin the isanle ciircumstances
of their couhtry, biit it is the only instance
of it, which I have met with duriilg rnjr long
residence in Africa* The produce of th6
earth corresponds with the pams taken by
the inhabitants, who begin to sow imme-
diately after reaping, arid have recourse 16
their teseiToir^ for a necessary supi,ly of
water, wKeii there is a defidency of raifc'^
Hiough trees are very abundant^ they are
carefulof them, cutlifag ddwn therai^Uef oneii
for innriedkte use,' and preserving the larger
ones to furnish themselves with planks oc-
casioDfally as a shdter from ' the sun- The
/ .
62 COAST AND INTERIOR OF ^
expedition would have been better supplied
with provisions at this place, had it not been
for the ravages committed by the people c£
an adjoining district, called Catalla, whose
depredations were planned and carried on in
conjunction with the souva of Auyla Ogon^
ga, for though that chief held the sovereignty
over the inhabitants of Jau he could not
endure that any of his vassals should be
wealthier than himself; on which account
he instigated attacks upon these provinces,
to prevent them from becoming : too rich
and powerful. This part of Bumbo, which
beyond all doubt is the most pleasant and
eBgible district for fl.e establhlunent of*
commercial station, is twenty-eight leagues
north of the port of Mossamedes ; and in
the latitude of 14 degrees 2 minutes
south. The river rises in a mountain on
the east' north-east, and meanders south-
east towards the sea, which it reaches • in
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND B£NGU£LA« 63
\tbe latitude of. 14 degrees 57 minutes. ^ The
banks of this stream are well peopled,: and
have . numerpus villages, which were all
forsaken by the inhabitants on the. approach
of the expedition, and though a deputation
was sent to them, the novel appearance of
white men excited such terror, that no . in-
ducement could prevail upon them to return.
The party.remained here till the twenty-
fifth, when, they took ten Mucuahangues,
whose nation is governed by a nephew of
the Jau. These . men . were carr3ring. salt
from a salina, eleven journeys from Cape
Negro; aujd after a. short detention were
dismissed, together with two others belong-
ing to Cobale,. having been previously
d]:essed in garments of cloth. . In the night
of the twenty-fifth .the expedition was
attacked by a. discharge of arrows from the
Jiativ6s, who. resided on the left ; the attack
,was accompanied with loud cries, announc-
54 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
iDg their intentioii of renewing the assault
with more vigour the following day^ and it
had the effect of throwing the people
belonging to the expedition into some con«
fusion, and one oflSicer was wounded ; upon
which the commandant gave the aggressors
to understand that though he had no desire
of molesting them, yet as they had wantonly
provoked hostilities, they must expect, on
a continuance of them, to feel all the effects
of European arms. On the twenty-sixth
an embassy arrived from Muene Bumbo,
consisting of five persons, one of whom
was his son, another a Quissang or military
officer, and the others senior members of the
government. These deputies excused them^
selves for not having come earlier by saying
that they were under some apprehensions
of having incurred the resentment of the
Commander of the expedition, and they
wished him to believe that the object of
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 55
their chief in sending them now, was to see
how they would be treated. Having
received their apologies, and willing to
encourage an amicable intercourse by their
means, the ciDmmandant dismissed them
with presents of clothing, and red sashes-
On the twenty-ninth they came again, saying
that tbey could not persuade their monarch
to admit the expedition to his presence ;;
upon which a white man was offered as a
hostage, but in answer to this, they said
that a negro, belonging to Moindo das
Cuandos, a people who had voluntarily
accompanied the Portuguese in their enter-
prise from Quimana, wduld be preferred
to an European. This proposition bdng
acceded to, it was notified the dame evening
to the cotmlialidant, that he wodld be
received in' due forni th6 next day, which
ceremony iicCdrdingly took place with gre^t
satisfaction on both sides, th*3 sable chief
56 COAST AND INTERIOR 0^
shewing every mark of respect to his visitor,
who clothed him in return. In mentioning
this circmnstance the writer sa;ys, " I could
not have rendered a greater service to
my sovereign, in these parts, than thus
gaining over their Souva, whose friend-
ship and good disposition will make him
very useful in an intercourse with our new
establishment at Mossamedes ; and indeed
it would be very desirable to settle a fac^
tory in this fertile country, which yields
large supplies of ivory, wax, qattle, and
provisions, besides slaves/'
The Souva was so well satisfied with his
visitors that he promised to apprehend the
Mochuso, who was the author of the cruel-
ties committed at Cape Negro, On the
uorthern boundary of this part of Bumbo,
the expedition encountered some barba-
rous tribes, who annoyed them several
nights by discharges of arrows. On the
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 67
first of December they inarched six leagues,
following the directions of the guides,
voluntarily furnished them by the Souva ;
but always keeping close to the chain of
niiountains, from whence issued numerous
streams that fertilized the plains, which
were covered by a very thick population.
Some of these peoplie had recourse* tb a
bold stratagem for the purpose of destroy-
ing the expedition, by sending a negro,
who crept on all fours into the camp in' the
night, with an intent to fire the powder.
Being caught in the fact, he was hung up
immediately on a tree, where the body was
sufiered to remain three days, to strike
terror into the natives. Their next march
was to a large village, or Libata, as it is called
here, situated on a mountain, half a league
from which was a fine plantation, extending
down the slope into the valley below, and
affording an abundance of rich pasturage
i
58 COAST AKD INTERIOR OF
for cattle, which, though afoundant, the
natives obstinately refused to part with;
and they even stole into the camp in the
tii^t to carry off the few that remained of
what had been presented to the command--
ant by their more generous neighbour^.
The marauders were easily repulsed, and
in their flight made hidedus outcries. The
expedition rested here until the third, when
it being found necessary to convince the in-
habitants that they were not dreaded, on
account of their strength or numberii, a
party of four hundred men was sent to
form an ambuscade, conducted by a guide
from Bumbo. This detachment, depend-
ing on their miiskets^ attacked a large body
of the natives and drove them to the heights^
from whence they rolled doWn stones on the
assaillantfi, who however succeeded in taking
seventeen fine cows. On the fourth the
march was continued along the foot of the
CONGO^ ANGOLA, AND B£NGU£LA, 60
i^iain of liiUs, inhabited by an active and
bold race of negroes^ who were all robbers,
though their country was very populous and
^bounded in provi»ons. Here they found
large quantities of fruit growing wild, and
trees of an immense magnitude, on some
of which the commandant made inscrip-
tions. This province, which is called
Otomba, lies in the parallel of 14 degrees,
at tl^ distance <^ thirtyHsdx leagues from
the s^; and is plentifully supplied with
water of an excellent quality. On account
of the heavy rains, a halt took place, till
the sixth, when the expedition quitted the
range of mountains, and encamped near 4
river, which after intersecting the country
of Jau, foHQS a kke in the latitude of 14
degrees 4 minutes. !Nio attacks from the
natives were experienced during the fourth
and fifth, but on the evening of the sixth
an assault was made for the purpose of
60 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
carrying oflF the cattle that were grazing,
and which were recovered with diflSculty,
The eighth and ninth, were taken up in
marching to Bimxiabas, but:the incessant
rains obliged them to halt on the eleventh.
As this part of the country was almost un-
inhabited, in consequence of recent wars,
ihey kept close to the chain of mountains
whenever it lay in their power, on account
of the accommodation which they aflforded,
the sides being covered with trees, spring-
ing as it were even from the clefts of ^ the
rocks, while game of all kinds abounded
under their shade. The Quissa river runs
through this district to a lake in the latitude
of 14 degrees 10 minutes, three days' jour-p
ney on the route to Quilunga. On the
twelfth, they took the direct course to the
mountains of Bumbo, continuing their
march, at the distance of about thirty-six
leagues from the sea, till the fourteenth, when
CONGO, ANGOLA,' AND.BENGUELA. 61
they encamped at the foot of the ridge, and
halted there till the nineteenth, while a party
went in search of the inhabitants. All the
country, however, between Bimxiabas and
Bumbo, was . deserted ; though there was
no. want of . pasturage, trees, or aromatic
herbs.. Here the expedition crossed the
river Mueni Camjbambo, which forms a
conjunction with the. Senhebari ; and falls
into the sea in the latitude of 14 degrees.
From a mountain in latitude of IS degrees
2 minutes spring two rivers, the Dongue,
which flows to Mucheta, in 13 degrees 40
minutes, and the Quimana, which has its
mouth in the latitude of 13 degrees 19
minutes* The plain on the summit ranks
next to Bumbo for.fertihty and pleasant-
ness. It is exceedingly populous, and go-
verned by two chiefs ; one of whom rules
ovar the savages as far as the coast, while
th^ other has under his dominion the more
62 COAST AtfD UttERtOa CfP
tractable negroes of the mountamisi* Th€)
ascent, however, is difi&cult^ add the eleva^
tion exceeds that of all the other high lands
known in this part of Africa. From hence
the sea is distinctly seen, and the ^r is so
dear, that although it was now the middle of
summer, the people of the expedition found
it very cold. The chief, named Naquageli,
who governed the Mocuandos of the coast,
was but lately dead, and in consequence of
the civil wars which ensued, his son had re-
tired among the Quilengues. The other diief
who reigned in this mountain, was clothed
in form, by the commandant, who received
a promise that he would from that time
maintain an amicable connexion with the
Portuguese settlements. These people, who
possess vast numbers of cattle, live in vil-
lages, and plant maize and pttke for their
support. The expedition halted here until
the twenty-first, to procure pro^ii^ioilis, form
CONGO, AVGlOLA, ANXI B£NGUKLA. 6S
a. friendly alliance with the^ chief of the
mountainous district^ and to make obser^
vations on the country , which abounds in
the natural riches of i pasturage and water^
Towards the north east are the Mondombes^
who Jie next to Benguela ; on the east are
Quimana, and the people of Dongue^ Amur
cheito^ Quilumata, and Lombombi ; and
on the south east lie • Bimxial^s, and un*
tenanted forests.
On the twenty-second, the expediti(m
descended the mountain^ in a march of five
hours, travelling through a district inhabited
by a people exceeding in superstition all
that had been previously encountered. The
next day only a short march was made, in
consequence of a heavy thunder storm;
but on the twenty-fourth and twenty-fifth,
they had two very long journeys, for the
purpose of reaching Dombe de Quin^
zamba, where they finished the circle of
64 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
exploration, and arrived at Benguela on
the twenty-ninth of December, 1785.
From an unpublished memoir of M. de
Souzas, who was Governor General of An-
gola, till the year 1780, and who had been
stimulated by D'Anville, to extend disco-
veries in that part of Africa, we learn that
there . was no communication by land at
that time, between Angola and Benguela.
It is added, that the interior of the latter
country is preferable to that of Angola,
both. for commerce and salubrity ; and M.
de.Souzas farther observes, that Sarzodas,
a new settlement formed by himself inland
of Caconda, was the nearest point to Tete,
possessed by the Portuguese ; and that the
river . Cunene, communicates with a large
lake west of the Cuama.
In. a dispatch from the Portuguese Secre-
tary of State, Martinho de Mello Castro,
to the Governor General of Angola, bear-
CONGO,. ANGOL>A, AND BENGUELA. 05
ilig date .March 8, 1784,* I fouDd an^ac-
count of a Mission to St. Salvador,, the
position of which . place, is , accurately . laid
doMm in the map which accompanies ,this
publication. As the narratiye throws some
light upon. African geography, as well as
upon. the. character of the inhabitants, of
Congo, who have been brought over to the
Christian faith, an abistract of it is here
subjoined.
The mission consisted of three ecclesias-
tics of approved, character. Liborio. Graja,
of the order of Saint Bento, who wasnomi:
«
nated Bishop. of Angola, and Vicar Gene-
ral of Minao; Raphael, da Castelo de Vide,
a priest ; Joao Gualberto de Miranda,
of the. order, of Penitents ; , and. Doctor.
* * ft
* This paper in. the original, is entitled '' Instrnc-
caoens geraes que se referem a ontras de das dos
antecessores ;" i. e. *y General Instructions referring
to those given to his predecessors." . .
F
66 GOA8T AKD INT£araR OF
Aftdre Conto Goudiidio, of ihe faabit of St
Peter. The following h taken firom the
Journal of one of these missionaries, begun
in July, 1781.
They departed from Libohga, the utmost
territory in the dominions of Angola, be*-
yond the river Dande, and on the 5th of
August, the same year^ entered the Mai^
quisate of Mustd or Muxicongo, which
extends nearly to the river Loge. All th*
inhabitants of &is district are of a tract-
able disi^osition, aiid received the mis-
MOiiari^ with every expression of regard
and demonstration of joy^ The chief, who
was natxifsd Don Alve^d Cardal da Silva,
came to meet them wi& the greatest cor-
diality and respect. He h represented as
being a man of easy manners, much at-
tached to the Portuguese government, con-
versant with its language, and living on
terms of friendly correspond^ce * witii the
CONGO, ANQQhA, ANP BEKaV^LA. 67
missionaries. , Their next journey wfts to 9.
Banza or Fazenda, called But;nbe> "wkw^
they found a potentate of still greater, dligh
nity^ who assumed the title of Captain' Ger
neral of Jhe kiligdon]i.;of Congp,. This
chief aJsOi ipame out, to. me^t and. welcome
the missioAaides^ accokupiaaied by a great
number of negroeSt some armed with mu^r*.
quets, and others with bOws and arrows^
After ^xpeipi^cLcing a yeigr hpspital?le tre^Jl^^
ment^ they left tMs limzB. on the , 14th of
August^ &r . the river XiOge, where thfi
marquiaate of Mnsul tenninat^s^ a^id the
dukedom of Bamba begins; They reaqhed
the banks of thia river the same day, ai^i
having passed it in a canoe, were received
on tiieir Imiding by the ruler of the. district,
who bears the title: of the Infanta^ He had
a numerous train of attendants armed lil^e
the preceding, and bdlfti he and his people
behaved to the. missicmaries with th^ great^s|
68 COAST A VD INTERIOR OF
req>ect and veneration: Tbey were under
die necessity of stopping here diree- or four
days, on account of the quantity of their lug-
gage, and dieir having only one small canoe,
in which they at length embarked, and pro-
ceeded along the river, the people accom-
panying them on botii sides, and all singing
hjrmns for their safety during the passa:ge.
But tiiough the missionaries were treated with
afiection, and even veneration, they were
not exempt from mortifications, and had
much trial of tiieir patience in tiie conduct
of tiie negroes who were employed to carry
tiieir baggage ; some not coming up in time,
while otiiers dropped their burthens on the
road, which occasioned great inconvenience,
and aggravated the sufferings produced by
illness and tiie inclemency of tiie weatiier.
One tiling was observed, tiiat tiiough the
negroes bore complaint and reproof very
submissively, they did not alter their con-
CONGO, AKGOLA, AND fi£NGU£LA. 69
duct. Thus . iocommoded and , distressed,
they passed through part of the territory
of Bamba, and -arrived, at a large Banza,
csiUed Quina, Mtbere they were lodged. by
the Chief: and: Infanta, denominated . the
Interpreter,^ or cMa^ter of. the Church,^ a
title given to^ all .those, who write and speak
the I^ortuguese language. . In their, way. to
.this : place tbey- were met:.by a number of
theinhabitstnts o£ both^sexes, who welcomed
;th€tir airival with.continual shouting, and
expressions, of religioussatisfaction. Here
the Vicar General of, the. mission, . liborio
da Graja^dii^d, and: his place was conferred
on Brother Baphael da Castelo. de Vide.
They remained fiftieen days at Quina, being
visited by all the grandees of the district,
and among the rest by the Regent of Bamba,
the ducal title being, at that time, vacant
All the^se persppag^s . sent presents .to . the
/nissiQnaries,^, but .made many excuses tq
70 COAST AitD iNfERIOR OF
pnsrent ihem from proceeding, with the
hope, of sdcuiing their residence among
them for a longer period, assuring them
lliat the people were not to be trusted,
and that tbey must send to fhe King of
Congo, in order to procure guides. Soon
afterwards, however, seventy men were
forwarded to them for this purpose, and
accordin^y with that escort, .to which 6thiers
iwere added, the missionaries renewed their
journey ; but still experienced much trouble
froin the delays and desettions of their con-
^luctors. At last they reached a considera-
Ider Banza, called pomma^ "vi^hose chief, in
ad£tioh to his ititle of* Mat<![uis of Bemba,
had been made^ %tA^t of the Order of
j0hrkt, by Ae King of Congo : t>esides which
he had also th^ difi^tinbtion t)f Captain of
lire: JCfaurch^ an appellation very inuch va-
lued by dieses {People; and which, there-
fore, the Vicars Oefeeral tarke cstre to give
CONGO^ ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 71
ta those grandees .who endeavour to merit
it by their reUgious. z^aJ. This marq»is,
upon bemg informed of the approa^ch of
the .missionaries^ ;6«nt an officer, with a
number of peopfe carrying arms and mu-
sical, instniments, to meet them in a large
wood^ £rom whence they were conducted
in a splendid manner to the Banza, whi^e
they were well accommodated, the women
and <!hildren weljcoming than with ^ Ave
Maria/ which j^ieyjKing with great joy and
deyotion. Shortiy after their arrival, they
we«vfcited_bythed>ief,a»d«u>fl.erper.
fionage of )iigh rank, iwlio ui^derstood For-
N
tugpese tolerably well; jand, on. their de-
parture,; several, children were brought to
receive tlje • sacrament jof baptism- From
h&m^ tJs^Ly iiisere >acQ(MBpam to Apozanti,
by another . ^grandee, who had likewise in
his. train a.darge body <xf people playing
cm. musical /instmuEieiits. This personage
72 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
> •
after their arrival came again to wait upoiit:
and welcome them, arrayed in his best ap-
parel, which ceremonious mark of respect,
is it seems customary amongst these people.
In pursuing their route from hence the
missionaries came to a river, so difficult f o
pass, that the negroes had recourse to the
expedient of putting the fathers into iheir
fishing nets, which being raised on their
shoulders, while others placed themselves
underneath to keep the water from them,
they were thus carried over safe and dry.
Here they were met by two other persons
of rank, who, as well as their people, re-
ceived them with every demonstration of
joy ; one of these grandees, caUed the Mar-
quis of Quihdonque, sent them presents at
the Banza^ where they were visited by the
chief and many of his relations. In the
same manner they were welcomed by two
other chiefs the most noble and powerful' of
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 73
all the district, who lodged them in a much
better house than any they had hitherto
entered. This was the: last Banza of the
duchy of Bamba, which terminates at the
great river called Biirge, the largest they
had seen \ except the Zaire. On the last
day of October, they crossed this river, and
entered what was called the territory of the
Queen, then continuing their journey, with
considerat)le * inconvenience from bad wea-
thier, sickness, and the ill conduct of their
guides, they arrived at a Banza, the chief
of which, named Don Alfonso, enjoyed the
title of Marquis of Pemba. Here they
were met, as they had been in other parts of
their route; by many of the population, some
armed, and others playing upon musical
instruments, ' while the women and children
chaunted hymns of thanksgiving. At this
station the missionaries were detained three
months; during which they made excursions
74 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
into different parts of die country > baptising
children, performing the ceremony of i mar-
riagOt confessing p^iitaits, and adminis-
tering the sacraments. Thay ako built a
church of cane, which they oraamaited as
decently as circumstajotces irould permit^
and in which the divine offices were atr
tended by the people with great devotion.
The missionaries add that Don Alphonso^
who was the youngest brother of the king
of CongO) was by far the most polite,
humble, and attentive of all the. chiefs they
had ytherto met with in Ihe course of iheir
journey. He had adopted the Porti^uese
customs, spoke and wrote the language
pretty rcorrectly, and appeared very /much
attached to the church of vdbich he called
himself inaster and interpreter. ^ From the
Bdnsa of thisAprince they passed to another,
belonging to ihe 'marquis of Pongo, called
Don Andre, > who was brother to the king^
^ '
CONGO, ANaOLA, ANP BBNGUELA. 76
and by whom they were received witii the
same expressibns of cordiality; Here they
remained two months, and then proceeded
to Bmida, whose chief, Don Miguel, was
likewise a prince of Congo, and bore the
tide of captain of the church. They con-
tinued with him more than two months,
and while there, an drder came from the
king to his brothers, dedring them to hasten
the missldimries foi^ftrard, for that as he was
about to enter his Capital, he did not like
to do so, wididut receiving their bienedic-
tion. The princes upon this held a consul*
tation ^th themselves, the result of which
w%ts ikat it wbuld not be advisable to let the
missionaries go, until the king had entered
his cstpital, when they would be more secure.
In order to erpkin the reasons of this reso-
lution, it will be necessary to give some
account of the state of the kingdom of
Congo at this time. Although the present
76 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
monarch had succeeded td the crown by
hereditary right, it happened that one of
the governors had set up an opposition, to
him, by pretending that the true king, Don
Pedro the fifth, was still alive, and had
appointed him regent of his dominions.
False as all this was, it had so much effect
that the fabricator of the imposture succeed-
ed in gaining over to his interest a: consi-
derable number of partizans, : with whose
assistance he contrived to get posisession of
St. Salvador, the capital of the kingdom,
which place he strengthened with additional
works, to' prevent the : entrance of . Don
Jose, the lawfuLsoveriBign of Congo. Upon
this the brothers of the: king, together with
the grandees, who still retained their loyalty,
united their forces against the usurper, an,d
exerted themselves to. the utmost, in , uade-^
ceiving the people, who either were already
or^tood in danger of being led away J?y the
CONGO, ANOOIiA,,AND BENGUELA. 77
imposture. It was at this crisis, when civil
"mr divided Congo, iHiat Hie missionaries
entered the country, having been pur-
posely sent for by the royal brothers, who
judged, and rightly as. the event, shewed,
that their influence would be of consider-
able moment in. restoring order, by placing
the king upon, the throne of his ancestors.
Finding that the, first application was not
attended to with the promptness which the
case seemed to require, they repeated their
request, by sending an ambassador, who
met the missionaries at the passage of the
river Loge. It has already been stated
that tiiey were, received with uncommon
marks of respect by the princes, who,
however, thought it expedient to place a
strong guard over their visitors, lest the
opptosite party should attempt to get pos-
^ session of them, which it was well known
they anxiously wished to do. This accounts
78 COAST AKD INTERIOR OF
also for the delays that took place during
ffae journey, because as the passage of Ike
missionaries necessarily led through that
part of the country occupied by the Con-
goese, who were in the interest of tho
rebellious governor^ there was great danger
inmaking their way to the residence of the
king ; nor was it deemed prudent to ven-*
ture thither till the royal forces were strong
enough for their protection. In the interval^
and while the loyal party were making the
requisite preparations to support their
monarch, and secure the progress of the
missionaries, upon whom so much de^
pended, the latter received a conmiuni-^
cation from the chiefs of the faction,
endeavouring to justify their proceeding^
by plausible pretences, and to brmg ov^r
these ecclesiastics to their interests. The
brothers of the king, being present when
the letter was delivered, became mucll
CONGO, ^ANaOIAi A.N^0 BBNCfOELA. 79
enraged^ ivand not content )wi1ii calling
tfaeb oppon^^ts im^8tors and rebels^ they
fell upon the messenger^ with a. determi^
natioit to take away his life^ which they
would have accomplished had it not been
for one JOdT the missionaries^ who raised the
maniromthe ground, and conveyed him to
his iown apartment for safety. In answer to
the letter^ the missionaries^ observed that^
administers of the churchy they were not
come to Congo to take part either with
one side or the other in matters of a
civil nature, < but merely to instruct the
people in rdigious principles and duties ;
and that wil^ regard to the divisions which
unhappily existed in the country, it was
their desire to, see justice and right prevail^
by^ the establishment of the lawful monarch*
TMs r^y gave so much satis&ction to the
chie£^ <of the royal party, who saw iii it a
full assursmce of their success, that they
\
80 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
sent away under a guard for his protection^
the . very messenger whom they had before
endeavoured to destroy.
This circumstance made the missionaries
come . to. the resolution of hastening their
inarch to the king, who had been waiting
for them some months ; and accordingly
they informed the princes and their adhe-
rents that, whether accompanied by them
or not, they should proceed without any
farther delay. Upon this the whole party
conunenced their journey, six hundred
negroes, armed with muskets, having been
previously mustered as a. guard for their
security. On their arrival at that part of the
country occupied . by the insurgents, and
particularly on drawing near the capital, the
escort, being fearful of an attack, divided
themselves into two bodies, putting . the
missionaries in the middle ; in which prde?
they continued their march. A troop pf
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. ^1
the other party did indeed come up, but
instead of committing any act of hostility,
they ran to the opposite bank of a river,
which the missionaries were obUged to pass^
and there throwing themselves before them
on their knees, craved their benediction.
As this troop continued the same course,
several messages passed between them and
the king's brothers and chiefs, which last,
always fearing some design to carry off .the
missionaries, ordered their soldiers to remain
under arms all night ; and seeing several
of the opposite party coming to be baptized
and to confess, they caused the tents to
be suddenly struck, and the main body
to march without delay. On the thirtieth
of June they arrived at the Banza apppinted
for them, and which was but a short way
from the residence of the king, who sent
them a message, saying, that as they must
be fatigued with their journey, he should
not expect them to visit him that day.
84 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
fined to ihe principal grandees of the
kingdom. The same honour was bestowed
upon the interpreter of the confessions,
who had attended upon the missionaries
from their first entrance into the dukedom
of Bamba ; and also upon the chief of the
Banza, where the first audience had been
given to them, and who was a relative of
the king.
It was now determined upon by the
monarch, to proceed to St. Salvador, the
ancient seat of the kings of Congo, which
was; only at the distance of three leagues
from his present residence; but previous
to his departure, he despatched the con-
ductor of the missionaries to Angola, to
thank the governor in his name for sending
them ; assuring his excellency that perfect
friendship should be kept up between the
two states, and informing him that a regu-
lar ambassador would be sent as soon as his
CONGO^ ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 85
majesty was settled in the possession of Ym
capital*
Mention has abready been made of
Colonel Lacerda, who was ordered by the
Portuguese government to penetrate inland
from Tete, and who died while engaged on
that expedition. Count linharez, the
ambassador irom the court of Jjisbon to
that of Turin, was so kind as to commu-
nicate to me a copy of the colonel's last
dispatch addressed to Don Roderigo de
Souza^ his excellency's father, who was
them secretary of state. In this letter the
colonel complains that the captain-general
of Mozambique, refused to furnish hun
with any assistance for the prosecution of
his mission. The dispatch was dated from
Tete in March 1798, and the colonel was
Jto proceed in May, accompsmied by six
86 ' COAST .AND INTERIOR OF
officers and fifty soldiers. Enclosed was a
deposition of Gonsalvo Gaetano F^eira^
a native of Goa, who had long carried on
the gold trade in this part of the interior of
Afrieoy and who ^ from his resolute * and
daring conduct had obtained the appelk*
torn of ^^Tiie Terror'' from the natives.
This adyentuter, taking advantage of the
letum of fifve hi^dred Movi^a > traders, liad
seni his son to end€^a;vour by their means
-to ascertain' the sources from whence tliey
jdrew the gold of which they made traffic.
¥oung Pereira departed from «^Mdringa,
tiar^e days journey north of Tete, in cfom-
painy tn& the Moviza trade^and^ several
of his own slaves, in May 1796. They
first passed through the doimfery of the
Maravis, divided into the districts t'pfBeve-
vende^ Mocende^>>and Mazavamba^ where
they^old a considerable quantity of cloth-
ing. From thence they proceeded to tiie
* Vide Map at the end.
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 87
batiks of the rapid river, Arooange, which
according to the. report of some of the
natives, communicates with the Zambe;^,
nearZembo. Thus far they met with no
obstacles, and were not even annoyed by
the Maravis, who dre described as bdng
robbers by profession, and who impede the
commerce . with Tete very much, by their
depredations on the caravans in their return
from tJience. Should the dog of a tra-
veller in passing through this country, but
enter into a house, or give chase to one
of Hieir domestic fowls, it would be con-
sidered' as a crime, for which a heavy suni
by way of fine would be exacted. Maize
and game abound here, as also do black
cattle, but they have neither sheep, goats,
nor swine. Leaving some of his slaves to
trade Qn the river, young Pereira entered
the Mbviza territory, and at the end 0f
eleven days, during which he travelled at'
88 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
the rate of five or six hours in the twenty-
four, he came to another river called by
the Movizas, Zambeze, but which he was
convinced could not be the stream of the
same name that passes Tete, because this
new Zambeze, as he terms it, flows in k
different direction, and falls into another
river of which notice will be taken here-
after. He describes the Movizas as being
a good, peaceable^ and industrious people,
traiding chiefly in cloth. The principal
articles of the tribute, which they pay
to the Cazambe, are obtained by them
from the Majaos, who procure them in
Zanguebar, or as Pereira writes it Zinze-
bar. All the ivory of this part of the
interior passes through the hands of the
Movizas, who, however, only sell a part of
it at Mozambique. All these people had
their teeth filedj but they refused Pereira
permission to examine them, unless one of
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 89
>
liis own attendants^ would submit to the same
operation. He concludes his account of
the Movizasj, by saying that they were not
io barbarous as the other negroes, whom he
had met with, being in some degree civii-
lized ; for which indeed an adequate reason
may be easily assigned, in their attachment
to commercial intercourse.
On the other side of the Zambeze, Pereira
and his party entered • the territory of the
Ca^embe, which had been conquered for
hinr by his father, the king of Moropooa.
They were nineteen days in travelling from
the river to the capital, during which they
traversed some deserts, where they met with
wild beasts i and according to Pereira's
account they were nearly one whole day in
passing a large lake, the water of which
did not reach above their loins, because it
Was carried off by two channels, the onfe
communicating with the new Zambeze,
90
COAST AND INTERIOR OF
fuid tbi other.tidth a very large river .called
the Murusura^ on whose banks alahds the
capital ; of }tbe . Gazembe. The MurusuriBty
fvrhich flows' behind the^mmintains of ^Mu-
idmbula^. ^directly north, of Sena, is. called
by some of :the natiTesrtheNaDjaya^malQpey
and by others the Shiree or. Kire, and re-
ceives the new Zambezey;notiar: below the
capital o£ the^ Gaz^nbe. ; Bereira and his
:e6mpany were three:, days in sailing; along
this i riiver > to the. capital, . sleeping : every
night on one or other of > the islands with
whkbit abounds.
>The:, reception they experienced at the
court, of the Gazembe, was of the most
flattering tdes^cription^ and the , first tibing
the^ nM>niirch did^ was to bestow upon them
a> title, which, by .rendering tbdbr persons
sac^ed^ Eecured .them f rom injury^and insult
He next assigned them a plantation of ripe
manioc or cassave^ as a maiatenan&er diHring
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 91
tbar stay ; besides which they were pub-
licly exempted from the customary punish-
ments of that country, such as cutting off
the ears, hands, and other members, inflicted
for particular offences.
Immediately on their arrival, a messenger
was dispatched to the King of Moropooa^
informing him, that if he had ^eeh white
men from "Angola, his ison, the Cazembe,
had now received a visit of the like kind
from Mozambique. This Prince, who liv^i
in a style of great magnificence, has maiiy
wives ; a silk robe with bnormous folds
invests his person, and on his Head he wears
a cap or bonnet, ornamented with a ited
feather, beads, and fringe of gold and iil^
ver. He seldom makes his appearance in
{^ubhc, except at his levees, on which iS)C-
casion he presents to his chiefs, an ardent
spirit extracted from maize, but thd qukn-
lity circulated at th^e entertaitimehtsl is
92 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
filed and moderate, for intoxication is here
considered as so great a crime, that a par-
ticular magistrate has the cognizance of it,
with a power of punishing those who offend
against sobriet3^
The sovereign keeps up so high a state,
that even during the ceremony of receiving
his foreign visitors, he remained most part
of the time behind a curtain, as if his au-^
gust presence Was a favour to be witnessed
only at intervals by the chosen few. Pereira
observes, that the troops were remarkably
well disciplined, and very orderly in. their
behavioUt, the miUtary manoeuvres being
directed by signs. The soldiers were all
armed with long lances and short knives, of
an oblong form like a guitar, the manufac-^
ture of the country ; the shields, which
covered the whole body, were made of the
bark of trees, and had the exterior surface
covered with reeds^ cjlosely united to each
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 93
odier. These shiel^is are of course very
light, and were kept a long time under
water previous to their being used.
No bows w€re seen amongst these people,
<iiat species of weapon being confined to
their tributaries, the Movizas, who are
always placed in front when engaged in
action, the Cazembe's own people following
them in ranks of three deep.
The capital, which is under the direction
of a police, is some miles in circumference ;
surrounded by a thick high hedge, and a
deep ditch, within which enclosure all the
subjects of the Cazembe were compelled
to reside at the beginning of his reign, on
account of the wars in which he was en-
gaged ; but since the complete establish-
ment of his superiority over all his neigh-
bours, that restriction is no longer enforced.
The despotic authority of this potentate,
extends, it is said, to such a degree over
94 COAST AND INTERJOH OF
the persons of his people, that even their
very hours of amusement and rest, are
prescribed by him at his, pleasure. It is
not, therefore, surprising that he. should
monopolize with only a small allowance to
his nobles, the trade in ivary^ ^and the prdt
duce of the mines in his kingdom. These
last consist of iron and Copper, though the
latter metal is found in greater abundajice
farther inland. There is no gold in the
Cazembi's territories ; and what is very
remarkable, there was only one pig in his
dominions, which animal had been recently
sent as a present to the monarch,, by hu;
«Mher. Almost all the slaves collected by
the Cazembe and his people, are sent tQ
Moropooa, and thence to Angola and Ben*
guela.
Pereira represents the people of this
country as being very different from the
negroes of the coast, for they spoke little^
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 95
were extremely civil, combed didr hair
neatly, had some idea of harmony in their
miisic^ and danced: without any. breach of
modesty. One of their peculiarities was
that of taking' up some dust from the ground
and rubbing it upon the upper part of their
arms, before they entered into conversat
tion; but their reason for ^this customiis
-
not stated. ' They have small, idob whkh
are hollow, for the<ionvenience of drinking
their medicines out of them ; but they have
neither sorcerers nor priesta, and were very
indignant when- asked whetii^ such per^sons
possessed any authority among tibiem^r It
was admitted that during! one of their long
and destructive wars, they had been. cori^
pelled to eat human flesh; but the case
was solitary, and the effect not of choice
but necessity.
The Cazembe would not allow Pereira to
leave his kingdom, except upon the con-
96 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
dition, that he and his countrymen would
visit it again, and he declared that if they^
did not he should consider them aa his
enemies. Pereira and his companions suf-
fered very much in their return, from the
want of provisions, and by missing their
route, they did not pass the great lake
which they had before crossed. This man
was afterwards attached to the expedition
under Colonel Lacerda, who in his dispatch
to the Ddinister, gave this farther information^
that an ambassador had arrived from the
Cazembe, who furnished him with the fol-
lowing itinerary, more south and direct
than the route which had been -pursued by
Pereira.
1 day — Muenepanda.
2-3 Through an uninhabited country.
4-5 River B,oena«
6 Caoonda.
7 Maroovo,
8 Capangara.
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 97
9 day — To the foot of a mountaiii, near a little
river called Mamuquenda.
10 Shideia — Muyepo.
11 Shipako.
12 Chiramkepe.
13 Rokooro River.
14 Zambeze River.
15 Moogronie.
16 Camamgo.
17 Sheera.
18 Caramooga.
19 Monguro.
20 Makatupa.
, 21 Parusoka.
'
22 Roanga River.
23 Capangara.
24 Roomooida.
25 Mezamba.
26 Through an uninhabited country.
27 Tribe of Shikoon.
28 Tribe of Inharuanga.
29 Capremera.
30 Through an uninhabited country.
31 Sanza River.
32 Mucanda.
H
98 COAST AKD INTERIOR OF
S3 day--**Banichira.
34 To the small river Booa.
35 Tribe of Caravere.
36 Roovooi river.
37 Java ; five joameys firom Tete» and od
the northern side of the Cuama.
The ambassador^ on his arrival at Tete,
immediately recognized the Portuguese
flag, having seen the like, he said, at An-
gola, the distance to which from his own
country was, according to his account, three
months, that being the space of time he
took in making the journey. He asserted,
that the river Lucala flows into the Coanza,
and that canoes came from Angola to
within a short distance of Moropooa.
This ambassador farther st^'ted, that it was
two montiis' journey from the capital of
the Cazembe to that of Moropooa, and
that on the route four rivers were to be
passed upon rafts, namely, the Rooapoora,
the Mafura, the Guarava, and the Rofoe,
CONGO, ANGOLA ANDBENGUELA. 99
each of which was as large as the ZambezeJ
There is, however, according to his state-
ment, only one nation in all that intenrening
space, namely, the Varoondas, who reside
upon the banks of those riversj where they"
cultivate mai^e and cassava. He declared
that the Cazembe had sent him on this
mission, to procure information respecting
what wrongs the Portuguese or native tra-
ders had suffered, from the intermediate
tribes ; also to propose a plan for clearing
the passage at their mutual expehse; t6
express a desire that a factory should be
^tablished on the Rooanga river ; and to
reconmiend, that traders in future, should
only travel in large bodies.
Colonel Lacerda likewise enclosed in his
dispatches, the brief deposition of a Mo-
viza, stating, that the whole country from
Tete to the Arroanga river, belongs to the
Maravis ; while the territory from this river
lOO COAST AND INTERIOR OF
to the frontier of the proper dominions of
the Cazembe, appertain^ to the Movizas.
The same person who described also the
Coanza in Angola, asserted that he had
traversed a large tract of desert country in
going to Moropooa, and had found villages
only on the banks of the four great rivers.
In the thirteenth and fourteentii volumes
of the " Investigador Portuguez," a pe-
riodical pubUeation now discontinued, are
some interesting historical notices upon
Mozambique, and the country about Sena
and Tete. The author, who was an old
resident in that quarter, says, that Barreto,
in 1570, fitted out an expedition at Sofala,
in order to penetrate by the Mongas, to the
gold mines of Manica, belonging to the
Quitevo, or sovereign of Matapa, whose
dominions at that period extended from
Sofala to the river Cuama or Zambeze, and
comprehended numerous districts. The
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. lOl
king of Shikanga, who was a Mohammedan,
and at variance with the Quitevo^ received
Barreto courteously, and the Motapahs,
finding, after some skirmishes, that they
could not stand against the Portuguese and
their new ally, retired to the mountains;
Barreto, being disappointed in his search
for the mines, and having lost a great many
men, entered into a treaty with the Quitevo,
by which he stipulated to deliver to him
yearly, two hundred pieces of cloth, for the
privilege of halving a free passage through
his territory. In a second expedition, the
same enterprising adventurer founded the
settlement of Sena, and, for the first time,
traversed the forests of Lupata, which cover
a ridge of mountains, figuratively denomi-
nated " the Spine of the World/' After
this, he penetrated as far as Chicova,
prompted by the expectation of finding
in that direction a mine of silver, but being
102 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
unsuccessfiil, he returned, built the fort of
Tete» and sat ^own contented with the
quiirt possession of the coast and the banks
of liie .Cuama. We are also told, in the
same account, that though the first Portu-
guese missionary, Da Silva, was received
favourably at thfe court of the Quitevo, in
1571, he afterwards fell a victim to his own
2seal and Mussulman intolerance. Manica,
where a fair is annually held, and which is
the principal mart for gold, is twenty jour-
neys southrwest of Sena. At the beginning
of the seventeenth century, the bare wash-
ings of the environs of Ihis place, the
natives being too indolent to work the
mines, yielded one hundred thousand cru-
zadoes of gold yearly ; and yet not one
third of that amount is now produced.
The country round Manica is devated,
fertile, and full of cattle ; but it is subject
very much to thunder storms, which the
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 103
ifihabitants attribute to the quantities of
metallic substances lying beneath the sur-
face. The Portuguese barter here the
cloths of Surat, together with coarse silks
and iron, for gold, ivory, and copper.
It is two hundred and forty seven miles,
or twelve days' journey, from Quilimane to
Sena, from which last establishment a yearly
tribute is sent to Zimbao, the ancient
capital of the Quitevo, the distance of
which is fifteen days west from Sofala.
The river Reizigo, which rises in the
country of the Moravi, falls into the Cuama
half a league below Tete ; and from this
last place to Sena the distance, allowance
being made for the windings of the stream,
is about two hundred and thirty miles. To
the north-east of the mountains of Lupata,
is Jambara, a country that is perfectly in-
dependent of the Portuguese, and very
abundant in provisions and ivory. At a
1U4 COAST. AND INTERIOR O^
remote distance westward from Chicova;
are two other, sovereign states, called Tipooi
and Mussangani. Zumbo, where the Por-
tuguese have a factory, stands on the Cuama
river, and is a montii^s journey from Tete ;
during the first fifteen days travellers must
go by land till they reach Chicova, in order
to avoid a fall of water called Sacumbe,
which thus far obstructs the navigation^ but
afterwards the course is unimpeded.
It appears from a valuable manuscript
" on the State of the Portuguese Commerce
at Mozambique,''* that the Quitevo or sove-
reign of Motapa, made over one half of
his dominions to Sebastian, king of Por-
tugal, in consideration of present succour
and future assistance ; but that in 17599 a:
* The title of this manuscript is '' Do Estada em^
que ficavao os Negocios da Capitania de Mossambique
no ^ fin de Nov. 1789, escripta em 1790, par Jeronimo
Jose Nogueint de Andrade."
CONGO^ ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 105
civil war arose, which had the effect of
dividing the empire into small principalities,
whose continued hostilities with each other,
leave no hope of a restoration of the an-
cient government. This is stated to have
been a severe blow to the Portuguese, who,
being no longer connected with any great
power in this part of Africa, find their
commercial relations very precarious, and
exposed to continual depredations. A
Maravi chief, called the Ghangamera,
availed himself of these distractions to as-
sume the title of Quitevo ; but no security
to trade resulted from this alteration, for
being a robber by profession, as well as his
people, it was impossible that any reliance
could be placed on such a government.
The immediate subjects of this chief are
much devoted to him, but they pass their
whole lives either in the indolence of sen-
suality, or the activity of spoliation. They
106 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
hold agriculture and commerce in con-
tempt, and thinking themselves a distinct
race, superior to the rest of mankind, they
consider work as a degradation. Plunder,
therefore, is their sole object, and for the ex-
ercise of this calling, they take out a regular
license from their sovereign, who makes it
a considerable branch of his revenue. Six
or seven of these desperadoes, who are
called memhays, or soldiers, will, it is said,
intimidate six hundred negroes of other
tribes, and even strike terror into those who
have lived long in the service of the whites-
Such are the freebooters with whose aid the
Changamera has succeeded in making all
his conquests, and compelled the entire
population of several districts to quit their
habitations, and fly to the northern side of
the Zambeze river*
Fifty leagues from Tete is Dambarari,
where formerly was held a considerable
CONOO, AKGOL'A, AND BENGUELA. 107
fair^ being then a very large and flourishing
town, as its cemented but ruined walls
still shew. The steeple of the church, and
even the clock in it, are remaining, but the
body of the sacred structure was destroyed
by an ancestor of the Changamera, when
he took the town, which, in consequence,
became depopulated. Some of the Cana-
rian inhabitants, a name given to the Por-
tuguese mulattoes of Goa and their de-
scendants, fled to Tete, others to ZuinbOj
which though it has neither fortress nor
cultivation, and is surrounded by forests,
is a place of great resort on account of its
fair. To this place is brought not only the
principal part of the gold of the rich mines
of Abutua, which are one hundred and
twenty leagues distant to the westward in
the territory of the Changamera, but also that
from the mines of Femba and Murusura ;
and what seems more extraordinary, con-
hi
108 COAST AND INT£RIOE OF
aiderable quantities of ivory come hither
from the Orange river. Besides these
valuable articles of commerce, the horns
of the rhinoceros, are also met with in great
numbers in the market of Zumbo. In
this part of the interior, the climate is very
mild and salubrious, but the resident Portu-
guese mulattoes are very unprincipled, and
what is worse, if Andrade is to be credited^
they are countenanced in their criminal
and rapacious conduct by the missionaries,
who share in their spoils. There are
copper and iron mines near Zumbo, also
beds of coal,, various kinds of chrystals^
and an abundance of excellent timber.
The author last quoted observes, that
there can be no doubt of the existence of
the silver mines of Chicova, and that they
are ; very rich, he says, is proved by the
massive lamps, contained in the churches
near that settlement. It appears from a
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 109
manuscript record, th^t Diego de Conti,
between the years 1560 and 1570, made
a series of experiments at Mozambique
on specimens of silver ore brought from
Chicova by Vasco F. Homem ; and the
general result was, that the ore contained
two parts of silver to one of a sandy stone.
Small bars of gold are still brought from the
interior to Tete. At this last place corn is
cultivated to great advantage, and six
thousand Portuguese bushels are annually
exported from thence, but about due half
of that quantity is obtained from the
Maravis, who raise it for sale, and who
manufacture their own spades, which they
make of the iron found in their country.
Sugar is also cultivated at Tete, the cane
being indigenous, and so abundant, that the
sixteen families, who were occupied in this
branch of trade in the year 1806, made
one hundred and 'fifteen arrobas, or about
110 COAST AND. INTERIOR OF
thirty-three hundred weighty of white sugar,
and five hundred and sixty-nine arrobas,
or upwards of one hundred and sixty
hundred weight, of brown sugar. Cofiee,
cotton, and indigo, which last is the most
common of all the plants, are also natives
of this country. Tobacco and rice are cul*
tivated in greater quantities at Quilimane,
but those of Sena are of a better quality.
Cassava is abundant, but it grows wild,
and is not made an artide of culture, . as
cabbages, lettuces, spinach, pease, beans,
yams, and potatoes are, as well as several
plants which produce oil, particularly the
- N
ricinus. There are also reared here both
for immediate and commercial purposes, a
variety of medicinal plants, such as rhubarb,
jalap, and senna, and others that are used
in dying.* The wild bees afford large
* See Dote at the end.
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUBLA. lil
quantities of honey and /wax ; besides which
articles, the oil and the tusks of the hippo-*
potwius are collected here for exportation.
Copper is plentifullysupplied from Moviza,
Zumbo, and Inhambene. Though salt-*
petre abounds in the crown lands, it is
neglected^ These lands inTete, Sena, and
Quilimane, produced in 1806, a yearly
revenue of 2,900,000, reis, since which
thirteen other districts have been added
by conquest ; ten were taken from the
Jazora or queen of a territory in the Maravi
country, north of the Cuama, and one
from the chief of Beve, who, as well as the
former, had given offence by harbouring
ftigitive slaves. These new lands which
are exceedingly fertile, have been parti- .
tioned out among different famiUes, who
pay for them an annual rent to the crown.
The Portuguese population and influence
have been farther increased in this part of the
1112 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
interior^ by a grant of lands to every native
woman, who marries a Portuguese. All
that part of the country bordering on the
river Zambeze is rendered very healthy, by
a refreshing wind, which blows daily from
the south; so that the only malady of
moment prevailing here is an intermittent
fever. In 1806 there were not above five
hundred free residents, professing the
Christian religion, in Quilimane, Tete,
Sena, Zumbo, and Manica, while on the
other hand there were 10,867 ftigitive slaves,
and 10,960 natives who were bom in slavery.
This country possesses numerous sources
of trade, and the Cuama, Shireis, Reizigo,
and Arvanha rivers, afford ample and noble
means for the extension of inland navi-
gation.
The miUtary force, at the different esta<>*
blishments is as follows : at Tete, two com-
panies, amounting to ninety-four men ; at
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENOUBLA. US
Sena, one, consisting of forty-nine; at-
Quilimane, one, amounting to. seventy-two ;
at Zumbo, one, of thirty-seven in number ;,
and at Manica, One company of twelve
only; making in all but two huiidred and
sixty-four soldiers, in the different garrisons.
There ought to be five regiments of militia
on foot, in addition to the regular troops,
but they are at present very incomplete
and badly disciplined. The military
governors have the regulation of every
thing, but they are assisted by civil judges,
who are accoiiritable for their conduct to
the auditor-general at Mozambique. ^ ^
Andrade in his Memoir, asserts, that in
consequence of the contraband trade, which
is ' carried on with the Isle of France, the
Portuguese colonies do not receive more
than six', hundred slaves out of the entire
number, amounting from four to five thou-
saind annually supplied by the interior. In
114 COAST AND INTEKIOR OF
the export list of Quilimane, for the year
18069 we find an entry of one thousand
and eighty slaves for Mozambique, and
four hundred and four forthe Isle of France.
in 1818 there were eight thousand one
hundred and sixty-four slaves exported from
Mozambique, the duty on which number
amounted to 52,815,600 reis.
The salary of the captain-general of
Mozambique is 2,400,000 reis, and that of
the bishop, who is a sufiragan of the arch*
bishop of Goa, is 1,600,000 reis. The
garrison consists of a battalion of about
two hundred infantry, one hundred artilleiy^
and two hundred and fifty sepoys (stationed
at Mossorul) besides militia.
The bay and river of Mocambo in the
country of Jancul, bordering upon Mossorul
on the south, form a spacious harbour,
capable of receiving large ships ; and at
this place the whale fishery is carried on to.
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND B£NGU£LA. 115
great advantage. Sofala is a small port^
into which only small vessels can eoter, and
yet the establishment here consists of a go«^
vernor^ a judge, a major, and an adjutant,
with a company of soldiers. Inhambene
is a fine port, but it is undefended by any
fortress; the civil settlement and military
force are the same here as at Sofala ; and
they have succeeded in opening an inland
communication with Tete, and the bay of
XiOrenzo-Marques. The latter harbour is
very capacious and secure, the climate
remarkably healthy, and the country rich
in the produce of gold, copper, iron, and
ivory ; but it is said that no slaves are to be
purchased here, as it is a species of traffic
which the natives hold in abhorrence. This
port is also left in a very defenceless state ;
there being only a rude redoubt, and forty
soldiers for its security.
The government of Cabo del Gado com*
116 COAST AND INT£RIOR OF
prebends the islands of Querimba. one of
which named Ibo, is the residence of the
governor, with one hundred and fifty
soldiers, and an administrator of the
finances. These islands were formerly very
productive, but owing to the continual
depredations of the Jacalvas of Mada-
gascar, they have been reduced to a desert.
The custom-house duties^ and other
revenues of Mozambique produced, in
the year 1 816, which was a fair average^
46,408,265 reis ; the total expenses of the
establishment were 128,853,781, including
the pay of the troops (which was 27,471,1S4
reis,) and that of the civil officers and
clergy, (19,231,362 reis.)
I am indebted to the Viscoimt Santarem
for a sight of the custom-house reports of
the exportations and importations, between
Lisbon and the colonies of Western Africa^
as given in the Appendix, but since the
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 117
principal commerce is carried on between
Angola and the Brazils, there are, of course,
no returns of the same at Lisbon, and there-
fore we have not the means of estimating
the total amount of the products and
supplies.
I am obliged to the Count Linharez for
the perusal of a manuscript memoir of
D'Anville which embodies all the informa-
tion imparted to him by the Portuguese
government, through their ambassador at
the French court, M. da Cunha, in order
that he might construct a distinct map of
this part of Africa.
The following extracts are the most im-
portant parts of this memoir ; but it must
be borne in mind, during the perusal, that
the dismemberment of the empire of Mo-
fapa had not at this time taken place. It
is remarked that in the months of March,
April, and May, the current from Ca]:>e
1 18 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
Lopez runs towards the south, so that it is
easy to sail down that coast ; but as during
the other seasons, the current runs to the
north, while the sea is driven by the wind
in the opposite quarter, the navigation to
the south can only be effected against wind
and tide. There are two rainy seasons,
the great one lasts five months, viz. April,
May, June, July, and August, during which
it rains almost every day, and this forms
the winter of those countries. During the
months of September and October, the
rain is less frequent, and that season may
be considered as the spring; from that
time to the end of March there is no rain
whatever.
The kingdom of Loando is very consi-
derable, and tiie inhabitants pretend that
their ancestors were called Bramas. From
the other natives we leam that the country
was formerly divided among several distinct
«
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 119
tribes, who were all cannibals, like their
neighbours of the interior ; and lived in
a constant state of hostility with each othen
After a long war betwieen the different
chiefs, Mani-Loango, or Prince Loango^
proved the strongest, and succeeded in
reducing all the rest to his authority.
Between Cape Sette and Cape Lope^,
are the provinces of Gobbi and Can^ma ;
the former is very much intersected by lakes
and marshes, and the principal town is one
day's journey from the sea. Next to Ma-
jumba, is the province of Calungo, which is
both large and considerable. Two leagues
to the south of the mountains of Loando is
the mouth of the river Quila, which aftef
meandering through a very fertile country,
discharges itself into the sea with a great
noise. This river forms the boundary of
Calungo, and divides it from the province of
Loango, where the capital of the kin^om
120 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
of Loando is situated^ called in the negrd
language Boarie, but more commonly
Loango. This city stands in. four degrees
and a half of south latitude, and at the. dis-
tance of one league and a half from the sea-
It is large and the seat of royalty. The
other provinces of Loando, are Piri, which
also is considerable, and Loando Mogo ;
and there is another province adjoining the
latter, which is divided among petty chiefs,
who acknowledge the king of Loango as
their superior. These . negroes trade in
ivory, also in copper, tin, lead and iron,
which they obtain from mines at some ^ dis-
tance ; but the copper they get in the moun-
tains of Sundy, one of the dependencies of
Congo. The ivory, which is very beautiful,
they procure in Pakameala, or Bokkemale,
at the distance of one hundred and fifty
leagues, east or. north-east of the coast.
The trade between Loando and Tombo^
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 121
Sundy and Mousol, the capital of the An-
zicaino, would be much more flourishing,
were is not that the Jagas, who are both
robbers and cannibals, infest the roads.
The air is so unwholesome in Pombo,
that if a stranger travels by moonlight,
his head swells to a considerable size. The
natives of this district carry on a very ex-
tensive traffic with several countries, and
even to a considerable distance. They
purchase slaves and Matomba stuff's in
Fungeno, a kingdom lying to the east of
Cundi and Ocango, and which is said to be
tributary to Macecoi, whither also the inha*
bitants of the great state of Niniamai are
reported to resort for trade. The Portu-
guese send their Pomberos, for the pur-
chase of slaves and ivory, into Anzico
and Mossol ; the former kingdom, which
is very powerful, being situated to the
122 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
north of the Zayre^ behind Loango and
Congo.
The great river which has its source in
Manica is navigable, and the natives who
live at some distance, transport upon it
their merchandize into that country, which
is about setenty leagues from the sea.
At the upper part^ only two days' journey
from the fronti^s of Mianica, is the city
where the Quiteve or king of the river, and
of the country of Sbfala resides. It is
called Zimbao, that being the distinctive
appellation in this country for the capital
of every kingdom, where the sovereign
holds his court. The Portuguete have two
fairs in Manica, for the convenience of
trade, and where the merchants of Sofala
and Sena carry on their traffic, or in their
own language where they " purchase gold.'*
On the bordensi of tibie great river last men*
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 123
tidned are two empires, the territories of
the one extending along its banks from
the sea, to a great distance are called
Botonga, and those of the other, which are
situate north and east of the rirer, go under
the general name of Bororos. The princi^
pal island of the Zambeze is near Sena,
and called Imbragona : it is ten leagues in
length and one and a half in its greatest
breadth : very fertile, but subject to inun^-
dations from the overflowing of the riven
Sena is between forty and fifty leagues dis-
tant from the kingdom of Manica, the
intervening soverei^ties being Baroe and
Macumbe, which lie opposite to Sena..
On the other side of the Zambeze, seven or
eight leagues inland^ is a very high mouil«*
tain, well peopled and fertile, called Cfaing,
at the foot of which flows a beautiful stream^
said to be an arm of the Suabo. a riv^ WBXh
124 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
celebrated in this part of the world, and bj
which the Caflfres and Portuguese of Sena
carry on their commerce. This river falls
into the Zambeze ten leagues below Sena.
The fort of Tete is said to be sixty leagues
from Sena ; and at about half the distance,
the river has forced a way through a chain of
lofty mountains, which are four or five leagues
broad and extend to a great length, whence
the Caffres.call them Lupata, or the spine
of the world. Bordering upon Sena on
the southern bank of the river is the small
nation of the Mongas, whose king has
always preserved himself independent of the
empire of Motapa. Opposite to this state,
and at the foot of the mountains eastward of
the river, is a lake, called Rufumbo by the
Cafixes : it is three miles in circumference,
and in the middle of it is a very high and
steep island.
From Tete we penetrate into the interior
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 125
of Motapa, and enter the kingdom of
Munhai, which is the patrimony of the
hereditary prince. The remoter territories of
Motapa are comprehended under the gene-
ral name of Mocararya, distinguishing that
only which borders upon the river by the
appellation of Botonga. Mocarai'ya ex-
tends into the kingdoms of Manica, Sofala,
and Sabia, which are dismemberments of
the Motapan empire, and were formerly all
united to Mocararya, till the emperor
thought proper to erect them into separate
governments for his three younger sons^
and the names adopted by the descendants
are said to have been those of the princes,
who founded the kingdoms.
Of two fairs, which we are told have
no longer an existence, one was Luanza,
about thirty-five leagues to the south
of Tete, between two small rivers, that
form a junction and then ' fall into the,
126 C08AT AND INTERIOR OF
Man^ora^ which discharges its collected
waters into the Zambeze. The second
was Bocuto, thirteen leagues from Luanza
in a straight line, and situated, like that
place, between two streams that unite
with the Mangora, at the distance of about
half a league from the town. In these
places, gold and provisions were formerly
plentiful ; and in both the religious order of
Dominicans once had churches. At the
distance of fifty leagues from Tete, ten from
Bocuto, and half a day's journey from the
Mazzora^ stands the village of Massapa,
which was once the principal of the Portu-*
guese fairs ; and though it is no longer so, an
officer of that nation still resides there with
the title of captain of the ports ; because
opposite to this place are the gold mines.
Near this is the great mountain, of Fura,
which is so abundant in the precious
metal, that some have affirmed it to>be the
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. iSt
Ophir, from whence Solomon drew his
wealth. However this may be, it must be ob-
served:that at the presenlrday, hewn stones
may be. traced in the mountain of Fura,
which were formerly, it is said, piled upon
each other with great art, and yet without
lime. .This in the interior of Cafiraria, is tlie
more extraordinary, and worthy of notice,
because ill that country all the buildings,
and even the palaces, not excepting those
of Motapa, are constructed only of wodd
and clay. It is, Cherefore, evident that this
mountain was at some remote period, fre--
quented and. tenanted by tribes more
powerful and skilful than the pres^it inha-
bitants ; and probably long before it was
known to the Arabs of Quiloa and Mozam-
bique, who were the predecessors of the
Portuguese in the commerce of the country.
From the mountain of Fura flows the
river Mazaras, which in its course carries
1%/^ CQA3X AUD XlfTBKlOB. QB
^wngfild mxtd with: its. tfand. At thirty^
fi?9 l^i^es : distbBce. firoia 'Massa()a is the
9cjte of Dambarad;^ whiiph -wa^ once a faii^
fojc.gpld{ and fouriday^' journey beyond it
%9j&fi north is:aoother rained seat of trade,
c^U^d Li^el These two: placeis were de-
8trpy0d;ia Hb^emher I6939 by a Cafii^e
general, naiaed:Ghangamera-
, J^<md the dountryof mhies is the kidg-^
dQQii of Chieoya; which : aibpniids in pro-*
yi^ns^ thoughiWfiNDdk. scarce^ owing td
the gc»erAljatenpi(m0f;i3)c^e fields a
tqrag^ fot\ oattLsi} To the west ol? this
teriitory^ace Rupaindeand Shangra^ fiett
to whidi ibt i ^lei lacge kihgdam of Abatua^
Intef$a»iedding;thet^Zabibfz6 :fr<)ni Tete,
^ yre. are ticAd^ there is a irillage^named ikn^
pango, situated iat 89rae distance abo vie that
place, «ad on the same J^ank of the riven
Ott conditiuing our course nae Teach the
kingdom of Jamube, where it is said, the
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 129
Jesuits have a church. At this part of the
river, and at the distance of thirty leagues
from Tete, is a rock which crosses the
channel, and completely interrupts navi-
gation. Similar impediments occur from
the quantity of rocks, for the space of
twenty leagues, but at Chicova the river
again becomes navigable, though to what
extent is unknown, and it is only conjec-
tured that the source is very remote. The
kingdom of Chicova, which lies north-west
of Motapa, along the Zambeze, is famous
for its rich silver mines, though Francisco
Barreto, the first settler, could not disco-
ver them. The state of Motapa is flou-
rishing on the Materam side of the river ;
but it is surpassed by Abutua which runs,
it is said, to the confines of Angola. In
this kingdom is a large river, probably
the Cumene, which rises east of Benguela,
and by which the western negroes, sup-
K
130 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
posed to be natives of that country, or An-
gola, descend to a particular station. Hav-
ing traced the empire of Motapa, which
in foUowing the Zambeze from the sea,
is on the left of that river, we arrive at
that of BororQs on the right. On this side of
the Zambeze are two considerable states,
opposite to the forts of Sena and Tete ;
the first is the nation of the Zimbas or
Mazimbas, whose extensive territories lie
chiefly towards the north ; the other king-
dom to the westward is Mumbo ; and one
of its villages, over against Tete, is called
Chic6ringo. At a great distance north-
east of the latter fort of the Portuguese,
is a considerable river, bearing the name
of Mangaza, and remarkable for a salt
spring which flows into it. The empire
of the Bororos, it should seem, is com-
posed of several petty sovereignties, and it
has been lately asserted that the principal
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 131
of these takes its name from a town called
Maravi, which is little more than sixty
leagues north of Tete. At the short dis-
tance of half a league from this town is
a lake, which winds in a north north-east
direction, being four or five leagues wide,
and in some places more ; but its length
far exceeds the breadth, as it is known to
reach Mombaca, and there is reason to
suppose that it extends still farther. It is
observable that the negroes, or the Moors,
on the coast of Melinda, have mentioned
a great lake, the position of which, ac-
cording to their account, corresponds pretty
nearly with the situation which this lake
occupies in several maps ; the probability,
therefore, is that they are one and the same.
However this may be, some idea may be
formed of the extent of the present lake,
from the conjecture of Jesuit missionaries
that it communicates with Abyssinia. Fa-
132 COAST AND INTERIOR OF
ther Luis Marianna, of that order, who for-
merly resided at Tete, recommended an
expedition of discovery on this lake, in
a letter addressed to the government at
Goa, and which is still preserved among
the public archives of that city.
In this paper he says, that the route
was practicable, because the banks of the
lake abounded in millet, and provisions,
as well as in ivory ; and that almadies or
canoes may be easily procured ; that fish
is plentiful ; and that the general depth of
the water is from eight to ten Mioms. It
was only necessary for the expedition, he
says, to have five or six bales of cloth,
a quantity of glass beads, and about forty
persons, in an equal proportion of whites
and blacks. Lastly, it was recommended
that the navigation should commence in
March, April, or May, because in that
season the westerly winds prevails on the
CONGO, ANGOLA, AND BENGUELA. 183
lake, as well as on the coast of Mozam-
bique. In addition to the inducements for
such an undertaking, it was stated that
numerous uninhabited isles are scattered
along the lake, which would afford occa-
sional shelter to those who engaged in the
attempt to explore it.
Another curious circumstance respect-
ing this lake is, that it has been pointed
out in the western part of Africa, by the
native merchants of Pombo do Congo, the
farthest country of Congo. According to
their account, about sixty days' journey
from their residence, and by constantly
keeping to the east, they came to a great
body of water, interspersed with a pro-
digious number of islands; which, how-
ever, these travellers represent as being
peopled by negroes, with whom men of
a brown colour came to traffic from the
east. They add also that this great lake
134 CONGO^ &c.
is to the east of the kingdom of Nineanai,
the sovereign of which, who calls himself
Manu-Emugi, is a neighbour of Macoco.
Fifteen days' journey from Maravi, is the
kingdom of Massy, and about fifteen more
journies beyond that, on approaching the
height of Mombuca, is the kingdom of
Ruengas.
NOTES.
On the Plants of Mozambique.
THE list of plants found in Mozambique by Loureiro,
daring his short stay there, and published in his ** Flora
Chinensis/^ is incomplete in number, for it compre-
hends only forty-three species; besides which, it is so
defective in other respects, particularly in omitting the
season when they were found, the extent of surface
traversed in collecting them, and the heights where
they grew, that nothing satisfactory can be gathered
from the descriptions, nor an adequate idea be formed
of the greater divirions of the vegetable productions in
thb country. The number of families amounts, accord-
ing to this naturalist, to twenty-two, besides a few
genera, of which no description occurs in the botanical
works I possess, or too concise an one to refer them to
136 ON THE PLANTS OF MOZAMBIQUE.
any natural order. The greater number of species are
oontained in the RubracesB and Leguminos», of which
last it is remarkable that there are neither Acacise nor
Mimosse. The Corypha appears to be the only palm
hitherto found elsewhere in Africa; and the Borassus
of Mozambique has probably been conveyed thither
from India. It is singular that no comparison can be
made between this list, and that of the plants of Congo,
where we might naturally look for a similarity. Indeed
the vegetation at Mozambique, with the exception of
about four genera, seems to assume a totally different
character from what distinguishes the western side of
the same continent.
. '-.■ ."■' ■ '• •■■■■w.v" •"* 'r li.'i'j iNuiiM^ « Hji^i LwmiiminivHfpiiipi^ MM - j y iw ^w ^g n ^
I
\
O^ Me Bunda Language.
IT is said that the Buuda langaage,* which is most
general on the side of Angola, originated in Casdange,
and that it was afterwards introduced by invaders
into the districts of Ambaca, Qnilongo, Icolo, and
Bengo. This tradition receives support from the cir-
cumstance, that whilst the language is so widely
spread through the countries of the interior, it only
extends along the coast, between forty and fifty leagues,
or from the river Lifune to the Coanza. The name
also furnishes a corroboration of this account, for
Abundo or Bundo, denotes a conqueror, both in the
dialect of Congo, and that of Angola, whereas the
designation of the kingdom, near the coast where it is
the vernacular tongue is Dongo; and the people of
Congo, who assert that they were the nation originally
dispossessed of that part of the country, still call
theinselves Mucha Congo, or Acha Congo, which
* See Camiecattim's Introductions to his Grammar and to his
Dictionary.
140 ON THE BUNDA LANGUAGE.
The Congoese is the vernacular tongue, from the
river lifune to CSape Catherine, lying north of the
kingdom of Loango, throughout the whole of which
country it is also spoken, as the Portuguese ascer-
tained in their expedition by land to Cabonda in
1784.
The principal characteristic of the Bunda language
is, that the singular and plural of their nouns, and the
voices, tenses, and persons of their verbs, are distin-
guished by prefixes instead of terminations. Diminu-
tives are formed by placing ca before a word, as caconga,
a little kingdom, camanat a little son. An augmenta-
tion is expressed by a repetition of the latter syllable
of the adjective, as riata quine-ne, a great man, riata
quinene-nene^ a very great man. Sometimes superiority
is denoted by the adjective fmiene, " the same ;" — as
riata muene, '* he is the same man," meaning that he is
J uniform in all things. The article in this language
varies in case and number, but not in gender, as
6 riata, " the men," rio riata, " of the men ;" co mala,
** the men," quia mala, ** of the men ;" ria mugatta,
" of the women," co agatta, " the women." The
nouns have six cases, and the demonstrative pronouns
five, all of which are distinguished by the article.
ON THE BUNDA LANGUAGE. 141
The verb has a distinct, active, and passive voice,
three conjugations, four moods, a gerund, and a
declinable participle. The indicative has a present,
perfect, and future tense ; and the subjunctive the
same, virith the addition of a second future. Little use
is made of the neuter verb, cuia ; but the language
is abundant in prepositions, adverbs, and conjunc-
tions.
The missionary Cannecattim, who was a man of very
superior endowments, composed a Grammar of the
Bunda Language, which is very complete, and occupies
one hundred and forty-eight pages, with a compendious
Dictionary of the Sonho dialect of the Congo Tongue,
in about seventy pages. His Dictionary of the Bunda
Language, is also a small quarto, and contains seven
hundred and twenty pages, having each three columns
of words, the first, Portuguese, the second, Latin, and
the third, Bunda.*
* The titles of these works are CoUec^as de Observac6es
Grammaticaes Sobre a Lingua Bunda ou Angolense, Lisboa,
1805. Diccianario da Lingua Bmida oa Angolense, per Fr.
Cannecattim, Prefeito das Missoes de Angola e Congo. Lidboa,
1804.
142 ON THE BUNDA LANGUAGE.
Cannecattim in his mission to Mahnnga, where he
converted to the Christian Faith, the, king Quissequi
and all his family, learnt that in the Moolooa country,
were several extensive lakes, and deep rivers which
were navigated by the people, who lived on the north-
eastern parts of that territory ; he was also informed
that Mousol the capital of Makoko, sometimes called
Anzico after its king, is about three hundred leagues
from the coast. The same author says, that it is one
hundred and eighty leagues from St* Paul to Cahenda,
the farthest religious establishment of the Portuguese
inland, and lying on the southern frontier of Mahunga ;
but he adds that they have a factory or fair in Cassange
at the distance of five hundred leagues from the former
settlement. It was generally asserted and believed that
two soldiers had deserted from the garrison at Benguela,
and made their way inland to Mozambique.
As the slaves from Moolooa, the position of which
has been corrected by Count Saldanha's mission, acquire
the Bunda language, almost immediately on their arrival
in Angola, there can be no doubt of its bearing a
near affinity to their native tongue. The Bunda is
also the language of Libolo, but the Quisamas speak
that of Benguela, which although radically different
ON THE BUNDA LANGUAGE. 143
contains an intermixture of Bunda words ; and the
term Bengnela for instance signifies in Bunda, *' de-
fence." libolo and Quisama were formerly united
under the title of the kingdom Matamao.
.r,
APPENDIX
ON THE TRADE OF LISBON,
WITH THE
PORTUGUESE SETTLEMENTS,
IN AFRICA,
IN THE YEARS 1803 and 1804.
Alluded to in page 116.
148
IMPORTS ftom ANGOLA into LISBON, in the Year 1B08.
Reis.
Brought over .2,336,00^
-v.>. -•
Carried forward 2,386^0
149
EXPORTS from LISBON to ANGOLA; in (be Yew 1809.-
y.
• I
Reis.
Brought over 130,539,222
Silks amounting to 1,835,890
NATIONAL MANUFACTURES.
Reis.
Cotton Cloths* 11,833,000
Woollen Cloths . . • . 4,900,100
8,193 Varas of Linen Cloth . . . 3,073,200
3,107 Covados Silks 1,090,740
Gold and Silver ornaments . 50,400
Sundries t ....... 15,935,215
36,882,655
In 1804, 45,691,565.
FROM ASIA.
2,452 Pieces Borralhos 480 to 960 1,455,360
10,421 Cad6as 1,600 to 6,000 39,869,800
1,889 Nankeens 1,600 to 5,400 3,069,400
13,027 Chillas, & Coromandeis 62,549,000
3,138 Prin. Calic. 800 to 1,500 4,097,400
1,645 Blankets .... 2,000 3,290,000
1,313 Pounds Spices 1,617,600
587 Pieces Garrazes . . 5,000 2,935,000
Carried forward 118,883,560 , 169,257,767
In 1804, 260,541,020.
*2,427 Pieces Nankeens 970,920 tl,916 Assorted Hats 2,244,300
32,579 Yds. Prtd. Cftls. 784 Arrobas Gunpow. 12,320,000
180 to 440 8,425,390 Glass 631,420
4,109 Assorted Hand- SuntlricK 733,495
kerchiefs 1,210,300 15,935,21^
Sundries 1,217,390
11,8^,000
15Q
IMPORTS fimn ANGOLA into LISBON, in the Year 1803.
Brought over 2,836,000
Carried forward 2,$b6«000
161
VXPOKtS from LISBON Ur ANOOLA, m tbe Tettr IMO.
Reis.
Brought over 1(19,2579767
Reis.
Asiatic Articles . , . . 118,883,660
tft ,JI7^ Huidkerchiefs, viz :
23,999 Fine do. 400 to 600 . ^ ^^ ^^^
^ ? 26,084,860
63,974 Commoii 200 to 350 .- 5 ' '
Earthenware, value .... 849,900
18,133 Pieces Cloths for the Slave
Markets 21,671,600
6,856 Pieces Stripes and Linens . 11,062,100
13,287 Zuartes 3,300 to 4,800 . . 61,205,100
Sundries 1,121,200
240,878,320
METALS.
3,794 Pounds Copper basons . 495 1 ,878,030
286^ Quint8.of assorted Lead. 8690 2,489,685
2,159 Muskets 4,000 8,636,000
* Hardware ...... 10,651,400
r- 23,655,115
In 1804, 41,347,880.
Drugs amounting to 1,572,120
Carried forward 435,363,322
*8,028 Doz. Knives and Forks 4,875,600
44} Quintals of Iron in Bars 535,500
545 Dozens of Razors . . 852,800
Sundry Articles of Haidware 4,387,500
10,651,400
152
IMPOETS firom ANGOLA to USBON, in the Year 1803.
Reis.
Brought over 2,336,000
Balance of commerce between Lisbon and Angola,
and in favomr of the former, owing to exciess of '
exportation, via 476,i63,01»
480,780,012
* ■ \
153
I
EXPORTS from LISBON to ANGOLA, in the Year 1803.
Brought over 4S5^de&,S22
SUNDRY GOODS.
25,606 Bundles Glass beads, &c. . . 36,488,750
778 Doz. looking glasses^ assorted . 1,194,000
1,985 Reams of Paper 800 to 4,000 . 1,929,550
Ready made Clotiung . . . 1,550^800
Sundries 4,256,590
45,425,690
In 1804, 62,548,120.
480,789,012
164
IBfPORTS from CAPE D£ VERD to LISBON, in the
Year 1803.
lUif.
4,e00 Arrobas of Barilla, at 1000 4,600,000
14 Ajrobas of Wax 7,000 •«..•. 96,000
Balance of TVade between Lisbon and Cape de
Verd, in faTOur of the former, owing to excess
of exportation 2,343,930
7,041,930
155
EXPORTS from LISBON to CAPE DE VERD, in the
Year 1803.
ReU. Reis.
10 Pipes of Brandy, at . 169,000 1,590,000
8 Wine .... 72,000 576,000
Sundry Provisions 375,000
2,541,000
Woollens, 739 Covados of Serge, &c 991,700
Woollens, value of 168,010
Silks amounting to 147,240
NATIONAL MANUFACTURES.
Cotton Cloths 161,200
Sundries, 62 Hats, Buttons, &c. . • . 135,160
296,360
FROM ASIA.
75 Boxes of Tea and 42 Pieces of Sundry Goods . 256,600
METALS.
200 Quintals of Iron, in bars, and other Hardware 1,880,530
Sundry Goods, value of 759,890
7,041,930
156
IMPORTS from BISSAO, CACHEU, and BENGCJELLA
to LISBON, in the Year 1803.
There were no direct entries.
c
157
EXPORTS from XISBOX to BISSAO, CACHBU, and
BENGUELLA, in the Year 1803.
PROVISIONS.
Reis. Reis.
219 Pipes of Brandy, at . 159,000 34,821,000
130 Arrobas of Chocolate . 9,600 1,248,000
160 Barrels of Molasses . . 13,200 1,980,000
21 Pipes of VTine . . . 72,000 1,512,000
Sundry Provisions 2,009,050
41,570,050
Gold and Silver ornaments 1,369,950
WOOLLENS.
29,350i Yards of Baize, at . . 650 19,077,825
339 Dozen of Caps, . . 3000 1,017,000
Sundry Serges . : . . . 713,800
20,808,625
LINENS.
1,311 Pes. of Frh. Cloth 2,310 to 5,000 3,073,590
German Cloths, Ducks, <&;c. . 1,352,450
4,426,040
SILKS.
Value of this Article 151,200
NATIONAL MANUFACTURES.
Cotton Cloths, Printed Calicoes, &c. 5,142,460
Woollens, Coarse Cloths, &c. . . . 1,279,900
Sundry Goods* 16,458,240
22,880,600
Carried forward 91,206,465
•752 Hats 537,600
957 Arrobas of Gunpowder .... 15,312,000
Sundry Goods ..*.... 608,640
16,458,240
168
IMPORTS fk«Bi BIB8AO, OACHBU, aod BENGVBU^
to LISBON, in dM Year 1809.
160
EXPDBTO from US90N to BISSAO> GACH3BU, add
BBNGUBI.LA, in die Year 1803.
Reis.
Brought over 91,206^465
FROM ASIA.
Reis.
273 Pieces of Bafetds at 3,800 1,037,400
6,235 Cad6as 1,600 to 5,000 30,533,800
540 Cassodis 2,200 . . 1,188,000
1,037 Printed Calicoes 1,000 to 3,500 1,720,000
6,935 Chillas and Coromandels . . 33,899,800
1,785, Quilts, 4, at 4,000 ... > ^ ,
? 3,502,000
1,781, at 1,200 to 2,000 3 '
21,545 Handkerchiefs 200 to 480 . . 7,661,860
8,653 Pieces of Cloth for the Slave
Market 10,323,400
10,945 Zuartes . . 3,300 to 4,800 50,500,000
Sundry Goods 4,819,320
145,185,580/
METALS.
2,538 lbs. of Pewter Basons, at 495 1,256,310
35^ Quintals assorted Lead 8,690 308,495
7,316 Muskets and Pistols .... 29,556,800
1,824 Quintals of Iron, in Bars, and
Anchors 12,767,100
3,990 Fra^ados 700 2,793,000
Sundry Hardware 3,706,400
50,388,105
Drugs amounting to * . • . 440,790
Carried forward 287,220,940
160
IMPORTS <rom BI8SA0, CACBEU, and BENOUELLA,
to LiaeON, in the Year 180S.
Reis.
Balance of Trade between Lisbon, and the aforesaid
places, and in favour of tbe former . . . 346|231,870
346,231,870
161
EXPORTS from LISBON to BISSAO, CACHEU, and
BENGUELLA, in the Year 1803.
Reis.
Brought over 287,220^940
SUNDRY GOODS.
Reisi
25,015 Bundles of Glass Beads, drc. . 11,197,250
900 Bottles 4,000 3,600,000
1,073 Reams of Paper 300 to 2,000 2,037,200
269 Arrobas of British Gunpowder
1,100 2,959,000
Cloths <& Household Pumiture 1 ,118,180
Other Sundry Goods .... 1,532,900
14,064 Arrobas of Tobacco . 2,600 36,566,400
59,010,930
346,231,870
M
I6i
COMMERCE of LISBON, ^th the Markets of WESTERN-
AFRICA, in the Year 1603.
Reifl.
Balance of Trade between Lisbon, and the abore
places, and resulting in favor of the former . 8t7,028,812
827,028,812
The Trade carried on with the African settlements, is always in our
favor, the balance being for us, as may be seen by the balance from
1796, up to the present time. It ought nevertheless to be observed, that
a real entry is wanting from Angola, Bissao, and Cacheu, in conse-
qnence of these places carrying on their Slave Trade through Rio de
Janeiro, Bahla, and Maranham, from whence some articles are received,
such as ivory, wax, &c. without any distinction having been made of
them. The greatest export articles, are Asiatic goods, amounting nearly
to a million, and this export was less compared with 1802, to the amount
of 100,000 cruzados.
163
OOMMERCE of LISB0t7, with the Markets of WESTERN
AFRICAi in the Year 1803.
Reisi Reis.
With Angola, being amount of Exports
from Lisbon , . 480,789,012
By value of Imports 2,336,000
478,463,012
With Cape de Verd, being the amount
of Exports from Lisbon .... 7,041,930
By Imports 4^098,000
— 2,343,930
With Bissao, Benguella, and Cacheu,
by amount of Exports 346,231»870
827,028,812
The Exports from Lisbon to the settlements in Western Africa,
amounted to 2,085,000 cmzados, and 02,812 reis ; and the Importation
from Africa to Lisbon, to 17,000 cmzados, and 234,000 reis; the balance
resulting in favor of Lisbon, being 2,067,000 cmzados^ and 228,812 reis
equal to OQJ per cent.
164
TRADE of LISBON, with the ASIATIC SETTLEMENTS
Generally, in the Year 1803.
IMPORTS from ASIA into LISBON.
ASIATIC PRODUCE.
Reis. Reis.
159,896 Pds. of Cinnamon 55 to 150 20,555,280
282,581 Tea
35,787 Gunpowder Tea, at 600 1 ^^^ ^«« „^^
^ ^ > 139,933,320
246,794 Common Tea, at • 480 5
1,035,698 Pounds of Pepper 100 103,569,800
5,378^ Quintals of Salt-
petre . . 5,000 26,892,500
14,600 Arrobas of Rice 500 7,300,000
2,417 • Cotton 3,840 9,281,280
Drugs, value of . . . 7,753,055
Sundries 2,948,000
- 318,233,235
Carried forward 318,233,235
165
TRADE of LISBON, with the ASIATIC SETTLEMENTS
Generally, 'm the Year 1803.
EXPORTS from LISBON to ASIA.
PROVISIONS.
Reis. Reis.
24 Pipes of Brandy, at 159,000 3>816,000
116 Ahnudes of Oil . . 4,800 556,800
200 Arrobas of White Sugar 3,390 678,000
84 Arrobas of Chocolate 9,600 806,400
Sorted Pork 1,857,220
1,696 Dutch and
Parmesan Cheeses . . 1,107,200
654 Almudes of Vinegar 1,200 784,800
446 Pipes of Wine . . 72,000 32,112,000
Sundries 507,340
r 42,225,760
GOLD AND SILVER.
Cash remitted in Portuguese cur-
rency, for the purchase of
Goods 80,000,000
In Articles for ornament . . . 344,100
In hard Dollars 867,500,000
947,844,100
Bills drawn upon Rio Janeiro, to
which place Four Vessels
repaired, calculated at the
rate of 200,000 cruzados
each 320,000,000
1,267,844,100
Carried forward 1,310,069,860
400)
^^^} 163,018,106
166
TRADE of USBON, with the ASIATIC SETTLBIMEBNTS
Generally, in the Year 1803.
IMPORTS from ASIA into LISBON.
Reis.
Brought over 318,933,23ai
ASIATIC MANUFACTURES.
Rds.
274,691 Pes. of Baf^tas, at 2,400 659,2^,400
136,881 Cadeas, 680 to 9,200 128,890,080
368,742 Nankeens
327,919 Common, at 400
40,823 Fme, 700 at2,
98,098 Cassas, 2,200
to 40,000 559,842,800
25,719 Chillas 1,800 to 2,200 55,028,600
100,778 Printed Calicoes,
&c. 400 to 700 62,779,300
4,798 Quilts . 400 to 10,000 4,438,520
70,029 Garrazes 1,800 126,052,200
1,312,176 Handkerchiefs
6,665 Fine . • 400 to 800 >
, o^e en. r. -•^^x « rlB9,045,080
1,305,511 Coarse . 100 to 300 3
China, value , . , . 105,914,870
2,359 Pieces of Perica6s 1,400
to 3,000 3,742,600
56,522 Cloth for the
Slave Market . . . 33,913,500
35,039 Zuartes, 1,600
to 2,575 88,055,845
Sundry Cloths
Japanned Articles, &c. . 8,132^000
2,188,111,895
Carried forward 2,506,345,130
167
TRADE of LISBON, wHh the ASIATie SETTLEMENTS
Generally, in the Year 1803.
EXPORTS from LISBON to ASIA.
Rei8«
BroHght over 1,310,069,860
Woollen Stuffs, 11,787 Coyados of Baize, &c. • . 7,974,350
Linens 262,200
Silks, 340 Coyados of Camblet, <&c 452,800
PRODUCE OF NATIONAL MANUFACTURES.
Silk Ribbons 270,000
Gold and Silver ornaments . . . • 950,860
Sundries, 855 Hats, &c 1,911,940
3,132,800
METALS. I,
27^ Quintals of Steel, at . 14,000 385,000
1,250 Musquets 4,000 5,000,000
2,871 Quintals of Iron in bars 7,000 20,097,000
Small Hardware 994,295
26,476,295
Drugs amounting to 1,028,560
\
Carried forward 1,849,396,865
I«8
TRADE of LISBON, with the ASIATIC SETTLEMENlTS
Generally^ in the Year 1803.
IMPORTS from ASIA into USBON,
Reis.
Brought oyer. 2|506,345,13O
2,506,345,130
The Imports from the Asiatic Settlements into Lisbon, amounted to
6,265,000 cruzados, and 345,130 reis; and the Exports for Asia to
3,648,000 cruzados, and 294,802 reis ; leaving a balance against Lisbon,
of 2,617,000 cruzados, and 50,328 reis, equal to 41] per cent
169
TRADE of LISBON, with the ASIATIC SETTLJ^MENTS
Generally, in the Year 1803.
EXPORTS from LISBON to ASIA.
Reis.
Brought over 1,349,396,865
SUNDRY ARTICLES.
Reis.
2,177 Pounds of Coral
1,952 Round, at . . . 5,500 7
225 Ordinary . . . 4,800 3 '^^'^^^'^^
Books, value 818,487
1,792 Bundles > ^, „ ^
1,294 Arrobas } ^^"^^ ^^*^" • »>221,550
44,437 Reams of Paper, at 2,000
to 4,000 87,428,000
' Sundries 813,900
110,097,937
1,459,494,802
Balance of Commerce between Lisbon, and the
Settlements in Asia, being in favor of the
latter 1,046,850,328
2,506,345,130
The above is the greatest Importation that has taken place since the
year 1796; and although certain circumstances prevent this trade from
becoming of greater advantage to Portugal than it is, nevertheless we
derive from it an increase to our Navy, and an employment in the
printing of goods; we procure spices, which we re-export to foreign
countries, and we put a stop to the heavy importation of German cloths
from Hamburgh, by the adoption of pur own printed cottons, and some
otherarticles weaved in our manufactures, all which are in great demand
for our American and African Settlements.
The prices at which the goods and other articles coming from Asia^
are charged, comprehend only their prime cost in the markets in which
tfiey were purchased, exclusively of excessive freights, insurances, and
commissions, which charges are to the advantage of the Trade of Lisbon.
17Q
TRADE of LISBON, with the Markets of ASIA, In Hk^
Year 1804.
IMPORTS from ASIA into LISBON.
Reis.
2,169,263,324
2,169,263,324
In 1:804, the Portuguese procured Moea Co£fee from Asia, and the
following is the list of Drugs.
Indigo*
Assafoetida.
Sulphur.
Gum Arabic.
Ginger.
Incense.
Myrabolam.
Columbo Root.
Rhubarb.
Tamarinds.
I took tiie opportunity of copying this report of their commerce with
Ana, tbinkiilg it might be interesting*
171
TBAPB^ USBONi with the Marketa of A&lAf m die
Year 1804,
EXPORTS from LISBON to ASIA.
Reis*
1,868,129,040
DRUGS.
Amount thereof • r » • 4,274,570
SUNDRY GOODS.
Reis.
Glass Beads, &c 4 9,249,050
4,044 Pounds of Coral
3,889 Round ditto, at . 6,000 "> ^
' . ^ .'^^ ? 24,109,000
155 Common • . • 5,000 5
Books 710,200
$22,644 Reams of Paper 2,000 to 7,000 32,138,000
Sundry Goods 3,445,660
69,651,910
1,942,056,420
Balance of Commerce between Lisbon and the Set-
tlements in Asia, and in favor of the latter,
owing to excess of Exportation • . • • 227,206,904
2,169,263,324
The Importations from Asia in general into Lisbon, were 5,423,obo
crazados, 63,324 reis; and the Exports to Asia were 4,855,000 cruzados,
and 56,420 reis, leaving a balance against Lisbon, and in favor of the
Asiatic settlements, of 568,000 cruaados, 6,904 reis, equal to 10} pw cent.
The prices at which the goods and other articles coming from Asia are
■charged, comprehend only their prime cost in the markets in which they
were purchased, and exclusive of excessive freights, ins^iruices, and
commissions, which charges are io the advantage of the Trade of Lisbob.
172
COBIMERCE of tke KmODOM of PORTUGAL, widi the
SETTLEMENTS m WESTERN AFRICA, in the Year 1804.
Reis.
Balance of Trade between Portugal, and Western
Africa, and m farour of the former . . B76|251,710
876,261,710
The exports from Portugal to the settlements in Western Africa,
amponted to 2,261,000 cruzados, and 380,750 reis; and the imports
from Africa into Lisbon to 71,000 crazados, and 129,040 reis ; leaying
a balance in fayor of Lisbon of 2,190,000 cruzados, and 261,710 reis,
equal to 9^ per cent
173
COMM£R<p£ of Ae KINGDOM of PORTUGAL, widi th^
SETTUaMENTS in WESTERN AFRICA, in tbe Year 1804.
Reifl. Reifl*
With Angola, amount of Exports from
Lisbon and^ Oporto • • . • 586,978,145
Amount of Imports 7,307,800
579,670,345
With Cape de Verd, amount of Exports
from Lisbon and Oporto . . • 34,037,510
Amount of Imports 8,961,240
25,076,270
With Bissao, Benguella, and Cacheu,
amount of Exports .... 283,765,095
By Imports 12,260,000
271,505,095
876,251,710
The following Note by Mr. Bowdich^ upon an
error in Park's last Journaiy having nwer been
published^ and being of considerable importance
to African Geography y the Editor has thought
right to introdtcce it in the present Work.
In M. Walckenaer's Recherches sur rjfrique,* we find
the following observations: " Je remarque dans ce journal
'^ una inadvertance qui a 6chapp6 d I'auteur et aux
" 6diteurs ; il y a. (p. 7.) un r6cit de ce que Mungo Park
'* a fait le 31 Avril : le mois d'Avril n'a que 30 jours,^
p. £72. This is mentioned merely as a matter, of
curiosity. It did not occur to M. Walckenaer, that the
results of Park's calculation of the observations for
latitude inade^ subsequently to that period^ were all
* Recherches G^ographiques sur Tlnt^rieur de TAfrique
Septentrionale, coroprenant I'Histoire des Voyages, entrepris ou
ex6cut6s jusqu'a ce jour, &c. &<;. Didoty Paris, 1821.
176 ON AN ERROR IN PARK's LAST JOURNAL.
affected by the error of hb having continued to reckon
his time one day too late, and, consequently to take
in every instance a wrong declination out of the Nau-
tical Almanack. The important position of Sego, for
instance, and all that part of the course of the Niger, must,
in consequence, be lowered more than a third of a degree.
Park's last mission took place in 1805, but the journal
was not published until 1815. The whole route from
Pisania, t. e. from his point of departure, is erroneously
lud down in the map constructed to accompany it, and
it has been copied in all the maps of Africa, which have
been published in Europe since that period, and in M.
Walckenaer's amongst the number.
Referring to Park's journal we find,
April 28tli. Set out for Pisania, &c.*
Sgth. Visited Camilla, &c.
30th. Schooner arrived, &c.
3 1 St. Purchased asses, &c.
May 1st. Tied and marked the bundles, &c. p. 8.
2nd. Purchased more asses and a bullock, &c.
3rd. Finished packing, &c.
4tli. Left Pisania, &c.
And thus he continues accounting for, and recording the
* Page 1, of the first or 4to. edition.
t>N AN i:ilEOB IN PARBf 8 LAST JOURNAL* 177
circumsfeaces c^ eoery day up to the end of his jouniey^
wtthoHt a single onuasioa, tso that it is evident he never
con^edod-ar even inspected bit emir*
l^tfm ittpiHMiQ ihMwe arei not, aivare of dus mistake
ia Park'st ; JoimialiL wluchi has dma; remained' fnr ^several
y#aiii)4wdiseoi^^edf>the:TCi7:.ficst'ja^onoimod olwer*
fBtiaA<May 15di^j^4fl)hetn9S lIt&^mateiice:of a eoii*
4udeid>k firi^rkabiteirh^BTOvor;«(tl^
tbedata^of ;diis. otefiration^ >biial jnendj totes^ :^f fhat at
lKdliefs'',W<ell|;(3( hours narcksioHhrwestward df the
NeaiiUcQVthelati:1iyfin8r«id!t.jQfi &e;iHe<m.ii^ \4^SiS
AST N/' Rennell determined ttlits part of :.the.Neaulico
the same which* Park crossed in bis route home in ITdSy
to be about 13^ l^" N. but Park's ob^i^ation of laititttdis
carries it up to \i?9A' 46" t. r. into Soota Tm-ra. Now
this is proved to bean errors before we discover die entry
of the. :3l3t of Aprils frooLtwa palpable contradictioas
and severtd iiiq[^birible.consei}ttenees.
The.first contradiotion is, that it makes, this part of
Paric'a.hoineward route in 1796; north, instead of south
of his outward route in the same year^ for the Kolor of
* Map of Park*]B rdut& Proeeedings^f the Afrkan Associalion,
voL L p.^dd.
N
178 ON AN ERROR IN PARk's LAST JOURNAL.
the latter, which appears to be very nearly on the same
meridian as the Neaulico, was determinecl by Park's otipn
astronomical observation to be in 13^ 49'*- It is not pos-
sible that Park could hare imagined that he was travelling
thirty-four miles soudi of his outward route, when he was
really almost a degree to the north of it ; for it requires
that Park in returning to Pisania should have re^crossed his
outward route without knowing it ; and that Karia Taura,
the experienced conductor of the slave cara^n, should
have been so ignorant of the direct route to the market,
as to have made a considerable and unnecessary circuit
northwards by Foota Torra. -
. The second contradiction which the admission of Park's
latitude of Walters' Well subjects his own account to,
is, that he must have been travelling N. E. from Pisania,
or direct to the Senegal, when his compass, and his own
previous knowledge of the route shewed, him that* he
was proceeding S. E. or towards the source of the "Niger;
for we are to recollect that Park's repeated astronomical
observations in his first journey determined Pisania to be
in 1S<> 35' t.
♦ " Proceedings," vol. I. p. 448.
t " Proceedings," vol. I. p. 443.
ON AN ERROR IN PARK's LAST JOURNAL. 179
When, iembarrassed by these contradictions, we turn to
p. 7 (of the 1st or 4to. edition of his journal), we find
diat Park has reckoned on the 31st of April, inserting the
circumstances of that day, and of every other which
followed it, without the least suspicion of the error he had
committed. It is clear that his first observation, involv-
ing the contradictions just submitted, instead of being
made on the morning of the l6th of May (or during the
night of the 15th by astronomical reckoning), was made
twenty^four hours, or one day later, and that he conse-
quently applied a wrong declination. Now* the moon
passed the meridian of Paris on the l6th of May at
14h 45'* • it must therefore have passed the meridian of
Park's' place of observation (according to his account
of his longitude, as determined the nejit day by observa-
tion)f about 15', or one hour later: the' difference be-
tween the moon s declination on die 15th (the day taken
by Park) and the l6th (the day he ought to have taken),
at iiiidnight, is 42' S : the difference between the moon's
declination at twelve and eighteen hours on the l6th,
is 21', so that we have to subtract 45' from Park's re-
sult or calculation, which lowers Walters' Well, from
* Cod. des Temps J 805.
t Journsil, 4to edition, p. 24.
180 OF AN ERHOR IN J^AltK^S fiAST JOURITAS^
}^38'46''to 15^4d'4^'; ml eopsequentlj (reckoning feft
miles difference of latitude is a S. W* course on hia three
hoars* mardi the next morning to the Neaulico) placesr
ft
the point of passage of that river in 13^ S^ 4ff',.or be-
tween fifteen and nxteen miles south of Kolor, insteaiA
of forty nules north of it. We thus verify Park's formes
account, and Major Rennell's conclusions within a few
miles, instead of sbowmg the former to have been contra^*
dktory, and the latter absurd*^ .
Reading a little further we find (p. d^V that Park made
the latitude of Bee Creek 13^ 3£^ 45" by observation, and
after two marches in a varied countsy (since he mentions'
that he descended into a valley of Shea Uees,) found hits^
self precisely in the same latitude withm 45"*,. fos. he
determined that of Badoo, where he halted the secobd day^
to be 13® 32,'^ 45^; this of course is highly improbable.
We apply the proper declination (that of the £7ih instead
of the 26th) to the observation at Bee Creek^ and it givea
13® 42" instead of 13® 32^^45'',, and ^^ discover that in^
^ ''On working these beiurings e^er again, it iappeared that
^ Mr. Park had made a mfstake; • ... • . • I mention ffaht, ta
'< show that he has acted fairly,, in exposing bis whole process^
" and even his errors." RenDell,.iB the " Proceedings," vol. !•
p. 465.
> •
ON AK ERROR IN PAB&'s I^AST JOI^KNAL. ISl
calculating the obserratipo at IS^doQ, JPvk^ by; ili^JHitake,
took the right declinndoD*, t. f. the ^SKh/mtenl: iot ihe
$l8tb, so that his result ,15^ S9f%oiif>go^, iPVt.Uiiis we
£nd that he made between Q zvA lOimles diffsmce of
latitude, instead of AS" in the two daya* niarch*..
I will trouble the reader with .d^ ooe more lof thcr
numerous contmdictions which ougbt t^ have /led th»
constructor of the map to haye fliuspe^ted^aJMl looked foj
some such error as has been now discover^* Qn tbedtk
of July, by Park's reckoiiiuig, h^ made this latitude of
Boolin Coomber, 13^ 1 1' by'obserratiop y h» marched the
next day^in a difficult country, ^^ p^rdy oyer « ridge of
^ rocks which formed the oidy passage across a chain of
^ Thb mistake of Park's on the right side, has escaped the
ehsenration oC the editor, whe detected one ef a^aiaiilar nature,,
(p. 196.) and by eonrecting it, as he iaiagined, intiodi^ced an
error in Park's calcukition from whieh it had aeeidentally escaped*
According to the Con. des Temps (for I have not the opportunity
of Gonsolting the Nautical Almanack), the son's declination for
the 29fh of May, 1805, was 21 deg. 36 min. 1 see. Park has taken
31 deg. 37 min. 30 see. his longitude leqmred a eerrectien off
ahout 25 sec. only, in the Paris declination, so that he ought to
have taken 21 deg. 36 min. 30 sec. The decUnatieik of the d8tb,
was 21 deg. 26 min. 7 sec.
182 ON AN ERROR IN TARK's LAST JOURNAL
'^ hilb/' for the last ^' six miles on a rocky and almost
^ impassable road,'' and a little before sunset reached
Saboosera, die latitude of which he determined by a meri-
dian altitude of the moon^ to be 13^ 50' : so that in this
very difficult, and consequently slow day's march, he made
good a difference of thirty^ne miles in latitude alone.
By allowing such absurdities as these to remain unexa-
mined and unexplained, we make Park, one of the most
accurate of travellers, guilty of inconsistencies as gross as
Governor Dalzel,' who allowed 108> miles for the differ-
ence of latitude, between Grigevee and Abomy ; whilst
he admitted the distance by route, to be only ninety-six
miles*; or as M. Molliene,who travelled forty and forty-
five miles a day, and made good ninety miles in one direct
bearingf.
Our first question is, how can these contradictions have
escaped the editor, or rather, how can he have reconciled
them in the construction of the route on the map f But we
learn from the preface, that the editor (a gentleman of
superior knowledge and judgment) unfortunately did
• Bowdich's " Essay on the Geography ofN. W, Africa.'^ Parij*,
1821, p. 68.
t Bowdich's ^' British and French Expeditions to Teembo,
with Remarks on Civilization in Africa." Paris, 1821, p. 42, p. 40.
ON AN ERROE IN PARK's LAST JOURNAL. 183
not undertake that part of the work^ but that Major
Kenneirs notes, together nvith Park's journal, '^ were
** placed in the hands of a respectable artist, employed by
*^ the publisher to construct the map intended to illustrate
'^ the work ; at whose request the following statement
'' respecting certain difficulties which have occurred in its
'^. construction, is subjoined."
'^ In compiling the map of Mr. Park's route, in 1805,
'^ much difficulty has arisen from the bearings of places
.^' not being mentioned in the journal ; and also in con-
^ sequence of there being occasionally great differences
'^ between the latitudes and longitudes of places accord-
'^ ing to the astronomical observations, and the distances
^ computed according to the joumies. Considerable
** pains have been taken to reconcile these differences,
''but the general result has been, that it was found
** necessary in adhering to the astronomical observations,
"to carry Mr. . Park's former route in 1796 further
'' north, and to place it in a higher latitude than that in
*' which it appears in Major Rennell's map, annexed to
'* the former volume of Travels."
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ON AN ERROR IN PARK's LAST JOURNAL. 185
The latter observatioiiSy being made so near die equinox^
are materially changed by the correction, and Sego is so
important a point in African geography, that the correc-
tion of an error of 25^ in its latitude, should not be post-
poned.
The discovery of the error in the journal has thus
enabled us to correct the astronomical observations of the
«
second journey, to do aiyay the apparent contradictions
and improbabilities of Park's last account, and to confirm
»
the astronomical observations of his former route ; but
the three or four observations'^ of longitude offer an
inexplicable difficulty. They were determined by the
eclipses of Jupiter's satellites, and the day they are
noted to have been observed in his journal, is the same as
that which is assigned in the ^* Connoissance des Temps,''
and of course, in the Nautical Almanac. How is this
to be explained i The error of a day in the reckoning
stands confessed in the journal; unless it is admitted
and calculated on. Park's narration presents impossibi-
lities, and the astronomical observations of his former jour-
ney are all one degree more or less in error ; on the other
hand, if we admit the error thus betrayed by the account
and observations, and confessed in the journal, ^ark
o ^
186 ON AN ERROR JN PARK's LAST JOURNAL:
must have been deceived in the eclipses of the sa-
tellites, and could not have witnessed them at the time
he thought he did.
FINIS.
Howleu and Brimmer, Printcrt, lo, Friib SUeet, Soho.