Full text of "The annals of San Francisco; containing a summary of the history of ... California, and a complete history of ... its great city: to which are added, biographical memoirs of some prominent citizens"

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SiSNEAL-OGY

:OL.UECTION

ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY

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_J u u _u

CENEAUOGiY COLLECTION

THE

ANMLS OF SANFRANCISCO ;

CONTAINING

A SUIVIMARY OF THE HISTORY OF THE FIRST DISCOVERY,
SETTLEMENT, PROGRESS, AND PRESENT CONDITION OF

CALIFORNIA,

AND A COMPLETE HISTORY OF ALL THE IMPOKTANT EVENTS

CONNECTED WITH

ITS GREAT CITY:

TO WHICH AEE ADDED,

BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIRS OF SOME PROMINENT CITIZENS.

FRANK SOULE, JOHN H. GIHON, M. D.,

AND.

JAMES^SBET.

ILLUSTRATED WITH ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY FINE ENGRAVINGS.

" Go to, let us build ns a city, and a tower,
Whose top may reach unto heaven ;
And let us make us a name."

NEW YORK:

D. APPLETON & COMPANY, 346 & 348 BROADWAY.

SAN FEANOISCO: MONTGOMERY STREET.

LONDON: 16 LITTLE BRITAIN.

M.DCCC.LT.

Entbked, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854, bj-

D. APPLETON & COMPANY,

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District

of New York.

TO THE

'^SOCIETY OF CALIFORNIA PIONEERS,"

THIS WORK

RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED

THE AUTHORS.

1148460

PEE F AC E.

Were not the plan, scope and purpose of the present volume sufficiently
explained in the text of the work itself, we should despair of adequately
initiating the reader in these subjects in the limited space necessarily
assigned to a Preface. It is not necessary to offer a reason for the ap-
pearance of these " Annals." To read and to know something of the
history of this new Tadmor which has grown up so suddenly in the midst
of what was but recently merely a desert, the centre of that vast trade
which the golden smile of California opened at once to the world, is so
natural and inevitable a desire, that it may be taken for granted, and
dismissed as a foregone conclusion. The plan of the work is such as its
nature seemed to require, and the style and manner of treatment must
rest for approval and criticism with the PuMic, for whom it was written
and to whom it is now submitted.

To avoid the necessity of frcLpent references in the body of the work
to authorities, and to those who have generously extended to the authors
facilities for its production, the Preface has been selected as the most
fitting place for expressing our obligations. For unrestricted access to
the " Californian," the "California Star," and the "Alta California"
newspaper files, we are indebted to the courtesy of Mr. Edward Conner,
one of the proprietors of the last named journal. Much valuable statis-
tical and other information has been derived from the " San Francisco
Herald," full files of which were kindly placed at our disposal by its
editor and proprietor, Mr. John Nugent. The " California Chronicle,"
from its commencement to the date of publication of this volume, was
also placed by the proprietors at our service. We are likewise indebted

6 PREFACE.

to Messrs. T. J. Nevins and Wm. H. O'Grady for information respect-
ing the public schools ; to Mr. J. L. Van Bokkelin, for important facts
concerning the fire department ; to Mr. A. G. Randall, for particulars in
regard to military organizations ; to Rev's T. Dwight Hunt, Albert Wil-
liams, J. L. Ver Mehr, S. H. Willey and 0. C. Wheeler, for matter
relating to the early state of religion and churches in San Francisco ;
to Messrs. Thomas 0. Larkin, William A. Richardson, Jacob P. Leese,
Jacob R. Snyder, James Caldwell Low, Hiram Pierson, J. D. Steven-
son, Samuel Brannan, R. H. Perry, David Jobson, Samuel J. Bayard,
Nathaniel Gray and James King of William, for much useful and inter-
esting information regarding the early and present history of the city ;
to Mr. J. M. Ford, daguerreian artist, for gratuitous services in taking
portraits of many of the gentlemen whose memoirs are given ; and to
our citizens generally who have freely responded to our call for informa-
tion, whenever they have been appealed to for that purpose. Many bio-
graphical sketches designed for this work have been omitted for want
of room, the volume having extended to nearly double the size originally
intended and promised. These, however, with other interesting matters
connected with the progress of San Francisco, and a history of all the
important cities and towns of California, will be published at an early
day, in another volume, a great portion of the material for which is al-
ready prepared.

The necessity of condensing within the reasonable space of a single
volume, the history of a city which has occupied for the five or six years
of its existence so much of the attention of the world, and the unavoid-
able collateral history of California, has prevented, to some extent, a
natural impulse and inclination to indulge more at length in many inter-
esting details. But it is believed that the gist of the whole matter is
embraced in the history as written, and that no important event has been
omitted, which would have been of interest to the general reader.

CONTENTS.

PART I.

CHAPTER I.— Proposed treatment of the work.— Etymology of the name California. — ^Lower or
Old Calit'i/inia. — Grixalva and Mendoza. — First discovery. — Expeditions of Cortez. — Cabrillo. —
Fen-elo. — Drake. — Drake's descrijition of the natives. — Bodega and San Francisco Bays. — Sir
Francis Drake's Bay.— Captain Thomas Cavendish. — Captain "Woodes Rogers. — His description
of the natives. — The English buccaneering expeditions along the west coasts of the Americas. —
Political reasons why the Spanish Government strenuously prosecuted the discovery and settle-
ment of California p. 21

CHAPTER II.— Expeditions of Viscaino. — Admiral Otondo and Father Kino. — First settlement, and
introduction of the priest rule in the Californias. — Failure and withdi'awal of the first missions.
— Renewed attempts to make settlements. — Father Salva-Tierra and his coadjutors.— Final estab-
lishment of the Jesuits in the country. — Geographical discoveries of Father Kino. — Jesuits ex-
pelled and superseded by Franciscan Friars ; these, in turn, by the Dominican Monks. — Population
and phy.sical character of Old or Lower California 38

CHAPTER III. — First settlement of New or Upper California by Franciscan Monks. — Supposed
earliest discovery of San Francisco Baj'. — Origin of the name. — Establishment of a Mission and
Presidio there, and ceremonies on the occasion.— Gradual establishment of Missions and Presidios
over the country. — List of these, and population of some at various dates. — The gente de razon
and the bestias, or the rational creatures and beasts of the country. — Causes why free white set-
tlers few in number. — Character (f the natives as given by Venegas, and other writers. — Progress
and apparent destiny of the Anglo-Saxons on the Pacific 45

CHAPTER IV. — Conduct of the Fathers towards the natives. — Their mode of instructing, employ-
ing and subsisting the converts. — The Fathers do not appear to have promoted the true welfare
of the aborigines, or done any good to humanity.— Pictures, if gaudily colored and horriblii in
subject, great aids to conversion. — Missions and population of the country at recent dates. —
Table on this subject, — Tables of the farm produce and domestic cattle of the country. — Table of
prices 56

CHAPTER v.— Pious Fund of California.— General description of the Missions.— Patriarchal kind
of life of the Fathers. — Reflections on the subject- General description of the Presidios, Castillos,
and their garrisons, and of the free Pueblos and Eanchios 67

CHAPTER VI. — Independence of Mexico in 1822, and gradual changes in the character and constitu-
tion of the Missions. — Manumission of the Indians in 1826 ; but plan found unworkable, and re-
turn to the old state of things. — Gradual disappearance of the Pious Fund. — Increasing riches of
the Fathers. — Changes of 1833 and iS34 in the Mii^sions, and attempts by the Mexican Congress
to secularize their property. — Santa Anna. — Attempted Centralization of the Mexican Govern-
ment. — Overthrow of the old Federal Constitution in 1836. — Revolt and Declaration of Indepen
<lence of the Californians.— Continual sinking of the Fathers, and final fall of the Missions in
1845. — Indian converts sent adrift, and Mission property sold or rented. — Cost of the support
of the Missions to the Spanish and Mexican Governments 74

8 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VII. — California distinct in physical character and national feeling from the other
Mexican provinces.— Bc!,'inning and progress of immigration into the country. — The Russians at
Bodega Biiy.— Later great increase of foreign white settlers; Americans largely preponderating.
— Ontrage committed upon the settlers hy Mexican authorities.— Commodore Jones takes pos-
session of Monterey. — Foreign settlers scatter themselves over the whole country, and silently,
but rapidly, revolutionize or Americanize it — Origin of the war of 1846 between the Mexican
and American States SI

ClIArTER Tin.— Col. John C. Fremont— General Jos6 Castro.— Fremont declares war against
California.— Capture of Sonoma.— Proclamation of William B. Ide.— Letter of Pio Pico, Governor
of the Califomias, to Thomas O. Larkin, Consul of the United States.— Thomas O. Larkin's reply
to Pio Pico. — California declared independent — California desired by the American Government.
— Col. Stevenson's regiment — Movements of General Kearny. — Seizure of Monterey. — Proclama-
tion of Com. Sloat— Commander Montgomery takes possession of Terba Buena and Fremont of
San Juan 90

CHAPTER IX.— Commodore Stockton takes charge of the American forces in California. — Hostility
of the Californians. — Proclamation of Com. Stockton. — Landing at San Pedro, and manoeuvres
of the sailor army. — Castro's commissioners. — March on Los Angeles, and flight of General
Castro. — Triumphant entry into Los Angeles. — Provisional government formed. — The difliculties
of Stockton's march, and the complete success of his plans. — Reported hostility of the Walla-
Walla Indians. — Enthusiastic reception of Stockton at San Francisco and other places. — Satis-
faction of the people of California with the new government — Stockton designs to cross Mexico
and unite with the forces of General Taylor 101

CHAPTER X. — Insurrection of the Californians. — Proclamation of General Flores. — Defeat and
-surrender of Talbot and Gillespie. — Cajitain Mervine defc.itcd, with the crew of the Savannah. —
Com. Stockton defeats the Californians at San Diego. — Defeat of General Kearny at San Pasqual.
— The oflQcial relations of Com. Stockton and Gen. Kearny. — Movement against Los Angeles.
—Battles of the Rio San Gabriel, and the Plains of the Mesa. — Fremont negotiates with General
Flores and Andreas Pico. — Fremont appointed Governor, and .subsequently tried by Court Mar-
tial. — Arrival of Commodore Shubrick, and the confirmation of General Kearny as Governor. —
Mexican Governors of California. — Foreign Consuls in the Territory 113

CHAPTER XL— Peace concluded between the Mexican and American States.— Terms of the Treaty.
—California ceded to the United States. — The country ruled provisionally by American Govern-
ors.-Rapid increase of population by immigr.ation.— Discovery of gold on the American River
by Mr. James W. Marshall.— Great excitement in consequence of the discovery, and rush of peo-
ple to the gold placer.'.— Mixed character of the population.— Necessity for the establishment of
a proper form of Government— Independent sectional legislation inadequate and unsatisfactory.
—Meetings held to cflfect a general civil organization.— General Riley issues a proclamation for
a meeting to be held at Monterey to adopt a State Constitution.— Names of delegates appointed.
—Meeting at Monterey.— Constitution of California adopted, and rejoicings on the occasion. . 12S

CHAPTER XII.— Geographical limits of Upper California.— General description of the country.—
Two great divisions of the northern part of the State.— Fertility of the soil.— Peculiarities of
the climate.— Two seasons: wet and dry.— Products of tlw country.— Fogs and winds on the
coa,st— The harbors.— Country west of the Sierra Nevada.— The Sacramento and San Joaquin
rivers, and their valleys.- This region of country abounds in timber.— Excessive heat in the dry
8ca.son.— Localities of the chief gold placers.— Immense size of trees.— Silver, lead, copper and
coal mines.— Advantages to the immigrant ]40

PART II.

CUAI'TKR I.— Description of the Golden Gate.— Origin of the name.- The Bays of San Francisco.
San Pablo, and Snisun.-Rivcrs emptying into Suisim Bay.— Description of the adjacent coun-
try.— Indian tradition.— Remarkable fertility of the .soil.— Farm produce and mode of farming. -
Location of the City of San Francisco.- The name Yerba Buena —The first house built— Dis-
advantages of the locality.— No provision made for desirable public squares or parks 149

CONTENTS. y

CHAPTER II.— The Mission and Presidio of San Francisco.— Formation and survey of tlie village
of Terba Bueiia. — Disputes and litigation in regard to Ycrba Buena being a Pueblo.— Captain
Richardson the first Harbor Master.— ViMts of national and other vessels to Terba Buena Cove.
— Reasons why the whale ships ceased to enter the harbor fur supplies.— Traffic between Verba
Buena and foreign ports. — Hides and tallow the chief exports. — Prices obtained for these. —
Heavy rains and their effects. — Earthquakes. — Unnsnal drought — Mr. Jacob P. Leese establishes
himself at Yerba Buena —Celebration of the Fourth of July at Leese's house.— First child bom.
—Limits of the original survey 162

Oil AFTER III.— Removal of the Hudson's Bay Company.— Rapid growth and increase of population
of Yerba Buena.— First newspapers established in California.— Tables showing the number
of inhabitants in 1S47, with their places of birth, ages, .eexes and occupations.— Ordinance of the
alcalde changing the name of Yerba Buena to San Francisco.— W. A. Bartlett was the first alcalde
under the American flag, who was succeeded by George Hyde, and he by Edwin Bryant.— Pow-
ers of an alcalde. — Great sale of beach and water lots, agreeably to a decree of General Kearny,
— Price of grants of property, and subsequent increased value of city lots. — Width of the streets.
— JIunicipal regulation restricting purchasers 173

CHAPTER lY. — Captain Montgomery hoists the American flag on Portsmouth Square. — Arrival of
the ship Brooklyn from Xew York, with a large company of Mormon and other immigrant'. —
Disputes among her passengers, leading to the first jury trial in San Francisco. — Grand ball at
the residence of Wm. A. Leidesdorff.— Nautical fete given by Capt. Simmons.— Public reception
of Com. Stockton. — Attempts to establish a public school.— Name of town changed to San Fran-
cisco. — Number of buildings and inhabitants.— Suffering immigrants in the Sierra Nevada, —
Trustee* of the proposed school chosen. — Delegates to represent the District of San Francisco in
the new legislative council- Arrival of Col. Stevenson and New York Volunteers.— Vessels in
the harbor, 1.3th March, 1S47.— ■' The California Star '' adopts the name of San Francisco. — Mails
established between San Francisco and San Diego. — Proposed erection of a church. — Grand illu-
mination in honor of Gen. Taylor's victory at Buena Vista. — Celebrations of Anniversaries. —
Public meeting to consider the claims of Col. Fremont to the office of Governor of the Terri-
tory. — Sale of beach and water lots. — Election of the first town conncil. — The first public school
— Gales in San Francisco Bay. — The first steamboat. — Thanksgiving Day. — Commercial Statis-
tics 1S5

CHAPTER V. — Resolutions concerning gambling. — Public sale of City Property. — Price Current
published. — Condition and population of the town. — Overland express to Independence, Mo. —
George Hyde, alcalde, resigned, and succeeded by Dr. J. Townsend. — Death of Wm. A. Leides-
dorff. — Discovery of gold, and immediate effects. — Illumination in celebration of the peace be-
tween Mexico and the United States. — Dr. T. M. Leavenworth elected alcalde. — First brick
house. — Public meeting to regulate the price of gold dust — First square-rigged vessel discharged
at Broadway wharf— Judicial limits of the town. — Rev. T, D. Hunt chosen chaplain. — First
issue of the " Star and Californian." — State of the markets. — Public meeting to organize a Pro-
visional Government. — New town council elected. — Election declared invalid. — Duties collected
at the Cnstom-House 199

CHAPTER VI.— General Effects of the Gold Discoveries 209

CHAPTER VII.— The Alta California newspaper established.— Delegates elected to the proposed
convention to be held at San Jose. — New town council elected. — Three town councils at one
time. — Meeting of the convention to frame a civil government postponed. — Public meeting re-
specting the conflicting councils. — Public meeting concerning negro slavery. — Town councils
resigned, and legislative assembly chosen. — Arrival of the steamship California. — Address of
delegates to civil government convention. — Arrival of steamship Oregon, and Col. John W.
Geary with the first United States mails. — General Riley announced territorial governor. — Acts
of the legislative assembly and of the governor. — Meetings concerning municipal and State govern-
ments. — Growth, population and general prosperity of the city. — Gambling and other vices and
crimes 218

CHAPTER VIII. — The Hounds. — Election of Supreme Judge, delegates to convention and mu-
nicipal officers. — Alcalde's address to the Ayuntamiento. — Duties of prefects. — The prison brig
Euphemia and store-ship Apollo. — Churches. — Regulations and appointments of the Ayunta-

10 CONTENTS,

mlonto— Tho "PacincNews" coinmcnced.— Meeting of the CoDStitnllon Convention at Mon-
terey. — Mercliants' Exchange. — Steam Navigation. — Death of Nathan Spear. - First demo-
cratic nu'cilng.— Circus opened.— Constitution approved and State officers elected.— First liahita-
tion on Rincon Point— Thanksgiving Day.-Judge Almond's court. -Tlie '^ Alta California."--
Flrst groat Are -'" '

CHAPTER IX.— Increase of population —No proper homes.— Character of the houses.— Condition
of the t-troi-t-s.- Employments of the people.— Every thing in apparent confusion ; still nobody
idle, and much business accomplished.— How the inhabitants lived.— Money rapidly made and
ft-ecly spent— Gambling.— Shipping deserted. —Extravagantly high prices obtained for every
thing.— Rents and wages.— The mines the source of all the v.ealth.— Destitution, sickness and
<leath.— Increase of crime —Aspect of the Plaza.— Mixed character of the inhabitants.— The Post-
otlice.— A pleasant prospect 243

CHAPTER X.— Great sale of water lots.— An election day —Newspapers.— Approval by the ayuntii-
niiento of tho City Charter, and limits of San Francisco.— Squatter difficulty at Rincon Point—
Poliiical meeting on Portsmouth Square.- The Colton grants.— First county election.— Col.
John C. llaycs elected SlierifT.- City Charter adopted by the State Legislature.— First election
under tho City Charter.— Changes in the Common Council 264

CHAPTER XL— Third great fire.— Aldermen's salaries.— Indignation meetings.— Veto message of
the mayor.— Shipping in San Francisco Bay.— Celebration of the Fourth of July.— The Oregon
Liberty Pole.— Custom-house at the corner of California and Montgomery streets.— Departure
from California of General Riley.— Society of California Pioneers. — Squatter riots at Sacramento.
—Suffering immigrants. — Presentation of Chinese Books. — Funeral ceremonies on occasion of
the death of President T.aylor.— A Chinese document 277

CHAPTER XII.— The first City Directoiy published.— Monetary crisis.— Fourth great fire.— Death
of Capt.iin Bezer Simmons.— The wharves.— Celebration on account of the admission of California
into the Union of American States.— Explosion of the steamer Sagamore.— City Hospital burned.
—Improvements in the city.— Plank road to the Mission Dolores. — Death of the mayor of Sacra-
mento. — Thanksgiving Day.— Fire in Sacramento-street 289

CH.VPTER XIII.— Population in 1S50.— City improvements.— Grading and planking streets.—
Wharves, steamers, manufactures.— Supply and demand for goods. — Mines yielding abundantly.
— Expresses cstablished.-Moral progress.— Better state of things. — Cholera.— California admitted
to the Union.— City Charter granted.— First Common Council. — The gold medals for Aldermen.—
Corruption of officials.— Colton Grants.— Leidesdorff Estate.— City finances.— Outrages and fires.
—The prisons and police.— Lynch Law agitated 300

CHAPTER XIV.— The Gold Bluffs and Pacific Mining Company.— The excitement at the City Ilall
in February, ISol.— Attempt to Lynch Burdue and Windred. — ^Their subsequent escape. — Burn-
ing of the steapiers Hartford and Santa Clara. 311

CHAPTER XV.— Judge Parsons and the case of William Walker for contempt of Court— Act of
Legislature ceding Beach and Water Lots to the City of San Francisco. — Act to re-incorporate
the city. — New city limits. — First election of municijial oflicers under revised charter. — Act
pas.<ed to fund the State debt — Act to establish State Marine Hospital.— Act to fund the flo.iting
debt— Indebtedness of the city. — Municipal officers trafficking in city scrip. — Fifth great fire. 322

CHAPTER XVI.— T. Butler King removing the custom-house deposits.— Frank Ball's song, and
costom-houso appointment. — Dr. Robinson's rhymes. — Incendiarism. — The case of Lews,
charged with arson. — The facilities with which criminals escaped from punishment. — The Vigi-
lance Committee. — Contracts of Mr. Merriflcld and tho Mountain Water Lake Company to supply
tlie city wHh water 384

CHAPTER XVII.— The sixtii groat fire.— Destruction of old buildings.— Execution by the Vigi-
lance Conimittce of Stu.irt, Whittakcr and McKenzie. — County and city elections. — The Vigi-
lance Committee suspend operations.— Wells & Co. suspend payment— Opening of the Jenny
Llnd Theatre.— The American Theatre opened.— Shipping in San Francisco Bay.— Ball of the
Monumental Fire Company.— Indian disturbances and volunteer military companies.— Severe
storm 341

CONTENTS. 11

CHAPTER XYIII. — rmiiiiixratioii diminished. — Females comparatively few. — Great city improve-
ments. — Productions of the country, game, &c., in the markets. — Character of the community
changing for the better. — The circulating medium. — Extravagance in living, dress, &c. — Personal
renc'-.ntres and other outrages common.— Titles to real estate uncertain. — Legal decisions. — De-
preciated value of merchandise.—Amusements, dissipation and recreation. — The foreign popula-
tion. - Great crimes less frequent. — The finances of the city 857

CHAPTER XIX.— Dr. Peter Smith. — His contract with the city to take charge of the indigent sick.
— The city's indebtedness. — Smith's judgments and executions. — Injunctions of the commission-
ers of the funded debt. — Sale and sacrifice of tho city property under Smith's judgments. . . 370

CHAPTER XX.— The Chinese in California— Act passed to fund the floating debt of the State.
— Tlie State Marine Hospital. — Act to convert into a seven per cent, stock the floating debt
of the County of San Francisco. — Anniversary of fires. — Meetings of the Vigilance Committee. 378

CHAPTER XXI.— Clipper Ships.— Enormous Taxation.— Purchase of the Jenny Lind Theatre by
the Common Council. — Times and Transcript removes to San Francisco. — Fourth of July cele-
bration.— Great scarcity of printing paper. — Duel between lion. Edward Gilbert and General
Denver. — Custom of Duelling. — Funeral ceremonies on occasion of the death of Henry Clay. 391

CHAPTER XXII.— Australian gold mines. — Restlessness of miners. — Many who emigrated to Aus-
tralia return to California. — Superior advantages of the latter place. — Second city directory
published. — California Telegraph Company. — General election. — Firo in Sacramento City.—
Another fire in San Francisco. — Intelligence received of the death of Daniel Webster.— Falling
of the waters of Lake La Mercede. — Another city directory. — Firemen's election. — Legal exe-
cution of Joso Forni. — Destructive storm 402

CHAPTER XXIIL— Increase of population.— Mixed character of the immigrants.— Chinese, Peru-
vians, Chllenos, and other foreigners, notoriously vicious. — Sutferings of the overland immigrants.
— Greater attention paid to agricultural pursuits. — City improvements still progressing. — Great
fires no longer possible. — Fire insurance agencies established. — Manufactories. — New gold dis-
coveries. — Emigration to Australia. — Merchandise and provisions commanding high prices. —
The clipper ships.— Filthy condition of tho streets. — Great abundance of rats.— The city exten-
sion, bay, and shipping. — The strong winds preventive of disease. — Peculations of officials.—
San Francisco only suitable for the industrious. — ^The city growing in importance. — Change of
inhabitants. — Fascinations of San Francisco life. — Reflections concerning the moral condition of
the city 411

CHAPTER XXIV.— Commerce.- Mercantile Library Association. — Tho Limantour claim.— Elec-
tion of delegates to revise the City Charter.— Third annual celebration of the organization of tho
Fire Department.— Steamships lost— Extension of the city water front- United States Marino
Hospital 427

CHAPTER XXV. — Russ's garden.— The German population. — May-day celebration by school-cbil-
dren.— Burning of the Eassette House.— Mountain Lake Water Company.— General State Ilospi-
tal.— Drinking houses.— Clipper ships and short passages.— Military parade and celebration of 4th
of July.— Dedication of the First Congregational Church.— St Mary's (Catholic) Church.— Unita-
rian Church.— Seamen's Bethel.— Squatter difliculties.— Store-ships burned.— Strikes by mechan-
ics and laborers for higher wages.— Anniversary of the German Turnverein.— City and county
election.— Latiiyette Hook and Ladder Company organized.— The French inhabitants.— Sweeney
<fc Baugh's electric telegraph 445

CHAPTER XXVI.— Important legal decision of the Supreme Court confirming Alcaldes' grants.—
Burning of the St Francis Hotel.— Opening of the telegraph communication to Marysville.— Lone
Mountain Cemetery.— Anniversary of the day of St Francis.— The Mission Dolores.— Tlio Span-
ish races in California.— The Custom- House Block.— The steamship WinfieUl Scott wrecked.—
I Election of officers of the Fire Department.— The Sonorian Filibusters.— Opening of the Metro-
r politan Theatre.— Great sales of water lots.— Montgomery block 467

CHAPTER XXVII.— Numbers and description of the population of the State.— Amount of gold
produced from California mines.— San Francisco as related to California.— Population of San
Francisco. — City im])rovements.— Commercial statistics 484

12 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXVIIL— Prosperity of San Francisco.— Business activity.— Fortunes rapidly made.—
Disputes concerning titles to real estate.— Real property commanding extravagantly liigh prices.
—Social, moral and intellectual characteristic!'.- Gambling.— Vice less concealed in San Francisco
than in other cilie.s.- Tlic female poi)ulation.— Expenses of housekeeping.— Foreign population.
—The rnarvullous progress of the city during the past few years 497

CUAPTER XXIX.— Meeting of citizens regarding the State Revenue Act— Run on Adams & Co.
—Banking and banking-house?.— The Express Building.— Weather unusually cold.— Effects of
the weather upon the interests of the country.— Le Count & Strong's Directory for 1854. —
Loss of the clipper ship San Francisco.— The city lighted with gas.— Riot at the Mercantile
Hotel 510

CHAPTER XXX.— Commercial depression. — Decrease in the value of real estate and merchandise.
—Combination of the steamboat owners. — Rates of freight and passage on river steamers.—
Duels and duelling.— Sale of "government reserve" town lots. — Celebration of St Patrick's day.
—Conviction of filibusters. — Opening of the San Francisco branch mint — The Pacific railroad. —
Fallingof the U. S. bonded-warehouse.— Explosion of tlio boiler of the steamboat "Secretary."
— Arrival of Chinese immigrants. — Quick passage of the clipper ship " Flying Cloud." — Wreck of
the "Golden Fleece" 519

CHAPTER XXXI.— Tri.il of the Mexican consul.— Arrest of the French consul.— Chinese nowsp.v
per established. — German May-feast at Russ's Garden. — The Iloadley street grades. — Indictment
by the Grand Jury of Sonora filibusters. — Dedication of the Lone Mountain Cemetery. — Exten-
sive Coutlagration. — Report of the funded debt commissioners.— Squatter difficulties. — Sale of
public property. — Captain Adams arrived with the Japan treaty. — Alderman elected 531

CHAPTER XXXII: — Commercial depression. — Reduction of prices of merchandise and real estate.
— Fall in rents. — Improved character of the buildings. — The plaza being improved. — Govern-
ment fortifications of tlie harbor commenced. — Immigration and emigration. — The population.
— Yield of the gold mines. — Labor profitable in California. — The quicksilver mi^es. — Agricul-
tural resources. — Fisheries. — Telegraphs and railroads. — Ship-building. — Foreign relations. — Ice
and coal trade. — Mail steamers between San Francisco and Shanghae. — The international rail-
way. — San Francisco water front extension. — The proposed new city charter. — Claim of the
city to Pueblo lands. — Increase of sources of domestic comfort — Immoralities continue to pre-
vail. — Duel and duelling. — Theatrical entertainments. — Daily newspapers. — Means of moral and
educational improvement 543

PART III.

TiiE ITou.vDS. .. 558

The Vigilance Committee 563

DkATHS and liUKIALS 588

Tub Great Fires 598

The Fire Department 614

Steamer-Day 626

Hotels, Restaurants and Boardinq-Hodses 689

Public A.mc8ement8 653

Some Phases of San Francisco " Life " 665

Public Scnooi.8 675

Chdrohes and Religion \ 687

Independent Military Organizations 702

Social and Benkvolf.nt Institutions 709

.MF.H0IK of John W. Geary 718

" ClIAni.ES J. Bl'.KNIIAM .... 735

•* Stephen R. Harris, M. D 740

" C. K. Garrison 744

" Samuel Brannan. 745

JosEi'ii L. F0L.S0M 754

Thomas O. Larkim 758

CONTENTS.

Mehoce of John A. Sutter

" Mariako de Guadalitpb Vaixejo.

" Edwakd Gilbekt

" TViiUA-M D. M. Howard

" Joseph F. Atwell

" JoKATHAJf D. StEVESSON

" Wluiam M. Gwrs-

" Selim E. "Woodwoeth

" Theodore Patne

766
769
773
779
7S1
7S4
790
794
799

APPENDIX.

Great Seal op the State of Calitoen'ia 805

Constitution of the State of California 806

Act of Corporation of the City of San Francisco 816

MiiiirREBS OF THE Societt OF Caufoenia Pioneebs 822

umsmn

¥^»^

Custom-house, now (1S54) being erected on Battery street.

ILLUSTllATIONS.

1. — Bartlett's General Map, showing the countries explored by the United

States and Mexican Boundary Commission .
•1. — Montgomery street, San Francisco, north, from California street. Frontispiece.
:{. — Custom-house, being erected on Battery street, San Francisco . 14

4. — Seal of the Society of California Pioneers . . . .19

5. — Map of the City of San Francisco ..... 20

(j. — Portrait of Sir Francis Drake . . . . . .27

7. — Sir Francis Drake and California Indians .... 29

8. — Sir Francis Drake's Ba}', or Jack's Harbor . . . .32

'.". — Landing of Captain Woodes Rogers, in Upper California . . 35

lu. — View of the country in the interior of California . . .39

11. — Spanish Ship of Seventeenth Century, and Coast of California . 42

12. — Mission Dolores, or Mission of San Francisco . . .48

13. — California Indians . . . . . . . 52

14. — Indians under Instruction . . ■ ... 57

15. — Father Garzes and California Indians .... 59

ILLUSTBATIONS.

IG. — Mission of Santa Barbara

17. — Mission of San Carlos

IS. — A Mission Rancho

19. — Portrait of Father Antonio Pejri

2i). — Sutter's Fort, or New Helvetia

21. — Portrait of Colonel John C. Fremont

22. — Portrait of Thomas 0. Larkin

23. — Portrait of Commoaore Robert F. Stockton

24.— Sutter's Mill

25. — City of Monterey

26. — ^Entrance to the Golden Grate

2':.— The Golden Gate

28.— City of Stockton . ■ .

29. — Island and Cove of Yerba Buena

30. — Portrait of Jacob Primer Leese

31. — Celebration of the ith of July at Leese's House

32. — San Francisco from the Bay, in 1847

33. — Suffering Immigrants in the Sierra Nevada

34. — Rush for the Gold Regions

35. — San Francisco in the Winter of 1848

36. — A Miniug Scene ....

37. — San Francisco in 1849, from the head of Clay street

3 8. -^Prison-brig Euphemia and Store-ship Apollo

39. — San Francisco in 1849, from head of California street

40. — Parker House and Dennison's Exchange, December, 1849

41. — Muddy Streets ......

42. — Lodging House ......

43. — Parker House, when first opened . . . .

44. — Adobe Custom-house on Portsmouth squnre

45. — Post-office, corner of Pike and Clay streets .

46. — The Presidio of San Francisco ....

4*7. — San Francisco, April, 1850, south side of Portsmouth square
48.— Fire of May 4th, 1850 .....

49. — Diagram of Fire of May 4th, 1850 . . . .

50. — Custom-house, corner of Montgomery and California streets
51. — Sacramento City ......

52. — Emigrant Train ......

53.— Beach of Yerba Buena Cove, "Winter of 1849-50

54. — Aldermen's Medals . . . • .

'55. — San Francisco, Winter of 1849-50 . . . .

FAOE

65
69
f3
76
So
91
95
113
131
138
151
153
155
158
167
170
177
189
203
206
213
224
232
234
242
244
247
251
255
200
263
270
274
275
282
285
287
298
306
309

ILLUSTRATIONS.

66.— City-hull, February 22.1, 1851

57._Fire of May 4th, 1851

58. — San Francisco after the Fire of May 4tli, 1851

69. — Caricature : " The King's Campaign "

60. — Hanging of Jenkins on tlie Phiza

61. —Old City Hotel ....

62. — Residence of Samuel Brannan, Esq., in 1847

63. — Jenny Lind Theatre ....

64. — East side of Portsmouth square. Spring of 1850

66. New World Market, corner of Commercial and Leidesdorfif streets

6C. — Chinese Merchants and Coolie

67. — Chinese Gambling House

68. — Chinese Females ....

69. — Chinese Merchants

70. — Clipper-ship

71. — Scene in the Gold Mines

72. — Parrott's Granite Block .

73. — A Street Scene on a rainy night

74. — Wreck of the Steamship Tennessee

75. — United States' Marine Hospital

76. — Lagei'-bier Politicians

77. — New Rassette House

78. — First Congregational Church

79. — Unitarian Church

80. — French Shoe-blacks: a Street Scene

81. — Outer Telegraph Station

82. — InniT Telegraph Station .

83. — St. Francis Hotel, after the fire

84. — Interior of a Mission Church

85. — Custom-house Block

86. — Montgomery Block

87. — Inteiior of the El Dorado : a Gambling Scene

88. — San Francisco Beauties : the Celestial, the Senora and Madame

89. — Colored Population : Greaser, Chinaman and Negro

90. — View of San Francisco in 1854 ....

91. — Express Building ......

92. — Wilson's Exchange, Sansorae street

93. — Snn Francisco U. S. Branch Mint ....

94. — City of Oakland, Contra Costa . ...

95. — Celebration at Russ's Garden .....

ILLUSTRATIONS.

96. — Lone Mountain Cemetery

97. — Plaza, or Portsmouth Square, June, 1854

98. — Charcoal Merchant

99. — California Exchange, corner of Clay and Kearny sti'eets, June, 1854
100. — 2»ew Merchants' Exchange, Battery street .
101.— The Hounds ....

102. — Hanging of Whittaker and McKenzie
103. — Hanging of James Stuart
104. — Yerba Bueua Cemetery
105.— Fire of June 22d, 1851

106. — Diagram of the Burnt District, May 4th, 1851
107. — Diagram of the Burnt District, June 22d, 1851
108. — San Francisco Firemen
109. — Departure of a Steamship
110. — Homeward-bound Miners
111.— Oriental Hotel ....
112. — Interior of Winn's Branch
113. — Turk with Sweetmeats . . •

114.— St. Francis Hotel
115. — The Tehama House
116. — International Hotel .
117. — Russ's Garden ....
1 18. — Portrait of Mrs. A. F. Baker
119. — " Miss Matilda Heron .

120. — Fancy Ball, Califoi-nia Exchange
1 21. — The old School-house on Portsmouth Square
122.— Portrait of Col. T. J. Nevins
123. — First Presbyterian Church

124. — Presbyterian Church, destroyed by fire, June 22d, 1851
125. — Present Presbyterian Church
126. — Vallejo street Catholic Church
127.— St. Mary's Catholic Church
128. — Armory Hall
129. — Front street, Sacramento City
130. — San FTanciseo Orphans' Asylum
131. — ^Alcalde's Office, Portsmouth Square
132.— Portrait of Col. John W. Geary
133. — " Charles J. Brenham .

134.— " Stephen R. Harris, M. D.

135.— " C. K. Garrison

PAOB

•

536

. 545

549

s, Jnne, 1854

. 551

552

. 553

, •

562

. 580

• •

588

. 598

• •

609

. 612

• •

614

. 626

• •

632

. 639

• y

643

. 645

648

. 650

• •

651

. 653

• «

657

. 661

• •

665

. 675

•

680

. 687

691

. 693

•

696

. 698

• •

702

. 704

• •

709

. 718

•

725

. 735

t •

740

. 744

18 ILLUSTRATIONS.

PASB

186. — Portrait of Samuel Brannan ..... 748

137. — " Joseph L. Folsom ...... 754

138. — " Thomas O. Laikin ..... 758

139._ " John A. Sutter . . . . . .766

140. — " James Marshall ...... 767

141. — " Mariano de Guadalupe Vallejo .... 769

142.— " Edward Gilbert . .... 773

143._ •• William D. M. Howard . . . . .779

144. — •' Jonathan D. Stevenson ..... 784

145.— " William M. Gwin ..... 790

14(1.— " Selim E. Woodworth ..... 794

147._ " Theodore Payne ...... 799

148. — Store of T. Payne <fe Co., formerly the Jackson House . . 803

149.— Great Seal of the State of California . . . . .805

150. — Seal of the City of San Francisco ..... 816

OFFICERS OF THE SOCIETY OF CALIFORNIA TIONEERS, ELECTED JULY Tth, 1854.

J.vrou R. Snydei;, President.

G. B, Post, San Francisco.
J. C. L. Wadsworth, do.
B. S. Lippincott, tlo.
J. P. Leese, Monterey.
J. Belden, Santa Clara.

Vice-Presiden ts.

II. W. Theall, Tuolumne.

P. C. Carillo, Santa Barbara.

J. A. Sutter, Sutter.

J. Bidwell, Butte.

P. B. Curnwall, Sacramento.

W. A. Richardson, Marin.

G. Yount, Napa.

II. L. Ford, Colusi.

C. R. Johnson, Los Angeles.

S. Purd_v. San -Toaquin.

J. Caldwell Low, Secretary. W. T. Sherman, Treaxuier.

W. Van Voorhies,
J. M. Huxley,

Board of Directors.

O. P. Sutton.
G. F. Lemon,

J. Shew,

S. W. HaiKht.

T. A. Warbaas,

Corresponding ilembers.

D. S. Tumor, S. E. Harris, F. Soule,

A. G. Abell.

W. B. Farwell,

nnni

n,-in[

AKNALS OF SAI^ FRiNCISCO.

PART FIRST.

CHAPTER I.

Proposed Treatment of the 'Work— Etymology of the name California— Lower or Old California —
Grixalva and Mendoza— First Discovery— Expeditions of Cortez—Cabrillo—Ferrelo— Drake-
Drake's Description of the Natives — Bodega and San Francisco Bays — Sir Francis Drake's Bay —
Cavendish — Captain Woodes Rogers — His Description of the Natives — The English Buccaneering
Expeditions along the West Coasts of the Americas — Political Reasons why the Spanish Govern-
ment strenuously prosecuted the Discovery and Settlement of the Californias.

It appears expedient, before entering upon the annals of
San Francisco proper, to give a short review of the first dis-
covery, settlement, and progress of California itself, including
an account of the aboriginal inhabitants, and of the first estab-
lishment, rise, and decline of the priest class, their sovereigns,
whose domination forms a most peculiar and interesting phase
in the general history of the country. The subject indeed com-*
prebends, or naturally demands, some notice of these points ;
for, up to a recent period, San Francisco, from its being the
" golden gate " to the wealth of the State, and from its many
physical advantages, its population, the rapidity and grandeur
of its wondrous rise and progress, the energy of its citizens, the
extent of its home and foreign commerce, its universal fame,
arising chiefly from its being associated in the minds of men,

22 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

Americans as well as foreigners, with the first discovery and
subsequent astonishing produce of gold — San Francisco, from
these and other causes, has been in a great measure identified
with California itself No history, therefore, of the city, could
be complete, unless it included some account of the circum-
stances which preceded and immediately accompanied its rise,
and which have made it what it almost already is, but which it
will more plainly soon become, the greatest and most magnifi-
cent, wealthy and powerful maritime city in the Pacific — a city
which is destined, one day, to be, in riches, grandeur and influ-
ence, like Tyre or Carthage of the olden time, or like Liverpool
or New York of modern days.

We propose to embody in a succinct and continuous narra-
tive, the subjects already particularly noticed — a general account
of the causes, progress, and consequences of the war of 1846,
between the Mexican and American States — the cession of Cali-
fornia to the latter — the first discovery of gold, and the imme-
diate results of that discovery upon the prosperity and popula-
tion of the country — its admission as a State into the American
Union — and a description of its physical geography, and of its
commercial, agricultural, pastoral, and mineral wealth, and
capabilities to receive and satisfy millions of additional inhabit-
ants. These matters will form Part First of the work.

We shall afterwards, at somewhat greater length, describe,
in a similar continuous narrative, the progress and the various
incidents which happened, year by year, and month by month,
in San Francisco itself, from the period when California was
ceded by the Mexicans, and State and town became American, up
to the present time, and which, properly speaking, alone consti-
tute the " Annals " of the city. This subject will constitute
Part Second.

In the subsequent portion of the volume, we shall devote
special chapters, in no particular order, to the more minute details
of whatever things were most peculiar and interesting — physical
and intellectual, social and moral, and their causes and conse-
quences — which marked the progress of the city, and gave it a
world-wide reputation for good or for evil. In this division of
the work will be included biographical and personal sketches,

ETYMOLOGY OF THE NAME CALIFOENIA, 23

and anecdotes of the more prominent and distinguished actors in
the bustling scenes of the time, and whose names are closely
associated either with the general history of California, or with
the particular rise and progress of San Francisco itself These
topics will be comprehended in and constitute Part Third.

The remembrance of these matters is still fresh in the minds
of our people ; but, in the silent lapse of years, many of them
must gradually fade away. It would then be well, that after the
present generation disappears, our posterity should know something
of the early history and triumphant progress of their glorious
city, and of its worthiest or most noted sons, and the exciting,
troublous scenes of the last seven or eight years, all drawn from
the fullest and most accurate sources that are still to be had.
We propose then to make this book an original record of the sub-
jects alluded to.

The etymology of the name California is uncertain. Some
writers have pretended that it is derived from the two Latin
words caUda fornax, or, in the Spanish language, caUente fornalla
— a hot furnace. This, however, is doubted by Michael Venegas,
a Mexican Jesuit, in his " Natural and Civil History of California"
(2 vols. Madrid, 1758), a work of much research and high au-
thority. In his opinion, the early Spanish discoverers did not
name their new-found lands in this pedantic fashion. " I am
therefore inclined to think," he says, " that this name owed its
origin to some accident ; possibly to some words spoken by the
Indians, and misunderstood by the Spaniards," as happened in
several other cases.

The name California is first found in Bernal Diaz del Castillo,
an officer who served under Hernando Cortez, in the conquest of
Mexico, and who published a history of that extraordinary expe-
dition ; and is by him limited to a single bay on the coast. On
the other hand, Jean Bleau, the celebrated geographer (Amster-
dam, 1662), includes under the term all those immense tracks of
country lying west of New Spain and New Galicia, comprehend-
ing the whole coast Une from the northern parts of South America
to the Straits of Anian (Behring's Straits). In this larger sense
of the word, Jean Bleau is followed by several other geographers.

24 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

However, whatever be the limits of the country, the name has
occasionally changed. In some English maps it is called New
Albion, because Sir Francis Drake, the well known English
admiral, who touched on the coast in 1579, so styled it. About
a century later, it is denominated Islas Carolina s (the penin-
sula of California being then supposed to be an island), in honor
of Charles II. of Spain ; and this designation was adopted by
several writers and geographers of repute. After a time, the
original name of California was revived, and soon silently and
universally adopted.

California — meaning the existing Lower, or Old California,
was known to be a peninsula so early as 1541, when a map drawn
up at Madrid, by Castillo, already mentioned, represents the
direction of the coasts nearly as they are known at present. Yet
this fact was unaccountably forgotten for one hundred and sixty
years, when Father Klihn (Kino, of the Spaniards) seemed, for
the first time, to prove that California was not an island, but a
peninsula. In the early part of the sixteenth century, dreams of
a direct western opening to the Indias filled men's minds, as
later did those of a north-west passage. This was the first idea
of Columbus, which led to his great discoveries, and which he
held till death. In 1523, Charles V., in a letter, dated from
Valladolid, recommended to Cortez to seek on the eastern and
western coasts of New Spain, for such a passage. Cortez, in his
answer to the emperor, speaks with the greatest enthusiasm of
the probability of such a discovery, " which," he adds, " wiU
render your majesty master of so many kingdoms that you will
be considered as the monarch of the world ; " and seems to have
undertaken several voyages for the purpose of ascertaining the
fact.

In 1534, Cortez fitted out two ships under the command of
Hernando Grixalva and Diego Becerra de Mendoza, a relation of
his own, partly to learn the fate of a missing vessel of a previous
expedition, but chiefly to continue the coast discoveries. These
two ships happened to separate the first night following their
departure from Tehuantepec, and did not meet again. Grixalva,
after sailing three hundred leagues, came to a desert island, which
he called Santa Thome, believed to lie near the point of Califor-

EXPEDITIONS OF HERNANDO COBTEZ. 25

nia. This is supposed to be one of the group of islands now
called the Bevillagigedo Islands. He proceeded no farther north,
and made no fresh discoveries ; but shortly afterwards returned
to New Spain. Becerra, the commander of the other ship of this
expedition, was of a choleric, haughty disposition ; and, having
shown that offensively to his people, was murdered by a malcon-
tent crew, led on by his pilot Ortun, or Fortuno Zimenes, a native
of Biscay.

Zimenes afterwards continued the voyage of discovery, and
appears to have sailed westward across the gulf, and to have
touched the peninsula of California. This was in the year 1534.
He therefore was the first discoverer of the country. " But,"
says Venegas, '' he could not fly from the hand of Omnipotence ;
for coming to that part which has since been called Santa Cruz
Bay, and seems to be part of the inward coast of California, he
went ashore, and was there killed by the Indians, with twenty
other Spaniards." Upon this disaster, the remaining crew got
frightened, and returned to New Spain, This Bay of Santa
Cruz, so named by Cortez the following year, seems to be the
same as that now called La Paz, lying on the western side of the
Gulf of California, about a hundred miles north of Cape St.
Lucas. Some writers, however, suppose it to have been situated
much nearer the southern extremity of the peninsula.

Humboldt, in his " Political Essay on the Kingdom of New
Spain," in stating these circumstances, mentions in a note, that
he found in a manuscript preserved in the archives of the vice-
royalty of Mexico, that California was discovered in 1526, though
he knew not, he says, on what authority this assertion was founded.
From an examination which he seems to have made of other
manuscripts of the period, preserved in the Academy of History
at Madrid, Humboldt seems satisfied that this alleged discovery
of CaUfomia in 1526 was unfounded, and that the country had
not even been seen in the expedition of Diego Hurtado de Men-
doza, who was a near relation of Cortez, so late as 1532.

In 1535, Cortez himself coasted both sides of the Gulf of
California, which was first called the Sea of Cortez, but was more
generally known as the Mar Roxo, 6 Vermejo, (the Red, or
Vermillion Sea), probably from its resembling the Bed Sea

26 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

between Arabia and Egypt in shape, or from the discoloration of
its waters at the northern extremity by the Rio Colorado, or
Red River. Gomara, tlie Spanish historian, in 1557, likened it
more judiciously to the Adriatic. In the English maps, it is gen-
erally marked as the Gulf of California. Francisco de Ulloa,
at command and likewise at the personal expense of Cortez,
prosecuted farther discoveries along the coast, and during the
subsequent two years, succeeded in exploring the gulf nearly
to the mouth of the Colorado. Neither Cortez, however, nor
Ulloa seems to have discovered the coast of New or Upper
California.

That honor was reserved to Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, one of
the pilots of Cortez. Cabrillo was a Portuguese by birth, and a
man of great courage and honor. On the 27th June, 1542,
under instructions from the then viceroy of Spain, Antonio de
Mendoza, he sailed from the port of Navidad in Mexico, on
an expedition of discovery of the coast towards the north. He
touched at various places on the voyage. The large cape between
the fortieth and forty-first degrees of latitude he named CV/jje
Mendoza, or Mendocino, in honor of the viceroy. Cabrillo reached
44° lat. N., where he found the cold (10th March) intense.
This, the want of provisions, and the bad condition of his ships,
compelled him to return to Navidad, the harbor of which place
he re-entered on 14th April, 1543. This is according to the
authority of Venegas. Other accounts say that Cabrillo, who
had been long sick, and was overcome at last by the fatigues of
the voyage, died at Port Possession, in the Island of San Ber-
nardo, one of the Santa Barbara group, about the thirty-fourth
parallel, upon the 3d January, 1543, leaving the subsequent
guidance of the expedition farther northwards to Bartolome
Ferrelo, his pilot. Ferrelo is said to have named a promon-
tory about the forty-first degree of latitude, Caho de Fortunas
(Cape of Perils, or Stormy Cape), from the rough weather and
dangers encountered in its vicinity. This promontory is supposed
to be the same, already noticed, which was called Cape Men-
docino. There is therefore some discrepancy between the accounts
of the voyage under the command of Cabrillo, or successively
of him and his pilot Ferrelo. NeHher of these navigators,

EXPEDITION OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE,

however, while they noticed and named various prominent points
of the coast, seem to have discovered the entrance to the great
Bay of San Francisco.

Sib Francis Drake. — From an old English Painting.

In 1577, Sir Francis, then only Captain Drake, already dis-
tinguished as an experienced navigator, fitted out, with the pecu-
niary aid of some friends, a buccaneering expedition against the

28 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

Spaniards, which ultimately led him round the globe. In those
days, and for a long time afterwards, the rich Spanish ships, which
bore over so many seas the wealth of their new-found world, were
the natural prey of the English buccaneers — or, to give them a
more honorable title, since they generally sailed under formal
license from the government, of the Enghsh privateers. Drake,
Cavendish, Dampier, and many other famous early navigators,
were all of that class. The wealth of the Philippines was gen-
erally conveyed by a single annual galleon from Manilla to
Acapulco, on its way to Europe. To intercept this particular
ship was one great aim of these privateers. Drake, in his expe-
dition of 1577, after safely threading the Straits of Magellan,
reached, at length, the Pacific, north of the equator, and appears,
in 1579, to have sailed along the shores of California. All along
the west coast of the Americas he had been capturing and plun-
dering the newly settled Spanish towns, and such ships as came
in his way. Wishing at length to return home, and afraid lest
the Spaniards might be waiting to catch him off the Straits of
Magellan, he tried to sail westward, and so reach England by the
Cape of Good Hope. This was in the autumn of 1579. Con-
trary winds preventing that course, " he was obliged," to use the
language of an old chronicler of the voyage, " to sail towards the
north ; in which course, having continued at least six hundred
leagues, and being got into forty-three degrees north latitude,
they found it intolerably cold ; upon which they steered south-
wards, till they got into tliirty-eight degrees north latitude,
where they discovered a country, which, from its white cliffs they
called Nova Albion, though it is now known by the name of
California.

" They here discovered a hay, which entering with a favorable
gale, they found several huts by the water side, well defended
from the severity of the weather. Going on shore, they found a
fire in the middle of each house, and the people lying round it
upon rushes. The men go quite naked, but the women have a
deer skin over their shoulders, and round their waist a covering
of bulrushes after the manner of hemp.

" These people bringing the admiral (Drake) a present of
feathers and cauls of network, he entertained them so kindlv

DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES.

and generously, that they were extremely pleased, and soon after-
wards they sent him a present of feathers and bags of tobacco.
A number of them coming to deliver it, gathered themselves
together at the top of a small hill, from the highest point of which
one of them harangued the admiral, whose tent was placed at the
bottom. When the speech was ended, they laid down their arms
and came down, offering their presents ; at the same time
returnins: what the admiral had 2;iven them. The women
remaining on the hill, tearing their hair and making dreadful
bowlings, the admiral supposed them engaged in making sacri-
fices, and thereupon ordered divine service to be performed at his
tent, at which these people attended with astonishment.

Sir Francis Drake and the California Indians.

" The arrival of the EngHsh in California being soon known
through the countr}"-, two persons in the character of ambassadors
came to the admiral, and informed him, in the best manner they

30 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

were able, tliat the kinj;- would visit him, if he might be assured
of coming in safety. Being satisfied on this point, a numerous
company soon appeared, in front of which was a very comely
person, bearing a kind of sceptre, on which hung two crowns, and
three chains of great length. The chains were of bones, and the
crowns of net work, curiously wrought with feathers of many
colors.

"Next to the sceptre-bearer came the king, a handsome
majestic person, surrounded by a number of tall men, dressed in
skins, who were followed by the common people, who, to make
the grander appearance, had painted their faces of various colors,
and all of them, even the children, being loaded with presents,

" The men being drawn up in line of battle, the admiral
stood ready to receive the king within the fences of his tent.
The company having halted at a distance, the sceptre-bearer made
a speech, half an hour long, at the end of which he began sing-
ing and dancing, in which he was followed by the king and all
the people ; who, continuing to sing and dance, came quite up to
the tent ; when sitting down, the king took off his crown of
feathers, placed it on the admiral's head, and put on him the
other ensigns of royalty ; and it is said that he made liim a
solemn tender of his luhole kingdom j all which the admiral
accepted in the name of the queen his sovereign, in hopes that
these proceedings might, one time or other, contribute to the
advantage of England.

" The common people, dispersing themselves among the admi-
ral's tents, professed the utmost admiration and esteem for the
English, whom they considered as more than mortal ; and accord-
ingly prepared to offer sacrifices to them, which the English
rejected with abhorrence, directing them, by signs, that their
religious worship was alone due to the Supreme Maker and
Preserver of all things.

" The admiral and some of his people, travelling to a distance
in the country, saw such a quantity of rabbits, that it appeared
an entire warren ; they also saw deer in such plenty as to run a
thousand in a herd. The earth of the country seemed to

PROMISE RICH VEINS OF GOLD AND SILVER, SOME OF THE ORE
BEING CONSTANTLY FOUND ON DIGGING.

BODEGA, SAN FRANCISCO, AND DRAKE'S BAYS, 31

" The admiral, at his departure, set up a pillar with a large
plate on it, on which was engraved her majesty's name, picture,
arms, and title to the country ; together with the admiral's name,
and the time of his arrival there."

This is a curious and interesting picture of the aborigines of
California. From the description of their naked bodies and
painted faces, their bowlings, singing and dancing, the girdles of
bulrushes of the women, and the " kind of sceptre, on which
hung " the chains of bone and the crowns of network " curiously
wrought with feathers of many colors," of the king, it may be
presumed that the people were in the rudest state of barbarism.
Though the earth seemed streaked with gold, or, as Pinkerton
says in his description of Drake's voyage, " the land is so rich in
gold and silver, that upon the slightest turning it up with a
spade or pick-axe, these rich metals plainly appear mixed with
the mould," yet the natives do not appear to have worn any orna-
ments made of these metals, which has usually been the case with
other savages when they had access to them. The beauty and
purity of the metals named, especially of gold, and the ease of
working in them, naturally render them precious in the eyes of
the most barbarous tribes. Unless, therefore, we suppose the
Indians to have been the most stupid and helpless people exist-
ing, it may be reasonably doubted whether so extensive indica-
tions of gold and silver were found as the broad statements of
the chroniclers seem to imply. Certainly, however, the traces of
the precious metals discovered by Drake were the first authentic
intimation of the mineral wealth of the country.

There is no reason to suppose that Drake knew of the previ-
ous discovery of the country by the Spaniards ; and accordingly
long afterwards, and even with people to this day, it has been
believed that he was the first discoverer of California. Queen
Elizabeth afterwards knighted him for his services in this and
previous expeditions, " telling him, at the same time," in the
words of the writer of his voyages already quoted, " that his ac-
tions did him more honor than his title." The queen, however,
took no steps to secure the country which her admiral had discov-
ered : and the " pillar, with a large plate on it," and all its rusted

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

engravings, may peradventure be yet some day discovered by the
antiquary.

In popular estimation the hay which Drake entered is behev-
ed to be that of San Francisco ; while many who might have liad
opportunities to examine into the subject have hastily concluded

Sir Francis Dvake's Bay, or Jack's Harbor

that it must have been Bodega Bay. There is, however, another
bay not far from these, and lying between them, known formerly
under the very name of Sir Francis Drake's Bay, though better
now as Jack's Harbor. This, on a careful examination of the
subject, seems to have been the true and only bay which Drake
ever visited on the coast. There is a sad confusion, even among
recent writers and geographers, as to the names and relative
positions of these bays. Most of them seem to think that
Bodega and Drake's Bays are the same. Thus Humboldt says,
" This port (San Francisco) is frequently confounded by geogra-

SIR FRANCIS drake's BAY. 33

phers with the Port of Drake farther north, under the 38° 10,'
of latitude, called by the Spaniards the Puerto de Bodega." The
latitude of Jack's Harbor, or Drake's Bay, is 37° 59' 5" (longitude
122° 5n\')j thus corresponding exactly with the statement of the
chronicler ; while San Francisco and Bodega Bays are a good
many miles to the south and north respectively of the parallel
named by him. If Drake had really entered San Francisco Bay,
it is more than likely that he, or his chronicler, would have said
something more of its peculiarities — its unusual excellence, and
the great arms which it stretches both to south and north. In
the English maps, constructed after Drake's voyage, there is a
bay laid down bearing his name ; although, owing to the general
ignorance of the coast and the confusion in regard to particular
bays alluded to, this bay has been often held to be the same as
that of Bodega. There is, therefore, every probability that the
Bay of San Francisco had never been seen at all by either the
Spanish or the English navigators (for there were others of the
latter nation after Drake alcmg the California coast), but that,
in reality, it was discovered by travellers on land, and most pro-
bably first by the missionaries in 1769. It may also be remarked
in corroboration of these opinions, that the white cliffs and the
abundance of rabbits seen by Drake, closely correspond to the
present description of Punta de los Reyes (Cape of Kings), and
the country around Jack's Harbor. The cliffs about this part of
the coast, for a space of nearly forty miles, resemble in height
and color, those of Great Britain in the English Channel, at
Brighton and Dover. Hence the propriety of the old designation
of the country, Neiu Albion. We give an illustration of these
clifis and of Drake's Bay. This bay has somehow grown out of
most peojile's remembrance, or at least their appi'cciation, since it
is a very safe and most important port of refuge along a foggy and
dangerous coast. A number of fishing vessels have made use of
it during the last few years, and it was their crews who dubbed
it Jack's Harbor, in ignorance of its previous name. It is likely
that public attention will be called to its peculiar advantages
before long. We think, however, that no new name should be
allowed to supersede the historical one of " Sir Francis Drake's

34 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

Bay." It would be a pity not to preserve some such remembrance
of one of the greatest and earHest navigators along our coasts.

On the 14th of October, 1587, Captain Thomas Cavendish,
afterwards knighted by Queen Elizabeth, when in a privateering
expedition against the Spaniards, fell in with Cape St. Lucas,
at the extremity of California. A fine bay, named by the Span-
iards Aguada Segura, is within this cape, and there Cavendish
lay in wait for the Acapulco galleon, laden with the wealth of the
Philipi)ines. At length she appeared, and after a severe fight,
was taken possession of by the English admiral. " This prize,"
says the relator of the voyage, " contained one hundred and
twenty-two thousand pezoes of gold, besides great quantities of
rich silks, satins, damask and musk, and a good stock of provi-
sions." Pretty fair all that for an English adventurer ! In those
days, piracy was honorable^ and legalized by formal license, though
the spoil was only gold and silver and light moveable goods — booty
of tiie common robber. After all, the old buccaneers were poor
grovelling souls. In our own times, pirates — called " filibusters,"
whose business is notoriouslv unlawful, have much grander views
of glory and profit. Cuba and Sonora, which are countries equal
to Italy of the old world in beauty, fertility and real wealth, are
certainly prizes worth stealing and fighting for — the rewards of
Alexanders, Caesars and Bonapartes. But then, principles of
action being nearly the same, " Young America" is very much
smarter than " Old England,"

The next Englishman who is specially recorded to have
touched the California coast is Captain Woodes Rogers, who was
in command of the usual filibustering or privateering expeditions.
This was in November, 1709. He describes the aborigines of the
peninsula as being " quite naked, and strangers to the European
manner of traificking. They lived in huts made of boughs and
leaves, erected in the form of bowers, with a fire before the
door, round which th(?y lay and slept. The men were quite naked,
and the women had only a short petticoat reaching scarcely to the
knee, made of silk grass, or the skins of pelicans or deers. Some
ot them wm-e pearls about their necks, which they fastened with
a string of silk grass, having first notched them round : and
Captam Rogers imagined that they did not know how to bore

CAPTAIN WOODES ROGERS.

them. These pearls were mixed with sticks, bits of shells and
little red berries, which they thought so great an ornament that
they would not accept of glass beads of various colors, which the
English would have given them. The men are straight and well
built, having long black hair, and are of a dark brown complexion.
Tliev live bv hunting and fishing. Thev use bows and arrows,

Landing of Captain Woodos Rogers, — from an old English engraving.

and are excellent marksmen. The women, whose features are
rather disagreeable, are employed in making fishing lines, or in
gathering grain (doubtless what grew spontaneously), which they
grind upon a stone. The people were willing to assist the English
in filling water, and would supply them with whatever they could
get ; they were a very honest people, and would not take the
least thing without permission." This description, and that
already given from Drake's voyage, make up a pretty complete
picture of the aborigines of the Californias. They appear to have
been a simple, honest, good-natured, stupid race of people, and,

11484B0

36 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

in most respects, resemble the savages which we find in other
newly discovered countries.

Cai)tain Rogers was, of course, lying in ambush for the
" great IManilla ship ; " and, in due course of time, she appeared
and was captured. " The prize was called Nuestra Seriora de la
Incarnacion, commanded by Sir John Pichberty, a gallant French-
man ; and the prisoners said that the cargo in India amounted
to two millions of dollars. She carried one hundred and ninety-
three men, and mounted twenty guns."

As illustrating the career of these English buccaneers, and
the state of terror in which the Spaniards were constantly kept
by their depredations, and which was one of the chief causes that
induced the Spanish Government, as we shall afterwards see,
strenuously to prosecute farther discoveries and settlements along
the coast of California, we shall give a copy of a deed, or instru-
ment, executed between the said Captain Rogers and the town
of Guiaquil. The exploits of Rogers and his men are indeed
much later in date than some of the expeditions yet to be noticed,
of the Spanish navigators along the California coast ; still, as they
forcibly explain one reason, at least, ivhy such exjpeditions were
undertaken on the part of the Spaniards, it appears better to
notice them here than in mere chronological order. The notices \
of the voyages of Drake, Cavendish and Rogers, are taken from I
accounts contained in an old folio volume of voyages and travels ;
kindly placed at our disposal by the " Society of California Pio-

neers."

The "high contracting parties" entered into the following

agreement

"CONTKAOT FOK THE KA.N80M OF THE TOWN OF GuiAQUIL:

" Whereas tlie City of Guiaquil, ]ately ia subjection to Philip V., King
of Spain, is now taken by storm, and in possession of the Captains Thomas
Dover, Woodes Rogers, and Stephen Courtney,"— [the expedition, fitted out
at the cost of some " IJritish gentlemen," consisted of the Dul-e, a ship of
three hundred tons burthen, thirty guns and one hundred and seventy men,
commanded by Rogers, and the Duchess, of two hundred and seventy tons,
twenty-six guns, and one hundred and fifty-one men, under the command of
Courtney]— " commanding a body of her Majesty of Great Britain's subjects ;
we, the underwritten, are content to become hostages for the said city, and to
continue in the custody of the said Captains Thomas Dover, Woodes Rogers and
Stephen Courtney, till thirty thousand pieces of gold should be paid to them

RANSOM OF GUIAQUIL. 37

for the ransom of the said citj', two new shipb, and six barks ; during which
time no hostility is to be committed on either side, between this and Puna :
the said sum to be paid at Puna, within six days from the date hereof; and
then the liostages to be discharged, and all the prisoners to be delivered im-
mediately ; otherwise the said hostages do agree to remain prisoners till the
said sum is discharged in any other part of the world.

In Witness Whereof, We have voluntarily set our hands, this twenty-
seventh day of April, old stile, in the year of our Lord, 1709."

This ransom seems to have been punctually paid, and the
hostages faithfully liberated. However, Captains Thomas Dover,
Woodes Rogers and Stephen Courtney appear, in addition, to
have plundered the town pretty thoroughly.

CHAPTER II.

Eipeditions of Viscaino.— Admiral Otondo and Father Kino.— First settlement, and introduction of
tlie priest nilo in tlie Califurnias.— Failure and witlidravval of the first missions.— Renewed at-
tempts to malie settlements.— Father Salva-Tlerra and his CQadjiitors. - Final establisliment of the
Jesuits ill till" country.— Geographical discoveries of Father Kino.— Jesuits expelled and super-
seded by Franciscan Friars; these, in turn, by the Dominican Monks.— Population and physical
character of Old or Lower California.

We shall now return to the progress of the Spaniai-ds in dis-
covering and settling the coast of California : — In 1596 Gaspar
de Zuniga, Count de Monte-rey, then viceroy of Mexico, received
an order from Philip II. to make farther discoveries and settle-
ments on the coast of California. The visit of Drake, and his
naming and claiming the country as first discoverer, for Queen
Elizabeth, had struck the inhabitants of the coast lower down
with consternation ; and already Englishmen, particularly the
famous Thomas Cavendish, and others, had fortified themselves
on the coast, and molested the rich Spanish ships which yearly
sailed between the Philippine Islands and New Spain, and which
generally made the coast of California about Cape Mendocino.
At that j)eriod, there was much talk of a north-east passage from
the Pacific to the old world by the Straits of Anian (Behring's
Straits), and the S})anish Government in Europe was considerably
alarmed lest the English should, by that probable route, strike a
deadly blow at their unprotected colonies on the west coast of the
Americas. An expedition to make fresh discoveries was accord-
ingly undertaken, and put under the command of General Sebas-
tian Viscaino, a man of great and tried abilities,

Viscaino accordingly sailed from Acapulco, but does not
apj)ear to have proceeded far northwards ; for, in the same year
(15'J6), we find him returned to New Spain. Want of provisions
and unfortunate disputes with the Indians, produced this speedy

EXPEDITIONS OF VISCAINO.

result. The Spanish Government, however, was keeping the
matter in view. In 1599 another order was dispatched from
Europe to Count Monte-rey to fit out a new expedition for the
purposes already mentioned. This again was placed under the
command of General Viscaino. In May, 1602, Viscaino, in
pursuance of his instructions, sailed from Acapulco, and proceeded

View in tlie Interior of California.

northwards till he reached the forty-second degree of latitude.
Up to the twenty-sixth parallel, he appears to have surveyed the
coast minutely ; but between that degree and the most northern
limits of his voyage, he seems to have been satisfied with merely
keeping the land in sight. He discovered the ports of San Diego
and Monterey, which latter was so named in honor of the viceroy.
Still not a word of San Francisco Bay. Indeed it is quite
evident that up to this period that great harbor had escaped
the observation of all the navigators who had attempted to
explore the coast. Viscaino, excited by his imperfect dis-
coveries, and full of hope of making more important ones on
a fresh expedition, solicited the viceroy for permission to pur-
sue it at his own expense ; but the viceroy referred him to the

40 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

Court at Madrid, who seemed to have taken the business into
their own hands. Viscaino therefore visited Spain, and pressed
his suit, but in vain. At last, in KiOG, after Viscaino, wearied
and sick at heart with " hope deferred," had retired, moody and
discontented, to Mexico, another ordinance was issued by PhiHp,
conuuanding a fresh expedition of discovery and settlement to be
undertaken. The conduct of this was bestowed upon Viscaino,
who accepted the charge with alacrity ; but before any progress
was made in the matter, he was seized with a fatal distemper.
After his death nothing was done or said about the expedition.

Various attempts on a moderate scale, partly by adventurers
at their own cost, and partly under royal ordinances, were subse-
quently made to prosecute the survey and settlement of the coast.
In 1615, in 1633 and 1634, in 1640, 1642, 1648, 1665, and
1668, several fruitless efforts were made for these purposes. In
the interval, the public mind was tilled with magnificent views of
the wealth of the scarcely discovered country. It was known
that pearls, of great beauty and value, were found at various
places in the gulf and along the coast. Perhaps also the glowing
statements made by Sir Francis Drake of the golden sands and
other mineral riches which he saw there, helped to fire the ima-
ginations of the Spaniards. Omne ignotum pro magnifico. Cali-
fornia was long viewed as the Dorado of New Spain ; and was
believed not merely to be abounding in pearls and gold and silver,
but also in diamonds, and all manner of other precious metals and
gems. Our own days have justified these sparkling fancies, though
scarcely i)orhaps in the exact manner and localities of which the
old Spaniards dreamed.

In 1677, instructions were, after long and mature delibera-
tion, sent by tlie Court at Madrid to Don Francis Payo Enriquez
de Rivera, archbishop of Mexico, and viceroy of New Spain, to
undertake afresh the survey, conquest and settlement of Califor-
nia ; and that Admiral Pinadero, who had previously carried on
some private expeditions for the same end, at his own cost,
should be emj)loyed in the affair ; — that, if he declined, the
business should be offered to, and managed by others, also at
their expense, under certain specified conditions ; — but that, if no
volunteer came forward, the undertaking should be conducted at

ATTEMPTS TO SETTLE CALIFORNIA. 41

the cost of the Crown. The enterprise fell to Admiral Don
Isidro Otondo and Antillion, who signed an instrument for that
purjiose, in December, 1678, which was approved of at Madrid
on 29th December, 1679. By this deed, the spiritual government
was conferred on the Jesuits and Father Eusebio Francisco Klihn,
— a German by birth, called by the Spaniards Kino, and who was
a distinguished member of the Society of Jesus. This seems the
origin of the connection of the Jesuits and priest class with Cali-
fornia. Otondo and his Jesuits put to sea from Chacala, in May,
1683, and sailed up the gulf During two years the admiral and
his missionary priests, who had meanwhile learned the native
languages, met with various success among the Indians of the
peninsula, many of whom they succeeded in converting to Chris-
tianity. However, they occasionally found rebellious tribes ; and
on the whole, were unable to make any serious impression on their
minds, or to establish any permanent settlement of importance.
This was caused indeed more by the natural barrenness of the
country, and the difficulty and expense of supporting existence
there, than by the vicious habits of the natives, who are described
as a simple, inoffensive and feeble race, more prone to consider
their white visitors as absolute deities on earth than as invaders
of their territorial rights.

The Spanish Court, which appears to have been drawn into a
large expenditure by this expedition, and by another, which im-
mediately followed, conducted by the same parties, soon got tired
of the subject, and judged the conquest and settlement of the
country to be impracticable. They declined, therefore, to prose-
cute the undertaking farther ; but knowing the political impor-
tance of having it somehow accomplished, they recommended the
Society of Jesus to finish it, and ofiered that body large annua]
subsidies from the royal treasury in aid. The Society, after
discussing the " estimates " of Admiral Otondo and Father Kino,
and their own " ways and means," respectfully rejected the royal
proposal ; and thus a measure which had been agitated for nearly
two hundred years, and of which all admitted the political im-
portance, wliile the personal and pecuniary reward of success was
believed to be immense, was abruptly brought to a close. So
doubtful, expensive and dangerous Jid the undertaking appear.

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

that the Crown refused the petition of Captain Francisco Lu-
zcnilhi to attempt it at his own expense. In the year 1G94,
indeed, a royal license was granted to Captain Francisco Itaniarra
for making a descent at his own risk and charges ; but he had no
better success than his predecessors.

Spanish ship of tlie seventeenth century, and coast of California.

The missionaries, who had accompanied the expeditions of
Admiral Otondo, were now drafted to different places elsewhere,
although many of them deeply regretted that the rich harvest of
heathenism should be so suddenly and unexpectedly abandoned,
just when the sickle was sharpened and the laborers were in
the field. They had labored with great industr}' to accom-
plish an object toward which they looked forward with anx-
ious hopes, which they now saw would never be realized.
They thought that their Indian conversions would, sooner or
later, have extended over the whole tribes in California, had
they been enabled to retain settlements there ; while it was
more than probable that their new converts would relapse into
thrir ,,l(l idolatry on the departure of their spiritual teachers.
Witlidut detailing, therefore, the various steps taken by the

FATHER SALVA-TIERRA AND HIS COADJUTORS. 43

Fathers to preserve and advance their spiritual ascendency in
California, it may be sufficient to say, that Father Kino, who had
these conversions much at heart, met with Father Salva-Tierra,
a man, like himself, of great enthusiasm for the Catholic foith,
and of untiring courage, and much benevolence and sweetness of
disposition. These two men, — particularly the latter, who had
chosen St. Francis Xavier as his model, — were the true apostles
of California. Somewhat later. Fathers Francisco Maria Piccolo
and Juan Ugarte associated themselves with these pioneers of
Christianity and civilization. Their biographies would make an
indispensable and most interesting chapter in the early history of
Lower California, but are out of place in this short summary of
the progress of discovery and gradual settlement of the general
country. It is sufficient to observe that their pious zeal urged
them on against every obstacle — the unwillingness of their own
Society of Jesus — the indifference of the Court, when it had to
advance the whole funds — the delays of officials — the poverty of
their own means, and the fewness of their coadjutors. At last,
the eloquence and pertinacity of Father Salva-Tierra kindled
some life among the superiors of theii- order and in a few wealthy
laymen. The last assisted the Society by large donations ; and
soon subscriptions began to pour in from the general public, to
promote the pious work of conquering California to Christianity.
A crusade — peaceful, if the devil got frightened and retired
from the contest ; but warlike, if need were — was proclaimed ;
and all were invited to support the scheme by pecuniary means,
while the Spanish Government supplied the necessary soldiers to
protect the Fathers, and execute their decrees and those of
heaven. It was all, in terms of the motto and ruling spirit of
the Society, ad majorem Dei gloriam ; and great indeed would
be the reward in heaven of the patrons of the business. After
many hardships, and a slow, j)ainful progress, the Jesuit mission-
aries succeeded in planting various missions over the whole
peninsula. Aided by subscriptions from the pious, and donations
from the Crown, they were enabled to give the simple Indians
daily food and a scanty raiment, and soon, with unwearied pa-
tience, converted them into excellent and faithful servants and
devout Christians. They had no more sense than mere children,

44 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

and they were accordingly treated as such. Like children, they
were always helieving and obedient. Ignorant and heli)less, they
were slaves both in body and mind, and knew no will but that of
their si)iritual and temporal lords.

Father Salva-Tierra, in 1705, was chosen provincial of his
Order in Mexico, and thus absolutely governed the country both
in spiritual and temporal things. It was in 1700 and 1701, by
some accounts, and in 1709 by others, that, in the course of sev-
eral journeys undertaken for the purpose. Father Kino discovered
that California was united with the main land. We have seen
that this fact was known as early as 1541, where it appears a
peninsula in the map of Castillo ; but somehow the circumstance
had been unaccountably forgotten, and the contrary was almost
universally believed.

In 1767, the Fathers lost the missions, in consequence of an
ordinance issued by Charles III. for the instant and general ex-
pulsion of the Jesuits from all the Spanish dominions. This
stringent decree was immediately obeyed in the Mexican provinces,
where the Jesuits were arrested without delay, and hundreds of
them shipped off to Europe. They were succeeded in California
by a body of Franciscan Friars from Mexico ; but these in turn
were soon superseded by the Dominican Monks, who still retain
possession of the country.

The population of Lower California was never great, and
towards the end of last century was rapidly diminishing. Hum-
boldt, in his " Political Essay on New Spain," estimates that the
population, in 1803, did not exceed nine thousand of all races, —
somewhat more than the half of which number consisting of the
domesticated converts of the Fathers. The missions had then
been reduced to sixteen. Mr. Alexander Forbes, in his " History"
of Upper and Lower California" (London, 1839), estimates the
total population, in 1835, not to exceed fourteen or fifteen thou-
sand. Compared with New California, the old country of that
name is a dry and barren land — with a serene and beautiful sky,
indeed, but with a rocky, or sandy and arid soil, where rains sel-
dom M\, and vegetation is consequently of little account. Such
a country could never become very populous, either in a savage
or a civilized state.

CHAPTER III.

First settlement of New or Upper California by Franciscan Monks. — Supposed earliest discovery of
San Francisco Bay. — Origin of the name — Establishment of a Mission and Presidio there, and
ceremonies on the occasion. -Gradual establishment of Missions and Presidios over the country. —
List of these, and population of same at various dates. — The gente de razon and the hestias, or
the rational cri'atures and beasts of the country. — Causes why free white settlers few in number. —
Character of the natives as given by Venegas, and other writers. — Progress and apparent destiny
of the Anglo-Saxons in thi< Pacific.

Still later than Old California, and upwards of two hundred
years after its first discovery, New or Upper California, was first
settled. The Spanish Court, afraid, as of old, lest some of the
other maritime nations of Europe should settle on the north-west
coasts of America, and induced by other political reasons,, alluded
to in the previous chapters, sent instructions to the Marquis de
Croix, then viceroy of New Spain, to found missions, and 2)residio8
for their military protection, in the ports of San Diego and
Monterey, and at various other parts of the country. This
was accordingly done, with the aid of the church, in 1769, and
following years ; and immediately, in gratitude or in terms of
special agreement, both the spiritual and temporal government of
the country were put under the control of certain monks of the
Order of St. Francis, two being placed at the head of each mis-
sion established. Presidios, in addition to those at San Diego
and Monterey, were subsequently formed at Santa Barbara and
San Francisco. Father Junipero Serra, — a man of the Salva-
Tierra and Kino stamp, — was the first presiding missionary ; and
under his immediate auspices the mission of San Diego was
founded in 1769, being the earliest.

Without dwelling on the successive establishment of the
other missions, let us say a few words upon that of San Francisco.
The missionaries, in proceeding northwards, with the intention

46 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

of reaching Monterey, happened to take the eastern side of the
ran'^e of mountains whicli borders the coast north of San Diego,
which phice they had just left, after estabhshing its mission.
They inulesignedly passed by Monterey, and journeyed on till
they reached the magnificent bay and harbor which are now
called San Francisco ; and which are said to be so named from
the following circumstance : — Father Junipero, on leaving Lower
California, had received instructions from the visitador, or inspector-
general of the Spanish Government, respecting the names of the
proposed missions, and the saints carefully selected from the
calendar, to whose special patronage they should be entrusted ;
but among them the name of St. Francis did not happen to occur.
" What ! " exclaimed the good missionary, surprised and shocked
at such an insulting neglect, " is not our own dear Father, St.
Francis, to have a mission assigned to him ? " To this remon-
strance, the visitador calndy replied, " If Saint Francis wish a
mission, let him show you a good port, and then it will bear his
name." When accordingly the missionaries, in their progress
northwards, discovered the s[)acious bay mentioned, they cried
out, " This then is the port to which the visitador referred, and
to which the saint has led us — blessed be his name \" And
forthwith they named it San Francisco Bay, in compliment to
their j)atron and guide. They next set up the usual cross, took
formal possession, and returned to San Diego, where they arrived
on the 24th January, 1770. From any thing that can be cer-
tainly learned of the proceedings of previous travellers and voy-
agers, this seems the true and first discover}'^ of that great bay —
nearly two hundred years after Sir Francis Drake was reputed to
have visited it.

The mission itself of San Francisco was only founded in 1776,
though it had been projected ever since the discovery of the
bay, about the end of October, 1769. On the 27th June of the
first mentioned year, an expedition which had started by land
from Monterey, arrived on the borders of a small lake, — the same
which is now called " Washer wotnan's Lagoon," — near the
sea-shore, from which it is separated by a low sand-hill. This is
situated towards the northern extremity of the Peninsula of San
Fmncisco, and the surplus waters of which discharge themselves

MISSION AND PRESIDIO OF SAN FRANCISCO. 47

into the strait that connects the bay with the ocean, and which
was afterwards called the " Golden Gate." The neighborhood of
this lake promised to be the best spot for establishing the mission ;
though it was subsequently planted about two miles to the south.
A store-ship had previously left Monterey with the necessary sup-
plies for the wants of the missionary band. Some soldiers, and
a few families from Sonora, as intending settlers, had accompanied
the expedition. They carried with them a number of black cat-
tle and sheep, horses, mules, field and garden seeds, and other
necessary means of stocking and making the settlements a jjrofit-
able investment. While waiting the arrival of the store-ship from
Monterey, which, owing to foul winds, did not take place till the
18th August following, the expedition began to make preparations
for their permanent abode by cutting down timber, and selecting
what appeared to be the most eligible site for a settlement. On
the l7th day of September, solenm possession was taken of the
presidio — " the day," according to Father Palou, the historian of
the achievements of Father Junipero, "being the festival of the
impression of the sores of Saint Francis, the patron of the port.
After blessing, adoring, and planting the holy cross, the first mass
was chaunted, and the ceremony concluded by a Te Deum ; the
act of possession in the name of our sovereign being accompanied
with many discharges of artillery and musketry by sea and land."
After these ceremonies, the harbor was surveyed, both from the
shore and by means of a launch, from the water ; when it was
ascertained that there was only one outlet to the sea, that by
which the store-ship had entered. On the 9th day of November
— being the day of Saint Francis — a similar ceremony was per-
formed on taking possession of the mission ; when, as Father
Palou remarks of the establishment and consecration of the mis-
sion and church of San Fernando, " the want of an organ and
other musical instruments was supplied by the continual discharge
of the fire-arms during the ceremony, and the want of incense,
of which they had none, by the smoke of the muskets." No
doubt the pious priests thought this was a pretty way of pleasing
the Omnipotent. Certainly it was one admirably suited to en-
chain the minds of the scared natives. The white " sorcerers "
were clearly more clever than the brown ones. This mission sub-

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

soquently boro the name Dolores, in commemoration of the suf-
Ibriniis of the Vii'rin.

Mission of San Francisco.

The Fathers showed much good taste in selecting the site of
the mission buildings, which was a small fertile plain, embosomed
among gentle, green-clad hills, little more than a mile from the
shore and about two miles from the centre of the present city of
San Francisco. Several tiny rivulets of clear, sweet water, met
about tlie spot, whose united streams were conducted to the bay
by one larger creek, known by the name of Mission Creek. Far-
ther north the land was one continued succession of bleak sand-
hills, among which the present city is situated. An exception,
however, must be made of the spot where the presidio was estab-
lished, which indeed was very prettily and agreeably situated A
small cove lay to the eastward of the presidio, within the narrow
entrance to the bay, where good anchorage ground and shelter
could be had. This was the original port of the mission, though
latterly the cove of Yerba Bucna, a few miles distant, and within
the bay itself, was more frequently adopted as a harbor.

On the arrival of this expedition at the bay, many of the
natives had affectionately approached the missionaries with de-

NAMES AND FOUNDATIONS OF THE MISSIONS.

monstrations of peace, and all the signs of extreme pleasure at
their appearance ; but before the ceremonies alluded to — the im-
posing chanted masses and Te Deums, and still more wonderful sal-
vos of artillery and musketry — had been played, the whole of the
natives who had inhabited the place, having been surprised by an
unfriendly tribe, suddenly disappeared. This untoward circum-
stance somewhat delayed the conversions, the first baptism hav-
ing taken place only on Saint John's Day, December 27th, of
the same year.

The names and foundations of the various missions, up to
1803, according to the authority of Humboldt, taking them in
their order from south to north, with their respective Indian pop-
ulations at the close of 1802, are as follows : —

Foundations.

1769
1798
1776
1771
1797
1782
1786
1787
1772
1797
1791
1771
1770
1797
1794
1777
1797
1776

Missions.

Males.

Females.

I San Diego ,

San Luis Rey de Francia, ,

; San Juan Capistrano,

; San Gabriel,

I San Fernando,

I San Buenaventura

! Santa Barbara

j La Purissima Concepcion, ,
] San Luis Obispo,

San Miguel,

Soledad,

San Antonio de Padua, . . .
i San Carlos de Monterey, . .

'San Juan Bautista,

j Santa Cruz,

j Santa Clara,

San Jose,

San Francisco,

Total.

737
256
502
532
317
436
521
457
374
309
296
568
376
530
238
736
327
433

822
276
511
515
297
502
572
571
325
305
267
484
312
428
199
555
295
381

7617

Total.

1559
532

1013

1047
614
938

1093

1028
699
614
563

1052
688
958
437

1291
622
814

15562

l^OTE.— Forbes gives this table as taken from Hmnboldt ; but there is a
slight discrepancy in the two sets of figures. It is possible that the English
translation is incorrect. Forbes' table distinguishes the males and females
which Humboldt's does not. Forbes' table is therefore adopted Avith some
verbal corrections from Humboldt direct. This translation, or the original
work itself, has various discrepancies in its figures. For instance, it talks of
the population being 15,562, at one place, while in its table, for the same year,
the figures summed up, make 15,630.

These populations include only the converted Indians, who
were attached to the missions. There are no statistics which can

50 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

be relied upon as to the numbers of wild Indians, — or gentiles, as
they were called by the Spaniards. Indeed as these gentiles were
naturally of an emigratory habit, roaming from place to place in
search of game, or in pursuit of hostile tribes, they could scarcely
be classed as among the permanent inhabitants of any particular
district of country. It was estimated by Humboldt that, in 1802,
the number of whites, mestizoes and mulattoes, and who lived
either in the presidios or in the service of the monks, was only
about thirteen hundred. These were the gente de razon, or
rational creatures of the country, in contradistinction to the
natives, who were considered only as bestias, or beasts.

In 1802, the total Indian population connected with the
missions, when they were eighteen in number, as shown by the
above table, amounted to 15,562. In 1801, Humboldt says, that
the Indian population was 13,668, and in 1790, when the mis-
sions were eleven in number, it was 7748. La Perouse, in 1786,
when there were only ten missions, estimates the converted or
domesticated Indians at 5143. These figures show a very rapid
increase of population, or rather of conversions, in so few years.
The real increase of population, however, would have been con-
siderable among the gente de razon had not the traditionary cus-
toms or laws, which regulated the Spanish presidios for ages,
stood in the way of the settling of the white population. The
governing priests were jealous of their white subjects {the j^eople
of reason), and wished only a tame Indian population, who
were supposed unable to reason. Therefore the soldiers of the
presidios were not allowed to establish themselves as colonists,
nor was any building permitted to be erected in the neighborhood
of these fortresses. Indeed no marriages were tolerated anions:
the soldiers, without the consent of the Spanish Crown, and such
consent the Fathers hindered as much as lay in their power.
Notwithstanding these impohtic restrictions, the fertility and
pleasantness of the land were so great as gradually to draw a
small number of white settlers from other provinces of New
Spain ; and although grants of land could only flow from the
Fathers themselves, yet, either through flivor or direct interest,
such grants were occasionally obtained, though generally the land
thus given lay at a considerable distance from the missions and
presidios.

POPULATION OF THE MISSIONS, 51

The Indian population attached to the missions were mean-
while becoming an industrious, contented and numerous class,
though indeed, in intelligence and manly spirit, they were little
better than hestias — beasts, after all. Generally speaking, the
Indians along the whole north-west coast of America were a verv
inferior order of beings to the great tribes who inhabited the
Atlantic border ; and, in particular, the different races who
dwelt in California were but poor wandering clans who subsisted
on what they could procure by hunting and fishing, and on the
fruits and grains which grew spontaneously ; but they knew
nothing of the arts of agriculture, or even of a pastoral life.
They might properly enough be compared to the aborigines of
Australia or to the Hottentots, or, perhaps, even the Bosjesmans
of Southern Africa, who have been considered the most barbarous
and brute-like people on the earth. On this subject, Humboldt
remarks that " the Indians of the Bay of San Francisco were
equally wretched at that time (the establishment of the missions),
with the inhabitants of Van Diemen's Land." Venegas has said
of the aborigines of the peninsula, who closely resembled their
brethren in Upper California, that " it is not easy for Europeans
who were never out of their own country to conceive an adequate
idea of these people. For even in the lea«t frequented corners
of the globe there is not a nation so stupid, of such contracted
ideas, and weak both in body and mind, as the unhappy Califor-
nians. Their characteristics are stupidity and insensibility, want
of knowledge and reflection, inconstancy, impetuosity and blind-
ness of appetite, an excessive sloth, and abhorrence of all fatigues
of every kind, however trifling or brutal ; in fine, a most wretched
want of every thing which constitutes the real man and renders
him rational, inventive, tractable, and useful to himself and
society."

The worthy Father Michael certainly paints, in dull enough
colors, his proteges and converts. It may be farther remarked,
that the Indians appear to have had little or no notion of religion,
although they seem to have had a kind of sorcerers among them,
who amused or terrified themselves and their patients with sundry
superstitious observances. Some writers, such as La Perouse,
say, that they had no knowledge of a God or a future state ;

.r2

ANN'ALS OF SAX FRANCISCO.

Others siuii)ly call them idolaters. The natives around San Fran-
cisco Bay appear to have burned the corpses of their people, while
other tribes, more to the south, always buried theirs. Occasion-
allv, they appear to have eaten pieces of the bodies of their more
distinguished adversaries killed in battle, although this was pro-

^^^V\x ^V^

^ >« ^A'S^ •^-\

1. Wakla, chief of tlie Yuba tribe, — civilized and cmplo5-ed by Mr. S. Brannan. 2. A partly
civilized Indian. 3. A wild Indian. — From daguerreotypes by Mr. "W. Shew.

bably only to insure, as they imagined, that a portion of the
brave spirit and good qualities of the slain should enter into and
be incorporated with their own systems along with the literal
flesh of their antagonists.

These notices and the extracts previously given from the voy-
ages of Drake and Cavendish, abundantly establish the fact of
tho wretched state of humanity in California. And so it might
have been till doomsday, had not a new people appeared on the
scene. The Spanish population, and the Fathers, could not, or
would not, as truly they did not, as we may afterwards see, do
any thing to promote the happiness of the human race in the

THE ANGLO-SAXONS IN THE PACIFIC. 53

country. Men feed the ox and the sheep for their milk and
fleece, the hog for his flesh, the ass for the strength of his back,
and all for their increase ; so did the Fathers feed their Indian
converts, and find abundant profit in their labor and personal
services, whom they left, as they perhaps found, if they did not
transform them into moral beasts, just as tame, dull and silly,
dirty, diseased and stupidly obstinate as the other brutes named.
Meanwhile, the little independence, natural intelligence and su-
periority of mind and character which even the rudest savages
possess over the lower creatures were gradually sapped and
brushed away, and the Christian converts left ignorant, super-
stitious and besotted, having neither thoughts nor passions,
strength nor will, but at the command and beck of their spiritual
and temporal teachers and masters. Better, a thousand times,
that the missions and all their two-legged and four-legged beasis
should be ruthlessly swe[)t away, than that so fine a country, one
80 favored and framed by bountiful nature for the support, com-
fort and elevation of her worthier children, should longer lie a
physical and moral waste — a blotch on the fair face of creation.

But another race was destined soon to blow aside the old
mists of ignorance and stupidity, and to develope the exceeding-
riches of the land, which had lain, undisturbed and concealed,
during so many ages. The Spaniards had scarcely proceeded any
way in the great work, — if they had not rather retarded it, — when
the Anglo-Saxons, the true and perhaps only type of modern
progress, hastily stepped in, and unscrupulously swept away both
their immediate forerunners as effete workers, and the aborigines
of the land, all as lumberers and nuisances in the great western
highway of civilization. This highway is fated to girdle the
globe, and probably, in the course of a few centuries, will join
the original starting-point in the natal home of the '' Pilgrim
Fathers " in old England. The " pioneers " of California are our
" Pilgrim Fathers," and there need be not the slightest doubt
but that the empire, or rather the great union of peoples and
nations in the Pacific will soon — perhaps in fifty years, perhaps
in a century — rival, if not surpass the magnificent States of the
Atlantic. Indians, Spaniards of many provinces, Hawaiians,
Japanese, Chinese, Malays, Tartars and Kussians, must all give

54 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

place to the resistless flood of Anglo-Saxon or American progress.
These peoples need not, and most of them probably cannot be
swept from the face of the earth ; but undoubtedly their national
characteristics and 0])posing qualities and customs must be ma-
terially modified, and closely assimilated to those of the civilizing
and dominant race. The English in India have already shown
how a beginning may be made ; the Americans, on the California
coasts, and farther west, will still more develope the modern
system of progress. People may differ in opinion as to the equity
of the particular steps attending the process, and many honest
folk may even doubt its ultimate benefit to mankind ; yet that
some such grand result will hereafter be evolved from the energy
and ebullition of the American character, and from the peculiar
circumstances of American position in the world, must be evident
to all who take a dispassionate and unprejudiced view of the
matter.

Not only are Japan and China much nearer to the Californian 1

coast than India is to England ; but with the aid of steam the

time for accomplishing the distance is immensely reduced. In

the palmy days of the English conquests in India, her ships took

several years to make the voyage out and home. Now, the ocean

steamship may traverse the whole northern Pacific from California

to China, and back again, within two months ! Indian sepoys

fought the battles of England against their own countrymen,

Chinese sepoys may do the same for Americans. China, like

India, has been long used to, and its national spirit broken

by the usurping governments of foreign races. And even

while we write, its extensive dominions are being separated

by a wide-spread and hitherto successful rebellion, into detached

kingdoms under the sway of military chiefs. These, standing

alone, and mutually jealous of their conquering neighbors, may

be easily played off, one against another, by a white people

skilled enough to take advantage of circumstances and direct the

moves of the political chess-board. So it was with the English

in India ; and so it may be with the Americans in China. Only

give us time. England has not been very scrupulous in her

stealthy progress over Hindostan, Ceylon and Birmah. Then

neither need America fear her reproaches, if she, in like manner,

THE ANGLO-SAXONS IN THE PACIFIC. 55

acquire, conquer, or annex the Sandwich Islands, the Islands of
Japan, those of the great Malayan Archipelago, or the mighty
" Flowery Empire " itself A few more years, and a few millions of
Americans on the Pacific may realize the gigantic scheme, which
even our fathers, on the Atlantic border, would have laughed at
as impossible and ridiculous. The railway across, or through the
Snowy and Rocky Mountains, which will bind all North America
with its iron arm into one mighty empire, will facilitate the
operation. And then San Francisco — in the execution and
triumph of that scheme, will assuredly become what Liverpool,
or even London is to England, and what New York is to the
Middle and Eastern States of America — a grand depot for num-
berless manufactures and produce, and a harbor for the fleets of
every nation. Long before that time, the English and American
peoples will have finished the last great struggle which must
some day take place between them for the commercial and polit-
ical supremacy of the world. It is more than probable that the
hosts of English from India, and Americans from California,
will meet on the rich and densely peopled plains of China, and
there decide their rival pretensions to universal dominion. What-
ever may, in 1854, be thought of the relative strength of the
two nations, it appears very evident to the people of America,
that the natural increase of their population must necessarily
make them victors in the end.

CHAPTER IV.

Conduct of the Fathers towards the natires.— Their mode of instructing, employing and subsisting
the converts.— The Fathers do not appear to have promoted the true welfare of the aborigines,
or done any good to humanity.— Pictures, if gaudily colored and horrible in subject, great aids
to conversion. — Missions and population of the country at recent dates. — Table on this subject.—
Tables of the farm produce and domestic cattle of the country.— Table of prices.

It may now be necessary to explain shortly in wliat manner the
Fathers conducted their missions, and the state of their property
and finances down to the decline of their prosperity and ultimate
fall. Their mode of conversion, if not very ingenious, was easy
enough. It was like the teaching of a monkey, or a dog, by
means of food and caresses, or sometimes by kicks, to perform a
few simple tricks. The Indian — like the hare in Meg Dodds', or
it may be Mrs. Glass's Cookery Book, being first caught, was
dressed in the following fashion, as described by Captain Beechy,
in his second voyage : — " I happened to visit the mission about
this time and saw these unfortunate beings under tuition. They
were clothed in blankets, and arrayed in a row before a blind
Indian who understood their dialect, and was assisted by an
alcalde to keep order. Their tutor began by desiring them to
kneel, informing them that he was going to teach them the names
of the persons composing the Trinity, and that they were to
repeat in Spanish what he dictated. The neophytes being thus
arranged, the speaker began : — Santissima Trinidad, Bios,
Jesu Christo, Espiritu Santo — pausing between each name to
listen if the simple Indians, who had never spoken a Spanish
word before, pronounced it correctly, or any thing near the mark.
After they had repeated these names satisfactorily, their blind
tutor, after a pause, added, Santos — and recapitulated the names
of a great many saints, which finished the morning's tuition."
Tlio pay and inducement to the Indians to submit to what

TREATMENT OF THE NATIVES.

would doubtless appear even to them a farrago of nonsense, were
a daily allowance of Atole and Fozzoli, which were two kinds of
pottages, the first composed of barley flour and the second of the
same, varied by the addition of peas, beans and maize. The for-

Indians under instruction

mer was the usual breakftist and supper dish, the latter was
chiefly taken for dinner. Then huts, of which the Fathers kept
the keys, were provided for the nightly lodgings of the faithful ;
while a simple kind of clothing was furnished to them at intervals.
Soldiers took care meanwhile that order, decency and obedience
were strictly observed at work and play, at devotion and rest.
In return for these benefits, the Indians rose early, and attended
mass every morning, for an hour ; and during the day, in the
intervals between a second mass and meals and pretty constant
prayers, cultivated the gardens and fields of the missions, gath-
ered, preserved and arranged for sale the farm produce, herded
and attended to the wants of their cattle, built their houses, spun,

58 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

wove and cooked, aud in all respects drudged patiently, though
they do not appear to have taken tlie work very laboriously, as
the born slaves of the Fathers, whose absolute will was all tliat
they could comprehend or obey. With the instinct of a dog,
they fawned on and loved their owners, and perhaps would have
readily died to do them service. How different all this from the
free, intelligent and bold spirit of the present community ! To
shari)en the intellects of the converts, sticks, whips, long goads
aud the like were unhesitatingly employed by the beadles of the
churches, during mass and prayers, to silence the unruly and
make the refractory attentive and dutiful. Starvation and stripes
indeed attended the perverse Indian wherever he went ; and it
was his interest, — he could be made to understand that at all
events, — to comply with the wishes of his kind priestly persecu-
tors, as far as his animal nature would permit.

The conversion produced by such means could scarcely be
intellectual or very sincere. It seemed sufficient, however, that
the Indian duly attended mass (which he was obliged to do
under penalty of a sound, edifying whipping), knelt and mutter-
ed his incomprehensible Spanish words, made the sign of the
cross often and properly enough, and could correctly repeat to his
spiritual tutors, when called upon, the few cabalistic phrases
which they had taught him. Whether he understood the mean-
ing of these things was quite another question, as to which it was
not necessary for the Fathers to be impertinently curious. What
were these brown things, after all, but beasts — irrational beings,
who might have a soul truly to be saved, but whom it was absurd
to consider as having a mind ! Individually, the Fathers seem
to have been pious and philanthropic men ; but certainly humanity
and California owe them nothing. Every thing, even happiness,
is comparative ; and to the mind, undarkened by the gloomy
theology which considers the formal act of baptism without the
understanding soul to be sufficient for salvation, it must surely
be evident that the aboriginal savage, " lord of all he surveyed,"
was a more dignified and happy creature than the sleek, lazy,
stall-fed beast of burden into which the Fathers had entrapped,
or converted him.

In the churches, which were, of course, the leading and most

MEANS OF CONVERSION.

substantial buildings of the country, the walls were hung with
glaringly painted pictures — the more gaudy, the more valuable
and eflectual — of the saints, and especially of heaven and hell, to
astonish and fix the faith of the converts. La Perouse observes
that a horrible representation of hell in the church of San Carlos
has thus had a wonderful effect in promoting conversion ; while

tv^y^/v^i^ yi^c^.

Father Garzes and the Indians.

he considers that the picture of paradise in the same church, by
reason of its subdued coloring and treatment, had comparatively
little effect. In 1775, when Father Garzes was travelling, on a
crusading or proselyting expedition, from Sonora to California, he
carried with him a painted banner, on one side of which was
represented the Blessed Virgin Mary, and on the other the devil
in the flames of hell. On arriving at an Indian settlement, the
missionary took his first step of conversion. Just as the trav-
elhng mountebank blows his horn and flutters his flag on
approaching a village of likely gulls, so did our good Father

60 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO,

hoist his standard, and cry aloud ; when, as he naively observes,
the fascinated Indians, on seeing the Virgin, usually exclaimed,

good ! but when they observed the devil, they as often said, had !

Probably this was faith enough to entitle them to immediate
baptism, absolution and salvation. Food, lodging and raiment,
and freedom from the cares of family and the future, naturally

followed.

By such means the Fathers speedily converted the whole Indian
tribes within their reach ; while, year by year, as the missions,
and their servants and cattle increased in number, they took
possession of the most fertile and desirable lands in the country.
Much judgment and discretion were exhibited, as well in select-
ing the localities of the missions, as in subsequently managing
them for a time to the best possible advantage. The means
adopted for converting, training, and employing the natives,
were admirably devised, and were more successful and satisfactory
than could have been anticipated. The Fathers eagerly desired
to make Indian converts ; for every convert, besides becoming a
partaker of immortal glory, was a valuable slave ; but they
dreaded, and never invited the approach of free white settlers.

The first mission, San Diego, was founded in 1769 ; in 1776,
others had been established to the number of eight ; there were
eleven in 1790 ; and, in 1802, they had increased to eighteen.
In subsequent years, three more were added, viz., those of San
Francisco Solano, San Rafael and Santa Ines. In 1831, accord-
ing to the authority of Mr. Forbes in his excellent work, already
mentioned, on the " History of Lower and Upper California,"
the population of all classes for the whole latter country was
23,025 — the Indians constituting 18,683 of this number, and the
garrisons, missions and free settlements comprehending 4342.
That author supposes that as the population, for some years
afterwards, was nearly stationary, the same enumeration would
nearly hold good for 1835, when he wrote, although his state-
ments were not published till 1839. We extract a valuable table
from Mr. Forbes' volume, showing the localities peopled, with the
amounts of their population respectively : —

POPULATION OF THE COUNTKY.

NAMES OF THE JURISDICTIONS, MISSIONS AND
TOWNS.

Jurisdiction of San. Francisco.

Presidio of San Fbancisco

Town of San Jos^ de GujiJalupe. . .
Mission of San Francisco Solano

" of San Rafael

" of San Francisco.

" of Santa Clara

" of San Jose

" of Santa Cruz

Jurisdiction of Monterey.

Presidio of Monterey

Village of Branciforte

Mission of San Juan BiUitista

" of San Carlos

" of Na. Sa. de la Soledad. . .

" of San Antonio

" of Saa Miguel

" of San Luis Obispo

Jurisdiction of Santa Barhara

Presidio of Santa Barbara

Mission of La Purissima

" of Santa Ines

" of Santa Barbara

" of Buenaventura

" of San Fernando

Town of La Eeyua de los Angeles . . .

Jurisdiction of San, Diego.

Presidio of San Diego

Mission of San Gabriel

" of San Juan Capistrano

" of San Luis Key

" of San Diego

Totals...

PEOPLE OF ALL CLASSES AND AGES.

Men.

124
166
285
40fi
146
752
823
222

811

52
480
102
210
394
34it
211

167
151
142
374
883
249
552

295
574
4r,4
1138 J
750

10272

Women.

85
145
242
410

65
491
659

190

851

81
209
293
103

120
218
136
267
283
226
421

1911
520

7632

Boys.

89
103

88
105

68
100

110
27
85
34
23
51
46

162
47
82
51
66
177
213

683
162

2623

Girls.

78
110

90
106

60
145

97
17
71
21
20
17
61
7

164
84
96
70
59
181
202

621
143

2498

Total.

871
524

705
1027

237
1371
1727

366

708
130
987
236
334
671
748
329

613
450
456
762
791
838
1388

* 5686
1575

23025

From the pages also of Mr. Forbes, who seems to have made
minute researches on the subject, we extract the two following
tables, — the first of which shows the whole produce, in grain,
of the country, in 1831, calculated according to localities, and in
fanegas. The second table, calculated also by localities, gives the
total number of cattle, of all descriptions, in the same year. It
may be mentioned, however, that in addition to the number of
domestic cattle in the table, there were great numbers, particu-
larly mares, running wild ; and which were occasionally hunted

* " We are unable," says Mr. Forbe.^, " to give these latter details accu-
rately, the copy having accidentally caught fire when in the hands of the
printer."

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

and killed to prevent them eating the pasture of the tamer
species.

GRAIN.

NAMRS OF THE JURISDICTIONS. MISSIONS AND TOWNS.

C O

'^1

•a

III

go 5 —
«

1
1

■5

Jurlndktion of San Francisco.

283
]6r)7
1171

774

670
2400
4000

160

490
103
840
200
538
955
599
850

700
800
730
700
200
138

140
1400

450
1800
2946

1560

200

130

1000

300

332
160
170

115

300
100
400
90
200
250
1758

125

400

625

2000

420

40
191

15
9

25
123

131

80
40

40
9

90
20
20
50

160
40

179

5
13
30

200
80

241

388
340

1100
386

256

215

243

568

336

800

1200
1200

24
20
58
200
418
20

6
62
62
23
33

17
30
65

343

T<»\vn fit' Sinn .los*' tip (t11Mi1u1ui)6 ......■•• •

3408

\1 w^inn nt' S:iti Knillcist'O SoIiiliO. ..........

1660

" of Sail Kaf:iel

13-27

i* /\f' Siin Kr;iii('is('o ...••

10112

'* of Siiiitii ( 'lara

2685

6641

876

Jurisdiction of Monterey,

953

Villice of Braiici forte

343

1311

" of San ( 'arlos

477

" of Nil. Sa. de la Soledad

893

" of San Antonio

1701

" of Sun Miguel

734

" of San Luis Obispo

450

Jurisdiction of Santa Barbara.
Presidio of Santa Barbara

390

Mission of {..a I'urissinia

'■ of Santa Ines

893
1220

" of Santa Barbara

1236

" of Buenaventura

1860

'' of San Fernando

555

Town of La Kevna de los Angeles

2075

Jurisdiction of San Diego.
Presidio of San Dieg o

270

Mission of San Gabriel

1838

" of San .1 uan Capistrano

1110

" of San Luis Key

5215

" of San Diego

4646

Total fanegas

25144

10'J26

1644

7405

1083

46202

Taking the fanega at two and a half English bushels, the har-
vest in 1831 would be as follows : — Wheat, 7857^ quarters ;
maize, 3414^ quarters ; frijoles, 514 quarters ; barley, 2314
quarters ; beans, garvanzos and peas, 338 quarters ; total, 14,438
quarters. Reckoning the average price of grain in California at
the same period to be, wheat and barley two dollars the fanega,
or one pound five shillings the English quarter, and maize at one
and a half dollars, or one pound per quarter, the following will be
the value of the produce, viz. : wheat, $49,114 25, or £9,822 17s.
sterling ; maize, $21,340, or £4,268 ; barley, $11,570, or £2,314 ;

FARM PRODUCE AND DOMESTIC CATTLE.

peas and beans, reckoned as barley, $4,260, or £852 ; total,
$86,284 25, or £17,256 17s. The quantity of wheat produced
it will be perceived, is much greater than any of the other sorts
of grain, which is the reverse of what takes place in the Mexican
States, where the produce of wheat is small in proportion to
that of maize, the latter being the staple bread corn.

DOMESTIC CATTLE.

KAMES OF THE JTrEISDICTIONS, MISSIONS
AND TOWNS.

Black
CatUe.

Horws.

Mnles.

Asses.

Sheep.

6osU.

Swine.

Jurisdiction of San Francisco.

Presidio of Sax Francisco . . .
Town of Siin Jose de Guadalupe. .
Mission of San Francisco Solano.
" of San Rafael

5610

4443
2500
1200
4200
9000
12000
8500

5641
1000
7070
2050
65i>9
5000
3762
2000

7900
10500
7300
2600
4000
6000
3S624

608

20? 00

10900

26000

6220

470
2386

725

450
1239

780
1800

940

3310

1000

401

470

1070

1060

950

800

1300
1000
320
511
300
300
5208

625
1700

290
2100
1196

134

106

200

220
160
112
150
60
60
520

150
120
30
250
132

1
2

28
50

4
2
8

58
4
5
5

5000
2000
3000
7000
13000
5403

7017
4400
6358
10000
8999
1200

7000
2200
3300
3100
3000

13554

4800

25500

17624

55
15

87
SO

1200

325

50
17

" of San Francisco

" of -Santa ( 'lara

" of San Jos6

" of Sauta Cruz

Jurisdiction of Monterey.
Presidio of Monterey

Villacre of Brauciforte

Mission of Sau Juan Bautista

" of Siu Carlos

" of Na. Sa. de laSoledad..
" of San Antonio

" of San Mijruei

" of San Luis Obispo

Jurisdiction of Santa Barbara.

Presidio of Santa Barbara

Mission of La Purissima

" of Santa Ines

" of Santa Barbara

" of Buenaventura

" of San Fernando

Town of La Reyna de los Angeles

Jurisdiction of San Diego.

Presidio of San Diego

Mission of San Gabriel

250

" of San Juan Capistrano. .

" of San Luis Rev

" of San Diego...".

Total

216727

32201 1 2S44

177

153455 1873

839

The average prices of cattle, about the same period, were,
for a mule or saddle horse, ten dollars, or two pounds sterhng ;
a mare, cow or fat ox, five dollars, or one pound ; a sheep, two
dollars, or eight shillings.

In regard to the preceding tables, it may be remarked that,
in 1831, the missions had already lost much of their former
splendor and greatness. Ever since 1824, their progress had

54 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

been of a downward character. Most of them had so wilfully
mismanaged their estates, or so dissipated their means, or been
plundered of them by the Mexican authorities, that their wealth
in cattle, farm produce, &c., had dwindled down to less than one-
fourth, while the pecuniary affairs of many of their number
showed a still more ruinous appearance. We have given at length
the tables of Mr. Forbes, because he appears to have paid much
careful attention to the subject ; and we would now add some
statistics as to the riches of the missions, during the period of
their reputed greatest prosperity, extracted from the Rev. Walter
Colton's " Three Years in California" (New York, 1850), whose
statements, however, are somewhat more sweeping and less
detailed than those of Mr. Forbes.

The Mission of San Francisco Dolores, in 1825, is said to

have possessed 76,000 head of cattle, 950 tame horses, 2,000

breeding mares, 84 stud of choice breed, 820 mules, 79,000 sheep,

2,000 hogs, 456 yoke of working oxen, 18,000 bushels of wheat

and barley, $35,000 in merchandise, and $25,000 in specie : —

Santa Clara, in 1823, branded, as the increase of one year,

22,400 calves. It owned 74,280 head of full-grown cattle, 407

yoke of working oxen, 82,540 sheep, 1,890 trained horses, 4,235

mares, 725 mules, 1,000 hogs, and $120,000 in goods : — San

Jose, in 1825, had 3,000 Indians, 62,000 head of cattle, 840

tame horses, 1,500 mares, 420 mules, 310 yoke of oxen, and

62,000 sheep : — San Juan Bautista, in 1820, owned 43,870 head

of cattle, 1,360 tame horses, 4,870 mares, colts, and fillies. It

had also seven sheep farms, containing 69,530 sheep ; while the

Indians attached to the mission drove 321 yoke of working oxen.

Its storehouse contained $75,000 in goods, and $20,000 in

specie: — San Carlos, in 1825, branded 2,300 calves, and had

87,600 head of cattle, 1,800 horses and mares, 365 yoke of oxen,

nine sheep farms, with an average of about 600 sheep on each, a

large assortment of merchandise, and $40,000 in specie : — Santa

Cruz, so lately as 1830, had 42,800 head of cattle, 3,200 horses

and mares, 72,500 sheep, 200 mules, large herds of swine, and

$25,000 worth of silver plate : — Soledad, in 1826, owned about

36,000 head of cattle, and a greater number of horses and mares

than any other mission in the country. The increase of these

WEALTH OF THE MISSIONS.

animals was said to be so great, that they were given away to
preserve the pasturage for cattle and sheep. This mission had
about 70,000 sheep and 300 yoke of tame oxen : — San Antonio,
in 1822, owned 52,800 head of cattle, 1,800 tame horses, 3,000
mares, 500 yoke of working oxen, 600 mules, 48,000 sheep, and
1,000 swine : — San 3IigueI, in 1821, owned 91,000 head of cat-
tle. 1,100 tame horses, 3,000 mares, 2,000 mules, 170 yoke of

Mission of Santa Barbara.

working oxen, and 47,000 sheep : — San Luis Ohispo was reputed
to have been one of the richest of the missions. At one time, it
owned 87,000 head of grown cattle, 2,000 tame horses, 3,500
mares, 3,700 nmles, and eight sheep farms, averaging 9,000 shee]i
to each farm. When its presiding priest, Luis Martinez, returned
to Spain, he took with him $100,000 of mission property : —
La Purissima, so lately as 1830, had over 40,000 head of cattle,
300 yoke of working oxen, 2,600 tame horses, 4,000 mares.
30,000 sheep, and 5,000 swine : — Santa Liez, in 1820, possessed
property valued at $800,000 : — Santa Barbara, in 1828, had
40,000 head of cattle, 1,000 horses, 2,000 mares, 80 yoke of
oxen, 600 mules, and 20,000 sheep : — San Buenaventura, in
1825, owned 37,000 head of cattle, 600 riding horses, 1,300

GG ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

mares, 200 yoke of working oxen, 500 mules, 30,000 sheep, 200
goats, 2,000 swine, a thrifty orchard, two lich vineyards, $35,000
in ft)reign goods, $27,000 in specie, with church ornaments and
clothing valued at $61,000: — San Fernando, in 1826, owned
56,000 head of cattle, 1,500 horses ai ' mares, 200 mules, 400
yoke of working oxen, 64,000 sheep, and 2,000 swine. It had
also in its stores about $50,000 in merchandise, and $90,000 in
specie. Its vineyards yielded annually about 2,000 gallons of
brandy, and as many of wine : — San Gabriel, in 1829, had
70,000 head of cattle, 1,200 horses, 3,000 mares, 400 mules, 120
yoke of working oxen, and 54,000 sheep. It made annually from
four to six hundred barrels of wine, the sale of which produced
an income of upwards of $12,000 : — San Luis Bey, in 1826, had
70,000 head of cattle, 2,000 horses, 140 yoke of tame oxen, 300
mules, and 68,000 sheep : — San Juan Capistrano and San Diego
were reputed to be among the most opulent of the missions, and
their possessions were not inferior to those of the others named.

Let the reader contrast these statements with those of Mr.
Forbes, and consider what havoc must have been produced among
the missions in the short space of six or seven years. It was the
impending secularization, or, in other words, the confiscation of
their property, which seems to have produced this lamentable
state of afiairs, and made the Fathers quite careless in the man-
agement of their property. The large occasional grants, also, out
of which the laity either wheedled or bullied the Fathers, mightily
helped the disastrous result. The ravens had been long gather-
ing round the carcass of the still breathing creature. In its last
epasms, it recklessly threw aside all decorum, and thinking
nothing of the future only endeavored to share in and for the
moment enjoy its own spoils, along with the grasping and sacri-
legious Mexican officials and their Californian fiivorites. Soon
lauds and stocks were all swept from the reach of the Fathers, the
very Indian converts disappeared, and nothing was left but their
huge empty churches, stripped of most of their valuable and
gaudy ornaments, and fast crumbling into ruins. With the
general disappearance of the stock of domestic cattle, those lay-
men who had acquired grants to the different parts of the mission
possessions now turned their attention more to tillage.

CHAPTER V.

Pious Fund of California — General description of the Missions — Patriarchal kind of life of the
Fathers— Reflections on the subject— General description of the Presidios, Castillos, and their gar-
risons, and of the free Pueblos and Banchos.

The missions of Upper California were indebted for their begin-
ning and chief success to the subscriptions which, as in the
case of the missionary settlements of the lower province, were
largely bestowed by the pious to promote so grand a work as
turning a great country to the worship of the true God. Such
subscriptions continued for a long period, both in Old and New
Spain, and were regularly remitted to the City of Mexico, where
they were formed into what was called " TAe Pious Fund of Cali-
fornia." This fund was managed by the convent of San Fer-
nando and other trustees in Mexico, and the proceeds, together
with the annual salaries allowed by the Crown to the missionaries
were transmitted to California. Meanwhile, the Spanish Court
scarcely interfered with the temporal government of the country.
It was true that some of the ordinary civil offices and establish-
ments were kept up ; but this was only in name, and on too
small a scale to be of any practical importance. A commandante-
general was appointed by the Crown to command the garrisons
of the presidios, but as these were originally established solely to
protect the missions from the dreaded violence of hostile Indians,
and to lend them, when necessary, the carnal arm of offence, he
was not allowed to interfere in the temporal rule of the Fathers.
He resided at Monterey, and his annual salary was four thousand
dollars.

In every sense of the word, then, these monks were practically
the sovereign rulers of California — passing laws affecting not only
property, but even life and death — declaring peace and war

68 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

against their Indian neighbors— regulating, receiving, and spend-
ino- the finances at discretion — and, in addition, drawing large
annual subsidies not only from the pious among the faithful over
all Christendom, but even from the Spanish monarchy itself,
almost as a tribute to their being a superior state. This surely
was the ^olden age of the missions — a contented, peaceful, be-
lieving people, abundant wealth for all their wants, despotic will,
and no responsibility but to their own consciences and heaven !
Their horn was filled to overflowing ; but soon an invisible and
merciless hand seized it, and slowly and lingeringly, as if in ma-
licious sport, turned it over, and spilled the nectar of their life
upon the wastes of mankind, from whence it can never again be
collected. The golden age of another race has now dawned, and
with it the real prosperity of the country.

The missions were originally formed on the same general plan,
and they were planted at such distances from each other as to
allow abundant room for subsequent development. They were
either establislied on the sea-coast, or a few miles inland. Twenty
or thirty miles indeed seems all the distance the missionaries had
proceeded into the interior ; beyond which narrow belt the coun-
try was unexplored and unknown. Each mission had a consider-
able piece of the best land in the neighborhood set aside for its
agricultural and pastoral purposes, which was commonly about
fifteen miles square. But besides this selected territory, there
was generally much more vacant land lying between the bounda-
ries of the missions, and which, as the increase of their stocks
required more space for grazing, was gradually occupied by the
flocks and herds of the Fathers, nearest to whose mission lay the
previously unoccupied district. Over these bounds the Fathers
conducted all the operations of a gigantic farm. Their cattle
generally numbered from ten thousand to twenty thousand, and
their sheep were nearly as numerous — though some missions had
upwards of thrice these numbers — which fed over perhaps a hun-
dred thousand acres of fertile land.

Near the centre of such farms were placed the mission build-
ings. These consisted of the church — which was either built of
stone, if that material could be procured in the vicinity, or of
(w/otes, which are bricks dried in the sun, and was as substantial,

DESCRIPTION OF THE MISSIONS.

large, and richly decorated an erection as the means of the mission
would permit, or the skill and strength of their servants could
construct. In the interior, pictures and hangings decorated the

•^ ^'"'"''"'-^■"•l,'* vi^,'",^1w'

Mission of San Carlos.

walls ; while the altars were ornamented with marhle pillars of
various colors, and upon and near them stood various articles of
massy gold and silver plate. A profusion of gilding and tawdry
sparkling objects caught and pleased the eye of the simple con-
gregations. Around, or beside the church, and often in the form
of a square, were grouped the habitations of the Fathers and their
household servants, and the various granaries and workshoj^s of
the people ; while, at the distance of one or two hundred yards,
stood the huts of the Indians. The former buildings were con-
structed of adobes, and covered with brick tiles, frail and misera-
ble materials at the best. The huts of the Indians were occa-
sionally made of the same materials, but more commonly were
formed only of a few rough poles, stuck in the ground with the
points bending towards the centre like a cone, and were covered
with reeds and grass. An adobe wall of considerable height
sometimes inclosed the whole village. The direction of the
affaiis of the settlement was in the hands of one of the Fathers,

70 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

originally called a president, but afterwards a prefect ; and each
prelect was independent in his own mission, and practically
supreme in all its temporal, and nearly in all its spiritual mat-
ters, to any human authority.

Thus the Fathers might be considered to have lived something
in the style of the patriarchs of the days of Job and Abraham.
They indeed were generally ignorant and unlettered men, know-
ino- little more than the mechanical rites of their church, and
what else their manuals of devotion and the treasuries of the lives
of the saints taught them ; but they seem to have been person-
ally devout, self-denying, and beneficent in their own simple way.
They thought they did God service, and perhaps much more the
Indians themselves, in catching, taming, and converting them to
Christianity. That was their vocation in the world, and they
faithfully obeyed its calls of duty. If ever stern necessity, or
sometimes a forgetfulness of the value of life to the wild Indians
prompted them, or their military guards and executioners, to the
slaughter of a tribe, now and then, of the more fierce, thievish,
and untractable natives, they were scrupulously careful first of
all to baptize the doomed ; and, therefore, though the hapless
aborigines lost earthly life and the freedom of a savage state, their
souls were saved, and they entered into and enjoyed paradise for
ever. Towards the converts and actually domesticated servants,
they always showed such an affectionate kindness as a father
pays to the youngest and most helpless of his family. The herds
and flocks of the Fathers roamed undisturbed over numberless
hills and valleys. Their servants or slaves were true born chil-
dren of the house, who labored lightly and pleasantly, and had no
sense of freedom nor desire for change. A rude but bounteous
hospitality marked the master's reception of the solitary way-
farer, as he travelled from mission to mission, perhaps bearing
some scanty news from the outer world, all the more welcome
that the Fathers knew Uttle of the subject and could not be
affected by the events and dangers of distant societies. All
these things have now passed away. The churches have fiillen
into decay, deserted by the old worshippers, and poverty-stricken —
the adobe houses of the Fathers are in ruins — and there is scarcely
any trace left of the slightly erected huts of the Indians, who

PATRIARCHAL LIFE OF THE FATHERS. 71

themselves have deserted their old hearths and altars, and are
silently though rapidly disappearing from the land. But the
memory of the patriarchal times, for they were only as of yester-
day, still remains fresh in the minds of the early white settlers.

The quiet beauty and peacefulness of such a life make a de-
lii;htfiil subject of contemplation to the wearied spirits who labor
through the turmoils, anxieties, and vexations of the great world.
But the Indian neophytes had no such contrasts to show them
the inherent charm of their contented life. They grew and flour-
ished as the cabbage on the rich soil of their own land ; but they
also were as dull and earthly as the same cabbage. It may be
very true, the more knowledge, the more sorrow ; yet we cannot
avoid thinking that the more sources of intellectual enjoyment a
man has, the keener and more numerous also his moments of
pleasure. Even in many of the natural anxieties of civilized
society, there is a sense of power and heroic endurance which
softens the blow. The mere memory of past pains has almost
always something cheerful in it ; while the remembrance of intel-
lectual and refined enjoyments gilds the last and setting hour of
our existence. On the other hand, the hopes of the intelligent
being are infinitely more agreeable and ennobling than those of
the untutored, brutal savage. Therefore it may be concluded
that, apart from sickly sentimentalism and Rousseau-like theories,
the sooner the aborigines of California are altogether quietly
weeded away, the better for humanity. Yet the Fathers would
retain them : then sweep away the Fathers too.

Like the missions, the presidios were established on one general
plan. They were originally formed, as we have seen, to give
military protection and the aid of the carnal arm to the Fathers
in their conquest and civilization of the country, and in cap-
turing and taming the wild Indians. These presidios were four
in number, viz. : those of San Diego, Santa Barbara, Monterey,
and San Francisco. They were built in the form of a square of
about three hundred feet on each side, surrounded by a wall
twelve feet high, made of adobes, and most of them are now lit-
tle better than a confused heap of dried mud, rapidly crumbling
into dust. Within these bounds were included the commandante's
house, barracks for the troops, a church, store-houses, and various

72 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO,

other buildings. At some distance from the presidio was the
castiUo, or fort, which might be sufficient to overawe the simple
Indians, but was too defenceless a structure to prevent a superior
force of white men taking easy possession of it. A few guns of
small calibre were mounted on the ramparts, which, however,
seemed more for show than use, since they were never attended
to. Soon, therefore, from the ravages of time and the weather,
their carriages fell to pieces, and the guns themselves became
honey-combed by rust and rot.

The soldiers assigned to each presidio were cavahy, and seem
always to have been of the worst kind of troops. As soldiers,
they were of little account ; as men and settlers, absolutely
worthless. There were supposed to be two hundred and fifty
attached to each presidio, but their complement was never com-
plete, and generally they were ridiculously short of that number.
Undisciplined, wretchedly clothed, and irregularly paid, they
were indolent, riotous, and good for nothing but to hunt, and
shoot, or capture for new converts and servants, the wild Indians,
and to act as policemen over the converts already made. Yet
even in these capacities, they generally gave more trouble to the
meek Fathers to manage and keep in decent order, than the wild
or disobedient natives themselves. These were the soldiers of
California in the days of the Spanish monarchy, and they were
no better under the Mexican republic. They are represented to
have been commonly the refuse of the Mexican army, and were
generally either deserters, mutineers, or men guilty of military
offences, who were sent to California as to a place of penal ban-
ishment. To these presidios also the convicted felons of Mexico
were often transported. Such was a considerable portion of the
white population of California. We have already seen of what
nature the Indian inhabitants were.

Occasionally, the old soldiers of the presidios, upon their re-
tirement, after a certain number of years, from active service,
received grants of land from the Fathers, upon which they set-
tled, married, and left descendants. These formed the nuclei of
a few free towns (pueblos), which were not under the control of
the missions, but under the immediate government, first of the
Spanisli and afterwards of the Mexican authorities. As they

PRESIDIOS, CASTILLOS AND RANCHOS.

were established in the most fertile places of the country, they
began gradually to attract other white settlers to their neighbor-
hood, and soon exceeded in population and importance most of
the original mission villages themselves. These pueblos, however,
were only three in number, viz. : that of Nuestra Sehora de los
Angeles (the principal one, and indeed the chief town in Califor-
nia), and those of San Jose, near the mission of Santa Clara, and
Bnmciforfe, close to the mission of Santa Cruz.

Mission Rancho.

Besides the missions, presidios, castillos, and pueblos, it may
be remarked that there were certain public farms, called ranchos,
set apart for the use of the soldiers. They were generally four
or five leagues distant from the presidios, and were under the
control of the different commandantes Little use, however, seems
to have been made of these farms, and they commonly were left
in a state of nature, or afforded only grazing to the few cattle
and horses belonging to the presidios.

CHAPTER VL

Independence of Mexico in 1822, and gradual changes in the cbaracter and constitution of the Missions.

Manumission of the Indians in 1S26 ; but plan found unworkable, and return to the old state of

things. — Gradual disappearance of the Pious Fund. — Increasing riches of the Fathers. — Clianges
of 1833 and 1834 in the Missions, and attempts by the Mexican Congress to secularize their pro-
perty. — Santa Anna.— Attempted Centralization of the Me.xican Government. — Overthro'.v of the
old Federal Constitution in 1836.— Revolt and Declaration of Independence of the Californians.
— Continual sinking of the Fathers, and linal fall of the missions in 1S45. — Indian converts sent
adrift, and Mission property sold or rented. — Cost of the support of the Missions to the Spanish
and Mexican Governments.

The state of things described under the missions continued
without alteration until the overthrow of the Spanish power in
Mexico in 1822, and the establishment of a republican constitu-
tion in 1824. At that time, as population formed the basis of
the Federal States, New California was only admitted into the
Union as a territory, it not having the necessary population to
constitute a State. Under this chain*, ler, it had a representa-
tive in the Mexican Congress, who sat in the assembly and shared
in debates, but who was not entitled to vote on any question.
The republic was represented in the territory, as the Spanish
monarchy had previously been, by a commandante-general, who
was nominal governor of the country. However, the practical
legislative powers and virtual government remained in the hands
of the missons as before. The commandante-general indeed had
a kind of advising or privy council given him by law, called a
deputation, and which was chosen by the people ; but their func-
tions, although appearing to take the form of a local and free
government, were very limited, and their meetings accordingly
seldom took place.

In 1826, the federal government first began to tamper with
the ancient state of affiiirs. In that year, the Mexican authori-
ties proclaimed the manumission of the Indians, and sent in-

MANAGEMENT OF THE FATHERS. 75

structions to California that all those should be liberated " who
had good characters, and were supposed able to maintain them-
selves from having been taught the art of agriculture or some
trade," Certain portions of land were allotted to them, and the
whole country was divided into parishes, under the superintend-
ence of curates. The old salary of the missionaries (four hundred
dollars ^jer annum) out of the national exchequer was also sus-
pended, as the country was expected to maintain its own local
establishments.

This plan, however, was quickly found to be unworkable.
The simple Indians were quite incapable of standing alone, and
rapidly gambled away, or otherwise squandered the little pro-
perty assigned to them. Beggary or plunder was only left them
to subsist upon. Such a state of things soon restored the
Fathers to their former position. The most respectable white
settlers entreated them to receive the beastly Indians back into
the old fold ; and this, in the following year, the Fathers did.
But they first took occasion to make the circumstances the
ground of petition and complaint to Congress, who subsequently,
and in consequence of their remonstrances, ordered not only the
old salaries to be continued, but the arrears then due to be paid
in full. Thus the reign of the Fathers was prolonged for a
few years.

Meanwhile, the old Pious Fund of California was become
only a name. After the separation of the Mexican provinces
from Spain, the ancient subscribers got lukewarm in their pay-
ments, and new ones were not easily to be had. In the dis-
turbed state of the country, and. in the change of ideas arising
from political circumstances, there were more tempting channels
for the application of loose money than in riveting the chains
of Christianity on poor heathens, or securing the Fathers in their
comfortable domicils. But, to compensate for the loss of these
subscriptions, the real and personal estate of the missions was
rapidly rising in value. Traders had come on the coast, who
purchased the hides and tallow of their cattle, and the produce
of their fields. The Fathers were becoming excellent men of
business, and began to drive a thriving trade. They were now
independent, in the fullest sense of the word ; so much so, that,

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

whcri-as formerly they were indebted to foreign contributions and
royal or republican assistance to support their missions, they now
not only could manage to subsist without these aids, but were
enabled, and in truth obliged, to support the Mexican forces and
civil establishments in their territory at a vast annual expense.

Portrait of one of the Fathers — Antonio Peyri (ageil 67 years), Missionary at San Luis Key, from

1T99 to 1S32.

Up to this time, and so late as 1833, the Mexican govern-
ment had not sought, or rather was unable, to interfere materi-
ally with the management of the Fathers. In that year indeed
a body of eleven Franciscan friars was ordered by Congress to be
sent to the missions to strengthen their establishments. At this
time, General Don Jose Figueroa was appointed military gover-
nor, or commandante-general. Some time later, in the same year,
the democratic party being then in power, the Mexican Congress
passed a law for entirely removing the missionaries, and dividing
the lands among the Indians and settlers, and appropriating the

REVOLT OF THE CALIFORNIAXS, 77

funds of the Fathers in Mexico to state purposes. Commissioners
were appointed to see this act carried into effect, and free emi-
grants were engaged to proceed from Mexico to settle in the
country. This was the most serious blow the missions had ever
received, and would have been a deadly one, but for one of those
revolutions or party triumphs which so frequently occur in
Mexico. Santa Anna, who was opposed to the democratic party,
happened to come into power before the provisions of the act
could be carried into execution. lie immediately overturned all
that had been arranged on the subject, and forwarded, by ex-
press, counteracting instructions to California. When subse-
quently the emigrants from Mexico arrived in the country, Gene-
ral Figueroa received them so coldly, and gave them so little
encouragement, that soon the greater number of them returned
to Mexico. The missions therefore continued as before ; and so
ended this attempt on the part of the Mexican Government to
secularize the property of the Fathers, and augment the popula-
tion and resources of the country.

In 1835, the party at whose head was Santa Anna deter-
mined to remodel the Mexican republic, and centralize the gov-
ernment, thereby destroying, in a great measure, the federal con-
stitution of 1824. But no time was allowed him to make the
necessary changes and their exact nature therefore was never
known ; for, in the f<)llo\ving year, 1836, by one of the usual
coups d'etat, and while he himself had been defeated and taken
prisoner by the Texans, another party opposed to his general
views of policy came into power. This party, however, agreed
with the previous administi-ation on the necessity or propriety
of remodelling the federal system. The old constitution was
therefore abolished, and a new one adopted. By this change,
the separate states were deprived of many of their furmer pre-
rogatives, and nearly the whole rights and duties of government
were confined to the general Congress and executive. This
sweeping alteration of the federal constitution was opposed in
many parts of the republic, and in no quarter more vigorously
than in California. The people of Monterey rose en masse, and
at once declared themselves independent until the federal con-
stitution was re-adopted, and passed formal resolutions to that

78 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

effect. Their example was quickly followed by the inhabitants
of the other towns and villages. But while the people of the
southern parts of the country were inclined to adhere to Mexico,
upon certain conditions, those of the nothern districts were
determined hencef)rward, and for ever, to sever the connection
with the other States, and to stand alone, free and independent
of Mexican domination.

Mexico, meanwhile, was not exactly idle, for it answered the
Californian proclamations, addresses, and long inflammatory
speeches, by epistles and speeches of a similar nature on the
opposite side. California and Mexico — the local and general
governments — each party appealed to the patriotism of the
people in support of their cause. Seilor Don Mariano Guada-
lupe Vallejo, whose name will again occur in our pages, was ap-
pointed commandante-general on the part of the Californians, and
forthwith the whole train of congressional officials was forcibly
expelled from office and the government troops disbanded, and
before long transported to the Mexican territories. The Mexicans
threatened an expedition to chastise the rebels, and recall them
to repentance and duty ; while the Californians defied their
menaces, and resolved to abide the consequences of their first
steps to freedom. However, General Urrea, who had been
charged by the Mexican Government with the conduct of this
expedition, soon afterwards joined the federalist party, and wil-
fully delayed the execution of his orders. At the same time, as
the rebels were so far away, and the opposite factions in Mexico
had so many more pressing matters to settle among themselves
at home, somehow all about California appeared to be forgotten,
and it was left, for a time, to any constitution, or none at all,
and anarchy, just as its people pleased. About the end of July,
1837, the excitement among the Californians had subsided so
far, that they then quietly accepted the new Mexican constitu-
tion without a murmur, and voluntarily swore allegiance to it.

It is probably unnecessary to dwell upon the successive and
rapid changes of administration in Mexico, each of them differ-
ing widely from each other in their general views of home and
foreign policy. In one thing indeed they pretty cordially agreed,
and tliat was the destruction of the missions as a ruling body in

FALL OF THE MISSIONS. 79

California, and the secularization of their property for state and
other purposes. Accordingly, administration after adroinistra-
tion adopted the extreme democratic views on this matter, and
soon the Fathers were legally, if not equitably, stripped of their
possessions, and of all their former dignity and influence.

Foreseeing and dreading the results of the long threatened
proceedings, the Fathers lost courage, and neglected the missions.
If they themselves were not to enjoy their great estates nobody
else should. Their cattle, therefore, were recklessly slaughtered,
their fields and crops were neglected, and their property was
granted aw^ay or sold for trifling sums. Long before their final
fall, most of the missions had become but a wreck of what they
had been but a few years before. Perhaps the period of their
greatest prosperity was immediately previous to 1824. when the
Mexican constitution was declared. After that time they all
gradually fell into decay. In successive years from the date
mentioned, and particularly from 1834 downwards, specially
marking the disastrous years 1840 and 1845, various acts were
passed in the Mexican Congress, which completely denuded the
Fathers of both jiow^er and property.

This, however, was a work of considerable time, and occasion-
ally, as rival administrations, differing in this matter a slight shade
from each other, came into office, a gleam of their setting and
cloud-shrouded sun would appear to cheer the hearts of the
Fathers. But that sun finally sunk in 1845, never again to rise
in California. In the year named, a considerable number of the
missions were sold by public auction. The Indian converts at-
tached to certain others, and who now were wandering idle and
wretched over the country, were ordered to return to and culti-
vate the portions of land, which had been assigned them by
government. If that return and cultivation were delayed more
than a month, then these portions of land and the missions to
which they were attached would also be sold ; and this was
subsequently done. The remaining missions were to be rented.
The price and rents of all these missions were then divided into
three parts : one was bestowed upon the missionaries themselves,
and another upon the converted Indians, for their respective
maintenance, while the last was converted into a new Pious

80 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

Fund of California, for the support and extension of education
and gcnenil charitable purposes.

Before closing this account of the former state of the missions,
we may mention what was the cost of the country to the Mexi-
can Government, independent of the salaries allowed to the
Fathers, which, however, seldom seem to have been paid. Take
the year 1831 : — In that year, the expense of the presidial com-
panies, according to the estimates, was $91,000. To this must
be added the pay of the commandante-general and sub-inspector,
the expense of maintaining auxiliary troops and convicts, and
various other charges, $40,000. Together, these sums make
$131,000. But, as the net amount of the public revenue,
which was principally derived from exorbitant and often prohibi-
tory tariff duties, which necessarily encouraged smuggling, was
only $32,000, a short-coming of $109,000 was left to be pro-
vided by the general government. Other years showed an equally
unprofitable state of public affairs. However, as the general govern-
ment wanted the means, and perhaps the credit, elsewhere, they
borrowed the deficiency from their nominal subjects, the wealthy
Fathers ; and, accordingly, we find that the Mexican Congress,
in 1831, owed the missions the large sum of $450,000. This
circumstance, it might be thought, should have held back the
destroying hand ; but perhaps it only nerved it to greater and
more speedy destruction. The ungrateful are always the most
cruel.

CHAPTER VII.

California distinct in physical character and national feeling from the other Mexican provinces. —
Beginning and progress of immigration into the country. — The Russians at Bodega Bay. — Later
great increase of foreign white settlers ; Americans largely preponderating. — Outrage committed
upon the settlers by Mexican authorities. — Commodore Jones takes possession of Monterey. —
Foreign settlers scatter themselves over the whole country, and silently, but rapidly, revolu-
tionize or Americanize it — Origin of the war of 1846 between the Mexican and American States.

New California has always been a distinct country from the
rest of the Mexican provinces, having nothing in common but
that its few early white settlers were descended from the same
race. Locally it was separated by vast deserts from the peopled
parts of the same empire — in its constitution and government it
was swi generis — in its productions, climate and general character
of country there was no resemblance to any other portion of
Mexico. In the very feelings of the inhabitants there was little
sympathy with those of the Mexicans. Mexico never could
become a naval power : its mineral, pastoral and agricultural
wealth were very great, but it wanted the ports and the facilities
for procuring ship-buLlding timber and other marine stores which
Cahfomia has within a comparatively small space of territory.
California possesses an equable, mild and healthy climate —
excellent harbors — (one of which is equal, in capacity, safety,
and ease of entrance and departure to any other on the globe) —
a soil extremely fertile, capable of producing every kind of grain
and vegetables, except a few tropical varieties — and extensive
forests and other tracks of land which yield most kinds of marine
stores, such as timber, resin, &c. These things — if it only
had population, would necessarily, at all times, have rendered it
independent of Mexico, which is deficient in many of them.
Accordingly, the free white settlers early began to show that
they cared little about the Mexican Grovernment, and that,
6

S2 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

sooner or later, they were determined to be independent. This
consideration was always jiresent in the minds of the Mexican
people, and a secret jealousy of the consequences generally pre-
vented them from heartily encouraging the immigration into
California of new white settlers.

We have seen that so early as 1836, and when the gente de
razon did not exceed, if they amounted to five thousand, the
people of Monterey declared themselves independent of Mexico,
and that their examijle was followed by the other inhabitants of
the country. This desire for independence was soon much in-
creased by the continual inroad of immigrants which now began
to come from the United States of America, and from many of
the islands and ports of the Pacific.

In 1812, the Russians, without asking leave of the Spanish

authorities, had formed a small settlement at Bodega Bay,

between fifty and sixty miles to the north of San Francisco.

Some years afterwards, they established another small station,

called Ross, about thirty miles farther north than Bodega.

These settlements were founded chiefly in order to supply the

Russian-American Fur Company with agricultural supplies, but

also as fishing stations for procuring the skins of seals and otters,

which animals abounded on the coast and on the adjacent rocky

islands. The Russians, however, were very jealously eyed by

the Spanish and Mexican authorities, and were compelled to

maintain strong forts and a large number of military to protect

their settlers. In 1841, therefore, they judged it expedient to

relinquish their possessions. They accordingly disposed of their

stations and property to Captain John A. Sutter, an adventurous

Swiss gentleman, whose name is closely connected with the later

history of California, and will again occur in our pages. The

Russians then altogether retired from the country.

But previous to 1826 there were comparatively few other
foreign settlers in California than the Russians. When, however,
in that year, the Columbia and North American Fur Companies
had united their interests, several hundred trappers and fur
traders were always wandering about the borders of the country,
and occasionally even penetrated as far as San Francisco Bay
and Monterey. Their visits were in general coldly received by

OUTKAGE UPON FOREIGN SETTLERS. 83

the Californians ; and much suspicion of their ulterior views
being raised in the Mexican Government, laws were occasionally
passed by Congress for the removal of all foreigners from Cali-
fornia. Notwithstanding, the flow of immigration gradually
increased, and trappers, fur traders, whalers, and adventurers of
all nations, but particularly from the American States, began
to throng the harbors, and to settle down in the more fertile
parts of the country. Soon the majority of merchants in the
ports were of American, or else of English or French extraction ;
while many of the land squatters, and the shop and tavern-
keepers and artisans in towns were adventurous immigrants from
every country on earth. They had perhaps roamed over the wide
Pacific for years, and now, tired of their vagabond career, had
chosen California as a pleasant resting place, and a home for the
remainder of life. Eunaway seamen and stragglers from Colum-
bia and Missouri swelled the number of white settlers. The
indolent Spaniards stupidly looked on, while the prestige of their
name, their wealth and influence were quietly passing into other
and stronger hands.

Occasionally indeed they seemed to make a desperate strug-
gle against their fate ; but it was like the useless splash of the
unwieldy whale when the harpoon has struck his vital parts.
In 1840, a violent outrage was committed, under the instructions
of Don Juan B. Alvarado, then governor of the Californias, upon
many of the most respectable settlers of foreign extraction. In
April of that year, nearly one hundred individuals, American
and British subjects, of every rank and profession in life, were
seized, and carried to Monterey, where they were imprisoned,
some of them in irons, for a short time. No charge was made
against these people, yet they were treated as vilely as if they
had been condemned felons. A few were released, without
explanation, at Monterey, and the remainder carried as prisoners
to Santa Barbara. There a few more were released, again without
explanation, while the rest proceeded, still prisoners, to San Bias.
There several others were discharged, and left to find their
way back to Monterey, without money, passports or any assist-
ance whatever. Those who were still left were imprisoned for
an indefinite time at San Bias, or sent to other Mexican towns.

84 ' ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

A consideraLle number died from the severe treatment they
experienced ; while it was fifteen months before the last of them
was set at liberty. And still no reason was alleged for this
worse than Turkish or Russian despotism. Nor has it ever been
fairly known why such outrageous proceedings had been adopted
by the Mexican authorities, although it was suspected that they
considered the foreign settlers in California were engaged in some
revolutionary movement. This, however, was a most unlikely
thinij. The prisoners in conversation all denied, while the
Mexicans ridiculously failed, or perhaps never seriously attempted
to establish it. Probably a better reason might be found in the
fact that the Mexicans had got so fretfully jealous and alarmed
at the progress of foreign immigration, that they were determined
to disgust the present settlers with the country, and to frighten
all others from entering into it. Besides the people mentioned,
there were many other foreign settlers of large property who
were arrested, though Governor Alvarado thought it prudent not
to imprison them. No redress seems ever to have been obtained
from the Mexican Government for this daring attack on the
liberty of American subjects, and for all the losses, pecuniary
and otherwise, sustained by the victims of these violent, arbi-
trary and unlawful proceedings. At that period, there was no
regular United States ship-of-war stationed on the coast, nor
;iny consul appointed, to whom the injured could appeal, and
who, in his official capacity, could have enforced some compensa-
tion for such manifold wrongs. As it was, indeed, Mr. Thomas
0. Larkin, afterwards our respected consul at Monterey, in his
jirivate character as a merchant of the place and an American
subject, exerted himself strenuously to preserve the honor of the
United States flag and the lives and properties of his fellow
subjects ; but without eflFect. Several commanding officers of
United States ships in the Pacific hkewise interested themselves
in the matter, when they happened to approach the coast ; but
as they were but transient visitors, having no proper commission
eftcctually to interfere, the few steps they took led to no settle-
ment of the business.

In 1842, a premature attempt was made by an American
••fficer forcibly to take possession of the country. In that year,

COMMODORE JONES AT MONTEREY.

Commodore Jones, then in the Pacific, having fancied that the
Mexican and American States were at war on the Atlantic side
of the continent, sailed with liis frigate, the United States, and
the sloop-of-war Cyane, to Monterey, where he arrived on the
19th of October. He immediately took possession of the town
and hoisted the American flag, publishing proclamations over

Sutter's Fort, — New Helvetia.

the whole country, declaring it a portion of the United States.
After only twenty-four hours possession, the commodore received
intelli2;ence which altered his views of matters. He therefore
revoked all his recent orders, hauled down the " stripes and stars,'*"
and restored the place to its former owners, with as handsome
an apology as he could make for his extraordinary proceedings.

So early as 1837, several societies were formed in the Ameri-
can States to promote emigration to Oregon and California,
In the following years, and particularly in 1843, 1844, 1845 and
1846, many thousand emigrants journeyed across the Rocky and

86 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

8uo\vy ]\Iouiitains, enduring much suffering by the way, to
settle in California and the adjacent territory of Oregon. Other
large numbers proceeded thither through Mexico, across the
Isthmus, or by way of Cape Horn. The Valley of the Sacra-
mento, where Captain Sutter, already mentioned, possessed,
under a grant from the Mexican government, an extensive tract
uf country, called by him New Helvetia, was the general resort
of the larger number of those immigrants whose wishes were
directed towards an agricultural life. Many, however, distributed
themselves over other parts of the country, and those whose
views were turned more to trade and commerce flocked to the
towns on the coast, where they soon became the most influential
l)art of the community, and in some instances formed even the
numerical strength of the white population.

Meanwhile the Mexican Congress, alarmed at an immigra-
tion so steadily increasing and so powerful, fulminated proclama-
tion after proclamation against the intruders, and instructed the
governor of the province to take steps for their immediate expul-
sion. Such a measure, however, was now too bold an undertak-
ing for the whole Mexican power to execute. There the stubborn
settlers were, and would remain ; the squatter on his land, th(^
merchant in his office, the artisan, shopkeeper and trader at the
posts they had severally selected. Accordingly, the commandante-
general of California contented himself merely with publishing,
in ' their order, the impotent ordinances of Congress as they
leached himself, without daring or taking the least trouble to
enforce them. It was felt by all parties that a silent revolution
was rapidly going on, the effect of which was thoroughly to
Americanize the whole province. It was barely possible that
England might have delayed this movement somewhat, if she
had received, as was at one time seriously proposed by many
influential personages, .the territory of California from the Mexi-
can Congress, in lieu of the large public debt which her subjects
held against the insolvent republic. But even such a political
cession of the country to England would scarcely have stopped
the onward progress of American settlements, or removed the
profound feeling that California was destined, one day very soon
.low, to pass under the protection of the " star-spangled banner."

WAR BETWEEN MEXICO AND THE UNITED STATES. 87

The pear was ripening, and, if not plucked a little earlier by
impatient bands, would certainly soon fall at tbe feet of tbe
watcber. Matters were in this condition, when the war of 1846
broke out between tbe United States of America and the Mexi-
can States, which brought matters to a crisis, and finally settled
tbe destiny of California. The origin of tbe war was shortly
this : —

In 1835, Texas, hke California and many other provinces of
the Mexican republic, dissatisfied with the overthrow of the
federal constitution, revolted and* declared itself independent.
War was accordingly proclaimed by the general government, and
an army, under the command of Santa Anna, was forthwith sent
to the rebelHous province to compel obedience. But the Texans,
who were now chiefly of American descent, and who had no
sympathies with the Mexicans, having flown to arms, defeated
and captured Santa Anna himself, on the 21st April, 1836. In
the power of the enemy, and fearing the machinations of poHti-
cal foes in the capital, Santa Anna was glad to sign a treaty
with the Texans, in which he acknowledged the independence of
the province. Meanwhile, another party had come into power in
Mexico who refused to confinn the proceedings of Santa Anna,
and still claimed Texas as an integral part of the repubhc. Tbe
disordered state, however, of the general country prevented
active measures being taken to estabhsh this claim ; and Texas
governed itself, and was acknowledged as an independent power,
by several Em-opean and other nations.

In the interval, tbe Texans applied to the American Congress
for permission to be received into the Union. This, for various
reasons, was refused on the part of Congress ; and similar
applications made during the next eight or nine years were like-
wise decHned. At last, in 1845, the American Congress saw
reason to change its opinion, and on the 1st of March of that
year, passed resolutions sanctioning tbe annexation of Texas, upon
certain prehminary conditions, with which, as it happened, Texas
was ultimately found ready to comply. Five days after the pass-
ing of these resolutions, the Mexican ambassador, at Washington,
protested against them, and demanded bis passports. Generally
such a course is only adopted where there is good reason to sup-

gg ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

pose that war is shortly about to follow. In the present instance,
war was not immediately declared, nor did any hostilities take
place. However, the Mexican people were much embittered
against the American States when they reflected on the course of
these events, and every where a popular feeling was produced
inimical to America, and which insisted on immediate war.

To complicate matters, the Mexican Government had acknow-
ledged itself indebted to American subjects in a large sum, (some
millions of dollars), which it never could or would pay ; and the
mere consideration and fixing' the amount of which had occupied
some tedious years. This sum was the amount of damage
(assessed under the formal arbitration of mutual commissioners),
done to Americans, by reason of various seizures of and outrages
upon their ships and goods, which the Mexicans had made
iluring many previous years, partly, perhaps, through malicious
wantonness, and partly to replenish their impoverished exchequer.
Successive weak and poor governments among the Mexicans pre-
tended to acknowledge the justice of this debt, and faithfully
promised payment, though always at some future day ; until the
injured Americans got tired of remonstrating on the subject, and
indignantly clamored for warhke measures being adopted against
Mexico, to compel redress of their own and the national griev-
ances. Thus the popular mind in both countries was ripe for
war ; while both governments secretly began preparations to carry
it to extremities. The Mexicans made great levies and collected
numerous forces around their capital and on the Texan border.
On the other hand, the American Congress dispatched a consid-
erable fleet to the gulf of Mexico to be at hand when wanted, and
likewise ordered large forces to be assembled and to quarter them-
selves on the Rio Nueces in Texas. That river was held by the
Mexicans to be the south-westeru boundary of the province,
while the Texans themselves, and the United States taking up
their cause, claimed the Rio Grande, some one hundred and
thirty miles farther to the south-west, as the true and proper
limits of their territory. Thus the murderous train was laid
which a spark was to fire.

It is not our province further to develope the causes of the
war which ultimately broke out between the contending powers.

WAR BETWEEN MEXICO AND THE UNITED STATES. 89

Suffice it to say, that, in April, 1846, war was formally declared
between the two countries ; and that, after a brilliant series of
battles and victories upon the Tvio Grande, under Genera] Zachary
Taylor, and a still more triumphant progress, bloody but decisive,
from Vera Cruz to Mexico, under General Winfield Scott, the
modern Cortez, the Americans were enabled, in the capital itself,
to dictate their own terms of peace to the Mexicans — one of
which was the cession of Upper California by the latter. Previ-
ous to this time, however, American subjects had conquered and
held in possession the last named country itself ; and to a short
summary of their proceedings in that quarter we will now direct
the reader.

CHAPTER VIII.

CoL John C. Fremont— General Jos6 Castro.— Fremout declares war against California.— Capture of
Sonoma,— Proclamation of William B. Ide.— Letter of Pio Pico, Governor of tbe Californias, to
Thomas O. Larkin, Consul of the United States.— Thomas O. Larkin's reply to Pio Pico.— Cali-
fornia declared independent— California desired by the American Government — Col. Stevenson's
ro^ment — Movements of General Kearney. — Seizure of Monterey. — Proclamation of Com. Sloat-
Commander Montgomery takes possession of Yerba Buena and Fremont of San Juan.

Colonel John C. Fremont is generally considered the conqueror
of California ; where his exploits, undertaken with so small a force
and against such superior numbers, place him on a par with the
famous heroes of the days of chivalry. Yet to the bold, daring
and energetic measures adopted and prosecuted by Commodore
Robert F. Stockton, as we shall hereafter see, may justly be ascrib-
ed the final reduction of the country. Holding a commission in
the topographical corps of engineers, a great part of Fremont's
duties had hitherto consisted in exploring the districts of country
around the base of the Rocky Mountains, and the best lines of
communication from the Missouri to Ores^on and California. In
1845, Fremont was instructed by the War Department to ascer-
tain a shorter and more southerly and convenient route to the
Columbia River. In the execution of this duty, he reached Mon-
terey in California, in the month of January, 1846. Allusion
has already been made to the jealousy with which the successive
immigration of American settlers was viewed by the Cahfornians,
or rather the Mexican authorities. Accordingly, when Fremont
appeared with his small force near Monterey, General Jose Castro,
the commandant at that town, had his suspicions aroused as to
their ulterior intentions, and prepared to dispute their farther pro-
gi-ess. To aUay these suspicions, Fremont, leaving his little army,
hastened to Monterey and made such personal explanations to
Castro as seemed to satisfy the latter that he had no reason to
be alarmed at the appearance of the Americans. Castro having

COL. FREMONT AND GEN. CASTRO.

Coiiilit;! J. C. }■ iviniilic.

confessed himself satisfied ou the subject, Fremont retm-ned to his
people ; but, shortly afterwards being informed by the American
consul at Monterey that the Mexican general secretly intended to
attack him, he at once occupied a strong position in the neighbor-
hood, and displayed the American flag. Castro meanwhile having
thought better on the subject, especially after reconnoitering the
American position, determined to leave those foolish, obstinate
people alone.

Fremont, thus freed from molestation, proceeded on his pro-
posed route to Oregon. He had gone but a little way when he
found that hostUe Indians (supposed to have been urged on by

f)2 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

the Mexican authorities), baneil his forther progress ; and learned
with extreme surprise and indignation, that Castro intended to
attack the American settlers, and expel them from the country.
Upon ascertaining this foct, Fremont took the bold resolution of
declaring war against California, and of carrying it too into the
very camp of the enemy. His force, at this time consisted of
only sixty-two men. On the 15th of June, in pursuance of this
determination, he, or others acting under his advice, surprised
and took possession of the military post of Sonoma, part of the
spoils of which place were nine cannon and two hundred and fifty
stand of arms. Four days previously they had also cut off an
important convoy from Castro's camp. It is true that various
contradictory accounts have been given of Fremont's personal
connection with these events ; and it is difficult to ascertain the
real state of the facts. If he had no active share in them, which
is probably the true state of the case, it is certain that he formed
the resolution mentioned above, just when the noted " bear-flag"
party had actually surprised Sonoma, and that he immediately
cordially joined them.

After the capture of Sonoma, Mr. William B. Ide, a native
of one of the New England States, who had immigrated to Cali-
fornia the previous year, and a man of courage and intelligence,
was intrusted with the command of the small garrison. At the
same time he issued a proclamation explaining the views of the
American party, the reasons for their present act, and the prin-
ciple on which they proposed to conduct their future proceedings.
This proclamation is as follows : —

^^ A proclamation to all persons and citizens of the District of Sonoma, re-
questing them to remain at peace, and follow their rightful occupations
without fear of molestation.

" The Commander-in-chief of the troops assembled at the fortress of So-
noma, gives his inviolable pledge to all persons in California, not found under
arms, that they shall not be disturbed in their persons, their property, or social
relations, one with another, by men under his command.

" He also solemnly declares his object to be : first, to defend himself and
companions in arms, who were invited to this country by a promise of lands
on which to settle themselves and families ; who were also promised a Repub-
lican Government ; when having arrived in California they were denied the
privilege of buying or renting lands of their friends; who, instead of being

LETTER OF PIO PICO TO T. O. LARKIN. 93

allowed to participate in or being protected by a Republican Government, were
oppressed by a military despotism ; who were even threatened by proclama-
tion, by the chief officers of the aforesaid despotism, with extermination, if
they should not depart out of the country, leaving all their property, arms,
and beasts of burden ; and thus deprived of their means of flight or defence,
were to be driven through deserts inhabited by hostile Indians to certain
destruction.

" To overthrow a government which has seized upon the property of the
missions for its individual aggrandizement ; which has ruined and shamefully
oppressed the laboring people of California, by enormous exactions on
goods imported into the country, is the determined purpose of the brave men
who are associated under my command.

"I also solemnly declare my object, in the second place, to be to invite all
peaceable and good citizens of California, who are friendly to the maintenance
of good order and equal rights, and I do hereby invite them to repair to my
camp at Sonoma, without delay, to assist us in establishing and perpetuating
a Republican Government, which shall secure to all civil and religious hberty ;
which shall encourage virtue and literature ; which shall leave unshackled by
fetters, agriculture, commerce, and manufactures.

" I further declare, that I rely upon the rectitude of our intentions, the
favor of heaven, and the bravery of those who are bound and associated with
me, by the principles of self-preservation, by the love of truth, and the hatred
of tyranny, for my hopes of success.

'• I furthermore declare, that I believe that a government to be prosperous

and happy, must originate with the people, who are friendly to its existence ;

that the citizens are its guardians, the officers its servants, its glory its reward.

"William B. Ide.
'^ffead Quarters, Sonoma, June 18th, 1846."

These sudden, bold, and unexpected proceedings produced
much alarm and excitement among the Mexican authorities, as
we may learn from the following copy of the translation of a long
epistle — too interesting to be omitted, and now pubhshed for the
first time — addressed by his Excellency, Don Pio Pico, the gov-
ernor of California, to Thomas 0. Larkin, Esq., the United States
consul at Monterey : —

"The undersigned. Constitutional Governor of the Department of the Cal-
ifornias, has the deep mortification to make known to Mr. Thomas 0, Larkin,
Consul of the United States of North America, that he has been greatly sur-
prised in being notified by official communications of the General Com-
mandancia of this Department and the Prefecture of the Second District, that
a multitude of foreigners of the United States of America have invaded that
frontier, taken possession of the fortified town of Sonoma, treacherously
making prisoners of the military Commandante, Don Mariano G. Vallejo,

94 ANNALS OF SAN FEANCISCO.

Lieut. Colonel Victor Pruden. Captain Salvador Vallejo, and Mr. Jacob P.
Leese, and likewise have stolen the property of these individuals.

" The undersigned can do no less than make known to the Consul of the
United States, that acts so extraordinary and alarming have caused very great
PTicf.

'• Until the present the Departmental Governor is wanting the least positive
information that would give him to understand of a declaration of wai-
between Mexico and the United States, and without such information he
judges the course pursued at Sonoma the most atrocious and infamous that
can be imagined, so much so that the like is not seen among barbarians,

'' They have attacked the rights of the people, breaking the established
social compacts ; profaning the sacred soil of another nation ; indeed scan-
dalously usurping an integral part of the Mexican Republic, and what is more
provoking still, as an ignominious hbel, is the folly of the principal of this
multitude of foreigners, William B. Ide, the separation of the Mexican Union.
This act tends to excite the mind of the undersigned, and causes him to sus-
pect that the Government of the United States are concerned in this matter,
which certainly should increase his regrets.

!Mr. Thomas 0. Larkin will permit the undersigned to say to him frankly,
that he has witnessed with extraordinary coolness the invasion of the Depart-
ment, and that he has failed to note the general movement of all the inhabi-
tants, in defence of their country and liberty ; he has not been known to
make any arrangement that might make the invaders recede from their
abominable designs, and prevent the misfortunes which they can cause by
means of hostile provocation : misfortunes that the Departmental Govern-
ment will place to the responsibility of the chief authors before God and the
entire world. So base management as observed on this occasion highly com-
promises the honor of the United States, and if it shall have such a stain
upon itself, there is no doubt that it will be graven eternally in the remem-
brance of all nations, and will cause it to be despised.

" The undersigned believes that the Consul of the United States will agree
with him, that the acts committed by the party of foreigners, Americans,
have the appearance of actual and downright robbery; also that the Consul
will agree with him, that his indifference to prevent such fatal results, seeing
that they were subjects of his own nation who were violating this part of
the Mexican Republic, compromises more and more both nations.

" The undersigned in fulfilment of his duties sees himself obliged to recom-
mend to the Consul, Thomas 0. Larkin, that he make declarations of the
occurrence which has happened at Sonoma, to exact full satisfaction from him,
hoping that he will use all the means in his power to escape in time such
terrible consequences, and finally to protest solemnly, in the name of the
Departmental and Supreme Government of the Nation, that it is decidedly
opposed to all aggressions, defending to extremity its independence, liberty,
malienable rights ; repeating that the principal authors are responsible to the
Representative of the United States near this Department for those abuses
and results of corrupt designs from which they are not deterred.

LARKIN's reply to PIO PICO.

" The undersigned hopes, from the prudence and judgment of the Consul
of the United States at Monterey, that, admitting the justice that assists him
the answer to this letter (and imploring that it may soon come), may be in
accordance with (veneboles) desire.

" God and Liberty !

" Pio Pico.
Santa Barbara, 29th June, 1846."

Thomas O. Larkin, Esq.

To this indignant and piteous missive, Mr. Larkin returned
the following answer : —

" Consulate of the United States of America,
Monterey, Cal. July, 5th, 1846.

" To His Excellency, Don Pio Pico,

Governor of California.

"Sir : — The undersigned, Consul of the United States of America for
California, has the honor to acknowledge the reception of His Excellency's
Istter of the 29th of last month, which was received yesterday afternoon.

96 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO,

His Excellency may be well assured that the undersigned is duly sensible
of the preat inii)ortance of the subject brought before him, and is compelled
to say that he cannot alone enter into any mode for the expulsion of the
foreigners who have taken possession of Sonoma. He is bound not only to
protect his countrymen in California from any unjust oppression, and settle
in an amicable manner any disputes in which they may be concerned ; but
tirmly to refuse them support when they have been wilfully guilty of any
infractions of the laws of this Department, giving aid to the Authorities in
such cases, which aid has been refused by the Governor and Prefect.

The undersigned must assure His Excellency was wrongly informed when
told he made no exertions to aid the proper Authorities, and His Excellency
can learn that the undersigned has used the only means in his power as a
Consul, and that the Consular service had not been accepted.

His Excellency is pleased to say that the Americans engaged in this affair
are responsible to this Consulate. The undersigned must observe that he
knows not where this responsibility exists, and will not underrate the good
sense of his being in the idea that he believes Consular letters would have
effect on the persons in question, or that the Authorities would have given
him soldiers to bring into Monterey an equal number of Americans, when
General Castro, with three times their force, did not see proper to expel those
who took Sonoma.

The reasons brought forward by His Excellency as proofs that the Govern-
ment of the United States is concerned in this matter, not being sustained,
will, being by the undersigned proved to be erroneous, require no farther
assertion on his part to convince His Excellency on the subject.

The undersigned has the honor to renew to His Excellency the Governor
of California, assurance of his deepest respect and consideration.

Thomas 0. Larkin."

While these epistles were being interchanged, Fremont was
proceeding to the valley of the Sacramento, where the chief
settlements of the American population were, with the intention
of enhsting recruits for the farther prosecution of the war. A
garrison of only fourteen men had been left at Sonoma, which
was shortly afterwards increased to about forty. Scarcely had
Fremont departed, when General Castro prepared to attack the
feebly manned post. News of that general's movements speedily
followed Fremont, who instantly, with only a troop of ninety
riflemen, hurried, night and day, to the relief of the garrison.
He arrived just in time to frustrate the designs of Castro. To
follow up his original scheme, Fremont next called a meeting of
the Americans at Sonoma, on July 4th,1846 ; when, acting on his
advice, the assembly proclaimed the independence of the country,
:i[)pointed Fremont governor, and declared war against Mexico.

COLONEL Stevenson's regiment. 97

Meantime, nothing was known of the condition of affairs in
the United States, nor that actual hostihties had taken place
between them and Mexico. While this ignorance existed in
California, there was equal want of knowledge in the United
States respecting the proceedings on the opposite side of the
continent. Very comprehensive measures to conduct the war
on all sides had been formed by the American government.
Not only were American generals advancing on the Kio Grande
and on Mexico itself, by way of Vera Cruz and Jalapa, but an
expedition under General Stephen W. Kearny, was formed to
proceed across the whole continent, from the Missouri, first to
Santa Fe, and after the expected reduction of New Mexico, far-
ther west to California. This latter province had long been de-
sired by the Americans, and the government was now determined,
since circumstances rightfully permitted the attempt, to secure
the country. To further this undertaking, Congress ordered a
corps of mounted riflemen to be raised, the command of which
was given to Captain, then first created Lieutenant-Colonel,
Fremont, and who, from his knowledge of the country, and hi^
being there at the very time, seemed the most proper person on
whom the honor of the command could be bestowed,

A regiment of volunteers, a thousand strong, to serve during
the war in California, was likewise raised in New York, and
placed under the command of Colonel Jonathan D. Stevenson, to
whose energy and ability the formation and organization of the
corps was chiefly owing. This regiment, though it arrived in
California too late to take any part in the actual hostilities of
* the war, was subsequently of great service in - preserving the
peace of the subjugated country. Col. Stevenson reached San
Francisco March 7th, 1847, and immediately afterwards his
regiment was divided into com2)anies, which were severally sta-
tioned at Sonoma, San Francisco, Santa Barbara, and Monterey,
which last place, first was head-quarters, afterwards removed to
Los Angeles. . So desirous was the United States Government t^
preserve California at all hazards, that particular care had been
taken, in the raising of this regiment, that the men composing it
should be of good habits, and as far as practicable, of various

98 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

pursuits, antl sucli as would be likely to desire to remain in the
count ly at the end of the war.

While these measures were being carried out by Congress,
General Kearny, having left Fort Leavenworth, on the Missouri,
in June, 1846, was marching, at the head of sixteen hundred
men, across the deserts which lie between that place and Santa
Fe. After the capture of Santa Fe, and the proclamation of
New Mexico being now a ijortion of the American re})ublic, and
after making the necessary arrangements for strengthening his
power there, Kearny, at the close of September, 1846, proceeded
farther west to California, to carry out the instructions given
him by Congress. He had gone but eleven days' march from
Santa Fe, when he met an express from Commodore Stockton
and Colonel Fremont, bearing despatches to Congress announcing
the conquest of California. Kearny, then dismissing two hun-
dred of his dragoons, to assist in the reduction of New Mexico,
continued his progress westward, accompanied by a troop of only
one hundred men, and two howitzers. His course lay across the
wild and untrodden country east of the Gila, down which river
he next proceeded, until he approached the frontier of California.
Meanwhile, Americans there were completing what we have seen
they had begun, the reduction of that country.

At the time when Fremont was forcino; the Mexicans out of
California north of the Bay of San Francisco, Commodore Sloat,
who was then in command of the American squadron in the
Pacific, being apprised of the actual commencement of hostilities
between the American and Mexican states, had seized upon
Monterey. This was done on the 7th of July, when the Ameri-
can flag was hoisted, and the following proclamation read. It is
not our intention to give a detailed history of the war in Cali-
fornia ; but since this proclamation was the first formal announce-
ment of the intentions of the American Government, while the doc-
uments pre\dously quoted were very important in themselves, we
l^vo been induced to give them all at length, though they perhaps
swell this branch of our subject more than was at first contem-
plated.

"TO THE INHABITANTS OF CALIFORNIA.

' The central government of Mexico having commenced hostilities against
the United States of America, by invading its territory, and attacking the

PROCLAMATION OF COMMODORE SLOAT. 99

txoops of the United States stationed on the north side of the Rio Grande,
and with a force of seven thousand men under the command of General
Arista, which army was totally destroyed, and all their artillery, baggage, &c.,
captured on the 8th and 9th of ^lay last, by a force of two thousand and
three hundred men, under the command of General Taylor, and the City of
Matamoras taken and occupied by the forces of the United States, and the
two nations being actually at war by this transaction, I shall hoist the
standard of the United States at Monterey immediately, and shall carry it
throughout California.

" I declare to the inhabitants of California, that, although I come in arms
with a powerful force, I do not come among them as an enemy to California :
on the contrary, I come as their best friend, as henceforth California will be
a portion of the United States, and its peaceable inhabitants will enjoy the
same rights and principles they now enjoy, together with the privilege of
choosing their own magistrates, and other oflBcers for the administration of
justice among themselves, and the same protection will be extended to them
as to any other State in the Union. They will also enjoy a peilnanent govern-
ment, under which life, property and the constitutional right and lawful
security to worship the Creator in the way the most congenial to each other's
sense of duty, will be secured, which, unfortunately, the central government
of Mexico cannot afford them, destroyed as her resources are by internal fac-
tions and corrupt officers, who create constant revolutions to promote their
own interests and oppress the people. Under the flag of the United States,
California will be free from all such troubles and expenses ; consequently,
the country will rapidly advance and improve both in agriculture and com-
merce, as, of course, the revenue laws will be the same in California as in all
parts of the United States, afibrding them all manufactures and produce of
the United States, free of any duty, and all foreign goods at one quarter of
the duty they now pay. A great increase in the value of real estate and the
products of California may also be anticipated.

" With the great interest and kind feeling I know the government and
people of the United States possess towards the citizens of California, the
country cannot but improve more rapidly than any other on the continent of
America.

" Such of the inhabitants of California, whether native or foreigners, as may
not be disposed to accept the high privileges of citizenship, and to live
peaceably under the Government of the United States, will be allowed time to
dispose of their property and to remove out of the country, if they choose,
without any restriction ; or remain in it, observing strict neutrality.

" With full confidence in the honor and integrity of the inhabitants of the
country, I invite the judges, alcaldes, and other civil ofBcers to execute their
functions as heretofore, that the public tranquillity may not be disturbed ;
at least until the government of the territory can be more definitely arranged.

" All persons holding titles to real estate, or in quiet possession of land
under color of right, shall have those titles guaranteed to them.

" All churches and the property they contain in possession of the clergj-

100 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

of California, shall continue in the same rights and possessions they now

enjoy.

" All provisions and supplies of every kind furnished by the inhabitants
for the use of the United States ships and soldiers, will be paid for at fair
rates ; and no private property will be taken for public use without just com-
pensation at the moment.

"John D. Sloat,

" Commander-in-chief of the U. S. force in the Pacific Ocean.''^

A despatch was immediately forwarded by land to Com-
mander Montgomery, who lauded at Yerba Buena without oppo-
sition, took possession of the place, hoisted the American stand-
ard on the piibhc square, and posted the proclamation of his
commanding officer. Fremont, hearing of these proceedings,
took possession of the mission of San Juan.

CHAPTER IX.

Commodore Stockton takes charge of the American forces in California.— Hostility of the Californiana—
Proclamation of Com. Stockton. — Landing at San Pedro, and manceuvres of the sailor army.—
Castro's commissioners. — March on Los Angeles, and flight of General Castro. — Triumphant
entry into Los Angeles. — Provisional government formed. — The diflBculties of Stockton's march,
and the complete success of his plans. — Eeported hostility of the Walla-'Walla Indians. — Enthn-
Mastic reception of Stockton at San Francisco and other places. — Satisfaction of the people of
California with the new government — Stockton designs to cross Mexico and unite with the
forces of General Taylor.

Commodore Robert F. Stockton arrived at Monterey in the Fri-
gate Congress, on the 15th of July, 1846, and on the 23d of that
month assumed command of the squadron. Com. Sloat having
left on that day to return to the United States. The bold and
comprehensive mind of Stockton perceived at once the circum-
stances by which he was sm-rounded. He was deeply impressed
with the grave and important trust that devolved upon him.
But he was neither dismayed nor perplexed with the importance
of his position nor the difficulties he was compelled to confront.
With a decision of character, promptitude and sagacity worthy
of commendation, he adopted the plan of a campaign, which the
most complete success vindicated, and which, if judged by its
results, is unsurpassed in the most brilliant records of military
achievement.

For a correct appreciation of the motives which governed
Com. Stockton, as well as of the abihty with which his plans
were conceived and executed, we must briefly advert to the con-
dition of California at that time, and the circumstances that
influenced his course. The country was sjDarsely inhabited ; its
population chiefly clustering around isolated settlements at great
distances apart, or in the neighborhood of ranches, scattered with
wide intervals, over its vast surface. Large bodies of Indians
occupied much of the tenitory. To defend themselves from these

102 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

and the predatory incursions of more warlike tribes in the interior
of the continent, the Cahfornians were necessarily familiar with
arms. They were hardy and expert horsemen, and excelled in
all equestrian performances. Possessed of a fleet and admirable
race of horses, they had all the elements of the best cavalry
force, in which indeed consisted their chief military strength.
At this period the Cahfornians were greatly incensed against the
United States. They were ignorant of the declaration of war
with Mexico, and considered the demonstration of Freonont and
the immigrating parties reported to be approaching, as unpro-
voked aggressions. They were disposed to treat all Americans as
lawless adventurers or freebooters, whose designs were hostile to
the peace and authority of Mexico. The colonization of Califor-
nia by citizens of the United States for the purpose of ultimate
annexation (as in the case of Texas), they determined to defeat
by the most decisive measures. Accordingly, Andreas Pico issued
a proclamation intended to stimulate the most sanguinary treat-
ment of all Americans. The occupation of Monterey and some
other ports on the coast by Com, Sloat, was viewed by the Cali-
fornians as parts of the same aggressive scheme, indicated by the
elevation of the " Bear Flag " by Fremont, and the approaching
immigration. Com. Stockton, aware of these hostile feeUngs,
was painfully solicitous for the safety of the enterprising com-
panies of immigrants which he knew were crossing the Rocky
and Snowy Mountains. He concluded that unless a diversion
was produced of the Californian forces — unless they were kept
fully employed in their own defence, or absolutely dispersed, that
the fate of the immigrants would be inevitable. They would be
slaughtered in detail as they arrived, jaded, exhausted and en-
feebled by their long and arduous journey. Besides, it was quite
evident, that if left at Hberty to concentrate their troops, the
Cahfornians would overwhelm and repossess themselves of Mon-
terey and other ports, at which the flag of the United States had
already been elevated by Com. Sloat on the eve of his departure.
The Provincial Congress of California were in session at this
time, and under the influence of British agents, the most la\dsh
grants to them of vast tracts of territory were in progress of
consummation. There was reason to beheve, that in contempla-

PROCLAMATION OF COMMODORE STOCKTON, 103

tion of the ultimate cession of California to the United States,

the Provincial Congress intended to render the acquisition of the
territory as valueless as possible. Com, Stockton, aware of these
proceedings and designs, was determined to frustrate them. Ho
was well informed of the strength of the enemy, while, he was
aware, they were totally unacquainted with his available force.
He had really but three hundred and fifty men who could be
spared for active service on land, with which to oppose the Cali-
fornians, about fifteen hundred strong, and composed, for the
most part, of the finest cavalry in the world. But the commodore
knew that these people were not familiar with the enemy they
were to meet, and that to magnify the efficiency of his own
strength, it was only necessary to excite the fears of his adver-
sary. The boldest, most decided and adventurous measures, only,
could therefore be relied on for success. To disperse the military
organization of the enemy, crush all resistance, occupy the pro-
minent positions in the interior around which the population was
collected, and thus to acquire and hold possession of the country,
he foresaw would afford security to the aj)proaching immigration,
and baffle the cupidity of British agents and the crafty malevo-
lence of Mexican animosity ; while it would effectually facilitate,
at the close of the war, any negotiations for the cession of Cali-
fornia which our Government might institute. The quiet posses-
sion of the country, after its subjugation, would be likely to
render Mexico better disposed to relinquish the sovereignty which
her people were so incapable of defending. Thus informed, and
with these views. Com. Stockton, on the- 28th July, issued the
following proclamation : —

" On assuming the command of the forces of the United States, on the
coast of California, both by sea and land, I find myself in possession of the
ports of ISIonterey and San Francisco, with daily reports from the interior of
scenes of rapine, blood and murder. Three inoflfensive American residents of
the country, have within a few days been murdered in the most brutal man-
ner ; and there are no Californian oflBcers who will arrest and bring the mur-
derers to justice, although it is well known who they are and where they are,
I must therefore, and will, as soon as I can, adopt such measures as may seem
best calculated to bring these criminals to justice, and to bestow peace and
good order on the country.

In the first place, however, I am constrained by every principle of national

104 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

honor, as well as a due regard for the safety and best interests of the people
of California, to put an end, at once and by force, to the lawless depredations
daily commit tod by Cicneral Castro's men upon the persons and property of
peaceful and unollending inhabitants.

" I cannot therefore confine my operations to the quiet and undisturbed
possession of the defenceless ports of Monterey and San Francisco, whilst the
people elsewhere arc suffering from lawless violence ; but will immediately
march against tliese boasting and abusive chiefs, who have not only violated
every principle of national hospitality and good faith towards Captain Fremont
and his surveying party, (but who, unless driven out, will, with the aid of
the hostile Indians, keep this beautiful country in a constant state of revolution
and bloodshed,) as well as against all others who may be found in arms aiding
and abetting General Castro.

" The present general of the forces of California is an ursurper — has been
guilty of great offences — ^has impoverished and drained the country of almost
its last dollar, and has deserted his post now when most needed. He has
deluded and deceived the inhabitants of California, and they wish his expul-
sion from the country. He came into power by rebellion and force, and by
force he must be expelled. ]\Iexico appears to have been compelled, from time
to time, to abandon California to the mercies of any wicked man who could
muster one hundred men in arms. The distances from the Capital are so
great, that she cannot, even in times of great distress, send timely aid to
the inhabitants : and the lawless depredations upon their persons and property
go invariably unpunished. She cannot or will not punish or control the
chieftains who, one after the other, have defied her power and kept California
in a constant state of revolt and misery.

" The inhabitants are tired and disgusted with this constant succession of
military usurpers and this insecurity of life and property. They invoke my
protection. Therefore upon them I will not make war. I require, however,
all officers, civil and military, and all other persons to remain quiet at their
respective homes and stations, and to obey the orders they may receive from
me or by my authority, and if they do no injury or violence to my authority,
none will be done to them." "

In twenty-four hours after assuming the command, Commodore
Stockton organized a battalion of mounted riflemen, which had
previously been raised by Capt. Fremont, and Lieut. Gillespie of
the marine corps, and which consisted of about one hundred and
sixty men. These officers and their men volunteered to serve
under Stockton so long as he should require their services in Cali-
fornia. Fremont was appointed major, and Gillespie captain of
the battalion. On the evening of the 23d, it was embarked on
the sloop-of-war Cyane and despatched to San Diego, with orders
to co-operate with the commodore in his proposed movement on

STOCKTON AND THE COMMISSIONERS OF CASTRO. 105

Ciudad de los Angeles. On the 1st of August, Stockton sailed
in the Congress, and on the way to San Pedro, landed at Santa
Barbara, of which he took possession, and leaving a small detach-
ment for its defence, proceeded to his destination, where he arrived
on the 6th of August. Here he immediately learned, that the
enemy, headed by Generals Castro and Andreas Pico were strongly
posted near Los Angeles with a force estimated at fifteen hundred
strong. He was also informed that Major Fremont had safely
landed at San Diego, but found great difficulty in obtaining the
needful supply of horses. In the absence of Fremont's battalion,
Stockton was destitute of cavalry. Yet impressed with the im-
portance of celerity of movement, he determined not to delay on
that account striking a decisive blow as soon as possible. His
whole disposable force of sailors and marines was immediately
disembarked, a camp formed, and efforts made to discipline for
shore service his aquatic troops, to which novel duty they sub-
mitted with cheerfulness and alacrity. The anchorage at San
Pedro is insecure and unprotected, and it was apparent to aU that
when they left the coast there was no certainty of finding their
ships on their return. Rough weather would compel them to
put to sea, or seek a better harbor. Victory or death must, there-
fore, be the result of their enterprise. But confident in the
resources and gallantry of their leader, the hopelessness of retreat
only inspired the men with the prophetic certainty of success.
Six small guns, obtained from merchant vessels, constituted their
artillery. These were rudely mounted and dragged by hand.
The sailors were, of course, ignorant of the drill of soldiers, and
it was impracticable to subject them to the army discipline. Each
man was simply instructed to observe the movements of his right
hand comrade, and always to keep to his left. With this single
order they soon became expert in forming in line, square or column
as required. Though in forming they would appear in inextri-
cable confusion, yet in a few moments all was in order, and every
man in his proper place.

A few days after landing, a flag of truce was discovered ap-
proaching at a distance over the hills, borne by commissioners
from Castro. Acting upon his preconceived views of the enemy's
ignorance of his strength, Stockton at once determined to impress

lOG ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

Castro's messengers with most exaggerated ideas of the number
of his forces and their formidable equipment. His little army
was accordingly ordered to march directly on the line of vision of
the approaching commissioners, at intervals of twenty or thirty
paces apart, to a position where they were sheltered from obser-
vation. Thus seen at a distance, their numbers, judging from
the time occupied in defiling, would appear very considerable.
The commissioners, coming more as spies than negotiators, as was
subsequently ascertained, were completely deceived. On their
arrival, they were led up by order of the commodore, to the
mouth of a tremendous mortar, which, excepting its huge aperture,
was entirely enveloped in skins. Such an engine of war Stockton
knew had never before met their gaze, and could not fail to inspire
apprehensions of its unknown and terrific qualities. Thus posted
he received the emissaries in a stern and repulsive manner, and
in an imperious tone demanded the object of their visit. This
they delivered with so much confusion as to disclose the serious
impressions they felt. They were bearers of a letter from Castro,
proposing a truce, upon condition that all active operations should
cease, and each party hold its own possessions until a general
pacification. The commodore had fully considered the whole
matter, and believed that action, not negotiation, was his true
policy — that no terms would be kept by the enemy longer than
fear dictated — and that if time were allowed him to ascertain
the comparative strength of the opposing forces, the worst conse-
quences might be anticipated. He therefore contemptuously
rejected the proposition of Castro as insolent and insulting ; and
dismissed the couunissioners with instructions to assure their
master, that, unless he immediately broke up his command and
disbanded his troops, he would be most severely punished, and
that no other terms than an unconditional submission, should
shield him from the just vengeance of an incensed foe. The mes-
sengers hastened to place the mountains between them and the
commodore, and no doubt returned to Castro with an appalling
account of the numbers, strength and sanguinary spirit of the
great invading army, preparing for his utter destruction. The
subsequent conduct of Castro and his superior forces, shows well

FLIGHT OF GENERAL CASTRO. 107

the sagacity and wisdom with which Stockton had operated on
his imagination and fears.

Two days afterwards other messengers arrived from Castro,
bringing a bombastic letter, rejecting the terms of Stockton, and
concluding with the declaration, — " I will not withhold any
sacrifice to oppose your intentions : and if through misfortune
the flag of the United States waves in California, it will not be
by my acquiescence, nor by that of the last of my compatriots ! "
These commissioners were treated much the same as were their
predecessors — impressed with the formidable character of the
American force, and intimidated with the ferocity and implacable
purjiose of conquest which seemed to animate the invaders.

Having now comjjleted his arrangements, Stockton resolved
on pushing forward with expedition before the j^aucity of his
troops could be ascertained, and striking a blow wliile the appre-
hensions he had excited were still fresh and undiminished. He
dispatched a courier to Fremont with orders to join him on the
Plains of the Mesa, and on the 11th of August commenced his
march to meet Castro. The most constant vigilance was now
necessary to prevent surprise. The enemy's skirmishers were
almost daily in sight, and it was impossible to estimate their
numbers. The only provisions with which the commodore was
supplied were those afforded by the cattle, which were driven
along in hollow squares. The artillery was dragged over hill and
plain, and through rugged valleys, slowly and painfully, yet with
the utmost alacrity. A cheerful and courageous spirit animated
the little host, inspired by a leader in whom they felt the most
unbounded confidence. The distance between San Pedro and
Los Angeles was thirty miles, and was traversed in a single day
by Stockton and his little army. But before they could come
up, Castro, advised by his spies of their march, despite his pre-
vious gasconade and boastful threats, and no doubt mindful of
the terrible engine of destruction seen by his commissioners,
broke up his camp, disbanded his forces, and fled with all possi-
ble expedition to Sonora. Between seven hundred and a thou-
sand mounted troops strongly posted, with seven pieces of artil-
lery, dissolved and disappeared before the daring demonstration
of the American commander, at the head of only about three

108 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

hundred seamen and marines, as poorly equipped, and as motley
and as curious a specimen of military organization as ever before
took the field, to meet in an unknown country any civilized foe.
Colton, in lu's " Three years in California," says : " Gen. Castro
had taken up his position just outside the pueblo, on an elevation
which commands the town and adjacent country. He was well
supplied with field pieces, and had a force of seven hundred men.
Cum. Stockton landed at San Pedro with three hundred seamen
and marines from the Congress, and marched against him. His
route, which extended some thirty miles, lay through several
narrow passes, which Gen. Castro might easily have defended
against a much superior force. But the general kept in his
entrenched camp ; and informed the commodore by a courier,
* that if he marched upon the town he would find it the grave of
his men.' ' Then,' said the commodore, ' tell the general to have
the bells ready to toll in the morning at eight o'clock, as I shall
be there at that time.' He was there ; but Castro in the mean
time had broken up his camp, mounted with an armed band and
fled."

Stockton, who was subsequently joined by Fremont, took
possession of Los Angeles on the 13th of August. A number
of Mexicans of high rank surrendered themselves prisoners of
war, among whom were Don Jose Maria Flores and Don Andreas
Pico, who were permitted to go at large on their parole of honor
not to bear arms against the United States ; a clemency which
they abused afterwards by violating their parole. Commodore
Stockton now by proclamation declared California a Territory of
the United States ; and as all resistance had ceased, proceeded
to organize a civil and military government, appointing various
civil functionaries and establisliing provisional rules of adminis-
tration, himself retaining for the present the positions of com-
mander-in-chief and governor. The people were invited to
assemble on the 15th September to choose officers under the ex-
isting form of government. A tariff of duties on imports was
prescribed, and the inhabitants were encouraged to resume their
usual occupations. Thus, in less than one month from the time
when Stockton commenced his operations, Cahfornia was con-
quered, in the face of a superior hostile army ; that army van-

THE MARCH FROM SAN PEDRO TO LOS ANGELES. 109

quishedanci dispersed, and the government of the conquerors quietly-
imposed on the country. In establishing a local government for
California, Com. Stockton displayed the discretion, abilities, dis-
crimination, and judgment of the skilful statesman, as conspicu-
ously as he had exhibited on the field the prudence^ enterprise,
and valor of the soldier.

This march of Stockton upon the capital of California,
though it was accomplished without a battle, or the loss of a
single man, was nevertheless performed under circumstances of
great difficulty as well as danger. A less enterprising officei
would have contented himself with protecting those places on
the coast already occupied ; and a less pejietrating and compre-
hensive mind would not have appreciated the importance of sup-
pressing all demonstrations of hostility in every part of this ex-
tensive territory. The moral effect of Stockton's march on
Ciudad de los Angeles upon the minds of the Californians was
equivalent to a triumphant victory, and the effusion of streams
of blood. It broke down the spirit of resistance, destroyed all
confidence in the courage or capacity of the Californian generals,
and inspired the inhabitants with terror of an enemy who moved
with such celerity and boldness, wliile his humane conduct recon-
ciled the people to the change of government. The conception
of such an expedition, into the heart of an enemy's unknown
country, with a force composed principally of sailors, unaccus-
tomed to the fatigues and obstacles of a long march ; to en-
counter an opposing army of vastly superior numbers, upon their
own soil, in defence of their own country, well armed, the best
horsemen, and mounted on the finest horses in the world, re-
quired the most intrepid courage, indomitable energy, fertility of
resource, and self-reliance, such as we find only combined in
minds of the highest order, and characters cast in a heroic mould.
Yet despite all the difficulties with which he had to contend, in
the modest language of his despatch to the government, in less
than one month from the time he assumed command, he had
"chased the Mexican army more than three hundred miles
along the coast, pursued them into the interior of their own
country, — ^routed and dispersed them, and secured the territory
to the United States, — ended the war, restored peace and

IIQ ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

harmony among the people, and put a civil government into
successful ojieration."

AVhile these events were occurring, official intelligence was
received hy Stockton of war between Mexico and the United
States. On hearing which, he left fifty men to garrison Los
An'^-oles, and a still smaller force at Santa Barbara and San
Diego, and proceeded north to look after the condition of affairs
in that quarter. At Monterey he was informed that Sutter's
settlement was threatened by one thousand Walla- Walla
Indians. He at once sailed for San Francisco with the inten-
tion of making a demonstration against this new enemy. But
on his arrival there, he found that the reports of Indian aggres-
sions were unfounded ; and after an interview with some of the
Indian chiefs he ascertained their friendly disposition, and con-
firmed their amicable opinions by such assurance as secured their
subsequent neutrality.

Everywhere on his progress through the country, the com-
modore was greeted with an enthusiastic welcome, and hailed as
the conqueror and deliverer of the territory. At San Francisco,
the entire population of that place and the adjacent country
gave him a formal reception — men, women and children march-
ing in procession to low-water mark to meet him — and address-
ing him in terms of the most exalted praise and ardent devotion.
His triumphant advent was celebrated with a banquet and ball,
and the wildest demonstrations of joy and satisfaction. The indus-
trious, sober, and peacefully disposed part of the inhabitants
were glad to be relieved from the domination of the cruel and
plundering chiefs and governors, who alternately ravaged the
country, contended with each other, and oppressed the peoj^le.
They soon perceived the advantages of security to life and pro-
perty, which they never had enjoyed until the flag of the United
States was floating on their soil.

The disposition of the inhabitants of the northern part of
California in favor of the new government was particularly
manifested at this time, on the occasion of a rumor that a large
force was being collected in Sonora for the purpose of re-conquer-
ing the country. They exhibited the utmost repugnance to any
such event, offering the commodore all needed assistance in

Stockton's design to join general taylor. Ill

their power to contribute, and disiDlapng their fears ^vith the
earnestness of perfect sincerity. Having called on Stockton to
express their apprehensions, he assured them, in a characteristic
harangue, of his protection, and confirmed their confidence in
his determination to preser^^e his conquest : "You tell me," he
said, " that a thousand Sonorians are on their way to encounter
my men. Be not alarmed. Ten thousand Sonorians could not
excite our fears or arrest our progress. The sons of liberty are
on their way, and God alone can stay their march." They
returned with this assurance, satisfied that under such a leader
no reverse could happen which would endanger their present
security. In tliis state of flattering tranquillity and general
acquiescence with the new order of things, prevailing over the
greater part of California, but more particularly at the north,
Stockton was justified in believing, so far as appearances went,
that the conquest of California was comj)lete. The civil govern-
ment was in successful operation, and seemed fully adequate to
the exigencies of the country.

Such being the condition and aspect of affairs, the active
mind and patriotic impulses of Stockton induced him to seek
another field of useful service. He conceived the vast, magnifi-
cent and bold design of recruiting a force of volunteers in Cali-
fornia from among the American population then about settling
in the territory, sailing with them to Acapulco, and then striking
across the continent to unite with the forces of General Taylor,
then, as he supposed, approaching the City of Mexico.

The following is a copy of one of his confidential despatches
revealing his purpose : —

[" CONFIDENTIAL.]

" U. S. Frigate Congress^ Bay of Monterey^
September Idth, 1846.

" Deae Sir :— I have sent Major Fremont to the North to see how many
men he could recruit with a view to embark them for Mazatlan or Acapulco,
where, if possible, I intend to land and fight our way as far on to the City of
Mexico as I can.

" With tlus object in view, your orders of this date in relation to having
the squadron in such places as may enable me to get them together as soon as
possible, are given.

112 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

" You will on 3'our arrival on the coast get all the information you can in
reference to tliis matter.

'' I would that we might shake hands with General Taylor at the gates of

Mexico.

« Faithfully,

" Your obedient servant,

" R. F. Stockton, Commodore. &c.

" To Capt. "Wm. Mertine, U. S. Frigate Savannah^

Certainly a more daring, brilliant, and master-stroke of
military sagacity, has seldom ever been conceived. It reminds
us of the famous exploits of the most renowned heroes of
ancient and modern times. Instructions were given Col. Fre-
mont, who had previously been appointed military commandant
of California, to raise the necessary force to execute this bold
design. But while he was engaged in the performance of these
orders, intelligence from the south arrived which compelled the
abandonment of the proposed expedition, and concentrated all
the attention of Stockton upon the theatre of his recent success.

N- «V.rl< I A;,pin„i, * Co 346 i ^48. Broadwuy.

CHAPTER X.

Insurrection of the Californians. — Proclamation of General Flores. — Defeat and surrender of Talbot
and Gillespie.— Captain Mervine defeated, -with the crew of the Savannah. — Com. Stockton defeats
the Callfiirnians at San Diego. — Defeat of General Kearny at San Pasqual. — The official relations
of Com. Stockton and Gen. Kearny. — Movement against Los Angeles. — Battles of the Eio San
Gabriel, and the Plains <if the Mesa. — Fremont negotiates with General Flores and Andreas Pico.
— Fremont appointed Governor, and subsequently tried by Court Martial. — Arrival of Commodore
Shubrick, and the confirmation of General Kearny as Governor. — Mexican Governors of Califor-
nia. — Foreign Consuls in the Territory.

No sooner had Stockton left Los Angeles for the north, than the
Mexican chiefs, indignant and chafed with the knowledge of the
smallness of the force before which they had fled so ingloriously,
sought to retrieve their tarnished honor. Gen. Flores secretly
rallied the fragments of his scattered troops, and suddenly, on the
23d of September, invested Los Angeles with a force overwhelm-
ingly superior to that of the garrison. Capt. Gillespie, who was
in command, was obhged to capitulate on the 30th, and was al-
lowed to retire to Monterey. Lieut. Talbot, who had charge of
Santa Barbara, was also compelled to evacuate that place, but
without surrendering his anus. Intelligence of these successes,
greatly exaggerated, was soon spread over the whole country, and
almost the entire Mexican population of the southern portion of
California rose in arm^, to drive the invaders from their soil.
Flores, who was chiefly instrumental in fomenting the insuiTec-
rection, issued the following proclamation : —

" Mexican Army^ Section of Operations^
Angeles^ October \«t^ 1846.

" Fellow-Citizens : — It is a month and a half that, by lamentable fatal-
ity, fruit of the cowardice and inability of the first authorities of the depart-
ment, we behold ourselves subjugated and oppressed by an insignificant force
of adventurers of the United States of America, and placing us in a worse con-
dition than that of slaves.

" They are dictating to us despotic and arbitrary laws, and loading us with

114 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

contributions and onerous burdens, which have for an object the ruin of our
industry and agriculture, and to force us to abandon our property, to be pos-
sessed and divided among themselves.

" And shall we be capable to allow ourselves to be subjugated, and to
accept, by our silence, the weighty chains of slavery ? Shall we permit to be
lost the soil inherited from our fathers, which cost them so much blood and
60 many sacrifices ? Shall we make our families victims of the most barbarous
slavery? Shall we wait to see our wives violated — our innocent children
punished by the American whips — our property sacked — our temples profaned
— and, lastly, to drag through an existence full of insult and shame ? No ! a
thousand times no ! Countrymen, first death !

" Who of you does not feel his heart beat with violence ; who does not
feel his blood boil, to contemplate our situation ; and who will be the Mexican
who will not feel indignant, and who will not rise to take up arms to destroy
our oppressors ? We beheve there is not one so vile and cowardly, AVith
such a motive the majority of the inhabitants of the districts, justly indignant
against our tyrants, raise the cry of war, with arms in their hands, and of one
accord swear to sustain the following articles : —

*' 1st. We, the inhabitants of the department of California, as members of
the great Mexican nation, declare that it is, and has been, our wish to belong
to her alone, free and independent.

" 2d. Consequently the authorities intended and named by the invading
forces of the United States are held null and void.

" 3d. All the North Americans, being enemies of Mexico, we swear not to
lay down our arms till they are expelled from the Mexican territory.

" 4th. All Mexican citizens, from the age of fifteen to sixty, who do not
take up arms to forward the present plan, are declared traitors, and under pain
of death.

" 5th. Every Mexican or foreigner who may directly or indirectly aid the
enemies of Mexico will be punished in the same manner.

" 6th. The property of the North Americans in the department, who may
directly or indirectly have taken part with, or aided the enemies, shall be con-
fiscated and used for the expenses of the war ; and their persons shall be taken
to the interior of the republic.

" 7th. All those who may oppose the present plan will be punished with
arms.

" 8th. All the inhabitants of Santa Barbara, and the district of the north,
will be invited immediately to adhere to the present plan.

"Jose Ma. Flores.

" Camp in Angeles^ September 2Uh, 1846."

[Signed by more than 300 persons.]

This proclamation, thus numerously signed, indicated a spirit
of the most decisive hostility, and a consciousness of strength,
which, considering the small force of the American commander-

REVOLT OF THE CALIFORNIANS. 115

m-chief, was calculated to alarm him, with the insufficiency of
his means to cope with an enemy so superior in numbers. It
was now apparent that the work of conquest would have to be
repeated, and the most prompt and energetic measures were
adopted for that purpose. Stockton proceeded at once to San
Francisco, and despatched the frigate Savannah for San Pedro, to
reinforce the American garrison at that place. Fremont, then
at Sacramento, was ordered to San Francisco, with what force
could be collected, and about the 12th of October sailed, with
one hundred and sixty volunteers, for Santa Barbara, where he
was directed to procure horses, and subsequently to move simul-
taneously with Stockton upon the enemy at Los Angeles. The
Savannah did not arrive at San Pedro till after the defeat and
surrender of Talbot and Gillespie. Her crew, however, about
three hundred and twenty, though poorly armed, were landed,
and under Captain Mervine, attacked a large body of mounted
Californians about twelve miles from San Pedro. After a severe
engagement, they were repulsed, and retreated with the loss of
five killed and six wounded. Several subsequent skirmishes took
place, but with no material results.

As soon as Com. Stockton had completed his arrangements
for the security of the north, he proceeded in the frigate Congress
to the seat of war. Upon his arrival at San Pedro, about the
23d of October, he landed his crew in the face of the enemy, who
were in force to the number of eight hundred men. They
seemed, however, indisposed for an encounter, and retired into
the interior. And in order to give time to Fremont to mount
his men and co-operate in the contemplated campaign, as well as
on account of the greater security of the anchorage and protec-
tion from the storms which prevailed at this season on the coast,
and from the impossibility of procuring animals either for food or
transportation, (the enemy having driven them all into the inte-
rior,) Stockton re-embarked his men and sailed for San Diego.
In attempting to enter that harbor, the Congress grounded after
crossing the bar, and in such a way that it was necessary to sup-
port her with spars. While thus engaged, the Californians at-
tacked the town ; but in despite of the necessity of employing a
part of his force about the frigate, the commodore landed with

11 (J ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

the remainder, and after a short encounter, defeated the enemy.
The condition of San Diego was miserable in the extreme, and
neither horses nor cattle could be obtained in the neighborhood.
The enemy were in great force at San Bernardo, thirty miles dis-
tant, from whence detaclunents repeatedly visited San Diego, keep-
inn- up for many days their desultory attacks. A party of Americans
were despatched down the coast in. pursuit of cattle, a supply of
which they fortunately met and drove into camp.

Immediately after landing at San Diego, Stockton commenced
energetic preparations for a march on Los Angeles. His men
were daily disciplined according to the tactics adopted, and what-
ever time could be spared was -employed in building a fort, and
making saddles, shoes, and other equipments. Information was
received from Fremont that he could not procure horses at Santa
Barbara, and that he had gone to Monterey for that purpose.
Capt. Gibson had obtained a few horses, but they were poor and
worn down with severe marches, requiring rest before they could
be fit for service. Capt. Hensley, however, who had been sent
on an expedition to the south, after much arduous service, re-
turned with five hundred head of cattle and one hundred and
forty horses. While preparations were progressing for the march
on Los Angeles, a messenger arrived about the 3d of December,
with a letter from General Kearny, apprising Com. Stockton of
his approach, and expressing a desire to open a communication,
but without disclosing his actual situation. On the same even-
ing. Captain Gillespie was despatched with a force of thirty-five
men to meet Kearny. On the 6th of December, another messen-
ger arrived, bringing information of the defeat and perilous sit-
uation of General Kearny at San Pasqual. On his way from
New Mexico, with a considerable force, while a few days from
Santa Fe, Kearny met Carson, the courier sent by Com. Stock-
ton, with despatches to the Government, giving information of
the conquest of California, and the establishment there of a civil
government. Considering, therefore, the work of subjugation of
that territory completed, Kearny turned back the greater part of
his troops, and proceeded on his way toward California, taking
Carson as his guide. At, or near San Pasqual, he was intercept-
ed by the Californians, and defeated, with the loss of eighteen

OFFICIAL RELATIONS OF STOCKTON AND KEARNY. 117

men killed and as many wounded, and one of his two howitzers.
He took refuge on a rocky eminence, closely invested by the enemy.
All his ammunition and nearly all his provisions were exhausted.
Under cover of night he despatched couriers, who with much diffi-
culty eluded the vigilance of the foe and reached San Diego. On
learning these facts, Stockton was about to proceed in person with
all his force to the relief of Kearny ; but subsequent messengers
brought intelligence that the strength of the enemy was much less
than had been represented. He therefore despatched Lieut. Gray,
with two hundred and fifty men, upon whose approach toward
San Pasqual, the besiegers abandoned the field, and left the re-
lief party to return unmolested with Kearny and his dragoons.

As the official relations of Com. Stockton and Gen. Kearny
have been the subject of much discussion, it is proper we should
say in what light we consider them. Gen. Kearny was directed
by instructions from the Secretary of War to invade Cahfornia
with a prescribed force, and " should he conquer it," to establish
a civil government there. On his way, learning that the objects
of the expedition had been accomplished by Com. Stockton, as
above related, he turned back his troops, proceeded with a small
party, was attacked and defeated by the enemy, and relieved
from imminent danger by the detachment sent by Stockton.
Arrived at San Diego, he consented, according to the testimony
of all then present, to act under Stockton, then on the eve of a
movement against Los Angeles. The following lucid statement
of the reception of Kearny by Stockton, and of their relative po-
sitions in that movement, we extract from the official letter of
the commodore to the Secretary of the Navy, made subsequent
to the court martial which tried Col. Fremont, and dated Febru-
ary 18th, 1848 :—

" On their arrival, General Kearny, his oflBcers, and men, were received by
all the garrison in the kindest and most respectful manner. So far as my ob-
servation extended, no civility or attention was omitted. Having sent with
Captain Gillespie every horse that was fit for use to General Kearny, I was
without one for my own accommodation. I was therefore compelled on foot
to advance and receive the general, whom I conducted to my own quarters,
until others more agreeable to him could be prepared. The arrival of General
Kearny was to me a source of gratification : although it was my decided
opinion, which as yet I have seen no reason to change, that under the circum-

lis ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

stances that existed I was entitled to retain the position in which I was
placed, of commander-in-chief: yet in consideration of his high standing in the
army, liis long experience as a soldier, the importance of military science and
skill in the nwvcmcnts that were to be made in the interior of the country, I
immediutoly determined to yield all personal feelings of ambition, and tc
place in his hands the supreme authority. In accordance with this determi-
nation I tendered to General Kearny the position of commander-in-chief, and
offered to accompany him as his aid.

" This proposition was on more than one occasion renewed, and with all
sincerity and singleness of purpose. The responsibility of moving from San
Diego and leaving the safety of the ships deprived of so large and efficient a
portion of their crews, was of itself a momentous one. This, however, in the
discharge of duty I felt no inclination to shrink from. But the fate of the
territory itself might depend upon the issue of a battle to be fought on shore
against an army organized to encounter us. The nature of the service, and
the importance of the stake, it seemed to me appertained rather to a general in
the ai-my than a captain in the navy. Whatever ambition I might feel for
distinction, either on my own account, or on that of the gallant officers and men
under my command, was voluntarily and deliberately offered as a sacrifice to
a paramount sense of dutj'. The offers thus made were, however, on every
occasion positively and distinctly declined by General Kearny, who on his side
offered to accompany me in the capacity of my aid, and tendered to afford me
the aid of his head and hand. A few days before I expected to take up the
line of march, I addressed a note to the general, expressing a wish that he
would accompany me. In his reply, he repeated the language which he had
before employed — that he would so accompany me, and afford me the aid of
his head and hand. Accordingly, on the morning of our departure he appeared
upon the ground. After the troops had been paraded, and were nearly
ready to commence the march, as I was about to mount my horse. General
Kearny approached me, and inquired, who was to command the troops. I
replied. Lieutenant Rowan was to have command. On his expressing a wish
that he should himself command them, I replied that he should have the com-
mand. The difierent ofiBcers were at once convened, and informed that Gen-
eral Kearny had volunteered to command the troops, and that I had given
him the appointment, reserving my own position as commander-in-chief.
This arrangement having been made, we proceeded on the march."

Gen. Kearny himself, on examination before the court mar-
tial, testified on the fom-teenth day of the trial, in relation to the
expedition to Los Angeles, — " Under Commodore Stockton's di-
rections every arrangement for the expedition was made. I had
notliing whatever to do with it." CoL Fremont, in his defence,
^yS) — " I^oth Gen. Kearny and the officers mider him received
and obeyed the orders of Com. Stockton, in some instances in
opposition to those first given by Gen. Kearny, both on the

THE MOVEMENT ON LOS ANGELES. 119

march and in the battles." Lieutenants Gray, Minor and Emo-
ry testified to the same elFect, From this, and much other cor-
roborating evidence, it is historically true that whatever of re-
sponsibihty or credit belongs to the movement upon Los Angeles,
at this time, must be attributed to Com. Stockton. He origi-
nated the expedition, provided the means for its prosecution, con-
ducted it as commander-in-chief, and is fairly entitled to the
praise due for its success.

On the 23d of December, general orders were issued, as
follows : —

" General Orders. — The forces composed of Oapt. Tilghman's Company
of Artillery, a detachment of the 1st Eegiment of Dragoons, Companies A
and B of California Battalion of Mounted Riflemen, and a detachment of sail-
ors and marines from the frigates Congress and Savannah, and the ship Ports-
mouth, will take up the line of march for the Ciudad de los Angeles on
^fonday morning, the 28th inst., at 10 a. m.

" By order of the Commander-in-Chief,

/' J. Zeilan",
" Brevet Captain and Adjutant.

" San Diego, 23cZ December, 1846."

On the 29th the march commenced. The distance to be
travelled between San Diego and Los Angeles was one hundred
and forty-five miles, the track lying through deep sands and over
steep and rugged ascents. The entire force consisted of five hun-
dred and forty sailors and marines, and sixty of Kearny's dra-
goons, and six pieces of artillery. The men, for the most part,
were poorly clothed, their shoes generally being made by them-
selves of canvas. Stockton, in his despatch of February 5th,
1847, to the Secretary of the Navy, says, — " We came to San
Diego with the Congress alone — her resources being almost ex-
hausted in a previous campaign. The town was besieged by the
insurgents, and there were no stores or provisions of any kind in
it, and we were reduced to one fourth allowance of bread. We
had to build a fort — to mount our artillery, — to make saddles,
bridles, and harness : we had, in truth, to make an army, with
all its necessary appendages, out of the mechanics and sailors of
this ship, and to take our horses and beef cattle from the enemy."
Captain Turner, of the dragoons, declined using the horses, in

120 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

their feeble condition, preferring to proceed without them, and
those taken along for purposes of draught were so miserable that
they daily became disabled, which devolved much hard work on
the men, in dragging the guns and the carts heavily laden with
provisions and ammunition. " Their route," says a writer alrea-
dy quoted, "lay through a rugged country, drenched with the
winter rains, and bristling with the lances of the enemy.
Throuo-li this the commodore led his seamen and marines, shar-
ing himself, with the general at his side, all the hardships of the
common sailors. The stern engagements with the enemy derive
their heroic features from the contrast existing in the condition
of the two. Tlie Californians were well mounted, and whirled
their flying artillery to the most convenient positions. Our
troops were on foot, mired to the ankle, and with no resources
except in their own indomitable resolution and courage. Their
exploits may be cast in the shadow by the clouds which roll up
from the plains of Mexico, but they are realities here, which im-
press themselves with a force which reaches the very foundations
of social order."

The enemy were frequently seen during the march, and the
utmost vigilance was constantly necessary, to prevent a surprise.
The celebrated Kit Carson had been selected to command a
small corps of scouts, and to act as spies and skirmishers, which
duty was performed in a most efficient manner. On the 3d of
January, at San Luis del Rev, Stockton despatched a messenger
to apprise Fremont of his advance, and to caution him against
the hazard of an action until a junction of their forces had taken
place. This messenger, however, did not reach Fremont until
the 9th January. Lieut. Selden, of the navy, was also sent with
a small vessel to the maritime defile of Rincon, to protect that
pass through which Fremont was expected to march. While ad-
vancing, propositions were received from Flores to negotiate,
which were rejected in the most peremptory terms. The bearers
were informed that no communication would be held with Flores,
he having forfeited his honor as a soldier, by breaking his parole.
They were likewise assured that Flores and every Mexican who
had broken his parole, if caught, would immediately be shot.

On the evening of January 7th, the whole force of the enemy

BATTLE OF SAN GABRIEL. 121

being not far distant, the commodore despatched a confidential
emissary to ascertain, under cover of night, their exact position
and strength. They were formed between the invading army
and the Rio San Gabriel, apparently waiting to give battle, and
were estimated at from one thousand to twelve hundred men,
composed almost whoUy of cavalry. On the morning of the 8th,
Stockton ordered all the guns of his men to be fired and re-loaded,
and passing through their ranks, reminded them that it was the
anniversary of the battle of New Orleans. They were then
formed in a square, with the baggage and cattle in the centre.
On approaching the river, the enemy were observed prepared for
their reception, and strongly posted on the opposite heights. The
banks commanding the ford (which was occupied by the artillery
of the Californians), were about fifty yards from the river, quite
steep, and about fifty feet high. When within a quarter of a
mile of the ford, the men were formed in line, and orders given
that not a gun should be fired until the crossing was effected.
The enemy, however, kept up a perpetual and brisk fire, though
with little eftect. In the act of crossing, the water being about
four feet deep, word was sent by Kearny to the commander-in-
chief that the bed of the river consisted of quicksand and could
not be passed with the guns. Stockton instantly repaired to the
head of the column, seized the ropes, and ■with his own hands as-
sisted to drag over the artillery. The passage effected, the
troops were again formed for battle. The commodore took
charge of the artillery, and pointed his guns with such precision
that the enemy were soon compelled to abandon theirs ; when he
sent Lieut. Gray with orders to Kearny to charge up the bank
and seize them, while he prej)ared to receive a charge which was
about being made on his flank. Before Kearny could reach the
summit of the ascent, the Californians returning, withdrew their
guns, making but a feeble stand against the general. The great-
er part of their force, after making a circuit of some hundred
yards, descending to the level of the river, attacked Stockton on
his left flank ; but they were so warmly received that they re-
treated upon the hill, the commodore following, charging up the
declivity with his artilleiy, in the very face of the enemy. On
his reaching the heights, the latter were seen at a short distance,

122 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

drawn up in battle array, with their artillery in front. The
Americans were now ordered to lie down, while their leader ran
out his guns, and poured upon the adversary a well-directed fire,
he liimself aiming each piece as fast as it was loaded, with such
fatal eflfect, that the enemy were repeatedly driven from their
guns. Several ineffectual attempts were made by them to
charge ; but the steady front, cool courage, and well aimed rifles
of the assailants repelled their attacks. Dispersed in every di-
rection on the heights, a portion of their right wing wheeled upon
the rear of the American forces, and attacked Capt. Gillespie,
encumbered with liis baggage and cattle, who received them so
warmly that they fled across the river. Their main body retreat-
ed before the assailants, until reaching a ravine, they renewed a
brisk fire, when Stockton again took charge of the guns, and by
his well-directed shots, drove them from their position. They
then rapidly fled, carrying ofi" their killed and wounded, the
numbers of which could not be ascertained. The Americans lost
two killed and nine wounded.

On the 9th, Stockton j)ursued the retiring foe in the direction
of Los Angeles, and after a march of six miles came up with
them on the Plains of the Mesa. They were well posted, with a
ravine to the left of their line, which masked their artillery.
When about six hundred yards distant they opened a fire on the
advancing column. Preparations for a charge were visible in
their ranks, and they were observed to be joined by a strong rein-
forcement. Stockton formed his whole force in square, with the
baggage, horses and oxen in the centre, and gave imperative com-
mands to his men not to fire a shot until he gave the signal,
wliich he said would not be until he could see the eyes of the
enemy. The Californians made a gallant charge. It is said by
those who witnessed it, to have been a brilliant spectacle. Gayly
caparisoned, with banners flying, mounted on fleet and splendid
horses, they bounded on, spurring to the top of their speed, on
the small but compact square into which the American force was
compressed. The very earth appeared to tremble beneath their
thundering hoofs — and nothing seemed capable of resistmg such
cavalry. But inspired with the cool courage and dauntless hero-
ism of their leader, his men patiently awaited the result. The

FREMONT NEGOTIATES WITH FLORES AND PICO. 123

signal was at length given, and a deadly fire, directed according
to orders at the horses, was poured into the ranks of the advanc-
ing foe, which emptied many saddles and threw them into com-
plete confusion. Ketreating a few hundred yards, they again
formed, and despatching a part of their force to the rear, they
attacked simultaneously three sides of the square. Orders were
renewed to reserve fire until the enemy's near approach, and with
the same decisive results, — their ranks breaking up and retreat-
ing in disorder. A third time, having rallied, they returned to
the charge, but once more their ranks were thinned by the dead-
ly aim of the assailed ; and despairing of their ability to cope
with men so cool, unflinching and resolute, confused and discom-
fited, they scattered and fled in every direction.

On the 10th of Januarv, at the head of his advanced guard,
on the broadest and principal road leading into Los Angeles, the
Commodore, with banners waving, marched into the city. He
directed Captain Gillespie to raise the same flag which he was
compelled to strike on the previous September.

A few days after these events, Fremont, without knowledge
of Stockton's movements and success, encountered Gen. Floresand
Andreas Pico and their disheartened remnant of followers, who in
humble terms sued for peace. Not knowing that the commander-
in-chief had refused to treat with them, Fremont entered into
negotiations, and finally agreed upon articles by which they stip-
ulated to surrender their arms, including the gun captured at San
Pasqual from Gen. Kearny, and cease from all further resistance.
These articles it was thought desirable to apjjrove, as they were
considered a final pacification in the territory between the con-
tending parties, and as clemency on the part of the conqueror was
more likely to insure that result than the sanguinary exercise of
inexorable justice. .

The following general order must close our narrative of the
military operations of Com. Stockton in California, We have ex-
tended it far beyond the Kmits originally contemplated; but as
the history of these events is closely connected with the subse-
quent prosperity of the country, and the present condition of San
Francisco, we have thought best to give it in all its interesting
details.

124 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

■' Head-quarters, Ciudad de los Angeles,
January Wth, 1847.

"The Commander-in-Chief congratulates the officers and men of the
southern division of tlie United States forces in California on the brilliant
victones obtained b}^ them over the enemy on the 8th and 9th instants, and
on once more taking possession of Ciudad de los Angeles.

" lie takes the earliest moment to commend their gallantry and good con-
duct both in the battle fought on the 8th, on the banks of the Rio San Ga-
briel and on the 9th inst., on the Plains of the Mesa.

" The steady courage of the troops in forcing their passage across the Rio
San Gabriel, where officers and men were alike employed in dragging the
guns through the water, against the galling fire of the enemy, without ex-
changing a shot, and their gallant charge up the banks against the enemy's
cavalry, has perhaps never been surpassed ; and the cool determination with
which in the battle of the 9th they repulsed the charge of cavalry made by
the enemy at the same time on their front and rear, has extorted the admiration
of the enemy, and deserves the best thanks of their countrymen.

" R. F. Stockton,
" Governor and Commander-in-Chief of the
Territory of California.''^

Commodore Stockton, in pursuance of instructions which he
had communicated to the Government in September, now appoint-
ed Col. Fremont governor of the territory, and Wm. H. Russell,
secretar3\ It is painful to relate that unfortunate disputes arose
as to the right of Fremont to the high dignity of governor. Gen-
eral Kearny produced a commission appointing himself to the
office. His pretensions, however, were opposed both by Stockton
and Fremont, who contended that a new train of circumstances
had arisen since the produced commission had been granted. The
instructions to General Kearny from the war department, ("should
he conquer the country,") Com. Stockton considered as anticipated
by himself ; and of course the resulting action prescribed by those
instructions contingently, ("to form a civil government,") as de-
volving on himself, the real conqueror of the, territory. In these
views of Stockton, the Government entirely acquiesced, — so far as
respected the approval in mass of his whole conduct, — the secre-
tary of the navy specially thanking him for anticipating the wishes
of the Government. It is not a little singular, that although the
validity of Stockton's acts was thus sanctioned, yet Col. Fremont,
for obedience to his orders, was tried by court martial, and con-
victed of disobedience to the orders of Gen, Kearny, His sentence

KEARNY BECOMES GOVERNOR OF CALIFORNIA. 125

was suspension from the service; but the President, in considera-
tion of his many services and mitigating circumstances, was pleas-
ed to remit the punishment, and ordered him to be restored to
his former rank. But Fremont, being of opinion that lie had done
no wrong, refused to accept this clemency, and accordingly resign-
ed his commission, and retired from the American military service.
Whatever may have been the merits of this case, it is certain that
Fremont showed himself a true hero, in his eiforts to overthrow
the Mexican power in California, and is deserving of the gratitude
of American settlers in that territory. As an adventurous, per-
severing and talented explorer, who has laid open practicable and
easy paths to a great country that had long been closed against
the boldest pioneers, he deserves the approbation of the civilized
world.

In the mean time. General Kearny applied to Commodore
Shubrick (who arrived in California on the22d of January, 1847,
and as senior in commission, superseded Commodore Stockton in
command of the squadron,) to place him in the chief command.
But under the instructions to Com. Sloat of 12th July, 1846,
which devolved on the naval commander the conquest and civil
government of California, Shubrick did not consider himself au-
thorized to accede to his wishes. Soon after, however, other in-
structions, dated 9th November, 1846, having been received by
Com. Shubrick, Kearny was recognized as governor, and acted as
such until he relinquished the command to Colonel Mason, upon
his departure for Washington. These instructions Kearny did
not communicate to Fremont. Thus there were two acting gov-
ernors at the same time in California, and Fremont, without any
knowledge of his authority being annulled by the instructions of
the 9th November, subjected himself, in the performance of what
he considered his duties, to charges of disobedience to his superior
officer. He was ordered to surrender the howitzer lost by Kearny
at San Pasqual, at this time in possession of the California batta-
lion, to the Mormon regiment under Col. Cooke. This could not
have been done without the hazard of a revolt, and therefore was
declined by Fremont.

Before narrating the further steps adopted by the Americans,
when they had thus taken military possession of the country, we

126 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

may give a brief notice of the various governors and other public
officers who were connected with Cahfornia, subsequently to the
Mexican declaration of independence. The list is somewhat a
long one for so short a period ; and illustrates the feeble hold which
Mexico had upon the poUtical affections of so remote and neglect-
ed a province : —

Sola was the last Californian governor under the Spanish flag
and the first under the Mexican. In 1823 he was ordered to
Mexico, and Don Luis Antonio Argilello was named governor,
with all the powers of his predecessor, and remained so until the
arrival of Echeandia, in the beginning of 1825. Echeandia had
command until the arrival of Victoria, in 1830. Victoria con-
tinued in power until the winter of 1832, when the Californians
revolted, and sent him aw\ay. At that time Pio Pico was the
senior member of the territorial department, and by law became
governor pro tempore. Echeandia, meanwhile, had remained
among his friends at San Diego, probably expecting some speedy
change in political affairs ; and, when Victoria was about to leave,
he took the military command. Both he and Pico continued in
of&ce tiU. the arrival of Figueroa in 1833. Figueroa died in 1835 ;
and, during his last illness, delivered over the civil command to
Don Jose Castro, and the military to Don Nicolas Gutierrez,
Castro being at that time senior member of the department. These
remained in office until the arrival of Chico, in 1836. The same
year Chico was sent away by the Junta department. Previous
to his departure he left the military and civil command with Gu-
tierrez, he having been formerly his second.

On the 6th of November, 1836, the Californians, assisted by
foreigners under Captain Graham, an American, and Captain
Coppinger, an Eughshman, revolted against Gutierrez ; and the
latter was forced to leave the country, with all his officers, except
those who took part in favor of the natives, and wished to remain.
Don Blariano Guadalupe Vallejo played an important ro^e in this
revolution, and became commander of the forces ; while l^s nephew,
Don Juan Bautista Alvarado, was made civil governor. These
positions they held until the arrival of Miclieltorena, in 1842.
Early in 1845, Micheltorena was sent away by the Californians,
after forming a sort of treaty with them (he being desirous to pro-

CONSULS IN CALIFORNIA. 127

ceed to Mexico), leaving Jose Castro with the mihtary command.
Pio Pico, who was again the senior member of the Junta depart-
ment, then became governor. These two continued in power, as
mihtary and civU heads respectively, until the Americans took
possession of the countiy. iSola, Argiiello, Echeandria, Victoria,
Figueroa, Chico and Micheltorena, all had the united civil and
military authority.

In 1843, Mr. Thomas 0. Larkin was appointed the first, as
he happened to be the last American consul in California. That
gentleman also held various other official and imjDortant appoint-
ments from the United States Government up to the year 1848,
when peace was declared, and the country became American. In
1845, Mr. Larkin, who resided at Monterey, the nominal Mexican
capital of the province, named Mr. William A. Leidesdorff the
United States vice-consul, at the port of San Francisco. 3Ir.
James A. Forbes received the appointment of the first British con-
sul in 1844, or 1845. The first French consul^ Bon Luis Gasquet,
arrived in California, via Mexico, about the 10 th of May, 1845,
and left some time in 1847. He remained a considerable time in
the countiy after he delivered the consulate over to M. Movenhaut.

CHAPTER XI.

Peace concluded between the Mexican and American States.— Terms of the Treaty.— California ceded
to the United States.— The country ruled provi.sionally by American Governors.— Eapid increase
of population by immigration.— Discovery of gold on the American River by Mr. James "W. Mar-
ehall.- Great excitement in consequence of tlie discovery, and rush of people to the gold placets.
—Mixed character of the population.— Necessity for the establishment of a proper form of Gov-
ernment.— Independent sectional legislation inadequate and unsatisfactory.— Meetings held to
effect a general civil organization.— General Riley issues a proclamation for a meeting to be held
at Monterey to adopt a State Constitution.— Names of delegates appointed. — Meeting at Monte-
rey.— Constitution of California adopted, and rejoicings on the occasion.

The general war continued for about a year after the reduction
of California. At last, in the month of February, 1848, an ar-
mistice was entered into between the hostile parties, which en-
dured till a formal treaty of peace was concluded. This was rati-
fied by the Senate of the United States in March, and by the
Mexican Congress in May following of the year just named. By
this treaty a considerable territory was ceded by Mexico. The
boundary line between it and the United States was declared to
be the Rio Grande, up mid-channel of which it ran till about the
thirty-second parallel ; from whence, turning westward, along the
southern limit of New Mexico till it cut the Gila, down the mid-
dle of wliich river it proceeded till its junction with the Rio Colo-
rado ; from whence it ran westward till it reached the Pacific, at a
point about one league south of San Diego, nearly on latitude
thirty-two and a half Thus Texas, to its full extent. New Mex-
ico and Upper California were altogether contained within the
boundary line on the American side. The free navigation of the
Rio Colorado, from the mouth of the Gila to the Gidf of Califor-
nia, as well as of the gulf itself, were likewise secured to the Uni-
ted States. To compensate, in some measure, for the cession of
such a vast territory, the American Government agi-eed to pay to
Mexico the sum of $15,000,000 ; and, moreover, took upon itself
all liabiUty for the damages due by Mexico to American subjects,

RAPID INCREASE OF POPULATION. 129

which, as before stated, was one of the original causes of the war.
Each nation was to defray its own expenses in conducting hostil-
ities. There were several minor stipulations in the treaty ; but
with these we have nothing here to do. It is sufficient merely to
say, that California was now, wholly and legally, a portion of the
American Union ; and her people of Spanish or of other origin,
were henceforward American citizens.

Meanwhile the country was ruled, provisionally, by successive
American governors, until a constitution could be granted by
Congress, when it would be formally assumed as a Territory of the
Union. Events, however, were about to happen which superse-
ded the necessity of such a constitution, and hastened the devel-
opment of California into a State, Avithout passing through the
intermediate stage of a territory. Like the Minerva on its public-
seal, it started into life a full grown being, ripe in all its faculties
and powers, and at once fitted to contend with whoever and what-
ever should oppose its wonderful progress. This was owing to
the discovery of gold in the country and consequent rush of immi-
gration thither, with all its attendant effects.

But before this discovery took place, a vast immigration
from all sides had begun to flow towards California. The pre-
vious advantages which the country had offered to the intending
immigrant, were on a sudden immensely increased by the cir-
cumstance of its being now a portion of the American Union.
Accordingly, large bodies of people were beginning to flock to
the land ; and agriculture, trade and commerce were greatly
benefited by the accession of such numbers of active, intelligent
and industrious settlers. In 1845, it was estimated that the
white population had increased to about 8,000 ; while the do-
mesticated Indians, who but a dozen years before had numbered
nearly 30,000, now scarcely amounted to one-third of that
number. As for the wild or " gentile " Indians, it was impossi-
ble to form any reasonable conjecture as to their numbers. They
were, however, generally supposed, by different parties, to num-
ber from one to three hundred thousand. As they inhabited
districts hitherto scarcely visited by the white man, their pres-
ence and numbers were considered as of no account in the pro-
gress of the country. The years 1846 and 1847 brought a very
9

130 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

large accession to the white population. Colonel Stevenson's
re"-iinent of Now York volunteers alone gave a body of a thou-
sand liardy settlers, as nearly the whole number, officers as well
as men, remained in the country upon being disbanded, which
indeed had been anticipated. But beside these, great numbers
of Americans had journeyed from the Atlantic States across the
Rocky and Snowy Mountains, and settled in California. Nume-
rous com})anies of Mormons likewise either came direct from the
Eastern States, or from their settlements beside the Great Salt
Lake. A portion of these had formed the noted " Mormon Battal-
ion " of the war. At the same time, far more than the usual
proportion of stragglers, runaway seamen, and adventurers from
all nations continued to pour into the country, so soon as the
war and its first results were known. At the close of hostilities,
it was estimated that the white population, of all nations, num-
bered between 12,000 and 15,000, which was not merely annually
but daily increasing. Such was the beneficent influence and
magic power of the Ameiican flag ! People knew that they
were safe under its folds, and free to run the race of a prosperous
career.

But immeasurably exceeding all other causes in raising the
swelling tide of immigration was the discovery of gold. This
happened at Coloma, a valley and town situated between fifty
and sixty miles east of Sacramento City, in the month of Janu-
ary, 1848 ; curiously enough, just when the land was ceasing to
be Mexican. Many strange and improbable stories have been
told as to the alleged earliest discoveries ; but we believe that
the only reliable account is that given by Captain Sutter, upon
whose ground the precious metal was first found, and which we
shall therefore adopt, without noticing the various fabulous state-
ments alluded to.

It appears that Captain Sutter, during the winter of 1847-48,
was erecting a saw-mill for producing lumber, on the south fork
of the American River, a feeder of the Sacramento. Mr. James
W. Marshall contracted with Sutter for the building of this mill;
and, in the course of his operations, had occasion to admit the
river water into the tail-race, for the purpose of widening and
deepening it by the strength of the current. In doing this, a

DISCOVERY OF GOLD.

131

considerable quantity of mud, sand and gravel was carried along
with the stream, and deposited in a heap at the foot of the tail-
race. Marshall, when one day examining the state of his works,
noticed a few glittering particles lying near the edge of the heap.
His curiosity being aroused, he gathered some of the sparkling
objects ; and at once became satisfied of their nature and the

Sutlers Mill.

value of his discovery. All trembling with excitement, he hur-
ried to his employer, and told his story. Captain Sutter at first
thought it was a fiction, and the teller only a mad fool. Indeed,
he confesses, that he kept a sharp eye upon his loaded rifle, when
he, whom he was tempted to consider a maniac, was eagerly dis-
closing the miraculous tale. However, his doubts were all at
once dispelled when Marshall tossed on the table before him an
ounce or so of the shining dust. The two agreed to keep the
matter secret, and quietly share the golden harvest between them.
But, as they afterwards searched more narrowly together, and

132 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

ul.jated upon the rich deposits, their eager gestures and looks,
and muttered, broken words, happened to be closely watched by
a Mormon laborer employed about the neighborhood. He followed
their movements, and speedily became as wise as themselves.
As secrecy was of little importance to him, he forthwith divulged
the extraordinary intelligence, and in confirmation of the story,
exhibited some scales of gold which he had himself gathered.
Immediately, every body in the neighborhood left his regular
employment, and began to search for the precious metal. A
laro-e body of Mormon immigrants about this time was approach-
ing California by the south pass of the Eocky Mountains ; and,
on hearing news of the discovery, hastened at once to the spot.
Rumors of these circumstances speedily flew across the length
and breadth of the land, variously modified by the warmth or
coolness of fancy of the successive narrators, but all agreeing in
this, that gold was to be had in large quantities, for the mere
trouble of picking it up, at Sutter's Mill, on the south fork of the
Rio de los Amei'icanos. To that quarter, then, all the loose
population around instantly directed their steps. Soon the neigh-
borhood swarmed with diggers; and, within a few days after the
first discovery, upwards of twelve hundred people were busily at
work, with spades, shovels, knives, sticks, wooden bowls, cradles,
and all manner of implements, many of them of the rudest and
most primitive fashion, excavating, riddling and washing earth
for the precious particles it contained. Over all Cahfornia the
excitement was prodigious. Spaniard, American and foreigner
were all alike affected. The husband left his wife ; the father,
his family ; people tore themselves from the most pressing duties
at home ; men deserted their masters, and these followed their
servants — all hurried to Sutter's Mill. Some withstood the
temptation for a short time ; but, very soon, nearly the whole
male population of the country, unable to resist the evidence of
their senses when specimens of the newly found gold were exhi-
bited before their dilated eyes, became suddenly infected with the
maddened whirl of the " yellow fever," — the auri sacra fames,
and rushed ofi" at a tangent, helter-skelter, to gather riches, as
Aladdin had plucked fruits of priceless value in his fairy garden,
in tlic bowels of the earth, among the valleys of the Snowy

MIXED CHARACTER OF THE POPULATION. 133

Mountains. Towns were dispeopled, ships in harbor deserted, all
kinds of business sent to the dogs ; the whole settled parts of
the country were suddenly deprived of their inhabitants, or wo-
men and children alone formed the population, though even of
these many flocked to the placers and the diggings, to see and
be seen, to make money somehow, and as surely to spend it.

Meanwhile, other streams and other valleys were found to
contain the auriferous sands. Not only the whole strip of coun-
try west of the Sierra Nevada, which was drained by feeders of
the Sacramento, but that other strip, locally in connection with
the former, and lying to the south, which was watered by the
streams which fell into the San Joaquin, was ascertained also to
possess auriferous deposits in large quantities. In fact it was
believed that the gold regions could not be exhausted of their
treasures during countless generations. There was enough,
therefore, and to spare, for all comers, though their name should
be " legion." Individuals were daily making considerable for-
tunes, while all who chose to work steadily at the business, were
sure to earn much larger wages than they could do at any other
kind of labor in the country.

All this while, the few ships that were enabled to get away
from the coast, and travellers and expresses by land, were spread-
ing the news far and wide over remote seas and through foreign
climes. The circles of excitement grew wider and wider, and scarce-
ly lost strength as they spread farther distant. First, the Mexi-
cans from the nearest, and then those from the remotest provinces,
flocked to California. The indolent, yet adventurous, half-wild
population of Sonora poured in its many thousands from the
south ; while Oregon from the north sent its sturdy settlers in
almost equal numbers. The Sandwich Islands followed, with
their strange medley of white and colored races. Peru and
Chili then hurried an innumerable crowd, as fast as ships couLl be
obtained to carry them to the fields of gold. Before long, China
sent forward her thousands of thrifty wandering children, feeble,
indeed, both in body and mind, but persevering, and from their
union into laboring companies, capable of great feats. Australia
likewise contributed her proportion of clever rascals, and per-
haps as many clever adventurers who had not been convicted

134 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

felons. The United States, which at all times contain a vast
roving and excitable ])oi)ulation, next were afiected to their very
centres ; and armies — to use a moderate term, were on a sudden
organized instantly to proceed to California and share in the
golden spoil. The year 1848 was lost for the land passage ; but
by the early svnnmer of 1849, great and numerous caravans were
in full march, by various routes, across the Rocky Mountains.
Many hardshijjs were endured by these immigrants, and numbers
died on the road. But their unburied bodies and bleaching
skeletons were unheeded by the succeeding throng, or only pointed
out to the weary yet restless travellers the paths where others
had gone before, and which j)erhaps the new-comers should only
avoid. On — on ! to the land of gold ! There, fortune smiled on
all, while her worshippers revelled among riches. On — on !
Round Cape Horn fleets were bearing additional thousands ;
while through Mexico to all her eastern ports, and especially
across the Isthmus of Panama, still other thousands were hurry-
ing, by new ships on the Pacific, to the " Golden Gate." Later
in the year, and somewhat diminished in intensity, the excite-
ment produced in Europe similar results. Many of the young,
strong and adventurous, the idle, dissipated, reckless, sanguine
youths of Great Britain, France and Germany, broke through
the ties of home, friends and country, and perhaps of civilization
itself, and embarked for California, to seize fortune in a bound,
and with one eager clutch, or to perish in the attempt.

These astonishing circumstances soon gfithered into California
a mixed population of nearly a quarter of a million of the wildest,
bravest, most intelligent, yet most reckless and perhaps dangerous
beings ever before collected into one small district of country.
Gold, and the pleasures that gold could buy, had allured them
to the scene. They were flushed with hope and excitement.
Ciiiefly young men, they were naturally boisterous and riotous.
When their " blood was up " they would dare all things, heedless
of consequences. Rich or poor — fortunate, or the reverse in their
search for gold, they were almost equally dangerous members of
the comnmnity. If unsuccessful, they were moody and discon-
tented, fit and ready for any new and desperate enterprise : if
fortunate, the excesses of warm youthful constitutions, the

PROPER FORM OF GOVERNMENT NEEDED. 135

gaming table, women and drink, were certain to produce a pro-
lific crop of vice, crime and all social disorders. Without family
ties, without the restraining and softening charms of home and
modest female society, the strange mixed population of California
at this time was like the dormant volcano, which at some unex-
pected moment may break forth and devastate all within its in-
fluence. Or it may be compared to the swelling flood of a mighty
river which threatens every instant to overleap or burst its banks,
and overwhelm the great country through which it rolls, and
which, when the stream is confined within proper limits, it only
fertihzes and enriches. The good sense of the community, and
the speedy establishment of a legal constitution could alone save
California from the threatened manifold evils of its heterogeneous
population, and direct its immense and wavering energies into
the best and most profitable channels for their reception.

Tlie cooler and more intelligent settlers in California early
foresaw the urgent necessity of a regular constitution being adopt-
ed. The provisional government subsisting since the conquest of
1847 was but a make-shift at the best ; fit perhaps to regulate
the concerns of such a hmited community as then inhabited
Calif(jrnia, but by no means able to satisfy the wants of the great,
growing and dangerous population which now so strangely and
suddenly had arisen. Probably, Congress, at a distance, was not
sufliciently alive to the pressing need of adequate measures being
instantly taken to remedy the alarming state of things described,
by means of a formal territorial government. At any rate, the
most honest, intelligent and influential inhabitants of California
believed that they could wait no longer the slow movements of
Congress, and conceived that their own social safety would be
best consulted by at once improvising governments of their own.
Accordingly, attempts were soon severally made, by the people of
San Francisco, Sonoma and Sacramento, to form legislatures for
themselves, which they invested with supreme authority. Other
portions of the countiy prepared to follow the example of the
places named. It was quickly found, however, that these indepen-
dent legislatures threatened occasionally to come into colhsion
with each other, while the existence in a limited country of so
many difierent supreme courts, each governed by its own maxims

136 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

and principles of procedure, betrayed an anomalous state of things
too uncertain and unsatisfactory to be longer patiently borne. A
general feelin"- therefore became evident that the sooner such partial
legishition was put a stop to the better for the country ; and that
nothing less than a general constitution and complete civil gov-
ernment would be held satisfactory by the people.

Great meetings for these purposes were held at San Jose, San
Francisco, Monterey, Sonoma, and other places, in the months of
December and January, 1848-49. It was there resolved that such
a civil organization was expedient, and that delegates should be
chosen by popular election, from each district of the country, who
should afterwards assemble at San Jose, though the place of
'meeting was subsequently changed to Monterey. The period of
meeting was first fixed for the 8th of January, then extended to
the 5th of March, next to the 1st of May, and finally, in order
to give ample time to every district to make the necessary arrange-
ments, to the first Monday in August. The delegates to meet at
this convention were to frame the constitution desired. The
resolutions adopted at these primary meetings were forwarded
to and exchanged between the principal districts and towns of
the country for their consideration and approval ; by which places
they were unanimously approved of. These initiatory movements
were not dictated by political faction ; but were the true and
honest result of popular feeling on the subject. There were no
partisans in the matter, where there was only one great party, and
that included the whole thinking population.

While the people of California were thus working out for them-
selves the great problem of a State constitution, the military
governor. General Riley, thought fit to interfere. On the 3d of
June, 1849, he issued a proclamation, in which was fairly enough
stated the anomalous and unsatisfactorj'^ position of the country,
both in its local and general governments ; and he thereupon
ordained the inhabitants in certain specified districts to return
delegates to a convention, which would meet at Monterey on the
Ist of September, to frame a State Constitution, and which
should afterwards be submitted to the people for their approval.
In the same proclamation he likewise made provision for the
election of certain district officials to complete the temporary

DELEGATES TO ADOPT A CONSTITUTION.

137

local organization. The people in many parts of the country con-
sidered the interference of the military authority to be unnecessary
as it was uncalled for. As, however, matters could not be im-
proved, the different districts were content to adopt the provisions
of General Riley's proclamation, and chose their delegates accord-
ingly.

These delegates were forty-eight in number, and while they
nominally re j) resented only different parts of California, they
might have been taken as a fair representation of every State in
the Union. They likewise included natives of various European
countries. They were chiefly men of comparatively youthful years,
many of them not much accustomed, at least of late, to the study
of those abstract questions which might have been anticipated
in devising the constitution of a State. But they were all fully
impressed with the importance of their trust, and determined to
do their duty in the best manner possible. Among the number
were individuals of high talents, whose wisdom, despatch and
aptitude for legislation were eminently displayed. As these del-
egates cannot be too well known, we give the following list of
their names, and the districts they represented : —

San Diego.

Miguel de Pedrorena,
Heury Hill.

Zios Angeles.

Stephen C. Foster,
Jose Antonio Carillo,
Hugo Reid,
Mauuel Domiaguez,
Abel Stearns.

Santa Barbara.

Pablo de la Guerra,
Jacinto Rodriguez.

San Luis Obispo.

Henr_v A Tefft,
Jose M. CovaiTubias.

Monterey.

Henry W. Hal leek,
Thomas O. Larkin,

Charles T. Botts,
Pacificus Ord,
Lewis T. Dent.

San Jose.

Joseph Aram,
Kimball H. Dimmick,
J. D. Hoppe,
Antonio M. Pico,
Elam Brown,
Julian Hanks,
Pedro Sansevani.

Sonoma.

Joel P. Walker,
Robert Semple,
Mariano G. Vallejo.

San Francisco.

Edward Gilbert,
Myron Norton,
William M. Gwin,
Joseph Hobson,

William M. Stewart,
Francis J. Lippitt,
A. J. Ellis,
Rodman M. Price.

San Joaquin.

Thomas Lloyd Vermeule,

0. M. Wozencroft,

B. F. Moore,

J. M. H. Hollingsworth,

J. M. Jones,

Benjamin S. Lippincott.

Sacramento.

Jacob R. Snyder,
Winfield S. Sherwood,
L. W. Hastings,
John MeDougal,
William E. Sliannon,
John A. Sutter,
Elisha 0. Crosby,
M. M. McCarver.

138

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

Monterey,

The delegates, at their first regular meeting on the 4th of
September, chose, by a large majority of votes, Dr. Robert Scrapie
as president of the convention ; Captain William Gr. Marcy was
then appointed secretary, and the other necessary offices were
properly filled up. The house in which the delegates met was a
large handsome two-story stone erection, called " Colton Hall,"
and was perhaps the best fitted for their purposes of any building
in the country.

Without narrating the particular incidents and debates that
occurred among the delegates, it may be sufficient to say, that,
after rather more than a month's constant labor and discussion,
the existing constitution of California was drafted and finally
adopted by the convention. This noble document was formed
after the model of the most approved State constitutions of the
Union, and was framed in strict accordance with the most liberal
and independent opinions of the age. Some indeed of its pro-
visions may be open to cavil, as for instance, whether the judges
— supreme ones particularly — should be chosen by direct election
of the people, and for only a limited period, and whether the
free descendants of the black and red races should be excluded
from the rights of sufi'rage and election. But, taking it as a
whole, the constitution, which is essentially democratic in its

STATE CONSTITUTION ADOPTED. 139

nature, must certainly be pronounced, in its declaration of rights
and the various divisions regulating the election, powers and
duties of the legislative, executive and judicial departments, as well
as the portion respecting education, a wonderful advance and im-
provement in the modern art of government. Among other things,
it expressly rejected slavery and " involuntary servitude," and
declared the right of women to hold as their own separate pro-
perty after marri«,ge, the estates, both real and personal, which
they possessed before it, or which they might afterwards acquire
by gift, devise or descent. But it is unnecessary in our narrow
limits to dwell on the peculiar features of this celebrated consti-
tution. We refer our readers to the document itself, which should
be in the hands of every Californian. It will bear keen criticism,
and merits the close study of statesmen of every country.

On thu 13th of October, the delegates signed the precious
instrument ; and so finished the labors they were appointed to
perform. While the signatures were being affixed, shot after shot
slowly boomed from the guns of the fort in honor of the Union,
and as the thiyty -first and last was heard, which was a little louder,
the listeners thought, than those that had gone before, the sup-
pressed feelings of the people broke forth, and all joyously ex-
claimed — '■ That's for California ! " — and so it was.

Thus was completed the great duty of 1849. From this
time forward, the history of the State demands a separate volume.
In this, we have only aimed at giving a mere sketch of its previ-
ous history, as a proper introduction to the "Annals of San
Francisco." Our next chapter will contain a short account of
the physical geography, and of the commercial, agricultural, pas-
toral and mineral capabiUties of the country, which will conclude
Part First of the present work.

CHAPTER XII.

Geographical limits of Upper Califbrnia.— General description of the country.— Two great divisions
of the northern part of the State. — Fertility of the soil.— Peculiarities of the climate.— Two
seasons: wet and dry.— Products of the country. — Fogs and winds on the coast.- The harhors.
— Country west of the Sierra Nevada. — The Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, and their val-
leys. — This region of country abounds in timber. — Excessive heat in the dry season. — fiocalities
of the chief gold placers. — Immense size of trees. — Silver, lead, copper and coal mines. — Advan-
tages to the immigrant.

In the " Constitution," the boundary of the State of California
is declared to be as follows : —

" Commencing at the point of intersection of the 42d degree
of north latitude with the 120th degree of longitude west from
Greenwich, and running south on the line of said 120th degree
of west longitude, until it intersects the 39th degree of north
latitude ; thence running in a straight line in a south-easterly
direction to the RiverColorado, at a point where it intersects the
35th degree of north latitude ; thence down the middle of the
channel of said river, to the boundary line between the United
States and Mexico, as established by the treaty of May 30th,
1848 ; thence running west, and along said bouodary line to the
Pacific Ocean, and extending thereon three English miles ;
thence running in a north-westerly direction, and following the
direction of the Pacific coast to the 42d degree of north lati-
tude ; thence on the line of said 42d degree of north latitude
to the place of beginning. Also, all the islands, harbors and
bays, along and adjacent to the Pacific coast."

Within the above limits, California extends, from south-east
to north-west, nearly seven hundred and fifty English miles in
length, and, in average breadth, from east to west, about two
humlred and fifty. Its superficies, therefore, may be estimated
at about 187,500 square miles, or nearly twice the size of Great
Britain. The south-eastern part of the country, excepting a

GENERAL DESCRIPTIOX OF THE COUNTRY, 141

narrow belt along the coast, has not yet been explored, and little
is known of its character. A great chain of mountains, called
by the Spaniards the Sierra Nevada, or Snowy Range, runs
nearly through the centre of the southern district. Farther
north, this mountain range, which has a probable average height
of from eight to ten thousand feet above the sea level, though
many of its parts rise much higher, and are covered with perpe-
tual snow, becomes the eastern boundary of the State, and at
the extreme northern limit, by various cross ranges, separates it
from the territory of Oregon. Eastward of the Sierra Nevada,
and between it and the territory of Utah, lies the curious and
extensive district called the Great Basin, which has no outlet to
the ocean for its waters. This is a wild countrv that has been
hitherto traversed only in one or two great lines, but never
thoroughly explored, and which does not seem to have been
intended by nature for the abode of any large human population.
To the south of the boundary line is situated the Mexican
province of Old or Lower California. The Pacific Ocean forms
the western limit of the State.

The northern portion of California, to the extent of three
fourths of the whole country, naturally falls into two great divi-
sions. One lies on the east, and stretches over the whole of the
space mentioned from south to north, comprehending the valleys
of the San Joaquin in the south and the Sacramento in the north,
together with all the lateral valleys and foothills from the sum-
mit elevation of the Sierra Nevada, and extending westward to
the watershed that separates the streams which flow into the
San Joaquin and Sacramento from those which either flow di-
rectly into the Pacific, or into the Bay of San Francisco. The
other great division includes the whole country drained by the
last named streams ; and may also be allowed to embrace the
country farther to the south, likewise drained by streams which
disembogue directly into the Pacific. As already stated, the
extreme south-eastern part of the country supposed to be watered
by streams which empty themselves into the Rio Colorado, has
not been fully explored, and no proper description can therefore
be given of it.

The missions, of which a particular account has been given in

142 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

preceding chapters, were located in the second mentioned division
of country, and excepting only two lying on the northern side
of tlie Bay of San Francisco, were all situated to the south of
the entrance to tliat inlet. A multitude of pleasant, fertile
valleys extend from the coast inland a length of from twenty to
forty miles ; and every main valley, of any extent, had its mis-
si(tn. The hills in this division seldom exceed two thousand feer
in height. The whole country is exceedingly diversified and
beautiful, and has hitherto been almost wholly devoted to the
fn-azin<^ of innumerable herds of cattle and horses, and also of
large flocks of sheep. The tables and statements already given
of the possessions of the Fathers in domestic cattle and farm
produce, may serve in some measure to show the astonishing fer-
tility of the soil, and its capabilities to support a large popula-
tion, as well as the comj)arative value of different districts.
These tables and statements, however, by no means exhibit the
extent of cultivated land. Very far from that. Much of the
mission property was neglected, and most of it never turned to
the best use of which it was capable. The fertility of the soil
indeed is so great, and the genial warmth and general climate so
l)ropitious to agriculture, that corn crops and all kinds of grasses,
fruits and vegetables show such an increase as if thej^ had been
planted in a hot-bed, and manured and watered by rule to the
best advantage.

The climate of this division of the country varies consider-
al)ly, as it might be expected to do when it is considered that the
land extends over nearly ten degrees of latitude ; but still more
it varies from the circumstance of the various districts being more
oi- less subject to particular fogs and winds which prevail along
the coast. Towards the extreme south, the fogs and winds al-
luded to are not felt ; but north of Point Conception, about
latitude 34" 30', all the coast, extending from half a dozen to a
dozen miles inland, is peculiarly exposed to cold, penetrating-
winds, blowing from the north, north-west and west, and thick
wet fogs, which, especially in the summer season, are remarkably
disagreeable. These fogs, however, serve one good purpose, as
they sup[)ly abundant moisture to the crops and herbage, which
niigiit otherwise fail for the want of occasional rains in the sum-

PRODUCTS OF THE COUNTRY. 143

mer. Properly speaking, there is neither winter nor summer ;
hut the months comprehended under these terms are here called
the rainy and the dry seasons. This is the case over the whole
country. The rains usually begin about the middle of Novem-
ber, and continue with short occasional dry intervals, (the most
charming periods indeed of the year, when the air is balmy, the
surface of the earth green and fresh, and all nature, animates and
inanimate, rejoices in a holiday.) till the month of May. During
the remainder of the year, commonly no rain falls ; but its place
is sui)plied along the coast by copious dews and the wet fogs we
have alluded to.

The heat in the division of country now before us is never
excessive. Below Point Conception, it may be said that eternal
summer reigns ; and the same high character may be given to
all north of that point, which is situated a few miles inland, and
not immediately exposed to the piercing winds and fogs of the
coast. The atmosphere in these regions is ever mild and agree-
able. The temperature is never too high to prevent active exercise
out of doors, nor too low to need fires in the houses. There is
not much great timber, nor indeed wood of any kind, but the
undulating fields teem with rich natural grasses and an exube-
rance of wild flowers and flowering shrubs. Whole districts are
covered with natural oats, which supply provender to innumer-
able tame and wild creatures, when the herbage is drv, or has
partially disappeared in the heat of summer. The climate is
also remarkably salubrious ; while as if to heap upon this happy
laud all natural blessings, the fecundity of its living creatures, —
human beings as well as the lower animals, — far exceeds what
generally occurs elsewhere. The grajje, the fig, the orange and
the olive grow luxuriantly in these regions, and so too do all
other sorts of semi-tropical produce. All varieties of European
fruits thrive in great plenty : plums, cherries, peaches, apricots,
melons, pomegranates, pears, apples, &c. In the more southern
parts, the plantain and banana likewise ripen. AYheat, barley
and maize, potatoes, cabbages, turnips and every other kind of
vegetable for the table, grow to the utmost perfection, and yield
a return the hke of which can scarcely be paralleled in any other
country. It is believed also that the climate, in particular dis-

144 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

tricts, is admirably adapted for the profitable culture of tobacco,
cotton and sugar. In short, there is no vegetable production of
any value raised in the temperate zone, and very few peculiar to
the torrid, which may not be cultivated to perfection in these
finer parts of California.

We have alluded to the prevailing winds and fogs of the
coast. These render navigation near the shore dangerous at
times, and are themselves very unpleasant to the new comer. It
must be admitted that they are some drawback to the otherwise
unmingled beauty and agreeableness of the climate, 'However,
in the summer season, when these fogs generally prevail, they
usually clear off by noon, leaving the rest of the day with a
bright and warm sky. The settler soon gets used to them ;
while, knowing the important part which the fogs play in drop-
ping fatness on the dry earth, he readily learns even to welcome
their presence.

There are several excellent harbors along the coast, the chief
of which is, of course, the incomparable Bay of San Francisco.
San Diego, however, at the extreme south, has likewise an ad-
mirable port ; while the havens, or roadsteads of Monterey and
Santa Barbara, sheltered from all but certain unusual winds, are
by no means despicable, but may match with good reputed har-
bors of many another country. Besides these, there are several
other fiiir anchorage grounds and partially sheltered roadsteads
along the coast, of less note ; while north of ths Bay of San
Francisco there are some bays which form excellent occasional
harbors of refuge, if not first-rate ports. The Bay of San Fran-
cisco itself is so extensive, while the country surrounding it is so
fertile, and will one day become so populous, that many more
harbors than the one at the city of that name, will hereafter be
formed in this moderate sized inland sea. There is ample depth
of water around its shores, and sheltered coves enough for the
fomiation of several other harbors, which may almost rival that
of the City of San Francisco itself.

The other great division of the country, that lying east of
the one just dwelt upon, and west of the Sierra Nevada, has
been less thoroughly examined than the coast district, and not
so often described ; yet enough of it is known to show that it is

SAN JOAQUIN AND SACRAMENTO VALLEYS. 145

capable of supporting a vast immigrating population in comfort
and plenty. This division comprehends the great valleys of the
Sacramento and San Joaquin, with all the smaller side valleys
running into them. The Sacramento takes its rise near the
extreme northern limit of the State, in the neighborhood of
Mount Shasta, which is 14,400 feet in height above the sea level.
From thence it flows, in a southerly direction, for nearly three
hundred miles, carrj'ing off the waters of numerous streams on
both sides till it receives those of the San Joaquin, which have
come to meet it from the south-east, for nearly two hundred
miles. The united streams then run westward a further distance
of sixty or seventy miles, through various arms of the Bay of
San Francisco, till they rush through the " Golden Gate," to
bury themselves in the Pacific. The Sacramento has already
been na\dgated by steamers for one hundred miles above its
junction with the San Joaquin, while the latter has been navi-
gated by the same class of vessels, above the point mentioned for
seventy miles.

The great longitudinal valley of these rivers contains an
exceedingly fertile soil, fitted to grow any kind of grain, fruits
and edible roots. There is much timber in various parts of this
great region. Many varieties of the pine tribe are common, most
of which grow to an enormous size. But besides pines, the oak
especially abounds, as also elm, ash, beech, birch, plane and other
kinds of trees. The native fruit trees are not numerous. The
number and variety of indigenous herbs are very great. As
besides the pines which yield tar and resin, and every size of
spar and good timber for shij)-building, it is found that hemp
and flax grow wild, and thrive exceedingly well in the country,
it will be seen that this region contains most of the material
elements to make Cahfornia a great maritime nation. It was in
the vaUey of the Sacramento that a large number of Ameiican
immigrants had settled previous to the discovery of gold. Por-
tions of the lower districts of both it and the San Joaquin valley
are Hable to be overflowed by floods which sometimes swell the
rivers to a great depth, when storms and meltings of the snow
on the Sierra Nevada suddenly gorge all the mountain torrents.
At other times, after a long track of dry weather, imgation
10

14(> ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO,

would almost seem to be indispensable for profitable farming in
several districts ; although this, as yet, is considered to be by
no means certain. The cold winds and moist fogs of the coast
are sometimes wanted in this division, as well to water the
parched earth, as to temper the excessive heat of the solar rays,
retlectcd from the sides of the hills in the narrower valleys, and
concentrated every where to a high degree. In the great longi-
tudinal valley, and still more in the smaller cross valleys which
lie between the former and the Sierra Nevada, the heat in
summer is sometimes very dreadful — rising frequently, and that
too, day after day, for months together, to 100° and 110° of
Fahrenheit. Still, notwithstanding these drawbacks, the soil i&
so rich and productive, and the climate so extremely dry and
healthy, that there is every reason to believe these districts will
soon be largely inhabited by an agricultural population. In
some parts of the valley of the San Joaquin which are liable
to be overflowed by the river floods, it is believed that rice may
be profitably cultivated. Meanwhile, there is abundance of deer
and smaller game in the forests and plains ; the streams and
lakes absolutely swarm with the most delicious fish ; while
geese, ducks, and other wild fowl are exceedingly plentiful.

It is in the cross valleys running up to the summit elevation
of the Sierra Nevada that the chief gold placers are situated.
The whole country in this quarter, for a length of at least five
hundred miles, and an average breadth of perhaps thirty or forty,
is highly auriferous. The loose bed of every stream particularly,
but also the dry sandy soil of most of the intervening plains,
uplands and hills, contains particles of gold ; while even the deep
seated rocks in many parts are impregnated with the precious
metal, and are beginning to be wrought in a scientific manner
for its extraction. If some small portion of the auriferous
district may already seem to be almost exhausted, yet its whole
extent is so great, and so many parts are yet untouched, while
all, by the aid of proper scientific appliances, can be made still
to render a bountiful reward to the miner, that it may be truly
said, generations must pass before the Cahfornian gold regions
can be emptied of their treasures, or cease to be profitably
wrought. This may be more particularly said of the gold-bear-

)

IMMENSE SIZE OF TREES. 147

ing quartz rocks and veins, wbich in many places are exceed-
ingly numerous and rich.

Nature, as if content to scatter her bounties in this quarter
beneath the surface, has not also gifted the soil with exceeding
fertility, although there are many beautiful and fertile small
spots to be found in the district. In the months of April and
May, these places bloom and smell like a well tended garden,
from the variety, beauty and perfume of their wild flowers. The
mineral riches make it less desirable that these districts should
also possess a rich and prolific soil. Still it is in this quarter
that those enormous trees chiefly grow which amaze and almost
terrify by their prodigious height and bulk, those who have been
only used to the puny forests of less favored climes. A common
enough height for these trees is three hundred feet, while an
equally common diameter may range from fifteen to twenty feet.
Many, however, have been found of much larger dimensions.
The forests on the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada wall give
an inexhaustible supply of timber for household and most other
purposes to which wood is applied in the country.

Besides the gold mines on the west skirts of the Snowy Moun-
tains, there are several others scattered over California ; while
many other mineral treasures are to be found. There is a valu-
able mine of quicksilver near San Jose, and many silver, and
silver and lead mines, as well as others of copper and lead are
already known in various parts of the country. However, the
population up to the time of the rush to the gold regions was
too small, and the capital and energy of the owners too limited,
to permit these and similar mines to be wrought to advantage.
Coal has been discovered in some parts as well as iron. There
is excellent stone for building purposes to be had in various
places. Sulphur, asphalte and many other valuable mineral
substances are also ascertained to exist in different localities.
The mineral wealth of the country indeed, though not fully
examined, is believed to be far more extensive than what has
hitherto appeared, however great it may seem in these times.

To the immigrant from an old settled land, where competi-
tion exists in severity, and the means of a bare subsistence are
not easily to be had, California offers every inducement to draw

148 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

him to her country. Here is political and social freedom — a
beautiful, pleasant, and healthy climate — a soil rich, and fertile,
producing every necessary, and most of the luxuries of life —
rivers and bays, abounding with deUcious fish ; forests and fields,
with game of every species — mineral regions, where fortunes
may be made on a sudden, and, at all events, where the indus-
trious laborer is sure to provide a moderate competency for him-
self, in a wonderfully short space of time. Here are towns start-
ing yearly, nay, almost weekly, into existence, whose inhabitants
are full of life, energy and hope, determined and certain to
prosper; great cities and ports, swelling into magnificence before
one's eyes, destined ere long to bear sway over the broad Pacific,
by reason of their natural position, their wealth, energy and
power. Here labor is honorable, and meets an ample reward ;
and, here, while the most unbounded ambition, in mining and
agricultural, commercial and political pursuits, may gratify its
most daring inner wishes, and the patriotic enthusiast foresee
a glorious future to this, his adopted country, the peaceful, retir-
ing and contented settler may select a quiet, sunny, cheerful
spot for his abode, and beneath unclouded skies and through
perpetual summer, among vines, and fig-trees, and flowers, and
all bright and pleasant things, pass life happily away.

PART SECOND.

CHAPTEE I.

Description of the Golden Gate.— Origin of the name.— The Bays of San Francisco, San Pablo, and
Suisun.— Eivers emptying into Suisun Bay. — Description of the adjacent country, — Indian tra-
dition. — Eemarkablo fertility of the soil. — Farm produce and mode of farming.— Location of the
City of San Francisco. — The name Terba Bnena. — The first house built. — Disadvantages of the
locality. — No provision made for desirable public squares or parks.

The mid-entrance to the Bay of San Francisco lies in latitude
37° 48' K, and longitude 122= 30' W., from Greenwich. This
is a strait, running nearly north-east, called Chrysopalce, of the
Golden Gate, about five miles long, and of an average breadth
of one and a half or two miles. The name " Golden Gate " first
appears in the " Geographical Memoir of CaHfornia," and rela-
tive map, published by Col. Fremont in the spring of 1848.
The term was descriptive, not of the literal golden regions
within, then as yet undiscovered, but merely of the rich and fer-
tile country which surrounded the shores of the bay, and of the
wealth which the commerce of the Pacific, passing through the
strait, would certainly give to the future great city of the place.
The name was probably suggested by the Golden Horn of Con-
stantinople. Since the discovery of the auriferous character of
the country, the title has become of a still more happy nature ;
and its bestower must surely have had a prophetic soul, though
he himself knew it not. At the narrowest point of the strait,
where it is little more than a mile wide, the Spaniards had
erected a small fort for the protection of the neighboring mission.
This building is now in course of removal, to be speedily replaced

150 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

(let US hope) by a larger and stronger fortress for the adequate
defence of the bay. The southern point of land, on the side' of
the ocean, is called in the Spanish language, Punta de los Lohos
(Wolves' Point), and the northern, Punta Bonita (Pretty Point).
A few small rocks, at all times quite visible, lie about the en-
trance, and along the coast of the strait ; but the channel other-
wise is very deep and free from obstruction. About twenty or
thirty miles off the coast, and in a westerly direction from the
Golden Gate, lie certain small rocky islands, called the Farra-
lones, once favorite places for hunting seals and sea-otters by the
Russians, and upon which that people had a small permanent
settlement. Ujion these islands the creatures mentioned are
still to be found. A bar lies nearly across the mouth of the
strait, upon which occasionally there is a heavy swell. Formerly
tliis bar ran right across and within the actual Jimits of the
strait, but during the last thirty years it has gradually shifted
two miles farther to seaward, so that it now forms a kind of
arch, altogether outside of the entrance, spanning from point to
point of the strait. In the same period, a bank has likewise ad-
vanced from the south shore. By these natural operations the
entrance channel to the bay has been much improved. On this
subject it may be stated that all the shores in the mouth of the
bay are liable to be washed off every year, by the combined
strength of the wind, tides, local currents, and floods. In the
great freshets of the spring of 1825 more than fifty yards of land
were swept away to the westward of the fort.

The depth of water on the bar at low tide is considerable
enough to permit the largest ship of war to safely cross it. The
strait itself has a dej)th varying from five or sis to sixteen
fathoms and upwards. The shores are bold and rocky, and in
some parts precipitous, swelling on the north side into mountains
of upwards of two thousand feet in height. The hills on the
southern side are more of a sandy nature, and may be only three
hundred or four hundred feet high. On both sides they are
quite bare and barren. The strong winds and heavy fogs which
constantly assail them, and their own sandy or rocky nature,
have effectually prevented trees or luxuriant vegetation of any
kind from growing. On the very summit, however, of the moun-

DESCRIPTION OF THE CxOLDEX GATE.

151

tains on the northern side of the strait, there happens to be a
solitary group of red-wood trees, whose tall forms make a striking
landmark to the mariner at sea. As he approaches the strait
from the south, the voyager has seldom perhaps seen so dismal a
looking place. A midtitude of low, bleak sand hills on the sea
shore, often swept over by flying clouds of dense mist, first greet

Entrance to the Golden Gate.

his eyes. On passing gradually through tlie Golden Gate, how-
ever, the interior coasts begin sensibly to improve upon him.
The hills assume a more even character, which, as well as the
beautiful islands that stud the bay, are at certain seasons of the
year covered with vegetation, presenting a truly pleasing ajipear-
ance.

The tidal stream rushes throu<rh the a;ate in mid-channel
generally about six knots an hour. Along the projecting por-
tions of the strait there are numerous eddies. By taking advan-
tage of this great tidal speed, and of particular winds, which can

X52 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

almost daily be depended upon, blowing either in or out of the
channel at certain periods of the day, ships may always safely
enter or depart from the bay at all times of the year. An occa-
sional wreck, where ships may have been driven by the strength
of the tide or local currents upon the rocky shores, has indeed
taken place ; but this has generally been traceable to the igno-
rance or carelessness of the pilot. Hitherto that class of men,
as might have been anticipated, have not been all picked indi-
viduals ; and some of them may not have had sufficient time to
study the peculiarities of the channel. It may, however, be con-
fidently asserted, that there are very few harbors in the world
where the entrance and departure are so easy and safe as those
of the one of San Francisco. To talk of it in the same breath
with such difficult and dangerous ocean ports as those of Liver-
pool and New York, or the river ones of London and New Or-
leans, is simply ridiculous.

After passing the strait, the great Bay of San Francisco sud-
denly opens up. This bay lies almost at right angles to the en-
trance just described ; and extends from north to south nearly
seventy miles, with an average breadth of about ten or twelve.
The southern division, comprehending about two-thirds of the
entire length, chiefly lies south of the entrance, and is more pro-
perly styled the Bay of San Francisco ; although the whole
body of inland waters, when spoken of in a general sense, is
commonly understood by that phrase. The northern division,
which is in some degree topographically separated from the other
by narrows and several small islands about the eastern end of
the strait, is known by the name of the Bay of San Pablo. At
the eastern extremity of the last named bay, the waters contract
into the Strait of Carquinez. Still more to the east, they again
widen into Suisun Bay, into which, through various channels,
called the Slough, a sort of delta much overrun with large trees
and jungle, the mingled streams of the Sacramento and San
Joa(|uin, enter and lose themselves. From the ocean to the
north-east corner of Suisun Bay, following the line of mid-chan-
nel, there may be a distance of between fifty and sixty miles.
The largest ships may sail as far as the city of Benicia, originally
called Francisca, situated on the north side of the Strait of Car-

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY,

153

quinez, where the channel is little more than a mile wide, and
at which place are a government dock-yard and naval stores.
Ahove that point, the water is at parts scarcely deep enough to
allow vessels of great burden to proceed, while the channels of
the Sacramento, through the delta, or slough, are intricate, and
encumbered with shifting shoals and sand-banks.

The Golden Gata

Around the northern shores of the Bays of San Pablo and
Suisun lies a very fertile and beautiful country, watered by
streams, severally called the Suisun Eiver, Napa, Sonoma, and
Petaluma Creeks. The valleys of these rivers will in a few years
be the residence of a great .number of agricultural settlers, while
already numerous small towns are beginning to be established
among them. But the Sacramento and its greater tributaries,
the Puta Creek, and the American, Feather and Butte Rivers,
and the San Joaquin, with its leading feeders, the Mokelumne,
Calaveras, Stanislaus, and Tuolumne Rivers, are the great high-
ways of communication between the interior country and the
ocean ; and in the extensive, beautifid, and most fertile districts
drained by them will be located hereafter the abodes of many
millions of human beino's. In the vallev of the Sacramento and

154 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

its offshoots are situated the great city of that name, and the
thriving towns of Marysville and Nevada. In the valley of the
San Joaquin, or in the connecting valley, are the considerable
and o-rowin": towns of Stockton and Sonora. Besides these
places, there are numerous other towns beginning to be established
in this great district.

South of San Pablo and Suisun Bays, and east of the Bay
of San Francisco proper, lies the district of country called Contra
Costa. This quarter is very mountainous, some of the summits
being upwards of three thousand feet high. One of them, Monte
Diablo, is three thousand seven hundred and seventy feet in
heio-ht. On the west, however, between the mountains and the
Bay of San Francisco, is a considerable tract of level land which,
like nearly all of a similar description in the country, is exceed-
ingly rich and productive.

On the opposite side of the bay, and between it and the
ocean, lies the long peninsula called the District of San Fran-
cisco. This strip of land is upwards of thirty miles long, with
an average breadth of perhaps twelve or sixteen. The side im-
mediately next the ocean is cold and barren. In the interior,
and towards the bay, it possesses a mild climate, and is of great
fertility. The surface is irregular and hilly ; but the many small
glens are green to the top, covered with luxuriant herbage, on
which feed many thousands of sheep and cattle. The northern
portion of this district is generally bare of trees and the larger
shrubs ; but much heavy timber grows in the middle and south-
ern parts. At the southern extremity of the bay lies an exten-
sive tract of land, which may be considered the choicest portion
of all the country we have been describing. Here, near the
mouth of the valley, w^atered by the Kiver Guadalupe, are situ-
ated the towns of San Jose and Santa Clara. The beauty and
salubrity of this district, its mild and agreeable climate, and ex-
ceeding productiveness, make it especially the granary, orchard
and garden of the City of San Francisco and surrounding parts.

We may observe here, that there is a tradition among the
Indians of California, that San Francisco Bay originally formed
a fresh water lake. An earthquake, however, suddenly opened
the hne of mountains along the coast, when the sea rushed in,

FERTILITY OF THE SOIL.

155

and cliano-ed the res-ion to what it now is. The surplus fresh
waters of the old lake were supposed to have been discharged
into the Bay of Monterey, by a great river flowing through the
valley of San Jos6 and Santa Clara. This river was beheved to
pass near the Mission of San Juan, and to fall into the present
stream of the Pajaro.

^Sli

City of Stockton.

In the fertile districts of country all around the shores of the
bay the average productiveness of the soil is exceedingly great, far
beyond the usual return from tillage lands in most other countries
of the temperate zone, and rivalling, in fact, those of the torrid
zone itself A common yield from sown wheat is from seventy to
eighty fold, though it is said to run often as high as one hundred
and upwards. A moderate average may be taken at fifty fold.
Maize occasionally gives a return of one hundred and fifty fold ;
while if it produces less than one hundred, it is scarcely consider-
ed worthy of notice. It may be remarked that the seed in gen-
eral is much less thickly sown than in most other countries ; and,
naturally, therefore, having space to spread and fructify, there is a
greater corresponding increase. Potatoes have been found of the
enormous weight of seven and eight pounds, while those of two
and three pounds are quite common. The usual yield of potatoes is

156 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

from two to three hundred sacks an acre. And such potatoes ! In no
part of the world are there larger, finer, firmer and healthier roots
o-rown. Newly-come immigrants and casual visitors are invariably
full of raptures at the sight of such magnificent earth apples. The
cabbages, again, are absolute monsters in size, often from fifteen
to twenty inches in diameter ; and as good in quality as enormous
in bulk. Carrots often grow nearly a yard in length, and are of
corresponding gii'th. Turnips, beets, radishes, onions, and indeed
every kind of edible root and table vegetable grows equally large,
and of the best and most wholesome description. Cahfornia is
indeed celebrated for its garden and field productions. The ber-
ries and fruits of the vineyard and orchard show a corresponding
increase, and are of the most excellent kind. Long ago it had
been imagined by hasty travellers and writers, that California had
only an arid, sterile soil, never adapted to the successful pursuit
of agriculture. On the contrary, the country is exceedingly well
watered, the soil is naturally rich, and the difi'used warmth and
geniality of the climate is such as to force to safe maturity an
abundant harvest of all kinds. Of course, manure in the present
stage of California, is out of the question. The teeming fields
will not require it for a generation or two, if ever. The present
practice is simply to break fresh ground every year ; and until the
agricultural settlers become much more numerous, there will be
abundance of land for such a mode of farming. There is no need
of farm buildings to house and stock the grain for shelter. The
cHmate is so dry in the harvest season that the crops are never
spoiled by wet ; but the ears are just threshed out on the fields
where they grow. Farming operations formerly were of a very
rude nature, as they still generally are, though the soil shows so
large a return. When an improved method of husbandry is adopt-
ed, the yield will be correspondingly great. A slight wooden
shed, open upon one side to the weather, and merely covered with
canvas or scantling, affords quite a sufficient shelter, summer,
and winter, to milch cows and the most delicate trained horses.

From the previous description of the districts surrounding the
inland waters known by the general name of the Bay of San Fran-
cisco, it will be noticed that their respective productions, seen to
be 80 great, can best be interchanged across that bay ; and that

DESCKIPTION OF YERBA BUENA. 157

their only communication with the ocean is through the Golden
Gate. Conveniently placed as nearly as possible to this gate lies
the city of San Francisco, in latitude 37° 48' N. and longitude
122° 25' W. from Greenwich. It is situated on the north-east
corner of the peninsula already mentioned, about a mile south of
the eastern end of the general entrance to the bay, and is distant
about six miles from the ocean. The situation happens to be
about the most barren part of the district ; and the immediate
Aacinity consists chiefly of low sand-hills, covered with coarse shrubs
and scattered patches of grass. The name of the Spanish village
which originally stood on a portion of the site of the present city
was Yerba Buena — good herb. In some maps of the country it
was designated as San Francisco ; but locally it was only known
by the name we have mentioned. Yerba Buena signifies also the
herb mint, great quantities of which grew about the spot, and
from that circumstance no doubt the name of the place is derived.

An island, lying in the bay about two miles east of the city
likewise bears the name of Yerba Buena, where the herb mention-
ed grows abundantly. Probably this island first bore the name
which later was given to the cove lying between it and the main
land ; and subsequently it was extended to the plain and village
surrounding the beach. But the name mentioned was descriptive
l)oth of the island and the shore itself, since on both grew the
yerba buena. This herb grows through the underwood in form
of a vine, some feet long. The leaves are six inches apart, each
directly opposite another. It is very fragrant, and is used to make
a tea or alterative medicinal drink, though its frequent use is said
to debilitate the system. The name of so insignificant an herb
for the rising city being perhaps judged not sufiiciently imposing,
it was changed into San Francisco- in January, 1847, by an
ordinance of the then alcalde of the place, and under this last
designation it has been alone known to the world at large.

The viUage of Yerba Buena was situated in the small cove of
that name, which extended little more than half a mile between
Clark's Point (so named by Captain J. F. Hutton, in 1849),
on the north-west, and the Bincon, or Bincon Point, on the south-
east. The first tenement was constructed in the year 1835, by
Captain W. A. Kichardson, and up to the year 1846, there might

158

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

not bo more than twenty or thirty houses of all descriptions in
the place. The only practicable landing spot for small boats at
low title was at Clark's Point, where there were a few rocks. In
the inside of the cove where the water was shallow, there was an

IsliHid and Cove of Yerba Buena.

extensive flat of mud, laid bare at low water. The rise and fall
<jf ordinary tides was about eight feet. About a quarter of
a mile from the beach, the water deepened to five and six fath-
oms, and continued of the same or of little greater depth the whole
distance to the Island of Yerba Buena opposite. This space now
forms the present harbor and centre of the anchorage ground of
San Francisco. As Yerba Buena began to increase in size and
im2)ortance, the beach and water lots were seen to be of the ut-
most value ; and measures* accordingly were taken, in 1847, and
following years, to extend the village, or town as it might now be
called, over a great portion of the cove. About the same time
the i)resent character of the place began to be formed, which sub-
scfpient years developed into the existing grand plan of the City
of San Francisco.

Rising up from Clark's Point, and between Yerba Buena Cove
and the cove farther to the north-west, now called the North Beach,
is the liigh ground named the Telegraph Hill. West and south

LOCATION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 159

of this hill, in a semicircular direction, lie other connecting high
grounds, hearing the names oi Bussian Hill, Fern Hill, &c. These
hills are ahout three hundred feet high. From the Eincon like-
wise rises a high ground of about from one hundred to one hun-
dred and fifty feet in height, which runs a short distance in a
westerly direction towards the Mission Dolores. Beyond and
south of the ridge alluded to lies j\Iission Bay, and the low ground
bordering Mission Creek. The distance between Telegraph Hill
and the last mentioned ridge, may be about three quarters of a
mile ; while that between the semicircular line of hills on the
west and the advanced line of streets built much within the
limit of ebb tide in Yerba Buena Cove, may be nearly the same.
Upon this limited space stands the most valuable and business
portion of San Francisco, and its most substantial and magnifi-
cent buildings. However, over all the hills, and much of the
country on every side beyond them, the ground has been regular-
ly laid out into building lots, lying upon long straight streets,
crossing each other at right angles ; and many excellent houses,
together with a scattered multitude of an inferior description,
have been erected on them. Indeed the nominal limits of the city
and the building stances, as actually surveyed and mapped out,
at this time, extend from the west side of North Beach to the
south side of Mission Creek, a distance of nearly four miles, in a
straight fine ; and from Eincon Point to the Mission Church, a
distance, likewise, in a direct fine, of upwards of tliree miles.
Over all tliis space, some eight or nine square miles, on height
and in hollow, and upon every degree of elevated site, are sj)read
a variety of detached buildings, built partly of stone and brick,
though principally of wood. But, as we have already stated, the
heart and strength and wealth of the city is contained within the
little level space lying between the hills or rising grounds partic-
ularly mentioned, and the narrow waters of Yerba Buena Cove.
These waters are yearly continuing to be encroached upon as the
cove gets filled up with sand and rubbish, excavated from the
sand-hills and the foundations of the limits behind, and as new
streets and houses, formed on piles, are pushed further out into
the bay. By these operations the old character of the cove has
been completely changed, and at present, instead of the former

IGO ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

semicircle of beach there is almost a straight line of huilding
extendins: across the middle of the cove from the Eincon to Clark's
Point. In many places of what is now the very centre of the
business portion of the city lie large vessels, which in the disas-
trous years of shijjping, 1848 and 1849, got stranded or were used
as store-ships or lodging-houses on the beach. When the exten-
sion of the city towards the waters of the cove took place, these
ships remained where they lay, fast imbedded in mud, while long
streets, hollow beneath, and numerous solid houses arose on every
side, effectually to hem them in for ever.

The deepening water will prevent the city from moving much
farther into the bay, while the steep rising grounds in the rear
will equally prevent it from climbing and spreading over the
sandy, irregular country beyond them. The city will probably
therefore be forced to proceed northward towards the North
Beach, where there is already a long pier formed, but where there
is remaining but limited building room at best. It will also
spread, as it is beginning to do, over the extensive and compara-
tively level tract of ground lying to the south-west, on the banks
of Mission Creek, and in the direction of the JViission Dolores.
Perhaps not many years hence the whole shores at North Beach
and South Beach (Mission Bay), and the bay itself to a consid-
erable distance from the present high- water mark, will be covered
with streets and houses, quays and long piercing piers, just as
now is the cove of Yerba Buena. The existing surveys and
plans of the city, anticipating futurity, already exhibit these
places, both on land and sea, divided and feirly mapped out into
streets and wharves.

Over all these square miles of contemplated thoroughfares,
there seems no provision made by the projectors for a public park
— the true "lungs" of a large city. The existing jplaza, or
Portsmouth Square, and other two or three diminutive squareS;,
delineated on the plan, seem the only breathing-holes intended
for the future population of hundreds of thousands. This is a
strange mistake, and can only be attributed to the jealous ava-
rice of the city projectors in turning every square vara of the
site to an available building lot. Indeed the eye is wearied, and
the imagination quite stupefied, in looking over the numberless

LOCATION OF SAN FRANCISCO. ] 61

square — all square — building blocks, and mathematically straight
lines of streets, miles long, and every one crossing a host of oth-
ers at right angles, stretching over sandy hill, chasm and plain,
without the least regard to the natural inequalities of the ground.
Not only is there no public park or garden, but there is not even
a circus, oval, open terrace, broad avenue, or any ornamental line
of street or building, or verdant space of any kind, other than
the three or four small squares alluded to ; and which every resi-
dent knows are by no means verdant, except in patches where
stagnant water collects and ditch weeds grow.

While the position of San Francisco on the shores of the bay
was undoubtedly the best that could have been selected for mari-
time purposes, there certainly have been sad drawbacks to the
extension of the place on the land side. The want of sufficient
level space on which to found so great and growing a city, has
been partially rectified, at an enormous expense, by taking build-
ing ground from the waters, and by lowering, and in many cases
absolutely removing bodily the multitude of sand hills, by which
the place is immediately surrounded. What with digging out
and filling up, piling, capping and planking, grading and re-
grading the streets, and shifting, and rebuilding, and again re-
building the houses, to suit the altered levels, millions upon mil-
lions of dollars have been spent. This has not been recklessly
or foolishly done, and the present magnificence and business
capabilities of the city are the consequence ; while future years
will still more exliibit the grand result of aU the money that has
been sunk in municipal improvements. It would be out of place
to say more of the present appearance of the city at this portion
of the work ; but a more particular account of it wiU be given
towards the conclusion of " Part Second."

CHAPTER 11.

The Mission and Presidio of San Francisco. — Formation and survey of the village of Terba Bnena.—
Disputes and litigation in regard to Yerba Buena being a Paebli). — Captain Kjchardson the first
Harbor Master. — Visits of national and other vessels to Yerba Buena Cove. — Reasons why the
whale ships ceased to enter the harbor for supplies. — TraflBc between Yerba Buena and foreign
ports. — Hides and tallow the chief exports. — Prices obtained for these. — Heavy rains and their
effects.— Earthquakes. — Unusual drought. — Mr. Jacob P. Leese establishes himself at Yerba Bu-
ena — Celebration of the Fourth of July at Leese's house. — First child bom. — Limits of the origi-
nal survey.

The Mission of San Francisco, as mentioned in the first part of
this work, was founded in the year 1776. It was situated about
two and a half miles to the south-west of the Cove of Yerba
Buena. Besides the mission buildings, there were erected, at the
same time, a presidio and fort, along the margin of the Golden
Gate, the former being distant from the mission about four
miles, and fi"om the cove nearly the same space. The latter was
situated about a mile nearer the ocean than the presidio, close
upon the sea-beach, and on a rocky height at the narrowest point
of the strait.

Before 1835, the village of Yerba Buena had neither name
nor existence. The Mexican Government had some time before
resolved to found a town upon the cove of that name, which was
reputed the best site on the shores of the Bay of San Francisco
for establishing a port. Much discussion and litigation, involving
immense pecuniary interests, have occurred as to the date and
precise character of the foundation of Yerba Buena. It has long
been matter of keen dispute whether the place was what is called
a Spanish or Mexican ^^ pueblo ; " and although, after previous
contrary decisions, it was assumed (not being exactly decided
upon evidence) by the Supreme Court to be a "pueblo," the
subject seems to be still open to challenge. It is unnecessary in
this work to do more than merely allude to the question. In

VISITS OF NATIONAL AND OTHER VESSELS. 163

tlie year last above mentioned, General Figueroa, then governor
of the Californias, passed an ordinance, forbidding the command-
ant of the presidio of San Francisco to make any grants of land
around the Yerba Buena Cove nearer than two hundred varas
(about one hundred and eighty-five yards) from the beach, with-
out a special order from the governor, the excluded portion being
intended to be reserved for government uses. Before any steps
could be taken for the survey and laying out of the proposed
town. General Figueroa died ; and the place was neglected for
some years, and left to proceed as chance and individuals would
have it. There had been previous applications for grants of the
whole land around the cove for professedly farming purposes,
which circumstance led to the governor's passing the temporary
ordinance, lest, some time or another, the portion of ground in-
tended to be reserved should, through accident or neglect, be
granted away.

Captain W. A. Richardson was appointed the first harbor-
master, in the year 1835, and, the same year, he erected the
Jirst house, or description of dwelling, in the place. It was
simply a large tent, supported on four red-wood posts, and cov-
ered with a sliip's foresail. The captain's occupation in those
days seems to have been the management of two schooners, one
belonging to the Mission of San Francisco, and the other to the
Mission of Santa Clara. These schooners were employed in
bringing produce from the various missions and farms around the
bay to the sea-going vessels which lay in Terba Buena Cove.
The amount of freight which the captain received was twelve
cents a hide, and one dollar for each bag of tallow. The tallow
was melted down and run into hide-bags, which averaged five
hundred jjomids each. For grain, the freight was twenty-five
cents a fanega (two and a half English bushels).

Some years before this period, Yerba Buena Cove had been
occasionally approached by various ships of war and other vessels.
For many years, the Russians had continued to pay it annual
visits for supphes of meat and small quantities of grain. One of
their vessels took away annually about one hundred and eighty
or two hundred tons of such provisions. In 1816, the English
sloop of war " Racoon " entered the port ; also, in 1827, the

164 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

" Blossom," of the same nation, on a surveying cruise. In the
last named year, the French frigate " Artemesia/' of sixty guns,
arrived. In 1839, there appeared the English surveying ships,
the " Sulphur" and the "Starling." In 1841, the first Ameri-
can war vessel, the " San Luis," sloop, arrived ; and, later in
the same year, the " Vincennes," also American, on a surveying
expedition. In 1842, came the " Yorktown," the " Cyane," and
the " Dale," all of the American navy ; and in the same year,
the " Brillante," a French sloop-of-war. From this last named
year downwards both ships of war and merchantmen of all na-
tions occasionally entered the port. Whale ships first began to
make their appearance for supplies in the fall of the year 1822,
increasing in number, year by year, since that period. However,
some impolitic port restrictions by the authorities had the effect
latterly of sending oif a considerable number of this class of
ships to the Sandwich Islands, a jjlace much less convenient for
obtaining supplies than San Francisco Bay. Since likewise the
discovery of gold in the country, and the consequent temptation
of seamen to desert, as well as the enhanced price of most sup-
plies, whale ships have not found it their interest to visit San
Francisco, but prefer victualling and refitting at the Sandwich
Islands.

Previous to 1822, a small traffic was carried on between the
coast of Mexico and the California ports ; the latter exporting
principally tallow and a little soap. Some small vessels from
the Sandwich Islands also visited occasionally San Francisco and
the other harbors in California. It was in the last year named
that the trade began between California and the United States
and England. The country then sent its tallow chiefly to Callao
and Peru, and its hides to the. States and to England. The price
of a hide in 1822, was fifty cents, and of taUow, six dollars per
hundred weight. These prices had the effect of soon decreasing
the number of cattle ; and, in the following year, hides rose to
one and a half dollars apiece, payable in cash, or two dollars, if
the amount was taken in merchandise. The trade value of hides
continued at nearly this rate until the war between the United
States and Mexico. v

Some few natural occurrences during these early years of the

HEAVY RAINS AND EARTHQUAKES. 165

place are worth recording. In December 1824 and in the spring
of the following year, very heavy rains fell over all this part of
the country. The Sacramento and tributaries rose to a great
height, and their valleys were flooded in many places to a depth
of fourteen feet. It was partly owing to the great volumes of
fresh water brought down through the bay, in 1825, that a por-
tion of the land at the southern side of the entrance, was washed
away as stated in a previous chapter. In September, 1829, sev-
eral very severe shocks of an earthquake were experienced in
San Francisco, which forced open lock-fast doors and windows.
In 1839, an equally severe earthquake took place. In 1812,
however, a much more serious convulsion had been felt over all
California, which shook down houses and some churches in several
parts of the country, and killed a considerable number of human
beings. The Church of San Juan Capistrano was completely
destroyed, and forty-one persons, chiefly Indians, were killed by
its fall. We have already said that an Indian tradition attributes
the formation of the present entrance to the Bay of San Fran-
cisco to an earthquake, which forced open a great passage through
the coast range of hills for the interior waters. It may be men-
tioned, when on this subject, that since these dates, no serious
occurrences of this nature have happened at San Franciscc.
though almost every year slight shocks, and occasionally smarter
ones have been felt. God help the city if any great catastrophe
of this nature should ever take place ! Her huge granite and
brick palaces, of four, five and six stories in height, would indeed
make a prodigious crash, more ruinous both to life and property
than even the dreadful'fires of 1849, 1850 and 1851. This is
the greatest, if not the only possible obstacle of consequence to
the growing prosperity of the city, though even such a lament-
able event as the total destruction of half the place, like another
Quito or Caraccas, would speedily be remedied by the indomita-
ble energy and persevering industry of the American character.
Such a terrible calamity, however, as the one imagined, may
never take place. So " sufiicient for the day is the e^dl thereof"
This maxim abundantly satisfies the excitement-craving, money-
seeking, luxurious-living, reckless, heaven-earth-and-hell- daring
citizens of San Francisco.

IQQ ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

We have elsewhere explained the nature of the climate in

espect that the winter and summer months are simply the rainy
and dry seasons of the year. We have seen above, the effects
of excessive rains ; and we may also mark the result of unusual
drouo-ht. In the personal recollections of Captain Richardson,
who is our authority on this subject, there have been several such
seasons in the country around the Bay of San Francisco since
1822, when that gentleman came to California. The grass on
such occasions was completely dried up, and cattle perished in
consequence. The missionaries were under the necessity of send-
ino- out all their Indian servants to cut down branches of oak
trees for the herds to subsist upon. In these dryer seasons, too,
the crops suffered greatly from grasshoppers ; which insects,
about the month of July, when the corn was still green, would
sweep all before them. It may be remarked generally, that
while the year is divided into two seasons — wet and dry — there
is great irregularity, in the case of the former, as to the average
quantity of rain falling annually. During some winters heavy
rains pour down, without intermission, for months together ;
while, on other and often alternate winters, the sky is clear for
weeks — then for only a few days slight showers will descend — and
again there occurs a long period of the most delightful and dry
weather imaginable. Slight frosts are occasionally felt during the
winter months ; and ice, from the thickness of a cent to that of
an inch is seen for a day or two, nearly every season. Generally,
however, the winter climate is mild and open, and the winter
months are the most pleasant of the year.

The excessively and injuriously wet and dry seasons are ex-
ceptional cases, and do not impugn the accuracy of the state-
ments, made elsewhere, of the general mildness of the climate,
productiveness of the soil, and safety of the harvest. A fertile
field or a fruitful tree will not lose its character, because occasion-
ally there happens to be a short crop. The Pacific is still
reputed a serene ocean, though sometimes a gale or tempest
sweeps over it. Even in the case of possible earthquakes, no-
body would hold France, or Spain, or even Italy — the bella Italia
i»f the old world, as California is of the new one — to be danger-
ous countries to live in, although historical records show that

ARRIVAL OF JACOB P. LEESE AT YERBA BUENA,

167

much damage has been done in them, at long intervals, by vol-
canic eruptions and subterranean movements.

In May, 1836, Mr. Jacob Primer Leese arrived in the Cove
of Yerba Buena, with the intention of establishing a mercantile
business at San Francisco, in partnership with Mr. Nathan Spear
and Mr. W. S. Hinckley, who were to remain at Monterey, and

Jacob Primer Leese.

manage the business of the firm there. Mr. Leese brought let-
ters from the then governor of California, Don Mariano Chico,
to the alcalde and commandante of San Francisco, desiring them
to render him all assistance in their power in arranging a location
and otherwise. Mr, Leese at once fixed on the beach of Yerba
Buena Cove for his establishment, but as the ordinance of Gene-
ral Figueroa, concerning the government reserve, was still in
force, he could not procure an allotment nearer the beach than at
the distance of two hundred varas. The alcalde and comman-
dante were much pleased that Mr. Leese should come to settle

1G8 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

among their people, and at once offered him a choice of two loca-
tions, one being at the mouth of Mission Creek, and the other at
the entrance to the bay near the presidio. Mr. Leese, however,
had made up his mind on the subject ; and, partly for his own
business convenience, and probably, in part, foreseeing the increas-
ed futm-e value of sites around Yerba Buena Cove, would accept
uo o-rant but one in that quarter. In this the local authorities
could not legally aid him ; so Mr. Leese returned forthwith to
Monterey with his story and complaint to Governor Chico. On
explanations there, the governor informed Mr. Leese that he
would instruct the alcalde of San Francisco to grant an allot-
ment within the limits of the government reserve, and in the
mean time authorized Mr. Leese to select for himself the most
convenient place he could find elsewhere.

Back to Yerba Buena Cove hastened Mr. Leese, and on the
first of July presented to the alcalde his new letters. On the
following day he landed boards and other materials for building,
and immediately took possession of a one-hundred vara lot, ad-
joining on the south side that on which Captain Richard-
son's tent was already erected. Mr. Leese's lot was situated
about two hundred or two hundred and fifty yards from the
beach, and is the spot where the St. Francis Hotel was subse-
quently erected, at the corner of Clay and Dupont streets. Mr.
Leese was indefatigable in hastening the erection of his dwelling,
which was finished by ten o'clock on the morning of the 4th of
July — the Jirst glorious fourth — when the independence of Ame-
rica was commemorated in style in Cahfornia. These two houses,
belonging to Capt. Richardson and Mr. Leese, were the earliest
houses erected in Yerba Buena, and formed the beginning of the
City of San Francisco. It is but eighteen years since their
erection, and now there is a population of over fifty thousand
around the spot !

While Mr. Leese was erecting his mansion, which seems to
have been rather a grand structure, being made of frame, sixty feet
long and twenty-five feet broad, Captain Richardson was kindly
proceeding across the bay to Sonoma, where he invited all the
principal folks of the quarter to a banquet in the new building.
Two events— each great in their way — were to be celebrated :

FIKST CELEBRATION OF THE FOUKTH OF JULY. 169

first, Independence Day, and next, the arrival of Mr. Leese in
the country, his welcome and house-warming. The two worthy
souls, cordially fraternizing, were determined to make a great af-
fair of it ; and so indeed it happened. As it was the first grand
scene in the future San Francisco, where there have since been
so many, we are tempted to dwell a little on the eventful occa-
sion. Future generations will pleasantly reflect on this auspicious
commencement to the pride of the Pacific, then like a new-born
infant cradled by its tender parents, Capt. Richardson and Mr.
Leese, and tricked out in all the magnificence of an heir's baby
clothes.

At this time there was lying in the cove the American
barque "Don Quixote," commanded by Mr. Leese's partner,
Capt. Hinckley, and on board of which were their goods. There
were also at anchor in the port another American ship and a
Mexican brig. These vessels supplied every bit of colored bunt-
ing they could furnish, with which was decorated Mr. Leese's
hall. A splendid display was the result. Outside of the build-
ing floated amicably the Mexican and American flags — the first
time the latter was displayed on the shore of Yerba Buena.
Captain Hinckley seems to have been somewhat extravagant in
his passion for sweet sounds, since he always travelled with a
band of music in his train. Through this cause the most stylish
orchestra, perhaps, ever before heard in California, was provided
by him. This consisted of a clarionet, flute, violin, drum, fife
and bugle ; besides two small six pounders to form the bass, and
to add their emphatic roar to the swelling din, when a toast of
more than usual importance should be given. These last, how-
ever, were borrowed from the presidio.

The feast was prepared ; the minstrels were met ; and the
guests began to assemble about three o'clock on the afternoon of
the Fourth. They were about sixty in number, and included
General M. Gr. Vallejo and all the principal famihes from the
neighborhood of Sonoma, such as the Castro, Martinez, &c., as
well as the chief inhabitants of San Francisco. Besides the
banqueting hall, Mr. Leese had erected a number of small tents,
in which to receive his numerous guests and provide for them
comfortably. At five o'clock dinner was served, and immediately

170

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

afterwards followed the toasts. First of all was given the uniou
of tlie Mexican and American flags. (How little did the con-
vivial ])arties then dream of the near advent of the sole and ah-
solute sway of the Americans in tlie country !) General Valleju
next jiaid the honors to Washington. Then followed appropriate
national and individual toasts in their order ; but which it is

Celebration of tlie Fourth of July at Lcese's House.

needless to i)articu]arize. The guests were as happy as mortals
could well he ; and, in short, " all went merry as a marriage
hell." The abundance and variety of liquors at table seemed to
tickle the Californians amazingly. One worthy gentleman took
a prodigious flmcy to lemon syrup, a tumbler full of which he
would r|uafr to every toast. This soon made him sick, and sent
him ..ir with a coHc ; which was all matter of mirth to his "jolly
companions, every one." At ten o'clock our "city fathers" got
the table cleared for further action, and dancing and other
ainu...'inent8 then commenced. The ball was kept hot and

FIRST CHILD BORN IN YERBA BUENA. 171

rolling incessantly, all that night, and it appears, too, the follow-
ing day ; for, as Mr. Leese naively observes, in his interesting
and amusing diary, " ouj- fourth ended on the evening of the
fifth." Many of the simple-minded Indians and such lower
class white people as were not invited, had gathered around
while the festivities and sports were going on among the people
of quahty, and could not contain themselves for joy, but contin-
ually exclaimed, "^we buenos son los Americanos ! " — What
capital fellows these Americans are ! And doubtless the white
gentry thought, and often said the same.

But let a Yankee alone for knowing his own interest in spend-
ing money lavishly ! In a few days afterwards, Mr. Leese had
concluded the landing of his twelve thousand dollars worth of
goods, when he opened his store for business. The grateful guests,
and aU the people around, at once flocked to purchase ; and
trade, he says, became quite brisk, at most satisfactory prices.

Shortly after this event, Mr, Leese, upon a hasty courtship —
or rather, for he seems to have had no time to wait, and Califor-
nia was beginning to shake off her lethargy and be a go-ahead
countiy ; in fact, none beyond "popping the question," in smart
business fashion, on the 1st of April, 1837 (ominous day for such
a deed !) — was married to a sister of General VaUejo. On the
7th of the same month they were tied together, for life, by the
"holy bands of matrimony ;" and from this union, on the 15th
of April, 1838, sprung their eldest child — Eosalie Leese — heiny
the first horn in Terba Buena.

In this year, Mr. Leese erected a large frame building on the
beach, with consent of the alcalde, the latter observing that the
governor had informed him he was going to lay out a few town
lots. He therefore permitted Mr. Leese, in order to forward his
plans, to take a one-hundred vara lot provisionally where he wish-
ed. The present banking-house of Mr. James King of William,
at the corner of Commercial and Montgomery streets, and which
is situated in what may be called the centre of San Francisco,
occupies the site of Mr. Leese's frame building on the beach of Yer-
ba Buena Cove. In this year also. Captain Eichardson erected
an adobe building on the same lot he had always occupied, and
which has been already noticed. This adobe building, one and a

172 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO,

half stories liigli, was the old " Casa Grande " which stood on the
west side of Dupont-street, between Washington and Clay streets,
and was taken down in 1852. About this time, some native Cali-
fornians and a few visitors of foreign extraction, chiefly American,
began to settle in the rising town. The arrivals of ships likewise
were gradually increasing.

In 1839, Don J. B. Alvarado, then constitutional governor of
California, dispatched an order to the then alcalde of San Fran-
cisco, Francisco Haro, to get a survey taken of the plain and cove
of Yerba Buena. This was accordingly made by Captain Juan
Vioget in the fall of the same year, and was the first regular sur-
vey of the place. It included those portions of the present city
which lie between Pacific street on the north, Sacramento street
on the south, Dupont street on the west, and Montgomery street
on the east. The original bounds of the new town were therefore
very limited. The lot on which Mr. Leese built his second house
was marked No. 1 on the plan, and its eastern front made the
line of the present Montgomery street, which then formed the
beach of the cove. Mr, Leese seems to have been pretty well
treated by the authorities in the matter of the new town, since he
appears to have received, besides the allotment already mentioned,
farther grants of three one-hundred vara lots on the west side of
Dupont street, and two on the south side of Sacramento street,
as well as of other three lots, likewise outside of the survey. To
conclude this notice of Mr. Leese's close connection with the rising
fortunes of Yerba Buena, it may be mentioned, that, in the month
of August, 1841, he sold his dwelling-house to the Hudson's Bay
Company, and removed his property and family to Sonoma, with
the intention of engaging in extensive cattle transactions in Oregon,
which territory was then attracting much notice, and had begun
to draw to it manv agricultural settlers.

CHAPTER III.

Removal of the Hudson's Bay Company. — Eapid growth and Increase of population of Terba Buena.
— First newspapers established in California. — Tables showing the number of inhabitants in
1S47, with their places of birth, ages, sexes and occupations. — Ordinance of the alcalde changing
the name of Terba Buena to San Francisco. — W. A. Bartlett was the first alcalde under the Ame-
rican flag, who was succeeded by George Hyde, and he by Edwin Bryant. — Powers of an alcalde,
— Great sale of beach and water lots, agreeably to a decree of General Kearny. — Price of grants
of property, and subsequent increased value of city lots. — Width of the streets. — Municipal regu-
lation restricting purchasers.

During the early years of the existence of Yerba Buena, little
occurs worthy of notice. The place continued merely a village ;
and its history for some years subsequent to 1841, would be sim-
ply a record of the private business transactions of the Hudson's
Bay Company, whose agents and people formed nearly the entire
settlement. Even so lately as 1844, Yerba Buena contained only
about a dozen houses, and its permanent population did not ex-
ceed fifty persons. In 1846 the Hudson's Bay Company disposed
of their property, and removed from the place. After that pe-
riod it began gradually to increase in importance and population.
The progress of poUtical events during which the country passed
into American hands, was, as might have been anticipated, the
chief cause of the rapid strides onward which the place now began
to take.

By mid-summer of 1846, the population numbered upwards
of two hundred, and the buildings of all kinds had increased to
nearly fifty. From this date the place advanced with wonderful
rapidity. On the first April of the following year, it contained
seventy-nine buildings, viz. : — twenty-two shanties, thirty-one
frame-houses, and twenty-six adobe buildings. In the course of
the subsequent five months, seventy-eight new tenements were
erected, viz. : — forty-seven of frame, eleven of adobe, and twenty
shanties. About this time the permanent population had increas-

174 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

ed to nearly five hundred. By the end of April, 1848, about the
time when the " rush " to the " diggings " commenced, the town
contained nearly two hundred buildings, viz. : — one hundred and
thirty-five (finished dwelling-houses, ten unfinished houses of the
same class, twelve stores and warehouses, and thirty-five shanties.
At this last date the population numbered about a thousand in-
dividuals, composed almost entirely of people from the United
States or from European countries. Every day was bringing
new immigrants, and every week additional houses were erected.

Three kinds of buildings generally appear early in the progress
of American settlements : — the church, tavern and printing-office.
The last was established so early as January, 1847, when the pop-
ulation was little more than three hundred ; and, on the 7th of
that month the first number of the " California Star" appeared.
This paper was published by Mr. Samuel Brannan, and edited by
Dr. E. P. Jones, It was a small sheet of four pages, about fifteen
inches by twelve of type, and appeared every Saturday. It was
a neat production — type, matter and arrangement being of excel-
lent quality. A passage in the prospectus gave notice that " it
will eschew with the greatest caution every thing that tends to
the propagation of sectarian dogmas." This clause may have
been inserted in consequence of the publisher having but recently
been prominently connected with a certain religious sect, and with
a view to assure the public that it was no part of his intention to
make the "Star" the medium of promulgatingitspeculiar sectarian
tenets.

" The Calif ornian" also a weekly newspaper, of still smaller
dimensions, and of much inferior typographical pretension, had
previously appeared at Monterey, where its first number was issued
on the 15th August, 1846, by Messrs. Colton & Semple, by whom
also it was edited. Commodore K. F, Stockton, however, was the
originator of this publication. This was the first newspaper in
the English, or indeed, in any language, which was published in
California. For the sake of the natives, the editors gave a portion
of the contents in Spanish ; but the greater part from the begin-
ning, and soon the whole of it, was printed in Enghsh. The pub-
lishers seem to have been reduced to considerable difficulty in
getting out their paper. In one of the impressions they give this

FIRST NEWSPAPERS ESTABLISHED, 175

explanatory and apologetic note for its rude appearance. We
copy literally : —

"Our Alphabet. — Onr type is a Spanish font picked up here in a clois-
ter, and has no VY's [Ws] in it, as there is none in the Spanish alphabet. I
have sent to the sandwich Islands for this letter, in the mean time we must
use two Vs. Our paper at present is that used for wrapping segars ; in due
time we will have something better : our object is to establise a press in
California, and this vre shall in all probability be able to accomplish. The
absence of my partner for the last three months and my buties as Alcaldd here
have dedrived our little paper of some of those attentions which I hope it will
hereafter receive.

" Walter Colton."

The printer is responsible for a few errors in the above ex-
tract ; but the editor seems also blameable for the rapid changes
from singular to plural and back again. It will be noticed from
the date of the first number of the " Californian/' that it was
issued immediately after the capture of Sonoma and the first
hoisting of the American flag in the northern towns of California ;
and no doubt these events hastened its appearance. In the
prospectus the editor says : " We shall maintain an entire and
utter severance of all political connection with Mexico. We
renounce at once and forever aU fealty to her laws, all obedience
to her mandates. * * * We shall advocate a tenitorial
relation of California to the United States, till the number of
her inhabitants is such that she can be admitted a member of
that glorious confederacy. * * * We shall support the
present measures of the commander-in-chief of the American
squadron on the coast, so far as they conduce to the public tran-
quillity, the organization of a free representative government,
and our alliance with the United States. * * * We shall
go for California— /or all her interests, social, civil, and religioiis
— encouraging every thing that promotes these ; resisting every
thing that can do them harm." Thus, every thing was showing
that the Americans were resolved, at whatever cost, to keep the
country, and make it their own. Meanwhile, San Francisco was
rising into such importance as to make it a much superior place
for publication to Monterey ; and accordingly on the 22d day of
May, 1847, Mr. Robert Semple, who seems now to have been the

176

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

sole publisher of the " Californian," issued the first number of
the second volume of that paper at the former town, much en-
larged and every way improved. This therefore was the second
newspaper established in our city, at a time when the permanent
population did not exceed four hundred.

From the columns of these early papers we extract much
curious information regarding the number and elements of the
population of San Francisco in the latter part of June, 1847.
The following table shows the total number of inhabitants, the
sex and age of the whites, and the sex of the Indians, Sandwich
Islanders, and negroes ; excluding the officers and soldiers of
the detachment of New York volunteers stationed there at the
time : —

Whites.

Under 5 years of age

Over 5 and under 10 years

10
15

20
25
30
40
50
60
70

20
25
30
40
50
60
70
80

Total whites 247

Indians (of different ages) 26

Sandwich Islanders (of different ages)
Negroes (of different ages)

Males.

Females.

Total

—

247

128

375

Total

321

138

459

From this table it will be seen that upwards of four-fifths of
the whole population were under forty years of age ; while more
than one-half were between twenty and forty — the prime of life.
Under twenty, the sexes were nearly equal in number ; but
above that age, the vast majority were males. These circum-
stances must be borne in mind when the reader considers the
restless enterprise, energy and capability exhibited by the com-
l)aratively small population of the town. We have already
alluded to the mixture of foreigners who settled in San Fran-

POPULATION OF YEKBA BUENA.

177

CISCO. We now give the birth-places of the above white popula-
tion : —

Born in the United States, 228 ; in California, 38 ; other
Mexican departments, 2 ; Canada, 5 ; Chili, 2 ; England, 22 ;
France, 3 ; Germany, 27 ; Ireland, 14 ; Scotland, 14 ; Switzer-
land, 6 ; at sea, 4 ; Denmark, Malta, New Holland, New Zea-

San Francisco, from the Bay, in 1847.

land, Peru, Poland, Russia, Sandwich Islands, Sweden .and

West Indies, one each.

As of the number stated to have been born in California,

eight were children of immigrant parents, it will be seen that

the total population of Spanish or Mexican descent was only

thirty-two. Three-fifths of the total inhabitants were of direct

American origin ; and perhaps one-fifth more was composed of

people who had previously settled or lived in the United States.

The Americans, however, as may be supposed, were from every
12

178 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

State in the Union, and were often as different from each other
in personal characteristics, as if they had been so many foreigners
of separate countries.

The number who could read and write was two hundred and
seventy-three ; those who could read, but not write, were thir-
teen ; while those who could neither read nor write, were eighty-
nine.

From these statements it appears that the number who could
neither read nor write bore a near relation to the number of
inhabitants under ten years of age. At that period, it may be
mentioned, there was only one school in the place, and no proper
facilities were as yet given for bestowing a suitable education
upon the young.

The occupations or professions of the white males were as
follows : — 1 minister ; 3 doctors ; 3 lawyers ; 2 surveyors ; 1
school-teacher ; 11 agriculturalists ; 7 bakers ; 6 blacksmiths ;
1 brewer ; 6 brick-makers ; 7 butchers ; 2 cabinet makers ;
26 carpenters ; 1 cigar-maker ; 13 clerks ; 3 coopers ; 1 gar-
dener ; 5 grocers ; 2 gunsmiths ; 3 hotel-keepers ; 20 laborers ;
4 masons ; 11 merchants ; 1 miner ; 1 morocco-case maker ; 6
inland navigators ; 1 ocean navigator ; 1 painter ; 6 printers ;
1 saddler ; 4 shoemakers ; 1 silversmith ; 4 tailors ; 2 tanners ;
1 watchmaker ; 1 weaver.

The places in which the inhabitants conducted their business,
were as follows, viz. :- — shops, 1 apothecary, 2 blacksmith, 3
butcher, 1 cabinet maker, 2 carpenter, 1 cigar-maker, 2 cooper,
1 gun-smith, 1 shoemaker, 2 tailor, and 1 watchmaker ; 8 stores ;
7 groceries ; 2 hotels ; 1 wind-mill ; 1 horse-mill ; 2 printing-
offices ; and 3 bakeries.

The Indians, Sandwich Islanders, and negroes, who formed
nearly one-fifth of the population, were mostly employed as
servants and porters. Many of the Sandwich Islanders were
engaged in navigating the bay, and were very expert boatmen.

On the 30th of January, 1847, the following important
" ordinance " appeared in the " California Star."

"AN ORDINANCE.

"Whereas, the local name of Yerba Buena, as applied to the settlement
or town of San Francisco, is unknown beyond the district ; and has been ap-

POWERS OF AN ALCALDE. 179

plied from the local name of the cove, on which the town is built : Therefore.
to prevent confusion and mistakes in public documents, and that the town
may have the advantage of the name given on the public map,

"It is hereby ordained, that the name of San Francisco shall here-
after be used in all olBcial communications and public documents, or records
appertaining to the town.

" Wash'n a. Bartlett,

'• Chief Magistrate.
" Published by order,

" J. G. T. DuNLEAVT, Municipal Clerk."

Mr. Bartlett was the first alcalde of San Francisco under the
American flag. He was a lieutenant in the United States navy;
and on being subsequently ordered to his ship, Mr, Edwin Bryant
was appointed in his place, and sworn into office on the 22d day
of February, 1847. This gentleman had travelled the previous
year across the country from Independence, Mo., to the Pacific,
and had subsequently joined Col. Fremont as a volunteer in the
reduction of California. Shortly afterwards, he published in
New York an interesting account of his travels under the title,
" What I saw in California." Before Mr. Bryant's appointment
to the chief-magistracy, Mr. George Hyde had acted for a short
time as temporary alcalde.

Under the laws of Mexico, an alcalde had the entire control
of municipal affairs, and administered justice pretty much
according to his own ideas of the subject ; without being tied
down to precedents and formal principles of law. He could
make grants of building-lots within the town boundaries to
intending settlers ; and really in general, his right of administra-
tion (except in cases of importance, either civil or criminal),
seems to have been only limited by his power to carry his decrees
into effect. When the Americans seized the country, and until "
peace should be declared or a formal constitution adopted, they
were obliged to make use of the existing machineiy of local
government and the customary laws that regulated it. They
accordingly every where appointed alcaldes, or chief-magistrates
of towns and districts (it was of little consequence that they
were not laioyers, but only ministers, doctors, adventurers, men
of business, or of pleasure, and the like), and instructed them
to dispense justice in the best manner they could, paying always

180 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

as much regard as possible to the national laws of Mexico and
the provincial customs of California.

The laws of Mexico reserved to the governor of a province
the disposal of lands in towns within a certain number of feet
below high-water mark. By this time, from the number of ships
arrivino- in the Bay of San Francisco, it was becoming absolutely-
necessary that proper facilities should be given for the discharge
and the reception of cargoes, and that wharves and other land-
ing-places should be built across the great mud flat close upon
the beach at the town, and extended to deep water, so that ves-
sels could lie alongside. Upon the application therefore of the
alcalde, Mr. Bryant, the then governor of California, General
Kearny, in anticipation that the country was ultimately to be-
come American, formerly renounced, on the 10th of March, 1847,
in favor of the municipal authorities, the beach and water pro-
perty lying between the points known as the Kincon and Fort
Montgomery, upon the conditions stated in his decree. An ex-
tended survey and plan of the town had been previously com-
menced by Mr. Jasper O'Farrell, under the instructions of the
former alcalde, Mr. Bartlett, and were now continued so as to
embrace the beach and water property. When this survey was
completed, the shore lots, as distinguished from those on the
beach, were disposed of by private sale to applicants at a fixed
price put on them by the alcalde, agreeably to the Mexican cus-
toms. The plan of the city, as surveyed and mapped out by
Mr. O'Farrell, fronted the cove, and included the Telegraph Hill
and the Eincon. It extended about three quarters of a mile
from north to south, and two miles from east to west, and em-
braced about one and a half square miles. As the disposal of the
beach and water lots was a great event in the history of San
Francisco, we give a copy of the advertisement announcing the
sale, and which was published in the " California Star/' of the
town, and in the " Californian," of Monterey, in conformity with
the governor's decree : —

"Great Salk of Valuable Real Estate in the Town of San Fran-
cisco, Upper California.

" By the following decree of His Excellency, General S. W. Kearny, Go-
vernor of California, all the right, title and interest, of the United States, and

SALE OF BEACH AND WATER LOTS. 181

of the Territory of California, to the beach and water lots on the east front
of the town of San Francisco, have been granted, conveyed, and released, to
the people or corporate authorities of said town : —

'Decree of General Kearny.

' I, Brigadier-General S. "W. Kearny, Governor of California, by virtue of
authority in me vested by the President of the United States of America, do
hereby grant, convey, and release unto the town of San Francisco, the people,
or corporate authorities thereof, all the right, title, and interest of the Govern-
ment of the United States, and of the Territory of California, in and to the
beach and water lots on the east front of said town of San Francisco, included
between the points known as the Rincon and Fort Montgomery, except such
lots as may be selected for the use of the United States Government by the
senior officers of the army and navy now there: Provided, the said ground
hereby ceded shall be divided into lots, and sold by public auction to the
highest bidder, after three months notice previously given ; the proceeds of
said sale to be for the benefit of the town of San Francisco.

' Given at Monterey, capital of California, this 10th day of March, 1847,
and the 71st year of the independence of the United States.

'S. "W, Kearny.
^ Brigadier- General and Governor of California?

" In pursuance of and in compliance with the conditions of the foregoing
decree, all the ungranted tract of ground on the east front of the town of San
Francisco, lying and situated between Fort Montgomery and the Rincon. and
known as the water and beach lots (the reservations by the general and town
governments excepted), will be surveyed, and divided into convenient building
lots for warehouses and stores, and offered at public sale to the highest bidder
on Tuesday, the 29th day of June next, at ten o'clock, a. m. A plan of lots
in connection with a general map of the town will be made out and exhibited
on or before the day of sale.

'• Terms of sale, one fourth cash, — one fourth in six months, — one fourth
in twelve months, — and one fourth in eighteen months, the purchaser giving
approved security bearing an interest of ten per cent, per annum from the
day of sale.

" Other conditions wiU be made known on or before the day of sale.

" The site of the town of San Francisco is known to all navigators and
mercantile men acquainted with the subject, to be the most commanding com-
mercial position on the entire eastern coast of the Pacific Ocean, and the town
itself is, no doubt, destined to become the commercial emporium of the west-
ern side of the American continent. The property offered for sale is the most
valuable in, or belonging to the town, and the acquisition of it is an object of
deep interest to all mercantile houses in California and elsewhere engaged in
the commerce of the Pacific.

"Edwin Bryant,

^^ Alcalde, or Chief Magistrate, Town and District of San Francisco.
"San Francisco, Upper California, March \&th, 1847."

182 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

This great sale was subsequently postponed to Tuesday, the
20th of July following, by order of Mr. George Hyde, who was
then alcalde of the town. On the day last named the sale took
place, and lasted for three successive days. The lots were all
contained between the limits of low and high-water mark ; and
four-fifths of them were entirely covered with water at flood tide.
The size of the lots was sixteen and a half varas in width of front,
and fifty varas deep. A vara is a Spanish yard, and is equal to
about thirty-three and one-third inches of English measure.
There were about four hundred and fifty of these lots in all, of
which number two hundred were disposed of at the public sale
above mentioned. The attendance of buyers was pretty fair ;
and the prices given were very considerable (ranging from fifty to
one hundred dollars), considering the population and circumstan-
ces at the time. The price of some of the same lots now would
somewhat astonish the projectors of the town extension of those
days.

Curiously enough, we were in the act of finishing the last
sentence, when we were informed of the prices obtained by the
municipal authorities for other water lots which they were at this
time (26th December, 1853) disposing of likewise at public auc-
tion. These last lots were situated much farther out in the bay,
at places always covered with many feet of water, and measured
less than one-half the size of the old ones, being only twenty-five
feet in front by fifty-nine feet nine inches back. Yet they
brought prices varying from eight to sixteen thousand dollars !
Four small sized building blocks alone produced, in all, the enor-
mous sum of $1,200,000 ; thereby restoring the injured credit
of the city. Such is one contrast between 1847 and 1853 at San
Francisco !

But the principal part of the town was laid out in lots of fifty
varas square ; six of them making a building block, bounded on
the four sides by streets. In August, 1847, there had been
about seven hundred of this description of lots surveyed, of which
number nearly four hundred and fifty had been applied for and
disposed of by the alcalde at a fixed price, which now seems to
have been merely nominal. This price was twelve dollars -per lot.

SALES OF CITY PROPERTY. 183

and when the office fees for deed and recording (three dollars and
sixty-two and a half cents) were added, the total cost was less
than sixteen dollars. The conditions of sale were that the buyer
should fence in the ground, and build a house upon it within one
year ; failing which, the lot and improvements were to revert to
the town.

The south-eastern portion of the town was laid out in lots of
one hundred varas square, six of which also formed a building
block, bounded by regular streets at the four sides. The part of
the town formed by these last lots was supposed to be the least
valuable, and the lots themselves were expected to be the last
taken up and improved by purchasers. The price established by
law for these lots, which were four times the size of the fifty vara
ones, was only twenty-Jive dollars each, and when the deed and
recording fees were added (three dollars and sixty-two and a
half cents), the total cost was under tiaef)ity-nine dollars. In
August, 1847, about one hundred and thirty lots of this descrip-
tion were surveyed and laid out, of which number about seventy
had been sold. The conditions of the sale were similar to those
applicable to the fifty vara lots.

The proceeds of all these sales made up a considerable sura,
and saved the necessity of levying municipal taxes for a short
time. Real estate has advanced so rapidly in value since those
days, that it would only be ridiculous to compare the prices obtain-
able now with those fixed by the alcalde in 1847. In many cases,
however, an immense sum has been actually expended in first
bringing the ground into building condition.

In Mr. O'Farrell's plan, the streets are all regularly laid out
at right angles with each other, and are seventy-five and eighty
feet wide. One, however, is one hundred and ten feet in width.
The streets in the oldest part of the town — that portion surveyed
by Capt. Juan Vioget, as stated in the previous chapter — are
only about sixty feet broad.

There was at one time a municipal regulation, by which in-
dividuals were prevented from purchasing and holding more than
a single fifty or one hundred vara lot. The object of this appears
to have been to exclude speculators from jobbing in the lots, and

184 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

to insure their speedy improvement by the real owner. By pro-
curing lots, however, in the names of third parties, speculators
soon contrived to evade this regulation, and thus a few individu-
als became possessed of a large portion of the extension of the
town. The alcalde and town council therefore, shortly after-
wards, did away with this restriction upon purchasers.

CHAPTER IV.

1846-1847.

Captain Montgomery hoists the American flag on Portsmouth Square.— Arrival of the ship Brooklyn
from New York, with a large company of Mormon and other immigrant*. — Disputes among her
passengers, leading to the first jury trial in San Francisco.— Grand ball at the residence of Wm.
A. Leidesdorffi — Nautical fete given by Capt, Simmons. — Public reception of Com. Stockton. —
Attempts to establish a public school. — Name of town changed to San Francisco. — Number of
buildings and inhabitants.— Sulfering immigrants in the Sierra Nevada. — Trustees of the proposed
school chosen. — Delegates to represent the District of San Francisco in the new legislative coun-
cil—Arrival of Col. Stevenson and New York Volunteers.— Vessels in the harbor, 13th March,
1847.— "The California Star" adopts the name of San Francisco.— Mails estaUished between San
Francisco and San Diego. — Proposed erection of a church. — Grand illumination In honor of Gen.
Taylor's victory at Buena Vista.— Celebrations of Anniversaries. — Public meeting to consider the
claims of Col. Fremont to the office of Governor of the Territory.— Sale of bcich and water
lots. — Election of the first town council. — The first public school- Gales in San Francisco Bay.—
The first steamboat. — Thanksgiving Day. — Commercial Statistics.

Having got the new town of San Francisco fairly planned, and
given some general notion to the reader of the elementary com-
position of its inhabitants, shortly before the time when the dis-
covery of gold was altogether to change its appearance and char-
acter, we shall now turn back a little in the order of time, and
detail such few scattered notices of previous events as may seem
to US worthy of being recorded among the "Annals" of the
place.

1846.

July 8th. — The American flag was, on the morning of this day,
hoisted in the plaza, or public square of Yerba Buena, by Capt.
Montgomery, of the United States sloop-of-war Portsmouth, then
lying in the bay. Two days before Commodore Sloat had despatch-
ed a messenger to Capt. Montgomery, informing him of his in-
tention to raise the American flag at Monterey, and commanding
him to do the same in the northern parts of the province around
the Bay of San Francisco. This Montgomery did at the above

186 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

date, accompanied by a party of seventy sailors and marines,
and under a salute of twenty-one guns from the Portsmouth.
The plaza at this time received the name of Portsmouth Square,
and the street lying on the beach was called Blontgomery Street. It
may be mentioned that the American flag was raised at Sonoma
on the 10th of this month ; and soon afterwards at every princi-
pal place in the northern portion of California, where it was
generally beheld with tranquillity, if not with applause.

July 31st. — The ship " Brooklyn " arrived in San Francisco
Bay with a company of Mormon and other immigrants from New
York. On landing at Yerba Buena, they immediately set up
their tents among the sand-hills close to the beach. Very soon
disputes began to arise between the Mormon people and their
leaders, which ended in an open rupture, and a secession from
their body of several of the principal men. Mr. Samuel Brannan,
one of the most prominent of the party, was bitterly reviled, and
accused of sundry malversations in his office as president of the
association and as one of the managers of their funds. A jury
trial — the first ever seen in Cahfornia — was the consequence ; in
which Mr. Brannan was successful. These proceedings had the
effect of preventing the Mormons at this time from selecting lands
together and establishing themselves as a distinct community.
Soon afterwards many of them volunteered to serve in the war in
California, and joined Colonel Fremont's battalion.

September 8th. — The people of Yerba Buena, though still
few in number, and particularly deficient in the fair sex, seemed
determined to enjoy life while they might. A grand ball was
given on the evening of this day at the residence of Mr. William
A. Leidesdorff, by the officers in the service of the United States,
and by the citizens of the town ; when upwards of one hundred
CaHfornian and American ladies were present, with a large num-
ber of gentlemen. The dancing was very spirited, and kept up
till daylight. This was the first gathering of ladies and gentle-
men since the hoisting of the American flag. It was not long
allowed to be the only one ; for on the 18th of the same month,
we find Capt. Simmons, of the American whale-ship " Magnolia,"
giving a nautical /eYe on board his ship on the evening of that
day. One hundred and fifty family invitations were issued in

PUBLIC SCHOOL PROPOSED. 187

Yeiba Buena and around the bay. From repeated traces which
we find, of subsequent balls, grand dinners and suppers, and
other festive entertainments, it may be presumed that the
people of Yerba Buena were an exceedingly gay set. Business
was brisk, and the town thriving ; while the majority of the pop-
ulation being unmarried and without proper homes, it seemed
that some such kind of continual public diversion was the only
way in which they could unbend their minds from the contem-
plation of the " almighty dollar," and enjoy themselves.

October 5th. — This day. His Excellency, Commodore
Robert F. Stockton, the governor and commander-in-chief of
California, was honored with a public reception on the occasion
of a visit to San Francisco. At a preliminary meeting to make
the necessary arrangements, nearly every male adult of the place
had been present ; and on this day again all turned out in pro-
cession, to welcome the commodore. After the magistracy of the
district and foreign consuls, there came the committee of manage-
ment and the masters of the ships in port, concluding with a
long line of citizens. A military escort and band of music
attended on the occasion. General M. G. Vallejo, with several
other native gentlemen who had held office under the last govern-
ment, also appeared in the procession. We may mention that
the general (many of whose relations were American or English),
and some other leading Californians, had been early of opinion
that the best hopes for their country lay in immediate annexation
to the United States ; and, accordingly, on all occasions, when duty
permitted, they had been firm friends to the Americans. After
an appropriate address to Commodore Stockton, in which he was
complimented upon his efforts and success in reducing California,
and a suitable reply by him, the ceremom'es of the day, after a
long procession to the mission and back again, concluded by an
excellent collation, followed by a baU in the evening.

1847.

January. — Various attempts have been made of late to es-
tablish a public school. The " California Star " has weekly been
calling attention to this important subject. At last a committee
was appointed to ascertain the amount of subscriptions that

188 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

might be expected from the inhabitants, the cost of the building
and the salary of the teacher. Very unlike the usual proceedings
of the citizens, much time and talk seem to have been lost on this
subject ; nor was the object wished for obtained till upwards of
twelve months after this date.

It was in this month that the term Yerba Buena was changed
into San Francisco, by an ordinance of the alcalde, as stated in
the preceding chapter. There were only about fifty houses at
this period in the whole place, most of which were small single
story buildings, constructed chiefly of adobes. They were scat-
tered irregularly over the space lying between the foot of Tele-
graph Hill and Happy Valley. In April, of this year, the pop-
ulation numbered three hundred and seventy-five, without
reckoning the Indians, who were by this time few in numbej.

February 3d. — A public meeting was held on the evening of
this day to consider the alarming situation of a party of immi-
grants, who the previous year had attempted to reach California
by a new route through the Great Basin ; but who, in ignorance
of the country and other causes, had been so long delayed on the
journey, that they were caught among the winter snows of the
Sierra Nevada, where some of them had already perished, and
the remainder were in imminent peril. Not content, however,
with a mere expression of feeling, the meeting subscribed nearly
fifteen hundred dollars, and immediately fitted out an expedition
of twenty men, with an old mountaineer as guide, to proceed to
the mountains with supplies to the sufferers, and to assist in ex-
tricating them from danger. Other expeditions, from various
parts of the country, one of which was organized and altogether
maintained at the personal charges of the benevolent Capt. Sutter
of New Helvetia, likewise made the attempt to penetrate the
mountains, and carry glad tidings and safety to the unfortunates.
By these means those still alive were all rescued by the middle
of spring. The descriptions given by the survivors, and by such
members of the expeditions as were able to reach them, show a
state of things of the most painful and horrible character. Many
indeed had perished, through excessive cold and exposure to the
weather, bodily fatigue and sheer hunger. When the provisions
of the party were exhausted, and there was no strength nor oppor-

SUFFERING IMMIGRANTS.

189

tiinities left to kill game for lood, necessity forced them to feed
upon the dead bodies of their companions, two of whom (Indian
guides), a small detached party of the white people killed for
their support. Some even began to relish this kind of food, and
sought it in preference when other provisions might have been
obtained. One man, particularly, named Kiesburg, was suspected

Saffering Imtnigrants.

of foul murders to enable him to gratify this new and unnatural
propensity. Before the time of trial, however, was over, all were
glad enough of opportunities to partake of the horrid messes of
human blood and uncooked entrails.

Packed closely together to preserve animal heat, in miserably
small tents, with masses of snow beneath and around them, while
pierciug winds and snow blasts penetrated through all their de-
fences, and the temperature was much below the freezing point,
these unhappy beings for months saw only ultimate destruction
from cold and hunger before them. There were husbands and

190 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

wives, parents and children, all bearing the same physical suffer-
ing, and the elders likewise the mental anguish of thinking upon
the sad fate of their Httle ones and the females dependent on them.
Snow had begun to fall earlier than usual among the mountains,
and when the party had arrived at the eastern side of the great
pass across the Sierra Nevada, it lay too soft and deep for them
to proceed. To retrace their steps was impossible ; and, accord-
ingly, they were forced to encamp where they were, with all the
gloomy months of winter before them, unprepared, in every respect,
in clothing, food, and lodging. Soon despair filled every heart ;
while the stealthy approaches of starvation and the daily sight of
their misery brought insanity in their train. Many died laving
mad ; while the minds of all were in some sense affected by the
horror of their situation. By great efforts and much physical ex-
ertion some few scattered members of the company managed to
struggle through the snowy barrier, and slowly and painfully,
reached the nearest settlements on the western slope of the moun-
tains. The warm hearts of the settlers beat with generous emo-
tion on hearing the sad tidings from the few who had thus escaped,
and soon the whole country around San Francisco Bay was aroused
to carry relief to the people still among the snows.

The following notice of the appearance of the suffering immi-
grants when the relief party reached them, is taken from the " Cal-
ifornia Star " of the 10th April, 1847 :—

" The bones of those who had died and been devoured by the miserable ones
that still survived, were lying around their tents and cabins. Bodies of men,
women and children, with half the flesh torn from them, lay on every side. A
womau bat by the side of the body of her husband, who had ju3t diei, cutting
out his tongue ; the heart she had already taken out, broiled and eat ! The
daughter was seen eating the flesh of the father — the mother that of her chil-
dren — children that of father and mother. The emaciated, wild and ghastly
appearance of the survivors added horror to the scene. Language cannot de-
scribe the awful change that a few weeks of dire suffering had wrought in the
minds of the wretched and piteous beings. Those who but one month before
would have shuddered at the thought of eating human flesh, or of killing their
companions and relatives to preserve their own hves, now looked upon the
opportunity by these acts afforded them of escaping the most dreadful of deaths,
as a providential interference in their behalf Calculations were coldly made,
as they sat gloomily around their camp fires, for the next and succeeding meals.
Various expedients were devised to prevent the dreadful crime of murder ; but

SUFFERING IMMIGRANTS. 191

they finally resolved to kill those who had the least claims to longer exist-
ence. Just at this moment, however, as if by divine interposition, some of
them died, which afforded the rest temporary relief. Some sunk into the arms
of death cursing God for their miserable fate, while the last whisperings of
others were prayers and songs of praise to the Almighty.

" After the first few deaths, but the one all-absorbing thought of individual
self preservation prevailed. The fountains of natural affection were dried up.
The chords that once vibrated with connubial, parental and filial affection were
rent asunder, and each one seemed resolved, without regard to the fate of oth-
ers, to escape from the impending calamity. Even the wild hostile mountain
Indians, who once visited their camps, pitied them ; and instead of pursuing
the natural impulse of their hostile feelings to the whites, and destroying
them, as they easily could have done, divided their own scanty supply of food
with them.

" So changed had the immigrants become, that when the party sent out
arrived with food, some of them cast it aside, and seemed to prefer the putrid
human flesh that still remained. The day before the party arrived, one of the
immigrants took a child of about four years of age in bed with him, and de-
voured the whole before morning, and the next day eat another about the same
age before noon.

" It is thought that several more of these unfortunate people might have
been saved, but for their determination not to leave their property. Some of
them who started, loaded themselves with their money and other efifects to
such an extent that they sunk under them, and died on the road."

It was expected that this calamity would have had a serious
influence in deterring future immigration into California from the
United States. But the discovery of gold immediately afterwards
destroyed all calculations on the subject, and sent headlong tens
of thousands across the plains and over the Rocky and Snowy Moun-
tains where the above party had suffered so much, to encounter
in some cases nearly the same amount of misery as they. We
have seen that the town of San FrancioCu nobly did its duty on
the lamentable occasion. Of the eighty individuals who composed
the party, of whom forty-eight were males and thirty-two females,
thirty-six perished. Of these, twenty-eight were males, and only
eight females. The story of their sutferings and end make a strik-
ing incident in the history of California, and is worthy of being
recorded in the " Annals of San Francisco," if it were only to
mark the liberal exertions made by its citizens in their behalf.

February 21st. — Dr. F. Forgeaud, C. L. Ross, Dr. J. Town-
send, J. Serrine and W. H. Davis, were appointed trustees of the
proposed school.

192 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

March 4th. — A meeting of citizens was held this day to con-
sider the propriety of resolving, that the District of San Francisco
should be fitly represented by one member in the new legislative
council, convened by the governor, until a proper constitution
should be obtained for the Territory ; when it was resolved to that
effect, and Mr. J. Gr. T. Dunleavy was chosen by a majority of
votes, to be representative accordingly. It appeared that the
legislative council, recently organized by Com, Stockton, consisted
of seven individuals, four of whom were Californians, one English-
man and two Americans ; while it was an undoubted fact that
the majority of the white population was from the United States,
and the constant immigration was daily increasing this majority.
Similar meetings complaining of the insufficient American repre-
sentation in the council were held at Sonoma, Santa Clara, and
other places, at which American delegates were chosen to repre-
sent their interests, the governor being entreated by these meet-
ings to accept of their choice, and formally to re-appoint their
nominees as members of the legislative council. It does not ap-
pear that any notice was taken of these proceedings, or that the
" people's choice " became also His Excellency's. The latter alone
had the complete control of the Government — which, so long as
war with Mexico lasted, was necessarily a militaiy one — and ap-
pointed only such officers to assist him in the same as suited his
personal views of the subject.

March 6th. — The ship Thomas H. Perkins arrived from New
York, bringing Col. Stevenson of the New York volunteers, and
the first detachment of his regiment. With few exceptions, the
volunteers were mechanics and single men; and as they were enlist-
ed to serve during the war, and when peace came, to be disbanded
only in California, it was expected that they would nearly all re-
main as permanent settlers in the country. The colonel himself
and all his officers, had likewise expressed their wish and deter-
mination to make California their home after the termination of
hostilities.

March 13th. — There were in the harbor at this date six
square-rigged vessels, viz. : the United States ship Cyane, the
ships Moscow, Vandaha, Barnstable, Thomas H. Perkins, and the
brig Euphemia.

CELEBRATION OF ANNIVERSARIES. 193

March 20th. — The local newspaper, the " California Star,"
is pleased, at last, to acquiesce, very unwillingly, in the change of
name from Yerba Buena to San Francisco ; and to-day, for the
first time, dates its leader from the latter. This change seems
not to have gratified every party. Mr. Semple, of the Monterey
" Californian," and Mr. T. 0. Larkin, who had jointly founded
the new city of Francisca, on the Strait of Carquinez, afraid lest
their rising town should be confounded and lost in the name and
fame of San Francisco, were forced to change the appellation of
the former to Benicia. In those days, Benicia was anticipated by
many to be the great future rival of San Francisco. Later times
have shown how unnecessary fear was on the subject.

April. — Semi-monthly mails established between San Fran-
cisco and San Diego and intermediate places.

Mat 6th. — A public meeting was held to consider the pro-
priety of erecting a church in the. town ; when a committee
was appointed for the purpose of taking steps to procure the erec-
tion.

May 28th. — First grand illumination in San Francisco. This
was in honor of General Taylor's great victory over the Mexicans
at Buena Vista. Every building in the town, of frame or adobe,
and shanty itself, shone with as much lustre as an unlimited al-
lowance of oil and tallow could bestow. Fire-arms cracked, and
bonfires blazed on all sides.

July. — Two great anniversaries were held this month, in a
becoming manner, at San Francisco, viz. : the independence-day
of the United States, on the 4th, — and the independence or con-
quest-day of California, on the 7th ; on which latter day, in the
previous year, the American flag had been hoisted at Monterey by
Com. Sloat. We have already had occasion to notice the cele-
bration of a " glorious fourth," just eleven years before, when Mr.
Leese had erected the first solid building (his house being of frame,
while Capt. Kichardson's, erected the preceding year, was only a
canvas-covered tent), that was seen in Yerba Buena. Then the
country was Mexican, and while the guests were chiefly of that
nation, the flags of both Mexico and the United States floated
amicably together. Now — only eleven years later — the country
was American, and her flag alone was displayed, while the vast

194 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

majority of those who shared in the festival was of that nation.
What a wonderful change these few years had made in the char-
acter and prospects of the country ! As before we had occasion
to chronicle Mr. Leese's musicians, his six pounders, his dinner,
drinks, dancing and general festivities ; so we may here say, that
the day of 1847 was celebrated in a similar manner, under salutes
from men of war in the bay, and the presidio, when people on
shore processed to musical strains, and when flags waved, and
much powder was burned, and the citizens speechified and hur-
rahed, toasted, drank, danced and made merry as is usual on
such occasions. The 7th was observed in a similar fashion.

July 14th. — On this day was held a public meeting of a large
number of citizens to consider the conduct of Col. Fremont in Cal-
ifornia, and his claims to be chosen by the President of the Uni-
ted States as Governor of the Territory. It appears that after
the colonel's volunteer regiment of " mounted riflemen " was
disbanded, there had been no money forthcoming for the arrears
of pay, or even to reimburse the heavy pecuniary loss and outlay
which many of the officers and men had incurred. Governor
Kearny, and his successor. Governor Mason, would not, or could
not, make such payments from the territorial exchequer, or ra-
ther grant available warrants upon the national treasury without
the previous sanction of Congress. They had accepted a country
conquered partly by these very volunteers, and had entered upon
possession of its revenues, and yet would not, or cruelly delayed
to pay the necessary cost. Col. Fremont therefore appeared, in
the mean time, the only debtor ; but as it was impossible that he
could pretend to be able to make payment of the very large sums
disbursed on account of the war in California, and for the benefit
solely of the United States, much personal dissatisfaction was ex-
pressed against him by all who had suftered in this way, and by
many sympathizing friends, especially in the northern districts of
the country. In the southern quarters, from whence he had drawn
few or no volunteers, and owed therefore neither pay nor supplies,
the colonel had become exceedingly popular ; and this although he
had been a successful invader. In these parts of the country a
petition had been got up and was numerously signed, praying
Congress to appoint him Governor of California. The same peti-

ELECTION OF A TOWN COUNCIL. 195

tion being taken northwards for the approval and signatures of
the Americans around San Francisco Bay, excited much angry
feeling on the subject. Col. Fremont was in danger of losing all
his recent popularity, and in the rage and injustice of the moment,
was even denied many of the claims, formerly advanced and else-
where allowed, to the heroic part he had taken in the conquest
of the country. At the meeting above mentioned, a committee
of eight gentlemen was formed to investigate and publish all re-
liable instances of his misconduct ; and meantime, the meeting
protested against his being chosen as their governor by Congress.
It may just farther be stated on this subject, that Congress, a
considerable time afterwards, allotted a large sum to satisfy all
claims against Fremont on account of the war in California, and
which naturally fell upon the United States as accepting the coun-
try reduced to their hands.

July 20th. — Beginning of the great sale of beach and water
lots in San Francisco, as detailed in a preceding chapter.

July 28th. — The alcalde, Mr. George Hyde, selected six gen-
tlemen to assist him in disposing of the great and daily accumu-
lation of mimicipal business. These were the ayuntamiento, or
" town council," as they were called, and were to remain in office
until the governor should think fit formally to cause an election
to take place among the citizens to fill their places. According-
ly, on

August 15th, Governor Mason issued an ordinance addressed
to Mr. Hyde, in regard to such an election. As it explains the
manner in which the municipal government was carried on in those
days, we quote the principal portion of it : —

" There is wanted in San Francisco an eflBcient town government, more so
than is in the power of an alcalde to put in force. There may be soon expect-
ed a large number of whalers in your bay, and a large increase of your popu-
lation by the arrival of immigrants. It is therefore highly necessary that you
should at an early day have an efficient town police, proper town laws, town
officers, &c., for enforcement of the laws, for the preservation of order, and for
the proper protection of persons and property.

" I therefore desire that you call a town meeting for the election of six
persons, who when elected shall constitute the town council, and who in con-
junction with the alcalde shall constitute the town authorities until the end
of the year 1848.

196 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

" All the municipal laws and regulations will be framed by the council,
but executed by the alcalde in his judicial capacity as at present.

" The first alcalde will preside at all meetings of the council, but shall have
no vote, except in cases where the votes are equally divided.

" The town council (not less than four of whom shall constitute a quorum
for the transaction of business), to appoint all the town officers, such as trea-
surer, constables, watchmen, &c., and to determine their pay, fees, &c.

" The treasurer to enter into ample and sufficient bonds, conditioned for
the faithful performance of his duties : the bonds to be fully executed to the
satisfaction of the council before the treasurer enters upon his duties.

" The second alcalde shall, in case of the absence of the first alcalde, take
his place and preside at the council, and there perform all the proper functions
of the first alcalde.

" No soldier, sailor or marine, nor any person who is not a bona fide resi-
dent of the town shall be allowed to vote for a member of the town council."

In pursuance of the foregoing order, Mr. Hyde fixed the elec-
tion for six members for a town council, upon

September 13th. — We give the names of the gentlemen elect-
ed, along with the names of those who had previously been ap-
pointed by the alcalde, as an interim council : —

Councillors elected. No. of votes. Councillors chosen by Alcalde.

William Glover, 126 William A. Leidesdorff.

WiUiam D. M. Howard, 114 Robert A. Parker.

William A. Leidesdorff, 109 Jose P. Thompson.

E. P. Jones, 88 Pedro T. Sherreback.

Robert A. Parker, 74 John Rose.

William S. Clark, 72 Benjamin R. Buckelew.

The town council chose Mr. Leidesdorff their treasurer. The
first alcalde was Mr. George Hyde ; and the second, Dr. T, M.
Leavenworth. Immediately after the formation of the town
council, its members entered with spirit upon the duties of their
office. They passed a midtitude of laws affecting the general
interests of the town, regulating the streets and buildings, the
licensing and character of business allowed, appointed constables,
&c. Soon, therefore, the place became to assume a steady pro-
gressive appearance, and some fair sort of order was every where
established. This council may be said to have had every thing
to do to found the city. Our work would swell beyond all rea-
sonable limits, should we attempt to name every pubHc act of
importance — when nearly all they did was new and of vital con-

THE FIRST THANKSGIVING DAT. 197

sequence to the well-being of San Francisco — performed by this
council. We can only, therefore, give an occasional notice in
future of their proceedings. One, however, of their earliest reso-
lutions may just be glanced at, viz. : the rescinding of those con-
ditions in the sale of town lands, which made it imperative on the
buyer to fence in and erect a building upon his lot within a year
after the purchase. One effect of this was certainly to encourage
speculation, since jobbers in lots could now safely hold an inde-
finite number, when not obliged to erect buildings upon them
within a limited time,

September 24th. — Messrs. Leidesdorfi", Glover and Clark
were appointed by the town council a committee to take measures
for the estabhshment of a pubhc school. Various resolutions
were subsequently passed by the council on this subject, and after
much pubhc agitation, at length, on 17th March, 1848, a teacher
was appointed, with a salary of one thousand dollars ; and on the
3d of April following, Mr. Thomas Douglas formally opened the
long delayed and much needed school, for the instruction of the
youth of both sexes. This was the first public seminary estab-
lished in San Francisco.

October 20th. — A severe Noi-tlier visited the harbor which
did considerable damage to the shipping. Similar furious gales
have since been experienced every year, when more or less loss
has been occasioned to the shipping and to the wharves them-
selves. The exposure to excessive winds from the north and south-
east is one of the most serious drawbacks to the safety and con-
venience of the port. The extension of the city, in late years,
over the waters of Yerba Buena Cove, has increased the liabihty
of vessels to damage during the prevalence of these winds.

November 15th. — " The Steamboat/' — being the only one it
had no distinct name, — performed an experimental trip round
" Wood Island." This was but a small concern which had been
brought by Mr. Leidesdorfi" from Sitka. It was the first vessel of
the kind in San Francisco Bay, and was quite a pet or plaything
in its way. Two days afterwards " the steamboat " sailed for
Santa Clara. In February following it was lost in a Norther.

November 18th. — The first " Thanksgiving Day " celebra-
ted in New England style. Public worship was performed at the

198 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO,

house of Mr. Lincoln. The " Sons of New England " afterwards
had a public dinner.

December 31st. — The following statistics show the extent of
the commerce of San Francisco for the three months ending this
day : —

Total value of exports, $49,597.53 ; imports, $53,589.73.
Of the amount of exports, $30,353.85, represent the native pro-
duce of California, and were shipped as follows : — To the Sand-
wich Islands, $320 ; Peru, $21,448.35; Ma zatlan, $560 ; Sitka,
$7,285.50 ; Tahiti, $700. The other exports, amounting to
$19,343.68, were the produce of foreign countries, and were ship-
ped as foUows :— $2,060 to the United States ; $12,442.18 (of
which $11,340 were coined gold and silver), to the Sandwich Isl-
ands ; and $4,831.50 to Mazatlan. The imports came from the
following countries : — United States, $6,790.54 ; Oregon, $7,-
701.59 ; Chili, $3,676.44 ; Sandwich Islands, $31,740.73 ; Sit-
ka, $2,471.32 ; Bremen, $550.54 ; and Mexico, $160.

CHAPTER V.

1848.

Resolutions concerning gambling. — Public sale of City Property. — Price Current published. — Condi-
tion and population of the town. — Overland express to Independence, Mo. — George Hyde, al-
calde, resigned, and succeeded by Dr. J. Townsend. — Death of Wm. A. LeidesdorfF. — Discovery
of gold, and immediate effects. — Illumination in celebration of the peace between Mexico and
the United States. — Dr. T. M. Leavenworth elected alcalde. — First brick house. — Public meeting
to regulate the price of gold dust. — First square-rigged vessel discharged at Broadway wharf. —
Judicial limits of the town. — Eev. T. D. Hunt chosen chaplain. — First issue of the " Star and
Cahfornian." — State of the markets. — Public meeting to organize a Provisional Government. —
New town council elected. — Election declared invalid. — Duties collected at the Custom-House

January 11th. — Stringent resolutions were passed by the
council regarding gambling. This vice had been growing in
popular favor, and at this period and for years afterwards, be-
came one of the leading characteristics of the inhabitants. Be-
sides heavily fining parties engaged in gambling, one of the
resolutions authorized the authorities " to seize for the benefit of
the town all the money found on a gambling table where cards
are played." If this had been in force a short time afterwards,
when the gold discoveries had enriched thousands, and the reck-
less miners hurried to San Francisco to spend their gains in the
great public gaming saloons of the period, the town in a single
night would have become wealthy. But at the next meeting of
the council these resolutions were all repealed.

March 5th. — A great public sale took place by the town of
some of its real estate. The preferable lots had already been
secured by speculators, under the old regulations, at a nominal
price, by private arrangement with the alcalde. The prices ob-
tained at this sale do not show much advance in the value of
town property, since the lots only brought from sixteen to fifty
dollars, averaging about twenty-two dollars and fifty cents each
for fifty-two lots. It is certain, however, that the value of desi-

200 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

rable locations was immensely higher than this ; and the citizens,
from their eagerness in getting up houses, and the high prices of
labor and building materials, seem to have been satisfied on this
subject. The population of the town was fast improving.

March 15th. — As a sign of the times, a weekly wholesale
price-current was first published in San Francisco in the columns
of the " Californian" of this date. In the " California Star," of
the 18th instant, likewise appeared a similar document, and re-
marks on the state of the market, for the first time.

About this period the population of the town was ascertained
by the Board of School Trustees, in canvassing the place for edu-
cational purposes, to be, 575 male and 177 female adults, and 60
children of ages to attend school, making a total of 812. Adding
the number of infants and children still too young to attend
school, the whole number of inhabitants amounted to about 850.
The buildings of all kinds numbered 200. There were two large
hotels in the place, besides boarding and public houses, and
houses attached to ten-pin alleys, billiard saloons, &c. ; so that
the town was becoming one of some consequence, and was assum-
ing the pretensions and attractions of older, wealthier and more
populous communities. Two wharves were in the course of con-
struction, and extensive stores and warehouses had been erected.
There were twelve mercantile houses established, consisting of
agencies for large firms in the East and in the Sandwich Islands,
auction and commission houses, and importers from the United
States direct. The facilities for discharging ships and filling
them anew with cargo, were rapidly increasing. There was
much bustle, and even enthusiasm among the inhabitants, which
promised a flattering future to the town. Current expenses were
too high to prevent immediate fortunes being made ; still most
persons in business beheved they were laying the firm foundations
of early wealth.

April 1st.— The "Cahfornia Star Express" left San Fran-
cisco, to proceed overland to Independence, Mo. The passage
was guaranteed to be accomplished in sixty days. Fifty cents
was charged as the postage on single letters.

April 3d. — The first pubhc school was opened. Dr. J.
Townsend was also sworn in before the council, as first alcalde,

EFFECTS OF THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD. 201

vice George Hyde, resigned. Serious complaints had been made
in regard to Mr. Hyde's conduct in office, which, being rei^orted
to Governor Mason, led to a formal inquiry on the subject.
Some nine or ten charges of a criminal nature were made against
the former alcalde, only two of which were ultimately held to be
established by proof. These, in the whole circumstances of the
case, seemed insufficient to warrant His Excellency to remove
Mr. Hyde from office. But as popular clamor was somewhat
loud and vexatious on the matter, that gentleman thought fit to
resign his trust.

May 18th. — Mr. Wm. A. Leidesdorff died of the brain
fever. This gentleman was the United States vice-consul at San
Francisco, and was closely connected with all the interests of the
place. His decease was much regretted by the town's people, a
large number of whom attended in his funeral procession. All
places of business and entertainment were closed on the occasion,
the flags at the barracks and of the vessels in port hung at half-
mast during the day ; while minute guns were fired as the burial
train moved on towards the Mission Dolores, in the church-
yard of which place the body was interred. Mr. Leidesdorff was
of Danish extraction, and of the Roman Catholic religion. He
had been nearly nine years in business in San Francisco, and
was about thirty-six years old. The property he left was of con-
siderable value at the time of his death, (though heavily bur-
dened with debts ;) while, as much of it consisted of real estate,
on which the growing city afterwards spread, its value at this
date is immense. The deceased left no legal heirs on the spot,
and his estate was administered by Mr. Wm. D. M. Howard,
under authority of the alcalde, for behoof of all concerned.
Much litigation, among parties claiming to be administrators, or
heirs or assignees of heirs of the deceased, afterwards resulted,
which it is believed is not yet fairly ended. The law proceedings
and history of the estate generally form quite an event in the
annals of the town, and deserve a more particular notice, which
will be given in a subsequent chapter.

The promising state of things in San Francisco shortly be-
fore described was now to be suddenly checked by means which,
unpromising at first, ultimately led to the most extraordinary

202 AXXALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

prosperity in the city. Early in the spring of tkis year, occa-
sional intelligence had been received of the finding of gold in
large quantities among the foot hills of the Sierra Nevada, the
particulars of which discovery we have already given. Small
parcels of the precious metal had also been forwarded to San
Francisco, while visitors from the mines, and some actual diggers
arrived, to tell the wonders of the region and the golden gains of
those engaged in exploring and working it. In consequence of
such representations, the inhabitants began gradually, in bands
and singly, to desert their previous occupations, and betake
themselves to the American Kiver and other auriferous parts of
the great Sacramento valley. Labor, from the deficiency of
hands, rose rapidly in value, and soon all business and work, ex-
cept the most urgent, was forced to be stopped. Seamen deserted
from their ships in the bay and soldiers from the barracks.
Over all the country the excitement was the same. Neither
threats, punishment nor money could keep men to their most
solemn engagements. Gold was the irresistible magnet that drew
human souls to the place where it lay, rudely snapping asunder
the feebler ties of affection and duty. Avarice and the i8t\'erween-
ing desire to be suddenly rich, from whence sprang the hope and
moral certainty of being so, grew into a disease, and the infection
spread on all sides, and led to a general migration of every class
of the community to the golden quarters. The daily laborer,
who had worked for the good and at the command of another,
for one or two dollars a day, could not be restrained from flying
to the happy spot where he could earn six or ten times the
amount, and might possibly gain a hundred or even a thousand
times the sum iu one lucky day's chance. Then the life, at
worst, promised to be one of continual adventure and excitement,
and the miner was his own master. While this was the case
with the common laborer, his employer, wanting his services, sud-
denly found his occujDation at an end ; while shopkeepers and the
like, dependent on both, discovered themselves in the same pre-
dicament. The glowing tales of the successful miners all the
while reached their ears, and threw their own steady and large
gains comparatively in the shade. They therefore could do no
better, in a pecuniary sense even, for themselves, than to hasten

EFFECTS OF THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD.

203

after their old servants, and share in their new labor and its ex-
traordinary gains, or pack up their former business stock, and
travelling with it to the mines, open their new stores and shops
and stalls, and dispose of their old articles to the fortunate dig-
gers, at a rise of five hundred or a thousand per cent.

Eush for the gold regions.

In the month of May it was computed that, at least one
hundred and fifty people had left San Francisco, and every day
since was adding to their number. Some were occasionally re-
turning from the auriferous quarter ; but they had little time to
stop and expatiate upon what they had seen. They had hastily
come back, as they had hastily gone away at first, leaving their
household and business to waste and ruin, now to fasten more
properly their houses, and remove goods, family and all, at once
to the gold region. Their hurried movements, more even than
the words they uttered, excited the curiosity and then the eager
desire of others to accompany them. And so it was. Day after

204 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

day the bay was covered with launches filled with the inhabitants
and their goods, hastening up the Sacramento. This state of
matters soon came to a head ; and master and man alike hur-
ried to the placeres, leaving San Francisco, like a place where
the jilague reigns, forsaken by its old inhabitants, a melancholy
solitude.

On the 29th of May the " Californian " published a fly-sheet,
apologizing for the future non-issue of the paper, until better
days came, when they might expect to retain their servants for
some amount of remuneration, which at present was impossible,
as all, from the " subs " to the " devil," had indignantly rejected
every offer, and gone ofi" to the diggings. " The whole country,"
said the last editorial of the paper, "from San Francisco to
Los Angeles, and from the sea shore to the base of the Sierra
Nevada, resounds with the sordid cry of gold ! gold ! ! GOLD ! ! !
— while the field is left half planted, the house half built, and
every thing neglected but the manufacture of shovels and pick-
axes, and the means of transportation to the spot where one man
obtained one hundred and twenty-eight dollars' worth of the real
stuff in one day's washing, and the average for all concerned is
twenty dollars per diem ! "

On the 14th of June the " California Star " likewise ceased.
In the explanatory fly-sheet, the editor simply and sadly said,
that his paper " could not be made by magic, and the labor of
mechanism was as essential to its existence as to all other arts."
And as every body was deserting him, why, the press and the pa-
per stopped together — that was all.

July 15th. — The "Californian" revives, and promises an
occasional paper, if that can be managed. It gives this day the
first intelligence of the French revolution, under the alarming
head, " The whole world at war ! " though little did the gold-
diggers and the speculative traders in San Francisco care about
that. It chronicles likewise the observance of another " slorious
fourth " which was held in the town as spiritedly as the few re-
maining inhabitants could manage. The rest of the news, and
many of the advertisements were about the mines and gold.
The city itself afibrded few items of intelligence, except the con-
tinued desertion of the place, and the high and increasing prices

PRICE OF GOLD DUST ESTABLISHED. 205

of labor. The council had not met for two months ; and its
members, with many officials of the town, had all " gone to the
diggings."

July 25th. — Governor Mason issued a proclamation calling
on the people to assist the authorities in apprehending deserters,
who had now become very numerous from both the army and
navy service.

July 31st. — His Excellency consents to receive gold dust in
payment of duties at the custom-house at a low rate, with right
of redemption of the whole by the payer, within one hundred
and eighty days, or of the half within ninety days, upon giving
the proper amount in gold or silver coin. Several public meet-
ings have been held on this subject, in which the community was
much interested.

August 11th. — A second grand illumination. This time it
was in celebration of the peace between Mexico and the United
States, the official news of which reached Monterey on the 6th
instant. In the early part of the day guns were fired on all
sides, from the presidio and barracks, ships in harbor, and by
every youngster on shore who happily owned, or could buy, bor-
row, or steal a little gunpowder and a fire-arm, from a musket
to a rusty key with a priming-hole filed across the barrel. A
cavalcade of citizens proceeded through the streets. In the
evening, the windows of every house remaining inhabited were
illuminated, many of them brilliantly. Tar barrels and bonfires
blazed on all sides. Squibs, crackers and pistols boomed ofi" in
harmony with the general rejoicing.

August 29th. — Dr. T. M. Leavenworth elected first alcalde.

September 6th.— The first brick house was erected by Mel-
ius & Howard, at the corner of Montgomery and Clay streets.
This was the second brick building erected in Upper California,
one having been previously constructed at Monterey.

September 9th. — A great public meeting was held to con-
sider how best to fix the price of gold dust at a certain reason-
able amount, to pass as a currency in the country, during the
scarcity of coin, and until a branch mint could be established.
This was supposed to be the largest meeting that had ever as-
sembled in San Francisco, most of the old inhabitants having

206

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

returned for a season from the mines. Dr. T. M. Leavenworth
was called to the chair, and Mr. J. D. Hoppe appointed secre-

San Francisco, Winter of 1S48.

tary. The meeting unanimously decided and resolved that six-
teen dollars an ounce was a fair price for gold dust, and that it
ought to be taken in all business transactions at that rate. A
committee was also appointed to urge upon Congress the imme-
diate establishment of a branch mint at San Francisco.

This month a square-rigged vessel (the brig Belfast, from
New York,) first discharged a cargo at Broadway wharf The
price of goods consequently fell twenty-five •per cent., while real
estate rose from fifty to one hundred per cent. A vacant lot at
the corner of Montgomery and Washington streets was offered
the day previous to the opening of the wharf for five thousand
dollars, but there were no buyers. The next day the same lot
sold readily at ten thousand dollars. This shows how property
was beginning to be affected by the improvement of the town.

October 3d. — At a second election, Dr. T. M. Leavenworth
was again chosen first alcalde. B. R. Buckelew and Barton
Mowrey were also elected town councillors. One hundred and
fifty-eight votes were polled.

STATE OF THE MARKETS. 207

October 9th. — First meeting of the town council since May
last. At an adjourned meeting held on the 11th, it was resolved
that the limits of the town for the administration of justice
should be as follows, viz. : " That the line shall commence at the
mouth of Creek Guadalupe, where it empties into the Bay of
San Francisco, following the course of said stream to its head
waters ; from thence a due west line to the Pacific Ocean ;
thence northwards along the coast to the inlet to the harbor of
the bay ; thence eastwardly, through the middle of the s'aid inlet
into the Bay of San Francisco, and embracing the entire anchor-
age ground from the inlet to the mouth of the Creek Guada-
lupe."

November 1st, — No regular church had hitherto been estab-
lished ; but nearly every Sunday, for a long period back, occa-
sional religious services had been performed by clergymen of
various denominations ; or, in their absence, by some serious
minded layman. This day, the Rev. T. D. Hunt, who had been
invited from Honolulu, was chosen Protestant chaplain to the
citizens, and an annual salary of two thousand five hundred
dollars appropriated to him, to be defrayed out of the subscrip-
tions of various town's people. Divine worship on Sundays to
take place in the Public Institute, (school-house,) Portsmouth
Square.

November 18th. — The " Californian," havino- been bought
up by the proprietors of the " California Star," a new paper,
similar in appearance to both these, and virtually a continuation
of the latter, which had stopped five months before, was issued
this day under the title, " The Star and Californian."

December. — The markets, as might be expected, were very
high about this time, though prices fluctuated considerably. On
the 1st of this' month, flour was twenty-seven dollars a barrel,
beef twenty, pork sixty ; butter was ninety cents a pound, and
cheese seventy. Two weeks later, flour sold at from twelve to
fifteen dollars a barrel, while other ai'ticles had fallen in propor-
tion. Brandy was in demand at eight dollars a gallon, and gold
dust dull of sale at ten dollars and a half an ounce.

December 12th. — The public school, after having been closed
for many months during the gold-mania, re-opened. Rates of
tuition were announced to be eigjht dollars a term.

208 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

Decembee 21st and 23d. — Great public meetings were held,
(Dr. Townsend in the chair,) regarding the propriety, and grow-
ino- necessity of immediately organizing a provisional government.
For some time back, much public agitation had existed on this
subject. The frequent murders and other daring outrages com-
mitted of late in different parts of the country, especially at the
mines, while there was no proper legal protection for the lives and
property of the citizens, had forced the people to conclude that
Congress had been trifling with them in delaying the long pro-
posed constitution — that there was no more time to wait — and
therefore that instant steps should be taken to establish a form
of government for themselves. At these meetings resolutions
were j^assed to the above effect, and five delegates appointed to
be chosen at a subsequent public meeting, to represent the town
and district at a general convention to be held at San Jose, in
March next, for the purpose of framing a form of constitution.
A meeting to the same effect had been held at San Jose on the
11th instant, which had fixed the assembling of the convention
so early as the 2d of January following, and similar meetings
were beginning to be called all over the country.

December 27th. — The following gentlemen were elected as
town council, or ayuntamiento, for 1849, viz. : Stephen C. Harris,
Wm. D. M. Howard, George C. Hubbard, Kobert A. Parker,
Thomas J. Eoach, John Sirrine, and John Townsend — the last
of whom was chosen president. The number of votes polled was
three hundred and forty-seven.

December 28th, 29th and 30th. — Various meetings were
held of the old town council, which ended in its resolving that
the election of the 27th instant was invalid, owing to the votes
of a small number of unqualified parties having been received ;
and a new election was ordered for the 15 th proximo.

The duties collected at the custom-house, during 1848, were
as follows : — First quarter, |1 1,931 ; second quarter, $8,835 ;
third quarter, $74,827 ; fourth quarter, $100,480. The value
of imported goods during the year was about one million of dol-
lars. Coin was also imported to about the same amount. Gold
dust to the value of two millions of dollars was exported in the
last six months of 1848. A few years later as great a quantity
was exported by every semi-monthly mail.

CHAPTER VI.

1848-1849.

€r«neral Effects of the Gold Discoveries.

While San Francisco, like so many other parts of the country,
was forsaken in the manner described in the foregoing chapter,
the neio'hhorhood of the American River was overflowino- with
people, all busily engaged in gold hunting. The miners by the
middle of May were estimated to be about two thousand. In
another month they had increased probably to three ; and, two
months later, their number was supposed to be about six thou-
sand. From that period the arrival of persons at the different
auriferous districts, which were known to extend over a large
space of territory, was constant ; but no sufficient materials
existed to form a correct opinion of their total number. The
vast majority of all the laboring classes in the country had cer-
tainly deserted their former pursuits, and had become miners,
while a great many others — merchants and their clerks, shop-
keepers and their assistants, lawyers, surgeons, officials in every
department of the State, of the districts and in the towns, run-
away seamen and soldiers, and a great variety of nondescript
adventurers — likewise began the search for gold. The miners
were by no means exclusively American. They consisted of
every kindred and clan. There were already tame Indians,
Mexicans from Sonora, Kanakas from the Sandwich Islands,
settlers from Oregon, mixed with the usual dash of Spanish,
British, German and French adventurers that had for a long
time existed in California. Later months were to bring other
Mexicans, Chinese, Peruvians, and Chilians, and all these before
the great impending immigration of Americans and Europeans.
14

210 ANNALS or SAN FRANCISCO.

At first the general gains of the miners, though great, were
little compared to what shortly afterwards were collected. But
any jiositive statement on this matter is naturally subject to
error, since none could personally know more than what was
taking place around the scene of his own operations, or where he
was immediately travelling. If, however, we compare different
accounts, and endeavor to form from them something like a fair
averajre, we midit find that from ten to fifteen dollars worth of
gold dust was about the usual proceeds of an ordinary day's
hard work. But while that might have been the average, people
listened more to the individual instances of extraordinary success.
Well authenticated accounts described many known persons as
averaging from one to two hundred dollars a day for a long
period. Numerous others were said to be earning even from
five to eight hundred dollars a day. A piece of four pounds in
weight was early found. If, indeed, in many cases, a man with
a pick and pan did not easily gather some thirty or forty dollars
worth of dust in a single day, he just moved off to some other
place which he supposed might be richer. When the miners
knew a little better about the business and the mode of turnino;
their labor to the most profitable account, the returns were
I correspondingly increased. At what were called the " dry dig-
gings " particularly, the yield of gold was enormous. One piece
of pure metal was found of thirteen pounds weight. The com-
mon instrument at first made use of was a simple butcher's
knife ; and as every thing was valuable in proportion to the
demand and supply, butchers' knives suddenly went up to
twenty and thirty dollars apiece. But afterwards the pick and
shovel were employed. The auriferous earth, dug out of ravines
and holes in the sides of the mountains, was packed on horses,
and carried one, two, or three miles, to the nearest water, to be
washed. An average price of this washing dirt was, at one
period, so much as four hundred dollars a cart load. In one
instance, five loads of such earth sold for seven hundred and
fifty-two dollars, which yielded, after washing, sixteen thousand
dollars. Cases occurred where men carried the earth in sacks on
their backs to the watering places, and collected eight to fifteen
hundred dollars in a day, as the proceeds of their labor. Indi-

EFFECTS OF THE GOLD DISCOVERIES. 211

viduals made their five thousand, ten thousand, and fifteen thou-
sand dollars in the space of only a few weeks. One man dug
out twelve thousand dollars in six days. Three others obtained
eight thousand dollars in a single day. But these, of course,
were extreme cases. Still it was undoubtedly true, that a large
proportion of the miners were earning such sums as they had
never even seen in their lives before, and which, six months earlier,
would have appeared a downright fable. When the " Cahfor-
nian " newspaper resumed its issue in July, the editors said, that
the j)ublisher of the paper, "when on a tour alone to the
mining district," (probably in June,) " collected, with the aid of
a shovel, pick and tin pan, about twenty inches in diameter,
from forty-four to one hundred and twenty-eight dollars a day,
averaging one hundred dollars." This is a fair specimen of the
moderately fortunate miner.

The story has a shady as well as a bright side, and would
be incomplete unless both were shown. There happened to be
a " sickly season " in the autumn at the mines ; and many of
the miners sank under fever and diseases of the bowels. A
severe kind of labor, to which most had been unaccustomed, a
complete change of diet and habits, insufficient shelter, continued
mental excitement, and the excesses in personal amusement and
dissipation which golden gains induced, added to the natural
unhealthiness that might have existed in the district at different
periods of the year, soon introduced sore bodily troubles upon
many of the mining population. No gains could compensate a
dying man for the fatal sickness engendered by his own avari-
cious exertions. In the wild race for riches, the invalid was
neglected by old comrades still in rude health and the riotous
enjoyment of all the pleasures that gold and the hope of continu-
ally adding to their store could bestow. When that was the
case with old companions it could not be expected that strangers
should care whether the sick man lived or died. Who forsooth
among the busy throng would trouble himself Avith the feeble
miner that had miscalculated his energies, and lay dying on the
earthen floor of his tent or under the protecting branch of a
tree ? There were no kind eyes to gaze mournfully on him,
hearts to feel, lips to speak softly, and hands to minister to his

212 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

wants. His gains were swept away to buy a hasty and careless
medical attendance ; and too generally he died " unwept, un-
knclled, unknown." Selfishness that heeded not the dying
might perchance bury the dead, if only the corrupting corpse
stood in the way of working a rich claim — scarcely otherwise.
Many, not so far reduced, were compelled to return to their old
homes, the Hving spectres of their former selves, broken in con-
stitution and wearied in spirit ; thoroughly satisfied that the
diggings were not fit abiding places for them.

The implements at first used in the process of gold seeking^
were only the common pick and shovel, and a tin pan or wooden
bowl. The auriferous earth when dug out was put into the last,
and water being mixed with it, the contents were violently stirred.
A peculiar shake of the hand or wrist, best understood and
learned by practice, threw occasionally over the edge of the pan
or bowl the muddy water and earthy particles, while the metal,
being heavier, sunk to the bottom. Eepeated washings of this
nature, assisted by breaking the hard pieces of earth with the
hand or a trowel, soon extricated the gold from its covering aild
carried away all the dirt. But if even these simple implements
were not to be had, a sailor's or butcher's knife, or even a sharp-
ened hard-pointed stick could pick out the larger specimens — the
pepitas, chimJcs, or nuggets, of different miners — while the finer
scales of gold could be washed from the covering earth in Indian
willow-woven baskets, clay cups, old hats, or any rude apology
for a dish ; or the dried sand could be exposed on canvas to the
wind, or dihgently blown by the breath, until nothing was left
but the particles of pure gold that were too heavy to be carried
away by these operations. Afterwards the rocker or cradle and
Long Tom were introduced, wliich required several hands to feed
and work them ; and the returns by which were correspondingly
great. Every machine, however, was worked on the same prin-
ciple, by rocking or washing, of separating by the mechanical
means of gravitation, the heavier particles — the gold from stones,
and the fighter ones of earth. .

Provisions and necessaries, as might have been expected, soon
rose in price enormously. At first the rise was moderate indeed,
four hundred per cent, for flour, and five hundred for beef cattle,

EFFECTS OF THE GOLD DISCOVERIES.

213

while other things were in iiroportion. But these were trifles.
The time soon came when eggs were sold at one, two, and three
dollars apiece ; inferior sugar, tea, and coffee, at four dollars a
pound in small quantities, or, three or four hundred dollars a
barrel ; medicines — say, for laudanum, a dollar a drop, (actuall\
forty dollars were paid for a dose of that quantity,) and It]-:

A Miniii'' "-cone.

dollars a pill or purge, without advice, or wuth it, from thirty,
up, aye, to one hundred dollars. Spirits were sold at various
prices, from ten to forty dollars a quart ; and wines at about as
much per bottle. Picks and shovels ranged from five to fifteen
dollars each ; and common wooden or tin bowls about half as
much. Clumsy rockers were sold at from fifty to eighty dollars,
and small gold scales, from twenty to thirty. As for beef, little
of it was to be had, and then only jerked, at correspondingly
high prices. For luxuries — of which there were not many ; if a
lucky miner set his heart on some trifle, it might be pickles.

214 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

fruit fresh pork, sweet butter, new vegetables, a box of seidlitz
powders or of matches, he was prepared to give any quantity of
the "dust" rather than be balked. We dare not trust ourselves
to name some of the fancy prices thus given, lest we should bo
supposed to be only romancing. No man would give another a
hand's turn for less than five dollars ; while a day's constant
labor of the commonest kind, if it could have been procured at
all would cost from twenty to thirty dollars, at least. When
these things, and the risks of sickness, the discomforts of living,
and the unusual and severe kind of labor are all balanced against
the average gains, it may appear that, after all, the miners were
only enough paid.

About the end of May we left San Francisco almost a desert
place, and such it continued during the whole summer and
autumn months. Many ships with valuable cargoes had mean-
while arrived in the bay, but the seamen deserted. The goods at
great expense had been somehow got landed, but there was no-
body to take care of them, or remove them from the wharves
where they lay exposed to the weather, and blocking up the way.
The merchants who remained were in a feverish bustle. They
were selUng goods actually arrived at high prices, and could get
no hands to assist them in removing and delivering the articles.
By and bye, some of the miners came back to their old homes ;
but most of them were emaciated, feeble and disjointed. Here,
therefore, as at the mines, the prices of labor and all necessaries
rose exceedingly. The common laborer, who had formerly l)een
content with his doUar a day, now proudly refused ten ; the me-
chanic, who had recently been glad to receive two dollars, now
rejected twenty for his day's sei-vices. It w^as certainly a great
country, this — there was no mistake about it ; and ^very subject
was as lofty, independent, and seemingly as rich as a king. No
money indeed could now buy the servile labor of many persons
who had lately been glad to receive the meanest employment ;
and thus many necessary acts, and much manual business had
to be done by principals themselves, or not done at all. Keal es-
tate, meanwhile, had rapidly advanced in value, and generall\
was considered worth from five to ten times its former price.
Within the first eight weeks after the " diggings " had beeu

EFFECTS OF THE GOLD DISCOVERIES. 215

fairly known, two hundred and fifty thousand dollars had reached
San Francisco in gold dust, and within the next eight weeks, six
hundred thousand more. These sums were all to purchase, at
any price, additional supplies for the mines. Coin grew scarce,
and all that was in the country was insufficient to satisfy the in-
creased wants of commerce in one town alone. Gold dust, there-
fore, soon became a circulating medium, and after some little de-
mur at first, was readily received hy all classes at sixteen dol-
lars an ounce. The authorities, however, would only accept it in
payment of customs duties at ten dollars per ounce, with the
privilege of redemption, by payment of coin, within a limited
time.

When subsequently immigrants began to arrive in numerous
bands, any amount of labor could be obtained, provided always a
most unusually high price was paid for it. Keturned diggers, and
those who cautiously had never went to the mines, were then also
glad enough to work for rates vaiying from twelve to thirty dollars
a day ; at which terms most capitahsts were somewhat afraid to
commence any heavy undertaking. The hesitation was only for
an instant. Soon all the labor that could possibly be procured,
was in ample request, at whatever rates were demanded. The
population of a great State was suddenly flocking in upon them,
and no preparations had hitherto been made for its reception.
Building lots had to be surveyed, and streets graded and planked
— hills levelled — hollows, lagoons, and the bay itself piled, capped,
filled up and planked — lumber, bricks, and all other building ma-
terials, provided at most extraordinarily high prices — houses built,
finished and furnished — great warehouses and stores erected —
wharves run far out into the sea — numberless tons of goods re-
moved from shipboard, and delivered and shipped anew every
where — and ten thousand other things had all to be done without
a moment's unnecessary delay. Long before these things were
completed, the sand-hills and barren ground around the town
were overspread with a multitude of canvas, blanket and bough-
covered tents, — the bay was alive with shipping and small craft
carrying passengers and goods backwards and forwards, — the un-
planked, ungraded, unformed streets, (at one time moving heaps
of dry sand and dust ; at another, miry abysses, whose treacher-

216 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

ous depths sucked in horse and dray, and occasionally man him-
self,) were crowded with human beings from every corner of the
universe and of every tongue — all excited and busy, plotting,
speaking, working, buying and selling town lots, and beach and
water lots, shiploads of every kind of assorted merchandise, the
ships themselves, if they could, — though that was not often, —
o-old dust in hundred weights, ranches square leagues in extent,
with their thousands of cattle — allotments in hundreds of con-
templated towns, already prettily designed and laid out, — on pa-
per, — and, in short, speculating and gambling in every branch
of modern commerce, and in many strange things peculiar to the
time and the place. And every body made money, and loas sud-
denly growing rich.

The loud voices of the eager seller and as eager buyer — the
laugh of reckless joy — the bold accents of successful speculation
— the stir and hum of active hurried labor, as man and brute,
horse and bullock, and their guides, struggled and managed
through heaps of loose rubbish, over hills of sand, and among de-
ceiving deep mud pools and swamps, filled the amazed newly ar-
rived immigrant with an almost appalling sense of the exuberant
Ufe, energy and enterprise of the place. He breathed quick and
faintly — his limbs grew weak as water — and his heart sunk with-
in him as he thought of the dreadful conflict, when he ap-
proached and mingled among that confused and terrible business
battle.

Gambhng saloons, glittering hke fairy palaces, like them sud-
denly sprang into existence, studding nearly all sides of the plaza,
and every street in its neighborhood. As if intoxicating drinks
from the well plenished and splendid bar they each contained
were insufficient to gild the scene, music added its loudest, if not
its sweetest charms ; and all was mad, feverish mirth, where for-
tunes were lost and won, upon the green cloth, in the twinkling
of an eye. All classes gambled in those days, from the starched
white neck-clothed professor of rehgion to the veriest black rascal
that earned a dollar for })lackening massa's boots. Nobody had
leisure to think even for a moment of his occupation, and how
it was viewed in Christian lands. The heated brain was never
allowed to get cool while a bit of coin or dust was left. These

EFFECTS OF THE GOLD DISCOVERIES. 217

saloons, therefore, were crowded, night and day, by impatient
revellers who never could satiate themselves with excitement, nor
get rid too soon of their golden heaps.

We are, however, anticipating and going ahead too fast. We
cannot help it. The very thought of that wondrous time is an
electric spark that fires into one great flame all our fancies, pas-
sions and experiences of the fall of the eventful year, 1849.
The remembrance of those days comes across us like the delirium
of fever ; we are caught by it before we are aware, and forthwith
b^in to babble of things which to our sober Atlantic friends
seem more the ravings of a madman, than plain, dull realities.
The world had perhaps never before afforded such a spectacle ;
and probably nothing of the kind will be witnessed again for
generations to come. Happy the man who can tell of those
things which he saw and perhaps himself did, at San Francisco,
at that time. He shall be an oracle to admiring neighbors. A
city of twenty or thirty thousand inhabitants improvised — the
people nearly all adult males, strong in person, clever, bold, san-
guine, restless and reckless But really we must stop now,

and descend to our simple " annals."

CHAPTER VII.

1849.

The Alta California newspaper established. — Delegates elected to the proposed convention to be held
at San Jos6. — New town council elected. — Three town councils at one time. — Meeting of the con-
vention to frame a civil government postponed. — Public meeting respecting the conflicting coun
cils. — Public meeting concerning negro slavery. — Town councils resigned, and legislative assembly
chosen. — Arrival of the steamship California. — Address of delegates to civil government con
vention. — Arrival of steamship Oregon, and Col. John "W. Geary with the first United States
mails. — General Eiley announced territorial governor. — Acts of the legislative assembly and of the
governor. — Meetings concerning municipal and State governments. — Growth, population and gen-
eral prosperity of the city. — Gambling and other vices and crimes.

January 4th. — " The Star and Californian " is dropped, and
the " Alta California," a weekly newspaper of the same character
and appearance, and pubUshed by the same parties, is issued in
its stead.

January 8th. — Election of delegates to the proposed con-
vention at San Jose, in conformity with the resolutions of the
public meeting of 23d ultimo, when Wm. M. Stewart, Francis J.
Lippitt, Elbert P. Jones, Myi'on Norton and John A. Patterson
were chosen.

January 15th. — New election of town council, which result-
ed in the choice of Stephen C. Harris, Lazarus Everhart, Ste-
phen A. Wright, Daniel Starts, Isaac Montgomery, John Sir-
rine, and C. E. Wetmore. Mr. Sirrine was appointed president.

There were at this period three town councils in San Francis-
co, viz. : — the old one of 1848, not yet dissolved, and those elect-
ed on the 27th December and 15th January respectively. The
former of the two last insisted that the council of the previous
year had expired the very day of its own election on the 27th
December, and therefore the members met and transacted busi-
ness as if it alone represented the town. A majority of the old
council, however, insisted on continuing in office till those whom

MUNICIPAL AND STATE GOVEKNMENTS, -219

they considered their proper successors were chosen, and accord-
ingly, they supported the council elected on the 15th January,
and resolved to transfer the municipal records into its hands.
The citizens generally seemed adverse to the pretensions of the
• Jd council, as scarcely a fourth part of the numbers that voted
I'll the 27th December voted on the second election of the 15th
January. Strong party and personal feehngs existed among the
inhabitants at this time. The alcalde, T. M. Leavenworth, and
his official acts, among other subjects of contention, were vigor-
ously attacked by one party, and as strenuously defended by the
other.

January 24th. — The corresponding committee for the Dis-
trict of San Francisco, on the suggestion of the delegates chosen
at Monterey, recommend a postponement of the assembhng of
the convention for framing a civil government to the first day of
May, in order to give the southern districts sufficient time to elect
delegates and appear at the convention. The movement for the
election of such delegates is general over the country, as the peo-
ple are satisfied that the present state of civil disorganization cannot
safely be longer permitted.

February. — It was estimated that the population was now
about two thousand.

February 12th. — Pubhc meeting of citizens to consider the
anomalous position of two town councils existing and acting, in-
dependently of each other, at the same time. Myron Korton
was called upon to preside, and T. W. Perkins to act as secretary.
George Hyde submitted a plan of municipal organization and
government, which was adopted by the meeting ; and resolutions
were passed recj^uesting the members of both councils to resign,
and appointing an election of fifteen town councillors and thi'ee
justices of the peace, to take place on the 21st instant.

February I7th and 24th. — Pubhc meetings to consider the
propriety of instructing the delegate's to the convention of the
1st of May to oppose any incipient act that might tend to the
introduction of negro slavery into California, Capt. J. L. Folsom
was chosen president, and B. R. Buckelew secretary. It was
known that the whole delay of Congress in providing a territorial
government had arisen from the disputes, and the apparent im-

220 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

possibility of agreement between the two great political parties
on this subject. The inhabitants of the country itself might be
said to be unanimous against slavery in all shapes among them ;
and they were justly indignant that the Atlantic politicians
should pretend to dictate to them any thing on the matter. At
these meetings, resolutions were passed, instructing the delegates
of the San Francisco district, " by all honorable means to oppose
any act, measure, provision or ordinance that is calculated to fur-
ther the introduction of domestic slavery into the territory of
California."

February 21st. — In compliance with the wishes of the
meeting of the 12th instant, the members of both town councils
resigned their office^ and an election of fifteen members of a legis-
lative assembly and three justices of the peace took place this day,
which it was hoped would settle all disputes between the rival
partisans. The parties elected were as follows : —

Justices of the Peace.
Myron Norton, Theron R. Per Lee, Wm. ]\I. Stewart.

District Legislature.

Stephen A. Wright, Isaac JNIontgomery, Thomas J. Roach,

Alfred J. Elhs, Wm. M. Smith, Wm. F. Swasey,

Henry A. Harrison, Andrew J. Grayson, Francis J. Lippitt,

George C. Hubbard, James Creighton, George F. Lemon.

George Hyde, Robert A. Parker,

On the 5th proximo these gentlemen met, and chose various
officials ; but as the whole proceedings were afterwards set aside,
it is unnecessary here to detail more of them.

February 28th. — The steamship ^^ California," being the
first of the line of mail steamers along the coast, arrived. The
citizens hailed her appearance with many cheers and other de-
monstrations of joy. General Persifer F. Smith, a passenger on
this vessel, came to take command of the Pacific division of the
military department of the United States, which comprehends
Oregon and California.

March. — An address to the people of California was issued
by several of the delegates for San Francisco, Monterey, Sonoma,
Sacramento, and other parts of the country, recommending a
postponement of the meeting of the convention to frame a civil

MUNICIPAL AND STATE GOVERNMENTS. 221

government, to the first Monday of August, and that the place
of meeting be Monterey, instead of San Jose.

March 31st. — The Pacific mail steamsliip " Oregon " arrived
with about three hundred and fifty passengers, among whom were
Col. John W. Geary and family. Col. Geary had been appointed
postmaster for San Francisco, with powers to create post-offices
and appoint postmasters throughout the territory ; also to estab-
lish mail routes and make contracts for carrying the mails. He
was the bearer of despatches from the United States Government
to the commanders of the military and naval forces on the
Pacific, and brouoht with him the first regular mail from the
Atlantic States that was opened in San Francisco.

April 13th. — Order issued by Brigadier-General Bennet
Riley, announcing that he had assumed command of the tenth
military department of the United States, and the administration
<»f civil affairs in California.

June. — For the last six months, and particularly during the
last two, the public events of most consequence to San Francisco
resolve themselves into two divisions, viz. : the appointment of
proper district and municipal authorities, and the formation of a
State government. We have already chronicled several meetings
on both these heads ; but notwithstanding all that had been said
(.ir done, no common action could be obtained to promote the ends
in view to the satisfaction of all parties.

As regarded the municipal question, the recently appointed
legislative assembly abolished the office of alcalde, and substituted
the senior justice of the peace in his place. Afterwards, the
alcalde, Mr. Leavenworth, was ordered to give up the town docu-
ments and official papers in his hands ; upon which he appKed
for advice to General Smith, who recommended him not to com-
ply with the demands of the legislative assembly. That body
next ordered the election of a sheriff, who, when appointed, pro-
ceeded to take what he considered legal steps against Mr. Leaven-
worth, who had meanwhile resuscitated the old council of 1848,
to sanction and confirm his proceedings, which it readily did,
appealing to Governor Riley for advice and protection. The gov-
ernor, accordingly, on the 4tli of June, issued a proclamation to
the citizens, recognizing the office and power of the existing

222 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

alcalde, declaring the legislative assembly an illegal body, and
forbidding payment of taxes to them.

While that was the state of affairs regarding the municipahty
and District of San Francisco, the governor, on the 3d of June,
issued a proclamation to the people of California, in which, after
narrating the position of the country, and the necessity of both
district and general governments, he appointed the first day of
August for the election, first, of certain specified municipal and
district provisional officials over the whole country, according to
Mexican custom ; and second, of thirty-seven delegates to be
chosen from the specified districts, as delegates to a general con-
vention to be held at Monterey, on the first day of September
next, for the purpose of forming a State Constitution.

Following upon these proclamations, the people of San Fran-
cisco held a mass meeting in Portsmouth Square, on the 12th of
June, when Wm. M. Stewart was chosen president, and E. Gould
Bufium, secretary. This meeting was large and enthusiastic, and
after being addressed by several eloquent speakers, resolved that
the people of Cahfornia had a right to organize a government for
their own protection — that, therefore, delegates should be chosen
to frame a constitution — and that a committee of five be imme-
diately appointed by the president of the meeting to correspond
with the other districts of the country, in order to carry out in a
practical manner the said resolutions. The meeting refused to
recognize Governor Kiley's proclamations as binding on them.
The committee chosen consisted of Peter H. Burnett, Wm. D.
M. Howard, Myron Norton, E. Gould Bufi'um, and E. Gilbert.
This committee, on the 18th of June, issued an address to the
public, in which, without admitting the right or power in Gov-
ernor Kiley to " appoint " time or place for the election of dele-
gates and assembling of the convention, yet considered it best, as a
matter of expediency, to adopt the terms of the governor's pro-
clamation in these respects.

These steps settled the plan and course of future proceedings
so far as the State Government was concerned. In respect to
the municipality the legislative assembly published a long address
to their constituents, in answer to Governor Riley's proclamation
of the 3d, and the very " uncourteous and disrespectful " one of

CONDITION OF THE COUNTRY. 223

the 4th June. In this document, they resolved that they were
a legally constituted body, and declared their determination to
hold office and to act in the same until formally deprived of their
authority by the people from whom it was derived. Thus arose
a sort of civil war on a small scale. The assembly afterwards
having considered it expedient to appeal directly to the people, a
ballot was taken on the subject on the 9th July, when one hun-
dred and sixty-seven votes appeared for their continuance in office,
and only seven against it. But as this result showed either the
indifl'erence of the citizens on the subject, since but a small por-
tion of their number voted, or else their tacit desire that the
legislative assembly should altogether cease, that' body thought
fit, at last, to dissolve itself Thus the old alcalde, Mr. Leaven-
worth, was virtually reinstated in triumph, and no obstacle left
to the several elections ordered by Governor Kiley's proclamation
of the 3d of June. These various meetings and other proceedings
narrated may possess little interest for the present inhabitants of
San Francisco ; but they certainly much excited those who dwelt
in the town at the time of their occurrence. The excesses of the
" hounds/' fully described in a subsequent chapter, were much
encouraged by the dissensions and jealousies which existed among
the rival politicians and local partisans of those days.

During the first half of this year, San Francisco was rapidly
increasing the number of its houses and population. Every day
added sensibly to both. The mines were continuing to yield
large returns, most of which were immediately forwarded to San
Francisco, in exchange for new supplies. The bay was filling
with shipping from all the ports of the Pacific coast of botli
Americas, from the Sandwich Islands, and from China, Australia
and other ports towards the west. Nearly two hundred square-
rigged vessels lay at anchor about the end of July. Hosts of
passengers by these vessels, after staying but a little while in the
town, hurried ofi" to the diggings. Meanwhile, others who had
been fortunate were returning from the mines with bags of gold
dust, to squander in gambling, in drinking and aU manner of
thoughtless extravagance and dissipation. Gambling, which pre-
viously had been carried on to so great an extent, was now begin-
ning to be developed on a still larger scale. Saloons, at the

224

ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

public tables of which every variety of game was to be found,
arose in all quarters of the town, where play was carried on during
the whole twenty-four hours, and where the gross amount of
money or gold dust staked was enormous. It might almost be
said that the same spirit of gambling or speculation reigned in
every department of business ; and prices rose and fell, and for-

San Francisco, in 1849, fro;n heaii of Clay Street.

tunes were made, and lost, and made again, according to the
"play" of the parties engaged. New towns, all of course in
splendid locations, were beginning to be projected, and the build-
ing lots in them sold for immense sums of money. Sacramento
and Stockton were among the first and best needed of these
places ; and soon they took such positions as commanded success
and insured future prosperity. But besides these two cities, a
multitude of other and inferior places were projected, and while
the future of the whole country was uncertain, but over which
iiung a certain vague grandeur, their pretensions were very J
respectably set forth, and speculation in their allotments was
rife. Some of these schemes have since shared in the general
advancement of the country ; while of others probably nothing
again will ever be heard.

A short experience of the mines had satisfied most of the

CONDITION OF THE COUNTRY. 225

citizens of San Francisco that, in vulgar parlance, all was not
gold that glittered, and that hard work was not easy, — sorrj'
truisms for weak or lazy men. They returned very soon to their
old quarters, and found that much greater profits, with for less
labor, were to be found in supplying the necessities of the miners,
and speculating in real estate. For a time every body made
money, in spite of himself. The continued advance in the price
of goods, and especially in the value of real estate, gave riches at
once to the fortunate owner of a stock of the former or of a single
advantageously situated lot of the latter. When trade was
brisk, and profits so large, nobody grudged to pay any price, or
any rent, for a proper place of business. Coin was scarce, but
bags of gold dust furnished a circulating medium, which answered
all purposes. The gamblers at the public saloons staked such
bags, or were supplied with money upon them by the " banks,"
till the whole was exhausted. There were few resrular houses
erected, for neither building materials nor suflicient labor were
to be had ; but canvas tents, or houses of frame, served the im-
mediate needs of the place. Great quantities of goods continued
to pour in from the nearer ports, till there were no longer stores
to receive and cover them. In addition to Broadway Wharf,
Central Wharf was projected, subscribed for, and commenced.
Several other small wharves at landing-places were constructed
at the cost of private parties. All these, indeed, extended but a
little way across the mud flat in the bay, and were of no use at
low tide ; yet they gave considerable facilities for landing passen-
gers and goods in open boats. The different religious denomina-
tions were beginning to make movements as to creating churches
and appointing clergymen ; while the Freemasons and Odd-Fel-
lows were likewise beginning to take their characteristic first
steps. Seamen deserted their vessels, as a matter of course, so
soon as they dropped anchor in the bay, and hastened to the
mines. Society, not merely there, but in San Francisco, was in
a state of utter disorganization, which became worse and more
terrible as the autumn and winter months brought new thousands
of immigrants upon the place. We have seen that there was
neither a proper government for the State, nor recognized; mu-
nicipal authorities, who could have protected the citizens, and
15

226 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

established order, and made provision for the systematic extension
of the town and reception of the coming crowds. There was a
military governor, indeed, and martial law could have been
adopted, but the governor had not sufficient force at his com-
mand to curb the wild elements of the population ; nor, at best,
would his forcible interference have satisfied American ideas of
civil independence and the national privilege of self-government.
Thefts, robberies, murders, and other outrages of the most des-
perate and criminal nature were taking place, and there were no
proper officials to take cognizance of them, and bring the ofiend-
ers to justice. Every man was intent on merely making money,
and provided an outrage did not, in a direct manner, personally
or pecuniarily affect himself, he was content to shut his eyes to
the ultimate consequences.

By the beginning of 1849, the population of San Francisco
had increased to two thousand. Two months later it was proba-
bly about three thousand ; whilst in July, when the riots and
outrages of the " hounds" came to a height, it might be nearly
five thousand. This was what might be called the usual and
permanent population of the time — if any thing could be sup-
posed permanent in so frail and fluctuating a place, although
every day new arrivals of immigrants added temporarily to the
number, till they flocked ofi" to Sacramento, Stockton, and the
mines.

CHAPTER VIII.

1849.

The Hounds. — Election of Supreme Judge, delegates to convention, and municipal officers. — Al-
caide's address to the Ayuntamlento. — Duties of prefects. — The prison brig Eupbemia, and store-
ship Apollo. — Churches.— Regulations and appointments of tho Ayunlamiento. — The " Paciflo
News" commenced. — Meeting of the Constitution Convention at Monterey.— Merchants' Ex-
change. — Steam Navigation. — Death of Nathan Spear. —First democratic meeting. — Circus
opened. — Constitution approved and State officers elected. — First habitation on Rincon Point —
Tlianksgiving Day. — Judge Almond's court — The " Alta California," — First great fire.

July 15th, et seq. — The affair of the "hounds" came to au end.
This was an association of young men for the declared purpose
of assisting each other in sickness, or when peril of any kind
threatened any of the members. It had been imperfectly organ-
ized in the beginning of the year, and was virtually a gang of
public robbers. The members assumed a kind of military disci-
pline, under the guidance of regular leaders, who wore a uniform^
and occasionally, but only on Sundays, paraded the streets with
flags displayed and drum and fife playing. They attacked the
tents of inoffensive people, chiefly foreigners, and if they could
not extort money from the owners or inmates by threats, tore
them down to the ground, and stole or destroyed money, jewels,
and every thing valuable on the premises. These outrages, per-
petrated usually at night, when the more peaceable citizens had
retired to rest, were so frequent that the " hounds " became a
terror to all well-disposed people of the town. They invaded
the stores, taverns, and houses of Americans themselves, and
rudely demanded whatever they desired. They could not be
refused, for their numbers were so great, while they were well
armed, that nobody durst resist them. The town was paralyzed
with terror, and the " hounds," who latterly adopted the name

228 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

of '^ regiclators," committed the most violent and cruel outrages
in open defiance of the law and common humanity, A series of
the most barbarous, destructive, and daring attacks, were perpe-
ti-ated by those desperadoes on Sunday, the 15th of July, which
at last effectually roused the community to a determined coun-
teiaction. They formed themselves into a police force, and pro-
ceeded to measure their strength against the rioters. They were
successful, and immediately afterwards some twenty of the of-
fenders were put upon trial. At this time San Francisco had no
proper municipal organization, while neither was there an efficient
State government to which the citizens could appeal for protec-
tion. They therefore had to do every thing for themselves.
They accordingly appointed judges and counsel for both prosecu-
tion and defence, and at once proceeded with the trial of the
rioters, or conspirators, as they were charged with being. A
jury found them guilty of conspiracy, riot, robbery, and assault,
with intent to kill. Nine were convicted and sentenced to
various periods of imprisonment and considerable fines, and the
town was purged for a while of the more violent ruffians that had
infested it. A full account of these proceedings will be found in
the Third Part of this work.

August 1st. — The elections ordered by Governor Riley took
pLace in a spirited, though orderly manner. The candidates were
numerous, and the following parties were elected : —

Judge of the Supr-eme Court.
Peter H. Burnett, who had 1298 votes in San Francisco, and 76 at San Jos6.

Prefect. First Alcalde.

Horace Hawes, 913 votes. John W. Geary, 1516 votes.

Sub-Prefects. Second Alcalde.

Francis Guerrero, 1503 votes. Frank Turk, 1055 votes.

Joseph R. Curtis, 1399 "

Ayuntamiento, or Town Council.

Talbot H. Green, 1510 votes. Rodman M. Price, 840 votes.

Henry A. Harrison, 1491 " Wm. H. Davis, 835 "

Alfred J. Ellis, 1354 « Bezer Simmons, 825 «

Stephen C. Harris, 1323 « Samuel Brannan, 823

Thos. B. Winton, 1052 « Wm. M. Stewart, 815

John Townsend, 1052 " Gabriel B. Post, 691

alcalde's address to the ayuntamiento. 229

Delegates to Convention. Supernumerary Delegates.

Edward Gilbert, 1512 votes. Win. D. M. Howard, 876 votes.

Myron Norton, 1436 « Francis J. Lippitt, 874 "

Wm. M. Gwin, 1073 " Alfred J. Ellis, 872 "

Joseph Hobson, 839 " Francisco Sanchez, 872 "

Wm. M. Stewart, 833 « Rodman M. Price, 871 "

There were some ten or a dozen different tickets at this elec-
tion, upon all of which the name of Col. John W. Geary ap-
peared for the office of First Alcalde. He consequently received
the whole number of votes polled. This decided evidence of
public confidence was deserved and appreciated. At the first
meeting of the ai/untamiento, the newly elected alcalde presented
the following address. It is a document worthy of preservation,
being well written, and giving a faithful account of the gloomy
aspect of public affairs in San Francisco at that period, and
much usefid advice to those having the interests of the city in
charcje : —

'* Gentlemen of the City Councils : — Having been called by the unanimous
voice of my fellow-citizens to the office of chief magistrate of the city of San
Francisco, I find it impossible to convey to them by words the feelings excited
by this decided manifestation of their confidence and approbation. Pro-
foundly sensible that the honor and trust which have been conferred upon me far
transcend ray deserts, I can make no other return, than a heartfelt declaration
of my gratitude, accompanied by the assurance, that to the extent of my
power, I will with zeal and fidelity cause the observance of every law and or-
dinance made for the good of this city.

"The citizens of San Francisco, appreciating the importance of the present
crisis in the territorial history of California, and particularly the high and im-
portant destiny of their cit}"^, have conferred upon you, gentlemen, the onerous
duty, 3'et high honor, of legislating for their future welfare and prosperity.

" As your presiding officer, I deem it my duty to call your attention to the
situation of the city, and to ask your co-operation in making it, in point of
order and security, what it must shortly be in wealth and importance, the
first city, and great commercial and moneyed emporium of the Pacific. To
effect this, gentlemen, it will require of you great devotion to your duties, as
well as great diligence and a liberal supply of funds for municipal purposes.

" Economy in the expenditure of the public money is at all times desirable
and necessary ; but situated as we are here, without any superior body to
legislate for us, the people of the city will, of necessity, be called upon to
assume a responsibility in the enactment of laws, and in the expenditure of
money for public purposes, not usual under ordinary circumstances. Of this
every citizen of San Francisco is fully aware, and all who desire the prosperity

230 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

and good government of the city will stand ready to sustain you in whatever
you may do for its permanent improvement and benefit.

" At this time we are without a dollar in the public treasury, and it is to
be feared the city is greatly in debt. You have neither an office for your
magistrate, nor any other public edifice. You are without a single police offi-
cer or watchman, and have not the means of confining a prisoner for an hour ;
neither have you a place to shelter, while living, sick and unfortunate strangers
who may be cast upon our shores, or to bury them when dead. Public im-
provements are unknown in San Francisco. In short, you are without a
single requisite necessary for the promotion of prosperity, for the protection
of property, or for the maintenance of order.

" I therefore repeat, that the present exigency in public affairs requires
the utmost diligence on your part, in the performance of all your duties, as
well as a liberal supply of funds, to provide for the security of life and property
in San Francisco.

" There is perhaps no city upon the earth where a tax for the support of
its municipal government can be more justly imposed than here. Real
estate, both improved and unimproved, within a short space of time, has in-
creased in value in many instances a thousand-fold, and even at its present
liigh rates, will produce in the shape of rents the largest average income upon
record. Yet notwithstanding this unprecedented increased value of real
estate, the burdens of government should not be borne by a tax upon that
species of property alone ; each and every kind of business carried on within
the limits of the district should bear its just and proper share of taxation.
Equal justice to all should be your guide, and if strictly followed, none will
have just cause of complaint.

" The charters of most cities in the United States, granted by the Legisla-
tures, give the corporation the right to levy and collect a tax, as well to defray
the expenses of its municipal government as for public improvements; and it
is usual to submit a tax bill to the Legislature for its confirmation. This is
done to prevent abuses. Yet I do not know of an instance where the tax im-
posed has been reduced by the Legislature. In towns not incorporated there
is no resort to be had to the Legislature for a confirmation of the tax laws. The
town officers, chosen by the people, impose the taxes, and collect a sufficient
revenue by common consent ; and their right to do so is never questioned.
That you have a right to levy and collect a reasonable and proper tax, for the
support of your municipal government, cannot, in my judgment, for a moment
be questioned. In the absence of State legislative authority, you, as the
representatives of the people, are supreme in this district, and your acts, so
long as you confine them strictly to the legitimate sphere of your duty, will
not only be sanctioned and approved by the present worthy Executive of our
government in California, but will be most promptly confirmed by the Legis-
lature, whenever one shall be assembled either for the Territory or State.

" I would, therefore, recommend that with all convenient despatch you
ascertain, as near as possible, the amount of funds deemed necessary for the
support of a proper and efficient municipal government for one year ; that

alcalde's address to the ayuntamiento. 231

when you shall have determined this, you shall proceed to collect a just equi-
table tax upon real estate and upon sales at auction ; and that you require all
merchants, traders, storekeepers, &c., to take out a license for the transaction
of their business, paying therefor an amount proportionate to the quantity of
merchandise vended by them. Also, that all drays, lighters, and boats, used
in the transportation of merchandise, and of passengers, to or from vessels in
the harbor, be licensed.

" There is also another class of business proper to be taxed, which although
sometimes prohibited by law, yet in many countries is regulated by law. I
recommend you to adopt the latter course. The passion for gaming is uni-
versal, even where the severest penalties are imposed to prevent its indul-
gence. And it is a fact well known and understood, whenever gaming tables
are licensed and subject to proper police regulations, they are less injurious to
the interests and morals of the community than when conducted in defiance
of law. In the one case the proprietors are amenable to the law which au-
thorizes them, and are subject to proper control ; while on the other hand, if
prohibited, the evasion of the law by such means as are usually resorted to,
does but increase the evil, and the community is in no way benefited. I would,
therefore, recommend, under present circumstances, and until State legislation
can be had on the subject, that you license gaming and billiard tables.

" For the collection of each and every tax, the imposition of which I have
recommended, j'ou have the example of almost every city in the world. A
revenue is necessary for the proper maintenance and support of the munici-
pality, — and it is a maxim everywhere acknowledged, that every citizen
should, for the privileges he enjoys, aid in the support of the government
under which he lives, and which affords him protection of life, liberty, and
property.

" The public documents containing all the muniments of title, &c., for real
estate, are not to be found in possession of my predecessor, but in the private
keeping of a portion of the citizens.

" As these documents have not been transferred to me in a lesral manner
by an officer of the law, and as there may be a probability of their being more
or less mutilated, I particularly request you to grant me authority to appoint
a committee of three respectable and intelligent citizens, who, under oath,
shall make an inventory of the said documents, and a schedule of any mutila-
tions, erasures, or interlineations, which may be found on their pages. I feel
confident that the importance of this matter has already suggested to you
such a measure, inasmuch as the value of titles to real estate might be greatly
impaired by failing to adopt it. This course will not only relieve from unjust
suspicion the officer to whose charge and safe-keeping those documents are
intrusted by the law, but it will also render him responsible for his own
acts, and not for those of his predecessor, or of any other person.

" The laws under which we act oblige each officer, without regard to his
station, to advance, with his utmost zeal, the cause of education. I, there-
fore, strongly urge upon you the propriety of adopting measures by which
the children of the high, the low, the rich and the poor of this district, can

232

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

have equal advantages of drinking freely at the fountain of primary know-
ledge ; and it is to be hoped that our territory, which is ere long to be erected
into a State, and placed by the side of her elder sisters of the Union, will
show to them that she fully appreciates education as the only safeguard of our
republican institutions ; that the liberties of the people are based upon their
intelligence, and that in this respect, as well as in all others, California will
present herself to the world a model Republic, without spot or blemish.

" John W. Geary,
^^ First Alcalde oftlie District of San Francisco. Cal."'

Prison-brig Eupheinia. and Sto-e-ship Apollo.

Prefect Hawes also ably addressed the council, chiefly ex-
plaining the duties of prefects, which are, he says, " to take care
of public order and tranquillity ; to publish and circulate, with-
out delay, observe, enforce, and cause to be observed and en-
forced, the laws, throughout their respective districts ; and for
the execution of these duties they are clothed with certain pow-
ers, which are clearly specified and defined. They are particu-
larly enjoined to attend to the subject of public instruction, and
see that common schools be not wanting in any of the towns of

riRST PROTESTANT CHURCH. 233

their respective districts. They are also required to propose
measures for the encouragement of agriculture and all branches
of industry, instruction, and public beneficence, and 'for the exe-
cution of new works of public utility and the repair of old ones.
They constitute the ordinary channel of communication between
the governor and the authorities of the district, and are to com-
uumicate all representations coming from the latter, accompanied
with the necessary information."

The first money appropriated by the ayuntamiento was for the
purchase of the brig Euphemia, which was converted into a
prison for the confinement of criminals. This was the first jail
established in the place where convicted rogues could be kept in
custody. We give a correct representation of the Euphemia.
The store-ship Apollo, which is seen on the illustration, was an-
chored in the cove, some distance from the beach. It was subse-
quently used for a lodging-house and drinking-saloon. As the
city improvements progressed, lots were piled, capped, and filled
in on the flat covered by the waters of the bay, far beyond where
the Apollo lay ; and strangers visiting the city were astonished
to see the hull of a large ship located in the very heart of the
city, surrounded on all sides with large blocks of substantial stone
and brick edifices.

August 5th. — The first Protestant Church in California was
dedicated by the Baptists. At this time the Episcopalians,
Presbyterians, Congregationalists, and Methodists, were taking
steps to build places of worship for themselves, while most of
these denominations had already established sabbath-schools.
The Roman Catholics had also erected a church in Vallejo-street,
at which divine service was regularly performed on Sundays.
The Pev. T. D. Hunt, whose appointment was noticed before,
officiated at the chaplaincy ; and Mr. Lyman, a Mormon
preacher, was holding forth at the Institute, on Portsmouth
Square.

August 6th, 8th, and 11th. — The ayuntamiento meet, take
the oaths of office, and organize and distribute themselves into
various committees, for the purpose of systematically conducting
the afifains of the town. On the 13th, they appointed the follow-
ing municipal officials : —

234

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

Frank Turk, Secretary.
William M. Eddy, City Surveyor.
P. C. \j&ndcTS, , Collector of Taxes.
And on the 20th of the month,
Dr. T. R. Palmer, City Physician.

Jonathan Cade, Sergeantat-Arms.
Malachi Fallon, Captain of Police.
A. G. Peachy, City Attorney.
John E. Townes, Sheriff.
Benj. Burgoyne, City Treasurer.

View of San Francisco in 1849, from head of California street

August 27th.— The " Pacific Neivs," a San Francisco tri-
weekly newspaper, published by Messrs. Falkner and Leland,
makes its first appearance. This paper was the second in San
Francisco at this period, and continued until 1851, when, after
having several times changed its proprietors and political com-
plexion, it expired. The only other newspaper in California was
the " Placer Times," published weekly at Sacramento ; but which
merged into a daily, and was afterwards issued in San Francisco.

The ayuntamiento this day issue an ordinance (subsequently
amended and re-issued) for raising a revenue for municipal pur-
poses, chiefly by means of a percentage duty on the sale of mer-
chandise and real estate, and heavy license duties imposed on
those engaged in different kinds of business. This was the be-
ginning of those steps by which a very great revenue was after-
wards collected.

STEAM NAVIGATION COMMENCED. 235

September 1st. — The convention of delegates to frame a
State Constitution met at Monterey ; and on the 4th instant,
chose Robert Semple president, and Capt. Wm. G. Marcy secre-
tary. The Constitution was finished and signed by the delegates
on the 13th of October.

September 10th. — The first "Merchants' Exchange" was
projected a short time before this date ; and at a public meeting
of citizens, held to-day, the scheme was approved of and sub-
scribed to by a considerable number of merchants and others.
The undertaking, however, after going on some time, seems to
have been dropped ; and in November we find Mr. E. E. Dunbar
opening a subscription " Merchants' Exchange and Reading
Room" in Washington street, which was patronized by most
mercantile people in the town.

October 26th. — Steam navigation is beginning to be adopted
in the bay and its upper waters. Just two years before this
time Wm. A. Leidesdorfi' had attempted to run a small steam-
boat, about the size of a ship's jolly-boat, which had been pro-
cured from the Russian settlement at Sitka. But this vessel, in
February, 1848, was sunk in one of the severe northers that
visit the bay ; and no steps had been taken to renew the experi-
ment until some time after the gold discoveries made its success
certain. Then speculators sent out many proper vessels from
the Atlantic States. The " Fioneer" a little iron steamer,
brought out in pieces from Boston, sailed upon the waters of the
Sacramento River about a month before this date ; and, being
the first that had penetrated so far into the interior, deserves the
title she had assumed. On the 9th instant, the small iron
steamer " Mint" had a trial trip, which was highly satisfactory.
She was intended to ply between San Francisco and the towns
on the upper waters. This day the steam-propeller " McKim"
left for Sacramento. Before this time voyages across the bay
and up the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers were made in
schooners and launches. These vessels were often detained a
week or ten days in sailing that distance, which a steamer now
accomplishes in half a day. Both the steamers mentioned sailed
every alternate day from San Francisco, and on the intervening
days left Sacramento for the return passage. The fares at first

236 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

were thirty dollars cabin, and twenty dollars deck. If berths
were used, five dollars extra. Meals on board, two dollars each.
The well known steamer " Senator " was shortly afterwards
placed on the same station, and the little " Mint" withdrawn
and placed on another. This was the beginning of a very great
increase of the transit trade of the bay. Later years have sent
numerous large, well appointed, and beautiful steam-vessels,
which have still further developed the interior water traffic, and
added immensely to the resources of the country.

October 21st. — Mr. Nathan Spear died of a disease of the
heart. He was forty-seven years of age, and one of the oldest
inhabitants of the place. This gentleman was partner to Mr.
Jacob P. Leese, who built the first house and formed the first
mercantile establishment in Yerba Buena. The death of Mr.
Spear was much regretted by the citizens, and the flags of the
ships in the bay were hung at half mast when it was announced.

October 25th. — The first Democratic Bleeting ever held in
California assembled this evening at Dennison's Exchange. The
attendance was so large that the meeting was compelled to ad-
journ to the public square. The officers chosen were : — Presi-
dent, Col. John W. Geary ; Vice-Presidents, Dr. McMillan and
Messrs. 0. P. Sutton, E. V. Joyce, Thomas J. Agnew, John
McVickar, Annis Merrill, and W. H. Jones ; Secretaries, Messrs.
Joseph T. Downey, J. Ross Brown, Daniel Cronin, and John
A. McGlynn. Hon. Wm. VanVorhies delivered a spirited ad-
dress, and a long series of resolutions expressive of democratic
principles were adopted. The chief object of the assembly was
to effect a party organization previous to the approaching State
elections.

October 29th. — Rowe's Olympic Circus, which was in a large
tent, opened to a numerous attendance of spectators. This was
the first public announcement of the dramatic or spectacle kind
in San Francisco. The " house" could hold from twelve to fif-
teen hundred ; and the prices of admission were, three dollars to
the pit, five dollars to the boxes, and fifty-five dollars for a pri-
vate box. Two theatres had some time previously been an-
nounced, and were at this time in course of formation.

November 13th.— Ballot taken on the Constitution, and

STATE ELECTION. 237

election for State officers. Party politics were beginning to in-
fluence voters in the choice of candidates. The election, how-
ever, was conducted in a quiet and orderly manner. In San
Francisco two thousand and fifty-one voted for the Constitution,
and five against it. Over the whole country the votes were
twelve thousand and sixty-four for, and eight hundred and
eleven agabist. These numbers were much below what had been
anticipated, partly on account of a mistake in the voting tickets
at San Francisco, and partly from the heavy rains over the
country, which prevented many voters from attending the polling
places. Perhaps, also, after the first excitement was over, when
the convention closed, the people became indifferent on the sub-
ject, and neglected the duty of voting. The following is a list
of the State officers, senators, and representatives in Congress,
first elected under the Constitution ; also, the members of the
first Legislature of California (to meet at San Jose), elected by
the citizens of San Francisco.

Governor. Lieutenant Governor.

Peter H. Burnett. John McDougal.

United States Senators.
John C. Fremont, Wm. M. Gwin.

Representatives in Congress.
George "W. Wright, Edward Gilbert.

Secretaty of State. Treasurer. Comptroller.

"Wm. Van Vorhies. Richard Roman. J. S. Houston.

Attorney General. Surveyor General.

Edward J. C. Kewen. Charles J. Whiting.

Chief Justice. Associate Justices.

S. C. Hastings. J. A. Lyon, Nathaniel Bennett.

State Senators.

Gabriel B. Post, Nathaniel Bennett.

Assembly.

Wm. Van Vorhies, Edmund Randolph, Levi Stowell, J. H. Watson,

J. A. Patterson.

November 26th. — The first habitation on Rincon Point,
erected by Dr. John H, Gihon, It was an India-rubber tent,

238 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

and occupied the site of the present U. S. Marine Hospital. The
entire hill was covered with gnarled oaks and thick underbrush.
There were at that time but several buildings between the Rin-
con and California street, while the waters of the bay washed the
foot of precipitous sand-hills the greater portion of the distance,
which rendered it necessary for the pedestrian, when the tide was
in, to wade up to his waist in the water in passing from the city
to the point, he being compelled to follow the line of the beach.
Those hills have since been transplanted into the cove, and made
substantial building lots, where large vessels were then anchored.
November 29th. — The governor had appointed this as a day
of solemn thanksgiving and prayer for the new State of Califor-
nia, and as such it was very generally observed.

December 12th. — Some time previous to this date, the busi-
ness of the alcalde had so greatly increased, as to render necessary
the establishment of another court ; and upon application made
to the governor, he authorized William B. Almond, Esq., to open
and hold a Court of First Instance, with civil jurisdiction only,
and that in cases involving sums exceeding one hundred dollars.
Judge Almond accordingly organized his court in the old school-
house on the plaza ; and the novel and summary manner in
which he conducted his business and disposed of sometimes very
important cases, was a source of as much merriment to some and
mortification to others as any thing else then transpiring in the
town. Many a wag who was fond of fun, and had nothing better
to do, would spend an hour in the court-room to enjoy the satis-
faction of observing the chagrin of upstart attorneys, toward whose
oratorical eloquence and legal knowledge the judge was wont to
exhibit the most mortifying indifference. His Honor, at whose
expense many a good anecdote has been told, had a sovereign
contempt for Buncombe speeches, legal technicalities, learned
opinions, and triumphantly cited precedents. He was a man of
quick discernment and clear judgment ; and his opinion once
formed, and that sometimes occurred before even the first witness
was fully heard, his decision was made. Nothing further need
be said. His mind was as unalterable as were the laws of the
Medes and Persians. Jury trials were then of rare occurrence,
and the judge decided the cases that came before him ; and

JUDGE almond's COURT. 239

there can be no reason to doubt, that his decisions generally were
far more just and equitable than those more recently given in
courts claiming greater legal knowledge, where learned judges
gravely occupy the bench, and tampered juries are influenced
more by bribes than testimony. On this day a case was tried in
which a physician had sued the captain of a ship for medical at-
tendance upon sick sailors during a voyage around Cape Horn.
The prosecutor claimed five hundred dollars. A number of wit-
nesses were called on both sides. The judge sat upon a rickety
old chair, with his feet perched higher than his head upon a small
mantel over the fire-place, in which a few damp sticks of wood
were keeping each other warm by the aid of a very limited sup-
ply of burning coals. His Honor employed himself in paring his
corns, or scraping his nails, while the " learned counsel " briefly
presented the case, and called the first witness, whom the judge
instructed, without changing his position, to tell all he knew
about the matter, in as few words and as quickly as possible, —
at the same time charging the lawyers not to interrupt him with
questions. This witness was no sooner done, and he had but
little to say, when the counsel called another ; but His Honor in-
formed him that it was unnecessary to pursue the inquiry fur-
ther — the witness had told a plain, straightforward story — the
court understood the merits of the matter, and its mind was
made up. " But," says a lawyer, " you will at least hear us
speak to the points of law ?" " That would be a great waste
of time, which is very precious," replied the judge ; " I award
the plaintiff one hundred and fifty dollars. Mr. Clerk, what is
the next case .^" Thus in less than fifteen minutes a case was/-
equitably disposed of, which in an ordinary court of law might
have occupied at least as many days ; and in the course of the
day, a^ much business was despatched in the same summary
manner, as would occupy most courts an ordinary quarterly
term. In the instance related the counsel for the plaintifi" pock-
eted seventy-five dollars of the award, giving his client the bal-
ance, who was thus well paid for all the services he had rendered.
Young lawyers, however, were not pleased with this summary
method of disposing of business. To these the opportunity of
making a speech, the tendency of which is usually to render a

240 ANNALS OF SAN FEANCISCO.

clear case obscure, though it doubtless serves to display the ex-
tent of their wisdom and intelligence, is of quite as much conse-
quence as meat and drink to other people. They could not live
without it. Hence, Judge Almond, who deprived them of this
exquisite enjoyment, was no favorite with them. On one occa-
sion after a case had been decided, in the usual way, the defeated
attorney commenced reading aloud from a book he held in his
hand. The judge abruptly turned round, and reminded him that
judgment had been rendered, and all further remarks were use-
less. " I am aware of that,'' said the sprightly lawyer ; " but I
thought I would simply read a passage or two to convince you
what an old fool Blackstone was." The anecdote was not bad,
whether well applied or not, and even though it lacked origi-
nality.

The greater part of the business of Judge Almond's court was
of a similar character, viz., the settling of claims against owners
and masters of ships, instituted by their passengers or crews ; and
as the decisions were generally against the defendants, it was often
maliciously remarked that the judgments of the court were always
given against those who were best able to pay the costs. This
might have been true, though not in the sense intended ; for in
these cases, the parties most competent to pay were almost in-
variably the parties at fault. It was a well-known fact, that
during the first great rush of emigration to California, the most
shameless impositions were practised upon passengers by shipping
merchants and their agents. Vessels that had long been consid-
ered unseaworthy were hastily fitted up, without proper accom-
^modations or provisions, and sent on a most dangerous voyage,
without even a reasonable expectation in some instances of their
reaching their place of destination, with passengers who had been
solemnly jDromised every needed comfort. And, when at sea,
they first discovered how they had been deceived, and began to
proclaim their grievances, they were merely laughed and scoffed
at by the brutal officers appointed (because of their peculiar
qualifications for that purpose) to carry out the designs of their
employers. These men had practised similar impositions with
impunity often before ; for how or Avhere could a poor sailor or
emigrant passenger obtain satisfaction for wrongs suffered at sea,

FIRST GREAT FIRE. 241

when the courts, even if appealed to, were so tardy in their
movements that the witnesses disappeared before an investigation
could take place, or the complainant was subjected to expenses
which he had no possible means to defray ? Owners and mas-
ters of vessels never supposed that in California, where every
thing was in a rude and unsettled condition, they would be })un-
ished for offences which had been winked at, if not sanctioned,
by the legal authorities in the oldest and best regulated commu-
nities ; hence, they were more reckless, bold and insolent than
ever in sending their almost worthless ships around Cape Horn.
But they were mistaken. Suits, well founded, were constantly
brought against them by the passengers and crews of vessels ar-
riving at San Francisco, and heavy fines and costs imposed for
the practice of mean impositions and tyrannical abuses ; until at
leno-th, Judsre Almond's court became such a terror to merchants
and captains of ships, that they would sooner compromise, even
at a sacrifice, a disputed point with a sailor or passenger, than
submit the case to the judgment of His Honor.

December 14th. — An edition of the " Alta California" is
published tri-weekly ; the old weekly issue being also continued.

December 24th. — This morning, about six o'clock, the awful
cry oi fire was raised in the city, and in a few hours property
valued at more than a million of dollars was totally destroyed.
The fire began in Dennison's Exchange, about the middle of the
eastern side of the plaza, and spreading both ways, consumed
nearly all that side of the square, and the whole line of build-
ings on the south side of Washington street, between Montgom-
ery and Kearny streets. This was the first of the great fires
which devastated San Francisco ; and it was speedily to be fol-
lowed by still more extensive and disastrous occurrences of a
similar character. Something of the kind had long been antici-
pated by those who considered the light, combustible materials
of which the whole town was constructed. That the flames did
not spread further was in a great measure owing to the judicious
steps early taken by the municipal authorities in pulling down,
or blowing up with gunpowder, the houses at the extremity of
the conflagration. Scarcely were the ashes cold when prepara-
tions were made to erect new buildings on the old sites ; and in
16

242

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

several cases within a few days, and in all, within a few weeks,
the place was covered as densely as before with houses of every
kind. These, like those that had just been destroyed, and like
nearly all around, were chiefly composed of wood and canvas, and
presented fresh fuel to the great coming conflagrations.

Dennison's; Exchange, awl Parker House, before tbe fire, December, 1849.

The first fire of any consequence that had previously oc-
curred in the place broke out in January of this year, when the
" Shades Hotel" was destroyed. In June following, the ship
" Philadelphia" was burned in the harbor, as preparations were
being made for her sailing to the Sandwich Islands.

CHAPTER IX.

1849.

Increase of population — No proper homes.— Character of the houses. — Condition of the streets. —
Kin|iIoyments of tlie people. — Every thing in apparent confusion; still nobody idle, and much
business accoin|ilislied. — How the inhabitants lived. — Money rapi<lly made and freely spent —
Gamblins. — Shipping deserted. — Extravagantly high prices obtained for every thing. — Rents and
wages. — Tlie mines tlic source of all the wealth. — Destitution, sickness and death. — Increase of
crime — Aspect of the Plaza. — Mixed character of the inhabitants. — The Post-office. — A pleasant
prosi>ect

The populatiou of the State, and of San Francisco in particular,
had been largely increasing during the last six months. Between
the 1st of January, 1849, and the 30th of June following, it was
estimated that fifteen thousand had been added to the population
of the country ; of which number nearly ten thousand came by
sea, and landed at San Francisco. Only about two hundred of
these were females. The next half year gave an average of four
thousand immigrants per month, by sea alone, about five hundred
of whom, in all, were females ; and the whole of which numbers
landed at San Francisco. In the early part of 1849, the arrivals
were piincipally from Chili, Mexico, and other countries on the
Pacific coasts of America ; but later in the year, an immense
number of Americans came direct from the Atlantic States,
around Cape Horn, or by way of Panama, while many foreigners
also arrived from China and from various parts of Europe.
Hitherto the departures were comparatively few. Altogether
nearly forty thousand immigrants landed at San Francisco during
1849. Besides that great number, some three thousand or four
thousand seamen deserted from the many hundred ships lying in
the bay. Probably two-thirds of all these proceeded to the
mines, or to various parts of the interior ; but, on the other hand,
numerous fortunate diggers, or those who had tried gold digging
and been disappointed, visited town, to spend their gains, recruit

244

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

their health, or follow out some new pursuit there. It will be
remembered also that somewhere about thirty thousand Ameri-
can immigrants had reached California across the plains, many
of whom ultimately settled in San Francisco. Therefoi-e, it may
be reasonably estimated, that, at the close of 1849, the population
of the town numbered, at least, twenty, and probably nearer

Muddy Streets.

twenty-five thousand souls. A very small proportion of these
Were females — a still smaller one, children of either sex ; while
the vast majority of inhabitants were adult males, in the early
prime of manhood. This circumstance naturally tended to give
a peculiar character to the aspect of the place and habits of the
people.

There was no such thing as a liome to be found. Scarcely
even a proper house could be seen. Both dwellings and places
of business were either common canvas tents, or small rough
board shanties, or frame buildings of one story. Only the great

EMPLOYMENTS OF THE PEOPLE. 245

gambling saloons, the hotels, restaurants, and a few public build-
ings and stores had any pretensions to size, comfort or elegance.
The site on which the town is built was then still covered with
numberless sand-hills. The streets were therefore uneven and ir-
regular. By the continued passage of men, and of horsee and
drays with building materials and goods, while the rainy season
(which commenced earlier than usual, and was remarkably severe)
xvas shedding; torrents from the clouds, the different thoroushtares
were soon so cut up as to become almost, if not quite impassable.
Indeed both horse, or mule and dray were sometimes literally
swallowed up in the mud, while their owner narrowly escaped a
similar fate. The town authorities caused numberless cart loads
of brushwood and limbs of trees to be cut from the surroundinsr
hills, and thrown into the streets ; but these only answered a
limited and temporary purpose. The difficulty could not thus
be remedied. Nobody troubled himself to remove any rubbish
from the way ; but inmates of tents and houses satisfied them-
selves with placing a few planks, tobacco-boxes, bags of coffee,
barrels of spoiled provisions, or any other available object, across
and along the worst parts of the roads, to enable them safely to
reach their own dwellings. It was not for every body, however,
to attempt to navigate these perilous places, or hope to keep on
the narrow, slipper}', unsteady, and often interrupted path which
spanned the unfathomed abysses of mud and water which lay on
all sides. Lanterns were indispensable to pedestrians at night,
and even in daylight not a few would lose their footing, and find
it difficult to extricate themselves from their unpleasant predica-
ments.

In those miserable apologies for houses, suiTounded by heaps
and patches of filth, mud and stagnant water, the strange mixed
population carried on business, after a fashion. It is not to be
sui)posed that people could or did manage matters in the strict
orderly manner of older communities. Very few were following
that particular business to which they had been bred, or for
which they were best fitted by nature. Every immigrant on
landing at San Francisco became a new man in his own estima-
tion, and was prepared to undertake any thing or any piece of
business whatsoever. And truly he did it ; but it was with a

246 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

deal of noise, bustle and unnecessary confusion. The great re-
cognized orders of society were tumbled topsy-turvy. Doctors
and dentists became draymen, or barbers, or shoe-blacks ; law-
yers, brokers and clerks, turned waiters, or auctioneers, or jjerhaps
butchers ; merchants tried laboring and lumping, while laborers
and lumpers changed to merchants. The idlest might be tempt-
ed, and the weakest were able, to do something — to drive a nail
in frame buildings, lead a burdened mule, keep a stall, ring a
bell, or run a message. Adventurers, merchants, lawyers, clerks,
tradesmen, mechanics, and every class in turn kept lodging-houses,
eating and drinking houses, billiard rooms and gambling saloons, or
single tables at these ; they dabbled in " beach and water lots,"
fifty-vara blocks, and new town allotments over the whole coun-
try ; speculated in flour, beef, pork and potatoes ; in lumber and
other building materials ; in dry goods and soft, hard goods and
wet ; bought and sold, wholesale and retail, and were ready to
change their occupation and embark in some new nondescript
undertaking after two minutes' consideration. All things seemed
in the utmost disorder. The streets and passages, such as they
were, and the inside of tents and houses, were heaped with all
sorts of goods and lumber. There seemed no method in any
thing. People bustled and jostled against each other, bawled,
railed and fought, cursed and swore, sweated and labored lustily,
and somehow the work was done. A spectator would have im-
agined the confusion inextricable, but soon had reason to change
his opinion. Every body was busy, and knew very well what he
himself had to do. Heaps of goods disappeared, as if by magic,
and new heaps appeared in their place. Where there was a va-
cant piece of ground one day, the next saw it covered with half
a dozen tents or shanties. Horses, mules and oxen forced a way
through, across, and over every obstruction in the streets ; and
men waded and toiled after them. Hundreds of rude houses and
tents were daily in the course of erection ; they nestled between
the sand-hills, covered their tops, and climbed the heights to the
north and west of the town.

As we have said, there were no homes at this period in San
Francisco, and time was too precious for any one to stay within
doors to cook victuals. Consequently an immense majority of the

MANNER OF LIVING.

247

people took their meals at restaurants, boarding-houses and hotels
— the number of which was naturally therefore very great ; while
many lodged as well as boarded at such places. Many of these
were indeed miserable hovels, which showed only bad fare and
worse attendance, dirt, discomfort and high prices. A few others
again were of a superior class ; but, of course, still higher

Lodging Iloom.

charges had to be made for the better accommodation. At best
all were inconveniently crowded, heated and disagreeable. The
whole population was constantly moving, and always visible,
which added greatly to its apparent numbers. If only people
did not sleep in public, they at least w^orked, eat, and amused
themselves in crowds. But even at night, they lay from half a
dozen to two score in a room, on the floor, in rows of cots, or
contracted and filthy bunks fastened to the weather-boards from
floor to ceiling, in which were immense swarms of fleas and other
troublesome vermin. At some lodging-houses and hotels, every

248 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

superficial inch — on floor, tables, benches, shelves, and beds, was
covered with a portion of weary humanity.

While wages and profits were so high, and there was no com-
fort at their sleeping quarters, men spent money freely at differ-
ent places of riotous excess, and were indeed forced to pass their
hours of leisure or recreation at drinking bars, billiard rooms and
gambling saloons. Such places were accordingly crowded with a
motley crew, who drank, swore, and gamed to their hearts' con-
tent. Every body did so; and that circumstance was a sufficient
excuse, if one were needed, to the neophyte in debauchery. To
vary amusements, occasionally a fancy-dress ball or masquerade
would be announced at high prices. There the most extraordi-
nary scenes were exhibited, as might have been expected where
the actors and dancers were chiefly hot-headed young men, flush
of money and half frantic with excitement, and lewd girls freed
from the necessity of all moral restraint. A concert or a lecture
would at other times help to entertain the weary spirits of the
town. But of all their haunts, the gambling saloons were the
most notorious and best patronized.

Gambling was a peculiar feature of San Francisco at this
time. It was the amusement — the grand occupation of many
classes — apparently the life and soul of the place. There were
hundreds of gambling saloons in the town. The bar-room of every
hotel and public house presented its tables to attract the idle,
the eager and covetous. Monte, faro, roulette, rondo, rouge et
noir and vingt-un, were the games chiefly played. In the larger
saloons, beautiful and well-dressed women dealt out the cards or
turned the roulette wheel, while lascivious pictures hung on the
walls. A band of music and numberless blazing lamps gave an-
imation and a feeling of joyous rapture to the scene. No wonder
the unwary visitor was tempted and fell, before he had time to
awake from the pleasing delusion. To make a fortune in the
turning of a card was delightful — the very mingled hope and fear
of eventual success was a charming excitement. For the mo-
ment, men felt as great conquerors may be sui)posed some-
times to feel ; they manoiuvred on the green cloth, — the field of
their operations, — thinking their own skill was pluying the game,
when chance alone gave the result. At the end of a long even-

GREAT PREVALENCE OF GAMBLING. 249

ing's campaign of mingled victories and defeats — petty skir-
mishes — they would either draw off their forces to renew the
game next day, or hazard their all, thousands of dollars perhaps,
on the issue of one great battle, and a moment afterwards leave
the table richer or poorer by a moderate fortune. Again and
again, were such campaigns fought, till the excitement and in-
tense desire of playing became chronic. When great sums could
no longer be had, small ones served the same purpose ; and were,
in the end, lost like the others. Gambling became a regular
business ; and those who followed it professionally were really
among the richest, most talented and influential citizens of the
town.

The sums staked were occasionally enormous. One evening
sixteen thousand dollars' worth of gold dust was laid upon a
faro table as a bet. This was lost by the keeper of the table,
who counted out the money to the winner without a murmur,
and continued his business with a cheerful countenance, and ap-
parently with as good spirits as though he had incurred no more
than an ordinary loss. As high as twenty thousand dollars, it is
said, have been risked upon the turn of a card. Five thousand,
three thousand, and one thousand dollars were repeatedly ven-
tured. The ordinary stakes, however, were by no means so high
as these sums — from fiftv cents to five dollars beins the usual
amount ; and thus the common day laborer could lay his moderate
stake as stylishly as a lord. It was only when the rich gamester
was getting desperate, or a half tipsy miner had just come from
the diggings with a handsome " pile," that the larger sums were
put on the cloth. Grenerally speaking, the keepers vf the tables,
or " bankers," had no objection to these heavy stakes ; they knew
the game better than the player, and were well aware of all the
chances in their own favor. But it was scarcely necessary for the
professional gambler to encourage particularly large stakes. The
combined amount of all the usual small ones was very large ;
while every two minutes there was a new game formed, and new
stakes put down. The extensive saloons, in each of which
ten or a dozen such tables might be placed, -were continually
crowded, and around the tables themselves the players often stood
in lines three or four deep, every one viemg with his neighbors

250 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

for the privilege of reaching the board, and staking his money as
fost as the wheel and ball conld be rolled or the card turned.
The professional gamblers, who paid great rents for the right
of placing their tables in these saloons, made large fortunes by
the business. Their tables were ])iled with heaps of gold and
silver coin, with bags of gold dust, and lumps of the pure metal,
to tempt the gazer. The sight of such treasures, the occasional
success of players, the music, the bustle, heat, drink, greed and
deviltry, all combined to encourage play to an extent limited only
by the great wealth of the community. Judges and clergymen,
physicians and advocates, merchants and clerks, contractors,
shopkeepers, tradesmen, mechanics and laborers, miners and
farmers, all adventurers in their kind — every one elbowed his
way to the gaming-table, and unblushingly threw down his
o-olden or silver stake. The whole of the eastern side of Ports-
mouth Square, three-fourths of the northern, and a portion of
the southern sides were occupied by buildings specially devoted
to gambling. At these portions of the plaza were perhaps the
greater saloons, but all around the neighborhood there were num-
berless other places, where the same system was carried on, and
where the proceedings were exposed to the careless look of every
passer-by.

While such scenes, in hundreds of distinct places, were night
and day being acted in public, the better or richer classes, who at
first had openly appeared and gambled among the crowds at the
general saloons, began to separate and confine themselves to semi-
private play in the rear of the Parker House, and at similar
places. There, if the external excitement of moving crowds and
music was wanting, the interest in the sport arising from larger
stakes was correspondingly increased, if that were possible. The
amounts ventured in such secluded circles were immense ; and
almost surpass belief Men had come to California for gold ;
and, by hook or by crook, gold they would have. It was a lair
and honest game, they thought, to hazard one's own money
against that of another. Therefore, they staked and lost —
staked and won — till in the end they were rich indeed, or penni-
less. But poor or rich, the speculative spirit continued — (there
was surely something infectious in the air !) — and either in direct

GREAT PREVALENCE OF GAMBLING.

251

gambling, or in nearly similar operations in mercantile, land-job-
bing, or general business, the inhabitants of San Francisco, at
this period of its history, seemed to be one great horde of game-
sters. There were exceptions indeed, and some men scorned to
enter a gambling saloon or touch a card, but these were too few
comparatively to be specially noticed in the general hubbub and
speculative disposition of the place.

Parker Ilouse when first opened.

Who can tell the joy, the hope, the triumph, or the fear,
misery and ruin of the busy gamester ? It is not avarice alone
that urges his course — for we often find the professed gambler
careless of money, liberal and generous to excess. There is
mental excitement — personal victory — riches, and consequent
power, honor and happiness in the game. Other passions have
their moments of excitement and ecstasy ; but perhaps few have
more blissful ones than the uncontrollable spirit of play. Let
cold-blooded, lethargic people, who condemn the practice — for it
is still a pernicious vice — consider the temptations and pleasure, as

252 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

well as the evils and crimes it induces, and withhold their indis-
crirainating censures against those who have fallen victims to it.
Some countries indulge in national vices — it may be intoxication
or gambling, gross superstition or fanaticism. But no man can
know all the peculiar circumstances and temptations that lead to
wrong-doing ; and no man is so personally and morally pure that
he is entitled to throw a stone at the offender. We would not
seek to excuse the San Franciscans of those days for indulging
in gambling ; but we think some palliation might be found for
their conduct in the anomalous circumstances in which they were
placed, and much allowance made for their temptation and fall.
The same speculative spirit continues, although in a much less
degree. There are still many public gaming tables, open every
day of the week, at nearly all hours ; but the stakes are much
smaller than before, and the more respectable classes of the com-
munity do not attend such places. Private play is likewise still
carried on, but to nothing like the extent of former years. The
evil is dying away ; though many years must pass before it be
altogether extinct. So long as San Francisco is without proper
homes, and its population is composed chiefly of adult males,
while enormous profits and wages are usually made in every under-
taking, so long will the only amusements be public ones, and
chief among them, gambling. The richer and more respectable
classes have now such homes and families to enjoy themselves
among, and they no longer gamble. Give an agreeable domestic
circle to the mechanic and the laborer, the general speculator, the
tradesman and the clerk, and they likewise will forsake the public
haunts of dissipation.

We have occasionally alluded to the desertion of seamen.
At the time of which we write there were between three and
four hundred large square-rigged vessels lying in the bay, unable
to leave on account of want of hands. Mfvny of these vessels
never got away, but, in a few years afterwards, rotted and tum-
bled to pieces where they were moored. As stores and dwelling-
houses were much needed, a considerable number of the deserted
ships were drawn high on the beach, and fast imbedded in deep
mud, where they were converted into warehouses and lodgings for
the wants of the crowded population. When subsecjueiitly the

EXTRAORDINARY CIRCULATION OF MONEY. 253

town was extended over the mud flat of the hay, these ships
were for ever closed in hy numherless streets and regularly built
houses both of brick and frame. When, by and by, the runaway
seamen returned from the mines, crews could be more easily had,
though still at a great increase of wages ; and gradually the de-
tained vessels were enabled to leave the port, to make room for
new fleets.

The circulation of money, — partly coin, partly gold dust, —
was very great. Men had a sublime indifference to the smaller
pieces of coin, and talked as familiarly of dollars as people else-
where would of dimes. A copper coin was a strange sight.
There was nothing less received for any service, however slight,
than half a dollar ; for any article, however trifling, than a
twenty-five cent piece. The price of admission to the pit of the
circus was three dollars ; while fifty-five dollars was the cost of a
private box. Thirty dollars a week, or eight dollars a day, was
the sum asked for good boarding ; while the most indifferent
could not be obtained for less than twenty dollars a week. Every
mouthful at dinner might be valued at a dime ; and to get a
hearty meal would cost from two to five dollars, according to the
quality of the viands. Other things were in proportion. Wheat
flour and salt pork sold at forty dollars a barrel ; potatoes and
brown sugar at thirty-seven and a half cents a pound ; a small
loaf of bread, such as might cost four or six cents in the Atlantic
States, brought fifty cents ; and the same price was required for
a pound of cheese ; coarse boots, the only description for which
there was any demand, could not be purchased for less than thirty
to forty dollars a pair, while superior ones of the same class were
sold for more than one hundred dollars. And truly, when one
considered the horrible muddy holes and ragged streets of the
place, boots were reasonable at these rates. It was about as
economical to throw away certain soiled articles of clothing and
buy new ones, as to get the old ones cleaned, when people had
to pay from twelve to twenty dollars for the washing of each
dozen of articles, large or small. Laborers' wages were a dollar
an hour ; skilled mechanics received from twelve to twenty dol-
lars a day. The carpenters struck work because they were get-
ting only twelve dollars a day, and insisted on being paid sixteen.

254: ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

Their employers then offered fourteen dollars a day, for a limited
time, and afterwards an increase. Every brick in a house was
roughly estimated to cost a dollar, one way and another, before
the building was finished. Lumber rose to five hundred dollars
per thousand feet.

Rents were correspondingly enormous. Three thousand dol-
lars a month, in advance, was charged for a single store, of limited
dimensions, and rudely constructed of rough boards. A certain
two story frame building, known as the " Parker House," and
situated on Kearny street, facing the plaza, paid its owners one
hundred and twenty thousand dollars a year in rents. Of this
sum, somewhere about sixty thousand dollars was paid by gam-
blers, who occupied nearly the whole of the second floor. The
"El Dorado," a gambling saloon, which adjoined the Parker House
on the right, at the corner of Washington street, and which was
only a canvas tent of moderate size, brought at the rate of forty
thousand dollars per annum. At another corner of the plaza a
small building, which might have made a stable for half a-dozen
horses, was possessed by Wright & Co., brokers, under the name
of the Miners' Bank, at a rent of seventy-five thousand dollars.
The United States Hotel paid thirty-six thousand dollars ; a
mercantile establishment, for a one-story building, of twenty feet
front, paid forty thousand dollars, and seven thousand dollars
per month was paid for the Custom House. The interest of bor-
rowed money was rated by the same scale. From eight to fifteen
per cent, per month, with the addition of real security, was regu-
larly given, in advance, for the use of money. And people paid these
enormous wages, rents and interests ; and still made fortunes to
themselves ! Real estate, that but a few years before was of little
more worth than an old song, now brought amazing prices. From
plain twelve dollars for fifty-vara lots, prices gradually rose to
hundreds, thousands and tens of thousands of dollars ; so that
large holders of such properties became on a sudden millionnaires.
Shippers in foreign countries realized large fortunes at first by
their ventures to California ; and if, ere long, the expenses were
so heavy and the wholesale prices of goods, by excessive supply
and competition, dwindled so low that sometimes they would not
pay landing or storage charges, why, still the commission agents

EXTRAORDINARY CIRCULATION OF MONEY.

255

of San Francisco, and the host of interior merchants, shopkeep-
ers and other retail dealers, were doing a thriving business, and
accumulating large sums. The holder of every office in the State
and municipality was paid generously. There was no niggardli-
ness in such things. A religious bjdy, whose clergymen are
seldom in the habit of receiving extravagant salaries, took the

'^^"^^'"c^:.;.-^

Custom House on the Plaza.

support of their minister on themselves, and voted him the
princely allowance of ten thousand dollars per annum ! Clerks
and underlings were treated in the same handsome manner.
The great sums, forming the total of such wages, salaries and
profits, were always rapidly passing from hand to hand, and came
and went, and finally disappeared in gambling-saloons and
billiard rooms, at bars and in brothels, in land-jobbing, building
and mercantile speculations, in every kind of personal profusion,
extravagance and debauchery.

The main-spring of all this bustle and money-making trade

256 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

was the gold mining. Consider, therefore, the mightily enhanced
prices of every article at the diggings ! Gold dust paid for all
foreign supplies, and filled the pockets of every active and shrewd
man besides. Millions' worth of pure gold, in lumps and dust,
reached San Francisco every month. The greater portion was
foiwarded to the Atlantic States and other distant quarters in
payment of supplies ; but, in the transit, much was appropriated
and retained, as currency, among the ever plotting, restless and
" wide-awake " people of San Francisco. Future generations will
see California a rich and prosperous country independently alto-
gether of her mineral wealth ; but in those early days it was the
placers alone that made, and which are still making it what it
appears. All honor then to the sturdy and independent digger,
whose labors are peopling the country, cultivating the fields, build-
ing cities, making roads, covering the ocean and the bays and the
rivers of the land with steamers and great ships, and conferring
riches and happiness not only on the growing population of CaK-
fornia itself, that shall hereafter be numbered by millions instead
of the present hundreds of thousands, but also on millions of in-
dustrious workmen in every quarter of the world !

While labor was so well paid at this period, in San Francisco,
it is a melancholy fact that there was much destitution, sickness,
and even death by want and exposure in the place. Many of the
immigrants had landed in a sickly and emaciated state, ill of scur-
vy and other diseases which their long voyage and hardships had
produced ; and such people could not work. Others had miscal-
culated their own powers and inclinations, and the nature of the
country they had come to, and were either ashamed or unable to
perform honest labor ; while perhaps they were too timid or up-
right to speculate in the variety of strange and often cunning ways
by which other adventurers made a living and fortune. Disap-
pointed diggers, returning from the mines with broken constitu-
tions, swelled the destitute population. They probably lived in
miserable habitations, sleeping often upon the bare earth. Around
them were bustle and lucrative pursuits, while they alone seemed
neglected. Then they lost heart, pined, took sick and died, curs-
ing the country and its gold, and the foolish fancies, that had led
them to it. Many committed suicide in the utter prostration of

MIXED CHARACTER OF THE INHABITANTS. 257

physical strength, in feebleness or disease of mind and absolute
despair. Public meetings were held to consider the destitute sit-
uation of the poor — (strange word for such a country ! yet San
Francisco had its full share of the class), — and large sums were
raised for their support. The Orders of Free Masons and Odd-
FeUows, nobly did their part in the charitable work, and were the
principal means by which now, and at a later period, hundreds of
suffering beings were saved from a miserable end, or their remains
decently interred after death.

San Francisco was like the scene of a great battle. There
were victorious warriors braving and flaunting on all sides, while
hope swelled the breast of every unwounded soldier. But, un-
heeded amid the crash and confusion of the strife, lay the wound-
ed and dying, who had failed or been suddenly struck down in the
mel'e. As in the case of other battles, there were likewise secret
bands of unmanly ruflSans, who attacked and plundered all sides
ahke. These were the thieves, burglars and murderers of the
community, the " hounds " of recent times and their legitimate
successors, — a large and fearful class indeed, — daily increasing in
numbers, boldness and extent of depredation and crime. To their
wickedness were afterwards ascribed, some of the extensive con-
flagrations which so repeatedly laid waste the most valuable por-
tions of the growing town ; and under cover of the alarm and con-
fusion produced by which events, robberies could be carried on
with impunity. What mattered it though millions' worth of
property were consumed to enable the fire-raising villain to steal
a few thousand dollars ? He had still the few thousand dollars,
and the universe might go to blazes for aught that he cared. In
this manner, doubtless reasoned the " Sydney coves," and the
other desperate and criminal adventurers with which the town was
now infested. The "Vigilance Committee" had not yet arisen
to terrify the wretches into good behavior.

The every-day aspect of the plaza and streets was of the most
curious and interesting kind. Take the plaza, on a fine day, for
a picture of the people. All races were represented. There were
hordes of long pig-tailed, blear-eyed, rank-smelling Chinese, with
their yellow faces and blue garbs ; single dandy black fellows, of
nearly as bad an odor, who strutted as only the negro can strut,
17

258 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

in holiday clothes and clean white shirt ; a few diminutive fiery-
eyed Malays, from the western archipelago, and some handsome
Kanakas from the Sandwich Islands ; jet-black, straight featured,
Abyssinians ; hideously tattooed New Zealanders ; Feejee sailors
and even the secluded Japanese, short, thick, clumsy, ever-bow-
ing, jacketed fellows ; the people of the many races of Hindoo
land ; Russians with furs and sables ; a stray, turbaned, stately
Turk or two, and occasionally a half naked shivering Indian ; mul-
titudes of the Spanish race from every country of the Americas,
partly pure, partly crossed with red blood, — Chilians, Peruvians
and Mexicans, all with different shades of the same swarthy com-
plexion, black-eyed and well-featured, proud of their beards and
moustaches, their grease, dirt, and eternal gaudy serapes or darker
cloaks ; Spaniards from the mother country, more dignified, polite
and pompous than even their old colonial brethren ; " greasers,"
too, like them ; great numbers of tall, goat-cliinned, smooth-
cheeked, oily-locked, lank-\dsaged, tobacco-chewing, large-limbed
and featured, rough, care-worn, careless Americans from every
State of the Union, dressed independently in every variety of garb,
not caring a fig what people thought of them, but determined to
"do the thing handsomely," and "go ahead;" fat, conceited,
comfortable Englishmen, who pretended to compete in shrewdness
with the subtle Yankee — as if it were not the " manifest destiny"
of Jonathan, every where, but especially on his own ground, to
outshine John ! Then there were bands of gay, easy-principled,
philosophical Germans, Italians and Frenchmen of every cut and
figure, their faces covered with hair, and with strange habiliments
on their persons, and among whom might be particularly remark-
ed numbers of thick-Hpped, hook-nosed, ox-eyed, cunning, oily
Jews. Among this vast motley crowd scarcely could two hats be
found ahke in material, size and shape ; scarcely could two men
be found otherwise dressed alike. The long-legged boot, with
every variety of colored top, the buckled-up trousers, serapes or
cloaks, pea-jackets and broad-brimmed or slouched hats and glazed
caps, were perhaps the commonest articles of dress. The fortunate
miner with his dirty garments and hirsute face, could be readily
distinguished from all others. He cared not to dress or cleanse
himself properly, till the bars and gambhng saloons had been

THE POST-OFFICE. 259

duly visited, and his hard won gains were spent. Then did he
shake, shave and wash himself, and start again for the golden
placers.

The eye was delighted with the varieties of costume, and more
readily distinguished the wearers ; while the ear was only con-
founded with the babble of unknown, and to it harsh, guttural
and meaningless sounds which flowed from every mouth, and
where all alike talked loudly, and many fui'iously gesticulated.
Thus the people passed in pairs or in crowds — they loitered, stood
still, and moved on again, wliile other parties jostled beside and
around them. A horse or a bullock breaking loose would dash
along the way, and make a momentary struggle and flight ; but
soon again the scene resumed its old appearance. On two, if not
three sides of the plaza, were the open doors of the " hells " of
San Francisco, where gamblers, and others for amusement, passed
out and in during the whole day. On the other portions stood
hotels, stores and offices, the custom-house and courts of law, all
thronged with numerous visitors. The little open space which
was left by the crowds we have been describing, was occupied by a
multitude of nondescript objects, by horses, mules and oxen drag-
ging burdens along, by cars and carriages of various kinds, boys
at play, stalls with sweetmeats, newspapers, prints, toys and other
trifling articles of merchandise. At times a few CaUfornians or
sonie foreigners would appear on prancing steeds, the horses ca-
parisoned with gaudy harness and brightly-colored saddle-cloths,
while little bells jingled as they moved along. The riders wore
strange leathern aprons before the legs, huge spurs on the heels,
and perhaps had a cloak picturesquely thrown across their shoul-
ders. Occasionally, too, even at this early period, the crowds
would make way for the passage of a richly dressed woman, sweep-
ing along, apparently proud of being recognized as one of frail
character, or several together of the same class, mounted on spirited
horses, and dashing fm-iously by, dressed in long riding skirts, or
what was quite as common, in male attire.

We cannot leave this part of our- subject without alluding to
the scenes that daily occm-red at the post-office, which was situa-
ted at the corner of Pike and Clay streets. Every body, of course,
was anxiously expecting letters from home ; and every body has-

260

ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

tened to look after them. The post-office was but a small build-
ing, and could neither accommodate many assistants and clerks
inside, nor afford much standing-room to make inquiries without.
When, therefore, soon after the arrival of the mail from the At-
lantic States, which occurred but once a month, people came for
their wished-for letters, exhibitions of an interesting character

The Post Office, corner of Pike and CTay streets.

were sure to transpire. To avoid riots and confusion, several reg-
ular lines were formed from the delivery windows, at the end of
which applicants for letters took places as they arrived. So anx-
ious were many to receive their epistles, that they posted them-
selves in the evening of one day to be early at the window on the
morning of the next, standing all night in the mud, with a heavy
rain pouring down upon their heads. The hues extended a great
distance down Clay street to the plaza, and along Pike street, even
across Sacramento street to the tents among the chapparel. Hours

THE POST-OFFICE. 261

therefore, would elapse, before it came to one's turn to reach the
window. To save such delay, sometimes people would employ
and handsomely pay others to preserve places for them, which they
would occupy, in room of their assistants, when they were approach-
ing the loop-holes where the delivery clerks stood. Ten and
twenty dollars were often paid for accommodation in this way.
Indeed, many clever persons made large sums regularly by such
work, by securing good places in the line early, never intending to
seek letters for themselves, but only to sell their right of position
to some richer man who was in haste, and regarded more his time
than money. Some of these eager apjjlicants had not heard from
their far distant homes for many long months, and their anxious
solicitude was even painful. It was therefore exceedingly distress-
ing to mark the despondency with which many would turn away
upon hearing from the delivery clerks the oft-repeated and much-
dreaded sentence, " There is nothing here for you." On the other
hand, it was equally pleasing to observe the cheerful and triumph-
ant smile, not unfrequently accompanied with a loud exclamation
of joy, that would light up the countenance of the successful appH-
cant, who hastens from the window, and as soon as he can force a
passage through the crowd, tears open and commences to read the
more than welcome letter, every word of which awakens in his
mind some tender reminiscence. He is now communing with the
dearest idols of liis heart. He knows no feelings but those of
kindness and affection. The lines upon which his eyes are rivet-
ed, were written perhaps by an absent wife, and they have made
him already a better man than he was an hour before. She is
describing the sadness of the solitude his absence has occasioned,
and urging him with all a true woman's fondness, to hasten back
to the home which needs but his presence to be one of unmingled
happiness. She tells him of their innocent children — of their im-
proving loveliness — and how she has taught them in their daily
prayers to lisp their absent father's name. Look close into the
reader's face, and the nature of his emotions will not be mistaken.
There is an unusual twitching of the muscles of the mouth, a
growing dimness of the eyes, and tears are rapidly tracing down
the furrows of his sunburnt cheeks. He is too much absorbed in
his interesting occupation to know or care that he is an object of

262 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

curious observation. What matters it to him what others think
of his apparent weakness ? It is a weakness of which he need not
be ashamed. He at length carefully folds the paper and carries
it to his comfortless abode, where he reads it over and over again,
until by constant handling, and the tears that fall upon it, its
characters become illegible. That night does not find him in the
o-amblino--house, nor elsewhere in search of amusement ; but in
his own wretched chamber, he is silently communing in spirit with
the loved ones at home. Such scenes were of hourly occurrence,
and tended to exhibit the better portion of human nature, which
neither the thirst for gold nor feverish excitement of the place could
entirely destroy.

Turning from these busy scenes and ascending a neighboring
height, the wearied spectator beheld one of the most peaceful
prospects and pleasant sights of the world. It was winter by the
calendar ; but the winters of California are the springs and early
summers of less favored lands in northern latitudes. Beneath
was the little j^andemonium he had left, where the devil-inspired
worshippers of mammon burrowed in, and out, and about, holes
and huts of canvas and wood ; but the noise of whose never-ceas-
ing labors reached not his ears. Beyond the narrow limits of the
town were the calm waters of the bay, on which floated, swan-
like, hundreds of trim and well-proportioned ships, all motionless,
and deserted by their crews. Farther out was the high lying
island of Yerba Buena, green to the summit. Beyond it lay the
mountains of Contra Costa, likewise arrayed in verdant robes, on
the very tops of which flourished groups of huge redwood trees ;
while far in the distance towered the gray head of Monte Diablo.
The eye wandered to the northern and southern extremities of
the bay, and still gazed on green hills, smooth waters and pictu-
resque islands. It turned oceanward, and saw the Golden Gate
studded with deep laden ships inward bound. The grand
northern shores of the strait rose boldly and brokenly to the
height of nearly three thousand feet, while the lower coast oppo-
site was equally beautiful from the freshness of its fields and
bushes, in the midst of which, and in the most beautiful spot
embraced in the entire view, quietly nestles the presidio, now
the solitary habitation of a small detachment of United States

A PLEASANT PROSPECT.

263

soldiery. The great Pacific might be dimly seen beneath the
dense veil of mist that hung miles out at sea opposite the Gate.
To the west and south-west the spectator next looked, and ad-
mired the Blue Mountain and the Pass that sheltered the quiet

The Presidio of San Francisco.

valley of the mission, and the long ridges of the Sierra San Bru-
no, their green color sinking into a faint blue as they were seen
more distantly. Overhead was a sky as blue and as beautiful as
imagination could picture ; the air was fresh and balmy ; the
earth beneath one's feet, soft and fragrant with new herbage and
flowering shrubs ; while the Ufe-giving sun shed over all its own
radiance and joy. All was clear and sharp-defined ; all was tran-
quil and motionless, except the flight of innumerable white and
gray- winged gulls, that soared and fluttered among the deserted
shipping in the cove before the town.

CHAPTER X.
1850.

Great sale of water lots. — An election day. — Newspapers. — Approval by the aynntamiento of the city
charter, and limits of San Francisco. — Squatter difficulty at Eincon Point. — Political meeting on
Portsmouth Square. — The Colton grants. — First county election. — Col. John C. Hayes elected
Slieriff. — City Charter adopted by the State Legislature. — First election under the City Charter. —
Changes in the Common Council.

January 3d. — A great sale by the municipal authorities, of
four hundred and thirty-four water lots, which brought $635,130.
This sale had been ordered by the aynntamiento by a resolution
passed on the 3d of October, 1849, in accordance with a procla-
mation of General Kearny, directing three months' notice to have
been previously given.

January 8th. — An election was held for members of the
legislature, alcaldes and ayuntamiento. The interest on these
occasions increased with the population, and the election of to-
day was the most exciting that had yet been held. The weather
was exceedingly unpleasant, the wind blowing a gale, and the
rain pouring down in torrents. The streets were covered with
mud and water so as to render them almost impassable. Still the
neighborhood of the polls was crowded during the entire day with
men and boys, zealous as they well could be in their endeavors to
promote the public welfare. It is one of the glorious conse-
quences of our republican institutions, that at such times, so
many worthy people are always to be found, utterly regardless of
their personal interests, and so entirely devoted to the general
good. Although the excitement ran unusually high, the day
passed off without disturbance, and much good humor was ex-
hibited by the conflicting parties. The voters were numerous ;
every citizen of the United States being entitled to the elective
franchise, and almost all who were here, from every part of the

AN ELECTION DAY. 265

world, claimed to be American citizens. The way to the polls,
for a considerable distance, on either side, was completely blocked
up by roughly dressed men, who thrust their favorite tickets into
the hands of every new comer, with loud exclamations in behalf
of the parties for whom they were working. " Here's for Gear}' ,
and the old council ! " cries one, " Geary and the old council for
ever ! " " For ever is a long day," says another ; " rotation in
office, is my doctrine. The old council has made money enough.
Let's give a new one a chance at the public crib ! " " The old
ones are so fat they can't eat any more ! " exclaims a third ; "we
had better keep them where they are ! " " We have had the
old council long enough ! " vociferates a stout six-footer, wadins:
up to his waist in the mud : " I go for a new council, side-ivalks,
and dean streets! " " You do, do you ? " replies a wag : " then
I guess you will have to go an infernal long ways to find them ! "
" We want another yuntermenter," bawls out a youngster in a red
shirt and tarpaulin hat, and resembling a drowned rat more than
an independent voter : — '* we want another yuntermenter, and
here's the ticket for um ! " " It's a gutterminty that ye want ? "
replies a brawny Irishman ; " then take it, and good luck till ye ! "
giving the luckless wight a toss that sent him sprawling into the
gutter overhead in water : "I am thinking ye won't want another
gutterminty soon, any how ! " With much difficulty the poUing
desk was reached, where other scenes no less amusing were trans-
piring. Around the judges and inspectors were an eager and ex-
cited crowd, some endeavoring to vote and others to prevent them.
"I challenge that man's vote," cries a bystander, as a simple
Sandwich Islander, almost as dark as an African, offered his
ticket. " Then we must swear him ! " says the judge, and the
usual oath was administered. " Where were you born ? " was
the inquiry. " In New York ! " whispered a prompter, and the
answer was given accordingly. " Where did you come from
last ? " " New York," was again the reply. " Where was your
father bom ? " " New York." " In what street did you live ? "
" New York." " Where is New York ? " the judge next inquired.
This was too much for the poor fellow. He knew as much of the
locality and streets of the invisible world as he did of New York.
His prompter, who had brought him there to vote, endeavored

266 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

to instruct him, but without success. His impatient challenger
at length exclaims : " Turn him out, he is a Kanaka ! " and the
vote was rejected. Another and another pressed forward, and
similar questions and just as honest answers were given, and
many a vote was polled, to the right of depositing which the
elector was no more entitled than the poor Kanaka. Still the
election proceeded, and notwithstanding the interest and excite-
ment manifested, the best sort of feehng was preserved through-
out. The polls were closed early in the evening, and the judges
announced the following gentlemen elected to the offices named.
The heaviest ballot cast was in favor of Col. John W. Geary, who
received 3,425 votes : —

State Senator. — David C. Broderick.

3Iember of Assembly. — Samuel J. Clarke.

First Alcalde. — John W. Geary.

Second Alcalde. — Frank Turk.

Ayuntamiento. — A. J. Ellis, Talbot H. Green, Wm. M.
Stewart, W. H. Davis, Samuel Brannan, James S. Graham,
Frank Tilford, F. C. Gray, J. Hagan, M. Crooks, A. M. Van
Nostrand, and Hugh C. Murray.

January 22d. — The "Alta California" is changed into a
daily newspaper, being the first of the kind that has appeared in
California. The weekly issue is likewise continued. The day
following, the " Journal of Commerce " was started as a daily
paper ; and about six weeks later, the " Pacific News " took a
similar form. The " San Francisco Daily Herald " came into
existence on the first of June, and became a very popular journal.
On the first of August following, the " Evening Picayune " also
made its appearance. The latter was the filth daily but the first
evening paper. The " Courier " and the " Balance " followed
soon after, and subsequently many other journals have been de-
veloped in San Francisco and other parts of the country. Some
of these are still in existence, while others after a very brief and
sickly career, perished for want of support. The " Placer Times,"
which was extensively circulated in the mining districts, had been
commenced at Sacramento in April, 1849, and appeared weekly.
This was also converted into a daily newspaper, and was subse-

POLITICAL MEETING ON PORTSMOUTH SQUARE. 267

quently removed to San Francisco. It is a political journal, de-
voted to the interests of the democratic cause.

February 13th. — A charter for the city, previously drafted
and considered, was amended and approved of by the ayuntami-
ento, and Messrs. Hagan and Grreen were instructed to present it
to the representatives of the city for adoption by the legislature.
Bv the first section of the charter it was declared, that " the
limits of the City of San Francisco shall be the same which
bounded the pueblo lands and town of San Francisco ; and its mu-
nicipal jurisdiction shall extend to said limits, and over the wa-
ters of the Bay of San Francisco, for the space of one league
from the shore, including the Islands of Yerba Buena, Los An-
geles, and Alcantraz."

February 28th. — A squatter difficulty occurred at the
Eincon. Most of the land here was held as United States
government reserve, and as such was leased for a limited period
to Mr. Theodore Shillaber. Upon attempting to take possession,
this gentleman found the leased property mostly occupied by
" squatters," the majority of whom were from Sydney. These
refused either to pay rent or vacate the land. Captain Keyes,
therefore, having charge of the presidio, marched to the Eincon
with a company of twenty United States soldiers, and soon de-
molished all the tents and shanties that had been erected on the
government grounds. A Mr. White, one of the leaders among
the squatters, subsequently brought a civil action for damages
against the captain ; but the latter was sustained by the court,
and the case was dismissed, the prosecutor being required to pay
the costs,

March 9th. — Party politics begins to embrace a good share
of public attention, and among the seekers after fame and for-
tune, there is no scarcity of aspirants for political preferment.
It is but lately, however, that party lines have been drawn, and
whigs and democrats, as such, arrayed against each other in their
patriotic efforts to promote the general welfare. But it was
found less difficult to draw these Hues than to rally the forces
under their distinctive self-constituted leaders. There were as
many officers as soldiers to enter the political campaign. At
least, each party was divided into several factions, every faction

268 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

having at its head, of course, men whose claims to public favor
were superior to all others. Concerted action was therefore out
of the question. The democrats had resolved to remedy this
evil, so destructive of their party interests, by uniting or harmo-
nizing all their conflicting elements. To this end a mass meet-
ing was held this afternoon on Portsmouth Square. About one
thousand persons assembled, a band of music played national airs,
and a large and splendid ensign waved gracefully over the
speakers' stand, upon which were stationed officers duly appointed
to conduct the proceedings in proper form. The meeting was
opened with great enthusiasm, and, for a time, every thing gave
promise of the desired result. Several addresses were delivered
with good effect, which were enthusiastically responded to by the
admiring listeners. But a trying moment at length arrived.
The committee chosen to draft resolutions expressive of the feel-
ings and purposes of the democracy, presented their report, and
the resolutions were submitted for passage. These called forth
the factional prejudices of the assembly, which were exhibited in
uproar and confusion. The chairman was unable to decide the
votes, and hence, some of the most boisterous determined to decide
them in a manner peculiar to themselves. What they failed to
accomplish by the power of their lungs, they attempted to effect
by " the force of arms." Blows were liberally bestowed and re-
ceived, and broken heads and bleeding noses were the conse-
quence. The fight commenced on the speakers' stand, and in a
short time, the meeting was divided into a dozen squads, each
taking an active part in the melee. Order was at length restored,
and the mass once more gathered to adopt or reject the resolu-
tions. The chairman again " put the question," and the " ayes "
rang loudly through the air, which were followed no less loudly
by the ''noes." It was impossible to decide whether the " ayes "
or the " noes " were in the ascendency. The holding up of hands
was next resorted to. The " ayes " were told to hold up their
rigid hands, and after them the " noes ; " but many of both par-
ties seemed to imagine that in a matter of such importance, all
hands were right, and consequently held up all the hands they
had, doubtless regretting not having others for the purpose. It
was then suggested that the "whigs" created aU the difficulty,

FIRST COUNTY ELECTION. 269

and they were requested to withdraw. The whigs accordlngiy
fell back, leaving about one-half the assembly behind. Elated
at the sight of their own numbers, they whirled their hats in
triumph over their heads, which was accounted by their opponents
as a signal for attack ; and down they rushed upon the retiring-
force in a perfect torrent, sweeping before them all who were not
levelled with the dust. It was now thought expedient to ad-
journ the meeting, which was effected with "three cheers" for
the democracy, every aspirant for the honors, spoils and profits of
which, internally resolving to support the party whenever its
requirements did not conflict with his personal interests.

March 26th. — ^For some time back there have been much
agitation and discussion on the subject of the " Colton Grants."
It appeal's that Mr. Horace Hawes, prefect of the district of San
Francisco, had chosen to consider that the duties and privileges
of his office were more extensive than had been previously sup-
posed. He had, in particular, instructed Mr Gr. Q. Colton, a
justice of the peace in and for his district, to sell and convey
away the municipal lands, accounting only to himself for the
proceeds of the same. When, afterwards, the Court of First In-
stance, on the petition of the ayuntamiento, granted an injunction
to restrain Mr. Colton from so acting, Mr. Hawes immediately
issued a mandate annulling the said injunction. Mr. Colton
meanwhile had sold or otherwise disposed of a great number of
town allotments, some of them at nominal prices, to various
parties. The ayuntamiento, holding that they alone were the
proper parties to authorize such sales, thereupon determined this
day to prefer against Mr. Hawes a number of charges, founded
upon these and other facts, to the governor of the State ; and
passed a long string of resolutions on the subject. The governor
subsequently suspended Mr. Hawes from performing the duties
of his office ; while the titles to the " Colton Grants," many of
which had been signed in blank, and others were ante-dated,
passed into the courts of law, and were for years afterwards a
fertile source of litigation. In the end, it is believed that they
were altogether found to be invahd.

April 1st. — The first election for county officers. The
principal office to be filled was that of sheriff, for which there

270

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

were three candidates. Col. J. Townes was the regular whig
nominee — Col. J. J. Bryant the nominee of the democratic party
— and the celebrated " Texan Ranger/' Col. John C. Hayes, was
selected by the people as an independent candidate. It was soon
apparent that the contest rested between the two last named.
Col. Bryant was a man of fortune, and was determined to spare
no exertions or expense to secure his election. He was proprietor
of the most extensive and best conducted hotel in the place,
known at that time as the " Bryant House,'' formerly the

^JTC/JCCUD-'iOLL/JV

San Francisco in April 1850, showing Clay street, opposite Portsmouth Square.

" Ward House," which was a great place of resort for politicians,
and where hundreds of the colonel's pretended friends and real
supporters enjoyed, in no slight degree, the advantages of his
generous hospitality. A band of music was daily stationed on
the balcony of the Bryant House after the nomination of its
proprietor, free lunches were served up in the spacious saloon, and J
on this day the building was literally covered with flags, signals.

FIRST COUNTY ELECTION. 271

and banners of every form and beautiful color, while the finest
liquors were gratuitously dispensed at the well-stocked bar to all
who chose to drink. On Saturday afternoon, March 29th, the
friends of Col. Hayes held a mass meeting on the plaza, which
was a large and enthusiastic assembly. After several spirited ad-
dresses had been given, the meeting forrned in procession, and
headed by a band of music, paraded the principal streets, cheer-
ing and being cheered by multitudes of spectators as they passed
along. In the evening the democrats also assembled in the
square, making a truly splendid display. The whole plaza was
covered with men, horses and wagons, and was illuminated with
flaming torches and other lights, which blazed from the speakers'
stand and hundreds of vehicles admirably arranged for effect.
Numerous transparencies, banners and flags added greatly to the
life and splendor of the pageant. Able speakers urged the claims
of the democracy in general, and of Col. Bryant in particular, to
the suflrages of the people, whilst, at regular intervals, cannons
were fired to give eftect and increase the excitement. This meet-
ing also ended in a procession, which traversed the streets to a
late hour of the night. Early this morning the different parties
were in force about the polls, and in due time the judges, inspec-
tors and clerks were chosen and installed in their respective
offices. The election was conducted with more than usual spirit.
At noon it was evident that Col. Hayes was the people's favorite,
which incited to increased efforts the Bryant party. Accordingly
they appeared with another grand display upon the plaza. A
procession of mounted men, and carriages filled with musicians,
with banners and flags waving and floating above them, occupied
the square, and were in a measure, producing the desired effect.
But in the midst of the excitement thus produced. Col. Hayes,
mounted upon a fiery black charger, suddenly appeared, exhibit-
ing some of the finest specimens of horsemanship ever witnessed.
The sight of the hero, as he sat bare-headed and unattended
upon his noble animal, took the people by surprise, and called
forth the admiration and patriotism of the vast multitude of
spectators, from every one of whom shout after shout rent the
air, deadening the sounds of trumpets and drums, and being
heard far and wide over land and sea. Men crowded around him

272 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

on every hand, some seizing the bridle, others clinging to his
clothing and stirrups, and each anxious to obtain a grasp of his
hand. The noise and tumult terrified the spirited beast he strode,
which reared and plunged among the enthusiastic crowd, though
so admirably managed as to do injury to none ; when, at length,
his rider giving him the rein, he dashed into and along the ad-
joining street, followed and greeted by loud huzzas at every step.
This settled the question. The cause of Col. Bryant was aban-
doned, and a vast majority of votes were given in favor of the
" Texan Ranger." The following named parties were elected : —

Sheriff. — John C. Hayes. District Attorney. — Calhoun Benham.

County Judge.' — R. N. Morrison. County Clerk. — John E. Addison.

County Recorder. — J. A. McGlynn. County Assessor. — David M. Chauncey.
County Surveyor. — Wm. W. Eddy. County Coroner. — Edward Gallagher.
County Treasurer. — G. W. Endicott. County Attorney. — T. J. Smith.
Clerk of the Supreme Court. — E. H. Tharp.

Apeil 15th. — The City Charter passed by the State Legisla-
ture. The limits of the city are now declared to be as follows :
— " The southern boundary shall be a line two miles distant in a
southerly direction from the centre of Portsmouth Square, and
which hne shall be a parallel to the street known as Clay street.
The western boundary shall be a line one mile and a half distant
in a westerly direction from the centre of Portsmouth Square,
and which line shall be parallel to the street known as Kearny
street. The northern and eastern boundaries shall be the same
as the County of San Francisco." The city was to be divided
into eight wards by the first council appointed by the charter ;
and for its government were to be elected a Mayor, and Record-
er, a Board of Aldermen and a Board of Assistant Aldermen,
which two boards should be styled the " Common Council," each
consisting of one member from each ward. There was also to be
elected by the city a Treasurer, Comptroller, Street Commission-
er, Collector of City Taxes, City Marshal and City Attorney, and
by each ward two Assessors. As at the time of the first election
mider the charter there were only four wards, it was provided
that two chief and as many assistant Aldermen should be elected
from each, while the same number of Assessors should be chosen.
The municipal officers were to hold ofiice only one year, and new

FIRST ELECTION UNDER THE CITY CHARTER.

273

elections to be made on the fourth Monday of April annually.
The powers and duties of the Common Council and municipal
officers are minutely laid down in the charter.

May 1st. — This day the City Charter was submitted to the
inhabitants for approval, when it was adopted ; and the first
election under its provisions took place. The following candi-
dates were returned as elected : —

Mayor. — John W. Geary.
Recorder. — Frank Tilford.
Marshal. — Malachi Fallon,
City Attorney.— Thos. H. Holt.

Charles Minturn,

Treasurer. — Charles G. Scott.
Comptroller. — Benj. L. Berry.
Ta.v Collector. — Wm. M. Irwin.
Street Commissioner. — Dennis McCarthy.

F. W. Macondray,
D. Gillespie,

A. Bartol,
C. T. Botts,
Wm. Sharron,

Robert B. Hampton,
Halsey Brower,
John Garvey,

Aldermen.

A. A. Selover,
"Wm. Greene,

Assistant Aldermen.
John Maynard,
John P. Van Ness,

Assessors.
John H. Gihon,
Francis C. Bennett,

C. W. Stuart,
Wm. M. Burgoyne,
M. L. Mott.

L. T. Wilson,
A. Morris,
Wm. Corbett

John P. Hafif,
Beverly Miller,
Lewis B. CofHn.

Before the term of election expired, several changes occurred
in the Common Council. Mr. Burgoyne having made a visit to
the Atlantic States immediately after the election, was never
qualified, and his place was declared vacant ; and Mr. Macon-
dray resigned shortly afterwards. Their places were filled on the
27th June by the election of Moses Gr. Leonard and John Mid-
dleton. Mr. Maynard resigned June 24th, and soon afterwards
the resignation of Mr. Botts was accepted ; and a new election
to fiU the vacancies thus occasioned, on the 27th July, resulted
in the choice of George W. Green and James Grant. Subse-
quently Messrs. Gillespie and Leonard retired from the Board of
Aldermen, and Mr. Morris from the Board of Assistants. Their
places were also supplied by election on the 20th January, 1851,
by W. H. V. Cronise and D. G. Kobinson to the first, and George
W. Gibbs to the second Board. We are somewhat particular in
mentioning these changes in the Boards of Aldermen, since the
18

274

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

aifairs of their salaries, and the flimous medals, hereafter noticed,
directed much attention to the individual members.

May 4tli. — The second great fire in San Francisco, when
property to the value of nearly four millions of dollars was sup-
posed to he destroyed. It began about four o'clock in the morn-
ino- in the building on the east side of the place called the

^.^w

Fire of May 4tli, 1850.

United States Exchange ; and before eleven of the forenoon,
three immense blocks of buildings, with a few trifling exceptions,
were totally destroyed. These were the blocks lying between
Kearny, Clay, Montgomery and Washington streets ; and the
two blocks between Dupont, Montgomery, Wasliington and
Jackson streets. A great many buildings were torn down or
blown up by gunpowder to stay the progress of the flames ; and,
among others, nearly the whole erections in Dupont street were
voluntarily destroyed to prevent the conflagration spreading on
that side. While some of the populace readily and untiredly
assisted in extinguishing the flames, others would lend no hand
at the work without being first well paid for it. The police force

FIRST MEETINGS OF THE ALDERMEN.

275

was very efficient in preventing pillage, and preserving order
among the real workers and the idlers at the fire. Circumstances
occurred which led to the strong suspicion, if not moral certainty,
that the fire arose through the agency of incendiaries, and a re-
ward of five thousand dollars was offered by the mayor for their
detection. Several parties were apprehended on suspicion, but
no formal trial took place, and they were shortly afterwards lib-
erated. As in the case
of the former great fire,
on the 24th December
last, new buildings were
begun

JACKSON ST,

to be

WASHINGTON ST.

^^ PORTSMOUTH
1 SaUARE

CLAY ST

Diagram of the burnt district, May 4th, 1850.

erected
while still the sites of —
the old were hot with
smoking ashes. While
even one extremity of —
the old tenement was
still blazing, people were
planning the nature of
the new erection, and
clearing away the embers and rubbish from the other scarcely
extinguished end, to lay the foundation of the intended new pile.
In a wonderfully short time the whole burned space was covered
with new buildings, and looked as if no fire had ever been there ;
although it was generally remarked that these were even more
unsubstantial and inflammable than those which had just been
destroyed.

May 9th. — The two boards of aldermen severally held meet-
ings for the first time at the new City Hall, at the comer of
Kearny and Pacific streets. The principal business of the meet-
ings was to organize, appoint committees, and receive and read a
message from the mayor. This latter was an able and interest-
ing document, containing many truly excellent suggestions in
regard to the interests of the corporation. Its great length pre-
cludes the propriety of its insertion. As the following extract,
however, gives a correct statement of the financial condition of
the city at this important period of its history, its omission
would be inexcusable : —

276 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO,

" The Reports of the Treasurer and Comptroller are herewith suhmitted.
The financial condition of the city is as follows :-^

Amount on second instalment, of sales of water lots, due

April 3d, 1850, $23,049 00

Amount on third instalment, due July 3d, 1850 107,602 00

Amount on fourth instalment, due October 3d, 1850 107,602 00

$238,253 00
, The Report of the Comptroller, up to May 8, 1850, shows
the present liabilities of the city, including the purchase of
the City Hall, to be $199,174 19

Excess over liabilities $ 39,078 81 •'

In the course of this month, several stringent and useful or-
dinances were passed by the common council, which endeavored
to provide means for the better extinguishing of future fires.
One of these ordinances declared that if any person, during a
conflagration, should refuse to assist in extinguisliing the flames,
or in removing goods endangered by the fire to a place of safety,
he should be fined in a sum not less than five, and not exceeding
one hundred dollars. Another ordinance authorized the mayor
to enter into contracts for the digging of Artesian wells, and for
the immediate construction of water reservoirs in various parts of
the city. Another ordained every householder to furnish six
water buckets, to be kept always in readiness for use during the
occurrence of future fires. Such ordinances were all excellent in
their way, though unfortunately they were somewhat late in being
adopted.

CHAPTER XI.
1850.

Third great fire. — Aldermen's salaries. — Indignation meetings. — Veto message of the mayor. — Ship-
ping in San Francisco Bay. — Celebration of tlie Fourth of July. — The Oregon Liberty Pole. —
Custom-house at the corner of California and Montgomery sti'eets. —Departure from California of
General Riley. — Society of California Pioneers. — Squatter riots at Sacramento. — Suffering immi-
grants. — Presentation of Chinese Books. — Funeral ceremonies on occasion of the death of Presi-
dent Taylor. — A Chinese document

June 14th. — Scarcely had the citizens time to breathe after their
recent exertions at the fire of the 4th of May, and the labors
which followed in erecting new buildings in room of those de-
stroyed, when again the terrible cry oi fire rang in their ears.
This was the third conflagration to which the city had been sub-
jected, and its ravages exceeded even those of the two previous
great fires united, being estimated at nearly five millions' worth
of property. These successive losses would surely have broken
the spirit of any people but Americans, and for a time indeed
sank even theirs. But in proportion to the unusual depression
was the almost immediate reaction, and the ruined citizens began
forthwith to lay the foundations of new fortunes instead of those
so cruelly destroyed. The fire, which arose from some defect in
the chimney of the house where it broke out, began about eight
o'clock in the morning, in a bakery, which was in a small wooden
back building, between Sacramento and Clay streets, and in the
rear of the Merchants' Hotel, The wind was high at the time,
and the flames soon spread on all sides. In a few hours, the
whole space situated between Clay, California and Kearny streets,
down to the edge of the water, was one mass of flame ; and, with
few exceptions, all the buildings and goods lying within these
extensive bounds, were totally consumed. The individual losses
were very severe ; and these occurring so shortly after the two

278 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

preceding great fires, bad the effect of reducing many citizens,
previously wealthy, to poverty. But as the spider, whose web
is again and again destroyed, will continue to spin new ones
while an atom of material or a spark of life remains in its body,
so did the inhabitants set themselves industriously to work to
rear new houses and a new town. In the space of a few weeks
the burned districts were covered over with other buildings, many
of which were erected of far more substantial materials than
before. Sad experience had taught the people that although the
cost of fire-proof, brick structures was much greater at first than
the old wooden ones, yet in the end, they were cheaper and better.
From this time forward, we therefore begin to notice, that the
street architecture gradually assumed a new and grander appear-
ance. This was one good consequence of the repeated fires ;
while another was the immediate formation and organization of
numerous hook and ladder, engine and hose companies. Many
municipal ordinances regarding these companies and the estab-
lishment and completion of wells and reservoirs in various parts
of the city, were hkewise the result of these successive disasters.
During all this month, the community was kept in a state of
excessive excitement, arising from certain extraordinary proceed-
ings on the part of the Common Council. The members had not
been long in office, when they nearly unanimously passed an ordi-
nance providing for the payment of certain salaries to themselves
and the chief municipal officers. The mayor, recorder, and some
others, were to be paid annually the sum of ten thousand dollars,
while the sixteen principal and assistant aldermen were each to
receive six thousand. The salaries of the municipal officials were
perhaps not more than were necessary at the period, since these
gentlemen had really much work to do, while all their time was
supposed to be passed in the service of the city ; but it was con-
sidered by the citizens generally, that to bestow six thousand dol-
lars a year upon sixteen private persons, for only two evening
meetings in each week, was extravagant and ridiculous. As one
of the speakers at a subsequent public meeting said, people in
foreign countries, when they heard of such a thing, would be apt
to call it " a California lie." More especially the proposed alder-
manic allowance seemed monstrous and unjust, from the fact that

INDIGNATION MEETINGS. 279

the city was then much embaiTassed in pecuniary affairs, and that
certain most obnoxious and heavy taxes were proposed to be laid
upon the inhabitants.

Many public meetings of the citizens were held on the sub-
ject, at which resolutions strongly condemnatory of the council's
proceedings were passed. One of these meetings took place on
the plaza on the evening of the 5th of June, and was the largest
that had ever assembled in San Francisco for any purpose. From
three to four thousand people attended. General John Wilson
was appointed president. After some introductory discussion,
several resolutions were adopted by acclamation, the essence of
which was this, — that we " instruct our mayor and common
council to abandon the scheme of high salaries, and to remodel
the schedule of oppressive taxation, as shadowed forth by their
recent action ; and unless they are willing to do so, to resign and
give place to more patriotic and efficient men." A committee
of twenty-five were then appointed to wait on the council and
present a copy of the resolutions, and to request an answer to
the same. The gentlemen composing the committee were Messrs.
Wilson, Folsom, Crane, Post, Stoutenburg, Howard, Cooke,
Kelly, Yale, Syme, Ketan, Robinson, Courson, Robertson, Dunbar,
Leonard, Minor, Parcells, Osborne, Wells, Duff, Parlon, Wake-
man and Meacham,

The committee named, accordingly, through their chairman,
Captain J. L. Folsom, presented the resolutions to the council.
These the aldermen, who appeared determined to carry matters
through with a high hand, received very coldly, and ordered them
to lie indefinitely on the table. This not being deemed a suffi-
cient answer by the committee, another "mass" and "indignation
meeting" was called by them for the evening of 12th June ;
which was held on the plaza and was very numerously attended.
Again General Wilson filled the chair. The report of the com-
mittee having been read, and the supposed " insolence of office "
duly animadverted upon, the meeting, considering the " disrespect
and insult " which their former representatives had met with,
unanimously reappointed them as a committee, with power to
increase their number to Jive hundred, and instructed them again to
present the old resolutions to the council in such form as they

280 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

should think fit. The committee thus fortified, afterwards chose
the additional members, and fixed the evening of the 14th, when
they should all march in procession to the place of meeting of
the common council, and there again submit the " sovereign will "
of the people to the aldermen, and require their prompt obedience
to the same. On that day the great conflagration just noticed
took place ; and farther action on the subject of the high salaries
and obnoxious taxation ordinances was indefinitely postponed.
Popular excitement took a new direction in consequence of the
fire ; and, excepting in the columns of the Herald newspaper,
and among a few testy individuals, little more was said on the
matter till some months afterwards, when the question was revived.
The previous meetings, however, had the efiect of causing the
obnoxious license ordinance to be withdrawn for a time. In the
end, the salaries of both the municipal officers and the common
council were reduced, the latter being ultimately fixed at four
thousand dollars.

It is due to Col. Geary, mayor of the city, to observe, that
from the beginning he opposed the payment of salaries to the
members of the Boards of Aldermen, and at last vetoed the bill
allowing them four thousand dollars each. His message, on
returning the ordinance, unapproved, was a highly creditable
document. After declaring that the ordinance in question was
in direct opposition to the wishes of the people, whose will had
been made known to the aldermen in the most emphatic mianner,
which he averred it was the duty of the latter to obey, he uses
the following language : —

" Another view which presents itself with great force to my mind, in in-
terpreting the executive right to arrest the ordinance in question, is that of
expediency. With great unanimity a financial measure has been adopted to
provide for the immediate payment of the city's indebtedness, by means of
a loan of half a million of dollars. It is of the greatest importance to the
interests of the city, that that measure should be made to succeed at the
earliest possible moment. In my deliberate judgment its success would be
injuriously impeded, if not entirely defeated, by associating with the propo-
sition for a loan, an ordinance to appropriate so large a proportion of the
amount demanded as sixty-four thousand dollars, to the paj-ment of a class
of officers whose services are usually rendered without any other remunera-
tion than the honor conferred by their fellow-citizens, and their participation
in the general good which it is their province and duty to promote. It could

THE OEEGON LIBERTY-POLE. 281

not fail to weaken our public credit to show a purpose to use it for the pay-
ment of salaries never contemplated by the people, especially in view of the
admitted necessity for the practice of the most rigid economy, in order to
complete by means of all the resources and credit we possess the public
works in progress or in contemplation. With scarcely a dollar in the pub-
lic treasury — without the means of discharging even the interest falling due
for the scrip already issued — the city credit impaired, and general bankruptcy
staring us in the face, retrenchment should be the order of the day, rather
than the opening up of new modes of making enormous and heretofore un-
known expenditures."

Tliis act of the mayor was universally and heartily applauded
by the people, and received the highest commendation of the en-
tire press ; while, on the other hand, it received the severest cen-
sures of the aldermen themselves, who not only passed the ordi-
nance by a legal number of votes despite the mayor's veto, but
for a long time refused to grant a salary to his honor. The
sudden and angry burst of popular feeling on this subject led,
the following year, to a provision in the new charter, then granted
by the Legislature to the city, which declared that henceforward
the members of the Common Council should not be entitled to
any compensation for their services.

July 1st. — From the shipping lists published in the daily
newspapers, it appears that about this time there were five hun-
dred and twenty-six vessels lying in the port, the greater number
of which were ships and barques, the remainder being brigs and
schooners. Besides these, there were at least one hundred large
square-rigged vessels lying at Benicia, Sacramento, and Stockton.
Long before this time many of the old seamen who had deserted
their ships had returned from the mines, and there was no diffi-
culty in procuring crews for departing vessels, upon paying them
the ordinary high wages of the time.

July 4th. — Another grand celebration of independence-day.
This was particularly distinguished by the erection on the plaza
of a magnificent flagstafi', or liberty-pole, which Messrs. S. Coffin
and W. W. Chapman, on behalf of the citizens of Portland,
Oregon, had presented to the citizens of San Francisco, and
which was received by the mayor. Col. J. W. Geary. The
length of this pole is one hundred and eleven feet. It is one
foot in diameter at the bottom, tapering regularly to about

282

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

three inches at the other end, and is as straight as an arrow.
This is perhaps the longest and most faultlessly straight pole
that is known, although the presenters apologized that no longer
one had been sent, on account of the inconvenience of shipping
a stick of larger dimensions. The old pole which used to stand
on the plaza from Mexican days, and upon which the first Amer-
ican flag was hoisted, had been removed on the 7th of June pre-
ceding, and was erected in front of the custom-house, at the
corner of Montgomery and California streets.

Cus om-bouse, at the corner of Montgomery and California streeta

The custom-house, occupied by Col. James Collier, then col-
lector of the port, was a new four-story brick building, and the
most imposing edifice in the city. It was destroyed by fire on
the 4th of May, 1851, as was also the old liberty-pole,

July 15th. — General Bennet Riley, late military governor
of the territory, left San Francisco for the Eastern States. Prior
to his departure a letter was addressed him, signed by the mayor
and numerous influential citizens, tendering him a public dinner,
and complimenting him for the satisfactory manner in which he
had performed his duties as governor of the country. Previous
arrangements, however, prevented the general from accepting

SOCIETY OF CALIFORNIA PIONEERS. 283

this invitation, in declining which he uses the following lan-
guage : — " Both in my official and social relations with the people
of California, I have ever been treated with the utmost indi-
gence and kindness. I can never cease to feel a lively interest
in their happiness and prosperity, and I now leave them with
feelings of deep regret. If California, by her mineral wealth,
and the unexampled increase of her population and commerce,
has attracted the attention of the world, her dignified course in
the peculiar and trying position in which she has been placed,
equally challenge universal admiration."

August. — Organization of the " Society of California Pio-
neers." The objects of this society were declared, in the words
of the constitution, to be " to cultivate the social virtues of its
members, to collect and preserve information connected with the
early settlement and conquest of the country, and to perpetuate
the memory of those whose sagacity, enterprise, and love of inde-
pendence, induced them to settle in the wilderness, and become
the germ of a new State," The society " shall be composed of
native Californians ; foreigners residing in California previous to
the conquest ; and natives of other States and other countries, if
citizens of the United States, resident here prior to January 1st,
1 849, and their male descendants, who shall constitute the first
class ; and citizens of the old States of the Federal Government
who shall have resided in California prior to January 1st, 1850,
and their male descendants, who shall constitute the second
class ; and honorary members, who may be admitted in accord-
ance with what may be prescribed in the by-laws," The admis-
sion fees, which are now (1854) ten dollars, and a monthly sub-
scription of a dollar, payable half-yearly in advance, " and all
funds arising therefrom or by donation, shall be safely invested,
and the income arising therefrom shall be appropriated to chari-
table purposes, exclusively for the use and benefit of the widows
and orphans of pioneer immigrants, members of this society." A
list of the members in April, 1854, with the dates of their respec-
tive arrivals in California, their present residences, and the office-
bearers of that year, appear in the Appendix, Here we may
only name the first office-bearers of the society. They were as
follows : —

284 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

President : — William D. M. Howard.

Vice- Preside n ts.
Jacob K. Snyder, Samuel Brannan, G. Frank Lemon.

Recording Secretary. Assistant Recording Secretary.

Joseph L. Folsom. J. C. L. Wadsworth.

Corresponding Secretary. Treasurer.

Edwin Bryant. Talbot H. Green.

Assista7it CoJTesponding Secretaries.
W. C. Parker and A. J. Grayson.

Board of Directors.

James 0. VV ard,

H. W. Halleck,

J. Mead Huxley,

James C. Low,

J. D. Stevenson,

R. M. Sherman,

Samuel Kyburn,

James Hall,

Henry Gerke,

G. K. Winner,

Robert Wells,

G. W. Vincent,

H. A. Schoolcraft,

J. B. Frisbie,

R. A. Parker,

William Blackburn,

John Wilson,

W. H. Davis.

August 15th. — The city was thrown into a state of excite-
ment by news of serious riots having occurred at Sacramento
City on the preceding day. It seems that a great portion of the
land covering that city and vicinity is held by grants from Capt.
John A. Sutter, who claimed under an old Spanish title. Much
of this land had been squatted upon by parties who denied the
legality of Sutter's grants, and who claimed a right to the property
as pre-emptionists or settlers. The holders of titles from Sutter
appealed to the courts, and decisions were given in their favor ;
but upon attempting to possess themselves of their appropriated
property they were forcibly resisted by the squatters. On the
13th instant, several of these latter were arrested for resisting
the officers of the law and the process of the court, and in default
of bail, two of them were held in custody on board the prison
brig. On the day following an armed body of squatters repaired
to the brig to release their companions, where they were met by
the mayor, sheriff, and a posse, who drove them back a consider-
able distance into the city, when they turned and fired upon the
le^al authorities, who immediately returned the fire with guns
and pistols. Of the latter, Mr. Woodland, city assessor, was

SQUATTER RIOTS AT SACRAMENTO CITY.

285

killed, and Mayor Bigelow, Mr. Harper, assistant postmaster,
and several others were wounded. Mahloney, the leader of the
squatters, was shot dead from his horse. Several others of the
same party were killed, and a number severely wounded. On
the same dav, other disturbances occurred at Brisjhton, six miles
south of the city, when Sheriff Joseph McKinney was killed, and

Sacramento City

several of his posse were wounded ; three of the squatters were
also killed, and a number taken j^risoners. Immediately upon
receiving intelligence of these lamentable occurrences Mayor
Geary issued a proclamation, calHng upon " the citizens of San
Francisco to meet at the earliest possible period, form companies,
and hold themselves in readiness to answer such calls as may
necessarily be made upon them." Soon the " California Guard,"
Captain Howard, numbering eighty men, and " Protection Fire
Company, No. 2," Captain McCormick, between forty and fifty
men, properly equipped and armed with muskets, reported them-
selves ready for service. This force, under the command of Col.
Geary, departed at 12 o'clock for the scene of the riots in the

286 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

steamboat Senator, which, with characteristic decision, prompt-
ness, and public spirit, had been placed at their disposal by Mr.
Charles Minturn. Their departure was witnessed and loudly
cheered by a great multitude of citizens, who had hastily gathered
upon the wharves. They arrived at Sacramento about 11 o'clock
in the evening. In the mean time order was partially restored,
and happily their actual services were not required. They were
kindly received by the authorities and citizens, and hospitably
entertained until the 17th instant, when they returned to their
homes. Before leaving Sacramento they were presented with
highly complimentary and laudatory resolutions and votes of
thanks from the Boards of Aldermen and Military Department
of the State for the tender of their ready and efficient aid. This
prompt action on the part of the mayor and citizens of San
Francisco, doubtless, had a tendency not only to assist in pre-
serving the restored peace of their sister city, but to prevent the
occurrence of similar disturbances in other portions of the State.
Be this as it may, it was deserving of the praise it received, and
was an example worthy of being followed.

August 21st. — Mayor Geary published a brief address to
the citizens in all the morning jjapers, informing them that news
had been received of the " destitution, distress, and extreme
suffering of the immigrants to California by the overland route ; "
and that a committee had been selected for the purpose of call-
ing upon them during the day for means of relief for the suffer-
ers. The committee consisted of John W. Geary, E. E. Dun-
bar, E. C. Kemble, Talbot H. Green, Henry M. Naglee, W. H.
Parker, Wm. Sharron, and David C. Broderick. It was also
stated by J. Neely Johnson, Esq., Agent for the Sacramento
Belief Association, who had recently returned from an expedi-
dition of relief to the immigrants, that " it was supposed that
60,000 emigrants started across the plains by the Northern, or
' Southern Pass ' route. On the 18th June, 39,000 had been
registered at Fort Laramie. Of this entire number probably
20,000 had arrived. Of the remaining number, 10,000 would
piobably arrive this side of the Desert, without teams, money,
or provisions ; 10,000 more with their teams so much worn down
as to require additional assistance to enable them to cross the

PRESENTATION OF BOOKS TO THE CHINESE.

287

mountains." Mr. Johnson described the condition of some
whom he had met on his expedition as destitute, sick, and
wretched in the extreme, and showed the necessity of speedy
means being taken to save the immigrants from starving, or
otherwise fearfully perishing before they could terminate their
journey. These appeals were promptly responded to by the

Emigrant Train.

citizens. Before night the committee had collected an immense
quantity of provisions, and about $6000 in cash, which was for-
warded without delay to meet the wants of the sufferers.

August 28th. — A novel and interesting ceremony took place
this afternoon in Portsmouth Square. Mayor Greary, Vice-Con-
sul Frederick A. Woodworth, Rev. Albert Williams, and other
members of a committee appointed for the purpose, assembled
on the platform, to present the Chinese residents with certain
religious tracts, papers, and books, printed in Chinese characters.
Tlie " China boys," as they are pleased to be called, having

288 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

formed themselves in procession, marched to the square, and ar-
ranged themselves in a circle upon the platform. They were
clothed richly in their native costume, and made a fine and pleas-
ino- appearance. Here the presentation took place, and addresses
were made by each of the gentlemen above named, which were
interpreted by As-sing, one of the Chinese. The mayor, on this
occasion, extended to them an invitation to take part in the
funeral ceremonies that were to occur on the following day.

August 29th. — The death of President Taylor was com-
memorated by a funeral procession. The military and fire com-
panies. Masonic and Odd-Fellows' Lodges, a variety of benevo-
lent and other associations, the clergy, ofiicers of thfe army and
navy, consuls and representatives of foreign governments, the
councils and various municipal and State officers, a great number
of private citizens, and a large company of Chinese residents,
took part in the imposing ceremonies. Hon. John B. Weller
acted as Grand Marshal. The procession moved through the
streets to Portsmouth Square, where an appropriate prayer was
made by Rev. Augustus Fitch, and an eloquent eulogy pro-
nounced by Hon. Elcan Heydenfeldt. On the following day the
Chinese, who henceforward took considerable interest in public
affairs, where any ceremony of a festival or imposing nature was
concerned, presented the mayor with the following document,
written in Chinese characters : —

" San Francisco. August SOth, 1850.
" To Hon. John W. Geary, Mayor of the City of San Francisco : —

'•Sir: — The "China Boys" wish to thank you for the kind mark of at-
tention you bestowed upon them in extending to them an invitation to join
with the citizens of San Francisco in doing honor to the memory of the late
President of the United States, General Zachary Taylor. The China Boys
feel proud of the distinction you have shown them, and will always endeavor
to merit your good opinion and the good opinion of the citizens of their adopted
country. The China Boys are fully sensible of the great loss this country has
sustained in the death of its chieftain and ruler, and mourn with you in sor-
row. Strangers as they are among you, they kindly appreciate the many kind-
nesses received at your hands, and again beg leave, with grateful hearts, to
thank you.

" As-SING,
" A-HE,

" /n behalf of t/ie China Boys."

CHAPTER XII.
1850.

The first City Directory published. — Monetary crisis. — Fourth great fire. — Death of Captain Bezer
Simmons. — The wharves. — Celebration on occasion of the admission of California into the Union
of American States. — Explosion of the steamer Sagamore. — City Hospital burned. — Improvements
in the city. — Plank road to the Mission Dolores. — Death of the mayor of Sacramento. — Thanks-
giving Day. — Fire in Sacramento street

September. — The first " Directory " of the city was published
this month by Charles P. Kimball. It was a duodecimo pam-
phlet of one hundred and thirty-six pages, and contained about
twentv-five hundred names.

September 7th. — There have been during the last fcAv days
a monetary crisis and great run upon the banks ; when one of
them, Mr. Henry M. Naglee's, suspended payment to-day. Dur-
ing the troublous and exciting winter of 1849-50, speculation
had gone beyond all bounds both in every kind of merchandise
and in real estate. When the reaction came, prices fell nearly as
much below the prime cost of goods as previously they had been
above it, and in many cases great quantities of valuable merchan-
dise could be had at nominal rates. Eeal estate, when forced on
the market, often did not fetch a tenth of its recent value. Add-
ed to this sudden collapse of prices, three great fires had helped
to ruin many, and had affected indeed every inhabitant of the
city in some measure prejudicially. Thus a general financial
embarrassment ensued, and numerous bankruptcies of people pre-
viously reputed wealthy followed. Some of the most extensive
firms of the city were compelled to assign their property for the
benefit of their creditors. On a sudden a panic seized those who
held deposits in the different banks, and an immediate "run"
was made on these estabHshments. Messrs. Burgoyne & Co.,
19

290 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

James King of William, and Wells & Co., nobly met tlie unex-
pected demand, and kept their doors open during unusual and
extra hours to accommodate the half frantic depositors.

September 17th. — About four o'clock in the morning of this
day, fire broke out in the " Philadelphia House," on the north
side of Jackson street, near to the Washington market. It was
the fourth great conflagration in the city. The principal portions
of the different building squares lying between Dupont, Mont-
o-omery, Washington and Pacific streets were overrun by the
flames. The buildings erected on these quarters were chiefly of
wood, and generally one story only in height ; so that, although
the space over which the fire extended was very great, much less
proportionate damage was sustained than on the occasions of the
preceding great fires. The loss was estimated to be from a quar-
ter to half a million of dollars. The newly organized fire compa-
nies were of much service in staying the progress of the confla-
gration, and would have been of still more had there not been a
short supply of water. It was evident, however, that the want
of a proper head or engineering chief sadly hindered the harmo-
nious action not only of these and the hook and ladder compa-
nies, but of every person who volunteered help in extinguishing
the flames. As usual, the burned space was so soon afterwards
covered with buildings that in a few weeks all external traces of
the disaster disappeared. It was remarked at this time that
there were certain unlucky individuals whose projjerties had
been consumed on each occasion of the four great fires — all with-
in nine months ! Many had sufiered twice and thrice by these
successive calamities. This surely was enough to try the pa-
tience of a modern Job, and drive the bravest to despair. But
in a common calamity, however great, there is such sympathy
and consolation, that the mind readily recovers its equanimity.
People were almost beginning to consider that such conflagra-
tions could not be avoided, but were surely sent either as a pun-
ishment for their wickedness or as a necessary drawback upon the
otherwise great profits of general business. So those burned out
just set themselves doggedly to work again, and soon reared up
new and grander habitations for themselves. Happily indeed
does the Phcenix appear on the corporation seal, since, like it.

CONSTRUCTION OF WHARVES. 291

the city was continually reviving and springing from its own
asbes a fairer and more substantial thing than before.

September 26th. — Captain Bezer Simmons, the senior part-
ner of the well-known house of Simmons, Hutchinson & Co., died
this day. He was among the most respected citizens of San
Francisco, and the earliest business men of the place. His name
appears on several occasions in these " Annals," in connection
with subjects of public interest. Captain Simmons was a native
of Woodstock, Vt. Some years previous to the cession of Cali-
fornia to the American Government he was encased in tradino;
along the coast of Lower California, and in 1848, purchased pro-
perty in San Francisco, where he settled, and soon afterwards en-
gaged in extensive and successful business operations. In April,
1849, he was sorely afficted by the death of his wife, (who was
the sister of Frederick Billings, of the law firm of Halleck, Peachy
& Billings,) and before the close of the year, he received intelligence
of the death of his mother and a brother to whom he was strono--
ly attached. In January, 1851, he repaired to Woodstock, with
the remains of his wife, to bury them in her native town. On
his return he learned that his business was in an alarming; con-
dition, and soon after the firm was declared insolvent. Beinir
exceedingly sensitive, this rapid succession of misfortunes and
afiiictions were thought to aggravate an indisposition under which
he had been for some time suffering, and which consequently ter-
minated his life. His death was considered almost a j)ublic
calamity, and his body was attended to the grave by an immense
concourse of the best portion of the inhabitants of the city.

October 22d. — To show the rapid progress of the city in
one direction, we shall give a short notice of the state of the
wharves in the bay about this time.

Central Wharf, — So early as the autumn of 1848 the
want of a good ship wharf was seriously felt, and different
schemes were, in the following winter and spring months, pro-
jected to supply the deficiency. It was not, however, till May
of 1849, that any active steps were taken in the matter. At
that time a proper wharf association was formed, which raised
considerable capital, and began operations. By December of
the same year, eight hundred feet of the wharf was finished.

292 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

In the fire of June, 1850, a considerable portion was consumed,
but the part destroyed was promptly repaired — even while the
smoke of the ruins around continued to ascend. In August fol-
lowing-, measures were taken to continue the work ; and at the
date of this notice, it extended so much as two thousand feet
into the bay. This wharf had already cost $180,000 ; and was
of the greatest service to the shipping of the port. Large vessels
could lay alongside and discharge at any state of the tide.

Market Street Wharf commenced at the foot of Market
street, and had already run out six hundred feet into the bay.

California Street Wharf was four hundred feet long and
thirty-two feet wide.

Howison's Pier was eleven hundred feet in length, by forty
feet in width — the depth of water, at fuU tide, being fourteen
feet at the extremity.

Sacramento Street Wharf was eight hundred feet in
length.

Clay Street Wharf was nine hundred feet in length, by
forty feet in width ; and in another month was extended to eigh-
teen hundred feet.

Washington Street Wharf was two hundred and seventy-
five feet long.

Jackson Street Wharf was five hundred and fifty-two
feet in length, with thirteen feet depth of water.

Pacific Street Wharf was already five hundred and twen-
ty-five feet long, and sixty feet wide.

Broadway Wharf was two hundred and fifty feet long, and
forty feet wide.

Cunningham's Wharf was three hundred and seventy-five
feet long, and thirty-three feet wide, having a T at its end three
hundred and thirty feet long, by thirty feet wide. It had twen-
ty-five feet depth of water at the cross line.

Law's Wharf, at the foot of Green street, was likewise in
the course of formation ; and a wharf, to be seventeen hundred
feet in length, was immediately about to be undertaken by the
city, on the north beach.

The cost of these various wharves already amounted to nearly
a million and a half of dollars ; and they provided artificial

ADMISSION OF CALIFORNIA INTO THE UNION. 293

'^orotighferes to the extent of almost two miles, A few of them
were the property of the corporation ; but the greater number
were owned by private companies or by individuals, who drew
large returns from them. There is little trace left of these
works, for the water space along their sides is now covered with
houses, while the wharves themselves have become public streets,
their future extensions forming the existing wharves and piers of
the city. This gradual march across the deep waters of the bay is
a peculiar feature in the progress of the city, and serves to liken it
to those other queens of the sea, Venice and Amsterdam, and per-
haps also to St. Petersburgh. But where the latter have canals
for streets, and solid earth now beneath their first pile-founded
buildings, San Francisco, over a great portion of its business and
most valuable districts, has still only a vast body of tidal water,
beneath both the plank-covered streets and the pile-founded
houses themselves. Year by year, however, this strange watery
abyss is being filled up by the removal of the sand hills behind,
which may be said to be taken up and cast bodily into the deep.
When the original wharves were erected they proved of the ut-
most benefit to the commerce and prosperity of the city ; and
their extent, as detailed above, shows in a striking manner the
energy and enterprise of the people who had constructed them in
so short a space of time.

October 29th. — This day was set apart to celebrate the ad-
mission of California into the Union. When, on the 18th in-
stant, the mail steamer " Oregon " was entering the bay, she fired
repeated preconcerted signal guns which warned the citizens of
the glorious news. Immediately the whole of the inhabitants
were afoot, and grew half wild with excitement until they heard
definitely that the tidings were as they had expected. Business
of almost every description was instantly suspended, the courts
adjourned in the midst of their work, and men rushed from every
house into the streets and towards the wharves, to hail the har-
binger of the welcome news. When the steamer rounded
Clark's Point and came in front of the city, her masts Kterally
covered with flags and signals, a universal shout arose from ten
thousand voices on the wharves, in the streets, upon the hills,
house-tops, and the world of shipping in the bay. Again and

294 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

again were huzzas repeated, adding more and more every moment
to the intense excitement and unprecedented enthusiasm. Every
public place was soon crowded with eager seekers after the par-
ticulars of the news, and the first papers issued an hour after the
appearance • of the Oregon were sold by the newsboys at from
one to five dollars each. The enthusiasm increased as the day
advanced. Flags of every nation were run up on a thousand
masts and peaks and stafis, and a couple of large guns placed
upon the plaza were constantly discharged. At night every pub-
lic thoroughfare was crowded with the rejoicing populace. Al-
most every large building, all the pubhc saloons and places of
amusement were brilHantly illuminated — music from a hundred
bands assisted the excitement — numerous balls and parties were
hastily got up — bonfires blazed upon the hills, and rockets were
incessantly thrown into the air, until the dawn of the following
day. Many difficulties had occurred to delay this happy event,
and the people had become sick at heart with the "hope de-
ferred " of calling themselves, and of being in reality citizens of
the great American Union. It is only necessary to state here,
without going into particulars, that the delay had arisen from the
jealousy of the proslavery party in Congress, at a time when
they and the abolitionists were nicely balanced in number, to ad-
mit an additional free State into the Union, whereby so many
more votes would be given against the peculiar and obnoxious
*' domestic institution " of the South. Several compromises had
been occasionally attempted to be effected by statesmen of each
great party, but without success. In the end, however, the bill
for the admission of California passed through Congress by large
majorities.

Such an occasion beyond all others demanded a proper celebra-
tion at San Francisco ; and the citizens, accordingly, one and all,
united to make the day memorable. On the 29th instant, a pro-
cession of the various pubUc bodies and inhabitants of the city,
with appropriate banners, devices, music and the like, marched
through the principal streets to the plaza. The Chinese turned
out in large numbers on tliis occasion, and formed a striking fea-
ture in the ceremonies of the day. The Honorable Nathaniel
Bennett, of the Supreme Court, delivered a suitable oration to the

CITY IMPKOVEMENTS. 295

people on the plaza, and an ode, composed for the occasion by Mrs.
Wills, was sung by a Ml choir. During the day repeated dis-
charges of fire-arms and a proper salute from great guns carried
off some of the popular excitement, while the shipping displayed
innumerable flags. In the evening, public bonfires and fireworks
were exliibited from Telegraph Hill, Rincon Point, and the islands
in the bay. The houses were likewise brilliantly illuminated, and
the rejoicings were every where loudly continued during the night.
Some five hundred gentlemen and three hundred ladies met at
the grandest public ball that had yet been witnessed in the city,
and danced and made merry, till daylight, in the pride and joy
of their hearts that California was truly now the tliirty-Jii'st State
of the Union.

On this day (October 29th), the steamer "Sagamore" explo-
ded, when about to leave the wharf for Stockton. Thirty or forty
persons were killed.

October 31st. — Destruction by fire of the City Hospital, which
was situated at the head of Clay street, and owned by Dr. Peter
Smith. This was supposed to have been the work of an incen-
diary. The fire broke out in an adjoining house, which was also
consumed. Several of the patients were severely burned, and it
was only by the most strenuous exertions of the firemen and citi-
zens that they were saved at all.

November, — We have already noticed the progress that had
been made in the erection of wharves, and we may now direct at-
tention to the important steps that had been taken in grading,
planking and otherwise improving the streets of the city. During
the summer of this year, the care of the mayor and common coun-
cil had been particularly turned towards the improvements of the
communications through the town, and many ordinances had been
passed with that view. Considerable hills had consequently been
cut down and immense hollows filled up. Great quantities of
rock and sand were removed, from places where they were only
nuisances, to other quarters where they became of use in remov-
ing the natural irregularities of the ground, and making all smooth
and level. Piles were driven deep in the earth where needed, the
principal streets were substantially planked, and commodious sew-
ers formed. The cost of these improvements was very great, it

296 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

being estimated that nearly half a million of dollars would be re-
quired this year to complete those now in operation. The city
paid about one-third of that amount, and raised the remainder by
assessment upon the parties whose properties faced the streets
which were altered. To show the extent of these improvements,
we give the following lists of the streets in which they were now
beino- executed. Those running north and south were as fol-
lows : —

Battery street between Market and California — graded and planked.

Sansome " " Bush and Broadway, "

Montgomery " California " " and sewer.

Kearny

Dupont " Sacramento " " "

Stockton " Clay and Water, "

Ohio " Broadway and Pacific,

Taylor " Lombard and Water,

Those running east and west were as follows :

Bush street, between Battery and Montgomery — graded and planked.

California " bulkhead " " and sewer.

Sacramento " Sansome and Dupont, " "

Clay " bulkhead and Stockton, " "

Washington " " Dupont, " "

Jackson « " " " «

Pacific " Kearny « « "

Broadway " Water and Ohio, "

Francisco " " Stockton, "

Thus the municipal authorities were taking precautions to re-
move, before the rainy season commenced, as many as possible of
the obstacles, which, during the preceding winter, had rendered
the streets nearly impassable.

November 18th. — This day an ordinance regarding the plank-
road to the Mission Dolores, and which had previously been car-
ried in the Board of Assistant Aldermen by a two-third vote,
passed the Board of Aldermen by a constitutional majority, not-
withstanding certain objections of the mayor and his consequent
veto. The mission, which is situated two and a quarter miles
from the plaza, was a place of common resort for the citizens, but
the road to it being sandy, was difficult of travel, especially for
vehicles. Owing to this cause, the cost of carriage was very great.

MISSION PLANK-ROAD. 297

A load of hay, for instance, moved from the mission to the city,
cost as much as fifteen or twenty dollars. The same way likewise
led to San Jose, the capital of the State. It was therefore of con-
siderable public importance that this road should be speedily im-
proved. In the summer of this year. Colonel Charles L. Wilson
conceived the plan of laying a plank-road from Kearny street to
the mission, and presented a proposition to that effect to the Com-
mon Council. He offered to build the road, which, at that time,
was considered a tremendous enterprise, in consequence of the
high price of lumber and labor, on condition that he was allowed
to collect certain rates of toll fro\Q those using it, and that he
should have the exclusive right of the way for the term of ten
years, at the expiring of which time the entire improvements were
to revert to the city. An ordinance to grant Col. Wilson the pri-
vileges he asked, readily passed one of the boards of aldermen,
but it was a long while before it obtained the concurrence of the
other ; and not even then until it was so modified that seven years
only were allowed the j^rojector for the use of the road, and but
five months granted him for completion of the work. The im-
portance of the undertaking was admitted on all sides ; and the
chief opposition to it was based upon the assumption that the city
should rather make it at its own expense and reap the large pro-
fits which it was supposed would be the result. This, however,
at that period, was impossible, the city being upwards of a million
and a half of dollars in debt, and without the slightest prospect
of being able for years to defray its unavoidable current ex-
penses.

Having obtained the consent of the council. Col. Wilson next
met with a formidable obstacle in rather an unexpected quarter.
The mayor, after retaining the ordinance the full length of time
allowed him, returned it unapproved. Notwithstanding, the coun-
cil again adopted it with almost a unanimous vote. Still, the
veto of the mayor affected the enterprise unfavorably to a consid-
erable extent. Several parties, who had previously engaged to
furnish funds for the work, now became alarmed as to the legality
of the council's procedure, and withheld their promised aid. Col.
Wilson was therefore left alone, to abandon altogether his weighty
project, or to carry it on unassisted. He determined upon the lat-

298

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

ter course, and although without any definite idea of the source
from whence the means were to be obtained, commenced the work.
Having proceeded far enough to give a guarantee for the comple-
tion of the project, he visited the capital, and obtained from the

Beach of Yerba Bucna Cove, Winter of 1849-50, from Central Wharl to Happy Valley.

legislature an act confirming the ordinance of the city council.
This renewed confidence in the measure. A half interest in the
undertaking was immediately sold, and funds were thus obtained
for carrying it on. Upon the very last day allowed under the or-
dinance for completion of the work, loaded wagons passed on the
road from the mission to the town.

This plank-road has proved of the greatest service to San Fran-
cisco, and the property through which it passes has increased im-
mensely in value for building purposes. Formerly that property
was at times nearly inaccessible, and on all occasions was verv^
difficult and troublesome to reach ; while it is now of compara-
tively easy access. Since the formation of this plank-way, another
road of the same kind has likewise been formed to the mission,
upon similar terms granted by the council to the projectors ; and
both are believed to have proved highly lucrative schemes to their
spirited proprietors.

ANOTHER FIRE. 299

November 27th. — Hon. Harden Bigelow, Mayor of Sacramen-
to City, died this morning at the Union Hotel. He had taken
an active part in suppressing the squatter riots at Sacramento,
when he received a gun-shot wound which required the amputa-
tion of an arm. The operation was performed by Dr. John Hast-
ings, by whose advice Mr. Bigelow was removed to San Francisco,
believing the climate of that city would conduce toward effecting
a more rapid recovery from the effects of the injury. While here
he was attacked with cholera, which caused his death. His
body was conveyed to the steamboat New World j to be taken to
Sacramento for burial, by an escort composed of the California
Guard, the mayor, members of the Common Council, heads of
departments of the city, and the Society of California Pioneers.
Mayor Geary delivered a very appropriate address on the occasion,
in which the many excellent traits in the character of the deceas-
ed were depicted in a most affecting manner.

November 30th. — A thanksgiving-day for the admission of
California into the Union.

December 14th. — On the evening of this day a fire broke out
in an iron building on Sacramento street, below Montgomery street.
Several large stores and much valuable goods were destroyed.
The total damage was estimated at about a million of dollars.
Elsewhere such a fire might well be called a great one ; but it was
not so reckoned in the " Annals of San Francisco."

CHAPTER XIII.

1850.

Populalion In 1350.— City improvements.— Grading and planking streets.— Wliarves, steamers, man-
ufacturos.- Supply and demand for goods.— Mines yielding abundantly. — Expresses established.-
Moral progress.- Better state of things.— Cbolcra.—California admitted to the Union. — City Char-
ter granted. — First Common Council — The gold medals for Aldermen. — Corruption of officials. —
Colton Grants.— Leidesdorff Estate. — City finances. — Outrages and fires.- The prisons and police.
— Lynch Law agitated.

In the course of the year 1850, upwards of thirty-six thousand
persons arrived by sea in San Francisco. Of these fully one-half
came direct from foreign ports, while many of those that crossed the
Isthmus of Panama were likewise from foreign countries. By far
the greater number of immigrants were adult males, as might
have been anticipated. The most of these persons hastened at
once to the mines, only staying a few days, or at most a week or
two, in town, to recruit their strength and make preparation for the
digger's toil. Perhaps two thousand females, many of whom were
of base character and loose practices, were also added this year to
the permanent population, if that can be called j^ermanent which
dwelt at least a twelvemonth in the city. The immigration across
the plains and by land generally into the State was also, as in the
preceding year, very large. Great numbers of all these sea and
land immigrants, after they had been some months at the mines,
and made perhaps a few thousand dollars, returned by way of San
Francisco, to their former homes. Many others, altogether disap-
pointed with or unfit for the country, went hastily back to the
places from whence they had come. Thus vessels leaving the bay,
and especially the steamers, were nearly as well filled with passen-
gers as when they had first arrived. This constant migration to
and from the State gave a wonderful animation to the streets

IMPROVEMENTS OF THE CITY. 301

of the town. Many of the incomers remained in the place, and
the regular population continued to increase. At the close of this
year, the inhabitants probably numbered between twenty-five and
thirty thousand. The Chinese had not yet arrived in any great
numbers, but the Chilenos and other people of Spanish-American
extraction continued very numerous.

The year 1850 saw a wonderful improvement in the aspect of
San Francisco. Notwithstanding the conflagrations which had
so often laid in ruins large portions of the city, or perhaps rather
to some extent in consequence of them, the buildings in the busi-
ness quarters were now remarkable for their size, beauty and soH-
dity. The tents and shanties of last year had totally disappeared
from the centre of the town, while many of the old frame build-
ings that had not been destroyed by fire were replaced by others
of a larger and stronger kind, if not by extensive fire-proof brick
structures. It is true that in the outskirts there were still numer-
ous frail and unsubstantial habitations left, while, farther away
many more of the same kind were being weekly and daily added ;
but as population and the value of real estate and household pro-
perty gradually increased, these temporary erections began to give
place to more solid and comfortable buildings. Though labor still
commanded high prices, during a great part of the year, most
kinds of building materials could be obtained at comparatively low
rates, probably at an average of one-fourth or one-sixth of the
prices of the preceding season.

While houses were thus changing for the better, an equal
improvement was taking place in the character of the streets. If
nature had given to San Francisco magnificent water privileges,
she had certainly been ver}'^ chary in bestowing upon it land ones.
The site, immediately available for building operations, was ex-
ceedingly small, and it was only by the expenditure of a vast
amount of labor that additional space could be obtained for the
necessary extension of the town. The land around was very
hilly and irregular, which had all to be made smooth and plain
before proper streets could be designed and convenient houses
built. Fortunately the obstructing hills were composed chiefly
of sand and easily removed. The original tents, shanties and
houses had just been placed upon the old uneven surface, high up

302 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

or low down as it happened ; but it was soon found, that if the
city was ever intended by its inhabitants to grow to greatness,
some method must be observed in bringing them more upon a
straight line, with ready access between all parts of the place.
Very expensive works were therefore ordered by the town council,
to establish a regular and convenient grade to the streets, while
these were in many places substantially planked, and in some
instances had sewers constructed along them. During the sum-
mer of 1850, such alterations had been proceeded with to a con-
siderable extent, and now, when the winter and rainy season
approached, their utility was seen and appreciated by all.

Other material improvements were keeping pace with those
of the houses and streets. Numerous well appointed wharves
were run out into the deep waters of the bay, at which the largest
vessels could lay alongside and discharge. Better regulations
were continually being adopted by the harbor masters to facilitate
the shipping interests. In the year just passed six hundred and
fifty-six sea-going vessels had arrived and discharged at the port.
Of these five hundred and ninety-eight were American, and fifty-
eight of different foreign countries. The public ofiices of the
city and State were removed to more commodious and accessible
buildings. The towns around the shores of the bay and those
situated on the Sacramento and San Joaquin Kivers could now
be easily, rapidly and cheaply reached, by means of numerous
large, strong and beautiful steamboats. All along the outer
coasts, magnificent steamships regularly carried the mails and
passengers. In San Francisco itself, many workshops and man-
ufactories began to be established ; and, if few articles of trade
were manufactured from the beginning out of raw materials, at
least extensive repairs could always be now made upon them.
The important suburb of " Happy Valley," on the southern side
of the town, became quite a hive of manufacturing industry,
where there were many large works for the building and repairing
of steam and sailing vessels, foundries, lumber-yards, docks, flour-
mills and workshops of various kinds. Labor of every description
was highly paid, and generally all branches of the community had
reason to be satisfied with their profits.

The enormous gains of the preceding year had tempted those

GENERAL VIEW OF THE CITY. 303

who partook of them to largely increase their shipments for 1850,
while others, determined to share in the golden spoil, hastened to
send additional goods to what was a limited market at best. The in-
creased supply of merchandise soon affected the market, and prices
in the spring of 1850 fell very considerably. There was a slight
subsequent reaction in the course of the year, but towards the
close, markets became more depressed than ever, and much em-
barrassment ensued to the mercantile class. This fall in prices,
as well as the natural depreciation in the value of real estate
from the former excessive rates, and the losses sustained by the
many great fires, led to a monetary crisis, when a great number
of merchants, real estate jobbers and others became bankrupt.
One particular consequence of the excessive supply of goods was
the sudden extraordinary increase of auctioneering business.
When markets began to fall, and merchants found that their im-
portations could not afford to pay storage and other charges, and
still more, when commission agents desired to realize their ad-
vances, or were urged by foreign correspondents to sell at any
price, then whole shiploads of merchandise were rattled off with
a crack of the auctioneer's hammer. It seemed to be of little
moment at what rate so that somehow the matter was fixed, ac-
counts could be adjusted, and the distant sufferer made aware of
the net amount of his loss. This was still farther the case
during the succeeding year. The auction business was mean-
while becoming one of great importance, which it continued to
be, and is now, in San Francisco. That system of disposing of
goods possesses many advantages, among which are speedy returns,
and in the case of brisk demand, perhaps also better prices
than can be obtained otherwise, but, at a period of glut, it fearfully
sacrifices the interests of the luckless absent proprietor of unsaleable
merchandise. In 1850, and still more in 1851, these things could
not well be helped by any party. Still, however great individual
losses and sufferings might be, the general interests of the place
wer-3 all this while steadily advancing ; and this was only one of
the severe ordeals through which every great city in its unexpected
origin and speedy progress might be expected to pass.

The mines were yielding larger returns than ever, the country
was being rapidly peopled, agriculture was beginning to be followed

304 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

to a considerable extent, towns were in course of erection, and
magnificent structures built on all the land. San Francisco was
the o-reat centre from whence all these changes and improvements
originated, and naturally kept to itself a large proportion of them.
Steam and stage " expresses " — the invariable concomitants of
American progress — were established over the whole country and
to the Atlantic States, and letters, newspapers and packages were
conveyed with speed and safety at moderate rates. A powerful
press diffused general information, and from the pulpits of many
able churches flowed religious and moral consolation. These are
the marks of high civilization, and they were strikingly stamped
upon San Francisco. Some of the first immigrants had sent for
their wives and families, and a few of those who had come later
brought them in their train. The '' household gods " were set up
in many a dwelling, and the inmates could now worship and enjoy
their blessings together. Instead of the old scenes of terrible
confusion which we have described as existing at the close of 1849,
the city, only one twelvemonth later, presented an orderly, decent
and busy aspect, with moderately clean and regular streets, houses
of fair proportions, prices of provisions and goods reasonable,
markets supplied with every luxury for the table, convenient
wharves for shipping, " expresses " by sea and land, a dozen
churches, half-a-dozen banking establishments, several theatres,
well-filled book and music stores, six or seven daily newspapers,
magnificent hotels and restaurants, handsome public carriages for
the rich and ostentatious, and with almost every luxury, conve-
nience and necessary, mental and corporeal, that old cities in long
peopled and civilized countries could boast of. The earliest citi-
zens formed themselves into the " Society of California Pioneers,"
and numerous associations were organized for municipal and de-
fensive, literary, charitable, musical, social and similar purposes,
just as we find in the old established communities. Most of the
inhabitants certainly seemed to live purely to heap more dollars
to their existing store ; but it was not altogether so. Eays of
refinement were shooting through the sordid mass, and gradually
turning it towards a feeling that there was something higher,
happier and better than mere money gathering. But while this
ennobling leaven was silently and slowly at work among the busy

aldermen's medals. 305

multitudes, the great apparent characteristics of the place con-
tinued to be its material progress and the incessant stir and in-
dustry of the people. The town had been severely tried in the
conflagrations which so repeatedly destroyed large portions of the
uiost valuable districts ; but nothing could daunt the energy and
enterprise of the inhabitants. These losses and all the natural
obstacles of the site were successively overcome, and the city
grew daily more grand and rich.

Cholera visited San Francisco in the fall of this year ; but
its ravages were slight. The greatest number of deaths in any
one day did not exceed ten or twelve. The epidemic began in
October, was at its height in November, and disappeared by the
close of the year. Notwithstanding the filth and rubbish which
naturally collected around the scene of so many busy operations
by a vast population which had hitherto adopted no proper means
to preserve cleanliness and purity of atmosphere, the health of
the place was wonderfully preserved ; and neither by cholera,
which alights and is most deadly on the filthiest spots of a
country, nor by other diseases, did a disproportionate or unusual
number of deaths occur. This is high testimony to the extreme
salubrity of the climate. The winter of 1850-51 was a remark-
ably dry and pleasant one, a striking contrast to the dreary
winter of 1849-50.

In the course of 1850, two great poHtical changes had taken
place : Cahfornia had been admitted into the Union, and a city
charter, previously approved of by the inhabitants, had been
granted to San Francisco by the State Legislature. The latter
was much improved and re-granted in the following year. In
the Appendix we give copies of the State Constitution and of the
amended City Charter. By these events, the hands of both the
general and local authorities were greatly strengthened, and the
foundations of a firm government fairly laid.

The first common council of San Francisco, under the char-
ter, had certainly a considerable deal to do, and perhaps did it
well enough ; but their appropriation of a large portion of the
city funds to themselves, by the name of salaries, met with much
opposition from the citizens, which had at least the effect of re-
ducing the amount one-third. At a later date of the year, the
20

306

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

aldermen were said to have mysteriously voted to themselves a
gold medal, of the value of one hundretl and fifty dollars, sup-
posed to he for those public and extra services which were not

covered by the salaries of
six or four thousand dol-
lars, nor by the very many
fine opportunities for cor-
poration jobbery. But
general curiosity being
excited on the subject,
and prying inquiries made
as to the when and how,
the why and the where-
fore, these medals were
earned, voted and paid
for, the council boards
suddenly found it conve-
nient to pretend utter ig-
norance of the whole mat-
ter, and to quietly pay for
the medals themselves, to
put into the melting pot.
The truth of the matter
seems to have been that
one of the sub-committees
appointed to make ar-
rangements for the public
festival of the 29th Octo-
ber, to celebrate the ad-
mission of California into
the Union, had wilfully
or ignorantly overstepped
their duties, and, assum-

Aldermen's Meda!. jng thc glad COUSCnt of

their rbiethren, had ordered these medals, on pretence of suitably

decara:tmg the aldermen for the occasion. But unluckily the

medals -were not, and (Could not have been procured in time for

- thatxelebration. 4 The whole afiair became an excellent joke, al-

CAUSES OF LITIGATION. 307

though a somewhat bitter one against the goaded council. To
perpetuate the memory of those happy, or unhappy times for
our " city fathers," we give illustrations of the wonderful medal.
It will be noticed that a blank is left in the inscription for the
name of the worthy recipient.

All human institutions are subject to abuse, and especially in
the youth of a quickly growing community, where every member
is heart and soul occupied in providing only for himself Many
charges have been made and more insinuated, as to the corrupt,
careless, and extravagant behavior of most of the officials, since
the fall of Mexican power, down even to 1854, in the adminis-
tration of the revenues and properties, both of the State of Cal-
ifornia and of the City of San Francisco. In a country and
place like these, where hitherto gold has been pretty generally the
only thing supposed to be worth living for, one cannot avoid be-
lieving that many of these charges and insinuations were true ;
and yet the occupants of office might otherwise have been " in-
different honest " men, and, after all, perhaps quite as good as
their clamant neighbors. When any transaction of a particularly
glaring, base or improper nature was found out, public opinion
was sure to rise in rebellion and shame the rogues to common
decency at least. Much popular feeling was, at one period of
1850, expended at "mass" and "indignation" meetings against
the municipal authorities ; but, by and by, the community, who
could not afford the pecuniary loss of such gratis excitement and
attention, settled down into comparative calmness and indiffer-
ence.

The " Colton G-rants " and the " Leidesdorff Estate," proved
the means of much litigation in the courts of law, and from the
great extent of pecuniary interest involved, and the variety of
parties interested, these legal matters became of exceeding pub-
lic importance, and merit a passing allusion. We have already
noticed the death of Mr. Leidesdorff on the 18th May, 1848.
Circumstances had led that gentleman to become a Mexican
citizen about the year 1844, whereby he was enabled to hold, as
he afterwards acquired, real estate to a large extent in Yerba
Buena and its neighborhood, now San Francisco. From the
great immigration which subsequently took place, this property

308 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

suddenly became of immense value. Mr. Leidesdorff was re-
puted to have died some fifty thousand dollars in debt, and yet
within two years afterwards his estate was worth nearly a million.
This indeed was a prize worth contending for. The very admin-
istration of its revenues, at San Francisco charges, was the means
of making annual fortunes to lucky agents. Hence the legal
strife, and perhaps the imputing and bandying of improper mo-
tives among the judges and parties chiefly interested. The
Leidesdorff estate was subsequently claimed by the State of Cal-
ifornia, on the ground that Mr. Leidesdorff had died intestate,
leaving only alien, though legitimate relatives, whereby his pro-
perty escheated to the State. In the spring of 1854, measures
were about to be taken by the Legislature to make that claim
effectual

The financial condition of the city continued in a very bad
state. Large sums of money were raised on scrip and loan war-
rants, for the purposes of municipal improvements and to defray
the ordinary expenses, which there seemed no apparent means of
soon redeeming. It is true the city possessed considerable pro-
perty, but it was not yet time to sell it to advantage, while the
pressure of taxation was beginning to be heavily felt by the in-
habitants. The interest payable for public loans, as likewise in
the case of private accommodation of the kind, was exceedingly
great, the ordinary rates varying from five to eight "per cent, per
month. When private parties borrowed, they had generally to
give real security for the amount, and to pay these high rates of
interest monthly in advance.

The social and moral state of general society had meanwhile
improved but little. Gambling indeed was not pursued, at least
openly, by the more respectable classes, and among all it was
much diminished in intensity. The common council had like-
wise passed ordinances which effectually prevented the public fol-
lowing of the avocation on Sunday. But notwithstanding this
tribute to religious decency, and check against one branch of
profligacy, crime was increasing, and the boldness and number of
the criminals became very alarming. All manner of burglaries,
robberies and thefts were of daily occurrence. So were personal
assaults of an aggravated nature ; while murders were repeatedly

INCREASE OF CRIME.

309

taking place. A great many attempts at incendiarism had been
detected, although the charge seldom or never could be fairly

If, however, there were some legal

brought home to individuals.

San Francisco, Winter of 1S49-50, showing Montgomery street North from California street.
For same view in 1854, see Frontispiece.

uncertainty on the subject, which prevented convictions, no moral
doubt existed but that there was an active and numerous band
of desperadoes existing in the city, who added to many other
crimes that of wilful fire-raising. They did not display banners
and march in procession through the streets to the music of drum
and fife, hke the old " hounds," but nevertheless they seemed to
be as thoroughly organized and to support each other when ne-
cessary, as that notorious gang of villains. Besides the numerous
real cases, false alarms of fire were still more frequently raised ;
and during the attendant confusion many depredations were
committed. Hundreds of the loafer and rowdy class haunted the
town, who had no visible means of support, and whose lives
showed only one continued scene of vice, crime and violence.
There seemed a wide-spread combination among the rogues to
divide systematically the difierent branches and gains of their un-

310 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

hallowed profession ; and from petty theft and swindling up to
hio-hway robbery and murder, the actors seemed to be perfect
adepts in their several parts. The prisons were full ; but they
could not hold a tithe of the offenders. The police were few and
not very highly paid, and they could not pretend to cope with the
more daring rascals, who defied all their efforts at capture and
conviction. False swearing at trials, by trusty and unblushing
comrades, confounded the few prosecutions and ensured ultimate
escape to the most guilty.

People, at last, began to talk among themselves of the urgent
necessity of again adopting Lynch law, since the tedious and un-
certain measures of the authorities did not seem to have the
effect of terrifying and putting down the disturbers of the public
peace. Even a portion of the newspaper press boldly advocated
such doctrines ; considering that the present alarming juncture
of events formed such an exceptional case as to require a depart-
ure from the ordinary course of administering justice. As the
successive conflagrations had developed a large volunteer force to
watch over the safety of the town from fire, so the continued in-
crease of open and daring crime was certain in the end to induce
the establishment of a great police that would not be trifled with,
but would uproot, by some sure and terrible means, villainy and
villains wherever they could be found. Already the necessity of
such a police was recognized, and it only wanted a few more glar-
ing cases of outrage, spoil and murder, to give it a sudden being
a,nd irresistible strength.

CHAPTER XIV.
1851.

The Gold Blaffs and Pacific Mining Company.— The oscitement at the City Hall In February, 1851.
— Attempt to Lynch Burdae and Windred. — Their sabseqaent escape. — Earning of the steamers
Hartford and Santa Clara.

January. — San Francisco has been startled "from its propriety"
by news from the celebrated " Gold Bluffs ; " and during the
greater part of this month has dreamed unutterable things of
black sand, and gray sand, and cargoes of gold. A band of pio-
neers and prospecters had recently proceeded in the Chesapeake
steamer northwards to the Klamath River, near which, on the sea
shore, they fancied they had found the richest and most extra-
ordinary gold field that had ever been known. The sands of the
sea, for a broad space several miles in length, beneath chffs some
hundred feet high, appeared to be literally composed in one half,
at least, of the pure metal. Millions of diggers for ages to come
could not exhaust that grand deposit. Already a few miners had
collected about the spot ; but these were so amazed and lost in
the midst of the surrounding treasure that they knew not what
to do. Like the ass with its superabundance of hay, they could
not resolve to begin any thing. No man could well carry more
than seventy-five or a hundred pounds weight upon his back for
any great distance, and with that quantity of pure gold it was
ridiculous, so it was, to be content, when numberless tons lay
about. So these men — there were just nineteen of them — (the
tellers of the story were very particular in some facts), — had re-
solved to wait till the spring, when they would freight and fill a
ship with the wealth which they were then jealously watching
over. Let us not be misunderstood, or supposed altogether jest-
ing. A brilliant reporter for the Alta California says — "The

312 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

gold is mixed with the black sand in proportions of from ten cents
to ten dollars the pound. At times, when the surf is high, the
gold is not easily discovered, but in the spring of the year, after
a succession of calms, the entire beach is covered with bright and
yellow gold. Mr. CoUins, the secretaiy of the Pacific Mining
Company, measured a patch of gold and sand, and estimates it
will yield to each member of the company the snug little sum of
$43,000,000 \say, forty-three millions of doUars !] and the esti-
mate is formed upon a calculation that the sand holds out to be
one tenth as rich as observation warrants them in supposing,"
No digging even was required, since one had only to stoop a little
and raise as much as he wished of the stuff — half gold, half sand,
from the surface of the beach.

Back the adventurers hastened to San Francisco, where they
had long been impatiently expected ; and the glorious news ran
like vsdld-fire among the people. General John Wilson and Mr.
John A. Collins, both of whom had been among the number of
discoverers, frankly testified to the truth of these wonderful state-
ments. The beach, they said, for a great distance, was literally
strewed with pure gold. It was found in the greatest quantity
in a certain kind of " black sand," although the " gray sand,"
which was rather more abundant, contained hkewise a large pro-
portion of the same black-colored stuff with its special share of
gold. " Mr. Collins," says the poetic reporter, " saw a man [one
of the nineteen, no doubt,] who had accumulated fifty thousand
pounds, or fifty thousand tons — he did not recollect which — of
the richest kind of black sand."

Such intelligence astounded the community. In a few days
eight vessels were announced as about to sail for this extraordinary
region. The magic phrase " Gold Bluffs ! " " Gold Bluffs ! ! "
every where startled the most apathetic, and roused him as with
a galvanic shock. " Gold Bluffs ! ! ! " filled the columns of
newspapers among the shipping advertisements ; they covered,
on huge posters, the blank walls of houses at the corners of the
streets ; they were in every man's mouth. A company was
formed called the "Pacific Mining Company," the shares of
which instantly rose to a handsome premium. There seemed
no douot of their incalculable gains, since they showed

THE GOLD BLUFFS. 333

numerous samples of the wondrous " black sand/' where the
golden particles lay and shone mildly, as stars in the milky way,
innumerable. The company had already, by the greatest good
fortune, secured a considerable number of miners' claims, em-
bracing indeed the entire beach beneath the " Bluffs," so that all
was clear for immediate operations. We have seen the intelli-
gent secretary's calculations on the subject. No wonder people
raved, and either invested a few thousand dollars in shares of this
company, or sold or forsook their all, and made sail for the Gold
Bluffs. The ancient excitement of Mississippi and South Sea
schemes was a bagatelle in comparison with that which now
stirred San Francisco, used though it had been to all manner of
rumors of placers, and gigantic " pockets " of gold. The skepti-
cism of envious un-" progressive" people was happily ridiculed,
and the press compared the ocean to a mighty cradle that had
been rocking and washing up gold from the bottom of the sea
for unknown ages, and had chanced to throw it in tons and ship-
loads beneath the hitherto undiscovered Gold Bluffs. It was tru-
ly great news for San Francisco.

The first damper to the hot blast that raged through the
town, and from whence it spread and fired up distant countries,
— until the arrival of the next mail, — was intelligence from the
earliest miners, that they found it very difficult to separate first
the black sand from the gray, and next the gold itself from the
black sand, the particles of the precious metal being so remarka-
bly fine. A little later, it was found that the innumerable
" patches " of black sand began most unaccountably to disap-
pear. Heavy seas came and swept them right away ; and though
it was hoped that heavier seas might soon bring them back again,
the people got tired of waiting for that event, and hastily fled
from the place, ashamed of their own hopes and credulity, and
cursing the cruel wags that had exhibited in San Francisco sealed
phials of dingy sand largely mixed with brass filings.

But we cannot pursue this pleasantry farther. Much serious
loss was suffered by the Gold Bhffs piece of business. The un-
fortunate "Pacific Mining Company" had bought the Chesa^
peaJce at a cost for boat and repairs of tiventy tJiousand dollars,
had run her up the coast several trips at the loss of as many

314 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

thousands more, and afterwards, when she had been injured in a
storm, were glad to sell her for about two thousand dollars. If,
however, the shareholders, or any single adventurer lost much
money — why, they had at one time the most brilliant hopes im-
aginable of immense riches ; and these were surely some com-
pensation. For what, after all, is life without hojpe ? There
was considerable gold at the Bluffs, but it turned out in the end
to cost more trouble to gather than it was worth. Hence the
place was abandoned, except by a few still hopeful individuals,
after a few months' trial. Since the whole affair formed a very
striking, though latterly a ridiculous event in the progress of San
Francisco, we could not refuse it a place in these " Annals."

February. — ^After the affair of the " Hounds," in 1849, the
citizens left the execution of the laws against criminals in the
hands of the constituted authorities. Either the laws, however,
or the authorities, or something else soon went wrong, and crime
fearfully increased. At length, not only were the people serious-
ly inclined to believe that they must take the law back to them-
selves and issue it in a new form, but the public journals dis-
cussed the matter gravely and argumeutatively, and urged the
instant appointment of " volunteer police," or " regulators," who
would supply the place of an inefficient executive and judicature.
Hitherto there had been no organization for the purpose men-
tioned, although occasional mobs had ducked or whipped offend-
ers caught in the act of crime.

On the 19th of this month, about eight o'clock in the eve-
ning, two men entered the store of C. J. Jansen & Co., and, pro-
fessing to be purchasers, asked to see some blankets. Mr. Jan-
sen, who was alone in the store, was in the act of producing the
articles, when he was violently struck with a slung shot, and fell
insensible on the floor. While in that state he seems to have
been farther maltreated, and was probably considered by the
ruffians as dead. These robbed the premises of two thousand
dollars, and immediately fled. The whole circumstances of the
outrage were of the most daring character, and the knowledge
of them caused much excitement among the people. The next
day a man was arrested, believed to be one James Stuart, but
who gave his name as Thomas Burdue, on the charge of having

BURDUE AND WINDRED EXCITEMENT.

315

murdered Mr. Moore, the Sheriff of Auburn, and of havmg
robbed him of four thousand dollars. Stuart had been confined
in the jail of Sacramento to await his trial, but had escaped two
months before. Circumstances meanwhile had raised a suspicion
that this man Stuart, alias Burdue, had had something to do
with the attack on Mr. Jansen ; and accordingly he, and another

The City Hall, February 22(1, 1861.

person of the name of Windred, who had been apprehended on
suspicion of the same offence, were, on the 21st, confronted with
the wounded man. Jansen at once recognized Stuart and also
Windred, although with some faint doubt of the identity of the
latter, as being the two persons who had committed the assault
and the robbery. These circumstances being known, the citizens,
in a state of the greatest excitement, gathered, on the following
day (Saturday, 22d February), around the City Hall, where the
examination of the prisoners was going on. Upwards of five
thousand people thus collected. This was not a mob, but the
people, in the highest sense of the term. They wanted only a

316 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

leader to advise and guide them to any undertaking that pro-
mised relief from the awful state of social ten-or and danger to
which they were reduced. Handbills were extensively circulated
among the multitude, which were to the following effect : —

"citizens of SAN FRANCISCO.

" The series of murders and robberies that have been committed in this
city seems to leave us entirely in a state of anarchy. ' When thieves are
left without control to rob and kill, then doth the honest traveller fear each
bush a thief.' Law, it appears, is but a nonentity to be scoffed at ; redress can
be had for aggression but through the never failing remedy so admirably laid
down in the code of Judge Lynch. Not that we should admire this process
for redress, but that it seems to be inevitably necessary.

" Are we to be robbed and assassinated in our domiciles, and the law to
let our aggressors perambulate the streets merely because they have furnished
straw bail ? Tf so, ' let each man be his own executioner.' ' Fie upon your
laws ! ' They have no force.

" All those who would rid our city of its robbers and murderers, will
assemble on Simday at two o'clock on the plaza."

While the examination of the prisoners was progressing, a
shout arose among the assembled multitude, " Now is the time ; "
and many rushed into the court room to seize the accused out of
the hands of the authorities. This attempt was successfully re-
sisted. The " Washington Guards," who had been secretly sta-
tioned in an adjoining room, through the foresight of the recorder,
who had anticipated some outbreak of this nature, now rushed,
under the command of Capt. A. Bartol, into the court-hall, and
soon cleared it of its noisy occupants, while the prisoners were
hurried through a back door into the cells beneath. During the
whole day the excitement continued, and many of the spectators
remained about the place, though the greater number gradually
dispersed, chiefly through the persuasions of some parties who
thought hke themselves. Towards dusk the people again assem-
bled around the City Hall in greater numbers than before, when,
after some speeches, the following gentlemen were appointed a
committee to consult with the authorities and guard the prison-
ers till the next day, viz. : Messrs. W. D. M. Howard, Samuel
Brannan, A. J. EUis, H. F. Teschemacker, W. H. Jones, B.
Ray, G. A King, A. H. Sibley, J. L. Folsom, F. W. Macondray,
Ralph Dorr, Theodore Payne, Talbot H, Green, and J. B. Huie.

BURDUE AND WINDRED EXCITEMENT. 317

This committee the same evening met in the recorder's room,
und discussed the position of affairs, and what was next to be
done. To show the temper, not of this committee, for they were
moderate and cautious in their proceedings, but of the general
public on the occasion, we may quote a short speech by Mr.
Brannan, who seems to have been always for stringing up and
hanging every rogue outright, on the shortest possible grace.
His language was certainly to the point, and quite accorded with
the sentiments of a great majority of the vast multitude that
was anxiously waiting without. One of the committee having
proposed that the citizens should choose a jury to try the prison-
ers, Mr. Brannan said : —

" I am very much surprised to hear people talk about grand ju-
ries, or recorders, or mayors. I'm tired of such talk. These men
are murderers, I say, as well as thieves. I know it, and I will
die or see them hung by the neck. I'm opposed to any farce in
this business. We had enough of that eighteen months ago
[alluding to the affair of the " hounds,"] when we allowed ourselves
to be the tools of these judges, who sentenced convicts to be sent
to the United States. We are the mayor and the recorder, the
hangman and the laws. The law and the courts never yet hung a
man in California ; and every morning we are reading fresh ac-
counts of murders and robberies. I want no technicalities.
Such things are devised to shield the guilty."

The rest of the committee did not exactly think with Mr.
Brannan, and after appointing a patrol of twenty citizens to
watch over the prisoners, a majority of them adopted a resolution
by Captain Howard, that they should adjourn to the following
day, on the plaza, to report the proceedings to the people.

Next day (Sunday), about eight thousand people collected
round the court-house. Mayor Geary, and others on the part of
the authorities then addressed them, advising coolness and mod-
eration, and suggesting that a committee of twelve of their
number should be appointed to sit as a jury along with the pre-
siding justice on the trial to take place the following day, the
verdict of which jury should be final. Other counsels, however,
l)revailed ; and on the motion of Mr. Wm. T. Coleman, a com-
mittee of twelve was appointed, to retire and consider the best

318 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

course of action to be adopted. Almost immediately afterwards
this committee returned and reported, that the trial should be
conducted by and among themselves — that if the legal courts
choose to assist in the business, they were welcome and invited to
do so ; but if not, that counsel should be assigned to the prison-
ers a public prosecutor appointed, and the trials immediately
commenced. This was all accordingly done. The public au-
thorities having declined to interfere farther in the matter, and
beino- powerless before so numerous a body, retired from the con-
test.

At two o'clock of the same day, the committee and a great
number of citizens assembled in the recorder's room, while out-
side, in Kearny and Pacific streets, an immense multitude had
collected. The following parties were thenempanneledasajury,
viz. :— E. S. Watson, S. J. L. Smiley, W. E. Stoutenburg, J. L.
Riddle, George Endicott, D. K. Minor, George A. Hudson,
David Page, Jas. H. Kobinson, J. E. Schenck, S. J. Thompson
and I. C. Pelton. J. R. Spence was appointed to preside on the
bench, and H. R. Bowie and C. L. Ross were named associate
judges. J. E. Townes was selected to officiate as sheriff, and
W. A. Jones as judge's clerk. Mr. Coleman was chosen public
prosecutor, and Judge Shattuck and Hall McAllister were ap-
pointed counsel for the prisoners. We are particular in giving
the names of these gentlemen, since they show the high charac-
ter and social standing of the parties who were concerned in this
movement against the legal and municipal authorities. As we
said before, the crowd was not a mob, but emphatically the peqpZe.
After evidence was led for the prosecution, an impartial charge
was given by Mr. Spence. The jury then retired, and were ab-
sent a considerable time, as they seemed unable to agree upon a
verdict. Seeing there were no signs of being able to come to a
speedy agreement, they returned to the court, and their foreman
reported that nine were for conviction, and three had doubts.
Much disappointment and agitation was now manifested by the
people, who had considered the prisoners clearly guilty on the
testimony. Loud cries burst from all quarters of " Hang them,
any how ! A majority rules ! " After some time order was re-
stored, and the jury were discharged. It was now midnight, and

BURDUE AND WINDRED EXCITEMENT. 319

the numbers present were considerably diminished. The same
excitement, however, prevailed, and it required all the efforts of
the cooler and wiser portion of the assembly to preserve peace
and decorum to the end. Addresses were spoken to this effect
by Mr, Smyth Clarke, Dr. Rabe and Mr. Hutton. The latter
gentleman was now chosen chairman, and the meeting adjourned
to the outside of the building. At last — twenty minutes to one
o'clock on Monday morning, — the question was put from the
chair, that they should indefinitely adjourn, which being answered
affirmatively, the crowd quietly dispersed.

During this excitement, it is proper to remark, that the
mayor had collected together not only the regular police of the
city, but an additional volunteer force of about two hundred and
fifty citizens, and had determined that no injury should be done
the prisoners until they were legally tried and found guilty of the
alleged crime. In the mean time, parties were organized, who
were resolved to seize the prisoners at all events, and hang them
at the nearest convenient place, without regard either to decency
or justice ; and to carry out this object several attempts were
made to break into the station-house where the prisoners were
confined ; but these were successfully resisted by the strong and
determined force which the foresight of the mayor had gathered
and with which the City Hall was surrounded.

The occasion of this outbreak was the greatest that hitherto
ever agitated San Francisco, and the exciting scenes of Satur-
day and Sunday will be long remembered by the citizens
of the period. For thirty-six hours the whole town had
been in an uproar, and during a great part of that time many
thousands of persons had been gathered in the court-room or in
the streets outside. For months their patience had been severely
tried by the knowledge that crimes of the most atrocious descrip-
tion — murders, burglaries, thefts, fire-raisings and violent assaults,
had been of daily occurrence, and that few or no adequate pun-
ishments had been inflicted by the courts on the perpetrators.
On this occasion the long suppressed ire against the supineness
of the authorities burst forth, and the people were determined to
make an example of those whom they believed guilty of the
shocking assault upon Mr. Jansen and the robbery of his store.

320 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

They were indeed deceived in regard to the true criminals, and
mi-ht have hanged innocent men. But the good sense of their
temporary leaders, and a return to dispassionate reflection, hin-
dered the execution of the sentence of death, which the general
multitude wished to pronounce.

We may here shortly state the further incidents connected
with the prisoners in relation to this matter. After being tried
by the people, as above mentioned, when no unanimous verdict
could be obtained, they were handed over to the proper authori-
ties, by whom they were put a second time upon trial, for the
same offence, according to the ordinary legal forms. On this oc-
casion both prisoners were found guilty, and sentenced to four-
teen years' imprisonment, being the highest penalty which the
law could inflict for the imputed offence. Windred shortly after-
wards escaped by cutting a hole through the floor of his prison.
Stuart, alias Burdue, was sent to MarysviUe, to stand his trial
for the murder of Mr. Moore, already noticed. He was found
guilty for this crime also, and was sentenced to be hanged. This
was in the course of the summer. Meanwhile, the Vigilance
Committee, which had been recently organized, had contrived to
lay hands on the true Stuart, who turned out not only to have
been the murderer of Mr. Moore, but also one of those who
had assaulted and robbed Mr. Jansen. Stuart was subsequently
hanged by the people for these and other crimes, as detailed in
our chapter on the Vigilance Committee. It was satisfactorily
shown that neither Burdue nor Windred had ever had the slight-
est connection with any of the offences for which they were
charged. The whole affair was a most curious case of mistaken
identity. Burdue was at different places, and by different juries,
twice convicted, and twice in the most imminent risk of death
for the commission of offences of which he was perfectly inno-
cent ! The luckless man was sent back to San Francisco, where
his sentence of imprisonment was annulled, and himself released.
A handsome subscription was raised among the citizens to com-
pensate in some measure for his repeated sufferings. What be-
came of hun ultimately we know not ; but doubtless, in his cups,
he will wax eloquent, and have strange stories to tell of his
" hair-breadth 'scapes." Shortly after receiving the subscription

TWO STEAMERS BURNED. 321

from the citizens, lie was seen on Long Wharf playing at
"French Monte," and lustily bawling to the passers-by — " The
ace ! the ace ! — a hundred dollars to him who will tell the ace !
— The ace ! — The ace ! — who will name the ace of spades ? A
hundred dollars to any man who will tell the ace ! "

March 3d. — The steamers Hartford and Santa Clara were
burned this morning at Long Wharf

CHAPTER XV.
1851.

Judge Parsons and the case of "William Walker for contempt of Court. — Act of Legislature ceding
Beach and Water Lots to the City of San Francisco. — Act to re-incorporate the city. — New city
limits.— First election of municipal officers under revised charter. — Act passed to fund the State
debt.— Act to establish State Marine Hospital.— Act to fund the floating debt. — Indebtedness of
the city.— Municipal officers trafficking in city scrip.— Fifth great fire.

March 9th. — An "indignation" meeting, at which there
were several thousand persons present, was held to-day on the
plaza, to consider the conduct of Judge Levi Parsons, of the Dis-
trict Court, towards Mr. William Walker, one of the editors of
the Daily Herald. It appears that for some time before this
date the general public press had been endeavoring to rouse the
community to a full knowledge of the increasing and alarming
state of crime, and, in doing so, had taken repeated occasion to
criticise severely the "masterly inactivity" of the judicature in
trying and punishing criminals. This appears to have displeased
Judge Parsons, and he thereupon, in an address to the grand ju-
ry, chose to style the press a " nuisance," and insinuated that the
jury might offer some presentment on the subject. The grand
jury, however, did not gratify his wishes. His honor's observa-
tions became a new text for the now offended press ; and, among
other unpleasant things, they began to take grave exceptions to
his knowledge and application of the law as regarded grand and
petit juries. The Herald, in an article headed " The Press a
Nuisance," was especially severe in its strictures. A few mem-
bers of the bar next began to make some feeble movement to •
soothe their brother on the bench ; but their affected indignation
only provoked laughter and made matters worse. Judge Parsons
thereupon — some days after the obnoxious article had been pub-
hshed, issued an order from his own court to bring before him

JUDGE PARSONS AND WILLIAM WALKER. 323

Mr. Walker, the acknowledged or reputed author of the article
in question, Mr, Walker accordingly appeared, and was duly
convicted by his honor, — who was plaintiff, judge and jury in the
case, — of contempt of court, fined five hundred dollars, and or-
dered to be kept in safe custody until the amount was paid.
The ofi'ender having declined to pay the fine, refusing to recog-
nize his honor's jurisdiction in and summary settlement of the
matter, was forthwith imprisoned for an indefinite time.

These circumstances being extensively made known, produced
great excitement in the city. One and all of the press were
down — to use an expressive vulgarism — upon his honor ; and
as the people considered that the cause of the press was substan-
tially their own, they resolved to make a " demonstration " on
the subject. An "indignation" meeting accordingly was held,
as above mentioned, at which resolutions were passed approving
of Walker's conduct, and requesting Parsons to resign his judicial
situation as no longer fit to hold it. A committee was then
formed to transmit these resolutions to the latter. At the same
time, the senators and representatives of the district were re-
quested to propose articles of impeachment against the ofifending
judge. The meeting next in a body, — some four thousand
strong, — paid a personal visit of condolence and sympathy to
Mr. Walker in prison.

Meanwhile, the matter was carried by a writ of habeas corpus
into the Superior Court, by which Mr. Walker was discharged.
It was held that Judge Parsons had abused his position, and
that while the ordinary tribunals were open to him, if he consid-
ered that Mr. Walker had committed a libel, he had no right to
cite and punish summarily that gentleman for any alleged con-
tempt, that might be inferred from the published statements and
remarks in a newspaper. The contrary doctrine would be de-
structive of the freedom of the press, and was opposed to the
universally recognized principles of the constitution. This judg-
ment was considered a great popular triumph. In the mean
time, the question was farther discussed before the Legislature ;
and, on the 26th instant, a committee of the Assembly, upon the
memorial of Walker, " convinced that Judge Parsons had been
guilty of gross tyranny and oppression in the imprisonment of

324 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

the memorialist," recommended the impeachment of the former.
The majority of a select committee, however, afterwards appoint-
ed to inquire into the charges against Parsons, having reported
that these, "and the testimony given in support of them, do
not show sufficient grounds for impeachment," the matter was
dropped.

At the period of which we write, the tribunals of justice were
considered altogether insufficient for those dangerous times, and
many of the individuals connected with them as both incapable
and corrupt. The public looked chiefly to the press for advice
and information as to their rights and duties, and had resolved
that it should not be gagged and put down " by illegal orders,
attachments, fines and imprisonments for imaginary contempts
against courts which cannot he reduced much loive7- than they
have reduced themselves." So said the resolutions of the " indig-
nation " meeting of the 9th instant ; and this language was gene-
rally applauded.

March 26th. — An act passed by the Legislature, ceding, for
the period of ninety-nine years, all the right and interest which
the State of California had in those parts of the city called the
Beach and Water Lots, provided that twenty-five per cent, of all
moneys thereafter arising in any way from the sale, or other dis-
position of the said property, should be paid over by the city to
the State. The same act confirmed, also for ninety-nine years,
all sales that had previously been made, in virtue of General
Kearny's grant to the city, by the ayuntamiento, or town or
city council, or by any alcalde of the city, the last having been
confirmed' by the said ayuntamiento, or town or city council,
and the deeds of these sales having been duly registered in the
proper books of records. This was a very important act, and
tended, in some great degree, to ease the minds of legal posses-
sors of city property. Owing to certain late conflicting decisions
of different judges, in regard to real estate, considerable doubt
had been cast upon the titles to almost every lot of vacant ground
within the municipal bounds, and squatters had been thereby
mightily encouraged to invade and secure for themselves the first
and best unoccupied land they saw. This led to much confusion
and even bloodshed among the contending claimants, and retard-

ACT TO RE-INCOKPORATE THE CITY. 325

ed for a considerable time the permanent improvement of the
city. The " Colton grants," of recent notoriety, h'kewise in-
creased the general uncertainty in regard to titles. The above-
mentioned act of the Legislature was therefore considered a great
benefit, coming when it did, in regard to at least the " Beach
and Water Lots," about the titles to which there could be no
dispute.

An act was passed by the Legislature on the 1st of May fol-
lowing, by which the right of the State to these lots was for ever
relinquished to the city, provided only that the latter should con-
firm the grants of all lots within certain specified limits originally
made by justices of the peace. As this provision was intended
to sanction some of the obnoxious " Colton grants," the common
council did not consider it for the interest of the city to accept
the State's relinquishment upon such terms, and accordingly the
last-mentioned act became inoperative. The boards of alder-
men, however, who happened, it might be saidj to be somewhat
accidentally in office during 1852, attempted to force the pro-
visions of this most obnoxious act upon the citizens, but were
successfully opposed by the veto of Mayor Harris and the general
cry of public indignation. The act itself was, on the 12th of
March, 1852, repealed by the Legislature, just in time to prevent
some of the usual jobbery.

April 15th. — Act passed by the Legislature to re-incorporate
San Francisco. The limits were enlarged, and the city was
thereafter to be bounded as follows : — " On the south, by a line
parallel with Clay street, two and a half miles distant, in a south-
erly direction, from the centre of Portsmouth Square ; on the
west, by a Line parallel with Kearny street, two miles distant, in
a westerly direction, from the centre of Portsmouth Square. Its
northern and eastern boundaries shall be co-incident with those
of the county of San Francisco." As a copy of this act, which
is the existing charter of the city, is given in the Appendix, it is
unnecessary here to particularize its provisions. Nearly the same
variety and number of municipal officers are appointed to be
chosen annually under it as under the charter, already noticed,
of 1850, and which latter act was declared to be now repealed.

April 28th. — The first election of municipal officers under

326 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

the amended city charter took place to-day. Considerable excite-
ment had been manifested by the candidates and their friends,
and several torch-light meetings and processions, with other
popular demonstrations, had been going on for some time previ-
ous. The total number of votes polled was nearly six thousand.
The parties elected were as follows : —

Mayor. — Charles J. Brenham. Recorder. — R. H. Waller.

Comptroller. — George A. Hudson. Treasurer. — R. H. Sinton.

Marshal. — Robert G. Crozier. Tax Collector. — Thos. D. Greene.

City Attorney. — Frank M, Pixley. Street Commissioner. — Wm. Divier.

Becorder^s Clerk. — Jas. G. Pearson. County Judge. — Wm. H. Clark.

Public Administrator. — David T. Bagley.

City Assessors. — W. C. Norris, George Frank Lemon.

Aldcrme7i.

E. L. Morgan, 0. L. Ross, A. C. Labatt, C. M, K. Paulison,

Ralph Dorr. James Grant, George Endicott, William Greene.

Assistant Aldermen.

Henry A. Meiggs, W. W. Parker, T. H. Selby, W. D. Connell,

Jos. Galloway, J. F. Atwill, Jas. Graves, Q. S. Sparks.

April 29th. — Act passed by the Legislature to fund the debt
of the State. Bonds to the extent of $700,000 to be issued by
the treasurer, in lieu of scrip or other obligations of indebtedness
held by parties against the State. One-half of the sum men-
tioned is declared payable in New York upon the first day of
March, 1855, and the other half, also in the city named, upon
the first day of March, 1861. Interest (payable either in New
York or at the office of the treasurer) to run upon the bonds at
the rate of seven per cent, per annum. Henceforward all State
taxes to be paid only in the legal currency of the United States,
or in gold dust at the rate of sixteen dollars an ounce, excepting
as mentioned in the act. Various declarations are also made
for providing the interest, and as to the formation of a sinking
fund to redeem the bonds, for payment of the principal and in-
terest of which are pledged " the faith and credit of the State of
California."

April 30th. — Act passed by the Legislature establishing a
State Marine Hospital at San Francisco ; and, on 1st May, an-
other act passed to provide a revenue for the same. As both of

ACT TO FUND THE CITY DEBT. 327

these acts were amended in the succeeding session, they will be
noticed among the events of 1852.

May 1st. — Act passed by the Legislature, " to authorize the
funding of the floating debt of the city of San Francisco, and to
provide for the payment of the same." Peculiar circumstances,
such as the necessity of grading and improving the pubhc streets,
building certain wharves, the purchase of expensive premises for
corporate purposes, the monstrous salaries claimed by the boards
of aldermen and other municipal authorities, the heavy outlay
attending the hospital, fire and police departments, contingent
expenses to a very large amount, printing, ( — §41,905 20 for
only nineteen montns ! — ) surveying and numberless other
charges, had involved the city in an enormous gross amount of
indebtedness. By the Comptroller's Report, the total expenditure
of the city from the 1st August, 1849, to the 30th November,
1850, was §1,450,122 57 ; and in the three following months a
further expenditure was created of §562,617 53. In the space
of nineteen months, therefore, the total expenditure was upwards
of two millions of dollars. But as neither the property of the
city, which had already been sold to a great extent, nor its ordi-
nary revenues, were adequate to defray this immense sum, the
municipal authorities had been for a considerable period obliged
to issue scri}), in immediate satisfaction or acknowledgment of
the corporation debts. This scrip, as the city got farther in-
volved and could only make payment of its new obligations in the
same kind of paper, soon became much depreciated, and was lite-
rally in common sale at from fifty to seventy per cent, dis-
count. Meanwhile, nobody would do any business for the city
on the same terms as they would for other parties, so long as
they were to be paid in this depreciated scrip. The natural con-
sequence was that the municipal officers had just virtually to pay,
or rather give their promise to pay, twice or thrice the amounts
they would have needed to lay out, if the city had been solvent,
Nvdth cash in hand to meet all obligations. This circumstance
therefore still farther added to the enormous weight of debt.

Truly the city seems to have been long considered fair game
for every one who had spirit, skill, and corruption enough to prey
upon its means. The officials complained that their salaries

328 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

were paid in depreciated scrip. That was true, and hard enough
upon many ; but, on the other hand, certain leading office-liold-
ers made a fine thing of this same depreciation. They contrived
to purchase vast quantities of corporation paper at one-third of
its nominal value, which they turned over, in their several depart-
ments, to the city at par. In various ways they trafficked in
this scrip, and always to their own great advantage. The tax-
collector, for instance, refused to receive scrip in payment of
license duties and other city taxes, on one ground or other, that
it was not yet due, and the like, while instead of paying into the
city treasurer the cash which was actually received, he only handed
over his own comparatively worthless paper, purchased with the
city's cash for that express purpose. The comptroller and trea-
surer were likewise parties concerned in this species of specula-
tion. Considerable fortunes were thus gained by sundry officials,
who could ^^ finesse," and make money in any state of the corpo-
ration exchequer. Doubtless they quietly and gaily said to
themselves, as the public thought, that " it was an ill-wind that
blew nobody good." In those days — so recent, yet in the history
of San Francisco so virtually remote — jobbing and peculation
were rank, and seemed the rule in the city government. Public
honesty and conscientious attention to the interests of the com-
munity were solitary exceptions. To such an extent did nefa-
rious speculations in city paper prevail among people high in
office, that the Legislature was at last compelled to interfere,
and declare it a penal offence for any municipal officer to buy
scrip or to traffic in it in any manner of way.

Meanwhile the scrip was bearing interest at the rate of three
per cent, per month ! On the 1st day of March, 1851, the total
liabilities of the city were $1,099,557 5Q. At this time, the
whole corporation property, if forced to a public sale, would not
have brought one-third of that amount ; while, if interest were
to continue to run on the debt at the heavy rate just mentioned,
the ordinary revenues would have fallen lamentably short of
meeting it, after defraying the current expenses. In these cir-
cumstances, the act above mentioned was passed by the Legis-
lature.

By this act certain commissioners were appointed to manage

FIFTH GREAT FIRE. 329

the proposed "funded debt," who were empowered to issue stock,
bearing interest at the rate of ten per cent, per annum, payable
half-yearly, in lieu of scrip to a similar amoimt, which might be pre-
sented by holders of the same -within a specified time. This funded,
debt was to be redeemed wholly within twenty years, and i)artic-
ular obligations were laid on the city that the sums necessary to
be raised to pay the half-yearly interest, and ultimately the
principal, should be solely applied to these purposes. Fifty
thousand dollars, over and above the amount required to pay the
interest on the stock, were to be levied annually, which sum was
to be made use of by the commissioners, under certain restric-
tions, in buying up, and so gradually reducing the amount of the
city liabilities. As the stock thus created was considered to be
an undoubted security for the amounts it represented, which the
old scrip was not, and as the former soon bore a higher market
value than such scrip, the holders of the latter generally took
occasion to convert their floating into the funded debt. The
small amount of scrip never presented for conversion into stock
within the specified time, and which was chiefly held by parties
at a distance, was subsequently paid in full by the city. In
1S52, a great financial operation of a similar nature took place,
by which the then floating debt of the county of San Francisco
was converted into a seven per cent, stock. This will be more
particularly noticed in its chronological order.

May 4th. — The anniversary of the second great fire was sig-
nalized by the ffth, the ravages of wliich perhaps exceeded, in
gross amount, those of all the fires together that had previously
taken place in the city. For eight months the inhabitants had
enjoyed comparative immunity from conflagration. Although
single houses had caught fire, and been consumed, it was not be-
lieved that such a dreadful calamity* could come as that which
now happened. A considerable number of buildings, which were
supposed fire-proof, had been erected in the course of the preced-
ing year, the solid walls of which, it was thought, would afford
protection from the indefinite sj^reading of the flames, when fire
should unhappily break out in any particular building. But all
calcidations and hopes on this subject were mocked and broken.
The brick walls that had been so confidently relied upon crum-

330

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

bled in pieces before the furious flames ; the thick iron shutters
grew red hot and warjied, and only increased the danger and in-
sured final destruction to every thing within them. Men went
for shelter into these fancied fire-proof brick and iron-bound
structures, and when they sought to come forth again, to escape
the heated air that was destroying them as by a close fire, they

Fire of May 4th, 1851.

found, horror ! that the metal shutters and doors had expanded
by the heat, and could not be opened ! So, in these huge, sealed
furnaces, several perished miserably. Many more persons lost
their lives in other portions of the burned district, partly by the
flames, and partly by the tottering walls falling on and crushing
them.

The fire began a few minutes past eleven o'clock on the night
of Saturday, the 3d of May, in a paint, or upholstery store, on
the south side of the plaza. As particular care seems to have
been observed in this establishment to extinguish all lights and
fires, the sad work was likely commenced by an incendiary. The
wind blowing strongly from the north-west, the conflagration
proceeded in the direction of Kearny street, and soon swept

FIFTH GREAT FIRE. 331

before it all of the houses on some entire blocks. Then the
breeze suddenly shifted, and blew from the south, carrying the
fire backwards to the north and east. In a few hours the whole
business part of the city was one entire mass of flame ! The
wind that would have been considered high, though no fire had
existed, was now raised to a hurricane by the action of the flames,
that greedily sucked in the fresh air. The hollows beneath the
planked streets were like great blow-pipes, that stirred the fire to
fearful activity. Through such strange channels, too, which
themselves became as dry and inflammable as tinder, the flames
were communicated from street to street, and in an amazingly
short time the whole surface, over a wide region, glowed, crackled,
and blazed, one immense fiery field. The reflection from the sky
of this terrific conflaijration was said to have been visible at Mon-
terey, nearly a hundred miles off ! where it filled the super-
stitious and timid with dismay and irrepressible terror. On all
sides in the doomed city there was heard the fierce roar, as of
many storms, that drovNTied the shouts of men and the shrieks of
women. The firemen plied their engines vigorously, and sent
showers of water on the wild flames, that only served to increase
their fury. As the solid stream of some lofty cataract is scat-
tered into spray and thin mist long before it reaches the earth in
the chasm beneath, so were the jets from the fire-engines dissi-
pated into clouds of mere steam which never fell upon or could
not extinguish the hot centre of the resistless element. Houses
were blown up, but the fire leaped lightly across the gaps, and
pursued its terrible course. It ran along the planked streets,
and from block to block, almost as if they were but a train of
gunpowder. The short space of ten hours, from the commence-
ment of the fire, saw from fifteen hundred to two thousand
houses completely ruined. In the end, the absolute want of fur-
ther fuel to consume was the chief cause of the conflagration
ceasing. Eighteen entire squares, with portions of five or six
others, were devastated, and, with fewer than twenty exceptions,
all the houses and property of every description were totally de-
stroyed. Only five of the brick buildings on Montgomery street
escaped destruction, and ten or twelve in other localities. The
burned district extended about three-fourths of a mile from north

332

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

to south, and one-third of a mile from east to west. In this space
was comprehended the most valuable part of the city, and where
the most precious goods and merchandise were stored. All was
destroyed ! The damage was moderately estimated at from ten
to twelve milHons of dollars.

San Francisco after the fire of May 4th, 1851.

In this conflagration some of the old store-ships that had
been hauled high upon the beach, and gradually closed in by the
streets growing over the bay, were consumed. Of these was the
old " Niantic." This vessel had long lain fixed at the corner of
Clay and Sansome streets, where the hotel, which bears its name,
was afterwards erected. The "Apollo" and " General Harrison"
were also burned. Among the incidents of the fire, it may be
mentioned that Dewitt & Harrison saved their warehouse by using
vinegar in the absence of water, eighty thousand gallons of the
former fluid having been employed by them in protecting the
building. By breaking up the wharves, and so cutting ofi" the
connection with the burning masses, the immense amount of val-
uable shipping in the harbor was saved, which at one time was in
the most imminent peril.

FIFTH GREAT FIRE. 333

San Francisco had never before suffered so severe a blow, and
doubts were entertained by the ignorant that she could possibly
recover from its effects. Such doubts were vain. The bay was
still there, and the people were also there ; the placers of the
State were not yet exhausted, and its soil was as fertile and in-
viting as ever. The frightful calamity, no doubt, would retard
the triumphant progress of the city — but only for a time. Sour,
pseudo-religious folk on the shores of the Atlantic, might
mutter of Sodom and Gomorrah, and prate the idlest nonsense,
while envious speculators in cities of California itself, that
would fain rival the glories of its grand port, miglit i)reach
till doomsday of the continual strong winds that prevailed in
the latter place, and which were certain, so they said, among
thousands of wooden houses, to fan the veriest spark into a con-
flagration, again and again. The citizens of San Francisco were
content only to curse and vow vengeance on the incendiaries that
kindled the fire, and resolved to be better prepared in future to
resist its spreading ravages. After the first short burst of sorrow,
the ruined inhabitants, many of whom had been burned out time
after time by the successive fires, began again, like the often per-
secuted spider with its new web, to create still another town and
another fortune. While the city lay one vast black and still
smoking tract, preparations were made to erect new buildings.
These were generally at first formed of wood, low in height,
limited in extent, and slightly constructed ; but, before long,
such rough, slim, temporary structures, began to give place to
the present magnificent buildings that decorate our streets. But
one other great fire was to come.

CHAPTER XVI.
1851.

T. Butler King removing the custom-house deposits. — Frank Ball's song, and cnstom-honse appoint-
ment. — Dr. Eobinson's riiymes. — Incendiarism. — The case of Lewis, charged with arson. — The
facilities with which criminals escaped from punishment — The Vigilance Committee. — Contracts
of Mr. Merrifield and the Mountain Lake Water Company to supply the city with water.

May 28th. — The custom-house, at the corner of Montgomery
and Cahforuia streets, having been destroyed by the fire of the
4th instant, another building was speedily fitted up for the same
purposes at the corner of Kearny and Washington streets. The
treasure, amounting to upwards of a million of dollars, had been
preserved in a large safe (which had escaped damage from the
fire) in the old building. To-day the removal of this treasure to
the new custom-house took place ; and the manner of doing so
created some little excitement and much laughter in the town,
from the excessive care and military display which the collector
thought fit to adopt on the occasion. Some thirty gigantic,
thick-bearded fellows, who were armed with carbines, revolvers
and sabres, surrounded the cars containing the specie, while the
Honorable T. Butler King stood aloft on a pile of ruins with a
huge " Colt" in one hand and a bludgeon in the other, marshal-
hng his men and money " the way that they should go." The
extraordinary procession proceeded slowly along Montgomery street
to the new custom-house, Mr. King, marching, hke a proud drum-
major, at the head of his miniature grand army. The people,
meanwhile, looked on with astonishment, and with some grief,
that their city should be considered so lawless and wicked a place
as to require so formidable a force even to guard miUions of trea-
sure in broad dayhght, and along one or two of the principal
streets, where there were continually present thousands of the

REMOVAL OF THE CUSTOM-HOUSE TREASURE. 335

most respectable inhabitants. But immediately the farcical na-
ture of the whole exhibition struck the most phlegmatic, and
peals of laughter and cries of ironical applause accompanied the
brave defenders of " Uncle Sam's'' interests to the end of their
perilous march. It was felt that there was but one thing wanted
to make the show complete — half-a-dozen great guns from the
presidio.

In the absence of other matters of local importance, this
bloodless achievement formed the subject of a humorous song,
composed by a young man of the town, and which he sang in
one or more of the public saloons, on many occasions, " with
much applause." The thing had a run, and served to fill the
clever author's purse. He had a large number of copies litho-
graphed, on which was a caricature print of the procession, and
these he disposed of at a dollar apiece. In a single night he
sold five hundred coj)ies at this rate. As the tune to which the
song was set was a popular and easy one, soon the town rang
with the story of " The King's Campaign." But besides this
effusion, there immediately appeared innumerable paragraphs,
squibs, jests, good sayings in social circles and the public jour-
nals. It is one of the penalties which people must pay for their
superiority in place over their neighbors that their actions are
pretty severely criticised, and, when occasion serves, ridiculed.
It was so here " with a will," and to Collector King's great mor-
tification. " Uneasy lies the head that wears a crown." But
kings and collectors have potent remedies for the many evils
that beset them, Frank Ball, the writer of the song in ques-
tion, was shortly afterwards sent for by the collector, and favored
with a private interview. Ordinary men might have " beat
about the bush," or employed a friend in the little transaction
which followed ; but the Hon. T, Butler King, with the same
dauntless face which he showed on occasion of the treasure re-
moval, bluntly began conversation with the anxious poet, by ask-
ing whether he would not like to have a desirable post in the cus-
toms, Mr. Ball, gasping with surprise, mumbled, " Yes, surely ! "
" Then, Sir, it is yours," said the collector, gravely. In gratitude
Mr. Ball could do no less than stop singing his famous song,
which was doubtless what his honorable and doughty chief ex-

336

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

pected. Cerberus was sopped. This anecdote would be incom-
plete unless we told tliat certain underlings attached to the cus-
tom-house, struck with a new light, began forthwith to chant the
obnoxious stanzas. Unluckily they had mistaken the game, for
the fact reaching the ears of the collector, one of them, taught
in the act, was instantly, though quietly, dismissed from the ser-
vice. It was a pretty illustration of the fable of " The Man,
the Spaniel, and the Ass,"

Caricature.

There are so many serious matters — murders, suicides, larce-
nies, grand and petty burglaries, assaults, fires, and the dismal-
like in these " Annals," that we are glad, and so too may the
reader be, to have an opportunity such as tliis of introducing a
facetious subject, which once delighted the San Franciscans.
We, therefore, give an illustration of the caricature above al-
luded to, and the song itself : —

REMOVAL OF THE CUSTOM-HOUSE TREASURE. 337

" Come, listen a minute, a song I'll sing,
"Which I rather calculate will bring
Much glory, and ail that sort of thing.
On the head of our brave Collector King.

Ri tu di nu, Ri tu di nu,

Ri tu di nil di. na.

" Our well-beloved President
This famous politician sent,
Though I guess we could our money have spent
Without aid from the general government.
Ri tu di nu, ^c.

" In process of time this hero bold
Had collected lots of silver and gold,
Which he stuck away in a spacious hole,
Except what little his officers stole.
Ri tu di nu, d^c.

" But there came a terrible fire one night,
Which put his place in an awful plight,
And 'twould have been a heart-rending sight.
If the money had not been all right.
Ri tu di nu, ^c.

" Then he put his officers on the ground,
And told 'em the specie vault to surround.
And if any ' Sydney Cove' came round.
To pick up a cudgel and knock him down.
Ri tu di nu, i^c.

" But the money had to be moved away,
So he summoned his fighting men one day.
And fixed 'em all in marching array,
Like a lot of mules hitched on to a dray.
Ri tu di nu, <^c.

" Then he mounted a brick and made a speech,
And unto them this way did preach, —
' Oh, feller-sogers, I beseech
You to keep this cash from the people's reach.
Ri tu di nu, ^c.

" ' For,' said he, ' 'tis well convinced I am,
That the people's honesty's all a sham,

338 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

And that no one here is worth a d— n,
But the officers of Uncle Sam.'
Hi in di nu. d^c.

" Then he drew his revolver, and told 'em to start,
But be sure to keep their eyes on the cart,
And not to be at all faint of heart,
But to tread right up, and try to look smart.
Ri tu di nu, <^c.

" Then each man grasped his sword and gun,
The babies squalled and the women run,
And all agreed that the King was one
Of the greatest warriors under the sun.

^t tu di nu, Ri tu di nu,

Ri tu di nu di na^

They were a wild, perverse race, the San Franciscans in those
days, taking much delight in whatever mortified the " city
fathers." They are immoderately fond of fun and devilment
still ; and any thing of a peculiar spicy nature, — from a simple
fall in the mud, or the kissing of a pretty girl, up to the five
thousand dollar bribe of a senator, or a municipal papa, or grand-
papa being caught lurking about the premises of a jealous mar-
ried man, flies hke lightning, or their own great fires over the
whole city. The people live so much together in hotels and
boarding-houses, they meet so frequently for talk and drink (m
vino Veritas) at bars and billiard- rooms, that every piece of scan-
dal or matter of public interest is sure to ooze out and be dis-
cussed in all its bearings. A dozen daily papers by hint, inu-
endo, broad allusion, and description, considerably assist the
promulgation and spreading of idle tales. Hence, they often as-
sumed an importance which other communities may think they
scarcely deserve. The year of which we write, 1851, had a full
share of such local and temporary faceticB, some of which may
appear worthy of record, if it were only to illustrate the times.
The affairs of the aldermen's salaries and the curious medal busi-
ness were both prolific subjects for jesting and outrageous merri-
ment. Dr. D. G. Kobinson, a proprietor of the Dramatic Mu-
seum, gained considerable popularity by a series of doggerel,
" random rhymes " which he gave on his own stage, in which al-

INCENDIARIES AND OTHER CRIMINALS. 339

most every municipal man of mark was hit off, and sometimes
pretty hardly too. So highly were these verses relished, and so
much favor did the author gain thereby with the people, that
Dr. Robinson was triumphantly returned as alderman to fill a
vacancy which had occurred in the first board. He was after-
wards seriously named as likely to be the most popular candidate
for the mayoralty in 1852. Such rewards do the generous citi-
zens bestow upon those who amuse them. Dr. Robinson's rhymes
were subsequently collected into a small printed pamphlet,
which will no doubt possess much interest to such as still relish
the gossip and scandal of the day. It would be out of place to
give here any characteristic quotations from the work. People
look back already with surprise to the favorable notoriety which
these songs gained for their author, and more especially to the
elevated position to which they were the means of raising him.
We have narrated the absurd afiair of the removal of the trea-
sure, and given the relative song, only because they were reck-
oned rather important events of the time, and concerning which
there was much public merriment for a long period afterwards.
The parties interested can now well afford to laugh heartily at
the whole business. These things, also, form one illustration of
the state of society and " life " in San Francisco at the date of
their occurrence.

June 3d. — For some time back the attempts of incendiaries
to fire the city seem to be increasing. Cases of this nature are
occurring daily, where the suspicious circumstances are evident,
but where unfortunately the really guilty party cannot be de-
tected. It is extremely difficult to discover criminals in the very
act of committing arson. Incendiaries do their deeds only in
dark and secret corners, and if interrupted, they have always
ready a dozen trifling excuses for their appearance and behavior.
The train and the slow match can be laid almost any where un-
observed, while the " foul fiend " quietly steals away in safety.
The inhabitants had got nervously sensitive to the slightest alarm
of fire, and were greatly enraged against the presumed incendia-
ries. This day one Benjamin Lewis underwent a primary exam-
ination on the charge of arson. As the evidence was being
taken, the Recorder's Court began to fill, and much excitement

340 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

to spread among the people. At this time, a cry of "/re .'" was
raised, and great confusion took place in the court-room, people
rushing desperately out and in to learn particulars. This was a
false alarm. It was believed to be only a ruse to enable the
prisoner's friends to rescue him from the hands of justice. The
latter was therefore removed for safety to another place. Mean-
while some three or four thousand persons had collected outside
of the building, who began to get furious, continually uttering
loud cries of " Lynch the villain ! Hang the fire-raising ivretch !
Bring him out — no mercy — no law delays ! Hang him — hang
him ! " Colonel Stevenson harangued the crowd in strong lan-
sruaffe, encourasring the violent feelings that had been excited
against the prisoner. Mayor Brenham endeavored to calm the
enraged multitude. Loud calls were at length made for " Bran-
nan," to which that gentleman quickly responded, and advised
that the prisoner should be given in charge to the " volunteer
police," which had been recently formed. A motion to this
effect was put and unanimously carried. But when the prisoner
was looked for, it was found that the regular police had mean-
while carried him out of the way — nobody knew, or would tell
where. Perforce the crowd was obliged to be satisfied, and late
in the afternoon it gradually dispersed.

This is one instance of the scenes of popular excitement
which were now of frequent occurrence in the city. Kepeated
losses by fire, and the terrible array of unpunished, undetected,
triumphant crime, were turning the inhabitants absolutely savage
against the supposed criminals. Matters were coming fast to a
head, which was immediately to ripen into the " Vigilance Com-
mittee." All these popular " demonstrations" were ineffectual
in deterring the " Sydney coves," and those of a like character,
from the commission of the most reckless, wanton, and flagrant
outrages. Incendiary attempts were now remarked almost daily.
Not only the desire for plunder, but malice against individuals,
and an unnatural lust for general destruction, seemed to inspire
the villains.

In regard to the particular case of Lewis, it may be men-
tioned that the grand jury found a true bill against him for
arson. Twice shortly afterwards was he brought before the Dis-

MOUNTAIN LAKE WATER COMPANY. 341

trict Criminal Court for trial, and on each occasion his counsel
found a " flaw" in the indictment, which quashed the proceed-
ings. These delays and defects in the law were working the suf-
fering people up to madness. This is only one case, but it may
be taken as a fair specimen of the general inefficiency of the ju-
dicial officers and tribunals in punishing crime. The grand juries
were continually making formal complaints that their present-
ments were disregarded, and that criminals were somehow never
convicted and punished, while generally their trials were so long
delayed that the prisoners either escaped from confinement, or
the essential witnesses in the case had gone nobody knew whither ;
and so the prosecutions failed. San Francisco was truly in a
desperate condition at this period of its history. Though few
arrests were made in proj)ortion to the number of offences actually
committed, yet it may be mentioned, that, to take one instance,
on Monday morning, the 9th June of this year, there were thirty-
six cases before the Recorder's Criminal Court from one district
alone (the second), out of the eight composing the city. " Of
the whole," we quote from a journal of the time, " six were for
drunkenness, six for fighting, six for larceny, three for stabbing,
one for burglary, four for fast riding, four for assaulting officers,
three for keeping disorderly houses, one for an attempt at rob-
bery," &c. Yet the previous day, Sunday, on which these of-
fences had been committed, had been remarked by the press as
having been unusually quiet and decently observed — without any
noise or crime worth noticing.

Of this date an ordinance was passed by the council
boards, and approved of by the mayor, granting to Mr. Arzo
D. Merrifield and his assigns, the privilege of introducing
fresh water by pipes into the city. It had happened at the
various fires that the numerous public water reservoirs were
either wholly or partially empty ; and great difficulty Avas at
all times experienced in filling them. This reason, as well
as the desire to have an abundant supply of pure, fresh water
for household purposes, had long led parties to consider the
best means of bringing it into the city by pipes from a dis-
tance. Various schemes were talked of among the public, and
discussed in the journals. The plan of Mr. Merrifield to bring

342 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

water from a small lagoon, called the " Mountain Lake," situ-
ated about four miles west of the plaza, and which was well sup-
plied hy springs, was at length approved of by the common
council, and under the ordinance noticed the projector became
entitled to certain privileges for the term of twenty-five years,
upon condition of his plans being carried into effect. Mr. Merri-
field, his associates and assigns, were authorized to break open
the streets, and lay down water-pipes in the same, upon properly
filling up and replacing the openings. The quantity of water to
be provided in a general reservoir, and the amount of discharge
by pipes, were both fixed ; while provision was made for the
amount of rates to be paid by the citizens using the water, which
rates Avere to be adjusted by a board of commissioners to be
chosen annually by the common council. At the end of twenty-
five years, from and after the 1st day of January, 1853, the en-
tire water-works were to be deeded to the city, in consideration
of the privileges and benefits that might accrue to the projector
and his assigns and associates during the said term of years.
The corporate authorities were also to be entitled to the gratuitous
use of the water for the purpose of extinguishing fires, and for
hospital and other purposes. In terms of this act, Mr. Merrifield
granted a bond for fifty thousand dollars that the works should
be completed on or before the 1st of January, 1853.

The gentleman named having conveyed his privileges to a
joint-stock company, called the " Mountain Lake Water Com-
pany," another ordinance was, of date 14th of July, 1852, passed
and approved of, Avhereby the former one was amended to the
following efiect, viz. : That the new company should only be en-
titled to the j^rivileges granted by the first ordinance for the term
of twenty years : — that the board of commissioners to fix the
rates payable by those who used the water should be chosen,
three by the common council, and two by the Mountain Lake
Water Company, under the regulations specified in the ordi-
nance : — that the term within which the works should be com-
pleted should be extended to the 1st of January, 1854, provided
the Water Company should expend fifty thousand dollars on the
works within six months of the date of the ordinance, and at
least a similar sum every six months thereafter until the said last

HANGING OF JENKINS.

343

mentioned date : — that the i:)rivileges granted to the said Water
Company should be exclusive for the term of five years after 1st
of January, 1853 ; — and, lastly, that the said ordinance should
expire at such time after the 1st day of January, 1855, as the
said Water Company should refuse, or be unable, to supply the
city, at such elevation as the common council should fix, '' one
million of gallons of pure and wholesome fresh water during every
tv;enty-four hours."

Hanging of Jenkins on the Plaza.

June 11th. — The "Vigilance Committee" is at last formed,
and in good working order. They hanged at two o'clock this
morning upon the plaza one Jenkins, for stealing a safe. For
the particulars of the trial and execution, we refer the reader to
a subsequent chapter, where also will 1)0 f)und an account of the
other doinirs of tliis celebrated association.

CHAPTER XVII.
1851.

The sixth great fire.— Destruction of old buildings. — Execution by the Vigilance Committee of
Stuart, Whittalier and McKenzie. — County and city elections. — The Vigilance Committee sus-
pend operations. — Wells & Co. suspend payment. — Opening of the Jenny Lind Theatre. — The
American Theatre opened. — Shipping in San Francisco Bay. — Ball of the Monumental Fire
Company. — Indian disturbances and volunteer military companies. — Severe storm.

June 22d. — The sixth great fire. It began a few minutes before
eleven o'clock in the morning, in a frame house situated on the
north side of Pacific street, close to Powell street. The high
winds which usually set in about this hour from the ocean during
the summer season, speedily fanned the flames, and drove them
south and east. All day they spread from street to street,
consuming one building-square after another. The water reser-
voirs happened to be nearly empty, and even where the firemen
had water enough for the engines, their exertions were of little
use in stopping the conflagration. Nor was it much better with
the hook and ladder companies, whose useful operations were
thwarted by the owners of the property they were seeking to pull
down for the common good. Subsequent inquiries seemed to
show that the fire must have been raised by incendiaries, while
several attempts were detected during the day to kindle various
distant quarters of the town, yet untouched by the flames. The
fire extended from Powell nearly to Sansome street, and from
Clay street to Broadway. Within these limits ten entire squares
were destroyed, and large parts of six others. The total damage
was estimated at three millions of dollars. Happily the chief
business portion of the town escaped, and which had suffered so
severely six or seven weeks before. In the fire of the 4th May,
every newspaper establishment in the city, except that of the
" Alta California," was totally destroyed. In the fire of the 22d

SIXTH GREAT FIRE. 345

instant, all escaped, except that of the journal named. These
conflagrations made no distinctions of j^ersons or properties ; but
with a wild justice, sooner or later, reduced all to the same level.
The proprietors of the AUa now lost their building, presses,
types, paper and office furniture, just as their brethren of the
broad sheet were ruined before. The City Hall, located at the
corner of Kearny and Pacific streets, which had been originally
erected at an immense expense as a hotel, and was purchased
more than a year before by the corporation for one hundred and
fifty thousand dollars, and improved at a heavy cost, was totally
consumed, although the principal office records were saved. Mr.
Thomas Maguire, the proprietor of the " Jenny Lind Theatre,"
on the plaza, which was a most valuable building, now lost all
again, — a sixth time, ^y fi^'c, ! But it is needless to particularize
losses, where every citizen may be said to have been burned out
several times, and to have again and again lost Ms all. With a
sigh or a laugh, according to the temperament of the sufierer, he
just began once more to raise his house, stock it with new goods,
and arrange his future plans. The indefatigable spider was at
work again.

JMany of the buildings erected since these last fires show a
wonderful improvement in strength and grandeur. When the
work was to be done it was now well done ; and it is believed
that if any buildings can possibly be vndi^Q fire proof in the most
trying circumstances, many have now been made so in San Fran-
cisco. Solid brick walls, two and three feet in thickness, double
shutters and doors of malleable iron, with a space two feet wide
between them, and huge tanks of water, that could flood the
whole building from roof to cellar, seem to defy the ravages of
the fiercest future conflagration. Of that substantial character
are many of the banking establishments, the principal stores and
merchants' offices, and the most important houses in the city.
This improved style of building has chiefly been rendered neces-
sary by the great conflagrations we have had occasion to notice.
Of the difierent companies formed for extinguishing fires we
treat in a subsequent chapter. It is believed that they form the
most complete and efficient organization of their kind in the
world.

346

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

The six great fires successively destroyed nearly all the old
buildins-s and land-marks of Yerba Buena. We extract the fol-
lowing pleasantly written lamentation on this subject from the
" Alta California " of 21st September, 1851 :— " The fires of May
and June of the present year, swept away nearly all the reUcs of
the olden time in the heart of the city. The old City Hotel

Olfl City Hotel.

[corner of Kearny and Clay streets], so wtII known and remem-
bered by old Californians, after standing unscathed through three
fatal fires, fell at the fourth. How many memories cling around
that old building ! It was the first hotel started in San Fran-
cisco, then the village of Yerba Buena, in the year 1846. When
the mines were first discovered, and San Francisco was literally
overflowing with gold, it was the great gaming head-quarters.
Thousands and thousands of dollars were there staked on the
turn of a single card, and scenes such as never were before, and
never again will be witnessed, were exhibited in that old building
during the years 1848 and 1849. In the spring of '49, the
building was leased out at sixteen thousand dollars per annum,
cut up into small stores and rooms, and underleased at an enor-

OLD BUILDINGS DESTROYED.

347

mous profit. Newer and handsomer buildings were erected and
opened as hotels, and the old ' City ' became neglected, deserted,
forgotten : then it burned down, and this relic of the olden time
of San Francisco was among the things that were. Then the
old adobe custom-house that had been first built for that purpose,
and then used as a guard-house and military ofiice by the Amer-

Eesidence of Samuel Brannan, Esq., in 1847.

icans, and then afterwards as tlie American custom-house, was
also burned. The wooden building directly back of it, with the
portico, was also one of the old buildings — erected and occupied
by Samuel Brannan, Esq. in 1847. [In this house were exhibited
the first specimens of gold brought from the^3?aceres.] This also
was burned, and all that remains of 1847, in the vicinity of the
plaza, is the old adobe on Dupont street. This building, in the
latter part of '47 and '48 was occupied by Robert A. Parker as
a ]ar2;e tradino; establishment. This has stood through all the
fires, and it is hoped that it may remain for years as a relic of the
past." That hope was vain. In the following year the adobe on
Dupont street was pulled down to make way for finer houses on
its site. So has it been with all the relics of six or eight years'
standing. What the fires left, the progress of improvement
swept from the ground.

348 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

July 11th. — Trial and execution of James Stuart.

August 24th. — Recapture from the legal authorities of
Whittaker and McKenzie, and their execution by the " Vigi-
lance Committee,"

September 3d. — Annual election for the County of San
Francisco. The following were the officials chosen : —

Senate.

Frank Soiile, Jacob R. Snyder.

Assembly.

B. Orrick, A. C. Peachy, A. J. Ellis, H. Wohler,

G. W. Tenbroeck, R. N. Wood. Isaac N. Thorne.

Judge of the Superior Court. County Judge.

John Satterlee. Alexander Campbell.

Sheriff. County Clerk.

John C. Hayes. James E. Wainwright.

County Recorder. District Attorney.

Thomas B. Russum. H. H. Byrne.

County Treasurer. County Surveyor.

Joseph Shannon. C. Humphries.

Coroner. County Assessor.

Nathaniel Gray. Henry Vandeveer.

Harlor Master. — George Simpton.

The new city charter had provided that the first general
election for municipal officers should be held on the fourth Monday
of April, 1851, and " thereafter annually at the general election
for State officers." Under this section of the charter it was un-
derstood by some that the second city election should take place
in September of the year named, when the usual annual election
of State officers occurred. Another construction was put upon
the section in question by the parties already in office and by a
large number of the inhabitants, to the effect that the second
election under the charter could only take place in September,
1852. Thus one party would give the existing common council
and municipal officers only half a year in power, while another
party, including the present incumbents, claimed a year and a
half.

A CONTESTED ELECTION. 349

So dignified, or so satisfied with the legal strength of theii-
position, were the existing city ofiicers, that they took no steps to
order a new election in September, 1851. Their opponents,
however, relying on their own interpretation of the words of the
charter, proceeded to act without them, and, unopposed in any
way, elected the whole parties on their ticket. The general
public took little interest in the matter, and most people seemed
to believe that the new election would end in nothing. So little
did the citizens concern themselves, that some of those newly
elected, polled but a very few votes. When the election was fin-
ished the new ofiicers made a demand upon the old ones for a
surrender of the public books and documents. This being
refused, the new mayor elect, Stephen R. Harris, immediately
raised the necessary legal action against the old mayor, C. J.
Brenham, for a declaration of his own rights and the ejection of
the latter from office. In the district court a judgment was
given to the effect that the present incumbents should hold office
till April, 1852, and that then those elected in September, 1851,
should enter upon and remain in office for one year. The result
of this decision would have been that six months would always
intervene between the election and the entering upon office of
the municipal authorities. This decision was unsatisfactory to
most people. Mr. Harris next carried the case into the supreme
court, where a majority of the judges (24th December), after
able arguments were heard from the parties, reversed the judg-
ment of the court below, and found Mr. Harris entitled to enter
upon office as in September, 1851. Mr. Brenham promptly ac-
knowledged the weakness of his position, and at once yielded to
his legal successor. Party feeling prevented the other city officers
from surrendering their seats so readily. Those already in power
consisted of men of both of the great political j)arties — whig and
democratic ; and had been originally selected chiefly from among
the independent candidates, as men who would earnestly work
for the common good and the purification of the city from official
corruption and wide-spread crime. On the other hand, those
newly elected were altogether of the democratic party. The old
council offered to resign, if the new one would do the same ;
when both could appeal a second time to the people. But the

350 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

latter council refused to do this. Meanwhile, the legal courts
had adjourned, and it would have cost much time and expense to
drive out the old council from the places which they persisted in
retaining ; and their year of office would probably expire before
this could be managed. In the end, however, the old council
thouo-ht it best for their own honor and the interests of the city,
to quietly retire from the unseemly contest, and make way for
their unexpected successors. The names and offices of the latter
were as follows : —

Mat/or. — Stephen R. Harris. Recorder — George TV. Baker.

Marshal. — David W. Thompson. Street Commissioner. — Theodore Payne.
Comptroller. — Jas. W. Stillman. Treasurer. — Smyth Clarke.
Tax Collector.— T). S. Linell. City Attorneij.—Ghtxs. M. Delaney.

Recorder''s Clerk. — Thomas W. Harper.
City Assessors. — James C. Callaghan, David Hoag, Arthur Matthews.

Aldermen,
E. L. Morgan, Wm. G. Wood, Jos. H. Blood, John Cotter,

Caleb Hyatt, James Grant, N. S. Pettit, Wm. IMoore.

Assistant Aldermen.

Henry Meiggs, Jos. Galloway, W. H. Crowell, N. Holland,

D. W. Lockwood, James Graves, J. C. Piercy, John W. Kessling.

September 16th. — The " Vigilance Committee" agreed to
suspend indefinitely farther operations regarding crime and crim-
inals in the city. The old extensive chambers in Battery street
were relinquished, and new rooms, " ojien at all times, day and
night, to the members," were taken in Middleton and Smiley's
buildings, corner of Sansome and Sacramento streets. During
the three preceding months this association had been indefatiga-
ble in collecting evidence and bringing the guilty to justice. It
had been formed not to supersede the legal authorities, but to
strengthen them when weak ; not to oppose the law, but to sanc-
tion and confirm it. The members were mostly respectable citi-
zens, who had, and could have, only one object in view — the
general good of the community. They exercised an unceasing
vigilance over the hidden movements of the susj^ected and crim-
inal population of the place, and unweariedly traced crime to its
source, where they sought to stop it. They had hanged four
men without observing ordinary legal forms, but the persons were

THE VIGILANCE COMMITTEE. 351

fairly tried and found guilty, while three, at least, of the number,
confessed to the most monstrous crimes, and admitted death to be
only a due i>unishment. At this small cost of bloodshed, the
"Vigilance Committee" freed the city and country of many
reckless villains, who had been long a terror to society. When
these had disappeared, outrages against person and property al-
most disappeared too, or were confined to i^etty cases. The legal
and municipal authorities now acquired, what previously they
lacked, sufficient power to master the remaining ci'iminals ; and
the committee, having no longer a reason for continued action,
gladly relinquished the powers they had formerly exercised.
Grand juries, instead of offering presentments against them, only
j)raised in the usual reports their useful exertions, while, like all
good citizens, they lamented their necessity. Judges occasionally
took offence at the terms of such reports, and sought to have
them modified; but the grand juries were firm. Judge Levi
Parsons applied to the Supreme Court to have certain obnoxious
sentences in one of tliese reports struck out ; but his petition was
refused. People felt that there was much truth in the repeated
declarations of the grand juries, and they hailed with delight
their expressions of implied confidence in the Vigilance Commit-
tee. The weak, inefiicient, and sometimes corrupt courts of
law were denounced as strongly by the juries as by that associa-
tion itself In one report the grand jury said : — " The facilities
with which the most notorious culprits are enabled to obtain
bail, which, if not entirely worthless, is rarely enforced when for^
feited, and the numerous cases in which by the potent influence
of money, and the ingenious and unscrupulous appliance of legal
technicalities, the most abandoned criminals have been enabled
to escape a deserved punishment, meets with their unqualified
disapprobation."

But the worst days were over, and comj)arative peace was re-
stored to society. Therefore the Vigilance Committee ceased to
act. The members, however, did not dissolve the association, but
only appointed a special or executive committee of forty-five to
exercise a general watchfulness, and to summon together the
whole body when occasion should require. This was shortly after-
wards done in one or two instances, when instead of being oppos-

352 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

ed to the authorities, the members now firmly supported them by
active personal aid against commotions and threatened outrages
amono- the populace. They had originally organized themselves
to protect the city from arson, murder and rapine, when perpe-
trated as part of a general system of violence and plunder by
hardened criminals. In ordinary crimes, and when these stood
alone, and did not necessarily lead to general destruction, the
Vio'ilance Committee did not interfere farther than as good citi-
zens and to merely aid the ordinary officials whose duty it was to
attend to all cases of crime. When, therefore, some six months
later, a body of two thousand excited people sought to " lynch "
the captain and mate of the ship Challenge for cruelty to the
crew during the passage from New York to San Francisco, the
Vigilance Committee, instead of taking the side of the enraged
multitude, firmly supported the legal authorities. On many
occasions, both before and after this time, the committee were of
great service to the authorities. At their own cost, they collected
evidence, apprehended criminals and delivered them into the hands
of legal justice. When the city offered a reward of $2500 to
any jaerson who would give information which might lead to the
apprehension and conviction of an incendiary, the committee
offered a reward of $5000 for the same services. The members
gave large contributions to hasten the completion of the public
jail ; and, in many ways, by money, counsel and moral aid, and
active personal assistance, sought earnestly to raise the character
of the judicial tribunals and strengthen their action. There could
not be a greater calumny uttered against high-minded men than
to represent, as was frequently done in other countries, and in the
Atlantic States, the members of the Vigilance Committee as a
lawless mob, who made passion their sole guide and their own
absolute will the law of the land. Necessity formed the com-
mittee, and gave it both irresistible moi'al and physical force. One
might as well blame a drowning wretch for clin^-ino: to a sinkins;
brother, or to a straw, as say that the inhabitants of San Fran-
cisco did wrong — some in joining the association, and others in
not resisting but applauding its proceedings. People out of Cal-
ifornia could know little at best of the peculiar state of society
existing there ; and such as condemned the action of the Vigilance

NEW JENNY LIND THEATRE. 353

Committee positively either knew nothing on the subject, or they
outraged the plainest principles of self-preservation. We all
defend the man who, with his own hand, violently and unscrupu-
lously slays the midnight robber and assassin, because he would
otherwise lose his own life and property, and where the time and
place make it ridiculous to call for legal protection. So also
should we defend the community that acts in a similar manner
under analogous circumstances. Their will and power form new
ex tempore laws, and if the motives be good and the result good,
it is not very material what the means are. This subject is treat-
ed at greater length in the chapter on the Vigilance Committee,
and to it the reader is referred.

October 3d. — " Wells & Co." bankers, suspended payment.
This and the bankruptcy of H. M. Naglee already noticed, are
the only instances of failure among that class of the citizens of
San Francisco. When the place and the speculative spirit of
the people are borne in mind, it is high testimony to the general
stability of the banking interest, that only two of their estab-
lishments have become bankrupt.

October 4th. — Opening of the new Jenny Lind Theatre on
the Plaza. This was a large and handsome house. The interior
was fitted up with exquisite taste ; and altogether in size, beauty
and comfort, it rivalled the most noted theatres in the Atlantic
States. It could seat comfortably upwards of two thousand per-
sons. The opening night presented a brilliant display of beauty
and fashion, and every part of the immense building was crowded
to excess. A poetical address was delivered on the occasion by
Mrs. E. Woodward. A new era in theatricals was now begun
in San Francisco ; and since that period the city has never wanted
one or two first class theatres and excellent stock companies,
among which '*' stars " of the first magnitude annually make their
appearance. Before this date there had been various dramatic
companies in San Francisco, but not before had there been so
magnificent a stage for their performances. The " Jenny Lind "
did not long remain a theatre. The following year it was pur-
chased by the town for a City Hall for the enormous sum of two
hundred thousand dollars. The external stone walls were allowed

354

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

to stand, but the whole interior was removed and fitted up anew
for the special purposes to which it was meant to be applied.

Jenny Liud Theatre.

October 20th. — The "American" theatre opened. This
was a large brick and wooden house in Sansome street, between
California and Sacramento streets. It could contain nearly two
thousand persons, and was very elegantly furnished inside. Mrs.
Stark gave the opening address. The walls sank nearly two
inches on the opening night, when the "house" was densely
crowded. The site formed a portion of the bay, and the sand
which made the artificial foundation had been deposited upon a
bed of soft yielding mud. Considerable fears were entertained
in such circumstances for the safety of the structure. Happily
the sinking of the Avails was regular, and after the first night no
material change was perceptible.

October 31st. — To enable the distant reader to form an
idea of the crowded state of the harbor, and which it may be

INDIAN DISTURBANCES. 355

mentioned was at all times about as well filled, we give the fol-
lowing accurate list of the number of vessels lying there at this
date, viz : —

Ships. Barques. Brigs. Schooners. Ocean Steamers. Total.

American 42 64 6?' 50 9 232

British 5 23 5 3 36

French 9 1 1 11

Chilian 1 2 1 one sloop & one galliot C

Bremen 1 4 4 1 10

Austrian 1 ship ; Swedish. 3 brigs,. 4

German 1 barque ; Itahan, 1 brig ; Dutch, 2 barques. 4

Storeships, 148

Total number of vessels 451

The store-ships had originally belonged to all nations, though
chiefly to America. In 1848 and 1849, most of the vessels that
then arrived in the bay were deserted by their crews, while both
in these years and in 1850, many old and unseaworthy vessels
had been hurriedly pressed into the vast emigration service to Cal-
ifornia. A considerable number of all these vessels were not
worth the expense of manning and removing, and so they were
left to be used as stores and lodo;ino;-houses in the suddenlv
thronged town, or to rot and sink, dismantled and forsaken. We
have had occasion at various places to mention that several of
these ships are now lying on dry land, in the very centre of the
city.

November 6th. — A grand ball was given in the evening of
this day at the Parker House, by the Monumental Fire Company.
It was one of the finest affairs of the kind held in the city. Up-
wards of five hundred ladies and gentlemen were present. Such
balls were becoming too numerous to be all chronicled, while
amidst the general brilliancy it is difficult to select any one as
a specimen to show forth the times.

December. — The southern portion of the State, having been
recently in great danger from attacks of the confederated Indian
tribes, applied for aid to Gen. Hitchcock, commanding U. S.
forces in California. He accordingly sent as many of his troops
as could be spared, and authorized the raising of two companies
of mounted volunteers. Great excitement, in consequence of
this pennission and the previous alarming news, existed in the

356 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

city, and numbers hastened to enroll themselves in the proposed
companies. To the disappointment of many applicants, a selec-
tion only could be received. The two companies were placed
under the respective commands of Col. John W. Geary and Capt.
Daniel Aldrich, while Col. J. C. Hayes was appointed to the com-
mand in chief. Later intelligence from the south, to the effect
that the Indian difficulties were being arranged, rendered it un-
necessary for the volunteers to proceed thither.

December 21st. — This day was remarkable for an unusually
severe storm of wind and rain, which continued during the night,
and lasted several days without abatement. The tide was several
feet higher than ordinary, and the swell from the bay rolled in so
heavily as to wash away the sand from many of the newly-piled
water lots. Several vessels dragged from their moorings and
came in collision with others. Store-ships, that had long been
imbedded in the sand, were set afloat and drifted to other quar-
ters. The water at Jackson street rose so high as to cross Mont-
gomery street, causing, at their junction, a lake of no inconsid-
erable dimensions. The cellars in the lower part of the city were
inundated.

CHAPTER XVIII.
1851.

Immigration diminished. — Females comparatively few. — Great city improvements. — Productions of
tlie country, game, &c., in the markets. — Character of the community changing for the better. — Tlie
circulating medium. — Extravagance in living, dre-ss, &c. — Personal rencontres and other outrages
common.— Titles to real estate uncertain. — Legal decisions. — Depreciated value of merchandise. —
Amusements, dissipation and recreation. — The foreign population. — Great crimes less frequent —
The finances of the city.

The arrivals by sea at San Francisco were not so numerous in
1851 as during the preceding year. The tide of immigration was
slackening, only to roll in its much greater numbers the following
season. During 1851, upwards of 27,000 persons arrived by
sea. Of these rather more than one-half came by steamers from
the ports on or near the Isthmus, The ordinary population of
the city was increasing, though more slowly than before. At the
close of this year the total number probably exceeded thirty
thousand. Females were very few in proportion to the whole
number of inhabitants, although they were beginning to increase
more rapidly. A very large proportion of the female population
continued to be of loose character. The Chinese now began to
arrive in considerable bands, and occasionally a few of their fe-
males. Great numbers of French and Germans, of both sexes,
^.s well as other foreigners, made their appearance. The immi-
grants generally were of the mining and agricultural classes, al-
though a fair number of them ultimately settled in San Francisco.
An extensive immigration continued among the various districts
and towns of the country, and the population of all was constant-
ly changing. Fewer fortunate miners now paid visits to the city
for the sake of mere recreation, since the rising towns of the
interior, particularly Sacramento and Stockton, the capitals of the
northern and southern mines respectively, offered all the attrac-
tions of dissipation closer at hand. Yet in one way or another,

358

ANNALS OF SAN FEANCISCO.

at least one half of the entire population of the State passed
throu"'h, or visited San Francisco. The ocean steamers carried
away more people from the port than they brought. There was
the usual large land immigration into the State, and, on the
whole, the general population of the country was considerably
increased.

East side of Portsmouth Square, Spring of 1850.

In San Francisco material improvements were taking place.
At Clark's Point, on the northern extremity of the city, huge pre-
cipitous rocks were quarried and removed, and the solid hill deeply
excavated, whereby much new and valuable space was gained for
building operations. New streets were graded, planked and built
upon, and new and finer houses every where erected. In the
southern districts, the " steam-paddy " had been set to work, and
was rapidly cutting away the numerous sand hills that lay be-
tween the plaza and " Happy VaUey." The rubbish was con-
veyed by temporary rails along the streets, and emptied into the
bay at those parts where already roads were laid out and houses

CITY IMPKOVEMENTS. 359

built on piles. Sansome and Battery, with the intersecting
streets to a considerable distance, were gradually filled up, and
firm foundations given for the substantial brick and stone houses
that were besrinning to be erected there. The town continued to
move eastward, and new streets were formed upon piles farther
out into the bay, across which the piers and wharves were shoot-
ing like the first slender lines of ice before the sheet of water
hardens into a solid mass. Closer and thicker the lines ran, as
house after house was reared on innumerable piles, while the
steam-paddy and railway wagons, and horse-carts without num-
ber, were incessantly bearing hills of sand piecemeal to fill up the
hollows, and drive the sea far away from the original beach.
Where once ships of a thousand tons floated there now rose great
tenements of brick and mortar securely founded in the solid
earth. Portions of the loose sand were insensibly washed oif by
the tides from the first places where it was deposited, and the
bay was slowly becoming shallower to a considerable distance
from shore. As the wharves were pushed farther out, the ship-
ping found less convenient anchorage, and were exposed to occa-
sional strong tides and gales. The character of the port was
perhaps changing somewhat for the worse, although the necessi-
ties of the town so far urgently required an extension across the
bay.

The fires of 1850 and 1851, while they destroyed much valu-
able property, led in the end to a very superior kind of building,
and may thus be said to have done some permanent good. They
have stamped a wonderfully grand character upon the architec-
ture of the place. What at first were called and believed to be
fire-proof houses were becoming numerous, when successive con-
flagrations came and removed them all. Other houses were built
of a still more substantial kind, and these were destroyed by fire
in turn. At last, some buildings were erected that surely were
proof against the most intense heat and flame ; and upon their
models all the later structures of pretension have been formed.
While in certain respects these buildings assume the proportions
and grandeur of palaces, in others they appear heavy and gloomy
like the veriest prisons. The walls are enormously thick, and the
windows deeply sunk in them, showing often at first sight only

360 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

narrow, dark cavities. When the ponderous wrought iron shutters
and doors are closed on the outside the resemblance to a jail is com-
plete. It is believed that no fire from without can seriously affect
such buildings, although they may be subject to internal confla-
gration. While improved houses were rising in the centre and
business portion of the town, superior buildings of frame were re-
placing in the outskirts and suburbs the old habitations, or such
as were destroyed by fire. The new plank road to the mission
had opened up a large and valuable tract of building ground, and
neat and substantial wooden houses were being erected along the

whole way.

In the vicinity of the town, wherever a tiny fertilizing stream
of water ran among the sand hills, at the mission and the presidio,
numerous flower and kitchen gardens and small farms were laid
out, which yielded large supplies of the more necessary or prized
vegetables. In 1849, the announcement of a real cabbage at
dinner would have set half the population frantic with strangely
stirred appetites ; now, the many cultivated spots named, daily
furnished numerous loaded carts of all kinds of fresh vegetables
to the city markets. Potatoes were no longer a rarity ; turnips
could be had for money — and at a moderate price, too. The
markets made pleasant morning sights. Besides a profusion of
vegetables and fruits, they were largely supplied with noble fish
and game of all descriptions from the ocean, the bay and the in-
terior. Salmon of huge dimensions, and vast quantities of like
delicious fish, whole cart loads of geese, ducks, quails, and other
wild fowl, innumerable quarters of bear, elk, antelope, deer, and
smaller game, loaded the stalls of the dealers. Mutton was per-
haps not so plentiful, but excellent beef was in abundance.
Times had changed with San Francisco. The hardships and
semi-starvation of 1849 were forgotten in these ample supplies
of exquisite food. The epicure might traverse the globe, and
have no finer living than what this city yielded ; the glutton
would here find both eye and palate satiated. But two years had
sufficed to this astonishinoj change.

The fires that cleared the ground and rendered necessary new
building operations, and the improved style of house structures,
gave constant employment to every body who could and would

CITY IMPROVEMENTS.

361

work. Wages therefore continued high, and the poorest of the
laboring classes were enjoying the incomes of merchants and pro-
fessional men of other countries. The general improvements in
the aspect of the town and social character of the people, noticed

New World Market, corner of Commercial and LeidesdorfF streets.

in the review of 1850, were still going on. New "Expresses"
were hurrying to all points, stage coaches, mails and noble
steamers communicated with the most distant quarters. Ad-
ditional manufactories and stores, additional newspapers, thea-
tres, public institutions, benevolent, useful and agreeable associa-
tions, were being constantly established. Schools and churches
were springing up on all sides. A certain class largely patronized
the last, though it must be admitted that very many, particular-
ly foreigners, never entered them. The old life and bustle con-
tinued, though matters were now systematized, and offered less
show and confusion. In 1849, San Francisco was like a great
ant-hill, when its busy creatures happen to be disturbed, and
when all were visible, hurrying to and fro, out and in, backwards
and forwards, apparently in the most admirable confusion and

362 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO,

cross purposes, as if every one were engaged in some life and
death struggle. In 1851, the city was like the same ant-hill
when the cause of fright had been removed and order restored.
The old tenants were still as busy as ever, but there was method
now in their actions. Some were closely engaged in the interior
— the cells or houses of the place — and made no show. Outside
hnes of other eager workers ran here and there, without jostling
or confusion, all filled with the thought of what they had to do,
and doing it well and quickly. There was no sauntering, no
idleness, no dreaming. All was practical and real ; all energy,
perseverance and success. In business and in pleasure, the San
Franciscans were fast folk ; none were faster in the world. Their
rents, interest on money, doings and profits, were all calculated
monthly. A month with them was considered equal to a year
with other people. In the former short time, men did such
deeds, and saw, felt, thought, suffered and enjoyed, as much as
would have lasted over a twelvemonth in other lands. But then
these were really men — giants rather, the very choice of the cle-
verest, most adventurous and hard-working people of America
and Europe. California was a hot-bed that brought humanity to
a rapid, monstrous maturity, like the mammoth vegetables for
which it is so celebrated.

The city was settling fast into the condition in which it now
is. The characteristics of a Spanish or Mexican town had nearly
all disappeared. The barbarous magnificence of an old Califor-
niau rider was now seldom seen. The jingling, gaudy trappings
of the horse, the clumsy stirrups and leathern aprons, the con-
stant lasso and the reckless rider, had given place to the plain,
useful harness of the American and his more moderate, though
still dashing riding. Superb carriages now thronged the streets,
and handsome omnibuses regularly plied between the plaza and
the mission. People now, instead of being " every thing by turns
and nothing long," more steadily confined themselves to one
proper business. The old stores, where so recently aU things
" from a needle to an anchor " could be obtained, were nearly ex-
tinct ; and separate classes of retail shops and wholesale ware-
houses were now the order of business. Gold dust as a currency
had long given place to coin. Two years before, the buyer

THE CIRCULATING MEDIUM. 363

would carelessly tumble out a heap of " dust " in payment,
while the seller would have his weights and scales ready for it as
a matter of course. A little lump less or more to the quantity
was of no consequence to either party. All that loose, stylish
kind of thing was now changed. Coin was plentiful, and its
fair worth was generally looked for. People found it somewhat
moi-e difficult to accumulate wealth, and were less foolishly lavish
of their means, although they still always spent them most ex-
travagantly. Specimens of nearly all the coinage of the civilized
world were in constant circulation. Approximate values were
bestowed upon the pieces, and if any thing like the mark, they
readily passed current. The English shilling, the American
quarter-dollar, the French franc, the Mexican double-real were
all of the same value ; so likewise were the English crown, the
French five-franc i)iece, and the American or Mexican dollar.
It did not matter although some were twenty-five ^er cent, more
worth than others. Four single francs were quite as good as the
English tive-shilling piece. The smaller silver coins of whatever
denomination and of every country were all alike hits, and passed
for the same value. As for copper money, it was, of course,
never seen. A hit was the lowest denomination of money, and
very little of any thing would it buy. Besides the coins men-
tioned, there were Indian rupees, Dutch and German florins and
guilders, the many coinages of South America, and in fact every
known piece of money that circidated in Europe, and in many
other parts of the world. The deflciency in the American proper
coinage was thus amply made up, especially so far as silver
money was concerned. In gold there was a less variety of foreign
coin, although many European pieces of that metal were in cir-
culation. The fifty dollar gold pieces called " slugs," and the
twenty and ten dollar pieces, issued by the United States Assay
Office, in San Francisco, served all the purposes of a regular
standard coinage. Before, and shortly after the establishment
of the assay office, large quantities of gold currency were sup-
plied by about a dozen different private parties ; but as these
coinages were generally of less intrinsic worth, in purity and
weight of metal, than their nominal value, they soon fell into
disrepute and were gradually withdrawn from circulation. Some

364 ANNALS OF SAN FEANCISCO.

of them were very neatly executed, and stray specimens may
still be occasionally found by the curious.

Formerly, that is, only two years before, the San Franciscans
were careless in personal appearance, and rude in manners. Now,
they dressed richly and extravagantly, and assumed the polished
airs of gentlemen. A striking change was observable every
where, and in every thing. The houses were growing magnificent,
and their tenants fashionable. Perhaps this fashion was not
quite a la mode de Farts, but rather sui generis. Balls and con-
vivial parties of the most brilliant character were constantly
taking place. The great number of flaunting women of pleasure,
particularly the French, mightily encouraged this universal holi-
day, and gave ease, taste, and sprightly elegance to the manners
of the town. There is perhaps no place in the world where
money is so little regarded as in San Francisco. A man spends
there like a prince, as he gains like one. The " almighty dollar "
to him appears of less worth than a shilling does to people in
England or in our Eastern States. At these balls, and at all
public and private entertainments, immense sums were squan-
dered. Trade might be dull, bad, ruinous — rents might rise or
fall, and people be really insolvent — still they spent money on all
sides. Business losses generally fell on distant correspondents,
and the half-burned and supposed bankrupt and ruined city
showed still the same brilliant bustle ; and its inhabitants still
pursued the same expensive round of amusements. Gold must
come from the placers, and San Francisco never could in a cer-
tain sense be poor. The riches of the Californian mines on the
one side, and the luxuries and conveniences of all countries in
the world on the other, met in San Francisco. It would be hard
indeed for its hot-blooded and venturous population if they did
not make the treasures within their grasp minister to every en-
joyment that youth and sanguine constitutions could crave.

Ever since the first great immigration many of the inhabit-
ants carried some weapon of defence secretly about them.
During the disturbed times in the early part of 1851, when no-
body was safe from the assaults of desperadoes even in the public
street or in his own dwelling, the practice of wearing deadly
weapons became still more common. These were often used —

LAND TITLES THE CAUSE OF DISPUTES. 365

though not so much against the robber and assassin, as upon the
old friend and acquaintance, or the stranger, when drink and
scandal, time and circumstance had converted them into supposed
enemies. The number of duels, and especially of sudden per-
sonal affrays, was fearfully great. The general population of
San Francisco — with shame it must be confessed, in those days,
as is still the case to a considerable extent — drank largely of in-
toxicating liquors. A great many tippled at times, and quite as
many swore lustily. They are an adventurous people, and their
enjoyments are all of an exciting kind. They are bold and
reckless from the style of the place and the nature both of busi-
ness and amusement. New-comers fall naturally into the same
character. It may therefore be imagined that personal rencon-
tres frequently occur among such a population. In 1851 these
were constantly happening. One man perhaps called another a
" liar," and straightway revolvers were produced on both sides.
Repeated shots were hastily fired, with sometimes as much
damage to the by-standers as to the half-drunken quarrellers
themselves. Some scenes of a most savage and atrocious descrip-
tion, ending occasionally in death, took place between parties who
were reputed to be of the first class of citizens. Among the
lower American orders, and in all classes of foreigners, down to
the vilest " greasers," the same violent spirit of personal revenge
and deadly outrage was common. On the slightest occasion, at
a look or touch, an oath, a single word of offence, the bowie-knife
leaped from its sheath, and the loaded revolver from the breast
pocket or the secret case, and death or severe wounds quickly
closed the scene. The spectators often shared in the same wild
feelings, and did not always seek to interfere. The law was pow-
erless to prevent such personal conflicts. Men thought as little
of their blood and hves as of their money, and to gratify high
swelling passion would madly waste them all alike.

One considerable cause of personal disputes and bloodshed
was the uncertainty of legal titles to property, which encouraged
squatterism. Owing to recent conflicting decisions by the courts
of law it almost appeared that the only, or the best title to real
estate was actual possession. A great many people made a prac-
tice of settling down upon any vacant lot they fancied, and per-

366 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

haps ill the course of a night would fence it in and erect some
small house on the ground. When daylight and the proprietor
came, the intruder defied ejection. To seek redress from the
tribunals whose judgments had led to these encroachments was
only ridiculous ; so the parties generally fought it out among
themselves, with the aid of friends and long purses to hire help,
until both suffered considerably in the battle. The effect of these
conflicting legal decisions on the titles to real estate had other-
wise a very prejudicial effect. They hindered the immediate and
permanent improvement of property, since no man would expend
large sums in that way when his title to the ground was in jeop-
ardy. Lenders, already alarmed at the foolish proposals of usury
bills in the Legislature, became shy in advancing money on the
security of many properties ; the value of real estate fell consid-
erably ; in some instances no price whatever could be obtained
where the title was disputed ; and all was painful doubt on the
subject. In 1850, real estate in the city was assessed at the
value of $16,849,024 ; while, in 1851, it was only |10,518,273 ;
and this was notwithstanding the vast improvements that had
taken place in the interval. In the end, certain acts passed by
the State, which confirmed sales of the beach and water lots by
the city and sanctioned its title to those lots still unsold, and
also later and more satisfactory decisions of the Supreme Court
in the matter of titles, helped to re-establish confidence on the
subject, and secure the old owner in his property against the
mere squatter.

The commerce and imports of San Francisco were very great
during 1851 — too great indeed for a jjrofitable trade. The fall
in the prices of nearly all kinds of merchandise which lasted over
a great part of 1850, continued during the following year. Mat-
ters were perhaps not quite so bad as when, in the si3ring of
1850, chests of tobacco were used to pave the streets or make a
solid foundation for houses, and when nearly every article of mer-
chandise went a-begging for a buyer, and not finding one was cast
aside to rot, or used to fill up mud-holes ; but still, in 1851, most
kinds of goods were a dead loss to the owner. In the palmy
days of '48 and '49, all were purchasers, at any price : now every
body sought to sell, at no matter what sacrifice. In '49 a dollar

DEPRECIATED VALUE OF MERCHANDISE. 367

was paid for a pill, and the same sum for an egg ; a hundred dol-
lars for a pair of boots, and twice that sum for a decent suit of
clothes ; a single rough brick cost a dime, and a plank some
twenty feet long was cheap at ten dollars. At one period of that
wondrous year, common iron tacks of the smallest size, sold for their
weight in gold ; and for a long period were in request at from five to
ten dollars an ounce. But in '51, bales of valuable goods were some-
times not worth their storage. There happened to be no plaster
walls in '49, and small tacks, — of which there was only a very
meagre quantity in the country, — were in extreme demand for
fastening the usual muslin coverings to the wooden partitions of
houses. Hence the a})parently extravagant sum that was given.
Every thing that was useful and really needed in those earlier
days commanded the most astonishing prices. The supply was
limited and the demand great, while money was suddenly plenti-
ful. But in 1851, the stock of all kinds of goods was greatly
over-proportioned to the natural demand of the place. The pop-
ulation of the city and country generally, although numbering
only about a quarter of a million persons, yet being nearly all in
the prime of life, rich and careless, and with large appetites, con-
sumed and wasted the goods and provisions that would have sat-
isfied an ordinary population of perhaps a million of people.
Still the imports into San Francisco were far ahead of the most
extravagant demands and consumption of the ravenous, wasteful
people of California. For any article actually required, and of
which there might be but a scanty stock in the market, noble
rates were still given ; but as the supply of most goods was im-
mense, prices feU accordingly. The auctioneers, whose business
and importance daily increased, rattled away shiploads of mer-
chandise at often nominal prices. Extravagance and waste did
their best, but they could not destroy every thing. Enormous
losses were sustained during 1850, and especially in 1851, by
foreign shippers. The commercial people in San Francisco gen-
erally acted as agents on commission for others, and did not often
import as merchants on their own account. The losses therefore
on merchandise did not so very muchafiect individual citizens, while
to the general public it was a positive gain to have an unlimited
supply of goods at low prices.

368 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

In the ordinary recreations of the city a change was gradually
taking place. The gambling-saloons, though still very many,
were becoming fewer, while billiard-rooms and drinking-bars or
saloons for refreshment and conversation, were increasing in num-
ber, in size and handsome style. There is no place in the world
with so many billiard- tables in it in proportion to the population,
as San Francisco ; and but few places, if any, with more drink-
ing-houses. In such quarters, in 1851, a large proportion of the
inhabitants usually spent their evenings. Other crowds nightly
filled the large and beautiful theatres that were now erected.
Balls, masquerades and concerts, gambling-saloons, visits to frail
women, — who always have been very numerous and gay in San
Francisco, — and an occasional lecture, filled up the measure of
evening amusement. Gayety and personal dissipation were then,
as they are now, characteristic features of the city. Nor were
these things confined to the upper and richer classes. Labor was
paid so highly that all orders of the people had money at command
to squander in amusements. During the day, and particularly
on Sundays, the " swells" of both the highest and the lowest rank,
cantered to the presidio or the mission, or scampered among the
sand-hills behind the town, or crossed the bay in tlie small steam-
ers to Contra Costa, or formed pic-nic excursions to the fort, or
the outer telegraph hill, or on the sea-shore, or somewhere among
the lonely and picturesque valleys among the hills. San Fran-
cisco was certainly a great city ; and its people had great notions ;
their deeds of business and amusement were all great in their way.

The large admixture of foreign races, particularly the light-
hearted, theatre-loving French, the musical Germans, and the
laughter-loving, idle, dancing Hispano- Americans, tended to give
a pleasant, gay aspect to the city. The grave national character
of United States men was converted into levity and cheerfulness
by the example and sympathy of their merry neighbors. It may
be said, at the same time, that the foreign population were gen-
erally an orderly, obedient and useful class of the community.
The Chinese might here perhaps form an exception. They are
an exclusive race, and mingle but little save with their own people.
They were now beginning to arrive in considerable numbers, bring-
mg with them a number of their women, who are among the filthi-

THE CITY FINANCES. 369

est and most abandoned of their sex. They, as well as most of
the foreign races, generally dwelt together in particular localities,
which gave these quarters a distinctive appearance from the rest
of the town. The Chinese and the free negroes, of whom there
was now a goodly sprinkling, were " the hewers of wood and the
drawers of water " of the place ; and perfjrmed washing and wo-
men's business, and such menial offices as American white males
would scorn to do for any remuneration. The " greasers," too,
who are verily " of the earth, earthy," helped the " celestials "
and the black fellows, or infernals, in their dirty work.

In various parts of this book, we have dwelt so fully on the
state of crime and public morals during IS'Sl, that it is unneces-
sary to say much more on the subject in this general chapter.
The extraordinary action of the Vigilance Committee, proved most
salutary to the best interests of the community. After a. few
hangings, which were signalized by scenes of the most terrible and
impressive nature, the social state of the city was much improved ;
and people could venture to appear at dark in the streets, or to
dwell alone in poorly defended houses, without dread of the assas-
sin, the burglar, or the incendiary. Crime was now principally
confined to petty thefts, for which the "chain-gang" was an ex-
cellent punishment ; while cases of bloodshed, — and they were
frightfully many, — arose cliiefly from the rampant, unregulated
passions of the people, who thought and called themselves, as
they were reckoned by others, respectable men and good citizens.

The financial affairs of the city, which had long been in a very
confused and ruinous state, were, towards the close of 1851, much
simplified and improved. The general improvidence and corrup-
tion of a long series of municipal authorities, from the day when
the American flag was first hoisted on j;he plaza, had squandered
or jobbed away many of the most valuable portions of the real
estate belonging to the corporation. But the funding of the float-
ing debt, and perhaps the increasing purity, or dread of being
found out, on the part of recent officials, with other causes, tended
gradually to raise the credit of the city. The next great blow
which fell upon the municipal funds was the noted matter of the
"Peter Smith" sales, which shall be duly chronicled among the
events of 1852.
24

CHAPTER XIX.
1852.

Dr. Peter Smith.— His contract witli the city to take charge of the indigent sick.— The city's indebt-
edness. — Smith's judgments and executions. — Injunctions of the commissioners of the funded
debt— Sale and sacrifice of tho city property under Smith's judgments.

January. — Some time before this date certain legal proceedings
took place which much affected the pecuniary interests of the city.
These subsequently involved it in great and expensive litigation,
where millions' worth of property were concerned. The whole sub-
ject forms one of the most important series of events in the histo-
ry of the city, and has long excited the close attention of the cit-
izens and the deepest regret in the minds of all honest men that
such unfortunate circumstances should have occurred. Charges
of official corruption and private jobbery have at different times
been made openly, and oftener whispered, against prominent citi-
zens for their connection with the matter, and improper motives
have been very freely imputed to them. Lawsuits have been long
and vigorously carried on regarding the subject, the final decisions
upon some of which have regulated the ownership and titles to a
vast amount of property. We have selected the opening of this
year for a short general statement of the case, although some of
the particular events alluded to occur much later in point of
time.

In the course of 1850, Dr. Peter Smith contracted with the city
for the care of its indigent sick. For each patient he was allowed
a sum of four dollars daily. This may now seem a high allowance,
but at that period, — to say nothing of the usual jobbery in tho
matter, — the cost of house-rent, boarding, medicines and medical
attendance, was very great. The city having little money in its
exchequer at the time, generally paid Dr. Smith in the shape of

THE PETEE SMITH SALES. 371

sa'ip, which bore a monthly interest of three per cent, till redeem-
ed by cash payments. The common council were meanwhile reg-
ularly auditing Smith's accounts, at short intervals ; while they
continued to give that gentleman the necessary amounts of scrip
to satisfy the different balances as they arose. Altogether,
the amount of city indebtedness under Smith's contract was
$64,431.

The total amount of city scrip granted in 1850 and the begin-
ning of 1851, was exceedingly great, and, as we have already men-
tioned, an act, after considerable discussion and delay, was finally
passed by the Legislature, to fund the floating debt and convert
the same into stock, bearing an annual interest of ten per cent.
General creditors, however, as well as holders of scrip, were neither
obliged to await the passage of this act, nor afterwards to accept
the terms of conversion. To those who possessed the obligations
of the city, or who held it bound as debtor in any actual or im-
plied contract, the ordinary courts of law were open for ascertaining
and making effectual the amounts of their claims. Accordingly,
some creditors, — and chiefly Dr. Smith, — proceeded to take the
necessary legal steps to procure judgments against the city, and
to make executions and sales of its property. If all the then hold-
ers of scrip or of city indebtedness had acted in this fashion, there
would only have resulted " confusion, worse confounded ; " and
neither Dr. Peter Smith nor any one of the city creditors would
have profited by his hasty and preference-seeking proceedings. As
it happened, the party named was almost the sole, as he was the
chief creditor, who thought fit thus to secure his strictly legal
rights.

On the 25th of February, 1851, Smith recovered judgment
against the city for $19,239, being a portion of the total amount
claimed by him ; and on the 8th of July following, the sheriff
proceeded to sell so much of the city property as, it was expected,
would defray the sum named. At this sale the various wharves
belonging to the corporation were sold, as also the old city hall
lot, and the city hospital and buildings. By this time the act to
fund the municipal floating debt had been passed, and its proper-
ty conveyed to the commissioners there named. At first sight it
appeared improper, and perhaps ridiculous, in the circumstances,

372 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

for an individual to sue the city to extremities, and seek to gain a
preference over the general body of creditors. The commissioners
of the funded debt made both public and private statements in
the strongest terms, to the effect that any sales which might take
place under the Smith judgments would be held as illegal and of
not the slightest value. This conduct on their part, as well as a
vague general impression among the citizens, that such was, or
certainly ought to be the true state of the case, had the effect of
discouraging buyers from attending and bidding at the sales in
question ; and consequently the property was sold at merely nomi-
nal prices, perhaps at not a twentieth, or even a fiftieth part of
its real value. The sum realized was therefore insufficient to sat-
isfy Smith's judgment. Accordingly an alias execution for the
balance was issued on the 7th of August following, upon which
the sheriif, on the 17th of September thereafter, sold forty one-
hundred-vara lots, fifty-five fifty-vara lots and one water lot. But
as the old impression remained that the whole proceedings were
illegal, nominal prices were again only obtained for the great
amount of property mentioned. On the 2d January, 1852, the
sheriff further sold an immense amount of water lot property
of the value, at least, of half a million of dollars, also at nom-
inal prices. Still the original judgment was unsatisfied.

Meanwhile a second suit had been raised by Smith against the
city, upon which judgment, on the 4th of March, 1851, was duly
obtained, for $45,538. Upon this, the sheriff advertised to sell
on 14th June following, one hundred and three water lots, twenty-
seven blocks on South Beach, and seven one-hundred -vara lots.
The commissioners, consequently, in order to save the city's pro-
perty from the threatened sacrifice, appealed to the proper legal
tribunals for injunctions to stay the sheriff's sale ; but for reasons
which may not here be named, their appeal was disregarded. Fail-
ing to obtain the necessary injunction, and still determined to
protect the interests of the people, the commissioners attempted
to compromise matters with Dr. Smith, to effect which object,
Col. J. W. Geary and Judge P. A. Morse, on behalf of the Board,
personally waited upon John McHenry, Esq., counsel for Peter
Smith, and guaranteed to secure to Smith from their own private
funds the whole amount of his judgment on condition that the

THE PETEK SMITH SALES. 373

sale should be arrested. This generous offer, which had it been
accepted, would have saved millions of dollars to the city, from
the pockets of a few greedy speculators who were instigating and
abetting the proceedings of Smith, was not only rejected, but
treated with contempt. The commissioners driven to their last
resource, and acting under advice of their attorney, Solomon Hey-
denfeldt, Esq., who subsequently became and was a judge of the
Supreme Court, when the decision against the action of the com-
missioners and confirming the " Peter Smith Titles" obtained from
the sheriff, was given, issued the following address : —

" TO THE PUBLIC.

" A sale of a large number of city lots is advertised to take place this day,
by virtue of an execution in the hands of the Sheriff, in favor of Peter Smith
against the city of San Francisco. The public are hereby notified, that the
city has no legal title to the said lots, nor had any title at the time of the ren-
dition of the judgment. By virtue of an ordinance of Council the city convey-
ed the said lots in December last to the Commissioners of the Sinking Fund,
in trust for the benefit of the creditors of the city ; and by virtue of an act of
the last Legislature, the Commissioners of the Sinking Fund conveyed said
lots to the present Commissioners of the Funded Debt upon the same trusts.
Some time since an injunction was obtained in the District Court to pi'event
this sale. The injunction was dissolved on the ground that the judgment cre-
ditor of the city had the right to sell whatever interest the city may have left
after the execution of the trust, and that such sale would not interfere with
the trust. Every one will readily perceive that a purchase made at the Sher-
iff's sale will convey no title, because the property of the city is insufficient to
pay all of her debts, and under the acts above referred to, it will be the duty
of the present Commissioners of the Funded Debt to sell said property in ex-
ecution of the trusts confided to them, at which sales the purchasers will be
enabled to obtain a complete and perfect title. The public are therefore cau-
tioned to disregard the sale to be made by the Sheriff to-day, and the under-
signed have given this notice so that no one can complain hereafter that they
were purchasers without actual notice of the title held by the undersigned.

P. A. MORSK,

D. J. Tallant, Commissioners

Wm. Hooper, \. of

Jno. W. Geary,
James King, of Wm.

Office Commissioner's Funded Debt, June 14, 1851."

Funded Delt.

This address, which was published in the daily papers, and
even read to the people on the day it was issued, failed to produce

374 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

the effect intended by the commissioners. While, perhaps, they
never supposed it would deter the sheriff from proceeding with
the sale, which took place according to advertisement ; they, at
least, and we must believe, honestly supposed that it would pre-
vent citizens from purchasing property which the sheriff, accord-
ing to their opinion, had no legal right to sell, and of paying money
for titles which would never be confirmed, and therefore would be
valueless. Their action in the matter, certainly prevented many
persons from building or purchasing at the sale, and as before, the
lots were disposed of at ridiculously low rates. For this, the com-
missioners have of late been the objects of much public censure
and private calumny. Their conduct has been loudly condemned
and their motives impugned. But it should be observed, that
they acted by advice of learned counsel ; though singularly enough,
their adviser subsequently became a judge of the Supreme Court,
where he held a seat at the very time the decision was given ad-
verse to his former instructions, and legalizing the sales, by the
sheriff, of the city property, under the judgments of Smith.

But it is unnecessary, in this work, which does not profess to
be a legal guide to the titles of real estate, to detail minutely the
further judgments and sales. It is sufficient to say that Dr. Smith
instituted other suits, procured new judgments, and made new
executions and sales of the most valuable portions of the property
still left to the city. The great sale of the 30th of January, 1852,
may only be alluded to, at which about two thousand acres of
land belonging to the city, and situated within the municipal
bounds, were disposed of by the sheriff in the manner above men-
tioned. As in the beginning, so to the end of these sales, only
nominal prices were obtained. The city was losing piece-meal
the best part of its real estate, while what between principal, in-
terest and legal costs, the old debt of Smith long remained nearly
as great as ever. In the end it was wiped off, but at what an
enormous sacrifice !

At first the general public were inclined to treat the whole
proceedings as a farce, though a somewhat expensive one to the
purchasers at the sheriff's repeated sales. Farther consideration
made people begin to think that, after all, the laugh and profit
might really be on the side of those supposed foolish persons. The

THE PETER SMITH SALES. 375

commissioners of the funded debt, in pursuance of their duties,
attempted to sell various portions of the city property, but were
baffled by repeated injunctions on the part of the holders of what
were at this time and have since been commonly called the " Pe-
ter Smith Titles." The boards of aldermen next meddled in
the fray, and they likewise began to deal in injunctions and other
legal annoyances. Matters looked bad, and soon the progress of
serious lawsuits made them much worse. Opportunities were
still given to cancel or remedy the worst parts of the original ob-
jectionable measures. The boards of aldermen and the mayor
happened to be opposed in this as in many other matters of con-
sequence, while the funded debt commissioners, were also not on
the best terms with the common council, which last body again
scarcely possessed the public confidence. Thus there was a gen-
eral want of union and common action in most municipal matters ;
while especially in regard to the Smith sales, either nobody
knew what to do, or every body pretended nothing could be
done. At any rate, nothing effectual was done to save the city's
interests.

At the last moment allowed by law for the redemption of pro-
perty sold under the sheriff's authority, a large sum of money
was procured through the liberaUty and public spirit of a distin-
guished and worthy firm, Messrs. Theodore Payne & Co., and
tender was made of the sums, principal, interest and charges,
contained in one of the judgments upon which the sale of the 30th
January, 1852, had taken place. This redemption-money was
refused by those who had purchased at the sale mentioned ; and
immediately new lawsuits were raised to try the question whether
it had been offered timeously and by the proper parties, or whe-
ther indeed there could be any right of redemption whatever in
the case. By and by the attorney-general instituted an action
against the funded debt commissioners, in which was claimed the
twenty-five pe?' cent, due to the State of the supposed real value
of the water lots that had been sold at nominal prices. That ac-
tion was based on allegations of fraud, or culpable ignorance, or
carelessness on the part of the commissioners. The pecuniary
value of the whole property involved in these several sales was esti-
mated, in 1852, at about two millions of dollars, although two

376 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

years later its probable value might be nearer twice, or perhaps
thrice that amount.

It was subsequently decided by the Supreme Court, that the
sales of the wharves and certain other portions of the city proper-
ty were legal. This swept away for ever one great portion of the
corporation means. The next question was the vahdity of the
redemption above mentioned. It was contended that the mayor
and the funded debt commissioners (which parties had made the
tender), were not entitled to redeem, especially without instruc-
tion from the council boards, that right being only in the city in
its corporate capacity. Other legal points of nicety arose, in re-
gard, particularly, to the alleged right of redemption itself.
These were long matters of contention, and from the immense
pecuniary interests at stake, the action was conducted on both
sides with aU the talent and chicanery that influence or money
could persuade or buy. At length, and while we write (April,
1854), a decision has been given, that the redemption money al-
luded to was not offered by the parties who alone were entitled to
make it, and that therefore the relative sales were legal. Tliis
judgment embraced other points of law upon which it was like-
wise founded, but it is unnecessary here to allude farther to them.
These several decisions have had the effect of depriving the city
of an enormous amount of property, the possession of which would
have much relieved the inhabitants of a great and annually in-
creasing taxation.

There is still, as there has long been, much bitter and angry
feeling existing in the city respecting the " Peter Smith Titles."
San Francisco has somehow lost its best and most valuable pro-
perty, and individual citizens have gained immense fortunes by
the loss. Little or no money has really been paid by these lucky
speculators in " the glorious uncertainty of the law." So far as
Smith is concerned, it was his undoubted right to make his claims
against the city effectual, if he legally could. The same right
was in the power of aU its other creditors. That they did not
exercise their privileges was not the doctor's fault. At the same
time it may just be mentioned as a fact, that public indignation
was strongly excited against his independent and seek-my-own-
good style of action. Still, whatever may be thought of that

THE PETER SMITH SALES, * 377

gentleman's discretion or patriotism in the matter, or of the
original nature of his claims, which (perhaps, without that close
scrutiny that should have been given), having been sustained by
legal judgments, became settled facts^ he is not lightly to be
blamed for the unfortunate events that afterwards occurred. The
same may not be said of certain officials and private citizens who
joined and acted with them. Every thing was certainly done to
cry down the right of Smith to sell, and thereby was lowered the
value of the municipal property. If this effect was foreseen and
wilfully intended, as many have not scrupled to assert, in order
to allow a clique of grand speculators to prey on the city means,
their conduct cannot be too strongly condemned. If their pro-
ceedings arose simply from an error in judgment, the sad effects
can only be deploi-ed. The foregoing relation of facts seem
clearly to show that the commissioners acted in good faith. They
were men of reputed integrity, and had already " done the State
some service." The general public took the same view of the
subject as did the commissioners. They believed the sales to be
invalid, and that the titles obtained from them would be worth-
less. Hence the sheriff had only for bidders and buyers those
daring speculators, who either knew the law better, or were de-
termined to " chance it ; " and who, without competition, had
the most valuable lots knocked down to them at the cost of an
old song. Then, after all, is nobody to be blamed for the unfor-
tunate issue ? When millions have been lost in this way to the
community, it is hard to convince the citizens that no underhand
dealing has taken place ; that no corruption, no wilful dela}',
false statements, gross personal interests and plotting have been
at work. It may not be easy to discover and brand the guilty
persons, and people may entertain different suspicions as to
their names and special concern in the grand game of spoliation.
Let every one therefore keep his own thoughts on the business.
At this stage of the affair, it is perhaps impossible to get at " the
truth — the whole truth — and nothing but the truth." One thing
only seems certain — the "manifest destiny" of San Francisco is
to be plundered at all hands, and to yield easy and quickly won
fortunes to her '' most prominent citizens."

CHAPTER XX.
1852.

The Chinese in California.— Act passed to fund the floating debt of the State.— The State Marine
Hospital.— Act to convert into a seven per cent, stock the floating debt of the County of San
Francisco.— Anniversary of fires.- Meetings of the Vigilance Committee.

Apkil. — The immigration of Chinese into Cahfornia has great-
ly increased of late. By this month it was supposed that
upwards of ten thousand of that people had arrived at San
Francisco, while as many more were estimated to be on the way.
Considerable pubhc discussion existed at this period on the de-
sirableness of such a vast immigration of the race ; and we take
occasion to make some general remarks on the subject, as well as
apon the present (1854) condition of Chinamen in the city.

The manners and habits of the Chinese are very repugnant to
Americans in California. Of different language, blood, religion
and character, inferior in most mental and bodily quaUties, the
Chinaman is looked upon by some as only a little superior to the
negro, and by others as somewhat inferior. It is needless to
reason upon such a matter. Those who have mingled familiarly
with " celestials " have commonly felt before long an uncontrolla-
ble sort of loathing against them. "John's" person does not
smell very sweetly ; his color and the features of his face are un-
usual ; his penuriousness is extreme ; his lying, knavery and na-
tural cowardice are proverbial ; he dwells apart from white jDer-
sons, herding only with countrymen, unable to communicate his
ideas to such as are not of his nation, or to show the better part
of his nature. He is poor and mean, somewhat slavish and
crouching, and is despised by the whites, who would only laugh
in derision if even a divine were to pretend to place the two
races on an equality. In short, there is a strong feeling, —

THE CHINESE IN CALIFORNIA.

379

prejudice it may be, — existing in California against all China-
men, and they are nicknamed, cuffed about and treated very un-
ceremoniously by every other class. Yet they are generally quiet
and industrious members of society, charitable among them-
selves, not given to intemperance and the rude vices which drink
induces, and are reputed to be remarkably attached to their pa-

^yy^i^^^''^"'

Chinese Merchants and Coolio.

rents, revering indeed in all persons advanced years, which are
supposed to bring wisdom. The Chinese, or certain large tribes
of their nation, are of a migratory disposition. They have long
since wandered over the many great and rich islands and coun-
tries lying around their o'smi land, and have contrived to secure
to themselves a large portion of the most valuable trade and
commerce of these places. From Canton to Calcutta and Callao,
to Melbourne and Manilla, they swarm in all the ports of the
Pacific, and more especially in those of the great Malay archi-
pelago. There seems a vast pressure upon the interior midtitudes
of China, which forces many thousands annually to leave that
densely peopled country, for the sake of a bare subsistence, and
to save starvation at home. Little food, and that of the coarsest

380 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

and cheapest kind, suffices to support the hfe of Chinamen ; and
to procure that, they will drudge long and patiently at the most
painful task. When in a foreign country they have contrived to
amass a small sum, which may be considered a fortune by them-
selves, they generally seek to return to spend it, and enjoy the
remainder of their days among kinsmen. This class of people
will perhaps form a large portion of the future population of
California, especially if any State encouragement should be given
them and a short notice of their character is not out of place in
this work. At present they make one of the most striking pe-
culiarities of San Francisco.

From the date of the discovery of gold Chinamen had occa-
sionally appeared in the country ; but it was only in 1851 and
1852 that their rapidly increasing numbers began to attract much
notice. Considerable apprehension began then to be entertained
of the supposed bad effect which their presence would have on
the white pojDulation. Large bands of Chinese were working at
the mines upon conditions which were supposed to be closely
allied to a state of slavery. Much misunderstanding arose on
the subject. It was believed that the gangs were receiving only
subsistence and nominal wages, — some four or five dollars per
month for each man, — and that speculators, both yellow and
white, were setting them to work on various undertakings which
free white laborers conceived should only be executed by them-
selves. If these vast inroads of Chinese were to continue, the
white miner considered that he might as weU leave the country
at once, since he could not pretend to compete with the poverty-
stricken, meek and cheap " coolie," as so John Chinaman was
now called by many. It was true that the latter never sought
to interfere with the rich claims which the American miner
wrought, while he submitted very patiently to be violently driven
away from whatever neglected spot he might have occupied, but
which the white man suddenly chose to fancy. It was true also
that the Chinaman regularly paid, as a foreigner, — and was al-
most the only foreigner that did so, — his mining license to the
State ; and was a peaceable and hard-working subject. These
things did not matter. Right or wrong, he should be driven from
competition with free white men, or his labor should be confined

GOVERNOR BIGLER AND THE CHINESE 381

to certain inferior kinds of work, to which the dominant lords of
the soil never meant to apply themselves. Angry words, much
strife and perhaps some bloodshed, were generated in the mining
regions, and the hapless Chinese were driven backwards and for-
wards, and their lives made miserable.

Governor Bigler, influenced by the American miners' feel-
ings, issued a message in which he stigmatized the Chinese as
" cooUes," (an appellation which they professed to abhor,) and
advised the Legislature to pass a law prohibiting the farther
immigration of that people. The terms of this message were
considered - offensive and uncalled for by most of the intelligent
and liberal-minded Americans. The Chinese in San Francisco,
who now formed a large class of the community, took the matter
much to heart, and, on the 29th April of this year, published a
long letter or manifesto in answer to the governor's message.
This letter was written temperately, and was an exceedingly able
document. Subsequent communications of a like nature passed
between the governor and the Chinese. The Legislature mean-
while had appointed a committee to consider and report upon the
whole subject, and sundry passionate, and some other amusing
speeches were occasionally delivered in the State chambers. In
the end, the illiberal action suggested by the governor was not
adopted, and soon the matter fell asleep. Farther immigration
of this people took place in the course of 1852, and towards the
close of that year, there were probably sixteen or twenty thou-
sand of them in the country. Considerable numbers have since
left, but as many others have come in their stead, it may be sup-
posed that in 1854 there is still nearly the number mentioned.

In San Francisco, the Chinese were, in 1852, as they have
always since continued to be, very numerous — perhaps numbering
from three to four thousand. The following description of their
present condition is also applicable to the year named. Though
individuals of the race reside and carry on business in every quar-
ter of the city, the chief district in which they are located is the
upper part of Sacramento street, the whole length of Dupont
street, and portions of various other streets adjoining these
named. In such places the Chinese are almost the only inhabit-
ants, and the quarter is often called " Little China." There is

382 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

a considerable number of respectable and wealthy Chinese mer-
chants and shopkeepers in San Francisco, who have extensive
business premises in Sacramento street and in various other parts
of the city. Their merchandise, as might be expected, is chiefly
the goods of their own country. These are of the " upper ten "
order, the Corinthian capital of the "celestial" pillar, and
would be a credit to any community. They are polite, shrewd,
and learned gentlemen ; and are sometimes generous. They can
either talk the English language pretty fluently themselves, or
by means of an interpreter can conduct any business transaction
or private conversation. But the great mass of their country-
men is of a very inferior description. Most of this class, who do
really work, engage in the washing and dressing of clothes, for
which they receive such wages as must appear to them noble re-
muneration. The washing and drying are conducted at the dif-
ferent lagoons and wells in the vicinity of the city, while in the
smallest, meanest habitation in every street, the Chinaman may
be seen dihgently ironing and finishing the cleansed garment with
his smooth-bottomed chafing-dish of burning coals. They are
also employed as porters in warehouses and stores, and in vari-
ous other kinds of inferior labor.

It appears, however, to most residents in San Francisco, a
most curious thing how the great number of that people support
themselves. The majority certainly seem to be quite idle, or
only busy in gambling, which cannot be a very lucrative pursuit.
A portion of the upper end of Sacramento street, and nearly all
the eastern side of Dupont street, are occupied with Chinese
gambling-houses, which night and day are filled with crowds of
that people. The rooms, or " saloons," are generally small, each
containing from three to half a dozen tables, or " banks." At
the innermost end of some of the principal gambling places, there
is an orchestra of five or six native musicians, who produce such
extraordinary sounds from their curiously shaped instruments as
severely torture the white man to listen to. Occasionally a
songster adds his howl or shriek to the excruciating harmony.
The wailings of a thousand love-lorn cats, the screams, gobbhngs,
brayings, and barkings of as many peacocks, turkeys, donkeys,
and dogs, — the "ear-piercing" noises of hundreds of botching

CHINESE GAMBLING AND MUSIC.

383

cork-cutters, knife-grinders, file-makers, and the like, — would
not make a more discordant and agonizing concert than these
Chinese musical performers in their gambling-houses. Heaven
has ordered it, no doubt, for wise purposes, that the windy chaos
is pleasant to the auricular nerves of the natives. Occasionally a
few white men will venture into these places, and gaze with min-

-t<?iS^^

Chinese Gambling-honse.

gled contempt and wonder upon the grave, melancholy, strange
faces of the gamblers, and their curious mode of playing. There
seems to be only one game in vogue. A heap of brass counters
is displayed on the plain mat-covered table, and the banker, with
a long, slender stick, picks and counts them out one by one,
while the stakers gaze with intense interest on the process. The
game seems of the simplest nature, though white people scorn to
know any thing about it. A few low guttural, gobbling sounds,
are occasionally interchanged between the rapt players. A rank
sinell pervades the place, but that is submitted to for a while by
the casual visitor. At last the diabolical music reaches some
fortissimo passage of intense meaning, while the wild howls and

384 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

screams of the singer swell even above the dreadful instrumental
din, and then the " outside barbarian" is fain to fly.

While one large portion of the Chinese population of San
Francisco seems to be constantly engaged in gambling, another,
almost equally large, — the females of the race, — follow prostitu-
tion as a trade. In 1851, there were only a few Chinese women
in the city, among whom was the notorious Miss or Mrs. Atoy.
Every body knew that famous or infamous character, who was
alternately the laughing-stock and the plague of the place. Her
advices home seem to have encouraged the sex to visit so delight-
ful a spot as San Francisco, and by and by, notwithstanding all
the efforts of the male Chinese to keep back their countrywomen,
great numbers of the latter flocked to the city. It is perhaps
only necessary to say that they are the most indecent and shame-
less part of the population, without dwelling more particularly
upon their manners and customs. Dupont street, and portions
of Pacific, and other cross streets, are thickly peopled with these
vile creatures.

Notwithstanding all the reputed industry of the Chinese, and
which has somehow become a "household word" over the world,
it must be confessed that prostitution and gambling seem, in
fact, the steady business of the majority of that nation in San
Francisco. The truly industrious, well behaved, and worthy part
of the people are scattered over the city and its environs, and are
seldom seen, while the gamblers, the frail nymphs, and the yellow
loafer class are continually loitering about the streets, or in their
own proper, open dens, and are every where visible.

In 1852, a regular Chinese dramatic company appeared and
performed pieces in their native language. These performances
were largely patronized by their countrymen, as weU as by many
of the white inhabitants, who were curious to witness a real play
done by such actors. In 1853, another Chinese theatre was
opened. Besides these exhibitions, these people have occasionally
other ceremonies and amusements pecuhar to themselves. At
two periods of the year, in spring and autumn, they form grand
processions, and march to Yerba Buena Cemetery with roasted
pigs and goats, the smell of which seems grateful to the spirits
of their dead lying there. After firing a multitude of crackers.

CHINESE SOCIETY.

385

burning mystic papers, and performing a variety of droll capers,
they lift again the dainty meats, and march back in procession
to town to feed heartily on them. Huge, gaudy standards, gilded
drasons, with lono; tails, and a national orchestra, astonish and
disgust the bystanders, but extravagantly delight the saffron-
colored Johns. We have noticed above the nature of their in-

Cbinese Femalea.

strumental and vocal music. Most of their national customs and
doings are as little agreeable to white people as those horrible
sounds which make the "celestial" harmony.

There seems to be some secret societies among this people,
by means of which a few of their number have occasionally been
found to grossly oppress their poorer brethren. The police have
attempted to interfere and protect the injured, though seldom
with much effect. The terror of these, lest vengeance should
somehow befall them from their persecutors, have generally pre-
vented full disclosures of the unlawful practices of the secret soci-
eties. So proverbial is falsehood among all classes of the Chi-
nese here, that one is quite at a loss to know any thing of their
peculiar private associations and customs.
25

One strange idea

386 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

amono- them seems to be, that it is a matter of honor for a debtor
who cannot pay his obligations to kill himself. Death cancels
all debt, and clears scores with hard-hearted creditors. Even
Chinese Avomen, at different times, have poisoned themselves here
with opium, to satisfy this curious code of honor. Some of the
Chinese merchants are reputed to be pretty wealthy. They are
now (in 1854) erecting a handsome building as a sort of Mer-
chants' Exchange, specially for their own people. There is a
Chinese mission in the city, and some of the race profess them-
selves Christians.

The Chinese in San Francisco make an extraordinary feature
of the city, and appeal very strongly to most organs of the stranger
— to his eye, ear, and nose. They are seen in every street quietly
passing along. The white immigrant, who may never before
have met with specimens of the race, involuntarily stops, and
gazes curiously upon this peculiar people, whose features are so
remarkable, and whose raiment is so strange, yet unpretending,
plain and useful. They are generally peaceable and contented
among themselves, and seldom trouble the authorities except in
case of mere ignorance of the municipal ordinances. As we have
said, there are many most respectable merchants of their race.
These are active and keen men in bargaining. They dress in a
characteristic and sumptuous manner, and in their own exclusive
circles, where no low-caste countryman is allowed to intrude,
will no doubt have much refined and intellectual enjoyment.
Such flowery grandees as luxuriate in wives are proud to let the
white man know that their charmers have the little feet of ladies,
not the great hoofs of the trollojiing damsels who haunt the
streets and lie in wait for the foolish stranger. Nearly the
whole race, from the "upper ten" to the lower thousands, wear
the time-hallowed tail ; while their every-day garb is the imme-
morial clothing of Chinamen. Some, indeed, sport one or more
articles of the white man's dress — his boots, trousers, coat, or hat ;
but these are comparatively few. On occasions of public rejoicing,
the Chinese muster in numerous bodies, while their banners, cars,
and they themselves, in their most superb array, form striking
and interesting features in procession, and the like. They are
very fond of such shows, and among themselves appear to observe

FLOATING DEBT OF THE STATE.

387

many national, or private holidays, at which an abundance of
their famous crackers are discharged. Their dwellings, some of
which are brought in frames direct from China, and erected by
themselves, are small and incommodious, though extraordinary
numbers somehow contrive to creep into them, and live very com-
fortably. Over the fronts of many of these houses are nightly
displayed the common colored paper lanterns of China.

?>^^/^^ ■

Chinese Merchants.

May 1st. — Act passed by the Legislature to fund the float-
ing debt of the State, and to issue stock to the extent of
$600,000, bearing interest at the rate of seven per cent, per an-
num. The principal of the debt is declared payable in New
York, or at the State Treasury, at the option of the parties re-
ceiving the stock bonds, on the 1st day of March, 1870. The
interest to be payable either in New York or at the office of the

388 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

treasurer of the State. Particular provisions are made in regard
to a sinking fund, and as to the annual interest.

Mat 3d. — Of this date acts were passed by the Legislature
to amend certain acts which had been passed in the previous
session relating to the establishment of a " State Marine Hospi-
tal at San Francisco," and providing for its revenue, and also
concerning passengers arriving in the ports of Cahfornia, This
hospital received such indigent sick as were objects of State char-
ity, as well as such invalids as were properly chargeable on the
city, upon payment of certain fees by the latter. Parties in
good health could secure the advantages of the hospital for one
year, in the event of sickness, upon payment of the sum of five
dollars. Other parties, invalids at the time, might be admitted,
after obtaining the certificate of the resident physician, and upon
payment of such fees as should from time to time be fixed. The
funds and management of the hospital were vested in a board of
trustees, to be composed of seven persons, five of whom (resi-
dents in San Francisco) were to be chosen annually by the Legis-
lature, and the other two were to be the mayor and president of
the chamber of commerce of that city for the time being. Of
this board the mayor was declared president. The board was to
choose a treasurer and inferior ofiicials, while the Legislature was
to appoint one resident and two visiting physicians for the term
of two years, to each of whom a salary of five thousand dollars
was allowed.

The revenue of the hospital was to be derived from various
sources, such as — from a commutation tax upon all immigrants
arriving in California by sea, being ten and five dollars upon each
cabin and steerage passenger respectively, and which tax was
divisible as follows, viz. : three-fifths to the State Marine Hospi-
tal at San Francisco, one-fifth to the Sacramento State Hospital
(since abolished), and one-fifth to the State Hospital at Stock-
ton ; from a tax of one dollar upon each passenger, sailor, or
mariner leaving the port of San Francisco, — from the one-half
of all sums received by the city of San Francisco on account of
licenses to hawkers and peddlers, and on account of auction
sales and for licenses for gaming, — from the efiects and pro-
perty of all persons dying in the hospital, which might not be

ANNIVERSAKY OF FIKES. 389

legally claimed by others, — from voluntary donations, and the
sums paid by parties to secure the advantages of the institution,
&c. An additional one-fourth of the sums received by the city
on account of licenses for gaming was also payable by it to the
board of trustees, to be applied by the latter, in the first in-
stance, towards payment of the debt of the former " State Ma-
rine Hospital ; " and after that debt was satisfied, to be set aside
as a building fund.

In the following year, the Legislature passed an act materi-
ally modifying the arrangements regarding this hospital and its
revenues, which will be noticed under its proper date. As the
acts particularly above mentioned, and those passed in the ses-
sion of 1851, form the foundation of the subsequent legislation
on the subject, we have thought fit to notice them in this place
at some length.

May 4th. — Act passed by the Legislature authorizing the
conversion of the floating debt of the County of San Francisco, to
an amount not exceeding $400,000, into a seven per cent, stock.
The interest of this funded debt is payable half yearly, and the
principal is to be redeemed within ten years after the 1st day of
July, 1852. Commissioners were appointed under this act to
carry out its purposes, who should hold office until the first day
of July, 1853, after which date the board of supervisors of the
county should enter upon the farther management of the matters
in question. Particular provisions are set forth in the act re-
specting the raising of the annual interest becoming due upon
the debt, and for the formation of a sinking fund to redeem the
principal.

This day was the anniversary of the second and the fifth great
fires. Considerable apprehension was entertained that some at-
tempts would be made to set the city in flames about this time.
The difierent fire companies were therefore on the alert, and took
every precaution to provide against the dreaded danger. The
men remained in close attendance both day and night, and had
all their engines and tackle in instant working order. About ten
o'clock at night, on the 4th, the fire-bell was heard loudly boom-
ing, and with wonderful speed, " like greyhounds from the shps,"
the firemen hurried to the quarter announced. This proved a

390 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

false alarm ; but the circumstance showed the efficiency of the
fire-oro-anization. The citizens had now some confidence in it,
and a strong feeling of security that no conflagration on the scale
of the former great ones would ever again happen.

The Vigilance Committee, which in the early part of this
year had held several meetings, both of the executive committee
and the general body of members, were again stirring at this
time. A common impression existed that there was still an or-
ganized band of thieves and incendiaries within the city. So the
executive committee recommended the general members to organ-
ize themselves into a " night patrol," while they took such other
measures as were adequate to meet the emergency. Although
this famous association had done many confessedly illegal acts,
yet the tendency of these had been so good, and they seemed so
justifiable in the terrible circumstances of the time, that the peo-
ple were led to trust implicitly to their unwearied vigilance and
decisive action, and could now lie down to rest at nights without
feeling the old constant dread of having their houses robbed or
burned before morning.

CHAPTER XXL
1852.

Clipper Ships. — Enormons Taxation. — Purchase of the Jenny Lind Theatre by the Common CounclL
— Times and Transcript removes to San Francisco. — Fourth of July celebration. — Great scarcity
of printing paper. — Duel between Hon. Edward Gilbert and General Denver. — Custom of Duel-
ling. — Funeral ceremonies on occasion of the death of Henry Clay.

JuxE. — It appears ftom records kept by the late harbor master,
Captain King, that seventy-four vessels claiming and entitled to
be called " clipper ships," and averaging rather more than 1000
tons burden, had arrived in the port of San Francisco during the
last three years. These records commence ^\ith the well known
brig Col. Fremont, in May, 1849, and include the Aramingo,
which arrived in May, 1852. The average passage was one hun-
dred and twenty-five days. Some of the fleet, however, made
much more speedy voyages. The Flying Cloud, which arrived
in August, 1851, performed the distance from New York in
eighty-nine days. The Sword Fish, also from New York, ar-
rived in February, 1852, after a passage of ninety days. The
Surprise, arriving in March, 1851, the Sea Witch, in July, 1850,
— both from New York, — and the Flying Fish, in February,
1852, from Boston, respectively accomplished the voyage in nine-
ty-six, ninety-seven, and ninety-eight days.

The " clipper ship " is virtually the creation of San Francisco.
The necessity of bearing merchandise as speedily as possible to so
distant a market, one too which was so liable to be suddenly
overstocked by goods, early forced merchants and ship-builders
interested in the California trade to invent new and superior mo-
dels of vessels. Hence the modern clipper with her great length,
sharp lines of entrance and clearance, and flat bottom. These
magnificent vessels now perform the longest regular voyage
known in commerce, running along both coasts of the Americas,

392

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

in about four months ; while the ordinary, ships of older models
used to take seven and eight months to accomplish the same dis-
tance. The contrast is very striking between the short, clumsy
vessels, of a few hundred tons burden, which brought the early
European navigators to the coast of California, and the large and
beautifully lined marine palaces, often of two thousand tons, that

Clipper Ship.

are now continually gliding through the Golden Gate. These
are like the white-winged masses of cloud that majestically soar
upon the summer breeze. In another part of this work we have
given an illustration of the galleon, or sea-going armed merchant-
man of Drake's day ; here we lay before the reader a representa-
tion of one of the finest modern California traders, a clipper ship
bound for San Francisco. While these noble vessels have revolu-
tionized, in every maritime country, the model and style of long-
voyage ships, they have also introduced a much happier marine
nomenclature. The old-fashioned, humdrum Julias and 3Iary
Anns, the Trusties and Actives are fast disappearing. The very
names of our modern clippers have poetry and music in them,
and convey a wonderful sense of swiftness. They confer even
dignity on the dry details of the " marine reporter," where the
simple words sliine like golden particles in the Californian miner's
sands.

ENORMOUS TAXATION. 393

Scan Francisco was certainly a wealthy city, yet the amount
of taxation laid upon it was enormous. We give here some sta-
tistics taken from official documents, showing the amount of cash
which had been paid by the citizens during the year previous to
this date,

DIRECT TAXES.

Amount collected from City Licenses, from June 1st, 1851,

to May 31st, 1852, $275,873 14

Amount collected from City Taxes, between said dates, 202,665 23

$538,538 37
Amount collected from State and County Taxes, from May

18th, 1851, to May 18th, 1852, $231,348 85

Amount of direct taxes paid by the people of San Francisco

during the past year, $769,887 22

INDIRECT TAXES.

Duties collected at the Custom House for six months, ending

Dec. 31st, 1851, $1,012,128 94

Duties collected for three months, ending March 31st, 1852, .... 450,041 50

" for the fourth quarter (estimated,) 484,056 81

For the year ending June 30th, 1852, $1,946,227 25

Direct Taxes, as above. 769,887 22

Amount in cash actually contributed by San Francisco for sup-
port of City, State, County and National Governments
for one year, $2,716,114 47

These statistics show only the amount actually paid ; but
there were arrears of direct taxes which would certainly be recov-
ered (since they were secured upon property), and which would
swell the amount chargeable on the year to $1,053,773. Adding
the last sum to the amount of custom-house duties, it will be
seen that about three milhons of dollars were drawn, as taxes,
from San Francisco in one year. If the population be estimated
at 30,000, this would show that the amount of local direct taxa-
tion was about $35 per head. In regard to the goods paying
custom-house duties, it will be borne in mind that a fair propor-
tion of the necessaries, and at least one-half of the luxuries used
in the State were consumed in tliis city. If we estimate there-
fore the population of the former at quarter of a million, it may
be supposed that the sum of, at least, $300,000 was actually con-

394 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

tributed in indirect taxation by the inhabitants of the latter. This
is at the rate of $10 per head. Add this to the sum of $35
above mentioned ; and it appears that the total amount of direct
and indirect taxation for a single year upon each inhabitant,
male or female, infant or adult, of San Francisco, was $45. This
is an amount of taxation which few cities or countries can show.
But besides these sums, the holders of city real estate were as-
sessed in two-thirds of the expense of grading and planking the
streets opposite their properties ; while the general citizens volun-
tarily incurred a vast amount of additional expense, in the ap-
pointment of special police to guard particular localities^ in the
gratuitous services of hremen, in lighting, watering, cleansing and
repairing the public streets, in opening drains and sewers, and in
many other ways, the duty of attending to which naturally falls,
in the cities of other lands, upon the municijial authorities.

June 4th. — We have already had occasion to mention the
unexpected manner in which the common council existing at
this time managed to get into office. They never enjoyed the
confidence of the people, by whom in reality they were not chosen.
Perhaps on that very account, they were the more determined to
neglect the public interests and attend solely to their own. Had
Mayor Harris not continually been a thorn in their side, much
additional mischief would have been perpetrated. Though this
gentleman was on their ticket, and came into office in the same
doubtful manner with themselves, there existed a marked differ-
ence in their public acts. Dr. Harris was a man of undoubted
personal integrity, and possessed in a high degree the confidence
and esteem of the citizens. By his care and faithfulness, the city
was saved from many heavy burdens that would recklessly have
been laid upon it by the common council of this year. One noted
instance was his refusal to approve of the aldermen's ordinance
accepting the terms of the act of the Legislature which relin-
quished the State claiins to the water lots, upon the city recog-
nizing and confirming certain of the old obnoxious " Cotton
Grants."

The purchase of the new Jenny Lind Theatre and Parker House
for the purposes of a City Hall was another of the common coun-
cil jobs which excited very much angry discussion at the time.

PURCHASE OF THE JENNY LIND THEATRE. 395

and which afforded interesting and amusing "matter" for the
newspapers — (the "Jenny Lind Swindle," or sometimes " Juggle/'
they facetiously called it), — during half a year. The old City
Hall having been destroyed in the fire of 22d June, 1851, the
various municipal officials were compelled to get business cham-
bers where they could, for which very high rents had to be paid.
As the different public offices were now located in separate parts
of the town, much inconvenience was experienced. This arrange-
ment could only be temporary. The rents, which were somewhere
about forty thousand dollars per annum, formed a heavy tax upon
the public ; while ground could be bought and a proper building
erected by the city itself for about four or five times that amount.
Several desirable sites could be had in the town on moderate
terms, and responsible contractors were ready to undertake the
construction of the proposed building at fixed rates, which would
certainly have reduced the total cost below two hundred thousand
dollars. In these circumstances, the common council, for rea-
sons, ,as the saying is, best known to themselves, and in spite of
the indignant cries of the citizens, and the general remonstrances
of the press, determined, — in conjunction with the board of super-
visors of the county, who were to pay half the cost, — to purchase
the Jenny Lind Theatre, and convert it into the proposed City
Hall. The purchase-money of the building as it stood was to be
$200,000 ; wdiile to remove all the inside walls, leaving only the
outer ones standing, and to build up the interior anew, projierly
fitted up for municipal purposes, was believed to involve the ex-
penditure of nearly half as much more. At the same time, it was
supposed that the building when so altered would be only a mis-
erable structure at the best. An ordinance authorizing the pur-
chase was passed by large majorities in both council l)oards, and
sent to the mayor for approval, which was refused. Notwith-
standing, the common council, on the 4th June, re-adopted the
obnoxious ordinance, and passed it by a constitutional and almost
unanimous vote.

Meanwhile, the public wrath was growing very clamorous, the
more so perhaps that it was impotent. On the evening of the 1st
of June, one of the usual mass and indignation meetings was held
on the plaza, where the proposed purchase was passionately de-

396 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

nounced. Mr. William A. Dana presided on the occasion. This
was one of the most stormy meetings that had ever been held in
the city. Hon. David 0. Broderick, who was in favor of the pro-
posed purchase, attempted to make a speech for his cause, hut
the noise and reproaches of the meeting effectually put him down.
Sundry squabbling and wordy sparring took place between Mr.
Broderick and Dr. J. H. Gihon, who was on this occasion the
peoj^le's orator ; and the meeting ended in hubbub, riot and con-
fusion. Little cared the common council for such proceedings —
the general ire — the mayor's veto — the denunciations and ridicule
of the press. The matter was carried, finally into the Supreme
Court, at the instance of some public-spirited citizens, and shortly
afterwards a judgment was obtained recognizing the right of the
city and the board of supervisors to make the purchase. This
was forthwith done ; and the contemplated alterations were sj^eed-
ily made on the building, although at a great expense. The
whole affair was long a prolific subject for conversation and discus-
sion, for ridicule and the imputation of corrupt motives. It serv-
ed to glorify the council of this year, as the notorious aldermen's
salaries and medal pieces of business had immortalized a previous
party of " city s^ep-fathers."

After the purchase was made and the alterations were comple-
ted, it was found that the new structure answered the purposes in-
tended better than was at first anticipated. The situation is ex-
cellent. At the present time, however (1854), it is beginning
to be discovered that the building is too small for the increased
business of the city. Movements are now making to purchase
additional business chambers elsewhere, or to include a portion of
the adjoining Union Hotel into the municipal establishment.
Doubtless, before many years pass, the whole of either that build-
ing, or of the El Dorado gambling-saloon on the other side, if not
both, wdll be required for the necessary extension of the City Hall,
unless indeed it be located in some altogether different quarter,
and built anew.

June 28th.— The "Placer Times and Transcript," transfer-
red from Sacramento, is first published in San Francisco, under
the management of Messrs. Fitch, Pickering & Lawrence.

July 5th. — "Independence-day" falling upon Sunday, was

DEATH OF HON, EDWARD GILBERT. 397

celebrated the next day. This national festival has always been
a grand affair in San Francisco ; and on this occasion the citizens
exceeded all their former efforts. Prominent in the procession
of the day were large bands of foreigners, particularly of the French
and the Chinese. The latter displayed numerous fanciful flags
and specimens of the finest workmanship of their people. Their
gongs, cymbals, wooden bowls or drums, and strange stringed in-
struments, made the air hideous with diabolical sounds. One
wagon was filled with several Chinamen richly and showily dress-
ed, who occupied themselves in continually firing off their nation-
al crackers. In the evening there was a brilliant display of
fireworks on the plaza, where some fifteen thousand of the inhab-
itants had assembled to witness the exhibition.

July 11th. — The Herald newspaper is printed on coarse brown
paper, such as is commonly used for envelopes and for wrapping
packages. About this period, and during some months following,
all the newspapers of the city were reduced to the same or to even
worse descriptions of paper. Day by day, the old broad sheets
were becoming narrower and coarser, while they assumed every
color of the rainbow. The Alta for a long time was published on
a small double sheet (which, however, was of a pretty fine quali-
ty), where the typographical matter on a page measured only
about fourteen inches in length by ten in breadth. The market
had suddenly and unexpectedly happened to be without supplies
of proper printing paper ; and many months elajjsed before a suf-
ficient stock could be procured. Of course prices of the material
rose enormously,

August 2d. — A duel took place this day between the Hon.
Edward Gilbert, senior editor of the Alta California and ex-repre-
sentative of the State in the Lower House of Congress, and Gren-
eral J. W. Denver, State Senator from Trinity County, Gen.
Denver having taken personal offence at certain observations which
had appeared in the " Alta California," regarding Governor Big-
ler's government, published a letter, in which he animadverted
strongly on the terms of these observations, and talked of the wri-
ter in objectionable language. Mr. Gilbert, the author of the
original obnoxious articles, considered the general's letter unjust
and ofiensive to himself, and thereupon challenged that gentleman.

398 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

A hostile interview accordingly took place at Oak Grove, near
Sacramento. The weapons were rifles, and the distance forty
paces. General Denver, it was said, possessed an unerring aim,
while Mr. Gilbert scarcely knew how to hold his piece. At the
first interchange of shots, the general fired deliberately aside ;
while Mr. Gilbert missed. The challenger, or his second, insisted
on the fight being continued, more especially, perhaps, because
the former had been recently in the habit of ridiculing bloodless
duels. His antagonist now considered that it was time for him
to protect himself; and, at the next shot, sent his ball through
Mr. Gilbert's body. The wounded man never spoke again, and
in a few minutes expired. This termination of the duel excited
great regret in San Francisco, where Mr. Gilbert had been much
esteemed. A numerous company of the citizens assembled to
pay the last respects to his remains, public institutions jiassed
resolutions to the honor of the deceased, the shipping hung
their flags at half mast, many public buildings and private houses
were decorated with mourning draperies, and the newspapers ap-
peared with black lines down their columns.

The custom of fighting duels was at the period of which we
write, as it at present is, deplorably common among the higher
class of people of San Francisco. These encounters are generally
conducted in a manner which must appear somewhat strange to
the natives of other civilized countries. There is little delicate
privacy observed on the occasion. On the contrary, the parties,
or their immediate friends, invite all their acquaintances, who
invite others to go and witness the proposed engagement. It is
sometimes announced the day before in the newspapers — time,
place, parties, weapons, and every particular of the ceremony being
faithfully given. That no price is mentioned for the sight, seems
the only thing that distinguishes the entertainment from a bull
or bear fight. If two notable characters be announced to perform
a duel, say at the mission, half the city flocks to the place, and,
of course, the spectators are much disappointed should nobody be
slain. If the bloody entertainment be advertised to " come off,"
say at Benicia or somewhere in Contra Costa, the steamers of the
eventful morning are densely packed with those who prefer the
excitement of a gladiatorial show to the dull pursuit of business, or

CUSTOM OF DUELLING, 399

loafing about the streets. The favorite weapons are navy revol-
vers. The antagonists stand back to back, walk five paces, turn
suddenly round, and fire away at their leisure, till one or both are
wounded or slain, or the barrels are all discharged. Sometimes
rifles are preferred. With these deadly instruments many men
can lodge the ball within a hair's breadth of a given mark at forty
paces ofi*, which is the usual distance between the parties in a duel
of this description.

We intended to have made Mr. Gilbert's death a text, not
only for enlarging upon the usual savage and public nature of
the numerous duels which take place here, but also for some
remarks upon the general carelessness of life among the people,
and the frequency of sudden personal quarrels, when revolvers,
bowie-knives and " slung shots " are unhesitatingly made use of
But we have at so many other places in this work had occasion
to allude to these every-day characteristics of the inhabitants,
that little more need be said here on the subject. In the earlier
years, — that is, in 1849 and 1850, — fatal affrays were of very fre-
quent occurrence in the streets, and in every place of public
amusement. In the gambling saloons, pistols, loaded with ball,
would every night be discharged by some hot-headed, revengeful,
or drunken fellows. The crowd around Avere always liable to be
wounded, if not killed, but notwithstanding, play at every table
went briskly on, as if no danger of the kind existed, A momen-
tary confusion and surprise might take place if anybody happened
to be murdered in the room ; but soon the excitement died away.
Similar events often occurred at the bar, or on the steps of a
hotel, in a low dance or drinking-house, or in the open street, and
nobody was much surprised, though some of the parties were
severely wounded or killed outright. It was their " destiny," or
their " luck." Since the years last mentioned, quarrels of this
description have become less common, though they are still nume-
rous. There is a sad recklessness of conduct and carelessness of
life among the people of California ; and nearly all the inhabi-
tants of San Francisco, whatever be their native country, or their
original pacific disposition, share in the same hasty, wild charac-
ter and feeling. The circumstances of the time, the place and
people, soon create the necessity in the latest immigrant of think-

400 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

ino- and acting like the older residents on this subject. It has
always been a practice with a large proportion of the citizens, to
carry loaded fire-arms or other deadly weapons concealed about
their persons, this being, as it were, a part of their ordinary dress ;
while occasionally the rest of the inhabitants are compelled also
to arm themselves like their neighbors. Of course, these arms
are intended for defence against attacks by robbers, as well as to
be used, when necessary, against those who would merely assault
the person without meaning to steal. Such weapons are not
generally produced, except in cases of extremity, or the place
would soon be made desolate ; while sometimes the fear of pro-
voking their use, may keep the rowdy and the insolent rascal
quiet. Yet the unhappy possession of these fatal instruments
often gives rise, on occasions of sudden passion, to many lamenta-
ble consequences.

August 10th. — Funeral solemnities, on a great scale, took
place this day, in commemoration of the death of Henry Clay.
On this occasion political parties of all principles, the difierent
associated bodies, native Americans and foreigners of every nation
— ^in short, the whole inhabitants united to pay homage and re-
spect to the memory of the celebrated statesman. The proces-
sion was the largest assemblage of respectable people ever seen
in the city, and was distinguished as much for the evident heart-
felt sorrow in the mourners, as for the pomp and melancholy
splendor of the slow-moving train, which extended about a mile
in length. The Merchants' Exchange, the Custom House, El
Dorado, Bella Union, City Hall, Marshal's Office, and in fact
all the public buildings and many private houses were clothed in
black draperies, as if the very stones were to bewail the loss of a
great man. The whole of Montgomery street was hung in black,
the sombre-looking folds of the cloth being relieved at places by
wreaths and ornaments of white. Portions of every other main
street were decorated in the same elaborate and perhaps over-
fanciful manner. The various engine houses were likewise suit-
ably arrayed. While the insensate walls thus wore the aspect of
universal gloom, the people themselves were dressed according to
the solemnity and grandeur of the occasion — the natives of every
land appearing in the recognized national costume that expressed

HENRY CLAY FUNERAL CEREMONIES. 401

the deepest grief and mourning in the wearer. The tolling of
great bells, the measured boom of the bass drum and the swelling
wail of wind instruments turned the hearts of the people heavy
and sorrowful. A hundred low- hung flags drooped over the city,
and numerous bands of music played dead marches. If mechan-
ical means could inspire or strengthen genuine sorrow, it was so
on this occasion. The procession moved through the principal
"streets till it reached the plaza. There, the orator of the day,
Judge Hoffman, delivered an appropriate and eloquent address.
The dead no longer heard his praises chanted ; but the memory
of his deeds, his fiery eloquence, and the numberless benefits con-
ferred on his country and on the world, by the famous orator and
statesman, will long gratefully fill the minds of American citizens.
The occasion was worthy of a grand display ; and it was
admitted by everybody, that the procession, the ceremonies and
general mourning, were of the most novel, imposing, and splendid
description that had ever been witnessed in San Francisco.

-J

CHAPTER XXII.
1852.

Australian gold mines. — Restlessness of miners. — Many who emigrated to Australia return to Cali-
fornia.— Superior advantages of the latter place. — Second city directory published. — California
Telegraph Company. — General election. — Fire In Sacramento city. — Another fire in San Francis-
co. — Intelligence received of the death of Daniel Webster. — Falling of the waters of Lake La
Mercede. — Another city directory. — Firemen's election. — Legal execution of Jos6 Forni. — De-
structive storm.

September. — For some time back a large number of vessels had
left San Francisco with adventurers to the Australian gold mines,
while now other vessels were bringing many of the same parties
back again. A short notice on this subject may not be out of
place.

Gold is perhaps the most extensively diffused metal in the
world, although it is commonly found in very small particles.
Every land is historically known to have had its auriferous dis-
trict. California, however, stood alone in this respect, so far as
it yielded large quantities of the precious metal, procured with
less labor than any other country. Its gold possessions had already
drawn upon it a vast population, who came hither hastily to
■coUect the sparkling treasure, and then leave. The miners gen-
erally never contemplated a permanent residence in the countr}^
When they had raised their " pile," they hurried home — to the
wives and families or the friends they had left in the Atlantic
States or in Europe. So long as they remained in California, they
were not closely attached to any one gold-bearing district, however
rich it might be. More often, they were incessantly moving
about and prospecting, hoping and looking for new and richer
claims. When a particularly valuable district happened to be
■discovered, then a " rush " to it took place from all the neighbor-
ing regions, and even from places hundreds of miles distant.

AUSTRALIAN GOLD MINES. 403

Tills restlessness has always been a peculiar feature in the char-
acter of the miner, who is naturally speculative. He works hard
— ^harder than an Irish laborer or an English " navvie," for per-
haps one month — then he grows weary and discontented with his
trifling gains, and wanders about for as long a period prospecting,
poking into every odd crevice in likely rocks, sinking pits here
and there, and trying the sandy bed of every stream he may see
in his rambles, wistfully hoping, though seldom finding, some
rich secret deposit that will repay his previous fruitless labor.
When his means of living without immediately profitable and
earnest work are nearly exhausted, he gets tired of this new
occupation, and a supposed good claim may perhaps also be
found. Then the digger sets vigorously to work once more, for
another month or two, until new ennui and restlessness force
him to go on the tramp again, and look about for the fanciful
great gains that can alone satisfy his hopes. He chases the rain-
bow to find its base. The gold miner, like man in the abstract,
" never is, but always to be blest." His business is closely alHed
to gambling, with its rare chances of suddenly making a great
fortune, or of losing time and labor, which make his capital.

While the miner grew thus restless, and was attracted to new
placers upon the least rumor of their fancied superiority, and when
idle tales arose and were circulated by the weak, indolent or un-
lucky, that all the best fields had already been gleaned of their
rich harvest, he was naturally prepared to go farther, and to seek
in other lands the wealth which he had happened somehow to
miss in California. It mattered little in what place or country
he made his " pile," so that it was found. The discovery of gold
in Australia, nearly a year and a half ago, had produced in that
country, and subsequently over a great part of the world, a repe-
tition of the troublous scenes which had occurred immediately
after the discovery of gold in California. When, therefore, in-
telligence of the great quantities of the precious metal which
were being found in Australia reached San Francisco, and subse-
quently the mining regions of California, great excitement was
produced over all the country. Successive reports confirmed the
first astonishing yields. Eich as the Californian placers had been
esteemed, the Australian diggings appeared much to exceed them

404

ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

m that respect. A good story by travelling loses nothing of tlie
marvellous. The first wonderful tidings of the Sydney diggings

including the notable hundred-weight of pure gold, were almost

foro-otten, when later intelligence came of the newer gold fields
of Victoria — of the famous Mount Alexander region, and its dis-
tricts • Forest Creek. Friar's Creek and the rest, and also of the

Scene in the gold mines.

renowned Ballarat and Bendigo. Large numbers of the migra-
tory and discontented miners in California now hurried to San
Francisco, to depart for the newer and perhaps true Dorado, just
discovered in Australia. Many adventurers from the city joined
these emigrants, and set sail for Sidney and Melbourne. At the
same time, great numbers of Australians, who had come to Cali-
fornia after 1848, now took the opportunity of returning to their
original homes. Some of these had wrought patiently at the
mines, or lived as good citizens in various parts of the country,
while others had long been the disgrace and terror of the commu-

AUSTRALIAN GOLD MINES. 405

nity. The " Vigilance Committee " of San Francisco, and similar
associated bodies that had been formed in other towns of Califor-
nia, had already driven the worst of the last class of Australians
away. The news of the gold discoveries in their own country,
speedily carried off the rest. The migration from California at
this period was therefore not an unmingled evil, although its own
mines wanted every hand that could dig a hole or feed a long-tom.
After a time, most of the Californians in Australia grew sick
of their new country. They had perhaps found the auriferous
earth in general rather richer than what it was in California ;
but not so rich as their brilliant hopes had pictured it. At the
same time, since the gold happened in general to be buried much
deeper in the ground, the labor of extracting it was greater, while
the water for washing purposes was often lamentably deficient.
Then there was the moral contamination of working beside the
convicts of Van Dieman's Land and New South Wales, the un-
healthiness of the mining country, the scarcity of proper water to
drink, the privations from want of food and severity of the
weather, and excessively severe labor. The Californians were
farther disgusted by the imposition of a tax of seven and a half
dollars per month, laid by the government upon all miners for
license to work, as well as by the occasional outbreaks of national
jealousy, and disputes between themselves and British subjects.
On the whole, therefore, the Americans were glad to leave the
country to its first inhabitants and their coming brethren from
England ; and so soon as the former contrived to gather the pe-
cuniary means, and had the opportunity, they hastened back to
their old quarters in CaHfornia, now doubly endeared to them by
their luckless absence. The reports brought by these returned
emigrants before long satisfied the wavering and adventurous,
that no special benefit was to be obtained by any American in
leaving the rich mines of his own country for those, however pro-
mising they might appear, of another. On the contrary, all he
could look for were many additional hardships, physical and
moral, and severe labor ill-requited. Of late, accordingly, com-
paratively few adventurers have sailed from San Francisco for the
Austrahan gold fields. This is well for California. It may just
also, while on this subject, be said in passing, that othe7' labor in

406 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

Australia— from that of the mdest workman to that of the high-
est skilled mechanic— is only paid about one-half the rates which
it commands, has always received, and probably for many years
to come will continue to receive in California. Let interested
people say what they will, there is no land so well fitted for the
comfortable residence of the poor and industrious man as Califor-
nia. Soil, climate, wages, and pohtical, religious and domestic
institutions here make his position more ennobling and agreeable
than he can expect or possibly find in any other country.

This month the second (wrongfully said in the preface to be
the first,) San Francisco " City Directory " was pubhshed by A.
W. Moro-an & Co. It was a well printed, thin octavo, of one
hundred and twenty-five pages. The names were not more in
number than what C. P. Kimball's Directory of 1850 contained,
These, however, in Morgan's book were stated both alphabetically
and classified into trades and professions. Some useful general
information was also given in an appendix.

OcTOBEK 22d. — A city ordinance was passed and approved
of, granting a right of way to the " Cahfornia Telegraph Compa-
ny." Some time elapsed before the company could erect posts
and extend the wires through the State ; and it was only late in
the following year that they got into working order. By means
of this telegraph, San Francisco was brought into instant com-
munication with San Jose, Stockton, Sacramento, Maiysville,
and other towns in the interior.

November 2d. — Election of State, county and city officials,
as well as others for the United States. The county and city re-
turns were as follows : —

Senate. — John N. Baird, John S. Hager.
Assembly. — Samuel Flower, John Sime, Frederick A. Snyder, George H.
Blake, James M. Taylor, Isaac N. Cordoza, Elcan Heydenfeldt.
County Surveyor. — W. P. Hiunphreys.
Public Administrator. — David T. Bagley.
District Judge. — Delos Lake.

Mayor. — C. J. Brenham.
City Marsnal. — R. G. Crozier. Recorder. — George W. Baker.

Comptroller. — R. Matheson. Street Commissioner. — Wm. Divier.

Ta.v Collector. — Lewis Teal. Treasurer. — Hamilton Bowie.

Harbor Master. — W. T. Thompson. City Attorney. — John K. Hackett.
City Assessors. — jM. D. Eyre, J. L. Anderson, J. O'Callahan.

FIRES IN SACRAMENTO AND SAN FRANCISCO. 407

Aldermen.

J. P. Flint, W. A. Dana, T. H. Selby, Geo. K. Gluyas,

J. P. Haven, C. L. Case, A. J. Bowie, E. J. Moore.

Assistant Aldermen.

H. N. Squier, H. E. Haste, James De Long, J. B. Piper,
W. H. Boyee, G. W. Bryant, Edward Byrne, Thomas Hayes.

November 2d and 3d. — Great fire at the city of Sacramento,
by which nearly two thousand buildings were destroyed. The
conflagration extended over fifty-five blocks, and deprived seven
thousand people of their usual homes. The value of the build-
ings and goods destroyed was difierently estimated at from five
to ten millions of dollars. Much distress was suffered by the in-
habitants on this lamentable occasion. The people of San Fran-
cisco, bearing in mind their own great fixes, and the loss and
misery these had caused, held pubhc meetings, at this time, to
express sympathy and to devise measures for relieving their suf-
fering brethren. A sum of sixteen thousand dollars was imme-
diately collected and remitted to Sacramento for the general
rehef of those who had been burned out. Other subscriptions
swelled the amount to thirty thousand dollars. Many medical
gentlemen offered their gratuitous professional services, while the
steamers bore suppHes thither free of freight. Signora Biscacci-
anti, who had recently been performing in San Francisco, gene-
rously offered to give a concert for the benefit of the sufferers.
This was largely attended, and realized the sum of seven hundred
dollars, which was paid into the relief fund. Other public per-
formers gave benefits for the sufferers at Sacramento.

November 9th. — While the people of San Francisco were
thus nobly sympathizing with the losses of others, fire again
broke out among themselves. The flames were first noticed
about half-past eight o'clock on the evening of this day, in a
wooden building at the corner of Merchant and Kearny streets.
The fire companies speedily turned out, and succeeded after
working vigorously, though under difficult circumstances, for
about an hour and a half, in subduing the conflagration; al-
though not before thirty-two buildings, all of which, excepting
one or two, were of wood, had been consumed in Merchant and

408 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

Clay streets. Among these was the Union Hotel. The loss was
estimated at about $100,000. The new supposed fire-proof walls
were severely tested on this occasion. The substantial masses of
the City Hall on one side, the California Exchange on another,
and on the east the brick bmlding that faced Montgomery street,
effectually prevented the flames from spreading beyond them.

This month was a disastrous one to many places in the State..
Not only had Sacramento been nearly altogether destroyed, whDe
San Francisco had sustained much loss, but Marysville, San Die-
go, and other towns and agricultural districts had been severely
8couro-ed by fire. It was estimated that the total losses which
had fallen on the State from fire alone during the previous three
years amounted to sixty-six millions of dollars.

November 21st. — Intelligence received of the death of
Daniel Webster. The flags of the shipping, and others on shore,
were hung at half mast, minute guns were tired during the day,
and the city generally presented the appearance of sincere mourn-
ing for the loss of a " leader in Israel." The common council
passed resolutions of honor to the deceased statesman ; and it
was afterwards proposed by the boards of aldermen that funeral
solemnities on a great scale should be performed by the city, as
had recently been done in the case of the death of Henry Clay.
This proposal, however, through motives of economy, and partly
perhaps on account of the rainy season having commenced, was
ultimately negatived. It mattered naught to the illustrious
dead. His fame here will live for ever, as on the Atlantic shore.
November 23d. — The waters of Lake La Mercede, in the
vicinity of the city, and which cover several hundred acres, sank
about thirty feet. Shortly before midnight of this day, a shock
hke that of an earthquake was felt by parties residing near the
place ; and the following morning it was discovered that a great
channel between the lake and the sea had been opened, through
a broad and high sand bank, during the night, by which the
waters had found a way and been discharged. It was supposed
by some, either that the bed of the lake had been suddenly up-
lifted, by volcanic agency, whereby the raised waters scooped
through the yielding bank the channel just mentioned, and that
afterwards the bed of the lake had fallen to its former level, or

EXECUTION OF JOSE FORNI. 409

else that a great sinking of the bank itself had taken place (sup-
posed to have been produced by subterranean causes), owing to
which depression, the water had been drawn off to the extent
mentioned. The most probable conjecture is, that the excessive
rains of the season had simply forced open a passage through the
broad and loose sand-bank from the lake to the ocean. Formerly
the lake had no visible outlet whatever ; and its waters had in-
sensibly been kept about the same level by means of evaporation,
or by concealed underground communications with the sea.

December. — "City Directories" seem to be lucrative proper-
ties. We have already noticed that of A. W. Morgan & Co.,
which appeared in September of this year. Another was pub-
lished this month by James A. Parker. Tliis was a much supe-
rior publication to either Kimball's or Morgan's. It was an oc-
tavo volume of one hundred and forty-six pages, and was well
printed. The names were about nine thousand in number, being
considerably more than double those contained in either of its
forerunners. There was prefixed a creditable sketch of the rise
and progress of the city, and the volume contained an appendix
of miscellaneous useful information. Such publications in every
place become curious and interesting after the lapse of a few
years. Especially this will be the case in a rapidly increasing
community like San Francisco. To the patient student of the
social and personal, as well as the material history of our city,
and to the future antiquarian, these little works will be inesti-
mable.

December 6th. — The election for chief and assistant engi-
neers to the firemen is yearly becoming of more importance.
That spirited body of men, who, without fee or reward, save the
gratitude of the people, are ever ready to peril life and limb to
save the persons and properties of the citizens, had become a
numerous and influential association. Their annual election of
oflfi.cers took place this day, when George H. Hossefros was chosen
chief engineer, and Charles P. Duane, A. E. Simons, and Edward
A. Ebbets, assistant engineers.

December 10th. — Jose Forni — or Forner, as he described
himself in his first confession — a Spaniard, was hanged upon
Russian Hill, for the murder of Jose Eodriguez, a Mexican, in

410 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

Happy Valley. This was the only legal execution that had taken
place in San Francisco, where so many crimes deserving the pun-
ishment of death had been committed. The prisoner confessed
having killed the deceased, but to the last maintained that the
act was done only in self-defence. This, however, was not esta-
blished by evidence. The gallows had been originally erected
upon the summit of the hill ; but just before the execution, it
was removed about one hundred yards towards the west, so that
it was not visible from the principal portions of the city. A very
laro-e crowd, — variously estimated at from six to ten thousand
people, — gathered round the place of execution, at least one-
fourth of whom seemed to be youths, women and children.

December 17th. — A furious gale from the S. S. E., accom-
panied by excessive rains. Considerable damage was sustained
by some of the more slimly constructed houses, while the shipping
suffered severely. The losses of both were estimated at $200,000.
Early in the previous month, a severe "Norther" had threatened
much damage to the shipping, and carried away the outer por-
tion of one of the smaller wharves. The want of docks, or of
breakwaters, upon the north and south sides of the harbor, is felt
more and more as the old sheltered cove gets gradually covered
with streets and houses by the extension of the water front of the
town.

The storm, first above noticed, seriously affected the rivers of
the interior, which rose to an unusual height, and inundated
most of the towns on their banks. The levee at Sacramento
was burst through by the pressure of the flood, and nearly the
whole of that unfortunate city, which so recently had been half
destroyed by fire, was submerged to a depth of from five to ten
feet. Marysville and Stockton were equally flooded. Many sub-
stantially built houses were undermined at all these places by
the waters, and fell ; whereby much valuable property was de-
stroyed. All communication was cut off from the mining quar-
ters, and great distress was suffered there by the enormous prices
of provisions, particularly of flour, and the difficulty, or impossi-
bihty of keeping open a connection with the towns for supplies.

CHAPTER XXIII.
1852.

Increase of population. — Mixed character of the immigrants. — Chinese, Peruvians, Chilenos, and other
foreigners, notoriously vicious. — Sufferings of the overland immigrants. — Greater attention paid
to agricultural pursuits. — City improvements still progressing. — Great fires no longer possible. —
Fire insurance agencies established. — Manufactories. — New gold discoveries. — Emigration U<
Australia. — Merchandise and provisions commanding high prices. — The clipper ships. — Filthy
condition of the streets. — Great abundance of rats. — The city extension, bay, and shipping. — The
strong winds preventive of disease. — Peculations of officials. — San Francisco only suitable for
the industrious. — The city growing in importance. — Change of inhabitants. — ^Fascinations of San
Francisco life. — Eeflections concerning the moral condition of the city.

The population of both the State and city was largely increased
in 1852. The departures by sea from San Francisco were only
23,196, while there were 66,988 arrivals. This immigration was
about double the amount that had taken place in 1851. The
immigrants from the Atlantic States generally crossed the Isth-
mus, while the greater number of European foreigners came
round Cape Horn. The Germans, a most valuable and indus-
trious class of men, and the French, perhaps by nature not
quite so steady and hard-worldng a race, though still a useful
body of citizens, were year by year arriving in large numbers,
and were readily remarked among the motley population. The
most untutored eye could distinguish and contrast the natural
phlegm and common-sense philosophy of the fat Teuton, and the
"lean and hungry look" and restless gestures of the Celt. Both
races were generally "bearded like the pard," though in this
respect they were only like the commonalty of San Francisco,
who pride themselves much upon hair. The people named cher-
ished many of their old nationalities, and generally frequented
their own particular boarding and eating houses and places of
recreation. The Engli'Sh, Scotch and Irish immigrants, were
also numerous, but their characteristics, although something dif-

412 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

ferent, were less distinguishable from those of native Americans
than were the manners and customs of other foreignei-s. Besides
these, there were always arriving numerous specimens of most
other European nations,— Spaniards, Portuguese, Italians, Swiss,
Greeks, Hungarians, Poles, Kussians, Prussians, Dutch, Swedes,
Danes, Turks, too — all visited California. Many of them went
to the mines, although a considerable proportion never left San
Francisco. The country and city were wide enough to hold
them all, and rich enough to give them all a moderate independ-
ence in the course of a few years. A considerable number of
German and French women were constantly arriving, as also
many more of the sex from the Atlantic States. The female
part of the population, though still numerically very far below
the male portion, was increasing, perhaps faster in proportion to
their previous numbers.

Upwards of twenty thousand Chinese are included in the
general number of arrivals above given. Such people were be-
coming very numerous in San Francisco, from whence the recent
immigrants from their country scattered themselves over the
various mining regions of California. At one period of 1852
there were supposed to be about 27,000 Chinese in the State.
A considerable number of people of " color" {par excellence) also
arrived. These were probably afraid to proceed to the mines to
labor beside the domineering white races, and therefore they re-
mained to drudge, and to make much money and spend it in San
Francisco, like almost every body else, Mexicans from Sonora
and other provinces of Mexico, and many Chilians, and a few
Peruvians from South America, were likewise continually com-
ing and going between San Francisco and the ports of their
own countries. The Chinese immigrants had their mandarins,
their merchants, rich, educated and respectable men, in San
Francisco ; but all the Mexicans and Chilians, like the people
of negro descent, were only of the commonest description. The
women of all these various races were nearly all of the vilest
character, and openly practised the most shameful commerce.
The lewdness of fallen white females is shocking enough to wit-
ness, but it is far exceeded by the disgusting practices of these
tawny visaged creatures.

NUMBERS AND CHARACTER OF THE POPULATION. 413

The laud immigration into the State was also exceedingly
great this year, numbering probably about thirty thousand per-
sons of all ages and both sexes. Among these was a large pre-
dominance of youths just entering upon the early prime of man-
hood. Much suifering was experienced by those who crossed the
great desert, and suppHes of provisions and other help were for-
warded to them by the State Government of California. The
steadily increasing production of gold had held out strong hopes
to the adventurous of the Eastern States, and of many other
portions of the world, that, after all, as great chances existed of
stiU making a moderate, if not a large fortune, in a short period
at the mines, as in the memorable years of 1848, '49 and '50.

Owing to the high prices of all kinds of provisions towards
the fall of 1852, many of the older residents in the country, and
a few of the later immigrants, began to turn their attention to
agricultural pursuits, which promised to yield even larger profits,
while they offered a pleasant er, healthier and surer occupation
than gold-digging. The choicer districts of the country were
thus getting gradually settled by " squatters" and pre-emptors,
a ad some legal purchasers of land ; and a beginning was made
towards rendering California independent of foreign countries for
supplies of food. A fair proportion of the recent immigrants re-
mained in San Francisco, while many who had been laboring in
the mines for the previous year or two with indifferent success,
or who had become wearied of that kind of life, now visited the
city with the view of permanently residing and entering upon
some kind of business there. From the census taken this year,
by authority of the Legislature, the total population of the State
appeared to be 264,435, while that of the County and City of
San Francisco was 36,151. These numbers were generally al-
lowed to be too small, arising from perhaps unavoidable errors in
taking the census. More particularly, the population of San
Francisco was supposed to be considerably underrated, the in-
habitants of some districts having been imperfectly enumerated.
The census was taken towards the close of 1852, and by the end
of December of that year, we think the true population of the
city alone may be reasonably estimated at 42,000 persons.

The material improvements begun in 1851 were briskly con-

414 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

tinned during the following year. California, Sansome, and
Battery streets were lined by a great many additional brick and
stone buildings. Front and Davis streets were formed, and closely
built upon with houses of frame. The various wharves continued
to stretch eastward, as if it were intended that they should soon
connect Yerba Buena Island with the mainland. The sand-hills
behind supplied ample material for filling up the bay, and giving
solid foundations for the increasing number of substantial stores.
Every where in the business portion of the city new and hand-
some fire-proof edifices were rising. The lower story of these
was often constructed of Chinese granite, and the upper ones of
brick. The piling across the bay and the filling in were con-
stantly going on. No sooner was a water lot piled and capped
than up sprang a frame building upon it ; no sooner was the
hollow beneath filled than the house of wood was destroyed, and
replaced by some elegant brick or granite structure.

At another part of the city, Stockton street was being orna-
mented with many handsome brick tenements, which were in-
tended for the private residences of some of the wealthier citi-
zens ; while over all the western and nortliern limits additional
and much finer frame buildings, and occasionally brick ones,
were being erected. Telegraph Hill continued to be seriously
encroached upon by the excavating and blasting operations going
on at Clark's Point. Even more rapid progress was making to-
wards the extreme south. Happy Valley now contained a large
number of commodious and handsome habitations, chiefly of
frame. Over all the city the process of grading and planking
new streets was going on, so that communication between the
principal districts was becoming easy. In the centre, the spirit
of improvement was busily at work. The plaza indeed remained
a disgrace to the authorities ; but Montgomery street, and Com-
mercial, Clay, Merchant, Washington and other cross streets, which
touched it, were being raj)idly covered with substantial and beauti-
ful fire-proof buildings. At the north-west corner of Montgomery
and California streets a large and imposing edifice of granite was
erected. This was occupied by Adams & Co., express agents,
and Page, Bacon & Co., bankers, and was the first of the superior
class of private edifices which are now so numerous in many parts

CITY IMPROVEMENTS.

415

of the city, and particularly on Montgomeiy street. The stone
for this building was prepared in China and put up in San Fran-
cisco by Chinese workmen. It was erected, and is owned
by Mr. John Parrott. More to the south, great changes were
taking place for the better. The faithful "paddy" or steam -
excavator never tired. Market street was cut through from
Battery to Kearny street ; while the sand-hills at the adjoining

Parrott's Granite Block.

ends of First and Second streets were rapidly disappearing.
Bush street, that recently had been only a huge mound of sand,
was levelled. California, Sacramento and other streets leading
to the west, were cutting throucrh or climbino: over the obstruct-
ing eminences. Higher grades were being adopted for the streets
in most of the lower quarters of the city, to which the houses
were being gradually conformed.

On the whole, a vast improvement had taken place in the
aspect of the town, and in the elegance and substantial comfort
of the newer buildings. No longer co\ild conflagrationSj like the

416 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

gi-eat fires of '50 and '51, destroy the centre and most valuable
parts of the city. The fire department was organized on the
most efficient scale, and included among its members many of
the most respectable inhabitants. The diflferent companies were
supplied with an excellent stock of engines and other apparatus.
The 7nen were enthusiastic, bold fellows, capable of enduring the
severest fiitigues, and ever ready to hazard Ufe and limb upon the
least alarm of fire, when their services could be made useful. An
unlimited supply of water could not be depended upon ; but
generally there was enough in the many artificial reservoirs
formed at the intersection of the chief streets, to extinguish any
ordinary conflagration. Confidence was now felt in the stability
of the city and its comparative immunity from fire. Two fire
insurance agencies, one for a New York and the other for a
London company, were established, so that the cautious could in-
sure their properties at reasonable rates. This was a striking
sign of the improved times. Lenders upon stored goods and on
real estate could now secure their advances against aU hazard
from fire ; while the speculative owners of property were encour-
aged to undertake permanent and most expensive improvements.
In the vicinity of the city numerous brick fields had long been
established. The new style of fire-proof buildings occasioned a
constant demand for this material. California-made bricks are
certainly much inferior to well-burned English or United States
bricks, yet they are considerably cheaper, and when painted or
in some way protected from the weather serve their purpose very
well. Besides these extensive manufactories of brick, there were
other manufactories and workshops which were being constantly
formed. In the district of Happy Valley particularly, — which had
been early selected for the site of such estabhshments, — there
existed numerous flour miUs and timber saw-mills, iron-foundries,
marine and land steam-engine works, and steamer and other
boat-building yards. In addition to these larger and more im-
posing establishments, there were many workshops, in various
parts of the city, of upholsterers, saddle and harness makers, boot
and shoe makers, carpenters, blacksmiths, painters, jewellers and
other craftsmen. AU manufactured articles were no longer im-
ported direct from the distant maker ; but some of the more

NEW GOLD DISCOVERIES. 417

necessary were beginning to be made on the spot from the raw-
mat erial. The letter-press printers, as might have been antici-
pated from the character of the American people, were a numer-
ous body ; and on the many newspapers and in extensive job
work found ample employment at lucrative rates.

The shops were daily assuming a more splendid appearance,
while on their well loaded shelves and the neatly laid out window
fronts and counters were displayed a brilliant assortment of the
particular goods they dealt in. Stylishly dressed, and often lovely
women were constantly seen, in fine weather, promenading the
principal streets, and idling their time (which they knew not
how otherwise to "kill,") and spending somebody's money in
foolish shopping, just as is the custom with the most virtuous
dames in the great cities on both sides of the Atlantic. Omni-
buses and superb public carriages plied through the streets, and
beautiful private equipages glittered and ghded smoothly along.
While the ladies dressed extravagantly, perhaps to please the
other sex, perhaps only to please themselves or annoy some
meaner souled or less rich sister, the gentlemen were scarcely be-
hind them in this respect. The days of the blouse, the colored
shirt and the " shocking bad hat " had fled, never, like time, to
return.

The incessant immigration gave liveliness to the streets, and
caused much profitable business to be done. At the same time
there was a vast emigration. Not only were the usual number
of departures to the Eastern States taking place ; but, as we
have seen, the discovery of gold in Australia was attracting
many Californians to that country. The whole world seemed to
be restless and morbidly excited by the cry of gold. Where it
was all to end who could tell ? Originally the Americas had
been peopled by the same intense desire for the precious metals.
Now, the portions of the New World that had been overlooked,
and Austraha, — a continent in itself, — were being filled by gold
hunters, who would assuredly in the course of time play an im-
portant part in the history of mankind. San Francisco itself
possessed a share of the precious metal. Grold was found in
pieces of quartz quarried from Telegraph Hill, in earth excavated
in Broadway, in the sand taken from a great depth in sinking
27

418 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO,

wells in Stockton street, and at various other parts of the city, in
1850. Indeed, we have seen hundreds of persons occupied in gath-
erino- it in small particles from the surface of the plaza itself,
after a long continued rain. But all these deposits in the centre
of the city, there is reason to believe, were scattered through the
careless or mischievous behavior of parties who were either unable
or too indifferent to take care of the precious metal brought by
themselves or others from the well known mining regions, and
some of whom doubtless felt repaid for the cost in the wonder-
ment they excited.

Over all California, however, gold was continually being dis-
covered in new places. It was the mineral wealth of the country
that had created San Francisco, and which was the source of its
continued prosperity. If this should suddenly fail, or the cry
increase of other and richer gold countries, easily accessible like
Australia, the city would undoubtedly receive a great shock.
Thousands were already moving away, and it was only the un-
usually great immigration of the year that prevented their loss
from being seriously felt by the city and the country at large.
In the end it was found that the Australia mines were not better
places for making a speedy fortune than were those of California,
while the former were less salubrious and agreeable to the
American personally. The emigration therefore to Austraha
began sensibly to slacken towards the close of this year ; while
gradually many of those who had gone thither early began now
to return.

In our review of 1851, we had occasion to remark the general
fall in the prices of merchandise, and the serious losses sustained
by shij)pers of goods to the San Francisco market during all that
year. The " good time " that had been long looked for by mer-
chants came at last ; and during the close, and generally over
the greater part of this year, not only remunerating but extrava-
gantly high prices were obtained for most goods, particularly for
all kinds of provisions. Flour, that had been only eight dollars a
barrel in March, by November had risen to upwards of forty dol-
lars, with a firm market. Eice, that was usually worth only a
few cents a pound, advanced, in the course of the year, to forty-
five and fifty cents. The Chinese, who preferred rice to every

HIGH PRICES OF GOODS AND PROVISIONS. 419

other kind of food, suffered severely from these high prices.
Butter ranged from fifty-five to seventy cents a pound, over the
early and greater part of the year. Other provisions and indeed
most kinds of merchandise rose in proportion. The usual reac-
tion, though long delayed, had taken place — the scarcity followed
the glut ; and the fortunate holders of goods realized large
profits, that compensated those who had continued in trade for
the losses of the previous seasons. Late in the year, when mar-
kets, in particular articles, were at the highest, it was known
that a large fleet of clipper ships was on the passage ^vith sup-
plies, many of which vessels were overdue ; hut as the stock
actually on hand was very limited, and day by day was lessening
in amount, which might be totally exhausted before the expected
arrivals haj^pened, consumers had to submit to necessity and pay
the rates demanded. Time was every thing in such a market as
San Francisco, where prices of merchandise usually fluctuated as
do "fancy stocks" on the 'Change of New York, London or
Paris. A week lost or gained in the arrival of a well selected
cargo might just be a fortune lost or gained to the shipper. The
clipper ships, as we have already remarked, were peculiarly the
consequence of such a trade and the natural creation of the
needs and commerce of our city. These clippers after being has-
tily unloaded, were dispatched to India or China, where they
either competed successfully with English ships for return car-
goes to the Atlantic, or were profitably employed in bringing
from the latter country many thousands of Chinese emigrants to
California. Year by year, the clipper character of ship was being-
more adopted, until it became, commercially speaking, foolish
and dangerous to freight any other kind of vessel to San Fran-
cisco.

Cholera again visited the city in the fall of this year ; though
its ravages were slight. However much may be said for the
general healthiness of the place, little praise can be given for the
very dirty state in which the greater part was allowed to remain
— and nearly the same may just be said of its condition in 1854.
The streets were thickly covered with black rotten mud. These
were the proper dunghills of the town, and were made a general
depot for all kinds of rubbish and household sweepings, offals and

420

ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO,

filth. Sometimes the rains came and scattered the abominable
stuffs carrpng part of them into the bay ; at other times, the
heats' gradually dried them up. Eats— huge, fat, lazy things,
prowled about at pleasure, and fed on the dainty garbage. The
pedestrian at night, stumbling along the uneven pavements, and
ihrou'di streets that were only a series of quagmires, would occa-

J jial^ g^X'fc^^j^^K^^^^

A street-scene on a rainy night

sionally tread on the loathsome, bloated, squeaking creatures, and
start back in disgust and horror, muttering a curse or two at such
a villainously unclean town. These animals abounded in such
great numbers that entire sacks and barrels of Horn' and bread have
been destroyed by them on a single night in a storehouse. They
were of several varieties, each differing in color. Besides the
common grey rat, there were others white, blue and black.
These latter descriptions have materially decreased in numbers
of late ; the gray fellows, being the stronger, having, it is said,
either driven away or destroyed them. Sickening stenches per-

PECULATIONS OF OFFICIALS. 421

vaded every quarter. Owing to the raising of the streets in the
lower part of the city when establishing the grades, many of the
building blocks became great hollow spaces, surrounded on the
four sides by high banks of earth. In these places also, which
had no drainage, every foul thing and unsightly rubbish were
carelessly thrown, and soon deep pools of stagnant water collect-
ed in the midst. Beneath the houses and streets which had been
formed over the bay, and which had been only partially filled up,
there was accumulating a vast mass of putrid substances, from
whence proceeded the most unwholesome and offensive smells.
In any other place as near the tropic these things would un-
doubtedly have generated a pestilence ; but here the cool winds
from the ocean which prevail during the summer season, and
which at times are so unpleasant to the shivering inhabitant, had
the beneficial effect of neutralizing many of the bad efiects which
must otherwise have arisen from the want of cleanhness over all
the city. From the dead level preserved in that part of the city
which was built across the bay, it would seem impossible that a
thorough drainage can ever now be had in the lower and most
valuable district. This is one of the inconveniences which the
indefinite extension of the town eastward has produced. Perhaps
it would have been better, if instead of streets and houses, there
had been constructed substantial quays and wet docks sufficient
to contain all the shipping that had ever visited the harbor.
Ships then would have lain in safety from the " South-easters "
and the " North-easters," which now so terribly plague and
damage them when lying exposed at anchor in the tidal
channel.

Crime, during 1852, was perhaps not sensibly diminished ;
but in the increasing importance of other matters of pubhc dis-
cussion, lower-class criminals were tolerated, or less pursued.
Legalized robberies, in the shape of " Peter Smith " purchases,
more occupied the attention of the citizens. It would be unjust
to individuals and to human nature, to challenge every pubhc
officer in San Francisco with gross peculation and corruption in
office ; yet it was confessed on all sides that almost every citizen,
who had a chance of preying upon the corporation means, unhesi-
tatingly and shamefully took advantage of his position. His

422 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

brother harpies kept him in countenance. This gave rise to a
general opinion that the city never could possibly obtain a pure
and good government until the bone of contention among rival
candidates for office,— its property, to wit,— was all exhausted,
squandered, stolen or gifted away. When that perhaps happy
day came, — as its advent seemed close at hand, — the "fathers"
and salaried servants of the city might possibly work only for the
common good, and not chiefly for their own. Had matters been
prudently and patriotically managed, San Francisco might, at
this day, have been the richest city, of its size, in the world. As
the case stands, it is one of the poorest, as certainly its inhabi-
tants are perhaps the most heavily taxed of any community for
a feeble and inefficient government. This is chiefly to be attri-
buted to the people themselves. Incapable, weak and corrupt
officials are blamable, but the people who choose them, and of
whom they are part, are perhaps much more in fault. Where
the mass think, and talk, and act, without any particular regard
to high moral principle, it can scarcely be expected that their
chosen representatives should difier materially from them. When
even a man of severe probity and high talent is elected to an
office of trust, he finds often insuj)erable difficulties in his way,
from the want of co-operation, and the carelessness or corruj)tion
of his own constituents. The most righteous judge can do little
good on the bench when interested witnesses disguise the truth,
and juries will return verdicts in defiance of it.

However, in spite of local jobbery and mismanagement, enor-
mous municipal expenses, and iniquity every where, the city grew
in size, beauty and importance. Its admirable maritime position,
and chiefly the determined energy and perseverance of its people,
who believed in its glorious future, and found their own interest
in the work, were raising it year by year to still more remarkable
grandeur. Many of the citizens were opulent, while none needed
to be in poverty. Intemperance and dissipation alone could
squander the enormous wages of the most inferior laborers and
the large profits of capital in every kind of business. Then, as
now, no healthy man of ordinary strength need want lucrative
and honest employment of some kind or other. As for the sick
and weak, San Francisco is indeed not a place for them, although

GROWING IMPORTANCE OF THE CITY. 423

hospitals and occasional private charities may serve to alleviate
for a time their hapless situation. San Francisco is a place for
work — real, useful, hard work. If any man can give that — it
may sometimes be with the head, but oftener with the hand, he
is sure, not merely of subsistence, but of a competence, and in-
deed a fortune in the long run. If lazy, or incapable of such
work, the sooner the useless thing takes his departure, the better
for himself and the place.

No important change had occurred in the social or moral con-
dition of San Francisco during 1852. The characteristics of the
people which were noticed in our review of the previous year, still
existed. The old dizzy round of business and pleasure continued.
There were now only more people, greater wealth, finer houses,
more shops and stores, more work, trade and profits, more places
of dissipation and amusement, more tippling and swearing, more
drunkenness and personal outrages, nearly as much public gam-
bling and more private play. There were also a few more modest
women, and many more of another class ; more benevolent insti-
tutions and orphans' asylums ; more fire companies, military
companies, and masonic lodges. Likewise there were more newspa-
pers, that discoursed eloquently, ever railing " in good set terms "
against corruption in high places, but which not being supported
by the sincere feeling of a pure and honest people, made no such
irresistible body of public opinion as they sometimes do in other
countries. Then there were more churches, more moral teachers
and religious pubhcations, more Sabbath and day schools ; and,
too, more of every thing that was beautiful and bad, more vice,
debauchery and folly, and perhaps also a little more real rehgion,
and sometimes a deal of outward decency. The moral sepulchre
was occasionally receiving a fresh coat of paint. It should not
be forgotten, at the same time, that with the increase of popula-
tion, there was also an increase of occasional charities and high-
minded liberal deeds. These things are done in secret, or they
lose their noble character. The public generally know not of
them. However much the sordid pursuit of wealth may cloud
the true friendships and generous actions of many of the San
Franciscans, the native worth of heroic and pure souls will at
times shine through all. As kings reigned before Agamemnon,

424 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

30 there are here great and worthy, honest and true men, as well
as there have been elsewhere. Their exact number cannot be
counted, but the student of human nature, according to his
temperament and means of information, may hazard an estimate
on the subject.

Residents of a few years' standing — the landmarks, by turns,
of the ancient village, town and city, began now to disappear.
These perhaps had made a fortune, and sown their " wild oats "
in the place. They now retired to the Atlantic States or Europe,
— to liome, in short, — to enjoy their gains at ease, astonish quiet
neighbors with their wondrous tales, speculate on the future of
San Francisco, and become disgusted and ennuied with the slow-
ness, tameness, decorum and insipidity of the conventional mode
of existence they were leading. New faces and new names were
rising into importance, in place of the earliest pioneers and the
"forty-niners." The majority, however, of the first settlers had
faith in the place ; they relished its excitements as well of business
as of pleasure ; they had no family or fond ties elsewhere, or
these had been long rudely broken ; and so they adhered to San
Francisco. Many of these persons had waxed very rich, in spite
of themselves, by the sudden rise in the value of real estate, or by
some unexpected circumstance, while others, after expending a
world of ingenuity, wickedness and hard work, remained almost
as poor as when, hopeful and daring, they landed in the ship's
boat at Clark's Point, or when the tide was high, at the first rude
wharf that ran a short distance out from the beach at Mont-
gomery street. There is a fascination in even the loose, unset-
tled kind of fife at San Francisco. Of many who have left the
city, after a residence of years, and when they have accumulated
a handsome fortune, a considerable number have gladly returned.
For many months, perhaps for even a year or two, the immigrant
thinks he can never worthily or rationally enjoy existence in such
a place ; so he determines to make a fortune as soon as possible,
and decamp for ever. But fortunes are now made more slowly,
and the old citizen — a few years here make one old in sensation,
thought and experience — changes his sentiments, and he begins
to hke the town and people for their own sake. The vices and
follies, the general mode of living, that frightened and shocked

SAN FRANCISCO MORALS. 425

him at first, seem natural to the climate, and, after all, are by
no means so very disagreeable. If he retm-ned to settle in ultra
or pseudo-civilized and quiet States, he would surely feel himself
but a " used-up " man ; so he continues where he made his
money, still to feel, speculate and enjoy, to work and contend
with real men, in their keenest and strongest characters.

It may be thought by some that we have said many over-
harsh things in this and other chapters of this work, regarding
our fellow citizens. We cannot help that, for the occasions seem
to justify the language used. If unmingled praise, or hesitating
censure were adopted when talking of San Francisco, people else-
where would not believe the tale, while those here would only
laugh in their sleeve at the decent hypocrisy and cant of the
writer. Better proclaim the worst at once ; and then let who
will find explanations, excuses and palliations. These will be
readily advanced by the wiser portion of mankind, who know the
temptations that beset poor human nature, and how often it falls
when fatal opportunity ofiers. Let it be always understood that
we describe the place as at particular periods, and not what we
think will be its grand coming destiny. San Francisco was, at
the times of which we have discoursed, and it still is, in a state
of moral ferment. When the ebullition ceases, though years
may elapse before that happens, the natural qualities of its ad-
venturous and clever people will be more clearly and generously
developed. The scum and froth of its strange mixture of peo-
ples, of its many scoundrels, rowdies and great men, loose women,
sharpers and few honest folk, are still nearly all that is visible.
The current of its daily life is muddied and defiled by the wild
efiervescence of these unruly spirits. It may be said that nearly
all came to the city only as devout worshippers of mammon ;
scarcely one, to find a home, which might unjustly have been de-
nied him elsewhere. In order to accumulate the greatest heap
of gold in the shortest possible time, schemes and actions had
often to be resorted to, w^hich nice honor could not justify nor
strict honesty adopt. In the scramble for wealth, few had con-
sciences much purer than their neighbors ; few hands were much
cleaner. Some were found out and victimized ; others were
wise and provoked not discussion. The few lamented, and the

426 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

wise and good hoped and foresaw better things. Time, and a
sounder jiublic oijinion, will cure most of the evils we have allud-
ed to, leaving the undoubted talent, shrewdness, capacity for
hard, practical work, and the original honesty, honor and high
liberal spirit of the people free to show themselves. Cities, like
men, have their birth, growth and maturer years. Some are
born Titans, and from the beginning promise to be mighty in
their deeds, however wilful and destructive. Few spring into
beino" fuU armed, wise and sedate as Minerva. San Francisco,
while it can show so many enduring marvels for its few years, has
also wasted much of its means in " riotous living ; " but its young
hot blood will cool by and by. Then ripened years and wisdom
will subdue its foolish levities and more disgraceful vices. Mean-
while, let us treat the noble city kindly, just as we deal with the
beautiful woman that offends us — look upon her face and forget
her follies. We pardon the careless, extravagant, yet high spir-
ited youth, who lavishes his substance in wild pleasure, when he
stops short and vows repentance ; nay, even though he break out
again and again, "we cannot seriously feel offended with the
charming gallant, so only that he hurts nobody but himself
Let us view San Francisco in something of the same gentle and
forgiving, if not sympathizing spirit.

CHAPTER XXIV.
1853.

Commerce. — Mercantile Library Association. — The Limantour claim. — Election of delegates to reviso
the City Charter. — Third annual celebration of the organization of the Fire Department— Steam-
ships lost — Extension of the city water front — United States Marine Hospital.

January. — We have taken occasion to notice in various parts
of this work the progress of commerce in San Francisco. Year
by year, the number of vessels visiting the harbor was increasing.
We present here some statements on the subject, compiled from
a table of statistics by Colonel Cost, of the naval office.

ARRIVALS AND CLEARANCES IN THE

YEAR

Arrivals.

Nations. Vessels. Tons.

American 346 188,575

British 225 74,931

French 29 11,286

Chilian 37 9,393

Mexican 41 5,279

Danish 12 2,215

Bremen 11 3,132

Norwegian 4 1,100

Hamburg 20 4,628

Dutch 15 6,965

Hawaiian 28 3,562

Peruvian 14 2,024

Prussian 2 960

Swedish 4 1,156

Portuguese 3 675

Brazihan 1 738

Sardinian 3 1.038

Austrian 1 521

Am. Coasters 351 196,282

Total 1147 514,460

In 1851, the arrivals

wera 847 245,678

Increase 300 268,782

PORT OF SAN FRANCISCO DURING THE
1852.

Clearances.

Nations. Vessels.

American 405

British 196

French 33

Chilian 25

Mexican 34

Danish 10

Bremen 11

Norwegian 2

Hamburg 20

Dutch 5

Hawaiian 25

Peruvian 8

Prussian 2

Swedish 5

Portuguese 2

Brazilian 1

Sardinian 7

Austrian 1

Am. Coasters 833

Tons.

216,642

76,270

12,949

6,444

4,567

1,959

2,977

576
4,185
1,523
3,190
1,599

540
1,700

450

728
1,383

300
115,462

Total 1625 453,444

In 1851 the clearances

were 1315 422,043

Increase 310 31,401

428 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

The sliipments of gold dust during 1852 from San Francisco,
as appears from the custom-house record of clearances, amounted
in all to $46,599,044. Of this amount the value of $45,251,724
was cleared for Panama ; $511,376, for San Juan ; $482,596, for
Hong Kong ; and the remainder principally for various ports on
the Pacific. Sums carried away by individuals are not included
in the amounts mentioned.

Januaky 25th. — Election of officers of the Mercantile Libra-
ry Association. It had long been evident that such an associa-
tion was much needed in San Francisco. In the absence of any
thin"- like a home or domestic comfort, all classes seemed to be
alike forced to frequent places of public recreation, and were ex-
posed to the many degrading influences which drink, gambling,
and still worse vices have upon the personal character. To with-
draw youths in particular from the haunts of dissipation, and to
give to persons of every age and occupation the means of mental
improvement, and a suitable place for passing their leisure hours,
were the great objects of the Mercantile Library Association.
Public meetings were held, at which the purposes and advan-
tages of the proposed institution were strongly urged by its benevo-
lent projectors and patrons ; and committees were formed to col-
lect contributions of books and subscriptions from the general
public. By these means a considerable deal of interest was ex-
cited on the subject, and liberal donations and subscriptions were
procured. The following gentlemen were unanimously elected as
the first officers : —

President. — David S. Turner.
Vice-President. — J. P. Haven. Treasurer. — C. E. Bowers, jr.

Recording Sechj. — R. H. Stephen. Corresponding Sec'y. — Dr. H. Gibbons.
Directors.— E. E. Dunbar, J. B. Crockett, D. H. Haskell and E. P. Flint.

The rooms of the association, which were on the second floor
of the California Exchange, — a central and most convenient lo-
cality, — were first opened on the evening of the 1st of March of
this year. The largest apartment was elegantly fitted up as a
reading and lecture room, and was abundantly supplied with
local newspapers, and with some of the leading journals of the
Eastern States, as well as with a choice selection of magazines
and reviews. The library contained fifteen hundred volumes by

THE LIMANTOUR CLAIM. 429

the best authors, and was ^being constantly increased by dona-
tions and purchases. Only one year later, it numbered about
three thousand volumes, comprising many of the best standard
works in the English language, besides many valuable works in
French, Spanish, Grerman, &c.

This institution is of the most excellent character, and de-
serves the active support and Avell wishes of every liberal-minded
citizen. It is the best substitute for a portion of the comforts of
a home that can be provided in the present condition of San
Francisco. Occasional lectures on interesting topics, literary and
dramatic essays and readings, and frequent public debates on
political and other subjects of the day, give variety and excite-
ment to the ordinary business of the association. The pleasures
and advantages of this institution have not hitherto been suf-
ficiently understood, or sought by the people for whom they were
intended ; but it may be presumed that the intrinsic and grow-
ing merits of the association will in future excite more fruitful
notice from all classes of the community. The terms of mem-
bership are very moderate, being an entrance fee of ten dollars
(since reduced to five dollars, "for clerks and others in employ"),
and a monthly payment of one dollar. A subscription of twen-
ty-five dollars, and a monthly payment of one dollar, entitle the
party to one share in the stock of the institution, and to the pro-
fits arising on the same. The library and reading rooms are open
every day, from 9 o'clock a. m. to 10 o'clock p. m. For two hours
after noon thej are only open to ladies, and gentlemen accompa-
nying ladies. The chambers of the association are now in the
Court Block, Merchant street.

February 5th. — The claim of Jose Yves Limantour present-
ed to the Board of Land Commissioners. San Francisco, which
had survived the Leavenworth and Colton grants, the Peter
Smith sales, and other legahzed robberies and " squatters " with-
out number, though it sufiered terribly in the struggle, was now
threatened by a claim, which if held valid, would turn over to a
single individual one-half of its real estate, owned partly by the
city itself, and partly by thousands of onerous and bona fide hold-
ers, who fancied their possessions were their own by the strongest
legal titles. Limantour, who was a Frenchman by birth, and

430 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

had been a trader along the coast, stated, that he had advanced,
in the year 1843, to Manuel Micheltorrena, who was then Mexi-
can Governor and Comraandante-General of the Cahfornias, con-
siderable sums of money for the use of the departmental govern-
ment of tliat country, at a period when it was impoverished. In
return for tliis service, or as it is expressed. in the deed itself, "in
consideration of loans in merchandise and ready money which he
has made to this government at different times " (somewhere
about $4000), Limantour said that he had received a complete
grant of certain large tracts of land in the neighborhood of Yerba
Buena. Tlie deed of conveyance and several relative papers
have been produced to the Board of Commissioners, and appear
at first sight regular and legal documents. The first seems to
have been given at Los Angeles, the 27th day of February,
1843, and is signed by Micheltorrena. It conveys " the land
contained from the line of the pueblo de la Yerba Buena, distant
four hundred varas from the settlement house (casa fimdadora)
of Don William Richardson to the south-east, beginning on the
beach at the north-east, and following it along its whole edge
(margeii), turning round the point of Eincon to the south-east,
and following the bay as far as the mouth of the estuary of the
mission, including the deposits of salt water, and following the
valley {canada) to the south-west, where the fresh water runs,
passing to the north-west side, about two hundred varas from
the mission to where it completes two leagues north-east and
south-west to the Eincon, as represented by the plat (diseno)
No. 1, which accompanies the Expediente.

" Second : Two leagues of land, more or less, beginning on
the beach of the ' Estacada ' at the ancient anchorage of the
port of San Francisco, below the castle (castiUo) following to
the south-east, passing the ^'^ presidio" (military post) — follow-
ing the road of the mission, and the line to the south-west as far
as the beach which runs to the south from the port, taking the
said beach to the north-west, turning round the Point Lobos,
and following to the north-east, along the whole beach of the
castle {castillo) two hundred varas, and following the beach as
far as the ' Estacada, where begins the plat ( diseno) No. 2."

The tracts of land contained within the boundaries men-

THE LIMANTOUR CLAIM. 431

tionecl (whicli are vague and very unsatisfactorily given), com-
prise four square leagues, and include a great part of the most
valuable portion of the city. It may also be mentioned here,
that, in addition to these four square leagues, Senor Limantour
likewise claimed the Islands of Alcantraz and Yerba Buena in
the bay, and the whole group of the Farallones, which lie twenty
or thirty miles oif the Heads, and a tract of land, one square
league in extent, situated opposite the Island of Los Angeles, at
the westward of Racoon Straits. Besides these islands and
square leagues, Limantour has also claimed before the Board of
Land Commissioners still more extensive properties in various
parts of the State, amounting in all to considerably more than a
hundred square leagues of land. All other claims are a bagatelle
to this.

These great claims seemed so ridiculous and untenable at
first sight, that the press and individuals pecuniarily interested
were generally disposed to think very lightly of them. That
Limantour should have been so long silent as to liis alleged
rights was a very odd circumstance that generated suspicion all
was not told. He had looked on during years when the property
included in his grants was being transferred over and over again
to new buyers, always rising in value at every sale, and had
tacitly appeared to assent to the existing state of things. When
the ground was worth many millions of dollars, and hundreds, if
not thousands of individuals were pecuniarily interested in it,
then Limantour first declared his pretensions. His claim seemed
monstrous — to one half of the great City of San Francisco, with
all its houses and improvements and future prosperity ! — a claim
that had been mysteriously concealed for eight or ten years !
Pshaw ! it could not be an honest, valid one. So folks said to
themselves. As while we write the matter remains under judi-
cial consideration, — though some years may pass before a judg-
ment can be obtained, — we are prevented from examining mi-
nutely the nature both of the claim and the objections to it. We
may only state generally that many believe the former is " false,
fraudulent, or simulated ; " while Gen. James Wilson, Liman-
tour's attorney, says — " With a perfect knowledge of all the pa-
pers and documents in the case ; a careful consideration of all

432 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

the testimony taken, I am constrained to say, and I do most
conscientiously say, that there is not, and in my firm belief there
cannot possibly be, the slightest indicia of fraud in it, or in any
way connected with it. ' Fraud is to be proved, not inferred.' "
In the pamphlet from which these quotations are made, and
which was printed and published by order of Limantour, Gen.
Wilson discusses Micheltorrena's alleged grant, and finds it
abundantly proved. He thus settles his client's cause with a
thunder-clap sentence, which must frighten the very souls of
Limantour's "nimble adversaries : " — " Say that deed of grant is
not valid ! Never — Nevek ! It cannot be so said without
rushing roughshod and blindfold over all the facts in the case,
and all the law and equity in Christendom." If proof and the
Land Commissioners sanction Limantour's claim, there will be a
day of reckoning and lament to many of our citizens, who have
fondly imagined themselves the true proprietors of much valuable
real estate. Then will be tried the truth and worth of the max-
im — Justitia fiat, mat Coelum.

February 16th. — Election of delegates from the different
wards to a convention to revise the city charter. The following
parties were elected : —

First Ward. — Henry Meigs, Edward McGowan, William Carr.
Second Ward. — F. L. Jones, James Gallagher, E. W. Graham.
Third Ward. — D. A. Magellan, Eugene Casserly, W. H. Martin.
Fourth If a?f/.— S. AY. HoUiday, C. S. Biden, J. R. Dunglisson.
Fifth Ward.— Lonis R. Lull, T. D. Greene, F. 0. Wakeman.
Sixth Ward. — James Grant, Henry Richardson, David Jobson.
Seventh Ward. — A. C. Wakeman, James Hagan, Henry Sharpe.
Eighth Ward. — Thomas Hayes, I. D. White, William Green.

These parties met on the 7th of March at the council cham-
bers in the City Hall, and proceeded to discuss the provisions of
the existing charter and the proposed alterations upon it. The
charter, as revised, was afterwards submitted to the people at
the annual election of municipal officers. Little interest seemed
to be manifested on the subject, except by the inhabitants of the
eighth ward, whose personal interests were particularly affected
by the contemplated measure. Though rejected by six wards, it
was, on the whole, approved of by a majority of votes. Subse-

firemen's celebration, 433

quently it was laid before the Legislature, to be formally passed by
it as a new charter of the city. At the date of writing this
notice, that event has not taken place. It differs materially
from the former charter, and the propriety of some of its decla-
rations, particularly what maybe called the "squatter" pro-
visions, has been much disputed. In many other respects, it is
a decided improvement upon the present charter.

February 22d. — The anniversary of the birth-day of Wash-
ington had been adopted on previous occasions as a fit time to
celebrate the organization of the fire companies of the city. On
this day, the third annual celebration took place. It was dis-
tinguished by the large attendance of the firemen, the splendor
of the procession, the fineness of the weather, and the great
number of citizens, who as sympathetic spectators participated in
the festivities of the occasion. The firemen were dressed in the
uniform of the different companies, and their engines and various
apparatus were burnished as brightly and decorated as beauti-
fully as hands could manage. Several bands of music formed
part of the procession, while banners and devices of various kinds
gave increased animation to the scene. The chief interest, how-
ever, of the exhibition lay in the appearance of the Tnen them-
selves. These were of every class in the community, and were a
fine athletic set of fellows. Their voluntary occupation was a
good and grand one, and required much skill and courage, while
it was pursued under circumstances involving great personal
danger, and often much inconvenience and pecuniary loss to
individuals, who, at the call of duty, cheerfully forsook their own
private business to save the community from a terrible calamity.
At the awful peal of the alarm-bell, no matter at what hour or
place, or how occupied, the fireman rushed to his post, to drag
and work his pet engine where most needed. At busy noon, he
threw aside his cash-book and ledger ; in the evening, he ab-
ruptly left the theatre, or other place of amusement ; at mid-
night, he started from sleep, and only half-dressed, leaped and
ran to his appointed quarters. A few minutes later, and the
whole city might be in a blaze ! This thought gave speed to his
heels and strength to his arms. Scarcely had the first heavy
strokes of the alarm-bell ceased to vibrate on the panic-stricken
28

434 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

ear, when were heard the lighter, cheerful peals of the bells of the
eno-ines, as they were wheeled from their houses and hurried
rapidly through the streets.

Fires in San Francisco used to be dreadful affairs, and no
pen can adequately describe the terror, confusion and despair
that spread far and wide when the wild cry was heard. The
danger and horror of conflagration are now much lessened, partly
by the increase of fire-proof brick buildings, and partly by the
continually growing efficiency of the fire companies. Still the
alarm of fire can never be listened to without many sad misgiv-
ings as to the possible result. The centre and business part of
the city may now seem to be beyond the reach of total destruction
or even of a serious loss ; yet large districts lying around the fire-
proof nucleus may any day be altogether consumed, if it were not
for the unflagging and desperate efforts of the unpaid, volunteer
firemen. From the peculiar risk and circumstances attending
conflagrations in San Francisco, these noble men have always had
a difficult and dangerous task to perform. Their boldness, their
alertness, energy, and unwearied perseverance in their praise-
worthy calling, have been long celebrated in America ; and, to
this day, it is a high term of honor over the civilized world to
belong to their body. Many foreigners are members of the differ-
ent companies. Later in this year, some of the French inhabi-
tants of the city formed themselves into a company by them-
selves, called the " Lafayette."

On i.l;e occasion of the anniversary of the Fire Department
of this year, the procession alluded to moved through the princi-
pal streets, attended, admired, and cheered by a large concourse
of people. Indeed the whole city seemed to have turned out en
masse. The firemen then proceeded to the American Theatre^
where an occasional address was dehvered by Frank M. Pixley.
The house was filled to overflowing, and presented a fine show.
There was a large attendance of ladies in the boxes.

March 6th. — The Pacific mail steamship Tennessee went
ashore this morning at Tagus Beach, in Bolinas Bay, about three
or four miles north of the Heads, at the entrance to the Bay of
San Francisco. Dense fogs, which had misled the captain as to
the ship's position, were the cause of the vessel striking the

STEAMSHIPS LOST.

435

shore. These fogs are very prevalent along the coast, and have
often been the cause of serious shipwrecks. The Tennessee had
about six hundred i)asseugers on board, one hundred of svhoni
were women and children. By happy chance, the ship went
upon a small, sandy beach, on both sides of which at a short dis-
uince were enormous cliffs, on which if the vessel had struck she

tM3'

Wreck of the Tonne-see.

would have gone immediately to pieces, and probably most of
those on board would have perished. As it was, and the sea
being smooth, the passengers were all safely landed, as well as
the mail-bags and express matter. It was expected that the
Tennessee would afterwards have been safely towed off. The
Goliah and the Thomas Hunt, steam-tugs, were sent to perform
that operation ; but after some trials, it was found to be imprac-
ticable. After removing therefore a considerable quantity of
cargo, stores, &c., the vessel was abandoned, and shortly after-
wards went to pieces.

The loss of the Tennessee was the first known of a series of
calamities at sea, which happened about this time, and in which

436 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

San Francisco was deeply interested. The most terrible and
disastrous of these was the loss of the steamship Independence ^
of Vanderbilt's Independent Line, from San Juan to San Fran-
cisco. Upon the morning of the 16th of February, about day-
break, and when the atmosphere was perfectly clear, the ship
struck upon a sunken reef, about a mile from the shore of Mar-
o-arita Island, off the coast of Lower California. The sea was
quite smooth at the time. The engine was backed, and the
ship hove off the reef As she was making water rapidly, it was
thought best to beach her. She was accordingly run ashore in a
small cove on the south-west side of the island, about five miles
distant from the place where she had first struck. At this time
it was discovered that the vessel was on fire. The people, who
had hitherto been quiet and self-possessed, now lost all control
of themselves ; and many in a frantic state leaped overboard.
All order seemed to be lost, and everybody thought only how
best to save himself The scene is said to have been horrible
in the extreme. The crew and passengers amounted to four
hundred and fourteen persons ; and of this number nearly two
hundred perished, among whom were seventeen children and fif-
teen females. When intelligence of the sad occurrence reached
San Francisco, it caused much excitement and general sorrow.
Many had to mourn the loss of a relative or friend, whose com-
ing had been fondly expected. Liberal contributions were made
by the citizens to alleviate the sufferings of the surviving passen-
gers of the Independence, and to carry them to a place of safety
from the desolate and dangerous island upon which they were
thrown, naked, and without food or shelter.

On the morning of the 9th April following, the steamship
S. S. Lewis, of the Nicaragua line, went ashore at a place six
miles north of Bolinas Bav, and about fifteen miles north of the
Heads. Dense fogs were the cause of this loss, as they had been
the cause of the loss of the Tennessee. There were three hundred
and eighty-five persons on board when the ship struck, all of
whom were saved, as well as the greatest part of their personal
baggage. The sea was running high at the time, and soon after-
wards the vessel went to pieces.

Thus were three of the large ocean steamers connected with
San Francisco lost within Httle more than a month, two of which

WATER FRONT EXTENSION. 437

had gone ashore within the distance of a few miles from the city.
It was remarked that there seemed to he a kind of fatahty
attending the passenger steamers connected with our port. Eleven
vessels of that description, some of which were of a magnificent
character, had heen lost within the previous two years. The list
is as follows : —

Commodore Preble. — May 3d, 1851, on Humboldt Bar.

Union. — July 5th, 1851, at San Quentin.

Chesapeake. — Rudder lost at sea, put into Port Oxford for repairs, October 10th,

1851; proceeded to Humboldt, and was condemned and sold.
Sea Gull.— Jan. 26th, 1852, on Humboldt Bar.
General Warren. — Jan. 31st, 1852, Clatsop Spit.
North America. — Feb. 27th. 1852, forty miles south of Acapulco.
Pioneer. — Aug. 17th, 1852, San Simeon's Bay.
City of Pittsburg: — Oct. 24th, 1852, burned in the Bay of Valparaiso, on her

way to California.
Independence. — Feb. 16th, 1853, burned at Margarita Island.
Tennessee. — March 6th, 1853, entrance to San Francisco Bay.
Lewis. — April 9th, 1853, three miles north of Bolinas Bay.

April. — ^For some months hack the citizens have been much
excited by the introduction and progress through the legislative
chambers, of a bill to extend the water front of the city six
hundred feet beyond the existing boundary line. It appears that
the annual expenditure of the State was year by year greatly
exceeding its income, and financial difficulties were the natural
consequence. To procure some relief from these. Governor Bigler,
in a message to the Senate and House of Assembly, recommended
that the limits of San Francisco should be extended towards the
water, and that such extension should be sold or leased for the
benefit of the State. This counsel appeared most unjust, and
caused much alarm to the inhabitants of the city. The mayor
and the boards of aldermen and assistant aldermen severally is-
sued messages and reports against the passage of the contem-
plated measure. The board of aldermen, on the 31st January,
unanimously adopted a memorial to the Legislature, in which
they represented that any measure of the nature suggested by
the governor would be productive of incalculable hurt to the
prosperity of San Francisco.

" Your memorialists," the document said, " have spared no labor to procure
a full and frank expression of opinion by the most competent to decide upon

438 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

the merits of the proposed extension, and have received the concurrent testi-
mony of every captain and merchant in the city, that the safnction of your
honorable body to such a proceeding would place in jeopardy the entire ship-
pin -i- of the port, by depriving it of the protection and shelter of the head-
lands which it at present enjoys.

'■ Your memorialists feel warranted in asserting, from their own observation,
as well as from the assurance of the present distinguished officer in command
of the Hydrographical Party of the United States Coast Survey, that the ex-
tent to which the present filling up of the City Front has been pushed, has
worked material injury to the safe anchorage of vessels already, by shoaling
the waters of the harbor, and compelling ships of heavy draft to anchor fur-
ther out, exposed to the full force of the tide and the fury of the strong
gales from the south-east that prevail during the rainy season."

These opinions were fully shared in by the inhabitants gen-
erally. Not only would San Francisco, the commercial metropo-
lis of the State, be materially damaged as a port, but much griev-
ous wrong would be committed against the owners of property
upon the line of the existing water front. By the Act of 26th
March, 1851, which leased the State's interest in the water lots
for ninety-nine years, and which specifically defined the boundary
lines, it was declared that the same " shall be and remain a 'per-
manent water front " of the city. In the knowledge and faith
of this constitutional and binding declaration, the water lots had
been sold and improvements made upon them. The present
owners had every reason to believe that the water front could not
legally, and would not illegally and inequitably, be further ex-
tended. The doing so would be most prejudicial to their rights,
while at the same time it would be a most serious injury to the
general interests and privileges of the city.

Notwithstanding these and other objections, the obnoxious
bill passed the House of Assembly by a majority of four, in which
majority were two of the representatives from San Francisco.
The other five representatives, who had voted against the mea-
sure, and some of whom had spoken often and forcibly upon its
manifest injustice, now resigned their seats, and appealed to their
constituents for an approval of their conduct, by standing as
candidates for re-election. On the 14th of April, a new election
took place. The course taken by the old representatives was
chiefly opposed by a certain small section of the community,
which was supposed to be personally interested in the passing of

WATER FRONT EXTENSION. 439

the bill complained of. On the 2d of January, in the preceding
year, at one of the noted Peter Smith's sales, already mentioned,
a great belt of land " covered with water," and extending six
hundred feet beyond the existing and recognized water front, and
embracing many thousand distinct lots, had been sold by the sheriff
for something less than $7000, in order to satisfy a judgment against
the city. The particular nature of the right of the city to this
ground " covered with water," and the rights of the party holding
the judgment, and of the sheriff to sell it, were matters imper-
fectly understood. Therefore the exact rights acquired by the
purchasers nobody could distinctly estimate. As things stood,
the buyers, who had speculated on a fortune of twice as many
millions as they had paid thousands, could do nothing. But by
enlisting the State on their side, and exciting the cupidity of the
government, the Peter Smith jobbers might hope to derive incal-
culable benefits from their desperate bargains, by making a " com-
promise " with the commissioners proposed to be appointed under
the contemplated bill. By the express terms of this bill, they
would, most probably, have secured two-thirds of their purchases.
To raise a fund for carrying on their scheme, and to interest
parties personally in its success, certain of the new water lots
were disposed of at low or nominal prices.

It was these original and subsequent buyers then, and their
immediate friends and those whom they could in any way influ-
ence, that opposed the re-election of the representatives to the
House of Assembly. The people generally felt that this matter
was one of the utmost consequence to the welfare of the com-
munity. On the day of election many of the leading citizens
closed their places of business, and devoted themselves to watch-
ing over the polls. The question at issue was one of principle,
and not the mere personal choice of favorite candidates. The
anti-extensionists, as they were called, were completely successful.
Five votes to one of those polled were in favor of the old
representatives ; while, if it had been necessary, a still larger
majority would have been obtained. At the close of the poll,
the following parties were elected, viz. : — Samuel Flower, John
Sime, John H. Saunders, James M. Taylor, and Elcan Heydenfelt.

Meanwhile, the bill had been carried into the Senate, and

440 ANNALS OF SAN rRANCISCO.

the parties for and against it seemed nearly balanced. Repeated
public meetings were held at San Francisco on the subject, at
which resolutions were passed strongly condemnatory of the bill
and its known supporters. All classes of the community, except
the reckless speculators who hoped to profit by the iniquitous-
Act, were bitterly opposed to the measure. If adopted, it would
certainly have the effect of injuring the harbor and city to an
incalculable, an irreparable extent ; while, by throwing back the
existing water front, and altering the grades of the streets, an
immense deal of damage would be done upon private property.
And all for what ? Principally to enrich a few water-lot game-
sters, and perhaps put a little money in the exhausted exchequer
of the State. The pecuniary advantage of the transaction ta
the State was exceedingly doubtful at the best ; while it was
abundantly evident that interminable litigation and grievous loss
to private parties and to the port itself were sure to arise. A
large number of the members of the Legislature seem to have
been at all times opposed to the prosperity of San Francisco ;
and would fain lay upon it what has often been considered, — by
the citizens themselves, at all events, — more than a proportionate
share of the burdens of the State. In the case in question, if
even the government had the legal right to carry out the measure
proposed by the obnoxious bill, which right was disputed by able
and disinterested lawyers, the advantage to be derived by the
State was very jjaltry in comparison with the vast amount of
damage that would be occasioned to the city and individual citi-
zens. This consideration plead for mercy from the spoiler, but
it had httle effect. The Senate, like the House of Assembly^
seemed determined to kill the bird that laid the golden egg — ^for
such were the taxes that San Francisco, in its prosperity, paid
into the coffers of the State.

To show further the injustice and impropriety of the steps-
contemplated by the Extension Bill, we give an extract from a
Report made by a portion of the committee appointed by the Sen-
ate on the subject :

" The harbor known in 1849 as the harbor of San Francisco, flanked north
•.tnd south by the headlands of North and Rincon Points, and stretching in-
'.vards somewhat in the form of a crescent as far as Montgomery street, is now
ihiiost entirely filled up and occupied as the business part of the city. Tlie

"WATER FRONT EXTENSION. 441

boundary line of this, the eastern front, as fixed and declared permanent by
the 4th section of an act of the Legislature, passed March 26th, 1851, extends
even a little farther out into the bay than the headlands, and when the same
shall be fully built up to and improved, the city will have a water front of
sufficient extent and adequate depth of water to supply all the wants of her
commerce and trade. The farther extension of said front six hundred feet
into the bay would not materially increase the extent on the eastern front,
while a greater depth of water than the present front now enjoys, would not
be necessary to enable vessels of the largest class to lie at the wharves.

" So far, therefore, as the eastern front of the city is concerned, we can dis-
cover no public necessity or conveniency which demands any action on the
part of the Legislature, conflicting either in letter or spirit with the guarantee,
or at least the declaration, that ' the said boundary line shall be and remain a
permanent water front of said city,' contained in the act above referred to,

" The testimony taken by the committee conclusively shows that the ship-
ping of the harbor would be materially injured by the further extension.
Protection to the headlands, which is still to some extent enjoyed, would be
destroyed, and the roadstead between the city and Goat Island, with a rapid
current, and subject to strong south-easterly and north-westerly gales, would
be materially contracted. This acknowledged injury, it has been suggested,
can be counteracted by the erection of breakwaters off either or both North
and Rincon Points. In a bay with such a variety of powerful currents, it
would be difficult to predict the effect should such a plan be carried into exe-
cution. It might prove a greater injury to the water front than any yet in-
flicted upon it. But were the erection of breakwaters clearly demonstrated to
h^ of great service, the practicability of accomplishing such a task by the
State in so deep and turbulent a bay, by any expenditure within her means,
is extremely doubtful. Any appropriation adequate even to the commence-
ment of such a work, would, under Art. 8 of the Constitution, have to be sub-
mitted to the people for their approval.

" No necessity now exists for such a hazardous project, and it would be
truly impolitic to create a necessity for it by making the proposed extension.

'' But should the Legislature determine in any manner to extend the city
front, we are decidedly of opinion that the necessity or use of erecting break-
waters would follow ; and that if profit to the treasury should be a mo-
tive in making such extension, the connection of any breakwater scheme with
it would entail upon the treasury losses infinitely greater than any imaginary
or hoped-for profits could liquidate. The cost of breakwaters can only be
reckoned by millions, and if the State embarks in the project with the hope
that the proceeds of the sales of water lots will raise an adequate fund for
that purpose, she will surely be disappointed.

" The right of the State to sell lots in the place indicated would be ques-
tioned perhaps by men most anxious for the sale to proceed ; the title of the
State could not escape being clouded in the minds of purchasers, when it is
considered that a variety of interests adverse to the State would no doubt be
in active operation. With these interests the public are familiar, and from
one of them has proceeded the only proposition before the Legislature for an

442 AXNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

extension, and that proposition is based upon the assumption of a title adverse
to and independent of the State, coupled with the proffer of a partnership
interest of an entangling and intricate nature, as a consideration for the influ-
ence and autliority of the State in carrying into effect a plan which your com-
mittee believe destructive to commerce, injurious to the property of a large
class of citizens, and inconsistent in legislation.

" Respectful and temperate language cannot be employed in giving com-
plete expression to the sentiments entertained of this proposition, and there-
fore your committee refrain from further allusion to it."

The Keport, from which the above extract is taken, then
discusses at length the nature of the various rights claimable by
Congress, by the State, and by the city, to the land " covered
with water," in question ; and concludes thus : " Even if the
water front right, being a vested right, could be successfully ques-
tioned, lad foMli to the citizens of San Francisco would be truly
chargeable against the government, were an act passed by which
said water ftont privileges and advantages would be destroyed."

The united people of San Francisco, excepting always the
small clique of speculators already mentioned, considered that
all law, justice, and expediency, were opposed to the projected
extension ; the supporters of the bill in the Legislature could
only talk of the absolute and wilful right of the State to do what
it chose with its own pretended property, without regard to
those who might be ruined by its so doing. After several de-
bates, the bill came to a final vote in the Senate upon the 26t]i
of April, when thirteen members voted for, and the like number
against it. Happily, the president of the chamber, Lieutenant-
Governor Purdy, who in cases of parity possesses a casting vote,
gave his against the bill. Thus, by the narrowest chance, San
Francisco escaped this severe stroke. Perhaps the Peter Smith
speculators in extension water lots may at some future time
renew their attempt to carry out their views, and may persuade
even a majority of the Legislature — at all times jealous of the
greatness and independence of San Francisco — to further their
iniquitous schemes. The citizens, therefore, will require to be
ever watchful on this subject, until a constitutional and legal
declaration be obtained, and which will be beyond all cavil or
question, that the existing boundary line shall be really and truly
the permanent water front of the city.

UNITED STATES MARINE HOSPITAL.

443

April 7th. — The corner-stone hiid of the United States Ma-
rine Hospital, when the usual interesting ceremonies observed on
similar occasions, were performed. On the 10th of December,
1852, the mayor approved of an ordinance, which the common
council had passed, by which he was directed to convey to the
Government of the United States six fifty-vara lots, situated at

■ Unitud States Marine Hospital.

Rincon Point. These were iulcuded fur the situ of the magnifi-
cent structure, the corner-stone of which was laid to-day. The
building was erected in the course of this year (completed De-
cember 12th), and is now a striking ornament to the city. It is
built of brick, and is four stories high. It is 182 feet long by
96 feet wide. At one time five hundred patients can be com-
fortably lodged, while, in cases of necessity, so many as seven
hundred can be accommodated. The total cost has been about
a quarter of a million of dollars. This hospital has been built
and will be supported by the United States, from the fees paid
into the treasmy by the sailors of every American vessel entering
our ports. The sum of twenty cents a month is deducted from
their wages, and paid by the master of eveiy vessel to the custom-

444 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

house. In return, every sick and disabled seaman reaching San
Francisco is entitled to a certificate from the collector for admis-
sion to the hospital. As sailors under foreign flags pay no fees,
they are of course not entitled to the privileges of the institution.
This hospital and the State Marine Hospital sufficiently provide
at present for the wants of the sick in San Francisco. There
are several other hospitals of a semi-public or private nature,
which take care of such sick persons as may not be entitled to
admission into either of the two mentioned, or who may prefer
the accommodations of less public institutions.

April 11th. — The Jenny Lind steamer, when on her passage
, from Alviso to San Francisco, with about one hundred and twenty-
five passengers on board, met with a dreadful accident. At half-
past twelve o'clock, when nearly opposite the Pulgas Eanch, and
when the company on board were about sitting down to dinner in
the after cabin, a portion of the connecting steam-pipe was blown
asunder, and instantly the destructive vapor burst open the bulk-
head of the cabin, and swept into the crowded apartment.
Many were dangerously scalded, and a large number instantly
struck dead, by inhaKng the intensely heated atmosphere.
Thirty-one persons were either killed on the spot, or soon after-
wards died, from the effects of injuries received from the explo-
sion. This catastrophe occurring immediately after the losses of
so many fine steamships at sea, already noticed, excited much
sorrowful interest in the city.

CHAPTER XXV.

1853.

Ross's garden.— The German population. — May-day celebration by school-children. — Burning of the
Eassette House. — Mountain Lake Water Company.— General State Hospital. — Drinking houses. —
Clipper ships and short passages. — Military parade and celebration of 4th of July. — Dedication of
the First Congregational Church.— St. Mary's (Catholic) Church. — Unitarian Church.— Seamen's
Bethel. — Squatter difficulties. — Store-ships burned. — Strikes by mechanics and laborers for higher
■wages. — Anniversary of the German Turnverein. — City and county election. — Lafayette Hook
and Ladder Company organized. — The French inhabitants.— Sweeney & Baugh's electric telegraph.

May 1st. — May-day was celebrated by a large number of our Grer-
man citizens in the cheerful and imposing style observed in Father-
land. The Turner Gesang Verein (Gymnastic Musical Union)
took the most active part in the festivities. Dressed in loose
brown linen coats and pantaloons, proper for their exercises, they
marched, with banners flying, and musical instruments sounding,
to the gardens of Mr. Russ, near the Mission road. There
somewhere about eighteen hundred persons of German blood par-
ticipated in the different enjoyments of the day. They leaped,
balanced and twirled, danced, sang, drank, smoked and made
merry, as only such an enthusiastic race of mortals could. The
weather happened to be very fine, and the grounds seemed beau-
tiful beyond all expression of praise from the full heart that
could only enjoy, while it knew not and cared not why. Das
Deutsche Vaterland was chanted in the most rapturous manner,
and for the moment the different performers seemed to forget all
their native local distinctions and the very land that now gave
them shelter, to become in heart and spirit only members of the
one common brotherhood of Germans. Prizes to the best per-
formers in the various athletic and other games were distributed,
and several appropriate addresses were afterwards delivered.

The German population in San Francisco has always been

446 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

very large, and may now (1854) be estimated at between five
and six thousand. Tliey are an orderly and intelligent people,
and show fewer criminals than a proportionate number of any
other class of citizens. They learn the English language very
readily, and many of them are naturalized citizens. Very differ-
ent from the French population in this respect, they appear to
have little wish to return to their native country. When Ger-
mans do leave California, it is generally for the Atlantic States,
from whence most of them directly came. In San Francisco,
they take considerable interest in local affairs, and easily enter
into the spirit of the place. The different fire companies show
many Germans on their rolls. This people have a daily news-
paper in their own language, and at one time had two. They
also possess a school, and at different times have supported a
national theatre, while they often have both vocal and instru-
mental concerts. The professional musicians in San Francisco
are chiefly Germans. Various other occupations are extensively
and almost exclusively followed by them. The cigar and beer-
shops are chiefly kept by them. A large number of the Jews in
San Francisco are of German blood, many of whom are from
Prussian Poland,

Though comparatively few Germans intend to return to
Fatherland, they all bear a strong feeling towards it, and when
opportunity serves are always ready to celebrate their nationality
and praise the old country customs. Some of these are of an
interesting and most pleasing character, in which music generally
bears a leading part. Though usually somewhat phlegmatic
both in person and mind, and not so brilliantly gay as the
French, or so carelessly wanton in their mu'th as the Hispano-
Americans, the Germans are perhaps the most thoroughly cheer-
ful of all the national races in San Francisco. Though many of
them possess considerable proi)erty, they are not as a class distin-
guished for wealth ; and they are generally of a saving, and
sometimes a penurious character. Touch their nationality, or
their pecuniary interests, and they may spend money lavishly ;
but in most other matters they are totally opposed, in feeling
and behavior, to the princely extravagance of native Americans.
The Germans pursue all professions, while they monopolize a cer-

tJCHOOL-CHlLDREN S CELEBRATION.

447

tain few, and number some rich and many highly educated indi-
viduals among their people. Some of these have formed them-
selves into the Deutsches Club. The Germans have a society for
the protection of immigrants, and various other benevolent and
social institutions. Many of their naturalized citizens manifest

,l|;.'!:iiM

Lager Bier Politicians.

a lively interest in the politics of our country, which they discuss
with much warmth in their fevorite beer-house .

May 2d. — May-day happening upon Sunday, a procession of
school-children, to celebrate the occasion, took place the next
day. This was a new and pleasant sight in San Francisco, and
the event is worthy of being recorded. There were about a
thousand children of both sexes in the train. They appeared all
in holiday costume, the girls being dressed in white. Each one
carried a bouquet of fresh and beautiful flowers. There was the
usual " Queen of May," with her " Maids of Honor," and various
other characters, all represented by the juvenile players. The
children of seven schools bore distinctive banners. A fine band
of music accompanied the happy procession. After proceeding

448 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

through the principal thoroughfares, the children moved to the
school-house in Broadway. Here some pleasant ceremonies,
son<'-s, and occasional addresses took place, in which the children
themselves were the cliief actors. A repast of such delicate eat-
ables as suited youthful palates was next enjoyed, after which
the glad multitude dispersed.

About eleven o'clock on the evening of this day, the Rassette
House, at the corner of Bush and Sansome streets, and some of
the adjoining buildings, were destroyed by fire. The Eassette
House was a first-class hotel, well known in the city. It was a
frame building, of five stories in height, including the basement.
The fire began in a room above the kitchen, and in a few min-
utes spread over the enormous structure of dry timber. The
hotel happened to be well filled with lodgers at the time, nearly
all of whom were in bed when the flames broke out. There
were four hundred and sixteen boarders at the house, the most
of whom also lodged there. The horror and danger of their
situation, in the midst of such a combustible mass, may be ima-
gined, but can scarcely be described. A north-east wind was
blowing fresh at the time, and strong fears were entertained lest
the conflagration should spread over that district of the city
which had escaped all the great fires of 1850 and '51. The
firemen were early in attendance, and did all that men could do
in the circumstances. Though they could not save the blazing
pile of lumber, nor some of the neighboring houses, they pre-
vented the conflagration spreading beyond a limited, short dis-
tance. The loss of property was estimated at nearly $100,000,
without including the valuable property belonging to the many
lodgers in the Eassette House. Several of the inmates of the
latter building were severely burned, and it was supposed for a
considerable time that some had perished. A new hotel has
since been built on the same site. It is one of the most mas-
nificent, as it is the largest private edifice, devoted to a single
business, in the city.

In the week previous to that in which the fire just noticed
occurred, several very extensive conflagrations had taken place in
various districts of the city. However, the numerous fire-proof
brick tenements, and the rapid movements and unwearied exer-

MOUNTAIN LAKK WATKli COMPANY.

449

tions of the firemen, prevented these fires from spreading far.
The daring and persevering labors of the Fire Department were
constant themes of praise and public gratitude.

New Eassette House.

May 14th. — The origin and privileges of the Mountain Lake
Water Company have been already noticed. The commence-
ment of their works was this day celebrated by some imposing
ceremonies at the foot of the hill near the presidio. The com-
pletion of this important undertaking has been considerably de-
layed, and while we write the works are at a stand. Want of
funds is presumed to be the reason. The cost has far exceeded
the first calculations of the projectors. Doubtless the necessary
moneys will be raised before long, and the original project carried
fully out. No single measure is of so much vital importance to
the city as this, and all good citizens must wish well to the suc-
cess of the enterprise. Hitherto San Francisco has been chiefly
provided with fresh water from a considerable number of artesian

450 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

wells sunk in various parts of the city, and from supplies brought
in tanks by small steamers from Saucelito, on the opposite side
of the entrance to the bay. The water from all these sources is
deficient at the best, and its cost forms a considerable item in
the expenses of housekeepers. It is expected that the Mountain
Lake Water Company will be enabled, with a handsome profit
to itself, to supply millions of gallons daily of the softest and
purest fresh water at greatly lower rates than what are now being
paid for much smaller supphes. In a place like San Francisco,
so much exposed from position and circumstances to conflagra-
tion, the unlimited supply of water for extinguishing fires is par-
ticularly requisite ; and that will surely be obtained when this
company has completed its works. Its name is taken from the
Mountain Lake, which is but a small sheet of water, and of itself
could not yield the expected supplies. This lake has no visible
outlet. A few hundred yards from its northern margin, there
gushes thi'ough the ground a full stream of water, which is be-
lieved to be amply sufficient for all the purposes of a city thrice
the size of San Francisco. It is matter of doubt whether this
gTeat spring, or rather subterranean river, is the vent of the
small Mountain Lake, or whether it is not the open end of a
natural siphon, which discharges the rains and dews that fall
among the mountains on the opposite shores of the bay.

May 19th. — We have already noticed various acts of the Le-
gislature establishing a State Marine Hospital at San Francisco.
Of this date, an act was passed which considerably altered the
constitution of the existing establishment, and which was hence-
forward intended to be the sole general State Hospital in Califor-
nia. The administration of the hospital was declared to be under
the control of a board of five trustees, to be annually elected by
the Legislature, in joint convention. The trustees should them-
selves choose by ballot a president and vice-president from their
own number. A treasurer, with a salary of $2,000 should also be
chosen by them. The Legislature should elect every two years
two resident and two visiting physicians, the former to receive an-
nually the sum of $4,000, and the latter the same sum, each, in
both cases payable quarterly. Particular provisions are made in
the act as to the respective duties of the trustees, the treasurer

THE STATE HOSPITAL. 451

and physicians. All invalid persons desirous of being received
into the hospital should apply to the resident physicians or either
of them, and on their certificate should be admitted. Indigent
sick persons, not residents of any county in the State might like-
wise be admitted to the hospital, as State patients ; as also the
indigent sick of the city, upon such terms as the municipal au-
thorities and the board of trustees might determine. All the State
patients in the Sacramento and Stockton State Hospitals at the
time when these should be abolished by law should be admitted
as patients into the State Marine Hospital at San Francisco. There
should be set apart by the State Treasurer, as a hospital fund, the
net amounts accruing to the State Treasury, as follows, viz. : —
Three-fifths of the amount derived as a commutation or tax on
passengers arriving at the ports of the State, and the fines and
penalties collected by reason of a violation of the laws regulating
the same ; and all sums paid into the State Treasury for license
for auction, gaming, billiards, ten-pin or bowling alleys, hawkers
and peddlers, or collected as fines or penalties for a violation of the
same. Of the amounts derived from these several sources, the
one-half should be appropriated to the support and maintenance
of the State Marine Hospital at San Francisco, and the other half
should be distributed to each organized county in the State, pro-
portionably to the population of said counties, as a special fund,
to be appropriated exclusively to the support and maintenance of
the indigent sick of such counties respectively. It was, however,
provided that such allowance to the hospital at San Francisco
should not exceed the sum of $100,000, and that if it did not
amount to that sum then the State Comptroller should draw his
warrant for the deficiency, if the necessities of the hospital should
require it.

The State Marine Hospital at San Francisco is, while we
write, located in Stockton street, in a large and commodious
building (formerly at various periods, the American Hotel, the
Marine Hospital, the Kremlin, and the Clarendon Hotel), and
which is rented at a large sura. It has been much enlarged, and
was expressly fitted up for the purposes of a hospital. The sit-
uation is pleasant and healthy, although the inhabitants of the
adjacent houses have grumbled, with some reason, that such an

452 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

establishment should have been located in a thickly peopled and
fashionable part of the town. This hospital is efficiently conduct-
ed, and as might naturally have been expected, has been produc-
tive of much benefit to both foreigners and Americans. The
averao-e number of patients is about two hundred and fifty. The
only other State Hospital is one solely for insane persons at
Stockton.

June. — For some things San Francisco has been always par-
ticularly notorious. Among these may be mentioned its gambling
saloons and drinking bars. Many keepers of these places have
made large fortunes. A great proportion of the community still
gamble — the lower classes in public, and the upper, or richer
classes in private. Very many also continue the habit of occa-
sionally taking a daily " drink," or two ; while most of the in-
habitants take many more "drinks" than they would perhaps
care to confess to a rigidly sober acquaintance. In the Christian
Advocate (a San Francisco weekly newspaper), about this date,
there appeared some information which exhibits the intemperance
and dissipation of San Francisco in a very alarming light. Reli-
gious journals are not always trustworthy, especially in facts and
figures, when commenting on the vices of the age ; but in this
case there is ample room for all possible exaggeration in the state-
ments, and still there would be statistics enough left to grieve
the philanthropist. We copy the following from the Herald :

" The ditistian Advocate has found, by actual count, the whole number
of places where liquor is sold in this city to be five hundred and thirty-seven.
Of these, eighty-three are purely liquor, in retail line, and fifty-two wholesale ;
making one hundred and twenty-five places which do not keep an onion to
modify the traffic. Of the four hundred and twelve places where it is sold in
connection with other business, one hundred and forty-four are tavern restau-
rants ; one hundred and fifty-four groceries ; forty -six gambling-houses ; and
forty-eight supposed to be kept by bawds. Some of these appear genteel,
others are dance-houses and such like, where Chinese, Mexican, Chilian and
other foreign women are assembled. There were five hundred and fifty-six bar-
tenders present in the various places at the time when the memoranda were
taken. We think we may safely add one-quarter, if not one-third, as reserve
corps, making, including women, seven hundred and forty-three bar-tenders in
our city,"

These statements, in all conscience, make matters black and
and bad enough. Opposed to such an array — " seven hundred

CLIPPER SHIPS AND SHORT PASSAGES. 453

and forty-three bar-tenders ! " — all the " Sons of Temperance,"
the clergymen, churches, religious publications, Mercantile Libra-
ry Associations and the like, can hope to do little good for strict
sobriety. It happens to be the custom in San Francisco to take
a "drink" occasionally, while the great mass of the people either
have not, or will not avail themselves of any places of recreation
or of retirement at the close of daily labor and business other than
those where Uquor is sold. The usual active and speculative mode
of life at San Francisco encourages, if it does not necessarily lead
to much indulgence in intoxicating liquors. Yet though so many
are tasting again and again, in the course of the day, there is not
so much gross drunkenness visible as one might expect. Many
of the thirsty, better class San Franciscans are more tipplers than
downright drunkards. Among the lowest and the rowdy classes,
however, there is much brutal and degradins; drunkenness, the
effects of which are seen at all hours of day and night upon our
streets. It is in the mixed dance and driukino;-houses above no-
ticed, that so many noisy brawls and desperate assaults, often
ending in murders, chiefly take place, that make San Francisco
so infamous for its crimes. It is impossible at present completely
to close such places without bringing perhaps worse evils upon soci-
ety. Only time, a naturally better set of citizens, the example
and benefits of good men and good institutions, homes and do-
mestic society, and an improved public opinion, will gradually re-
duce the number of the haunts of vice, close the drinking and gam-
bling-saloons, and purify the general moral condition of the city.
We have already described the character of the "clipper ships"
which the trade and necessities of San Francisco created, and
have mentioned several of the shortest passages that had been per-
formed by these vessels between the Atlantic ports and our city.
These passages were the quickest that had ever been made. The
voyage from San Francisco to the Atlantic ports is generally ac-
complished in a considerably shorter period, which arises chiefly
from the prevalence of westerly winds in the region of Cape Horn,
by reason of which homeward-bound shij)s are speedily wafted
round that dreaded place, where usually so much delay is caused
to outward-bound vessels. The NoHhern Light sailed from San
Francisco, on the 13th of March this year, and arrived at Boston

454

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

on the 29th May thereafter, thus accomplishing the voyage in the
wonderfully short space of seventy-six days. This is the fastest
passage that has ever been made between the places by any ship,
not a steamer.

^-^z-.

First Congrec.itional Church.

July 4th. — Independence-day this year was chiefly remarka-
ble in San Francisco for the first battalion parade of the military
companies. These, numbering seven in all, inclusive of the " Sutter
Rifles," from Sacramento City, which were here on a visit, form-
ed into line and passed in review before Major G-eneral John A.
Sutter and a brilHant staff. The benevolent and true hearted old

UNITARIAN CHURCH. 455

pioneer was rapturously welcomed wherever lie appeared. The
battalion afterwards marched to the gardens of Mr. Russ, about a
mile and a half from the plaza, where Mrs. C.N. Sinclair present-
ed it with a set of colors.

Independence-day being the great annual festival of the Ame-
rican people, was otherwise celebrated in the usual manner. The
Irish population turned out in large numbers, and marched in
procession through the city, preceded by a band of music. In
the evening there was a discharge of fireworks on the plaza, at the
city's expense.

July 10th. — Dedication of the new First Congregational
Church, at the south-w. corner of Dupont and California streets.
This is a very elegant brick building, and forms one of the stri-
king ornaments of the city. It is sixty feet in front, by one hun-
dred feet deep, and is seated for about twelve hundred persons.
According to the plan there is to be a steeple one hundred and
sixty feet in heiglit, but this has been as yet only raised to the
top of the tower, leaving the spire to be constructed at some fu-
ture date. The cost of the building was $40,000. The pastor
of the congregation, the Rev. T, D wight Hunt, was the first regu-
lar clergyman in San Francisco.

July 17th. — The various religious bodies of the city are
gradually improving the style of their churches. The old, small
wooden buildings that served the purposes of religious meeting-
houses well enough a few years back are being discarded, and
magnificent brick structures are rising in their stead. This day
the corner-stone of a new Roman Catholic church was laid, at
the north-east corner of Dupont and California streets, with the
many imposing ceremonies performed on similar occasions by that
body of Christians. A long train of priests and dignitaries offici-
ated on the occasion. The building, St. Mary's, is still in course
of erection.

The same day the dedication of the First Unitarian Church
took place. The exterior of this church is not yet finished ; the
interior is very fine. It is situated on Stockton street, near Sa-
cramento street. The services at the dedication were conducted
by the pastor of the church, the Rev. F. T. Gray.

These are among the most imposing and substantial edifices

456

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

for public religious worship that have yet been erected in the
city. The most of the other churches are still of wood. Among
them may be noticed that eminently UBefiil place the Seaman's
Chapel, or Bethel. This structure has been formed upon the hull
of an old forsaken ship, and exhibits a remarkably chaste and
beautiful interior. As congregations get larger and wealthier,

Unitarian Church.

the many churches constructed of frame which are now existing
will gradually be supplanted by handsome edifices of brick or
stone, in conformity with the improved character of other build-
ings throughout the city.

July 20th. — The under-sheriff, John A. Freaner, was shot on
Mission street by one Redmond McCarthy, a " squatter," when
the former, in the performance of his duty, was endeavoring to
execute a writ of ejectment against the latter. Revolvers were
produced and fired by both parties, and both were severely
wounded. The circumstance is particularly mentioned as illus-
trative of the " times " in San Francisco. About this period the

SQUATTER DIFFICULTIES. 457

" squatters " on city lands became suddenly more numerous and
darino- than ever. These were not like the lesritimate " settlers,"
who took possession of vacant unclaimed lands, under the ordina-
ry pre-emption laws of the United States. On the contrary,
many of the squatters seized upon lands known to be claimed by
others, and who held them by the strongest legal titles known.
As these titles, however, happened in almost all cases to have
some nice legal doubt affecting them, "squatters" settled the
matter in their own way, and at once forcibly seized upon every
piece of ground that had no permanent improvements made upon
it. They " squatted " every where ; not only on choice lots along
the line of public streets, and among the distant sand hills, but
on the public and private burying grounds and on the open
squares of the city. If they had the least colorable title adverse
to the party in constructive possession, good and well ; but gene-
rally there was no other right pretended than that of force. The
intruder displayed only his six-shooter and with a scowl and a
sullen curse would mutter to the offended owner — My title is as
good as yours ; I have now the ground, and I will keep if, ay,
until death. Out of the way ! Of course those who considered
themselves the proper owners were not inclined tamely to sub-
mit to this violation of their rights. Sometimes they took coun-
sel and aid from the law, but nearly as often they met the in-
vader with his own weapons, the axe to destroy fences and build-
ings, and the revolver to frighten or kill his antagonist. Hired
persons on both sides sometimes helped to carry on the war.
Occasionally one " squatter " would envy, and seek to steal the
already stolen possession of another ; and then both would have
a bloody fight about the matter. " To the victors belonged the
spoils."

Many lives were lost in these savage contests, and bitter en-
mity engendered among rival claimants. The law was almost
powerless to redress wrong and punish guilt in such cases. It
said that the owner of ground was entitled by every means in his
power, to prevent unlawful and hostile intrusion upon it ; and
thus men had not the slightest scruple to use fire-arms upon all
occasions. In the confusion and conflict of adverse titles, it could
not be instantly determined who were the true owners, and

458 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

judges therefore could not punish the trespassers and murder-
ers. If even the title of one slain in such a struggle were clear,
juries could not be found who would bring in the slayer guilty
of murder. His plea, however false and ridiculous, of supposed
title to the ground which was the cause of the fatal dispute, was
always held sufficient to save him from any verdict that would
justify the extreme penalty of the law. Probably one or more
of the jurors themselves had committed similar outrages, and
would not condemn in the prisoner their own principles of action,
and weaken the titles to their own properties. It was supposed
that many of these " squatters " were secretly instigated in their
reckless proceedings by people of wealth and influence, who en-
gaged to see their pupils out of any legal difficulty into which
they might fall. Such wealthy speculators shared, of course, in
the spoils of the proceedings. To this day, many of the most
valuable districts in and around San Francisco are held by
" squatter's titles," which had been won perhaps at the cost of
bloodshed, and in defiance of other titles, that, if not the best in
law, had at least a colorable show, and should have been always
strong enough to resist the strong-hand claim of the mere robber.
In this way the city itself, the great victim of real estate specu-
lators, " squatters " and plunderers, has lost, for a time at least,
much of its remaining property. The new charter, if passed by
the Legislature, will make many of these temporary losses, final
and irretrievable ones. If it were desirable to enlarge on this
painful subject, as showing the independent and lawless state of
society in California, a history might be given of the great gang
of squatters who have stolen the broad rich acres of the native
Peraltas on the opposite side of the bay, in Contra Costa. How-
ever, it is sufficient merely to mention the subject, in illustration
of the Hke practices that had been long carried on, and at this
time seemed to be at their height in San Francisco and its en-
virons.

July 2-:l.th. — Fire broke out in the store-ship Manco, which
lay in close proximity to the wharves, near the corner of
Mission and Stewart streets. The store-ship Canonicus — an
old "forty-niner," — which was moored alongside, next caught
fire. The firemen turned out, as usual, but from the want of

STRIKES FOR HIGHER WAGES. 459

proper resting-places found much difficulty in working their
engines with effect. There happened to be a large quantity of
gunpowder on board the Manco at the time, the knowledge of
which fact, when circulated, speedily sent to a respectful distance
the curious crowd that had gathered on the neighboring ships,
and wlierever they could procure a view of what was going on.
The firemen, however, gallantly stuck to their posts, and poured
vast quantities of water into the hold of the burning ship. By
these means the powder was so damped that only partial explo-
sions of small quantities took place. At last, the ship was scut-
tled, and she sank iu shallow water. The flames continued, and
were only extinguished a considerable time afterwards. The loss-
es sustained by both the Manco and Canonicus were estimated
at about $50,000.

July — August. — There was a succession of " strikes " during
these months, among most classes of mechanics and laborers,
when wages were generally raised from fifteen to twenty per cent.
The following may be quoted, as being the average rate of daily
wages payable at this time to journeymen : — Bricklayers, $10 ;
stone-cutters, §10 ; ship carpenters and caulkers, $10 ; plaster-
ers, $9 ; house carpenters, $8 ; blacksmiths, $8 ; watchmakers
and jewellers, $8 ; tinners, $7 ; hatters (but few employed), $7
painters and glaziers, $6 ; tenders, $5 ; 'longshoremen, $6
tailors, $4 ; shoemakers, $100 per month, without boarding
teamsters, $100 to $120 per month, finding themselves ; firemen
on steamers, $100 per month ; coal-passers, $75 per month ;
farm hands, $50 per month, and fo.und. These wages are at
least five times higher than what are paid similar workers in
the Atlantic States ; while they are about double the highest
rates of wages that are now (1854) given mechanics and laborers
in the gold-producing country of Austraha. Most trades and
occupations other than those above named were paid equally well.
The printers, who have been always a highly remunerated class,
could earn, according to skill and employment, from $10 to $15
a day. Perhaps the former sum may be taken as a low average.
As we have elsewhere said, there is no place in the world where
so high remuneration is given for labor — useful, wanted labor, as
in San Francisco. The rates above mentioned do not vary much

460 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

in the course of the year ; and may, in 1854, be still quoted as
nearly correct. At the same time it should be mentioned that
it is not always the case that the applicant can find constant
employment at his particular trade. However, if necessity
should compel him to work for a time at an inferior occupa-
tion, and provided only he have bodily strength, he may always
fairly calculate in finding employment as a laborer in coarse
work, or in doing odd jobs, at from $3.50 to $5 a day. The im-
migrant, however, must work at something, unless he means to
starve outright. The expenses of living are very much greater
in San Francisco than in the dearest of the Atlantic cities, while
there is very little charity or sympathy bestowed on idle, healthy
men. People who would honestly succeed in this country must
be prepared to turn their hand and attention to any kind of labor
that promises to pay, no matter how disagreeable, or how little
used to it may be the hesitating beginner. That has been the
case with many of the most respectable and wealthy citizens, who
at earlier times in San Francisco have been without a dime in
their pocket or a friend to give them a gratuitous meal. They
had to strip to the shirt, and earn the beginning of their present
fortunes by " the sweat of their brow." If all employment
should by possibility fail in the city, the robust immigrant has still
the gold mines to fall back upon for sustenance and wealth, as
well as the rich unclaimed lands of the United States, that seek
only a tiller to produce marvellous crops, or he may always se-
cure a situation as an agricultural laborer for others. Again,
then, we say, there is no country in the world to be compared for
wages and profits to California. It is emphatically the poor
working-man's paradise on earth,

August 14th. — The second anniversary of the German
Turnverein (the gymnasts already noticed) was observed to-day,
in the park of Dr. Wedekind, in the southern quarter of the city.
This afiair was a very grand one with the whole German race
here ; and nearly three thousand persons participated in the fes-
tivities of the occasion. Besides Dr. Wedekind's grounds, the
gardens of Mr. Russ adjoining were thrown open to the people,
■where athletic games and many amusing sports, music, dancing
and singing, and the indispensable smoking and drinking were

CITY AND COUNTY ELECTION. 461

kept up till a late hour at night. The amusements were resumed
on the following day.

September 7th. — The annual election of city and county of-
ficers. The following parties were chosen : —

Senate.
E. J. Moore, Samuel Brannan, and subsequently on

W. M. Lent (for short term), hu resignation, David Mahoney.

Assembly.

J. C. Hubbard, A. A. Green, N. Hubert,

E. P. Purdy, W. J. Swasey, Elijah Nichols,

F. W. KoU, J. W. Bagley, James A. Gilbert.

Sheriff. — "William R. Gorham.
County Judge. — T. W. Freelon (J. D. Creigh, to Jill vacancy.)
District Attorney. — Henry H. Byrne. County Clerk. — Thos. Hayes.
County Recorder. — James Grant. County Treasurer. — G. W. Green.

County Surveyor. — James J. Gardner. Coroner. — J. "W". Whaling.
Public Administrator. — S. A. Sheppard. County Assessor. — J. W. Stillman.

Mayor. — 0. K. Garrison.
Recorder. — Geo. W. Baker. Taa: Collector. — W. A. Matthews.

Comptroller. — Stephen R. Harris. City Attoimey. — S. A. Sharp.

Treasurer. — Hamilton Bowie. Street Commissioner. — John Addis.

-Marshal. — B. Seguine. Harbor Master. — Robert Haley.

Clerk of the Supreme Court. — Henry Haskell.
Assessors. — Robert Kerrison. Jas. H. Keller, Richard Parr.

Aldermen.
H. ]\Ieiggs, Richard M. Jessup, John D. Brower, John Nightingale,

Chas. 0. West, Joseph F. Atwill, D. H. Haskell, Jas. Van Ness.

Assistant Aldermen.

Chas. H. Corser, Geo. 0. Ecker, Wm. H. Talmage, Saml. Gardner,
C. D. Carter, J. R. West, Frank Turk, J. G. W. Schulte.

On this occasion the proposed new charter of the city, framed
by the delegates already mentioned, was submitted to the people
for their approval or rejection. There were given for it 747
votes, and against it 620 ; showing a majority of 127 votes in
its favor. In all the wards, except the 2d and 8th, there were
-considerable majorities against it. In the 2d ward, the numbers
were nearly equal ; and in the 8th almost the whole votes were
for it. The people, except perhaps in the last-named ward,
seemed to take little interest in the proposed measure.

September 19th. — The French inhabitants of the city organ-

462

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

ized among themselves the " Laftxyette Hook and Ladder Com-
pany." The uniform they adopted was that common to firemen
in France. We have at different places alluded to the public
spirit of this class of citizens, and their appearance in large
bodies on occasions of public ceremonial. They are nearly as
numerous as the Grermans in San Francisco, and may now (1854)

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French Shoeblacks.

number about 5000 persons of both sexes. They preserve many
of their national characteristics, and do not seem capable of thor-
oughly adopting American thoughts and fashions. But a small
proportion seek to become naturalized citizens, and they do not
readily acquire our language. California, and America itself, are
but places where money may be made to enable them to return
to their own land in Europe. In San Francisco they have mo-
nopolized many professions of a semi-artistic character. They are
the chief shoeblacks and hairdressers, cooks, wine importers and
professional gamblers. In the first-named capacity, they form

THE FRENCH INHABITANTS. 463

one of the street features of the place. They are posted at
many of the prominent corners, with seats for their customers,
whose boots they are ever ready to polish at the charge of
twenty-five cents ; and some of them have at this singular busi-
ness gathered money enough to open shops, neatly furnished, for
the same purposes. It is not uncommon to see a dozen of these
shoeblacks in a row upon the edge of the side-walks, scouring and
scrubbing away at the muddy or dusty boots of their patrons.
But besides these occupations, this people pursue all other call-
ings here, and many of them are among the most distinguished,
wealthy and respectable inhabitants of the city. They are par-
tial to public amusements, and have often a theatre open, when
plays, vaudevilles and operas in their own language are performed.
They have a society for the relief of poor immigrants, besides
several other benevolent associations. Two tri-weekly newspa-
pers are published in their language, a portion of one of which
is written in Spanish.

The presence of the French has had a marked influence upon
society in San Francisco. Skilled workmen of their race have
decorated the finer shops and buildings, while their national taste
and judicious criticism have virtually directed the more chaste
architectural ornaments, both on the exterior and in the interior
of our houses. Their polite manners have also given an ease to
the ordinary intercourse of society which the unbending Ameri-
can character does not naturally possess. The expensive and
fashionable style of dressing among the French ladies has greatly
encouraged the splendid character of the shops of jewellers, silk
merchants, milliners and others whom women chiefly patronize,
while it has perhaps increased the general extravagance among
the whole female population of the city.

There are in San Francisco many natives of Switzerland and
Alsace, those debatable lands between the French and German
people. The Alsatians are claimed, and sometimes rejected by
both. There does not seem much sympathy between the rival
races, less a great deal than is between either of them and the
Americans. The French complain that they are not treated so
kindly by the last as are the Grermans. The reason seems obvi-
ous. It is because they do not take the same pains to learn the

464

ANNALS OF SAN FEANCISCO.

Americau language and character. The naturalized Germans
are professed and acknowledged brethren ; the French — foreign
in manner and physical appearance, in thoughts and hopes — can
never be considered as such. The occasional devotion of Germans
to old Fatherland does not so fill their hearts that they become
insensible to the numberless political and social blessings which

Outer Telegraph Station.

they receive in their adopted country. But the wild glorification
of Frenchmen to every thing connected with their beautiful
France, is often a neglectful insult to the land that shelters them,
and which they would ignore, even although they seek not to
become its permanent citizens. Both races have played a prom-
inent part in the industrial history of San Francisco, and in that
of California generallj^ Their numbers are very large in the
various mining districts ; while, as we have seen, they form a con-
siderable proportion of the population of the city. They are not
the dominant spirits of the place — for these are of the true Ameri-
can type that ever cry go ahead ! — but they help to execute what
the national lords of the soil, the restless and perhaps unhappy-
people of progress contrive. The character of a man may at
least partially be inferred from his " drinks." The true Germans-
dote on lager-bier — and they are a heavy, phlegmatic, unambi-

FIKoT LLECTRIC TELEGRAPH IN CALIFORNIA.

465

tious race ; the French love hght wines — and they are as sparkUng
yet without strength or force of character ; the genuine Yankee
must have a burning spirit in his multitudinous draughts — and
he is a giant when he begins to work, tearing and trampling over
the impossibilities of other races, and binding them to his abso-
lute, insolent will.

^.-^^ssi'^s-^

Inner Telegraph Station.

September 22d. — Opening of the first electric telegraph
in California celebrated. This extended eight miles, between
San Francisco and Point Lobos, and was erected by Messrs.
Sweeny & Baugh, to give early information of shipping arrivals.
Early in 1849 this enterprising firm had erected a station-
house on Telegraph Hill, which commanded a view of the
entrance to the Golden Gate and the ocean in that immediate
vicinity ; and having adopted a variety of appropriate signals,
well understood by merchants and others in the city, were ena-
bled to give early intimation of the ajiproach and peculiar char-
acter of all vessels coming into the harbor. This proved of im-
mense value to newspaper publishers and other business men,
from whom the enterprise received a liberal patronage, it being
principally supported by voluntary contributions. Thus encour-
aged, Messrs, Sweeny & Baugh afterwards established another
30

466 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

station at Point Lobos, overlooking tlie ocean, from which, on a
clear day, vessels may be distinguished many miles distant.
This station is in full view of that on Telegraph Hill, which, re-
ceivino- early signals from it, communicated them at once to the
citizens, who were thus apprised of the arrival many hours before
the vessel entered the harbor. The electric telegraph is still
another improvement, and increases materially the facilities pre-
viously afforded by the method of signalling. Occasionally
heavy fogs prevented the signals from being intelligible, or even
seen which difficulty is measurably obviated by the electric tele-
graph. The proprietors have also established in Sacramento
street, near Montgomery, a Merchants' Exchange, supported by
subscription, in the spacious rooms of which are always to be
found the latest papers from all parts of the world. These
enterprises have proved exceedingly lucrative to their projectors.

CHAPTER XXVI.
1853.

Important legal decision of the Supreme Court confirming Alcaldes' grants.— Burning of the St.
Francis Hotel. — Opening of the telegi-aph communication to Marysville. — Lone Mountain Ceme-
tery. — Anniversary of the day of St. Francis. — The Mission Dolores. — The Spanish races in Cali-
fornia. — The Custom House Block. — The steamship Winfield Soott wreclied. — Election of officers
of the Fire Department. — The Sonorian Filibusters. — Opening of the Metropolitan Theatre. —
Great sales of water lots. — Montgomery block.

October 13th. — The most important decision ever given by
the Supreme Court of California was pronounced to-day in the
case of Cohas vs. Rosin and Legris. Previous decisions both of
this and the lower legal tribunals had established principles which
unsettled the city titles to nearly every lot of ground within the
municipal boundaries, and mightily encouraged squatterism. By
these decisions, one title had just seemed as good or as bad as
another ; possession being better than any. The alarming conse-
quences of these doctrines forced both bench and bar into further in-
quiries and minute researches into the laws, usages and customs of
Spanish or Mexican provinces and towns. The new information thus
acquired was brought to bear upon the suit above named, where
principles were evolved and a precedent formed of the utmost
consequence to the community, and which have nearly settled,
though not quite, the " squatter " questions. The decision was
pronounced by Judge Heydenfeldt, and was concurred in by
Chief Justice Murray (although upon somewhat different grounds)
and Judge Wells. Without entering upon the merits of the
particular case in question we give the " conclusions " come to :

" Firstly, That by the laws of Mexico, towns were invested with the
ownership of lands.

" Secondly, That by the law, usage and custom in Mexico, alcaldes were
the heads of the Ayuntamientos, or Town Councils, were the executive officers

4C8

ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO,

of the towns, and rightfully exercised the power of granting lots within the
towns, which were the property of the towns.

" T/iirdlij, That before the military occupation of California by the array
of the United States, San Francisco was a Mexican pueblo, or municipal cor-
poration, and entitled to the lands within her boundaries.

" Foitrthli/, That a grant of a lot in San Francisco, made by an alcalde,
whether a Mexican or of any other nation, raises the presumption that the
alcalde was a properly qualified officer, that he had authority to make the
grant, and that the land was within the boundaries of the pueblo."

St. Francis Hotel immediately after the fire.

These conclusions sustain all alcaldes' grants in the city, no
matter though the alcalde himself had been illegally appointed
and had made a dishonest use of his power. By this decision —
all opposing precedents having been expressly set aside by the
court— many notoriously fraudulent alcalde grants have been legal-
ized ; but that seems a small price to pay for the full assurance
of title now given to the proprietors of the most valuable part
of the ground within the municipal bounds.

October 22d. — Destruction by fire of the St. Francis Hotel,
at the corner of Dupont and Clay streets. This was a famous
house in the history of San Francisco. It was built in the fall
of 1849, and in the basement story the polls were held of the

LONE MOUNTAIN CEMETERY. 469

first State election. It was afterwards converted into a first-
class hotel. The structure was composed of the sliglitest and
most inflammable materials ; and it had long been matter of sur-
prise that it had escaped the many conflagrations which had so
repeatedly destroyed great portions of the city. When, at last,
it was consumed, people were not only no whit surprised, but
many were absolutely glad that it was so, since the danger of
its long anticipated burning spreading to the neighboring tene-
ments was thereby put an end to. The strenuous exertions of
the firemen confined the fire to the building in which it originated.
The damage was estimated at $17,000. One lodger was burned
to death ; and several firemen were very severely injured by the
flames. The masterly eftbrts of the Fire Department on this oc-
casion were much praised.

October 24th. — First telegraphic communication between
San Francisco and Marysville. This was the completion of the
line of the State Telegraph Company, already noticed. The
whole length of the wire is two hundred and six miles ; and it
was erected in seventy-five days. The rates charged were, and
are now as follows : From San Francisco to Stockton, Sacra-
mento or Marysville, two dollars for the first ten words ; and for
each additional five words, seventy-five cents. From San Fran-
cisco to San Jose, for the first ten words, one dollar, and for each
additional five words forty cents.

November. — The " Lone Mountain Cemetery " j)rojected.
A tract of land three hundred and twenty acres in extent, lying
between the presidio and the mission, is to be laid out in a pro-
per manner as a new resting-place for the dead, the cemetery of
Yerba Buena being considered, by the planners of the new
grounds, too near the city for a permanent burial-place. The
new cemetery is located near the well-known " Lone Mountain,"
situated three or four miles west of the plaza. From the sum-
mit of this beautifully shaped hill may be obtained one of the
finest and most extensive views of land and water. At the date of
writing, very material and expensive improvements are being made
upon the grounds, to adapt them for the purposes of a cemetery.

November 9th. — The day of St. Francis, the anniversary
of the foundation of the Mission Dolores, in 1776. In the pre-

470

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

ceding pages, occasional allusions have been made to the for-
mer grand'eur and subsequent decline of this mission. At present,
the chief thing worthy of notice about the place is the old church.
This is constructed of adobes, and is a spacious building. The
exterior is partially whitewashed and is very plain in appearance,
although the front pretends to some old-fashioned architectural

Interior of a Mission Church.

decorations, and shows several handsome bells. The capacious
interior is dark, cold and comfortless. The walls and roof are
roughly painted, and upon the former are several common paint-
ings of saints and sacred subjects. The ornaments upon and
around the great altar are of the tinsel character usually adopted
in ordinary Eoman Catholic churches. It is presumed they are
of no great pecuniary value. Public worshij) is still regularly
celebrated in tliis huge and gloomy temple. The usual audiences
are a few women, whose features and dress proclaim their Spanish
origin. If any of the fast-thinking, doing and living people of
San Francisco could be induced to " pause and moralize a while,"
there is no spot so fitted to encourage the unwonted mood, as
the dismal, silent and deserted interior of the Mission Church.

THE SPANISH RACES. 471

There is an awe and apparent holiness about the place which the
casual heretical visitor cares not to disturb, as he perhaps hum-
bly kneels on the dam]>, earthen floor, and worships in secret
his own God. A walk round the small graveyard attached to
the church will only deepen his meditation as he gazes on the
tombs of departed pioneers and gold-hunters, and reflects upon
the glory of the ancient patriarchal times of tame Indians and
their ghostly keepers.

The mission has always been a favorite place of amusement
to the citizens of San Francisco. Here, in the early days of the
city, exhibitions of bull and bear fights frequently took place,
which attracted great crowds ; and here, also, were numerous
duels fought, which drew nearly as many idlers to view them. At
present, there are two race-courses in the neighborhood, and a
large number of drinking-houses. Two plank-roads lead thither
from the city, upon both of which omnibuses run every half hour.
The mission lies within the municipal bounds, and probably will
soon be united with the city by a connected line of buildings. The
highway to San Jose and the farther south, runs through the vil-
lage, while around it are fine green hills and fertile fields, and
hotels and places of public recreation. These things all make the
old home of the "fathers" a place of considerable importance to
our health and pleasure seekers. On fine days, especially on Sun-
days, the roads to the mission show a continual succession, pass-
ing to and fro, of all manner of equestrians and pedestrians, and
elegant open carriages filled with ladies and holiday folk.

Since we have given elsewhere short separate notices of some
of the leading races, not American, that people San Francisco,
we may here say a few words upon that one which first settled in
the country — the Spanish. Over the whole of California, there
may be probably about 20,000 persons of Spanish extraction ;
and in San Francisco alone, some 3,000. It is of the last only
that we would speak. Few of them are native Californians. Per-
haps one-half of the number are Mexicans, and one-third Chilians.
The remaining sixth consists of Peruvians and natives of Old Spain,
and of parts of Spanish America other than Mexico, Chili and
Peru. The Hispano- Americans, as a class, rank far beneath the
French and Germans. They are ignorant and lazy, and are con-

472 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

eequcntly poor. A few of their number may have a high social
standing in the city, while some more bear a respectable position.
For these there is one page of a French tri-weekly newspaper
written in the Spanish language. It is not of them, nor of the
few native Californians, who are gentlemen by nature, that
we speak, but of the great mass of the race. Many of the Chili-
ans are able both to read and write ; few of the Mexicans can.
Both peoples, when roused by jealousy or revenge, as they often
are, will readily commit the most horrid crimes. In proportion
to their numbers, they show more criminals in the courts of law
than any other class. The Mexicans seem the most inferior of the
race. They have had no great reason to love the American cha-
racter, and, when safe opportunity offers, are not slow to show
detestation of their conquerors. The sullen, spiteful look of the
common Mexicans in California is very observable. The Chilians
in the time of the "Hounds" were an oppressed and despised
people. Since that period the class has perhaps improved. The
Hispano-Americans fill many low and servile employments, and
in <>-eneral engage only in such occupations as do not very severe-
ly tax either mind or body. They show no ambition to rise be-
yond the station where destiny, dirt, ignorance and sloth have
placed them. They seem to have no wish to become naturalized
citizens of the Union, and are morally incapable of comprehend-
ino- the spirit and tendencies of our institutions. The most infe-
rior class of all, the proper " greaser," is on a par with the com-
mon Chinese and the African ; while many negroes far excel the
first-named in all moral, intellectual and physical respects.

The Hispano-Americans dwell chiefly about Dupont, Kearny
and Pacific streets — long the blackguard quarters of the city. In
these streets, and generally in the northern parts of the city, are
many dens of gross vice, which are patronized largely by Mexicans
and Chilians. Their dance, drink and gambling houses are also
the haunts of negroes and the vilest order of white men. In the
quarrels which are constantly arising in such places many treach-
erous, thieving and murderous deeds are committed. A large
proportion of the common Mexican and Chilian women are still
what they were in the days of the " Hounds," abandoned to lewd
practices, and shameless.

firemen's election.

473

The larc-e and eles^ant biiildino; called " Custom-House Block,"
at the south-east corner of Sansome and Sacramento streets, was
completed and partially occupied during this month. It was con-
structed at a cost, exclusive of the land, of $140,000 ; and is
a substantial structure, three stories high, besides a basement,
fronting eighty feet on Sansome and one hundred and eighty-five

pLMjjaji-^li

V BLOC K "■><•

ti.iil li'iiii

Custom-House Block,

feet on Sacramento street. The various offices connected with the
custom-house and naval department, besides a billiard room, and
sundry other offices and stores, are in the second and third stories.

December 2d. — The mail steamship Winfidd Scott, on her
way from San Francisco to Panama, was wrecked on the rocky
and desolate Island of Anacapa, near the Island of Santa Cruz,
off Santa Barbara. The passengers and most of the mail bags
were saved, but the ship was a total loss. The accident was caus-
ed by dense fogs and ignorance of the exact position of the ship,

December 5th. — Annual election of the Fire Department,
when the following officers were chosen : Chief Engineer. —

474 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

Charles P. Duane. Assistant Engineers.— K A. Ebbetts, Joseph
Caprise and Charles F. Simpson.

December 13th. — The Barque Anita sailed with about two
hundred and forty volunteers to join a small band of adventurers
that had lately left San Francisco on a filibustering expedition
a<>-ainst Lower California and Sonora. The circumstances at-
tending this expedition show in a remarkable manner the wild
and restless spirit that influences so many of the people of Cali-
fornia. Not content with their own large territory, much of
which is still unexplored, and nearly all of which that is known
is characterized by extraordinary richness in minerals, fertility of
soil beauty of scenery, and mildness and salubrity of climate —
by everything, in short, that could tempt an energetic immigrant
to develope its unusual advantages — many of our restless people
sio-hed for new countries, if not like Alexander for new worlds, to
see and conquer. The Mexican province of Sonora had long been
reputed to be among the richest mineral regions in the world.
Its mines, however, had never been properly developed. The
Mexican character is not a very enterprising one. At the same
time, the ravages of the numerous tribes of warlike Indians that
inhabit many parts of Sonora and its frontier, had farther checked
all efforts to work the known gold and silver mines there. The
country otherwise was a fine agricultural and pastoral one ; and,
if slaves could only be introduced to cultivate and reap the teem-
ins: fields, the owners would draw immense revenues from them.
To conquer, or steal this rich country, was therefore a very desira-
ble thing. That it belonged in sovereignty to a friendly and
peaceable power, and that some seventy thousand white people in-
habited and possessed the land, appeared matters of no great con
sequence. The government of Mexico was a worthless one, sure-
ly, and the citizens of Sonora were, or should be, dissatisfied with
it, and had a right to rebel, and caU upon foreigners to aid them
in their rebellion. If they did not, why, their culpable negli-
gence was certainly no fault of the filibusters. The Sonorians
ought to rise, proclaim their independence, and cry for help from
all and sundry. That was enough. The filibusters needed no
particular invitation. They were determined to succor the poor
Sonorians, and themselves .; and so they gathered together with

THE SONORA FILIBUSTERS. 475

arms and ammunition for the purpose. Walker was another
Lopez ; Sonora, another Cuba.

About a twelvemonth before this date the grand scheme was
first projected, and during the following summer was matured.
Scrip was largely printed and circulated at fair prices among
speculative jobbers. This paper was to be redeemed by the first
proceeds of the new government. The nominal and perhaps real
leader of the movement was a gentleman, William Walker to
wit, who has already figured in these pages, as the champion of
the press and popular rights against the alleged corrupt judiciary
of former times. Walker is said to be personally a brave, highly
educated and able man, whatever may be thought of his discre-
tion and true motives of conduct in the expedition. He seems
to have taken a high moral and political position in the aft'air,
though his professions were peculiar and their propriety not
readily admitted by downright sticklers for equity and natural
justice. A few of his coadjutors were perhaps also men of a
keen sense of honor, who forgot, or heeded not, in the excitement
of the adventure, the opinions of mere honest men upon the sub-
ject. But the vast majority of Walker's followers can only be
viewed as desperate actors in a time filibustering or robbing spe-
culation. The good of the wretched and Apache-oppressed So-
norians was not in their thoughts. If they succeeded, they might
lay the sure foundations of fortunes ; if they failed, it was only
time and perhaps life lost. In either event, there was a grand
excitement in the game.

What Americans generally are to other nations, so are the
mixed people of California to Eastern Americans themselves.
All the impulsive characteristics of the natives of the Atlantic
States are on the Pacific carried out to excess. Americans, and
particularly those in California, are not altogether devoted to
money ; they oftentimes love change and excitement better.
The golden gains to be sometimes won here by strange specula-
tions early engendered a most restless disposition in society.
The adventurous character of the succeeding immigrants readily
received the impress and spirit of the place. What, our people
seem to think, is the worth of life, wanting emotion, warjting ac-
tion ? At whatever hazard, most persons here must have occa-

476 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

sional excitement— new speculations, leading to personal adven-
ture, change of scene and variety of life. Danger to life and
limb and loss of property will not stand in the way. They will
overlook the feirest prospect close at hand, with its dull routine
of duty and labor, to seek for an inferior one at a distance.
They are almost invariably dissatisfied with their present con-
dition, whatever that may be. The world moves not fast enough
for their boundless desires. Thus a new land, where hope and
fancy see all things, is to them a charmed land. They will seek
and know its qualities, or perish in the attempt. Discontent and
restlessness make the true spirit of " progress " that is ever un-
satisfied with the dull present, the practical and real. These
are the characteristics of all great men and great races, and are
the strongest signs of their superior intellect.

The spirit of progress is probably a most unhappy one to in-
dividuals, although it tends to raise a nation to the height of
wealth and glory. Knowledge is power, the attribute of a god ;
yet as the satirist says, increase of knowledge is only increase of
sorrow. Knowledge — power — "progress," is the Anglo Saxon
disposition, which has been developed on a large scale in the
American character. Brother Jonathan, like the Israelite of old,
seems doomed everlastingly to wander over the earth. His jour-
ney fairly began nearly a century since. On, on he must go.
Excelsior ! is his cry. The morality of the various steps in the
fated pilgrimage — as morals, social and political, are commonly
understood among old-fashioned people — may be dubious ; yet the
weary work must proceed. It is the fate of America ever to " go
ahead." She is like the rod of Aaron that became a serpent and
swallowed up the other rods. So will America conquer or annex
all lands. That is her " manifest destiny." Only give her time
for the process. To swallow up every few years a province as
large as most European kingdoms is her present rate of progress.
Sometimes she purchases the mighty morsel, sometimes she
forms it out of waste territory by the natural increase of her own
people, sometimes she " annexes," and sometimes she conquers
it. Her " progress " is still steadily onward. Pioneers clear the
way. These are political agents with money bags, or settlers in
neglected parts of the continent, or peaceable American citizens

THE SONORA FILIBUSTERS. 477

who happen to reside in the desired countries, and who wish to
dwell under the old "Stars and Stripes," or they may be only pro-
per filibusters, who steal and fight gratuitously for their own fast-
following Uncle Sam. When they fail in their schemes, they
are certainly scoundrels, and are commonly so termed ; when
they succeed, though they be dubbed heroes, they are still the
old rogues. Meanwhile America (that is the true title of our
country) secures the spoils won to her hand, however dishonest-
ly they may have come. That is only her destiny, and perhaps
she is not so blamable as a nation in bearing it willingly. One
may profit by the treason, yet hate the traitor. Let the distant
monarchs of the lands beyond the great lakes and the tawny
people of the far south look to it. America must round her ter-
ritories by the sea. Like Russia, she is steadily creeping over
the world, but different from that empire, her presence bestows
freedom and good upon the invaded nations, and not despotism,
ignorance, and unmanly, brutal desires.

The pioneers into Sonora were Walker and his people. They
never reached their destination. Lower California was in the
way, and they thought it best to begin on the small scale, and
secure it first. On the 30th of September of this year, the brig
Arrow, which was about to be employed to convey the fihbusters
to the land of promise, was seized by order of General Hitch-
cock, commanding the United States forces on the Pacific, and
acting under orders or a sense of his duty to protect a neighbor-
ing friendly power from being wrongfully attacked by Americans.
This measure involved General Hitchcock in unpleasant litigation,
and seems to have disgusted him with attempting to interfere
farther in the filibusters' movements. For want of sufficient le-
gal evidence to show the destination of the Arrotv and the char-
acter of the preparations making by those connected with the
affair, or rather, perhaps, through disincUnation of the prosecu-
tors to go on with the proceedings, the case was abandoned and
the vessel released. Meanwhile, the other officials here of the
United States Government, whose duty it was to prevent all pi-
ratical and filibustering expeditions from leaving the port, gave
little attention to the subject, and appeared wilfully to neglect
their most urgent duties. As for the State and city authorities,

478 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

it seemed to be considered none of their business to move in the
matter. The newspaper press was neutral, or at all events did
not (with one or two exceptions) loudly condemn the course in-
tended to be pursued by the known filibusters. Encouraged by
these circumstances, the adventurers soon procured another ves-
sel, the barque Caroline, and shortly afterwards (16th October),
forty-six of their number sailed in her from San Francisco for the
lower coast. Early in November, they reached the town of La
Paz, situated within the Gulf of California, and in the southern
division of the peninsula. There they landed, scattered the sur-
prised inhabitants, secured the governor, proclaimed the indepen-
dence of Lower CaHfornia, declared the civil code of Louisiana
the law of the land, liauled down the Mexican flag and hoisted
their own — all within half an hour. A slight engagement after-
wards took place between the Mexicans and the invaders, in which
the latter were successful, after killing a few of the enemy. This
was the hatth of La Paz. Mr. Walker then was nominated
" President of the Republic of Lower Cahfornia," and chose, or
had chosen for him his various Secretaries of State, War and
Navy, and other grand functionaries of the new government. As
there were fewer than fifty men to select from, a pretty fair pro-
portion of the party l)ecame suddenly dignitaries in the Republic.
The President, his staff and whole forces soon forsook La Paz,
the particular reason for attacking which town at this juncture
of events is not plain, though perhaps it was only to create a
" sensation." There was not even the pretence made that the
inhabitants of the place, or any of the natives of Lower Califor-
nia, had invited the presence of the spoilers of their property.
Walker and his party now retreated altogether from the gulf;
and carrying with them the archives of the government, sailed
for Ensenada, a place about a hundred miles below San Diego,
on the Pacific side of the peninsula. Here, in a thinly peopled
and unattractive country, and at a long distance from any Mexi-
can troops, they were safe for a time ; and here they established
their *' Head Quarters," until reinforcements should reach them
from San Francisco. It was understood that the seizure of Low-
er California was only the first step in the proposed conquest of
Sonora, which was all along the grand object of the expedition.

THE SONORA FILIBUSTERS. 479

When news of this short campaign reached San Francisco,
there was a mighty ado with the friends and sympathizers of
the expedition. Among the few initiated in the supposed secret
causes of the adventure, there were brilliant hopes of the indefi-
nite extension of one of the peculiar " domestic institutions " of
the South, and among all were glorious dreams of conquest and
plunder. The national flag of the new Kepublic was run up at
the corner of Kearny and Sacramento streets, and an office was
opened for the purpose of enlisting recruits. The excitement
was great in the city. At the corners of the streets and in bar-
rooms, groups of intending buccaneers and their friends collected,
and discussed the position of affairs. More volunteers appeared
than there were means of conveying to the scene of action.
News next reached the city of the battle of La Grulla, near
Santo Tomas, where the filibusters, when said to be in the act
of helping themselves to the cattle and provisions of the natives,
were severely handled, and a few of them slain. This, however,
only fired the recruits the more to help their ojDpressed brethren.
Why could not the Lower Californians, poor, ignorant brutes,
have been contented with the beautiful scrip of the new Republic
for their paltry provisions ? The rage for war — ^freedom to the
Mexicans, death to the Apaches, and plunder to the Americans —
sj)read over all California, and numbers hastened from the mining
regions to San Francisco, to depart southw^ard in time and share
in the spoil of the conquered land. The authorities meanwhile,
looked calmly on, and took no steps to prevent the departure of
the filibusters. The newspapers recorded their various movements
at length, and in general either indirectly praised, or did not
strongly condemn them. People in private circles laughed, and
talked over the business coolly. They generally thought, and
said, it was all right — at all events, it was a fine specimen of the
go-aheadism of Young America. Moneyed men even advanced
considerable sums for the use of the expeditionists, and the scrip
of the new Republic was almost saleable on 'Change, at a dime
for a dollar.

We have mentioned this afiair at some length, more to show
the general wild and reckless character of the people, and the
state of public opinion upon filibustering, in San Francisco, and

480 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

in California at large, than to chronicle the particular doings of
the adventurers. Our people are mostly in the prime of life,
their passions are of the strongest, they have an acute intellect,
absolute will and physical strength, but they are not distinguished
by high moral and political principle. They are sanguine in
whatever things they undertake, and are more inclined to des-
perate deeds, than to the peaceful business of ordinary life.
Had Walker's party succeeded in reaching Sonora and been able
to stand their own for a time or perhaps signally to defeat the
Mexicans in a pitched battle, ten thousand of our mixed Califor-
nians would have hastened to their triple-striped two-star stand-
ard. Against such a force not all the power of Mexico would
have been sufficient to dislodge the invaders from Sonora. Other
tens of thousands would have flocked into the country, and per-
force it would have been thoroughly Americanized. Undoubtedly
this will happen some day. Is it not " manifest destiny .? "
People here certainly look upon it as such, and hence very little
fault has been found, in general, with the proceedings of the
filibusters. The principles of action now existing in California,
in so far at least as regards neighboring countries, are something
like those of Wordsworth's hero, who acted upon

" The good old rule, the simple plan —
That they should take who have the power,
And thej should keep who can."

Rob Roy was a great man in his day ; and in our own times the
Californians are the greatest of a great people. That is a fact.

To finish the story of Walker's exploits. The Anita safely
bore her contingent to "Head Quarters" at Ensenada, and by
other opportunities a considerable number of volunteers went
thither. They were generally well armed with revolvers, rifles
and knives. On their departure, the recorder's court at San
Francisco had much less daily business, and the city was hap-
pily purged of many of the old squad of rowdies and loafers.
Strengthened by such an accession to his forces, opposed to which
no body of Mexicans in that part of Lower California could ap-
pear in the field. Walker now, with a stroke of his pen, for he is
said to be even abler as a writer than as a warrior, abolished the

THE SONORA FILIBUSTERS. 481

Republic of " Lower California/' and proclaimed in its stead that
of " Sonora," which comprised the province of that name and
the peninsula itself. Most of the great prizes in the lottery had
already been distributed. However, Col. H. P. Watkins, of the
Anita contingent, had the honor of being appointed the " Vice-
President." This gentleman and some of liis fellow-dignitaries
subsequently underwent a trial at San Francisco for their fihbus-
tering practices, the result of which will be noticed under the
proper date. In Lower California, various " decrees," proclama-
tions and addresses to the natives and to his own soldiers were
made by the " President." They dwelt upon the " holiness " of
the invaders' cause, and were very grandiloquent. The march
was being formed for Sonora, straight.

Meanwhile, dissensions were breaking out among the men.
The rank and file, the tag, rag and bobtail of the expedition, had
considerable difficulty in digesting the stolen or scrip-bought beef,
always beef, and Indian corn, always corn, that formed their
rations. They fancied that their officers "fared sumptuously
every day," which very hkely was not the case. Any thing will
serve as an excuse for behavior that has been predetermined.
So these epicures and haters of beef and corn, to the number of
fifty or sixty, gave up, without a sigh. Walker, Sonora and their
frugal meals. Other desertions subsequently took place, and the
staunch filibusters were gradually reduced to a very few. To
improve the moral tone of his army. Walker caused two of his
people to be shot and other two to be flogged and expelled, partly
for pilfering and partly for desertion. The San Franciscan jour-
nals had now little mercy on the expedition and all connected
with it. It was a farce, they said ; and its end was just what
they had expected. For a while there remained a remnant of
the filibusters loafing about Ensenada, or Santo Tomas — or God
knows where — looking, like the immortal Micawber, for " some-
thing to turn up." Subsequently, however, as will hereafter be
seen, they surrendered themselves as prisoners to the United
States authorities.

December 24th. — Opening of the " Metropolitan Theatre."
Theatricals, and especially that class of them in wliich music
bears a considerable share, have always been largely patronized
31

482 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

by the San Franciscans. It was thought proper to have a more
mao-nificcnt temple for dramatic and operatic entertainments than
any hitherto erected in the city, and the '• MetropoHtan " accord-
ingly was built and opened. This is one of the finest theatres
in America, and is distinguished by the beautiful and chaste
appearance of the interior. The house is built of brick. The
mana(»-ement of the theatre was under the care of Mrs. Catherine
N. Sinclair. She opened the splendid structure with an excel-
lent stock company, among whom there immediately began to
appear "stars" of the first magnitude, which have since con-
tinued in rapid succession. The prices of admission were — for
the orchestra and private boxes, $3, for the dress circle and par-
quette, $2, and for the second and third circles, $1. The School
for Scandal., in which Mr, James E. Murdock played the part
of " Charles Surface," and Mrs. Sinclair, the manageress, that of
^•' Lady Teazle," and the farce of Little ToddleJcins, were the per-
formances of the evening.

December 26th. — Great sale of one hundred and twenty
water lots belonging to the city, when the gross sum realized
was $1,193,550. These lots formed in all four small sized blocks
of land, covered with water, lying upon each side of Commercial
street wharf. They extended between Sacramento and Clay
streets, and from Davis street eastward two blocks. Most of the
lots measured twenty-five feet in front to a street, and fifty-
nine feet nine inches in depth. These brought on an average
between $8,000 and $9,000 a lot. The corner lots, which faced
two streets, brought from $15,000 to $16,000. A few larger
lots brought from $20,000 to $27,000. There was an average
depth of about eight feet of water, at low tide, upon these blocks
of land ; and to make them fit to receive buildings would require
the expenditure of large sums of money. The enormous prices
obtained for such small lots of ground, " covered with water,"
show the confidence which capitalists had in the future prosperity
of the city. The sale was only for ninety-nine years, after
March, 1851, being the period for which the State had conveyed
the property to the city. In terms of the original grant, the
city was obliged to pay over to the State twenty-five j^er cent, of
the proceeds of the sale. The sum of $185,000 was likewise

SALES OF WATER LOTS.

483

appropriated to satisfy any claims which several of the wharf
companies adjoining the lots disposed of had pretended to
the slips, pow sold. After these deductions were made, a very
handsome sum was left to replenish the municipal exchequer,
and relieve it from many pressing obligations which had been
gradually accumulating.

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i «g}jilll!I)i|lIiM|i/;^,l^i;pH

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Montgomery Block.

December 28th. — Great sale of the State's interest in water
property, when lots to the value of ^350,000 were sold. This
property was situated between Broadway and Pacific streets. It
was partly covered with water, and partly dry land, although
covered with water in 1849, and is a portion of the property called
the "Government Keserve" on the ordinary maps of the city.

The magnificent structm-e known as "Montgomery Block"
was completed toward the close of this year. This is the largest,
most elegant, and imposing edifice in California, and would at-
tract especial attention in any city, though it occupies a site
that was partially covered by the waters of the bay as late as
1849. It has a front of 122 feet on the west side of Montgom-
ery street, from Washington to Merchant street, along which
streets it extends 138 feet, presenting an unbroken facade on
these three streets of nearly 400 feet. It is owned by the law-
firm of Halleck, Peachy, Billings & Parke.

CHAPTER XXVII.
1853.

Numbers and description of the population of the State.— Amount of gold produced from California
jnines.— San Francisco as related to California.— Population of San Francisco.— City improve-
ments. — Commercial statistics

The year 1853 was not remarkable for any great increase in the
permanent population of California. A vast immigration cer-
tainly took place, but the emigration was also very great. Before
noticing the estimated increase in the number of inhabitants in
San Francisco, we take this opportunity of making a few remarks
on the progress of population in the country at large.

The Government census, taken at the close of 1852, returned
the population of California at 264,435 ; but this number was
considered by those best able to judge to be considerably under-
stated. In his message communicating the census returns to
the Legislature, the governor of the State, commenting upon
them, expressed his behef that the population of the country, at
the close of 1852, might properly be estimated at 308,000 per-
sons of both sexes, and of aU races and ages. In 1853, it was
supposed that the immigration by land from the United States
and Mexico amounted to about 15,000 persons, while the number
of those leaving California by land was too inconsiderable to affect
materially any calculations on the subject. The number of im-
migrants by sea, who landed at San Francisco, was about 34,000,
while the departures were about 31,000. There were, therefore,
probably about 18,000 persons, on the whole, added to the
population of the country. If this number be added to the
estimated number at the close of 1852, it wiU appear that at the
close of the following year the total population of Cahfornia was

POPULATION OF CALIFORNIA. 485

326,000 persons. As while we ■write, in the spring of 1854, the
ordinary immigration of the year has not fairly commenced,
which, however, promises to be very large, the last-mentioned
number may be taken as a fair approximation to the present
number of inhabitants. Estimates have been made, at different
times, of the various races forming the total number, but none
of these can be confidently relied upon. The French and Ger-
man peoples generally claim a greater number of their country-
men in California than the Americans are willing to allow. The
following may be taken as a rough calculation on this subject.
Under the term "Americans" are included the natives of Great
Britain and Ireland, who are less easily distinguishable from na-
tive Americans than are other foreigners. Many, however, of
the British-born, are American by adoption and naturahzation.
Since the common language of the Americans and British is
English, and their customs and habits of thought are generally
the same, there seems no impropriety in calling them all in Cali-
fornia simply Americans. At the same time, it may be observed
that the vast majority of those so called are really natives of the
United States : —

Americans, 204,000 ; Germans, 30,000 ; French, 28,000 ;
Hispano-Americans, 20,000 ; aU other foreigners of white ex-
traction, 5,000 ; Chinese, 17,000 ; Indians (estimated by the
census agents at 33,000, which number is considered much too
high), 20,000 ; Negroes, 2,000 ; total, 326,000.

Of this number, about 100,000 are believed to be working
miners, the remainder forming the population of the different towns
and the pastoral and agricultural districts of the country. It is
estimated that there are about 65,000 women in the country and
perhaps 30,000 children. In the mining regions the females are
much fewer relatively to the local population than in the towns.
As among the Indians and the native Califomians the sexes may
be supposed to be nearly equal, it will be seen that among the
other races, the number of females must be very small in propor-
tion to the number of male inhabitants. The class of small
farmers and generally the agricultural population increased con-
siderably during 1853. They produced a large portion of the
provisions which supplied the wants of the people ; and it is pro-

486 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

bable that in a few years the State will he altogether independent
of foreign supi^lies in the great staples which support life.

The quantity of gold produced from the Californian mines
cannot he correctly ascertained, though reasonable approximations
on the subject may be made. The custom-house returns at San
Francisco do not show the great amount of gold carried off' by
private parties, and not manifested, nor the quantity retained in
the country, where the circulation of local gold pieces is very
laro-e. Perhaps the quantity of gold dust deposited and coined
at the different mints of the United States, with a fair allowance
for what may be shipped directly or transhipped to foreign coun-
tries, and used in manufactures throughout the Union, and as
coin in California itself, and what may be still in the hands of
miners and others, may make a sufficiently exact statement on
the subject. This allowance, after a careful consideration of
many circumstances, we would put, for the last five or six years,
at $44,000,000, which we think moderate. The total production
of the different years may therefore be estimated, and given as
follows :

Deposits at the various mints of Californian gold. Total estimated produce.

1848 $45,301 $3,000,000

1849 6,151,360 25,000,000

1850 86,273,097 40,000,000

1851 55,938,232 60,000,000

1852 53,452,567 63,000,000

1853 55,113,487 65,000,000

Add, the manifested sbipments
of gold dust from San Fran-
cisco in the month of De-
cember, 1853, but which
•would not be deposited at
the mints until January fol-
lowing 4,846,743

$211,820,787 $256,000,000

As manifested in the custom-house, the export of gold from
San Francisco, during 1853, was $54,906,956 74. Of this amount,
the sum of $47,914,448 was for New York ; $4,795,662 for
London; $926,1 34 for China; $445,778 for Valparaiso ; $390,781
for New Orleans ; $191,000 for the Sandwich Islands,— and the
remainder for New South Wales and various ports on the Pacific.

SAN FRANCISCO AND CALIFORNIA. 487

It will be observed that between six and seven millions were
shipped, during the last year, directly to foreign countries, and
would not therefore appear in the returns of the United States
mints.

It seems unnecessary, in the " Annals of San Francisco," to
enter more largely into the mere statistics of gold. The yearly
production has steadily continued to increase, and the manifested
semi-monthly shipments of specie regularly range from two to
three millions. These shipments, as we have explained, do not
show the total production, since large quantities of dust are car-
ried off by private parties, which do not appear in the custom-
house records. In the beo-innino; of 1854 the mines are unusu-
ally productive ; and so far as can be estimated, the total produc-
tion of the year named may be expected to show a considerable
increase on the production of 1853.

It is admitted by all who bestow a moment's attention upon
the subject, that hitherto it has been gold, almost alone, which
has given such an impetus to the progress of California at large,
and particularly to San Francisco. The latter is the one great
port through which the enormous foreign supplies of provisions
and all other kinds of goods pass to the interior, and from whence
the payments in gold dust are shipped abroad. Most of the
miners reach California by way of San Francisco, and all who
leave the country depart from the same city. Many years hence
the fertile and genial California will be a rich and populous coun-
try, irrespective entirely of her mineral wealth ; and as farming,
and, by and by, manufacturing immigrants pour in, that time
will be hastened. San Francisco will then, as now, be the great
i:)ort of the State, and the emporium of a vast commerce. The
Atlantic and Pacific Kailway, which has been discussed for so
many years, and which must soon be really set agoing, will in-
crease to an incalculable extent the population and prosperity
both of California and San Francisco. By whatever route the
proposed railroad communication is made, our city must be the
chief terminus on the Pacific. Meanwhile, she is closely dependent
for prosperity upon the success of the miners and the increasing
production of gold. If these grow fewer, or the production be
seriously reduced, San Francisco must suffer most severely for

488 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

a time. From the figures given above, it appears that the an-
nual production of gold has been steadily increasing ; while,
from what is known of the character of the mining regions, there
seems no reason to fear a serious falling off in the amount for
many years to come. Scientific apparatus and superior methods
of working are every year being applied to the auriferous earth
and rocks, which readily yield richer returns than ever. Long
before the mining districts can be worked out, for profitable labor,
San Francisco wiU have the millions of California for supporters
of her commerce and patrons of her magnificence. Hitherto
she has been, and from her unequalled maritime position, her
wealth, population and enterprise, must always be, the financial
and political,