Full text of "The annals of San Francisco; containing a summary of the history of ... California, and a complete history of ... its great city: to which are added, biographical memoirs of some prominent citizens"

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SiSNEAL-OGY

:OL.UECTION

ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY

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_J u u _u

CENEAUOGiY COLLECTION

THE

ANMLS OF SANFRANCISCO ;

CONTAINING

A SUIVIMARY OF THE HISTORY OF THE FIRST DISCOVERY,
SETTLEMENT, PROGRESS, AND PRESENT CONDITION OF

CALIFORNIA,

AND A COMPLETE HISTORY OF ALL THE IMPOKTANT EVENTS

CONNECTED WITH

ITS GREAT CITY:

TO WHICH AEE ADDED,

BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIRS OF SOME PROMINENT CITIZENS.

FRANK SOULE, JOHN H. GIHON, M. D.,

AND.

JAMES^SBET.

ILLUSTRATED WITH ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY FINE ENGRAVINGS.

" Go to, let us build ns a city, and a tower,
Whose top may reach unto heaven ;
And let us make us a name."

NEW YORK:

D. APPLETON & COMPANY, 346 & 348 BROADWAY.

SAN FEANOISCO: MONTGOMERY STREET.

LONDON: 16 LITTLE BRITAIN.

M.DCCC.LT.

Entbked, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854, bj-

D. APPLETON & COMPANY,

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District

of New York.

TO THE

'^SOCIETY OF CALIFORNIA PIONEERS,"

THIS WORK

RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED

THE AUTHORS.

1148460

PEE F AC E.

Were not the plan, scope and purpose of the present volume sufficiently
explained in the text of the work itself, we should despair of adequately
initiating the reader in these subjects in the limited space necessarily
assigned to a Preface. It is not necessary to offer a reason for the ap-
pearance of these " Annals." To read and to know something of the
history of this new Tadmor which has grown up so suddenly in the midst
of what was but recently merely a desert, the centre of that vast trade
which the golden smile of California opened at once to the world, is so
natural and inevitable a desire, that it may be taken for granted, and
dismissed as a foregone conclusion. The plan of the work is such as its
nature seemed to require, and the style and manner of treatment must
rest for approval and criticism with the PuMic, for whom it was written
and to whom it is now submitted.

To avoid the necessity of frcLpent references in the body of the work
to authorities, and to those who have generously extended to the authors
facilities for its production, the Preface has been selected as the most
fitting place for expressing our obligations. For unrestricted access to
the " Californian," the "California Star," and the "Alta California"
newspaper files, we are indebted to the courtesy of Mr. Edward Conner,
one of the proprietors of the last named journal. Much valuable statis-
tical and other information has been derived from the " San Francisco
Herald," full files of which were kindly placed at our disposal by its
editor and proprietor, Mr. John Nugent. The " California Chronicle,"
from its commencement to the date of publication of this volume, was
also placed by the proprietors at our service. We are likewise indebted

6 PREFACE.

to Messrs. T. J. Nevins and Wm. H. O'Grady for information respect-
ing the public schools ; to Mr. J. L. Van Bokkelin, for important facts
concerning the fire department ; to Mr. A. G. Randall, for particulars in
regard to military organizations ; to Rev's T. Dwight Hunt, Albert Wil-
liams, J. L. Ver Mehr, S. H. Willey and 0. C. Wheeler, for matter
relating to the early state of religion and churches in San Francisco ;
to Messrs. Thomas 0. Larkin, William A. Richardson, Jacob P. Leese,
Jacob R. Snyder, James Caldwell Low, Hiram Pierson, J. D. Steven-
son, Samuel Brannan, R. H. Perry, David Jobson, Samuel J. Bayard,
Nathaniel Gray and James King of William, for much useful and inter-
esting information regarding the early and present history of the city ;
to Mr. J. M. Ford, daguerreian artist, for gratuitous services in taking
portraits of many of the gentlemen whose memoirs are given ; and to
our citizens generally who have freely responded to our call for informa-
tion, whenever they have been appealed to for that purpose. Many bio-
graphical sketches designed for this work have been omitted for want
of room, the volume having extended to nearly double the size originally
intended and promised. These, however, with other interesting matters
connected with the progress of San Francisco, and a history of all the
important cities and towns of California, will be published at an early
day, in another volume, a great portion of the material for which is al-
ready prepared.

The necessity of condensing within the reasonable space of a single
volume, the history of a city which has occupied for the five or six years
of its existence so much of the attention of the world, and the unavoid-
able collateral history of California, has prevented, to some extent, a
natural impulse and inclination to indulge more at length in many inter-
esting details. But it is believed that the gist of the whole matter is
embraced in the history as written, and that no important event has been
omitted, which would have been of interest to the general reader.

CONTENTS.

PART I.

CHAPTER I.— Proposed treatment of the work.— Etymology of the name California. — ^Lower or
Old Calit'i/inia. — Grixalva and Mendoza. — First discovery. — Expeditions of Cortez. — Cabrillo. —
Fen-elo. — Drake. — Drake's descrijition of the natives. — Bodega and San Francisco Bays. — Sir
Francis Drake's Bay.— Captain Thomas Cavendish. — Captain "Woodes Rogers. — His description
of the natives. — The English buccaneering expeditions along the west coasts of the Americas. —
Political reasons why the Spanish Government strenuously prosecuted the discovery and settle-
ment of California p. 21

CHAPTER II.— Expeditions of Viscaino. — Admiral Otondo and Father Kino. — First settlement, and
introduction of the priest rule in the Californias. — Failure and withdi'awal of the first missions.
— Renewed attempts to make settlements. — Father Salva-Tierra and his coadjutors.— Final estab-
lishment of the Jesuits in the country. — Geographical discoveries of Father Kino. — Jesuits ex-
pelled and superseded by Franciscan Friars ; these, in turn, by the Dominican Monks. — Population
and phy.sical character of Old or Lower California 38

CHAPTER III. — First settlement of New or Upper California by Franciscan Monks. — Supposed
earliest discovery of San Francisco Baj'. — Origin of the name. — Establishment of a Mission and
Presidio there, and ceremonies on the occasion.— Gradual establishment of Missions and Presidios
over the country. — List of these, and population of some at various dates. — The gente de razon
and the bestias, or the rational creatures and beasts of the country. — Causes why free white set-
tlers few in number. — Character (f the natives as given by Venegas, and other writers. — Progress
and apparent destiny of the Anglo-Saxons on the Pacific 45

CHAPTER IV. — Conduct of the Fathers towards the natives. — Their mode of instructing, employ-
ing and subsisting the converts. — The Fathers do not appear to have promoted the true welfare
of the aborigines, or done any good to humanity.— Pictures, if gaudily colored and horriblii in
subject, great aids to conversion. — Missions and population of the country at recent dates. —
Table on this subject, — Tables of the farm produce and domestic cattle of the country. — Table of
prices 56

CHAPTER v.— Pious Fund of California.— General description of the Missions.— Patriarchal kind
of life of the Fathers. — Reflections on the subject- General description of the Presidios, Castillos,
and their garrisons, and of the free Pueblos and Eanchios 67

CHAPTER VI. — Independence of Mexico in 1822, and gradual changes in the character and constitu-
tion of the Missions. — Manumission of the Indians in 1826 ; but plan found unworkable, and re-
turn to the old state of things. — Gradual disappearance of the Pious Fund. — Increasing riches of
the Fathers. — Changes of 1833 and iS34 in the Mii^sions, and attempts by the Mexican Congress
to secularize their property. — Santa Anna. — Attempted Centralization of the Mexican Govern-
ment. — Overthrow of the old Federal Constitution in 1836. — Revolt and Declaration of Indepen
<lence of the Californians.— Continual sinking of the Fathers, and final fall of the Missions in
1845. — Indian converts sent adrift, and Mission property sold or rented. — Cost of the support
of the Missions to the Spanish and Mexican Governments 74

8 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VII. — California distinct in physical character and national feeling from the other
Mexican provinces.— Bc!,'inning and progress of immigration into the country. — The Russians at
Bodega Biiy.— Later great increase of foreign white settlers; Americans largely preponderating.
— Ontrage committed upon the settlers hy Mexican authorities.— Commodore Jones takes pos-
session of Monterey. — Foreign settlers scatter themselves over the whole country, and silently,
but rapidly, revolutionize or Americanize it — Origin of the war of 1846 between the Mexican
and American States SI

ClIArTER Tin.— Col. John C. Fremont— General Jos6 Castro.— Fremont declares war against
California.— Capture of Sonoma.— Proclamation of William B. Ide.— Letter of Pio Pico, Governor
of the Califomias, to Thomas O. Larkin, Consul of the United States.— Thomas O. Larkin's reply
to Pio Pico. — California declared independent — California desired by the American Government.
— Col. Stevenson's regiment — Movements of General Kearny. — Seizure of Monterey. — Proclama-
tion of Com. Sloat— Commander Montgomery takes possession of Terba Buena and Fremont of
San Juan 90

CHAPTER IX.— Commodore Stockton takes charge of the American forces in California. — Hostility
of the Californians. — Proclamation of Com. Stockton. — Landing at San Pedro, and manoeuvres
of the sailor army. — Castro's commissioners. — March on Los Angeles, and flight of General
Castro. — Triumphant entry into Los Angeles. — Provisional government formed. — The difliculties
of Stockton's march, and the complete success of his plans. — Reported hostility of the Walla-
Walla Indians. — Enthusiastic reception of Stockton at San Francisco and other places. — Satis-
faction of the people of California with the new government — Stockton designs to cross Mexico
and unite with the forces of General Taylor 101

CHAPTER X. — Insurrection of the Californians. — Proclamation of General Flores. — Defeat and
-surrender of Talbot and Gillespie. — Cajitain Mervine defc.itcd, with the crew of the Savannah. —
Com. Stockton defeats the Californians at San Diego. — Defeat of General Kearny at San Pasqual.
— The oflQcial relations of Com. Stockton and Gen. Kearny. — Movement against Los Angeles.
—Battles of the Rio San Gabriel, and the Plains of the Mesa. — Fremont negotiates with General
Flores and Andreas Pico. — Fremont appointed Governor, and .subsequently tried by Court Mar-
tial. — Arrival of Commodore Shubrick, and the confirmation of General Kearny as Governor. —
Mexican Governors of California. — Foreign Consuls in the Territory 113

CHAPTER XL— Peace concluded between the Mexican and American States.— Terms of the Treaty.
—California ceded to the United States. — The country ruled provisionally by American Govern-
ors.-Rapid increase of population by immigr.ation.— Discovery of gold on the American River
by Mr. James W. Marshall.— Great excitement in consequence of the discovery, and rush of peo-
ple to the gold placer.'.— Mixed character of the population.— Necessity for the establishment of
a proper form of Government— Independent sectional legislation inadequate and unsatisfactory.
—Meetings held to cflfect a general civil organization.— General Riley issues a proclamation for
a meeting to be held at Monterey to adopt a State Constitution.— Names of delegates appointed.
—Meeting at Monterey.— Constitution of California adopted, and rejoicings on the occasion. . 12S

CHAPTER XII.— Geographical limits of Upper California.— General description of the country.—
Two great divisions of the northern part of the State.— Fertility of the soil.— Peculiarities of
the climate.— Two seasons: wet and dry.— Products of tlw country.— Fogs and winds on the
coa,st— The harbors.— Country west of the Sierra Nevada.— The Sacramento and San Joaquin
rivers, and their valleys.- This region of country abounds in timber.— Excessive heat in the dry
8ca.son.— Localities of the chief gold placers.— Immense size of trees.— Silver, lead, copper and
coal mines.— Advantages to the immigrant ]40

PART II.

CUAI'TKR I.— Description of the Golden Gate.— Origin of the name.- The Bays of San Francisco.
San Pablo, and Snisun.-Rivcrs emptying into Suisim Bay.— Description of the adjacent coun-
try.— Indian tradition.— Remarkable fertility of the .soil.— Farm produce and mode of farming. -
Location of the City of San Francisco.- The name Yerba Buena —The first house built— Dis-
advantages of the locality.— No provision made for desirable public squares or parks 149

CONTENTS. y

CHAPTER II.— The Mission and Presidio of San Francisco.— Formation and survey of tlie village
of Terba Bueiia. — Disputes and litigation in regard to Ycrba Buena being a Pueblo.— Captain
Richardson the first Harbor Master.— ViMts of national and other vessels to Terba Buena Cove.
— Reasons why the whale ships ceased to enter the harbor fur supplies.— Traffic between Verba
Buena and foreign ports. — Hides and tallow the chief exports. — Prices obtained for these. —
Heavy rains and their effects. — Earthquakes. — Unnsnal drought — Mr. Jacob P. Leese establishes
himself at Yerba Buena —Celebration of the Fourth of July at Leese's house.— First child bom.
—Limits of the original survey 162

Oil AFTER III.— Removal of the Hudson's Bay Company.— Rapid growth and increase of population
of Yerba Buena.— First newspapers established in California.— Tables showing the number
of inhabitants in 1S47, with their places of birth, ages, .eexes and occupations.— Ordinance of the
alcalde changing the name of Yerba Buena to San Francisco.— W. A. Bartlett was the first alcalde
under the American flag, who was succeeded by George Hyde, and he by Edwin Bryant.— Pow-
ers of an alcalde. — Great sale of beach and water lots, agreeably to a decree of General Kearny,
— Price of grants of property, and subsequent increased value of city lots. — Width of the streets.
— JIunicipal regulation restricting purchasers 173

CHAPTER lY. — Captain Montgomery hoists the American flag on Portsmouth Square. — Arrival of
the ship Brooklyn from Xew York, with a large company of Mormon and other immigrant'. —
Disputes among her passengers, leading to the first jury trial in San Francisco. — Grand ball at
the residence of Wm. A. Leidesdorff.— Nautical fete given by Capt. Simmons.— Public reception
of Com. Stockton. — Attempts to establish a public school.— Name of town changed to San Fran-
cisco. — Number of buildings and inhabitants.— Suffering immigrants in the Sierra Nevada, —
Trustee* of the proposed school chosen. — Delegates to represent the District of San Francisco in
the new legislative council- Arrival of Col. Stevenson and New York Volunteers.— Vessels in
the harbor, 1.3th March, 1S47.— ■' The California Star '' adopts the name of San Francisco. — Mails
established between San Francisco and San Diego. — Proposed erection of a church. — Grand illu-
mination in honor of Gen. Taylor's victory at Buena Vista. — Celebrations of Anniversaries. —
Public meeting to consider the claims of Col. Fremont to the office of Governor of the Terri-
tory. — Sale of beach and water lots. — Election of the first town conncil. — The first public school
— Gales in San Francisco Bay. — The first steamboat. — Thanksgiving Day. — Commercial Statis-
tics 1S5

CHAPTER V. — Resolutions concerning gambling. — Public sale of City Property. — Price Current
published. — Condition and population of the town. — Overland express to Independence, Mo. —
George Hyde, alcalde, resigned, and succeeded by Dr. J. Townsend. — Death of Wm. A. Leides-
dorff. — Discovery of gold, and immediate effects. — Illumination in celebration of the peace be-
tween Mexico and the United States. — Dr. T. M. Leavenworth elected alcalde. — First brick
house. — Public meeting to regulate the price of gold dust — First square-rigged vessel discharged
at Broadway wharf— Judicial limits of the town. — Rev. T, D. Hunt chosen chaplain. — First
issue of the " Star and Californian." — State of the markets. — Public meeting to organize a Pro-
visional Government. — New town council elected. — Election declared invalid. — Duties collected
at the Cnstom-House 199

CHAPTER VI.— General Effects of the Gold Discoveries 209

CHAPTER VII.— The Alta California newspaper established.— Delegates elected to the proposed
convention to be held at San Jose. — New town council elected. — Three town councils at one
time. — Meeting of the convention to frame a civil government postponed. — Public meeting re-
specting the conflicting councils. — Public meeting concerning negro slavery. — Town councils
resigned, and legislative assembly chosen. — Arrival of the steamship California. — Address of
delegates to civil government convention. — Arrival of steamship Oregon, and Col. John W.
Geary with the first United States mails. — General Riley announced territorial governor. — Acts
of the legislative assembly and of the governor. — Meetings concerning municipal and State govern-
ments. — Growth, population and general prosperity of the city. — Gambling and other vices and
crimes 218

CHAPTER VIII. — The Hounds. — Election of Supreme Judge, delegates to convention and mu-
nicipal officers. — Alcalde's address to the Ayuntamiento. — Duties of prefects. — The prison brig
Euphemia and store-ship Apollo. — Churches. — Regulations and appointments of the Ayunta-

10 CONTENTS,

mlonto— Tho "PacincNews" coinmcnced.— Meeting of the CoDStitnllon Convention at Mon-
terey. — Mercliants' Exchange. — Steam Navigation. — Death of Nathan Spear. - First demo-
cratic nu'cilng.— Circus opened.— Constitution approved and State officers elected.— First liahita-
tion on Rincon Point— Thanksgiving Day.-Judge Almond's court. -Tlie '^ Alta California."--
Flrst groat Are -'" '

CHAPTER IX.— Increase of population —No proper homes.— Character of the houses.— Condition
of the t-troi-t-s.- Employments of the people.— Every thing in apparent confusion ; still nobody
idle, and much business accomplished.— How the inhabitants lived.— Money rapidly made and
ft-ecly spent— Gambling.— Shipping deserted. —Extravagantly high prices obtained for every
thing.— Rents and wages.— The mines the source of all the v.ealth.— Destitution, sickness and
<leath.— Increase of crime —Aspect of the Plaza.— Mixed character of the inhabitants.— The Post-
otlice.— A pleasant prospect 243

CHAPTER X.— Great sale of water lots.— An election day —Newspapers.— Approval by the ayuntii-
niiento of tho City Charter, and limits of San Francisco.— Squatter difficulty at Rincon Point—
Poliiical meeting on Portsmouth Square.- The Colton grants.— First county election.— Col.
John C. llaycs elected SlierifT.- City Charter adopted by the State Legislature.— First election
under tho City Charter.— Changes in the Common Council 264

CHAPTER XL— Third great fire.— Aldermen's salaries.— Indignation meetings.— Veto message of
the mayor.— Shipping in San Francisco Bay.— Celebration of the Fourth of July.— The Oregon
Liberty Pole.— Custom-house at the corner of California and Montgomery streets.— Departure
from California of General Riley.— Society of California Pioneers. — Squatter riots at Sacramento.
—Suffering immigrants. — Presentation of Chinese Books. — Funeral ceremonies on occasion of
the death of President T.aylor.— A Chinese document 277

CHAPTER XII.— The first City Directoiy published.— Monetary crisis.— Fourth great fire.— Death
of Capt.iin Bezer Simmons.— The wharves.— Celebration on account of the admission of California
into the Union of American States.— Explosion of the steamer Sagamore.— City Hospital burned.
—Improvements in the city.— Plank road to the Mission Dolores. — Death of the mayor of Sacra-
mento. — Thanksgiving Day.— Fire in Sacramento-street 289

CH.VPTER XIII.— Population in 1S50.— City improvements.— Grading and planking streets.—
Wharves, steamers, manufactures.— Supply and demand for goods. — Mines yielding abundantly.
— Expresses cstablished.-Moral progress.— Better state of things. — Cholera.— California admitted
to the Union.— City Charter granted.— First Common Council. — The gold medals for Aldermen.—
Corruption of officials.— Colton Grants.— Leidesdorff Estate.— City finances.— Outrages and fires.
—The prisons and police.— Lynch Law agitated 300

CHAPTER XIV.— The Gold Bluffs and Pacific Mining Company.— The excitement at the City Ilall
in February, ISol.— Attempt to Lynch Burdue and Windred. — ^Their subsequent escape. — Burn-
ing of the steapiers Hartford and Santa Clara. 311

CHAPTER XV.— Judge Parsons and the case of William Walker for contempt of Court— Act of
Legislature ceding Beach and Water Lots to the City of San Francisco. — Act to re-incorporate
the city. — New city limits. — First election of municijial oflicers under revised charter. — Act
pas.<ed to fund the State debt — Act to establish State Marine Hospital.— Act to fund the flo.iting
debt— Indebtedness of the city. — Municipal officers trafficking in city scrip. — Fifth great fire. 322

CHAPTER XVI.— T. Butler King removing the custom-house deposits.— Frank Ball's song, and
costom-houso appointment. — Dr. Robinson's rhymes. — Incendiarism. — The case of Lews,
charged with arson. — The facilities with which criminals escaped from punishment. — The Vigi-
lance Committee. — Contracts of Mr. Merriflcld and tho Mountain Water Lake Company to supply
tlie city wHh water 384

CHAPTER XVII.— The sixtii groat fire.— Destruction of old buildings.— Execution by the Vigi-
lance Conimittce of Stu.irt, Whittakcr and McKenzie. — County and city elections. — The Vigi-
lance Committee suspend operations.— Wells & Co. suspend payment— Opening of the Jenny
Llnd Theatre.— The American Theatre opened.— Shipping in San Francisco Bay.— Ball of the
Monumental Fire Company.— Indian disturbances and volunteer military companies.— Severe
storm 341

CONTENTS. 11

CHAPTER XYIII. — rmiiiiixratioii diminished. — Females comparatively few. — Great city improve-
ments. — Productions of the country, game, &c., in the markets. — Character of the community
changing for the better. — The circulating medium. — Extravagance in living, dress, &c. — Personal
renc'-.ntres and other outrages common.— Titles to real estate uncertain. — Legal decisions. — De-
preciated value of merchandise.—Amusements, dissipation and recreation. — The foreign popula-
tion. - Great crimes less frequent. — The finances of the city 857

CHAPTER XIX.— Dr. Peter Smith. — His contract with the city to take charge of the indigent sick.
— The city's indebtedness. — Smith's judgments and executions. — Injunctions of the commission-
ers of the funded debt. — Sale and sacrifice of tho city property under Smith's judgments. . . 370

CHAPTER XX.— The Chinese in California— Act passed to fund the floating debt of the State.
— Tlie State Marine Hospital. — Act to convert into a seven per cent, stock the floating debt
of the County of San Francisco. — Anniversary of fires. — Meetings of the Vigilance Committee. 378

CHAPTER XXI.— Clipper Ships.— Enormous Taxation.— Purchase of the Jenny Lind Theatre by
the Common Council. — Times and Transcript removes to San Francisco. — Fourth of July cele-
bration.— Great scarcity of printing paper. — Duel between lion. Edward Gilbert and General
Denver. — Custom of Duelling. — Funeral ceremonies on occasion of the death of Henry Clay. 391

CHAPTER XXII.— Australian gold mines. — Restlessness of miners. — Many who emigrated to Aus-
tralia return to California. — Superior advantages of the latter place. — Second city directory
published. — California Telegraph Company. — General election. — Firo in Sacramento City.—
Another fire in San Francisco. — Intelligence received of the death of Daniel Webster.— Falling
of the waters of Lake La Mercede. — Another city directory. — Firemen's election. — Legal exe-
cution of Joso Forni. — Destructive storm 402

CHAPTER XXIIL— Increase of population.— Mixed character of the immigrants.— Chinese, Peru-
vians, Chllenos, and other foreigners, notoriously vicious. — Sutferings of the overland immigrants.
— Greater attention paid to agricultural pursuits. — City improvements still progressing. — Great
fires no longer possible. — Fire insurance agencies established. — Manufactories. — New gold dis-
coveries. — Emigration to Australia. — Merchandise and provisions commanding high prices. —
The clipper ships.— Filthy condition of tho streets. — Great abundance of rats.— The city exten-
sion, bay, and shipping. — The strong winds preventive of disease. — Peculations of officials.—
San Francisco only suitable for the industrious. — ^The city growing in importance. — Change of
inhabitants. — Fascinations of San Francisco life. — Reflections concerning the moral condition of
the city 411

CHAPTER XXIV.— Commerce.- Mercantile Library Association. — Tho Limantour claim.— Elec-
tion of delegates to revise the City Charter.— Third annual celebration of the organization of tho
Fire Department.— Steamships lost— Extension of the city water front- United States Marino
Hospital 427

CHAPTER XXV. — Russ's garden.— The German population. — May-day celebration by school-cbil-
dren.— Burning of the Eassette House.— Mountain Lake Water Company.— General State Ilospi-
tal.— Drinking houses.— Clipper ships and short passages.— Military parade and celebration of 4th
of July.— Dedication of the First Congregational Church.— St Mary's (Catholic) Church.— Unita-
rian Church.— Seamen's Bethel.— Squatter difliculties.— Store-ships burned.— Strikes by mechan-
ics and laborers for higher wages.— Anniversary of the German Turnverein.— City and county
election.— Latiiyette Hook and Ladder Company organized.— The French inhabitants.— Sweeney
<fc Baugh's electric telegraph 445

CHAPTER XXVI.— Important legal decision of the Supreme Court confirming Alcaldes' grants.—
Burning of the St Francis Hotel.— Opening of the telegraph communication to Marysville.— Lone
Mountain Cemetery.— Anniversary of the day of St Francis.— The Mission Dolores.— Tlio Span-
ish races in California.— The Custom- House Block.— The steamship WinfieUl Scott wrecked.—
I Election of officers of the Fire Department.— The Sonorian Filibusters.— Opening of the Metro-
r politan Theatre.— Great sales of water lots.— Montgomery block 467

CHAPTER XXVII.— Numbers and description of the population of the State.— Amount of gold
produced from California mines.— San Francisco as related to California.— Population of San
Francisco. — City im])rovements.— Commercial statistics 484

12 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXVIIL— Prosperity of San Francisco.— Business activity.— Fortunes rapidly made.—
Disputes concerning titles to real estate.— Real property commanding extravagantly liigh prices.
—Social, moral and intellectual characteristic!'.- Gambling.— Vice less concealed in San Francisco
than in other cilie.s.- Tlic female poi)ulation.— Expenses of housekeeping.— Foreign population.
—The rnarvullous progress of the city during the past few years 497

CUAPTER XXIX.— Meeting of citizens regarding the State Revenue Act— Run on Adams & Co.
—Banking and banking-house?.— The Express Building.— Weather unusually cold.— Effects of
the weather upon the interests of the country.— Le Count & Strong's Directory for 1854. —
Loss of the clipper ship San Francisco.— The city lighted with gas.— Riot at the Mercantile
Hotel 510

CHAPTER XXX.— Commercial depression. — Decrease in the value of real estate and merchandise.
—Combination of the steamboat owners. — Rates of freight and passage on river steamers.—
Duels and duelling.— Sale of "government reserve" town lots. — Celebration of St Patrick's day.
—Conviction of filibusters. — Opening of the San Francisco branch mint — The Pacific railroad. —
Fallingof the U. S. bonded-warehouse.— Explosion of tlio boiler of the steamboat "Secretary."
— Arrival of Chinese immigrants. — Quick passage of the clipper ship " Flying Cloud." — Wreck of
the "Golden Fleece" 519

CHAPTER XXXI.— Tri.il of the Mexican consul.— Arrest of the French consul.— Chinese nowsp.v
per established. — German May-feast at Russ's Garden. — The Iloadley street grades. — Indictment
by the Grand Jury of Sonora filibusters. — Dedication of the Lone Mountain Cemetery. — Exten-
sive Coutlagration. — Report of the funded debt commissioners.— Squatter difficulties. — Sale of
public property. — Captain Adams arrived with the Japan treaty. — Alderman elected 531

CHAPTER XXXII: — Commercial depression. — Reduction of prices of merchandise and real estate.
— Fall in rents. — Improved character of the buildings. — The plaza being improved. — Govern-
ment fortifications of tlie harbor commenced. — Immigration and emigration. — The population.
— Yield of the gold mines. — Labor profitable in California. — The quicksilver mi^es. — Agricul-
tural resources. — Fisheries. — Telegraphs and railroads. — Ship-building. — Foreign relations. — Ice
and coal trade. — Mail steamers between San Francisco and Shanghae. — The international rail-
way. — San Francisco water front extension. — The proposed new city charter. — Claim of the
city to Pueblo lands. — Increase of sources of domestic comfort — Immoralities continue to pre-
vail. — Duel and duelling. — Theatrical entertainments. — Daily newspapers. — Means of moral and
educational improvement 543

PART III.

TiiE ITou.vDS. .. 558

The Vigilance Committee 563

DkATHS and liUKIALS 588

Tub Great Fires 598

The Fire Department 614

Steamer-Day 626

Hotels, Restaurants and Boardinq-Hodses 689

Public A.mc8ement8 653

Some Phases of San Francisco " Life " 665

Public Scnooi.8 675

Chdrohes and Religion \ 687

Independent Military Organizations 702

Social and Benkvolf.nt Institutions 709

.MF.H0IK of John W. Geary 718

" ClIAni.ES J. Bl'.KNIIAM .... 735

•* Stephen R. Harris, M. D 740

" C. K. Garrison 744

" Samuel Brannan. 745

JosEi'ii L. F0L.S0M 754

Thomas O. Larkim 758

CONTENTS.

Mehoce of John A. Sutter

" Mariako de Guadalitpb Vaixejo.

" Edwakd Gilbekt

" TViiUA-M D. M. Howard

" Joseph F. Atwell

" JoKATHAJf D. StEVESSON

" Wluiam M. Gwrs-

" Selim E. "Woodwoeth

" Theodore Patne

766
769
773
779
7S1
7S4
790
794
799

APPENDIX.

Great Seal op the State of Calitoen'ia 805

Constitution of the State of California 806

Act of Corporation of the City of San Francisco 816

MiiiirREBS OF THE Societt OF Caufoenia Pioneebs 822

umsmn

¥^»^

Custom-house, now (1S54) being erected on Battery street.

ILLUSTllATIONS.

1. — Bartlett's General Map, showing the countries explored by the United

States and Mexican Boundary Commission .
•1. — Montgomery street, San Francisco, north, from California street. Frontispiece.
:{. — Custom-house, being erected on Battery street, San Francisco . 14

4. — Seal of the Society of California Pioneers . . . .19

5. — Map of the City of San Francisco ..... 20

(j. — Portrait of Sir Francis Drake . . . . . .27

7. — Sir Francis Drake and California Indians .... 29

8. — Sir Francis Drake's Ba}', or Jack's Harbor . . . .32

'.". — Landing of Captain Woodes Rogers, in Upper California . . 35

lu. — View of the country in the interior of California . . .39

11. — Spanish Ship of Seventeenth Century, and Coast of California . 42

12. — Mission Dolores, or Mission of San Francisco . . .48

13. — California Indians . . . . . . . 52

14. — Indians under Instruction . . ■ ... 57

15. — Father Garzes and California Indians .... 59

ILLUSTBATIONS.

IG. — Mission of Santa Barbara

17. — Mission of San Carlos

IS. — A Mission Rancho

19. — Portrait of Father Antonio Pejri

2i). — Sutter's Fort, or New Helvetia

21. — Portrait of Colonel John C. Fremont

22. — Portrait of Thomas 0. Larkin

23. — Portrait of Commoaore Robert F. Stockton

24.— Sutter's Mill

25. — City of Monterey

26. — ^Entrance to the Golden Grate

2':.— The Golden Gate

28.— City of Stockton . ■ .

29. — Island and Cove of Yerba Buena

30. — Portrait of Jacob Primer Leese

31. — Celebration of the ith of July at Leese's House

32. — San Francisco from the Bay, in 1847

33. — Suffering Immigrants in the Sierra Nevada

34. — Rush for the Gold Regions

35. — San Francisco in the Winter of 1848

36. — A Miniug Scene ....

37. — San Francisco in 1849, from the head of Clay street

3 8. -^Prison-brig Euphemia and Store-ship Apollo

39. — San Francisco in 1849, from head of California street

40. — Parker House and Dennison's Exchange, December, 1849

41. — Muddy Streets ......

42. — Lodging House ......

43. — Parker House, when first opened . . . .

44. — Adobe Custom-house on Portsmouth squnre

45. — Post-office, corner of Pike and Clay streets .

46. — The Presidio of San Francisco ....

4*7. — San Francisco, April, 1850, south side of Portsmouth square
48.— Fire of May 4th, 1850 .....

49. — Diagram of Fire of May 4th, 1850 . . . .

50. — Custom-house, corner of Montgomery and California streets
51. — Sacramento City ......

52. — Emigrant Train ......

53.— Beach of Yerba Buena Cove, "Winter of 1849-50

54. — Aldermen's Medals . . . • .

'55. — San Francisco, Winter of 1849-50 . . . .

FAOE

65
69
f3
76
So
91
95
113
131
138
151
153
155
158
167
170
177
189
203
206
213
224
232
234
242
244
247
251
255
200
263
270
274
275
282
285
287
298
306
309

ILLUSTRATIONS.

66.— City-hull, February 22.1, 1851

57._Fire of May 4th, 1851

58. — San Francisco after the Fire of May 4tli, 1851

69. — Caricature : " The King's Campaign "

60. — Hanging of Jenkins on tlie Phiza

61. —Old City Hotel ....

62. — Residence of Samuel Brannan, Esq., in 1847

63. — Jenny Lind Theatre ....

64. — East side of Portsmouth square. Spring of 1850

66. New World Market, corner of Commercial and Leidesdorfif streets

6C. — Chinese Merchants and Coolie

67. — Chinese Gambling House

68. — Chinese Females ....

69. — Chinese Merchants

70. — Clipper-ship

71. — Scene in the Gold Mines

72. — Parrott's Granite Block .

73. — A Street Scene on a rainy night

74. — Wreck of the Steamship Tennessee

75. — United States' Marine Hospital

76. — Lagei'-bier Politicians

77. — New Rassette House

78. — First Congregational Church

79. — Unitarian Church

80. — French Shoe-blacks: a Street Scene

81. — Outer Telegraph Station

82. — InniT Telegraph Station .

83. — St. Francis Hotel, after the fire

84. — Interior of a Mission Church

85. — Custom-house Block

86. — Montgomery Block

87. — Inteiior of the El Dorado : a Gambling Scene

88. — San Francisco Beauties : the Celestial, the Senora and Madame

89. — Colored Population : Greaser, Chinaman and Negro

90. — View of San Francisco in 1854 ....

91. — Express Building ......

92. — Wilson's Exchange, Sansorae street

93. — Snn Francisco U. S. Branch Mint ....

94. — City of Oakland, Contra Costa . ...

95. — Celebration at Russ's Garden .....

ILLUSTRATIONS.

96. — Lone Mountain Cemetery

97. — Plaza, or Portsmouth Square, June, 1854

98. — Charcoal Merchant

99. — California Exchange, corner of Clay and Kearny sti'eets, June, 1854
100. — 2»ew Merchants' Exchange, Battery street .
101.— The Hounds ....

102. — Hanging of Whittaker and McKenzie
103. — Hanging of James Stuart
104. — Yerba Bueua Cemetery
105.— Fire of June 22d, 1851

106. — Diagram of the Burnt District, May 4th, 1851
107. — Diagram of the Burnt District, June 22d, 1851
108. — San Francisco Firemen
109. — Departure of a Steamship
110. — Homeward-bound Miners
111.— Oriental Hotel ....
112. — Interior of Winn's Branch
113. — Turk with Sweetmeats . . •

114.— St. Francis Hotel
115. — The Tehama House
116. — International Hotel .
117. — Russ's Garden ....
1 18. — Portrait of Mrs. A. F. Baker
119. — " Miss Matilda Heron .

120. — Fancy Ball, Califoi-nia Exchange
1 21. — The old School-house on Portsmouth Square
122.— Portrait of Col. T. J. Nevins
123. — First Presbyterian Church

124. — Presbyterian Church, destroyed by fire, June 22d, 1851
125. — Present Presbyterian Church
126. — Vallejo street Catholic Church
127.— St. Mary's Catholic Church
128. — Armory Hall
129. — Front street, Sacramento City
130. — San FTanciseo Orphans' Asylum
131. — ^Alcalde's Office, Portsmouth Square
132.— Portrait of Col. John W. Geary
133. — " Charles J. Brenham .

134.— " Stephen R. Harris, M. D.

135.— " C. K. Garrison

PAOB

•

536

. 545

549

s, Jnne, 1854

. 551

552

. 553

, •

562

. 580

• •

588

. 598

• •

609

. 612

• •

614

. 626

• •

632

. 639

• y

643

. 645

648

. 650

• •

651

. 653

• «

657

. 661

• •

665

. 675

•

680

. 687

691

. 693

•

696

. 698

• •

702

. 704

• •

709

. 718

•

725

. 735

t •

740

. 744

18 ILLUSTRATIONS.

PASB

186. — Portrait of Samuel Brannan ..... 748

137. — " Joseph L. Folsom ...... 754

138. — " Thomas O. Laikin ..... 758

139._ " John A. Sutter . . . . . .766

140. — " James Marshall ...... 767

141. — " Mariano de Guadalupe Vallejo .... 769

142.— " Edward Gilbert . .... 773

143._ •• William D. M. Howard . . . . .779

144. — •' Jonathan D. Stevenson ..... 784

145.— " William M. Gwin ..... 790

14(1.— " Selim E. Woodworth ..... 794

147._ " Theodore Payne ...... 799

148. — Store of T. Payne <fe Co., formerly the Jackson House . . 803

149.— Great Seal of the State of California . . . . .805

150. — Seal of the City of San Francisco ..... 816

OFFICERS OF THE SOCIETY OF CALIFORNIA TIONEERS, ELECTED JULY Tth, 1854.

J.vrou R. Snydei;, President.

G. B, Post, San Francisco.
J. C. L. Wadsworth, do.
B. S. Lippincott, tlo.
J. P. Leese, Monterey.
J. Belden, Santa Clara.

Vice-Presiden ts.

II. W. Theall, Tuolumne.

P. C. Carillo, Santa Barbara.

J. A. Sutter, Sutter.

J. Bidwell, Butte.

P. B. Curnwall, Sacramento.

W. A. Richardson, Marin.

G. Yount, Napa.

II. L. Ford, Colusi.

C. R. Johnson, Los Angeles.

S. Purd_v. San -Toaquin.

J. Caldwell Low, Secretary. W. T. Sherman, Treaxuier.

W. Van Voorhies,
J. M. Huxley,

Board of Directors.

O. P. Sutton.
G. F. Lemon,

J. Shew,

S. W. HaiKht.

T. A. Warbaas,

Corresponding ilembers.

D. S. Tumor, S. E. Harris, F. Soule,

A. G. Abell.

W. B. Farwell,

nnni

n,-in[

AKNALS OF SAI^ FRiNCISCO.

PART FIRST.

CHAPTER I.

Proposed Treatment of the 'Work— Etymology of the name California— Lower or Old California —
Grixalva and Mendoza— First Discovery— Expeditions of Cortez—Cabrillo—Ferrelo— Drake-
Drake's Description of the Natives — Bodega and San Francisco Bays — Sir Francis Drake's Bay —
Cavendish — Captain Woodes Rogers — His Description of the Natives — The English Buccaneering
Expeditions along the West Coasts of the Americas — Political Reasons why the Spanish Govern-
ment strenuously prosecuted the Discovery and Settlement of the Californias.

It appears expedient, before entering upon the annals of
San Francisco proper, to give a short review of the first dis-
covery, settlement, and progress of California itself, including
an account of the aboriginal inhabitants, and of the first estab-
lishment, rise, and decline of the priest class, their sovereigns,
whose domination forms a most peculiar and interesting phase
in the general history of the country. The subject indeed com-*
prebends, or naturally demands, some notice of these points ;
for, up to a recent period, San Francisco, from its being the
" golden gate " to the wealth of the State, and from its many
physical advantages, its population, the rapidity and grandeur
of its wondrous rise and progress, the energy of its citizens, the
extent of its home and foreign commerce, its universal fame,
arising chiefly from its being associated in the minds of men,

22 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

Americans as well as foreigners, with the first discovery and
subsequent astonishing produce of gold — San Francisco, from
these and other causes, has been in a great measure identified
with California itself No history, therefore, of the city, could
be complete, unless it included some account of the circum-
stances which preceded and immediately accompanied its rise,
and which have made it what it almost already is, but which it
will more plainly soon become, the greatest and most magnifi-
cent, wealthy and powerful maritime city in the Pacific — a city
which is destined, one day, to be, in riches, grandeur and influ-
ence, like Tyre or Carthage of the olden time, or like Liverpool
or New York of modern days.

We propose to embody in a succinct and continuous narra-
tive, the subjects already particularly noticed — a general account
of the causes, progress, and consequences of the war of 1846,
between the Mexican and American States — the cession of Cali-
fornia to the latter — the first discovery of gold, and the imme-
diate results of that discovery upon the prosperity and popula-
tion of the country — its admission as a State into the American
Union — and a description of its physical geography, and of its
commercial, agricultural, pastoral, and mineral wealth, and
capabilities to receive and satisfy millions of additional inhabit-
ants. These matters will form Part First of the work.

We shall afterwards, at somewhat greater length, describe,
in a similar continuous narrative, the progress and the various
incidents which happened, year by year, and month by month,
in San Francisco itself, from the period when California was
ceded by the Mexicans, and State and town became American, up
to the present time, and which, properly speaking, alone consti-
tute the " Annals " of the city. This subject will constitute
Part Second.

In the subsequent portion of the volume, we shall devote
special chapters, in no particular order, to the more minute details
of whatever things were most peculiar and interesting — physical
and intellectual, social and moral, and their causes and conse-
quences — which marked the progress of the city, and gave it a
world-wide reputation for good or for evil. In this division of
the work will be included biographical and personal sketches,

ETYMOLOGY OF THE NAME CALIFOENIA, 23

and anecdotes of the more prominent and distinguished actors in
the bustling scenes of the time, and whose names are closely
associated either with the general history of California, or with
the particular rise and progress of San Francisco itself These
topics will be comprehended in and constitute Part Third.

The remembrance of these matters is still fresh in the minds
of our people ; but, in the silent lapse of years, many of them
must gradually fade away. It would then be well, that after the
present generation disappears, our posterity should know something
of the early history and triumphant progress of their glorious
city, and of its worthiest or most noted sons, and the exciting,
troublous scenes of the last seven or eight years, all drawn from
the fullest and most accurate sources that are still to be had.
We propose then to make this book an original record of the sub-
jects alluded to.

The etymology of the name California is uncertain. Some
writers have pretended that it is derived from the two Latin
words caUda fornax, or, in the Spanish language, caUente fornalla
— a hot furnace. This, however, is doubted by Michael Venegas,
a Mexican Jesuit, in his " Natural and Civil History of California"
(2 vols. Madrid, 1758), a work of much research and high au-
thority. In his opinion, the early Spanish discoverers did not
name their new-found lands in this pedantic fashion. " I am
therefore inclined to think," he says, " that this name owed its
origin to some accident ; possibly to some words spoken by the
Indians, and misunderstood by the Spaniards," as happened in
several other cases.

The name California is first found in Bernal Diaz del Castillo,
an officer who served under Hernando Cortez, in the conquest of
Mexico, and who published a history of that extraordinary expe-
dition ; and is by him limited to a single bay on the coast. On
the other hand, Jean Bleau, the celebrated geographer (Amster-
dam, 1662), includes under the term all those immense tracks of
country lying west of New Spain and New Galicia, comprehend-
ing the whole coast Une from the northern parts of South America
to the Straits of Anian (Behring's Straits). In this larger sense
of the word, Jean Bleau is followed by several other geographers.

24 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

However, whatever be the limits of the country, the name has
occasionally changed. In some English maps it is called New
Albion, because Sir Francis Drake, the well known English
admiral, who touched on the coast in 1579, so styled it. About
a century later, it is denominated Islas Carolina s (the penin-
sula of California being then supposed to be an island), in honor
of Charles II. of Spain ; and this designation was adopted by
several writers and geographers of repute. After a time, the
original name of California was revived, and soon silently and
universally adopted.

California — meaning the existing Lower, or Old California,
was known to be a peninsula so early as 1541, when a map drawn
up at Madrid, by Castillo, already mentioned, represents the
direction of the coasts nearly as they are known at present. Yet
this fact was unaccountably forgotten for one hundred and sixty
years, when Father Klihn (Kino, of the Spaniards) seemed, for
the first time, to prove that California was not an island, but a
peninsula. In the early part of the sixteenth century, dreams of
a direct western opening to the Indias filled men's minds, as
later did those of a north-west passage. This was the first idea
of Columbus, which led to his great discoveries, and which he
held till death. In 1523, Charles V., in a letter, dated from
Valladolid, recommended to Cortez to seek on the eastern and
western coasts of New Spain, for such a passage. Cortez, in his
answer to the emperor, speaks with the greatest enthusiasm of
the probability of such a discovery, " which," he adds, " wiU
render your majesty master of so many kingdoms that you will
be considered as the monarch of the world ; " and seems to have
undertaken several voyages for the purpose of ascertaining the
fact.

In 1534, Cortez fitted out two ships under the command of
Hernando Grixalva and Diego Becerra de Mendoza, a relation of
his own, partly to learn the fate of a missing vessel of a previous
expedition, but chiefly to continue the coast discoveries. These
two ships happened to separate the first night following their
departure from Tehuantepec, and did not meet again. Grixalva,
after sailing three hundred leagues, came to a desert island, which
he called Santa Thome, believed to lie near the point of Califor-

EXPEDITIONS OF HERNANDO COBTEZ. 25

nia. This is supposed to be one of the group of islands now
called the Bevillagigedo Islands. He proceeded no farther north,
and made no fresh discoveries ; but shortly afterwards returned
to New Spain. Becerra, the commander of the other ship of this
expedition, was of a choleric, haughty disposition ; and, having
shown that offensively to his people, was murdered by a malcon-
tent crew, led on by his pilot Ortun, or Fortuno Zimenes, a native
of Biscay.

Zimenes afterwards continued the voyage of discovery, and
appears to have sailed westward across the gulf, and to have
touched the peninsula of California. This was in the year 1534.
He therefore was the first discoverer of the country. " But,"
says Venegas, '' he could not fly from the hand of Omnipotence ;
for coming to that part which has since been called Santa Cruz
Bay, and seems to be part of the inward coast of California, he
went ashore, and was there killed by the Indians, with twenty
other Spaniards." Upon this disaster, the remaining crew got
frightened, and returned to New Spain, This Bay of Santa
Cruz, so named by Cortez the following year, seems to be the
same as that now called La Paz, lying on the western side of the
Gulf of California, about a hundred miles north of Cape St.
Lucas. Some writers, however, suppose it to have been situated
much nearer the southern extremity of the peninsula.

Humboldt, in his " Political Essay on the Kingdom of New
Spain," in stating these circumstances, mentions in a note, that
he found in a manuscript preserved in the archives of the vice-
royalty of Mexico, that California was discovered in 1526, though
he knew not, he says, on what authority this assertion was founded.
From an examination which he seems to have made of other
manuscripts of the period, preserved in the Academy of History
at Madrid, Humboldt seems satisfied that this alleged discovery
of CaUfomia in 1526 was unfounded, and that the country had
not even been seen in the expedition of Diego Hurtado de Men-
doza, who was a near relation of Cortez, so late as 1532.

In 1535, Cortez himself coasted both sides of the Gulf of
California, which was first called the Sea of Cortez, but was more
generally known as the Mar Roxo, 6 Vermejo, (the Red, or
Vermillion Sea), probably from its resembling the Bed Sea

26 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

between Arabia and Egypt in shape, or from the discoloration of
its waters at the northern extremity by the Rio Colorado, or
Red River. Gomara, tlie Spanish historian, in 1557, likened it
more judiciously to the Adriatic. In the English maps, it is gen-
erally marked as the Gulf of California. Francisco de Ulloa,
at command and likewise at the personal expense of Cortez,
prosecuted farther discoveries along the coast, and during the
subsequent two years, succeeded in exploring the gulf nearly
to the mouth of the Colorado. Neither Cortez, however, nor
Ulloa seems to have discovered the coast of New or Upper
California.

That honor was reserved to Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, one of
the pilots of Cortez. Cabrillo was a Portuguese by birth, and a
man of great courage and honor. On the 27th June, 1542,
under instructions from the then viceroy of Spain, Antonio de
Mendoza, he sailed from the port of Navidad in Mexico, on
an expedition of discovery of the coast towards the north. He
touched at various places on the voyage. The large cape between
the fortieth and forty-first degrees of latitude he named CV/jje
Mendoza, or Mendocino, in honor of the viceroy. Cabrillo reached
44° lat. N., where he found the cold (10th March) intense.
This, the want of provisions, and the bad condition of his ships,
compelled him to return to Navidad, the harbor of which place
he re-entered on 14th April, 1543. This is according to the
authority of Venegas. Other accounts say that Cabrillo, who
had been long sick, and was overcome at last by the fatigues of
the voyage, died at Port Possession, in the Island of San Ber-
nardo, one of the Santa Barbara group, about the thirty-fourth
parallel, upon the 3d January, 1543, leaving the subsequent
guidance of the expedition farther northwards to Bartolome
Ferrelo, his pilot. Ferrelo is said to have named a promon-
tory about the forty-first degree of latitude, Caho de Fortunas
(Cape of Perils, or Stormy Cape), from the rough weather and
dangers encountered in its vicinity. This promontory is supposed
to be the same, already noticed, which was called Cape Men-
docino. There is therefore some discrepancy between the accounts
of the voyage under the command of Cabrillo, or successively
of him and his pilot Ferrelo. NeHher of these navigators,

EXPEDITION OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE,

however, while they noticed and named various prominent points
of the coast, seem to have discovered the entrance to the great
Bay of San Francisco.

Sib Francis Drake. — From an old English Painting.

In 1577, Sir Francis, then only Captain Drake, already dis-
tinguished as an experienced navigator, fitted out, with the pecu-
niary aid of some friends, a buccaneering expedition against the

28 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

Spaniards, which ultimately led him round the globe. In those
days, and for a long time afterwards, the rich Spanish ships, which
bore over so many seas the wealth of their new-found world, were
the natural prey of the English buccaneers — or, to give them a
more honorable title, since they generally sailed under formal
license from the government, of the Enghsh privateers. Drake,
Cavendish, Dampier, and many other famous early navigators,
were all of that class. The wealth of the Philippines was gen-
erally conveyed by a single annual galleon from Manilla to
Acapulco, on its way to Europe. To intercept this particular
ship was one great aim of these privateers. Drake, in his expe-
dition of 1577, after safely threading the Straits of Magellan,
reached, at length, the Pacific, north of the equator, and appears,
in 1579, to have sailed along the shores of California. All along
the west coast of the Americas he had been capturing and plun-
dering the newly settled Spanish towns, and such ships as came
in his way. Wishing at length to return home, and afraid lest
the Spaniards might be waiting to catch him off the Straits of
Magellan, he tried to sail westward, and so reach England by the
Cape of Good Hope. This was in the autumn of 1579. Con-
trary winds preventing that course, " he was obliged," to use the
language of an old chronicler of the voyage, " to sail towards the
north ; in which course, having continued at least six hundred
leagues, and being got into forty-three degrees north latitude,
they found it intolerably cold ; upon which they steered south-
wards, till they got into tliirty-eight degrees north latitude,
where they discovered a country, which, from its white cliffs they
called Nova Albion, though it is now known by the name of
California.

" They here discovered a hay, which entering with a favorable
gale, they found several huts by the water side, well defended
from the severity of the weather. Going on shore, they found a
fire in the middle of each house, and the people lying round it
upon rushes. The men go quite naked, but the women have a
deer skin over their shoulders, and round their waist a covering
of bulrushes after the manner of hemp.

" These people bringing the admiral (Drake) a present of
feathers and cauls of network, he entertained them so kindlv

DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES.

and generously, that they were extremely pleased, and soon after-
wards they sent him a present of feathers and bags of tobacco.
A number of them coming to deliver it, gathered themselves
together at the top of a small hill, from the highest point of which
one of them harangued the admiral, whose tent was placed at the
bottom. When the speech was ended, they laid down their arms
and came down, offering their presents ; at the same time
returnins: what the admiral had 2;iven them. The women
remaining on the hill, tearing their hair and making dreadful
bowlings, the admiral supposed them engaged in making sacri-
fices, and thereupon ordered divine service to be performed at his
tent, at which these people attended with astonishment.

Sir Francis Drake and the California Indians.

" The arrival of the EngHsh in California being soon known
through the countr}"-, two persons in the character of ambassadors
came to the admiral, and informed him, in the best manner they

30 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

were able, tliat the kinj;- would visit him, if he might be assured
of coming in safety. Being satisfied on this point, a numerous
company soon appeared, in front of which was a very comely
person, bearing a kind of sceptre, on which hung two crowns, and
three chains of great length. The chains were of bones, and the
crowns of net work, curiously wrought with feathers of many
colors.

"Next to the sceptre-bearer came the king, a handsome
majestic person, surrounded by a number of tall men, dressed in
skins, who were followed by the common people, who, to make
the grander appearance, had painted their faces of various colors,
and all of them, even the children, being loaded with presents,

" The men being drawn up in line of battle, the admiral
stood ready to receive the king within the fences of his tent.
The company having halted at a distance, the sceptre-bearer made
a speech, half an hour long, at the end of which he began sing-
ing and dancing, in which he was followed by the king and all
the people ; who, continuing to sing and dance, came quite up to
the tent ; when sitting down, the king took off his crown of
feathers, placed it on the admiral's head, and put on him the
other ensigns of royalty ; and it is said that he made liim a
solemn tender of his luhole kingdom j all which the admiral
accepted in the name of the queen his sovereign, in hopes that
these proceedings might, one time or other, contribute to the
advantage of England.

" The common people, dispersing themselves among the admi-
ral's tents, professed the utmost admiration and esteem for the
English, whom they considered as more than mortal ; and accord-
ingly prepared to offer sacrifices to them, which the English
rejected with abhorrence, directing them, by signs, that their
religious worship was alone due to the Supreme Maker and
Preserver of all things.

" The admiral and some of his people, travelling to a distance
in the country, saw such a quantity of rabbits, that it appeared
an entire warren ; they also saw deer in such plenty as to run a
thousand in a herd. The earth of the country seemed to

PROMISE RICH VEINS OF GOLD AND SILVER, SOME OF THE ORE
BEING CONSTANTLY FOUND ON DIGGING.

BODEGA, SAN FRANCISCO, AND DRAKE'S BAYS, 31

" The admiral, at his departure, set up a pillar with a large
plate on it, on which was engraved her majesty's name, picture,
arms, and title to the country ; together with the admiral's name,
and the time of his arrival there."

This is a curious and interesting picture of the aborigines of
California. From the description of their naked bodies and
painted faces, their bowlings, singing and dancing, the girdles of
bulrushes of the women, and the " kind of sceptre, on which
hung " the chains of bone and the crowns of network " curiously
wrought with feathers of many colors," of the king, it may be
presumed that the people were in the rudest state of barbarism.
Though the earth seemed streaked with gold, or, as Pinkerton
says in his description of Drake's voyage, " the land is so rich in
gold and silver, that upon the slightest turning it up with a
spade or pick-axe, these rich metals plainly appear mixed with
the mould," yet the natives do not appear to have worn any orna-
ments made of these metals, which has usually been the case with
other savages when they had access to them. The beauty and
purity of the metals named, especially of gold, and the ease of
working in them, naturally render them precious in the eyes of
the most barbarous tribes. Unless, therefore, we suppose the
Indians to have been the most stupid and helpless people exist-
ing, it may be reasonably doubted whether so extensive indica-
tions of gold and silver were found as the broad statements of
the chroniclers seem to imply. Certainly, however, the traces of
the precious metals discovered by Drake were the first authentic
intimation of the mineral wealth of the country.

There is no reason to suppose that Drake knew of the previ-
ous discovery of the country by the Spaniards ; and accordingly
long afterwards, and even with people to this day, it has been
believed that he was the first discoverer of California. Queen
Elizabeth afterwards knighted him for his services in this and
previous expeditions, " telling him, at the same time," in the
words of the writer of his voyages already quoted, " that his ac-
tions did him more honor than his title." The queen, however,
took no steps to secure the country which her admiral had discov-
ered : and the " pillar, with a large plate on it," and all its rusted

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

engravings, may peradventure be yet some day discovered by the
antiquary.

In popular estimation the hay which Drake entered is behev-
ed to be that of San Francisco ; while many who might have liad
opportunities to examine into the subject have hastily concluded

Sir Francis Dvake's Bay, or Jack's Harbor

that it must have been Bodega Bay. There is, however, another
bay not far from these, and lying between them, known formerly
under the very name of Sir Francis Drake's Bay, though better
now as Jack's Harbor. This, on a careful examination of the
subject, seems to have been the true and only bay which Drake
ever visited on the coast. There is a sad confusion, even among
recent writers and geographers, as to the names and relative
positions of these bays. Most of them seem to think that
Bodega and Drake's Bays are the same. Thus Humboldt says,
" This port (San Francisco) is frequently confounded by geogra-

SIR FRANCIS drake's BAY. 33

phers with the Port of Drake farther north, under the 38° 10,'
of latitude, called by the Spaniards the Puerto de Bodega." The
latitude of Jack's Harbor, or Drake's Bay, is 37° 59' 5" (longitude
122° 5n\')j thus corresponding exactly with the statement of the
chronicler ; while San Francisco and Bodega Bays are a good
many miles to the south and north respectively of the parallel
named by him. If Drake had really entered San Francisco Bay,
it is more than likely that he, or his chronicler, would have said
something more of its peculiarities — its unusual excellence, and
the great arms which it stretches both to south and north. In
the English maps, constructed after Drake's voyage, there is a
bay laid down bearing his name ; although, owing to the general
ignorance of the coast and the confusion in regard to particular
bays alluded to, this bay has been often held to be the same as
that of Bodega. There is, therefore, every probability that the
Bay of San Francisco had never been seen at all by either the
Spanish or the English navigators (for there were others of the
latter nation after Drake alcmg the California coast), but that,
in reality, it was discovered by travellers on land, and most pro-
bably first by the missionaries in 1769. It may also be remarked
in corroboration of these opinions, that the white cliffs and the
abundance of rabbits seen by Drake, closely correspond to the
present description of Punta de los Reyes (Cape of Kings), and
the country around Jack's Harbor. The cliffs about this part of
the coast, for a space of nearly forty miles, resemble in height
and color, those of Great Britain in the English Channel, at
Brighton and Dover. Hence the propriety of the old designation
of the country, Neiu Albion. We give an illustration of these
clifis and of Drake's Bay. This bay has somehow grown out of
most peojile's remembrance, or at least their appi'cciation, since it
is a very safe and most important port of refuge along a foggy and
dangerous coast. A number of fishing vessels have made use of
it during the last few years, and it was their crews who dubbed
it Jack's Harbor, in ignorance of its previous name. It is likely
that public attention will be called to its peculiar advantages
before long. We think, however, that no new name should be
allowed to supersede the historical one of " Sir Francis Drake's

34 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

Bay." It would be a pity not to preserve some such remembrance
of one of the greatest and earHest navigators along our coasts.

On the 14th of October, 1587, Captain Thomas Cavendish,
afterwards knighted by Queen Elizabeth, when in a privateering
expedition against the Spaniards, fell in with Cape St. Lucas,
at the extremity of California. A fine bay, named by the Span-
iards Aguada Segura, is within this cape, and there Cavendish
lay in wait for the Acapulco galleon, laden with the wealth of the
Philipi)ines. At length she appeared, and after a severe fight,
was taken possession of by the English admiral. " This prize,"
says the relator of the voyage, " contained one hundred and
twenty-two thousand pezoes of gold, besides great quantities of
rich silks, satins, damask and musk, and a good stock of provi-
sions." Pretty fair all that for an English adventurer ! In those
days, piracy was honorable^ and legalized by formal license, though
the spoil was only gold and silver and light moveable goods — booty
of tiie common robber. After all, the old buccaneers were poor
grovelling souls. In our own times, pirates — called " filibusters,"
whose business is notoriouslv unlawful, have much grander views
of glory and profit. Cuba and Sonora, which are countries equal
to Italy of the old world in beauty, fertility and real wealth, are
certainly prizes worth stealing and fighting for — the rewards of
Alexanders, Caesars and Bonapartes. But then, principles of
action being nearly the same, " Young America" is very much
smarter than " Old England,"

The next Englishman who is specially recorded to have
touched the California coast is Captain Woodes Rogers, who was
in command of the usual filibustering or privateering expeditions.
This was in November, 1709. He describes the aborigines of the
peninsula as being " quite naked, and strangers to the European
manner of traificking. They lived in huts made of boughs and
leaves, erected in the form of bowers, with a fire before the
door, round which th(?y lay and slept. The men were quite naked,
and the women had only a short petticoat reaching scarcely to the
knee, made of silk grass, or the skins of pelicans or deers. Some
ot them wm-e pearls about their necks, which they fastened with
a string of silk grass, having first notched them round : and
Captam Rogers imagined that they did not know how to bore

CAPTAIN WOODES ROGERS.

them. These pearls were mixed with sticks, bits of shells and
little red berries, which they thought so great an ornament that
they would not accept of glass beads of various colors, which the
English would have given them. The men are straight and well
built, having long black hair, and are of a dark brown complexion.
Tliev live bv hunting and fishing. Thev use bows and arrows,

Landing of Captain Woodos Rogers, — from an old English engraving.

and are excellent marksmen. The women, whose features are
rather disagreeable, are employed in making fishing lines, or in
gathering grain (doubtless what grew spontaneously), which they
grind upon a stone. The people were willing to assist the English
in filling water, and would supply them with whatever they could
get ; they were a very honest people, and would not take the
least thing without permission." This description, and that
already given from Drake's voyage, make up a pretty complete
picture of the aborigines of the Californias. They appear to have
been a simple, honest, good-natured, stupid race of people, and,

11484B0

36 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

in most respects, resemble the savages which we find in other
newly discovered countries.

Cai)tain Rogers was, of course, lying in ambush for the
" great IManilla ship ; " and, in due course of time, she appeared
and was captured. " The prize was called Nuestra Seriora de la
Incarnacion, commanded by Sir John Pichberty, a gallant French-
man ; and the prisoners said that the cargo in India amounted
to two millions of dollars. She carried one hundred and ninety-
three men, and mounted twenty guns."

As illustrating the career of these English buccaneers, and
the state of terror in which the Spaniards were constantly kept
by their depredations, and which was one of the chief causes that
induced the Spanish Government, as we shall afterwards see,
strenuously to prosecute farther discoveries and settlements along
the coast of California, we shall give a copy of a deed, or instru-
ment, executed between the said Captain Rogers and the town
of Guiaquil. The exploits of Rogers and his men are indeed
much later in date than some of the expeditions yet to be noticed,
of the Spanish navigators along the California coast ; still, as they
forcibly explain one reason, at least, ivhy such exjpeditions were
undertaken on the part of the Spaniards, it appears better to
notice them here than in mere chronological order. The notices \
of the voyages of Drake, Cavendish and Rogers, are taken from I
accounts contained in an old folio volume of voyages and travels ;
kindly placed at our disposal by the " Society of California Pio-

neers."

The "high contracting parties" entered into the following

agreement

"CONTKAOT FOK THE KA.N80M OF THE TOWN OF GuiAQUIL:

" Whereas tlie City of Guiaquil, ]ately ia subjection to Philip V., King
of Spain, is now taken by storm, and in possession of the Captains Thomas
Dover, Woodes Rogers, and Stephen Courtney,"— [the expedition, fitted out
at the cost of some " IJritish gentlemen," consisted of the Dul-e, a ship of
three hundred tons burthen, thirty guns and one hundred and seventy men,
commanded by Rogers, and the Duchess, of two hundred and seventy tons,
twenty-six guns, and one hundred and fifty-one men, under the command of
Courtney]— " commanding a body of her Majesty of Great Britain's subjects ;
we, the underwritten, are content to become hostages for the said city, and to
continue in the custody of the said Captains Thomas Dover, Woodes Rogers and
Stephen Courtney, till thirty thousand pieces of gold should be paid to them

RANSOM OF GUIAQUIL. 37

for the ransom of the said citj', two new shipb, and six barks ; during which
time no hostility is to be committed on either side, between this and Puna :
the said sum to be paid at Puna, within six days from the date hereof; and
then the liostages to be discharged, and all the prisoners to be delivered im-
mediately ; otherwise the said hostages do agree to remain prisoners till the
said sum is discharged in any other part of the world.

In Witness Whereof, We have voluntarily set our hands, this twenty-
seventh day of April, old stile, in the year of our Lord, 1709."

This ransom seems to have been punctually paid, and the
hostages faithfully liberated. However, Captains Thomas Dover,
Woodes Rogers and Stephen Courtney appear, in addition, to
have plundered the town pretty thoroughly.

CHAPTER II.

Eipeditions of Viscaino.— Admiral Otondo and Father Kino.— First settlement, and introduction of
tlie priest nilo in tlie Califurnias.— Failure and witlidravval of the first missions.— Renewed at-
tempts to malie settlements.— Father Salva-Tlerra and his CQadjiitors. - Final establisliment of the
Jesuits ill till" country.— Geographical discoveries of Father Kino.— Jesuits expelled and super-
seded by Franciscan Friars; these, in turn, by the Dominican Monks.— Population and physical
character of Old or Lower California.

We shall now return to the progress of the Spaniai-ds in dis-
covering and settling the coast of California : — In 1596 Gaspar
de Zuniga, Count de Monte-rey, then viceroy of Mexico, received
an order from Philip II. to make farther discoveries and settle-
ments on the coast of California. The visit of Drake, and his
naming and claiming the country as first discoverer, for Queen
Elizabeth, had struck the inhabitants of the coast lower down
with consternation ; and already Englishmen, particularly the
famous Thomas Cavendish, and others, had fortified themselves
on the coast, and molested the rich Spanish ships which yearly
sailed between the Philippine Islands and New Spain, and which
generally made the coast of California about Cape Mendocino.
At that j)eriod, there was much talk of a north-east passage from
the Pacific to the old world by the Straits of Anian (Behring's
Straits), and the S})anish Government in Europe was considerably
alarmed lest the English should, by that probable route, strike a
deadly blow at their unprotected colonies on the west coast of the
Americas. An expedition to make fresh discoveries was accord-
ingly undertaken, and put under the command of General Sebas-
tian Viscaino, a man of great and tried abilities,

Viscaino accordingly sailed from Acapulco, but does not
apj)ear to have proceeded far northwards ; for, in the same year
(15'J6), we find him returned to New Spain. Want of provisions
and unfortunate disputes with the Indians, produced this speedy

EXPEDITIONS OF VISCAINO.

result. The Spanish Government, however, was keeping the
matter in view. In 1599 another order was dispatched from
Europe to Count Monte-rey to fit out a new expedition for the
purposes already mentioned. This again was placed under the
command of General Viscaino. In May, 1602, Viscaino, in
pursuance of his instructions, sailed from Acapulco, and proceeded

View in tlie Interior of California.

northwards till he reached the forty-second degree of latitude.
Up to the twenty-sixth parallel, he appears to have surveyed the
coast minutely ; but between that degree and the most northern
limits of his voyage, he seems to have been satisfied with merely
keeping the land in sight. He discovered the ports of San Diego
and Monterey, which latter was so named in honor of the viceroy.
Still not a word of San Francisco Bay. Indeed it is quite
evident that up to this period that great harbor had escaped
the observation of all the navigators who had attempted to
explore the coast. Viscaino, excited by his imperfect dis-
coveries, and full of hope of making more important ones on
a fresh expedition, solicited the viceroy for permission to pur-
sue it at his own expense ; but the viceroy referred him to the

40 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

Court at Madrid, who seemed to have taken the business into
their own hands. Viscaino therefore visited Spain, and pressed
his suit, but in vain. At last, in KiOG, after Viscaino, wearied
and sick at heart with " hope deferred," had retired, moody and
discontented, to Mexico, another ordinance was issued by PhiHp,
conuuanding a fresh expedition of discovery and settlement to be
undertaken. The conduct of this was bestowed upon Viscaino,
who accepted the charge with alacrity ; but before any progress
was made in the matter, he was seized with a fatal distemper.
After his death nothing was done or said about the expedition.

Various attempts on a moderate scale, partly by adventurers
at their own cost, and partly under royal ordinances, were subse-
quently made to prosecute the survey and settlement of the coast.
In 1615, in 1633 and 1634, in 1640, 1642, 1648, 1665, and
1668, several fruitless efforts were made for these purposes. In
the interval, the public mind was tilled with magnificent views of
the wealth of the scarcely discovered country. It was known
that pearls, of great beauty and value, were found at various
places in the gulf and along the coast. Perhaps also the glowing
statements made by Sir Francis Drake of the golden sands and
other mineral riches which he saw there, helped to fire the ima-
ginations of the Spaniards. Omne ignotum pro magnifico. Cali-
fornia was long viewed as the Dorado of New Spain ; and was
believed not merely to be abounding in pearls and gold and silver,
but also in diamonds, and all manner of other precious metals and
gems. Our own days have justified these sparkling fancies, though
scarcely i)orhaps in the exact manner and localities of which the
old Spaniards dreamed.

In 1677, instructions were, after long and mature delibera-
tion, sent by tlie Court at Madrid to Don Francis Payo Enriquez
de Rivera, archbishop of Mexico, and viceroy of New Spain, to
undertake afresh the survey, conquest and settlement of Califor-
nia ; and that Admiral Pinadero, who had previously carried on
some private expeditions for the same end, at his own cost,
should be emj)loyed in the affair ; — that, if he declined, the
business should be offered to, and managed by others, also at
their expense, under certain specified conditions ; — but that, if no
volunteer came forward, the undertaking should be conducted at

ATTEMPTS TO SETTLE CALIFORNIA. 41

the cost of the Crown. The enterprise fell to Admiral Don
Isidro Otondo and Antillion, who signed an instrument for that
purjiose, in December, 1678, which was approved of at Madrid
on 29th December, 1679. By this deed, the spiritual government
was conferred on the Jesuits and Father Eusebio Francisco Klihn,
— a German by birth, called by the Spaniards Kino, and who was
a distinguished member of the Society of Jesus. This seems the
origin of the connection of the Jesuits and priest class with Cali-
fornia. Otondo and his Jesuits put to sea from Chacala, in May,
1683, and sailed up the gulf During two years the admiral and
his missionary priests, who had meanwhile learned the native
languages, met with various success among the Indians of the
peninsula, many of whom they succeeded in converting to Chris-
tianity. However, they occasionally found rebellious tribes ; and
on the whole, were unable to make any serious impression on their
minds, or to establish any permanent settlement of importance.
This was caused indeed more by the natural barrenness of the
country, and the difficulty and expense of supporting existence
there, than by the vicious habits of the natives, who are described
as a simple, inoffensive and feeble race, more prone to consider
their white visitors as absolute deities on earth than as invaders
of their territorial rights.

The Spanish Court, which appears to have been drawn into a
large expenditure by this expedition, and by another, which im-
mediately followed, conducted by the same parties, soon got tired
of the subject, and judged the conquest and settlement of the
country to be impracticable. They declined, therefore, to prose-
cute the undertaking farther ; but knowing the political impor-
tance of having it somehow accomplished, they recommended the
Society of Jesus to finish it, and ofiered that body large annua]
subsidies from the royal treasury in aid. The Society, after
discussing the " estimates " of Admiral Otondo and Father Kino,
and their own " ways and means," respectfully rejected the royal
proposal ; and thus a measure which had been agitated for nearly
two hundred years, and of which all admitted the political im-
portance, wliile the personal and pecuniary reward of success was
believed to be immense, was abruptly brought to a close. So
doubtful, expensive and dangerous Jid the undertaking appear.

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

that the Crown refused the petition of Captain Francisco Lu-
zcnilhi to attempt it at his own expense. In the year 1G94,
indeed, a royal license was granted to Captain Francisco Itaniarra
for making a descent at his own risk and charges ; but he had no
better success than his predecessors.

Spanish ship of tlie seventeenth century, and coast of California.

The missionaries, who had accompanied the expeditions of
Admiral Otondo, were now drafted to different places elsewhere,
although many of them deeply regretted that the rich harvest of
heathenism should be so suddenly and unexpectedly abandoned,
just when the sickle was sharpened and the laborers were in
the field. They had labored with great industr}' to accom-
plish an object toward which they looked forward with anx-
ious hopes, which they now saw would never be realized.
They thought that their Indian conversions would, sooner or
later, have extended over the whole tribes in California, had
they been enabled to retain settlements there ; while it was
more than probable that their new converts would relapse into
thrir ,,l(l idolatry on the departure of their spiritual teachers.
Witlidut detailing, therefore, the various steps taken by the

FATHER SALVA-TIERRA AND HIS COADJUTORS. 43

Fathers to preserve and advance their spiritual ascendency in
California, it may be sufficient to say, that Father Kino, who had
these conversions much at heart, met with Father Salva-Tierra,
a man, like himself, of great enthusiasm for the Catholic foith,
and of untiring courage, and much benevolence and sweetness of
disposition. These two men, — particularly the latter, who had
chosen St. Francis Xavier as his model, — were the true apostles
of California. Somewhat later. Fathers Francisco Maria Piccolo
and Juan Ugarte associated themselves with these pioneers of
Christianity and civilization. Their biographies would make an
indispensable and most interesting chapter in the early history of
Lower California, but are out of place in this short summary of
the progress of discovery and gradual settlement of the general
country. It is sufficient to observe that their pious zeal urged
them on against every obstacle — the unwillingness of their own
Society of Jesus — the indifference of the Court, when it had to
advance the whole funds — the delays of officials — the poverty of
their own means, and the fewness of their coadjutors. At last,
the eloquence and pertinacity of Father Salva-Tierra kindled
some life among the superiors of theii- order and in a few wealthy
laymen. The last assisted the Society by large donations ; and
soon subscriptions began to pour in from the general public, to
promote the pious work of conquering California to Christianity.
A crusade — peaceful, if the devil got frightened and retired
from the contest ; but warlike, if need were — was proclaimed ;
and all were invited to support the scheme by pecuniary means,
while the Spanish Government supplied the necessary soldiers to
protect the Fathers, and execute their decrees and those of
heaven. It was all, in terms of the motto and ruling spirit of
the Society, ad majorem Dei gloriam ; and great indeed would
be the reward in heaven of the patrons of the business. After
many hardships, and a slow, j)ainful progress, the Jesuit mission-
aries succeeded in planting various missions over the whole
peninsula. Aided by subscriptions from the pious, and donations
from the Crown, they were enabled to give the simple Indians
daily food and a scanty raiment, and soon, with unwearied pa-
tience, converted them into excellent and faithful servants and
devout Christians. They had no more sense than mere children,

44 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

and they were accordingly treated as such. Like children, they
were always helieving and obedient. Ignorant and heli)less, they
were slaves both in body and mind, and knew no will but that of
their si)iritual and temporal lords.

Father Salva-Tierra, in 1705, was chosen provincial of his
Order in Mexico, and thus absolutely governed the country both
in spiritual and temporal things. It was in 1700 and 1701, by
some accounts, and in 1709 by others, that, in the course of sev-
eral journeys undertaken for the purpose. Father Kino discovered
that California was united with the main land. We have seen
that this fact was known as early as 1541, where it appears a
peninsula in the map of Castillo ; but somehow the circumstance
had been unaccountably forgotten, and the contrary was almost
universally believed.

In 1767, the Fathers lost the missions, in consequence of an
ordinance issued by Charles III. for the instant and general ex-
pulsion of the Jesuits from all the Spanish dominions. This
stringent decree was immediately obeyed in the Mexican provinces,
where the Jesuits were arrested without delay, and hundreds of
them shipped off to Europe. They were succeeded in California
by a body of Franciscan Friars from Mexico ; but these in turn
were soon superseded by the Dominican Monks, who still retain
possession of the country.

The population of Lower California was never great, and
towards the end of last century was rapidly diminishing. Hum-
boldt, in his " Political Essay on New Spain," estimates that the
population, in 1803, did not exceed nine thousand of all races, —
somewhat more than the half of which number consisting of the
domesticated converts of the Fathers. The missions had then
been reduced to sixteen. Mr. Alexander Forbes, in his " History"
of Upper and Lower California" (London, 1839), estimates the
total population, in 1835, not to exceed fourteen or fifteen thou-
sand. Compared with New California, the old country of that
name is a dry and barren land — with a serene and beautiful sky,
indeed, but with a rocky, or sandy and arid soil, where rains sel-
dom M\, and vegetation is consequently of little account. Such
a country could never become very populous, either in a savage
or a civilized state.

CHAPTER III.

First settlement of New or Upper California by Franciscan Monks. — Supposed earliest discovery of
San Francisco Bay. — Origin of the name — Establishment of a Mission and Presidio there, and
ceremonies on the occasion. -Gradual establishment of Missions and Presidios over the country. —
List of these, and population of same at various dates. — The gente de razon and the hestias, or
the rational cri'atures and beasts of the country. — Causes why free white settlers few in number. —
Character of the natives as given by Venegas, and other writers. — Progress and apparent destiny
of the Anglo-Saxons in thi< Pacific.

Still later than Old California, and upwards of two hundred
years after its first discovery, New or Upper California, was first
settled. The Spanish Court, afraid, as of old, lest some of the
other maritime nations of Europe should settle on the north-west
coasts of America, and induced by other political reasons,, alluded
to in the previous chapters, sent instructions to the Marquis de
Croix, then viceroy of New Spain, to found missions, and 2)residio8
for their military protection, in the ports of San Diego and
Monterey, and at various other parts of the country. This
was accordingly done, with the aid of the church, in 1769, and
following years ; and immediately, in gratitude or in terms of
special agreement, both the spiritual and temporal government of
the country were put under the control of certain monks of the
Order of St. Francis, two being placed at the head of each mis-
sion established. Presidios, in addition to those at San Diego
and Monterey, were subsequently formed at Santa Barbara and
San Francisco. Father Junipero Serra, — a man of the Salva-
Tierra and Kino stamp, — was the first presiding missionary ; and
under his immediate auspices the mission of San Diego was
founded in 1769, being the earliest.

Without dwelling on the successive establishment of the
other missions, let us say a few words upon that of San Francisco.
The missionaries, in proceeding northwards, with the intention

46 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

of reaching Monterey, happened to take the eastern side of the
ran'^e of mountains whicli borders the coast north of San Diego,
which phice they had just left, after estabhshing its mission.
They inulesignedly passed by Monterey, and journeyed on till
they reached the magnificent bay and harbor which are now
called San Francisco ; and which are said to be so named from
the following circumstance : — Father Junipero, on leaving Lower
California, had received instructions from the visitador, or inspector-
general of the Spanish Government, respecting the names of the
proposed missions, and the saints carefully selected from the
calendar, to whose special patronage they should be entrusted ;
but among them the name of St. Francis did not happen to occur.
" What ! " exclaimed the good missionary, surprised and shocked
at such an insulting neglect, " is not our own dear Father, St.
Francis, to have a mission assigned to him ? " To this remon-
strance, the visitador calndy replied, " If Saint Francis wish a
mission, let him show you a good port, and then it will bear his
name." When accordingly the missionaries, in their progress
northwards, discovered the s[)acious bay mentioned, they cried
out, " This then is the port to which the visitador referred, and
to which the saint has led us — blessed be his name \" And
forthwith they named it San Francisco Bay, in compliment to
their j)atron and guide. They next set up the usual cross, took
formal possession, and returned to San Diego, where they arrived
on the 24th January, 1770. From any thing that can be cer-
tainly learned of the proceedings of previous travellers and voy-
agers, this seems the true and first discover}'^ of that great bay —
nearly two hundred years after Sir Francis Drake was reputed to
have visited it.

The mission itself of San Francisco was only founded in 1776,
though it had been projected ever since the discovery of the
bay, about the end of October, 1769. On the 27th June of the
first mentioned year, an expedition which had started by land
from Monterey, arrived on the borders of a small lake, — the same
which is now called " Washer wotnan's Lagoon," — near the
sea-shore, from which it is separated by a low sand-hill. This is
situated towards the northern extremity of the Peninsula of San
Fmncisco, and the surplus waters of which discharge themselves

MISSION AND PRESIDIO OF SAN FRANCISCO. 47

into the strait that connects the bay with the ocean, and which
was afterwards called the " Golden Gate." The neighborhood of
this lake promised to be the best spot for establishing the mission ;
though it was subsequently planted about two miles to the south.
A store-ship had previously left Monterey with the necessary sup-
plies for the wants of the missionary band. Some soldiers, and
a few families from Sonora, as intending settlers, had accompanied
the expedition. They carried with them a number of black cat-
tle and sheep, horses, mules, field and garden seeds, and other
necessary means of stocking and making the settlements a jjrofit-
able investment. While waiting the arrival of the store-ship from
Monterey, which, owing to foul winds, did not take place till the
18th August following, the expedition began to make preparations
for their permanent abode by cutting down timber, and selecting
what appeared to be the most eligible site for a settlement. On
the l7th day of September, solenm possession was taken of the
presidio — " the day," according to Father Palou, the historian of
the achievements of Father Junipero, "being the festival of the
impression of the sores of Saint Francis, the patron of the port.
After blessing, adoring, and planting the holy cross, the first mass
was chaunted, and the ceremony concluded by a Te Deum ; the
act of possession in the name of our sovereign being accompanied
with many discharges of artillery and musketry by sea and land."
After these ceremonies, the harbor was surveyed, both from the
shore and by means of a launch, from the water ; when it was
ascertained that there was only one outlet to the sea, that by
which the store-ship had entered. On the 9th day of November
— being the day of Saint Francis — a similar ceremony was per-
formed on taking possession of the mission ; when, as Father
Palou remarks of the establishment and consecration of the mis-
sion and church of San Fernando, " the want of an organ and
other musical instruments was supplied by the continual discharge
of the fire-arms during the ceremony, and the want of incense,
of which they had none, by the smoke of the muskets." No
doubt the pious priests thought this was a pretty way of pleasing
the Omnipotent. Certainly it was one admirably suited to en-
chain the minds of the scared natives. The white " sorcerers "
were clearly more clever than the brown ones. This mission sub-

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

soquently boro the name Dolores, in commemoration of the suf-
Ibriniis of the Vii'rin.

Mission of San Francisco.

The Fathers showed much good taste in selecting the site of
the mission buildings, which was a small fertile plain, embosomed
among gentle, green-clad hills, little more than a mile from the
shore and about two miles from the centre of the present city of
San Francisco. Several tiny rivulets of clear, sweet water, met
about tlie spot, whose united streams were conducted to the bay
by one larger creek, known by the name of Mission Creek. Far-
ther north the land was one continued succession of bleak sand-
hills, among which the present city is situated. An exception,
however, must be made of the spot where the presidio was estab-
lished, which indeed was very prettily and agreeably situated A
small cove lay to the eastward of the presidio, within the narrow
entrance to the bay, where good anchorage ground and shelter
could be had. This was the original port of the mission, though
latterly the cove of Yerba Bucna, a few miles distant, and within
the bay itself, was more frequently adopted as a harbor.

On the arrival of this expedition at the bay, many of the
natives had affectionately approached the missionaries with de-

NAMES AND FOUNDATIONS OF THE MISSIONS.

monstrations of peace, and all the signs of extreme pleasure at
their appearance ; but before the ceremonies alluded to — the im-
posing chanted masses and Te Deums, and still more wonderful sal-
vos of artillery and musketry — had been played, the whole of the
natives who had inhabited the place, having been surprised by an
unfriendly tribe, suddenly disappeared. This untoward circum-
stance somewhat delayed the conversions, the first baptism hav-
ing taken place only on Saint John's Day, December 27th, of
the same year.

The names and foundations of the various missions, up to
1803, according to the authority of Humboldt, taking them in
their order from south to north, with their respective Indian pop-
ulations at the close of 1802, are as follows : —

Foundations.

1769
1798
1776
1771
1797
1782
1786
1787
1772
1797
1791
1771
1770
1797
1794
1777
1797
1776

Missions.

Males.

Females.

I San Diego ,

San Luis Rey de Francia, ,

; San Juan Capistrano,

; San Gabriel,

I San Fernando,

I San Buenaventura

! Santa Barbara

j La Purissima Concepcion, ,
] San Luis Obispo,

San Miguel,

Soledad,

San Antonio de Padua, . . .
i San Carlos de Monterey, . .

'San Juan Bautista,

j Santa Cruz,

j Santa Clara,

San Jose,

San Francisco,

Total.

737
256
502
532
317
436
521
457
374
309
296
568
376
530
238
736
327
433

822
276
511
515
297
502
572
571
325
305
267
484
312
428
199
555
295
381

7617

Total.

1559
532

1013

1047
614
938

1093

1028
699
614
563

1052
688
958
437

1291
622
814

15562

l^OTE.— Forbes gives this table as taken from Hmnboldt ; but there is a
slight discrepancy in the two sets of figures. It is possible that the English
translation is incorrect. Forbes' table distinguishes the males and females
which Humboldt's does not. Forbes' table is therefore adopted Avith some
verbal corrections from Humboldt direct. This translation, or the original
work itself, has various discrepancies in its figures. For instance, it talks of
the population being 15,562, at one place, while in its table, for the same year,
the figures summed up, make 15,630.

These populations include only the converted Indians, who
were attached to the missions. There are no statistics which can

50 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

be relied upon as to the numbers of wild Indians, — or gentiles, as
they were called by the Spaniards. Indeed as these gentiles were
naturally of an emigratory habit, roaming from place to place in
search of game, or in pursuit of hostile tribes, they could scarcely
be classed as among the permanent inhabitants of any particular
district of country. It was estimated by Humboldt that, in 1802,
the number of whites, mestizoes and mulattoes, and who lived
either in the presidios or in the service of the monks, was only
about thirteen hundred. These were the gente de razon, or
rational creatures of the country, in contradistinction to the
natives, who were considered only as bestias, or beasts.

In 1802, the total Indian population connected with the
missions, when they were eighteen in number, as shown by the
above table, amounted to 15,562. In 1801, Humboldt says, that
the Indian population was 13,668, and in 1790, when the mis-
sions were eleven in number, it was 7748. La Perouse, in 1786,
when there were only ten missions, estimates the converted or
domesticated Indians at 5143. These figures show a very rapid
increase of population, or rather of conversions, in so few years.
The real increase of population, however, would have been con-
siderable among the gente de razon had not the traditionary cus-
toms or laws, which regulated the Spanish presidios for ages,
stood in the way of the settling of the white population. The
governing priests were jealous of their white subjects {the j^eople
of reason), and wished only a tame Indian population, who
were supposed unable to reason. Therefore the soldiers of the
presidios were not allowed to establish themselves as colonists,
nor was any building permitted to be erected in the neighborhood
of these fortresses. Indeed no marriages were tolerated anions:
the soldiers, without the consent of the Spanish Crown, and such
consent the Fathers hindered as much as lay in their power.
Notwithstanding these impohtic restrictions, the fertility and
pleasantness of the land were so great as gradually to draw a
small number of white settlers from other provinces of New
Spain ; and although grants of land could only flow from the
Fathers themselves, yet, either through flivor or direct interest,
such grants were occasionally obtained, though generally the land
thus given lay at a considerable distance from the missions and
presidios.

POPULATION OF THE MISSIONS, 51

The Indian population attached to the missions were mean-
while becoming an industrious, contented and numerous class,
though indeed, in intelligence and manly spirit, they were little
better than hestias — beasts, after all. Generally speaking, the
Indians along the whole north-west coast of America were a verv
inferior order of beings to the great tribes who inhabited the
Atlantic border ; and, in particular, the different races who
dwelt in California were but poor wandering clans who subsisted
on what they could procure by hunting and fishing, and on the
fruits and grains which grew spontaneously ; but they knew
nothing of the arts of agriculture, or even of a pastoral life.
They might properly enough be compared to the aborigines of
Australia or to the Hottentots, or, perhaps, even the Bosjesmans
of Southern Africa, who have been considered the most barbarous
and brute-like people on the earth. On this subject, Humboldt
remarks that " the Indians of the Bay of San Francisco were
equally wretched at that time (the establishment of the missions),
with the inhabitants of Van Diemen's Land." Venegas has said
of the aborigines of the peninsula, who closely resembled their
brethren in Upper California, that " it is not easy for Europeans
who were never out of their own country to conceive an adequate
idea of these people. For even in the lea«t frequented corners
of the globe there is not a nation so stupid, of such contracted
ideas, and weak both in body and mind, as the unhappy Califor-
nians. Their characteristics are stupidity and insensibility, want
of knowledge and reflection, inconstancy, impetuosity and blind-
ness of appetite, an excessive sloth, and abhorrence of all fatigues
of every kind, however trifling or brutal ; in fine, a most wretched
want of every thing which constitutes the real man and renders
him rational, inventive, tractable, and useful to himself and
society."

The worthy Father Michael certainly paints, in dull enough
colors, his proteges and converts. It may be farther remarked,
that the Indians appear to have had little or no notion of religion,
although they seem to have had a kind of sorcerers among them,
who amused or terrified themselves and their patients with sundry
superstitious observances. Some writers, such as La Perouse,
say, that they had no knowledge of a God or a future state ;

.r2

ANN'ALS OF SAX FRANCISCO.

Others siuii)ly call them idolaters. The natives around San Fran-
cisco Bay appear to have burned the corpses of their people, while
other tribes, more to the south, always buried theirs. Occasion-
allv, they appear to have eaten pieces of the bodies of their more
distinguished adversaries killed in battle, although this was pro-

^^^V\x ^V^

^ >« ^A'S^ •^-\

1. Wakla, chief of tlie Yuba tribe, — civilized and cmplo5-ed by Mr. S. Brannan. 2. A partly
civilized Indian. 3. A wild Indian. — From daguerreotypes by Mr. "W. Shew.

bably only to insure, as they imagined, that a portion of the
brave spirit and good qualities of the slain should enter into and
be incorporated with their own systems along with the literal
flesh of their antagonists.

These notices and the extracts previously given from the voy-
ages of Drake and Cavendish, abundantly establish the fact of
tho wretched state of humanity in California. And so it might
have been till doomsday, had not a new people appeared on the
scene. The Spanish population, and the Fathers, could not, or
would not, as truly they did not, as we may afterwards see, do
any thing to promote the happiness of the human race in the

THE ANGLO-SAXONS IN THE PACIFIC. 53

country. Men feed the ox and the sheep for their milk and
fleece, the hog for his flesh, the ass for the strength of his back,
and all for their increase ; so did the Fathers feed their Indian
converts, and find abundant profit in their labor and personal
services, whom they left, as they perhaps found, if they did not
transform them into moral beasts, just as tame, dull and silly,
dirty, diseased and stupidly obstinate as the other brutes named.
Meanwhile, the little independence, natural intelligence and su-
periority of mind and character which even the rudest savages
possess over the lower creatures were gradually sapped and
brushed away, and the Christian converts left ignorant, super-
stitious and besotted, having neither thoughts nor passions,
strength nor will, but at the command and beck of their spiritual
and temporal teachers and masters. Better, a thousand times,
that the missions and all their two-legged and four-legged beasis
should be ruthlessly swe[)t away, than that so fine a country, one
80 favored and framed by bountiful nature for the support, com-
fort and elevation of her worthier children, should longer lie a
physical and moral waste — a blotch on the fair face of creation.

But another race was destined soon to blow aside the old
mists of ignorance and stupidity, and to develope the exceeding-
riches of the land, which had lain, undisturbed and concealed,
during so many ages. The Spaniards had scarcely proceeded any
way in the great work, — if they had not rather retarded it, — when
the Anglo-Saxons, the true and perhaps only type of modern
progress, hastily stepped in, and unscrupulously swept away both
their immediate forerunners as effete workers, and the aborigines
of the land, all as lumberers and nuisances in the great western
highway of civilization. This highway is fated to girdle the
globe, and probably, in the course of a few centuries, will join
the original starting-point in the natal home of the '' Pilgrim
Fathers " in old England. The " pioneers " of California are our
" Pilgrim Fathers," and there need be not the slightest doubt
but that the empire, or rather the great union of peoples and
nations in the Pacific will soon — perhaps in fifty years, perhaps
in a century — rival, if not surpass the magnificent States of the
Atlantic. Indians, Spaniards of many provinces, Hawaiians,
Japanese, Chinese, Malays, Tartars and Kussians, must all give

54 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

place to the resistless flood of Anglo-Saxon or American progress.
These peoples need not, and most of them probably cannot be
swept from the face of the earth ; but undoubtedly their national
characteristics and 0])posing qualities and customs must be ma-
terially modified, and closely assimilated to those of the civilizing
and dominant race. The English in India have already shown
how a beginning may be made ; the Americans, on the California
coasts, and farther west, will still more develope the modern
system of progress. People may differ in opinion as to the equity
of the particular steps attending the process, and many honest
folk may even doubt its ultimate benefit to mankind ; yet that
some such grand result will hereafter be evolved from the energy
and ebullition of the American character, and from the peculiar
circumstances of American position in the world, must be evident
to all who take a dispassionate and unprejudiced view of the
matter.

Not only are Japan and China much nearer to the Californian 1

coast than India is to England ; but with the aid of steam the

time for accomplishing the distance is immensely reduced. In

the palmy days of the English conquests in India, her ships took

several years to make the voyage out and home. Now, the ocean

steamship may traverse the whole northern Pacific from California

to China, and back again, within two months ! Indian sepoys

fought the battles of England against their own countrymen,

Chinese sepoys may do the same for Americans. China, like

India, has been long used to, and its national spirit broken

by the usurping governments of foreign races. And even

while we write, its extensive dominions are being separated

by a wide-spread and hitherto successful rebellion, into detached

kingdoms under the sway of military chiefs. These, standing

alone, and mutually jealous of their conquering neighbors, may

be easily played off, one against another, by a white people

skilled enough to take advantage of circumstances and direct the

moves of the political chess-board. So it was with the English

in India ; and so it may be with the Americans in China. Only

give us time. England has not been very scrupulous in her

stealthy progress over Hindostan, Ceylon and Birmah. Then

neither need America fear her reproaches, if she, in like manner,

THE ANGLO-SAXONS IN THE PACIFIC. 55

acquire, conquer, or annex the Sandwich Islands, the Islands of
Japan, those of the great Malayan Archipelago, or the mighty
" Flowery Empire " itself A few more years, and a few millions of
Americans on the Pacific may realize the gigantic scheme, which
even our fathers, on the Atlantic border, would have laughed at
as impossible and ridiculous. The railway across, or through the
Snowy and Rocky Mountains, which will bind all North America
with its iron arm into one mighty empire, will facilitate the
operation. And then San Francisco — in the execution and
triumph of that scheme, will assuredly become what Liverpool,
or even London is to England, and what New York is to the
Middle and Eastern States of America — a grand depot for num-
berless manufactures and produce, and a harbor for the fleets of
every nation. Long before that time, the English and American
peoples will have finished the last great struggle which must
some day take place between them for the commercial and polit-
ical supremacy of the world. It is more than probable that the
hosts of English from India, and Americans from California,
will meet on the rich and densely peopled plains of China, and
there decide their rival pretensions to universal dominion. What-
ever may, in 1854, be thought of the relative strength of the
two nations, it appears very evident to the people of America,
that the natural increase of their population must necessarily
make them victors in the end.

CHAPTER IV.

Conduct of the Fathers towards the natires.— Their mode of instructing, employing and subsisting
the converts.— The Fathers do not appear to have promoted the true welfare of the aborigines,
or done any good to humanity.— Pictures, if gaudily colored and horrible in subject, great aids
to conversion. — Missions and population of the country at recent dates. — Table on this subject.—
Tables of the farm produce and domestic cattle of the country.— Table of prices.

It may now be necessary to explain shortly in wliat manner the
Fathers conducted their missions, and the state of their property
and finances down to the decline of their prosperity and ultimate
fall. Their mode of conversion, if not very ingenious, was easy
enough. It was like the teaching of a monkey, or a dog, by
means of food and caresses, or sometimes by kicks, to perform a
few simple tricks. The Indian — like the hare in Meg Dodds', or
it may be Mrs. Glass's Cookery Book, being first caught, was
dressed in the following fashion, as described by Captain Beechy,
in his second voyage : — " I happened to visit the mission about
this time and saw these unfortunate beings under tuition. They
were clothed in blankets, and arrayed in a row before a blind
Indian who understood their dialect, and was assisted by an
alcalde to keep order. Their tutor began by desiring them to
kneel, informing them that he was going to teach them the names
of the persons composing the Trinity, and that they were to
repeat in Spanish what he dictated. The neophytes being thus
arranged, the speaker began : — Santissima Trinidad, Bios,
Jesu Christo, Espiritu Santo — pausing between each name to
listen if the simple Indians, who had never spoken a Spanish
word before, pronounced it correctly, or any thing near the mark.
After they had repeated these names satisfactorily, their blind
tutor, after a pause, added, Santos — and recapitulated the names
of a great many saints, which finished the morning's tuition."
Tlio pay and inducement to the Indians to submit to what

TREATMENT OF THE NATIVES.

would doubtless appear even to them a farrago of nonsense, were
a daily allowance of Atole and Fozzoli, which were two kinds of
pottages, the first composed of barley flour and the second of the
same, varied by the addition of peas, beans and maize. The for-

Indians under instruction

mer was the usual breakftist and supper dish, the latter was
chiefly taken for dinner. Then huts, of which the Fathers kept
the keys, were provided for the nightly lodgings of the faithful ;
while a simple kind of clothing was furnished to them at intervals.
Soldiers took care meanwhile that order, decency and obedience
were strictly observed at work and play, at devotion and rest.
In return for these benefits, the Indians rose early, and attended
mass every morning, for an hour ; and during the day, in the
intervals between a second mass and meals and pretty constant
prayers, cultivated the gardens and fields of the missions, gath-
ered, preserved and arranged for sale the farm produce, herded
and attended to the wants of their cattle, built their houses, spun,

58 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

wove and cooked, aud in all respects drudged patiently, though
they do not appear to have taken tlie work very laboriously, as
the born slaves of the Fathers, whose absolute will was all tliat
they could comprehend or obey. With the instinct of a dog,
they fawned on and loved their owners, and perhaps would have
readily died to do them service. How different all this from the
free, intelligent and bold spirit of the present community ! To
shari)en the intellects of the converts, sticks, whips, long goads
aud the like were unhesitatingly employed by the beadles of the
churches, during mass and prayers, to silence the unruly and
make the refractory attentive and dutiful. Starvation and stripes
indeed attended the perverse Indian wherever he went ; and it
was his interest, — he could be made to understand that at all
events, — to comply with the wishes of his kind priestly persecu-
tors, as far as his animal nature would permit.

The conversion produced by such means could scarcely be
intellectual or very sincere. It seemed sufficient, however, that
the Indian duly attended mass (which he was obliged to do
under penalty of a sound, edifying whipping), knelt and mutter-
ed his incomprehensible Spanish words, made the sign of the
cross often and properly enough, and could correctly repeat to his
spiritual tutors, when called upon, the few cabalistic phrases
which they had taught him. Whether he understood the mean-
ing of these things was quite another question, as to which it was
not necessary for the Fathers to be impertinently curious. What
were these brown things, after all, but beasts — irrational beings,
who might have a soul truly to be saved, but whom it was absurd
to consider as having a mind ! Individually, the Fathers seem
to have been pious and philanthropic men ; but certainly humanity
and California owe them nothing. Every thing, even happiness,
is comparative ; and to the mind, undarkened by the gloomy
theology which considers the formal act of baptism without the
understanding soul to be sufficient for salvation, it must surely
be evident that the aboriginal savage, " lord of all he surveyed,"
was a more dignified and happy creature than the sleek, lazy,
stall-fed beast of burden into which the Fathers had entrapped,
or converted him.

In the churches, which were, of course, the leading and most

MEANS OF CONVERSION.

substantial buildings of the country, the walls were hung with
glaringly painted pictures — the more gaudy, the more valuable
and eflectual — of the saints, and especially of heaven and hell, to
astonish and fix the faith of the converts. La Perouse observes
that a horrible representation of hell in the church of San Carlos
has thus had a wonderful effect in promoting conversion ; while

tv^y^/v^i^ yi^c^.

Father Garzes and the Indians.

he considers that the picture of paradise in the same church, by
reason of its subdued coloring and treatment, had comparatively
little effect. In 1775, when Father Garzes was travelling, on a
crusading or proselyting expedition, from Sonora to California, he
carried with him a painted banner, on one side of which was
represented the Blessed Virgin Mary, and on the other the devil
in the flames of hell. On arriving at an Indian settlement, the
missionary took his first step of conversion. Just as the trav-
elhng mountebank blows his horn and flutters his flag on
approaching a village of likely gulls, so did our good Father

60 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO,

hoist his standard, and cry aloud ; when, as he naively observes,
the fascinated Indians, on seeing the Virgin, usually exclaimed,

good ! but when they observed the devil, they as often said, had !

Probably this was faith enough to entitle them to immediate
baptism, absolution and salvation. Food, lodging and raiment,
and freedom from the cares of family and the future, naturally

followed.

By such means the Fathers speedily converted the whole Indian
tribes within their reach ; while, year by year, as the missions,
and their servants and cattle increased in number, they took
possession of the most fertile and desirable lands in the country.
Much judgment and discretion were exhibited, as well in select-
ing the localities of the missions, as in subsequently managing
them for a time to the best possible advantage. The means
adopted for converting, training, and employing the natives,
were admirably devised, and were more successful and satisfactory
than could have been anticipated. The Fathers eagerly desired
to make Indian converts ; for every convert, besides becoming a
partaker of immortal glory, was a valuable slave ; but they
dreaded, and never invited the approach of free white settlers.

The first mission, San Diego, was founded in 1769 ; in 1776,
others had been established to the number of eight ; there were
eleven in 1790 ; and, in 1802, they had increased to eighteen.
In subsequent years, three more were added, viz., those of San
Francisco Solano, San Rafael and Santa Ines. In 1831, accord-
ing to the authority of Mr. Forbes in his excellent work, already
mentioned, on the " History of Lower and Upper California,"
the population of all classes for the whole latter country was
23,025 — the Indians constituting 18,683 of this number, and the
garrisons, missions and free settlements comprehending 4342.
That author supposes that as the population, for some years
afterwards, was nearly stationary, the same enumeration would
nearly hold good for 1835, when he wrote, although his state-
ments were not published till 1839. We extract a valuable table
from Mr. Forbes' volume, showing the localities peopled, with the
amounts of their population respectively : —

POPULATION OF THE COUNTKY.

NAMES OF THE JURISDICTIONS, MISSIONS AND
TOWNS.

Jurisdiction of San. Francisco.

Presidio of San Fbancisco

Town of San Jos^ de GujiJalupe. . .
Mission of San Francisco Solano

" of San Rafael

" of San Francisco.

" of Santa Clara

" of San Jose

" of Santa Cruz

Jurisdiction of Monterey.

Presidio of Monterey

Village of Branciforte

Mission of San Juan BiUitista

" of San Carlos

" of Na. Sa. de la Soledad. . .

" of San Antonio

" of Saa Miguel

" of San Luis Obispo

Jurisdiction of Santa Barhara

Presidio of Santa Barbara

Mission of La Purissima

" of Santa Ines

" of Santa Barbara

" of Buenaventura

" of San Fernando

Town of La Eeyua de los Angeles . . .

Jurisdiction of San, Diego.

Presidio of San Diego

Mission of San Gabriel

" of San Juan Capistrano

" of San Luis Key

" of San Diego

Totals...

PEOPLE OF ALL CLASSES AND AGES.

Men.

124
166
285
40fi
146
752
823
222

811

52
480
102
210
394
34it
211

167
151
142
374
883
249
552

295
574
4r,4
1138 J
750

10272

Women.

85
145
242
410

65
491
659

190

851

81
209
293
103

120
218
136
267
283
226
421

1911
520

7632

Boys.

89
103

88
105

68
100

110
27
85
34
23
51
46

162
47
82
51
66
177
213

683
162

2623

Girls.

78
110

90
106

60
145

97
17
71
21
20
17
61
7

164
84
96
70
59
181
202

621
143

2498

Total.

871
524

705
1027

237
1371
1727

366

708
130
987
236
334
671
748
329

613
450
456
762
791
838
1388

* 5686
1575

23025

From the pages also of Mr. Forbes, who seems to have made
minute researches on the subject, we extract the two following
tables, — the first of which shows the whole produce, in grain,
of the country, in 1831, calculated according to localities, and in
fanegas. The second table, calculated also by localities, gives the
total number of cattle, of all descriptions, in the same year. It
may be mentioned, however, that in addition to the number of
domestic cattle in the table, there were great numbers, particu-
larly mares, running wild ; and which were occasionally hunted

* " We are unable," says Mr. Forbe.^, " to give these latter details accu-
rately, the copy having accidentally caught fire when in the hands of the
printer."

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

and killed to prevent them eating the pasture of the tamer
species.

GRAIN.

NAMRS OF THE JURISDICTIONS. MISSIONS AND TOWNS.

C O

'^1

•a

III

go 5 —
«

1
1

■5

Jurlndktion of San Francisco.

283
]6r)7
1171

774

670
2400
4000

160

490
103
840
200
538
955
599
850

700
800
730
700
200
138

140
1400

450
1800
2946

1560

200

130

1000

300

332
160
170

115

300
100
400
90
200
250
1758

125

400

625

2000

420

40
191

15
9

25
123

131

80
40

40
9

90
20
20
50

160
40

179

5
13
30

200
80

241

388
340

1100
386

256

215

243

568

336

800

1200
1200

24
20
58
200
418
20

6
62
62
23
33

17
30
65

343

T<»\vn fit' Sinn .los*' tip (t11Mi1u1ui)6 ......■•• •

3408

\1 w^inn nt' S:iti Knillcist'O SoIiiliO. ..........

1660

" of Sail Kaf:iel

13-27

i* /\f' Siin Kr;iii('is('o ...••

10112

'* of Siiiitii ( 'lara

2685

6641

876

Jurisdiction of Monterey,

953

Villice of Braiici forte

343

1311

" of San ( 'arlos

477

" of Nil. Sa. de la Soledad

893

" of San Antonio

1701

" of Sun Miguel

734

" of San Luis Obispo

450

Jurisdiction of Santa Barbara.
Presidio of Santa Barbara

390

Mission of {..a I'urissinia

'■ of Santa Ines

893
1220

" of Santa Barbara

1236

" of Buenaventura

1860

'' of San Fernando

555

Town of La Kevna de los Angeles

2075

Jurisdiction of San Diego.
Presidio of San Dieg o

270

Mission of San Gabriel

1838

" of San .1 uan Capistrano

1110

" of San Luis Key

5215

" of San Diego

4646

Total fanegas

25144

10'J26

1644

7405

1083

46202

Taking the fanega at two and a half English bushels, the har-
vest in 1831 would be as follows : — Wheat, 7857^ quarters ;
maize, 3414^ quarters ; frijoles, 514 quarters ; barley, 2314
quarters ; beans, garvanzos and peas, 338 quarters ; total, 14,438
quarters. Reckoning the average price of grain in California at
the same period to be, wheat and barley two dollars the fanega,
or one pound five shillings the English quarter, and maize at one
and a half dollars, or one pound per quarter, the following will be
the value of the produce, viz. : wheat, $49,114 25, or £9,822 17s.
sterling ; maize, $21,340, or £4,268 ; barley, $11,570, or £2,314 ;

FARM PRODUCE AND DOMESTIC CATTLE.

peas and beans, reckoned as barley, $4,260, or £852 ; total,
$86,284 25, or £17,256 17s. The quantity of wheat produced
it will be perceived, is much greater than any of the other sorts
of grain, which is the reverse of what takes place in the Mexican
States, where the produce of wheat is small in proportion to
that of maize, the latter being the staple bread corn.

DOMESTIC CATTLE.

KAMES OF THE JTrEISDICTIONS, MISSIONS
AND TOWNS.

Black
CatUe.

Horws.

Mnles.

Asses.

Sheep.

6osU.

Swine.

Jurisdiction of San Francisco.

Presidio of Sax Francisco . . .
Town of Siin Jose de Guadalupe. .
Mission of San Francisco Solano.
" of San Rafael

5610

4443
2500
1200
4200
9000
12000
8500

5641
1000
7070
2050
65i>9
5000
3762
2000

7900
10500
7300
2600
4000
6000
3S624

608

20? 00

10900

26000

6220

470
2386

725

450
1239

780
1800

940

3310

1000

401

470

1070

1060

950

800

1300
1000
320
511
300
300
5208

625
1700

290
2100
1196

134

106

200

220
160
112
150
60
60
520

150
120
30
250
132

1
2

28
50

4
2
8

58
4
5
5

5000
2000
3000
7000
13000
5403

7017
4400
6358
10000
8999
1200

7000
2200
3300
3100
3000

13554

4800

25500

17624

55
15

87
SO

1200

325

50
17

" of San Francisco

" of -Santa ( 'lara

" of San Jos6

" of Sauta Cruz

Jurisdiction of Monterey.
Presidio of Monterey

Villacre of Brauciforte

Mission of Sau Juan Bautista

" of Siu Carlos

" of Na. Sa. de laSoledad..
" of San Antonio

" of San Mijruei

" of San Luis Obispo

Jurisdiction of Santa Barbara.

Presidio of Santa Barbara

Mission of La Purissima

" of Santa Ines

" of Santa Barbara

" of Buenaventura

" of San Fernando

Town of La Reyna de los Angeles

Jurisdiction of San Diego.

Presidio of San Diego

Mission of San Gabriel

250

" of San Juan Capistrano. .

" of San Luis Rev

" of San Diego...".

Total

216727

32201 1 2S44

177

153455 1873

839

The average prices of cattle, about the same period, were,
for a mule or saddle horse, ten dollars, or two pounds sterhng ;
a mare, cow or fat ox, five dollars, or one pound ; a sheep, two
dollars, or eight shillings.

In regard to the preceding tables, it may be remarked that,
in 1831, the missions had already lost much of their former
splendor and greatness. Ever since 1824, their progress had

54 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

been of a downward character. Most of them had so wilfully
mismanaged their estates, or so dissipated their means, or been
plundered of them by the Mexican authorities, that their wealth
in cattle, farm produce, &c., had dwindled down to less than one-
fourth, while the pecuniary affairs of many of their number
showed a still more ruinous appearance. We have given at length
the tables of Mr. Forbes, because he appears to have paid much
careful attention to the subject ; and we would now add some
statistics as to the riches of the missions, during the period of
their reputed greatest prosperity, extracted from the Rev. Walter
Colton's " Three Years in California" (New York, 1850), whose
statements, however, are somewhat more sweeping and less
detailed than those of Mr. Forbes.

The Mission of San Francisco Dolores, in 1825, is said to

have possessed 76,000 head of cattle, 950 tame horses, 2,000

breeding mares, 84 stud of choice breed, 820 mules, 79,000 sheep,

2,000 hogs, 456 yoke of working oxen, 18,000 bushels of wheat

and barley, $35,000 in merchandise, and $25,000 in specie : —

Santa Clara, in 1823, branded, as the increase of one year,

22,400 calves. It owned 74,280 head of full-grown cattle, 407

yoke of working oxen, 82,540 sheep, 1,890 trained horses, 4,235

mares, 725 mules, 1,000 hogs, and $120,000 in goods : — San

Jose, in 1825, had 3,000 Indians, 62,000 head of cattle, 840

tame horses, 1,500 mares, 420 mules, 310 yoke of oxen, and

62,000 sheep : — San Juan Bautista, in 1820, owned 43,870 head

of cattle, 1,360 tame horses, 4,870 mares, colts, and fillies. It

had also seven sheep farms, containing 69,530 sheep ; while the

Indians attached to the mission drove 321 yoke of working oxen.

Its storehouse contained $75,000 in goods, and $20,000 in

specie: — San Carlos, in 1825, branded 2,300 calves, and had

87,600 head of cattle, 1,800 horses and mares, 365 yoke of oxen,

nine sheep farms, with an average of about 600 sheep on each, a

large assortment of merchandise, and $40,000 in specie : — Santa

Cruz, so lately as 1830, had 42,800 head of cattle, 3,200 horses

and mares, 72,500 sheep, 200 mules, large herds of swine, and

$25,000 worth of silver plate : — Soledad, in 1826, owned about

36,000 head of cattle, and a greater number of horses and mares

than any other mission in the country. The increase of these

WEALTH OF THE MISSIONS.

animals was said to be so great, that they were given away to
preserve the pasturage for cattle and sheep. This mission had
about 70,000 sheep and 300 yoke of tame oxen : — San Antonio,
in 1822, owned 52,800 head of cattle, 1,800 tame horses, 3,000
mares, 500 yoke of working oxen, 600 mules, 48,000 sheep, and
1,000 swine : — San 3IigueI, in 1821, owned 91,000 head of cat-
tle. 1,100 tame horses, 3,000 mares, 2,000 mules, 170 yoke of

Mission of Santa Barbara.

working oxen, and 47,000 sheep : — San Luis Ohispo was reputed
to have been one of the richest of the missions. At one time, it
owned 87,000 head of grown cattle, 2,000 tame horses, 3,500
mares, 3,700 nmles, and eight sheep farms, averaging 9,000 shee]i
to each farm. When its presiding priest, Luis Martinez, returned
to Spain, he took with him $100,000 of mission property : —
La Purissima, so lately as 1830, had over 40,000 head of cattle,
300 yoke of working oxen, 2,600 tame horses, 4,000 mares.
30,000 sheep, and 5,000 swine : — Santa Liez, in 1820, possessed
property valued at $800,000 : — Santa Barbara, in 1828, had
40,000 head of cattle, 1,000 horses, 2,000 mares, 80 yoke of
oxen, 600 mules, and 20,000 sheep : — San Buenaventura, in
1825, owned 37,000 head of cattle, 600 riding horses, 1,300

GG ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

mares, 200 yoke of working oxen, 500 mules, 30,000 sheep, 200
goats, 2,000 swine, a thrifty orchard, two lich vineyards, $35,000
in ft)reign goods, $27,000 in specie, with church ornaments and
clothing valued at $61,000: — San Fernando, in 1826, owned
56,000 head of cattle, 1,500 horses ai ' mares, 200 mules, 400
yoke of working oxen, 64,000 sheep, and 2,000 swine. It had
also in its stores about $50,000 in merchandise, and $90,000 in
specie. Its vineyards yielded annually about 2,000 gallons of
brandy, and as many of wine : — San Gabriel, in 1829, had
70,000 head of cattle, 1,200 horses, 3,000 mares, 400 mules, 120
yoke of working oxen, and 54,000 sheep. It made annually from
four to six hundred barrels of wine, the sale of which produced
an income of upwards of $12,000 : — San Luis Bey, in 1826, had
70,000 head of cattle, 2,000 horses, 140 yoke of tame oxen, 300
mules, and 68,000 sheep : — San Juan Capistrano and San Diego
were reputed to be among the most opulent of the missions, and
their possessions were not inferior to those of the others named.

Let the reader contrast these statements with those of Mr.
Forbes, and consider what havoc must have been produced among
the missions in the short space of six or seven years. It was the
impending secularization, or, in other words, the confiscation of
their property, which seems to have produced this lamentable
state of afiairs, and made the Fathers quite careless in the man-
agement of their property. The large occasional grants, also, out
of which the laity either wheedled or bullied the Fathers, mightily
helped the disastrous result. The ravens had been long gather-
ing round the carcass of the still breathing creature. In its last
epasms, it recklessly threw aside all decorum, and thinking
nothing of the future only endeavored to share in and for the
moment enjoy its own spoils, along with the grasping and sacri-
legious Mexican officials and their Californian fiivorites. Soon
lauds and stocks were all swept from the reach of the Fathers, the
very Indian converts disappeared, and nothing was left but their
huge empty churches, stripped of most of their valuable and
gaudy ornaments, and fast crumbling into ruins. With the
general disappearance of the stock of domestic cattle, those lay-
men who had acquired grants to the different parts of the mission
possessions now turned their attention more to tillage.

CHAPTER V.

Pious Fund of California — General description of the Missions — Patriarchal kind of life of the
Fathers— Reflections on the subject— General description of the Presidios, Castillos, and their gar-
risons, and of the free Pueblos and Banchos.

The missions of Upper California were indebted for their begin-
ning and chief success to the subscriptions which, as in the
case of the missionary settlements of the lower province, were
largely bestowed by the pious to promote so grand a work as
turning a great country to the worship of the true God. Such
subscriptions continued for a long period, both in Old and New
Spain, and were regularly remitted to the City of Mexico, where
they were formed into what was called " TAe Pious Fund of Cali-
fornia." This fund was managed by the convent of San Fer-
nando and other trustees in Mexico, and the proceeds, together
with the annual salaries allowed by the Crown to the missionaries
were transmitted to California. Meanwhile, the Spanish Court
scarcely interfered with the temporal government of the country.
It was true that some of the ordinary civil offices and establish-
ments were kept up ; but this was only in name, and on too
small a scale to be of any practical importance. A commandante-
general was appointed by the Crown to command the garrisons
of the presidios, but as these were originally established solely to
protect the missions from the dreaded violence of hostile Indians,
and to lend them, when necessary, the carnal arm of offence, he
was not allowed to interfere in the temporal rule of the Fathers.
He resided at Monterey, and his annual salary was four thousand
dollars.

In every sense of the word, then, these monks were practically
the sovereign rulers of California — passing laws affecting not only
property, but even life and death — declaring peace and war

68 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

against their Indian neighbors— regulating, receiving, and spend-
ino- the finances at discretion — and, in addition, drawing large
annual subsidies not only from the pious among the faithful over
all Christendom, but even from the Spanish monarchy itself,
almost as a tribute to their being a superior state. This surely
was the ^olden age of the missions — a contented, peaceful, be-
lieving people, abundant wealth for all their wants, despotic will,
and no responsibility but to their own consciences and heaven !
Their horn was filled to overflowing ; but soon an invisible and
merciless hand seized it, and slowly and lingeringly, as if in ma-
licious sport, turned it over, and spilled the nectar of their life
upon the wastes of mankind, from whence it can never again be
collected. The golden age of another race has now dawned, and
with it the real prosperity of the country.

The missions were originally formed on the same general plan,
and they were planted at such distances from each other as to
allow abundant room for subsequent development. They were
either establislied on the sea-coast, or a few miles inland. Twenty
or thirty miles indeed seems all the distance the missionaries had
proceeded into the interior ; beyond which narrow belt the coun-
try was unexplored and unknown. Each mission had a consider-
able piece of the best land in the neighborhood set aside for its
agricultural and pastoral purposes, which was commonly about
fifteen miles square. But besides this selected territory, there
was generally much more vacant land lying between the bounda-
ries of the missions, and which, as the increase of their stocks
required more space for grazing, was gradually occupied by the
flocks and herds of the Fathers, nearest to whose mission lay the
previously unoccupied district. Over these bounds the Fathers
conducted all the operations of a gigantic farm. Their cattle
generally numbered from ten thousand to twenty thousand, and
their sheep were nearly as numerous — though some missions had
upwards of thrice these numbers — which fed over perhaps a hun-
dred thousand acres of fertile land.

Near the centre of such farms were placed the mission build-
ings. These consisted of the church — which was either built of
stone, if that material could be procured in the vicinity, or of
(w/otes, which are bricks dried in the sun, and was as substantial,

DESCRIPTION OF THE MISSIONS.

large, and richly decorated an erection as the means of the mission
would permit, or the skill and strength of their servants could
construct. In the interior, pictures and hangings decorated the

•^ ^'"'"''"'-^■"•l,'* vi^,'",^1w'

Mission of San Carlos.

walls ; while the altars were ornamented with marhle pillars of
various colors, and upon and near them stood various articles of
massy gold and silver plate. A profusion of gilding and tawdry
sparkling objects caught and pleased the eye of the simple con-
gregations. Around, or beside the church, and often in the form
of a square, were grouped the habitations of the Fathers and their
household servants, and the various granaries and workshoj^s of
the people ; while, at the distance of one or two hundred yards,
stood the huts of the Indians. The former buildings were con-
structed of adobes, and covered with brick tiles, frail and misera-
ble materials at the best. The huts of the Indians were occa-
sionally made of the same materials, but more commonly were
formed only of a few rough poles, stuck in the ground with the
points bending towards the centre like a cone, and were covered
with reeds and grass. An adobe wall of considerable height
sometimes inclosed the whole village. The direction of the
affaiis of the settlement was in the hands of one of the Fathers,

70 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

originally called a president, but afterwards a prefect ; and each
prelect was independent in his own mission, and practically
supreme in all its temporal, and nearly in all its spiritual mat-
ters, to any human authority.

Thus the Fathers might be considered to have lived something
in the style of the patriarchs of the days of Job and Abraham.
They indeed were generally ignorant and unlettered men, know-
ino- little more than the mechanical rites of their church, and
what else their manuals of devotion and the treasuries of the lives
of the saints taught them ; but they seem to have been person-
ally devout, self-denying, and beneficent in their own simple way.
They thought they did God service, and perhaps much more the
Indians themselves, in catching, taming, and converting them to
Christianity. That was their vocation in the world, and they
faithfully obeyed its calls of duty. If ever stern necessity, or
sometimes a forgetfulness of the value of life to the wild Indians
prompted them, or their military guards and executioners, to the
slaughter of a tribe, now and then, of the more fierce, thievish,
and untractable natives, they were scrupulously careful first of
all to baptize the doomed ; and, therefore, though the hapless
aborigines lost earthly life and the freedom of a savage state, their
souls were saved, and they entered into and enjoyed paradise for
ever. Towards the converts and actually domesticated servants,
they always showed such an affectionate kindness as a father
pays to the youngest and most helpless of his family. The herds
and flocks of the Fathers roamed undisturbed over numberless
hills and valleys. Their servants or slaves were true born chil-
dren of the house, who labored lightly and pleasantly, and had no
sense of freedom nor desire for change. A rude but bounteous
hospitality marked the master's reception of the solitary way-
farer, as he travelled from mission to mission, perhaps bearing
some scanty news from the outer world, all the more welcome
that the Fathers knew Uttle of the subject and could not be
affected by the events and dangers of distant societies. All
these things have now passed away. The churches have fiillen
into decay, deserted by the old worshippers, and poverty-stricken —
the adobe houses of the Fathers are in ruins — and there is scarcely
any trace left of the slightly erected huts of the Indians, who

PATRIARCHAL LIFE OF THE FATHERS. 71

themselves have deserted their old hearths and altars, and are
silently though rapidly disappearing from the land. But the
memory of the patriarchal times, for they were only as of yester-
day, still remains fresh in the minds of the early white settlers.

The quiet beauty and peacefulness of such a life make a de-
lii;htfiil subject of contemplation to the wearied spirits who labor
through the turmoils, anxieties, and vexations of the great world.
But the Indian neophytes had no such contrasts to show them
the inherent charm of their contented life. They grew and flour-
ished as the cabbage on the rich soil of their own land ; but they
also were as dull and earthly as the same cabbage. It may be
very true, the more knowledge, the more sorrow ; yet we cannot
avoid thinking that the more sources of intellectual enjoyment a
man has, the keener and more numerous also his moments of
pleasure. Even in many of the natural anxieties of civilized
society, there is a sense of power and heroic endurance which
softens the blow. The mere memory of past pains has almost
always something cheerful in it ; while the remembrance of intel-
lectual and refined enjoyments gilds the last and setting hour of
our existence. On the other hand, the hopes of the intelligent
being are infinitely more agreeable and ennobling than those of
the untutored, brutal savage. Therefore it may be concluded
that, apart from sickly sentimentalism and Rousseau-like theories,
the sooner the aborigines of California are altogether quietly
weeded away, the better for humanity. Yet the Fathers would
retain them : then sweep away the Fathers too.

Like the missions, the presidios were established on one general
plan. They were originally formed, as we have seen, to give
military protection and the aid of the carnal arm to the Fathers
in their conquest and civilization of the country, and in cap-
turing and taming the wild Indians. These presidios were four
in number, viz. : those of San Diego, Santa Barbara, Monterey,
and San Francisco. They were built in the form of a square of
about three hundred feet on each side, surrounded by a wall
twelve feet high, made of adobes, and most of them are now lit-
tle better than a confused heap of dried mud, rapidly crumbling
into dust. Within these bounds were included the commandante's
house, barracks for the troops, a church, store-houses, and various

72 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO,

other buildings. At some distance from the presidio was the
castiUo, or fort, which might be sufficient to overawe the simple
Indians, but was too defenceless a structure to prevent a superior
force of white men taking easy possession of it. A few guns of
small calibre were mounted on the ramparts, which, however,
seemed more for show than use, since they were never attended
to. Soon, therefore, from the ravages of time and the weather,
their carriages fell to pieces, and the guns themselves became
honey-combed by rust and rot.

The soldiers assigned to each presidio were cavahy, and seem
always to have been of the worst kind of troops. As soldiers,
they were of little account ; as men and settlers, absolutely
worthless. There were supposed to be two hundred and fifty
attached to each presidio, but their complement was never com-
plete, and generally they were ridiculously short of that number.
Undisciplined, wretchedly clothed, and irregularly paid, they
were indolent, riotous, and good for nothing but to hunt, and
shoot, or capture for new converts and servants, the wild Indians,
and to act as policemen over the converts already made. Yet
even in these capacities, they generally gave more trouble to the
meek Fathers to manage and keep in decent order, than the wild
or disobedient natives themselves. These were the soldiers of
California in the days of the Spanish monarchy, and they were
no better under the Mexican republic. They are represented to
have been commonly the refuse of the Mexican army, and were
generally either deserters, mutineers, or men guilty of military
offences, who were sent to California as to a place of penal ban-
ishment. To these presidios also the convicted felons of Mexico
were often transported. Such was a considerable portion of the
white population of California. We have already seen of what
nature the Indian inhabitants were.

Occasionally, the old soldiers of the presidios, upon their re-
tirement, after a certain number of years, from active service,
received grants of land from the Fathers, upon which they set-
tled, married, and left descendants. These formed the nuclei of
a few free towns (pueblos), which were not under the control of
the missions, but under the immediate government, first of the
Spanisli and afterwards of the Mexican authorities. As they

PRESIDIOS, CASTILLOS AND RANCHOS.

were established in the most fertile places of the country, they
began gradually to attract other white settlers to their neighbor-
hood, and soon exceeded in population and importance most of
the original mission villages themselves. These pueblos, however,
were only three in number, viz. : that of Nuestra Sehora de los
Angeles (the principal one, and indeed the chief town in Califor-
nia), and those of San Jose, near the mission of Santa Clara, and
Bnmciforfe, close to the mission of Santa Cruz.

Mission Rancho.

Besides the missions, presidios, castillos, and pueblos, it may
be remarked that there were certain public farms, called ranchos,
set apart for the use of the soldiers. They were generally four
or five leagues distant from the presidios, and were under the
control of the different commandantes Little use, however, seems
to have been made of these farms, and they commonly were left
in a state of nature, or afforded only grazing to the few cattle
and horses belonging to the presidios.

CHAPTER VL

Independence of Mexico in 1822, and gradual changes in the cbaracter and constitution of the Missions.

Manumission of the Indians in 1S26 ; but plan found unworkable, and return to the old state of

things. — Gradual disappearance of the Pious Fund. — Increasing riches of the Fathers. — Clianges
of 1833 and 1834 in the Missions, and attempts by the Mexican Congress to secularize their pro-
perty. — Santa Anna.— Attempted Centralization of the Me.xican Government. — Overthro'.v of the
old Federal Constitution in 1836.— Revolt and Declaration of Independence of the Californians.
— Continual sinking of the Fathers, and linal fall of the missions in 1S45. — Indian converts sent
adrift, and Mission property sold or rented. — Cost of the support of the Missions to the Spanish
and Mexican Governments.

The state of things described under the missions continued
without alteration until the overthrow of the Spanish power in
Mexico in 1822, and the establishment of a republican constitu-
tion in 1824. At that time, as population formed the basis of
the Federal States, New California was only admitted into the
Union as a territory, it not having the necessary population to
constitute a State. Under this chain*, ler, it had a representa-
tive in the Mexican Congress, who sat in the assembly and shared
in debates, but who was not entitled to vote on any question.
The republic was represented in the territory, as the Spanish
monarchy had previously been, by a commandante-general, who
was nominal governor of the country. However, the practical
legislative powers and virtual government remained in the hands
of the missons as before. The commandante-general indeed had
a kind of advising or privy council given him by law, called a
deputation, and which was chosen by the people ; but their func-
tions, although appearing to take the form of a local and free
government, were very limited, and their meetings accordingly
seldom took place.

In 1826, the federal government first began to tamper with
the ancient state of affiiirs. In that year, the Mexican authori-
ties proclaimed the manumission of the Indians, and sent in-

MANAGEMENT OF THE FATHERS. 75

structions to California that all those should be liberated " who
had good characters, and were supposed able to maintain them-
selves from having been taught the art of agriculture or some
trade," Certain portions of land were allotted to them, and the
whole country was divided into parishes, under the superintend-
ence of curates. The old salary of the missionaries (four hundred
dollars ^jer annum) out of the national exchequer was also sus-
pended, as the country was expected to maintain its own local
establishments.

This plan, however, was quickly found to be unworkable.
The simple Indians were quite incapable of standing alone, and
rapidly gambled away, or otherwise squandered the little pro-
perty assigned to them. Beggary or plunder was only left them
to subsist upon. Such a state of things soon restored the
Fathers to their former position. The most respectable white
settlers entreated them to receive the beastly Indians back into
the old fold ; and this, in the following year, the Fathers did.
But they first took occasion to make the circumstances the
ground of petition and complaint to Congress, who subsequently,
and in consequence of their remonstrances, ordered not only the
old salaries to be continued, but the arrears then due to be paid
in full. Thus the reign of the Fathers was prolonged for a
few years.

Meanwhile, the old Pious Fund of California was become
only a name. After the separation of the Mexican provinces
from Spain, the ancient subscribers got lukewarm in their pay-
ments, and new ones were not easily to be had. In the dis-
turbed state of the country, and. in the change of ideas arising
from political circumstances, there were more tempting channels
for the application of loose money than in riveting the chains
of Christianity on poor heathens, or securing the Fathers in their
comfortable domicils. But, to compensate for the loss of these
subscriptions, the real and personal estate of the missions was
rapidly rising in value. Traders had come on the coast, who
purchased the hides and tallow of their cattle, and the produce
of their fields. The Fathers were becoming excellent men of
business, and began to drive a thriving trade. They were now
independent, in the fullest sense of the word ; so much so, that,

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

whcri-as formerly they were indebted to foreign contributions and
royal or republican assistance to support their missions, they now
not only could manage to subsist without these aids, but were
enabled, and in truth obliged, to support the Mexican forces and
civil establishments in their territory at a vast annual expense.

Portrait of one of the Fathers — Antonio Peyri (ageil 67 years), Missionary at San Luis Key, from

1T99 to 1S32.

Up to this time, and so late as 1833, the Mexican govern-
ment had not sought, or rather was unable, to interfere materi-
ally with the management of the Fathers. In that year indeed
a body of eleven Franciscan friars was ordered by Congress to be
sent to the missions to strengthen their establishments. At this
time, General Don Jose Figueroa was appointed military gover-
nor, or commandante-general. Some time later, in the same year,
the democratic party being then in power, the Mexican Congress
passed a law for entirely removing the missionaries, and dividing
the lands among the Indians and settlers, and appropriating the

REVOLT OF THE CALIFORNIAXS, 77

funds of the Fathers in Mexico to state purposes. Commissioners
were appointed to see this act carried into effect, and free emi-
grants were engaged to proceed from Mexico to settle in the
country. This was the most serious blow the missions had ever
received, and would have been a deadly one, but for one of those
revolutions or party triumphs which so frequently occur in
Mexico. Santa Anna, who was opposed to the democratic party,
happened to come into power before the provisions of the act
could be carried into execution. lie immediately overturned all
that had been arranged on the subject, and forwarded, by ex-
press, counteracting instructions to California. When subse-
quently the emigrants from Mexico arrived in the country, Gene-
ral Figueroa received them so coldly, and gave them so little
encouragement, that soon the greater number of them returned
to Mexico. The missions therefore continued as before ; and so
ended this attempt on the part of the Mexican Government to
secularize the property of the Fathers, and augment the popula-
tion and resources of the country.

In 1835, the party at whose head was Santa Anna deter-
mined to remodel the Mexican republic, and centralize the gov-
ernment, thereby destroying, in a great measure, the federal con-
stitution of 1824. But no time was allowed him to make the
necessary changes and their exact nature therefore was never
known ; for, in the f<)llo\ving year, 1836, by one of the usual
coups d'etat, and while he himself had been defeated and taken
prisoner by the Texans, another party opposed to his general
views of policy came into power. This party, however, agreed
with the previous administi-ation on the necessity or propriety
of remodelling the federal system. The old constitution was
therefore abolished, and a new one adopted. By this change,
the separate states were deprived of many of their furmer pre-
rogatives, and nearly the whole rights and duties of government
were confined to the general Congress and executive. This
sweeping alteration of the federal constitution was opposed in
many parts of the republic, and in no quarter more vigorously
than in California. The people of Monterey rose en masse, and
at once declared themselves independent until the federal con-
stitution was re-adopted, and passed formal resolutions to that

78 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

effect. Their example was quickly followed by the inhabitants
of the other towns and villages. But while the people of the
southern parts of the country were inclined to adhere to Mexico,
upon certain conditions, those of the nothern districts were
determined hencef)rward, and for ever, to sever the connection
with the other States, and to stand alone, free and independent
of Mexican domination.

Mexico, meanwhile, was not exactly idle, for it answered the
Californian proclamations, addresses, and long inflammatory
speeches, by epistles and speeches of a similar nature on the
opposite side. California and Mexico — the local and general
governments — each party appealed to the patriotism of the
people in support of their cause. Seilor Don Mariano Guada-
lupe Vallejo, whose name will again occur in our pages, was ap-
pointed commandante-general on the part of the Californians, and
forthwith the whole train of congressional officials was forcibly
expelled from office and the government troops disbanded, and
before long transported to the Mexican territories. The Mexicans
threatened an expedition to chastise the rebels, and recall them
to repentance and duty ; while the Californians defied their
menaces, and resolved to abide the consequences of their first
steps to freedom. However, General Urrea, who had been
charged by the Mexican Government with the conduct of this
expedition, soon afterwards joined the federalist party, and wil-
fully delayed the execution of his orders. At the same time, as
the rebels were so far away, and the opposite factions in Mexico
had so many more pressing matters to settle among themselves
at home, somehow all about California appeared to be forgotten,
and it was left, for a time, to any constitution, or none at all,
and anarchy, just as its people pleased. About the end of July,
1837, the excitement among the Californians had subsided so
far, that they then quietly accepted the new Mexican constitu-
tion without a murmur, and voluntarily swore allegiance to it.

It is probably unnecessary to dwell upon the successive and
rapid changes of administration in Mexico, each of them differ-
ing widely from each other in their general views of home and
foreign policy. In one thing indeed they pretty cordially agreed,
and tliat was the destruction of the missions as a ruling body in

FALL OF THE MISSIONS. 79

California, and the secularization of their property for state and
other purposes. Accordingly, administration after adroinistra-
tion adopted the extreme democratic views on this matter, and
soon the Fathers were legally, if not equitably, stripped of their
possessions, and of all their former dignity and influence.

Foreseeing and dreading the results of the long threatened
proceedings, the Fathers lost courage, and neglected the missions.
If they themselves were not to enjoy their great estates nobody
else should. Their cattle, therefore, were recklessly slaughtered,
their fields and crops were neglected, and their property was
granted aw^ay or sold for trifling sums. Long before their final
fall, most of the missions had become but a wreck of what they
had been but a few years before. Perhaps the period of their
greatest prosperity was immediately previous to 1824. when the
Mexican constitution was declared. After that time they all
gradually fell into decay. In successive years from the date
mentioned, and particularly from 1834 downwards, specially
marking the disastrous years 1840 and 1845, various acts were
passed in the Mexican Congress, which completely denuded the
Fathers of both jiow^er and property.

This, however, was a work of considerable time, and occasion-
ally, as rival administrations, differing in this matter a slight shade
from each other, came into office, a gleam of their setting and
cloud-shrouded sun would appear to cheer the hearts of the
Fathers. But that sun finally sunk in 1845, never again to rise
in California. In the year named, a considerable number of the
missions were sold by public auction. The Indian converts at-
tached to certain others, and who now were wandering idle and
wretched over the country, were ordered to return to and culti-
vate the portions of land, which had been assigned them by
government. If that return and cultivation were delayed more
than a month, then these portions of land and the missions to
which they were attached would also be sold ; and this was
subsequently done. The remaining missions were to be rented.
The price and rents of all these missions were then divided into
three parts : one was bestowed upon the missionaries themselves,
and another upon the converted Indians, for their respective
maintenance, while the last was converted into a new Pious

80 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

Fund of California, for the support and extension of education
and gcnenil charitable purposes.

Before closing this account of the former state of the missions,
we may mention what was the cost of the country to the Mexi-
can Government, independent of the salaries allowed to the
Fathers, which, however, seldom seem to have been paid. Take
the year 1831 : — In that year, the expense of the presidial com-
panies, according to the estimates, was $91,000. To this must
be added the pay of the commandante-general and sub-inspector,
the expense of maintaining auxiliary troops and convicts, and
various other charges, $40,000. Together, these sums make
$131,000. But, as the net amount of the public revenue,
which was principally derived from exorbitant and often prohibi-
tory tariff duties, which necessarily encouraged smuggling, was
only $32,000, a short-coming of $109,000 was left to be pro-
vided by the general government. Other years showed an equally
unprofitable state of public affairs. However, as the general govern-
ment wanted the means, and perhaps the credit, elsewhere, they
borrowed the deficiency from their nominal subjects, the wealthy
Fathers ; and, accordingly, we find that the Mexican Congress,
in 1831, owed the missions the large sum of $450,000. This
circumstance, it might be thought, should have held back the
destroying hand ; but perhaps it only nerved it to greater and
more speedy destruction. The ungrateful are always the most
cruel.

CHAPTER VII.

California distinct in physical character and national feeling from the other Mexican provinces. —
Beginning and progress of immigration into the country. — The Russians at Bodega Bay. — Later
great increase of foreign white settlers ; Americans largely preponderating. — Outrage committed
upon the settlers by Mexican authorities. — Commodore Jones takes possession of Monterey. —
Foreign settlers scatter themselves over the whole country, and silently, but rapidly, revolu-
tionize or Americanize it — Origin of the war of 1846 between the Mexican and American States.

New California has always been a distinct country from the
rest of the Mexican provinces, having nothing in common but
that its few early white settlers were descended from the same
race. Locally it was separated by vast deserts from the peopled
parts of the same empire — in its constitution and government it
was swi generis — in its productions, climate and general character
of country there was no resemblance to any other portion of
Mexico. In the very feelings of the inhabitants there was little
sympathy with those of the Mexicans. Mexico never could
become a naval power : its mineral, pastoral and agricultural
wealth were very great, but it wanted the ports and the facilities
for procuring ship-buLlding timber and other marine stores which
Cahfomia has within a comparatively small space of territory.
California possesses an equable, mild and healthy climate —
excellent harbors — (one of which is equal, in capacity, safety,
and ease of entrance and departure to any other on the globe) —
a soil extremely fertile, capable of producing every kind of grain
and vegetables, except a few tropical varieties — and extensive
forests and other tracks of land which yield most kinds of marine
stores, such as timber, resin, &c. These things — if it only
had population, would necessarily, at all times, have rendered it
independent of Mexico, which is deficient in many of them.
Accordingly, the free white settlers early began to show that
they cared little about the Mexican Grovernment, and that,
6

S2 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

sooner or later, they were determined to be independent. This
consideration was always jiresent in the minds of the Mexican
people, and a secret jealousy of the consequences generally pre-
vented them from heartily encouraging the immigration into
California of new white settlers.

We have seen that so early as 1836, and when the gente de
razon did not exceed, if they amounted to five thousand, the
people of Monterey declared themselves independent of Mexico,
and that their examijle was followed by the other inhabitants of
the country. This desire for independence was soon much in-
creased by the continual inroad of immigrants which now began
to come from the United States of America, and from many of
the islands and ports of the Pacific.

In 1812, the Russians, without asking leave of the Spanish

authorities, had formed a small settlement at Bodega Bay,

between fifty and sixty miles to the north of San Francisco.

Some years afterwards, they established another small station,

called Ross, about thirty miles farther north than Bodega.

These settlements were founded chiefly in order to supply the

Russian-American Fur Company with agricultural supplies, but

also as fishing stations for procuring the skins of seals and otters,

which animals abounded on the coast and on the adjacent rocky

islands. The Russians, however, were very jealously eyed by

the Spanish and Mexican authorities, and were compelled to

maintain strong forts and a large number of military to protect

their settlers. In 1841, therefore, they judged it expedient to

relinquish their possessions. They accordingly disposed of their

stations and property to Captain John A. Sutter, an adventurous

Swiss gentleman, whose name is closely connected with the later

history of California, and will again occur in our pages. The

Russians then altogether retired from the country.

But previous to 1826 there were comparatively few other
foreign settlers in California than the Russians. When, however,
in that year, the Columbia and North American Fur Companies
had united their interests, several hundred trappers and fur
traders were always wandering about the borders of the country,
and occasionally even penetrated as far as San Francisco Bay
and Monterey. Their visits were in general coldly received by

OUTKAGE UPON FOREIGN SETTLERS. 83

the Californians ; and much suspicion of their ulterior views
being raised in the Mexican Government, laws were occasionally
passed by Congress for the removal of all foreigners from Cali-
fornia. Notwithstanding, the flow of immigration gradually
increased, and trappers, fur traders, whalers, and adventurers of
all nations, but particularly from the American States, began
to throng the harbors, and to settle down in the more fertile
parts of the country. Soon the majority of merchants in the
ports were of American, or else of English or French extraction ;
while many of the land squatters, and the shop and tavern-
keepers and artisans in towns were adventurous immigrants from
every country on earth. They had perhaps roamed over the wide
Pacific for years, and now, tired of their vagabond career, had
chosen California as a pleasant resting place, and a home for the
remainder of life. Eunaway seamen and stragglers from Colum-
bia and Missouri swelled the number of white settlers. The
indolent Spaniards stupidly looked on, while the prestige of their
name, their wealth and influence were quietly passing into other
and stronger hands.

Occasionally indeed they seemed to make a desperate strug-
gle against their fate ; but it was like the useless splash of the
unwieldy whale when the harpoon has struck his vital parts.
In 1840, a violent outrage was committed, under the instructions
of Don Juan B. Alvarado, then governor of the Californias, upon
many of the most respectable settlers of foreign extraction. In
April of that year, nearly one hundred individuals, American
and British subjects, of every rank and profession in life, were
seized, and carried to Monterey, where they were imprisoned,
some of them in irons, for a short time. No charge was made
against these people, yet they were treated as vilely as if they
had been condemned felons. A few were released, without
explanation, at Monterey, and the remainder carried as prisoners
to Santa Barbara. There a few more were released, again without
explanation, while the rest proceeded, still prisoners, to San Bias.
There several others were discharged, and left to find their
way back to Monterey, without money, passports or any assist-
ance whatever. Those who were still left were imprisoned for
an indefinite time at San Bias, or sent to other Mexican towns.

84 ' ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

A consideraLle number died from the severe treatment they
experienced ; while it was fifteen months before the last of them
was set at liberty. And still no reason was alleged for this
worse than Turkish or Russian despotism. Nor has it ever been
fairly known why such outrageous proceedings had been adopted
by the Mexican authorities, although it was suspected that they
considered the foreign settlers in California were engaged in some
revolutionary movement. This, however, was a most unlikely
thinij. The prisoners in conversation all denied, while the
Mexicans ridiculously failed, or perhaps never seriously attempted
to establish it. Probably a better reason might be found in the
fact that the Mexicans had got so fretfully jealous and alarmed
at the progress of foreign immigration, that they were determined
to disgust the present settlers with the country, and to frighten
all others from entering into it. Besides the people mentioned,
there were many other foreign settlers of large property who
were arrested, though Governor Alvarado thought it prudent not
to imprison them. No redress seems ever to have been obtained
from the Mexican Government for this daring attack on the
liberty of American subjects, and for all the losses, pecuniary
and otherwise, sustained by the victims of these violent, arbi-
trary and unlawful proceedings. At that period, there was no
regular United States ship-of-war stationed on the coast, nor
;iny consul appointed, to whom the injured could appeal, and
who, in his official capacity, could have enforced some compensa-
tion for such manifold wrongs. As it was, indeed, Mr. Thomas
0. Larkin, afterwards our respected consul at Monterey, in his
jirivate character as a merchant of the place and an American
subject, exerted himself strenuously to preserve the honor of the
United States flag and the lives and properties of his fellow
subjects ; but without eflFect. Several commanding officers of
United States ships in the Pacific hkewise interested themselves
in the matter, when they happened to approach the coast ; but
as they were but transient visitors, having no proper commission
eftcctually to interfere, the few steps they took led to no settle-
ment of the business.

In 1842, a premature attempt was made by an American
••fficer forcibly to take possession of the country. In that year,

COMMODORE JONES AT MONTEREY.

Commodore Jones, then in the Pacific, having fancied that the
Mexican and American States were at war on the Atlantic side
of the continent, sailed with liis frigate, the United States, and
the sloop-of-war Cyane, to Monterey, where he arrived on the
19th of October. He immediately took possession of the town
and hoisted the American flag, publishing proclamations over

Sutter's Fort, — New Helvetia.

the whole country, declaring it a portion of the United States.
After only twenty-four hours possession, the commodore received
intelli2;ence which altered his views of matters. He therefore
revoked all his recent orders, hauled down the " stripes and stars,'*"
and restored the place to its former owners, with as handsome
an apology as he could make for his extraordinary proceedings.

So early as 1837, several societies were formed in the Ameri-
can States to promote emigration to Oregon and California,
In the following years, and particularly in 1843, 1844, 1845 and
1846, many thousand emigrants journeyed across the Rocky and

86 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

8uo\vy ]\Iouiitains, enduring much suffering by the way, to
settle in California and the adjacent territory of Oregon. Other
large numbers proceeded thither through Mexico, across the
Isthmus, or by way of Cape Horn. The Valley of the Sacra-
mento, where Captain Sutter, already mentioned, possessed,
under a grant from the Mexican government, an extensive tract
uf country, called by him New Helvetia, was the general resort
of the larger number of those immigrants whose wishes were
directed towards an agricultural life. Many, however, distributed
themselves over other parts of the country, and those whose
views were turned more to trade and commerce flocked to the
towns on the coast, where they soon became the most influential
l)art of the community, and in some instances formed even the
numerical strength of the white population.

Meanwhile the Mexican Congress, alarmed at an immigra-
tion so steadily increasing and so powerful, fulminated proclama-
tion after proclamation against the intruders, and instructed the
governor of the province to take steps for their immediate expul-
sion. Such a measure, however, was now too bold an undertak-
ing for the whole Mexican power to execute. There the stubborn
settlers were, and would remain ; the squatter on his land, th(^
merchant in his office, the artisan, shopkeeper and trader at the
posts they had severally selected. Accordingly, the commandante-
general of California contented himself merely with publishing,
in ' their order, the impotent ordinances of Congress as they
leached himself, without daring or taking the least trouble to
enforce them. It was felt by all parties that a silent revolution
was rapidly going on, the effect of which was thoroughly to
Americanize the whole province. It was barely possible that
England might have delayed this movement somewhat, if she
had received, as was at one time seriously proposed by many
influential personages, .the territory of California from the Mexi-
can Congress, in lieu of the large public debt which her subjects
held against the insolvent republic. But even such a political
cession of the country to England would scarcely have stopped
the onward progress of American settlements, or removed the
profound feeling that California was destined, one day very soon
.low, to pass under the protection of the " star-spangled banner."

WAR BETWEEN MEXICO AND THE UNITED STATES. 87

The pear was ripening, and, if not plucked a little earlier by
impatient bands, would certainly soon fall at tbe feet of tbe
watcber. Matters were in this condition, when the war of 1846
broke out between tbe United States of America and the Mexi-
can States, which brought matters to a crisis, and finally settled
tbe destiny of California. The origin of tbe war was shortly
this : —

In 1835, Texas, hke California and many other provinces of
the Mexican republic, dissatisfied with the overthrow of the
federal constitution, revolted and* declared itself independent.
War was accordingly proclaimed by the general government, and
an army, under the command of Santa Anna, was forthwith sent
to the rebelHous province to compel obedience. But the Texans,
who were now chiefly of American descent, and who had no
sympathies with the Mexicans, having flown to arms, defeated
and captured Santa Anna himself, on the 21st April, 1836. In
the power of the enemy, and fearing the machinations of poHti-
cal foes in the capital, Santa Anna was glad to sign a treaty
with the Texans, in which he acknowledged the independence of
the province. Meanwhile, another party had come into power in
Mexico who refused to confinn the proceedings of Santa Anna,
and still claimed Texas as an integral part of the repubhc. Tbe
disordered state, however, of the general country prevented
active measures being taken to estabhsh this claim ; and Texas
governed itself, and was acknowledged as an independent power,
by several Em-opean and other nations.

In the interval, tbe Texans applied to the American Congress
for permission to be received into the Union. This, for various
reasons, was refused on the part of Congress ; and similar
applications made during the next eight or nine years were like-
wise decHned. At last, in 1845, the American Congress saw
reason to change its opinion, and on the 1st of March of that
year, passed resolutions sanctioning tbe annexation of Texas, upon
certain prehminary conditions, with which, as it happened, Texas
was ultimately found ready to comply. Five days after the pass-
ing of these resolutions, the Mexican ambassador, at Washington,
protested against them, and demanded bis passports. Generally
such a course is only adopted where there is good reason to sup-

gg ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

pose that war is shortly about to follow. In the present instance,
war was not immediately declared, nor did any hostilities take
place. However, the Mexican people were much embittered
against the American States when they reflected on the course of
these events, and every where a popular feeling was produced
inimical to America, and which insisted on immediate war.

To complicate matters, the Mexican Government had acknow-
ledged itself indebted to American subjects in a large sum, (some
millions of dollars), which it never could or would pay ; and the
mere consideration and fixing' the amount of which had occupied
some tedious years. This sum was the amount of damage
(assessed under the formal arbitration of mutual commissioners),
done to Americans, by reason of various seizures of and outrages
upon their ships and goods, which the Mexicans had made
iluring many previous years, partly, perhaps, through malicious
wantonness, and partly to replenish their impoverished exchequer.
Successive weak and poor governments among the Mexicans pre-
tended to acknowledge the justice of this debt, and faithfully
promised payment, though always at some future day ; until the
injured Americans got tired of remonstrating on the subject, and
indignantly clamored for warhke measures being adopted against
Mexico, to compel redress of their own and the national griev-
ances. Thus the popular mind in both countries was ripe for
war ; while both governments secretly began preparations to carry
it to extremities. The Mexicans made great levies and collected
numerous forces around their capital and on the Texan border.
On the other hand, the American Congress dispatched a consid-
erable fleet to the gulf of Mexico to be at hand when wanted, and
likewise ordered large forces to be assembled and to quarter them-
selves on the Rio Nueces in Texas. That river was held by the
Mexicans to be the south-westeru boundary of the province,
while the Texans themselves, and the United States taking up
their cause, claimed the Rio Grande, some one hundred and
thirty miles farther to the south-west, as the true and proper
limits of their territory. Thus the murderous train was laid
which a spark was to fire.

It is not our province further to develope the causes of the
war which ultimately broke out between the contending powers.

WAR BETWEEN MEXICO AND THE UNITED STATES. 89

Suffice it to say, that, in April, 1846, war was formally declared
between the two countries ; and that, after a brilliant series of
battles and victories upon the Tvio Grande, under Genera] Zachary
Taylor, and a still more triumphant progress, bloody but decisive,
from Vera Cruz to Mexico, under General Winfield Scott, the
modern Cortez, the Americans were enabled, in the capital itself,
to dictate their own terms of peace to the Mexicans — one of
which was the cession of Upper California by the latter. Previ-
ous to this time, however, American subjects had conquered and
held in possession the last named country itself ; and to a short
summary of their proceedings in that quarter we will now direct
the reader.

CHAPTER VIII.

CoL John C. Fremont— General Jos6 Castro.— Fremout declares war against California.— Capture of
Sonoma,— Proclamation of William B. Ide.— Letter of Pio Pico, Governor of tbe Californias, to
Thomas O. Larkin, Consul of the United States.— Thomas O. Larkin's reply to Pio Pico.— Cali-
fornia declared independent— California desired by the American Government — Col. Stevenson's
ro^ment — Movements of General Kearney. — Seizure of Monterey. — Proclamation of Com. Sloat-
Commander Montgomery takes possession of Yerba Buena and Fremont of San Juan.

Colonel John C. Fremont is generally considered the conqueror
of California ; where his exploits, undertaken with so small a force
and against such superior numbers, place him on a par with the
famous heroes of the days of chivalry. Yet to the bold, daring
and energetic measures adopted and prosecuted by Commodore
Robert F. Stockton, as we shall hereafter see, may justly be ascrib-
ed the final reduction of the country. Holding a commission in
the topographical corps of engineers, a great part of Fremont's
duties had hitherto consisted in exploring the districts of country
around the base of the Rocky Mountains, and the best lines of
communication from the Missouri to Ores^on and California. In
1845, Fremont was instructed by the War Department to ascer-
tain a shorter and more southerly and convenient route to the
Columbia River. In the execution of this duty, he reached Mon-
terey in California, in the month of January, 1846. Allusion
has already been made to the jealousy with which the successive
immigration of American settlers was viewed by the Cahfornians,
or rather the Mexican authorities. Accordingly, when Fremont
appeared with his small force near Monterey, General Jose Castro,
the commandant at that town, had his suspicions aroused as to
their ulterior intentions, and prepared to dispute their farther pro-
gi-ess. To aUay these suspicions, Fremont, leaving his little army,
hastened to Monterey and made such personal explanations to
Castro as seemed to satisfy the latter that he had no reason to
be alarmed at the appearance of the Americans. Castro having

COL. FREMONT AND GEN. CASTRO.

Coiiilit;! J. C. }■ iviniilic.

confessed himself satisfied ou the subject, Fremont retm-ned to his
people ; but, shortly afterwards being informed by the American
consul at Monterey that the Mexican general secretly intended to
attack him, he at once occupied a strong position in the neighbor-
hood, and displayed the American flag. Castro meanwhile having
thought better on the subject, especially after reconnoitering the
American position, determined to leave those foolish, obstinate
people alone.

Fremont, thus freed from molestation, proceeded on his pro-
posed route to Oregon. He had gone but a little way when he
found that hostUe Indians (supposed to have been urged on by

f)2 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

the Mexican authorities), baneil his forther progress ; and learned
with extreme surprise and indignation, that Castro intended to
attack the American settlers, and expel them from the country.
Upon ascertaining this foct, Fremont took the bold resolution of
declaring war against California, and of carrying it too into the
very camp of the enemy. His force, at this time consisted of
only sixty-two men. On the 15th of June, in pursuance of this
determination, he, or others acting under his advice, surprised
and took possession of the military post of Sonoma, part of the
spoils of which place were nine cannon and two hundred and fifty
stand of arms. Four days previously they had also cut off an
important convoy from Castro's camp. It is true that various
contradictory accounts have been given of Fremont's personal
connection with these events ; and it is difficult to ascertain the
real state of the facts. If he had no active share in them, which
is probably the true state of the case, it is certain that he formed
the resolution mentioned above, just when the noted " bear-flag"
party had actually surprised Sonoma, and that he immediately
cordially joined them.

After the capture of Sonoma, Mr. William B. Ide, a native
of one of the New England States, who had immigrated to Cali-
fornia the previous year, and a man of courage and intelligence,
was intrusted with the command of the small garrison. At the
same time he issued a proclamation explaining the views of the
American party, the reasons for their present act, and the prin-
ciple on which they proposed to conduct their future proceedings.
This proclamation is as follows : —

^^ A proclamation to all persons and citizens of the District of Sonoma, re-
questing them to remain at peace, and follow their rightful occupations
without fear of molestation.

" The Commander-in-chief of the troops assembled at the fortress of So-
noma, gives his inviolable pledge to all persons in California, not found under
arms, that they shall not be disturbed in their persons, their property, or social
relations, one with another, by men under his command.

" He also solemnly declares his object to be : first, to defend himself and
companions in arms, who were invited to this country by a promise of lands
on which to settle themselves and families ; who were also promised a Repub-
lican Government ; when having arrived in California they were denied the
privilege of buying or renting lands of their friends; who, instead of being

LETTER OF PIO PICO TO T. O. LARKIN. 93

allowed to participate in or being protected by a Republican Government, were
oppressed by a military despotism ; who were even threatened by proclama-
tion, by the chief officers of the aforesaid despotism, with extermination, if
they should not depart out of the country, leaving all their property, arms,
and beasts of burden ; and thus deprived of their means of flight or defence,
were to be driven through deserts inhabited by hostile Indians to certain
destruction.

" To overthrow a government which has seized upon the property of the
missions for its individual aggrandizement ; which has ruined and shamefully
oppressed the laboring people of California, by enormous exactions on
goods imported into the country, is the determined purpose of the brave men
who are associated under my command.

"I also solemnly declare my object, in the second place, to be to invite all
peaceable and good citizens of California, who are friendly to the maintenance
of good order and equal rights, and I do hereby invite them to repair to my
camp at Sonoma, without delay, to assist us in establishing and perpetuating
a Republican Government, which shall secure to all civil and religious hberty ;
which shall encourage virtue and literature ; which shall leave unshackled by
fetters, agriculture, commerce, and manufactures.

" I further declare, that I rely upon the rectitude of our intentions, the
favor of heaven, and the bravery of those who are bound and associated with
me, by the principles of self-preservation, by the love of truth, and the hatred
of tyranny, for my hopes of success.

'• I furthermore declare, that I believe that a government to be prosperous

and happy, must originate with the people, who are friendly to its existence ;

that the citizens are its guardians, the officers its servants, its glory its reward.

"William B. Ide.
'^ffead Quarters, Sonoma, June 18th, 1846."

These sudden, bold, and unexpected proceedings produced
much alarm and excitement among the Mexican authorities, as
we may learn from the following copy of the translation of a long
epistle — too interesting to be omitted, and now pubhshed for the
first time — addressed by his Excellency, Don Pio Pico, the gov-
ernor of California, to Thomas 0. Larkin, Esq., the United States
consul at Monterey : —

"The undersigned. Constitutional Governor of the Department of the Cal-
ifornias, has the deep mortification to make known to Mr. Thomas 0, Larkin,
Consul of the United States of North America, that he has been greatly sur-
prised in being notified by official communications of the General Com-
mandancia of this Department and the Prefecture of the Second District, that
a multitude of foreigners of the United States of America have invaded that
frontier, taken possession of the fortified town of Sonoma, treacherously
making prisoners of the military Commandante, Don Mariano G. Vallejo,

94 ANNALS OF SAN FEANCISCO.

Lieut. Colonel Victor Pruden. Captain Salvador Vallejo, and Mr. Jacob P.
Leese, and likewise have stolen the property of these individuals.

" The undersigned can do no less than make known to the Consul of the
United States, that acts so extraordinary and alarming have caused very great
PTicf.

'• Until the present the Departmental Governor is wanting the least positive
information that would give him to understand of a declaration of wai-
between Mexico and the United States, and without such information he
judges the course pursued at Sonoma the most atrocious and infamous that
can be imagined, so much so that the like is not seen among barbarians,

'' They have attacked the rights of the people, breaking the established
social compacts ; profaning the sacred soil of another nation ; indeed scan-
dalously usurping an integral part of the Mexican Republic, and what is more
provoking still, as an ignominious hbel, is the folly of the principal of this
multitude of foreigners, William B. Ide, the separation of the Mexican Union.
This act tends to excite the mind of the undersigned, and causes him to sus-
pect that the Government of the United States are concerned in this matter,
which certainly should increase his regrets.

!Mr. Thomas 0. Larkin will permit the undersigned to say to him frankly,
that he has witnessed with extraordinary coolness the invasion of the Depart-
ment, and that he has failed to note the general movement of all the inhabi-
tants, in defence of their country and liberty ; he has not been known to
make any arrangement that might make the invaders recede from their
abominable designs, and prevent the misfortunes which they can cause by
means of hostile provocation : misfortunes that the Departmental Govern-
ment will place to the responsibility of the chief authors before God and the
entire world. So base management as observed on this occasion highly com-
promises the honor of the United States, and if it shall have such a stain
upon itself, there is no doubt that it will be graven eternally in the remem-
brance of all nations, and will cause it to be despised.

" The undersigned believes that the Consul of the United States will agree
with him, that the acts committed by the party of foreigners, Americans,
have the appearance of actual and downright robbery; also that the Consul
will agree with him, that his indifference to prevent such fatal results, seeing
that they were subjects of his own nation who were violating this part of
the Mexican Republic, compromises more and more both nations.

" The undersigned in fulfilment of his duties sees himself obliged to recom-
mend to the Consul, Thomas 0. Larkin, that he make declarations of the
occurrence which has happened at Sonoma, to exact full satisfaction from him,
hoping that he will use all the means in his power to escape in time such
terrible consequences, and finally to protest solemnly, in the name of the
Departmental and Supreme Government of the Nation, that it is decidedly
opposed to all aggressions, defending to extremity its independence, liberty,
malienable rights ; repeating that the principal authors are responsible to the
Representative of the United States near this Department for those abuses
and results of corrupt designs from which they are not deterred.

LARKIN's reply to PIO PICO.

" The undersigned hopes, from the prudence and judgment of the Consul
of the United States at Monterey, that, admitting the justice that assists him
the answer to this letter (and imploring that it may soon come), may be in
accordance with (veneboles) desire.

" God and Liberty !

" Pio Pico.
Santa Barbara, 29th June, 1846."

Thomas O. Larkin, Esq.

To this indignant and piteous missive, Mr. Larkin returned
the following answer : —

" Consulate of the United States of America,
Monterey, Cal. July, 5th, 1846.

" To His Excellency, Don Pio Pico,

Governor of California.

"Sir : — The undersigned, Consul of the United States of America for
California, has the honor to acknowledge the reception of His Excellency's
Istter of the 29th of last month, which was received yesterday afternoon.

96 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO,

His Excellency may be well assured that the undersigned is duly sensible
of the preat inii)ortance of the subject brought before him, and is compelled
to say that he cannot alone enter into any mode for the expulsion of the
foreigners who have taken possession of Sonoma. He is bound not only to
protect his countrymen in California from any unjust oppression, and settle
in an amicable manner any disputes in which they may be concerned ; but
tirmly to refuse them support when they have been wilfully guilty of any
infractions of the laws of this Department, giving aid to the Authorities in
such cases, which aid has been refused by the Governor and Prefect.

The undersigned must assure His Excellency was wrongly informed when
told he made no exertions to aid the proper Authorities, and His Excellency
can learn that the undersigned has used the only means in his power as a
Consul, and that the Consular service had not been accepted.

His Excellency is pleased to say that the Americans engaged in this affair
are responsible to this Consulate. The undersigned must observe that he
knows not where this responsibility exists, and will not underrate the good
sense of his being in the idea that he believes Consular letters would have
effect on the persons in question, or that the Authorities would have given
him soldiers to bring into Monterey an equal number of Americans, when
General Castro, with three times their force, did not see proper to expel those
who took Sonoma.

The reasons brought forward by His Excellency as proofs that the Govern-
ment of the United States is concerned in this matter, not being sustained,
will, being by the undersigned proved to be erroneous, require no farther
assertion on his part to convince His Excellency on the subject.

The undersigned has the honor to renew to His Excellency the Governor
of California, assurance of his deepest respect and consideration.

Thomas 0. Larkin."

While these epistles were being interchanged, Fremont was
proceeding to the valley of the Sacramento, where the chief
settlements of the American population were, with the intention
of enhsting recruits for the farther prosecution of the war. A
garrison of only fourteen men had been left at Sonoma, which
was shortly afterwards increased to about forty. Scarcely had
Fremont departed, when General Castro prepared to attack the
feebly manned post. News of that general's movements speedily
followed Fremont, who instantly, with only a troop of ninety
riflemen, hurried, night and day, to the relief of the garrison.
He arrived just in time to frustrate the designs of Castro. To
follow up his original scheme, Fremont next called a meeting of
the Americans at Sonoma, on July 4th,1846 ; when, acting on his
advice, the assembly proclaimed the independence of the country,
:i[)pointed Fremont governor, and declared war against Mexico.

COLONEL Stevenson's regiment. 97

Meantime, nothing was known of the condition of affairs in
the United States, nor that actual hostihties had taken place
between them and Mexico. While this ignorance existed in
California, there was equal want of knowledge in the United
States respecting the proceedings on the opposite side of the
continent. Very comprehensive measures to conduct the war
on all sides had been formed by the American government.
Not only were American generals advancing on the Kio Grande
and on Mexico itself, by way of Vera Cruz and Jalapa, but an
expedition under General Stephen W. Kearny, was formed to
proceed across the whole continent, from the Missouri, first to
Santa Fe, and after the expected reduction of New Mexico, far-
ther west to California. This latter province had long been de-
sired by the Americans, and the government was now determined,
since circumstances rightfully permitted the attempt, to secure
the country. To further this undertaking, Congress ordered a
corps of mounted riflemen to be raised, the command of which
was given to Captain, then first created Lieutenant-Colonel,
Fremont, and who, from his knowledge of the country, and hi^
being there at the very time, seemed the most proper person on
whom the honor of the command could be bestowed,

A regiment of volunteers, a thousand strong, to serve during
the war in California, was likewise raised in New York, and
placed under the command of Colonel Jonathan D. Stevenson, to
whose energy and ability the formation and organization of the
corps was chiefly owing. This regiment, though it arrived in
California too late to take any part in the actual hostilities of
* the war, was subsequently of great service in - preserving the
peace of the subjugated country. Col. Stevenson reached San
Francisco March 7th, 1847, and immediately afterwards his
regiment was divided into com2)anies, which were severally sta-
tioned at Sonoma, San Francisco, Santa Barbara, and Monterey,
which last place, first was head-quarters, afterwards removed to
Los Angeles. . So desirous was the United States Government t^
preserve California at all hazards, that particular care had been
taken, in the raising of this regiment, that the men composing it
should be of good habits, and as far as practicable, of various

98 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

pursuits, antl sucli as would be likely to desire to remain in the
count ly at the end of the war.

While these measures were being carried out by Congress,
General Kearny, having left Fort Leavenworth, on the Missouri,
in June, 1846, was marching, at the head of sixteen hundred
men, across the deserts which lie between that place and Santa
Fe. After the capture of Santa Fe, and the proclamation of
New Mexico being now a ijortion of the American re})ublic, and
after making the necessary arrangements for strengthening his
power there, Kearny, at the close of September, 1846, proceeded
farther west to California, to carry out the instructions given
him by Congress. He had gone but eleven days' march from
Santa Fe, when he met an express from Commodore Stockton
and Colonel Fremont, bearing despatches to Congress announcing
the conquest of California. Kearny, then dismissing two hun-
dred of his dragoons, to assist in the reduction of New Mexico,
continued his progress westward, accompanied by a troop of only
one hundred men, and two howitzers. His course lay across the
wild and untrodden country east of the Gila, down which river
he next proceeded, until he approached the frontier of California.
Meanwhile, Americans there were completing what we have seen
they had begun, the reduction of that country.

At the time when Fremont was forcino; the Mexicans out of
California north of the Bay of San Francisco, Commodore Sloat,
who was then in command of the American squadron in the
Pacific, being apprised of the actual commencement of hostilities
between the American and Mexican states, had seized upon
Monterey. This was done on the 7th of July, when the Ameri-
can flag was hoisted, and the following proclamation read. It is
not our intention to give a detailed history of the war in Cali-
fornia ; but since this proclamation was the first formal announce-
ment of the intentions of the American Government, while the doc-
uments pre\dously quoted were very important in themselves, we
l^vo been induced to give them all at length, though they perhaps
swell this branch of our subject more than was at first contem-
plated.

"TO THE INHABITANTS OF CALIFORNIA.

' The central government of Mexico having commenced hostilities against
the United States of America, by invading its territory, and attacking the

PROCLAMATION OF COMMODORE SLOAT. 99

txoops of the United States stationed on the north side of the Rio Grande,
and with a force of seven thousand men under the command of General
Arista, which army was totally destroyed, and all their artillery, baggage, &c.,
captured on the 8th and 9th of ^lay last, by a force of two thousand and
three hundred men, under the command of General Taylor, and the City of
Matamoras taken and occupied by the forces of the United States, and the
two nations being actually at war by this transaction, I shall hoist the
standard of the United States at Monterey immediately, and shall carry it
throughout California.

" I declare to the inhabitants of California, that, although I come in arms
with a powerful force, I do not come among them as an enemy to California :
on the contrary, I come as their best friend, as henceforth California will be
a portion of the United States, and its peaceable inhabitants will enjoy the
same rights and principles they now enjoy, together with the privilege of
choosing their own magistrates, and other oflBcers for the administration of
justice among themselves, and the same protection will be extended to them
as to any other State in the Union. They will also enjoy a peilnanent govern-
ment, under which life, property and the constitutional right and lawful
security to worship the Creator in the way the most congenial to each other's
sense of duty, will be secured, which, unfortunately, the central government
of Mexico cannot afford them, destroyed as her resources are by internal fac-
tions and corrupt officers, who create constant revolutions to promote their
own interests and oppress the people. Under the flag of the United States,
California will be free from all such troubles and expenses ; consequently,
the country will rapidly advance and improve both in agriculture and com-
merce, as, of course, the revenue laws will be the same in California as in all
parts of the United States, afibrding them all manufactures and produce of
the United States, free of any duty, and all foreign goods at one quarter of
the duty they now pay. A great increase in the value of real estate and the
products of California may also be anticipated.

" With the great interest and kind feeling I know the government and
people of the United States possess towards the citizens of California, the
country cannot but improve more rapidly than any other on the continent of
America.

" Such of the inhabitants of California, whether native or foreigners, as may
not be disposed to accept the high privileges of citizenship, and to live
peaceably under the Government of the United States, will be allowed time to
dispose of their property and to remove out of the country, if they choose,
without any restriction ; or remain in it, observing strict neutrality.

" With full confidence in the honor and integrity of the inhabitants of the
country, I invite the judges, alcaldes, and other civil ofBcers to execute their
functions as heretofore, that the public tranquillity may not be disturbed ;
at least until the government of the territory can be more definitely arranged.

" All persons holding titles to real estate, or in quiet possession of land
under color of right, shall have those titles guaranteed to them.

" All churches and the property they contain in possession of the clergj-

100 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

of California, shall continue in the same rights and possessions they now

enjoy.

" All provisions and supplies of every kind furnished by the inhabitants
for the use of the United States ships and soldiers, will be paid for at fair
rates ; and no private property will be taken for public use without just com-
pensation at the moment.

"John D. Sloat,

" Commander-in-chief of the U. S. force in the Pacific Ocean.''^

A despatch was immediately forwarded by land to Com-
mander Montgomery, who lauded at Yerba Buena without oppo-
sition, took possession of the place, hoisted the American stand-
ard on the piibhc square, and posted the proclamation of his
commanding officer. Fremont, hearing of these proceedings,
took possession of the mission of San Juan.

CHAPTER IX.

Commodore Stockton takes charge of the American forces in California.— Hostility of the Californiana—
Proclamation of Com. Stockton. — Landing at San Pedro, and manceuvres of the sailor army.—
Castro's commissioners. — March on Los Angeles, and flight of General Castro. — Triumphant
entry into Los Angeles. — Provisional government formed. — The diflBculties of Stockton's march,
and the complete success of his plans. — Eeported hostility of the Walla-'Walla Indians. — Enthn-
Mastic reception of Stockton at San Francisco and other places. — Satisfaction of the people of
California with the new government — Stockton designs to cross Mexico and unite with the
forces of General Taylor.

Commodore Robert F. Stockton arrived at Monterey in the Fri-
gate Congress, on the 15th of July, 1846, and on the 23d of that
month assumed command of the squadron. Com. Sloat having
left on that day to return to the United States. The bold and
comprehensive mind of Stockton perceived at once the circum-
stances by which he was sm-rounded. He was deeply impressed
with the grave and important trust that devolved upon him.
But he was neither dismayed nor perplexed with the importance
of his position nor the difficulties he was compelled to confront.
With a decision of character, promptitude and sagacity worthy
of commendation, he adopted the plan of a campaign, which the
most complete success vindicated, and which, if judged by its
results, is unsurpassed in the most brilliant records of military
achievement.

For a correct appreciation of the motives which governed
Com. Stockton, as well as of the abihty with which his plans
were conceived and executed, we must briefly advert to the con-
dition of California at that time, and the circumstances that
influenced his course. The country was sjDarsely inhabited ; its
population chiefly clustering around isolated settlements at great
distances apart, or in the neighborhood of ranches, scattered with
wide intervals, over its vast surface. Large bodies of Indians
occupied much of the tenitory. To defend themselves from these

102 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

and the predatory incursions of more warlike tribes in the interior
of the continent, the Cahfornians were necessarily familiar with
arms. They were hardy and expert horsemen, and excelled in
all equestrian performances. Possessed of a fleet and admirable
race of horses, they had all the elements of the best cavalry
force, in which indeed consisted their chief military strength.
At this period the Cahfornians were greatly incensed against the
United States. They were ignorant of the declaration of war
with Mexico, and considered the demonstration of Freonont and
the immigrating parties reported to be approaching, as unpro-
voked aggressions. They were disposed to treat all Americans as
lawless adventurers or freebooters, whose designs were hostile to
the peace and authority of Mexico. The colonization of Califor-
nia by citizens of the United States for the purpose of ultimate
annexation (as in the case of Texas), they determined to defeat
by the most decisive measures. Accordingly, Andreas Pico issued
a proclamation intended to stimulate the most sanguinary treat-
ment of all Americans. The occupation of Monterey and some
other ports on the coast by Com, Sloat, was viewed by the Cali-
fornians as parts of the same aggressive scheme, indicated by the
elevation of the " Bear Flag " by Fremont, and the approaching
immigration. Com. Stockton, aware of these hostile feeUngs,
was painfully solicitous for the safety of the enterprising com-
panies of immigrants which he knew were crossing the Rocky
and Snowy Mountains. He concluded that unless a diversion
was produced of the Californian forces — unless they were kept
fully employed in their own defence, or absolutely dispersed, that
the fate of the immigrants would be inevitable. They would be
slaughtered in detail as they arrived, jaded, exhausted and en-
feebled by their long and arduous journey. Besides, it was quite
evident, that if left at Hberty to concentrate their troops, the
Cahfornians would overwhelm and repossess themselves of Mon-
terey and other ports, at which the flag of the United States had
already been elevated by Com. Sloat on the eve of his departure.
The Provincial Congress of California were in session at this
time, and under the influence of British agents, the most la\dsh
grants to them of vast tracts of territory were in progress of
consummation. There was reason to beheve, that in contempla-

PROCLAMATION OF COMMODORE STOCKTON, 103

tion of the ultimate cession of California to the United States,

the Provincial Congress intended to render the acquisition of the
territory as valueless as possible. Com, Stockton, aware of these
proceedings and designs, was determined to frustrate them. Ho
was well informed of the strength of the enemy, while, he was
aware, they were totally unacquainted with his available force.
He had really but three hundred and fifty men who could be
spared for active service on land, with which to oppose the Cali-
fornians, about fifteen hundred strong, and composed, for the
most part, of the finest cavalry in the world. But the commodore
knew that these people were not familiar with the enemy they
were to meet, and that to magnify the efficiency of his own
strength, it was only necessary to excite the fears of his adver-
sary. The boldest, most decided and adventurous measures, only,
could therefore be relied on for success. To disperse the military
organization of the enemy, crush all resistance, occupy the pro-
minent positions in the interior around which the population was
collected, and thus to acquire and hold possession of the country,
he foresaw would afford security to the aj)proaching immigration,
and baffle the cupidity of British agents and the crafty malevo-
lence of Mexican animosity ; while it would effectually facilitate,
at the close of the war, any negotiations for the cession of Cali-
fornia which our Government might institute. The quiet posses-
sion of the country, after its subjugation, would be likely to
render Mexico better disposed to relinquish the sovereignty which
her people were so incapable of defending. Thus informed, and
with these views. Com. Stockton, on the- 28th July, issued the
following proclamation : —

" On assuming the command of the forces of the United States, on the
coast of California, both by sea and land, I find myself in possession of the
ports of ISIonterey and San Francisco, with daily reports from the interior of
scenes of rapine, blood and murder. Three inoflfensive American residents of
the country, have within a few days been murdered in the most brutal man-
ner ; and there are no Californian oflBcers who will arrest and bring the mur-
derers to justice, although it is well known who they are and where they are,
I must therefore, and will, as soon as I can, adopt such measures as may seem
best calculated to bring these criminals to justice, and to bestow peace and
good order on the country.

In the first place, however, I am constrained by every principle of national

104 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

honor, as well as a due regard for the safety and best interests of the people
of California, to put an end, at once and by force, to the lawless depredations
daily commit tod by Cicneral Castro's men upon the persons and property of
peaceful and unollending inhabitants.

" I cannot therefore confine my operations to the quiet and undisturbed
possession of the defenceless ports of Monterey and San Francisco, whilst the
people elsewhere arc suffering from lawless violence ; but will immediately
march against tliese boasting and abusive chiefs, who have not only violated
every principle of national hospitality and good faith towards Captain Fremont
and his surveying party, (but who, unless driven out, will, with the aid of
the hostile Indians, keep this beautiful country in a constant state of revolution
and bloodshed,) as well as against all others who may be found in arms aiding
and abetting General Castro.

" The present general of the forces of California is an ursurper — has been
guilty of great offences — ^has impoverished and drained the country of almost
its last dollar, and has deserted his post now when most needed. He has
deluded and deceived the inhabitants of California, and they wish his expul-
sion from the country. He came into power by rebellion and force, and by
force he must be expelled. ]\Iexico appears to have been compelled, from time
to time, to abandon California to the mercies of any wicked man who could
muster one hundred men in arms. The distances from the Capital are so
great, that she cannot, even in times of great distress, send timely aid to
the inhabitants : and the lawless depredations upon their persons and property
go invariably unpunished. She cannot or will not punish or control the
chieftains who, one after the other, have defied her power and kept California
in a constant state of revolt and misery.

" The inhabitants are tired and disgusted with this constant succession of
military usurpers and this insecurity of life and property. They invoke my
protection. Therefore upon them I will not make war. I require, however,
all officers, civil and military, and all other persons to remain quiet at their
respective homes and stations, and to obey the orders they may receive from
me or by my authority, and if they do no injury or violence to my authority,
none will be done to them." "

In twenty-four hours after assuming the command, Commodore
Stockton organized a battalion of mounted riflemen, which had
previously been raised by Capt. Fremont, and Lieut. Gillespie of
the marine corps, and which consisted of about one hundred and
sixty men. These officers and their men volunteered to serve
under Stockton so long as he should require their services in Cali-
fornia. Fremont was appointed major, and Gillespie captain of
the battalion. On the evening of the 23d, it was embarked on
the sloop-of-war Cyane and despatched to San Diego, with orders
to co-operate with the commodore in his proposed movement on

STOCKTON AND THE COMMISSIONERS OF CASTRO. 105

Ciudad de los Angeles. On the 1st of August, Stockton sailed
in the Congress, and on the way to San Pedro, landed at Santa
Barbara, of which he took possession, and leaving a small detach-
ment for its defence, proceeded to his destination, where he arrived
on the 6th of August. Here he immediately learned, that the
enemy, headed by Generals Castro and Andreas Pico were strongly
posted near Los Angeles with a force estimated at fifteen hundred
strong. He was also informed that Major Fremont had safely
landed at San Diego, but found great difficulty in obtaining the
needful supply of horses. In the absence of Fremont's battalion,
Stockton was destitute of cavalry. Yet impressed with the im-
portance of celerity of movement, he determined not to delay on
that account striking a decisive blow as soon as possible. His
whole disposable force of sailors and marines was immediately
disembarked, a camp formed, and efforts made to discipline for
shore service his aquatic troops, to which novel duty they sub-
mitted with cheerfulness and alacrity. The anchorage at San
Pedro is insecure and unprotected, and it was apparent to aU that
when they left the coast there was no certainty of finding their
ships on their return. Rough weather would compel them to
put to sea, or seek a better harbor. Victory or death must, there-
fore, be the result of their enterprise. But confident in the
resources and gallantry of their leader, the hopelessness of retreat
only inspired the men with the prophetic certainty of success.
Six small guns, obtained from merchant vessels, constituted their
artillery. These were rudely mounted and dragged by hand.
The sailors were, of course, ignorant of the drill of soldiers, and
it was impracticable to subject them to the army discipline. Each
man was simply instructed to observe the movements of his right
hand comrade, and always to keep to his left. With this single
order they soon became expert in forming in line, square or column
as required. Though in forming they would appear in inextri-
cable confusion, yet in a few moments all was in order, and every
man in his proper place.

A few days after landing, a flag of truce was discovered ap-
proaching at a distance over the hills, borne by commissioners
from Castro. Acting upon his preconceived views of the enemy's
ignorance of his strength, Stockton at once determined to impress

lOG ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

Castro's messengers with most exaggerated ideas of the number
of his forces and their formidable equipment. His little army
was accordingly ordered to march directly on the line of vision of
the approaching commissioners, at intervals of twenty or thirty
paces apart, to a position where they were sheltered from obser-
vation. Thus seen at a distance, their numbers, judging from
the time occupied in defiling, would appear very considerable.
The commissioners, coming more as spies than negotiators, as was
subsequently ascertained, were completely deceived. On their
arrival, they were led up by order of the commodore, to the
mouth of a tremendous mortar, which, excepting its huge aperture,
was entirely enveloped in skins. Such an engine of war Stockton
knew had never before met their gaze, and could not fail to inspire
apprehensions of its unknown and terrific qualities. Thus posted
he received the emissaries in a stern and repulsive manner, and
in an imperious tone demanded the object of their visit. This
they delivered with so much confusion as to disclose the serious
impressions they felt. They were bearers of a letter from Castro,
proposing a truce, upon condition that all active operations should
cease, and each party hold its own possessions until a general
pacification. The commodore had fully considered the whole
matter, and believed that action, not negotiation, was his true
policy — that no terms would be kept by the enemy longer than
fear dictated — and that if time were allowed him to ascertain
the comparative strength of the opposing forces, the worst conse-
quences might be anticipated. He therefore contemptuously
rejected the proposition of Castro as insolent and insulting ; and
dismissed the couunissioners with instructions to assure their
master, that, unless he immediately broke up his command and
disbanded his troops, he would be most severely punished, and
that no other terms than an unconditional submission, should
shield him from the just vengeance of an incensed foe. The mes-
sengers hastened to place the mountains between them and the
commodore, and no doubt returned to Castro with an appalling
account of the numbers, strength and sanguinary spirit of the
great invading army, preparing for his utter destruction. The
subsequent conduct of Castro and his superior forces, shows well

FLIGHT OF GENERAL CASTRO. 107

the sagacity and wisdom with which Stockton had operated on
his imagination and fears.

Two days afterwards other messengers arrived from Castro,
bringing a bombastic letter, rejecting the terms of Stockton, and
concluding with the declaration, — " I will not withhold any
sacrifice to oppose your intentions : and if through misfortune
the flag of the United States waves in California, it will not be
by my acquiescence, nor by that of the last of my compatriots ! "
These commissioners were treated much the same as were their
predecessors — impressed with the formidable character of the
American force, and intimidated with the ferocity and implacable
purjiose of conquest which seemed to animate the invaders.

Having now comjjleted his arrangements, Stockton resolved
on pushing forward with expedition before the j^aucity of his
troops could be ascertained, and striking a blow wliile the appre-
hensions he had excited were still fresh and undiminished. He
dispatched a courier to Fremont with orders to join him on the
Plains of the Mesa, and on the 11th of August commenced his
march to meet Castro. The most constant vigilance was now
necessary to prevent surprise. The enemy's skirmishers were
almost daily in sight, and it was impossible to estimate their
numbers. The only provisions with which the commodore was
supplied were those afforded by the cattle, which were driven
along in hollow squares. The artillery was dragged over hill and
plain, and through rugged valleys, slowly and painfully, yet with
the utmost alacrity. A cheerful and courageous spirit animated
the little host, inspired by a leader in whom they felt the most
unbounded confidence. The distance between San Pedro and
Los Angeles was thirty miles, and was traversed in a single day
by Stockton and his little army. But before they could come
up, Castro, advised by his spies of their march, despite his pre-
vious gasconade and boastful threats, and no doubt mindful of
the terrible engine of destruction seen by his commissioners,
broke up his camp, disbanded his forces, and fled with all possi-
ble expedition to Sonora. Between seven hundred and a thou-
sand mounted troops strongly posted, with seven pieces of artil-
lery, dissolved and disappeared before the daring demonstration
of the American commander, at the head of only about three

108 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

hundred seamen and marines, as poorly equipped, and as motley
and as curious a specimen of military organization as ever before
took the field, to meet in an unknown country any civilized foe.
Colton, in lu's " Three years in California," says : " Gen. Castro
had taken up his position just outside the pueblo, on an elevation
which commands the town and adjacent country. He was well
supplied with field pieces, and had a force of seven hundred men.
Cum. Stockton landed at San Pedro with three hundred seamen
and marines from the Congress, and marched against him. His
route, which extended some thirty miles, lay through several
narrow passes, which Gen. Castro might easily have defended
against a much superior force. But the general kept in his
entrenched camp ; and informed the commodore by a courier,
* that if he marched upon the town he would find it the grave of
his men.' ' Then,' said the commodore, ' tell the general to have
the bells ready to toll in the morning at eight o'clock, as I shall
be there at that time.' He was there ; but Castro in the mean
time had broken up his camp, mounted with an armed band and
fled."

Stockton, who was subsequently joined by Fremont, took
possession of Los Angeles on the 13th of August. A number
of Mexicans of high rank surrendered themselves prisoners of
war, among whom were Don Jose Maria Flores and Don Andreas
Pico, who were permitted to go at large on their parole of honor
not to bear arms against the United States ; a clemency which
they abused afterwards by violating their parole. Commodore
Stockton now by proclamation declared California a Territory of
the United States ; and as all resistance had ceased, proceeded
to organize a civil and military government, appointing various
civil functionaries and establisliing provisional rules of adminis-
tration, himself retaining for the present the positions of com-
mander-in-chief and governor. The people were invited to
assemble on the 15th September to choose officers under the ex-
isting form of government. A tariff of duties on imports was
prescribed, and the inhabitants were encouraged to resume their
usual occupations. Thus, in less than one month from the time
when Stockton commenced his operations, Cahfornia was con-
quered, in the face of a superior hostile army ; that army van-

THE MARCH FROM SAN PEDRO TO LOS ANGELES. 109

quishedanci dispersed, and the government of the conquerors quietly-
imposed on the country. In establishing a local government for
California, Com. Stockton displayed the discretion, abilities, dis-
crimination, and judgment of the skilful statesman, as conspicu-
ously as he had exhibited on the field the prudence^ enterprise,
and valor of the soldier.

This march of Stockton upon the capital of California,
though it was accomplished without a battle, or the loss of a
single man, was nevertheless performed under circumstances of
great difficulty as well as danger. A less enterprising officei
would have contented himself with protecting those places on
the coast already occupied ; and a less pejietrating and compre-
hensive mind would not have appreciated the importance of sup-
pressing all demonstrations of hostility in every part of this ex-
tensive territory. The moral effect of Stockton's march on
Ciudad de los Angeles upon the minds of the Californians was
equivalent to a triumphant victory, and the effusion of streams
of blood. It broke down the spirit of resistance, destroyed all
confidence in the courage or capacity of the Californian generals,
and inspired the inhabitants with terror of an enemy who moved
with such celerity and boldness, wliile his humane conduct recon-
ciled the people to the change of government. The conception
of such an expedition, into the heart of an enemy's unknown
country, with a force composed principally of sailors, unaccus-
tomed to the fatigues and obstacles of a long march ; to en-
counter an opposing army of vastly superior numbers, upon their
own soil, in defence of their own country, well armed, the best
horsemen, and mounted on the finest horses in the world, re-
quired the most intrepid courage, indomitable energy, fertility of
resource, and self-reliance, such as we find only combined in
minds of the highest order, and characters cast in a heroic mould.
Yet despite all the difficulties with which he had to contend, in
the modest language of his despatch to the government, in less
than one month from the time he assumed command, he had
"chased the Mexican army more than three hundred miles
along the coast, pursued them into the interior of their own
country, — ^routed and dispersed them, and secured the territory
to the United States, — ended the war, restored peace and

IIQ ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

harmony among the people, and put a civil government into
successful ojieration."

AVhile these events were occurring, official intelligence was
received hy Stockton of war between Mexico and the United
States. On hearing which, he left fifty men to garrison Los
An'^-oles, and a still smaller force at Santa Barbara and San
Diego, and proceeded north to look after the condition of affairs
in that quarter. At Monterey he was informed that Sutter's
settlement was threatened by one thousand Walla- Walla
Indians. He at once sailed for San Francisco with the inten-
tion of making a demonstration against this new enemy. But
on his arrival there, he found that the reports of Indian aggres-
sions were unfounded ; and after an interview with some of the
Indian chiefs he ascertained their friendly disposition, and con-
firmed their amicable opinions by such assurance as secured their
subsequent neutrality.

Everywhere on his progress through the country, the com-
modore was greeted with an enthusiastic welcome, and hailed as
the conqueror and deliverer of the territory. At San Francisco,
the entire population of that place and the adjacent country
gave him a formal reception — men, women and children march-
ing in procession to low-water mark to meet him — and address-
ing him in terms of the most exalted praise and ardent devotion.
His triumphant advent was celebrated with a banquet and ball,
and the wildest demonstrations of joy and satisfaction. The indus-
trious, sober, and peacefully disposed part of the inhabitants
were glad to be relieved from the domination of the cruel and
plundering chiefs and governors, who alternately ravaged the
country, contended with each other, and oppressed the peoj^le.
They soon perceived the advantages of security to life and pro-
perty, which they never had enjoyed until the flag of the United
States was floating on their soil.

The disposition of the inhabitants of the northern part of
California in favor of the new government was particularly
manifested at this time, on the occasion of a rumor that a large
force was being collected in Sonora for the purpose of re-conquer-
ing the country. They exhibited the utmost repugnance to any
such event, offering the commodore all needed assistance in

Stockton's design to join general taylor. Ill

their power to contribute, and disiDlapng their fears ^vith the
earnestness of perfect sincerity. Having called on Stockton to
express their apprehensions, he assured them, in a characteristic
harangue, of his protection, and confirmed their confidence in
his determination to preser^^e his conquest : "You tell me," he
said, " that a thousand Sonorians are on their way to encounter
my men. Be not alarmed. Ten thousand Sonorians could not
excite our fears or arrest our progress. The sons of liberty are
on their way, and God alone can stay their march." They
returned with this assurance, satisfied that under such a leader
no reverse could happen which would endanger their present
security. In tliis state of flattering tranquillity and general
acquiescence with the new order of things, prevailing over the
greater part of California, but more particularly at the north,
Stockton was justified in believing, so far as appearances went,
that the conquest of California was comj)lete. The civil govern-
ment was in successful operation, and seemed fully adequate to
the exigencies of the country.

Such being the condition and aspect of affairs, the active
mind and patriotic impulses of Stockton induced him to seek
another field of useful service. He conceived the vast, magnifi-
cent and bold design of recruiting a force of volunteers in Cali-
fornia from among the American population then about settling
in the territory, sailing with them to Acapulco, and then striking
across the continent to unite with the forces of General Taylor,
then, as he supposed, approaching the City of Mexico.

The following is a copy of one of his confidential despatches
revealing his purpose : —

[" CONFIDENTIAL.]

" U. S. Frigate Congress^ Bay of Monterey^
September Idth, 1846.

" Deae Sir :— I have sent Major Fremont to the North to see how many
men he could recruit with a view to embark them for Mazatlan or Acapulco,
where, if possible, I intend to land and fight our way as far on to the City of
Mexico as I can.

" With tlus object in view, your orders of this date in relation to having
the squadron in such places as may enable me to get them together as soon as
possible, are given.

112 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

" You will on 3'our arrival on the coast get all the information you can in
reference to tliis matter.

'' I would that we might shake hands with General Taylor at the gates of

Mexico.

« Faithfully,

" Your obedient servant,

" R. F. Stockton, Commodore. &c.

" To Capt. "Wm. Mertine, U. S. Frigate Savannah^

Certainly a more daring, brilliant, and master-stroke of
military sagacity, has seldom ever been conceived. It reminds
us of the famous exploits of the most renowned heroes of
ancient and modern times. Instructions were given Col. Fre-
mont, who had previously been appointed military commandant
of California, to raise the necessary force to execute this bold
design. But while he was engaged in the performance of these
orders, intelligence from the south arrived which compelled the
abandonment of the proposed expedition, and concentrated all
the attention of Stockton upon the theatre of his recent success.

N- «V.rl< I A;,pin„i, * Co 346 i ^48. Broadwuy.

CHAPTER X.

Insurrection of the Californians. — Proclamation of General Flores. — Defeat and surrender of Talbot
and Gillespie.— Captain Mervine defeated, -with the crew of the Savannah. — Com. Stockton defeats
the Callfiirnians at San Diego. — Defeat of General Kearny at San Pasqual. — The official relations
of Com. Stockton and Gen. Kearny. — Movement against Los Angeles. — Battles of the Eio San
Gabriel, and the Plains <if the Mesa. — Fremont negotiates with General Flores and Andreas Pico.
— Fremont appointed Governor, and subsequently tried by Court Martial. — Arrival of Commodore
Shubrick, and the confirmation of General Kearny as Governor. — Mexican Governors of Califor-
nia. — Foreign Consuls in the Territory.

No sooner had Stockton left Los Angeles for the north, than the
Mexican chiefs, indignant and chafed with the knowledge of the
smallness of the force before which they had fled so ingloriously,
sought to retrieve their tarnished honor. Gen. Flores secretly
rallied the fragments of his scattered troops, and suddenly, on the
23d of September, invested Los Angeles with a force overwhelm-
ingly superior to that of the garrison. Capt. Gillespie, who was
in command, was obhged to capitulate on the 30th, and was al-
lowed to retire to Monterey. Lieut. Talbot, who had charge of
Santa Barbara, was also compelled to evacuate that place, but
without surrendering his anus. Intelligence of these successes,
greatly exaggerated, was soon spread over the whole country, and
almost the entire Mexican population of the southern portion of
California rose in arm^, to drive the invaders from their soil.
Flores, who was chiefly instrumental in fomenting the insuiTec-
rection, issued the following proclamation : —

" Mexican Army^ Section of Operations^
Angeles^ October \«t^ 1846.

" Fellow-Citizens : — It is a month and a half that, by lamentable fatal-
ity, fruit of the cowardice and inability of the first authorities of the depart-
ment, we behold ourselves subjugated and oppressed by an insignificant force
of adventurers of the United States of America, and placing us in a worse con-
dition than that of slaves.

" They are dictating to us despotic and arbitrary laws, and loading us with

114 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

contributions and onerous burdens, which have for an object the ruin of our
industry and agriculture, and to force us to abandon our property, to be pos-
sessed and divided among themselves.

" And shall we be capable to allow ourselves to be subjugated, and to
accept, by our silence, the weighty chains of slavery ? Shall we permit to be
lost the soil inherited from our fathers, which cost them so much blood and
60 many sacrifices ? Shall we make our families victims of the most barbarous
slavery? Shall we wait to see our wives violated — our innocent children
punished by the American whips — our property sacked — our temples profaned
— and, lastly, to drag through an existence full of insult and shame ? No ! a
thousand times no ! Countrymen, first death !

" Who of you does not feel his heart beat with violence ; who does not
feel his blood boil, to contemplate our situation ; and who will be the Mexican
who will not feel indignant, and who will not rise to take up arms to destroy
our oppressors ? We beheve there is not one so vile and cowardly, AVith
such a motive the majority of the inhabitants of the districts, justly indignant
against our tyrants, raise the cry of war, with arms in their hands, and of one
accord swear to sustain the following articles : —

*' 1st. We, the inhabitants of the department of California, as members of
the great Mexican nation, declare that it is, and has been, our wish to belong
to her alone, free and independent.

" 2d. Consequently the authorities intended and named by the invading
forces of the United States are held null and void.

" 3d. All the North Americans, being enemies of Mexico, we swear not to
lay down our arms till they are expelled from the Mexican territory.

" 4th. All Mexican citizens, from the age of fifteen to sixty, who do not
take up arms to forward the present plan, are declared traitors, and under pain
of death.

" 5th. Every Mexican or foreigner who may directly or indirectly aid the
enemies of Mexico will be punished in the same manner.

" 6th. The property of the North Americans in the department, who may
directly or indirectly have taken part with, or aided the enemies, shall be con-
fiscated and used for the expenses of the war ; and their persons shall be taken
to the interior of the republic.

" 7th. All those who may oppose the present plan will be punished with
arms.

" 8th. All the inhabitants of Santa Barbara, and the district of the north,
will be invited immediately to adhere to the present plan.

"Jose Ma. Flores.

" Camp in Angeles^ September 2Uh, 1846."

[Signed by more than 300 persons.]

This proclamation, thus numerously signed, indicated a spirit
of the most decisive hostility, and a consciousness of strength,
which, considering the small force of the American commander-

REVOLT OF THE CALIFORNIANS. 115

m-chief, was calculated to alarm him, with the insufficiency of
his means to cope with an enemy so superior in numbers. It
was now apparent that the work of conquest would have to be
repeated, and the most prompt and energetic measures were
adopted for that purpose. Stockton proceeded at once to San
Francisco, and despatched the frigate Savannah for San Pedro, to
reinforce the American garrison at that place. Fremont, then
at Sacramento, was ordered to San Francisco, with what force
could be collected, and about the 12th of October sailed, with
one hundred and sixty volunteers, for Santa Barbara, where he
was directed to procure horses, and subsequently to move simul-
taneously with Stockton upon the enemy at Los Angeles. The
Savannah did not arrive at San Pedro till after the defeat and
surrender of Talbot and Gillespie. Her crew, however, about
three hundred and twenty, though poorly armed, were landed,
and under Captain Mervine, attacked a large body of mounted
Californians about twelve miles from San Pedro. After a severe
engagement, they were repulsed, and retreated with the loss of
five killed and six wounded. Several subsequent skirmishes took
place, but with no material results.

As soon as Com. Stockton had completed his arrangements
for the security of the north, he proceeded in the frigate Congress
to the seat of war. Upon his arrival at San Pedro, about the
23d of October, he landed his crew in the face of the enemy, who
were in force to the number of eight hundred men. They
seemed, however, indisposed for an encounter, and retired into
the interior. And in order to give time to Fremont to mount
his men and co-operate in the contemplated campaign, as well as
on account of the greater security of the anchorage and protec-
tion from the storms which prevailed at this season on the coast,
and from the impossibility of procuring animals either for food or
transportation, (the enemy having driven them all into the inte-
rior,) Stockton re-embarked his men and sailed for San Diego.
In attempting to enter that harbor, the Congress grounded after
crossing the bar, and in such a way that it was necessary to sup-
port her with spars. While thus engaged, the Californians at-
tacked the town ; but in despite of the necessity of employing a
part of his force about the frigate, the commodore landed with

11 (J ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

the remainder, and after a short encounter, defeated the enemy.
The condition of San Diego was miserable in the extreme, and
neither horses nor cattle could be obtained in the neighborhood.
The enemy were in great force at San Bernardo, thirty miles dis-
tant, from whence detaclunents repeatedly visited San Diego, keep-
inn- up for many days their desultory attacks. A party of Americans
were despatched down the coast in. pursuit of cattle, a supply of
which they fortunately met and drove into camp.

Immediately after landing at San Diego, Stockton commenced
energetic preparations for a march on Los Angeles. His men
were daily disciplined according to the tactics adopted, and what-
ever time could be spared was -employed in building a fort, and
making saddles, shoes, and other equipments. Information was
received from Fremont that he could not procure horses at Santa
Barbara, and that he had gone to Monterey for that purpose.
Capt. Gibson had obtained a few horses, but they were poor and
worn down with severe marches, requiring rest before they could
be fit for service. Capt. Hensley, however, who had been sent
on an expedition to the south, after much arduous service, re-
turned with five hundred head of cattle and one hundred and
forty horses. While preparations were progressing for the march
on Los Angeles, a messenger arrived about the 3d of December,
with a letter from General Kearny, apprising Com. Stockton of
his approach, and expressing a desire to open a communication,
but without disclosing his actual situation. On the same even-
ing. Captain Gillespie was despatched with a force of thirty-five
men to meet Kearny. On the 6th of December, another messen-
ger arrived, bringing information of the defeat and perilous sit-
uation of General Kearny at San Pasqual. On his way from
New Mexico, with a considerable force, while a few days from
Santa Fe, Kearny met Carson, the courier sent by Com. Stock-
ton, with despatches to the Government, giving information of
the conquest of California, and the establishment there of a civil
government. Considering, therefore, the work of subjugation of
that territory completed, Kearny turned back the greater part of
his troops, and proceeded on his way toward California, taking
Carson as his guide. At, or near San Pasqual, he was intercept-
ed by the Californians, and defeated, with the loss of eighteen

OFFICIAL RELATIONS OF STOCKTON AND KEARNY. 117

men killed and as many wounded, and one of his two howitzers.
He took refuge on a rocky eminence, closely invested by the enemy.
All his ammunition and nearly all his provisions were exhausted.
Under cover of night he despatched couriers, who with much diffi-
culty eluded the vigilance of the foe and reached San Diego. On
learning these facts, Stockton was about to proceed in person with
all his force to the relief of Kearny ; but subsequent messengers
brought intelligence that the strength of the enemy was much less
than had been represented. He therefore despatched Lieut. Gray,
with two hundred and fifty men, upon whose approach toward
San Pasqual, the besiegers abandoned the field, and left the re-
lief party to return unmolested with Kearny and his dragoons.

As the official relations of Com. Stockton and Gen. Kearny
have been the subject of much discussion, it is proper we should
say in what light we consider them. Gen. Kearny was directed
by instructions from the Secretary of War to invade Cahfornia
with a prescribed force, and " should he conquer it," to establish
a civil government there. On his way, learning that the objects
of the expedition had been accomplished by Com. Stockton, as
above related, he turned back his troops, proceeded with a small
party, was attacked and defeated by the enemy, and relieved
from imminent danger by the detachment sent by Stockton.
Arrived at San Diego, he consented, according to the testimony
of all then present, to act under Stockton, then on the eve of a
movement against Los Angeles. The following lucid statement
of the reception of Kearny by Stockton, and of their relative po-
sitions in that movement, we extract from the official letter of
the commodore to the Secretary of the Navy, made subsequent
to the court martial which tried Col. Fremont, and dated Febru-
ary 18th, 1848 :—

" On their arrival, General Kearny, his oflBcers, and men, were received by
all the garrison in the kindest and most respectful manner. So far as my ob-
servation extended, no civility or attention was omitted. Having sent with
Captain Gillespie every horse that was fit for use to General Kearny, I was
without one for my own accommodation. I was therefore compelled on foot
to advance and receive the general, whom I conducted to my own quarters,
until others more agreeable to him could be prepared. The arrival of General
Kearny was to me a source of gratification : although it was my decided
opinion, which as yet I have seen no reason to change, that under the circum-

lis ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

stances that existed I was entitled to retain the position in which I was
placed, of commander-in-chief: yet in consideration of his high standing in the
army, liis long experience as a soldier, the importance of military science and
skill in the nwvcmcnts that were to be made in the interior of the country, I
immediutoly determined to yield all personal feelings of ambition, and tc
place in his hands the supreme authority. In accordance with this determi-
nation I tendered to General Kearny the position of commander-in-chief, and
offered to accompany him as his aid.

" This proposition was on more than one occasion renewed, and with all
sincerity and singleness of purpose. The responsibility of moving from San
Diego and leaving the safety of the ships deprived of so large and efficient a
portion of their crews, was of itself a momentous one. This, however, in the
discharge of duty I felt no inclination to shrink from. But the fate of the
territory itself might depend upon the issue of a battle to be fought on shore
against an army organized to encounter us. The nature of the service, and
the importance of the stake, it seemed to me appertained rather to a general in
the ai-my than a captain in the navy. Whatever ambition I might feel for
distinction, either on my own account, or on that of the gallant officers and men
under my command, was voluntarily and deliberately offered as a sacrifice to
a paramount sense of dutj'. The offers thus made were, however, on every
occasion positively and distinctly declined by General Kearny, who on his side
offered to accompany me in the capacity of my aid, and tendered to afford me
the aid of his head and hand. A few days before I expected to take up the
line of march, I addressed a note to the general, expressing a wish that he
would accompany me. In his reply, he repeated the language which he had
before employed — that he would so accompany me, and afford me the aid of
his head and hand. Accordingly, on the morning of our departure he appeared
upon the ground. After the troops had been paraded, and were nearly
ready to commence the march, as I was about to mount my horse. General
Kearny approached me, and inquired, who was to command the troops. I
replied. Lieutenant Rowan was to have command. On his expressing a wish
that he should himself command them, I replied that he should have the com-
mand. The difierent ofiBcers were at once convened, and informed that Gen-
eral Kearny had volunteered to command the troops, and that I had given
him the appointment, reserving my own position as commander-in-chief.
This arrangement having been made, we proceeded on the march."

Gen. Kearny himself, on examination before the court mar-
tial, testified on the fom-teenth day of the trial, in relation to the
expedition to Los Angeles, — " Under Commodore Stockton's di-
rections every arrangement for the expedition was made. I had
notliing whatever to do with it." CoL Fremont, in his defence,
^yS) — " I^oth Gen. Kearny and the officers mider him received
and obeyed the orders of Com. Stockton, in some instances in
opposition to those first given by Gen. Kearny, both on the

THE MOVEMENT ON LOS ANGELES. 119

march and in the battles." Lieutenants Gray, Minor and Emo-
ry testified to the same elFect, From this, and much other cor-
roborating evidence, it is historically true that whatever of re-
sponsibihty or credit belongs to the movement upon Los Angeles,
at this time, must be attributed to Com. Stockton. He origi-
nated the expedition, provided the means for its prosecution, con-
ducted it as commander-in-chief, and is fairly entitled to the
praise due for its success.

On the 23d of December, general orders were issued, as
follows : —

" General Orders. — The forces composed of Oapt. Tilghman's Company
of Artillery, a detachment of the 1st Eegiment of Dragoons, Companies A
and B of California Battalion of Mounted Riflemen, and a detachment of sail-
ors and marines from the frigates Congress and Savannah, and the ship Ports-
mouth, will take up the line of march for the Ciudad de los Angeles on
^fonday morning, the 28th inst., at 10 a. m.

" By order of the Commander-in-Chief,

/' J. Zeilan",
" Brevet Captain and Adjutant.

" San Diego, 23cZ December, 1846."

On the 29th the march commenced. The distance to be
travelled between San Diego and Los Angeles was one hundred
and forty-five miles, the track lying through deep sands and over
steep and rugged ascents. The entire force consisted of five hun-
dred and forty sailors and marines, and sixty of Kearny's dra-
goons, and six pieces of artillery. The men, for the most part,
were poorly clothed, their shoes generally being made by them-
selves of canvas. Stockton, in his despatch of February 5th,
1847, to the Secretary of the Navy, says, — " We came to San
Diego with the Congress alone — her resources being almost ex-
hausted in a previous campaign. The town was besieged by the
insurgents, and there were no stores or provisions of any kind in
it, and we were reduced to one fourth allowance of bread. We
had to build a fort — to mount our artillery, — to make saddles,
bridles, and harness : we had, in truth, to make an army, with
all its necessary appendages, out of the mechanics and sailors of
this ship, and to take our horses and beef cattle from the enemy."
Captain Turner, of the dragoons, declined using the horses, in

120 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

their feeble condition, preferring to proceed without them, and
those taken along for purposes of draught were so miserable that
they daily became disabled, which devolved much hard work on
the men, in dragging the guns and the carts heavily laden with
provisions and ammunition. " Their route," says a writer alrea-
dy quoted, "lay through a rugged country, drenched with the
winter rains, and bristling with the lances of the enemy.
Throuo-li this the commodore led his seamen and marines, shar-
ing himself, with the general at his side, all the hardships of the
common sailors. The stern engagements with the enemy derive
their heroic features from the contrast existing in the condition
of the two. Tlie Californians were well mounted, and whirled
their flying artillery to the most convenient positions. Our
troops were on foot, mired to the ankle, and with no resources
except in their own indomitable resolution and courage. Their
exploits may be cast in the shadow by the clouds which roll up
from the plains of Mexico, but they are realities here, which im-
press themselves with a force which reaches the very foundations
of social order."

The enemy were frequently seen during the march, and the
utmost vigilance was constantly necessary, to prevent a surprise.
The celebrated Kit Carson had been selected to command a
small corps of scouts, and to act as spies and skirmishers, which
duty was performed in a most efficient manner. On the 3d of
January, at San Luis del Rev, Stockton despatched a messenger
to apprise Fremont of his advance, and to caution him against
the hazard of an action until a junction of their forces had taken
place. This messenger, however, did not reach Fremont until
the 9th January. Lieut. Selden, of the navy, was also sent with
a small vessel to the maritime defile of Rincon, to protect that
pass through which Fremont was expected to march. While ad-
vancing, propositions were received from Flores to negotiate,
which were rejected in the most peremptory terms. The bearers
were informed that no communication would be held with Flores,
he having forfeited his honor as a soldier, by breaking his parole.
They were likewise assured that Flores and every Mexican who
had broken his parole, if caught, would immediately be shot.

On the evening of January 7th, the whole force of the enemy

BATTLE OF SAN GABRIEL. 121

being not far distant, the commodore despatched a confidential
emissary to ascertain, under cover of night, their exact position
and strength. They were formed between the invading army
and the Rio San Gabriel, apparently waiting to give battle, and
were estimated at from one thousand to twelve hundred men,
composed almost whoUy of cavalry. On the morning of the 8th,
Stockton ordered all the guns of his men to be fired and re-loaded,
and passing through their ranks, reminded them that it was the
anniversary of the battle of New Orleans. They were then
formed in a square, with the baggage and cattle in the centre.
On approaching the river, the enemy were observed prepared for
their reception, and strongly posted on the opposite heights. The
banks commanding the ford (which was occupied by the artillery
of the Californians), were about fifty yards from the river, quite
steep, and about fifty feet high. When within a quarter of a
mile of the ford, the men were formed in line, and orders given
that not a gun should be fired until the crossing was effected.
The enemy, however, kept up a perpetual and brisk fire, though
with little eftect. In the act of crossing, the water being about
four feet deep, word was sent by Kearny to the commander-in-
chief that the bed of the river consisted of quicksand and could
not be passed with the guns. Stockton instantly repaired to the
head of the column, seized the ropes, and ■with his own hands as-
sisted to drag over the artillery. The passage effected, the
troops were again formed for battle. The commodore took
charge of the artillery, and pointed his guns with such precision
that the enemy were soon compelled to abandon theirs ; when he
sent Lieut. Gray with orders to Kearny to charge up the bank
and seize them, while he prej)ared to receive a charge which was
about being made on his flank. Before Kearny could reach the
summit of the ascent, the Californians returning, withdrew their
guns, making but a feeble stand against the general. The great-
er part of their force, after making a circuit of some hundred
yards, descending to the level of the river, attacked Stockton on
his left flank ; but they were so warmly received that they re-
treated upon the hill, the commodore following, charging up the
declivity with his artilleiy, in the very face of the enemy. On
his reaching the heights, the latter were seen at a short distance,

122 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

drawn up in battle array, with their artillery in front. The
Americans were now ordered to lie down, while their leader ran
out his guns, and poured upon the adversary a well-directed fire,
he liimself aiming each piece as fast as it was loaded, with such
fatal eflfect, that the enemy were repeatedly driven from their
guns. Several ineffectual attempts were made by them to
charge ; but the steady front, cool courage, and well aimed rifles
of the assailants repelled their attacks. Dispersed in every di-
rection on the heights, a portion of their right wing wheeled upon
the rear of the American forces, and attacked Capt. Gillespie,
encumbered with liis baggage and cattle, who received them so
warmly that they fled across the river. Their main body retreat-
ed before the assailants, until reaching a ravine, they renewed a
brisk fire, when Stockton again took charge of the guns, and by
his well-directed shots, drove them from their position. They
then rapidly fled, carrying ofi" their killed and wounded, the
numbers of which could not be ascertained. The Americans lost
two killed and nine wounded.

On the 9th, Stockton j)ursued the retiring foe in the direction
of Los Angeles, and after a march of six miles came up with
them on the Plains of the Mesa. They were well posted, with a
ravine to the left of their line, which masked their artillery.
When about six hundred yards distant they opened a fire on the
advancing column. Preparations for a charge were visible in
their ranks, and they were observed to be joined by a strong rein-
forcement. Stockton formed his whole force in square, with the
baggage, horses and oxen in the centre, and gave imperative com-
mands to his men not to fire a shot until he gave the signal,
wliich he said would not be until he could see the eyes of the
enemy. The Californians made a gallant charge. It is said by
those who witnessed it, to have been a brilliant spectacle. Gayly
caparisoned, with banners flying, mounted on fleet and splendid
horses, they bounded on, spurring to the top of their speed, on
the small but compact square into which the American force was
compressed. The very earth appeared to tremble beneath their
thundering hoofs — and nothing seemed capable of resistmg such
cavalry. But inspired with the cool courage and dauntless hero-
ism of their leader, his men patiently awaited the result. The

FREMONT NEGOTIATES WITH FLORES AND PICO. 123

signal was at length given, and a deadly fire, directed according
to orders at the horses, was poured into the ranks of the advanc-
ing foe, which emptied many saddles and threw them into com-
plete confusion. Ketreating a few hundred yards, they again
formed, and despatching a part of their force to the rear, they
attacked simultaneously three sides of the square. Orders were
renewed to reserve fire until the enemy's near approach, and with
the same decisive results, — their ranks breaking up and retreat-
ing in disorder. A third time, having rallied, they returned to
the charge, but once more their ranks were thinned by the dead-
ly aim of the assailed ; and despairing of their ability to cope
with men so cool, unflinching and resolute, confused and discom-
fited, they scattered and fled in every direction.

On the 10th of Januarv, at the head of his advanced guard,
on the broadest and principal road leading into Los Angeles, the
Commodore, with banners waving, marched into the city. He
directed Captain Gillespie to raise the same flag which he was
compelled to strike on the previous September.

A few days after these events, Fremont, without knowledge
of Stockton's movements and success, encountered Gen. Floresand
Andreas Pico and their disheartened remnant of followers, who in
humble terms sued for peace. Not knowing that the commander-
in-chief had refused to treat with them, Fremont entered into
negotiations, and finally agreed upon articles by which they stip-
ulated to surrender their arms, including the gun captured at San
Pasqual from Gen. Kearny, and cease from all further resistance.
These articles it was thought desirable to apjjrove, as they were
considered a final pacification in the territory between the con-
tending parties, and as clemency on the part of the conqueror was
more likely to insure that result than the sanguinary exercise of
inexorable justice. .

The following general order must close our narrative of the
military operations of Com. Stockton in California, We have ex-
tended it far beyond the Kmits originally contemplated; but as
the history of these events is closely connected with the subse-
quent prosperity of the country, and the present condition of San
Francisco, we have thought best to give it in all its interesting
details.

124 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

■' Head-quarters, Ciudad de los Angeles,
January Wth, 1847.

"The Commander-in-Chief congratulates the officers and men of the
southern division of tlie United States forces in California on the brilliant
victones obtained b}^ them over the enemy on the 8th and 9th instants, and
on once more taking possession of Ciudad de los Angeles.

" lie takes the earliest moment to commend their gallantry and good con-
duct both in the battle fought on the 8th, on the banks of the Rio San Ga-
briel and on the 9th inst., on the Plains of the Mesa.

" The steady courage of the troops in forcing their passage across the Rio
San Gabriel, where officers and men were alike employed in dragging the
guns through the water, against the galling fire of the enemy, without ex-
changing a shot, and their gallant charge up the banks against the enemy's
cavalry, has perhaps never been surpassed ; and the cool determination with
which in the battle of the 9th they repulsed the charge of cavalry made by
the enemy at the same time on their front and rear, has extorted the admiration
of the enemy, and deserves the best thanks of their countrymen.

" R. F. Stockton,
" Governor and Commander-in-Chief of the
Territory of California.''^

Commodore Stockton, in pursuance of instructions which he
had communicated to the Government in September, now appoint-
ed Col. Fremont governor of the territory, and Wm. H. Russell,
secretar3\ It is painful to relate that unfortunate disputes arose
as to the right of Fremont to the high dignity of governor. Gen-
eral Kearny produced a commission appointing himself to the
office. His pretensions, however, were opposed both by Stockton
and Fremont, who contended that a new train of circumstances
had arisen since the produced commission had been granted. The
instructions to General Kearny from the war department, ("should
he conquer the country,") Com. Stockton considered as anticipated
by himself ; and of course the resulting action prescribed by those
instructions contingently, ("to form a civil government,") as de-
volving on himself, the real conqueror of the, territory. In these
views of Stockton, the Government entirely acquiesced, — so far as
respected the approval in mass of his whole conduct, — the secre-
tary of the navy specially thanking him for anticipating the wishes
of the Government. It is not a little singular, that although the
validity of Stockton's acts was thus sanctioned, yet Col. Fremont,
for obedience to his orders, was tried by court martial, and con-
victed of disobedience to the orders of Gen, Kearny, His sentence

KEARNY BECOMES GOVERNOR OF CALIFORNIA. 125

was suspension from the service; but the President, in considera-
tion of his many services and mitigating circumstances, was pleas-
ed to remit the punishment, and ordered him to be restored to
his former rank. But Fremont, being of opinion that lie had done
no wrong, refused to accept this clemency, and accordingly resign-
ed his commission, and retired from the American military service.
Whatever may have been the merits of this case, it is certain that
Fremont showed himself a true hero, in his eiforts to overthrow
the Mexican power in California, and is deserving of the gratitude
of American settlers in that territory. As an adventurous, per-
severing and talented explorer, who has laid open practicable and
easy paths to a great country that had long been closed against
the boldest pioneers, he deserves the approbation of the civilized
world.

In the mean time. General Kearny applied to Commodore
Shubrick (who arrived in California on the22d of January, 1847,
and as senior in commission, superseded Commodore Stockton in
command of the squadron,) to place him in the chief command.
But under the instructions to Com. Sloat of 12th July, 1846,
which devolved on the naval commander the conquest and civil
government of California, Shubrick did not consider himself au-
thorized to accede to his wishes. Soon after, however, other in-
structions, dated 9th November, 1846, having been received by
Com. Shubrick, Kearny was recognized as governor, and acted as
such until he relinquished the command to Colonel Mason, upon
his departure for Washington. These instructions Kearny did
not communicate to Fremont. Thus there were two acting gov-
ernors at the same time in California, and Fremont, without any
knowledge of his authority being annulled by the instructions of
the 9th November, subjected himself, in the performance of what
he considered his duties, to charges of disobedience to his superior
officer. He was ordered to surrender the howitzer lost by Kearny
at San Pasqual, at this time in possession of the California batta-
lion, to the Mormon regiment under Col. Cooke. This could not
have been done without the hazard of a revolt, and therefore was
declined by Fremont.

Before narrating the further steps adopted by the Americans,
when they had thus taken military possession of the country, we

126 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

may give a brief notice of the various governors and other public
officers who were connected with Cahfornia, subsequently to the
Mexican declaration of independence. The list is somewhat a
long one for so short a period ; and illustrates the feeble hold which
Mexico had upon the poUtical affections of so remote and neglect-
ed a province : —

Sola was the last Californian governor under the Spanish flag
and the first under the Mexican. In 1823 he was ordered to
Mexico, and Don Luis Antonio Argilello was named governor,
with all the powers of his predecessor, and remained so until the
arrival of Echeandia, in the beginning of 1825. Echeandia had
command until the arrival of Victoria, in 1830. Victoria con-
tinued in power until the winter of 1832, when the Californians
revolted, and sent him aw\ay. At that time Pio Pico was the
senior member of the territorial department, and by law became
governor pro tempore. Echeandia, meanwhile, had remained
among his friends at San Diego, probably expecting some speedy
change in political affairs ; and, when Victoria was about to leave,
he took the military command. Both he and Pico continued in
of&ce tiU. the arrival of Figueroa in 1833. Figueroa died in 1835 ;
and, during his last illness, delivered over the civil command to
Don Jose Castro, and the military to Don Nicolas Gutierrez,
Castro being at that time senior member of the department. These
remained in office until the arrival of Chico, in 1836. The same
year Chico was sent away by the Junta department. Previous
to his departure he left the military and civil command with Gu-
tierrez, he having been formerly his second.

On the 6th of November, 1836, the Californians, assisted by
foreigners under Captain Graham, an American, and Captain
Coppinger, an Eughshman, revolted against Gutierrez ; and the
latter was forced to leave the country, with all his officers, except
those who took part in favor of the natives, and wished to remain.
Don Blariano Guadalupe Vallejo played an important ro^e in this
revolution, and became commander of the forces ; while l^s nephew,
Don Juan Bautista Alvarado, was made civil governor. These
positions they held until the arrival of Miclieltorena, in 1842.
Early in 1845, Micheltorena was sent away by the Californians,
after forming a sort of treaty with them (he being desirous to pro-

CONSULS IN CALIFORNIA. 127

ceed to Mexico), leaving Jose Castro with the mihtary command.
Pio Pico, who was again the senior member of the Junta depart-
ment, then became governor. These two continued in power, as
mihtary and civU heads respectively, until the Americans took
possession of the countiy. iSola, Argiiello, Echeandria, Victoria,
Figueroa, Chico and Micheltorena, all had the united civil and
military authority.

In 1843, Mr. Thomas 0. Larkin was appointed the first, as
he happened to be the last American consul in California. That
gentleman also held various other official and imjDortant appoint-
ments from the United States Government up to the year 1848,
when peace was declared, and the country became American. In
1845, Mr. Larkin, who resided at Monterey, the nominal Mexican
capital of the province, named Mr. William A. Leidesdorff the
United States vice-consul, at the port of San Francisco. 3Ir.
James A. Forbes received the appointment of the first British con-
sul in 1844, or 1845. The first French consul^ Bon Luis Gasquet,
arrived in California, via Mexico, about the 10 th of May, 1845,
and left some time in 1847. He remained a considerable time in
the countiy after he delivered the consulate over to M. Movenhaut.

CHAPTER XI.

Peace concluded between the Mexican and American States.— Terms of the Treaty.— California ceded
to the United States.— The country ruled provi.sionally by American Governors.— Eapid increase
of population by immigration.— Discovery of gold on the American River by Mr. James "W. Mar-
ehall.- Great excitement in consequence of tlie discovery, and rush of people to the gold placets.
—Mixed character of the population.— Necessity for the establishment of a proper form of Gov-
ernment.— Independent sectional legislation inadequate and unsatisfactory.— Meetings held to
effect a general civil organization.— General Riley issues a proclamation for a meeting to be held
at Monterey to adopt a State Constitution.— Names of delegates appointed. — Meeting at Monte-
rey.— Constitution of California adopted, and rejoicings on the occasion.

The general war continued for about a year after the reduction
of California. At last, in the month of February, 1848, an ar-
mistice was entered into between the hostile parties, which en-
dured till a formal treaty of peace was concluded. This was rati-
fied by the Senate of the United States in March, and by the
Mexican Congress in May following of the year just named. By
this treaty a considerable territory was ceded by Mexico. The
boundary line between it and the United States was declared to
be the Rio Grande, up mid-channel of which it ran till about the
thirty-second parallel ; from whence, turning westward, along the
southern limit of New Mexico till it cut the Gila, down the mid-
dle of wliich river it proceeded till its junction with the Rio Colo-
rado ; from whence it ran westward till it reached the Pacific, at a
point about one league south of San Diego, nearly on latitude
thirty-two and a half Thus Texas, to its full extent. New Mex-
ico and Upper California were altogether contained within the
boundary line on the American side. The free navigation of the
Rio Colorado, from the mouth of the Gila to the Gidf of Califor-
nia, as well as of the gulf itself, were likewise secured to the Uni-
ted States. To compensate, in some measure, for the cession of
such a vast territory, the American Government agi-eed to pay to
Mexico the sum of $15,000,000 ; and, moreover, took upon itself
all liabiUty for the damages due by Mexico to American subjects,

RAPID INCREASE OF POPULATION. 129

which, as before stated, was one of the original causes of the war.
Each nation was to defray its own expenses in conducting hostil-
ities. There were several minor stipulations in the treaty ; but
with these we have nothing here to do. It is sufficient merely to
say, that California was now, wholly and legally, a portion of the
American Union ; and her people of Spanish or of other origin,
were henceforward American citizens.

Meanwhile the country was ruled, provisionally, by successive
American governors, until a constitution could be granted by
Congress, when it would be formally assumed as a Territory of the
Union. Events, however, were about to happen which superse-
ded the necessity of such a constitution, and hastened the devel-
opment of California into a State, Avithout passing through the
intermediate stage of a territory. Like the Minerva on its public-
seal, it started into life a full grown being, ripe in all its faculties
and powers, and at once fitted to contend with whoever and what-
ever should oppose its wonderful progress. This was owing to
the discovery of gold in the country and consequent rush of immi-
gration thither, with all its attendant effects.

But before this discovery took place, a vast immigration
from all sides had begun to flow towards California. The pre-
vious advantages which the country had offered to the intending
immigrant, were on a sudden immensely increased by the cir-
cumstance of its being now a portion of the American Union.
Accordingly, large bodies of people were beginning to flock to
the land ; and agriculture, trade and commerce were greatly
benefited by the accession of such numbers of active, intelligent
and industrious settlers. In 1845, it was estimated that the
white population had increased to about 8,000 ; while the do-
mesticated Indians, who but a dozen years before had numbered
nearly 30,000, now scarcely amounted to one-third of that
number. As for the wild or " gentile " Indians, it was impossi-
ble to form any reasonable conjecture as to their numbers. They
were, however, generally supposed, by different parties, to num-
ber from one to three hundred thousand. As they inhabited
districts hitherto scarcely visited by the white man, their pres-
ence and numbers were considered as of no account in the pro-
gress of the country. The years 1846 and 1847 brought a very
9

130 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

large accession to the white population. Colonel Stevenson's
re"-iinent of Now York volunteers alone gave a body of a thou-
sand liardy settlers, as nearly the whole number, officers as well
as men, remained in the country upon being disbanded, which
indeed had been anticipated. But beside these, great numbers
of Americans had journeyed from the Atlantic States across the
Rocky and Snowy Mountains, and settled in California. Nume-
rous com})anies of Mormons likewise either came direct from the
Eastern States, or from their settlements beside the Great Salt
Lake. A portion of these had formed the noted " Mormon Battal-
ion " of the war. At the same time, far more than the usual
proportion of stragglers, runaway seamen, and adventurers from
all nations continued to pour into the country, so soon as the
war and its first results were known. At the close of hostilities,
it was estimated that the white population, of all nations, num-
bered between 12,000 and 15,000, which was not merely annually
but daily increasing. Such was the beneficent influence and
magic power of the Ameiican flag ! People knew that they
were safe under its folds, and free to run the race of a prosperous
career.

But immeasurably exceeding all other causes in raising the
swelling tide of immigration was the discovery of gold. This
happened at Coloma, a valley and town situated between fifty
and sixty miles east of Sacramento City, in the month of Janu-
ary, 1848 ; curiously enough, just when the land was ceasing to
be Mexican. Many strange and improbable stories have been
told as to the alleged earliest discoveries ; but we believe that
the only reliable account is that given by Captain Sutter, upon
whose ground the precious metal was first found, and which we
shall therefore adopt, without noticing the various fabulous state-
ments alluded to.

It appears that Captain Sutter, during the winter of 1847-48,
was erecting a saw-mill for producing lumber, on the south fork
of the American River, a feeder of the Sacramento. Mr. James
W. Marshall contracted with Sutter for the building of this mill;
and, in the course of his operations, had occasion to admit the
river water into the tail-race, for the purpose of widening and
deepening it by the strength of the current. In doing this, a

DISCOVERY OF GOLD.

131

considerable quantity of mud, sand and gravel was carried along
with the stream, and deposited in a heap at the foot of the tail-
race. Marshall, when one day examining the state of his works,
noticed a few glittering particles lying near the edge of the heap.
His curiosity being aroused, he gathered some of the sparkling
objects ; and at once became satisfied of their nature and the

Sutlers Mill.

value of his discovery. All trembling with excitement, he hur-
ried to his employer, and told his story. Captain Sutter at first
thought it was a fiction, and the teller only a mad fool. Indeed,
he confesses, that he kept a sharp eye upon his loaded rifle, when
he, whom he was tempted to consider a maniac, was eagerly dis-
closing the miraculous tale. However, his doubts were all at
once dispelled when Marshall tossed on the table before him an
ounce or so of the shining dust. The two agreed to keep the
matter secret, and quietly share the golden harvest between them.
But, as they afterwards searched more narrowly together, and

132 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

ul.jated upon the rich deposits, their eager gestures and looks,
and muttered, broken words, happened to be closely watched by
a Mormon laborer employed about the neighborhood. He followed
their movements, and speedily became as wise as themselves.
As secrecy was of little importance to him, he forthwith divulged
the extraordinary intelligence, and in confirmation of the story,
exhibited some scales of gold which he had himself gathered.
Immediately, every body in the neighborhood left his regular
employment, and began to search for the precious metal. A
laro-e body of Mormon immigrants about this time was approach-
ing California by the south pass of the Eocky Mountains ; and,
on hearing news of the discovery, hastened at once to the spot.
Rumors of these circumstances speedily flew across the length
and breadth of the land, variously modified by the warmth or
coolness of fancy of the successive narrators, but all agreeing in
this, that gold was to be had in large quantities, for the mere
trouble of picking it up, at Sutter's Mill, on the south fork of the
Rio de los Amei'icanos. To that quarter, then, all the loose
population around instantly directed their steps. Soon the neigh-
borhood swarmed with diggers; and, within a few days after the
first discovery, upwards of twelve hundred people were busily at
work, with spades, shovels, knives, sticks, wooden bowls, cradles,
and all manner of implements, many of them of the rudest and
most primitive fashion, excavating, riddling and washing earth
for the precious particles it contained. Over all Cahfornia the
excitement was prodigious. Spaniard, American and foreigner
were all alike affected. The husband left his wife ; the father,
his family ; people tore themselves from the most pressing duties
at home ; men deserted their masters, and these followed their
servants — all hurried to Sutter's Mill. Some withstood the
temptation for a short time ; but, very soon, nearly the whole
male population of the country, unable to resist the evidence of
their senses when specimens of the newly found gold were exhi-
bited before their dilated eyes, became suddenly infected with the
maddened whirl of the " yellow fever," — the auri sacra fames,
and rushed ofi" at a tangent, helter-skelter, to gather riches, as
Aladdin had plucked fruits of priceless value in his fairy garden,
in tlic bowels of the earth, among the valleys of the Snowy

MIXED CHARACTER OF THE POPULATION. 133

Mountains. Towns were dispeopled, ships in harbor deserted, all
kinds of business sent to the dogs ; the whole settled parts of
the country were suddenly deprived of their inhabitants, or wo-
men and children alone formed the population, though even of
these many flocked to the placers and the diggings, to see and
be seen, to make money somehow, and as surely to spend it.

Meanwhile, other streams and other valleys were found to
contain the auriferous sands. Not only the whole strip of coun-
try west of the Sierra Nevada, which was drained by feeders of
the Sacramento, but that other strip, locally in connection with
the former, and lying to the south, which was watered by the
streams which fell into the San Joaquin, was ascertained also to
possess auriferous deposits in large quantities. In fact it was
believed that the gold regions could not be exhausted of their
treasures during countless generations. There was enough,
therefore, and to spare, for all comers, though their name should
be " legion." Individuals were daily making considerable for-
tunes, while all who chose to work steadily at the business, were
sure to earn much larger wages than they could do at any other
kind of labor in the country.

All this while, the few ships that were enabled to get away
from the coast, and travellers and expresses by land, were spread-
ing the news far and wide over remote seas and through foreign
climes. The circles of excitement grew wider and wider, and scarce-
ly lost strength as they spread farther distant. First, the Mexi-
cans from the nearest, and then those from the remotest provinces,
flocked to California. The indolent, yet adventurous, half-wild
population of Sonora poured in its many thousands from the
south ; while Oregon from the north sent its sturdy settlers in
almost equal numbers. The Sandwich Islands followed, with
their strange medley of white and colored races. Peru and
Chili then hurried an innumerable crowd, as fast as ships couLl be
obtained to carry them to the fields of gold. Before long, China
sent forward her thousands of thrifty wandering children, feeble,
indeed, both in body and mind, but persevering, and from their
union into laboring companies, capable of great feats. Australia
likewise contributed her proportion of clever rascals, and per-
haps as many clever adventurers who had not been convicted

134 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

felons. The United States, which at all times contain a vast
roving and excitable ])oi)ulation, next were afiected to their very
centres ; and armies — to use a moderate term, were on a sudden
organized instantly to proceed to California and share in the
golden spoil. The year 1848 was lost for the land passage ; but
by the early svnnmer of 1849, great and numerous caravans were
in full march, by various routes, across the Rocky Mountains.
Many hardshijjs were endured by these immigrants, and numbers
died on the road. But their unburied bodies and bleaching
skeletons were unheeded by the succeeding throng, or only pointed
out to the weary yet restless travellers the paths where others
had gone before, and which j)erhaps the new-comers should only
avoid. On — on ! to the land of gold ! There, fortune smiled on
all, while her worshippers revelled among riches. On — on !
Round Cape Horn fleets were bearing additional thousands ;
while through Mexico to all her eastern ports, and especially
across the Isthmus of Panama, still other thousands were hurry-
ing, by new ships on the Pacific, to the " Golden Gate." Later
in the year, and somewhat diminished in intensity, the excite-
ment produced in Europe similar results. Many of the young,
strong and adventurous, the idle, dissipated, reckless, sanguine
youths of Great Britain, France and Germany, broke through
the ties of home, friends and country, and perhaps of civilization
itself, and embarked for California, to seize fortune in a bound,
and with one eager clutch, or to perish in the attempt.

These astonishing circumstances soon gfithered into California
a mixed population of nearly a quarter of a million of the wildest,
bravest, most intelligent, yet most reckless and perhaps dangerous
beings ever before collected into one small district of country.
Gold, and the pleasures that gold could buy, had allured them
to the scene. They were flushed with hope and excitement.
Ciiiefly young men, they were naturally boisterous and riotous.
When their " blood was up " they would dare all things, heedless
of consequences. Rich or poor — fortunate, or the reverse in their
search for gold, they were almost equally dangerous members of
the comnmnity. If unsuccessful, they were moody and discon-
tented, fit and ready for any new and desperate enterprise : if
fortunate, the excesses of warm youthful constitutions, the

PROPER FORM OF GOVERNMENT NEEDED. 135

gaming table, women and drink, were certain to produce a pro-
lific crop of vice, crime and all social disorders. Without family
ties, without the restraining and softening charms of home and
modest female society, the strange mixed population of California
at this time was like the dormant volcano, which at some unex-
pected moment may break forth and devastate all within its in-
fluence. Or it may be compared to the swelling flood of a mighty
river which threatens every instant to overleap or burst its banks,
and overwhelm the great country through which it rolls, and
which, when the stream is confined within proper limits, it only
fertihzes and enriches. The good sense of the community, and
the speedy establishment of a legal constitution could alone save
California from the threatened manifold evils of its heterogeneous
population, and direct its immense and wavering energies into
the best and most profitable channels for their reception.

Tlie cooler and more intelligent settlers in California early
foresaw the urgent necessity of a regular constitution being adopt-
ed. The provisional government subsisting since the conquest of
1847 was but a make-shift at the best ; fit perhaps to regulate
the concerns of such a hmited community as then inhabited
Calif(jrnia, but by no means able to satisfy the wants of the great,
growing and dangerous population which now so strangely and
suddenly had arisen. Probably, Congress, at a distance, was not
sufliciently alive to the pressing need of adequate measures being
instantly taken to remedy the alarming state of things described,
by means of a formal territorial government. At any rate, the
most honest, intelligent and influential inhabitants of California
believed that they could wait no longer the slow movements of
Congress, and conceived that their own social safety would be
best consulted by at once improvising governments of their own.
Accordingly, attempts were soon severally made, by the people of
San Francisco, Sonoma and Sacramento, to form legislatures for
themselves, which they invested with supreme authority. Other
portions of the countiy prepared to follow the example of the
places named. It was quickly found, however, that these indepen-
dent legislatures threatened occasionally to come into colhsion
with each other, while the existence in a limited country of so
many difierent supreme courts, each governed by its own maxims

136 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

and principles of procedure, betrayed an anomalous state of things
too uncertain and unsatisfactory to be longer patiently borne. A
general feelin"- therefore became evident that the sooner such partial
legishition was put a stop to the better for the country ; and that
nothing less than a general constitution and complete civil gov-
ernment would be held satisfactory by the people.

Great meetings for these purposes were held at San Jose, San
Francisco, Monterey, Sonoma, and other places, in the months of
December and January, 1848-49. It was there resolved that such
a civil organization was expedient, and that delegates should be
chosen by popular election, from each district of the country, who
should afterwards assemble at San Jose, though the place of
'meeting was subsequently changed to Monterey. The period of
meeting was first fixed for the 8th of January, then extended to
the 5th of March, next to the 1st of May, and finally, in order
to give ample time to every district to make the necessary arrange-
ments, to the first Monday in August. The delegates to meet at
this convention were to frame the constitution desired. The
resolutions adopted at these primary meetings were forwarded
to and exchanged between the principal districts and towns of
the country for their consideration and approval ; by which places
they were unanimously approved of. These initiatory movements
were not dictated by political faction ; but were the true and
honest result of popular feeling on the subject. There were no
partisans in the matter, where there was only one great party, and
that included the whole thinking population.

While the people of California were thus working out for them-
selves the great problem of a State constitution, the military
governor. General Riley, thought fit to interfere. On the 3d of
June, 1849, he issued a proclamation, in which was fairly enough
stated the anomalous and unsatisfactorj'^ position of the country,
both in its local and general governments ; and he thereupon
ordained the inhabitants in certain specified districts to return
delegates to a convention, which would meet at Monterey on the
Ist of September, to frame a State Constitution, and which
should afterwards be submitted to the people for their approval.
In the same proclamation he likewise made provision for the
election of certain district officials to complete the temporary

DELEGATES TO ADOPT A CONSTITUTION.

137

local organization. The people in many parts of the country con-
sidered the interference of the military authority to be unnecessary
as it was uncalled for. As, however, matters could not be im-
proved, the different districts were content to adopt the provisions
of General Riley's proclamation, and chose their delegates accord-
ingly.

These delegates were forty-eight in number, and while they
nominally re j) resented only different parts of California, they
might have been taken as a fair representation of every State in
the Union. They likewise included natives of various European
countries. They were chiefly men of comparatively youthful years,
many of them not much accustomed, at least of late, to the study
of those abstract questions which might have been anticipated
in devising the constitution of a State. But they were all fully
impressed with the importance of their trust, and determined to
do their duty in the best manner possible. Among the number
were individuals of high talents, whose wisdom, despatch and
aptitude for legislation were eminently displayed. As these del-
egates cannot be too well known, we give the following list of
their names, and the districts they represented : —

San Diego.

Miguel de Pedrorena,
Heury Hill.

Zios Angeles.

Stephen C. Foster,
Jose Antonio Carillo,
Hugo Reid,
Mauuel Domiaguez,
Abel Stearns.

Santa Barbara.

Pablo de la Guerra,
Jacinto Rodriguez.

San Luis Obispo.

Henr_v A Tefft,
Jose M. CovaiTubias.

Monterey.

Henry W. Hal leek,
Thomas O. Larkin,

Charles T. Botts,
Pacificus Ord,
Lewis T. Dent.

San Jose.

Joseph Aram,
Kimball H. Dimmick,
J. D. Hoppe,
Antonio M. Pico,
Elam Brown,
Julian Hanks,
Pedro Sansevani.

Sonoma.

Joel P. Walker,
Robert Semple,
Mariano G. Vallejo.

San Francisco.

Edward Gilbert,
Myron Norton,
William M. Gwin,
Joseph Hobson,

William M. Stewart,
Francis J. Lippitt,
A. J. Ellis,
Rodman M. Price.

San Joaquin.

Thomas Lloyd Vermeule,

0. M. Wozencroft,

B. F. Moore,

J. M. H. Hollingsworth,

J. M. Jones,

Benjamin S. Lippincott.

Sacramento.

Jacob R. Snyder,
Winfield S. Sherwood,
L. W. Hastings,
John MeDougal,
William E. Sliannon,
John A. Sutter,
Elisha 0. Crosby,
M. M. McCarver.

138

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

Monterey,

The delegates, at their first regular meeting on the 4th of
September, chose, by a large majority of votes, Dr. Robert Scrapie
as president of the convention ; Captain William Gr. Marcy was
then appointed secretary, and the other necessary offices were
properly filled up. The house in which the delegates met was a
large handsome two-story stone erection, called " Colton Hall,"
and was perhaps the best fitted for their purposes of any building
in the country.

Without narrating the particular incidents and debates that
occurred among the delegates, it may be sufficient to say, that,
after rather more than a month's constant labor and discussion,
the existing constitution of California was drafted and finally
adopted by the convention. This noble document was formed
after the model of the most approved State constitutions of the
Union, and was framed in strict accordance with the most liberal
and independent opinions of the age. Some indeed of its pro-
visions may be open to cavil, as for instance, whether the judges
— supreme ones particularly — should be chosen by direct election
of the people, and for only a limited period, and whether the
free descendants of the black and red races should be excluded
from the rights of sufi'rage and election. But, taking it as a
whole, the constitution, which is essentially democratic in its

STATE CONSTITUTION ADOPTED. 139

nature, must certainly be pronounced, in its declaration of rights
and the various divisions regulating the election, powers and
duties of the legislative, executive and judicial departments, as well
as the portion respecting education, a wonderful advance and im-
provement in the modern art of government. Among other things,
it expressly rejected slavery and " involuntary servitude," and
declared the right of women to hold as their own separate pro-
perty after marri«,ge, the estates, both real and personal, which
they possessed before it, or which they might afterwards acquire
by gift, devise or descent. But it is unnecessary in our narrow
limits to dwell on the peculiar features of this celebrated consti-
tution. We refer our readers to the document itself, which should
be in the hands of every Californian. It will bear keen criticism,
and merits the close study of statesmen of every country.

On thu 13th of October, the delegates signed the precious
instrument ; and so finished the labors they were appointed to
perform. While the signatures were being affixed, shot after shot
slowly boomed from the guns of the fort in honor of the Union,
and as the thiyty -first and last was heard, which was a little louder,
the listeners thought, than those that had gone before, the sup-
pressed feelings of the people broke forth, and all joyously ex-
claimed — '■ That's for California ! " — and so it was.

Thus was completed the great duty of 1849. From this
time forward, the history of the State demands a separate volume.
In this, we have only aimed at giving a mere sketch of its previ-
ous history, as a proper introduction to the "Annals of San
Francisco." Our next chapter will contain a short account of
the physical geography, and of the commercial, agricultural, pas-
toral and mineral capabiUties of the country, which will conclude
Part First of the present work.

CHAPTER XII.

Geographical limits of Upper Califbrnia.— General description of the country.— Two great divisions
of the northern part of the State. — Fertility of the soil.— Peculiarities of the climate.— Two
seasons: wet and dry.— Products of the country. — Fogs and winds on the coast.- The harhors.
— Country west of the Sierra Nevada. — The Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, and their val-
leys. — This region of country abounds in timber. — Excessive heat in the dry season. — fiocalities
of the chief gold placers. — Immense size of trees. — Silver, lead, copper and coal mines. — Advan-
tages to the immigrant.

In the " Constitution," the boundary of the State of California
is declared to be as follows : —

" Commencing at the point of intersection of the 42d degree
of north latitude with the 120th degree of longitude west from
Greenwich, and running south on the line of said 120th degree
of west longitude, until it intersects the 39th degree of north
latitude ; thence running in a straight line in a south-easterly
direction to the RiverColorado, at a point where it intersects the
35th degree of north latitude ; thence down the middle of the
channel of said river, to the boundary line between the United
States and Mexico, as established by the treaty of May 30th,
1848 ; thence running west, and along said bouodary line to the
Pacific Ocean, and extending thereon three English miles ;
thence running in a north-westerly direction, and following the
direction of the Pacific coast to the 42d degree of north lati-
tude ; thence on the line of said 42d degree of north latitude
to the place of beginning. Also, all the islands, harbors and
bays, along and adjacent to the Pacific coast."

Within the above limits, California extends, from south-east
to north-west, nearly seven hundred and fifty English miles in
length, and, in average breadth, from east to west, about two
humlred and fifty. Its superficies, therefore, may be estimated
at about 187,500 square miles, or nearly twice the size of Great
Britain. The south-eastern part of the country, excepting a

GENERAL DESCRIPTIOX OF THE COUNTRY, 141

narrow belt along the coast, has not yet been explored, and little
is known of its character. A great chain of mountains, called
by the Spaniards the Sierra Nevada, or Snowy Range, runs
nearly through the centre of the southern district. Farther
north, this mountain range, which has a probable average height
of from eight to ten thousand feet above the sea level, though
many of its parts rise much higher, and are covered with perpe-
tual snow, becomes the eastern boundary of the State, and at
the extreme northern limit, by various cross ranges, separates it
from the territory of Oregon. Eastward of the Sierra Nevada,
and between it and the territory of Utah, lies the curious and
extensive district called the Great Basin, which has no outlet to
the ocean for its waters. This is a wild countrv that has been
hitherto traversed only in one or two great lines, but never
thoroughly explored, and which does not seem to have been
intended by nature for the abode of any large human population.
To the south of the boundary line is situated the Mexican
province of Old or Lower California. The Pacific Ocean forms
the western limit of the State.

The northern portion of California, to the extent of three
fourths of the whole country, naturally falls into two great divi-
sions. One lies on the east, and stretches over the whole of the
space mentioned from south to north, comprehending the valleys
of the San Joaquin in the south and the Sacramento in the north,
together with all the lateral valleys and foothills from the sum-
mit elevation of the Sierra Nevada, and extending westward to
the watershed that separates the streams which flow into the
San Joaquin and Sacramento from those which either flow di-
rectly into the Pacific, or into the Bay of San Francisco. The
other great division includes the whole country drained by the
last named streams ; and may also be allowed to embrace the
country farther to the south, likewise drained by streams which
disembogue directly into the Pacific. As already stated, the
extreme south-eastern part of the country supposed to be watered
by streams which empty themselves into the Rio Colorado, has
not been fully explored, and no proper description can therefore
be given of it.

The missions, of which a particular account has been given in

142 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

preceding chapters, were located in the second mentioned division
of country, and excepting only two lying on the northern side
of tlie Bay of San Francisco, were all situated to the south of
the entrance to tliat inlet. A multitude of pleasant, fertile
valleys extend from the coast inland a length of from twenty to
forty miles ; and every main valley, of any extent, had its mis-
si(tn. The hills in this division seldom exceed two thousand feer
in height. The whole country is exceedingly diversified and
beautiful, and has hitherto been almost wholly devoted to the
fn-azin<^ of innumerable herds of cattle and horses, and also of
large flocks of sheep. The tables and statements already given
of the possessions of the Fathers in domestic cattle and farm
produce, may serve in some measure to show the astonishing fer-
tility of the soil, and its capabilities to support a large popula-
tion, as well as the comj)arative value of different districts.
These tables and statements, however, by no means exhibit the
extent of cultivated land. Very far from that. Much of the
mission property was neglected, and most of it never turned to
the best use of which it was capable. The fertility of the soil
indeed is so great, and the genial warmth and general climate so
l)ropitious to agriculture, that corn crops and all kinds of grasses,
fruits and vegetables show such an increase as if thej^ had been
planted in a hot-bed, and manured and watered by rule to the
best advantage.

The climate of this division of the country varies consider-
al)ly, as it might be expected to do when it is considered that the
land extends over nearly ten degrees of latitude ; but still more
it varies from the circumstance of the various districts being more
oi- less subject to particular fogs and winds which prevail along
the coast. Towards the extreme south, the fogs and winds al-
luded to are not felt ; but north of Point Conception, about
latitude 34" 30', all the coast, extending from half a dozen to a
dozen miles inland, is peculiarly exposed to cold, penetrating-
winds, blowing from the north, north-west and west, and thick
wet fogs, which, especially in the summer season, are remarkably
disagreeable. These fogs, however, serve one good purpose, as
they sup[)ly abundant moisture to the crops and herbage, which
niigiit otherwise fail for the want of occasional rains in the sum-

PRODUCTS OF THE COUNTRY. 143

mer. Properly speaking, there is neither winter nor summer ;
hut the months comprehended under these terms are here called
the rainy and the dry seasons. This is the case over the whole
country. The rains usually begin about the middle of Novem-
ber, and continue with short occasional dry intervals, (the most
charming periods indeed of the year, when the air is balmy, the
surface of the earth green and fresh, and all nature, animates and
inanimate, rejoices in a holiday.) till the month of May. During
the remainder of the year, commonly no rain falls ; but its place
is sui)plied along the coast by copious dews and the wet fogs we
have alluded to.

The heat in the division of country now before us is never
excessive. Below Point Conception, it may be said that eternal
summer reigns ; and the same high character may be given to
all north of that point, which is situated a few miles inland, and
not immediately exposed to the piercing winds and fogs of the
coast. The atmosphere in these regions is ever mild and agree-
able. The temperature is never too high to prevent active exercise
out of doors, nor too low to need fires in the houses. There is
not much great timber, nor indeed wood of any kind, but the
undulating fields teem with rich natural grasses and an exube-
rance of wild flowers and flowering shrubs. Whole districts are
covered with natural oats, which supply provender to innumer-
able tame and wild creatures, when the herbage is drv, or has
partially disappeared in the heat of summer. The climate is
also remarkably salubrious ; while as if to heap upon this happy
laud all natural blessings, the fecundity of its living creatures, —
human beings as well as the lower animals, — far exceeds what
generally occurs elsewhere. The grajje, the fig, the orange and
the olive grow luxuriantly in these regions, and so too do all
other sorts of semi-tropical produce. All varieties of European
fruits thrive in great plenty : plums, cherries, peaches, apricots,
melons, pomegranates, pears, apples, &c. In the more southern
parts, the plantain and banana likewise ripen. AYheat, barley
and maize, potatoes, cabbages, turnips and every other kind of
vegetable for the table, grow to the utmost perfection, and yield
a return the hke of which can scarcely be paralleled in any other
country. It is believed also that the climate, in particular dis-

144 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

tricts, is admirably adapted for the profitable culture of tobacco,
cotton and sugar. In short, there is no vegetable production of
any value raised in the temperate zone, and very few peculiar to
the torrid, which may not be cultivated to perfection in these
finer parts of California.

We have alluded to the prevailing winds and fogs of the
coast. These render navigation near the shore dangerous at
times, and are themselves very unpleasant to the new comer. It
must be admitted that they are some drawback to the otherwise
unmingled beauty and agreeableness of the climate, 'However,
in the summer season, when these fogs generally prevail, they
usually clear off by noon, leaving the rest of the day with a
bright and warm sky. The settler soon gets used to them ;
while, knowing the important part which the fogs play in drop-
ping fatness on the dry earth, he readily learns even to welcome
their presence.

There are several excellent harbors along the coast, the chief
of which is, of course, the incomparable Bay of San Francisco.
San Diego, however, at the extreme south, has likewise an ad-
mirable port ; while the havens, or roadsteads of Monterey and
Santa Barbara, sheltered from all but certain unusual winds, are
by no means despicable, but may match with good reputed har-
bors of many another country. Besides these, there are several
other fiiir anchorage grounds and partially sheltered roadsteads
along the coast, of less note ; while north of ths Bay of San
Francisco there are some bays which form excellent occasional
harbors of refuge, if not first-rate ports. The Bay of San Fran-
cisco itself is so extensive, while the country surrounding it is so
fertile, and will one day become so populous, that many more
harbors than the one at the city of that name, will hereafter be
formed in this moderate sized inland sea. There is ample depth
of water around its shores, and sheltered coves enough for the
fomiation of several other harbors, which may almost rival that
of the City of San Francisco itself.

The other great division of the country, that lying east of
the one just dwelt upon, and west of the Sierra Nevada, has
been less thoroughly examined than the coast district, and not
so often described ; yet enough of it is known to show that it is

SAN JOAQUIN AND SACRAMENTO VALLEYS. 145

capable of supporting a vast immigrating population in comfort
and plenty. This division comprehends the great valleys of the
Sacramento and San Joaquin, with all the smaller side valleys
running into them. The Sacramento takes its rise near the
extreme northern limit of the State, in the neighborhood of
Mount Shasta, which is 14,400 feet in height above the sea level.
From thence it flows, in a southerly direction, for nearly three
hundred miles, carrj'ing off the waters of numerous streams on
both sides till it receives those of the San Joaquin, which have
come to meet it from the south-east, for nearly two hundred
miles. The united streams then run westward a further distance
of sixty or seventy miles, through various arms of the Bay of
San Francisco, till they rush through the " Golden Gate," to
bury themselves in the Pacific. The Sacramento has already
been na\dgated by steamers for one hundred miles above its
junction with the San Joaquin, while the latter has been navi-
gated by the same class of vessels, above the point mentioned for
seventy miles.

The great longitudinal valley of these rivers contains an
exceedingly fertile soil, fitted to grow any kind of grain, fruits
and edible roots. There is much timber in various parts of this
great region. Many varieties of the pine tribe are common, most
of which grow to an enormous size. But besides pines, the oak
especially abounds, as also elm, ash, beech, birch, plane and other
kinds of trees. The native fruit trees are not numerous. The
number and variety of indigenous herbs are very great. As
besides the pines which yield tar and resin, and every size of
spar and good timber for shij)-building, it is found that hemp
and flax grow wild, and thrive exceedingly well in the country,
it will be seen that this region contains most of the material
elements to make Cahfornia a great maritime nation. It was in
the vaUey of the Sacramento that a large number of Ameiican
immigrants had settled previous to the discovery of gold. Por-
tions of the lower districts of both it and the San Joaquin valley
are Hable to be overflowed by floods which sometimes swell the
rivers to a great depth, when storms and meltings of the snow
on the Sierra Nevada suddenly gorge all the mountain torrents.
At other times, after a long track of dry weather, imgation
10

14(> ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO,

would almost seem to be indispensable for profitable farming in
several districts ; although this, as yet, is considered to be by
no means certain. The cold winds and moist fogs of the coast
are sometimes wanted in this division, as well to water the
parched earth, as to temper the excessive heat of the solar rays,
retlectcd from the sides of the hills in the narrower valleys, and
concentrated every where to a high degree. In the great longi-
tudinal valley, and still more in the smaller cross valleys which
lie between the former and the Sierra Nevada, the heat in
summer is sometimes very dreadful — rising frequently, and that
too, day after day, for months together, to 100° and 110° of
Fahrenheit. Still, notwithstanding these drawbacks, the soil i&
so rich and productive, and the climate so extremely dry and
healthy, that there is every reason to believe these districts will
soon be largely inhabited by an agricultural population. In
some parts of the valley of the San Joaquin which are liable
to be overflowed by the river floods, it is believed that rice may
be profitably cultivated. Meanwhile, there is abundance of deer
and smaller game in the forests and plains ; the streams and
lakes absolutely swarm with the most delicious fish ; while
geese, ducks, and other wild fowl are exceedingly plentiful.

It is in the cross valleys running up to the summit elevation
of the Sierra Nevada that the chief gold placers are situated.
The whole country in this quarter, for a length of at least five
hundred miles, and an average breadth of perhaps thirty or forty,
is highly auriferous. The loose bed of every stream particularly,
but also the dry sandy soil of most of the intervening plains,
uplands and hills, contains particles of gold ; while even the deep
seated rocks in many parts are impregnated with the precious
metal, and are beginning to be wrought in a scientific manner
for its extraction. If some small portion of the auriferous
district may already seem to be almost exhausted, yet its whole
extent is so great, and so many parts are yet untouched, while
all, by the aid of proper scientific appliances, can be made still
to render a bountiful reward to the miner, that it may be truly
said, generations must pass before the Cahfornian gold regions
can be emptied of their treasures, or cease to be profitably
wrought. This may be more particularly said of the gold-bear-

)

IMMENSE SIZE OF TREES. 147

ing quartz rocks and veins, wbich in many places are exceed-
ingly numerous and rich.

Nature, as if content to scatter her bounties in this quarter
beneath the surface, has not also gifted the soil with exceeding
fertility, although there are many beautiful and fertile small
spots to be found in the district. In the months of April and
May, these places bloom and smell like a well tended garden,
from the variety, beauty and perfume of their wild flowers. The
mineral riches make it less desirable that these districts should
also possess a rich and prolific soil. Still it is in this quarter
that those enormous trees chiefly grow which amaze and almost
terrify by their prodigious height and bulk, those who have been
only used to the puny forests of less favored climes. A common
enough height for these trees is three hundred feet, while an
equally common diameter may range from fifteen to twenty feet.
Many, however, have been found of much larger dimensions.
The forests on the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada wall give
an inexhaustible supply of timber for household and most other
purposes to which wood is applied in the country.

Besides the gold mines on the west skirts of the Snowy Moun-
tains, there are several others scattered over California ; while
many other mineral treasures are to be found. There is a valu-
able mine of quicksilver near San Jose, and many silver, and
silver and lead mines, as well as others of copper and lead are
already known in various parts of the country. However, the
population up to the time of the rush to the gold regions was
too small, and the capital and energy of the owners too limited,
to permit these and similar mines to be wrought to advantage.
Coal has been discovered in some parts as well as iron. There
is excellent stone for building purposes to be had in various
places. Sulphur, asphalte and many other valuable mineral
substances are also ascertained to exist in different localities.
The mineral wealth of the country indeed, though not fully
examined, is believed to be far more extensive than what has
hitherto appeared, however great it may seem in these times.

To the immigrant from an old settled land, where competi-
tion exists in severity, and the means of a bare subsistence are
not easily to be had, California offers every inducement to draw

148 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

him to her country. Here is political and social freedom — a
beautiful, pleasant, and healthy climate — a soil rich, and fertile,
producing every necessary, and most of the luxuries of life —
rivers and bays, abounding with deUcious fish ; forests and fields,
with game of every species — mineral regions, where fortunes
may be made on a sudden, and, at all events, where the indus-
trious laborer is sure to provide a moderate competency for him-
self, in a wonderfully short space of time. Here are towns start-
ing yearly, nay, almost weekly, into existence, whose inhabitants
are full of life, energy and hope, determined and certain to
prosper; great cities and ports, swelling into magnificence before
one's eyes, destined ere long to bear sway over the broad Pacific,
by reason of their natural position, their wealth, energy and
power. Here labor is honorable, and meets an ample reward ;
and, here, while the most unbounded ambition, in mining and
agricultural, commercial and political pursuits, may gratify its
most daring inner wishes, and the patriotic enthusiast foresee
a glorious future to this, his adopted country, the peaceful, retir-
ing and contented settler may select a quiet, sunny, cheerful
spot for his abode, and beneath unclouded skies and through
perpetual summer, among vines, and fig-trees, and flowers, and
all bright and pleasant things, pass life happily away.

PART SECOND.

CHAPTEE I.

Description of the Golden Gate.— Origin of the name.— The Bays of San Francisco, San Pablo, and
Suisun.— Eivers emptying into Suisun Bay. — Description of the adjacent country, — Indian tra-
dition. — Eemarkablo fertility of the soil. — Farm produce and mode of farming.— Location of the
City of San Francisco. — The name Terba Bnena. — The first house built. — Disadvantages of the
locality. — No provision made for desirable public squares or parks.

The mid-entrance to the Bay of San Francisco lies in latitude
37° 48' K, and longitude 122= 30' W., from Greenwich. This
is a strait, running nearly north-east, called Chrysopalce, of the
Golden Gate, about five miles long, and of an average breadth
of one and a half or two miles. The name " Golden Gate " first
appears in the " Geographical Memoir of CaHfornia," and rela-
tive map, published by Col. Fremont in the spring of 1848.
The term was descriptive, not of the literal golden regions
within, then as yet undiscovered, but merely of the rich and fer-
tile country which surrounded the shores of the bay, and of the
wealth which the commerce of the Pacific, passing through the
strait, would certainly give to the future great city of the place.
The name was probably suggested by the Golden Horn of Con-
stantinople. Since the discovery of the auriferous character of
the country, the title has become of a still more happy nature ;
and its bestower must surely have had a prophetic soul, though
he himself knew it not. At the narrowest point of the strait,
where it is little more than a mile wide, the Spaniards had
erected a small fort for the protection of the neighboring mission.
This building is now in course of removal, to be speedily replaced

150 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

(let US hope) by a larger and stronger fortress for the adequate
defence of the bay. The southern point of land, on the side' of
the ocean, is called in the Spanish language, Punta de los Lohos
(Wolves' Point), and the northern, Punta Bonita (Pretty Point).
A few small rocks, at all times quite visible, lie about the en-
trance, and along the coast of the strait ; but the channel other-
wise is very deep and free from obstruction. About twenty or
thirty miles off the coast, and in a westerly direction from the
Golden Gate, lie certain small rocky islands, called the Farra-
lones, once favorite places for hunting seals and sea-otters by the
Russians, and upon which that people had a small permanent
settlement. Ujion these islands the creatures mentioned are
still to be found. A bar lies nearly across the mouth of the
strait, upon which occasionally there is a heavy swell. Formerly
tliis bar ran right across and within the actual Jimits of the
strait, but during the last thirty years it has gradually shifted
two miles farther to seaward, so that it now forms a kind of
arch, altogether outside of the entrance, spanning from point to
point of the strait. In the same period, a bank has likewise ad-
vanced from the south shore. By these natural operations the
entrance channel to the bay has been much improved. On this
subject it may be stated that all the shores in the mouth of the
bay are liable to be washed off every year, by the combined
strength of the wind, tides, local currents, and floods. In the
great freshets of the spring of 1825 more than fifty yards of land
were swept away to the westward of the fort.

The depth of water on the bar at low tide is considerable
enough to permit the largest ship of war to safely cross it. The
strait itself has a dej)th varying from five or sis to sixteen
fathoms and upwards. The shores are bold and rocky, and in
some parts precipitous, swelling on the north side into mountains
of upwards of two thousand feet in height. The hills on the
southern side are more of a sandy nature, and may be only three
hundred or four hundred feet high. On both sides they are
quite bare and barren. The strong winds and heavy fogs which
constantly assail them, and their own sandy or rocky nature,
have effectually prevented trees or luxuriant vegetation of any
kind from growing. On the very summit, however, of the moun-

DESCRIPTION OF THE CxOLDEX GATE.

151

tains on the northern side of the strait, there happens to be a
solitary group of red-wood trees, whose tall forms make a striking
landmark to the mariner at sea. As he approaches the strait
from the south, the voyager has seldom perhaps seen so dismal a
looking place. A midtitude of low, bleak sand hills on the sea
shore, often swept over by flying clouds of dense mist, first greet

Entrance to the Golden Gate.

his eyes. On passing gradually through tlie Golden Gate, how-
ever, the interior coasts begin sensibly to improve upon him.
The hills assume a more even character, which, as well as the
beautiful islands that stud the bay, are at certain seasons of the
year covered with vegetation, presenting a truly pleasing ajipear-
ance.

The tidal stream rushes throu<rh the a;ate in mid-channel
generally about six knots an hour. Along the projecting por-
tions of the strait there are numerous eddies. By taking advan-
tage of this great tidal speed, and of particular winds, which can

X52 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

almost daily be depended upon, blowing either in or out of the
channel at certain periods of the day, ships may always safely
enter or depart from the bay at all times of the year. An occa-
sional wreck, where ships may have been driven by the strength
of the tide or local currents upon the rocky shores, has indeed
taken place ; but this has generally been traceable to the igno-
rance or carelessness of the pilot. Hitherto that class of men,
as might have been anticipated, have not been all picked indi-
viduals ; and some of them may not have had sufficient time to
study the peculiarities of the channel. It may, however, be con-
fidently asserted, that there are very few harbors in the world
where the entrance and departure are so easy and safe as those
of the one of San Francisco. To talk of it in the same breath
with such difficult and dangerous ocean ports as those of Liver-
pool and New York, or the river ones of London and New Or-
leans, is simply ridiculous.

After passing the strait, the great Bay of San Francisco sud-
denly opens up. This bay lies almost at right angles to the en-
trance just described ; and extends from north to south nearly
seventy miles, with an average breadth of about ten or twelve.
The southern division, comprehending about two-thirds of the
entire length, chiefly lies south of the entrance, and is more pro-
perly styled the Bay of San Francisco ; although the whole
body of inland waters, when spoken of in a general sense, is
commonly understood by that phrase. The northern division,
which is in some degree topographically separated from the other
by narrows and several small islands about the eastern end of
the strait, is known by the name of the Bay of San Pablo. At
the eastern extremity of the last named bay, the waters contract
into the Strait of Carquinez. Still more to the east, they again
widen into Suisun Bay, into which, through various channels,
called the Slough, a sort of delta much overrun with large trees
and jungle, the mingled streams of the Sacramento and San
Joa(|uin, enter and lose themselves. From the ocean to the
north-east corner of Suisun Bay, following the line of mid-chan-
nel, there may be a distance of between fifty and sixty miles.
The largest ships may sail as far as the city of Benicia, originally
called Francisca, situated on the north side of the Strait of Car-

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY,

153

quinez, where the channel is little more than a mile wide, and
at which place are a government dock-yard and naval stores.
Ahove that point, the water is at parts scarcely deep enough to
allow vessels of great burden to proceed, while the channels of
the Sacramento, through the delta, or slough, are intricate, and
encumbered with shifting shoals and sand-banks.

The Golden Gata

Around the northern shores of the Bays of San Pablo and
Suisun lies a very fertile and beautiful country, watered by
streams, severally called the Suisun Eiver, Napa, Sonoma, and
Petaluma Creeks. The valleys of these rivers will in a few years
be the residence of a great .number of agricultural settlers, while
already numerous small towns are beginning to be established
among them. But the Sacramento and its greater tributaries,
the Puta Creek, and the American, Feather and Butte Rivers,
and the San Joaquin, with its leading feeders, the Mokelumne,
Calaveras, Stanislaus, and Tuolumne Rivers, are the great high-
ways of communication between the interior country and the
ocean ; and in the extensive, beautifid, and most fertile districts
drained by them will be located hereafter the abodes of many
millions of human beino's. In the vallev of the Sacramento and

154 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

its offshoots are situated the great city of that name, and the
thriving towns of Marysville and Nevada. In the valley of the
San Joaquin, or in the connecting valley, are the considerable
and o-rowin": towns of Stockton and Sonora. Besides these
places, there are numerous other towns beginning to be established
in this great district.

South of San Pablo and Suisun Bays, and east of the Bay
of San Francisco proper, lies the district of country called Contra
Costa. This quarter is very mountainous, some of the summits
being upwards of three thousand feet high. One of them, Monte
Diablo, is three thousand seven hundred and seventy feet in
heio-ht. On the west, however, between the mountains and the
Bay of San Francisco, is a considerable tract of level land which,
like nearly all of a similar description in the country, is exceed-
ingly rich and productive.

On the opposite side of the bay, and between it and the
ocean, lies the long peninsula called the District of San Fran-
cisco. This strip of land is upwards of thirty miles long, with
an average breadth of perhaps twelve or sixteen. The side im-
mediately next the ocean is cold and barren. In the interior,
and towards the bay, it possesses a mild climate, and is of great
fertility. The surface is irregular and hilly ; but the many small
glens are green to the top, covered with luxuriant herbage, on
which feed many thousands of sheep and cattle. The northern
portion of this district is generally bare of trees and the larger
shrubs ; but much heavy timber grows in the middle and south-
ern parts. At the southern extremity of the bay lies an exten-
sive tract of land, which may be considered the choicest portion
of all the country we have been describing. Here, near the
mouth of the valley, w^atered by the Kiver Guadalupe, are situ-
ated the towns of San Jose and Santa Clara. The beauty and
salubrity of this district, its mild and agreeable climate, and ex-
ceeding productiveness, make it especially the granary, orchard
and garden of the City of San Francisco and surrounding parts.

We may observe here, that there is a tradition among the
Indians of California, that San Francisco Bay originally formed
a fresh water lake. An earthquake, however, suddenly opened
the hne of mountains along the coast, when the sea rushed in,

FERTILITY OF THE SOIL.

155

and cliano-ed the res-ion to what it now is. The surplus fresh
waters of the old lake were supposed to have been discharged
into the Bay of Monterey, by a great river flowing through the
valley of San Jos6 and Santa Clara. This river was beheved to
pass near the Mission of San Juan, and to fall into the present
stream of the Pajaro.

^Sli

City of Stockton.

In the fertile districts of country all around the shores of the
bay the average productiveness of the soil is exceedingly great, far
beyond the usual return from tillage lands in most other countries
of the temperate zone, and rivalling, in fact, those of the torrid
zone itself A common yield from sown wheat is from seventy to
eighty fold, though it is said to run often as high as one hundred
and upwards. A moderate average may be taken at fifty fold.
Maize occasionally gives a return of one hundred and fifty fold ;
while if it produces less than one hundred, it is scarcely consider-
ed worthy of notice. It may be remarked that the seed in gen-
eral is much less thickly sown than in most other countries ; and,
naturally, therefore, having space to spread and fructify, there is a
greater corresponding increase. Potatoes have been found of the
enormous weight of seven and eight pounds, while those of two
and three pounds are quite common. The usual yield of potatoes is

156 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

from two to three hundred sacks an acre. And such potatoes ! In no
part of the world are there larger, finer, firmer and healthier roots
o-rown. Newly-come immigrants and casual visitors are invariably
full of raptures at the sight of such magnificent earth apples. The
cabbages, again, are absolute monsters in size, often from fifteen
to twenty inches in diameter ; and as good in quality as enormous
in bulk. Carrots often grow nearly a yard in length, and are of
corresponding gii'th. Turnips, beets, radishes, onions, and indeed
every kind of edible root and table vegetable grows equally large,
and of the best and most wholesome description. Cahfornia is
indeed celebrated for its garden and field productions. The ber-
ries and fruits of the vineyard and orchard show a corresponding
increase, and are of the most excellent kind. Long ago it had
been imagined by hasty travellers and writers, that California had
only an arid, sterile soil, never adapted to the successful pursuit
of agriculture. On the contrary, the country is exceedingly well
watered, the soil is naturally rich, and the difi'used warmth and
geniality of the climate is such as to force to safe maturity an
abundant harvest of all kinds. Of course, manure in the present
stage of California, is out of the question. The teeming fields
will not require it for a generation or two, if ever. The present
practice is simply to break fresh ground every year ; and until the
agricultural settlers become much more numerous, there will be
abundance of land for such a mode of farming. There is no need
of farm buildings to house and stock the grain for shelter. The
cHmate is so dry in the harvest season that the crops are never
spoiled by wet ; but the ears are just threshed out on the fields
where they grow. Farming operations formerly were of a very
rude nature, as they still generally are, though the soil shows so
large a return. When an improved method of husbandry is adopt-
ed, the yield will be correspondingly great. A slight wooden
shed, open upon one side to the weather, and merely covered with
canvas or scantling, affords quite a sufficient shelter, summer,
and winter, to milch cows and the most delicate trained horses.

From the previous description of the districts surrounding the
inland waters known by the general name of the Bay of San Fran-
cisco, it will be noticed that their respective productions, seen to
be 80 great, can best be interchanged across that bay ; and that

DESCKIPTION OF YERBA BUENA. 157

their only communication with the ocean is through the Golden
Gate. Conveniently placed as nearly as possible to this gate lies
the city of San Francisco, in latitude 37° 48' N. and longitude
122° 25' W. from Greenwich. It is situated on the north-east
corner of the peninsula already mentioned, about a mile south of
the eastern end of the general entrance to the bay, and is distant
about six miles from the ocean. The situation happens to be
about the most barren part of the district ; and the immediate
Aacinity consists chiefly of low sand-hills, covered with coarse shrubs
and scattered patches of grass. The name of the Spanish village
which originally stood on a portion of the site of the present city
was Yerba Buena — good herb. In some maps of the country it
was designated as San Francisco ; but locally it was only known
by the name we have mentioned. Yerba Buena signifies also the
herb mint, great quantities of which grew about the spot, and
from that circumstance no doubt the name of the place is derived.

An island, lying in the bay about two miles east of the city
likewise bears the name of Yerba Buena, where the herb mention-
ed grows abundantly. Probably this island first bore the name
which later was given to the cove lying between it and the main
land ; and subsequently it was extended to the plain and village
surrounding the beach. But the name mentioned was descriptive
l)oth of the island and the shore itself, since on both grew the
yerba buena. This herb grows through the underwood in form
of a vine, some feet long. The leaves are six inches apart, each
directly opposite another. It is very fragrant, and is used to make
a tea or alterative medicinal drink, though its frequent use is said
to debilitate the system. The name of so insignificant an herb
for the rising city being perhaps judged not sufiiciently imposing,
it was changed into San Francisco- in January, 1847, by an
ordinance of the then alcalde of the place, and under this last
designation it has been alone known to the world at large.

The viUage of Yerba Buena was situated in the small cove of
that name, which extended little more than half a mile between
Clark's Point (so named by Captain J. F. Hutton, in 1849),
on the north-west, and the Bincon, or Bincon Point, on the south-
east. The first tenement was constructed in the year 1835, by
Captain W. A. Kichardson, and up to the year 1846, there might

158

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

not bo more than twenty or thirty houses of all descriptions in
the place. The only practicable landing spot for small boats at
low title was at Clark's Point, where there were a few rocks. In
the inside of the cove where the water was shallow, there was an

IsliHid and Cove of Yerba Buena.

extensive flat of mud, laid bare at low water. The rise and fall
<jf ordinary tides was about eight feet. About a quarter of
a mile from the beach, the water deepened to five and six fath-
oms, and continued of the same or of little greater depth the whole
distance to the Island of Yerba Buena opposite. This space now
forms the present harbor and centre of the anchorage ground of
San Francisco. As Yerba Buena began to increase in size and
im2)ortance, the beach and water lots were seen to be of the ut-
most value ; and measures* accordingly were taken, in 1847, and
following years, to extend the village, or town as it might now be
called, over a great portion of the cove. About the same time
the i)resent character of the place began to be formed, which sub-
scfpient years developed into the existing grand plan of the City
of San Francisco.

Rising up from Clark's Point, and between Yerba Buena Cove
and the cove farther to the north-west, now called the North Beach,
is the liigh ground named the Telegraph Hill. West and south

LOCATION OF SAN FRANCISCO. 159

of this hill, in a semicircular direction, lie other connecting high
grounds, hearing the names oi Bussian Hill, Fern Hill, &c. These
hills are ahout three hundred feet high. From the Eincon like-
wise rises a high ground of about from one hundred to one hun-
dred and fifty feet in height, which runs a short distance in a
westerly direction towards the Mission Dolores. Beyond and
south of the ridge alluded to lies j\Iission Bay, and the low ground
bordering Mission Creek. The distance between Telegraph Hill
and the last mentioned ridge, may be about three quarters of a
mile ; while that between the semicircular line of hills on the
west and the advanced line of streets built much within the
limit of ebb tide in Yerba Buena Cove, may be nearly the same.
Upon this limited space stands the most valuable and business
portion of San Francisco, and its most substantial and magnifi-
cent buildings. However, over all the hills, and much of the
country on every side beyond them, the ground has been regular-
ly laid out into building lots, lying upon long straight streets,
crossing each other at right angles ; and many excellent houses,
together with a scattered multitude of an inferior description,
have been erected on them. Indeed the nominal limits of the city
and the building stances, as actually surveyed and mapped out,
at this time, extend from the west side of North Beach to the
south side of Mission Creek, a distance of nearly four miles, in a
straight fine ; and from Eincon Point to the Mission Church, a
distance, likewise, in a direct fine, of upwards of tliree miles.
Over all tliis space, some eight or nine square miles, on height
and in hollow, and upon every degree of elevated site, are sj)read
a variety of detached buildings, built partly of stone and brick,
though principally of wood. But, as we have already stated, the
heart and strength and wealth of the city is contained within the
little level space lying between the hills or rising grounds partic-
ularly mentioned, and the narrow waters of Yerba Buena Cove.
These waters are yearly continuing to be encroached upon as the
cove gets filled up with sand and rubbish, excavated from the
sand-hills and the foundations of the limits behind, and as new
streets and houses, formed on piles, are pushed further out into
the bay. By these operations the old character of the cove has
been completely changed, and at present, instead of the former

IGO ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

semicircle of beach there is almost a straight line of huilding
extendins: across the middle of the cove from the Eincon to Clark's
Point. In many places of what is now the very centre of the
business portion of the city lie large vessels, which in the disas-
trous years of shijjping, 1848 and 1849, got stranded or were used
as store-ships or lodging-houses on the beach. When the exten-
sion of the city towards the waters of the cove took place, these
ships remained where they lay, fast imbedded in mud, while long
streets, hollow beneath, and numerous solid houses arose on every
side, effectually to hem them in for ever.

The deepening water will prevent the city from moving much
farther into the bay, while the steep rising grounds in the rear
will equally prevent it from climbing and spreading over the
sandy, irregular country beyond them. The city will probably
therefore be forced to proceed northward towards the North
Beach, where there is already a long pier formed, but where there
is remaining but limited building room at best. It will also
spread, as it is beginning to do, over the extensive and compara-
tively level tract of ground lying to the south-west, on the banks
of Mission Creek, and in the direction of the JViission Dolores.
Perhaps not many years hence the whole shores at North Beach
and South Beach (Mission Bay), and the bay itself to a consid-
erable distance from the present high- water mark, will be covered
with streets and houses, quays and long piercing piers, just as
now is the cove of Yerba Buena. The existing surveys and
plans of the city, anticipating futurity, already exhibit these
places, both on land and sea, divided and feirly mapped out into
streets and wharves.

Over all these square miles of contemplated thoroughfares,
there seems no provision made by the projectors for a public park
— the true "lungs" of a large city. The existing jplaza, or
Portsmouth Square, and other two or three diminutive squareS;,
delineated on the plan, seem the only breathing-holes intended
for the future population of hundreds of thousands. This is a
strange mistake, and can only be attributed to the jealous ava-
rice of the city projectors in turning every square vara of the
site to an available building lot. Indeed the eye is wearied, and
the imagination quite stupefied, in looking over the numberless

LOCATION OF SAN FRANCISCO. ] 61

square — all square — building blocks, and mathematically straight
lines of streets, miles long, and every one crossing a host of oth-
ers at right angles, stretching over sandy hill, chasm and plain,
without the least regard to the natural inequalities of the ground.
Not only is there no public park or garden, but there is not even
a circus, oval, open terrace, broad avenue, or any ornamental line
of street or building, or verdant space of any kind, other than
the three or four small squares alluded to ; and which every resi-
dent knows are by no means verdant, except in patches where
stagnant water collects and ditch weeds grow.

While the position of San Francisco on the shores of the bay
was undoubtedly the best that could have been selected for mari-
time purposes, there certainly have been sad drawbacks to the
extension of the place on the land side. The want of sufficient
level space on which to found so great and growing a city, has
been partially rectified, at an enormous expense, by taking build-
ing ground from the waters, and by lowering, and in many cases
absolutely removing bodily the multitude of sand hills, by which
the place is immediately surrounded. What with digging out
and filling up, piling, capping and planking, grading and re-
grading the streets, and shifting, and rebuilding, and again re-
building the houses, to suit the altered levels, millions upon mil-
lions of dollars have been spent. This has not been recklessly
or foolishly done, and the present magnificence and business
capabilities of the city are the consequence ; while future years
will still more exliibit the grand result of aU the money that has
been sunk in municipal improvements. It would be out of place
to say more of the present appearance of the city at this portion
of the work ; but a more particular account of it wiU be given
towards the conclusion of " Part Second."

CHAPTER 11.

The Mission and Presidio of San Francisco. — Formation and survey of the village of Terba Bnena.—
Disputes and litigation in regard to Yerba Buena being a Paebli). — Captain Kjchardson the first
Harbor Master. — Visits of national and other vessels to Yerba Buena Cove. — Reasons why the
whale ships ceased to enter the harbor for supplies. — TraflBc between Yerba Buena and foreign
ports. — Hides and tallow the chief exports. — Prices obtained for these. — Heavy rains and their
effects.— Earthquakes. — Unusual drought. — Mr. Jacob P. Leese establishes himself at Yerba Bu-
ena — Celebration of the Fourth of July at Leese's house. — First child bom. — Limits of the origi-
nal survey.

The Mission of San Francisco, as mentioned in the first part of
this work, was founded in the year 1776. It was situated about
two and a half miles to the south-west of the Cove of Yerba
Buena. Besides the mission buildings, there were erected, at the
same time, a presidio and fort, along the margin of the Golden
Gate, the former being distant from the mission about four
miles, and fi"om the cove nearly the same space. The latter was
situated about a mile nearer the ocean than the presidio, close
upon the sea-beach, and on a rocky height at the narrowest point
of the strait.

Before 1835, the village of Yerba Buena had neither name
nor existence. The Mexican Government had some time before
resolved to found a town upon the cove of that name, which was
reputed the best site on the shores of the Bay of San Francisco
for establishing a port. Much discussion and litigation, involving
immense pecuniary interests, have occurred as to the date and
precise character of the foundation of Yerba Buena. It has long
been matter of keen dispute whether the place was what is called
a Spanish or Mexican ^^ pueblo ; " and although, after previous
contrary decisions, it was assumed (not being exactly decided
upon evidence) by the Supreme Court to be a "pueblo," the
subject seems to be still open to challenge. It is unnecessary in
this work to do more than merely allude to the question. In

VISITS OF NATIONAL AND OTHER VESSELS. 163

tlie year last above mentioned, General Figueroa, then governor
of the Californias, passed an ordinance, forbidding the command-
ant of the presidio of San Francisco to make any grants of land
around the Yerba Buena Cove nearer than two hundred varas
(about one hundred and eighty-five yards) from the beach, with-
out a special order from the governor, the excluded portion being
intended to be reserved for government uses. Before any steps
could be taken for the survey and laying out of the proposed
town. General Figueroa died ; and the place was neglected for
some years, and left to proceed as chance and individuals would
have it. There had been previous applications for grants of the
whole land around the cove for professedly farming purposes,
which circumstance led to the governor's passing the temporary
ordinance, lest, some time or another, the portion of ground in-
tended to be reserved should, through accident or neglect, be
granted away.

Captain W. A. Richardson was appointed the first harbor-
master, in the year 1835, and, the same year, he erected the
Jirst house, or description of dwelling, in the place. It was
simply a large tent, supported on four red-wood posts, and cov-
ered with a sliip's foresail. The captain's occupation in those
days seems to have been the management of two schooners, one
belonging to the Mission of San Francisco, and the other to the
Mission of Santa Clara. These schooners were employed in
bringing produce from the various missions and farms around the
bay to the sea-going vessels which lay in Terba Buena Cove.
The amount of freight which the captain received was twelve
cents a hide, and one dollar for each bag of tallow. The tallow
was melted down and run into hide-bags, which averaged five
hundred jjomids each. For grain, the freight was twenty-five
cents a fanega (two and a half English bushels).

Some years before this period, Yerba Buena Cove had been
occasionally approached by various ships of war and other vessels.
For many years, the Russians had continued to pay it annual
visits for supphes of meat and small quantities of grain. One of
their vessels took away annually about one hundred and eighty
or two hundred tons of such provisions. In 1816, the English
sloop of war " Racoon " entered the port ; also, in 1827, the

164 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

" Blossom," of the same nation, on a surveying cruise. In the
last named year, the French frigate " Artemesia/' of sixty guns,
arrived. In 1839, there appeared the English surveying ships,
the " Sulphur" and the "Starling." In 1841, the first Ameri-
can war vessel, the " San Luis," sloop, arrived ; and, later in
the same year, the " Vincennes," also American, on a surveying
expedition. In 1842, came the " Yorktown," the " Cyane," and
the " Dale," all of the American navy ; and in the same year,
the " Brillante," a French sloop-of-war. From this last named
year downwards both ships of war and merchantmen of all na-
tions occasionally entered the port. Whale ships first began to
make their appearance for supplies in the fall of the year 1822,
increasing in number, year by year, since that period. However,
some impolitic port restrictions by the authorities had the effect
latterly of sending oif a considerable number of this class of
ships to the Sandwich Islands, a jjlace much less convenient for
obtaining supplies than San Francisco Bay. Since likewise the
discovery of gold in the country, and the consequent temptation
of seamen to desert, as well as the enhanced price of most sup-
plies, whale ships have not found it their interest to visit San
Francisco, but prefer victualling and refitting at the Sandwich
Islands.

Previous to 1822, a small traffic was carried on between the
coast of Mexico and the California ports ; the latter exporting
principally tallow and a little soap. Some small vessels from
the Sandwich Islands also visited occasionally San Francisco and
the other harbors in California. It was in the last year named
that the trade began between California and the United States
and England. The country then sent its tallow chiefly to Callao
and Peru, and its hides to the. States and to England. The price
of a hide in 1822, was fifty cents, and of taUow, six dollars per
hundred weight. These prices had the effect of soon decreasing
the number of cattle ; and, in the following year, hides rose to
one and a half dollars apiece, payable in cash, or two dollars, if
the amount was taken in merchandise. The trade value of hides
continued at nearly this rate until the war between the United
States and Mexico. v

Some few natural occurrences during these early years of the

HEAVY RAINS AND EARTHQUAKES. 165

place are worth recording. In December 1824 and in the spring
of the following year, very heavy rains fell over all this part of
the country. The Sacramento and tributaries rose to a great
height, and their valleys were flooded in many places to a depth
of fourteen feet. It was partly owing to the great volumes of
fresh water brought down through the bay, in 1825, that a por-
tion of the land at the southern side of the entrance, was washed
away as stated in a previous chapter. In September, 1829, sev-
eral very severe shocks of an earthquake were experienced in
San Francisco, which forced open lock-fast doors and windows.
In 1839, an equally severe earthquake took place. In 1812,
however, a much more serious convulsion had been felt over all
California, which shook down houses and some churches in several
parts of the country, and killed a considerable number of human
beings. The Church of San Juan Capistrano was completely
destroyed, and forty-one persons, chiefly Indians, were killed by
its fall. We have already said that an Indian tradition attributes
the formation of the present entrance to the Bay of San Fran-
cisco to an earthquake, which forced open a great passage through
the coast range of hills for the interior waters. It may be men-
tioned, when on this subject, that since these dates, no serious
occurrences of this nature have happened at San Franciscc.
though almost every year slight shocks, and occasionally smarter
ones have been felt. God help the city if any great catastrophe
of this nature should ever take place ! Her huge granite and
brick palaces, of four, five and six stories in height, would indeed
make a prodigious crash, more ruinous both to life and property
than even the dreadful'fires of 1849, 1850 and 1851. This is
the greatest, if not the only possible obstacle of consequence to
the growing prosperity of the city, though even such a lament-
able event as the total destruction of half the place, like another
Quito or Caraccas, would speedily be remedied by the indomita-
ble energy and persevering industry of the American character.
Such a terrible calamity, however, as the one imagined, may
never take place. So " sufiicient for the day is the e^dl thereof"
This maxim abundantly satisfies the excitement-craving, money-
seeking, luxurious-living, reckless, heaven-earth-and-hell- daring
citizens of San Francisco.

IQQ ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

We have elsewhere explained the nature of the climate in

espect that the winter and summer months are simply the rainy
and dry seasons of the year. We have seen above, the effects
of excessive rains ; and we may also mark the result of unusual
drouo-ht. In the personal recollections of Captain Richardson,
who is our authority on this subject, there have been several such
seasons in the country around the Bay of San Francisco since
1822, when that gentleman came to California. The grass on
such occasions was completely dried up, and cattle perished in
consequence. The missionaries were under the necessity of send-
ino- out all their Indian servants to cut down branches of oak
trees for the herds to subsist upon. In these dryer seasons, too,
the crops suffered greatly from grasshoppers ; which insects,
about the month of July, when the corn was still green, would
sweep all before them. It may be remarked generally, that
while the year is divided into two seasons — wet and dry — there
is great irregularity, in the case of the former, as to the average
quantity of rain falling annually. During some winters heavy
rains pour down, without intermission, for months together ;
while, on other and often alternate winters, the sky is clear for
weeks — then for only a few days slight showers will descend — and
again there occurs a long period of the most delightful and dry
weather imaginable. Slight frosts are occasionally felt during the
winter months ; and ice, from the thickness of a cent to that of
an inch is seen for a day or two, nearly every season. Generally,
however, the winter climate is mild and open, and the winter
months are the most pleasant of the year.

The excessively and injuriously wet and dry seasons are ex-
ceptional cases, and do not impugn the accuracy of the state-
ments, made elsewhere, of the general mildness of the climate,
productiveness of the soil, and safety of the harvest. A fertile
field or a fruitful tree will not lose its character, because occasion-
ally there happens to be a short crop. The Pacific is still
reputed a serene ocean, though sometimes a gale or tempest
sweeps over it. Even in the case of possible earthquakes, no-
body would hold France, or Spain, or even Italy — the bella Italia
i»f the old world, as California is of the new one — to be danger-
ous countries to live in, although historical records show that

ARRIVAL OF JACOB P. LEESE AT YERBA BUENA,

167

much damage has been done in them, at long intervals, by vol-
canic eruptions and subterranean movements.

In May, 1836, Mr. Jacob Primer Leese arrived in the Cove
of Yerba Buena, with the intention of establishing a mercantile
business at San Francisco, in partnership with Mr. Nathan Spear
and Mr. W. S. Hinckley, who were to remain at Monterey, and

Jacob Primer Leese.

manage the business of the firm there. Mr. Leese brought let-
ters from the then governor of California, Don Mariano Chico,
to the alcalde and commandante of San Francisco, desiring them
to render him all assistance in their power in arranging a location
and otherwise. Mr, Leese at once fixed on the beach of Yerba
Buena Cove for his establishment, but as the ordinance of Gene-
ral Figueroa, concerning the government reserve, was still in
force, he could not procure an allotment nearer the beach than at
the distance of two hundred varas. The alcalde and comman-
dante were much pleased that Mr. Leese should come to settle

1G8 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

among their people, and at once offered him a choice of two loca-
tions, one being at the mouth of Mission Creek, and the other at
the entrance to the bay near the presidio. Mr. Leese, however,
had made up his mind on the subject ; and, partly for his own
business convenience, and probably, in part, foreseeing the increas-
ed futm-e value of sites around Yerba Buena Cove, would accept
uo o-rant but one in that quarter. In this the local authorities
could not legally aid him ; so Mr. Leese returned forthwith to
Monterey with his story and complaint to Governor Chico. On
explanations there, the governor informed Mr. Leese that he
would instruct the alcalde of San Francisco to grant an allot-
ment within the limits of the government reserve, and in the
mean time authorized Mr. Leese to select for himself the most
convenient place he could find elsewhere.

Back to Yerba Buena Cove hastened Mr. Leese, and on the
first of July presented to the alcalde his new letters. On the
following day he landed boards and other materials for building,
and immediately took possession of a one-hundred vara lot, ad-
joining on the south side that on which Captain Richard-
son's tent was already erected. Mr. Leese's lot was situated
about two hundred or two hundred and fifty yards from the
beach, and is the spot where the St. Francis Hotel was subse-
quently erected, at the corner of Clay and Dupont streets. Mr.
Leese was indefatigable in hastening the erection of his dwelling,
which was finished by ten o'clock on the morning of the 4th of
July — the Jirst glorious fourth — when the independence of Ame-
rica was commemorated in style in Cahfornia. These two houses,
belonging to Capt. Richardson and Mr. Leese, were the earliest
houses erected in Yerba Buena, and formed the beginning of the
City of San Francisco. It is but eighteen years since their
erection, and now there is a population of over fifty thousand
around the spot !

While Mr. Leese was erecting his mansion, which seems to
have been rather a grand structure, being made of frame, sixty feet
long and twenty-five feet broad, Captain Richardson was kindly
proceeding across the bay to Sonoma, where he invited all the
principal folks of the quarter to a banquet in the new building.
Two events— each great in their way — were to be celebrated :

FIKST CELEBRATION OF THE FOUKTH OF JULY. 169

first, Independence Day, and next, the arrival of Mr. Leese in
the country, his welcome and house-warming. The two worthy
souls, cordially fraternizing, were determined to make a great af-
fair of it ; and so indeed it happened. As it was the first grand
scene in the future San Francisco, where there have since been
so many, we are tempted to dwell a little on the eventful occa-
sion. Future generations will pleasantly reflect on this auspicious
commencement to the pride of the Pacific, then like a new-born
infant cradled by its tender parents, Capt. Richardson and Mr.
Leese, and tricked out in all the magnificence of an heir's baby
clothes.

At this time there was lying in the cove the American
barque "Don Quixote," commanded by Mr. Leese's partner,
Capt. Hinckley, and on board of which were their goods. There
were also at anchor in the port another American ship and a
Mexican brig. These vessels supplied every bit of colored bunt-
ing they could furnish, with which was decorated Mr. Leese's
hall. A splendid display was the result. Outside of the build-
ing floated amicably the Mexican and American flags — the first
time the latter was displayed on the shore of Yerba Buena.
Captain Hinckley seems to have been somewhat extravagant in
his passion for sweet sounds, since he always travelled with a
band of music in his train. Through this cause the most stylish
orchestra, perhaps, ever before heard in California, was provided
by him. This consisted of a clarionet, flute, violin, drum, fife
and bugle ; besides two small six pounders to form the bass, and
to add their emphatic roar to the swelling din, when a toast of
more than usual importance should be given. These last, how-
ever, were borrowed from the presidio.

The feast was prepared ; the minstrels were met ; and the
guests began to assemble about three o'clock on the afternoon of
the Fourth. They were about sixty in number, and included
General M. Gr. Vallejo and all the principal famihes from the
neighborhood of Sonoma, such as the Castro, Martinez, &c., as
well as the chief inhabitants of San Francisco. Besides the
banqueting hall, Mr. Leese had erected a number of small tents,
in which to receive his numerous guests and provide for them
comfortably. At five o'clock dinner was served, and immediately

170

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

afterwards followed the toasts. First of all was given the uniou
of tlie Mexican and American flags. (How little did the con-
vivial ])arties then dream of the near advent of the sole and ah-
solute sway of the Americans in tlie country !) General Valleju
next jiaid the honors to Washington. Then followed appropriate
national and individual toasts in their order ; but which it is

Celebration of tlie Fourth of July at Lcese's House.

needless to i)articu]arize. The guests were as happy as mortals
could well he ; and, in short, " all went merry as a marriage
hell." The abundance and variety of liquors at table seemed to
tickle the Californians amazingly. One worthy gentleman took
a prodigious flmcy to lemon syrup, a tumbler full of which he
would r|uafr to every toast. This soon made him sick, and sent
him ..ir with a coHc ; which was all matter of mirth to his "jolly
companions, every one." At ten o'clock our "city fathers" got
the table cleared for further action, and dancing and other
ainu...'inent8 then commenced. The ball was kept hot and

FIRST CHILD BORN IN YERBA BUENA. 171

rolling incessantly, all that night, and it appears, too, the follow-
ing day ; for, as Mr. Leese naively observes, in his interesting
and amusing diary, " ouj- fourth ended on the evening of the
fifth." Many of the simple-minded Indians and such lower
class white people as were not invited, had gathered around
while the festivities and sports were going on among the people
of quahty, and could not contain themselves for joy, but contin-
ually exclaimed, "^we buenos son los Americanos ! " — What
capital fellows these Americans are ! And doubtless the white
gentry thought, and often said the same.

But let a Yankee alone for knowing his own interest in spend-
ing money lavishly ! In a few days afterwards, Mr. Leese had
concluded the landing of his twelve thousand dollars worth of
goods, when he opened his store for business. The grateful guests,
and aU the people around, at once flocked to purchase ; and
trade, he says, became quite brisk, at most satisfactory prices.

Shortly after this event, Mr, Leese, upon a hasty courtship —
or rather, for he seems to have had no time to wait, and Califor-
nia was beginning to shake off her lethargy and be a go-ahead
countiy ; in fact, none beyond "popping the question," in smart
business fashion, on the 1st of April, 1837 (ominous day for such
a deed !) — was married to a sister of General VaUejo. On the
7th of the same month they were tied together, for life, by the
"holy bands of matrimony ;" and from this union, on the 15th
of April, 1838, sprung their eldest child — Eosalie Leese — heiny
the first horn in Terba Buena.

In this year, Mr. Leese erected a large frame building on the
beach, with consent of the alcalde, the latter observing that the
governor had informed him he was going to lay out a few town
lots. He therefore permitted Mr. Leese, in order to forward his
plans, to take a one-hundred vara lot provisionally where he wish-
ed. The present banking-house of Mr. James King of William,
at the corner of Commercial and Montgomery streets, and which
is situated in what may be called the centre of San Francisco,
occupies the site of Mr. Leese's frame building on the beach of Yer-
ba Buena Cove. In this year also. Captain Eichardson erected
an adobe building on the same lot he had always occupied, and
which has been already noticed. This adobe building, one and a

172 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO,

half stories liigli, was the old " Casa Grande " which stood on the
west side of Dupont-street, between Washington and Clay streets,
and was taken down in 1852. About this time, some native Cali-
fornians and a few visitors of foreign extraction, chiefly American,
began to settle in the rising town. The arrivals of ships likewise
were gradually increasing.

In 1839, Don J. B. Alvarado, then constitutional governor of
California, dispatched an order to the then alcalde of San Fran-
cisco, Francisco Haro, to get a survey taken of the plain and cove
of Yerba Buena. This was accordingly made by Captain Juan
Vioget in the fall of the same year, and was the first regular sur-
vey of the place. It included those portions of the present city
which lie between Pacific street on the north, Sacramento street
on the south, Dupont street on the west, and Montgomery street
on the east. The original bounds of the new town were therefore
very limited. The lot on which Mr. Leese built his second house
was marked No. 1 on the plan, and its eastern front made the
line of the present Montgomery street, which then formed the
beach of the cove. Mr, Leese seems to have been pretty well
treated by the authorities in the matter of the new town, since he
appears to have received, besides the allotment already mentioned,
farther grants of three one-hundred vara lots on the west side of
Dupont street, and two on the south side of Sacramento street,
as well as of other three lots, likewise outside of the survey. To
conclude this notice of Mr. Leese's close connection with the rising
fortunes of Yerba Buena, it may be mentioned, that, in the month
of August, 1841, he sold his dwelling-house to the Hudson's Bay
Company, and removed his property and family to Sonoma, with
the intention of engaging in extensive cattle transactions in Oregon,
which territory was then attracting much notice, and had begun
to draw to it manv agricultural settlers.

CHAPTER III.

Removal of the Hudson's Bay Company. — Eapid growth and Increase of population of Terba Buena.
— First newspapers established in California. — Tables showing the number of inhabitants in
1S47, with their places of birth, ages, sexes and occupations. — Ordinance of the alcalde changing
the name of Terba Buena to San Francisco. — W. A. Bartlett was the first alcalde under the Ame-
rican flag, who was succeeded by George Hyde, and he by Edwin Bryant. — Powers of an alcalde,
— Great sale of beach and water lots, agreeably to a decree of General Kearny. — Price of grants
of property, and subsequent increased value of city lots. — Width of the streets. — Municipal regu-
lation restricting purchasers.

During the early years of the existence of Yerba Buena, little
occurs worthy of notice. The place continued merely a village ;
and its history for some years subsequent to 1841, would be sim-
ply a record of the private business transactions of the Hudson's
Bay Company, whose agents and people formed nearly the entire
settlement. Even so lately as 1844, Yerba Buena contained only
about a dozen houses, and its permanent population did not ex-
ceed fifty persons. In 1846 the Hudson's Bay Company disposed
of their property, and removed from the place. After that pe-
riod it began gradually to increase in importance and population.
The progress of poUtical events during which the country passed
into American hands, was, as might have been anticipated, the
chief cause of the rapid strides onward which the place now began
to take.

By mid-summer of 1846, the population numbered upwards
of two hundred, and the buildings of all kinds had increased to
nearly fifty. From this date the place advanced with wonderful
rapidity. On the first April of the following year, it contained
seventy-nine buildings, viz. : — twenty-two shanties, thirty-one
frame-houses, and twenty-six adobe buildings. In the course of
the subsequent five months, seventy-eight new tenements were
erected, viz. : — forty-seven of frame, eleven of adobe, and twenty
shanties. About this time the permanent population had increas-

174 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

ed to nearly five hundred. By the end of April, 1848, about the
time when the " rush " to the " diggings " commenced, the town
contained nearly two hundred buildings, viz. : — one hundred and
thirty-five (finished dwelling-houses, ten unfinished houses of the
same class, twelve stores and warehouses, and thirty-five shanties.
At this last date the population numbered about a thousand in-
dividuals, composed almost entirely of people from the United
States or from European countries. Every day was bringing
new immigrants, and every week additional houses were erected.

Three kinds of buildings generally appear early in the progress
of American settlements : — the church, tavern and printing-office.
The last was established so early as January, 1847, when the pop-
ulation was little more than three hundred ; and, on the 7th of
that month the first number of the " California Star" appeared.
This paper was published by Mr. Samuel Brannan, and edited by
Dr. E. P. Jones, It was a small sheet of four pages, about fifteen
inches by twelve of type, and appeared every Saturday. It was
a neat production — type, matter and arrangement being of excel-
lent quality. A passage in the prospectus gave notice that " it
will eschew with the greatest caution every thing that tends to
the propagation of sectarian dogmas." This clause may have
been inserted in consequence of the publisher having but recently
been prominently connected with a certain religious sect, and with
a view to assure the public that it was no part of his intention to
make the "Star" the medium of promulgatingitspeculiar sectarian
tenets.

" The Calif ornian" also a weekly newspaper, of still smaller
dimensions, and of much inferior typographical pretension, had
previously appeared at Monterey, where its first number was issued
on the 15th August, 1846, by Messrs. Colton & Semple, by whom
also it was edited. Commodore K. F, Stockton, however, was the
originator of this publication. This was the first newspaper in
the English, or indeed, in any language, which was published in
California. For the sake of the natives, the editors gave a portion
of the contents in Spanish ; but the greater part from the begin-
ning, and soon the whole of it, was printed in Enghsh. The pub-
lishers seem to have been reduced to considerable difficulty in
getting out their paper. In one of the impressions they give this

FIRST NEWSPAPERS ESTABLISHED, 175

explanatory and apologetic note for its rude appearance. We
copy literally : —

"Our Alphabet. — Onr type is a Spanish font picked up here in a clois-
ter, and has no VY's [Ws] in it, as there is none in the Spanish alphabet. I
have sent to the sandwich Islands for this letter, in the mean time we must
use two Vs. Our paper at present is that used for wrapping segars ; in due
time we will have something better : our object is to establise a press in
California, and this vre shall in all probability be able to accomplish. The
absence of my partner for the last three months and my buties as Alcaldd here
have dedrived our little paper of some of those attentions which I hope it will
hereafter receive.

" Walter Colton."

The printer is responsible for a few errors in the above ex-
tract ; but the editor seems also blameable for the rapid changes
from singular to plural and back again. It will be noticed from
the date of the first number of the " Californian/' that it was
issued immediately after the capture of Sonoma and the first
hoisting of the American flag in the northern towns of California ;
and no doubt these events hastened its appearance. In the
prospectus the editor says : " We shall maintain an entire and
utter severance of all political connection with Mexico. We
renounce at once and forever aU fealty to her laws, all obedience
to her mandates. * * * We shall advocate a tenitorial
relation of California to the United States, till the number of
her inhabitants is such that she can be admitted a member of
that glorious confederacy. * * * We shall support the
present measures of the commander-in-chief of the American
squadron on the coast, so far as they conduce to the public tran-
quillity, the organization of a free representative government,
and our alliance with the United States. * * * We shall
go for California— /or all her interests, social, civil, and religioiis
— encouraging every thing that promotes these ; resisting every
thing that can do them harm." Thus, every thing was showing
that the Americans were resolved, at whatever cost, to keep the
country, and make it their own. Meanwhile, San Francisco was
rising into such importance as to make it a much superior place
for publication to Monterey ; and accordingly on the 22d day of
May, 1847, Mr. Robert Semple, who seems now to have been the

176

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

sole publisher of the " Californian," issued the first number of
the second volume of that paper at the former town, much en-
larged and every way improved. This therefore was the second
newspaper established in our city, at a time when the permanent
population did not exceed four hundred.

From the columns of these early papers we extract much
curious information regarding the number and elements of the
population of San Francisco in the latter part of June, 1847.
The following table shows the total number of inhabitants, the
sex and age of the whites, and the sex of the Indians, Sandwich
Islanders, and negroes ; excluding the officers and soldiers of
the detachment of New York volunteers stationed there at the
time : —

Whites.

Under 5 years of age

Over 5 and under 10 years

10
15

20
25
30
40
50
60
70

20
25
30
40
50
60
70
80

Total whites 247

Indians (of different ages) 26

Sandwich Islanders (of different ages)
Negroes (of different ages)

Males.

Females.

Total

—

247

128

375

Total

321

138

459

From this table it will be seen that upwards of four-fifths of
the whole population were under forty years of age ; while more
than one-half were between twenty and forty — the prime of life.
Under twenty, the sexes were nearly equal in number ; but
above that age, the vast majority were males. These circum-
stances must be borne in mind when the reader considers the
restless enterprise, energy and capability exhibited by the com-
l)aratively small population of the town. We have already
alluded to the mixture of foreigners who settled in San Fran-

POPULATION OF YEKBA BUENA.

177

CISCO. We now give the birth-places of the above white popula-
tion : —

Born in the United States, 228 ; in California, 38 ; other
Mexican departments, 2 ; Canada, 5 ; Chili, 2 ; England, 22 ;
France, 3 ; Germany, 27 ; Ireland, 14 ; Scotland, 14 ; Switzer-
land, 6 ; at sea, 4 ; Denmark, Malta, New Holland, New Zea-

San Francisco, from the Bay, in 1847.

land, Peru, Poland, Russia, Sandwich Islands, Sweden .and

West Indies, one each.

As of the number stated to have been born in California,

eight were children of immigrant parents, it will be seen that

the total population of Spanish or Mexican descent was only

thirty-two. Three-fifths of the total inhabitants were of direct

American origin ; and perhaps one-fifth more was composed of

people who had previously settled or lived in the United States.

The Americans, however, as may be supposed, were from every
12

178 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

State in the Union, and were often as different from each other
in personal characteristics, as if they had been so many foreigners
of separate countries.

The number who could read and write was two hundred and
seventy-three ; those who could read, but not write, were thir-
teen ; while those who could neither read nor write, were eighty-
nine.

From these statements it appears that the number who could
neither read nor write bore a near relation to the number of
inhabitants under ten years of age. At that period, it may be
mentioned, there was only one school in the place, and no proper
facilities were as yet given for bestowing a suitable education
upon the young.

The occupations or professions of the white males were as
follows : — 1 minister ; 3 doctors ; 3 lawyers ; 2 surveyors ; 1
school-teacher ; 11 agriculturalists ; 7 bakers ; 6 blacksmiths ;
1 brewer ; 6 brick-makers ; 7 butchers ; 2 cabinet makers ;
26 carpenters ; 1 cigar-maker ; 13 clerks ; 3 coopers ; 1 gar-
dener ; 5 grocers ; 2 gunsmiths ; 3 hotel-keepers ; 20 laborers ;
4 masons ; 11 merchants ; 1 miner ; 1 morocco-case maker ; 6
inland navigators ; 1 ocean navigator ; 1 painter ; 6 printers ;
1 saddler ; 4 shoemakers ; 1 silversmith ; 4 tailors ; 2 tanners ;
1 watchmaker ; 1 weaver.

The places in which the inhabitants conducted their business,
were as follows, viz. :- — shops, 1 apothecary, 2 blacksmith, 3
butcher, 1 cabinet maker, 2 carpenter, 1 cigar-maker, 2 cooper,
1 gun-smith, 1 shoemaker, 2 tailor, and 1 watchmaker ; 8 stores ;
7 groceries ; 2 hotels ; 1 wind-mill ; 1 horse-mill ; 2 printing-
offices ; and 3 bakeries.

The Indians, Sandwich Islanders, and negroes, who formed
nearly one-fifth of the population, were mostly employed as
servants and porters. Many of the Sandwich Islanders were
engaged in navigating the bay, and were very expert boatmen.

On the 30th of January, 1847, the following important
" ordinance " appeared in the " California Star."

"AN ORDINANCE.

"Whereas, the local name of Yerba Buena, as applied to the settlement
or town of San Francisco, is unknown beyond the district ; and has been ap-

POWERS OF AN ALCALDE. 179

plied from the local name of the cove, on which the town is built : Therefore.
to prevent confusion and mistakes in public documents, and that the town
may have the advantage of the name given on the public map,

"It is hereby ordained, that the name of San Francisco shall here-
after be used in all olBcial communications and public documents, or records
appertaining to the town.

" Wash'n a. Bartlett,

'• Chief Magistrate.
" Published by order,

" J. G. T. DuNLEAVT, Municipal Clerk."

Mr. Bartlett was the first alcalde of San Francisco under the
American flag. He was a lieutenant in the United States navy;
and on being subsequently ordered to his ship, Mr, Edwin Bryant
was appointed in his place, and sworn into office on the 22d day
of February, 1847. This gentleman had travelled the previous
year across the country from Independence, Mo., to the Pacific,
and had subsequently joined Col. Fremont as a volunteer in the
reduction of California. Shortly afterwards, he published in
New York an interesting account of his travels under the title,
" What I saw in California." Before Mr. Bryant's appointment
to the chief-magistracy, Mr. George Hyde had acted for a short
time as temporary alcalde.

Under the laws of Mexico, an alcalde had the entire control
of municipal affairs, and administered justice pretty much
according to his own ideas of the subject ; without being tied
down to precedents and formal principles of law. He could
make grants of building-lots within the town boundaries to
intending settlers ; and really in general, his right of administra-
tion (except in cases of importance, either civil or criminal),
seems to have been only limited by his power to carry his decrees
into effect. When the Americans seized the country, and until "
peace should be declared or a formal constitution adopted, they
were obliged to make use of the existing machineiy of local
government and the customary laws that regulated it. They
accordingly every where appointed alcaldes, or chief-magistrates
of towns and districts (it was of little consequence that they
were not laioyers, but only ministers, doctors, adventurers, men
of business, or of pleasure, and the like), and instructed them
to dispense justice in the best manner they could, paying always

180 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

as much regard as possible to the national laws of Mexico and
the provincial customs of California.

The laws of Mexico reserved to the governor of a province
the disposal of lands in towns within a certain number of feet
below high-water mark. By this time, from the number of ships
arrivino- in the Bay of San Francisco, it was becoming absolutely-
necessary that proper facilities should be given for the discharge
and the reception of cargoes, and that wharves and other land-
ing-places should be built across the great mud flat close upon
the beach at the town, and extended to deep water, so that ves-
sels could lie alongside. Upon the application therefore of the
alcalde, Mr. Bryant, the then governor of California, General
Kearny, in anticipation that the country was ultimately to be-
come American, formerly renounced, on the 10th of March, 1847,
in favor of the municipal authorities, the beach and water pro-
perty lying between the points known as the Kincon and Fort
Montgomery, upon the conditions stated in his decree. An ex-
tended survey and plan of the town had been previously com-
menced by Mr. Jasper O'Farrell, under the instructions of the
former alcalde, Mr. Bartlett, and were now continued so as to
embrace the beach and water property. When this survey was
completed, the shore lots, as distinguished from those on the
beach, were disposed of by private sale to applicants at a fixed
price put on them by the alcalde, agreeably to the Mexican cus-
toms. The plan of the city, as surveyed and mapped out by
Mr. O'Farrell, fronted the cove, and included the Telegraph Hill
and the Eincon. It extended about three quarters of a mile
from north to south, and two miles from east to west, and em-
braced about one and a half square miles. As the disposal of the
beach and water lots was a great event in the history of San
Francisco, we give a copy of the advertisement announcing the
sale, and which was published in the " California Star/' of the
town, and in the " Californian," of Monterey, in conformity with
the governor's decree : —

"Great Salk of Valuable Real Estate in the Town of San Fran-
cisco, Upper California.

" By the following decree of His Excellency, General S. W. Kearny, Go-
vernor of California, all the right, title and interest, of the United States, and

SALE OF BEACH AND WATER LOTS. 181

of the Territory of California, to the beach and water lots on the east front
of the town of San Francisco, have been granted, conveyed, and released, to
the people or corporate authorities of said town : —

'Decree of General Kearny.

' I, Brigadier-General S. "W. Kearny, Governor of California, by virtue of
authority in me vested by the President of the United States of America, do
hereby grant, convey, and release unto the town of San Francisco, the people,
or corporate authorities thereof, all the right, title, and interest of the Govern-
ment of the United States, and of the Territory of California, in and to the
beach and water lots on the east front of said town of San Francisco, included
between the points known as the Rincon and Fort Montgomery, except such
lots as may be selected for the use of the United States Government by the
senior officers of the army and navy now there: Provided, the said ground
hereby ceded shall be divided into lots, and sold by public auction to the
highest bidder, after three months notice previously given ; the proceeds of
said sale to be for the benefit of the town of San Francisco.

' Given at Monterey, capital of California, this 10th day of March, 1847,
and the 71st year of the independence of the United States.

'S. "W, Kearny.
^ Brigadier- General and Governor of California?

" In pursuance of and in compliance with the conditions of the foregoing
decree, all the ungranted tract of ground on the east front of the town of San
Francisco, lying and situated between Fort Montgomery and the Rincon. and
known as the water and beach lots (the reservations by the general and town
governments excepted), will be surveyed, and divided into convenient building
lots for warehouses and stores, and offered at public sale to the highest bidder
on Tuesday, the 29th day of June next, at ten o'clock, a. m. A plan of lots
in connection with a general map of the town will be made out and exhibited
on or before the day of sale.

'• Terms of sale, one fourth cash, — one fourth in six months, — one fourth
in twelve months, — and one fourth in eighteen months, the purchaser giving
approved security bearing an interest of ten per cent, per annum from the
day of sale.

" Other conditions wiU be made known on or before the day of sale.

" The site of the town of San Francisco is known to all navigators and
mercantile men acquainted with the subject, to be the most commanding com-
mercial position on the entire eastern coast of the Pacific Ocean, and the town
itself is, no doubt, destined to become the commercial emporium of the west-
ern side of the American continent. The property offered for sale is the most
valuable in, or belonging to the town, and the acquisition of it is an object of
deep interest to all mercantile houses in California and elsewhere engaged in
the commerce of the Pacific.

"Edwin Bryant,

^^ Alcalde, or Chief Magistrate, Town and District of San Francisco.
"San Francisco, Upper California, March \&th, 1847."

182 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

This great sale was subsequently postponed to Tuesday, the
20th of July following, by order of Mr. George Hyde, who was
then alcalde of the town. On the day last named the sale took
place, and lasted for three successive days. The lots were all
contained between the limits of low and high-water mark ; and
four-fifths of them were entirely covered with water at flood tide.
The size of the lots was sixteen and a half varas in width of front,
and fifty varas deep. A vara is a Spanish yard, and is equal to
about thirty-three and one-third inches of English measure.
There were about four hundred and fifty of these lots in all, of
which number two hundred were disposed of at the public sale
above mentioned. The attendance of buyers was pretty fair ;
and the prices given were very considerable (ranging from fifty to
one hundred dollars), considering the population and circumstan-
ces at the time. The price of some of the same lots now would
somewhat astonish the projectors of the town extension of those
days.

Curiously enough, we were in the act of finishing the last
sentence, when we were informed of the prices obtained by the
municipal authorities for other water lots which they were at this
time (26th December, 1853) disposing of likewise at public auc-
tion. These last lots were situated much farther out in the bay,
at places always covered with many feet of water, and measured
less than one-half the size of the old ones, being only twenty-five
feet in front by fifty-nine feet nine inches back. Yet they
brought prices varying from eight to sixteen thousand dollars !
Four small sized building blocks alone produced, in all, the enor-
mous sum of $1,200,000 ; thereby restoring the injured credit
of the city. Such is one contrast between 1847 and 1853 at San
Francisco !

But the principal part of the town was laid out in lots of fifty
varas square ; six of them making a building block, bounded on
the four sides by streets. In August, 1847, there had been
about seven hundred of this description of lots surveyed, of which
number nearly four hundred and fifty had been applied for and
disposed of by the alcalde at a fixed price, which now seems to
have been merely nominal. This price was twelve dollars -per lot.

SALES OF CITY PROPERTY. 183

and when the office fees for deed and recording (three dollars and
sixty-two and a half cents) were added, the total cost was less
than sixteen dollars. The conditions of sale were that the buyer
should fence in the ground, and build a house upon it within one
year ; failing which, the lot and improvements were to revert to
the town.

The south-eastern portion of the town was laid out in lots of
one hundred varas square, six of which also formed a building
block, bounded by regular streets at the four sides. The part of
the town formed by these last lots was supposed to be the least
valuable, and the lots themselves were expected to be the last
taken up and improved by purchasers. The price established by
law for these lots, which were four times the size of the fifty vara
ones, was only twenty-Jive dollars each, and when the deed and
recording fees were added (three dollars and sixty-two and a
half cents), the total cost was under tiaef)ity-nine dollars. In
August, 1847, about one hundred and thirty lots of this descrip-
tion were surveyed and laid out, of which number about seventy
had been sold. The conditions of the sale were similar to those
applicable to the fifty vara lots.

The proceeds of all these sales made up a considerable sura,
and saved the necessity of levying municipal taxes for a short
time. Real estate has advanced so rapidly in value since those
days, that it would only be ridiculous to compare the prices obtain-
able now with those fixed by the alcalde in 1847. In many cases,
however, an immense sum has been actually expended in first
bringing the ground into building condition.

In Mr. O'Farrell's plan, the streets are all regularly laid out
at right angles with each other, and are seventy-five and eighty
feet wide. One, however, is one hundred and ten feet in width.
The streets in the oldest part of the town — that portion surveyed
by Capt. Juan Vioget, as stated in the previous chapter — are
only about sixty feet broad.

There was at one time a municipal regulation, by which in-
dividuals were prevented from purchasing and holding more than
a single fifty or one hundred vara lot. The object of this appears
to have been to exclude speculators from jobbing in the lots, and

184 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

to insure their speedy improvement by the real owner. By pro-
curing lots, however, in the names of third parties, speculators
soon contrived to evade this regulation, and thus a few individu-
als became possessed of a large portion of the extension of the
town. The alcalde and town council therefore, shortly after-
wards, did away with this restriction upon purchasers.

CHAPTER IV.

1846-1847.

Captain Montgomery hoists the American flag on Portsmouth Square.— Arrival of the ship Brooklyn
from New York, with a large company of Mormon and other immigrant*. — Disputes among her
passengers, leading to the first jury trial in San Francisco.— Grand ball at the residence of Wm.
A. Leidesdorffi — Nautical fete given by Capt, Simmons. — Public reception of Com. Stockton. —
Attempts to establish a public school. — Name of town changed to San Francisco. — Number of
buildings and inhabitants.— Sulfering immigrants in the Sierra Nevada. — Trustees of the proposed
school chosen. — Delegates to represent the District of San Francisco in the new legislative coun-
cil—Arrival of Col. Stevenson and New York Volunteers.— Vessels in the harbor, 13th March,
1847.— "The California Star" adopts the name of San Francisco.— Mails estaUished between San
Francisco and San Diego. — Proposed erection of a church. — Grand illumination In honor of Gen.
Taylor's victory at Buena Vista.— Celebrations of Anniversaries. — Public meeting to consider the
claims of Col. Fremont to the office of Governor of the Territory.— Sale of bcich and water
lots. — Election of the first town council. — The first public school- Gales in San Francisco Bay.—
The first steamboat. — Thanksgiving Day. — Commercial Statistics.

Having got the new town of San Francisco fairly planned, and
given some general notion to the reader of the elementary com-
position of its inhabitants, shortly before the time when the dis-
covery of gold was altogether to change its appearance and char-
acter, we shall now turn back a little in the order of time, and
detail such few scattered notices of previous events as may seem
to US worthy of being recorded among the "Annals" of the
place.

1846.

July 8th. — The American flag was, on the morning of this day,
hoisted in the plaza, or public square of Yerba Buena, by Capt.
Montgomery, of the United States sloop-of-war Portsmouth, then
lying in the bay. Two days before Commodore Sloat had despatch-
ed a messenger to Capt. Montgomery, informing him of his in-
tention to raise the American flag at Monterey, and commanding
him to do the same in the northern parts of the province around
the Bay of San Francisco. This Montgomery did at the above

186 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

date, accompanied by a party of seventy sailors and marines,
and under a salute of twenty-one guns from the Portsmouth.
The plaza at this time received the name of Portsmouth Square,
and the street lying on the beach was called Blontgomery Street. It
may be mentioned that the American flag was raised at Sonoma
on the 10th of this month ; and soon afterwards at every princi-
pal place in the northern portion of California, where it was
generally beheld with tranquillity, if not with applause.

July 31st. — The ship " Brooklyn " arrived in San Francisco
Bay with a company of Mormon and other immigrants from New
York. On landing at Yerba Buena, they immediately set up
their tents among the sand-hills close to the beach. Very soon
disputes began to arise between the Mormon people and their
leaders, which ended in an open rupture, and a secession from
their body of several of the principal men. Mr. Samuel Brannan,
one of the most prominent of the party, was bitterly reviled, and
accused of sundry malversations in his office as president of the
association and as one of the managers of their funds. A jury
trial — the first ever seen in Cahfornia — was the consequence ; in
which Mr. Brannan was successful. These proceedings had the
effect of preventing the Mormons at this time from selecting lands
together and establishing themselves as a distinct community.
Soon afterwards many of them volunteered to serve in the war in
California, and joined Colonel Fremont's battalion.

September 8th. — The people of Yerba Buena, though still
few in number, and particularly deficient in the fair sex, seemed
determined to enjoy life while they might. A grand ball was
given on the evening of this day at the residence of Mr. William
A. Leidesdorff, by the officers in the service of the United States,
and by the citizens of the town ; when upwards of one hundred
CaHfornian and American ladies were present, with a large num-
ber of gentlemen. The dancing was very spirited, and kept up
till daylight. This was the first gathering of ladies and gentle-
men since the hoisting of the American flag. It was not long
allowed to be the only one ; for on the 18th of the same month,
we find Capt. Simmons, of the American whale-ship " Magnolia,"
giving a nautical /eYe on board his ship on the evening of that
day. One hundred and fifty family invitations were issued in

PUBLIC SCHOOL PROPOSED. 187

Yeiba Buena and around the bay. From repeated traces which
we find, of subsequent balls, grand dinners and suppers, and
other festive entertainments, it may be presumed that the
people of Yerba Buena were an exceedingly gay set. Business
was brisk, and the town thriving ; while the majority of the pop-
ulation being unmarried and without proper homes, it seemed
that some such kind of continual public diversion was the only
way in which they could unbend their minds from the contem-
plation of the " almighty dollar," and enjoy themselves.

October 5th. — This day. His Excellency, Commodore
Robert F. Stockton, the governor and commander-in-chief of
California, was honored with a public reception on the occasion
of a visit to San Francisco. At a preliminary meeting to make
the necessary arrangements, nearly every male adult of the place
had been present ; and on this day again all turned out in pro-
cession, to welcome the commodore. After the magistracy of the
district and foreign consuls, there came the committee of manage-
ment and the masters of the ships in port, concluding with a
long line of citizens. A military escort and band of music
attended on the occasion. General M. G. Vallejo, with several
other native gentlemen who had held office under the last govern-
ment, also appeared in the procession. We may mention that
the general (many of whose relations were American or English),
and some other leading Californians, had been early of opinion
that the best hopes for their country lay in immediate annexation
to the United States ; and, accordingly, on all occasions, when duty
permitted, they had been firm friends to the Americans. After
an appropriate address to Commodore Stockton, in which he was
complimented upon his efforts and success in reducing California,
and a suitable reply by him, the ceremom'es of the day, after a
long procession to the mission and back again, concluded by an
excellent collation, followed by a baU in the evening.

1847.

January. — Various attempts have been made of late to es-
tablish a public school. The " California Star " has weekly been
calling attention to this important subject. At last a committee
was appointed to ascertain the amount of subscriptions that

188 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

might be expected from the inhabitants, the cost of the building
and the salary of the teacher. Very unlike the usual proceedings
of the citizens, much time and talk seem to have been lost on this
subject ; nor was the object wished for obtained till upwards of
twelve months after this date.

It was in this month that the term Yerba Buena was changed
into San Francisco, by an ordinance of the alcalde, as stated in
the preceding chapter. There were only about fifty houses at
this period in the whole place, most of which were small single
story buildings, constructed chiefly of adobes. They were scat-
tered irregularly over the space lying between the foot of Tele-
graph Hill and Happy Valley. In April, of this year, the pop-
ulation numbered three hundred and seventy-five, without
reckoning the Indians, who were by this time few in numbej.

February 3d. — A public meeting was held on the evening of
this day to consider the alarming situation of a party of immi-
grants, who the previous year had attempted to reach California
by a new route through the Great Basin ; but who, in ignorance
of the country and other causes, had been so long delayed on the
journey, that they were caught among the winter snows of the
Sierra Nevada, where some of them had already perished, and
the remainder were in imminent peril. Not content, however,
with a mere expression of feeling, the meeting subscribed nearly
fifteen hundred dollars, and immediately fitted out an expedition
of twenty men, with an old mountaineer as guide, to proceed to
the mountains with supplies to the sufferers, and to assist in ex-
tricating them from danger. Other expeditions, from various
parts of the country, one of which was organized and altogether
maintained at the personal charges of the benevolent Capt. Sutter
of New Helvetia, likewise made the attempt to penetrate the
mountains, and carry glad tidings and safety to the unfortunates.
By these means those still alive were all rescued by the middle
of spring. The descriptions given by the survivors, and by such
members of the expeditions as were able to reach them, show a
state of things of the most painful and horrible character. Many
indeed had perished, through excessive cold and exposure to the
weather, bodily fatigue and sheer hunger. When the provisions
of the party were exhausted, and there was no strength nor oppor-

SUFFERING IMMIGRANTS.

189

tiinities left to kill game for lood, necessity forced them to feed
upon the dead bodies of their companions, two of whom (Indian
guides), a small detached party of the white people killed for
their support. Some even began to relish this kind of food, and
sought it in preference when other provisions might have been
obtained. One man, particularly, named Kiesburg, was suspected

Saffering Imtnigrants.

of foul murders to enable him to gratify this new and unnatural
propensity. Before the time of trial, however, was over, all were
glad enough of opportunities to partake of the horrid messes of
human blood and uncooked entrails.

Packed closely together to preserve animal heat, in miserably
small tents, with masses of snow beneath and around them, while
pierciug winds and snow blasts penetrated through all their de-
fences, and the temperature was much below the freezing point,
these unhappy beings for months saw only ultimate destruction
from cold and hunger before them. There were husbands and

190 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

wives, parents and children, all bearing the same physical suffer-
ing, and the elders likewise the mental anguish of thinking upon
the sad fate of their Httle ones and the females dependent on them.
Snow had begun to fall earlier than usual among the mountains,
and when the party had arrived at the eastern side of the great
pass across the Sierra Nevada, it lay too soft and deep for them
to proceed. To retrace their steps was impossible ; and, accord-
ingly, they were forced to encamp where they were, with all the
gloomy months of winter before them, unprepared, in every respect,
in clothing, food, and lodging. Soon despair filled every heart ;
while the stealthy approaches of starvation and the daily sight of
their misery brought insanity in their train. Many died laving
mad ; while the minds of all were in some sense affected by the
horror of their situation. By great efforts and much physical ex-
ertion some few scattered members of the company managed to
struggle through the snowy barrier, and slowly and painfully,
reached the nearest settlements on the western slope of the moun-
tains. The warm hearts of the settlers beat with generous emo-
tion on hearing the sad tidings from the few who had thus escaped,
and soon the whole country around San Francisco Bay was aroused
to carry relief to the people still among the snows.

The following notice of the appearance of the suffering immi-
grants when the relief party reached them, is taken from the " Cal-
ifornia Star " of the 10th April, 1847 :—

" The bones of those who had died and been devoured by the miserable ones
that still survived, were lying around their tents and cabins. Bodies of men,
women and children, with half the flesh torn from them, lay on every side. A
womau bat by the side of the body of her husband, who had ju3t diei, cutting
out his tongue ; the heart she had already taken out, broiled and eat ! The
daughter was seen eating the flesh of the father — the mother that of her chil-
dren — children that of father and mother. The emaciated, wild and ghastly
appearance of the survivors added horror to the scene. Language cannot de-
scribe the awful change that a few weeks of dire suffering had wrought in the
minds of the wretched and piteous beings. Those who but one month before
would have shuddered at the thought of eating human flesh, or of killing their
companions and relatives to preserve their own hves, now looked upon the
opportunity by these acts afforded them of escaping the most dreadful of deaths,
as a providential interference in their behalf Calculations were coldly made,
as they sat gloomily around their camp fires, for the next and succeeding meals.
Various expedients were devised to prevent the dreadful crime of murder ; but

SUFFERING IMMIGRANTS. 191

they finally resolved to kill those who had the least claims to longer exist-
ence. Just at this moment, however, as if by divine interposition, some of
them died, which afforded the rest temporary relief. Some sunk into the arms
of death cursing God for their miserable fate, while the last whisperings of
others were prayers and songs of praise to the Almighty.

" After the first few deaths, but the one all-absorbing thought of individual
self preservation prevailed. The fountains of natural affection were dried up.
The chords that once vibrated with connubial, parental and filial affection were
rent asunder, and each one seemed resolved, without regard to the fate of oth-
ers, to escape from the impending calamity. Even the wild hostile mountain
Indians, who once visited their camps, pitied them ; and instead of pursuing
the natural impulse of their hostile feelings to the whites, and destroying
them, as they easily could have done, divided their own scanty supply of food
with them.

" So changed had the immigrants become, that when the party sent out
arrived with food, some of them cast it aside, and seemed to prefer the putrid
human flesh that still remained. The day before the party arrived, one of the
immigrants took a child of about four years of age in bed with him, and de-
voured the whole before morning, and the next day eat another about the same
age before noon.

" It is thought that several more of these unfortunate people might have
been saved, but for their determination not to leave their property. Some of
them who started, loaded themselves with their money and other efifects to
such an extent that they sunk under them, and died on the road."

It was expected that this calamity would have had a serious
influence in deterring future immigration into California from the
United States. But the discovery of gold immediately afterwards
destroyed all calculations on the subject, and sent headlong tens
of thousands across the plains and over the Rocky and Snowy Moun-
tains where the above party had suffered so much, to encounter
in some cases nearly the same amount of misery as they. We
have seen that the town of San FrancioCu nobly did its duty on
the lamentable occasion. Of the eighty individuals who composed
the party, of whom forty-eight were males and thirty-two females,
thirty-six perished. Of these, twenty-eight were males, and only
eight females. The story of their sutferings and end make a strik-
ing incident in the history of California, and is worthy of being
recorded in the " Annals of San Francisco," if it were only to
mark the liberal exertions made by its citizens in their behalf.

February 21st. — Dr. F. Forgeaud, C. L. Ross, Dr. J. Town-
send, J. Serrine and W. H. Davis, were appointed trustees of the
proposed school.

192 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

March 4th. — A meeting of citizens was held this day to con-
sider the propriety of resolving, that the District of San Francisco
should be fitly represented by one member in the new legislative
council, convened by the governor, until a proper constitution
should be obtained for the Territory ; when it was resolved to that
effect, and Mr. J. Gr. T. Dunleavy was chosen by a majority of
votes, to be representative accordingly. It appeared that the
legislative council, recently organized by Com, Stockton, consisted
of seven individuals, four of whom were Californians, one English-
man and two Americans ; while it was an undoubted fact that
the majority of the white population was from the United States,
and the constant immigration was daily increasing this majority.
Similar meetings complaining of the insufficient American repre-
sentation in the council were held at Sonoma, Santa Clara, and
other places, at which American delegates were chosen to repre-
sent their interests, the governor being entreated by these meet-
ings to accept of their choice, and formally to re-appoint their
nominees as members of the legislative council. It does not ap-
pear that any notice was taken of these proceedings, or that the
" people's choice " became also His Excellency's. The latter alone
had the complete control of the Government — which, so long as
war with Mexico lasted, was necessarily a militaiy one — and ap-
pointed only such officers to assist him in the same as suited his
personal views of the subject.

March 6th. — The ship Thomas H. Perkins arrived from New
York, bringing Col. Stevenson of the New York volunteers, and
the first detachment of his regiment. With few exceptions, the
volunteers were mechanics and single men; and as they were enlist-
ed to serve during the war, and when peace came, to be disbanded
only in California, it was expected that they would nearly all re-
main as permanent settlers in the country. The colonel himself
and all his officers, had likewise expressed their wish and deter-
mination to make California their home after the termination of
hostilities.

March 13th. — There were in the harbor at this date six
square-rigged vessels, viz. : the United States ship Cyane, the
ships Moscow, Vandaha, Barnstable, Thomas H. Perkins, and the
brig Euphemia.

CELEBRATION OF ANNIVERSARIES. 193

March 20th. — The local newspaper, the " California Star,"
is pleased, at last, to acquiesce, very unwillingly, in the change of
name from Yerba Buena to San Francisco ; and to-day, for the
first time, dates its leader from the latter. This change seems
not to have gratified every party. Mr. Semple, of the Monterey
" Californian," and Mr. T. 0. Larkin, who had jointly founded
the new city of Francisca, on the Strait of Carquinez, afraid lest
their rising town should be confounded and lost in the name and
fame of San Francisco, were forced to change the appellation of
the former to Benicia. In those days, Benicia was anticipated by
many to be the great future rival of San Francisco. Later times
have shown how unnecessary fear was on the subject.

April. — Semi-monthly mails established between San Fran-
cisco and San Diego and intermediate places.

Mat 6th. — A public meeting was held to consider the pro-
priety of erecting a church in the. town ; when a committee
was appointed for the purpose of taking steps to procure the erec-
tion.

May 28th. — First grand illumination in San Francisco. This
was in honor of General Taylor's great victory over the Mexicans
at Buena Vista. Every building in the town, of frame or adobe,
and shanty itself, shone with as much lustre as an unlimited al-
lowance of oil and tallow could bestow. Fire-arms cracked, and
bonfires blazed on all sides.

July. — Two great anniversaries were held this month, in a
becoming manner, at San Francisco, viz. : the independence-day
of the United States, on the 4th, — and the independence or con-
quest-day of California, on the 7th ; on which latter day, in the
previous year, the American flag had been hoisted at Monterey by
Com. Sloat. We have already had occasion to notice the cele-
bration of a " glorious fourth," just eleven years before, when Mr.
Leese had erected the first solid building (his house being of frame,
while Capt. Kichardson's, erected the preceding year, was only a
canvas-covered tent), that was seen in Yerba Buena. Then the
country was Mexican, and while the guests were chiefly of that
nation, the flags of both Mexico and the United States floated
amicably together. Now — only eleven years later — the country
was American, and her flag alone was displayed, while the vast

194 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

majority of those who shared in the festival was of that nation.
What a wonderful change these few years had made in the char-
acter and prospects of the country ! As before we had occasion
to chronicle Mr. Leese's musicians, his six pounders, his dinner,
drinks, dancing and general festivities ; so we may here say, that
the day of 1847 was celebrated in a similar manner, under salutes
from men of war in the bay, and the presidio, when people on
shore processed to musical strains, and when flags waved, and
much powder was burned, and the citizens speechified and hur-
rahed, toasted, drank, danced and made merry as is usual on
such occasions. The 7th was observed in a similar fashion.

July 14th. — On this day was held a public meeting of a large
number of citizens to consider the conduct of Col. Fremont in Cal-
ifornia, and his claims to be chosen by the President of the Uni-
ted States as Governor of the Territory. It appears that after
the colonel's volunteer regiment of " mounted riflemen " was
disbanded, there had been no money forthcoming for the arrears
of pay, or even to reimburse the heavy pecuniary loss and outlay
which many of the officers and men had incurred. Governor
Kearny, and his successor. Governor Mason, would not, or could
not, make such payments from the territorial exchequer, or ra-
ther grant available warrants upon the national treasury without
the previous sanction of Congress. They had accepted a country
conquered partly by these very volunteers, and had entered upon
possession of its revenues, and yet would not, or cruelly delayed
to pay the necessary cost. Col. Fremont therefore appeared, in
the mean time, the only debtor ; but as it was impossible that he
could pretend to be able to make payment of the very large sums
disbursed on account of the war in California, and for the benefit
solely of the United States, much personal dissatisfaction was ex-
pressed against him by all who had suftered in this way, and by
many sympathizing friends, especially in the northern districts of
the country. In the southern quarters, from whence he had drawn
few or no volunteers, and owed therefore neither pay nor supplies,
the colonel had become exceedingly popular ; and this although he
had been a successful invader. In these parts of the country a
petition had been got up and was numerously signed, praying
Congress to appoint him Governor of California. The same peti-

ELECTION OF A TOWN COUNCIL. 195

tion being taken northwards for the approval and signatures of
the Americans around San Francisco Bay, excited much angry
feeling on the subject. Col. Fremont was in danger of losing all
his recent popularity, and in the rage and injustice of the moment,
was even denied many of the claims, formerly advanced and else-
where allowed, to the heroic part he had taken in the conquest
of the country. At the meeting above mentioned, a committee
of eight gentlemen was formed to investigate and publish all re-
liable instances of his misconduct ; and meantime, the meeting
protested against his being chosen as their governor by Congress.
It may just farther be stated on this subject, that Congress, a
considerable time afterwards, allotted a large sum to satisfy all
claims against Fremont on account of the war in California, and
which naturally fell upon the United States as accepting the coun-
try reduced to their hands.

July 20th. — Beginning of the great sale of beach and water
lots in San Francisco, as detailed in a preceding chapter.

July 28th. — The alcalde, Mr. George Hyde, selected six gen-
tlemen to assist him in disposing of the great and daily accumu-
lation of mimicipal business. These were the ayuntamiento, or
" town council," as they were called, and were to remain in office
until the governor should think fit formally to cause an election
to take place among the citizens to fill their places. According-
ly, on

August 15th, Governor Mason issued an ordinance addressed
to Mr. Hyde, in regard to such an election. As it explains the
manner in which the municipal government was carried on in those
days, we quote the principal portion of it : —

" There is wanted in San Francisco an eflBcient town government, more so
than is in the power of an alcalde to put in force. There may be soon expect-
ed a large number of whalers in your bay, and a large increase of your popu-
lation by the arrival of immigrants. It is therefore highly necessary that you
should at an early day have an efficient town police, proper town laws, town
officers, &c., for enforcement of the laws, for the preservation of order, and for
the proper protection of persons and property.

" I therefore desire that you call a town meeting for the election of six
persons, who when elected shall constitute the town council, and who in con-
junction with the alcalde shall constitute the town authorities until the end
of the year 1848.

196 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

" All the municipal laws and regulations will be framed by the council,
but executed by the alcalde in his judicial capacity as at present.

" The first alcalde will preside at all meetings of the council, but shall have
no vote, except in cases where the votes are equally divided.

" The town council (not less than four of whom shall constitute a quorum
for the transaction of business), to appoint all the town officers, such as trea-
surer, constables, watchmen, &c., and to determine their pay, fees, &c.

" The treasurer to enter into ample and sufficient bonds, conditioned for
the faithful performance of his duties : the bonds to be fully executed to the
satisfaction of the council before the treasurer enters upon his duties.

" The second alcalde shall, in case of the absence of the first alcalde, take
his place and preside at the council, and there perform all the proper functions
of the first alcalde.

" No soldier, sailor or marine, nor any person who is not a bona fide resi-
dent of the town shall be allowed to vote for a member of the town council."

In pursuance of the foregoing order, Mr. Hyde fixed the elec-
tion for six members for a town council, upon

September 13th. — We give the names of the gentlemen elect-
ed, along with the names of those who had previously been ap-
pointed by the alcalde, as an interim council : —

Councillors elected. No. of votes. Councillors chosen by Alcalde.

William Glover, 126 William A. Leidesdorff.

WiUiam D. M. Howard, 114 Robert A. Parker.

William A. Leidesdorff, 109 Jose P. Thompson.

E. P. Jones, 88 Pedro T. Sherreback.

Robert A. Parker, 74 John Rose.

William S. Clark, 72 Benjamin R. Buckelew.

The town council chose Mr. Leidesdorff their treasurer. The
first alcalde was Mr. George Hyde ; and the second, Dr. T, M.
Leavenworth. Immediately after the formation of the town
council, its members entered with spirit upon the duties of their
office. They passed a midtitude of laws affecting the general
interests of the town, regulating the streets and buildings, the
licensing and character of business allowed, appointed constables,
&c. Soon, therefore, the place became to assume a steady pro-
gressive appearance, and some fair sort of order was every where
established. This council may be said to have had every thing
to do to found the city. Our work would swell beyond all rea-
sonable limits, should we attempt to name every pubHc act of
importance — when nearly all they did was new and of vital con-

THE FIRST THANKSGIVING DAT. 197

sequence to the well-being of San Francisco — performed by this
council. We can only, therefore, give an occasional notice in
future of their proceedings. One, however, of their earliest reso-
lutions may just be glanced at, viz. : the rescinding of those con-
ditions in the sale of town lands, which made it imperative on the
buyer to fence in and erect a building upon his lot within a year
after the purchase. One effect of this was certainly to encourage
speculation, since jobbers in lots could now safely hold an inde-
finite number, when not obliged to erect buildings upon them
within a limited time,

September 24th. — Messrs. Leidesdorfi", Glover and Clark
were appointed by the town council a committee to take measures
for the estabhshment of a pubhc school. Various resolutions
were subsequently passed by the council on this subject, and after
much pubhc agitation, at length, on 17th March, 1848, a teacher
was appointed, with a salary of one thousand dollars ; and on the
3d of April following, Mr. Thomas Douglas formally opened the
long delayed and much needed school, for the instruction of the
youth of both sexes. This was the first public seminary estab-
lished in San Francisco.

October 20th. — A severe Noi-tlier visited the harbor which
did considerable damage to the shipping. Similar furious gales
have since been experienced every year, when more or less loss
has been occasioned to the shipping and to the wharves them-
selves. The exposure to excessive winds from the north and south-
east is one of the most serious drawbacks to the safety and con-
venience of the port. The extension of the city, in late years,
over the waters of Yerba Buena Cove, has increased the liabihty
of vessels to damage during the prevalence of these winds.

November 15th. — " The Steamboat/' — being the only one it
had no distinct name, — performed an experimental trip round
" Wood Island." This was but a small concern which had been
brought by Mr. Leidesdorfi" from Sitka. It was the first vessel of
the kind in San Francisco Bay, and was quite a pet or plaything
in its way. Two days afterwards " the steamboat " sailed for
Santa Clara. In February following it was lost in a Norther.

November 18th. — The first " Thanksgiving Day " celebra-
ted in New England style. Public worship was performed at the

198 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO,

house of Mr. Lincoln. The " Sons of New England " afterwards
had a public dinner.

December 31st. — The following statistics show the extent of
the commerce of San Francisco for the three months ending this
day : —

Total value of exports, $49,597.53 ; imports, $53,589.73.
Of the amount of exports, $30,353.85, represent the native pro-
duce of California, and were shipped as follows : — To the Sand-
wich Islands, $320 ; Peru, $21,448.35; Ma zatlan, $560 ; Sitka,
$7,285.50 ; Tahiti, $700. The other exports, amounting to
$19,343.68, were the produce of foreign countries, and were ship-
ped as foUows :— $2,060 to the United States ; $12,442.18 (of
which $11,340 were coined gold and silver), to the Sandwich Isl-
ands ; and $4,831.50 to Mazatlan. The imports came from the
following countries : — United States, $6,790.54 ; Oregon, $7,-
701.59 ; Chili, $3,676.44 ; Sandwich Islands, $31,740.73 ; Sit-
ka, $2,471.32 ; Bremen, $550.54 ; and Mexico, $160.

CHAPTER V.

1848.

Resolutions concerning gambling. — Public sale of City Property. — Price Current published. — Condi-
tion and population of the town. — Overland express to Independence, Mo. — George Hyde, al-
calde, resigned, and succeeded by Dr. J. Townsend. — Death of Wm. A. LeidesdorfF. — Discovery
of gold, and immediate effects. — Illumination in celebration of the peace between Mexico and
the United States. — Dr. T. M. Leavenworth elected alcalde. — First brick house. — Public meeting
to regulate the price of gold dust. — First square-rigged vessel discharged at Broadway wharf. —
Judicial limits of the town. — Eev. T. D. Hunt chosen chaplain. — First issue of the " Star and
Cahfornian." — State of the markets. — Public meeting to organize a Provisional Government. —
New town council elected. — Election declared invalid. — Duties collected at the Custom-House

January 11th. — Stringent resolutions were passed by the
council regarding gambling. This vice had been growing in
popular favor, and at this period and for years afterwards, be-
came one of the leading characteristics of the inhabitants. Be-
sides heavily fining parties engaged in gambling, one of the
resolutions authorized the authorities " to seize for the benefit of
the town all the money found on a gambling table where cards
are played." If this had been in force a short time afterwards,
when the gold discoveries had enriched thousands, and the reck-
less miners hurried to San Francisco to spend their gains in the
great public gaming saloons of the period, the town in a single
night would have become wealthy. But at the next meeting of
the council these resolutions were all repealed.

March 5th. — A great public sale took place by the town of
some of its real estate. The preferable lots had already been
secured by speculators, under the old regulations, at a nominal
price, by private arrangement with the alcalde. The prices ob-
tained at this sale do not show much advance in the value of
town property, since the lots only brought from sixteen to fifty
dollars, averaging about twenty-two dollars and fifty cents each
for fifty-two lots. It is certain, however, that the value of desi-

200 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

rable locations was immensely higher than this ; and the citizens,
from their eagerness in getting up houses, and the high prices of
labor and building materials, seem to have been satisfied on this
subject. The population of the town was fast improving.

March 15th. — As a sign of the times, a weekly wholesale
price-current was first published in San Francisco in the columns
of the " Californian" of this date. In the " California Star," of
the 18th instant, likewise appeared a similar document, and re-
marks on the state of the market, for the first time.

About this period the population of the town was ascertained
by the Board of School Trustees, in canvassing the place for edu-
cational purposes, to be, 575 male and 177 female adults, and 60
children of ages to attend school, making a total of 812. Adding
the number of infants and children still too young to attend
school, the whole number of inhabitants amounted to about 850.
The buildings of all kinds numbered 200. There were two large
hotels in the place, besides boarding and public houses, and
houses attached to ten-pin alleys, billiard saloons, &c. ; so that
the town was becoming one of some consequence, and was assum-
ing the pretensions and attractions of older, wealthier and more
populous communities. Two wharves were in the course of con-
struction, and extensive stores and warehouses had been erected.
There were twelve mercantile houses established, consisting of
agencies for large firms in the East and in the Sandwich Islands,
auction and commission houses, and importers from the United
States direct. The facilities for discharging ships and filling
them anew with cargo, were rapidly increasing. There was
much bustle, and even enthusiasm among the inhabitants, which
promised a flattering future to the town. Current expenses were
too high to prevent immediate fortunes being made ; still most
persons in business beheved they were laying the firm foundations
of early wealth.

April 1st.— The "Cahfornia Star Express" left San Fran-
cisco, to proceed overland to Independence, Mo. The passage
was guaranteed to be accomplished in sixty days. Fifty cents
was charged as the postage on single letters.

April 3d. — The first pubhc school was opened. Dr. J.
Townsend was also sworn in before the council, as first alcalde,

EFFECTS OF THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD. 201

vice George Hyde, resigned. Serious complaints had been made
in regard to Mr. Hyde's conduct in office, which, being rei^orted
to Governor Mason, led to a formal inquiry on the subject.
Some nine or ten charges of a criminal nature were made against
the former alcalde, only two of which were ultimately held to be
established by proof. These, in the whole circumstances of the
case, seemed insufficient to warrant His Excellency to remove
Mr. Hyde from office. But as popular clamor was somewhat
loud and vexatious on the matter, that gentleman thought fit to
resign his trust.

May 18th. — Mr. Wm. A. Leidesdorff died of the brain
fever. This gentleman was the United States vice-consul at San
Francisco, and was closely connected with all the interests of the
place. His decease was much regretted by the town's people, a
large number of whom attended in his funeral procession. All
places of business and entertainment were closed on the occasion,
the flags at the barracks and of the vessels in port hung at half-
mast during the day ; while minute guns were fired as the burial
train moved on towards the Mission Dolores, in the church-
yard of which place the body was interred. Mr. Leidesdorff was
of Danish extraction, and of the Roman Catholic religion. He
had been nearly nine years in business in San Francisco, and
was about thirty-six years old. The property he left was of con-
siderable value at the time of his death, (though heavily bur-
dened with debts ;) while, as much of it consisted of real estate,
on which the growing city afterwards spread, its value at this
date is immense. The deceased left no legal heirs on the spot,
and his estate was administered by Mr. Wm. D. M. Howard,
under authority of the alcalde, for behoof of all concerned.
Much litigation, among parties claiming to be administrators, or
heirs or assignees of heirs of the deceased, afterwards resulted,
which it is believed is not yet fairly ended. The law proceedings
and history of the estate generally form quite an event in the
annals of the town, and deserve a more particular notice, which
will be given in a subsequent chapter.

The promising state of things in San Francisco shortly be-
fore described was now to be suddenly checked by means which,
unpromising at first, ultimately led to the most extraordinary

202 AXXALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

prosperity in the city. Early in the spring of tkis year, occa-
sional intelligence had been received of the finding of gold in
large quantities among the foot hills of the Sierra Nevada, the
particulars of which discovery we have already given. Small
parcels of the precious metal had also been forwarded to San
Francisco, while visitors from the mines, and some actual diggers
arrived, to tell the wonders of the region and the golden gains of
those engaged in exploring and working it. In consequence of
such representations, the inhabitants began gradually, in bands
and singly, to desert their previous occupations, and betake
themselves to the American Kiver and other auriferous parts of
the great Sacramento valley. Labor, from the deficiency of
hands, rose rapidly in value, and soon all business and work, ex-
cept the most urgent, was forced to be stopped. Seamen deserted
from their ships in the bay and soldiers from the barracks.
Over all the country the excitement was the same. Neither
threats, punishment nor money could keep men to their most
solemn engagements. Gold was the irresistible magnet that drew
human souls to the place where it lay, rudely snapping asunder
the feebler ties of affection and duty. Avarice and the i8t\'erween-
ing desire to be suddenly rich, from whence sprang the hope and
moral certainty of being so, grew into a disease, and the infection
spread on all sides, and led to a general migration of every class
of the community to the golden quarters. The daily laborer,
who had worked for the good and at the command of another,
for one or two dollars a day, could not be restrained from flying
to the happy spot where he could earn six or ten times the
amount, and might possibly gain a hundred or even a thousand
times the sum iu one lucky day's chance. Then the life, at
worst, promised to be one of continual adventure and excitement,
and the miner was his own master. While this was the case
with the common laborer, his employer, wanting his services, sud-
denly found his occujDation at an end ; while shopkeepers and the
like, dependent on both, discovered themselves in the same pre-
dicament. The glowing tales of the successful miners all the
while reached their ears, and threw their own steady and large
gains comparatively in the shade. They therefore could do no
better, in a pecuniary sense even, for themselves, than to hasten

EFFECTS OF THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD.

203

after their old servants, and share in their new labor and its ex-
traordinary gains, or pack up their former business stock, and
travelling with it to the mines, open their new stores and shops
and stalls, and dispose of their old articles to the fortunate dig-
gers, at a rise of five hundred or a thousand per cent.

Eush for the gold regions.

In the month of May it was computed that, at least one
hundred and fifty people had left San Francisco, and every day
since was adding to their number. Some were occasionally re-
turning from the auriferous quarter ; but they had little time to
stop and expatiate upon what they had seen. They had hastily
come back, as they had hastily gone away at first, leaving their
household and business to waste and ruin, now to fasten more
properly their houses, and remove goods, family and all, at once
to the gold region. Their hurried movements, more even than
the words they uttered, excited the curiosity and then the eager
desire of others to accompany them. And so it was. Day after

204 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

day the bay was covered with launches filled with the inhabitants
and their goods, hastening up the Sacramento. This state of
matters soon came to a head ; and master and man alike hur-
ried to the placeres, leaving San Francisco, like a place where
the jilague reigns, forsaken by its old inhabitants, a melancholy
solitude.

On the 29th of May the " Californian " published a fly-sheet,
apologizing for the future non-issue of the paper, until better
days came, when they might expect to retain their servants for
some amount of remuneration, which at present was impossible,
as all, from the " subs " to the " devil," had indignantly rejected
every offer, and gone ofi" to the diggings. " The whole country,"
said the last editorial of the paper, "from San Francisco to
Los Angeles, and from the sea shore to the base of the Sierra
Nevada, resounds with the sordid cry of gold ! gold ! ! GOLD ! ! !
— while the field is left half planted, the house half built, and
every thing neglected but the manufacture of shovels and pick-
axes, and the means of transportation to the spot where one man
obtained one hundred and twenty-eight dollars' worth of the real
stuff in one day's washing, and the average for all concerned is
twenty dollars per diem ! "

On the 14th of June the " California Star " likewise ceased.
In the explanatory fly-sheet, the editor simply and sadly said,
that his paper " could not be made by magic, and the labor of
mechanism was as essential to its existence as to all other arts."
And as every body was deserting him, why, the press and the pa-
per stopped together — that was all.

July 15th. — The "Californian" revives, and promises an
occasional paper, if that can be managed. It gives this day the
first intelligence of the French revolution, under the alarming
head, " The whole world at war ! " though little did the gold-
diggers and the speculative traders in San Francisco care about
that. It chronicles likewise the observance of another " slorious
fourth " which was held in the town as spiritedly as the few re-
maining inhabitants could manage. The rest of the news, and
many of the advertisements were about the mines and gold.
The city itself afibrded few items of intelligence, except the con-
tinued desertion of the place, and the high and increasing prices

PRICE OF GOLD DUST ESTABLISHED. 205

of labor. The council had not met for two months ; and its
members, with many officials of the town, had all " gone to the
diggings."

July 25th. — Governor Mason issued a proclamation calling
on the people to assist the authorities in apprehending deserters,
who had now become very numerous from both the army and
navy service.

July 31st. — His Excellency consents to receive gold dust in
payment of duties at the custom-house at a low rate, with right
of redemption of the whole by the payer, within one hundred
and eighty days, or of the half within ninety days, upon giving
the proper amount in gold or silver coin. Several public meet-
ings have been held on this subject, in which the community was
much interested.

August 11th. — A second grand illumination. This time it
was in celebration of the peace between Mexico and the United
States, the official news of which reached Monterey on the 6th
instant. In the early part of the day guns were fired on all
sides, from the presidio and barracks, ships in harbor, and by
every youngster on shore who happily owned, or could buy, bor-
row, or steal a little gunpowder and a fire-arm, from a musket
to a rusty key with a priming-hole filed across the barrel. A
cavalcade of citizens proceeded through the streets. In the
evening, the windows of every house remaining inhabited were
illuminated, many of them brilliantly. Tar barrels and bonfires
blazed on all sides. Squibs, crackers and pistols boomed ofi" in
harmony with the general rejoicing.

August 29th. — Dr. T. M. Leavenworth elected first alcalde.

September 6th.— The first brick house was erected by Mel-
ius & Howard, at the corner of Montgomery and Clay streets.
This was the second brick building erected in Upper California,
one having been previously constructed at Monterey.

September 9th. — A great public meeting was held to con-
sider how best to fix the price of gold dust at a certain reason-
able amount, to pass as a currency in the country, during the
scarcity of coin, and until a branch mint could be established.
This was supposed to be the largest meeting that had ever as-
sembled in San Francisco, most of the old inhabitants having

206

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

returned for a season from the mines. Dr. T. M. Leavenworth
was called to the chair, and Mr. J. D. Hoppe appointed secre-

San Francisco, Winter of 1S48.

tary. The meeting unanimously decided and resolved that six-
teen dollars an ounce was a fair price for gold dust, and that it
ought to be taken in all business transactions at that rate. A
committee was also appointed to urge upon Congress the imme-
diate establishment of a branch mint at San Francisco.

This month a square-rigged vessel (the brig Belfast, from
New York,) first discharged a cargo at Broadway wharf The
price of goods consequently fell twenty-five •per cent., while real
estate rose from fifty to one hundred per cent. A vacant lot at
the corner of Montgomery and Washington streets was offered
the day previous to the opening of the wharf for five thousand
dollars, but there were no buyers. The next day the same lot
sold readily at ten thousand dollars. This shows how property
was beginning to be affected by the improvement of the town.

October 3d. — At a second election, Dr. T. M. Leavenworth
was again chosen first alcalde. B. R. Buckelew and Barton
Mowrey were also elected town councillors. One hundred and
fifty-eight votes were polled.

STATE OF THE MARKETS. 207

October 9th. — First meeting of the town council since May
last. At an adjourned meeting held on the 11th, it was resolved
that the limits of the town for the administration of justice
should be as follows, viz. : " That the line shall commence at the
mouth of Creek Guadalupe, where it empties into the Bay of
San Francisco, following the course of said stream to its head
waters ; from thence a due west line to the Pacific Ocean ;
thence northwards along the coast to the inlet to the harbor of
the bay ; thence eastwardly, through the middle of the s'aid inlet
into the Bay of San Francisco, and embracing the entire anchor-
age ground from the inlet to the mouth of the Creek Guada-
lupe."

November 1st, — No regular church had hitherto been estab-
lished ; but nearly every Sunday, for a long period back, occa-
sional religious services had been performed by clergymen of
various denominations ; or, in their absence, by some serious
minded layman. This day, the Rev. T. D. Hunt, who had been
invited from Honolulu, was chosen Protestant chaplain to the
citizens, and an annual salary of two thousand five hundred
dollars appropriated to him, to be defrayed out of the subscrip-
tions of various town's people. Divine worship on Sundays to
take place in the Public Institute, (school-house,) Portsmouth
Square.

November 18th. — The " Californian," havino- been bought
up by the proprietors of the " California Star," a new paper,
similar in appearance to both these, and virtually a continuation
of the latter, which had stopped five months before, was issued
this day under the title, " The Star and Californian."

December. — The markets, as might be expected, were very
high about this time, though prices fluctuated considerably. On
the 1st of this' month, flour was twenty-seven dollars a barrel,
beef twenty, pork sixty ; butter was ninety cents a pound, and
cheese seventy. Two weeks later, flour sold at from twelve to
fifteen dollars a barrel, while other ai'ticles had fallen in propor-
tion. Brandy was in demand at eight dollars a gallon, and gold
dust dull of sale at ten dollars and a half an ounce.

December 12th. — The public school, after having been closed
for many months during the gold-mania, re-opened. Rates of
tuition were announced to be eigjht dollars a term.

208 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

Decembee 21st and 23d. — Great public meetings were held,
(Dr. Townsend in the chair,) regarding the propriety, and grow-
ino- necessity of immediately organizing a provisional government.
For some time back, much public agitation had existed on this
subject. The frequent murders and other daring outrages com-
mitted of late in different parts of the country, especially at the
mines, while there was no proper legal protection for the lives and
property of the citizens, had forced the people to conclude that
Congress had been trifling with them in delaying the long pro-
posed constitution — that there was no more time to wait — and
therefore that instant steps should be taken to establish a form
of government for themselves. At these meetings resolutions
were j^assed to the above effect, and five delegates appointed to
be chosen at a subsequent public meeting, to represent the town
and district at a general convention to be held at San Jose, in
March next, for the purpose of framing a form of constitution.
A meeting to the same effect had been held at San Jose on the
11th instant, which had fixed the assembling of the convention
so early as the 2d of January following, and similar meetings
were beginning to be called all over the country.

December 27th. — The following gentlemen were elected as
town council, or ayuntamiento, for 1849, viz. : Stephen C. Harris,
Wm. D. M. Howard, George C. Hubbard, Kobert A. Parker,
Thomas J. Eoach, John Sirrine, and John Townsend — the last
of whom was chosen president. The number of votes polled was
three hundred and forty-seven.

December 28th, 29th and 30th. — Various meetings were
held of the old town council, which ended in its resolving that
the election of the 27th instant was invalid, owing to the votes
of a small number of unqualified parties having been received ;
and a new election was ordered for the 15 th proximo.

The duties collected at the custom-house, during 1848, were
as follows : — First quarter, |1 1,931 ; second quarter, $8,835 ;
third quarter, $74,827 ; fourth quarter, $100,480. The value
of imported goods during the year was about one million of dol-
lars. Coin was also imported to about the same amount. Gold
dust to the value of two millions of dollars was exported in the
last six months of 1848. A few years later as great a quantity
was exported by every semi-monthly mail.

CHAPTER VI.

1848-1849.

€r«neral Effects of the Gold Discoveries.

While San Francisco, like so many other parts of the country,
was forsaken in the manner described in the foregoing chapter,
the neio'hhorhood of the American River was overflowino- with
people, all busily engaged in gold hunting. The miners by the
middle of May were estimated to be about two thousand. In
another month they had increased probably to three ; and, two
months later, their number was supposed to be about six thou-
sand. From that period the arrival of persons at the different
auriferous districts, which were known to extend over a large
space of territory, was constant ; but no sufficient materials
existed to form a correct opinion of their total number. The
vast majority of all the laboring classes in the country had cer-
tainly deserted their former pursuits, and had become miners,
while a great many others — merchants and their clerks, shop-
keepers and their assistants, lawyers, surgeons, officials in every
department of the State, of the districts and in the towns, run-
away seamen and soldiers, and a great variety of nondescript
adventurers — likewise began the search for gold. The miners
were by no means exclusively American. They consisted of
every kindred and clan. There were already tame Indians,
Mexicans from Sonora, Kanakas from the Sandwich Islands,
settlers from Oregon, mixed with the usual dash of Spanish,
British, German and French adventurers that had for a long
time existed in California. Later months were to bring other
Mexicans, Chinese, Peruvians, and Chilians, and all these before
the great impending immigration of Americans and Europeans.
14

210 ANNALS or SAN FRANCISCO.

At first the general gains of the miners, though great, were
little compared to what shortly afterwards were collected. But
any jiositive statement on this matter is naturally subject to
error, since none could personally know more than what was
taking place around the scene of his own operations, or where he
was immediately travelling. If, however, we compare different
accounts, and endeavor to form from them something like a fair
averajre, we midit find that from ten to fifteen dollars worth of
gold dust was about the usual proceeds of an ordinary day's
hard work. But while that might have been the average, people
listened more to the individual instances of extraordinary success.
Well authenticated accounts described many known persons as
averaging from one to two hundred dollars a day for a long
period. Numerous others were said to be earning even from
five to eight hundred dollars a day. A piece of four pounds in
weight was early found. If, indeed, in many cases, a man with
a pick and pan did not easily gather some thirty or forty dollars
worth of dust in a single day, he just moved off to some other
place which he supposed might be richer. When the miners
knew a little better about the business and the mode of turnino;
their labor to the most profitable account, the returns were
I correspondingly increased. At what were called the " dry dig-
gings " particularly, the yield of gold was enormous. One piece
of pure metal was found of thirteen pounds weight. The com-
mon instrument at first made use of was a simple butcher's
knife ; and as every thing was valuable in proportion to the
demand and supply, butchers' knives suddenly went up to
twenty and thirty dollars apiece. But afterwards the pick and
shovel were employed. The auriferous earth, dug out of ravines
and holes in the sides of the mountains, was packed on horses,
and carried one, two, or three miles, to the nearest water, to be
washed. An average price of this washing dirt was, at one
period, so much as four hundred dollars a cart load. In one
instance, five loads of such earth sold for seven hundred and
fifty-two dollars, which yielded, after washing, sixteen thousand
dollars. Cases occurred where men carried the earth in sacks on
their backs to the watering places, and collected eight to fifteen
hundred dollars in a day, as the proceeds of their labor. Indi-

EFFECTS OF THE GOLD DISCOVERIES. 211

viduals made their five thousand, ten thousand, and fifteen thou-
sand dollars in the space of only a few weeks. One man dug
out twelve thousand dollars in six days. Three others obtained
eight thousand dollars in a single day. But these, of course,
were extreme cases. Still it was undoubtedly true, that a large
proportion of the miners were earning such sums as they had
never even seen in their lives before, and which, six months earlier,
would have appeared a downright fable. When the " Cahfor-
nian " newspaper resumed its issue in July, the editors said, that
the j)ublisher of the paper, "when on a tour alone to the
mining district," (probably in June,) " collected, with the aid of
a shovel, pick and tin pan, about twenty inches in diameter,
from forty-four to one hundred and twenty-eight dollars a day,
averaging one hundred dollars." This is a fair specimen of the
moderately fortunate miner.

The story has a shady as well as a bright side, and would
be incomplete unless both were shown. There happened to be
a " sickly season " in the autumn at the mines ; and many of
the miners sank under fever and diseases of the bowels. A
severe kind of labor, to which most had been unaccustomed, a
complete change of diet and habits, insufficient shelter, continued
mental excitement, and the excesses in personal amusement and
dissipation which golden gains induced, added to the natural
unhealthiness that might have existed in the district at different
periods of the year, soon introduced sore bodily troubles upon
many of the mining population. No gains could compensate a
dying man for the fatal sickness engendered by his own avari-
cious exertions. In the wild race for riches, the invalid was
neglected by old comrades still in rude health and the riotous
enjoyment of all the pleasures that gold and the hope of continu-
ally adding to their store could bestow. When that was the
case with old companions it could not be expected that strangers
should care whether the sick man lived or died. Who forsooth
among the busy throng would trouble himself Avith the feeble
miner that had miscalculated his energies, and lay dying on the
earthen floor of his tent or under the protecting branch of a
tree ? There were no kind eyes to gaze mournfully on him,
hearts to feel, lips to speak softly, and hands to minister to his

212 ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

wants. His gains were swept away to buy a hasty and careless
medical attendance ; and too generally he died " unwept, un-
knclled, unknown." Selfishness that heeded not the dying
might perchance bury the dead, if only the corrupting corpse
stood in the way of working a rich claim — scarcely otherwise.
Many, not so far reduced, were compelled to return to their old
homes, the Hving spectres of their former selves, broken in con-
stitution and wearied in spirit ; thoroughly satisfied that the
diggings were not fit abiding places for them.

The implements at first used in the process of gold seeking^
were only the common pick and shovel, and a tin pan or wooden
bowl. The auriferous earth when dug out was put into the last,
and water being mixed with it, the contents were violently stirred.
A peculiar shake of the hand or wrist, best understood and
learned by practice, threw occasionally over the edge of the pan
or bowl the muddy water and earthy particles, while the metal,
being heavier, sunk to the bottom. Eepeated washings of this
nature, assisted by breaking the hard pieces of earth with the
hand or a trowel, soon extricated the gold from its covering aild
carried away all the dirt. But if even these simple implements
were not to be had, a sailor's or butcher's knife, or even a sharp-
ened hard-pointed stick could pick out the larger specimens — the
pepitas, chimJcs, or nuggets, of different miners — while the finer
scales of gold could be washed from the covering earth in Indian
willow-woven baskets, clay cups, old hats, or any rude apology
for a dish ; or the dried sand could be exposed on canvas to the
wind, or dihgently blown by the breath, until nothing was left
but the particles of pure gold that were too heavy to be carried
away by these operations. Afterwards the rocker or cradle and
Long Tom were introduced, wliich required several hands to feed
and work them ; and the returns by which were correspondingly
great. Every machine, however, was worked on the same prin-
ciple, by rocking or washing, of separating by the mechanical
means of gravitation, the heavier particles — the gold from stones,
and the fighter ones of earth. .

Provisions and necessaries, as might have been expected, soon
rose in price enormously. At first the rise was moderate indeed,
four hundred per cent, for flour, and five hundred for beef cattle,

EFFECTS OF THE GOLD DISCOVERIES.

213

while other things were in iiroportion. But these were trifles.
The time soon came when eggs were sold at one, two, and three
dollars apiece ; inferior sugar, tea, and coffee, at four dollars a
pound in small quantities, or, three or four hundred dollars a
barrel ; medicines — say, for laudanum, a dollar a drop, (actuall\
forty dollars were paid for a dose of that quantity,) and It]-:

A Miniii'' "-cone.

dollars a pill or purge, without advice, or wuth it, from thirty,
up, aye, to one hundred dollars. Spirits were sold at various
prices, from ten to forty dollars a quart ; and wines at about as
much per bottle. Picks and shovels ranged from five to fifteen
dollars each ; and common wooden or tin bowls about half as
much. Clumsy rockers were sold at from fifty to eighty dollars,
and small gold scales, from twenty to thirty. As for beef, little
of it was to be had, and then only jerked, at correspondingly
high prices. For luxuries — of which there were not many ; if a
lucky miner set his heart on some trifle, it might be pickles.

214 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

fruit fresh pork, sweet butter, new vegetables, a box of seidlitz
powders or of matches, he was prepared to give any quantity of
the "dust" rather than be balked. We dare not trust ourselves
to name some of the fancy prices thus given, lest we should bo
supposed to be only romancing. No man would give another a
hand's turn for less than five dollars ; while a day's constant
labor of the commonest kind, if it could have been procured at
all would cost from twenty to thirty dollars, at least. When
these things, and the risks of sickness, the discomforts of living,
and the unusual and severe kind of labor are all balanced against
the average gains, it may appear that, after all, the miners were
only enough paid.

About the end of May we left San Francisco almost a desert
place, and such it continued during the whole summer and
autumn months. Many ships with valuable cargoes had mean-
while arrived in the bay, but the seamen deserted. The goods at
great expense had been somehow got landed, but there was no-
body to take care of them, or remove them from the wharves
where they lay exposed to the weather, and blocking up the way.
The merchants who remained were in a feverish bustle. They
were selUng goods actually arrived at high prices, and could get
no hands to assist them in removing and delivering the articles.
By and bye, some of the miners came back to their old homes ;
but most of them were emaciated, feeble and disjointed. Here,
therefore, as at the mines, the prices of labor and all necessaries
rose exceedingly. The common laborer, who had formerly l)een
content with his doUar a day, now proudly refused ten ; the me-
chanic, who had recently been glad to receive two dollars, now
rejected twenty for his day's sei-vices. It w^as certainly a great
country, this — there was no mistake about it ; and ^very subject
was as lofty, independent, and seemingly as rich as a king. No
money indeed could now buy the servile labor of many persons
who had lately been glad to receive the meanest employment ;
and thus many necessary acts, and much manual business had
to be done by principals themselves, or not done at all. Keal es-
tate, meanwhile, had rapidly advanced in value, and generall\
was considered worth from five to ten times its former price.
Within the first eight weeks after the " diggings " had beeu

EFFECTS OF THE GOLD DISCOVERIES. 215

fairly known, two hundred and fifty thousand dollars had reached
San Francisco in gold dust, and within the next eight weeks, six
hundred thousand more. These sums were all to purchase, at
any price, additional supplies for the mines. Coin grew scarce,
and all that was in the country was insufficient to satisfy the in-
creased wants of commerce in one town alone. Gold dust, there-
fore, soon became a circulating medium, and after some little de-
mur at first, was readily received hy all classes at sixteen dol-
lars an ounce. The authorities, however, would only accept it in
payment of customs duties at ten dollars per ounce, with the
privilege of redemption, by payment of coin, within a limited
time.

When subsequently immigrants began to arrive in numerous
bands, any amount of labor could be obtained, provided always a
most unusually high price was paid for it. Keturned diggers, and
those who cautiously had never went to the mines, were then also
glad enough to work for rates vaiying from twelve to thirty dollars
a day ; at which terms most capitahsts were somewhat afraid to
commence any heavy undertaking. The hesitation was only for
an instant. Soon all the labor that could possibly be procured,
was in ample request, at whatever rates were demanded. The
population of a great State was suddenly flocking in upon them,
and no preparations had hitherto been made for its reception.
Building lots had to be surveyed, and streets graded and planked
— hills levelled — hollows, lagoons, and the bay itself piled, capped,
filled up and planked — lumber, bricks, and all other building ma-
terials, provided at most extraordinarily high prices — houses built,
finished and furnished — great warehouses and stores erected —
wharves run far out into the sea — numberless tons of goods re-
moved from shipboard, and delivered and shipped anew every
where — and ten thousand other things had all to be done without
a moment's unnecessary delay. Long before these things were
completed, the sand-hills and barren ground around the town
were overspread with a multitude of canvas, blanket and bough-
covered tents, — the bay was alive with shipping and small craft
carrying passengers and goods backwards and forwards, — the un-
planked, ungraded, unformed streets, (at one time moving heaps
of dry sand and dust ; at another, miry abysses, whose treacher-

216 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

ous depths sucked in horse and dray, and occasionally man him-
self,) were crowded with human beings from every corner of the
universe and of every tongue — all excited and busy, plotting,
speaking, working, buying and selling town lots, and beach and
water lots, shiploads of every kind of assorted merchandise, the
ships themselves, if they could, — though that was not often, —
o-old dust in hundred weights, ranches square leagues in extent,
with their thousands of cattle — allotments in hundreds of con-
templated towns, already prettily designed and laid out, — on pa-
per, — and, in short, speculating and gambling in every branch
of modern commerce, and in many strange things peculiar to the
time and the place. And every body made money, and loas sud-
denly growing rich.

The loud voices of the eager seller and as eager buyer — the
laugh of reckless joy — the bold accents of successful speculation
— the stir and hum of active hurried labor, as man and brute,
horse and bullock, and their guides, struggled and managed
through heaps of loose rubbish, over hills of sand, and among de-
ceiving deep mud pools and swamps, filled the amazed newly ar-
rived immigrant with an almost appalling sense of the exuberant
Ufe, energy and enterprise of the place. He breathed quick and
faintly — his limbs grew weak as water — and his heart sunk with-
in him as he thought of the dreadful conflict, when he ap-
proached and mingled among that confused and terrible business
battle.

Gambhng saloons, glittering hke fairy palaces, like them sud-
denly sprang into existence, studding nearly all sides of the plaza,
and every street in its neighborhood. As if intoxicating drinks
from the well plenished and splendid bar they each contained
were insufficient to gild the scene, music added its loudest, if not
its sweetest charms ; and all was mad, feverish mirth, where for-
tunes were lost and won, upon the green cloth, in the twinkling
of an eye. All classes gambled in those days, from the starched
white neck-clothed professor of rehgion to the veriest black rascal
that earned a dollar for })lackening massa's boots. Nobody had
leisure to think even for a moment of his occupation, and how
it was viewed in Christian lands. The heated brain was never
allowed to get cool while a bit of coin or dust was left. These

EFFECTS OF THE GOLD DISCOVERIES. 217

saloons, therefore, were crowded, night and day, by impatient
revellers who never could satiate themselves with excitement, nor
get rid too soon of their golden heaps.

We are, however, anticipating and going ahead too fast. We
cannot help it. The very thought of that wondrous time is an
electric spark that fires into one great flame all our fancies, pas-
sions and experiences of the fall of the eventful year, 1849.
The remembrance of those days comes across us like the delirium
of fever ; we are caught by it before we are aware, and forthwith
b^in to babble of things which to our sober Atlantic friends
seem more the ravings of a madman, than plain, dull realities.
The world had perhaps never before afforded such a spectacle ;
and probably nothing of the kind will be witnessed again for
generations to come. Happy the man who can tell of those
things which he saw and perhaps himself did, at San Francisco,
at that time. He shall be an oracle to admiring neighbors. A
city of twenty or thirty thousand inhabitants improvised — the
people nearly all adult males, strong in person, clever, bold, san-
guine, restless and reckless But really we must stop now,

and descend to our simple " annals."

CHAPTER VII.

1849.

The Alta California newspaper established. — Delegates elected to the proposed convention to be held
at San Jos6. — New town council elected. — Three town councils at one time. — Meeting of the con-
vention to frame a civil government postponed. — Public meeting respecting the conflicting coun
cils. — Public meeting concerning negro slavery. — Town councils resigned, and legislative assembly
chosen. — Arrival of the steamship California. — Address of delegates to civil government con
vention. — Arrival of steamship Oregon, and Col. John "W. Geary with the first United States
mails. — General Eiley announced territorial governor. — Acts of the legislative assembly and of the
governor. — Meetings concerning municipal and State governments. — Growth, population and gen-
eral prosperity of the city. — Gambling and other vices and crimes.

January 4th. — " The Star and Californian " is dropped, and
the " Alta California," a weekly newspaper of the same character
and appearance, and pubUshed by the same parties, is issued in
its stead.

January 8th. — Election of delegates to the proposed con-
vention at San Jose, in conformity with the resolutions of the
public meeting of 23d ultimo, when Wm. M. Stewart, Francis J.
Lippitt, Elbert P. Jones, Myi'on Norton and John A. Patterson
were chosen.

January 15th. — New election of town council, which result-
ed in the choice of Stephen C. Harris, Lazarus Everhart, Ste-
phen A. Wright, Daniel Starts, Isaac Montgomery, John Sir-
rine, and C. E. Wetmore. Mr. Sirrine was appointed president.

There were at this period three town councils in San Francis-
co, viz. : — the old one of 1848, not yet dissolved, and those elect-
ed on the 27th December and 15th January respectively. The
former of the two last insisted that the council of the previous
year had expired the very day of its own election on the 27th
December, and therefore the members met and transacted busi-
ness as if it alone represented the town. A majority of the old
council, however, insisted on continuing in office till those whom

MUNICIPAL AND STATE GOVEKNMENTS, -219

they considered their proper successors were chosen, and accord-
ingly, they supported the council elected on the 15th January,
and resolved to transfer the municipal records into its hands.
The citizens generally seemed adverse to the pretensions of the
• Jd council, as scarcely a fourth part of the numbers that voted
I'll the 27th December voted on the second election of the 15th
January. Strong party and personal feehngs existed among the
inhabitants at this time. The alcalde, T. M. Leavenworth, and
his official acts, among other subjects of contention, were vigor-
ously attacked by one party, and as strenuously defended by the
other.

January 24th. — The corresponding committee for the Dis-
trict of San Francisco, on the suggestion of the delegates chosen
at Monterey, recommend a postponement of the assembhng of
the convention for framing a civil government to the first day of
May, in order to give the southern districts sufficient time to elect
delegates and appear at the convention. The movement for the
election of such delegates is general over the country, as the peo-
ple are satisfied that the present state of civil disorganization cannot
safely be longer permitted.

February. — It was estimated that the population was now
about two thousand.

February 12th. — Pubhc meeting of citizens to consider the
anomalous position of two town councils existing and acting, in-
dependently of each other, at the same time. Myron Korton
was called upon to preside, and T. W. Perkins to act as secretary.
George Hyde submitted a plan of municipal organization and
government, which was adopted by the meeting ; and resolutions
were passed recj^uesting the members of both councils to resign,
and appointing an election of fifteen town councillors and thi'ee
justices of the peace, to take place on the 21st instant.

February I7th and 24th. — Pubhc meetings to consider the
propriety of instructing the delegate's to the convention of the
1st of May to oppose any incipient act that might tend to the
introduction of negro slavery into California, Capt. J. L. Folsom
was chosen president, and B. R. Buckelew secretary. It was
known that the whole delay of Congress in providing a territorial
government had arisen from the disputes, and the apparent im-

220 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

possibility of agreement between the two great political parties
on this subject. The inhabitants of the country itself might be
said to be unanimous against slavery in all shapes among them ;
and they were justly indignant that the Atlantic politicians
should pretend to dictate to them any thing on the matter. At
these meetings, resolutions were passed, instructing the delegates
of the San Francisco district, " by all honorable means to oppose
any act, measure, provision or ordinance that is calculated to fur-
ther the introduction of domestic slavery into the territory of
California."

February 21st. — In compliance with the wishes of the
meeting of the 12th instant, the members of both town councils
resigned their office^ and an election of fifteen members of a legis-
lative assembly and three justices of the peace took place this day,
which it was hoped would settle all disputes between the rival
partisans. The parties elected were as follows : —

Justices of the Peace.
Myron Norton, Theron R. Per Lee, Wm. ]\I. Stewart.

District Legislature.

Stephen A. Wright, Isaac JNIontgomery, Thomas J. Roach,

Alfred J. Elhs, Wm. M. Smith, Wm. F. Swasey,

Henry A. Harrison, Andrew J. Grayson, Francis J. Lippitt,

George C. Hubbard, James Creighton, George F. Lemon.

George Hyde, Robert A. Parker,

On the 5th proximo these gentlemen met, and chose various
officials ; but as the whole proceedings were afterwards set aside,
it is unnecessary here to detail more of them.

February 28th. — The steamship ^^ California," being the
first of the line of mail steamers along the coast, arrived. The
citizens hailed her appearance with many cheers and other de-
monstrations of joy. General Persifer F. Smith, a passenger on
this vessel, came to take command of the Pacific division of the
military department of the United States, which comprehends
Oregon and California.

March. — An address to the people of California was issued
by several of the delegates for San Francisco, Monterey, Sonoma,
Sacramento, and other parts of the country, recommending a
postponement of the meeting of the convention to frame a civil

MUNICIPAL AND STATE GOVERNMENTS. 221

government, to the first Monday of August, and that the place
of meeting be Monterey, instead of San Jose.

March 31st. — The Pacific mail steamsliip " Oregon " arrived
with about three hundred and fifty passengers, among whom were
Col. John W. Geary and family. Col. Geary had been appointed
postmaster for San Francisco, with powers to create post-offices
and appoint postmasters throughout the territory ; also to estab-
lish mail routes and make contracts for carrying the mails. He
was the bearer of despatches from the United States Government
to the commanders of the military and naval forces on the
Pacific, and brouoht with him the first regular mail from the
Atlantic States that was opened in San Francisco.

April 13th. — Order issued by Brigadier-General Bennet
Riley, announcing that he had assumed command of the tenth
military department of the United States, and the administration
<»f civil affairs in California.

June. — For the last six months, and particularly during the
last two, the public events of most consequence to San Francisco
resolve themselves into two divisions, viz. : the appointment of
proper district and municipal authorities, and the formation of a
State government. We have already chronicled several meetings
on both these heads ; but notwithstanding all that had been said
(.ir done, no common action could be obtained to promote the ends
in view to the satisfaction of all parties.

As regarded the municipal question, the recently appointed
legislative assembly abolished the office of alcalde, and substituted
the senior justice of the peace in his place. Afterwards, the
alcalde, Mr. Leavenworth, was ordered to give up the town docu-
ments and official papers in his hands ; upon which he appKed
for advice to General Smith, who recommended him not to com-
ply with the demands of the legislative assembly. That body
next ordered the election of a sheriff, who, when appointed, pro-
ceeded to take what he considered legal steps against Mr. Leaven-
worth, who had meanwhile resuscitated the old council of 1848,
to sanction and confirm his proceedings, which it readily did,
appealing to Governor Riley for advice and protection. The gov-
ernor, accordingly, on the 4tli of June, issued a proclamation to
the citizens, recognizing the office and power of the existing

222 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

alcalde, declaring the legislative assembly an illegal body, and
forbidding payment of taxes to them.

While that was the state of affairs regarding the municipahty
and District of San Francisco, the governor, on the 3d of June,
issued a proclamation to the people of California, in which, after
narrating the position of the country, and the necessity of both
district and general governments, he appointed the first day of
August for the election, first, of certain specified municipal and
district provisional officials over the whole country, according to
Mexican custom ; and second, of thirty-seven delegates to be
chosen from the specified districts, as delegates to a general con-
vention to be held at Monterey, on the first day of September
next, for the purpose of forming a State Constitution.

Following upon these proclamations, the people of San Fran-
cisco held a mass meeting in Portsmouth Square, on the 12th of
June, when Wm. M. Stewart was chosen president, and E. Gould
Bufium, secretary. This meeting was large and enthusiastic, and
after being addressed by several eloquent speakers, resolved that
the people of Cahfornia had a right to organize a government for
their own protection — that, therefore, delegates should be chosen
to frame a constitution — and that a committee of five be imme-
diately appointed by the president of the meeting to correspond
with the other districts of the country, in order to carry out in a
practical manner the said resolutions. The meeting refused to
recognize Governor Kiley's proclamations as binding on them.
The committee chosen consisted of Peter H. Burnett, Wm. D.
M. Howard, Myron Norton, E. Gould Bufi'um, and E. Gilbert.
This committee, on the 18th of June, issued an address to the
public, in which, without admitting the right or power in Gov-
ernor Kiley to " appoint " time or place for the election of dele-
gates and assembling of the convention, yet considered it best, as a
matter of expediency, to adopt the terms of the governor's pro-
clamation in these respects.

These steps settled the plan and course of future proceedings
so far as the State Government was concerned. In respect to
the municipality the legislative assembly published a long address
to their constituents, in answer to Governor Riley's proclamation
of the 3d, and the very " uncourteous and disrespectful " one of

CONDITION OF THE COUNTRY. 223

the 4th June. In this document, they resolved that they were
a legally constituted body, and declared their determination to
hold office and to act in the same until formally deprived of their
authority by the people from whom it was derived. Thus arose
a sort of civil war on a small scale. The assembly afterwards
having considered it expedient to appeal directly to the people, a
ballot was taken on the subject on the 9th July, when one hun-
dred and sixty-seven votes appeared for their continuance in office,
and only seven against it. But as this result showed either the
indifl'erence of the citizens on the subject, since but a small por-
tion of their number voted, or else their tacit desire that the
legislative assembly should altogether cease, that' body thought
fit, at last, to dissolve itself Thus the old alcalde, Mr. Leaven-
worth, was virtually reinstated in triumph, and no obstacle left
to the several elections ordered by Governor Kiley's proclamation
of the 3d of June. These various meetings and other proceedings
narrated may possess little interest for the present inhabitants of
San Francisco ; but they certainly much excited those who dwelt
in the town at the time of their occurrence. The excesses of the
" hounds/' fully described in a subsequent chapter, were much
encouraged by the dissensions and jealousies which existed among
the rival politicians and local partisans of those days.

During the first half of this year, San Francisco was rapidly
increasing the number of its houses and population. Every day
added sensibly to both. The mines were continuing to yield
large returns, most of which were immediately forwarded to San
Francisco, in exchange for new supplies. The bay was filling
with shipping from all the ports of the Pacific coast of botli
Americas, from the Sandwich Islands, and from China, Australia
and other ports towards the west. Nearly two hundred square-
rigged vessels lay at anchor about the end of July. Hosts of
passengers by these vessels, after staying but a little while in the
town, hurried ofi" to the diggings. Meanwhile, others who had
been fortunate were returning from the mines with bags of gold
dust, to squander in gambling, in drinking and aU manner of
thoughtless extravagance and dissipation. Gambling, which pre-
viously had been carried on to so great an extent, was now begin-
ning to be developed on a still larger scale. Saloons, at the

224

ANNALS OF SAN FKANCISCO.

public tables of which every variety of game was to be found,
arose in all quarters of the town, where play was carried on during
the whole twenty-four hours, and where the gross amount of
money or gold dust staked was enormous. It might almost be
said that the same spirit of gambling or speculation reigned in
every department of business ; and prices rose and fell, and for-

San Francisco, in 1849, fro;n heaii of Clay Street.

tunes were made, and lost, and made again, according to the
"play" of the parties engaged. New towns, all of course in
splendid locations, were beginning to be projected, and the build-
ing lots in them sold for immense sums of money. Sacramento
and Stockton were among the first and best needed of these
places ; and soon they took such positions as commanded success
and insured future prosperity. But besides these two cities, a
multitude of other and inferior places were projected, and while
the future of the whole country was uncertain, but over which
iiung a certain vague grandeur, their pretensions were very J
respectably set forth, and speculation in their allotments was
rife. Some of these schemes have since shared in the general
advancement of the country ; while of others probably nothing
again will ever be heard.

A short experience of the mines had satisfied most of the

CONDITION OF THE COUNTRY. 225

citizens of San Francisco that, in vulgar parlance, all was not
gold that glittered, and that hard work was not easy, — sorrj'
truisms for weak or lazy men. They returned very soon to their
old quarters, and found that much greater profits, with for less
labor, were to be found in supplying the necessities of the miners,
and speculating in real estate. For a time every body made
money, in spite of himself. The continued advance in the price
of goods, and especially in the value of real estate, gave riches at
once to the fortunate owner of a stock of the former or of a single
advantageously situated lot of the latter. When trade was
brisk, and profits so large, nobody grudged to pay any price, or
any rent, for a proper place of business. Coin was scarce, but
bags of gold dust furnished a circulating medium, which answered
all purposes. The gamblers at the public saloons staked such
bags, or were supplied with money upon them by the " banks,"
till the whole was exhausted. There were few resrular houses
erected, for neither building materials nor suflicient labor were
to be had ; but canvas tents, or houses of frame, served the im-
mediate needs of the place. Great quantities of goods continued
to pour in from the nearer ports, till there were no longer stores
to receive and cover them. In addition to Broadway Wharf,
Central Wharf was projected, subscribed for, and commenced.
Several other small wharves at landing-places were constructed
at the cost of private parties. All these, indeed, extended but a
little way across the mud flat in the bay, and were of no use at
low tide ; yet they gave considerable facilities for landing passen-
gers and goods in open boats. The different religious denomina-
tions were beginning to make movements as to creating churches
and appointing clergymen ; while the Freemasons and Odd-Fel-
lows were likewise beginning to take their characteristic first
steps. Seamen deserted their vessels, as a matter of course, so
soon as they dropped anchor in the bay, and hastened to the
mines. Society, not merely there, but in San Francisco, was in
a state of utter disorganization, which became worse and more
terrible as the autumn and winter months brought new thousands
of immigrants upon the place. We have seen that there was
neither a proper government for the State, nor recognized; mu-
nicipal authorities, who could have protected the citizens, and
15

226 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

established order, and made provision for the systematic extension
of the town and reception of the coming crowds. There was a
military governor, indeed, and martial law could have been
adopted, but the governor had not sufficient force at his com-
mand to curb the wild elements of the population ; nor, at best,
would his forcible interference have satisfied American ideas of
civil independence and the national privilege of self-government.
Thefts, robberies, murders, and other outrages of the most des-
perate and criminal nature were taking place, and there were no
proper officials to take cognizance of them, and bring the ofiend-
ers to justice. Every man was intent on merely making money,
and provided an outrage did not, in a direct manner, personally
or pecuniarily affect himself, he was content to shut his eyes to
the ultimate consequences.

By the beginning of 1849, the population of San Francisco
had increased to two thousand. Two months later it was proba-
bly about three thousand ; whilst in July, when the riots and
outrages of the " hounds" came to a height, it might be nearly
five thousand. This was what might be called the usual and
permanent population of the time — if any thing could be sup-
posed permanent in so frail and fluctuating a place, although
every day new arrivals of immigrants added temporarily to the
number, till they flocked ofi" to Sacramento, Stockton, and the
mines.

CHAPTER VIII.

1849.

The Hounds. — Election of Supreme Judge, delegates to convention, and municipal officers. — Al-
caide's address to the Ayuntamlento. — Duties of prefects. — The prison brig Eupbemia, and store-
ship Apollo. — Churches.— Regulations and appointments of tho Ayunlamiento. — The " Paciflo
News" commenced. — Meeting of the Constitution Convention at Monterey.— Merchants' Ex-
change. — Steam Navigation. — Death of Nathan Spear. —First democratic meeting. — Circus
opened. — Constitution approved and State officers elected. — First habitation on Rincon Point —
Tlianksgiving Day. — Judge Almond's court — The " Alta California," — First great fire.

July 15th, et seq. — The affair of the "hounds" came to au end.
This was an association of young men for the declared purpose
of assisting each other in sickness, or when peril of any kind
threatened any of the members. It had been imperfectly organ-
ized in the beginning of the year, and was virtually a gang of
public robbers. The members assumed a kind of military disci-
pline, under the guidance of regular leaders, who wore a uniform^
and occasionally, but only on Sundays, paraded the streets with
flags displayed and drum and fife playing. They attacked the
tents of inoffensive people, chiefly foreigners, and if they could
not extort money from the owners or inmates by threats, tore
them down to the ground, and stole or destroyed money, jewels,
and every thing valuable on the premises. These outrages, per-
petrated usually at night, when the more peaceable citizens had
retired to rest, were so frequent that the " hounds " became a
terror to all well-disposed people of the town. They invaded
the stores, taverns, and houses of Americans themselves, and
rudely demanded whatever they desired. They could not be
refused, for their numbers were so great, while they were well
armed, that nobody durst resist them. The town was paralyzed
with terror, and the " hounds," who latterly adopted the name

228 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

of '^ regiclators," committed the most violent and cruel outrages
in open defiance of the law and common humanity, A series of
the most barbarous, destructive, and daring attacks, were perpe-
ti-ated by those desperadoes on Sunday, the 15th of July, which
at last effectually roused the community to a determined coun-
teiaction. They formed themselves into a police force, and pro-
ceeded to measure their strength against the rioters. They were
successful, and immediately afterwards some twenty of the of-
fenders were put upon trial. At this time San Francisco had no
proper municipal organization, while neither was there an efficient
State government to which the citizens could appeal for protec-
tion. They therefore had to do every thing for themselves.
They accordingly appointed judges and counsel for both prosecu-
tion and defence, and at once proceeded with the trial of the
rioters, or conspirators, as they were charged with being. A
jury found them guilty of conspiracy, riot, robbery, and assault,
with intent to kill. Nine were convicted and sentenced to
various periods of imprisonment and considerable fines, and the
town was purged for a while of the more violent ruffians that had
infested it. A full account of these proceedings will be found in
the Third Part of this work.

August 1st. — The elections ordered by Governor Riley took
pLace in a spirited, though orderly manner. The candidates were
numerous, and the following parties were elected : —

Judge of the Supr-eme Court.
Peter H. Burnett, who had 1298 votes in San Francisco, and 76 at San Jos6.

Prefect. First Alcalde.

Horace Hawes, 913 votes. John W. Geary, 1516 votes.

Sub-Prefects. Second Alcalde.

Francis Guerrero, 1503 votes. Frank Turk, 1055 votes.

Joseph R. Curtis, 1399 "

Ayuntamiento, or Town Council.

Talbot H. Green, 1510 votes. Rodman M. Price, 840 votes.

Henry A. Harrison, 1491 " Wm. H. Davis, 835 "

Alfred J. Ellis, 1354 « Bezer Simmons, 825 «

Stephen C. Harris, 1323 « Samuel Brannan, 823

Thos. B. Winton, 1052 « Wm. M. Stewart, 815

John Townsend, 1052 " Gabriel B. Post, 691

alcalde's address to the ayuntamiento. 229

Delegates to Convention. Supernumerary Delegates.

Edward Gilbert, 1512 votes. Win. D. M. Howard, 876 votes.

Myron Norton, 1436 « Francis J. Lippitt, 874 "

Wm. M. Gwin, 1073 " Alfred J. Ellis, 872 "

Joseph Hobson, 839 " Francisco Sanchez, 872 "

Wm. M. Stewart, 833 « Rodman M. Price, 871 "

There were some ten or a dozen different tickets at this elec-
tion, upon all of which the name of Col. John W. Geary ap-
peared for the office of First Alcalde. He consequently received
the whole number of votes polled. This decided evidence of
public confidence was deserved and appreciated. At the first
meeting of the ai/untamiento, the newly elected alcalde presented
the following address. It is a document worthy of preservation,
being well written, and giving a faithful account of the gloomy
aspect of public affairs in San Francisco at that period, and
much usefid advice to those having the interests of the city in
charcje : —

'* Gentlemen of the City Councils : — Having been called by the unanimous
voice of my fellow-citizens to the office of chief magistrate of the city of San
Francisco, I find it impossible to convey to them by words the feelings excited
by this decided manifestation of their confidence and approbation. Pro-
foundly sensible that the honor and trust which have been conferred upon me far
transcend ray deserts, I can make no other return, than a heartfelt declaration
of my gratitude, accompanied by the assurance, that to the extent of my
power, I will with zeal and fidelity cause the observance of every law and or-
dinance made for the good of this city.

"The citizens of San Francisco, appreciating the importance of the present
crisis in the territorial history of California, and particularly the high and im-
portant destiny of their cit}"^, have conferred upon you, gentlemen, the onerous
duty, 3'et high honor, of legislating for their future welfare and prosperity.

" As your presiding officer, I deem it my duty to call your attention to the
situation of the city, and to ask your co-operation in making it, in point of
order and security, what it must shortly be in wealth and importance, the
first city, and great commercial and moneyed emporium of the Pacific. To
effect this, gentlemen, it will require of you great devotion to your duties, as
well as great diligence and a liberal supply of funds for municipal purposes.

" Economy in the expenditure of the public money is at all times desirable
and necessary ; but situated as we are here, without any superior body to
legislate for us, the people of the city will, of necessity, be called upon to
assume a responsibility in the enactment of laws, and in the expenditure of
money for public purposes, not usual under ordinary circumstances. Of this
every citizen of San Francisco is fully aware, and all who desire the prosperity

230 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

and good government of the city will stand ready to sustain you in whatever
you may do for its permanent improvement and benefit.

" At this time we are without a dollar in the public treasury, and it is to
be feared the city is greatly in debt. You have neither an office for your
magistrate, nor any other public edifice. You are without a single police offi-
cer or watchman, and have not the means of confining a prisoner for an hour ;
neither have you a place to shelter, while living, sick and unfortunate strangers
who may be cast upon our shores, or to bury them when dead. Public im-
provements are unknown in San Francisco. In short, you are without a
single requisite necessary for the promotion of prosperity, for the protection
of property, or for the maintenance of order.

" I therefore repeat, that the present exigency in public affairs requires
the utmost diligence on your part, in the performance of all your duties, as
well as a liberal supply of funds, to provide for the security of life and property
in San Francisco.

" There is perhaps no city upon the earth where a tax for the support of
its municipal government can be more justly imposed than here. Real
estate, both improved and unimproved, within a short space of time, has in-
creased in value in many instances a thousand-fold, and even at its present
liigh rates, will produce in the shape of rents the largest average income upon
record. Yet notwithstanding this unprecedented increased value of real
estate, the burdens of government should not be borne by a tax upon that
species of property alone ; each and every kind of business carried on within
the limits of the district should bear its just and proper share of taxation.
Equal justice to all should be your guide, and if strictly followed, none will
have just cause of complaint.

" The charters of most cities in the United States, granted by the Legisla-
tures, give the corporation the right to levy and collect a tax, as well to defray
the expenses of its municipal government as for public improvements; and it
is usual to submit a tax bill to the Legislature for its confirmation. This is
done to prevent abuses. Yet I do not know of an instance where the tax im-
posed has been reduced by the Legislature. In towns not incorporated there
is no resort to be had to the Legislature for a confirmation of the tax laws. The
town officers, chosen by the people, impose the taxes, and collect a sufficient
revenue by common consent ; and their right to do so is never questioned.
That you have a right to levy and collect a reasonable and proper tax, for the
support of your municipal government, cannot, in my judgment, for a moment
be questioned. In the absence of State legislative authority, you, as the
representatives of the people, are supreme in this district, and your acts, so
long as you confine them strictly to the legitimate sphere of your duty, will
not only be sanctioned and approved by the present worthy Executive of our
government in California, but will be most promptly confirmed by the Legis-
lature, whenever one shall be assembled either for the Territory or State.

" I would, therefore, recommend that with all convenient despatch you
ascertain, as near as possible, the amount of funds deemed necessary for the
support of a proper and efficient municipal government for one year ; that

alcalde's address to the ayuntamiento. 231

when you shall have determined this, you shall proceed to collect a just equi-
table tax upon real estate and upon sales at auction ; and that you require all
merchants, traders, storekeepers, &c., to take out a license for the transaction
of their business, paying therefor an amount proportionate to the quantity of
merchandise vended by them. Also, that all drays, lighters, and boats, used
in the transportation of merchandise, and of passengers, to or from vessels in
the harbor, be licensed.

" There is also another class of business proper to be taxed, which although
sometimes prohibited by law, yet in many countries is regulated by law. I
recommend you to adopt the latter course. The passion for gaming is uni-
versal, even where the severest penalties are imposed to prevent its indul-
gence. And it is a fact well known and understood, whenever gaming tables
are licensed and subject to proper police regulations, they are less injurious to
the interests and morals of the community than when conducted in defiance
of law. In the one case the proprietors are amenable to the law which au-
thorizes them, and are subject to proper control ; while on the other hand, if
prohibited, the evasion of the law by such means as are usually resorted to,
does but increase the evil, and the community is in no way benefited. I would,
therefore, recommend, under present circumstances, and until State legislation
can be had on the subject, that you license gaming and billiard tables.

" For the collection of each and every tax, the imposition of which I have
recommended, j'ou have the example of almost every city in the world. A
revenue is necessary for the proper maintenance and support of the munici-
pality, — and it is a maxim everywhere acknowledged, that every citizen
should, for the privileges he enjoys, aid in the support of the government
under which he lives, and which affords him protection of life, liberty, and
property.

" The public documents containing all the muniments of title, &c., for real
estate, are not to be found in possession of my predecessor, but in the private
keeping of a portion of the citizens.

" As these documents have not been transferred to me in a lesral manner
by an officer of the law, and as there may be a probability of their being more
or less mutilated, I particularly request you to grant me authority to appoint
a committee of three respectable and intelligent citizens, who, under oath,
shall make an inventory of the said documents, and a schedule of any mutila-
tions, erasures, or interlineations, which may be found on their pages. I feel
confident that the importance of this matter has already suggested to you
such a measure, inasmuch as the value of titles to real estate might be greatly
impaired by failing to adopt it. This course will not only relieve from unjust
suspicion the officer to whose charge and safe-keeping those documents are
intrusted by the law, but it will also render him responsible for his own
acts, and not for those of his predecessor, or of any other person.

" The laws under which we act oblige each officer, without regard to his
station, to advance, with his utmost zeal, the cause of education. I, there-
fore, strongly urge upon you the propriety of adopting measures by which
the children of the high, the low, the rich and the poor of this district, can

232

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

have equal advantages of drinking freely at the fountain of primary know-
ledge ; and it is to be hoped that our territory, which is ere long to be erected
into a State, and placed by the side of her elder sisters of the Union, will
show to them that she fully appreciates education as the only safeguard of our
republican institutions ; that the liberties of the people are based upon their
intelligence, and that in this respect, as well as in all others, California will
present herself to the world a model Republic, without spot or blemish.

" John W. Geary,
^^ First Alcalde oftlie District of San Francisco. Cal."'

Prison-brig Eupheinia. and Sto-e-ship Apollo.

Prefect Hawes also ably addressed the council, chiefly ex-
plaining the duties of prefects, which are, he says, " to take care
of public order and tranquillity ; to publish and circulate, with-
out delay, observe, enforce, and cause to be observed and en-
forced, the laws, throughout their respective districts ; and for
the execution of these duties they are clothed with certain pow-
ers, which are clearly specified and defined. They are particu-
larly enjoined to attend to the subject of public instruction, and
see that common schools be not wanting in any of the towns of

riRST PROTESTANT CHURCH. 233

their respective districts. They are also required to propose
measures for the encouragement of agriculture and all branches
of industry, instruction, and public beneficence, and 'for the exe-
cution of new works of public utility and the repair of old ones.
They constitute the ordinary channel of communication between
the governor and the authorities of the district, and are to com-
uumicate all representations coming from the latter, accompanied
with the necessary information."

The first money appropriated by the ayuntamiento was for the
purchase of the brig Euphemia, which was converted into a
prison for the confinement of criminals. This was the first jail
established in the place where convicted rogues could be kept in
custody. We give a correct representation of the Euphemia.
The store-ship Apollo, which is seen on the illustration, was an-
chored in the cove, some distance from the beach. It was subse-
quently used for a lodging-house and drinking-saloon. As the
city improvements progressed, lots were piled, capped, and filled
in on the flat covered by the waters of the bay, far beyond where
the Apollo lay ; and strangers visiting the city were astonished
to see the hull of a large ship located in the very heart of the
city, surrounded on all sides with large blocks of substantial stone
and brick edifices.

August 5th. — The first Protestant Church in California was
dedicated by the Baptists. At this time the Episcopalians,
Presbyterians, Congregationalists, and Methodists, were taking
steps to build places of worship for themselves, while most of
these denominations had already established sabbath-schools.
The Roman Catholics had also erected a church in Vallejo-street,
at which divine service was regularly performed on Sundays.
The Pev. T. D. Hunt, whose appointment was noticed before,
officiated at the chaplaincy ; and Mr. Lyman, a Mormon
preacher, was holding forth at the Institute, on Portsmouth
Square.

August 6th, 8th, and 11th. — The ayuntamiento meet, take
the oaths of office, and organize and distribute themselves into
various committees, for the purpose of systematically conducting
the afifains of the town. On the 13th, they appointed the follow-
ing municipal officials : —

234

ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

Frank Turk, Secretary.
William M. Eddy, City Surveyor.
P. C. \j&ndcTS, , Collector of Taxes.
And on the 20th of the month,
Dr. T. R. Palmer, City Physician.

Jonathan Cade, Sergeantat-Arms.
Malachi Fallon, Captain of Police.
A. G. Peachy, City Attorney.
John E. Townes, Sheriff.
Benj. Burgoyne, City Treasurer.

View of San Francisco in 1849, from head of California street

August 27th.— The " Pacific Neivs," a San Francisco tri-
weekly newspaper, published by Messrs. Falkner and Leland,
makes its first appearance. This paper was the second in San
Francisco at this period, and continued until 1851, when, after
having several times changed its proprietors and political com-
plexion, it expired. The only other newspaper in California was
the " Placer Times," published weekly at Sacramento ; but which
merged into a daily, and was afterwards issued in San Francisco.

The ayuntamiento this day issue an ordinance (subsequently
amended and re-issued) for raising a revenue for municipal pur-
poses, chiefly by means of a percentage duty on the sale of mer-
chandise and real estate, and heavy license duties imposed on
those engaged in different kinds of business. This was the be-
ginning of those steps by which a very great revenue was after-
wards collected.

STEAM NAVIGATION COMMENCED. 235

September 1st. — The convention of delegates to frame a
State Constitution met at Monterey ; and on the 4th instant,
chose Robert Semple president, and Capt. Wm. G. Marcy secre-
tary. The Constitution was finished and signed by the delegates
on the 13th of October.

September 10th. — The first "Merchants' Exchange" was
projected a short time before this date ; and at a public meeting
of citizens, held to-day, the scheme was approved of and sub-
scribed to by a considerable number of merchants and others.
The undertaking, however, after going on some time, seems to
have been dropped ; and in November we find Mr. E. E. Dunbar
opening a subscription " Merchants' Exchange and Reading
Room" in Washington street, which was patronized by most
mercantile people in the town.

October 26th. — Steam navigation is beginning to be adopted
in the bay and its upper waters. Just two years before this
time Wm. A. Leidesdorfi' had attempted to run a small steam-
boat, about the size of a ship's jolly-boat, which had been pro-
cured from the Russian settlement at Sitka. But this vessel, in
February, 1848, was sunk in one of the severe northers that
visit the bay ; and no steps had been taken to renew the experi-
ment until some time after the gold discoveries made its success
certain. Then speculators sent out many proper vessels from
the Atlantic States. The " Fioneer" a little iron steamer,
brought out in pieces from Boston, sailed upon the waters of the
Sacramento River about a month before this date ; and, being
the first that had penetrated so far into the interior, deserves the
title she had assumed. On the 9th instant, the small iron
steamer " Mint" had a trial trip, which was highly satisfactory.
She was intended to ply between San Francisco and the towns
on the upper waters. This day the steam-propeller " McKim"
left for Sacramento. Before this time voyages across the bay
and up the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers were made in
schooners and launches. These vessels were often detained a
week or ten days in sailing that distance, which a steamer now
accomplishes in half a day. Both the steamers mentioned sailed
every alternate day from San Francisco, and on the intervening
days left Sacramento for the return passage. The fares at first

236 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

were thirty dollars cabin, and twenty dollars deck. If berths
were used, five dollars extra. Meals on board, two dollars each.
The well known steamer " Senator " was shortly afterwards
placed on the same station, and the little " Mint" withdrawn
and placed on another. This was the beginning of a very great
increase of the transit trade of the bay. Later years have sent
numerous large, well appointed, and beautiful steam-vessels,
which have still further developed the interior water traffic, and
added immensely to the resources of the country.

October 21st. — Mr. Nathan Spear died of a disease of the
heart. He was forty-seven years of age, and one of the oldest
inhabitants of the place. This gentleman was partner to Mr.
Jacob P. Leese, who built the first house and formed the first
mercantile establishment in Yerba Buena. The death of Mr.
Spear was much regretted by the citizens, and the flags of the
ships in the bay were hung at half mast when it was announced.

October 25th. — The first Democratic Bleeting ever held in
California assembled this evening at Dennison's Exchange. The
attendance was so large that the meeting was compelled to ad-
journ to the public square. The officers chosen were : — Presi-
dent, Col. John W. Geary ; Vice-Presidents, Dr. McMillan and
Messrs. 0. P. Sutton, E. V. Joyce, Thomas J. Agnew, John
McVickar, Annis Merrill, and W. H. Jones ; Secretaries, Messrs.
Joseph T. Downey, J. Ross Brown, Daniel Cronin, and John
A. McGlynn. Hon. Wm. VanVorhies delivered a spirited ad-
dress, and a long series of resolutions expressive of democratic
principles were adopted. The chief object of the assembly was
to effect a party organization previous to the approaching State
elections.

October 29th. — Rowe's Olympic Circus, which was in a large
tent, opened to a numerous attendance of spectators. This was
the first public announcement of the dramatic or spectacle kind
in San Francisco. The " house" could hold from twelve to fif-
teen hundred ; and the prices of admission were, three dollars to
the pit, five dollars to the boxes, and fifty-five dollars for a pri-
vate box. Two theatres had some time previously been an-
nounced, and were at this time in course of formation.

November 13th.— Ballot taken on the Constitution, and

STATE ELECTION. 237

election for State officers. Party politics were beginning to in-
fluence voters in the choice of candidates. The election, how-
ever, was conducted in a quiet and orderly manner. In San
Francisco two thousand and fifty-one voted for the Constitution,
and five against it. Over the whole country the votes were
twelve thousand and sixty-four for, and eight hundred and
eleven agabist. These numbers were much below what had been
anticipated, partly on account of a mistake in the voting tickets
at San Francisco, and partly from the heavy rains over the
country, which prevented many voters from attending the polling
places. Perhaps, also, after the first excitement was over, when
the convention closed, the people became indifferent on the sub-
ject, and neglected the duty of voting. The following is a list
of the State officers, senators, and representatives in Congress,
first elected under the Constitution ; also, the members of the
first Legislature of California (to meet at San Jose), elected by
the citizens of San Francisco.

Governor. Lieutenant Governor.

Peter H. Burnett. John McDougal.

United States Senators.
John C. Fremont, Wm. M. Gwin.

Representatives in Congress.
George "W. Wright, Edward Gilbert.

Secretaty of State. Treasurer. Comptroller.

"Wm. Van Vorhies. Richard Roman. J. S. Houston.

Attorney General. Surveyor General.

Edward J. C. Kewen. Charles J. Whiting.

Chief Justice. Associate Justices.

S. C. Hastings. J. A. Lyon, Nathaniel Bennett.

State Senators.

Gabriel B. Post, Nathaniel Bennett.

Assembly.

Wm. Van Vorhies, Edmund Randolph, Levi Stowell, J. H. Watson,

J. A. Patterson.

November 26th. — The first habitation on Rincon Point,
erected by Dr. John H, Gihon, It was an India-rubber tent,

238 ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO.

and occupied the site of the present U. S. Marine Hospital. The
entire hill was covered with gnarled oaks and thick underbrush.
There were at that time but several buildings between the Rin-
con and California street, while the waters of the bay washed the
foot of precipitous sand-hills the greater portion of the distance,
which rendered it necessary for the pedestrian, when the tide was
in, to wade up to his waist in the water in passing from the city
to the point, he being compelled to follow the line of the beach.
Those hills have since been transplanted into the cove, and made
substantial building lots, where large vessels were then anchored.
November 29th. — The governor had appointed this as a day
of solemn thanksgiving and prayer for the new State of Califor-
nia, and as such it was very generally observed.

December 12th. — Some time previous to this date, the busi-
ness of the alcalde had so greatly increased, as to render necessary
the establishment of another court ; and upon application made
to the governor, he authorized William B. Almond, Esq., to open
and hold a Court of First Instance, with civil jurisdiction only,
and that in cases involving sums exceeding one hundred dollars.
Judge Almond accordingly organized his court in the old school-
house on the plaza ; and the novel and summary manner in
which he conducted his business and disposed of sometimes very
important cases, was a source of as much merriment to some and
mortification to others as any thing else then transpiring in the
town. Many a wag who was fond of fun, and had nothing better
to do, would spend an hour in the court-room to enjoy the satis-
faction of observing the chagrin of upstart attorneys, toward whose
oratorical eloquence and legal knowledge the judge was wont to
exhibit the most mortifying indifference. His Honor, at whose
expense many a good anecdote has been told, had a sovereign
contempt for Buncombe speeches, legal technicalities, learned
opinions, and triumphantly cited precedents. He was a man of
quick discernment and clear judgment ; and his opinion once
formed, and that sometimes occurred before even the first witness
was fully heard, his decision was made. Nothing further need
be said. His mind was as unalterable as were the laws of the
Medes and Persians. Jury trials were then of rare occurrence,
and the judge decided the cases that came before him ; and

JUDGE almond's COURT. 239

there can be no reason to doubt, that his decisions generally were
far more just and equitable than those more recently given in
courts claiming greater legal knowledge, where learned judges
gravely occupy the bench, and tampered juries are influenced
more by bribes than testimony. On this day a case was tried in
which a physician had sued the captain of a ship for medical at-
tendance upon sick sailors during a voyage around Cape Horn.
The prosecutor claimed five hundred dollars. A number of wit-
nesses were called on both sides. The judge sat upon a rickety
old chair, with his feet perched higher than his head upon a small
mantel over the fire-place, in which a few damp sticks of wood
were keeping each other warm by the aid of a very limited sup-
ply of burning coals. His Honor employed himself in paring his
corns, or scraping his nails, while the " learned counsel " briefly
presented the case, and called the first witness, whom the judge
instructed, without changing his position, to tell all he knew
about the matter, in as few words and as quickly as possible, —
at the same time charging the lawyers not to interrupt him with
questions. This witness was no sooner done, and he had but
little to say, when the counsel called another ; but His Honor in-
formed him that it was unnecessary to pursue the inquiry fur-
ther — the witness had told a plain, straightforward story — the
court understood the merits of the matter, and its mind was
made up. " But," says a lawyer, " you will at least hear us
speak to the points of law ?" " That would be a great waste
of time, which is very precious," replied the judge ; " I award
the plaintiff one hundred and fifty dollars. Mr. Clerk, what is
the next case .^" Thus in less than fifteen minutes a case was/-
equitably disposed of, which in an ordinary court of law might
have occupied at least as many days ; and in the course of the
day, a^ much business was despatched in the same summary
manner, as would occupy most courts an ordinary quarterly
term. In the instance related the counsel for the plaintifi" pock-
eted seventy-five dollars of the award, giving his client the bal-
ance, who was thus well paid for all the services he had rendered.
Young lawyers, however, were not pleased with this summary
method of disposing of business. To these the opportunity of
making a speech, the tendency of which is usually to render a

240 ANNALS OF SAN FEANCISCO.

clear case obscure, though it doubtless serves to display the ex-
tent of their wisdom and intelligence, is of quite as much conse-
quence as meat and drink to other people. They could not live
without it. Hence, Judge Almond, who deprived them of this
exquisite enjoyment, was no favorite with them. On one occa-
sion after a case had been decided, in the usual way, the defeated
attorney commenced reading aloud from a book