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LIBRARY 

OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY  Of  WYOMING 

LARAMIE 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2011  with  funding  from 

LYRASIS  Members  and  Sloan  Foundation 


http://www.archive.org/details/annalsofwyom114192324wyom 


i>,  STATE  OF  wVoMING 

HISTORICAL  DEPARTMENT 


QUARTERLY  BULLETIN 


(Double   Number) 


Vol.  1.  Cheyenne,  August  15,  192^3  Nos.  1  &  2 


WYOMING 


We  sing  Wyoming  and  her  good  brown  plains, 
Tang  of  warm  sagebrush  in  the  tonic  air; 
Winds  that  blow  four-cornered  from  the  sky, 
And  whimsy  trails  that  loiter  everywhere. 

Her  cattle  roam  a  thousand  hills, 
Her  flocks  are  gathered  to  an  ample  breast; 
Grim  pines  with  long  beards  in  the  wind 
Are  shaggy  sentinels  on  many  a  crest. 

Hers  is  the  glory  of  wide  sunset  skies, 
Coral  isles  on  westward  sweeping  seas; 
Or  gold  tumultuous  to  the  zenith  tossed 
In  wildering  ecstasy  by  crimson  breeze. 

We  sing  Wyoming  and  her  tinted  hills 
That  fall  asleep  for  long  midsummed  dreams, 
When  quiet  skies  are  lit  with  primrose  light 
And  fisher-birds  dip  into  shadowed  streams,-- 

Yea  and  the  wonder  of  far  purple  peaks, 

Knforested  ambrosial  heights, 

And  phantom  ranges  of  the  silver  brows 

Where  ravelled  clouds  are  rent  by  heavenly  lights. 

— Dr.  June  E.  Downey. 


(Copyright    1924) 


QUARTERLY  BULLETIN 

Published  by  the  Wyoming  Historical  Department 


STATE   HISTORICAL  BOARD 

Governor— William  B.  Ross 
Secretary  of  State — F.  E.  Lucas 
State  Librarian — Flo  La  Chapelle 
State   Historian,  Mrs.  Cyrus  Beard 
Secretary  of  Board 


ADVISORY  BOARD 

Rt.  Rev.  P.  A.  McGovern,  Cheyenne 
Dr.  Grace  R.  Hebard,  Laramie 
Mr.  P.  W.  Jenkins,  Cora 
Mrs.  Willis  M.  Spear,  Sheridan 
Miss  Margery  Ross,  Cody 
Mr.  R.  D.  Hawley,  Douglas 
Mrs.  E.  T.  Raymond,  Newcastle 
Mr.  E.  H.  Fourt,  Lander 


CONTENTS 

Wyoming Dr.  June  E.   Downey 

A  Place  in  Wyoming  Worthy  a  Monument....Mrs.  Agnes  Wright-Spring 

Early  Pioneer  of  Wyoming Mr.  Clarence  Holden 

The  Mountain's  Secret Bess  Hilliard  Glafcke 

Letter Philip  Ashton  Rollins 

Gamaliel?     O,  Gamaliel! E.  Richard  Shipp 

Chapman  Diary W.  W.   Chapman 

Tarrup  Letter Coutant  Notes 

Cherry  Creek  Massacre Ed.  Towse 

Earlv  Explorers George   H.   Cross 

Letter R.    H.    Hall 

Coutant    Notes 

Wyoming  Days Roy  C.  Smith 

Notes    Historian 

My  Association  with  Wyoming  Frank  S.  Lusk 

Reminiscences Harriet  Ann  Durbin 

The  Story  of  a  Pioneer Mary  A.   Paterson 

Notes  Coutant 

Colonel  Brackett  

T.  J.   Montgomery  

John  C.  Davis 

FOREWORD 

It  is  the  desire  of  the  State  Department  of  History  to  publish 
quarterly  a  small  brochure  on  Wyoming  History.  The  present  number 
is  the  first  of  these  little  pamphlets  to  be  issued.  The  material  pre- 
sented has  all  been  written  by  Wyoming  people  on  Wyoming  subjects. 
The  Department  solicits  such  contributions. 

This  second  edition  of  Nos.  1  and  2  of  the  Quarterly  Bulletin  is 
issued  at  this  time  to  supply  the  demand  for  unbroken  files.  These 
numbers  have  been  out  of  print  for  a  year. 

Four  pages  of  unpublished  history  have  been  added  to  the  original 
numbers  in  order  to  bring  this  double  number  to  twenty  pages  to  con- 
form with  the  size  of  subsequent  issues  of  Vols.  1  and  2. 


754 


A  PLACE  IN  WYOMING  WORTHY  OF 
A  MONUMENT 

SOUTH  PASS 

Far  in  the  West  there  lies  a  desert  land, 

where  the  mountains, 
Lift  through  perpetual  snows,  their  lofty  and 

luminous  summits, 
'Down  from  their  jagged,  deep  ravines,  where 

the  gorge,  like  a  gateway. 
Opens  a  passage  rude  to  the  wheels  of  the 

emigrant's   wagon. — Evangeline. 

In  Wyoming  there  are  many,  many,  points 
of  invaluable  historic  interest,  for  instance, 
Fort  Laramie,  Independence  Rock,  Fort  Phil 
Kearney,  Fort  Bonneville,  Fort  Bridger  and 
others.  All  of  these  points  are  surrounded 
with  thrilling  histories, — yet  there  is  a  place 
which  stands  out  clear  cut  above  the  others, 
it  is  the  place  in  Wyoming  most  worthy  of 
a  fine  monument, — South  Pass. 

South  Pass  is  in  the  Continental  Divide  in 
the  Wind  River  Range,  in  range  101  and  102, 
township  27,  28.  Altitude  about  7500  feet. 
The  pass  is  947  miles  from  the  Missouri 
River  and  was  considered  the  dividing  line 
or  the  half-way  mark  on  the  Oregon  Trail, 
ir-rfas  here  that  the  emigrants  looked  toward 
their  goal  and  forgot  the  country  from  which 
they  had  come.  From  here  the  Sweet-water 
rises  and  flows  toward  the  East  to  the  North 
Platte,  the  Missouri,  the  Mississippi,  and 
Gulf  of  Mexico.  On  the  other  hand,  Pacific 
Creek  and  Sandy  Creek  flow  westward  into 
the  Green,  the  Colorado,  and  the  Gulf  of 
California.     This  then  was  the  dividing  line. 

Westward,   the   Oregon   flows  and   the 

Walleway  and  Owynee, 
East,  with   devious  course,  among  the 

Windriven   Mountains, 
Through  the  Sweetwater  Valley  precipitate 

leaps  the  Nebraska, 
And  to  the  South,  from  Fontaine-qui-bout 

and  to  the  Spanish  Sierras, 
Fretted  with  sands  and  rocks,  and  swept  by 

the  wind  of  the  desert, 
Numberless  torrents,  with  ceaseless  sound, 

descend  to  the  ocean, 
Like  the  great  chords  of  a  harp,  in  loud 

and  solemn  vibrations. 

The  country  leading  up  to  the  pass  is 
gently  sloping  and  rises  gradually  to  the  di- 
vide. The  pass  itself  is  over  three  miles 
long  and  is  a  dip  in  the  extreme  southeastern 
part  of  the  Wind  River  mountains.  The  sides 
of  the  pass  are  exceedingly  rough  altho  not 
iery  high.  Its  gulches  afforded  abundant 
forage  and  excellent  water.  From  now  on 
in  speaking  of  South  Pass  we  will  consider 
the  pass  and  the  neighboring  slopes  leading 
;up  to  and  away  from  it. 

"  There  is  a  pass  across  to  the  head  of  Green 
River  near  Union  Peak,  called  Union  Pass 
and  also  another  across  to  the  Gros  Ventres 
fork  of  Snake  River.  Animals  have  been  rid- 
den across  from  the  head  of  Green  River 
to  Camp  Brown  but  this  is  probably  quite 
a  difficult  task.  It  is  impossible  to  get  wa- 
gons   thru    these    passes,    therefore    lea v in 


South  Pass  the  only  opening  thru  this  branch 
of  the  mountains  which  afforded  easy  passage 
for  people  traveling  with  wagons. 

A  far  more  level  country  would  have  been 
across  the  desert.  There  was  a  trail  which 
turned  out  ten  miles  west  of  Devil's  Gate 
thru  Crook's  gap,  but  there  was  a  stretch  of 
eighty  miles  from  there  to  the  Green  River 
without  water.  Rivers  came  up  and  then 
disappeared  in  the  sand  leaving  alkaline  pools 
which  were  not  fit  to  drink.  The  buffalo 
trails  crossed  the  north  edge  of  the  desert, 
also  antelope  trails,  but  the  emigrants  kept 
north  along  the  Sweetwater  thru  South  Pass. 
One  author  says:  "The  Sweetwater  takes 
us  below  the  foot  of  the  Big  Horns,  thru  the 
Devil's  Gate,  and  leads  us  gently  up  to  that 
remarkable  crossing  of  the  Rockies  known  as 
South  Pass,  a  spot  of  great  association." 

John  D.   Hunter,  by  some  was'  believed  to 

have    lived    in    captivity,    and    is    reported    to 

have   said   that   he  and  some   Plains   Indians, 

made  the  journey  to  the  Columbia  and  back 

thru   passes   in   the   Rockies,   probably   South 

j  Pass.      We   are   bound   to   believe   that   these 

]  Plains'  Indians  antedated  the  first  white  man 

j  in  the  discovery  of  South  Pass. 

In  1743  the  Verendryes  just  missed  discov- 
ering South  Pass.  They  were  in  the  Wind— 
1  River  mountains  about  100  miles  north  of  the 
long  looked  for  pass.  The  Snakes  and  Sho- 
shones,  however,  frightened  them  by  telling 
them  that  the  hostile  Sioux  would  kill  them 
if  they  went  any  farther,  so  worn  out  and 
despairing  of  finding  the  Western  Sea  they 
turned  back. 

In  1811  John  Jacob  Astor's  land  party 
euided  by  Indians,  afraid  of  the  other  In- 
dians crossed  the  Rockies  thru  Union  Pass, 
eighty  miles  to  the  north  of  South  Pass. 

In  1812  Robert  Stuart  and  his  party  of 
trappers  just  missed  the   Pass. 

The  first  white  man  believed  to  have  dis- 
covered South  Pass  is  Etienne  Provost.  Pro- 
vost was  one  of  Ashley's  men.  It  seems  that 
William  Ashley  of  St.  Louis,  organized  a 
company  called  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur 
Company.  On  April  12,  1822,  his  first  ex- 
pedition left  St.  Louis.  Ashley  sent  Andrew- 
Henry  with  eighty  men  to  the  Yellowstone 
country  to  trap.  Henry  sent  Etienne  Provost 
to  trap  to  the  southwest.  It  was  there,  while 
trapping  in  the  Wind  River  Mountain  that  . 
Provost  discovered  the  Pass  in  the  moun- 
tains, and  probably  gave  it  its  name  from  its 
location  in  the  southern  part  of  the  Conti- 
nental Divide.  James  Bridger  was  a  mem- 
ber of  Provost's  party  when  the  pass  was  dis- 
covered. 

In  1824,  General  Ashley  took  his  little 
wheeled  cannon  thru  South  Pass  to  his  fort 
at  Utah  Lake.  This  doubtless  was  the  first 
wheeled  vehicle  which  had  gone  over  this 
route. 

About  this  time  the  Missouri  Fur  Com- 
pany revived  under  the  leadership  of  Lisa, 
Pilcher,  Hempstead,  and  Perkins  carried  on 
their  operations  in  the  South  Pass  country. 
Although  to  Smith,  Sublette,  and  Jackson 
belongs  the  distinction  of  taking  the  first 
wagons  across  the  plains  into  the  mountains, 
nowhere  do  we  find  that  they  took  the  wa- 
ons   thru   South    Pass — that   honor   was   left 


to  Captain  E.  L.  Bonneville,  who  in  1832 
led  a  party  of  one  hundred  and  ten  frontiers- 
men across  the  plains  to  the  Rockies.  Bon- 
neville led  his  caravan  of  twenty  wagons 
hauled  by  "bull  teams,"  thru  South  Pass,  trac- 
ing for  the  first  time  with  wagons  the  Over- 
land Trail.  Captain  Bonneville  received  a 
leave  of  absence  from  the  army  and  for  two 
years  carried  on  operations  around  this  neigh- 
borhood. 

Following  closely  after  Bonneville  in  1832 
we  find  Nathaniel  J.  Wyeth,  who  led  a  party 
of  adventurers  over  the  same  route  thru 
South  Pass  with  a  load  of  provisions  which 
he  intended  to  sell  for  a  large  sum  of  money. 
At  that  time,  however,  there  was  a  change 
in  fur  companies  and  they  refused  to  buy  the 
provisions.  Wyeth  was  disgusted  and  re- 
turned to  the  East.  Soon  he  gathered  a  band 
of  Methodist  missionaries  and  turned  his  face 
westward  again  toward  the  Rockies.  Among 
these  missionaries  were  Jason  and  Daniel 
Lee. 

The  next  year  1835,  Samuel  Parker  and 
Whitman,  two  missionaries  set  out  by  the 
trail  thru  South  Pass  on  their  way  to  Oregon. 
Leaving  Parker,  near  the  western  boundary 
of  Wyoming,  Whitman  accompanied  by  two 
Nez  Perces  Indians,  boys,  returned  to  the 
east.  While  East,  he  and  a  friend,  Rev. 
Spalding  by  name,  were  both  married  and 
in  1836  started  west  with  their  brides.  The 
party  consisted  of  Rev.  and  Mrs.  Spalding, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Whitman,  Mr.  Gray  and  two 
Nez  Perces  boys. 

"From  the  Missouri  river  Dr.  Whitman's 
party  journeyed  with  a  fur  trader's  caravan. 
On  the  night  of  July  third  the  travelers 
reached  South  Pass.  Early  in  the  morning 
of  the  Fourth,  the  fur  trader's  caravan  jour- 
neyed on,  but  Whitman's  party  remained  in 
order  to  show  their  patriotism.  Dr.  Whit- 
man spread  a  blanket  on  the  ground,  then 
took  a  national  flag  and  a  Bible  from  the 
wagon.  After  placing  the  Bible  on  the  ground 
and  grasping  the  flag  in  his  hand,  he  raised 
his  voice  in  prayer.  Then  in  the  name  of 
God,  and  of  the  United  States  the  reverend 
man  took  possession  of  the  territory"  which 
is  now  our  glorious  state  of  Wyoming.  This 
patriotic  service  closed  with  a  hymn  led  by 
Mrs.   Whitman. 

Mrs.  Whitman  and  Mrs.  Spalding  were  the 
first  white  women  to  cross  over  the  Overland 
Trail  thru  South  Pass.  Soon  however  hun- 
dreds of  women  came  thru  on  their  way  to 
the  west. 

Soon  after  Whitman  had  aroused  the  peo- 
ple concerning  the  missionary  work,  Father 
Jean  Pierre  De  Smet  in  1840,  left  Westport 
with  a  party  of  the  American  Fur  Company. 
He  journeyed  thru  South  Pass  on  his  way  to 
the  Green  River  "rendezvous."  The  next 
spring  Father  De  Smet  returned  with  two 
priests  and  three  laymen,  they  were  met  at 
South  Pass  by  ten  lodges  of  the  faithful  Flat- 
heads.  Many  times  after  that  Father  De 
Smet  passed  back  and  forth  thru  South  Pass 
on  his  way  from  tribe  to  tribe  of  the  Indians 
as  he  performed  his  missionary  work. 
"On  the  western  slope  of  these  mountains 
Dwells  in  his  little  village,  the  Black  Robe 

Chief  of  the  -Mission, 


Much  he  teaches  the  people,  and  tells  them 

of  Mary  and  Jesus, 
Loud  laugh  their  hearts  with  joy  and  weep 

with  pain  when  they  hear  him." 

At  this  time  (1840),  the  Overland  Trail 
was  becoming  a  well  worn  road.  South  Pass 
was  the  resting  place  for  many  trains.  The 
fine  grass  and  water  there  afforded  excellent 
camping  grounds  and  gave  ample  opportunity 
for  repairing  and  getting  ready  for  the  long 
pull  west.  Altho,  to  some  travelers  the  jour- 
ney seemed  near  its  close  at  South  Pass, 
yet  it  was  only  half  over.  LTp  to  this  time 
the  people  traveling  thru,  were  trappers, 
traders,  and  missionaries,  but  now  in  1842 
came  the  first  party  of  actual  colonists,  112 
in  number,  which  was  headed  by  Dr.  Elijah 
White,  who  was  sent  out  a  sub-Indian  agent. 

In  this  same  year,  1842,  Senator  Benton, 
a  patron  of  fur  trade  received  for  his  son- 
-in-law,  John  C.  Fremont,  a  detail  in  com- 
mand of  an  exploring  party  to  South  Pass. 
Fremont,  guided  by  Kit  Carson,  started  with 
a  party  from  Cyprian's  Chateau's  place  on 
the  Kansas,  and  reached  the  destination, 
South  Pass,  on  Aug.  8,  1842.  His  journey 
of  observation  was  continued  along  the  Wind 
River  Mountains,  and  to  the  top  of  the  peak 
which  now  bears  his  name.  In  1843,  Fremont 
made  a  second  and  more  extended  govern- 
mental exploration  to  the  Rockies.  He  split 
up  his  party  and  sent  part  thru  South  Pass 
again. 

As  soon  as  the  Indiana  began  to  see  that 
the  white  men  were  pushing  into  their  coun- 
try to  stay,  they  began  their  depredations. 
The  South  Pass  country  afforded  them  ex- 
cellent opportunity  for  carrying  on  their  war- 
fare. As  a  result,  the  government  established 
a  soldier  camp  about  one  and  one-fourth 
miles  northeast  of  South  Pass.  A  stockade 
and  post  were  built  and  called  Fort  Stam- 
baugh.  This  was  used  for  several  years  as 
a  protection  to  emigrants  in  the  pass  but 
several  battles  took  place,  they  were  of  no 
consequence. 

For  many  years  South  Pass  City  and  Camp 
Stambaugh  were  outfitting  posts  for  trappers 
and  traders.  The  Northwest  Fur  Cumpany 
established  a  trading  post  here,  which  after 
the  fur  animals  disappeared  was  used  as  a 
country  store. 

In  1847  the  Mormons,  led  by  Brigham 
Young  started  for  the  West.  An  advance 
party  under  the  leadership  of  Starbell,  con- 
sisting of  143  men,  72  wagons,  175  horses 
went  thru  South  Pass  in  search  fo  the  "Prom- 
ised Land."  During  the  summer,  party  after 
party  passed  thru  until  by  October  there  were 
approximately  4,000  Mormons  in  the  vicinity 
of  Salt   Lake. 

In  1849,  the  great  cry  was  "Westward, 
Ho,"  and  "California."  Thousands  of  gold 
seekers  pushed  west.  One  authority  states 
that  42,000  people  crossed  the  continent  dur- 
ing this  year,  another  states  that  100,000  gold 
seekers  passed  over  the  trail  between  May 
and  October,  1849.  These  travelers  went  over 
the  trail  thru  South  Pass.  It  seemed  that 
there  was  an  endless  line  of  the  white  can- 
vass wagons  creeping  and  crawling  along 
over  the  way.      These  people  were  going  to 


stay  and  were  carrying  their  families  and  all 
of  their  household   possessions  with  them. 
"Close   at   their   sides  their  children   ran, 

and  urged  on  the  oxen, 
While   in   their  little  hands   they   clasped 

some  fragment  of  playthings." 

The  loads  grew  heavier  and  heavier,  it 
seemed,  on  the  long  journey  and  as  a  result 
carved  tables,  bureaus,  trunks,  chairs,  and 
everything  imaginable  were  strewn  along  the 
path.  Many  men  and  women  pitched  their 
camps  along  the  streams  in  South  Pass.  For 
some  now  the  journey  seemed  almost  over, 
but  for  some  the  journey  was  forgotten,  all 
thoughts  were  turned  upon  a  loved  one  who 
was  sick  and  dying  out  in  the  wilderness; 
or  else,  the  young  people  out  in  the  clear 
starlight  would  be  busy  with  their  love-mak- 
ing. Song  and  sorrow  were  alike  familiar 
to  the  trail. 

The  tremendous  stream  of  people  which 
started  in  '49  continued  until  so  many  people 
were  in  California  and  Oregon  that  by  1881 
:t  mail  service  became  necessary.  Therefore 
Hockaday  and  Ligett  established  a  stage  line 
to  carry  mail  and  passengers.  This  line  ran 
over  the  regular  route  thru  South  Pass. 
Large.  Concord  coaches  were  used  and  fine 
horses  and  Kentucky  mules.  The  stages 
went  night  and  day  at  full  speed. 

In  1858  Russell,  Majors,  and  Waddell  pur- 
chased the  stage  line.  These  men  had  in 
speration  6,250  freight  wagons,  and  75,000 
Bxen. 

A  little  previous  to  this  time,  in  the  early 
fifties  the  first  gold  mined  in  Wyoming  was 
mined  in  South  Pass.  The  principal  strike 
was  made  in  Strawberry  gulch  in  the  extreme 
3astern  part  of  the  Pass  vicinity.  Very  rich 
:juartz  mines  have  been  found  in  South  Pass 
and  an  immense  amount  of  mining  has  been 
ione  there  which  is  proof  enough  that  some 
Jay  it  will  be  the  center  of  industry. 

The  government  offered  a  prize  of  $40,000 
l  year  to  the  person  or  company  who  should 
first  build  a  telegraph  line  along  the  Over- 
land Trail.  A  California  Company  under- 
:ook  the  enterprise  and  built  to  Salt  Lake. 
A  man  named  Creighton  began  at  the  east 
and  built  toward  Salt  Lake.  By  rushing  his 
ine  thru  Creighton  completed  it  on  October 
17,  1861,  making  him  the  winner  of  the  prize, 
"elegraph  stations  were  established  along  the 
ine,  one  being  placed  at  South  Pass. 

The  Indians  soon  learned  that  the  wires 
rarried  messages'  for  help,  so  they  were  not 
ong  in  tearing  the  line  down.  Many  cruelties 
Ivere  committed  by  the  savages.  South  Pass 
offered  a  fine  place  for  them  to  carry  on 
:heir  depredations.  Matters  began  to  grow 
very  serious,  until  finally  the  U.  S.  Volun- 
:ecrs  were  sent  out  to  fight  the  Indians. 

In  1859,  Russell,  Majors  and  Waddell  un- 
dertook the  enterprise  of  the  Pony  Express, 
rhis  was  a  marvelous  undertaking.  The  men 
rode  day  and  night  thru  storm  and  sunshine. 
Phey  were  given  just  two  minutes  at  each 
station  in  which  to  change  horses  and  be  off. 
The  average  time  required  for  rushing  this 
mail  across  half  of  the  Continent  was  eight 
days.  This  was  once  cut  down  to  seven 
davs    and    seventeen    hours.      Two    noted    as 


Pony  Express  riders  were:  Buffalo  Bill, 
Cody,  and  Pony  Bob  (Robert  H.  Haslan). 
There  was  great  danger  from  Indians  and 
the  strain  upon  nerves  was  tremendous.  In 
all  the  time  that  the  Pony  Express  was  in 
operation,  however,  there  was  only  one  mail 
lost.  About  the  most  marvelous  ride  ever 
made  on  the  Overland  Trail  was  made  by  a 
Canadian,  Francis  Xavier  Aubrey,  who  rode 
on  a  bet  that  he  could  cover  the  distance 
between  Santa  Fe  and  Independence  (800 
miles)  in  eight  days.  The  bet  was  one  thou- 
sand dollars.  Aubrey  did  not  stop  to  rest, 
changing  horses  every  hundred  miles.  He 
finished  the  ride  in  five  days  and  thirteen 
hours. 

About  1862  the  stage  route  was  changed 
from  the  South  Pass  route  to  the  southern 
route  thru  Cheyenne  and  across  the  Laramie 
Plains.  This  was  brought  about  chiefly  from 
the  influence  of  Denver  men  who  persuaded 
Ben  Holliday,  then  proprietor,  to  change  the 
line.  From  that  time  on,  the  greater  number 
of  travelers  took  the  southern  route  instead 
of  going  thru  South  Pass.  During  the  latter 
part  of  the  fifties  and  early  sixties,  surveyors 
crossed  Wyoming  hunting  a  line  for  the 
L-nion  Pacific  Railroad.  A  railroad  could 
have  been  built  thru  South  Pass  but  the  In- 
dians were  bad  in  that  part  of  the  state  for 
one  reason,  and  then  the  surveyors  were 
after  the  shortest  way,  and  last  the  influence 
of  the  Denver  men  was  brought  to  bear  upon 
them.  For  these  reasons  the  survey  was 
made  across  the  southern  part  of  the  state 
and  the  railroad  was  accordingly  constructed. 
After  the  construction  of  the  railroad  thru 
South   Pass   was   seldom   used  by   emigrants. 

In  1869  Mrs.  Esther  Morris,  joined  her 
husband  and  three  children  at  the  mining 
camp  at  South  Pass.  Here  she  was  made 
the  first  woman  Justice  of  the  Peace  in  the 
world,  and  it  was  she  who  co-operated  with 
Colonel  Bright  in  securing  suffrage  for  the 
women  of  Wyoming. 

To  every  one  the  word  South  Pass  should 
call  up  the  early  history  of  Wyoming.  It 
was  the  gateway  to  the  western  civilization. 
Surely  a  place  with  so  many  historic  relations 
and  famous  associations  is  worthy  of  a  monu- 
ment. Do  not  let  us  forget  that  the  only 
monuments  which  we  have  for  it  today  are 
the  old  camptires,  which  will  soon  fade  from 
sight. 

"As    the    emigrant's   way    on    the    Western 

desert  is  marked  by 
Camp-fire  long  consumed,  and  bone  that 

bleach   in   the   sunshine." 

Essay  written  for  prize  offered  by  Jacques- 
Laramie  Chapter  of  D.  A.  R.,  Laramie,  Wvo., 
1911.  Written  by  Agnes  R.  Wright.  (This 
essay  won  the  prize.) 


EARLY  PIONEER  OF  WYOMING 

Tex  Eastwood  was  a  soldier  of  the  Mexi- 
can War.  He  came  to  Wyoming  in  the 
early  fifties,  and  for  years  followed  the  trail 
as  a  trapper  and  a  scout.  He  was  a  great 
friend  of  James  Bridger  and  was  acquainted 
with  Kit  Carson.  Tex  was  well  known  far 
and  near  in  the  Green  River  Vallev.     He  had 


a  ranch  on  Big  Piney  and  this  was  his  home 
for  many  years.  He  also  raised  many  good 
horses,  and  oftentimes  had  them  stolen  by 
the  Indians.  The  summer  of  1878  at  the 
headwaters  of  Green  River,  his  horses  were 
all  stolen  by  the  Indians,  his  partner  killed 
and  himself  badly  wounded.  Tex  claimed 
after  he  was  wounded  he  wandered  about  in 
the  wilderness  for  fifteen  days,  with  neither 
food  nor  shelter.  All  he  lived  on  was  sage 
brush  and  grease  wood.  At  that  time  game 
was  plentiful  but  he  did  not  dare  fire  a  shot, 
as  he  knew  he  was  in  the  heart  of  the  Indian 
country.  At  the  end  of  the  fifteen  days  he 
fell  into  the  hands  of  two  trappers  and  they 
took  charge  of  the  great  scout  until  he  had 
almost  recovered.  Tex  told  his  sad  story 
to  the  trappers  who  had  taken  charge  of  him. 
The  first  meal  they  gave  him  was  some  gruel 
from  dried  elk  meat,  and  a  small  cup  of  tea, 
and  he  said,  "that  was  the  best  meal  he  had 
ever  tasted."  He  was  so  near  starvation  and 
they  were  very  careful  in  his  diet.  They 
gave  him  the  same  kind  of  food  for  many 
days,  in  small  amounts  but  very  often.  The 
trappers  gave  Tex  the  very  best  of  care 
while  he  was  with  them. 

After  he  had  almost  recovered  the  trap- 
pers brought  Tex  down  to  Fontenelle  and 
left  him  with  John  W.  Smith  who  was  a 
good  friend  to  Tex  and  he  was  there  for 
niany  months,  and  finally  fully  recovered 
from  his  severe  wounds.  He  then  went 
back  to  his  trapping  grounds.  I  heard  him 
say  once,  "that  he  caught  six  hundred  beaver 
in  the  tributaries  of  the  Green  River  in  one 
season."  He  always  received  good  prices 
for  the  furs,  and  as  he  understood  the  fur 
business  thoroughly  he  always  prepared  the 
furs  so  he  might  receive  good  prices.  He 
was  a  good  reliable  man  and  honest  in  all 
of  his  dealings.  He  was.  a  man  that  was 
afraid  of  nothing  or  of  no  one.  He  left  a 
large  amount  of  property  at  the  time  of  his 
death,  which  occurred  the  latter  part  of  May, 
1894,  and  the  remains  were  placed  in  the 
cemetery  of  La  Barge. 

CLARENCE  HOLDEN, 

Fontenelle,  Wvo. 

June  3,  1923. 


THE   MOUNTAIN'S   SECRET 

What  secret  hold  ye  within  thy  walls, 
So  massive  from  base  to  crest? 

Mighty  and  fearless  ye  stand  aloof 
From  all  earth's   loveliness. 

Gigantic   thy   strength   for    such    support 
As  the  trees  and  rocks  demand, 

And  the  precious  metals  which  men   so  seek 
Ye  yield  and  defenseless  stand. 

Do  the  gloden  sun  and  the  fleecy  clouds 
Thy   silence  understand? 

They   rise  and   sink,  o'er  thy   topmost  brink, 
Baffling  bewildered  man, 

Who  may  worship  and  gaze  and  perhaps  un- 
derstand 

What  part  ye  are  of  the  Infinite's  plan. 
—Bess  Hilliard  Glafcke. 

1  o  the  State  Historian  oiW 
Madam: 

"Old   timers"    can,    without    cost    to    them- 
selves,   do    a    great    service    to    their    friends, 


'yoming: 


to  Wyoming,  and  to  the  United  States.  There 
is  vital  need  for  this  service,  and  only  "Old- 
timers"   can   give   it. 

A  host  of  fiction  writers,  through  many 
years,  have  been  drawing  pen  portraits  of  the 
Western  pioneers.  More  recently  the  "movie 
people"  have  flooded  the  country  with  screen 
portrayals  of  those  same  pioneers.  Painters 
and  book  illustrators  have  evolved  innumer- 
able pictures  relating  to  the  same  subject. 
The  portraits,  the  portrayals,  and  the  pictures 
do  not  show  the  pioneer  as  he  really  was. 
They  set  forth  a  mere  swash-buckler,  but 
they  have  convinced  the  majority  of  Ameri- 
cans that  what  they  set  forth  is  an  accurate 
presentment. 

Until  recently  Westerners  could  afford 
amusedly  to  ignore  the  libel,  for  it  gave  no 
promise  of  harming  any  one  or  anything. 
But  conditions  have  changed,  and  the  possi- 
bility of  serious  harm  has  been  clearly  re- 
vealed. 

The  many  immigrants  now  landing  in  the 
United  States  arrive  upon  its  shores  with  no 
knowledge  of  its  history.  Their  school  is 
the  "movie"  screen  and  the  short  story.  Thus 
they  rapidly  become  persuaded  that  the  West 
was  founded  and  shaped  by  thieves  and  mur- 
derers, that  it  had  no  worth  in  its  inception, 
that  it  has  no  merit  in  its  traditions. 

There  is  grave  danger  unless  this  concep- 
tion be  corrected.  At  least,  many  of  the 
Australian  contingent  in  the  late  W'orld  War 
assert  that  there  is;  and  these  Australians 
are,  by  reason  of  their  own  experiences,  ex- 
pert judges.  These  Australians,  on  leaving 
home,  had  in  mind  naught  but  the  idea  of 
complete  and  enthusiastic  accord  with  their 
allies  in  assailing  the  German  army.  These 
Australians  received,  as  they  expected,  bul- 
lets from  the  German  army;  but  they  re- 
ceived, as  they  did  not  expect,  gibes  from 
their  allies;  gibes  so  frequent  and  so  galling, 
as  at  times  seriously  to  impair  morale.  They 
were  tauntingly  accused  of  being  the  de- 
scendents  of  criminals;  all  this  because  Eng- 
land, during  a  few  years  before  the  coloniza- 
tion of  Australia  began,  maintained  a  penal 
colony  at  Botany  Bay  in  Australia  and  sent 
to  Botany  Bay  a  limited  number  of  convicts. 
"The  man  on  the  street"  of  England,  of  Can- 
ada, event  of  the  United  States  had,  for  t'.ie 
moment,  become  the  man  in  the  trenche  s 
He  believed  that  the  Australian  soldier  ? 
traced  their  ancestry  to  the  felons  of  Botany 
Bay,  and  he  often  acted  accordingly. 

As  one  of  these  Australians  later  said,  "Un 
less  the  Americans  substitute  a  truthful  pic 
ture  of  the  Western  pioneer  in  place  of  tlu 
libelous  caricature  that  now  prevails, that  cari-i 
cature  some  day  will  rise  up  and  haunt  fu-l 
ture  Americans  as  Botany  Bay  has  haunted 
us.  Why  don't  the  Americans  advertise  the' 
actual  Western  pioneer,  and  thus  convert  a 
national  liability  into  a  national  asset." 

Unfortunately   there   now   is,   in   written   or 
printed    form,    the    very    scantiest    record    oi 
actual  doings  in  the  early  West.     Accordingly] 
there  are  available  for  the  serious-minded  his- 1 
torian    only    few    and    fragmentary    records 
wherefrom    to   construct    a    truthful   account  tp 
But  it  is  not  too  late  for  this  deficiency  to  faH 
averted.     There  still  live  many  "Old-timers  J( 


If  they  will  write  you  letters  in  which  they 
tell  in  detail  of  what  they  saw  and  did  and 
suffered  in  the  bygone  days,  of  their  dealings 
with  their  fellow  pioneers,  whether  these  fel- 
low pioneers  were  honorable  or  infamous,  in 
which  they  tell  in  detail  of  wrongful  deeds 
as  well  as  of  praiseworthy  acts,  then  out  of 
the  aggregate  of  these  letters  will  come  a 
history  that  will  be  authoritative  and  conclu- 
sive. If,  however,  the  "Old-timers"  remain 
inactive  in  the  matter,  all  proof  of  decency 
will  die  with  them,  and  the  West  may  pass 
down  in  history  with  the  unwarranted  stigma 
of  having  had  a  disgraceful  parentage. 

Let  tbe  "movies"  and  the  fictionists  con- 
tinue to  give  to  the  public,  for  its  entertain- 
ment, their  oftentimes  charming  pictures  of 
fictitious  Westerners,  but  let  the  public  be 
taught  that  the  pictures  are  inaccurate,  that 
the  average  Western  pioneer  was  a  construc- 
tive citizen,  a  builder  of  empire,  and  not  a 
"two  gun"  killer. 

Respectfully  vours, 

PHILIP"  ASHTON  ROLLINS. 


Gamaliel?     O,  Gamaliel! 

The  hearts  of  us  are  sad  today, 
The  eyes  of  us  are  dim  with  tears, 
Thy  hand  no  longer  points  the  way, 
'""•-slfhy  words  no  longer  still  our  fears, 
Gamaliel,  O,  Gamaliel! 

Disconsolate,  we  voice  our  woe; 
O.ur  souls  shrink  with  the  pain  of  it. 
Desolate,  we  voice  our  sorrow; 
Our  heads  bowed  with  grief  of  it. 
Gamaliel,  O,  Gamaliel. 

— E.  RICHARD  SHIPP. 
The  Wyoming  Poet. 
August  2,  1923.  , 
Written  on   President  Harding's  passing. 


CHAPMAN  DIARY 

Diary  of  Mr.  W.  W.  Chapman  who  left 
nis  home  in  Illinois  on  March  12,  1849,  for 
:he  gold  fields  of  California,  traversing  across 
A-hat  is  now  Wyoming.  Through  the  cour- 
esy  of  the  son,  Mr.  Albert  Chapman,  an 
?arly  settler  and  prominent  citizen  of  Chey- 
Inne,  we  are  permitted  to  use  this  diary. 

Now  I  shall  book  something  of  my  Cali- 
ornia  trip.  I  broke  up  housekeeping  March 
Eth,  1849.  Started  for  the  relms  of  gold 
m  13th  and  I  left  St.  Louis  April  5th.  Ar- 
ived  at  St.  Joseph  May  the  2nd. 

Wednesday  left  there  the  5th,  first  day  6 
niles  campt  on  the  bluffs  noon;  10  miles 
:ampt  on  Musquto  branch  a  pleasant  stream; 
Vlissouri  bottom  heavy  timbered  the  rest  of 
vhich  is  rolling  prairie  in  delightful  mounds 
i  broken  country. 

The  3rd  day  12  miles  campt  on  Wolf  creek 
l  perfect  mud  hole  at  the  ford  a  delightful 
tream  we  saw  Indians  plenty  they  are  thick 
bund   the   camps. 

May  8th,  9  m  passed  the  Indian  mission 
hey  were  planting  corn.  Saw  plenty  of  Li- 
lians they  said  fourteen  days  travels  to  Buf- 
alo.  Sold  one  of  the  company  a  pony 
>assed  the  lone  tree  it  was  desolate  monarch 
t  seems  to  be  the  lone  monitor  of  the  plains 
}od's    mandate    bade    it    rise;    no    timber — 


. > 

campt  on  a  large  spring  in  prairie,  the  sun 
rose  and  set  behind  mounds  in  prairie.  Soil 
rich  grass  tolerable  game  scarce  snakes  plenty 
and  the  thought  of  my  wife  and  my  boy 
were  constant.     Some  company   fell  in. 

9th,  some  8  or  10  m  campt  in  prairie  on 
mound  no  timber  in  sight.  Stopped  at  noon 
organized,  adopted  constitution  T.  R.  Knopp 
Captain,  Maxey  Assistant  Captain  the  wea- 
ther cold  and  cloudy  appearance  of  rain. 
Whittock  and  Fowler  sick,  traveling  slow, 
nothing  extraordinary  happened  the  camp  in 
good  spirits. 

10th,  some  10  m  campt  on  Turkey  creek 
scattering  timber,  weather  cool,  a  talk  of 
more  company,  colera  in  the  camp  (Whit- 
tock) a  spirit  of  gloom  seems  to  prevail  over 
the  camp.  Every  soul  concerned  and  feelings 
not  expressed  but  conveyed  by  the  soul,  by 
the  jestures  of  every  creature. 

11th,  James  Whittock  died  with  colera 
about  noon,  spoken  high  of  by  his  comrades 
died  in  great  agony,  a  cloud  of  rain  passed 
over  in  which  the  spirit  took  shelter  that 
wafted  his  soul  away.  We  hurried  him  who 
left  his  beloved  wife  for  gold,  whose  flesh 
was  not  yet  cold,  campt  in  prairie  neither 
wood  nor  water  the  prowling  wolves  made 
music  for  the  night,  timber  and  game  scarce 
soil  extremely  rich. 

12th,  some  25m  all  prairies  along  the  road; 
timber  on  either  side  from  one  to  two  miles 
a  forced  march  for  no  cause  except  to  show 
the  hand  of  inexperience  and  ignoring  offi- 
cers. The  rapture  scenes  that  rises  to  my 
sight  make  our  travels  —  fields  of  delight, 
campt  in  the  regions  of  the  creek  Nemahah 
a  great  stream  of  water  passed  a  pond  in 
prairie  of  pretty  and  clear  water. 
'  Sun.  13th  lay  by  on  the  Nemaha,  turkeys 
in  camp  prim  and  brown  overhauled  our  load. 
Elected  a  second  captain.  James  Bowers, 
rained  in  morning. 

M.  14th,  20  mi  campt  on  small  branch  an 
ox  took  lame  timber  and  water  plenty  wea- 
ther cold  and  cloudy  appearance  of  rain  a 
d-ead  ox  found  a  calf  and  shot  it. 

T.  15th,  18  or  20  mi  campt  on  Blue  river 
a  considerable  stream  of  water  clear  and  cold 
some  body  had  left  their  wagon  some  trouble 
to  get  a  cross  timber  tolerable  prairie  coun- 
try rolling  country  game  scarce. 

W.  16th,  15  m  lame  ox  campt  in  prairie 
these  prairies  divine  wrought  by  the  hand 
of  God  Divine  took  in  company  2  wagons 
one  lady  passed  10  graves  twixt  here  and  St. 
Joseph  a  creek  in  evening  game  scarce  soil 
good. 

Th.  17,  16  miles  prairie  in  rising  mounds 
the  camp  in  good  spirits  our  team  fresh. 

F.  18,  18  miles  prairie  some  timber  passed 
the  man  by  his  trunk  supposed  to  be  set  out 
crossed  several  streams  of  water. 

Sat.  19th,  20  m  camped  on  little  Blue  river 
it  is  pretty  high  a  great  stream  of  water 
colera  in  the  camp  rained  in  the  morning  and 
about  3  o'clock  a.  m.  an  Indian  rode  into 
camp  at  the  top  of  speed  was  apprehended 
by  the  guard  and  rode  away  as  fast  as  he 
came  he  came  no  doubt  to  see  what  chance 
there  was  for  a  stampede  I  was  on  guard 
myself  and  had  he  came  a  jump  or  two  far- 


ther  I  should  have  shot.  I  had  my  gun  in 
good  trim  he  frightened  the  cattle  this  was 
the  first  frightful  times  I  have  seen  we  ran 
great  risk  we  passed  soon  some  fellows  from 
Illinois,  Blooming-ton  who  lost  40  yoke  of 
oxen  come  into  game  country  here  we  saw 
very  frequently  the  head  of  an  antelope  or 
deer  brought  to  the  road  side  grass  and  soil 
verv  poor  poor  yielding  soil.  Comer  still 
worse  most  likely  will  die. 

S.  20th  lay  by  on  the  Blue.  Comer  died 
of  colera  died  very  suddenly  great  pain.  Had 
plenty  of  fish  saw  signs  of  Buffalo.  Died 
about  4  o'clock. 

M.  21,  18  or  20  mi  campt  on  Blue  poor 
soil  nothing  of  importance  took  place. 

T.  22nd,  20  m  campt  on  branch  of  Blue 
water  and  wood  plenty  of  game. 

W.  23rd,  some  20  mi  campt  on  Piatt  River 
the  river  surprised  us  all  so  large  over  one 
mile  across  scarce  of  timber  the  bluffs  look 
as  desolate  and  romantic  saw  antelope  plenty 
his  surprising  speed  can  baffle  both  horses 
and  guns. 

Th.  24th,  12  m  campt  4  miles  this  side  of 
the  Fort  Chiles  passed  the  fort  about  noon 
I  stopped  in  fort  half  day  and  all  night  had 
a  wagon  box  made  there  the  fort  was  built 
of  sod  not  a  solid  material  house  in  fort  a 
perfect   new  city,  torrents  of  rain  fell. 

F.  25th,  12  m  campt  on  Platte  had  wood 
and  water  road  bad  lots  of  teams  swampt 
broke  down  and  timber  scarce  soil  poor,  had 
a   fight. 

Sat.  26th  18  m  camp  Platte  lots  of  frost 
grass  good. 

S.  27th.  18  m  campt  on  Platte  beautiful 
day  quite  warm  and  pleasant.  Saw  elks, 
antelope,  killed  wolf  and  hare  roads  getting 
better.^ 

M.  28th,  18  m  campt  on  a  little  stream  a 
tributary  of  Piatt  killed  2  antelope  in  buffalo 
country. 

T.  29th,  15  m  campt  on  Platte  rained  all 
night  and  blew  like  pell-mell. 

W.  30  Lay  by  cold  rained  all  day  very 
uncomfortable. 

Thr  31st  12  m  killed  a  buffalo.  Saw  an  elk 
and  Antelope  and  campt  water  and  wood 
Rocky   Bluffs   appeared. 

F.  June  1st,  IS  m  campt  on  a  slew  on  the 
South  Fork  of  Platte  had  lots  of  buffalo 
meat. 

Sat.  2nd,  15  m  campt  on  big  Platte  killed 
another  buffalo  crossed  at  the  lower  ford. 

S.  3rd,  16  m  campt  on  Platte  killed  antel- 
opes lots. 

M.  4  lay  by  several  of  our  wagon  box  and 
repacked    (lion   took   lame). 

T.  5th.  15  m  campt  on  river  ox  very  lame 
had  to  turn  him  out  passed  some  wigwams 
and   Indians  of  the  Sioux  tribe. 

W.  6th,  15  m  ray  train  before  I  had  stayed 
behind  with  my  ox  behind  some  8  or  10  m. 

Th.  7  still  behind  ox  lame. 

Friday,  June  8th,  Still  behind  come  in  sight 
of  the  courthouse  rock  a  stupendous  sight 
some  3  or  4  hundred  feet  high  one  of  natures 
curiosities  has  the  appearance  of  an  ancient 
castle  a  romantic  scene  a  place  where  the 
poet  might  take  tea  and  see  the  sun  set  lit- 
erally in  the  distant  western  ground  come  in 
sight  of   Chimney   Rock. 


June,  Sunday  10th,  20  miles,  camped  on 
Scotts  Bluffs  at  a  spring.  Bluffs  clothed  with 
cedar  and  pine. 

Monday,  11th,  25  miles,  camped  on  a  small 
Creek  passed  Scotts  Bluffs  came  in  sight  of 
Rocky  Mountains,  Laramie  Peak,  its  appear- 
ance is  as  a  rising  cloud  it  was  high,  the  nest 
of  things. 

Tuesday,  12th,  18  miles,  camped  on  the 
Platte  Willman   behind  with  lame   steer. 

Wednesday,  13th,  5  or  6  miles,  we  camped 
at  Fort  Laramie,  in  fording  the  river  we  got 
all  things  wet.  The  company  drove  off  and 
left  us  in  distress. 

Thursday,  14th,  still  at  the  fort  trailer  wa- 
gons, etc  etc. 

Friday,  15th,  8  miles  left  the  fort  and  camp- 
ed on  Platte  nothing  extra  ordinary  took 
place. 

Saturday  16th,  20  miles  camped  on  a  small 
swift  stream  fed  from  the  mountains  passed 
the  warm  springs. 

Sunday,  17th,  lay  by  fitted  our  wagon  set 
the  tires  and  nut  in  an  extra  etc. 

Monday,  18th,  some  18  miles,  camped  by 
a  fine  stream  of  water.  Horse  creek  found 
a  box  of  coffee  commenced  to  travel  with 
company  Buel  of  Missouri  and  Levens  of  Il- 
linois, crossed  the  Black  Hills  some  of  them 
very  broken. 

Tuesday,  19th.  10  miles,  still  on  the  Black- 
hills  and  camped  on  them. 

Wednesday,  20th,  16  miles,  camped  6  miles 
from  Platte  at  a  spring. 

Thursdav.  21st.  18  mil^s,  struck  Platte  at 
Deer  Creek,  Jerseyville  Company  was  cross- 
ing the  Platte  camped  on  Platte. 

Friday  22nd,  17  miles  camped  at  the  More- 
ior  ferry. 

Saturday,  23rd,  lay  at  the  ferry  refitted  our 
Buggy. 

Sunday,  24th.  crowed  the  ferry  and  went 
5  miles  camned  on   Platte. 

Monday,  25th,  28 V2  miles  camped  at  Wil- 
low spring  saw  any  amount  of  deer  and  lame 
oxens. 

Tuesday,  26th.  15  miles,  camped  on  a  small 
stream  of  water,  fine  lots  of  ^mall  rains  a 
heavenly  shower  refreshed  animate  creation 
as  well  as 8  miles  from  S"*ePtwater. 

Wednesday  27th,  came  to  Independence 
Rock  it  is  a  large  mass  of  solid  rock  cov- 
ered with  a  thousand  names,  mine  I  left  on 
the  W  side,  it  seems  to  have  been  ushered 
from  the  bowels  of  th^  earth. 

Thursday  28th,  15  miles  camped  on  Sweet- 
water passed  the  Devils  Gate  it  is  a  pap  in 
the  mountains  which  the  water  foucht 
through,  some  thirty  feet  wide  the  banks  400 
feet  perpendicular  high. 

Friday  29th,  16  or  18  miles  camped  on  the 
Sweetwater. 

Saturday  30th,  15  miles  on  Sweetwater  I 
killed  a  mountain  hare  and  an  antelope  I 
went  hunting  myself. 

July,  Sunday  1st,  lay  by  on   Sweetwater. 

Monday,  2nd.  8  miles,  roueh  roads  saw 
lots  of  snow  wind  cold  high  hills  approach- 
ing  the   mountains. 

Tuesday  3rd,  15  miles  came  to  the  summit 
nassed  the  ice  springs  had  plenty  of  ice  the 
mountains  amazing  high.  A  person  to  be 
placed    there    of    a    sudden    would    wake    in 


their  dream  that  he  had  escaped  from  this 
earth  would  think  he  was  in  realms  unknown. 
Started  on  the  descent  then  down  the  rugged 
cliffs  we  passed  our  way  over,  our  wagons 
began  to  rack  and  tremble  loose.  Came  to 
the  pacific  springs  and  camped. 

Wednesday  4th,  now  broke  on  us  the  Am- 
erican Anniversary  the  bright  sun  seemed 
to  bring  good  and  merry  tidings  from  the 
east.     12  miles  camped  on   Little  Sandy. 

Thursday  5th,  12  miles  camped  on  Big 
Sandy,  caught  the  old  company  took  the 
cut  off. 

Friday,  6th,  Lay  by  until  three  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon,  then  went  for  Green  River  53 
miles  no  water  first  end  of  road  good  the  last 
pretty  rough  got  Green  River  about  Sunday 
8,h,  ferried  the  river. 

Monday  9th,  8  miles  camped  on  a  creek 
fine  grass  passed  the  old  company  at  noon. 

Tues,  Wed,  Thurs,  Friday  traveling  from 
Green  River  to  Bare  River  good  grass  and 
1  lenty  of  sage  and  come  to  Bare  River  on 
Friday.  And  on  Sat.  Sun.  Mon.  Tue.  & 
Wed.,  till  noon  traveling  down  Bare  River 
which  is  a  camping  ground  from  where  we 
came  to  it  till  we  left.  The  Soda  Springs 
are  a  great  curiosity.     We  left  Bare  River. 

Wednesday  18th,  at  noon  traveled  15  miles 
o"n*Tt  westerly  direction  had  splendid  grass 
and  water  and  willows.  Took  Hedgepeth's 
cut  off. 

Saturday  21st,  15  miles  grass  wood  and 
water  plenty  at  noon  and  night. 

Sunday,  22nd,  25  miles  no  water  in  this 
distance  good  grass  and  tolerable  good  road 
come  to  water  in  spring  hollow  water  and 
grass  plenty,  mountain  sage  also.  The  gen- 
eral tenor  of  all  the  aforesaid  cut  off  is  good 
road  with  the  exception  of  a  few  steep  short 
pulls. 

Monday  23rd,  9  miles  camped  at  a  spring 
lust  on  the  W.  side  of  the  summit  of  the 
mountains. 

Tuesday  24th,  23  miles  camped  on  a  creek 
in  valley. 

Wednesday  25th,  6  miles  camped  on  raft 
on  river  in  sight  of  the  Hall  Road. 

October  17th,  1849.  Westward.  This' dav 
W.  C.  Crabb  and  self  desolved,  one  yoke  of 
oxen  and  one  wagon  $142.50  divided  71%. 
The  cradle,  1  shovel,  1  frying  pan,  1  tin,  1 
coffee  pot  and  blue  buckett.  Note  of  80 
dollars  to  James  Brady,  Hankins,  Ceavers, 
Davis  and  Hannibal  House  *  *  * 

Sat.  Dec.  8th,  1849.  Started  from  Sacre- 
mento  to  getting  out  timber  up  the  Sacri- 
mento  with  following  names.  Commenced 
work  Fridav  14th. 

Alvey  s/4  F.     S.     S.     M.  T. 

Baker  %  \        \  11 

Burk  3/4       1        l      14        1 

Constant  yA       \       \     y2       \ 

Caley  V4       1        1      y,       \ 

Williams  y2       \       \     y2       \ 

Hauley  y       1     y2       \     y2 

An  account  of  duebills  out  to  the  following 
persons  bearing  date  Jan.  3,  1850. 
T.  2nd, 

Burk  the  sum  $115.00 

VV.  W.  Sheby  the  sum  122.50 

Constant   the   sum  87.25 

Sealv  the  sum  71.25 

T.  B.  Alvev  paid  84.00 


March  1st,  1850  Received  of  W.  W.  Chap- 
man 164  stick  of  hewn  timber  from  7  to  1 1 
feet  long  and  from  four  to  eight  square 
inches  amount  1476  feet,  one  hundred  and 
seventy  feet  which  is  due  Hardy  the  afore- 
said lumber  received  from  Alex  Little  to  be 
sold  at  30  cents  per  foot. 

March  the  2nd,  1850  This  day  Alex  Little 
myself  and  Hosa,  an  Indian  boy  started  from 
Vernon   to  the  mines  of  gold. 

March  3rd  took  another  Indian  William, 
Indians  left  May  the  7th,   1850. 

March  14th,  Things  which  I  bought  sugar 
and  flour  $7.80,  flour  pork,  20.00  Beef  11.00, 
Beans  and  Eugar  9.00,  shoes  3  pair  *  *  * 
12.00  tobacco  1.00  to  E.  Eldred  for  hailing 
goods  and  tools  15.00  by  Joseph  Crabb  beef 
&  25.00  from  ship  3.00     *     *     * 

September  6,  1850  left  the  mines  Francisco 
17th,  arrived  at  Reoley's  7th  of  October,  ar- 
rived at  San  Juan  4th  of  Mav,  left  San  Juan 
14th  Mav. 


Duluth,  Minn.,  July  5th,  1898. 
Col.  C.  G.  Coutant,  Laramie,  Wyoming. 

Dear  Col:— 

Your  letter  enclosing  some  pages  of  history 
of  Fort  Washakie,  only  reached  me  today. 

I  have  such' a  press  of  work  on  hand  that 
I  am  unable  to  devote  much  time  to  the 
doing  of  any  "history"  work,  but  have  run 
off  something  in  that  line  that  you  are  wel- 
come to  if  you  feel  inclined  to  use,  and  if  it 
be  not  too  late  to  be  available,  which  I  ex- 
pect is  the  case.  Should  you  wish  to  use  any 
part  of  that  which  I  send,  do  not  hesitate  to 
use  a  blue  pencil  on  it. 

Yours  truly, 

R.  A.  TARRUP. 

The  telegraph  line  was  built  after  my  time. 
Dr.  Maghee  of  Rawlins  could  tell  you  all 
about   it. 

Fort  Washakie,  Wyoming. 

Latitude  42-59  North. 

Longtitude  31-51  West  Wash. 

Located  on  the  Shoshone  Indian  Reserva- 
tion in  the  Wind  River  Valley,  thirty-two 
miles  a  little  east  of  north  from  Atlantic 
City,  Wyoming.  The  Post  to  which  this  is 
the  successor  was  established  on  June  28th, 
1869,  on  the  site  now  occupied  by  Lander, 
the  county  seat  of  Fremont  County,  Wyo- 
ming, and  was  then  designated  as  a  sub-post 
of  Fort  Bridger,  Wyoming. 

It  was  named  Camp  Augur  in  compliment 
to  Brigadier  General  C.  C.  Augur,  U.  S.  A., 
then  commanding  the  Department  of  the 
Platte. 

The  Post  was  established  in  compliance 
with  the  terms  of  a  treaty  with  the  Shoshone 
and  Bannock  Indians  for  their  protection 
against  the  Sioux,  Arapahoes,  and  Cheyenne 
as  well  as  other  hostile  bands. 

Temporary  quarters  were  soon  erected  and 
occupied  by  a  company  of  the  4th  U.  S.  In- 
fantry under  command  of  Colonel  Bartlett 
of  the  same  regiment.  Its  designation  was 
changed  to  Camp  Brown  in  accordance  with 
General  Orders  No.  12,  Headquarters  De- 
partment of  the  Platte,  March  28,  1870,  and 
on  August  20,  of  the  same  year,  it  was  an- 
nounced as  an  independent  Post  by  General 
Orders  No.  35,  Headquarters  Department  of 


10 


the  Platte,  series  of  1870  in  honor  of  the 
memory  of  Captain  Frederick  H.  Brown, 
18th  Infantry,  who  was  killed  at  the  Fort 
Phil  Kearny  massacre,  December  21,  1866. 

In  the  spring  of  1871  Captain  Robert  A. 
Torrey,  13th  Infantry,  U.  S.  Cavalry,  re- 
lieved the  garrison  then,  at  Camp  Brown 
and  was  given  orders  to  select  a  site  for  the 
post  to  be  moved  to,  which  was  done  June 
26th,  1871,  the  location  being  on  the  south 
bank  of  the  South  Fork  of  Little  Wind  River 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  above  its 
junction  with  the  North  Fork,  where  Fort 
Washakie  now  stands,  on  the  Shoshoni  In- 
dian Reservation;  the  old  post  was  aban- 
doned, all  available  material  being  transport- 
ed to  and  used  in  the  construction  of  the  new 
post.  Adobes  were  the  material  selected  for 
the  construction  of  the  post,  and  by  autumn 
the  officers  and  troops  were  well  and  com- 
fortably housed,  almost  entirely  by  their  own 
labor. 

Lieut.  H.  C.  Pratt,  13th  Infantry,  was  one 
of  the  first  officers  to  serve  at  the  new  post. 
Lieut.  John  B.  Guthrie,  since  captain  of  his 
own  old  company,  and  recentl}'  wounded  in 
the  battles  before  Santiago  de  Cuba  was  sta- 
tioned for  a  considerable  time  at  the  post. 
Dr.  R.  B.  Grimes,  now  a  well  known  phy- 
sician at  Cheyenne,  Wyoming,  was  one  of 
the  early  post  surgeons,  and  so  was  Dr. 
Maghee,  the  well  known  physician  and  sur- 
geon at  Rawlins,  Wyoming,  who  rendered 
effective  service  both  at  the  post  and  with 
Captain  Bate's  expedition  against  hostile  In- 
dians. 

Captain  A.  E.  Bates,  since  a  Brigadier  Gen- 
eral of.U.  S.  Volunteers,  with  his  Company 
of  the  2nd  U.  S.  Cavalry  formed  a  part  of 
the  garrison  at  an  early  day. 

Major  Baker  of  the  2nd  Cavalry,  a  well 
known  fighter  of  the  war  of  the  rebellion, 
and  later  in  Indian  campaigns,  commanded 
the  post  at  one  time,  being  relieved  in  the 
winter  of  73-74  to  command  an  expedition 
against  hostile  Indians. 

Hostile  Indians  made  an  attack  on  the  old 
post  soon  after  the  arrival  of  Company  "A," 
13th  Infantry,  resulting  in  a  very  lively  skir- 
mish which  took  place  within  sight  of  where 
Lander  now  stands,  no  serious  damage  be- 
ing done  by  the  enemy  who  were  beaten  off. 
Somewhat  later  a  woman  living  near  the 
site  of  the  abandoned  post  was  murdered 
and  mutilated  by  Indians.  A  number  of 
other  hostile  raids  were  made  at  different 
times,  the  settlers  being  kept  in  an  almost 
constant   state  of  alarm. 

In  the  spring  of  1873  the  commanding  of- 
ficer of  the  post  was  ordered  to  take  a  com- 
pany of  men  and  explore  toward  the  head 
of  Big  Wind  River  to  ascertain  whether  a 
practicable  route  for  a  wagon  road  existed, 
and  loaded  wagons  were  taken  above  the 
mouth   of   De   Noire   Fork. 

In  the  early  spring  of  1874  the  Northern 
Cheyennes  and  Arapahoes,  two  bands  at  that 
time  affiliated  with  the  Indians  belonging  to 
Red  Cloud's  Agency;  usually  made  their 
home  at  "Pumpkin  Butte,"  near  the  Powder 
River,  or  further  west  in  the  valley  of  the 
Big  Horn  where  the  Wind  River  breaks 
through    the    Big    Horn    Mountains.      From 


this  last  point  they  commenced  a  series  of 
raids  upon  the  friendly  Shoshones  near  Camp 
Brown  (Fort  Washakie)  in  the  Wind  River 
country,  also  stealing  stock  from  the  settlers 
in  the  valleys  of  the  Big  and  Little  Popo- 
aggie  Rivers. 

Captain  A.  E.  Bates  with  Troop  "B,"  2nd 
Cavalry,  a  detachment  of  Company  "A,"  13th 
Infantry  and  about  one  hundred  and  sixty 
friendly  Shoshones,  started  from  Camp 
Brown  (Fort  Washakie)  to  break  up  a  ren- 
dezvous of  the  Northern  Cheyennes  and 
Arapahoes,  discovered  about  ninety  miles 
from  Camp  Brown,  and  on  July  4th,  1874, 
came  up  with  and  engaged  them,  and  after 
a  gallant  fight  completely  defeated  the  hos- 
tiles  near  Bad  Water  branch  of  the  Wind 
River,  Wyoming.  Twenty-six  Indians  were 
killed,  over  twenty  wounded  and  two  hun- 
dred and  thirty  ponies  captured.  The  troops 
had  four  killed  and  six  wounded,  among  the 
latter  being  Lieut.  R.  H.  Young,  4th  Infan- 
try. 

On  December  30th,  1878,  the  designation 
of  the  post  was  changed  to  Fort  Washakie, 
pursuant  to  General  Orders  No.  9,  Head- 
quarters Division  of  the  Missouri,  series  of 
1878,  in  compliment  to  an  Indian  named 
"Washakie,"  chief  of  the  Shoshones  in  Wyo- 
ming, who  is  a  half  breed  Snake  and  Flat- 
head, with  a  benevolent  and  kindly  expres- 
sion of  countenance,  well  made,  strictly  hon- 
est, and  possesses  superior  intelligence  and  in- 
fluence, brave  to  a  fault,  and  long  time  friend 
of  the  white  man. 

On  April  29th,  1882,  Lieut.  George  H. 
Morgan,  Third  Cavalry,  with  a  detachment 
of  six  men  from  Troop  "K"  of  the  same 
regiment,  was  sent  from  the  post  to  arrest 
"Ute  Jack,"  a  chief  of  the  White  River  Utes. 
Armed  with  knife,  "Ute  Jack"  resisted  arrest, 
attempted  to  escape,  when  he  was  wounded 
by  a  shot  from  the  guard.  He  then  took 
refuge  in  an  Indian  tepee  where  he  obtained 
a  carbine  and  succeeded  in  killing  the  ser- 
geant of  the  detachment.  Major  Mason, 
Third  Cavalry,  arrived  on  the  spot  soon  after, 
and  further  measures  were  taken,  resulting  in 
the  capture  and  death  of  the  Indian.  Fort 
Washakie  has  been  continuously  occupied 
from  its  establishment  to  date. 


CHERRY  CREEK  MASSACRE 

W.  W.  Towse,  my  father,  a  native  of 
Qubec,  Maine,  passed  away  at  Chivington, 
Colo.,  four  years  ago  at  the  age  fo  84.  In 
his  youth  he  had  been  a  seafaring  man,  went 
to  California  through  Panama,  came  to  Wyo- 
ming ahead  of  the  Union  Pacific,  had  a 
ranch  at  Rawlins.  I  last  visited  him  in  1915. 
He  then  told  of  the  Indian  affair  outlined 
in  the  Coutant  notes.  The  object  of  the  at- 
tack, which  was  made  on  the  east  and  west 
ends  of  the  town  at  the  same  time  was  to 
secure  horses  in  a  corral  near  the  Springs. 
Several  Indians  fired  on  us  children  at  long 
range.  Our  mother  rushed  us  in  the  old  log 
house  and  barricaded  the  door.  At  the  east 
end  of  the  town  Perry  Smith  at  the  slaugh- 
ter house  replied  to  the  fire  of  the  hostiles. 
This  group  quickly  rejoined  the  party  at  the 
west  end.  Father,  on  the  best  horse  in  the 
settlement  and  with  an  excellent  rifle  started 


11 


with  several  others  after  the  Indians  and 
overtook  them  at  a  place  called  "Cherry 
Creek."  Here  the  little  engagement  took 
place  as  described  in  the  Coutant  notes.  Fa- 
ther said  the  Indians  made  a  great  effort  to 
carry  off  the  body  of  the  one  he  had  killed. 
I  asked  him  why  he  exposed  himself  as  he 
did  and  he  said  that  he  had  only  contempt 
for  an  Indian  with  a  rifle,  that  the  Redman 
did  not  understand  the  "use  of  a  hind  sight.' 
It  is  related  that  several  bullets  broke  the 
dust  near  father. 

The  body  of  the  Indian  was  taken  to  the 
railway  track  and  brought  into  town  on  a 
switch  engine.  After  much  bantering  father 
proceeded  to  scalp  the  Indian,  though  he  did 
not  care  for  that  sort  of  thing.  Mother  would 
not  allow  the  scalp  in  the  house  and  father 
and  "Uncle  Dan"  Towse,  his  brother,  stowed 
it  in  a  large  tin  can  in  the  barn  for  the  night. 
A  few  days  later  father  sold  it  to  a  Chicago 
newspaper  man  for  $50.00. 

1  believe  that  father  was  also  with  the 
party  that  killed  a  number  of  raiding  Indians 
at  a  place  called  "Lone  Pine."  This  affair 
was  investigated  by  a  congressional  com- 
mittee, but  nothing  came  of  it.  Father  also 
joined  a  number  of  prospecting  parties  north 
of^the-  Sweetwater  into  the  South  Pass  coun- 
try, "^vvhere  they  met  fighting  Indians  and  on 
one  occasion  were  besieged  in  a  log  cabin 
for  several  days.  They  were  well  prepared 
for  this.  The  camp  was  on  a  hilltop  and 
they  had  ample  supplies  of  food  and  water. 

My  Uncle  Dan  Towse,  who  afterwards  be- 
came a  banker  in  Southern  Colorado,  was 
also  a  typical  frontiersman.  He  had  the  rep- 
utation of  being  the  only  man  who  ever  made 
Jack  Watkins,  a  famous  bad  man  of  the  day, 
"take  water." 

ED  TOWSE,  of  Honolulu,  T.  H. 

Chevcnne,  Wyoming. 

July  2,  1923. 


EARLY  EXPLORERS 

By  GEORGE  H.  CROSS 
Last  winter  our  Legislature  commenced 
making  inquiries  regarding  early  explorers 
with  the  intention  of  giving  their  names  to 
new  counties,  but  they  ignored  one  I  call  the 
greatest  early  explorer  of  Wyoming,  a  man 
who  made  himself  immortal.  I  refer  to  Rob- 
ert Stuart,  who  in  1812,  as  leader  of  the  Astor 
Expedition  crossed  what  is  now  Wyoming, 
on  his  way  to  report  to  Mr.  Astor  in  New 
York. 

Robert  Stuart  with  his  little  band  of  heroes 
started  from  Astoria,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  river  on  the  29th  day  of  June, 
1812,  well  equipped  with  both  saddle  and 
pack  horses,  and  after  a  long,  hazardous  jour- 
ney, reached  the  border  of  what  is  now  Wyo- 
ming, where  the  Indians  stole  all  their  horses, 
leaving  them  on  foot  in  an  unknown  country 
among  hostile  savages. 

You  can  imagine  how  they  felt  probably. 
Some  of  you  old  timers  have  been  in  the 
same  predicament  when  you  lost  your  horses 
in  the  mountains  or  on  the  prairie  and  hunted 
them  for  days  without  finding  them,  running 
the  risk  of  being  scalped.  Fortunately  for 
the  Astorians  they  got  a  horse,  although 
jaded,  for  a  few  trinkets  from  a  friendly  band 


of  Indians,  which  proved  a  savior  to  them, 
as  among  other  things  they  made  him  carry 
their  scanty  supply  of  bedding.  Several  times 
they  nearly  died  of  starvation,  as  no  game 
of  any  kind  was  encountered  for  many  days. 
The  severity  of  the  winter  had  driven  it 
south,  but  a  trap  they  had,  proved  a  God- 
send, as  with  it  they  caught  a  beaver,  and 
on  one  occasion  a  wolf.  They  got  into  what 
is  now  Wyoming  in  October,  1812,  passing 
the  Teton  mountains.  These  mountains  re- 
ceived their  name  from  French-Canadian 
trappers  in  the  employ  of  the  Northwest 
Fur  Company,  Teton  meaning  "a  woman's 
breast." 

In  1787,  McKenzie,  McTavish,  McGillivray, 
McLeod,  and  other  Scotch  fur  traders  of 
Montreal,  Canada,  founded  the  famous 
Northwest  Fur  Company,  the  most  aggres- 
sive fur  company  that  ever  operated  on  the 
continent  of  North  America.  The  "Nor- 
westers"  as  they  were  familiarly  called,  be- 
came at  this  time  the  chief  influence  in  trade 
and  in  public  affairs  in  French  Canada.  The 
executive  and  legislative  councils  of  Lower 
Canada  were  made  up  of  Nor-westers  or 
those  under  their  influence.  Even  the  judges 
on  the  bench  must  bow  before  this  powerful 
combination.  Although  Canada  had  been 
taken  from  France  by  Great  Britain  less  than 
thirty  years  previously,  this  company  won 
the  affections  of  the  French  Canadians,  be- 
tween two  and  three  thousand  of  whom  they 
employed  as  trappers  and  voyagers,  dispers- 
ing them  over  the  Hudson  Bay  Company's 
territory,  now  known  as  the  Candaian  North- 
west, the  States  of  Oregon,  Washington, 
Idaho,  Montana  and  Northern  Wyoming, 
the  boundary  line  between"  Canada  and  the 
United  States  not  being  at  that  time  desig- 
nated. Forts  were  established  over  this  im- 
mense territory  by  the  Company.  The  chief 
officials  were  called  by  them  bourgeois,  and 
were  Scotchmen,  and  the  employees,  French 
Canadians.  This  accounts  for  so  many  of 
the  physical  objects  in  our  western  States 
having  French  names. 

To  show  the  extent  of  this  company's 
power  and  influence,  John  Jacob  Astor,  who 
established  Fort  Astoria  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia  river  in  1811,  was  regarded  by  it 
as  an  intruder,  and  was  boldly  opposed  by 
its  trappers,  who  occupied  the  headwaters  of 
the  streams  and  succeeded  in  monopolizing 
the  fur  trade.  Mr.  Astor  was  glad  to  sell 
out  in  1813  to  these  determined  traders  of 
Montreal. 

In  1805  Lewis  and  Clark  had  given  up  all 
hope  of  finding  a  pass  across  the  mountains 
on  their  exploring  journey  to  the  Pacific 
ocean,  when  the  Indian  woman,  Sacajawea, 
wife  of  Chaboneau,  an  employee  of  the 
Northwest  Fur  Company,  snowed  them  a 
way  through  the  mountain  defiles.  The  Nor'- 
westers  had  evidently  overrun  this  unknown 
country  prior  to  the  advent  of  Lewis  and 
Clark. 

To  return  to  our  explorers,  Robert  Stuart 
and  his  companions,  who  after  passing  the 
Teton  mountains  hopelessly  wandered  in  dif- 
ferent directions  until  they  discovered  the 
Sweetwater  river.  Descending  it  they  came 
to    the    North    Platte    river    which    they    fol- 


12 


lowed,  as  it  ran  in  an  easterly  direction,  be- 
lieving it  would  lead  them  to  the  Missouri 
river  and  civilization,  passing  on  the  wav  the 
present  site  of  the  Pathfinder  dam,  and  going 
into  winter  quarters  just  below  it,  where  they 
built  a  warm,  comfortable  log  cabin.  As 
game  was  plentiful  they  soon  had  their  larder 
well  stocked  with  buffalo,  deer  and  elk  meat, 
sufficient  to  carry  them  through  the  winter. 
The  party  now  reveled  in  abundance  after 
all  they  had  suffered  from  hunger,  fatigue 
and  the  severity  of  a  cold,  hard  winter. 

From  such  happy  dreams  they  were  start- 
led one  morning  at  day-break  by  a  savage 
yell,  and  much  to  their  dismay  saw  the  tim- 
ber on  the  river  alive  with  Indian  warriors, 
whom  they  soon  found  out  to  be  an  Arapahoe 
war  party  on  the  trail  of  some  Crows  who 
had  carried  off  some  of  their  women  and 
most  of  their  horses,  from  a  village  situated 
several  days  to  the  east. 

The  Stuart  party  invited  the  Indians  to 
partake  of  their  hospitality,  which  they  were 
delighted  to  do,  gormandizing  all  day  and 
for  a  good  part  of  the  following  night.  The 
next  morning,  fortunately  for  the  Astorians, 
the  Indians  left,  carrying  with  them  winter 
stores  to  last  them  a  week.  As  soon  as  the 
Indians  were  out  of  sight,  the  little  party 
held  a  council  and  determined  to  move  and 
thus  take  no  chance  of  the  savages  returning, 
so  on  the  13th  day  of  December,  1812,  they 
left  their  comfortable  winter  camp,  where 
they  had  enjoyed  sweet  repose,  and  a  well 
earned  rest  for  five  short  weeks. 

The  weather  was  extremely  cold,  the  snow 
deep  and  crusted  through,  which  they  broke 
at  every  step,  causing  soreness  of  the  feet. 
They  hurried  on,  sleeping  where  night  over- 
took them,  going  down  the  north  side  of  the 
Platte  river,  passing  in  sight  of  the  present 
towns  of  Casper,  Glenrock  and  Douglas,  and 
the  future  site  of  historic  Fort  Laramie,  and 
going  into  winter  quarters  a  second  time, 
about  on  the  border  of  the  present  States  of 
Wyoming  and  Nebraska.  There  they  so- 
journed for  a  time,  reaching  St.  Louis  on  the 
30th  of  April. 

Robert  Stuart  blazed  the  way  for  a  new 
road  across  the  continent.  He  will  always 
be  known  as  the  Pioneer  Explorer  of  the 
North  Platte  River  and  Overland  Trail,  the 
discoverer  of  the  most  practical  route  across 
the  muontains,  which  saved  the  great  Oregon 
Territory  from  falling  under  the  Dominion 
of  Canada. 

What  has  Wyoming  done  to  honor  the 
memory  of  her  greatest  explorer?  Nothing. 
Even  President  Roosevelt,  an  historian,  dis- 
played great  ignorance  of  our  early  history, 
by  naming  the  Pathfinder  dam  after  a  man 
who  did  not  pass  its  site  until  thirty  years 
after  Robert  Stuart  had  explored  it,  and  then 
with  all  the  comforts  of  a  LTnited  States  army 
officer,  with  troops  looking  after  his  welfare. 

A  word  or  two  about  Fort  Laramie,  the 
historical  ground  of  our  State.  There  is  more 
of  history  connected  with  it  than  any  other 
part  of  Wyoming.  This  fort  was  established 
by  Robert  Campbell,  in  1834.  He  called  it 
Fort  William  after  his  friend  and  partner, 
William  Sublette.  Unlike  our  Legislature, 
he  did  not  consider  Sublette  very  euphonious. 


Campbell  and  Sublett  sold  the  fort  to  Jim 
Bridger  and  Milton  Sublette,  a  brother  of 
William,  who  turned  it  over  to  the  Ameri- 
can Fur  Company  in  1833.  This  company 
highly  esteemed  the  Sioux  as  great  hunters, 
as  it  had  procured  great  quantities  of  furs 
from  them  through  the  numerous  forts  in  the 
Indian  country,  so  on  its  acquisition  of  Fort 
Laramie  it  sent  two  men,  Kilplin  and  Sibylle 
over  the  Missouri  river,  the  domain  of  the 
Sioux,  to  persuade  some  of  them  to  move  to 
Fort  Laramie. 

The  mission  of  these  men  was  very  success- 
ful as  they  returned  with  one  hundred  lodges 
of  Ogallalas  under  the  command  of  Chief 
Bull-bear.  The  Sioux  could  not  have  been 
strangers  in  the  Fort  Laramie  country  as 
Red  Cloud,  ( Moopeacloud,  lute-red)  claims 
he  was  born  between  Rawhide  creek  and  Fort 
Laramie  in  1819. 

I  was  reading  Major  Powell's  history  of 
Fort  Laramie,  published  in  Frank  Leslie's 
magazine  in  1895,  where  he  mentions  that 
Jacques  Laramie,  from  whom  the  fort  re- 
ceived its  name,  was  a  French  trapper,  who 
was  killed  by  Arapahoe  Indians.  He  was 
not  a  Frenchman.  We  have  had  in  Wyoming 
three  different  French  nations,  namely 
French  Canadians,  our  own  French  from 
Missouri  and  Louisiana  and  Frenchmen  from 
France.  Jacques  Laramie  was  a  French  Ca- 
nadian. 1  paid  a  visit  to  Eastern  Canada 
during  the  war  and  while  there  interviewed 
a  leading  French  Canadian,  who  resented  his 
people  being  called  French.  He  said,  "We 
are  not  French,  having  less  sentiment  for 
and  less  attachment  to  France  than  the 
Americans  have  for  England.  We  are  bit- 
terly opposed  to  conscription  and  taking  part 
in  European  wars." 

In  1846  when  Francis  Parkman,  the  his- 
torian, with  his  friend  Shaw  visited  Fort 
Laramie,  Papin  was  bourgeois  and  Bordeaux 
his  deputy,  both  of  whom  were  French  Ca- 
nadians. You  will  notice  the  Northwest  Fur 
Company's  name  "Bourgeois"  is  used  for  the 
chief  official  of  a  fort.  Fort  Laramie  was 
sold  by  the  American  Fur  Company  to  the 
United  States  Government  in  1849  for  four 
thousand  dollars. 

I  will  now  drift  over  to  later  days  to  epi- 
sodes within  the  memory  of  those  of  us  who 
are  alive,  and  recall  incidents  in  the  history 
of  the   Fort   Fetterman   country. 

Forts  Russell  and  Fetterman  were  estab- 
lished by  the  LTnited  States  Government  in 
1867.  The  year  1868  was  eventful  for  Wyo- 
ming, as  that  was  when  Congress  set  it  off 
as  a  territory.  In  the  same  year  the  great 
Sioux  Treaty  was  signed  at  Fort  Laramie, 
one  of  the  signers  for  the  United  States  Gov- 
ernment being  General  W.  T.  Sherman.  In 
that  treaty  the  government  agreed  to  abolish 
all  forts  north  of  the  Platte  river,  but  unfor- 
tunately for  peace,  the  terms  in  the  treaty 
were  never  fulfilled.  That  is  what  started 
Red  Cloud  on  his  war  against  the  whites. 
He  said,  "If  the  buffalo  are  exterminated,  my 
neople  will  have  to  get  on  their  knees  and 
beg  for  a  living." 

When  we  spoke  o  fthe  Fetterman  country 
in  the  early  seventies,  we  included  the  follow- 
ing creeks,   viz:      Horseshoe,    LaBonte,   Wa- 


13 


teonhound,  La  Prele,  Box  Elder  and  Deer 
creek.  Robert  Walker  and  Skew  Johnson 
established  a  cattle  ranch  on  Horseshoe  in 
1874.  William  Daily,  Clint  Graham,  Joseph 
and  Andrew  Sullivan,  Alec  Wilson  and 
Charles  Campbell  drove  cattle  from  Colorado 
and  settled  on  La  Bonte  creek  in  1875. 

I  remember  that  when  cattle  strayed  from 
there  across  the  North  Platte  river,  it  was 
risky  to  go  after  them.  One  day  some  of 
the  boys  crossed  the  river  to  round  them  up 
and  bring  them  back  to  the  range  on  La 
Bonte  and  to  their  great  surprise  they  dis- 
covered eleven  ponies  grazing  on  a  hillside 
close  to  where  Lost  Creek  empties  into  the 
Platte.  Their  Indian  owners  were  camped 
a  short  distance  away  eating  a  meal.  With- 
out a  moment's  hesitation,  the  boys  urging 
their  horses  to  their  utmost  speed,  dashed 
in  between  the  Indians  and  their  ponies  and 
succeeded  in  driving  the  latter  away  from 
their  owners,  not  however,  without  running 
the  gauntlet  of  a  fusillade  of  bullets  as  the 
Indians,  realizing  their  intentions,  did  their 
utmost  to  frustrate  them.  In  the  scrimmage. 
Daily  was  knocked  off  his  horse  by  a  ball 
that  struck  a  heavy  cartridge  belt  he  wore 
around  his  waist,  causing  it  to  glance  off 
without  doing  any  permanent  injury. 

Tne  captured  horses  were  driven  to  the  La 
Bonte  ranch.  One  was  retained  there  for 
use  as  a  cow  horse,  one  was  ridden  to  Col- 
orado by  one  of  the  boys  and  the  remaining 
nine  were  sent  to  a  ranch  on  Horseshoe, 
near  Cheyenne,  where  they  were  supposed 
to  be  out  of  reach  of  the  Indians,  but  it  was 
not  long  before  the  owners  found  out  their 
whereabouts  and  recovered  the  nine  horses. 
The  other  two  they  never  found. 

In  the  fall  of  1876  Andrew  Sullivan  was 
killed  by  Indians  on  a  tributary  of  La  Bonte 
creek  and  two  years  later  his  brother  was 
killed  by  a  horse  on  La  Prele  creek.  In 
1874  Speed  Stagner  had  a  herd  of  cattle  on 
La  Prele  and  Al  Ayres  and  George  Powell 
wintered  their  oxen  on  the  same  creek.  In 
that  year  John  Hunton  had  cattle  on  the  old 
S  O  Ranch  on  Box  Elder  creek,  which  he 
then  owned.  In  the  year  1877  the  great 
movement  of  cattle  from  the  South  com- 
menced. 

The  following  parties  established  their  cow 
ranches  that  year,  namely:  William  C.  Irvine, 
on  the  Platte  river  where  the  home  of  James 
C.  Shaw  is  now  located.  A  few  miles  farther 
up  the  river,  his  neighbor  was  John  Sparks, 
who  was  aftrew'ards  Governor  of  Nevada. 
Douglas  William  settled  on  Wagon  Hound 
creek,  Emerson  Brothers,  Eugene  Baker.  J. 
H.  Kennedy,  Steve  Day  and  Byron  Hamble- 
ton  on  La  Prele  creek.  Farther  west  on  the 
Platte  river,  Taylor  Brothers  and  Governor 
Boyd,  of  Nebraska,  located.  Major  Wolcott 
settled  on  Deer  creek  and  J.  M.  Carey  and 
Brothers  made  a  cow  camp  out  of  the  ruins 
of  old  Fort  Casper.  Their  foreman,  John 
Lind,  was  a  renowned  cowman.  In  1878 
the  first  cattle  round  up  on  both  sides  of  the 
North  Platte  river,  between  Fort  Laramie 
Had  old  Fort  Casper,  occurred  under  com- 
mand of  Michael  Oxart,  who  was  then  fore- 
man for  William  C.  Irvine.  Th;s  was  prob- 
ably  the   best   equipped   round    ip    in    horses 


and  men   that  ever  took  place   in   Wyoming. 

For  my  valedictory  I  emote  the  words  of 
the  historian,  Francis  Parkman,  written  in 
Boston  in  1872,  over  a  quarter  of  a  century 
after  his  visit  to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  He 
said,  "The  wild  cavalcade  that  defiled  with 
me  down  the  gorges  of  the  Black  Hills  with 
its  paint  and  war  plumes,  fluttering  trophies 
and  savage  embroidery,  bows,  arrows,  lances 
and  shields,  will  never  be  seen  again.  Those 
who  formed  it  have  found  bloody  graves.  The 
mountain  trapper  is  no  more,  and  the  grim 
romance  of  his  wild,  hard  life  is  a  memory 
of  the  past." 

I  will  add:  The  old  forts  are  dismantled; 
neither  the  piercing  blast  of  the  trumpet  nor 
the  warlike  sound  of  the  fife  and  drum  that 
disturbed  the  slumbers  of  the  soldiers  at 
reveille  will  ever  more  be  heard.  Silence 
reigns  within  those  crumbling  walls.  The 
free,  open,  unlimited  range  and  with  it  the 
big  hearted  cowman,  whose  latch  was  ever 
open  to  friend  and  stranger,  and  the  fearless, 
hard-working,  generous  cowboy,  are  gone 
forever. 

The  pioneer  sheds  tears  for  his  lost   Eden. 


Hudson,  Wyoming. 
July  28th,  1923. 
State  Historian, 

Mrs.  Cyrus  Beard, 
Cheyenne,  Wyoming. 
Dear  Mrs.  Beard: — 

In  the  essay  written  by  Agnes  R.  Wright 
regarding  the  South  Pass  Country,  I  wish 
to  call  your  attention  (on  page  6)  to  where 
she  speaks  of  South  Pass  City  and  Camp 
Stambaugh,  also  of  Fort  Stambaugh  and 
what  she  says  might  lead  one  to  imagine  that 
this  was  an  earlier  date  than  Camp  Stam- 
baugh was  established,  which  was  I  believe 
in  1870  or  71.  I  think  71  is  probably  cor- 
rect and  South  Pass  City  in  '68  or  '69.  Camp 
Stambaugh  is  about  six  miles  northeast  of 
South  Pass  City  and  was  named  after  Lieu- 
tenant Stambaugh,  who  was  killed  by  the 
Indians  on  a  little  creek  about  six  miles 
(possiblv  less)  northeast  of  Camp  Stam- 
baugh in  1871  or  72.  I  think  71.  It  don't 
seem  to  me  that  there  could  be  any  fort  by 
that  name  other  than  Camp  Stambaugh.  I 
was  stationed  there  as  telegraph  operator 
from  the  spring  of  1873  to  78  and  it  seems 
to  me  that  if  there  was  such  a  place  as  she 
speaks  of  other  than  Camp  Stambaugh,  where 
I  was  stationed,  I  would  have  known  about 
it.  It  also  leads  one  to  believe  that  the 
South  Pass  is  a  narrow  pass  thru  the  moun- 
tains, while  in  fact  it  is  a  broad,  open,  rolling 
country,  many  miles  wide.  I  am  sure  also 
there  is  an  error  in  her  date  that  in  1881  a 
mail  service  became  necessary  and  that  the 
line  ran  over  the  regular  route. 

In  1873,  the  year  I  came  here,  the  stages 
were  coming  from  Green  River  City  and  had 
been  so  doing  for  several  years,  furnishing 
mail  and  passenger  service  for  South  Pass, 
Atlantic  City  and  Miners  Delight  and  Camp 
Stambaugh  and  later  on  Lander.  I  think  this 
line  was  owned  by  Ben  Holliday. 

I  hope  to  be  able  some  day  to  write  a 
little  of  the  early  history  of  this  section  as  I 
know   it  from   1873   to   the   present   time.      If 


14 


these  are  errors  I  speak  of,  and  I  think  they 
are,  they  should  be  corrected,  as  I  think  his- 
tory should  be  recorded  as  perfect  as  possi- 
ble. Anything  I  can  do  to  help  it  along  shall 
be  very  glad  to  do  it. 

Very  sincerely  yours, 

R.  H.  HALL. 


COUTANT  NOTES 

(1886) 

There  is  some  uncertainty  about  the  erec- 
tion of  the  first  building  in  Cheyenne  but 
while  several  small  shanties  and  portable 
buildings  were  put  up  among  the  great  field 
of  tents  and  wagons  which  then  dotted  the 
shores  of  Crow  creek,  the  first  substantial 
wooden  building,  erected  on  the  present  site 
of  the  flourishing  city  of  Cheyenne,  was  built 
by  Judge  J.  R.  Whitehead  and  its  erection 
was  commenced  on  July  1st,  1867.  This 
building,  the  material  of  which  had  to  be  cut 
and  hauled  from  the  foothills  "twenty  miles 
away"  at  great  expense,  is  still  standing  in  an 
excellent  state  of  preservation  on  Eddy  street 
in  Cheyenne. 

Across  the  street  and  where  Ellis's  estab- 
lishment now  stands  Judge  Whitehead  at  this 
time  had  a  tent  pitched  which  served  as  a 
temporary  home  and  a  law  office  as  well. 
Into  this  tent  on  the  second  day  after  the 
erection  of  the  building  had  been  commenced 
walked  a  tall  pale  faced  young  man  who  in- 
quired for  Judge  Whitehead.  The  Judge  was 
there  and  responded  for  himself  when  the 
young  man  who  had  walked  nearly  all  the 
way  from  Denver  handed  him  a  letter.  The 
letter  was  from  an  old  friend  of  Judge  White- 
head's in  Denver,  introducing  W.  W.  Corlett, 
and  suggesting  that  it  might  be  a  good  plan 
to  form  a  law  partnership  with  him.  "Well," 
said  Judge  Whitehead,  "I  am  very  busy  just 
now  with  other  business  and  if  you  have  a 
mind  to  try  your  hand  with  me  in  the  law 
business  you  can  do  so.  This  is  my  office 
and  here  are  my  books  and  papers.  Pitch 
in  for  everything  you  see  in  sight."  While 
the  Judge  was  speaking  a  party  came  in  who 
wanted  some  kind  of  a  paper  drawn.  Cor- 
lett seated  himself  at  the  only  table  in  the 
tent  and  proceeded  to  "pitch  in."  The  paper 
was  drawn  up  in  fine  form  for  which  the 
young  lawyer  received  two  five  dollar  green- 
backs, one  of  which  he  handed  to  Judge 
Whitehead,  keeping  the  other  himself.  The 
law  partnership  and  firm  of  Corlett  &  White- 
head, which  lasted  for  some  years,  was  form- 
ed then  and  there.  As  soon  as  the  survey 
of  the  town  site  was  completed  and  even  be- 
fore the  sale  of  town  lots  was  begun,  some 
of  them  bringing  fabulous  prices,  the  erection 
of  many  other  buildings,  principally  along 
what  is  now  Sixteenth,  Seventeenth,  Eddy, 
Thomes  and  O'Neil  streets,  was  at  once  be- 
gun and  in  a  very  few  days  after  the  com- 
pletion of  the  survey  (July  19th)  the  embryo 
city  began  to  acquire  quite  a  substantial  ap- 
pearance. All  kinds  of  business  establish- 
ments, believed  to  be  three  and  four  hundred 
in  all,  were  opened,  and  among  them  several 
gambling  houses  and  as  many  as  sixty  sa- 
loons. Boarding  houses  and  small  hotels  also 
began  to  spring  up,  and  among  the  latter  the 
"Dodge    House,"   near   the   corner   of    O'Neil 


and  Eighteenth  streets,  which  is  still  standing 
and  being  used  as  a  steam  laundry.  The 
population  of  the  city,  which  had  been  of- 
ficially christened  "Cheyenne,"  began  to  be 
estimated  by  the  thousands  long  before  the 
season  was  over,  and  it  was  made  up  of  men, 
women  and  children  from  nearly  every 
country  and  clime  on  the  face  of  the  globe. 
This  population  was  composed  of  three  ele- 
ments, the  active  respectable  and  energetic 
business  men,  the  transient  and  the  uncer- 
tain element,  which  contained  many  bad  char- 
acters of  both  sexes.  While  it  has  many 
times  been  said  and  no  doubt  believed,  to 
the  contrary  there  never  was  a  time  in  the 
history  of  the  early  days  of  the  Magic  City 
of  the  Plains  when  the  respectable  element 
of  its  people  did  not  outnumber  all  other 
classes  nearlv  two  to  one. 


December,  1877,  Air.  C.  W.  Bramlee 
bought  568  sheep  at  a  ranch  twenty-three 
miles  from  Laramie  City,  and  went  to  Lara- 
mie to  make  some  arrangements  connected 
with  the  purchase.  Next  day,  Sunday,  De- 
cember 30th,  Mr.  Bramlee  returned  to  the 
ranch  for  them,  and  found  that  a  mountain 
lion  had  got  into  the  pen  and  killed  54  of 
the  sheep  and  six  were  wounded.  That  night 
a  beaver  trap  was  set  at  the  corrals  and  the 
mountain  lion  put  his  foot  into  the  trap,  but 
the  trap  was  not  sufficiently  fastened  to  hold 
the  lion,  so  the  lion  got  away  from  the  cor- 
ral, and  took  the  trap  with  him.  Messrs. 
Daugherty  and  Clugstone  started  on  the  trail 
of  the  mountain  lion  and  overtook  the  lion 
some  two  miles  away.  Mr.  Daugherty  fired 
at  the  lion,  and  if  it  had  not  been  for  a  dog 
with  the  party  he  would  undoubtedly  have 
been  killed,  as  the  lion  made  a  leap  for  him, 
but  was  foiled  by  the  dog,  giving  Mr.  Daugh- 
erty an  opportunity  of  firing  two  more  shots, 
which  proved  effectual  and  gave  the  party 
the  opportunity  of  killing  the  lion,  which 
proved  to  be  very  large — seven  feet  and  three 
inches  in  length,  and  weighing  about  200 
pounds. — "American  Field"  of  1881. 


NOTES 

(Historian) 
District  number  three  reports  the  perman- 
ent organization  of  a  local  Historical  So- 
ciety, with  the  following  officers:  Repre- 
sentative, P.  W.  Jenkins,  Cora,  President; 
Mr.  Al  Osterhaut,  Big  Piney,  Vice  President-. 
Mrs.  Frances  Clark,  Cora,  Secretary;  Mrs. 
Vigo  Miller,  Daniel;  Mr.  John  Budd,  Big 
Piney;  Mr.  E.  V.  Cockins,  Pinedale;  Mr.  B. 
N.  Tibbies,  Boulder,  together  with  the  elec- 
tive officers  make  up  the  Advisory  Board. 
Mr.  P.  W.  Jenkins  is  a  member  of  the  State 
Advisory  Board  from  this  district. 

Mr.  R.  D.  Hawley,  Advisory  Board  mem- 
ber from  District  number  six,  and  Miss  Mar- 
gery Ross,  member  for  District  number  five, 
report  that  Historical  records  are  being  col- 
lected in  their  districts.  Mr.  E.  H.  Fourt 
is  organizing  Societies  in  District  number 
eight. 

Mr.  MoekLr  of  Casper  has  recently  pub- 
lished his  Htstorv  of  Natrona  County.     This 


15 


is  the  first  of  the  County  Histories  to  appear 
and  is  a  valuable  addition  to  any  library. 
Mrs.  Charles  Stone  has  her  History  of  Uinta 
County   nearly  completed. 

Mr.  E.  T.  Payton,  well  known  in  newspa- 
per circles  in  Wyoming,  has  issued  Nos.  1 
and  2  of  his  "Mad  Men"  series  of  booklets. 
No.    1   has  gone  into  the  second  edition. 

Philip  Ashton  Rollins  is  a  native  of  New 
Hampshire  but  spent  much  of  his  early  life 
in  the  west  and  rode  the  range  in  Wyoming. 
Alter  graduating  from  Pinceton  he  became 
a  corporation  lawyer,  in  which  profession  he 
continued  until  the  breaking  out  of  the  World 
War.  After  his  return  from  overseas  he 
abandoned  law  and  now  devotes  his  entire 
time  to  writing  western  history.  He  is  a 
contributor  to  the  Saturday  Evening  Post 
and  is  the  author  of  "The  Cowboy,"  which 
was  published  this  year. 

Arthur  H.  Clark  and  Company  has  just  is- 
sued "The  Journal  of  John  Work."  The 
Journal  is  a  history  of  the  great  fur  trading 
industry  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's 
activities  in  the  Snake  River  district.  The 
Journal  gives  the  record  of  Work's  hunting, 
trading  and  exploring  expeditions  in  those 
regions  of  which  Montana  and  Idaho  now 
form  a  part.  There  are  several  geographical 
illustrations  and  a  map  of  John  Work's 
route.  The  book  has  a  complete  index  and 
many  foot  notes.  The  edition  is  limited  to 
one  thousand  copies  and  the  type  distributed 
and  there  will  be  no  reprints.  Price  $6.00. 
The  State  Historical  Department  has  pur- 
chased one  copy. 

Extract  of  a  letter  written  to  the  State 
Historical  Department: 

I  was  born  in  Gloversville,  Fulton  county, 
New  York,  around  1878,  and  still  have  friends 
and  relatives  in  that  vicinity,  where  I  some- 
times visit.  Lived  also  in  Massachusetts, 
my  father's  native  state.  In  my  twenties  I 
started  roving  without  a  fixed  purpose  except 
to  gain  a  varied  experience,  and  so  I  traveled 
from  Canada  to  the  Gulf  and  from  coast  to 
coast  and  at  last  came  to  Wyoming  in  the 
"Tenderfoot  Rush"  in  1906  for  the  purpose 
nf  homesteading  some  of  the  well  known 
"free  land"  that  had  been  opened  for  entry 
on  the  Wind  River  reservation  in  Fremont 
county.  I  proved  up  on  my  land  in  1908 
by  commuting  and  soon  after  came  to  Casper, 
where  I  still  reside.  It  is  clear  that  I  have 
no  model  successful  life  to  boast  of,  and  am 
by  nature  and  instinct  an  humble  and  ob- 
scure citizen  without  political  affiliations  or 
lodge  degrees.  I  married  in  recent  years  the 
sweetheart  of  my  childhood,  also  from  Fulton 
county,  New  York,  and  we  are  very  happy, 
strange  to  say!  Have  been  a  man  of  many 
and  varied  occupations,  the  present  one  being 
correspondent  and  general  utility  man  in  the 
office  of  the  Inland  Oil  Index. 

Your*   very  truly, 

ROY    CHURCHILL    SMITH. 


WYOMING   DAYS 
By  ROY  C.  SMITH 
O  sing  us  a  song  of  the  wilds  of  Wyoming, 
A  song  of  the  Plains  and  the  rolling  brown 
hills. 
Not    boastful,    but    playful,    that    sets    Fancy 
roaming 
To    the    sunny    green     slopes    where    the 
meadow  lark  trills. 

The  great  silent  spaces  where  cattle  are  graz- 
ing. 
Remote     from    mankind     in     this     altitude 
high ; 
The  shadowy  dusk,  with  the  red  sunset  blaz- 
ing 
From  behind  the  bald  peaks  sharp  against 
the  clear  sky. 

There's  a  sod  covered  shack  on  the  old  Reser- 
vation, 
A    corral    of   pine    poles   by    the    side   of    a 
stream, 
And  here,  far  removed  from  all  civilization 
Are  the  cow  ponies  trained  by  the  cow  boy, 
supreme. 

There    are    ranches    and    farms  —  there    are 
mines  in  Wyoming; 
There  are  hamlets  remote  from  which  news 
never  comes. 
There  are   forests   untouched   where   the  big 
game   is   roaming, 
Where    the    trout    leap    the    falls    and    the 
wood  partridge  drums. 

Our      progress     is     marked      by      wonderful 
changes 
In  our  cities  and  towns  since  the  country 
was  young, 
But    this    song   is   a   song   of   the   wide   open 
ranges 
Where  the  live  stock  is  grazing  the  brown 

hills  among. 
Casper,  Wyo.,  1922. 


MY  ASSOCIATION  WITH  WYOMING 
By   FRANK  S.   LUSK 

In  1877  I  was  wintering  in  Denver  instead 
of  on  the  ranch,  when  Henry  Stratton,  son. 
of  my  father's  partner  in  the  business  college 
firm  of  Bryant,  Lusk  and  Stratton  died  near 
Fort  Collins.  His  mother  in  New  York 
wired  me  asking  if  I  would  bring  his  body 
East.  He  had  spent  a  good  deal  of  time  in 
and  about  Cheyenne  and  was  pretty  well 
known  to  a  good  many  of  the  people  there, 
so  I  went  via  Cheyenne,  where  I  had  pre- 
viously wired  the  Converse  &  Warren  Com- 
pany as  it  was  then,  to  meet  me,  telling  them 
my  mission.  One  of  the  pleasantest,  most 
energetic  and  efficient  men  I  ever  met  was 
at  the  station.  He  proved  to  be  F.  E.  War- 
ren, with  whom  I  have  maintained  a  friend- 
ship ever  since.  There  were  also  several 
other  of  Henry  Stratton's  friends  and  every 
one  was  so  nice  that  I  was  very  much  im- 
pressed with  the  class  of  people  then  in  the 
Territory. 

\  was  at  that  time  in  the  cattle  business 
in    Colorado,   east   of   Greeley.      In    1879,   we 


16 


thought  we  were  being  crowded  and  deter- 
mined to  move.  My  partners  were  favorable 
to  moving  into  eastern  Colorado,  close  to 
the  Nebraska  line,  but  I  remembered  that 
the  people  I  had  met  earlier  in  Wyoming 
and  those  I  had  subsequently  met,  were  a 
tine  class  of  people  and  I  decided  that  we 
would  go  to  Wyoming.  We  did  not  really 
move  our  headquarters  until  1880,  although 
cattle  we  were  interested  in  and  acquired 
wholly  at  a  later  date  were  moved  into  the 
Hat  Creek  Basin  Country  in  1879.  We  lo- 
cated our  home  ranch  on  Running  Water, 
about  15  miles  east  of  where  Lusk  is  now 
situated.  The  station,  "Node  Ranch"  was 
named  after  our  brand  and  that  ranch.  In 
1882,  I  acquired  from  a  man  named  Newton 
and  George  Wilson,  some  land  just  south  of 
where  Lusk  is  now  located  and  at  the  cross- 
ing of  Running  Water  by  the  Black  Hill's 
Stage  Road  and  a  year  later  I  established 
a  horse  ranch  where  the  present  town  of 
Lusk  is  located.  The  post  office,  Lusk,  was 
established,  1  think  in  1882,  as  a  star  route 
Post  Office  on  the  mail  route  from  Chey- 
enne to  the  Black  Hills.  It  was  established 
at  the  instance  and  on  the  recommendation 
of  Luke  Voorhees,  who  attended  to  all  the 
details  and  who  named  the   Post   Office. 

The  cattle  that  belonged  to  the  Company 
that  I  was  operating,  ran  almost  entirely  over 
in  the  Hat  Creek  Basin,  with  a  few  on  Run- 
ning Water,  now  called  Niobrara  River. 
Prior  to  1880,  we  had  either  purchased  small 
bunches  of  cattle  from  neighbors  or  brought 
cattle  up  from  Texas.  The  winter  of  1880 
was  very  disastrous  to  cattle  men  and  par- 
ticularly hard  on  Texas  cattle,  so  we  decided 
to  buy  western  cattle.  I  spent  a  good  deal 
of  time  in  the  winter  of  1880  and  1881  in 
Nevada  and  in  various  western  localities. 

In  1881,  E.  WT.  Madison  told  me  he  thought 
the  northwestern  country  was  a  good  place 
to  buy  cattle,  and  went  up  there.  He  con- 
tracted a  good  many  cattle  in  southern  Mon- 
tana, just  west  of  the  Yellowstone  Park,  for 
delivery  in  1882.  I  came  up  in  the  spring 
of  1882  and  received  the  cattle  with  him  and 
we  attempted  to  drive  the  cattle  across  the 
Yellowstone  Park  on  some  old  Government 
roads  that  were  said  to  have  existed.  We 
had  located  a  ranch  the  fall  before  on  Gray 
Bull,  a  man  named  Billy  Keating  who  was 
well  known  in  Wyoming,  having  attended 
to  the  matter  for  us  and  these  cattle  were  in- 
tended to  be  the  start  of  a  herd  in  that  lo- 
cality. When  I  went  up  in  the  summer  of 
1882  to  look  the  Gray  Bull  country  over, 
I  did  not  like  it  and  later  purchasers  for  the 
"she"  stock  and  the  ranch  appeared  in  the 
persons  of  Dick  Ashworth  an4  Alex  Johnson, 
who  lived  in  the  country  for  quite  a  long 
while.  The  steers  we  drove  down  to  the 
Hat  Creek  Basin  and  after  that  we  confined 
our  cattle  operations  in  Wyoming  to  the 
country   around  the   Hat   Creek   Basin. 

The"  winters  of  '8S-'86  and  "86-'87  were 
most  disastrous.  A  good  many  people  who 
had  never  had  any  experience  in  cattle, 
thought  all  they  had  to  do  was  to  buy  the 
cattle  and  turn  them  loose  and  when  they 
got  fat,  ship  them  and  pull  off  a  big  profit. 
Generally,    they    had    no    conception    of    how 


many  cattle  could  survive  and  prosper  in  any 
section.  In  the  fall  of  1885,  I  recall  that 
one  man,  in  spite  of  protests  of  everybody 
who  was  running  cattle  in  that  section,  turn- 
ed about  8900  head  of  big  Texas  steers  loose, 
right  on  top  of  us.  He  only  gathered  about 
1/00  of  these  steers,  but  it  increased  the 
losses  of  everybody  who  had  cattle  on  the 
same   range,   enormously. 

Our  neighbors  in  the  Hat  Creek  Basin 
were  the  Emmons  &  Brewster  Company,  the 
Tom  Swan  Company,  the  Converse  "O.  W." 
Company,  T.  B.  Hord,  J.  Howard  Ford,  C. 
A.  Guernsey,  and  farther  up,  on  the  Chey- 
enne River,  the  Fiddle  back  outfit  of  E.  Til- 
lottson  and  Thomas  &  Page  s  outfit.  Still 
beyond  them  were  the  Sturgis  &  Lane  and 
Sturgis  and  Goodell  outfits,  and  over  in  Da- 
kota, N.  R.  Davis  and  the  Oelrichs'  Brothers 
ran  their  cattle. 

South  of  us  were  Luke  Voorhees,  Van 
Tassell,  Billy  Irvine,  Keeline  Brothers,  Ad- 
ams &  Glover  &  Pratt  &  Ferris.  A  good 
many  of  these  people  have  "gone  ahead," 
but  they  were  surely  a  "royal  crowd"  in  their 
day. 

Our  cattle  drifted  to  the  south  and  east 
in  the  winter  and  our  big  roundups  were 
down  Rawhide  to  the  North  Platte  River  and 
m  the  hills  north  of  the  Platte. 

We  hunted  the  country  as  far  down  the 
Platte  as  the  Sidney  Bridge  and  there  wasn't 
a  settler  anywhere  in  that  whole  country  at 
the  time,  and  as  far  up  the  Platte  as  the 
Fetterman  Bridge. 

We  also  hunted  the  "south  side,"  but  sel- 
dom found  any  cattle  there  and  w'hat  were 
found  there  were  easily  traced,  as  having 
Deen  crossed  with  cattle  belonging  on  that 
s»de  when  they  were  taken  across  and  a  few 
strays  that  had  been  overlooked.  There  was 
little  stealing  or  rustling  in  our  country  in 
ihose  days.  Rustling  activities  were  con- 
fined almost  wholly  to  getting  the  "maver- 
icks" which  were  calves  of  the  previous  year 
that  were  unbranded,  generally  from  being 
overlooked  when  rounding  up. 

There  were  very  few,  almost  none  in  fact, 
small  cattle  owners,  so  the  mavericks  were 
supposed  to  be  owned  by  the  outfit  on  whose 
range  they  were  found  and  this  arrangement 
was  usually  adhered  to. 

-  In  1886,  the  Chicago  &  Northwestern  road 
which  owned  the  Fremont,  Elkhorn  and  Mis- 
souri Valley  Railway,  decided  to  extend  into 
Wyoming  for  a  coal  supply.  They  had  built 
into  Chadron  in  1885,  headed  for  the  Black 
Hills,  northwest  from  Chadron.  The  laws 
at  that  time  did  not  permit  a  railway  owner- 
ship or  construction  by  a  Corporation  not 
organized  in  the  Territory,  so  the  Wyoniing 
Central  Railway  was  organized,  in  which  I 
was  one  of  the  directors.  Also,  the  Shawnee 
Coal  Company  was  organized,  which  was 
owned  by  some  of  the  principal  owners  of 
:he  Chicago  &  Northwestern  Railway.  My 
recollection  is  that  the  other  directors,  except- 
ing myself,  of  the  Shawnee  Coal  Company, 
were  the  owners  of  about  seventeen  millions 
out  of  the  fifty  millions  which  was  then  the 
capital  of  the  Chicago  &  Northwestern  Road 
I  was  Vice-President  and  General  Manage: 
of  the  Coal  Company,  which  later  proved  tc 


17 


e  an  unsatisfactory  investment  and  was 
bandoned. 

At  the  time  of  the  incorporation  of  the 
Vyoming  Central  Railway,  Lusk  was  the 
nly  Post  office  on  the  projected  line  in  the 
"erritory  and  was  named  as  the  headquar- 
2rs  of  the  Railway. 

I  was  also  interested  in  town  sites  and  af- 
er  the  construction  of  the  Wyoming  Cen- 
ral  had  been  definitely  determined  upon,  the 
reality  of  the  terminus  was  considered  very 
arefully.  The  Railway  Company  had  not 
btained  a  right-of-way  across  the  Fort  Fet- 
;rman  Reservation,  so  the  site  of  the  town 
*as  necessarily  restricted  to  the  most  con- 
enient  point  to  the  east  of  the  Fetterman 
Leservation.  A  good  many  people  were  in- 
vested in  watching  every  move  that  was 
lade  and  it  was  necessary  to  exercise  con- 
iderable  secrecy  in  connection  with  the  lo- 
ating  of  the  town  site.     In  January  of  1887, 

rode  horseback  from  the  ranch  at  Lusk  and 
)oked  over  the  lay  of  the  land.  It  was  a 
ide  of  about  fifty  miles  and  I  had  to  stay 
p  in  that  country  for  a  day  or  two.  I  un- 
ertook  to  ride  back  from  Fort  Fetterman, 
'here  I  was  put  up  for  the  night,  but  was 
o  delayed  that  it  was  nearly  dark  by  the 
roe  I  got  through  at  what  is  now  Douglas. 

picketed  my  horse,  sat  down  in  a  little 
ulch,  under  the  only  Cottonwood  Tree 
round  there,  built  me  a  fire  and  camped 
lere  all  night,  riding  back  to  Lusk  the  next 
ay.  There  were  no  ranches  at  all,  or  places 
i  stop,  between  Fetterman  and  Lusk  at  that 
me. 

After  the  location  of  the  town  site  where 
)ouglas  is  now,  had  been  determined  upon, 
-e  discovered  that  certain  speculators  had 
ut  fictitious  entries  on  some  of  the  land  that 

was  proposed  to  include  in  the  town  site, 
'he  town  site  was  acquired  by  using  Gov- 
rnment      script.      This      was      easily      done, 

hen  the  people  who  were  responsible  for 
lem  were  cornered  and  forced  to  admit  that 
le  entries  were  fictitious.  The  Company 
i>ld  me  that  I  might  file  on  the  adjoining 
feds  after  the  site  had  been  selected  and 
led    upon,    so    when    everything   was   ready, 

went    into    the    land    office    at    Cheyenne, 

here  E.  W.  Mann  was  the  officer  in  charge, 
nd  presented  the  filing  for  the  Townsite 
pmpany,  and  immediately  after  it  was  re- 
eived  and  registered,  I  filed  a  desert  claim 
ar  myself  on  560  acres,  adjoining  the  town 
|  two  sides.  The  bridge  across  the  North 
'latte  River  rests  at  each  end  upon  the  lands 
pon  which  I  filed.  This  land  was  almost 
nmediately  contested  upon  the  ground  of 
eing  coal  land  and  I  took  Charles  A.  Guern- 
ey  into  partnership  with  me  in  this  land. 
Ve  spent  a  good  deal  of  money  in  litigation, 
ixes,  expenses  and  improvements  and  I 
nally  was  very  glad  to  give  my  entire  in- 
srest  in  this  property  to  the  First  National 
tank  of  Douglas  to  get  off  of  notes  which 

had  endorsed  to  obtain  money  to  make  the 
arious  improvements  on  this  land.  I  never 
ot  a  dollar  out  of  it  and  spent  a  good  many 
housands  of  dollars,  in  addition  to  what  was 
orrowed. 

As  Vice-President  of  the  Shawnee  Coal 
'onipany,   T  made  a  great  many  trips  to  in- 


vestigate alleged  deposits  of  "Rock  Springs 
Coal."  We  spent  a  good  deal  of  money  try- 
ing to  prove  and  test  various  deposits  and 
learned  to  our  cost  and  sorrow  that  there 
is  no  "Rock  Springs  Coal"  very  far  north 
of  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad. 

A  little  later,  after  the  right-of-way  across 
the  Fort  Fetterman  Reservation  had  been 
granted,  the  Railway  Company  decided  to 
complete  the  line  which  had  been  graded 
from  the  west  side  of  the  Fetterman  Reser- 
vation, quite  a  distance  up  the  North  Platte 
River,  in  order  to  get  the  large  stock  ship- 
ments. Here,  again,  the  question  of  a  suit- 
able townsite  became  important.  The  site 
which  I  favored  was  where  Strouds  now  is, 
but  Mr.  Hughitt  said  that  as  long  as  the 
road  was  being  built  to  get  the  cattle  busi- 
ness, he  thought  the  terminus  should  be  on 
the  north  side  of  the  river.  He  was  the  of- 
ficial who  decided  all  such  matters.  An  in- 
vestigation at  the  land  office  and  on  the 
ground,  showed  that  the  only  two  quarter 
sections  in  that  country,  to  which  there  was 
a  title,  were  owned  by  the  "C  Y"  Cattle 
Company  or  J.  M.  Carey  &  Brother.  They 
were  a  little  way  from  the  river,  but  fairly 
good,  level  land,  so  the  Townsite  Company 
purchased  these  two  quarter  sections  and 
laid  out  the  townsite  of  Casper.  It  was  a 
bleak  place,  but  a  good  point  from  which  to 
ship  cattle. 

In  the  late  '80-s  after  two  disastrous  win- 
ters, my  associates  in  the  cattle  business  de- 
cided we  would  move  our  cattle  to  a  locality 
where  the  winters  were  less  severe  and  the 
"she"  cattle  were  gradually  moved  down  to 
New  Mexico,  the  steers  being  shipped  as  they 
got  fat.  I  did  not  approve  of  the  move  and 
having  other  interests,  I  remained  in  Wyo- 
ming. 

However,  conditions  were  pretty  difficult 
to  combat  and  through  my  railway  friends, 
I  went  into  the  railway  contracting  business, 
going,  of  course,  temporarily  to  whatever 
place  the  railway  construction  was  going  on. 
This  took  me  in  the  East  to  Illinois,  Indiana, 
Iowa,  Wisconsin  and  in  the  West  into  Col- 
orado, Arizona',  New  Mexico,  Utah,  Califor- 
nia, Nevada,  South  Dakota  and  Montana.  I 
continued,  however,  to  keep  a  small  interest 
in  cattle  and  ranches  in  Wyoming,  but  after 
coming  to  Montana,  in  1907,  to  do  construc- 
tion work  on  the  Northern  Pacific  and  Chi- 
cago, Milwaukee  &  St.  Paul  lines  and  find- 
ing climate  and  many  other  conditions  favor- 
able, during  the  three  years  I  was  at  work- 
on  this  construction,  I  decided  to  remain  in 
Montana  permanently  and  purchased  control 
of  the  First  National  Bank,  in  Missoula, 
Montana,  it  being  the  oldest  National  Bank- 
in  the  state  and  one  of  the  largest  banks  of 
the  State  and  was  President  of  it  for  ten 
years.  I  gradually  disposed  of  most  of  my 
interests  in  Wyoming,  but  still  retained  the 
feeling  that  Wyoming,  where  I  resided  for 
thirtv  vears,  was  reallv  mv  home   State. 

February  4th,  1924. 


REMINISCENCES  OF 

HARRIET  ANN  DURBIN 
I    was   born   in    Preble   County,   Ohio,   No- 
vember  16,   1853.      Middleton,   Ohio,  was  my 


18 


home  until  I  came  to  Cheyenne  in  1871.  In 
the  fall  of  1871  my  brother,  E.  P.  Johnson, 
who  was  then  making  his  home  in  Cheyenne, 
returned  home  on  a  visit,  and  as  I  had  not 
been  in  very  good  health  he  persuaded  moth- 
er and  father  to  let  me  return  to  Cheyenne 
with  him,  as  he  thought  the  change  in  cli- 
mate would  benefit  me.  We  were  delayed 
a  few  days  in  starting  our  journey  on  ac- 
count of  the  Chicago  fire,  but  on  the  19th 
day  of  October,  1871,  I  landed  in  Cheyenne 
in  company  with  my  brother,  his  wife,  and 
Mrs.  Josiah  Strong,  who  was  the  wife  of  the 
first  pastor  of  the  Congregational  Church. 
We  were  met  at  the  train  by  Mr.  S.  A. 
Bristol  and  Rev.  Strong.  After  leaving  Chi- 
cago, we  ferried  across  the  Missouri  River 
and  then  continued  our  journey  on  to  Chey- 
enne by  train.  The  railroad  fare  from  Cin- 
cinnati to  Cheyenne  was  about  $80.00  at  that 
time. 

At  the  time  of  our  arrival  in  Cheyenne  the 
town  was  experiencing  one  of  the  usual  de- 
pressions, known  to  new  towns  in  those  days, 
and  my  brother's  wife  said  to  him,  "Shall  I 
unpack  our  trucks  here?"  and  he  replied  that 
"Cheyenne  would  always  be  a  town,  and  we 
would  stay."  I  lived  with  my  brother  and 
his  wife  in  a  little  house  on  West  19th  Street, 
between  Eddy  and  Thomes,  during  my  first 
year  in  Cheyenne.  During  that  year  I  sang 
as  soprano  in  the  Congregational  choir,  the 
other  members  being  I.  C.  Whipple,  tenor, 
Mrs.  Josiah  Strong,  alto,  and  S.  A.  Bristol, 
bass,  with  Minnie  Slaughter,  daughter  of 
Judge  Slaughter,  as  organist. 

The  first  school  house  in  Cheyenne  was 
erected  on  the  ground  just  south  of  the  pres- 
ent City  and  County  Building,  and  Stephen 
Scriber  was  the  first  teacher.  When  I  came 
to  Cheyenne  Miss  Elizabeth  Snow,  (Mrs. 
Hawes)  and  C.  L.  Morgan  were  teaching  in 
the  little  brick  school  house,  but  the  east 
four  rooms  of  the  present  Central  School 
building  were   in  the   course  of  erection. 

The  post  office  was  in  a  frame  building  on 
the  corner  of  17th  and  what  is  now  Carey 
Ave.,  and  the  Masonic  Lodge,  held  its  meet- 
ings in  the  room  over  the  post  office. 

The  first  two  story  brick  house  was  built 
on  the  southeast  corner  of  16th  and  Ferguson 
Sts.,  (now  Carey  Ave.,)  and  Posey  S.  Wilson 
had  a  bank  just  east  of  that  building.  The 
First  National  Bank  was  on  the  northeast 
corner  of  16th  and  Eddy  Sts.,  (now  Pioneer 
Ave.).  Adams  and  Glover  built  the  building 
now  standing  on  the  southeast  corner  of 
Pioneer  and  16th,  and  used  it  as  a  drug  store. 
Abe  Underwood  and  A.  G.  McGregor  built 
the  one  story  building  on  the  northwest  cor- 
ner of  17th  and  Pioneer,  and  ran  a  bakery 
and  grocery  there. 

The  houses  built  in  the  early  days  were 
apparently  erected  any  place,  without  regard 
to  streets,  etc.,  and  very  few  had  any  chim- 
neys. It  was  thought  that  it  was  so  windy 
that  chimneys  would  not  stand,  so  most 
people  placed  a  piece  of  tin  in  the  place  of 
one  of  their  window  panes,  and  put  a  stove 
pipe  through  the  window. 

I  was  married  on  November  12,  1872,  to. 
Thomas  F.  Durbin,  who  had  a  meat  market 
in   Cheyenne,  and  also  had  a  contract  to  de- 


liver meat  to  Ft.  Russell.  A  few  years  later 
he  entered  the  cattle  business. 

We  had  four  sons,  but  only  one  lived  to 
maturity.  Edward  graduated  from  the  Chey- 
enne High  School  in  1904,  and  in  1908  he 
graduated  from  the  Ohio  Wesleyan  College. 
He  is  now  making  his  home  in  Omaha. 

We  have  lived  in  our  present  home  on  the 
corner  of  20th  and  Ferguson  Sts.,  (now  Carey 
Ave.)  for  over  forty  years,  having  moved 
here  after  residing  for  eight  years  in  the 
little  home  we  bought  on  19th  and  Thomes, 
when  we  were  married. 

I  consider  Zane  Gray's  "Description  of  the 
Building  of  the  Union  Pacific"  very  good, 
and  the  early  history  of  Cheyenne  given 
therein  as   quite  accurate. 

W.  W.  Corlett  and  E.  P.  Johnson,  my 
brother,  came  out  from  Yale,  as  young  law- 
yers, in  1867  as  far  as  Omaha.  From  Omaha 
they  came  on  as  far  as  Denver  with  a  mili- 
tary guard,  and  from  there  came  up  to  Chey- 
enne bv  ox  train.  The  first  tent  was  pitched 
in  Cheyenne  in  July,  1867.  Both  Mr.  Corlett 
and  my  brother  had  to  sleep  in  dug  outs  and 
packing  boxes  when  they  first  reached  Chey- 
enne, as  there  were  no  houses  at  that  time. 

Cheyenne  began  on  the  west  side  of  Crow 
Creek,  but  in  a  very  short  time  the  residences 
were  built  on  the  bench  on  the  east  side  of 
the  creek.  The  Dyer  Hotel  was  one  of  the 
first  fine  buildings.  Eddy  Street,  now  Pio- 
neer Avenue,  was  the  principal  street  in  Chey- 
enne in  the  early  days. 

The  Indians  made  their  last  raid  close  to 
Chevenne,  in  the  vicinitv  of  the  present  Poor 
Farm,  in  1870. 

General  Fremont  was  at  the  head  of  the 
military  guard  which  went  from  Omaha  to 
Denver  in  1867.  The  first  tents  were  pitched 
in   Cheyenne  on  July  27,  1867. 

When  I  first  came  to  Cheyenne  we  used 
j  hanging  oil  lamps,  but  as  Cheyenne  was  the 
first  city  or  town  to  have  electric  lights,  it 
wa«  not  long  before  the  light  plant  was 
established.  Senator  Warren,  Mr.  Roberts 
and  Mr.  Church  were  among  the  organizers 
of  the  light  plant.  Mr.  Secrest  was  one  of 
the  early  employees  of  the  light  plant,  and 
had  a  verv  good  patent  for  some  electrical 
devices.  He  now  has  a  very  good  business 
handling  lieht   fixtures  in   Denver. 

W.  R.  Stebbens  and  Mr.  Post  were  the 
firct  bankers  in  Cheyenne. 

Air.  Stebbens  took  the  stage  and  went  into 
Deadwood  from  Cheyenne  about  a  week  be- 
fore I  went  to  Deadwood.  He  announced 
that  within  a  few  days  there  would  be  plenty 
of  currency  there  for  the  starting  of  the  new 
bank. 

The  first  time  I  went  marketing  in  Dead- 
wood  I  took  a  bottle  of  gold  dust,  more  like] 
sand  and  pebbles,  to  pay  for  the  things  i! 
should  purchase.  I  bought  a  beef  steak  and1 
then  had  to  give  the  butcher  my  bottle  of' 
gold  dust,  and  he  would  shake  out  and  weigh1 
enough  of  the  gold  dust  to  pay  for  my  meat. 

After  Mr.  Stebbens  made  the  announce-] 
ment  that  there  would  be  plenty  of  currency 
in  Deadwood  occurred  the  first  stage  rob-' 
bery 

On  the  morning  that  I  was  leaving  on  thel 
stage   for   Deadwood   with   my  baby,   accom-^ 


19 


lanied  by  Mr.  Durbin's  brother  John,  the 
banker  said  to  my  brother-in-law,  "John, 
here  is  a  little  package  that  I  would  like  to 
have  you  take  to  Deadwood  with  you."  That 
day  when  we  got  to  the  first  stage  station 
my  brother-in-law  gave  me  the  money  and 
said  that  it  would  be  safer  with  me  than  with 
him.  The  money  went  out  from  the  bank 
of  Stebbens  and  Post.  Mr.  Stebbens  had 
gone  in  to  Deadwood  about  a  week  before 
to  make  arrangements  for  the  establishment 
of  the  bank.  I  went  to  Deadwood  in  March, 
1877. 

The  Post  and  Stebbens  bank  was  on  the 
southeast  corner  of  17th  and  Ferguson  Sts., 
now  Carey  Avenue. 

The  present  windows  in  the  Durbin  porch 
ire  the  original  windows  which  were  in  the 
Post  and  Stebbens  Bank. 

After  one  of  the  early  fires  B.  L.  Ford,  a 
:olored  hotel  porter,  built  the  first  Inter 
Ocean  Hotel  on  the  corner  of  17th  and  Hill 
Sts.,   now   Capitol  Avenue. 

The  Dodge  House  was  located  on  the  pres- 
ent site  of  the  Sherman  Building  and  was 
•un  by  Mrs.  Cairns. 

Boughton's  Lumber  Yard  was  where  the 
Coliseum   and    Hose   House   is   now. 

I.  W.  French  built  a  ware  house  on  the 
jr-esewt  site  of  the  Van  Tassell  coal  office. 

Thomas  Franklin  Durbin,  my  husband,  was 
)orn  on  March  20,  1847,  in  Aurora,  Indiana, 
rlis  parents  were  John  B.  and  Mary  Jane 
Bailey)   Durbin. 

He  learned  the  printing  trade  when  he  was 
mly  a  small  boy,  as  his  father  and  two  broth- 
ers were  in  the  Civvil  War,  and  he  worked 
I  the  printing  office  at  $1.00  a  week.  He 
ilways  gave  his  mother  ninety  cents  out  of 
lis  weekly  wage,  but  he  also  always  kept 
>ut  ten  cents  as  it  was  his  rule  never  to  spend 
lis  last  cent.  His  clothes  consisted  in  those 
lays  of  jeans  and  muslin  suspenders,  and  he 
vent  bare-footed  except  in  winter. 

He  was  educated  in  the  schools  of  Aurora, 
nd  then  he  went  into  the  printing  office, 
ie  still  has  One  of  the  poems  written  for  the 
arriers,  or  the  printer's  devils,  as  a  New 
fear's  gift. 

For  a  year  he  worked  in  a  grocery  and  dry 
;oods  store,  and  then  he  came  West  in  Aug- 
st,  1869,  making  the  trip  directly  to  Chey- 
nne  as  his  brother  John  was  then  living 
lere.  He  worked  as  a  meat  cutter  for  a 
/hile  and  then  he  and  his  brother  John 
ought  out  the  Amos  Peacock  meat  market, 
/hich  was  located  on  the  corner  of  17th  and 
rerguson  Sts.,  now  Carey  Avenue.  Soon 
fter  this  he  started  to  purchase  cattle  and 
i  1872  he  had  the  contract  to  deliver  meat 
t  Fort  Russell.  In  1874  they  sold  the  mar- 
et  to  Henry  Helpinstein  and  Richard  B. 
)urbin.  After  disposing  of  the  market  they 
rave  their  entire  time  to  cattle  raising  and 
he  sheep  business,  and  it  was  in  the  blizzard 
f  that  winter  that  George  Durbin  had  his 
set  frozen.  They  had  their  first  cattle  out 
y  the  city  water  works.  Then  they  estab- 
fehed  the  J.  H.  D.  Ranch  out  on  Horse 
'reek,  and  afterwards  they  had  the  V.  B. 
tanch  on  Bear  Creek. 

In  1903  Thomas  Durbin  was  clerk  for  the 
>oard    of    Live    Stock    Commissioners,    and 


later  he  was  appointed  Secretary  of  the  Board 
which  position  he  held  for  twelve  years.  He 
retired  at  the  end  of  that  time. 

I  am  of  the  seventh  generation  of  the  de- 
scendants of  John  Alden  and  Priscilla,  his 
wife,  my  parents  being  Thomas  Skeils  John- 
son and  Ann  Parker  Ewer. 

Dictated  by  Mrs.  Durbin,  October  30, 
1920. 


THE  STORY  OF  A  PIONEER 

About  the  year  1850  there  lived  in  a  rural 
community,  of  north-eastern  Texas  a  family 
named  Armstrong.  They  were  well  to  do, 
as  farmers,  enterprising  and  industrious.  The 
fabulous  tales  of  the  golden  West,  of  Califor- 
nia and  Oregon  reached  this  quiet  settlement, 
and  at  once  the  spirit  of  emigration  prevailed 
over  the  wiser  counsels  of  the  older  people, 
and  yet  even  some  of  these  were  caught  in 
the  general  excitement, while  others  too  feeble 
to  undertake  the  long  journey  watched  the 
long  train  of  wagons  depart,  with  regret,  that 
they  were  denied  the  privilege.  Of  the  Arm- 
strong family  were  father,  mother,  several 
boys  and  girls,  of  whom  the  oldest  was  Ma- 
linda  Jane,  a  bright  pretty  girl  of  seventeen. 
What  a  joy  she  was  helping  with  the  packing 
of  clothes  and  necessaries  that  were  allowed 
to  each  wagon.  She  was  the  one  on  whom 
the  mother  depended.  The  wagon  train  of 
seven  or  eight  teams  with  men  on  horse, 
a  cow  or  two  tethered  to  the  wagon,  passed 
safely  over  the  Texas  range  and  somewhere 
struck  what  was  later  called  "The  Cherokee 
Trail."  It  was  the  Jones  route  of  1850,  leav- 
ing the  North  Platte  River,  crossing  the  des- 
ert and  coming  down  to  the  Green  River 
crossing  below  the  outlet  of  Currant  Creek. 
From  the  crossing  they  turned  northward 
reaching  old  Fort  Bridger,  on  Black's  Fork, 
continued  up  the  Bear  River,  stopped  and 
drank  at  the  Bear  Springs,  and  on  to  old 
"Fort  Hall"  on  the  Snake  River.  Here  they 
found  many  wagon  trains  and  had  company. 
At  Fort  Hall  the  trail  to  California  and  that 
of  Oregon  separated  and  our  Texas  friends 
turned  to  the  Californias.  The  land  of  their 
dreams  did  not  fulfill  the  expectations  and 
after  but  one  year's  residence  the  party  de- 
cided to  return  to  Texas.  They  followed  the 
old  trail.  John  Stallcup  drove  a  team  of  two 
wagons.  One  horse  died  and  the}'  put  three 
horses  for  one  wagon.  It  was  called  a  spike. 
This  was  a  hard  journey,  so  hot  and  dusty, 
and  the   Indians  were  a  constant  fear. 

Miles  of  rough  way  over  the  sage  brush, 
fording  streams,  camping  cold  nights  on  the 
desert,  without  a  fire  to  cook  a  scanty  meal. 
Scarcely  daring  to  wander  far  from  camp, 
altho,  deer,  elk  and  buffalo  were  roaming 
the  hills.  At  Fort  Bridger,  Malinda  Jane  was 
taken  ill  of  a  fever.  There  was  little  at  the 
Fort  and  they  traveled  on  to  the  Green  River 
crossing,  then  up  the  Jones  route  to  the 
Hogback  between  Currant  Creek  and  Sage. 
After  crossing  Spring  Creek  they  reached 
the  brow  of  the  hill  that  looks  down  on  Trout 
Gulch,  and  turned  out  to  encamp,  at  a  shady 
spot  not  far  from  water.  Here  Malinda  died 
and  was  laid  by  her  loving  friends  in  a  lonely 
grave.  John  Stallcup  of  Sherman  City,  Texas, 
kept    the   record,    helped    to    carve   her    name 


on  the  stone  slab,  that  has  been  replaced  by 
another,  the  first  having  been  nearly  obliter- 
ated by  time.  The  initials,  or  name,  was  also 
carved  on  a  tree,  at  the  head  of  the  grave. 

The  present  stone  is  exactlv  the  copy  of  the 
first. 

1834-1852 

IN  MEMORY 

of 

MALINDA  J.  ARMSTRONG 

Died  Aug.  15,  1852 

The  old  tree  has  fallen,  but  Mr.  Robert 
Ramsey,  Jr.,  and  brothers,  have  preserved 
the  grave  and  recut  the  stone.  As  of  old  the 
sagebrush  and  the  cedar  cover  the  mountain- 
side, and  the  clear  water  of  Trout  Gulch 
flows  down  to  the  >Sage,  Bluebelle  and  rose, 
and  primrose,  and  lily  love  the  spot,  and 
little  merry  birds  twitter  among  the  branches. 

To  Mr.  'John  ,Stallcup  of  Sherman  City, 
and  his  niece,  Mrs.  Bettie  Fink,  and  Mrs. 
William  Bates,  we  are  indebted  for  this  rec- 
ord. Mr.  Stallcup  has  been  dead  many  years. 
When  he  knew  that  his  niece  was  coming  to 
Wyoming,  he  told  her  the  circumstances,  and 
directed  her  to  the  spot.  The  family  on 
Trout  Gulch  knew  where  it  was. 

The   wagon   train   remained   three   days   on 
the  gulch.     The  mother  was  broken  hearted. 
Received  from 
Mary  A.   Pater  son,   1920. 
Rock  Springs,  Wyoming. 


The  Shoshoni  Indian  name  for  lynx  and 
wildcats  is  Too-coo-bintse,  and  when  a  hunter 
succeeded  in  killing  or  trapping  one  of  them 
he  was  greeted  with  a  great  deal  of  applause. 
A  wildcat  robe  is  a  great  ornament  and  is 
worn  by  the  Indians  when  in  full  dress.  The 
fur  reaches  down  the  leg  of  the  lynx  and  be- 
tween the  toes,  thus  enabling  the  animal  to 
readily  withstand  the  vigorous  winter  wea- 
ther, and  to  roam  about  during  storms,  when 
other  animals  and  birds  are  seeking  shelter 
under  trees  and  bushes  where  he  can  kill 
and  drink  the  blood.  The  lynx  cares  little 
lor  the  flesh  after  he  sucks  the  blood  of  the 
animal. — Colonel  A.  J.  Brackett,  U.   S.  A. 

Thomas  J.  Montgomery,  born  September 
20th,  1850,  at  Brighton,  Illinois,  crossed  the 
plains  with  WTilliam  H.  Loveland  of  Golden, 
Colorado,  in  the  spring  of  1866,  and  clerked 
in  a  store  belonging  to  Loveland.  There  was 
a  telegraph  office  in  the  store  and  young 
Montgomery  learned  the  business  of  an  oper- 
ator. In  the  spring  of  '67  he  went  to  Fort 
Sedgwick  to  work  for  the  Government,  as 
an  operator;  then  went  to  Mud  Springs  and 
took  charge  of  the  office,  remaining  until  the 
office  was  abandoned  and  the  line  changed  to 
Cheyenne  and  Fort  Laramie.  He  then  went 
to  work  under  Superintendent  Cuak  for  the 
Union  Pacific,  in  the  capacity  of  conductor 
and  line  supervisor.  That  fall  the  Company 
put  in  an  office  at  Cheyennec,  on  the  day 
that  the  first  train  arrived.  There  had  been 
a  temporary  office  for  the  construction  de- 
partment, and  after  about  thirty  days  an  of- 
fice was  put  in  at  Granite  Canyon — the  Col- 
orado Junction  office  was  put  in  fifteen  days 
before — from  this  they  followed  the  line  of 
construction  and  put  in  all  the  offices  as  fast 


as  the  road  went  into  operation.  Cyrus  Wrar-| 
ren  was  the  first  yard  master;  Willis  the  first' 
division  superintendent  from  Cheyenne,  easts 
Toney  Sanford,  the  first  train  dispatcher  and| 
circuit  manager;  Montgomery  was  the  firstjj 
operator,  and  Mike  Owens  was  the  police- 
man at  the  depot  in  Cheyenne.  Richard  Par- 
cell  was  the  first  section  foreman  and  laid 
the  first  ties  and  tracks  around  the  round- 
house and  depot.  The  first  road  master  was 
Gus  Egbert,  afterwards  Division  Superin- 
tendent of  the  Colorado  branch  of  the  Union 
Pacific  Road. 

John  C.  Davis,  born  March  14th,  1851,  at 
Tipperary,  Ireland,  and  educated  in  the  south 
of  England,  came  to  the  United  States  in 
June,  1870,  and  located  in  northwestern  Kan- 
sas, remaining  there  until  March,  1870,  when 
he  located  permanently  in  W'yoming  Terri-I 
tory.  He  worked  in  various  places  along  the; 
Union  Pacific  Railroad,  from  Green  River  td 
Laramie.  He  was.  night  telegraph  operator 
and  continued  in  this  until  January,  '76,  when 
he  took  a  six  months'  lay-off  and  went  on  a 
visit  to  Ireland.  He  returned  to  Fort  Steele 
in  August,  '76,-  and  became  night  operator 
there. 

In  the  fall  of  '77  he  went  to  work  for  Trab- 
ing  Brothers  at  Medicine  Bow,  taking  charge 
of  the  store,  and  remained  until  December 
31st,  1878.  He  then  became  junior  member 
of  the  firm  of  Hayes  &  Company,  post  trad- 
ers at  Fort  Steele.  Major  Thornburg  was  in 
command  at  the  Post.  In  September,  1879, 
Davis  went  with  Thornburg  and  was  pres- 
ent at  the  Milk  Creek  fight.  He  was  wound- 
ed on  the  first  day  of  the  fight,  the  bones  inj 
his  left  foot  were  broken.  He  returned  toj 
Fort  Steele,  remained  in  the  government  hos- 
pital three  months,  and  went  back  into  the 
store.  In  August,  1880,  he  formed  a  part4 
nership  with  Mr.  Hayes,  bought  out  Trabing 
Brothers  there,  and  the  store  and  government 
freighting  business  at  Medicine  Bow  and 
Rawlins,  and  became  a  resident  of  Carbon 
County,  moving  the  goods  from  Medicine 
Bow  to  Rawlins.  He  put  in  the  first  West- 
ern Union  office  at  Medicine  Bow  in  the 
store,  and  also  in  Rawlins.  The  J.  W.  Hayes 
&  Company  bank  was  organized,  and  in  1890 
was  consolidated  into  the  First  National 
Bank  of  Rawlins,  with  Davis  as  cashier.  He 
established  a  store  at  Meeker,  Colorado,  in 
1886,  and  organized  a  bank  in  August,  1890; 
located  a  store  at  Craig,  Colorado,  and  es- 
tablished a  bank  there  in  1892.  He  estab- 
lished a  store  at  Rifle,  Colorado,  and  organ- 
ized a  bank  at  that  place  July  1st,  1899.  Hqji 
established  a  store  at  Four  Miles  in  March, 
'91,  one  in  Hayden  in  '96;  organized  the< 
bank  at  Steamboat  Springs,  January  1st,: 
1899,  and  organized  a  store  at  Dixon,  Wyo- 
ming, in  May.  1899.  He  was  elected  Mayor 
of  Rawlins,  18... ;  elected  County  Com- 
missioner in  the  fall  of  '89  and  elected  a  dele- 
gate to  the  Republican  National  Convention 
of  1886,  held  at  St.  Louis.  He  was  married 
January  9th,  1883,  to  Ella  Mary  Castiday, 
the  eldest  daughter  of  David  R.  Castiday, 
and  by  this  union  there  were  five  children, 
three  boys  and  two  girls.  One  of  the  boys 
died  in   infancv.  — Coutant  Notes.     ; 


~Y~ls^Y~d 


HISTORICAL  DEPARTMENT 


QUARTERLY  BULLETIN 


3l.    1 


Cheyenne,  January  15,  1924 


No.  3 


[OGRAPHICAL  SKETCH 

OF  JAMES  BRIDGER 

r  MAJ.  GEN.  GRENVILLE  M.  DODGE 

At  this  late  day  it  is  a  very  difficult  under- 
ling to  attempt  to  write  a  connected  his- 
ry  of  a  man  who  spent  a  long  life  on  the 
ains  and  in  the  mountains,  performing 
eds  and  rendering  services  of  inestimable 
lue  to   this  country,   but   who,  withal,  was 

modest  that  he  has  not  bequeathed  to  his 
scendants  one  written  word  concerning  the 
rring  events  which  filled  his  active  and 
eful  life. 

It  is  both  a  duty  and  pleasure  to  make 
blk^s'uch  information  as  I  possess  and 
ve  been  able  to  gather  concerning  James 
idger,  and  it  is  eminently  proper  and  ap- 
Dpriate  that  this  information  should  be  pub- 
hed  at  the  time  when  his  remains  are  re- 
ived to  the  beautiful  spot  where  they  will 
"ever  rest,  and  a  simple  monument  erected 
it  posterity  may  know  something  of  the 
narkable  man  whose  body  lies  beside  it. 
James  Bridger  was  born  in  Richmond, 
rginia,  March  17,  1804.  He  was  the  son  of 
mes  and  Schloe  Bridger.  The  father  at 
e  time  kept  a  hotel  in  Richmond,  and  also 
d  a  large  farm  in  Virginia.  In  1812  he 
ligranted  to  St.  Louis  and  settled  on  Six 
le  Prairie.  He  was  a  surveyor,  working 
St.  Louis  and  Illinois.  His  business  kept 
n  continually  from  home,  and  when  his 
fe  died  in  1816  he  was  away  from  home 
the  time,  and  three  little  children  were  left 
me.  One,  a  son,  soon  died,  the  second — a 
lighter,  and  the  third  the  subject  of  this 
itch.  The  father  had  a  sister  who  took 
arge  of  the  children  and  farm.  In  the  fall 
1817  the  father  died  leaving  the  two  chil- 
:n  entirely  alone  with  their  aunt  on  the 
m.  They  were  of  Scotch  descent.  Their 
:her's  sister  married  John  Tyler,  who  was 
erwards  President  of  the  United  States, 
d  was,  therefore,  uncle  by  marriage  to 
nes  Bridger. 

\fter  the  death  of  his  father  and  mother 
idger  had  to  support  himself  and  sister. 
t  got  money  enough  together  to  buy  a 
tboat  ferry,  and  when  ten  years  of  age 
i.de  a  living  by  running  that  ferry  at  St, 
nis.  When  he  was  thirteen  years  old  he 
s  apprenticed  to  Phil  Cromer  to  learn  the 
icksmith's   trade.     Becoming  tired  of  this, 

1822  he  hired  out  to  a  party  of  trappers 
der  General  Ashley,  who  were  enroute  to 
i  mountains.  As  a  boy  he  was  shrewd, 
d   keen   faculties   of   observation,   and   said 


when    he    went    with    the    trappers    that    the 
money  he  earned  would  go  to  his  sister. 

The  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company  was 
organized  by  General  W.  H.  Ashley  in  1822, 
and  commanded  by  Andrew  Henry.  It  left 
St.  Louis  in  April,  1822,  and  it  was  with  this 
party  that   Bridger  enlisted. 

Andrew  Henry  moved  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Yellowstone,  going  by  the  Missouri  River. 
They  lost  one  of  their  boats  which  was  load- 
ed with  goods  worth  $10,000  a.id  while  his 
land  force  was  moving  up  parallel  with  his 
boats  the  Indians,  under  the  guise  of  friend- 
ship, obtained  his  horses.  This  forced  him 
to  halt  and  build  a  fort  for  the  winter  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Yellowstone,  and  they  trapped 
and  explored  in  this  locality  until  the  spring 
of  1823. 

Ashley,  having  returned  to  St.  Louis  in 
the  fall  of  1822,  arrived  with  his  second  ex- 
pedition in  front  of  the  Aricara  villages  on 
May  10,  1823,  where  he  was  defeated  in  bat- 
tle by  the  Indians,  losing  one-half  his  men, 
his  horses  and  baggage.  He  then  sent  o 
courier  across  country  to  Henry,  who  went 
down  the  Missouri  River  with  his  force,  and 
joined  Ashley  near  the  mouth  of  the  Chey- 
enne. The  United  States  forces  under  Gen- 
eral Atkinson  were  then  coming  up  the  Mis- 
souri Valley  to  quell  the  Indian  troubles  and 
Ashley  and  Henry  expected  to  remain  and 
meet  them,  and  their  party  joined  this  force 
under  Colonel  Leavenworth. 

After  this  campaign  was  over,  Henry,  with 
eighty  men  including  Bridger,  moved  in  Aug- 
ust, 1823,  to  his  fort  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Yellowstone,  and  in  crossing  the  country  lost 
two  men  in  a  fight  with  the  Indians.  He  ar- 
rived at  the  fort  August  23,  1823,  and  found 
that  22  of  his  horses  had  been  stolen  by  the 
Indians,  he  abandoned  the  fort,  and  moved 
by  the  Yellowstone  to  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Powder  River.  Meeting  a  band  of  Crows, 
he  purchased  47  horses.  He  then  divided  his 
party,  and  in  the  autumn  of  1823  despatched 
the  new  party  under  Etinenne  Prevost,  a 
noted  trapper  and  trader.  They  moved  by 
the  Big  Horn  and  Wind  Rivers  to  Green 
River.  With  this  party  was  Bridger,  and  no 
doubt  it  was  this  party  that  late  in  the  fall 
of  1823  discovered  the  South  Pass.  The 
South  Pass  is  the  southern  end  of  the  Wind 
River  Mountains  and  all  the  country  there 
gives  down  into  a  level  valley  until  the 
Medicine  Bow  Range  is  reached,  some  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  southeast.  It  forms 
a  natural  depression  through  the  continent, 
and  it  is  through  this  depression  that  the 
Union  Pacific  Railroad  was  built.  In  those 
days  the  pass  was  known  to  the  trappers  in 


{.  Copyright    applied    for.      State    Historian    may    grant 
reasonable   copying   privileges) 


QUARTERLY   BULLETIN 

Edited  by   Mrs.   Cyrus   Beard 

State  Historical  Board 
Governor — William  B.  Ross 
Secretary  of  State — F.  E.  Lucas 
State   Librarian — Flo  La  Chapelle 

Advisory  Board 
Rt.  Rev.  P.  A.  McGovern,  Cheyenne 
Dr.  Grace  R.  Hebard,  Laramie 
Mr.  P.  W.  Jenkins,  Cora 
Mrs.  Willis   M.   Spear,  Sheridan 
Mr.  R.  D.  Hawley,  Douglas 
Miss   Margery  Ross,  Cody 
Mrs.  E.  T.  Raymond,   Newcastle 
Mr.  E.  H.  Fourt,  Lander 
State  Historian — Mrs.  Cyrus  Beard 
Secretary  of  the  Board 

Contents 
Biographical  Sketch  of  James  Bridger 

.Maj.   Gen'l   Grenville   M.   Dodge 

Girlhood  Recollections  of  Laramie  in  1870 

and  1871 Nancy  Fillmore  Brown 

In  Retrospect ..Annie  K.  Parshall 

Letter J.   B.   Gillett 

Letter ...E.  A.   Brininstool 

Letter (Coutant)    Ernest   Pope 

Expense  Account Fort  Fetterman,  1875 

Survey  1923. 
Necrology. 

the  Wind  River  Valley  as  the  southern  route. 
This  depression  is  a  basin  smaller  than  Salt 
Lake,  but  has  no  water  in  it.  It  is  known 
as  the  Red  Desert,  and  extends  about  one 
hundred  miles  east  and  west,  and  sixty  or 
seventy  miles  north  and  south.  The  east 
and  west  rims  of  this  basin  make  two  divides 
of  the  continent. 

This  party  trapped  on  Wind,  Green  and 
other  rivers,  and  in  1823  to  1824  wintered 
in  Cache  Valley  on  Bear  River.  So  far  as 
we  have  any  proof,  Bridger  was  the  first 
man  positively  known  to  see  Salt  Lake.  It 
is  claimed  that  a  Spanish  missionary,  Friar 
Escalante,  of  Santa  Fe,  visited  the  lake  in 
1776.  To  settle  a  wager  as  to  the  course  of 
Bear  River,  Bridger  followed  the  stream  to 
Great  Salt  Lake  and  found  the  wrater  salt. 
He  returned  to  his  party  and  reported  what 
he  had  learned,  and  they  concluded  it  was 
an  arm  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  In  the  spring 
of  1825  four  men  in  skin  boats  explored  the 
short  line,  and  found  it  had  no  outlet. 

Andrew  Henry  was  in  charge  of  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Fur  Company  until  the  fall  of 
1824,  when  Jedediah  S.  Smith  took  the  place, 
and  remained  Ashley's  partner  until  1826 
Ashley  sold  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Com- 
pany to  Smith,  Jackson  and  Sublette  in  July. 
1826.  Bridger  trapped  in  the  interest  of  these 
men  until  1829,  Christopher  Carson  being 
with  him  this  year.  The  winter  1829-30 
Bridger  spent  on  Powder  River  with  Sm'th 
and  Jackson,  and  in  April,  1830,  went  with 
Smith  by  the  way  of  the  Yellowstone  to  the 
Upper  Missouri  and  to  the  Judith  Basin,  and 
then  to  the  yearly  rendezvous  on  Wind  River, 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Popo  Agie. 


1?30 

Sublette  left  St.  Louis  April  10,  l&^u,  with 
eighty-one  men  and  ten  wagons,  with  five 
mules  to  each  wagon  and  these  were  the  firsti 
wagons  to  be  used  over  what  was  known  as) 
"he  Oregon  Trail.  They  reached  the  Wind! 
River  rendezvous  on  July  16th. 

On  August  4,  1830,  Smith,  Jackson  and 
Sublette  sold  out  the  company  to  Milton  G 
Sublette,  Henry  Frack,  John  B.  Gervais  and 
James  .  Bridger.  The  new  firm  was  called 
"he  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company,  and  un- 
der these  people  was  the  only  time  the  com 
pany  operated  under  its  own  name.  The 
trappers  divided  and  occupied  different  sec-: 
tions  of  the  country.  Bridger,  with  Fitzpat 
rick  and  Sublette,  took  two  hundred  men, 
went  into  the  Big  Horn  Basin,  crossed  the 
Yellowstone,  then  north  to  the  great  falls 
of  the  Missouri,  ascended  the  Missouri  tc 
Three  Forks,  went  by  the  Jefferson  to  the 
divide,  then  south  several  hundred  miles  tc 
Salt  Lake,  here  they  obtained  the  furs  col 
lected  by  Peter  Skeen  Ogden,  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company.  They  then  covered  the  coun 
try  to  the  eastward,  and  reached  the  vallev 
of  Powder  River  by  the  first  of  winter,  travel- 
ing in  all  about  1,200  miles.  Here  they  spenl 
the  winter.  It  is  probable  that  during  this 
trip  Bridger  first  saw  Yellowstone  Lake  anc 
Geysers,  and  he  was  probably  the  first  fui 
trader  to  make  known  the  wonders  of  Yel 
lowstone  Park.  He  talked  to  me  a  greai 
deal  about  it  in  the  fifties,  and  his  descriptior 
of  it  was  of  such  a  nature  that  it  was  con- 
sidered to  be  a  great  exaggeration,  but  the 
development  of  the  park  in  later  years  show.' 
that  he  did  not  exaggerate  its  beauties  and 
wonders.  Bridger  was  evidently  well  ac-i 
quainted   with   its   wonderful   features.      Cap-i 


tain  Chittenden,  in  his  "The  Yellowstone  Na- 
tional  Park,"   quotes  from   Gunnison's   "His- 
tory of  the   Mormons,"   giving  Bridger's   de< 
scription   of   the   park   as   follows:      "A   lake 
sixty  miles  long,   cold  and  pelucid,   lies  em>J 
bosomed   among   big   precipitous   mountains™ 
On  the  west  side  is  a  sloping  plain,  severak 
miles  wide,  with  clumps  of  trees  and  grove:  j, 
of    pines.      The    ground    resounds    with    th<||,. 
tread  of  horses.     Geysers  spout  seventy  fee'jr 
high,  with  a  terrific,  hissing  noise,  at  regulam 
intervals.     Water  falls  are  sparkling,  leaping 
and  thundering  down  the  precipices,  and  col 
lect  in  the  pools  below.  The  river  issued  fron 
this  lake,  and  for  fifteen  miles  roars  througl 
the  perpendicular  canyon  at  the  outlet,  in  thi; 
section-  are  the  "Great  Springs,"  so  hot  tha  w 
meat  is  readily  cooked  in  them,  and,  as  the] r 
descend  on  the  successive  terraces,  afford  a1" 
length   delightful   baths.      On   the   other _  sjd F 
is  an  acid   spring,   which   supplies  vermillioi  ° 
for   the   savages   in   abundance.      In    this   adf 
mirable    summary    we    readily    discover    th 
Yellowstone    Lake,    the  "Grand    Canyon,    th' 
falls,  the  geyser  basins,  the  mammoth  spring, 
and  Cinnebar   Mountains." 

Bridger  talked  about  the  Yellowstone  Lak^ia 
and  its  surroundings  to  every  one  he  meljcn< 
and  it  was  not  his  fault  that  the  country  wafer 
not  explored  and  better  known  until  in  thjAn 
sixties.  A  small  lake  near  the  headwaterly 
of  the  Yellowstone  has  been  named  Bridgetfioi 
Lake. 


■fei 


In  the  spring  of  1831  Bridger  and  Sublette 
itarted  for  the  Blackfoot  country,  where  they 
net  a  band  of  the  Crows  who  stole  all  their 
lorses.  Bridger  led  a  party  of  his  men  in 
jursuit  and  recaptured  all  these  horses  as 
veil  as  taking  all  the  ponies  of  the  Crows, 
fitzpatrick  had  gone  to  St.  Louis  to  bring 
>ut  the  winter  supplies.  Bridger  and  Sub- 
ette  followed  nearly  their  previous  year's 
oute  in  their  hunting,  and  in  the  fall  reached 
he  rendezvous  on  Green  River,  where  they 
net  Gervais  and  Frack,  who  were  at  the 
lead  of  another  party  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
ain   Fur  Company. 

After  leaving  St.  Louis  Fitzpatrick  came 
mt  with  his  supplies  by  the  way  of  Santa 
?e,  and  was  so  long  in  reaching  the  rendez- 
'ous  on  Green  River  that  Sublette  returned 
o  the  Powder  River  to  winter,  and  here  they 
irst  met  the  competition  of  the  American 
rur  Company,  which  finally  drove  the  Rocky 
fountain  Fur  Company  out  of  business. 
Titzpatrick  and  Frack  joined  Bridger  here 
in  Powder  River,  but  becoming  disgusted 
nth  the  movements  of  the  American  Fur 
^ompany  under  Vandenburg  and  Dripps, 
fitzpatrick  and  Bridger  with  their  entire  out- 
it  moved  west  some  four  hundred  miles  to 
Dierre's  Hole,  near  the  forks  of  the  Snake 
Irverf,  in  the  spring  of  1832  they  moved  up 
make  to  Salt,  up  that  stream  and  across  to 
ohn  Day  River,  up  that  river  to  its  head, 
nd  across  to  Bear  River  in  the  Great  Salt 
^ake  Basin.  Here  they  again  met  the  Amer- 
:an  Fur  Company,  with  Vandenburg  and 
)ripps.  They  struck  off  into  a  different 
ountry,  and  finally  rendezvoused  again  at 
'ierre's  Hole  waiting  for  the  supplies  from 
he  states  being  brought  out  by  William  L,. 
lublette.  At  their  rendezvous  concentrated 
his  summer  the"  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Corn- 
any,  the  American  Fur  Company,  under 
Vandenburg  and  Dripps;  Arthur  J.  Wyeth 
/ith  a  new  party  coming  mostly  from  the 
■Jew  England  States,  a  large  number  of  free 
raders  and  trappers  and  numerous  bands  of 
ndians,  and  here  occurred  the  celebrated 
attle  of  Pierre's  Hole,  with  the  Gros  Ventre 
ndians,  which  was  one  of  the  hardest  bat- 
les  fought  in  an  early  day  on  the  plains, 
he  losses  being  very. heavy. 

The  battle  of  Pierre's  Hole,  or  the  Teton 
Jasin,  was  fought  July  13,  1832.  Of  the  dif- 
srent  fur  companies  and  free  traders  there 
/ere  present  some  three  hundred  men  and 
everal  hundred  Indians  of  the  Nez  Perces 
nd  Flathead  tribes.  The  Gros  Ventres,  about 
ne  hundred  and  fifty  strong,  always  hostile 
o  the  whites,  were  returning  from  a  visit 
p  their  kindred,  the  Arapahoes.  They  car- 
ied  a  British  flag  captured  from  Hudson 
Jay  Company  trappers. 

When  the  Indians  saw  the  band  of  trap- 
pers, who  were  some  eight  miles  from  the 
lain  rendezvous  at  Pierre's  Hole,  the  In- 
ians  made  signs  of  peace,  but  they  were 
nown  to  be  so  treacherous  that  no  confi- 
ence  was  placed  in  their  signs.  However, 
^.ntoine  Godin,  whose  father  had  been  killed 
y  this  tribe,  and  a  Flathead  chief,  whose  na- 
ion  had  suffered  untold  wrongs  from  them, 
dyanced  to  meet  them.  The  Gros  Ventres' 
hief  came  forward,  and  when  Godin  grasped 


his  hand  in  friendship  the  Flathead  shot  him 
dead.  The  Gros  Ventres  immediately  re- 
tired to  a  grove  of  timber,  and  commenced 
piling  up  logs  and  intrenching.  The  trappers 
sent  word  to  the  rendezvous,  and  when  Sub- 
lette and  Campbell  brought  reinforcements 
the  battle  opened,  the  trappers  charging  the 
Indians,  and  finally  tried  to  burn  them  out, 
but  did  not  succeed.  The  Gros  Ventres, 
through  their  interpreter,  made  the  trappers 
believe  that  a  large  portion  of  their  tribe, 
some  800,  were  attacking  the  rendezvous. 
Upon  learning  this  the  trappers  immediately 
left  for  its  defense  and  found  the  story  was 
a  lie,  but  by  this  ruse  the  Indians  were  able 
to  escape.  The  whites  lost  five  killed  and  six 
wounded.  The  loss  of  the  Gros  Ventres  was 
never  fully  known.  They  left  nine  killed, 
with  twenty-five  horses  and  all  their  baggage, 
and  admitted  a  loss  of  twenty-six  warriors. 
The  Indians  escaped  during  the  night  and 
affected  a  junction  with  their  tribe. 

In  1832  the  American  Fur  Company,  oper- 
ated by  Vandenburg  and  Dripps,  came  into 
the  territory  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur 
Company,  which  was  under  Fitzpatrick  and 
Bridger,  and  undertook  to  follow  their 
parties,  knowing  that  their  trapping  grounds 
yielded  a  great  many  furs.  They  followed 
them  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Missouri  and 
down  the  Jefferson.  Fitzpatrick  and  Bridger 
thought  they  would  get  rid  of  them  by  going 
right  into  the  Blackfoot  nation,  which  was 
very  hostile.  Finally  Vandenburg  and  Dripps 
located  on  the  Madison  Fork  on  October  14, 
1832,  and  near  this  place  the  Blackfeet  killed 
Vandenburg  and  two  of  his  men  and  drove 
his  party  out.  The  Blackfeet  also  attacked 
Bridger  and  his  party,  and  in  his  "American 
Fur  Traders"  Chittenden  gives  this  account 
of  the  wounding  of  Bridger: 

"One  day  they  saw  a  body  of  Blackfeet 
in  the  open  plain,  though  near  some  rocks 
which  could  be  resorted  to  in  case  of  need 
They  made  pacific  overtures,  which  were 
reciprocated  by -the  whites.  A  few  men  ad- 
vanced from  each  party,  a  circle  was  formed 
and  the  pipe  of  peace  was  smoked.  It  is  re- 
lated by  Irwing  that  while  the  ceremony  was 
going  on  a  young  Mexican  named  Loretto, 
a  free  trapper  accompanying  Bridger's  band, 
who  had  previously  ransomed  from  th*1 
Crows,  a  beautiful  Blackfoot  girl,  and  made 
her  his  wife,  was  then  present  looking  on. 
The  girl  recognized  her  brother  among  the 
Indians.  Instantly  leaving  her  infant  with 
the  Lorettos  she  rushed  into  her  brother's 
arms,  and  was  recognized  with  the  greatest 
warmth  and  affection. 

"Bridger  now  rode  forward  to  where  the 
peace  ceremonies  were  enacting.  His  rifle 
lay  across  his  saddle.  The  Blackfoot  chief 
came  forward  to  meet  him.  Through  some 
apparent  distrust  Bridger  cocked  his  rifle  as 
if  about  to  fire.  The  chief  seized  the  barrel 
and  pushed  it  downward  so  that  its  contents 
were  discharged  into  the  ground.  This  pre- 
cipitated a  melee,  Bridger  received  two  arrow 
shots  in  the  back,  and  the  chief  felled  him 
to  the  earth  with  a  blow  from  the  gun, 
which  he  had  wrenched  from  Bridger's  hand. 
The  chief  then  leaped  into  Bridger's  saddle, 
and  the  whole  party  made  for  the  cover  of 


the  rocks,  where  a  desultory  fire  was  kept 
up  for  some  time.  The  Indian  girl  had  been 
carried  along  with  her  people,  and  in  spite 
of  her  pitiful  entreaties  was  not  allowed  to 
return.  Loretto,  witnessing  her  grief,  seized 
the  child  and  ran  to  her,  greatly  to  the 
amazement  of  the  Indians.  He  was  cau- 
tioned to  depart  if  he  wanted  to  save  his  life, 
and  at  his  wife's  earnest  insistence  he  did  so. 
Sometime  afterwards  he  closed  his  account 
with  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company  and 
rejoined  his  wife  among  her  own  people.  It 
is  said  that  he  was  later  employed  as  an  in- 
terpreter at  the  fort  below  the  falls  of  the 
Missouri. 

"One  of  the  arrow  heads  which  Bridger  re- 
ceived in  his  back  on  this  occasion  remained 
there  for  nearly  three  vears,  or  until  the  mid- 
dle of  August,  1835.  At  that  time  Dr.  Mar- 
cus 'Whitman  was  at  the  rendezvous  on  Green 
River  enroute  to  Oregon.  Bridger  was  also 
there,  and  Dr.  Whitman  extracted  the  arrow 
from  his  back.  The  operation  was  a  difficult 
one,  because  the  arrow  was  hooked  at  the 
point  by  striking  a  large  bone,  and  a  carti- 
laginous substance  had  grown  around  it.  The 
Doctor  pursued  the  operation  with  great  self 
possession  and  perserverance,  and  his  patient 
manifested  equal  firmness.  The  Indians 
looked  on  meantime  with  countenances  in- 
dicating wonder,  and  in  their  own  peculiar 
manner  expressed  great  astonishment  when 
it  was  extracted.  The  arrow  was  of  iron  and 
about  three  inches  long." 

In  the  early  thirities  Bridger  discovered 
the  "Two  Oceans  Pass,"  the  most  remark- 
able pass,  probably,  in  the  world.  It  is  8,150 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Its  length 
about -one  mile,  and  width  nearly  the  same. 
From  the  north  a  stream  comes  from  the 
canyon  and  divides  in  the  pass,  part  follow- 
ing to  the  Atlantic  waters  by  the  Yellow- 
stone and  part  to  the  Pacific  by  the  Snake 
River,  the  two  minor  streams  bearing  the 
names  of  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Creeks.  A 
stream  also  comes  from  the  south  and  makes 
the  same  divergence.  Fish  by  these  streams 
pass  from  one  water  to  the  other.  Bridger 
used  to  tell  the  story  of  this  river  and  fish 
passing  through  it,  but  no  one  believed  it 
until  in  later  years  it  was  discovered  to  be 
true,  and  it  is  now  one  of  the  curiosities  of 
"5  ellowstone   Park. 

The  first  great  highwav  across  the  plains 
was  no  doubt  developed  by  Bridger,  and  his 
trappers  and  traders,  in  their  travels,  as  the 
most  feasible  route  to  obtain  wood,  water 
and  grass.  Its  avoidance  of  mountains  and 
difficult  streams  to  cross  was  soon  made  pat- 
ent to  them.  It  was  known  in  an  early  day 
as  the  Overland  Trail,  and  later  on  as  the 
Oregon  Trail.  It  was  established  by  the  nat- 
ural formation  of  the  country.  It  was  first 
used  by  the  wild  animals,  who  followed  the 
present  trail  very  closely  in  their  wanderings, 
especially  the  buffalo.  Next  came  the  In- 
dians' feasible  method  of  crossing  from  the 
Missouri  River  to  the  mountains.  Following 
them  came  the  trappers  and  hunters,  then 
their  supply  trains,  first  by  pack  and  later  by 
wagon.  The  first  wheeled  vehicle  known  to 
have  passed  over  the  trail  was  a  six  pound 
cannon  taken   out  bv   General   Ashlev  to   his 


posts  in  Utah  in  the  summer  of  1826,  and 
the  first  carts  to  pass  over  it  were  those 
taken  out  by  the  route  the  name  of  the  Ore- 
gon Trail.  Next  came  the  Mormons,  and 
following  them  the  great  immigration  to 
California  from   1849  on. 

In  his  "American  Fur  Trade"  Captain 
Chittenden  gives  this  description  of  the  Over- 
land Trail: 

"As  a  highway  of  travel  the  Oregon  Trail 
is  the  most  remarkable  known  to  history. 
Considering  that  it  originated  with  the  spon- 
taneous use  of  travelers;  that  no  transit  ever 
located  a  foot  of  it;  that  no  level  established 
its  grades;  that  no  engineer  sought  out  the 
fords  or  built  any  bridges,  or  surveyed  the 
mountain  passes;  that  there  was  no  grading 
to  speak  of,  nor  any  attempt  at  metalling  the 
roadbed,  and  the  general  good  quality  of  this 
two  thousand  miles  of  highway  will  seem 
most  extraordinary.  Father  DeSmet,  who 
was  born  in  Belgium,  the  home  of  good 
roads,  pronounced  the  Oregon  Trail  one  of 
the  finest  highways  in  the  world.  At  the 
proper  season  of  the  year  this  was  undoubt- 
edly true.  Before  the  prairies  became  too 
dry,  the  natural  turf  formed  the  best  roadway 
for  horses  to  travel  on  that  has  probably  ever 
been  known.  It  was  amply  hard  to  sustain 
traffic,  yet  soft  enough  to  be  easier  to  the 
feet  even  than  the  most  perfect  asphalt  pave- 
ment. Over  such  road,  winding  ribbonlike 
through  the  verdant  prairie  amid  the  pro- 
fusion of  spring  flowers  with  grass  so  plenti- 
ful that  the  animal  reveled  on  its  abundance, 
and  game  everywhere  greeted  the  hunter's 
rifle,  and,  finally,  with  pure  water  in  the 
streams  the  traveler  sped  his  way  with  a  feel- 
ing of  joy  and  exhiliration.  But  not  so  when 
the  prairies  became  dry  and  parched,  the 
road  filled  with  stifling  dust,*  the  stream  beds 
dry  ravines,  or  carrying  only  akaline  waters 
which  could  not  be  used,  the  game  all  gone 
to  more  hospitable  sections,  and  the  summer 
sun  pouring  down  its  heat  with  torrid  inten- 
sity. It  was  then  that  the  trail  became  a 
highway  of  desolation,  strewn  with  aban- 
doned property,  the  skeletons  of  horses, 
mules,  and  oxen,  and,  alas!  too  often,  with 
freshly  made  mounds  and  headboards  that 
told  the  pitiful  tale  of  sufferings  too  great  tc 
be  endured.  If  the  trail  was  the  scene  of  ro- 
mance, adventure,  pleasure  and  excitement 
so  it  was  marked  in  every  mile  of  its  course 
by  human  misery,  tragedy  and  death. 

The  immense  travel  which  in  later  yean 
passed  over  the  trail  carved  it  into  a  deer 
furrow,  often  with  several  wide  paralle 
tracks,  making  a  total  width  of  a  hundrec 
feet  or  more.  It  was  an  astonishing  spec 
tacle  even  to  white  men  when  seen  for  tht 
first  time.  Captain  Raynolds,  of  the  Corp: 
of  Engineers,  United  States  Army,  tells  ; 
good  story  on  himself,  in  this  connection 
In  the  fall  of  1859  he  came  south  from  tb 
Yellowstone  River  aong  the  eastern  base  c 
the  Big  Horn  Mountains  and  struck  the  trai 
somewhere  above  the  first  ford  of  the  Nortl 
Platte.  Before  reaching  it  he  innocent! 
asked  his  guide,  Bridger,  if  there  was  an;! 
danger  of  their  crossing  the  trail  "withou 
seeing  it."  Bridger  answered  him  only  wit ! 
a  look  of  contemptuous  amazement. 


It  may  be  easily  imagined  how  great  an 
impression  the  sight  of  this  road  must  have 
made  upon  the  minds  of  the   Indians. 

Father  DeSmet  has  recorded  some  inter- 
esting observations  upon  this  point.  In  1851 
he  traveled  in  company  with  a  large  number 
af  Indians  from  the  Missouri  and  Yellow- 
stone Rivers  to  Fort  Laramie,  where  a  great 
council  was  held  in  that  year  to  form  treaties 
with  the  several  tribes.  Most  of  these  In- 
dians had  not  been  in  that  section  before, 
md  were  quite  unprepared  for  what  they 
saw.  "Onr  Indian  companions,"  says  Fa- 
ther DeSmet,  "who  had  never  seen  but  the 
narrow  hunting  paths  by  which  they  trans-, 
port  themselves  and  their  lodges,  were  filled 
with  admiration  on  seeing  this  noble  high- 
way, which  is  as  smooth  as  a  bare  floor 
swept  by  the  winds,  and  not  a  a  blade  of 
grass  can  shoot  up  on  it  on  account  of  the 
continual  passing.  They  conceived  a  high  idea 
jf  the  "Countless  White  Nation,"  as  they  ex- 
press it.  They  fancied  that  all  had  gone 
aver  the  road,  and  that  an  immense  void  must 
;xist  in  the  land  of  the  rising  sun.  Their 
xmntenances  testified  evident  incredulity 
when  I  told  them  that  their  exit  was  in  no 
vise  perceived  in  the  land  of  the  whites.  They 
styled  the  route  the  "Great  Medicine  Road  of 
:he^  Whites."  From  1833  to  1840  Bridger 
:ondticted  trapping  parties  in  the  interest  of 
:he  American  Fur  Company  through  the 
:ountry  west  of  the  Big  Horn  River,  reachi- 
ng to  the  Snake,  and  had  many  fights  with 
ind  hairbreadth  escapes  from  hostile  In- 
dians. 

In  1840  he  was  associated  with  Benito 
Vasquez  in  charge  of  an  extensive  outfit, 
which  they  conducted,  in  person  until  1843, 
vhen  Bridger  and  Vasques  built  Fort 
Bridger,  which  seems  to  have  terminated 
Bridger's  individual  trapping,  and  his  ex- 
)erience  as  the  head  of  trapping  outfits. 

In  1842  the  Cheyennes  and  other  Indians 
ittacked  the  Shoshones  near  the  site  of 
3ridger's  fort  and  got  away  with  the  stock. 
Bridger  at  the  head  of  the  trappers  and 
Snakes  followed  them,  killing  many  of  the 
Indians,  and  recapturing  part  of  the  stock, 
riowever,  the  Indians  got  away  with  several 
)f  the  horses.  On  July  8th,  Mr.  Preuss,  of 
Fremont's  expidition,  met  Bridger's  party  on 
he  North  Platte  near  the  mouth  of  the  Medi- 
:ine  Bow.     Writing  of  this  meeting,  he  says: 

"July  8th,  our  road  today  was  a  solitary 
me.  No  game  made  its  appearance — not 
;ven  a  buffalo  or  stray  antelope;  and  nothing 
>ccurred  to  break  the  monotony  until  about 
5  o'clock,  when  the  caravan  made  a  sudden 
lalt.  There  was  a  galloping  in  of  scout  and 
lorsemen  from  every  side — a  hurrying  to  and 
ro  in  noisy  confusion;  rifles  were  taken 
rom  their  cover;  bullet-pouches  examined; 
n  short,  there  was  a  cry  of  "Indians"  here 
igain.  I  had  become  so  accustomed  to  these 
darms  that  now  they  made  but  little  impres- 
sion on  me;  and  before  I  had  time  to  be- 
:ome  excited  the  newcomers  were  ascer- 
ained  to  be  whites.  It  was  a  large  party  of 
raders  and  trappers,  conducted  by  Mr. 
Bridger,  a  man  well  known  in  the  history 
>f  the  country.  As  the  sun  was  low,  and 
:here  was  a   fine  grass   patch   not   far   ahead 


they  turned  back  and  encamped  for  the  night 
with   us. 

"Mr.  Bridger  was  invited  to  supper,  and, 
after  the  table-cloth  was  removed,  we  listened 
with  eager  interest  to  an  account  of  their  ad- 
ventures. What  they  had  met  we  would  be 
likely  to  encounter;  the  chances  which  had 
befallen  them  would  likely  happen  to  us; 
and  we  looked  upon  their  life  as  a  picture 
of  our  own.  He  informed  us  that  the  con- 
dition of  the  country  had  become  exceed- 
ingly dangerous.  The  Sioux,  who  had  been 
badly  disposed  had  broken  out  into  open  hos- 
tility, and  in  the  preceding  autumn  his  party 
had  encountered  them  in  a  severe  engage- 
ment, in  which  a  number  of  lives  had  been 
lost  on  both  sides.  United  with  the  Chey- 
enne and  Gros  Ventre  Indians,  they  were 
scouring  the  upper  country  in  war  parties 
of  great  force,  and  were  at  this  time  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  Red  Buttes,  a  famous 
landmark,  which  was  directly  on  our  path. 
They  had  declared  war  upon  every  living 
thing  which  should  be  found  westward  of  the 
point;  though  their  main  object  was  to  at- 
tack a  large  camp  of  whites  and  Snake  In- 
dians who  had  a  rendezvous  in  the  Sweet- 
water Valley.  Availing  himself  of  his  inti- 
mate knowledge  of  the  country,  he  had 
reached  Laramie  by  an  unusual  route  through 
the  Black  Hills  and  avoided  coming  in  con- 
tact with  any  of  the  scattered  parties. 

"This  gentleman  offered  his  services  to  ac- 
company us  as  far  as  the  head  of  the  Sweet- 
water, but  in  the  absence  of  our  leader,  which 
was  deeply  regretted  by  us  all,  it  was  impos- 
sible for  us  to  enter  upon  such  an  arrange- 
ment." 

Fort  Bridger,  located  in  latitude  41  de- 
grees 18  minutes  12  seconds  and  longitude 
110  degrees  18  minutes  38  seconds,  is  1,070 
miles  west  of  the  Missouri  River  by  wagon 
road,  and  886  miles  by  railroad.  Bridger 
selected  this  spot  on  account  of  its  being  on 
the  overland  emigrant  and  Mormon  trail, 
whether  by  the  North  or  South  Platte 
routes,  as  both  came  together  at  or  near 
Bridger. 

The  land  on  which  Fort  Bridger  is  located 
was  obtained  by  Bridger  from  the  Mexican 
Government  before  any  of  the  country  was 
ceded  by  Mexico  to  the  United  States.  He 
lived  there  in  undisputed  possession  until  he 
leased  the  property  in  1857  to  the  United 
States  by  formal  written  lease  signed  by  Al- 
bert Sidney  Johnston's  quartermaster.  The 
rental  value  was  $600  per  year,  which  was 
never  paid  by  the  Government.  After  thirty 
years  the  Governmet  finally  paid  Bridger 
$6,000.00  for  the  improvements  on  the  land 
but  nothing  for  the  land.  A  bill  is  now 
pending  in  Congress  to  pay  his  estate  for  the 
value  of  the  land.  The  improvements  on  the 
land,  were  worth  a  great  deal  more  money, 
but  after  the  Government  took  possession 
it  seemed  to  have  virtually  ignored  the  rights 
of  Bridger. 

The  fort  occupied  a  space  of  perhaps  two 
acres,  surrounded  by  a  stockade.  Timbers 
were  set  in  the  ground  and  elevated  eight  or 
ten  feet  above  the  surface.  Inside  this  stock- 
ade Bridger  had  his  residence  on  one  side, 
and   his   trading   post   in   the   corner   directly 


across  from  it.  It  had  swinging  gates  in  the 
center  of  the  front,  through  which  teams 
and  cattle  could  he  driven  safe  from  Indians 
and  renegade  white  thieves.  He  owned  a 
large  number  of  cattle,  horses  and  mules,  and 
his  place  was  so  situated  that  he  enjoyed  a 
large  trade  with  the  Mormons,  gold  hunters, 
mountaineers,  and  Indians. 

In  a  letter  Bridger  wrote  to  Pierre  Chotau, 
of  St.  Louis,  on  December  10,  1843,  he  says: 

"I  have  established  a  small  fort,  with  black- 
smith shop  and  a  supply  of  iron  in  the  road 
of  the  immigrants  on  Black  Fork  of  Green 
River,  which  promises  fairly.  In  coming  out 
here  they  are  generally  well  supplied  with 
money,  but  by  the  time  they  get  here  they 
are  in  need  of  all  kinds  of  supplies,  horses, 
provisions,  smith-work,  etc.  They  bring 
ready  cash  from  the  States,  and  should  I  re- 
ceive the  goods  ordered  will  have  consider- 
able business  in  that  way  with  them,  and 
establish  trade  with  the  Indians  in  the 
neighborhood,  who  have  a  good  number  of 
beaver  among  them.  The  fort  is  a  beautiful 
location  in  the  Black  Fork  of  Green  River, 
receiving  fine,  fresh  water  from  the  snow  on 
the  Uinta  range.  The  streams  are  alive  with 
mountain  trout.  It  passes  through  the  fort 
in  several  channels,  each  lined  with  trees, 
kept  alive  by  the  moisture  of  the  soil." 

It  was  a  veritable  oasis  in  the  desert,  and 
its  selection  showed  good  judgment  on  the 
part  of  the  founder. 
Jjl_LS65  Bridger  had  trouble  with  the  Mor 


mons.  They  threatened  him  with  death  and 
the  confiscation  of  all  his  property  at  Fort 
Bridger,  and  he  was  robbed  of  all  his  stock, 
merchandise,  and  in  fact,  of  everything  he 
possessed,  which  he  claimed  was  worth  $100,- 
000.  The  buildings  at  the  fort  were  destroyed 
by  fire,  and  Bridger  barely  escaped  with  his 
life.  This  brought  on  what  was  known  as  the 
Utah  Expedition  under  Albert  Sidney  John- 
ston. Bridger  piloted  the  army  out  there, 
taking  it  through  by  what  is  known  as  the 
Southern  Route,  which  he  had  discovered, 
which  runs  by  the  South  Platte,  up  the  Lodge 
Pole,  over  Cheyenne  Pass,  by  the  old  Fort 
Halleck,  and  across  the  continental  divide  at 
Bridger's  Pass  at  the  head  of  the  Muddy,  fol- 
lows down  Bitter  Creek  to  Green  River, 
crosses  that  river,  and  then  up  Black  Fork- 
to  Fort  Bridger. 

As  the  troops  had  made  no  arrangements 
for  winter,  and  shelter  for  the  stock  was  not 
to  be  found  in  the  vicinity,  of  Salt  Lake, 
Bridger  tendered  to  them  the  use  of  Fort 
Bridger  and  the  adjoining  property,  which 
offer  was  accepted  by  Johnston,  who  win- 
tered his  army  there.  It  was  at  this  time 
that  the  Government  purchased  from  Bridger 
his  Mexican  grant  of  Fort  Brdiger  but,  as 
heretofore  mentioned  never  paid  him  for  the 
property,  merely  paying  the  rental,  and  claim- 
ing that  Bridger's  title  was  not  perfect.  This 
was  a  great  injustice  to  Bridger.  His  title 
was  one  of  possession.  He  had  established 
here  a  trading  post  that  had  been  of  great 
benefit  to  the  Government  and  the  overland 
immigration,  and  he  was  entitled  to  all  he 
claimed.  The  fort  was  the  rendezvous  of 
all  the  trade  and  travel,  of  the  Indians,  trap- 


pers and  voyagers  of  all  that  section  of  the 
country. 

Concerning  his  claim  against  the  Govern- 
ment, under  date  of  October  27,  1873,  Bridger 
wrote  to  General  B.  F.  Butler,  U.  S.  Senator, 
as  follows: 

*  *  *  "You  are  probably  aware  that  I  am 
one  of  the  earliest  and  oldest  explorers  and 
trappers  of  the  Great  West  now  alive.  Many 
years  prior  to  the  Mexican  War,  the  time 
Fort  Bridger  and  adjoining  Territories  be- 
came the  property  of  the  United  States,  and 
ten  years  thereafter  (1857)  I  was  in  peacable 
possession  of  my  old  trading  post,  Fort 
Bridger,  occupied  it  as  such,  and  resided 
'thereat,  a  fact  well  known  to  the  Govern- 
ment, as  well  as  the  public  in  general. 

"Shortly  before  the  so-called  Utah  Expedi- 
tion, and  before  the  Government  troops  un- 
der General  A.  S.  Johnston  arrived  near  Salt 
Lake  City,  I  was  robbed  and  threatened  with 
death  by  the  Mormons,  by  the  direction  of 
Brigham  Young,  of  all  my  merchandise, 
stock,  in  fact  everything  I  possessed,  amount- 
ing to  more  than  $100,000  worth— the  build- 
ings in  the  fort  practically  destroyed  by  fire, 
and  I  barely  escaped  with  my  life. 

"I  was  with  and  piloted  the  army  under 
said  General  Johnston  out  there,  and  since  the 
approach  of  winter  no  convenient  shelter  for 
the  troops  and  stock  could  be  found  in  the 
vicinity  of  Salt  Lake,  I  tendered  to  them  my 
so-called  fort  (Fort  Bridger)  with  the  ad- 
joining shelter,  affording  rally  for  winter 
quarters.  My  offer  being  accepted,  a  writ- 
ten contract  was  entered  into  between  myself 
and  Captain  Dickerson,  of  the  Quartermas- 
ter's Department,  in  behalf  of  the  United 
States,  approved  by  General  A.  S.  Johnston, 
and  more  so  signed  by  various  officers  on 
the  general's  staff  such  as  Major  Fitz-john 
Portor,  Drs.  Madison,  Mills  and  Bailey;  Lieu- 
tenant Rich,  Colonel  Wright,  and  others  a 
copy  of  which  is  now  on  file  in  the  War  De- 
partment at  Washington.  I  also  was  fur- 
nished with  a  copy  thereof,  which  was  unfor- 
tunately destroyed  during  the  war. 

"I  am  now  getting  old  and  feeble  and  am 
a  poor  man,  and  consequently  unable  tc 
prosecute  my  claim  as  it  probably  should  be 
done.  For  that  reason  I  respectfully  apply 
to  you  with  the  desire  of  entrusting  the  mat- 
ter into  your  hands,  ^authorizing  you  for  me 
to  use  such  means  as  you  may  deem  proper 
for  the  successful  prosecution  of  this  claim. 
I  would  further  state  that  1  have  been  strictly 
loyal  during  the  later  rebellion,  and  during 
the  most  of  the  time  in  the  war  in  the  em- 
ployment of  the   Government. 

"Trusting  confidently  that  you  will  do  me 
the  favor  of  taking  the  matter  in  hand  or 
furnish  me  with  your  advise  in  the  matter, 
I  have  the  honor,  etc." 

On  July  4,  1849,  Bridger's  second  wife,  a 
Ute,  died.  He  had  been  for  some  time  con- 
sidering the  movement  of  his  family  to  the 
states,  where  his  children  could  be  educated, 
intending  to  devote  his  own  time  to  the  trad- 
ing post  at  Fort  Bridger.  He  went  to  the 
State  in  1850,  taking  with  him  his  third  wife,- 
a  Snake  woman,  and  settled  upon  a  little 
farm  near  Little  Santa  Fe,  Jackson  County, 
Missouri.      Bridger    usually    spent    the    sum- 


mers  on  the  plains  and  went  home  winters. 
In  the  spring  of  1862  Bridger  was  at  his 
home  in  Little  Santa  Fe,  when  the  Govern- 
ment called  him  onto  the  plains  to  guide  the 
troops  in  the  Indian  campaigns.  I  found 
him  there  when  I  took  charge  of  that  coun- 
try in  January,  1865,  and  placed  him  as  guide 
of  the  Eleventh  Ohio  Cavalry  in  its  march 
from  Fort  Riley  to  Fort  Laramie.  Bridger 
remained  with  them  in  the  many  encounters 
they  had  with  the  Indians  and  his  services 
to  them  were  invaluable.  In  the  Indian  cam- 
paign of  1865-6  Bridger  guided  General  Con- 
ner's column  that  marched  from  Fort  Lara- 
mie to  Tongle  River,  and  took  part  in  the 
battle  on  Tongue  River. 

Captain  H.  E.  Palmer,  Eleventh  Kansas 
Cavalry,  Acting  Assistant  Adju.  General  to 
General  P.  E.  Conner,  gives  this  description 
oi  the  Indian  camp  on  Tongue  River,  August 
26,  1865: 

"Left  Piney  Fork  at  6:45  A.  M.,  traveled 
north  over  a  beautiful  country  until  about  8 
A.  M.,  when  our  advance  reached  the  top 
of  the  ridge  dividing  the  waters  of  the  Pow- 
der from  that  of  the  Tongue  River.  I  was 
■iding  in  the  extreme  advance  in  company 
with  Major  Bridger.  We  were  2,000  yards 
it  least  ahead  of  the  General  and  his  staff; 
Duf  Pawnee  scouts  were  there  and  there  was 
10  advance  guard  immediately  in  front.  As 
:he  Major  and  myself  reached  the  top  of  the 
bill  we  voluntarily  halted  our  steeds.  I 
'aised  my  field  glass  to  my  eyes  and  took  in 
:he  grandest  view  that  I  had  ever  seen.  I 
could  see  the  north  end  of  the  Big  Horn 
■ange,  and  away  beyond  the  faint  outline  of 
he  mountains  beyond  the  Yellowstone.  Away 
to  the  northeast  the  Wolf  Mountain  range 
vas  distinctly  visible.  Immediately  before  us 
ay  the  Valley  of  Peneau  Creek,  now  called 
Prairie  Dog  Creek,  and  beyond  the  Little 
joose,  Big  Goose,  and  Tongue  River  Val- 
leys, and  many  other  tributary  streams.  The 
morning  was  clear  and  bright,  with  not  a 
)reath  of  air  stirring.  The  old  Major,  sit- 
ing upon  his  horse  with  his  eyes  shaded  with 
lis  hands,  had  been  telling  me  for  an  hour 
)r  more  about  his  Indian  life  —  his  forty 
fears'  experience  on  the  plains,  telling  me 
low  to  trail  Indians,  and  distinguish  the 
racks  of  different  tribes;  how  every  spear 
)f  grass,  every  tree  and  srub  and  stone  was 
l  compass  to  the  experienced  trapper  and 
lunter- — a  subject  that  I  had  discussed  with 
lim  nearly  every  day.  During  the  winter  of 
863  I  had  contributed  to  help  Mrs.  Bridger 
ind  the  rest  of  the  family,  all  of  which  facts 
he  Major  had  been  acquainted  with,  which 
nduced  him  to  treat  me  as  an  old-time 
riend. 

"As  I  lowered  my  glass  the  Major  said, 
Do  you  see  those  ere  columns  of  smoke  over 
onder?'  I  replied,  'Where,  Major?'  to  which 
le  answered,  'Over  there  by  that  ere  saddle,' 
meaning  a  depression  in  the  hills  not  unlike 
he  shape  of  a  saddle,  pointing  at  the  same 
ime  to  a  point  nearly  fifty  miles  away.  I 
gain  raised  my  glass  to  my  eyes  and  took 

long,  earnest  look,  and  for  the  life  of  me 
ould  not  see  any  column  of  smoke,  even 
nth  a  strong  field  glass.  The  Major  was 
coking  without  any  artificial  help.     The  at- 


mosphere appeared  to  be  slightly  hazy  in 
the  long  distance,  like  smoke,  but  there  were 
no  distinct  columns  of  smoke  in  sight.  As 
soon  as  the  General  with  his  staff  arrived  1 
called  his  attention  to  Major  Bridger's  dis- 
covery. The  General  raised  his  field  glass 
and  scanned  the  horizon  closely,  after  a  long 
look,  he  remarked  that  there  were  no  col- 
umns of  smoke  to  be  seen.  The  Major 
quietly  mounted  his  horse  and  rode  on.  I 
asked  the  General  to  look  again;  that  the 
Major  was  very  confident  that  he  could  see 
columns  of  smoke  which,  of  course  indicated 
an  Indian  village.  The  General  made  an- 
other examination  and  again,  asserted  that 
there  was  no  column  of  smoke.  However, 
to  satisfy  curiosity  and  to  give  our  guides 
no  chance  to  claim  that  they  had  shown  us 
an  Indian  village  and  we  would  not  attack 
it,  he  suggested  to  Captain  Frank  North, 
who  was  riding  with  his  staff,  that  he  go 
with  seven  of  his  Indians  in  the  direction 
indicated  to  reconnoitre  and  to  report  to  us 
on  Peneau  Creek  or  Tongue  River,  down 
which  were  to  march.  I  galloped  on  and 
overtook  the  Major,  and  as  I  came  up  to 
him  overheard  him  remark  about  "these  damn 
paper  collar  soldiers"  telling  him  there  was 
no  columns  of  smoke.  The  old  man  was 
very  indignant  at  our  doubting  his  ability 
to  outsee  us,  with  the  aid  of  field  glasses 
even.  Just  after  sunset  on  August  27  two 
of  the  Pawnees  who  went  out  with  Captain 
North  had  discovered  an   Indian  village." 

It  was  this  villiage  that  Conner  captured 
the  next  day,  the  fight  being  known  as  the 
battle  of  Tongue  River. 

In  May,  1869,  Captain  Raynolds  was  as- 
signed to  the  exploration  of  the  country  sur- 
rounding Yellowstone  Park,  and  I  have  no 
Joubt  it  was  from  hearing  of  Bridger's  knowl- 
edge of  that  park  and  its  surroundings  that 
caused  him  to  engage  Bridger  for  his  guide. 
Bridger  was  with  him  about  a  year  and  a 
half,  but  they  failed  on  his  trip  to  enter  the 
park,  being  stopped  by  the  heavy  snows  in 
the  passes,  but  they  explored  and  mapped 
the  country  surrounding  the  park. 

In  1860  Ned  Buntline,  the  great  story  ro- 
mance writer,  hunted  up  Bridger  at  his  home 
in  Weston  and  Bridger  gave  him  enough  ad- 
ventures to  keep  him  writing  the  balance  of 
his  life.  Bridger  took  a  liking  to  Buntline, 
and  took  him  across  the  plains  with  him  on 

scouting  trip.  After  a  while  Buntline  re- 
turned to  the  East,  and  not  long  afterwards 
the  Jim  Bridger  stories  commenced  to  be 
published.  One  of  these  was  printed  every 
week,  and  Bridger's  companions  used  to  save 
them  up  and  read  them  to  him.  Buntline 
made  Bridger  famous,  and  carried  him 
through  more  hairbreadth  escapes  than  any 
man  ever  had. 

Bridger's  first  wife  was  the  daughter  of  a 
Flathead  chief.  She  died  in  1846.  Her  chil- 
dren were  Felix  and  Josephine,  both  of  whom 
were  sent  to  school  in  St.  Louis.  Felix  en- 
listed in  the  spring  of  1863  in  Company  I, 
Second  Missouri  Artillery,  under  General 
Totten.  He  served  throughout  the  Civil 
War,  and  later  was  with  Custer  in  his  In- 
dian campaigns  in  Texas  and  Indian  Terri- 
tory.    He  died  in  1876  on  the  farm  near  Lit- 


tie  Santa  Fe,  Missouri,  having  returned  there 
from  Dallas,  Texas. 

Bridger's  second  wife  was  a  Ute,  who  died 
July  4th,  1849,  at  the  birth  of  her  first  child, 
now  Mrs.  Virginia  K.  Waschman.  Bridger 
brought  this  child  up  on  buffalo's  milk.  When 
she  was  five  years  old  she  was  sent  to  Rob- 
ert Campbell  in  St.  Louis,  and  two  years 
later  joined  her  sister  Josephine  in  the  con- 
vent. 

When  Virginia  was  about  10  years  old 
she  obtained  from  Mrs.  Robert  Campbell  a 
daguerreotype  of  her  father  which  was  taken 
in  1843.  She  colored  or  painted  his  picture, 
and  in  1902  presented  it  to  me,  saying:  "I 
am  most  sure  you  will  be  pleased  with  it  as 
a  gift  from  me,  and  it  will  remind  you  of  the 
great  old  times  that  you  and  father  had  when 
you  were  out  in  the  mountains  among  the 
wild  Indians.  I  have  often  heard  my  father 
speak  of  you,  and  have  wanted  to  see  you 
and  tell  you  a  great  many  things  that  hap- 
pened when  I  was  a  child  at  Fort  Bridger. 
Before  my  father's  death  he  was  very  anx- 
ious to  see  you  regarding  old  Fort  Bridger, 
but  could  not  find  you." 

In  1850  Bridger  took  as  his  third  wife  a 
Snake  woman.  He  bought  a  little  farm  near 
Santa  Fe,  Mo.,  and  moved  his  family  there 
from  Fort  Bridger  that  year.  Mary  was 
born  in  1853.  William  was  born  in  1857, 
and  died  from  consumption  in  1892.  In  1858 
his  wife  died  and  buried  in  Boone  cemetery, 
near  Waldo  Station,  Missouri.  Bridger  was 
on  the  plains  at  the  time  of  her  death,  but 
returned  to  Missouri  in  the  spring  of  1859, 
soon  after  he  heard  of  her  death,  and  re- 
mained on  the  farm  until  1862.  This  year 
he  rented  the  farm  to  a  man  named  Brooks, 
and  bought  the  Colonel  A.  G.  Boone  house 
in  Wesport.  He  left  his  family  there  in 
charge  of  a  Mr.  London  and  his  wife,  and 
on  the  call  of  the  Government  in  the  spring 
of  1862  he  left  for  the  mountains  to  guide 
the  troops  on  the  plains.  He  remained  on 
plains  until  late  in  1869  or  1870.  In  the 
spring  of  1871  he  moved  back  to  his  farm 
near   Little   Santa   Fe. 

Of  his  life  from  this  time  until  his  death, 
his  daughter  Mrs.  Waschman,  writes  me  the 
following: 

"In  1873  father's  health  began  to  fail  him, 
and  his  eyes  were  very  bad,  so  that  he  could 
not  see  good,  and  the  only  way  that  father 
could  distinguish  any  person  was-  by  the 
sound  of  their  voice,  but  all  who  had  the 
privilege  of  knowing  him  were  aware  of  his 
wonderful  state  of  health  at  that  time,  but 
later,  in  1874,  father's  eyesight  was  leaving 
him  very  fast  and  this  worried  him  so  much. 
He  has  often-times  wished  that  he  could  see 
you.  At  times  father  would  get  very  ner- 
vous, and  wanted  to  be  on  the  go.  I  had  to 
watch  after  him  and  lead  him  around  to 
please  him,  never  still  one  moment. 

"I  got  father  a  good  old  gentle  horse,  so 
that  he  could  ride  around  and  have  some- 
thing to  pass  away  time,  so  one  day  he  named 
his  old  horse  "Ruff."  We  also  had  a  dog 
that  went  with  father;  he  named  this  old, 
faithful  dog  "Sultan."  Sometimes  father 
would  call  me  and  say:  "I  wish  you  would 
go  and   saddle  old   Ruff  for  me;    I   feel   like 


riding  around  the  farm,"  and  the  faithful 
old  dog  would  go  along.  Father  could  not 
see  very  well,  but  the  old  faithful  horse 
would  guide  him  along,  but  at  times  father 
would  draw  the  lines  wrong,  and  the  horse 
would  go  wrong,  and  they  would  get  lost 
in  the  woods.  The  strange  part  of  it  was 
the  old,  faithful  dog  Sultan,  would  come 
home  and  let  us  know  that  father  was  lost. 
The  dog  would  bark  and  whine  until  I  would 
go  out  and  look  for  him,  and  lead  him  and 
the  old  horse  home  on  the  main  road.  Some- 
times father  wanted  to  take  a  walk  out  to 
the  fields  with  old  Sultan  by  his  side,  and 
cane  in  hand  to  guide  his  way  out  to  the 
wheat  field,  would  want  to  know  how  high 
the  wheat  was,  and  then  father  would  go 
down  on  his  knees  and  reach  out  his  hands 
to  feel  for  the  wheat,  and  that  was  the  way 
he  passed  away  his  time. 

"Father  at  times  wished  that  he  could  see, 
and  only  have  his  eyesight  back  again,  so 
that  he  could  go  back  out  to  see  the  moun- 
tains, I  know  he  at  times  would  feel  lone- 
some, and  long  to  see  some  of  his  old  moun- 
tain friends  to  have  a  good  chat  of  olden 
times  away  back  in  the  fifties. 

"Father  often  spoke  of  you,  and  would 
say,  T  wonder  if  General  Dodge  is  alive  or 
not;  I  would  give  anything  in  the  world  if 
I  could  see  some  of  the  old  army  officers 
once  more  to  have  a  talk  with  them  of  olden 
times,  but  I  know  I  will  not  be  able  to  see 
any  of  my  old-time  mountain  friends  any 
more.  I  know  that  my  time  is  near.  I  feel 
that  my  health  is  failing  me  very  fast,  and 
see  that  I  am  not  the  same  man  I  used  to 
be.'  " 

Bridger  was  77  years  old  when  he  died,  and 
was  buried  on  the  Stubbins  Watts  farm,  a 
mile  north  of  Dallas,  not  far  south  of  West- 
port.  His  two  sons,  William  and  Felix,  were 
buried  beside  him. 
On  Bridger's  grave-stone  is  the  following: 

"James  Bridger,  born  March  17,  1804- 
died  July  17,  1881. 

We  miss  thee  in  the  circle  around  the  fire- 
side, 
We  miss  thee  in  devotion  at  peaceful  even- 
tide. 
The  memory  of  your  nature  so  full  of  truth 

and  love. 
Shall  lead  our  thoughts  to  seek  them  among 
the  best  above. 
At  the  time  of  his  death  Bridger's  home 
was  a  long  two-story  house;  not  far  from 
where  he  is  buried  with  big  chimneys  at  each 
end.  It  is  now  abandoned  and  dilapidated, 
with  windows  all  broken.  It  is  about  one 
mile  south  of  Dallas.  He  had  160  acres  of 
land.  No  one  lived  in  the  house  for  years. 
The  neighbors  say  it  is  haunted,  and  will 
not  go  near  it. 

One  of  his  wives  is  buried  in  a  grave-yard 
several  miles  east  of  his  grave.  I  found 
Bridger  a  very  companionable  man. 

In  person  he  was  over  six  feet  tall,  spare, 
straight  as  an  arrow,  agile,  rawboned  and  of 
powerful  frame,  eyes  gray,  hair  brown  and 
abundant  even  in  old  age,  expression  mild 
and  manners  agreeable.  He  was  hospitable 
and  generous,  and  was  always  trusted  and 
respected.      He   possessed   in   a   high   degree 


he  confidence  of  the  Indians.  He  was  one 
if  the  most  noted  hunters  and  trappers  on 
he  plains.  Naturally  shrewd,  and  possessing 
:een  faculties  of  observation  he  carefully 
tudied  the  habits  of  all  animals,  especially 
he  beaver,  and,  profiting:  from  the  knowl- 
dge  obtained  from  the  Indians,  with  whom 
e  chiefly  associated,  and  with  whom  he  be- 
ame  a  great  favorite,  he  soon  became  one 
if  the  most  expert  hunters  and  trappers  in 
he  mountains.  The  beaver  at  first  abound- 
d  in  every  mountain  stream  in  the  country, 
>ut  at  length,  by  being  constantly  pursued, 
hey  began  to  grow  more  wary  and  diminish 
n  numbers,  until  it  became  necessary  for 
rappers  to  extend  their  researches  to  more 
!istant  streams.  Eager  to  gratify  his  cur- 
osity,  and  with  a  natural  fondness  for  moun- 
ain  scenery,  he  traversed  the  country  in  ev- 
ry  direction,  sometimes  accompanied  by  an 
ndian,  but  oftener  alone.  He  familiarized 
limself  with  every  mountain  peak,  every 
eep  gorge,  every  hill  and  every  landmark 
n  the  country.  Having  arrived  upon  the 
>anks  of  some  before  undiscovered  stream, 
nd  finding  signs  of  his  favorite  game,  he 
vould  immediately  proceed  to  his  traps,  and 
hen  take  his  gun  and  wander  over  the  hills 
:i  quest  of  game,  the  meat  of  which  formed 
he  only  diet  of  the  trapper  at  that  early 
ay.  When  a  stream  afforded  game  it  was 
rapped  to  its  source,  and  never  left  as  long 
s  beaver  could  be  caught. 

While  engaged  in  this  thorough  system  of 
rapping  no  object  of  interest  escaped  his 
crutiny,  and  when  once  known  it  was  ever 
fter  remembered.  He  could  describe  with 
he  minutest  accuracy  places  that  perhaps 
le  had  visited  but  once,  and  that  many  years 
before,  and  he  could  travel  in  almost  a  direct 
ine  from  one  point  to  another  in  the  greatest 
listances,  with  certainty  of  always  making 
lis  goal.  He  pursued  his  trapping  expedi- 
ions  north  to  the  British  possessions,  south 
ar  into  New  Mexico  and  west  to  the  Pacific 
)cean,  and  in  this  way  became  acquainted 
vith  all  the  Indian  tribes  in  the  country,  and 
iy  long  intercourse  with  them  learned  their 
anguages,  and  became  familiar  with  all  their 
igns.  He  adopted  their  habits,  conformed 
o  their  customs,  became  imbued  with  all 
heir  superstitions,  and  at  length  excelled 
hem  in  strategy.  He  was  a  great  favorite 
vith  the  Crow  nation,  and  was  one  time 
lected  and  became  their  chief. 

Bridger  was  also  a  great  Indian  fighter, 
ind  I  have  heard  two  things  said  of  him 
>y  the  best  plainsmen  of  his  time;  that  he 
lid  not  know  what  fear  was,  and  that  he 
lever  once  lost  his  bearings,  either  on  the 
>lains  or  in  the  mountains. 

In  those  days  Bridger  was  rich.  He  was 
it  the  head  of  great  trapping  parties,  and 
wo  great  fur  companies — the  Rocky  Moun- 
ain  Fur  Company  and  Northwestern  Fur 
Company.  When  he  became  older  he  spent 
lis  winters  in  Westport,  and  in  the  summer 
vas  a  scout  and  guide  for  Government  troops 
jetting  ten  dollars  a  day  in  gold. 

Unquestionably  Bridger's  claims  to  remem- 
>rance  rest  upon  the  extraordinary  part  he 
)ore  in  the  explorations  of  the  West.  As 
i   guide   he   was   without   an   equal,   and   this 


is  the  testimony  of  every  one  who  ever  em- 
ployed him.  He  was  a  born  topographer; 
the  whole  west  was  mapped  out  in  his  mind, 
and  such  was  his  instinctive  sense  of  locality 
and  direction  that  it  used  to  be  said  of  him 
that  he  could  smell  his  way  where  he  could 
not  see  it.  He  was  a  complete  master  of 
plains  and  woodcraft,  equal  to  any  emer- 
gency, full  of  resources  to  overcome  any  ob- 
stacle, and  I  came  to  learn  gradually  how 
it  was  that  for  months  such  men  could  live 
without  food  except  what  the  country  afford- 
ed in  that  wild  region.  In  a  few  hours  they 
would  put  together  a  bull-boat  and  put  us 
across  any  stream.  Nothing  escaped  their 
vision,  the  dropping  of  a  stick  or  breaking 
of  a  twig,  the  turning  of  the  growing  grass, 
all  brought  knowledge  to  them,  and  they 
could  tell  who  or  what  had  done  it.  A  single 
horse  or  Indian  could  not  cross  the  trail  but 
that  they  discovered  it,  and  could  tell  how 
long  since  they  passed.  Their  methods  of 
hunting  game  were  perfect,  and  we  were 
never  out  of  meat.  Herbs,  roots,  berries, 
bark  of  trees  and  everything  that  was  edible 
they  knew.  They  could  minister  to  the  sick, 
dress  wounds — in  fact  in  all  my  experience 
I  never  saw  Bridger  or  the  other  voyagers 
of  the  plains  and  mountains  meet  any  ob- 
stacle they  could  not  overcome. 

While  Bridger  was  not  an  educated  man, 
still  any  country  that  he  had  ever  seen  he 
could  fully  and  intelligently  describe,  and 
could  make  a  very  correct  estimate  of  the 
country  surrounding  it.  He  could  make  a 
map  of  any  country  he  had  traveled  over, 
mark  out  its  streams  and  mountains  and  the 
obstacles  in  it  correctly,  so  that  there  was 
no  trouble  in  following  it  and  fully  under- 
standing it.  He  never  claimed  knowledge 
that  he  did  not  have  of  the  country,  or  its 
history  and  surroundings,  and  was  positive 
in  his  statements  in  relation  to  it.  He  was 
a  good  judge  of  human  nature.  His  com- 
ments upon  people  that  he  had  met  and  been 
with  were  always  intelligent  and  seldom  criti- 
cal. He  always  spoke  of  their  good  parts, 
and  was  universally  respected  by  the  moun- 
tain men  and  looked  upon  as  a  leader,  also 
by  all  the  Indians.  He  was  careful  to  never 
give  his  word  without  fulfilling  it.  He  un- 
derstood thoroughly  the  Indian  character, 
their  peculiarities  and  superstitions.  He  felt 
very  keenly  any  loss  of  confidence  in  him 
or  his  judgment,  especially  when  acting  as 
a  guide,  and  when  he  struck  a  country  or 
trail  he  was  not  familiar  with  he  would 
frankly  say  so,  but  would  often  say  he  could 
take  our  party  up  to  the  point  he  wanted  to 
reach.  As  a  guide  I  do  not  think  he  had  his 
equal  upon  the  plains.  So  remarkable  a  man 
should  not  be  lost  to  history  and  the  coun- 
try, and  his  work  allowed  to  be  forgotten, 
and  for  this  reason  I  have  compiled  this 
sketch  and  raised  a  simple  monument  to  rrX 
memory,  reciting  upon  it  briefly  the  prin- 
cipal facts  of  his  life  and  work.  It  bears  this 
inscription: 

1804— James   Bridger— 1881 
Celebrated    as   a   hunter,   trapper,   fur   trader 
and    guide.      Discovered    Great    Salt    Lake 
1824,  the  South  Pass  1827.    Visited  Yellow- 
stone   Lake   and    Geysers    1830.      Founded 


Fort  Bridger  1843.  Opened  Overland 
Route  by  Bridger's  Pass  to  Great  Salt 
Lake.  Was  guide  for  U-  S.  exploring  ex- 
peditions, Albert  Sidney  Johnston's  army 
in  1857  and  G.  M.  Dodge  in  U.-  P.  surveys 
and  Indian  campaigns  1865-1866. 
This  monument  is  erected  as  a  tribute  to 

his    pioneer    work    by    Major    Gen.    G.    M. 

Dodge: 

THE  ONLY  LIFE  OF  THE  FAMOUS 
TRAPPER 
A  very  important  (and  scarce)  narrative, 
by  his  friend,  Gen.  Dodge.  Privately  printed 
and  none  for  sale.  Printed  for  Friends  this 
work  has  passed  entirely  away  and  is  today 
one  of  the  very  "Hard"  works  to  find. 


GIRLHOOD  RECOLLECTIONS 

OF  LARAMIE  IN  1870  AND  1871 

"We  shall  not  travel  by  the  road  we  make, 
Ere,  day  by  day,  the  sound  of  many  feet 

Is  heard  upon  the  stones  that  now  we  break 
We  shall  be  come  to  where  the  cross-roads 
meet. 

For  them  the  shade  of  trees  that  now  we 

plant 
The    safe,    smooth    journey    and    the    final 

goal, 
Yea,  birthright  in  the  land  of  covenant — 
For  us  day  labor;   travail  of  the  soul. 

And  yet — the  road  is  ours  as  never  theirs! 

Is  not  one  joy  on  us  alone  bestowed? 
For  us  the  Master-Joy,  O  Pioneer: 

We    shall    not    travel    but    we    make    the 
Road." 

— Friedlander. 

It  seems  only  a  very  short  time  ago  yet 
five  decades  have  passed  since  that  memor- 
able tenth  day  of  June,  1870,  at  about  two 
p.  m. — and  a  gloriously  bright,  sunny  day 
it  was,  when  our  family  of  eight  members 
arrived  in  Laramie.  We  came  for  a  visit 
but  that  visit  has  proven  a  sojourn  of  more 
than  fifty-three  years  on  my  part.  I  am  the 
only  member  ot  the  family  whose  lot  has 
been  cast  on  the  crest  of  the  wonderful  Rocky 
Mountains;  I  alone  am  left  to  tell  what  to 
me  is  a  most  interesting  experience. 

My  father,  Luther  Fillmore,  and  my  only 
brother,  Millard  Fillmore,  had  preceded  us; 
my  father  about  two  years  before  and  my 
brother  a  few  months.  Fiesh  from  college 
and  just  past  twenty-one  my  brother  came 
and  plunged  boldly  into  a  very  tragic  ex- 
perience which  hurried  our  coming.  After 
being  here  a  week  or  so  my  brother  for  some 
reason  was  sent  out  over  the  Union  Pacific 
Railroad  as  a  special  conductor.  He  was  to 
make  only  the  one  trip — and  a  memorable 
one  it  was.  A  few  miles  east  of  Fort  Steele 
at  a  station  I  think  then  called  St.  Mary's, 
two  soldiers  who  had  been  out  hunting  and 
tired  of  walking  got  on  the  train  to  go  to 
Ft.  Steele.  One  of  them  had  money  enough 
to  pay  his  fare,  the  other  had  none  and  was 
told  he  could  not  ride,  so  the  train  wa^ 
stopped  and  he  was  put  off.  My  brother  and 
the   soldier   friend   stood   looking   out   of   the 


door  window  of  the  car,  my  brother  in  front, 
when  the  soldier  from  the  outside  fired 
through  the  door  shooting  my  brother 
through  the  thigh,  making  a  flesh  wound. 
The  same  bullet  passed  into  the  body  of  the 
soldier  friend,  killing  him  instantly.  The 
train  was  quickly  run  to  Ft.  Steele  where 
my  brother  was  taken  to  the  Army  Hospital 
until  he  recovered. 

One  day  I  was  standing  with  my  brother 
on  the  hotel  platform  when  a  fine  looking 
man  came  along.  I  asked  who  he  was  and 
was  told  that  he  was  Judge  Brown,  the  law- 
yer who  defended  the  soldier  that  shot  my 
brother.  I  immediately  said,  "I  never  want 
to  meet  him."  Strange  to  say  in  about  four 
years'  time  I  married  that  very  man  and  we 
are  expecting  to  celebrate  our  golden  wed- 
ding next  year. 

I  have  realized  more  and  more  as  the 
years  have  passed  what  a  trying  ordeal  it 
was  for  my  dear  mother  to  come  out  to  this 
strange  and  new  country,  almost  fearing  she 
might  have  to  make  it  her  home,  and  I, 
fearing  we  might  not.  The  pioneer  blood 
of  ancestors  was  coursing  through  my  veins 
and  I  longed  for  adventure.  Coming  from 
an  old  aristocratic  town,  as  old  as  Philadel- 
phia, it  was  quite  remarkable  that  conditions 
in  this  new  country  pleased  and  satisfied  my 
father,  my  brother  and  myself.  My  three 
sisters  were  too  young  to  care  about  the 
change.  Of  course  we  were  lonely  many 
times  but  I  can  truly  say  I  have  never  felt 
regret.  There  were  no  trees  or  flowers  to 
greet  us  and  we  missed  them  more  than  I 
can  tell,  but  we  had  the  wonderful  moun- 
tains and  beautiful  hills  to  behold.  I  had 
seen  great  mountains  but  never  such  hills. 
They  were  a  constant  source  of  wonder  and 
delight  and  I  can  say  after  fifty-three  years 
of  acquaintance  with  them  they  have  never 
lost  their  pristine  beauty  to  me.  I  truly  be- 
lieve much  of  my  happiness  and  joy  have 
come  from  lifting  my  eyese  unto  them.  We 
went  on  a  picnic  to  them  a  short  time  after 
we  arrived.  We  went  in  government  ambul- 
ances with  an  escort  of  soldiers  and  had  a 
beautiful  day.  I  forget  the  members  of  that 
oarty  excepting  one,  Mr.  Joseph  Cornell,  the 
Episcopal  clergyman.  I' suppose  I  remember 
him  because  of  a  lapsus  linguae  he  made.  I 
asked  him  why  we  were  so  long  getting  to 
the  hills,  they  seemed  so  near.  He  said, 
"The  reason  is,  that  the  'lead  devil'  of  the 
plains  causes  them  to  seem  nearer  than  they 
really  are."  Of  course  he  meant  'dead, 
level,'  every  one  laughed  and  so  did  I,  im- 
moderately. A  girl  of  sixteen  can  see  almost 
too  much  fun  in  things. 

We  were  always  afraid  of  meeting  Indians 
somewhere  but  we  never  did.  In  fact,  I  have 
never  seen  one  in  or  near  Laramie  excepting 
those  who  have  come  with  exhibitions  or 
some  sort.  There  was  an  Indian  scare  soon 
after  we  came  at  Lookout  Station.  The  In- 
dians came  into  the  place  consisting  of  a  tele- 
graph station  and  section  house.  No  one 
was  home  so  the  visitors  did  all  the  mischief 
they  could,  pouring  molasses  into  the  feather 
beds  and  emptying  all  the  groceries  they  did 
not  want  over  the  floor.  The  people  living 
in  small  places  like  Lookout  had  cellars  or 


v\ 


father  tunnels  concealed  into  which  they 
could  hide,  something  like  the  cyclone  cell.irs 
people  have  nowadays. 

The  mountains  at  the  west  of  us  were  ma- 
jestic and  glorious.  The  wonder  and  beauty 
of  the  Laramie  Plains  have  ever  increased 
to  me  until  now  I  am  not  happy  away  from 
them.  I  recall  how  beautifully  green  they 
were  when  I  first  saw  them  and  when  I  first 
rode  over  them  and  saw  the  thousands  of 
head  of  cattle — one  time  five  thousand  head 
together,  my  wonder  was  alm6st  beyond  me. 

The  antelope  we  saw  at  that  time  in  large 
herds  were  a  magnificent  sight.  They  were 
graceful  and  beautiful.  The  prairie  dogs 
were  new  to  us,  their  little  villages  seemed 
everywhere.  1  was  always  looking  for  the 
little  owl  and  rattlesnake  I  had  heard  bur- 
rowed with  them;  but  I  never  saw  them  tho 
I  know  they  did  all  live  together  in  the  early 
history  of  this  country.  The  antelope  I  had 
seen  before  for  we  owned  two  in  our  home 
in  Pennsylvania — Bill  and  Eliza  great  pets 
that  my  father  brought  to  us  on  his  first 
visit  home  from  this  country.  They  became 
so  domesticated  they  would  do  all  sorts  of 
things  for  us.  They  rather  be  fed  from  our 
hands  than  other  other  way.  People  were 
a.b>Yays  coming  to  see  them  but  they  were 
very'  exclusive  and  knew  only  our  family. 
They  were  very  funny  when  we  would  tie 
a  straw  hat  on  Bill  and  a  shaker  on  Eliza, 
immediately  they  would  trot  proudly  off  to 
make  us  laugh  and  run  after  them.  Over 
fields  and  brooks  we  would  fly  and  then  all 
lie  down  together  to  rest.  We  felt  very  sad 
to  give  them  up.  Father  presented  them  to 
Governor  Packer  of  Pennsylvania  for  his 
beautiful  private  park.  I  always  felt  so  sorry 
when  I  saw  the  beautiful  herds  of  them  that 
Eliza  and  Bill  had  ever  been  taken  from  their 
native  haunts.  To  see  them  in  such  mini 
jers  and  so  beautiful  seemed  like  a  fain- 
tale  come  true.  Fortunately  the  Fillmore 
:amily  were  all  lovers  of  nature.  Every- 
thing we  saw  here  seemed  to  us  the  very 
iesire  of  our  hearts. 

I  recall  our  first  visit  to  the  Hutton  and 
Msop  ranches.  It  was  at  the  time  of  the 
summer  round-up  and  such  a  sicht  as  that 
,vas.  I  remember  Mr.  Edward  Creighton  of 
Dmaha  was  one  of  our  party.  It  was  through 
him  I  believe  that  Mr.  Hutton  began  the 
business  of  cattle  raising.  At  that  time  the 
jreed  of  cattle  here  was  entirely  Texas — 
:heir  long,  wide  spreading  horns  were  very 
hreatening.  They  stood  in  groups  curiously 
ooking  at  us.  I  never  felt  comfortable  near 
:hem.  I 'expected  them  to  start  running  at 
is.  If  they  ever  had  it  would  have  been 
?ood-bye  to  us. 

The  first  visit  to  Mr.  Hutton's  ranch  was 
vonderful  but  the  next  one  was  even  more 
;o  for  we  found  out  what  ranch  life  really 
vas  in  those  days.  When  Governor  Camp- 
>ell  and  his  lovely  Washington  bride  came 
hey  were  taken  out  to  visit  Mr.  Hutton's 
anch.  I  was  invited  to  be  one  of  the  party. 
i  felt  quite  like  an  old  timer — 'sour  dough' 
hey  call  them  in  Alaska  —  showing  Mrs. 
Campbell  about  the  place.  I  remember  she 
isked  me  a  great  many  questions.  I  think 
[    answered    them   all    satisfactorily    and    felt 


quite  puffed  up  with  pride.  Finally  Mrs. 
Campbell  said,  "I  wonder  if  we  could  have 
a  glass  of  milk?"  I  said,  "Oh,  yes,  of 
course."  I  found  Mr.  Hutton  and  asked  him 
if  we  might  have  some  milk  and  bread.  I 
never  will  forget  his  astonished  gaze  when 
he  said,  "Milk?  Why  we  never  have  milk  or 
bread.  We  always  have  biscuit.  Go  and 
see  if  there  are  not  some  cold  ones  in  the 
cupboard."  We  went  on  a  voyage  of  dis- 
covery. All  we  found  was  halt  of  an  un- 
cooked ham.  We  both  exclaimed  "Old  Moth- 
er Hubbard."  I  asked  Mr.  Hutton  why  they 
never  had  milk  with  thousands  of  cows 
around.  Surprised  at  me  again  he  said,  "We 
never  have  time  to  milk  a  cow.  And  besides 
the  calves  must  have  all  the  milk  there  is." 
There  were  a  number  of  men  standing  and 
lying  in  the  shade  of  the  corrals.  After  a 
good  dinner  they  were  resting.  The  cooks 
were  in  the  bunk  house  asleep.  Air.  Hutton 
insisted  upon  calling  them  and  having  a  din- 
ner cooked  for  us  but  we  would  not  hear  to 
it.  After  that  time  we  always  took  our  own 
lunch  basket  with  us  for  we  learned  the  busi- 
ness of  a  ranch  in  those  days  was  raising 
cattle  and  nothing  else.  Ranching  was  then 
in  its  infancy.  Women  were  rarely  seen 
about  at  all.  Today,  ranches  have  become 
lovely  country  homes— some  of  then)  almost 
luxurious. 

Mr.  Hutton  was  a  peculiar  man  and  a 
most  unique  and  original  one.  He  was  as 
interesting  to  us  children  as  Santa  Clans. 
He  and  my  father  became  very  dear  friends. 
His  presence  in  our  home  was  always  hailed 
with  delight.  He  was  one  of  the  very  bright 
spots  in  our  new  life  and  was  as  unusual  as 
the  many  other  things  we  had  met.  He 
truly  belonged  to  the  Laramie  Plains.  He 
was  a  part  of  them.  If  his  business  ability 
had  been  half  equal  to  his  good  humor  and 
kindness  of  heart  he  might  have  been  a  great 
cattle  king.  I  doubt  if  any  man  ever  had  a 
better  opportunity.  I  shall  never  forget  his 
merry  laugh  and  twinkling  blue  eye  or  the 
splendid  philosophy  of  his  life  which  was 
enough  to  make  him  envied.  It  never  seem- 
ed right  to  me  that  he  died  a  poor  man. 
Some  one  said  to  me  in  the  early  days  that 
Charlie  Hutton  was  his  own  enemy  and  the 
only  one  he  had.  I  hope  some  one  who 
knew  him  better  than  a  young  girl  could 
write  a  sketch  of  his  life.  I  know  that  he 
came  out  here  from  Iowa  before  the  Union 
Pacific  Railroad  was  built  and  was  employed 
in  building  the  Western  Union  Telegraph 
line. 

Dr.  Latham  was  also  a  most  interesting 
character  whom  I  re.call,  of  the  early  days. 
He  was  a  tall,  erect  person  and  was  the 
Union  Pacific  surgeon  in  charge  of  the  hos- 
pital here.  He  was  full  of  antedotes  and  a 
charming  talker,  a  man  of  culture  and  edu- 
cation. He  and  his  lovely  wile  helped  us  to 
be  happy  many  times  after  the  novelty  of  ar- 
riving was  over.  He  too  is  a  man  who  could 
be  well  written  up.  Years  after  lie  left  here 
I  met  him  in  California.  He  was  then  man- 
aging Mrs.  Hurst's  large  estate.  Previous 
to  that,  after  leaving  here,  he  held  some  im- 
portant  educational  commission  in  Japan. 

We  lived  for  some  time  at  the  Union   Pa- 


cific  Hotel  and  enjoyed  it  very  much  for  the 
proprietor,  Mr.  Philo  Rumsey  and  his  sons, 
Captain  Henry  Rumsey  and  James,  or  Jim 
as  we  called  him,  did  everything  possible  to 
make  us  feel  at  home.  We  have  always  felt 
very  grateful  to  them.  Mr.  Henry  Rumsey's 
wife  was  a  most  charming  woman,  one  I 
shall  never  forget.  Edith,  the  sister  of  Henry 
and  James,  was  near  my  own  age,  though 
much  more  sophisticated  than  I.  My  life 
had  been  spent  in  a  quiet,  Quaker  town, 
and  school.  I  had  never  been  out  in  society 
and  Edith,  it  seemed  to  me,  had  always  been 
in  society.  She  had  quite  a  charm  of  man- 
ner and  we  were  good  chums.  The  other 
girls  of  my  acquaintance  in  the  early  days 
were  Alice  Harper  (Mrs.  Robert  Marsh)  and 
her  sister,  Nellie  (Mrs.  John  Gunster),  Eva 
Owen  (.Mrs.  Stephen  Downey),  and  her  sis- 
ter Etta  (Mrs.  Roach),  Hattie  Andrews 
(Mrs.  Phillips),  Cora  Andrews  (Mrs.  Brees), 
Ella  Galbraith  (Mrs.  Charles  Stone),  and 
Minnie  Arnold  (Mrs.  Eurgens),  and  Maggie 
Ivinson  (Mrs.  Crow).  I  also  recall  Nellie 
Hilton  (Mrs.  Locke).  Her  father  was  a  phy- 
sician, also  a  Methodist  preacher. 

One  of  my  very  early  recollections  is  of 
two  beautiful  brides  calling  upon  us,  both 
gorgeously  attired.  Their  distinct  types  in- 
terested me.  Mrs.  Donnellan  was  a  hand- 
some brunette  and  Mrs.  Abbott  a  perfect 
blonde.  I  remember  in  detail  just  how  they 
looked  and  fascinated  me.  They  both  be- 
came very  dear  friends  of  mine  in  later 
years. 

One  of  the  very  interesting  events  of  our 
first  summer  was  seeing  several  trainloads 
of  Chinamen  pass  through  Lraamie.  They 
stopped  long  enough  to  cook  their  rice  which 
took  them  an  incredably  short  time.  We 
watched  them  with  great  curiosity  and  inter- 
est. When  the  train  stopped  almost  instant- 
ly the  cooks  jumped  from  different  cars 
along  the  train  with  large  kettles.  They 
quickly  built  fires  and  boiled  water  into  which 
they  poured  quantities  of  rice  and  it  seemed 
no  time  until  those  kettles  were  filled  to 
overflowing  with  large  kernels  of  cooked  rice. 
Then  out  of  the  cars  came  forth  swarms  of 
Chinamen  all  sizes,  each  with  his  bowl  and 
chop-sticks.  They  were  served  with  all  they 
could  eat  and  how  quickly  they  did  eat  it! 
The  chop-sticks  played  a  tune,  and  how  they 
all  jabbered  at  once  all  the  time.  They  soon 
began  piling  pack  into  the  cars  and  seemed 
like  a  swarm  of  bees.  Finally  all  was  quiet 
and  the  cooks  cleaned  out  their  kettles  quick- 
ly and  jumped  onto  the  different  cars  from 
which  they  came  out.  Not  a  word  had  been 
spoken  by  those  cooks  that  I  could  see.  They 
attended  strictly  to  business.  The  discipline 
of  that  occasion  was  truly  marvelous.  After 
they  had  gone  I  could  hardly  realize  what 
I  had  seen.  I  felt  as  if  the  earth  had  turned 
over  and  I  had  seen  China  on  top.  Those 
people  in  their  native  dress  with  their  large 
hats  and  hair  in  nues  were  too  much  for  my 
imagination. 

Those  Chinamen  were  being  taken  to  New 
England  where  they  were  going  to  work  in 
shoe  factories  and  the  men  in  charge  told 
us  they  had  eaten  only  rice  seasoned  with 
salt,    no    sugar   or   butter   or   tea,    from    San 


Francisco  to  Laramie,  and  that  their  oiet 
would  be  the  same  to  the  end  of  their  jour- 
ney in  New  England.  Some  time  after  this 
I  met  Ah  Say,  the  agent  and  interpreter  for 
the  Chinamen  employed  on  the  Union  Pacific 
Railroad.  Ah  Say  was  often  in  our  home  in 
consultation  wjth  my  father.  He  was  a  gen- 
tleman, intelligent,  and  most  interesting  and 
spoke  very  good  English.  He  was  always 
bringing  us  presents  of  Chinese  fruit  and 
nuts  and  very  often  more  costly  and  rare 
gifts.  He  came  one  day  looking  very  happy 
and  said  he  was  soon  to  be  married  and 
wanted  us  to  see  his  wife  some  time.  He 
told  me  rather  quietly  that  she  was  a  little- 
footed  woman.  I  suppose  he  did  not  want 
to  boast  too  proudly  of  his  great  fortune  so 
told  only  me  about  it.  I  always  hoped  we 
might  see  Mrs.  Ah  Say  but  it  was  never 
our  good  fortune.  I  believe  they  lived  in 
Evanston  upon  their  return  from  China,  but 
my  father  had  become  a  cattle  man  before 
their  return.  Chinese  were  not  very  long 
employed  after  that  time  but  I  know  they 
served  very  faithfully  and  satisfactorily  while 
they  were  permitted  to  stay. 

We  met  many  noted  people  in  the  summer 
of  1870.  Most  of  them  from  New  England 
who  in  some  way  were  interested  in  the 
Union  Pacific  Railroad  and  were  going  over 
it  to  see  whether  it  was  a  reality  or  a  myth. 
I  recall  one  party  in  particular  which  we 
were  invited  to  join  on  a  trip  to  Salt  Lake 
City.  My  father  and  mother  and  I  went 
with  Colonel  Hammond  in  his  private  car  on 
that  occasion.  Colonel  Hammond  was  an 
officer  of  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad.  Our 
party  consisted  of  Colonel  and  Mrs.  Ham- 
mond, Dr.  and  Mrs.  Hurd  of  Galesburg,  Il- 
linois, and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Meade  of  Quincy, 
Illinois.  We  had  a  wonderful  time,  the  whole 
trip  particularly  through  Echo  and  Webber 
Canons  was  interesting  to  us  all.  When  we 
arrived  at  Salt  Lake  City,  Brigham  Young 
gave  a  reception  to  the  party  and  we  were 
taken  about  the  city  in  royal  style.  In  the 
evening  we  attended  the  theater  and  saw 
Brigham  Young  come  in  with  all  his  wives 
(it  was  said).  I  really  think  all  nineteen 
were  there.  The  husband  looked  perfectly 
composed  and  the  wives  not  at  all  discon- 
certed. The  play  I  forgot  all  about  but  the 
circumstances  attending  it  I  never  can,  they 
were  too  unique.  I  had  always  thought  of 
Brigham  Young  as  sort  of  a  Bluebeard  but 
after  seeing  his  kindly  face  and  pleasant 
smile  concluded  that  he  was  just  trying  to 
be  another  King  Solomon.  I  have  made 
many  trips  to  Salt  Lake  City  since  but  the 
thrill  of  the  first  visit  has  never  been  eclipsed. 

Laramie  was  a  queer  looking  place  in  the 
early  days,  no  trees  or  flowers,  but  one  thing 
it  did  have  that  was  most  attractive  was  clear, 
running  water  along  either  side  of  the  streets 
much  like  the  beautiful  brooks  at  home.  On 
a  quiet  night  one  could  hear  their  merry 
ripple.  Most  people  used  the"  water  from 
them  for  ordinary  purposes  but  for  drinking 
we  had  water  brought  from  the  river  which 
was  quite  expensive.  People  often  sank  bar- 
rels in  the  ditches  and  so  had  a  quantity  to 
dip  from  but  those  barrels  were  very  treach- 
erous on  a  dark  night,  one  was  liable  to  step 


lto  them.  My  sister-in-law,  in  getting  out 
f  a  carriage  one  night  very  agilely  jumped 
ight  into  one.  The  worst  of  it  was  she  had 
n  a  beautiful  new  gown  her  mother  had 
ent  her  from  Philadelphia.  She  was  a  sorry 
ight  when  we  got  her  out,  and  her  new 
own  completely  ruined.  I  often  got  my 
let  wet  stepping  into  the  ditches  but  never 
ot  into  a  barrel.  There  were  no  sidewalk? 
d  guide  one  and  the  ditches  were  level  with 
he  streets  so  it  was  quite  a  feat  to  keep  out 
f  the  water.  I  often  wonder  now  how 
lothers  ever  kept  their  children  out  of  those 
ttractive  ditches  for  there  were  no  fences 
round  the  shacks  of  houses  people  lived  in. 

The  houses  had  tent  backs  and  pretentious 
rame  fronts,  something  like  the  ones  I  heard 
Sishop  Robert  Mclntyre  describe  as  houses 
/ith  Queen  Anne  fronts  and  Mary  Anne 
acks.  They  were  certainly  unique  and  in- 
eresting. 

The  second  week  after  our  arrival  I  met 
At.  F.  L.  Arnold,  the  Presbyterian  minister. 
ie  called  to  know  if  I  would  play  the  organ 
or  him  the  next  day.  He  was  to  hold  ser- 
ices  at  the  school  house  which  was  the 
aeeting  place  alternate  Sundays  for  the 
/Tethodists,  Baptists,  and  Presbyterians.  I 
aid  no,  I'd  rather  not.  I  was  such  a  stranger 
ie'.4  Jjetter  find  some  one  else,  and  he  very 
litifully  said,  "My  dear  child,  there  is  no 
Ime  else  to  find,  for  there  is  no  one  here  who 
Ivill  play  for  me."  My  dear  father  was  pres- 
ent and  said,  "Yes,  she  will  play  for  you. 
She  must  do  her  part  in  this  new  country 
ind  that  is  one  thing  she  can  do."  So  I 
hustered  up  courage  like  a  dutiful  child  and 
lid  my  part.  I  finally  ended  by  playing  at 
.11  the  services  of  each  denomination  that  1 
lave  mentioned.  They  also  had  a  union 
Sunday  School  for  which  I  sang  and  played 
or  I  always  had  to  do  both.  When  the  dif- 
erent  churches  were  built  I  played  at  the 
ledication  of  each  one.  Mr.  Arnold  became 
me  of  the  dearest  friends  of  my  life  and  my 
nemory  of  him  is  most  sacred.  One  Sun- 
Jay  after  church  he  asked  me  to  go  with 
lim  to  sing  at  Fiddler  Bill's  funeral.  We 
;tarted  off,  he  with  his  Bible  and  I  with  my 
rlymn  Book.  We  went  to  a  little  shack 
lirty  and  miserable  in  every  way.  The  house 
vas  crowded  to  overflowing  with  the  flot- 
sam and  jetsam  of  the  town.  I  had  never 
;een  or  heard  of  such  looking  people  both 
nen  and  women,  blear  eyed  and  sodden.  Mr. 
\rnold  stood  just  outside  the  door  and  made 
i  beautiful  talk  to  those  poor  people.  I  sat 
)Utside  on  a  sawbuck  with  a  board  laid 
icross  it  and  sang  several  times,  too  often 
>ut  Mr.  Arnold  said  afterwards  he  thought 
the  singing  would  do  them  more  good  than 
vhat  he  could  say.  I  recall  how  miserably 
[  felt  because  I  was  too  dressed  up.  I 
ipologized  to  Mr.  Arnold  for  being  so  un- 
suitably dressed.  (No  doubt  my  sub-con- 
scious mind  had  suggested  sack  cloth  and 
ishes  for  that  occasion.)  Mr.  Arnold  and 
[  had  many  experiences  similar  to  that  one 
DUt  none  that  ever  impressed  me  more  ser- 
ously. 

Mr.  D.  J.  Pearce,  the  Baptist  minister, 
;ame  later  in  June.  Mr.  Pearce  was  a  re- 
markable   man,    most   industrious    and    earn- 


est. He  soon  built  a  church  on  the  site  of 
the  present  attractive  one  and  opened  a 
school  in  the  basement.  He  called  his  school 
Wyoming  University.  He  was  ably  assisted 
in  his  work  by  his  young  wife  and  their 
school  was  a  great  credit  to  Laramie.  I  was 
a  member  of  their  Latin  class,  Mr.  C.  P. 
Arnold  was  also  a  member.  If  there  were 
others  I  do  not  now  recall  them.  Mr.  Pearce 
was  a  man  of  vision.  He  told  me  our  beau- 
tiful University  of  Wyoming  of  which  our 
state  is  so  justly  proud  would  stand  just 
where  it  does.  There  was  a  cemetery  there 
then.  I  said,  "Impossible,  Mr.  Pearce.  It 
is  Laramie's  cemetery."  He  replied,  "You 
will  live  to  see  that  moved  farther  up  the 
hill."  So  I  have.  I  often  wish  Mr.  Pearce 
could  have  lived  to  see  our  present  Univer- 
sity and  be  able  to  dream  with  us  its  great 
future. 

Mr.  Brooks,  the  Methodist  minister,  soon 
came  and  took  charge  of  the  Methodist  ser- 
vices. He  was  a  young  unmarried  man,  won- 
derfully active  and  insisted  upon  very  am- 
bitious music.  Since  I  was  the  only  person 
so  far  who  could  or  would  play  and  sing  it 
was  rather  hard  on  me.  I  never  can  under- 
stand why  the  people  in  Laramie  would  not 
sing  in  those  days.  I  often  shed  tears  over 
it.  I  believe  people  finally  felt  sorry  for  me 
for  they  did  find  their  voices  and  helped  me 
all  they  could. 

Right  here  I  wish  to  subscribe  a  tribute 
to  a  Mr.  Crancall.  He  was  a  painter  and  a 
hard  working  man  but  when  he  could  he 
always  came  and  helped  me  at  the  Sunday 
services.  He  had  a  good  voice  and  quite  an 
understanding  of  music. 

I  remember  Chaplain  McCabe  sang  at  the 
dedication  of  the  Methodist  Church.  I  as- 
sisted him.  He  had  a  wonderful  voice  and 
rejoiced  my  heart  for  he  was  the  first  singer 
I  had  heard  since  coming  to  Laramie.  I 
+hink  Bishop  McCabe  preached  the  dedi- 
catory sermon.  I  am  not  quite  sure  about 
this,  any  way  I  heard  him  preach  in  the 
new  church  and  recall  his  powerful  sermon 
and  wonderful  stories.  I  also  heard  Bishop 
Joyce  in  the  old  Methodist  church.  He  was 
one  of  the  most  saintly  looking  men  I  have 
ever  seen,  also  I  think  the  tnost  powerful 
preacher  I  have  ever  heard.  Methodist  bish- 
ops have  always  impressed  me  as  being 
great  preachers. 

Rev.  Joseph  Cornell  of  the  Episcopal 
church  was  here  when  we  came  and  the 
church  built.  My  father  often  wrote  us  how 
he  was  helping  to  dance  the  roof  on  the  new 
Episcopal  church.  Not  being  a  dancing  man 
we  always  laughed  about  his  help.  But  our 
dear  friend  Mrs.  Ivinson  told  me  that  she 
had  gotten  father  to  take  a  few  steps.  Now 
we  have  the  beautiful  Cathedral  standing 
near  the  site  of  the  little  old  church  of  the 
early  days. 

The  Catholic  church  was  also  built  when 
we  came  and  is  the  only  one  so  far  that  has 
not  been  rebuilt.  Father  Cusson  was  in 
charge  of  it.  He  was  a  Frenchman  and  a 
man  the  whole  town  respected  and  loved. 
Laramie  was  a  good  town  and  striving  up- 
ward all  the  time.  The  churches  and  the 
schools   showed   their   influence. 


Mr.  Harrington  was  the  principal  of  the 
public  school;  and  my  father  was  a  member 
of  the  School  Board.  The  building  has  been 
transformed  into  Root's  Opera  House  and 
stands  on  the  same  site  where  it  was  erected. 
I  think  in  some  way  it  should  always  be  kept 
as  a  memorial  to  the  early  work  it  was  priv- 
ileged  to   begin. 

It  is  true  there  was  still  many  saloons  and 
gambling  places  left  in  Laramie.  It  was  a 
common  thing  to  hear  some  one  call  out 
loudly  something  about  a  key.  It  seemed  to 
me  sometimes  like  a  song  a  man  was  sing- 
ing inside  the  building  but  I  soon  learned  it 
was  a  game  they  played  called  Keno.  But 
those  days  did  not  last  long.  Public  senti- 
ment required  at  least  more  quiet  in  the 
places  that  were  onse   so  open  and  noisy. 

The  terrible  days  of  lynching  were  past 
though  I'm  sorry  to  say  two  cases  have  oc- 
curred since  that  time  that  I  remember,  but 
the  early  cases  were  before  our  time. 

The  first  large  party  of  my  life  was  one 
given  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Ivinson  shortly  after 
our  arrival.  It  was  a  great  event  to  me  and 
I  recall  it  as  a  very  beautiful  one.  I  have 
attended  a  great  many  parties  given  by  these 
same  dear  friends  in  the  past  fifty-three  years 
in  more  spacious  and  costly  surroundings  but 
none  more  beautiful  to  me  than  that  first 
one  in  1870  when  they  lived  over  and  back 
of  their  store.  After  all  it  is  what  we  put 
into  our  hospitality  of  our  very  selves  that 
seems  to  count  most.  My  mother  became 
somewhat  reconciled  to  her  exile  in  Laramie 
and  gave  the  second  large  party  of  my  re- 
membrance in  honor  of  my  brother  and  his 
bride. 

There  were  plenty  of  social  affairs.  It 
kept  one  quite  busy  attending  them.  I  re- 
call a  reception  given  by  the  young  men  of 
Laramie  in  honor  of  Governor  Campbell  and 
his  bride  which  could  not  have  been  outdone 
by  any  one  anywhere.  Those  young  men 
were  wonders  particularly  when  they  gave 
parties.  Colonel  Downey,  Colonel  Donnel- 
lan,  Mr.  Ora  Haley,  Mr.  Charles  Wagner, 
and  Judge  Brown  were  the  moving  spirits. 
Social  life  in  Laramie  as  I  knew  it  was  of 
high  and  lofty  character  in  those  early  days 
and  my  remembrances  of  it  all  are  most  de- 
lightful and  happy. 

In  August  of  1870  mv  father  decided  that 
we  had  better  remain  -1  year  at  least  and 
occpuy  a  new  house  the  Railroad  Company 
had  built  for  him  if  he  desired  it,  or  in  other 
words  could  persuade  his  family  to  remain. 
The  house  was  a  commodious  one  painted 
white.  It  is  still  standing  where  it  was  built 
on  the  north  side  of  Fremont  and  Second 
street. 

When  we  were  finally  settled  in  our  house 
we  were  very  comfortable  and  most  of  us 
happy.  I  wanted  a  piano  very  much.  The 
story  of  how  I  got  it  is  to  me  very  interest- 
ing and  I  think  worth  relating.  A  merchant 
in  Laramie  saw  an  advertisement  in  a  New 
York  paper  of  what  he  thought  were  toy 
pianos  selling  at  nine  dollars  and  seventy- 
five  cents.  He  (good  friend  of  mine)  sent 
for  two  to  be  sent  immediately  by  express. 
The  firm  sent  one  but  advised  having  the 
other  one  shipped  by  freight.     The  one  that 


came  by  express  instead  of  being  nine  dollars 
and  seventy-five  cents  was  nine  hundred  and 
seventy-five  dollars  with  express  charges.  My 
father  bought  the  instrument  for  seven  hun- 
dred dollars.  I  knew  nothing  about  it  until 
one  day  I  came  home  from  a  visit  I  had 
been  sent  to  make  and  found  a  beautiful 
piano  in  our  home.  My  joy  knew  no  bounds, 
it  was  to  me  almost  a  miracle. 

When  Mr.  Sidney  Dillon  who  was  an  old 
friend  of  my  father's  became  president  of 
the  Union  Pacific  Railroad  he  persuaded  fa- 
ther to  come  with  him  and  help  him  in  some 
plans  he  had  for  the  reconstruction  of  the 
road.  Father  had  suffered  a  serious  break- 
down in  health  during  the  Civil  War  and  a 
change  had  been  recommended  for  him  by 
our  dear  old  family  physician,  Dr.  Reeves 
Jackson,  (who  by  the  way  is  the  Doctor 
Mark  Twain  in  his  "Innocents  Abroad" 
writes  of  so  humorously)  so  he  with  Mr. 
Dillon  recommended  the  high  mountain 
country  as  the  very  best  possible  change  that 
could  be  made.  Father  liked  the  idea  of  go- 
ing west  so  in  a  very  short  time  he  was  off 
for  what  became  his  abiding  place  for  sev- 
eral years. 

Here  he  regained  his  health  and  was  very 
happy  particularly  after  he  became  the  owner 
of  a  ranch  and  cattle.  Mr.  J.  J.  Albright, 
an  old  time  friend  of  father's  from  Scranton, 
Pennsylvania,  became  his  partner  in  the 
cattle  business.  Mr.  Harry  Albright,  his  son, 
came  out  with  his  charming  family  to  "ssist 
father.  Together  they  had  a  very  successful 
and  pleasant  experience,  but  the  cold  winters 
and  exposure  told  on  father's  health  again 
and  he  was  obliged  to  seek  the  more  con- 
genial climate  of  California. 

If  this  simple  story  of  mine  will  interest 
the  readers  of  the  Historical  Bulletin  I  am 
very  happy  in  having  told  it  for  them  as 
well  as  for  my  grandchildren,  for  whom  it 
was  originallv  intended. 


IN  RETROSPECT 


I  came  to  Cheyenne  in  November,  1873. 
My  health  was  very  poor  and  my  mother 
had  to  take  me  out  of  school  and  our  family 
physician  said,  I  had  to  be  sent  to  another 
climate  and  mother  said,  the  only  place  she 
could  send  me,  was  Cheyenne,  Wyoming; 
as  she  had  a  sister  living  there.  Cheyenne 
was  then  a  town  of  two  or  three  thousand 
inhabitants  and  it  was  called  the  "Magic  City 
of  the  Plains,"  as  it  was  started  in  the  sum- 
mer of  1867  and  my  Uncle  M.  E.  Post  came 
then,  with  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad  and 
my  Aunt  Mrs.  Post  came  in  the  spring  of 
1868.  A  house  was  built  and  ready  for  her 
to  go  into,  where  the  Stockgrowers  Bank 
now  stands,  on  17th  and  Hill  streets,  now 
Capitol  Avenue.  Mr.  Post  had  a  book  store 
when  I  first  came  and  later  on  was  in  the 
sheep  and  banking  business  and  was  delegate 
to  Congress  from  1881  to  1885.  He  now 
lives  in  Los  Angeles,  California.  Mrs.  Post 
was  prominent  in  the  work  of  the  city  and 
when  the  Second  Legislature  assembled,  De- 
cember, 1871,  she  and  my  mother,  Mrs.  A. 
P.  Kilborune,  who  was  visiting  here  at  that 
time  went  to  Governor  Campbell   (first  gov- 


;rnor  of  Wyoming  Territory)  and  asked  him 
:o  veto  the  bill,  for  the  repeal  of  Woman 
Suffrage,  which  came  up  at  that  time  and  he 
iid  so  and  we  have  had  Woman  Suffrage 
since  1869.  Wc  are  the  first  Territory  and 
State  to  have  Universal  Suffrage,  in  the 
United  States  or  perhaps  in  the  world.  Chey- 
itne  was  a  gay  little  town,  when  I  came 
lere  and  I  enjoyed  it  very  much.  We  used 
to  have  our  best  parties  in  the  Railroad 
House,  that  burned  down  in  1885  I  think 
1  was.  I  do  not  remember  what  we  wore 
in  those  days,  only  in  one  case.  In  1876, 
ve  had  a  party  in  the  Railroad  House,  (I 
think  it  was)  and  Lulu  David  (now  Mrs.  J. 
Mi.  Carey)  had  just  come  here  and  she  wore 
i  black  silk  skirt,  trimmed  with  white  tarlatan 
flounces  and  a  white  satin  waist,  a  little  low 
necked  and  elbow  sleeves  and  I  also  wore 
i  black  silk  skirt,  trimmed  with  yellow  tar- 
latan flounces  and  a  yellow  satin  waist,  a 
ittle  low-necked  and  elbow  sleeves.  I  do  not 
:hink  we  wore  hoop  skirts  or  bustles  at  that 
time  as  we  did  in  1873  and  1874.  The  styles 
in  skirts  in  1876  were  getting  to  be  very 
:lose,  especially  about  the  hips,  a  pull  back, 
is  they  were  called  later  on. 

The  Pleasant  Hours  Club,  was  always  held, 
n  the  Recreation  Hall,  that  stood  on  the 
:orner  of  18th  and  Eddy  Street  (now  Pio 
teer^-  and  on  the  other  corner,  where  the 
Federal  building  now  stands,  18th  and  Fer- 
guson (now  Carey)  was  the  old  Episcopal 
Church  and  Rectory.  We  did  roller  skat- 
ng  in  Recreation  Hall,  as  well  as  dancing. 
[n  the  fall  of  1875,  my  cousin  Birdie  Parker 
(now  Mrs.  Wastell)  of  Port  Huron,  Mich- 
igan, came  to  visit  our  Aunt  Mrs.  Post  in 
Cheyenne.  So  we  were  together  for  a  year 
md  had  such  good  times.  The  Inter-Ocean 
Hotel  was  opened  with  a  dance  '  the  sum- 
mer of  1875.  It  was  on  the  corner  of  16th 
ind  Hill  Streets  (now  Capitol  and  where 
Harry  Hynd's  block  now  stands.) 

We  had  only  one  school,  when  I  came 
here,  the  old  part  of  what  now  is  called  the 
Central  school.  Some  of  the  older  people 
ire  still  here,  that  were  here  in  1873.  Among 
those  I  remember  are  Judge  J.  M.  Carey, 
Senator  F.  E.  Warren,  Mrs.  Henry  Conway, 
Mrs.  H.  V.  Glafcke,  Mrs.  H.  H.  Ellis,  Mrs. 
Wm.  Myers,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Thomas  Durbin, 
Mrs.  Helpenstine,  Mrs.  Alice  Bainum,  Mrs. 
Ketchem,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  J.  J.  Underwood, 
Larry  Bresnahan  and  Timothy  Dyer.  There 
was  only  one  tree,  when  I  came  here  and 
that  was  in  front  of  H.  V.  Glafcke's  resi- 
dence, corner  of  17th  and  Dodge  Street  (now 
Warren)  and  where  Senator  Warren  lived 
for  so  many  years  but  the  house  was  built 
by  H.  V.  Glafcke.  My  health  became  much 
better  in  this  higher  altitude  and  I  stayed 
here  until  December,  1876,  when  I  went  back 
to  Lexington,  Michigan,  where  I  was  born. 
In  the  meantime  I  became  engaged  to  Mr. 
A.  J.  Parshall.  He  came  to  Cheyenne  from 
Ann  Arbor,  Michigan,  in  1872.  He  was  a 
graduate  of  the  University  of  Michigan  in 
Civil  Engineering  and  went  into  the  Surveyor 
General's  office  as  draftsman  and  later  on  a 
Chief  Clerk,  under  Dr.  Silas  A.  Reed  but 
after  E.  C.  David  became  Surveyor  General, 
in    1876    Mr.    Parshall   lost   his   position    and 


went  to  Custer  City,  Dakota  Territory,  dur- 
ing the  gold  excitement  and  later  on  to  Dead- 
wood,  D.  T.,  where  he  was  in  the  First  Na- 
tional Bank  as  Collector  and  afterwards,  as 
Assistant    Cashier. 

Mother  and  I  came  to  Cheyenne,  the  first 
of  December,  1879,  and  Mr.  Parshall  and  I 
were  married  December  17th,  1879,  in  the 
old  Congregational  Church,  on  the  same  site 
where  it  now  stands,  by  Rev.  C.  M.  Sanders. 
Miss  Rosepha  Pratt  and  Mr.  John  Harring- 
ton were  bridesmaid  and  groomsman.  We 
had  a  reception  at  Air.  and  Mrs.  M.  E. 
Post's  of  seventy-five  guests,  at  eight  o'clock 
in  the  evening.  Champagne  flowed  freely, 
with  other  appetizing  refreshments.  We 
stayed  in  Cheyenne,  until  the  afternoon  of 
the  19th,  when  we  took  the  train  for  Sidney, 
Nebraska,  to  take  the  stage  the  next  morn- 
ing for  Deadwood,  Dakota  Territory,  where 
we  were  to  live.  The  evening  we  were  mar- 
ried, it  was  beautiful  and  a  lovely  moon  but 
when  we  started  from  Sidney,  on  the  20th, 
it  was  cold  and  cloudy  and  that  night,  it  was 
20  degrees  below  zero  and  kept  that  cold  the 
entire  trip.  We  reached  Deadwood  Christ- 
mas eve.  We  traveled  daytimes  and  part 
of  the  nights,  when  the  moon  was  up  and 
we  slept  in  barns  or  anywhere  we  happened 
to  be,  as  we  took  blankets  and  pillows.  It 
was  a  terribly  cold  trip  and  we  were  in  luck, 
to  get  through  alive.  In  May,  1882,  I  thought 
I  would  go  back  to  Michigan  to  visit  my 
mother,  who  was  there  then  and  other  rela- 
tives. My  daughter  (now  Mrs.  C.  J.  Ohn- 
haus)  being  a  baby  it  was  a  very  hard  trip. 
There  were  two  men  in  the  stage  with  me 
and  not  knowing  any  better,  I  said  I  had 
only  paid  my  fare  to  Sidney,  Nebraska.  I 
had  on  my  diamond  engagement  ring  and  a 
watch  with  a  long  gold  chain  around  my 
neck.  We  got  to  Rapid  City,  Dakota  Terri- 
tory, for  supper  and  these  two  men  disap- 
peared and  so  there  was  no  one  in  the  stage 
with  me  when  we  left.  When  we  had  been 
on  our  way  about  one  hour  and  it  was  quite 
dark  some  men  cried  "halt"  and  the  driver 
being  new  to  his  business  (as  the  stages  had 
been  held  up  quite  often  by-road  agents  and 
they  always  halted  when  told  to)  went  on 
and  then  they  shot  twice,  one  bullet  going 
through  the  stage  and  the  other  through  a 
man's  hat  that  sat  with  the  driver  but  we 
got  away  and  so  I  saved  my  ring,  watch 
and  $100.00  in  money.  I  have  always  thought 
that  it  was  those  two  men  that  were  in  the 
stage  with  me  when  we  started. 

When  we  got  to  Sidney,  Nebraska,  after 
three  days  and  two  nights  on  the  road  we 
pulled  up  at  the  hotel  where  the  stage  al- 
ways stopped  and  being  dead  tired  I  had  my 
supper  and  went  right  to  bed.  I  was  awak- 
ened in  the  night  by  a  man  drinking  out  of 
my  pitcher  but  I  wTas  in  such  a  tired  state 
chat  I  must  have  fallen  asleep  again  for  when 
I  looked  up  he  was  standing  right  over  me 
and  then  I  jumped  right  over  the  foot-board 
and  left  my  daughter  in  bed  and  went  down 
to  the  office,  where  a  man  (likely  the  clerk) 
was  sleeping  and  told  him  there  was  a  man 
in  my  room  and  no  keys  to  the  doors,  as 
there  were  two  doors,  one  opening  into  an- 


other  room  (think  the  man  came  out  of  that 
room)  I  told  the  clerk,  he  would  have  to 
bring  his  bed  upstairs  and  sleep  outside  my 
door,  which  he  did.  The  next  morning,  I 
took  the  train  for  Michigan.  My  return  trip 
to  Deadwood  was  uneventful. 

We  came  to  Cheyenne  to  live  in  May, 
1883.  Mr.  Parshall  had  accepted  a  position 
in  the  Banking  House  of  Stebbins  Post  and 
Company  as  assistant  cashier  and  afterwards 
became  cashier.  After  the  bank's  failure  in 
October,  1887,  my  husband  and  F.  E.  War- 
ren were  appointed  assignees  for  the  estate 
and  when  that  was  settled  up,  Mr.  Parshall 
had  a  great  many  offices,  the  last  one  being 
State  Engineer  under  Governor  J.  M.  Carey. 
Mr.  Parshall  discovered  the  Pathfinder  Dam 
site  and  the  site  for  the  present  water  sys- 
tem of  Cheyenne.  He  was  also  a  prominent 
Mason  and  as  Knights  Templar,  was  at  one 
time  Grand  Commander  of  the  State  and  at 
his  death  was  Grand  Recorder  and  had  been 
for  many  years.  He  was  also  a  32  degree 
Mason  and  a  Shriner  and  was  buried  with 
Knight  Templar  honors. 

We  lived  in  different  places  the  first  year 
and  in  1884  we  took  one  of  "Maple  Ter- 
races," the  one  next  to  the  Presbyterian 
Church,  on  18th  street.  They  were  just  com- 
pleted and  were  occupied  by  very  nice  peo- 
ple. We  paid  $55.00  per  month,  which  was 
a  great  price  in  those  days.  We  stayed  there 
until  July,  1887,  when  we  built  the  house, 
I  now  occupy,  2102  Warren  avenue.  My 
husband  passed  away  in  November,  1919.  I 
have  seen  a  great  many  changes  in  all  these 
years,   as   Cheyenne  has  grown  to  be   quite 

ANNIE  K.  PARSHALL. 


Marfa,  Texas,  October  8th,  1923. 
The  State  Historian, 

Cheyenne,  Wyoming. 
Madam: — 

My  friend,  E.  A.  Brininstool  of  Los  An- 
geles, has  sent  me  a  little  circular  issued  by 
your  society,  containing  an  article  by  Phillip 
Ashton  Rollins,  in  which  he  scores  the  film 
companies  for  libeling  the  old  pioneer  by 
screen  portrayals  which  do  not  at  all  con- 
vey to  the  public  the  "real  articles."  As  an 
old  tinier  of  the  Texas  Frontier,  and  an  ex- 
Texas  Ranger  of  six  years'  service,  and  hav- 
ng  passed  through  the  pioneer  stage,  and 
engaged  in  many  battles  with  wild  Indians 
and  still  wilder  white  men,  I  hasten  to  en- 
dorse every  word  Mr.  Rollins  says.  The  film 
companies  are  daily  givii  -  to  the  public  al- 
leged truthful  accounts  of  the  pioneer  times 
which  come  ven'  very  far  from  a  true  repre- 
sentation of  what  the  real  Western  pioneer 
was  like.  Having  been  a  cowboy  in  my 
younger  days  here  in  the  Lone  Star  State, 
and  knowing  range  life  in  its  every  form,  I 
must  say  that  the  real,  old  time  cowpuncher 
came  very  far  from  being  the  rowdy,  tough, 
killer  and  all  around  "bad  man"  which  the 
screen  people  would  have  us  idolize,  and  it  is 
a  shame  and  a  disgrace  to  the  American  'peo- 
ple tha  tthese  screen  representations  of  cow- 
boy life  do  not  come  at  least  somewhere 
near  the  truth. 


I  do  not  believe  there  ever  was  in  any 
section  of  the  country  a  more  chivalrous, 
knightly  and  gentlemanly  set  of  men  tham 
the  average  old  time  cowboy  was.  True,  he 
was  sometimes  inclined  to  be  a  bit  hilarieus 
when  he  struck  a  town,  but  who  can  blame 
him  for  wanting  to  "let  off  steam"  a  little  af- 
ter the  long,  weary,  dreary  weeks  on  the  cat- 
tle trail,  with  little  rest,  nothing  to  break  the 
monotony  and  all  sorts  of  weather  to  con- 
tend with?  But  in  spite  of  that,  the  cowboy 
was  never  known  to  insult  a  lady,  and  any 
old  pioneer  woman  who  has  lived  the  frontier 
life  will  tell  you  that  she  would  rather  trust 
her  own  daughter  in  the  company  of  any 
of  her  husband's  cowboys  than  with  other 
men  who  lived  in  cities  and  went  under  the 
name  of  "gentleman." 

The  pioneer  was  not  "out  for  gore."  He 
did  not  carry  a  rifle  and  six  shooter  from 
choice,  but  from  necessity.  He  was  out  to 
assist  in  civilizing  a  new  country,  and  only 
too  glad  for  the  day  to  arrive  when  he  could 
let  the  rifle  rust  in  the  brackets  and  follow 
the  plow  and  turn  furrows  which  would 
bring   the   golden   erain   into   his   storehouse. 

If  the  history  of  the  West  is  to  be  left  to 
these  film  folks  to  portray  to  the  rising  gen- 
erations, they  will  certainly  "make  a  mess 
of  it."  Let  these  screen  stars  first  read  and 
study  the  lives  of  the  men  who  made  the 
West  before  they  picture  them  in  the  false 
light  which  they  are  now  doing. 

As  an  old  timer,  plainsman,  and  a  Western 
man  who  has  passed  practically  all  my  life 
on  the  frontier,  I  would  like  to  hear  from 
other  men  as  to  what  their  opinion  is  of 
these  so-called  "Western  pictures,"  and  how 
close  to  the  truth  they  think  the  1923  cow- 
puncher — God  help  him! — comes  to  pictur- 
ing the  West  that  was.  Let's  help  "put  the 
kibosh"  on  all  this  Western  slush  which  de- 
picts us  old-timers  as  being  nothing  but  gun- 
fighters  and  ready  to  "have  a  man  for  break- 
fast every  morning." 

Very  truly  yours, 

(Signed)     J.   B.   GILLETT. 


Los   Angeles,   California. 
October  18th,  1923. 
Mrs.  Cyrus  Beard,  State  Historian, 

Cheyenne,  Wyoming. 
Dear  Madam: 

I  have  received  from  your  society  a  small 
pamphlet  called  "Quarterly  Bulletin,"  where- 
in is  printed  a  letter  from  Phillip  Ashton  Rol- 
lins in  which  he  denounces — and  rightly — 
the  moving  picture  companies  for  their 
swash-buckling  presentations  of  the  old  pio- 
neer. 

It  is  high  time  something  was  done  about 
this  base  libel  on  the  old  pioneer.  There  is 
now  being  shown  in  various  cities  of  the  U. 
S.  a  film  depicting  alleged  truthful  represen- 
tation of  the  pioneer  days,  which,  the  com- 
pany says  is  "historically  correct."  In  this 
film  is  a  character  supposed  to  represent  Jim 
Bridger,  the  grandest  old  plainsman  that 
ever  wore  a  moccasin  or  followed  a  trail. 
This  film  depicts  Bridger  as  a  drunken,  dis- 
solute, worthless,  sodden  old  bum  of  the 
worst  sort,  who  can  do  nothing — nor  even 
collect    his    thoughts — unless    he    first    gets 


iway  with  about  a  gallon  of  whisky.  It  is 
;n  outrageous  libel  on  the  character  of  this 
jrand  old  pioneer  and  plainsman,  and  the 
historians  of  the  country,  as  well  as  all  lov- 
;rs  of  HISTORICALLY  CORRECT  fea- 
tures of  the  West,  should  denounce  this  film 
in  no  small  terms.  Jim  Bridger  doubtless 
liked  his  liquor  in  a  moderate  degree,  like 
many  old  plainsmen  of  his  day,  but  he  was 
far  from  being  a  whiskey-soaked  old  bum 
such  as  this  film  depicts  him.  Further,  he 
is  represented  as  having  three  Indian  wives 
at  the  same  time.  This  is  also  an  infamous 
libel,  as  Bridger  never  had  but  one  wife  at 
a  time.  He  married  into  three  different  In- 
dian tribes,  but  he  never  had  more  than  one 
wife  at  a  time.  All  his  children  were  given 
good   educations   at   St.    Louis   convents. 

In  this  film  which  is  alleged  to  be  so  "his- 
torically correct,"  are  many  scenes  which 
are  impossible — so  many  old  timers  who  are 
in  a  position  to  know  have  told  me.  For 
instance,  the  corraling  of  a  long  wagon  train 
at  night  in  the  (supposedly)  Indian  country, 
way  down  at  the  bottom  of  a  blind  canyon, 
surrounded  on  all  sides  by  towering  cliffs, 
from  which  vantage  point  Indians  attack  the 
train,  shooting  down  upon  the  defenseless 
"pioneers"  who  are  completely  at  their  mercy. 
I..-dci,  not  believe  that  any  old  wagon  train 
captain  ever  would  corral  a  train  in  any  such 
idiotic  position  in  the  Indian  country,  when 
high  .ground  would  be  the  proper  place  for 
him  to  seek  if  expecting  to  be  attacked  by 
Indians.  At  no  point  in  this  film  are  any 
guards  stationed  to  prevent  a  night  surprise, 
but  the  emigrants  nightly  gather  around  huge 
bonfires  and  sing,  dance  and  have  a  high 
old  time — a  likely  situation  in  an  Indian  coun- 
try! 

The  attack  on  the  wagon  train  does  not 
seem  to  me  to  be  correctly  presented.  Did 
any  old  timer  ever  see  or  hear  of  Indians 
making  an  attack  on  a  wagon  train  by  try- 
ing to  conceal  themselves  behind  brush  held 
before  them  as  they  advance  to  the  attack? 
I  put  this  in  the  form  of  a  question.  In  the 
part  where  Jim  Bridger  is  supposed  to  be 
shown,  the  film  company  ring  in  the  old 
story  about  Mike  Fink  the  old  trapper  who 
developed  a  fondness  for  shooting  a  cup  of 
whisky  off  the  head  of  his  trapper  friend, 
portraying  this  as  if  Bridger  did  it  in  a 
drunken  carousal.  This  incident  is  related 
in  detail  in  Chittenden's  "History  of  the  Am- 
erican Fur  Trade,"  from  which  columns  the 
film  company  doubtless  got  this  story. 
Bridger  never  did  this  foolish  stunt,  in  spite 
of  the  attempt  of  the  film  people  to  make  the 
American  public  believe  that  he  did. 

There  are  a  great  many  other  features  in 
this  film  which  are  a  long  ways  from  being 
"historically  correct,"  if  what  men  tell  me 
who  have  "been  there"  can  be  relied  upon. 
Many  old  pioneers  who  have  seen  it  were 
greatly  disgusted  with  it  from  that  point  of 
view. 

But  this  libel  on  the  character  of  Jim 
Bridger  should  be  resented  by  those  who  are. 
familiar  with  Bridger's  life  history.  A  man 
on  whom  the  United  States  Government  de- 
pended as  a  guide  and  scout  for  many  of  its 
most    important    military    expeditions;    who 


was  looked  up  to  and  highly  respected  by 
every  old  time  military  officer  and  army  man; 
whose  word  was  absolute  on  what  he  knew 
and  d:c\  not  know,  and  who  was  respected 
and  looked  up  to  with  almost  reverence  by 
the  Indians  themselves — surely,  no  drunken 
sodden  old  whisky-drinker  could  rise  to  this 
important  position  nor  gain  such  wide  popu- 
larity and  renown!  No  plainsman  was  held 
in  higher  esteem  by  his  associates  than  old 
Jim  Bridger,  the  king,  the  dean  of  all  pio- 
neer plainsmen,  scouts,  trappers  and  guides. 

Let  us  hear  from  others  on  this  matter. 

Very  truly  yours, 

(Signed)     E.    A.    BRININSTOOL. 


Columbus,  Ind.,  June  21,  1898. 
Dear  Sir: 

Thought  would  write  few  lines  about  Cas- 
per City  Wyo.  1866  I  helped  to  build  Fort 
Casper,  Wyoming  A.  Co.  18  U.  S.  Infantry 
and  now  Casper  has  a  railroad  1866  the  sol- 
diers thought  never  would  be  a  town  build 
many  Indians  around  their  them  days  we  cut 
timber  in  Casper  mountains  log  trains  were 
guarded  by  soldiers  keep  Indians  from  tak- 
ing log  trains,  we  marched  from  Fort  Lea- 
venwort  Kd.  1865  to  Wyoming  would  like 
a  picture  of  Casper  City  been  also  at  Forts 
Fetterman,  Reno,  Philip  Kearny  northern 
Wyoming  a  great  deal  hardships  away  back 
lost  part  of  18  U.  S.  Infantry  Dec  1866  mas- 
sacre Ft.  Philip  Kearney  Wyoming  I  run 
across  a  Casper  Wyo  paper  here  seen  your 
name  being  first  settler  of  Casper  would  like 
to  see  Wyo  if  money  was  more  plentiful  get 
pay  for  army  disability  not  enough  to  make 
trip  will  send  stamp  for  reply  maybe  a  copy 
of  paper  how  largs  is  Casper  1866  about 
railroad  running  west  of  Casper  in  1866  was 
a  lonesome  place  hope  for  reply  about  popu- 
lation and  oil  wells  Just  got  back  from  Ohio, 
Yours   truly, 

ERNEST  POPE, 
18  U.  S.  Infantry. 

At  Fort  Casper,  Wyo.,  1866. 


TAKEN  FROM  DENVER 

ROCKY  MOUNTAIN  HERALD 

November  8,  1879.  The  sixth  Legislative 
Assembly  Wyoming  was  convened  at  Chey- 
enne on  the  4th.  N.  F.  Myrick  was  elected 
speaker  of  the  House  and  Henry  Garbaniti 
president  of  the  Senate. 

November  15th,  1879.  The  67ers  of  Chey- 
enne have  formed  a  society.  The  Wyoming 
Legislature  has  passed  a  memorial  request- 
ing President  Hayes  to  appoint  W.  W.  Cor- 
lett   Chief  Justice  of  that  Territory. 


CORRECTION 


Page  seven,  column  two  of  September  1923 
Bulletin,  Dodge  Home  should  read  Dodge 
House. 


358 


58 
59 


EXPENSE  ACCOUNT   OF   FORT  FETTERMAN,  WYOMING 

December  23rd,   1875 


Sundries 
James  Fielding 


47     M.  Lynch 


27     Dr.  Gibson 

56     Dan  Griffin  (order  by  Fielding) 


To  Mdse. 
Dks  &  Cig 
Lemon  Extract 
2  lbs.  Raisins 
2  lbs.  Currants 
10  lbs.  Apples 

4  Bottles  Ale 
1  Qt.  Brandy 
y2   lb.   Citron 

9  drinks 

1    can    F    Oysters 

1  lb.  candy 
Toy  Face 
100  lbs.   flour 

5  lbs.  coffee 

8  lbs.  sugar  G.  C. 

1  lb.  Tea 

2  lbs.  Currants 
1  pr  Boots 

4  boxes  dope 
Postage  Stamps 


1.75 

.50 

1.00 

.50 

2.00 

4.00 

2.00 

.40 

2.25 
1.00 

.50 
.25 

7.50 
2.00 
2.00 
2.00 

.50 
7.00 
1.60 

.10 


72.35 


12.15 


3.25 


.75 


22.70 


359     Mrs.  McFarland 


Jas.  Campbell 
D.  K.  Lord 


4  lbs.   Candy 

2.00 

4  lbs.  Currants 

1.00 

3.00 

Drinks 

2.75 

Tobacco 

5.00 

25  lbs.  Beans 

6.25 

14  lbs.  Sugar 

3.50 

2  sacks  Salt 

1.00 

Pepper 

.25 

Tobacco 

1.25 

Sugar 

1.00 

Coffee 

1.00 

Syrup 

4.00 

Matches 

.25 

23.50 

359  Co.  I  4th  Inf. 

34  W.   E.  Hathaway 

45  Major  Ferris 

24  C.  Larson 


3  lbs.  Raisins 
3  lbs.  Currants 
Dks  &  Cigars 
1  face  C  oil 
Drk 


1.50 
.75 


2.25 
.75 

1.00 
.25 


72.35        72.35 


SURVEY  1923 

The  present  State  Historian  entered  upon 
the  duties  of  the  Department  May  1,  1923, 
and  in  the  following  July,  Volume  1,  Num- 
ber 1,  of  the  Historical  Quarterly  was  issued. 
It  is  designed  to  make  this  publication  a  per- 
manent feature  of  the  Department.  At  pres- 
ent the  work  of  organizing  Historical  Socie- 
ties is  going  on  throughout  the  State  as  set 
forth  in  the  following  Constitution: 
ORGANIZATION  OF  STATE  AND  LO- 
CAL HISTORICAL  SOCIETIES 

The  following  Constitution  and  By-Laws 
have  been  drawn  up  by  the  State  Historian 
and  approved  by  the  State  Historical  Board 
(See  Session  Laws  1921,  Chapter  96,  Sec- 
tion 7). 

Constitution 

ARTICLE  I 
Name 
This  society  shall  be  known  as  the  Wyo- 
ming State  Historical  Society. 


ARTICLE  II 
Object 
The  object  of  this  society  shall  be  to  collect 
all    possible    data   on    the    early    settlements, 
explorations,  Indian  occupancy  and  Overland 
travel  in  Wyoming  and  adjacent  States.     To 
procure  from  pioneers  the  narrative  of  their 
pioneer  life  in  Wyoming;  of  the  progress  and  i 
development,    natural      resources,    industries 
and  growth  of  settlements.     To  procure  the 
history  of  military  forts  and  camps  in  Wyo- 
ming and  adjacent  States;  and  to  disseminate 
historical    information    through    the    publica- 
tions of  the  society. 

ARTICLE  III 
Membership 
Membership   in   the   Wyoming   State    His- 
torical Society  shall  be  three  classes,  namely: 
Active  Annual, 
Life, 
Contributing. 


ARTICLE  IV 
Dues 

Active  Annual — $1.00  per  year. 

ife — $50.00  paid  at  one  time,  entitles  the 
mbers  to  all  privileges  of  Active  Annual, 
hout  further  dues. 

Contributing — Newspapers  and  periodicals 
t  furnish  their  publications  for  one  year 
.11  receive  all  the  publications  of  the  so- 
ty  without  any  dues  during  the  time  of 
ltribution. 
Phe  payment  of  dues   in  advance  entitles 

members  to  receive  all  the  publications 
the  Society,  and  there  shall  be  no  further 
essments. 

ARTICLE  V 

Local  Historical  Societies 

_,ocal  Historical  Societies  shall  be  organ- 
d  in  each  county — as  a  branch  of  the  State 
janization — but  such  societies  will  have 
ir  own  Constitution  and  By-Laws  and 
•vide  for  their  own  officers. 

ARTICLE  VI 

Government 

rhe  Advisory  Board  and  the  State  His- 
iaj^  shall  be  the  governing  board  of  this 
:ietyrfor  the  year  of   1924. 


By-Laws 

ARTICLE  I 

Office 

The  office  of  the  State  Historical  Society 
11  be  the  office  of  the  State  Historian  in 
Capitol  Building  at  Cheyenne,  Wyoming. 

ARTICLE   II 

Amendments 

Kt  the  expiration  of  one  year  this  Consti- 
ion  and  the  By-Laws  shall  be  amended 
revised. 


ocal  Pioneer  Societies  throughout  the 
ite  are  re-organizing  and  new  societies  are 
ng  formed.  The  State  Historian  takes 
3  opportunity  to  thank  the  pioneers  of  this 
ite  and  others  for  their  interest  in,  and 
ir   co-operation   with   this    Department   of 

State.  Many  fine  manuscripts  have  been 
ltributed  and  a  few  letters  of  great  his- 
ic  value,  as  well  as  books  on  the  early 
tory  of  the  West  in  general  and  Wyo- 
ig  in   particular. 

Accessions 
MUSEUM 
?rom  January  1,  1923,  to  April  30,  1923 
Vlr.  W.  F.  Hooker,  map  of  Pioneer  Way, 
ture  of  "Three  Old  Plainsmen." 
ivlr.  J.  D.  Woodruff,  picture  of  first  dwell- 

house  in  Big  Horn  Basin. 
Vlr.  H.   P.  Haslam,  two  pictures. 
Vlr.  Albert  Ekdall,  fire  department  certifi- 
e. 

Vlr.    F.    J.    Wilder,    old    newspapers    dated 
56. 


Mr.  I.  S.  Bartlett,  autograph  manuscript, 
two  miscellaneous  papers. 

Dr.  T.  G.  Maghee,  five  photographs  and 
description  of  surgical  operation  performed 
in  1886  by  Dr.  Maghee. 

Mr.  J.  C.  Thompsno,  Jr.,  photographs  of 
women  officials   of  Jackson,   Wyoming. 

Mr.  F.  Gleason,  three  pictures. 

Senator  and  Mrs.  Kendrick,  two  pictures 
(portraits  of  selves). 

Mr.  Gautschi,  Spanish  Diggins  (Collections 
from). 

Mr.  A.  S.  Roach,  Colt  revolver  (taken  from 
Carlisle,  train  robber). 

Mr.  A.  H.  Cox,  compass  (taken  from  air 
plane  wrecked  in  Cheyenne). 

Mr.   John   H.    Gordon,   badge  and   medals. 

Mr.  Henry  Matt,  hunting  and  skinning 
knife. 

Mrs.   Park  Smith,   Indian  relics. 

Mr.  James  A.  Merna,  32  calibre  pistol. 

Mr.  William  Dubois,  picture  of  Robert 
Morris. 

Mr.  Frank  DeCastro,  photo  of  F.  A.  Watt, 
driver  of  stage  coach  in  1878-79. 

MUSEUM 
From  May  1,  1923,  to  December  .31,  1923 
Miss    Minta    Anderson,    fossil    shells    from 

near  LaBarge,  Wyoming. 

Mr.  W.  P.  Ames,  Indian  axe  (stone),  root 

of   tree. 

Mr.  Mark  Chapman,  Colt  revlover  manu- 
factured in   1850. 

Mr.  B.  B.  David,  fluting  iron  and  tongs 
(from   Guiterman  estate). 

Mrs.  Thomas  Gordon,  butter  print  bearing 
date  of  1807. 

William  Hartzell,  knife  made  from  bullets 
used  in  World  War. 

Dr.  and  Mrs.  W.  A.  Wyman,  colonial  foot- 
warmer  more  than  100  years  old,  one  bob- 
cat, one  Swan  killed  on  Sloan  lake  1880, 
three   small  birds. 

Mr.  Ed.  Myers,  arrow  heads,  collection 
from  Spanish   Diggings    (photo  views). 

Mr.  Vance  Lucas,  cocoanut  in  shell,  pieces 
of  Indian  pottery     Florida). 

State  Labor  Commissioner  Frank  Clark, 
envelope  from  first  air-mail  service. 

Mr.  Andy  Stewart,  hunting  knife,  old 
watch  and   key    (loaned). 

Mr.  Al  Heaton,  carved  briar  pipe  (1861), 
made  from  briar  on  James  river,  Virginia. 

Unknown,  peasant  necklace,  brass  harness 
disk,  velvet  bag,  shoe  buckle,  chain  for  spur, 
all  over  one  hundred  years  old. 

George  Clark,  three  one-cent  pieces  of 
United  States  mone-  dated  1853,  two  Er,T- 
lish  six  pence,  1883  (loaned). 

Mr.  D.  G.  Thomas,  pictures  of  documents 
of  1824. 

Mrs.  Ella  Walters,  pictures  on  Names  Hill, 
Wyoming. 


Mr.  Ernest  Logan,  picture  of  Colonel  Tor- 
rev. 

Mrs.  G.  W.  Plummer,  picture  of  first  train 
into    Encampment,   Wyoming. 

Unknown,  two  pictures  of  three  men. 

Mr.  Luther  Freeman,  picture  of  Ft.  Phil 
Kearney,  1866,  garrisoned  by  18th  infantry, 
picture  of  Ft.  Laramie,  1885,  garrisoned  by 
7th  infantry,  General  John  J.  Gibbon,  com- 
manding. 

Secretary  of  State  F.  E.  Lucas,  picture  of 
ex-President  Harding,  picture  of  Red  Angus. 

Mr.  A.  J.  Gereke,  two  early  pictures  of 
State  Capitol  Building. 

Mr.  L.  G.  Cristobal,  104  official  pictures  of 
air  planes,  air  fields,  etc.   (loaned). 

Mr.  John  Mathes,  two  ox  shoes  picked  up 
on  '49  trail,  greenbacks,  3,  5  and  50  cents 
used  during  the  Civil  War. 

HISTORICAL  DEPARTMENT:  BOOKS 
.     From  May  1,  1923,  to  December  31,  1923 

Mr.  E.  L.  C.  Schneider,  an  account  book 
of  Ft.  Fetterman,  1875. 

Mrs.  J.  C.  Van  Dyke,  two  volumes  Teepee 
Books. 

Mrs.  Louella  Moore,  nine  old  Brand  Books. 

Mr.  Phillip  A.  Rollins,  Trail  Drivers  of 
Texas,  two  volumes. 

Captain  A.  H.  Cook,  Fifty  Years  on  the 
Old  Frontier. 

Mrs.  H.  R.  Wharton,  Iowa  Official  Regis- 
ter, 1923-24. 

Rev.  J.  C.  Blackman,  Walker's  Dictionary 
(3rd  edition),  1807,  Daboll's  Schoolmaster's 
Assistant,  1824. 

Captain  H.  B.  Cassidy,  Historical  Regis- 
ter and  Dictionary  of  U.  S.  Army,  1789- 
1903,  Vol.  2   (Heitman). 

Mr.   Ernest   Logan,   Hands  Up. 

Mrs.  Cvrus  Beard,  Who's  Who  in  Amer- 
ica, Vol.  4  (1906-1907). 

Purchased  by  Historical  Department: 

Journal  of  John  Work. 

Sitting  Bull  (Life  of). 

First   Transcontinental   Railroad. 

Indian  Wars. 

Exploration  of   Colorado   River. 

PAMPHLETS 

Mr.  Norman  King,  Report  for  1923  of  the 
C.  M.  T.  C. 

Dr.  Hebard,  Bozeman  Trail  (poem  by 
Lillian   L.   Van   Burgh). 

E.  Richard  Shipp,  Rangeland  Melodies. 

Miss  Alice  Smith,  Stockmen's  Letters. 

Mr.   H.   E.   Crain,   Stockmen's   Lette.'s. 

Mr.  Ernest  Logan,  seven  pamphle'.s,  re- 
ports, etc. 

Mrs.   Cyrus   Beard,  John   Marshall. 

Air.  B.  B.  David,  55  pamphlets,  programs, 
manuscripts,   etc.,   from    Guiterman   estate. 


ORIGINAL  MANUSCRIPTS 
Bishop   McGovern. 
E.   Richard  Shipp. 
Roy  C.  Smith. 
Mr.  J.   H.   Gordon. 
Mrs.  A.  J.  Parshall. 
Mrs.   M.    C.   Brown. 
Mr.   Clarence  Holden. 
Mrs.  Bessie  Kirkpatrick. 
D.    G.  Thomas. 
Several  letters. 

MISCELLANEOUS 

McMurty  Paint  Company,  by  J.  J.  Meltz 
two  plate  glass  desk  tops. 

Dr.  G.  R.  Hebard,  programs,  clippings 
etc. 

Mr.   Frank  Lusk,  four  statehood  papers 

Mr.  Ed.  Myers,  one  old  paper. 

Mr.  Thomas  Durbin,  poll  book,  special 
election  in  city  of  Cheyenne,  2nd  Ward  pre- 
cinct, March  17,  1885,  to  elect  mayor  caused 
by  resignation  of  F.  E.  Warren. 

Poll  book,  3rd  Ward  precinct,  city  of  Chey- 
enne, Jan.  11,  1887. 

High  School  commencement  program, 
1881. 

Johnson  County  Historical  Society,  copy 
for  use  of  the  papers  of  their  Historical  So-; 
ciety. 


:.., 


NECROLOGY 


Men  and  women  whose  fine  character  and 
outstanding  personality  have  made  for  the* 
history  and  progress  of  our  State  have  dur- 
ing the  year  1923  "crossed  the  bar."  Promi-i 
nent  among  these  pioneers,  all  who  came 
previous  to  1880  appears  the  names: 

Mrs.  Almeda  Castle,  1867. 

Miss  Margaret  Whitebread,  1867. 

Ben   O'Connel,   early   70. 

Tim   Kinney,    1870. 

William   Hildreth,  oldest   Elk  in   World 

Airs.   Wm.    Guiterman,   1870. 

Andy  Ryan,  1867. 

Albert   Andrews,    1870. 

Seth  K.  Sharpless,  1868. 

Airs.  Elizabeth  Wilson,  born  near  Rawlins, 
Alarch  12th,  1843. 

John   Luman,   1859. 

Airs.  Agnes  Tait,  1876. 

Miss  Mae  Douglas,  1872. 

Wm.  T.  Schaffer,  1873. 

Robert  AlcQueen,   1876. 

Angus  J.  McDonald,  1868. 

William  A.  Mills,  1869. 

Mrs.  Janet  Smith,  1861. 


In  September,  1923,  there  passed  away  in 
Washington,  D.  C,  Airs.  J.  A.  Campbell 
widow  of  the  first  territorial  governor  of 
Wyoming.  Airs.  Campbell  was  blessed  with 
a  very  large  circle  of  friends  both  in  public 
and  private  life.  Wyoming  mourns  the  loss 
of  this  splendid  woman. 


yvM-4.  C^vt-<^^ 


(fO^< — e?_^7 — ^ 


HISTORICAL  DEPAk  i  M  I 


QUARTERLY  BULLETIN 


Vol.  1 


Cheyenne,  April  15,  1924 


No.  4 


REMINISCENCES    OF   OLD   FORT 
WASHAKIE 

By  Col.  Homer  W.  Wheeler,  U.  S.  A. 

(Retired) 

Author  of  "The  Frontier  Trail" 

,  I  was  stationed  at  Fort  Washakie  in  1878- 
9-80.  The  post  was  located  on  ^the  Little 
Wind  River,  Shoshone  Reservation,  160  miles 
from  the  railroad.  I  remained  there  until 
June,  1880.  In  1869,  Camp  Auger,  a  sub- 
post  of  Ft.  Bridger,  was  established  on  the 
present  site  of  Lander.  Subsequently  it  was 
made  a  separate  post  and  named  Camp 
Brown.  It  was  deemed  advisable  to  re- 
locate the  post  on  Little  Wind  river,  Sho- 
srfOi^e  reservation,  later  named  Fort  Wash- 
akie for  Chief  Washakie.  The  nearest  rail- 
road point  was  Green  River. 

While  stationed  there  I  was  the  quarter- 
master, commissary,  ordnance  officer,  post 
treasury  officer  and  in  command  of  my  troop 
part  of  the  time.  I  partially  rebuilt  the  post, 
erecting  a  large  storehouse,  guardhouse,  sta- 
bles and  an  administration  building,  which 
included  an  officers'  club  room — which  the 
enlisted  men  could  also  enjoy — bowling  al- 
ley and  a  en  .pel,  which  was  provided  'with 
a  stage  for  amusements.  Most  of  this  work 
was  done  by  soldier  labor.  The  men  went 
into  the  mountains  and  felled  the  trees  and 
hauled  the  logs  to  the  sawmill,  which  was 
provided  with  a  planing  and  shingle  mill.  I 
employed  a  citizen  sawyer  and  a  carpenter. 
These  were  all  the  civilians  employed,  save 
the  blacksmith  and  a  few  teamsters. 

While  I  was  stationed  at  Fort  Washakie 
I  purchased  and  set  out  a  hundred  trees 
iround  the  parade  ground.  This  tree  trans- 
action was  not  looked  upon  by  the  Govern- 
ment in  a  kindly  spirit,  and  I  was  directed 
'not  to  do  it  again."  I  obeyed,  but  just  the 
same  I  got  the  trees.  Today  they  have 
grown  to  be  immense  fine  trees,  and  doubt- 
less if  some  one  went  to  work  and  cut  them 
down,  there  would  be  as  big  a  hullabaloo 
raised  as  there  was  when  I  set  them  out. 

The  Shoshone  Agency  was  only  a  short 
distance  from  the  post.  This  tribe  numbered 
ibout  2,000  souls.  There  were  about  1,200 
Arapahoes  on  this  reservation.  They  came 
from  the  Red  Cloud  agency,  Nebraska,  after 
the  celebrated  winter  campaign  against  Sit- 
ting Bull  in  1876-77. 

Strictly  speaking,  the  reservation  belonged 
anly  to  the  Shoshones.  Their  head  chief  was 
Washakie,  a  man  with  a  keen  mind,  and  a 
loyal  friend  of  the  Government.  The  Sho- 
shones consented  that  the  Arapahoes  should 


live  on  their  reservation,  at  the  request  of 
the   Indian   Department. 

I  took  great  interest  in  these  Indians.  They 
called  me  "the  little  chief  with  the  scar  on  his 
face."  While  at  the  post  I  installed  the  first 
irrigation  ditch  for  the  Arapahoes.  While 
I  was  in  the  Philippines,  Gen.  Jesse  M.  Lee 
told  me  that  the  Indians  had  informed  him 
(when  he  was  at  Fort  Washakie  investigat- 
ing some  of  the  Indian  grievances)  that  I 
was  the  one  who  surveyed  and  showed  them 
how  to  make  the  ditch.  This  was  their  first 
attempt  at  farming,  and  if  the  Government 
had  taken  the  same  interest  in  these  Indians 
as  I  did,  they  would  now  be  self-sustaining, 
instead  of  wards. 

One  of  my  duties  was  the  inspection  of  all 
the_  fresh  beef  and  cattle  which  were  issued. 
This  issue  took  place  every  Saturday  morn- 
ing, at  which  time  I  went  over  to  the  agency, 
superintended  the  weighing  of  the  meat  is- 
sued, and  had  to  certify  to  the  weight  and 
see  that  it  was  up  to  the  standard  which  the 
contract  demanded.  This  certificate  was  sent 
to  _  the  Indian  Department  at  Washington. 
I  inspected  and  received  for  these  Indians 
upwards  of  3,000  head  of  stock  cattle,  which 
was  divided  among  the  various  families. 

While  I  was  riding  around  the  reservation 
one  day  I  happened  to  pass  by  a  thicket.  I 
observed  an  Indian  therein  branding  two 
or  three  calves.  I  asked  him  what  he  was 
doing  there.  Pointing  to  the  brand  he  laugh- 
ingly answered,  "Oh,  me  branding  calf,  all 
same  white  man."  It  looked  to  me  very 
much  as  if  he  were  branding  mavericks. 
There  were  several  large  herds  grazing  on 
the   reservation   at   that   time. 

While  I  -was  at  Fort  Washakie  I  took  the 
Indian  sweat  baths  just  as  the  Indians  did. 
The  sweat  house  was  a  small  bower,  budt 
by  sticking  the  ends  of  sharpened  willow 
'ranches  in  the  ground,  bending  them  over 
and  throwing  buffalo  hides  over  them.  This 
made  a  "bath  house"  eight  or  ten  feet  long 
and  about  six  feet  wide,  although  the  height 
was  such  that  a  person  sitting  down  would 
nearly  touch  his  head  against  the  covering. 
In  the  center  of  this  sweat-lodge  a  hole  was 
dug  in  the  ground,  in  which  stones  were 
placed  which  had  been  previously  heated 
very  hot.  The  selection  of  these  stones  was 
done  with  great  care,  being  as  nearly'  round 
as  possible,  and  never  were  again  used  for 
this  purpose.  New  stones  were  chosen  for 
all  subsequent  baths. 

One  time  during  the  month  of  January, 
Lieut.  Cummings  and  myself  decided  we 
would  begin  taking  these  Indian  sweat  baths. 
Although    there    was    snow    on    the    ground, 


(Copyright    applied    for.       Copying    privileges    will    be 
granted  by   the   State   Historian) 


QUARTERLY  BULLETIN 

I  shed  by  the  Wyoming  State  Historical 
Departn:-. 

State  Historical  Board 
Governor — William  B.  Ross 

Sta1  - — F.  E.  Lucas 
State  Librarian — Flo  La  Chapelle 

Historian — Mrs.  Cyrus  Beard 
i  B  :ard 

Ad%dsory  Board 
Rt  Rev.  P.  A.  McGovern,  Cheyenne 
Dr.  Grace  R.  Hebard.  Laramie 
Mr.  P.  W.  Jenkins,  Cora 
Mrs.1  E  SI    ridan 

Mr.  R.  D.  Hawley.  Douglas 

-   Margery  Ross.  C 
Mrs.  E.  T.  Raymond.  Xewcastle 
Mr.  E.  H.  Fourt.  Lander 

C : -tents 

Reminiscences  of  Old  Fort  Washakie 

Homer  W.  Wheeler.  U.  S.  A..  Retired 
.1  r     riace  Raymond  Hebard 

Pers     :al  Histr:; John  H.  Gordon 

Pope  Letter Coutant  Xotes 

Early  Days  in  the  West__ _T.  H.  McGee 

Notes  from   Surveyor    rxeneral's  Office 


that  did  not  deter  us.     Dry   grass  was  first 

placed  within  the  lodge  for  us  to  sit  on.     We 

then  stripped  and  went   inside  with  four  or 

the  I     lians    the  medicine  man  coming 

in   last.      Then   the   hot    s::::es    were    passed 

in  on  a  forked   stick,   and  placed  in  the  hole 

i  the  lodge.     Next,  a  bucket 

:"  water         -        -  -    i  in.     The  medicine  man 

now   placed  on  the   hot    stones    some    - 

gras  ich   emitted   a  most   fragrant   odor. 

He     then    commenced    singing    incantations. 

Finally,    taking    a    cup    of    water    from    the 

filled   his  mouth  and  commenced 

ng  the  hot  stones      The  lodge  was  soon 

filled   with    a    dense    steam,    making   it   very 

warm.      It    was    not    very    long    before    the 

thermometer    which    we    had    carried    inside 

showed   a    temper   tore     :f    120    degrees.      In 

fact,  it  soon  became  so  exceedingly  hot  that 

we  had  to  put  our  faces  down  into  the  grass 

in  order  to  breathe  a:   all.     We  remained  in 

the  lodge  until  we  were  fairly  dripping  -with 

we   threw   buffalo   robes 

irseli  left     the     lodge     and     ran 

down   te    the    Little  Wind   river,  about  fifty 

yards    distant,   and  jumped  in.     We   did  not 

remain  in  that  icy  water  very  Jong,  of  course, 

:;>n    was   pleasant.      We    then 

waded  out.  went  inside  a  tepee  and  thorough- 

t    .bed   ourselves    down     after    which   we 

experienced    a    most    decided    glow   and   felt 

"as   fine  as  a  fiddle." 

One  day  the  post  surgeon  decided  that  he, 
too,  wanted  to  try  an  Indian  sweat-bath, 
so  he  went  down  to  the  Arapahoe  camp  with 
us.  Before  we  entered  the  lodge,  we  told 
hat,  come  what  might,  he  must  keep 
ad  up.  We  had  been  in  the  lodge  but 
a  short  time  before  the  surgeon  commenced 
to  perspire  very  freely.  He  told  us  he  could 
not  stand  that  heat  much  longer.     Cummings 


and  I  had  our  faces  down  in  the  grass,  where 
we  were  standing  the  heat  finely.  First  one 
:  d  s  would  bob  up,  and  then  the  other,  ask- 
ing the  doctor  "how  he  was  making  out." 
He  stood  it  as  long  as  he  possibly  could, 
then    made   a   break   for    the   outer   air, 

remarking    that    it    was    "the    hottest    d 

place  he  ever  was  in." 

During  my  stay  at  the  post.  Sharp  Xose. 
the  head  chief  of  the  Arapahoes,  fractured 
ugh.  The  commanding  officer  sent  me 
down  to  tell  him  that  he  could  come  up  to 
-:  ii  he  chose  and  go  into  the  hos- 
pital, but  that  his  family  must  not  accom- 
any  him.  When  I  reached  the  Indian  camp 
I  found  the  Indian  doctors  attending  Sharp 
Xose.  They  had  made  a  splint  by  taking 
man}-  willow  twigs  the  size  of  a  lead  pencil 
and  stringing  them  in  the  same  way  the 
Chinese  and  Japanese  do  to  make  their 
screens.  They  had  set  the  leg  and  wrapped 
these  willow  twigs  around  it.  They  then 
made  a  strong  tea  out  of  sage,  with  which 
they  occasionally  spray-ed  the  injured  limb. 
This  relieved  the  soreness  and  inflammation 
very  much.  All  this  time  there  were  about 
a  half  dozen  Indian  doctors  present,  beating 
tomtoms  and  blowing  their  whistles.  The 
music  was  about  as  confusing  and  noisy  as 
Chinese  music.  Xevertheless.  Sharp  Xose 
eventually  recovered,  although  his  injured 
leg  was  about  an  inch  shorter  than  the  other. 
The  Indian  doctors  also  "cup"  for  head- 
aches and  other  complaints,  by  using  the 
base  end  of  a  buffalo  horn. 

During  the  spring  of  1879,  I  captured  the 
roving  remnants  of  the  Bannock  Indians, 
after  the  cessation  of  hostilities  with  that 
tribe.  There  were  about  40  men,  women 
and  children,  and  I  had  to  use  some  diplo- 
macy in  taking  them,  without  any  loss  of 
life. 

One  of  the  greatest  Indian  chiefs  of  mod- 
ern times  was  Washakie,  chief  of  the  Sho- 
shones.  from  whom  Fort  Washakie  received 
its  name.  He  was  born  about  1804,  and  died 
at  Fort  Washakie  February  20,  1900.  His 
father  was  a  Flathead  and  his  mother  a 
Shoshone.  Washakie  became  chief  at  the 
age  of  19  or  20,  but  did  not  become  distin- 
guished or  well  known  until  after  Gen.  Con- 
nor's defeat  of  the  Shoshones  and  Bannocks 
on  Bear  river,  Utah,  January  29,  1863. 

In  this  fight  there  were  about  300  Indians 
engaged.  Col.  P.  C.  Connor's  command 
numbered  about  the  same — all  California  vol- 
unteers of  cavalry  and  infantry — with  two 
b  v  itzers.  The  Indians  were  strongly  en- 
trenched in  a  ravine,  and  Connor  had  much 
difficulty  in  getting  to  them.  The  obstacles 
were  finally  overcome,  and  the  soldiers  killed 
all  but  a  few  of  the  Indians  who  jumped  in 
r  and  escaped.  Many  were  killed- in 
the  stream  while  attempting  to  swim  across. 
Only  the  women  and  children  were  spared. 
fhcer  and  twenty  soldiers  were  killed 
and  44  men  were  wounded. 

For    this    victory    over    the    Indians,    Col. 
Connor  was  promoted  to  a  brigadier-gener- 
alship.     The    Mormons    sided    with    the    In- 
-   and  gave  them  aid  and  encouragement, 
;  :ng   them   with   food   and   ammunition 
and    information    of    the    movements    of    the 


-.     The  camps.  the  outcome  of 

-tions  on  the  Overland  Trail  and  the 
Ding   :: 

this  tight,  a  much  larger  number  of 

congregated     on     Be:  but 

-    much    persuasion    and 

6nally    induced   many    vi    the   young 

rs  to  withdraw,  and  he  then  led  them 

to    Fort   Bridger,   Utah.      From  that  time, 

!  was  absolutely  ch 

ailed  the   "Great   Tre 
ade  with  the   Shoshone-         .    I 
168.      By    the    terms     ::'    this    treaty, 

given    the   Wind   River   cc 
r    a    r  ::.      It   tv- 

should  provide  military  protection 

r  the  .  the  country  they  were 

occupy,  but  for  some  r  as  not 

i    in    the    treaty.      To    my   knowledge 

e   Indian  Department   wanted   the    sold 

moved  irom  the  reservation  on  several  oc- 

»,    but    Chief   Wash  risted    npon 

feh  re  _  -ting  that  they  v  ere  Iris 

and    that    he    could    rely    on    their 

iendship  and  protection.     Although  not  act- 

l!1;     inserted  in  the  treat;      if         -   intended 

be  a  part  thereof.     In   after  years 
er.    this    stipulation    was    canceled   by   the 
rar  Departr. 

Throughout     his     life    Washakie    was     the 

eaaFast   friend    ::*  the  white  man,   but   was 

Inost    constantly    it   war  against   other   In- 

an  tribes — the  Sioux,  Cheyennes  and  Ara   - 

iocs   in   particular.      He   was    generally 

:        Pensive,    as  the  tribes   mentioned  were 

uch    stronger    than    his    own.       It    is    not 

lown   that   he  was    ever    lefeal  tough 

times  closely  tressed  and  besieged. 

Red  Cloud  and  Crazy  Horse  both  a  knitted 

at  Washakie   was    the    greatest    general  of 

on  all     He  t:ok  part  in   the    campaign    :: 

with     ^en,    Crook,   tendering   the   hitter 

ores    or    bis    young    -warriors    fcr    use     as 

outs    with    the    expedition,    and    they    ren- 

red  valual  le  serv  x.     The; — ere  under  the 

rsonal  charge  of  Tom  Cosgrove.   as    2  h  ief 

as  toe     hit:   take  a  personal  part 

■ 

was  a  great  leader  and  al 
itiplete  control  of  his  people     The  tat- 
i   years    ::    Iris   bfe  were   stent  in  the 
ijoyment   of   his   people   and    surroundings. 
•    an    End  in    ::   most    excellent    char- 
ier   tad  always    endeavored  to   exercise    a 
>od  influence  over  his  people.     He  was  ex- 
emely  fond  of  his  family   and   enjoyed  the 
il    lire.      A    story    which  is    ::ter_   told 
t  I : .  i    -      tat'he  lis  wives 

it   this    is    an    error.      K  ;  rition    was 

1st    kindly.      He   was   dignified,   and   com- 

ECt  of  all. 
Washakie    was    well    known    to    the    early 
v    and    pathfinders,    whose    : 
sought         -  t  C      -         the  -treat  hunt- 
trapper  and  guide  have  been 

s  favorite.  Xo  Indian  of  mountain  or  plain 
IBS     - 1   t  e    :  -  -  rably  known. 

His  remains  rest  in  the        -     Demetery 
ort   Washakie,   where   a  monument    si 

ted   by   the 
bates  g  evemment. 
In   the   issuing  of  annuity   goods    to  1 
idians.  it  was   customary   to   arrange   them 


in  two  par- 
men  with  smah 

-  -..      In    the 
.'.  - 
were  placed  on  the  c 
men  in 

ter  Bead  m  I  whe 

: 

-    - 

-  -    -  re  obliged  to  r 

pleted.      f*he 
- 

gs  and  the 
not  r 

■ 
g  their  thai 

.  r        i 

r    : — :r  - 
it   rrtreretee  e  of  a 

rse,  for  all  I  had  to  d 
i,  go  to  the  herd 
there    and    surrender    the      tick        [did 
know  this  at  t 

After    the    presentation  : 

Led  me  hit:   the   tenter   :I  the   ring,  and  from 
the  opp : 

maiden,   rrmrmhte ."'-'/    n:;;::   in    In- 
_;  :me     I 
imrment    : tvere  . 
teeth,      nrirty   :t  forty    ::   the  teeth    Dovered 
garment,    and   in   those    lays    they    were 
valued   it    from    ;I    t:    ?I    each       Fhe    moc- 
is  of  the  maid  '  red 

-      ~:   were  t     :    .  rcled 

-  i     suvex       -  i :  Jet  -        Herct  stume    ■ 
ve   been   worth    ii:      t      -_.  Her 

-  ted  in  such  i  manner   as   :      greatly 

nance   iter 

As   Sht  -  -  EVeral  -       ; 

—    ogfa  my  mind      As    t  was  the  :nst:nt 
int:nr  the  Indians  re 

t:     give     their     friend  ghters 

ght  this  might      t  t  t  led  t: 

id    :t    :  tmrse    I    : :  nl  I  not  ac 
Really.   I  did  r*hey 

r  up,  and  she  str  "   trnts   to- 

ward  nte.   and   I  thong 
throw  them  about  me  is  nte      I 

upon  dodged  bath,    thr: 
one  of  which   held 

resent  for  th<     iors(         icn    - 
grabbed    the    stick    from    my 

-   -     -     n  • 

t    :  Indians  c  I  bug 

At  the  time  I  did  not  understand  the 
:   their  mirl  t  1     ras  told     y  "Fr 

terpretex     thai  -  .    - 

cases  of  this  kmd  to  gfve  the  officer 

-  -        listribution  the    Uessing    : :   the   I -     e 

g   woman 
this  blessing 

er      rms   with    the  - 

bands  Uf  ::t  my  ring 

g 
I   docc.  ::tr   hers — sc    I  got 

.  -  -     - 

-     ■     .    I 

among  them  to  - 

gt       hen  they  reach  the  :r::er  


was  a  girl  who  had  been  sold  when  she  was 
a  child  to  another  Indian,  but  she  had  fallen 
in  love  with  a  young  warrior,  and  they  ran 
away  together,'  returning  as  man  and  wife. 
One  issue  day  they  were  going  up  for  ra- 
tions, when  the  Indian  who  had  purchased 
the  girl,  struck  the  young  "warrior-Lochin- 
var"  with  a  whip.  The  youthful  groom  killed 
his  assailant  on  the  spot,  and  then  fled  to 
the  mountains  with  his  wife,  telling  his  ene- 
mies that  if  they  wanted  him  to  come  and 
get  him.  This  caused  a  great  commotion 
among  the  different  bands  of  Indians,  and 
it  looked  as  though  there  was  going  to  be 
serious  trouble.  The  Indians  went  to  the 
commanding  officer,  Major  Upham,  Fifth 
Cavalry,  who  had  great  influence  over  them, 
and  asked  for  advice.  He  suggested  that 
they  send  two  or  three  old  men,  who  were 
friends  of  the  warrior,  out  to  him  and  try  to 
prevail  on  him  to  accompany  them  in  to  the 
post  with  his  wife — not  as  prisoners!  that 
the  commanding  officer  would  put  them  into 
a  room  in  the  guardhouse,  and  keep  them 
where  they  would  be  safe  from  their  enemies. 
The  head  men  would  then  try  to  get  the 
two  factions  together  and  see  if  they  could 
not  settle  the  matter  with  the  dead  man's 
relatives   without   further  bloodshed. 

One  morning  about  daybreak  I  was  awak- 
ened by  a  noise.  Looking  out,  I  saw  the 
young  warrior  and  his  wife  surrounded  by 
about  a  dozen  Indians,  who  were  singing  a 
war  song — a  custom  of  theirs  when  they  ef- 
fect a  capture.  I  was  officer  of  the  day,  and 
confined  the  couple  in  the  guardhouse.  They 
had  a  very  fine  buffalo  robe — one  of  the  fin- 
est I  ever  saw — and  while  in  the  guardhouse 
this  young  squaw  occupied  herself  in  decor- 
ating the  robe  with  dyed  porcupine  quills. 
Around  the  edges  were  loops  about  three 
inches  in  length,  on  which  were  strung  the 
cleft  hoofs  of  more  than  one   hundred   deer. 

Our  Indians  got  together  and  had  a  coun- 
cil with  the  relatives  of  the  prisoners,  and 
the  matter  was  finaaly  settled  by  the  friends 
of  the  young  warrior  presenting  ten  ponies 
to  the  relatives  of  the  murdered  man.  When 
the  young  couple  were  released  from  the 
guardhouse,  I  again  happened  to  be  officer 
of  the  day  and  released  them,  whereupon  the 
squaw  made  me  a  present  of  the  decorated 
buffalo  robe.  I  was  offered  $100  for  it  on 
several  occasions. 

(Signed)     HOMER  W.  WHEELER. 


January  22,   1924. 
My  dear  Mrs.  Beard: — 

In  response  to  your  recent  request  in  re- 
gard to  the  "Coutant  Notes,"  I  am  submit- 
ting the  following  statement: 

Mr.  George  Coutant  planned  to  write  a 
three  volumed  History  of  Wyoming  but  prior 
to  his  death  he  had  only  written  and  had 
published  Volume  1  which  is  still  on  the 
market.  This  first  volume  was  printed  and 
bound  in  Laramie.  Ill  health  and  financial 
difficulties  prevented  Mr.  Coutant  from  real- 
izing his  ambition  for  a  complete  and  com- 
prehensive History  of  Wyoming  and  giving 
it  to  the  public  in  three  volumes.  From 
Laramie  where  for  a  time  Mr.  Coutant  lived, 
and  he  also  lived  for  a  time  in  Cheyenne,  he 


moved  to  the  State  of  Washington  where  he 
died,  in  the  early  winter  of  1913. 

Shortly  after  his  death  I  corresponded  with 
his  widow  asking  her  if  she  did  not  wish  to 
dispose  of  any  material  which  her  husband 
may  have  collected  with  the  intention  of  em- 
bodying it  in  future  volumes  of  the  History 
of  Wyoming,  stating  that  I  felt  that  some 
one  in  Wyoming  should  purchase  this  valu- 
able material  of  her  husband's  rather  than 
some  one  out  of  the  State  who  was  not  par- 
ticularly interested  in  our  local  history.  Af- 
ter she  named  her  price  I  purchased  the  ma- 
terial in  January,  1914,  when  it  was  sent  to 
me,  which  material  consisting  of  a  number 
of  old  books  on  the  Northwest  about  traders 
and  trappers,  Indian  fights,  and  Frontier 
days,  a  small  amount  of  material  written  and 
ready  for  publication,  a  large  amount  of 
notes,  some  almost  in  the  nature  of  short- 
hand, and  others  more  or  less  extended.  One 
hundred  or  more  biographies  of  Wyoming 
pioneers  and  a  collection  of  scores  of  photo- 
graphs of  men  and  women  who  were  in  Wyo- 
ming during  early  days  were  also  included. 
After  keeping  this  material  for  a  number  of 
years,  hoping  that  I  might  be  a'ble  to  find 
time  enough  to  write  a  history  of  Wyoming, 
utilizing  Mr.  Coutant's  material,  I  decided 
that  the  State  Historical  Society  was  the 
proper  place  to  have  this  material  safely 
housed,  in  July,  1921,  I  sold  it  to  the  Wyo- 
ming Historical  Society  for  what  it  had  cost 
me. 

This  is  the  material  which  you  now  have 
in  your  department  and  which  I  feel  is  the 
one  best  set  of  material  on  the  early  history 
of  Wyoming  taken  from  personal  interviews 
that  has  ever  been  collected  or  ever  will  be 
collected.  I  say  ever  will  be  collected  be- 
cause the  majority  of  those  old  pioneers  who 
were  interviewed  by  Mr.  Coutant  have  long 
since  gone  on  the  Trail  of  the  One  Way. 

I  am  very  glad  to  give  you  this  informa- 
tion and  if  I  can  help  in  any  way  let  me 
know  and  I  shall  be  very  glad  to  do  so. 

Verv  cordiallv, 
(Signed)     GRACE  RAYMOND  HEBARD. 

Laramie,  Wyoming. 


PERSONAL  HISTORY 

If  my  father's  family  Bible  is  reliable,  it's 
recorded  there  I  was  born  on  the  17th  of 
April,   1843,   County  Antrim,   Ireland. 

There  were  nine  of  the  family,  seven  boys 
and  two  girlsf  all  grew  up  to  manhood  and 
womanhood.  I  was  next  to  the  youngest 
member  of  the  family,  the  older  members 
had  to  go  out  to  what  was  called  service 
with  farmers.  My  father  being  a  common 
laborer,  whose  wage  was  only  seven  shillings 
a  week  and  provide  his  own  board,  this  com- 
pelled us  all  to  leave  home  at  an  early  stage 
to  maintain  existence.  The  little  food  re- 
ceived from  the  farmers  for  such  service  con- 
sisted exclusively  of  potatoes,  oatmeal  por- 
ridge, buttermilk,  occasionally  the  oatmeal 
would  be  made  into  oat  cakes,  but  no  such 
a  thing  as  meat  or  flour  bread. 

What  fine  strapping  men  and  women  were 
produced  on  such  diet  that  would  be  called 
today   meager   food,    nevertheless   they   were 


stalwarts  or  the  bone  and  sinew  of  the  Brit- 
ish Empire  and  contributed  to  build  her  up 
until  the  sun  never  sets  on  her  dominions. 

But  I've  digressed.  My  memory  goes  back 
at  this  distant  day  when  about  five  or  six 
years  old,  I  got  a  job  to  herd  three  or  four 
pigs  for  a  farmer.  For  the  service,  I  got 
my  potatoes,  oatmeal  and  buttermilk.  At 
this  time  I  cannot  refrain  to  mention  the 
dreadml  condition,  especially  of  the  common 
people.  What  I  have  reference  to  is  called 
the  Irish  famine,  caused  by  a  blight  on  the 
potatoes,  which  was  one  of  the  principle 
staples  of  food,  especially  for  the  peasantry. 
Such  a  calamity  was  awful,  some  dying  by 
the  roadside,  with  grass  in  their  mouths.  At 
this  date,  1848,  the  population  of  the  Island 
was  about  8,000,000.  In  a  few  years  by  star- 
vation and  immigration  it  was  reduced  to 
ibout  5,000,000.  While  the  government  made 
svery  effort  to  alleviate  the  calamitus  con- 
ditions, the  mortality  was  enormous.  I  must 
lot  omit  the  services  from  the  United  States, 
which  is  always  in  the  forefront  where  dis- 
tress exists. 

One  bunch  of  Ireland  men  from  New  York 
>ut  of  their  own  pockets  chartered  a  ship, 
oaded  it  with  corn  for  the  starving  Irish, 
oaded  same  vessel  with  people,  brought  them 
:o  United  States.  These  remininiscences 
:tci,wd  my  memory.  I  cannot  refrain  from 
jiving  expression   to   them. 

To  go  back  to  my  swine  herding.  The  old 
voman  of  the  household  was  very  kind  to 
ne  and  gave  me  my  first  lesson  in  education. 
[  can  see  her  now,  with  her  specs  on,  get 
ne  between  her  knees.  I  held  the  little 
)rimer.  She  would  look  over  my  shoulder 
md  say  A,  I  would  repeat,  then  B,  etc.,  so 
inely  I  had  all  the  letters  of  the  aphabet. 
Ehis  manner  of  life  coninued  until  I  was 
ibout  10  ye;.rs  old,  when  I  hired  to  a  farmer 
or  six  mo. ..as  for  the  sum  of  10  shillings 
.nd  board,  the  kind  of  food  already  described. 
.  don't  think  I  ever  had  a  shoe  on  my  foot 
lititil  this  age.  This  manner  of  life  continued 
mtil  I  was  14  years  old.  I  forgot  to  say  that 
luring  this  period  when  work  was  slack  on 
he  farm,  the  man  allowed  me  the  privilege 
o  attend  a  small  country  school  where  I 
earned  to  read  words  containing  three  or 
our  letters,  also  write  a  little  on  a  slate  with 
late  pencil,  so  when  mistakes  were  made 
hey  could  be  easily  corrected,  also  in  figures 
tiade  some  advancement,  reached  the  rule  of 
imple  division.  One  example  still  lingers 
n  memory,  viz.,  three  vessels  started  to  Am- 
rica  with  immigrants  1st  vessel,  so  many 
!nd  so  many,  1st  got  wrecked  so  many  lost 
'  by  disease,  2nd  lost  so  many.  How  many 
fot  safe  to  America?  This  is  as  far  as  my 
chooling  went  so  remained  with  farmer  un- 
il  I  was  14  years  of  age. 

At  this  time  there  was  a  cabinet  maker 
n  the  vicinity  who   made  furniture,   sold  to 

Belfast  furniture  dealer,  he  asked  me  how 

would  like  to  learn  to  make  funiture,  this 

agreed  to  readily  so  of  course  my  father's 
onsent    had    to    be    procured.      In    due   time 

was  indentured  for  5^2  years  to  receive  my 
ioard  and  2  suits  of  clothes  during  the  above 
ieriod.  I  must  add  the  boss  was  very  lib- 
ral  with  me  and   Xmas   would  lay   down  a 


shilling  on  the  bench  for  me.  During  the 
service  the  indenture  stated  I  was  to  serve 
my  master  at  his  command  night  and  day 
so  the  hours  of  labor  was  from  12  to  14 
hours  a  day,  or  until  the  boss  would  say 
time  to  stop.  I  must  add  my  master  was  a 
grand  mechanic  so  had  to  do  all  my  work 
to  a  nicety,  also  he  had  some  schooling  and 
was  as  far  advanced  in  numerical  figures  as 
to  simple  proportions,  or  what  was  called 
the  rule  of  three,  whatever  that  means. 

During  my  apprenticeship  if  (space  would 
permit)  many  little  incidents  I  would  like 
to  mention.  My  master  (as  he  was  called) 
was  unmarried  so  his  Aunt  kept  house,  a 
clean  very  tidy  body  she  kept  two  cows 
milked -and  attended  them  I  done  the  clean- 
ing of  stable,  after  that  done  the  churning. 
Fire  on  hearth  never  was  out  night  or  day, 
used  peat  for  fire,  a  little  piece  at  night  so 
there  was  fire  in  the  A.  M.  never  a  match 
or  candle  in  the  house,  had  a  little  vessel 
with  oil  and  wick  out  on  one  side,  this  was 
the  house  light,  tho,  we  had  candles  for  the 
work  shop.  Never  seen  a  newspaper  in  the 
house  the  only  way  we  got  outside  news, 
was  by  a  class  of  men  called  tinkers  who 
traveled  round  the  country,  repairing  pots 
and  pans  when  required,  they  had  the  ad- 
vantage to  pick  up  news  and  impart  it  in  their 
travels.  We  had  another  class  called  ped- 
dlers, who  had  some  cheap  cloth,  pins,  need- 
les and  other  bric-a-brac,  this  class  supple- 
mented the  tinkers. 

My  master  had  two  bairns  who  visited 
often,  even  the  school  master  would  drop 
around  occasionally  and  tho  they  were  void 
of  newspaper  lore  they  would  argue-  and  dis- 
cuss public  questions,  of  course  my  ears  were 
ever  alert,  and  how  I  wished  I  had  been 
educated.  I  would  try  and  remember  the 
words  they  would  use  and  how  they  would 
pronounce  them;  the  only  literature  in  the 
house,  the  Bible  of  course  first  and  fore- 
most, Chambers  information  'for  the  people, 
Josephus,  Barns  notes  on  the  new  Testa- 
ment, a  worn  paper  cover  copy  of  Robert 
Burns  poems.  This  took  my  fancy  more  than 
any  of  the  others,  for  this  reason,  Burns  used 
generally  small  words,  besides  there  were  of 
the  dialect  of  which  I  was  used  to.  With  a 
few  lines  as  to  my  biblicial  training,  appren- 
ticeship, attended  three  Sabbath  schools,  be- 
sides a  sermon  of  two  hours  duration.  I  can 
readily  see  the  divine  at  this  distant  day 
ascend  the  pulpit  stairs,  a  big  six  footer  and 
how  he  would  lay  down  the  law  and  the 
prophets,  and  have  all  his  discourse  by  quota- 
tions from  the  word  of  God,  you  will  gather 
from  this,  Bible  students  had  all  the  old 
catechism  on  my  tongues  end,  besides  there 
was  a  number  of  texts  to  prove  each  ques- 
tion, oh  yes  every  word  had  to  be  committed 
to  memory  even  at  this  I  would  stand  most 
preacher's  examination,  but  like  all  things 
there  was  an  end  to  my  apprenticeship,  so 
returned  to  fathers  home,  this  was  on  the 
sea  coast  in  Belfast,  where  shipping  was  car- 
ried on  extensively.  I  became  infatuated  with 
the  sea,  so  got  a  berth  aboard  a  steamship 
bound  for  the  Mediterranian  to  lay  a  sub- 
marine telegraph  cable.  Visited  Gilbralter, 
Malta,  several  cities  in  Sicily,  Italy,  returned 


after  a  four  months  voyage.  Joined  another 
steamer  bound  for  Montevidea  and  Buenos 
Ayres  this  was  a  general  merchant  ship,  car- 
rying general  cargo,  arrived  home  all  safe. 
After  a  short  stay  ashore,  joined  a  New  York 
passenger  vessel,  this  was  during  the  war  be- 
tween North  and  South,  a  Civil  war  as  it  is 
called,  we  were  to  leave  New  York  on  a 
Saturday  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
and  here  comes  word  President  Lincoln  had 
been  assassinated  so  we  remained  a  few  hours 
till  his  end  so  the  Etna  took  the  first  sad 
news  to  Europe.  There  was  a  cable  across 
the  Atlantic  at  this  date,  but  for  some  cause 
was  out  of  repairs.  Returning  home  my  fa- 
ther advised  me  to  give  up  the  sea  and  follow 
my  trade.  At  this  time  I  had  a  sister  and 
brother  in  the  United  States,  in  the  state  of 
Connecticut,  wrote  them  who  advised  me  to 
come  along,  so  packed  my  little  output  and 
in  due  course  arrived  at  South  Manchester, 
Connecticut,  got  job  as  carpenter  at  $2.75 
per  day,  the  foreman  seeing  my  hand  work, 
sent  me  to  the  shop  to  make  patterns  for 
silk  machinery,  as  this  was  a  silk  factory, 
my  wages  was  increased  to  $3.00  per  day, 
so  my  early  training  came  in  good  play  after 
all.  At  this  time  I  roomed  with  a  Scotch- 
man by  name  Gilchrist  (his  widow  still  in 
Cheyenne).  This  employment  continued  for 
two  years  when  I  returned  to  Ireland  and 
took  to  myself  a  wife  of  my  own  section  of 
country,  arrived  back  to  South  Manchester, 
where  the  former  job  was  obtained;  about 
this  time  Mr.  Gilchrist  got  married  so  we 
both  settled  down  in  the  same  village.  Mr. 
Gilchrist  was  foreman  of  the  outdoor  labor- 
ers and  stood  very  high  in  the  community; 
he  was  a  daily  reader  of  the  New  York  Trib- 
une and  at  "this  time  Horace  Greeley  was 
editor  and  was  a  great  authority  on  many 
matters  all  over  the  country.  He  got  the 
idea  of  the  development  of  the  west,  finally 
got  set  aside  a  large  body  of  prairie  land 
along  the  margin  of  the  Cach  La  Poudre, 
advertised  for  colonists  through  his  and  other 
papers.  Mr.  Gilchrist  and  I  caught  the  in- 
fection and  took  Mr.  Greeley's  slogan,  "go 
West  Young  Man."  We  put  up  our  entrance 
fee  of  $150.00,  first  to  arrive  at  embryo  city 
of  Greeley,  29th  of  April,  1870,  it  is  hard  to 
refuse  a  few  lines  on  this  occasion,  as  my 
memory  goes  back  vividly  at  this  stage.  I 
have  said  we  arrived  at  Greeley  at  this  date, 
the  railroad  only  went  as  far  as  the  village. 
We  got  off  the  train  on  a  few  ties  used  for 
a  platform,  then  what  a  sight  met  our  view, 
not  a  house  to  be  seen  but  one  shanty  for 
the  engineers  tools,  also  a  few  tents  for  their 
accommodations. 

Each  day  a  few  new  settlers  would  arrive 
and  what  disappointment  every  one  experi- 
enced, women  sitting  on  their  broken  boxes, 
children  crying,  men  going  around  with  long 
faces  at  a  loss  to  know  what  to  do,  finally 
an  old  billiard  hall  came  from  Cheyenne, 
this  afforded  shelter  and  protection  to  broken 
boxes  broken  in  transit,  there  was  a  man  at 
Greeley  to  receive  the  arrivals,  General  Cam- 
eron, had  been  a  celebrated  man  in  the  Civil 
war,  and  had  it  not  been  for  his  efforts  to 
encourage  the  people,  I  Delieve  at  that  time 
the  enterprise  would  have  been  a  failure.    Af- 


ter all,  complaints  became  so  serious,  Mr. 
Greeley,  made  a  special  trip,  stayed  a  few 
days  among  the  people,  in  the  evening  deliv- 
ered good  sensible  advice,  this  in  a  great 
measure  had  a  pacifying  effect,  the  whole 
trouble  the  arrival  of  the  settlers  was  too 
early  and  no  provision  made  for  their  recep- 
tion. The  embryo  town  was  surveyed  and 
mapped,  Mr.  Gilchrist  and  I  being  the  first 
arrivals,  had  first  right  to  make  a  selection, 
of  town  lots,  he  took  first  and  I  second 
choice.  When  lots  were  secured  then  build- 
ing commenced,  I  believe  I  was  the  first  to 
erect  a  shanty,  which  I  donated  to  carpenter, 
so  Gilchrist  and  I  found  shelter  there.  Now 
all  is  bustle  with  the  building  boom,  any  one 
could  saw  a  board  and  nail  it,  but  the  most 
of  them  could  not  make  a  door  or  window 
frame,  so  I  was  kept  busy  supplying  such, 
how  many  little  incidents  crowd  my  memory 
vividly  at  this  distant  day  but  I  must  for- 
bear as  it  would  swell  this  narrative  to  un- 
reasonable proportions.  Most  all  busy  on 
their  respective  plots,  friction  and  complaints 
have  almost  vanished;  nothing  will  cure  a 
man  of  crankiness  or  uneasiness  like  good 
honest  hard  work.  It  beats  praying  all  hol- 
low. During  the  summer  Gilchrist  bought 
team  and  wagon,  we  being  young  and  husky, 
wished  to  conquer  other  fields,  so  arranged 
to  take  a  trip,  at  least  into  the  foot  hills  west 
of  Greeley,  the  country  a  rolling  bare  prairie, 
25  miles  up  the  stream  we  arrived  at  Fort 
Collins,  here  was  the  remains  of  a  military 
post,  a  concrete  building  where,  a  little  store 
was  kept,  by  man  who  was  known  as  Squire 
Mathews,  as  we  drove  up  he  was  standing 
with  his  shoulder  against  the  door  post,  by 
way  of  opening  the  conversation,  we  in- 
quired the  price  of  several  articles  and  I  re- 
member nails  were  15  cents  per  pound.  There 
was  a  few  shanties,  and  a  hotel  kept  by  a 
middle  aged  lady,  who  went  by  the  name  of 
Auntie  Stone,  the.  hotel  was  outside  of  the 
imposing  class  of  a  small  log  cabin  with  two 
small  rooms,  we  were  fortunate  to  have  our 
supplies  along  so  did  not  patronize  the  ho- 
tel; at  this  date  there  was  some  farming  be- 
ing carried  on,  and  from  the  results  obtained 
by  these  pioneers  no  doubt  it  had  an  effect 
on  the  location  of  Greeley  Colony.  Contin- 
ued our  journey  to  La  Porte,  this  about  4 
miles  above  Fort  Collins,  here  we  found  sa- 
loon and  small  store,  several  Frenchmen 
here  all  had  their  Indian  wives,  there  was 
considerable  farming  done  in  this  section  had 
good  irrigation  ditches,  the  farmers  were  all 
American.  We  made  camp  for  the  night 
having  travelled  thirty  miles.  I  must  add  the 
store  keeper  Billy  Patterson  something  of  a 
rough  and  ready  character  and  from  him 
got  many  tales  about  the  early  pioneers,  I 
will  not  vouch  for  them  being  all  gospel. 

We  made  our  camp  for  the  night  in  the 
yard  of  an  old  Scotchman  by  name  of  Watt. 
He  and  his  wife  had  raised  several  of  a  fam- 
ily but  death  had  taken  some,  balance  scat- 
tered over  the  world.  It  was  a  treat  to  hear 
the  old  people  converse  in  our  youthful  ver-  ! 
nacular,  we  got  further  information  about 
the  country  in  general,  and  on  which  we 
could  rely,  breakfast  over  we  were  on  the 
road  again,  our  next  point  of  interest  to  visit' 


was  a  place  called  Livermore,  about  IS  miles 
west  of  LaPorte.  We  now  ascend  into  the 
foot  hills  proper,  roads  all  in  natural  condi- 
tion and,  a  good  deal  of  hauling  being  done 
with  fencing  material  principally,  the  drive 
to  Livermore  was  really  enchanting,  out  of 
one  lovely  grassy  valley  into  another,  there 
the  little  babbling  brook,  kept  tumbling  down 
from  its  eternal  source. 

At  length  we  arrived  at  Livermore;  at  first 
we  thought  we  might  overlook  or  fail  to  dis- 
cover it  but  here  it  is  a  dug  out  in  the  bank. 
Soon  the  proprietor  made  his  appearance, 
he  was  known  by  the  name  of  "fatty"  Moore, 
as  to  the  fat  part  I  think  he  was  well  named. 
It  being  noon  we  unhooked  the  team,  turned 
them  out  to  grass,  lovely  valley  here  and  a 
magnificent  stream  coursing  through  the 
vale,  it  is  called  the  north  fork  of  the  Cach- 
La-Poudre,  this  name  I  believe  is  French 
md  means  where  the  powder  was  concealed 
3r  hidden.  We  found  we  had  discovered  a 
very  interesting  character  in  our  friend 
Moore.  He  had  traveled  a  great  deal,  in 
:act  was  one  of  the  old  forty-niners  to  Cali- 
:ornia,  but  like  many  others  was  unsuccess- 
ful, so  wandered  back  to  Colorado  to  try  his 
:uture  on  new  ground.  It  appears  he  had 
several  prospect  holes  but  at  this  time  were 
Tuitless.  Three  miles  or  so  above  the  Moore 
:at>i^  (I  mean  Livermore,  excuse  me)  there 
vas  a  fine  valley,  with  a  grand  brook  flow- 
ng,  this  valLy  had  been  named  Lone  Pine, 
rom  a  magnificent  lone  pine  growing  on  the 
)ank  of  the  stream,  strange  to  say  no  other 
;uch  tree  anywhere  along  the  valley,  but  cot- 
onwood,   box  elder,   willows   in   profusion.' 

During  our  rambles,  we  came  across,  a 
nan  by  the  name  of  Calloway  located  on  the 
ibove  stream;  he  was  the  only  settler  we 
net  who  haa  any  cattle,  I  think  fifty  or  sixty 
lead,  pretty  well  bred  stock,  we  inquired  how 
le  provided  feed  for  them  in  the  winter;  he 
nformed  us  no  provision  was  necessary,  that 
hey  came  through  in  the  spring  in  fine  con- 
lition.  This  made  a  great  impression  on  Mr. 
jilchrist  and  myself,  to  think  raising  cattle 
vithout  growing  feed  for  them.  We  must 
low  hurry  back  to  Greeley  having  a  splendid 
mting,  gaining  much  valuable  information 
)f  the  country  and  feasting  our  eyes  on  the 
gorgeous  scenery,  there  is  something  fasci- 
lating  and  inexpliciable  in  a  new  unsettled 
:ountry.  Our  wives  had  arrived  before  we 
nade  our  mountain  trip,  so. all  was  well  on 
mr  return. 

We  now  got  into  harness  again  and  dur- 
ng  our  short  absence,  how  Greeley  had 
jrown,  shanties  everywhere  over  the  prairie; 
laturaly  our  trip  was  the  principal  topic  in 
he  evening  with  our  families,  and  we  really 
vere  making  plans  to  leave  Greeley  and  be- 
ake  ourselves  to  mountain  ranches  on  the 
>eautiful  valley  of  Lone  Pine  already  de- 
icribed.  In  the  meantime  I  had  erected,  a 
imall  house  one  and  a  half  story  house  for 
l  man  who  went  back  east  and  gave  me  lib- 
:rty  to  occupy  it  and  look  after  his  interests. 
fVife,  one  child  and  I  occupied  the  lower 
>art,  Mr.  Gilchrist  and  wife  upper  portion 
md  done  a  little  cooking  on  our  stove. 

Now  the  winter  sets  in  with  its  cold  freez- 
ng  blast;  coal  was  very  high  priced,  so  had 


cotton  wood  hauled  from  the  river;  bored 
holes  in  it  and  used  powder  to  split  the  heavy 
portion,  and  oh  what  a  cold  winter  no  one 
knew  how  cold  it  was  as  the  mercury  froze 
in  the  tube,  and  no  spirit  thermometer  in  the 
settlement,  how  my  memory  lingers  over 
that  winter,  even  through  it  all  had  one  child 
born  (who  two  years  ago  departed  this  life 
and  now  sleeps  within  the  portals  of  the 
tomb).  What  made  the  cold  so  severe  houses 
erected  so  flimsy,  no  plaster  or  even  paper 
on  the  walls,  just  the  rough  boards  on  the 
wide  spaced  studding.  We  finally  turned  up 
in  the  spring  with  experience  not  readily  for- 
gotten; great  suffering  in  Greeley  that  winter. 
During  the  winter  the  Lone  Pine  subject  be- 
come thoroughly  ventilated,  so  much  so  Mr. 
Gilchrist  and  I  had  decided  to  sell  our  inter- 
ests in  Greeley  and  become  ranchmen.  All 
was  arranged,  Mr.  Gilchrist  had  his  own  team 
and  I  had  made  arrangement  with  Mr.  Watt 
referred  to,  to  take  us  to  our  destination, 
first  days  drive  to  La-porte  to  Mr.  Watts. 
I  will  here  add,  his  small  wagon  box  was 
ample  to  accommodate  all  freight  and  pas- 
sengers. On  our  first  visit  to  Lone  Pine,  we 
became  so  infatuated  with  the  valley  we  even 
went  so  far  as  to  outline  our  respective  loca- 
tions, at  this  date  I  cannot  recollect  of  the 
land  being  surveyed  into  sections,  there  was 
what  was  called  squatters  right,  however  a 
blazed  tree  or  a  post  or  a  rock  set  was  duly 
respected.  In  the  meantime  I  had  written 
friend  Moore  to  have  me  800  feet  of  boards 
delivered  at  a  certain  Lone  Pine  point  in  (I 
will  add  there  was  a  small  saw  mill  on  the 
upper  reaches  of  the  Poudre  river,  from  that 
an  ox  team  hauled  me  the  800  feet  of  green 
pine  boards.  After  staying  over  night  with 
Mr.  Watt  started  next  morning  for  our 
mountain  home.  Friend  Moore  very  kindly 
gave  us  the  shelter  of  his  dug  out  for  the 
night,  next  morning  Mr.  Watt  delivered  us 
at  our  location,  I  had  my  tool  chest  and  a 
good  set  of  tools  I  brought  from  the  east, 
so  on  this  score  was  well  fixed.  Wife  and  I 
started  housebuilding,  I  cut  some  cotton 
wood  to  make  the  frame,  to  be  brief  we  were 
living  in  our  mansion  all  complete  the  same 
day  besides  having  two  small  children  to  look 
after,  the  younger  still  at  her  mother's 
breast.  I  suppose  some  would  call  this 
roughing  it. 

Next  day  cut  cotton  wood  for  posts  and 
poles  for  corral,  another  big  day's  work, 
third  day  dug  out  the  ground  at  back  of 
shanty  for  cellar,  as  we  were  going  into 
dairying  somewhat,  and  this  was  our  milk- 
house.  I  forget  if  1  mentioned  from  Mr. 
Callaway  already  referred  to  I  purchased  14, 
2  year  old  heifers,  at  $40.00  per  head,  also 
one  three  year  old  mare  at  $1 50.00.  Mr.  Cal- 
laway delivered  the  stock  in  the  corrall,  so 
much  headway  made.  I  had  a  great  deal  of 
trouble  holding  the  cattle  as  they  wished  to 
go  back  to  their  old  range,  besides  my  mare 
was  not  well  broke,  likewise  no  saddle,  so 
had  to  take  it  on  foot,  but  such  at  that  time 
was  merely  fun  to  me,  as  swift  of  foot  and 
could  almost  head  an  antelope.  Mr.  Gilchrist 
and  I  were  going  to  do  some  farming  to- 
gether as  with  his  team  could  do  the  plowing, 
etc.      We    seeded   oats,   planted   2   barrels   of 


potatoes,  we  had  purchased  in  New  York,  at 
\2Y2  cents  per  pound,  of  course  we  must  get 
water  to  irrigate  as  we  had  experience 
enough  to  know  this,  but  having  too  many 
irons  in  the  fire  some  of  them  were  bound 
to  burn,  so  was  unable  to  get  sufficient  water 
to  the  crops,  which  I  may  add  was  almost 
a  complete  failure,  still  further  to  make  mat- 
ters worse,  here  we  were  visited  by  one  of 
the  plagues  of  Egypt,  viz.,  grasshoppers;  this 
was  my  first  experience  with  this  kind  of  ver- 
min, I  saw  they  would  soon  devour  every- 
thing in  vegetable  line,  in  a  day  or  so,  I 
thought  I  might  as  well  mow  the  little  patch 
of  oats,  but  lo  and  behold  when  I  arrived 
with  my  scythe,  the  heads  of  grain  were  all 
down,  I  swung  {he  scythe  a  few  times,  gath- 
ered up  a  small  bunch,  dropped  them  at  the 
door  saying  here  was  our  season's  grain  crop; 
the  potatoes  were  all  about  the  size  of  mar- 
bles. 

I  was  just  now  beginning  to  have  some 
experience  with  my  cattle  along  the  lines  of 
dairying,  the  first  to  have  calf  was  a  little 
red  one,  I  would  know  her  to-day  after  over 
5(J  years;  of  course  she  never  had  been  hand- 
led before  so  I  could  not  get  near  her  to  do 
any  milking,  I  went  and  told  my  troubles  to 
friend  Gilchrist:  he  replied  I  will  go  down 
and  give  you  a  hand,  we  run  her  round  the 
corral  several  times;  finally  Gilchrist  caught 
her  by  the  nose  and  horns,  and  held  her  as  if 
in  a  vise  and  said  now  get  your  pail  and 
milk.  As  soon  as  I  touched  her  up  went  her 
heels,  sent  me  and  pail  sprawling  over  the 
ground  but  I  was  game  and  gathered  my- 
self up  and  went  at  the  job  again,  well  I 
finally  succeeded  to  get  about  a  quart,  so 
Gilchrist  let  go  and  said  this  is  the  only  sys- 
tem tobreak  heifer:,  you  hold  them  as  I  do 
and  let  your  wife  milk.  Now  here  was  some- 
thing to  try  our  metal.  I  will  here  add  no 
doubt  there  are  women  who  would  excell 
Mrs.  Gordon  in  some  particulars,  but  none 
could  excell  her  in  milking  a  cow;  we  used 
this  system  of  breaking  the  heifers  until  we 
had  put  12  head  through  our  hands.  One 
was  an  extra  large  one  who  had  her  calf  in 
the  fall,  she  was  too  much  for  me  to  handle 
and  about  this  time  I  heard  of  a  man  several 
miles  away  by  name  of  Fisher.  I  heard  he 
had  a  system  or  plan  whereby  he  could  ma- 
nipulate a  rope  and  get  it  on  a  cow's  horns. 
I  told  Fisher  the  dilemma  I  was  in  and  wish- 
ed he  would  try  his  plan  on  the  cow,  so  I 
could  tie  her  to  a  post  and  milk  her.  He  was 
very  obliging,  saddled  up  and  we  arrived  at 
the  corrall;  he  got  his  rope  with  large  loop 
and  after  several  attempts  finally  caught  the 
heifer,  so  tied  her  to  post,  where  we  could 
handle  her.  I  had  Mr.  Fisher  leave  the  rope 
on  her  and  I  bought  him  another.  I  will 
here  mention  this  was  my  first  experience 
laso-ing,  at  this  date  there  were  no  cow- 
punchers  in  this  section.  I  must  here  men- 
tion the  calves  were  all  raised  by  hand,  so 
the  cows  did  not  waste  any  affection  on  their 
offspring;  through  all  my  experience  I  never 
had  such  a  docile  bunch  of  cows,  in  fact  when 
Mrs.  Gordon  would  go  into  the  pen  to  milk 
I  had  to  be  on  hand  to  keep  the  others  away 
while  the  one  was  being  milked;  this  outline 
of  ranch   life  continued   during   the   summer. 


The  fame  of  the  little  valley  as  a  pasture 
location  got  abroad  and  several  settlers  had 
located  with  some  cattle.  It  appeared  to  me 
we  were  liable  to  be  crowded,  as  I  had  got 
somewhat  familiar  with  surrounding  coun- 
try. I  decided  to  move  about  six  or  eight 
miles  to  a  new  location,  where  there  was  a 
nice  little  meadow,  and  a  splendid  spring; 
here  I  had  a  visit  from  the  muse  which 
caused  me  to  exclaim. 

The   Bonnie   wee   spring  by   the   Meadow, 
How  I   love  to  sit  down  by  your  side. 
And  quaff  the  sweet  waters  that  bubble  eter- 
nal 

Like  yon  flowing  tide. 

Your  quota  you  send  to  the  ocean 
Where  frantic  you  rage  in  the  storm, 
The  clash  of  arms  will  be  felt  on  your  bosom 
And   Leviathians   lash  you   to   foam. 

How  gentle  and  sweet  from  the  mountain, 
Xo   nectar   such  pleasure   can  bring, 
O,  give  me  a  draft  from  the  fountain, 
From  my  own  my  bonnie  wee  spring. 

This  place  had  the  signal  advantage  as  it 
was  three  or  four  miles  to  the  nearest  water, 
I  could  not  be  crowded  by  being  too  close  to 
a  neighbor.  You  will  gather  from  this  we 
looked  to  having  quite  a  space  betwixt  neigh- 
bors, five  or  six  miles  was  reckoned  close 
enough  in  those  days  so  our  nearest  neigh- 
bors' chickens  would  not  scratch  each  oth- 
ers gardens. 

There  was  a  pine  timber  a  short  distance 
from  the  above  location,  so  I  proceeded  on 
horseback  A.  M.  after  breakfast,  to  cut  down 
logs  to  build  a  house.  This  was  six  miles 
from  our  present  location,  returning  in  the 
evening  kept  up  these  trips  until  I  had  suf- 
ficient logs  to  complete  the  building  hired  a 
man  with  ox  team  to  haul  the  logs,  and  help 
me  to  put  them  in  place;  the  logs  were  cut 
14x12,  so  our  mansion  was  about  1Ux12,  6 
feet  high,  I  done  all  chinking  and  mudded 
the  spaces  betwixt  the  logs.  I  demolished 
our  present  shanty  of  800  feet  of  lumber,  as 
already  described,  this  covered  the  roof  and 
gave  us  a  floor  which  was  a  great  improve- 
ment over  the  sticky  earth.  I  have  said 
the  stock  were  all  nice  and  gentle  by  the 
process  breaking  already  described,  had  a 
corral  all  ready,  also  made  pen  for  the  calves, 
at  one  end  of  the  dwelling  had  a  little  sta- 
ble for  the  mare;  this  location  saved  one  side 
part  of  house  building,  the  whole  structure 
was  partly  excavated  on  side  of  bluff.  Back 
side  of  stable  excavated  and  built  small  cave 
or  cave  for  the  chickens,  on  bad  weather 
they  had  the  run  of  the  little  stable.  Mrs., 
Gordon  often  said  she  never  had  chickens 
that  done  so  well,  as  the  saying  goes  we  were 
as  snug  as  a  bug  in  a  rug.  One  little  win- 
dow, four  small  panes  of  glass,  stove  in  one 
corner,  bed  for  the  whole  family  four  of  usJ 
Here  we  are  in  the  month  of  November  and] 
now  a  snow  storm  six  or  eight  inches.  I 
was  informed  by  the  man  I  bought  the  cattle 
from  it  was  unnecessary  to  make  provision 
for  the  stock  during  the  winter.  It  looked 
to  me  the  cattle  could  not  very  well  feed  on 


a  snow  bank.  Well  here  was  a  calamity  un- 
expected of  cows  and  $700.00  in  debt  but  as 
the  Scotch  has  it  "set  a  stout  heart  to  a  stie 
brae"  in  a  few  days  the  storm  subsided  so 
took  my  trusty  Henry  rifle  started  back  in 
the  hills  expecting  to  see  the  cattle  all  dead 
from  starvation.  But  lo  and  behold  here  one, 
two,  three  in  fact  all  the  balance  came  up 
to  view  all  looking  perfectly  contented;  this 
was  a  rocky  timbered  section,  abundant  grass 
showing  above  the  snow,  this  was  the  first 
grass  cropped  by  cattle,  tho  we  had  a  severe 
winter  the  stock  came  through  in  most  ex- 
cellent condition.  I  hurried  back  to  tell  the 
good  news  about  the  cattle  to  my  wife  and 
on  my  way  back  a  fine  fat  white  tailed  deer 
came  in  view  which  my  rifle  brought  down, 
taking  the  saddle  or  hind  quarters  threw 
them  on  my  shoulders  and  arrived  triumph- 
antly at  the  cabin,  when  the  good  news  of 
the  cattle  was  told  joy  took  place  of 
melancholy,  though  we  had  a  severe  winter, 
the  stock  came  through,  in  fairly  good  con- 
dition. The  calves  I  had  arranged  with  a 
man  by  the  name  of  Day,  who  had  a  mag- 
nificent meadow  and  abundance  of  hay,  so 
the  calves  fared  very  well;  not  so  with  my 
mare,  I  had  no  hay  for  the  kindly  beast,  so 
done  the  best  under  circumstances,  I  pick- 
eted her  during  the  day  with  an  old  blanket 
strapped  on  her,  so  she  pawed  snow  most 
of  the  day.  In  the  evening  I  would  take 
large  knife  and  go  around  the  rocks  where 
grass  was  tall,  fill  a  sack,  this  with  a  quart 
of  oats  or  so  was  the  bill  of  fare  for  the 
night.  During  the  winter  kept  busy  keeping 
the  stove  going,  occasionally  looking  after 
the  cattle,  kept  the  larder  well  supplied  with 
venison;  in  those  days  it  did  not  take  an 
expert  nimrc  d  to  capture  all  the  necessary 
game.  To  make  a  long  story  short  we  got 
through  the  winter  without  any  loss  to  the 
cattle,  but  by  mare  pretty  thin. 

Old  Sol  now  returned  with  his  usual  smile. 
A  busy  life  has  now  ensued,  dairying  has  now 
proceeded  with,  but  our  conditions  were  so 
cramped  had  to  erect  something  more  of  a 
habitation.  Secured  a  thorough  wood  chop- 
per who  hewed  sufficient  logs  nicely  hewed 
to  make  house  14x16  feet,  this  was  a  great 
improvement;  made  shingles  by  hand  which 
was  a  great  improvement  over  the  earth  roof, 
this  I  believe  was  the  only  shingled  house 
in  the  settlement.  Had  a  nice  little  stone 
milk  house  on  north  end  with  flat  stone  floor 
with  a  little  labor  had  the  spring  water  con- 
ducted to  milk  hou:e,  so  we  were  in  a  proper 
shape  to  carry  on  our  butter  making.  The 
butter  we  put  up  in  two  pound  cotton  sacks, 
this  was  stored  in  wood  barrels,  the  spring 
water  trickling  around  so  the  butter  kept  in 
excellent  condition.  When  we  had  two  hun- 
dred pounds  or  so  I  would  make  the  journey 
to  market,  Cheyenne  50  miles  distant.  I 
would  start  four  or  five  p.  m.  and  drive  to 
Lone  Tree  ranch,  camp  over  night,  up  by 
day  light,  nine  miles  to  Cheyenne,  get  there 
when  stores  and  people  were  beginning  to 
move  around.  I  generally  visited  Camp  Car- 
lin;  there  I  found  a  good  market — no  Fort 
Kus sell  m  those  days.  Besides  a  gread  deal 
of  freight  was  going  north  from  Cheyenne 
and   the   butter   being   so   packed    suited   the 


freighters  to  perfection;  having  secured  my 
supplies  on  the  homebound  trip  arrived  some 
time  during  the  night.  During  my  absence 
had  a  lady  settler  stay  with  wife  so  I  would 
get  her  supplies,  and  pay  her  otherwise.  It 
was  ten  miles  from  my  ranch  on  the  way  to 
Cheyenne  to  Builder  creek;  at  the  crossing, 
was  located  a  ranch  kept  by  Martin  Callaway, 
a  brother  of  the  man  I  bought  the  cattle 
from.  I  would  oblige  them  with  bringing 
back  any  little  groceries  and  their  mail.  Next 
creek  about  10  miles  further  was  located  I 
think  the  name  is  Lone  Tree,  the  property 
of  Tom  Magie,  John  Rees,  now  of  Cheyenne 
was  the  manager.  The  accommodation  was 
extended  here  same  as  to  Martin  Callaway. 
In  those  days  we  were  remarkably  obliging 
one  with  another.  I  suppose  being  so  wide- 
ly separated  had  a  tendency  to  make  us  more 
sociable  or  friendly  to  each  other.  This 
strenuous  existence  kept  up  for  three  or  four 
years  when  settlers  began  to  multiply.  The 
new  settlers  were  arriving  and  being  short 
of  mail  facilities  put  our  heads  together  and 
secured  weekly  mail  service;  the  postmaster 
was  my  friend  Moore  already  referred  to 
who  had  the  post  office  in  his  dug  out.  I 
got  the  contract  to  carry  the  weekly  mail  on 
horseback  to  La  Porte  at  $200.00  per  an- 
num, from  my  place  to  Livermore  was  three 
miles,  would  ride  there  for  mail,  return  get 
breakfast,  then  to  La  Porte,  change  mail 
back  to  Livermore,  deposit  mail  and  return 
home.  I  made  three  weekly  trips  summer 
and  winter  for  two  years  and  only  missed 
one  trip  on  account  of  storm,  sometimes 
mail  was  very  light  one  time  only  one  letter 
in  the  sack. 

Bonnies  Springs,  very  fine  springs  bubbling 
up  in  the  desert,  two  young  men  from  Wis- 
consin located  there  their  father  furnishing 
them  a  bunch  of  sheep,  their  names  were 
Bennet,  one  of  them  now  operates  a  bank 
at  Fort  Collins,  Colorado.  This  is  the  first 
sheep  at  least  in  northern  Colorado  that  I 
had  seen  or  heard  of.  I  have  said  before 
the  three  mile  was  now  invading  my  domain; 
these  were  fine  boys  and  got  well  acquaint- 
ed, I  finally  sold  my  ranch  to  them  for 
$500.00.  This  was  a  pile  of  money  to  me  in 
those  days.  In  looking  around  for  a  new  lo- 
cation, I  finally  bought  a  ranch  from  a  man 
by  the  name  of  Miller,  the  ranch  was  still 
further  in  the  mountains  than  what  I  had 
been  used  to,  it  consisted  of  log  house,  log 
corral,  small  stable.  It  will  not  be  expected 
it  could  be  much  of  a  place  for  the  above 
$150.00  price.  It  was  unsuited  for  dairying 
so  let  the  cows  rear  their  own  calves.  Here 
cur  youngest  child  was  born,  this  made  our 
family  one  boy  and  two  girls;  this  location 
seemed  far  from  pleasing,  so  made  up  our 
minds  to  look  out  for  a  new  location.  About 
this  time  76,  the  northern  country  was  being 
talked  about  as  fine  location  could  be  se- 
cured especially  as  the  Indians  had  been 
thoroughly  controlled.  To  make  a  prospect 
I  took  my  saddle  horse,  a  couple  of  blankets 
and  started  on  my  prospecting  tour.  In  due 
time  without  any  mishap  arrived  at  Bordeaux 
known  as  the  Jack  Hunton  ranch.  This 
was  my  first  acquaintance  with  Mir.  Hunton, 
who   was  very   gentlemanly   toward  me   and 


10 


gave  me  much  valuable  information  about 
the  surrounding  country,  and  that  settlers 
need  have  no  fears  about  future  trouble  with 
Indians.  I  finally  examined  the  big  and  little 
Laramie  streams  as  they  were  caled,  the  sec- 
tion where  the  two  flow  together  suited  me 
better  than  any  I  had  seen  as  there  was 
abundance  of  water  to  irrigate;  near  this  lo- 
cation there  was  a  bridge  across  the  big 
Laramie,  close  by  there  was  a  cabin  where 
a  man  by  the  name  of  Billy  Bacon  with  his 
wife  resided.  I  think  they  supplied  meals  for 
any  travellers  who  passed  that  way.  It  was 
a  great  camping  ground  for  the  freighters 
as  it  was  twenty  miles  or  so  from  Bordeaux, 
finally  returned  home  and  made  my  report 
of  discovery  in  the  northern  country.  So  we 
decided  to  move  to  the  Laramie  River  or 
bust,  by  the  way  the  section  described  was 
called  Uva,  I  have  forgotten  the  origin  of 
the  name.  Accordingly  wagon,  team  and 
supplies  were  arranged  so  hired  a  good  relia- 
ble man,  by  name  of  George  Hardin.  Leav- 
ing family  provided  for  with  a  neighbor  bade 
adeiu  to  our  mountain  home,  departed  for  our 
new  location,  this  as  I  remmeber  the  early 
part  of  March,  1878,  without  any  mishap  ar- 
rived safely  at  Uva.  It  was  getting  about 
sun  down  when  we  arrived.  I  told  my  man 
George  to  fix  up  camp,  our  bed  under  the 
wagon,  while  I  would  go  up  the  stream  and 
get  a  deer  or  antelope,  no  trouble  to  find 
game  handy  in  those  days;  I  had  only  gone 
a  short  time,  when  I  felt  a  few  drops  of  rain. 
This  caused  me  to  look  up  and  then  I  beheld 
a  fearful  black  cloud  in  the  northwest  and 
just  about  this  time  I  brought  down  an  an- 
telope, took  the  saddles  and  hurried  back  to 
camp.  It  was  raining,  we  had  plenty  of  wood 
so  soon -had  a  good  fire  and  with  our  venison 
and  good  stout  coffee  had  a  good  supper. 
It  was  now  almost  dark,  so  we  divided  our 
bed  over  the  horses  and  crawled  under  the 
wagon;  the  storm  increased  in  violence,  rain 
ceased  and  turned  to  snow  and  the  wind  ter- 
rific, no  sleep  that  night  so  we  did  the  best 
we  could  to  keep  from  being  smothered;  at 
daylight  what  a  scene  to  behold,  horses,  wa- 
gon almost  covered;  we  lay  some  time  after 
day  light,  thinking  the  fury  of  the  storm 
would  be  abated  but  apparently  no  cessation. 
I  said  to  my  man  George,  I  am  going  to 
make  an  effort  to  reach  the  Bacon  cabin,  so 
up  we  got,  of  course  we  lay  down  undressed, 
the  cabin  was  only  100  yards  or  so  distant 
and  we  had  the  location  by  the  wind  storm. 
We  took  each  others  hands  and  finally  reach- 
ed the  cabin,  to  say  that  Bacon  and  wife 
were  surprised  is  putting  it  mildly,  they 
thought  we  would  have  been  lost  in  such  a 
blizzard.  We  found  them  chinking  up  every 
crevice  to  keep  out  the  snow  and  we  ren- 
dered every  assistance  to  keep  out  the  snow, 
this  being  accomplished  consoled  ourselves 
in  being  fortunate  to  secure  shelter,  day  al- 
most passed  but  no  give  up  to  the  storm. 
Toward  dusk  I  mentioned  to  my  man  George 
we  must  see  the  horses  at  all  hazards,  he  was 
reluctant  to  go,  but  seeing  I  would  go  alone 
he  decided  to  face  the  storm.  Bacon  had  a 
little  stable  so  got  the  horses  into  it,  one 
brought  the  team  while  one  handled  a  sack 
of  oats  and  bags.     Then  another  trip  for  the 


mess  box  and  our  little  bedding  which  we 
resurrected  out  of  the  snow,  we  were  for- 
tunate to  be  well  supplied,  with  provisions, 
as  the  Bacon  family  hadn't  much  to  spare. 
For  three  days  and  nights  the  storm  con- 
tinued unabated,  no  hay  for  the  team,  so  far 
oats  twice  a  day.  On  the  third  day  in  after- 
noon the  storm  subsided,  the  violence  of  the 
wind  left  the  high  parts  of  ground  almost 
bare,  so  took  the  team  out  to  paw  for  little 
grass  which  they  assuredly  enjoyed;  on  the 
fourth  day  all  was  serene  and  calm  and  what 
a  sight,  the  country  seemed  almost  perfectly 
level.  You  could  not  see  where  the  big  Lara- 
mie existed.  I  cannot  give  the  date,  but  this 
has  always  been  referred  to  as  the  big  March 
storm,  and  has  become  historical. 

Our  first  move  was  to  get  some  logs  to 
erect  a  shanty,  but  in  this  vicinity  on  the  big 
and  little  Laramie,  very  little  could  be  pro- 
cured. It  was  fifteen  miles  to  Cottonwood 
creek,  there  was  ample  Cottonwood,  so  the 
effort  was  made  to  reach  this  creek,  so  left 
the  wagon  box  and  started  with  running 
gear  with  our  supplies.  It  is  really  unneces- 
sary to  recount  our  difficulties,  we  were  two 
days  reached  the  creek,  had  to  shovel  snow 
the  greater  part  of  the  way,  in  some  cases 
took  the  team  from  the  wagons  and  broke 
through  the  drifts  almost  to  their  backs. 
Finally  we  reached  the  Cottonwood  Creek, 
here  I  discovered  the  man  I  bought  the 
$150.00  ranch  from,  I  think  I  mentioned  his 
name,  he  was  known  as  Tobe  Miller,  he 
was  pleased  to  see  us  and  had  ample  accom- 
modation for  us  and  team.  The  ranch  was 
devoted  principally  to  accommodation  of 
travellers,  especially  freighters,  as  a  great 
deal  of  freight  passed  this  way  to  Fort  Fet- 
terman  and  the  region  surrounding  it.  Cat- 
tle ranches  were  just  being  established.  This 
was  about  35  miles  from  Bordeaux,  and  15 
to  20  miles  to  Horse  Shoe  creek,  now  to  get 
timber  to  build  a  house  this  stream  had  a 
much  greater  growth  of  cottonwood  than  any 
I  have  ever  seen.  I  suppose  this  is  the  rea- 
son it  got  such  a  name. 

Snow  was  beginning  to  settle,  and  a  freight 
outfit  has  pushed  its  way  from  Bordeaux, 
so  I  and  my  man  went  to  chopping  the  cot- 
tonwoods,  the  timber  being  so  dense  it  caught 
and  held  the  snow.  I  know  that  I  cut  some 
trees  that  were  at  least  ten  feet  from  the 
ground,  when  we  had  a  few  cottonwoods, 
started  George  with  a  few  sticks  only  so  he 
could  make  the  return  trip.  In  the  mean- 
time I  kept  cutting  to  have  a  load  ready  on 
his  return;  this  work  we  kept  up  until  we 
had  enough  material  to  build  the  house. 

After  six  weeks  or  so  of  such  experience 
we  arrived  home  all  sound.  All  was  now 
bustle  in  making  preparations  to  reach  the 
promised  land,  as  near  as  I  can  remember 
we  just  vacated  the  great  $150.00  ranch  in 
the  month  of  May,  bade  adeau  to  Colorado 
and  cast  our  lot  in  Wyoming.  After  a  very 
tedious  journey  with  wife  and  three  small 
children  and  small  bunch  of  cattle  we  reached 
Uva  and  our  little  cottonwood  cabin  with  its 
dirt  roof  and  floor.  With  the  help  of  two 
young  men  who  drove  the  cattle  we  got  a 
corral  erected  so  we  could  secure  the  cattle 
at  night  and  stable  for  four  head  of  horses. 


11 


Here  I  took  up  a  desert  claim,  got  fencing 
lone,  took  out  irrigation  and  made  the  place 
doom  as  the  rose.  The  Bacons  were  still  at 
he  old  place  and  had  made  it  a  disreputable 
dace  for  wild  cowboys  and  other  rif-raff; 
i  gambling  and  drinking  den  paid  Bacon  an 
:ven  $1,000.00  to  leave,  and  I  filed  pre-emp- 
ion  of  $160.00  on  the  place.  I  will  add 
Bacon  located  at  Fort  Fetterman,  established 
l  saloon  and  gambling  place  where  shooting 
vas  the  order  of  the  day;  in  one  of  these 
amps,  Bacon  got  involved  when  the  bullet 
rom  his  antagonist  lodged  in  his  wind  pipe 
md  shut  the  breathing  apparatus.  This  is 
he  tale  given  to  me  and  this  shooting  ended 
he  life  of  Billy  Bacon.  Think  I  have  said 
le  was  a  wild  dare  devil,  it  was  said  he  could 
ide  anything  that  wore  hair,  and  got  a  leg 
iroken  riding  an  outlaw. 

In  the  process  of  time  the  fame  of  the 
_,aramie  Valley  got  abroad  in  the  land  and 
ettlers  began  to  arrive  to  take  up  land,  one 
.mong  the  rest  I  must  mention.  While  I 
ived  in  that  celebrated  $150.00  ranch  I  got 
cquainted  with  a  celebrated  hunter  named 
Dutch  George,  he  had  a  small  dug  out  on 
he  bank  of  the  Poudre  river  where  the  speck- 
ed trout  were  in  abundance;  he  and  I  were 
lose  friends,  and  many  a  fishing  and  hunt- 
iTg*l¥ip  we  had  together.  So  at  my  depar- 
ure  he  said  he  would  follow  me,  in  due 
ourse  of  time  he  arrived  and  we  were  very 
dad  to  see  him,  as  he  was  honorable  to  the 
ore;  at  this  time  the  Laramie  Peak- region 
vas  really  undiscovered  and  the  natural  ren- 
lezvous  for  all  kinds  of  game.  Naturally 
ieorge  wished  to  explore  the  region,  and 
vished  above  all  things  to  kill  a  bear.  I 
dvised  him  to  be  careful,  as  he  was  void  of 
ear  and  replied  to  my  caution  he  was  willing 
o  die  a  hunter.  He  had  his  horse  and  pack- 
d  a  little  grub  and  bedding  to  be  gone  two 
lays,  on  the  third  day  no  appearance  of 
George,  so  I  and  another  started  to  find  him, 
re  finally  discovered  his  horse  picketed;  a 
hort   distance   from   the   horse   we   explored 

canyon  and  here  we  found  George  badly 
hewed  up,  judging  by  the  signs  it  must  have 
ieen  a  bear.  It  seems  the  animal  crushed 
lis  skull,  then  to  make  sure  he  was  dead, 
lad  bitten  his  leg  down  to  the  foot  as  it 
ranted  to  see  if  he  was  still  alive.  His  gun 
tood  against  a  tree  and  we  found  his  pocket 
:nife  open  the  conclusion  we  arrived  at  was 
e  had  nearly  stunned  the  bear,  and  started 
o  dress  it  when  it  came  to  life  and  got  the 
iest  of  him. 

He  was  such  an  expert  hunter  he  never 
ised  anything  to  dress  his  game  but  his 
■ocket  knife.  We  brought  him  to  the  ranch 
nd  what  a  sorrowful  journey;  of  course  the 
ad  news  soon  got  around  the  settlement  and 
hough  not  personally  acquainted  with  him 
hey  had  a  good  report  for  him.  I  had  some 
imiber  and  made  a  good  box,  had  some 
rish  linen  we  brought  from  Ireland,  wrapped 
lim  as  nice  as  we  could,  had  the  men  quarry 
>ut  a  grave  on  the  side  hill  (I  remember  the 
ery  spot  even  after  so  many  years)  covered 
lis  last  remains  with  large  rock  so  coyotes 
ir  other  vermin  could  not  disturb  the  re- 
nains   of   poor    George.      I    sent   a   man   and 


team  to  the  hills  and  secured  large  pitch  pine 
posts  and  poles.  I  have  no  doubt  the  grave 
is  intact  to  this  day;  after  over  forty  years 
he  still  lives  in  my  memory  as  a  kind  worthy 
associate.  Though  this  sad  occurrance  cast 
a  gloom  over  my  house-hold,  still  the  affairs 
of  life  had  to  be  proceeded  with. 

I  rebuilt  where  the  location  was  and  the 
travel  increased  so  I  was  compelled  to  keep 
open  house  and  charge  for  accommodation. 
One  of  my  patrons  was  Judge  Carey,  who 
made  frequent  visits  to  his  cattle  ranch  at 
Careyhurst.  Having  had  eight  years  experi- 
ence, and  seeing  the  results  of  irrigation  at 
Greeley,  Fort  Collins,  Laporte,  I  began  to 
think  how  it  would  apply  in  the  Laramie 
region;  at  this  time,  antelope  were  very  nu- 
merous and  on  the  section  where  Wheat- 
land is  now  located  this  was  one  of  the  fa- 
vorite haunts.  On  my  hunting  expeditions 
I  have  viewed  this  section  over,  such  a  mag- 
nificent settlement  for  a  colon}',  and  the 
Laramie  River  bank  full  of  water  and  not  a 
ditch  taken  therefrom.  On  one  occasion  I 
mentioned  my  idea  as  to  a  settlement  to 
Judge  Carey,  it  so  impressed  him  he  wished 
to  look  over  the  ground.  In  doing  so  he  was 
greatly  impressed  with  results  that  could  be 
obtained,  according  on  his  return  to  Chey- 
enne he  had  a  committee  go  up  and  spy  out 
the  land  which  was  done;  to  be  brief  the 
laudable  Wheatland  project  was  inaugurated. 
Judge  Carey  and  I  have  always  been  the  best 
of  friends  and  he  has  always  been  very  con- 
siderate towards  me,  even  going  so  far,  from 
the  public  platform,  as  to  give  me  the  honors 
of  being  the  father  of  Wheatland.  In  reality 
Judge  Carey  fully  deserves  such,  as  Greeley 
is  indebted  to  Horace  Greeley,  so  Wheatland 
to  Joseph  M.  Carey.  I  cannot  be  positive 
as  to  the  date  but  this  interview  with  the 
Judge  and   I   must  have  been   in   1882. 

About  this  date  the  reputation  of  this  sec- 
tion got  broadcast  as  being  especially  adapted 
for  range  cattle.  In  fact  there  were  some 
herds  here  already;  there  were  Kent,  a  bank- 
er from  Cheyenne,  Hick  Rue,  F.  M.  Phillips, 
Nagle  on  the  Sybille  Creek.  In  fact  I  even 
caught  the  infection  of  putting  some  cattle 
on  the  range.  Having  got  the  news  of  a 
man  that  went  by  the  name  of  French  Joe 
at  the  road  crossing  of  La  Bonte  Creek,  he 
kept  a  road  ranch  which  means  supplied 
meals  and  lodging,  beer  and  whisky.  He 
had  a  French  woman  and  they  wished  to  sell 
at  a  sacrifice.  I  had  been  over  this  section 
of  country  heretofore,  and  to  my  judgment 
no  better  range  country  lay  out  of  doors,  so 
Joe  and  I  closed  the  deal  for  the  place  and 
all  its  contents.  I  remember  well  several 
barrels  of  beer,  part  of  barrel  of  whiskey, 
from  this  you  will  readily  infer  I  was  doubly 
primed.  One  thing  still  lingers  in  memory, 
we  sat  chatting  until  dark  then  to  bed,  we 
had  a  shake  down  on  the  floor  for  the  two 
girls.  Knowing  their  own  beds  it  was  not 
necessary  to  get  a  light  in  turning  their  bed, 
when  rattle,  rattle,  here  was  a  large  rattle 
snake,  a  light  was  procured  when  I  dispatch- 
ed him,  having  nine  rattlers.  Very  singular, 
this  was  the  only  rattle  snake  I  saw  in  this 
section.     In  the  meantime   I  had  left  a  man 


12 


to  look  after  the  Laramie  ranch  while  I  was 
gone. 

Some  three  miles  up  the  creek,  there  was 
a  settler  by  the  name  of  Daily,  or  Long  Daily 
as  he  was  generally  known  by  I  forget  his 
height,  but  he  was  above  six  feet  and  when 
he  was  mounted  on  a  small  pony  his  feet  al- 
most touched  the  ground.  He  was  very  so- 
ciable and  gave  much  information  about  the 
range  and  how  his  cattle  fared  especially 
during  the  winter;  for  a  few  days  wife  and  I 
talked  over  the  situation,  when  a  man  rode 
up  to  the  ranch,  and  had  dinner;  he  inform- 
ed me  he  had  2,500  head  of  cattle  on  the 
road  and  was  looking  to  some  place  to  hold 
them  to  get  branded,  he  wished  to  know  if 
I  would  allow  him  to  hold  them  on  the 
creek  until  he  could  brand  them.  I  gave  my 
consent  at  once,  the  cattle  got  on  the  creek 
next  day,  so  he  took  some  of  his  men  and 
hired  some  others,  cut  down  cottonwood, 
built  corral  and  shoots,  one  man  hired  to 
haul  firewood  for  the  branding  irons,  one 
man  to  attend  to  heating  the  irons,  this  man's 
name  was   Garth,  a   Missourian. 

During  the  preliminary  work  getting  ready 
to  brand  he  talked  of  selling  the  herd,  and 
went  so  far  as  to  price  them,  and  tried  to  sell 
to  me,  I  told  him  the  bite  was  too  large  to 
chin,  that  there  was  too  much  money  in- 
volved for  me  to  tackle,  but  he  kept  urging 
me  to  buy  and  said  we  could  arrange  the 
money  matters.  However,  I  agreed  to  tally 
them  as  they  went  through  the  shoots.  I 
think  it  took  about  two  weeks  to  finish  brand- 
ing, by  this  time  I  had  made  up  my  mind  not 
to  buy.  The  cattle  were  too  thin  and  tender 
footed,  so  I  told  Mr.  Garth  I  would  not  risk 
the  purchase,  but  offered  to  sell  the  ranch 
reasonable  and  told  him  about  the  good 
range,  etc.  Finally  we  came  to  terms  about 
the  sale  of  the  ranch,  so  we  hiked  back  to 
the  Laramie  ranch  having  made  a  little  mon- 
ey by  the  transaction.  At  this  date  1884 
there  was  great  influx  of  new  men  invading 
the  country,  hailing  from  the  east  princi- 
pally, even  from  across  the  Atlantic,  the 
Scotch  were  signally  represented,  among  this 
motley  of  prospective  cattlemen,  there  were 
two,  by  name  Tishmacher,  and  De  Billier, 
who  stopped  with  me  a  few  days  looking 
over  the  country,  with  the  view  of  embark- 
ing in  the  cattle  business.  The  conditions 
seemed  to  them  as  being  most  suitable,  finally 
they  approached  me  if  I  would  feel  like  sell- 
ing my  ranch,  after  a  good  deal  quibbling 
we  came  to  terms  as  to  price  which  seemed 
reasonable  to  each  of  us.  As  the  saying  goes 
I   am   Scot  free. 

Now  what  was  the  next  step  to  take  in  our 
journey  through  life?  Then  we  decided  as 
we  had  had  fourteen  years  of  a  strenuous 
ranch  life,  we  deserved  a  vacation,  and  would 
pay  our  friends  a  visit,  our  friends  on  our 
native  heath  in  County  Antrim,  Ireland, 
where  youth  had  its  joyful  days.  In  due  time 
we  arrived  with  our  friends  which  was  a 
joyful  meeting  to  all  of  us.  Three  months 
or  so  was  spent  with  so  much  felicity  I  can- 
not describe. 

Arrived  in  Cheyenne,  now  the  next  move 
in  our  career,  we  were  now  unfit  for  anything 
but  ranching  so  the  country  was  looked  over, 


we  had  decided  we  had  enough  roughing  it 
on  the  frontier,  so  looked  at  an  old  settled 
section  on  Little  Horse  creek.  Having  de- 
cided on  this  location  I  purchased  three  small 
settlers,  and  made  an  extensive  ranch,  built 
fine  house  and  barn,  refenced,  reditched  all 
the  land,  got  all  in  fine  shape  to  handle  small 
bunch  of  fine  cattle.  Got  stocked  with  the 
first  Herefords  in  this  section  paying  $400.00 
each  for  four  weaned  calves  from  George 
Morgan  at  what  is  known  as  the  Hereford 
Ranch.  If  my  memory  is  not  at  fault  this 
Morgan  brought  the  first  Hereford  cattle 
that  came  to  the  State.  With  the  exception 
of  one  calf,  the  sale  he  made  to  me  was  the 
first  he  made,  now  they  are  the  principle 
breed  all  over  the  West. 

I  finally  got  enlarging  myself  too  much, 
then  organized  a  company  and  through  this 
inadvertent  step,  lost  my  ranch,  I  and  my 
family  had  been  so  many  years  of  toil  and 
hardship  to  build  up.  Paid  every  dollar  I 
justly  owed  and  arrived  in  Cheyenne  with 
my  family,  this  gave  my  children  an  oppor- 
tunity to  get  to  a  good  school,  as  this  was 
lacking  at   our   ranch. 

About  'this  time  the  Department  of  Agri- 
culture decided  on  the  establishment  of  ani 
experiment  farm  at  Cheyenne  which  was  toj 
test  dry  farming  and  a  limited  amount  of 
irrigation.  Being  experienced  in  this  line  of 
work  and  foot  loose,  I  took  the  necessary 
examination  and  was  successful  in  securing 
the  position  as  manager  of  the  experiment 
farm,  which  I  conducted  for  ten  years  with' 
satisfaction  to  the  Department,  to  show  their 
appreciation  of  my  services,  they  favored  me 
with  a  vacation  of  three  months,  to  visit 
Australia  and  make  an  examination  of  their 
irrigation  which  I  done  and  made  a  full  re- 
port of  all  conditions  on  my  return. 

During  the  ten  years  the  farm  was  in 
operation  it  was  considered  all  the  plans  and 
experiments  outlined  had  been  satisfactorily 
wrought  out  so  no  further  experiments  were'l 
necessary.  In  the  meantime  had  lost  my? 
youngest  daughter,  my  second  daughter  had 
married  and  had  a  home  of  her  home.  My 
■son  having  a  farm  at  Worland,  Wyoming, 
wife  and  I  being  alone  decided  to  establish 
ourselves  with  my  son  so  shook  the  dust  of) 
Cheyenne  regretfully  from  our  feet  and  mov- 
ed to  Worland.  Here  I  met  the  most  severe 
calamity  of  all,  in  the  death  of  my  beloved 
wife,  who  had  fought  the  battle  of  life  with} 
me  in  the  West  for  half  a  century  under- 
going all  the  trials  of  frontier  life,  without 
the  slightest  repining. 

Now  I  am  at  sea  again.  However  I  havef 
my  son  as  above  stated  and  one  daughter. 
This  daughter's  health  became  somewhat  im- 
oaired  so  sh~  and  husband  decided  to  try 
California  climate  and  see  what  effect  it 
would  would  have  in  the  recuperation  of 
health,  the  climate  seemed  to  have  a  bene- 
ficial effect  and  decided  to  locate;  there  plans 
were  all  matured,  and  arrangements  were'; 
finally  consummated,  I  was  to  make  my 
home  with  them  for  the  future.  But  alas, 
we  know  not  what  a  day  may  bring  forth, 
unexpectedly  my  daughter  took  sick  and  in 
spite  of  all  the  efforts  that  could  be  made  for 
her  recovery,  finally  departed  this  life.     Her 


13 


dying  injunction  to  her  husband  was  to  look 
after  the  welfare  of  her  father,  which  he  has 
so  faithfully  done. 

I  He  purchased  a  farm  and  is  in  the  chicken 
business,  his  brother  and  wife  are  with  him, 
and  really  making  their  home  with  him.  Mr. 
Lawson  looks  after  the  house  and  his  brother 
assists  in  the  business.  I  have  a  garden 
which  I  love  to  cultivate  and  make  plants 
of  all  kinds  grow  to  perfection;  this  is  my 
career  up  to  my  four  score  year,  a  truthful 
statement  without  the  slightest  elaboration. 
(Signed)     JOHN   H.    GORDON. 


EARLY  DAYS  IN  THE  WEST 
By  T.  H.  McGEE 

In  1855  I  freighted  from  Leavenworth  to 
Fort  Kearney.  In  1856  I  went  out  to  Fort 
Laramie.  In  1857  I  reached  Devils'  Gate  at 
Riverton,  Wyoming,  freighting  corn  for 
Johnson's  army.  There  was  a  Mormon  up- 
rising at  the  time.  I  went  back  home  and 
came  out  to  Fort  Laramie  again  in  1858.  In 
1857  I  went  from  Riverton  to  Laramie  and 
there  to  Denver  with_  a  six  yoke  ox  team. 
On  that  trip,  on  the  spot  where  Harry  Farth- 
ing's ranch  is  now  we  met  up  with  a  bunch 
of  green  boys  whose  mules  had  been  run 
off  by  Indians,  except  one  old  mule  that 
woutd  not  leave  the  corral.  The  boys  were 
oadly  scared  and  had  unloaded  their  wagons 
md  made  a  barricade.  These  Indians  had 
bothered  my  Irian  a  day  or  so  earlier  but  as 
there  were  twenty-six  ox  teams  and  quite  a 
few  men,  they  did  not  attack  us.  I  got  the 
-heumatism  very  badly  this  trip  and  the  boys 
had  to  lift  me  on  and  off  the  wagon  but  I 
could  drive  ell  right.  I  soaked  flannel  rags 
in  kerosene  and  wrapped  them  around  my 
legs  and  soon  got  O.  K. 

In  1860,  April  14th,  I  left  Fort  Worth, 
Texas,  with  a  trail  herd.  In  six  weeks  we 
were  opposite  St.  Joe.  We  couldn't  sell  them 
and  took  them  to  Grand  Prairie,  Illinois. 
We  crossed  the  Missouri  at  Nebraska  City. 
The  people  caused  us  lots  of  riding;  they 
would  try  to  see  the  cattle  and  these  wild 
aid  long  horns  would  stampede,  and  run  for 
miles.  I  had  a  horse  and  a  mule  for  the 
whole  trip.  To  cross  the  river,  we  tried  to 
:erry  them  and  got  some  over — some  swam 
icross.  We  crossed  the  Mississippi  at  Musk- 
ateen  in  the  same  way  and  drove  them  into 
Chicago  in  bunches  of  about.  150  to  200  head. 
They  were  hard  to  get  onto  the  ferry.  The 
boss  was  old  Captain  Harris,  a  retired  army 
;aptain  from  the  Mexican  war.  He  was  a 
hard  drinker  and  didn't  stay  with  us  if  we 
were  near  a  town.  I  finally  went  up  to  the 
hotel  and  asked  him  how  we  were  to  cross 
those  cattle.  He  swore  and  said  to  do  any- 
thing but  to  get  them  across  somehow.  I 
went  back  and  we  tried  to  swim  them  over. 
We  tied  the  bell  steer  to  a  boat  and  led  him 
nit  he  would  not  swim,  just  floated,  and  only 
ibout  80  crossed  with  him.  Thirty-five  head 
drifted  eight  miles  down  river  to  an  island. 
We  finally  got  them  off  in  a  boat.  We  went 
sack  over  the  road  picking  up  cattle  all  along 
that  we  had  lost  coming.  There  were  very 
tew  fences  even  in  Kansas  at  that  time  or  in 
Illinois,  but  the  farmers  who  were  scattered 


along  just  settling  were  afraid  of  the  Texas 
cattle  bringing  Spanish  fever  (tick  or  Texas 
fever  were  other  names)  to  their  milk  stock, 
and  they  fought  us  back  all  they  could.  We 
had  to  cross  part  of  Oklahoma  or  the  Osage 
Reserve  near  Cherokee  and  when  these  men 
turned  us  back  we  went  four  miles  west  of 
Topeka  in  a  little  dry  creek  and  a  man  came 
after  us  there.  I  told  the  Mexican  to  say 
"No  savee"  and  I  pretended  to  be  asleep. 
The  man  had  been  sent  out  ot  meet  us  and 
guide  us  by  some  of  the  owners  and  he  had 
had  an  awful  time  trying  to  find  us  and  was 
at  his  wits  end  nearly,  so  I  decided  to  wake 
up  and  tell  him  he  had  found  us.  He  was 
hired  to  guide  us  past  the  farmers  through 
Kansas,  Nebraska  and  Iowa,  that  is,  different 
men  were  hired  for  each  locality  to  pilot  the 
herds.  We  would  tell  the  farmers  we  had 
come  from   Cherokee. 

In  1856  I  crossed  the  South  Platte  at  Cali- 
fornia crossing  on  my  way  to  Fort  Laramie 
by  ox  team  on  the  Ash  Hollow  route.  At 
that  time,  along  the  Platte  was  nothing  but 
mud  flats,  horned  toads  and  buffalos.  I 
wouldn't  have  taken  the  whole  thing  for  a 
gift  if  you  had  offered  it  to  me.  It  was  the 
most  desolate  looking  place   I  ever  saw. 

There  was  no  Wyoming  then.  It  was  all 
called  the  Dakotas.  There  were  lots  of  In- 
dians. The  Government  was  making  a  treaty 
of  some  sort  with  them.  As  the  wagon  train 
went  along,  Indians  could  be  seen  nearly  all 
the  time.  One  of  the  boys  insulted  an  In- 
dian some  how  and  the  Indian  stalked  the 
wagon  train  for  days  with  a  gun,  so  that  the 
white  boy  had  to  lie  hidden  in  the  wagons 
during  the  trip. 

In  the  winter  of  1857  we  wintered  up  on 
the  Sibylee  and  those  ox  teams  were  the 
first  cattle  ever  wintered  in  Wyoming.  I 
built  a  cabin  of  cotton  wood  logs  where  the 
old  Two  Bar  ranch  is  now.  There  was  a 
good  plain  road  then,  tracked  over  by  thou- 
sands of  immigrants  and  freighters. 

Some  of  the  men  who  were  contemporary 
with  me  in  the  freighting  were  Mr.  Whit- 
comb,  Lou  Simpson,  Fred  Draper  who  was 
killed  at  Memphis,  Tennessee,  in  '58,  High 
Kelley  and  Tom  Maxwell  who  was  on  the 
stage  route. 

There  was  a  mule  outfit  left  the  river  at 
the  same  time  I  did  with  ox  teams  and  I  beat 
them  into  Laramie  by  two  weeks.  There 
was  a  man  named  Williams,  an  old  "bull- 
whacker"  who  was  abused  by  the  Simpson 
mentioned  above  and  they  got  in  a  fight  and 
Williams   pulled   his   gun   and  shot   Simpson. 

Beggs  and  Russel  were  big  Government 
contractors  then.  Russel  died  in  Denver 
ten  or  fifteen  years  ago  but  his  children  are 
still  in  Wyoming  somewhere.  Oliver  Gooden 
was  wagon  master  for  them. 

On  March  26,  1859,  we  freighted  from  Lar- 
amie to  Camp  Floyd  at  Provo,  Utah.  We 
left  the  wagons  at  Salt  Lake,  sold  the  cattle 
to  be  trailed  to  California  and  started  back 
with  eight  wagons  and  sixty  men  for  Ne- 
braska  City. 

Jim  Hines  was  wagon  master  and  John 
Donaldson  assisted.  Hines  left  at  Green 
River,    Wyoming,    on    account    of   bad    eyes. 


14 


Donaldson  later  went  to  Virginia  City  on  a 
survey  and  died  soon  after. 

After  staying  at  home  for  two  years  and 
spending  six  months  in  the  Confederate  army 
I  started  freighting  again  in  1862.  This  time 
I  went  to  Fort  Union,  New  Mexico,  with  Ed 
Gleason  as  wagon  boss,  and  Pat-somebody 
(name  forgotten)  as  assistant.  Pat  later  had 
a  copper  mine  in  Montana. 

The  winter  of  1863,  I  freighted  to  Fort 
Garland  with  Tom  Fields  as  assistant  wagon 
master.  We  wintered  the  cattle  at  Garland 
and  went  up  the  Santo  Christo  trail.  That 
winter  was  the  worst  winter  I  ever  saw. 
There  were  two  feet  of  snow  on  the  trail. 
We  could  not  get  through.  The  Govern- 
ment sent  out  a  hundred  soldiers  from  Gar- 
land to  help  us.  We  unloaded  the  freight 
and  never  did  get  it  all.  It  took  us  thirty 
days  to  go  one  mile.  We  had  half  mules 
and  half  oxen.  Seventeen  men  quit,  although 
they  were  hired  by  the  round  trip  and  I 
was  sent  back  with  them.  It  was  the  cold- 
est winter  I  ever  experienced  in  the  west. 
There  was  solid  snow  from  Colorado  to  the 
Mississippi. 

For  eight  days  we  lived  on  one  meal  a  day 
and  we  had  lots  of  "grub,"  it  was  fire  wood 
we  could  not  find.  Two  men  would  ride  in 
the  wagon  and  the  others  walk.  We  took 
turns.  We  fed  the  cattle,  shelled  corn  and 
kept  them  chained  to  the  wagons  when  not 
driving  them.  The  buffalo  were  hungry  and 
cold  and  bothered  us  all  the  time.  In  camp 
the  men  kept  hollering  one  night  for  me 
to  shoot  the  buffalo.  I  had  the  only  gun,  so 
got  up  and  got  mv  gun,  an  old  cap  and  ball, 
muzzle  loader  and  banked  away  but  it  did 
not  go  off.  After  a  while  it  fired  and  I  saw 
one  pick  up  its  feet  queerly  as  it  went  over 
a  little  rise.  I  said,  "Boys,  get  the  ox  team 
and  haul  in  that  buffalo  for  meat."  They 
did  not  believe  I  had  dropped  one  but  went 
to  see  and  came  back  dragging  a  fine,  fat, 
dry,  cow  buffalo.  We  took  the  hind  quar- 
ters and  hung  them  to  the  wagon.  We  would 
only  skin  as  we  used  it  and  the  meat  kept 
very  well. 

There  was  a  big  fellow  named  Spencer 
among  the  men.  He  was  a  Michigan  lumber- 
jack and  he  wanted  to  kill  a  buffalo  himself, 
so  I  loaned  him  my  gun  and  he  shot  a  big 
buffalo  calf.  When  he  got  up  to  the  calf 
it  jumped  up  and  began  to  fight.  They  were 
both  out  on  ice  cakes  in  the  Arkansas  river 
and  it  was  sure  a  fine  battle;  first  one,  then 
the  other  would  be  on  top.  We  were  betting 
on  the  calf  too,  if  it  hadn't  been  on  the  ice, 
but  Spencer  finally  killed  it  with  a  bowie 
knife.  A  buffalo  calf  will  fight  when  it's 
three  days  old,  maybe  younger.  The  thou- 
sands of  buffalo  were  held  back  by  the  ice 
on  the  Arkansas  that  year,  where  they  were 
accustomed  to  cross  for  wintering. 

We  left  Fort  Pawnee  in  the  morning  and 
crossing  Nine  Mile  Ridge  that  December 
morning  in  1863,  it  was  40  degrees  below 
zero,  a  foot  of  snow  and  a  high  wind.  I 
wrapped  an  old  coat  and  a  buffalo  robe 
around  my  body  and  walked  ahead,  tramp- 
ing out  a  trail  and  looking  for  a  good  camo- 
ing  place.  Finally  I  called  to  the  men  to 
come  on  and  I  began  to  chop  wood  and  pile 


it  up.  When  they  did  not  come  I  climbec 
back  on  the  ridge  to  see  what  was  the  mat- 
ter. They  were  all  bunched  up.  I  called 
to  them  and  went  back  to  my  fire  making. 
Still  no  sign  of  them  so  I  went  back  again 
and  I  just  had  to  knock  and  punch  them 
into  action.  They  were  freezing  and  hated 
to  move.  Meanwhile  I  couldn't  make  a  fire 
in  the  snow,  so  I  took  an  old  pine  store-box'< 
out  of  the  wagon  and  split  it  up  fine  and 
made  a  fire  in  the  dish  pan  in  the  wagon. 
When  it  got  big  enough  I  set  it,  pan  and  all, 
outside.  Soon  we  had  a  roaring  fire  and 
when  bed  time  came  we  pulled  the  fire  over 
a  ways  and  put  our  beds  where  the  fire  hadf 
been.  We  slept  warm.  We  had  the  oxen 
chained  to  trees  and  fed  them  shelled  corn, 
but  I  was  afraid  all  that  night  that  they 
would  freeze  standing  there.  Next  morn- 
ing we  got  to  a  place  owned  by  Charley 
Root,  a  "squaw  man"  and  there  we  got  hay1' 
and  rested  ourselves  up  a  little. 

When  we  got  to  Council  Grove,  which  is 
125  miles  from  Leavenworth,  the  boys  hired  I 
a  team.  They  wanted  to  get  in  quickly  on  i 
account  of  frozen  feet  and  so  on.  They 
reached  Leavenworth  in  the  evening  and  I 
got  in  next  morning.  I  went  500  miles  in 
twenty-one   days   with   my   oxen. 

After  this  trip  I  helped  a  man  named  Ad- 
ams to  collect  300  head  of  oxen  around  Man- 
hattan, Kansas.  When  that  was  done  I  got 
a  lot  of  ponies  and  drove  them  into  Leaven- 
worth where  I  sold  them  at  auction. 

In  1864,  I  went  with  a  freighting  outfit  to 
Fort  Union,  New  Mexico.     It  is  an  old  Mexi- 
can   fort    near    Santa    Fe.      We    crossed    the! 
Hornalla    (Jornado  ?)      It    is    a    desert    sixty] 
miles   long.      I   think   it   is   called  the   Staked 
Plains   now.      I    saw  the   place   there,   where 
500  mules  and  a  lot  of  soldiers  died  of  star-] 
vation   and  thirst.      It  is   at   the  head  of  the 
Cimmarron.      The   bones    lie   there   in    heaps 
for  some  distance.     The  government  sent  re-: 
lief  and  rescued  a  few  of  the  men,  but  nearly 
all  died,   not  knowing  where  to   go   and   not 
having  any  food  or  water  stored  up  against 
such    a    trip.      They    were    just    learning   the . 
trails   then. 

We  traveled  all  night  with  only  an  hour's 
rest.     We  had  to  lock  the  wheels  to  keep  the ' 
cattle  from  running  to  water  when  we  reach- 
ed it.     They  were  crazy  to  jump  into  it,  and  J 
bawling  something  terrible. 

That  fall  I  left  the  river.     There  were  two 
trains  of  freight  wagons.     One  was  in  charge 
of   Tom   Fields   and   one   in   charge   of  Jerry 
Fields.     We  left  one  train  at  Laramie.     Tom  J 
Fields  went  on.     We  went  over  a  new  route  i 
that  time,  because  so  many  teams  had  been  ] 
going  over  the  road,  that  there  was  no  grass. 
They  left  me  for  a  while  with  some  sore  foot-  I 
ed   cattle.     W?  were  on  the  road  all  winter 
that    year.      We    got    into    Leavenworth    the  j 
fourteenth   of   June    and   made   two   trips   to  j 
Lyons. 

In  1865,  I  went  to  Salt  Lake  as  wagon 
boss  for  Johnny  Freeland  who  owned  the  i 
outfit.  Young  Freeland  was  assistant  wagon 
master.  When  Freeland  went  on  ahead  into 
Salt  Lake  City,  Simonds  was  in  his  place. 
Johnny  Thomas  was  a  man  who  belonged 
in   the   other   train.      There   were   two   trains 


15 


f  us  this  time  too.  He  fell  out  with  the 
len  and  asked  me  if  he  could  join  our  train; 
gave  him  a  place.  At  Rock  Springs  some 
f  our  cattle  got  mixed  up  with  the  cattle 
f  the  other  train  and  I  sent  Thomas  after* 
hem.  The  men  with  whom  Thomas  had 
illen  out  before,  raised  an  ugly  row  and 
'homas  shot  at  one  of  them  and  hit  Simonds 

I  the  leg.  Before  he  could  get  medical  at- 
ention  he  died  of  blood  poisoning.  Free- 
ind  sold  the  cattle  to  an  outfit  freighting 
3  Montana  and  Thomas  stayed  with  the 
attle. 

I  came  back  from  Salt  Lake  on  the  stage 
oach.  It  took  seventeen  days  and  nights 
rom  Salt  Lake  to  Atchison,  Kansas,  which 
re  reached  on  Christmas  day.  Then  a  man 
amed  Ed  Lee  and  I  ran  a  train  for  a  man 
samed  Salisbury. 

But  to  get  back  to  the  stage  trip.  Near 
he  old  California  Crossing  the  stage  driver 
ell  asleep  and  struck  a  telephone  pole  and 
pset.  The  driver  seemed  useless,  but  I  in- 
isted  he  could  splice  the  tongue  with  the 
sad  lines  so  it  would  hqld  until  we  got  to  a 
oad  house.  There  were  Bill  and  Jess  Travis, 
/ho  were  horse  auctioneers  from  Virginia 
Ety,  Nevada,  Doc  Shales  and  Mr.  Post, 
welve  other,  boys  and  I  in  the  coach.     We 

II  walked  except  Jess  Travis  whose  back 
/as-h^lrt.  Bill  Travis  was  taking  his  brother 
ack  to  Chicago  for  treatment. 

Doc  Shales  had  200  pounds  of  gold  dust 
/ith  him.  He  had  a  gun  and  was  anxious 
ver  his  dust.  When  the.  coach  upset,  Doc 
ad  lost  his  gun  some  how  and  when  we 
/ere  tramping  along,  we  met  two  soldiers 
nd  Doc  gave  them  five  dollars  to  go  and 
md  his  gun  and  bring  it  to  him.  We  never 
aw  the  soldiers  or  the  gun  again.  When 
/e  got  to  Denver  the  army  quarter-master 
hartered  the  ^oach  and  offered  Shales  $24.00 
,n  ounce  for  his  gold  in  greenbacks  but  he 
vould  not  take  it.  He  said  he  would  take 
I  to  Washington  to  be  coined. 
.  This  man,  Post,  used  to  have  a  bank  in 
Cheyenne  which  went  to  the  wall  later.  At 
his  time  he  used  to  mow  hay  with  a  scythe 
outh  of  Chevenne  and  haul  it  to  Denver  and 
ell  it  for  $80.00  a  ton. 

I  lived  seven  or  eight  years  on  my  land 
•efore  I  filed  claim  on  it.  I  proved  up  in 
wo  years.  I  hauled  quaking  aspen  trees 
rom  the  hills  and  fenced  some.  I  bought 
ighteen  or  twenty  Montana  steers  out  of  a 
rail  herd  going  through;  they  were  sore 
ooted  so  were  for  sale.  We  never  weaned 
.ny  calves  and  never  fed  any  cattle  in  wili- 
er until  late  in  the  80's. 

Cheyenne  was  a  tough  cow  town.  There 
las  a  Vigilance  Committee  in  those  days. 

During  roundups  and  while  herding  we 
vere  bothered  by  buffalo.  They  mixed  with 
he  cattle  causing  much  trouble  and  many 
ights.  We  shot  them  wholesale.  There 
vere  many  men  making  a  living  from  skin- 
ling  buffalo  and  the  hides  only  sold  for 
ibout  a  dollar.  They  rapidly  disappeared 
n  the  70's.  I  killed  one  at  the  ranch  in 
876  right  by  the  corral. 

There  were  hundreds  of  antelope  every- 
vhere.  In  1858  up  on  the  Sibylee  near  Lara- 
n ie   we   watched   one  band   of   them  passing 


for  two  hours,  several  thousands  of  them, 
moving  their  range  from  the  mountains  to 
the  flats.  In  the  fall  Mr.  Whitcomb  caught 
eighteen  antelope  in  the  snow. one  morning 
with  dogs.  Three  were  many  bands  of  forty 
or  fifty  deer  to  be  seen  near  the  mountains 
at  any  time.  In  1856,  while  driving  about 
twenty  ox  teams  we  ran  into  so  many  thou- 
sands of  buffalo  on  the  Little  Blue  river  in 
Kansas  that  we  had  to  put  guards  night  and 
day  for  three  hundred  miles  to  protect  the 
oxen. 

In  a  terrible  blizzard  in  1871,  we  were 
living  in  a  house  made  of  box  boards  with 
a  sod  chimney.  The  chimney  caught  on  fire 
and  we  had  to  put  the  fire  out. 

I  never  lost  a  man  by  Indians  in  twelve 
years  of  freighting.  In  1876  we  were  at- 
tacked by  Indians  who  were  thieving,  ten 
or  twelve  miles  east  of  Pine  Bluffs.  I  had 
twenty-six  wagons.  Some  of  the  men  went 
down  to  Pole  Creek  to  water  some  of  the 
sorenecked  cattle.  They  saw  the  Indians 
watching  from  the  hills  and  they  warned  the 
rest  of  us  who  were  busy  loosing  the  cattle 
and  making  a  corral.  Guns  were  slung  on 
loops  on  the  outside  of  the  wagons.  We  all 
got  together.  Two  of  the  boys  had  saddle 
horses  and  were  determined  to  see  the  In- 
dians for  themselves.  We  were  on  a  slight 
elevation.  The  two  boys  rode  out  into  the 
space  between  the  creek  and  the  bluffs.  The 
Indians  cut  them  off  from  coming  back  at 
once,  then  those  boys  saw  the  Indians  and 
what  a  race  it  was!  There  were  about 
twenty  of  us  ambushed  in  a  draw  ready  to 
"get  them  as  they  went  by,  but  the  two  boys 
were  so  scared  they  gave  us  away  by  stop- 
ping and  the  Indians  dashed  away  out  of 
range.     They   circled  till   10  in  the  morning. 

About  1872,  I  farmed  in  Missouri  and  got 
twenty  cents  for  husked  corn.  Hauled  oats 
ten  miles  and  sold  it  at  twenty-six  cents. 

I  ran  a  round-up  in  Weld  County,  Col- 
orado, for  four  years  for  J.  W.  Auliff.  It 
comprised  about  forty  thou -and  cattle.  Some- 
times we  would  hold  five  thousand  cattle  in 
one  bunch.  In  1882  I  shipped  two  cars  of 
beef  to  Chicago  and  got  sixty-five  dollars 
a  head.  I  sold  two  hundred  head  of  horses 
at  twelve  dollars  and  a  half  a  head.  On  the 
round-up  the  cowboys  worked  from  4  A.  M. 
till  9  P.  M.  There  was  a  captain  to  each 
squad  and  each  squad  circled  in  short  cir- 
cles and  held  the  cattle  brought  in.  Squads 
changed  and  each  sought  his  Own  cattle  out 
of  each  bunch.  Each  outfit  had  its  own 
chuck  outfit.  Often  it  would  take  all  day  to 
separate  cattle. 

In  1876  we  had  eighteen  cavoy  yards,  so 
many  men  assigned  to  move  cattle  and  a  few 
to  circle.  We  always  branded  the  calves  as 
we  found  them  on  the  range. 

Cheyenne  was  a  tough  town  of  cowmen, 
gamblers,  soldiers,  desperadoes.  Charley 
Martin  and  Mosier  were  hung  for  murder. 
Cheyenne  had  a  vigilance  committee  all  the 
time. 

The  cattle  men  went  out  to  get  cattle  rust- 
lers in  the  "cattleman's  war."  The  rustlers 
met  them  and  shut  them  up  in  a  cabin  on  a 
mountain  side.  Mr.  Gilchrist  and  I  notified 
Washington.      Soldiers    arrived   just   in   time 


10 


to  prevent  the  cattlemen  from  being  burned 
to  death.  Many  of  the  rustlers  were  des- 
peradoes from  all  over  the  west  and  would 
stop  at  nothing. 

In  October,  1871,  there  was  a  snow  two 
feet  deep  which  crusted  and  lay  all  winter. 
Auliff  lost  three  thousand  head  of  Texas 
cattle  that  year.  S.  B.  Hunter  moved  sheep 
up  to  Jackson's  Springs  and  I  was  out  rid- 
ing one  day  when  a  terrible  blizzard  came 
up.  I  had  a  post-bar  (railroad  pinch  bar) 
with  me  and  my  hands  nearly  froze  before  I 
got  home.  Two  men  from  Jaegers  with 
lumber  came  up  to  Duck  Creek.  Hunter 
started  out  after  the  posts  at  about  two 
o'clock.  There  was  an  awful  storm  and 
he  did  not  get  back.  I  wrapped  up  well  and 
started  to  look  for  him.  A  spring  ran  down 
to  the  main  road  so  I  followed  its  course. 
I  found  the  wagon.  The  old  man  had  gone 
to  look  for  the  ranchmen  who  brought  the 
posts.  Standing  in  the  road  I  fired  my 
pistol  and  he  found  me.  We  got  back  about 
eight  o'clock  and  the  old  man's  heavy  beard 
was  solid  ice. 

This  man  Auliff  and  two  Durbins,  Tom 
Kent  and  Banten  and  Kirkendall  were  the 
stock  association.  A.  Banten  got  on  a  drunk 
and  killed  a  brother  named  Brian.  The  Ban- 
tens  are  gone  now.  Two  men  by  the  name 
of  Coffee  settled  where  I  built  a  cabin  on 
Sib3rlee.  The  road  through  old  Fort  Wal- 
bach  went  over  through  the  Lannen  place. 
It  go  so  in  later  3'ears  of  freighting  that  the 
grass  got  so  short  along  the  wagon  trails, 
that  we  had  to  go  back  three  or  four  miles 
to  get  feed. 

I  sent  the  assistant  wagon  master  one 
trip  to  Denver  to  take  some  men  back  from 
the  Farthing  place  while  I  went  down  the 
Poudre  to  old  Fort  Morgan  and  camped 
till  the  teams  came  back.  Then  I  went  to 
Julesburg  and  loaded  with  corn  for  Fort 
Casper.  The  man  I  loaded  for  was  named 
Wright.  I  pulled  out  of  Nebraska  City  in 
July  and  never  heard  of  Wright  for  five 
months.  I  unloaded  the  corn  at  Casper  and 
pulled  into  Laramie,  then  went  into  winter 
quarters  on  the  Chug.  There  were  no  set- 
tlements. I  had  no  money,  so  I  took  the 
best  steers  of  the  ox  team  and  sold  them  in 
Laramie.  About  three  hours  after  I  met 
Wright.  He  had  been  very  sick.  He  hired 
me  to  go  back  to  Leavenworth  and  then  to 
Texas  where  he  wanted  to  buy  cattle,  trail 
them  to  Wyoming  and  run  them  on  the 
Sibylee.  He  took  sick  again  so  I  went  back 
to  Missouri. 

There  was  a  braggart  with  the  outfit  once 
who  was  always  killing  scores  of  Indians  in 
his  mind.  The  boys  framed-up  on  him.  A 
bunch  went  and  hid  in  a  clump  of  willows, 
then  the  night  herder  told  the  rest  of  us  that 
his  favorite  steer  was  mired  down  by  that 
willow  clump.  We,  and  the  braggart,  hur- 
ried down  to  get  him  out.  Suddenly  came 
a  burst  of  gun  fire  from  the  willows.  We  all 
fell  as  if  shot,  all  except  our  brave  hero  who 
ran  and  hid  in  the  wagon  from  which  place 
we  dragged  him  when  we  got  back. 

In  1864  at  Plumb  Creek  on  the  Platte,  I 
loaded  out  for  Denver.  On  one  of  the  wa- 
gons bossed  by  another  man  was  a  fourteen 


year  old  boy.  The  man  gave  him  a  beating 
and  he  came  over  to  my  wagons.  I  told  him 
he  had  better  go  back  to  his  dad's  outfit  and 
he  said,  "I'll  go,  but  he  had  better  let  me 
alone."  The  man  jumped  him  again  and  the 
boy  shot  him  in  the  breast  with  buck-shot. 
The  father  wanted  to  have  the  boy  arrested 
but  they  let  him  off  and  he  ran  the  outfit 
then. 

July,  1922. 


(Corrected  as  to  spelling  and  capitalization) 

Dayton,  Ohio,  Jan.  29,  '03. 

Have  received  book  and  letter  Jan.  23,  '03, 
four  years  I  got  one  of  General  Miles  book, 
one  volume  600  pages  full  of  pictures  called 
from   New   England   to   the   Golden    Gate   or 
General  Miles,  20  years  on  the   Plains  with 
general  photos.     It  is  a  heavy  book  printed 
by  Werner  &  Company,  Chicago  and  at  Ak- 
ron, Ohio.     Your  book  is  interesting  reading, 
Bridger  and  other  scouts  whom  I  seen,  also 
photos  of  Forts  Casper,  Fetterman,  Laramie, 
Reno,  which  looks  natural  to  me  I  have  not 
seen    since    1868,    abandoned    now.      I    never 
forget   the   hardships   18   U.   S.    Infantry  had 
seen  in  1865-68;  few  living  yet  that  had  good 
constitution,  to  march  from  Kansas  City  from 
end    of    railroad    to    Fort    Leavenworth    and 
from  last  Fort  across  Kansas,  Colorado  Ter- 
ritory with  wagon  train  December  1865,  some 
died  on  the  road.    The  first  battalion  marched 
to  Forts  Riley  and  Dodge,  Kansas,  we  arriv- 
ed  last   Fort   dug  out  last   of  January    1866 
moved  out  with  cold  and  sore  feet  met  In-j 
dians  on  the  road.     We  were  iost  in  western 
Kansas  off  the  old  Santa  Fe  trail,  we  rested 
at  Fort  Dodge  Kansas.     Denver  was  a  small 
village    we    went    on    to    Fort    Collins,    Colo; 
marched    through    where     Cheyenne    is,    no 
town    and    railroad    I    seen,    that    was    May,1 
1866,  we  went  on  to   Fort   Laramie  then  up 
Platte  river  to  where  city  of  Casper  is  now. 
I   think  the   first  part  of  June   1866,   set  our 
tents    I   was   detailed   to   build   Fort    Casper, 
8  men  of  us  got  extra  pay,  rest  of  the  troops 
cut  and  hauled   logs   from   Casper   Mountain 
they  were  well  armed  on  account  of  Indians 
they  were  troublesome  then.     The  Fort  wasj 
finished  close  to  the  winter  of  1866,  roof  and 
floor    were    dirt    no    lumber.      Few    soldiers 
were   killed    near    Sweetwater   telegraph   sta- 
tion.    Late  spring  1867  we  went  to  Fort  Fet- 
terman built  that  of  sun-dried  brick  on  high 
ground,   we  left  four  troops   at   Fort   Casper 
for  guard.     I   understand  the  bridge  at  Cas-  I 
per  was  burnt   by   Indians  in   1868.      Fall  of 
1867  we  were  ordered  to  Fort  Reno,  Powder 
river,    seen    many    Indians    there    where    we 
wintered   and   guarded    supply    trains    to    Ft.  ! 
Phil   Kearney   and   night   skirmish   on   Crazy 
Woman  Creek.     We  remained  at  Fort  Reno 
till  August  1868,  when  it  was  abandoned  with 
Phil  Kearney  and  Ft.  Smith,  Montana  which 
was  a  sight,  wagons  loading  up.     Fort  Cas- 
per route  was  a  dangerous  route  we  carried 
mail    to    Bridger's    Ferry    and    Ft.    Laramie 
where   troops  lost  their  lives.      Mr.   Shallen- 
berger  of  Casper   City  in  '98  sent  me  photo 
of  that  town,  I  never  thought  of  a  town  and 
railroad.      What   a   change.      I    was   at    Fort 
Casper,   December    1866   when   we   got   news 


17 


)f  Phil  Kearney  massacre,  we  stayed  up  of 
lights  fearing  Indians  might  massacre  us. 
Fort  Reno  was  a  cold  place  in  winter  1868 
:he  guards  were  relieved  every  half  hour. 
El  September  we  arrived  at  Ft.  D.  A.  Rus- 
sell near  Cheyenne  a  small  post,  guarding 
Jnion  Pacific  Railroad  in  Wyoming,  western 
Nebraska,  the  Indians  burning  wooden  trestle 
vorks  I  was  one  of  the  guards,  Nov.  1868. 
.  was  honorably  discharged,  rheumatism  and 
icurvy  bothers  me  now,  a  trip  on  Union  Pa- 
;ific  railroad  sent  me  back  free  to  the  East 
November,  1868,  Colonel  Carrington  with 
tart  of  18th,  U.  S.  Infantry  fall  of  1865  went 
rom  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Fort  Kearney, 
Nebraska  to  winter  till  spring   1866. 

I  was  born  near  Middleton,  Pennsylvania 
1843,  10  years  old  moved  to  back  woods 
fcmntry  of  Indiana  cleared  up  the  country, 
inlisted  Indianapolis,  Indiana  November 
.865,  when  my  3  years  were  up  came  to 
Indiana  worked  on  a  farm  but  my  rheuma- 
ism  and  scurvy  bothered  me  went  to  Hot 
Springs,  Arkansas.  But  still  I  have  rheu- 
natism,  can't  work  like  used  too,  the  great 
lardships  in  the  west,  hunger  alkali  water 
lid  hurt  me.  From  Indiana  I  came  to  Day- 
on,  Ohio  sometime  ago.  The  largest  Na- 
ional  soldiers  Home  in  country  is  here,  6000 
soldiers  very  beautiful  place,  excursions 
jfifrgs  people  here  in  summer,  640  acres  in 
t  and  few  18th  U.  S.  regiment  boys  in  it, 
'.  don't  belong  to  it.  Some  years  back  I 
ook  Cheyenne  paper,  The  Leader  but  give 
t  up.  I  seen  in  Leader  about  Tom  Foster, 
Buffalo,  Wyoming  he  bought  Fort  Phil  Kear- 
ley  reservation  for  farming  I  used  to  write 
lim  but  lately  he  used  to  write  to  me  that  I 
vould  not  know  the  country  now  taken  up 
>y  miners  and  farmers. 

Yours  truly, 
(Signed)     ERNEST    POPE,    1865-68 
L,ate  A.  Co.  1st  Battalion,  18  U.  S.  Infantry. 

General  Delivery. 


I  read  day  and  night  in  winter  days  the 
)ook  is  good  reading  because  I  was  on  Boze- 
nan  and  other  roads  in  Wyoming  and  seen 
immigrant  trains  to  Utah  and  Pacific  States 
it  Fort  Casper  1866,  beautiful  snow  moun- 
ain  in  far  distance  in  the  summer,  stationed 
it  Fort  Reno,  The  Big  Horn  Mountains  was 
i  nice  sight  in  distance.  Your  book  shows 
i  map  of  Ft.  Phil  Kearney  I.  got  a  small  his- 
:ory  of  Col.  Carrington  own  writing  it  has 
i  map  of  Phil  Kearney  same  as  your  book, 
[  had  the  book  think  20  years.  Excuse  bad 
writing  mistakes  I  make,  I  thought  would 
nention  the  hardships  18th  regiment  cross- 
ng  the  plains  from  Fort  Leavenworth  Kan- 
sas winter  1865-66,  no  railroads,  I  have  writ- 
:en  a  long  history  of  18th  regiment  but  it 
:an  be  made  shorter.  I  presume  no  sign  of 
Ft.  Phil  Kearney  stockade  all  gone  I  was 
:here  after  the  massacre  guarding  supply 
:rains  to  Ft.  Phil  Kearney,  I  seen  it  was  a 
jood  Fort  and  stockade  and  mountainous 
;ountry  rich  in  mineral  I  presume.  Your 
)ook  I  very  near  read  through  reading  all 
:he  time,  book  put  me  in  mind  way  back 
lays  in  Wyoming.  Is  the  2nd  Volume  same 
price.      I    was    thinking    of    few    weeks    visit 


to  Indians  which  is  close  by  we  travel  cheap 
in  the  East,  electric  railway,  1  ]4  cent  a  mile. 
About  2nd  volume  I  will  buy  later  on  when 
you  have  it  printed.  I  lost  track  of  my  Cap- 
tain Lyman  M.  Kellogg  of  my  Company  18th 
regiment  when  we  built  Ft.  Casper  1866,  he 
was  there.  I  suppose  will  find  his  name  at 
Washington  on  the  book  if  living.  Will 
send  stamp  for  reply,  I  thank  you;  these 
letters  bad  hand  write. 

ERNEST  POPE,  18th  regiment. 
Dayton  Ohio.  G.  D. 


From  Record  A,  Page  1,  Surveyor  General's 
Office,  Cheyenne,  Wyoming. 

149   Warren   Ave., 
Boston,   Mass. 
Feb.  28th,   1870. 
Hon.  Jos.  S.  Wilson, 
Com.  General  Land  Office, 
Washington,  D.   C. 
Sir:— 

I  have  the  honor  to  state  that  in  my  con- 
firmation by  the  Senate,  for  Surveyor  Gen- 
eral of  Wyoming  Territory  occurred  on  the 
18th,  instant.  1  have  therefore  to  request 
that  when  it  shall  suit  your  convenience,  you 
will  forward  the  blank  Official  Bond  to  my 
address,  here  in  order  that  I  may  execute  it 
in  this  city  before  returning  to  Missouri, 
which  may  not  be  practicable  for  some  time 
yet. 

Very  respectfully, 
Your  Obedient   Servant, 

(Signed)     SILAS  REED. 


149  Warren  Avenue, 
Boston,   Mass. 
March  24th,   1870. 
Hon.  Jos.   S.  Wilson, 
Corn.  General  Land  Office, 
Washington,  D.  C. 
Sir:— 

I  have  the  honor  to  inclose  herewith  my 
Official  Bond  for  the  office  of  Surveyor  Gen- 
eral of  Wyoming  Territory  made  out  on  yes- 
terday and  which  I  hope  will  be  found  to  be 
strictly  in  accordance  with  your  instructions. 
Sickness  has  prevented  the  immediate  exe- 
cution of  the  Bond.  Be  pleased  to  acknowl- 
edge the  receipt  hereof  and  also  to  inform 
me  to  what  place  I  shall  repair  for  the  loca- 
tion of  the  office. 

I  shall  proceed  to  Wyoming  early  next 
month  where  I  hope  to  be  ready  to  com- 
mence the  surveys  as  soon  as  the  weather 
will  permit. 

I   remain  sir, 

Your   obedient   servant, 

(Signed)      SILAS   REED. 


149  Warren  Avenue, 
Boston,   Mass. 
April  2nd,  1870. 

Hon.  Jos.  S.  Wilson, 

Commissioner  Gen.   Land  Office, 

Washington,  D.   C. 

Sir:— 

I    have    the    honor    to    request    that    if   my 

commission  has  not  been  mailed  to  me  at  this 

place  before  this  reaches  you,  you  will  direct 

it  to  me  at  St.   Louis  upon  receipt  of  this, 


18 


care    of    H.    W.     Leffingwell,     Number    320 
Chestnut   Street. 

I  am  obliged  to  leave  for  that  city  on  Mon- 
day the  4th  instant. 

I  learn  from  Wvoming  that  efforts  are 
making  to  prevent  the  location  of  the  Land 
Office  at  Cheyenne.  I  trust  no  such  move- 
ment will  induce  Secretary  Cox  to  place  the 
office  west  of  the  Laramie  Mountains  at 
least  not  until  the  work  in  eastern  Wyoming 
is  well  advanced. 

Very  respectfully, 
Your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)     SILAS  REED, 

Surveyor  General,  Wyoming  Territory. 

P.   S. — I-  shall  be  glad  to  go  to  Wyoming 

and    commence    operations    as    soon    as    you 

shall   instruct   me   where    to   open   the   office 

and  what  to  do. 


St.    Louis,    Missouri, 
May  19th,  1870. 
Hon.  S.  F.  Nuckolls, 
Washington,  D.  C. 
Dear  Sir: — • 

I  am  in  receipt  of  your  two  acceptable  let- 
ters of  the  13th  and"  16th,  for  which  I  feel 
much  obliged  to  you,  I  also  have  one  from 
the  commissioner  of  the  11th,  informing  me 
that  he  will  forward  instructions  to  Cheyenne 
in  a  few  days. 

I  fear  this  does  not  mean  instructions  to 
commence  work  immediately — although  I  un- 
derstand the  appropriation  matter  there  is 
nothing  lacking  but  for  office  rent,  etc. 

I  shall  leave  for  Cheyenne  again  within 
three  or  four  days  and  see  what  I  find  to  do 
there  and  one  company  of  men  go  with  me 
to  begin  work.  I  hope  they  will  not  have  to 
wait  long  on  expense. 

The  Commissioner  said  last  winter  we 
must  not  survey  where  there  was  danger 
from  Indians.  If  he  adheres  to  this  idea  we 
could  not  run  a  line  ten  miles  away  from 
even  the  larger  villages.  We  can  do  literally 
nothing  on  lines  of  any  length  without  some 
protection  and  the  Surveyor  General  has  no 
authority  to  ask  for  military  protection.  Will 
you  please  have  some  conversation  with  Mr. 
Wilson  on  these  points  and  write  to  me  at 
Cheyenne,  his  views  as  well  as  your  own. 

I  am  pleased  to  hear  the  good  opinion 
from  Cheyenne  spoken  of  in  your  letter,  I 
shall  do  what  I  can  properly  both  to  secure 
and  retain  the  good  opinion  of  the  people,  of 
that,  to  me,  interesting  new  country,  Wyo- 
ming. 

Very  respectfully, 
Your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)     SILAS  REED. 


Surveyor  General's  Office, 
Cheyenne,  Wvoming  Territory, 
May  31st,  1870. 
Hon.  Jos.  S.  Wilson, 
Com.  General  Land  Office, 
Washington,  D.  C. 
Sir:— 

I  have  the  honor  to  offer  some  sugges- 
tions as  to  the  best  manner  of  expending  the 
appropriation  for  Surveys  in  Wyoming,  re- 
ferred to  in  your  instruction  fo  the  16th  in- 
stant. 


I  propose  to  expend  about  one-half  or  one- 
third  of  the  appropriation  of  $25,000  in  this 
vicinity  as  follows:  1st,  in  extending  the 
8th  Guide  Meridian  only  24  miles  at  present 
as  it  is  unsafe  to  proceed  farther  north  until 
we  learn  the  result  of  the  visit  of  Red  Cloud 
at  Washington;  2nd,  in  establishing  the  4th 
correction  line  eastward  to  the  east  Boun- 
dary of  Wyoming,  in  the  vicinity  of  Pine 
Bluffs,  say  20  to  24  miles;  3rd,  in  running  the 
4th  correction  line  West  to  the  Laramie 
range  about  36  miles;  4th,  in  establishing  the 
township  and  section  lines  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  this  city  where  the  principal  settle- 
ments are  confined  at  present. 

The  balance  of  the  appropriation  of  $25,- 
000  ought  to  be  expended  in  surveying  the 
vicinity  of  Laramie  city  on  the  west  side  of 
the  Laramie  range,  where  agriculturists  and 
stock-growers  are  rapidly  extending  their 
settlements,  the  section  of  counrty  being  the 
southern  edge  of  the  Laramie  plains  near  to 
the  above  city,  and  where  settlers  are  justly 
clamorous  for  surveys  to  be  made. 

To  effect  this  object  it  would  be  necessary 
to  establish  the  9th  Guide  Meridian  which 
will  run  from  Sherman  and  then  extend 
westward  therefrom  the  4th  and  5th  correc- 
tion lines  one-half  if  not  the  whole  distance 
to  the  10  Guide  when  run. 

The  4th  correction  would  probably  pass 
a  few  miles  north  of  Laramie  City. 

But  you  do  not  make  any  reference  to  the 
establishing  of  the  9th  Guide  and  I  am  not 
advised  whether  it  is  extended  northward  in 
Colorado  to  the  boundary  of  Wyoming. 

If  it  be  practicable  and  in  accordance  with 
your  policy  I  have  no  hesitation  in  recom- 
mending the  surveys  of  the  9th  Guide  at  ; 
least  48  miles  into  Wyoming  and  the  4th 
and  5th  correction  lines  west  at  least  24 
miles  so  that  the  inhabitants  of  the  enter- 
prising and  flourishing  city  of  Laramie  and 
its  vicinity  may  be  accommodated  with  the 
most   necessary   section   surveys   this   season. 

I  propose  to  begin  with  a  small  contract 
in  the  name  of  Edwin  James  and  Henry  G. 
Hay,  both  competent  men  and  the  former 
a  Deputy  in  Missouri  and  Iowa  in  past  years. 

The  contract  not  to  exceed  $2,000.00  and 
to  include  the  survey  of  the  8th  Guide  Meri- 
dian from  the  3rd  to  the  4th  correction  lines 
the  survey  of  the  4th  correction  line  to  the 
East  boundary  of  Wyoming  say  20  to  24 
miles  and  west  36  miles  to  the  foot  of  the 
Laramie  range.  Also  the  exteriors  of  town- 
ships 13  and  14th  ranges  65,  66,  67  and  68 
west  which  will  enable  subdividing  to  go  on 
around  this  city  and  down  the  valley  of  Crow 
Creek  to  the  South  boundary  of  Wyoming 
and  24  miles  along  Union  Pacific  in  this  vi- 
cinity. 

In  conclusion  I  have  to  request  most  earn- 
estly that  in  regard  to  the  1st  small  contract 
you  will  wave  your  regulation  of  requiring 
the  approval  of  the  contract  before  the  Depu- 
ties commence  work  in  the  field  and  permit 
them  in  this  only  instance  I  shall  have  oc- 
casion to  request  it  to  proceed  to  the  field 
as  soon  as  the  contract  is  made  in  due  form 
with  your  office. 

I  make  this  unusual  request  because  the 
expense   of   living   here    is    perfectly   ruinous 


19 


id  it  would  consume  two  of  the  best  weeks 

:  the   season  in   waiting  your  approval  and 

iturn  of  the  contract. 

If  you  shall  be  pleased  to  grant  this  ample 

aviation  from  rule,  I  will  thank  you  to  make 
known    to    me    by    telegraph    immediately 

jon  the  receipt  of  this  letter. 
Very  respectfully, 
Your  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)     SILAS  REED, 

Surveyor   General   of  Wyoming   Territory. 


Surveyor   General's   Office, 
Cheyenne,    Wvo.    Territory, 
June  8,   1870.  " 
.  F.  Davis,  Esq., 
and  Com.,  Union  Pacific  R.  R., 
maha,  Nebraska. 
ear  Sir: 

I  regret  the  necessity  of  requesting  your 
iendly  aid  once  more,  but  so  many  obstac- 
s  arise  to  delay  my  men  from  taking  the 
:ld  that  they  are  almost  discouraged. 
Upon  my  arrival  here  I  understand  our 
overnor  to  say  that  arrangements  had  been 
ade  for  military  protection  for  my  Deputies 

the  field Accordingly  on  yesterday  (in 

e  absence  of  the  Governor  at  Washington) 
called  to  see  General  King  on  the  subject 
id~4e^arned  from  him  that  no  order  had  been 
ceived  from  General  Augur  in  relation 
ereto  and  that  I  must  apply  to  General 
ugur  myself. 

I  am  not  authorized  to  call  for  protection 
ough  I  find,  the  universal  sentiment  pre- 
liling  here  that  my  Deputies  are  not  safe 
om  attack  by  Indians  10  miles  from  this 
wn.  I  will  probably  have  only  one  com- 
my  in  the  field  for  some  weeks  hence  and 
ey  will  not  go  farther  from  here  than  is 
quired  to  run  the  4th  correction  line  to  the 
:tent  noted  in  my  letter  of  6th  instant. 
Deputies  cannot  make  headway  in  work 
id  watch  for  Indians  too.  I  beg  leave  there- 
re  to  request  that  you  will  lay  the  subject 
iore  General  Augur  and  ascertain  whether 
:  cause  some  protection  to  be  furnished 
om  this  post  and  if  so,  whether  he  will 
der  half  a  dozen  stands  of  extra  arms  to 
:  taken  out  by  the  soldiers — to  be  used  by 
rveyors  in  case  of  attack — or  if  preferred 
'  him  to  be  sold  to  the  Deputies. 
I  may  add  that  I  noticed  soldiers  here  who 
Duld  be  benefitted  and  become  more  useful 
'  being  awhile  in  the  field. 
Please  to  let  hear  from  you  at  your  earliest 
■nvenience  —  for  our  instruments  arrived 
sterday  and  the  Deputies  are  ready  to  be- 
n  work. 

Very   respectfully, 
Your  obedient  Servant, 

SILAS  REED, 
Surveyor   Gen.   Wyo.   Tyty. 


Surveyor  General's  Office, 
Cheyenne,   Wyoming   Territory, 
June  13,  1870. 

on.  H.  Glafcke, 

;cy  and  Acting  Governor, 

Wyoming  Territory. 

r : — 

I   am  ready   to   commence   the   public   sur- 


veys of  this  Territory  in  the  vicinity  of  Chey- 
enne, but  from  the  universally  admitted  dan- 
ger from  Indian  hostility  my  Deputies  are 
unwilling  to  take  the  field  without  military 
protection. 

I  propose  to  employ  only  one  company  for 
the  next  month  upon  lines  as  follows,  to-wit: 
One  line  (the  8th  Guide  Meridian)  to  run 
from  the  Colorado  Boundary  north  48  miles 
passing  Cheyenne  12  miles  east.  Two  other 
lines  78  miles  long  each  running  west  from 
the  East  line  of  Wyoming  to  the  crest  of 
the  Laramie  range  24  and  48  miles  from  and 
parallel  to  the  South  Boundary  of  Wyoming 
and  a  few  townships  lines  in  the  vicinity  of 
Cheyenne  and  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad,  as 
shown  by  the  inclosed  diagram.  The  lines 
to  be  run  are  those  with  the  distance  marked 
in  figures. 

I  can  only  suggest  that  you  confer  with 
General  Augur  commanding  the  Department 
of  the  Platte  in  relation  to  the  necessity  of 
military  protection  and  request  that  some 
devise  be  obtained  as  soon  as  practicable. 

I  beg  leave  to  add  that  my  Deputies  desire 
authority  from  General  Augur  to  purchase 
at  least  6  or  8,  Sharps  Carbines  suited  to  Al- 
iens Centre  primed  cartridge  from  the  Ord- 
nance Officer  at  the  Post. 

We  ought  to  have  about  20  men  with  this 
company  of  Surveyors. 

I  am  very  respectfully, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

SILAS  REED, 
Surveyor  General  Wyo.  Territory. 


Headquarters  Ft.  D.  A.  Russell, 
_  June  21,   1870. 
To  Dr.  Silas  Reed, 
Surveyor   General   Wyo.   Territory. 
Sir:— 

The  commanding  officer  has  been  directed 
to  furnish  your  Surveying  party  with  an  es- 
cort and  desires  to  know  when  and  where 
the  Sergeant  in  charge  may  report  to  the 
Engineer. 

Very  respectfully, 
Your  obedient  servant, 

S HAY, 

Brevet  Maj.   1st   Infantry. 


Cheyenne,   Wyoming   Territory, 
June  21st,  1870. 
General  J.  H.  King, 
Fort  D.  A.  Russell, 
Dear   Sir: — 

I  have  to  thank  you  for  your  note  of  last 
evening  informing  me  that  I  can  have  an 
escort  from  Cavalry  for  my  Surveying  party. 
I  will  go  down  on  the  train  at  two  p.  m. 
tomorrow  to  Archer  Station,  to  meet  my 
company  there,  where  I  would  be  pleased 
to  meet  the  escort  if  it  should  be  convenient 
for  you  to  place  them  there,  that  soon. 
Very  respectfully, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

SILAS  REED, 
Surveyor  General  Wyoming  Territory. 


20 


Surveyor  General's  Office, 
Cheyenne,    Wyoming   Territory, 
July  16th,  1870. 
Gen'l  J.  H.  King, 
Commander  at  Ft.  D.  A.  Russell. 
Sir:— 

I  have  the  honor  to  inform  you  that  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  intimation  I  gave  you  ver- 
bally some  days  since  that  some  of  my  Depu- 
ties would  furnish  you  a  compass  at  the 
earliest  convient  moment,  for  the  survey  of 
the  outer  boundary  lines  of  Fort  Russell  res- 
ervation. I  am  now  enabled  to  state  that 
H.  G.  Hay  and  J.  B.  Thomas,  Deputies,  with 
their  Solar  compass  volunteered  to  aid  in  the 
Survey  gratuitously  on  Monday  next  if  that 
will  suit  you. 

I  would  suggest  that  you  use  rather  heavy 
stones  for  the  corners  and  angles — and  also 
set  stakes  with  mounds  at  every  one-half 
miles  on  each  of  the  four  mile  lines  count- 
ing from  the  beginning  of  each  line  on  the 
direction  to  be  surveyed. 

You  will  need  two  chairman,  two  flagmen 
and  2  or  three  men  to  set  and  mark  the  cor- 
ner stones  and  stakes. 

My  Deputies  will  soon  reach  here  with 
their  surveys  and  will  be  obliged  to  cross 
their  lines  on  the  lines  of  the  reservation. 
Thus  the  necessity  for  the  survey  being 
marked,  as  plainly  as  may  be  and  completed 
the  coming  week  if  convenient  for  you  to 
do  so. 

I  am  sir,  very  respectfully, 

Your  obedient  servant, 
SILAS  REED, 
Surveyor   Gen.   Wyoming  Territory. 

P.  S. — The  Deputies  will  need  an  ambul- 
ance to  carry  the  instruments  to  the  place  of 
operation. 


History 

(Books) 
Gifts  from 

Senator  F.  F.  Warren,  sketch  of  Ft.  Rol 
inson  (illustrated),  by  Maj.  Gen.  W.  H.  Cai 
ter,  U.  S.  A.,  retired. 

John  Clay,  1923  Live  Stock  Markets,  Vo 
ume  33. 

Mr.  C.  Nines,  The  Black  Hills,  by  Mr; 
Annie  E.  Tallent. 

Mr.  C.  S.  Baker,  Volume  1,  Coutant's  Hi< 
tor\^. 

Mrs.  Roy  E.  Riford,  Record  1889,  Rawlin 
Public  School. 

Purchased  by  State  Historical  Departmen 
The  Frontier  Trail,  by  Col.  Homer  \\ 
Wheeler,  U.  S.  Cav.,  retired,  autograph  copy 
An  Army  Boy  of  the  Sixties,  by  Major  A.  E 
Ostrander;  The  National  Parks;  Reminis 
censes  of  Alex  Topence;  The  American  Gov 
ernment,  by  Frederick  J.  Haskin;  Shoshon 
Folk  Lore,  by  Sarah  Emelia  Olden. 


NOTE — These  Surveyor's  notes  were 
taken  from  the  manuscript  records  in  the 
Surveyor  General's  office,  Cheyrenne,  by  the 
courtesy  of  Surveyor  General  Atherly. 


ACCESSIONS 


December  31,  1923,  to  March  31,  1924 
(Museum) 
Gifts  from 

Editor  Cook,  picture  of  Father  Camisky. 

Mr.  Joe  Wilde,  picture  of  Mr.  Wilde's  resi- 
dence, group  picture  of  Red  Angus,  Posey 
Ryan,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  John  Owens,  Joe  Wilde. 

Judge  J.  R.  Arnold,  wall  map  of  United 
States,  1858. 

Mr.  William  J.  MacDonald,  Wilson  badge. 

Mr.  Rov  E.  Riford,  picture  of  Capt.  Thos. 
Miller,  1808;  picture  of  Company  C,  W.  N. 
G.,  Buffalo,  18 

Mr.  A.  E.  Watts — Two  Indian  Saddles 
from  old  Fort  Washakie;  Sioux  Indian  Neck- 
lace; Arapahoe  gambling  game;  old  ceremon- 
ial knife;  horseshoe  found  on  Custer  battle 
field;  tomahawk;  Indian  peace  pipe;  vest 
worn  by  "Miss  Wyoming"  on  trip  east  to 
advertise  Frontier  Days,  1920. 

Mr.  E.  A.  Logan — Horseshoe  from  the  old 
Ft.    l_,aramie  stock. 

Donald  E.  Crain,  loaned,  Deringer  revol- 
ver, 1871. 

Purchased  by  State  Historical  Department, 
map  of  United  States;  map  of  Wyoming. 


Miscellaneous 
Gifts  from 

Mrs.  J.  H.  Burgess,  original  manuscript. 

Mrs.  Gertrude  Merrill,  original  manuscripl 

Col.   H.   W.   Wheeler,  original  manuscripl 

Mrs.  Charles  Stone,  original  manuscript. 
•   Judge  C.  N.  Potter,  legal  document  March 
1875. 

Mr.  William  Hooker,  R.  R.  Bond,  Wiscon 
sin.  Repudiated  1857. 

Dr.  Grace  R.  Hebard,  Index  miscellaneou: 
papers. 

Bishop  Thomas,  ten  dollars. 

E.  A.   Brinninstool,  pamphlet. 


AMONG  THE  BOOKS 

"The  Frontier  Trail,"  by  Homer  W 
Wheeler,  Col.  U.  S.  Cav.  (retired)  has  jusj 
been  published.  Colonel  Wheeler  served  witl 
the  old  Fifth  and  the  Eleventh  Cavalry  and 
saw  38  years  active  service.  As  Indian 
fighter  and  army  officer  he  knew  Wyoming 
"My  Experiences  at  Fort  Washakie"  appear- 
ing in  this  Bulletin  is  from  Colonel  Wheeler's 
pen  and  he  has  presented  the  manuscript  tc 
the  Wyoming  State  Historical  Department 
"The  Frontier  Trail"  is  published  by  th< 
Times-Mirror  Press  of  Los  Angeles  and  th( 
price  is  $3.00,   Illustrated. 

"An  Army  Boy  of  the  Sixties,  or  a  Story 
of  the  Plains"  by  Major  A.  B.  Ostrander 
is  a  recently  published  book  which  contain! 
history  of  the  Indian  troubles  in  Wyomidj 
and  many  entertaining  stories  of  array  offil 
cers  and  life  on  the  Plains.  Major  Ostrandej 
served  in  the  Civil  War  and  with  the  regulai 
army  during  the  Indian  wars  in  Wyoming 
He  has  presented  his  manuscript  of  this  bool 
to  the  State  Historical  Department  of  Wyo 
ming.  Published  by  World  Book  Company 
New  York.     $2.25. 

"Reminiscences  by  Alex  Toponce"  is  an 
other  book  that  has  just  been  brought  out 
It  contains  much  early  history  of  Wyoming 
The  book  is  published  by  Mrs.  Toponce  o 
Ogden,  Utah,  and  is  priced  at  $3.00. 

The  Wyoming  State  Historical  Depart 
ment  has  purchased  these  three  books.