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LIBRARY
OF THE
UNIVERSITY Of WYOMING
LARAMIE
Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2011 with funding from
LYRASIS Members and Sloan Foundation
http://www.archive.org/details/annalsofwyom114192324wyom
i>, STATE OF wVoMING
HISTORICAL DEPARTMENT
QUARTERLY BULLETIN
(Double Number)
Vol. 1. Cheyenne, August 15, 192^3 Nos. 1 & 2
WYOMING
We sing Wyoming and her good brown plains,
Tang of warm sagebrush in the tonic air;
Winds that blow four-cornered from the sky,
And whimsy trails that loiter everywhere.
Her cattle roam a thousand hills,
Her flocks are gathered to an ample breast;
Grim pines with long beards in the wind
Are shaggy sentinels on many a crest.
Hers is the glory of wide sunset skies,
Coral isles on westward sweeping seas;
Or gold tumultuous to the zenith tossed
In wildering ecstasy by crimson breeze.
We sing Wyoming and her tinted hills
That fall asleep for long midsummed dreams,
When quiet skies are lit with primrose light
And fisher-birds dip into shadowed streams,--
Yea and the wonder of far purple peaks,
Knforested ambrosial heights,
And phantom ranges of the silver brows
Where ravelled clouds are rent by heavenly lights.
— Dr. June E. Downey.
(Copyright 1924)
QUARTERLY BULLETIN
Published by the Wyoming Historical Department
STATE HISTORICAL BOARD
Governor— William B. Ross
Secretary of State — F. E. Lucas
State Librarian — Flo La Chapelle
State Historian, Mrs. Cyrus Beard
Secretary of Board
ADVISORY BOARD
Rt. Rev. P. A. McGovern, Cheyenne
Dr. Grace R. Hebard, Laramie
Mr. P. W. Jenkins, Cora
Mrs. Willis M. Spear, Sheridan
Miss Margery Ross, Cody
Mr. R. D. Hawley, Douglas
Mrs. E. T. Raymond, Newcastle
Mr. E. H. Fourt, Lander
CONTENTS
Wyoming Dr. June E. Downey
A Place in Wyoming Worthy a Monument....Mrs. Agnes Wright-Spring
Early Pioneer of Wyoming Mr. Clarence Holden
The Mountain's Secret Bess Hilliard Glafcke
Letter Philip Ashton Rollins
Gamaliel? O, Gamaliel! E. Richard Shipp
Chapman Diary W. W. Chapman
Tarrup Letter Coutant Notes
Cherry Creek Massacre Ed. Towse
Earlv Explorers George H. Cross
Letter R. H. Hall
Coutant Notes
Wyoming Days Roy C. Smith
Notes Historian
My Association with Wyoming Frank S. Lusk
Reminiscences Harriet Ann Durbin
The Story of a Pioneer Mary A. Paterson
Notes Coutant
Colonel Brackett
T. J. Montgomery
John C. Davis
FOREWORD
It is the desire of the State Department of History to publish
quarterly a small brochure on Wyoming History. The present number
is the first of these little pamphlets to be issued. The material pre-
sented has all been written by Wyoming people on Wyoming subjects.
The Department solicits such contributions.
This second edition of Nos. 1 and 2 of the Quarterly Bulletin is
issued at this time to supply the demand for unbroken files. These
numbers have been out of print for a year.
Four pages of unpublished history have been added to the original
numbers in order to bring this double number to twenty pages to con-
form with the size of subsequent issues of Vols. 1 and 2.
754
A PLACE IN WYOMING WORTHY OF
A MONUMENT
SOUTH PASS
Far in the West there lies a desert land,
where the mountains,
Lift through perpetual snows, their lofty and
luminous summits,
'Down from their jagged, deep ravines, where
the gorge, like a gateway.
Opens a passage rude to the wheels of the
emigrant's wagon. — Evangeline.
In Wyoming there are many, many, points
of invaluable historic interest, for instance,
Fort Laramie, Independence Rock, Fort Phil
Kearney, Fort Bonneville, Fort Bridger and
others. All of these points are surrounded
with thrilling histories, — yet there is a place
which stands out clear cut above the others,
it is the place in Wyoming most worthy of
a fine monument, — South Pass.
South Pass is in the Continental Divide in
the Wind River Range, in range 101 and 102,
township 27, 28. Altitude about 7500 feet.
The pass is 947 miles from the Missouri
River and was considered the dividing line
or the half-way mark on the Oregon Trail,
ir-rfas here that the emigrants looked toward
their goal and forgot the country from which
they had come. From here the Sweet-water
rises and flows toward the East to the North
Platte, the Missouri, the Mississippi, and
Gulf of Mexico. On the other hand, Pacific
Creek and Sandy Creek flow westward into
the Green, the Colorado, and the Gulf of
California. This then was the dividing line.
Westward, the Oregon flows and the
Walleway and Owynee,
East, with devious course, among the
Windriven Mountains,
Through the Sweetwater Valley precipitate
leaps the Nebraska,
And to the South, from Fontaine-qui-bout
and to the Spanish Sierras,
Fretted with sands and rocks, and swept by
the wind of the desert,
Numberless torrents, with ceaseless sound,
descend to the ocean,
Like the great chords of a harp, in loud
and solemn vibrations.
The country leading up to the pass is
gently sloping and rises gradually to the di-
vide. The pass itself is over three miles
long and is a dip in the extreme southeastern
part of the Wind River mountains. The sides
of the pass are exceedingly rough altho not
iery high. Its gulches afforded abundant
forage and excellent water. From now on
in speaking of South Pass we will consider
the pass and the neighboring slopes leading
;up to and away from it.
" There is a pass across to the head of Green
River near Union Peak, called Union Pass
and also another across to the Gros Ventres
fork of Snake River. Animals have been rid-
den across from the head of Green River
to Camp Brown but this is probably quite
a difficult task. It is impossible to get wa-
gons thru these passes, therefore lea v in
South Pass the only opening thru this branch
of the mountains which afforded easy passage
for people traveling with wagons.
A far more level country would have been
across the desert. There was a trail which
turned out ten miles west of Devil's Gate
thru Crook's gap, but there was a stretch of
eighty miles from there to the Green River
without water. Rivers came up and then
disappeared in the sand leaving alkaline pools
which were not fit to drink. The buffalo
trails crossed the north edge of the desert,
also antelope trails, but the emigrants kept
north along the Sweetwater thru South Pass.
One author says: "The Sweetwater takes
us below the foot of the Big Horns, thru the
Devil's Gate, and leads us gently up to that
remarkable crossing of the Rockies known as
South Pass, a spot of great association."
John D. Hunter, by some was' believed to
have lived in captivity, and is reported to
have said that he and some Plains Indians,
made the journey to the Columbia and back
thru passes in the Rockies, probably South
j Pass. We are bound to believe that these
] Plains' Indians antedated the first white man
j in the discovery of South Pass.
In 1743 the Verendryes just missed discov-
ering South Pass. They were in the Wind—
1 River mountains about 100 miles north of the
long looked for pass. The Snakes and Sho-
shones, however, frightened them by telling
them that the hostile Sioux would kill them
if they went any farther, so worn out and
despairing of finding the Western Sea they
turned back.
In 1811 John Jacob Astor's land party
euided by Indians, afraid of the other In-
dians crossed the Rockies thru Union Pass,
eighty miles to the north of South Pass.
In 1812 Robert Stuart and his party of
trappers just missed the Pass.
The first white man believed to have dis-
covered South Pass is Etienne Provost. Pro-
vost was one of Ashley's men. It seems that
William Ashley of St. Louis, organized a
company called the Rocky Mountain Fur
Company. On April 12, 1822, his first ex-
pedition left St. Louis. Ashley sent Andrew-
Henry with eighty men to the Yellowstone
country to trap. Henry sent Etienne Provost
to trap to the southwest. It was there, while
trapping in the Wind River Mountain that .
Provost discovered the Pass in the moun-
tains, and probably gave it its name from its
location in the southern part of the Conti-
nental Divide. James Bridger was a mem-
ber of Provost's party when the pass was dis-
covered.
In 1824, General Ashley took his little
wheeled cannon thru South Pass to his fort
at Utah Lake. This doubtless was the first
wheeled vehicle which had gone over this
route.
About this time the Missouri Fur Com-
pany revived under the leadership of Lisa,
Pilcher, Hempstead, and Perkins carried on
their operations in the South Pass country.
Although to Smith, Sublette, and Jackson
belongs the distinction of taking the first
wagons across the plains into the mountains,
nowhere do we find that they took the wa-
ons thru South Pass — that honor was left
to Captain E. L. Bonneville, who in 1832
led a party of one hundred and ten frontiers-
men across the plains to the Rockies. Bon-
neville led his caravan of twenty wagons
hauled by "bull teams," thru South Pass, trac-
ing for the first time with wagons the Over-
land Trail. Captain Bonneville received a
leave of absence from the army and for two
years carried on operations around this neigh-
borhood.
Following closely after Bonneville in 1832
we find Nathaniel J. Wyeth, who led a party
of adventurers over the same route thru
South Pass with a load of provisions which
he intended to sell for a large sum of money.
At that time, however, there was a change
in fur companies and they refused to buy the
provisions. Wyeth was disgusted and re-
turned to the East. Soon he gathered a band
of Methodist missionaries and turned his face
westward again toward the Rockies. Among
these missionaries were Jason and Daniel
Lee.
The next year 1835, Samuel Parker and
Whitman, two missionaries set out by the
trail thru South Pass on their way to Oregon.
Leaving Parker, near the western boundary
of Wyoming, Whitman accompanied by two
Nez Perces Indians, boys, returned to the
east. While East, he and a friend, Rev.
Spalding by name, were both married and
in 1836 started west with their brides. The
party consisted of Rev. and Mrs. Spalding,
Mr. and Mrs. Whitman, Mr. Gray and two
Nez Perces boys.
"From the Missouri river Dr. Whitman's
party journeyed with a fur trader's caravan.
On the night of July third the travelers
reached South Pass. Early in the morning
of the Fourth, the fur trader's caravan jour-
neyed on, but Whitman's party remained in
order to show their patriotism. Dr. Whit-
man spread a blanket on the ground, then
took a national flag and a Bible from the
wagon. After placing the Bible on the ground
and grasping the flag in his hand, he raised
his voice in prayer. Then in the name of
God, and of the United States the reverend
man took possession of the territory" which
is now our glorious state of Wyoming. This
patriotic service closed with a hymn led by
Mrs. Whitman.
Mrs. Whitman and Mrs. Spalding were the
first white women to cross over the Overland
Trail thru South Pass. Soon however hun-
dreds of women came thru on their way to
the west.
Soon after Whitman had aroused the peo-
ple concerning the missionary work, Father
Jean Pierre De Smet in 1840, left Westport
with a party of the American Fur Company.
He journeyed thru South Pass on his way to
the Green River "rendezvous." The next
spring Father De Smet returned with two
priests and three laymen, they were met at
South Pass by ten lodges of the faithful Flat-
heads. Many times after that Father De
Smet passed back and forth thru South Pass
on his way from tribe to tribe of the Indians
as he performed his missionary work.
"On the western slope of these mountains
Dwells in his little village, the Black Robe
Chief of the -Mission,
Much he teaches the people, and tells them
of Mary and Jesus,
Loud laugh their hearts with joy and weep
with pain when they hear him."
At this time (1840), the Overland Trail
was becoming a well worn road. South Pass
was the resting place for many trains. The
fine grass and water there afforded excellent
camping grounds and gave ample opportunity
for repairing and getting ready for the long
pull west. Altho, to some travelers the jour-
ney seemed near its close at South Pass,
yet it was only half over. LTp to this time
the people traveling thru, were trappers,
traders, and missionaries, but now in 1842
came the first party of actual colonists, 112
in number, which was headed by Dr. Elijah
White, who was sent out a sub-Indian agent.
In this same year, 1842, Senator Benton,
a patron of fur trade received for his son-
-in-law, John C. Fremont, a detail in com-
mand of an exploring party to South Pass.
Fremont, guided by Kit Carson, started with
a party from Cyprian's Chateau's place on
the Kansas, and reached the destination,
South Pass, on Aug. 8, 1842. His journey
of observation was continued along the Wind
River Mountains, and to the top of the peak
which now bears his name. In 1843, Fremont
made a second and more extended govern-
mental exploration to the Rockies. He split
up his party and sent part thru South Pass
again.
As soon as the Indiana began to see that
the white men were pushing into their coun-
try to stay, they began their depredations.
The South Pass country afforded them ex-
cellent opportunity for carrying on their war-
fare. As a result, the government established
a soldier camp about one and one-fourth
miles northeast of South Pass. A stockade
and post were built and called Fort Stam-
baugh. This was used for several years as
a protection to emigrants in the pass but
several battles took place, they were of no
consequence.
For many years South Pass City and Camp
Stambaugh were outfitting posts for trappers
and traders. The Northwest Fur Cumpany
established a trading post here, which after
the fur animals disappeared was used as a
country store.
In 1847 the Mormons, led by Brigham
Young started for the West. An advance
party under the leadership of Starbell, con-
sisting of 143 men, 72 wagons, 175 horses
went thru South Pass in search fo the "Prom-
ised Land." During the summer, party after
party passed thru until by October there were
approximately 4,000 Mormons in the vicinity
of Salt Lake.
In 1849, the great cry was "Westward,
Ho," and "California." Thousands of gold
seekers pushed west. One authority states
that 42,000 people crossed the continent dur-
ing this year, another states that 100,000 gold
seekers passed over the trail between May
and October, 1849. These travelers went over
the trail thru South Pass. It seemed that
there was an endless line of the white can-
vass wagons creeping and crawling along
over the way. These people were going to
stay and were carrying their families and all
of their household possessions with them.
"Close at their sides their children ran,
and urged on the oxen,
While in their little hands they clasped
some fragment of playthings."
The loads grew heavier and heavier, it
seemed, on the long journey and as a result
carved tables, bureaus, trunks, chairs, and
everything imaginable were strewn along the
path. Many men and women pitched their
camps along the streams in South Pass. For
some now the journey seemed almost over,
but for some the journey was forgotten, all
thoughts were turned upon a loved one who
was sick and dying out in the wilderness;
or else, the young people out in the clear
starlight would be busy with their love-mak-
ing. Song and sorrow were alike familiar
to the trail.
The tremendous stream of people which
started in '49 continued until so many people
were in California and Oregon that by 1881
:t mail service became necessary. Therefore
Hockaday and Ligett established a stage line
to carry mail and passengers. This line ran
over the regular route thru South Pass.
Large. Concord coaches were used and fine
horses and Kentucky mules. The stages
went night and day at full speed.
In 1858 Russell, Majors, and Waddell pur-
chased the stage line. These men had in
speration 6,250 freight wagons, and 75,000
Bxen.
A little previous to this time, in the early
fifties the first gold mined in Wyoming was
mined in South Pass. The principal strike
was made in Strawberry gulch in the extreme
3astern part of the Pass vicinity. Very rich
:juartz mines have been found in South Pass
and an immense amount of mining has been
ione there which is proof enough that some
Jay it will be the center of industry.
The government offered a prize of $40,000
l year to the person or company who should
first build a telegraph line along the Over-
land Trail. A California Company under-
:ook the enterprise and built to Salt Lake.
A man named Creighton began at the east
and built toward Salt Lake. By rushing his
ine thru Creighton completed it on October
17, 1861, making him the winner of the prize,
"elegraph stations were established along the
ine, one being placed at South Pass.
The Indians soon learned that the wires
rarried messages' for help, so they were not
ong in tearing the line down. Many cruelties
Ivere committed by the savages. South Pass
offered a fine place for them to carry on
:heir depredations. Matters began to grow
very serious, until finally the U. S. Volun-
:ecrs were sent out to fight the Indians.
In 1859, Russell, Majors and Waddell un-
dertook the enterprise of the Pony Express,
rhis was a marvelous undertaking. The men
rode day and night thru storm and sunshine.
Phey were given just two minutes at each
station in which to change horses and be off.
The average time required for rushing this
mail across half of the Continent was eight
days. This was once cut down to seven
davs and seventeen hours. Two noted as
Pony Express riders were: Buffalo Bill,
Cody, and Pony Bob (Robert H. Haslan).
There was great danger from Indians and
the strain upon nerves was tremendous. In
all the time that the Pony Express was in
operation, however, there was only one mail
lost. About the most marvelous ride ever
made on the Overland Trail was made by a
Canadian, Francis Xavier Aubrey, who rode
on a bet that he could cover the distance
between Santa Fe and Independence (800
miles) in eight days. The bet was one thou-
sand dollars. Aubrey did not stop to rest,
changing horses every hundred miles. He
finished the ride in five days and thirteen
hours.
About 1862 the stage route was changed
from the South Pass route to the southern
route thru Cheyenne and across the Laramie
Plains. This was brought about chiefly from
the influence of Denver men who persuaded
Ben Holliday, then proprietor, to change the
line. From that time on, the greater number
of travelers took the southern route instead
of going thru South Pass. During the latter
part of the fifties and early sixties, surveyors
crossed Wyoming hunting a line for the
L-nion Pacific Railroad. A railroad could
have been built thru South Pass but the In-
dians were bad in that part of the state for
one reason, and then the surveyors were
after the shortest way, and last the influence
of the Denver men was brought to bear upon
them. For these reasons the survey was
made across the southern part of the state
and the railroad was accordingly constructed.
After the construction of the railroad thru
South Pass was seldom used by emigrants.
In 1869 Mrs. Esther Morris, joined her
husband and three children at the mining
camp at South Pass. Here she was made
the first woman Justice of the Peace in the
world, and it was she who co-operated with
Colonel Bright in securing suffrage for the
women of Wyoming.
To every one the word South Pass should
call up the early history of Wyoming. It
was the gateway to the western civilization.
Surely a place with so many historic relations
and famous associations is worthy of a monu-
ment. Do not let us forget that the only
monuments which we have for it today are
the old camptires, which will soon fade from
sight.
"As the emigrant's way on the Western
desert is marked by
Camp-fire long consumed, and bone that
bleach in the sunshine."
Essay written for prize offered by Jacques-
Laramie Chapter of D. A. R., Laramie, Wvo.,
1911. Written by Agnes R. Wright. (This
essay won the prize.)
EARLY PIONEER OF WYOMING
Tex Eastwood was a soldier of the Mexi-
can War. He came to Wyoming in the
early fifties, and for years followed the trail
as a trapper and a scout. He was a great
friend of James Bridger and was acquainted
with Kit Carson. Tex was well known far
and near in the Green River Vallev. He had
a ranch on Big Piney and this was his home
for many years. He also raised many good
horses, and oftentimes had them stolen by
the Indians. The summer of 1878 at the
headwaters of Green River, his horses were
all stolen by the Indians, his partner killed
and himself badly wounded. Tex claimed
after he was wounded he wandered about in
the wilderness for fifteen days, with neither
food nor shelter. All he lived on was sage
brush and grease wood. At that time game
was plentiful but he did not dare fire a shot,
as he knew he was in the heart of the Indian
country. At the end of the fifteen days he
fell into the hands of two trappers and they
took charge of the great scout until he had
almost recovered. Tex told his sad story
to the trappers who had taken charge of him.
The first meal they gave him was some gruel
from dried elk meat, and a small cup of tea,
and he said, "that was the best meal he had
ever tasted." He was so near starvation and
they were very careful in his diet. They
gave him the same kind of food for many
days, in small amounts but very often. The
trappers gave Tex the very best of care
while he was with them.
After he had almost recovered the trap-
pers brought Tex down to Fontenelle and
left him with John W. Smith who was a
good friend to Tex and he was there for
niany months, and finally fully recovered
from his severe wounds. He then went
back to his trapping grounds. I heard him
say once, "that he caught six hundred beaver
in the tributaries of the Green River in one
season." He always received good prices
for the furs, and as he understood the fur
business thoroughly he always prepared the
furs so he might receive good prices. He
was a good reliable man and honest in all
of his dealings. He was. a man that was
afraid of nothing or of no one. He left a
large amount of property at the time of his
death, which occurred the latter part of May,
1894, and the remains were placed in the
cemetery of La Barge.
CLARENCE HOLDEN,
Fontenelle, Wvo.
June 3, 1923.
THE MOUNTAIN'S SECRET
What secret hold ye within thy walls,
So massive from base to crest?
Mighty and fearless ye stand aloof
From all earth's loveliness.
Gigantic thy strength for such support
As the trees and rocks demand,
And the precious metals which men so seek
Ye yield and defenseless stand.
Do the gloden sun and the fleecy clouds
Thy silence understand?
They rise and sink, o'er thy topmost brink,
Baffling bewildered man,
Who may worship and gaze and perhaps un-
derstand
What part ye are of the Infinite's plan.
—Bess Hilliard Glafcke.
1 o the State Historian oiW
Madam:
"Old timers" can, without cost to them-
selves, do a great service to their friends,
'yoming:
to Wyoming, and to the United States. There
is vital need for this service, and only "Old-
timers" can give it.
A host of fiction writers, through many
years, have been drawing pen portraits of the
Western pioneers. More recently the "movie
people" have flooded the country with screen
portrayals of those same pioneers. Painters
and book illustrators have evolved innumer-
able pictures relating to the same subject.
The portraits, the portrayals, and the pictures
do not show the pioneer as he really was.
They set forth a mere swash-buckler, but
they have convinced the majority of Ameri-
cans that what they set forth is an accurate
presentment.
Until recently Westerners could afford
amusedly to ignore the libel, for it gave no
promise of harming any one or anything.
But conditions have changed, and the possi-
bility of serious harm has been clearly re-
vealed.
The many immigrants now landing in the
United States arrive upon its shores with no
knowledge of its history. Their school is
the "movie" screen and the short story. Thus
they rapidly become persuaded that the West
was founded and shaped by thieves and mur-
derers, that it had no worth in its inception,
that it has no merit in its traditions.
There is grave danger unless this concep-
tion be corrected. At least, many of the
Australian contingent in the late W'orld War
assert that there is; and these Australians
are, by reason of their own experiences, ex-
pert judges. These Australians, on leaving
home, had in mind naught but the idea of
complete and enthusiastic accord with their
allies in assailing the German army. These
Australians received, as they expected, bul-
lets from the German army; but they re-
ceived, as they did not expect, gibes from
their allies; gibes so frequent and so galling,
as at times seriously to impair morale. They
were tauntingly accused of being the de-
scendents of criminals; all this because Eng-
land, during a few years before the coloniza-
tion of Australia began, maintained a penal
colony at Botany Bay in Australia and sent
to Botany Bay a limited number of convicts.
"The man on the street" of England, of Can-
ada, event of the United States had, for t'.ie
moment, become the man in the trenche s
He believed that the Australian soldier ?
traced their ancestry to the felons of Botany
Bay, and he often acted accordingly.
As one of these Australians later said, "Un
less the Americans substitute a truthful pic
ture of the Western pioneer in place of tlu
libelous caricature that now prevails, that cari-i
cature some day will rise up and haunt fu-l
ture Americans as Botany Bay has haunted
us. Why don't the Americans advertise the'
actual Western pioneer, and thus convert a
national liability into a national asset."
Unfortunately there now is, in written or
printed form, the very scantiest record oi
actual doings in the early West. Accordingly]
there are available for the serious-minded his- 1
torian only few and fragmentary records
wherefrom to construct a truthful account tp
But it is not too late for this deficiency to faH
averted. There still live many "Old-timers J(
If they will write you letters in which they
tell in detail of what they saw and did and
suffered in the bygone days, of their dealings
with their fellow pioneers, whether these fel-
low pioneers were honorable or infamous, in
which they tell in detail of wrongful deeds
as well as of praiseworthy acts, then out of
the aggregate of these letters will come a
history that will be authoritative and conclu-
sive. If, however, the "Old-timers" remain
inactive in the matter, all proof of decency
will die with them, and the West may pass
down in history with the unwarranted stigma
of having had a disgraceful parentage.
Let tbe "movies" and the fictionists con-
tinue to give to the public, for its entertain-
ment, their oftentimes charming pictures of
fictitious Westerners, but let the public be
taught that the pictures are inaccurate, that
the average Western pioneer was a construc-
tive citizen, a builder of empire, and not a
"two gun" killer.
Respectfully vours,
PHILIP" ASHTON ROLLINS.
Gamaliel? O, Gamaliel!
The hearts of us are sad today,
The eyes of us are dim with tears,
Thy hand no longer points the way,
'""•-slfhy words no longer still our fears,
Gamaliel, O, Gamaliel!
Disconsolate, we voice our woe;
O.ur souls shrink with the pain of it.
Desolate, we voice our sorrow;
Our heads bowed with grief of it.
Gamaliel, O, Gamaliel.
— E. RICHARD SHIPP.
The Wyoming Poet.
August 2, 1923. ,
Written on President Harding's passing.
CHAPMAN DIARY
Diary of Mr. W. W. Chapman who left
nis home in Illinois on March 12, 1849, for
:he gold fields of California, traversing across
A-hat is now Wyoming. Through the cour-
esy of the son, Mr. Albert Chapman, an
?arly settler and prominent citizen of Chey-
Inne, we are permitted to use this diary.
Now I shall book something of my Cali-
ornia trip. I broke up housekeeping March
Eth, 1849. Started for the relms of gold
m 13th and I left St. Louis April 5th. Ar-
ived at St. Joseph May the 2nd.
Wednesday left there the 5th, first day 6
niles campt on the bluffs noon; 10 miles
:ampt on Musquto branch a pleasant stream;
Vlissouri bottom heavy timbered the rest of
vhich is rolling prairie in delightful mounds
i broken country.
The 3rd day 12 miles campt on Wolf creek
l perfect mud hole at the ford a delightful
tream we saw Indians plenty they are thick
bund the camps.
May 8th, 9 m passed the Indian mission
hey were planting corn. Saw plenty of Li-
lians they said fourteen days travels to Buf-
alo. Sold one of the company a pony
>assed the lone tree it was desolate monarch
t seems to be the lone monitor of the plains
}od's mandate bade it rise; no timber —
. >
campt on a large spring in prairie, the sun
rose and set behind mounds in prairie. Soil
rich grass tolerable game scarce snakes plenty
and the thought of my wife and my boy
were constant. Some company fell in.
9th, some 8 or 10 m campt in prairie on
mound no timber in sight. Stopped at noon
organized, adopted constitution T. R. Knopp
Captain, Maxey Assistant Captain the wea-
ther cold and cloudy appearance of rain.
Whittock and Fowler sick, traveling slow,
nothing extraordinary happened the camp in
good spirits.
10th, some 10 m campt on Turkey creek
scattering timber, weather cool, a talk of
more company, colera in the camp (Whit-
tock) a spirit of gloom seems to prevail over
the camp. Every soul concerned and feelings
not expressed but conveyed by the soul, by
the jestures of every creature.
11th, James Whittock died with colera
about noon, spoken high of by his comrades
died in great agony, a cloud of rain passed
over in which the spirit took shelter that
wafted his soul away. We hurried him who
left his beloved wife for gold, whose flesh
was not yet cold, campt in prairie neither
wood nor water the prowling wolves made
music for the night, timber and game scarce
soil extremely rich.
12th, some 25m all prairies along the road;
timber on either side from one to two miles
a forced march for no cause except to show
the hand of inexperience and ignoring offi-
cers. The rapture scenes that rises to my
sight make our travels — fields of delight,
campt in the regions of the creek Nemahah
a great stream of water passed a pond in
prairie of pretty and clear water.
' Sun. 13th lay by on the Nemaha, turkeys
in camp prim and brown overhauled our load.
Elected a second captain. James Bowers,
rained in morning.
M. 14th, 20 mi campt on small branch an
ox took lame timber and water plenty wea-
ther cold and cloudy appearance of rain a
d-ead ox found a calf and shot it.
T. 15th, 18 or 20 mi campt on Blue river
a considerable stream of water clear and cold
some body had left their wagon some trouble
to get a cross timber tolerable prairie coun-
try rolling country game scarce.
W. 16th, 15 m lame ox campt in prairie
these prairies divine wrought by the hand
of God Divine took in company 2 wagons
one lady passed 10 graves twixt here and St.
Joseph a creek in evening game scarce soil
good.
Th. 17, 16 miles prairie in rising mounds
the camp in good spirits our team fresh.
F. 18, 18 miles prairie some timber passed
the man by his trunk supposed to be set out
crossed several streams of water.
Sat. 19th, 20 m camped on little Blue river
it is pretty high a great stream of water
colera in the camp rained in the morning and
about 3 o'clock a. m. an Indian rode into
camp at the top of speed was apprehended
by the guard and rode away as fast as he
came he came no doubt to see what chance
there was for a stampede I was on guard
myself and had he came a jump or two far-
ther I should have shot. I had my gun in
good trim he frightened the cattle this was
the first frightful times I have seen we ran
great risk we passed soon some fellows from
Illinois, Blooming-ton who lost 40 yoke of
oxen come into game country here we saw
very frequently the head of an antelope or
deer brought to the road side grass and soil
verv poor poor yielding soil. Comer still
worse most likely will die.
S. 20th lay by on the Blue. Comer died
of colera died very suddenly great pain. Had
plenty of fish saw signs of Buffalo. Died
about 4 o'clock.
M. 21, 18 or 20 mi campt on Blue poor
soil nothing of importance took place.
T. 22nd, 20 m campt on branch of Blue
water and wood plenty of game.
W. 23rd, some 20 mi campt on Piatt River
the river surprised us all so large over one
mile across scarce of timber the bluffs look
as desolate and romantic saw antelope plenty
his surprising speed can baffle both horses
and guns.
Th. 24th, 12 m campt 4 miles this side of
the Fort Chiles passed the fort about noon
I stopped in fort half day and all night had
a wagon box made there the fort was built
of sod not a solid material house in fort a
perfect new city, torrents of rain fell.
F. 25th, 12 m campt on Platte had wood
and water road bad lots of teams swampt
broke down and timber scarce soil poor, had
a fight.
Sat. 26th 18 m camp Platte lots of frost
grass good.
S. 27th. 18 m campt on Platte beautiful
day quite warm and pleasant. Saw elks,
antelope, killed wolf and hare roads getting
better.^
M. 28th, 18 m campt on a little stream a
tributary of Piatt killed 2 antelope in buffalo
country.
T. 29th, 15 m campt on Platte rained all
night and blew like pell-mell.
W. 30 Lay by cold rained all day very
uncomfortable.
Thr 31st 12 m killed a buffalo. Saw an elk
and Antelope and campt water and wood
Rocky Bluffs appeared.
F. June 1st, IS m campt on a slew on the
South Fork of Platte had lots of buffalo
meat.
Sat. 2nd, 15 m campt on big Platte killed
another buffalo crossed at the lower ford.
S. 3rd, 16 m campt on Platte killed antel-
opes lots.
M. 4 lay by several of our wagon box and
repacked (lion took lame).
T. 5th. 15 m campt on river ox very lame
had to turn him out passed some wigwams
and Indians of the Sioux tribe.
W. 6th, 15 m ray train before I had stayed
behind with my ox behind some 8 or 10 m.
Th. 7 still behind ox lame.
Friday, June 8th, Still behind come in sight
of the courthouse rock a stupendous sight
some 3 or 4 hundred feet high one of natures
curiosities has the appearance of an ancient
castle a romantic scene a place where the
poet might take tea and see the sun set lit-
erally in the distant western ground come in
sight of Chimney Rock.
June, Sunday 10th, 20 miles, camped on
Scotts Bluffs at a spring. Bluffs clothed with
cedar and pine.
Monday, 11th, 25 miles, camped on a small
Creek passed Scotts Bluffs came in sight of
Rocky Mountains, Laramie Peak, its appear-
ance is as a rising cloud it was high, the nest
of things.
Tuesday, 12th, 18 miles, camped on the
Platte Willman behind with lame steer.
Wednesday, 13th, 5 or 6 miles, we camped
at Fort Laramie, in fording the river we got
all things wet. The company drove off and
left us in distress.
Thursday, 14th, still at the fort trailer wa-
gons, etc etc.
Friday, 15th, 8 miles left the fort and camp-
ed on Platte nothing extra ordinary took
place.
Saturday 16th, 20 miles camped on a small
swift stream fed from the mountains passed
the warm springs.
Sunday, 17th, lay by fitted our wagon set
the tires and nut in an extra etc.
Monday, 18th, some 18 miles, camped by
a fine stream of water. Horse creek found
a box of coffee commenced to travel with
company Buel of Missouri and Levens of Il-
linois, crossed the Black Hills some of them
very broken.
Tuesday, 19th. 10 miles, still on the Black-
hills and camped on them.
Wednesday, 20th, 16 miles, camped 6 miles
from Platte at a spring.
Thursdav. 21st. 18 mil^s, struck Platte at
Deer Creek, Jerseyville Company was cross-
ing the Platte camped on Platte.
Friday 22nd, 17 miles camped at the More-
ior ferry.
Saturday, 23rd, lay at the ferry refitted our
Buggy.
Sunday, 24th. crowed the ferry and went
5 miles camned on Platte.
Monday, 25th, 28 V2 miles camped at Wil-
low spring saw any amount of deer and lame
oxens.
Tuesday, 26th. 15 miles, camped on a small
stream of water, fine lots of ^mall rains a
heavenly shower refreshed animate creation
as well as 8 miles from S"*ePtwater.
Wednesday 27th, came to Independence
Rock it is a large mass of solid rock cov-
ered with a thousand names, mine I left on
the W side, it seems to have been ushered
from the bowels of th^ earth.
Thursday 28th, 15 miles camped on Sweet-
water passed the Devils Gate it is a pap in
the mountains which the water foucht
through, some thirty feet wide the banks 400
feet perpendicular high.
Friday 29th, 16 or 18 miles camped on the
Sweetwater.
Saturday 30th, 15 miles on Sweetwater I
killed a mountain hare and an antelope I
went hunting myself.
July, Sunday 1st, lay by on Sweetwater.
Monday, 2nd. 8 miles, roueh roads saw
lots of snow wind cold high hills approach-
ing the mountains.
Tuesday 3rd, 15 miles came to the summit
nassed the ice springs had plenty of ice the
mountains amazing high. A person to be
placed there of a sudden would wake in
their dream that he had escaped from this
earth would think he was in realms unknown.
Started on the descent then down the rugged
cliffs we passed our way over, our wagons
began to rack and tremble loose. Came to
the pacific springs and camped.
Wednesday 4th, now broke on us the Am-
erican Anniversary the bright sun seemed
to bring good and merry tidings from the
east. 12 miles camped on Little Sandy.
Thursday 5th, 12 miles camped on Big
Sandy, caught the old company took the
cut off.
Friday, 6th, Lay by until three o'clock in
the afternoon, then went for Green River 53
miles no water first end of road good the last
pretty rough got Green River about Sunday
8,h, ferried the river.
Monday 9th, 8 miles camped on a creek
fine grass passed the old company at noon.
Tues, Wed, Thurs, Friday traveling from
Green River to Bare River good grass and
1 lenty of sage and come to Bare River on
Friday. And on Sat. Sun. Mon. Tue. &
Wed., till noon traveling down Bare River
which is a camping ground from where we
came to it till we left. The Soda Springs
are a great curiosity. We left Bare River.
Wednesday 18th, at noon traveled 15 miles
o"n*Tt westerly direction had splendid grass
and water and willows. Took Hedgepeth's
cut off.
Saturday 21st, 15 miles grass wood and
water plenty at noon and night.
Sunday, 22nd, 25 miles no water in this
distance good grass and tolerable good road
come to water in spring hollow water and
grass plenty, mountain sage also. The gen-
eral tenor of all the aforesaid cut off is good
road with the exception of a few steep short
pulls.
Monday 23rd, 9 miles camped at a spring
lust on the W. side of the summit of the
mountains.
Tuesday 24th, 23 miles camped on a creek
in valley.
Wednesday 25th, 6 miles camped on raft
on river in sight of the Hall Road.
October 17th, 1849. Westward. This' dav
W. C. Crabb and self desolved, one yoke of
oxen and one wagon $142.50 divided 71%.
The cradle, 1 shovel, 1 frying pan, 1 tin, 1
coffee pot and blue buckett. Note of 80
dollars to James Brady, Hankins, Ceavers,
Davis and Hannibal House * * *
Sat. Dec. 8th, 1849. Started from Sacre-
mento to getting out timber up the Sacri-
mento with following names. Commenced
work Fridav 14th.
Alvey s/4 F. S. S. M. T.
Baker % \ \ 11
Burk 3/4 1 l 14 1
Constant yA \ \ y2 \
Caley V4 1 1 y, \
Williams y2 \ \ y2 \
Hauley y 1 y2 \ y2
An account of duebills out to the following
persons bearing date Jan. 3, 1850.
T. 2nd,
Burk the sum $115.00
VV. W. Sheby the sum 122.50
Constant the sum 87.25
Sealv the sum 71.25
T. B. Alvev paid 84.00
March 1st, 1850 Received of W. W. Chap-
man 164 stick of hewn timber from 7 to 1 1
feet long and from four to eight square
inches amount 1476 feet, one hundred and
seventy feet which is due Hardy the afore-
said lumber received from Alex Little to be
sold at 30 cents per foot.
March the 2nd, 1850 This day Alex Little
myself and Hosa, an Indian boy started from
Vernon to the mines of gold.
March 3rd took another Indian William,
Indians left May the 7th, 1850.
March 14th, Things which I bought sugar
and flour $7.80, flour pork, 20.00 Beef 11.00,
Beans and Eugar 9.00, shoes 3 pair * * *
12.00 tobacco 1.00 to E. Eldred for hailing
goods and tools 15.00 by Joseph Crabb beef
& 25.00 from ship 3.00 * * *
September 6, 1850 left the mines Francisco
17th, arrived at Reoley's 7th of October, ar-
rived at San Juan 4th of Mav, left San Juan
14th Mav.
Duluth, Minn., July 5th, 1898.
Col. C. G. Coutant, Laramie, Wyoming.
Dear Col:—
Your letter enclosing some pages of history
of Fort Washakie, only reached me today.
I have such' a press of work on hand that
I am unable to devote much time to the
doing of any "history" work, but have run
off something in that line that you are wel-
come to if you feel inclined to use, and if it
be not too late to be available, which I ex-
pect is the case. Should you wish to use any
part of that which I send, do not hesitate to
use a blue pencil on it.
Yours truly,
R. A. TARRUP.
The telegraph line was built after my time.
Dr. Maghee of Rawlins could tell you all
about it.
Fort Washakie, Wyoming.
Latitude 42-59 North.
Longtitude 31-51 West Wash.
Located on the Shoshone Indian Reserva-
tion in the Wind River Valley, thirty-two
miles a little east of north from Atlantic
City, Wyoming. The Post to which this is
the successor was established on June 28th,
1869, on the site now occupied by Lander,
the county seat of Fremont County, Wyo-
ming, and was then designated as a sub-post
of Fort Bridger, Wyoming.
It was named Camp Augur in compliment
to Brigadier General C. C. Augur, U. S. A.,
then commanding the Department of the
Platte.
The Post was established in compliance
with the terms of a treaty with the Shoshone
and Bannock Indians for their protection
against the Sioux, Arapahoes, and Cheyenne
as well as other hostile bands.
Temporary quarters were soon erected and
occupied by a company of the 4th U. S. In-
fantry under command of Colonel Bartlett
of the same regiment. Its designation was
changed to Camp Brown in accordance with
General Orders No. 12, Headquarters De-
partment of the Platte, March 28, 1870, and
on August 20, of the same year, it was an-
nounced as an independent Post by General
Orders No. 35, Headquarters Department of
10
the Platte, series of 1870 in honor of the
memory of Captain Frederick H. Brown,
18th Infantry, who was killed at the Fort
Phil Kearny massacre, December 21, 1866.
In the spring of 1871 Captain Robert A.
Torrey, 13th Infantry, U. S. Cavalry, re-
lieved the garrison then, at Camp Brown
and was given orders to select a site for the
post to be moved to, which was done June
26th, 1871, the location being on the south
bank of the South Fork of Little Wind River
about one hundred and fifty yards above its
junction with the North Fork, where Fort
Washakie now stands, on the Shoshoni In-
dian Reservation; the old post was aban-
doned, all available material being transport-
ed to and used in the construction of the new
post. Adobes were the material selected for
the construction of the post, and by autumn
the officers and troops were well and com-
fortably housed, almost entirely by their own
labor.
Lieut. H. C. Pratt, 13th Infantry, was one
of the first officers to serve at the new post.
Lieut. John B. Guthrie, since captain of his
own old company, and recentl}' wounded in
the battles before Santiago de Cuba was sta-
tioned for a considerable time at the post.
Dr. R. B. Grimes, now a well known phy-
sician at Cheyenne, Wyoming, was one of
the early post surgeons, and so was Dr.
Maghee, the well known physician and sur-
geon at Rawlins, Wyoming, who rendered
effective service both at the post and with
Captain Bate's expedition against hostile In-
dians.
Captain A. E. Bates, since a Brigadier Gen-
eral of.U. S. Volunteers, with his Company
of the 2nd U. S. Cavalry formed a part of
the garrison at an early day.
Major Baker of the 2nd Cavalry, a well
known fighter of the war of the rebellion,
and later in Indian campaigns, commanded
the post at one time, being relieved in the
winter of 73-74 to command an expedition
against hostile Indians.
Hostile Indians made an attack on the old
post soon after the arrival of Company "A,"
13th Infantry, resulting in a very lively skir-
mish which took place within sight of where
Lander now stands, no serious damage be-
ing done by the enemy who were beaten off.
Somewhat later a woman living near the
site of the abandoned post was murdered
and mutilated by Indians. A number of
other hostile raids were made at different
times, the settlers being kept in an almost
constant state of alarm.
In the spring of 1873 the commanding of-
ficer of the post was ordered to take a com-
pany of men and explore toward the head
of Big Wind River to ascertain whether a
practicable route for a wagon road existed,
and loaded wagons were taken above the
mouth of De Noire Fork.
In the early spring of 1874 the Northern
Cheyennes and Arapahoes, two bands at that
time affiliated with the Indians belonging to
Red Cloud's Agency; usually made their
home at "Pumpkin Butte," near the Powder
River, or further west in the valley of the
Big Horn where the Wind River breaks
through the Big Horn Mountains. From
this last point they commenced a series of
raids upon the friendly Shoshones near Camp
Brown (Fort Washakie) in the Wind River
country, also stealing stock from the settlers
in the valleys of the Big and Little Popo-
aggie Rivers.
Captain A. E. Bates with Troop "B," 2nd
Cavalry, a detachment of Company "A," 13th
Infantry and about one hundred and sixty
friendly Shoshones, started from Camp
Brown (Fort Washakie) to break up a ren-
dezvous of the Northern Cheyennes and
Arapahoes, discovered about ninety miles
from Camp Brown, and on July 4th, 1874,
came up with and engaged them, and after
a gallant fight completely defeated the hos-
tiles near Bad Water branch of the Wind
River, Wyoming. Twenty-six Indians were
killed, over twenty wounded and two hun-
dred and thirty ponies captured. The troops
had four killed and six wounded, among the
latter being Lieut. R. H. Young, 4th Infan-
try.
On December 30th, 1878, the designation
of the post was changed to Fort Washakie,
pursuant to General Orders No. 9, Head-
quarters Division of the Missouri, series of
1878, in compliment to an Indian named
"Washakie," chief of the Shoshones in Wyo-
ming, who is a half breed Snake and Flat-
head, with a benevolent and kindly expres-
sion of countenance, well made, strictly hon-
est, and possesses superior intelligence and in-
fluence, brave to a fault, and long time friend
of the white man.
On April 29th, 1882, Lieut. George H.
Morgan, Third Cavalry, with a detachment
of six men from Troop "K" of the same
regiment, was sent from the post to arrest
"Ute Jack," a chief of the White River Utes.
Armed with knife, "Ute Jack" resisted arrest,
attempted to escape, when he was wounded
by a shot from the guard. He then took
refuge in an Indian tepee where he obtained
a carbine and succeeded in killing the ser-
geant of the detachment. Major Mason,
Third Cavalry, arrived on the spot soon after,
and further measures were taken, resulting in
the capture and death of the Indian. Fort
Washakie has been continuously occupied
from its establishment to date.
CHERRY CREEK MASSACRE
W. W. Towse, my father, a native of
Qubec, Maine, passed away at Chivington,
Colo., four years ago at the age fo 84. In
his youth he had been a seafaring man, went
to California through Panama, came to Wyo-
ming ahead of the Union Pacific, had a
ranch at Rawlins. I last visited him in 1915.
He then told of the Indian affair outlined
in the Coutant notes. The object of the at-
tack, which was made on the east and west
ends of the town at the same time was to
secure horses in a corral near the Springs.
Several Indians fired on us children at long
range. Our mother rushed us in the old log
house and barricaded the door. At the east
end of the town Perry Smith at the slaugh-
ter house replied to the fire of the hostiles.
This group quickly rejoined the party at the
west end. Father, on the best horse in the
settlement and with an excellent rifle started
11
with several others after the Indians and
overtook them at a place called "Cherry
Creek." Here the little engagement took
place as described in the Coutant notes. Fa-
ther said the Indians made a great effort to
carry off the body of the one he had killed.
I asked him why he exposed himself as he
did and he said that he had only contempt
for an Indian with a rifle, that the Redman
did not understand the "use of a hind sight.'
It is related that several bullets broke the
dust near father.
The body of the Indian was taken to the
railway track and brought into town on a
switch engine. After much bantering father
proceeded to scalp the Indian, though he did
not care for that sort of thing. Mother would
not allow the scalp in the house and father
and "Uncle Dan" Towse, his brother, stowed
it in a large tin can in the barn for the night.
A few days later father sold it to a Chicago
newspaper man for $50.00.
1 believe that father was also with the
party that killed a number of raiding Indians
at a place called "Lone Pine." This affair
was investigated by a congressional com-
mittee, but nothing came of it. Father also
joined a number of prospecting parties north
of^the- Sweetwater into the South Pass coun-
try, "^vvhere they met fighting Indians and on
one occasion were besieged in a log cabin
for several days. They were well prepared
for this. The camp was on a hilltop and
they had ample supplies of food and water.
My Uncle Dan Towse, who afterwards be-
came a banker in Southern Colorado, was
also a typical frontiersman. He had the rep-
utation of being the only man who ever made
Jack Watkins, a famous bad man of the day,
"take water."
ED TOWSE, of Honolulu, T. H.
Chevcnne, Wyoming.
July 2, 1923.
EARLY EXPLORERS
By GEORGE H. CROSS
Last winter our Legislature commenced
making inquiries regarding early explorers
with the intention of giving their names to
new counties, but they ignored one I call the
greatest early explorer of Wyoming, a man
who made himself immortal. I refer to Rob-
ert Stuart, who in 1812, as leader of the Astor
Expedition crossed what is now Wyoming,
on his way to report to Mr. Astor in New
York.
Robert Stuart with his little band of heroes
started from Astoria, at the mouth of the
Columbia river on the 29th day of June,
1812, well equipped with both saddle and
pack horses, and after a long, hazardous jour-
ney, reached the border of what is now Wyo-
ming, where the Indians stole all their horses,
leaving them on foot in an unknown country
among hostile savages.
You can imagine how they felt probably.
Some of you old timers have been in the
same predicament when you lost your horses
in the mountains or on the prairie and hunted
them for days without finding them, running
the risk of being scalped. Fortunately for
the Astorians they got a horse, although
jaded, for a few trinkets from a friendly band
of Indians, which proved a savior to them,
as among other things they made him carry
their scanty supply of bedding. Several times
they nearly died of starvation, as no game
of any kind was encountered for many days.
The severity of the winter had driven it
south, but a trap they had, proved a God-
send, as with it they caught a beaver, and
on one occasion a wolf. They got into what
is now Wyoming in October, 1812, passing
the Teton mountains. These mountains re-
ceived their name from French-Canadian
trappers in the employ of the Northwest
Fur Company, Teton meaning "a woman's
breast."
In 1787, McKenzie, McTavish, McGillivray,
McLeod, and other Scotch fur traders of
Montreal, Canada, founded the famous
Northwest Fur Company, the most aggres-
sive fur company that ever operated on the
continent of North America. The "Nor-
westers" as they were familiarly called, be-
came at this time the chief influence in trade
and in public affairs in French Canada. The
executive and legislative councils of Lower
Canada were made up of Nor-westers or
those under their influence. Even the judges
on the bench must bow before this powerful
combination. Although Canada had been
taken from France by Great Britain less than
thirty years previously, this company won
the affections of the French Canadians, be-
tween two and three thousand of whom they
employed as trappers and voyagers, dispers-
ing them over the Hudson Bay Company's
territory, now known as the Candaian North-
west, the States of Oregon, Washington,
Idaho, Montana and Northern Wyoming,
the boundary line between" Canada and the
United States not being at that time desig-
nated. Forts were established over this im-
mense territory by the Company. The chief
officials were called by them bourgeois, and
were Scotchmen, and the employees, French
Canadians. This accounts for so many of
the physical objects in our western States
having French names.
To show the extent of this company's
power and influence, John Jacob Astor, who
established Fort Astoria at the mouth of the
Columbia river in 1811, was regarded by it
as an intruder, and was boldly opposed by
its trappers, who occupied the headwaters of
the streams and succeeded in monopolizing
the fur trade. Mr. Astor was glad to sell
out in 1813 to these determined traders of
Montreal.
In 1805 Lewis and Clark had given up all
hope of finding a pass across the mountains
on their exploring journey to the Pacific
ocean, when the Indian woman, Sacajawea,
wife of Chaboneau, an employee of the
Northwest Fur Company, snowed them a
way through the mountain defiles. The Nor'-
westers had evidently overrun this unknown
country prior to the advent of Lewis and
Clark.
To return to our explorers, Robert Stuart
and his companions, who after passing the
Teton mountains hopelessly wandered in dif-
ferent directions until they discovered the
Sweetwater river. Descending it they came
to the North Platte river which they fol-
12
lowed, as it ran in an easterly direction, be-
lieving it would lead them to the Missouri
river and civilization, passing on the wav the
present site of the Pathfinder dam, and going
into winter quarters just below it, where they
built a warm, comfortable log cabin. As
game was plentiful they soon had their larder
well stocked with buffalo, deer and elk meat,
sufficient to carry them through the winter.
The party now reveled in abundance after
all they had suffered from hunger, fatigue
and the severity of a cold, hard winter.
From such happy dreams they were start-
led one morning at day-break by a savage
yell, and much to their dismay saw the tim-
ber on the river alive with Indian warriors,
whom they soon found out to be an Arapahoe
war party on the trail of some Crows who
had carried off some of their women and
most of their horses, from a village situated
several days to the east.
The Stuart party invited the Indians to
partake of their hospitality, which they were
delighted to do, gormandizing all day and
for a good part of the following night. The
next morning, fortunately for the Astorians,
the Indians left, carrying with them winter
stores to last them a week. As soon as the
Indians were out of sight, the little party
held a council and determined to move and
thus take no chance of the savages returning,
so on the 13th day of December, 1812, they
left their comfortable winter camp, where
they had enjoyed sweet repose, and a well
earned rest for five short weeks.
The weather was extremely cold, the snow
deep and crusted through, which they broke
at every step, causing soreness of the feet.
They hurried on, sleeping where night over-
took them, going down the north side of the
Platte river, passing in sight of the present
towns of Casper, Glenrock and Douglas, and
the future site of historic Fort Laramie, and
going into winter quarters a second time,
about on the border of the present States of
Wyoming and Nebraska. There they so-
journed for a time, reaching St. Louis on the
30th of April.
Robert Stuart blazed the way for a new
road across the continent. He will always
be known as the Pioneer Explorer of the
North Platte River and Overland Trail, the
discoverer of the most practical route across
the muontains, which saved the great Oregon
Territory from falling under the Dominion
of Canada.
What has Wyoming done to honor the
memory of her greatest explorer? Nothing.
Even President Roosevelt, an historian, dis-
played great ignorance of our early history,
by naming the Pathfinder dam after a man
who did not pass its site until thirty years
after Robert Stuart had explored it, and then
with all the comforts of a LTnited States army
officer, with troops looking after his welfare.
A word or two about Fort Laramie, the
historical ground of our State. There is more
of history connected with it than any other
part of Wyoming. This fort was established
by Robert Campbell, in 1834. He called it
Fort William after his friend and partner,
William Sublette. Unlike our Legislature,
he did not consider Sublette very euphonious.
Campbell and Sublett sold the fort to Jim
Bridger and Milton Sublette, a brother of
William, who turned it over to the Ameri-
can Fur Company in 1833. This company
highly esteemed the Sioux as great hunters,
as it had procured great quantities of furs
from them through the numerous forts in the
Indian country, so on its acquisition of Fort
Laramie it sent two men, Kilplin and Sibylle
over the Missouri river, the domain of the
Sioux, to persuade some of them to move to
Fort Laramie.
The mission of these men was very success-
ful as they returned with one hundred lodges
of Ogallalas under the command of Chief
Bull-bear. The Sioux could not have been
strangers in the Fort Laramie country as
Red Cloud, ( Moopeacloud, lute-red) claims
he was born between Rawhide creek and Fort
Laramie in 1819.
I was reading Major Powell's history of
Fort Laramie, published in Frank Leslie's
magazine in 1895, where he mentions that
Jacques Laramie, from whom the fort re-
ceived its name, was a French trapper, who
was killed by Arapahoe Indians. He was
not a Frenchman. We have had in Wyoming
three different French nations, namely
French Canadians, our own French from
Missouri and Louisiana and Frenchmen from
France. Jacques Laramie was a French Ca-
nadian. 1 paid a visit to Eastern Canada
during the war and while there interviewed
a leading French Canadian, who resented his
people being called French. He said, "We
are not French, having less sentiment for
and less attachment to France than the
Americans have for England. We are bit-
terly opposed to conscription and taking part
in European wars."
In 1846 when Francis Parkman, the his-
torian, with his friend Shaw visited Fort
Laramie, Papin was bourgeois and Bordeaux
his deputy, both of whom were French Ca-
nadians. You will notice the Northwest Fur
Company's name "Bourgeois" is used for the
chief official of a fort. Fort Laramie was
sold by the American Fur Company to the
United States Government in 1849 for four
thousand dollars.
I will now drift over to later days to epi-
sodes within the memory of those of us who
are alive, and recall incidents in the history
of the Fort Fetterman country.
Forts Russell and Fetterman were estab-
lished by the LTnited States Government in
1867. The year 1868 was eventful for Wyo-
ming, as that was when Congress set it off
as a territory. In the same year the great
Sioux Treaty was signed at Fort Laramie,
one of the signers for the United States Gov-
ernment being General W. T. Sherman. In
that treaty the government agreed to abolish
all forts north of the Platte river, but unfor-
tunately for peace, the terms in the treaty
were never fulfilled. That is what started
Red Cloud on his war against the whites.
He said, "If the buffalo are exterminated, my
neople will have to get on their knees and
beg for a living."
When we spoke o fthe Fetterman country
in the early seventies, we included the follow-
ing creeks, viz: Horseshoe, LaBonte, Wa-
13
teonhound, La Prele, Box Elder and Deer
creek. Robert Walker and Skew Johnson
established a cattle ranch on Horseshoe in
1874. William Daily, Clint Graham, Joseph
and Andrew Sullivan, Alec Wilson and
Charles Campbell drove cattle from Colorado
and settled on La Bonte creek in 1875.
I remember that when cattle strayed from
there across the North Platte river, it was
risky to go after them. One day some of
the boys crossed the river to round them up
and bring them back to the range on La
Bonte and to their great surprise they dis-
covered eleven ponies grazing on a hillside
close to where Lost Creek empties into the
Platte. Their Indian owners were camped
a short distance away eating a meal. With-
out a moment's hesitation, the boys urging
their horses to their utmost speed, dashed
in between the Indians and their ponies and
succeeded in driving the latter away from
their owners, not however, without running
the gauntlet of a fusillade of bullets as the
Indians, realizing their intentions, did their
utmost to frustrate them. In the scrimmage.
Daily was knocked off his horse by a ball
that struck a heavy cartridge belt he wore
around his waist, causing it to glance off
without doing any permanent injury.
Tne captured horses were driven to the La
Bonte ranch. One was retained there for
use as a cow horse, one was ridden to Col-
orado by one of the boys and the remaining
nine were sent to a ranch on Horseshoe,
near Cheyenne, where they were supposed
to be out of reach of the Indians, but it was
not long before the owners found out their
whereabouts and recovered the nine horses.
The other two they never found.
In the fall of 1876 Andrew Sullivan was
killed by Indians on a tributary of La Bonte
creek and two years later his brother was
killed by a horse on La Prele creek. In
1874 Speed Stagner had a herd of cattle on
La Prele and Al Ayres and George Powell
wintered their oxen on the same creek. In
that year John Hunton had cattle on the old
S O Ranch on Box Elder creek, which he
then owned. In the year 1877 the great
movement of cattle from the South com-
menced.
The following parties established their cow
ranches that year, namely: William C. Irvine,
on the Platte river where the home of James
C. Shaw is now located. A few miles farther
up the river, his neighbor was John Sparks,
who was aftrew'ards Governor of Nevada.
Douglas William settled on Wagon Hound
creek, Emerson Brothers, Eugene Baker. J.
H. Kennedy, Steve Day and Byron Hamble-
ton on La Prele creek. Farther west on the
Platte river, Taylor Brothers and Governor
Boyd, of Nebraska, located. Major Wolcott
settled on Deer creek and J. M. Carey and
Brothers made a cow camp out of the ruins
of old Fort Casper. Their foreman, John
Lind, was a renowned cowman. In 1878
the first cattle round up on both sides of the
North Platte river, between Fort Laramie
Had old Fort Casper, occurred under com-
mand of Michael Oxart, who was then fore-
man for William C. Irvine. Th;s was prob-
ably the best equipped round ip in horses
and men that ever took place in Wyoming.
For my valedictory I emote the words of
the historian, Francis Parkman, written in
Boston in 1872, over a quarter of a century
after his visit to the Rocky Mountains. He
said, "The wild cavalcade that defiled with
me down the gorges of the Black Hills with
its paint and war plumes, fluttering trophies
and savage embroidery, bows, arrows, lances
and shields, will never be seen again. Those
who formed it have found bloody graves. The
mountain trapper is no more, and the grim
romance of his wild, hard life is a memory
of the past."
I will add: The old forts are dismantled;
neither the piercing blast of the trumpet nor
the warlike sound of the fife and drum that
disturbed the slumbers of the soldiers at
reveille will ever more be heard. Silence
reigns within those crumbling walls. The
free, open, unlimited range and with it the
big hearted cowman, whose latch was ever
open to friend and stranger, and the fearless,
hard-working, generous cowboy, are gone
forever.
The pioneer sheds tears for his lost Eden.
Hudson, Wyoming.
July 28th, 1923.
State Historian,
Mrs. Cyrus Beard,
Cheyenne, Wyoming.
Dear Mrs. Beard: —
In the essay written by Agnes R. Wright
regarding the South Pass Country, I wish
to call your attention (on page 6) to where
she speaks of South Pass City and Camp
Stambaugh, also of Fort Stambaugh and
what she says might lead one to imagine that
this was an earlier date than Camp Stam-
baugh was established, which was I believe
in 1870 or 71. I think 71 is probably cor-
rect and South Pass City in '68 or '69. Camp
Stambaugh is about six miles northeast of
South Pass City and was named after Lieu-
tenant Stambaugh, who was killed by the
Indians on a little creek about six miles
(possiblv less) northeast of Camp Stam-
baugh in 1871 or 72. I think 71. It don't
seem to me that there could be any fort by
that name other than Camp Stambaugh. I
was stationed there as telegraph operator
from the spring of 1873 to 78 and it seems
to me that if there was such a place as she
speaks of other than Camp Stambaugh, where
I was stationed, I would have known about
it. It also leads one to believe that the
South Pass is a narrow pass thru the moun-
tains, while in fact it is a broad, open, rolling
country, many miles wide. I am sure also
there is an error in her date that in 1881 a
mail service became necessary and that the
line ran over the regular route.
In 1873, the year I came here, the stages
were coming from Green River City and had
been so doing for several years, furnishing
mail and passenger service for South Pass,
Atlantic City and Miners Delight and Camp
Stambaugh and later on Lander. I think this
line was owned by Ben Holliday.
I hope to be able some day to write a
little of the early history of this section as I
know it from 1873 to the present time. If
14
these are errors I speak of, and I think they
are, they should be corrected, as I think his-
tory should be recorded as perfect as possi-
ble. Anything I can do to help it along shall
be very glad to do it.
Very sincerely yours,
R. H. HALL.
COUTANT NOTES
(1886)
There is some uncertainty about the erec-
tion of the first building in Cheyenne but
while several small shanties and portable
buildings were put up among the great field
of tents and wagons which then dotted the
shores of Crow creek, the first substantial
wooden building, erected on the present site
of the flourishing city of Cheyenne, was built
by Judge J. R. Whitehead and its erection
was commenced on July 1st, 1867. This
building, the material of which had to be cut
and hauled from the foothills "twenty miles
away" at great expense, is still standing in an
excellent state of preservation on Eddy street
in Cheyenne.
Across the street and where Ellis's estab-
lishment now stands Judge Whitehead at this
time had a tent pitched which served as a
temporary home and a law office as well.
Into this tent on the second day after the
erection of the building had been commenced
walked a tall pale faced young man who in-
quired for Judge Whitehead. The Judge was
there and responded for himself when the
young man who had walked nearly all the
way from Denver handed him a letter. The
letter was from an old friend of Judge White-
head's in Denver, introducing W. W. Corlett,
and suggesting that it might be a good plan
to form a law partnership with him. "Well,"
said Judge Whitehead, "I am very busy just
now with other business and if you have a
mind to try your hand with me in the law
business you can do so. This is my office
and here are my books and papers. Pitch
in for everything you see in sight." While
the Judge was speaking a party came in who
wanted some kind of a paper drawn. Cor-
lett seated himself at the only table in the
tent and proceeded to "pitch in." The paper
was drawn up in fine form for which the
young lawyer received two five dollar green-
backs, one of which he handed to Judge
Whitehead, keeping the other himself. The
law partnership and firm of Corlett & White-
head, which lasted for some years, was form-
ed then and there. As soon as the survey
of the town site was completed and even be-
fore the sale of town lots was begun, some
of them bringing fabulous prices, the erection
of many other buildings, principally along
what is now Sixteenth, Seventeenth, Eddy,
Thomes and O'Neil streets, was at once be-
gun and in a very few days after the com-
pletion of the survey (July 19th) the embryo
city began to acquire quite a substantial ap-
pearance. All kinds of business establish-
ments, believed to be three and four hundred
in all, were opened, and among them several
gambling houses and as many as sixty sa-
loons. Boarding houses and small hotels also
began to spring up, and among the latter the
"Dodge House," near the corner of O'Neil
and Eighteenth streets, which is still standing
and being used as a steam laundry. The
population of the city, which had been of-
ficially christened "Cheyenne," began to be
estimated by the thousands long before the
season was over, and it was made up of men,
women and children from nearly every
country and clime on the face of the globe.
This population was composed of three ele-
ments, the active respectable and energetic
business men, the transient and the uncer-
tain element, which contained many bad char-
acters of both sexes. While it has many
times been said and no doubt believed, to
the contrary there never was a time in the
history of the early days of the Magic City
of the Plains when the respectable element
of its people did not outnumber all other
classes nearlv two to one.
December, 1877, Air. C. W. Bramlee
bought 568 sheep at a ranch twenty-three
miles from Laramie City, and went to Lara-
mie to make some arrangements connected
with the purchase. Next day, Sunday, De-
cember 30th, Mr. Bramlee returned to the
ranch for them, and found that a mountain
lion had got into the pen and killed 54 of
the sheep and six were wounded. That night
a beaver trap was set at the corrals and the
mountain lion put his foot into the trap, but
the trap was not sufficiently fastened to hold
the lion, so the lion got away from the cor-
ral, and took the trap with him. Messrs.
Daugherty and Clugstone started on the trail
of the mountain lion and overtook the lion
some two miles away. Mr. Daugherty fired
at the lion, and if it had not been for a dog
with the party he would undoubtedly have
been killed, as the lion made a leap for him,
but was foiled by the dog, giving Mr. Daugh-
erty an opportunity of firing two more shots,
which proved effectual and gave the party
the opportunity of killing the lion, which
proved to be very large — seven feet and three
inches in length, and weighing about 200
pounds. — "American Field" of 1881.
NOTES
(Historian)
District number three reports the perman-
ent organization of a local Historical So-
ciety, with the following officers: Repre-
sentative, P. W. Jenkins, Cora, President;
Mr. Al Osterhaut, Big Piney, Vice President-.
Mrs. Frances Clark, Cora, Secretary; Mrs.
Vigo Miller, Daniel; Mr. John Budd, Big
Piney; Mr. E. V. Cockins, Pinedale; Mr. B.
N. Tibbies, Boulder, together with the elec-
tive officers make up the Advisory Board.
Mr. P. W. Jenkins is a member of the State
Advisory Board from this district.
Mr. R. D. Hawley, Advisory Board mem-
ber from District number six, and Miss Mar-
gery Ross, member for District number five,
report that Historical records are being col-
lected in their districts. Mr. E. H. Fourt
is organizing Societies in District number
eight.
Mr. MoekLr of Casper has recently pub-
lished his Htstorv of Natrona County. This
15
is the first of the County Histories to appear
and is a valuable addition to any library.
Mrs. Charles Stone has her History of Uinta
County nearly completed.
Mr. E. T. Payton, well known in newspa-
per circles in Wyoming, has issued Nos. 1
and 2 of his "Mad Men" series of booklets.
No. 1 has gone into the second edition.
Philip Ashton Rollins is a native of New
Hampshire but spent much of his early life
in the west and rode the range in Wyoming.
Alter graduating from Pinceton he became
a corporation lawyer, in which profession he
continued until the breaking out of the World
War. After his return from overseas he
abandoned law and now devotes his entire
time to writing western history. He is a
contributor to the Saturday Evening Post
and is the author of "The Cowboy," which
was published this year.
Arthur H. Clark and Company has just is-
sued "The Journal of John Work." The
Journal is a history of the great fur trading
industry of the Hudson's Bay Company's
activities in the Snake River district. The
Journal gives the record of Work's hunting,
trading and exploring expeditions in those
regions of which Montana and Idaho now
form a part. There are several geographical
illustrations and a map of John Work's
route. The book has a complete index and
many foot notes. The edition is limited to
one thousand copies and the type distributed
and there will be no reprints. Price $6.00.
The State Historical Department has pur-
chased one copy.
Extract of a letter written to the State
Historical Department:
I was born in Gloversville, Fulton county,
New York, around 1878, and still have friends
and relatives in that vicinity, where I some-
times visit. Lived also in Massachusetts,
my father's native state. In my twenties I
started roving without a fixed purpose except
to gain a varied experience, and so I traveled
from Canada to the Gulf and from coast to
coast and at last came to Wyoming in the
"Tenderfoot Rush" in 1906 for the purpose
nf homesteading some of the well known
"free land" that had been opened for entry
on the Wind River reservation in Fremont
county. I proved up on my land in 1908
by commuting and soon after came to Casper,
where I still reside. It is clear that I have
no model successful life to boast of, and am
by nature and instinct an humble and ob-
scure citizen without political affiliations or
lodge degrees. I married in recent years the
sweetheart of my childhood, also from Fulton
county, New York, and we are very happy,
strange to say! Have been a man of many
and varied occupations, the present one being
correspondent and general utility man in the
office of the Inland Oil Index.
Your* very truly,
ROY CHURCHILL SMITH.
WYOMING DAYS
By ROY C. SMITH
O sing us a song of the wilds of Wyoming,
A song of the Plains and the rolling brown
hills.
Not boastful, but playful, that sets Fancy
roaming
To the sunny green slopes where the
meadow lark trills.
The great silent spaces where cattle are graz-
ing.
Remote from mankind in this altitude
high ;
The shadowy dusk, with the red sunset blaz-
ing
From behind the bald peaks sharp against
the clear sky.
There's a sod covered shack on the old Reser-
vation,
A corral of pine poles by the side of a
stream,
And here, far removed from all civilization
Are the cow ponies trained by the cow boy,
supreme.
There are ranches and farms — there are
mines in Wyoming;
There are hamlets remote from which news
never comes.
There are forests untouched where the big
game is roaming,
Where the trout leap the falls and the
wood partridge drums.
Our progress is marked by wonderful
changes
In our cities and towns since the country
was young,
But this song is a song of the wide open
ranges
Where the live stock is grazing the brown
hills among.
Casper, Wyo., 1922.
MY ASSOCIATION WITH WYOMING
By FRANK S. LUSK
In 1877 I was wintering in Denver instead
of on the ranch, when Henry Stratton, son.
of my father's partner in the business college
firm of Bryant, Lusk and Stratton died near
Fort Collins. His mother in New York
wired me asking if I would bring his body
East. He had spent a good deal of time in
and about Cheyenne and was pretty well
known to a good many of the people there,
so I went via Cheyenne, where I had pre-
viously wired the Converse & Warren Com-
pany as it was then, to meet me, telling them
my mission. One of the pleasantest, most
energetic and efficient men I ever met was
at the station. He proved to be F. E. War-
ren, with whom I have maintained a friend-
ship ever since. There were also several
other of Henry Stratton's friends and every
one was so nice that I was very much im-
pressed with the class of people then in the
Territory.
\ was at that time in the cattle business
in Colorado, east of Greeley. In 1879, we
16
thought we were being crowded and deter-
mined to move. My partners were favorable
to moving into eastern Colorado, close to
the Nebraska line, but I remembered that
the people I had met earlier in Wyoming
and those I had subsequently met, were a
tine class of people and I decided that we
would go to Wyoming. We did not really
move our headquarters until 1880, although
cattle we were interested in and acquired
wholly at a later date were moved into the
Hat Creek Basin Country in 1879. We lo-
cated our home ranch on Running Water,
about 15 miles east of where Lusk is now
situated. The station, "Node Ranch" was
named after our brand and that ranch. In
1882, I acquired from a man named Newton
and George Wilson, some land just south of
where Lusk is now located and at the cross-
ing of Running Water by the Black Hill's
Stage Road and a year later I established
a horse ranch where the present town of
Lusk is located. The post office, Lusk, was
established, 1 think in 1882, as a star route
Post Office on the mail route from Chey-
enne to the Black Hills. It was established
at the instance and on the recommendation
of Luke Voorhees, who attended to all the
details and who named the Post Office.
The cattle that belonged to the Company
that I was operating, ran almost entirely over
in the Hat Creek Basin, with a few on Run-
ning Water, now called Niobrara River.
Prior to 1880, we had either purchased small
bunches of cattle from neighbors or brought
cattle up from Texas. The winter of 1880
was very disastrous to cattle men and par-
ticularly hard on Texas cattle, so we decided
to buy western cattle. I spent a good deal
of time in the winter of 1880 and 1881 in
Nevada and in various western localities.
In 1881, E. WT. Madison told me he thought
the northwestern country was a good place
to buy cattle, and went up there. He con-
tracted a good many cattle in southern Mon-
tana, just west of the Yellowstone Park, for
delivery in 1882. I came up in the spring
of 1882 and received the cattle with him and
we attempted to drive the cattle across the
Yellowstone Park on some old Government
roads that were said to have existed. We
had located a ranch the fall before on Gray
Bull, a man named Billy Keating who was
well known in Wyoming, having attended
to the matter for us and these cattle were in-
tended to be the start of a herd in that lo-
cality. When I went up in the summer of
1882 to look the Gray Bull country over,
I did not like it and later purchasers for the
"she" stock and the ranch appeared in the
persons of Dick Ashworth an4 Alex Johnson,
who lived in the country for quite a long
while. The steers we drove down to the
Hat Creek Basin and after that we confined
our cattle operations in Wyoming to the
country around the Hat Creek Basin.
The" winters of '8S-'86 and "86-'87 were
most disastrous. A good many people who
had never had any experience in cattle,
thought all they had to do was to buy the
cattle and turn them loose and when they
got fat, ship them and pull off a big profit.
Generally, they had no conception of how
many cattle could survive and prosper in any
section. In the fall of 1885, I recall that
one man, in spite of protests of everybody
who was running cattle in that section, turn-
ed about 8900 head of big Texas steers loose,
right on top of us. He only gathered about
1/00 of these steers, but it increased the
losses of everybody who had cattle on the
same range, enormously.
Our neighbors in the Hat Creek Basin
were the Emmons & Brewster Company, the
Tom Swan Company, the Converse "O. W."
Company, T. B. Hord, J. Howard Ford, C.
A. Guernsey, and farther up, on the Chey-
enne River, the Fiddle back outfit of E. Til-
lottson and Thomas & Page s outfit. Still
beyond them were the Sturgis & Lane and
Sturgis and Goodell outfits, and over in Da-
kota, N. R. Davis and the Oelrichs' Brothers
ran their cattle.
South of us were Luke Voorhees, Van
Tassell, Billy Irvine, Keeline Brothers, Ad-
ams & Glover & Pratt & Ferris. A good
many of these people have "gone ahead,"
but they were surely a "royal crowd" in their
day.
Our cattle drifted to the south and east
in the winter and our big roundups were
down Rawhide to the North Platte River and
m the hills north of the Platte.
We hunted the country as far down the
Platte as the Sidney Bridge and there wasn't
a settler anywhere in that whole country at
the time, and as far up the Platte as the
Fetterman Bridge.
We also hunted the "south side," but sel-
dom found any cattle there and w'hat were
found there were easily traced, as having
Deen crossed with cattle belonging on that
s»de when they were taken across and a few
strays that had been overlooked. There was
little stealing or rustling in our country in
ihose days. Rustling activities were con-
fined almost wholly to getting the "maver-
icks" which were calves of the previous year
that were unbranded, generally from being
overlooked when rounding up.
There were very few, almost none in fact,
small cattle owners, so the mavericks were
supposed to be owned by the outfit on whose
range they were found and this arrangement
was usually adhered to.
- In 1886, the Chicago & Northwestern road
which owned the Fremont, Elkhorn and Mis-
souri Valley Railway, decided to extend into
Wyoming for a coal supply. They had built
into Chadron in 1885, headed for the Black
Hills, northwest from Chadron. The laws
at that time did not permit a railway owner-
ship or construction by a Corporation not
organized in the Territory, so the Wyoniing
Central Railway was organized, in which I
was one of the directors. Also, the Shawnee
Coal Company was organized, which was
owned by some of the principal owners of
:he Chicago & Northwestern Railway. My
recollection is that the other directors, except-
ing myself, of the Shawnee Coal Company,
were the owners of about seventeen millions
out of the fifty millions which was then the
capital of the Chicago & Northwestern Road
I was Vice-President and General Manage:
of the Coal Company, which later proved tc
17
e an unsatisfactory investment and was
bandoned.
At the time of the incorporation of the
Vyoming Central Railway, Lusk was the
nly Post office on the projected line in the
"erritory and was named as the headquar-
2rs of the Railway.
I was also interested in town sites and af-
er the construction of the Wyoming Cen-
ral had been definitely determined upon, the
reality of the terminus was considered very
arefully. The Railway Company had not
btained a right-of-way across the Fort Fet-
;rman Reservation, so the site of the town
*as necessarily restricted to the most con-
enient point to the east of the Fetterman
Leservation. A good many people were in-
vested in watching every move that was
lade and it was necessary to exercise con-
iderable secrecy in connection with the lo-
ating of the town site. In January of 1887,
rode horseback from the ranch at Lusk and
)oked over the lay of the land. It was a
ide of about fifty miles and I had to stay
p in that country for a day or two. I un-
ertook to ride back from Fort Fetterman,
'here I was put up for the night, but was
o delayed that it was nearly dark by the
roe I got through at what is now Douglas.
picketed my horse, sat down in a little
ulch, under the only Cottonwood Tree
round there, built me a fire and camped
lere all night, riding back to Lusk the next
ay. There were no ranches at all, or places
i stop, between Fetterman and Lusk at that
me.
After the location of the town site where
)ouglas is now, had been determined upon,
-e discovered that certain speculators had
ut fictitious entries on some of the land that
was proposed to include in the town site,
'he town site was acquired by using Gov-
rnment script. This was easily done,
hen the people who were responsible for
lem were cornered and forced to admit that
le entries were fictitious. The Company
i>ld me that I might file on the adjoining
feds after the site had been selected and
led upon, so when everything was ready,
went into the land office at Cheyenne,
here E. W. Mann was the officer in charge,
nd presented the filing for the Townsite
pmpany, and immediately after it was re-
eived and registered, I filed a desert claim
ar myself on 560 acres, adjoining the town
| two sides. The bridge across the North
'latte River rests at each end upon the lands
pon which I filed. This land was almost
nmediately contested upon the ground of
eing coal land and I took Charles A. Guern-
ey into partnership with me in this land.
Ve spent a good deal of money in litigation,
ixes, expenses and improvements and I
nally was very glad to give my entire in-
srest in this property to the First National
tank of Douglas to get off of notes which
had endorsed to obtain money to make the
arious improvements on this land. I never
ot a dollar out of it and spent a good many
housands of dollars, in addition to what was
orrowed.
As Vice-President of the Shawnee Coal
'onipany, T made a great many trips to in-
vestigate alleged deposits of "Rock Springs
Coal." We spent a good deal of money try-
ing to prove and test various deposits and
learned to our cost and sorrow that there
is no "Rock Springs Coal" very far north
of the Union Pacific Railroad.
A little later, after the right-of-way across
the Fort Fetterman Reservation had been
granted, the Railway Company decided to
complete the line which had been graded
from the west side of the Fetterman Reser-
vation, quite a distance up the North Platte
River, in order to get the large stock ship-
ments. Here, again, the question of a suit-
able townsite became important. The site
which I favored was where Strouds now is,
but Mr. Hughitt said that as long as the
road was being built to get the cattle busi-
ness, he thought the terminus should be on
the north side of the river. He was the of-
ficial who decided all such matters. An in-
vestigation at the land office and on the
ground, showed that the only two quarter
sections in that country, to which there was
a title, were owned by the "C Y" Cattle
Company or J. M. Carey & Brother. They
were a little way from the river, but fairly
good, level land, so the Townsite Company
purchased these two quarter sections and
laid out the townsite of Casper. It was a
bleak place, but a good point from which to
ship cattle.
In the late '80-s after two disastrous win-
ters, my associates in the cattle business de-
cided we would move our cattle to a locality
where the winters were less severe and the
"she" cattle were gradually moved down to
New Mexico, the steers being shipped as they
got fat. I did not approve of the move and
having other interests, I remained in Wyo-
ming.
However, conditions were pretty difficult
to combat and through my railway friends,
I went into the railway contracting business,
going, of course, temporarily to whatever
place the railway construction was going on.
This took me in the East to Illinois, Indiana,
Iowa, Wisconsin and in the West into Col-
orado, Arizona', New Mexico, Utah, Califor-
nia, Nevada, South Dakota and Montana. I
continued, however, to keep a small interest
in cattle and ranches in Wyoming, but after
coming to Montana, in 1907, to do construc-
tion work on the Northern Pacific and Chi-
cago, Milwaukee & St. Paul lines and find-
ing climate and many other conditions favor-
able, during the three years I was at work-
on this construction, I decided to remain in
Montana permanently and purchased control
of the First National Bank, in Missoula,
Montana, it being the oldest National Bank-
in the state and one of the largest banks of
the State and was President of it for ten
years. I gradually disposed of most of my
interests in Wyoming, but still retained the
feeling that Wyoming, where I resided for
thirtv vears, was reallv mv home State.
February 4th, 1924.
REMINISCENCES OF
HARRIET ANN DURBIN
I was born in Preble County, Ohio, No-
vember 16, 1853. Middleton, Ohio, was my
18
home until I came to Cheyenne in 1871. In
the fall of 1871 my brother, E. P. Johnson,
who was then making his home in Cheyenne,
returned home on a visit, and as I had not
been in very good health he persuaded moth-
er and father to let me return to Cheyenne
with him, as he thought the change in cli-
mate would benefit me. We were delayed
a few days in starting our journey on ac-
count of the Chicago fire, but on the 19th
day of October, 1871, I landed in Cheyenne
in company with my brother, his wife, and
Mrs. Josiah Strong, who was the wife of the
first pastor of the Congregational Church.
We were met at the train by Mr. S. A.
Bristol and Rev. Strong. After leaving Chi-
cago, we ferried across the Missouri River
and then continued our journey on to Chey-
enne by train. The railroad fare from Cin-
cinnati to Cheyenne was about $80.00 at that
time.
At the time of our arrival in Cheyenne the
town was experiencing one of the usual de-
pressions, known to new towns in those days,
and my brother's wife said to him, "Shall I
unpack our trucks here?" and he replied that
"Cheyenne would always be a town, and we
would stay." I lived with my brother and
his wife in a little house on West 19th Street,
between Eddy and Thomes, during my first
year in Cheyenne. During that year I sang
as soprano in the Congregational choir, the
other members being I. C. Whipple, tenor,
Mrs. Josiah Strong, alto, and S. A. Bristol,
bass, with Minnie Slaughter, daughter of
Judge Slaughter, as organist.
The first school house in Cheyenne was
erected on the ground just south of the pres-
ent City and County Building, and Stephen
Scriber was the first teacher. When I came
to Cheyenne Miss Elizabeth Snow, (Mrs.
Hawes) and C. L. Morgan were teaching in
the little brick school house, but the east
four rooms of the present Central School
building were in the course of erection.
The post office was in a frame building on
the corner of 17th and what is now Carey
Ave., and the Masonic Lodge, held its meet-
ings in the room over the post office.
The first two story brick house was built
on the southeast corner of 16th and Ferguson
Sts., (now Carey Ave.,) and Posey S. Wilson
had a bank just east of that building. The
First National Bank was on the northeast
corner of 16th and Eddy Sts., (now Pioneer
Ave.). Adams and Glover built the building
now standing on the southeast corner of
Pioneer and 16th, and used it as a drug store.
Abe Underwood and A. G. McGregor built
the one story building on the northwest cor-
ner of 17th and Pioneer, and ran a bakery
and grocery there.
The houses built in the early days were
apparently erected any place, without regard
to streets, etc., and very few had any chim-
neys. It was thought that it was so windy
that chimneys would not stand, so most
people placed a piece of tin in the place of
one of their window panes, and put a stove
pipe through the window.
I was married on November 12, 1872, to.
Thomas F. Durbin, who had a meat market
in Cheyenne, and also had a contract to de-
liver meat to Ft. Russell. A few years later
he entered the cattle business.
We had four sons, but only one lived to
maturity. Edward graduated from the Chey-
enne High School in 1904, and in 1908 he
graduated from the Ohio Wesleyan College.
He is now making his home in Omaha.
We have lived in our present home on the
corner of 20th and Ferguson Sts., (now Carey
Ave.) for over forty years, having moved
here after residing for eight years in the
little home we bought on 19th and Thomes,
when we were married.
I consider Zane Gray's "Description of the
Building of the Union Pacific" very good,
and the early history of Cheyenne given
therein as quite accurate.
W. W. Corlett and E. P. Johnson, my
brother, came out from Yale, as young law-
yers, in 1867 as far as Omaha. From Omaha
they came on as far as Denver with a mili-
tary guard, and from there came up to Chey-
enne bv ox train. The first tent was pitched
in Cheyenne in July, 1867. Both Mr. Corlett
and my brother had to sleep in dug outs and
packing boxes when they first reached Chey-
enne, as there were no houses at that time.
Cheyenne began on the west side of Crow
Creek, but in a very short time the residences
were built on the bench on the east side of
the creek. The Dyer Hotel was one of the
first fine buildings. Eddy Street, now Pio-
neer Avenue, was the principal street in Chey-
enne in the early days.
The Indians made their last raid close to
Chevenne, in the vicinitv of the present Poor
Farm, in 1870.
General Fremont was at the head of the
military guard which went from Omaha to
Denver in 1867. The first tents were pitched
in Cheyenne on July 27, 1867.
When I first came to Cheyenne we used
j hanging oil lamps, but as Cheyenne was the
first city or town to have electric lights, it
wa« not long before the light plant was
established. Senator Warren, Mr. Roberts
and Mr. Church were among the organizers
of the light plant. Mr. Secrest was one of
the early employees of the light plant, and
had a verv good patent for some electrical
devices. He now has a very good business
handling lieht fixtures in Denver.
W. R. Stebbens and Mr. Post were the
firct bankers in Cheyenne.
Air. Stebbens took the stage and went into
Deadwood from Cheyenne about a week be-
fore I went to Deadwood. He announced
that within a few days there would be plenty
of currency there for the starting of the new
bank.
The first time I went marketing in Dead-
wood I took a bottle of gold dust, more like]
sand and pebbles, to pay for the things i!
should purchase. I bought a beef steak and1
then had to give the butcher my bottle of'
gold dust, and he would shake out and weigh1
enough of the gold dust to pay for my meat.
After Mr. Stebbens made the announce-]
ment that there would be plenty of currency
in Deadwood occurred the first stage rob-'
bery
On the morning that I was leaving on thel
stage for Deadwood with my baby, accom-^
19
lanied by Mr. Durbin's brother John, the
banker said to my brother-in-law, "John,
here is a little package that I would like to
have you take to Deadwood with you." That
day when we got to the first stage station
my brother-in-law gave me the money and
said that it would be safer with me than with
him. The money went out from the bank
of Stebbens and Post. Mr. Stebbens had
gone in to Deadwood about a week before
to make arrangements for the establishment
of the bank. I went to Deadwood in March,
1877.
The Post and Stebbens bank was on the
southeast corner of 17th and Ferguson Sts.,
now Carey Avenue.
The present windows in the Durbin porch
ire the original windows which were in the
Post and Stebbens Bank.
After one of the early fires B. L. Ford, a
:olored hotel porter, built the first Inter
Ocean Hotel on the corner of 17th and Hill
Sts., now Capitol Avenue.
The Dodge House was located on the pres-
ent site of the Sherman Building and was
•un by Mrs. Cairns.
Boughton's Lumber Yard was where the
Coliseum and Hose House is now.
I. W. French built a ware house on the
jr-esewt site of the Van Tassell coal office.
Thomas Franklin Durbin, my husband, was
)orn on March 20, 1847, in Aurora, Indiana,
rlis parents were John B. and Mary Jane
Bailey) Durbin.
He learned the printing trade when he was
mly a small boy, as his father and two broth-
ers were in the Civvil War, and he worked
I the printing office at $1.00 a week. He
ilways gave his mother ninety cents out of
lis weekly wage, but he also always kept
>ut ten cents as it was his rule never to spend
lis last cent. His clothes consisted in those
lays of jeans and muslin suspenders, and he
vent bare-footed except in winter.
He was educated in the schools of Aurora,
nd then he went into the printing office,
ie still has One of the poems written for the
arriers, or the printer's devils, as a New
fear's gift.
For a year he worked in a grocery and dry
;oods store, and then he came West in Aug-
st, 1869, making the trip directly to Chey-
nne as his brother John was then living
lere. He worked as a meat cutter for a
/hile and then he and his brother John
ought out the Amos Peacock meat market,
/hich was located on the corner of 17th and
rerguson Sts., now Carey Avenue. Soon
fter this he started to purchase cattle and
i 1872 he had the contract to deliver meat
t Fort Russell. In 1874 they sold the mar-
et to Henry Helpinstein and Richard B.
)urbin. After disposing of the market they
rave their entire time to cattle raising and
he sheep business, and it was in the blizzard
f that winter that George Durbin had his
set frozen. They had their first cattle out
y the city water works. Then they estab-
fehed the J. H. D. Ranch out on Horse
'reek, and afterwards they had the V. B.
tanch on Bear Creek.
In 1903 Thomas Durbin was clerk for the
>oard of Live Stock Commissioners, and
later he was appointed Secretary of the Board
which position he held for twelve years. He
retired at the end of that time.
I am of the seventh generation of the de-
scendants of John Alden and Priscilla, his
wife, my parents being Thomas Skeils John-
son and Ann Parker Ewer.
Dictated by Mrs. Durbin, October 30,
1920.
THE STORY OF A PIONEER
About the year 1850 there lived in a rural
community, of north-eastern Texas a family
named Armstrong. They were well to do,
as farmers, enterprising and industrious. The
fabulous tales of the golden West, of Califor-
nia and Oregon reached this quiet settlement,
and at once the spirit of emigration prevailed
over the wiser counsels of the older people,
and yet even some of these were caught in
the general excitement, while others too feeble
to undertake the long journey watched the
long train of wagons depart, with regret, that
they were denied the privilege. Of the Arm-
strong family were father, mother, several
boys and girls, of whom the oldest was Ma-
linda Jane, a bright pretty girl of seventeen.
What a joy she was helping with the packing
of clothes and necessaries that were allowed
to each wagon. She was the one on whom
the mother depended. The wagon train of
seven or eight teams with men on horse,
a cow or two tethered to the wagon, passed
safely over the Texas range and somewhere
struck what was later called "The Cherokee
Trail." It was the Jones route of 1850, leav-
ing the North Platte River, crossing the des-
ert and coming down to the Green River
crossing below the outlet of Currant Creek.
From the crossing they turned northward
reaching old Fort Bridger, on Black's Fork,
continued up the Bear River, stopped and
drank at the Bear Springs, and on to old
"Fort Hall" on the Snake River. Here they
found many wagon trains and had company.
At Fort Hall the trail to California and that
of Oregon separated and our Texas friends
turned to the Californias. The land of their
dreams did not fulfill the expectations and
after but one year's residence the party de-
cided to return to Texas. They followed the
old trail. John Stallcup drove a team of two
wagons. One horse died and the}' put three
horses for one wagon. It was called a spike.
This was a hard journey, so hot and dusty,
and the Indians were a constant fear.
Miles of rough way over the sage brush,
fording streams, camping cold nights on the
desert, without a fire to cook a scanty meal.
Scarcely daring to wander far from camp,
altho, deer, elk and buffalo were roaming
the hills. At Fort Bridger, Malinda Jane was
taken ill of a fever. There was little at the
Fort and they traveled on to the Green River
crossing, then up the Jones route to the
Hogback between Currant Creek and Sage.
After crossing Spring Creek they reached
the brow of the hill that looks down on Trout
Gulch, and turned out to encamp, at a shady
spot not far from water. Here Malinda died
and was laid by her loving friends in a lonely
grave. John Stallcup of Sherman City, Texas,
kept the record, helped to carve her name
on the stone slab, that has been replaced by
another, the first having been nearly obliter-
ated by time. The initials, or name, was also
carved on a tree, at the head of the grave.
The present stone is exactlv the copy of the
first.
1834-1852
IN MEMORY
of
MALINDA J. ARMSTRONG
Died Aug. 15, 1852
The old tree has fallen, but Mr. Robert
Ramsey, Jr., and brothers, have preserved
the grave and recut the stone. As of old the
sagebrush and the cedar cover the mountain-
side, and the clear water of Trout Gulch
flows down to the >Sage, Bluebelle and rose,
and primrose, and lily love the spot, and
little merry birds twitter among the branches.
To Mr. 'John ,Stallcup of Sherman City,
and his niece, Mrs. Bettie Fink, and Mrs.
William Bates, we are indebted for this rec-
ord. Mr. Stallcup has been dead many years.
When he knew that his niece was coming to
Wyoming, he told her the circumstances, and
directed her to the spot. The family on
Trout Gulch knew where it was.
The wagon train remained three days on
the gulch. The mother was broken hearted.
Received from
Mary A. Pater son, 1920.
Rock Springs, Wyoming.
The Shoshoni Indian name for lynx and
wildcats is Too-coo-bintse, and when a hunter
succeeded in killing or trapping one of them
he was greeted with a great deal of applause.
A wildcat robe is a great ornament and is
worn by the Indians when in full dress. The
fur reaches down the leg of the lynx and be-
tween the toes, thus enabling the animal to
readily withstand the vigorous winter wea-
ther, and to roam about during storms, when
other animals and birds are seeking shelter
under trees and bushes where he can kill
and drink the blood. The lynx cares little
lor the flesh after he sucks the blood of the
animal. — Colonel A. J. Brackett, U. S. A.
Thomas J. Montgomery, born September
20th, 1850, at Brighton, Illinois, crossed the
plains with WTilliam H. Loveland of Golden,
Colorado, in the spring of 1866, and clerked
in a store belonging to Loveland. There was
a telegraph office in the store and young
Montgomery learned the business of an oper-
ator. In the spring of '67 he went to Fort
Sedgwick to work for the Government, as
an operator; then went to Mud Springs and
took charge of the office, remaining until the
office was abandoned and the line changed to
Cheyenne and Fort Laramie. He then went
to work under Superintendent Cuak for the
Union Pacific, in the capacity of conductor
and line supervisor. That fall the Company
put in an office at Cheyennec, on the day
that the first train arrived. There had been
a temporary office for the construction de-
partment, and after about thirty days an of-
fice was put in at Granite Canyon — the Col-
orado Junction office was put in fifteen days
before — from this they followed the line of
construction and put in all the offices as fast
as the road went into operation. Cyrus Wrar-|
ren was the first yard master; Willis the first'
division superintendent from Cheyenne, easts
Toney Sanford, the first train dispatcher and|
circuit manager; Montgomery was the firstjj
operator, and Mike Owens was the police-
man at the depot in Cheyenne. Richard Par-
cell was the first section foreman and laid
the first ties and tracks around the round-
house and depot. The first road master was
Gus Egbert, afterwards Division Superin-
tendent of the Colorado branch of the Union
Pacific Road.
John C. Davis, born March 14th, 1851, at
Tipperary, Ireland, and educated in the south
of England, came to the United States in
June, 1870, and located in northwestern Kan-
sas, remaining there until March, 1870, when
he located permanently in W'yoming Terri-I
tory. He worked in various places along the;
Union Pacific Railroad, from Green River td
Laramie. He was. night telegraph operator
and continued in this until January, '76, when
he took a six months' lay-off and went on a
visit to Ireland. He returned to Fort Steele
in August, '76,- and became night operator
there.
In the fall of '77 he went to work for Trab-
ing Brothers at Medicine Bow, taking charge
of the store, and remained until December
31st, 1878. He then became junior member
of the firm of Hayes & Company, post trad-
ers at Fort Steele. Major Thornburg was in
command at the Post. In September, 1879,
Davis went with Thornburg and was pres-
ent at the Milk Creek fight. He was wound-
ed on the first day of the fight, the bones inj
his left foot were broken. He returned toj
Fort Steele, remained in the government hos-
pital three months, and went back into the
store. In August, 1880, he formed a part4
nership with Mr. Hayes, bought out Trabing
Brothers there, and the store and government
freighting business at Medicine Bow and
Rawlins, and became a resident of Carbon
County, moving the goods from Medicine
Bow to Rawlins. He put in the first West-
ern Union office at Medicine Bow in the
store, and also in Rawlins. The J. W. Hayes
& Company bank was organized, and in 1890
was consolidated into the First National
Bank of Rawlins, with Davis as cashier. He
established a store at Meeker, Colorado, in
1886, and organized a bank in August, 1890;
located a store at Craig, Colorado, and es-
tablished a bank there in 1892. He estab-
lished a store at Rifle, Colorado, and organ-
ized a bank at that place July 1st, 1899. Hqji
established a store at Four Miles in March,
'91, one in Hayden in '96; organized the<
bank at Steamboat Springs, January 1st,:
1899, and organized a store at Dixon, Wyo-
ming, in May. 1899. He was elected Mayor
of Rawlins, 18... ; elected County Com-
missioner in the fall of '89 and elected a dele-
gate to the Republican National Convention
of 1886, held at St. Louis. He was married
January 9th, 1883, to Ella Mary Castiday,
the eldest daughter of David R. Castiday,
and by this union there were five children,
three boys and two girls. One of the boys
died in infancv. — Coutant Notes. ;
~Y~ls^Y~d
HISTORICAL DEPARTMENT
QUARTERLY BULLETIN
3l. 1
Cheyenne, January 15, 1924
No. 3
[OGRAPHICAL SKETCH
OF JAMES BRIDGER
r MAJ. GEN. GRENVILLE M. DODGE
At this late day it is a very difficult under-
ling to attempt to write a connected his-
ry of a man who spent a long life on the
ains and in the mountains, performing
eds and rendering services of inestimable
lue to this country, but who, withal, was
modest that he has not bequeathed to his
scendants one written word concerning the
rring events which filled his active and
eful life.
It is both a duty and pleasure to make
blk^s'uch information as I possess and
ve been able to gather concerning James
idger, and it is eminently proper and ap-
Dpriate that this information should be pub-
hed at the time when his remains are re-
ived to the beautiful spot where they will
"ever rest, and a simple monument erected
it posterity may know something of the
narkable man whose body lies beside it.
James Bridger was born in Richmond,
rginia, March 17, 1804. He was the son of
mes and Schloe Bridger. The father at
e time kept a hotel in Richmond, and also
d a large farm in Virginia. In 1812 he
ligranted to St. Louis and settled on Six
le Prairie. He was a surveyor, working
St. Louis and Illinois. His business kept
n continually from home, and when his
fe died in 1816 he was away from home
the time, and three little children were left
me. One, a son, soon died, the second — a
lighter, and the third the subject of this
itch. The father had a sister who took
arge of the children and farm. In the fall
1817 the father died leaving the two chil-
:n entirely alone with their aunt on the
m. They were of Scotch descent. Their
:her's sister married John Tyler, who was
erwards President of the United States,
d was, therefore, uncle by marriage to
nes Bridger.
\fter the death of his father and mother
idger had to support himself and sister.
t got money enough together to buy a
tboat ferry, and when ten years of age
i.de a living by running that ferry at St,
nis. When he was thirteen years old he
s apprenticed to Phil Cromer to learn the
icksmith's trade. Becoming tired of this,
1822 he hired out to a party of trappers
der General Ashley, who were enroute to
i mountains. As a boy he was shrewd,
d keen faculties of observation, and said
when he went with the trappers that the
money he earned would go to his sister.
The Rocky Mountain Fur Company was
organized by General W. H. Ashley in 1822,
and commanded by Andrew Henry. It left
St. Louis in April, 1822, and it was with this
party that Bridger enlisted.
Andrew Henry moved to the mouth of the
Yellowstone, going by the Missouri River.
They lost one of their boats which was load-
ed with goods worth $10,000 a.id while his
land force was moving up parallel with his
boats the Indians, under the guise of friend-
ship, obtained his horses. This forced him
to halt and build a fort for the winter at the
mouth of the Yellowstone, and they trapped
and explored in this locality until the spring
of 1823.
Ashley, having returned to St. Louis in
the fall of 1822, arrived with his second ex-
pedition in front of the Aricara villages on
May 10, 1823, where he was defeated in bat-
tle by the Indians, losing one-half his men,
his horses and baggage. He then sent o
courier across country to Henry, who went
down the Missouri River with his force, and
joined Ashley near the mouth of the Chey-
enne. The United States forces under Gen-
eral Atkinson were then coming up the Mis-
souri Valley to quell the Indian troubles and
Ashley and Henry expected to remain and
meet them, and their party joined this force
under Colonel Leavenworth.
After this campaign was over, Henry, with
eighty men including Bridger, moved in Aug-
ust, 1823, to his fort at the mouth of the
Yellowstone, and in crossing the country lost
two men in a fight with the Indians. He ar-
rived at the fort August 23, 1823, and found
that 22 of his horses had been stolen by the
Indians, he abandoned the fort, and moved
by the Yellowstone to near the mouth of the
Powder River. Meeting a band of Crows,
he purchased 47 horses. He then divided his
party, and in the autumn of 1823 despatched
the new party under Etinenne Prevost, a
noted trapper and trader. They moved by
the Big Horn and Wind Rivers to Green
River. With this party was Bridger, and no
doubt it was this party that late in the fall
of 1823 discovered the South Pass. The
South Pass is the southern end of the Wind
River Mountains and all the country there
gives down into a level valley until the
Medicine Bow Range is reached, some one
hundred and fifty miles southeast. It forms
a natural depression through the continent,
and it is through this depression that the
Union Pacific Railroad was built. In those
days the pass was known to the trappers in
{. Copyright applied for. State Historian may grant
reasonable copying privileges)
QUARTERLY BULLETIN
Edited by Mrs. Cyrus Beard
State Historical Board
Governor — William B. Ross
Secretary of State — F. E. Lucas
State Librarian — Flo La Chapelle
Advisory Board
Rt. Rev. P. A. McGovern, Cheyenne
Dr. Grace R. Hebard, Laramie
Mr. P. W. Jenkins, Cora
Mrs. Willis M. Spear, Sheridan
Mr. R. D. Hawley, Douglas
Miss Margery Ross, Cody
Mrs. E. T. Raymond, Newcastle
Mr. E. H. Fourt, Lander
State Historian — Mrs. Cyrus Beard
Secretary of the Board
Contents
Biographical Sketch of James Bridger
.Maj. Gen'l Grenville M. Dodge
Girlhood Recollections of Laramie in 1870
and 1871 Nancy Fillmore Brown
In Retrospect ..Annie K. Parshall
Letter J. B. Gillett
Letter ...E. A. Brininstool
Letter (Coutant) Ernest Pope
Expense Account Fort Fetterman, 1875
Survey 1923.
Necrology.
the Wind River Valley as the southern route.
This depression is a basin smaller than Salt
Lake, but has no water in it. It is known
as the Red Desert, and extends about one
hundred miles east and west, and sixty or
seventy miles north and south. The east
and west rims of this basin make two divides
of the continent.
This party trapped on Wind, Green and
other rivers, and in 1823 to 1824 wintered
in Cache Valley on Bear River. So far as
we have any proof, Bridger was the first
man positively known to see Salt Lake. It
is claimed that a Spanish missionary, Friar
Escalante, of Santa Fe, visited the lake in
1776. To settle a wager as to the course of
Bear River, Bridger followed the stream to
Great Salt Lake and found the wrater salt.
He returned to his party and reported what
he had learned, and they concluded it was
an arm of the Pacific Ocean. In the spring
of 1825 four men in skin boats explored the
short line, and found it had no outlet.
Andrew Henry was in charge of the Rocky
Mountain Fur Company until the fall of
1824, when Jedediah S. Smith took the place,
and remained Ashley's partner until 1826
Ashley sold the Rocky Mountain Fur Com-
pany to Smith, Jackson and Sublette in July.
1826. Bridger trapped in the interest of these
men until 1829, Christopher Carson being
with him this year. The winter 1829-30
Bridger spent on Powder River with Sm'th
and Jackson, and in April, 1830, went with
Smith by the way of the Yellowstone to the
Upper Missouri and to the Judith Basin, and
then to the yearly rendezvous on Wind River,
near the mouth of the Popo Agie.
1?30
Sublette left St. Louis April 10, l&^u, with
eighty-one men and ten wagons, with five
mules to each wagon and these were the firsti
wagons to be used over what was known as)
"he Oregon Trail. They reached the Wind!
River rendezvous on July 16th.
On August 4, 1830, Smith, Jackson and
Sublette sold out the company to Milton G
Sublette, Henry Frack, John B. Gervais and
James . Bridger. The new firm was called
"he Rocky Mountain Fur Company, and un-
der these people was the only time the com
pany operated under its own name. The
trappers divided and occupied different sec-:
tions of the country. Bridger, with Fitzpat
rick and Sublette, took two hundred men,
went into the Big Horn Basin, crossed the
Yellowstone, then north to the great falls
of the Missouri, ascended the Missouri tc
Three Forks, went by the Jefferson to the
divide, then south several hundred miles tc
Salt Lake, here they obtained the furs col
lected by Peter Skeen Ogden, of the Hudson
Bay Company. They then covered the coun
try to the eastward, and reached the vallev
of Powder River by the first of winter, travel-
ing in all about 1,200 miles. Here they spenl
the winter. It is probable that during this
trip Bridger first saw Yellowstone Lake anc
Geysers, and he was probably the first fui
trader to make known the wonders of Yel
lowstone Park. He talked to me a greai
deal about it in the fifties, and his descriptior
of it was of such a nature that it was con-
sidered to be a great exaggeration, but the
development of the park in later years show.'
that he did not exaggerate its beauties and
wonders. Bridger was evidently well ac-i
quainted with its wonderful features. Cap-i
tain Chittenden, in his "The Yellowstone Na-
tional Park," quotes from Gunnison's "His-
tory of the Mormons," giving Bridger's de<
scription of the park as follows: "A lake
sixty miles long, cold and pelucid, lies em>J
bosomed among big precipitous mountains™
On the west side is a sloping plain, severak
miles wide, with clumps of trees and grove: j,
of pines. The ground resounds with th<||,.
tread of horses. Geysers spout seventy fee'jr
high, with a terrific, hissing noise, at regulam
intervals. Water falls are sparkling, leaping
and thundering down the precipices, and col
lect in the pools below. The river issued fron
this lake, and for fifteen miles roars througl
the perpendicular canyon at the outlet, in thi;
section- are the "Great Springs," so hot tha w
meat is readily cooked in them, and, as the] r
descend on the successive terraces, afford a1"
length delightful baths. On the other _ sjd F
is an acid spring, which supplies vermillioi °
for the savages in abundance. In this adf
mirable summary we readily discover th
Yellowstone Lake, the "Grand Canyon, th'
falls, the geyser basins, the mammoth spring,
and Cinnebar Mountains."
Bridger talked about the Yellowstone Lak^ia
and its surroundings to every one he meljcn<
and it was not his fault that the country wafer
not explored and better known until in thjAn
sixties. A small lake near the headwaterly
of the Yellowstone has been named Bridgetfioi
Lake.
■fei
In the spring of 1831 Bridger and Sublette
itarted for the Blackfoot country, where they
net a band of the Crows who stole all their
lorses. Bridger led a party of his men in
jursuit and recaptured all these horses as
veil as taking all the ponies of the Crows,
fitzpatrick had gone to St. Louis to bring
>ut the winter supplies. Bridger and Sub-
ette followed nearly their previous year's
oute in their hunting, and in the fall reached
he rendezvous on Green River, where they
net Gervais and Frack, who were at the
lead of another party of the Rocky Moun-
ain Fur Company.
After leaving St. Louis Fitzpatrick came
mt with his supplies by the way of Santa
?e, and was so long in reaching the rendez-
'ous on Green River that Sublette returned
o the Powder River to winter, and here they
irst met the competition of the American
rur Company, which finally drove the Rocky
fountain Fur Company out of business.
Titzpatrick and Frack joined Bridger here
in Powder River, but becoming disgusted
nth the movements of the American Fur
^ompany under Vandenburg and Dripps,
fitzpatrick and Bridger with their entire out-
it moved west some four hundred miles to
Dierre's Hole, near the forks of the Snake
Irverf, in the spring of 1832 they moved up
make to Salt, up that stream and across to
ohn Day River, up that river to its head,
nd across to Bear River in the Great Salt
^ake Basin. Here they again met the Amer-
:an Fur Company, with Vandenburg and
)ripps. They struck off into a different
ountry, and finally rendezvoused again at
'ierre's Hole waiting for the supplies from
he states being brought out by William L,.
lublette. At their rendezvous concentrated
his summer the" Rocky Mountain Fur Corn-
any, the American Fur Company, under
Vandenburg and Dripps; Arthur J. Wyeth
/ith a new party coming mostly from the
■Jew England States, a large number of free
raders and trappers and numerous bands of
ndians, and here occurred the celebrated
attle of Pierre's Hole, with the Gros Ventre
ndians, which was one of the hardest bat-
les fought in an early day on the plains,
he losses being very. heavy.
The battle of Pierre's Hole, or the Teton
Jasin, was fought July 13, 1832. Of the dif-
srent fur companies and free traders there
/ere present some three hundred men and
everal hundred Indians of the Nez Perces
nd Flathead tribes. The Gros Ventres, about
ne hundred and fifty strong, always hostile
o the whites, were returning from a visit
p their kindred, the Arapahoes. They car-
ied a British flag captured from Hudson
Jay Company trappers.
When the Indians saw the band of trap-
pers, who were some eight miles from the
lain rendezvous at Pierre's Hole, the In-
ians made signs of peace, but they were
nown to be so treacherous that no confi-
ence was placed in their signs. However,
^.ntoine Godin, whose father had been killed
y this tribe, and a Flathead chief, whose na-
ion had suffered untold wrongs from them,
dyanced to meet them. The Gros Ventres'
hief came forward, and when Godin grasped
his hand in friendship the Flathead shot him
dead. The Gros Ventres immediately re-
tired to a grove of timber, and commenced
piling up logs and intrenching. The trappers
sent word to the rendezvous, and when Sub-
lette and Campbell brought reinforcements
the battle opened, the trappers charging the
Indians, and finally tried to burn them out,
but did not succeed. The Gros Ventres,
through their interpreter, made the trappers
believe that a large portion of their tribe,
some 800, were attacking the rendezvous.
Upon learning this the trappers immediately
left for its defense and found the story was
a lie, but by this ruse the Indians were able
to escape. The whites lost five killed and six
wounded. The loss of the Gros Ventres was
never fully known. They left nine killed,
with twenty-five horses and all their baggage,
and admitted a loss of twenty-six warriors.
The Indians escaped during the night and
affected a junction with their tribe.
In 1832 the American Fur Company, oper-
ated by Vandenburg and Dripps, came into
the territory of the Rocky Mountain Fur
Company, which was under Fitzpatrick and
Bridger, and undertook to follow their
parties, knowing that their trapping grounds
yielded a great many furs. They followed
them to the headwaters of the Missouri and
down the Jefferson. Fitzpatrick and Bridger
thought they would get rid of them by going
right into the Blackfoot nation, which was
very hostile. Finally Vandenburg and Dripps
located on the Madison Fork on October 14,
1832, and near this place the Blackfeet killed
Vandenburg and two of his men and drove
his party out. The Blackfeet also attacked
Bridger and his party, and in his "American
Fur Traders" Chittenden gives this account
of the wounding of Bridger:
"One day they saw a body of Blackfeet
in the open plain, though near some rocks
which could be resorted to in case of need
They made pacific overtures, which were
reciprocated by -the whites. A few men ad-
vanced from each party, a circle was formed
and the pipe of peace was smoked. It is re-
lated by Irwing that while the ceremony was
going on a young Mexican named Loretto,
a free trapper accompanying Bridger's band,
who had previously ransomed from th*1
Crows, a beautiful Blackfoot girl, and made
her his wife, was then present looking on.
The girl recognized her brother among the
Indians. Instantly leaving her infant with
the Lorettos she rushed into her brother's
arms, and was recognized with the greatest
warmth and affection.
"Bridger now rode forward to where the
peace ceremonies were enacting. His rifle
lay across his saddle. The Blackfoot chief
came forward to meet him. Through some
apparent distrust Bridger cocked his rifle as
if about to fire. The chief seized the barrel
and pushed it downward so that its contents
were discharged into the ground. This pre-
cipitated a melee, Bridger received two arrow
shots in the back, and the chief felled him
to the earth with a blow from the gun,
which he had wrenched from Bridger's hand.
The chief then leaped into Bridger's saddle,
and the whole party made for the cover of
the rocks, where a desultory fire was kept
up for some time. The Indian girl had been
carried along with her people, and in spite
of her pitiful entreaties was not allowed to
return. Loretto, witnessing her grief, seized
the child and ran to her, greatly to the
amazement of the Indians. He was cau-
tioned to depart if he wanted to save his life,
and at his wife's earnest insistence he did so.
Sometime afterwards he closed his account
with the Rocky Mountain Fur Company and
rejoined his wife among her own people. It
is said that he was later employed as an in-
terpreter at the fort below the falls of the
Missouri.
"One of the arrow heads which Bridger re-
ceived in his back on this occasion remained
there for nearly three vears, or until the mid-
dle of August, 1835. At that time Dr. Mar-
cus 'Whitman was at the rendezvous on Green
River enroute to Oregon. Bridger was also
there, and Dr. Whitman extracted the arrow
from his back. The operation was a difficult
one, because the arrow was hooked at the
point by striking a large bone, and a carti-
laginous substance had grown around it. The
Doctor pursued the operation with great self
possession and perserverance, and his patient
manifested equal firmness. The Indians
looked on meantime with countenances in-
dicating wonder, and in their own peculiar
manner expressed great astonishment when
it was extracted. The arrow was of iron and
about three inches long."
In the early thirities Bridger discovered
the "Two Oceans Pass," the most remark-
able pass, probably, in the world. It is 8,150
feet above the level of the sea. Its length
about -one mile, and width nearly the same.
From the north a stream comes from the
canyon and divides in the pass, part follow-
ing to the Atlantic waters by the Yellow-
stone and part to the Pacific by the Snake
River, the two minor streams bearing the
names of Atlantic and Pacific Creeks. A
stream also comes from the south and makes
the same divergence. Fish by these streams
pass from one water to the other. Bridger
used to tell the story of this river and fish
passing through it, but no one believed it
until in later years it was discovered to be
true, and it is now one of the curiosities of
"5 ellowstone Park.
The first great highwav across the plains
was no doubt developed by Bridger, and his
trappers and traders, in their travels, as the
most feasible route to obtain wood, water
and grass. Its avoidance of mountains and
difficult streams to cross was soon made pat-
ent to them. It was known in an early day
as the Overland Trail, and later on as the
Oregon Trail. It was established by the nat-
ural formation of the country. It was first
used by the wild animals, who followed the
present trail very closely in their wanderings,
especially the buffalo. Next came the In-
dians' feasible method of crossing from the
Missouri River to the mountains. Following
them came the trappers and hunters, then
their supply trains, first by pack and later by
wagon. The first wheeled vehicle known to
have passed over the trail was a six pound
cannon taken out bv General Ashlev to his
posts in Utah in the summer of 1826, and
the first carts to pass over it were those
taken out by the route the name of the Ore-
gon Trail. Next came the Mormons, and
following them the great immigration to
California from 1849 on.
In his "American Fur Trade" Captain
Chittenden gives this description of the Over-
land Trail:
"As a highway of travel the Oregon Trail
is the most remarkable known to history.
Considering that it originated with the spon-
taneous use of travelers; that no transit ever
located a foot of it; that no level established
its grades; that no engineer sought out the
fords or built any bridges, or surveyed the
mountain passes; that there was no grading
to speak of, nor any attempt at metalling the
roadbed, and the general good quality of this
two thousand miles of highway will seem
most extraordinary. Father DeSmet, who
was born in Belgium, the home of good
roads, pronounced the Oregon Trail one of
the finest highways in the world. At the
proper season of the year this was undoubt-
edly true. Before the prairies became too
dry, the natural turf formed the best roadway
for horses to travel on that has probably ever
been known. It was amply hard to sustain
traffic, yet soft enough to be easier to the
feet even than the most perfect asphalt pave-
ment. Over such road, winding ribbonlike
through the verdant prairie amid the pro-
fusion of spring flowers with grass so plenti-
ful that the animal reveled on its abundance,
and game everywhere greeted the hunter's
rifle, and, finally, with pure water in the
streams the traveler sped his way with a feel-
ing of joy and exhiliration. But not so when
the prairies became dry and parched, the
road filled with stifling dust,* the stream beds
dry ravines, or carrying only akaline waters
which could not be used, the game all gone
to more hospitable sections, and the summer
sun pouring down its heat with torrid inten-
sity. It was then that the trail became a
highway of desolation, strewn with aban-
doned property, the skeletons of horses,
mules, and oxen, and, alas! too often, with
freshly made mounds and headboards that
told the pitiful tale of sufferings too great tc
be endured. If the trail was the scene of ro-
mance, adventure, pleasure and excitement
so it was marked in every mile of its course
by human misery, tragedy and death.
The immense travel which in later yean
passed over the trail carved it into a deer
furrow, often with several wide paralle
tracks, making a total width of a hundrec
feet or more. It was an astonishing spec
tacle even to white men when seen for tht
first time. Captain Raynolds, of the Corp:
of Engineers, United States Army, tells ;
good story on himself, in this connection
In the fall of 1859 he came south from tb
Yellowstone River aong the eastern base c
the Big Horn Mountains and struck the trai
somewhere above the first ford of the Nortl
Platte. Before reaching it he innocent!
asked his guide, Bridger, if there was an;!
danger of their crossing the trail "withou
seeing it." Bridger answered him only wit !
a look of contemptuous amazement.
It may be easily imagined how great an
impression the sight of this road must have
made upon the minds of the Indians.
Father DeSmet has recorded some inter-
esting observations upon this point. In 1851
he traveled in company with a large number
af Indians from the Missouri and Yellow-
stone Rivers to Fort Laramie, where a great
council was held in that year to form treaties
with the several tribes. Most of these In-
dians had not been in that section before,
md were quite unprepared for what they
saw. "Onr Indian companions," says Fa-
ther DeSmet, "who had never seen but the
narrow hunting paths by which they trans-,
port themselves and their lodges, were filled
with admiration on seeing this noble high-
way, which is as smooth as a bare floor
swept by the winds, and not a a blade of
grass can shoot up on it on account of the
continual passing. They conceived a high idea
jf the "Countless White Nation," as they ex-
press it. They fancied that all had gone
aver the road, and that an immense void must
;xist in the land of the rising sun. Their
xmntenances testified evident incredulity
when I told them that their exit was in no
vise perceived in the land of the whites. They
styled the route the "Great Medicine Road of
:he^ Whites." From 1833 to 1840 Bridger
:ondticted trapping parties in the interest of
:he American Fur Company through the
:ountry west of the Big Horn River, reachi-
ng to the Snake, and had many fights with
ind hairbreadth escapes from hostile In-
dians.
In 1840 he was associated with Benito
Vasquez in charge of an extensive outfit,
which they conducted, in person until 1843,
vhen Bridger and Vasques built Fort
Bridger, which seems to have terminated
Bridger's individual trapping, and his ex-
)erience as the head of trapping outfits.
In 1842 the Cheyennes and other Indians
ittacked the Shoshones near the site of
3ridger's fort and got away with the stock.
Bridger at the head of the trappers and
Snakes followed them, killing many of the
Indians, and recapturing part of the stock,
riowever, the Indians got away with several
)f the horses. On July 8th, Mr. Preuss, of
Fremont's expidition, met Bridger's party on
he North Platte near the mouth of the Medi-
:ine Bow. Writing of this meeting, he says:
"July 8th, our road today was a solitary
me. No game made its appearance — not
;ven a buffalo or stray antelope; and nothing
>ccurred to break the monotony until about
5 o'clock, when the caravan made a sudden
lalt. There was a galloping in of scout and
lorsemen from every side — a hurrying to and
ro in noisy confusion; rifles were taken
rom their cover; bullet-pouches examined;
n short, there was a cry of "Indians" here
igain. I had become so accustomed to these
darms that now they made but little impres-
sion on me; and before I had time to be-
:ome excited the newcomers were ascer-
ained to be whites. It was a large party of
raders and trappers, conducted by Mr.
Bridger, a man well known in the history
>f the country. As the sun was low, and
:here was a fine grass patch not far ahead
they turned back and encamped for the night
with us.
"Mr. Bridger was invited to supper, and,
after the table-cloth was removed, we listened
with eager interest to an account of their ad-
ventures. What they had met we would be
likely to encounter; the chances which had
befallen them would likely happen to us;
and we looked upon their life as a picture
of our own. He informed us that the con-
dition of the country had become exceed-
ingly dangerous. The Sioux, who had been
badly disposed had broken out into open hos-
tility, and in the preceding autumn his party
had encountered them in a severe engage-
ment, in which a number of lives had been
lost on both sides. United with the Chey-
enne and Gros Ventre Indians, they were
scouring the upper country in war parties
of great force, and were at this time in the
neighborhood of the Red Buttes, a famous
landmark, which was directly on our path.
They had declared war upon every living
thing which should be found westward of the
point; though their main object was to at-
tack a large camp of whites and Snake In-
dians who had a rendezvous in the Sweet-
water Valley. Availing himself of his inti-
mate knowledge of the country, he had
reached Laramie by an unusual route through
the Black Hills and avoided coming in con-
tact with any of the scattered parties.
"This gentleman offered his services to ac-
company us as far as the head of the Sweet-
water, but in the absence of our leader, which
was deeply regretted by us all, it was impos-
sible for us to enter upon such an arrange-
ment."
Fort Bridger, located in latitude 41 de-
grees 18 minutes 12 seconds and longitude
110 degrees 18 minutes 38 seconds, is 1,070
miles west of the Missouri River by wagon
road, and 886 miles by railroad. Bridger
selected this spot on account of its being on
the overland emigrant and Mormon trail,
whether by the North or South Platte
routes, as both came together at or near
Bridger.
The land on which Fort Bridger is located
was obtained by Bridger from the Mexican
Government before any of the country was
ceded by Mexico to the United States. He
lived there in undisputed possession until he
leased the property in 1857 to the United
States by formal written lease signed by Al-
bert Sidney Johnston's quartermaster. The
rental value was $600 per year, which was
never paid by the Government. After thirty
years the Governmet finally paid Bridger
$6,000.00 for the improvements on the land
but nothing for the land. A bill is now
pending in Congress to pay his estate for the
value of the land. The improvements on the
land, were worth a great deal more money,
but after the Government took possession
it seemed to have virtually ignored the rights
of Bridger.
The fort occupied a space of perhaps two
acres, surrounded by a stockade. Timbers
were set in the ground and elevated eight or
ten feet above the surface. Inside this stock-
ade Bridger had his residence on one side,
and his trading post in the corner directly
across from it. It had swinging gates in the
center of the front, through which teams
and cattle could he driven safe from Indians
and renegade white thieves. He owned a
large number of cattle, horses and mules, and
his place was so situated that he enjoyed a
large trade with the Mormons, gold hunters,
mountaineers, and Indians.
In a letter Bridger wrote to Pierre Chotau,
of St. Louis, on December 10, 1843, he says:
"I have established a small fort, with black-
smith shop and a supply of iron in the road
of the immigrants on Black Fork of Green
River, which promises fairly. In coming out
here they are generally well supplied with
money, but by the time they get here they
are in need of all kinds of supplies, horses,
provisions, smith-work, etc. They bring
ready cash from the States, and should I re-
ceive the goods ordered will have consider-
able business in that way with them, and
establish trade with the Indians in the
neighborhood, who have a good number of
beaver among them. The fort is a beautiful
location in the Black Fork of Green River,
receiving fine, fresh water from the snow on
the Uinta range. The streams are alive with
mountain trout. It passes through the fort
in several channels, each lined with trees,
kept alive by the moisture of the soil."
It was a veritable oasis in the desert, and
its selection showed good judgment on the
part of the founder.
Jjl_LS65 Bridger had trouble with the Mor
mons. They threatened him with death and
the confiscation of all his property at Fort
Bridger, and he was robbed of all his stock,
merchandise, and in fact, of everything he
possessed, which he claimed was worth $100,-
000. The buildings at the fort were destroyed
by fire, and Bridger barely escaped with his
life. This brought on what was known as the
Utah Expedition under Albert Sidney John-
ston. Bridger piloted the army out there,
taking it through by what is known as the
Southern Route, which he had discovered,
which runs by the South Platte, up the Lodge
Pole, over Cheyenne Pass, by the old Fort
Halleck, and across the continental divide at
Bridger's Pass at the head of the Muddy, fol-
lows down Bitter Creek to Green River,
crosses that river, and then up Black Fork-
to Fort Bridger.
As the troops had made no arrangements
for winter, and shelter for the stock was not
to be found in the vicinity, of Salt Lake,
Bridger tendered to them the use of Fort
Bridger and the adjoining property, which
offer was accepted by Johnston, who win-
tered his army there. It was at this time
that the Government purchased from Bridger
his Mexican grant of Fort Brdiger but, as
heretofore mentioned never paid him for the
property, merely paying the rental, and claim-
ing that Bridger's title was not perfect. This
was a great injustice to Bridger. His title
was one of possession. He had established
here a trading post that had been of great
benefit to the Government and the overland
immigration, and he was entitled to all he
claimed. The fort was the rendezvous of
all the trade and travel, of the Indians, trap-
pers and voyagers of all that section of the
country.
Concerning his claim against the Govern-
ment, under date of October 27, 1873, Bridger
wrote to General B. F. Butler, U. S. Senator,
as follows:
* * * "You are probably aware that I am
one of the earliest and oldest explorers and
trappers of the Great West now alive. Many
years prior to the Mexican War, the time
Fort Bridger and adjoining Territories be-
came the property of the United States, and
ten years thereafter (1857) I was in peacable
possession of my old trading post, Fort
Bridger, occupied it as such, and resided
'thereat, a fact well known to the Govern-
ment, as well as the public in general.
"Shortly before the so-called Utah Expedi-
tion, and before the Government troops un-
der General A. S. Johnston arrived near Salt
Lake City, I was robbed and threatened with
death by the Mormons, by the direction of
Brigham Young, of all my merchandise,
stock, in fact everything I possessed, amount-
ing to more than $100,000 worth— the build-
ings in the fort practically destroyed by fire,
and I barely escaped with my life.
"I was with and piloted the army under
said General Johnston out there, and since the
approach of winter no convenient shelter for
the troops and stock could be found in the
vicinity of Salt Lake, I tendered to them my
so-called fort (Fort Bridger) with the ad-
joining shelter, affording rally for winter
quarters. My offer being accepted, a writ-
ten contract was entered into between myself
and Captain Dickerson, of the Quartermas-
ter's Department, in behalf of the United
States, approved by General A. S. Johnston,
and more so signed by various officers on
the general's staff such as Major Fitz-john
Portor, Drs. Madison, Mills and Bailey; Lieu-
tenant Rich, Colonel Wright, and others a
copy of which is now on file in the War De-
partment at Washington. I also was fur-
nished with a copy thereof, which was unfor-
tunately destroyed during the war.
"I am now getting old and feeble and am
a poor man, and consequently unable tc
prosecute my claim as it probably should be
done. For that reason I respectfully apply
to you with the desire of entrusting the mat-
ter into your hands, ^authorizing you for me
to use such means as you may deem proper
for the successful prosecution of this claim.
I would further state that 1 have been strictly
loyal during the later rebellion, and during
the most of the time in the war in the em-
ployment of the Government.
"Trusting confidently that you will do me
the favor of taking the matter in hand or
furnish me with your advise in the matter,
I have the honor, etc."
On July 4, 1849, Bridger's second wife, a
Ute, died. He had been for some time con-
sidering the movement of his family to the
states, where his children could be educated,
intending to devote his own time to the trad-
ing post at Fort Bridger. He went to the
State in 1850, taking with him his third wife,-
a Snake woman, and settled upon a little
farm near Little Santa Fe, Jackson County,
Missouri. Bridger usually spent the sum-
mers on the plains and went home winters.
In the spring of 1862 Bridger was at his
home in Little Santa Fe, when the Govern-
ment called him onto the plains to guide the
troops in the Indian campaigns. I found
him there when I took charge of that coun-
try in January, 1865, and placed him as guide
of the Eleventh Ohio Cavalry in its march
from Fort Riley to Fort Laramie. Bridger
remained with them in the many encounters
they had with the Indians and his services
to them were invaluable. In the Indian cam-
paign of 1865-6 Bridger guided General Con-
ner's column that marched from Fort Lara-
mie to Tongle River, and took part in the
battle on Tongue River.
Captain H. E. Palmer, Eleventh Kansas
Cavalry, Acting Assistant Adju. General to
General P. E. Conner, gives this description
oi the Indian camp on Tongue River, August
26, 1865:
"Left Piney Fork at 6:45 A. M., traveled
north over a beautiful country until about 8
A. M., when our advance reached the top
of the ridge dividing the waters of the Pow-
der from that of the Tongue River. I was
■iding in the extreme advance in company
with Major Bridger. We were 2,000 yards
it least ahead of the General and his staff;
Duf Pawnee scouts were there and there was
10 advance guard immediately in front. As
:he Major and myself reached the top of the
bill we voluntarily halted our steeds. I
'aised my field glass to my eyes and took in
:he grandest view that I had ever seen. I
could see the north end of the Big Horn
■ange, and away beyond the faint outline of
he mountains beyond the Yellowstone. Away
to the northeast the Wolf Mountain range
vas distinctly visible. Immediately before us
ay the Valley of Peneau Creek, now called
Prairie Dog Creek, and beyond the Little
joose, Big Goose, and Tongue River Val-
leys, and many other tributary streams. The
morning was clear and bright, with not a
)reath of air stirring. The old Major, sit-
ing upon his horse with his eyes shaded with
lis hands, had been telling me for an hour
)r more about his Indian life — his forty
fears' experience on the plains, telling me
low to trail Indians, and distinguish the
racks of different tribes; how every spear
)f grass, every tree and srub and stone was
l compass to the experienced trapper and
lunter- — a subject that I had discussed with
lim nearly every day. During the winter of
863 I had contributed to help Mrs. Bridger
ind the rest of the family, all of which facts
he Major had been acquainted with, which
nduced him to treat me as an old-time
riend.
"As I lowered my glass the Major said,
Do you see those ere columns of smoke over
onder?' I replied, 'Where, Major?' to which
le answered, 'Over there by that ere saddle,'
meaning a depression in the hills not unlike
he shape of a saddle, pointing at the same
ime to a point nearly fifty miles away. I
gain raised my glass to my eyes and took
long, earnest look, and for the life of me
ould not see any column of smoke, even
nth a strong field glass. The Major was
coking without any artificial help. The at-
mosphere appeared to be slightly hazy in
the long distance, like smoke, but there were
no distinct columns of smoke in sight. As
soon as the General with his staff arrived 1
called his attention to Major Bridger's dis-
covery. The General raised his field glass
and scanned the horizon closely, after a long
look, he remarked that there were no col-
umns of smoke to be seen. The Major
quietly mounted his horse and rode on. I
asked the General to look again; that the
Major was very confident that he could see
columns of smoke which, of course indicated
an Indian village. The General made an-
other examination and again, asserted that
there was no column of smoke. However,
to satisfy curiosity and to give our guides
no chance to claim that they had shown us
an Indian village and we would not attack
it, he suggested to Captain Frank North,
who was riding with his staff, that he go
with seven of his Indians in the direction
indicated to reconnoitre and to report to us
on Peneau Creek or Tongue River, down
which were to march. I galloped on and
overtook the Major, and as I came up to
him overheard him remark about "these damn
paper collar soldiers" telling him there was
no columns of smoke. The old man was
very indignant at our doubting his ability
to outsee us, with the aid of field glasses
even. Just after sunset on August 27 two
of the Pawnees who went out with Captain
North had discovered an Indian village."
It was this villiage that Conner captured
the next day, the fight being known as the
battle of Tongue River.
In May, 1869, Captain Raynolds was as-
signed to the exploration of the country sur-
rounding Yellowstone Park, and I have no
Joubt it was from hearing of Bridger's knowl-
edge of that park and its surroundings that
caused him to engage Bridger for his guide.
Bridger was with him about a year and a
half, but they failed on his trip to enter the
park, being stopped by the heavy snows in
the passes, but they explored and mapped
the country surrounding the park.
In 1860 Ned Buntline, the great story ro-
mance writer, hunted up Bridger at his home
in Weston and Bridger gave him enough ad-
ventures to keep him writing the balance of
his life. Bridger took a liking to Buntline,
and took him across the plains with him on
scouting trip. After a while Buntline re-
turned to the East, and not long afterwards
the Jim Bridger stories commenced to be
published. One of these was printed every
week, and Bridger's companions used to save
them up and read them to him. Buntline
made Bridger famous, and carried him
through more hairbreadth escapes than any
man ever had.
Bridger's first wife was the daughter of a
Flathead chief. She died in 1846. Her chil-
dren were Felix and Josephine, both of whom
were sent to school in St. Louis. Felix en-
listed in the spring of 1863 in Company I,
Second Missouri Artillery, under General
Totten. He served throughout the Civil
War, and later was with Custer in his In-
dian campaigns in Texas and Indian Terri-
tory. He died in 1876 on the farm near Lit-
tie Santa Fe, Missouri, having returned there
from Dallas, Texas.
Bridger's second wife was a Ute, who died
July 4th, 1849, at the birth of her first child,
now Mrs. Virginia K. Waschman. Bridger
brought this child up on buffalo's milk. When
she was five years old she was sent to Rob-
ert Campbell in St. Louis, and two years
later joined her sister Josephine in the con-
vent.
When Virginia was about 10 years old
she obtained from Mrs. Robert Campbell a
daguerreotype of her father which was taken
in 1843. She colored or painted his picture,
and in 1902 presented it to me, saying: "I
am most sure you will be pleased with it as
a gift from me, and it will remind you of the
great old times that you and father had when
you were out in the mountains among the
wild Indians. I have often heard my father
speak of you, and have wanted to see you
and tell you a great many things that hap-
pened when I was a child at Fort Bridger.
Before my father's death he was very anx-
ious to see you regarding old Fort Bridger,
but could not find you."
In 1850 Bridger took as his third wife a
Snake woman. He bought a little farm near
Santa Fe, Mo., and moved his family there
from Fort Bridger that year. Mary was
born in 1853. William was born in 1857,
and died from consumption in 1892. In 1858
his wife died and buried in Boone cemetery,
near Waldo Station, Missouri. Bridger was
on the plains at the time of her death, but
returned to Missouri in the spring of 1859,
soon after he heard of her death, and re-
mained on the farm until 1862. This year
he rented the farm to a man named Brooks,
and bought the Colonel A. G. Boone house
in Wesport. He left his family there in
charge of a Mr. London and his wife, and
on the call of the Government in the spring
of 1862 he left for the mountains to guide
the troops on the plains. He remained on
plains until late in 1869 or 1870. In the
spring of 1871 he moved back to his farm
near Little Santa Fe.
Of his life from this time until his death,
his daughter Mrs. Waschman, writes me the
following:
"In 1873 father's health began to fail him,
and his eyes were very bad, so that he could
not see good, and the only way that father
could distinguish any person was- by the
sound of their voice, but all who had the
privilege of knowing him were aware of his
wonderful state of health at that time, but
later, in 1874, father's eyesight was leaving
him very fast and this worried him so much.
He has often-times wished that he could see
you. At times father would get very ner-
vous, and wanted to be on the go. I had to
watch after him and lead him around to
please him, never still one moment.
"I got father a good old gentle horse, so
that he could ride around and have some-
thing to pass away time, so one day he named
his old horse "Ruff." We also had a dog
that went with father; he named this old,
faithful dog "Sultan." Sometimes father
would call me and say: "I wish you would
go and saddle old Ruff for me; I feel like
riding around the farm," and the faithful
old dog would go along. Father could not
see very well, but the old faithful horse
would guide him along, but at times father
would draw the lines wrong, and the horse
would go wrong, and they would get lost
in the woods. The strange part of it was
the old, faithful dog Sultan, would come
home and let us know that father was lost.
The dog would bark and whine until I would
go out and look for him, and lead him and
the old horse home on the main road. Some-
times father wanted to take a walk out to
the fields with old Sultan by his side, and
cane in hand to guide his way out to the
wheat field, would want to know how high
the wheat was, and then father would go
down on his knees and reach out his hands
to feel for the wheat, and that was the way
he passed away his time.
"Father at times wished that he could see,
and only have his eyesight back again, so
that he could go back out to see the moun-
tains, I know he at times would feel lone-
some, and long to see some of his old moun-
tain friends to have a good chat of olden
times away back in the fifties.
"Father often spoke of you, and would
say, T wonder if General Dodge is alive or
not; I would give anything in the world if
I could see some of the old army officers
once more to have a talk with them of olden
times, but I know I will not be able to see
any of my old-time mountain friends any
more. I know that my time is near. I feel
that my health is failing me very fast, and
see that I am not the same man I used to
be.' "
Bridger was 77 years old when he died, and
was buried on the Stubbins Watts farm, a
mile north of Dallas, not far south of West-
port. His two sons, William and Felix, were
buried beside him.
On Bridger's grave-stone is the following:
"James Bridger, born March 17, 1804-
died July 17, 1881.
We miss thee in the circle around the fire-
side,
We miss thee in devotion at peaceful even-
tide.
The memory of your nature so full of truth
and love.
Shall lead our thoughts to seek them among
the best above.
At the time of his death Bridger's home
was a long two-story house; not far from
where he is buried with big chimneys at each
end. It is now abandoned and dilapidated,
with windows all broken. It is about one
mile south of Dallas. He had 160 acres of
land. No one lived in the house for years.
The neighbors say it is haunted, and will
not go near it.
One of his wives is buried in a grave-yard
several miles east of his grave. I found
Bridger a very companionable man.
In person he was over six feet tall, spare,
straight as an arrow, agile, rawboned and of
powerful frame, eyes gray, hair brown and
abundant even in old age, expression mild
and manners agreeable. He was hospitable
and generous, and was always trusted and
respected. He possessed in a high degree
he confidence of the Indians. He was one
if the most noted hunters and trappers on
he plains. Naturally shrewd, and possessing
:een faculties of observation he carefully
tudied the habits of all animals, especially
he beaver, and, profiting: from the knowl-
dge obtained from the Indians, with whom
e chiefly associated, and with whom he be-
ame a great favorite, he soon became one
if the most expert hunters and trappers in
he mountains. The beaver at first abound-
d in every mountain stream in the country,
>ut at length, by being constantly pursued,
hey began to grow more wary and diminish
n numbers, until it became necessary for
rappers to extend their researches to more
!istant streams. Eager to gratify his cur-
osity, and with a natural fondness for moun-
ain scenery, he traversed the country in ev-
ry direction, sometimes accompanied by an
ndian, but oftener alone. He familiarized
limself with every mountain peak, every
eep gorge, every hill and every landmark
n the country. Having arrived upon the
>anks of some before undiscovered stream,
nd finding signs of his favorite game, he
vould immediately proceed to his traps, and
hen take his gun and wander over the hills
:i quest of game, the meat of which formed
he only diet of the trapper at that early
ay. When a stream afforded game it was
rapped to its source, and never left as long
s beaver could be caught.
While engaged in this thorough system of
rapping no object of interest escaped his
crutiny, and when once known it was ever
fter remembered. He could describe with
he minutest accuracy places that perhaps
le had visited but once, and that many years
before, and he could travel in almost a direct
ine from one point to another in the greatest
listances, with certainty of always making
lis goal. He pursued his trapping expedi-
ions north to the British possessions, south
ar into New Mexico and west to the Pacific
)cean, and in this way became acquainted
vith all the Indian tribes in the country, and
iy long intercourse with them learned their
anguages, and became familiar with all their
igns. He adopted their habits, conformed
o their customs, became imbued with all
heir superstitions, and at length excelled
hem in strategy. He was a great favorite
vith the Crow nation, and was one time
lected and became their chief.
Bridger was also a great Indian fighter,
ind I have heard two things said of him
>y the best plainsmen of his time; that he
lid not know what fear was, and that he
lever once lost his bearings, either on the
>lains or in the mountains.
In those days Bridger was rich. He was
it the head of great trapping parties, and
wo great fur companies — the Rocky Moun-
ain Fur Company and Northwestern Fur
Company. When he became older he spent
lis winters in Westport, and in the summer
vas a scout and guide for Government troops
jetting ten dollars a day in gold.
Unquestionably Bridger's claims to remem-
>rance rest upon the extraordinary part he
)ore in the explorations of the West. As
i guide he was without an equal, and this
is the testimony of every one who ever em-
ployed him. He was a born topographer;
the whole west was mapped out in his mind,
and such was his instinctive sense of locality
and direction that it used to be said of him
that he could smell his way where he could
not see it. He was a complete master of
plains and woodcraft, equal to any emer-
gency, full of resources to overcome any ob-
stacle, and I came to learn gradually how
it was that for months such men could live
without food except what the country afford-
ed in that wild region. In a few hours they
would put together a bull-boat and put us
across any stream. Nothing escaped their
vision, the dropping of a stick or breaking
of a twig, the turning of the growing grass,
all brought knowledge to them, and they
could tell who or what had done it. A single
horse or Indian could not cross the trail but
that they discovered it, and could tell how
long since they passed. Their methods of
hunting game were perfect, and we were
never out of meat. Herbs, roots, berries,
bark of trees and everything that was edible
they knew. They could minister to the sick,
dress wounds — in fact in all my experience
I never saw Bridger or the other voyagers
of the plains and mountains meet any ob-
stacle they could not overcome.
While Bridger was not an educated man,
still any country that he had ever seen he
could fully and intelligently describe, and
could make a very correct estimate of the
country surrounding it. He could make a
map of any country he had traveled over,
mark out its streams and mountains and the
obstacles in it correctly, so that there was
no trouble in following it and fully under-
standing it. He never claimed knowledge
that he did not have of the country, or its
history and surroundings, and was positive
in his statements in relation to it. He was
a good judge of human nature. His com-
ments upon people that he had met and been
with were always intelligent and seldom criti-
cal. He always spoke of their good parts,
and was universally respected by the moun-
tain men and looked upon as a leader, also
by all the Indians. He was careful to never
give his word without fulfilling it. He un-
derstood thoroughly the Indian character,
their peculiarities and superstitions. He felt
very keenly any loss of confidence in him
or his judgment, especially when acting as
a guide, and when he struck a country or
trail he was not familiar with he would
frankly say so, but would often say he could
take our party up to the point he wanted to
reach. As a guide I do not think he had his
equal upon the plains. So remarkable a man
should not be lost to history and the coun-
try, and his work allowed to be forgotten,
and for this reason I have compiled this
sketch and raised a simple monument to rrX
memory, reciting upon it briefly the prin-
cipal facts of his life and work. It bears this
inscription:
1804— James Bridger— 1881
Celebrated as a hunter, trapper, fur trader
and guide. Discovered Great Salt Lake
1824, the South Pass 1827. Visited Yellow-
stone Lake and Geysers 1830. Founded
Fort Bridger 1843. Opened Overland
Route by Bridger's Pass to Great Salt
Lake. Was guide for U- S. exploring ex-
peditions, Albert Sidney Johnston's army
in 1857 and G. M. Dodge in U.- P. surveys
and Indian campaigns 1865-1866.
This monument is erected as a tribute to
his pioneer work by Major Gen. G. M.
Dodge:
THE ONLY LIFE OF THE FAMOUS
TRAPPER
A very important (and scarce) narrative,
by his friend, Gen. Dodge. Privately printed
and none for sale. Printed for Friends this
work has passed entirely away and is today
one of the very "Hard" works to find.
GIRLHOOD RECOLLECTIONS
OF LARAMIE IN 1870 AND 1871
"We shall not travel by the road we make,
Ere, day by day, the sound of many feet
Is heard upon the stones that now we break
We shall be come to where the cross-roads
meet.
For them the shade of trees that now we
plant
The safe, smooth journey and the final
goal,
Yea, birthright in the land of covenant —
For us day labor; travail of the soul.
And yet — the road is ours as never theirs!
Is not one joy on us alone bestowed?
For us the Master-Joy, O Pioneer:
We shall not travel but we make the
Road."
— Friedlander.
It seems only a very short time ago yet
five decades have passed since that memor-
able tenth day of June, 1870, at about two
p. m. — and a gloriously bright, sunny day
it was, when our family of eight members
arrived in Laramie. We came for a visit
but that visit has proven a sojourn of more
than fifty-three years on my part. I am the
only member ot the family whose lot has
been cast on the crest of the wonderful Rocky
Mountains; I alone am left to tell what to
me is a most interesting experience.
My father, Luther Fillmore, and my only
brother, Millard Fillmore, had preceded us;
my father about two years before and my
brother a few months. Fiesh from college
and just past twenty-one my brother came
and plunged boldly into a very tragic ex-
perience which hurried our coming. After
being here a week or so my brother for some
reason was sent out over the Union Pacific
Railroad as a special conductor. He was to
make only the one trip — and a memorable
one it was. A few miles east of Fort Steele
at a station I think then called St. Mary's,
two soldiers who had been out hunting and
tired of walking got on the train to go to
Ft. Steele. One of them had money enough
to pay his fare, the other had none and was
told he could not ride, so the train wa^
stopped and he was put off. My brother and
the soldier friend stood looking out of the
door window of the car, my brother in front,
when the soldier from the outside fired
through the door shooting my brother
through the thigh, making a flesh wound.
The same bullet passed into the body of the
soldier friend, killing him instantly. The
train was quickly run to Ft. Steele where
my brother was taken to the Army Hospital
until he recovered.
One day I was standing with my brother
on the hotel platform when a fine looking
man came along. I asked who he was and
was told that he was Judge Brown, the law-
yer who defended the soldier that shot my
brother. I immediately said, "I never want
to meet him." Strange to say in about four
years' time I married that very man and we
are expecting to celebrate our golden wed-
ding next year.
I have realized more and more as the
years have passed what a trying ordeal it
was for my dear mother to come out to this
strange and new country, almost fearing she
might have to make it her home, and I,
fearing we might not. The pioneer blood
of ancestors was coursing through my veins
and I longed for adventure. Coming from
an old aristocratic town, as old as Philadel-
phia, it was quite remarkable that conditions
in this new country pleased and satisfied my
father, my brother and myself. My three
sisters were too young to care about the
change. Of course we were lonely many
times but I can truly say I have never felt
regret. There were no trees or flowers to
greet us and we missed them more than I
can tell, but we had the wonderful moun-
tains and beautiful hills to behold. I had
seen great mountains but never such hills.
They were a constant source of wonder and
delight and I can say after fifty-three years
of acquaintance with them they have never
lost their pristine beauty to me. I truly be-
lieve much of my happiness and joy have
come from lifting my eyese unto them. We
went on a picnic to them a short time after
we arrived. We went in government ambul-
ances with an escort of soldiers and had a
beautiful day. I forget the members of that
oarty excepting one, Mr. Joseph Cornell, the
Episcopal clergyman. I' suppose I remember
him because of a lapsus linguae he made. I
asked him why we were so long getting to
the hills, they seemed so near. He said,
"The reason is, that the 'lead devil' of the
plains causes them to seem nearer than they
really are." Of course he meant 'dead,
level,' every one laughed and so did I, im-
moderately. A girl of sixteen can see almost
too much fun in things.
We were always afraid of meeting Indians
somewhere but we never did. In fact, I have
never seen one in or near Laramie excepting
those who have come with exhibitions or
some sort. There was an Indian scare soon
after we came at Lookout Station. The In-
dians came into the place consisting of a tele-
graph station and section house. No one
was home so the visitors did all the mischief
they could, pouring molasses into the feather
beds and emptying all the groceries they did
not want over the floor. The people living
in small places like Lookout had cellars or
v\
father tunnels concealed into which they
could hide, something like the cyclone cell.irs
people have nowadays.
The mountains at the west of us were ma-
jestic and glorious. The wonder and beauty
of the Laramie Plains have ever increased
to me until now I am not happy away from
them. I recall how beautifully green they
were when I first saw them and when I first
rode over them and saw the thousands of
head of cattle — one time five thousand head
together, my wonder was alm6st beyond me.
The antelope we saw at that time in large
herds were a magnificent sight. They were
graceful and beautiful. The prairie dogs
were new to us, their little villages seemed
everywhere. 1 was always looking for the
little owl and rattlesnake I had heard bur-
rowed with them; but I never saw them tho
I know they did all live together in the early
history of this country. The antelope I had
seen before for we owned two in our home
in Pennsylvania — Bill and Eliza great pets
that my father brought to us on his first
visit home from this country. They became
so domesticated they would do all sorts of
things for us. They rather be fed from our
hands than other other way. People were
a.b>Yays coming to see them but they were
very' exclusive and knew only our family.
They were very funny when we would tie
a straw hat on Bill and a shaker on Eliza,
immediately they would trot proudly off to
make us laugh and run after them. Over
fields and brooks we would fly and then all
lie down together to rest. We felt very sad
to give them up. Father presented them to
Governor Packer of Pennsylvania for his
beautiful private park. I always felt so sorry
when I saw the beautiful herds of them that
Eliza and Bill had ever been taken from their
native haunts. To see them in such mini
jers and so beautiful seemed like a fain-
tale come true. Fortunately the Fillmore
:amily were all lovers of nature. Every-
thing we saw here seemed to us the very
iesire of our hearts.
I recall our first visit to the Hutton and
Msop ranches. It was at the time of the
summer round-up and such a sicht as that
,vas. I remember Mr. Edward Creighton of
Dmaha was one of our party. It was through
him I believe that Mr. Hutton began the
business of cattle raising. At that time the
jreed of cattle here was entirely Texas —
:heir long, wide spreading horns were very
hreatening. They stood in groups curiously
ooking at us. I never felt comfortable near
:hem. I 'expected them to start running at
is. If they ever had it would have been
?ood-bye to us.
The first visit to Mr. Hutton's ranch was
vonderful but the next one was even more
;o for we found out what ranch life really
vas in those days. When Governor Camp-
>ell and his lovely Washington bride came
hey were taken out to visit Mr. Hutton's
anch. I was invited to be one of the party.
i felt quite like an old timer — 'sour dough'
hey call them in Alaska — showing Mrs.
Campbell about the place. I remember she
isked me a great many questions. I think
[ answered them all satisfactorily and felt
quite puffed up with pride. Finally Mrs.
Campbell said, "I wonder if we could have
a glass of milk?" I said, "Oh, yes, of
course." I found Mr. Hutton and asked him
if we might have some milk and bread. I
never will forget his astonished gaze when
he said, "Milk? Why we never have milk or
bread. We always have biscuit. Go and
see if there are not some cold ones in the
cupboard." We went on a voyage of dis-
covery. All we found was halt of an un-
cooked ham. We both exclaimed "Old Moth-
er Hubbard." I asked Mr. Hutton why they
never had milk with thousands of cows
around. Surprised at me again he said, "We
never have time to milk a cow. And besides
the calves must have all the milk there is."
There were a number of men standing and
lying in the shade of the corrals. After a
good dinner they were resting. The cooks
were in the bunk house asleep. Air. Hutton
insisted upon calling them and having a din-
ner cooked for us but we would not hear to
it. After that time we always took our own
lunch basket with us for we learned the busi-
ness of a ranch in those days was raising
cattle and nothing else. Ranching was then
in its infancy. Women were rarely seen
about at all. Today, ranches have become
lovely country homes— some of then) almost
luxurious.
Mr. Hutton was a peculiar man and a
most unique and original one. He was as
interesting to us children as Santa Clans.
He and my father became very dear friends.
His presence in our home was always hailed
with delight. He was one of the very bright
spots in our new life and was as unusual as
the many other things we had met. He
truly belonged to the Laramie Plains. He
was a part of them. If his business ability
had been half equal to his good humor and
kindness of heart he might have been a great
cattle king. I doubt if any man ever had a
better opportunity. I shall never forget his
merry laugh and twinkling blue eye or the
splendid philosophy of his life which was
enough to make him envied. It never seem-
ed right to me that he died a poor man.
Some one said to me in the early days that
Charlie Hutton was his own enemy and the
only one he had. I hope some one who
knew him better than a young girl could
write a sketch of his life. I know that he
came out here from Iowa before the Union
Pacific Railroad was built and was employed
in building the Western Union Telegraph
line.
Dr. Latham was also a most interesting
character whom I re.call, of the early days.
He was a tall, erect person and was the
Union Pacific surgeon in charge of the hos-
pital here. He was full of antedotes and a
charming talker, a man of culture and edu-
cation. He and his lovely wile helped us to
be happy many times after the novelty of ar-
riving was over. He too is a man who could
be well written up. Years after lie left here
I met him in California. He was then man-
aging Mrs. Hurst's large estate. Previous
to that, after leaving here, he held some im-
portant educational commission in Japan.
We lived for some time at the Union Pa-
cific Hotel and enjoyed it very much for the
proprietor, Mr. Philo Rumsey and his sons,
Captain Henry Rumsey and James, or Jim
as we called him, did everything possible to
make us feel at home. We have always felt
very grateful to them. Mr. Henry Rumsey's
wife was a most charming woman, one I
shall never forget. Edith, the sister of Henry
and James, was near my own age, though
much more sophisticated than I. My life
had been spent in a quiet, Quaker town,
and school. I had never been out in society
and Edith, it seemed to me, had always been
in society. She had quite a charm of man-
ner and we were good chums. The other
girls of my acquaintance in the early days
were Alice Harper (Mrs. Robert Marsh) and
her sister, Nellie (Mrs. John Gunster), Eva
Owen (.Mrs. Stephen Downey), and her sis-
ter Etta (Mrs. Roach), Hattie Andrews
(Mrs. Phillips), Cora Andrews (Mrs. Brees),
Ella Galbraith (Mrs. Charles Stone), and
Minnie Arnold (Mrs. Eurgens), and Maggie
Ivinson (Mrs. Crow). I also recall Nellie
Hilton (Mrs. Locke). Her father was a phy-
sician, also a Methodist preacher.
One of my very early recollections is of
two beautiful brides calling upon us, both
gorgeously attired. Their distinct types in-
terested me. Mrs. Donnellan was a hand-
some brunette and Mrs. Abbott a perfect
blonde. I remember in detail just how they
looked and fascinated me. They both be-
came very dear friends of mine in later
years.
One of the very interesting events of our
first summer was seeing several trainloads
of Chinamen pass through Lraamie. They
stopped long enough to cook their rice which
took them an incredably short time. We
watched them with great curiosity and inter-
est. When the train stopped almost instant-
ly the cooks jumped from different cars
along the train with large kettles. They
quickly built fires and boiled water into which
they poured quantities of rice and it seemed
no time until those kettles were filled to
overflowing with large kernels of cooked rice.
Then out of the cars came forth swarms of
Chinamen all sizes, each with his bowl and
chop-sticks. They were served with all they
could eat and how quickly they did eat it!
The chop-sticks played a tune, and how they
all jabbered at once all the time. They soon
began piling pack into the cars and seemed
like a swarm of bees. Finally all was quiet
and the cooks cleaned out their kettles quick-
ly and jumped onto the different cars from
which they came out. Not a word had been
spoken by those cooks that I could see. They
attended strictly to business. The discipline
of that occasion was truly marvelous. After
they had gone I could hardly realize what
I had seen. I felt as if the earth had turned
over and I had seen China on top. Those
people in their native dress with their large
hats and hair in nues were too much for my
imagination.
Those Chinamen were being taken to New
England where they were going to work in
shoe factories and the men in charge told
us they had eaten only rice seasoned with
salt, no sugar or butter or tea, from San
Francisco to Laramie, and that their oiet
would be the same to the end of their jour-
ney in New England. Some time after this
I met Ah Say, the agent and interpreter for
the Chinamen employed on the Union Pacific
Railroad. Ah Say was often in our home in
consultation wjth my father. He was a gen-
tleman, intelligent, and most interesting and
spoke very good English. He was always
bringing us presents of Chinese fruit and
nuts and very often more costly and rare
gifts. He came one day looking very happy
and said he was soon to be married and
wanted us to see his wife some time. He
told me rather quietly that she was a little-
footed woman. I suppose he did not want
to boast too proudly of his great fortune so
told only me about it. I always hoped we
might see Mrs. Ah Say but it was never
our good fortune. I believe they lived in
Evanston upon their return from China, but
my father had become a cattle man before
their return. Chinese were not very long
employed after that time but I know they
served very faithfully and satisfactorily while
they were permitted to stay.
We met many noted people in the summer
of 1870. Most of them from New England
who in some way were interested in the
Union Pacific Railroad and were going over
it to see whether it was a reality or a myth.
I recall one party in particular which we
were invited to join on a trip to Salt Lake
City. My father and mother and I went
with Colonel Hammond in his private car on
that occasion. Colonel Hammond was an
officer of the Union Pacific Railroad. Our
party consisted of Colonel and Mrs. Ham-
mond, Dr. and Mrs. Hurd of Galesburg, Il-
linois, and Mr. and Mrs. Meade of Quincy,
Illinois. We had a wonderful time, the whole
trip particularly through Echo and Webber
Canons was interesting to us all. When we
arrived at Salt Lake City, Brigham Young
gave a reception to the party and we were
taken about the city in royal style. In the
evening we attended the theater and saw
Brigham Young come in with all his wives
(it was said). I really think all nineteen
were there. The husband looked perfectly
composed and the wives not at all discon-
certed. The play I forgot all about but the
circumstances attending it I never can, they
were too unique. I had always thought of
Brigham Young as sort of a Bluebeard but
after seeing his kindly face and pleasant
smile concluded that he was just trying to
be another King Solomon. I have made
many trips to Salt Lake City since but the
thrill of the first visit has never been eclipsed.
Laramie was a queer looking place in the
early days, no trees or flowers, but one thing
it did have that was most attractive was clear,
running water along either side of the streets
much like the beautiful brooks at home. On
a quiet night one could hear their merry
ripple. Most people used the" water from
them for ordinary purposes but for drinking
we had water brought from the river which
was quite expensive. People often sank bar-
rels in the ditches and so had a quantity to
dip from but those barrels were very treach-
erous on a dark night, one was liable to step
lto them. My sister-in-law, in getting out
f a carriage one night very agilely jumped
ight into one. The worst of it was she had
n a beautiful new gown her mother had
ent her from Philadelphia. She was a sorry
ight when we got her out, and her new
own completely ruined. I often got my
let wet stepping into the ditches but never
ot into a barrel. There were no sidewalk?
d guide one and the ditches were level with
he streets so it was quite a feat to keep out
f the water. I often wonder now how
lothers ever kept their children out of those
ttractive ditches for there were no fences
round the shacks of houses people lived in.
The houses had tent backs and pretentious
rame fronts, something like the ones I heard
Sishop Robert Mclntyre describe as houses
/ith Queen Anne fronts and Mary Anne
acks. They were certainly unique and in-
eresting.
The second week after our arrival I met
At. F. L. Arnold, the Presbyterian minister.
ie called to know if I would play the organ
or him the next day. He was to hold ser-
ices at the school house which was the
aeeting place alternate Sundays for the
/Tethodists, Baptists, and Presbyterians. I
aid no, I'd rather not. I was such a stranger
ie'.4 Jjetter find some one else, and he very
litifully said, "My dear child, there is no
Ime else to find, for there is no one here who
Ivill play for me." My dear father was pres-
ent and said, "Yes, she will play for you.
She must do her part in this new country
ind that is one thing she can do." So I
hustered up courage like a dutiful child and
lid my part. I finally ended by playing at
.11 the services of each denomination that 1
lave mentioned. They also had a union
Sunday School for which I sang and played
or I always had to do both. When the dif-
erent churches were built I played at the
ledication of each one. Mr. Arnold became
me of the dearest friends of my life and my
nemory of him is most sacred. One Sun-
Jay after church he asked me to go with
lim to sing at Fiddler Bill's funeral. We
;tarted off, he with his Bible and I with my
rlymn Book. We went to a little shack
lirty and miserable in every way. The house
vas crowded to overflowing with the flot-
sam and jetsam of the town. I had never
;een or heard of such looking people both
nen and women, blear eyed and sodden. Mr.
\rnold stood just outside the door and made
i beautiful talk to those poor people. I sat
)Utside on a sawbuck with a board laid
icross it and sang several times, too often
>ut Mr. Arnold said afterwards he thought
the singing would do them more good than
vhat he could say. I recall how miserably
[ felt because I was too dressed up. I
ipologized to Mr. Arnold for being so un-
suitably dressed. (No doubt my sub-con-
scious mind had suggested sack cloth and
ishes for that occasion.) Mr. Arnold and
[ had many experiences similar to that one
DUt none that ever impressed me more ser-
ously.
Mr. D. J. Pearce, the Baptist minister,
;ame later in June. Mr. Pearce was a re-
markable man, most industrious and earn-
est. He soon built a church on the site of
the present attractive one and opened a
school in the basement. He called his school
Wyoming University. He was ably assisted
in his work by his young wife and their
school was a great credit to Laramie. I was
a member of their Latin class, Mr. C. P.
Arnold was also a member. If there were
others I do not now recall them. Mr. Pearce
was a man of vision. He told me our beau-
tiful University of Wyoming of which our
state is so justly proud would stand just
where it does. There was a cemetery there
then. I said, "Impossible, Mr. Pearce. It
is Laramie's cemetery." He replied, "You
will live to see that moved farther up the
hill." So I have. I often wish Mr. Pearce
could have lived to see our present Univer-
sity and be able to dream with us its great
future.
Mr. Brooks, the Methodist minister, soon
came and took charge of the Methodist ser-
vices. He was a young unmarried man, won-
derfully active and insisted upon very am-
bitious music. Since I was the only person
so far who could or would play and sing it
was rather hard on me. I never can under-
stand why the people in Laramie would not
sing in those days. I often shed tears over
it. I believe people finally felt sorry for me
for they did find their voices and helped me
all they could.
Right here I wish to subscribe a tribute
to a Mr. Crancall. He was a painter and a
hard working man but when he could he
always came and helped me at the Sunday
services. He had a good voice and quite an
understanding of music.
I remember Chaplain McCabe sang at the
dedication of the Methodist Church. I as-
sisted him. He had a wonderful voice and
rejoiced my heart for he was the first singer
I had heard since coming to Laramie. I
+hink Bishop McCabe preached the dedi-
catory sermon. I am not quite sure about
this, any way I heard him preach in the
new church and recall his powerful sermon
and wonderful stories. I also heard Bishop
Joyce in the old Methodist church. He was
one of the most saintly looking men I have
ever seen, also I think the tnost powerful
preacher I have ever heard. Methodist bish-
ops have always impressed me as being
great preachers.
Rev. Joseph Cornell of the Episcopal
church was here when we came and the
church built. My father often wrote us how
he was helping to dance the roof on the new
Episcopal church. Not being a dancing man
we always laughed about his help. But our
dear friend Mrs. Ivinson told me that she
had gotten father to take a few steps. Now
we have the beautiful Cathedral standing
near the site of the little old church of the
early days.
The Catholic church was also built when
we came and is the only one so far that has
not been rebuilt. Father Cusson was in
charge of it. He was a Frenchman and a
man the whole town respected and loved.
Laramie was a good town and striving up-
ward all the time. The churches and the
schools showed their influence.
Mr. Harrington was the principal of the
public school; and my father was a member
of the School Board. The building has been
transformed into Root's Opera House and
stands on the same site where it was erected.
I think in some way it should always be kept
as a memorial to the early work it was priv-
ileged to begin.
It is true there was still many saloons and
gambling places left in Laramie. It was a
common thing to hear some one call out
loudly something about a key. It seemed to
me sometimes like a song a man was sing-
ing inside the building but I soon learned it
was a game they played called Keno. But
those days did not last long. Public senti-
ment required at least more quiet in the
places that were onse so open and noisy.
The terrible days of lynching were past
though I'm sorry to say two cases have oc-
curred since that time that I remember, but
the early cases were before our time.
The first large party of my life was one
given by Mr. and Mrs. Ivinson shortly after
our arrival. It was a great event to me and
I recall it as a very beautiful one. I have
attended a great many parties given by these
same dear friends in the past fifty-three years
in more spacious and costly surroundings but
none more beautiful to me than that first
one in 1870 when they lived over and back
of their store. After all it is what we put
into our hospitality of our very selves that
seems to count most. My mother became
somewhat reconciled to her exile in Laramie
and gave the second large party of my re-
membrance in honor of my brother and his
bride.
There were plenty of social affairs. It
kept one quite busy attending them. I re-
call a reception given by the young men of
Laramie in honor of Governor Campbell and
his bride which could not have been outdone
by any one anywhere. Those young men
were wonders particularly when they gave
parties. Colonel Downey, Colonel Donnel-
lan, Mr. Ora Haley, Mr. Charles Wagner,
and Judge Brown were the moving spirits.
Social life in Laramie as I knew it was of
high and lofty character in those early days
and my remembrances of it all are most de-
lightful and happy.
In August of 1870 mv father decided that
we had better remain -1 year at least and
occpuy a new house the Railroad Company
had built for him if he desired it, or in other
words could persuade his family to remain.
The house was a commodious one painted
white. It is still standing where it was built
on the north side of Fremont and Second
street.
When we were finally settled in our house
we were very comfortable and most of us
happy. I wanted a piano very much. The
story of how I got it is to me very interest-
ing and I think worth relating. A merchant
in Laramie saw an advertisement in a New
York paper of what he thought were toy
pianos selling at nine dollars and seventy-
five cents. He (good friend of mine) sent
for two to be sent immediately by express.
The firm sent one but advised having the
other one shipped by freight. The one that
came by express instead of being nine dollars
and seventy-five cents was nine hundred and
seventy-five dollars with express charges. My
father bought the instrument for seven hun-
dred dollars. I knew nothing about it until
one day I came home from a visit I had
been sent to make and found a beautiful
piano in our home. My joy knew no bounds,
it was to me almost a miracle.
When Mr. Sidney Dillon who was an old
friend of my father's became president of
the Union Pacific Railroad he persuaded fa-
ther to come with him and help him in some
plans he had for the reconstruction of the
road. Father had suffered a serious break-
down in health during the Civil War and a
change had been recommended for him by
our dear old family physician, Dr. Reeves
Jackson, (who by the way is the Doctor
Mark Twain in his "Innocents Abroad"
writes of so humorously) so he with Mr.
Dillon recommended the high mountain
country as the very best possible change that
could be made. Father liked the idea of go-
ing west so in a very short time he was off
for what became his abiding place for sev-
eral years.
Here he regained his health and was very
happy particularly after he became the owner
of a ranch and cattle. Mr. J. J. Albright,
an old time friend of father's from Scranton,
Pennsylvania, became his partner in the
cattle business. Mr. Harry Albright, his son,
came out with his charming family to "ssist
father. Together they had a very successful
and pleasant experience, but the cold winters
and exposure told on father's health again
and he was obliged to seek the more con-
genial climate of California.
If this simple story of mine will interest
the readers of the Historical Bulletin I am
very happy in having told it for them as
well as for my grandchildren, for whom it
was originallv intended.
IN RETROSPECT
I came to Cheyenne in November, 1873.
My health was very poor and my mother
had to take me out of school and our family
physician said, I had to be sent to another
climate and mother said, the only place she
could send me, was Cheyenne, Wyoming;
as she had a sister living there. Cheyenne
was then a town of two or three thousand
inhabitants and it was called the "Magic City
of the Plains," as it was started in the sum-
mer of 1867 and my Uncle M. E. Post came
then, with the Union Pacific Railroad and
my Aunt Mrs. Post came in the spring of
1868. A house was built and ready for her
to go into, where the Stockgrowers Bank
now stands, on 17th and Hill streets, now
Capitol Avenue. Mr. Post had a book store
when I first came and later on was in the
sheep and banking business and was delegate
to Congress from 1881 to 1885. He now
lives in Los Angeles, California. Mrs. Post
was prominent in the work of the city and
when the Second Legislature assembled, De-
cember, 1871, she and my mother, Mrs. A.
P. Kilborune, who was visiting here at that
time went to Governor Campbell (first gov-
;rnor of Wyoming Territory) and asked him
:o veto the bill, for the repeal of Woman
Suffrage, which came up at that time and he
iid so and we have had Woman Suffrage
since 1869. Wc are the first Territory and
State to have Universal Suffrage, in the
United States or perhaps in the world. Chey-
itne was a gay little town, when I came
lere and I enjoyed it very much. We used
to have our best parties in the Railroad
House, that burned down in 1885 I think
1 was. I do not remember what we wore
in those days, only in one case. In 1876,
ve had a party in the Railroad House, (I
think it was) and Lulu David (now Mrs. J.
Mi. Carey) had just come here and she wore
i black silk skirt, trimmed with white tarlatan
flounces and a white satin waist, a little low
necked and elbow sleeves and I also wore
i black silk skirt, trimmed with yellow tar-
latan flounces and a yellow satin waist, a
ittle low-necked and elbow sleeves. I do not
:hink we wore hoop skirts or bustles at that
time as we did in 1873 and 1874. The styles
in skirts in 1876 were getting to be very
:lose, especially about the hips, a pull back,
is they were called later on.
The Pleasant Hours Club, was always held,
n the Recreation Hall, that stood on the
:orner of 18th and Eddy Street (now Pio
teer^- and on the other corner, where the
Federal building now stands, 18th and Fer-
guson (now Carey) was the old Episcopal
Church and Rectory. We did roller skat-
ng in Recreation Hall, as well as dancing.
[n the fall of 1875, my cousin Birdie Parker
(now Mrs. Wastell) of Port Huron, Mich-
igan, came to visit our Aunt Mrs. Post in
Cheyenne. So we were together for a year
md had such good times. The Inter-Ocean
Hotel was opened with a dance ' the sum-
mer of 1875. It was on the corner of 16th
ind Hill Streets (now Capitol and where
Harry Hynd's block now stands.)
We had only one school, when I came
here, the old part of what now is called the
Central school. Some of the older people
ire still here, that were here in 1873. Among
those I remember are Judge J. M. Carey,
Senator F. E. Warren, Mrs. Henry Conway,
Mrs. H. V. Glafcke, Mrs. H. H. Ellis, Mrs.
Wm. Myers, Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Durbin,
Mrs. Helpenstine, Mrs. Alice Bainum, Mrs.
Ketchem, Mr. and Mrs. J. J. Underwood,
Larry Bresnahan and Timothy Dyer. There
was only one tree, when I came here and
that was in front of H. V. Glafcke's resi-
dence, corner of 17th and Dodge Street (now
Warren) and where Senator Warren lived
for so many years but the house was built
by H. V. Glafcke. My health became much
better in this higher altitude and I stayed
here until December, 1876, when I went back
to Lexington, Michigan, where I was born.
In the meantime I became engaged to Mr.
A. J. Parshall. He came to Cheyenne from
Ann Arbor, Michigan, in 1872. He was a
graduate of the University of Michigan in
Civil Engineering and went into the Surveyor
General's office as draftsman and later on a
Chief Clerk, under Dr. Silas A. Reed but
after E. C. David became Surveyor General,
in 1876 Mr. Parshall lost his position and
went to Custer City, Dakota Territory, dur-
ing the gold excitement and later on to Dead-
wood, D. T., where he was in the First Na-
tional Bank as Collector and afterwards, as
Assistant Cashier.
Mother and I came to Cheyenne, the first
of December, 1879, and Mr. Parshall and I
were married December 17th, 1879, in the
old Congregational Church, on the same site
where it now stands, by Rev. C. M. Sanders.
Miss Rosepha Pratt and Mr. John Harring-
ton were bridesmaid and groomsman. We
had a reception at Air. and Mrs. M. E.
Post's of seventy-five guests, at eight o'clock
in the evening. Champagne flowed freely,
with other appetizing refreshments. We
stayed in Cheyenne, until the afternoon of
the 19th, when we took the train for Sidney,
Nebraska, to take the stage the next morn-
ing for Deadwood, Dakota Territory, where
we were to live. The evening we were mar-
ried, it was beautiful and a lovely moon but
when we started from Sidney, on the 20th,
it was cold and cloudy and that night, it was
20 degrees below zero and kept that cold the
entire trip. We reached Deadwood Christ-
mas eve. We traveled daytimes and part
of the nights, when the moon was up and
we slept in barns or anywhere we happened
to be, as we took blankets and pillows. It
was a terribly cold trip and we were in luck,
to get through alive. In May, 1882, I thought
I would go back to Michigan to visit my
mother, who was there then and other rela-
tives. My daughter (now Mrs. C. J. Ohn-
haus) being a baby it was a very hard trip.
There were two men in the stage with me
and not knowing any better, I said I had
only paid my fare to Sidney, Nebraska. I
had on my diamond engagement ring and a
watch with a long gold chain around my
neck. We got to Rapid City, Dakota Terri-
tory, for supper and these two men disap-
peared and so there was no one in the stage
with me when we left. When we had been
on our way about one hour and it was quite
dark some men cried "halt" and the driver
being new to his business (as the stages had
been held up quite often by-road agents and
they always halted when told to) went on
and then they shot twice, one bullet going
through the stage and the other through a
man's hat that sat with the driver but we
got away and so I saved my ring, watch
and $100.00 in money. I have always thought
that it was those two men that were in the
stage with me when we started.
When we got to Sidney, Nebraska, after
three days and two nights on the road we
pulled up at the hotel where the stage al-
ways stopped and being dead tired I had my
supper and went right to bed. I was awak-
ened in the night by a man drinking out of
my pitcher but I wTas in such a tired state
chat I must have fallen asleep again for when
I looked up he was standing right over me
and then I jumped right over the foot-board
and left my daughter in bed and went down
to the office, where a man (likely the clerk)
was sleeping and told him there was a man
in my room and no keys to the doors, as
there were two doors, one opening into an-
other room (think the man came out of that
room) I told the clerk, he would have to
bring his bed upstairs and sleep outside my
door, which he did. The next morning, I
took the train for Michigan. My return trip
to Deadwood was uneventful.
We came to Cheyenne to live in May,
1883. Mr. Parshall had accepted a position
in the Banking House of Stebbins Post and
Company as assistant cashier and afterwards
became cashier. After the bank's failure in
October, 1887, my husband and F. E. War-
ren were appointed assignees for the estate
and when that was settled up, Mr. Parshall
had a great many offices, the last one being
State Engineer under Governor J. M. Carey.
Mr. Parshall discovered the Pathfinder Dam
site and the site for the present water sys-
tem of Cheyenne. He was also a prominent
Mason and as Knights Templar, was at one
time Grand Commander of the State and at
his death was Grand Recorder and had been
for many years. He was also a 32 degree
Mason and a Shriner and was buried with
Knight Templar honors.
We lived in different places the first year
and in 1884 we took one of "Maple Ter-
races," the one next to the Presbyterian
Church, on 18th street. They were just com-
pleted and were occupied by very nice peo-
ple. We paid $55.00 per month, which was
a great price in those days. We stayed there
until July, 1887, when we built the house,
I now occupy, 2102 Warren avenue. My
husband passed away in November, 1919. I
have seen a great many changes in all these
years, as Cheyenne has grown to be quite
ANNIE K. PARSHALL.
Marfa, Texas, October 8th, 1923.
The State Historian,
Cheyenne, Wyoming.
Madam: —
My friend, E. A. Brininstool of Los An-
geles, has sent me a little circular issued by
your society, containing an article by Phillip
Ashton Rollins, in which he scores the film
companies for libeling the old pioneer by
screen portrayals which do not at all con-
vey to the public the "real articles." As an
old tinier of the Texas Frontier, and an ex-
Texas Ranger of six years' service, and hav-
ng passed through the pioneer stage, and
engaged in many battles with wild Indians
and still wilder white men, I hasten to en-
dorse every word Mr. Rollins says. The film
companies are daily givii - to the public al-
leged truthful accounts of the pioneer times
which come ven' very far from a true repre-
sentation of what the real Western pioneer
was like. Having been a cowboy in my
younger days here in the Lone Star State,
and knowing range life in its every form, I
must say that the real, old time cowpuncher
came very far from being the rowdy, tough,
killer and all around "bad man" which the
screen people would have us idolize, and it is
a shame and a disgrace to the American 'peo-
ple tha tthese screen representations of cow-
boy life do not come at least somewhere
near the truth.
I do not believe there ever was in any
section of the country a more chivalrous,
knightly and gentlemanly set of men tham
the average old time cowboy was. True, he
was sometimes inclined to be a bit hilarieus
when he struck a town, but who can blame
him for wanting to "let off steam" a little af-
ter the long, weary, dreary weeks on the cat-
tle trail, with little rest, nothing to break the
monotony and all sorts of weather to con-
tend with? But in spite of that, the cowboy
was never known to insult a lady, and any
old pioneer woman who has lived the frontier
life will tell you that she would rather trust
her own daughter in the company of any
of her husband's cowboys than with other
men who lived in cities and went under the
name of "gentleman."
The pioneer was not "out for gore." He
did not carry a rifle and six shooter from
choice, but from necessity. He was out to
assist in civilizing a new country, and only
too glad for the day to arrive when he could
let the rifle rust in the brackets and follow
the plow and turn furrows which would
bring the golden erain into his storehouse.
If the history of the West is to be left to
these film folks to portray to the rising gen-
erations, they will certainly "make a mess
of it." Let these screen stars first read and
study the lives of the men who made the
West before they picture them in the false
light which they are now doing.
As an old timer, plainsman, and a Western
man who has passed practically all my life
on the frontier, I would like to hear from
other men as to what their opinion is of
these so-called "Western pictures," and how
close to the truth they think the 1923 cow-
puncher — God help him! — comes to pictur-
ing the West that was. Let's help "put the
kibosh" on all this Western slush which de-
picts us old-timers as being nothing but gun-
fighters and ready to "have a man for break-
fast every morning."
Very truly yours,
(Signed) J. B. GILLETT.
Los Angeles, California.
October 18th, 1923.
Mrs. Cyrus Beard, State Historian,
Cheyenne, Wyoming.
Dear Madam:
I have received from your society a small
pamphlet called "Quarterly Bulletin," where-
in is printed a letter from Phillip Ashton Rol-
lins in which he denounces — and rightly —
the moving picture companies for their
swash-buckling presentations of the old pio-
neer.
It is high time something was done about
this base libel on the old pioneer. There is
now being shown in various cities of the U.
S. a film depicting alleged truthful represen-
tation of the pioneer days, which, the com-
pany says is "historically correct." In this
film is a character supposed to represent Jim
Bridger, the grandest old plainsman that
ever wore a moccasin or followed a trail.
This film depicts Bridger as a drunken, dis-
solute, worthless, sodden old bum of the
worst sort, who can do nothing — nor even
collect his thoughts — unless he first gets
iway with about a gallon of whisky. It is
;n outrageous libel on the character of this
jrand old pioneer and plainsman, and the
historians of the country, as well as all lov-
;rs of HISTORICALLY CORRECT fea-
tures of the West, should denounce this film
in no small terms. Jim Bridger doubtless
liked his liquor in a moderate degree, like
many old plainsmen of his day, but he was
far from being a whiskey-soaked old bum
such as this film depicts him. Further, he
is represented as having three Indian wives
at the same time. This is also an infamous
libel, as Bridger never had but one wife at
a time. He married into three different In-
dian tribes, but he never had more than one
wife at a time. All his children were given
good educations at St. Louis convents.
In this film which is alleged to be so "his-
torically correct," are many scenes which
are impossible — so many old timers who are
in a position to know have told me. For
instance, the corraling of a long wagon train
at night in the (supposedly) Indian country,
way down at the bottom of a blind canyon,
surrounded on all sides by towering cliffs,
from which vantage point Indians attack the
train, shooting down upon the defenseless
"pioneers" who are completely at their mercy.
I..-dci, not believe that any old wagon train
captain ever would corral a train in any such
idiotic position in the Indian country, when
high .ground would be the proper place for
him to seek if expecting to be attacked by
Indians. At no point in this film are any
guards stationed to prevent a night surprise,
but the emigrants nightly gather around huge
bonfires and sing, dance and have a high
old time — a likely situation in an Indian coun-
try!
The attack on the wagon train does not
seem to me to be correctly presented. Did
any old timer ever see or hear of Indians
making an attack on a wagon train by try-
ing to conceal themselves behind brush held
before them as they advance to the attack?
I put this in the form of a question. In the
part where Jim Bridger is supposed to be
shown, the film company ring in the old
story about Mike Fink the old trapper who
developed a fondness for shooting a cup of
whisky off the head of his trapper friend,
portraying this as if Bridger did it in a
drunken carousal. This incident is related
in detail in Chittenden's "History of the Am-
erican Fur Trade," from which columns the
film company doubtless got this story.
Bridger never did this foolish stunt, in spite
of the attempt of the film people to make the
American public believe that he did.
There are a great many other features in
this film which are a long ways from being
"historically correct," if what men tell me
who have "been there" can be relied upon.
Many old pioneers who have seen it were
greatly disgusted with it from that point of
view.
But this libel on the character of Jim
Bridger should be resented by those who are.
familiar with Bridger's life history. A man
on whom the United States Government de-
pended as a guide and scout for many of its
most important military expeditions; who
was looked up to and highly respected by
every old time military officer and army man;
whose word was absolute on what he knew
and d:c\ not know, and who was respected
and looked up to with almost reverence by
the Indians themselves — surely, no drunken
sodden old whisky-drinker could rise to this
important position nor gain such wide popu-
larity and renown! No plainsman was held
in higher esteem by his associates than old
Jim Bridger, the king, the dean of all pio-
neer plainsmen, scouts, trappers and guides.
Let us hear from others on this matter.
Very truly yours,
(Signed) E. A. BRININSTOOL.
Columbus, Ind., June 21, 1898.
Dear Sir:
Thought would write few lines about Cas-
per City Wyo. 1866 I helped to build Fort
Casper, Wyoming A. Co. 18 U. S. Infantry
and now Casper has a railroad 1866 the sol-
diers thought never would be a town build
many Indians around their them days we cut
timber in Casper mountains log trains were
guarded by soldiers keep Indians from tak-
ing log trains, we marched from Fort Lea-
venwort Kd. 1865 to Wyoming would like
a picture of Casper City been also at Forts
Fetterman, Reno, Philip Kearny northern
Wyoming a great deal hardships away back
lost part of 18 U. S. Infantry Dec 1866 mas-
sacre Ft. Philip Kearney Wyoming I run
across a Casper Wyo paper here seen your
name being first settler of Casper would like
to see Wyo if money was more plentiful get
pay for army disability not enough to make
trip will send stamp for reply maybe a copy
of paper how largs is Casper 1866 about
railroad running west of Casper in 1866 was
a lonesome place hope for reply about popu-
lation and oil wells Just got back from Ohio,
Yours truly,
ERNEST POPE,
18 U. S. Infantry.
At Fort Casper, Wyo., 1866.
TAKEN FROM DENVER
ROCKY MOUNTAIN HERALD
November 8, 1879. The sixth Legislative
Assembly Wyoming was convened at Chey-
enne on the 4th. N. F. Myrick was elected
speaker of the House and Henry Garbaniti
president of the Senate.
November 15th, 1879. The 67ers of Chey-
enne have formed a society. The Wyoming
Legislature has passed a memorial request-
ing President Hayes to appoint W. W. Cor-
lett Chief Justice of that Territory.
CORRECTION
Page seven, column two of September 1923
Bulletin, Dodge Home should read Dodge
House.
358
58
59
EXPENSE ACCOUNT OF FORT FETTERMAN, WYOMING
December 23rd, 1875
Sundries
James Fielding
47 M. Lynch
27 Dr. Gibson
56 Dan Griffin (order by Fielding)
To Mdse.
Dks & Cig
Lemon Extract
2 lbs. Raisins
2 lbs. Currants
10 lbs. Apples
4 Bottles Ale
1 Qt. Brandy
y2 lb. Citron
9 drinks
1 can F Oysters
1 lb. candy
Toy Face
100 lbs. flour
5 lbs. coffee
8 lbs. sugar G. C.
1 lb. Tea
2 lbs. Currants
1 pr Boots
4 boxes dope
Postage Stamps
1.75
.50
1.00
.50
2.00
4.00
2.00
.40
2.25
1.00
.50
.25
7.50
2.00
2.00
2.00
.50
7.00
1.60
.10
72.35
12.15
3.25
.75
22.70
359 Mrs. McFarland
Jas. Campbell
D. K. Lord
4 lbs. Candy
2.00
4 lbs. Currants
1.00
3.00
Drinks
2.75
Tobacco
5.00
25 lbs. Beans
6.25
14 lbs. Sugar
3.50
2 sacks Salt
1.00
Pepper
.25
Tobacco
1.25
Sugar
1.00
Coffee
1.00
Syrup
4.00
Matches
.25
23.50
359 Co. I 4th Inf.
34 W. E. Hathaway
45 Major Ferris
24 C. Larson
3 lbs. Raisins
3 lbs. Currants
Dks & Cigars
1 face C oil
Drk
1.50
.75
2.25
.75
1.00
.25
72.35 72.35
SURVEY 1923
The present State Historian entered upon
the duties of the Department May 1, 1923,
and in the following July, Volume 1, Num-
ber 1, of the Historical Quarterly was issued.
It is designed to make this publication a per-
manent feature of the Department. At pres-
ent the work of organizing Historical Socie-
ties is going on throughout the State as set
forth in the following Constitution:
ORGANIZATION OF STATE AND LO-
CAL HISTORICAL SOCIETIES
The following Constitution and By-Laws
have been drawn up by the State Historian
and approved by the State Historical Board
(See Session Laws 1921, Chapter 96, Sec-
tion 7).
Constitution
ARTICLE I
Name
This society shall be known as the Wyo-
ming State Historical Society.
ARTICLE II
Object
The object of this society shall be to collect
all possible data on the early settlements,
explorations, Indian occupancy and Overland
travel in Wyoming and adjacent States. To
procure from pioneers the narrative of their
pioneer life in Wyoming; of the progress and i
development, natural resources, industries
and growth of settlements. To procure the
history of military forts and camps in Wyo-
ming and adjacent States; and to disseminate
historical information through the publica-
tions of the society.
ARTICLE III
Membership
Membership in the Wyoming State His-
torical Society shall be three classes, namely:
Active Annual,
Life,
Contributing.
ARTICLE IV
Dues
Active Annual — $1.00 per year.
ife — $50.00 paid at one time, entitles the
mbers to all privileges of Active Annual,
hout further dues.
Contributing — Newspapers and periodicals
t furnish their publications for one year
.11 receive all the publications of the so-
ty without any dues during the time of
ltribution.
Phe payment of dues in advance entitles
members to receive all the publications
the Society, and there shall be no further
essments.
ARTICLE V
Local Historical Societies
_,ocal Historical Societies shall be organ-
d in each county — as a branch of the State
janization — but such societies will have
ir own Constitution and By-Laws and
•vide for their own officers.
ARTICLE VI
Government
rhe Advisory Board and the State His-
iaj^ shall be the governing board of this
:ietyrfor the year of 1924.
By-Laws
ARTICLE I
Office
The office of the State Historical Society
11 be the office of the State Historian in
Capitol Building at Cheyenne, Wyoming.
ARTICLE II
Amendments
Kt the expiration of one year this Consti-
ion and the By-Laws shall be amended
revised.
ocal Pioneer Societies throughout the
ite are re-organizing and new societies are
ng formed. The State Historian takes
3 opportunity to thank the pioneers of this
ite and others for their interest in, and
ir co-operation with this Department of
State. Many fine manuscripts have been
ltributed and a few letters of great his-
ic value, as well as books on the early
tory of the West in general and Wyo-
ig in particular.
Accessions
MUSEUM
?rom January 1, 1923, to April 30, 1923
Vlr. W. F. Hooker, map of Pioneer Way,
ture of "Three Old Plainsmen."
ivlr. J. D. Woodruff, picture of first dwell-
house in Big Horn Basin.
Vlr. H. P. Haslam, two pictures.
Vlr. Albert Ekdall, fire department certifi-
e.
Vlr. F. J. Wilder, old newspapers dated
56.
Mr. I. S. Bartlett, autograph manuscript,
two miscellaneous papers.
Dr. T. G. Maghee, five photographs and
description of surgical operation performed
in 1886 by Dr. Maghee.
Mr. J. C. Thompsno, Jr., photographs of
women officials of Jackson, Wyoming.
Mr. F. Gleason, three pictures.
Senator and Mrs. Kendrick, two pictures
(portraits of selves).
Mr. Gautschi, Spanish Diggins (Collections
from).
Mr. A. S. Roach, Colt revolver (taken from
Carlisle, train robber).
Mr. A. H. Cox, compass (taken from air
plane wrecked in Cheyenne).
Mr. John H. Gordon, badge and medals.
Mr. Henry Matt, hunting and skinning
knife.
Mrs. Park Smith, Indian relics.
Mr. James A. Merna, 32 calibre pistol.
Mr. William Dubois, picture of Robert
Morris.
Mr. Frank DeCastro, photo of F. A. Watt,
driver of stage coach in 1878-79.
MUSEUM
From May 1, 1923, to December .31, 1923
Miss Minta Anderson, fossil shells from
near LaBarge, Wyoming.
Mr. W. P. Ames, Indian axe (stone), root
of tree.
Mr. Mark Chapman, Colt revlover manu-
factured in 1850.
Mr. B. B. David, fluting iron and tongs
(from Guiterman estate).
Mrs. Thomas Gordon, butter print bearing
date of 1807.
William Hartzell, knife made from bullets
used in World War.
Dr. and Mrs. W. A. Wyman, colonial foot-
warmer more than 100 years old, one bob-
cat, one Swan killed on Sloan lake 1880,
three small birds.
Mr. Ed. Myers, arrow heads, collection
from Spanish Diggings (photo views).
Mr. Vance Lucas, cocoanut in shell, pieces
of Indian pottery Florida).
State Labor Commissioner Frank Clark,
envelope from first air-mail service.
Mr. Andy Stewart, hunting knife, old
watch and key (loaned).
Mr. Al Heaton, carved briar pipe (1861),
made from briar on James river, Virginia.
Unknown, peasant necklace, brass harness
disk, velvet bag, shoe buckle, chain for spur,
all over one hundred years old.
George Clark, three one-cent pieces of
United States mone- dated 1853, two Er,T-
lish six pence, 1883 (loaned).
Mr. D. G. Thomas, pictures of documents
of 1824.
Mrs. Ella Walters, pictures on Names Hill,
Wyoming.
Mr. Ernest Logan, picture of Colonel Tor-
rev.
Mrs. G. W. Plummer, picture of first train
into Encampment, Wyoming.
Unknown, two pictures of three men.
Mr. Luther Freeman, picture of Ft. Phil
Kearney, 1866, garrisoned by 18th infantry,
picture of Ft. Laramie, 1885, garrisoned by
7th infantry, General John J. Gibbon, com-
manding.
Secretary of State F. E. Lucas, picture of
ex-President Harding, picture of Red Angus.
Mr. A. J. Gereke, two early pictures of
State Capitol Building.
Mr. L. G. Cristobal, 104 official pictures of
air planes, air fields, etc. (loaned).
Mr. John Mathes, two ox shoes picked up
on '49 trail, greenbacks, 3, 5 and 50 cents
used during the Civil War.
HISTORICAL DEPARTMENT: BOOKS
. From May 1, 1923, to December 31, 1923
Mr. E. L. C. Schneider, an account book
of Ft. Fetterman, 1875.
Mrs. J. C. Van Dyke, two volumes Teepee
Books.
Mrs. Louella Moore, nine old Brand Books.
Mr. Phillip A. Rollins, Trail Drivers of
Texas, two volumes.
Captain A. H. Cook, Fifty Years on the
Old Frontier.
Mrs. H. R. Wharton, Iowa Official Regis-
ter, 1923-24.
Rev. J. C. Blackman, Walker's Dictionary
(3rd edition), 1807, Daboll's Schoolmaster's
Assistant, 1824.
Captain H. B. Cassidy, Historical Regis-
ter and Dictionary of U. S. Army, 1789-
1903, Vol. 2 (Heitman).
Mr. Ernest Logan, Hands Up.
Mrs. Cvrus Beard, Who's Who in Amer-
ica, Vol. 4 (1906-1907).
Purchased by Historical Department:
Journal of John Work.
Sitting Bull (Life of).
First Transcontinental Railroad.
Indian Wars.
Exploration of Colorado River.
PAMPHLETS
Mr. Norman King, Report for 1923 of the
C. M. T. C.
Dr. Hebard, Bozeman Trail (poem by
Lillian L. Van Burgh).
E. Richard Shipp, Rangeland Melodies.
Miss Alice Smith, Stockmen's Letters.
Mr. H. E. Crain, Stockmen's Lette.'s.
Mr. Ernest Logan, seven pamphle'.s, re-
ports, etc.
Mrs. Cyrus Beard, John Marshall.
Air. B. B. David, 55 pamphlets, programs,
manuscripts, etc., from Guiterman estate.
ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPTS
Bishop McGovern.
E. Richard Shipp.
Roy C. Smith.
Mr. J. H. Gordon.
Mrs. A. J. Parshall.
Mrs. M. C. Brown.
Mr. Clarence Holden.
Mrs. Bessie Kirkpatrick.
D. G. Thomas.
Several letters.
MISCELLANEOUS
McMurty Paint Company, by J. J. Meltz
two plate glass desk tops.
Dr. G. R. Hebard, programs, clippings
etc.
Mr. Frank Lusk, four statehood papers
Mr. Ed. Myers, one old paper.
Mr. Thomas Durbin, poll book, special
election in city of Cheyenne, 2nd Ward pre-
cinct, March 17, 1885, to elect mayor caused
by resignation of F. E. Warren.
Poll book, 3rd Ward precinct, city of Chey-
enne, Jan. 11, 1887.
High School commencement program,
1881.
Johnson County Historical Society, copy
for use of the papers of their Historical So-;
ciety.
:..,
NECROLOGY
Men and women whose fine character and
outstanding personality have made for the*
history and progress of our State have dur-
ing the year 1923 "crossed the bar." Promi-i
nent among these pioneers, all who came
previous to 1880 appears the names:
Mrs. Almeda Castle, 1867.
Miss Margaret Whitebread, 1867.
Ben O'Connel, early 70.
Tim Kinney, 1870.
William Hildreth, oldest Elk in World
Airs. Wm. Guiterman, 1870.
Andy Ryan, 1867.
Albert Andrews, 1870.
Seth K. Sharpless, 1868.
Airs. Elizabeth Wilson, born near Rawlins,
Alarch 12th, 1843.
John Luman, 1859.
Airs. Agnes Tait, 1876.
Miss Mae Douglas, 1872.
Wm. T. Schaffer, 1873.
Robert AlcQueen, 1876.
Angus J. McDonald, 1868.
William A. Mills, 1869.
Mrs. Janet Smith, 1861.
In September, 1923, there passed away in
Washington, D. C, Airs. J. A. Campbell
widow of the first territorial governor of
Wyoming. Airs. Campbell was blessed with
a very large circle of friends both in public
and private life. Wyoming mourns the loss
of this splendid woman.
yvM-4. C^vt-<^^
(fO^< — e?_^7 — ^
HISTORICAL DEPAk i M I
QUARTERLY BULLETIN
Vol. 1
Cheyenne, April 15, 1924
No. 4
REMINISCENCES OF OLD FORT
WASHAKIE
By Col. Homer W. Wheeler, U. S. A.
(Retired)
Author of "The Frontier Trail"
, I was stationed at Fort Washakie in 1878-
9-80. The post was located on ^the Little
Wind River, Shoshone Reservation, 160 miles
from the railroad. I remained there until
June, 1880. In 1869, Camp Auger, a sub-
post of Ft. Bridger, was established on the
present site of Lander. Subsequently it was
made a separate post and named Camp
Brown. It was deemed advisable to re-
locate the post on Little Wind river, Sho-
srfOi^e reservation, later named Fort Wash-
akie for Chief Washakie. The nearest rail-
road point was Green River.
While stationed there I was the quarter-
master, commissary, ordnance officer, post
treasury officer and in command of my troop
part of the time. I partially rebuilt the post,
erecting a large storehouse, guardhouse, sta-
bles and an administration building, which
included an officers' club room — which the
enlisted men could also enjoy — bowling al-
ley and a en .pel, which was provided 'with
a stage for amusements. Most of this work
was done by soldier labor. The men went
into the mountains and felled the trees and
hauled the logs to the sawmill, which was
provided with a planing and shingle mill. I
employed a citizen sawyer and a carpenter.
These were all the civilians employed, save
the blacksmith and a few teamsters.
While I was stationed at Fort Washakie
I purchased and set out a hundred trees
iround the parade ground. This tree trans-
action was not looked upon by the Govern-
ment in a kindly spirit, and I was directed
'not to do it again." I obeyed, but just the
same I got the trees. Today they have
grown to be immense fine trees, and doubt-
less if some one went to work and cut them
down, there would be as big a hullabaloo
raised as there was when I set them out.
The Shoshone Agency was only a short
distance from the post. This tribe numbered
ibout 2,000 souls. There were about 1,200
Arapahoes on this reservation. They came
from the Red Cloud agency, Nebraska, after
the celebrated winter campaign against Sit-
ting Bull in 1876-77.
Strictly speaking, the reservation belonged
anly to the Shoshones. Their head chief was
Washakie, a man with a keen mind, and a
loyal friend of the Government. The Sho-
shones consented that the Arapahoes should
live on their reservation, at the request of
the Indian Department.
I took great interest in these Indians. They
called me "the little chief with the scar on his
face." While at the post I installed the first
irrigation ditch for the Arapahoes. While
I was in the Philippines, Gen. Jesse M. Lee
told me that the Indians had informed him
(when he was at Fort Washakie investigat-
ing some of the Indian grievances) that I
was the one who surveyed and showed them
how to make the ditch. This was their first
attempt at farming, and if the Government
had taken the same interest in these Indians
as I did, they would now be self-sustaining,
instead of wards.
One of my duties was the inspection of all
the_ fresh beef and cattle which were issued.
This issue took place every Saturday morn-
ing, at which time I went over to the agency,
superintended the weighing of the meat is-
sued, and had to certify to the weight and
see that it was up to the standard which the
contract demanded. This certificate was sent
to _ the Indian Department at Washington.
I inspected and received for these Indians
upwards of 3,000 head of stock cattle, which
was divided among the various families.
While I was riding around the reservation
one day I happened to pass by a thicket. I
observed an Indian therein branding two
or three calves. I asked him what he was
doing there. Pointing to the brand he laugh-
ingly answered, "Oh, me branding calf, all
same white man." It looked to me very
much as if he were branding mavericks.
There were several large herds grazing on
the reservation at that time.
While I -was at Fort Washakie I took the
Indian sweat baths just as the Indians did.
The sweat house was a small bower, budt
by sticking the ends of sharpened willow
'ranches in the ground, bending them over
and throwing buffalo hides over them. This
made a "bath house" eight or ten feet long
and about six feet wide, although the height
was such that a person sitting down would
nearly touch his head against the covering.
In the center of this sweat-lodge a hole was
dug in the ground, in which stones were
placed which had been previously heated
very hot. The selection of these stones was
done with great care, being as nearly' round
as possible, and never were again used for
this purpose. New stones were chosen for
all subsequent baths.
One time during the month of January,
Lieut. Cummings and myself decided we
would begin taking these Indian sweat baths.
Although there was snow on the ground,
(Copyright applied for. Copying privileges will be
granted by the State Historian)
QUARTERLY BULLETIN
I shed by the Wyoming State Historical
Departn:-.
State Historical Board
Governor — William B. Ross
Sta1 - — F. E. Lucas
State Librarian — Flo La Chapelle
Historian — Mrs. Cyrus Beard
i B :ard
Ad%dsory Board
Rt Rev. P. A. McGovern, Cheyenne
Dr. Grace R. Hebard. Laramie
Mr. P. W. Jenkins, Cora
Mrs.1 E SI ridan
Mr. R. D. Hawley. Douglas
- Margery Ross. C
Mrs. E. T. Raymond. Xewcastle
Mr. E. H. Fourt. Lander
C : -tents
Reminiscences of Old Fort Washakie
Homer W. Wheeler. U. S. A.. Retired
.1 r riace Raymond Hebard
Pers :al Histr:; John H. Gordon
Pope Letter Coutant Xotes
Early Days in the West__ _T. H. McGee
Notes from Surveyor rxeneral's Office
that did not deter us. Dry grass was first
placed within the lodge for us to sit on. We
then stripped and went inside with four or
the I lians the medicine man coming
in last. Then the hot s::::es were passed
in on a forked stick, and placed in the hole
i the lodge. Next, a bucket
:" water - - - i in. The medicine man
now placed on the hot stones some -
gras ich emitted a most fragrant odor.
He then commenced singing incantations.
Finally, taking a cup of water from the
filled his mouth and commenced
ng the hot stones The lodge was soon
filled with a dense steam, making it very
warm. It was not very long before the
thermometer which we had carried inside
showed a temper tore :f 120 degrees. In
fact, it soon became so exceedingly hot that
we had to put our faces down into the grass
in order to breathe a: all. We remained in
the lodge until we were fairly dripping -with
we threw buffalo robes
irseli left the lodge and ran
down te the Little Wind river, about fifty
yards distant, and jumped in. We did not
remain in that icy water very Jong, of course,
:;>n was pleasant. We then
waded out. went inside a tepee and thorough-
t .bed ourselves down after which we
experienced a most decided glow and felt
"as fine as a fiddle."
One day the post surgeon decided that he,
too, wanted to try an Indian sweat-bath,
so he went down to the Arapahoe camp with
us. Before we entered the lodge, we told
hat, come what might, he must keep
ad up. We had been in the lodge but
a short time before the surgeon commenced
to perspire very freely. He told us he could
not stand that heat much longer. Cummings
and I had our faces down in the grass, where
we were standing the heat finely. First one
: d s would bob up, and then the other, ask-
ing the doctor "how he was making out."
He stood it as long as he possibly could,
then made a break for the outer air,
remarking that it was "the hottest d
place he ever was in."
During my stay at the post. Sharp Xose.
the head chief of the Arapahoes, fractured
ugh. The commanding officer sent me
down to tell him that he could come up to
-: ii he chose and go into the hos-
pital, but that his family must not accom-
any him. When I reached the Indian camp
I found the Indian doctors attending Sharp
Xose. They had made a splint by taking
man}- willow twigs the size of a lead pencil
and stringing them in the same way the
Chinese and Japanese do to make their
screens. They had set the leg and wrapped
these willow twigs around it. They then
made a strong tea out of sage, with which
they occasionally spray-ed the injured limb.
This relieved the soreness and inflammation
very much. All this time there were about
a half dozen Indian doctors present, beating
tomtoms and blowing their whistles. The
music was about as confusing and noisy as
Chinese music. Xevertheless. Sharp Xose
eventually recovered, although his injured
leg was about an inch shorter than the other.
The Indian doctors also "cup" for head-
aches and other complaints, by using the
base end of a buffalo horn.
During the spring of 1879, I captured the
roving remnants of the Bannock Indians,
after the cessation of hostilities with that
tribe. There were about 40 men, women
and children, and I had to use some diplo-
macy in taking them, without any loss of
life.
One of the greatest Indian chiefs of mod-
ern times was Washakie, chief of the Sho-
shones. from whom Fort Washakie received
its name. He was born about 1804, and died
at Fort Washakie February 20, 1900. His
father was a Flathead and his mother a
Shoshone. Washakie became chief at the
age of 19 or 20, but did not become distin-
guished or well known until after Gen. Con-
nor's defeat of the Shoshones and Bannocks
on Bear river, Utah, January 29, 1863.
In this fight there were about 300 Indians
engaged. Col. P. C. Connor's command
numbered about the same — all California vol-
unteers of cavalry and infantry — with two
b v itzers. The Indians were strongly en-
trenched in a ravine, and Connor had much
difficulty in getting to them. The obstacles
were finally overcome, and the soldiers killed
all but a few of the Indians who jumped in
r and escaped. Many were killed- in
the stream while attempting to swim across.
Only the women and children were spared.
fhcer and twenty soldiers were killed
and 44 men were wounded.
For this victory over the Indians, Col.
Connor was promoted to a brigadier-gener-
alship. The Mormons sided with the In-
- and gave them aid and encouragement,
; :ng them with food and ammunition
and information of the movements of the
-. The camps. the outcome of
-tions on the Overland Trail and the
Ding ::
this tight, a much larger number of
congregated on Be: but
- much persuasion and
6nally induced many vi the young
rs to withdraw, and he then led them
to Fort Bridger, Utah. From that time,
! was absolutely ch
ailed the "Great Tre
ade with the Shoshone- . I
168. By the terms ::' this treaty,
given the Wind River cc
r a r ::. It tv-
should provide military protection
r the . the country they were
occupy, but for some r as not
i in the treaty. To my knowledge
e Indian Department wanted the sold
moved irom the reservation on several oc-
», but Chief Wash risted npon
feh re _ -ting that they v ere Iris
and that he could rely on their
iendship and protection. Although not act-
l!1; inserted in the treat; if - intended
be a part thereof. In after years
er. this stipulation was canceled by the
rar Departr.
Throughout his life Washakie was the
eaaFast friend ::* the white man, but was
Inost constantly it war against other In-
an tribes — the Sioux, Cheyennes and Ara -
iocs in particular. He was generally
: Pensive, as the tribes mentioned were
uch stronger than his own. It is not
lown that he was ever lefeal tough
times closely tressed and besieged.
Red Cloud and Crazy Horse both a knitted
at Washakie was the greatest general of
on all He t:ok part in the campaign ::
with ^en, Crook, tendering the hitter
ores or bis young -warriors fcr use as
outs with the expedition, and they ren-
red valual le serv x. The; — ere under the
rsonal charge of Tom Cosgrove. as 2 h ief
as toe hit: take a personal part
■
was a great leader and al
itiplete control of his people The tat-
i years :: Iris bfe were stent in the
ijoyment of his people and surroundings.
• an End in :: most excellent char-
ier tad always endeavored to exercise a
>od influence over his people. He was ex-
emely fond of his family and enjoyed the
il lire. A story which is ::ter_ told
t I : . i - tat'he lis wives
it this is an error. K ; rition was
1st kindly. He was dignified, and com-
ECt of all.
Washakie was well known to the early
v and pathfinders, whose :
sought - t C - the -treat hunt-
trapper and guide have been
s favorite. Xo Indian of mountain or plain
IBS - 1 t e : - - rably known.
His remains rest in the - Demetery
ort Washakie, where a monument si
ted by the
bates g evemment.
In the issuing of annuity goods to 1
idians. it was customary to arrange them
in two par-
men with smah
- -.. In the
.'. -
were placed on the c
men in
ter Bead m I whe
:
- -
- - - re obliged to r
pleted. f*he
-
gs and the
not r
■
g their thai
. r i
r : — :r -
it rrtreretee e of a
rse, for all I had to d
i, go to the herd
there and surrender the tick [did
know this at t
After the presentation :
Led me hit: the tenter :I the ring, and from
the opp :
maiden, rrmrmhte ."'-'/ n:;;:: in In-
_; :me I
imrment : tvere .
teeth, nrirty :t forty :: the teeth Dovered
garment, and in those lays they were
valued it from ;I t: ?I each Fhe moc-
is of the maid ' red
- ~: were t : . rcled
- i suvex - i : Jet - Herct stume ■
ve been worth ii: t -_. Her
- ted in such i manner as : greatly
nance iter
As Sht - - EVeral - ;
— ogfa my mind As t was the :nst:nt
int:nr the Indians re
t: give their friend ghters
ght this might t t t led t:
id :t : tmrse I : : nl I not ac
Really. I did r*hey
r up, and she str " trnts to-
ward nte. and I thong
throw them about me is nte I
upon dodged bath, thr:
one of which held
resent for th< iors( icn -
grabbed the stick from my
- - - n •
t : Indians c I bug
At the time I did not understand the
: their mirl t 1 ras told y "Fr
terpretex thai - . -
cases of this kmd to gfve the officer
- - listribution the Uessing : : the I - e
g woman
this blessing
er rms with the -
bands Uf ::t my ring
g
I docc. ::tr hers — sc I got
. - - -
- ■ . I
among them to -
gt hen they reach the :r::er
was a girl who had been sold when she was
a child to another Indian, but she had fallen
in love with a young warrior, and they ran
away together,' returning as man and wife.
One issue day they were going up for ra-
tions, when the Indian who had purchased
the girl, struck the young "warrior-Lochin-
var" with a whip. The youthful groom killed
his assailant on the spot, and then fled to
the mountains with his wife, telling his ene-
mies that if they wanted him to come and
get him. This caused a great commotion
among the different bands of Indians, and
it looked as though there was going to be
serious trouble. The Indians went to the
commanding officer, Major Upham, Fifth
Cavalry, who had great influence over them,
and asked for advice. He suggested that
they send two or three old men, who were
friends of the warrior, out to him and try to
prevail on him to accompany them in to the
post with his wife — not as prisoners! that
the commanding officer would put them into
a room in the guardhouse, and keep them
where they would be safe from their enemies.
The head men would then try to get the
two factions together and see if they could
not settle the matter with the dead man's
relatives without further bloodshed.
One morning about daybreak I was awak-
ened by a noise. Looking out, I saw the
young warrior and his wife surrounded by
about a dozen Indians, who were singing a
war song — a custom of theirs when they ef-
fect a capture. I was officer of the day, and
confined the couple in the guardhouse. They
had a very fine buffalo robe — one of the fin-
est I ever saw — and while in the guardhouse
this young squaw occupied herself in decor-
ating the robe with dyed porcupine quills.
Around the edges were loops about three
inches in length, on which were strung the
cleft hoofs of more than one hundred deer.
Our Indians got together and had a coun-
cil with the relatives of the prisoners, and
the matter was finaaly settled by the friends
of the young warrior presenting ten ponies
to the relatives of the murdered man. When
the young couple were released from the
guardhouse, I again happened to be officer
of the day and released them, whereupon the
squaw made me a present of the decorated
buffalo robe. I was offered $100 for it on
several occasions.
(Signed) HOMER W. WHEELER.
January 22, 1924.
My dear Mrs. Beard: —
In response to your recent request in re-
gard to the "Coutant Notes," I am submit-
ting the following statement:
Mr. George Coutant planned to write a
three volumed History of Wyoming but prior
to his death he had only written and had
published Volume 1 which is still on the
market. This first volume was printed and
bound in Laramie. Ill health and financial
difficulties prevented Mr. Coutant from real-
izing his ambition for a complete and com-
prehensive History of Wyoming and giving
it to the public in three volumes. From
Laramie where for a time Mr. Coutant lived,
and he also lived for a time in Cheyenne, he
moved to the State of Washington where he
died, in the early winter of 1913.
Shortly after his death I corresponded with
his widow asking her if she did not wish to
dispose of any material which her husband
may have collected with the intention of em-
bodying it in future volumes of the History
of Wyoming, stating that I felt that some
one in Wyoming should purchase this valu-
able material of her husband's rather than
some one out of the State who was not par-
ticularly interested in our local history. Af-
ter she named her price I purchased the ma-
terial in January, 1914, when it was sent to
me, which material consisting of a number
of old books on the Northwest about traders
and trappers, Indian fights, and Frontier
days, a small amount of material written and
ready for publication, a large amount of
notes, some almost in the nature of short-
hand, and others more or less extended. One
hundred or more biographies of Wyoming
pioneers and a collection of scores of photo-
graphs of men and women who were in Wyo-
ming during early days were also included.
After keeping this material for a number of
years, hoping that I might be a'ble to find
time enough to write a history of Wyoming,
utilizing Mr. Coutant's material, I decided
that the State Historical Society was the
proper place to have this material safely
housed, in July, 1921, I sold it to the Wyo-
ming Historical Society for what it had cost
me.
This is the material which you now have
in your department and which I feel is the
one best set of material on the early history
of Wyoming taken from personal interviews
that has ever been collected or ever will be
collected. I say ever will be collected be-
cause the majority of those old pioneers who
were interviewed by Mr. Coutant have long
since gone on the Trail of the One Way.
I am very glad to give you this informa-
tion and if I can help in any way let me
know and I shall be very glad to do so.
Verv cordiallv,
(Signed) GRACE RAYMOND HEBARD.
Laramie, Wyoming.
PERSONAL HISTORY
If my father's family Bible is reliable, it's
recorded there I was born on the 17th of
April, 1843, County Antrim, Ireland.
There were nine of the family, seven boys
and two girlsf all grew up to manhood and
womanhood. I was next to the youngest
member of the family, the older members
had to go out to what was called service
with farmers. My father being a common
laborer, whose wage was only seven shillings
a week and provide his own board, this com-
pelled us all to leave home at an early stage
to maintain existence. The little food re-
ceived from the farmers for such service con-
sisted exclusively of potatoes, oatmeal por-
ridge, buttermilk, occasionally the oatmeal
would be made into oat cakes, but no such
a thing as meat or flour bread.
What fine strapping men and women were
produced on such diet that would be called
today meager food, nevertheless they were
stalwarts or the bone and sinew of the Brit-
ish Empire and contributed to build her up
until the sun never sets on her dominions.
But I've digressed. My memory goes back
at this distant day when about five or six
years old, I got a job to herd three or four
pigs for a farmer. For the service, I got
my potatoes, oatmeal and buttermilk. At
this time I cannot refrain to mention the
dreadml condition, especially of the common
people. What I have reference to is called
the Irish famine, caused by a blight on the
potatoes, which was one of the principle
staples of food, especially for the peasantry.
Such a calamity was awful, some dying by
the roadside, with grass in their mouths. At
this date, 1848, the population of the Island
was about 8,000,000. In a few years by star-
vation and immigration it was reduced to
ibout 5,000,000. While the government made
svery effort to alleviate the calamitus con-
ditions, the mortality was enormous. I must
lot omit the services from the United States,
which is always in the forefront where dis-
tress exists.
One bunch of Ireland men from New York
>ut of their own pockets chartered a ship,
oaded it with corn for the starving Irish,
oaded same vessel with people, brought them
:o United States. These remininiscences
:tci,wd my memory. I cannot refrain from
jiving expression to them.
To go back to my swine herding. The old
voman of the household was very kind to
ne and gave me my first lesson in education.
[ can see her now, with her specs on, get
ne between her knees. I held the little
)rimer. She would look over my shoulder
md say A, I would repeat, then B, etc., so
inely I had all the letters of the aphabet.
Ehis manner of life coninued until I was
ibout 10 ye;.rs old, when I hired to a farmer
or six mo. ..as for the sum of 10 shillings
.nd board, the kind of food already described.
. don't think I ever had a shoe on my foot
lititil this age. This manner of life continued
mtil I was 14 years old. I forgot to say that
luring this period when work was slack on
he farm, the man allowed me the privilege
o attend a small country school where I
earned to read words containing three or
our letters, also write a little on a slate with
late pencil, so when mistakes were made
hey could be easily corrected, also in figures
tiade some advancement, reached the rule of
imple division. One example still lingers
n memory, viz., three vessels started to Am-
rica with immigrants 1st vessel, so many
!nd so many, 1st got wrecked so many lost
' by disease, 2nd lost so many. How many
fot safe to America? This is as far as my
chooling went so remained with farmer un-
il I was 14 years of age.
At this time there was a cabinet maker
n the vicinity who made furniture, sold to
Belfast furniture dealer, he asked me how
would like to learn to make funiture, this
agreed to readily so of course my father's
onsent had to be procured. In due time
was indentured for 5^2 years to receive my
ioard and 2 suits of clothes during the above
ieriod. I must add the boss was very lib-
ral with me and Xmas would lay down a
shilling on the bench for me. During the
service the indenture stated I was to serve
my master at his command night and day
so the hours of labor was from 12 to 14
hours a day, or until the boss would say
time to stop. I must add my master was a
grand mechanic so had to do all my work
to a nicety, also he had some schooling and
was as far advanced in numerical figures as
to simple proportions, or what was called
the rule of three, whatever that means.
During my apprenticeship if (space would
permit) many little incidents I would like
to mention. My master (as he was called)
was unmarried so his Aunt kept house, a
clean very tidy body she kept two cows
milked -and attended them I done the clean-
ing of stable, after that done the churning.
Fire on hearth never was out night or day,
used peat for fire, a little piece at night so
there was fire in the A. M. never a match
or candle in the house, had a little vessel
with oil and wick out on one side, this was
the house light, tho, we had candles for the
work shop. Never seen a newspaper in the
house the only way we got outside news,
was by a class of men called tinkers who
traveled round the country, repairing pots
and pans when required, they had the ad-
vantage to pick up news and impart it in their
travels. We had another class called ped-
dlers, who had some cheap cloth, pins, need-
les and other bric-a-brac, this class supple-
mented the tinkers.
My master had two bairns who visited
often, even the school master would drop
around occasionally and tho they were void
of newspaper lore they would argue- and dis-
cuss public questions, of course my ears were
ever alert, and how I wished I had been
educated. I would try and remember the
words they would use and how they would
pronounce them; the only literature in the
house, the Bible of course first and fore-
most, Chambers information 'for the people,
Josephus, Barns notes on the new Testa-
ment, a worn paper cover copy of Robert
Burns poems. This took my fancy more than
any of the others, for this reason, Burns used
generally small words, besides there were of
the dialect of which I was used to. With a
few lines as to my biblicial training, appren-
ticeship, attended three Sabbath schools, be-
sides a sermon of two hours duration. I can
readily see the divine at this distant day
ascend the pulpit stairs, a big six footer and
how he would lay down the law and the
prophets, and have all his discourse by quota-
tions from the word of God, you will gather
from this, Bible students had all the old
catechism on my tongues end, besides there
was a number of texts to prove each ques-
tion, oh yes every word had to be committed
to memory even at this I would stand most
preacher's examination, but like all things
there was an end to my apprenticeship, so
returned to fathers home, this was on the
sea coast in Belfast, where shipping was car-
ried on extensively. I became infatuated with
the sea, so got a berth aboard a steamship
bound for the Mediterranian to lay a sub-
marine telegraph cable. Visited Gilbralter,
Malta, several cities in Sicily, Italy, returned
after a four months voyage. Joined another
steamer bound for Montevidea and Buenos
Ayres this was a general merchant ship, car-
rying general cargo, arrived home all safe.
After a short stay ashore, joined a New York
passenger vessel, this was during the war be-
tween North and South, a Civil war as it is
called, we were to leave New York on a
Saturday at eight o'clock in the morning,
and here comes word President Lincoln had
been assassinated so we remained a few hours
till his end so the Etna took the first sad
news to Europe. There was a cable across
the Atlantic at this date, but for some cause
was out of repairs. Returning home my fa-
ther advised me to give up the sea and follow
my trade. At this time I had a sister and
brother in the United States, in the state of
Connecticut, wrote them who advised me to
come along, so packed my little output and
in due course arrived at South Manchester,
Connecticut, got job as carpenter at $2.75
per day, the foreman seeing my hand work,
sent me to the shop to make patterns for
silk machinery, as this was a silk factory,
my wages was increased to $3.00 per day,
so my early training came in good play after
all. At this time I roomed with a Scotch-
man by name Gilchrist (his widow still in
Cheyenne). This employment continued for
two years when I returned to Ireland and
took to myself a wife of my own section of
country, arrived back to South Manchester,
where the former job was obtained; about
this time Mr. Gilchrist got married so we
both settled down in the same village. Mr.
Gilchrist was foreman of the outdoor labor-
ers and stood very high in the community;
he was a daily reader of the New York Trib-
une and at "this time Horace Greeley was
editor and was a great authority on many
matters all over the country. He got the
idea of the development of the west, finally
got set aside a large body of prairie land
along the margin of the Cach La Poudre,
advertised for colonists through his and other
papers. Mr. Gilchrist and I caught the in-
fection and took Mr. Greeley's slogan, "go
West Young Man." We put up our entrance
fee of $150.00, first to arrive at embryo city
of Greeley, 29th of April, 1870, it is hard to
refuse a few lines on this occasion, as my
memory goes back vividly at this stage. I
have said we arrived at Greeley at this date,
the railroad only went as far as the village.
We got off the train on a few ties used for
a platform, then what a sight met our view,
not a house to be seen but one shanty for
the engineers tools, also a few tents for their
accommodations.
Each day a few new settlers would arrive
and what disappointment every one experi-
enced, women sitting on their broken boxes,
children crying, men going around with long
faces at a loss to know what to do, finally
an old billiard hall came from Cheyenne,
this afforded shelter and protection to broken
boxes broken in transit, there was a man at
Greeley to receive the arrivals, General Cam-
eron, had been a celebrated man in the Civil
war, and had it not been for his efforts to
encourage the people, I Delieve at that time
the enterprise would have been a failure. Af-
ter all, complaints became so serious, Mr.
Greeley, made a special trip, stayed a few
days among the people, in the evening deliv-
ered good sensible advice, this in a great
measure had a pacifying effect, the whole
trouble the arrival of the settlers was too
early and no provision made for their recep-
tion. The embryo town was surveyed and
mapped, Mr. Gilchrist and I being the first
arrivals, had first right to make a selection,
of town lots, he took first and I second
choice. When lots were secured then build-
ing commenced, I believe I was the first to
erect a shanty, which I donated to carpenter,
so Gilchrist and I found shelter there. Now
all is bustle with the building boom, any one
could saw a board and nail it, but the most
of them could not make a door or window
frame, so I was kept busy supplying such,
how many little incidents crowd my memory
vividly at this distant day but I must for-
bear as it would swell this narrative to un-
reasonable proportions. Most all busy on
their respective plots, friction and complaints
have almost vanished; nothing will cure a
man of crankiness or uneasiness like good
honest hard work. It beats praying all hol-
low. During the summer Gilchrist bought
team and wagon, we being young and husky,
wished to conquer other fields, so arranged
to take a trip, at least into the foot hills west
of Greeley, the country a rolling bare prairie,
25 miles up the stream we arrived at Fort
Collins, here was the remains of a military
post, a concrete building where, a little store
was kept, by man who was known as Squire
Mathews, as we drove up he was standing
with his shoulder against the door post, by
way of opening the conversation, we in-
quired the price of several articles and I re-
member nails were 15 cents per pound. There
was a few shanties, and a hotel kept by a
middle aged lady, who went by the name of
Auntie Stone, the. hotel was outside of the
imposing class of a small log cabin with two
small rooms, we were fortunate to have our
supplies along so did not patronize the ho-
tel; at this date there was some farming be-
ing carried on, and from the results obtained
by these pioneers no doubt it had an effect
on the location of Greeley Colony. Contin-
ued our journey to La Porte, this about 4
miles above Fort Collins, here we found sa-
loon and small store, several Frenchmen
here all had their Indian wives, there was
considerable farming done in this section had
good irrigation ditches, the farmers were all
American. We made camp for the night
having travelled thirty miles. I must add the
store keeper Billy Patterson something of a
rough and ready character and from him
got many tales about the early pioneers, I
will not vouch for them being all gospel.
We made our camp for the night in the
yard of an old Scotchman by name of Watt.
He and his wife had raised several of a fam-
ily but death had taken some, balance scat-
tered over the world. It was a treat to hear
the old people converse in our youthful ver- !
nacular, we got further information about
the country in general, and on which we
could rely, breakfast over we were on the
road again, our next point of interest to visit'
was a place called Livermore, about IS miles
west of LaPorte. We now ascend into the
foot hills proper, roads all in natural condi-
tion and, a good deal of hauling being done
with fencing material principally, the drive
to Livermore was really enchanting, out of
one lovely grassy valley into another, there
the little babbling brook, kept tumbling down
from its eternal source.
At length we arrived at Livermore; at first
we thought we might overlook or fail to dis-
cover it but here it is a dug out in the bank.
Soon the proprietor made his appearance,
he was known by the name of "fatty" Moore,
as to the fat part I think he was well named.
It being noon we unhooked the team, turned
them out to grass, lovely valley here and a
magnificent stream coursing through the
vale, it is called the north fork of the Cach-
La-Poudre, this name I believe is French
md means where the powder was concealed
3r hidden. We found we had discovered a
very interesting character in our friend
Moore. He had traveled a great deal, in
:act was one of the old forty-niners to Cali-
:ornia, but like many others was unsuccess-
ful, so wandered back to Colorado to try his
:uture on new ground. It appears he had
several prospect holes but at this time were
Tuitless. Three miles or so above the Moore
:at>i^ (I mean Livermore, excuse me) there
vas a fine valley, with a grand brook flow-
ng, this valLy had been named Lone Pine,
rom a magnificent lone pine growing on the
)ank of the stream, strange to say no other
;uch tree anywhere along the valley, but cot-
onwood, box elder, willows in profusion.'
During our rambles, we came across, a
nan by the name of Calloway located on the
ibove stream; he was the only settler we
net who haa any cattle, I think fifty or sixty
lead, pretty well bred stock, we inquired how
le provided feed for them in the winter; he
nformed us no provision was necessary, that
hey came through in the spring in fine con-
lition. This made a great impression on Mr.
jilchrist and myself, to think raising cattle
vithout growing feed for them. We must
low hurry back to Greeley having a splendid
mting, gaining much valuable information
)f the country and feasting our eyes on the
gorgeous scenery, there is something fasci-
lating and inexpliciable in a new unsettled
:ountry. Our wives had arrived before we
nade our mountain trip, so. all was well on
mr return.
We now got into harness again and dur-
ng our short absence, how Greeley had
jrown, shanties everywhere over the prairie;
laturaly our trip was the principal topic in
he evening with our families, and we really
vere making plans to leave Greeley and be-
ake ourselves to mountain ranches on the
>eautiful valley of Lone Pine already de-
icribed. In the meantime I had erected, a
imall house one and a half story house for
l man who went back east and gave me lib-
:rty to occupy it and look after his interests.
fVife, one child and I occupied the lower
>art, Mr. Gilchrist and wife upper portion
md done a little cooking on our stove.
Now the winter sets in with its cold freez-
ng blast; coal was very high priced, so had
cotton wood hauled from the river; bored
holes in it and used powder to split the heavy
portion, and oh what a cold winter no one
knew how cold it was as the mercury froze
in the tube, and no spirit thermometer in the
settlement, how my memory lingers over
that winter, even through it all had one child
born (who two years ago departed this life
and now sleeps within the portals of the
tomb). What made the cold so severe houses
erected so flimsy, no plaster or even paper
on the walls, just the rough boards on the
wide spaced studding. We finally turned up
in the spring with experience not readily for-
gotten; great suffering in Greeley that winter.
During the winter the Lone Pine subject be-
come thoroughly ventilated, so much so Mr.
Gilchrist and I had decided to sell our inter-
ests in Greeley and become ranchmen. All
was arranged, Mr. Gilchrist had his own team
and I had made arrangement with Mr. Watt
referred to, to take us to our destination,
first days drive to La-porte to Mr. Watts.
I will here add, his small wagon box was
ample to accommodate all freight and pas-
sengers. On our first visit to Lone Pine, we
became so infatuated with the valley we even
went so far as to outline our respective loca-
tions, at this date I cannot recollect of the
land being surveyed into sections, there was
what was called squatters right, however a
blazed tree or a post or a rock set was duly
respected. In the meantime I had written
friend Moore to have me 800 feet of boards
delivered at a certain Lone Pine point in (I
will add there was a small saw mill on the
upper reaches of the Poudre river, from that
an ox team hauled me the 800 feet of green
pine boards. After staying over night with
Mr. Watt started next morning for our
mountain home. Friend Moore very kindly
gave us the shelter of his dug out for the
night, next morning Mr. Watt delivered us
at our location, I had my tool chest and a
good set of tools I brought from the east,
so on this score was well fixed. Wife and I
started housebuilding, I cut some cotton
wood to make the frame, to be brief we were
living in our mansion all complete the same
day besides having two small children to look
after, the younger still at her mother's
breast. I suppose some would call this
roughing it.
Next day cut cotton wood for posts and
poles for corral, another big day's work,
third day dug out the ground at back of
shanty for cellar, as we were going into
dairying somewhat, and this was our milk-
house. I forget if 1 mentioned from Mr.
Callaway already referred to I purchased 14,
2 year old heifers, at $40.00 per head, also
one three year old mare at $1 50.00. Mr. Cal-
laway delivered the stock in the corrall, so
much headway made. I had a great deal of
trouble holding the cattle as they wished to
go back to their old range, besides my mare
was not well broke, likewise no saddle, so
had to take it on foot, but such at that time
was merely fun to me, as swift of foot and
could almost head an antelope. Mr. Gilchrist
and I were going to do some farming to-
gether as with his team could do the plowing,
etc. We seeded oats, planted 2 barrels of
potatoes, we had purchased in New York, at
\2Y2 cents per pound, of course we must get
water to irrigate as we had experience
enough to know this, but having too many
irons in the fire some of them were bound
to burn, so was unable to get sufficient water
to the crops, which I may add was almost
a complete failure, still further to make mat-
ters worse, here we were visited by one of
the plagues of Egypt, viz., grasshoppers; this
was my first experience with this kind of ver-
min, I saw they would soon devour every-
thing in vegetable line, in a day or so, I
thought I might as well mow the little patch
of oats, but lo and behold when I arrived
with my scythe, the heads of grain were all
down, I swung {he scythe a few times, gath-
ered up a small bunch, dropped them at the
door saying here was our season's grain crop;
the potatoes were all about the size of mar-
bles.
I was just now beginning to have some
experience with my cattle along the lines of
dairying, the first to have calf was a little
red one, I would know her to-day after over
5(J years; of course she never had been hand-
led before so I could not get near her to do
any milking, I went and told my troubles to
friend Gilchrist: he replied I will go down
and give you a hand, we run her round the
corral several times; finally Gilchrist caught
her by the nose and horns, and held her as if
in a vise and said now get your pail and
milk. As soon as I touched her up went her
heels, sent me and pail sprawling over the
ground but I was game and gathered my-
self up and went at the job again, well I
finally succeeded to get about a quart, so
Gilchrist let go and said this is the only sys-
tem tobreak heifer:, you hold them as I do
and let your wife milk. Now here was some-
thing to try our metal. I will here add no
doubt there are women who would excell
Mrs. Gordon in some particulars, but none
could excell her in milking a cow; we used
this system of breaking the heifers until we
had put 12 head through our hands. One
was an extra large one who had her calf in
the fall, she was too much for me to handle
and about this time I heard of a man several
miles away by name of Fisher. I heard he
had a system or plan whereby he could ma-
nipulate a rope and get it on a cow's horns.
I told Fisher the dilemma I was in and wish-
ed he would try his plan on the cow, so I
could tie her to a post and milk her. He was
very obliging, saddled up and we arrived at
the corrall; he got his rope with large loop
and after several attempts finally caught the
heifer, so tied her to post, where we could
handle her. I had Mr. Fisher leave the rope
on her and I bought him another. I will
here mention this was my first experience
laso-ing, at this date there were no cow-
punchers in this section. I must here men-
tion the calves were all raised by hand, so
the cows did not waste any affection on their
offspring; through all my experience I never
had such a docile bunch of cows, in fact when
Mrs. Gordon would go into the pen to milk
I had to be on hand to keep the others away
while the one was being milked; this outline
of ranch life continued during the summer.
The fame of the little valley as a pasture
location got abroad and several settlers had
located with some cattle. It appeared to me
we were liable to be crowded, as I had got
somewhat familiar with surrounding coun-
try. I decided to move about six or eight
miles to a new location, where there was a
nice little meadow, and a splendid spring;
here I had a visit from the muse which
caused me to exclaim.
The Bonnie wee spring by the Meadow,
How I love to sit down by your side.
And quaff the sweet waters that bubble eter-
nal
Like yon flowing tide.
Your quota you send to the ocean
Where frantic you rage in the storm,
The clash of arms will be felt on your bosom
And Leviathians lash you to foam.
How gentle and sweet from the mountain,
Xo nectar such pleasure can bring,
O, give me a draft from the fountain,
From my own my bonnie wee spring.
This place had the signal advantage as it
was three or four miles to the nearest water,
I could not be crowded by being too close to
a neighbor. You will gather from this we
looked to having quite a space betwixt neigh-
bors, five or six miles was reckoned close
enough in those days so our nearest neigh-
bors' chickens would not scratch each oth-
ers gardens.
There was a pine timber a short distance
from the above location, so I proceeded on
horseback A. M. after breakfast, to cut down
logs to build a house. This was six miles
from our present location, returning in the
evening kept up these trips until I had suf-
ficient logs to complete the building hired a
man with ox team to haul the logs, and help
me to put them in place; the logs were cut
14x12, so our mansion was about 1Ux12, 6
feet high, I done all chinking and mudded
the spaces betwixt the logs. I demolished
our present shanty of 800 feet of lumber, as
already described, this covered the roof and
gave us a floor which was a great improve-
ment over the sticky earth. I have said
the stock were all nice and gentle by the
process breaking already described, had a
corral all ready, also made pen for the calves,
at one end of the dwelling had a little sta-
ble for the mare; this location saved one side
part of house building, the whole structure
was partly excavated on side of bluff. Back
side of stable excavated and built small cave
or cave for the chickens, on bad weather
they had the run of the little stable. Mrs.,
Gordon often said she never had chickens
that done so well, as the saying goes we were
as snug as a bug in a rug. One little win-
dow, four small panes of glass, stove in one
corner, bed for the whole family four of usJ
Here we are in the month of November and]
now a snow storm six or eight inches. I
was informed by the man I bought the cattle
from it was unnecessary to make provision
for the stock during the winter. It looked
to me the cattle could not very well feed on
a snow bank. Well here was a calamity un-
expected of cows and $700.00 in debt but as
the Scotch has it "set a stout heart to a stie
brae" in a few days the storm subsided so
took my trusty Henry rifle started back in
the hills expecting to see the cattle all dead
from starvation. But lo and behold here one,
two, three in fact all the balance came up
to view all looking perfectly contented; this
was a rocky timbered section, abundant grass
showing above the snow, this was the first
grass cropped by cattle, tho we had a severe
winter the stock came through in most ex-
cellent condition. I hurried back to tell the
good news about the cattle to my wife and
on my way back a fine fat white tailed deer
came in view which my rifle brought down,
taking the saddle or hind quarters threw
them on my shoulders and arrived triumph-
antly at the cabin, when the good news of
the cattle was told joy took place of
melancholy, though we had a severe winter,
the stock came through, in fairly good con-
dition. The calves I had arranged with a
man by the name of Day, who had a mag-
nificent meadow and abundance of hay, so
the calves fared very well; not so with my
mare, I had no hay for the kindly beast, so
done the best under circumstances, I pick-
eted her during the day with an old blanket
strapped on her, so she pawed snow most
of the day. In the evening I would take
large knife and go around the rocks where
grass was tall, fill a sack, this with a quart
of oats or so was the bill of fare for the
night. During the winter kept busy keeping
the stove going, occasionally looking after
the cattle, kept the larder well supplied with
venison; in those days it did not take an
expert nimrc d to capture all the necessary
game. To make a long story short we got
through the winter without any loss to the
cattle, but by mare pretty thin.
Old Sol now returned with his usual smile.
A busy life has now ensued, dairying has now
proceeded with, but our conditions were so
cramped had to erect something more of a
habitation. Secured a thorough wood chop-
per who hewed sufficient logs nicely hewed
to make house 14x16 feet, this was a great
improvement; made shingles by hand which
was a great improvement over the earth roof,
this I believe was the only shingled house
in the settlement. Had a nice little stone
milk house on north end with flat stone floor
with a little labor had the spring water con-
ducted to milk hou:e, so we were in a proper
shape to carry on our butter making. The
butter we put up in two pound cotton sacks,
this was stored in wood barrels, the spring
water trickling around so the butter kept in
excellent condition. When we had two hun-
dred pounds or so I would make the journey
to market, Cheyenne 50 miles distant. I
would start four or five p. m. and drive to
Lone Tree ranch, camp over night, up by
day light, nine miles to Cheyenne, get there
when stores and people were beginning to
move around. I generally visited Camp Car-
lin; there I found a good market — no Fort
Kus sell m those days. Besides a gread deal
of freight was going north from Cheyenne
and the butter being so packed suited the
freighters to perfection; having secured my
supplies on the homebound trip arrived some
time during the night. During my absence
had a lady settler stay with wife so I would
get her supplies, and pay her otherwise. It
was ten miles from my ranch on the way to
Cheyenne to Builder creek; at the crossing,
was located a ranch kept by Martin Callaway,
a brother of the man I bought the cattle
from. I would oblige them with bringing
back any little groceries and their mail. Next
creek about 10 miles further was located I
think the name is Lone Tree, the property
of Tom Magie, John Rees, now of Cheyenne
was the manager. The accommodation was
extended here same as to Martin Callaway.
In those days we were remarkably obliging
one with another. I suppose being so wide-
ly separated had a tendency to make us more
sociable or friendly to each other. This
strenuous existence kept up for three or four
years when settlers began to multiply. The
new settlers were arriving and being short
of mail facilities put our heads together and
secured weekly mail service; the postmaster
was my friend Moore already referred to
who had the post office in his dug out. I
got the contract to carry the weekly mail on
horseback to La Porte at $200.00 per an-
num, from my place to Livermore was three
miles, would ride there for mail, return get
breakfast, then to La Porte, change mail
back to Livermore, deposit mail and return
home. I made three weekly trips summer
and winter for two years and only missed
one trip on account of storm, sometimes
mail was very light one time only one letter
in the sack.
Bonnies Springs, very fine springs bubbling
up in the desert, two young men from Wis-
consin located there their father furnishing
them a bunch of sheep, their names were
Bennet, one of them now operates a bank
at Fort Collins, Colorado. This is the first
sheep at least in northern Colorado that I
had seen or heard of. I have said before
the three mile was now invading my domain;
these were fine boys and got well acquaint-
ed, I finally sold my ranch to them for
$500.00. This was a pile of money to me in
those days. In looking around for a new lo-
cation, I finally bought a ranch from a man
by the name of Miller, the ranch was still
further in the mountains than what I had
been used to, it consisted of log house, log
corral, small stable. It will not be expected
it could be much of a place for the above
$150.00 price. It was unsuited for dairying
so let the cows rear their own calves. Here
cur youngest child was born, this made our
family one boy and two girls; this location
seemed far from pleasing, so made up our
minds to look out for a new location. About
this time 76, the northern country was being
talked about as fine location could be se-
cured especially as the Indians had been
thoroughly controlled. To make a prospect
I took my saddle horse, a couple of blankets
and started on my prospecting tour. In due
time without any mishap arrived at Bordeaux
known as the Jack Hunton ranch. This
was my first acquaintance with Mir. Hunton,
who was very gentlemanly toward me and
10
gave me much valuable information about
the surrounding country, and that settlers
need have no fears about future trouble with
Indians. I finally examined the big and little
Laramie streams as they were caled, the sec-
tion where the two flow together suited me
better than any I had seen as there was
abundance of water to irrigate; near this lo-
cation there was a bridge across the big
Laramie, close by there was a cabin where
a man by the name of Billy Bacon with his
wife resided. I think they supplied meals for
any travellers who passed that way. It was
a great camping ground for the freighters
as it was twenty miles or so from Bordeaux,
finally returned home and made my report
of discovery in the northern country. So we
decided to move to the Laramie River or
bust, by the way the section described was
called Uva, I have forgotten the origin of
the name. Accordingly wagon, team and
supplies were arranged so hired a good relia-
ble man, by name of George Hardin. Leav-
ing family provided for with a neighbor bade
adeiu to our mountain home, departed for our
new location, this as I remmeber the early
part of March, 1878, without any mishap ar-
rived safely at Uva. It was getting about
sun down when we arrived. I told my man
George to fix up camp, our bed under the
wagon, while I would go up the stream and
get a deer or antelope, no trouble to find
game handy in those days; I had only gone
a short time, when I felt a few drops of rain.
This caused me to look up and then I beheld
a fearful black cloud in the northwest and
just about this time I brought down an an-
telope, took the saddles and hurried back to
camp. It was raining, we had plenty of wood
so soon -had a good fire and with our venison
and good stout coffee had a good supper.
It was now almost dark, so we divided our
bed over the horses and crawled under the
wagon; the storm increased in violence, rain
ceased and turned to snow and the wind ter-
rific, no sleep that night so we did the best
we could to keep from being smothered; at
daylight what a scene to behold, horses, wa-
gon almost covered; we lay some time after
day light, thinking the fury of the storm
would be abated but apparently no cessation.
I said to my man George, I am going to
make an effort to reach the Bacon cabin, so
up we got, of course we lay down undressed,
the cabin was only 100 yards or so distant
and we had the location by the wind storm.
We took each others hands and finally reach-
ed the cabin, to say that Bacon and wife
were surprised is putting it mildly, they
thought we would have been lost in such a
blizzard. We found them chinking up every
crevice to keep out the snow and we ren-
dered every assistance to keep out the snow,
this being accomplished consoled ourselves
in being fortunate to secure shelter, day al-
most passed but no give up to the storm.
Toward dusk I mentioned to my man George
we must see the horses at all hazards, he was
reluctant to go, but seeing I would go alone
he decided to face the storm. Bacon had a
little stable so got the horses into it, one
brought the team while one handled a sack
of oats and bags. Then another trip for the
mess box and our little bedding which we
resurrected out of the snow, we were for-
tunate to be well supplied, with provisions,
as the Bacon family hadn't much to spare.
For three days and nights the storm con-
tinued unabated, no hay for the team, so far
oats twice a day. On the third day in after-
noon the storm subsided, the violence of the
wind left the high parts of ground almost
bare, so took the team out to paw for little
grass which they assuredly enjoyed; on the
fourth day all was serene and calm and what
a sight, the country seemed almost perfectly
level. You could not see where the big Lara-
mie existed. I cannot give the date, but this
has always been referred to as the big March
storm, and has become historical.
Our first move was to get some logs to
erect a shanty, but in this vicinity on the big
and little Laramie, very little could be pro-
cured. It was fifteen miles to Cottonwood
creek, there was ample Cottonwood, so the
effort was made to reach this creek, so left
the wagon box and started with running
gear with our supplies. It is really unneces-
sary to recount our difficulties, we were two
days reached the creek, had to shovel snow
the greater part of the way, in some cases
took the team from the wagons and broke
through the drifts almost to their backs.
Finally we reached the Cottonwood Creek,
here I discovered the man I bought the
$150.00 ranch from, I think I mentioned his
name, he was known as Tobe Miller, he
was pleased to see us and had ample accom-
modation for us and team. The ranch was
devoted principally to accommodation of
travellers, especially freighters, as a great
deal of freight passed this way to Fort Fet-
terman and the region surrounding it. Cat-
tle ranches were just being established. This
was about 35 miles from Bordeaux, and 15
to 20 miles to Horse Shoe creek, now to get
timber to build a house this stream had a
much greater growth of cottonwood than any
I have ever seen. I suppose this is the rea-
son it got such a name.
Snow was beginning to settle, and a freight
outfit has pushed its way from Bordeaux,
so I and my man went to chopping the cot-
tonwoods, the timber being so dense it caught
and held the snow. I know that I cut some
trees that were at least ten feet from the
ground, when we had a few cottonwoods,
started George with a few sticks only so he
could make the return trip. In the mean-
time I kept cutting to have a load ready on
his return; this work we kept up until we
had enough material to build the house.
After six weeks or so of such experience
we arrived home all sound. All was now
bustle in making preparations to reach the
promised land, as near as I can remember
we just vacated the great $150.00 ranch in
the month of May, bade adeau to Colorado
and cast our lot in Wyoming. After a very
tedious journey with wife and three small
children and small bunch of cattle we reached
Uva and our little cottonwood cabin with its
dirt roof and floor. With the help of two
young men who drove the cattle we got a
corral erected so we could secure the cattle
at night and stable for four head of horses.
11
Here I took up a desert claim, got fencing
lone, took out irrigation and made the place
doom as the rose. The Bacons were still at
he old place and had made it a disreputable
dace for wild cowboys and other rif-raff;
i gambling and drinking den paid Bacon an
:ven $1,000.00 to leave, and I filed pre-emp-
ion of $160.00 on the place. I will add
Bacon located at Fort Fetterman, established
l saloon and gambling place where shooting
vas the order of the day; in one of these
amps, Bacon got involved when the bullet
rom his antagonist lodged in his wind pipe
md shut the breathing apparatus. This is
he tale given to me and this shooting ended
he life of Billy Bacon. Think I have said
le was a wild dare devil, it was said he could
ide anything that wore hair, and got a leg
iroken riding an outlaw.
In the process of time the fame of the
_,aramie Valley got abroad in the land and
ettlers began to arrive to take up land, one
.mong the rest I must mention. While I
ived in that celebrated $150.00 ranch I got
cquainted with a celebrated hunter named
Dutch George, he had a small dug out on
he bank of the Poudre river where the speck-
ed trout were in abundance; he and I were
lose friends, and many a fishing and hunt-
iTg*l¥ip we had together. So at my depar-
ure he said he would follow me, in due
ourse of time he arrived and we were very
dad to see him, as he was honorable to the
ore; at this time the Laramie Peak- region
vas really undiscovered and the natural ren-
lezvous for all kinds of game. Naturally
ieorge wished to explore the region, and
vished above all things to kill a bear. I
dvised him to be careful, as he was void of
ear and replied to my caution he was willing
o die a hunter. He had his horse and pack-
d a little grub and bedding to be gone two
lays, on the third day no appearance of
George, so I and another started to find him,
re finally discovered his horse picketed; a
hort distance from the horse we explored
canyon and here we found George badly
hewed up, judging by the signs it must have
ieen a bear. It seems the animal crushed
lis skull, then to make sure he was dead,
lad bitten his leg down to the foot as it
ranted to see if he was still alive. His gun
tood against a tree and we found his pocket
:nife open the conclusion we arrived at was
e had nearly stunned the bear, and started
o dress it when it came to life and got the
iest of him.
He was such an expert hunter he never
ised anything to dress his game but his
■ocket knife. We brought him to the ranch
nd what a sorrowful journey; of course the
ad news soon got around the settlement and
hough not personally acquainted with him
hey had a good report for him. I had some
imiber and made a good box, had some
rish linen we brought from Ireland, wrapped
lim as nice as we could, had the men quarry
>ut a grave on the side hill (I remember the
ery spot even after so many years) covered
lis last remains with large rock so coyotes
ir other vermin could not disturb the re-
nains of poor George. I sent a man and
team to the hills and secured large pitch pine
posts and poles. I have no doubt the grave
is intact to this day; after over forty years
he still lives in my memory as a kind worthy
associate. Though this sad occurrance cast
a gloom over my house-hold, still the affairs
of life had to be proceeded with.
I rebuilt where the location was and the
travel increased so I was compelled to keep
open house and charge for accommodation.
One of my patrons was Judge Carey, who
made frequent visits to his cattle ranch at
Careyhurst. Having had eight years experi-
ence, and seeing the results of irrigation at
Greeley, Fort Collins, Laporte, I began to
think how it would apply in the Laramie
region; at this time, antelope were very nu-
merous and on the section where Wheat-
land is now located this was one of the fa-
vorite haunts. On my hunting expeditions
I have viewed this section over, such a mag-
nificent settlement for a colon}', and the
Laramie River bank full of water and not a
ditch taken therefrom. On one occasion I
mentioned my idea as to a settlement to
Judge Carey, it so impressed him he wished
to look over the ground. In doing so he was
greatly impressed with results that could be
obtained, according on his return to Chey-
enne he had a committee go up and spy out
the land which was done; to be brief the
laudable Wheatland project was inaugurated.
Judge Carey and I have always been the best
of friends and he has always been very con-
siderate towards me, even going so far, from
the public platform, as to give me the honors
of being the father of Wheatland. In reality
Judge Carey fully deserves such, as Greeley
is indebted to Horace Greeley, so Wheatland
to Joseph M. Carey. I cannot be positive
as to the date but this interview with the
Judge and I must have been in 1882.
About this date the reputation of this sec-
tion got broadcast as being especially adapted
for range cattle. In fact there were some
herds here already; there were Kent, a bank-
er from Cheyenne, Hick Rue, F. M. Phillips,
Nagle on the Sybille Creek. In fact I even
caught the infection of putting some cattle
on the range. Having got the news of a
man that went by the name of French Joe
at the road crossing of La Bonte Creek, he
kept a road ranch which means supplied
meals and lodging, beer and whisky. He
had a French woman and they wished to sell
at a sacrifice. I had been over this section
of country heretofore, and to my judgment
no better range country lay out of doors, so
Joe and I closed the deal for the place and
all its contents. I remember well several
barrels of beer, part of barrel of whiskey,
from this you will readily infer I was doubly
primed. One thing still lingers in memory,
we sat chatting until dark then to bed, we
had a shake down on the floor for the two
girls. Knowing their own beds it was not
necessary to get a light in turning their bed,
when rattle, rattle, here was a large rattle
snake, a light was procured when I dispatch-
ed him, having nine rattlers. Very singular,
this was the only rattle snake I saw in this
section. In the meantime I had left a man
12
to look after the Laramie ranch while I was
gone.
Some three miles up the creek, there was
a settler by the name of Daily, or Long Daily
as he was generally known by I forget his
height, but he was above six feet and when
he was mounted on a small pony his feet al-
most touched the ground. He was very so-
ciable and gave much information about the
range and how his cattle fared especially
during the winter; for a few days wife and I
talked over the situation, when a man rode
up to the ranch, and had dinner; he inform-
ed me he had 2,500 head of cattle on the
road and was looking to some place to hold
them to get branded, he wished to know if
I would allow him to hold them on the
creek until he could brand them. I gave my
consent at once, the cattle got on the creek
next day, so he took some of his men and
hired some others, cut down cottonwood,
built corral and shoots, one man hired to
haul firewood for the branding irons, one
man to attend to heating the irons, this man's
name was Garth, a Missourian.
During the preliminary work getting ready
to brand he talked of selling the herd, and
went so far as to price them, and tried to sell
to me, I told him the bite was too large to
chin, that there was too much money in-
volved for me to tackle, but he kept urging
me to buy and said we could arrange the
money matters. However, I agreed to tally
them as they went through the shoots. I
think it took about two weeks to finish brand-
ing, by this time I had made up my mind not
to buy. The cattle were too thin and tender
footed, so I told Mr. Garth I would not risk
the purchase, but offered to sell the ranch
reasonable and told him about the good
range, etc. Finally we came to terms about
the sale of the ranch, so we hiked back to
the Laramie ranch having made a little mon-
ey by the transaction. At this date 1884
there was great influx of new men invading
the country, hailing from the east princi-
pally, even from across the Atlantic, the
Scotch were signally represented, among this
motley of prospective cattlemen, there were
two, by name Tishmacher, and De Billier,
who stopped with me a few days looking
over the country, with the view of embark-
ing in the cattle business. The conditions
seemed to them as being most suitable, finally
they approached me if I would feel like sell-
ing my ranch, after a good deal quibbling
we came to terms as to price which seemed
reasonable to each of us. As the saying goes
I am Scot free.
Now what was the next step to take in our
journey through life? Then we decided as
we had had fourteen years of a strenuous
ranch life, we deserved a vacation, and would
pay our friends a visit, our friends on our
native heath in County Antrim, Ireland,
where youth had its joyful days. In due time
we arrived with our friends which was a
joyful meeting to all of us. Three months
or so was spent with so much felicity I can-
not describe.
Arrived in Cheyenne, now the next move
in our career, we were now unfit for anything
but ranching so the country was looked over,
we had decided we had enough roughing it
on the frontier, so looked at an old settled
section on Little Horse creek. Having de-
cided on this location I purchased three small
settlers, and made an extensive ranch, built
fine house and barn, refenced, reditched all
the land, got all in fine shape to handle small
bunch of fine cattle. Got stocked with the
first Herefords in this section paying $400.00
each for four weaned calves from George
Morgan at what is known as the Hereford
Ranch. If my memory is not at fault this
Morgan brought the first Hereford cattle
that came to the State. With the exception
of one calf, the sale he made to me was the
first he made, now they are the principle
breed all over the West.
I finally got enlarging myself too much,
then organized a company and through this
inadvertent step, lost my ranch, I and my
family had been so many years of toil and
hardship to build up. Paid every dollar I
justly owed and arrived in Cheyenne with
my family, this gave my children an oppor-
tunity to get to a good school, as this was
lacking at our ranch.
About 'this time the Department of Agri-
culture decided on the establishment of ani
experiment farm at Cheyenne which was toj
test dry farming and a limited amount of
irrigation. Being experienced in this line of
work and foot loose, I took the necessary
examination and was successful in securing
the position as manager of the experiment
farm, which I conducted for ten years with'
satisfaction to the Department, to show their
appreciation of my services, they favored me
with a vacation of three months, to visit
Australia and make an examination of their
irrigation which I done and made a full re-
port of all conditions on my return.
During the ten years the farm was in
operation it was considered all the plans and
experiments outlined had been satisfactorily
wrought out so no further experiments were'l
necessary. In the meantime had lost my?
youngest daughter, my second daughter had
married and had a home of her home. My
■son having a farm at Worland, Wyoming,
wife and I being alone decided to establish
ourselves with my son so shook the dust of)
Cheyenne regretfully from our feet and mov-
ed to Worland. Here I met the most severe
calamity of all, in the death of my beloved
wife, who had fought the battle of life with}
me in the West for half a century under-
going all the trials of frontier life, without
the slightest repining.
Now I am at sea again. However I havef
my son as above stated and one daughter.
This daughter's health became somewhat im-
oaired so sh~ and husband decided to try
California climate and see what effect it
would would have in the recuperation of
health, the climate seemed to have a bene-
ficial effect and decided to locate; there plans
were all matured, and arrangements were';
finally consummated, I was to make my
home with them for the future. But alas,
we know not what a day may bring forth,
unexpectedly my daughter took sick and in
spite of all the efforts that could be made for
her recovery, finally departed this life. Her
13
dying injunction to her husband was to look
after the welfare of her father, which he has
so faithfully done.
I He purchased a farm and is in the chicken
business, his brother and wife are with him,
and really making their home with him. Mr.
Lawson looks after the house and his brother
assists in the business. I have a garden
which I love to cultivate and make plants
of all kinds grow to perfection; this is my
career up to my four score year, a truthful
statement without the slightest elaboration.
(Signed) JOHN H. GORDON.
EARLY DAYS IN THE WEST
By T. H. McGEE
In 1855 I freighted from Leavenworth to
Fort Kearney. In 1856 I went out to Fort
Laramie. In 1857 I reached Devils' Gate at
Riverton, Wyoming, freighting corn for
Johnson's army. There was a Mormon up-
rising at the time. I went back home and
came out to Fort Laramie again in 1858. In
1857 I went from Riverton to Laramie and
there to Denver with_ a six yoke ox team.
On that trip, on the spot where Harry Farth-
ing's ranch is now we met up with a bunch
of green boys whose mules had been run
off by Indians, except one old mule that
woutd not leave the corral. The boys were
oadly scared and had unloaded their wagons
md made a barricade. These Indians had
bothered my Irian a day or so earlier but as
there were twenty-six ox teams and quite a
few men, they did not attack us. I got the
-heumatism very badly this trip and the boys
had to lift me on and off the wagon but I
could drive ell right. I soaked flannel rags
in kerosene and wrapped them around my
legs and soon got O. K.
In 1860, April 14th, I left Fort Worth,
Texas, with a trail herd. In six weeks we
were opposite St. Joe. We couldn't sell them
and took them to Grand Prairie, Illinois.
We crossed the Missouri at Nebraska City.
The people caused us lots of riding; they
would try to see the cattle and these wild
aid long horns would stampede, and run for
miles. I had a horse and a mule for the
whole trip. To cross the river, we tried to
:erry them and got some over — some swam
icross. We crossed the Mississippi at Musk-
ateen in the same way and drove them into
Chicago in bunches of about. 150 to 200 head.
They were hard to get onto the ferry. The
boss was old Captain Harris, a retired army
;aptain from the Mexican war. He was a
hard drinker and didn't stay with us if we
were near a town. I finally went up to the
hotel and asked him how we were to cross
those cattle. He swore and said to do any-
thing but to get them across somehow. I
went back and we tried to swim them over.
We tied the bell steer to a boat and led him
nit he would not swim, just floated, and only
ibout 80 crossed with him. Thirty-five head
drifted eight miles down river to an island.
We finally got them off in a boat. We went
sack over the road picking up cattle all along
that we had lost coming. There were very
tew fences even in Kansas at that time or in
Illinois, but the farmers who were scattered
along just settling were afraid of the Texas
cattle bringing Spanish fever (tick or Texas
fever were other names) to their milk stock,
and they fought us back all they could. We
had to cross part of Oklahoma or the Osage
Reserve near Cherokee and when these men
turned us back we went four miles west of
Topeka in a little dry creek and a man came
after us there. I told the Mexican to say
"No savee" and I pretended to be asleep.
The man had been sent out ot meet us and
guide us by some of the owners and he had
had an awful time trying to find us and was
at his wits end nearly, so I decided to wake
up and tell him he had found us. He was
hired to guide us past the farmers through
Kansas, Nebraska and Iowa, that is, different
men were hired for each locality to pilot the
herds. We would tell the farmers we had
come from Cherokee.
In 1856 I crossed the South Platte at Cali-
fornia crossing on my way to Fort Laramie
by ox team on the Ash Hollow route. At
that time, along the Platte was nothing but
mud flats, horned toads and buffalos. I
wouldn't have taken the whole thing for a
gift if you had offered it to me. It was the
most desolate looking place I ever saw.
There was no Wyoming then. It was all
called the Dakotas. There were lots of In-
dians. The Government was making a treaty
of some sort with them. As the wagon train
went along, Indians could be seen nearly all
the time. One of the boys insulted an In-
dian some how and the Indian stalked the
wagon train for days with a gun, so that the
white boy had to lie hidden in the wagons
during the trip.
In the winter of 1857 we wintered up on
the Sibylee and those ox teams were the
first cattle ever wintered in Wyoming. I
built a cabin of cotton wood logs where the
old Two Bar ranch is now. There was a
good plain road then, tracked over by thou-
sands of immigrants and freighters.
Some of the men who were contemporary
with me in the freighting were Mr. Whit-
comb, Lou Simpson, Fred Draper who was
killed at Memphis, Tennessee, in '58, High
Kelley and Tom Maxwell who was on the
stage route.
There was a mule outfit left the river at
the same time I did with ox teams and I beat
them into Laramie by two weeks. There
was a man named Williams, an old "bull-
whacker" who was abused by the Simpson
mentioned above and they got in a fight and
Williams pulled his gun and shot Simpson.
Beggs and Russel were big Government
contractors then. Russel died in Denver
ten or fifteen years ago but his children are
still in Wyoming somewhere. Oliver Gooden
was wagon master for them.
On March 26, 1859, we freighted from Lar-
amie to Camp Floyd at Provo, Utah. We
left the wagons at Salt Lake, sold the cattle
to be trailed to California and started back
with eight wagons and sixty men for Ne-
braska City.
Jim Hines was wagon master and John
Donaldson assisted. Hines left at Green
River, Wyoming, on account of bad eyes.
14
Donaldson later went to Virginia City on a
survey and died soon after.
After staying at home for two years and
spending six months in the Confederate army
I started freighting again in 1862. This time
I went to Fort Union, New Mexico, with Ed
Gleason as wagon boss, and Pat-somebody
(name forgotten) as assistant. Pat later had
a copper mine in Montana.
The winter of 1863, I freighted to Fort
Garland with Tom Fields as assistant wagon
master. We wintered the cattle at Garland
and went up the Santo Christo trail. That
winter was the worst winter I ever saw.
There were two feet of snow on the trail.
We could not get through. The Govern-
ment sent out a hundred soldiers from Gar-
land to help us. We unloaded the freight
and never did get it all. It took us thirty
days to go one mile. We had half mules
and half oxen. Seventeen men quit, although
they were hired by the round trip and I
was sent back with them. It was the cold-
est winter I ever experienced in the west.
There was solid snow from Colorado to the
Mississippi.
For eight days we lived on one meal a day
and we had lots of "grub," it was fire wood
we could not find. Two men would ride in
the wagon and the others walk. We took
turns. We fed the cattle, shelled corn and
kept them chained to the wagons when not
driving them. The buffalo were hungry and
cold and bothered us all the time. In camp
the men kept hollering one night for me
to shoot the buffalo. I had the only gun, so
got up and got mv gun, an old cap and ball,
muzzle loader and banked away but it did
not go off. After a while it fired and I saw
one pick up its feet queerly as it went over
a little rise. I said, "Boys, get the ox team
and haul in that buffalo for meat." They
did not believe I had dropped one but went
to see and came back dragging a fine, fat,
dry, cow buffalo. We took the hind quar-
ters and hung them to the wagon. We would
only skin as we used it and the meat kept
very well.
There was a big fellow named Spencer
among the men. He was a Michigan lumber-
jack and he wanted to kill a buffalo himself,
so I loaned him my gun and he shot a big
buffalo calf. When he got up to the calf
it jumped up and began to fight. They were
both out on ice cakes in the Arkansas river
and it was sure a fine battle; first one, then
the other would be on top. We were betting
on the calf too, if it hadn't been on the ice,
but Spencer finally killed it with a bowie
knife. A buffalo calf will fight when it's
three days old, maybe younger. The thou-
sands of buffalo were held back by the ice
on the Arkansas that year, where they were
accustomed to cross for wintering.
We left Fort Pawnee in the morning and
crossing Nine Mile Ridge that December
morning in 1863, it was 40 degrees below
zero, a foot of snow and a high wind. I
wrapped an old coat and a buffalo robe
around my body and walked ahead, tramp-
ing out a trail and looking for a good camo-
ing place. Finally I called to the men to
come on and I began to chop wood and pile
it up. When they did not come I climbec
back on the ridge to see what was the mat-
ter. They were all bunched up. I called
to them and went back to my fire making.
Still no sign of them so I went back again
and I just had to knock and punch them
into action. They were freezing and hated
to move. Meanwhile I couldn't make a fire
in the snow, so I took an old pine store-box'<
out of the wagon and split it up fine and
made a fire in the dish pan in the wagon.
When it got big enough I set it, pan and all,
outside. Soon we had a roaring fire and
when bed time came we pulled the fire over
a ways and put our beds where the fire hadf
been. We slept warm. We had the oxen
chained to trees and fed them shelled corn,
but I was afraid all that night that they
would freeze standing there. Next morn-
ing we got to a place owned by Charley
Root, a "squaw man" and there we got hay1'
and rested ourselves up a little.
When we got to Council Grove, which is
125 miles from Leavenworth, the boys hired I
a team. They wanted to get in quickly on i
account of frozen feet and so on. They
reached Leavenworth in the evening and I
got in next morning. I went 500 miles in
twenty-one days with my oxen.
After this trip I helped a man named Ad-
ams to collect 300 head of oxen around Man-
hattan, Kansas. When that was done I got
a lot of ponies and drove them into Leaven-
worth where I sold them at auction.
In 1864, I went with a freighting outfit to
Fort Union, New Mexico. It is an old Mexi-
can fort near Santa Fe. We crossed the!
Hornalla (Jornado ?) It is a desert sixty]
miles long. I think it is called the Staked
Plains now. I saw the place there, where
500 mules and a lot of soldiers died of star-]
vation and thirst. It is at the head of the
Cimmarron. The bones lie there in heaps
for some distance. The government sent re-:
lief and rescued a few of the men, but nearly
all died, not knowing where to go and not
having any food or water stored up against
such a trip. They were just learning the .
trails then.
We traveled all night with only an hour's
rest. We had to lock the wheels to keep the '
cattle from running to water when we reach-
ed it. They were crazy to jump into it, and J
bawling something terrible.
That fall I left the river. There were two
trains of freight wagons. One was in charge
of Tom Fields and one in charge of Jerry
Fields. We left one train at Laramie. Tom J
Fields went on. We went over a new route i
that time, because so many teams had been ]
going over the road, that there was no grass.
They left me for a while with some sore foot- I
ed cattle. W? were on the road all winter
that year. We got into Leavenworth the j
fourteenth of June and made two trips to j
Lyons.
In 1865, I went to Salt Lake as wagon
boss for Johnny Freeland who owned the i
outfit. Young Freeland was assistant wagon
master. When Freeland went on ahead into
Salt Lake City, Simonds was in his place.
Johnny Thomas was a man who belonged
in the other train. There were two trains
15
f us this time too. He fell out with the
len and asked me if he could join our train;
gave him a place. At Rock Springs some
f our cattle got mixed up with the cattle
f the other train and I sent Thomas after*
hem. The men with whom Thomas had
illen out before, raised an ugly row and
'homas shot at one of them and hit Simonds
I the leg. Before he could get medical at-
ention he died of blood poisoning. Free-
ind sold the cattle to an outfit freighting
3 Montana and Thomas stayed with the
attle.
I came back from Salt Lake on the stage
oach. It took seventeen days and nights
rom Salt Lake to Atchison, Kansas, which
re reached on Christmas day. Then a man
amed Ed Lee and I ran a train for a man
samed Salisbury.
But to get back to the stage trip. Near
he old California Crossing the stage driver
ell asleep and struck a telephone pole and
pset. The driver seemed useless, but I in-
isted he could splice the tongue with the
sad lines so it would hqld until we got to a
oad house. There were Bill and Jess Travis,
/ho were horse auctioneers from Virginia
Ety, Nevada, Doc Shales and Mr. Post,
welve other, boys and I in the coach. We
II walked except Jess Travis whose back
/as-h^lrt. Bill Travis was taking his brother
ack to Chicago for treatment.
Doc Shales had 200 pounds of gold dust
/ith him. He had a gun and was anxious
ver his dust. When the. coach upset, Doc
ad lost his gun some how and when we
/ere tramping along, we met two soldiers
nd Doc gave them five dollars to go and
md his gun and bring it to him. We never
aw the soldiers or the gun again. When
/e got to Denver the army quarter-master
hartered the ^oach and offered Shales $24.00
,n ounce for his gold in greenbacks but he
vould not take it. He said he would take
I to Washington to be coined.
. This man, Post, used to have a bank in
Cheyenne which went to the wall later. At
his time he used to mow hay with a scythe
outh of Chevenne and haul it to Denver and
ell it for $80.00 a ton.
I lived seven or eight years on my land
•efore I filed claim on it. I proved up in
wo years. I hauled quaking aspen trees
rom the hills and fenced some. I bought
ighteen or twenty Montana steers out of a
rail herd going through; they were sore
ooted so were for sale. We never weaned
.ny calves and never fed any cattle in wili-
er until late in the 80's.
Cheyenne was a tough cow town. There
las a Vigilance Committee in those days.
During roundups and while herding we
vere bothered by buffalo. They mixed with
he cattle causing much trouble and many
ights. We shot them wholesale. There
vere many men making a living from skin-
ling buffalo and the hides only sold for
ibout a dollar. They rapidly disappeared
n the 70's. I killed one at the ranch in
876 right by the corral.
There were hundreds of antelope every-
vhere. In 1858 up on the Sibylee near Lara-
n ie we watched one band of them passing
for two hours, several thousands of them,
moving their range from the mountains to
the flats. In the fall Mr. Whitcomb caught
eighteen antelope in the snow. one morning
with dogs. Three were many bands of forty
or fifty deer to be seen near the mountains
at any time. In 1856, while driving about
twenty ox teams we ran into so many thou-
sands of buffalo on the Little Blue river in
Kansas that we had to put guards night and
day for three hundred miles to protect the
oxen.
In a terrible blizzard in 1871, we were
living in a house made of box boards with
a sod chimney. The chimney caught on fire
and we had to put the fire out.
I never lost a man by Indians in twelve
years of freighting. In 1876 we were at-
tacked by Indians who were thieving, ten
or twelve miles east of Pine Bluffs. I had
twenty-six wagons. Some of the men went
down to Pole Creek to water some of the
sorenecked cattle. They saw the Indians
watching from the hills and they warned the
rest of us who were busy loosing the cattle
and making a corral. Guns were slung on
loops on the outside of the wagons. We all
got together. Two of the boys had saddle
horses and were determined to see the In-
dians for themselves. We were on a slight
elevation. The two boys rode out into the
space between the creek and the bluffs. The
Indians cut them off from coming back at
once, then those boys saw the Indians and
what a race it was! There were about
twenty of us ambushed in a draw ready to
"get them as they went by, but the two boys
were so scared they gave us away by stop-
ping and the Indians dashed away out of
range. They circled till 10 in the morning.
About 1872, I farmed in Missouri and got
twenty cents for husked corn. Hauled oats
ten miles and sold it at twenty-six cents.
I ran a round-up in Weld County, Col-
orado, for four years for J. W. Auliff. It
comprised about forty thou -and cattle. Some-
times we would hold five thousand cattle in
one bunch. In 1882 I shipped two cars of
beef to Chicago and got sixty-five dollars
a head. I sold two hundred head of horses
at twelve dollars and a half a head. On the
round-up the cowboys worked from 4 A. M.
till 9 P. M. There was a captain to each
squad and each squad circled in short cir-
cles and held the cattle brought in. Squads
changed and each sought his Own cattle out
of each bunch. Each outfit had its own
chuck outfit. Often it would take all day to
separate cattle.
In 1876 we had eighteen cavoy yards, so
many men assigned to move cattle and a few
to circle. We always branded the calves as
we found them on the range.
Cheyenne was a tough town of cowmen,
gamblers, soldiers, desperadoes. Charley
Martin and Mosier were hung for murder.
Cheyenne had a vigilance committee all the
time.
The cattle men went out to get cattle rust-
lers in the "cattleman's war." The rustlers
met them and shut them up in a cabin on a
mountain side. Mr. Gilchrist and I notified
Washington. Soldiers arrived just in time
10
to prevent the cattlemen from being burned
to death. Many of the rustlers were des-
peradoes from all over the west and would
stop at nothing.
In October, 1871, there was a snow two
feet deep which crusted and lay all winter.
Auliff lost three thousand head of Texas
cattle that year. S. B. Hunter moved sheep
up to Jackson's Springs and I was out rid-
ing one day when a terrible blizzard came
up. I had a post-bar (railroad pinch bar)
with me and my hands nearly froze before I
got home. Two men from Jaegers with
lumber came up to Duck Creek. Hunter
started out after the posts at about two
o'clock. There was an awful storm and
he did not get back. I wrapped up well and
started to look for him. A spring ran down
to the main road so I followed its course.
I found the wagon. The old man had gone
to look for the ranchmen who brought the
posts. Standing in the road I fired my
pistol and he found me. We got back about
eight o'clock and the old man's heavy beard
was solid ice.
This man Auliff and two Durbins, Tom
Kent and Banten and Kirkendall were the
stock association. A. Banten got on a drunk
and killed a brother named Brian. The Ban-
tens are gone now. Two men by the name
of Coffee settled where I built a cabin on
Sib3rlee. The road through old Fort Wal-
bach went over through the Lannen place.
It go so in later 3'ears of freighting that the
grass got so short along the wagon trails,
that we had to go back three or four miles
to get feed.
I sent the assistant wagon master one
trip to Denver to take some men back from
the Farthing place while I went down the
Poudre to old Fort Morgan and camped
till the teams came back. Then I went to
Julesburg and loaded with corn for Fort
Casper. The man I loaded for was named
Wright. I pulled out of Nebraska City in
July and never heard of Wright for five
months. I unloaded the corn at Casper and
pulled into Laramie, then went into winter
quarters on the Chug. There were no set-
tlements. I had no money, so I took the
best steers of the ox team and sold them in
Laramie. About three hours after I met
Wright. He had been very sick. He hired
me to go back to Leavenworth and then to
Texas where he wanted to buy cattle, trail
them to Wyoming and run them on the
Sibylee. He took sick again so I went back
to Missouri.
There was a braggart with the outfit once
who was always killing scores of Indians in
his mind. The boys framed-up on him. A
bunch went and hid in a clump of willows,
then the night herder told the rest of us that
his favorite steer was mired down by that
willow clump. We, and the braggart, hur-
ried down to get him out. Suddenly came
a burst of gun fire from the willows. We all
fell as if shot, all except our brave hero who
ran and hid in the wagon from which place
we dragged him when we got back.
In 1864 at Plumb Creek on the Platte, I
loaded out for Denver. On one of the wa-
gons bossed by another man was a fourteen
year old boy. The man gave him a beating
and he came over to my wagons. I told him
he had better go back to his dad's outfit and
he said, "I'll go, but he had better let me
alone." The man jumped him again and the
boy shot him in the breast with buck-shot.
The father wanted to have the boy arrested
but they let him off and he ran the outfit
then.
July, 1922.
(Corrected as to spelling and capitalization)
Dayton, Ohio, Jan. 29, '03.
Have received book and letter Jan. 23, '03,
four years I got one of General Miles book,
one volume 600 pages full of pictures called
from New England to the Golden Gate or
General Miles, 20 years on the Plains with
general photos. It is a heavy book printed
by Werner & Company, Chicago and at Ak-
ron, Ohio. Your book is interesting reading,
Bridger and other scouts whom I seen, also
photos of Forts Casper, Fetterman, Laramie,
Reno, which looks natural to me I have not
seen since 1868, abandoned now. I never
forget the hardships 18 U. S. Infantry had
seen in 1865-68; few living yet that had good
constitution, to march from Kansas City from
end of railroad to Fort Leavenworth and
from last Fort across Kansas, Colorado Ter-
ritory with wagon train December 1865, some
died on the road. The first battalion marched
to Forts Riley and Dodge, Kansas, we arriv-
ed last Fort dug out last of January 1866
moved out with cold and sore feet met In-j
dians on the road. We were iost in western
Kansas off the old Santa Fe trail, we rested
at Fort Dodge Kansas. Denver was a small
village we went on to Fort Collins, Colo;
marched through where Cheyenne is, no
town and railroad I seen, that was May,1
1866, we went on to Fort Laramie then up
Platte river to where city of Casper is now.
I think the first part of June 1866, set our
tents I was detailed to build Fort Casper,
8 men of us got extra pay, rest of the troops
cut and hauled logs from Casper Mountain
they were well armed on account of Indians
they were troublesome then. The Fort wasj
finished close to the winter of 1866, roof and
floor were dirt no lumber. Few soldiers
were killed near Sweetwater telegraph sta-
tion. Late spring 1867 we went to Fort Fet-
terman built that of sun-dried brick on high
ground, we left four troops at Fort Casper
for guard. I understand the bridge at Cas- I
per was burnt by Indians in 1868. Fall of
1867 we were ordered to Fort Reno, Powder
river, seen many Indians there where we
wintered and guarded supply trains to Ft. !
Phil Kearney and night skirmish on Crazy
Woman Creek. We remained at Fort Reno
till August 1868, when it was abandoned with
Phil Kearney and Ft. Smith, Montana which
was a sight, wagons loading up. Fort Cas-
per route was a dangerous route we carried
mail to Bridger's Ferry and Ft. Laramie
where troops lost their lives. Mr. Shallen-
berger of Casper City in '98 sent me photo
of that town, I never thought of a town and
railroad. What a change. I was at Fort
Casper, December 1866 when we got news
17
)f Phil Kearney massacre, we stayed up of
lights fearing Indians might massacre us.
Fort Reno was a cold place in winter 1868
:he guards were relieved every half hour.
El September we arrived at Ft. D. A. Rus-
sell near Cheyenne a small post, guarding
Jnion Pacific Railroad in Wyoming, western
Nebraska, the Indians burning wooden trestle
vorks I was one of the guards, Nov. 1868.
. was honorably discharged, rheumatism and
icurvy bothers me now, a trip on Union Pa-
;ific railroad sent me back free to the East
November, 1868, Colonel Carrington with
tart of 18th, U. S. Infantry fall of 1865 went
rom Fort Leavenworth to Fort Kearney,
Nebraska to winter till spring 1866.
I was born near Middleton, Pennsylvania
1843, 10 years old moved to back woods
fcmntry of Indiana cleared up the country,
inlisted Indianapolis, Indiana November
.865, when my 3 years were up came to
Indiana worked on a farm but my rheuma-
ism and scurvy bothered me went to Hot
Springs, Arkansas. But still I have rheu-
natism, can't work like used too, the great
lardships in the west, hunger alkali water
lid hurt me. From Indiana I came to Day-
on, Ohio sometime ago. The largest Na-
ional soldiers Home in country is here, 6000
soldiers very beautiful place, excursions
jfifrgs people here in summer, 640 acres in
t and few 18th U. S. regiment boys in it,
'. don't belong to it. Some years back I
ook Cheyenne paper, The Leader but give
t up. I seen in Leader about Tom Foster,
Buffalo, Wyoming he bought Fort Phil Kear-
ley reservation for farming I used to write
lim but lately he used to write to me that I
vould not know the country now taken up
>y miners and farmers.
Yours truly,
(Signed) ERNEST POPE, 1865-68
L,ate A. Co. 1st Battalion, 18 U. S. Infantry.
General Delivery.
I read day and night in winter days the
)ook is good reading because I was on Boze-
nan and other roads in Wyoming and seen
immigrant trains to Utah and Pacific States
it Fort Casper 1866, beautiful snow moun-
ain in far distance in the summer, stationed
it Fort Reno, The Big Horn Mountains was
i nice sight in distance. Your book shows
i map of Ft. Phil Kearney I. got a small his-
:ory of Col. Carrington own writing it has
i map of Phil Kearney same as your book,
[ had the book think 20 years. Excuse bad
writing mistakes I make, I thought would
nention the hardships 18th regiment cross-
ng the plains from Fort Leavenworth Kan-
sas winter 1865-66, no railroads, I have writ-
:en a long history of 18th regiment but it
:an be made shorter. I presume no sign of
Ft. Phil Kearney stockade all gone I was
:here after the massacre guarding supply
:rains to Ft. Phil Kearney, I seen it was a
jood Fort and stockade and mountainous
;ountry rich in mineral I presume. Your
)ook I very near read through reading all
:he time, book put me in mind way back
lays in Wyoming. Is the 2nd Volume same
price. I was thinking of few weeks visit
to Indians which is close by we travel cheap
in the East, electric railway, 1 ]4 cent a mile.
About 2nd volume I will buy later on when
you have it printed. I lost track of my Cap-
tain Lyman M. Kellogg of my Company 18th
regiment when we built Ft. Casper 1866, he
was there. I suppose will find his name at
Washington on the book if living. Will
send stamp for reply, I thank you; these
letters bad hand write.
ERNEST POPE, 18th regiment.
Dayton Ohio. G. D.
From Record A, Page 1, Surveyor General's
Office, Cheyenne, Wyoming.
149 Warren Ave.,
Boston, Mass.
Feb. 28th, 1870.
Hon. Jos. S. Wilson,
Com. General Land Office,
Washington, D. C.
Sir:—
I have the honor to state that in my con-
firmation by the Senate, for Surveyor Gen-
eral of Wyoming Territory occurred on the
18th, instant. 1 have therefore to request
that when it shall suit your convenience, you
will forward the blank Official Bond to my
address, here in order that I may execute it
in this city before returning to Missouri,
which may not be practicable for some time
yet.
Very respectfully,
Your Obedient Servant,
(Signed) SILAS REED.
149 Warren Avenue,
Boston, Mass.
March 24th, 1870.
Hon. Jos. S. Wilson,
Corn. General Land Office,
Washington, D. C.
Sir:—
I have the honor to inclose herewith my
Official Bond for the office of Surveyor Gen-
eral of Wyoming Territory made out on yes-
terday and which I hope will be found to be
strictly in accordance with your instructions.
Sickness has prevented the immediate exe-
cution of the Bond. Be pleased to acknowl-
edge the receipt hereof and also to inform
me to what place I shall repair for the loca-
tion of the office.
I shall proceed to Wyoming early next
month where I hope to be ready to com-
mence the surveys as soon as the weather
will permit.
I remain sir,
Your obedient servant,
(Signed) SILAS REED.
149 Warren Avenue,
Boston, Mass.
April 2nd, 1870.
Hon. Jos. S. Wilson,
Commissioner Gen. Land Office,
Washington, D. C.
Sir:—
I have the honor to request that if my
commission has not been mailed to me at this
place before this reaches you, you will direct
it to me at St. Louis upon receipt of this,
18
care of H. W. Leffingwell, Number 320
Chestnut Street.
I am obliged to leave for that city on Mon-
day the 4th instant.
I learn from Wvoming that efforts are
making to prevent the location of the Land
Office at Cheyenne. I trust no such move-
ment will induce Secretary Cox to place the
office west of the Laramie Mountains at
least not until the work in eastern Wyoming
is well advanced.
Very respectfully,
Your obedient servant,
(Signed) SILAS REED,
Surveyor General, Wyoming Territory.
P. S. — I- shall be glad to go to Wyoming
and commence operations as soon as you
shall instruct me where to open the office
and what to do.
St. Louis, Missouri,
May 19th, 1870.
Hon. S. F. Nuckolls,
Washington, D. C.
Dear Sir: — •
I am in receipt of your two acceptable let-
ters of the 13th and" 16th, for which I feel
much obliged to you, I also have one from
the commissioner of the 11th, informing me
that he will forward instructions to Cheyenne
in a few days.
I fear this does not mean instructions to
commence work immediately — although I un-
derstand the appropriation matter there is
nothing lacking but for office rent, etc.
I shall leave for Cheyenne again within
three or four days and see what I find to do
there and one company of men go with me
to begin work. I hope they will not have to
wait long on expense.
The Commissioner said last winter we
must not survey where there was danger
from Indians. If he adheres to this idea we
could not run a line ten miles away from
even the larger villages. We can do literally
nothing on lines of any length without some
protection and the Surveyor General has no
authority to ask for military protection. Will
you please have some conversation with Mr.
Wilson on these points and write to me at
Cheyenne, his views as well as your own.
I am pleased to hear the good opinion
from Cheyenne spoken of in your letter, I
shall do what I can properly both to secure
and retain the good opinion of the people, of
that, to me, interesting new country, Wyo-
ming.
Very respectfully,
Your obedient servant,
(Signed) SILAS REED.
Surveyor General's Office,
Cheyenne, Wvoming Territory,
May 31st, 1870.
Hon. Jos. S. Wilson,
Com. General Land Office,
Washington, D. C.
Sir:—
I have the honor to offer some sugges-
tions as to the best manner of expending the
appropriation for Surveys in Wyoming, re-
ferred to in your instruction fo the 16th in-
stant.
I propose to expend about one-half or one-
third of the appropriation of $25,000 in this
vicinity as follows: 1st, in extending the
8th Guide Meridian only 24 miles at present
as it is unsafe to proceed farther north until
we learn the result of the visit of Red Cloud
at Washington; 2nd, in establishing the 4th
correction line eastward to the east Boun-
dary of Wyoming, in the vicinity of Pine
Bluffs, say 20 to 24 miles; 3rd, in running the
4th correction line West to the Laramie
range about 36 miles; 4th, in establishing the
township and section lines in the neighbor-
hood of this city where the principal settle-
ments are confined at present.
The balance of the appropriation of $25,-
000 ought to be expended in surveying the
vicinity of Laramie city on the west side of
the Laramie range, where agriculturists and
stock-growers are rapidly extending their
settlements, the section of counrty being the
southern edge of the Laramie plains near to
the above city, and where settlers are justly
clamorous for surveys to be made.
To effect this object it would be necessary
to establish the 9th Guide Meridian which
will run from Sherman and then extend
westward therefrom the 4th and 5th correc-
tion lines one-half if not the whole distance
to the 10 Guide when run.
The 4th correction would probably pass
a few miles north of Laramie City.
But you do not make any reference to the
establishing of the 9th Guide and I am not
advised whether it is extended northward in
Colorado to the boundary of Wyoming.
If it be practicable and in accordance with
your policy I have no hesitation in recom-
mending the surveys of the 9th Guide at ;
least 48 miles into Wyoming and the 4th
and 5th correction lines west at least 24
miles so that the inhabitants of the enter-
prising and flourishing city of Laramie and
its vicinity may be accommodated with the
most necessary section surveys this season.
I propose to begin with a small contract
in the name of Edwin James and Henry G.
Hay, both competent men and the former
a Deputy in Missouri and Iowa in past years.
The contract not to exceed $2,000.00 and
to include the survey of the 8th Guide Meri-
dian from the 3rd to the 4th correction lines
the survey of the 4th correction line to the
East boundary of Wyoming say 20 to 24
miles and west 36 miles to the foot of the
Laramie range. Also the exteriors of town-
ships 13 and 14th ranges 65, 66, 67 and 68
west which will enable subdividing to go on
around this city and down the valley of Crow
Creek to the South boundary of Wyoming
and 24 miles along Union Pacific in this vi-
cinity.
In conclusion I have to request most earn-
estly that in regard to the 1st small contract
you will wave your regulation of requiring
the approval of the contract before the Depu-
ties commence work in the field and permit
them in this only instance I shall have oc-
casion to request it to proceed to the field
as soon as the contract is made in due form
with your office.
I make this unusual request because the
expense of living here is perfectly ruinous
19
id it would consume two of the best weeks
: the season in waiting your approval and
iturn of the contract.
If you shall be pleased to grant this ample
aviation from rule, I will thank you to make
known to me by telegraph immediately
jon the receipt of this letter.
Very respectfully,
Your obedient servant,
(Signed) SILAS REED,
Surveyor General of Wyoming Territory.
Surveyor General's Office,
Cheyenne, Wvo. Territory,
June 8, 1870. "
. F. Davis, Esq.,
and Com., Union Pacific R. R.,
maha, Nebraska.
ear Sir:
I regret the necessity of requesting your
iendly aid once more, but so many obstac-
s arise to delay my men from taking the
:ld that they are almost discouraged.
Upon my arrival here I understand our
overnor to say that arrangements had been
ade for military protection for my Deputies
the field Accordingly on yesterday (in
e absence of the Governor at Washington)
called to see General King on the subject
id~4e^arned from him that no order had been
ceived from General Augur in relation
ereto and that I must apply to General
ugur myself.
I am not authorized to call for protection
ough I find, the universal sentiment pre-
liling here that my Deputies are not safe
om attack by Indians 10 miles from this
wn. I will probably have only one com-
my in the field for some weeks hence and
ey will not go farther from here than is
quired to run the 4th correction line to the
:tent noted in my letter of 6th instant.
Deputies cannot make headway in work
id watch for Indians too. I beg leave there-
re to request that you will lay the subject
iore General Augur and ascertain whether
: cause some protection to be furnished
om this post and if so, whether he will
der half a dozen stands of extra arms to
: taken out by the soldiers — to be used by
rveyors in case of attack — or if preferred
' him to be sold to the Deputies.
I may add that I noticed soldiers here who
Duld be benefitted and become more useful
' being awhile in the field.
Please to let hear from you at your earliest
■nvenience — for our instruments arrived
sterday and the Deputies are ready to be-
n work.
Very respectfully,
Your obedient Servant,
SILAS REED,
Surveyor Gen. Wyo. Tyty.
Surveyor General's Office,
Cheyenne, Wyoming Territory,
June 13, 1870.
on. H. Glafcke,
;cy and Acting Governor,
Wyoming Territory.
r : —
I am ready to commence the public sur-
veys of this Territory in the vicinity of Chey-
enne, but from the universally admitted dan-
ger from Indian hostility my Deputies are
unwilling to take the field without military
protection.
I propose to employ only one company for
the next month upon lines as follows, to-wit:
One line (the 8th Guide Meridian) to run
from the Colorado Boundary north 48 miles
passing Cheyenne 12 miles east. Two other
lines 78 miles long each running west from
the East line of Wyoming to the crest of
the Laramie range 24 and 48 miles from and
parallel to the South Boundary of Wyoming
and a few townships lines in the vicinity of
Cheyenne and the Union Pacific Railroad, as
shown by the inclosed diagram. The lines
to be run are those with the distance marked
in figures.
I can only suggest that you confer with
General Augur commanding the Department
of the Platte in relation to the necessity of
military protection and request that some
devise be obtained as soon as practicable.
I beg leave to add that my Deputies desire
authority from General Augur to purchase
at least 6 or 8, Sharps Carbines suited to Al-
iens Centre primed cartridge from the Ord-
nance Officer at the Post.
We ought to have about 20 men with this
company of Surveyors.
I am very respectfully,
Your obedient servant,
SILAS REED,
Surveyor General Wyo. Territory.
Headquarters Ft. D. A. Russell,
_ June 21, 1870.
To Dr. Silas Reed,
Surveyor General Wyo. Territory.
Sir:—
The commanding officer has been directed
to furnish your Surveying party with an es-
cort and desires to know when and where
the Sergeant in charge may report to the
Engineer.
Very respectfully,
Your obedient servant,
S HAY,
Brevet Maj. 1st Infantry.
Cheyenne, Wyoming Territory,
June 21st, 1870.
General J. H. King,
Fort D. A. Russell,
Dear Sir: —
I have to thank you for your note of last
evening informing me that I can have an
escort from Cavalry for my Surveying party.
I will go down on the train at two p. m.
tomorrow to Archer Station, to meet my
company there, where I would be pleased
to meet the escort if it should be convenient
for you to place them there, that soon.
Very respectfully,
Your obedient servant,
SILAS REED,
Surveyor General Wyoming Territory.
20
Surveyor General's Office,
Cheyenne, Wyoming Territory,
July 16th, 1870.
Gen'l J. H. King,
Commander at Ft. D. A. Russell.
Sir:—
I have the honor to inform you that in ac-
cordance with the intimation I gave you ver-
bally some days since that some of my Depu-
ties would furnish you a compass at the
earliest convient moment, for the survey of
the outer boundary lines of Fort Russell res-
ervation. I am now enabled to state that
H. G. Hay and J. B. Thomas, Deputies, with
their Solar compass volunteered to aid in the
Survey gratuitously on Monday next if that
will suit you.
I would suggest that you use rather heavy
stones for the corners and angles — and also
set stakes with mounds at every one-half
miles on each of the four mile lines count-
ing from the beginning of each line on the
direction to be surveyed.
You will need two chairman, two flagmen
and 2 or three men to set and mark the cor-
ner stones and stakes.
My Deputies will soon reach here with
their surveys and will be obliged to cross
their lines on the lines of the reservation.
Thus the necessity for the survey being
marked, as plainly as may be and completed
the coming week if convenient for you to
do so.
I am sir, very respectfully,
Your obedient servant,
SILAS REED,
Surveyor Gen. Wyoming Territory.
P. S. — The Deputies will need an ambul-
ance to carry the instruments to the place of
operation.
History
(Books)
Gifts from
Senator F. F. Warren, sketch of Ft. Rol
inson (illustrated), by Maj. Gen. W. H. Cai
ter, U. S. A., retired.
John Clay, 1923 Live Stock Markets, Vo
ume 33.
Mr. C. Nines, The Black Hills, by Mr;
Annie E. Tallent.
Mr. C. S. Baker, Volume 1, Coutant's Hi<
tor\^.
Mrs. Roy E. Riford, Record 1889, Rawlin
Public School.
Purchased by State Historical Departmen
The Frontier Trail, by Col. Homer \\
Wheeler, U. S. Cav., retired, autograph copy
An Army Boy of the Sixties, by Major A. E
Ostrander; The National Parks; Reminis
censes of Alex Topence; The American Gov
ernment, by Frederick J. Haskin; Shoshon
Folk Lore, by Sarah Emelia Olden.
NOTE — These Surveyor's notes were
taken from the manuscript records in the
Surveyor General's office, Cheyrenne, by the
courtesy of Surveyor General Atherly.
ACCESSIONS
December 31, 1923, to March 31, 1924
(Museum)
Gifts from
Editor Cook, picture of Father Camisky.
Mr. Joe Wilde, picture of Mr. Wilde's resi-
dence, group picture of Red Angus, Posey
Ryan, Mr. and Mrs. John Owens, Joe Wilde.
Judge J. R. Arnold, wall map of United
States, 1858.
Mr. William J. MacDonald, Wilson badge.
Mr. Rov E. Riford, picture of Capt. Thos.
Miller, 1808; picture of Company C, W. N.
G., Buffalo, 18
Mr. A. E. Watts — Two Indian Saddles
from old Fort Washakie; Sioux Indian Neck-
lace; Arapahoe gambling game; old ceremon-
ial knife; horseshoe found on Custer battle
field; tomahawk; Indian peace pipe; vest
worn by "Miss Wyoming" on trip east to
advertise Frontier Days, 1920.
Mr. E. A. Logan — Horseshoe from the old
Ft. l_,aramie stock.
Donald E. Crain, loaned, Deringer revol-
ver, 1871.
Purchased by State Historical Department,
map of United States; map of Wyoming.
Miscellaneous
Gifts from
Mrs. J. H. Burgess, original manuscript.
Mrs. Gertrude Merrill, original manuscripl
Col. H. W. Wheeler, original manuscripl
Mrs. Charles Stone, original manuscript.
• Judge C. N. Potter, legal document March
1875.
Mr. William Hooker, R. R. Bond, Wiscon
sin. Repudiated 1857.
Dr. Grace R. Hebard, Index miscellaneou:
papers.
Bishop Thomas, ten dollars.
E. A. Brinninstool, pamphlet.
AMONG THE BOOKS
"The Frontier Trail," by Homer W
Wheeler, Col. U. S. Cav. (retired) has jusj
been published. Colonel Wheeler served witl
the old Fifth and the Eleventh Cavalry and
saw 38 years active service. As Indian
fighter and army officer he knew Wyoming
"My Experiences at Fort Washakie" appear-
ing in this Bulletin is from Colonel Wheeler's
pen and he has presented the manuscript tc
the Wyoming State Historical Department
"The Frontier Trail" is published by th<
Times-Mirror Press of Los Angeles and th(
price is $3.00, Illustrated.
"An Army Boy of the Sixties, or a Story
of the Plains" by Major A. B. Ostrander
is a recently published book which contain!
history of the Indian troubles in Wyomidj
and many entertaining stories of array offil
cers and life on the Plains. Major Ostrandej
served in the Civil War and with the regulai
army during the Indian wars in Wyoming
He has presented his manuscript of this bool
to the State Historical Department of Wyo
ming. Published by World Book Company
New York. $2.25.
"Reminiscences by Alex Toponce" is an
other book that has just been brought out
It contains much early history of Wyoming
The book is published by Mrs. Toponce o
Ogden, Utah, and is priced at $3.00.
The Wyoming State Historical Depart
ment has purchased these three books.