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ELEVENTH  ANNUAL 


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AMERICAN 


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DAlliYMEFS  ASSOOiATlOS, 


TRANSACTIONS  AND  ADDRESSES, 


FOK   THE   YEAR    1875. 


ROCFIESTEn,  N.  T.; 

riEMOCKAT    AND    UilKOSU'l.E    BlXlK    AM>   -H'll    I'KIMINn    HiUSK, 
1870. 


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INDEX 

TO   THE 

ELEVENTH    ANNUAL    REPORT 

OF   THE 

AMERICAN  DAIRYMEN'S  ASSOCIATION. 


List  of  Officers '> 

List  of  Members !> 

Transactions 1  ^ 

llovieAV  of  the  Year — L.  B.  Arnold 1~ 

Ninevah — Artenias  Ward l-'j 

Hints  in  Cheese  Making— C.  L.  Sheldon 21 

Whole  Milk  Cheese— J.  G.  Cuhoe S.-i 

Sketches  of  English  Cheese  Making  and  Personal  T^xpi'rienecs— Seth  Bonfoy,  29 

Dairy  Stock— Prof.  L.  Wetherell HI 

Dairy  Farming — Eastburn  Reeder 43 

Modification  of  Swedish  Deep-Setting — L.  S.  Hardin 48 

A  Farmer's   Experience  in  Making  Bntter  from  Short  Horns — Hon.  Harris 

•     Lewis OG 

Heating  Milk  for  Bntter  and  Skim  CUieese — T.  T.  Ellsworth 59 

Factory  Butter  Making— L.  D.  Paddock 62 

Color  in  Butter  Globules fi7 

Experimental  Dairy  Station— Prof.  E.  W.  Stewart 69 

Centennial — Horace  J.  Smith 73 

Dairy  Connnerce — J.  M.  Peters 75 

Centennial  Resolutions 83 

Causes  Affecting  the  Cheese  Inter(>st — J.  H.  Reall 83 

Plain  Prece])ts  for  Patrons  and  Cheese  Makers — Robert  McAdani 93 

(Complimentary  Resolution 98 

Centennial  Discus.sion 99 

Dairy  Manufacturing,  Quality  vs.  Qnantit.y — W.  Jeffreys 100 

Preservation  of  iVIilk- Prof.  (^.  C.  Caldwell 104 


OFFICERS  OF  THE  ASSOCIATION 

F-OR   1876. 


PRESIDENT  : 

Hox.  HOEATIO  SEYMOUR,  of  Oxeida. 

VICE    PRESIDENTS  : 

X.  A.  WILLAED,  of  Herkimer. 

T.  D.  CUETIS,  OF  Onondaga. 

0.  S.  BLISS,  of  Vermont. 

DAVID  W.   LEWIS,  of  New  York  City. 

M.  FOLSOM,  OF  New  York  City. 

STEPLEN  FAVILLE.  of  Wisconsin. 

CHAS.  HOUSE,  OF  Lewis. 

G.  B.  WEEKS,  OF  Onondaga. 

WM.  BLANDING,  of  Broome. 

C.  E.  CHADWICK,  of  Canada. 

J.  LEWIS,  OF  Cattabaugus. 

Dr.  GEORGE  F.  COLE,  of  St.  Lawrence. 

A.  M.  FULLEE,  of  Pennsylvania. 

L.  W.  MILLEE,  of  Chautauqua 

E.  A.  AYEES,  OF  Jefferson. 

F.  KEELEE,  of  Cattaraugus. 

G.  E.  MOEEOW,  of  Illinois. 

C.  F.  WHITTIEE,  of  Minnesota. 
JOHN  T.  ELLSWOETH,  of  Massachusetts. 
Hon.  WM.  A.  JOHNSON,  of  Erie. 
Dr.  L.  L.  WIGHT,  of  Oneida. 
S.  STEAIGHT,  of  Ohio. 
CHESTEE  HAZEN,  of  Wisconsin. 
Prof.  L.  WETHEEELL,  of  Massachusi^tts 
A.  B.  LAMONT,  of  Tompkins. 
EDWAED  NOETON,  of  Connecticut. 
•■P.  H.  BUECHAED,  of  Illinois. 
C.  H.  AVILDEE.  of  Wisconsin. 
0.  0.  BLODGETT,  of  Chautauqua. 
DAVID  H.  BUEEILL,  of  Herkimer. 
J.  M.  PETEES,  of  New  York  City 
S.  A.  FAEEINGTON,  of  Pennsylvania. 

SECRETARY  : 

L.  B.  AENOLD,  Eochester,  New  York. 

TREASURER: 

Hon.  HAEEIS  LEWIS,  Frankfort,  Herkimer  Co..  N.  Y. 


pri:faratory  remarks. 


The  addresses  and  discussions  which  make  up  the  11th  annual 
report  of  the  American  Dairymen's  Association — 13th  since  the  or- 
ganization began — will  be  found  interesting  alike  to  the  practical 
man  and  the  student  of  Dairy  Husbandry. 

Fewer  novelties  than  usual  were  presented  this  year,  but  those 
which  were  brought  forward  promise  to  be  useful. 

The  new  system  of  butter  making,  introduced  by  L.  S.  Hardin,  of 
Kentucky,  presents  some  novel  and  valuable  features.  The  ncAv 
method  of  making  butter  and  cheese  from  heated  milk,  introduced 
by  John  T.  Ellsworth,  of  Massachusetts,  promises  to  be  of  great  value 
in  utilizing  skim-milk.  It  is  the  most  important  advance  lately 
made  in  cheese  making,  as  it  enables  the  manufacturer  to  so  perfectly 
cure  skim  cheese,  as  to  make  of  it  a  palatable,  nutritious  and  whole- 
some food,  thus  sohing  the  problem  of  the  economical  use  of  skim- 
milk,  which  lias  so  long  baffled  the  skill  of  the  best  experts. 

The  papers  and  discussions  on  the  manufacture  uf  butter  and 
cheese  are  all  sound  and  practical,  and  the  address  on  Dairy  Stock  is 
a  clear,  comprehensive  and  reliable  paper  which  will,  for  many  a 
year,  be  preserved  for  reference.  These  papers  together  with  those 
of  a  commercial  character,  and  the  interest  developed  by  the  paper  on 
an  Experimental  Dairy  Station,  and  the  action  in  regard  to  the  Cen- 
tennial Exhibition,  made  the  proceedings  of  the  convention,  as 
thoy  do  the  report,  interesting  and  valuable. 


Rochester,  N.   Y.,  March  Ist,  187G. 


h.  K  ARNOLD, 

Secretary. 


ARTICLES  OF  ASSOCIATION. 

_ — —•-♦-« — — — 

WHBEBAS,  It  is  deemed  e^.pf  eut  to  mer^e  the  New  York  State 
Cheese  Manufactnvevs'  Association    «hi<^hwao^gam7e  ^^.^^^ 

di'seminated  to  the  dairymg  community ;  therefore, 
\..ol..r.  That  we,  the  -cler.giied    do  here,^  ^ 

t?r;e':«ciS5^«o':;r;rtin^^ 

""':':  I.   The  name  of  the  organisation  shall  he  The  American 
°"irnTr:«::::o.theAssociationsha,lconsistofaPresideut, 

shaU^itethe  Executive  Board  of  the  Association 

APT  IV  The  Officers  of  the  Association  shall  ",«=  'j^^^-^J^?' J,! 
regifteannual  meeting,  and  shall  .retain  their  offices  until  then 
celsors  are  chosen.  second 

'rn~clirslX.titl^ir!othe  Annual  Seport  for  the  cur- 

"  AMri;M™.r.-The  Secretaiy  ^'^^ ^^^i^cS^^Z 
Assistant  Secretai7  ^  .-^f'-J'  f."f  ^f  „*t,  b     aSgned  to  him,  and,  in 
and  discharge  such  other  duties  ^^  '"^Z  !";^     jg  ^.et,  to  temporardy 
Siai^'th^'aX-^f'that  oLi; 'i^b^i:;g  dislnetly  un^^ 
fio  compensation  is  attached  thereto.  ,„.,,  Conven- 

j-^i"7ii!:'^sjiy  r  ::^1»^^- -^- 

Annual  Eeport.J 


LIST  OF  MEMBERS 

OF   THE 

AMERICAN    DAIRYMEN'S    ASSOCIATION. 

FOR  THE  YEAR  1876. 


Arnold,  L.  B.,  Rochester,  N.  Y. 

Abbot,  E.,  Camden,  Oneida  co.,  N.  Y. 

Andrews.  J.  P.,  Attiea,  Wyoming  Co.,  N.  Y. 

Armstrong,  A.  B.,  Dorset,  Vt. 

Ashley,  Harford.  Bellville,  Ont.  Canada. 

Adams,  James  C.,  Springfield  Centre,   OtBego 

CO.,  N.  Y. 
Ayers,  E.  A.,  Watertowu,  N.  Y. 

Blanding,  Wm.,  Hawleytown,  Broome  co,,  N,Y- 
Bonfoy."Geo.  A.,  West  Winfleld,  Herkimer  co., 

N.  Y. 
Bonfoy.  Seth,  West  Winfield,  Herkimer  co., 

N.  Y. 
Blandiug,  F.,  Brookfleld,  Madison  co.,  N.  Y. 
Brooks.  M.  C.,  Bowen's  Corners,  Oswego  co., 

N.  Y. 
Beech.  E.  C.  Fish  Creek  Station. 
Broadbent,  Frank,   Trov,  86  North  M.  street, 

N.  Y. 
Bradley,  E.  P..  35  Elizabeth  street,  Utica,  N.  Y. 
Browne.  O.  L.  F.,  SjTacuse,  N.  Y. 
Baker,  J.  C,  Corry.  Erie  co.,  Penna. 
Burleigh,  J.  P.,  Verona,  Oneida  co.,  N.  Y. 
Brockway.  H.  C. 

Burgess,  A.  F.,  Erieville,  Madison  co.,  N.  Y. 
Bussey,  A.  P..  Westernville.  Oneida  co.,  N.  Y. 
Briggs,  C.  W.,  Sennet,  N.  Y. 
Briggs,  David.  Durhamville.  Oneida  co.,  N.  Y. 
Bleuis,  J.  W.,  Salisbury  Centre,  Herk.  co.,  N.Y. 
Bartlet,  J.  W.,  Ava,  Queida  co..  N.  Y. 
Baird.  J.,  Van,  Hornesville,  Herkimer  co..  N.Y. 
Ball.  S..  Unadilla  Forks,  Otsego  co.,  N.  Y. 
Bacon.  Hiram. 
Bliss,  O.  S.,  Georgia,  Vt. 
Bigger.  J.  M.,  Cambridgeboro,  Pa. 
Blogett,  O.  C.  Fredonia,  Chautau(iua  Co..  N.  Y. 
Blanchard,  Flint,  Jamestown,  Chautaucjua  co., 
Boise,  W.  B.,  Marengo,  111. 
Brown,  James  P.,  Utica,  N.  Y. 

Clark,  n.  T..  Vernon,  Oneida  co.,  N.  Y. 
Cheesebro,  Dennison  S.,  Geddes,  Onondaga  co.. 

N.  Y. 
Cory,  Norman.,  Tj'aburg,  Qnedia  co  ,  N.  Y. 
C^d  ,  O.,  FreevUle,  Tompkins  co.,  N.  Y. 
Clark,  J,  H.,  South  Albion,  Oswego  co.,  N.  Y. 
(Jaswell,  E,.  Ingersoi,  Canada. 
Chadwick,  C.  E.,  Ingersoi,  Canada. 
Converse,  Edward,  Sterlingvillc,  Jefferson  co., 

N.Y. 
Carter,  A.  B. 

Curtis,  F.  H..  Brier  Hill,  St.  Lawrence  co.,  N.Y. 
Crill,  Geo.  W,,  North  Western.  Oneida  co.,  N.Y. 
(-Carroll,  John.  Salisburv.  Herkimer  co.,  N.  Y. 
Creaser,  W.  L..Hecla  Works,  Oneida  CO.,  N.  Y. 
Chandler,  A..  Berne.  N.  Y. 
Chapman.  L.  P.,  Randolph,  Wis. 
Cahoe.  J.  (i.,  Fredonia.  N.  Y. 
Caldwell,  Prof.  G.  C,  Ithaca,  N.  Y. 
Curtis,  T.  D..  Syracuse,  N.  Y. 
Cooper,   Madison,  Evans  Mills.  Jeflfersou  co., 

N.  Y. 
Craft,  Dr.  E.  G.,  Biughamton,  N,  Y. 
Crocker,  Col.  O.  C,  BinEcharngton,  N.  Y. 
Cole,  Dr.  G.  F.,  Canton,  St.  Lawrence  co.,  N.Y. 
Cnrtis,  D.  W.,  Fort  Atkinson,  Wis. 
Chapman,  John  R.,  Oneida  Lake,  N.  Y. 

Dibble,  A.  J.,  Franklin,  Delaware  Co.,  N.  Y. 

Deye,  Thomas. 

Dennis,  J.  2d,  Berue,  N.  Y. 


Davison,  J.  W.,  Frankfort,  Herkimer  co.,  N.  Y. 

Ellis,  E.  G.,  Utica,  N.  Y. 

Ehle,  M.  P.,  Edwardsville,  St.  Lawrence  co., 

N.  Y. 
Ellison,  Jacob,  Middleville.  Herkimer  co„  N.Y. 
Edwards.  J.  J.,  Canajoharie,  Montgomery  co., 

N.  Y. 
Eaton,  Aaron,  Hannibal,  N.  Y. 
Ellsworth,  John  T.,  Barre.  Mass. 
Freeman,  H.  O..  Sherburne  Chenango  co.,  N  Y. 
Farrington,  Harvey,   Norwich,   Oxford,  Ont., 

Canada. 
Fairchild,  E.  B.,  Fairfield,  Herkimer  co.,  N.  Y. 
Folsom.  M..  70  Warren  street,  N.  York  City, 

N.  Y. 
Franklin,  F.,  Hammond,  St.  Lawrence  co.,  N.Y. 
Fox.  Geo.  A.,  Loraine,  Jefferson  co.,  N.  Y. 
Eraser,  R.  L.,  Westernville,  Oneida  co.,  N.  Y. 
Fobes,  Lindenville,  Ohio. 
Fogarty.  Jerry,  Springfield  Centre,  Otsego  co., 

N.Y. 
Fuller,  J.  E.,  Floyd,  N.  Y. 
Frisbie,  C.  P. 
Fuller,  W,  H. 

Fuller.  A.  M.,  Meadville,  Pa. 
Faville,  Stephen,  Lake  Mills,  Wis. 
Farrington,  S.  A.,  Cambridgeboro,  Pa. 
(irierson.  J.  H.,  Herkimer,  Herkimer  co.,  N.  Y. 
Gates,  Wm.  M..  Whitesboro.  Oneida  co.,  N.  Y. 
Golden,  R.,  Little  Falls.  Herkimer  co.,  N.  Y. 
Guthrie.  T.  G.,  Shelbyville,  Shelby  co.,  Ky. 
GuUer,  J.  M.,  Edwardsville,  St.  Lawrence  co., 

N.Y, 
Guller,  James,  Oswegatchie,  N.  Y. 
Gray,  Alex.,  Rome,  N.  Y. 
Gregg,  .John. 

Gifford,  C,  O.,  Eayetteville,  Onondaga  co.,  N.Y. 
Greggorans,  William,  Lee.  N.  Y. 
Gardiner,  Capt.  H.  D.,  McLean,  Tompkins  co., 

N.Y. 
Gold,  T.  S.,  M'est  Cornwall,  Conn. 
Green,  H.  Cooley,  Meadville.  Pa. 
(duller.  Gilbert,  Forestel,  St.  Charles  co..  Mo. 
Gleason.  Hon.  G.  M..  Governeur.  N.  Y. 
Gillett,  Harris,  Sidney  Plains,  .Jefferson  co.,N.T. 
Humphreys,  Robert,  Jr. ,  Prospect,  Oneida  co., 

N.  Y. 
Huffman,   H.   C,  Horseheads,  Chemung  Co., 

NY. 
Hardin,  L.  S.,  Louisville.  Ky. 
Huntington,  Edward,  Rome,  N.  Y. 
Hannum,  H.  A.,  Cazenovia.  Madison  c«.,  N.  Y. 
Harris,  Thomas  E.,  Weal  Winfield,  Herkimer 

CO..  N.  Y. 
Hutchinson,  Geo.  W.,  Port  Bvron,  Cayufira  co., 

N.Y.  -        .       J    « 

Higgins,  John,  Spefdsville,  Tompkins  co.,  N.Y. 
Hughes,  Stone  Mills,  Jefferson  co.,  N.  Y. 
Hays,  D.  A..  Cedarville.  Herkimer  ce..  N.  Y. 
Holmes.  C.  H.,  M'e!>t  Winfield.  Herkimer  co., 

N.  Y. 
Hnnt,  Olin,  Lairdsville,  N.  Y. 
Harris  B.,   J., Antwerp,  Jetterson  co.,  N.  Y. 
Hul>bel!,  J.  G.,  Groton.  Tompkins  co.,  N.  Y. 
Hawkins,  H,  T.,  Fort  Plain,  Montgomery  co., 

Hollis,  D.  D..  Woodville,  Jefferson  to.,  N.  Y. 

Hill,  C.  A.,  Oneida  Castle,  N.  Y. 

Holland.  A.  II.,  Barn-.  Mass. 

Hough,  Dr.  F.  B.,  Lowville,  Lewis  co,,  N.  Y. 

Ilegler,  J.  C.  Ingersoi,  Ont.,  Canada. 

Ilawley,  L.  T..  Syracuse,  N.  Y. 


10 


Harris,  Col.  S.  D.,  Hudson,  O. 

Hayward,  M.,  Weston,  Mich. 

House,  Charles,  Houseville,  Lewis  co.,  N.  Y. 

Hazen,  Chester,  Ladoga,  Wis. 

Hawkins,  Edward,  Stanwix,  Oneida  co.,  N.  Y. 

Hills,  Edgar,  Vernon,  Oneida  co.,  N.  Y. 

Ingersoll,  F.  D.,  Albion,  Orleans  CO.,  N.  Y. 

Ingham,  A.  W^.,  Adams,  N.  Y. 

Johnson,  Hon.  Wm.  A.,  Collins  Centre,  Erie 

co.,N.Y. 
Johnson,  A.,  Lee  Centre,  Oneida  co.,  N.  Y. 
Jones,  Jonathan,  Utica,  N.  Y. 
Jordan,  Henry,  Burke,  Franklin  co..  N.  Y. 
James,  Chas.  A.,  North  Gage,  Oneida  co.,  N,  Y. 
Jemisou,  Lewis,  Binghamton.  N.  Y. 
Jeffreys,  W.,  New  York  City,  N.  Y. 
Jenkins,  W.  A.,  Streetsboro,  Ohio. 
Judson,  E.  E..  Farmington,  Minn. 
Kilborne,  Nathan. 
Kinyon,  B.  Benj.,  Rome,  N.  Y. 
Keeler.  G.  W.,  Malone,  Franklin  Co.,  N.  Y. 
Kinsley,  M.  H.,  Oneida  Community.  Oneida  co., 

N.  Y. 
Kane,  H.  H.,  Rural  New  Yorker,  N.  York  City, 

N.  Y. 
Kingsbury,  Eugene  H..  Lee,  N.  Y. 
Keeler,  Frank,  Otto,  Cattaraugus  co.,  N.  Y. 
Loucks,  Geo.  W.,  Potsdam,  St.  Lawrence  co., 

N.  Y. 
Lozenbe,  W.  R. ,  Ithaca,  N.  Y. 
Littlewood,  G.  H.,  New  Berlin,  Chenango  co., 

N.  Y. 
Lockart,  W.  G.,  Oneida,  Madison  co.,  N.  Y. 
Lynk,  A.  M.,  Westmoreland,  Oneida  co.,  N.  Y. 
Locke.  W.  P.,  Waterville,  N.  Y. 
Laird,  P.  D.,  Woodville,  -Jefferson  co.,  N.  Y. 
Liudsley,  L.  S.,  Pratt's  Hollow,  Madison  co., 

N.  Y. 
Lewis,  Hon.  Harris,  Frankfort,  Herkimer  co., 

N,  Y. 
Lewis,  J,,  Fredonia,  Chautauqua  co.,  N.  Y. 
Lewis,  David  W.,  New  York  City,  N.  Y. 
Lamont,  A.  B.,  McLean,  Tompkins  Co.,  N.  Y. 
Larama,  Fred,  Fort  Plain,  Montgomery  co., 

N.  Y. 
Lewis,  J.  B.,  Sandusky,  Cattaraugus  co.,  N.  Y. 
Mott,  T.  C,  Edwards,  St.  Lawrence  co.,  N.  Y. 
Mac  Adams,  Wm.,  Rome,  N.  Y. 
MacGuflie,  A.,  Herkimer,  Herkimer  co.,  N.  Y. 
MacAdams,  John,  Rome,  N.  Y. 

More,  F.  W.,  Erieville,  Madison  co.,  N.  Y. 

Mather,  Luther  P.,  Nelson,  Madison  co.,  N.  Y. 

NacGarm,  Verona,  Oneida  co.,  N.  Y. 

MacAdams,  Geo.  G.,  Rome,  N.  Y. 

McAdams,  Alexander,  Rome,  N.  Y. 

Miller,  Levi  G..  Bear  Hill,   St.  Lawrence  co., 

Meigs,  J.  H.,  Verona,  Oneida  co.,  N.  Y. 

McWaiu,  H.  G.,  Boonville,  N.  Y. 

McGaw,  Wm.,  Buel,  Montgomery  co.,  N.  Y. 

Martyn,  A.  T.,  Canton,  St.  Lawrence  co.,  N.  Y. 

Moreley,  F.  W.,  Poultney,  Vt. 

Mason,  Hon.  E.  D.,  Richmond,  Vt. 

Meddaugh,  AMu,    Friendship,  Allegany  co., 
N.Y. 

McAdam,  Robert,  Lee  Centre,  N.  Y. 

Morrow,  G.  E.,  Chicago,  111. 

Munson,  E.  S,,  Franklin,  Delaware  co.,  N.  Y. 

Miller,  L.  W.,  Stockton,  Chautauqua  co.,  N.Y. 

McLean,  J.  R.,  Elgin,  111. 

Merri,  F.  T.,  Verona,  Oneida  co  ,  N.  Y, 

Norton,  Edward,  Farmington,  Ct. 

Niles,  Ed^ar,  Verona,  Oneida  co.,  N.  Y. 

Nichols,  Henry  C,  Norway,  Herkimer  co.,  N.Y. 

Nicholson,  N.  D,,  Oriskany,  N.  Y. 

Osborn,  S.,  Orange  Co.,  N.  Y. 

Olds,  Otis,  Schuyler.  Herkimer  co.,  N.  Y. 

Peters,  J.  M..  New  York  City,  N.  Y. 

Peck,  W.  P.,  Westchester,  Pa. 

Prescott,  Thomas,  Walesville,  Oneida  co.,  N.Y. 

Paddock,  S.  D.,  Malone,  Franklin  co.,  N.  Y. 

Powers,  C    J.,  Hammond,   St.  Lawrence  co., 
N.Y. 

Phillip,  John  M.,  Rome.  Oneida  co.,  N.  Y. 

Peckham,  W.  N.,  Verona,  Oneida  co.,  N.  Y. 

Peckham,  D.  J. 


Pierce,  Jona'n,  Shelbyville,  Shelby  co.,  Ky. 
Rankin.  J.,  Rome,  N.  Y. 
Readey,  Geo.  W.,   Sennett,  Oneida  co.,  N.  Y. 
Richardson,  C.  W.,  Herkimer  co.,  N.  Y. 
Ritter,  John  W.,  Rose,  Wayne  co.,  N.  Y. 
Rockwell,  Herbert,  Westmoreland,  Oneida  co  , 

N.  Y. 
Reckel,  Frank,  Sherburne,  Oneida  Co.,  N,  Y. 
Robbins,  R.  H. 

Reese,  G.  W.,  Oneida,  Madison  co.,  N.  Y. 
Reall,  J.  H.,  37  So.  Water  street,lPhiladelphia, 

Pa. 
Reeder,  Eastburn,  New  Hope,  Bucks  co..  Pa. 
Smith.  B.  P..  Black  River.  Jefferson  co.,  N.  Y. 
Smith,  C.  W.,  Black  River,  Jefferson  co.,  N.  Y. 
Stiles,  B.,  Oneida  co.,  N.  Y. 
Sheldon,  C.  L.,  Lowville,  Lewis  co.,  N.  Y. 
Stephens,  Fred,  Rome.  Box  196,  N.  Y. 
Spinning,  E.  C,  Taburg,  Oneida  co.,  N.  Y. 
Saramo,   Fred,  Fort    P/ain,   Montgomery  co., 

N.Y. 
Spear,  A.  E. 

Stephens,  Alfred,  Rome,  N.  Y. 
Smith,  James  B. 
Saunders,  A.  C,  Leonardsville,  Madison  co., 

N.  Y. 
Smith,  P.  P.,  Cazenovia,  Madison  co.,  N.  Y. 
Smith,  L.  C,  Cedarville,  Herkimer  co,,  N,  Y. 
Slosah,  W.  H.,  Oneida,  Madison  co.,  N.  Y, 
Slosah,  Richard,  Ridge  Mills,  N.  Y. 
Smith,  C.  H.,  North  Hebron,  N.  Y. 
Schermerhorn.  J.  M.,  North  Gage,  Oneida  co., 

N.  Y. 
Schermmerhorn,  C,  North  Gage,   Oneida  co., 

N.Y. 
Shufelt,  S.  J.,  North  Gage,  Oneida  co.,  N.  Y. 
Sterling  &  Bingham.  Watertown,  N.  Y. 
Shull,  Hon.  Josiah.  Ilion,  Herkimer  co.,  N.  Y. 
Smith,  Horace  J.,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 
Seymour,  Hon.  Horatio,  Utica,  N.  Y. 
Stewart,  Prof.  E.  W.,  Lake  View,  N.  Y. 
Scoville,  J.  V.  H.,  Paris,  Oneida  co.,  N.  Y. 
Straight,  W.  B.,  Hudson,  C, 
Straight,  S.,  Hudson,  O. 
Sterling,  E.  B.,  Watertown,  N.  Y. 
Tucker,  C,  E.,  Herkimer,  N.  Y. 
Tucker,  E.  B.,  Hannibal,  Oswego  co.,  N.  Y. 
Tremain,  Chas.,  Manlius,  N,  Y. 
Talcott,  Geo.  S.,  Salisbury  Centre,  Herkimer 

CO.,  N.  Y. 
Trumbull,  S.  R.,  Pulaski,  N.  Y. 
Taylor,  W.  S.,  Burlington,  New  Jersey. 
Thompson,  H.M.,  Elgin,  HI. 
Vrooman,    Jacob,    Rochester,    Olmstead   co., 

Minn. 
Wetherell,  Leander.  Boston,  Mass. 
Willard,  X.  A..  Fairfield,  Herkimer  eo.,  N.  Y, 
Whitney,  W.  M.,  Philadelphia,  Jefferson  co. 

N.Y. 
Wilgus,  M.  G.,  Pike,  Wyoming  co.,  N.  Y. 
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N.Y. 
Whitman  and  Burrell,  Little  Falls,  Herkimer 

CO.,  N.  Y. 
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N.Y. 
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N.  Y. 
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Ward,  Artemas,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 
Wilkinson,  Prof.  J.,  Baltimore,  Md. 
Wickson,  Prof.  E.  J.,  San  Francisco,  Cal. 
Wight,  Dr.  L.  L.,  Whitesboro,  N.  Y. 
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TPL^isrs^OTioisrs 

OK   THE 

ELEVENTH   ANNUAL   CONVENTION 

OK   THE 

AMERICAN  DAIRYMEN'S  ASSOClATIOx\, 

HELD  IN  ROME,  N.  Y., 

TUESDAY,  WEDNESDAY  AND  THURSDAY, 

January  11  th.  12th  and  13th,  1876. 


The  Eleventh  Annual  Convention  of  the  American  Dairymen's 
Association  opened  its  labors  at  half-past  11  A.  M.,  at  Eome,  N.  Y.,  on 
January  11th,  1876,  Vice-President  T.  D.  Curtis,  of  Syracuse,  in  the 
chair. 

The  appointment  of  the  usual  committees  was  called  for,  and  the 
Committee  on  Order  of  Business  was  announced,  as  follows : 

Hon.  Josiah  Shull,  of  Herkimer ;  L.  D.  Hardin,  of  Kentucky,  and 
William  Blanding,  of  Broome. 

The  Secretary  then  took  occasion  to  say  that,  during  the  year  past, 
the  Association  had,  by  several  different  parties,  been  blamed  ibr  foster- 
ing the  interests  of  patent-right  men  and  the  adulterers  of  human 
food.  There  was  evidently  something  in  the  conduct  of  the  Associa- 
tion Avhich  suggested  this,  or  the  intimations  Avould  not  have  been 
made,  as  they  have,  for  the  most  part,  come  from  parties  not  unfavor- 
ably disposed  toward  this  Association.  It  has  been  the  policy  of  the 
Association  from  the  first  to  invite  here  all  parties  having  novelties  of 
any  kind  relating  to  the  dairy  interest,  to  present  them  for  inspection 
and  approval  or  criticism,  as  an  investigation  might  show  them  to  be 
worthy  or  unworthy.  An  unusual  number  of  patents  came  forward 
last  year,  mostly  by  my  own  invitation,  prominent  among  which  Avere 
the  new  patent  process  of  cheese-making,  and  it  was  their  presence, 
probably,  which  led  to  the  unfavorable  remarks.  But  neither  this 
Association  nor,  as  far  as  I  know,  any  of  its  Executive  Board,  has  even 
a  leaning  toward  any  of  the  novelties  presented,  nor  any  intention  of 
endorsing  them,  any  further  than  they  appear  consistent  and  adA^an- 
tageous  to  the  public.     I  Avish  it  to  be  distinctly  understood  that  this 


Association  does  not  endorse  every,  nor  any,  novelty  brought  before  it, 
unless  by  resolution  or  special  action  on  its  part.  It  is  believed  to  be 
for  the  best  interests  of  the  Association,  as  well  as  the  dairy  public, 
that  all  that  is  new  in  the  line  of  dairy  apparatus  or  in  processes  of 
manufacture — all,  at  least,  which  bear  evidence  of  being  worthy — 
should  be  brought  before  its  Conventions,  to  the  end  that  they  may  be 
the  more  readily  made  available  if  valuable,  and  rejected  at  the  outset 
if  wortliless.  We  cannot  afford  to  ignore  a  good  thing  because  it  is 
patented,  for  fear  of  benefiting  the  patentee.  It  would  be  much  more 
consistent  for  us  to  encourage,  by  our  approval,  those  inventors  Avho 
bring  out  new  implements  to  work  with,  and  those  investigators  who 
bring  ojt  new  modes  of  working,  by  which  products  are  increased  or 
improved,  because  it  is  through  the  agency  of  such  men  that  our  labors 
are  facilita^ted  or  abridged,  and  our  products  enlarged  and  enhanced  in 
value.  The  more  we  encourage  such  men,  the  more  will  they  be  stim- 
ulated to  put  forth  further  eiforts  to  bring  out  new  conveniences  and 
new  practices  and  truths.  With  this  explanation,  it  is  hoped  that  here- 
after no  one  will  assume,  when  novelties  are  invited  or  permitted  to 
come  before  the  Conventions  of  this  Association,  that  it  is  done  with 
any  other  motive  or  intention  than  the  welfare  of  its  members  and, 
through'  them,  the  dairy  public. 

As  there  was  nothing  special  before  the  Convention  for  the  Morning 
Session,  the  Secretary  further  filled  out  the  time  by  giving  a  brief 
review  of  the  year  just  passed.     He  said  : 

As  the  year  closes  over  the  labors  of  the  dairyman  it  may  be  well 
to  take  a  survey  of  the  situation,  and  the  circumstances  of  the  past 
year.  A  glance  at  the  present  and  the  past  may  throw  some  light  on 
the  probabilities  of  the  future. 

The  yield  of  dairy  products  has  been  bountiful,  and  the  quality  has, 
for  the  most  part,  compared  favorably  with  that  of  former  years. 
Prices  have  been  some  fifteen  per  cent,  lower  than  last  year,  but,  from 
an  increased  yield  in  many  places,  the  aggregate  returns  to  producers 
will  not  vary  much  from  what  they  have  been  in  former  years.  A  part 
of  the  low  price  of  the  year  will  be  ofl'set  by  a  reduced  price  for  wages 
and  for  many  things  the  dairyman  has  to  buy,  so  that  the  ends  of  the 
year  will  meet  about  as  well  as  usual.  He  may  also  console  himself 
with  the  reflection  that,  while  he  has  seen  the  prices  of  other  commod- 
ities run  up  or  down,  the  prices  of  his  own  products  have  swayed  but 
little  either  way  for  years,  demonstrating  the  stable  character  of  his 
goods,  as  compared  with  the  other  products  of  the  farm.  The  stabil- 
ity of  the  past  is  a  guarantee  of  the  future. 

As  the  year  has  rolled  along,  our  peculiar  system  of  dairying  has, 
on  the  whole,  been  e;spanding.  In  New  England  the  quality  .f  butter 
and  cheese  may  have  been  improving,  but  the  quantity  of  either  has 
not  been  materially  increased  during  the  year,  except  in  the  State  of 
Maine.  The  progress  of  dairying  in  Maine  has  been  successful  and 
interesting.  Wherever  the  factory  system  has  been  introduced  it  has 
required  several  years  of  experience  to  develop  an  average  quality  of 
factory  cheese.  But  in  Maine  the  products  have  been  excellent  from 
the  start,  and  have  steadily  sold  at  an  advance.  This  may  be  attrib- 
uted in  part  to  the  excellence  of  the  grass  and  the  abundance  of  fresh, 
running  water,  but  I  think  chiefly  to  the  large  amount  of  Jersey  blood 


13 

in  the  cows  furnishing  the  milk.  So  far  as  I  have  learned,  the  Jerseys 
take  the  lead  in  the  thoroughbred  stock  of  that  State,  and  the  extra- 
ordinary richness  of  their  milk  has  seemed  to  prove  quite  as  success- 
ful in  cheese,  as  in  butter-making.  It  has  been  supposed  that  the  large 
size  of  the  butter-globules  in  Jersey  milk  would  operate  against  work- 
ing them  into  cheese,  but,  practically,  this  opinion  has  not  been  veri- 
fied. I  procured  some  cheese  from  the  Winthrop  factory,  in  Maine, 
said  to  be  made  of  about  half  Jersey  milk,  and  sent  a  sample  to  the 
Cornell  University  for  analysis,  which  yielded  39.24  per  cent,  fat, 
making  over  56  per  cent,  of  the  dry,  solid  substance  of  the  cheese 
pure  fat.  It  was  rich  as  Stilton,  and  fine-flavored.  This  was  the 
make  of  1874.  I  have  just  been  determining  the  fat  in  a  cheese  from 
the  same  factory,  of  the  make  of  1875,  in  which  I  find  over  40  per 
cent,  of  fat,  the  milk  being  nearly  all  Jersey  from  which  it  was  made. 
In  meatiness,  flavor  and  texture,  it  was  all  any  cheese  could  be  desired, 
and  would  command  the  top  figure  in  any  market.  I  mention  this 
fact  of  the  extraordinary  richness  and  excellence  of  the  samples  of 
cheese  from  Jersey  milk  I  have  met  with,  as  an  item  of  interest  to 
dairymen  generally,  the  impression  being  quite  general  that  the  milk 
of  that  breed  of  cows  was  not  good  for  cheese.  The  experience  of 
dairymen  in  Maine  with  Jersey  milk  must  enhance  the  reputation  of 
the  Channel  Island  cattle  for  dairy  purposes,  especially  as  it  has  proved 
to  require  less  than  other  milk  for  a  pound  of  cheese.  The  products 
of  the  factories  of  that  State,  over  sixty  in  number,  have  been  just 
about  sufficient  for  the  consumption  of  the  State,  and  to  that  extent 
the  outlet  for  the  surplus  of  other  States  has  been  cut  oft'. 

No  marked  changes  have  appeared  in  the  products  of  New  York  or 
Ohio.  In  Pennsylvania  there  has  been  a  large  increase,  and  the  fac- 
tory-make of  cheese  in  that  and  other  States  has  been  creeping  further 
South.  In  the  West  and  NorthAvest  the  expansion  has  been  consider- 
able, especially  in  cheese,  with  a  steady  advance  in  quality.  The  pro- 
gress of  dairying  in  the  great  West  is  not  remarkably  rapid,  but  it  is 
constant.  Its  established  mode  of  farming  is  emphatically  grain- 
growing,  and  it  is  not  easily  changed.  It  takes  time  to  change  the 
habits  of  a  whole  people,  and  it  can  only  be  done  gradually.  While 
this  change  is  going  on,  and  farmers  are  dividing  their  attention 
between  grain  and  milk,  dairying  suffers,  and,  from  this  cause,  poor 
butter  and  cheese  must  continue  to  flow  from  the  West  for  many  years 
But  wherever  attention  has  been  exclusively  given  to  the  production 
of  milk  and  the  manufacture  of  butter  and  cheese,  the  products  have 
been  highly  satisfactory.  In  the  exclusive  dairy  districts,  as  in  North- 
ern Illinois  and  Southern  Wisconsin,  the  jield  of  the  year  has  been 
large,  and  so  fine  in  ([uality  as  to  demonstrate  their  capacity  for  first- 
class  goods. 

The  increased  product  of  cheese  west  of  Ohio  has  probably,  for  the 
year,  amounted  to  about  5,000,000  pounds.  Notwithstanding  the 
large  increase,  very  little  cheese  from  this  region  has  reached  the 
Atlantic  coast.  It  has  been  consumed  West  and  South.  What  little 
has  found  its  way  abroad  had  better  been  retained,  as  the  v>inter  sup- 
ply is  short,  and  wc  hear  of  shipments  from  the  East  back  to  the 
West  again.  Canada  has  also  been  prospered  in  the  cheese  interest 
during  the  year.     Every  returning  season  enhances  the  quality  of  her 


14 

cheese  and  swells  her  aggregate  product.  Last  year  her  exports  of 
cheese  were  put  at  23,000,000  pounds.  This  year  they  are  estimated 
at  30,000,000. 

I  have  not  the  figures  for  the  last  month,  but  the  receipts  at  New 
York  up  to  December  1st,  for  both  butter  and  cheese,  were  a  little  in 
excess  of  last  year,  and  the  exports  of  both  for  the  year  a  little  less. 
Our  exports  for  the  complete  year  have  probably  varied  but  little  from 
the  preceding  year.  If  they  have  fallen  off  a  little,  the  home  consump- 
tion has  been  a  little  greater. 

Choice  butter,  through  all  the  year,  has  been  in  demand  and  sold 
"well,  but  second  and  third  quality  of  table-butter  has  dragged  contin- 
ually. The  makers  of  such  butter,  from  a  blind  conceit,  always  prize 
it  higher  than  consumers  do,  and  this  difference  of  opinion  spoils 
trade  and  makes  it  accumulate  in  the  markets.  The  same  is  true  of 
cheese.  Good  cheese  is  always  called  for,  and  gives  satisfaction  alike 
to  consumer  and  producer.  But  second  and  third-class  goods  move 
slow  and  satisfy  nobody,  and  must  always  wait  the  last  chance.  From 
such  information  as  I  have  been  able  to  gather,  it  appears  that  there  is 
an  unusual  proportion  of  such  cheese  this  year  lying  back  and  wait- 
ing for  a  dubious  market.  The  general  stagnation  of  business  has, 
no  doubt,  done  much  toward  depressing  the  price  of  cheese,  but  it  can 
hardly  be  doubted  that  the  never-ending  supply  of  this  kind  of  goods, 
always  crowding  itself  in  where  better  goods  are  wanted,  has  told  more 
effectually  upon  the  depression  of  prices  the  past  year  than  any  other 
cause.  An  evidence  of  this  is  found  in  the  fact  that  Canadian  cheese 
is  fast  crowding  ours  out  of  a  common  market.  There  has  been  no 
difficulty  in  getting  her  30,000,000  in,  and  crowding  30,000,000  of  ours 
out  of  the  British  market.  Canada  cheese  finds  favor  because  it  can 
be  relied  on  for  being  full  cream  cheese.  Skimming  is  scarcely  known 
in  the  factories  of  the  Dominion  ;  while  in  the  great  cheese-producing 
States  of  New  .York  and  Ohio,  from  which  the  most  of  our  shipping 
cheese  comes,  more  than  half  (some  estimate  three-fourths)  of  the 
factories  skim  more  or  less,  and  some  of  them  hard.  The  extent  of 
our  skimming  being  known,  throws  a  distrust  over  our  transactions, 
which  must  have  its  legitimate  effect.  The  prominent  lesson  of  the 
year  is  a  demand  for  more  quality  and  less  skimming.  Will  it  be 
heeded  ? 

Prof.  L.  Wetherell,  of  Boston,  spoke,  indorsing  the  remarks  of  Prof. 
Arnold  with  particular  reference  to  skim  cheese.  He  believed  that 
skim  cheese,  sold  for  whole  milk  cheese,  was  the  chief  element  of  de- 
pression in  our  markets.  He  strongly  urged  the  association  to  con- 
demn the  making  of  oleomargarine  and  skim  cheese. 

Mr.  Chadwick,  of  Ingersoll,  Canada,  admitted  the  indebtedness  of 
Canadian  makers  to  the  American  system,  and  he  thanked  the  secre- 
tary for  his  flattering  allusions  to  Canadian  clieese. 

Mr.  J.  M.  Peters,  of  Nevv^  York,  believed  too  much  emphasis  had 
been  placed  upon  the  alleged  efiect  of  skim  cheese  upon  the  American 
market.  They  had  not  interfered  with  the  sale  of  a  fine  article.  It 
had,  however,  interfered  with  home  consumption. 

Mr.  Harvey  Farrington,  of  Canada,  did  not  believe  the  improve- 
ment in  Canadian  cheese  was  so  great  as  the  deterioration  of  Ameri- 
can cheese.     This  made  the  difference  ori'eater. 


15 

L.  B.  Arnold  believed  dairymen  ought  to  use  less  renn-et  afad  acidity 
and  take  more  time  in  tlie  curing  of  cheese. 

Mr.  Peters,  of  Xew  York,  stated  that  there  had  been  much  more 
ill-cured  cheese  than  usual,  which  had  arrived  out  in  bad  order. 
Cheese  had  been  sold  before  it  was  cured.  This  discussion  closed 
with  the  expression  of  emphatic  opinions  against  skim  cheese  on  the 
part  of  several  members. 

AFTERNOON  SESSION. 

The  afternoon  session  was  called  to  order  at  3  p.  m.  by  Ex-Gov.  Horatio 
Seymour,  President  of  the  association.  There  was  a  largely  increased 
attendance.  The  first  paper  of  the  afternoon  was  read  by  Artemas 
Ward,  of  Philadelphia,  Pa.,  upon  the  subject  of  "  Nineveh.*' 

Mr.  Ward's  address  was  as  follows : 

My  theme  has  been  announced  to  you  as  Nineveh,  and  I  might  as 
well  confess  at  the  outset  that  the  most  that  I  know  about  that  old 
but  foolish  city  is  that  it  contained  ''  more  than  six  score  thousand 
souls  who  could  not  discern  between  their  right  hand  and  their  left 
hand,  and  also  much  cattle."  What  a  record  to  leave  for  future  cities 
to  point  at  regardless  of  their  shortcomings  and  unmindful  of  the 
Jonahs  who  set  in  their  midst,  proclaiming,  as  Oarlyle  does  of 
England,  that  its  population  is  20,000,000  souls,  mostly  fools. 

We  Americans  are  apt  to  compare  our  country  with  other  lands 
which  seem  less  favored  than  our  own.  We  are  not  slow  as  a  nation 
to  think  that  we  are  unequalled  on  the  globe,  and  we  have  lost  in  our 
worship  of  progress  all  veneration  for  antiquity.  But  it  is  now  many 
thousands  of  years  since  the  original  Jonah  went  down  so  reluctantly 
to  the  original  Nineveh,  and  we  of  to-day  who  reap  the  fruits  of  all 
earth's  past  generations,  should  be  beyond  their  follies  and  safe  from 
their  mistakes.  We  believe,  however,  in  no  state  of  society  but  our 
own,  (and  we  sometimes  grow  disgusted  with  that)  and  we  think  that 
all  those  things  which  are  acceptable  in  the  present  stage  of  the 
world's  progress,  must  be  necessary  elements  of  civilization.  How 
often  is  tea  called  civilizing  ?  And  I  have  seen  it  advanced  that  the 
general  use  of  wheaten  bread  and  fine  batter  indicates  a  nation  rising 
in  intellectual  culture,  and  that  "  pease  porridge  hot  or  pease  porridge 
cold  "  (which,  by  the  way,  Daniel  eat  to  his  great  edification)  is  not  food 
for  the  brain.  Shades  of  Shadrach,  Meshach  and  Abeduego,  is  not 
this  slander  hotter  than  tliat  furnace.  Oysters  Avere  lately  very  gener- 
ally consumed  by  young  bloods  who  thought  their  brains  needed  a 
stimulus,  until  some  wit  suggested  that  although  they  nourished 
brains  they  would  not  create  them.  But  how  was  butter  used  of  old  ? 
The  Greeks  and  Romans  only  used  it  as  an  ointment  for  the  bath, 
while  the  wild  Scythians,  Iberians,  Phyrgians  and  Germans  used  it 
freely  as  a  food.  To  this  day  it  is  used  very  sparingly  in  Southern 
Europe,  and  in  Italy,  Spain,  Portugal  and  Southern  Prance,  it  is  still 
sold  by  the  apothecaries  as  a  medicinal  agent  for  outward  application. 
Cheese  is  not  freely  used  by  the  ('eltic  races,  but  by  Germans  and  Sax- 
ons it  is  consumed  in  large  quantities,  but  the  race  difference  never 
seems  to  strike  the  minds  of  tliose  theorizers  wlio  are  forever  press- 
ing their  proposals  to  increase  the  home  consumption  of  cheese  by 
talk.    You  cannot  talk  the  race  characteristics  out  of  a  man,  vou  can 


16 

seldom  kick  them  out.  It  is  known,  for  instance,  that  the  Chinese  are 
not  easily  disturbed,  and  take  the  most  unexpected  things  with  per- 
fect coolness.  But  an  incredulous  Californian,  finding  one  Ah  Lee 
trying  to  steal  his  garden  rake,  kicked  the  heathen  down  the  road 
about  one  quarter  of  a  mile  as  an  experiment,  when,  out  of  breath,  he 
stopped  to  recover  his  own  equanimity,  the  undisturbed  Chinaman 
turned  and  asked  calmly,  "  You  no  likee  lendum,  eh  ?"  Now  if  the 
race  characteristic  could  not  be  kicked  out  of  him,  how  far  do  you 
think  talk  would  go  towards  weaning  him  from  rice  and  chopsticks  ? 
No,  if  you  want  to  increase  the  consumption  of  cheese,  you  had  best 
import  Germans ;  or,  like  Swift,  eat  up  the  Irish  babies  to  thin  down 
that  element  of  the  population.  The  folly  of  undertaking  a  business 
without  giving  due  consideration  to  race  characteristics  is  aptly  illus- 
trated by  the  shipment  of  forty  English  dairy-maids  to  La  Plata  to 
milk  the  cows  on  the  Pampas  and  make  delicious  butter  for  the  La 
Platians.  Alas  !  on  arriving  among  those  heathen  people  it  was  dis- 
covered that  they  preferred  their  butter  a  little  rancid. 

I  hear  many  theories  about  the  price  and  consumption  of  butter ; 
the  market  reports  float  away  into  a  cloudland  of  words  and  say  that 
butter  is  very  sensitive,  is  influenced  by  this,  that,  and  the  other. 
The  ruling  price,  they  say  at  times,  is  too  high  and  limits  consump- 
tion. But  without  aviy  deep  study  I  have  come  to  the  conclusion  that 
while  judicious  efibrts  might  open  up  new  outlets  for  our  surplus 
stock,  especially  of  inferior  makes,  no  concessions  in  price,  and  no 
amount  of  hammering  in  of  opinions  will  materially  increase  the 
home  demand.  Educate  the  public  taste  up  to  that  point  tliat  men 
will  eat  none  but  the  choicest  butter,  and  it  will  become  so  necessary 
to  them  that  prices  will  not  stand  between  them  and  their  desires. 
They  will  get  hungry  for  it,  as  the  little  boy  did  for  the  peanuts.  He 
snatched  tliem  from  a  stand  as  he  passed,  and  a  gentleman  who  saw 
the  theft  stopped  him  and  said,  "  Little  boy,  don't  you  know  that  it  is 
very  wrong  to  steal  peanuts  ?"  "  I  'spose  so,  sir."  "  Don't  you  know 
tliat  little  boys  who  steal  peanuts  Avon't  go  to  heaven  ?"  "  I  'spect  so, 
sir,  but  when  I  gets  hungry  for  peanuts  sir,  they've  got  to  come  if 
they're  spiked  down."  And  so  when  once  accustomed  to  clioice  but- 
ter, people  will  have  it  regardless  of  price. 

The  staff  of  life  has  been  thought  too  dry  by  all  the  nations  of  the 
earth.  .  The  reapers  told  Euth  to  dip  her  bread  in  the  vinegar,  (a 
habit  which  continues  to  this  day).  The  Spartan  boys  probably 
learned  their  first  lessons  in  effeminacy  when  their  mothers  poured 
warm  gravy  over  their  bread.  In  the  East  they  cook  their  meals  in 
rancid  butter  and  season  them  with  asafoetida ;  the  German  school- 
boy takes  the  rough  edge  ofl*  his  crusts  with  a  liberal  coating  of 
ganse-fet,  or  goose  grease,  and  the  Russian  soldier  and  tlie  Arctic  ex- 
plorer feeling  the  need  of  something  bracing,  iielp  theirs  down  with 
tallow  candles. 

Poor  Ninevites,  would  it  not  be  well  to  send  some  Jonah  down  to 
teach  them  greater  wisdom  and  introduce  the  creamery  system  ? 

I  did  not  come  here,  however,  to  speak  of  butter — I  was  to  tell  you 
of  Nineveh,  and  my  slight  knowledge  of  the  subject  has  led  me  astray. 
But  if  all  that  I  know  of  ancient  Nineveh  is  that  it  contained  more 
than  six  score  thousand  persons  who  could  not  discern  between  their 


17 

right  hands  and  their  left  liauds,  not  forgetting  their  cattle,  why 
should  I  go  back  so  many  thousands  of  years  to  the  city  which  was 
48  miles  in  circumference,  whose  walls  were  100  feet  high,  broad 
enough  to  drive  three  chariots  abreast  along  the  tops,  and  furnished  with 
1,500  towers,  each  two  hundred  feet  high,  whose  fields  were  once  extra- 
ordinarily fertile  and  provided  with  the  finest  system  of  irrigation 
ever  known,  where  the  people  who  knew  so  little  have  been  supplanted 
by  a  people  who  know  still  less,  and  where  mucli  cattle  no  longer 
herd.  Why  need  I  go  back,  I  say,  over  so  many  ages  when  the  whole 
world  still  draws  after  Nineveh,  and  affords  abundant  parallels,  not  to 
its  size  alone  but  to  its  iniquity. 

Let  lis  glance  over  the  world's  progress.  In  the  beginning,  each 
man  was  his  own  purveyor,  and  wild  fruits  and  game  formed  his  entire 
subsistence.  Then  there  were  no  markets  and  no  middlemen,  but  all 
men  were  hunters  until  Nimrod,  weary  of  the  chase,  laid  aside  his 
spear  and  began  to  build  cities.  Then  the  work  of  those  who  dwelt 
outside  was  doubled,  for  they  had  to  provide  food  sufficient  for  the 
city  as  well  as  for  themselves,  and  when  game  was  scarce  they  had  to 
provide  more  fruits  until  at  last  they  were  forced  to  till  the  fields  to 
produce  enough  for  all.  Now  the  people  of  Nineveh  acted  towards 
them  as  travellers  do  with  savage  tribes  ;  they  gave  them  curiously 
fashioned  trinkets,  and  beads,  and  all  sorts  of  things  that  pleased  the 
eye,  but  which  were  seldom  of  absolute  use,  and  for  these  they 
induced  them  to  give  in  exchange  the  essential  food.  Soon  the  busi- 
ness grew  until  markets  were  established  in' which  the  hunters  and 
the  husbandmen  sold  their  goods — soon  the  hunters  disappeared,  and 
presently  middlemen  uadertookto  supplant  the  farmers.  Thus  trade 
and  agriculture  were  developed. 

The  Poets  say  that  Art  (that  is  the  trinkets)  and  Nature  (that  is  the 
food)  began  to  barter  together,  and  the  question  sometimes  occurs  to 
unpoetical  minds  "  who  got  the  best  of  it."  Into  the  city  of  Nineveli 
the  surrounding  country  poured  long  lines  of  camels  and  asses  bearing 
grain  and  wine,  oil  and  honey,  and  dates  and  figs — and  those  asses 
went  out  of  Nineveh  lighter  than  they  went  in — and  the  same  stream 
flows  on  to-day,  the  city  gives  many  useful  things,  in  exchange  for  its 
food,  but  still  distributes  no  small  amount  of  brass  jewelry  to  credu- 
lous strangers. 

From  the  days  of  Nineveh  down  the  tendency  has  ever  been  from 
the  country  to  the  town.  Little  city  boys  are  told  strange  stories  of 
the  Will'o-the-Wisps  that  make  the  country  dangerous,  but  little 
country  boys  turn  willing  ears  to  foolish  mothers  who  tell  of  bright 
lamps,  and  stores,  and  streets  which  lure  men  into  the  city — and  the 
boys  go  down  to  Nineveh  to  get  polished  up  but  too  often,  alas,  in  its 
brightest  rooms — which  are  bar-rooms — and  its  finest  houses — which 
are  gambling  hells — they  get  enough  mud  on  their  garments  to  make 
them  unfit  to  return  to  the  clean  corn-fields. 

Be  ye  content  to  dwell  in  the  country,  for  God  maketh  peace  within 
thy  borders  and  filleth  thee  with  the  choicest  of  the  wheat.  Tlie  city 
is  full  of  life,  but  it  is  tumultuous,  and  its  food  is  uncertain,  better  by 
far  is  the  simpler  thrift,  and  the  slower  but  surer  gains  of  husbandry. 
There  has  never  been  a  surplus  of  farmers  since  time  began,  but  the 
city  could  well  spare  politicians  or  clerks,  produce  men  or  lawyers, 


18 

pickpockets  or  merchants — there  is  a  surplus  in  every  line — and  that 
surplus  either  starves  or  steals. 

No ;  turn  your  thoughts  away  from  Nineveh  but  try  to  arrange 
your  own  affairs  as  shrewdly  as  they  do  theirs.  Wake  up,  and  see 
whether  it  does  not  often  need  a  blast  of  yourjhorn  to  recall  your 
sheep  from  the  meadow,  or  your  cows  from  the  corn,  remember  that 
on  the  side  of  the  city  are  many  witty  inventions,  and  that'by^^means 
of  some  of  them  they  are  almost  enabled  to  do  without  the  foods 
which  you  produce.  Since  those  wes^erw?Jdairymen  began  to  skim 
their  cheese,  and  to  send  in  so  much  low  grade  butter,  certain  men  of 
Balial  (who  dwell  in  Nineveh  and  are  ever  ready ^to  take  advantage 'lof 
the  short  comings- of  others)  have  devised  strange  processes  by  which 
they  make  butter  out  of  soap  fat,  and  i,by  which  they  will  soon  make 
cheese  out  of  saw  dust  if  they  do  not  even  saw,4t'i  out  of  the"*  solid 
plank.  I  need  not  dwell  upon  these  things,  however,  for  you  know 
how  to  provide  against  them. 

A  higher  state  of  culture,  while  it  is  not  brought  about  by  eating 
pure  bread,  does  nevertheless  call  for  finer  makes  of  everything.  The 
ladies  of  the  days  of  Queen  Bess,  who  used  straw  instead  of  carpets 
might  not  object  to  old-tasted  butter,  or  tough  cheese,  to-day  the  city 
markets  clamor  for  fine  grades  of  butter  and  full  cream  cheese,  but 
the  country  too  often  seems  determined  to  encourage  the  manufacture 
of  that  Ninevitish  trash  know6  as  Oleomargarine,  which  is  inferior 
to  good  butter,  but  which  is  unquestionably  a  superior  grease.  | 

Strange  stories  are  sometimes  told  of  the  butter  that  is  sold  in  the 
city.  Jones  bought  a  lot  of  firkins  from  Brown,  who  assured  him 
that  he  saw  it  packed  at  the  dairy.  "  Straight  lot,"  he  said,  "  two 
hundred  cows,  two  milkings,  one  churning."  But  Jones  opened  a  few 
of  the  packages,  and  great  was  the  variation.  "  Why,  how  is  this, 
Brown,  I  thought  you  said  it  was  a  straight,,  lot,  two  milkings,  one 
churning?"  "So  it  was,"  said  Brown,  scratching  his^^  head,  "but 
Jones,  you  should  have  seen  those  cows,  they  were  the  ringstreakedest, 
spottedest  critters  you  ever  saw,  and  I  reckon  that  is  what  is  the  mat- 
ter with  the  butter."  But  I  should  not  allow  myself  to  drift  into 
subjects  that  I  do  not  understand  and  butter  is  one  of  them.  I  am  a 
total  stranger  in  these  parts.  Two  men  reeled  up  the  street  on  a  clear 
morning  when  the  moon  gave  a  very  brilliant  light,  and  one  of  them 
said  "How  bri'it  the  moon  is,"  the  other  disputed  the  assertion  and 
declared  that  it  was  the  sun  which  was  shining  on  their  tangled  path. 
At  last  they  agreed  to  leave  it  to  the  next  man  whom  they,  met. 
"  Stranger,"  said  they,  "  would  you  be  'kind  enough  to  settle  a  little 
question  for  us,  and  tell  us  whether  that^ is  the  sun  or^the  moon?" 
But  he  too  had  been  out  to  see  a  man,  and  he  bowed  towards  all  points 
of  the  compass,  as  he  replied,  "  sorry  I  can't  inform  you,  gen'l'men, 
but  I'm  a  total  stranger  in  these  parts  myself."  And  that  is  just  the 
way  I  feel  about  butter,  I  am  a  total  stranger  to  it,  except  on  bread. 

But  it  is  not  hard  to  get  onto  familiar  ground  when  talking  about 
Nineveh — it  contains  some  things  which  none  of  us  are  strangers  to — 
cheats  for  instance.  The  merchant  cheats  his  clerk,  the  clerk^cheats 
his  tailor,  the  tailor  cheats  the  market  man,  the  market  man  cheats 


19 

the  commission  man  and  then  he  cheats  you.  It  is  the  old  rhyme  of 
the  naturalist  oyer  again ; 

The  common  fleas,  have  other  fleas 

Upon  their  backs,  to  bite  'em, 
And  these  small  fleas,  have  smaller  fleas 

And  so  ad  infinitum. 

And  it  is  useless  to  put  the  candle  out,  as  the  foolish  fellow  did,  so 
that  they  may  not  find  you.  You  must  meet  them  if  you  go  out  of 
doors,  and  even  if  yon  didn't,  you  could  not  avoid  them  indoors.  Go 
out  without  hesitation  but  don't  go  bareheaded  or  without  your  wits — 
remember  that  half  the  baits  in  this  world  which  are  held  so  close  to 
our  noses  that  we  have  but  to  open  our  mouths  to  secure  them,  have 
barbed  hooks  underneath  their  attractions.  Wiien  you  judge  of  a 
business  man  from  a  distance  remember  that  worth  is  always  modest, 
that  co7iservative  views  are  safest,  that  extreme  quotations  are  frequently 
ofiered  but  seldom  realized,  and  in  short,  when  you  read  letters  that 
tell  of  unusual  facilities,  limitless  capital,  highest  prices,  remember 
that  liaper  cannot  refuse  ink.  Yes,  the  people  of  Nineveh  leave  no 
power  of  words  unused,  no  influence  of  high  sounding  references 
unemployed,  to  lead  men  of  smaller  experience  into  their  snares. 
Words,  Words,  Words,  how  mysteriously  they  are  flung  over  trifles  in 
tricks  of  trade,  and  how  often  is  human  ignorance  misled  by  an 
empty  sound. 

I  stated  at  the  outset  that  we  Americans  are  apt  to  compare  ourselves 
with  other  nations,  and  we  so  stock  the  cards  that  they  appear  to  a 
disadvantage.  Let  us  look  for  a  moment  at  China,  tho  most  eastern  of 
Asiatic  powers.  Its  people  are  accounted  to  be  nearly  as  devoid  of 
improvement  as  they  were  3,000  years  ago.  A  fable  says  that  they  never 
knew  how  to  roast  pig  until  one  of  their  best  houses  burned  down  with 
one  in  it,  and  that  as  their  simplicity  suggested  no  other  way  of  pre- 
paring the  palatable  dish,  they  put  another  pig  in  another  house  and 
burnt  that  down  also.  Yes,  men  sneer  at  China  and  our  wise  men 
say  that  it  is  a  country  where  the  roses  have  no  fragrance,  and  the 
women  no  petticoats,  where  the  laborer  has  no  Sabbath  and  the  mag- 
istrates no  sense  of  honor,  where  the  roads  have  no  vehicles,  and  the 
ships  have  no  keels,  where  old  men  fly  kites,  where  the  needle  points 
to  the  South,  and  the  sign  of  being  puzzled  is  to  scratch  the  soles  of 
the  feet,  where  the  place  of  honor  is  on  the  left  hand,  and  the  seat  of 
intellect  is  in  the  stomach,  where  to  take  ofi"  your  hat  is  an  insolent 
question,  and  to  wear  white  clothes  is  to  put  on  mourning,  where  there 
is  a  language  without  an  alphabet,  and  a  literature  without  a  grammar, 
in  short,  where  one  need  be  surprised  at  nothing.  That  is  certainly  a 
topsey  turvey  country,  but  before  wo  enter  it  let  us  look  at  our  ov/n 
country  and  our  own  capitol,  and  sec  what  legislators  we  are  blessed 
with. 

Their  confidence  at  least  is  sublime.  For  instance,  the  one  who 
wronged  old  Bion  and  gave  unnecessary  credit  to  the  good  book  when 
he  said  so  grandly  on  the  floor  of  Congress,  "  Search  the  scriptures 
and  find  these  Avords, 'know  thyself.' "  The  effect  was  electric,  the 
quotation  went  unchallenged,  his  biblical  lore  was  much  admired. 
Puffed  with  success  he  boasted  that  he  could  recite  the  Lord's  prayer. 


20 

The  bet  was  instantly  accepted  by  a  fellow  Congressman,  the  money 
deposited  and  the  prayer  called  for.  With  the  same  confident  man- 
ner he  promptly  responded  with  ''^  Now  I  lay  me  down  to  sleep,"  and 
his  nonplussed  companion  passed  over  the  stakes  and  acknowledged 
the  correctness  of  his  rendition.  Election  day  came  round;  the  can- 
vass was  said  to  be  devoid  of  interest — the  respectable  citizens  staid  at 
home,  and  for  the  forty-eleventh  time  he  was  returned  to  his  seat  in 
the  house.  So  he  voted  a  duty  on  tea  and  coffee,  on  condition  that 
one  of  his  opponents  would  vote  for  a  pet  appropriation  of  his,  and 
did  other  things  customary  with  American  lawmakers  and  statesmen. 
Why,  beside  the  indifference  which  permits  such  characters  to  repre- 
sent and  tax  our  interests,  the  Chinaman  is  wise  when  he  beats  his 
drum  to  drive  away  the  dragon  which  he  says  is  eclipsing  the  sun 
with  his  great  jaws ;  and  Pekin  is  pure  compared  with  that  capital 
which  is  so  corrupt  that  the  man  in  the  moon  is  said  to  hold  his  nose 
as  he  goes  over  it.  For  in  that  poor  foolish  land  of  China  a  credita- 
ble examination  is  the  key  to  advancement,  and  to  be  ignorant  is  to 
be  without  office  and  without  influence. 

In  no  country  in  the  world  is  agriculture  held  in  such  esteem  as  in 
China.  On  the  1st  of  each  year  a  grand  state  ceremony  is  performed 
in  its  honor,  so  that  about  two  weeks  ago  the  bulletins  of  Pekin  must 
have  announced  the  3242d  centennial  of  that  industry ;  and  what  a 
noise  there  must  have  been  in  that  land  of  snap-crackers.  On  that 
occasion  the  Emperor  traces  a  furrow  with  a  plow  and  all  his  minis- 
ters follow  his  example.  And  why  should  not  agriculture  be  treated 
with  the  highest  regard ;  and  why  shoula  not  young  men  bend  their 
energies  toward  it,  and  not  toward  the  town  ?  We  have  seen  that  the 
city's  necessities  gave  birth  to  extended  husbandry — how  it  still  de- 
pends upon  it.  Yes,  the  city  works,  but  it  does  not  produce,  and  the 
agricultural  classes  are  in  fact  the  great  insurers  of  the  world's  busi- 
ness. Every  financial  panic  which  convulses  the  centre  of  the  city 
must  shake  each  class  of  society  until  it  dies  away  in  a  ripple  over  the 
broad  and  cultivated  fields  which  yield  bread  and  meat  and  clothing ; 
and  these  after  all  are  the  only  things  life  gives  us  that  we  really  de- 
pend- upon.  They  are  the  only  indispensables.  Gold  is  useful  as  a 
medium  of  currency,  but  paper  can  substitute  it.  Iron  is  useful  also, 
but  only  to  dig  the  soil,  to  spin  the  cloth,  or  otherwise  to  perfect  what 
the  field  produces. 

In  the  distant  future  the  world's  work  may  yet  be  established  on 
such  trade  principles  as  will  bring  the  basis  of  the  world's  business 
into  closer  connection  with  the  world's  actual  production.  No  step 
toward  this  basis  has  been  as  well  taken,  or  as  well  established  as  your 
cheese  factory  and  creamery  system.  The  world  is  taking  extended 
notice  of  it ;  other  agricultural  industries  are  endeavoring  to  imitate 
it,  Farmers'  Fruit  Packing  Associations  being  already  on  the  increase. 
Now  the  world  is  coming  here  within  four  months  to  ask  of  America 
what  use  she  has  made  of  her  first  100  years.  Shall  your  industry  go 
unrepresented  ?  Shall  boot  and  shoe  men  show  forth  their  progress, 
and  whisky  men  hold  high  carnival  in  a  temple  to  their  god,  and  the 
clean  divinities  of  the  dairy  go  unnoticed.  Wives  and  daughters  of 
dairymen,  divinities  of  the  dairy,  I  adjure  you  to  point  at  the  men  if 
they  neglect  to  represent  you.     Dairymen  of  the  American  Associa- 


21 

tion,  I  adjure  you  to  lose  no  time  in  coining  forward  with  your  sub- 
scriptions, no  matter  how  small,  for  every  little  helps.  Others  more 
eloquent  than  I  am  will  represent  the  matter  more  fully  to  you,  but 
let  each  man  bear  in  mind  that  if  he  gives  nothing  he  need  not  ex- 
pect others  to  do  more,  and  moreover  his  name  will  be  among  the 
missing  when  the  committee  publishes  its  roll  of  honor. 

HIXTS    IN   CHEESE-MAKIXG,  BY    C.    L.    SHELDOX,    OF    LEWIS. 

The  past  season  has  been  peculiar  in  several  particulars.  Among 
those  we  first  notice  is  the  milk  production  as  compared  with  the  season 
of  1874.  In  1874  we  received  at  the  factory  the  milk  of  042  cows,  all 
told,  and  for  1875  the  milk  of  050  cows.  The  aggregate  3'ield  of  milk 
for  the  season  of  1875,  as  compared  with  the  previous  season,  is  5  6-10 
per  cent,  poorer,  and  for  the  same  period  of  the  season  it  is  0  9-100 
per  cent,  poorer.  Taking  June  of  1874,  as  the  basis  of  comparison 
for  the  different  months,  we  find  the  yield  of  June,  1875,  to  be  2  07-100 
per  cent.  less.  July,  1875,  shrinks  12  40-100  per  cent.,  or  13  93-100  per 
cent  more  than  August,  1874.  September,  1875,  shrinks  43  15-100 
per  cent,  or  10  32-100  per  cent,  more  than  its  corresponding  month. 
October,  1875,  shrinks  52  82-100  per  cent.,  or  a  difference  of  3  83-100 
per  cent,  compared  with  its  corresponding  month  of  1874.  It  will  be 
noticed  that  no  month  of  1875  has  quite  equaled  its  corresponding 
month  of  1874,  and  that  the  percentage  of  shrinkage  is  greatest  in' 
August;  that  July  also  lost  heavily.  About  the  time  of  the  greatest 
shrinkage  it  was  common  for  dairymen  to  remark,  "  I  don't  know  what 
makes  my  cows  shrink  so,  they  have  plenty  to  eat  and  come  up  to  the 
milking-barn  well  filled  and  are  in  excellent  condition  as  to  flesh." 
This  condition  of  things,  to  our  own  mind,  suggests  the  following  ex- 
planation :  The  feed  grew  faster  than  it  Avas  consumed  ;  the  tender, 
succulent  grass  became  dry  hay,  losing  the  chief  quality  of  milk  pro- 
duction. If  this  be  the  correct  explanation  of  the  case,  it  su^o-ests 
the  need  of  some  remedy.  If  tha  dairyman  increases  the  number  of 
his  cows,  so  as  to  consume  the  grass  as  fast  ,as  it  grows  through  the 
flush  of  tlie  season,  he  will  have  too  many  for  the  after  part;  and  if 
tlie  dairy  is  too  small,  the  difficulties  already  mentioned  obtain,  so  that, 
ill  either  case,  some  supplementary  ration  must  be  provided  for  the 
cows.  Of  the  quality  or  amount  of  this  ration  it  is  not  our  purpose 
now  to  speak.  But  of  the  value  of  fodder-corn,  as  fed  by  one  of  our 
patrons,  we  are  furnished  with  data  from  which  we  figure"  out  the  fol- 
lowing result:  This  patron's  June  milk  was  3  0-100  per. cent,  better 
than  the  average  yield  of  the  factory  for  the  same  time.  His  July 
yield  is  90-100  of  oue  per  cent,  better  than  his  June,  and  10  85-100  per 
cent,  better  than  the  factory  average.  His  August  loses  20  37-100  per 
cent.,  but  9  34-100  per  cent,  less  than  the  average  shrinkage.  His  Sep- 
tember loses  33  8-100  per  cent.,  but  7  5-10  per  cent,  less  than  the  aver- 
age loss  of  the  factory  for  the  time.  These  comparisons  are  based  upon 
this  patron's  yield  for  June.  For  the  four  months  mentioned,  this 
patron  gains  11  12-100  per  cent,  over  the  factory  average  for  the  same 
time,  and  after  deducting  his  increased  yield  for  June  we  find  the  ratio 
of  his  shrinkage  is  8  5-100  per  cent,  less  than  that  sustained  by  the 
factory.     This  showing,  though  not  remarkable  in  itself,  points  clearly 


to  one  of  the  ways  in  which  losses  are  sustained  by  dairymen,  and 
though  fodder-corn  may  not  be  the  best  remedy,  still  it  seems  to  prove 
itself  8  per  cent,  better  than  no  remedy  at  all,  and  this  during  a  sea- 
son when  the  grass  product  was  abundant.  Our  dairymen  need  to 
provide  against  this  tendency  to  shrinkage.  A  little  forethought  in 
this  direction  may  make  all  the  difference  between  keeping  cows  at  a 
loss  or  at  a  profit. 

Another  subject  that  has  claimed  our  attention  is  the  curing  of 
cheese.  The  curing-houses  that  were  constructed  in  the  early  days  of 
factory  cheese-making  were  so  poorly  calculated  to  regulate  the  tem- 
perature that  the  curing  process  was  almost  entirely  at  the  command 
of  the  weather.  If  the  weather  was  just  right,  the  cheese  cured  finely 
and  were  considered  fine.  If  too  hot  or  too  cold  for  any  length  of 
time,  the  effect  that  poor  cheese  has  upon  the  market  was  quite  sure 
to  follow,  so  that  the  cheese  market  was  like  a  volume  of  weather 
reports,  from  which  the  initiated  could  read  the  past  as  the  geologist 
reads  the  past  history  of  the  earth.  To  remedy  this  defect  of  con- 
struction, we  ceiled  up  our  curing-room  with  matched  spruce,  made 
double  doors  and  close  window-shutters,  which  could  be  opened  or  shut 
from  one  end  of  the  room.  To  prevent  ventilation  under  the  house, 
we  nailed  boards  to  the  sills  and  banked  with  earth  the  end  that  came 
to  the  ground.  In  this  waj^,  at  little  expense,  we  made  a  comparatively 
tight  foundation.  Our  heating  apparatus  consisted  of  a  coal  stove 
with  a  galvanized  iron  jacket  over  it,  raised  about  six  inches  from  the 
lloor  at  the  bottom  and  having  a  top  with  a  door  to  open  for  conven- 
ience in  filling  the  stove  with  coal.  This  top  was  raised  about  six 
inches  from  the  cylinder  or  outer  sides  of  the  jacket.  There  was  a 
door  in  the  sides  for  convenience  in  taking  out  ashes  and  an  aperture 
for  regulating  draft.  This  heating  apparatus  was  placed  near  the  cen- 
tre of  the  curing-room.  The  heated  air  from  the  top  of  the  jacket 
diffused  itself  quite  uniformly  over  the  room,  except  what  little  radia- 
tion came  from  twelve  feet  of  horizontal  smoke-pipe,  the  cheese  seemed 
to  be  warmed  uniformly.  A  thermometer  kept  in  the  room  was  closely 
watched  from  May  till  the  middle  of  October ;  we  seldom  had  a  tem- 
perature less  than  sixty  or  over  seventy  degrees.  During  the  hottest 
weather  of  the  season,  by  keeping  the  room  closed  during  the  hottest 
part  of  the  day,  we  were  enabled  to  go  through  the  season  without 
starting  the  oil  from  the  cheese.  Most  of  our  July  cheese  was  kept 
until  the  2od  of  September  before  they  were  sold,  and  from  numerous 
tests  made  I  cannot  recall  an  instance  where  the  flavor  .seemed  to  be 
impaired  through  defects  in  curing;  that  tendency  to  sharpness  so 
common  to  early  cheese  was  scarcely  perceptible  in  these  cheese. 

A  July  cheese,  cut  at  three  months'  age,  was  so  solid  that  we  sup- 
posed we  had,  through  mistake,  cut  a  late  August,  and  so  certain  were 
we  of  this  supposed  fact  that  we  exaihined,  at  considerable  trouble,  the 
stock  of  cheese  saved  for  our  own  use,  but  did  not  find  the  cheese 
sought  until  we  examined  the  brand  of  the  cut  cheese.  We  mention 
this  simple  incident  to  show  that  the  July  cheese  had  a  quality  so 
marked  tuid  different  from  what  we  had  been  accustomed  to  as  to  cause 
the  belief  that  we  had  made  a  mistake.  Another  co2idition  resulting, 
we  think,  from  the  close  room  during  the  hot  days  was  the  increased 
tendency  to  mould  ;  this  tendency,  though  not  affecting  the  real  value 


of  the  cheese,  was  not  so  desirable ;  it  required  more  labor  to  care  for 
them,  and,  in  spite  of  our  efforts,  Avould  soon  become  dingy  and  unat- 
tractive in  appearance.  In  a  room  averaging  500  cheese,  evaporation 
from  them  would  be  equal  to  about  one  gallon  of  M'ater  every  four 
hours,  and  if,  instead  of  having  the  room  entirely  closed,  we  had 
opened  ventilators  above  tlie  cheese,  and  been  careful  to  prevent  cur- 
rents of  air  in  the  room,  we  would,  perhaps,  have  succeeded  better.  As 
our  aim  was  to  carry  the  cheese  through  these  hot  spells  at  as  low  a 
temperature  as  possible,  we  kejitthe  room  closely  shut  during  the  heat 
of  the  day,  airing  it  in  the  late  evening  or  early  morning,  or  both. 
Being  our  first  season's  experience  in  managing  such  a  room,  and  en- 
tirely successful  as  far  as  the  quality  of  the  cured  cheese  was  con- 
cerned, it  remains  for  us  to  discover  whether  the  lesser  difficulties 
affecting  the  appearance  of  the  cheese  can  be  overcome. 

The  advantage  of  such  a  curing-room  commends  itself  to  us  from 
another  point  of  view.  During  the  hot  season  of  the  year,  when  the 
markets  become  clogged  Avith  early-matured  cheese,  and  the  prices  fall 
with  startling  rapidity,  the  cheese  at  the  factories  can  be  judiciously 
held  and  put  upon  the  market  as  required,  and  not  deteriorate  by  hold- 
ing, or,  at  least,  in  a  less  degree  than  when  subjected  to  the  boiling 
heat  of  a  smgle-boarded  curing-room,  and,  perhaps,  just  under  the 
roof  at  that.  We  would  not  record  ourself  as  opposed  to  the  early 
maturing  and  marketing  of  cheese,  but  we  would  enter  our  protest 
against  a  general  system  of  making  and  curing  which  requires  that  the 
cheese  must  be  sold  and  be  speedily  consumed,  be  the  prices  satisfac- 
tory or  not.  Whatever  error  the  cheese-maker  may  commit,  let  him 
commit  the  error  of  making  his  cheese  with  too  slow  maturing  prop- 
erties, rather  than  an  error  in  the  opposite  direction. 

In  the  market  reporta  we  see  distinctions  made  in  favor  of  the  Sep- 
tember make  as  compared  with  the  October.  This  deterioration,  wc 
believe,  is  oftener  due  to  the  curing,  or,  more  properly,  want  of  cur- 
ing, than  to  any  or  all  otlier  causes  combined.  We  have  observed  this 
tendency  in  the  cheese  of  our  own  manufacture  in  years  past,  and  in 
seeking  the  cause,  we  are  persuaded  that  we  did  not  credit  imi)erfect 
curing  with  a  sufficient  share  of  the  defect.  The  October  milk  with 
us  is  richer  than  the  September,  requires  less  to  make  a  pound  of 
cheese,  and  that  it  should  not  make  richer  and  better  cheese  when 
properly  made  and  cured,  would  seem  to  argue  that  milk  rich  in  oil 
is  thereby  rendered  unfit  to  produce  a  first  quality  of  cheese. 

We  want  more  light  upon  the  curing  process — more  particular  and 
detailed  results  than  any  which  I  am  able  to  give.  There  is  a  sad 
need  throughout  our  dairy  region  of  proper  curing-rooms,  and  it  is  to 
be  hoped  that  factory-owners  Avill  meet  this  demand.  The  storing  for 
purposes  of  curing  from  ten  to  twenty  thousand  dollars  wortli  of  cheese 
by  individual  factories,  from  year  to  year,  in  rooms  so  poorly  adapted 
for  the  purpose  as  to  cause  various  losses  whenever  certain  conditions 
of  temperature  prevail,  without  any  eftbrt  put  forth  for  improvement, 
is,  to  say  the  least,  showing  but  little  concern  for  the  valuable  property 
entrusted  to  our  hands.  "The  demand  on  the  part  of  those  that  fur- 
nish milk,  that  we  make  for  tlie  lowest  possible  price,  may,  in  some 
instances,  prevent  these  needed  reforms.  Better  to  ])ay  well  for  work 
well  performed  and  hold  to  a  strict   accountability  tho^se  who  handle 


24 

your  property.  The  demand  for  improvement  rests  both  upon  patron 
and  manufacturer.  See  to  it  that  your  cows  have  food  and  drink  in 
kind  and  quantity  and  at  such  times  as  shall  produce  the  greatest  flow 
of  pure  and  Avholesome  milk.  See  that  it  is  delivered  at  the  factory 
in  the  best  possible  condition,  pay  the  manufacturer  well  for  its  man- 
ufacture, and,  if  he  fails  to  keep  up  to  the  demands  of  the  times  and 
shows  little  interest  in  the  property  you  have  entrusted  him  with,  then 
withdraw  your  j^atronage. 

The  reading  of  this  paper  was  followed  by  discussion. 

Mr.  Armstrong,  a  resident  of  Eastern  Vermont,  said  the  complaint 
of  milk  not  being  as  rich  as  last  season  was  general.  It  required  more 
milk  to  make  a  pound  of  cheese. 

Mr.  Babcock,  of  Herkimer,  inquired  on  what  basis  the  comparison 
had  been  made. 

Mr.  Hawley,  of  Onoiidaga,  said  where  grass  grew  so  rapidly  as  to 
turn  into  hay,  the  quality  of  the  milk  would  not  be  as  rich. 

Mr.  Bliss  thought  the  wet  season  made  the  grass  more  succulent  and 
not  as  nutritious.  He  thought  this  was  the  cause  rather  than  the 
grass  turning  to  hay. 

Mr.  McAcTam,  of  Oneida,  said  his  average  in  1873  was  9.76 
pounds  of  milk  to  a  pound  of  cheese ;  in  1875  it  Avas  9.G8.  They 
were  making  upwards  of  340,000  pounds  of  cheese  annually.  His 
experience  Avas  that  milk  had  not  deteriorated. 

Professor  L.  Wetherell,  of  Massachusetts,  said  he  had  a  friend  who 
began  feeding  his  cows  with  fodder-corn.  The  result  was  even  better 
than  stated  by  Mr.  Sheldon.  When  the  grass  became  dry  or  too 
scanty,  then  was  the  time  for  fodder-corn.  He  considered  it  the  best 
substitute  that  could  be  given  to  dairy  cows  in  July  and  August.  If  it 
Avas  objected  that  it  was  too  succulent,  the  same  might  be  said  of  the 
blue  grass  of  June,  which  made  the  richest  butter. 

Mr.  Lewis  thought  grass  was  better  than  fodder-corn.  June  grass 
never  had  over  60  to  66  per  cent,  of  Avater,  Avhile  fodder-corn  had  over 
90  per  cent.  The  good  results  obtained  from  fodder-corn  in  Massa- 
chusetts Avere  from  corn  partially  dried. 

Professor  Wetherell  said  the  experiment  he  had  related  was  made 
Avith  fodder-corn  just  cut,  and  not  dried.  Water  in  grass  Avas  less 
than  in  corn  ;  but  in  July  and  August  the  grass  Avas  gone  and  could 
not  be  had.  Then  Avas  the  time  Avhen  corn  gave  an  increased  per 
cent,  of  butter  and  cheese.  A  friend  of  his  had  obtained  better  results 
with  one  acre  of  corn  than  with  two  acres  of  grass. 

In  answer  to  Mr.  Farrington,  of  Canada,  Mr.  Sheldon  said  the  season 
in  LeAvis  county  had  been  a  medium  one,  Avith  considerable  ram  in 
August  and  September.  Mr.  McAdam  said  the  season  in  his  locality 
had  been  a  Avet  one.  Mr.  Sheldon  said  the  corn  he  had  referred  to  Avas 
soAvn  in  drills. 

Mr.  L.  S.  Hardin,  of  Kentucky,  said  coavs  fed  exclusively  upon  corn- 
fodder  shrunk  rapidly  in  milk.  It,  however,  did  very  Avell  to  feed  with 
dry  grass. 

Mr.  S.  D.  Talcott,  of  Rome,  said  the  past  season  he  had  half  an  acre 
of  sweet  corn.  He  picked  and  sold  a  large  quantity  of  corn  in  the 
ear,  in  Rome,,  feeding  the  balance  to  the  coavs.     He  Avas  so  Avell  pleased 


25 

with  the  experiment  that  he  would  plant  five  acres  of  sweet  corn  next 
season. 

Mr.  Farrington,  of  Canada,  said  he  understood  that  a  factoryman  in 
Oswego  had  prohibited  the  use  of  sowed  corn  by  his  patrons,  on  the 
ground  that  it  injured  the  cheese.  He  would  like  more  light  on  the 
subjeet. 

Jacob  Ellison,  of  Herkimer,  said  A.  L.  Fish,  one  of  the  noted  dairy- 
men of  the  State,  had  some  cheese  to  sell  at  one  time  at  a  high 
price.  They  were  the  finest  cheese  he  ever  had  in  his  factory.  These 
had  been  made  by  feeding  the  cows  ears  of  corn  fit  for  boiling,  salted. 
He  bought  the  cheese  for  8  cents,  when  the  highest  market  price  was 
6.  He  sold  them  in  Philadelphia  for  11  cents.  The  subject  of 
curing  cheese  was  one  of  vital  importance,  in  which  the  English  ex- 
celled the  Americans.  Mr.  Sheldon's  suggestions  on  this  subject  were 
very  valuable. 

L.  B.  Arnold  said  he  had  taken  the  milk  of  three  patrons  in  Octo- 
ber, who  were  feeding  nothing  but  grass,  and  the  milk  of  three  other 
patrons  who  fed  nothing  but  corn,  sowed  broadcast.  The  experiment 
was  to  take  an  equal  quantity  of  the  milk  of  each,  curdling  it  with  the 
same  amount  of  rennet,  at  the  same  temperature.  The  curd  was  then 
dried.  The  milk  of  the  corn-fed  cows  gave  8i  per  cent,  of  cui'd;  that 
of  the  grass-fed  only  G|  per  cent,  of  curd.  This  showed  forcibly  the 
value  of  corn.  At  Marengo,  Illinois,  cows  were  fed  with  grain  all 
summer.  The  butter  in  these  was  superior  to  tliat  made  from  the 
pure  blue  grass.  He  had  been  in  the  habit  of  thinking  that  the  best 
results  were  had  with  June  grass  alone,  but  this  grain-feeding  circum- 
stance showed  otherwise. 

AVHOLE    MTLK    CHEESE. 

xVPaper  read  hefore  the  American  Dairymen's  Association,  at  Rome, 
N.  Y.,  January  11,  by  J.  G.  CoJioe,  of  Frednma,  N.  Y. 

At  this  day,  when  the  general  mind  seems  to  be  turned  toward  the 
profit  arising  from  making  a  double  use  of  milk,  it  seems  somewhat 
uncalled  for  to  ask  your  attention  to  whole  milk  cheese,  but  when  your 
Secretary  assigned  me  my  subject,  I  have  no  doubt  he  kncAV  that  he 
assigued  me  one  that  would  suit  me,  and  one  that  I  felt  interested  in 
defending  and  advancing.  While  I  have  notliing  new  to  advance,  nor 
am  disposed  in  the  least  to  set  up  my  notions  for  others  to  practice,  I 
feel  that  if  by  advancing  some  of  my  blunders  and  erroneous  ideas,  I 
can  draw  the  truth  from  some  one  else,  I  shall  have  accoMiplished  some 
good  and  shall  lie  entirely  satisfied,  for  I  think  we  have  much  to  learn 
yet,  and  it  is  in  tliis  direction  that  I  am  looking  for  advancement  and 
increased  profit,  and  not  from  the  plan  of  selling  the  consumer  one 
thing  and  furnishing  him  another,  or  fron\  trying  to  see  how  much  we 
can  steal  from  the  consumer  without  his  knowing  that  we  have  stolen 
anything. 

After  getting  the  milk  into  the  vats,  there  is  not  much  troul)le  if  it 
is  all  right  and  everything  is  favorable.  I  heat  it  from  80"  to  85°  and 
add  enough  rennet  to  cause  coagulation  to  commence  in  tAventy  min- 
utes, and  cut  it  lengthwise  when  it  will  break  smooth  across  the  fin srer. 
3 


m 

Theu  let  it  stand  until  it  settles  a  little,  and  cut  it  crosswise.  I  do  all 
the  cutting  with  the  ordinary  perpendicular  knife,  and  cut  but  once 
each  way.  After  the  curd  settles  a  Jittle,  I  commence  stirring  and  stir 
once  round  the  vat  before  I  apply  any  heat.  I  then  apply  the  heat 
very  gently  at  first,  and  increase  the  application  of  the  heat  and  motion 
of  the  curd  as  the  curd  hardens.  This  process  should  occupy  from 
one  hour  to  one  hour  and  a  quarter  and  the  heat  be  increased  to  100". 
It  is  very  important  that  the  curd  should  be  stirred  just  enough  to 
keep  from  matting  and  no  more.  I  now  hold  it  at  98°  to  100'^,  stirring 
the  curd  just  enough  to  keep  from  matting  and  no  more  until  the  right 
degree  of  acid  has  developed — which  1  determine  by  the  hot  iron  test — 
then  drain  off  the  whey  and  dip  the  curd  into  the  sink  and  let  it 
stand  there  one  hour,  stirring  just  enough  to  keep  from  matting,  then 
add  2f  lbs.  of  salt  to  one  thousand  lbs.  of  milk,  and  put  to  press  in 
Eraser's  gang  press  which  does  the  pressing  better  than  any  other  I 
know  of  now,  but  which  I  think  will  do  it  much  better  when  he  adds 
some  attachments  that  will  keep  it  tightened  up  all  the  time  so  that 
the  cheese  will  not  be  relieved  from  pressure  when  they  settle 
together. 

Now  although  the  above  is  true  and  correct,  I  cannot  work  half  of 
my  vats  strictly  after  this  plan,  and  why?  Because  the  dairymen  do 
not  deliver  us  milk  that  is  all  right.  Altfiough  I  am  glad  to  know 
there  are  many  worthy  exceptions,  it  is  certainly  a  plain  stubborn  fact 
that  it  is  easy  to  find  plenty  of  those  avaricious  beings  whose  only 
ambition  in  this  direction  is  to  get  good  weight  for  their  dairy  liquids 
and  get  credit  for  it  and  get  out  of  sight,  no  matter  if  a  cow  stepped 
into  the  milk  pail,  or  if  the  can  was  not  washed,  or  if  the  strainer — if 
he  ever  uses  one— fell  into  the  can,  dirt  and  all,  or  if  the  can  stood 
where  the  water  from  the  eaves  of  the  barn  run  into  it  all  night,  or  if 
a  large  portion  of  this  dairy  liquid  is  sour  whey,  filtered  through  an 
old  toothless  cow  with  a  perverted  appetite,  that  will  drink  anywhere 
from  1  to  10  gallons  of  the  putrid  stuff  and  deliver  it  to  the  milk-pail 
in  but  little  better  condition  to  be  made  into  cheese  than  when  she 
took  it  into  her  mouth.  Here,  in  my  opinion,  is  the  most  productive 
cause  of  failure  to  produce  good  results,  and  these  are  the  men  who 
most  need  educating,  but  how  shall  we  educate  them?  We  seldom 
see  them  at  our  conventions  and  they  are  not  at  all  likely  to  be  readers. 
Whatever  other  virtues  a  cheese-maker  may  possess,  if  he  lacks  that 
one  virtue — patience — he  has  mistaken  his  calling,  for  to  get  along 
smoothly  in'  this  business  he  must  be  nearly  all  patience,  and  I  know  of 
no  other  way  for  us  than  to  continue  patiently  presenting  before  the 
minds  of  our  patrons  the  fact  that  it  is  impossible  for  us  to  make  a 
good  article  of  cheese  out  of  a  poor  article  of  milk,  and  that  if  they 
deliver  a  poor  article  of  milk  they  will  surely  get  poor  returns  and  no 
profits.  But  there  is  another  side  to  this  question.  Manufacturers 
have  their  faults  as  well  as  their  responsibilities  to  look  after.  J  do 
not  by  any  means  denounce  wholesome  competition  between  factories, 
but  too  many  manufacturers  and  factory  proprietors  work  up  a  petty 
jealousy  and  an  unwholesome  strife,  and  step  down  and  out  of  their 
sphere,  and  go  to  the  farmers  and  banter  in  all  ways  to  get  their  milk, 
and  thus  place  themselves  where  they  feel  under  too  much  obligation 
to  take  everything  that  comes  to  them  from  those  dairies  in  milk  cans. 


27 

It  is  absolutely  necessary  for  a  manufacturer  to  liave  some  independ- 
ence with  his  great  store  of  patience,  for  he  certainly  has  no  right  to 
take  a  can  of  bad  milk  and  mix  it  Avith  the  good,  as  he  must  do  some 
of  his  patrons,  if  not  all,  a  very  great  injury  by  so  doing. 

But  far  worse  than  all  this,  the  crime  that  must  work  its  own  rum, 
and  that  is  to-day  jeopardizing  the  whole  dairy  business,  and  that,  in 
my  opinion,  has  already  done  a  work  of  mischief  that  will  require 
years  of  good  management  to  overcome,  is  the  miserable,  degrading 
practice  of  stealing  the  cream  out  of  the  cheese.  I  have  taken  a  great 
deal  of  interest  in  watching  this  business  from  the  first  I  learned  of 
the  practice.  I  watched  the  manufacture  and  have  followed  the  cheese 
to  the  place  of  consumption,  and  have  formed  the  following  conclu- 
sions Avith  regard  to  their  mode  of  operations,  most  of  which  I  know 
to  be  correct :  After  stealing  the  cream  from  the  milk  they  make  the 
cheese  to  resemble  whole-milk  cheese  as  nearly  as  possible,  and  then 
watch  the  curing  process  very  closely,  for  there  is  a  time,  although  it 
is  very  short,  when  this  cheese  resembles  whole-milk  cheese  very 
closely,  and  when  this  time  comes  they  rush  their  cheese  into  market 
Avith  every  box  branded,  "  Oakville  factory  cheese,"  or  "  Chautauqua 
Co.  factory,"  or  "New  York  State  factory  cheese,"'  or  something  else 
that  will  imply  that  it  is  the  regular,  genuine  factory  cheese.  What 
is  this  but  fraud?  What  is  the  cheese  but  counterfeit,  and  why  not 
punish  the  man  that  makes  counterfeit  cheese  as  well  as  the  one  that 
makes  counterfeit  money  ?  This  cheese  being  sent  to  market  at  just 
the  right  time  of  its  life  appears  quite  like  the  genuine,  and  a  dealer 
finds  that  he  can  buy  it  at  perhaps  a  cent  below  the  regular  price  for 
the  prime  article,  and  that  he  can  sell  it  to  the  retailer  as  the  prime 
article,  and  of  course  he  does  so.  Now  comes  Mr.  Smith,  who  is  a 
customer,  and  Avho,  like  other  customers,  is  not  an  expert,  and  takes  a 
piece  home,  and  perhaps  takes  more  pieces,  but  after  a  time  he  is  heard 
to  say,  "I  don't  know  what  is  the  matter  with  our  folks  ;  Ave  used  to 
eat  lots  of  cheese,  but  lately  when  aat  get  any  Ave  eat  a  little  the  first 
day,  and  like  it  pretty  well,  but  it  does  not  quite  fill  the  bill,  and  the 
next  day  it  seems  very  dry,  and  about  the  third  day  it  is  throAvn  out, 
and  somehoAV  we  don't  seem  to  care  for  it,  and  have  quit  using  it 
altogether."  This  may  seem  of  little  account,  but  it  is  a  complaint 
that  I  heard  myself,  and  it  struck  me  as  containing  a  lesson  that  we 
might  study  Avith  profit,  for  Ave  know  that  the  great  majority  of  the 
cheese  consumers  are  not  expert  judges  and  in  fact  know  but 
very  little  about  hoAV  cheese  is  made  at  all,  and  it  is  certainly 
asking  too  much  of  them  to  say  that  they  ought  to  know  the  differ- 
ence between  a  half-skim  and  Avhole-milk  cheese,  Avhen  we  know  some 
very  good  judges  among  tlie  dealers  ai'e  being  deceived  Avith  the  half- 
skims  every  day. 

It  seems  clear  to  me  that  the  time  has  come  when  it  is  absolutely 
necessary  for  tlie  consumers,  as  Avell  as  the  honest  producers,  to  have 
some  protection,  and  I  think  it  the  imperative  duty  of  this  convention 
to  take  some  steps  toAvard  liaving  a  law  passed  to  compel  all  manu- 
facturers to  In-and  their  goods  Avhat  they  are  and  call  them  by  their 
right  names. 

When  I  have  sour  milk  to  handle  I  keep  it  as  cool  as  possible  until 
1  have  it  about  all  in  the  vat,  and  then  heat  it  (piickly  to  7S^  to  80'-, 


^8 

and  add  rennet  enough  to  have  it  ready  to  cut  in  from  10  to  20  min- 
utes ;  cut  it  once  each  way  and  apply  the  heat  as  rapidly  as  possible  ; 
turn  it  over  and  re-cut  once  each  way ;  as  soon  as  the  curd  settles  a 
little  turn  hot  water  into  the  mass  to  accellerate  the  heating.  I  let 
the  degree  of  acid  govern  the  degree  of  heat ;  if  it  shows  acid  enough 
by  the  hot  iron  I  heat  but  very  little,  but  if  I  have  time  before  the  acid 
developes  in  the  cui-d,  I  heat  to  about  85*^.  During  the  heating  pro- 
cess I  test  the  curd  often  with  the  hot  iron,  and  the  moment  I  find 
the  right  degree  of  acid  I  start  it  toward  the  cooler,  no  matter  what 
the  other  conditions  are,  and  if  I  have  overtaken  the  acid  I  treat  it 
the  same  as  sweet  milk  curd,  but  if  not  I  give  it  less  time  to  drain 
and  put  in  the  usual  amount  of  salt,  not  that  it  requires  so  much,  but 
the  extra  amount  of  whey  it  contains  will  wash  out  the  extra  amount 
of  salt.  Of  course  these  cheese  require  more  time  to  cure  and  should 
therefore  have  the  warmest  place  in  the  curing  room. 

When  I  have  a  vat  of  tainted  milk  I  add  to  it  some  sour  whey  if  I 
have  it,  and  proceed  about  as  with  good  milk,  except  that  I  use  less 
rennet,  untill  it  is  ready  to  dip.  Of  course  the  curd  is  rebellious  and 
refuses  to  remain  in  the  vat  and  comes  to  the  top  of  the  whey,  but  I 
pay  no  regard  to  that  until  it  becomes  ready  to  dip.  I  then  run  off 
the  whey  and  either  heap  up  the  curd  in  the  vat  or  cooler — no  matter 
which — until  it  becomes  thoroughly  matted  together,  and  then  cut  it 
up  and  grind  it,  and  the  longer  time  occupied  in  the  grinding  process 
the  better,  as  the  curd  should  be  well  exposed  in  the  open  air.  Salt 
about  as  usual,  ana  if  possible  let  it  stand  from  one  to  four  hours 
before  putting  to  press. 

DISCUSSION"  FOLLOWING   ME.  CAHOE's   TAPER. 

Mr.  Armstrong,  of  Vermont,  was  in  favor  of  the  Chedder  process. 
It  made  the  most  cheese  and  the  best  quality.  It  also  required  less 
skill  as  it  Avas  not  so  very  material  when  the  whey  was  drawn,  as  it 
was  when  the  curd  was  fully  ripened  in  the  whey. 

He  gave  his  experience  with  tainted  milk.  It  diminishes  the  yield 
of  cheese.  A  100  lbs.  of  bad  milk  would  shrink  the  yield  of  a  vat  of 
good  milk  more  than  the  cheese  from  the  tainted  milk  would  add  to  it. 
He  related  a  case  in  which  he  got  less  cheese  from  a  vat  of  milk  by 
mixing  a  100  lbs.  of  tainted  milk  with  it,  than  he  would  have  got  from 
the  good  milk  alone.  He  had  better  thrown  the  tainted  milk  away,  as 
it  injured  the  quality  as  well  as  diminished  the  product.  He  estimates 
that  milk  .much  tainted  makes  10  per  cent,  less  cheese  than  sound 
milk. 

Mr.  Chapman,  of  Madison,  confirmed  Mr.  Armstrong's  remarks, 
about  tainted  milk.  He  had  found  it  took  more  for  a  pound  of  cheese 
than  milk  not  tainted.  Mr.  0.  thought  patrons  ought  to  take  more 
pains  to  guard  against  taints  in  milk  by  a  more  watchful  attention  in 
respect  to  allowing  carrion  about  the  premises,  in  more  carefiilly 
cleansing  vessels  in  which  milk  is  handled,  and  in  every  way  securing 
good  air,  water,  and  food  for  the  cows,  and  by  shielding  milk  from  the  sun 
while  going  to  the  factory.  Defect  creeps  into  the  milk  in  such  ways 
which  the  manufacturer  can't  detect,  and  for  which  he  should  not  be 
held  responsible.     It  was  easier  to  detect  watering  milk  than  the  insin- 


29 

uatiug  effect  of  taint.  He  could,  with  the  aid  of  the  lactometer,  detect 
a  very  small  dilution  Avith  water,  but  he  had  no  gauge  for  taints  Avhich 
was  infallible.  Tainting  milk  by  the  addition  of  bad  water  was  worst 
of  all,  especially  when  added  at  night,  as  it  lay  in  the  milk  all  night  to 
develop  evil  and  that  only. 

Alvin  Meddaugh,  of  Allegany,  said  taints  come  from  other  causes 
than  bad  air  and  bad  water.  Hot  sunshine  uj^on  the  cows  would  pro- 
duce it,  and  any  other  cause  which  will  make  the  cows  feverish.  He 
thought  removing  all  cause  of  feverishness  in  the  cows,  would  remove 
nearly  all  causes  of  tainted  milk. 

SKETCHES   OF    ENGLISH    CHEESE  MAKIXG  AND    PERSOXAL  EXPERIENCES, 
BY   SETH    BOXEOY,  OF    HERKIMER. 

About  the  year  1835  the  Eoyal  Agricultural  Society  of  England 
appointed  a  commissioner  to  visit  all  the  principal  dairies  of  England, 
and  to  make  a  very  minute  report  of  the  entire  management  from  the 
rearing  of  the  calves  to  the  marketing  of  the  dairy  products.  The 
report  was  lengthy,  able,  very  simple  and  minute  in  its  descriptive 
features.  Although  their  conveniences  and  manner  of  manipulation 
wei-e  somewhat  crude,  there  were  a  few  facts  to  be  gathered  that  were 
and  are  still  of  absolute  necessity  to  secure  success  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  cheese.  It  was  evident  that  the  best  dairies  were  managed 
with  scrupulous  neatness,  that  with  rather  a  uniform  humid  climate 
(for  which  England  is  noted)  gave  them  a  good  material.  The  process 
of  manufacture  was  slow  and  on  a  slow  scale  of  heat.  The  curd  was 
largely  ripened  after  it  was  taken  from  the  whey;  in  many  cases  it 
Avas  not  put  to  press  till* the  next  day,  in  that  case  it  wis  kept  warm 
near  a  fire  in  a  solid  or  compact  state,  and  was  what  the  English  called 
skewed  occasionally  with  sharp  sticks  to  let  the  whey  more  thoroughly 
drain  off. 

But  the  process  no  doubt  assisted  very  much  in  ripening  the  curd 
for  the  press.  Some  of  the  best  results  of  the  writer  has  been  when 
the  whey  has  been  a  little  prematurely  drawn  off,  and  the  curd  left  on 
the  bottom  of  the  vat  in  a  compact  state  to  ripen,  the  vat  being  kept  a 
little  warm.  This  can  be  done  only  when  the  material  is  good  and 
the  curd  is  to  be  ground.  It  would  not  be  saying  too  much  to  say 
that  many  of  the  changes  in  the  manufacture  of  American  cheese 
within  the  last  twenty  years,  could  be  traced  to  the  above  report.  In 
coming  to  the  early  introduction  of  American  dairying  we  find  a  very 
different  system  of  manipulation.  The  curd  was  broken  very  fine, 
rapidly  worked  and  scalded,  and  was  very  properly  called  the  whirl 
system.  Although  the  process  was  very  uniformly  adopted,  the  results 
were  very  varied.  Some  dairies  turned  out  dry  and  hard,  others  soft, 
puffy,  and  porous,  and  seemed  to  puzzle  the  wisest  heads.  For  no 
better  reason  for  these  varied  results  the  cause  was  attributed  to  the 
action  of  rennet,  and  rennet  became  the  scape  goat  for  everything 
that  turned  up  wrong,  especially  with  dealers  and  consumers,  that  as 
a  hobby  had  its  day.  Finally  it  came  to  be  understood  that  the  varied 
condition  of  the  milk  more  than  any  other  agency  Avas  the  cause  of 
the  varied  results.  Then  the  acidulating  process  stepped  in  and  Avas 
and  is  still  more  or  less  a  hobby.     The  result  has  been  the  production 


30 

of  cheese  that  would  endure  the  rough  experience  of  the  export  trade 
with  comparative  safety,  yet  it  has  been  at  the  expense  of  rot  and 
character. 

How  premium  cheese  is  made  may  begin  the  enquiry.  Nega- 
tively it  is  not  made  the  day  following  a  hot,  sultry  atmosphere  when 
the  milk  was  secreted  and  produced  under  its  influence.  There  was 
a  paper  read  before  this  Association  at  one  of  its  conventions  in  Utica, 
upon  animal  heat,  its  influence  and  remedies.  The  premises  taken  were 
that  animal  heat  was  always  the  same  or  alike,  and  whatever  the  remedy 
it  would  produce  the  same  result.  This,  at  the  time,  was  the  reverse 
of  the  writer's  views,  and  from  further ,  observation  the  conclusion 
is  that  animal  heat  is  no  two  days  alike,  unless  the  atmosphere  is  the 
same. 

This  is  a  very  important  subject  and  should  be  thoroughly  studied. 

It  is  not  made  when  one  or  more  patrons  deliver  milk  at  the  factory 
that  Avill  sour  in  two  or  three  hours,  and  require  11  lbs.  of 
milk  to  make  a  pound  of  cheese,  that  is  25  per  cent.  ofiP  in  value. 
Such  patrons  are  not  aware  the  amount  of  damage  they  inflict.  In 
short,  it  is  not  from  sour  milk  with  hand  hay  rakes,  nor  sour  curds. 

Affirmatively,  it  is  made  when  the  milk  has  been  manufactured  or 
secreted  by  the  herds  in  a  pure  atmosphere,  and  been  well  cared  for, 
Avhen  everything  about  the  factory  is  in  order,  when  9^  or  9^  lbs.  of 
milk  will  make  a  pound  of  cured  cheese.  The  milk  set  at  82°  with 
milk  perfectly  sweet  rennet  that  has  been  prepared  if  possible,  with 
pure  soft  water,  that  is  pungent  yet  lias  no  more  odor  than  water  from 
the  spring,  sufficient  to  coagulate  the  milk  in  30  min.,  of  a  consistency 
not  too  firm  and  clammy,  but  of  a  brittle  texture  that  will  require  care- 
ful cutting  and  handling.  And  if  properly  handled  with  the  hands, 
and  carefully  warmed,  the  whey  will  be  of  a  clear  bright  straw  color. 
The  curd  should  be  largely  matured  in  a  temperature  about  92^^,  and 
the  finishing  at  95°  to  98°,  should  be  short,  not  to  exceed  from  30 
to  60  min.  The  heating  should  be  slow  and  quiet,  and  as  far  as  prac- 
ticable, from  the  sides  of  the  vat.  The  curd  should  be  handled  with 
the  hands  in.  a  light  and  rather  lively  manner,  yet  very  carefully  while 
warming,  and  the  result  of  every  move  closely  watched.  The  indica- 
tions of  the  condition  of  the  milk  and  the  result  of  right  or  wrong 
handling  are  sure  and  unmistakable,  but  are  not  easily  explained  unac- 
companied by  practical  illustration.  There  is  a  number  of  qualifi- 
cations that  are  requisite  to  make  a  good  cheese-maker.  They  should 
be  good  judges  of  cheese.  This  can  be  acquired  with  very  little  of  the 
right  kind  of  instruction.  It  is  an  immutable  law  in  agriculture  as 
well  as  in  the  mechanic  arts,  that  a  producer  will  not  advance 
much  beyond  the  scope  of  their  conceptioa  of  the  merits  of  their  own 
products.  The  once  prevalent  idea  that  it  was  not  necessary  for  any 
one  to  be  an  expert  judge  of  cheese  is  pining  away. 

These  few  hints  have  been  gotten  from  twenty  years'  close  observa- 
tion, and  there  is  room  for  them  to  be  very  much  enlarged. 

At  the  close  of  Mr.  Bonfoy's  address,  Mr.  Farrington  of  Canada, 
remarked  that  the  improvement  in  the  quality  of  American  cheese  for 
the  past  five  years  had  not  been  enough  to  be  perceptible.  The  doc- 
trines advanced  by  this  and  other  associations  are,  indeed  sound  and 
right,  but  they  do  not  fall  where  they  are  most  needed,  because  the 


31 

men  who  should  hear  them  neither  attend  dairy  meetings  nor  read 
agricultural  papers.  Factoryraen  have  learned  to  do  their  duty  well,  but 
they  cannot  make  much  further  advance  without  reform  on  the  side 
of  the  patrons  of  factories.  They  must  be  disabused  of  the  idea  that 
any  milk  which  they  can  crowd  a  manufacturer  to  accept  is  good 
enough  to  make  cheese  ot.  The  vital  question  now  is,  how  can  we 
reach  the'patrons  ?  His  view  of  the  solution  of  this  question  was,  the 
formation  of  county  and  town  associations.  Dairymen  who  do  not 
feel  able  to  endure  the  expense  of  two  or  three  days'  absence  in  a  dis- 
tant town  or  city,  might  be  induced  to  attend  a  meeting  so  near  home 
that  they  can  go  and  return  in  a  day.  It  seems  the  only  feasible  way  in 
which  this  class  of  men  can  be  reached. 

In  answer  to  questions,,  Mr.  Bonfoy  said,  he  works  in  the  cream  by 
skimming  the  night's  milk  and  washing  the  cream  through  the  strainer 
with  milk  at  about  100*^  of  temperature.  He  did  this  just  before  put- 
ting in  the  rennet,  so  that  in  stirring  in  the  rennet  the  cream  was  kept 
mixed  with  the  milk  till  the  time  it  was  about  to  coagulate.  When 
the  curd  is  well  formed  cut  two  ways  with  Young's  curd  knife.  Keeps 
them  one  hour  at  82,  then  raises  to  88,  then  to  92,  then  to  1)8. 
Thinks  the  method  of  heating  has  much  effect  upon  the  resulting 
cheese.  Heats  from  the  sides  of  the  vat  only.  Keeps  heat  going  30 
or  JO  minutes  and  then  rests  awhile.  Works  slow  and  thinks  by  so 
doing  prevents  loss  of  cream.  Works  by  hand.  Salts,  24^  to  3  lbs.  to 
1000  lbs  of  milk.     Receives  milk  twice  a  day. 

Mr.  Hawley,  of  Onondaga,  spoke  in  favor  of  Mr.  Farrington's  views, 
and  their  suggestions  evidently  met  the  approval  of  the  convention, 
.and  the  experience  of  all  county  and  local  organizations  corroborated 
them. 

The  chair  announced  the  following  committees: 

On  Nominations — Madison  Cooper,  of  Jeiferson  ;  A.  B.  Armstrong, 
of  Vermont;  0.  L.  Sheldon,  of  Lewis. 

On  Finance — L.  T.  Hawley,  of  Onondaga;  J.  G.  Cahoe,  of  Chau- 
tauqua ;  Robert  McAdams,  of  Oneida. 

On  Dairy  Apparatus — J.  Ellison,  of  Herkimer ;  E.  Caswell,  of 
Canada ;  0.  S.  Bliss,  of  A^ermont. 

To  nieet  delegates  from  other  Associations  on  the  subject  of  Centen- 
nial Display — John  T.  Ellsworth,  of  Barre,  Mass.;  Hon.  Wm.  A. 
Johnson,  of  Erie,  N.  Y. 


DAIRY  STOCK. 


ADDRESS    BY  PKOF.  L.  AVETHERELL,  OE  THE   BOSTON   (MASS.)  CULTIVATOR. 

Mr.  President:  Memlyers  of  the  American  Dairymen's  Association: 
Ladies  ajid  Gentlemen :  These  occasions  of  meeting  and  greeting 
are  among  the  pleasantest  of  the  year.  None  of  our  rural  anniversa- 
ries during  the  circling  seasons,  numerous  and  varied  as  they  are,  is  of 
equal  importance  to  this,  as  it  seems  to  me.  Does  every  recurring- 
anniversary  advance  the  known  into  the  realms  of  the  hitherto  un- 
known ?  If  so,  then  we  meet  not  in  vain,  but  shall  return  to  our 
homes  wiser  than  when  we  left  them.     The  growtii  of  knowledge  is 


32 

slow,  and  its  advancement  the  fruit  of  the  most  careful  and  thorough 
study  and  investigation.  What  we  have  to  shun  and  guard  against 
here  as  everywhere,  is,  the  formalistic  or  fossilific  state — an  organic 
form  of  an  inorganic  substance  or  entity.  What  this  and  all  like  asso- 
ciations need  and  must  have  for  their  perpetuity  is  vitality,  vigor  and 
growth.  Society,  socialogy,  civilization,  must  be  more  than  tradition, 
more  than  form,  else  they  will  become  dead,  fossiliferous  petrefactions. 
It  will  not  do  on  this  Centennial  year  to  recline  as  a  people,  as  a  nation, 
on  what  we  have  accomplished,  but  Ave  are  rather  to  consider  the  brief 
epoch,  called  a  century,  but  a  germ  as  it  were,  just  bursting  into  life, 
vigor,  growth.  Our  country  is  America  as  our  name  implies  ;  and  our 
motto  is  Excelsior  I 

But  to  my  theme,  as  the  time  allotted  me  is  short. 

Dairy  stock  and  how  to  breed  it — is  the  subject  assigned  to  me  for 
discussion,  a  more  trite  theme  than  which,  could  hardly  have  been 
named — yet,  of  the  importance  of  which  to  dairymen,  none  of  greater 
interest  could  have  been  selected;  for,  upon  dairy  stock  depends  dairy 
husbandry — for  the  promotion  of  which  the  American  Dairymen's 
Association  was  organized  some  ten  years  ago,  and  during  this  decade 
of  years  it  has  met  annually  for  the  discussion  of  such  topics  by  such 
intelligent,  practical  men  as  shall  tend  to  advance  and  promote  this 
special  department  of  rural  industry,  than  which  there  is  none  of 
greater  importance  to  farmers  in  portions  of  your  own  .State,  as  of 
New  England,  the  West,  and  the  Canadas.  This  association  has 
seemed  to  be  governed  by  the  sentiment  inculcated  by  the  motto  of  the 
Royal  Agricultural  Society  of  England,  which  is — '•'  Practice  with 
Science."  Practice  signifies  frequent  actions  of  the  same  or  similar 
kind,  custom  or  habit,  use  or  usage,  method  or  art  of  doing  anything, 
exercise  of  any  vocation  or  profession.  Science  is  knowledge ;  scien- 
tia — science  from  scio,  to  know ;  practical  science  is  knowledge  de- 
rived from  experiment  and  the  classification  of  particular  facts,  learned 
or  gained  from  and  by  experience  and  observation. 

"  Science,"  says  Dr.  Porter,  President  of  Yale  College,  "  is  rooted  in 
common  sense  and  ought  never  to  separate  itself  from  intimate  rela- 
tions with  common  life.  Science  is  no  more  a  foe  to,  than  hostile  to 
common  sense  ;  for  when  its  methods  are  closely  studied  they  are 
found  to  be  nothing  more  than  a  trained  application  of  the  methods 
of  common  sensi  to  a  limited  class  of  objects.  The  rules  of  inference 
and  methods  of  induction  are  as  truly  applied  in  the  occasions  of  every 
day  life  by  the  humblest  of  men  as  by  the  most  profound  scientist. 
Science  neither  increaases  nor  transcends  the  precision  of  common 
knowledge.  In  brief,  science  is  an  extension  of  the  perception  of  the 
means  of  reasoning.  Science  in  its  earlier  phases  attains  to  certainty 
of  foreknowledge;  in  its  later  phases  it  attains  to  completeness.  We 
begin  by  discovering  a  relation,  and  end  by  discovering  the  relation. 
The  first  achievement  of  the  scientist  is  to  fortell  the  kind  of  phe- 
nomenon that  will  occur  under  specific  conditions  ;  his  test  is  not  only 
to  know  the  kind  but  the  amount.  In  other  words,  undeveloped 
science  is  qualitative  prevision ;  developed  science  is  quantitative  pre- 
vision. Whether  given  phenomena  be  measurable,  or  determinable,  is 
the  test  to  be  applied.  Space  being  measurable,  hence  geometry  :  force 
and  space  being  measurable,  hence  statics ;  time,  force  and  space  being 


33 

measiiriible,  hence  dynamics/'  Thus  reasons  Herbert  Spencer ;  and 
such  is  good  common  sense. 

As  we  pass  from  qualitative  to  quantitative  prevision  we  pass  from 
inductive  science  to  deductive  science.  Science  while  inductive, 
purely,  is  qualitative  ;  when  inaccurately  quantitative,  it  is  partly  in- 
ductive and  partly  deductive:  when  accurately  quantitative  it  is  de- 
ductive. In  tine,  science  and  the  knowledge  of  the  uncultured  are 
alike  in  the  nature  of  their  previsions,  though  differing  widely  in  their 
range,  the  cultured  or  learned  man  having  a  much  wider  range  than 
the  uncultured  man. 

Dairy  stock  is  such,  as  all  will  agree,  as  is  bred  and  kept  for  the 
production  of  milk  for  the  manufacture  of  butter  and  cheese,  either 
or  both.  That  breed  of  cows  that  from  a  given  amount  of  feed,  will 
produce  the  largest  mess  of  milk,  suitable  for  the  purposes  in  view — 
butter  or  cheese — is  the  breed  that  dairymen  desire.  All  agreed  thus 
far  you  will  all  heartily  respond.  But  Avhat  breed  is  that  ?  All  at  once 
inquire:  Ay,  there's  the  rub.  True  indeed:  Herein  is  involved  a 
whole  chapter  of  equations;  the  soil  is  to  be  considered;  the  quality 
of  the  cattle ;  the  food  or  feed  adopted ;  the  buying-in  price  ;  the  feed- 
er's or  dairyman's  skill ;  the  shelter  ;  the  season,  etc.,  etc. 

Of  the  breeds,  which  are.  numerous — but  few  will  be  mentioned  : 
Shorthorns,  Holsteins  and  Swiss,  among  the  large  breeds  ;  among  the 
smaller  are  the  Devons,  Ayrshires,  Jerseys  and  Guernseys ;  and  what 
are  popularly  called  "  Natives,"  nondescripts,  animals  without  pedi- 
gree— abnormal,  such  as  cannot  be  classified.  Among  these  are  some 
good  nJlch  cows — as  the  Oakes  cow,  once  so  famous  in  Essex  Co., 
Mass. 

"The  various  breeds  among  domesticated  animals,"  says  Prof.  Agas- 
siz,  "  are  the  Avork  of  man  ;  species  were  created  by  God."  Bos  tcmrus, 
from  which  species  came  the  upwards  of  forty  varieties  now  enumer- 
ated and  described,  may  be  traced  back,  some  of  them,  to  man's  earliest 
existence — these  varieties  being  tlie  results  of  domesticity,  where  the 
mind  of  man  has  been  at  work  changing  or  influencing  the  organiza- 
tion to  some  degree  or  extent  in  order  the  better  to  tit  them  for  special 
purposes  or  given  ends.  ••  Varieties,"  says  Prichards,  the  former  Pres- 
ident of  the  Ethnological  Society  in  London,  and  the  author  of  the 
Natural  History  of  Man,  •'  in  natural  history  are  such  diversities  in 
individuals  and  their  progeny  as  are  olxscrvnl  to  take  place  within  the 
limits  ot  species."     He  continues  : 

•'  Permanent  varieties  are  those  which,  having  once  taken  place, 
continue  to  be  propagated  in  the  breed  in  perpetuity.  The/c/c/ of 
their  origination  must  he  knoion  by  observation  or  iivfiueiice,  since,  the 
proof  of  this  fact  being  defective,  it  is  more  philosophical  to  consider 
characters  which  are  perpetually  inherited  specific  or  original.  The 
term  permanent  variety  would  otherwise  express  the  meaniny  which 
properly  belongs  to  species.  The  properties  of  species  are  two,  namely, 
original  difference  of  characters  and  Vae perpetuity  of  their  transmis- 
sion, of  which  only  the  latter  can  belong  to  permanent  varieties.  Tiie 
instances  are  so  many  in  which  it  is  doubtful  whether  a  particular 
tribe  is  to  be  eonsidered  as  a  distinct  species  or  only  a  variety  of  some 
other  tribe,  that  it  has  been  found,  by  naturalists,  convenient  to  have 
a  designation  applicable  to  either." 


34 

SHORTHORNS. 

If  the  dairyman  have  a  farm  suited  to  the  keeping  of  large  cattle, 
then  one  of  the  first  three  breeds  or  races  will  he  selected.  Of  the" 
Shorthorns,  Thomas  Bates,  of  Kirklevington,  said  in  a  letter,  to  the 
editor  of  the  New  Farmer^,'  Jourrial,  in  1842.  "I  named  this  bull," 
(the  one  he  was  describing,)  "  Duke  of  Northumberland,"  to  perpet- 
uate the  commemoration,  that  it  is  to  the  judgment  and  attention  of 
the  present  Duke  of  Northumberland  that  this  country  and  the  world 
are  indebted  for  a  tribe  of  cattle  which  Charles  Colling  repeatedly  as- 
sured me  loas  the  best  he  ever  had  or  ever  saw,  and  that  his  first  cow  of 
this  tribe  was  better  than  any  he  could  produce  from  her,  though  he 
put  her  to  his  best  bulls,  which  improved  all  other  cattle  ;  and  this 
tribe  of  Shorthorns  was  in  the  possession  of  the  ancestors  of  the  pres- 
ent Duke,  for  200  years  ;  and  Sir  Hugh  Smythson,  the  grandfather  of 
the  present  Duke,  ikept  up  the  celebrity  of  this  tribe,  by  paying  the 
best  attention  to  their  breeding.  A  century  ago,  he  used  regularly  to 
weigh  his  cattle  and  the  food  they  eat,  so  as  to  ascertain  the  improve- 
ment made  i7i  proportion  to  the  food  consumed.  This  system  I  adopted 
above  fifty  years  ago,  not  knowing  then  that  it  had  been  previously 
done,  and  it  was  from  the  knowledge  thus  acquired,  by  weighing  the 
food  consumed,  and  ascertaining  the  improvement  made,  tliat  I  became 
enabled  to  judge  of  the  real  'merits  of  animals  by  their  external  char- 
acters, and  in  my  experience  as  a  breeder,  I  have  never  found  it  to  fail. 
Fr.m  that  knowledge  thus  acquired,  I  ^QlecteA  this  tribe  of  Shorthorns 
as  superior  to  all  other  cattle,  not  only  as  small  consumers,  but  as 
great  growers  and  quick  graziers  with  the  finest  quality  of  beef.  Find- 
ing this  tribe  of  cattle  extraordinary  as  great  milkers  induced  me  to 
purchase  my  first  Duchess.  She  calved  at  Halton  Castle  in  Northum- 
berland, on  June  7,  1807 ;  she  was  kept  on  grass  only,  in  a  pasture 
with  nineteen  other  cows,  and  made  in  butter  and  milk  for  some 
months,  above  tivo  guineas  per  week,  or  forty-two  shillings,  English 
money,  (110  in  gold  in  our  coin).  As  proof  that  this  tribe  of  Short- 
horns improved  under  my  care,  I  may  say,  that  ''  Duke  of  Northum- 
berland's dam  consumed  one-third  less  food  than  my  first  DuchesF, 
purchased  in  1804,  and  her  milk  yielded  one-third  more  butter  for 
.every  quart  of  milk,  while  the  consumption  of  food  was  one-third  less, 
and  there  was,  also,  a  greater  growth  of  carcass  and  an  increased  apti- 
tude to  fatten." 

Mr.  Bates  concludes  :  ''  In  1782,  I  became  impressed  with  the  im- 
portance of  selecting  the  very  best  animals  to  breed  from,  and  for 
twenty-five  years  afterwards  lost  no  opportunity  of  ascertaining  the 
merits  of  the  various  tribes  of  shorthorns.  I  havo  never  used  any 
bull  that  had  not  Duchess  blood  since  I  became  possessed  of  this  tribe 
without  perceiving  immediately,  error — except  Fielvidere,  whose  blood 
in  the  Princess  cow  went  direct  from  Hubback  to  Favorite,  as  in  the 
Duchess  tribe." 

In  1844,  Thos.  Bates  in  another  letter  to  the  editor  of  the  Farmers' 
Journal,  said :  "  When  I  began  breeding  in  early  life,  I  acted  on  sure 
])rinciples  and  from  data  that  can  never  deceive  ;  and  success  has  been 
the  certain  result,  and  my  breed  of  ^^horthorned  cattle  may  be  yet  fur- 
ther improved  from  my  own  herd,  and  they  can  be  from  no  other  ; 
wherever  tliey  go  they  carry  their  good  qualities  with  them." 


35 

The  renowned  American  Statesman,  Mr.  Webster,  at  the  Oxford 
meeting  of  the  Koyal  Agricultural  Society  in  1839,  declared  in  his 
speech  after  dinner,  that  "  he  had  seen  the  four  successful  Shorthorns 
exhibited  on  that  day,  and  he  did  assure  the  breeder  of  them  that  he 
had  seen  his  cattle  on  the  banks  of  the  Ohio,  and  they  were  there  held, 
and  justly  so,  in  as  great  estimation  in  the  tJnited  States  of  America 
us  they  were  in  Oxford."  Wherever  they  are  fairly  tried,  their  merits 
shine  forth  in  producing  greater  returns  for  the  food  consumed  than 
any  other  breed  of  cattle  that  Avas  ever  known  in  the  world.  There 
are  a  hundred  men  fit  for  a  Prime  Minister  where  is  one  competent  to 
act  as  a  proper  judge  of  Shorthorns,  or  to  be  such  a  breeder  as  Thomas 
Sates  was,  1  will  add  : 

An  important  item  connected  with  Bates'  success  as  a  breeder  should 
not  be  omitted:  Instead  of  leaving  his  stock  to  the  exclusive  care  of 
his  herdsmen,  as  is  the  practice  of  too  many  breeders,  he  looked  care- 
fully after  them  himself — personally  saw  to  all  their  wants,  and  knew 
every  particular  relating  to  them.  He  so  loved  his  cattle  that  he 
almost  made  companions  out  of  them:  they  would  follow  him  about 
the  fields  and  yards,  and  he  would  lovingly  fondle  them,  caress  them, 
while  they  in  turn  would  rub  against  him,  lick  his  hands,  etc.  So  in- 
tractable did  they  become  in  his  presence  to  the  herdsmen  that  they 
could  scarcely  drive  them  when  Bates  was  present. 

It  is  remarked  in  passing  that  what  are  called  the  ''  Holderness 
breed  "  of  cattle  is  the  same  as  the  ''  Yorkshire,"  "  Teeswater,"  old 
'•  unimproved  Shorthorns  " — famous  milkers,  giving  in  olden  times, 
according  to  Youatt,  from  30  to  3G  (juarts  of  milk  per  cow  a  day  in 
the  early  part  of  the  Summer,  averaging  through  the  season  from  22 
to  24  quarts  per  cow.  This  was  a  cross,  it  is  said  with  the  Holsteins 
or  Dutch  from  the  Continent,  goou  milkers  but  bad  feeders  for  fatten- 
ing. There  are,  probably,  none  but  crossed  specimens  of  the  Yorkshire 
or  Holderness  breeds  in  this  country  at  present. 

HOLSTEIXS. 

Of  the  produce  of  Holstein  Cows  :  Gerritt  Smith  Miller  of  Peter- 
boro,  N.  Y.,  reports  an  average  yield  of  milk  per  cow,  per  annum,  0,597 
lbs.  "Dowager"  in  365  days  gave  ] 2,081  lbs.  of  milk;  "Crown 
Princess,'"  in  one  day  gave  74^  lbs.;  in  one  month,  2,U81  lbs.;  her 
average  per  day  for  0  months,  was  5,041  lbs.  "  Fraulein  "  gave  70  lbs. 
in  one  day.  ''  Topsey,"  (two-years  old)  before  she  Avas  two,  gave  40^ 
lbs.  one  day.  The  cows  in  milk  fed  daily,  G  quarts  of  grain  in  Spring 
and  4  ([uarts  in  Pall  and  Winter.  In  June,  July  and  August,  nothing 
but  glass  in  tlie  pasture.  Weight  when  in  good  condition,  "  Crown 
Princess,"  1,572  lbs.;  "  Azoo,"  three  years  old,  1,530  lbs.;  "  Hebe,"  two 
years  old,  1,250  ;  "Snowfiake. "  one  year  old,  1,020  lbs.;  "  Eip  \'an  Win- 
kle," tlir -e  years  old,  1,802  lbs. 

In  addition  to  tiie  foregoing,  ••  Dowager "  dropped  her  calf  on 
March  15,  1870,  and  in  the  first  month  gave  1,100  lbs.  of  milk,  and 
during  her  seventh  month  gave  1.238  lbs.;  she  was  milked  305  days 
and  gave  12,081^  lbs.  After  being  dry  six  weeks  and  having  calved  in 
June,  1871,  she  gave  in  the  year  following,  11,588  lbs.  of  milk.  She 
calved  in  1872  and  1873,  but  "was  not  dry  again  till  1874:  her  largest 
yield  fur  one  day  was  02  lbs.    At  the  Central  New  York  Fair  of  1874, 


36 

in  Utica,  "  Dowager  "  was  awarded  the  first  prize  for  milch  cow  of 
any  breed,  competing  with  a  large  class,  comprising  Ayrshires, 
thoroughbred  Shorthorns  and  crossbreds  of  a  variety  of  breeds  and 
races.  Cream  averaged  16  per  cent,  on  Holstein  milk,  and  13  per  cent, 
on  the  milk  of  crossbreds.  At  the  Peterboro  factory  the  milk  of 
''  Crown  Princess  "  was  pronounced  the  best  the  cheese-maker  had 
ever  tested.  The  milk  of  the  Holstein  is  pronounced  good  by  Mr, 
Miller,  for  the  milkman,  the  cheese  maker  and  for  the  butter  maker, 
he  having  sold  butter  in  Boston  market  a  few  cents  above  the  highest 
quotations,  a  fact  of  special  interest  when  it  is  known  that  some  Her- 
kimer dairymen  have  decried  the  quality  of  Holstein  milk. 

Mr.  Miller  milked  11  good  native  cows  kept  in  the  stable  with  his 
Holsteins,  for  two  years;  the  average  yield  per  cow  per  annum  was 
4,500  lbs.  of  milk,  the  highest  average  obtained  by  any  dairy  sending 
milk  to  the  Peterboro  factory  during  two  years.  The  three  imported 
Holsteins  averaged  per  cow  per  year,  for  three  years,  9,507  lbs.  of  milk. 
The  latter  had  two  quarts  more  grain  per  day  than  the  former  during 
the  graining  season:  Ten  dollars  per  head  could  cover  the  cost  of  ex- 
tra grain  consumed  by  Holsteins ;  all  the  cows  had  Avhat  hay  they 
would  eat ;  the  hay  was  often  weighed,  and  fed  to  animals  of  each  class, 
and  natives  weighing  1,000  to  1.100  lbs.  Eating  as  much  or  more 
than  the  Holsteins,  averaging  1,300  lbs.  and  upwards.  For  experiment 
the  food  of  my  best  native  and  best  Holstein  cow,  were  weighed,  says 
G.  S.  Miller,  for  one  week,  and  it  was  found  that  the  native  cow  con- 
sumed 25  per  cent,  more  food  for  every  pound  of  milk  produced  than 
did  the  Holstein.  Cheese  during  the  time  of  these  records  was  worth 
13  cents  a  pound  allowing  10  lbs.  of  milk  for  1  lb.  of  cheese — the 
average  yield  of  the  natives,  450  lbs.  of  cheese  at  13c.  a  lb.,  $58.50; 
The  average  yield  of  the  Holsteins  9.507/o  lbs.  at  13c.  a  lb.  1124.76, 
leaving  a  handsome  return  for  the  extra  food. 

In  1874,  Mr.  Miller's  heifers,  "  Topsey,"  "Juno,"  and  "Aster,"' 
(average  age  two  years)  gave  1 6,222  lbs.  of  milk ;  average  per  head 
5,407Ti  lbs.;  "  Crown  Princess"  calved  on  April  18,  1875,  and  pro- 
duced on  June  11,  76  lbs.  of  milk.  "  Princess  "  yields  from  12  to  15 
lbs.  of  butter  a  week. 

Col.  H.  C.  Hoffman  of  Horseheads,  N.  Y.,  says :  I  have  given  the 
Holsteins  a  thorough  and  practical  test,  since  1872.  With  six  selected 
cows  I  tried  my  Holsteins — two  years  ending  in  the  fall  1874 — an  ex- 
act record  being  kept.  The  Holsteins  gave  from  25  to  30  per  cent, 
more  than  the  others,  yielding  from  10,000  to  11,000  lbs.,  while  the 
crossbreds  gave  7,000  to  8,000  lbs  per  year.  Frequent  tests  witli  the 
cream  gauge,  demonstrated  that  the  Holsteins  ran  a  little  ahead  of  the 
average  mixed  dairies. 

John  H.  Comer  of  Goshen,  N.  Y.,  milked  from  an  imported  cow, 
"  Anna,"  weight  1,500  lbs.,  in  eight  months,  10,840  lbs.  of  milk.  The 
cow  "  Eva,"  gave  30  quarts  of  milk  a  day  as  reported  by  Judge  Ful- 
lerton. 

W.  W.  Chenery's  cow,  imported,  "Texelaar,"  gave  in  63  days,  4,018 
lbs.  14  ozs.  of  milk,  her  record  for  one  day  being  76  lbs.  5  ozs.,  (35^ 
(quarts)  an  average  for  ten  days  of  74-47  lbs.  per  day;  her  production 
that  year  Avas  set  at  15,600  lbs.,  or  7,200  quarts  of  milk — yielding,  said- 
Dr.  Hays,  22-72  per  cent,  of  cream — the  cream  of  six  days  making  17 


37 

lbs.  14  ozs.  of  butter.     Her  udder  when  full  of  milk  measuriug  GO 
inches  in  circumference. 

Cows  of  such  possibilities  should  [he  considered  by  dairymen  on 
farms  where  large  cattle  can  be  kept. 

SWISS   CATTLE. 

Messrs.  Aldrick  and  Hall  of  Worcester,  own  a  herd  of  Swiss  cattle 
imported  originally  by  H.  M.  Clark  of  Belmont,  Mass.,  and  bought  of 
Clark  by  the  present  proprietors,  that  are  attracting  much  attention 
because"  of  the  superior  quality  of  butter  made  from  tlieir  milk.  Bulls 
and  lieifers  of  this  race,  when  two  years  old,  weigh  from  1,000  lbs.  to 
1,400  lbs.  per  head.  A  record  was  kept  of  the  cows  '•'  Geneva '''  and 
"  Christina  ;'*  the  former  in  seven  successive  days  gave  196  quarts  of 
milk,  and  the  latter  175  quarts,  and  it  took  from  seven  to  eight  quarts 
of  milk  on  an  average  to  make  a  pound  of  butter.  Other  cows  in  the 
herd  have  given  larger  messes.  The  cows  are  fed  two  quarts  of  meal 
a  day  except  the  months  of  June  and  July. 

The  quality  of  butter  made  from  this  race  of  cows  is  not  second  to 
that  of  Jerseys  or  Guernseys,  as  I  had  an  opportunity  of  comparing 
them  last  June,  having  some  butter  sent  me  by  T.  Motley  of  Jamaica 
Plain,  from  his  Guernsey  herd,  and  by  D.  Aldrich,  from  his  Swiss  herd 
of  cows  kept  in  Auburn,  Mass.  At  the  Eastern  N.  Y.  Fair  last  Fall, 
this  herd  of  Swiss  cattle  was  on  exhibition  as  was  the  butter  made 
therefrom,  and  the  latter,  as  informed  by  the  Secretary,  C.  I.  Hayes, 
won  the  first  prize  over  the  Jersey  and  Guernsey  on  exhibition.  On 
the  dining  table  of  the  committees  at  this  fair,  the  Swiss  butter  bore 
off  the  pahii  as  reported,  as  being  superior  to  any  other  butter  on  the 
table  for  testing.  Such  is  a  brief  sketch  of  this  large,  hardy  race  of 
cattle,  lately  imported  from  Europe  into  this  country  for  trial  as  dairy 
stock. 

AYRSHIRES. 

The  origin  of  this  breed  is  still  a  matter  of  dispute  among  breeders. 
They  do  not  date  back  hardly  more  than  a  century,  as  claimed  by 
some.  They  were  introduced  into  dairies  for  supplying  London  with 
milk,  and  failed  when  tried  with  the  long  established  Metropolitan 
dairy  cows,  the  old  Shorthorns — Yorkshire  breed,  not  yielding  as  much 
milk  in  proportion  to  the  room  they  occupied  and  feed  consumed,  as 
did  the  Shorthorns.  Ayrshires  may  be  desirable  on  poor  laud — resem- 
bling that  where  they  were  originally  bred.  On  good  keejiing  thev 
tend  to  take  on  fat  rather  than  to  yield  milk  in  an  increased  quantity, 
say  Some  who  have  ti-ied  them. 

.TERSEYS. 

As  a  proposition,  the  sole  office  of  the  Jersey  cow  is  to  produce  the 
largest  possible  amount  of  rich  and  highly  colored  cream  from  a  given 
amount  of  food.  All  else  with  the  breeding  of  this  race  is  or  should 
be  incidental.     Beauty  of  form,  color,  etc.,  are  secondary  matters. 

CM.  Beach  experimented  carefully  with  three  Jerseys,  three  cross- 
breds  and  three  native  cows,  for  one  week — essentially  in  the  same 
condition,  and  kept  on  the  same  food — averaging  about  the  same  time 


3g 

4 

of  calving,  to  make  1  lb.  of   butter,  the  following  quantity  of  milk 
was  required  from  each  sort : 

For  1  lb.  of  Butter.  Quarts  per  Day. 

Three  Pure  Jerseys, 6^  quarts.  12^  quarts. 

Three  Cross-breds, 8^      "  16| 

Three  Natives, 11        "  23 

Thos.  Motley's  Jersey  cow  "  Flora,"  imported,  her  milk  being  kept 
apart  fifty  successive  weeks,  made  511  lbs.  2  ozs.  of  butter,  an  average 
of  10|  lbs.  per  week.  The  cow  had  ouly  ordinary  feed  Summer  and 
Winter.  A  race  that  furnishes  such  possibilities  should  not  be  lost 
sight  of  by  the  dairymen.  Think  of  a  herd  of  cows  that  would  aver- 
age 500  lbs.  per  head  a  year  I 

GUERNSEYS. 

The  Guernsey  is  larger  than  the  Jersey,  muzzle  broader,  eye  less 
prominent,  nose  a  rich  yellow  or  buff,  the  eye  banded  with  the  same 
color,  and  larger,  smoother  and  of  more  rotund  form.  They  are  famous 
butter  cows,  being  superior  to  the  Jerseys,  said  Thomas  Motley,  who 
had  imported  and  tried  both  on  the  Bussey  Farm  at  Jamaica  Plain, 
Mass. 

CROSS-BREEDING. 

No  careful  observer  needs  proof  that  nature  works  by  rules.  Hence, 
the  old  and  oft  quoted  maxim — "like  produces  like."'  But  suppose 
the  parents  possess  opposite  qualities — the  preponderance,  must  favor 
that  of  the  greatest  hereditary  tendency.  How  to  increase  tlie  one 
and  diminish  the  other  becomes  important,  if  controllable. 

Breeding  from  a  bull  and  cow  of  similar  type — the  progeny  will  be 
like,  and  of  a  higher  degree :  qualities  are  thus  perpetuated  and  inten- 
sified in  the  off'spring.  Take  a  Shorthorn  bull  and  represent  his  here- 
ditary power  by  100  :  put  this  bull  to  a  cow  of  totally  diflFerent  here- 
ditary power,  say  equal  to  60  :  the  offspring  would  be  reduced  to  100 
minus  60,  equal  to  40 :  suppose  the  offspring  to  be  a  bull,  both  sire  and 
offspring  may  appear  equally  perfect  in  form  and  general  character — 
the  hereditary  transmission  being  as  much  greater  in  the  former  sire, 
as  the  proportion  of  100  to  40;  hence,  the  former  would  be  and  is 
much  more  valuable  for  breeding  purposes  than  the  latter.  By  breed- 
ing animals  of  similar  type,  the  offspring  will  be  likely  to  possess  the 
same  charactertistics,  with  a  greater  power  of  hereditary  transmission 
of  this  character  or  these  characteristics.  On  the  other  hand,  animals 
of  opposite  characters,  mutually  weaken  each  other's  influence,  and 
the  offspring  possesses  the  power  of  a  hereditary  transmission  in  a 
reduced  degree. 

There  are  three  special  objects  the  breeder  of  dairy  stock  has  in 
view — each  of  which  requires  a  special  mode  of  procedure.  They  are 
these : 

1.  A  liberal  production  of  good  milk. 

2.  An  economical  formation  of  meat. 

3.  The  promotion  of  purity  of  blood. 

The  first  is  the  one  that  primarily  concerns  us  at  this  meeting — the 
others  more  or  less  indirectly. 


39 

The  milking  character  of  various  kinds  of  stock  takes  a  wide  range — 
even  so  among  females  of  the  same  class,  as  the  cow,  etc.  Apart  from 
the  influence  of  food,  the  quantity  of  milk  secreted  depends  upon  the 
supply  of  blood  which  the  mammary  glands  receive  as  well  as  upon 
their  activity,  while  its  quality  is  mainly  dependent  upon  the  animal's 
internal  organization. 

In  breeding  for  milk,  reference  must  be  had  to  the  milking  family 
ol  the  bull  as  well  as  of  the  cow.  The  quality  of  milk  usually  bears 
an  important  relation  to  the  quantity  produced — the  richness  depend- 
ing upon  the  amount  of  cream.  For  the  production  of  rich  milk  two 
qualifications  are  necessary  in  the  animal:  First,  to  separate  and  pre- 
pare tbe  fatty  and  nutritious  elements  of  food,  so  as  to  introduce  them 
into  the  circulation  with  as  little  loss  as  possible  ;  second,  to  separate 
a  large  proportion  of  these  elements  in  the  form  of  rich  milk.  Thus 
is  milk  rich  or  poor,  according  to  the  breed  and  feed  of  the  animal. 
Animals  that  give  rich  milk  are  well  adapted  to  fatten. 

The  formation  of  milk  depends  upon  the  activity  of  the  mammary 
glands,  excited  by  breeding.  These  glands  when  healthy  and  active 
take  off  freely  from  the  blood  what  otherwise  would  be  deposited  as 
fat ;  if  torpid,  then  fat  is  made  rather  than  milk.  It  is  the  good  milch 
cow  that  makes  milk  of  her  feed  rather  than  fat.  These  qualities  are 
subject  to  hereditary  transmission  and  influences ;  hence  the  import- 
ance of  care  and  skill  in  breeding.  A  liberal  supply  of  milk  and  an 
aptitude  to  fatten  are  sometimes  found  in  the  same  animal — ^just  what 
the  dairyman  desires. 

The  accumulation  of  hereditary  tendencies,  necessary  to  the  making 
of  good  milch  cows  are  measurably  under  the  control  of  the  breeder. 
Valuable  as  a  good  pedigree  may  be  when  the  conditions  are  health  and 
vigor,  it  is  more  than  questionable  when  these  are  wanting,  for  pre- 
potency will  be  wanting  also.  Breed  from  none  but  animals  of  an 
ascertained  and  fixed  type,  carefully  bred  in  a  line  for  years,  regard 
having  been  had  to  the  development  of  characteristic,  hereditary 
points — such  as  are  wanted.  So  that  you  have  no  "  misfits" — but  real 
thoroughbreds,  in  the  true  significancy  of  that  much  abused  word. 
Then  it  is,  that  "  like  produces  like,  in  the  dairymen's  herd  as  in 
Bates's  herd.  The  Arabs  have  a  proverb — "  The  value  of  a  horse  is 
in  his  breeding."     So  I  say  of  the  cow,  her  value  is  in  her  breeding. 

Having  referred  to  the  Arabs,  I  will  quote  again : 

First,  (and  best,)  Both  sire  and  dam  of  noble  race. 

Second,  (faulty,)  Sire  noble,  dam  not. 

Third,  (slightly  inferior  again,)  Sire  ordinary,  dam  noble. 

Disraeli,  in  his  eloquent -biography  of  Lord  Geo.  Bentinck,  remarks 
in  his  chapter  on  the  Jews,  '•'  that  it  is  vain  for  man  to  attempt  to 
baffle  the  inexorable  law  of  nature,  which  has  decreed  that  a  superior 
race  shall  never  be  destroyed,  nor  absorbed  by  an  inferior."  This  ap- 
plies to  races  of  cattle  as  well  as  races  of  men. 

To  those  about  to  begin  breeding  crosses,  I  would  say,  whatever  be 
the  race  or  breed  to  whicli  the  cow  may  belong  as  selected,  observation 
and  experience  incline  me  to  recommend  Shortiiorn  bulls  as  preferable 
to  any  other  breed  or  race  unless  it  lie  the  Holstein. 

Says  a  writer  in  the  English  Journal  of  Agriculture — '•'  At  our  an- 
nual sale  of  fat  stock,  every  Christmas,  I  find,  if  I  have  a  crossed  ox, 


40 

it  invariably  makes  £2  or  £3  sterling  more  than  pure  bred  ones  ;  and 
the  reason  is  that  the  bntchers  tell  me  they  weigh  better,  are  more 
fleshy,  and  give  their  customers  greater  satisfaction  from  the  fact  of 
the  fat  and  lean  being  better  mixed,  I  have  had  cross-bred  steers  three 
years  old  returning  from  £30  to  £40  each,  their  dams  being  small  Ayr- 
shire cows,  and  the  sire  a  fine  Hereford  bull.  He  would  not  go  beyond 
a  first  cross  between  distinct  breeds — all  half-blood  heifers  being 
spayed.  I  am  in  favor  of  cross-breeding  when  a  farmer  is  unable  to 
purchase  and  keep  a  high  bred  stock.  The  breeder  by  pj-oper 
selections,  and  by  joining  like  excellencies  and  properties  in  sire  aud 
dam,  cannot  fail  to  improve  the  quality  of»his  stock.  Therefore,  to 
improve  stock,  good  blood  should  be  secured  on  both  sides.  A  young 
farmer,  or  others,  beginning  de  novo,  in  selecting  animals  from  which 
to  breed,  should  have  reference  to  the  kind  of  land  he  is  to  stock,  in 
determining  the  breed  he  is  to  select,  always  remembering  that  his 
ideal,  or  standard  of  perfection  can  never  be  fully  realized.  He  must 
decide  what  are  desirable  qualities  for  him,  and  cross  with  the  view  of 
establishing  them.  His  proceeding  must  be  of  the  "  give  and  take 
kind,"  the  highest  excellence  being  his  aim  ever  and  always.  Excel- 
sior, higher — more  elevated,  must  be  his  motto. 

CROSS-BRED   SHORTHORX   COWS. 

Having  been  called  to  serve  as  Chairman  on  a  Committee  on  milcli 
cows,  at  an  Agricultural  Fair  in  Southboro,  Mass.,  last  October,  some 
very  fine  cross-bred  Shortliorn  cows  Avere  exhibited  by  Joseph  Story 
Pay,  residiug  on  a  fine  milk  farm,  formerly  famous  for  the  Peters 
Ayrshire  herd'  These  cross-breds  were  raised  in  Barre,  Mass.,  a  well- 
known  dairy  town,  widely  celebrated  for  its  fine  milch  cows.  Mr.  Fay 
stated  to  the  Committee,  and  pointed  out  the  cows,  that  gave  from 
350  to  500,  8i  quart  cans  of  milk  per  year ;  he  had  cows  also  that 
averaged  over  two  cans  a  day  from  June  1st  until  October  1st.  Seven 
of  these  superior  milkers  were  of  the  Bates  herd  in  Barre ;  he  has  one 
cow  that  gives  one  and  a  half  can  a  day  that  dropped  her  calf  fourteen 
months  ago.  He  has  cows  that  give  him  4,000  quarts  per  cow  per  an- 
num, and  six  cows  that  gave  an  average  of  fifty  pounds  of  milk  a  day 
per  cow  for  sixty  days  in  succession. 

1  know  another  dairyman  in  the  jieighborhood  of  Barre,  in  Worces- 
ter County,  Mass.,  who  has  bred  his  cows,  grade  Shorthorns,  for  half  a 
century,  with  special  reference  to  producing  milk — using  a  grade  bull, 
fearing  to  use  a  thoroughbred  lest  he  should  impair  the  milk  yield  of 
his  cows,  he  remarking  that  he  knows  cases  where  this  has  been  done. 
He  has  a  fine  lot  of  cows  as  I  can  testify,  as  I  have  seen  them. 

I  know  another  dairyman,  B.  F.  Hamilton,  New  Braintree,  Worces- 
ter County,  Mass.,  who  keeps  thirty  cows,  high  grade  Shorthorus  of 
superior  quality.  He  raises  heifers  to  replenish  his  herd,  as  he  claims, 
like  the  former  gentleman  referred  to,  that  every  dairyman  should  do, 
and  said  in  reply  to  the  following  question  I  put  to  him,  to-wit : 
"  What  would  you  give  Avhen  you  raise  a  heifer  to  have  her  warranted 
in  coming  in  to  be  a  good  milker  ?''  "  Nothing,"  was  the  reply,  for  I 
am  as  sure  of  that  as  she  is  to  breed. 

I  might  multiply  facts  of  the  kind  related,  from  my  observation,  in 
the   States  of  Vermont,   Connecticut   and   Central   New  York.     But 


41 

these  will  suffice  to  confirm  the  practicability  of  the  views  I  have  pre- 
sented, relative  to  cross-breeding  under  the  conditions  I  specified. 

I  therefore,  Mr.  President,  and  friends,  thanking  you  for  your  atten- 
tion, leave  the  subject  1  have  discussed,  to  wit :  "  Dairy  Stock  and 
HoAV  to  Breed  it,''  with  you  for  your  consideration  and  discussion.  If 
my  contribution  shall  serve  to  awaken  a  deeper  interest  on  this  im- 
portant subject  among  dairymen,  and  shall  serve  to  aid  in  the  improve- 
ment of  dairy  stock,  then  shall  I  feel  satisfied,  and  it  will  not  prove  in 
vain  that  I  have  occupied  a  part  of  your  valuable  time. 

A  short  discussion  followed  the  reading  of  Mr.  Wetherell's  paper. 

Mr.  Hardin,  of  Kentucky,  thought  short  horns  did  not  make  good 
cows  in  his  State. 

Mr.  Lewis  explained,  that  in  Kentucky  the  milking  qualities  of 
Shorthorns  had  been  bred  out  for  the  sake  of  producing  beef  and  for 
fancy  stock.  Cows  are  made  to  go  dry  m  quick  as  possible  after  com- 
ing in,  and  the  young  heifers  are  alloAved  to  become  fat  before  breeding, 
which  inclines  them  to  the  production  of  fat  instead  of  milk.  They 
are  not  bred  till  they  are  three  years  old,  when  the  tendency  to  fatten 
has  become  well  established.  They  could  not  afford  to  keep  cows  in 
milk  when  a  calf  a  few  davs  old  would,  as  had  been  the  case,  sell  for 
$27,000. 

Mr.  Lewis  advocated  the  Princess  strain  of  short  horn  blood  as* pro- 
ducing the  most  profitable  animals  for  the  dairy. 

Prof.  Wetherell  favored  the  Duchess,  and  Mr.  Ellison  the  Holderness. 

PEOCEEDINGS  OF  THE  SECOND  DAY. 

Wednesday  morning,  the  session  opened  at  9  o'clock,  Ex-Go  v.  Seymour 
presiding.  The  attendance  was  large  and  a  goodly  number  of  ladies 
were  present. 

A  letter  of  inquiry  was  presented  by  Eastburn  Reeder,  from  T.  M. 
Harvey,  of  West  Grove,  Pa.,  relating  to  the  cause  of  color  in  butter, 
and  was  read  to  the  Convention. 

Mr,  Reeder  thought  the  color  of  butter  was  produced  by  light  and 
heat.  Cream  raised  in  a  cold  dark  room  was  paler  than  when  raised 
in  a  light  and  warm  one.  Feed  also  affects  the  color  of  butter.  The 
same  cow  fed  with  different  feeds  will  produce  butter  varying  in  color. 

Upon  the  close  of  this  discussion,  President  Seymour  remarked,  in 
substance,  as  follows : 

Ihave  been  much  impressed  in  my  intercourse  with  farmers  Avith 
their  skill,  and  also  with  their  negligence  of  some  common  things.  I 
have  frequently  asked  simple  questions  which  they  were  unable  to 
answer.  For  the  past  fifteen  years  the  farmer  has  had  to  contend  Avith 
insects  which  have  destroyed  his  crops.  We  have  in  the  insect  world 
hosts  of  enemies  and  hosts  of  friends.  Without  them  we  Avould  be  in 
danger  of  starvation.  The  farmer  should  find  out  which  are  his  ene- 
mies and  which  his  friends.  If  a  farmer  was  to  suffer  one-tenth  of  the 
injury  from  one  of  his  neighbors  that  he  does  from  the  wire  worm,  he 
Avould  seek  a  lawyer  and  get  redress.  If  the  farmer  would  go  to  law 
with  the  insects  as  he  does  Avith  his  neighbor,  we  w(»uld  have  a  more 
peaceful  community.     No  farmer  has  been  able  to  tell  me  anything 


42 

about  the  wire  worm,  the  shape  it  assumeg,  and  the  laws  which  govern 
it.  I  was  speaking,  Avhile  at  Waslnngton,  with  tlie  State  entomologist, 
and  asked  him  to  make  out  a  list  of  insects  for  me.  He  told  me  that 
very  little  was  known  in  regard  to  it.  There  is  something  to  indicate 
that  farmers  in  the  East  have  more  to  fear  from  insects  than  the  far- 
mers of  the  West.  In  inquiring  in  regard  to  the  ^Tass-hopper,  there 
is  a  hope  of  their  being  destroyed  by  a  parasite.  The  same  may  be 
said  in  regard  to  the  currant  worm  and  cabbage  worm.  The  lady-bugs 
lay  their  eggs  on  the  cotton  plant ;  they  carry  the  eggs  of  the  cotton 
louse,  and  are  therefore  destructive  to  the  cotton  plant.  We  should 
induce  those  who  are  engaged  in  making  school  l«ooks,  to  give  this  sub- 
ject a  proper  place  in  them,  so  that  our  children  may  know  something 
ill  regard  to  it,  and  be  led  to  observe  at  least.  The  tendency  of  our 
people  is  to  the  country  for  the  city.  Tiie  reason  is  that  men  don't 
know  enough  to  live  in  the  country.  A  man  has  got  to  know  more 
to  live  in  the  country  than  in'  the  city.  A  man  should  be  content  to 
live  in  God's  own  museum  of  nature,  and  study  its  wonders.  I  am 
glad  to  say  that  our  State  has  continued  its  appropriations  to  raicro- 
scopists,  and  that  these  things  will  be  properly  brought  out  I.  firmly 
believe  that  a  man  who  will  carry  a  microscope  which  costs  only  one 
dollar  in  his  vest  pocket  during  a  life  time,  will  get  a  better  education 
than  Jie  can  get  at  any  institution,  and  be  more  happy  when  the  wear- 
ing of  life  comes  on.  His  capacity  for  enjoyment  will  be  greater  than 
if  he  had  not  done  so. 

During  his  remarks  Mr.  Seymour  made  a  plea  for  a  higher  and  bet- 
ter education. 


DAJEY  FAEMING,  BY  EASTBUEN  EEEDEE. 

INTKODUCTORY. 

The  subject  of  Dairy  Farming  may  be  very  properly  divided  into 
four  different  heads : 

First,  Dairy  Farms. 

Second,  Dairy  Stock. 

Third,  Dairy  Buildings. 

Fourth,  Dairy  Products. 

I  have  been  invited  here  to  open  the  discussion  on  butter  ma'king, 
and  butter  is  the  most  important  of  our  dairy  products.  If  I  correctly 
understand  the  language  of  the  invitation,  dairymen  from  ail  parts  of 
the  country  are  invited  here  "to  explain  their  practices."  These 
meetings  are  designed  to  be  experience  meetings,  that  each  one  of  us 
may  learn  from  the  success  and  the  failure  of  others.  I  claim  that 
the  errors  we  make,  if  properly  set  forth,  do  very  nearly  as  much  good 
as  the  discoveries  we  may  make.  Our  failures  may  serve  as  land  marks 
for  others  to  avoid.  If,  therefore,  I  shall  advocate  any  false  theories 
or  maintain  any  erroneous  practices,  and  others  shall  dispel  my  false 
theories,  or  prove  the  error  of  my  practice,  I  shall  still  be  entitled  to  a 
small  share  in  the  general  credit.  The  honest  enquirer  after  the  truth, 
shares  in  the  general  good  its  discovery  bestows,  whether  he  Jirst  finds 
it  or  not. 


43 


HISTORY. 


It  is  perhaps  impossible  to  ascertain  when  the  art  of  butter  making 
was  first  discovered,  or  when  it  was  first  used  as  an  article  of  food. 

The  ancient  Patriarch,  Abraham,  who  lived  in  the  land  of  Canaan, 
nearly  1,900  years  before  the  birth  of  Chirist,  when  he  was  visited  by 
the  three  angels,  who  came  to  inform  him  that  his  wife  Sarah  should 
bear  him  a  son  in  his  old  age,  was  so  overjoyed  at  the  news,  that  he 
jn'ovided  hutUr  as  one  of  the  articles  of  the  entertainment. 

"  And  he  took  butter  and  milk,  and  the  calf  which  he  had  dressed, 
and  set  it  before  them  ;  and  he  stood  bv  under  a  tree  ;  aud  they  did 
eat."     (Genesis  18  :  8.) 

The  great  and  wise  King,  Solomon,  who  began  his  reign  1,014  years 
before  Christ,  must  have  been  familiar  with  the  process  of  churning, 
for  it  is  recorded  as  one  of  his  wise  sayings — "  Surely,  the  churning  of 
milk  bringeth  forth  butter,  and  the  wringing  of  the  nose  bringeth 
forth  blood  ;  so  the  forcing  of  Avrath  bringeth  forth  strife.'"  (Proverbs 
30:  33.) 

Biblical  scliolars  say  that  in  the  Hebrew  language  the  same  word  is 
used  for  churning  and  wringing.  At  the  present  day  the  inhabitants 
of  Palestine  wring  their  milk  in  goat  skins  to  produce  butter,  and  as 
the  practices  of  the  people  of  that  country  have  undergone  no  change 
for  centuries,  it  is  highly  probable  that  in  Solomon's  time  butter  was 
made  in  the  manner  mentioned,  by  churning  or  wringing  the  milk. 

Evans  mentions  in  his  manual  that  ''  There  is  a  tradition  among 
the  Arabs,  that  butter  was  first  made  by  the  agitation  of  milk  carried 
in  skins  upon  the  backs  of  their  camels  during  their  long  journeys 
across  the  deserts  of  the  East." 

Herodotus,  the  father  of  historv,  born  -484  years  B.  C,  says  of  but- 
ter, that  the  Thracians  ate  it,  while  the  Grreeks  regarded  it  as  a  wonder- 
ful kind  of  food. 

The  early  Eomans  and  most  European  nations  used  butter  as  an 
ointment,  or  as  medicine, — never  as  food. 

Di-os-cor-i-des  describes  the  process  of  making  butter,  by  agitating 
the  milk  of  only  the  fattest  animals. 

Galen  was  the  first  to  treat  of  the  comparative  qualities  of  butter 
made  from  the  milk  of  different  animals,  and  he  ranked  cows  milk 
first,  or  best ;  but  none  of  these  early  writers  make  any  mention  of  its 
being  used  except  as  an  ointment  in  the  bath,  or  as  a  medicine,  by  any 
other  people  than  the  Thracians,  and  the  ancient  Germans. 

It  is  related  by  Plutarch,  Avho  wrote  in  the  first  centur}',  that  a  cer- 
tain Spartan  lady  visiting  Bere-ni-ce,  the  Avife  of  De-jot-a-rus,  the  for- 
mer smelt  so  strongly  of  sweet  ointment  and  the  latter  of  butter,  that 
neither  could  endure" the  presence  of  the  other. 

MY    PRACTICE. 

Before  saying  anything  of  the  theories  and  practices  of  others,  in 
butter  making,  1  will  give  a  brief  statement  of  my  own  ;  and  in  so 
doing  I  have  no  reference  to  butter  factories,  or  to  very  large  dairies, 
the  factory  system  of  butter-making  being  the  subject  for  considera- 
tion at  a  future  sitting  of  this  convention.     I  sliall  only  claim  that 


44 

my  practice  is  best  suited  to  ordinary  farm  dairies  of  ten  to  twenty 
cows  each,  and  where  perhaps  nine-tenths  of  all  the  butter  of  the 
country  is  made. 

1st.  I  would  have  the  milk  strained  and  set  away  for  creaming  as 
quickly  as  possible  after  being  drawn  from  the  cows. 

2d.  I  would  set  it  in  tin  pans  three  to  four  inches  deep,  in  a  room 
where  a  temperature  ranging  from  55°  to  60*^  can  at  all  times  be  main- 
tained. 

3d.  I  would  have  entirs  cleanliness  in  all  the  operations  of  milking 
and  handling  the  milk;  and  2i,  ^mre  atmosphere  in  which  the  milk  and 
cream  is  exposed. 

4th.  I  w^ould  skim  off  the  cream  after  standing  48  hours,  not 
earlier — not  later. 

5th.  I  would  churn  the  cream,  in  Summer,  at  a  temperature  of  54 
to  56  degrees ;  in  Winter,  at  a  temperature  of  GO  to  63  degrees. 

6th.  I  would  salt  according  to  taste  of  customers,  at  the  rate  of 
one-half  ounce  to  one  ounce  per  pound,  and  work  the  butter  thoroughly. 

7th.  I  would  sell  in  the  nearest  and  best  market  as  fast  as  manu- 
factured. 

STEAINING    AND   SETTING.  ' 

It  is  one  of  the  principles  governing  the  separation  of  the  cream 
from  the  milk,  that  when  milk  is  carried  a  considerable  distance,  and 
is  much  agitated,  and  partly  cooled  before  straining  into  the  pans  for 
creaming, — it  never  throws  up  so  much,  or  so  rich  cream,  as  when  the 
same  miik  is  put  into  the  pans  directly  after  it  is  milked.  It  is  for  this 
reason  I  would  have  the  milk  set  away  as  quickly  as  possible  after  it 
comes  from  the  cow. 

I  have  frequently  noticed  in  my  own  dairy  that  on  the  milk  from 
cows  first  milked,  standing  while  the  others  were  finished/  that  quite  a 
perceptible  cream  had  risen.  It  should  therefore  be  the  business  of 
one  person  in  a  large  dairy  to  strain  and  set  away  the  milk  as  fast  as 
ready.  Should  any  dirt  by  accident  get  into  the  milk  while  milking, 
the  longer  it  stands  before  straining,  the  more  injury  will  it  do.  While 
the  process  of  separation  of  the  cream  from  the  milk  is  naturally  a 
slow  one,  and  cannot  be  successfully  hurried,  or  retarded,  by  any  arti- 
ficial means  with  which  I  am  acquainted,  nevertheless  the  act  of  separa- 
ting commmences  at  once.  New  milk  carried  long  distances  and  much 
agitated  in  the  journey,  will  be  churned  and  butter  produced,  but  the 
percentage  of  butter  obtained  will  be  less.  Hence  the  importance  of 
having  the  Dairy  House  located  convenient  to  the  milking  yard,  or 
stables,  and  the  disadvantage  of  carrying  milk  several  miles  to  butter 
factories. 

New  milk  when  it  first  comes  from  the  cow  is  at  a  temperature  of 
about  98  degrees  or  blood  heat,  and  if  there  is  any  advantage  in  sub- 
jecting it  to  a  falling  temperature  for  cream  rising,  this  practice  most 
easily  and  best  secures  it. 

MILK. 

The  composition  of  cows'  milk  of  average  good  quality,  according 
to  Dr.  Voelcker  (Fel.ker)  is  stated  to  be,  in"  100  parts  :  water,  87.40  ; 
butter,  3.43;  ca-seiue,  3.12;  sugar,  5.12,  and  mineral  matter,  .93. 
Total,  100  parts. 


45 

The  composition  of  cream  according  to  the  same  anthority  is  stated 
to  be,  water,  56.50;  butter,  31.57;  ca-seine  and  sugar,  8.44;  mineral 
matter,  3.49.     Total,  100  parts. 

The  specific  gravity  of  cows'  milk  is  stated  also  to  range  from  1,034 
to  1,033,  averaging  1,030,  water  being  the  standard  at  1,000. 

The  specific  gravity  of  cream  is  stated  to  range  from  1,013  to  1,019, 
the  milk  having  been  skimmed  after  standing  15  and  48  hours. 

Dr.  Sturtevant  found  the  specific  gravity  of  cream  to  be  983,  or 
lighter  than  water,  while  other  authorities  range  it  from  1,005  to  1,034. 

Last  winter  I  tried  the  experiment  of  weighing,  respectively,  one 
quart  each  of  water,  milk,  and  cream. 

1  quart  of  water,  temp.  60',  weighed  33t|^  oz.,  representing  1,000. 

1  "      milk,       "        "  "       34l     "  "  1,030. 

1  "       cream,     «        "  "       33       •'•'  "  985. 

The  quart  of  cream  being  half  an  ounce  lighter  than  the  water  and 
14-  oz.  lighter  than  the  milk,  while  the  quart  of  milk  was  1  oz.  heavier 
than  the  water.  Thus  in  my  rude  way  I  found  the  specific  gravity  of 
milk  to  be  1,030,  and  of  cream  to  be  985. 

I  present  these  tables  to  show  the  small  difference  between  the  weights 
of  milk  and  cream,  and  that  the  conditions  for  cream  rising  should  be 
rendered  as  favorable  as  possible. 

DEEP   AND    SHALLOW   SETTING. 

What  is  the  best  method  of  separating  the  cream  from  the  milk  ? 
Dairymen  give  widely  difierent  answers  to  this  question.  The  depth 
at  which  milk  is  set,  ranges  all  the  way  from  2  to  34  inches ;  and  the 
temperature  of  the  water  or  air  in  which  it  staVds,  ranges  from  34  to 
70  degrees ;  and  some  advocate  heating  milk  to  the  scalding  point  or 
150",  With  such  extreme  and  widely  different  opinions  and  practices, 
the  inexperienced  dairyman  of  to-day  is  at  a  loss  what  to  do.  The 
more  he  reads  the  more  undecided  he  becomes.  The  only  manner  by 
which  I  can  hope  to  ascertain  the  true  way  is  to  try  tlie  different  meth- 
ods and  to  liold  fast  to  that  which  is  proven  to  be  the  best.  As  I  have 
just  stated,  new  milk  when  it  comes  from  the  cow,  is  at  a  temperature 
of  about  98°.  Should  it  be  cooled ;  if  so,  how  ;  rapidly  or  sioWly  ? 
Should  it  be  heated  ;  if  so,  to  what  degree  ?  The  first  trial  I  ever  made 
in  deep  setting  of  milk  was  in  August  1st,  1874.  I  will  briefly  state 
the  conditions  and  the  result  of  this  trial. 

100  pounds  of  milk  were  set  in  3  cans,  16  inches  deep,  and  100 
pounds  of  milk  were  set  in  12  pans  4  inches  deep.  Temperature  of 
the  air  in  the  dairy  room,  from  58  to  60  .  The  milk  all  skimmed  after 
standing  48  hours.  From  the  deep  cans  9|  pounds  of  cream  were 
taken  off,  and  from  the  shallow  pans,  12  pounds  of  cream.  The  per- 
centage of  butter  from  the  deep  cans  Avas  d-(  per  cent;  percentage  of 
butter  from  the  shallow  pans,  44-  per  cent.  In  this  trial  deeps  cans  re- 
quired 30  pounds  of  milk  to  make  1  pound  of  butter,  and  the  shallow 
pans,  33  pounds  of  milk  to  make  one  pound  of  butter.  As  not  quite 
ten  pounds  of  cream  were  taken  from  the  three  deep  cans,  or  a  little 
over  3  pounds  from  each  can,  they  were  not  skimmed  much  over  an 
inch  and  a  half  deep.  It  has  been  objected  to  this  trial.  Ist.  That  the 
pans  were  not  skimmed  deep  enough.     3d.  That  the  temperature  at 


46 

which  they  stood  was  too  high.  3d.  That  they  did  not  stand  long 
enough  before  skimming. 

In  May,  1875,  I  made  a  second  trial  in  deep  and  shallow  setting,  this 
tune  setting  as  before.  The  temperature  of  air  in  the  room  where  the 
deep  cans  were  set  was  49° ;  the  temperature  of  air  in  the  room  where 
shallow  pans  were  set  was  60°.  The  milk  was  all  skimmed  after  stand- 
ing 48  hours.  In  order,  this  time  if  possible,  to  get  all  the  cream  from 
the  deep  cans,  three  inches  of  surface  were  taken  from  each  can  weigh- 
ing 6  pounds,  and  making  from  the  deep  cans  18  pounds  of  cream,  and 
from  the  shallow  pans  13  pounds  of  cream  were  obtained.  The  18 
pounds  of  cream  from  deep  cans  made  3  pounds  8  ounces  of  butter ; 
the  13  pounds  of  cream  from  shallow  pans  made  5  pounds  2  ounces  of 
butter.  The  percentage  of  cream  from  deep  cans  was  18,  and  of  but- 
ter 3w ;  the  percentage  of  cream  from  shallow  pans  was  14,  and  of  but- 
ter 5^.  The  deep  cans  required  28  pounds  of  milk  to  make  1  pound 
of  butter,  and  the  shallow  pans  required  20  pounds  of  milk  to  make  1 
pound  of  butter.  By  comparing  the  result  of  this  second  trial  of  deep 
setting  with  the  first,  we  find  by  skimming  1^  inches  deep,  10  per  cent, 
cream  and  3:^  per  cent,  butter  was  obtained,  and  by  skimming  3  inches 
deep,  18  per  cent,  cream  and  3}  per  cent,  butter  was  obtained.  The 
temperature  of  the  first  trial  being  00° ;  of  the  second  trial  49°.  From 
the  results  of  these  trials  we  conclude  that  the  gain  in  butter  of  one- 
quarter  of  one  per  cent,  was  due  either  to  skimming  3  inches  deep  in- 
stead of  1^  inches,  or  to  the  lower  temperature  of  49°  insted,d  of  60°, 
or  both  causes. 

In  October  and  November,  1875,  I  commenced  a  series  of  trial  in 
order,  if  possible,  to  get  at  the  bottom  of  this  question,  or,  at  least,  to 
settle  it  to  my  own  satisfaction.  I  nex1:  tried  what  is  called  the 
Swedish  system  of  butter-making,  setting  as  before. 

The  deep  cans  were  set  in  a  pool  of  ice  water ;  temperature  34"  to 
38° ;  skimmed  after  standing  48  hours,  taking  olf  4  inches  of  surface 
as  cream  from  each  can,  making  25  pounds,  or  25  per  cent,  of  cream. 
The  churning  was  done  when  the  cream  had  slightly  soured,  making  5 
pounds  12  ounces  of  butter,  or  3f  per  cent,  of  butter,  and  requiring 
17.4  pounds  of  milk  to  make  a  pound  of  butter.  The  skimmed  milk 
was  reset  in  pans  3  inches  deep,  and  placed  in  a  room  where  the  tem- 
perature was  58°.  After  standing  48  hours  longer  it  was  again 
skimmed,  yielding  4  pounds  more  cream,  sufiicient  to  make  another 
pound  of  butter. 

I  next  tried  setting  one  hundred  pounds  of  milk  sixteen  inches  deep 
in  three  cans,  in  a  pool  of  water  (without  ice)  at  a  temperature  of  49°, 
skimmed  after  standing  four  days,  or  ninety-six  hours,  taking  off  a 
little  over  four  inches  of  surface  as  cream,  making  27  pounds,  or  27 
per  cent,  cream,  and  6  pounds,  12  ounces  of  butter,  or  6f  per  cent, 
butter.  Now  was  the  increased  per  centage  of  butter  from  3^  to  3^ 
per  cent,  in  the  first,  second,  third  and  fourth  trials  of  deep  setting- 
due  to  skimming  deeper,  standing  longer,  or  difference  in  temperature? 
I  think  to  none  of  these  causes,  as  the  following  trials  in  shallow  set- 
ting will  show. 

SHALLOW  SETTING. 

At  the  same  time  of  making  the  last  trials  of  deep  setting,  I  set  one 
hundred  pounds  of  milk  in  fifteen  pans,  three  inches  deep,  (not  in 


47 

water)  but  upon  a  table  in  a  room  without  fire,  wliere  the  tempera- 
ture was  50.  Sour  milk  was  added  to  each  pan  to  facilitate  the  sour- 
ing, but  the  milk  was  not  ready  to  skim  after  standing  forty-eight 
hours,  and  was  taken  to  a  room  where  thei-e  was  a  fire,  and  the  tem- 
perature G0%  and  after  standing  twelve  hours  longer  was  skimmed, 
yielding  17  pounds  of  cream,  making  6  pounds  10  ounces  of  butter;  or 
a  loss  of  2  ounces  for  the  shallow  pans  when  compared  with  the  last 
trial  of  deep  setting,  when  the  milk  stood  96  hours  at  49\  before 
skimming,  but  a  gain  of  14  ounces  over  the  third  trial,  or  the  Swedish 
system,  when  the  milk  stood  in  ice  water  48  hours,  at  a  temperature  of 
34"  to  38.  In  December  last  I  repeated  this  exj^eriment,  setting  200 
pounds  of  milk  in  pans  three  inclies  deep  in  a  room  with  fire,  where 
the  temperature  ranged  from  50  to  00',  skimming  after  standing  48 
hours,  and  obtaining  35  pounds  of  cream,  churning  14  pounds  of  but- 
ter, being  17^  per  cent,  of  cream  and  7  per  cent,  butter,  the  highest 
percentages  of  pure  cream  and  butter  I  have  ever  obtained.  The  in- 
creased percentage  of  butter  from  4t^-  to  5^  per  cent,  in  the  first  and 
second  trials  of  shallow  setting,  to  Oij-  and  7  per  cent,  in  the  third  and 
fourth  trials  of  shallow  setting,  where  the  temperature  was  all  very 
nearly  the  same,  shows  that  it  was  due  to  the  increased  richness  of  the 
milk  (the  cows  being  nearly  dry)  more  than  to  the  other  causes  named, 
as  it  corresponds  so  well  with  the  gains  on  percentage  obtained  from 
deep  setting  of  3f  and  S^V  per  cent,  in  the  first  and  second  trials,  and 
5f  to  Of  per  cent,  in  the  third  and  fourth  trials  of  deep  setting. 

What  then  is  the  proper  depth  and  temperature  for  setting  milk  in 
order  to  get  the  best  results  in  butter  ?     I  give  it  unhesitatingly  as  my 
opinion,  that  a  depth  of  three  or  four  inches  and  a  temperature  of  55' 
to  60'  is  the  best.     Cream  rises  best  in  a  temperate  atmosphere,  neither 
too  hot  nor  too  cold.     If  it  takes  48  hours  for  all  the  cream  to  rise 
when  milk  is  set  four  inches  deep,  at  a  temperature  of  60'^,  does  it  not 
follow  that,  if  milk  be  set  at  a  greater  depth,  or  a  lower  temperature, 
there  will  be  a  loss,  either  in  quantity,  or  the  quality  will  be  injured — 
a  loss  in  quantity  if  skimmed  at  48  hours  ;  or  an  injury  to  the  quality 
if  sutfered  to  stand  a  much  longer  time.     I  learned,  years  ago,  that 
milk  set  and  kept  in  a  cold  room,  where  the  temperature  was  40  ,  will 
remain  sweet  for  nearly  a  week,  while  the   cream   will  become  bitter, 
before  it  is  fit  to  skim,  und  not  make  good  butter.     The  cause  of  this 
bitterness  of  cream  in  winter,  or  when  the  temperature  is  low,  vinous 
fermentation  is  prevented,  and  the  slow  decay  of  the  ca-seine  causes 
putridity;  and  hence  the  bitter  taste  of  butter  made  from  cream  of 
this  kind.     I  have  also  learned  that  milk  set  and  kept  in  a  room  where 
the  temperature  is  70  to  75'  during  the  summer,  will  become  sour  and 
thick  in  from  12  to  24  hours,  or  before  the  cream  has  had  time  to  rise. 
Milk  turns  sour  in  hot  weather,  or  at  high  temperatures,  sooner  than 
cold  weather,  or  low  temperatures,  because  the  heat  greatly  accelerates 
the  process  of  fermentation,  during  which  lactic  acid  is  formed  and 
the  milk  turns  sour.     I  therefore  conclude  that  if  40   is  too  cold  and 
70  too  warm,  a  medium  is  best^     Milk  should  not  stand  much  longer 
than  48  hours  before  skimming :  if  it  does,  the  decay  of  the  caseine 
causes  bitterness;  if  the  temperature  be  much  above  60,  acidity  will 
take  place  too  soon,  and  the  cream  will  not  all  get  to  the  surface.     My 
objections  to  deep  setting,  and  low  temperature,  are  that  the  cream 


48 

will  not  rise  soon  enough.  It  is  claimed  by  the  advocates  of  deep  set- 
ting at  low  temperatures,  that  the  cream  rises  very  rapidly,  that  it  will 
rise  in  a  few  hours.  I  have  never  found  that  perfect  separation  of 
the  cream  from  the  milk  when  trying  deep  setting  at  a  low  tempera- 
ture, as  I  have  when  the  milk  is  set  shallow  at  a  higher  temperature. 

Tlie  general  effect  of  heat  is  to  expand  all  bodies.  If  heat  expands 
cream  more  than  milk,  making  it  relatively  lighter  and  increasing  the 
difference  in  specific  gravity,  then  there  would  be  an  advantage  in  heat- 
ing milk  to  help  the  cream  to  rise.  On  the  other  hand,  if  the  abstrac- 
tion of  heat  contracts  the  cream  less  than  the  milk,  rendering  it  rela- 
tively lighter,  then  there  would  seem  to  be  an  advantage  m  cooling  the 
milk  to  enable  the  cream  to  rise.  Milk  set  soon  after  it  is  drawn,  say 
at  a  temperature  of  96  to  98°,  will  be  cooled  down  to  the  standard  of 
the  room  (60°)  in  five  hours  time.  But  if  the  same  milk  be  set  in 
water  it  will  be  cooled  in  a  much  shorter  time,  or  in  about  an  hour.  If 
milk  be  heated  to  208°,  at  which  point  it  will  boil,  it  will  cool  down 
the  first  hour  to  136°,  in  two  hours  to  106°,  in  three  hours  to  96°,  and 
in  eight  hours  to  60°.  This  I  have  observed  by  actual  trial.  Heating, 
therefore,  gives  it  two  or  three  hours  longer  time  to  cool,  and  the  ad- 
vantage of  a  falling  temperature  is  not  greatly  prolonged  by  once 
heating.  The  boiling  point  of  milk  1  found  to  be  208°.  Milk  boils 
at  a  lower  temperature  tlian  water,  because  less  steam  is  carried  off 
from  the  thicker  liquid  (milk),  than  from  the  thinner  liquid  (water), 
in  consequence  of  which  the  heat  of  the  whole  mass  rises  more 
quickly.  The  greater  expansion,  or  boiling  over  of  milk  is  caused  by 
the  greater  tenacity  of  the  particles.  Water  expands  in  bulk  1-9  in 
raising  the  temperature  from  32°  to  212°,  the  boiling  point  of  water  is 
at  its  greatest  density  at  39°,  expands  again  below  39°  down  to  32°. 
Three  pans  of  new  milk,  warm  from  a  fresh  cow,  were  subject  to  the 
following  different  modes  of  treatment :  Thirty  pounds  of  milk  were 
divided  equally  in  3  pans,  or  10  pounds  in  each  pan.  One  pan  was 
placed  in  ice  Avater,  of  a  temperature  34° ;  the  second  pan  was  heated 
to  208°.  The  third  pan  Avas  set  away  where  the  temperature  was  60°. 
After  standing  48  hours,  they  were  skimmed,  the  pan  in  the  ice  water 
yielding  14  ounces  of  cream,  the  boiled  milk  12  ounces,  and  the  third 
pan  the  same,  or  12  ounces.  There  was  a  great  difference,  however,  in 
the  quality  of  the  cream — that  from  the  pans  yielding  12  ounces  each 
would  have  churned  50  per  cent.,  or  6  ounces  of  butter,  while  that 
from  the  first  pan  Avould  not  have  churned  over  25  per  cent.,  or  3^ 
ounces  of  butter.  Heating  and  cooling  cannot  both  be  advantageous. 
I  therefore  conclude  that  neither  artificial  cooling  nor  heating  are  ad- 
visable. Their  effect  in  increasing  the  difference  in  specific  gravity  be- 
tween cream  and  milk  is  so  small  as  not  to  be  perceptible  in  practice. 
I  cannot  better  describe  the  appearance  of  the  cream  raised  by  the  dif- 
ferent methods,  tlian  by  saying  that  the  cream  raised  by  ice  water 
metliod  looked  like  good,  rich  milk,  while  the  cream  raised  from  the 
lieated  milk  from  the  pan,  treated  in  the  ordinary  way,  looked  more 
like  butter.  My  experience  with  deep  setting  at  low  temperatures  is 
that  you  get  a  great  bulk  of  cream,  but  it  is  thin  and  will  not  churn 
over  20  to  25  per  cent,  of  butter,  while  the  cream  obtained  by  shallow 
setting,  at  higher  temperature  is  thick,  and  will  churn  from  45  to  50 
per  cent,  of  butter. 


49 

The  paper  of  Mr,  Reeder  was  immediately  followed  with  one  on 
A  MODIFICATION  OF  THE  SWEDISH  DEEP  SETTING 

BY    L.    S.    HARDIX,    OF    KENTUCKY. 

Mr.  President,  Ladies  and  Gentlemen :  About  four  years  ago  I 
started  a  butter  factory,  near  the  city  of  Louisville,  Kentucky,  in  a 
climate  hot  and  humid  :  where  animal  substances  decayed  rapidly,  and 
where  insect  and  parasitic  life  developed  spontaneously  and  without 
limit.  To  spread  my  milk  out  in  the  usual  manner  was  to  invite  the 
enemy  I  was  most  anxious  to  avoid. 

To  overcome  my  difficulties  I  began  a  series  of  experiments,  begin- 
ning with  shallow  pans  in  the  open  air,  and  step  by  step  I  lowered  the 
temperature  and  increased  the  depth  of  my  milk,  until  I  reached  what 
is  now  called  the  Swedish  plan  of  setting  milk  in  water  at  forty  degrees 
with  cans  twenty  inches  deep. 

I  found  I  had  passed  the  profitable  point,  and  had  to  retrace  my 
steps,  until  I  decided  upon  AU°  as  the  best  temperature  for  raising  the 
cream,  perfectly,  and  made  my  cans  8  inches  in  diameter  and  12  and 
20  inches  deep.  My  butter  was  now  all  I  desired,  but  the  use  of  ice  in 
cooling  water  that  was  in  immediate  contact  with  the  hot  air,  was  too 
expensive.  I  soon  discovered  it  took  less  ice,  to  cool  a  given  cube  of 
air,  than  it  did  to  cool  the  same  cube  of  water.  It  was  equally  evident 
that  it  was  a  useless  waste  of  ice  to  cool  off  a  whole  room  full  of  air  ; 
and  reasoning  from  these  premises  I  concluded  to  confine  my  milk  and 
air,  to  the  smallest  possible  space,  in  order  to  economize  the  use  of  ice. 
I  then  built  me  a  box  with  double  sides  and  close  fitting  double  door, 
putting  a  hood  or  trap  over  the  waste  water  pipe  so  as  to  entirely  ex- 
clude the  surrounding  atmosphere.  A  space  of  one  inch  is  left  open 
on  each  edge  of  the  shelf  to  allow  the  air  to  pass  around  the  ice.  The 
drippings  from  the  ice  are  utilized  to  the  extent  of  four  inches  in  the 
bottom  of  the  box.  The  cans  are  made  with  a  perforated  rim  on  the 
bottom  to  allow  the  water  or  air  to  pass  under  them.  The  covers  of 
the  caus  fit  outside  so  as  to  shed  the  water  and  prevent  any  of  the ' 
drippings  getting  in  the  milk. 

It  is  only  after  three  years  satisfactory  experience  and  trial  tests  witli 
the  best  butter  makers  in  this  country,  that  I  have  concluded  to  intro- 
duce this,  as  an  improved  method  of  butter  making. 

In  order  to  criticise  my  method  Avith  intelligence,  it  is  necessary  to 
have  before  your  minds,  all  the  points  of  excellence  that  are  desirable 
in  any  system  of  butter  making.  As  a  friend  remarks,  "  Of  course  it 
is  the  true  way  to  repair  this  old  milk  setting  question,  to  take  it  to 
pieces  as  you  would  an  old  clock,  get  correct  information  as  to  wliat  is 
the  matter,  tlien  set  it  up  and  go  aiiead." 

To  accomplish  this  I  will  submit  to  you  a  high  and  thorougii  stand- 
ard, by  which  I  am  willing  to  have  my  method  tested. 

POIIS'TS. 

First,  the  taste  of  the  butter  produced;  '2d,  the  aroma;  3d,  the 
uniformity  in  quality ;  4th,  the  color ;  5th,  the  grain  or  texture  ;  6th, 
the  quantity  produced  ;  7th,  the  keeping  ([uality ;  8th,  cost  of  making ; 


50 

9tli,  labor  in  making;  10th,  cost  of  utensils ;  11th,  cost  of  buildings; 
12th,  protection  of  the  milk  from  accidents;  13th,  amount  of  skill 
required  to  make  a  fine  article  of  butter ;  14th,  the  practicability  of 
my  method. 

Acknowledging  that  there  are  many  modifications  and  improvements 
of  the  old  style  of  setting  milk,  yet  to  speak  only  of  that  with  which 
you  are  all  familiar,  I  will  compare  my  method,  with  the  old  fashioned 
small  pan  open  air  setting. 

TASTE, 

We  will  first  consider  the  question  of  taste  of  the  butter. 

In  different  countries,  there  are  different  standards  of  taste.  In 
most  of  the  countries  of  Continental  Europe,  butter  is  used  fresh  and 
without  salt.  This  character  of  butter  is  made  best  from  sweet  cream. 
For  this  purpose  my  method  is  admirably  adapted,  as  the  cream  is  al- 
ways skimmed  while  sweet.  A  Russian  gentleman,  Alexis  Elishelf  and 
myself,  made  some  experiments  in  churning  sweet  and  sour  cream. 
We  both  pronounced  the  butter  from  the  sweet  cream  the  best.  I  have 
since  made  two  careful  experiments  in  churning  sweet  and  sour  cream. 
As  both  experiments  turned  out  exactly  alike,  one  description  will  an- 
swer for  both.  I  took  fifty  pounds  of  cream  that  was  sweet  and  liquid, 
perfectly  free  from  skins  or  lumps  ;  stirred  it  thoroughly  together,  und 
while  in  motion,  dipped  out  one-half  by  weight  and  churned  it  imme- 
diately. Put  sour  milk  in  the  other  half  and  let  it  stand  until 
thoroughly  and  sharply  soured.  Both  batches  churned  at  G3'-'.  Each 
of  the  four  churnings  came  in  20  minutes.  In  each  experiment  the 
sweet  cream  produced  five  ounces  the  most  butter. 

Every  person  who  tasted  the  samples  while  fresh,  pronounced  the 
sweet  cream  butter  the  better.  After  keeping  the  samples  several 
months,  I  am  of  the  opinion  that  the  sample  from  the  sweet  cream 
keeps  the  better.  Until  some  one  throws  more  light  upon  this  subject 
I  will  remain  of  the  opinion,  that  sweet  cream  makes  most  butter,  better 
butter  and  longest  keeping  butter.  Too  much  ripening  or  souring 
certainly  destroys  both  the  quantity  and  quality  of  the  cream. 

When  the  milk  is  spread  out  thin,  acd  the  cream  and  milk  allowed 
to  sour  together,  this  ripening  process  must  be  watched  with  great  care, 
or  the  sour  milk  will  injure  the  tender  qualities  of  the  cream.  After 
skimming,  the  cream  is  usually  still  further  ripened  before  churning, 
and  again  great  card  is  necessary,  to  prevent  the  whey  from  injuring 
the  finer  qualities  of  the  cream. 

Milk  exposed  as  in  the  shallow  pan  system,  to  all  the  conditions  most 
favorable  to  active  decomposition  is  ot  course  highly  sensitive  to  their 
influences ;  and  in  order  to  make  a  fine  article  under  such  adverse 
circumstances,  the  butter  maker  must  use  the  finest  skill  and  the  most 
unremitting  care. 

Milk  as  it  comes  from  the  cow,  is  a  pure  and  perfect  food. 

With  my  method,  I  take  it  while  in  this  pure  condition,  and  place  it 
in  an  atmostphere  so  cold  that  decomposition  is  practically  arrested, 
and  hold  it  at  this  temperature  until  the  cream  has  all  risen,  about  3G 
hours.  When  1  skim  the  cream,  it  is  liquid  and  sweet.  As  to  the 
taste  of  butter  made  by  my  process,  I  have  always  received  the  top 
price  of  my  market,  50  cents  tlie  year  round.     Mr.  Willard,  in  liis 


51 

Practical  Butter  Book,  in  treating  of  the  Swedish  system  of  butter 
making  from  milk  set  deep  and  cold,  says  :  "  The  fact  that  Swedish 
butter  under  this  process,  has  risen  to  that  superior  excellence,  that  it 
equals  and  not  unfrequently  outsells,  all  the  choice  brands  brought  in- 
to the  London  market,  whether  of  home  or  foreign  make,  will  be  to 
most  minds  sufficient  proof,  that  the  Swedish  process  is  not  without 
merit." 

Again  he  says :  "  Swedish  butter  has  been  quoted  in  the  London 
market  during  the  past  year  (1874),  from  IGO  to  ITO  shillings  sterling 
and  upward,  per  cwt.,  while  the  best  American  and  Canadian  in  that 
market  has  brought  only  from  90  to  110  shillings." 

AROMA. 

We  will  now  consider  the  aroma  or  odor  of  the  butter. 

Nine-tenths  of  the  butter  bought  in  market,  is  judged  by  the  sense 
of  smell.  If  in  the  course  of  manufacture,  the  light  flavoring  oils  are 
exposed  for  a  long  time  to  the  action  of  the  atmosphere,  they  must  in 
a  measure  disappear. 

By  my  process,  evaporation  is  arrested,  and  if  the  milk  has  come 
from  the  cow  in  a  pure  and  wholesome  condition  the  butter  is  certain 
to  possess  an  exquisite  aroma. 

UKIFOKMITY   IN   QUALITY. 

We  will  now  consider  the  uniformity  in  the  quality  of  the  butter 
produced. 

When  a  fancy  .  article  of  print  butter  is  made,  to  supply 
regular  customers,  it  is  imperative,  that  there  should  be  great  uni- 
formity in  the  goods  produced.  When  milk  is  spread  out  in  a  thin 
sheet,  and  entirely  exposed  to  the  surrounding  atmosphere,  it  is  of 
course  affected  by  every  change  of  the  air,  and  life  is  apt  to  become  a 
burden  to  the  man,  who  has  to  cater  to  the  tastes,  of  fastidious  and 
high  priced  purchasers,  under  these  trying  circumstances. 

That  such  a  system,  in  the  hands  of  the  average  butter  maker  is 
practically  a  failure,  is  evidenced  by  the  quality  of  butter  to  be  found 
in  any  corner  grocery.  By  my  method,  the  milk  is  held  at  a  low  and 
uniform  temperature,  and  as  everything  is  done  by  routine,  the  result 
is  always  the  same. 

COLOR. 

We  will  now  consider  the  color. 

Setting  milk  in  the  dark,  does  not  seem  to  affect  the  color  of  the 
butter  one  way  or  another.  Li  making  experiments,  setting  one-half 
the  milk  in  the  dark  and  one-half  in  the  light,  after  twenty-four  hours, 
there  was  no  difference  in  the  color  of  the  butter.  Prof.  L.  B.  Arnold 
has  said  of  the  butter  made  by  me  in  Chautauqua,  it  "  gave  evidence 
of  having  been  very  high  flavored  and  high  colored  butter,  when  it 
was  new." 

TEXTURE. 

AVe  will  now  consider  the  question  of  grain  or  texture. 

Too  much  heat  is  fatal  to  the  grain  of  butter,  and  it  requires  a  mas- 
ter spirit  to  preserve  its  fine  waxy  texture,  with  milk  set  in  the  open 
air,  and  the  thermometer  indicating  a  tropical  range  from  80°  to  100% 


52 

With  my  method,  the  milk  is  placed  beyond  the  influence  of  the 
exterior  air,  and  it  is  an  easy  matter  to  jDreserve  the  texture. 

QUALITY. 

We  will  next  consider  the  quality  of  butter  produced. 

The  amount  of  butter  produced  from  shallow  pans,  depends  greatly 
upon  the  amount  of  skill  brought  to  the  task.  Mr.  Eastburn  Reeder 
of  Philadelphia,  and  myself,  have  made  comparative  tests  with  the  full 
milk  from  our  herds  of  Jerseys.  In  Mid-Summer  he  required  a  frac- 
tion over  19  pounds  of  milk,  to  make  a  pound  of  butter  with  shallow 
pans,  while  I  have  required  but  a  fraction  over  17  ponnds. 

This  called  forth  the  following  admission  from  Mr.  Reeder : 

"  Mr.  Hardin,  in  his  last  trial  of  deep  getting,  reported  in  the  Country 
Gentlema7i,  *  *  ^'  obtained  from  100  pounds  of  milk  25  per  cent,  of 
cream  and  churned  nearly  six  per  cent,  of  butter.  This  is  better  than 
anything  I  have  yet  been  able  to  accomplish  by  shallow  pans,  while 
using  the  mixed  milk  from  the  entire  dairy,"  In  the  Country  Gentle- 
nian  for  Dec.  2d,  Mr.  Reeder  reports  the  following  experiments  :  With 
the  Swedish  system,  at  the  temperature  of  39°,  he  made  a  pound  of  but- 
ter from  a  fraction; over  Yl  pounds  of  milk.  With  shallow  pans,  at  SO'' 
he  made  a  pound  of  butter  from  a  fraction  over  15  pounds  of  milk. 
With  the  Hardin  method  he  made  a  pound  of  butter  from  a  fraction 
over  14  pounds  of  milk. 

■  It  will  be  remembered  Mr.  Reeder  started  out  my  first  and  most 
strenuous  opponent,  claiming  that  I  lost  25  per  cent,  of  my  butter. 
That  admission  is  the  evidence  of  a  fair  minded  and  generous  nature. 

The  Western  New  York  Dairymen's  Association,  appointed  a  com- 
mittee to  investigate  the  comparative  merits  of  deep  and  shallow  set- 
ting. They  sent  for  me  to  look  after  the  interest  of  the  deep  setters. 
0.  C.  Blodgett  and  Martin  Bailey,  two  of  the  most  finished  butter 
makers  in  Chautauqua,  were  chosen  as  my  opponents  to  make  an  ex- 
periment. I  did  not  have  one  of  my  boxes  with  me,  and  had  to  use 
the  Swedish  plan  of  ice  water,  which  Mr.  Bailey  kept  at  38  ^.  We 
divided  the  night's  milk  from  Bailey's  cows.  They  required  21-53 
pounds  of  milk  to  the  pound  of  butter  with  shallow  pans,  while  I 
required  21-51  pounds  with  the  Swedish  method.  The  combined  skill 
of  Messrs.  Blodgett  &  Bailey  left  me  but  little  to  boast  of. 

My  next  experiment  was  with  Mr.  D.  Douglass  of  Peveley,  Mis- 
souri. He  wrote  in  Colmans  Rural  World,  "  that  he  was  prepared  to 
prove  to  anybody  that  shallow  setting  was  best."  He  has  a  milk  house 
costing  $2,000  and  milks  2G  cows,  mostly  Jerseys.  He  sells  his  butter 
at  top  prices  in  St.  Louis.  I  made  five  ounces  more  butter  than  he, 
we  dividing  the  milk  equally.  Taking  that  as  an  average  milking  he 
loses  1102  worth  of  butter  "per  year,  and  which  could  be  saved  by  my 
process.  He  has  since  experimented  with  my  method  with  better  re- 
sults to  his  shallow  pans,  but  leaving  my  method  still  ahead,  thus 
bringing  evidence  to  support  my  statement,  that  with  greater  skill,  he 
can  improve  the  results  with  shallow  pans. 

Thus  far  I  have  met  only  the  most  finished  butter  makers  and  de- 
feated them.  Of  course  I  have  no  trouble  in  beating  people  who  require 
over  23  pounds  of  milk  to  make  a  pound  of  butter,  and  I  fear  the 


53 

world  is  full  of  them.  I  would  guarantee  that  a  child  ten  years  old, 
with  my  method,  Avould  beat  the  average  butter  maker  with  his  shallow 
pans,  over  two  pounds  of  milk  to  the  pound  of  butter. 

KEEPI2SG    QUALITY. 

We  will  now  consider  the  keeping  quality  of  the  butter. 

When  the  milk  and  cream  are  allowed  to  sour  together,  as  in  shal- 
low setting,  and  the  souring  process  is  still  continued  Avith  the  cream 
after  it  is  taken  off,  there  is  great  danger  of  a  slight  degree  of  decom- 
position taking  place,  which  greatly  injures  the  keeping  quality  of  the 
butter. 

With  my  method  the  cream  is  taken  off  sweet  and  pure,  and  if 
churned  while  in  this  pure  condition,  the  keeping  (juality  of  the  but- 
ter is  insured. 

I  again  quote  from  Mr.  Willard's  Practical  Butter  Book  on  the  sub- 
ject of  the  keeping  quality  of  the  Swedish  butter,  made  on  the  princi- 
ple of  my  method.  "During  the  summer  butter  was  placed  for  some 
time  in  a  dry  cool  cellar,  and  after  two  months,  it  brought  the  same 
price  in  London  as  fresh  butter  sent  at  the  same  time." 

We  have  already  seen  that  the  price  obtained,  was  almost  one  hun- 
dred per  cent,  in  advance  of  American  goods. 

At  my  suggestion,  Mr.  Bailey  put  the  butter  made  by  us  in  his  cel- 
lar, to  test  its  keeping  quality.  Mr.  Blodgett  writes  me,  Bailey  has 
kept  your  butter  in  open  air  all  the  time  and  it  is  yet  very  sweet  and 
nice.  He  is  coming  of  opinio7i  that  yourioay  will  make  longest  keeping 
hutter."  Mr.  Bailey  writes  me :  "I  have  some  of  the  butter  Ave  made, 
standing  exposed  to  the  air,  and  I  must  say,  I  am  happily  disappointed 
in  it." 

These  statements  come  unsolicited,  and  are  not  the  mere  opinions 
of  partial  friends,  but  the  admissions  of  of  my  opponents,  Avhich  con- 
stitutes the  highest  character  of  e\'idence. 

COST   OF   MAKING. 

We  Avill  noAv  consider  the  cost  of  making. 

In  open  air  milk  setting,  the  cost  consists  principally  in  maintaining 
a  fire  in  the  milk  room  in  cold  weather  night  and  day.  This  cost  Avill 
depend  much  upon  the  amount  of  Avinter  dairying  that  is  carried  on. 
As  an  average,  I  should  judge  it  Avould  take  not  less  than  four  cords  of 
Avood  to  supply  a  stove  through  the  cold  Aveather  of  a  northern  winter. 
Charging  this  Avood  at  84  a  cord,  Avould  be  %\^.  A  man's  time  to  cut 
and  split  it,  and  kee^)  up  the  fire  night  and  day,  would  be  worth  not 
less  than  825.     In  all  841. 

If  there  are  thirty  days  of  freezing  Aveather  during  the  Aviuter,  an 
ice  house  twelve  feet  cube,  can  be  filled  for  less  than  820.  Straw  or 
saAvdust  to  cover  it,  84,  Time  of  one  man  taking  out  ice  once  a  day  in 
summer,  810.  In  all,  834.  We  have  thus  87  to  the  credit  of  my 
method. 

LABOK. 

We  will  now  consider  the  Uibor  in  making  the  butter. 
In  shalloAV  setting,  the  labor  consists  in  filling  a  large  number  of 
pans,  lifting  them  first  on  to  racks  and  then  oft"  again.      Skimming  a 


54 

large  surface  while  standing,  and  at  all  times  of  day  and  night  when 
the  best  results  are  obtained,  washing  a  large  number  of  tins,  keeping 
up  a  fire  in  the  milk  room,  fall,  spring  and  winter,  night  and  day,  but 
principally  in  the  great  amount  of  scrubbing  to  be  done,  that  a  large 
room  and  all  of  its  surroundings  should  be  kept  immaculately  clean. 

With  my  method,  the  labor  consists  in  getting  ice  once  a  day,  lift- 
ing the  cans  of  milk  in  the  box  and  out  again. 

The  skimmer  sets  on  a  chair  and  uses  a  dipper.  If  men  handle  the 
milk,  the  long  cans  are  used.  There  is  about  one-fourth  as  much  sur- 
face of  tin  to  wash.  There  is  no  practical  form,  in  which  tin  can  be 
worked,  that  it  will  hold  so  much  milk  as  that  of  the  cylinder.  This 
is  a  settled  principle  in  the  science  of  mechanics,  and  accounts  for  the 
fact,  that  with  my  method,  I  can  provide  the  tin  for  ten  cows,  for  $10, 
while  tins  for  the  same  number  of  cows,  with  the  shallow  pan  system 
will  cost  145. 

A  reasonable  amount  of  neatness  is  necessary,  but  the  milk  is  safe 
in  the  cellar,  or  in  almost  any  room  in  winter,  where  a  fire  is  kept. 

There  is  no  milk  room  to  scrub  at  forever,  until  every  Avomaii  in 
the  business  should  be  furnished  ''  a  cast  iron  back  with  a  hinge  in  it." 

COST   OF   UTENSILS. 

We  will  now  consider  the  cost  of  utensils.  With  the  shallowypan 
system,  it  is  necessary  to  have  twelve  pans  to  the  cow.  A  dairy  of  ten 
cows,  would  require  120  pans,  which  at  14.50  a  dozen,  would  be  $45. 
A  stove  with  its  appurtenances,  would  cost  $18,  and  the  racks  on 
tables  to  set  the  pans  on,  $10  more,  making  a  total  of  $73  to  equip  a 
room  for  shallow  setting. 

With  my  method,  the  tins,  box  and  everything  complete,  for  a  dairy 
often  cows,  can  be  furnished  for  $35,  which  is  less  than  one-half  the 
cost  for  shallow  setting.  Martin  Bailey  writes  me — '•'  If  the  cream  can 
be  brought  in  a  shape  to  churn  easily,"  (he  believes  in  sour  cream,) 
"  and  the  butter  will  keep  equally  well,  (and  I  have  no  doubt  myself 
about  the  keeping),  it  is  the  cheapest  way  milk  can  be  made  into 
butter."  This  is  the  statement  ol  a  practical  butter  maker,  who  has 
bought  his  farm  with  his  cows,  and  makes  over  260  pounds  of  butter  a 
year  from  each  cow  with  shallow  pans.  The  American  Dairymen's 
Convention  adopted  without  a  dissenting  voice,  the  following  resolu- 
tion reported  by  the  committee  on  Dairy  Utensils  :  '•'  We  have  exam- 
ined the  refrigerator  used  in  Hardin's  Improved  Method  cf  Butter 
Making,  and  believe  it  to  be  a  simple  and  cheap  method  of  making 
butter,  and  feel  warranted  in  giving  it  the  highest  recommendii!:ion." 

COST   OF   BUILDINGS. 

We  will  now  consider  the  cost  of  buildings. 

In  shallow  setting,  it  is  necessary  to  have  a  spring  house  or  milk 
room  to  set  the  pans  in.  With  my  method  no  such  room  is  necessary 
but  an  ice  house  is  indispensable,  and  much  of  the  cost  of  it  should  be 
charged  to  the  general  comfort  of  the  family.  Where  print  butter  is 
made,  the  use  of  ice  cannot  be  dispensed  with,  whether  the  milk  is  set 
deep  or  shallow.  Two  of  my  neighbors,  Mr.  Armstrong  and  Mr.  Herr, 
have  fine  stone  spring  houses,  of  course  each  one  is  at  the  foot  of  a 


55 

liill.  Their  wives  carried  crocks  of  milk  up  and  down  those^slippery 
hills,  unil  Mrs.  Armstrong  refused  to  go  any  further.  Mr.  A.- adopted 
my  plan  about  two  years  ago,  aud  his  wife  is  now  serene  and  happy 
wfth  a  uniform  article  of  good  butter.  Mr.  Herr's  Avife  concluded  she 
t  JO  had  enough  of  their  hill,  and  so  he  dug  and  blasted  out  rock  within 
ten  feet  of  his  house,  making  a  kind  of  cellar  at  a  cost  of  $300.  His 
wife  was  pleased  with  this  until  she  discovered  the  refrigerator  plan, 
and  that  remarkable  cellar  has  been  abandoned  to  apples  and  potatoes. 
Her  butter  now  sells  at  top  prices  in  our  market. 

ACCIDENTS. 

We  will  now  consider  the  protection  of  the  milk  from  accidents. 

AVhen  shallow  setting  is  practiced  in  spring  houses,  there  is  the 
accident  of  floods  to  contend  with.  If  a  dry  room  is  used,  the  lire 
sometimes  goes  out,  allowing  the  milk  to  freeze.  While  in  summer  the 
milk  is  often  prematurely  soured,  by  the  effects  of  thunder  storms. 
With  my  method  there  is  no  trouble  from  floods  or  thunder  storms, 
aud  by  putting  the  box  in  a  dry  cellar  in  cold  weather,  there  is  no  need 
of  any  heating  apparatus. 

SKILL. 

We  will  now  consider  the  amount  of  skill,  necessary  to  jiccomplish 
the  best  result,  from  each  system. 

The  milk  is  set  shallow  and  subjected  to  all  the  variations  of  the 
atmosijhere,  in  order  to  get  the  largest  possible  yield  of  butter  from 
the  milk,  it  requires  excellent  judgment,  to  tell  just  when  to  skim, 
and  I  have  had  persons,  who  Avere  jn'oud  of  their  butter  yield,  tell  me, 
they  often  in  hot  weather,  get  up  at  one  or  two  o'clock  at  night  to 
skim  the  milk,  fearing  it  would  be  too  sour  by  morning.  AVitli  my 
method  the  atmosphere  in  Avhich  the  milk  is  set,  is  so  pure  aud  cold, 
the  skimming  can  be  done  Avhenever  it  is  convenient,  between  36  and 
7()  hours.  A  negro  boy  has  exclusive  charge  of  the  milk  of  my  dairy. 
He  makes  about  3,000  pounds  of  butter  a  year.  There  is  a  wonderful 
uniformity  in  the  butter  he  makes,  receiving  top  prices,  and  the  cus- 
tomers have  never  yet  made  a  complaint,  and  yet  1  do  not  believe  this 
boy  could  make  a  pound  of  good  butter,  with  the  milk  set  shallow  in 
the  open  air  of  summer. 

ITS    PRACTICABILITY. 

We  will  now  consider  the  practicability  of  my  method. 

There  is  a  class  of  men,  who  imagine  themselves  progressive,  Avho 
yet  never  hear  of  an  innovation  upon  their  settled  ideas,  but  that  they 
rack  their  brains,  to  produce  a  fatal  objection  to  the  jn'occss,  and  not 
finding  it  at  last  shout  out,  Eureka!  it  is  impracticable  I  To  those 
men  1  say — the  dairy  belt  proper  of  America,  lies  between  the  40th 
and  4oth  parallels  of  latitude,  Avhere  a  failure  of  the  ice  crop  was  never 
known.  1  live  many  miles  below  the  southern  boundary  of  this  dairy 
belt,  and  have  never  failed  to  fill  my  ice  house,  which' is  but  12  feet 
cube,  a  mere  hole  in  the  ground  with  shed  over  it,  atul  it  has  supplied 
an  abundance  of  ice  for  the  milk  of  15  to  to  20  pounds.  With  an  or- 
dinary protection  to  the  box,  it  takes  about  one  pound  of  ice  an  hour 
to  the  100  pounds  of  milk.     The  work  of  two  of  my  neighbors  and 


56 

myself  who  use  this  process,  is  done  by  negroes,  and  whatever  maybe 
thought  of  the  colored  man's  intellect,  his  habits  are  certainly  not  con- 
ducive to  a  fine  article  of  butter.  This  is  the  vital  point  of  excellence 
in  my  method.  We  all  know,  that  when  a  large  amount  of  scrubbing 
is  to  be  done,  there  is  a  vast  deal  of  human  nature  in  the  average 
butter  maker.  He  does  not  like  it,  and  he  will  not  do  it,  at  least  with 
that  nervous  anxiety,  which  alone  insures  a  uniform  quality  of  fine 
butter. 

With  my  method  the  milk  is  protected  from  contact  with  tlie  sur- 
rounding air,  and  kept  at  such  a  low  temperature,  it  is  next  to  impos- 
sible to  spoil  it. 

This  system,  in  a  more  expensive  manner,  has  been  practically  and 
successfully  applied  in  Sweden  for  years.  Indeed,  is  it  modest  or  fair, 
to  call  that  impracticable  which  is  practiced  in  a  more  extravagant 
manner  by  a  whole  nation  of  people,  and  they  producing  butter  with 
it  that  sells  in  the  best  market  of  the  world  for  nearly  double  the 
price  of  our  finest  goods  ? 

Professor  L.  B.  Arnold,  one  of  the  acknowledged  authorities  in  this 
country  upon  the  subject  of  bntter  making,  writes  me — "I  have 
taken  the  liberty  to-day  to  recommend  your  plan  to  a  Shelby  county 
man  as  the  best  thing  known  to  me  for  butter  making  in  Kentucky." 

I  therefore  state  it  as  a  fact,  against  which  I  challenge  successful 
contradiction,  that  with  my  method,  we  can  make  more  butter,  better 
and  longer  keeping  butter  without  any  skill,  and  with  perfect  uni- 
formity, Avith  much  less  labor,  and  with  just  about  one-half  the  cost 
of  the  shallow  pan  system. 

These  are  strong  words,  and  all  that  is  claimed  to  give  them  cur- 
rency, is  that  they  bear  upon  their  faces,  the  stamp  of  truth. 

I  have  thus  attempted  to  present  you  this  question,  fairly  and  intel- 
ligently, and  while  it  is  possible  I  may  be  in  error,  as  to  my  estimates 
or  conclusions  under  some  particular  point,  yet^  when-  all  are  taken 
together,  are  you  not  irresistibly  driven  to  the  conclusion,  that  this 
new  method  of  butter  making,  has  merits,  worthy  of  your  most  serious 
and  patient  investigation. 

The  butter  of  our  commerce  needs  improvement,  and  only  a  tithe 
of  it  is  made  by  the  cunning  hands  of  the  master  AV'^orkman. 

It  is  the  proud  privilege  of  the  strong,  to  assist  the  weak,  and  it 
will  be  the  crowning  glory  of  my  method,  if  by  it,  I  can  taki'  a  single 
straw  from  the  burden,  and  add  but  one  more  to  the  blessings  of  the 
farmer's  life. 

A  summer's  EXPEKIEKGE   in   MAKIKCt   butter  from   SHORTHt)RNS. 

Hon.  Harris  Lewis  was  next  introduced  by  Vice  President  T.  D. 
Curtis  with  the  remark  "Mr.  Lewis  will  now  blow  his  shorthorn." 
As  Mr.  Lewis  is  well  known  as  an  advocate  of  shorthorns,  and  was  to 
speak  of  butter  making  from  shorthorns,  and  is  withal  a  short  man 
himself,  the  pun  had  a  treble  significance,  and  brought  out  a  strong 
burst  of  applause.  After  thanking  Mr.  Curtis  for  the  joke,  Mr.  Lewis 
spoke  extemporaneously  in  substance  as  follows  : 

Although  my  experience  as  a  butter  maker  dates  back  to  the  sum- 
mer of  1833,  yet  I  never  entered  it  as  a  business  until  the  past  year. 


57 

I  have  not  the  tact  and  skill  to  present  the  flowery  side  out,  as  did  my 
Kentucky  friend,  I  will  give  you  the  butter  side.  It  was  somewhat 
late  last  spring  when  I  got  my  butter  factory  working,  and  the  first 
average  was  a  bad  one,  because  we  worked  under  unfavorable  circum- 
stances. My  average  for  the  months  of  May  and  June,  was  25  pounds 
of  milk  to  a  pound  of  butter ;  in  July  and  August  it  averaged  31 
pounds ;  for  the  month  of  September  a  fraction  less  than  174^  pounds  ; 
October  and  November,  15|  pounds.  The  entire  average  has  been 
something  like  19|  pounds  of  milk  to  a  pound  of  butter.  I  want  it 
understood  that  my  herd  has  not  had  a  mouthful  of  grain  to  eat.  The 
last  three  cows  coming  in.  have  had  a  little  grain,  but  their  milk  has 
not  been  used.  My  herd  has  not  even  had  cornstalks  to  eat.  For  the 
first  185  days  my  entire  herd  averaged  about  one  pound  of  butter  a  day, 
with  a  very  small  fraction  variation.  For  the  next  sixty  days  I  struck 
an  average  of  half  a  pound  per  day  per  cow.  For  the  remaining  1;20 
days  I  think  I  can  safely  estimate  it  at  one-quarter  of  a  pound  per  day, 
because  this  includes  the  months  of  April  and  March,  when  the  cows 
are  fresh.  This  average  will  give  a  yield  per  cow  of  245  pounds.  This 
I  regard  a  good  average  for  a  whole  dairy  that  does  not  have  grain  to 
eat.  Part  of  my  herd  are  grade  shorthorns  and  part  natives.  I  set 
tlie  milk  in  large  pans.  Through  hot  weather  I  set  the  milk  at  58", 
with  the  temperature  of  the  room  8  to  10"  higher.  Four  pans  con- 
stitute a  set,  and  we  usually  have  the  cream  all  up  so  that  the  fourth 
pan  may  be  skimmed  to  use  it.  I  desire  the  large  pan  system  m 
j)reference  to  the  small  pan  system,  because  it  requires  less  washing. 
Mr.  Hardin  goes  back  100  years,  to  the  day  of  the  first  tinker  and  the 
day  his  ladle  was  invented.  I  desire  to  skim  the  cream  when  it  shows 
the  first  acidity.  If  the  cream  is  soured  on  milk  at  a  temperature  of 
58",  it  may  be  churned  in  hot  weather  at  that.  It  should  be  churned 
at  this  temperature  at  all  events.  The  colder  the  temperature  of  the 
milk  when  the  cream  is  rising,  the  higher  it  may  be  raised  when  churn- 
ing. Our  ancestors  got  the  witches  out  of  milk  by  throwing  a  hot 
horseshoe  into  it.  We  get  them  out  by  warm  water.  With  this  and 
a  thermometer,  you  can  get  every  witch  out,  head,  neck  and  heels. 
With  all  our  search  for  a  better  churn  than  the  old  dasher  churn,  Ave 
have  found  nothing.  It  is  remarkable  that  the  first  churn  made  should 
have  been  made  on  the  correct  principle,  and  all  the  others  on  an  erro- 
neous principle.  When  my  butter  shows  the  first  indication  of  gran- 
ulating, I  stop  churning  and  bring  the  temperature  up  to  58',  I  then 
continue  the  churning  until  it  comes  in  grains  like  that  (exhibiting  a 
bottle  of  butter).  Wlien  the  butter  obtains  that  appearance,  the  but- 
termilk is  drawn  off,  and  then  it  is  rinsed  in  pure  water.  Then  I  bring 
this  out  with  a  wooden  ladle,  and  the  oscillating  churn,  as  far  as  getting 
out  and  washing  is  concerned,  is  the  most  convenient  churn  I  have 
found.  I  wash  Avitli  cold  water,  uutil  the  water  is  entirely  clear.  I 
then  put  the  butter  on  a  V  shaped  table,  allowing  the  water  to  drain 
off,  adding  one  and  a  half  ounces  of  salt  to  the  pound  of  butter.  The 
secret  of  using  so  much  salt  is  that  in  the  butter  there  remains  a  little 
Avater,  which  is  carried  off  by  the  salt.  In  the  Utica  market,  where  all 
my  butter  is  sold,  I  calculate  to  have  an  ounce  of  salt  to  the  pound  of 
butter.  In  the  seaboard  cities,  not  more  than  three-fourths  of  an 
ounce  to  the  pound  is  necessary.  You  can't  get- more  than  this  down 
5 


58 

a  Bostonian.  The  salt  is  sifted  on  when  the  butter  is  on  the  washer. 
I  never  touch  anything  but  the  ladles  to  the  butter.  I  have  accom- 
plished tv/o  things  by  this  method.  First,  I  have  the  buttermilk  all 
o-at.  Second,  I  have  the  salt  evenly  mixed  into  the  butter.  I  have  no 
working  necessary  to  mix  in  the  salt.  I  shovel  the  butter  into  a  large 
bowl,  and  let  it  stand  for  24  hours  exposed  to  the  atmosphere.  This 
additional  salt  gives  it  a  bright,  beautiful  color.  The  butter  I  am 
about  to  show  you  is  not  a  fair  sample,  having  been  made  from  coarser 
feed  than  usual.  I  have  been  in  pursuit  of  some  package,  for  the 
last  year,  which  should  be  cheap,  good  and  clean.  Some  small  package 
which  would  not  cost  over  a  penny  to  the  pouad  of  butter  it  contained, 
and  which  could  be  used  for  some  other  purpose  afterward,  or  thrown 
away.  I  do  not  fancy  returning  a  butter  package.  I  have  examined  a 
number  of  packages,  and  fiud  the  Adams'  butter  case,  which  I  received 
from  ISTorwalk,  0.,  the  best.^  It  is  made  of  tin  and  holds  forty- five 
cakes  of  butter  put  up  in  this  way  (exhibiting  a  pound  of  butter  in 
cube  form  enclosed  in  an  envelope  made  of  thin  scale  board  soaked  in 
brine).  This  is  the  most  convenient  form  in  which  butter  can  be  put 
up  for  the  consumer.  After  you  get  your  forty-five  cakes  of  butter  in 
the  case,  you  can  fill  it  up  with  brine,  and  I  don't  see  why  it  shouldn't 
keep  any  leugtli  of  time.  I  have  packed  two  cases  in  this  form  to  go 
to  the  centennial,  to  be  opened  a  year  after  it  was  put  up.  The  fancy 
prices  paid  for  butter  generally,  are  paid  for  the  manner  in  which  it  is 
put  up.  Butter  in  tubs  is  just  as  good,  but  if  the  consumer  will  pay 
an  extra  price  for  small  packages,  then  let  us  put  it  up  in  this  way. 

In  reply  to  Mr.  Bonfoy — After  the  butter  has  stood  24  hours,  I  work 
it  with  a  tapering  lever  sixteen  square,  with  a  downward  and  side  mo- 
tion, which  is  better  than  the  downward  motion  simply.  I  would  say 
by  way  of  encouragement  that  I  intend  to  make  my  butter  better  ;  I 
intend  to  grain  my  cows  next  season,  and  bring  my  average  up  to  300 
pounds  per  cow.  It  is  a  fact  that  the  better  you  feed  cows,  the  more 
quiet  you  keep  them,  the  less  traveling  you  compel  them  to  do,  the 
more  you  consult  the  comfort,  convenience  and  happiness  of  eows,  the 
more  and  the  better  butter  they  will  produce.  A  brutal  man  has  no 
business  to  be  a  farmer,  or  to  live  in  a  civilized  community.  First, 
you  must  have  a  good  cow  ;  then  good  food  and  water;  then  good  care 
and  treatment.  In  regard  to  shorthorns  for  butter  making,  I  will  say 
that  if  I  was  to  make  butter  making  my  sole  occupation  for  life,  I 
should  get  the  Jersey  cow  in  preference  to  the  shorthorn.  But  if  I, 
like  other  men,  was  subject  to  sickness  or  other  accidents,  so  that  I 
would  be  at  times  unable  to  make  butter,  and  be  compelled  to  sell  my 
milk,  I  should  say  the  Jersey  was  the  least  valuable.  I  should  say 
that  for  all  purposes — for  milk,  butter,  cheese  and  beef,  the  shorthorn 
stands  first,  second,  third,  and  everywhere.  Select  heavy  animals  for 
level,  rich  lands,  and  light,  active  animals  for  steep  hills.  Vast  sums 
of  money  have  been  expended  to  bring  the  different  breeds  up  to  their 
present  high  condition,  but  I  prefer  the  shorthorn. 

DISCUSSION. 

The  reading  of  this  series  of  papers  upon  butter  making  was  fol- 
lowed by  a  discussion.  L.  T.  Hawley  and  T.  D.  Curtis,  of  Syracuse, 
spoke,  indorsing  the  method  of  Mr.  Lewis. 


59 

Mr.  Middaugh,  of  Allegany — My  practice  is  to  ascertain  the  true 
time  of  skimming  by  applying  the  fingers  to  the  surface  of  the  cream. 
If  it  adheres  to  them  it  is  ready  to  skim ;  if  not,  the  oil  denoting 
its  readiness-  has  not  risen.  This  method  is  safe  if  the  atmosphere 
is  dry. 

Mr.  Hawley — I  doubt  the  propriety  of  straining  immediately  and 
setting  away.  The  amount  of  animal  heat  in  milk  differs  with  differ- 
ent cows,  and  the  cream  will  not  rise  uniformly  as  to  time  or  quality. 
The  remedy  is  to  pour  all  the  milk  into  a  single  vessel  and  to  stir  it. 
Uniformity  is  thus  secured  in  the  quality  of  cream,  and  it  will  all  appear 
at  the  same  time. 

The  problem  of  making  good  cheese  out  oi  skim  milk  is  one  whose 
solution  would  be  one  of  the  most  important  discoveries  in  the  inter- 
ests of  the  dairy.  Experiments  have  frequently  been  made  to  accom- 
plish this  object.  Last  year  Prof.  L.  B.  Arnold,  of  Rochester,  proposed 
to  scald  milk  before  making  the  butter,  heating  it  130°.  He  believed 
cheese  made  from  the  skim  inilk  resulting  would  be  an  improvement 
upon  ordinary  skim  cheese.  Mr.  John  T.  Ellsworth,  of  Barry,  Mass., 
tested  the  theory  of  Prof.  Arnold,  and  on  Tuesday  evening  he  presented 
a  very  interesting  paper  describing  his  experiment  and  its  results.  It 
was  as  follows : 

SCALDING    MILK    FOR   BUTTER   AND    SKIM   CHEESE. 

One  year  ago  last  November  I  commenced  to  heat  my  milk  to  raise 
cream  for  butter,  and  watching  the  whole  matter  carefully  from  the 
milk  directly  from  the  cow,  the  quantity  and  quality  of  the  butter,  and 
the  taste  of  the  consumer,  I  became  satisfied  that  I  was  making  a  bet- 
ter article  by  heating  the  milk  than  1  ever  made  before  at  the  same 
season  of  the  year. 

At  your  meeting  last  winter,  held  at  Utica,  I  asked  if  there  was  any 
gentleman  present  who  had  practiced  heating  milk  through  the  sum- 
mer, for  making  buttter,  and  no  one  replied.  I  asked  the  same  ques- 
tion at  the  Vermont  Dairymen's  Association  with  the  same  result. 
Now,  not  being  able  to  find  any  one  who  had  tried  it  and  feiled,  I  de- 
cided I  would  keep  heating  my  milk  until  I  found  good  reason  for  stop- 
ping. 

The  more  I  considered  the  matter  the  more  resolved  I  became  to 
make  cheese  of  the  skim  milk.  It  seemed  a  hazardous  undertaking, 
because  I  could  not  learn  as  milk  was  ever  handled  in  this  way  by  any 
one. 

Now  for  heating  the  milk  of  forty  cows  there  must  be  some  con- 
veniences for  doing  it.  I  had  a  set  of  Empire  State  pans  for  25  cows, 
arranged  for  setting  and  cooling  milk,  and  knowing  that  hot  water 
was  forced  by  heat  through  a  coil,  in  a  stove,  into  cold  water  to  heat  it, 
and  as  I  Avished  to  arrange  as  economically  as  possible,  I  ordered  a 
cheese  vat  and  a  stove  with  a  copper  coil,  and  a  plumber  to  arrange  the 
pipes,  &c.  We  made  some  mistakes  which  were  discouraging — there 
was  not  fall  enough  and  the  pipes  and  faucets  were  too  small,  and  I 
was  told  that  I  was  beaten.  I  said  no,  not  till  I  can  not  make  good 
butter  and  cheese  from  heated  milk.  The  next  movement  was  to  raise 
the  pans  in  the  room,  put  tlie  stove  outside  on  a  flat  stone,  put  in 
larger  pipes  and  stopcocks,  then  fired  up,  and  it  was  a  success. 


60 

Doubtless  yon  wish  to  know  how  I  have  succeeded ;  I  will  tell  you 
as  briefly  as  possible.  I  commenced  to  make  cheese  May  27,  and  have 
heated  my  milk  and  made  butter  and  cheese  since  that  date  up  to  the 
present  time.  As  I  knew  something  about  making  cheese  by  the  fac- 
tory system,  and  could  not  afford  to  make  many  mistakes,  I  trusted 
to  no  one,  but  took  the  whole  charge  and  responsibility  myself.  I 
found  the  milk  worked  differently  from  the  milk  of  different  dairies  at 
the  factories,  consequently  had  to  feel  my  way  along,  make  some 
changes,  but  after  a  time  I  succeeded  in  making  a  very  good  cheese, 
which  sold  readily  at  a  little  'less  price  than  whole  milk  cheese.  I  set 
my  milk  up  to  September  2,  twelve  and  twenty-four  hours  for  butter 
then  made  cheese  without  the  butter-milk ;  had  not  learned  the  value 
of  butter-milk  at  that  time,  and  believed  the  butter  better,  made  from 
ripe  cream.  If  the  butter-milk  is  added  to  the  cheese,  it  must  be  done 
when  sweet.  During  this  time,  out  of  curiosity,  I  made  a  butter-milk 
cheese ;  it  was  very  soft  and  rich,  and  I  came  to  the  conclusion  that  it 
would  be  of  the  greatest  value  if  added  to  the  milk,  and  made  into 
cheese.  My  butter  was  firm  and  sweet,  never  made  any  that  would 
stand  handling  and  transporting  in  warm  weather  so  well  before.  It 
ran  even  each  week,  always  giving  satisfaction.  On  September  3,  I 
commenced  to  set  the  milk  24,  36  and  48  hours,  churn  sweet  and  add 
the  butter-milk  to  the  milk.  In  this  way  I  made  more  butter  and  bet- 
ter cheese,  which  was  very  gratifying ;  followed  this  course  awhile ;  as 
the  season  advanced  the  milk  grew  less ;  with  good  demand  for  butter. 
I  proposed  that  we  let  the  milk  stand  24,  30,  48  and  60  hours,  and  did 
so,  the  milk  keeping  sweet  and  working  as  well  through  the  cheesing 
process  as  when  I  set  it  12  and  24  hours,  and  made  a  cheese  that 
sold  well  and  gave  good  satisfaction. 

The  number  of  pounds  of  milk  which  it  took  for  a  pound  of  butter 
and  cheese  varied  each  month.  The  most  it  took  at  any  season  was 
the  first  four  days  I  commenced  setting  12  and  24  hours — 38  pounds 
of  milk  for  a  pound  of  butter,  and  a  little  less  than  12  pounds  for  a 
pound  of  cheese  fron  the  press. 

The  smallest  amount  was  in  November,  when  it  took  25  pounds  of  milk 
for  1  pound  of  butter  and  8f  for  a  pound  of  cheese.  The  average  from 
six  trials  made  during  the  season,  was  34^  pounds  of  milk  for  1  pound 
of  butter,  and  10^  pounds  for  1  pound  of  cheese.  At  each  trial  the  butter 
was  worked  dry  and  lumped,  and  the  cheese  was  weighed  from  the  press. 
The  cheese  was  all  sold  in  Worcester,  Mass.,  to  retail  grocers,  except 
what  I  have  on  hand,  for  from  10  to  12^  cents  per  pound ;  average 
sales  about  11:^  cents.  The  butter  is  sold  in  Worcester,  all  at  one 
house,  for  45  cents  per  pound. 

A  word  about  the  whey.  I  always  supposed  whey  from  skim  milk 
must  be  pretty  poor  food  for  anything,  but  to  my  surprise  my  hogs  did 
first  rate  fed  with  it  without  grain  of  any  kind.  I  fed  it  new  and 
sweet,  and  think  the  sugar  must  all  be  left  in  it.  My  attention  was 
called  to  a  trial  out  West,  stating  that  less  butter  was  made  from  heated 
milk  tlian  from  milk  that  was  not  heated.  I  resolved  to  make  a  trial 
for  my  own  satisfaction,  and  did  so  October  18.  Set  258  pounds  milk 
without  heating,  but  cooled  to  65  \  and  252  pounds  by  heating  it  to  130°, 
then  cooled  to  65  ;  each  amount  of  milk  stood  forty-eight  hours.  The 
result  was,  the  heated  milk  produced  one-half  pound  the  most  butter. 


61 

1  wish  to  call  the  attention  of  just  one  class  of  dairymen  to  this  pro- 
cess of  haudling'their  milk,  I  mean  those  whose  farms  are  so  far  away 
from  any  factory,  that  it  is  Avorth  a  large  part  of  their  milk  to  deliver 
it  there,  and  w^io  are  obliged  to  make  it  up  at  home,  in  the  old  com- 
mon way  of  farm  dairy  cheese. 

In  closing,  I  will  say,  that  I  could  not  be  induced  to  make  milk  into 
butter  and  cheese  without  first  heating  it,  as  there  is  everything  in 
favor  of  it  and  nothing  against  it  in  my  judgment. 

DISCUSSION. 

Mr.  Ellsworth,  in  response  to  a  query,  said  that  by  his  process,  he 
had  never  been  troubled  with  floating  curds  or  sour  milk,  and  that  he 
used  much  milk  besides  his  own.  He  heated  the  milk  directly  after 
milking.     He  had  never  had  to  contend  with  tainted  milk. 

Professor  Arnold — Heating  to  130°  will  diive  out  all  animal  odors, 
but  it  will  not  save  milk  under  all  circumstances. 

Mr.  Ba])Cock,  of  New  York — It  has  been  suggested  that  by  freezing 
milk  all  the  cream  can  be  brought  out  to  the  best  advantage.  The 
cream  will  immediately  come  to  the  top  and  freeze  slightly.  It  may 
then  be  taken  from  the  surface. 

Mr.  Lewis — Mr.  French,  of  Otsego  county,  makes  his  winter  butter 
by  this  method  with  the  best  results. 

Professor  Arnold — This  method  is  undoubtedly  efficient ;  but  I  have 
found  that  the  cream  is  thus  injured. 

On  motion,  a  committee  to  report  upon  dairy  products  exhibited,  was 
yppoiuted.  The  committee  was  composed  of  visitors  from  Canada. 
Harvey  Farrington,  C.  E.  Chad  wick  and  E.  Caswell. 

AFTERlS^OON   SESSlOI?". 

The  attendance  was  large,  about  555  persons,  including  nearly  100 
ladies,  who  were  present. 

The  proceedings  of  the  convention  opened  with  a  discussi(.>n  of  the 
subject  of  farm  butter-making.  Allusion  was  made  to  the  fact  that 
good  butter  is  made  under  the  most  diverse  circumstances,  as  illus- 
trated by  the  different  oj)inions  respecting  temperature.  Some  makers 
recommend  a  temperature  as  high  as  120  degrees,  and  others  as  Ioav  as 
the  freezing  point  for  setting.  This,  said  Mr.  Lewis,  is  owing  to  the 
fact  that  different  makers  attempt  to  develop  different  essentials. 

T.  D.  Curtis,  of  Syracuse,  spoke  recommending  the  use  of  churils 
and  other  utensils  which  are  not  composed  of  wood.  He  recommended 
tin  churns,  or  wooden  churns  with  a  tin  lining. 

Mr.  Lewis  responded  that  the  butter  so  adheres  to  the  tin  tliat  it  is 
extremely  diilicult  to  manipulate  the  butter. 

Pemarks  were  also  made  by  Professor  L.  Wetlierell,  of  Boston,  in 
which  lie  took  occasion  to  question  the  accuracy  of  the  lactometer. 
The  dilference  in  the  flavor  of  butter  made  from  different  breeds  of 
cattle  is  not  perceptible. 

FACTORY    BUTTEK. 

L.  D.  Paddock,  of  Malone,  Franklin  country,  read  apaper  explaining 
the  method  of  factory  butter  making  in  that  country. 


6^) 

ADDRESS  OF  L.  D.  PADDOCK. 

I  am  here  to-day  by  invitation  from  your  Secretary,  Prof.  Arnold, 
to  explain — as  has  been  announced — Factory  Butter  Making,  as  prac- 
ticed in  Franklin  County,  N.  Y.  I  shall  not  undertake  to  instruct  you, 
dairymen  of  Central  New  York,  in  the  art  of  butter  making,  but  I 
will  try  to  tell  you  something  about  butter  factories,  how  they  are 
operated,  and  how  we  handle  our  milk,  cream,  and  butter,  and  some  of 
the  benefits  we  receive  from  this,  with  us,  new  system  of  butter 
making.  And  to  introduce  the  subject,  I  will  tell  you  what  has  been 
done  in  our  county  of  Franklin  in  this  direction.  Until  within  a  few 
years  dairying  in  our  county  was  of  but  small  importance.  Farmers 
kept  but  few  cows,  made  their  butter  at  home  in  the  old  way,  and  did 
not  consider  the  business  very  remunerative.  In  fact,  our  butter 
would  not  bring  as  much  per  pound  in  market,  as  that  of  our  neigh- 
boring county  of  St.  Lawrence,  into  several  cents  per  pound.  Not  but 
what  our  farmers'  wives  and  daughters  could  make  just  as  good  butter, 
with  same  conveniences,  as  those  of  any  other  county,  but  the  business 
with  us  was  carried  on,  on  a  small  scale,  and  you  are  all  well  aware 
that  when  it  takes  from  three  to  half  a  dozen  churnings  to  fill  a  single 
tub,  though  each  churning  may  be  good,  fair  butter,  yet,  such  a  tub 
of  butter  will  not  sell  in  market  for  anything  like  a  fair  price,  for  a 
first  rate  article.  Then  there  was  another  thing  that  injured  our  rep- 
utation for  butter  making,  or  that  gave  us  a  reputation  for  making 
poor  butter,  and  that  was,  that  a  considerable  amount  of  foreign  butter 
found  its  Tray  into  our  county  for  a  market,  or  for  shipment  to  other 
markets,  and  was  sold  in  market  as  Franklin  county  butter.  But 
since  the  introduction  of  the  factory  system,  all  is  changed.  The 
dairying  interest  is  fast  becoming  ou«e  of  the  great  interests  of  our 
county,  and  our  farmers  are  anxious  to  get  and  keep  all  the  cows  that 
their  farms  will  carry,  and  our  butter  has  a  reputation  for  excellence, 
wherever  it  has  been  introduced,  equal  to  that  of  any  county  in  the 
State,  or  any  other  State.  I  will  venture  to  say,  that  as  a  general  rule, 
there  is  no  butter  made  in  the  country,  in  private  dairies,  that  will 
compare  at  all  favorably  with  our  factory  butter,  unless  they  have 
equal  facilities,  and  then  it  is  not  uniformly  as  good,  for  the  reason 
that  in  a  private  dairy  the  business  does  not  receive  that  prompt  atten- 
tion, at  the  proper  time,  that  it  does  in  the  factory.  Now,  our  butter 
brings  the  highest  market  price,  and  in  fact,  a  large  portion  of  it  is 
sold  at  home  above  the  highest  market  quotations.  Formerly,  there 
were  about  as  many  different  samples  of  butter  as  there  were  dairies. 
Now  we  have  one  sample  for  a  whole  neighborhood.  Formerly,  if  a 
farmer  kept  six  or  seven,  or  ten  cows,  and  had  in  the  fall  one  sixty 
pound  tub  of  butter  to  sell  for  each  cow  that  he  kept,  it  was  about  as 
well  as  they  would  average.  Now,  if  they  do  not  get  two  tubs  per  cow, 
it  is  because  they  are  either  very  poor  cows,  or  they  do  not  get  enough 
to  eat,  and  I  certainly  know  from  my  own  experience,  that  I  realize 
more  than  double  the  amount  net  cash  per  year  for  the  use  of  my 
cows,  that  I  did  when  we  made  our  butter  at  home  in  the  old  way, 
and  I  had  about  as  good  common  conveniences  for  making  butter  as 
any  one ;  and  we  thought  we  knew  how  to  make  good  butter,  and  get 
about  all  there  was  of  it.      Some  of  the  benefits  that  we  derive  from 


63 

the  factory  system  of  making  butter,  are,  first,  tlie  drudgery  of  making 
butter  in  the  summer  season,  that  generally  falls  heaviest  upon  the 
women  folks  on  the  farm,  is  removed.  Then  we  make  a  great  deal 
better  butter,  and  more  of  it,  and  it  brings  from  five  to  seven  cents 
per  pound  more  than  any  common  farm  dairy  l)utter. 

The  present  state  of  things  in  dairying  was  brought  about  princi- 
imlly,  by  the  introduction  of  a  large  milk  })an  constructed  with  a 
double  ijottom,  leaving  a  space  for  the  circulation  of  water  to  cool  the 
milk.  This  was  what  is  called  the  Jewett  pan,  and  was  invented  by  a 
dairyman  residing  in  our  county  by  that  name.  These  pans  were  at 
first  intended  for,  and  were  used  in  private  dairies,  having  the  'pans 
made  large  enough  to  hold  the  milk  of  a  single  dairy  of  cows  at  a 
milking.  The  pans  proved  a  success.  But  this  way  of  using  them 
did  not  seem  to  meet  the  wants  of  dairymen  generall}^  from  the  fact 
that  there  was  only  occasionally  one  that  had  good  water  to  use  under 
his  pans.  Then  it  was  rather  too  expensive  for  a  small  dairyman  to 
adopt  this  plan.  But  in  almost  every  iieigborhood,  a  spring  of  water 
could  be  found  that  could  be  made  available  for  this  purpose.  Then 
the  idea  occurred  to  some  of  our  dairymen  that  we  might  have  butter 
factories  as  well  as  cheese  factories,  and  use  these  pans,  aud  have  them 
large  enough  to  hold  the  milk  of  100  cows  or  more  at  a  milking.  This 
idea  met  with  pretty  general  approval,  provided  it  could  be  made  to 
Avork.  In  the  spring  of  1870  a  small  fiictory  was  started  as  an  experi- 
ment, by  Mr.  Lytle,  using  four  of  the  100  cow  pans  f  he  first  year, 
"beginning  with  fifty-eight  cows,  and  ending  witli  ninety-four,  one 
pound  of  butter  was  obtained  from  23J  pounds  of  milk  the  season 
through,  although  a  severe  drouth  prevailed,  which  was  considered 
detrimental  to  the  quality  of  the  milk.  The  first  sales  of  butter  from 
this  factory  were  three  cents  a  pound  more  than  good  dairies  in  that 
vicinity;  the  last  part  of  the  season  eight  cents."  He  charged  four 
cents  per  pound  for  making  the  butter,  including  salt,  packages,  &c. 
This  venture  succeeded  beyond  the  most  sanguine  expectations.  The 
next  year  another  set  of  pans  were  added  to  this  factory,  aud  three 
others  v/ere  built.  Now  there  are  in  operation  in  our  county  28  fac- 
tories, receiving  in  the  aggregate,  daily,  the  milk  of  about  7,000  to 
8,000  cows.  There  might  have  been  butter  factories  in  other  parts  of 
the  country  previous  to  this  time,  however  that  may  be,  we  in  our 
county  had  no  knowledge  of  any,  and  consequently  had  no  one  to 
pattern  after,  so  that  as  far  as  we  were  concerned  the  factory  plan  of 
making  butter,  was,  perhaps  I  might  say,  nearly,  or  quite  original  with 
us.  It  is  true  we  had  heard  of  creameries,  in  which,  as  we  generally 
supposed,  butter  was  made  from  sweet  cream,  and  cheese  made  from 
the  milk.  Then  again,  the  idea  of  cooling  milk  for  making  butter,  by 
setting  it  in  cold  water,  was  not  a  new  one.  At  the  time  the  first 
butter  factory  was  built,  there  were  in  the  county,  I  think,  five  cheese 
factories — four  of  them,  I  understand,  have  since  been  converted  into 
butter  fiictories,  which  have  this  advantage  over  cheese  factories,  if  no 
other,  we  have  the  sour  milk  to  feed  instead  of  the  whey.  This  milk 
is  generally  estimated  with  us  to  be  worth  about  ten  dollars  per  cow. 
Some  seasons  this  estimate  would  perhaps  be  high,  as  that  depends  of 
course,  some  on  whether  your  cows  are  good  "milkers,  or  poor  ones, 
and  also  on  the  price  of  pork,  and  the  value  of  young  stock. 


64 

I  am  aware  that  I  have  made  my  introductory  a  great  deal  too  long, 
and  I  will  now  proceed  to  speak  more  directly  of  butter  factories.  The 
first  thing  to  be  considered  in  building  a  butter   factory,  is  location, 
and  in  selecting  a  location  there  are  two  things  in  particular  to  be 
taken  into  consideration.     The  first  is  water.     You  must  set  your 
factory  where  you  can  obtain  a  good  supply  of  <?(??(Z,  spring  water ; 
brook  or  rain  water  will  not  do,  excepting  as  power  for  cliurning, 
which  when  it  can  be  had,  is  the  best  and  cheapest,  otherwise  you 
must  use  an  engine  or  horse  power.     Small  engines  suitable  for  churn- 
ing, can  be  obtained  for  about  $250.     There  are  several  such  in  use 
Avitii  us.    In  the  second  place,  you  should  locate  where  you  can  obtain 
milk  from  the  greatest  number  of  cows,  for  it  will  cost  about  as  much 
to  build  and  run  a  factory  for  200  cows,  as  it  wiJJ  for  one  with  300  to 
400.     The  labor,  which  is  the  largest  item,  will  be  just  about  the  same 
in  the  one  case  as  in  the  other — as  a  general  thing.     It  requires  the 
services  of  a  man  and  woman  to  run  one  of  these  factories,  and  you 
cannot  get  good  help,  those  that  understand  the  business,  short  of 
about  three  dollars  per  day,  for  seven  days  in  a  week.     Your  extra 
expense  in  running  a  factory  with  350  or  more  cows,  over  one  with 
200,  is  principally  in  tubs  and  salt.     Now,  as  an  investment,  a  butter 
factory  which  receives  the   milk  of  only  200  cows,  will  not  pay.    I 
presume  the  same  is  true  of  a  cheese  factory.    For  instance,  if  we 
make  20,000  lbs.  of  butter  in  a  factory  in  a  season,  and  charge  4  cents 
for  making,  tl^it  gives  us  $800  with  which  to  pay  our  running  expenses, 
and  interest  on  our  capital  invested.     Now  it  will  take  every  dollar  of 
that  1800  to  pay  the  running  expenses  saying  nothing  about  interest  on 
your  investment.     Now  suppose  that  instead  of  that  amount,  we  make 
40,000  lbs.  of  butter ;  that  at  4  cents  per  pound,  gives  us  $1600.    Now 
the  extra  expense  will  not  be  over  about  1200,  leaving  us  $600  for  the 
use  of  our  money.     The  cost  of  a  butter  factory  when  fully  equipped, 
is  from  $3,000  to  $3,500,  or  more  if  you  choose.      Some  have  built  for 
considerable  less  than  that  sum.     In  building  a  butter  factory  you 
want  a  good,  well  ventilated  milk  room,  a  work  room,  and  a  churning 
room,  and  a  good,  cool,  dry  cellar,  and  a  good  ice  house,  and  it  is 
most  convenient,  where  you  can  get  a  bank  to  build  against,  to  have 
your  cellar  at  the  end  of  your  building,  and  on  a  level  with,  and  off 
from  your  milk  room.     This  will  save  a  great  deal  of  hard  labor,  car- 
rying cream  and  butter  down  and  up  stairs.     You  can  have  just  as 
cool  a  cellar  there,  if  well  made,  and  it  will  be  dryer  and  lighter. 

The  walls  of  your  building  should  be  constructed  with  particular 
reference  to  the  exclusion  of  extreme  heat  or  cold  from  your  milk 
room,  so  that  you  will  be  able  to  keep  it  at  an  even  temperature.  The 
most  convenient  size  for  a  300  cow  factory  is  30  by  50,  with  the  walls 
10  feet  in  height,  that  will  give  a  milk  room  30  by  38,  which  is  large 
enough  for  three  set  of  the  one  hundred  cow  pans.  Four  pans  are  a 
set.  Then  you  have  a  work  room  12  by  16,  and  a  churning  room  12 
by  14.  If  you  use  four  set  of  pans,  your  building  should  be  62  feet 
long.  The  work  room  and  churning  are  at  the  end  of  the  building, 
where  the  milk  is  taken  in.  The  walls  in  all  of  the  rooms  should  be 
ceiled  on  the  inside  about  four  feet  from  the  floor,  and  also  overhead. 
The  remainder  should  be  smoothly  plastered,  and  all  of  the  wood  work 
well  painted.     There   should  be  blinds  placed  on  the  outside  of  the 


65 

windows,  to  protect  the  milk  from  the  rays  of  light.  The  pans  are 
set  Avith  their  ends  to  the  wall  on  each  side  of  the  milk  room,  with  a 
space  of  about  20  inches  between  the  pans  in  the  rows,  and  an  alley- 
Avay  hetwecn  the  two  rows  of  pans,  of  about  seven  feet  wide,  lengthwise 
of,  and  in  the  centre  of  your  milk  room.  Then  if  your  cellar  is  at  the 
end  of  your  Iniilding,  you  have  a  door  leading  from  your  milk  room 
into  it  at  one  end  of  the  alley  way,  and  a  door  at  the  other  end,  leads 
into  the  work  room,  in  a  straight  line  to  a  door  leading  to  a 
platform  on  the  outside  at  the  end  of  the  building.  The  pans  are  set 
on  tables  made  just  the  size  of  the  pans,  and  about  two  feet  high. 
The  one  hundred  cow  pans  that  we  use  are  51  inches  wide,  130  inches 
long,  and  seven  inches  deep.  The  space  for  Avater  is  about  1:^  inches. 
The  water  for  cooling  the  milk  is  brought  into  the  milk  room  in  lead 
or  gas  pipes,  Avhich  are  fastened  to  the  Avails  of  the  room,  along  the 
ends  of  the  pans,  and  just  above  them,  and  the  Avater  is  taken  out  for 
each  pan,  through  a  faucet  placed  just  where  they  are  Avanted.  Then  the 
milk  is  brought  to  the  pans  on  a  truck,  on  which  is  first  placed  the  scales 
for  Aveighing  the  milk.  The  truck  has  four  iron  grooved  Avheels  on  iron 
axles,  Avith  a  plank  box  platform  large  enough  for  your  scales  to  stand 
on,  and  high  enough  so  that  when  your  Aveighing  can  is  in  its  place  on 
the  scales,  that  the  bottom  of  your  can  will  be  a  little  higher  than  the 
top  of  the  pan.  Then  Ave  make  a  track  for  the  truck,  by  listening  to 
the  floor  f  inch  half  round  iron,  about  tAvo  feet  apart,  running  from 
the  outside  door  to  the  farther  end  of  the  milk  room. 

The  handling  of  the  milk  until  it  reaches  the  factory  is,  I  presume, 
the  same  as  that  taken  to  a  cheese  factory.  The  milk  when  draAvn 
from  the  coav  is  strained  through  a  Avire  cloth  strainer  into  the  can, 
audit  is  again  strained  at  the  factory,  through  a  cloth  strainer,  into 
the  pans  at  our  "Keeler  Factory."  The  patrons  all  strain  their  milk 
into  Avhat  is  called  "  Bussey's  Aerator,"  or  deoderizing  steamer  pail, 
through  Avhich  it  runs  into  the  can.  As  soon  as  the  milk  arri\'es  at 
the  factory,  it  is  emptied  into  the  weighing  can,  and  from  that  into 
the  pans.  The  Avater  is  let  on  as  soon  as  you  commence  to  fill  the 
pan.  The  milk  should  be  cooled  doAvn  to  from  GO'  to  02  as  soon  as 
possible,  and  it  should  be  kept  as  near  that  temperature  as  possible 
until  the  cream  has  all  risen.  When  it  is  found  to  be  cool  enough, 
you  can  graduate  your  supply  of  water,  so  as  to  keep  the  temperature 
just  Avherc  you  Avant  it,  or  shut  it  oflF  entirely,  as  the  case  may  require. 
The  temperature  of  the  milk  room  should  be  a  little  higher  than  that 
of  the  milk.     We  think  70'  about  right. 

NoAv  in  order  to  have  a  butter  factory  a  success,  it  is  indispensably 
necessary  that  all  of  your  cans,  pans,  pails,  &c.,  at  the  farm  and  factory 
should  be  kept  perfectly  clean  and  SAA'eet,  and  you  must  be  able  to 
keep  the  temperature  of  your  milk  room,  milk  and  cream,  exactly 
right  all  of  the  time.  You  can't  run  a  butter  factory  Avith  Avarm 
Avater.  Neither  can  you  make  gilt-edge  butter  from  impure  milk. 
'W'i  most  scrupulous  neatness  must  be  observed  in  the  handling  of 
ilie  milk,  and  making  the  butter,  and  I  Avould  not  hire  a  man  or 
Avomun  to  Avoi'k  in  a  butter  factory  that  I  did  not  believe  to  be  ibafuraUy 
neat,  and  if  I  found  on  trial  that  they  Avere  not,  I  Avould  not  keep 
ihem.  And  next  to  neatness,  it  is  necessary  to  haA^c  a  good  butter 
maker,  a  person  or  persons,  that  understand  their  business  perfectly. 


66 

If  you  can't  get  such  an  one,  you  might  as  well  shut  up  yoar  factory. 

The  milk  is  allowed  to  stand  36  hours,  unless  it  is  ready  to  be 
skimmed  before  that  time.  It  must  be  skimmed  at  just  the  right 
time,  and  that  is,  as  a  general  rule,  as  soon  as  it  becomes  sour.  It  is 
sometimes  the  case  that  the  cream  cannot  be  removed  at  that  time 
without  loss.  In  that  case,  you  must  wait  until  the  milk  thickens.  In 
taking  off  the  cream  we  use  a  large  skimmer  about  8  by  10  inches 
square,  with  a  handle,  and  a  low,  broad,  four  quart  pan  or  dipper  Avith 
a  handle.  This  rests  on  the  edge  of  the  pan,  and  when  full  is  emptied  into 
tin  pails  holding  about  four  gallons,  and  the  cream  is  then  carried  into 
the  cellar  and  set  in  a  vat  of  cold  water,  where  it  is  kept  at  the  right  tem- 
perature by  means  of  ice  put  into  the  water  from  time  to  time  as  occa- 
sion requires.  This  is  in  case  your  cellar  is  not  cool  enough.  The 
sour  milk  is  emptied  from  the  pans  through  pipes  leading  to  the  out- 
side of  the  building  into  a  large  vat,  from  which  it  is  taken  away  by 
the  patrons.  Cream  taken  off  to-day,  for  instance,  is  churned  to- 
morrow morning.  We  use  two  sixty  gallon  barrel  churns,  and  put 
about  20  gallons  of  cream  into  each  churn.  If  you  get  in  too  much, 
it  takes  a  long  time  for  the  butter  to  come.  The  churns  are  run  at 
the  rate  of  about  30  revolutions  a  minute.  We  start  the  churning 
early  in  the  morning,  when  it  is  cool,  and  before  the  milk  begins  to 
arrive.  It  usually  takes  about  an  hour  to  do  the  churning,  but  some- 
times longer.  As  soon  as  the  butter  is  come  in  a  granulated  state,  we 
stop  churning,  and  draAvoif  the  buttermilk  through  a  sieve,  so  as  not 
to  waste  any  butter,  then  pour  two  or  three  pails  full  of  water  into  the 
ciiurn,  and  give  it  a  few  revolutions  with  the  hand  so  as  to  rinse  it 
well,  then  draw  off  as  before,  and  repeat  the  operation  until  the  but- 
termilk is  well  rinsed  out  of  the  butter.  The  butter  is  then  taken 
from  the  churn  and  put  into  large,  round,  wooden  trays,  and  carried 
into  the  cellar,  where  it  is  weighed  and  then  spread  out  thin  on  the 
butter  worker,  and  salted  at  the  rate  of  one  ounce  to  the  pound, — unless 
otherwise  ordered — some  of  our  customers  want  but  half  an  ounce  to 
the  pound,  and  some  more  than  an  ounce.  We  use  either  the  best 
Onondaga  factory  filled  dairy  salt,  or  the  Ash  ton.  Most  of  the  facto- 
ries I  believe  work  their  butter  but  once^  and  pack  as  soon  as  they 
think  it  worked  enough.  At  our  factory  the  butter  is  all  worked 
twice.  The  first  time  just  enough  to  work  the  salt  in  well.  It  is 
then  put  back  into  the  trays  and  covered  with  a  clean  cloth,  and  set 
away  until  the  next  morning,  when  it  is  w^orked  again,  taking  care  not 
to  let  your  lever  slip  or  slide  on  the  butter,  or  to  in  any  way  injure  the 
grain  of  it.  Then  as  soon  as  we  think  the  buttermilk  all  out,  it  is 
packed.  We  generally  pack  in  sixty  pound  packages,  and  the  very 
best  that  can  be  obtained.  It  is  then  covered  with  a  cloth,  and  that  is 
covered  with  salt  about  half  an  inch  in  thickness.  If  the  butter  is  to  be 
kept  long,  the  salt  should  be  moistened  just  enough  to  make  a  paste, 
and  then  pressed  down  tight  all  around.  Put  on  a  tight  fitting  cover, 
and  your  butter  is  ready  for  market. 

It  usually  takes  on  an  average,  about  23  lbs.  of  milk  for  a  polind  of 
Ijutter.  That  depends,  however,  very  much  on  whether  3'-ou  are  able 
to  control  the  temperature  of  your  milk.  Then  your  feed  lias  some- 
thing to  do  with  tlie  quantity  of  the  milk.  Some  seasons  it  takes 
more  pounds  of  milk  for  a  pound   of  butter  than  others.     The  past 


67 

season  with  us  such  has  been  the  case.  I  think,  as  a  general  thing, 
cows  fed  on  dry  land  pastures,  give  richer  milk  than  those  fed  on  wet 
land  pastures,  while  the  latter  gives  the  greatest  quantity. 

The  following  questions  were  then  taken  from  the  question  drawer 
and  read  by  the  Secretary : 

Is  the  present  grain  of  salt  the  best  size  for  the  butter  maker  ? 
Would  not  a  finer  grain  enable  him  to  work  the  butter  dryer  ? 

L.  T.  Hawley  said,  I  do  not  approve  of  working  out  all  the  moisture 
from  1 'Utter,  I  would  wash  it  with  brine.  It  is  best  after  washing 
the  butter  to  vary  the  amount  of  salt  according  to  the  moisture.  It 
is  not  important  to  pulverize  the  salt.  Coarse  salt  will  produce  good 
brine. 

West  Grove,  Chester  Co.,  Pa.,  1st  Mo.,  6th,  18TG.     . 

Esteemed  Friend,  E.  Reeder  : — For  some  months  past  I  have  been 
under  appointment  by  our  Experimental  Farm  Club,  to  report  the 
nature  and  character  of  "  Color  in  Butter P  It  is  well  known  that 
different  cows,  kept  alike  on  the  same  feed,  make  butter  of  diJBTorent 
shades  of  color — hence  we  might  infer  it  was  the  cow,  and  not  the 
feed  that  gives  the  color. 

Then  we  know  the  same  cow  will  make  much  yellower  butter  in 
summer  than  in  Avinter,  and  then  we  might  say  the  feed,  or  the  season, 
had  to  do  with  the  color.  Again,  take  the  same  cow's  cream,  have 
temperature  and  all  just  right — churn  in  40  minutes  or  so,  and  we 
have  a  splendid  yellow  butter.  Xow  some  of  the  same  lot  of  cream 
mismanaged,  and  too  warm  or  too  cold,  may  come  in  three  minuteSj 
or  may  take  two  hours  to  come,  and  both  be  poor  and  white.  Here, 
neither  cow,  season  or  feed  will  be  to  blame,  but  why  is  it  while  ?  I 
have  had  the  best  of  Jersey  cream  make  a  very  pale  butter  by  too 
rapid  churning.  Take  any  cream,  put  in  a  bag  and  buried,  in  the 
ground,  will  make  butter,  but  always  white.  Now  Avhat  is  it  that 
gives  color  to  butter,  and  why  such  variations  ? 

There  is  so  much  among  the  butter  literature  of  late,  that  I  felt 
willing  to  call  thy  attention  to  the  subject,  and  ask  for  some  help. 

Thine,  Thomas  M.  Harvey. 

Secretary  Arnold's  attention  was  called  to  the  question  concerning 
color.  Mr.  A.  said :  The  cause  of  color  in  butter  is  not  very  Avell  un- 
derstood. Color  is  not  a  necessary  element  in  butter,  and  probably 
has  nothing  to  do  with  its  taste.  It  is  common,  however,  for  high 
color  and  high  flavor  to  be  found  in  the  same  parcel,  and  hence  Ave 
associate  the  tAvo  as  having  a  connection.  High  color  in  butter  has  no 
more  connection  Avith  high  flavor,  tlian  the  green  color  of  grass  has 
Avith  its  nutritious  elements.  They  can  be  separated  in  either  case, 
for  high  flavor  occurs  Avithout  high  color,  and  high  color  exists  Avith- 
out  higli  flavor.  But  as  tliey  commonly  occur  together,  imagination 
associates  them  so  strongly,  that  the  taste  is  generally  satisfactory  if 
the  color  is  right.  Hence  the  efficiency  of  artificial  coloring.  All  the 
elements  of  butter  do  not  have  color.  Butter  is  composed  of  three 
fats ;  a  soft  fit  or  oil  called  olein  ;  a  middle  fat  called  margarine,  or  as 
chemists  now  call  it,  palmatine ;  and  hard  fat  known  as  stearine.  The 


68 

coloring  in  butter  is  attached  to  the  middle  fat,  commonly  known  as 
margarine,  while  the  principal  flavor  in  butter  comes  from  the  olein, 
which  is  as  colorless  as  other  oils. 

The  coloring  in  butter  is  partly  formed  by  the  vegetable  in  the 
elaboration  of  vegetable  fats,  and  hence  is  varied  by  breed  and  feed. 
Green  grass  contains  60  per  cent,  of  yellow  fat,  and  40  per  cent,  of 
Avhite,  and  when  fed  to  milch  cows,  produces  high  color.  Grass  past 
the  blossom  has  these  prorortious  reversed,  and  the  butter  is  lighter 
colored. 

One  of  Mr.  Harvey's  queries  was,  why  does  cream  churned  warm, 
produce  white  butter,  when  the  same  churned  cold,  will  produce  yel- 
low butter  ?  For  the  same  reason  that  cream  is  paler  than  butter. 
When  butter  globules  are  floating  in  the  milk,  or  are  gathered  into 
cream,  they  consist  of  a  little  speck  of  colored  fat,  covered  with  a  col- 
orless or  white  pellicle.  So  long  as  the  globule  remains  in  this  condi- 
tion Ave  can  only  see  the  coloring  of  the  fat  by  a  faint  reflection  of  its 
color  through  the  thin  cover  which  encloses  it.  If  we  break  that  cov- 
ering oil  and  expose  the  fat  to  view,  we  see  its  real  bright  color. 
"Wlien  cream  is  churned  warm,  the  globules  adhere  when  but  few  of 
them  have  been  divested  of  their  covers  by  churning,  and  hence  they 
appear  light  colored  like  cream,  Avhich  they  really  are,  with  just  butter 
enough  churned  to  stick  them  together.  In  a  colder  stage  they  Avould 
not  adhere  till  the  globules  are  nearly  all  divested  of  their  pellicles,  and 
the  yellow  fat  within  them  exposed  to  view,  and  hence  the  product  is 
yellow.  If  the  butter  Avhich  has  come  white,  is  salted  and  set  aAvay 
and  cooled  and  Avorked  a  fcAV  times  at  intervals,  the  pellicles  Avill  peel 
off  and  expose  the  naked  fat,  and  the  butter  will  become  so  yelloAV  as 
if  it  it  had  been  cool  Avben  churned,  but  it  will  not  keep  as  Avell,  be- 
cause the  shells  or  skins  which  haA'^e  been  rubbed  off  by  Avorking  and 
stilting,  Avill  remain  mixed  Avith  the  butter,  and  spoil  it  sooner  than  if 
they  Avere  not  there. 

Col.  Crocker,  of  Binghamton,  favored  feeding  stock  Avith  carrots  or 
corn  meal  to  give  the  butter  a  richer  color.  If  carrots  could  not  be 
procured  in  sufficient  quantity,  he  Avould  color  his  butter  with  grated 
carrots  rather  than  Avith  annatto. 

Mr.  Lewis  enquired  why  he  Avould  prefer  coloring  butter  Avitli  the 
juice  of  a  vegetable  in  a  condition  very  liable  to  decay,  rather  than  the 
juice  of  another  vegetable  reduced  to  a  condition  not  liable  to  decay, 
and  entirely  inert  ? 

Mr.  Witherell  asked  if  two  cows,  a  Jersey  and  a  shorthorn,  Avere 
placed  in  the  same  stable  and  given  the  same  feed  and  treatment, 
whether  the  butter  from  both  would  be  the  same  in  color,  and  if  not, 
Avhy  not  ?     If  the  difference  Avas  in  the  feed,  this  Avould  shoAV  otherAvise. 

Prof.  Arnold  said  the  difference  Avas  in  the  secretive  poAvers  of  the 
animals,  to  some  extent.  The  difference  Avas  illustrated  by  feeding  a 
cow  and  a  hog  on  the  same  food,  when  they  Avould  produce  different 
colored  fat. 

A  voice  from  tlie  reporter's  desk :  "  Of  tAvo  brothers  fed  at  the  same 
table,  Avhy  is  the  hair  of  one  red  and  the  other  black  ?" 

Mr.  Hardin  said  he  soiled  his  cows  on  grass,  but  it  did  not  always 
contribute  to  good  color.  He  had  been  called  antediluvian  because  he 
compared  his  system  Avith  shalloAv  pans.    He   believed  four-fifths  of 


69 

the  dairymen  of  the  country  were  antediluvians  in  this  respect,  and 
used  the  same  old  pan  that  Adam  did.  I  use  corn-fodder,  rye  and 
green  clover  for  soiling.  I  feed  some  fifty  head  of  cattle  for  breeding 
purposes  on  twelve  acres. 

Jacob  Ellison,  of  Herkimer,  said  his  butter,  made  from  the  milk  of 
line-backed  cows,  kept  its  quality  and  flavor  for  a  year.  One  of  the 
objects  of  the  butter-maker  was  to  make  butter  that  would  keep  for  a 
year  or  more.  Mr.  Lewis'  butter  was  of  a  very  good  flavor,  but  lacked 
the  flavor  which  the  line  backs  gave  it. 

AK  EXPERIMENTAL  DAIEY  STATION. 

BY  PROF.  E.  W.  STEWART,  OF  THE  LIVE  STOCK  JOURNAL,  BUFFALO. 

Mr.  President,  Ladies  and  Gentlemen  : — The  magnitude  of  the 
dairy  interest,  reaching  not  less  than  four  hundred  millions'  worth  of 
product  each  year,  led  to  tlie  establishment  of  this  most  progressive 
agricultural  association.  An  examination  of  its  proceedings,  for  the 
first  seven  or  eight  years,  will  show  that  its  attention  was  turned 
wholly  to  the  then  weakest  of  its  specialties,  cheese-making.  This 
product,  then  in  such  disorder  and  of  such  uncertain  quality,  has  now, 
under  the  guidance  and  enterprise  of  the  members  of  this  association, 
assumed  a  fixed  and  nearly  uniform  type  and  advanced  to  the  front 
rank  in  the  best  dairy  markets  of  the  world.  Having  accomplished  so 
mucli  for  this  neglected  branch,  it  has  been  turning  its  attention,  of 
late,  to  securing  greater  uniformity  in  the  butter  product,  which  is 
•still  mostly  made  in  private  dairies. 

This  general  advance  all  along  the  line  of  dairy  productions,  has 
shown  the  necessity  for  numerous  accurate  special  investigations, 
which  neither  inuividual  dairymen  nor  fjictory  managers  are  able  to 
make.  The  improvement  in  dairy  practice,  although  so  great  during 
the  last  twenty  years,  has  been  mostly  the  result  of  diffusing  general 
information  by  which  those  of  inferior  methods  have  been  able  to  ap- 
proximate to  the  aATerage  standard,  while  the  many  special  questions 
tiiat  have  arisen  in  the  most  investigating  minds  remain  unsolved. 

In  f{ict,  it  was  necessary  that  a  higher  general  standard  should  be 
reached  before  dairymen  could  see  the  necessity  of  tlie  more  accurate 
special  information  requisite  for  an  advance  of  the  still  higher  indi- 
vidual standards. 

Now  this  association,  not  willing  to  rest  upon  its  past  laurels,  is 
anxiously  inquiring  how  these  questions,  necessary  to  further  advance, 
may  best  be  solved.  It  is  granted  that  private  individuals  cannot  be  ex- 
pected to  take  upon  themselves  the  labor  and  expense  of  working  them 
out,  and  tliat  factory  managers,  if  they  had  the  facilities  and  the 
knowledge  requisite  to  the  solution  of  those  (j[uestions,  relating  to 
manufacture,  would  not  be  justified  in  using  the  material  belonging  to 
their  patrons  for  experimenting.  It  thus  becomes  evident  that  tliese 
investigations  must  devolve  upon  an  institution,  established  and  ade- 
quately equipped  for  the  Avhole  line  of  experiments. 

QUESTIONS  TO   BE   SOLVED. 

The  inquiries  to  be  undertaken  are  very  numerous,  and  only  a  few 
can  be  mentioned  within  the  limits  of  this  paper. 


70 

1st.  A  system  of  experiments  in  breeding — showing  the  effect  of 
various  crosses  of  thoroughbred  bulls  of  milking  breeds  upon  common 
selected  cows — running  each  cross  distinct  to  the  fifth  generation — 
comparing  the  cross  with  the  thoroughbred  in  results,  both  of  the 
various  dairy  products  and  of  beef,  under  the  same  system  of  food, 
climate  and  care.  This  w^ould  give  a  comparative  test  of  incalculable 
value,  and  probably  result  in  an  American  breed  exactly  adapted  to 
the  general  purposes  of  the  dairy. 

2d.  A  series  of  experiments  in  feeding,  testing  the  effect  of  different 
combinations  of  food  upon  the  chemical  elements  of  milk,  upon  the 
quantity  produced  and  upon  the  health  and  weight  of  the  cow,  the 
cost  of  the  production  of  a  gallon  of  milk,  a  pound  of  butter  or 
cheese,  and  thus  the  value  of  the  different  foods  for  the  production  of 
milk  and  flesh,  the  comparative  profit  of  high  and  common  feeding, 
whether  grain  may  be  profitably  combined  in  the  ration  with  grass, 
what  combination  of  grasses  produce  the  best  quality  of  milk,  and  the 
feeding  value  of  the  refuse  of  dairy  products ;  also  the  eflFect  of  tem- 
perature upon  the  amount  of  food  consumed,  thus  settling,  in  the 
most  accurate  way  known  to  science,  the  comparative  value  of  warm 
stables  and  various  degrees  of  exposure  to  that  of  out-door  winter 
feeding. 

3d.  A  series  of  experiments  in  the  manufacture  of  dairy  products — 
illustrating  the  rising  of  cream  in  deep  and  shallow  setting — in  various 
degrees  of  light  and  temperature — testing  the  effect  of  heating  the 
fresh  milk  to  various  degrees  of  temperature  before  setting,  upon  the 
quantity  of  cream  and  quality  of  butter — the  effect  of  light  and  air 
upon  milk  while  the  cream  is  rising — effect  of  churning  whole  milk  or 
cream  upon  quantity  and  quality  of  butter  ;  also  experiments  tending 
to  solve  the  difficulties  and  disputed  points  in  factory  managers' 
practice. 

4th.  It  should  be  a  consulting  station,  provided  with  experts  in  every 
branch  of  knowledge  which  dairymen  bring  into  use — to  which  every 
dairyman  contributing  to  its  support,  may  send  his  questions  for  solu- 
tion— may  find  the  best  food  ration  for  his  cows,  prescriptions  for 
disease  in  his  herd,  explanation  of  taint  in  his  milk,  and  a  dozen  of 
other  difficulties  which  beset  him.  To  the  factory  manager,  this  sta- 
tion will  be  of  the  greatest  service,  enabling  him  to  bring  to  his  aid 
the  best  scientific  research  and  experiment.  It  should  thus  have  the 
good  will  and  co-operation  of  one  thousand  factory  managers  in  the 
{State  of  NeAV  York,  besides  their  patrons,  owning,  probably,  more 
than  400,000  cows.  Here,  certainly,  ought  to  be  a  basis  for  such  an 
institution,  without  counting  the  owners  of  a  million  cows  in  private 
dairies,  many  hundreds  of  Avhom,  I  trust,  would  gladly  contribute. 

KEQUIEEMENTS  FOE  SUCH   A   STATION. 

The  work  epitomised  above  indicates  the  necessity  of  a  broad  plan 
and  a  thorough  organisation  of  all  its  parts.  I  think  the  necessities 
of  American  dairymen  require  a  broader  institution,  and  the  execu- 
tion of  more  complete  experiments  than  any  of  the  German  stations 
have  given  us.  Their  Avork  has  been  very  valuable,  so  far  as  it  goes, 
and  laid  tlie  world  under  obligations,  but  beijig  mere  advisory  stations 
for  the  determination  of  local  questions  and  largely  for  the  analysis  of 


71 

fertilizers,,  the  director  is  usually  an  expert  chemist,  and  so  far  as  the 
analysis  of  fertilizers,  foods  and  dairy  products  goes,  are  entirely  reli- 
able, but  it  can  not  be  expected  that  a  chemist  alone  is  qualified  to  de- 
cide all  the  questions  relating  to  the  dairy  industry.  We  have  only  to 
refer  to  the  experiments  of  Dr.  Kuhn  and  one  or  two  other  German 
station  chemists  upon  the  effect  of  different  foods  upon  the  chemical 
com]wsition  of  milk  in  which  it  was  sought,  by  feeding  a  special  ra- 
tion for  fourteen  days,  to  determine  its  effect  upon  the  composition  of 
the  milk,  when  a  practical  animal  physiologist  would  knov/  that  a 
good  cow,  in  the  active  stage  of  her  milk  secretions,  would  continue 
to  give  milk  of  about  the  same  average  composition  for  fourteen  days, 
if  the  ration  had  been  simply  straw,  drawing  upon  her  own  system  for 
the  missing  elements ;  but  further  experiments,  of  longer  duration, 
modified  his  first  conclusions.  In  his  later  experiments  the  effect  of 
the  ration  was  very  variable  upon  different  cows,  a  fact  which  a  prac- 
tical feeder  might  have  informed  him  before  the  experiment  began. 
"VVe  hold  these  European  stations  in  highest  respect,  but  this  should 
not  prevent  us  from  seeing  and  correcting  their  errors.  We  need  not 
only  an  expert  chemist,  but  an  expert  animal  physiologist  and  veter- 
inarian— a  botanist,  an  expert  dairy  operator,  an  educated  and  prac- 
tical feeder,  and  whatever  other  special  talent  a  complete  system  shall 
prove  necessary.  No  single  individual  can  combine  all  these  require- 
ments. The  feeding  experiments,  conducted  by  Lawes  and  Gilbert, 
and  those  at  the  Michigan  Agricultural  College,  lose  much  of  their 
value  for  the  want  of  the  presence  of  a  skilled  veterinarian,  who 
should  be  able  to  provide  for  the  health  of  the  animals  during  the 
continuance  of  the  experiment.  In  both  cases  the  effort  was  to  deter- 
mine the  value  (among  other  foods)  of  corn  meal,  and  feeding  this  in 
its  most  concentrated  state,  the  pigs  were,  for  a  considerable  portion  of 
the  time,  in  a  feverish  state,  unable  to  eat  a  full  ration,  yet  these  ex- 
periments are  often  quoted  to  show  the  pounds  of  corn  required  for  a 
pound  of  pork.  A  dairy  station  for  the  Empire  State  should  be  or- 
ganized, so  far  as  possible,  to  avoid  these  errors  by  providing  it  with 
experts  in  ail  the  different  departments  of  knowledge  required.  It 
will  thus  be  seen  that  much  expense  must  be  incurred  if  this  is  to  be 
established  as  a  separate  and  independent  institution,  for  it  will  be  a 
great  school  for  the  education  of  this  largest  agricultural  interest  of 
New  York.  But  by  connecting  it  with  our  Agricultural  College,  to 
which  was  given  the  great  endowment  of  land,  and  which  has  already 
the  scientific  talent  requisite,  and  all  the  buildings,  except,  perhaps, 
one  for  dairy  operations,  the  great  bulk  of  expense  is  avoided. 

I  do  not  know,  from  any  consultation  with  the  trustees  of  Cornell 
University,  to  what  extent  they  are  now  prepared  to  carry  on  such  a 
station,  Imt  I  hazard  little  in  saying  that  the  faculty  will  go  to  the 
full  extent  of  their  valualjle  means  to  second  any  effort  of  this  associa- 
tion or  the  dairymen  of  New  York,  in  furnishing  ail  the  facilities  re- 
quired for  the  line  of  experiments  mentioned.  These  expernnents  re- 
((uire  the  scientific  and  practical  in  harmonious  co-operation.  Let  the 
dairymen  designate  the  expert  practical  operators,  and  the  university 
will  be  but  too  glad  to  match  them  with  their  scientific  yoke-fellows. 
The  agricultural  department  of  Cornell  is  most  iortunate  in  possessing 
the  practical  scientific  talent  requisite  for  carrying  out  just  such  ex- 


72 

perimeiits  as  the  dairymen  of  the  United  States  require  for  the  ad- 
vancement of  this  art.  This  university  has  advertised  its  eagerness  to 
be  of  service  to  the  dairy  and  other  agricultural  interests.  Shall  we 
not  now,  in  our  need,  avail  ourselves  of  this  proffered  assistance  ? 

HOW  TO  SUPPORT  A   DAIRY   STATION. 

If  we  recur  to  the  figures  mentioned  at  the  beginning  of  this  paper, 
and  see  the  immense  interest  at  stake — yielding  a  surplus  product 
greater  than  any  other  single  agricultural  interest — it  will  be  seen  that  an 
assessment  of  one  mill  on  the  dollar  of  product  would  yield  a  sum  suffi- 
cient to  establish  a  station  in  every  dairy  State.  But  suppose  we  examine 
the  dairy  product  of  New  York.  This  State  is  supposed  to  possess  1,500,- 
000  cows,  and  the  product  can  not  be  less  than  160,000,000.  One  mill 
per  dollar  upon  this  sum  would  keep  up  the  working  expenses  of  such 
a  station  for  ten  years.  Suppose  the  1,500,000  cows  of  New  York 
were  assessed  each  only  one  cent,  it  would  furnish  115,000,  or  a  liberal 
working  fund.  How  utterly  insignificant  the  equalized  expense  would 
be  upon  this  great  industry. 

Now  let  us  look  for  a  moment  at  the  need  of  such  an  experimental 
station.  The  New  York  State  census  of  1865  gives  returns  from  133 
cheese  factories  for  1864,  employing  the  milk  of  67,034  cows  through 
the  season,  and  the  average  product  of  cheese  is  only  383  pounds  per 
cow. 

Prof.  Wickson  compiles  the  returns  from  127  cheese  factories  for 
1874  and  published  in  the  last  report  of  the  association,  by  which  it 
appears  that  the  average  product  of  all  the  cows  of  these  127  factories 
was  343  pounds,  showing  an  advance  of  sixty  pounds  per  cow  in  ten 
years — owing  mostly,  no  doubt,  to  the  efforts  of  the  members  of  this 
association.  But  this  table  also  shows  that  the  average  of  the  best 
dairies  of  these  127  factories  was  433  pounds  per  cow,  and  the  average 
of  the  poorest  dairies  of  the  same  factories  was  only  250  pounds  per 
cow,  showing  an  average  difference  of  183  pounds  per  cow  between  the 
best  and  poorest  dairies  in  all  these  factories.  What  a  wide  field  is 
here  for  improvement !  What  interest  needs  an  experimental  school 
if  this  does  not  ?  What  other  interest  could  stand  such  a  wide  dis- 
crepancy of  results  ?  Is  it  possible  to  suppose  cotton  manufacture  to 
exist  with  a  difference  of  60  per  cent,  between  the  highest  and  lowest 
cost  of  production,  and  all  going  on,  indifferent  to  the  facts  in  the 
case.  These  facts  indicate,  not  that  good  farming  don't  pay,  but  that 
it  is  possible  to  get  a  living  with  any  kind  of  farming.  Look  at  a 
great  cotton  factory,  with  its  thousands  of  spindles  running  like  clock- 
work, each  performing  its  part  and  every  operator  understanding  the 
part  assigned  to  him.  Here  we  see  intelligent  order  and  thoughtful 
care  everywhere — the  cost  of  a  yard  of  cloth  can  be  calculated  to  the 
smallest  fraction.  What,  let  us  ask,  is  the  inherent  difficulty  in  plac- 
ing the  great  dairy  interest  under  the  same  intelligent  order  and  dis- 
cipline ?  What  a  transformation  !  and  what  a  paltry  pittance  it  would 
be  for  each  dairyman  to  furnish  the  means  of  running  a  model  experi- 
mental station,  where  all  the  propositions  looking  to  the  advancement 
of  the  dairy  interest  may  be  thoroughly  examined,  and,  if  thought 
worthy,  tested. 


73 

SIMPLEST    PLAN   TO   SUPPORT   SUCH    A    STATIOX. 

Let  me  suggest  the  following  as  a  simple  tiiid  apparently  practicable 
plan  for  supporting  sucli  an  experimental  station.  There,  are  1,000 
cheese  factories  and  creameries  in  the  state  of  New  York,  and  if  we 
suppose  the  average  number  of  cows  to  be  400  per  ftictory,  (which  is, 
no  doubt,  less  than  the  actual  count)  the  owners  of  400,000  cows  are 
directly  interested  in  improvements  in  factory  practice,  and  in  im- 
provements in  breeding,  feeding  and  general  management  of  the  dairy. 
JN'ow  we  all  know  the  marvelous  economy  of  farmers  in  the  expendi- 
ture of  cash,  however  carele.'-s  they  may  be  of  their  products  before 
they  are  turned  into  money,  yet  I  trust  all  these  dairymen  will  respond 
with  cheerfulness  to  the  equitable  proposition  I  am  about  to  make  and 
that  is — that  each  patron  of  a  factory  \niy  over  to  the  o\vner  or  mana- 
ger of  the  factory,  for  the  benefit  of  such  experimental  station,  the 
sum  of  three  cents  per  annum,  for  each  cow  he  milks  ;  and  that  for 
this  small  sum  he  shall  share  in  all  the  benetits  of  the  institution, 
which  shall  include  the  right  for  himself  or  any  member  of  his  family 
to  receive  personal  instruction  at  this  station,  and  prescriptions  for  dis- 
eases in  his  herd.  These  are  small  sums,  to  be  paid  only  once  a  year, 
and  without  any  trouble  to  the  patron,  as  he  goes  to  the  factory  every 
day  during  the  season,  and  the  factory  manager  (!an  easily  transmit  the 
amount  to  the  treasurer  of  the  experimental  station.  This  reduces 
the  basis  of  income  to  a  definite  system,  and  if  carried  out,  would  pro- 
duce at  least  the  sum  of  812,000  with  an  average  assessment  of  about 
thirty  cents  upon  each  dairyman.  Each  factory  manager  ought,  cer- 
tainly, to  feel  sufiicient  interest  in  the  matter  to  explain  and  urge  it 
upon  his  patrons,  and  to  collect  and  transmit  these  small  sums. 

And  now,  gentlemen,  if  dairymen  will  not  respond  to  this  modest 
suggestion  for  their  own  highest  welfare,  we  must  leave  them  to  their 
*'  hardness  of  heart  and  blindness  of  mind.  " 

SALT. 

Mr.  McAdam,  of  Montgomery,  in  reply  to  a  gentleman  from  Canada, 
said — We  use  the  Onondaga  salt.  It  is  not  alwuys  what  we  would  like, 
it  is  not  as  clean  as  the  salt  we  used  to  get  in  England.  But  four- 
fifths  of  the  dairymen  use  it. 

Col.  Crocker,  of  Broome — We  made  a  test  at  Buffalo  a  few  years  ago. 
But  little  was  known  of  the  [Syracuse  salt  in  its  improved  form.  I 
have  tested  the  Syracuse  salt  with  the  Ashton.  Aly  experience  led  me 
to  believe  the  Syracuse  salt  v/as  the  purest  and  gave  the  best  fiavor. 
The  committee  spoken  of  examined  many  ])ackages  of  both  kinds. 
Twice  out  of  three  times  we  decided  in  favor  of  Syracuse  salt,  finding 
the  butter  higher  flavored. 

Mr.  Uawle}' — I  propose  that  we  recommend  to  each  factory  in  the 
United  States  to  pay  an  assessment  of  one  cent  per  cow,  the  funds  to 
be  forwarded  to  this  association,  to  be  used  for  the  purposes  indicated 
by  Mr.  Stewart — an  experimental  dairy  section.  He  spoke  at  length 
in  favor  of  Onondaga  salt. 

THE   CENTENNIAL. 

Horace  J.  Smith,  of  the  advisory  council  of  the  centennial  commis- 
sion, was  called  upon  to  speak. 
6 


74 

J.  H.  Eeall,  of  Philadelphia,  said  the  American  Dairymen's  Associa- 
tion was  the  first  association  which  tlie  government  had  honored  by 
sending  a  representative  to  speak  before  it.     [Applause.] 

Mr.  Smith  spoke  of  the  benefits  of  celebrations  of  this  kind.  Con- 
gress appointed  a  commission  to  prepare  for  the  necessity.  The  first 
feature  of  the  centennial  was  ceremonies,  patriotic  in  nature,  to  com- 
memorate the  hundredth  anniversary  of  American  independence.  The 
second  an  international  exhibition.  The  one  was  sentimental,  the 
other  material.  The  country  has  been  greatly  prospered  in  having  a 
free  educational  system.  It  has  also  one  language,  which  is  spoken 
from  Maine  to  Texas.  The  country  has  secured  the  whole  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi basin.  We  are  blessed  with  a  financial  system  which  is  uniform 
over  the  whole  country.  Our  greatest  blessing  is  that  we  have  a  terri- 
tory which  is  three  times  as  great  as  Europe,  with  the '  exception  of 
Russia.  The  century  just  closed  was  the  grandest  hundred  years  in 
the  whole  of  human  history.  The  developments  of  agriculture,  ma- 
chinery, mining,  and  the  arts  and  sciencies,  physical  and  intellectual, 
are  surprising  and  gratifying.  The  declaration  of  eciual  rights,  is  one 
of  the  grandest  achievements  of  the  century.  Mankind  never  before 
came  together  to  celebrate  the  birthday  of  a  nation.  The  result  will 
be  that  those  who  return  to  other  countries,  will  take  with  them  new 
ideas  of  government,  which  may  make  new  destinies  for  old  nationali- 
ties. The  commercial  advantages  of  the  exhibition  will,  we  believe, 
give  a  new  impulse  to  our  business.  To  the  farmer  and  the  landholder 
the  opportunity  is  offered  of  seeing  the  chances  for  investment,  and  be- 
ginning business  in  all  the  different  parts  of  the  country.  The  whole 
country  is  indebted  to  America  for  introducing  the  system  of  cutting 
grass  and  grain  by  a  pair  of  scissors,  which  is  the  principle  on 
which  the  mowing  machine  works.  The  inventive  genius  of  the  coun- 
try may  be  stimulated  to  produce  even  greater  results  than  the  mow- 
ing machine. 

The  idea  of  exhibiting  your  cheese  in  competition  with  that  of  Eng- 
land and  other  countries,  is  one  of  the  best  of  the  exhibition,  and  will 
be  of  great  benefit  to  you.  The  exhibition  would  be  nothing  without 
the  products  of  the  soil  and  the  manufactures.  It  will  be  of  the  great- 
est benefit  to  dairymen. 

Brief  discussions  of  miscellaneous  topics  closed  the  afternoon  session. 
DAIRY  COMMERCE, 

BY    J.  M.    PETEES,    OF    XEW   YORK    CITY. 

Mr.  President  and  Gentlemen:  The  commercial  aspects  of  the 
Dairying  interest,  upon  which  I  am  to  have  the  honor  of  addressing 
you  briefly,  have,  during  the  past  year  presented  many  features  which 
command  our  considerate  attention.  The  dairyman  himself  is  becom- 
ing so  far  involved  in  the  commerce  in  his  product  that  it  is  not  suffi- 
cient that  he  should  look  merely  into  all  that  pertains  to  "its  manufac- 
ture, but  he  must  study,  as  well,  every  phase  of  its  progress  and  every 
influence  affecting  it  until  it  has  reached  the  consumer.  A  review  of 
the  butter  and  cheese  trade  for  1875,  while  it  shovvsrauch  that  clenotes 
favorable  progress,  is  not  altogether  encouraging  in  its  exhibit  of  finan- 


75 

cial  returns  either  to  producers  or  dealers.  Before  considering  the 
reasons,  however,  let  us  brieJEly  review  the  course  of  trade  during  the 
year. 

The  receipts  of  butter  at  New  York  during  the  twelve  months  of 
1875,  were  1,138,287  packages  against  980,654  packages  in  1874,  and 
948,520  packages  in  1873.  The  recepts  for  the  eight  months  of  the 
trade  year,  beginning  May  1st,  were  in  round  numbers  810,000  pack- 
ages against  736,000  packages  in  1874,  and  770,000  in  1873.  This  in- 
dicates a  greater  excess  over  1874  than  I  am  inclined  to  think  really 
existed.  In  fact  the  opinion  seems  generally  to  prevail  among  those 
best  informed  in  regard  to  the  position  of  the  I\ew  York  market,  that 
there  was,  at  most,  only  a  very  trifling  increase  in  the  number  of  pounds 
handled  last  year,  over  1874.  The  larger  receipts  as  reported  in  pack- 
ages may  be  traced  to  two  causes,  namely — the  greater  care  given  to 
the  collection  of  the  reports,  and  the  unusually  large  proportion  of 
small  packages.  In  the  Welsh  districts  of  the  State,  and  throughout 
the  West,  there  has  been  an  increasing  tendency  toward  the  use  of 
small  tubs,  and  the  average  weight  of  packages  has  been  considerably 
reduced  in  consequence,  though  there  was  a  large  proportion  of  firkins 
in  the  Summer  receipts  of  Western. 

The  year  opened  with  an  overstocked  market  and  a  dull  trade. 
Prices  had  been  forced  beyond  the  point  of  liberal  consumption,  and 
before  the  close  of  the  first  month  the  pressure  of  heavy  supplies  and 
slow  sales  had  begun  a  decline  which  continued  almost  through  the 
first  half  of  the  year.  The  average  price  of  State  dairies — firkins  and 
tubs— in  the  New  York  market  in  January  last,  was  about  35  cents, 
while  Western  averaged  about  26  cents.  In  February  the  average  was 
reduced  to  30  cents  for  State,  and  22  cents  for  Western.  The  March 
average  was  27  cents  for  State  and  19  cents  for  Western,  with  a  dull 
and  declining  market  throughout,  and  in  April  the  average  Avas  down 
to  23  cents  for  State  and  16  for  Western,  the  decline  continuing  until 
nearly  the  middle  of  May,  and  reaching  as  low  a  point  as  18  cents  for 
State  and  13  cents  for  Western,  or  about  50  per  cent,  below  the  open- 
ing rates.  These  low  prices  were  the  means  of  opening  a  considerable 
demand  for  export,  and  it  was  through  this  outlet  that  the  market  was 
relieved  of  the  heavy  stocks  in  time  to  receive  the  new  crop.  The 
decline  had  a  tendency  to  increase  home  consumption  also,  but  much 
of  the  stock  had  been  held  so  long  that  it  Avas  not  suitable  for  home 
use  even  at  the  low  prices  at  which  it  was  offered,  and  was  rejected  for 
the  scattering  receipts  of  fresh  made  Avhicli  had  begun  to  come  in. 
The  lesson  taught  by  the  Avild  purchases  in  the  interior  Avhich  were 
made  by  the  Ncav  York  buyers  in  the  fall  of  1874,  Avas  a  severe  one  to 
the  tratle  and  one  which,  it  Avas  generally  expected,  Avould  be  remem- 
bered. Its  effects  were  felt  in  no  small  degree  by  dairymen  themseh'es, 
as  some  of  you,  doulttless,  can  testify.  The  prostrate  trade  and  falling- 
prices  of  the  spring  of  1874,  convey  a  lesson  so  obvious  that  any  future 
disregard  of  its  teachings  must  be  considered  as  wilfully  suicidal  on 
the  part  of  the  trade. 

The  neAv  crop  of  butter  came  into  the  market  to  a  quotable  extent 
late  in  May,  on  a  basis  of  about  25  cents  for  prime  State  tubs  and  23 
cents  for  Western.  State  Avas  about  one  cent  higher  during  June,  Aviiile 
Western  shoAved  no  quotable  change.     July  shoAved  some  improvement 


76 

on  State,  the  market  going  to  28  cents  as  an  average  price.  Western, 
on  the  contrary,  was  a  trilie  lower  and  did  not  average  over  20  cents. 
During  August  there  was  not  mucli  variation  from  the  figures  of  the 
preceding  month  on  State,  while  Western  was  a  shade  lower  tov/ard  the 
close  after  opening  a  trifle  above  the  July  average.  September  and 
October  Avere  marked  by  over  fluctuations  in  values  and  the  average 
was  raised  to  about  30  cents.  Western  was  unchanged  during  Septem- 
ber, but  Avas  a  trifle  better  in  October.  This  was  maintained  through 
.  November  and  December,  the  average  price  being  about  25  cents. 
During  J^ovember  and  December  the  market  ruled  about  steady  on 
State  butter,  with  quotations  not  differing  materially  from  the  earlier 
figures,  though -for  firkins  and  dairies  the  average  rate  Avas  not  above 
28  cents.  In  quoting  these  prices  I  am  basing  my  figures  upon  the 
grade  representing  the  bulk  of  the  stock,  and  totally  ignoring  the 
exceptional  qualities  Avhich  have  been  used  in  the  best  retail  channels 
at  prices  which  afford  no  true  representation  of  the  value  of  the  crop. 
The  extreme  rates  for  the  fancy  grades  which  are  adapted  to  retail  still 
mislead  country  operators,  as  too  much  of  the  butter  is  graded  in  the 
interior  markets  as  fit  for  the  best  channels.  Strictly  clioice  or  fancy 
grades,  whichever  we  may  please  to  term  tiiem,  do  not  comprise  more 
than  five  per  cent,  of  our  Avhole  entire  receipts,  and  it  must  be  obAdous 
that  a  grade  representing  only  so  small  a  portion  of  our  product  should 
not  be  allowed  to  influence  thfe  value  of  the  bulk  of  the  crop  Avhich  is 
subject  to  influences  Avholly  separated  from  those  which  govern  the 
comparatively  small  amount  taken  by  the  local  retailers.  There  can 
be  but  one  remedy  for  this  evil,  and  that  must  be  in  the  abandonment 
of  the  present  method  of  purchases  in  the  country  and  the  adoption 
of  the  commission  system.  To  this  I  shall  ask  your  attention  fur- 
ther on. 

While  recognizing  and  heartily  applauding  the  great  progress  made 
in  dairying  during  the  past  three  years,  I  am  forced  to  the  belief  that 
this  progress  has  not  been  so  comprehensive  as  the  welfare  of  this 
great  interest  demands.  In  all  that  relates  to  the  manufacture  of 
your  products,  you  have  been  zealous  students,  and  through  your  ex- 
periments and  discussions  improved  methods  haA^e  been  developed, 
until  the  theory  of  dairying  in  the  United  States  has  been  brought  to 
a  point  of  perfection  which  it  has  never  attained  in  any  other  country, 
but  I  cannot  say  that,  in  practice,  this  perfected  theory  has  always  been 
carried  out.  There  are  many  dairymen  in  the  State  of  Noav  York 
Avhose  products,  both  butter  and  cheese,  measured  by  the  best  stand- 
ards we  have,  are  absolutely  faultless.  They  keep  pace  with  the  pro- 
gress made  in  the  study  and  investigations  made  by  scientists,  by  re- 
ducing to  practice  every  neAvly  adopted  theory  Avhich  can  be  applied  to 
the  improvement,  in  any  respect,  of  their  product.  There  are  many 
others  who  seem  to  disregard  all  neAV  methods  and  to  ignore  scientific 
research,  and  Avhose  products  to-day  are  ]jut  little  better  than  they 
Avere  ten  years  ago.  Not  only  do  they  fail  to  progress  themselves,  but 
their  failure  is  a  check  upon  the  growth  of  the  entire  interest.  But,  as 
a  whole,  great  improvements  have  been  made  in  the  processes  of  man- 
ufactures in  their  every  detail,  and  the  energy  Avith  Avhich  researches 
are  pushed  into  ncAV  fields  of  discovery  by  this  Association,  and  others 
of  a  similar  character,  give  encouragement  to  the  hope  that  the  pro- 


77 

gross  already  made  will  be  excelled  by  the  future  advancement  in  this 
industry  until  it  shall  have  reached  the  ntmost  limit  of  perfection. 

In  all  this,  however,  yon  are  not  fully  covering  the  field.  The  growth 
of  the  production  of  butter  has  been  so  rapid  as  to  overcrowd  the 
natural  ontlets  or  those  already  developed,  and  our  large  and  increas- 
ing surplus  of  this  commodity  is  every  year  becoming  more  unprofita- 
ble to  us.  The  prices  at  which  this  surplus  might,  by  judicious  man- 
agement be  marketed,  wonld  afford  results  which  would  render  dairy- 
ing the  most  profitable  branch  of  agricultural  industry.  There  need 
1)6  no  limit  to  the  production  of  snch  goods  as  it  is  in  the  power  of 
American  dairymen  to  supply.  When  the  outlets  now  open  to  us  have 
been  supplied  there  are  still  undeveloped  fields  which  may  be  made  to 
take  all  the  butter  and  cheese  that  even  our  unlimited  resources  can 
furnish,  and  only  a  little  well  directed  enterprise  is  required  to  open 
those  markets  to  us.  AVhile  Ave  will  not  place  ourselves  jn  antagonism 
to  that  principle  of  political  eoonomy  which  establishes  the  imports  of 
a  country  rather  than  its  exports  as  the  basis  and  index  of  its  wealth, 
we  must  regard  an  export  outlet  for  our  surplus  productions  as  of  the 
utmost  importance  to  our  industrial  prosperity.  When  we  have  more 
goods  of  any  class  than  are  required  in  the  ordinary  channels  through 
which  these  goods  are  distributed,  our  only  resource  is  to  move  them 
promptly  into  other  outlets.  Our  markets  are  then  relieved  of  their 
weight,  and  tlie  effect  of  breaking  prices  in  the  regular  channels  which 
must  otherwise  result,  is  thus  avoided.  This  course  is  especially 
desirable  in  connection  with  perishable  goods,  which  might  frequently 
1)6  made  to  realize  profitable  returns  if  they  were  moved  promptly  in- 
stead of  being  held  until  much  of  their  value  has  been  lost  through 
the  deterioration  of  quality.  This  is  almost  invariably  the  case  with 
our  butter  surplus,  though  I  believe  the  receivers  of  Western  butter  in 
the  New  York  market  have,  during  tlie  past  year,  avoided  much  of  the 
unprofitable  delay  in  marketing  their  goods,  which  had  l)een  the  rule 
in  former  years.  We  have  all  learned  ere  this  that  current  receipts  are 
always  to  be  relied  upon  as  furnishing  ample  supplies  for  current  run- 
ning wants,  and  it  is  safe  to  calculate  that  any  material  accumulation 
of  stock  other  than  the  choicest  grade  can  be  more  profitably  disposed 
of  at  the  time  of  its  accumulation  than  after  being  held  for  any  length 
of  time,  since  the  very  fact  of  its  l)eing  upon  the  market  exercises  a 
constant  depression  upon  prices.  To  this  must  be  added  the  cost  of 
carrying  and  the  natural  deterioration  in  ([uality.  We  should  never 
lose  sight  of  the  fiict  that,  practically,  and  so  far  as  relates  to  their 
market  value,  tlie  different  grades  of  butter  are  entirely  independent  of 
one  another.  The  present  position  of  the  New  York  market  illustrates 
this  fact  very  clearly.  'J'he  finest  half  firkin  tubs  are  in  demand  for 
current  local  consumption,  at  o4  to  80  cents  per  pound.  A  dairy  fine 
enough  tliroughout  to  go  into  the  same  channel,  cannot  be  sold  to  the 
jobbing  trade  for  as  much  as  32  cents.  These  goods  must  be  absolutely 
taultless.  \'ery  little  of  the  stock  received  at  New  York  is  fit  for  this  use, 
ami  hence  the  high  prices  obtainable.  Leaving  these  grades  of  firkins 
and  tubs,  and  the  next  (piality  is  not  marketable  to  any  extent  above 
30  cents  for  tul)S  and  27  to  2S  cents  for  dairies  entire.  There  is  the 
same  difference  on  Welsh,  and  also  between  the  finer  Western  creamery 
and  the  factory  and  dairy  butter  from   that  section.     Fine  Western 


78 

creamery  is  quotable  at  30@32  cents.  Western  tubs  and  firkins,  really 
prime  goods,  sell  at  24  to  26  cents.  Should  the  market  and  oat  of 
town  demand  for  this  latter  grade  of  goods  prove  unequal  to  the  sup- 
ply, the  only  channel  into  which  it  could  be  crowded  would  be  for  ex- 
port", and  at  3  to  4  cents  per  pound  below  the  figures  which  market 
men  and  other  home  buyers  are  willing  to  pay  for  such  amounts  as 
they  require,  and  yet  it  were  far  better  that  this  reduction  be  made  and 
the  market  relieved  of  a  burdensome  accumulation,  than  that  the 
stock  be  held  until  by  its  own  weight  it  has  broken  prices  to  a  point 
at  which  somebody  will  take  the  goods.  I  am  inclined  to  the  opinion 
that  the  Western  butter  business  has  never  been  so  well  and 
profitably  conducted  as  it  was  during  1875.  The  local  markets  at  the 
West  afford  the  dairymen  quite  as  high  prices  for  butter  they  require 
for  current  consumption,  as  are  obtained  for  any  class  of  State  goods 
in  the  Ncav  York  market.  But  they  have  a  ivery  large  excess  over  the 
amount  required  for  home  use,  and  this  surplus  finds  its  way  to  New 
York  for  a  market.  The  expense  for  transportation  is  added,  and  the 
prices  realized  are  often  ten  cents  per  pound  below  the  quotations  for  the 
best  retail  grades  in  the  Western  cities.  The  Western  dairymen  have 
learned  the  fact,  however,  that  the  value  of  their  jDroducts  is  what  they 
will  bring  when  put  into  the  market,  and  they  seem  to  favor  the  course 
adopted  by  our  best  houses  during  the  past  season,  of  keeping  the 
stock  moving  at  the  best  price  obtainable.  As  one  of  our  leading 
merchants  remarked,  during  a  dull  period  of  the  summer  season, 
"  there  is  one  advantage  that  Western  butter  has  over  State,  it  comes 
here  to  be  sold  and  if  it  won't  bring  27  cents  we  can  take  17,  if  we  can 
do  no  better."  This  principle  must  be  followed  more  closely  in  rela- 
tion to  our  State  product,  gentlemen,  if  the  dairymen  and  the  dealers 
of  dairy  products  are  to  enjoy  a  healthful  prosperity.  The  value  of 
your  goods  is  what  they  will  bring  when  put  upon  the  market  to-day — 
not  what  your  neiglibor  receives  for  his, — there  may  be  a  difference  of 
live  cents  a  pound  between  your  goods  and  his ;  not  so  many  cents 
below  the  price  of  pails,  nor  so  many  cents  above  the  price  of 
Western,  but  simply  what  the  consumer,  whether  he  be  in  New 
York  or  in  New  Orleans,  in  Halifax  or  in  Liverpool,  can  afford 
to  pay  for  your  goods,  less  the  necessary  profits  to  the  trade  inter- 
vening betv/een  you  and  him.  The  Western  butter  makers  are  crowd- 
ing you  hard  in  every  branch  of  the  trade,  except  in  the  highest  retail 
channels,  and  even  then,  to  a  limited  extent,  their  creamery  pails  suc- 
cessfully compete  with  yours.  The  quality  of  their  product  is  con- 
stantly improving,  and  during  the  past  year  there  has  been  much 
greater  uniformity  in  the  packages  used,  which  cures  what  had  pre- 
viously been  a  serious  defect.  The  old  time  prejudice  against  Western 
butter  has  been  removed,  and  to  brand  a  tub  "  Western  "  no  longer 
condemns  it,  nor  will  branding  it  "State"  insure  its  sale.  A  difference 
of  one  or  two  cents  a  pound,  at  the  most,  is  all  that  the  trade  will  pay 
for  State  in  preference  to  Western,  and  as  the  latter  is  always  kept  at 
a  point  where  consumption  is  not  checked,  we  must  look  in  the  future, 
as  it  is  at  present,  for  a  close  approximation  of  prices  on  the  products 
of  this  and  the  Western  States.  Not  by  raising  western  butter  to  the 
hio-hest  level  of  State,  but  by  bringing  down  State  to  the  basis  upon 
which  Western  lias  found  a  ready  sale.     The  quality  of  the  State  butter 


79 

product  during  the  past  3'ear  has  been  up  to  the  average  in  most  coun- 
ties, the  chief  exception  being  the  Welsh  districts,  which  have  not 
forwardedas  good  a  qnalitj  of  goods  as  they  did  in  1874.  Too  much 
care  cannot  be  bestoAved  upon  every  detail  of  the  manufacture  and 
handling,  and  any  lack  of  care  becomes  apparent  at  once  to  the  critical 
buyer  when  goods  have  reached  the  market.  The  better  and  sweeter 
butter  is  when  it  reaches  the  consumer,  the  greater  will  be  the  consump- 
tion, and  if  we  are  to  open  new  markets  for  American  goods,  it  must 
be  by  furnishing  a  l)etter  quality  than  comes  from  competing  coun- 
tries. 

The  exports  of  butter  from  New  York  during  1875,  were  4,226,- 
976  lbs.  against  4,611,896  lbs.  in  1874,  and  3,586,103  lbs.  in  1873.  For 
the  eight  months  from  Mav  1st,  the  exports  were  3,069,448  lbs.  in  1875, 
3,828,188  lbs.  in  1874. 

Our  cheese  statistics  show  receipts  at  New  York  during  the  vear  of 
2,322,015  boxes  against  2,046,575  boxes  in  1874,  and  2,007,663  boxes 
in  1873.  The  exports  during  the  same  period,  were  92,000,950  lbs., 
equal  to  about  1,867,528  boxes  against  1,639,389  boxes  in  1874.  For 
the  eight  months  of  the  trade  year  the  statistics  are  as  follows :  1875 
receipts,  2,189,275  boxes;  exports,  1,661,180  boxes;  1874  receipts, 
1,919,548  boxes  ;  exports  1,456,009  boxes. 

The  opening  of  1875  found  fjmcy  State  factory  quotable  at  15f @16 
cents,  and  from  this  point  there  was  an  advance  to  16@.16^  cents,  at 
which  point  the  market  continued  until  about  the  first  of  May,  when 
quotations  receded  to  15^  cents  and  liefore  the  close  of  the  month  to 

14  cents.  With  the  incoming  of  new  make,  the  market  ranged  on  an 
average  of  12^  cents  during  June,  but  touched  as  low  a  point  as  114- 
cents  in  July,  and  ruled  about  on  that  basis  in  August.  September 
opened  witli  the  market  down  to  10^  cents,  but  prices  advanced 
steadily  during  the  month  and  closed  at  13^-  cents.  During  October, 
the  market  ranged  from  13  to  134^  cents,  reaching  a  shade  higher  point 
in  November,  but  receding  to  about  13  cents  and  continuing  there 
through  December,     Western  factory  cheese  opened  in  January  last  at 

15  to  15-^  cents,  which  price  was  maintained  until  April,  during  which 
month  14c.  Avas  about  an  average  figure.  .  May  saw  a  decline  to  about 
13  cents,  while  the  average  range  in  June  Avas  not  over  124^  cents,  and 
in  July  12  cents  represented  the  range  at  which  sales  were  chiefly 
made»  August  opened  at  12  cents  but  closed  at  11|  cents,  and  in  Sep- 
tember lOf  cents  was  reached,  after  which  there  was  an  improvement 
and  the  month  closed  at  12^  cents.  October  brought  an  advancing 
market  and  as  high  as  13'y  cents  Avas  reached,  after  Avhich  the  market 
fell  back  to  l2Q^il->\  cents,  AAdiich  price  continued  during  the  remain- 
der of  the  year. 

There  has  been  no  special  effort  made  during  the  past  year  to  extend 
our  exports  of  cheese  into  other  markets  than  they  had  previously  sup- 
plied. In  fact,  I  am  not  inclined  to  the  opinion  that  great  progress 
Avas  made  by  the  trade  in  any  particular.  Our  previous  position  was 
maintained,  but  the  season  Avas  not  largely  profitable  to  the  trade  either 
as  producers  or  dealers.  The  keeping  (pialities  of  the  bulk  of  the 
cheese  received  at  Ncav  York  durinir  the  current  trade  year  have  not 
.been  up  to  the  standard,  and  in  some  instances  this  defect  has  l)een  a 
positive  detriment  to  the  sale  of  our  cheese  in  the  foreign  markets. 


80 

Goods  have  been  made  to  ripen  in  15  to  20  days  and  have  been  for- 
warded, and  exports  arriving  out  in  very  poor  order.  Many  of  the 
shipments  have  had  to  be  sold  immediately  upon  arrival  and  in  some 
cases  at  a  large  loss.  Our  hard  earned  laurels  are  not  to  be  retained 
even  by  merely  keeping  up  bur  former  standard,  and  certainly  not  by 
lowering  the  quality  of  our  products.  It  should  be  the  aim  of  every 
factory  man  as  it  is  the  aim  of  this  association  to  introduce  every  im- 
provement calculated  to  raise  the  quality  of  his  product,  until  other 
markets  now  closed  by  the  competition  of  European  manufacturers 
are  opened  to  us  by  the  superiority  and  cheapness  of  American  cheese. 

The  unsatisfactory  results  of  the  present  methods  of  conducting  the 
butter  and  cheese  trades  in  this  State,  leads  me  to  urge  upon  producers 
and  dealers  the  importance  of  a  reform  in  the  commission  system,  both 
for  butter  and  cheese.  The  entire  Western  product  coming  East  is 
marketed  on  a  commission  basis,  with  results  far  more  satisfactory 
than  have  for  several  years  past  attended  the  marketing  of  the  State 
crop.  The  system  of  purchases  in  the  country  is  a  pernicious  one, 
which  whatever  it  may  bring  of  profit  in  individual  cases,  has  been  a 
detriment  to  the  dairying  interest  as  a  whole.  The  value  of  goods  by 
this  system  is  made  to  depend  too  much  upon  the  opinions  of  a  few 
buyers,  instead  of  being  regulated  by  the  relations  of  supply  and  de- 
mand, which  must  ultimately  determine  the  price.  Unprofitable  spec- 
ulations on  the  part  of  the  buyer  are  very  likely  to  fall  heavily  upon 
the  dairyman  in  the  long  run.  The  merchant  is  entitled  to  his  five 
per  cent  for  doing  the  business  and  he  cannot  afford  to  do  it  for  less. 
A  little  caution  in  your  choice  of  a  commission  house,  to  secure  one  of 
known'integrity,  will  insure  protection  to  your  interests,  and  by  thus 
aiding  in  breaking  up  the  speculation  in  these  products  which  the  pres- 
ent system  has  fostered,  you  will  have  taken  along  step  toward  putting 
this  interest  upon  the  most  substantial  basis  of  legitimate  trade.  The 
interior  market  system  as  carried  on  at  Utica  and  Little  Ealls,  has 
many  advantages,  but  much  of  its  own  benefit  has  been  lost,  especially 
at  Little  Falls,  through  the  looseness  which  has  characterized  the  mode 
of  doing  business  there  during  the  past  season.  The  regulations 
governing  the  sales  at  Litttle  Falls  are  not  enforced  with  any  strictness, 
and  the  result  is  that  most  of  the  cheese  oifering  there  last  season  was 
mortgaged  beforehand  to  certain  buyers.  The  established  rules,  I  am 
informed,  have  been  constantly  disregarded  in  that  market,  and  the 
only  regulations  enforced  have  been  such  as  have  been  made  from  day 
to  day.  At  Utica  there  has  been  more  system  observed,  established 
rules  have  been  adhered  to,  and  stock  offered  has,  for  the  most  part, 
been  open  to  bona  fide  competition,  there  having  been  very  little  "mort- 
gaged" cheese  put  up  for  sale  in  that  market. 

The  home  consumption  of  cheese  still  remains  at  a  point  far  below 
what  it  should  be,  and  is  worthy  of  continued  effort  for  its  develop- 
ment. Fine  cheese  at  the  prices  at  which  it  chiefiy  retails  seems  to  be 
regarded  by  home  consumers  as  an  expensive  article  of  food,  and  yet 
it  IS  exported  to  England,  a  country  where,  of  all  others,  the  poorer 
classes  have  to  practice  the  most  stringent  measures  of  economy,  and 
there  it  becomes  one  of  the  principal  articles  in  the  workingman's  bill 
of  fare.     The  tlevelopment  of  a  liberal  home  demand  would  afford  a 


81 

most  profitable  outlet,  for  much  of  our  cheese  product  and  the  causes 
that  have  thus  far  restricted  this  trade  are,  at  least,  worth  inquirino- 
into.  Could  the  retailers  of  cheese  he  brought  to  realize  that  lowering 
prices  on  tine  cheese  to  the  limits  of  populj^r  consumption  would  in- 
crease their  sales  of  that  article  to  an  extent  that  would  more  than 
compensate  ihem  for  the  reduction  in  their  now  too  heavy  profits,  one 
of  the  chief  barriers  in  the  way  of  a  large  home  trade  would  be,  I  think, 
removed.  Our  home  trade  is  now  supplied  chiefly;, with,  skimmed 
cheese,  and  the  comparatively  few  full  stock  cheese  that  find  their  wav 
into  home  consumption  during  the  summer  and  early  fall  (say^  June 
and  September,)  are  very  largely  the  defective  rejections  from  lots 
taken  for  export.  Our  friend,  Mr.  Willard,  tells  us  Ihat  at  Little  Falls 
even,  it  is  almost  impossible  to  find  at  retail  a  strictly  fine  cheese,  and 
yet  thousands  upon  thousands  of  boxes  as  fine  as  are  made  in  the 
world,  are  every  season  sold  thi'ough  that  market.  It  is  very  unusual 
to  find  good  cheese  in  the  groceries  around  New  York  and  Brooklyn,  and 
you  would  iiave  difficulty  in  making  most  of  the  consumers  in  those  two 
cities  believe  that  an  article  so  fine  as  our  best  factory  cheese  was  really 
tbe  standard  American  cheese,  and  that  the  indigestible  compound  to 
wliich  tliey  have  become  accustomed,  and  which  they  have  found  too 
]ioor  to  eat,  is  any  where  from  a  third  to  a  tenth  rate  product,  which 
foreigners  won't  buy.  Give  Americans  the  very  best  of  our  product 
and  they  will  speedily  become  a  cheese  eating  people.  Skim  cheese  is 
an  adulteration  of  the  worst  sort  and  when,  as  I  hope  we  soon  Avill,  we 
obtain  a  State  or  a  National  law  requiring  the  manufacturers  of  everv 
article  of  food  to  brand  his  product  just  what  it  is  and  requiring-  the 
dealer  to  sell  it  for  what  it  is  branded,  we  shall  have  struck  a  blow  in 
favor  of  fall  cream  cheese,  more  effective  tlian  all  that  cau  be  written 
or  said  upon  the  subject.  The  consumer,  as  a  rule,  is  not  an  expert 
judge  of  clieese,  and  in  the  interest  of  our  pockets  and  his  stomacli, 
let  us  select  his  cheese  for  him,  and  brand  it  so  plainlv  that  his  io-nor- 
ance  need  never  be  imposed  upon. 

I  have  been  announced,  gentlemen,  to  speak  upon  "Eno-]ish  Pro- 
duction, Consumption  and  Future  Supply. "  If  much  is  expected  of 
me  in  this  connection,  I  fear  I  shall  disappoint  you.  Althouo-h  re- 
cently taking  that  subject  in  hand  with  a  view  to  writing  a  series  of 
articles  upon  it,  I  have  not  been  able  to  prepare  in  time  for  this  con- 
vention so  careful  and  comprehensive  a  paper  as  the  (juestion  merits. 
There  arc,  however,  a  few  leading  features  of  the  13ritisli  trade  whicli 
I  shall  touch  briefly.  The  fiiumcial  situation  in  Great  Britain  is  not 
entirely  dissimilar  to  our  own.  The  manufacturing  interests  are  un- 
der a  cloud  which  is  daily  becoming  heavier,  and  it  would  appear  that 
they  are  just  fairly  entering  upon  such  a  period  of  depression  aiul 
business  stagnation  as  we  have  suffered  for  the  past  three  years,  but 
from  which,  everything  indicates,  we  are  now  emerging.  Every  few 
days  the  cable  brings  to  us  the  announcement  of  some  heavy  failure 
in  England  or  Scotland.  It  is  only  the  very  heavy  ones  of  wiiich  we 
hear,  and  for  every  one  of  these  concerns  that  suspend  there  are  many 
smaller  ones  Avliich  are  not  reported  to  us.  The  result  is  that  hun- 
dreds of  operatives  are  daily  being  thrown  out  of  employment,  ami 
tiiis  we  kiU)wfrom  our  own  experience,  means  a  reduction  in  the  food 
consumption.     This  influence  has  not  l)een  without  its  ett'ect  upon  the 


89 

sale  of  American  clieese  in  England  during  the  past  season.  Con- 
sumers have  been  unable  to  buy  as  much  or  pay  as  dearly  for  it  as  they 
did  in  1874,  and  from  this  has  come,  to  a  great  extent,  our  lower  prices 
and  reduced  exports.  How  long  this  condition  of  affairs  is  to  con- 
tinue we  cannot  even  guess,  but  while  it  lasts  we  must  expect  that  our 
commercial  relations  with  Great  Britain  will  be  more  or  less  dis- 
turbed, and  that,  so  long  as  her  working  people  are  idle,  she  will  af- 
ford a  more  restricted  market  for  our  food  staples  than  she  has  during 
the  past  few  years.  Another  fsature  especially  worthy  of  our  atten- 
tion, is  the  fact  that  there  is  throughout  Great  Britain  a  gradual  but 
certain  change  going  on  in  the  complete  abandonment  of  grain  grow- 
ing, and  the  return  to  grass.  In  Ireland  grass  has  already  taken  the 
■place  of  grain  almost  entirely,  and  England  is  fast  following.  There, 
as  in  this  and  others  of  our  older  states,  wheat  has  proved  a  most  un- 
profitable crop,  and  a  change  to  grass  and  its  products  has  been  found 
an  economic  necessity.  The  meat  supply  of  England  is  wholly  inade- 
quate to  her  Avants,  and  she  finds  it  more  profitable  to  raise  her  meat 
and  buy  her  grain,  than  to  reverse  this  order.  With  an  increase  of 
grass  must  come,  of  course,  an  increase  not  only  of  beef,  but  of  butter 
and  cheese.  Now  the  development  of  this  change,  and  the  growth  of 
this  increase  in  the  British  product  of  butter  and  cheese  we  must 
watch  closely.  The  points  I  have  already  noted  indicate  very  little,  if 
any,  increase  in  our  exports  to  Great  Britain  during  the  next  two  or 
three  years,  and  to  what  extent  this  will  occur  is  a  matter  of  no  little 
importance  to  us.  It  is  very  desirable  that  other  export  outlets  than 
those  we  now  possess  should  be  opened  to  us,  and  in  this  direction  it 
becomes  essential  that  our  dairymen  should  familiarize  themselves 
with  the  qualities,  sizes  and  styles  of  cheese  required  by  other  markets 
than  those  we  are  now  supplying.  You  can  beat  the  world  in  dairy 
products,  if  you  will,  and  it  is  only  necessary  to  maintain  your  supre- 
macy through  all  time,  that  you  use  every  possible  means  to  improve 
the  quality  of  your  butter  and  cheese,  to  produce  it  at  the  least  pos- 
sible cost,  and  to  market  it  at  no  greater  expense  than  is  necessary  to 
secure  the  services  of  business  houses  of  ability  and  integrity. 

THE    CENTE^TNIAL. 

J.  V.  H.  Scovill,  of  Paris,  chairman  of  the  centennial  committee, 
presented  a  series  of  resolutions  containing  the  recommendations  of 
the  committee.     They  were  adopted  and  were  as  follows : 

Resolved,  That  this  committee  recommend  as  the  best  plan  prac- 
ticable for  the  exhibition  of  dairy  products  at  the  centennial,  that  a 
cheese  factory  and  butter  factory,  combined  in  one  building,  be  erected 
upon  the  grounds  for  the  display  of  these  products,  and  that  the  con- 
vention authorize  this  committee  to  proceed  at  once  to  the  collection 
of  a  fund  of  110,000  to  defray  the  exjienses  necessary  to  a  complete 
display. 

Resolved,  That  a  committee  be  appointed  by  the  chairman,  consist- 
ing of  one  person  in  the  several  cities,  and  also  in  each  of  the  several 
sections  of  the  different  States,  to  collect  money  for  the  purpose  of 
furthering  the  interest  for  which  this  committee  was  appointed ;  the 
said  committee  to  receive  their  authorization  by  letter  from  the  chair- 
man. 


83 

CAUSES  AFFECTING  THE  CHEESE  INTEREST. 

Address  of  J.  H.  Really  of  P liiladelpliia,  delivered  before  the  Ameri- 
can  Dairymen's  Association,  at  Rome,  JSf.  Y.,  Jan.  12th,  1876. 

I  am  expected  to  speak  upon  the  "  Influences  AflFectiug  our  Cheese 
Interest, "  but  I  may  take  a  little  wider  range,  in  which  event  I  ask 
your  kind  indulgence. 

DEPRESSION  OF  CHEESE  MARKETS. 

The  cheese  interest  has  certainly  been  largely  affected  in  the  wrong 
direction  the  past  season,  whatever  the  cause  may  have  been.  At  no 
time  within  a  year  has  it  been  in  a  good,  healthy  condition.  Towards 
the  first  of  last  January  the  markets,  both  of  this  country  and  Great 
Britain,  became  dull,  and  so  continued  until  the  new  season  came  on. 
During  the  early  spring  they  Avere  in  a  most  critical  condition,  but 
leading  exporters,  who  had  large  stocks  in  England  unsold,  felt  the 
importance  of  preventing  a  break  in  the  American  markets,  and  to 
sustain  prices  here,  bought  freely  and  kept  them  well  up  until  about 
April,  when  old  cheese  declined  to  one  half  its  original  value,  or  less. 
New  cheese  commenced  selling'at  very  fair  prices,  but  went  rapidly 
down,  and  during  the  summer  months  prices  ruled  low.  Early  this 
fall  a  reaction  came,  and  for  a  while  prices  were  upon  a  fair  basis,  and 
the  markets  were  quite  active,  l)ut  for  a  long  time  since  the  trade  has 
been  very  light  and  values  low.  At  this  time  the  trade  is  not  as  large 
as  is  desiralde,  but  the  demand  seems  improving,  and  there  are  fair  in- 
dications of  improved  prices.  It  has  been  ascertained  that  stocks  are 
only  moderate,  while  the  low  prices,  some  -i  cts.  per  pound  lower  than 
for  12  years  before,  should  stimulate  an  increased  demand  for  all 
quarters. 

A    BRIGHTER  FUTURE. 

But  I  for  one  have  great  hopes  for  the  future  of  the  markets.  I 
regard  the  average  quality  of  the  cheese  now  on  hand  as  of  better 
quality  than  usual,  though  some  are  of  the  contrary  opinion.  The 
home  consumption  has  increased  greatly  the  past  year,  and  a  revival  of 
the  export  demand,  which  must  occur,  will  cause  a  rapid  advance  in 
prices,  and  a  prompt  reduction  of  the  stocks  now  on  hand.  It  is  but 
fair  to  reason  that  the  high  prices  of  bacon,  pork  and  beef,  must  re- 
sult in  a  greater  demand  for  cheese,  it  being  a  kindred  article  of  food. 

The  unfavorable  condition  of  the  cheese  trade  the  past  year  may  be 
attributed  to  several  different  causes,  of  which  the  popular  one  is  the 
general  depression  of  manufacturing  and  commerce  in  Great  Britain 
and  the  United  States,  which  now  exists.  To  the  condition  of  trade 
here  we  are  apt  to  ascribe  all  our  misfortunes  ;  but  is  tliis  fair  ?  Has 
not  the  country  enough  to  answer  for  Avith  its  corruption  in  the  pub- 
lic service,  whisky  frauds,  newspaper  gag  laws,  back-pay  congress- 
men, third  term  discussions,  sectarianism  in  politics,  public  school 
agitation,  reading  the  Bible  to  the  children  Avithout  the  parents'  con- 
sent, hard  and  soft  money,  without  being  saddled  with  the  extra  re- 
sponsibility. Butter  has  been  subject  to  the  influences  of  dull  times, 
and  yet  has  brought  excellent  prices.     Pork,  bacon,  beef  and  lard  bear 


84 

the  same  relation  to  the  hard  times,  but  have  maintained  high  figures.  ■ 
If  this  proposition  is  doubted,  those  of  you  Avho  may  have  occasion  to 
pay  board  or  iiotel  bills,  may  be  convinced  by  asking  a  change  from 
war  prices,  when  you  will  be  told  that,  "Beef  is  as  high  as  ever  it  was, 
and  we  can't  afford  to  keep  you  for  less." 

I  do  not  think  the  condition  of  the  cheese  trade  is  at  all  attributable 
to  "hard  times,"  and  the  sooner  we  look  for  and  discover  the  true 
cause  of  our  trouble,  the  better.  To  this  end  a  retrospective  view 
may  be  beneficial.  It  will  be  remembered  that  the  practice  of  skim- 
MTMG  Avas  recommended  a  few  years  ago  in  these  conventions,  and 
through  the  public  press,  in  very  strong  terms.  It  Avas  jjlausibly  ar- 
gued that  cheese  could  be  made  almost  or  quite  as  good  from  milk 
partly  skimmed  as  from  whole  milk,  while  a  large  profit  Avould  be 
derived  from  the  butter  produced.  Dairymen  had  just  enough  human 
nature  in  their  composition  to  prefer  the  plan  that  gave  them  the 
largest  present  net  gain,  and  therefore  commenced  the  plan  of  golden 
promise  throughout  the  country.  For  a  long  time  consumers  made 
Jittle  objection,  but  skimming,  like  other  bad  practices,  grew  worse  by 
usage.  The  public,  Avith  some  exceptions,  learned  that  there  Avas  a 
l:)etter  kind  of  cheese  than  they  had  been  used  to  getting,  and  for  fear 
of  being  deceived  farther,  they,  to  a  large  extent,  declined  to  use  any 
kind.  Exporters  bought:  skimmed  and  inferior  cheese  freely  in  1874, 
and  flooded  the  Englisl\markets  to  such  an  extent  that  the  demand 
fell  off  there,  and  many  consumers  Avere  turned  from  the  use  of 
cheese.  Thousands  of  boxes  of  this  class  of  goods  Avere  sold  there 
last  si:)ring,  at  a  loss  of  50  to  100  per  cent,  to  the  shippers.  The  year 
1874  AA'itnessed  the  height  of  the  half  skimming  practice,  and  from 
that  year  may  be  dated  its  decline.  I  attribute  the  dullness  of  this 
year's  cheese  business,  more  to  the  large  amount  of  skimmed  and  com- 
mon cheese  made  last  year  and  this,  than  to  all  other  causes  combined. 

The  result  has  been  Ioav  prices  for  all  qualities,  but  most  especially 
for  the  poorer  kinds.  Eeceivers  Avill  bear  me  out  in  saying  that  never 
before  has  there  been  aS  great  discrimination  in  quality  upon  the  past 
of  buyers  as  there  has  this  season.  Cheese  which  last  year  brought 
within  one  or  two  cents  per  pound  of  prime  stock,  have  this  year  sold 
sloAV  at  one  half  the  value  of  the  former.  Do  these  facts  need  enlarg- 
ing upon.  Are  they  not  apparent  to  all,  except  those  Avho  do  not 
Avant  to  see. 

I  do  not  intend  to  denounce  skimming  as  a  fraud  or  imposition. 
Those  who  have  practiced  it  haA^e  done  so  from  good  motives  ;  the  de- 
sire to  reap  the  largest  possible  reward  for  their  produce  and  labor. 
Many  have  been  impelled  to  practice  it  by  competition.  It  has  hap- 
pened in  some  cases,  through  peculiar  figuring,  possibly,  that  the  fac- 
tory making  half  skimmed  cheese  declared  the  largest  dividends,  and 
other  factory  men  not  Avishing  to  be  outdone,  have  adopted  the  plan  as 
a  matter  of  self  defense ;  and  they  need  to  avail  themseh'es  of  every 
advantage  to  the  factory  men.  If  there  is  a  class  of  men  that  deserve 
sympathy,  it  is  the  proprietors  and  operators  of  our  cheese  factories. 
Their  work  is  of  the  most  delicate  as  well  as  laborious  character, 
while  they  have  untold  difficulties  to  contend  with  ;  besides,  half  are 
insufficiently  paid  and  the  other  half  could  make  more  money  at  some 
other  employment,  by    the  same   expenditure  of  brain  and    muscle. 


85 

They  are  not  to  blame  for  the  evils  that  have  crept  into  tlie  manufac- 
ture of  cheese,  but  it  is  the  individual  g-reed  of  certain  dairymen,  to 
be  found  in  almost  every  community.  Dairx'men  who,  for  an  extra 
dividend  one  year,  will  encourage  skimming,  and  thus  jeopardise  the 
value  of  their  cows  and  land  for  the  future.  Why,  no  other  interest 
could  have  gtood  up  under  the  many  different  outrages  that  have  been 
perpetrated  against  the  dairy  industry.  Only  its  great  popularity  and 
inherent  strength  have  saved  it  from  irretrievable  ruin. 

A    STAXD    AGAI]S"ST  THE    PRACTICE. 

In  the  matter  of  skimming,  our  friends  in  the  North-AYcst  who 
have  made  such  rapid  advances  in  dairying  that  they  now  produce  an 
excellent  article  of  cheese,  and  some  as  fine  butter' as  there  is  made 
anywhere,  have  taken  prompt  and  effective  action  by  adopting  the  fol- 
lowing resolution  at  the  recent  meeting  of  the  Illinois  Association,  at 
Elgin.     It  was  offered  by  the  Hon.  Judge  Wilcox,  and  read  as  follows  : 

Resolved,  That  the  making  of  skimmed  or  partly  skimmed  milk  into 
cheese  is  detrimental  to  the  dairy  business.  It  tempts  and  facilitates 
cheating,  makes  it  practicable  for  the  dishonest  to  sell,  as  good,  an 
inferior  article  of  cheese,  and  thus  impose  upon  the  consumer.  This 
impairs  confidence  in  all  cheese  manufactured  in  the  region  where  the 
skimmed  milk  cheese  is  made;  damages  the  reputation,  lessens  the 
saleability,  depresses  the  market  price,  and  results  in  the  end  in  loss 
to  the  milk  producer  and  cheese  manufacturer  ;  therefore,  it  is  the 
best  judgment  of  the  association  that  the  best  interests  of  the  dairv 
business  of  the  vState,  demand  that  the  making  of  skimmed  milk 
cheese  should  be  discontinued,  and  that  full  cream  cheese  only  should  be 
made. 

A  Committee  was  then  appointed  to  prepare  a  bill  to  be  passed  by 
the  Legislature  requiring  every  cheese  maker  to  brand  upon  the  band- 
age of  every  clieese  made  by  him,  with  indelible  ink,  Iiis  name  and 
such  marks  as  would  plainly  indicated  whether  it  was  a  skimmed, 
partly  skimmed,  or  whole  milk  cheese.  This  is  both  important  and 
timely,  and  reflects  wonderful  credit  upon  the  intelligence  of  the  dai- 
rymen in  Illinois.  Skimming  was  but  lightly  practiced  there,  but  the 
dairymen  had  sufficient  foresight  to  see  the  injury  the  skimming- 
system  would  entail.  The  action  of  the  Committee  is  warmly  com" 
mended  by  the  Western  Rural,  of  Chicago,  and  I  believe  will  Ije  hear- 
tily endo.s.'d  by  the  entire  Press  of  the  country,  which  has  always 
opposed  iioth  skimming  and  adulteration. 

What  of  the  foolish  dairymen  who  encourage  them  bv  supplying- 
milk,  wljen  the  very  principle  may  destroy  the  value  of  his  dairy 
properfy  for  the  entire  future.  He  is  like  the  man  who  built  his  house 
upon  the  sand.  When  the  rains  came  his  house  was  not  there  anv 
more.  1  shall  not  attempt  any  argument  with  the  proprietors  of  the 
Oleomargej-ine  patent.  They  are  like  the  negro  mentioned  in  one  uf 
the  newspapers, 

AS   TAKIXG    THE    CHAXCES. 

The  other  day  a  colored  resident  of  Vicksburg  found  a  bottle  of 
whiskey  in  the  suburbs,  of  the  city,  and  halting  a  pedestrian,  he 
inquired  : 

"  Dat's  whiskev,  ain't  it?" 


86 

"  Smells  like  it,  and  I  guess  it  is,"  was  the  reply. 

"  And  dere  ain't  no  pizen  in  it  ?" 

"  Well,  there  may  be — I  can't  tell,  I  shouldn't  want  to  drink  it." 

"  If  dere  was  pizen,  I'd  be  a  dead  nigger,  eh  ?" 

"  You  would." 

"  And  if  dere  wasn't  any  pizen  I'd  be  wastin'  a  pint  of  good  whiskey?" 

"Yes." 

The  finder  turned  the  bottle  over  and  over,  smelled  of  the  contents 
three  or  four  times,  and  finally  made  ready  to  drink,  saying :  "  Dere's 
heaps  of  pizen  lyin'  around  loose,  but  dere's  also  heaps  ob  niggers  in 
Yicksburg,  an'  ize  gwine  to  tip  up  de  bottle  an'  run  de  chances  I" — 
Viclcshurg  Herald. 

OTHEE    POOR   CHEESE. 

But  there  are  other  kinds  of  poor  cheese  beside  skimmed.  There 
are  sour  cheese,  cheese  made  from  heated  and  tainted  milk,  and 
cheese  made  of  good  milk  unfit  for  a  dog  to  eat.  I  have  seen  cheese 
made  from  half  skimmed  milk,  far  superior  to  whole  milk  cheese,  both 
made  in  factories  within  three  miles  of  each  other.  The  one  good, 
because  made  right,  the  other  common,  because  not  half  made.  There 
are  iar  too  many  indifferent,  and  worse  than  indifferent  cheese  makers, 
and  why  ?  Simply  because  in  some  localities  factories  are  run  upon 
such  cheap,  not  economic  principles  ;  for  there  is  no  economy  in  cheap 
labor,  that  skilled  workmen  cannot  afford  to  spend  their  time  at  cheese 
making,  without  a  fair  compensation,  and  hence  men  are  often  em- 
ployed to  make  cheese  who  are  no  more  fitted  to  the  duties,  than  they 
would  be  to  manage  the  IST.  Y.  C.  E.  E.  You  save  a  dollar  and  lose 
hundreds,  by  employing  this  class  of  men.  In  many  cases,  a  man  who 
has  worked  three  months  in  a  cheese  factory,  or  has  now  and  then 
hugged  the  sweet  milkmaid  of  the  dairy,  imagines  himself  capable 
of  making  cheese,  when  no  one  should  be  allowed  the  management 
of  a  factory  who  has  not  been  carefully  trained  in  the  practical 
part  of  cheese  making.  Why,  you  would  not  think  of  employing 
a  carpenter  to  build  a  house,  vmo  did  not  know  whether  the 
sharp  end  of  a  shingle  ought  to  point  up  or  down,  or  a  black- 
smith, who  did  not  know  the  difference  between  an  anvil  and  sledge 
hammer.  In  other  matters  you  do  not  engage  the  services  of  an 
inexperienced  person.  Why,  then,  in  so  important  a  matter  as  making 
cheese,  to  save  a  few  dollars  per  month,  employ  incompetent  work- 
men ?  A  cheese  maker  should  have  served  a  regular  apprenticeship 
at  the  business,  and  be  a  man  of  judgment  and  intelligence.  Men 
possessing  these  qualifications  are  worth  wages,  end  the  dairy  industry 
will  be  greatly  promoted  by  the  employment  of  such  men,  and  such 
only  at  fair  living  wages.  Look  well  to  this  matter,  and  you  will  have 
better  cheese.  See  also,  that  the  factory  has  a  good  curing  house,  not 
a  building  like  many  of  those  now  used  for  that  purpose,  open  as 
corn  cribs,  but  a  well  ceiled,  or  lath  and  plastered  building.  Don't  be 
in  too  big  a  hurry  to  start  a  cheese  factory.  If  you  will  all  wait  until 
M;iy  the  first,  you  will  get  a  much  larger  price  for  this  years' 
cheese  and  next,  as  early  made  cheese,  are-  a  curse  to  the  market, 
always  have  been,  and  always  will  be. 

We  have  thus  far  talked  about  bad  cheese.  A  word  or  two  now  in 
reference  to  good. 


87 

GOOD   CHEESE,   WILL    IT   PAY? 

■  Will  it  pay  to  make  clieese  good  ?  That  is  the  first  question  to  be 
considei-ed,  but  one  that  has  been  fully  demonstrated  in  the  aftirma- 
tive  long  ago.  We  know  there  is  no  class  of  agriculturists  who  have 
prospered  so  much  in  the  past  as  dairymen,  and  while  their  duties  are 
numerous,  and  every  penny  of  profit  is  well  earned,  the  labors  of  the 
dairymen  are  far  less  arduous  than  those  of  the  ordinary  farmer.  It 
is  well  known  that  the  dairy  farm  not  only  retains  its'fertilitv,  but 
continually  grows  richer,  so  that  there  is  indirect  as  well  as  "direct 
profit  derived.  In  short,  dairying  has  paid  well,  and  there  is  no  ques- 
tion about  its  future  profitableness.  The  past  year  has  been  an  ex- 
ceptional one.  Nearly  all  are  disposed  to  complain  who  have  patron- 
ized the  cheese  factory,  but  despite  all  the  unfavorable  circumstances 
surrounding  the  industry,  I  think  it  can  be  proven  that  even  this  year 
dairying  has  been  as  profitable  as  any  other  branch  of  farm  husbandrv. 
Without  admitting  that  the  dull  condition  of  the  cheese  trade  is 
attributed  to  the  general  dullness  of  commerce,  "\ve  may  contrast  it 
with  the.  position  of  grain  and  fruit  production  upon  that  basis,  and 
Ave  find  a  large  difference  in  favor  of  dairying.  How  then  would  the 
interest  have  stood  had  it  not  been  choked  and  hampered  on  every  side 
with  worthless  products?  It  would  stand  out  boldly  and  promiuentlv 
as  the  greatest  of  all  agricultural  interests,  as  I  believe  it  to  be  naturally'. 
Ladies  and  gentlemen,  there  never  was,  and  never  will  be  a  more  noble, 
pure  and  natural  Avork  for  man  than  this.  From  the  first  creation  to 
the  present  time,  in  all  ages,  and  in  almost  CAery  clime,  herding  and 
dairying  have  been  regarded  as  the  purest  of  all  occupations.  It  is  a 
Avork  in  Avhicli  any  one  may  take  pride !  It  is  a  Avork  that  elevates 
man's  nature,  and  purifies  his  life.  There  is  not  a  class  of  men  of 
better  morals  than  the  dairyman,  notwithstanding  that  noAv  and  then 
one  is  found  guilty  of  Avatering  his  milk,  and  other  disreputable  prac- 
tices. That  is  but  the  human  part  of  his  nature  predominating,  and 
proves  only  that  there  are  bad  men  in  very  calling.  I  have  never  seen 
but  two  intoxicated  cheese  fiictorymen,  and  I  haA^e  yet  to  see  a  drunken 
dairyman  :  though  there  may  be  some.  But  dairying  is  a  noble  call- 
ing, and  it  must  grow  in  importance  just  as  surely  as  the  seasons 
come  and  go.  We  have  only  to  guard  against  all  practices  that  are 
calculated  to  injure  the  trade,  anu  Avith  all  our  might  strive  to  elevate 
the  average  quality  of  the  goods  we  produce. 

I  say,  then,  that  dairying  Avillpay,  and  that  if  properly  conducted,  it 
will  pay  better  than  any  other  branch  of  farming. 

HOW    CAN    DAIRYING    BK    MADE    MORE    PROFITABLE  ?     • 

The  question  that  will  next  arise,  is  :  "Hoav  can  we  make  it  pay  ?" 
I  have  partly  ansAvered  already,  in  urging  the  production  of  prime 
goods.  This  point  cannot  be  too  strongly  urged.  Upon  it  depends  our 
success.  The  man  who  makes  a  first  ([uality  of  either  cheese  or  butter 
Avill  make  money,  Avhen  he  who  produces  a  poor  article,  loses.  Let  this 
be  always  borne  in  mind.  If  the  one  can  succeed  by  producing  a  ])rinie 
article,  may  not  all  ?  I  believe  that  if  you  will  look  OA'cr  you  reports  for 
tlie  past  eleven  years,  or  as  far  back  as  you  can  go,  you  Avill  find  that  in 
every  convention  some  one  has  made  the  remark  that  "there  never 


was  an  over  supply  of  first  quality  cheese  or  butter."  I  will  say  the  same 
thing  again  ;  and  farther,  that  there  never  will  be.  I  have  every  con- 
fidence in  the  future  success  of  dairying,  and  would  say  to  every  man 
who  feels  discouraged,  "  Stick  to  it, — make  a  good  article, — a  pure  arti- 
cle,— a  genuine  article,  and  discourage  every  effort  on  the  part  of 
others  to  the  contrary.  Take  care  of  the  industry,  and  it  will  take  care 
of  you  and  your  children."  Amongst  other  things,  to  take  care  of  your 
cows  is  most  important,  and  I  still  recommend  the  utmost  degree  of 
kindness,  notwithstanding  the  experience  of  the  gentleman  mentioned 
in  the  Vicksburg  Herald  recently  : 

A  farmer  living  just  out  of  Vicksburg  was  reading  in  an  agriculural 
paper  the  other  day,  an  article  headed,  "  Be  Kind  to  Your  Cow."  He 
went  out  to  milk  with  a  heart  full  of  kindness,  and  as  he  sat  down  he 
whispered:  "  So,  boss — stand  round — good  creature — hoist  a  little — 
there,  you  intelligent,  kind-hearted  old  bossy."  About  two  minutes 
after  that,  his  wife  heard  him  yelling  and  whooping,  and  as  she  ran  to 
the  door,  he  called  out :  "  Bring  me  the  axe,  Maria,  and  the  spade,  and 
tliat  big  club  there,  and  the  butcher  knife,  and  that  shot  gnu,  for  111 
be  darned  if  this  old  hellion,  shall  ever  live  to  kick  me  in  the  jaws 
again." 

HOME    CONSUMPTION — FUTURE    GROWTH    OF    THE    INTEREST. 

There  is  no  doubt  whatever,  but  what  cheese  will  become  more  and 
more  popular  as  each  year  comes  and  goes,  as  an  article  of  food,  pro- 
viding always,  that  we  make  a  good  article.  There  is  more  being 
used  at  home  each  year.  There  should,  of  course,  be  some  increase  to 
keep  pace  with  the  growth  of  population,  but  I  believe  more  cheese  is 
being  used  per  capita.  And  here  is  our  strong  point.  This  is  what 
we  should  work  upon,  and  use  extraordinary  means  to  accomplish  the 
popularization  of  cheese  in  this  country.  This  is  our  natural  market. 
If  we  ate  half  as  much  as  the  English  people  do  in  proportion  to  their 
population,  the  production  in  this  country  would  not  be  half  sufficient 
to  supply  our  own  wants.  This  very  matter,  home  consumption,  de- 
serves our  most  careful  consideration.  Cannot  Lhis  Association,  and 
the  other  Asssciations  that  have  done  so  much  to  advance  the  practice 
of  dairying,  do  something  to  promote  an  increased  home  consumption 
of  cheese  ?  Thus  far  it  would  seem  as  if  we  had  tried  to  retard  the 
home  demand,  inasmuch  as  Ave  have  generally  given  the  American 
consumer  our  poorest  cheese,  and  now  force  him  to  pay  4  to  G  and  10 
cents  per  pound  profit  upon  it,  to  the  retailer,  often  one  hundred  per 
cent,  more  than  the  factoryman  receives  for  it.  The  best  cheese 
made  in  America  to-day,  are  bought  tor  the  English  markets  before 
they  leave  the  shelves  of  the  factory.  Do  not  our  people  know  what 
a  good  article  is  V  I  believe  they  do,  but  they  are  too  often  deprived 
of  the  opportunity  to  procure  it.  Two  years  ago  the  Hon.  John 
Shattuck,  of  Norwich,  I  believe,  stated  in  this  Convention  that  he 
had  sold  all  his  cheese  at  home,  which  is  right  in  the  heart  of  the  dairy 
region,  for  more  than  it  would  have  brought  in  New  York,  and  I 
know  lie  made  a  prime  article.  Now  while  all  factorymen  could  not 
do  anything  like  this,  they  can  yet  make  such  a  cheese  as  will  induce 
people  to  buy  the  second  time,  and  thus  help  build  up  this  desirable 


89 

ti'ade..  We  make  possibly  200,000,000  pounds  of  cheese  per  year, 
which  is  equal  to  five  pounds  for  one  year  for  each  inhabitant,  but  we 
ship  to  Englandone-haif  of  this  amount,  while  she  has  but  half  our  pop- 
ulation, and  produces  and  receives  from  Canada  probably  half  as  much 
more  cheese. 

Five  pounds  of  cheese  per  year,  or  60  cents  worth  ?  Why  we  ought 
to  eat  more  than  that  in  a  month,  and  we  would  if  our  people  knew 
the  value  of  the  article.  We  are  the  greatest  butter  eaters  in  the  world. 
My  friend  Prof.  Willard  says  we  eat  somewhere  about  1,300,000,000 
pounds  of  butter  per  annum.  We  therefore  certainly  apjjreciate 
that  article  sufficiently,  and  why  should  we  not  know  the  value  of 
cheese?  I  believe  in  sustaining  our  export  business,  and  in  extending 
it  wherever  possible.  I  would  be  glad  if  we  shipped  200,000,000 
pounds  of  cheese  to  England  per  annum,  and  the  time  will  come  when 
wo  will  do  it.  We  should  do  everything  possible  to  please  our  cus- 
tomers in  Great  Britain.  We  should  give  them  the  best  article  possi- 
ble, and  by  doing  this  we  will  drive  out  all  competition  from  other 
countries.  We  cannot  make  a  cheese  too  good  for  our  English 
cousins.  They  would  as  soon  pay  us  80  as  well  as  oG  shillings,  if  the 
article  is  worth  the  money.  But  we  owe  it  to  ourselves  to  cater  to  the 
home  demand  also.  We  know  that  for  the  present  our  facilities  for 
making  cheese  and  butter  are  practically  unlimited  as  far  as  quantity 
is  concerned.  Twenty-five  years  from  now  we  shall  make  500,000,000 
pounds  of  cheese  per  annum.  I  believe  we  will  make  one-third  to 
one-half  more  upon  the  territory  now  in  use,  by  feeding  more  grain, 
and  increasing  the  grass-growing  capacity  of  our  lands.  We  are  prac- 
tically just  commencing  the  business,  and  judging  from  the  manner 
in  which  we  have  neglected  the  interest,  we  have  much  to  learn. 

DIVERSIFIED    PRODUCTIOX. 

As  we  progress,  we  Avill  naturally  take  advantage  of  every  opportu- 
nity to  increase  the  profits  of  our  business.  Instead  of  making  all  fiat 
or  high  cheese,  we  may  discover  that  small,  8  or  10  pound  ones,  ])ay 
well.  In  England  the  Stilton  made  in  this  shape,  and  of  very  fine 
quality,  has  a  large  demand,  and  brings  nearly  or  finite  double  the 
price  of  ordinary  cheese.  Last  year  an  enterprising  gentleman  had  a 
hivgii  quantity  of  these  small  cheese  made  near  Arcade,  in  this  State, 
whicli  he  designed  lor  the  English  market,  after  putting  them  through 
a  process  of  moulding.  I  have  no  doubt  but  that  he  did  well  on  the 
venture.  The  trouble  thus  far  has  been,  that  the  small  cheese  we  have 
generally  made,  were  poor.  Now  the  very  best  should  be  the  rule, 
and  I  believe  that  that  quality  in  small  sizes,  would  find  a  large  and 
growing  sale  at  home. 

I  have  already  spoken  of  the  prime  impoi'tancc  ot  experienced  and 
thoroughly  capable  workmen  in  a  cheese  factory,  and  of  the  necessity 
of^  far  better  curing  houses  than  the  average  of  those  now  in  use.  I 
might  go  on  and  speak  of  the  value  of  good  pasture,  good  feed  and 
good  water,  and  their  product,  good  milk,  in  making  cheese,  but  other 
speakers  have  doubtless  ventilated  these  subjects  ably  and  thoroughly, 
and  if  not,  they  will  do  so  before  the  Convention  is  over.  They  are 
just  as  essential  as  the  sun  is  to  our  life  and  health,  and  I  hope  you* 
all  appreciate  it,  and  the  other  fact,  that  cleanliness  is  next  to  godli- 
7 


90 

ness,  considering  that  we  are  to  increase  our  home  trade,  and  very 
material]}^  and  that  England  in.  a  very  few  years  will  take  all  her 
cheese  from  us,  land  being  so  high  there  that  it  does  not  pay  to  dairy, 
we  must  do  everything  in  our  power  to  make  first  class  goods,  and  we 
must  learn  to  make  our  cheese  so  that  it  will  be  better  at  the  end  of  a 
year  than  when  30  days  old,  instead  of  as  now,  strong  enough  to  walk, 
unless  sold  before  it  is  out  of  the  press.  The  ([uickness  with  which 
cheese  are  worked  up  and  the  corn  crib  curing  houses,  have  much 
more  to  do  with  their  getting  sharp,  than  our  climate,  to  which  we 
are  apt  to  blame  everything  that  is  wrong  with  our  cheese. 

PUBLIC    TASTE   MORE    SENSITIVE. 

Public  taste  becomes  more  and  more  sensitive  and  refined  each  year. 
The  people  require  better  food  than  in  the  years  gone  by,  and  we  must 
cater  to  this  improved  taste  if  we  would  succeed.  This  the  dairymen 
are  fully  competent  to  do,  despite  the  bad  practices  of  which  we  com- 
plain. Dairymen  as  a  class,  excel  all  others  in  enterprise  and  intelli- 
gence. No  class  of  men  devote  more  earnest  thought  to  their  voca- 
tion, or  study  more  carefully  the  requirements  of  their  calling. 
Imbued  with  superior  intelligence  as  a  class,  they  are  capable  of  prop- 
erly and  successfully  conducting  this  great  enterprise,  and  only  need 
such  hints  as  the  experience  and  observation  that  those  who  study  th*e 
commercial  phases  of  the  trade  may  be  able  to  give,  to  induce  the 
abolishment  of  all  injurious  practices,  and  encourage  greater  excellence. 

THE    CREAMERY    SYSTEM. 

A  few  words  with  reference  to  the  creamery  system,  and  I  have 
done.  Butter  creameries  have  become  a  fixed  fact.  They  are  as 
necessary  almost  as  cheese  factories.  The  very  best  butter  that  is  pro- 
duced comes  from  these  institutions,  though  it  may  be  claimed  by 
some  that  there  are  private  dairies  not  to  l-e  equalled.  Still  I  maintain 
that  the  best  average  butter  made  is  produced  in  the  creamery.  Each 
year  will  the  creamery  system  become  more  popular,  and  it  is  pre- 
dicted by  some,  that  in  a  few  years  the  creamery  will  be  to  butter 
making,  wdiat  the  factory  has  been  to  cheese  production,  or  in  other 
words,  that  they  will  supersede  the  private  dairy.  It  is  safe  to  say 
that  creamery  Ijutter  averages  10  cents  per  pound  higher  the  year 
through,  than  dairy  packed.  The  dairymen  then  suffer  a  severe  loss. 
If  there  are  1,000,000,000  pounds  of  butter  produced  per  annum,  and 
one-fourth  of  it  could  be  made  worth  10  cents  per  pound  more  than  it 
is  now,  we  have  125,000,000  of  a  loss  to  the  dairymen  per  annum,  and 
a  like  loss  to  the  consumer,  who  would  prefer  this  kind  of  butter. 
Butter  is  always  best  when  fresh,  however  good  we  may  keep  it,  and 
some  day  we  will  hardly  know  what  easy  packed  butter  is.  Then 
winter  dairying  will  be  practiced,  as  in  the  northwest,  and  there  will 
be  no  necessity  for  preserving  butter.  Creameries  should  therefore  be 
encouraged  as  much  as  possible,  good  butter  being  a  most  important 
item  .to  us  all,  so  important  that  it  brings  a  better  average  price  m  the 
United  States  than  anywhere  else.  This  leads  next  to  a  word  about 
creamery  cheese.  I  should  be  very  glad  if  I  could  persuade  my  friends 
of  the  creamery,  to  leave  cheese  making  alone,  as  they  must  some  day 
do.     You  can  make  more  money  by  turning  your  skim  milk  into 


91 

pork,  and  if  you  do  not  learn  this,  yuu  will  have  to  throw  your  milk 
away,  as  tliere  will  eventually.be  no  market  for  the  kind  of  cheese  you 
make.  They  have  already  depreciated  about  30  per  cent,  for  last 
3''ears'  prices,  but  pork  will  always  be  wanted.  Our  exports  are  enor- 
mous. In  November  they  footed  up  37,000,000  lbs.,  valued  at  $4,700,- 
000.  And  you  can  make  more  money  from  pork.  The  most  success- 
ful creamery  butter  maker  in  the  world  has  never  made  a  pound  of 
cheese,  but  turns  all  his  milk  into  pork.  This  is  your  course  for 
profit.  It  will  benefit  you,  and  prove  vastly  beneficial  to  the  cause  of 
legitimate  dairying. 

I  am  favored  with  the  following  statistics  of  the  exports  of  pork, 
bacon,  hams  and  lard,  by  the  efficient  and  gentlemanly  Secretary  of 
the  'Ne\v  York  Produce  Exchange,  Hon.  S.  H.  Grant,  which  of  them- 
selves are  the  very  strongest  argument  that  could  be  made  in  favor  of 
hog  production. 

In  1867,  the  exports  of  pork  aggregated  -27,495,637  lbs.  In  1874, 
60,643,448,  an  increase  of  33,147,811  lbs.  in  eight  years,  or  8  per 
cent.  In  1867,  the  exports  of  bacon  and  hams  footed  up  38,104,0!)S  ; 
in  1874,  307,755,484  lbs.,  an  increase  of  369,651,346  lbs.  in  the  same 
time.  In  1867  the  exports  of  lard  were  66,015,880  lbs.;  in  1874,  178,- 
034,459,  an  increase  of  113,018,579.  The  total  exports  of  the  four  ar- 
ticles in  1867.  were  131,615,615  lbs.;  in  1874,  546,433,391  lbs.,  a  grand 
increase  of  404,817,676  lbs.  At  an  average  of  13  cents  per  pound, 
probably  a  low  estimate,  their  value  in  1874,  was  $65,740,006.  This 
is  without  considering  the  large  amount  of  the  hog  product  used  at 
home.  lu  producing  pork  we  have  a  great  advantage  over  cheese  in 
the  matter  of  an  outlet.  While  England  is  almost  our  sole  customer 
for  cheese,  some  portion  of  the  hog  finds  a  demand  in  almost  every 
country,  (lermany  being  an  extensive  one  for  lard. 

I  have  frequently  referred  to  the  eminent  success  of  Messrs.  Boies 
&  Son,  of  Marengo,  111.  It  has  been  as  marvelous  as  it  has  been  de- 
served. As  practical  results  are  the  true  test  of  merit,  and  Messrs. 
Boies  &  Son  conduct  their  business  upon  such  exact  principles,  I 
feel  that  a  knowledge  of  their  experience  must  be  valuable  to  all.  I 
therefore  give  you  the  following  extracts  from  a  letter  I  have  from 
them,  dated  January  3  : 

In  July  1873,  we  bought  10  store  hogs  and  put  them  in  our  pen. 
They  were  fair,  nothing  more.     We  fed  them — 

42i  bushels  of  com  at  56  cts.  per  bushel $23  60 

9,50011)8.  skimmed  milk  at  20  cts.  per  100 19  00 

Total $42  60 

The  10  hogs  gained  in  weight  975  lbs.,  which  at  6  cts.  per  lb.      58  50 

Profit,  besides  getting  paid  for  the  skimmed  milk $15  90 

You  will  readily  perceive  that  in  point  of  profit,  this  was  better 
than  skimmed  cheese.  The  cut  made  in  this  way  is  choice,  while 
cheese  made  from  full  skimmed  milk  is  only  fit  to  throw  at  ugly 
dogs. 

I.  n.  Wauzer,  of  I^lgin,  (who  is  one  of  the  lai-gest  manufacturers  of 
butter  in  the  West,  and  whom  I  believe  made  skimmed  cheese  until 
recently,)  has  been   experimenting  this  fall  and  winter  with  pigs  and 


92 

calves.  He  says  either  pays  far  better  than  putting  the  milk  into 
cheese  ;  calves  paid  double,  counting  the  labor  the  same,  and  the  labor 
is  four  times  as  great  in  making  cheese.  ' 

I  will  now  give  you  the  product  of  our  dairy  from  October  Tth,  1874, 
to  October  7th,  1875,  average  yield  per  cow  of  395  lbs.  of  milk;  aver- 
age amount  of  milk  to  pound  of  butter,  23|^  lbs. ;  average  price  of  but- 
ter for  whole  year,  38  cts.  per  lb.  Value  of  sour  milk  fed  to  hogs,  20 
cts.  per  100  lbs.,  and  but  for  the  hog  cholera  in  our  stock,  it  would 
have  been  35  cts. 

At  the  close  of  Mr.  lieall's  paper,  the  Centennial  discussion  was 
oj)ened. 

Prof.  E.  W.  Stewart  moved  that  each  patron  of  cheese  Victories  be 
asked  to  contribute  one  cent  for  each  cow  owned  by  him.     Carried. 

J.  V.  H.  Scoville,  Chairman  of  the  Committee,  read  encouraging 
letters  from  Governor  Hawley,  of  the  Centennial  Committee,  and 
Lawrence  Lewis,  of  Utica. 

J,  H.  Eeall  announced  the  following  resolution  passed  by  the  Phila-~ 
deli^hia  Produce  Exchange : 

To  the  American  Dairymen^ s  Association  : 

At  a  meeting  of  the  Philadelphia  Produce  Exchange,  held  Jan. 
3d,  1876,  it  was,  upon  motion  of  Mr.  J.  H.  Reall, 

Resolved,  That  the  Produce  Exchange  of  Philadelphia,  in  hearty 
sympathy  with  the  objects  of  the  American  Dairymen's  Association  of 
the  United  States,  and  the  iSTational  Butter  and  Egg  Association,  cor- 
dially invites  said  Associations  to  hold  meetings  in  Philadelphia 
during  the  International  Exlnbition,  and  tenders  them  the  use  of  their 
rooms,  and  such  other  accommodations  as  may  be  in  their  power  to 
give.  Aetemas  Ward,  Secretary. 

Mr.  Eeall  then,  in  behalf  of  the  Exchange,  tendered  the  compli- 
ments of  the  Exchange,  and  invited  the  American  Dairymen's  Asso- 
ciation to  meet  in  the  rooms  of  the  Exchange  in  October  next,  during 
the  Special  Grand  Display  of  Dairy  products,  then  to  be  held ; 

Thereupon,  Mr.  Arnold  offered  the  following  resolution : 

Resolved,  That  the  thanks  of  this  Association  are  due  to  the  Phila- 
delphia Produce  Exchange  for  the  compliment  of  their  invitation  to 
hold  a  special  session  in  their  rooms  at  the  time  of  the  grand  opening 
display  of  Dairy  products  in  October  next,  and  that  the  invitation  be 
accepted.     Carried  unanimously. 

A  programme  is  to  be  arranged  for  the  occasion,  and  the  recognized 
authorities  in  Dairy  matters,  both  in  this  country  and  Europe,  invited 
to  participate. 

THIED  DAY. 

Upon  re-assembling  Thursday  morning.  Col.  0.  C.  Crocker,  of 
Binghamton,  offered  the  following  resolution  : 

Resolved,  That  the  American  Dairymen's  Association  emphatically 
condemn  tlie  adulteration  of  both  butter  and  cheese,  either  by  coloring 
or  skimming,  it  being  considered  by  the  association  detrimental  to 
the  interest  of  the  dairyman  both  at  home  and  abroad. 


93 

Robert  McAdam,  of  Oneida — This  convention  sliould  hesitate  before 
indorsing  the  proposed  action  in  relation  to  coloring  butter  and  cheese. 
Coloring  is  not  an  adulteration. 

Henry  Stewart,  of  New  York — The  shop-keepers  of  New  York  will 
not  buy  uncolored  cheese,  and  it  would  not  sell. 

Mr.  Gillett,  of  Delaware  county — One  season  my  factory  refrained 
from  coloring,  and  we  concluded  from  the  experience  that  it  did  not 
pay  t(^  do  so. 

On  motion  of  Mr.  Wetherell,  of  Bost^on,  the  resolution  was  amended 
by  striking  out  the  conclusion  of  the  resolution  beginning  with  the 
words,  "  either  by  coloring  or  skimming."'  As  thus  amended  it  was 
adopted. 

Prof.  W.  P.  Peck,  of  Chester  county,  Pa. — Chester  county  is  largely 
devoted  to  the  manufacture  of  butter.  We  use  what  are  called  "spring 
houses,"  built  over  springs  from  which  water  may  be  discharged  into 
the  house.  The  product  is  shipped  to  market  as  soon  as  it  is  made. 
The  butter  is  packed  in  layers  with  a  slab  lietween  each  layer.  The 
packs  are  folded  in  muslin.  It  is  not  easy  to  tell  whether  the  butter 
is  made  by  cleanly  methods  or  not.  Hence  confidence  Jn  the  maker 
is  important.  Pound  and  half  pound  prints  we  find  to  be  the  best 
I'orm  of  putting  up.  TJie  American  people  are  making  a  great  mis- 
take by  separating  the  fat  and  the  muscle-making  elements,  and  feed- 
ing the  former  to  our  children,  and  sending  the  latter  and  more  nutri- 
tious portion  to  England. 

T.  I).  Curtis  cited  Professor  Smith,  author  of  '•  Foods,"  as  authority 
for  the  assertion  that  caseine  is  extremely  indigestible,  and  skim  cheese 
should  be  condemned. 

L.  T.  Hawley,  of  Syracuse,  then  presented  the  following  resolution : 

Resolved,  That  this  association  recommends  the  organization  of 
county  and  town  associations — for  the  purpose  of  reaching  and 
educating  the  patrons  and  operatives  of  butter  and  cheese  factories  on 
the  importance  and  necessity  of  furnishing  a  prime  and  uniform 
(juality  of  milk,  if  they  would  be  able  to  send  to  market  a  prime  and 
uniform  quality  of  products  ;  and  that  these  associations  are  advised 
to  meet  as  often  as  once  a  month  for  consultation  and  discussion. 

In  connection  with  this'i'osolution,  Robert  McAdam  read  the  follow- 
ing paper: 

PLAIN  PRECEPTS  FOR  PATRONS  AND  CHEESE  MAKERS. 

BY    ROIiERT   m'aDAM,    ROME,    X.    Y. 

In  venturing  to  make  a  few  remarks  before  this  convention,  on  some 
practical  points  connected  Avith  cheese  making,  T  wish  to  be  under- 
stood as  appearing  as  a  practical  Cheese  Maker.  I  lay  no  claim  to 
being  a  scientist,  nor  a  profound  or  philosophic  theorist,  but  obser- 
vation, reflection,  and  common  sense,  are  the  simple  basis  of  the  re- 
marks I  have  to  offer.  It  will  readily  ])e  conceded  by  those  who  are 
competent  to  judge  of  the  (pudities  of  the  cheese  at  present  produced, 
that  there  is  yet  sufficient  scope  for  improvement,  also;  that  there  are 
certain  defects  which  characterize  American  cheese,  which  operate  to 
the  detriment  of  the  dairy  interest,  by  lowering  the  price  of  that  com- 


94 

modity  in  the  markets  of  the  world.  I  am  well  aware  that  great  pro- 
gress has  been  made,  in  improving  the  qualities  of  American  cheese, 
during  the  last  twenty  years ;  and  it  is  with  the  hope  of  aiding  in 
still  further  improvement,  that  I  presume  to  occupy  your  attention  for 
a  few  minutes.  Usually  it  is  a  good  rule  to  begin  at  the  beginning. 
Here  I  will  not  attempt  to  follow,  up  to  first  causes,  but  take  up  the 
subject  where  tangible  causes  of  evil  can  be  readily  controlled,  viz., 
when  the  milk  is  taken  from  the  cows;  and  here  I  will  premise,  that 
wherever  cows  are  properly  cared  for  and  milked  every  twelve 
hours,  there  is  nothing  in  the  milk  to  prevent  it  being  made  into  fine 
cheese.  So-called  "animal  odors  "  does  not  affect  the  flavor  of  cheese, 
even  if  coagulated  immediately  after  milking,  (keeping  milk  at  a 
high  temperature,  9C°  to  98°,  for  even  two  hours,  will  do  so,)  but  it  is 
the  subsequent  treatment  of  milk  by  the  patrons,  and  the  skillful  or 
unskillful  handling  of  it,  during  the  process  of  manufacturing,  which 
makes  or  mars  the  quality  of  onr  factory  cheese.  The  causes  which  I 
will  now  indicate  are  not  far  to  seek,  nor  difiicult  to  find,  but  are  by 
no  means  easily  rectified,  for  they  are  in  a  great  degree  in  the  hands 
of  our  cheese  factory  patrons,  and  only  a  small  percentage  of  these 
take  sufficient  interest  in  the  matter,  or  are  willing  to  co-operate  with 
the  cheese  maker,  so  far  as  to  ensure  the  desired  results ;  and  experi- 
ence teaches  me,  very  distinctly,  that  the  patrons  can,  by  proper  feed- 
ing, care,  and  cleanliness,  remove  most  of  the  obstacles  which  operate 
to  prevent  the  production  of  an  article  which  will  more  nearly 
approach,  or  rival,  the  finest  English  cheese.  The  fine  cheese  of  Eng- 
land are  made  from  milk  which  has  been  produced  from  healthy  cows, 
fed  on  good  herbage,  the  milk  having  been  properly  cared  for  in  every 
respect,  with  the  most  scrupulous  cleanliness ;  but  here  in  America, 
under  the  factory  system,  care  and  cleanliness  about  milk,  is  a  lost 
art,  or  rather,  an  art  that  has  never  been  acquired  by  many  cheese 
factory  patrons.  I  know  many  will  say,  "  The  Cheese  Maker  "  ought 
to  see  to  all  these  things.  I  answer,  the  thing  is  impossible.  Can  he 
every  night  and  morning,  inspect  the  milking  pails  and  milk  pans, 
and  milker's  hands,  or  can  he  see  that  no  green  or  gargetted  milk  is 
sent  to  the  factory,  or  see  whether  the  cows  were  hurried  home  with  a 
dog,  blown  and  sweltering  with  heat,  or  can  he  see  how  many  cows 
were  left  un milked  over  night,  and  their  half  putrid  messes  sent  to 
the  factory  in  the  morning,  to  operate  like  yeast  on  the  well-kept 
messes  of  careful  patrons  ?  Or  can  the  cheese  maker  prevent  patrons 
from  detaining  their  milk  at  home  after  milking  is  finished,  or  from 
lingering  to  gossip  on  the  way,  and  then  racing  to  the  factory,  with 
the  hot  milk  closed  up  in  the  cans,  advancing  rapidly  to  putrefaction  ? 
Another  very  injurious  practice  is  mixing  the  morning  and  evening 
messes,  thereby  promoting  very  pernicious  eflFects,  and  depriving  the 
maker,  in  a  great  measure,  of  his  power  to  discover  fraud.  These  are 
causes  that  the  cheese  maker  cannot  control,  and  it  is  these  which 
bafde  the  skill,  and  frustrate  the  efforts  of  the  most  competent  cheese 
makers,  and  these  are  the  greatest  causes  of  inferior  cheese.  But 
besides,  the  cheese  maker  has  a  continual  war  to  wage  against  sloven- 
liness. He  may  even  furnish  the  patrons  with  strainers,  and  orators 
to  cool  their  milk,  but  cannot  make  them  use  them,  for  in  the  factory 
strainers  are  found  leaves,  seeds,  hairs,  feathers,  scabs,  clots  of   blood, 


95 

bugs,  beetles,  cow  manure,  fowl  manure,  ilies,  spiders,  worms,  snails 
and  lizards,  which  speak  volumes  about  the  care  and  cleanliness  of 
these  cheese  factory  patrons.  It  surpasses  belief  to  narrate  the  igiio- 
rance  and  carelessness  manifested  by  many  patrons,  about  this  their 
most  valuable  product.  It  is  evident  that  they  have  but  only  one 
concern  about  their  milk,  viz.,  that  it  should  "  Aveigh  well."  They 
think  the  cheese  maker  should  accomplish  whatever  else  is  needed  to 
make  fine  cheese.  These  causes,  gentlemen,  are  also  frequent  and  po- 
tent causes  of  inferior  cheese,  and  if  this  Convention  can  suggest,  or 
adopt  means  which  will  pervade,  indoctrinate  and  leaven  the  minds  of 
our  cheese  factory  jiatrons  with  a  proper  sense  of  their  duty  and  inter- 
est in  this  matter,  the  remaining  causes  of  inferiority  can,  and  will  be 
overcome.  As  these  remaining  causes  of  inferior  cheese  lie  with 
the  cheese  maker,  I  now  solicit  their  attention.  Every  cheese  maker 
knows,  or  ought  to  know,  that  the  proper  condition  of  milk  which  he 
receives  to  manufacture,  is  the  most  essential  requisite  to  his  success 
in  producmg  fine  cheese,  and  every  cheese  maker  who  understands 
his  business,  and  means  to  do  his  duty,  will  not  fail  to  exert  himself 
to  secure  that  end,  as  far  as  possible.  I  will  not  delay,  to  describe  any 
process  of  manipulation,  nor  extol  one  mode  of  setting,  heating,  cut- 
ting, stirring,  grinding  or  pressing,  over  another,  for  these  are  only 
secondary  considerations,  but  it  is  essential  that  every  cheese  maker 
should  be  cleanly  himself,  and  keep  every  implement  and  utensil  used, 
thoroughly  clean,  and  every  act  performed,  should  be  done  cleanly 
and  neatly.  The  art  of  cutting  and  breaking  up  the  curd,  after  coagu- 
lation, ought  to  be  performed  very  gently  aud  carefully,  and  the  suc- 
ceeding warming  up,  still  more  so,  for  one  great  cause  of  cheese  get- 
ting strong  flavored,  arises  from  rapid  and  incautious  heating  up.  By 
this,  a  portion  of  the  butter  becomes  liberated,  or  separated  from  the 
casein e,  and  forms  an  oil  which  pervades  the  whole  mass  of  curd,  and 
as  it,  (the  oil.)  does  not  take  salt  to  cure  it,  as  the  curd  does,  it  quickh' 
becomes  rancid,  and  induces  putrefactive  decay.  Another  source  of 
evil,  is  the  cream  which  rises.  This  should  either  be  carefully  skimmed 
oflf  and  passed  through  the  strainer  with  the  warm  milk,  or  gently 
heated  up  to  08,  and  completely  mixed  again  with  the  milk  just  before 
the  rennet  is  added.  Another  error,  is  putting  the  curd  into  the 
press  at  too  high  a  temperature.  This  assists  early  curing,  but  also 
promotes  early  decay,  and  keeping  cheese  at  a  high  temperature, 
whilst  in  the  curing  room,  tends  also  to  impair  their  keeping  qualities, 
and  the  want  of  keeping  qualities  in  American  cheese,  is  now  their 
greatest  drawback  in  the  English  markets  ;  but  as  the  proper  devel- 
ment  of  acid  wipes  out  the  old  porousness  of  American  cheese,  and 
gives  the  desired  solidity,  so  the  *•  Proper  Condition  of  the  Milk,''  and 
skillful  handling  of  it,  may  yet  give  the  desired  pure  and  permanent 
flavor.  To  a  cheese  buyer  who  weekly  examines  a  great  many  factories, 
it  is  evident  that  that  there  are  many  makers  who  are  ([uite  incompe- 
tent to  .manage  a  cheese  factory  :  indeed,  many  of  them  have  no 
proper  idea  of  what  cleanliness  really  is,  and  it  is  often  disgusting  to 
look  upon  the  slovenliness  and  filth  surrounding  both  milk  and 
cheese.  iSwarms  of  flies,  enticed  by  the  foulness,  infest  the  cheese,  and 
numbers  of  them,  dead  and  dro".vning,  are  floating  in  the  cheese  vats 
during  the  heating  up  process,  and  it  seems  as  if  everything  around 


96 

was  specially  adapted  to  favor  absorption  by  the  milk  of  these  foul 
odors ;  and  it  is  no  unusual  thing  to  find  the  cheese  maker  equally 
untidy  in  his  own  person,  with  a  black  pipe  in  his  mouth,  and  a  rake, 
(miserable  tool,)  in  his  hand,  warming  up  a  vat  of  curd,  his  mind 
evidently  more  engrossed  with  the  going  of  his  pipe,  than  with  care  of 
the  precious  contents  committed  to  his  care.  I  dare  not  express,  what 
I  have  often  felt  on  occasions  such  as  I  now  relate,  but  I  will  say, 
that  such  persons  are  no  more  fitted  for  the  place  they  fill,  than 
for  the  office  of  Chief  Justice  of  the  United  States — they  would  be 
in  a  more  jjroper  sphere  shoveling  manure  out  of  a  barnyard ;  and 
cheese  factory  patrons  neglect  their  own  interest,  when  they  do  not 
make  certain  that  careful  and  competent  makers  are  to  manage  their 
factories.  Many  persons  fancy  that  a  few  months  working  in  a  factory 
is  sufficient  to  acquire  all  the  knowledge  that  is  necessary.  Such  a 
notion  is  simply  a  delusion.  It  would  be  infinitely  better  for  a  beginner 
to  work  in  a  first  class  factory  for  a  season  or  two  for  nothing  more 
than  instruction,  rather  than  undertake  the  responsibility  without  a 
competent  knowledge  of  it.  Indeed,  our  best  factories  ought  to  be- 
come schools  of  instruction,  and  I  may  state  that  after  J  had  worked 
fifteen  years  at  cheese  making,  it  cost  me  $1:^5  gold  for  a  few  lessons, 
and  twenty  years  after  I  now  say  that  the  money  was  well  spent.  And 
here,  I  now  advise  cheese  makers  to  look  for  the  causes  of  their 
troubles  where  I  have  indicated,  and  throw  mere  theories  to  the 
winds,  and  not  be  diverted  from  seeking  for  the  real,  by  imaginary 
evils.  It  is  pitiable,  as  well  as  amusing,  to  listen  to  the  fancied  causes 
of  inferior  cheese  which  have  been  discovered  by  cheese  makers  in 
distress.  One  discovers  it  is  the  south  wind — another  finds  it  is  the 
"  swale  grass" — another  discovers  that  it  is  "  stagnant  water" — another, 
that  a  "  Dead  Deacon ''  has  been  found  in  the  cow  pasture,  &c. ; 
and  I  will  add  another,  which  I  think  is  just  as  likely  to  afi'ect 
the  quality  of  the  cheese  on  your  shelves,  viz :  "  A  damp  looking 
cheese  buyer  coming  into  your  cheese  rooms."  I  am  aware  that  some 
scientific  writers  claim  that  they  have  been  able  to  detect  the  germs  of 
putrefactive  fermentation  m  milk,  and  even  in  cheese,  which  had  been 
imbibed  by  cows  in  drinking  stagnant  water,  or  snified  in  at  the  nos- 
trils, from  carrion  in  the  pastures.  But  when  we  consider  the  com- 
plex and  wonderful  apparatus  provided  by  nature  to  purify  whatever 
animals  eat,  drink,  or  breathe,  and  the  process  v/hich  it  undergoes  be- 
fore passing  into  the  blood  or  milk,  I  must  be  excused  from  doubting 
whether  such  conclusions  are  correct,  for  if  these  germs  are  so  perni- 
cious in  the  milk  and  cheese,  would  not  they  have  operated  as  a  blood 
poison  in  the  animals  inhaling  or  drinking  them,  and  have  manifested 
their  vitalitity  by  disease  among  the  cows^?  But  we  are  not  left  to 
grope  in  the  regions  of  conjecture  on  this  point,  for  experience  demon- 
strates that  this  theory  will  not  stand  the  crucial  test ;  for  in  the 
County  of  Chester,  in  England,  there  are  over  one  hundred  thousand 
cows  kept,  and  the  majority  of  these  cows  are  wholly  supplied  with 
water  from  stagnant  marl  pits,  and  yet  floating  curds  are  absolutely  un- 
known there,  and  during  eleven  years'  practice  there  and  fifteen  in 
Scotland,  I  made  cheese  in  over  one  hundred  places  ;  and  seven  years' 
practice  in  American  cheese  factories  has  convinced  me  that  causes 
which  operate  to  produce  certain  effects  in  England,  will  produce  like 


97 

effects  in  America,  under  similar  circumstances.  Science  up  to  this 
time  lias  done  little  or  nothing  to  aid  practical  cheese  makers.  They 
must  look  for  help  in  the  experience  and  practice  of  those  who  attain 
the  best  results,  and  if  the  worst  class  of  cheese  now  made  could  be 
elevated  to  equal  the  best,  the  best  would  undoubtedly  advance  nearer 
the  standard  of  fine  English  ;  and  it  is  by  still  further  copying  the 
Somersetshire  or  Cheddar  modes  of  practice,  and  keeping  our  m.ilk 
perfectly  pure,  that  we  can  hope  to  attain  that  degree  of  excellence  in 
our  cheese  which  will  entitle  it  to  be  classed  amongst  the  luxuries  of 
life.  The  extreme  susceptibility  of  milk  to  taints,  in  its  passage  from 
the  milking  pails  to  our  tables,  as  butter  and  cheese,  demands  the 
most  vigilant  care  and  cleanliness,  and  the  increased  liability  to  taints 
incident  to  the  factory  system  render  it  peculiarly  so,  and  neither 
patrons  nor  cheese  makers  are  fully  aware  of  the  bad  results  arising 
from  the  lack  of  these  virtues.  Thousands  of  American  cheese  at 
present,  lie  in  Glasgow,  Liverpool  and  London,  which  cannot  be  sold 
at  more  than  one-half  of  their  cost,  and  be  it  distinctly  understood 
that  these  cheese  were  bought  in  America  at  full  price.  But  lack  of 
keeping  qualities,  arising  from  improperly  kejDt  and  improperly  manu- 
factured milk,  have  been  their  bane,  and  the  only  antidote  to  be 
found,  is  greater  care  and  cleanliness  on  the  part  of  the  patrons,  and 
greater  care,  cleanliness  and  skill  on  the  part  of  the  makers.  These 
essentials  properly  applied,  will  produce  cheese  which  will  unite  the 
required  requisites  of  richness,  fine  flavor,  solidity,  and  keeping 
qualities. 

In  reply  to  a  question  he  continued — The  curd  should  not  be  pnt  to 
press  at  a  higher  temperature  than  75  degrees.  The  English  cheese 
makers  allow  the  best  quality  of  cheddar  cheese  to  lie  until  a  proper 
amount  of  acidity  is  developed  before  salting. 

Setli  Bonfoy — The  subject  of  cleanliness  has  been  before  the  Con- 
vention ever  since  I  have  known  it.  If  we  form  associations,  patrons 
will  say  "  This  does  not  mean  me,  it  means  some  one  else,"  and  they 
stay  away.  I  am  inclined  to  think  that  we  talk  too  much  and  act  too 
little.  The  proper  way  to  remedy  the  difficulty  is  to  set  away  impure 
milk  and  return  it  to  the  patron.  We  talk  too  much  in  a  general  way 
about  uncleanliness.  We  should  speak  with  definiteness.  Go  to  the 
patron  and  say  to  him  and  to  him  only,  *'  Thou  art  the  man.''  Then 
we  may  hope  for  better  results,  I  believe  uncleanliness  is  the  excep- 
tion rather  than  the  rule. 

Harris  Lewis — I  believe  it  is  the  rule  rather  than  the  exception,  I 
have  seen  milk  brought  into  one  of  the  best  factories  of  Herkimer, 
and  standing  by  the  strainer  have  seen  every  kind  of  filth  from  cow 
manure  in  the  lump  taken  out  of  the  milk. 

Mr.  Bonfoy — I  have  had  charge  of  a  number  of  factories  all  over  the 
State.  My  practice  has  been  that  when  a  patron  brought  bad  milk  to 
the  fiictory,  he  forfeited  it.  This  talk  about  education  of  patrons 
amounts  to  nothing,  if  we  do  not  put  that  education  into  practice,  and 
enforce  its  teachings. 

Harris  Lewis — Well,  you  seem  to  have  educated  them  pretty  well. 
The  resolution  offered  by  Mr.  Ilawley  was  then  adopted. 


98 


CONGIIATULA.TIOKS   PROM   CANADA. 


Mr.  0.  E.  Chadwiok,  of  Canada,  referred  to  the  fraternal  feeling  ex- 
isting between  the  Canadian  and-  the  American  dairymen,  and  lioped 
the  feeling  of  brotherly  love  would  grow\  He  paid  a  high  tribute  to  the 
learning,  intelligence  and  public  spirit  shown  by  the  members  of  the 
American  Dairymen's  Association,  and  the  great  benefit  derived  from 
their  meetings.  No  branch  of  agriculture  had  been  so  successful  in 
Canada  as  the  dairy  interest.  He  was  highly  gratified  to  see  the  pro- 
gress Americans  were  making  in  this  respect,  and  especially  their 
determination  to  stamp  out  skim  milk  cheese.  He  lioped  the  Ameri- 
cans would  aim  at  the  highest  and  best  quality  of  cheese,  and  no  other, 
at  whatever  cost  or  care.  The  John  Bull  taste  was  a  critical  one.  He 
must  have  cheese  to  suit  his  taste,  or  he  will  not  have  it  at  all.  Skim- 
ming milk  for  cheese  is  an  adulteration  that  should  not  be  tolerated. 
Gentlemen,  we  are  apt  scholars,  and  having  learned  much  from  you, 
may  learn  more.  We  may  get  into  making  skim  milk  cheese,  if  we 
find  it  profita])le,  but  I  do  not  believe  we  will.  He  then  proceeded  to 
read  a  paper,  read  at  the  eighth  annual  meeting  of  the  Dairymen's 
Association  of  Ontario.  It  treated  exhaustively  of  the  science  of  agri- 
culture, and  urged  the  necessity  of  the  intellectual  elevation  of  dairy- 
men. 

PROF.    E.    .J.    WICKSON. 

Professor  Arnold  ofiered  the  following  resolution  : 

Resolved,  That  we  recognize  the  efficiency  and  value  of  the  labors 
of  our  former  assistant  secretary,  Prof.  E.  J.  Wickson ;  in  his  with- 
drawal from  his  official  position,  this  association  has  lost  an  energetic, 
talented,  scientific  and  worthy  co-laborer,  and  that  we  most  cordially 
wish  him  health,  wealth  and  prosperity  in  his  new  field  of  labor  on  the 
Pacific  coast. 

Hon.  Harris  Lewis — Mr.  Chairman  :  I  second  that  resolution,  and 
in  seconding  it  I  will  say  that  during  my  intercourse  with  Prof,  Wick- 
son, I  never  knew  of  a  thing,  with  one  exception,  but  that  was 
straightforward.  He  was  a  very  worthy  and  intelligent  young  man  ; 
and  had  the  respect  and  good  will  of  all  the  people  in  this  dairy  region. 

Prof.  L.  Wetherell,  of  the  Boston  Cultivator — I  indorse  the' remarks 
of  Mr.  Lewis.  1  don't  know  of  any  one  whose  acquaintance  I  have 
made,  whom  I  esteem  more  than  Prof.  Wickson.  I  was  surprised 
when  I  learned  that  he  had  gone  to  the  Pacific  coast,  and  think  this 
locality  should  have  ofliered  him  some  inducements  sufficient  to  have 
him  remain.  In  regard  to  the  ITtica  Herald  in  our  community,  the 
State  of  Massachusetts,  the  Herald  is  looked  upon  as  one  of  the  best 
agricultural  papers  they  could  lay  their  hands  upon.  Not  that  it  is 
perfect  in  every  respect.  It  is  impossible  for  any  editor,  even  one  so 
talented  as  Prof.  Wickson,  to  make  a  perfect  newspaper.  But  he  was 
true,  honest,  earnest  and  devoted  to  his  calling,  and  well  qualified  to 
fill  the  place  he  occupied.  His  labors  were  appreciated  in  New  Eng- 
land, if  they  were  not  here.  I  consider  his  transfer  to  the  Pacific  coast 
a  gain  to  that  portion  of  the  country,. and  a  loss  to  this  community. 

0.  S.  Bliss,  of  Vermont — I  should  fail  to  discharge  my  duty  to  the 
people  of  Vermont  if  I  did  not  indorse  all  that  has  been  said  by  the 
gentlemen  preceding  me. 


99 

X.  A.  "Willard,  of  Herkimer — I  also  indorse  all  that  has  been  said. 

Chairman  Curtis — I  take  pleasure  in  offering  the  resolution  to  the 
house. 

The  resolution  Avas  unanimously  adopted. 

Hon.  Harris  Lewis — When  I  said  that  Prof.  Wickson  was  all  right 
with  one  exception,  I  should  have  said  that  exception  was  that  I  found 
that  he  had  a  little  bit  of  leaning  in  regard  to  oleomargarine  cheese. 
[Laughter.] 

J.  H.  Reall,  of  Philadelphia — I  would  say  to  show  how  we  estimate 
the  Utica  Herald,  that  it  was  and  continues  to  be  the  best  daily  paper 
in  the  United  States. 

Professor  L.  Wetherell — I  second  that.  It  continues  to  be  a  good 
agricultural  paper.  The  only  defect  I  found  with  it  was  this  :  It  was 
said  that  in  the  cheese  report  from  Little  Falls  the  Herald  quoted 
cheese  being  sold  at  so  much  a  pound,  and  perhaps  110  or  115  pounds 
of  cheese  were  given  for  100  pounds,  in  order  to  make  the  price  appear 
higher.  I  don't  know  anything  about  it  personally,  but  that  was  the 
opinion  that  prevailed  m  the  Boston  market.  If  that  is  so,  it  belongs 
to  the  same  list  of  acts  as  selling  oleomargarine  for  whole  milk  cheese. 
Therefore  I  don't  approve  of  it. 

THE    CENTENSriAL. 

J.  V.  H.  Scovill,  Chairman  of  the  Committee  on  the  Centennial, 
then  presented  the  report  of  the  Committee.  The  Committee  has 
chosen  Ex-Governor  Horatio  Seymour  for  its  Treasurer.  Mr.  Scovill 
announced  that  a  list  of  contributors  will  be  upon  the  ground  for  in- 
spection, and  made  no  recommendations  other  than  those  contained  in 
the  resolutions  of  Wednesday  evening. 

Mr.  Lewis  spoke,  exhorting  dairymen  to  see  to  it  that  the  contribu- 
tions be  adequate. 

J.  H.  Reall,  of  Philadelphia,  recommended  tliat  the  dairymen  for- 
mally announce  how  much^je?*  capita  may  be  contributed. 

Mr.  Avery,  of  Morrisville,  believed  the  project  to  raise  money  by  as- 
sessing each  patron  per  cow  would  not  succeed.  Money  should  be 
raised  in  the  Conventions. 

X.  A.  Willard  believed  that  there  would  be  a  large  demand  for  the 
Centennial  cheese,  and  that  it  would  be  well  to  brand  each  cheese. 

Mr.  Hawley,  of  Syracuse,  assured  the  Convention  that  the  salt  men 
would  not  be  backward  in  contributing  a  share  proportionate  to  the 
importance  of  the  salt  interest  in  the  manufacture  of  butter  and 
cheese. 

Henry  Stewart,  of  Xew  York,  alluded  to  the  value  of  the  exhibition 
as  an  advertising  agent. 

Horace  J.  Smith,  of  Philadelphia,  announced  that  the  cheese  will  be 
admitted  on  Wednesday  of  each  week  during  the  exliil)ition.  June 
'l^  and  October  17,  have  been  suggested  as  desirable  dates  for  special 
displays.  The  women  of  the  country  have  contributed  $30,000  for  the 
display  of  their  peculiar  handiwork.  It  is  estimated  that  the  least 
aggregate  of  visitors  at  the  exposition  will  be  six  millions.  There  will 
be,  however,  ample  accommodations. 

Mr.  McAdam  advocated  the  branding  of  cheese  .so  that  (he  prizes 
may  be  ftiirly  awarded. 


100 

Mr.  Willard  announced  that  500  cheese  would  be  sold  at  the  Cen- 
tennial, and  that  thei'e  was  every  inducement  for  dairymen  to  make 
their  best  product. 

Remarks  were  also  made  by  Prof.  E.  W.  Stewart,  L.  T.  Hawley,  L. 
Blanding,  Mr.  Ellison  and  others,  and  contributions  aggregating  about 
$810  were  received. 

AFTERNOOK   SEvSSION. 

The  proceedings  of  the  afternoon  session  were  opened  by  the  read-" 
ing  of  a  paper  upon  "  Dairy  Products  ;  Quality  versus  Quantity/'  by 
William  Jeffreys,  of  New  York. 

Its  author  being  absent,  the  paper  was  read  by  Secretary  Ai-nold. 
It  was  as  follows  : 

DAIEY  MANUFACTURING. 

QUALITY  VERSUS  QUANTITY. 

To  an  outsider,  it  would  seem  that  dairymen,  as  a  rule,  were  striving 
to  excel  in  the  quantity,  rather  than  in  the  quality  of  their  products. 
This  is  to  a  great  extent  the  case,  although  not  applicable  to  the  whole 
trade.  Many  of  the  manufacturers  of  butter  and  cheese  are  most  con- 
scientious in  the  care,  and  thoughtful  in  manipulating  the  product 
coming  from  their  hands,  and  the  degree  of  excellence  attained  by  the 
few,  is  directly  traceable  to  their  efforts  in  this  direction.  Probably 
one  of  the  mam  causes  which  has  led  to  the  production  of  so  many 
inferior  goods,  is  the  haste  and  confusion  incident  to  the  management 
of  large  dairies,  the  carelessness  of  hired  help,  and  the  absence  of  tbat 
careful  oversight  upon  the  part  of  dairymen  and  dairymaids,  which  in 
the  past,  was  the  distinguishing  feature  of  the  farm. 

Business  thus  left  tq  care  for  itself,  has  resulted  in  sadly  depreciating 
the  quality  of  our  production,  as  can  be  attested  by  tlie  purchasers, 
who  complain  bitterly  of  the  quality  of  the  bulk  of  the  butter  and 
cheese  produced  during  the  past  season. 

Exporters  also  re-affirm  these  complaints,  and  declare  that  their 
losses  the  past  year  simply  by  depreciation  in  quality,  have  more  than 
counterbalanced  their  entire  "profits  for  the  last  five  years.  This  grow- 
ing evil  therefore  should  be  remedied.  That  it  can  be,  is  what  we  pro- 
pose to  show,  and  the  application  should  at  once  be  the  subject  and 
study  of  every  one  pecuniarily  interested,  or  with  sufficient  pride  to 
rejoice  in  its  success.  Especially  must  attention  be  given  to  it,  if  we 
wish  to  preserve  and  increase  the  demand  for  our  products  at  home 
and  abroad. 

While  the  process  of  manufacturing  has  greatly  changed  within  the 
past  few  years,  and  to  the  advantage  of  the  dairymen, — as  where  pro- 
per care  and  skill  are  exercised,  a  decidedly  superior  article  to  that  for- 
merly made  in  the  same  section,  is  produced — yet  the  essential  featares 
preparatory  to  manufacturing  are  so  entirely  neglected,  that  with  the 
highest  degree  of  skill  possible,  it  weje  still  impossible  to  counteract 
the  evils  which  have  already  wrought  upon  the  delicate  material. 

As  well  might  the  weaver  with  broken  woof,  or  the  miller  with  rusty 
grain,  endeavor  to  produce  a  first-class  material,  as  the  cheese  or  butter 
maker  to  mauufacture  a  superior  article,  from  the  mass  of  filth  whicli 


101 

under  the  name  of  milk,  is  daily  carried  to  the  factories.  To  such  an 
extent  has  this  evil  grown,  that  rarely  does  the  maker  offer  any  remon- 
strance, but  accepts  the  mess,  carefully  allowing  full  weight,  no  matter 
how  much  sediment  remains  m  the  can,  and  regardless  of  the  condition 
of  his  strainer.  Many,  Avho  occasionally  oflfer  a  feeble  remonstrance, 
do  so  with  hesitancy,  for  fear  of  offending  a  heavy  patron,  and  thus 
diminishing  their  income  from  manufacturing.  The  result  of  all  this 
carelessness  is  easily  traced  to  the  product,  and  an  inspection  of  the 
cellar  or  the  curing  room,  reveals  its  fruits.  The  buj^er  in  his  visits 
to  factories  immediately  discovers  the  difiiculty,  and  quietly  mak  es  a 
note  of  the  facts.  Questions  as  to  the  cause  of  this  sour  vat  of  cheese, 
the  other  one  off  in  flavor,  the  lot  of  porous  spongy  floaters,  or  the 
cow  stable  flavor  of  the  butter,  are  all  answered  in  one  breath,  viz.: 
••  One  or  more  of  my  patrons  brought  a  mess  of  bad  milk,  and  as  they 
are  my  heaviest  patrons,  I  did  not  dare  to  send  it  back,"  thus  away 
goes  the  milk  into  the  vat,  and  out  comes  the  poor  product.  By  refer- 
iug  to  the  market  reports,  it  will  readily  be  seen  that  the  production 
of  a  first  class  article  commands  quicker  sales,  and  generally  more 
remunerative  prices,  than  does  inferior  goods,  although,  for  two  seasons 
past,  creamery  goods  seemed  to  meet  with  better  favor  relatively,  than 
full  cream  stock,  but  the  immense  production  stimulated  by  previous 
prosperous  seasons,  has  culminated  in  disastrous  losses,  and  we  shall 
therefore  have  less  of  this  class  of  goods  to  glut  the  market  and  break 
down  prices.  The  constant  and  increasing  inquiry  by  the  home  and 
foreign  trade,  is  for  fancy  quality,  and  at  no  time  of  the  year  is  it  ne- 
cessary to  seek  a  customer  for  goods  of  this  description — the  customer 
seeks  the  goods.  There  is  an  over-production  of  the  common  grades, 
but  the  supply  of  first  class  goods  is  not  equal  to  the  demand. 

The  range  of  prices  also  between  the  various  grades  is  wide  and  con- 
stantly widening,  At  the  present  writing,  fancy  grades  of  butter  and 
cheese,  will  in  the  former,  command  five  to  ten  cents  per  pound,  and 
in  the  latter  two  to  three  cents  more  than  is  quoted  for  good  quality 
only.  The  range  of  prices  in  foreign  markets  is  still  greater,  and  the 
following  summary  of  the  quotations  of  the  London  market  on  the 
eleventli  of  December,  illustrates  this  practically,  as  it  appeals  at  once 
to  our  most  tender  jioint,  viz.,  our  pockets  : 

LONDON    (^UOTATIOOS    FOR    CHEESE,    DECEMliER    11,    1875. 

Ent!;li!^ll  Cheddar,  finest, !)2s.  per  cwt.,  equal  to 

"        second, 743.  '*  " 

'■        Cheshire,  finest, 86s.  "  " 

second, 76s.  "  " 

"                "        good, 70y.  "  " 

"                "        poor, oOs.  "  " 

Scotch  Cheddar,   finest, 76s.  "  " 

"                 "        second, 64s.  "  " 

Dati'h  Gonda,        finest, 60s.  "  " 

"           second, o6s.  "  " 

"      Edam,        finest, 68s. 

"            "            second, 56s.  "  " 

American,                finest, 58s.  "               •      " 

'•                       second, 50s.  "  " 

third, 40s.  " 


S32-50 

currency 

18  00 

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21  00 

a 

18  50 

<< 

17  00 

(( 

12125 

u 

18  50 

" 

is;  50 

" 

14  75 

<< 

13  75 

" 

16^50 

ii 

13  75 

" 

14  t)0 

" 

12  00 

" 

!)  75 

" 

102 

These  prices  are  gross,  and  subject  to  the  charges  for  transportation, 
selling,  &c.,  incident  to  the  business.  Evidently  these  figures  are  not 
the  result  of  the  mere  chances  of  commerce,  nor  does  the  foreign 
dairyman  pocket  the  difference  in  value,  simply  because  of  natioual 
prejudice,  but  because  of  the  real  worth  of  the  article  which  he  manu- 
factures. Our  goods  are  the  most  yaluable  immediately  after  their 
production.  Foreign  goods  are  the  better  after  long  continued  care 
and  curing.  Our  goods  can  only  be  shipped  to  near  by  ports, — foreign 
goods  are  sent  the  world  over. 

The  causes  for  these  unfavorable  comparisons,  can  be  directly  traced 
to  the  dairy.  There,  the  greater  part  of  the  trouble  originates,  and 
there  it  eventually  but  surely  comes  home  to  roost.  Goods  made  to 
spoil  in  thirty  to  forty  days  from  time  of  manufacture,  must  be  han- 
dled with  wide  margins,  to  save  the  purchaser  from  loss,  and  even  then 
frequently  the  margin  is  entirely  absorbed  before  a  sale  is  effected. 

The  first  question  which  the  shipper  asks  in  examining  goods  is,  as 
to  the  age  of  the  same.  "  Will  it  keep,  so  as  to  show  as  well  upon 
lauding  as  it  does  at  present  ?"  So  many  have  been  deceived  upon  this 
point,  and  thus  sustained  ruinous  losses,  that  they  are  afraid  to  con- 
tinue in  the  business.  This  is  very  damaging  to  the  trade,  as  it  is  well 
known  that  numbers  engaged  in  handling  a  product,  are  more  bene- 
ficial to  the  producer,  that  if  confined  to  the  few,  the  competition  in 
the  latter  case  being  greatly  lessened.  Distributers  must  feel  greater 
safety  in  the  character  of  the  goods  they  handle  to  insure  free  pur- 
chases. 

But  we  have  confined  ourselves  more  particularly  to  the  cause,  and 
Vv'ill  now  proceed  to  seek  for  the  remedy  for  all  the  ills  and  ailments  of 
the  butter  and  cheese  trade.  First  then,  we  must  go  back  again  to 
first  principles,  cleanliness  in  and  about  the  farm  yard,  and  more  par- 
ticularly in  the  process  of  milking.  Careful  attention  to  the  food  and 
drink  of  the  animals.  The  immediate  removal  of  all  excresences,  offal, 
carrion,  or  other  offensive  matter,  and  fencing  off  the  low  swampy 
grounds,  so  that  impure  and  rank  food  and  stagnant  water  shall  not 
he  accessible.  Secondly,  proper  care  to  be  taken  of  the  milk,  making 
it  the  primary  duty  of  the  farm  hands,  to  observe  this  particular  point, 
whatever  else  may  be  neglected,  t'hen  the  delivery  of  the  milk  to  the 
factory,  which  should  be  done  in  the  coolest  part  of  the  day,  and  never 
in  haste.  The  horses  should  be  obliged  to  walk  the  whole  distance,  so 
as  to  agitate  the  milk  as  little  as  possible.  Upon  its  reception  at  the 
factory  the  responsibility  of  the  maker  commences. 

His  first  step  is  his  most  important  one— an  error  here  cannot  be 
remedied.  Power  should  be  placed  with  him  to  reject  all  impure  milk, 
from  whatever  cause.  Like  a  sentinel  he  should  stand  at  his  scales, 
testing  each  mess,  and  scrutinijcing  each  can,  never  delegating  this 
duty  to  a  subordinate;  this  done,  the  way  is  clear  for  the  production  of 
a  fine  article,  and  if  he  fails,  it  must  be  attributed  either  to  careless- 
ness, or  lack  of  necessary  skill. 

■  Without  going  into  the  details  of  manufacturing,  a  few  thoughts 
may  be  thrown  out  to  makers,  which  though  trivial  may  not  be  useless. 
First,  the  maker  should  be  the  boss  of  liis  factory,  independent  of 
patrons,  committees,  or  salesman  ;  he  should  not  follow  the  advice  of 
every  person  visiting  his  factory,  but  making  his  product  to  suit  the 


103 

demands  of  the  particular  customer  or  market  for  which  it  is  manu- 
factured. Much  mischief  is  wrought  by  makers  "changiuo-  their 
liand/'  at  the  gratuitous  advice  of  every  caller.  Again,  it  is  not  un- 
frequently  the  case  that  where  the  maker  has  followed  instructions,  by 
an  unfavorable  turn  of  the  market,  or  the  neglecting  to  accept  an  offer 
at  the  proper  time,  or  a  sufiden  change  of  weather,  the  goods  are  left 
on  the  shelves,  and  have  to  be  sold  at  a  ruinous  loss  in  consequence  of 
the  rapid  deterioration  in  quality.  In  every  instance  the  maker  should 
understand  that  his  goods  must  possess  good  keeping  qualities,  so  that 
a  forced  sale  must  not  be  resorted  to,  or  the  same  perish  by  keeping. 
With  many  it  is  a  custom  to  hasten  the  curing  of  the  cJieese.  so  that 
it  must  be  sold  in  fifteen  days  from  the  hoop;  this  custom  should  be 
abandoned,  and  a  rule  established,  not  to  make  curds  to  cure  for  ship- 
ment in  less  than  thirty  days.  This  will  prevent  overcrowdino-  the 
markets,  and  insure  a  better  keeping  cheese,  when  the  supply  is  laro-est. 
The  maker  can  readily  discover  whether  or  not  he  has  accomplished 
his  purpose,  without  waiting  for  the  buyer's  inspection,  or  the  ripenino- 
of  his  curds.  As  soon  as  the  cheese  is  removed  from  the  press,  an 
examination  will  reveal  their  future  quality,  so  far  as  the  texture,  body 
and  keeping  qualities  are  concerned.  If  the  surface  is  brio-ht  and 
yields  but  slightly  under  the  thumb,  springing  back  immediately  like 
a  rubber  surface,  he  can  assure  himself — if  proper  care  has  been  taken 
(if  the  milk — in  having  manufactured  a  first-class  article.  If  on  the 
contrary  a  hard  solid  'surface  is  produced,  or  spongy  cheese  appears, 
he  should  see  that  there  should  be  no  duplicates  of  them  in  the  future. 
A  light  cooked  or  slack  salted  curd,  will  ripen  quickly,  but  will  not 
retain  its  flavor,  unless  it  be  already  foul.  Care  should  be  observed 
howcA-er,  not  to  make  a  dry  hard  curd,  as  in  that  case  the  cheese  while 
preserving  its  flavor  will  indicate  age,  and  be  sharp  to  the  taste,  while 
tlie  trade  now  demands  only  mild  flavor  combined  with  rich  texture. 
Coming  to  the  curing  process,  it  is  to  be  regretted  that  so  few  suit- 
able places  for  curing  cheese  and  pi'eserving  butter,  are  found  through- 
out our  best  dairy  sections.  Much  of  the  cheese  made  is  ruined  after 
removal  to  the  curing  rooms,  or  barns,  as  they  might  generally  be 
called.  The  great  requisite  is  a  carefully  constructed  apartment, 
wherein  the  temperature  could  be  regulated  and  controlled  at  will. 
The  sides  should  be  filled  in  solidly,  and  double  windoAvs  be  placed 
througliout,  furnished  with  blinds,  so  as  to  exclude  the  light,  heat  or 
cold,  th.s  with  plastered  Avails  and  ceilings,  and  Avell  ven^tilated,  Avill 
give  an  atmosphere  under  perfect  control,  and  exactly  suitable  to  the 
delicate  duties  required  of  it.  Curing  rooms  should" ahvays  be  upon 
the  ground  floor,  unless' the  same  is  damp  and  the  ventilation  imper- 
fect. Much  damage  is  annually  occasioned  by  flies  depositing  their 
eggs  on  the  surfiice  of  the  cheese,^  which  after  being  boxed  and  sliipped, 
are  fouiid  on  arrival  to  be  damaged  by  skippers.  A  dark  curino-  room 
with  a  free  use  of  fly  pa])er,  Avill  exterminate  these  pests,  and  save  the 
dairyman  many  dollars.  The  delivery  and  transportation  of  the  jiro- 
duct  Jias  be^n  overlooked  in  many  sections,  and  dairymen  should  giA'e 
ihe  subject  greater  attention.  It  is  true  that  along  the  line  of  the 
Central  Iiailroad,  goods  are  moved  Avith  fair  dispatch, "but  yet  do  not 
receive  the  attention  which  their  perishable  nature  demands,  Avhile 
upon  the  side  roads,  frequent  delays  cause  loss  to  the  shiitper  or  con- 


104 

signee.  Your  Convention  should  request  the  N.  Y.  C.  &  H.  K.  E.  & 
Erie  roads,  to  run  their  cheese  and  butter  trains  in  the  night,  and  on 
express  train  time,  while  the  remaining  roads  should  attach  butter  and 
cheese  cars  to  every  through  passenger  train,  and  thus  insure  a  prompt 
delivery  at  destination,  Eefrigerator  cars  have  been  used  considerably, 
but  the  charges  are  too  heavy  for  cheese,  and  the  change  of  tempera- 
ture is  injurious  to  both  products.  It  is  important  that  the  cars 
should  be  well  ventilated,  to  prevent  too  great  heat  in  summer,  while 
in  cold  weather  the  ventilators  could  be  closed. 

Consignors  attribute  unsatisfactory  returns  to  the  neglect  or  inability 
of  the  consignee  to  properly  handle  their  shipments,  forgetting  that 
where  goods  arrive  in  bad  condition,  that  the  quality  never  improves, 
or  even  retains  its  first  state,  but  grows  rapidly  worse,  and  consequently 
has  to  be  forced  on  the  market,  whereas  if  arriving  in  good  condition, 
it  enables  the  dealer  to  realize  more,  certainly  the  market  value. 

The  largely  increased  production,  with  the  comparatively  low  prices 
obtained  the  past  season,  warns  us  to  heed  every  suggestion  which  will 
improve  or  benefit  the  trade,  and  the  thoughts  here  presented  will,  it  is 
to  be  hoped,  be  so  digested  and  the  hints  adopted,  that  each  person 
engaged  in  the  manufacturing  or  handling  of  dairy  products,,  shall  be 
stimulated  to  greater  diligence  and  caution  in  his  labors. 

Above  all  things  should  we  remember,  that  the  quality  of  the  pro- 
duct is  the  acme  of  our  aims,  that  with  perfect  success  in  this  respect 
we  will  be  able  to  defy  competition,  while  without  it,  competition  will 
defy  us.  W.  Jeffreys. 

New  York,  Jan.  8,  187G. 

PRESERVATION  OF  MILK. 

BY    PROF.    G.   C.    CALDWELL,    OF   CORNELL    UNIVERSITY. 

In  the  absence  of  Prof.  Caldwell,  his  paper  was  read  by  the  Secretary. 

Within  the  past  year  attention  has  been  somewhat  prominently 
called  to  two  methods  of  keeping  milk  sweet.  One  of  these  consists 
in  the  use  of  borax,  a  substance  that  is  readily  soluble  in  water,  and  is 
({uite  harmless  when  taken  internally,  at  least  in  any  moderate  quantity ; 
and  yet  it  appears  to  be  singularly  destructive  to  animal  or  vegetable 
life  when  administered  in  a  certain  manner.  Certain  movements  of 
the  contents  of  living  cells  of  plants,  which  are  regarded  as  character- 
istic signs  of  life  in  the  cell,  are  entirely  arrested  after  a  few  minutes 
if  the  plant  is  plunged  in  a  solution  of  borax  :  the  living  matter  of  the 
cell  is  plainly  killed  by  the  borax.  The  spores  of  a  plant  called  the 
vaucheria,  Avhen  they  escape  from  the  mother  cell  into  the  water,  exe- 
cute very  rapid  movements  in  the  water ;  but  in  a  solution  of  borax 
these  movements  are  arrested  almost  immediately.  Infusoria,  rotifers 
and  other  low  forms  of  life,  die  very  soon  in  a  solution  of  borax ;  when 
tadpoles  are  put  in  such  a  solution  they  suffer  convulsive  contractions 
of  the  tail,  the  circulation  of  the  blood  becomes  slower  and  slower, 
and  in  an  hour  the  animal  dies.  Grapes  immersed  in  a  solution  of 
borax  remain  unchanged  for  two  years,  at  least  as  fa,r  as  regards  their 
external  appearance,  and  they  undeigo  no  fermentation ;  they  are  not 
eataljle,  liowever,  as  some  of  the  borax  passes  through  the  skin  into  the 
grape  and  some  of  the -sugar  passes  out.    Meat  remains  tender  and  soft 


105 

for  an  indefinite  length  of  time  and  suffers  no  putrefactive  changes, 
when  kept  in  a  solution  of  borax,  although  some  change  does  take 
place,  which  is  manifested  in  the  production  of  a  peculiar  odor,  differ- 
ing entirely  from  the  usual  putrefactive  odor.  The  spontaneous 
changes  which  milk  undergoes  under  ordinary  circumstances  are  either 
entirely  prevented  or  more  or  less  retarded,  according  to  the  amount 
of  the  preventive  used  by  the  addition  of  borax,  the  result  depend- 
ing on  the  quantity  of  borax  added.  In  one  experiment  15  grains  of 
borax  were  added  to  a  fluid  ounce  of  fresh  milk  ;  the  cream  rose  m  the 
usual  manner,  and  after  a  time  a  little  mould  appeared  on  the  surface 
of  the  cream;  but  the  remainder  of  the  milk,  under  the  layer  of 
cream,  suffered  no  farther  change  ;  it  did  not  become  acid,  and  it  re- 
tained the  appearance  and  even  the  odor  of  fresh  milk  for  several 
months.  It  is  further  stated  in  a  recent  number  of  a  German  paper, 
that  in  the  districts  where  the  parmesan  cheese  is  made,  borax  is  used, 
to  keep  the  milk  from  souring  too  much ;  about  two  ounces  of  borax 
being  added  to  every  hundred  quarts  of  milk. 

The  other  preservative  agent  is  salicylic  acid,  anew  disinfectant  pre- 
pared from  carbolic  acid ;  but,  unlike  carbolic  acid,  it  is  destitute  of 
odor  or  taste,  and  it  is  not  poisonous.  As  an  instance  of  its  preserva- 
tive power,  a  piece  of  meat  suitably  prepared  with  it  gave  off  no  offen- 
sive odor  after  having  been  left  in  a  warm  room  eighteen  days,  nor  was 
any  mould  formed  on  it ;  when  cooked  it  gave  a  good  soup,  and  the 
meat  itself  tasted  like  fresh  meat. 

When  fresh  milk  had  four  ten-thousandths  of  its  weight  of  salicylic 
acid  added  to  it,  and  was  kept  in  a  temperature  of  64  degrees  Fahren- 
heit, it  coagulated  36  hours  later  than  milk  that  had  not  been  so 
treated,  at  86  degrees  Fahrenheit.  Milk  with  the  same  proportion  of 
acid  added  to  it  kept  sweet  26  hours,  and  with  twice  as  much  acid 
added  it  kept  sweet  44  hours ;  another  portion  of  milk  kept  at  the  same 
temperature  without  the  addition  of  the  acid  turned  sour'in  16  hours. 
No  perceptible  taste  was  communicated  to  the  milk  by  these  additions. 
As  to  the  manner  of  using  this  substance,  it  is  recommended  to  sift  a, 
suitable  quantity  of  it  over  the  surface  of  the  milk  while  stirring  it. 
It  is  usually  sold  in  the  form  of  a  fine  powder,  which,  as  it  is  not 
readily  soluble  in  cold  water,  is  liable  to  ball  up  and  dissolve  very 
slowly  indeed  ;  hence  it  is  better  to  add  it  very  gradually,  and  with 
constant  stirring.  After  the  milk  has  been  delivered  at  the  factory 
and  it  will  do  no  harm  to  dilute  it  somewhat,  the  acid  may  be  added  in 
the  form  of  a  cold  saturated  solution,  such  a  solution  may  not  contain 
more  than  one  part  oi  acid  in  one  thousand  parts  of  v>'ater,  so  that  a 
large  quantity  of  it  will  have  to  be  added  in  order  to  get  in  the  needed 
quantity  of  the  acid.  The  acid  is  much  more  soluble  in  hot  water,  but 
the  addition  of  a  hot  solution  coagulates  the  milk. 

An  important  objection  to  the  use  of  this  substance  for  preserving 
the  freshness  of  milk  will,  at  least  for  the  present,  be  found  in  its 
costliness  ;  for  every  hundred  pounds  of  milk  probably  half  an  ounce 
of  the  acid  would  have  to  be  used  to  produce  any  marked  effect.  Deal- 
ers charge  about  $5  a  pound  for  the  acid  now,  but  it  is  likely  that  it 
can  be  produced  at  a  lower  rate  than  this  if  there  is  a  suflicient  de- 
mand for  it. 
8 


106 

At  the  conclusion  of  this  paper  Professor  Arnold  announced  that 
the  editor  of  the  Milcli  Zeitung,  stated  that  oleomargarine  cheese  was 
much  liked  in  Germany,  and  its  manufacture  was  deemed  a  valuable 
method  of  utilizing  the  skim  milk  of  that  country. 

Prof.  Wetherell  offered  the  following  resolution,  which  was  adopted : 
Resolved,  That  this  Convention  heartily  approve  such  an  appropria- 
tion by  Congress  to  the  Centennial  Board  of  Finance  as  shall  insure 
the  success  of  that  grand  national  event. 

EXPEKIMENTAL   DAIRY   STATION. 

J.  V.  H.  Scovill  offered  the  following  resolutions : 

Whereas,  This  association  has  long  felt  the  necessity  of  a  thorough 
system  of  experiment,  by  which  disputed  questions  in  dairy  practice 
may  be  solved  and  settled,  and  the  only  practical  way  appears  to  be  in 
the  establishment  of  an  experimental  station  :  and 

Whereas,  The  paper  read  before  this  association  by  Prof.  E.  W. 
Stewart,  seems  to  offer  a  feasible  plan  for  such  a  station.    Therefore, 

Resolved,  That  a  committee  of  five  be  appointed  to  take  this  matter 
into  consideration  and  of  adopting  the  plan  in  said  paper,  or  such  other, 
as  they  shall  deem  best.  That  they  consult  with  the  authorities  of 
Cornell  University  in  reference  to  the  establishment  of  such  a  station 
at  the  College  Farm,  and  take  such  action  as  they  shall  deem  best  in 
the  matter  of  raising  a  fund  for  such  station,  and  report  to  the  next 
meeting  of  this  association. 

Mr.  Wetherell — Mr.  Stewart's  suggestions  struck  me  very  favorably. 
The  State  of  Connecticut  was  the  first  to  establish  an  experimental 
station.  These  stations  have  worked  well  in  Europe,  where  they  have 
been  long  established.  He  believed  if  such  a  station  were  established, 
the  dairymen,  would  have  the  hearty  co-operation  of  the  Professors  of 
Cornell  University. 

Mr.  Hawley — The  question  has  never  been  presented  in  this  shape 
before.  I  have  heretofore  opposed  it,  but  this  meets  my  cordial  ap- 
proval. 

Mr.  Chadwick,  of  Canada — The  question  is  one  that  has  been  taken 
up  by  our  association,  and  pressed  upon  the  government.  The  govern- 
ment of  Ontario  has  established  an  agricultural  school,  and  we  are 
trying  to  have  another  established.  Dairymen  should  be  educated  so 
that  they  could  speak  from  knowledge  and  not  merely  from  opinion. 

Prof.  Arnold — If  the  project  which  is  here  presented  is  carried  out, 
it  will  be  the  grandest  thing  that  has  ever  been  produced  for  dairying. 
It  is  desirable  that  the  project  be  carried  out  on  this  scale.  It  will  be 
one  of  the  proudest  items  in  the  dairy  record  for  years  past.  It  will 
pay  for  its  cost  ten  times  over. 

The  resolution  was  adopted  and  the  following  committee  appointed: 
C.  L.  Sheldon,  Lewis  County ;  W.  A.  Johnson,  Erie ;  Hon.  Harris 
Lewis,  Herkimer;  William  Lock,  Oneida;  William  Blanding,  Broome. 
The  matter  of  the  centennial  coming  again  under  discussion,  Hon. 
Harris. Lewis  offered  a  resolution  which  was  adopted,  inviting  the  On- 
ondaga Salt  Company  to  exhibit  their  products  with  the  American 
Dairymen's  Association  at  the  Philadelphia  centennial. 


107 


ELECTION   OF   OFFICEES. 


The  Committee  on  Nominations  named  the  following  persons  to 
serve  as  officers  of  the  Association  for  the  ensuing  year: 

President — Hon.  Horation  Seymour,  of  Oneida. 

Vice  Presidenth — X.  A.  Willard,  Herkimer ;  T.  D.  Curtis,  Ononda- 
ga; 0.  S.  Bliss,  Vermont;  David  W.  Lewis,  New  York  city;  M.  Fol- 
som,  New  York  city ;  Stephen  Faville,  Wisconsin  ;  Charles  House, 
Lewis  County;  G.  B.  Weeks,  Onondaga;  Wm.  Blanding,  Broome;  C. 

E.  Chadwick,  Canada;  Dr.  George  F.  Cole,  St.  Lawrence  County;  A. 
M.  Fuller,  Pennsylvania;  L.  W.  Miller,  Chautauqua  County;  E.  A. 
Ayers,  Jefferson  ;  F.  Keeler,  Cattaraugus  ;  G.  E.  Morrow,. Illinois  ;  C. 

F.  Whittier,  Minnesota  ;  John  T.  Ellsworth,  Massachusetts  ;  Hon.  Wm. 
A.  Johnson,  Erie  County;  Dr.  L.  L.  Wight,  Oneida;  S.  Straight, 
Ohio;  Chester  Uazen,  Wisconsin  ;  Prof.  L.  Wetherell,  Massachusetts  ; 
A.  B.  Lamont,  Tompkins  County;  Edward  Norton,  Connecticut;  P. 
H.  Burchard,  Illinois  ;  C.  H.  Wilder,  Wisconsin;  0.  C.  Blodgett,  Chau- 
tauqua County  ;  David  H.  Burrell,  Herkimer  ;  J.  M.Peters,  New  York 
city  ;  S.  A.  Farrington,  Pennsylvania. 

Secretary — L.  B.  Arnold,  Rochester. 

Treasurer — Hon.  Harris  Lewis,  Frankfort,  Herkimer  County. 
The  report  of  the  Treasurer,  was  then  heard.     The  receipts  of  the 
past  year  have  been  $356.55  ;  disbursements  $345.81. 

DAIRY    IMPLEllENTS. 

The  Committee  on  Dairy  Implements  made  the  following  report: 

First.  We  examined  the  Whitman  &  Burrell  economizer  engine 
and  boiler,  and  Walrath  engine  and  boiler,  and  we  report  in  favor  of 
the  Economizer  engine  and  boiler  of  Whitman  &  Burrell,  for  the  reason 
that  it  seemed  to  possess  the  most  direct  and  practical  smoke  stack, 
being  larger  and  more  direct;  also  a  simple  method  of  changing  the 
stroke,  thereby  saving  steam  for  light  work. 

Second.  We  recommend  the  Fraser  gang  press,  and  suggest  that 
some  power  be  attached  to  it  to  continue  the  pressure. 

Third.  We  examined  the  Champion  Batter  Worker.  It  is  an 
admirable  machine.  Also,  Embree's  Kotary  Butter  Worker,  wliich  ap- 
pears to  work  with  much  convenience. 

Fourth.  We  have  examined  the  Bhinchard,  Bullard,  and  J.  C.  Baker's 
Double  Dash  Eureka  churns,  and  without  seeing  them  operate,  it  would 
be  impossible  to  decide  upon  their  respective  merits. 

Fifth.  We  examined  Bussey's  National  Milk  Cooler,  and  would 
strongly  recommend  its  universal  use — as  it  cools  and  airs  the  milk 
before  it  reaches  the  factory,  which  we  believL-  to  be  a  great  improve- 
ment on  the  old  tight  can  ;  and  it  is  available  to  every  patron.  We 
would  also  recommend  liis  square  tin,  with  aeiater  on  bottom,  to  be 
used  on  vats  or  large  quantities  of  milk. 

Sixth.  Moore's  Emjure  Milk  Pan  would,  no  doubt,  be  a  good  cooler 
where  large  amounts  of  milk  are  to  be  handled. 

Seventh.  Armstrong's  Cheese  Vat  Cover  is  highly  recommended ; 
we  believe  it  to  be  advantageous  in  many  ways,  namely  :  keeping  the 
curds  at  a  uniform  temperature,  especially  in  cold  weather.  Also,  we 
believe  it  will  produce  a  larger  return,  and  we  highly  recommend  the 
adoption  of  it  by  factorymen  generally. 


•108 

Eighth.  Middaugh's  Milk  Tester  we  recommend,  being  simple.  Also 
an  air-tight  butter  package  with  an  effective  fastening,  and  a  neat  and 
handsome  package  for  market  purposes. 

Ninth.  Hubbell  &  Chesebro's  family  butter  package  is  very  con- 
venient for  family  use. 

Tenth.  Wells,  Kichardson  &  Go's,  golden  extract  of  anatto  being 
highly  recommended,  we   leave  it  to  factorymen  to  give  it  a  trial. 

Eleventh.  McAdams'  curd  grinder  we  recommend  to  those  using 
curd  grinders.  The  two  sample  cases  exhibited  by  Sterling  &  Bingham, 
of  Watertown,  showed  many  fine  specimens  of  workmanship  and  use- 
ful tools. 

Twelfth.  ■  Burrell  &  Whitman's  perpendicular  and  horizontal  curd 
knives  Ave  recommend  highly. 

Thirteenth.  We  have  examined  the  refrigerator  used  in  Hardin's 
improved  method  of  butter  makmg,  and  believe  it  to  be  a  simple  and 
cheap  method  of  making  butter,  and  feel  warranted  in  giving  it  the 
highest  recommendation. 

Mr.  Lewis  alluded  to  the  subject  of  the  paper,  which  was  to  be  read 
by  Prof.  Noah  Cressy,  of  the  Massachusetts  Agricultural  College,  upon 
epidemic  abortion  among  cows.   He  presented  the  following  resolution : 

Besolved,  That  a  petition  be  presented  by  this  Association  to  Con- 
gress, asking  an  appropriation  of  $10,000  to  be  offered  as  a  reward  to 
any  person  who  shall  discover  the  cause  of  epidemic  abortion  among 
cows. 

Prof.  Stewart  recommended  that  our  representatives  in  Congress  be 
asked  to  urge  this  matter  before  Congress. 

An  additional  clause  was.  added  providing  that  a  committee  of  three 
be  appointed  to  draft  a  petition  as  provided.  As  amended,  the  resolu- 
tion Avas  adopted.  The  following  committee  Avas  appointed :  Hon. 
Harris  LeAvis,  of  Ncav  York ;  L.  S.  Hardin,  of  Kentucky,  and  John 
T.  EllsAvorth,  of  Massachusetts. 

The  Convention  then  adjourned,  subject  to  the  call  of  the  Executive 
Committee. 


"  «.isn!*¥«     »¥ST:T¥:1      l^lB^CZrn  ff 


THE  BLANCHAED  CHURN 

As  now  oflFered  to  the  Trade  and  to  the  practical  Dairyman,  is  the  result 

of  over  twenty-five  years  experience  and  experiment.     It  has 

been  proved,  and  ^wiproved,  and  a/jproved  during  the  past 

quarter  of  a  century,   and  is  now  unquestionably 

THE  LEADING  CHURN  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 

NEARLY  ONE  MUNDBED  THOUSANI} 

Are  now  in  successful  operation.     They  are  for  sale  in  every  State  and 

Territory  of  the  Union,  and  many  foreign  countries.    They  always 

sell  the  best  where  they  have  been  used  the  longest.     They 

combine  more  desirable  qualities  than  any  other  Churn 

now  made.     No  other  churns  are  made  of  as 

good  materials,  or  as  faithfully. 

WE    OtlA-LLElVG^E    COiytFAK^ISOIV. 

They  cannot  get  out  of  order,  because  they  are  so  simple.     Because 

they  are  so  simple,  and  thoroughly  made,  they  are  very  durable. 

They  have  no  cog-wheels  or  gearing  to  wear  out  or  break. 

They  work  the  Butter  free  from  butter-milk  in  the  churn, 

without  any  change  of  dasher,  quicker  and  better 

than  it  can  be  done  by  hand.     They  work  in 

the   salt  in  the   same   way.      They  are 

PERFECT  AUTOMATIC  BUTTER  MAKERS. 

©EVEN    SIZES    IVIA-DE. 

No.  3,  for  about  2  gallons  of  cream, $G  00  I  No.  7,  for  about  18  gallons  of  cream, $12  00 

No.  4,        "         4        "  "       7  00  I  No.  &,  for  from  50  to  75  gallons  of  cream,  40  00 

No.  5.        "         8        "  "      8  00    No.  9,  for  from  75  to  150    "  "       45  00 

No.  6,        •'       12       "  "      10  00 1  Power  Pulley  for  any  size  Chnra, 2  50 

If  they  do  not  give  satisfaction,  or  prove  to  be  as  represented,  they 
may  be  returned  to  the  Agent  of  whom  they  are  purchased,  at  our 
expense. 

The  Factory  sizes,  (Nos.  8  and  9),  are  found  to  be  exactly  what  is 
needed  in  large  Dairies,  or  Factories,  where  power  is  used.  They  have 
the  unqualified  commendation  of  every  one  who  has  used  them. 

Send  to  any  dealer  in  really  first-class  dairy  implements  for  our 
goods.     They  all  keep  them. 

We  furnish  free,  on  application,  our  "  New  Butter  Manual,"  and  de- 
scriptive circulars.     Send  for  them.     "  Get  the  Best." 

SOLE   MANUFACTURERS, 

PORTER    BLANCHARD'S    SONS, 


WELLS,  RICHARDSON  &  OO.'S 


Bsito# 


Its  superiority  over  any  other  preparation  is  claimed  on  the  following  grounds: 

1st.  The  Extract  is  the  golden  yellow  coloring  matter  of  the  Annatto  Plant, 
free  from  any  possible  form  of  adulteration,  and  purified  from  the  reddish  color 
naturally  associated  with  it.  By  our  process  we  extraet  the  coloring  matter  from 
the  crude  product,  and  by  scientific  manipulation  completely  purify  the  liquid  from 
every  substance  except  the  pure  golden  color  which  so  exactly  resembles  the  nat- 
ural color  of  June  butter.  2d.  It  is  almost  entirely  without  taste  or  smell  and  does 
not  contaminate  butter  in  the  least.  Greatly  superior  to  carrots  in  this  and  all 
other  respects.  3d.  It  is  a  fluid  Extract,  and  requires  no  preparation,  thus  saving 
much,  time  and  labor.  4th.  It  gives  to  butter  and  cheese  a  pure  golden  tmt  with- 
out the  reddish  tinge  so  often  seen.  5th.  It  is  perfectly  reliable  and  always  uni- 
form. A  single  trial  will  prove  its  superiority  over  any  other  coloring  matter. 
6th.  At  the  very  low  price  at  which  it  is  sold,  it  is  cheaper  for  dairymen  than  any 
other  coloring.  It  adds  at  least  5  cents  per  pound  to  the  value  of  butter  during  six 
months  of  the  year  or  more,  and  3  cents  per  pound  to  the  value  of  cheese.  It  is 
especially  needed  for  cheese  intended  for  export,  for  foreign  markets  invariably 
demand  a  bright  color,  such  as  is  most  readily  obtained  by  the  use  of  this  prepara- 
tion.    7th.  It  is  recommended  by  the  best  chemists  and.  dairymen  of  the  country. 

PRICK    LIST. 
rint  Bottles, SO  Cents.  \  Quart  Bottles, 75  Cents. 

We  also  prepare  an  extra  strength  for  the  use  of  factories,  creameries,  dyers,  calico  printers, 
&c.,  which  we  sell  in  gallon  bottles,  at  $3  each.  ,.,.,„     ^     ^ 

Manufacturers  who  use  large  quantities  can  be  supplied  m  bulk  at  reduced  figures  by  applica- 
tion direct  to  the  proprietors. 

WEEKES  S  BROWNE,  Agents,  Syracuse,  N.  Y. 


Proprietors  and  Sole  Manufacturers  of  the 


FAMOll 


MANUFACTURERS  AND  DEALERS  IN 

Boilers,  Engines,  Vats,  Curd  Sinks,  Curd  Hills, 
Cans,  &c.. 

And  every  description  of  DAIRY  IMPLEMENTS  and  FURNISHING  GOODS. 
[[^"Illustrated  Catalogue  sent  free  on  application. 

Near  Central  Depot,  ROME,  N.  Y. 


THE 


THOROUGHLY  TESTED 

Throughout  the  whole  country,  and  acknowledged  ])y  all  as 

The  Leading  Pan  of  the  World ! 

AWARDED  THE 

FIRST  PREMIUM  DIPLOMA 

And  A  SILVER  3IEDAL 

By  the  VERMONT  STATE  AGRICULTURAL  SOCIETY,  which  is  the 
highest  award  ever  awarded  a  dairy  utensil.    Will  be 

30  DAYS  TRIAL  GIVEN 

ON  EVERY  SET. 
II^"Send  for  Descriptive  Circular,  which  will  be  sent  free  to  any  one. 
'Address, 

W.  O.  CAMPBELL  &  CO., 

rtiehford,    Vermont. 


To    AMERICAN    DAIRYMEN. 


We  take  pleasure  in  announcing  that  we  have  contracted  to  publish,  and  expect 

to  issue  in  May  next,  a  volume  of  great  interest  and  importance 

to  dairymen  everywhere,  entitled 

AMERICAI  DAIRYOG, 


A    MANUAL    FOR 


Butter  &  Cheese  Makers, 

BY 

L.  B.  ARNOLD.  A.  M. 


It  will  contain  about  300  12-mo  pages,  will  be  liberally  illustrated,  well  printed 
and  substantially  bound — Price,  $1.50. 

The  result  of  long  experience,  intelligent  research,  careful  experiments  and 
correct  judgment,  this  work  must  at  once  become  standard  authority.  All  sub- 
jects properly  coming  within  its  scope  will  be  treated  upon  in  it,  and  as  fully  as 
practical  men  can  desire  to  meet  their  practical  needs.  It  cannot  fail  of  being  for 
every  Butter  or  Cheese  manufacturer  an  invaluable  assistant  and  guide. 

TJie  demand  for  it  is  certain  to  be  large,  and  we  shall  respond  to  all  orders  in 
the  order  received.  To  insure  a  copy  promptly,  please  fill  out  a  blank  like  the  one 
appended,  and  send  at  once  to 

THE  KUBAL  HOME  CO., 

MOCHESTEBf  N.Y. 
*%• 

1  3  -F  ©. 

THE  RURAL  HOME  PUBLISHING  CO., 

Oentlemcn  : — Send  me  as  soon  as  issued,  a  copy  of  American  Dairyirtfff 
by  L.  B.  Arnold.    Upon  receipt  of  it  I  will  remit  $1.50,  the  published  pHce. 

Name, 

Place, _ 

State, 


ik 


Send  for  Cotnjilete  Illustrated    Ci^'cular   of  all    Apparatus 
and  Furnishings  for 

CHEESE  AND  BUTTER  FACTORIES. 

NEW  METHOD  OF  MANUFACTUEE  GIVEN. 

General  Agents  for  the  Celebrated  Blaneha7^d  Churn, 
French  Burr-Stone  Grist-Mills,  &c» 

CHEESE  VATS  THAT  DO  NOT  LEAK. 

We  have  heard  a  good  deal  of  complaint  about  vats  leaking.  We  want  it  dis- 
tinctly understood,  that  our  vats  are  i^ut  together  by  a  way  of  our  own,  and  will 
not  leak.  They  are  made  of  the  best  two  inch  pine  plank,  thoroughly  seasoned 
and  perfectly  sound,  and  are  the  best  that  can  be  made. 

We  manufacture  largely  CHEESE-BOX  HOOPS,  Rims  and  Heading,  and 
ship  in  Bundles  ready  to  make  up  into  CHEESE-BOXES,  TOBACCO  DRUMS.  &c. 


THE    ONLY    BOILER    FOR    DAIRYMEN    AND    FARMERS. 

Highest  award  of  the  Committee 
on  Boilers  for  Cheese  Factory  pur- 
poses, at  the  American  Dairy- 
men's .Convention,  a  very  large 
assemblage  at  Rome,  to  the  Econ- 
omizer, over  all  others  on  exhi- 
bition. 

The  best  portable  Steam  Engine 
in  market.  Boiler  all  wrought 
iron.  Every  part  made  upon 
honor.  All  bearing  parts  made  to 
take  up  wear.  Engine  warranted 
of  best  Iron  and  Steel.  Nothing 
cheap  but  price.  Fire  passes  un- 
derneath boiler  to  the  back,  thence 
through  the  flues  and|up_the  stack. 

PRICE©. 
Three-horse  Powder,  $350 ;  Four- 
horse  Power,  $400ji  Five-horse 
Power,  $450 ;  Eight-horse  Power, 
$575.  The  best  and  only  Return- 
flue  Agricultur  al  Engine  on  wheels,  complctwith  all  the  attachments,  $750. 
[Refer  to  page  (107)  in  report  on  Factory  Apparatus.] 

HIGHEST  PREMIUMS  at  twenty-two  important  Fairs  and  Exposi- 
tions, including  American  Institute  test  of  three  months — '73  and  '74 — for  portable 
safety  BOILERS  AND  ENGINES. 

^^"  Every  article  of  our  Manufacture  fully  guaranteed. 


The  Dairy  Room  of 


^^<%^^/^^ 


The  Patent  Gulf  Stream  Refrigerated  Dairy, 

WITH  SUBTERRANEAN  VENTILATION, 

J.  WILKINSOM,  Eural  Architect,  of  Baltimore,  Md., 

INVENTOR  AND  PATENTEE, 

Is  now  available  to  all  Dairymen.      The  charge  for  a  right  to  construct  and  use  it 

is  but  TWENTY  DOLLARS. 


The  Chester  County  (Pa.)  Agricultural  Society  has  just  awarded  a  MEDAL 
to  the  inventor  of  this  simple  and  wonderful  invention ;  and  the  Executive  Com- 
mittee of  the  American  Dairymen's  Association  have  ordered  it  for  the  Dairy 
House,  which  it  is  proposed  to  erect  on  the  International  Exhibition  Grounds,  for 
whijh  plans  are  now  being  prepared. 

An  ILLUSTRATED  PAMPHLET,  describing  the  defects  of  all  other  styles 
of  dairy  rooms,  and  a  minute  description  of  the  perfect  dairy,  may  be  obtained  by 
sending  Twenty-five  Cents  and  a  Stamp  to  J.  WILKINSON,  Superintendent  of 
the  Agricultural  Building,  International  Exhibition— Office  in  the  Building. 

Tlie  Pamphlet  contains  certificates  from  parties  having  this  Dairy  in  use,  all 
of  whom  say  it  is  PERFECT. 

March,  1876. 


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EYEEY  DAIKYMAN 


SHOULD  READ 


(.4 


The  Grocer, 

W,  H,  a  JPBICE,  Bdit07\ 

PUBLISHED  EVERY  SATURDAY  MORNING, 

— BY — 

At  No.  163  Chambers  Street,  New  York. 


Subscription  Price  only  $2.00  per  Annum, 

(Inoltjding  Postage.) 


The  GROCER  is  the  CHEAPEST,  LIVE- 
LIEST and  Most  COMPLETE  Weekly 
COMMERCIAL  PAPER  Published. 


Its  EDITORIAL  Department  is  devoted  to  the  discussion  of  fresh  and  timely 
topics  connected  with  all  branches  of  trade.  All  matters  of  Commercial  News, 
both  domestic  and  foreign,  are  promptly  and  fully  reported  in  its  NEWS  DE- 
PARTMENT, while  its  MARKET  REPORTS  are  the  most  complete  and  accurate 
published  in  New  York,  containing  full  reviews  of  the  Markets  for  GROCERIES, 
COUNTRY  PRODUCE,  BUTTER  AND  CHEESE,  DRY  GOODS,  HARD- 
WARE,  DRUGS  AND  CHEMICALS,  TOBACCO,  LEATHER,  LUMBER,  &c. 

DAIRY  PRODUCTS  receive  special  attention  in  THE  GROCER,  and  the 
methods  of  manufacture  and  preparation  for  market,  as  well  as  the  condition  of 
the  home  and  foreign  markets,  are  freely  discussed  and  truthfully  reported. 

SUBSCRIPTION  PRICE  ONLY  $2.00  PER  ANNUM,  IN  ADVANCE,  in- 
cluding Postage  to  all  parts  of  the  United  States  and  Canada. 

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No.  163  Cn AMBERS  Street,  NEW  YORK. 


O  KT 


THE   AMERICAN 

will   be  sent  On   Trial 

dress,     Thirteen 

cents  !  lor  the  pur- 
iug  it  to  New  Read- 
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THE  RURAL  HOME, 


RURAL    HOME 

post   paid,  to    any    ad- 

Weeks   ±or   40 

pose  of  introduc- 
ers throughout  the 
British     America. 


Agricultural,  Lite- 
Weekly  in  the 
year.  Lowest  Club 
a  Specimen,  a  'post- 
address   on   it  ! 

ROCHESTER,  N.  Y. 


Saivleytou,  Broome  County,  N,  Y,, 


MANUFACTURER  OF 


OF  CHEESE  AND  BUTTER  FACTORIES, 

**WITH     THE    MOST     PRACTICAL    AND    MODERN    IMPROVEMENTS 


An  experience  of  12  years  in  thel,buildiiig  and  management  of  Factories,  with  a 
constant  aim  to  keep  at  least  even  pace  with  the  rapid  advance  in  this  important 
branch  of  agricultural  industry,  and  ever  ready  to  adopt  any  improvement  that 
recommends  itself  by  a  thorough  test,  he  believes  that  a  correspondence  with  many 
engaged  in  manufacturing,  and  others  contemplating  building  new  factories,  would 
be  of  mutual  benefit. 

In  his  plans  and  specifications  it  will  be  found  that  economy  of  construction, 
beauty  of  design,  and  practical  utility,  have  been  carefully  considered.  Corres- 
pondence solicited. 

Observe  the  Folloiving  Rules  in   Writing  for  Estimates: 

1st.  State  plainly  the  mannner  of  manufacture  proposed,  whether  full  milk, 
night's  milk  only,  skimmed  or  creamery.  2d.  Capacity  for  the  milk  of  what 
number  of  cows.  3d.  Kind  of  soil,  wet  or  dry,  level  or  otherwise,  of  proposed 
site.  4th.  Elevation,  temperature,  capacity  of  spring,  and  distance  from 
factory.  5th.  Price  of  hemlock  and  pine  lumber  per  thousand,  delivered.  6th. 
Facility  of  draining  the  factory  grounds.     7th.  Nearest  Railroad  station. 

General  estimates  furnished  by  request,  enclosing  return  postage. 

Plan  of  building,  with  specifications  and  bill  of  materials,  including'f  urniture 
complete,  furnished  at  short  notice  and  on  reasonable  terms. 

Address,  WM.  BLANDIJVG,  Hatvleyton,  N.  Y, 

Hon.  X.  A.  WiLLARD,  Author  of  "  Practical  Dairy  Husbandry,"  "  Practical  Butter  Book," 
Dairy  Editor  of  "  Moore's  Rural  New  Yorker,"  and  President  of  N.  Y.  State  Dairymen's  Associa- 
tion and  Board  of  Trade,  Little  Palls,  N.  Y. 

Prof.  L.  B.  Arnold,  Secretary  of  the  American  Dairymen's  Association,  Rochester,  N.  Y. 

E.  J.  WicKsoN,  Late  Agricultural  Editor  of  the  Utica  Herald  and  President  of  Utica  Board  of 
Trade,  now  of  the  "Pacific  Rural  Press."  San  Francisco,  Cal.  • 

O.  S.  Bliss,  Sec'y  and  Treas.  of  "  Vermont  Dairymen's  Association,"  Georgia,  Vt. 

M.  W.  SuAPLBT,  of  the  "Binghamton  Iron  [Works,"  and  inventorof  the  '"  Shapley  Engine," 
Binghamton,  N.  Y. ' 

IMPROVED   METHOD    OF 


Settim  Ml  for  Mm  Bitter. 

Recommended  by  Hon.  X.  A.  Willard, 
Prof.  L.  B.  Arnold,  The  American  Dairy- 
men's Convention,  &o. 

FOR  CIRCULARS  FREE, 


LOUISVILLE,  Ky. 


Wari*i  lertlliier  i#Mpaaf  ^ 

ANDREWJH.  WARD,  Treasurer. 

Office  248,  formerly  102,  Washington  St.,  Boston.  P.  O.  Box  3456, 


MANUFACTURERS   OF 


SPECIAL  FEUTILIZERS 

For  Wheat,  Rye,   Barley,   Oats,  Cotton,  Grass,  Onions,'  Buckwheat, 

Tobacco,  Clover,  Beets,  Turnips,  Corn,  Peas,  Hops,  Carrots, 

Cabbages,    Potatoes,    Sugar    Cane,   Strawberries, 

Celery,  Pot  Plants,  Flowers,  &c.,  «&c. 

AT  $15  PER  TON  IN  BULK.r  ,  PACKAGES,   EXTRA. 

ALSO    FOE   SALE 

Superphosphate  of  Lime,  Ground  Bones,  Nitrate  Soda,  Potash  Salts, 

Ashes,  Sulphate  Ammonia,  Soda  Ash,  Silicates  of  Potash,  Soda 

and  Lime,  Nitrate  of  Lime,  Phosphate  of  Soda,  &c. 


WARD'S '^  FERTILIZER 

For  House  Plants,'odorless,  enough  for  100  Plants,  sent  by  Mail  for  10c. 

WARD'S  SEED  PREPARATION 

Will  increase  the  Grain,  Corn  and  Cotton  crops,  25  per  cent.,  and  is 

applicable   to;  all  other  seeds. Jf^Sutllcient  for  an  acre, 

sent   by  Mail   for   fifty   cents. 

WARDS     PREPARATION     FOR     POTATOES 

Increases  the  yield,  and  is  preventive  of  the ^' rot.     Sufficient  sent  by 
"  Mail,  for  one  bushel  of  seed,  for  twenty-five  cents. 

ADDRESS    ORDERS  TO 

AMEf  H.¥AED,Treas.,  %.  JOSEPH  BBECK&  SONS,  Aits. 

51  tt-  52  North  Market  Street,  Boston,