NYPL RESEARCH LIBRARIES
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APICIUS REDIVIVUS;
v
OR,
THE COOK'S ORACLE:
Wherein especially
THE ART OF COMPOSING SOUPS, SAUCES, AND FLAVOURING ESSENCES
IS MADE SO CLEAR AND EASY, BY THE QUANTITY OF EACH
ARTICLE BEING ACCURATELY STATED BY WEIGHT AND
MEASURE, THAT EVERY ONE MAY SOON LEARN
TO DRESS A DINNER, AS WELL AS THE
MOST EXPERIENCED COOK ;
:25tm -o>u; 5jimta*eD l&eteipt#,
THE
RESULT OF ACTUAL EXPERIMENTS
INSTITUTED IN
THE KITCHEN OF A PHYSICIAN,
FOR THE PURPOSE OF COMPOSING
A CULINARY CODE FOR THE RATIONAL EPICURE,
AND AUGMENTING
<Q;njo2iftent0 cf IBritate families;
COMBINING ECONOMY WITH ELEGANCE;
AND SAVING EXPENSE TO HOUSEKEEPERS,
AND TROUBLE TO SERVANTS.
" I have taken BS much pains in describing, in the fullest manner, how to make, in
the easiest, most agreeable, and most economical way, those Dishes which daily con-
tribute to the comforts of the middle rank of Society, as I have in directing the
preparation of those piqtiante and elaborate relishes, the most ingenious and accom-
plished " Officers of the Mouth" have invented for the amusement of Grands
Gourmands. These are so composed, as to be as agreeable and useful to the stomach,
as they are inviting 10 the appetite ; nourishing without being inflammatory, and
savoury without being surfeiting." Fifcte PREFACE, pageZ.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR SAMUEL BAGSTER,
NO. 15, PATERNOSTER- ROW,
By J. Moyes, Greville Street.
1817.
: *> *
PUBLIC LIBI11Y
*- ^ ' E5
B
1 AND
4
4)
TO
TASTEFUL PALATES,
KEEN APPETITES,
AND
HEALTHFUL AND CAPACIOUS STOMACHS
THE FOLLOWING RECEIPTS,
COMPOSED
FOR THEIR RATIONAL RECREATION,
ARE RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED.
a 2
PREFACE.
IHE following Receipts are not a mere marvow-
less collection of shreds, and patches, and cuttings, and
pastings, from obsolete works, but a bona fide register
of practical facts, accumulated by a perseverance not to
be subdued or evaporated by the igniferous terrors of a
roasting (ire in the dog-days, or a vote of censure from
the Cooks' Company, for thus daring to promulgate the
profound mysteries of the (till now, in the following
pages, explained and elucidated to the humblest capa-
city,) occult art of cookery. The Receipts have been
written down by the fire-side, " with a spit in one hand,
and a pen in the other," in defiance of the combined
odoriferous and califacient repellents of roasting and
boiling, frying and broiling; the author submitting to
a labour no preceding cookery-book-maker, perhaps,
ever attempted to encounter; and having not only
dressed, but eaten each Receipt before he set it down in
his book. As they have all been received with a hearty
welcome by a sufficiently well educated palate, and a
a3
PREFACE.
.rather fastidious stomach ; perhaps this certificate of
the eatability of the respective preparations will partly
apologize for the book containing a smaller number of
them than some preceding writers oa this gratifying
subject have transcribed for the protit and amusement
of " every man's master," the STOMACH*,
1 have endeavoured to describe each preparation in
so plain and circumstantial a manner as I hope will be
easily understood, even by the amateur who is wholly
unacquainted with the practical part of culinary con-
cerns. Old housekeepers may think I have been tedi-
ously minute on many points, which, to them, appear
trifling, and former writers on this subject have
deemed unworthy of attention. But these little delicate
distinctions constitute all the difference between
a common table and an elegant one, and are not
trifles to the novice, who must learn them either from
the communication of others, or blunder on till his own
slowly -accumulating and dear-bought experience
teaches him. A wish to save trouble and time to un-
informed beginners, was my motive for publishing this
book, and I could accomplish it only by supposing
the reader, when he first opens my book, to be as igno-
rant of cookery as I was when I first thought of writing
on the subject.
By a careful attention to the directions herein given,
* " The stomach is the grand organ of the human system,
upon the state of which ail the powers and feelings of the
individual depend." See HUNTER'S Culina, page 13.
PREFACE.
the most ignorant will easily learn to prepare food',
not only in an agreeable and wholesome, but in an
elegant and economical manner.
The cardinal virtues of cookery, " CLEANLINESS,
/ *
FRUGALITY, NOURISHMENT, AND PALATEABLE-
N ESS," preside overeach preparation ; for I have not pre-
sumed to insert a single composition without previously
obtaining the " imprimatur" of an enlightened and most
indefatigable " COMMITTEE OF TASTE," whose
persevering and cordial co-operation I cannot too highly
praise ; and here most gratefully record the unremitting
zeal they manifested during their arduous progress of
proving the respective recipes, who were so truly philo-
sophically and disinterestedly regardless of the wear and
tear of teeth and stomach, that their labour appeared a
pleasure to them. This laudable perseverance has enabled
me to give the most inexperienced amateur this unerring
guide how to excite as much pleasure as possible on the
palate, with as little trouble as possible to the principal
viscera.
Every attention has been paid in directing the pro-
portions of the foil*, wing compositions, not merely to
make them inviting to the appetite, but agreeable
and useful to the stomach ; nourishing without being
inflammatory, and savoury without being surfeiting.
I have no new forms of luxury to communicate ; no
claims to the Roman Emperor's bounty for inventing a
new pleasure ; nor do I pretend to give any information
a 4
PREFACE.
to those grand masters and mistresses of the alimentary
art, who are commonly called " profess cooks/'
whose greatest praise is in contriving dishes, not to aliay
the appetite, but to excite it, to gratify those who
live upon sauces instead of food, and who see the sua
rise with no other hope than that they shall fill their
bellies before it sets. I have written for those who
make nourishment the chief end of eating *, and do not
' Although pleasing the palate be the main end in most
books of cookery, it is my aim to blend the toothsome
with the wholesome; for, after all, however the hale Gourmand
may at first differ from ine in opinion, the latter is the chief
concern ; since if he be even so entirely devoted to the pleasure
of eating, as to think of no other, still the care of his health
becomes part of that ; if he is sick, he cannot relish his
food.
" The term gourma-nd, or epicure, has been strangely per-
verted ; it has been conceived synonimous with a gluttony
like that of the great eater of Kent; or a fastidious appetite
only to be excited by fantastic dainties, as the brains of pea-
cocks or parrots, the tongues of thrushes and nightingales, or
the teats of a lactiferous sow. In the liberal acceptation of
the term epicure, and as I use it, it means only the person
who relishes his food cooked according to scientific principles,
so prepared that the palate is delighted, rendered of easy so-
lution in the stomach, and ultimately contributing to health;
exciting him, as an animal, to the vigorous enjoyment of those
recreations and duties, physical and intellectual, which con-
stitute the happiness and dignity of his nature." In this cty-
PREFACE.
desire to provoke appetite beyond the power and
necessities of nature ; proceeding, however, on the
purest Epicurean principles of indulging the palate as
far as it can be done without injury or offence to the
stomach. The pleasures of the table have always been
highly appreciated and carefully cultivated in all coun-
tries and in all ages ; and, in spite of the Stoics, every
one will allow they are the first we enjoy, the last we
leave, and those we taste the oftenest. A sound stomach
may be said to be the mainspring of all our comfort ; and
there would be uo difficulty in proving that this viscera
influences (much more than people in general imagine) all
our actions: the destiny of nations has often depended
upon the more or less laborious digestion of a prime
minister. The great philosopher Pythagoras, in his Gol-
den Verses, shews himself to have been extremely nice in
eating, and makes it one of his chief principles of morality
to " abstain from beans." Our great English moralisr r
Dr. Johnson, (says Boswell,) was a man of very nice dis-
cernment in the science of cookery, and talked of good
eating with uncommon satisfaction. " Some people,"
said he, " have a foolish way of not minding, or pre-
tending not to mind what they eat ; for my part, I mind
mological illustration, I am indebted to ray scientific friend,.
Apicius Ccelius, junr., with whose erudite observations
several of the pages of this work are enriched, as will be un-
derstood when the signature A. C. junr. is affixed,
a 5
PREFACE.
my belly very studiously and very carefully, and I
look upon it, that he who does not mind his belly, will
hardly mind any thing else." Mr. B. adds, " I never
knew a man who relished good eating more than he
did : when at table, he was totally absorbed in the
business of the moment : nor would he, unless in very
high company, say one word, or even pay the least at-
tention to what was said by others, till he had satisfied
his appetite."
The Receipts are the results of experiments carefully
made and accurately and circumstantially detailed, the
time requisite for dressing being stated, and the quantities
of the various articles contained in each composition being
given either by weight or measure #, a precision never
before attempted in former cookery books, but which
I found indispensable, from the impossibility of guessing
the quantities intended by the usual obscure expressions
* The weights are avoirdupois; the measure, the gradu-
ated glass used by apothecaries, which appeared more accu-
rate and convenient than any, the pint being divided into six-
teen ounces, and the ounce into eight drachms : by a wine-
glass, is to be understood two ounces of apothecaries' liquid
measure; by a large or table spoonful, half an ounce; by a
small or tea spoonful, a drachm, or half a quarter of an ounce,
i. e. nearly equal to two drachms avoirdupois. At HANCOCK'S
glass warehouse, in Cockspur Street, Charing Cross, you may
get measures divided into tea and table spoons. No cook
should be without one, who wishes to be regular in her
business.
PREFACE.
employed for this purpose in former works; such' as, a
little bit of salt, a good bit of butter, a handful of this,
a pinch of that, a shake of pepper, a squeeze of lemon,
a dash of vinegar, a dust of flour, and season it to your
palate, (meaning the cook's,) which, if she has any, it is
very unlikely that it is in unison with that of her em-
ployers, as, by continually tasting piquante relishes,
it becomes blunted and insensible, and soon loses
the faculty of appreciating delicate flavours, so that every
thing is done at random.
These culinary technicals* are so differently estimated
by different cooks, and " the rule of thumb" is so ex-
tremely indefinite, that if the same dish be dressed by
two persons, it will generally be so unlike, that
nobody would imagine they had worked from the same
directions ; nor will they assist a person who has not
served a regular apprenticeship in the kitchen, more
than reading " Robinson Crusoe" would enable a sailor to
steer safely from England to India.
' ! " In the present language of cookery, there has been a
woeful departure from the simplicity of our ancestors; such a
farrago of unappropriate and unmeaning terms, many cor-
rupted from the French, others disguised from the Italian,
some nr supplied from the German, while many are a dis-
grace to the English. What can any person suppose to be
the meaning of a shoulder of lamb in epigram, ui.Ie'ss it vvere
a poor dish, fora pennyiess poet ? aspect of fall, would appear
calculated for an astrologer, and shoulder of mutton surprised^
designed for a sheep-stealer." A. C.junr.
B
PREFACE.
This carelessness in the cook is the more surprising,
as llic confectioner is regularly attentive, in the descrip-
tion of his preparations, to give the exact quantities*
though his business, compared to cookery, is as unim-
portant as the ornamental is inferior to the useful : yet
the maker of hlanchmange, custards, and trifles, amt
the endless and useless collection of pretly play-things
for the palate, is scrupulously exact, even to a grain, in
his ingredients, whilst the cooks affect to be most unin-
telligibly indefinite, although they are intrusted with the
administration of our food, upon the proper preparation
of which all our powers of both body and mind-depend ;
the energy being invariably in 'the ralio of the perform-
ance of the restorative process. Unless the stomach be
in good humour, every part of the machinery of life
will vibrate with languor.
We may compare the human frame to a watch, of
which the heart is the main spring, the stomach the re-
gulator, and what we put into it the key by which the
machine is set agoing; according to the quantity,
quality, and proper digestion of wha-t we eat and
drink, will be the pace of the pulse, and the action of
the system in general : and when a due proportion is
preserved between the quantum of exercise and that of
excitement, all goes well: when disordered, the same
expedients are employed for its readjustment as are
used by the watch maker; the machine requires to be
f;irt'fully cleaned, and then judiciously oiled.
PREFACE.
Thus does our health always, and the life often of
invalids, and those \vho have weak and infirm stomachs,
depend upon the skill of the cook. Our forefathers
were so well aware of this, that in days of yore no man of
consequence thought of making a day's journey without
taking his " Magister Coquorum" with him. The variety
of this talent in a high degree is so well understood,
thul besides very considerable pecuniary compensa-
tion, his Majesty's first and second cooks are now Es-
quires by their cilice ; and we have every reason to sup-
pose they were persons of equal dignity heretofore. In
Dr. Pegge's " Forme of Cury," Svo. London, 1780, we
read, that when Cardinal Otto, the pope's legate, was a-t
Oxford, A. D. 1248, his brother officiated as " Maghter
CoquinfC." This important post has always been held as
a situation of high trust and confidence, and the " Mag-
nus Coquus," chief cook, or Master- Kit chiner, has,
time immemorial, been an officer of considerable dig-
nity in the palaces of princes.
I believe it is a generally received opinion, which
the experience of every individual can confirm, that
the food we fancy most, appears to sit easiest on the
stomach: the functions of digestion must go on
more merrily when exercised by food we relish, than
when we eat merely because it is the usual hour of dining,
or swallow something out of necessity, to appease
the raging of the gastric juices.
Instinct speaks pretty plainly to those whose iustru-
PREFACE.
meats of digestion are in a delicate and impaired state,
and commonly pleads with more perfect truth (for those
materials they stand most in need of,) than any dietetic
rules that can be contrived.
To affirm that such a thing is wholesome, or un-
wholesome, without considering the subject in all the
circumstances which it bears relation to, is, with sub-
mission, talking nonsense *.
No regimen of life can be laid down that will suit
every body ; no food is so delicious that it pleases all
palates ; and nothing can be more correct than the old
adage, " one man's meat is another man's poison."
It would be as difficult for a Laplander to convince
our good citizens that train oil is a more elegant relish
* Cehus spoke very sensibly when he said, " that a healthy
man under his own government, ought not to tie himself up
by strict rules, nor to abstain from any sort of food; that he
ought sometimes to fast, and sometimes to feast.'' When ap-
plied to eating, nothing is more true than that
" Bonarum rerum, consuetude pessima est."
The author of this work wishes he had leisure to devote more
time to the subject. An ingenious chemist, and an intelligent
cook, might form a very complete work, by taking for their
text Dr. George Pearson's admirably ar anged catalogues
of food, drink, and seasoning; the most comprehensive and
learned abstract of this subject we have ever seen. This
epitome was printed for his Lectures on Therapeutics, &c.
which the author attended in 1801.
PREFACE.
.than their favourite turtle, as for the former to fancy
that Alderman Birch or Mr. Angell's soup can be as
agreeable, as the grease and garbage, which custom has
taught him to call delicious.
The cook, therefore, should be cautious of seasoning
high, and leave it to the eaters to add the condiments
according to their own palate and fancy : for this pur-
pose, " The Magazine of Taste," or " Sauce-box*" will
be found an invaluable acquisition, as its contents
will instantaneously produce any flavour that may be
desired.
I have a very good reason to give in support of my
doctrine, that what the appetite desires most, the sto-
mach will digest best, which is, that masticationf, the
* Vide No. 463.
f To chew long and leisurely is the only way to extract the
quintessence of our food, to completely enjoy the taste of it,
and to render it easily assimilable and convertible into lauda-
ble chyle, by the facility it gives to the gastric juices to dissolve
it without trouble. _The pleasure of the palate, and the
health of the stomach, are equally promoted by this salutary
habit, which ail should be taught to acquire in their infancy.
The more tender the meat is, the more we may eat of it.
From thirty to forty may be given as the mean number of
munches that solid meat requires, to prepare it for its journey
down the red lane, according to the tenderness of the meat ^
less will be sufficient for tender, delicate, and easily digest-
ible white meats. The sagacious gourmand must calculate
this precisely, and not waste his precious moments in useless-
PREFACE.
first act of the important process of digestion, is then
more perfectly performed ; because, as we naturally
detain trpon our palate those things which please it, the
food we relish most is consequently most broken down
by chewing, and most intimately incorporated with the
saliva.
To encourage the best performance of the machinery
of mastication, the cook must take care that her din-
ner is not only well dressed, but that each dish be sent
to table with its proper accompaniments in the neat-
est and most elegant manner.
jaw-work, or invite an indigestion by neglecting mastication.
I cannot give any rules for this, as it depends so much on the
strength or weakness of the subject, especially the state of the
teeth and maxillary glands : every one ought to ascertain the
condition of these useful working tools, and to use them with
proportionate diligence is an indispensable exercise which every
rational epicure will cheerfully perform, who has a, proper
regard for the welfare of his stomach." Almanack des Gonr-
O
mauds, vol. iii. page 249, &c. Mastication is the source of all
good digestion : with it almost any thing may be put into any
stomach with impunity : without it, digestion must be always
difficult, and frequently impossible : and be it remem-
bered, it is not merely what we eat, but what we digest well,
that nourishes us. The sagacious gourmand is ever mindful
ot his motto,
" Masticate, denticale, chump, grind, and szcullow :*'
The four first acts of which be knows be must perform \veH ? .
before he dare attempt the fifth, v
PREFACE.
Remember, that to excite the good opinion of the
eye, is the first step towards awakening the appetite.
Decoration is much more rationally employed in
rendering a plain, wholesome, and nutritious dish in-
viting, than in the elaborate embellishments which are
crowded about custards and trifles.
Not only the health and comfort of the family, but so
many other things are, of necessity, intrusted to her dis-
cretion, that an honest and frugal cook who knows her
business, and conscientiously studies the interest of her
employers, deserves every encouragement ; and if you
are not generous enough to give it to her in money, you
invite her to levy contributions on every article con-
fided to her care; and do not be surprised, should she
now and then strip your meat of its fat, crib your
candles, and cabbage your potatoes, to increase the
weight of the grease-pot. Depend upon it, " true
self-love and social are the same;" and I am always for
giving to those we are obliged to trust, every inducement
to be honest, and no temptations to play tricks.
" It is impossible for a cook in large families to attend
to her business in the kitchen with any degree of certain
perfection, if she is employed in other household con-
cerns. It is a service of such importance, and so diffi
cult to perform even tolerably well, that it is sufficient to
engross the entire devotion and attenlion of at least on
person. Yet, this is a maxim which is neither generally
understood nor admired in some families, where the
PREFACE,
cook is also expected to be a house servant, and coals are
meted out to her by the quart, and butter by the pat,
&c. : nevertheless, these unreasonable masters and mis-
tresses are surprised if most of their ragouts, and
sauces, &c. are spoiled ; and the roasts either burnt up,
or not half done ; but how can it be otherwise, when the
cook is obliged to be the slave of the bell ?" &c.
A good cook has really quite enough to do if she at-
tends perfectly to her own business ; and those who wish
to have their tables well served, must not require any
more of her, and are fortunate mortals if they regularly
obtain this. Mistress of her time, she will devote the
whole of it to her art; rising with the sun in winter,
and by six in summer, her first care will be to set
every thing to rights in her kitchen, see that all her
utensils are perfectly clean, and arrange them in their
proper places. This done, she puts on her soup-kettle,
and does not leave it till she has well skimmed it : she
will then go early to market, to have the opportunity of
selecting from those shops which have the best choice,
and charge reasonably. On her return home, she
will prepare the dinner according to the bill of fare
which she has settled with her master the evening
before ; prepare her made dishes, ragouts, c. &c.
for the second course; lard and trim the roasts; and, in
a word, get every thing ready in time, so that the ser-
vice may not meet with any obstruction.
When this time comes, she seasons her soup, garnishes
PREFACE.
all her dishes, and disposes them in the order they are
to appear in.
Besides understanding the management of the spit,
the stewpans, and the rolling-pin, a complete cook must
know how to go to market, write legibly, and keep
accounts: she must, moreover, have a full share of
cleanliness, good temper, and activity; never give herself
airs, but receive as the highest testimonies of her em-
ployers' regard, whatever observations they make on her
work, as the most unequivocal proofs of their desire to
make her thoroughly understand their taste, and retain
her in their service. She must entirely enter into all their
plans of economy, and endeavour to make the most of
every thing, as well for her own honour, as her master's
profit.
In those houses where the cook enjoys the confidence
of her master so much as to be intrusted with the care
of the store-room, which is not very common, she will
keep an exact account of every thing as it comes in, for
her own satisfaction, as well as that of her employer,
and will not trust the key of this room to any one; she
will also keep an account of every thing she takes from
it, and manage with as much consideration and fru-
gality as if it was her own property she was using, en-
deavouring to disprove the adage, that " plenty makes
waste." The honesty of a cook must be above all
suspicion : she should obtain, and (in spite of the
numberless temptations that daily oiler to bend her
PREFACE.
from it,) preserve a character of spotless integrity, re-
membering it is the fair price of independence, which all
wish for, but none without it can hope for : only a
fool or a madman will be so silly or so crazy as to expect
to reap where he has been too idle to sow.
If we now take a review of the qualifications* we
have set down as indispensable, to form that highly es-
timable domestic, " a complete, good cook," we shail find
how very few deserve that name. The majority of those
who set up for masters and mistresses of this art, are
grovelling, dirty creatures; selfish, and pilfering every
" * He must be endowed with a full portion of common
sense; quick and strong of sight ; his hearing most acute, that
he may be sensible when the contents of his vessels bubble,
although they be closely covered, and that he may be alarmed
before the pot boils over: his auditory nerve ought to discri-
minate (when several saucepans are in operation at the same
time,) the simmering of one, the ebullition of- another, and the
full toned wabbling of a third.
" It is imperiously requisite that his otgan of smell be highly
susceptible of the various effluvia, that his nose may distin-
guish the perfection of aromatic ingredients, and that in ani~
mal substances it shall evince a suspicious accuracy between
tenderness and putrefaction : above all, his olfactories should
be tremblingly alive tomustiness and empyreuma.
" It is from the exquisite sensibility of his palate, that we ad-
mire and judge of the cook; and from the alliance between the
olfactory and sapid organs it will be seen, that their perfection
is indispensable." A. C.junr.
PREFACE.
thing they can: others add indolence to insolence:
those who understand their business, (which are by far
the smallest number,) are too often either most ridicu-
lously saucy, or insatiably thirst} : in a word, a good
subject, in this class, is a rara avis indeed.
" Happy the master who finds a servant, who with a
proper knowledge of her business unites a zeal and
pride to perform it to the best of her abilities, and is,
moreover, honest and cleanly : for the rest, he must be
indulgent, and such a servant deserves to be treated
with some consideration. Give her liberal wages,
according to her deserts, and treat her with kindness,
but without familiarity : do not pass any dish without
observation, qualifying your censure by telling her,
" The reason why 1 point out faults SQ small,
Is, '<;ause 'tis better to have none at all."
When you make out the bill of fare for the next day,
lake every opportunity of encouraging her. Due praise
is the most agreeable reward a woman can receive, and
more gratifying than pecuniary compensation ; and
is the way to make a faithful servant, who will be a
treasure."
The foregoing observations are from the ingenious
French author we Jiave before quoted.
I have submitted (with no small pains,) to an atten-
tive perusal of every preceding work, connected with
the subject, that I could meet with ; in number amount-
PREFACE.
ing to no fewer than one hundred and seventeen. These
books vary but little from each other, except in the
prefatory matter: cutting and pasting seem to have
been much oftener employed than the pen and ink :
any one who has occasion to refer to two or three of
them, will fiud the receipts almost always " verbatim et
literatim ;" equally unintelligible to those who are igno-
rant of, and ustless to those who are acquainted with,
the business of the kitchen.
In my tedious progress through these books, I often
wished the authors had beeii satisfied with giving us
the results of their own practice and experience*, in-
* Thomas Carter, in the preface to his " City and Country
Cook,'" London, 1738, says, " What I have published, is al-
most the only book, one or two excepted, which oflate years
has come into the world, that has been the result of the
author's own practice and experience : for though very few
eminent practical cooks have ever cared to publish what they
knew of the art; yet they have been prevailed on, fora small
premium from a bookseller, to lend their names to perform-
ances in this art, unworthy their owning."
RobertMay,in the introduction to [\\s u Accomplished Cook"
1665, says, " To all honest and well-intending persons of my
profession, and others, this book cannot but be acceptable, as
it plainly and profitably discovers the mystery of the whole art;
for which, though I may be envied by some, that only value
their private interests above posterity and the public good ;
yet, (he adds,) God and my own conscience would not permit
me to bury these, my experiences, with my silver hairs in the
grave.
PREFACE.
stead of idly perpetuating the errors and prejudices of
their predecessors, by copying the strange, unaccount-
able, and uselessly extravagant farragos, and hetero-
geneous compositions*, which fill their pages; com-
binations which no rational being would ever think
of either dressing or eating, and without having
applied both these tests, and ascertaining the practica-
bility of preparing their receipts, and their ealahility
when done, they should never have ventured to recom-
mend them to others ; so that the reader may put the
same queer e, as Jeremy, in Congreve's comedy of
" Love for Love," when Valentine observes, "There's a
page doubled down in Epictetus, that is a feast for an
emperor." - Jer. Was Epictetus a real cook, or did
he only write receipts 7"
Half of these books are made up with pages cut out of
obsolete works, such as the " Choice Manuel of Secrets J*
the " True Gentlewoman's Delight," &c. of as much
use, in this age of refinement, as the following curious
quotation from " The Accomplished Lady's rich Closet of
Rarities, or ingenious Gentlewoman's Delightful Com-
panion" 12mo., London, 1653, chapter 7, page 42:
*' A gentlewoman being at table, abroad or at home,
* To farce (the culinary technical for to stuff,} a boiled leg of
mutton with red herrings and garlick, and many other receipts
fas high a relish ; and easy of digestion as the devils venison,
i. e. a roasted tiger stuffed withtenpenny nails.
PREFACE.
must observe to keep her body straight, and lean not
by any means with her elbows, nor by ravenous gesture
discover a voracious appetite ; take not in your wine too
greedily, nor drink not till you are out of breath, but
do things with decency and order, gnaw no bones, keep
your fingers from your mouth, throw not any thing
over your shoulders :" with the addition of what they
call " a choice collection of excellent and approved
family receipts of sovereign efficacy in all manner of
maladies:" the proper appellation for which would be,
" a dangerous budget of medical vulgar errors ;" com-
monly concluding with a bundle of extracts from " The
Gardener's Calendar," " The Vintner's Fade Mecum,"
and " The Publican's Daily Companion" But let us
remember, that
" One science only will one genius fit,
So wide is art, so narrow human wit. v
And without interfering- with the physician or the
gardener, the publican or the vintner, our Book will be
confined to the business of the kitchen, to endeavour to
improve the ignorant, and remind the skilful, how and
when to make the best and the most of every thing. I
have taken very great pains to teach the young cook how
to perform, in the best manner, the common business of
her profession ; and being well grounded in that, she
will find it easy to do all the rest to satisfaction, and
will be able to shew, that an English girl, properly in-
PREFACE.
structed, can equal the best foreign gentleman in
every thing, except impudence and extravagance, and
send up a delicious dinner with half the usual expense
and trouble. I have endeavoured to lessen the labour
of those who wish to be thoroughly acquainted with
their profession ; and they will find, that an attentive
perusal of the following pages will save them much of
the irksome drudgery attending an apprenticeship at
the stove ; an ordeal so severe, that few pass it with-
out irreparable injury to their health, whilst many lose
their lives before they learn their business. " Cleanliness,
and a proper ventilation to carry off smoke and steam,
should be particularly attended to in the construction
of a kitchen ; and the grand scene of action, the fire-
place, should be placed where it may receive plenty of
light : hitherto the contrary has prevailed, and the poor
cook is continually basted with his own perspiration."
A. C. Junr.*
* A good dinner is one of the greatest enjoyments of human
life; and the practice of cookery is attended with not only so
many disgusting and disagreeable circumstances, but even
dangers, that we ought to have some regard for those who en-
counter them for our pleasure, and to reward their attention,
by rendering their situation every way as agreeable and com-
fortable as we can, for mere money is not a sufficient com-
pensation to a complete cook.
To say nothing of the deleterious vapours and exhalations
of the charcoal, which soon undermine the health of the
b
PREFACE.
t
I biive here done my utmost candidly to communi-
cate, in as clear and intelligible a manner as I am able,
heartiest, the glare of a vivid scorching fire, and the smoke
so baneful to the eyes and the complexion : these are conti"
nual and inevitable dangers, and a cook, must live in the
inidst of them, as a soldier in a field of battle, surrounded by
bullets, and bombs, and Congreve's rockets ; with this
only difference, that for the first, every day is a fighting day,
that his warfare is almost always without glory,' and his
most praiseworthy achievements pass not only without re-
ward, but frequently without even thanks ; for the name of
the most consummate cook is, alas! seldom heard by the
guests who frequent his master's table; who, while they are
eagerly devouring his turtle, and drinking his wine, care very
little who dressed the one, or sent the other.
The master who wishes to enjoy the rare luxury of a table
regularly well served in the best style, must treat his cook
as his friend, and watch over his health * with (he tenderest
care, and especially be sure his taste docs not suffer from his
stomach being deranged by bilious attacks, &c.
The most experienced artists cannot be sure of their work
without tasting ; they must be incessantly tasting; and the
spoon of a good cook is continually passing from the stewpans
to his tongue; for nothing but fiequent tasting his sauces,
ragouts, &c., can discover to him what progress they
* The greatest care should be taken by the man of fashion,
that his cook's health be preserved : . one hundredth part of
the attention usually bestowed on his dog, or his horse, will
suffice, to regulate his animal system. A. C. Junr.
PREFACE.
the whole truth of the heretofore abstruse mysteries of
the culinary art ; herein, I hope, so plainly developed,
have made, or enable him to season the soup with any cer-
tainty of success : his palate, therefore, must be in the highest
state of excitability, that the least fault may be perceived
by it.
But, alas ! the constant envpyreumatic fumes of the stoves,
the necessity of frequent drinking, and often of bad beer, to
moisten a parched throat ; in short, every thing around him
conspires quickly to vitiate the organs of taste : the palate
becomes blunted, its quickness of feeling and delicacy, on
which the sensibility of the organs of taste depends, grows
daily .more obtuse, and in time becomes quite indurated, and
the gustatory nerves unexcitable and unmoveable.
When you find your cook neglect his business, that his ragonts
are too highly spiced or salted, and his cookery has too much of
the" haut gout," you may be sure that bis index of i; ste wants
regulating, that his palate has lost its sensibility, and that it is
timeto call in the assistance of the apothecary, who will prepare
him well, by two days' aqueous diet, and give him a purging
potion, composed ofmanna, senna., and salts, regulating the
dose according to the greater or less insensibility of his palate ;
give him a day's rest, and then purge him again; let him have
two days' rest after his second dose of physic, and you tnay
then hope to have at the head of your stoves a man
altogether renovated.
This receipt, to ensure good cheer, is no joke, but the actual
practice in those kitchens where the master is proud of the re-
b2
PREFACE.
that the most ignorant student in the occult art of
cookery may comprehend and work from my receipts
with the utmost facility : and thus they will soon acquire
the enviable art of adorning the table with that splendid
frugality which cannot fail to give every possible satis-
faction.
I am well aware of the extreme difficulty of the task
I have undertaken, in attempting to teach those who are
entirely unacquainted with the subject, and to convey
iny ideas correctly by mere receipts to those who have
had no opportunity of seeing the work performed ; and
in my anxiety to be readily understood, I have, perhaps,
been under the necessity of occasionally repeating the
same directions in different parts of the book : however,
I chose rather to be censured for repetition, than for
omission or obscurity.
putation ofhis table. All great cooks submit to the operation
without a murmur; to prevent which, it should be made the
first condition in hiring them. Those who refuse, prove
they were not born to become masters of their art ; and their
indifference to fame will rank them, as they deserve, among
those stupid slaves, who pass their lives in as much obscurity
as their own stewpans.
To the preceding observations from the " Almanack des
Gourmands" we may add, that the Mouthician will have
a still better chance of success, if he can prevail on his master
to ebserte the same regime which he orders for his cook.
PREFACE*
It has been customary to fill a certain number of
pages with " proper rules to be observed in market-
ing" iu knowing and buying poulterers', fishmongers',
and butchers' ware, giving a true insight into the
mystery of each; and, indeed, all the skill of the most
accomplished cook will avail nothing, unless she is
furnished with prime provisions. The best way to pro-
cure these is to deal with shops of established charac-
ter : you may pay, perhaps, ten or fifteen per cent more
than you would were you to deal with those who pre-
tend to sell cheap, but you will be more than in propor-
tion better served. Every trade has its tricks and de-
ceptions, and those who follow them can deceive you
if they please, and are too apt to do so if you provoke
the exercise of their over-reaching talent, and challenge
them to a game at " catch who can," by entirely rely-
ing on your own judgment: which nothing but very
long experience can make equal to the combat of mar-
keting to the utmost advantage.
THE BEST RULE FOR MARKETING, is to pay ready
money for every thing, and to deal with the most respect-
able tradesmen in your neighbourhood ; and if you leave
it to their integrity to supply you with a good article, at
the fair market price, (I have, from my own experience,
every reason to believe,) you will be supplied with
better provisions, at as reasonable a rale, as those bar-
gain hunters who trot around around around about a
market, till they are trapped to buy some unchewable old
b3
PREFACE.
poujtry*, starved tough mutton, stringy beef, or stale fish,
(at a little less than the price of prime and proper food:;)
* COURT OF REQUESTS, Tuesday, Nov. 5
HOWARD V. PHILLIPS.
This was a case of some importance to the public. The
defendant, a walking poulterer, was summoned by the plaia-
tiff, a widow lady residing near the Asylum, to shew cause
why he did not pay back to her four shillings, which he had ob-
tafned from her under false representations. The plaintiff
stated, that the defendant called at her house on Wednesday
last,. and inquired if she wanted a fine fowJ r as he had some
he could recommend. She desired he would select her one she
might depend upon as being young and good. He accord-
ingly picked our one which he said he could recommend a$
being a young one, and she took it upon his recommendation,
and paid him four shillings. At dinner, however, to her great
dismay, on attempting to curve this delicate young chicken,
the discovered that so great an attachment had the bones and
joints formed to each other from long acquaintance, that they
success full}' resisted all her attempts to separate them, and
she was obliged to give over the attempt. A favourite pug-
-dog was then allowed to commence his operations upon the
breast, byt so thick was the skin, and so solid the flesh, that
he, after much labour, found himself foiled, as his mistress
had been before him. On the following clay the plaintiff
applied to the defendant, sending back the fragments of the
young chicken, and desiring to have her money back again;
but the defendant positively refused either to receive back
his property, or to refund the money he had received ; upon
which refusal, the plaintiff summoned him.
PREFACE.
with these they toddle home in triumph, cackling all the
way, like a goose that has got ankle deep into good lucfc.
. Mrs. Howard's servant corroborated her statement, and
added, that defendant, as he was quitting the house, desired
her to boil the fowl double the time her mjstress told her,
because it was a large one. It was accordingly boiled more
than double the usual time.
The defendant did not attempt to deny that the fowl was
an old one, but said, he was himself deceived by the person
of whom he purchased it, and the plaintiff having seen it be-
.fore she paid for it, could not complain of any imposition
being practised upon her.
The Court, however, decided that the defendant should re-
fund the four shillings, and pay all the costs. It was plain,
that when he sold the fowl he was aware of the imposition he
was practising. He had given evidence of this himself, by de,-
siring the servant to boil it longer than the usual time. At
the same time, however, that the Court thus gave judgment
against the defendant, they could not avoid censuring, to a
certain extent, the plaintiff, and_ all those who encouraged
persons of the defendant's description, by dealing with them.
Little doubt could exis. ia the mind of any one, that most of
the fowls thus hawked about the streets were stolen, at least by
those who sold them to the hawkers; and whilst the thieves
could fmd so ready a market for their plunder, there was
little chance that the robbing of fowl-houses would be put
an end to.
The defendant being informed, that unless the debt and
costs were immediately paid, an execution would forthwith
issue against him, paid the sum demanded, and departed.
b 4
PREFACE.
, If you have a well-ventilated larder, iu a shady, di y
situation, you will ensure much credit to yourself by
ordering in your meat and poultry such a time before
you want it as will render it tender, which the finest
meat cannot be, unless hung a proper time ; (see obser-
vations on roasting ;) longer or shorter, according to the
season and nature of the meat, &c., but always till it
has made some advance towards putrefaction ! The ten-
dency to that takes place the moment that life is extin-
guished. The allowing this process to proceed to a cer-
tain degree, renders the meat more easy of solution in
the stomach, without diminishing the nutritious quality
of it. Before you go to market* look over your larder,
and it will save you much time and trouble to make
out a list of the several articles you want, because when
once your kitchen business is begun, you must never
leave off till it is finished ; if you have forgotten any
article indispensable for the day's dinner, request your
employers to send one of the servants for it: the cook
must never quit her post till her work is complete.
It is not expected that the most expert artist can per-
form his work in a perfect manner, without a sufficient
number of proper instruments : you cannot have neat
work without nice tools; nor can your victuals be well
dressed without an apparatus appropriate to the work
* Especially on a Saturday. No well-regulated family
must suffer the disorderly caterer to be jumping in and out to
the chandler's shop on a Sunday morning,
PREFACE.
required : it will be to little purpose to provide good
provisions, without proper utensils * to prepare them in ;
therefore, after a few words of Advice to Cooks f, I
begin my book with a catalogue of such articles of
kitchen furniture as are indispensably necessary, in a
moderate-sized family of five or six people, who occa-
sionally entertain half a dozen friends.
' " A surgeon may as well attempt to open a vein with an
oyster knife, as a cook pretend to dress a dinner without pro-
per tools to do it." Preface to VERALL'S Cookery, 8vo. Lon-
don, 1759, page vi.
f A chapter of Advice to Cooks we hope will be found as
useful as it is original : all we have on this subject in the works
of our predecessors is the following : " I shall strongly re-
commend to all cooks of either sex, to keep their stomachs
free from strong liquors, and their noses from snuff." Vide
CLERMOKT'S Professed Cook, page 30, 8vo- London, 1776..
ADVICE TO COOKS.
ON your first coming into a family, lose no time in im-
mediately getting into the good graces of your fellow-
servants, that you may learn from them the customs of
the kitchen, and the various rules and orders of the
house; especially take care to be on good terms with
the servant who waits at table ; you will then hear how
your work has pleased in the parlour, and be enabled
to rectify any mistake: also request the favour of an in-
terview with your employers, and beg of them to ex-
plain to you, as fully as possible, how they like their
victuals dressed, whether much or little done, and of
what complexion they wish the roasts, of a gold
colour, or well browned, and if they like them frothed ;
of the soups and sauces, do they like them thick or
thin, pr white or brown, clean or full in the mouth,
and what flavours they fancy, especially of spice and
herbs ; for it is impossible the most accomplished cook
can please their palates, till she has first learned their
ADVICE TO COOKS.
particular taste* : always avoid over-dressing, or over-
* " De gustibus non est disputandum." Tastes are as dif-'
ferent as faces, and without a most attentive observation of
the directions given by her employers, the most experienced
cook will never get any credit; It will not go far to pacify the
rage of a ravenous gourmand, who liket his mutton chop
broiled till its juice is quite dried up, to be told that some of
the customers at Dolly's chop-house choose to have them only
half done, and that this is the best way of eating them : I be-
lieve we all think that is the best way which we relish best,
and which agrees best with our stomachs : in this, reason and
fashion, all powerful as they are on most occasions, yield to
the imperative caprice of the palate.
-
" The Irishman loves usquebaugh; the Scot loves ale,
called blue cap ;
" The Welshman lie loves toasted cheese, and makes his
mouth like a mouse trap."
Our Italian neighbours now eat many things we think car-
rion. Vide RAY'S Travels, page 362 and 406. While the
Englishman boasts of his beef, the Frenchman dresses his
favourite frog and soup, the Tartar feasts on horseflesh, and the
Chinaman on dogs ; and what at one time, or in one country,
is considered as beautiful, fragrant, or savoury, is at another
time or place regarded as deformed and disgustful*.
* Assafcetida was called, by the ancients, "food for the
Gods." The Persians, Indians, and other eastern people, now
eat it in sauces, and call it expressly by that name: while
the Germans call it " Devils* Dung. 7 ' See POMET on Drug* y
4to. London, 1744.
ADVICE TO COOKS.
seasoning, as it is a fault that cannot be mended*. It 'will
save you infinite trouble and anxiety if you can prevail
on your employers to use the " SAUCE-BOX," No. 4G3,
hereinafter described in the chapter of sauces. With the
help of this " delicious magazine of taste," every one in
company may flavour their soup and sauce, and adjust
the vibrations of their palate, exactly to their own
fancy : if the cook give a decided predominant and
piquante flavour to a dish, to tickle the tongue of two
or three visitors whose taste she knows, perhaps she
may thereby make the dinner disgusting to all the other
guests. Never undertake more work than you are
quite certain you can do to perfection ; and if you are
ordered to prepare a larger dinner than you think you
can send up with ease and neatness, or dress any dish
you are not acquainted f with, rather than run the risk
of spoiling a single dish, by which, perhaps, you may
lose all your credit, request your employers to let you
have some help, for it requires no small care and con-
* If your roasts and boils are a little under-done, the stew-
pan or the gridiron can soon repair the mistake of the spit or
the pot.
f And such is the endless variety of culinary preparations,
^ it would be as vain and fruitless a search as that for the philo-
sopher's stone, to expect to find a cook who was equally per-
fect in all the operations of the spit, the stewpan, and the
folling-pin.
ADVICE TO COOKb.
trivance to have all things done as they should be, and
all hot together, and
" A feast must be without a fault ;
And, if 'tis not all right, 'tis naught.'*
But
" Good nature must some failings overlook,
Forgive mischance, not errors of the cook
As, if no salt is thrown about the dish,
Or nicecrisp'd parsley scatter'd on the fish;
Shall we in passion from our dinner fly,
And hopes of pardon to the cook deny,
For things which Mrs. Glasse herself might oversee,
And all mankind commit as well as she?"
Vide KING'S Art of Cookery. .
Take care to begin your business betimes, or it will
be impossible to have your dinner ready at the time it is
ordered* : to be half an hour after the time, is so frequent
* In a note of invitation to dinner, five o'clock seems to be
generally understood to mean at six; five precisely, half past five;
and five most precisely, (so that dinner may be on the table
within ten minutes after,) five o'clock exactly, (allowing this for
the variation of watches.) If the guests have any respect
for their host, or prefer a well-dressed dinner to one that
is spoilt, instead of coming half an hour after, they will
take care to make their appearance before the time
appointed : the dinner that would have been most excellent
at five, must be uneatable if not sent to table till half past
five : the operations of the cook are governed by the clock,
and the moment the roasts, &c. are ready, they must go to
table, if they are to be eaten in perfection. It is the least
ADVICE TO COOKS.
a fault, that there is the more merit attached in being
ready at the appointed hour*. This is certainly some-
times a rather difficult task to perform ; and in the best
regulated families you can only be sure of your time
by thus properly arranging your business f.
Remember to hare your kitchen chimney swept once
a month ; many good dinners have been spoiled by
the soot falling.
punishment that a blundering ill-bred Booby can receire, who
comes half an hour after the time he zcas bidden, to find the
soup removed, and the fish cold.
* Those who desire regularity in the service of their table,
should have a DIAL, of not less than twelve inches diameter,
placed over the kitchen fire-place, carefully regulated, to keep
time exactly with the clock in the hall or dining parlour ; with
a frame on one side, containing A TASTE TABLE, or the pecu-
liarities of the master's palate, and the particular rules and
orders of his kitchen; and on the other side, of the rewards
given to those who attend to them, and for long service.
f With all our love of punctuality, we must not forget tfiat
the first consideration must still be, that the dinner " be well
done when 'tis done." If any accident occurs, which is likely
to prevent your sending the soup, &c. to table at the mo-
ment it is expected, send up a message to your employers,
stating the circumstance, and bespeak their patience for as
many minutes as you think you shall want to be ready.
This is certainly better than either keeping the company
waiting without any apology, or dishing your dinner before it
is done enough, and so disgusting the stomachs of the guests
at the first appearance of it.
ADVICE TO COOKS.
When you have a very large entertainment to pre-
pare, first attend to your broths and gravies for your
soups and sauces, and by all means get these ready
the day before. The pastry, jellies, &c. you may
prepare while the broths are doing; then truss vour
game and poultry, and trim and shape your collops,
cutlets, &c., and put them in plates, and arrange
them upon the dresser in regular order: next see that
your roasts and boils are all nicely trimmed, trussed,
and singed, and quite ready for the spit or the por.
Get all your vegetables neatly cut, pared, picked, and
clean washed in the cullender: provide a tin dish to
hold your fiue herbs ; onions and shallots, parsley,
marjoram, thyme, tarragon, chervil, and burnet,
minced very fine, and lemon-peel grated, or cut thin,
and chopped very small, pepper and salt ready mixed,
and your spice-box * and salt-seller always at hand, so
* In one drawer under your spice-hox keep ready ground,
in two ounce stopper bottles, the several spices, separate; and
also that mixture of them we have called " Ilagout Powder;''
in another keep your dried and powdered sweet savoury and
soup-herbs, &c., and a set of weights and scales : you may
have a third drawer, containing your flavouring essences, &c.,
an invaluable auxiliary in finishing soups and sauces : (see the
account of the " MAGAZINE OF TASTE/' or " SAUCE-BOX,"
No. 463, in the chapter on sauces :) have also ready some
thickening, made of the best white flour sifted, mixed with
soft water with a wooden spoon till it is the consistence of
thick batter, a bottle of plain browning, and a bottle of
strained lemon-juice.
ADVICE TO COOKS.
that every thing you want may be ready for your stove-
work, and you need not be scampering about the
kitchen, hunting after these trifles, while the dinner is
waiting : nothing can be done in perfection, that must
be done in a hurry ; therefore, if you wish the dinner
to be sent up to please your master and mistress, and
do credit to yourself, set a high value on your charac-
ter for punctuality: this shows the establishment is
orderly, is extremely gratifying to the master and his
guests, and most praiseworthy in the attendants.
" But, remember, you cannot obtain this desirable re-
" putation without good management in every respect?
" and if you wish to ensure ease and comfort in the lat-
" ter part of your life, you must not be unwilling to pay
" the price for which only they can be obtained, and
" earn them by a diligent and faithful performance of
" the duties of your station in your young days, which,
if you steadily persevere in, you may depend upon
ultimately receiving the reward your services deserve^
Quiet steady perseverance is the only sure spring to
infallibly promote your progress on the road to inde-
pendence : and if your employers do not immediately
appear to be sensible of your endeavours to contribute
your utmost to their comfort and interest, be not
easily discouraged, persevere steadily in the right
path; patiently and conscientiously attend to your
" duties; and those you serve must soon discover the
" inestimable value of such a faithful and intelligent
<c prime minister in their kitchen."
tt
<t
tt
tt
it
tt
TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.
To reduce our culinary operatioua to as exact a
certainty as the nature of liie processes would admit
of, we have, wherever it was needful, given the
quantities of each article, The weights, avoirdupoise.
The measure. The liquid graduated measure of the
apothecaries, as it appeared more accurate and con-
venient than any other, the pint being divided into
sixteen ounces, the ounce into eight drachms : a mid-
dling size teaspoon will contain about a drachm ; four
such teaspoons are equal to a middling size, large, or
tablespoon, or half an ounce ; four tablespoons, to a
common-sized wineglass. The specific gravities of
the various substances being so extremely different,
we cannot offer any auxiliary standards* for the
weights, which we earnestly recommend the cook to
employ, if she wishes to gain credit for accuracy
and uniformity in her business : these she will iind it
necessary to have as small as the quarter of a drachm
avoirdupoise, which is equal to nearly seven grains
troy weight.
* A large tablespoonful of flour weighs about half an ounce.
TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.
Glass measures, divided into tea and table spoons,
and containing from an ounce to half a pint, may be
bad at HANCOCK'S Glass Warehouse, Charing Cross;
and at PRICK'S, near Exeter Change, Strand; where
may also be had double-headed pepper and spice
boxes, \vith caps over the gratings. The superiority of
these, by preserving the contents from the action of
the air, must be sufficiently obvious to everyone : the
fine flavour of Cayenne pepper is soon lost, from the
Lotties it is usually kept in not being well stopped.
CONTENTS.
BOILING,
General Rules.
Loss of weight by boiling
and other modes of cook-
ery.
Leg of MUTTON .... 1
Neck of Mutton ... 2
To Boil LAMB .... 3
To Boil VEAL .... 4
Be.efBouillie .... 5
* To salt Beef and Pork . 6
Boil a Round ofsaltedBiEF 7
H-Bone ofBeef ... 8
Ribs of Beef salted and roll-
ed 9
To Boil a Calf's Head . 10
- Pickled Pork . . . .11
Pigs' Pettitoes . . . .12
Bacon 13
Ham 14
/ Tongue 15
Fowls 16
Rabbits 17
i Tripe 18
ROASTING.
General Observations.
S rloin of Beef . . . .19
Ribs, of Beef- 20
Ribs of Beef boned and
rolled , 21
so.
Rump of Beef . , r . 23
Observations on Roasting
MUTTON .. . . . . 23
DEAN SWIFT'S Receipt.
A Leg -24
A Chine 25
A Saddle 26
A Shoulder 27
A Loin 28
A Neck 29
A Breast ...... 30
A Haunch 31
MuttoH, Venison fashion . 32
Observations- on Roasting
VEAL 53
Fillet of Veal . . . .34
A Loin 3^
A Shoulder 36
Neck, best end . . . .37
Breast 38
Veal Sweetbread ... 39
Observations on Roasting
Lamb 40
Hiad Quarter . . . .41
Fore Quarter . . . .42
Leg . 43
Shoulder 44
Ribs . * * . . . . 4a
Loin 46"
Neck .....-.-. . .47
-.',,>. - .48
CONTENTS.
NO.
Observations on Roasting
Pork 49
A Leg 50
Leg of Pork roasted with-
out the Skin, or Mock
Goose 51
The Griskin 52
Bacon, Sparerib . . .53
Loin 54
A Chine 55
Roast Pig ..... 56
Turkey 57
Capons or Fowls ... 58
Goose 59
Green Goose .... 60
Duck . . 61
Observations on dressing
Game . . . . . .62
Recipe for Sauce to Wild
Fowls.
Haunch of Venison . . 63
Neck and Shoulder of Ve-
nison 64
Fawn 65
Hare . 66
Jlabbit 67
Pheasant 68
Mock Pheasant. .... 69
Partridges 70
Black Cock 71
Moor Game 72
Grouse 73
\VildDucks 74
Widgeons and Teal . .75
Woodcock 76
Snipes 77
Roast Pigeons .... 78
Pigeons on a poor man's
spit 79
Larks, and other small birds 80
Wheat Ears 81
Lobster . . ,82
83
84
85
86
87
88
NO.
FRYING.
General Observations.
To clarify Drippings . .
To melt Suet ...
Rump Steaks ....
Beef Steaks and Onions
Sausages ....
Sweetbreads full dressed
Sweetbreads plain . . 89
Veal Cutlets ... 90
Veal Cutlets full dressed 91 -
Lamb, or Mutton Chops 92
Pork Chops .... 93
BROILING.
General Observations.
BeefSteaks .... 94
Kidneys ..... 95
The Inside of a Sirloin of
Beef 96
Fowl or Chicken ... 97
Pigeons 98
VEGETABLES.
General Observations.
Potatoes . . . . 102
Potatoes boiled and broil-
ed . 103
Potatoes fried in slices . 104
Potatoes fried whole . . 105
Potatoes mashed . . . 106
Potatoes mashed with
Onions 107
Escalloped Potatoes . . 108
Roast Potatoes . . . 109
RoastPotatoesunderMeat 110
Potatoe Balls . . . .111
Savoury Potatoe Balls . 112
Casserole of Potatoes . 113
Potatoe Snow . . . .114
CONTENTS.
Watery Potatoes .
New Potatoes . . .
Jerusalem Artichokes
Cabbage . . .
Boiled Cabbage fried
Savoys . . . .
Sprouts . . . .
Spinach
115
116
117
118
120
121
122
123
124
125
126
127
128
120
130
131
132
133
134
135
136
137
133
Asparagus ....
Sea Kail
Cauliflower . . : .
Brocoli . . . .
Red Beet Roots . .
Parsnips ....
Carrots
Turnips . . . . .
Mashed Turnips .
Turnip-tops . .
French Beans . . .
Green Peas . . .
Cucumber Stewed
Artichokes ....
Stew Onions
Roast Onions .
FISH.
General Observations.
To Boil Turbot . . .140
Dutch method of Boiling
Turbot 141
To Fry Turbot . . .142
To dress Krill . . . .143
To Boil Soles . . . .144
To Fry Soles . . . .145
To Stew Soles . . . . 146
Fillets of Soles Fried . . 147
Fillets of Soles, White . 148
Cod Boiled 149
Salt Fish Boiled . . .150
Slices of Cod Boiled . . 151
Codlings Broiled . . . 152
Whitings Fried . . . 153
:xo.
Skate Fried 154
Plaice or Flounders Fried 155
Watar Souchy .... 156
Haddocks Boiled . . . 157
Carp Stewed .... 158
Perch Fried . , .159
Perch Boiled .... 160
Salmon Pickled . . .161
Salmon Boiled .... 162
Salmon Broiled . . .163
Eels Stewed, Wiggy's way 164
Eels Fried . . . . , 165
Eels Spitchcocked . . 166
Mackarel Boiled . . .167
Mackarel Soused . . .168
Mackarel Broiled . . .169
Mackarel Baked . . . 170
Mackarel Pickled . .171
Sprats Broiled . . . *170
Herrings Broiled . . *171
ii?rrings Soused . . . 172
Smelts Fried . . . . 173
Shrimps'Pickled,the Ame-
rican way .... 174
Shrimps Potted . , .175
Lobster Boiled . . . 17<3
Crab . ... . . .177
Lobster Potted . . .178
Lobster Cake .... 179
Lobster Pudding . . . 180
Oysters 181
Oysters Scolloped . . 182
Oysters Stewed , . . . *182
Mr. Win. TUCKER'S Ob-
servations on Fish.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND
SOUPS.
General Observations.
Beef Broth 185
Beef Gravy 186
Beef Broth, for Glaze. . 187
CONTENTS.
NO.
Strong Beef Gravy . .188
BeefCullis 189
Family Soup . . . . 1 90
Veal Broth . . . . i 191
Veal Gravy . . . .192
Knuckle of Veal Soup . 193
Mutton Broth .... 194
Mock Mutton Broth . . 195
Queen's morning Broth . 196
Hodge Podge .... 197
Ox-heelJelly .... 198
Jelly Broth of fragments 199
Clear Gravy Soup . . 200
Shin of Beef Soup . . . 201
Harrico Mutton Soup . 202
Mutton Broth with Cut-
lets 203
Scotch Barley Broth . * 204
Scotch Leek Soup . . 205
Rice Soup ..... 206
Potatoe Soup . . . . 207
Turnip Soup . ,. . , 208
Turnip Soup .... 209
Turnip Soup, the French
way 210
Carret and Turnip Soup 211
Carrot Soup . . . .212
Parsnip Scrip . . . . 213
Celery Soup . . . .214
White Harrico Bean Soup 215
Green Pease Soup . .216
Green Pease Soup without
Meat 217
Pease ^oup 218
Pease Soup without Meat 219
Pease Soup with Pickled
Pork . ... . . 220
Plain Pease Soup . . . 291
Asparagus Soup . . . 222
Water Soup .... 223
Maigre Gravy Soup . . 224
NO.
Fish Soup ..... 225
Onion Soup Maigre . . 226
Brown Soup Maigre . . 227
Soup-Herb Soup in twenty
minutes ... . . 228
Soon made Savoury Soup 229
Dripping Soup .... 230
Vermicelli Soup . . . 231
Vermicelli Soup, White . 232
Maccaroni Soup . . . 233
Maccaroni Soup, the new
way . ... . . 534
Cray Fish Soup . . . 235
Prawn, or Shrimp Soup . 236
Lobster Soup . ... 237
Soup and Bouilli . . . 238
Ox Cheek Soup . ' . .239
Ox Tail Soup . , / . 240
Hare Soup . . . . ,241
-Partridge Soup . . . 242
Soup without Water . . 243
Giblet Soup .... 244
Mock Mock Turtle . . 245
Mock Turtle ' . . . . 246 -
Mock Turtle . . : . 247
English Turtle Soup . . 248
Malaga Tawny Soup . . 249
Turtle Soup .... 250
Turtle Fins.
Mock Turtle Soup . .251
Portable Soup .... 252
To Clarify Broth, &c. . *252
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
General Obserrations.
Observations on Melted
Butter ..... 254
ZF.ST 255
Melted Butter .... 256 -.
Thickening 257
^avoury Thickening . . 258
CONTENTS;
NO.
Clarified Butter . . . 259
Burnt Butter .... 260
Pars ley and Butter . .24)1
Mock Parsley Sauce . . 262
Gooseberry Sauce . . 263
Chervil and Butter . . 264
Fennel and Butter, for
Mackarel, &c. . . . 265
Mackarel Hoe Sauce . . 266
Egg Sauce . . . . . 267
Pudding Sauce ... . 268
Plumb Pudding Sauce .269
Anchovy Sauce . . . 2TO
Anchovy Sauce, for Roast
Meat . . ... .271
Garlick Sauce . .... .. 272
Lemon Sauce . . . '. 273
Caper Sauce . . . . 274
Mock Caper Sauce . .275
Dutch $our Sauce, for
Ftt rA
ish . 27t>
Cream Sauce, for Fish . 277
Oyster Sauce . . . .278
Pickled Oyster Sauce . 279
Bottled Oyster.Sauce . 280
Cockle Sauce . . . .281
Muscle Sauce .... 282
Shrimp Sauce .... 283
Lobster Sauce .... 284
Sauce for Lobster, &c. . 285
Crab Sauce .... 286
Liver and Parsley Sauce 287
Lemon and Liver Sauce 288
Celery Sauce, White . . 289
Celery Sauce, Brown . 290
Sorrel Sauce . * . .291
Tomata, or Love Apple
Sauce . . . . . .29
Mock Tomata Sauce . 293
Shallot Sauce .... 291
Shallot Sauce, for Boiled
Mutton . .295
NO.
Young Onion Sauce . . 29$
Onion Sauce t . 297
3niou Sauce .... 298
Fried. Onion Sauce . . 299
Sage and Onion Sauce . 300
Portugal. Onion Sauce . 301
airier Sauce . . . . 302
Mint Sauce .... 303
Appla Sauce , . . . 304
Mushroom Sauce . . . 305
Mushroom Sauce, Brown 306
Italian Sauce with Mush-
rooms 307
Italian Ramolade . . . 308
Italian Ilaraolade, hot . 309
Poor Man's. Sauce . .310
Garlick Gravy . . . .311
Mr. Michl.KEi.LY.'s Sauce
for Boiled Calf's Head,
orCowheel.
Mr. KELLY'S Sauce Pi-
quante
Ravigotte Sauce . . .313
Burnet Sauce . . . .313
Tarragon Sauce . . .314.
Herb .Sauce. Piquante . 315
Truffle Sauce . . . .316
Fried Parsley . . . .317
Crisp. Parsley . . . ; S13
Fried. Bread Sippets . . 319
Fried. Bread Crumbs . . 32O
Bread Sauce . . . . 321
Plain Browning . , .- 322
Greening 323
Red , . . . . . . 304.
Yellow . . . . . . 325
Gravy, for Roast Meat . 326
Gravy, for Boiled Ment .597
Wow Wow Sauce, for
BouilHBeef . . . 328
To make Gravy.
Beef Gravy Sauca .
CONTENTS.
NO.
Ragout Sauce, or strong
Beef Gravy with Mush-
rooms ... , . . 330
Onion Gravy .... 331
Maigre Gravy .... 332
Fish'Gravy . . . . .333
Gravy Sauce for Poultry,
without Meat . . . 334
Mock Gravy Sauce . . 335
Soup-Herb,and soon made.
Savoury Sauce . . . 336
Gravy Sauce, for Game . 337
Orange Gravy Sauce, for
Wild Ducks . . . 338
Woodcock Sauce . . . 339
Snipe Sauce . . i . 340
Bonne Bouche, for Goose
or Duck . . , . . 341
Savoury Sauce, for Roast
Pork or Geese, &c. . 342
Turtle Sauce , . ... 343
Wine Sauce, for Venison 344
Vinegar$auce,forVenison 345
Sweet Sauce, for Venison 346
MuttonGravy,forVeoison 347
Curry Sauce .... 348
Soup-Herb and Savoury
Powder, <pr Double Re-
lish Sauce ... , . 349
Ham Sauce, for Poultry . 350
Essence of Ham . . .351
Ham Sauce .... 352
Minced Ham Sauce, for
Eggs or Pease ... . 353
Sauce for V.eal. Cutlets . 854
Grill Sauce . ..... . 355
Sauce for Rump Steaks
or Mutton Chops . . 356
Savoury Jelly for Cold
Meat,.&c. .... 357
Russian Sauce, for Cold
Meat 358
ISO.
Sauce for Cold Meat,
Poultry, &c. ... 359
Sauce for Hashes of Mut-
ton or Beef . . . . 360
Sauce for Hashed or
Minced Veal . . /361
White Gravy Sauce . . 362
To make Marinade . . 363-
Bechamel Sauce . . . 364
Poivrade Sauce . . . 365
Poivrado Sauce, cokl . 366
Sauce Tournee . . . 367
Sauce Veloute .... 368
Mustard in a Minute . 369
Mustard, to make . . S70
Salt . . . . . . .371
Salad Sauce . . . .372
Forcemeat Stuffings . .373
Veal Stuffing . \ . . 374^
Veal Forcemeat . . . 375
Stuffing for Roast Turkey,
or Capon, or Fowl . .376
Stuffing for Boiled Turkey 377
Goose or Duck Stuffing . 378
Stuffing for. Hare . . .37?
Forcemeat BallsforTurtle,
Mock Turtle, or Made
Dishes . . . . . S80
Egg Balls . , . . .381
Curry Balls . . . .382
Soup-Herb Powder Balls 383
Savoury Powder Balls . 384
Soup-Herb and Savoury
Powder Balls . . .385
Zest Balls ... .386
Orange or Lemon-Peel, to
mix with Stuffing . . 387
Mock Cream .... 388
Raspberry Vinegar . . 389
Raspberry Vintgar, ano-
ther way S90
Syrup of Lemons . . .391
CONTENTS.
KO.
OrangeSyrup,for Puddings 392
Svrup of Orange -or Lemon
*Peel ...... 393
Syrup of Nutmegs . . 394
Syrup of Vinegar . . . 395
Tarragon Vinegar . . . 396
Basil Vinegar . . . .397
Mint Vinegar . . . .393
Essence of Vinegar . . 399
Garlick Vinegar . . . 400
Eshallot Vinegar . . .401
Eshallot Wiue . . . .402
Camp Vinegar .... 403 '
Brochard Sauce, for Cold
Meat 404
Essence of Cayenne . . 405
Prepared Lemon Juice . 406
Essence of Lemon-Peel . 407
Quint-Essence of Lemon-
Peel 408
Spirit of Celery . . . 409
Preserved Juice of Fruits
without Sugar . . . 410
Essence of Ginger . .411
Essence of Allspice . .412
Tincture of Allspice . .413
Essence of Clove andMace 414
Tincture of Clove . . 415
Essence of Cinnamon . 416
Essence of Marjoram . 417
Alum Finings, for clarify-
ingSpirituousandOleose
Cordials, Compounds,
&c 418
Spirit of Sweet -Herbs, for
Broths, &c 419
Soup-Herb Spirit . . . 420
Spirit of Savoury Spice .421
Soup-Herb, and Savoury
Spice Spirit , . . .422
Relish for Chops, &c, . 423
Original Receipt for Quints
Sauce ..... 424
JfO.
Fish Sauce . . , . . 415
Fish Sajce 426
Keeping Mustard . . . 427
Sour Grout 428
Sauce Superlative . . 429
Mock Anchovies . . . 430
Essence of Mock Ancho-
vies 431
Mock Essence of Ancho-
vies 432
Essence of Anchovy . . 433
Anchovy Paste . . . 434
Anchovy Powder . . . 435
Soy . 436
Essence of Walnuts . . 437
Walnut Catsup . . . 438
Mushroom Catsup . . 439
Mushrooms Preserved . 440
Oyster Catsup .... 441
Cockle and Muscle Catsup 442
Tomata Catsup . . . 443
White Catsup .... 444
Cucumber Catsup . . 445
Pudding Catsup . . . 446
Potatoe Mucilage . . 448
Mrs. Raffald's Browning 449
Mrs. Raffald's Lemon
Pickle ....-, 45O
Hash Sauce . , . .451
PiquanteVinegar,or Sauce
for Salads or Cold
Meat ..... 452
Salad Mixture .... 453
Curry Powder .... 454*
Cheap Curry Powder . 455
Italian Tarn ara . . . 456
Savoury Ragout Powder 457
Pea Powder ..... 458
Soup-Herb Powder, or
Vegetable Relish . 45 &
Soup-Herb and Savoury
Powder, or Quintes-
sence of Ragout . , 460
*f
^-o' ':..,.;.... V\
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j I : ' "1
; %, , n i '"' if
l^L' ." -^- **n
TMJB C
The* London m*td? 0f cutting iif> this Animal .
the tuinii: i n id relative value ofcach Joint.,
price* m\> /fare/ (Jan .l.Wt7,j by ///
w/w sc.lLf an <irti*ie of tirvt -rate
tuul thvuijh ffii' priff jhvuJJ vary, thr relative
will ht 1 e&hibiteeL.
THE HIND ft r AH TER OF KEEF. THE FORE q rAR TEK .
i
2 Rutty*
3 EdiH JJonc
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ti \'i'ui\' h\'f.f
7 Thick: Flank
y
per Ib
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12
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14
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16 L\\-ch\
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References tv the rc,?i>crti\\ ./,'/>/./.' f/' I
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TMiB SHEEP,
References t> tJi< ir, fti\< Jt>jnt*- . i
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o . '
THE
COOK'S ORACLE,
BOILING.
GENERAL RULES.
THIS most simple of culinary processes is not
often performed in perfection. Boiling requires
less nicety and attendance than roasting; and to
skim your pot well, and keep it really boiling (the
slower the better) all the while, and to know how
long is required for doing the joint, &c. com-
prehends almost the whole art and mystery. This>
however, requires a patient and perpetual vigi-
lance, of which few persons are capable. The
cook must take care that the water really boils all
the while she is cooking, or she will be deceived
in the time ; and she should make up a sufficient
iire at first, to last all the time, without much
mending or stirring. As it is coming to a boil.
BOILING.
there will always, from the cleanest meat and
clearest water, rise a scum to the top of the pot :
this proceeds partly from the foulness of the meat,
and partly from the water, and must be carefully
taken off as soon as it rises : if you neglect this,
and suffer it to boil, the scum will fall, and stick
to the meat. On this depends the appearance
of all boiled things. When you have scummed
well, throw in some cold water and a little salt,
which will throw up the rest of the scum. The
oftener it is scummed, and the cleaner the top
of the water is kept, the cleaner will be the meat.
If let alone, it soon boils down, and sticks to
the meat*; which, instead of looking delicately
white and nice, will have that coarse and filthy
appearance we have too often to complain of,
and the butcher arid poulterer get blamed for
the carelessness of the cook in not scumming her
pot. Many put in milk, to make what they boil
look white ; but this does more harm than good :
others wrap it up in a cloth ; but this is needless,
and better let alone ; if the scum be attentively
removed, it will have a colour and flavour that
* If, unfortunately, this should happen, the cook must
carefully take it off when she dishes up, either with a clean
sponge or a paste-brush.
BOILING.
it never has when muffled up. It is the best
way to take out all the dirt, not to defend the
meat against it.
Put jour meat into plenty of cold * water, not
less than a quart to a pound, so that it may get
gradually warm through before the outside gets
hard : begin to reckon the time from its first
coming to a boil. The old rule of 15 minutes
to a pound of meat we think rather too little;
for the slower it boils, the tenderer, plumper,
and whiter it will be. From 20 to 30 minutes
to a pound will not be found too much for gentle
boiling by the side of the fire ; allowing more
or less time, according to the thickness of the
joints ; always remembering, the slower it boils
the better.
Meat will take rather longer time boiling in
o O
cold than it wants in warm weather ; and, if
frozen, must be thawed before boiling as before
roasting, by laying some time in cold water : or,
two or three hours before you dress it, bringing
it into a place the temperature of which is not less
than fifty degrees of Fahrenheit's thermometer.
* Cooks, however, as well as doctors, disagree ; for some
say, that " all sorts of fresh meat should be put in when the
water boils." I prefer the above method, for the reason
given.
B 2
BOILING.
Leg of Mutton. (No. 1.)
CUT off the shank bone and trim the knuckle of
a leg of mutton, and put it into lukewarm water for
an hour; wash it clean, put it on in plenty of
cold water; let it boil gently; and skim it carefully.
A leg of nine pounds will take three hours boiling,
Neck of Mutton. (No. 2.) '
Put four or five pounds of the best end of the
neck into a gallon and a half of water, and let it
simmer slowly for two hours ; it will eat most
deliciously tender: it will look most delicate if
you do not take off the skin till it has been boiled.
Caper sauce and turnips, or spinage, are expected
to accompany boiled mutton.
To Boil Lamb. (No. 3.)
Lamb will take quite as much time in boilin as
mutton, and is managed in the same way.
the observations on boiling, which commence this
chapter of our work, we have nothing to add.
To Boil Veal. (No. 4.)
As this is always expected to come to table look-
BOILING.
ing very delicately clean, &c., you must be care-
ful to have clean water and a clean vessel, and
constantly catch the scum, and attend to the
directions before given in the preliminary observa-
tions. Send up bacon and greens, and parsley
and butter, with it.
Beef Bcuillie, (No. 5.)
In plain English, is understood to mean boiled
beef; but its culinary acceptation, is fresh beef
dressed without boiling, but kept gently simmer-
ing over a slow fire. English cooks seem to have
no notion that good soup can be made without
destroying a great deal of meat : however, by a
judicious regulation of the fire, and a vigilant
attendance on the soup kettle, this may be accom-
plished without much difficulty, and you shall
have a tureen of such soup as the finest palate will
be pleased with, and the meat make its appearance
at table possessing its full portion of nutritious
succulence. This requires nothing more than to
boil or rather stew the meat slowly, instead of
fast, and to take it up when it is done enough.
Meat cooked in this manner affords more than
double the nourishment it does dressed in the
common way, is easy of digestion in proportion
as it is tender, and an invigorating diet, especial-
ly valuable to the poor, whose laborious employ-
ments require support, which if they could derive
from good eating being put within their reach,
they would -often go to the butcher's shop, when
they now run to the public house. Our neigh-
bours the French are so justly famous for their
skill in the affairs of the kitchen, that, as the adage
s4
BOJLING.
says, " as many Frenchmen so many cooks;"
surrounded as they are by a profusion of the
most delicious wines and most seducing liqueurs,
.offering every temptation and facility to render
drunkenness delightful, a tippling Frenchman is a
" rara avis :" they know how so easily and com-
pletely to keep "life in repair by good eating,
they require little or no adjustment from drinking.
This accounts for that " toujours gai," and happy
equilibrium of spirits which they enjoy with more
regularity than any people : the elasticity of their
stomachs, unimpaired by spirituous liquors, em-
brace and digest vigorously the food they saga-
ciously prepare for it, which they render easily
assimilable by cooking it sufficiently, wisely con-
triving to o>et half the work of the stomach done
o ^
by fire and water.
See Receipt for Soup and Bouillie, No. 23*.
To salt Beef and Pork. (No. 6.)
Before you salt meat, remember to take out the
kernels : there is always one in the udder of a
round of beef, and one in the fat in the middle of
the round, and several about the thick end of the
flank, and another in the mouse buttock ; and if
they are not taken out, all the salt in the world
will not keep the meat.
The great art of salting meat is to rub in the
salt thoroughly and evenly into every part, and to
till all the holes full of salt where the kernels
were taken out, and where the butcher's skewers
were : a round of beef of 40 pounds will take a
pound and a quarter of salt to be rubbed in all at
lirst, and turn it and rub it every day with the
BOlLfNC.-
brine: it will be ready for dressing in ehrht or fen
days, if you do not wish it very salt. In summer,
salt your meat as soon as it comes in, and take
care to defend it from the flies. In winter, it will
eat the shorter and tenderer if kept three or four
days before it is salted ; and in frosty weather
warm the salt in a frying pan, and rub it on the
meat while it is hot. If you wish it to look red,
rub it with saltpetre and bay salt, in the propor-
tion of two ounces of each of these to half a pound
of common salt.
An H-bone will require about half a pound of
salt to be well rubbed into it, and will be ready in
four or five days, if turned and rubbed every day.
Pork requires a longer time to cure it (in pro-
portion to its weight} than beef, and a leg of pork
should be in salt eight or ten days.
Salted meat should always be well washed
before it is boiled, especially if it has been in salt
long, that the liquor the meat is boiled in, may
not be too salt to make soup of. If your meat has
been in salt a long time, and you think it will be
too salt, lay it in water the night before you
intend to dress it.
To Boll a Round of salted Beef. (No- 7.)
This is generally too large for a moderate family,
so we shall write directions for the dressing half
round.
Skewer it up as tight and as round as possible,
andlie a fillet of broad tape round it, to keep the
skewers in their places. Put it into plenty of cold
water, and carefully catch the scum as it rises;
let it boil till all the scum is removed ; and thrc :
B5
BOILING.
put the boiler on one side of the fire to keep
simmering till it is done. Half a round of SOlbs.
take near three hours ; if it weighs more,
give it more time. When you take it up,, wash
it well with a paste brush, and garnish the dish
with carrots : send up carrots, turnips, and pars-
nips, or greens, on separate dishes. Pease pud-
ding is very good with it.
H-Bone of Beef (No. 8.)
Is to be managed in exactly the same manner
as the round, but will be sooner boiled, as it is not so
solid : an H-bone of SOlbs. will be enough in about
two hours and a half, and H-bones of lOlbs. in two.
Be sure the boiler is big enough to allow it plenty
of water-room ; for the more water it is boiled in,
the better it will look, and the tenderer it will eat.
Obs. In " Mrs Mason's Ladies' Assistant"
this joint is called haunch-bone ; in " Henderson's
Cookery," edge bone ; in < Domestic Manage-
ment," aitch-bone," in " Reynolds' Cookery,"
ische bone. We have also seen it spelt ac/z-bone,
and each-bone.
Ribs of Beef salted and rolled. (No. .)
Briskets, and the various other pieces, are dress-
ed in the same way. Wow Wow sauce (No. 328)
is an agreeable companion to them.
To Boil a Calfs Head. (No. 10.)
<- Take out the brains, then wash the head well in
several waters, and let it lie in soak in warm water
BOILING.
for an hour before you dress it. Tie the brains
up in a cloth \vith half a dozen sage-leaves, put
them with the head into a kettle with plenty of
cold water: when it is coming to a boil, and the
scum rises, carefully remove it : when the meat at
the neck-end is tender, it is done enough. Haifa
calf's head, without the skin on, will take from an
hour and three quarters to two hours and a quar-
ter, according to its size ; with the skin on, about
half an hour longer. Chop the brains with the
sage-leaves that were boiled wiih them, and send
them to table on a separate dish, with the tongue
(peeled), and cut down the middle, laid on each
side of them. This dish is usually attended by
bacon or pickled pork, and greens, cauliflowers,
or peas, and always parsley and buffer. No. 261.
If you like it full dressed, beat up the yolk of
an egg, and rub it over the head with a feather ;
powder it with a seasoning of dried and powdered
lemon thyme, parsley, pepper, and salt, and bread
crumbs, and give it a brown with a salamander, or
in a tin Dutch oven : when it begins to dry
sprinkle a little melted butter over it with a paste
brush. You may garnish the dish with broiled
rashers of bacon laid round it.
Obs. Calf's head is one of the most delicate
and favourite dishes in the list of boiled meats;
but nothing is more insipid when cold : and again,
nothing makes so nice a hash : therefore, al-
ways save a quart of the liquor your head was
boiled in, to make sauce, &c. for the hash. Cut
it into slices about a quarter of an inch thick,
flour them, and lay them ready on a plate : take the
bones of the head and the trimmings, a quarter
of a pound of bacon cut into slices, (some of that
BOILING.
which was dressed to eat with the calf's head
when hot, \vill do,) a bundle of sweet herbs, a
large onion, and a blade of bruised mace : put
these into a saucepan with the quart of liquor you
have saved, and let it stew for an hour and a half ;
then put half an ounce of butter into another
stewpan : when it is melted, add a table spoonful
of flour to it, stir it well together, and by degrees
add to it the gravy you have made with the
bones and trimmings, straining it through a hair
sieve: season it with a glass of white wine, and
a table spoonful of ketchup ; give it a boil up,
skim it, and then put in the calf's head and
bacon to warm, (it must not boil after,) and it
is ready.
N.B. You may garnish the edges of the dish
with slices of -bacon toasted in a Dutch oven,
and slices of lemon.
Pickled Pork (No. 11.)
Eequires more time than any meat. When you
cook a leg, which, when well dressed, is a favourite
dish with almost every body, take care it does
not boil fast ; if it does, Ihe knuckle will break to
pieces before the thick part of (he meat is warm
through : a leg of seven pounds will take nearly
three hours.
If not done enough, nothing is more disagree-
able: if boiled too long, it loses not only its flavour,
but its substance becomes soft like a jelly. It
can never appear at table without a good pease
pudding, and, if you please, turnips and greens,
&c. and remember not to forget your mustard
pot.
BOILING.
Pigs Pettitoes^ (No. 12.)
Put a thin slice of bacon at the bottom of a
stewpan, with some broth, a blade of mace, a
bay-leaf, a few peppercorns, and a bit of thyme :
boil the feet till they are quite tender: this will
take full twenty minutes : but the heart, liver,
and lights, will be done enough in ten : when
O J '
they are to be taken out, and minced fine.
Put them into a stewpan with a little gravy,
thicken it with a little butter rolled in flour,
season it with a little pepper and salt, set it over
a gentle fire; let them simmer for five minutes,
shaking them about very often.
While this is doing, have a thin slice of bread
toasted very lightly, divide it into sippets, and
lay them round the dish : pour the mince and
sauce into the middle of it, and split the feet and
lay them round it.
N.B. The pettitoes are sometimes fried in
batter.
Obs. If you have no gravy in the water
you stew the pettitoes in, put an onion, a sprig
of lemon thyme, or sweet marjoram, with a blade
of bruised mace, a few black peppers, arid a large
tea-spoonful of lemon pickle ; and you will have
a very tolerable substitute for gravy.
Bacon. (No. 13.)
Put a pound of nice streaked bacon info two
quarts of boiling water, and let it boil quick for
30 or. 40 minutes ; take it up, scrape the under
side well, and cut off the rind : grate a crust of
bread over it, and put it before the fire for a few
BOILING.
minutes; it must not be there too long, or it will
dry it too much and spoil it
Two pounds will require an hour, three pounds
an hour and a half; the hock or gammon being
very thick, will take full a quarter of an hour to a
pound more.
Ham, (No. 14.)
Though of the bacon kind, has been so altered
and hardened in the particular way of curing,
it requires a very different manner of dressing.
Jt is generally not half soaked, as salt as brine,
and hard as flint : if it is very dry, it must be
soaked from 12 to 24 hours : scrape it clean,
trim it neatly, and put it into lukewarm water,
which will help to mellow it very much. Give
it plenty of water ; a copper is the best thing to
boil it fn ; put it in while, the water is cold, and
manage ihe fire so that it may be three or four
hours before it boils : to prevent this, put in a
little cold water occasionally, but do not put in so
much at a time as to prevent its simmering ; keep
scumming it carefully ail the time : then stir up
your fire, and make the water boil slowly, and
a middling sized ham will be finished in an hour
and a half; a large one in two hours, or a very
little more ; and it will be very clean, and eat very
tender.
Pull off the skin carefully, so as to preserve it
as whole as possible, as it will form an excellent
covering to keep the ham moist : when you have
removed the skin, rub some bread raspings through
a hair sieve, or grate a crust of bread over it.
BOILIXG.
Tongue. (No. 15.)
A Tongue is so hard, whether prepared by drying
or pickling, that it requires much more time, &c.
than a ham : nothing, of its weight, takes so long
to dress it properly.
A tongue that has been salted and dried, should
be put to soak 24 hours before it is wanted, in a
large quantity of water ; a green tongue fresh from
the pickle requires soaking only a few hours ; they
take nearly the sametimedressing. Let your tongue
be put into plenty of cold water, and give it from
three and a half to four hours very slow simmering,
according to its size : about half an hour before it is
done, take it up, peel it, and put it into (he pot
again to finish it ; scum the pot frequently while
it is doing, and it will come out tender and clean.
It is a general rule with some cooks to try if the
tongue will peel, and then allow it half an hour
after that.
Fowls. (No. 16.)
Under this title we include all the kinds of tame
fowls, from the turkey to the chicken : they are
all boiled exactly in the same manner, and accord-
ing to the same rules, only allowing time, accord-
ing to the size. For stuffings, &c. see No. 374
and 377.
Turkies, and large fowls, should always have
the strings or sinews of the thighs drawn out.
Fowls for boiling should be chosen as white as
possible : those which have even black-legs had
better be roasted.
BOfLING.
Make a good and clear fire ; set on a clean pot y
\vilh plenty of pure and clear water, the more the
better; and the slower it boils the whiter and
plumper the fowl will be. You may rub a
lemon over the breast of your fowl, and put it in.
When there rises any scum, the common method
of some who are more nice than wise, is to wrap
them up in a cloth, to prevent the scum attaching 1
to them ; which if it does, by your neglecting to
skim your pot, there is no getting it off afterwards,
and the pMnllerer is blamed for the fault of the
cook. However, if there be water enough, and
it is attentively scummed, the fowl will both look
and eat much better this way than when it has
been tied up in the cleanest cloth ; and both the
colour ,and flavour of your poultry will be preser-
ved in the most charming and delicate perfection,.
Rabbits. (No. 17.)
Truss your rabbits short, put them info plenty of
water, and boil them half an hour; if large ones,
three quarters; smother them with onion sauce,
and send up liver sauce in a boat.
Tripe. (No. 18.)
Cut the tripe into pieces about two inches broad
and four long; put it into a stewpan of clean
boiling water, and let it boil half an hour; then
Jiave another clean stew pan with an equal quantity
of milk and water ; when this boils, take the tripe
out of the water, and put it into the milk and
water.
BOILING.
Boil (by themselves) some Spanish, or the
whitest common onions you can get ; when they
are tender, drain them in a hair sieve, and put
them to the tripe in a tureen or soup-dish : take
off the fat if any floats on the surface ; but tripe
dressed in this way is seldom greasy.
Obs. Rashers of bacon are a very good ac-
companiment to boiled tripe.
ROASTING.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
IN all studies, it is the best practice to begin ^vith
the plainest and easiest parts ; and so proceed,
bv decrees, to such as are more difficult: \ve,
J
therefore, first treat of plain boiling and roasting * ; .
* The muscular flesh of animals, which is the subject of
culinary operations, is composed of many elements. A nice
discrimination of these parts is by no means necessary for
our present purpose ; it will be sufficient to point out, that of
muscular flesh one part becomes coagulated at the boiling
heat of ^1'2 of Fahrenheit, and resembles, in its properties, the
white of an egg; it has, therefore, been called albumen.
Another component part is the animal glue or jelly, termed
gelatin; and the other is the coloured ju'ce contained within
the smaller vessels, which, in compliance with custom, we
denominate gravy. In the preparation of food by boiling
and roasting, the albumen is coagulated : the same tftVct
takes place in the drawing of gravy. In this latter operation
the nelatin and fluids contained in the smaller vessels are
extracted; and the albumen, coagulated wi-ii the fibrous
matter, remains.
It will be evident, from this statement, that roasted meat .
ROASTING.
and shall then gradually unravel, lo our culinary
students, the art and (until we candidly and
clearly develop it in this "work) mystery of
making 1 , with the least trouble and expense, the
most delicious and highly finished made-dishes.
Let the young cook never forget that clean-
liness is the first cardinal virtue of the kitchen ;
and, as the first preparation for Roasting, take
care that the spit be properly cleaned with sand
and water ; nothing else. When it has been
well scowered with this, dry it with a clean cloth.
If spits are wiped clean as soon as the meat is
drawn from them, and while they are hot, a very
little cleaning will be required. The less the spit
runs through the meat the better* ; and take espe-
cial care it be evenly balanced on the spit, that
its motion may be regular, and the fire operate
is more nutritious than boiled ; because, at the boiling heat,
a great quantity of the gelatinous part is extracted by the
water.
* As many small families have not the convenience of
roasting with a spit, a remark upon roasting by a string is
necessary. Let the cook, before she puts her meat down to
the fire, pass a strong skewer through each end of the joint: by
this means, when it is about hah done, she can with ease turn
the bottom upwards ; the gravy will then flow to the part
which has been uppermost, and the whole joint cut and eat
most delicately.
ROASTIN.
equally on each part of it; therefore be provided
with balancing; skewers.
o
All your attention in roasting 1 will be thrown
away if you do not take care that your meat
has been kept long enough to be tender*. The
only way to make sure of this, is to have it home,
and hang it up in your own larder. If you have
not a good airy place for this purpose, bespeak
your meat and poultry three or four days before
you wish to dress it. Examine it, before you spit
it, that it is properly jointed. The cook as often
loses her credit by meat being dressed too fresh,
as by fish that is too stale. Dr. Franklin, in his
philosophical experiments, tells us, that game or
poultry, &c. killed by electricity, may be dressed
immediately, and w r ill be deliciously tender.
Make up the fire in time, and let it be pro-
portioned to the dinner to be dressed, and about
four inches longer at each end than the thing to
be roasted. The chemists talk of their several
* The time meat should hang depends entirely on the
degree of heat and humidity of the air: if not kept long
enough, it is hard and tough ; if too long, it loses its flavour :
it should hang where it will have a thorough air, and dry it
well with a cloth night and morning, to keep it from growing
damp and musty. When you dress it, pare off the outsides,,
as they sometimes get a bad taste.
ROASTING.
degrees of heat, and the cook must be as par-
ticular to proportion her fire to the business she
Las to do.
The fire that is but just sufficient to receive
the noble sirloin, will parch up a lighter joint
Proportion the solidity of your fire to the size
of your joint ; and from half an hour to an hour
before it is necessary to put it down to roast,
prepare the fire by putting a few coals on, which
will be sufficiently burnt by the time you wish to
make use of your fire ; rake out the bottom,
and press it down so as to make the fire solid and
good ; between the bars and on the top put
small round coal or large round coals, according
to the bulk of the joint, and the time the fire is
required to be strong; after which, throw all your
cinders (wetted) at the back. Never put j^our
meat down to a burnt-up fire if you can possibly
avoid it ; but should it be so, that having a large
dinner to cook the fire is become fierce, be sure to
place the spit at a considerable distance, and
allow your meat a little more time. Always pre-
serve the fat by covering it with paper ; keep by
you, for this purpose, paper called t6 kitchen
paper," and fine twine to tie it on : pins and
skewers can by no means be allowed, as they are
so many taps to let out the gravy of your meat ;
besides, the paper with the heat of the fire often
ROASTING.
starts from them and catches light, to the great
injury of the meat.
If the thing to be roasted be thin and tender,
the fire should be little and brisk ; and when you
have a large joint to roast, make up a sound,
strong fire ; it must be equally good in every part
of the grate, especially at the ends, or your meat
cannot be equally roasted, nor have that uniform
colour on every part of it, which constitutes the
beauty of good roasting.
Give the fire a good stirring before you lay the
joint down, examine it every quarter of an hour
while the spit is going round ; keep it clear at the
bottom, and take care there are no smoky coals in
the front of it, which will spoil the look and taste
of the meat, and hinder it from roasting evenly.
When the joint to be roasted is thicker at one end
than the other, place the spit slanting, so that the
whole time the thickest part is nearest the fire, and
also the thinnest by this means is preserved from
being overmuch roasted.
Take care not to put your meat too near the fire;
the larger the joint, the farther it must be kept
from the fire*; for if once it gets scorched, the
* From 14 to 10 inches seem to be about the distance meat
is generally put from the grate \vhen first put down : it is ex-
tremely difficult to offer any thing like an accurate general rule
for this, as it depends so much upon the size of the fire and of
ROASTING.
outside will become hard, and acquire a disagree-
able strong* taste ; and the fire being prevented
from penetrating into it, the meat will appear
enough, before it is little more than half done, be-
sides losing the pale brown colour which it is the
greatest beauty of all roast meat to have.
If you wish your jack to go well, keep it as
clean as possible, oil it, and then wipe it ; as, if the
oil is not wiped off again, it will gather dust: to
prevent this, as soon as you have done with your
jack cover it up. Never leave the winders on
whilst the jack is going round, unless you do it, as
Swift says, that it may fly off and knock those
troublesome servants on the head, who will be
crowding round your kitchen fire.
Be very careful to place the drippingpan at
such a distance from the fire, as just to catch the
drippings : if it is too near, the ashes will fall into
it, and spoil the drippings ;* (which, we shall here-
thai of the thing to be roasted, till some culinary philosopher
shall invent a thermometer to ascertain the degree of heat of
the fire, and a graduated spit rack to regulate the distance from
it, the process of roasting must remain among those which can
only be performed well by very frequent practice.
* Which the good housewife will take up occasionally, as by
leaving it all in the dripping-pan until the meat is taken up,
it not only becomes very strong, but when the meat is rich
and yields much of it, it is apt to be spilt in basting.
ROASTING,
after shew, will be found not only an excellent
substitute, but for many purposes are decidedly
superior to eitiier butter or lard ;) if it is too far
from the fire to catch them, you will, not only
lose your drippings, but the meat will be blackened
and spoiled by the foetid smoke which will arise
when the fat falls on the live cinders.
The time meat will take roasting will vary
according to the temperature of the weather : the
same piece will be twenty minutes or half an hour
longer in cold weather* than it will be in warm.
It is difficult to give any specific rule for time ;
but if your fire is made as before direcled, your
meatskreen is sufficiently large to guard what you
are dressing from currents of air, and the meat is not
frosted t, we cannot do better than recommend the
* If the meat is frozen, put it into coW water till it is
tliawed, then dry and roast it as usual; or bring it into the
kitchen for two or three hours before you want to roast it,
and the warm air will thaw it perhaps better than any other
way.
f The tin meat-screens made by Lloyd, furnishing iron-
monger, near Norfolk Street, Strand, are infinitely the best ; as
they also answer all the purposes of a large Dutch oven, plate
warmers, warm hearths, &c. ; where are also sold, bright
block tin concave reflectors, to screw on the ends of the spit :
these are very useful and economical, as they not only save
fire, but are indispensably necessary to brown the ends of your
ROASTING.
old general rule of allowing a quarter of an hour to
the pound ; a little more or less, in proportion as
the piece is thick or thin, the strength of the
fire, the nearness of the meat to it, and the
frequency with which you baste it : the more it is
basted, the less time it will take, as it keeps the
meat soft and mellow on the outside, and the fire
thereby acts with more force upon it.
A large joint should be basted every quarter of
an hour, till within half an hour of the time it is
done.
It is also a good general rule, when your joint is
half done, to remove the spit and drippingpan
back, and stir up your fire thoroughly, that it
may burn clear and bright for the browning :
when the steam from the meat draws towards the
fire*, it is a sign of its being done enough; but
you will be the best judge of that from the time it
has been down, the strength of the fire you have
used, and the distance your spit has been from it.
joints ; without which, these parts will seldom be done as
they should be. The same, and all other kitchen and iron-
mongery goods, are excellently well made by Brownley, Greek
Street, Soho.
When the steam begins to arise, it is a proof that the
whole joint is thoroughly saturated with heat: any unnecessary
evaporation, is a waste of all the best nourishment of the meat;
e
K O A S T I N t, .
Just bo fore you take it up, baste it, and dredge
it with flour carefully: (if you are very particular
about the froth, you must use butter instead of
dripping ;) | >cv Receipt to Jfotist a Turkey : } and
send up vthat you roast with pleasing froth, so
presenting an agreeable appearance to the eye,
the palate may be prepo.^essed in its favour at
first sight.
Though roasting is one of the most common, and
is generally considered one of the most easy and
simple processes of cookery, it requires more unre-
mitting- attention to perform it perfectly well, than
it does to make m^st made-dishes.
That made-dishes are more difficult, I think
really deserves to be reckoned arnonjj the culi-
nary vulgar errors : for in these the cook has
nothing to do but follow the receipt, and cannot
verv easily fail : but in plain roasting? and boiling
w A
it is not easy to repair a mistake once made ; and
all the discretion and attention of a steady careful
cook must be unremittingly upon the alert*.
rated French writer has made the following obser-
\-ntion* oil roasting :
The art of roasting victual* to the precise degree, is one
of the most ditticult in this world, and you may f.nd a thou-
sand cood cooks sooner than one jvrvct roaster : (See " Alma-
i. : . ..rwuHtk," vol. i. p. 57.) In the mansions of the
ROASTING.
A diligent attention to time, distance, basting
opulent they have, besides the chief cook, a roaster, perfectly
independent of the former. All erudite gourmands know these
two important functions cannot be performed by one artist, and
that it is quite impossible at the same time to direct the opera-
tions of the spit, and the stewpan." Further on the same
author observes : " No certain rules can be given for roast-
ing, the perfection of it depending on many circumstances
which are continually changing ; the age, size, shape, and
nature of the pieces, the quality of the coals, the temperature
of the atmosphere, the currents of air in the kitchen, the more
or less attention of the roaster; and, lastly, the time of serving.
For supposing the dinner ordered to be on table at a certain
time, if the fish and soup are much liked, and detained longer
than the roaster has calculated ; or, on the contrary, if they
are despatched sooner than is expected, the roasts will in one
case be burnt up, in the other not done enough two mis-
fortunes equally to be deplored. The first, however, is without
a remedy ; five minutes on the spit more or less, decides the
goodness of this mode of cookery ; and it is almost impossible
to seize the precise instant when it ought to be eaten ; which
epicures in roasts express by saying, ( It is done to a turn.'
So it is that there is no exaggeration in saying, that the perfect
roaster is even more rare than the professed cook.
" In small families, where the cook is also the roaster, it is
almost impossible the roasts should be well done ; the spit
claims exclusive attention, and is an imperious mistress, who
demands the entire devotion of her slave. But how can this be ?
When the cook is obliged at the same time to attend her fish
and soup kettles, and watch her stewpans and all their accom-
c 2
ROASTING.
eften*, and judicious management of the fire, are
all the general rules we can prescribe for roasting
paniments, it is morally and physically impossible ; if she gives
that delicate and constant attention to the roasts which they
require, the rest of the dinner must often be spoilt; and most
cooks will rather lose their character as a roaster, than neglect
the made-dishes and ' entremets,' &c. where she thinks she
can display her culinary science, than sacrifice these to the
roast; the perfection of which, she thinks, will only prove her
steady vigilance and patience.
* Our ancestors were very particular in their bastings and
dredgings, as will be seen by the following quotation from
" May's Accomplished Cook.' 1 London, 1665, p. 136." The
rarest ways of dressing of all manner of roast meats, either flesh
or fowl, by sea or land, and divers ways of breading or dredging
xneats to prevent the gravy from too much evaporating.
Dredgings;
1 . Flour mixed with grated bread. 2. Sweet herbs dried and
powdered, and mixed with grated bread. 3. Lemon peel dried
and pounded, or orange peel mixed with flour. 4. Sugar finely
powdered, and mixed with pounded cinnamon, and flour, or
grated bread. 5. Fennel seeds, corianders, cinnamon, and
sugar, finely beaten, and mixed with grated bread or flour.
6. For young pigs, grated bread or flour mixed with beaten
nutmeg, ginger, pepper, sugar, and yo^ks of eggs. 7. Sugar,
bread, and salt mixed.
Bastings.
1. Fresh butter. 2. Clarified suet. 3. Minced sweet herbs,
butter and claret, especially for mutton and lamb. 4. Water
and salt. 5. Cream and melted butter, especially for a flayed
pig. 6. Yolks of eggs, grated biscuit, and juice of oranges.
ROASTING,
in perfection ; we shall deliver particular rules for
particular things, as the several articles occur, and
do our utmost endeavours to instruct our reader
as completely as we could find words to describe
the process, and teach
" The management of common things so well,
*' That what was thought the meanest, shall excel :
" That cook *s to British palates most complete,
** Whose sav'ry skill gives zest to common meat :
" For what are your soups, your ragouts, and your sauce,
" Compar'd to the fare of old England,
" And old English roast beef!"
%* The time given in the following Receipts is calculated for
those who like their meat thoroughly roasted*
ROASTING.
Sirloin of BEEF. (No. 19.)
THE noble sirloin of about fifteen pounds' will
require to be before the fire about four hours : take
care to spit it straight, that it may not be heavier
on one side than the other ; put a little clean
dripping into the drippingpan, tie a sheet of
paper over it to preserve the flit*, and baste it
well as soon as it is put down, and baste it every
quarter of an hour all the time it is roasting till
the last half hour ; then take off the paper, stir the
fire and make it clear : to brown and froth it,
sprinkle a little salt over it, baste it with butter,
and dredge it with flour ; let it go a few minutes
longer till the froth rises, take it up, put it on the
dish, &c. To make gravy for it, put a teaspoon-
ful of salt into half a pint of boiling water, and
pour it over the underside of the meat, and
through the hole the spit comes out of. Garnish
with horseradish scraped as fine as possible with
a very sharp knife, A Yorkshire pudding is an
excellent accompaniment. (No. 595.)
Obs. The inside of the sirloin must never
be cut hot, but reserved entire for the hash.
(See some hints to housekeepers on this subject in
the Receipt to Hash Beef.) No. 506.
* If there is more fat than you think will be eaten with the
meat, cut it off, it will make an excellent pudding; or clarify
it, and use it for frying.
ROASTING.
Ribs of Beef. (No. 20.)
The three first ribs, of fifteen or twenty pounds,
will take three hours and a half: the fourth and
fifth ribs will take as long, managed in the same
way as the sirloin. Paper the fat, and the thin
part, or it will be done too much; before the thick
part is done enough.
Ribs of Beef boned and rolled. (No, 2 1 .)
When you have kept two or three ribs of beef
till quite tender, take out the bones, and skewer it
as round as possible, (like a fillet of veal,) and
bind it with tape to prevent the skewers breaking
out : as the meat is more in a solid mass, it will
require more time at the fire than in the preced-
ing receipt ; and a piece of ten or twelve pounds
weight will not be well and thoroughly roasted in
less than three hours and three quarters. For the
first half hour it should not be less than 12 inches
from the fire, that it may get gradually warm to
the centre : the last halt' hour before it will be
finished, take off the tape, sprinkle a little salt
over it, and flour and froth it.
Rump of Beef (No. 22.)
Is very difficult to spit, and should have two
strong skewers tied on it to keep it steady ; their
usual weight is from sixteen to twenty-four pounds ;
c
ROASTING.
and the time they must be at the fire, from four
hours to four and a half.
Roast MUTTON. (No. 23.)
As beef requires a large sound fire, mutton
must have a brisk and fierce one : it is never well
done unless the fire is quick and clear, and the
mutton has been hung as long as it will keep *.
A Leg. (No. 24.)
A leg of eight pounds will take two hours and a
quarter : let it be well basted and frothed, in the
same manner as roast beef.
DEAN SWIFT'S Receipt to Roast Mutton.
" Gently stir and blow the fire,
Lay the mutton down to roast,
Dress it quickly I desire,
In the dripping put a toast,
That I hunger may remove,
Mutton is the meat I love.
li On the dresser see it lie;
Oh ! the charming white and red \
Finer meat ne'er met the eye,
On the s-.veetest grass it fed :
Let the jack go swiftly round,
Let me have it nicely brown'd.
" On the table spread the cloth,
Let the knives be sharp and clean,
Pickles get and salad both,
Let them each be fresh and green.
With small beer, good ale, and wine }
O ye gods ! how I shall dine !"
ROASTING.
A Chine, (No. 25.)
(. c. the two loins) or
A Saddle, (No. 26.)
(i.e. the two necks,) often or eleven pounds, two
hours and a half: tie a sheet of paper over them :
baste the strings you tie it on with directly, or
they will burn ; and let the meat be well basted.
A Shoulder, (No. 27.)
Of seven pounds, an hour and a half: put the
spit in close to the shank bone, and run it along
the blade bone; take care to froth it nicely.
A Loin* (No. 28.)
Of mutton an hour and a half. The most elegant
way of carving this, is to cut it lengthwise, as you
do a saddle.
A Neck, (No. 29.)
An hour and a half. It must be carefully jointed,
or it is very bad to carve.
* Common cooks very seldom brown the ends of neck arid
loins : to have this done nicely, and in perfection, let the fire
be a few inches longer at each end than the joint that is roasting,
and occasionally place the spit slanting, so that each end may
get sufficient fire : but nothing does this in such perfection
as the concave reflectors before mentioned. This is much
better than taking up the meat and putting it down before the
fire to do the ends ; as ; by the latter method, you cannot send it
to table frothed.
c 5
ROASTING.
Obs. If there is more fat upon them than
you think will be eaten with the lean, cut it
off, and it will make an excellent suet pudding.
\
A Breast, (No. 30.)
An hour and a quarter.
A Haunch, (No. 3 1 .)
(/. e. the leg and part of the loin) of mutton is
spitted and managed in the same way as a haunch
of Venison ; (see Receipt, No. 63.) send up two
sauce boats with it; one of the richest drawn gravy
that can be made without spice or herbs; and the
other of sweet sauce.
Mutton y Venison fashion. (No. 32. )
Take a neck of good five or six year old clown
mutton cut long in the bones ; let it hang at least a
week : two days before you dress it, take allspice
and black pepper ground and pounded fine, an
ounce each, with a quarter of an ounce of salt-
petre, and a large spoonful of brown sugar ; rub
them all well together, and then rub your mutton
well with this mixture twice a day : when you
dress it, wash off the spice with warm water, and
roast it in paste, as we have ordered the haunch of
venison : a haunch of mutton will take double the
quantity of the preparation, and one day longer
preparing.
Obs. Ingenious epicures have invented
many methods to make mutton eat like venison :
the above is the best imitation we have met
ROASTING.
with : and if you get prime mutton, keep it a
proper time, and prepare and dress it as above
directed, you may depend upon having a most
delicious dinner : if it does not possess all the pre-
cise flavour of venison, it is certainly the most
savoury and elegant way of eating mutton, which,
by this process, approximates nearer to the taste of
venison than by any other way we have tried,
and is not attended with any extraordinary trouble
or expense.
VEAL. (No. 33.)
Veal requires particular care to roast it a fine
brown. Let the fire be the same as for beef, in
proportion ; a sound large fire for a large joint, and
a brisker for a smaller : put it at some distance
from the fire to soak thoroughly, and then draw it
near to finish it brown. \Vhen it is first laid
down, it is to be basted with butter ; when it is
almost done, it is to be basted again, and lightly
dredged with a little flour to froth it nicely. With
those joints which are not stuffed, send up cakes or
balls of forcemeat, ( No. 375,) as garnith to the dish,
or fried pork sausages. Bacon and greens are
also always expected to attend veal.
Fillet of Veal, (No. 34.)
Of from twelve to fourteen pounds, will require
three hours and a half at a good fire : stuff it with
forcemeat, ( see Receipt, No. 374. ) where the bone
is taken out, and under the flap, that there may
be some of the stuffing left to eat cold, or to sea-
ROASTING.
son a basli : brown it and froth it in the same way
as beef, and pour good melted butter over it;
garnish with thin slices of lemon, and cakes or balls
of stuffing. No. 374, or No. 375.
A Loin (No. 35.)
Is the best part of the calf: it will take two
hours and .three quarters roasting. Paper the
kidney fat and the back.
A Shoulder, (No. 36.)
Two hours and a half: stuff it with the force-
meat ordered for the fillet of veal, but in the
underside.
Neck, best end, (No. 37.)
Will take two hours. The scrag part of a neck of
veal is not good roasted ; it is best made into a
pye, or broth.
Breast, (No. 36;)
An hour and a half. Let the caul remain on till it
is almost done, then take it off, to brown it ; baste,
flour, and froth it.
Veal Sweetbread. (No. 39.)
Trim a fine heart-sweetbread, parboil it for four
or five minutes, and throw it into a basin of cold
water.
Beat up the yolk of an egg, and prepare some
fine bread crumbs. When the sweetbread is cold,
ROASTING.
dry it thoroughly in a cloth, run a lark spit or a
skewer through it, and tie it on the spit : egg it all
over with a paste brush, and powder it well with
bread crumbs, and put it down to roast : twenty or
thirty minutes will dress them.
For sauce, fried bread crumbs round them and
melted butter, with a little mushroom catsup and
lemon juice.
Obs. Instead of spitting them, you may put
them into a tin Dutch oven.
LAMB (No. 40.)
Is a delicate, tender meat, easily spoiled in the
dressing ; the fire must be small and brisk, and
kept clear all the while ; the meat must be papered
on the outside ; and to the usual accompaniments
of roast meat, green mint sauce is commonly
added.
Grass lamb is in season from Easter to Michael-
mas.
House lamb from Christmas to Lady-day.
Hind Quarter, (No. 41.)
Of eight pounds, will take from an hour and three
quarters to two hours, basted and frothed in the
same way as beef.
Fore Quarter, (No. 42.)
Of ten pounds, two hours.
N. B. It is a pretty general custom, when you
take off the shoulder from the ribs, to squeeze a
ROASTING.
Seville orange over them, and sprinkle them with a
little pepper and salt.
Leg, (No. 43.)
Of five pounds, an hour and a half to three
quarters.
Shoulder, (No. 44.)
Willi a quick fire an hour.
Ribs, (No. 45.)
An hour and a quarter: stew the scrag for
gravy.
Loin, (No. 46.)
An hour and a quarter.
Neck, (No. 47.)
An hour.
Breast, (No. 48.)
Three quarters of an hour.
PORK. (No. 49.)
The prime season for pork is from Michaelmas
to March. Take particular care it be done
enough : other meats underdone are unpleasant
to some, but pork is uneatable by all. lie mem-
ber your mustard pot.
ROASTING.
A Leg, (No. 50.)
Of eight pounds, will require two hours and a
half: score the skin across in narrow stripes,
about half an inch apart ; stuff the knuckle with a
little sage and onion minced fine ; rub a liitle sweet
oil on the skin with a paste brush, or a goose
feather; this makes the crackling crisp and brown
much better than basting it with dripping; and it
will be a better colour than all the art and dili-
gence of cookery can make it any other way.
This way of dressing, also, always prevents the
skin from blistering.
Leg of Pork roasted without the Skin, or
Mock Goose. (No. 51.)
Parboil it for half an hour, take off the skin,
and then put it down to roast, and baste it with
butter, and make a savoury powder of dried and
powdered sage, ground black pepper.* salt, nut-
meg, and bread crumbs ; sprinkle it with this from
time to time, as it roasts ; put half a pint of made
gravy into the dish.
The Griskin (No. 52.)
Of seven or eight pounds may be dressed in the
above manner : it will take an hour and a half
roasting.
Bacon, Sparerib, (No. 53.)
Usually weighs about eight or nine pounds, and
will take from two to three hours to roast it well ;
ROASTING.
not exactly according to its weight, but from the
V ~
thickness of the meal upon it. which varies very
much : lav the thick end nearest to the fire. A
proper bald sparerib (so called because almost all
the meat is pared off.) with a good clear fire, will
be done in an hour and a half.
When vou lav it down, dust on some flour, and
. ( c
baste il vv itn a little butter: dry twelve sage leaves,
and rub them throiir'i a hair sieve : about a quar-
ter of an hour before the meat is done, baste it,
strew on the pulverized smre. and dust on a ladle of
flour, and sprinkle it with a little salt.
Obs. Make it a general rule never to pour
craw over anv thing that is roasted : bvso doin<r*
* *. ^ /
the dredging is washed off, and it eats insipid.
Some people carve a -parerib by cutting out slices
in the thick part at the bottom of the bones : when
tins meat is cut away, the bones may be easily
separated, and are esteemed very sweet picking.
Apple sauce, mashed potatoes, and good mustard.
Lch?, (Xo. 51.)
Of five pounds, must be kept to the fire about an
hour and a half. Score the skin, and rub it with
salad oil, as directed in the receipt for the leg;
and you may sprinkle over it son.e of the savoury
powder recommended for the mock goose.
A. Chine (Xo. oo.)
Is parted down the back-bone, so as to have but
one side. A crood lire will roast it in two hours:
if not parted j three hours,
ROASTING.
Roast Pig. (No. 56.)
A roasting pig is considered to be in primest
order for the spit when about three weeks old ;
should be fat, and newly killed. It is not like
other meats, good as long as they arc sweet. The
pig loses part of its goodness every hour after it is
killed. To be in perfection, it should be killed in
the morning to eat at dinner; and it requires very
nice and careful roasting ; the ends must have
much more fire than the middle. For this pur-
pose is contrived an iron to hang before the middle
part, called a pig-iron. When the cook has not
this, she must keep the fire fiercest at the two
ends. Take the crumb of a stale twopenny loaf,
f. e. about four ounces, rub it through a cullen-
der ; mince fine a handful of sage, about two
ounces and a half, and a large onion, about an
ounce and a half* ; mix these together with some
pepper and salt, and a bit of butter as big as an
egg; fill the belly of the pig with this, and sew it
up; lay it to the fire, and take half a pound of
fresh butter and keep basting it till it is quite done,
and do not leave it a moment, for it requires the
most vigilant attendance.
Roast it at a clear brisk fire, at some distance,
that the crackling may sret nicely crisped and
browned without being blistered or burnt : it will
be enough in about an hour and a half. Before
you take it off the spit, cut off the head, and part
that and the body down the middle ; chop the
* Boil the sage and onion in a little water (before they are
cut) ; it softens and takes off the rawness of their flavour.
ROASTING.
brains very fine with some boiled sage, and mix
them with some good beef gravy in a sauce-tureen.
Send up plenty of gravy in the dish, and atureen-
ful besides. Lay your pig back to back into the
dish, \vithone half of the head on one side, the
other half on the other side, and the ears one at
each end, which yon must take care to make nice
and crisp, or you will get scolded as well as the
good man was who bought his wife a pig with only
one ear.
Obs. Some professors of cookery insist upon it
that nothing so well produces and preserves the
beauty and crispness of the crackling as sweet oil,
applied as directed in the receipt to roast a leg
of pork.
Turkey. (No. 57.)
A fowl and a turkey require the same manage*
ment at the fire, only the latter will take more time.
Let them be carefully picked, &c. and twist up a
sheet of large clean writing paper, light it, and tho-
roughly singe the turkey all over, turn ing it about
over the flame. Be careful when you draw them
to preserve the liver, and not to break the gall-bag,
as no washing will take oft' the bitter taste it gives,
where it once touches. Prepare a nice clear brisk
fire, for if the fire be poor and dead, your poultry
will be vapid p.ncl ill-tasted. A very brisk and
clear fire will only answer the purpose, and this
will give them their true taste, and make them
look beautiful.
Prepare your stuffing according to one of the re-
ceipts in the chapter of forcemeats, &c. No. 376 :
ROASTING.
stuff this under the breast where the craw wa
taken out, paper the breast, place the liver under
one wing, and the gizzard under the other, baste
it with butter, and dredge it with flour, keep it at
a distance from the fire for the first half hour, that
it may warm gradually, then put it nearer, and
when it is plumped up, and the steam draws in
toward the fire, it is nearly enough, then take off
the paper, put a bit of butter into your basting ladle,
and as it melts baste the turkey with it, and dredge
it lightly again with flour ; this will raise a much
finer froth than using the drippings out of the pan.
A very large turkey of fourteen or fifteen pounds
weight, will require three hours to roast it tho-
roughly; a middling sized one of eight or ten
pounds, about two hours ; and a small one may be
done in an hour and a half.
Fried pork sausages are a very savour) 7 and
relishing accompaniment to either roasted or
boiled poultry. A turkey thus garnished, is
called " an alderman in chains." The sausage
meat may be used as a stuffing also, instead of the
ordinary forcemeat. In cold weather a turkey
eats the better for being kept eight or ten days. If
you wish it to be tender, never dress it till at least
four or five days after it has been killed, or a fowl
till after three. Hen turkeys are preferable to cocks
for whiteness and tenderness, and the small fleshy
ones are the most esteemed.
Send up with them, oyster, egg, bread, or
gravy sauce.
Capons or Fowls. (No. 58.)
These must be killed a couple of days before
ROASTIXG.
(hey are dressed, or they will eat iough : they are
managed exactly in the same manner, and sent
up with the same sauces as a turkey, only require
proportionately less time at the fire : a full grown
fo\vl three quarters, a moderate size one half an
hour, and a chicken ten minutes less.
Pork sausages fried are in general a favourite
accompaniment, or stuff them with turkey stuffing;
(see Forcemeats ) No. 374, 5, 6, and 7 :) put in
plenty of it, so as to plump out the fowl, which
must be tied closely both at the neck and rump to
keep in the stuffing : some cooks put the liver of
the fowl into this iorcemeat, others rub it up with
the flour and butter, to thicken and give flavour
to the gravy, which receives further improvement
by stewing the legs of the foul in it, instead of
sending them to table, and the fowl looks much
better without them.
Obs. The age in poultry makes all the differ-
ence : nothing is tenderer than a chicken, and few
things are tougher or harder of digestion than
an old cock or hen : the season of perfection in
poultry is just before they have quite come to
their full growth, arid before they have begun to
harden.
Goose. (No. 59.)
When your goose is well picked, singed, and
cleaned, take two large onions*, and half as much
* If the flavour of the raw onions is too strong, cut them in
slices and lay them in cold water for a couple ot hours, or add
as much apple or potatoe as you have onion.
ROASTING.
sage, chop them very fine, a large breakfastcup-
ful of stale bread crumbs, and some pepper and
salt, add to them the yolk of an egg, and incor-
porate the whole well together ; put this stuffing
into the goose ; do not quite fill it with stuffing,
but leave a little room for it to swell, spit it, and
tie it on the spit at both ends, so as it will not
swing round, and to keep the stuffing from coming
out. An hour and a quarter will roast a large full
grown goose : send up rich gravy and apple
sauce with it.
For another stuffing for geese, see No. 388,
Chapter on Forcemeats, fyc.
Obs. The Michaelmas goose is famous in the
mouths of the million ; but for those who eat with
delicacy, it is at that time too full grown. The
true period when the goose is in its highest perfec-
tion, is when it has just acquired its full growth,
and not begun to harden. If the green goose is
insipid, the Michaelmas goose is rank ; the fine
time is between both ; from the last week in June
to the first week inSeptember.
Green Goose. (No. 60.)
The only difference in roasting a green, or a
full grown goose, consists in leaving out the sage
and onion, and putting only a seasoning of pepper
and salt into it, and that forty or fifty minutes will
roast it.
The following forcemeat is sometimes intro-
o
duced : chop some sweet herbs, grate some bread,
nutmeg, pepper and salt, moisten with an egg,
ROASTING.
and mix with it the liver cut small, and a bit of
minced bacon ; mix all well together, and fill the
body of the goose with it.
Duck. (No. 61.)
Mind your duck is well cleaned, and then wipe
it out with a clean cloth ; then take an ounce of
onion, and half an ounce of green sage, chop them
very fine, and mix them with two ounces, i. e.
about a teacupful of bread crumbs, a little
pepper and salt, and the yolk of an egg to bind it ;
mix these thoroughly together, and put it in the
duck. For another stuffing, see No. 388. Thirty
or forty minutes will be enough to roast it, ac-
cording to the size : contrive to have the feet crisp,
as some people are very fond of them : to do this,
you must have a very sharp fire.
N. B. If you think the raw onion will make
too strong an impression upon your palate, par-
boil it.
'(No. 62.)
For the following observations I am indebted to
Major Hawker's entertaining and informing work,
<6 Instructions for Young Sportsmen," London,
" Old pheasants may be distinguished by the
length and sharpness of their spurs, which in the
younger ones are short and blunt.
" 6ld partridges are always to be known during
the early part of the season, by their legs being of
a pale blue, instead of a yellowish brown : so
ROASTING.
that when a Londoner receives his brace of blue
legged birds in September, he should immediately
snap their legs, and draw out the sinews, by means
of pulling off the feet, instead of leaving them to
torment him, like so many strings, when he would
be wishing to enjoy his repast. This remedy to
make the legs tender, removes the objection to old
birds, provided the weather will admit of their
being sufficiently kept ; and indeed they are then
often preferable, from having a higher flavour.
" If birds are over-kept, their legs will be dry,
their eyes much sunk, and the vent will become
soft, and somewhat discoloured. The first place
to ascertain if they are beginning to be high, is the
inside of their bills, where it is not amiss to put
some hether straw, or spice, if you want to keep
them for any length of time. Birds that have
fallen into the water, or have not had time to get
cold, should not be packed like others, but sent
openly, and dressed as soon as possible. Sports-
men are often heartily abused by their acquaint-
ance, (I cannot yet bring myself to hackney the
Vfo\di friends quite so fluently as I ought to do,)
for sending them c tough and good-for-nothing
game,' while all the blame should, in many
instances, rest with themselves, or their pudding-
headed cook, who may be dresses an old phea-
sant or hare the very day lfp after it was killed ;
or perhaps, while engrossed in a story or argument,
leaves it to roast away, till there remains neither
juice nor flavour. All game should be kept till
properly tender. The following sauce for wild
fowl has been preferred to about fifty others ; and,
ROASTING.
at one time, was not to be got without the fee of a
guinea :
Recipe for Sauce to Wild Fowls.
Port wine, or claret 1 glass.
Sauce a la Russe*, (the older the ) t . , , f
better ) 5 tablespoonful.
Catsup - 1 ditto.
Lemon juice 1 ditto.
Lemon peel * 1 slice.
Shalot, (a large) 1 sliced.
Cayenne Pepper, (the darkest, ) .
not that like brickdust) .... 5
Mace 1 or 2 blades.
To be scalded, strained, and added to the mere
gravy which comes from the bird in roasting. To
complete this, ihe fowl should be cut up in a
silver dish that has a lamp under it, while the
sauce is simmering with it.
Haunch of Venison. (No. 63.)
Make a paste of flour and water, as much as
will cover a haunch of venison, wipe it over with
a dry cloth in every part, and take off the skin
from the upper side, rub a large sheet of paper
all over with butter, and cover the venison with it,
then roll out the paste about three quarters of an
inch thick, lay this all over the fat side, then co-
ver it well with three or four sheets of strong white
paper, and tie it very well on with packthread ;
have a strong close fire, and baste your venison as
soon as you lay it down to roast, or the paper and
string will burn ; it must be well basted all the
time. A haunch of sixteen pounds will take four
* By a la Russe we suppose cavice, or coratch, or soy, is
meant.
ROASTING.
Lours and a half roasting : a quarter of an hour
before it is done, the string must be cut, and the
paste carefully taken off; now baste it with butter,
dredge it lightly with flour, and when the froth
rises, and it has got a fine light brown colour,
garnish the knuckle bone with wet writing paper,
and send it up, with good gravy in one boat, and
currant-jelly sauce in the other.
Obs. Buck venison is in greatest perfection
from Midsummer to Michaelmas, and Doe from
November to January.
Neck and Shoulder of Venison (No. 64.)
Are to be managed in the same way as the
haunch ; only, as they are smaller joints, they will
not require so much time.
The best way to spit a neck, is to put three
skewers through, and put the spit between the
skewers and the bones.
Fawn, (No. 65.)
When very young, is trussed, stuffed, and
spittqd the same way as a hare ; but they are
better eating when of the size of a house iamb,
they are then roasted in quarters, and the hind
quarter is most esteemed. They must be put
down to a very quick fire, and either basted all the
time they are roasting, or be covered with sheets
of fat bacon : when done, baste it with butter, and
dredge it with a little salt and flour till you make
a nice froth on it.
Send up venison sauce with it. See the pre-
ceding receipt, or No. 344, &c.
D 1
ROASTING.
Hare. (No. 66.)
The first points of consideration are, how old is
the hare ? and how long it has been killed ? When
young, it is easy of digestion, and very nourishing ;
but when old, the contrary in every respect. To
ascertain the age, examine the first joint of the
fore foot ; you will find a small knob if it is a
leveret, which disappears as it grows older: then
examine the ears; if they tear easily, it will eat
tender, if they are tough, so will be the hare,
which will eat better stewed, or jugged, than it
will roasted. When newly killed, the body is
stiff; as it grows stale, it become limper. As soon
as you receive a hare, take out the liver, parboil
it, and keep it for the stuffing, as some are very
fond of it ; but do not use it, if it be not quite fresh
and good. Wipe the hare quite dry, rub the
inside with pepper, and hang it up in a dry cool
place.
Do not prepare too fierce a fire, or you will burn
the outside before the inside is warm.
When you have paunched and skinned your
hare, wash it and lay it in a large pan of cold
water for four or five hours, changing the water
two or three times ; lay it in a clean cloth, and
dry it well, then truss it, and take a twopenny
loaf and rub the crumb through a cullender, then
take some dried sweet herbs rubbed fine, a handful
of parsley, and a roll of very thin cut lemon peel
minced very fine, some pepper and salt, and a bit
of butter as big as a walnut: mix all well together
with the yolk of an egg, and moisten it with milk :
ROASTING.
put Ibis pudding into the belly of your hare, sew
it up tight, cut the neck skin to let the blood out, or
it will never appear to be done enough, spit it, and
put a quart of milk* into your drippingpan, and
baste it continually till you think it is nearly done,
(which it will be in about an hour and a quarter ; )
if it wants more, let it have it, or it will be hard
and dry : when almost roasted enough, put a
quarter of a pound of butter into your basting-
ladle, and baste it with this, and flour it, and
froth, it nicely. Serve with good gravy, and
currant-jelly. For another stuffing, see receipt
No. 389. Some cooks cut off the head, and
divide it, and lay one half on each side of the
hare.
Obs. Hares should always be paunched in
the field when caught, or as soon as they arc
brought home, by making an incision in the belly
about four inches long, then lay hold of the head
and ears with one hand, and the rump with the
other, shake it for a little while backwards and
forwards, and the guts and stomach will fall
out, leaving the heart, kidueys, and liver behind ;
wipe it, &c. as we have directed in the beginning
of this receipt, and put in a wisp of dry straw or
hay ; it will then keep as long again.
Cold roast hare will make an excellent soup,
chopped to pieces, and stewed in three quarts of
water for a couple of hours : the stuffing will be a
* Mrs. Charlotte Mason, in her " Complete System ofCook-
/?/?/," page 283, says she has " tried all the different things
recommended to 16 baste a hare with, and never found any
tiling so good as small beer ; our receipt snys milk ; but, pet-
hyps, after all, plain water is better than any thing,''
ROASTING.
very agreeable substitute for sweet herbs and sea-
soning. See receipt for Hare soup, No. 241.
Rabbit. (No. 67.)
If your fire is clear and sharp, thirty minutes
TV ill roast a young one, and forty minutes a full-
grown rabbit.
When you lay it down, baste it with butter,
and dredge it lightly and carefully with flour, that
you may have it frothy, and of a fine light
brown. While the rabbit is roasting, boil its liver
with some parsley; when tender, chop them toge-
ther ; melt your butter, and divide the parsley
and liver into equal parts, one of which stir into
the melted butter, and divide the other into half a
dozen small parcels, and garnish the dish with
them.
Obs. A large, well grown, but young warren-
rabbit, kept some time after it has been killed,
roasted with a stuffing in its belly, eats very like
a hare, to the nature of which it approaches, in-
asmuch it is very nice nourishing food when
young, but hard and unwholesome when old.
Pheasant (No. 68.)
Requires a smart fire, but not a fierce one.
Thirty minutes will roast a young bird ; a full
grown pheasant will require forty. Pick and
draw it, and cut a slit in the back of the neck,
and take out the craw, but don't cut the head off;
wipe the inside of the bird with a clean cloth,
twist the legs close to the body, leave the feet on,
ROASTING.
but cut the toes off; turn the head under the
wing, and skewer the wings close to the back:
baste it, butter and froth it, &c., as we have
given you instructions to do in the receipt to
roast fowls and turkeys.
Mock Pheasant. (No. 69.)
If you have only one pheasant and wish for a
companion for it, get a fine young fowl of as near
as may be the same size-as the bird (o be matched,
truss with the head on, turned exactly like the
pheasant's, and dress it according to the above
directions, and very few persons will discover
which is the pheasant, and which is the fowl,
especially if the latter has been kept four or five
days.
Partridges (No. 70.)
Are cleaned and trussed in the same manner as
a pheasant, and the breast is so plump it will re-
quire almost as much time roasting : send up with
them bread sauce, No. 321, and good gravy.
*** ffyou wish to preserve them longer than you think they
will keep good undressed, half roast them, and they will
keep two or three days longer.
Black Cock, (No. 71.) Moor Game, (No. 72.)
and Grouse, (No. 73.)
Are dressed like pheasants and partridges : the
black cock will take as much time as a pheasant,
and the moor game and grouse as the partridge :
ROASTING.
send up with them currant-jelly and fried bread
crumbs. .
Wild Ducks. (No. 74.)
For roasting a wild duck, you must have a clear
brisk fire ; for it must be browned upon the outside,
without being sodden within. To have it well froth-
ed and full of gravy is the nicety. Prepare the fire
by stirring and raking just before it is laid down,
and fifteen or twenty minutes will do it. This is
the fashionable way ; but if it is required a little
more done, allow it a few minutes more : if it is
too much, it will lose all its fine high flavour.
For the sauce, see iSo. 33$.
Widgeons and Teal (No. 75.)
Are dressed exactly as the wild duck, only that
less time is requisite for a widgeon, and still less
for a teal.
Woodcock. (No. 76.)
Spit them on a small bird spit, put them to roast
at a clear fire, and lay a slice of bread in the
tlrippingpan under them to catch the trail*;
baste them with butter, and froth them with flour;
lay the toast on a hot dish, and the birds on it;
pour some gocxl beef gravy into the dish, and
send some up in a boat : about twenty, or
* This bird, it seems, has so insinuated itselfinto the favour
of refined gourmands, that they pay it the same honours as the
grand Lama, making a ragout of its excrements, and devour-
ing them with ecstasy.
ROASTING.
twenty-five minutes will roast them. Garnish
with slices of lemon.
Snipes (No. 77.)
Differ little from woodcocks, unless in size : they
are to be dressed in the same way; only they are,
according to their smaller size, done in from five
^j f
lo ten minutes less time.
Roast Pigeons. (No. 78.)
When the pigeons arc trussed for roasting-^
chop a handful of green parsley very fine, season
it with a little pepper and salt, and fill the belly
of each bird with this mixture. Roast them at a
hot clear fire, they will be enough in about fifteen,
or twenty minutes : send up parsley and butter in
the dish under them, and some in a boat.
Obs. If the pigeons are fresh, they will this
way have their full relish, for there is no bird has
a finer flavour, but it goes entirely off with a very
little keeping ; nor is it ever so \\ell preserved as
by roasting : a little melted butter may be put
into the dish with them, and the gravy that runs
from them will mix with it into fine sauce. Pi-
geons are in their greatest perfection in September,
as there then is the most plentiful and best food
for them : and the finest growth for them is just
when they are full feathered. When they are in
the pen-fealhers they are flabby ; when they are
full grown and have flown some time, they are
hard ; just at the period of their growth, when
they are at perfection^ and have had no time to
ROASTING.
harden, (hey are best ; their juices are then in full
perfection, and the flesh in all its delicacy.
This was the secret of Solomon, the famous
pigeon-feeder of Turnham Green, who is cele-
brated by the poet Gay,
" That Turnham Green which dainty pigeons fed,
But feeds no more, for Solomon is dead."
Pigeons on a poor man's spit. (No. 79.)
Fill their bellies with parsley clean washed and
chopped, tlie livers minced fine, grated bread and
hard egg, an equal quantity of each, season it with
a very little beaten mace or nutmeg, and pounded
all together with the yolk of an egg ; tie the neck
end close, so that it cannot come out ; put a skewer
through the legs, and have a little iron on pur-
pose with six hooks to it ; on each hook hang a
pigeon, fasten one end of a string to the chmi-
ney piece, and the other end to the iron (which is
commonly called a poor man's spit,) flour them,
and baste them with butter, turn them steadily
arid gently, and they will roast very nicely, and
be full of gravy : garnish with crisp parsley.
Obs. This is by far the best way of roasting
pigeons, as it preserves their gravy : when you
roast them on a spit, much of the gravy runs out ;
if you stuff them and broil them whole, you can-
not save the gravy so well, though they are very
good with parsley and butter in the dish, or split
and broiled with pepper and salt.
Larks, and other small Birds. (No. 80.)
These delicate little birds are in high season in
November. When they are picked, gutted, and
ROASTING.
cleaned, truss them with a leaf of red sage to every
lark between the joints of the legs; beat up the
yolk of an egg, and with a feather egg the larks,
and then sprinkle them well with bread crumbs ;
cut some thin slices of fat bacon about three
inches long and an inch broad ; lay the birds in
a row, side by side, with a piece of bacon between
every two larks ; spit them on a lark spit, which
lie on to a larger spit, having a slice of bacon on
both the outsides of the larks ; baste them well
while they are roasting : for the sauce, fry some
grated bread crisped in butter, and set it to drain
before the fire that it may harden : serve the
crumbs under the larks when you dish them, and
garnish them with slices of lemon.
Wheat Ears. (No. 81.)
These birds are dressed in the same wav as
V
larks.
Lobster. (No. 82.)
See receipt for boiling, No. 176.
We give no receipt for roasting lobster, being
of opinion with Dr. King, that
" By roasting that which our forefathers boiled,
And boiling what they roasted, much is spoiled."
D 5
FRYING.
the pan as soon as the fat is melted ; as less fat Is
wanted, it gets hot so much sooner, they would be
burnt before they are done enough.
Always have a good light to fry by, that you
may see when you have got the right colour : a
lamp fixed on a stem with a loaded foot, that has
an arm which will lengthen out, and slide up and
down like a reading candlestick, is a most useful
appendage to a kitchen fire-place, which are sel-
dom light enough for the nicer operations of
cookery. After all, if you do not drain the fat
well from what you have fried, your cooking will
do you no credit, especially those things that are
full dressed in bread crumbs.
To fry fish in general, see the receipt to fry
soles, which is the only circumstantial account of
this process that has yet been printed, if the cook
will study it with a little attention, she will soon
learn to fry fish in the utmost perfection.
FRYING.
To clarify Drippings. (No. 83.)
PUT your drippings into a clean saucepan over
a clear fire ; when it is just going to boil, take it
off, and pour them into a pan half full of hot
water ; set it in a cool place till the next day,
you will find the drippings at the top of the
water as clean and white as can be.
Most people put the drippings into cold water,
but that sets them at once, and the foul parts will
not be deposited half so well.
Obs. Sweet and well cleansed drippings, and
the fat skimmings of the broth pot, will baste every
thing as well as butter, except game and poultry,
and should supply the place of butter for common
fries, and for frying most things are equal, if not
superior to lard.
To melt Suet to fry with. (No. 84.)
Cut beef or mutton suet into small thin slices,
put it into a thick and well tinned saucepan, and
set it over a very slow stove, or in an oven, till it
is all melted but the skins ; strain it into a clean
brown pan through a hair sieve. When quite cold,
tie a paper over it and keep it for use. Hogslard
is prepared in the same way.
Obs. The waste occasioned by the present
FRYING.
fashion of feeding cattle till they are almost as
much fit as lean, may, by good management, be
in some measure prevented, by cutting off the su-
perfluous suet, and preparing it as above, or make
puddings of it.
Rump Steaks fried. (No. 85.)
Let the steaks be cut rather thinner than for
broiling, put some butter into an iron fryingpan,
when it is hot lay in the steaks, and keep turning
them till they are done enough ; lay them in a hot
dish before the fire ; then put a tablespoonful of
flour into the fryingpan with half a pint of hot
water, a tablespoonful of ale, or small beer, that
is neither bitter nor stale, a tablespoonful of
mushroom catsup, a teaspoonful of salt, and
half a teaspoonful of ground black pepper ; rub
and boil up together for a couple of minutes, and
run the sauce through a hair sieve over the steaks.
v_3
Obs. We like this way of dressing a beef
steak much better than broiling, as all the gravy
is preserved, and the meat eats more tender and is
more equally dressed.
Beef Steaks and Onions. (No. 86.)
Fry (he steaks according to the directions given
in the preceding receipt; lay them on a dish to
keep hot : have ready some onions sliced as thin as
possible, fry them brown in the same pan the steaks
were fried in; when done, lake them up with a
fish slice, and lay them on the steaks, then finish
the sauce as in the foregoing receipt, or prepare
the onion sauce as No. 299.
FRYING.
Sausages. (No. 87.)
To prevent tlieir bursting in the fryingpan,
lay them in a deep dish, pour boiling water over
them, and let them be till they are cold ; then
prick them with a fork, put them into a fry-
ingpan, and shake them about till they are well
browned.
No butter or lard, &c. is required ; putting them
in the boiling water prevents the skins from
cracking.
o
Obs. Poached eggs, pease-pudding, or fried
cabbage sent up with them, are excellent ac-
companiments.
Sweetbreads full dressed. (No. 88.)
Parboil them, let them get cold, and then cut
them in pieces three quarters of an inch (hick,
dip them in the yolk of an egg, then in fine bread
crumbs, with a little pepper, salt, and very little
nutmeg ; put some fresh butter into a fryingpan ;
when it boils, put in the sweetbreads, and fry them
a fine brown. For sauce, mushroom catsup and
melted butter.
Sweetbreads plain. (No. 89.)
Parboil them, slice them as before, and fry
them a delicate brown, take care to drain the
fat well from them, and garnish them with
slices of lemon, and sprigs of parsley or chervil.
Or when parboiled, &c., dip them in the fol-
lowing batter : an ounce of flour, an egg, a table-
FRYING.
spoonful of milk, 'and the same of table beer, a
little white pepper and salt beaten together with
a wooden spoon for ten minutes : fry them a nice
brown, put a little catsup and butter in the dish,
and garnish it with fried parsley.
%* Take care to have afresh sweetbread; for it spoils
almost sooner than any thing, and should be parboiled as
soon as it comes in. This is called blanching, or setting it.
Mutton kidneys may be broiled and sent up with the sweet-
breads,
Feal Cutlets. (No. 90.)
Let your cutlets be about half an inch thick,
trim them, and flatten them with a cleaver ; you
may fry them in fresh butter, or good beef drip-
ping ; or first fry some bacon, and the fat of that
melting will leave enough in the pan to fry your
veal : when brown on one side, turn them and do
the other; or if the fire is very fierce, they must
change sides oftener. The time they will take
depends on the thickness of the cutlet and the
heat of the fire : half an inch thick will take about
fifteen minutes. Put the trimmings into a stew-
pan with a pint of water, an onion, a roll of lemon
peel, a blade of mace, a sprig of thyme and pars-
ley ; let it stew over a slow fire an hour, then
strain it, and put half an ounce of butter into a
stewpan ; as soon as it is melted, mix with it a
tablespoon ful of flour, stew it over the fire a few
minutes, then add the gravy by degrees till it is
all mixed, boil it up for five minutes, and strain it
through a tarn mis sieve, and put it to the cutlets :
you may add some browning, catsup, or lemon
pickle, &c. to it.
PRYING.
Veal Cutlets full dressed. (No. 9 1 .)
Cut your veal into pieces a little bigger than a
crown piece, chop fine, or, what is better, take a
little of the dried powder of parsley, lemon thyme
(savoury or marjoram), lemon peel a little grated,
nutmeg and mace, pepper and salt ; rub these
well together in a mortar, beat up the yolk and
white of an egg together on a plate, dip the cutlets
in it, and then strew the seasoning over them,
dip them again in the egg, and then strew some
fine bread crumbs over them, put a little butter
into a cold fryingpan over a slow fire, and fry
them a nice brown. Make gravy as in the last
receipt.
Lamb, or Mutton Chops, (No. 92.)
Are dressed in the same way.
Pork Chops. (No. 93.)
Cut as many chops from the loin as you want,
about half an inch thick ; trim them neatly ; put a
fryingpan on the fire ; as soon as it is hot, put in
your chops, turning them often till brown all over,
they will be enough in fifteen minutes : take one
upon a plate and try it ; if done, season with
pepper and salt. For gravy, keep half a table-
spoonful of the fat in the pan you fried the chops
in, put to it about a teaspoonful of flour, rub it
well together over the fire, as soon as it looks a
little brown put a teacupful of water, season
FRYING.
with salt, give it a boil up, strain through a hair
sieve to your chops, or you may send them up with
their own gravy in the dish.
Obs. A little powdered sage, &c., strewed
over thenij will give them a nice relish* See
No. 51.
BROILING.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
CLEANLINESS is extremely essential in this mode
of cookery. Keep your gridiron quite clean be-
tween the bars, and bright on the top ; and when
it is hot, wipe it well with a linen cloth : just
before you use it, rub the bars with clean mutton
suet, which will prevent the meat from being
marked by the gridiron; take care to prepare your
fire in time, so that it may burn very clear; the
briskness and clearness of Ike fire are indispensable.
Very frequent turning is necessary to some things,
and very little to others ; be very attentive to
watch the moment any thing is done; never hasten
in any manner any thing that is broiling, lest you
make smoke and spoil it. Let the bars of the
gridiron be all hot through, but yet not burning
hot upon the surface : this is the perfect and fine
condition of the gridiron ; for if it is hastily
heated, the bars will be hot enough to scorch the
tilings laid on them on the outside, as the bars
BROFLING.
must always keep away so much of the heat as
their breadth covers : it is absolutely necessary
they should be thoroughly hot before the thing
to be cooked be laid on them. The bars of
gridirons should be made concave, terminating in
a trough to catch the gravy ; and also keep the
fat from dropping into the fire and making a
smoke, which will spoil your broil. The upright
gridirons are the best, as they can be used at any
iire without fear of smoke, and all the gravy is
preserved.
BROILING.
BeefSteaks*. (No. 94.)
THOSE \vbo are nice about steaks never attempt
to have them except in weather that permits the
meat to be hung till it is tender. The best steaks
are those cut from the middle of the rump, that
has been killed at least four days, when they can
be cut about six inches long, four inches wide,
and half an inch thick, let them be beaten with a
chopper, or rolling-pin, to make them tender;
take care to have a very clear brisk fire, and
throw a little salt on it, to take off the sulphur,
make the gridiron hot, and set it slanting, to pre-
vent the fat from dropping into the fire, and
making a smoke. For want of these little atten-
tions, this very common dish, which every body
is supposed capable of dressing, seldom comes to
table in perfection.
Put a tablespoonful of catsup and a little
minced shalot into a dish before the fire, while
you broil the steak; turn it often, to keep the
gravy in : it will be done in ten minutes ; rub a
bit of butter over it, and send it up garnished with
horseradish. No, 356.
* The season for these is from the 29th of Sept. to the
$5th of March.
BROILING.
Kidneys. (No.
Cat Hie kidneys through the long 1 way. score,
* *7 Cj v x
them, and broil them over a very clear fire, turn-
ing them often till they are done, which will take
about ten minutes, if the fire is brisk. Lay them
on the dish, sprinkle them with a little salt and
pepper, and rub a piece of butter over them, or
fry them in butter, and make gravy for them in
the pan, (after you have taken out the kidneys,)
by putting in a tcaspoonful of flour ; as soon as it
looks brown, put in as much water as will make
gravy for your kidneys : they take five minutes
more to fry than to broil.
The Inside of a Sirloin of Beef . (No. 96.)
Cut out the inside of a sirloin of beef close to
the bone, in steaks nearly a quarter of an inch
thick ; take off all the skins, and season it with pep-
per and salt, then warm an ounce of butter on a
plate, just enough to melt it a little, but not to
make it into a thin oil, mix the yolk of an egg
with it, dip the steaks in on both sides, and then
in fine bread crumbs; lay them on a clean gridiron,
over a clear slow fire; if the fire is sharp, the bread
crumbs will be burnt before the beef is done :
when you turn them, take them off the fire, and
lay them on a dish to catch the gravy : when they
are dressed, put them on a hot dish with their own
gravy, and a spoonful of mushroom catsup.
A Fowl or Chicken. (No, 97.)
Pick and truss a fowl the same as for boiling, cut
it open down the back, wipe the inside clean with a
BROILING.
cloth, season it with a little white pepper and salt,
and lay it on a gridiron over a very clear slow fire,
with the inside of the fowl towards the fire ; turn
it in about ten minutes, and it will take about
ten minutes more to broil it till it is a fine brown.
Lay it on a hot dish, with mushroom sauce
thrown over it, or melted butter flavoured with
mushroom catsup or cavice : garnish with the
liver and the gizzard, slit and notched, and sea-
soned with pepper and salt, and broiled nicely
brown, and some slices of lemon. For sauce, see
No. 355.
Pigeons. (No. 98.)
Clean them well, split them down the backs,
and pepper and salt them; broil them over a
clear slow fire ; turn them often, and put a little
butter on them : when they are done, pour over
them, either stewed or pickled mushrooms, and
melted butter.
Garnish with fried sippets ; or, when the
pigeons are trussed as for boiling, flat them with a
cleaver, taking care not to break the skin, or the
backs, or breasts ; season them with pepper and
salt, dip them in melted butter, and dredge them
well with grated bread, then lay them on the
gridiron, and turn them frequently : if your fire is
not very clear, lay them on a sheet of paper well
buttered, to keep them from getting smoked.
Same sauce as in the preceding receipt.
I
VEGETABLES.
i
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
THERE is no article in -which the difference
between an elegant and an ordinary table is more
seen, than in the dressing of greens : they may be
the same at one place as at another ; however,
their look and taste are extremely different, and
this chiefly from the careless way in which they
are cooked.- As to the quality of vegetables,
freshness is their only value and excellence ;
the eye easily discovers if they have been
kept too long ; they soon lose their beauty
in all respects. Roots, greens, &c. and the
various productions of the garden, when first
gathered, are plump and firm, and have a fra-
grant freshness, that no art can give them again,
when they have lost it by being kept too long,
though it will revive them a little to put them
into cold spring water for some time. They are
in greatest perfection just before they come to
their full growth. Soft water will preserve the
VEGETABLES.
green colour best ; if you have only hard water,
put to it a teaspoonful of salt of wormwood.
Take care to wash and cleanse them from dust,
dirt, and insects: this requires great attention:
pick off all the outside leaves, and trim them
nicely, and lay them in a pan of clean water far
an hour before you dress them. They should
always be boiled in a saucepan by themselves^
and have plenty of water : if meat is boiled with
them in the same pot, they spoil the look and
taste of each other.
The water must always boil before you put in
what you intend to boil in it, which should boil
briskly, in an open saucepan ; the quicker they
boil, the greener they will be ; and when the
vegetables sink, they are generally done enough,
if the water has been kept constantly boiling ;
but if it has not, they will lose their colour.
Take them up immediately, or they will lose their
colour and goodness. Drain the water from them
thoroughly before you send them to table. This
humble branch of cookery requires very constant
attention : if vegetables are too long on the fire,
they lose all their beauty and flavour, and if they
are not thoroughly boiled tender, they are tre-
mendously indigestible, and much more trouble-
some to the stomach than underdone meats.
E
VEGETABLES.
Above all, take care your vegetables are fresh ; for
as the fishmonger often suffers for the sins of the
cook, so the cook often gets undeservedly blamed
for not well dressing vegetables, which, in this
metropolis, are often kept so long, that no art can
make them either look or eat well.
VEGETABLES.
Potatoes. (No. 102.)
ALTHOUGH this most useful vegetable is dressed
every day, in almost every family, it is very sel-
dom well prepared ; and for one plate of potatoes
that comes to table as it should, ten are spoiled.
Be careful in your choice of potatoes ; no vege-
table varies so much in quality. The reddish
kind are better than the white, but the yellowish
Looking ones are generally the best. Choose them
of a moderate size, free from all blemishes, and
fresh, and buy them in the mould ; they should
not be wetted till they are cleaned to boil. Peel and
wash them, fill the saucepan half full of potatoes
of equal size*, and put to them as much cold water
as will cover them about an inch : most boiled things
^3
are spoiled by having too little water, but potatoes
are commonly spoiled by too much : they must
merely be covered, and a little allowed for waste
in boiling, so that they may be covered at last.
Set them on a moderate fire till they boil, then
take them off, and set them by the side of the fire
to boil gently (the slower the better) till they are
soft enough to admit a fork, (there is no depend-
ence on the usual test of their cracking or break-
ing, which, if they are boiled fast, some potatoes
will do when they are not half done, and the in-
side is quite hard,) then pour the water from
them, uncover the saucepan, and set it by the side
* Or the small ones will be done to pieces before the large
ones are boiled enough.
D
VEGETABLES.
of the fire for fifteen or twenty minutes, that their
superfluous moisture may evaporate, and (hey will
become perfectly dry and mealy.
This method of managing potatoes is in every
respect superior to steaming them; they are dress-
ed in half the time, and will retain no moisture.
Obs. There are so many different sorts arid
sizes of potatoes, it is impossible to say how long
they will take doing; the best way is to try them
"with a fork. Moderate sized potatoes will gene-
rally be enough in fifteen or twenty minutes.
Potatoes boiled and broiled. (No. 103.)
Dress your potatoes exactly as before directed,
put them on a gridiron over a very clear, brisk
fire; turn them as they brown, till they are done
all over, and send them up dry, with melted but-
ter in a cup.
Potatoes fried in slices. (No. 104.)
Peel large potatoes, and slice them the thick-
ness of a two- penny piece; dry them well in a
clean cloth, flour them, and fry them in lard.
Take care that your lard and fryingpan are quite
clean; put it on a quick fire, watch it, and as
soon as it boils, and the lard is still, put in the
slices of potatoe, and keep moving them till they
are crisp ; take them up and lay them to drain on
a sieve, send them up with a very little salt spruik-
led over them.
Potatoes fried whole. (No. 105.)
When boiled as per the first receipt, put them
VEGETABLES.
into a stewpan with some nice clean beef drip--
pings, shake them about often for fear of burning
till they are of a fine brown, and crisp : drain them
\vell from the fat, arid send them up.
Obs. It will be an elegant improvement to
the three last receipts, previous to frying or
broiling the potatoes, to dip them in the yolk of
an egg, and then in fine sifted bread crumbs.
To mash Potatoes. (No. 106.)
When your potatoes are boiled, drain and dry
them perfectly, and rub them through a cullen-
der, or, what is still better, a coarse hair sieve, into a
clean stewpan : to a pound of potatoes put about
half an ounce of butter, and a large tablespoonful
of milk ; mix them well together, and put them
by the side of the fire to keep warm ; if you put
them too near they will get a bad taste.
Obs. After Lady-day, when the potatoes are
getting old and specky, this is the best way of
dressing them.
Mash Potatoes with Onions. (No. 107.)
Prepare some boiled onions by putting them
through a sieve, and mixing them with the pota-
toes. In proportioning the onions to the potatoes,
you will be guided by your wish to have more or
less oHheir flavour.
Escalloped Potatoes. (No. 108.)
Mash the potatoes as before directed ; then-
have some nice scollop shells^ very clean, and
E3
VEGETABLES.
well buttered ; put in your potatoes, make them
smooth at the top, score them across with a knife,
strew a few fine bread crumbs on them, and
sprinkle them with a paste brush with a few drops
of melted butter, and set them in a Dutch oven;
when they are browned on the top, take them care^-
fnlly out of the shells and brown the other side,
if you have no scollop shells, put them into tea-
cups.
, Roast Pot a foes. (No. 1 09.)
Wash and dry your potatoes, put them in a tin
Dutch oven, or cheese toaster ; take care not to
put them too near at first, or they will get burnt on
the outside before they are warmed through. Large
potatoes will require two hours to roast them.
Roast Potatoes under Meat. (No, 1 10.)
Peel and wash large potatoes, put them on the
fire in cold water, and let them boil till they are
half done ; drain the water from them, and put
them into an earthen dish, or small tin pan: set
them under the meat that is roasting, and baste
them with some of the drippings ; when they are
browned on one side, turn (hern and brown them
all over ; send them up round the meat, or in a
small dish.
ji
Potatoe Balls. (No. ill.)
Mix mashed potatoes with the yolk of an egg,
roll them into balls, flour them, and fry them in
clean drippings. Brown them in a Dutch oven.
VEGETABLES.
Savoury Potatoe Balls (No. 1 12.)
Are made by adding a quarter of a pound of
grated ham to a pound of mashed potatoes with
the yolk of a couple of eggs, as in the last receipt.
Obs. They are an agreeable relish to veal,
and make a good supper dish.
Casserole of Potatoes. (No. 113.)
Peel, wash, and boil your potatoes till they are
soft enough to mash ; drain and dry them well,
then mash them till they are very fine; season with
a little salt, some butter and milk ; make a wall
of about three inches high and an inch and a
half thick all round the dish; set it in a Dutch
oven till it is of a fine light brown colour.
Fill the middle with stewed rump steaks, broiled
mutton, or lamb chops ? or harrico mutton, or pork
chops.
Potatoe Snow. (No. 1 14.)
Choose those that are free from spots, and the
whitest you can pick out ; put them on to boil in
cold water, and when they begin to crack, strain,
the water from them, and put them into a clean
stewpau by the side of the fire till they are quite
dry and fall to pieces ; rub them through a sieve
on the dish they are to be sent up in, and do not
disturb them afterwards.
To dress Watery Potatoes. (No. 115.)
Wash the potatoes clean, and put them into a
E 4
VEGETABLES.
closely covered pot, without any water, on a slow
fire; the heat very soon draws out sufficient
water to stew them in, and the potatoes so
managed are dry and mealy, though the same
boiled in the common way are hardly eatable.
New Potatoes. (No. 1 16.)
The best way to clean new potatoes when they
are too young to peel, is to rub them with a coarse
cloth or a flannel, or scrubbing brush ; and pro-
ceed as in the first receipt to boil potatoes.
Jerusalem Artichokes (No. 1 1 7.)
Are boiled in the same manner as potatoes, and
dressed in the various ways we have just before
directed for potatoes.
Cabbage. (No. 118.)
Pick them very carefully clean, and wash (hem
thoroughly, and after washing, look them over
carefully again ; quarter them if you please, if
they are very large. Put them into a saucepan
with plenty of boiling water ; if any scum rises,
take it off, put a large spoonful of salt into the
saucepan, and boil them till the stalks feel tender.
A young cabbage will take about twenty minutes,
when full grown, half an hour : see that they are
well covered with water all the time, and that no
smoke or dirt arises from stirring the fire. By this
management, they will look as beautiful when
dressed, as they did when growing.
VEGETABLE?
Boiled Cabbage fried. (No. 1 190
See receipt for Bubble and Squeak.
Savoys (No. 120.)
Are boiled in the same manner, but always
quarter them when you send them to table.
Sprouts and young Greens. (No. 121.)
The receipt we have written for cabbages will
answer as well for sprouts, only they will be boiled
enough in fifteen or twenty minutes.
Spinach. (No. 122.)
Spinach should be picked a leaf at a time, and
washed in three or four waters : when perfectly
clean, lay it on a sieve, or cullender, to drain the
water from it. Put a large saucepan on the fire
three parts filled with water ; when it boils, put a
small handful of salt to it, with the spinach, let it
boil as quick as possible till quite tender ; it will
be enough in about ten minutes, if boiled in plenty
of water; if the spinach is a little old, give it a
couple of minutes longer. When done strain it
on the back of a sieve, squeeze it dry with a plate,
or between two trenchers, chop it fine, and put it
into a stewpan with a bit of butter and a little
salt ; a little cream is a great improvement Spread
it in a dish, and cut it into squares of proper size
to help at table.
Obs. A little grated nutmeg is a favourite ad-
E 5
VEGETABLES.
dition with some cooks, and is added when you
stir it up in the stewpan \vith the butter.
Asparagus. (No. 123.)
Set a pan of cold wafer upon the fable, and a
stewpan with plenty of wafer in it on the fire ;
sprinkle a handful of salt info it, and while it is
heating prepare your asparagus. Scrape all the
stalks till they are perfectly clean, throw them
into the pan of cold water as you scrape them ;
when they are all done, tie them up in little bun-
dles, with bass if you can get it, or tape; string
cuts them to pieces : cut off the stalks at the bot-
tom that they may be all of a length, leaving just
enough to serve as a handle for the green part;
put them on when the water boils ; when they are
tender at the stalk, which will be in about ten
minutes, they are done enough. Great care must
be taken to watch the exact time of their becom-
ing tender, and take them up just at that instant,
and they will have their true flavour and colour,
but a minute or two more boiling destroys both.
While the asparagus are boiling, toast a round
of a quartern loaf about half an inch thick, brown
it delicately on both sides, dip it lightly in the
liquor of the asparagus, and lay it in the middle
of a dish ; melt some butter, then lay in the aspa-
ragus upon the toast all round the dish, with the
ends of the stalks outwards. Pour no butter over
them, but send it up in a boat. To the common
melted butter, you may add a little pepper and
salt, a teaspoonful of vinegar, and the yolk of a
couple of eggs, beat up, and carefully mixed to
keep them from curdling.
VEGETABLES.
Sea Kail (No. 124.)
Is tied up in bundles, and dressed exactly in
the same way as asparagus.
Cauliflower. (No. 125.)
Cboose those that are close and white, trim off
the outside leaves, cut the stalk off flat at the bot-
tom, let them lie in salt and water an hour before
you boil them, put them into boiling water with a
handful of salt in it, and let it boil slowly till done,
which a small one will be in fifteen, a very large
one in twenty minutes, and take them up care-
fully with a slice.
Brocoli. (No. 126.)
The great art in dressing brocoli is, that it be
not overboiled, and yet boiled enough. Set a pan
of clean cold water on the table, and a saucepan
on the fire with plenty of w r ater, and a handful of
salt in it : the brocoli is prepared by stripping
off all the side shoots, leaving the top: peel oil
the skin of the stalk with a knife, cut it off at the
bottom, and put them into the pan of cold water :
when the water in the stewpan boils, and all the
brocoli is ready, put it in, let it boil briskly till the
stalks feel tender, and take it up with a slice, that
you may not break it ; let it drain, and serve up:
if some of the heads of brocoli are much bigger
than the others, put them on to boil first, so that
they may get all done together. '
Obs. It makes a nice supper dish served
upon a toast, like asparagus.
VEGETABLES.
Red Beet Roots (No.
Are not so much used as they deserve ; they are
boiled exactly in the same way as parsnips : a
large root will take an hour and a half boiling ; to
be sent to table with salt fish, boiled beef, &c.
Parsnips (No. 128.)
Are to be done just in the same manner as carrots,
only give them as much water as you can ; they
require more or less time according to their size,
and you must try them by thrusting a fork into
them as they are in the water; when that goes
easily through, they are done enough : an hour
and a quarter will boil a large parsnip.
Obs. Parsnips are sometimes sent up mashed
in the same way as turnips.
Carrots. (No. 129.)
Let them be well washed and brushed, not
scraped ; half an hour is enough for young spring
carrots; grown carrots will take an hour and a
half; and the large Sandwich kind full two hours.
When done, rub off the peels with a clean coarse
cloth, and slice them in two or four, according to
their size. The best way to try if they are done
enough, is to pierce them with a fork.
MJjurnips. (No. 130)
Peel off half an inch of the stringy outside ; fuH-
grown turnips will take thirty minutes gentle boil-
ing ; (if they boil too fast, they will burst ;) try
VEGETABLES.
them with a fork ; when tender, take them up, and
lay them on a sieve ten minutes, to drain the
water thoroughly from them.
Obs. Young turnips should not be peeled.
To Mash Turnips. (No. 131.)
When they are boiled quite tender, squeeze
them as dry as possible between two trenchers,
put them into a saucepan, and mash them with a
wooden spoon, add a little bit of butter, keep
stirring- them till the butter is melted and well
mixed with them, and they are ready for table.
Turnip tops (No. 132.)
Are the shoots which grow out, in the spring, of
the old turnip roots. Put them into cold water
an hour before they are dressed ; the more water
they are boiled in, the better they will look ; if
boiled in a small quantity of water, they will taste
bitter ; when the water boils, put in a small hand-
ful of salt, and then your vegetables ; if fresh and
young, they will be done in about twenty
minutes : drain them on the back of a sieve.
French Beans. (No. 133.)
Cut off the stalk end, and beginning at the
other, string them carefully ; the strings are very
tender when they first come in, but are as hard, in
proportion to the beans then, as they are when
more grown : cut off the stalks and tips; let a bowl
of spring water, with a little salt dissolved in it,
VEGETABLES.
stand before you, and as the beans are cleaned
and stringed, throw them in : when all are done,
put them on the fire, in boiling water, with some
salt in it ; when they have boiled fifteen or twenty
minutes, take one out and taste it; as soon as
they are tender*, throw them into a cullender,
drain them, and lay them on a plate, in a little
heap, highest in the middle. To send up the beans
whole is much the best method, when they
are thus young, and their delicate flavour
and colour are much better preserved. When
a little more gro\\n, they must be cut across
in two, after stringing ; and for common tables,
they are to be split first, and cut across after-
wards; but those who are nice, never have
them at such a growth as to require splitting.
When they are very large, they look very pretty
cut into lozenges ; in this case they are not split.
Green Peas. (No. 134.)
Young green peas well dressed, are one of the
most delicious delicacies of the vegetable kingdom.
They must be young, or no art can boil them ten-
der ; it is equally indispensable that they be fresh
gathered, and cooked as soon as they are shelled,
for, by being exposed to the air, they soon lose
both their colour and sweetness, and if you wisb
to feast upon peas in perfection, you must have
them gathered the same day they are dressed, and
* If you wish to have them very green, when they are done
throw them instantly into cold water; when you wish to send
them to table, warm them again in a tureen of boiling
water.
VEGETABLES.
put on to boil within half an hour after they are
shelled. Pass them through a coarse sieve, which
is made for the purpose. This precaution of se-
parating them is necessary, for large and small peas
cannot be boiled together, as, of course, the former
will take more time than the latter. For a peck of
peas, set on a saucepan with a gallon of water in it ;
when it boils, put in your peas with a tablespoonful
of salt, and two teaspoonsful of lump sugar ; keep
them boiling quick from twenty to thirty minutes,
according to their age and size : the best way to
judge of their being done enough, and indeed, the
only way to make sure of cooking them so, and
not beyond the point of perfection, as the pea
eaters say of" boiling them to a bubble," is to
take some out with your spoon and taste them.
When they are enough, drain them on a hair
sieve, put them into a pye dish, divide some
butter into small bits, and lay them on the peas ;
put another dish over them, and turn them over ;
this will melt the butter through them, and is by
far the best way of buttering peas.
Obs. You may boil a few sprigs of mint in a
saucepan by themselves, and garnish your dish of
peas with them : see Pea Powder.
Cucumber Stewed. (No. 135.)
Peel and cut your cucumbers into slices nearly
a quarter of an inch thick ; flour and dry them in
butter ; let the butter be quite hot before you put
in the cucumbers ; fry some sliced onions with
them till they are a delicate light brown colour,
the'n put them into a stewpan, with as much gravy
VEGETABLES.
ns will cover (hem ; stew slowly (ill they are tender;
this will take about an hour : take out the cucum-
bers with a slice, thicken the giavy with flour
and butter, give it a boil up, and season it with
pepper and sal?, put the cucumber in to warm,
and it is ready,
Obs. The relish of this dish is sometimes aug-
mented by the addition of bay leaves, anchovies,
wine, ale, and the savoury spices-
Artichokes. (No. 136.)
Wrench out the stalk close to the bottom, by
which the fibres will be drawn out, put them
into cold water, and wash them well, then,
put them into plenty of boiling water, with a
handful of salt, and let them boil gently till they
are tender, which will take an hour and a half, or
two hours ; drain them on a sieve ; and send up
melted butter with them.
Stew Onions. (No. '137.)
The large Portugal onions are the best for this
purpose ; take off' the coats of half a dozen of these,
taking care not to cut offthe tops or tails too near,
or the onions will go to pieces; put them into a
stewpan big enough to hold them without laying
them a top of one another; just cover them with
good broth ; as soon as it boils fast, add to them
half an ounce of lump sugar, put them on a very
slow fire, and let it simmer two hours, till the
broth is reduced to a glaze; when you dish
VEGETABLES.
them, turn them upside do\vn ; pour the sauce
over them.
This is a very elegant preparation of onions.
Roast Onions. (No. 138.)
They are clone best in a Dutch oven, turning
them occasionally, that they may be done equally
on all sides,
FISH.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS,
THIS department of the business of the kitclien
depends more upon practice than any other; a
very few moments too much or too little, and the
fish is spoilt. So many circumstances operate on
this occasion, it is almost impossible to write rules
that are generally applicable. There are de-
cidedly different opinions, whether the water
should be cold, tepid, or boiling. The Dutch,
who are famous for dressing fish, always use the
latter. See No. 141. We believe for some of the
fame the Dutch cooks have acquired they are
a little indebted to their situation enabling them
to always have fi^li in perfection; and that the su-
perior excellence of the fish in Holland, is because
none are used, unless they are brought alive into
the kitchen, (except mackerel, which die the
moment they are taken out of the water.) The
Dutch are as nice about this as, Seneca says, the
FISH.
Romans were; who, complaining of (he luxury
of the times, says, they are come to that dainti-
ness, they will not eat a fish, unless upon the
same day that it is taken, that it may taste of the
sea, as they express it.
On the Dutch flat coast, the fish are all taken
with nets ; whereas, on our rocky coast, fish are
mostly caught by bait and hook, which imme-
diately kills them. The fish are brought alive by
land, to the Dutch markers in water-casks with air
holes in the top. Salmon, and other fish, is thus
preserved in rivers, in a well-hole, in the fishing
boat.
The good folks of this metropolis are so often
disappointed, by having fish which have been
kept too long, they are apt to run into the other
extreme, and suppose no fish will either dress
well, or eat well, unless it is quite alive. Some
very respectable fishmongers have, however,
assured the editor, that they are oftener in danger
of losing their credit, by selling fish too fresh, and
that especially turbot and cod must be kept a day
or so after they are dead, before they will eat
well; and, like meat, require a certain time
before they are in the best condition to be dressed :
then they recommend them to be put into water,
(salted in proportion of half a pint of salt to a gal-
FISH,
Ion of water,) (hat you should have just stopped
the boiling of, by pouring- in, just before you put
in the fish, a pint of cold water, and let them boil
slowly till done.
F I S IT.
Turbot to Boil. (No. 140.)
CLEAN and wash a nice white turbot, cut it
across the thickest part of the underside ; this
is to prevent it breaking on the breast, which
happens from the fish swelling 1 , and cracking the
skin, if this precaution is not used : lay it in a
fish kettle, with the white side upwards ; put
a large handful of salt on it, cover it with
cold spring water, set it on a hot fire till it boils,
skim it carefully, and set it on the side of the fire,
to boil gently for about twenty minutes, (if it boils
fast, the fish will break to pieces;) supposing the
fish to weigh eight or nine pounds ; for sixteen
or eighteen pounds, an hour. Send it up on a
fish-drainer, garnished with sprigs of green pars-
ley. Save a little of the inside coral spawn of the
lobster, rub it through a hair sieve, without butter.
When the turbot is dished, sprinkle the spawn
over it. Garnish the dish with sprigs of curled
parsley, sliced lemon, and finely scraped horse-
radish ; and, if you like to send it to table in full
dressed, surround it with some nicely fried smelts.
Send up lobster sauce (see receipt, No. 294,)
in a boat, or two boats, if it is for a large party.
Dutch method of Boiling Turbot. (No. 141.)
In boiling a large turbot, four or five handfuls
FISH
of salt are put into the water it is to be boiled in ;
which strong brine makes the fish crimp and
savoury ; the thick- parts of the fish are cut, or
scored, to admit the salt water. The salt must be
put into cold water ; but before the fish is put in,
the water must boil strongly. A large turbot will
be well boiled in half an hour. (From Mr. Twiss
the traveller.)
Turbot to Fry. (No. 142.)
Clean a small turbot well, and dry it in a cloth,
beat an egg on a plate ten minutes, wash the fish
all over with the egg, then cover it with fine bread
crumbs, that have been rubbed through a hair
sieve : have some clean lard, or dripping in an iron
fryingpan, over a hot fire ; when it has done talking,
and. is quite still, put the fish in; in about four
minutes turn it, and fry it on the other side ; when
done, lay it on a hair sieve, to drain the fat
from it.
Lobster or shrimp sauce.
A Brill (No. 143.)
Is dressed the same way as a turbot.
Soks to Boil. (No. 144.)
Wash and clean your soles well, put them into
a fish-kettle, with a handful of salt, and as much
cold spring water as will cover them ; put them on a
quick fire, and when they boil, set them on the
side of the fire to boil gently ten minutes ; that
will be long enough, unless they be very large.
FISH.
Send them up on a fish-drainer, garnished with
sprigs of parsley.
Obs. Slices of lemon are a very universally
acceptable garnish, with either fried or boiled
fish ; a few sprigs of crisp parsley may be added,
if you wish to make it look very smart.
Soles to Fry. (No. 145.)
Be sure your soles are quite fresh , or all the
good cooks in the world cannot make them either
look or eat well. An hour before you intend (o dress
them, wash them thoroughly, and wrap them in
a clean cloth, to make them perfectly dry, or the
bread crumbs will not stick to them. Beat the
yolk and white of an egg well together, on a plate,
with a fork ; flour your fish, to absorb any mois-
ture that may remain, and wipe it oft* with a clean
cloth : dip them in the egg on both sides all over ;
or, what is better, egg them with a paste-brush,
rub some stale bread through a cullender, or hair
sieve, strew it all over the fish, so that it covers
every part, and take up the fish by the head, and
shake off the loose crumbs. The sole is now
ready for the fryingpan.
Put a pint or more of fresh sweet olive oil, or a
pound of lard*, or beef suet, (the fat ought to cover
the fish ; what we here order, is for a middling-
sized pair of soles,) into a fryingpan, over a sharp
and clear fire; watch it, and when it boils, i. e. when
it has done bubbling, and is still, and the smoke
* The fat will do two or three times, if strained through a
hair sieve, and put by ; if you do not find it enough, put a
little fresh to it.
FISH.
just begins to rise from the surface, (iftbe fat is
not extremely hot, it is impossible to fry fish of a
good colour, or to make them firm and crisp.
The best way to ascertain the heat of the fat, is to
try it with a bit of bread as big as a nut, if it is
quite hot enough, the bread will be brown imme-
diately,) put in the fish, it will be crisp and
broun on the side next the fire, in about four or
five minutes ; to turn it, stick a two pronged fork
near the head, and support the tail with a fish-
slice, and fry the other side : one sole is enough
(o put in at a time, except the pan is very large,
and you have plenty of fat. When your fish are
fried, lay them on whited brown paper, on a hair
sieve, placed slanting, and near enough the fire to
keep them warm, till the fat is thoroughly drained
from them ; this will take five or ten minutes.
When soles are fried, they will keep very good
in a dry place for four days, and eat as well as
when fresh dressed, if you warm them in a Dutch
oven, or in good gravy.
Obs. There are several general rules in this re-
ceipt which apply to all fried fish : we have been
very particular and minute in our directions ; for,
although a fried sole is a very frequent and
favourite dish, it is very seldom brought to table
in perfection. Batter will occasionally supply the
place of egg ; and biscuit, powder of bread
crumbs : the latter is sold at Russell's excellent
biscuit shop, nearly opposite Villiers Street in the
Strand *.
The very indifferent manner in which the operation of
frying fish is usually performed, we suppose produced the
following jeu d' esprit, nhich appeared a few months since
FISH.
Soles to Stew. (No. 146.)
These arc done the same as eels, Wiggy's way,
in good gravy. See JSo. 164.
Fillets of Soles Fried. (No. 147.)
Take the fillets of a pair of good soles, trim
them neatly, and wipe them on a dry cloth ; beat
the yolk and \vhi(e of an e<rg together on a plat
for five minutes, dip the fillets into the egg, and
then into fine stale bread crumbs, that have been
rubbed through a hair sieve. Have some clean
lard hot in an iron fryingpan; put in the fillets and
fry them of a fine brown colour; Jay them on a
hair sieve as you do them, and keep them hot
before the fire till the following sauce is ready.
Make half a pint of good melted butter squeeze
in the juice of a lemon, lay the fillets of soles round
the dish, and pour the sauce into the middle.
Fillets of Soles, Jrhite. (No. 148.)
Take off the fillets, trim them, and cut them in
two ; butter a clean earthen dish or pan, lay the
fillets in it, and butter a paper cut to the size of
the dish, and lay it close to the fillets, set it in a
cool oven, or over a very slow fire, for about fif-
teen or twenty minutes; take them up, and dry
in that ably conducted daily register, " The Morning Chro-
nicle."
" The King's Bench Reports have cook'd up an odd dish,
An action for damages, Fry versus Fish.
But sure, if for damages action could lie,
It certainly must have been Fish against Fry"
F
FISH.
them on a sheet of clean paper, or on a clean nap-
kin : dish on a hot dish, and pour a liUle good
white sauce over them.
Cud Boiled. (No. 149.)
Clean and wash your fish, and rub a little salt
in the inside of it ; if (he weather is very cold, a
large cod is always the better for being kept a
day: put plenty of water in your fish-kettle, so
that the fish may be well covered ; put in a hand-
ful of salt: when the water boils, stop its boiling
by pouring in a pint of cold water, and then put
in your fish ; a very small fish will require from
twenty to thirty minutes, a very large one near
an hour; drain it on the fish-plate ; dish it with,
garnish of the roe, liver, chitterling, &c.
Salt Fish Boiled. (No. 150.)
Salted fish requires soaking, according to the
time it has been in salt; that which is hard and
dry requires two nights soaking ; the intermediate
day lay it on a stone floor ; for the barrelled cod,
less time will do ; and for the best Dogger Bank
split fish, which has not been more than a fort-
night or three weeks in salt, less time will bo
c? '
needful. Put it on in cold water.
Slices of Cod Boiled. (No. 151.)
Lay the slice of fish at the bottom of a fish-
kettle, with as much cold spring water as will
cover it, and a large handful of salt ; set it on a
quick fire, and when it boils, set it on one side of
the fire to boil gently, for ten minutes, or a quar-
FISH.
ferofan hour, according to the size of the
Ciarnish with a slice of the liver on one side, and
chitterlings on the other. Oyster sauce aud plain-
butter.
Codlings Broiled. (No. 152.)
Wash them well, dry them in a cloth, beat an
egg on a plate well, dip the fish in the egg, and
then flour them all over; lay them on a clean
gridiron over a slow and clear tire ; when they
are done on one side, turn them gently ; they will
take about twenty minutes, or half an hour. An-
chovy sauce.
Whitings Fried. (No. 153.)
Skin them, and fasten their tails to their
mouths; dip them in egg, and then in bread
crumbs, and fry them in hot lard ; lay them in
the pan with their backs towards the lire, and let
the fat boil over them, but do not turn them, they
are more liable to break than any fish.
Obs. When whitings are very scarce and
dear, the fishmongers can skin aud truss young
codlings, so 4 hat you can hardly tell the differ-
ence. A codling has a beard under its mouth,
which a whiting has not : this distinguishing
mark is sometime* cut off; however, if you look,
you will soon see the mark where the beard was,
and thus discover if it is a whiting or a shaved
codling.
o
Skate Fried. (No. 154.)
After you have cleaned them thoroughly,
FISH*
divide it into fillets, dry them on a clean cloth ; beat
the yolk and white of an egg together on a plate
for five minutes, clip the fish in this, and then in
fine bread crumbs ; fry it in hot lard or drippings
till they are of a beautiful brown colour ; lay
them on a hair sieve to drain -, garnish with crisp
parsley.
Plaice or Flounders Fried. (No. 155.)
Clean them well, and wipe them oa^a dry cloth
to absorb all the water from them ; flour them and
fry- them in hot lard, and send them up with
plain butter in a boat, or anchovy sauce.
Water Souchy. (No. 156.)
This, I believe, is a Dutcli dish, and is made
of several small fish, such as flounders, plaice,
\vhiting, gudgeons, eels, or perch; these must be
very fresh, and very clean, for what they are
boiled in is sent up with them : cut noches in
your lish and throw them into fresh spring water ;
(this is what is called crimping fish) ; put them
into a stewpan with as much water as you think
will fill the dish, with some parsley leaves and
parsley roots, a glass of white wine, and a table-
spoonful of vinegar, and as much salt as you
would for broth ; take care to skim it well when
it boils ; when your fish is done enough, send it
up in a deep dish, with some slices of bread and
butter on a plate.
Haddocks Boiled. (No. 157.)
Wash it well, and put it on to boil in as much
FISH.
cold water as will cover it, with plenty of salt in
it; a haddock of three pounds will take twenty
minutes after it boils. These are sometimes stuf-
fed with the same stuffing- you put to veal.
Carp to Stew. (No. 158.)
"VV^hen your fish has been properly washed, lay
it in a tish kettle, with a pint of port wine and
about as much water as will half cover it; a bay
leaf, a carrot, a large onion, a head of celery, a
dozen berries of black pepper, the same of all-
spice, and an ounce of lean ham ; cover the* fish
kettle close, and let it stew gently for half an hour;
take the iish up, lay it on a hot dish, and thicken
the liquor that it was boiled in with flour; season
with pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg;
when it has boiled ten minutes, strain it through
a tarn mis into a clean stewpan, make it very hot,
and pour it over the tish ; -if there is more sauce
than the dish will hold, send the rest up in a boat.
Perch Fried. (No. 159.)
Wash the fish well, and wipe them on a dry
cloth, flour them lightly all over, and fry them
ten minutes in hot lard or drippings; when they
are fried, lay them on a hair sieve to drain ; send
them up on a hot dish : garnish with sprigs of
green parsley. Anchovy sauce.
Perch Boiled. (No. 1 60.)
Clean them carefully, and put them in a fish
kettle, with as much cold spring water as will
FISH.
.cover them, with a handful of salt; set them on a
quick fire till they boil ; when they boil, set them
on one side to boil gently for ten minutes.
.
Sa Imon Fielded. (No. 161.)
Cut a salmon into pieces and put it into a fish
kettle, with a large handful of salt, and cold spring
wafer enough to cover it ; when it boils set it on
one side of the fire to boil gently half an- houn;
when it is enough, dry it on a clean cloth.
Put the top of the salmon liquor into a stewpair,
to which add the same quantity of white wine
vinegar, a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper,
the same of allspice, and two bay leaves; set it
on the tire to boil ten minutes ; skim it well ;
take it off the fire, and when it is cold, pour it
over the fish and tie it down ; in three days it may
he turned, and in a week it will be tit for eating,
and will remain so for several months. Garnish
with sprigs of fennel.
Obs. This is in the finest condition when fresh
salmon is most plentiful about Midsummer; the
season for it is from February to September*.
Salmon Boiled. (No. 162.)
Put on a fish kettle, with as much spring water
as will cover the salmon you are going to dress.
When the water boils, put in a large handful of
* The three marks of the goodness of pickled snlrnon are,
1st. The brightness of the scales, and their sticking fast to the
skin. 2dly, The firmness of the flesh; and 3dlj, Its fine red
colour.
FISH.
suit, 4ake off (he scum, if any rises, have the fish
well washed, put it in, and let it boil half an hour.
Salmon Broiled. (No. 163.)
Clean the salmon well, and cut it into slices
three inches thick, dry it thoroughly in a clean
-cloth, and rub it all over with sweet oil, or thick
melted butter, and sprinkle a little salt over it ;
put your gridiron over a clear fire, at some dis-
tance ; when it is hot, wipe it clean, and then rub
it with sweet oil or lard ; lay the salmon on, and
when it is done on one side, turn it gently and broil
the other side. Anchovy sauce.
Eels Stewed Wiggys way. (No. 1 64.)
Take two pounds of fiae silver* eels ; the best
size are those that are not much less than a three-
shilling 1 piece in circumference, quite fresh, full
of life, and as brisk as an eel ; such as have beea
'kept out of water till they can scarce stir, are
good for nothing. Gut them and rub them with
salt till the slime is cleaned from them, wash them
in three different waters, and divide them into
pieces about four inches long: you mny season
them with salt, and beaten mace or nutmeg, and
then egg and bread crumb them ; dredge them
with a little flour, and fry them in drippings till
they are brown $ lay them to dry on a hair sieve.
* The yellow eels are apt to taste muddy; the whiteness
of the belly of the fish, is not the only mark to know the best;
the right colour of the back is H coppery hue, very bright; the
olive coloured are inferior; and those tending to a green are
worse.
F 4
FISH.
Have ready a quart of good beef gravy ; it must
be quite cold when you put the eels into it, or the
skin of (he eels will crack, and the beauty of this
dish consists in sending them up whole : set them
on a slow fire till they boil, then put them by the
side of the fire to simmer very gently for a quarter
of an hour, take them out of the stewpan with a
fish slice, be careful not to bruise their skins, lay
them on a dish about two inches deep, mix two
teaspoonsful of flour with two tablespoons ful of
port wine, stir it into the sauce by degrees, and
strain it over the fish through a tammis sieve.
Obs. To kill eels instantly, without the horrid
torture of cutting and skinning them alive, pierce
the spinal marrow close to the back part of the
skull with a sharp pointed skewer : if this be done
in the right place, all motion will instantly cease.
To fry Eds. (No. 165.) \
Skin and gut them, and wash them well in cold
water, cut them in pieces four inches long, season
them with pepper and salt, beat an egg well on a
plate, dip them in the egg, and then in fine bread
crumbs ; fry them in fresh clean lard, drain them
well from the fat, garnish with crisp parsley ; for
sauce, plain melted butter 3 with the juice of half
a lemon in it.
Spitchcocked Eels. (No. 166*.)
This the French cooks call the English way of
dressing eels, and though not of their own inven-
tion, they frequently send it up to the best tables.
Take two middling-sized fine silver eels, leave
FISH.
the skin on, cut off the Leads, slit them on the
belly side, and take out the bone and guts, and
wash and wipe them nicely, and then cut them
into pieces about three inches long, wipe them
quite dry, put two ounces of butter into a stewpan
with a little minced parsley, thyme, sage, pepper,
and salt, and a very little chopped shallot ; set the
stewpan over the fire ; when the butter is melted,
stir the ingredients together, and take it off the
fire, mix the yolks of two eggs with them, and
dip the eel in, a piece at a time, and then roll
them in bread crumbs, making as much stick to
them as you can ; then rub a gridiron with a bit of
suet, set it high over a very clear fire, and broil
your eels of a fine crisp brown : dish them with
crisp parsley, and send up plain butter in a boat,
and anchovy and butter.
Obs. We like them better with the skin off;
it is very apt to offend delicate stomachs.
Mackarel Boiled. (No. 16?.)
This fish loses its life as soon as it leaves the sea,
and the fresher it is the better. They are very
tender fish, and the less you handle them the bet-
ter. Wash and clean them thoroughly, put
them into cold water with a handful of salt in it ;
be careful not to let them boil, but only simmer
about ten minutes, till they are enough, which you
will discover by their beginning to split at the tail ;
do not let them stand in the water after they are
done, being so delicate that the heat of the water
will break them. This fish rarely appears at table
in perfection; either the mackarel is boiled too
much, or the roe too little. The best way is to
FISH,
open a slit opposite the middle of the roe; this
will allow the wnter access, and tiie roe will then be
done as soon as the fish, which it is seldom other-
wise ; and some sagacious gourmands insist upon
it they must be taken out and boiled separately.
Mackarel Soused. (No. 168.)
After boiling them as above directed, put into
the liquor they were boiled in a few peppercorns^
some salt, and half as much vinegar, boil up
together, and when the mackarel are cold pour
this over them. There must be enough of it to
cover them completely. They will be good in two
days, and keep so a fortnight. Send them to table
garnished with sprigs of fennel.
Mackarel Broiled. (No. 169.)
Clean a fine large mackarel, wipe it on a dry
cloth, and cut a long slit down the back ; fill it
with parsley and fennel, equal quantities of each
minced fine, season it with pepper and salt and a
little butter, oil it on both sides, and lay it on
a clean gridiron over a very clear slow fire ; when
it is done on one side turn it, but be careful that
it does not burn ; send it up with fennel sauce in a
boat, or plain butter with mushroom catsup or soy
in it.
Mackarel Baked. (No. 170.)
Cut off their heads, open them, and take out
the roes, and clean them thoroughly, rub them on
the inside with a little pepper and salt, put the
FISH.
roes in again, season them (with a mixture of
pondered allspice, black pepper and salt, well
rubbed together) on both sides, and lay them close
in a bakingpan, lay a couple of bay leaves on the
top, cover them with equal quantities of cold vine-
gar and water, tie them down with strong* white
paper doubled, bake them for an hour in a slow
oven. They will keep for a fortnight.
Mackarel Pickled. (No, 171.)
Procure them as fresh as possible, split them
open, take off the heads, and trim off all the thin
part of the belly, put them into salt and water for
one hour, drain and wipe your fish, and put
them into jars or casks, with the following prepa-
ration. Take salt and bay salt, one pound each,
saltpetre and lump sugar, two ounces each, white
pepper, half an ounce, and cardanunn seeds, one
dram ; grind and pound the spices and 'salt well
together, put the fish into jars or casks, with a
layer of the preparation at the bottom, then a layer
of mackarel with the skin side downwards ; so
continue alternately till the cask or jar is full ;
press it down and cover it close. In six months
they will be fine, and fit for use, and will keep for
a couple of years, or more, in prime condition,
and the flavour will be delicious.
Broiled Sprats. (No. I/O.)*
Have an iron wire as thick as packthread, and
as long as your gridiron is broad ; run this through
the head of your sprats, sprinkle a little flour aiid
salt over them, put your gridiron over a clear
FISH.
quick fire, lurn them in about a couple of minutes ;
when the other side is brown, draw out the wire,
and send up the fish with melted butter in a cup.
Herrings Broiled. (No. 171.)*
Wash them well, and then dry them with a
cloth, dust them with flour, and broil them over a
slow fire till they are well done. Send up good
melted butter in a boat.
Herrings Soused. (No. 172.)
Cut off the heads of two dozen fine fresh her-
rings, open and wash them very clean, season
them with salt, allspice, and black pepper, put
them into a pot, and cover them with white wine,
vinegar and water, equal parts of each, tie the
pot up close, and set it in a slow oven to bake for
two hours. They will keep a month or six weeks.
Smelts Fried. (No. 173.)
Clean and dry them thoroughly in a cloth, beat
an egg on a plate, and dip them in it, then in fine
bread crumbs that have been rubbed through a
sieve ; fry them in clean lard ; as soon as the lard
boils and is still, put in the fish. It will take
about five minutes to give them a fine gold colour.
Drain them on a hair sieve. When quite dried,
send them up on a hot dish, with shrimp sauce in
a boat.
FISH.
Pickled Shrimps, the American
(No. 174.)
Pick (he finest shrimps, and put thorn into
\vhite wine vinegar with some salt in it; put them
into wide-mouthed bottles.
Potted Shrimps, or Praams. (No. 175.)
When you have picked them, powder them
with a little beaten mace, grated nutmeg, white
pepper and salt, add a little cold butter, and pound
all well together in a marble mortar till it is the
consistence of paste. Put it into pots covered
with clarified butter.
Lobster. (No. 176.)
Always buy them alive, for those who sell them
sometimes keep them too long before they boil
them, and they then have not half their flavour.
Choose those that are full of motion, which is the
index of their freshness. The heaviest are gene-
rally the best, and those of a middle size. Never
take them when the shell is encrusted, which is a
sign they are old. The male lobster is preferred
to eat, aud the female on account of her eggs to
make sauce of. The female lobster is distinguished
by having a broader tail than the male, and less
claws. Set on a pot of water with a tablespoonful of
salt in it, having tied the tail of the lobiter fast to
the body, when the water boils put it in, and, if very
large, keep it boiling briskly for half an hour ;
wipe all the skuna off it, and set it by till it is
FISH.
cold, then rub the shell with a very little butter or
sweet oil, to make it shim-; break off the great
claws, crack them carefully in each joint, so that
they trriy not be shattered to pieces, and yet come
to pieces easily, cut the tail down the middle, and
send up the body whole.
*** These fish come in about April, and continue plentiful
till the Oyster season begins.
>
Crab. (No. 177.)
The above observations apply to crabs, which
should n ither be loo small nor too large. The
best size are those which measure from eight to
ten inches across the shoulders.
V Crabs make their appearance and disappearance about the
same time as Lobsters. The Cramer Crabs are most esteemed.
Potted Lobster. (No. 178.)
Select fine hen lobsters when full of spawn, boil
them thoroughly, pick out all the eatable parts,,
and pound them in a mortar, adding to them by
degrees finely-pounded mace, black pepper, salt,
and a lift!" clarified butter. When the whole is
we! nixed, and beat to ihe consistence of paste,
press it down hard in a preserving- pot, pour clari-
fied butter over it, and keep it close covered.
Lobster Cake. (No. 179.)
Pick the meat out of a couple of lobsters, let
one of them be a hen, on account of the live
spawn, mince and pound it in a mortar, with two
boned, washed, beheaded arid totalled anchovies*
F i s ir.
Lalf an ounce of butter, the yolks of three eg<ys, a
teacupful of finely-grated stale bread, and a little
beaten mace. Line a preserving-pot with sheets
of fat bacon, put in the mixture, cover it with
bacon, and bake it for an hour and a half. Let it
remain till cold. When you wish to $et it out,
put the mould in warm water a few minutes, and
it will come out Take away the bacon. Send
up the cake garnished with green parsley, &c.
Lobster Pudding. (No. 1 80.)
Pick all the meat out of a hen lobster, and
pound it in a mortar with a handful of bread
crumbs, two yolks of eggs, and two ounces of
butter, pepper, salt, {Hid nutmeg, to your taste, beat
the whole well together, put it in a basin or mould
to boil an hour.
Obs. The sauce for the above is the spawn of
the lobster pounded in a mortar, with a little but-
ter and half a lablespoonful of water. Mix it with
melted butter, and pour it over the pudding. It
should look quite red, and cover the bottom of tho
dish.
Oyster*. (No. 181.)
The common* Colchester and Feversham oys-
ter are brought to market on the 5th of August;
the Milton, or as they are commonly called, the
* Those are called common oysters which are picked up on
the French coast, and laid, in the Colchester beds. These
are never so fat and fine as the natives.
FISH.
melting natives*, do not come lill the beginning
of October, continue in season till the 12<h of May,
and reach the meridian of their perfection about
Christmas.
Some of the amateurs of oysters think they are
not best when quite fresh from the sea; the flavour
they have is too brackish and harsh, which is
much ameliorated by giving them a feed, by
covering them with clean water, with a pint of
salt to about two gallons ; (nothing else, no oat-
meal, nor any other trumpery ;) this will cleanse
them from the mud and sand, &c. of the bed ;
after they have lain in it twelve hours, change it
for fresh salt and water, and in twelve hours more$
they will be in prime order for the mouth, and
remain so two or three days : at the time of high
water, you may see them open their shells,
in expectation of receiving their usual food. This
process of ieeding oysters, is only employed
when a great many come up together in their dirt,
&c. The real Colchester, or Pyfleet barrelled
oysters, that are packed at the beds, are bet-
ter without being put in water ; they are care-
fully and tightly packed, and must not be dis-
turbed till wanted for table : these, in moderate
weather, will keep good for a week, or ten days.
Obs. Nothing appears to common people
more indifferent than the manner of opening oys-
ters, or the time of eating them after they are
* Those oysters are thus called which are born as well as
bred in this country, and are mostly spit in the Burnham and
Mersey rivers, and do not come to their finest condition till
they are near four years old.
FISH.
opened; nothing, however, is more important, in the
enlightened eyes of the experienced oyster eater.
Those who wish to enjoy this delicious restora-
tive in its utmost perfection, must eat it the
moment it is opened, with its own gravy in (he
under shell: if not eaten while absolutely alive,
its flavour and spirit is lost. The true lover of an
oyster will have more regard for the feelings of his
little favourite, than to abandon it to, the mercy of
a bungling operator, but will always open it him-
self, and contrive to detach the fish from the shell
so dexterously, that the oyster is hardly conscious
lie has been ejected from his lodging, till he feels
the teeth of the gourmand tickling him to death.
Scolloped Oysters. (No. 182)
Parboil twenty-four oysters in as much water as
will just cover them, strain the liquor, and add to
it about an ounce of fresh butter, a tablespoonfui
of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoon-
ful of ground black pepper, a roll of the rind of a
lemon, and a little grated nutmeg.
Beard and wash the oysters, and let them stew
slowly for a few minutes in the above liquor, put
them into scallop shells, with a little of the liquor
in each, and cover them with some fine bread
crumbs, put little bits of butter on the top, and
bake and brown them in a Dutch oven.
Stewed Oysters. (No. 182.)*
Large oysters will do for stewing, and by some
are preferred for this purpose ; but we rather love
FISH.
the plump, juicy, and delicious Milton; sfew'a
couple of dozen of these, and put them into a
saucepan with their own liquor. When they are
coming to a boil, take them up and strain the
liquor through a tammis sieve, and lay <he oysters
on a cloth to dry. Put a bit of butter, as big as an
egg, into a stcwpan ; when it is melted, put to it
as much flour as will dry it up, the liquor of the
oysters, and three tablespeonsful of boiling water,
one of mushroom or walnut catsup, and one of
white wine, a b'jidf of bruised mace, a little white
pepper and salt ; let it boil up for a couple of
minutes, then put in the oysters, and let them get
warm ; (they must not be boiled, or they will
become hard :) line the bottom and sides of a hash
dish with bread sippets, and pour your oysters
and sauce into it.
For the following observations on fish, the
public are indebted to Mr. WILLIAM TUCKER,
Fishmonger, Great Russel Street, Bloomshury.
" SIR, " Oct. 18,1816."
" In speaking of the different seasons of fish, I
do not mean to say that you cannot get good or
bad, except at the times I have mentioned, as
they frequently will vary ; for instance, there may
be a o-ood cod in the midst of summer, or a good
turbot in the midst of winters; and I have only
pointed out the time when they are generally so.
66 There is no article so fluctuating in price as
fish, the London market being supplied princi-
pally by water carriage, from -all parts of the coast,
the wind cannot be fair for all ; the consequence
then is, frequently a great abundance of some
sorts, and none, or little, of many others. A
FISH.
great many persons send their servants to market
to get, perhaps, a turbot, or cod's head and shoul-
ders ; it very likely happens those articles are
scarce and extravagant : the servants have no
other order, or perhaps will not take the trouble
to get other orders, but order a turbot at 30y.
or 40s., whereas they might have as good a dish
of any other sort for half the money. In this
case the tradesman is frequently condemned as
an extravagant fellow, when, perhaps, he gets
nothing by selling it. I am therefore convinced
Jtliat it is people's own fault that they have fish
at such an extravagant price: if masters or mis-
tresses were to go to market themselves, if one
sort was dear, they could have another; or, if not
convenient to go themselves, desire their fish-
monger to send them a handsome dish, the most
seasonable and reasonable, for so many per-
sons ; and if that tradesman did not use thera
well, he is not deserving of their custom."
" Cod generally comes into good season fa
October, when, if the weather is cold, it eats as
fine as at any time in the year : towards the latter
nd of January, and February, and part of March,
they are mostly poor, but the latter end of March,
April, and May, they arc generally particularly
fine, having shot their spawn, they come in fine
order, The Dodger-Bank cod are the most
esteemed, as they generally cut in large fine
flakes ; the north country cod, that is caught off the
Orkney Isles, are generally very stringy, or what
is commonly called woolley, and sell at a very
FISH.
inferior price, but are caught in much greater
abundance than the Dogger cod. The cod are all
caught with hook, and brought alive in well boats
to the London markets. The cod cured on the
Dogger Bank is remarkably fine, and seldom
cured above two or three weeks before brought
to market ; the barrel cod is commonly cured on
the coast of Scotland and Yorkshire. There is a
great deal of inferior cured salt fish brought f'om
Newfoundland and Ireland. The skull of a
Dogger Bank cod is a famous dish for an epicure,
it being the richest and most luscious part of the
fish ; one of them is a good dish for three or four
persons, and eats well either baked or boiled : the
tail of a cod should always be cut in fillets or
-slices, and fried, which makes a good dish, and
generally to be bought at a very reasonable rate;
if boiled, it is always soft and watery. The skull
and tail of a cod makes an excellent Scotch dish,
stewed and served up together, with anchovies, or
oyster sauce, with the liquor it is boiled in, in
the tureen.
" LitJg is brought to the London market in the
same manner as cod, but is very inferior to it
either fresh or salt.
u Turbols. The finest turbots that are brought to
the London market, are caught offthe Dutch coast,
or German ocean, and are brought in well boats
alive. The commencement of the season is gene-
rally about March and April, and continues all
the summer season. Turbots, like other fish,
do not spawn all at the same time; therefore
there is always good and bad nearly all the year
round. For this year or two past, there has been
an immense quantity brought to London, from all
parts, and of all qualities ; a great many from a
FISH.
new fishery off Hartlepool, which are a very
handsome looking turbot, but by no means equal
to what are caught off the Dutch coast. A great
many excellent turbots are caught off Dover and
Dungeness; and a large quantity brought from
Scotland, packed in ice, which are of a very
inferior quality, and are generally to be bought
for about one fourth the price of good turbots.
" Brills are generally caught at the same place
as turbots, and are generally of the same quality as
the turbot, from the different parts. Some brills
are very good, but not equal to turbot.
Salmon. The earliest that comes in season to
the London market, is brought from the Severn,
and begins to come into season the beginning of
November, but very few so early, perhaps not
above one in fifty, as many of them will not shoot
their spawn till January, or after, and then con-
tinue in season till October, when they begin to
get very thin and poor. The principal supply of
salmon is from different parts of Scotland, packed
in ice, and brought by water : if the vessels have
a fair wind, they will be in London in three days ;
but it frequently happens they are at sea perhaps
a fortnight, when the greater part of the fish is
perished, some tolerable good, and some of all
qualities, and has, for a year or two past, sold
as low as two pence per pound, and up to as much
as eighteen pence per pound at the same time,
owing to its different degrees of goodness.
" Salmon Gwilts y or Salmon Peel^ are the small
salmon which come from about 5 or 6 pounds
to ten pounds, are very good fibh, and make
handsome dishes of fish, and sent to table crooked
in the form of an S.
-FISH.
" -Berwick 'Trout are a distinct fish from the
o-wilts, and are caught in (he River Tweed, and
t? 7 c^ _ , -
dressed in the same manner as the gvvilt.
" Cahered Salmon is the salmon caught in the
Thames, and cut into slices alive; and some few
salmon are brought from Oxford to London alive,
and cut. A few slices makes a handsome, genteel
dish, but is generally very expensive.
" Mackerel generally make their appearance off
(lie Land's End about the beginning of April, and
as. the weather gets warm they gradually come
round the coast, "and generally arrive off Brighton
about May, and continue for some months, until
they begin to shoot their spawn, when for above
two months they are missing, until about Michael-
mas, when there is a few very fat small mackarel of
excellent flavour at this time make their appear-
ance again.
Dutch Plaice, when in season, and what are
caught off the Dutch coast, are good fish either
fried or boiled : they are frequently condemned
as a bad fish, because they do not eat so firm as a
tnrbot or brills, which is not their nature; but
they are very rich nutritious fish, more so than
turbot ; but what are caught on our own coast
are nothing equal to the others.
" Sofas are a fish that are generally to be pro-
cured good from some part of the coast, as some
are going 1 out of season, and some coming in,
both at the same time ; a great many are brought
in well-boats, alive, that are caught off Dover,
and Folkstone, and some are brought from the
same places by land carriage. The soles that are
caught on that part of the coast are rather small,
but exceeding good fish. The finest soles that
FISH.
arc caught any where, are those thai are off Ply-
mouth, near the Eddislpne, and all tjic way up
the Channel, and to Torbiiy ; it being very deep
water, arid the ground a fine gravelly bottom,
they feed very solid, and are caught frequently
very large, eight or ten pounds per pair: they
are generally brought by water to Portsmouth,
and thence by land; but the greatest quantity
are caught off Yarmouth and the Knole, and a
great many are caught off the Forelands.
" Red MuVets are a very delicious fish, cora-
morfly called the sea woodcock, they being dres-
sed with their entrails in, there being no gut, only
like a string, which is like marrow itself; they
only require scraping; washed tenderly with a
cloth, and broiled in a buttered paper: they are
so rich, they require scarcely any sauce. The
best are caught off Plymouth, and all the way up
the channel to Portland, and some few off Brigh-
ton.
" Gray Mullet s, when in season, are very rich,
good fish, but not equal to the red : those gene-
rally keep in the season near the fresh water*
The b( st way of dressing those, is by baking them
in a pye, or roasting, or baking them, with a
pudding in their belly, and put in a tureen with
some good gravy, and they cat very fine.
" John Doreys are a very good fish, cutting very
white and firm, equal to a tnrbot in firmness, but
not in richness : those caught, off Plymouth and.
Torbay are the best. Lobster is requisite for!
sauce.
u Whitings are a very delicate fish, and require
to be eaten very fresh ; those caught off' Dover and
FISH,
Foikstone are the best: some arc br. .1 alive,
a:,/, v- ' e ': v l..::d carri ige.
'* Skate is a very cood fish w hen in :
t no fish 5 en it is otherwise : those per-
sons that like it rinii and dry. should have it
crimped : bir ' :' ' tTC
it - - . and eat r. the sc : ... y.
;'::._' . ree or four days old it is
better: it cannot be kepi too Ion.:, if perfectly
sv^eer. Skate, if you::.:. ea;s very line, crimped
and fried.
//:.'." ' - ?.re a firm, good tish ; they aredres-
^ed many different ways Lar^e haddocks boiled,
Haddocks sailed a day or two,
and ea*en with tgg * . are a very ocd article.
Haddocks cut in fillets, and fried, cat very fine.
Or :: small, verv well broiled, or baked v.-uh
a ] _ in their belly, and some good erravy.
I N . - : -i is esteem etl a L" n od fish by
manv ; but, I t . only b-:c i'jse it d >-> net
* p
conie plenrifol enough to be common ; and to the
eater of rjsh it makes a ch _ : aa many gentle-
men cannot dir.e \\iil: . it makes a rarietv,
3
or becomes useful, v '. le want to give a
course offish entirely : a piece stev>ed with some
ood gravr Is the best wciv of dressing' : or cut in
to v ^ '
:?l:c ?. and fried, as vou would a veal cutlet, eats
-y well. v .-_:-. -a pickled, makes a handsome
winter di?h for I cond course.
* v are all wed to be caught in the
Thames on the fir^t of November, and con-
11 May. The Thames smelts are the
. .- :t. for two reasons : t! :e fresh-
/ i/
, and richer, than ary other you can g
FISH.
they catch (hern much more plentiful and larger
in Lancashire and Norfolk, but not so good : a
great many are brought to town from Norfolk,
but barely come good, as they are a lish should
always be eaten fresh; indeed all river fish should
be eaten fresh, except salmon, -uhich, link
crimpt, eats better the second or third day : but
all 'ihames fish particularly should be eaten
very fresh ; no fish eats so bad kept.
u Lobsters are, in general, lobe procured at all
times : but the best time is from .April to August.
After that time they begin to spawn, and seldom
open solid. Crabs nearly the same. Prawns are
best from March to August. Crayfish are s:ene-
rally to be procured ^ocd at all times ; the sea
crayfish are very indifferent fish, and of bad di-
gestion ; the only thing they are good for, is to
make currie. Lobsters are dressed in many ways
for dishes ; as lobster sali'd, or Italian sall'd, or
plain, or currie.
" Crab picked out of the shell, and divided iu
three parts, and decorated with a little lobster
spawn, makes a very handsome dish for the se-
cond course, or a supper dish : some cooks and
fishmongers dress them very handsome.
" Pipers are a very good fish ; the best that are
caught are in the mid channel, from off Torbay
to Plymouth ; they are a very handsome fish
when first caught, having many beautiful colours,
but soon fade : they eat a great deal like a firm.
fine cod : eat good with a pudding in their bellies,
baked or roasted, and some good gravy ; or plain,
boiled as you would a haddock.
fc; Gun efts. There are many different sorts
of this fish : the red gurnett is a good deal like
G
FISH.
a piper ; it is dressed the same as a piper or had-
dock.
a Eels are a good, and frequently very useful
fish, as you can generally get them when you can-
not get other fish, and make a good dish, either
stewed or spitchcocked.
" Brawn is sold by fishmongers, and is a good
thing for side dishes, or the second course : the
brawn makers generally commence making in No-
vember, and will continue in season till March."
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
IT is hardly necessary to give any more cautions
to the cook to pay continual attention to the con-
dition of her stewpans, which should be examin-
ed every time they are used ; so many mischiefs
arise from their getting out of repair : if they are
not kept nicely tinned, all your good work will be
in vain ; the broths and soups will look green and
dirty, and taste bitter and poisonous, and will be
spoiled both for the eye and palate, and your
credit will be lost ; and as the health, and even
life of the family depends upon this, the cook may
be sure her employers had rather pay the tin-
man's bill than the doctor's ; therefore, attention
to this cannot fail to engage the regard of the mis-
tress, between whom and the cook, it will be my
utmost endeavour throughout this book to pro-
mote perfect harmony.
If the servant has the misfortune to scorch or
blister the tinning of her saucepan, which will
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
happen sometimes to the most careful cook, I ad-
vise her, by all means, immediately to acquaint
her employers, who will thank her for so candidly
mentioning the accident ; and only censure her if
she conceals it. Make it a rule without an excep-
tion, never to use any sieves or tammy cloths,
spoons or ladles, till they are well cleaned, and
thoroughly dried, nor any stewpans &c., without
first washing them out with boiling water, and
rubbing them well with a dry cloth and a little
bran, to clean them from every kind of grease and
sand, &c. that may have been left in them, or any
bad smell they may have got since they were last
used : never neglect this. Though we do not
suppose our cook such a naughty slut, as to think
of putting by her broth pots, &c., till she has
thoroughly cleaned * them ; wash them immedi-
* Stewpans and soup-pots with round bottoms, such as
saucepans are made with, will wear twice as long, and are
cleaned with half the trouble, as those whose sides are sol-
dered to the b,ottoni ; for the sand and grease, &c. will get
into the joined part, and it is a difficulty, almost amounting
to an impossibility, to dislodge the dirt completely. Take
care also, that the lids fit as close as possible, that the
broth, soup, &c., that you are making, may not waste by
evaporation. They are good for nothing, unless they fit
tight enough to keep the steam in, and the smoke out.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
ately, and be sure they are quite dry before they
are put by; and keep them in a dry place, for
damp will rust and destroy them very soon : at-
tend to this the first moment you can spare after
the dinner is sent up ; and never put by any soup,
gravy, c., in a metal utensil ; stone or earthen
vessels should be used for this purpose. Cultivate
regular habits of cleanliness, &c., in all your busi-
ness, which you will then get through easily and
comfortably. I do not mean that restless spirit of
" the tidy one," who is always frisking about in a
whirlpool of bustle and confusion ; and is always
dirty, under pretence of being always cleaning.
Broths differ from soups, as they are inferior in
strength, and composed with fewer ingredients;
they are more easy to make, and lead to the art of
making gravies, soups, and sauces.
Lean, juicy beef, mutton, or veal, form the basis
of these : you must procure those pieces which
afford the most and richest succulence, and as
fresh killed as possible*". Stale meat will make
your broth thick and bad tasted, and fat meat is
* In general, it has been considered the best economy to
use the cheapest and most inferior meats for soup, &c., and
to boil it down to rags. I think this a false frugality ; and
advise you to buy good pieces of meat, and only stew them
till they are done enough to eat.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
not only wasted, but occasions the broth very soon
to turn sour : this only applies to those broths
which are required to be perfectly clean : we shall
show hereafter, that fat and drippings may be so
combined with vegetable mucilage, as to afford,
at the small cost of lOd. per gallon, a very nourish-
ing, palatable, and balsamic soup.
The following broth herbs, soup roots, and sea*
sonings, Scotch barley, pearl barley, flour, bread
raspings, oatmeal, peas, beans, rice, vermicelli,
maccaroni, potatoe mucilage, mushrooms, cham-
pignons, parsnips, carrots, beet roots, turnips, gar-
lick, shallots, onions *, cucumber, celery, celery
seedt, parsley, leeks, commou thyme, lemon-
thyme, orange-thyrne, knotted marjoram, sage,
mint, winter savoury, sweet basil bay leaves, tar*
ragon, chervit, burnet, allspice, cinnamon, ginger,
* All cooks agree in this opinion,
No savoury dish without an onion.
Sliced onions fried quite brown, with some butter and flour,
are excellent to heighten the colour and flavour of brown
sauces and soups.
t The concentration of flavour in celery seed is such, that-
half a drachm of it will impregnate a gallon of soup with more
relish than two or three heads of the fresh vegetable. This
valuable acquisition to the soup-pot deserves to be more uni-
versally known.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
nutmeg, clove, mace, black pepper, white pepper,
lemon-peel, lemon-juice *, Seville orange juicet,
and salt, used separately, or combined in fifty
different proportions, will make an endless va-
riety J of excellent broths and soups, quite as
agreeable to the appetite, and incalculably more
advantageous to the stomach, than consuming
pheasants and partridges, and the long list of
piquante, inflammatory, rare and costly articles,
recommended in some former books on this
subject, whose elaborately compounded soups are
like their made dishes ; in which, though variety
is aimed at, every thing has the same tastes, and
nothing its own. The great fault of our English
soups, seems to be the employment of an excess of
spices, and too small a proportion of roots and
herbs.
To the ingredients I have enumerated, many
* If you have not orange or lemon juice, a little French
wine vinegar is the best substitute for it.
t The juice of the Seville orange is to be preferred to lemon-
juice, the flavour is finer, and the acid milder.
J The erudite editor of the " Almanack des Gourmands"
vol. ii. p. 30, tells us, that ten folio volumes would not
contain the receipts of all the soups that have been invented
in that grand school of good eating, the Parisian kitchen.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
culinary scribes indiscriminately cram into almost
every dish, anchovies*, garlicki, bay leaves,
and that hot, fiery spice, Cayenne pepper. We
leave those who love these things, to use them as
they like ; their flavour can be very extempora-
neously produced by spirit of Cayenne, garlick
vinegar, and essence of anchovy J. We again
caution the cook always to avoid these predomi-
nant flavours, which, however agreeable they may
be to some, are extremely disagreeable to others.
Truffles and morels are also set down as a part
of most receipts. These have a very rich, high
flavour, and are delicious additions to some dishes,
or sent up as a stew by themselves, when they are
'' Soy, cavice-coratch, anchovies, curry powder, browning,
catsup, pickle liquor, beer, and wine, are occasionally very
convenient auxiliaries to soups, &c. : the proportion of wine
should not exceed a large wineglassful to a quart of soup,
though much larger quantities are ordered, in many books:
this is as much as can be admitted, without the vinous flavour
becoming remarkably predominant.
f -Many a good dish is spoiled, by the cook not knowing
the proper use of this, which is to give a flavour, and not to
be predominant to the other ingredients : a morsel mashed
with the point of a knife, and stired in, is enough.
} For preparing these, you will find the best receipts in the
chapter of sauces, &c.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AXD SOUPS.
frcsli and fine ; but in this state they are not served
up half a dozen times in a year at the first noble-
man's table in the kingdom : when they are dried,
they generally lose their flavour, and serve only
to soak up good gravy, from which they take
more taste than they give. The great art of com-
posing a rich soup is, so to proportion the several
ingredients one to another, that no particular taste
be stronger than the rest ; but to produce such a
fine, harmonious, and delicious relish, that the
whole is delightful: this requires a very judi-
cious combination of the materials, and constitutes
the " chef-tfcRWore" of culinary science.
In the first place, take care that the roots and
herbs be perfectly well cleaned, and proportion
the water not only to the quantity of meat *, and
other ingredients, but to the sort of fire you intend
to use. If you have a brisk fire, a great deal more
water must be put in than you intend to have
broth ; but if it be to stew gently, then little more
water need be put in at first than is expected at
the end ; for when the saucepan is covered close,
and the fire gentle, very little is wasted. In most
cases, this gentle way of stewing is incomparably
* Generally a pound of meat to a quart of water, for
soups; and double that quantity for gravies.
G5
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AXD SOUPS.
the best, and both the meat and the soup eat the
better for it.
Always dish up your soups the last thing. If
it be gravy soup, it will skin over if you let it
stand; if it be peas-soup, it often settles, and the
top looks thin.
By quick and strong boiling, not only all the
volatile and finest parts of the ingredients are
evaporated, and fly off with the steam, but the
coarser parts are rendered soluble ; so you lose
the good, and get the bad. The slower they boil
the better. Soups will generally take from three
to six hours.
If possible, always prepare your broths and
soups the evening before you want them. This will
give you more time to attend to the rest of your din-
ner next day; and when the soup is cold, fat may
be much more easily and completely removed from
the surface of it : when you decant it, take care
not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the ves-
sel, which are so fine, they will escape through your
tammis, or sieve, and are only to be got rid of in
this manner. The full flavour of the ingredients
can only be extracted by very long and slow sim-
mering; during which, take care to prevent the
evaporation of the steam, by covering your pot
closely : perhaps the best stewpots are the cast
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AXD SOUPS.
iron digesters*, made by Jackson and Moser, in
Greek Street, Soho : in these, all the nutritive qua-
lities of the meat are preserved, the steam being
prevented escaping by the lids fitting exactly
into a screw grove.
Bread raspings, bread crumbs t, biscuit pow-
der, isinglass, potatoe mucilage, fat skimmings
and flour, or flour and butter, or flour and water
rubbed well together, are the materials commonly
used J to thicken , and give a body to our soups.
To their very rich gravies, &c., the French add
the breasts of partridges and fowls, beaten to a pulp
in a marble mortar, a piece of the beef you have
* The water in the digester is never made to boil, so there
is no exhalation of volatile parts; and although the solution
is made with great success, and may be to any degree requir-
ed, yet if that is not carried very far, the meat may be ren-
dered very tender, while it retains its most sapid parts, and
still remain eatable, and useful in the family.
f To thicken with bread : take the crumb of a French
roll, boil it in a little of the soup, beat it in a mortar, and rub
it through a sieve, or coarse cloth, pour this into your soup,
and give it a boil up afterwards.
I In the proportion of a teacupful to a quart of soup.
Whatever materials are used for this purpose, must be
gradually mixed with the soup, till they are thoroughly incor-
porated with it j if it is at all lumpy, pass it through a fine
hair sieve.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AXD SOUPS.
boiled to make your broth or gravy, pounded in
the like manner, with a bit of butter and flour,
and gradually well incorporated with the gravy or
soup, will be found an excellent substitute for
these more expensive articles. Meat from which
broth has been made, and all the juice has been
extracted, is then excellently well prepared for
frothing, and quite as good as that which has
been baked till it is dry*, and pounded, &c.,
seasoned in the usual manner, will be an elegant
and savoury luncheon or supper dish, and ex-
tremely useful, as we have before observed, to
thicken soups, sauces, &c., and costs nothing but
the trouble of preparing it, which is very little,
and you get a delicious relish for sandwiches, &c. ?
of what heretofore has been by the poorest house-
keeper considered the perquisite of the cat.
It is a good plan always to keep some spare
broth, lest your soup liquor waste in boiling, and
get too thick. If it is too thin, or too weak, take
off the cover of your soup-pot, and let it boil till
some of the watery part of it has evaporated, or
add some of the thickening materials we have be-
o
fore mentioned ; and always have at hand some
* If the gravy is not completely drained from it, the article
potted will turn sour in a couple of days.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
browning. This simple preparation is much
better than any of the compounds bearing that
narne> as it merely colours your sauce or soup,
without interfering with its flavour. When
O
soups and gravies are kept from day to day,
in hot weather, they should be warmed up
every day, and put into fresh scalded tureens,
or pans ; in temperate weather, every other
day may be enough. We hope enough has now
been said, to put the common cook into possession
of the whole arcana of soupmaking, without much
trouble to herself, or expense to her employers ;
and that it will not be said, in future, that an En-
glishman only knows how to make soup in his sto-
mach, by swilling down a large quantity of ale,
or porter, to quench the thirst occasioned by the
meat he eats: like the ingenious foreigners he
mav now make his soup in a pot, and thus save
his principal viscera a great deal of trouble.
* # * In the following Receipts zee have directed the spices and
flavouring to be added at the usual time; but it zcould
greatly improve the soups, if the spices, fyc., as well as wine,
which is used to Jin ish them, were not put in above ten or
fifteen minutes before they are done, especially if the spices
are pounded; whole spice may have twenty or thirty minutes.
A continued heat soon dissipates the spirit of wine, and eva-
porates the aroma andjlavour of the spices and herbs-
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
Since writing the above, the following corrobo-
ration of my opinion was given me by that scien-
tific culinary amateur, Apicius Ccelius,junr.
" The great fault of ancient and of modern cook-
ery has consisted in the employment of the vari-
ous articles of seasoning or condiment, which, on
the application of heat, have been evaporated,
and, from the volatization of their more subtle
parts, the true flavour of these substances have
been destroyed. Wine, spices, anchovy, and
many ingredients, when stewed for a considerable
time, lose the best part of their flavour."
"A. C.junr."
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
Beef Broth. (No. 185.)*
WASH a shin of beef very clean, crack the bone
in two or three places, add thereto any trimmings
you have of meat, game, or poultry, and put
them into two gallons of cold water, in an open
pot, on a quick fire ; watch it, and the moment it
begins to simmer, skim it carefully, or you will
lose the beauty of your broth, which must be
perfectly clear and limpid ; on this depends
the goodness of the soups, sauces, and gravies, of
which it is the basis : then add a quart of cold
water, to make more scum rise, and skim it again,
and when the scum has quite done rising, put in one
moderate-sized carrot, a head of celery, two turnips,
two onions, in one of which stick three cloves, and
a teaspoonful of salt : cover it close, and set it by
the side of the fire, and let it boil very gently for
four or five hours, according to the weight of
your meat : when it is reduced to about six
quarts, strain it through a silk or tammis sieve :
skim t it carefully, and set it in the coldest place
you have. The quicker it cools the better.
* In culinary technicals, is first stock,
f If the grease is left on the top, it keeps the broth from
cooling, and it often turns sour.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
. This is the universal foundation for all
sorts o j soups and sauces, brown or white. I
have ordered it to stew no longer than the meat is
thoroughly done to eat, and you obtain excellent
broth, without depriving- tlie meat of its nutritions
succulence : to boil it to rags, as is the common
practice, will not enrich your broths, but only
make them thick and grouty, and destroy the
meat, which when thus gently stewed for only
four or five hours, will afford a relishing and
wholesome meal for half a dozen people. If it is
not to be eaten till cold, cut the meat from the
bones, and put it into a mould, and as it grows
cold it will take a shape, and will make a very
nice dish for luncheon or supper.
Beef Gravy. (No. 186.)
Cover the bottom of a stewpan, that is well
tinned and quite clean, with half a pound of ham or
lean bacon cut into slices, a shin of beef, or six
pounds of the sticking-piece cut into half pound
pieces, with a carrot, an onion with two cloves
stuck in it, and a head of celery; put a pint of
broth or water to it, cover it close, and set it
over a moderate fire till the water is reduced to
as little as will just save the ingredients from burn-
ing ; then put in four quarts of boiling water* ;
when it boils up, skirn it carefully, and wipe off
with a clean cloth what sticks round the edge
* A great deal of care is to be taken to watch the time of
putting in the water, for if it is poured in too soon, the gravy
will not have its true flavour and colour, and if let alone till
the meat sticks too much to the pan, it will get a burnt taste.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
and inside of the stewpan, that your gravy may
be delicately clean and clear. Set it by the side
of a fire where it will stew very gently for
four hours : if it has not boiled too last, there
should be about three quarts of gravy ; strain
through a silk or tammis sieve; take very particu-
lar care to skim it well, and set it in a coid place *.
' Beef Broth, for Glaze. (No, 187.)
Put a large quantity of beef trimmings, or lean
beef, into a broth-kettle ; cover them with cold
water, and set it over a quick fire, till it boils ;
skim it well, and add a quart of cold water, to
throw up the scum ; skim it again, and set it to
simmer gently four or five hours, then strain it
through a napkin that has been wetted and wrung,
or through a silk sieve, or tammis, into a clean
stone or china pan, and let it remain till rtext day;
take off the fat, and pour the broth gently (so as
to leave the settling at the bottom of the pan)
into a clean stewpan, set it over a very clear hot
stove, and let- it boil away as quick as possible,
till it is reduced to a strong gluet : you must take
* Called in some cookery books, second stock.
f The French use three different names to signify much the
same tiling; viz. consomme, coulis, and restaurant. The
first is the weakest and clearest, and is often made with a
little flour, butter, and broth, and, used to give thickness to
sauces and soups : the second is stronger, of meat, and is for
the purpose of adding goodness and strength to whatever it
is mixed with ; the last is for the same purpose, and made as
rich in taste and flavour, as meat, game, poultry, ami proper
seasoning can make it.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
great care it does not burn. It should be of a fine
yellow colour, and transparent : pour it into little
jars, and keep it in a cool, but dry place.
Obs. This is an indispensable preparation,
giving a body to your soups, sauces, and ragouts,
or to glaze your meat with. When reduced to
this state, it will keep for several months. If it is
for present use, it need not be boiled away so much,
and is then called consomme, or essence of meat.
Strong Savoury Beef Gravy. (No. 188.)
Take a stewpan that will hold four quarts, lay
a slice or two of bacon (about a quarter of an inch
thick) at the bottom, a couple of ounces of ham,
(undressed if you have it,) and two pounds of
beef, a carrot, a large onion, with four cloves
stuck in it, (that the end of the cloves may not tear
the tammis when the sauce is strained,) one head
of celery, a bundle of parsley, lemon-thyme, mar-
joram, and savoury, about as big round as your
little finger when tied close, a few leaves of sweet
basil, (one bay leaf if you like it,) a piece of lemon-
peel, and a dozen corns of allspice : pour on this
half a pint of water, cover it close, and let it sim-
mer gently on a slow fire for half an hour, in which
time it will be almost dry ; watch it very carefully,
and let it catch a nice brown colour, turn your meat,
let it brown on the other side, then add two
quarts of boiling water*, and boil very gently for
an hour and a half. It is now rich gravy : to
convert it into
* The general rule is to put in as many quarts of water as
there are pounds of meat.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
Beef Cull "is , or rich and thickened Gravy >
(No. 189.)
Take a tablespoonful of the thickening-, No.
257, of sauces, end put it into a basin, with a
ladleful of the gravy ; stir it quick ; then add the
rest by degrees, till it is all well mixed, then pour
it back into the stewpan, where the meat, &c. is ;
see the sauce is of a proper thickness, and leave
it by the side of the fire to simmer for half an
liour, that the thickening may thoroughly incor-
porate with the gravy, the stewpan being only
half covered, stirring it every now and then ;
a sort of scum will gather on the top, which it is
best not to take off till you are ready to strain it
through a tammis *. Take care it is neither too
pale nor too dark a colour ; if it is not thick
enough, put it into a clean stewpan; and if you
wish it stronger, let it stew longer, till it is re-
duced to the desired thickness : if it is too thick,
you can easily thin it with a spoonful or two of
warm broth, or water. When your sauce is done,
stir it in the basin you put it into once or twice,
while it is cooling.
Family Soup. (No. 190.)
Put on eight or ten pounds of brisket of beef in a
* A tammis is a worsted cloth, sold at the oil shops, made
on purpose tor straining sauces ; the best way of using it is
for two people to twist it contrary ways : this is a much bet-
ter way of straining sauce than through a sieve, and refines it
much more completely.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
gallon of water ; let (his come very gently lo a
simmer, bordering on boiling ; skim it carefully;
when it has simmered in the gentlest manner for
four or five hours, according to the size of the
meat, put in some carrots and turnips cut into
small shapes, and two heads of celery cut small ;
stew about an hour and a half longer, and the soup
is ready to be served up.
* # * Some are fond of small suet dumplings, as big as nnt-
?ncgs, sent up in the tureen with the soup.
Obs. This will be found a most excellent family
soup, nourishing, and delicious to most palates.
If the meat be simmered for three hours the even-
ing before the soup is wanted, and suffered to
stand till it is cold, much fat* may be removed
from the surface of the soup, is extremely delicate,
and far superior for all the purposes thafdrippings
are applied to. The beef will be a most excellent
and tender bouilli ; and if some of the gravy be
thickened, see Receipt No. 257, and some minced
ghirkins, and capers, added to it, and poured
into the dish, and over the meat, it will make
it still more relishing ; carrots arid turnips cut, as
for harricot mutton, may be added.
Broth. (No.
A knuckle of veal is best, and a quarter of a
pound of undressed ham ; manage these as direct-
ed in the receipt for beef broth, only take care
* See " VArt de Cuisinier," par A. Beauvillier, Paris, 1814,
page 68. " I have learned by experience, that of all the fats
that are. used for frying, that which is taken from the surface
of the broth and stock-pot is by far the best."
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
not to let it catch any colour, as this and the fol-
lowing and richer preparation of veal, are chiefly
used for white soups, sauces, &c.
Veal Gravy. (No. 192.)
About four pounds of the nut of the leg of veal,
cut into half pound slices, with a quarter of a
pound of ham in small dice, prepared like the
beef gravy, but a great deal of care must be taken
to watch the time of putting in the water ; if it is
poured in too soon, the gravy will not have its true
flavour, and if it be let alone till the meat sticks
too much to the pan, it will catch too much
colour.
Knuckle of Veal Soup. (No. 193.)
A knuckle of veal of nine pounds weight,
will -make two tureens of excellent soup, and is
thus easily prepared : cut a pound of bacon into
slices about half an inch thick, lay it at the bottom,
of a soup kettle, or deep stewpan, on this the
knuckle of veal, having first chopped the bone in
two or three places, furnish it with a carrot, a
turnip, a head of celery, a large onion, with two
or three cloves stuck in it, a dozen corns of black,
and the same of Jamaica pepper, and a good bun-
dle of lemon-thyme, winter savoury, and parsley.
Cover the meat with cold water, set it over a
quick fire till it boils, and you have skimmed it
well, then remove your soup-kettle to the side of
the fire, where it will stew very gently for four
hours, till it is quite tender, then take out the
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
bacon and veal, and set it by till it is cold, and
strain the soup, and set it by in a cool place till
you want it, when you must take off the fat you
will find on the surface of your liquor, and decant
it (keeping back the settlings at the bottom,) into
a clean stewpan ; put three tablespoonsful of the
fat you have taken off the soup, into a small stew-
pan, and mix it with three tablespoonsful of flour,
pour a ladleful of soup to it, and mix it with the
rest by degrees, and boil it up till it is smooth.
Cut the meat and gristle of the knuckle, and the
bacon into mouthfuls, and put them into the soup,
and let them get warm.
Obs. You may make this more savoury
by adding catsup, or thyme, &c. Shin of beef
may be dressed the same way.
Mutton Broth. (No. 194.)
Take two pounds of scrag of mutton, let it lay
in some cold water for an hour, to take the blood
out, then put it in a saucepan, with three quarts
of water, a teaspoonful of salt, and three of the
best grits, a large onion, some thyme and knotted
marjoram ; then set it on a slow fire, and mind
you skim it well : when you have taken all the
scum off, then put in three turnips, and let it
simmer for a couple of hours, and strain through
a clean and sweet sieve.
Obs. You may thicken broth, by boiling with
it a little oatmeal, rice, Scotch or pearl barley.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
Mock Mutton Broth, without Meat, in five
minutes. (No. 195.)
Boil two teaspoonsful of mushroom catsup in
three quarters of a pint of very thin gruel. Season
with a little salt.
The, Queens morning Broth, (No. 196.)
Sir Kenelrn Digby, in his closet of cookery,
page 150, London, 1669, informs us was made
in the following manner :
A hen, a handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme,
three of spearmint, a little balm, half a great
onion, a little pepper and salt, and a clove, as
much water as will cover them ; and this boiled
to less than a pint, for one good porrengerful.
Hodge Podge. (No. 197.)
Take a pound of rump steaks, the same quan-
tity of veal cutlets and mutton chops, and an ox-
heel, cut them into pieces about an inch square,
put the whole into a soup-pot, with an ounce of
butter, let it stew softly, and turn it about, that it
may get browned all over, then pour in five pints
of water, with two ounces of barley, an onion, a
small bundle of sweet herbs, or three drachms of
soup herb powder. No. 459, enclosed in a bag, three
heads of celery, a couple of turnips pared and cut
in two, a large carrot scraped clean and split, three
blades of bruised mace, two or three cloves, and
half a dozen berries of black pepper -, cover the
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
soup-pot very close, so that no steam can evapo-^
rate : if ihe lid does not fit tight, put a piece- oi
paper over the pot, and then put the lid on ; let it
stew very gently for three hours; take out the
spice, sweet herbs, and soup roots, pour the
rest into a tureen, or soup dish, and season it with
a little salt.
Ox-heel. Jelly. (No. 198.)
The proportion of water to each heel is about
a quart ; keep it simmering gently for three or
four hours, it will make a pint of strong jelly,
which is frequently used to add to mock turtle,
and the calf's feet will do as well.
Jelly Broth of Fragments. (No. 199.)
When you dress a large dinner, you may
make good broth, at very small cost, by taking
care of all the trimmings and parings of the meat,
game, and poultry you are going to use ; wash
them well, and put them into a stewpan, with as
much cold water as will cover them ; set your
stewpan on a hot fire ; when it boils, take off all
the scum, and set it to boil gently : put in two
carrots, two turnips, a large onion, three blades
of pounded mace, and a head of celery ; some
mushroom parings will be a great addition. Let
it boil gently three or four hours, strain it through
a silk sieve into a clean basin, and season it with
salt.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AXD SOUl'S.
Clear Gravy Soup. (No. 500.)
Cut half a pound of lean ham into thin slices
and lay them at the bottom of a large stewpan or
stockpot, with three pounds of lean beef, and a
knuckle of veal ; break the bones and lay them on
the meat, take off the outer skin of two large
onions, stick three cloves in one of them, and cut
the other into slices, and two turnips ; wash and
clean a couple of large carrots, two heads of celery
cut in pieces, and a large blade of mace, pour over
these half a pint of cold water, cover the stewpan
close, and set it over a smart fire, to boil quick,
till the water is reduced, and the meat begins to
stick to the bottom of the stewpan ; turn your meat,
&c., and when there is a nice brown glaze at the
bottom of the stewpan, add four quarts of clean
boiling water : watch it, and when it is coming
to a boil, put in half a pint of cold water, and
take off the scum, put in half a pint more cold
water, skim it again, and continue to do so till no
more scum rises, then set it on one side of the
fire, to boil gently for four hours, strain it through
a clean napkin, or a silk sieve, into a clean China
or stone pan, let it remain till it is cold, and then
remove all the grease : when you decant it, be
careful not to disturb the settlings at the bottom
of the pan : the liquor should be of a fine
amber colour, and as clear as rock water : if it is
not quite so bright as you wish it, put it into a
stewpan, and break two whites and shells of eggs
into a basin, beat them well together, put them
into the soup, set it on a quick fire, and stir it
with a whisk till it boils, then set it on one side of
H
BROTHS, GRAVIES; AND SOUI'S.
the fire to settle for ten minutes, strain it through
a fine napkin into a basin, and it is ready. How-
ever, if your broth is carefully skimmed, it will be
clear enough, without clarifying, which irn-
pairs the flavour of the broth much more than it
improves its appearance.
Obs. This is the basis of almost all the gravy
soups, \v1iicli are called after the various vege-
tables that are put into them. Carrots, turnips,
onions, celery, and a few leaves of chervil, make
what is commonly called u soup sante ;" a pint
of asparagus peas, and a cabbage lettuce, when
they can be had, are an improvement; with rice,
or Scotch barley, with Italian paste, or maccaroni,
or vermicelli, or celery cut into lengths ; it will
be the soup usually called by those names,
or turnips scooped round and fried in butter, or
young onions prepared in the same 'way, will give
you a clear turnip, or onion soup. Whatever
roots and vegetables you use, must be parboiled
first, or they will impregnate the soup with too
strong a flavour. The seasoning for all these
<^ C.7
soups is the same, salt, a little sugar, and a very
little Cayenne popper.
Shin of Beef Soup. (No. 20 1 .)
Put a large shin of beef (after having sawed
the bone into several pieces,) into a stewpan, with
six quarts of water, two teaspoonsful of salt, to
throw up the scum, which must be carefully and
completely removed as soon as it appears ; then
put in three whole onions, three carrots, and a
couple of turnips, cut iu pieces, a teaspoonful
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS,
of whole allspice, and the same of black pepper :
let it stew very gently for five or six hours, and
strain it off into a pan, and let it remain till next
day. When the meat is cold, pick out all the
gristles and sinews from the meat, cut them into
pieces as big as a small walnut, and lay them by to
put into the soup ; the rest of the meat (after the
skins, &c. are picked out,) pound in a mortar,
with a little beaten spice, salt, and a very little
butter, and make it into potted beef. Next morn-
ing take off the fat from the soup, cut three large
onions into slices, and fry them a fine brown (but
do not let them get burned) in some of the fat you
have taken off the surface of your soup liquor ; put
these into a clean stewpan, with your soup, and
the gristles, and let them simmer together for half
an hour, then rub down four tablespoonsful of
flour in ateacupful of soup, add two tablespoons-
ful of mushroom catsup, and one of browning;
give it a boil up for five minutes, and put it
through a sieve. It is ready for table.
Harrico Mutton Soup. (No. 202.)
Divide a large neck of mutton into two parts,
put the scrag end into a stewpan, with four large
turnips, and two carrots, a large onion cut in two,
and a gallon of water ; let it stew gently over a
slow fire for two hours, till the mutton is done
enough, but not till it is boiled to rags: then
bruise two of the turnips, and one of the carrots
through a cullender, and put them into the soup,
to thicken it : cut the other part of the mutton
into chops, fry them just to brown them, put
them to the soup, and stew them very gently till
H 2
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUP'S.
flic chops are tender, but take care not to do them
to rags : cut the other turnips and carrot into
shapes, and put them in the soup just before
you take it up. Send it up in a soup-tureen or
dish.
Mutton Broth, with Cutlets. (No. 203.)
.
Cut six or eight handsome cutlefs off the best
end of a nec % k of mutton, trim off some of the fat,
and \i\y the cutlets on a plate ; take the scrag and
trimmings, and put them into a large sfewpan,
with a gallon of water, one head of celery, and a
small bundle of parsley and thyme ; set it on the
fire, and when it boils skim it well, and let it
simmer very slowly by the side of the fire for two
hours ; strain it into a clean stewpan, or brotli pot,
and have ready turnips, carrots, celery, and button
onions, of each a small teacupful, cut into dice,
or. scooped with a turnip-scoop. Put the cutlets
and the roots into the broth, season it with salt,
..ind let it stew very slowly till they are just tender.
Scotch Barley Broth. (No. 204.)
Chop a shin of beef into four or five pieces, put
it into a soup-pot, with two gallons of cold water,
and set it over a brisk fire till it boils ; skim it well,
and put in a large carrot, a turnip, a head of
celerj', and a small bundle of parsley and thyme;
let it stew gently for three hours, then strain it
into a clean stewpan, or soup-pot, take off the fat,
and put in three quarters of a pound of barley,
well washed and picked, another head of celery,
two turnips, a carrot, and an onion, cut into small
B-liOTIiS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
ti
'dico, and let it boil very gently (ill the barlej r is
soft, which will take about two hours more, then
season it with a teaspoonful of salt.
Obs. Instead of a shin of beef, this is some-
times made with a neck, or breast of mutton, or a
couple of sheep's heads, chopped to pieces.
Scotch Leek Soup. (No. 205.)
You may make this soup 'to most advantage the
day after a joint of-mutton lias been boiled; put
the liquor the mutton has been boiled in, into a
soup-pot, with four large leeks cut into pieces (in
inch long, season with pepper and salt, and let it
boil slowly for an hour, then mix a quarter of a
pound of oatrueal with half a pint of cold water,
til! it is quite smooth ; pour this into the soup, let
it simmer gently half an hour longer, and send
it up hot.
Rice Soup. (No. 206.)
Wash and pick a quarter of a pound of rice,
put it into a quart stew pan with a pint of cold
water, put it on the fire, and when it has boiled
two minutes, put it on a hair sieve to drain ; put
it into a large stewpan, with three quarts of beef
or veal broth ; (see Receipts, No 185 and 191 ;)
let it boil an hour, taking off the scum as it rises,
and season it with a little salt.
i
Potatoe Soup. (No. 207.)
Peel and slice a dozen .potatoes, half a dozen
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
onions, and three or four heads of celery, put
them into a stevvpan, with a quarter of a pound of
butter and a pint of water, let them simmer very
slowly for about an hour, then, add five pints
of warm water; let it stew on, till the vegetables
are all well softened, so as they may be nibbed
through a sieve. Season it with ground black
pepper and salt.
Turnip Soitp. (No. 208.)
Make a gallon of clear veal or beef broth ; if it
is not perfectly clear, it must be clarified*: with
a turnip-scoop, cut eight or ten turnips that are
not spongy, into round balls, about as big as a
nutmeg, do not wash them, but put them into a
stewpan, with two ounces of butter^ and fry them
of a fine gold colour, dry them on a hair sieve, or
a sheet of paper, put them into the soup; set it
by the stove to boil gently for a quarter of an hour,
skim it carefully, and season it with a little salt
and sugar ; cut some crusts of bread into bits
about as big as a nutmeg, dry them on a plate be-
fore the fire, put some into the soup, and send up
the rest on a plate.
Turnip Soup, (No. 209.)
Peel and wash a dozen large turnips, (taking
care they are not spongy,) cut them into thin
slices, and put them into a clean gallon stewpan,
with three quarts of veal broth,, or the liquor that
mutton, or beef, or veal has been boiled in 3 (or
* See Receipt, No.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
warm water,) with a head of celery, a large
onion, and a blade of beaten mace ; cover the
stew pan close, and set it over a slow fire till the
vegetables are soft enough to rub through a tam-
mis, which will be in about half an hour, if the
turnips are good. While the soup is boiling, cut
a large turnip into small dice, and boil them till
they are tender. When your soup is done enough,
rub it through a tn minis into a clean stewpan, sea-
son it with a teaspoonfnl of salt, put the turnip
that you have cut into dice into it ; set it on the
lire again for ten minutes, and serve it up. Cut a
slice of bread into dice, and fry it as we have di-
rected in the receipt for pease soup, No. 218, or
the crust of a French roll cut into small squares,
and dried before the fire and sent up on a plate.
Turnip Soup, the French Way. (No. 210.)
In the game season, it is very seldom that phea-
sants and partridges are all eaten upon a gentleman's
table, consequently it will be easy for a cook (o
give her master a very good soup at a very little
expense, by taking all the meat off the breasts,
and pounding it in a mortar ; and beating to pieces
the leo-s and bones, and boiling them in some
r^ J TJ
broth for an hour. Boil six turnips, mash them,
and strain them through a tammis cloth with the
meat that has been pounded in a mortar, strain
your broth, and put a little of it at a time
into the tammis to help you to strain all of it
through. Put your soup-kettle near the fire, but
do not let it boil ; when ready to dish your din-
ner, have six yolks of eggs mixed with half a pint
of cream, strain through a silk sieve^ put your
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
soup on Hie fire, and as it is coming to a boil, put
in the eggs, and stir well with a wooden spoon ; do
not let it boil, as it would curdle ; look if it is salt
enough.
Obs. I received the above from the same
nriist who wrote the receipt to dress Turtle,
No. 250.
Carrot and Turnip Soup. x (No. 211.)
Put three ounces of fresh butter into a three
quart stewpan ; when it is melted, fill it about one
third lull with carrots and turnips cut into small
squares; shake these over the fire for ten minutes,
or a quarter of an, hour ; then add as much water
as will nearly (ill the saucepan, and after letting it
stew gently for an hour, slice in a couple of
onions, stew for two hours longer ; a quarter of an
hour before you serve up, stir in a teacupful of
bread raspings, some salt, and either some Cay-
enne, or common pepper.
Carrot Soup. (No. 2.12.)
Scrape and wash a dozen large carrots, and
peel off the red outsides, which is the only part
that should be used for this soup; put them into
a gallon stewpan, with one head of celery, two
large onions, and two turnips cut into thin pieces,
the same as the carrots ; take two quarts of com-
mon beef, veal, or mutton broth, or if you have
any cold roast beef bones, they will make very
good broth for this soup; when you have put the
broth to the roots, cover the stewpan close, and
set it on a slow stove for two hours and a half,
BROTHS, G RAY I ES, A N D SOUPS.
when tlic carrots will be soft enough to rub
through a tammis, or hair sieve, with a wooden
spoon ; then add as much broth as will make it a
proper thickness, i. e. almost as thick as pease
soup, put it into a clean stewpan, make it hot,
season with a little salt, and send it. up with some
toasted bread cut into pieces, half an inch square ;
some put it into the soup, but the best w r ay is to
send it up on a plate, as a side dish.
Obs. This is a very elegant soup, and neither
expensive nor troublesome to prepare : inthe kitch-
en of some opulent epicures, the roots are fried in
butter, before they are put on to stew : if this is
not done very carefully, and with very nicely
clarified fat, all the sweet flavour of the vege-
tables will be overpowered by the rank empyreu-
matic savour of the fryingpan.
Parsnip Soup. (No. 2 13.)
This is made in the same manner as the carrot
soup; it is unnecessary to recapitulate the fore-
going receipt,
Celery Soup. (No. 2 14.)
Split half a dozen heads of the whitest celery
you can get into slips about two inches long,
wash them well, and lay them on a hair sieve to
drain, and put them into three quarts of veal
gravy (see Receipt, JNo. 192) in a gallon soup-
pot ; set it by the side of the fire, to stew very
gently till the celery is tender ; (this will take
tibout an hour). If any scum rises, take it off,
H 5
"BROTHS; GRAVIES, AND SOUP&.
Pease Soup. (No. 218.)
To one quart of split peas (whole peas are
often difficult to burst,) put one gallon of soft
water, and a pound of bacon, (not very fat,) or
roast beef bones, or four anchovies, or instead
of the gallon of water, a gallon of the liquor
in which meat has been boiled, tasting it first, to
make sure it is not too salt. Wash two heads of
celery, cut it, and put it in, with two large onions
peeled, a sprig of savory, and sweet marjoram;
set it on the trivet, and let it boil gently over a
slow fire, stirring it every quarter of an hour (to
keep the peas from sticking to the bottom,) till
the peas are tender, which will be in about three
hours; then work it through a coarse hair sieve,
and then through a fine one with the back of a
wooden spoon ; put it into a clean stewpan, with
half a teaspoonful of ground black pepper *, let it
boil again for ten minutes, and if any fat arises,
skim it off. You may put in a head of celery cut
into pieces an inch long, or a score of young
button onions. Cut a slice of bread, that has
been baked two or three days, into dice about
half an inch square; put a tablespoonful of clean
drippings into an iron fryingpan, and when it is
melted, put in the bread, and fry it a light brown
colour; take it up with a fish slice, and lay it on a
sheet of paper to drain the grease; be careful
this is done nicely : send these up in one side
* Some put in dried mint rubbed to a fine powder; but as
every body does not like mint, it is best to send it up on a
plate.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AXD SOUPS.
dish, and dried and powdered mint in another.
Those who are for a high relish, may have some
bacon cut into small squares like the bread, and
fried till it is crisp, and sent up in another little
dish.
Obs. The most economical method of making
pease soup, is to save the bones of a joint of roast
beef, and put them into the liquor a leg of mutton
has been boiled in, and proceed as in the above
receipt. A hock, or shank bone of ham, or a ham
bone, or the root of a tongue, or a red herring,
are favourite additions with some cooks ; others
send up rice or vermicelli with pease soup*.
Pease Soup without Meat. (No. 2 19.)
A pease soup may be made savoury, full to
the palate, and most excellent and agreeable,
without any meat, by incorporating two ounces
of fresh beef, mutton, or pork drippings, with two
ounces of oatmeal, and mixing this well into the
gallon of soup, made as in the first receipt.
Pease Soup, and Pickled Pork. (No. 220.)
A couple of pound of the belly part of pickled
pork will make very good pease soup 3 if the pork
* My witty predecessor, Dr. HUNTER, (see Culina, page 97,)
says, " If a proper quantity of curry powder be added to
pease soup, a good soup might be made, under the title of curry
peas soup. Heliogabalus offered rewards for the discovery
of a new dish, and the British Parliament have given notoriety
to inventions of much less importance than * curry peas
soup.'"
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS,
be not too salt, i.e. if it lias been in salt more
than two days, it must be laid in water the night
before it is used, and put it on in a gallon of
water, with the ingredients mentioned in the first
receipt ; let it boil gently for two hours, then put
in the pork, and boil very genlly for an hour
longer; when done, wash the pork clean in hot
water, and send it up in a dish, and the soup in a
tureen, with the accompaniments ordered in the
first receipt for pease soup.
Obs. The meat is boiled no longer than to be
done enough to eat; thus you get the soup witb-
out any expense of meat destroyed.
Plain Pease Soup. (No. 22 1 .)
To a quart of split peas, and two heads of ce-
lery, put a gallon of soft water; let them simmer
gently over a slow fire for three hours ; when
they are well softened, work them through a
coarse hair sieve, and then through a fine one,
into a clean stewpan, with two teaspoonsful of
salt, and half a teaspoonful of ground black pep-
per. Prepare fried bread and dried mint as in
the first receipt for pease soup, and send them up
with it in two side dishes.
Obs. This is an excellent family soup, pro-
duced with very little trouble or expense ; most of
the receipts for pease soup, like those preceding*
this, are crowded with ingredients that completely
overpower the flavour of the pea.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AXD SOUPS,
Asparagus Soup. (No. 222.)
This is a soup made with the heads of aspara-
gus, in the same manner as the green pease soup
is with pease, except that only half the asparagus
is rubbed through a sieve, the other is to be cut
in pieces about half an inch long, and boiled till
tender, and sent up in the soup ; to make two
quarts of good soup, there must be half a pint of
heads to thicken it, and another half pint cut in.
This soup is sometimes made, by adding the aspa-
ragus heads to common pease soup.
Water Soup. (No. 223.)
Clean four carrots, four onions, two parsnips,
and two heads of celery, three or four turnips, a
small cabbage, half a pint of split peas, a leek,
and a teacupful of bread crumbs ; put them into
a saucepan with five pints of cold water, place it
over a slow fire, and let it boil gently for three
hours; work your ingredients through a cullen-
der into a clean stewpan, and season it with pep-
per and salt ; send it up hot, with fried bread cut
into dice, the same as directed with pease soup.
Maigre Gravy Soup. (No. 224.)
Peel and wash six large onions, two carrots,
two turnips, and two parsnips, and a head of
celery; cut them into thin slices, and put them
into a large stewpan, with a quarter of a pound
of butter ; set the stewpan over a quick fire, stir
in some flour, and let them fry till they have got
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
well browned ; pour lo them a gallon of boiling 1
wafer, a pint or' split peas, some bread raspings,
or stale crusts, and two blades of bruised mace, or
three cloves, a teaspoonful of ground black pep-
per, and salt enougli to season it ; let it j,l<\v very
gently for two hours, and strain through a tain-
mis: by this method your soup will be as well
coloured, and the flavour as good, as if it were made
with gravy. The last thing, put in either small
onions, turnips, or celery, which you will have
ready boiled for the purpose ; send up toasted
bread cut into dice, in a dish, and any dried herbs
you please in another dish.
Obs. The French sometimes add to this,
(which much improves it,) a couple of the sea ducks
called Macreuse, which feed upon muscles, and
being of a fishy nature, may be eaten on fast days.
Fish Soup. (No. 225.)
You may make this with a cod's skull, or three
pounds of eels, or three pounds of skate, or half a
dozen flounders ; cut them to pieces, put them on
to stew in three quarts of water, season it with
four blades of bruised mace, an onion with four
cloves stuck in it, a head of celery, some pepper
and salt, and a bunch of sw r eet herbs, or three
drachms of soup herb powder : cover them down
close, and after they have simmered gently for n
couple of hours, pass the liquor through a hair
sieve into a clean stewpan ; while this is doing,
beard a pint of oysters, and pound them in a mor-
tar with the yolks of three hard eggs, and a little
pepper and salt -, let all boil up together till it is
BROTHS, GRAVIES, A'XD SOUPS.
the thickness of cream, pom it into your tureen,
and send it to table.
Onion Soup Maigre. (No. 226.)
Take half a dozen large onions*, two carrots,
two heads of celery, and one turnip; slice these
very thin, and put a quarter of a pound of butter
into a stewpan ; when it boils, which you will
know by its leaving off scolding, put in the above
ingredients, and fry them till they are brown,
but take care not to burn them ; then add, by de-
grees, either three quarts of thin pease soup, or
boiling water, two anchovies, four blades of mace,
and some whole black pepper, and two penny
rolls; boil up together till the bread is reduced to
a pulp ; work it through a coarse hair sieve, and
set it again upon the fire ; skim it well, thicken it
with the yolks of four eggs, and pass it through a
sieve again; send up with it fried bread cut
into the form of dice, or a French roll cut inio
small bits and dried before the fire.
Brown Soup Maigre. (No. 227.)
Put a gallon of water into a soup-pot, with
three quarters of a pint of bread-raspings to
thicken it ; throw in two or three onions sliced,
two or three cloves, a teaspoonful of whole black
pepper, the same of salt ; boil up together for
about half an hour, and rub it through a sieve.
Take some carrots, and a head of celery cut into
* Two or three dozen very small onions are sometimes
used for a change, fried in the same manner, whole.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
bits, and fry them in butter ; put them to the
soup, let it go on simmering till these are tender :
if not brown enough, colour it with a little burnt
sugar, for which you have a receipt, No.
Soup-Herb Soup, in Twenty Minutes.
(No.
To make a quart, put an ounce of butter into a
two quart stewpan, with a middling sized onion
chopped small, fry it till it is a little brown, then
add two large tablespoonsful of flour, and two tea-
spoonsful ot soup-herb powder, No. 459, or one of
dried parsley, one of savory, and one of lemon-
thyme, or basil, six berries of black, and the same
quantity of Jamacia pepper pounded, and half a
bay-leaf; stir them together, and pour to them by
degrees a quart of boiling water ; when it is well
mixed, let it boil, for ten minutes ; add a wine-
glass of table beer, and a large spoonful of catsup
or browning, season with salt, and rub it through
atammis, or fine hair sieve ; toast a slice of bread,
cut it into pieces three quarters of an inch square,
and send up on a plate.
Obs. This has the advantage of being very
quickly prepared at a very moderate expense.
Soon made Savoury Soup. (No. 229.)
Put four ounces of oatmeal into a basin, and
mix it well with three ounces of clean drippings
of pork, beef, or mutton; mix this by degrees
\> ith a galioa of soft water, add to it a tablespoon-
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
ful of the soup-herb powder *, No. 459, a tea-
spoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of ground
black pepper, and same of allspice; let it simmer,
and stir it together for a couple of minutes, and it
is ready.
Obs. Those who have not tasted this, will
not easily imagine what a delicious meal is pro-
duced by the combination of these cheap and
homely ingredients.
Dripping Soup. (No. 230.)
Wash five ounces of barley, and put it on to
boil on a slow fire in six quarts of water; skim it
carefully, and when it is reduced to about five
quarts, put on a head of celery, or half a drachm
of celery seed, and a large onion, and let it boil
another hour, till it is reduced to a gallon ; put
four ounces of oatmeal into a basin, mix it well
with three ounces of clean drippings, and these
by degrees with the above liquor, adding to it a
tablespoonful of the soup-herb savoury pow-
der, and a teaspoonful of ground black pepper,
and two teaspoonsful of salt ; let all boil up to-
gether for a few minutes till it is well incorpo-
rated.
*V* Dripping intended for soup,, should be taken out of the
pan almost as soon as it has dropped from the meat ; if it is
not quite clean and nice, clarify it. See Receipt, No. 83.
For various receiptsfor economical cookery, see 3Irs. lUs/-
roc's book, azuork of great ingenuity and originality.
* If you have no soup-herb powder, use two teaspoonsfiil
of dried and pounded parsley, one of winter savory, one ot
lernou-thyme, and a quarter of a. draclmr of celery seed-
BROTHS, GRAVIES, A!\D SOUPS.
Obs. If (he generally received opinion bfc
true, that animal and vegetable foods afford nou-
rishment in proportion to the quantity of oil. jelly,
mucilage, and sugar that can be extracted from
them; these soups have strong claims to the at-
tention of the rational economist.
Vermicelli Soup. (No. 231.)
.
Put a quarter of a pound of vermicelli info a
quart stcwpan, with a pint of cold water; when it
boils, take it out, and put it on a hair sieve to
drain; then put it .into cold water for a few
minutes, and drain it on a hair sieve again ; have
ready two quarts of veal gravy, made as in re-
ceipt; ISo. 192, put this iii7o a clean gallon stew-
pan, put the vermicelli to it, let it boil a few
minutes, season it with salt, and send it up hot,
with the crust of a French roll, cut into pieces
the size of a sixpence, on a side dish.
Vermicelli Soup White. (No. 232.)
Put two quarts of veal broth, made as in receipt
No. lUl, into a clean gallon stewpan ; put it on the
stove, and when it boils, mix the yolk of three eggs
with half a pint of cream, and a little salt; strain
it through a hair sieve into the soup ; stir it quick,
but do not let it boil, or it will curdle; send it up
as quick as possible.
Maccaroni Soup. (No. 233.)
Boil six ounces of maccaroni in water for four
minutes, lay it on a hair sieve that all the water
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
may drain from it ; put into a sfewpan again, with
a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a bay leaf, an
onion, with two cloves stuck in it, and half a pint
of broth or water ; let it simmer in the corner of
the stove till done.
To make your soup, you must have one pound
of good lean ham, a knuckle of veal, and an old
fowl ; cut your ham in slices, and lay them at
the bottom of a large stewpan, cut your veal to
pieces and your fowl, and put them to the ham,
with a ladleful of broth, or water ; set your stew-
pan on the fire, and let it reduce till it begins -to
stick to the sfewpan, then cover your meat with
broth, or water, skirn it well, put in some salt,
with two carrots, one onion, two cloves, a head of
celery, two turnips, and one parsnip ; let it sim-
mer four or five hours, then strain the liquor
through a hair sieve ; three quarts is all you must
expect, if you like to have good soup ; then have
three quarters of a pound of parmesan cheese
grated ; when ready to dish, take away the onion
and bay leaf from the maccaroni, put at the bottom
of your tureen, a bed of maccaroni, then a bed of
parmesan cheese, and so on, till all is in ; pour
your soup over, and send it up as hot as possible.
%* Every article employed in this soup must be of the very
best quality ; it is seldom well made in this country,
Maccaroni Soup, the new way. (No. 234.)
This is called in the French kitchen, " Potage
a la Camerani)' the erudite gourmand who invent-
ed it.
Prepare your maccaroni and broth as in the last
receipt, mince fine all the vegetables that have
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AMD SOUPS.
been boiled in the broth, with two dozen of fowls'
livers that have been parboiled, chop these, and
mix with the vegetables, and lay a bed of these
ingredients between the maccaroni and the cheese,
of which you will want a pound.
** This is one of the last productions, and the reigning
favourite of the French kitchen, where the desirefor novelty
'is insatiable, and folios might he filled with their innument-
ble receipts for soups.
Cray Fish Soup. (No. 235.)
This soup is sometimes made with beef broth,
and sometimes with fish, in the following manner.
Take two or three flounders, eels, gudgeons,
&c. and set them on to boil in a gallon of cold
w^ter ; when it is pretty nigh upon boiling, scum
it well, and put in a couple of onions, and as
many carrots cut to pieces, and some parsley, a
dozen berries of black and Jamaica pepper, and
about half a huivdred cray-fish ; take off the
small claws, and shells of the tails, and pound
them fine, and boil them with your broth about
an hour ; strain off, and break in some crusts of
bread to thicken it, and if you can get it, the
spawn of a lobster, (the inside spawn gives the
most colour,) pound it and put to your soup, and
let it simmer very gently for a couple of minutes,
put in your cray-fish, make hot, and send up.
Obs. One of my predecessors recommends
4i cray-fish pounded alive , as an ingredient in his
broth." to sweeten the sharpness of the blood.
Vide ClermonCs Cookery, page 5, 8vo, Lon-
don, 1776.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
Praton t or Shrimp Soup. (No.
Prawns, or shrimps, make an excellent soup
done just in the same manner ; but there is a
small bag in the carcass full of gravel, which
must be taken out before you pound them for
stock. You use only the tails of the prawn, but
the cray-fish, body and all, except the legs and
shells.
Lobster Soup. (No. 237.)
To make a most elegant, nutritious, and de-
licious lobster soup, take four large live young
hen lobsters, pick out all the eggs, or outside live
spawn, then boil the lobsters in salt and water for
twenty or thirty minutes, according to their size ;
when cold, split the tails, take out the fish, crack
the claws, and cut the meat into mouthfuls : take
out the coral and soft part of the body, bruise
part of the coral in a mortar, pick out the fish
from the chines, beat part of it with the coral, and
with this make force-meat balls finely seasoned
with mace, nutmeg, and a little grated lemon-peel,
and boil them in a little of your veal broth. Make
a gallon of veal broth as per receipt No. 191, sea-
son it with mace, nutmegs, and a little sweet basil ;
take the live spawn and bruise it in a marble
mortar with a little of your veal broth, rub it
through a sieve, and add it to your soup with the
meat of the lobsters, and the remaining coral ; let
it simmer very gently for ten minutes ; have
ready the yolks of six fresh eggs, beat them up well
with a little of the soup, and just give it a warm
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
bead, lay it on a dish, pour the soup through a
line sieve into a stone-ware pan, and set them by
in a cool place till the next day; then set the
soup on to boil away, till it is reduced to three
quarts; put two ounces of butter* into a gallon
stewpan; when it is melted, throw into it two
large tablespoonsful of flour ; when they are well
mixed together, and browned by degrees, pour
to this your soup, and stir it well together for half
an hour, strain it through a hair sieve into a clean
stewpan, and put to it the meat of the head (which,
while your soup has been going on, you have cut
into pieces about an inch and a half square) ; let it
stew half an hour longer, and season it with Cay-
enne pepper, salt, and a glass of good white wine,
or a tablespoonful of brandy.
Ox Tail Soup. (No. 240.)
Two tails will make a tureen of soup ; cut them
in pieces at the joints, and lay them to soak in
warm water, while you get ready your gravy and
vegetables. If you wish it to be very rich, cut
into slices half a pound of bacon, and a pound of
gravy beef, put them into a two gallon stewpan,
"with a quarter pint of cold water, a head of ce-
lery, two onions, with four cloves stuck in one of
them, a dozen berries of allspice, the same of
black pepper, two carrots, two turnips, and a
bundle of savory, lemon-thyme, and parsley ;
put your stewpan over a slow fire till the meat
looks brown, turn it about, and let it get a little
colour ; then put in the tails, with three quarts of
* Or thicken with fat skimmings, as in the next receipt.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
boiling water, make it boil quick, and skim it
carefully, as long as you see any scum rise ; then
cover your pot as close as possible, and set it on.
the side of the fire to keep simmering till the meat
becomes tender ; this will require two or three
hours ; mind it is not done too much : when per-
fectly tender, take out the meat, skim the fat off
your broth, and strain it through a sieve ; to
thicken it, put four tablespoon sful of the fat you
have taken off the broth into a clean stewpan,
with four tablespoonsful of flour, set them over
the fire, and stir them well together for five
minutes, pour in the broth by degrees, stirring it
and mixing it with the thickening; let it boil
twenty minutes till it is quite smooth, strain it
through a tammis into a clean stewpan, put in the
tails, with a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup,
and one of browning, or Ball's cavice, and the
same of wine, and season it with salt.
Hare Soup (No. 241.)
Is one of the best ways of dressing an old hare,
which, when it is so tough as to defy the teeth in
any other form, will make excellent soup.
Cut off the legs and shoulders, and divide the
body crossways, stew it very gently in a gallon of
water, with two ounces of lean ham or bacon, four
carrots, two onions, with four cloves stuck in
them, two blades of pounded mace, and a bundle
of sweet herbs, till the whole is tender : the time
this will take, depends very much upon the age
of the hare, and how long it has been kept before
it is dressed ; as a general rule, say three hours :
when it is quite tender, take the meat off the back.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS,
cut it into small pieces, and lay it aside ; cut the
rest of the meat off the legs and shoulders, mince
it, pound it in a mortar, and rub it through a
hair sieve, to make thickening for the soup ; put
in the meat of the back, season with a little nut-
meg and salt, a glass of port wine, and a few
grains of Cayenne pepper.
Obs. Cold roast hare will make excellent
soup. Chop it in pieces, and stew it in three
quarts of water for about an hour, and manage it
as in the above receipt ; the stuffing of the hare
will be a very agreeable substitute for sweet herbs
and seasoning.
Partridge Soup. (No. 242.)
If you have two or three birds that are too old
to send up as roasts, pick and draw them, cut
them into three or four pieces, and put them into
a large stew pan with a v quarter of a pound of lean
ham, a large carrot, a turnip, two onions, two
heads of celery, a dozen corns of allspice, and the
same of black pepper, two blades of mace, and
two or three cloves finely pounded : pour in a
pint of cold water, set the stewpan over a quick
lire, and watch it till the water has all boiled
away ; take care it does not burn : when the par-
tridges and ham have taken a good browning, add
two quarts of boiling water, or beef or veal broth
is better, if you have it; let it stew slowly for two
hours, then strain it through a sieve into a clean
stewpan. Take three whites and shells of eggs,
beat them well with a pint of cold water, and
pour it into the soup, set it on the fire, and just
when it is going to boil take it off, and set it on one
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
side of the fire for ten minutes, strain through a
taramis, or very fine napkin, season it with Cay-
enne pepper and salt, make it hot, and send it
up (in a side dish) with the crusts of two French
rolls cut into bits as big as a sixpence.
Soup without JVater. (No. 243.)
Cut into thin slices six pounds of lean beef,
and the same of veal, put them into a stone jar
with a dozen large turnips, peeled, washed, and
cut in slices, two onions, and a little salt; cover
the jar very close, so that no steam can evaporate,
and set it on some hay (to keep the jar steady) in
a large saucepan half full of boiling water, keep
a kettle of water boiling, to fill this up as it
wastes, set it over a slow fire to boil gently for
five hours ; strain your soup through a silk sieve
into a clean stewpan ; have ready boiled a carrot,
a turnip, and an onion, cut neatly into small dice;
put them into the soup, let them get warm in it,
and send up hot, with toasted bread cut into little
pieces on a plate.
Obs. This is certainly the very quintessence
of meat, and u ne plus ultra" of rapidly restora-
tive and immediately assimilating nourishment,
but it can only be served at those tables where
the mistress of the mansion never looks at the
butcher's bill.
Glbkt Soup. (No. 244.)
i,
Scald and clean three sets of goose, or five sets
of duck giblets, (leaving out the livers,) wash
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
them well in warm wafer, in two or tbree waters ;
divide the gizzards and necks into mouthfuls, and
crack the bones of the legs ; put them into a stew-
pan with a gallon of cold water : when they boil,
take off the scum as it rises, set them to stew very
gently, till the gizzards are quite tender ; this will
take about two hours, according to the size of the
giblets : take them up carefully with a skim-
mer, or large spoon full of holes, put them into
cold water, and wash them well. Put the liquor
they were boiled in on the fire again, with a bun-
dle of common, or lemon-thyme, knotted or sweet
marjoram, and winter savory, an onion with four
cloves stuck in it, six,berries of allspice, the same
of black pepper, three blades of mace beaten to
fine powder, a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup,
a teaspoonful of salt, and a glass of white wine.
Melt an ounce of butter in a quart stewpan, stir
in as much flour as will make it into a paste ; then
pour to it a ladleful of your giblet liquor, mix it
thoroughly together, and pour it into the stewpan
that has the giblet liquor in it; stir it well to-
gether, and let it boil gently for half an hour
longer : strain your soup through a tammis into
/he kireen, and add the giblets to it, and serve up.
There should be three quarts of soup.
Obs. Thus managed, a set of goose giblets
will make a quart of healthful, nourishing, and
agreeable soup : if you think the giblets alone will
not make the soup strong enough, you may add a
pound of gravy beef, a few leaves of sweet basil,
the juice of half a Seville orange or lemon, and
half a glass of white wine, to each quart of soup.
Those who are fond of forcemeat, may slip the
skin off the neck, tie up the end, and fill it with
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS,
the following stuffing : mince fine some sage, and
a couple of eggs boiled hard, a teacupful of bread
crumbs moistened with a little milk, a little grated
nutmeg, and some pepper and salt well incorpo-
rated together with a little melted butter, tie up the
other end tight, put them into the soup about half
an hour before you take it up.
Mock Mock Turtle, as made by E. STEVEN-
SON, Cook to Sir SIMON CLARK, Bt. 9
East JBarnet, Middlesex. (No. 245.)
Line the bottom of a stewpan that will hold
five pints, with, an ounce of nice bacon, or ham,
a pound and a half of lean gravy beef, a cow
heel, the inner rind of a quarter of a carrot, a
sprig of lemon-thyme, winter savory, three times
the quantity of parsley, two green leaves of
sweet basil *, and two shallots ; make a bundle of
these, and tie up in it a couple of blades of mace :
put in a large onion, with four cloves t stuck in it,
twelve corns of allspice, the same of black pep-
per ; pour on these a quarter pint of cold water,
cover your stewpan, and set it on a slow fire to
boil gently for a quarter of an h0ur ; then, for fear
your meat should catch, take off the cover, and
* To this fine aromatic herb, the turtle is much indebted
for the spicy flavour it imparts to the soup, and the high es-
teem it is held in by all good citizens of London, who, I be-
lieve, are pretty generally of the same opinion as Dr. Salmon.
See his " Household Dictionary, and Essay on Cookery J* Lon-
don, 8vo. 1710, page 34, article ' basil.' " This comforts the
heart, expels melancholy, and cleanses the lungs."
f Stick the cloves into the onion, to save your tammis or
sieve from being torn by the sharp points of the cloves, when
you strain your sauce.
T 4
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
watch it ; and when it lias got a good brown
colour, fill up jour stewpan with boiling water,
and let it simmer very gently for two hours : it*
you wish to have the full benefit of your meat,
only stew it till it is just tender, and cut it into
mouthfuls, and put it into your soup. Put a
tablespoonful of the thickening, No. 257, af sauces,
into a^two quart stewpan, pour to it a ladleful of
your gravy, and stir it quick till it is well mixed,
pour it back into the stewpan where your gravy
is, and let it simmer gently for half an hour
longer, then strain it through a tammis into a
gallon stewpan ; cut the cow-heel into pieces
about an inch square, squeeze through a sieve the
juice of a lemon, a tablespoonful of plain brown-
ing, the same of mushroom catsup, a teaspoonful
of salt, half a teaspoonful of ground black pepper,
and as much grated nutmeg as will lay on a six-
pence, with a glass of Madeira or sherry wine ; let
it all simmer together for about half an hour.
Forcemeat and egg balls may be added if you
please ; you will find a receipt for these under
the article forcemeat, Nos. 380, &c.
V* A pound of veal cutlets cut into pieces about an inch
square, and fried and stewed till they are tender., will be
a great addition. The above excellent soup costs only s
teen pence a quart,
s. d.
One pound and a half of gravy beef- 1
Cow Heel 5
Herbs 2
Butter andjlour 4
Wine 6
Ha/f a lemon 1
Bacon 2
Ttco quarts cost only 2 8
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
MOCK TURTLE, as made by M. BIRCH, one of
Apiciuss Assistants in this JFork. (No. 246.)
Take two pounds of gravy-beef, with a small
knuckle of veal, about 31bs ; chop the bone, and cut
the beef in thin slices ; put it into a gallon stcwpan,
with half a pint of water, a slice of lean ham or ba-
con, one turnip, one carrot, three onions, .with four
cloves stuck in one, a teaspoonful of black pepper,
the same of allspice, a bundle of sweet herbs ; put
it over a slow fire till it is of a light brown, but be
very careful it does not burn ; then put to it two
quarts of boiling water, let it simmer for two hours,
then strain it off, and put two quarts more; simmer
it for three hours longer, strain it off, and set it by
till next day : boil half a calf's head with the skin
on, three quarters of an hour; when cold, cut the
meat off in small square pieces. To thicken your
soup, put an ounce of butter into a stewpan ; as
soon as it is melted, mix two tablespoonsful of
flour with it, stirring it over the fire a few minutes ;
then mix the gravy with it by degrees : as soon
as it boils, mix three tablespoonsful of oatmeal
with cold water, and put to the soup ; let it boil
for ten minutes, strain it, and put it into the stew-
pan again with the meat, and a roll of lemon-peel ;
simmer it for an hour and a half, or two hours,
till quite tender, and finish your soup with sea-
soning it with wine, catsup, lemon-juice, &c.
Obs. The above is most excellent, and was eaten
with unanimous and perfect approbation, by the " COM-
MITTEE OF TASTE," (vide Preface,) who ordered it to
be printed, as well as the following receipt, which is
rather more economical.
Mock Turtle. (No. 247.)
This is the dish, says " le grand Cuisinier Jm~
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
pcrial de France" which (he English cooks pre-
pare when they wish to rival the French cookery.
Take a calf's head with the skin on, take out the
brains, wash the head well several times in cold
water, put it on in hot water, and let it boil an hour.
White the head is doing, cut nib of ham into slices,
chop a knuckle of veal, or shin of beef, into lb
pieces, lay them in a two gallon stewpan, with two
large carrots, two turnips, two heads of celery, and
four large onions, with eight cloves stuck in one of
them, a |oz, of thin cut lemon-peel, half as much
eshallois ; a bundle as thick as your wrist of winter-
savory, pot^marjoram, sweet-marjoram, and lemon-
thyme, equal parts, half the quantity of basil, (or
|oz. of dried soup-herb powder, No. 459, tied up
in a bag,) and three times the quantity of parsley :
put in 6 blades of mace, two drachms of allspice,
and the same of black pepper, all finely pounded :
then put in a pint of the liquor the calf's head is
boiling in, cover the stewpan, and set it over a
quick fire till all the liquor is boiled away, and the
meat begins to stick to the bottom of the pan ; now
fill it up with the liquor in which the calf's head
was boiled, cover it close, and let it stew gently for
three hours longer; (there should be five quarts of
soup when it is finished ;) then to thicken it put in
2oz. of butter into a quart stewpan ; when it is
melted, gradually stir in five tablespoonsful of flour,
and rub it up well till you make it a stiff paste, mix
some of the broth with this, adding it by degrees,
stirring it all the while till thoroughly incorporated;
if it is at all lumpy, pass it through a sieve; let
it stew slowly half an hour longer, and strain it
through a tammis into a clean stewpan, cut the head
and tongue into mouth fuls, and season the soup with
two tablespoonsful of brownings, same of lemon-
juice, three of mushroom catsup, and three wine-
-BROTHS, GRAVIES, AXD SOUPS'.
glasses of wine ; let it simmer gently for half an hour
longer, till the meat is quite tender, taking care it is
not overdone : while the soup is doing, prepare for
each tureen a dozen and a half of raock turtle force-
meat balls, (to make these, see No. 375, or No. 390,
to No. 396,) and a dozen egg balls ; put these into
the tureen, and squeeze in the juice of a lemon.
Brain balls are a very elegant addition, and are
made Jby boiling the brains for ten minutes, then put
them in cold water, and cut them into pieces about
as big as a large nutmeg; take savory, or sweet mar-
joram and lemon-thyme dried and finely powdered,
nutmeg grated, and pepper and salt, and pound
themalltogether; roll the brains in this mixture,and
make as much of this powder as possible stick to
them, dip them in an egg well beat up, and then in
finely grated and sifted bread crumbs, fry them in
hot fat, and put them into the soup the last thing.
A veal sweetbread, with or without a pound of
salted neat's tongue, cut into mouthfuls, is a
favourite addition with some cooks. We order
the meat to be cut into mouthfuls, that it may be
eaten with a spoon ; the knife and fork have no
business in a soup plate.
%* Some of our culinary cottmporarics order theHaut-goutofthis(as
above directed, sufficiently relishing) soup to be augmented by
the addition of anchovies, mushrooms, truffles, morells, curry-powder,
artichoke bottoms, salmon's head and livers, or lobsters and--strfes cut
into mouthfuls, a bottle of Madeira, <c., and to complete their sur-
feiting and burn-gullet olio t they put in such a tremendous quantity
of Cayenne pepper, that no palate, that has not been educated in the
Indies, can endure it.
Obs. This is a most delicious and nutritious soup,
and within reach of those who " eat to live;" but if it
had been composed expressly for those who only " live
to eat," I do not know how it could have been made
more agreeable : as it is, the lover of" good eating will
" wish his throat a mile long, and every inch of it
palate."
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUP3.
English Turtle Soup. (No. 248.)
See No. 502. Alamode Beef." ; ^
Malaga Tazcmy Soup. (No. 249.)
Take two quarts of water, and boil a nice fowl
or chicken, (hen put in the following ingredients,
a large white onion, a large chilly*, two teaspoons-
ful of ginger pounded, the same of curry stuff, one
teaspoonful of turmeric, and half a teaspoon ful of
black pepper : boil all these for half an hour, and
then fry some small onions, and put them in. Sea-
son it with salt, and serve it up in a tureen.
Turtle Soup. (No. 250.)
The following recipe for dressing this richest
and most delicious dish, is the present practice of
an experienced French cook, a consummate mas-
ter of the art, in his own words.
" The best size for taste, is from 60 to 80 pounds;
this will make 6 or 8 tureens of fine soup. Kill the
turtle the evening before you wish to dress it ; tie a
cord to the hind tins of the turtle, and hang it up
with the head downwards; tie the fore fins by way
of pinioning them, it would otherwise beat itself,
and be troublesome to the executioner ; take the
head with your left hand, and with a sharp knife
cut off the neck as near the head as possible;
there is a joint where the knife will pop through
without any force. Have one or two large tubs
of water ready, and when you dissect your turtle,
put it on a block on the back shell, slip your
knife between the calliopee and the calliopash ; I
mean between the breast and the edge of the baek
shell : when the knife has been round, and the
breast is detached from the back shell, pass your
fingers underneath, and with your knife detach the
* The pod of which Cayenne pepper is made.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
oreast from the fins, always keeping the edge of
/our knife on the side of the breast, otherwise it
may happen you may break the gall, which is
very large, and if broken, your turtle is spoiled.
Cut your breast into four pieces, next take away
the guts, beginning by the liver, and cut away the
gall, to be out of danger at once. The guts are
to be thrown away : 1 have seen some cooks have
them cleaned and cut in pieces, and put into the
soup, but generally they are left on the gentle-
men's plates : a basin of turtle is considered a
treat, consequently it should be so dressed that
none be left on the plate or basin. When your
turtle is emptied, throw the heart, liver, kidneys,
and lights, into water, cut away the fins to the
root, I mean as near to the back shell as possible,
next cut the fins in the second joint, that the
white meat may be separated from the green :
scrape the fat that sticks against the back shell, or
calliopash, take it like as if you was skimming
any thing, and put it aside. Cut the calliopash
into four pieces. Set a large turbot pan on the
fire, and when it boils dip a fin into it for a
minute, then take it out and peel it very clean ;
when that is done, take another, and so on till all
are done ; then the head, next the shell and breast,
piece by piece. Be careful to have the peel and
shell entirely cleaned off, then put in the same
pan some clean water, with the breast and back,
the four fins, and the head; let it boil till the
bones will leave the meat; put with it a large
faggot of turtle herbs as big as your two fists, four
bay leaves, and some thyme. If you mean to
make two dishes of the fins, you must take them
away when they have been boiled one hour.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
Port -wine, and a pottle of musbrooms ; when
your sauce boils, put your four fins in ; after
having taken away all the small bones that are
seen breaking through the skin, put \vith it a fag-
got of a few sprigs of parsley, a bit of thyme, one
bay leaf, and four cloves, and let it simmer one
hour: ten minutes before you dish, put five dozen
of button onions that you have ready peeled :
when you dish, put in each dish a hind fin and a
fore one, and look if it is salt enough.
*** If y ou hare no brown sauce, put in a stewpan a quarter
of a pound of butter ; when it is melted, put to it two zcooden
spoonsful of' flour, stir it on the jire till it gets a hazel
colour, pour a bottle of Port wine in it, a ladlcful of broth,
find, zchen it boils, do as before mentioned, and scum it
zcell.
Mock Turtle. (No. 251.)
This receipt is from the same source as the pre-
ceding one, and is an excellent and highly finish-
ed soup.
Have a calf's head scalded with the skin on, cut,
it in two, take out the brain, and wash your head
well ; when well cleaned, tie it up in a cloth, and
let it boil four hours, then take it out, and let it
cool till you want it. Have a pound of lean ham
cut in slices, range them to the bottom of a stock-
pot, or braising kettle ; cut two knuckles of veal
into pieces, put them over your harn, put a
ladleful of broth or water in your stock-pot, and
set it over a brisk fire ; when the meat begins to
stick to the bottom, cover your meat with water ;
when it has been skimmed well, put two carrots,
two onions, three bay leaves, four cloves, three
blades of mace, a large faggot of turtle herbs, and
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
some salt ; let it boil four hours ; your broth must
be reduced to six or seven quarts ; strain your
broth through a tammis sieve, then put in a stew-
pan three ounces of butter, let it melt, then put
to it two wooden spoonsful of flour, stir it till it is
the colour of a hazel nut, then pour in a bottle of
Madeira wine, mix it well, then pour in your
broth, and stir it till it boils, put in three table-
spoonsful of essence of anchovies, a teaspoonful of
curry powder, and half a teaspoonful of Cayenne
pepper : skini it well.
Now cut your calf's head, take only the skin,
the ears, the eyes, and the tongue, all about an
inch long, and half an inch wide ; do not put any
other meat but what is mentioned, as any other
part of the head, if put with this, would go to
pieces, and spoil the look of your soup ; make
some forcemeat balls, as mentioned in the pre-
ceding receipt for turtle ; let them simmer ten
minutes. When ready to dish, squeeze two
lemons in each tureen ; send it up as hot as
possible.
Portable Soup. (No. 252.)
Break the bones of a shin of beef, a small
knuckle of veal, and a couple of cow heels, put
them into a soup-pot that will hold four gal-
lons of water, just cover your meat with water
and set it on the fire to heat gradually till it nearly
boils ; watch it, and skim it attentively while any
scum rises, pour in a quart of cold water, to
make it throw up all the scum that may remain,
let it come to a boil again, and again skim it care-
fully : when no more scum rises, and the broth
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
appears clear, put in what herbs or spice you
please, but no salt: let it boil very gently for
eight hours, strain it through a hair sieve into a
large brown stone-pan ; skim off all the grease
before you put it by, and set it where it will cool
quickly ; next day pour it as quietly as possible
Into a thfee gallon stewpan, (taking care not to
let any of the settlings at the bottom of the stone-
pan go into the stewpan ; this answers better than
straining it ;) let it boil as fast as possible, in the
uncovered stewpan, on a quick fire : pour it into
a three quart stewpan ; if any scum rises, take it off
with a skimmer ; now watch it all the time till it
is reduced to the thickness of a very thick syrup ;
take the utmost care that it does not burn ; a
moment's inattention now will lose you all your
labour, and the soup will be spoiled : take a little
of it out in a spoon and let it cool ; if it sets into
strong jelly, it is done enough ; if it does not,
boil it a little longer, and try it again till it does ;
have ready some little preserving pots, let them
be quite dry, pour the soup into them*, and let
it stand till the next day. Set a large flat bot-
tommed stewpan, one third part filled with boil-
ing water, over a very slow fire, place the pots
of soup in this, taking care that the water does
not reach the rims of them within a couple of
inches ; let the pots stand (uncovered) in this
hot water (without boiling) for six or seven hours.
This is the only way of bringing the soup to a
proper thickness ; it was before boiled up as high
as it could be, over the naked fire, without burn-
* You will get a pint of excellent broth by washing out the
stewpan with a pint of boiling water.
BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS.
ing; but that was not enough, without the aid of
this water-bath it could not be reduced to the
thickness of a stiff glue, whilst hot, which
is the only way to be sure of its being perfectly
firm when cold. It will now be of the con-
sistence of a thick hard glue, and will keep
good for many months, if it is put in a cool dry
place.
Obs. The uses of this concentrated essence
of meat are numerous. As a general keeping
stock, it is the most convenient basis for making
extempore broths, soups, gravies, and sauces. To
make a pint of broth, pour a pint of boiling water
on apiece of the soup, about as big as a small wal-
nut, stir it till it is melted, add a little salt, and the
broth is ready : if you have time and opportunity,
as there is no seasoning in the soup, cither of
herbs or spice, it will be a great improvement to
boil a bit of parsley and thyme, and half a dozen
corns of black pepper, in the water you melt the
soup in : this will produce you as good a broth as
need be.
An ounce of soup, melted in a quart of gravy,
is just the same as the quart of gravy was before it
was so boiled away.
To clarify Broth or Gravy. (No. 252.*)
Put on the broth in a clean stewpan, break the
white and shell of an egg, beat them together,
put them into the broth when it is coming to a
boil, stir it very quick with a whisk ; when it has
boiled a few minutes, strain it through a tammis
or a clean napkin.
SAUCES AXD GFwAVIZ-.
made sauce* : I shall therefore endeavour to <jive
LJ
the plainest directions how to produce, \vith the
least trouble and expense + possible, all the vari-
ous compositions the English kitchen affords for
the amusement of John Bull, and kope to present
sufficient variety to suit all palates, and all pock-
ets . H that the cook may give satisfaction in all
families : il.c i:;ore combinations of this sort she
is acquainted -with, the better she v,ill compre-
hend the management of every one of them.
I have only rejected some outlandish farragoes ;
.e duty of a good sauce, (says the editor of the
" Almanack <tes Gourmands,'' vol. v. page 6.; to in: it-
: aii round and about the maxillary glands, and impercep-
tibly awaken into activity each ramification of the orgnns of
tte: if not iufficieatly savoury, it cannot produce this ef-
fect, and if too piquante, it will paralyze, instead of exciting
those exquiaitelj delicious titillations of tongue, and volup-
tuc -. . .-:- . orgasmas, that only the mcr-t accorapliihtd
philosophers of the mouth can produce on the highly edu-
cated palates of thrice happy grand gourmands.
r To save time and trouble is the most valuable frugality :
i if them. -A a family mil condescend to devote a
little time to the profitable and pleasant employment of pre-
paring some of the concentrated essences, the manner of
making which I have so plainly described in the following
chapter, many dis-hei) may be dressed with half the usual
time and trouble.
v\UCES AXD GRAVIES.
from a conviction they were by no means adapted
to an English palate, though they have been re-
ceived into some English books, for the sake of
swelling the volume : I believe they will never
be received by an Englishman's stomach, unless
for the reason they were admitted into the cookery
book ; i. e. because he has nothing else to put in it.
I could have made this the bigrgest book* with
half the trouble it has taken me to make it the
best. I have taken as much pains in describing,
in the fullest manner, how to make in the easiest,
most agreeable, and most economical wav. those
f %. )
common sauces that daily contribute to the com-
fort of the middle ranks of society ; as I have, in
directing the preparation of those extravagant
and elaborate double relishes, the most ingenious
and accomplished " officers of the mouth'" have
invented for the amusement of thorough bred
grand gourmands : these I have so reduced the
trouble and expense of making, as to bring them
within the reach of moderate fortunes, still pre-
serving all that is valuable of their taste and
" I intend here to ofier to all such as please to peruse it,
" a plain book, which is all and every part of it Book, and
nothing but solid book from beginning to end." Vide preface
to Dr. FULLER'S " Introductio ad Prudentiam" London,
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
qualities ; and yet so ordering them, that they ma i
delight the palate, without disordering tie sto
mach; leaving out those inflammatory ingredi
cnts which are only fit for an " iron throat, an(
adamantine bowels," and those costly materials
which any rational being would refuse to destroy
for the wanton purpose of merely giving a fin
name to the compositions they enter into, t
whose excellence they contribute nothing else
for instance, consuming two partridges to mak
sauce for one, when half a pint of my game gravy
No. 329, would be infinitely more acceptable t
unsophisticated English appetites, for whose pro
per and rational recreation I sat clown to com
pose these receipts : if I gain their patronage
which I have done my utmost to deserve, by de
voting so much time to the business of tin
kitchen, and repeating every experiment tha
appeared the least doubtful, or I thought admit
ted of the smallest improvement : I shall be fullj
gratified, if my book is not bought up with quit<
so much avidity by those high bred epicures
who are unhappily so much more nice than wise
they cannot eat any tiling dressed by an English-
man, and consider it barbarously unrefined, and
intolerably ungenteel, to endure the sight of the
best bill of fare that can be contrived, if written
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
in the vulgar tongue*. Let your sauces each
display a decided character ; send up your sim-
ple sauces as pure as possible ; they should only
taste of the material they take their name from.
. The imagination of most cooks is so incessantly
on the hunt for a relish, they seem to think
they can never make sauce savoury, without put-
ting into it every thing that ever was eaten ; and too
fond of supposing every addition must be an im-
provement, frequently destroy the natural flavour
of their plain sauces, by overloading them with
salt and spices t : but, remember, these will be de-
teriorated by any addition, save only just salt
Though some of these people have at last found out,
that an Englishman's head is as full of gravy as a French-
man's, and willing to give the preference to native talent,
retain an Englishman or woman as prime minister of their
kitchen ; still they seem ashamed to confess it, as they com-
monly insist, as a " sine qua non," that these English domes-
tics should understand the " ptirlez rous ;" and notwithstand-
ing they are perfectly initiated in all the minutiae of culinary
concerns, they consider them ineligible, if they cannot scrib-
ble a bill of fare in French.
t Spices are often very injudiciously jumbled together.
We would never have clove and allspice, or mace and nut-
meg in the same sauce : one will very well supply the place
of the other, and the frugal cook may save something con-
siderable by attending to this, to the advantage of her era-
K
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
enough to awaken the palate. On the contrary,
of your compound sauces the ingredients should
be so nicely proportioned, that no one be predo-
minant ; but, from the equal union of the com-
bined flavours, a fine mellow mixture is pro-
duced, whose very novelty cannot fail of being
sufficient excitement to the persevering gourmand,
if it has not pretensions to a permanent place at
his table. An ingenious cook will form an end-
less variety of these compositions ; and no part of
her business offers so fair an opportunity for her
to display her abilities.
To be a complete mistress of the art of cleverly
extracting and combining flavours *, besides the
gift of a good taste, requires all the experience, all
the genius, and all the dexterity and skill of the
most accomplished and exquisite professor, and
an intimate acquaintance and an attentive consi-
deration of the palates of those she is working for.
Take especial care to have your sauces sent to
table as hot as possible : nothing need be more
ployers, and her own time and trouble. In many of our re-
ceipts, we have fallen in with the fashion of ordering a mixture
of spices, which the above hint will enable the culinary stu-
dentto correct.
* If your palate becomes dull by repeatedly tasting, the
best way to refresh it, is to wash yowr mouth well with milk,
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
unsightly, than the surface of a sauce in a frozen
state, or garnished with grease on the top ; to re-
move every particle of which, draw a piece of
filtering paper over it : the same may be said of
all made dishes, of whose paraphernalia the sauce
forms a conspicuous part : remember to let your
sauces boil up, after you have put in any wine,
anchovy, or thickening, that their flavours may
be well blended with the other ingredients*.
* Before you put eggs or cream into a sauce, have all your
other ingredients well boiled, and your sauce or soup of pro-
per thickness, as neither eggs nor cream will contribute much
to thicken it. After you have put them in, do not set the
stewpan on the stove again, but hold it over the fire, and
shake it round one way till the sauce is ready.
K 2
SAUCES AND GRAVIES,
Melted Butter
Appears to be so simple and easy to prepare, it
is certainly very surprising it is not uniformly
well clone, and is a matter of general astonishment,
-that what is done so often in every kitchen,
should so seldom be done right.
It is spoiled nine times out of ten, more from
idleness than from ignorance, and rather because
the cook wont do it, than because she can't do it.
As it is the foundation of almost all our sauces*,
I have tried every way of making it, and hope,
at last, 1 have written two receipts, which if the
reader carefully observes, she will constantly
succeed in giving satisfaction. In the quantities
of the various sauces I have ordered, I have had
in view the providing for a moderate family of
half a dozen people. I recommend the cook
never to pour the sauce over the meat, or even
put it into the dish ; for, however well made, some
of the company may have an antipathy to it :
moreover, if it is sent up separate in a boat, it
will keep hot longer, and what is left of it may be
put by for another time, or used for another pur-
pose.
Lastly, it is to be observed, that in ordering the
proportions of meat, butter, wine, spice, &c. in the
following receipts, the proper quantity is set down,
and that a less quantity will not do; and in some
instances, those who are fond of the extreme of
piquance perhaps will require an addition,
if we have erred, it has been on the right side,
from an anxious wish to combine elegance with
As gravy is those of the French kitchen.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
economy, and the toothsome with the wholesome,
he following we recommend as an elegant relish
to fiubli soups and sauces.
ZEST,
For Chops, Sauces,
AND
Made Dishes.
(No. 255.)
A few atoms of this exquisitely piquante
and savoury quintessence of Ragout, im-
parts to whatever it touches the most deli-
cious and highly finished double relish ever
imagined, to awaken the palate with de-
light, refresh appetite, and instantly ex-
cite the good humour of (every man's mas-
ter) the stomach.
Invented by the Editor: sold by th e
PUBLISHER OE THIS WORK, and at BUT-
LER'S herb shop, opposite Henrietta
Street, Covent Garden ; and by Ball,
81, New Bond Street, and may be tasted
every day at Dolly's Chop House in Pater-
noster Kow, which has for centuries re
tained an undiminished reputation.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
Melted Butter. (No. 256.)
Keep a pint stewpan for this purpose only.
Cut two ounces of butter into little bits, that it
may melt more easily, and mix more readily ;
put it into the stewpan with a teaspoonful of flour,
and a tablespoonful of milk. When these are
well mixed, add three tablespoonsful of water ;
hold it over the fire, and shake it, (all the while
the same way,) till it just boils up. It should be
of the thickness of good cream.
Obs. This, we think, is incomparably the
best way of preparing melted butter. The milk
mixes with the butter much more easily, and more
intimately than water alone can be made to do,
and it looks smooth and fine like cream. If it is
to be mixed at table with savoury essences,
catsup, or cavice, &c., it should be made thicker
than if made merely to pour over vegetables.
Thickening. (No. 257.)
Clarified butter is best for this purpose ; but if
you have none ready, put some fresh butter into
a stewpan over a slow clear fire ; when it is melted,
add fine flour sufficient to make it the thickness of
paste ; stir it well together with a wooden spoon
for twenty minutes, till it is quite smooth, and
the colour of a guinea : pour it into an earthen
pan, and keep it for use. It will keep good a
fortnight in summer, and a month in winter. The
bigness of a walnut will generally be enough to
thicken a quart of gravy.
Obs. This in the French kitchen is called
roux. Be particularly attentive to the making of
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
it ; if it gets any burnt smell or taste, it will spoil
every thing it is put into. When cold, it should
be thick enough to cut out with a knife, like a solid
paste. It is a very essential article in the kitchen,
and is the basis of consistency in most made
dishes, soups, sauces, and ragouts : if the gra-
vies, &c. are too thin, add this thickening, more
or less, according to the consistence you would
wish them to have. In making thickening, the
less butter, and the more flour you use, the better ;
they should be thoroughly worked together, and
the broth, or soup, &c. you put them to, added
by degrees, and take especial care to incorporate
them well together, or your sauces, &c. will have
a disgusting, greasy appearance ; therefore, after
you have thickened your sauce, add to it some
broth, or warm water, in the proportion of two
tablespoonsful to a pint, and set it by the side of
the fire, to raise any fat, &c. that is not tho-
roughly incorporated with the gravy, which you
must carefully remove as it comes to the top.
This is called cleansing, or finishing the sauce.
%* Half an ounce of butter, and a tablespoonful of flour, are
about the proportions for a pint of sauce, to make it as
thick as good cream.
Savoury Thickening. (No. 258.)
Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew-
pan with the meat of half a dozen anchovies,
three eshallots, and four large blades of pounded
mace ; stir together, and by degrees add as much
flour as will make it a stiff paste ; put it into a pot,
for the purpose of heightening the flavour of your
brown sauces.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
Obs. The cook will vary the spices, &c.
according to the taste of those she works for.
Clarified Butter. (No. 259.)
Put the butter in a nice clean stewpan, over a
very clear slow fire, watch it, and when it is
melted, carefully remove the buttermilk, &c.
-which will swim on the top ; let it stand a minute
or two for the impurities to sink to the bottom,
and then lay a tammis in a sieve, and pour the
clear butter through it, into a clean basin, leaving
the sediment at the bottom of the stewpan.
Obs. Butter thus purified, will be as sweet
as any marrow, and is a very useful covering for
all potted meats and fish, and equal to the finest
Lucca oil for frying fish, and many other culinary
purposes.
Burnt Butter. (No. 260.)
Put two ounces of fresh butter into a small fry-
ingpan, and when it becomes a dark brown
colour, add to it a tablespoonfui and a half of
good vinegar, and a little pepper and salt.
Obs. This is used as sauce for boiled fish, or
poached eggs.
Parsley and Butter. (No. 26 1 .)
Wash some parsley very clean, put a tea-
spoonful of salt into a pint of boiling water, and
boil the parsley two or three minutes, drain it on
a sieve, and mince it quite fine. The delicacy
and excellence of this sauce depends upon the
parsley being minced very very fine ; put it into
SAUCES AND GIIAVIES.
a sauce boat, and mix with it by degrees about
half a pint of good melted butter.
Obs. Be careful to pick the parsley off the
stalks before you boil it.
Mock Parsley Sauce. (No. 262.)
If you cannot get any parsley, you may easily
communicate the exact flavour of it to your
sauce, by tying up a quarter of a drachm of parsley
seed in a piece of clean muslin, and boiling it for ten
minutes in five tablespoonsful of water; use this
water to melt your butter with.
Gooseberry Sauce. (No. 263.)
Boil half a pint of green gooseberries for five
minutes, drain them on a hair sieve, and put them
into half a pint of melted butter. Some add
grated ginger.
Chervil and Butter. (No, 264.)
This is the first time this very delicious herb,
which has so long been a favourite with the saga-
cious French cook, has been introduced into
an English book. Its flavour is a strong con-
centration of the combined taste of parsley and
fennel, but inimitably more aromatic and agree-
able than either. I cannot account for its being
so little known in the English kitchen. You may
make most exquisite sauce with it by preparing
it, &c. as we have directed for parsley and
butter. You may enrich it with the juice of half
a lemon, and a tablespoonful of white wine.
Obs. Drs. Lewis and Aitken are most
K 5
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
respectable and well-accredited writers on che-
mistry, &c. and I trust all men who feel " Ves-
prit du corps," will forgive me for saying they
have written also like men of taste on culinary
subjects, as the following quotation from their
Materia Medica^ 8vo. London, 1791, vol. i.
page 319, will testify. See cherefolium or cheri'il.
" It is a salubrious culinary herb, sufficiently
nutritive to the palate and stomach."
Fennel and Butter, for Mackarel,
(No. 265.)
Is prepared in the same manner as we have just
described the parsley and butter.
Obs. For mackarel sauce, some people take
equal parts of fennel and parsley.
Mackarel Roe Sauce. (No. 266,)
Boil the roes of mackarel, (soft roes are best,)
bruise them with a spoon with the yolk of an egg,
beat up with a very little nutmeg, pepper, and salt,
and some fennel and parsley boiled and chopped
very fine, mixed with almost half a pint of thin
melted butter.
Mushroom catsup, walnut pickle, or soy, may
be added at table by those who like them.
Egg Sauce. (No. 26?.)
This agreeable accompaniment to roast poultry,
or salt fish, is made by putting two eggs into boil-
ing water, and boiling them for eight minutes,
when they will be hard ; first cut the whites, then
the yolks, but neither very fine, put them into a
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
sauce-boat, pour to them half a pint of melted but-
ter, and stir together.
Obs. The melted butter for egg sauce must
not be made quite so thick as plain melted
butter.
Pudding Sauce. (No. 268.)
Bruise a stick of cinnamon, (cassia will not do,)
set it over the fire in a saucepan, with just as much
water as will cover it, give it a boil, and then put
in a couple of tablespoonsful of fine lump sugar,
powdered, a quarter of a pint of white wine, and
one bay leaf; boil all up together; strain it
through a sieve, and send it up hot in a sauce-
boat.
Plumb Pudding Sauce. (No. 269.)
A glass of sherry, half a glass of brandy, and
two teaspoonsful of pounded lump sugar, in a
quarter of a pint of melted butter : grate nutmeg
on the top.
Anchovy Sauce. (No. 270.)
Take off the meat of two or three anchovies,
pound them in a mortar with a little bit of butter,
rub them through a double hair sieve, with the back
of a wooden spoon, and stir them into half a pint
of melted butter ; add the juice of half a lemon.
%* Two tcell beaten yolks of eggs are an improvement.
Anchovy Sauce for Roast Meat. (No. 271.)
Foreigners are very fond of this, and make it as
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
in the foregoing receipt, only substituting beef or
veal gravy instead of melted butter, and a tea-
spoonful of vinegar instead of the lemon juice,
frequently using some of their flavoured vinegars,,
tarragon, &c.
Garlick Sauce. (No. 72.)
Pound two cloves of garlick in a marble mortar,
with a piece of fresh butter about as big as a nut-
meg ; rub it through a double hair sieve, and stir
it into half a pint of melted butter, or beef gravy.
,
jfeemon Sauce. (No. 273.)
Pare a lemon, and cut it into slices twice as
thick as a three shilling piece ; divide these into
dice, and put them into a quarter of a pint of
melted butter.
Caper Sauce. (No. 274.)
A tablespoonful of capers, and twoteaspoonsfulof
vinegar ; mince one third of (he capers very fine,
and divide the others in half; put them into a quar-
ter of a pint of melted butter. Remember to stir
them the same way as you did the melted butter,
or it will oil.
Obs. Some boil and chop a few leaves of
pnrsley, and add these to the sauce ; others
squeeze in a quarter of a Seville orange, or half
a lemon ; take care that nothing but the clear juice
goos in.
Keep your caper bottle very closely corked, and
SAUCES AXD GRAVIES,
do not use any of the caper liquor; if the capers
are not well covered with it, they will soon spoil,
and it is an excellent ingredient in hashes, &c.
The Dutch use it as a fish sauce, mixing it with
melted butter.
Mock Caper Sauce. (No. 275.)
Cut some pickled gherkins into small bits,
rather less than capers ; put them into half a pint
of melted butter, with two teaspoonsful of lemon
juice, or nice vinegar, and flavour it with a fe\y
drops of essence of shallots or garlick.
Dutch Sour Sauce, for Fish. (No. 276.)
Beat up the yolks of two eggs, and put them
into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, two
blades of mace, and a tablespoonful of elder vine-
gar, or the same quantity of lemon juice; melt over
a gentle fire, stirring the ingredients together all
the while the same way, and strain it through
a tammis cloth.
Cream Sauce, for Fish. (No. 277.)
Put the meat of two anchovies pounded with a
bit of butter, and rubbed through a sieve, a tea-
spoonful of soy, and two teaspoonsful of mush-
room catsup, into half a pint of good cream, add
a bit of buUer as big as a nutmeg, rolled in flour
to thicken it, and give it a boil up.
Obs. This is a very delicate and delicious
white sauce, and where <>;ood cream can be easily
procured; much preferable to the butter sauces*
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
Oyster Sauce. (No. 278.)
Choose small natives for this purpose; don't
open them till you want them.
Save their liquor, shave them, and put them
into a stewpan over the fire with the beards and
liquor ; as soon as they begin to look plump and
white, take them out one at a time with a fork,
then put to the liquor a spoonful of veal gravy or
milk ; some add six berries of black pepper, a
piece of lemon peel, a blade of mace, and a table-
spoonful of sherry : let this simmer for ten minutes,
then strain it through a fine sieve, let it stand till
cold, then put two ounces of butter into a stew-
pan with a teaspoonful of fine flour, mix your
liquor by degrees with it, put milk or cream, to
make the quantity you wish, give it a boil up,
and put in your oysters ; set them by the side of
the fire to keep hot, but take care they do not boil,
or they will become hard.
Pickled Oyster Sauce. (No. 279.)
Open a hundred fine large oysters into a pan
with all their liquor with them ; wash them clean
with their liquor, one by one ; put the liquor into
a stewpan, give it a boil, then strain it through a
sieve, and let it stand half an hour to settle ; pour
it from the settlings into a stewpan, and put in
half a pint of white wine, the like quantity of
vinegar, a teaspoonful of salt, half an ounce of
cloves and mace, and a quarter of an ounce of
allspice and black pepper bruised; boil up for
five minutes ; then put in your oysters, and give
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
them a boil up for a minute, put them into small
jars, and tie them down as close as possible with
a wet bladder and leather; keep them in a cool
dry place.
When you want oyster sauce, put some of the
oysters, with a spoonful of the pickle, into good
melted butter.
Bottled Oyster Sauce. (No. 280.)
To make half a pint of sauce, put two ounces
of butter into a stewpan, with three drachms of
oysters, two drachms of flour, and half a pint of
new milk ; set it on a slow fire., stir it till it boils,
and season it with salt.
Milton oysters, prepared by a peculiar pro-
cess, which preserves the flavour of the fish in as
delicate perfection as when just opened. If closely
corked, and kept in a dry place, they will remain
good for years.
Made by E. STEVENSON, Cook to Sir SIMON
CLARK, Bart., near East Barnet, Middlesex ;
and sold by the PUBLISHER OF THIS WORK,
and by Messrs. BALLS, 81, New Bond Street.
Obs. This is a most incomparable succedaneum
while oysters are out of season, and in such inland
parts as seldom have any, is an invaluable addition
to the list of fish sauces : it is also equally good
with boiled fowl or rump steak. It is especially
worthy the notice of country housekeepers.
Cockle Sauce. (No. 281.)
Wash a quart of cockles very clean, put them
into a saucepan without any water, cover them
close, and stew gently till they open ; take the
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
fish out of the shells, wash them in the liquor,
strain it, let it stand to settle, and pour the clean
liquor from the settlings into a clean stewpan with
two ounces of butter, mixed with a tablespoonful
of flour; you may put in half a tablespoonful of
anchovy liquor, or mushroom catsup, and season
it with salt, boil up together till your sauce is
thick and smooth.
Muscle Sauce (No. 282.)
Is prepared exactly in the same manner as the
preceding cockle sauce.
Shrimp Sauce. (No. 283.)
Shell a quarter pint of shrimps, pick them
clean, wash them, and put them into half a pint
of good melted butter.
Obs. Some stew the heads and shells of the
shrimps, with or without two blades of bruised
mace, for a quarter of an hour in four tablespoons-
ful of water, and strain off the liquor to melt the
butter with, or add two teaspoonsful of essence of
anchovy to it.
Lobster Sauce. (No. 284.)
Choose a good hen lobster, be sure it is fresh-,
so get a live one if you can, and boil it as in No.
176, pick out the spawn into a mortar, add to it
a quarter of an ounce of butter*, pound it fine,
T\vo or three anchovies are sometimes pounded with the
spawn.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
and rub it through a hair sieve with the back of a
wooden spoon ; cut the meat of the lobster into
small squares, or pull it to pieces with a fork :
break the chine in pieces, and put it into a stew-
pan with the inside of the fish and a pint of water;
let it simmer till it is reduced to about half, (this
will take near an hour,) strain it through a sieve
into another stewpan ; when it is cold, add to it
the spawn you have bruised, an ounce of butter,
and two teaspoonsful of flour; mix it well together
till it boils, then put to it the meat of the lobster;
warm it on the fire again, but do not let it boil, or
you will lose the red colour. Some who are fond
of making this sauce very rich, use strong beef
gravy instead of melted butter, adding catsup,
cavice, lemon pickle, or wine to it.
Obs. Save a little of the inside red coral
spawn, and rub it through a sieve (without but-
ter), it is very ornamental to garnish your fish
with, by sprinkling it over it ; and if the skin of
the breast of your fish is broken, it will be useful
to hide that blemish, which will sometimes hap-
pen to the most careful cook, when there is. a
large dinner to get up, and many other things to
attend to.
Sauce for Lobster, 8$c. (No. 285.)
Bruise the yolks of two hard boiled eggs with
the back of a wooden spoon, add a teaspoonful of
water to them, and rub them quite smooth, mix
them with a teaspoonful of made mustard, two
tablespoonsful of salad oil, and five of vinegar,
and season it with a very little Cayenne pepper
and some salt.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
Obs. To this, elder vinegar, catsup, or
cavice, or anchovy paste, is occasionally added.
Crab Sauce. (No. 286.)
This is prepared in the same way as the former
sauce, but is very seldom sent to table in this
country, lobster sauce being almost universally
preferred, and will be, until John Bull is so raving
mad for variety as to fancy every change must be
charming.
Liver and Parsley Sauce. (No. 287.)
Wash the liver of a fowl or rabbit, and boil it
five minutes in five tablespoonsful of water ; chop
it fine, and bruise it in a small quantity of the
liquor it has boiled in, and with a spoon rub it
through a sieve ; wash about one-third the bulk of
parsley leaves, put them on to boil in a little boil-
ing water, with a teaspoonful of salt in it ; lay it
on a hair sieve to drain, and mince it very fine ;
mix it with the liver, and put it into a quarter
pint of melted butter, and warm it up : do not let
it boil.
Obs. You may add the juice of half a lemon,
or a teaspoonful of vinegar, a tablespoonful of
white wine, and a little beaten mace or nutmeg,
or allspice.
Lemon and Liver Sauce. (No. 288.)
Pare off the rind of a lemon ; or, what is prefer-
able when it can be had, the peel of a Seville
orange, as thin as possible, so as not to cut any of
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
the white with it ; then cut off all the white, and
cut the lemon into slices about as thick as two
three shilling pieces ; pick out the peps, and di-
vide the slices into small dice ; boil the liver of a
fowl or rabbit, pound it, and rub it through a sieve
with a spoon, and mix it, by degrees, with three or
four tablespoonsful of melted butter ; put in the
lemon, a little of the lemon peel minced very fine,
and give them a boil up.
Obs. This is sometimes made more relishing
by pounding half a shallot, and two or three leaves
of tarragon or basil with the liver, and moistening
it with a little red wine.
Celery Sauce, White. (No. 289.)
Pick and wash four heads of nice white cellery ;
cut it into pieces about an inch long ; put it in a
saucepan with a pint of water, a dozen berries of
allspice, a bay leaf, and half a teaspoonful of salt :
let them stew till the celery is tender *; roll an ounce
of butter with a tablespoonful of flour ; add this
to the sauce, and stir it till it boils.
Celery Sauce, Brown. (No. 290.)
Pick and wash the celery very clean, and cut
it into very thin slices ; let it boil gently in a lit-
tle water till it is perfectly tender, then add a
couple of blades of pounded mace, the same quan-
tity of nutmeg, and a little pepper and salt ; let
fc So much depends upon the age of the celery, we cannot
give any precise time for this. Young celery will be enough
in three-quarters of an hour; old celery will sometimes tak
an hour and a half.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
these simmer tog-ether for a few minutes, and add
a piece of butter rolled in flour, and two table-
spoonsful of port wine ; boil up together, and put
in a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, and half
a pint of beef gravy.
Obs. This is much more in the French style
of cookery than the former sauce; some think it
more agreeable. The other is simple and elegant ;
this is very fine and high flavoured.
if you wish for celery sauce when no celery is
to be procured, a quarter of a drachm of celery-
seed will impregnate the sauce with all the flavour
of the vegetable.
Sorrel Sauce. (No. 291.)
Pound sorrel leaves sufficient to get from them
two tablespoonsful of juice ; pass it through a
sieve, and add it to some good melted butter, with
the yolk of two eggs, and a little salt, pepper, and
nutmeg ; warm it together without boiling.
O ' O O
Tomata, or Lore-apple Sauce. (No. 292.)
Have 12 or 15 tomatas very ripe and very red ;
take off the stalk ; cut them in half; squeeze them
just enough to get all the water and seeds out; put
them in a quart stewpan, with two or three
tablespoonsful of beef gravy ; set them on a
slow stove for an hour, or till properly melted ;
then rub them through a tammis into a clean stew-
pan with a little white pepper and salt, and let
them simmer together a few minutes.
^j
To preserve tomatas. Choose them quite ripe ;
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
put them into an earthen jar, and bake them till
they are tender, which will take about two hours;
pulp them through a hair sieve, and to each pound
add a quarter ounce of ground white pepper, the
same of mace, an ounce of minced shallots, half an
ounce of garlic, and an ounce of glaze, or portable
soup ; boil the whole together till every ingredient
is tender ; rub it through a hair sieve, and to each
pound add the juice of three lemons ; boil the
whole together again till it is the thickness of
good cream ; put it into half-pint preserving pots
or bottles ; take care they are closely corked ;
when once opened, the air soon spoils it : it should
be kept in a cool dry place.
Mock Tomato, Sauce. (No. 293.)
Take any quantity of sharp tasted apples, and
reduce them into a pulp as in making apple sauce ;
put them into a mortar with as much turmeric as
will give them the colour of tomatas, and as much
chili vinegar as will give it the same degree of acid
flavour that the tomata has ; add to each quart
a quarter of an ounce of garlic, and half an ounce of
shallots, shred fine ; put all into a well-tinned
saucepan, and mix them well together, and give
them a gentle boil ; when cold, take out the garlic
and shallot, and put the sauce into small stone bot-
tles : your sauce should be of the consistence of a
thick syrup, which may be regulated by the chili
vinegar.
Obs. The only difference between this and
the genuine love-apple sauce, is the substituting
the pulp of apple for the pulp of tomata, and giv-
ing the colouring with turmeric.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
Shallot Sauce. (No. 294.)
Mince four shallots very fine; put them into a
stewpan with a quarter pint of water, two table-
spoonsful of vinegar, and one of white wine, one
quarter teaspoonful of pepper, and a little salt :
stew for a quarter of an hour.
Or,
You may make this sauce more extemporane-
ously, by putting two teaspoonsful of shallot vine-
gar, a tablespoonful of white wine, and a table-
spoonful of mushroom catsup, into half a pint of
melted butter.
Obs. This is an excellent sauce with rump-
steaks, and many are very fond of it with roasted
fowls, chickens, or capons.
Shallot Sauce, for Boiled Mutton. (No. 295.)
Cut four shallots very fine, and put them jnto a
small saucepan with two tablespoonsful of the li-
quor the mutton has boiled in ; let them boil up
for five minutes ; then put a tablespoonful of vine-
gar, one-quarter teaspoonful of pepper, and a little
salt, and a bit of butter, as big as a small walnut,
well rolled in flour; shake all together ; give it a
boil up.
Young Onion Sauce. (No. 296.)
Clean and peel some young onions, cut them in-
to thin slices, and put them into a stewpan with a
4
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
slice of bacon, one-quarter teaspoonful of pepper,
and one-half teaspoonful of salt ; set them over
the fire ; when they begin to heat, moisten them
"with four tablespoonsful of water ; let them stew
for ten minutes ; take out the bacon, squeeze in
half a lemon, and send it up hot.
Onion Sauce. (No. 297.)
Those who like the full flavour of onions, only
cut off the strings and tops, without peeling off any
of the skins ; put them into salt and water, and let
them lie an hour ; wash them, and put them into
a kettle with plenty of water, and boil them till
they are tender ; then take off as many skins as
you please ; pass them through a cullender, and
mix a little melted butter with them.
Onion Sauce. (No. 298.)
The following is a more delicate preparation :
Take eight of the largest and whitest onions, (the
Spanish are the whitest and mildest, but these can
only be had from August to December,) peel
them, and cut them into thin slices, and boil them
in a pint of milk, and three pints of water ; when
they are boiled tender, which will sometimes take
an hour (the quicker they are boiled, the whiter
they will be), drain them well on a hair sieve, and
pass them through a cullender with a wooden
spoon ; put them into a clean saucepan, with an
ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of flour, half a tea-
spoonful of salt, and two tablespoonsful of cream,
or good milk ; mix well, and simmer five minutes.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
Obs. This is the common sauce for boiled
rabbits or ducks : they are laid dry in the dish,
and this sauce is poured over them. There must
be plenty of it; the usual expression signifies as
much, for we say, smother them.
i
Fried Onion Sauce. (No. 299.)
Slice a couple of large onions, and fry them in
butter, turning them often, till they take a good
brown colour ; then pour in a teacupful of broth
or water, with a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup,
and same of table-beer, a few pepper-corns, a little
salt, and a tablespoonful of flour; cover the sauce-
pan close, and let it simmer half an hour, till it is
reduced to the thickness you wish ; press it
through a hair sieve, and put a teaspoonful of
made mustard to it, and stir well together.
Obs. Haifa pint of young, onions, about as big
as nutmegs, peeled and put in whole, and fried with
them, will be an elegant addition to the above.
Sage and Onion Sauce. (No. 300.)
Cut a large onion into small dice, mince an
ounce of sage leaves very fine; put them into a
stewpan with half an ounce of butter ; fry them a
little, but do not let them get any colour ; make
half a pint of thin melted butter, and mix it with
the sage and onions; then put a teacupful of bread
crumbs to the melted butter and herbs; season
with ground black pepper and salt ; mix it well,
and let it boil five minutes.
Obs. This is, in fact, goose stuffing, and a
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
very relishing sauce for green peas on maigre
days.
Portugal Onion Sauce. (No. 301.)
Roast a couple of fine large onions in a cheese-
toaster or Dutch oven till they are somewhat more
than half clone ; peel them, and take off the first
coat ; put them into a stewpnn, with half a pint of
good broth (or that quantity of water, with a
tablespoonful of mushroom catsup), and a table-
spoonful of flour; season it with salt and a few
grains of Cayenne pepper, a glass of port wine,
and the juice of half a lemon ; let all simmer to*
gether till tender enough ; rub them through a
cullender, and mix a little bit of butter with them,
and you will have a most admirable sauce-
Carrier Sauce. (No. 302.)
]Vly ingenious predecessor, Dr. King, in his let-
ter to Dr. Lister (tide "KING'S Art of Cookery")
says : u The following is the true receipt for mak-
ing ' The Carrier Sauce,' which I have from an
ancient manuscript, remaining at the Bull Inn, in
BishopsgateStreet: Take seven spoonsful of spring
water, slice two onions, of moderate size, into a
large saucer, and put in as much salt as you can
hold at thrice betwixt your forefinger and thumb,
iflarge, and serve it up. Probatum est, Hobson,
carrier to the University of Cambridge."
Mint Sauce. (No. 303.)
Wash half a handful of mint, pick the leaves
from the stalks, and mince them very fine ;
L
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
put it into a sauceboat, with a teaspoonful of
moist sugar, and four tablespoonsful of vinegar ;
mix well together.
Obs. This is an inseparable companion to
hot lamb ; we wish to see it also as constantly
coming to table with cold lamb. If green mint
cannot be procured, this sauce may be made with
mint vinegar. See No. 398.
Apple Sauce. (No. 304.)
Pare, core, and slice three good sized baking
apples, put them into a pint saucepan, (cover it
close, because the steam helps to do them,) with
one clove, a bit of cinnamon about as big as a
clove, a roll of lemon-peel carefully pared thin,
without any of the white, one tablespoonful of cold
water, and a teaspoonful of moist sugar ; set the
saucepan near (but not on) a slow fire ; be sure to
put them on a couple of hours before dinner, for
some apples will take an hour's stewing, and others
will be ready to press in a quarter of an hour :
when the apples are done enough, take out the
spice and lemon-peel, and mash the apples with
a wooden spoon.
Mushroom Sauce. (No. 305.)
Pick a pint of mushrooms (the smaller the bet-
ter) very clean, wash them, and put them into a
saucepan with one blade of mace, half a dozen
corns of allspice bruised, and half a bay leaf, a
pint of milk, an ounce of butter, and a tablespoon-
ful of flour j set them over a gentle fire, and stu
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
them frequently till they boil ; let them boil tea
minutes, and leave them near the fire, to keep hot,
till wanted.
Mushroom Sauce, Brown* (No. 306.)
Clean half a pint of small mushrooms, put them
into half a pint of beef gravy, No. 186; thicken
with flour and butter ; set them by the fire to stew-
gently for half an hour ; take off the scum as it
rises ; squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and send
it up.
Italian Sauce, with Mushrooms. (No. 307.)
Cut off the stalks, peel off the skin, scrape away
the gills, and wash very clean two tablespoonsful of
small white mushrooms ; chop them fine, and throw
them into a little lemon juice to keep them white ;
chop your mushrooms very fine, and as quick as pos-
sible, or they will turn black, and spoil the colour
of your sauce; to prevent which, we recommend
the lemon juice ; put them into a clean saucepan,
with half a pint of sauce tournay, a teaspoonful of
eschallots minced fine (and washed and dried in
the corner of a clean towel) ; season with nutmeg,
pepper, and salt; reduce the sauce a little, and
send it up.
Italian Ramolade. (No. 308.)
This is a cold sauce, made without any heating,
and is very fashionable in Italy, for fish which are
to be eat cold, or any other cold dish. Squeeze
a large lemon, and half a China orange; add to
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
this half a teaspoonful of basket salt, a little pep-
per, and as much oil as there is of the other liquor ;
shred some parsley very fine, wash and bone a
couple of anchovies ; mix these together, and put
them into the liquor ; then cut very small two tea-
spoonsful of capers, put them in, stir all well to-
gether, and send it to table.
Obs. We want a cold sauce of this kind, and
this is an exceeding good one for many things
with cold fowl, turkey, or lamb these are dry and
insipid with salt alone, and our English cookery
does not afford any method of eating them other-
wise, without heating them up, by which they lose
a great deal of their sweetness. This sauce is
not too sharp, for the oil softens the vinegar ;
and it is very finely relished with a mixed fla-
vour by the other ingredients.
Italian Ramolade, Hot. (No. 309.)
Chop parsley very fine, an equal quantity of
capers, shred a couple of anchovies, peel and
shave very thin two shallots, and a clove of gar-
lick ; all these (being cut and prepared separately)
must be mixed together : set on a stewpan with a
quarter pint of gravy, add to it tw r o tablespoonsful
of oil, a spoonful of mustard, and the juice of a
large lemon ; when all this is hot together, put in
the ingredients, with some pepper, and a very lit-
tle salt, and some leaves of sweet herbs, picked
from the stalks, and minced fine; stir all well to-
gether, and five minutes over a good fire will
do it.
Obs. This is copied from the same school as the
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
last sauce ; it is sent up in a sauce-boat, with boil-
ed fowls, veal, and many dishes of the boiled kind.
Poor Mans Sauce. (No. 310.)
Pick a handful of parsley leaves from the stalks,
mince them very fine, strew over a little salt, shred
fine Haifa dozen young onions; add these to the
parsley, and put them into a sauce-boat, with three
tablespoonsful of oil, and five of vinegar; add
some ground black pepper ; stir all together, and
send it up.
Obs. This sauce is in much esteem in France,
where the people of taste, weary of so many rich
dishes, to obtain the charm of variety, occasionally
order the fare of the peasant.
" The rich, tir'd with continual feasts,
" For change become their next poor tenant's gnests ;
" Drink hearty draughts of ale from plain brown bowls,
" And snatch the homely rasher from the coals."
DRYDEN'S Prologue to " All for Love"
Garlick Gravy. (No. 311.)
Slice a pound and a half of veal or beef, pepper
and salt it, and lay it in a stewpan with a couple
of carrots split, and three turnips, and four cloves
ofgarlick sliced, and a large spoonful of water ;
set the slew pan over a gentle fire in a stove, arid
watch when the meat begins to stick to the pan ;
when it does so, turn it, and let it be all very well
browned, but take care it is not at all burnt; pour
in a pint and a half of gravy, and put in a bunch
of sweet herbs, four blades of mace, and a couple
L3
SAUCES AXD GRAVIES.
of cloves bruised, and slice in a lemon ; set it on
again, and let it simmer very gently for half an
lionr longer; throw in a little flour from time to
time, till the gravy is as thick as you wish ; then
lake off the fat, strain the gravy from the ingredi-
ents by pouring it through a napkin, straining and
pressing it very hard.
Obs. Tiiis was the secret of the old Spaniard
who kept the house of that name on Haoipstead-
heath, and with this he acquired his fame for fla-
vouring his olios and ragouts, &c. : for those who
love garlick, tins is an extremely rich and line
flavoured sauce.
Mr. ^Michael Kelly's * Sauces for Boiled
Cay head or Coichccl.
Garlick vinegar a tablespoonful, of mustard,
brown sugar, white pepper, a teaspoonful each ;
stirred into half a pint of oiled melted butter.
Jlfr. Kelly s Sauce Piquant c.
Pou:ul a tablespoonful of capers, and one of
minced parsley, as tine as possible ; then add the
yolks of three hard eggs, rub them well together
with a tablespoonful of mustard, bone six anchovies,
and pound them ; rub through a hair sieve, and
mix with two tablespoonsful of oil, one of vinegar,
one of shallot ditto ; rub all these well together in
a mortar, till thoroughly incorporated, and then
stir them into half a pint of good gravy or melted
butter.
* Composer and Director of the Music at the Theatre Royal,
Drury-lane.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
Ravigotte Sauce. (No. 312.)
Pick from the stalks and shred very fine, some
tarragon and chervil, or some parsley, balm, and
thyme ; cut two large onions into thin slices,
chop these fine, and put all into a marble mortar,
and pound it thoroughly ; add some pepper and
salt, some rocambole, and two blades of pounded
mace ; beat all these well together, and mix some
gravy with tliem by degrees, till the whole is a
mash about the thickness of batter ; put it into a
stew pan and boil it up, and after that strain it off,
squeezing it well in the tamrny : add to it half a
glass of white wine, and a tablespoonful of oil;
beat it well up, and serve up in a sauceboat. It
is eaten with roast veal, and most other roasts.
Burnet Sauce. (No. 313.)
Throw some fresh nnd tender leaves of Burnet into
boiling water; put into the same water some mint,
parsley, and half a dozen young onions: boil all
together for a couple of minutes; then throw
them into a pan of cold water, drain them dry, by
squeezing them in a cloth, and then mince them
as fine as possible. Set on a stewpan, with half a
pint of veal gravy, put in a rocambole, and
shred in an anchovy, squeeze in half a lemon,
add pepper and salt, and two large spoonsful of
fine oil : when it is all heated together, throw in
the chopped herbs, let it boil up two or three
times, and serve it up hot with any thing roasted.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
Obs. This is another of the sauces the Italians
call rairgottes, and one of the best of that sort, the
JBurnet giving it a very agreeable flavour.
Tarragon Sauce. (No. 314.)
Pick and wash a handful of tarragon leaves,
put them into a saucepan with half a pint of
water ; let them stew till they are tender ; rub
them through a sieve ; take three tablespoonsful
of the water they boiled in, an ounce of butter,
and two teaspoonsfui of flour ; warm these to-
gether, and arid two tablespoonsful of sherry, or
Madeira, one of tarragon vinegar, or the juice of
half a lemon, and a teaspoonful of sugar.
Herb Sauce Piquant e. (No. 315.)
Mince a thin slice of a clove of garlick with
some parsley, tarragon, chervil, burnet, and basil,
each in proportion to their flavours : when well
washed and squeezed dry, let it simmer in a little
water, without boiling ; press through a sieve,
add a bit of butter, flour, pepper, and salt; boil
it to a good consistence, and add lemon juice to
make it relishing and smart tasted.
Truffle Sauce. (No. 316.)
Make a quart of beef gravy, No. 186, wash and
peel a dozen truffles, put the peels into the gravy,
let it boil half an hour ; then strain it into a clean
saucepan ; then put in your truffles, let them boil
half an hour longer, and serve up.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
Truffles may almost always be procured at (he
respectable oil shops in London, either preserved
in fat, or dried.
Obs. This is a sauce the French eat frequently
with butcher's meat: they make sauces of mush-
' /
rooms and morells in the same manner, and
they are very fine. In this respect, they proceed
upon much better principles than we in our cook-
ery, who generally have butter for the foundation
of our sauces.
Fried Parsley. (No. 3 1 7.)
Let it be well picked and washed, put it into a
cloth, and swing it backwards and forwards till it
is perfectly dry ; put it into a pan of hot fat, fry
it quick, and have a slice ready to take it out the
moment it is crisp, (if you let it stay too long, it
will look black,) put it on a sieve or coarse cloth
before the fire to drain.
Crisp Parsley. (No. 3 J 8.)
Pick and wash a handful of young parsley, and
shake it in a dry cloth to drain the water from it ;
spread it on a sheet of clean paper, and lay it in
the Dutch oven before the fire, and lay some very
little bits of butter on it ; turn it frequently until it
is quite crisp. This is a much more easy and
elegant way of preparing it, than the usual way
of frying it, which is not seldom ill done.
Obs. It is a very pretty garnish for lamb
chops, &c.
L 5
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
Fried Bread Sippets. (No. 319.)
Cut a slice rather more than a quarter of an
inch thick, divide it with a sharp kitchen knife
into pieces two inches square ; shape these into
triangles, or crosses : put a tablcspoonful of clean
dripping into an iron fryingpan ; when it is
melted, put in the sippets, and fry them a light
brown ; take them up with a fish-slice, and drain
them on a hair sieve, that they may not be greasy.
Obs. These are a pretty garnish, and very
relishing accompaniment, and will be an improve-
ment to the flavour of the finest made dishes :
they may also be sent up with peas and other
soups ; but when intended for soups, they should
be cut in bits from half to three quarters of an
inch square.
Fried Bread Crumbs. (No. 320.)
Rub a pint of crumbs of bread (that has been
baked three days) through a wire sieve, or fine
cullender ; or you may rub them in a cloth till
they are as small and fine as if they had been
grated ; put them into a stewpan with half an
ounce of butter, place it over a moderate fire, and
stir them about with a wooden spoon till they
are the colour of a guinea ; pour them into a
sieve, and let them stand ten minutes to drain.
Obs. These crumbs are sent up with roasted
sweetbreads, or larks, pheasants, partridges, wood-
cocks, and grouse, or moor game, especially if
they have been kept long enough.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
Bread Sauce. (No. 32 1.)
Take half a pint of milk, put it on to boil, "with
an onion in it, and two blades of mace, and a
dozen corns of black pepper tied up in a muslin
bag ; when it has boiled a quarter of an hour,
strain the milk, put it into a saucepan with two
tablespoonsful of fine bread crumbs, (stale bread
is best,) that have been rubbed through a cullen-
der, or wire sieve, boil ten minutes in an open
saucepan, taking care they do not burn.
Obs. You may rub the bread in a clean
cloth, till the crumbs are as fine as if they had
been grated, or rubbed through a cullender.
Plain Browning (No. 322.)
Is a very convenient article in the kitchen, to
add to those soups or sauces where it is supposed
the deep brown of its complexion denotes the
strength and savouriness of the composition,
and is a very good substitute for what is called
" India, or Japan soy." Put half a pound of moist
sugar and a tablespoonful of water into a clean
iron saucepan, set it over a slow fire, and keep
stirring it with a wooden spoon till the sugar is
burnt to a dark brown colour ; then add a quarter
of a pint more water, let it boil up, take off the
scum, and strain the liquor into bottles, which must
be well stopped : if you have not any of this by
you, and you wish to darken the colour of your
sauces, pound a teaspoonful of lump sugar, and put
into a large iron spoon, with as much water as
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
will dissolve it; hold it over a quick fire till it
becomes a very dark brown ; mix it with your
soup, &c., while it is hot.
Obs. The above are merely colouring mat-
ters; most of the preparations under this title are
a medley of burnt butter, spices, catsup, wine, &c.,
but we recommend the rational epicure to be con-
tent with the natural colour of soups and sauces,
which to a well educated palate are much more
agreeable without any of these empyreumatic ad-
ditions.
Greening. (No. 323.)
Pound a handful of spinnage in a mortar, and
squeeze the juice from it.
Red, (No. 324.)
With the juice of beet root or cochineal ; for
Yellow, (No. 325,)
The yolks of eggs, or saffron steeped and
squeezed.
Gravy for Roast Meat. (No. 326.)
Most joints will afford sufficient trimmings,
&c. to make half a pint of plain gravy, for those
that do not.
W hen your meat is in the dish you intend to
send it up on, pierce the interior part of the joint
with a sharp skewer, and mix half a teaspoonful
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
of salt with a quarter pint of boiling water; pour
part of it on the under side of the meat, and the
rest through the hole the spit came out of: be
sure not to pour it over the top, or any part of the
meat that will be seen, as it washes off the froth,
and will spoil the look of the meat. If any gravy
comes down in the dish, the cook will take care
of it for the hash, if she is a good housewife.
Obs Some culinary professors, who think
nothing can be excellent that is not extravagant,
call this " Scots gravy," not, I believe, intending
it, as it certainly is, a compliment to the laud-
able and rational frugality of that intelligent and
sober-minded people.
Gravy for Boiled Meat (No. 327.)
May be made from some parings and trimmings
as for the roast meat, or pour from a quarter to
half a pint of the liquor the meat was boiled in,
into the dish with it, and pierce the inferior part
of the joint with a sharp skewer.
JFow Wow Sauce, for Bouilli Beef.
(No. 328.)
Chop some parsley leaves very finely, quarter
two or three pickled cucumbers, and divide them
into small squares ; put them into a saucepan with
a bit of butter as big as an egg, a tablespoonful of
flour, and almost half a pint of the broth the beef
was boiled in ; add a tablespoonful of vinegar,
and the like quantity of mushroom catsup, two
of good table beer, and a teaspobnful of made
SAUCES AND GRAVIE3.
mustard ; let it simmer together till it is as thick
as you wish it ; pour it over the bouilli, or send
it up in a sauce-tureen.
Obs- If vou like it more relishing, add to the
* ^^ t
above two tea spoonsful of capers, or a minced
shallot, or one or two (oaspoonsful of shallot vine-
gar, or basil or elder vinegar ; or strew over the
meat minced capers, walnuts, red cabbage, or
pickled cucumbers.
To make Gravy.
As the object in making gravy is to completely
extract the nutritious succulence of the meat, it is
necessary that the meat should be well beaten, to
comminute the containing vessels ; and scored, to
augment the surface to the action of the water.
Take a pound of lean beef, beat it well with a
rolling pin, score it in all directions, add pepper
and salt, some scraped carrot, sliced onion or
shallot, and allspice; put a small piece of but-
ter at the bottom of the saucepan, and keep it
over a very gentle fire for half an hour, when
about a quarter pint of rich and intrinsic gravy
will be obtained ; add to the remaining meat as
much water as will cover it, a small quantity of
isinglass, and a piece of bread gradually toasted
very brown ; let this gently simmer for an hour,
or till more than half is evaporated ; strain it, and
add it to the former. A. C. Junr.
Beef Gravy Sauce. (No. 329.)
Cut a pound of nice juicy gravy beef into thin
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
slices, and about an ounce of bacon, or ham, or
fresh butter ; lay them at the bottom of a two quart
ste \vpan, with one blade of mace tied up in a
nosegay of a small sprig of sweet marjoram, the
same of winter savory or lemon-thyme and parsley,
a roliof lemon-peel, two cloves stuck into a middling
sized onion, a dozen berries of allspice, and half
a dozen of black pepper ; put to this three table-
spoonsful of water, cover it, and set it on a slow
fire till the liquor is all boiled away, and the meat
has got very well browned, but take care it is
not at all burnt : the time this will take depends
so much on the state of the fire, the best way to
make sure of your sauce is, when it has been boil-
ing a few minutes, take oft' the cover and watch
it; when the meat has got a nice brown, pour in
a quart of boiling water ; when it boils, catch
the scum, and put in a crust of bread toasted very
brown, and let it stew very gently for an hour
and a half: take a spoonful of thickening, made
as per receipt, No. 257, stir it into it by degrees,
and let it simmer gently for a quarter of an hour
longer, strain it through a fine hair sieve, or tammis
cloth, put in atablespoonful of mushroom catsup, a
saltspoonful of salt, and half a one of pepper. This
will be a rich, high brown sauce for fish, fowl,
or ragout.
Obs. If you wish to make it still more relish-
ing, especially if it is to be eaten with game, or
wild water-fowl; you may add a tablespoonful of
port wine, the juice of half a lemon, and a
roll of the rind cut thin, and if you think it not
strong enough, use double the quantity of meat
and bacon.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
Ragout Sauce, or strong Beef' Gravy with
Mushrooms. (No. 330.)
Choose a dozen very large flaps, the biggest
full opened mushrooms that you can get, cut out
the stalks, peel off the skin, and scrape away the
gills, then strew over them a little pepper and salt.
Cut three pounds of steaks, half an inch thick,
from a good part of the beef, where there is little
fat; the leg of mutton, or neck piece, is very pro-
per for tins purpose. Beat the steaks well, and
season them moderately with a little salt. Cover
the bottom of a gallon stewpan with a couple of
slices of fat bacon ; upon these lay four or five of the
mushrooms, then lay in some of the beef steaks,
upon these the rest of the mushrooms, and the
rest of the beef steaks over them. Cut to pieces
two onions and four carrots, half a dozen cloves,
four blades of mace, a dozen and a half berries of
black pepper, and a dozen of allspice, as much
grated nutmeg as will lay on a sixpence, and a
faggot of thyme, knotted marjoram, winter sa-
vory, and parsley, whose stems when tied up
will be as big as two fingers : cover the stewpan,
and set it over a gentle fire, and watch how the
gravy comes ; w hen there is a good deal, set it on
a better fire, and let it boil away till the meat 19
nearly dry, and it begins to stick to the pan ; then
uncover it, stir all about, and put the vegetables
and herbs undermost, that they may get brown,
but take care they are not burned: then pour in
tl/ree pints of boiling water, and put it on a slow
fire to simmer gently for an hour and a half.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
Take a large tablespoonful of thickening-, made as
per receipt, No. 257, arid stir it into it by degrees,
and let it simmer gently a quarter of an hour
longer ; strain through a tammis sieve or cloth.
Obs This is the very " ne plus ultra" of
rich gravy for sauces, ragouts, and made dishes, and
far exceeds the most costly gravies of the French,
into which they put partridges, woodcocks, &c.
This quintessence of mushrooms and beef is m-
comparably more savoury and delicious.
Onion Gravy. (No. 331.)
Peel and slice two or three large onions, put
them into a quart stewpan, with a bit of butter
about as big as a walnut, or a couple of table-
spoonsful of water ; set it on a slow fire, and turn
the onions about till they are browned ; then add
half a pint of good broth, and boil them till they
are quite tender ; strain the broth from them,
and mince them very fine ; thicken your sauce
with flour and butter, and season it with pepper
and salt ; put the onion into it, and simmer all
together for five minutes.
Obs. If you have no broth, put in half a pint
of water, and just before you give it the last boil
up, add to it a large tablespoonful of mushroom
catsup, and, if you like, the same quantity of port
wine, or good ale.
Maigre Gravy. (No. 332.)
\
Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a large
stewpan, set it over a brisk fire ; when it has done
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
talking, dredge in some flour, stir it about till it is
a fine yellow colour, and then put in three or
four onions, two parsnips, or three carrots cut into
thin slices ; turn them with a wooden spoon till
they take a good brown colour ; put in a tea-
spoonful of flour, stir well together, and add a
pint and a half of boiling water, and a crust of
bread toasted brown ; season it with a shallot
minced fine, three blades of pounded mace, two
drachms of soup-herb powder, and some pepper
and salt ; let it stew two hours over a slow fire,
and press it through atammis sieve : you may add
port wine, mushroom and oyster catsup, or lemon
pickle.
Fish Gravy. (No. 333.)
Skin and clean a pound of good eels or four floun-
ders, cut them to pieces, and put them into a
saucepan with a pint and a half of water ; let them
boil a little ; put in two blades of mace, ten corns
of whole pepper, a bundle of sweet herbs, a piece of
bread toasted brown, and a roll of lemon- peel ; boil
all together till il is very rich ; then put into another
saucepan a piece of butter about as big as an
egg; melt it, dredge in some flour, toss it about
till it is brown, strain the gravy to it, and mix all
well together.
Gravy Sauce for Poultry^ without Meat.
(No. 334.)
Take the neck, legs, liver and gizzard, cut
them small, and boil them in a pint of water, with
a small piece of bread toasted brown, twelve ber-
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
ries of black, and the same of Jamaica pepper, a
sprig of lemon-thyme and sweet marjoram, or sa-
vory, and two leaves of basil, or half a bay leaf;
(the bones of any kind of roast meat broken to
pieces, and stewed with it, are a great improve-
ment ; as will also be the cuttings or trimmings
of any joint you may have in the house ;) boil
slowly till your gravy is reduced nearly half;
then strain it into a clean stewpan, bruise <he
liver well, and rub it through a sieve with a wooden
spoon, thicken it with a little bit of butter rolled
in flour, and add a teaspoonful of browning, and
a tablespoonful of red wine, and the same of any
kind of catsup you think proper.
Obs. If you have no cuttings or trimmings of
meat, an anchovy will sometimes be a good sub-
stitute.
Mock Gravy Sauce. (No. 335.)
Haifa pint of water, and half as much good
small beer, or two tablespoonsful of ale that is
neither bitter nor stale, and a bundle of sweet
herbs ; slice an onion, a small piece of thin lemon-
peel, two cloves, a blade of mace, six berries of
allspice, and the same of black pepper bruised,
and a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, and the
same quantity of port wine. Put a bit of butter
about as big as a walnut into a saucepan ; when
it is melted, put in a sliced onion, shake in a little
flour, stir it \vell with a wooden spoon till the
froth sinks, and it has caught a little brown ; then
by degrees stir in the above ingredients, and let it
stew for half an hour, and strain it well, and
-when cold take off the fat.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
Obs. Mushroom catsup supplies the place of
meat better than any thing : if you have not this,
beer, wine, spices, and the aromatic roots and
herbs variously combined, and thickened with
flour and butter, are the usual substitutes for
meat; but those families who are frequently in
want ofgravy sauces, (without plenty of which, no
cook can support the credit of her kitchen,) should
keep by them a stock of portable soup or glaze:
by the help of this, and a portion of the above
materials, or a tablespoonful of " double relish,"
or " sauce superlative," No. 429, a boat of the best
gravy may be produced in a few minutes.
Soup-Herb, and soon made Savoury Sauce.
(No. 336.)
Put a quarter of an ounce of butter into a stew-
pan; as soon as it is warm, mix with it half an
ounce of flour, and half a drachm of ZEST: stir
thoroughly together for a few minutes, and pour
in by degrees almost half a pint of boiling water,
and a large spoonful of port wine; let it boil up
for five minutes, stirring it all the time; season it
with salt, and strain it through a fine sieve, and
you will have a charming relish for either roast or
boiled poultry or game, chops, steaks, &c.
V* ZEST is sold by the publisher of this work,
and by Messrs. BALL, No. 81, New Bond Street ;
and at Mr. Butler's herb shop, opposite Henrietta
Street, Covent Garden.
Gravy Sauce 9 for Game. (No. 337.)
Add two teaspoonsful of port wine, and the
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
juice of half a lemon to half a pint of the gravy
sauce for poultry, No 329.
Orange Gravy Sauce, for Wild Ducks.
(No. 338.)
Set on a saucepan with half a pint of veal
gravy, No. 192, half a dozen leaves of basil, and
an onion; let it boil up two or three times, and
strain it off. Put to the clear gravy the juice of
a very fine Seville orange, or two lemons, half a
teaspoonful of salt, the same of pepper, and a
glass of red wine ; send it up hot.
Obs. This is an excellent sauce for widgeon,
teal, and all kinds of wild water-fowl. The com-
mon way of gashing the breast, and squeezing in
an orange, cools and hardens the flesh, and com-
pels every one to eat duck that way : those
who have the true taste for wild-fowl eat them
very little done, and without any sauce. Gra-
vies should always be sent up in a boat ; they
keep hot longer, and it leaves it to the choice of
the company to partake of it or not, as they like;
and for those who choose it, there is no way of
having the flavour of the pepper and o.range so
well, and with so little hurt to the flesh of the
fowl.
Woodcock Sauce. (No. 339.)
When the woodcocks are roasted take out the
guts and livers, bruise them to a mash with a
spoon, press it through your sieve, and sprinkle
on them a little pepper and suit, add two large
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
spoonsful of ^ood gravy, and a small piece of but-
ter rolled in flour ; boil up together.
Pour it into a hot dish, cut up the woodcocks
in it, and send them to table.
Snipe Sauce. (No. 340.)
The snipe in a great measure owes its sauce to
itself, and there is a way of making it very fine.
It is usual to roast these birds without drawing ;
when they are done enough take them off the spit,
and take out the entrails and the liver, chop them
upon a trencher: set on a small saucepan, with
some veal gravy and red wine, seasoned with a
little pepper and salt ; put in the entrails and the
liver, mash them well together, and squeeze in
the juice of an orange ; thicken your sauce with
a little flour.
Obs. There are two ways of using this sauce ;
either pour it into a dish, and lay in the snipes
over it, or make it into a dish with them in the fol-
lowing manner ; cut the birds to pieces, put them
into the sauce when it is well thickened, pour the
whole into a dish, and squeeze in the juice of half
a lemon.
Bonne Bouche, for Goose or Duck.
(No. 341.)
Mix two teaspoonsful of made mustard, a salt-
spoonful of salt, and a few grains of Cayenne, in
two tablespoonsful of port wine ; pour it into the
goose by a slit in the apron, just before serving
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
up* ; or, as all the company may not like it, send
it up in a boat, with a quarter of a pint of melted
butter, and a tablespoonfui of catsup or cavice.
Savoury Sauce for Roast Pork or Geese, c.
(No. 342.)
Mince a large onion very fine, put half an ounce
of butter into a pint stewpan, fry it, turning it often
with a wooden spoon, till it takes a light brown
colour, then add two tablespoonsful of thickening,
No. 257, a tablespoonfui of mushroom catsup,
the same of port wine, and half a pint of warm
water, a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, the
same of salt ; let them boil half an hour, then add
a small teaspoonful of mustard, and the juice of
half a lemon, or one or two teaspoonsful of
vinegar.
Obs. The French call this sauce " Robert,"
(the name of the cook who invented it,) and are
very fond of it with many things.
Turtle Sauce. (No. 343.)
Put into your stewpan a pint of beef or veal
cullis, No. 189, or No. 192, add a wineglass of
Madeira, the juice of half a lemon, and the peel
of a quarter of a lemon, a few leaves of basil, half
a bay leaf, and a few grains of Cayenne pepper ;
* Thus far the above is -from Dr. Hunter's " Culina," who
says it is a secret worth knowing : we agree with him, and so
teil it here, with a little addition, which we think renders it a
still more gratifying communication.
SAUCES AND GRAVlEg.
let them simmer together for ten minutes : you
may introduce a dozen turtle forcemeat bails ; see
Receipt, No. 380, &c.
Obs. This is a delicious sauce for stewed veal,
or veal cutlets, or any dish you dress turtle
fashion, which itself owes all its estimation to the
sauce that is made for it ; without which, it would
be as insipid as any other fish is without sauce.
i
Wine Sauce for Venison. (No. 344.)
A quarter of a pint of claret, or port wine, half
the quantity of water, and two tablespoonsful of
sugar ; let it once boil up for the sugar to melt,
and send up in a sauce boat.
Obs> This will do equally well for a hare.
Vinegar Sauce for Venison. (No. 345.)
Put into a silver, or very clean and well tinned
saucepan, half a pint of the best white-wine vine-
gar, and a quarter of a pound of the finest loaf-
sugar; set it over the fire, and. let it simmer
gently ; skim it carefully, and pour it through a
flannel jelly bag, and send it up in a basin.
Obs. Some people like this better than the,
tzne sauces-
Sweet Sauce for Venison. (No. 346.)
Put some currant jelly into a stewpan ; when it
is melted, pour it into a sauce-boat.
Obs, Many add port wine.
SAtJCES AND GRAVIES.
Mutton Gravy for Venison. (No. 347.)
The best gravy for venison, is that made of the
trimmings of the joint: if (his is all used, and
you have not trimmings enough, cut a scrag of
mutton in pieces, and fry it a little brown in an
iron fryingpan ; put it into a clean stew pan, with,
a quart of boiling water, cover it close, and let it
simmer gently for an hour, then uncover yout
stewpan, let it reduce to a pint, drain it
through a hair sieve, take the fat off, and send it
up in a boat. It is only to be seasoned with salt,
that it may not overpower the natural flavour of
the meat.
Curry Sauce (No. 348.)
Is made by stirring a sufficient quantity of
curry powder into gravy, or melted butter. The
composition of curry powder varies so much,
we cannot give any specific receipt as to the
quantity. The cook must add it by degrees,
tasting as she proceeds, and taking care not to put
in too much.
Soup-herb and Savoury Powder, or Double,
Relish Sauce, (No. 34^.)
Is made in the same way with the powder,
No. 385.
Ham Sauce for Poultry. (No. 350,)
Chop the legs and feet of a roast or boiled fowl,
and cut three or four thin slices of ham or bacon,
M
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
bruise them to break the fibres, and make (hem part
with their juice; put them into a stewpan, and
let them sweat over a slow fire, strew over them
some flour, and keep stirring- them, moisten them
with half a pint of water and a tablespooriful of
good small beer ; season it with twelve berries of
Jamaica, and the same of black pepper, and some
sweet herbs ; let it simmer gently : if not thick
enough, add a bit of butter and some flour : let it
warm together, and strain it.
Essence of Ham. (No. 35 1 .)
Boil a ham in the usual way ; when it is done
enough, run an iron skewer through it in several
places ; the gravy that comes from it is the " true
essence of ham:" put it, while hot, into jelly
glasses ; the fat that runs out with the gravy will
cover the top, and preserve it for six months.
The ham will still do for a cold relish, or for
potting.
Obs. This is certainly the very quintessence
of ham, but so expensive, it is only attainable by
gourmands of the first magnitude. The following
preparation will supply its place at a moderate
cost.
Ham Sauce. (No. 352.)
You must have a fine and well flavoured
ham, or the sauce will be good for nothing.
Take care to preserve the gravy that runs
from the ham when it is cut at table; and
when the ham is pretty well eaten down, so that
it cannot appear again at table^ nor any handsome
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
slices be cut from it, pick all the meat clear from
the bone, (do not put in any of the rusty or de-
cayed parts,) beat it well with a rolling pin, that
it may be broken in every part ; put this mash
into a saucepan, with a slice of fat bacon at the
bottom, and some carrot and an onion cut into
slices, and pour in two or three tablespoonsful of
water; set it over a slow fire for about ten minutes;
stir it about till it sticks to the bottom of the stew-
pan ; then dredge in a little flour, and keep stir-
ring it about for some time, for it will more and
more stick to the bottom ; after some time, add to
it its own gravy that you have saved, and pour
in half a pint of gravy, (or water and a tablespoon-
ful of catsup, if you have no gravy,) and add a
small sprig of lemon-thyme, sweet marjoram, and
winter-savory, two leaves of sweet basil, and a
dozen corns of black pepper ; cover up, and let it
stew very gently, over a very slow fire, for about
forty minutes ; strain off the gravy through a fine
sieve ; skim it well ; clear it with the white of an
egg, give it a boil up, strain through a tammis,
and when cold bottle it for use.
Obs. This ham sauce is made with very
moderate expense, and is equal to the most extra-
vagant essences of ham : though thus easily and
cheaply obtained, it is a very rich article of the
sauce kind, and will be found very convenient to
heighten the flavour of ragouts, gravies, &c., and
for veal, capons, &c.
Minced Ham Sauce, for Eggs or Peas.
(No. 353<)
Two or three slices of boiled ham, minced very
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
fine, wifh a gherkin, and a morsel of onion, a
little parsley, pepper, and nutmeg ; stew all
together for a quarter of an hour : when it is time
<o send it up, let your sauce be half boiling, and
pour it over the eggs or peas.
Sauce for J^cal Cutlets. (Xo. 3.54.)
"When you have fried the cutlets, take them
v *
out, and put intq the pan four tablespoonsful of
water, a few sweet herbs, a little onion, or nut-
meg, and a little lemon-peel shred fine ; thicken it
with a bit of butter, (as big as a walnut,) rolled in
flour, add a tablespoonful of Ball's cavice, or lemon
pickle, and pour it into the dish of cutlets.
Grill Sauce. (No.
To half a pint of gravy add half an ounce of
fresh butter, and a tablespoonful of flour, a large
tablespoonful of mushroom or walnut catsup, two
teaspoonsful of lemon juice, the same of made
mustard, one of salt, half a one of black pepper,
a small bit of the rind of a lemon cut very thin, a
teaspoonful of the essence of anchovies, and one of
shalot vinegar, or a very small piece of minced
shalot ; simmer together for ten minutes, and
strain it ; pour a little of it over the grill, and
send up the rest in a sauce tureen.
Obs. This is a most delicious relish for devil-
led chicken, broiled fowl, pigeon, &c.
Sauce for Rump Steaks, or Mutton Chops.
(No. 356.)
Take the meat out of the fryingparr, and for a
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
pound of meat put in a quarter of a pint of
boiling water, two teaspoonsful of flour, and n
tahlespoonful of mushroom or walnut catsup, let it
boil together a few minutes, and pour it to the
steaks.
Obs. To the above is sometimes added a sliced
onion, or a minced eshallot, with a tablespoonful
of port wine: to these some add a pickled cucum-
ber or walnut, sliced thin.
Aspic, or Savoury Jdly for Cold Meat,
(No. 357.)
Spread some slices of lean veal and ham at tlie
bottom of a stewpan, with a carrot, a bundle of
sweet herbs, and a couple of onions ; cover it, and
let it sweat on a slow fire till it is as deep a brown
as you would have it, then pour in a quart of
broth or water; if it is water, it must be more
reduced than if it is broth ; set it on to boil; skim
it well, and put in half a dozen corns of black
pepper, two blades of mace, two drachms of
isinglass, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt ;
let it simmer slowly on a gentle fire for two
hours ; skim the fat off, and strain it through a
tumrnis cloth ; when it is got cool, pat to it the
whites or shells of two eggs beat well together;
put it in a stewpan, and with a whisk stir it
quick till it boils; let it simmer on the side of the
lire for ten minutes, and then run it several times
through a tammis cloth, or jelly bag, as you do
other jellies, till it is perfectly clear and bright ;
pour it over your meat or fowls in the dish you send
them up on : it is a very prepossessing varnish j
or cut it in bits, and garnish them with it.
M 3
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
. This may be flavoured Witt elder or
/
la r raff on vinegar.
o C?
Russian Sauce for Cold Meat. (No. 358.)
Two table spoonsful of grated horseradish, two
teaspoonsful of made mustard, one teaspoonful of
salt, one teaspoonful of powdered lump sugar,
distilled vinegar as much as will cover the in-
gredients.
Qb$. A most excellent sauce for cold meat,
and, added to melted butter, makes a very good
fish sauce. Grate or scrape the horseradish as
fine as possible.
Sauce for Cold Meat, Poultry, c.
(No. S.59-)
Wash, bone, and pound an anchovy in a mar*
ble or wedge wood mortar, with the yolks of two
eggs that have been boiled hard ; add to it by de-
grees three tablespoonsful of vinegar, one tea-
spoonful of made mustard, two of shallot wine, or
basil vinegar ; when these ingredients are tlio-^
roughly mixed, add two tablespoonsful of salad oil ;
rub it up well till it is incorporated with the mix-
ture, and strain it through a sieve.
Sauce for Hashes of Mutton or Beef.
(No. 360.)
Chop the bones and fragments of the joint, &c.,
and put them into a two quart stewpan, with a
quart of boiling water, six berries of black pep-
SAUCES AXD GRAVIES.
per, and the same of allspice, a small bundle of
parsley, and half a head of celery cut in pieces,
lemon-thyrne and sweet marjoram, a very little
bit of each ; cover up, and let it boil quick
for half an hour. Cut a small onion very fine,
put it in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, fry
it over a sharp lire for two minutes, then stir in
as much flour as will make it a stiff paste, and
mix it in some of the gravy you have made from
the bones, &c. ; pour it into a two quart stewpan,
and let it boil for a quarter of an hour longer ;
strain it through a tammis into a basin ; put it
back into the stewpan, season it with pepper and
salt, cut in a few pickled onions, or walnuts, a
couple of gherkins cut in thin slices, and two
tablespoonsful of mushroom catsup, or walnut
pickle, or some capers and caper liquor, or two
tablespoonsful of table beer, and two tablespoons-
ful of vinegar : cover the bottom of the dish with
^?
sippets of bread, toasted, and cut into triangles.
Obs. If any of the gravy that was sent up
with the joint when it was roasted be left, it will
be a great improvement to the hash. If you wish
it to eat like venison, instead of the onion put in
two cloves, a tablespoonful of currant jelly, and
the same quantity of port wine.
Sauce for Hashed or Minced Veal. (No. 36 1 .)
Take the bones of cold roast or boiled veal,
dust half a tablespoonful of flour on them, and put
them into a stewpan, with a pint and a half of
water, a small onion, a little grated lemon-
peel, or the peel of the quarter of a small lemon
M 4
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
pared as thin as possible, half a teaspoon-
ful of salt, and a couple of blades of pound-
ed mace. Set it on a quick fire, and let it boil
haif an hour, strain through a sieve, and it is
r.^ady to put to the veal to warm up. Squeeze
in haif a lemon, cover the bottom of the dish with,
toasted bread sippets cut into triangles.
White Gravy Sauce. (No. 362.)
To a pound of lean juicy gravy beef, or veal^
notched and floured, put a quart of water. Let
it stew very gently for an hour, i. e. till the good-
ness is extracted from the meat, without drawing
it to the dregs : about a quarter of an hour before
it is done, put to it a piece of crust of bread, and
a bit of lemon peel. When done, strain it care-
fully, skim off the fat, put a tablespoonful of
thickening, No. 2. to it. Season with black pep-
per and salt, and the juice of half a lemon.
* An onion, or some sweet herbs, may be added.
To make Marinade. (N T o. 363.)
To a pint of beef gravy add a wineglass of
vinegar, the juice of a lemon, a teaspoonful of
ground black pepper, four cloves bruised, an
onion sliced, a sprig of thyme, and some salt ; let
these simmer together for half an hour, and strain
through a fine sieve.
Qbs. This is called marinade; and when any
thing is soaked for three or four hours in such a
mixture; it is said to be marinated.
SAUCES AXD GRAVIES.
Bechamel Sauce. (No.
Cut a quarter of a pound of lean bam and a
pound of veal into small dice, put it into a two
quart stewpan, with three ounces of butter, two
small young onions tied up with a sprig of pars-
ley and a couple of cloves, (and half a dozen
mushrooms if you have them,) set the stewpan
over a clear slow stove to reduce ; stir up the in
gredients with a wooden spoon, but take care it
does not catch colour, shake in two tablespoonsful
of fine sifted flour, and turn it about and incorporate
it- with the sauce ; when it is well mixed r moisten
it by degrees with a pint and a half of new milk,
taking care to keep your stewpan moving, that the
ingredients may not catch ; let it boil over a brisk
lire for an hour ; if it gets too thick, add some
more milk. Do not put in any salt, as the ham
will make it salt enough ; strain through a tanimis.
In fact, if common veal broth be boiled, scum-
med, thickened with flour and butter, and thinned
again with some more veal broth, boiled a quarter
of an hour longer, till it is reduced to the same quan-
tity it was before you added the veal broth, passed
through a fine sieve, ortammis, and have a suffi-
cient quantity of cream to make it white, and just
simmered together for five minutes, (but not suf-
fered to boil,} you will have a genuine Bechamel.
Obs. Bechamel implies a thick white sauce,
approaching to a batter, and takes its name from
a wealthy French marquess, maitre cThotel de
Louis XIV) and famous for his patronage of
les officiers de bouche, who have immortal-
ized him by calling by his Ltuue this delicate
M 5
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
composition. Most of the French sauces take
their name from the person whose palate they
first pleased, as " a la Maintenon ," or from some
famous cook who invented them, as u Sauce Ro-
bart," " a la Montiieur," &c. By my ZEST,
Nos. 235 and 386, I also put in my claim to im-
mortality of fame.
Povorade Sauce. (No. 365.)
Mince fine a small onion, put it into a quart
stewpan, with a little butter, and a shallot
shred fine, or a very little bit of garlick, cloves,
sweet herbs, and basil, if you like their flavour :
when it has fried a few minutes, add half a pint
of beef or veal gravy, or warm water, and a table-
spoonful of vinegar ; skim it and strain it well ;
thicken it with a little flour and butter, and squeeze
in the juice of half a lemon.
Obs. This sauce is very much used among
foreigners : whoever has looked into any of their
books of cookery, will remember they order many
of their dishes to be sent up with " poivrade ;"
by which may generally be understood, a sauce,
in the composition of which, pepper and vinegar
are predominant. '
Poivrade Sauce cold. (No. 366.)
Behead and bone two anchovies, pound them
in a marble mortar, with two tablespoonsful of
salad oil, and a teaspoonful of made mustard,
some parsley leaves, and a shallot minced fine ;
when well mixed, add vinegar to your taste, and
pass it through a hair sieve, and season it with
pepper and salt.
Obs. A very good sauce for cold meat.
SAUCES AND GRAVIES.
Sauce Tournee. (No. 36?.)
Have ready a pint of beef or veal broth in a
quart stewpan ; put into another stewpan an ounce
of butter ; when it is melted, shake in as much
flour as will make it a stiff paste ; stir till it is
well mixed, but be careful not to let it catch
colour : mix this with the broth, and stir till it is
smooth ; season it with a small bundle of young
onions and parsley, six berries of allspice,
and six mushrooms if you have them ; cover
your stewpan closely, and set it on the corner of
the stove to simmer gently for an hour, and
strain your sauce through a tammis.
Sauce Velouti. (No. 368.)
Pour four tablespoonsful of sauce tournee into a
pint stewpan ; when the sauce is hot, put in two
tablespoonsful of good thick cream ; season with
a little salt ; strain through a tammis, and send it
up hot.
Obs. This is also from the French kitchen,
and is, in fact, only a richer preparation of sauce
tournee.
Mustard in a Minute. (No. 369.)
Mix very gradually together, in a marble or
wedgewood mortar, an ounce of flour of mustard,
with three tablespoonsful of milk, and half a tea-
spoonful of salt, and the same of sugar.
Obs. Mustard made in this manner is not at
SAUCES AND GRAVIES,
all bitter, and may therefore be instantly brought
to table.
Mustard to make. (No. 370.)
Mix by degrees, by rubbing together in a
mortar, the best Durham flour of mustard with
cold water in which scraped horseradish has been
boiled, rub it well together till it is quite smooth :
keep it in a stone jar, closely stopped : only put
as much into the mustard pot as will be used in
a! day or two. The ready made keeping mustard,
(hat is prepared at the oil shops, is mixed with
one fourth part salt : this is useful to preserve it,
if it is to be kept long; otherwise, by all means
omit it. The best way of eating salt is in
substance.
%* See also Recipe, No. 427.
Obs. Some opulent epicures mix their mustard
with sherry or Madeira wine, or distilled vinegar,
instead of horseradish water.
The French flavour their mustard with Cham-
paigne, and other wines, capers, anchovies, tar-
ragon or elder vinegar, garlick, shallot, celery ;:
and fine herbs, truffles, &c.
Salt. (No. 37 K)
Common salt is more relishing than basket 'salt ;
it should be prepared for the table by drying it
in a plate before the fire, and then putting it on
clean paper ; roll it with a rolling pin ; or, what is
still better, pound it in a mortar till it is quite
fine, it will look as well as basket salt.
*,j* Select for table use t the lumps of salt,
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
Salad Sauce. (No. 372.)
Boil a couple of eggs for ten minutes, put them
into a basin of cold water for half an hour, as the
yolks must be quite hard and cold, or they will
not incorporate well with the oil. Rub them
through a sieve with a wooden spoon, and mix
them with a teaspoonful of water, the same quantity
of made mustard, and four tablespoonsful of vine-
gar; when well mixed together, add three table-
spoonsful of oil, and rub it with the other ingredi-
ents till thoroughly incorporated with them ; cut up
the white of the egg* and garnish the top of the salad
with it. Let the sauce remain at the bottom of the
salad bowl, and do not stir up with the salad till it
is to be eaten.
Obs. This mixture is sometimes made with
cream instead of oil, and flavoured with basil,
tarragon, or elder vinegar, essence of celery,
lemon pickle, or an anchovy: of these we prefer
the basil vinegar, see No. 397.
FORCEMEAT STUFFINGS. (No. 573.)
Forcemeat is now considered an indispensable
accompaniment to most made dishes, and when
composed with good taste, gives additional spirit
and relish to even that u essence of savouriness,"
turtle soup. It is also sent up in patties, and for
stuffing of veal, game, poultry, &c. The ingredi-
ents should be so proportioned that no one flavour
predominates, and instead of giving the same
stuffing for veal, for bare, &c., with a little con-
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C,
Veal Stuffing. (No, 374.)
Mince a quarter of a pound of beef suet, (beef
marrow is belter,) the same weight of bread
crumbs, a drachm of parsley, a drachm and a
half of sweet marjoram, or winter savory, or
lemon-thyme, and a roll of lemon-peel chopped
as fine as possible, a little grated nutmeg, pepper
and salt ; mix thoroughly together with the yolk
and white of an egg, and secure it in the veal with
a skewer, or sew it in with a bit of twine.
Make up some of it into balls, and send up in a
side dish.
Obs. Good stuffing has always been considered
a chef-tTceuvre in cookery, and has given im~
niortalify to one artist.
" Poor Roger Fowler had a generous mind,
Nor would submit to have his hand confiaVJ,
But aimed at all, yet never could excel
Li any thing but stuffing of his veal."
KING'S Art of Cookery, p. 11S
Veal Forcemeat. (No. 375.)
Two ounces of undressed lean veal, after you
have scraped it quite fine, and free from skin and
sinews, the same quantity of beef or veal suet, the
same of bread crumbs, chop fine three drachms of
paisley, one of lemon-peel, one of sweet herbs
chopped tine, or in powder, and one of onion
minced small, and half a drachm of allspice, same of
cloves, beaten to fine powder ; pound all together
in a mortar, and break into it the yolk and' white
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
of an egg ; rub it all up well together, and sea-
son it with a little pepper and salt.
For the above, the Editor is indebted to
M. BIRCH, Cook to Dr. KITCHINER.
Obs. This is sometimes made more savoury by
the addition of anchovies and Cayenne pepper.
Stuffing for Roast Turkey, Capon, or Fowls.
(No. 376.)
Chop fine a quarter of a pound of beef or veal
suet, the same quantity of tine bread crumbs, half
an ounce of fat ham or bacon, half a drachm of
lemon thyme, same of parsley, a drachm of lemon-
peel chopped fine, or grated, a small shallot, a
little grated nutmeg, pepper and salt to palate :
mix thoroughly together \vith the yolk and white
of an egg to bind it.
Stuffing for Boiled Turkey. (No. 377-)
Either take the above composition for the roast
turkey, or add the soft part of a dozen oysters to
it, and an anchovy if you like it still more
relishing.
Pork sausage meat is used also for turkies and
fowls.
Goose or Duck Stuffing. (No. 378.)
Chop fine two large onions, and a handful of
green sage, (both unboiled,) a little pepper and
; some add to this a minced apple.
For another, see Roast Goose, and Duck.
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
Stuffing for Hare. (No. 379.)
Two ounces of beef suet chopped fine, three
ounces of fine bread crumbs, parsley a drachm,
shallot half a drachm, or a small anchovy, a
drachm of marjoram or lemon-thyme, or winter-
savory, half a drachm of grated lemon-peel, half
a drachm of nutmeg, pepper and salt ; mix with
the white and yolk of an egg, put it in the hare,
and sew it up.
*** [/' th e lw er i s quite sound, you may add that to
the above.
Forcemeat Balls for Turtle, Mock Turtle,
or Made Dishes. (No. 380.)
Take a large breakfastcupful of bread crumbs,
rubbed through a cullender, put them into a pint
stewpan with a tablespoonful of the soup, as much
parsley chopped fine, and stir them over till it is
quite a hard paste; mix with the yolk of an egg ;
take it out of the stewpan, and put it on a plate
to get cold : mince very fine an ounre of suet, half
a dozen leaves of common or lemon-thyme, the same
of savory, and the like number of little nobs or knots
of sweet marjoram ; beat them together in a mor-
tar, and season them with as much pepper as will
lay on a sixpence, and the same quantity of nut-
meg and salt ; roll up a ball as big as a nutmeg,
and try it in a little boiling water ; if it is too light,
add to it another e;r. and a little more flour, and
c.. 1 \^j t * (
mix it well together again.
Roll your forcemeat into a sausage about as big
as your ring finger, and divide it into equal poi-
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
tions of about half an inch long, round these into
little balls, and if you wish them a lighter colour,
throw them into boiling water for a couple of
minutes ; take them out with a fish slice, and
lay them on a hair sieve to dry. If you like them
brown, fry them.
%* From E. STEVENSON, Cook to Sir SIMON CLARK, Bart.
Or,
Pound some veal in a marble mortar, rub it
through a sieve with as much of the udder as you
have veal, or about a third as much butter; put
some bread crumbs into a stevvpan, with milk
enough to wet it, a little chopped parsley and
shallot, rub them well together till they form a
paste; rub it through a sieve, and when cold,
pound and mix them all together, with the yolks of
three eggs boiled hard ; season it with salt, pepper,
and curry powder, add to it the yolks of two raw
eggs, rub it well together, and make small balls :
ten minutes before your soup is ready put them
in.
*** By the French artist who wrote the receipt to dress a
Turtle, $c. See No. 250.
Egg Balls. (No. 381.)
Boil four eggs for ten minutes, and put them
into cold water, put the yolks into a mortar with
the yolk of a raw egg, and as much salt as will
lay on a shilling, and a little pepper, rub well
together, roll them into small balls, (as they swell
in boiling,) and boil them a couple of minutes.
Curry Balls. (No. 382.)
The yolk of an egg boiled hard, and a bit of
SACCI? :-? z
about hz : ts : beat lojetbet ir
raorrir. and season it with carry powtl .Bake
as in tbe I :eic.
Soup-kerb PL Balls, Xo. 3S3.)
i . i . 7
Smmry Parder Ri!& (Xo. 3S4.)
*:: >":
end Setoum r .: . _ ".
Xo. 583.)
:
: Balls. : So.)
5c N^o. 255, Arc all made in the same
TOgc cr Lcmon-P-:^L to mixirith Stuffi) f .
X. . :~.)
7 >eriflc orange or Icmoa TCTT thin,
off <jc1j tbe fcee jeflow rind, nithoat anv of
the vh'ie, p--ard it in a marble mortar, add tc
la7>p \ , and rob it Yell
_ - . . \ little of the mix-
eH ground and Wendtd w
ef the moftar, and mix it ifiih the
: o^ber nav of incorp 2" it
to well. rcrnnsr ^. are spoiled bv
the rm*tns\ mixin of the
C war. (Xo. 38 S.)
Mix half a tablespoonfiil of floor with a qa
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
of new milk: let if simmer five minutes, to fake
off the rawness of ihe flour: then beat up the
3'olk of an egg, stir it into the milk while boiling,
and strain it through a fine sieve.
-
Raspberry Vinegar. (Xo. 389.)
Put your raspberries into a stone jar, tie them
down, and set them in a slack oven for four hours ;
press out the juice, and add to each quart three
pounds of nae loaf sugar ; boil and skim till it
conies to a syrup. Boil a drachm of bruised co-
chineal in a pint of white wine vinegar for fifteen
minutes : when cold, add to it the quart of syrup,
a quart of cold vinegar, and a quarter of a pint of
reclined spirit of wine.
Raspberry Tlnezar, another way. (Xo. 390.)
Take fine fresh gathered red raspberries well
picked : put them into a wooden or china bowl,
with as much good distilled wine vinegar as will
cover them ; bruise and stir them frequently for
four days : strain them ; and to every pint of the
liquor add a pound of lump sugar : boil for a
quarter of an hour, taking off the scum as it rises ;
add to each pint a glass of brandy, and bottle it :
when used, it may be mixed in about eight parts
of water, and is a most excellent cooling beverage
to assuage thirst in fevers and colds, &c> and ii
agreeable to most palates.
SAVCE5. GRAVIES.
rp of Lemons. (Nc. 391.)
A pint of fresh lemon juice, a pound and a
half of lump sugar; dissolve it in a gentle heat,
scum it. and add an ounce of thin cut lemon-peel ;
let them all simmer together for a few minutes.
"U hen cold, bottle it and cork it closely, and keep
it in a cool place.
Or,
Dissolve an ounce of crystallized lemon-acid
in a pint of clarified syrup.
Orange Syr up. for Puddings. (Xo. 392.)
Squeeze the oranges, and strain the juice from
the pulp into a large pot, and boil it up, with a
pound of fine sugar to each pint of juice ; skim it
-well : let it stand till cold, and then bottle it, and
cork it well.
Sy rit P tf Orange or Lemon Peel. (No. 393.)
Fresh outer rind of Seville orange or lemon-peel,
three ounces, apothecaries' weight ; boiling water,
a pint and a half; infuse them for a night in a close
vessel; then strain the liquor; let it stand to settle;
and having poured it off clear from the sediment,
dissolve in it two pounds of double refined and
finely pounded loaf sugar, and make it into a
syrup with a gentle heat.
Obs. In making this syrup, the sugar must
be dissolved in the infusion with as gentle a hea*
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
as possible, to prevent the exhalation of the vola-
tile parts of the peel. This syrup possesses a
great share of the fine flavour of the orunge, or
lemon-peel.
Syrup of Nutmegs. (No. 39-1.)
Nutmegs grated, two ounces ; boiling water, a
pint ; digest in a close vessel for twenty-four
hours ; strain, and add to it a pound of double re-
fined and powdered loaf sugar, and an egg beat up
with a little cold water : boil up together, skim it
perfectly clean, and reduce it to a syrup : when
cold, add a quarter pint of brandy to it.
Obs. This syrup is strongly impregnated
with the nutmeg, and is a most agreeable and con-
venient ingredient in puddings, &c., and all
sweet dishes in which nutmegs are used. Cloves,
cinnamon, and mace, may be prepared in the
same manner.
Syrup of Vinegar. (No. 395.)
Let two pints and a half of the best distilled
wine vinegar be boiled with three pounds and a
half of lump sugar, till a syrup is formed: this
solution is a very pleasant and cheap substitute
for the syrup of lemons.
The juice of mulberries, raspberries, and black
currants, may be incorporated with syrup in a
similar way ; and are cooling, pleasant drinks,
which may be advantageously employed for miti-
gating thirst in bilious and inflammatory disorders.
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
Tarragon Vinegar (No. 396.)
Is a very agreeable addition to soup and salad
sauce, and is thus made. Put a quarter pound of
fresh gathered tarragon leaves (which should be
gathered just before it flowers.) into a jar, with
a quart of the best distilled wine vinegar, for the
space of fourteen days, in a warm situation, when
it should be strained through a flannel bag : add
a drachm of isinglass, and put it into a dry
jar; let it stand four-and-twenty hours, till it is
fine ; pour it into half pint bottles ; cork them
carefully, and keep them in a dry place.
Obs. You may prepare elder- flower and
other vinegars in the same manner : elder and
tarragon are those in most general use in this
country. Our neighbours, the French, prepare
vinegars flavoured with celery, cucumbers,
capsicums, garlick, onion, capers, burnet, truffles,
Seville orange-peel, ginger; in short, they make
them of almost every herb, fruit, flower and spice
separately, and in innumerable combinations.
Basil Vinegar. (No. 397.)
Steep an ounce of dried and sifted sweet basil
in a pint of the best white wine vinegar for four-
teen days.
Obs. This is a very agreeable addition to
many sauces, soups, and made dishes; and the
mixture usually made for salads.
It is the basis of the " salad sauce" sold in the
oil shops.
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
Mint Vinegar. (No. 398.)
This is made precisely in the same manner,
and with the same proportions, as the preceding
receipt. It is a favourite relish with lamb.
Essence of Vinegar. (No. 399.)
During the intense frosts of winter put some
vinegar into shallow dishes, and the watery parts
will be converted into ice ; but the spirituous, or
acetous basis, remains in a fluid state ; so that by
repeating this process, one pint of strong vinegar
may, in very cold seasons, be reduced to a few
table spoonsful of the essence.
Garllck Vinegar. (No. 400.)
Chop two ounces of garlick very fine, put
them into a quart of boiling hot white wine vine-
gar, stop the jar very close, and let it steep ten
days, shaking it well every day; then pour off
the clear liquor into small bottles.
Obs. - The cook must be careful not to use
too much of this : a few drops of it will impreg-
nate a pint of gravy with a sufficient taste of the
garlick; the flavour of which, when slight and
well blended, is one of the finest ingredients we
have; when used in excess, the most offen-
sive : the best way to use garlick, is to send up
some of this vinegar in a cruet, and let the com-
pany flavour their own sauce as they l&e.
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
. Eshallot Vinegar (No. 401.)
Is made in the same manner, and the cook
should never be without it ; it costs scarcely an;y
thing, and will save her an immense deal of trou-
ble in flavouring all soups and sauces that she
wishes to give a taste of onion.
Eshallot Wine. (No. 402.)
Infuse an ounce and a half of eshallots, minced
fine, in a pint of port wine for ten days.
Obs. This is rather the most expensive, bui
infinitely the most elegant preparation of eshallot
and gives the onion flavour to soups and sauce;
more agreeably than any other way : it also doe*
not at all leave an unpleasant taste in the moutli
and to the breath, which all the other prepara
tions of garlick, onion, &c. do.
Camp Vinegar. (No. 403.)
Cayenne pepper, a quarter of an ounce.
Cochineal, half a drachm.
Soy, two tablespoonsful.
Walnut catsup, ditto.
Two anchovies chopped.
A small clove of garlick minced fine.
Steep all for a month in a pint of best vinegar,
frequently shaking the bottle : strain through a
tammis, and keep it in small bottles corked as well
as possible.
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
Brochard Sauce, for Cold Meat. (No. 404.)
Six shallots, minced fine.
Two tablespoonsful of made mustard.
Six anchovies pounded.
Haifa pint of vinegar.
Four tablespoonsfui of sweet oil.
Two teaspoonsful of ground black pepper.
One teaspoonful of salt, and the rind of a lemon.
Bottle it.
Essence of Cayenne. (No. 405.)
Put an ounce of Cayenne pepper into half a
pint of strong proof spirit ; let it steep for a fort-
night, and then pour off the clear liquor.
This is nearly equal to fresh Chili juice.
Obs. A few drops will be found extremely
convenient for the extempore seasoning and finish-
ing of soup, sauces, &c., its flavour being instantly
and equally diffused.
Prepared Lemon Juice. (No. 406.)
Tn the following manner you may prepare and
preserve the juice of lemons, limes, or orangesj
for punch, lemonade, iced creams, &c.
Pare very thin, or rasp off the outside rinds of
the fruit with a bread grater, till you have got
about a quarter pint of them ; put them into a
wide mouthed bottle, pour in half a pint of good
brandy, and set the bottle in a warm situation for
three days, frequently shaking it up. Then
squeeze as much fruit as will yield a quart of
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
juice : let it settle, and run it through a flannel
bag : squeeze the brandy from the rinds, and add
it to the juice of the fruits; bottle it, and cork it
well.
Obs. This will keep for years, and improve
in flavour; and make the finest punch, &c., by
only adding sugar, spirits, water, &c. to the
palate.
Essence of Lemon-Peel. (No. 407.)
Wash and clean the lemons ; let them get per-
fectly dry ; take a lump of loaf sugar, and rub
them till all the yellow rind is taken up by the
sugar ; scrape off the surface of the sugar into a
preserving pot, and press it hard down ; cover it
very close, and it will keep for twelve months.
In the same way you may get the essence of
Seville orange-peel.
Obs. This method of procuring and pre-
serving the flavour of lemon-peel is far superior
to the common practice of paring off the rind, or
grating it, and pounding or mixing that with
sugar: in this process, you obtain the whole of
the fine, fragrant, essential oil, in which is con-
tained the flavour,
Quint-Essence of Lemon Peel. (No. 408.)
Best oil of lemon, one drachm.
Strongest spirit of wine, two ounces,
such as will burn dry in a silver spoon, intro-
duced by degrees, till the spirit kills or over-
powers, and completely mixes with the oil. This
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
is a most elegant and useful preparation, posses-
sing all the delightful fragrance and flavour of the
freshest lemon-peel.
Obs. A few drops on the sugar you make
punch with, will instantly impregnate it with a
much finer flavour than the troublesome and
tedious method of grating the rind, or rubbing the
sugar on it. It will be found a superlative sub-
stitute for fresh lemon-peel, for every purpose
that it is used for ; blanc mange, jellies, custards,
ice, iiegus, lemonade, and pies, puddings, stuf-
fings, soups, sauces, and ragouts, to which it im-
mediately gives a most delicious zest.
Spirit of Celery. (No. 409.)
Strong spirit of wine, two ounces.
Celery seed, three drachms.
Let it steep for a fortnight : set the bottle, for the
first two or three clays, where it will receive a
heat of one hundred degrees, Fahrenheit's ther-
mometer.
Obs. A few drops will jla-cour a pint of
broth and are an excellent * addition to pease
and other soups, and the salad mixture of oil,
vinegar, &c.
Preserved Juice of Fruits without Sugar.
(No. 410.)
Raspberries, strawberries, mulberries, elderber-
ries, black, red, and white currants. When full ripe,
gather them perfectly dry ; pick and clean them from,
stalks and leaves, and put them into a preserving-
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
pan over a slow charcoal fire : mash them to a pulp,
and turn them into a stone pan ; cover down with
a cloth till they are cool; press out all the juice,
and run it through a jelly bag ; and to each
quart add a quarter pint of brandy, or half that
quantity of strong spirits of wine : cork down in
clean, dry bottles : kept in a good cellar, it will be
good for two years, for all the purposes of iced
creams, jellies, and cooling beverage, by adding
the juice of lemons, sugar, &c. &c.
Essence of Ginger. (No. 411.)
Four ounces of powdered ginger in a quart of
rectified spirit, apothecaries' measure : let it stand
for ten days, shaking it up each day.
Obs. This would be more properly called
" tincture of ginger :'' however, as it has obtained
the name of " essence," so let it be called.
Essence of Allspice. (No. 412.)
Oil of pimento, half a drachm, apothecaries'
measure.
Strong spirit of wine, two ounces,
mixed by degrees : a few drops will give the fl^
vour of allspice to a pint of gravy.
Tincture of Allspice. (No. 413.)
Of allspice bruised, three ounces.
Brandy, a quart, apothecaries' measure.
Let it steep a fortnight, occasionally shaking it
up; then pour off the clear liquor : it is a most
grateful addition in all cases where allspice is
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
used, for malting mulled wine extempore, or in
gravies, &c.
Essence of Clove and Mace. (No. 4 1 4,)
Rectified spirit of wine, two ounces, apotheca-
ries' measure.
Oil of nutmeg, or clove, or mace, half a drachm,
apothecaries' measure.
Tincture of Clove. (No. 415.)
Cloves bruised, three ounces.
Rectified spirit of wine, two pints, apothecaries'
measure.
Let it steep ten days : strain it through a flannel
sleeve.
Essence of Cinnamon. (No. 4 1 6.)
Strongest rectified spirit of wine, two ounces.
Oil of cinnamon, one drachm, apothecaries*
measure.
Essence of Marjoram. (No. 4 1 7.)
Strong rectified spirit, two ounces.
Oil of origanum, one drachm, apothecaries'
measure.
Alum Finings, for clarifying Spirituous
and Olcose Cordials. Compounds, fyc.
(No. 418.)
Boil a drachm of alum in a pint of water till it
is reduced to half a pint : ten drops, made as
N4:
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
warm as new milk, are sufficient for a quart of
liquor : shake the bottle well two or three times a
day, for three or four days, carefully giving it
vent each time.
Spirit of Sweet-Herbs, for Broths, $c.
(No. 419.)
Rectified spirit of wine, two ounces.
Oil of origanum, a drachm.
Lemon-thyme,
Sweet marjoram, and
Winter-savory,
dried and rubbed through a sieve, a drachm of
each.
Celery seed, and
Minced eshallots, half a drachm ; all the above
ingredients apothecaries' measure.
Let it have fourteen days to digest.
Soup Herb Spirit. (No. 420.)
Of common thyme,
Lemon-thyme,
Winter-savory,
Sweet marjoram,
Fresh lemon-peel,
Sweet basil, each three drachms.
Bay leaves.
Mint, and
Sage, half a drachm each.
Celery seed, a quarter drachm ; all the above
avoirdupoise weight.
To be dried and rubbed through a sieve, and
infused in a pint and a quarter of brandy or
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
proof spirit for ten clays; this may also be infused
in wine or vinegar ; but neither extract the flavour
of the ingredients half so well as the spirit.
Spirit of Savoury Spice. (No. 42 1 .)
Black pepper and allspice pounded fine, three
quarters of an ounce each.
Nutmeg grated, a quarter of an ounce.
Infuse in a pint and a quarter of proof spirit for
ten days.
Soup-herb, and Savoury Spice Spirit.
(No. 422.)
Mix half a pint of soup-herb spirit with a quar-
ter pint of spirit of savoury spice.
Obs.~ These preparations are most invaluable
auxiliaries to immediately heighten the flavour,
and finish soups, sauces, ragouts, fyc., and all
made dishes, and will keep for twenty years.
Relish for Chops, <*c. (No. 423.)
Pound fine half an ounce of black pepper, same
of allspice, an ounce of salt; mince fine half an
ounce of eshallot*, put them into a pint of mush-
room catsup, set the bottle for twenty-four hours
where it will receive a heat of about ninety de-
grees of Fahrenheit's thermometer ; let it steep a
week, and then strain it.
Obs. A teaspoonful or two of this are gene-
rally a very acceptable addition, mixed with the
gravy usually sent up for chops and steaks ; see
No. 356.
N5
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
Original Receipt for QUIN'S Sauce.
(No. 424.)
A pint and a half of strong old walnut liquor.
A pound and a half of Gorgona anchovies.
A quarter of an ounce each of
Mace,
Cloves,
And fine Jamaica pepper.
Half a teaspoonful of Cayenne.
Twenty-four esh allots.
Half an ounce of garlick.
Two ounces of scraped horseradish.
To be boiled together, and the liquor strained
therefrom.
Obs. The above is copied from this celebrated
epicure's original receipt now lying before me,
for which I am indebted to Wm. Blachford,
Esq., of Gray's Inn : its authenticity may be fully
relied on.
"* # * This sauce is prepared, as here described, by Messrs.
BALL, 81, New Bond Street, London.
Fish Sauce. (No. 425.)
Two wineglasses of port, and two of walnut
pickle ; double that quantity of mushroom catsup ;
four anchovies pounded, with two eshallots, a
tablespoonful of soy, and a small saltspoonful of
Cayenne pepper : boil all together : when cold,
put it into half pint bottles, well corked and
sealed over; it will keep for a couple of years.
Obs. This is commonly called Quints-Sauce^
and was given me by a very sagacious sauce -
maker.
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
Fish Sauce. (No. 426.)
Take six anchovies, two eshallots, two blades
of mace, a tablespoonful of scraped horseradish,
six cloves, six berries of allspice, half a pint of
white wine, a quarter of a pint of water, and
the rind pared thin, and the juice of a large
lemon ; boil all together till reduced to half a
pint, strain it, and add a tablespoonful of catsup,
or soy.
Keeping Mustard. (No. 427.)
Boil three ounces of salt in a quart of water,
and pour it boiling hot upon an ounce of scraped
horseradish ; cover down the jar, and let it stand,
twenty-four hours : strain it, and mix it by de-
grees with the best Durham flour of mustard, beat
well together for a long time till of the proper
thickness : put it into a jar, or wide mouthed
bottle stopped closely : it will keep good for
months.
Sour Grout*. (No. 428.)
Take a dozen good hard white cabbages, trim
and divide them into quarters, take out all the
stalks from the heart of the cabbage, cut it with
a knife or chaff-cutter into very small slips Mix
six pounds of salt with four ounces of juniper
* This as commonly appears on the table in Germany,
as potatoes in England, and takes its name from soeur, salt,
and kraut, cabbage, which has been corrupted into sour crout.
SAUCES. GRAVIES, &C.
berries and an ounce of carrawa y seed ; put (lie
cabbage into a cask, first strewing the bottom of it
with some of the mixture, then a layer of cab-
bage ; take care that the head of the cask fits very
closely ; cover down, and lay a large stone on it.
Set the cask in a shed or outhouse for three
months; it will then be coming ready for use.
When you use it. take off the stone and cover,
scrape aside some of the top, take out what you
want, and replace what you scraped off the top,
and cover down your cask closely as before. Put
the crout into a stewpan with cold water, simmer
it for half an hour, drain in a cullender ; when
done, put the meat you intend to dress into the
stewpan, and cover it over with the crout; put
just water enough to stew the meat, and to give
gravy to serve up with it: when you dish up, put
the crout and gravy first into the dish, and lay the
meat on them.
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
SAUCE SUPERLATIVE. (No, 429.)
Port wine and mushroom catsup, a pint of each.
Vinegar, a quarter pint.
Or, what is better,
Haifa pint of walnut or other pickle liquor.
But to make sauce most superlative, instead of
either of the above,
Six drachms avoirdupois of crystallized acid of
lemon.
Pounded anchovy, an ounce,
3ried and pounded parsley, an ounce.
Dried winter-savory, two ounces.
Fresh lemon-peel pared ~cery thit^ an ounce.
Peeled and sliced eshallofs, half an ounce.
Allspice and
Black pepper powdered, a quarter ounce each.
Ginger and
Mace powdered, two drachms each.
Cayenne, a drachm.
Celery-seed bruised, a drachm. All avoirdu*
poise weight*
Put all into a wide mouth bottle, stop it close,
shake it up every day for a fortnight, and strain
it, (when some think it improved by the addition
of a quarter pint of thick browning, see No. 322,
or 436,) and you will have a most incomparably
elegant and u DELICIOUS DOUBLE RELISH AND
SAUCE SUPERLATIVE," extremely acceptable and
refreshing to the lingual nerves. *
*V* The above receipt I received from William Kitch-
iner, M. D., who considers this composition as the " chef-
d'ceuvre" of many experiments he has made, for the purpose
of enabling the good housezcires of Great Britain, to prepare
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
their own sauces : it is equally agreeable withjlsh, poultry, or
ragouts ; and as a fair lady may make it herself ] she may also
be certain all the ingredients are sweet and zcholesome.
Obs. Under an infinity of circumstances, a
cook may be in want of the substances necessary
to make sauce ; the above composition of proper
proportions of the several articles from which the
various gravies derive their flavour, will be found
a very superlative substitute for gravy sauce, by
mixing two tablespoonsful with half a pint of
melted butter : five minutes will finish a boat of
very relishing sauce.
Mock Anchovies. (No. 430.)
Take half a peck of fresh sprats, do not wash
them, only draw them at the gills, and put them
into stone jars with the following mixture. Two
pounds of common salt, a pound of saltpetre,
two ounces of white pepper, and the same quan-
tity of lump sugar, half an ounce of lemon-
peel, and four or five bay-leaves ; pound these all
well together ; put a layer of this at the bottom
of the jar, then a layer of sprats, and so alter-
nately till the jar is full ; tie them down close
with a bladder, and keep them in a cold dry
place, and they will be ready for use in six
months : if you turn the jar upside down twice a
week, they will be ready in half that time.
Obs. Smelts are prepared in the same
manner.
Essence of Mock Anchovies. (No. 431.)
When t the proceeding preparation has been
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
kept a year or more, it may be made into es-
sence by pounding the fish in a marble mortar
till they are quite fine, and adding to them
the liquor they were pickled in ; if there is not
sufficient of this, to make it thinner you may
dilute it with cold spring water ; when well
mixed, strain through a hair sieve, and bottle it
r
lor use.
Mock Essence of Anchovies. (No. 432.)
Boil a quart of stale ale for a quarter of an hour,
let it stand till it is cold ; take five Dutch pickled
herrings with their liquor, (take off the heads and
roes,) mince them fine, put them into the beer,
with a stick of horseradish scraped fine; let it boil
twenty minutes ; strain it ; hold a clean fryingpan,
over the fire' that it may be quite dry, put
a quarter of a pound of flour in it ; keep stirring
it with a wooden spoon, till it is the colour of
essence of anchovies ; put the liquor to it, and
stir it together till it boils ; let it boil a quarter of
an hour ; when cold, bottle it ; if not of sufficient
colour, put a little bole armeniac to it.
Obs. These three preparations are among the
best of the imitations of anchovy, and are fre-
quently sold for it, and for common palates may
do very well; but to impart to artificial anchovies
the delicious flavour of the Gorgona fish, so as to
impose upon a gourmand of good taste, we fear
will still remain in the catalogue of the sauce-
maker's desiderata.
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
ESSENCE OF ANCHOVY. (No. 433.)
The goodness of this preparation depends almost
entirely on having fine mellow fish, that have
been in pickle long enough (i. e. about twelve
months) to dissolve easily, yet are not at all
rusty. It has been said that some shops have a
trick of putting anchovy liquor on pickled sprats :
you will easily discover this by washing o.'ie of
them, and tasting the flesh of it, which in the
finest anchovies is mellow, reel, and high flavoured,
and the bone moist and oily.
Put into a marble mortar a pound of anchovies,
beat them to a pulp, and put them into a sauce-
pan with a quart and half a pint of water, let them
simmer terj/ gently by the side of a slow fire for an
hour and a half, frequently stirring them together.
(Thisis the proper way to perfectly dissolve the fish,
and completely incorporate it with the water, so
that it may continue suspended, and not separate.
To prevent the separation of essence of anchovy,
various other expedients have been tried, such as
the addition of mucilage, flour, oatmeal, or gum ;
but where any of these things are added, it does
not keep half so well as it does without them.)
Skim it well, and add to it an ounce of salt, and a
drachm of Cayenne pepper ; let it simmer
together ten minutes longer, find strain it. If this
is properly made, a tablespoonful will be about
equal to an anchovy.
Obs. It mitst be kept in a very close stopped
bottle ; for if the air gets to it, the Jish takes the
ntst, and it is spoiled directly- Some of the oil-
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
shops colour this with bole armeniac, rose pink,
Venice-red, &c. ; but all these additions deterio-
rate the flavour of the anchovy, and the palate
and stomach suffer for the gratification of the
eye, which, in culinary concerns, will never
be indulged by the sagacious gourmand, at the
expense of these two prirnum mobiles of his
pursuits.
** If essence of anchovy be made for the use of private
families, it should be with good sherry or Madeira wine,
{instead of water, as directed above,} not merely to enrich
the flavour of the sauce, but it will keep infinitely better.
Anchovy Paste, (No. 434.)
Wash your anchovies, rub off the scales, and
take away the head, bones, and fins ; pound
the meat in a marble mortar, with a very little
fresh butter, till it becomes a smooth paste, then
rub it through a fine sieve, and pot it ; cover it
very closely, and keep it in a" cool place.
Obs. This is sometimes made into a stiffer
paste by using a little spice, or Cayenne, and a
very little brandy, instead of butter. The former
preparation is very convenient for sauces, the
latter makes a most savoury sandwich. It is arj
excellent garnish for fish, put in pats round the
edge of the dish,
Anchovy Powder. (No. 435.)
Bone the fish, pound them in a mortar, and
make them into a paste with fine flour, roll it
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
info thin cakes, and dry them in a Dutch oveii
before a slpw fire, and then they will pound to a
fine po\ydcr, -syhicb, in a well-stopped bottle, will
keep for .years. It is a very savoury relish
sprinkled on bread and butler for a sandwich.
SOY. (No. 436.)
To a small teacupful of water add half a pound
of treacle, or moist or lump sugar ; set it on the
fire in an iron pot till it boils to a dark brown colour,
keep stirring it, and take great care, or it wilt
burn: when it is become quite thick, add to it
a quarter ounce of salt, and gradually as much
water as will reduce it to the consistence of soy ;
mix well together, and boil up for five minutes.
The addition of a quarter of a pint of good strong
beef glaze * to three quarters of a pint of the burnt
sugar will very much improve it: those who like
a gout of acid may add vinegar.
Obs. This will hardly be told from what is
commonly called " genuine India soy" and will
answer every purpose that is used for. Burnettrea-
cle, or sugar, and Cluli vinegar, garlick, and
pickled fish, appear to be the bases of almost all the
sauces that are now sold in the oil-shops. Although,
indefatigable research and experiment has put us
in possession of all these compositions, it would
not be quite fair to enrich the cook at the expense
of the oilman, &c.
* See No. 187. Beef glaze is nothing more than strong beef
gravy reduced to the consistence of a syrup that will hang
about the spoon.
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
Essence of Walnuts. (No. 437.)
Take walnuts of the size for pickling 1 , cut and
pound them in a marble mortar, sprinkle a little
salt over them, and stir them up, and let them
stand to settle for twenty-four hours ; press off the
juice, and to each quart add half a pound of an-
chovies, and the like quantity of peeled and sliced
eshallots, and a quarter of a pint of the best wine vi-
negar ; give them a simmer for half an hour, till the
anchovies are melted, and then strain the liquor
upon two ounces of soup-herb powder, half an
ounce of bruised black pepper, the same quantity
of flour of mustard, a quarter of an ounce of nut-
meg grated, a drachm of Cayenne pepper, half a
dozen bay leaves, and half a pint of port wine ;
let all simmer together for fifteen or twenty
minutes, and then run it through a flannel bag till
it is fine.
Walnut Catsup. (No. 438.)
Take two hundred walnuts when quite tender,
put them into a gallon of salt and water for a
week : drain and dry them, mash them to a pulp
in a marble mortar, with a pound of salt ; let it
rest three or four days, and press all the juice
from it ; to each gallon of liquor put a quarter of
a pound of minced shallots, half an ounce of
bruised cloves, same of mace and black pepper,
one teaspoonful of Cayenne, and a quarter of a
pound of salt ; give it a boil up, and strain it
through a flannel bag.
By adding a glass of brandy to each quart, it
will keep much better.
SAUCES; GRAVIES, &C.
Or,
Mash tbe rinds of walnuts with sail, and prepare
as above.
%* We have not tried either of the above catsups, but have
them from so good a cook, that tec dare say they are properly
made,
MUSHROOM CATSUP, (No. 439.)
When properly prepared, according to the fol-
lowiiig directions, is the most delicious addition to
made dishes, ragouts, soups, sauces or hashes.
Mushroom gravy approaches the nature and
flavour of meat gravy more than any vegetable
juice, and is the best substitute for it in meagre
soups, and extempore gravies, the chemistry of
the kitchen has yet produced, to agreeably
awaken the palate and encourage appetite.
I believe the following is the best way of ex-
tracting and preparing the essence of mushrooms,
so as to procure and preserve all their fine flavour
fora considerable length of time. Fine full grown
flap mushrooms are to be preferred : put a layer
of these at the bottom of a deep earthen pan, and
sprinkle them with salt, then another layer of
mushrooms, and some more salt on them, and so
on alternately, salt and mushrooms ; let them
remain two or three hours, by which time ihe
salt will have penetrated into the mushrooms, and
rendered them easy to break ; mash them well
with your hands, and let them remain in salt for
forty-eight hours, stirring them up and mashing
them well each day; then pour them into a stone
jar, and to each quart add a quarter of an ounce
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
of whole black pepper ; stop the jar very close,
and set it in a stewpan of boiling water, keeping
it boiling for two hours. Take out the jar, and
when the contents are cold, pour the juice clear
from the settlings into a clean stew r pan ; let it just
boil up, skim it, and pour it into a clean dry jar
or jug ; let it stand till next day, then pour it off
as gently as possible, (so as not to disturb the
settlings at the bottom of the jug,) through a taml
mis, or thick flannel bag. Bottle it in pints or
half pints ; (for it is best to keep it in such quanti-
ties as are soon used :) in each pint put a dozen
berries of black pepper, the same of allspice, and
a tablespoonful of brandy *. Take especial care
that it is closely corked and sealed down. If kept
in a cool, dry place, it will be good for two years ;
but if it is but badly corked, and kept in a damp
place, it will soon spoil. Examine it every three
months, and if any pellicle appears about the neck
of the bottle, boil it up again with a few pepper-
corns.
Obs. You have here^e Quintessence of mush-
rooms^ and a tablespoonful of it will impregnate
half a pint of sauce with the full flavour of them,
in much greater perfection than can be obtained
either from pickled or dried powder of mush-
rooms.
* We have added no more spice, &c. than is absolutely neces-
sary to feed the catsup, and keep it from fermenting. Brandy
is an excellent preservative to all preparations of this sort,
pickles, &c. &c. The less the natural flavour of the mush-
rooms is overpowered the better, and \ve believe Brandy to
deteriorate it so little, it can hardly be perceived by the finest
palate.
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
What is sold for mushroom catsup, is generally
an injudicious composition of so many different
tastes, that the flavour of the mushroom is over-
powered by a farrago of garlic, anchovy, mustard,
shallot, beer, wine, spices, &c.
Ready made catsup is little better than a de-
coction of spice and water, with the grosser parts
of the mushrooms all beaten up to a pulp.
Excellent mushroom catsup may be had at BUT-
LER'S herb and seed shop, opposite Henrietta
Street^ Covent Garden.
Mushrooms Preserved. (No. .440.)
To every pint of mushrooms that remain after
you have strained the liquor from them, as in the
preceding receipt, add an ounce of salt, and a
quarter of an ounce of ground black pepper; stir
well together, and put them into small jars for en-
riching hashes, gravies, soups, or any brown made
dishes, in which the flavour of the mushroom is
agreeable. Close stopped they will keep the year
round.
Oyster Catsup. (No. 441.)
Take fifty fine Milton oysters ; wash them in
their own liquor, which must be boiled and well
skimmed ; beard them, and pound the oysters in a
marble mortar, and boil them in their liquor, with
a pint and a half of white wine, for half an
hour ; strain through muslin, and add the juice of
a lemon, and half the peel, a drachm of mace^
nutmeg, and ginger grated ; boil for ten minutes
longer, add half an ounce of shallots, and, when
cold, bottle it with the shallots and spice in it.
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
Obs. This composition very agreeably height-
ens the flavour of all white sauces, and white
made dishes, and if you add a wine glass of
brandy to each pint, it will keep good for a couple
of years.
Cockle and Muscle Catsup (No. 442.)
May be made in the same way as the oyster
catsup.
Tomata Catsup. (No. 443.)
Gather a gallon of fine, red, and full ripe
tomatas ; mash them with one pound of salt ; let
them rest for three days, press off the juice, and
to each quart add a quarter of a pound of ancho-
vies, two ounces of shallots, and an ounce of
ground black pepper ; boil up together for half an
hour, strain through a sieve, and put to it the
following spices ; a quarter of an ounce of mace,
the same of allspice and ginger, half an ounce of
nutmeg, a drachm of coriander seed, and half a
drachm of cochineal ; pound all together ; let
them simmer gently for twenty minutes, and
strain through a bag : when cold, bottle it,
adding to each bottle a wineglass of brandy. It
will keep for seven years.
White Catsup. (No. 444.)
To a pint of white wine vinegar put a dozen
anchovies ; let them simmer on a trivet by the
side of the fire till they are dissolved, then strain
them ; when they are cold, add a pint of sherry
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
wine, the peel of a large lemon pared very thin,
Lalf a dozen bay leaves, an ounce of scraped
horseradish, two drachms of grated nutmeg, one
of bruised cloves, the same of white pepper and
ginger, and a dozen eshallots cut in quarters ; stop
your jar very close ; keep it in a warm situation
for ten days, shaking it up every day, and then
decant it for use.
Cucumber Catsup. (No. 445.)
Peel and slice two dozen large cucumbers, add
one third part of onions sliced, and throw a hand-
ful of salt over them ; let them stand for a day
and a half, occasionally stirring them up ; strain
them through a hair sieve, and put to each quart
of liquor a handful of scraped horseradish, the
peel of a lemon, quarter of an ounce of black pep-
per, two drachms of mace bruised; boil together
for a quarter of an hour in a close covered vessel,
and strain it : when cold, bottle it, and put to
each pint a large tablespoonful of good brandy,
to preserve it from fermentation, decomposi-
tion, &c.
Obs. Either of the preceding combinations
will be found a very agreeable zest to most white
dishes.
Pudding Catsup. (No. 446.)
Half a pint of brandy, a pint pf sherry,
An ounce of mace,
And half an ounce of cloves.
Let them steep for fourteen days, and then strain
it, and add half a pint of capillaire. This will
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
keep for years, and added to melted butter, is a
most delicious relish to puddings, and many
sweet dishes.
Potatoe Mucilage. (No. 448.)
Peel and wash a pound of full grown potatoes,
grate them on a bread grater into a deep dish
containing half a gallon of clear water ; strain
this through a hair sieve, and pour half a gallon
more water through the sieve ; save the water,
and leave it ten minutes to settle ; pour off the
water, and fill up the dish again with fresh water,
let it settle, and repeat this every ten minutes, as
long as the water is stained reddish : you must
change the water, and stir it up agairt* : you will
at last find a fine white powder at the bottom of
the vessel ; lay this on a sheet of paper in a hair
sieve to dry, either in the sun, or before the fire,
and it is ready for use. A large teaspoonful of
this, mixed with a tablespoonful of cold water,
will be sufficient to thicken a quart of gravy, into
which it must be stirred just before you take it
up, and will go as far as a tablespoonful of flour
and butter.
Obs This preparation requires some pa-
tience and perseverance, and this is the great
secret of making it : it is worth knowing, for it
gives a richness and fine fulness on (he palate to
gravies and sauces at hardly any expense, which
* The criterion whereby any one making potatoe farina
may jpdge of its being completed, is by the purity of the
water that comes from it after stirring it up.
o
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
by the usual mode of producing an equal decree
of' consistency, would cost an extravagant sum,
and not be better. As it is perfectly tas?U'!e>s,
it u ill not alter tlie flavour of the most delicate
broth, 6cc.
J/;\*. Rciffald's Browning. (Xo. 449.)
Beat to powder four ounces of fine lump sugar;
put it into a clean iron fry ing pan with one
ounce of butter : set it over a clear fire, and mix
it very well together: when it begins t be frothy
the su^ar is dissolving ; then hold it higher over
the fire, and have ready a pint of red wine : \\hen.
the sugar and buffer are of a deep brown, pour in
a little of the wine, stir it thoroughly together,
aud gradually add the rest of the wine, and keep
stirring it all the time : put in half an ounce of all-
spice, six cloves, four shallots peeled, and two or
three blades of mace, three tablespoonsful of mush-
room catsup, a little salt, and the rind of a lemon
peeled as thin as possible ; boil up slowly for ten
minutes; pour it into a basin; when cold, take
off the scum very clean, and bottle it for use.
Obs. The above is a pleasant sauce; but the
cook must remember it will alter the flavour as
well as colour of whatever it is added to.
Airs. Raff aid's Lemon Pickle. (No. 450.)
Take a dozen lemons, grate off the out rinds
very thin, cut them in four quarters, but leave the
bottoms whole; rub on them equally a quarter
of a pound of bay salt, spread them in a large
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
pewter dish, and let (hem dry gradually by the
fire till all the juice is dried into the peels; then
put them into a stone jar, \vilh half an ounce of
mnce, quarter of an ounce of cloves beat fine,
half an ounce of nutmeg cut in thin slices, two
ounces of garlick peeled, quarter of a pound of
mustard-seed bruised a little, and tied in a muslin
bag; pour a quart of boiling white uine vinegar
upon them, close the pitcher or jar well up, and
let it stand five or six days by the fire : shake it
well every day, then tie it up as close as possible,
and let it stand for three months. When you
bottle it, put the pickle and lemon into a hair
sieve, press them well, to get out the liquor ; let
it stand till next da} r ; then pour off the fine and
bottle it; let the rest stand three or four days and
it will settle ; pour off the fine again, and let it
again settle till you have poured off all you can
get fine. It may be put into any white sauce, and
will not hurt the colour; is very good for fish
sauce and made dishes, especially of veal; a tea-
spoonful is enough for white, and two for brown
sauce for a fowl : it is a most useful pickle, and
gives a pleasant flavour : be sure you put it in
before you thicken the sauce, or put any cream
in, lest the sharpness make it curdle.
Obs. a I have given no directions for cullis,
as I have found by experience that lemon-pickle
and browning answer both for beauty and taste,
(at a trifling expense,) better than the most ex-
travagant cullisses. Had I known the use and
value of these two receipts when I first took
upon me the part and duty of a housekeeper,
they would have saved me a <rreat deal of trouble
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
in making gravy, and those I served a great deal
of expense." Seethe preface to Raffald's Cook-
ery, London, 8vo. 1806. We suppose Mrs R's.
praise of these two sauces to be well deserved, as
they have been copied into almost every cookery
book that has gone to press since.
Hash Sauce. (No. 45 1 .)
Mushroom catsup, three ounces.
Eshallot wine, half an ounce.
Walnut pickle, one ounce.
Browning, one ounce.
Mix. If you wish it to keep for a great length
of time, add half an ounce of soup-herb spirit to it.
Obs. This is not only a most convenient
relish for hashes, but being composed of proper
proportions of the ingredients usually employed
to flavour and make sauce for hashes, it will save
much time and trouble, and is thus easily made.
Take a piece of butter about as big as a walnut,
put it into a stewpan, and set it on the fire ; when
it looks brown, put to it a tablespoonful of flour;
stir it thoroughly together, aud add to it twelve
berries of black pepper, and the same of allspice,
a feaspoonful of soup-herb powder, and ateaspoon-
ful of salt, and three tablespoonsful of hash sauce ;
put to it a pint of boiling water, and let it boil
gently over a slow fire for a quarter of an hour,
then strain it through a sieve, and it is ready to re-
ceive the meat that is to be warmed in it.
Piquant e Vinegar, or Sauce for Salads
or Cold Meats. (No. 452.)
Horseradish scraped fine, two ounces.
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
Sweet basil dried and pounded, half an ounce.
Flour of mustard, an ounce.
Salt, and black pepper, of each half an ounce.
Celery seed, half a drachm.
Best white wine vinegar, a quart ;
and half a pint poured hot over these ingredi-
ents : it will be ready for use in about a fortnight.
Salad Mixture. (No. 453.)
Take white wine vinegar, one quart.
Salt, two ounces.
Boil them up together, and scum it well : then
beat up the yolks of half a dozen eggs, strain
through a sieve : add to these,
Three tablespoonsful of made mustard, and
Half a pint of olive oil, or oil of sweet al-
monds.
Mix this thoroughly together in a mortar, and
put it to your vinegar in the stewpan ; set it over
a very slow fire, and keep stirring it with a
wooden spoon till it is simmered to the con-
sistence of cream. When cold, bottle it, and cork
it carefully.
Curry Powder. (No. 454.)
Take of the best Durham flour of mustard four
ounces.
Put the following ingredients in a cool oven all
night, the next morning pound them in a marble
mortar, and rub them through a silk sieve.
Coriander seed, four ounces.
Turmeric, four ounces.
Black pepper, three ounces.
Cayenne pepper ? half an ounce.
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
Ginger, one ounce.
Cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce.
Lesser cardamoms,
Cloves,
Mace, each half an ounce-
Mix all well together, and put them into a
wide mouthed bottle.
Obs. Fennel and Cummin seed are sometimes
added to the above ; a few bay leaves are also oc-
casionally used.
Cheap Curry Powder. (No. 455.)
Dry and reduce the following spices to a fine pow-
der, in the same way as in the foregoing receipt.
Coriander seed, four ounces.
Turmeric, three ounces.
Black pepper, one ounce.
Ginger, one ounce.
Cayenne pepper, quarter of an ounce.
Lesser cardamoms, one ounce.
Cinnamon, quarter of an ounce.
Mix together, and keep them in a wide mouth
bottle.
Obs. These two receipts were given me by a
friend : as I have not tried them, I cannot vouch
for their being the actual ingredients of what is
sold as the Indian composition.
Messrs. BALL, 81, New Bond Street sell very
good curry powder.
Italian Tamara. (No. 456.)
Coriander seed, one ounce.
Cinnamon, one ounce.
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
Clove, one ounce.
Fennel seed, half an ounce.
Annaseedj halt* an ounce.
Beaten into powder, used in the same way
as the curry powder.
SAVOURY RAGOUT POWDER.
(No. 4.57.)
Mustard,
Allspice, and
Black pepper ground and sifted tine, half an
ounce each.
Ginger,
Nutmeg grated, and
Salt, a quarter of an ounce each.
Mace, two drachms.
Cayenne pepper, one drachm.
Pound them in a mortar, arid pass them through
a fine hair sieve : bottle them for use. The above
articles will pound much easier and finer if they
are dried first in a Dutch oven before a very gentle
fire, at a good distance from it : if you give them
much heat, all the finest flavour of them will be
evaporated, and they "will soon get a strong rank
taste.
Obs. The spices in a ragout are indispens-
able to give it a flavour, but not a predominant one ;
their presence should be rather supposed than
perceived; they are the invisible spirit of good
cookery, and that happy mixture of them, and
proportion to each other of the other ingredients
\vhich produces an exquisitely delicious, yet inde-
finable flavour, is the u chef-d'oeuvre" of a first
rate cook. But this grand art of mixing and com-
o 4
FAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
bining- spices, &c,, no one hitherto has attempted
to teach : this is the first practical work on the
subject, -wherein the receipts are given accu-
rately by weight and measure.
PEA POWDER. (No. 458.)
Rub together in a marble mortar equal parts
of dried mint and sage; put them through a fine
sieve, and send it up on a small plate, with green
pease, or pease-soup.
Obs. A twelfth part of celery seed powdered
may be added, if the flavour of celery is approved.
Soup-herb Powder, or Vegetable Relish.
(No. 459.)
Of dried parsley, two ounces.
Winter-savory, one ounce.
Sweet marjoram, one ounce*
Lemon-thyme, one ounce.
Lemon-peel, cut very thin and dried, one ounce*
Sweet basil, half an ounce.
%* Some add to the above, bay leaves and celery seed, a
drachm each.
Dry them in a warm, but not too hot Dutch oven i
when quite dried, pound them in a mortar, and
pass them through a double hair sieve : put in a
bottle closely stopped, and it will retain its fra-
grance and flavour for a twelvemonth.
23
Obs- This composition of the fine aromatic
herbs, is a most invaluable acquisition to the
cook : it is much preferable to the spice powder,
as it impregnates sauce, soup, &c. with as much
relish, and renders it equally agreeable to the
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
palate, refreshing the gustatory nerves, without
offending the stomach, &c.
SOUP-HERB AND SAVOURY POW-
DER, OR QUINTESSENCE OF
RAGOUT. (No. 460.)
Take three parts of soup-herb powder to one
part of savoury powder.
Ob$. These powders should be kept ready
prepared ; they will save a great deal of time in
cooking ragouts, stuffings, forcemeat-balls, soups,
sauces, &c, ; kept dry and tightly corked down,
their fragrance and strength may be preserved
undiminished for several years.
TO PRESERVE SWEET AND SA-
VOURY HERBS. (No. 461.)
for the following accurate and valuable infor~
^nation , the reader is indebted to Mr. BUTLER,
Herbalist and Seedsman, opposite Henrietta
Street, Covent Garden Market, where the several
articles may be obtained of the best quality, at
the fair market price.
It is very important to those who are not in the
constant habit of attending the markets, to know
when the various seasons commence for purchas-
ing sweet herbs, &c., so necessary to be preserved
when in the highest state of perfection : these are
fullest of flavour just before they begin to flower s
the first and last crop have neither the fine flavour
nor the perfume of those which are gathered in
the height of the season ; that is, when the greater
part of the crop of each species is ripe at the
same period ; take care they are gathered on a
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
dry day, by which means they TV ill have a bet-
ter colour when dry. Cleanse your herbs well
from dirt and dust, cut off the roots, separate the
bunches into smaller ones, and hang them across
ti line in the kitchen, where there is a moderate
heat, which will dry them in an excellent manner :
when perfectly dry, put them in bags, and lay
them by on a shelf in the kitchen, they will keep
good for twelve months, and be ready in the
moment when wanted ; or rub them off the stalks
and put them through a hair sieve, and put the
powder into well stopped bottles : by this means
their flavour is still better preserved. I would
recommend parsley and fennel to be dried rather
quicker than the other heri3s, and rubbed clean
from the stalks before they are bagged : these are
not generally dried, but those who have experi-
enced the goodness of them in this state, will not
willingly omit preserving them.
BASIL is in the best state for drying from the
middle of August, and three weeks after.
KNOTTED MARJORAM, from the beginning of
July, and during the same.
WINTER SAVORY, the latter end of July and
throughout August.
SUMMER SAVORY, the latter end of July, and
throughout August.
THYME,
LEMON-THYME,
ORANGE THYME*, during June and July.
MINT, latter part of June, and during July.
SAGE, August and September.
TARRAGON, June, July, August.
* A very delicious herb, that deserves to be better known.
SAUCES, G II A VI E S , &C.
* t 9
CHERVIL, May, June, July.
BURNET, June, July, August.
PARSLEY, May, June, July.
FENNEL, May, June, July.
ELDER FLOWERS, May, June, July.
ORANGE FLOWERS, May, June, July.
PICKLES. (No. 462.)
Commencing this list with walnuts, I must fake
this opportunity of impressing the necessity of
being strictly particular in watching the time, for
of all the variety of articles required in this depart-
ment, to furnish the well regulated store-room,
nothing is so precarious, for frequently after the
.first week that walnuts come in season they be-
come hard and shelled, particularly if the season
is a very hot one, therefore let the prudent house-
keeper consider it indispensably necessary they
should be purchased as soon as they first appear
at market; should they cost a trifle more, that is
nothing compared to the disappointment of rind-
ing six months hence, when you go to your pickle
jar expecting a fine relish for your chops, &c., to
find mils incased in a shell, that defies both teeth
and steel : I therefore recommend looking for them
from the twelfth of July ; that being, 1 may say,
the earliest possible time.
NASTURTIUMS are to be had by the middle of
July.
ONIONS, the various kinds for pickling, are to
be had by the middle of July, and for a
month after.
GHERKINS are to be had by the middle of
July, and for a month after.
SAUCES, -GRAVIES, &C,
CUCUMBERS are to be had by the middle of
July, and for a month after.
MELONS for MANGOES are to be had by the mid-
dle of July, and for a month after.
CAPSICUMS, green, red, and yellow, the end of
July, and following month.
CHILLIES, the end of July, and following
month.
LOVE APPLES, or TOMATAS, end of July, and
throughout August.
t^j t^
CAULIFLOWER, for pickling 1 , July and August.
ARTICHOKES, for pickling, July and August.
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, for pickling, July
and August, and for three months after*
RADISH PODS, for pickling, July.
FRENCH BEANS, for pickling, July.
MUSHROOMS, for pickling and catsup, Sep*
tember.
RED CABBAGE, August.
WHITE CABBAGE, September and October*
SAMPHIRE, August.
THE MAGAZINE OF TASTE.
(No. 463.)
Tli is incomparable auxiliary to the cook \ve
have several times made mention of in the course
of our work. The following sketch will enable
any one to fit up an assortment of flavouring ma-
terials according to their own fancy and palate,
and, we presume, will furnish sufficient variety
for the thorough-bred gourmand^ and consists
of a mahogany " sauce box," with four eight
ounce bottles, sixteen four ounce bottles, and
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
eight two ounce bottles, containing the following
ingredients.
1 Pickles. 20 Soup-herb powder,
2 Brandy. 459.
3 Curasao.
4: Syrup.
6 Salad sauce, 452,
and 453.
6 Pudding catsup,
446.
7 Double relish.
8 Walnut pickle.
9 Mushroom catsup.
10 Vinegar.
11 Oil.
12 Mustard.
13 Salt.
14 Curry powder,
15 Soy, 436, ^
16 Lemon juice*
17 Cavice.
18 Pepper.
19 Cayenne.
Ragout powder.
457.
22 Pea powder, 458,
23 Zest, 255.
24 Essence of celery,
409.
25 Sweet herbs, 419,
26 Lemon-peel, 408.
27 Eshallot, 402.
28 Powdered mint.
In a draicer under,
Haifa dozen one ounce
bottles.
Weights and scales,
Measures.
Corkscrew.
Nut meg grater.
Table and teaspoon.
Knife arid fork, and
Small mortar,
1
5
13
21
6
14
22
Q
j6t
7
IT
15
IT
23
I^T
3
9
To"
17
liT
25
~26~
4
11
TF
19
"SO*
27
Its'
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
Toast and Water. (No. 463.*)
Take a slice of a stale loaf, about the thickness
toast is usually cut; toast it carefully until it be
completely browned all orer, but not at all black-
ened or burnt: put this in a jug, and pour upon
it as much clean boiling water as you wish to
make into drink, cover i he jug with a saucer or
plate, and let it stand till it is quite cold : the
fresher it is made the better, and more agreeable.
Or,
To make it more expeditionsly, lay a slice of
bread, a quarter of an inch thick, in a cheese-
toaster before the fire, till it is brown through ;
put it into a mug, and just cover it with boiling
water ; let it stand till cold, then fill it up with cold
spring water, and strain it through a fine sieve.
Obs> The above will be found a pleasant,
light, and excellent beverage at meals.
Cool Tankard, or Beer Cup. . (No. 464.)
A quart of mild ale, two glasses of white wine,
one glass of brandy, one of capillaire, the juice of
a lemon, and nutmeg grated oa the top, and a
sprig of borrage* or balm.
" Borrage is one of the four cordial flowers ;" it comforts
the heart, cheers melancholy, and revives the fainting spirits,
says Salmon in the 45th page of his " Household Compa-
nion" London, 1710. Combined with the other ingredients
in the above receipt, we have frequently observed it produce
all the cardiac and exhilarating eiitcts ascribed to it by
Dr. S.
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
Cider Cup (No. 465.)
Is the same, only substituting the cider for the
beer.
Flip. (No. 466.)
Beat two eggs for about ten minutes, mix half
a tablespoonful of moist sugar, and as much
grated nutmeg as will lie on a shilling. Put a
pint of ale into a saucepan ; when it is hot, pour
it into a basin to the ea'ffs, &c., aad back as:ain
w iJ * C*
into the saucepan, and back again three or four
times, till it is quite smooth.
Tewahdiddle. (No. 467.)
A pint of table beer, a tablespoonful of brandy,
two teaspoonsful of brown sugar, or clarified syrup;
a little grated nutmeg or ginger may be added,
and a roll of lemon-peel.
Obs Before our readers make any remarks on
this composition, we beg of them to taste it ; and
if their palate does not differ very much from that
of its inventor, they will find it one of the most
delicious beverages they ever put to their lips.
To bottle Beer. (No. 468.)
When the briskness and liveliness of malt
liquors in the cask fail, and they begin to turn
dead and vapid, let them be bottled; be careful
to use clean and dried bottles , leave them un-
SAUCES, GRAVIES,
stopped for twelve hours, and then cork them as
closely as possible witli good and sound new
corks ; put a bit of lump sugar as big as a nutmeg
into each bottle j it will be ripe, i. e. fine and
sparkling, in about six weeks, if the weather is
cold : to put it up, the day before it is to be drank
place it in a room where there is a fire.
fc% If the beer becomes too hard or stale, a few grains of salt
ofzcortmcood added to it at the lime it is drank, mil very
much recover it to its original state.
Rich Raspberry Wine or Brandy. (No. 469.)
Bruise the finest ripe raspberries with the back
of a spoon, strain them through a flannel bag into
a stone jar, allowing a pound of line powdered
loaf sugar to each quart of juice ; stir well toge-
ther, and cover it down ; let it stand for three
days, stirring it up each day; pour off the clear,
and put two quarts of sherry or Cogniac brandy
to each quart of juice : bottle it off: it will be fit
for the glass in a fortnight.
Punch. (No. 470.)
The grand secret, or rather art, of making
genuine British punch, consists in the preparation
of a rich and delicate sherbets this being accom-
plished, with the addition of the best Jamaica
rum, or French brandy, and pure hot or cold
water 5 the mixture may be too strong or too
weak, but cannot possibly prove bad punch.
In preparing sherbet for punch, the acids of
cream of tartar, tamarinds, and various other pre
SAUCES, GRAVIES) &(J.
pared vegetable acids, as well as that particularly
denominated citric acid 5 are occasionally em-
ployed ; but, perhaps, after all, the juices of
limes, lemons, and Seville oranges, expressed
from the fresh fruits, when attainable, make the
sort of sherbet which seems most congenial with
the nature of good British punch.
Procure a couple of ripe, sound, and fresh
lemons, or limes, and a Seville orange ; rub off
the yellow rind of one of the lemons with lumps of
fine loaf sugar, putting each lump into the bowl
as soon as it is saturated or cloaked with the
^ CD
essence or grated rind ; then thinly pare the
other lemon and Seville orange, and put these
rinds also into the bowl, to which add plenty of
sugar ; pour a very small quantity of boiling water,
and immediately squeeze the juice of the fruit, fol-
lowed by a little more hot water. Incorporate the
whole well together with a punch ladle ; p.:.. 1 put-
ting a little of the sherbet thus composed,*' -fy its
richness and flavour by the palate. If the fruit be
good, a practised punch maker will find little
which requires to be regulated, and that little can
soon be adjusted by supplying the aqueous, sac-
charine, or acid deficiencies, so as to produce a
luscious and rich bodied sherbet, fit for the re-
ception of the sjjirit which is to give it animation.
If straining should be found necessary, this is the
period for using a lawn sieve, through which a
little more hot water may afterwards be passed ;
and a few parings of the orange or lemon rind are
generally considered as having an agreeable ap-
pearance floating in the bowl. The sherbet being
thus prepared, to make it into genuine British
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
punch, spirit should be added in the proportions
of a bottle of the best Jamaica rum to every pint
of the finest Cogniac brandy : the entire strength
or weakness may be suited to the general inclina-
tion of the company for which it is prepared.
The above quantity of fruit, with about three
quarters of a pound of sugar, will make sufficient
sherbet for three quarts of punch.
Pine apple rum, and capillaire syrnp instead of
part of the sugar, may be used, if convenient,
with considerable advantage to the flavour;
though it \vill prove excellent punch without
cither of these auxiliaries, or even Seville orange.
The same sort of sherbet may, of course, be used
for brandy punch, or rum punch singly ; but
punch is seldom so made in England : most per-
sons indeed mix equal parts of rum and brandy.
-Arrack punch, however, is always made with that
sp'.rit alone, and usually with a simple sherbet of
lime or lemon juice, with sugar, as the flavour of
the Seville orange interferes too much with the pe-
culiar flavour of the arrack, which proves so grate-
ful to most tastes, though to many very unpleasant.
When with the richest sherbet, sometimes render-
ed still richer by fruit jellies, and even nutmeg,
wine is mingled with the rum and brandy instead
of water, the liquor is called punch royal.
The mixture of a small quantity of ale or porter,
highly recommended by some in making punch,
seems only advisable when it is rum punch, made
without any brandy, and must, even then, be
very sparingly introduced. This article, what-
ever may appear its value, is furnished, with re-
gard to its principles; by one of the first practical
SAUCES, GRAVIES,' &C.
punch makers in Europe ; who could easily, by
dwelling on minute circumstances, have supplied
matter for a small volume ; the essence of which
is, however, he freely confesses, here sufficiently
concentrated for every useful purpose.
With regard to the salubrity of punch, when
drank in moderation, hot in winter, or cold,
and even iced in summer, it affords a most grateful
beverage; admirably allaying thirst, promoting
the secretions, and conveying animation to the
spirits. If, however, amid the hilarity excited
by the tempting fragrance, and luscious taste,
which the balmy bowl seldom fails to inspire, it
be too freely and too habitually drank, its power-
ful combination of spirit and acid, instead of
proving favourable to the constitution, will infalli-
bly tend to bring on the gout, even sooner than
most wines or strong cider, unless happily pre-
vented by using a considerable deal of exercise.
Punch, like all the prime blessings of life, is
excellent, and even salutary, when prudently en-
joyed at proper seasons. We must not charge on
them pur own want of discretion, by which alone
they are ever converted to evils.
The apparently whimsical English name of
punch, like the liquor itself, is of West-India
origin, the word in the aboriginal language sig-
nifying simply five, being the number of ingre-
dients there used : viz. 1, acid, or lime, or lemon
juice ; 2, sweetness or sugar ; 3, spirit or rum,
&c. ; 4, water ; and 5, spicy flavour, or nutmeg,
&c. It is singular, too, that punch, the word for
five, consists of just h've letters.
From the opposite natures of the several ingre-
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
dients, punch has also been sometimes called the
liquor of contradictions.
%* For this very elaborate receipt I am indebted to that ex-
cellent zcork, " The Family Receipt Book," 4to. London :
printed for Oddy and Co., Oxford Street, London, which is
certainly the best collection I have seen, and deserves a
place in every steward's room, as should also " Appert's Art
of Preserving Animal and Vegetable Substances."
Fine Red Ratifia. (No. 471.)
Mash together in a tub or pan, three pounds of
black cherries, two of ripe red gooseberries, and
one of raspberries, or mulberries ; mix with these
a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, and twenty-
four cherry kernels, previously well pounded in
a mortar, with a pint of syrup : put all into a jar,
stop it close, and keep it for ten days in a heat of
about ninety degrees of Fahrenheit's thermome-
ter : then press it through a clean napkin, let it
stand twenty-four hours, and add to each quart of
juice a pint of good brandy ; next day strain it
through a flannel bag, that it may be quite clear,
Obs* The French liqueurs are in general
very badly imitated here, from our substituting
bitter almonds for peach and apricot kernels, and
common proof spirit for their fine Cogniac brandy.
Cherry Brandy. (No. 472.)
To a pound of ripe Morella cherries mashed
well with your hands, add a quart of brandy ; let
them steep for three days, then press the liquor
through a napkin ; sweeten it with goodlump
sugar, let it stand a week in a covered vessel,
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
and then bottle it. This is also the best way of
making
Raspberry Brandy. (No. 473<)
Curacao. (No. 474.)
Pour half a pint of boiling water on three
ounces of fine thin cut Seville orange-peel that has
been dried and pounded in a marble mortar; stop it
close : when it is cold, add to it a quart of brand j^ ;
let it steep fourteen days : decant it clear, and
add to it a quarter pint of clarified sugar; to pre-
pare which, see the next receipt.
Obs. This is the best way of making this
best of liqueurs, which is not merely an agreeable
cordial, but an essential friend to the stomach.
Clarified Syrup. (No. 475.)
Put a pound and three quarters (avoirdupois)
of fine lump sugar into a clean stewpan, that is
well tinned, with one pint of cold spring water,
and set it over a moderate fire : beat about the
sixth part of the white of an egg with a table-
spoonful of cold water ; put it to the sugar before
it gets warm, and stir it well together. Watch it,
and when it boils take off the scum ; and keep it
boiling till no scum rises: when it is perfectly
clear, run it through a silk sieve, or a clean napkin :
put it into a close stopped bottle ; it will keep for
months, and is an elegant article on the side-
board for sweetenings.
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
Capillaire. (No. 476.)
To a pint of clarified syrup add a wineglass of
Curasao.
Lemonade in a Minute. (No. 477.)
Dissolve three quarters of an ounce (avoirdu-
pois) of pulverized crystallized lemon acid (with a
few drops of quintessence of lemon-peel, No. 408,)
in a pint of clarified syrup. Two tablespoonsful
of this in a pint of water will immediately produce
the most agreeable sherbet ; the addition of rum or
brandy will convert this into
Punch directly. (No. 478.)
Shrub. (No. 479.)
A quart of brandy, diluted with the expressed
filtered juice of two Seville oranges, and the peel
of half a one steeped for three days, and half a
pound of lump sugar then added to it, and then
strained through flannel, produces this very
palatable but seductive liquor, incomparably
more tempting and insinuating than any of the
simple spirits, because, in combination with sweet
ingredients, it imperceptibly stimulates, and gra-
dually impairs the digestive organs.
Mock Arrack. (No. 480.)
Dissolve two scruples of flowers of benjamin in
SAUCES, GRAVIES, &C.
a quart of good rum, and it will give it the
flavour of the finest arrack.
*
Spirituous Syrup of Tea. (No. 48 1 .)
Pour a quarter pint of water on three ounces,
avoirdupois weight, of fine young hyson; let it
stand an hour, and add to it a pint of brandy, or
proof spirit ; let it steep for ten days, shaking it up
every day ; strain it, and sweeten it with strong
clarified syrup.
Obs. A teaspoonful or two of this in a tumbler
of water, is a very refreshing beverage in summer.
MADE DISHES.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
UNDER this general head we range our
receipts for hashes, stews, fricasees, and 'ra-
gouts * : of these there are a great multitude,
affording the ingenious cook an inexhaustible
store of very rich and pleasing variety : we have
very few general observations to make, after what
we have already said in the chapter of gravies,
sauces, soups, &c., which apply to the pre-
sent chapter, as they form the principal part of
the accompaniment of most of these dishes. We
have given receipts for the most easy and simple
way to make hashes, &c. ; for only those who are
well skilled in culinary arts know how good
things may be dressed up in this way, so as to be
* Gravy for ragouts, c., should be thickened till it is
of the consistence of good rich cream. When you havealarge
dinner to dress, always keep ready mixed some fine sifted
flour and water well ruhhed together till quite smooth and
about_as thick as batter.
MADE DISHES.
as agreeable and nutritious as they were the first
time they were cooked ; the main business
of my booh being to increase the comforts of
moderate families and moderate fortunes. I
have also given directions for preparing the
more composite and elaborate made dishes, still
keeping constantly in mind, no! to make either
the stomach or the purse suffer for the plea-
sure of the palate ; endeavouring to hold the
balance even, between the agreeable and the
wholesome, and the epicure and the economist.
This is by no means so difficult a task as some
gloomy philosophers (uninitiated in culinary sci-
ence,) have tried to make the world believe,
whose leading doctrines are, that every thing that
is nice must be noxious, and every thing that is
nasty must be wholesome. But as Shakspeare
could never find a philosopher who could endure
the tooth-ach patiently, so I have never met with
a philosopher who did not love a feast.
I promise those who do me the honour to put
my receipts into practice, they will find that the
most agreeable arid truly elegant dishes are not
always the most difficult to dress, the most expen-
sive, or the most indigestible : be it known to all
whom it may concern, that in these compositions
knowledge will go farther than expense; and if
MADE DISHES.
some of my receipts appear to differ a little from
preceding or co-temporary cookery-book-makers,
let it be remembered, J have advanced nothing in
this work that I have not tried, and hud fre-
quent experience of its success.
While we are contriving to <rive every ^ratifi-
Cj ~ * 7 ~
cation in the utmost perfection to the lover of
good eating, we have not put any temptations in
the way of the valetudinarian that he may not
occasionally partake of, not only with impunity,
but with advantage : the infirm stomachs of inva-
lids sometimes require a little indulgence, and
like other bad instruments want oiling, and screw-
ing, and winding up, and adjusting with the
utmost care, to keep them in tolerable order ;
they will receive the most salutary stimulus from
now and (hen making a full meal of a favourite
dish. I believe this is not a singular notion of
my own, (or a good word for my fellow spit-mates,)
though it may not exactly agree with the present
fastidious fancy of some of the faculty, that starva-
tion is the sovereign remedy for all disorders.
As abundance of eating and drinking is perhaps
one of the most frequent causes of the disorders
of the rich, so privation is the common source of
complaints among the poor ; and the cause of the
one is the cure of the other : still 1 hold it lawful
HADE DISHES.
to excite the blunted palate, when enfeebled by
age, or indisposition, luxurious living, or intem-
perance ; and an healthful impetus may be given
to the system by the help of a favourite soup or
ragout*, at less expense to the machinery of life
than by the use of those spirituous stimuli t,
* Good Mock Turtle, (see No. 216, or 246*,) will agree
with weak stomachs surprisingly well. This excellent soup
is frequently ordered for dyspeptic patients by the senior phy-
sician to one of the largest hospitals in this metropolis : as a
man of science and talent, certainly in as high estimation as
anj of his medical cotemponiries.
f The following observations are extracted from Dr.
" REECE'S Gazette of Health."
All wines naturally possess a proportion of alcohol (ar-
dent spirit) ; but to the foreign wines a quantity is added, to
prevent their running into the acetous fermentation during
the voyage to this country, and this is proportioned to
the quality of the wine. In order, therefore, to ascertain the
quantity which the different wines contain on an average, the
experiments have been made on wines from different vendors.
Brandy and rum are sold at different degrees of strength ; in-
deed, some termed white brandy and white rum, are highly
rectified. The brandy and rum employed in the following
experiments were obtained from a respectable wine mer-
chant, who was desired to send samples of the articles as
generally sold to the public.
A bottle of port wine, containing twenty-six ounces, which
had been in bottle seven years, produced two ounces and
seven drachms of alcohol (ardent spirit).
MADE DISHES.
that merely fan a, feverish fire by inflaming (he
circulation for a few minutes, without, at the
same time, contributing any fuel to feed the lamp
of life, which, if its construction be organically
defective, or is impaired by the wear and tear of
time or disease, will sometimes not burn brightly,
unless it is supplied with the best oil, and <rim-
med in the most skilful manner. None but the
most obstinately ignorant visionary would dream
A bottle of port wine, containing twenty-five ounces and a
half, (one year in bottle, and two years in wood,) two ounces
and six drachms.
A bottle of pale sherry, three years old, containing twenty-
five ounces, produced three ounces.
A bottle of Madeira, two years old, containing twenty-five
unces and a half, two ounces and five drachms.
A bottle of Cape Madeira, one year old, containing twenty-
five ounces, two ounces and a half.
A bottle of old hoc, containing twenty-one ounces, nearly
an ounce.
A bottle of brandy, containing twenty-four ounces, ten
ounces.
A bottle of rum, containing twenty-four and a half
ounces, nine ounces and a half.
A quart of public-house ale (not bottled), from the brewery
of Mr. Wyatt, one ounce.
From a quart of common draught porter, from the brewery
of Messrs. Elliot and Co., five and a half drachms.
From the foregoing results, it appears that four bottles,
MADE DISHES.
of laying do&n rules for governing the caprice
and whims of the infirm stomachs of crazy in-
valids. Here all the codes of dietetics fail, and
the suggestions of reason are commonly in di-
rect opposition to the desires of appetite. In all
matters of importance regarding the adjustment of
this most supreme organ of existence, honest in-
stinct comes a volunteer, and nine times out of
ten makes out a fair title to be called u unerring*.'*
CD
either of port, sherry, or Madeira, contain more ardent spirit
than a bottle of brandy.
Three bottles of sherry are nearly equal to one bottle of rum.
That ten bottles of hock, or ten quarts of ale, or about
fourteen and a half quarts of porter, are equal to a bottle of
brandy.
* " As to the quality of food, though whatever is easy of
digestion, singly considered, deserves the preference; yet,
regard must be had to the palate and appetite, because it is
frequently found, that what the stomach earnestly covets,
though of difficult digestion, does nevertheless digest better,
than what is esteemed of easier digestion if the stomach
nauseates it : I am of opinion the patient ought to eat only of
one dish at a meal." Vide SYDENHAM'S Treatise on Gout.
" My appetite is in several things of itself happily enough
accommodated to the health of my stomach : whatever I take
against my liking does me harm; but nothing hurts me that
I eat with appetite and delight." Vide honest MONTAIGNE'S
Essay on Experience, book iii. chap. 13.
" The taste, considered superficially, would seem to be a
MADE DISHES.
.A little respect to the suggestions of instinct,
every invalid will find of infinite advantage :
those who are poor in health, must live as they
can : certainly the less stimuli any of us u^e, the
sensation peculiar to the mouth, and distinct from that of
hunger or thirst. But, if we trace its origin, we shall be
convinced that this organ, which in the mouth makes us sen-
sible of the fitness and delicacy of meats- ami drinks, is the
selfsame principle, that in the mouth, gullet, and stomach, is
craving for food, and incites us to a longing after it. These
three parts, properly speaking, are but one continued organ,,
and have but one and the same object. If the mouth cre-
ates in us an aversion to any particular food, does not the
gullet recoil at the approach of it ? and does not the sto-
mach immediately discharge its disagreeable contents ?
Hunger, thirst, and taste, are therefore three effects of the
same organ. Hunger and thirst are the motions of the
organ desirous of its object. The taste is the motion of
the organ, in the enjoyment of this object. This unity of the
organ, in regard of hunger, thirst, and taste, is the cause of!
these three effects bting almost always in the same propor-
tion in the same persons. The more violent the appetite for
food is, the greater is the enjoyment in. eating;, and the more
the taste is gratified, the more easily the organs defray the
expense of this gratification, by digestion. This rule is gene-
ral, in regard of all the sensations and all the passions.
Genuine desire constitutes the proportion of the pleasure,.
and of the power without this mutual consent, founded on the
sympathy of these organs, our sensations would destroy that
MADE DISHES.
better; and those combinations which excite the
circulation at the least expense of nervous and mus-
cular irritation, and afford the greatest por(ion of
nourishment, must be most friendly to the stomach,
when it demands restorative die*.
If strong spices and savoury herbs awaken (he
appetite, they in an increased ratio accelerate the
action of the bowels, and prematurely hurry the
food through, the alimentary canal, too rapidly to
allow the absorbents to do their work properly.
We advise those whose stomachs stand in need of
such artificial stimulants, if they value either in-
tensive or extensive life, rather to abstain from
dishes requiring a vigorous stomach, than resort to
such pernicious means of forcing the action of a
feeble one : moreover, by the too frequent use of
piquante sauces, &c., the papillary nerves of the
palate become so blunted, that in a little time they
lose all sensibility and relish for plain nourishing
being, for whose benefit they are established. It is very natu-
ral that the mouth, which first receives the aliment, and of
course becomes the taster, as it were, in respect of the gullet
and stomach, should he endued with a discerning property
beyond them ; as it is the part of a good clerk of the kitchen
to distinguish himself by an elegant choice of provisions, to
prevent his incurring the disp'eisure of his employers.''
Vide the ingenious L,E CAS'S Essay on the Senses.
MADE DISHES.
food, and the sensualist is punished with all the suf-
ferings of incessant and incurable indigestion, per-
turbed sleep, and the horrors of the night mare,
&c &c. : however, enough has been written a
' O
thousand times over, by a thousand cautionists, to
convince anv rational creature of the advantages re-
*>
suiting to both body and mind from a simple and
frugal fare : the great secret of health and lon-
gevity is to keep up the sensibility of the stomach.
It is highly gratifying to me, to find my senti-
ments so frequently in unison with those of the
editor of the " Almanack des Gourmands" indis-
putably the best written book on the sai'tir vivre 9
and which I had not met with till my own work was
nearly ready to go to press. In the 5th volume,
pnge 195, speaking of the immoderate use of
spices, &c. he snys : u The stomach, the bowels,
the liver, and the other viscera, soon become
affected with many unmanageable maladies,
against which all the skill of Esculapius will
avail nothing. Seek appetite, then, from air and
exercise, rather than from the excessive use of
exotic stimulants, especially the inflammatory
spices, which arc burning as the sun which
produces them ; and however medicinal or ali-
mentary they may be to the inhabitants of the
tropics, to us are absolute poisons."
MADE DISHES,
Hash Mutton. (No. 484.)
CUT the meat you intend to hash into large
handsome slices, about a quarter of an inch thick,
(not more,) lay them on a plate, ready ; make
your sauce as receipt, No. 360; put in the meat,
and let it simmer gently about twcnfy minutes;
do not let it boil, as that will make your meat
gro\v tough ami hard*.
To warm up Hashes, (No. 485.)
Stews, ragouts, soups, &c. If you have any
left, put it into a deep hash dish, or tureen : when
you want it, set this in a stewpan of boiling water;
let it stand till the contents are quite .hot ; it will
eat as well as when first made.
* All hashes and meats dressed a second time, should only
simmer till just warm through : it is supposed they have been
done very nearly, if not quite enough, already: though you
will, of course, select those parts of the joint that have been
least done. In making a hash from a leg of mutton, do not
destroy the marrow-bone to help the gravy of your hash, to
which it will make no perceptible addition ; but saw it in two,
twist writing paper round the ends, and sejid it up- on a
plate as aside dish, garnished with sprigs of parsley : if it is
a roast leg, preserve the END BONE, and send itup between the
marrow bones. This is a very pretty luncheon or supper dish.
p 5
HADE DISHES.
Hash Beef (No. 486.)
Is prepared and warmed in the same sauce as
hashed mutton.
Cold Meat Broiled, with Poached Eggs.
(No. 487.)
Cut some slices of mutton, or beef, and broiF
them carefully : when done, lay them in a
dish before the fire to keep hot r while you poach
your e<rgs.
'1 his makes an excellent luncheon or supper.
Mushroom catsup and melted butter for sauce^,-
with a few drops of shallot wine or vinegar in it.
Irish Stew*. (No. 488.)
Cut a neck or breast of mutton into chops ;
slice a pound of potatoes to each pound of meat,
and put in very linfe water, because the potatoes
Trill supply enough ; put in no herbs, but a bunch
of thyme; cover it clos ", so that no steam can
evaporate, and let it just simmer lor an hour and
a half.
Obs. Two onions may be added to eaclt
pound of meat.
* In all stews and made dishes, take care the meat does*
not go to rags, by doing too fust*
MADE DISHES.
iarrico Mutton or Lamb. (No. 489-)
Cut (he best end of a neck of mutton into chops,
one rib to each ; trim off part of the fat, and ihe
lower end of the chine bone; lay them in an iron
fryingpan over a veri/ smart Jire, and fry tl'em for
a couple of minules : it your fire is iiof slnrp,
the chops will be done before they are coloured :
the intention of* frying (liem is merely to <r/te ilicm
v * l -*
a browning. Take (hem out of (he frvinapan and
O +*
lay them in a clean stewpan, (lined \\ith (bin slices
of bacon,) just big enough to hold them without lay-
ing them one on another; put a tablespoonfnl of oat-
meal and one of flour to the gravy (he chops were
fried in ? with a pint and a half of boiling water :
when it has boiled up for two minutes, pour ii into
the stewpan to the chops, with a larse onion, half a
carrot, and a couple of turnips, all cut info pieces,
vvith half a teagpoonful of salt, and a quarter of a,
feuspoonful of ground Mnck popper; cover them
close down, and lef them simmer very gently on
a slow fire till (he chops are thofpughly tendei* :
this may take an hour and a half, or two hours :
be very careful they are not stewed too- much, so
take one ot the chops up uith your n>li slice and
try it : v, lien done, take them o-ut and lay (hem
round a dish big enough to hold them without
laying thvm over each other, and leave a spnce
in the middle to receive the carrois, turnip, &c.
Have ready boiled tvto dozen round young onions,
If they are stewerl too much they are spoiled, nml no
more fit to eat than meat that has been boiled down tor
gravy,
MADE DISHES,
about as big as nutmegs, five ounces of carrots
cut into slices, or shaped into balls as you please,
and twelve ounces of turnips divided into pieces
about as big as a nutmeg ; have them drained dry,
put them into a clean stewpan, ancl strain to them
the gravy the cutlets were stewed in : when your
carrots and turnips are hot, put them in the
middle of the dish of chops, and serve up.
Obs. Rump steaks, veal cutlets, and beef
tails, make excellent dishes dressed in the like
manner.
Stewed Mutton Chops. (No. 490.)
Put them into a stewpan with water enough to
cover them well, an onion cut in quarters, three
corns of black pepper, and alitte salt ; cover the
pan close, and set it over a very slow fire for half
an hour: lay them in a dish, and pour over them
the liquor they were stewed in. Send up turnips
\vith them, and caper sauce.
Shoulder of Lamb Grilled. (No. 491.)
Roast it till almost done, then score it in
cliecquers about an inch square, rub it over with
the yolk of egg, pepper and salt it, strew it
with bread crumbs and dried parsley, and broil it
over a clear fire till it is nicely browned ; make a
sauce for it of flour and water well mixed toge-
ther with an ounce of fresh butter, a tablespoon-
ful of mushroom or walnut catsup ? and the juice
of half a lemon,
MADE DISHES.
Lamb's Fry. (No. 492.)
Parboil it, wash, and wipe it dry, dip it in an
egg well beaten on a plate, and strew some fine
stale bread crumbs over it ; fry it in boiling lard,
and garnish with fried or crisp parsley.
Or,
Instead of ein<r an( l bread crumbing it, flour
o r^ d? ^j '
it, and fry it in batter, and powder it with a little
pepper and salt.
Shin of Beef Stewed. (No. 493.)
Crack the bone in two or three places, put it
into a stewpan with three quarts of water, a bundle
of sweet herbs, a large onion with fourcloves stuck
in it, three carrots, a head of celery, a dozen berries
of black pepper, and the same of allspice : stew
very gently over a slow fire for five hours : when
the carrots are done, take them out and cut them
into small squares ; peel and cut ready a couple
of turnips, and a couple of dozen of small young
onions ; boil them till tender in a pint of the
liquor the beef was stewed in: when the beef is
quite tender take it out carefully with a slice, and
put it on a dish while you thicken your gravy :
to do this, mix three tablespoonsful of flour with
a teacupful of the beef liquor ; stir this thoroughly
into the rest of the beef liquor, let it boil up for
ten minutes, scum off the fat, strain it through a-
sieve,, put your vegetables in to warm; season
MADE DISHED
with pepper, salt, and a wineglass of mushroom
catsup, and pour it over the beef.
Send up Wow Wow sauce, No. 328, in a boaU
Brisket of Beef Stezved. (No. 494.)
This is prepared in exactly the same way as
" soup and bouillL" See No. 5
HtirricotofBeef. (No. 495 )
A stewed brisket cut in slices, and sent up witli
the same sauce of roots, &c., as we have directed
for harricot of mutton, is a most excellent dish 5 , of
Tviy moderate expense-
Hunters Beef. (No. 496.)
A round of beef that weighs twenty-five pounds
should hang two or three days ; then take three
ounces of saltpetre, one ounce of coarse sugar,
halt an ounce of cloves pounded small, half a
pound of common salt; incorporate these ingre-
dients by rubbing them together in a marble mor-
tar; then take the bone out, and rub the meat
well \vith the above mixture, turning it and rub-
bing it every day for a fortnight.
\\hen you dress it, dip it into cold water to
take oil the loose spice ; bind it up tight with tape
to preserve its form, and put it in'oa pan with one
teacupful of water, and two of red port wine;
cover the meat with plenty of fine chopped sqef,
and an onion or two minced small ; cover the/
whole witlj a flour crust to the top or brim of the
MADE DISHES.
pan, and let it be baked in six hours. If the beef
weighs more, put a proportionate addition of all the
ingredients. The gravy you will find a strong
consomme, and will make excellent sauce or soup,,
and being impregnated with salt, will keep
several days. The meat must be cut with a very
sharp knife to prevent waste r and keep it even
and comely to the eye. It is a most excellent
stan liny dish, and tor sandwiches-: eaten will*
c^ /
good vinegar and mustard it is equal to the best
bnnvn, and is one of the economical, yet elegant
articles of ready dressed keeping provisions*
Ragout of Beef. (No. 497.)
Beef for ragooing must be .without bone; the
rump is excellent : a piece of the thick flank is
frequently used for this purpose, or any olher that
is 11 meat, and hxis some fat to it ; it should be a
thick short piece.
When the beef is ready, make same gravy in
the following manner - r take a pound and a half of
some ordinary piece of beef, and a quarter of a
pound of bacon cut inlo thin slices and lay the ba-
con in some vinegar till I he follow ing ingredients are
ready: cut an onion and a shallot into ihin slices,,
pick off the leaves of a sprig of thyme and of win-
ter-^vory; to these put a carrot split, &C.,.
three blades of mace, a feaspoonful of bay salf,
four cloves, and a little pepper : put in all these^
with the sliced beef arid bacon, into a quart of
wafer, and let them boii very slowly (ill it comes
to a pint; toward the end put in a good tiast,
brown and hurd 3 but not burnt; give it u boil up,
MADE DISHES.
and strain off (lie gravy. Now flour the piece oF
beef, and putting it into a stewpan with a piece of
butter, fry it brown all over : when it is well
browned, pour in a qsiart of water; stew* it
slowly till it is almost enough, then put in your
pint of gravy ; thicken it if necessary, and add to
it a large spoonful or two of mushroom catsup, or
port wine, or both ; let it have a boil up, and
then serve it up. You may add a little elder or
basil vinegar, and for a change send up with it
stewed cucumbers or celery.
Rib of Beef Stewed. (No. 498.)
Provide one of the prime ribs, trim it neatly,
and lay it in a stewpan of nearly its own bigness,
putting a slice or two of bacon at the bottom : lay
in your beef, and cover it with another slice of
bacon : for seasoning, put in an onion, two carrots
split and cut in pieces, a little sweet basil, thyme
and parsley, a couple of blades of bruised mace,
arid some pepper and salt ; let it stew gently till
it is very tender: take it out upon a plate, clean
it well from fat ; strain the liquor into a clean
stewpan, and put to it a teacupful of water, and a
large teaspoonful of flour ; let it boil away till it
is thickened, then lay your meat in a dish, and
pour the gravy over and round it. Send up spi-
nach with it, or parsnips and beet root.
Obs. This is a very savoury, nourishing, and
economical dish, and a valuable variety at a mo-
derate table.
* Slow stewing requires from twenty to thirty minutes
pound of meat.
MADE DISHES.
Cold Beef garnished with Jelly. (No. 499-)
Take six pounds of the rump of beef ; let it hang
three days to make it tender ; rub it well with an
ounce of saltpetre, and a pound of salt ; let it lay
four or iive (lays, putting half a pint of water into
the salting pan, that your jelly may not be too salt.
Put all these into a pot as nigh its size as possible ;
cover it with water, and season it with a full sized
carrot and a large onion, a sprig of sweet marjo-
ram, three times the quantity of parsley, a dozen
corns of whole pepper, same of allspice ; take
care to skim it well, and let it simmer very gently
till it is quite tender, which it ought to be in
about four hours. Take the beef out, carefully
strain the broth into a larger stewpan, and take
the grease off it; set it on a quick fire, and let it
boil away till it is reduced to a very strong jelly :
beat the whites and shells of two eggs wilh a little
cold water, and put them to the jelly : take it off
the stove, let it settle for a few minutes ; but
while it is hot, strain it through a very fine nap-
kin ; with a paste brush rub a little of it over the
meat; (this, in culinary technicals, is termed
glaring it ;) put the remainder of the jelly into a
ilat dish about an inch deep : when it is tho-
roughly cold, cut it out into any shapes you
please, and garnish the beef with it.
Obs. Few things are cheaper than this, and 1
never saw it brought to table where every one was
not pleased with it. It is a very delicious dish
for luncheon or supper, and will keep four or five
days. Something cold of this sort is very convo.
MADE DISHES*
nient in small families; and let the cook who
would make herself most agreeable in such,
always remember that! it is her own interest to
study that of her employers ; let her make it
her business to get out of the common tract, am!
learn how to make some of those things that add
to the variety of the table, without increasing the
expense. The most moderate table may, under
proper management, afford sufficient variety;
there need not be a perpetual, dull repetition of
the same joints, plainly one ail or another, unless
it be the fault of the provider or the cook, tor there
are plenty of very pretty things that may be
dressed as cheap as a plain joint.
Stezced Rump Steak. (No. 500.)
Two pounds of rump steak, (if you fear they
will not eat tender, beat them well,) line the bot-
tom of a three quart stew pun with slices of good
bacon, and on this lay the steaks, with a pint and
a hair of cold water, a dozen corns of allspice, the
same of black pepper, the red part of a quarter
of a carrot, a little bundle of savory, sweet mar-
joram, and parsley, a large onion with two cloves
stuck in it, and half a head of celery ; cover iheiu
up closely, and let them simmer gently an hour
and a half; if they are thin steaks, an hour \\ilt
be enough ; take care the meat (Joes tiot go to rags
by doing too fast or too much. When the steaks
are tender take them up, flour them, and fry them
just to brown them in an ounce of butter : make
some thickening with an ounce of butter and
two tablespoonsful of flour; put it into your sauce ;
stir it well together with a wooden spoon, adding
MADE DISHES.
thereto a tablespoonful of mushroom catstip r the
same of browning, half a teaspoonful of salt, and
a quarter of a teaspoonful of ground black pep-
per : dish your steaks, and strain your sauce to
them. Veal cutlets or mutton chops may be done
the same way.
Obs. Rump steaks are in best condition from
Michaelmas to Lady-day. To ensure tiieir being
tender, give the butcher three or tour days' notice
of your wish for them.
Rump Steak zcith Onion Gravy. (No. .501.)
Peel and slice two large onions ; put them info a
quart stew pan with two tablespoonsful of water;
cover the stewpan close, and set it on a slow fire
till the water has boiled away, and the onions
have got a little browned, then add half a pint of
good broth *, and boil the onions till they are
quite tender; strain the broth from them, and
chop them very tine ; thicken the broth with flour
and butter, and season it with mushroom catsup,
and pepper and salt ; put the onion into it, and'
let it boil gently for rive minutes, and pour it over
a broiled rump steak. If instead of broth you use
good beef gravy it will be superlative.
a% Stewed cucumbers, No. 135, is another agreeable variety
in the dressing of rump steaks.
* If you have no broth, put in half a pint of water, and just
before you give it the last boil up, add to it a large spoonful of
mushrouui catsup, aud 3 , if you like, the same quantity, of port
\vine.
MADE DISHES.
ALAMODE BEEF, or, ENGLISH
TURTLE. (No. 502.)
In the hundred and fifteen volumes on cookery
we digested before \ve begun to .compose this work,
-we could not find one receipt that approached any
thing like to an accurate description of the way in
which this excellent dish is actually dressed
in the best alamode b ef shops ; from whence,
of course, it was impossible to obtain any in-
formation : however, after all, the whole of the
secret seems to be the thickening the gravy (of
beef that has been very slowly stewed) wilh bread
raspings, and flavouring it with bay leaves.
Take about six pounds of the clod of beef, or
the sticking piece ; cut it into pieces of two or
three pounds each; put two ounces of beef drip-
pings into a large deep stewpan ; as soon as it is
quite hot, flour your meat, put it into the stew-
pan, turn it often till it is a light brown, then
cover it with boiling water, and put a quart over ;
skim it when it boils, and then put in a large
onion, and half a pint of bread raspings, and let
it stew very slowly for three hours, then just
crack twelve berries of black pepper, same of
allspice, and fsur cloves, put them into a
linen bag, with half a dozen bay leaves, and a
bunch of sweet herbs, and let them stew an hour
longer : if you find the meat sufficiently tender,
take it up with a slice, cut it into quarter of a,
pound pieces, and put it into a tureen, and pour
the soup to it.
To the above many cooks add an ounce of champignons ;
but as these, are almost akcaysso decayed, and sometimes of
deleterious quality, they arc better left out.
* *
*
MADE DISHES.
To pot Beef. (No. 503.)
Take three pounds of lean gravy beef, salt it
twelve hours with half a pound of common salt
and half an ounce of saltpetre ; cut off all the
skin and fit ; cut the lean into pound pieces, and
put it into an earthen pan, or stone jar that will
just hold it, put two ounces of butter on the top,
then cover it with the skin and fat that you cut off,
and pour in half a pint of water; cover it close
with white paper, and tie over that, strong brown
paper, and set it in a slow oven for four hours ;
when it comes from the oven, pour the gravy from,
it into a basin, throw away the skins and fat,
shred it fine, moisten it with the gravy you,
poured from the meat, and pound it in a marble
mortar with a little clarified butter, or, what is
better, some beef marrow, till it is as fine a paste as
possible, seasoning it (by degrees as you are
beating it,) with black pepper and allspice, or
cloves pounded, and grated nutmeg; put it in pots
close as possible ; set it in an oven for a few
minutes, to make it set smooth in the pot; take it
out, and when it is quite cold, cover it a quarter
of an inch thick with clarified butter ; to prepare
which, see receipt, No. 259.
Obs. You may mince half a pound of ham
or bacon, or a few anchovies, and pound it with
the meat, with a glass of sherry, or some force-
meat, if you wish to have it very savoury.
Or,
It is a very agreeable and economical way of
MADE DISHES,
using the remains of a large joint of eilhcr roasted
~ *'
or boiled beef, veal, or ham, to mince it, and beat
it in a mortar with the seasoning, &c., as in the
former receipt.
Obs. Meat that has been lotted down for gra-
*r/es, Sfc- till it Is completely drained of all
its succulence, beaten in a mortar with salt and
spice, will make as good potted beef as if it
is baked till its moisture is quite evaporated,
which it must be, or it will not keep two days.
Beef Cakes. (No. 504.)
If you have any cold roast beef that is under-
done, mince it fine, and then pound it in a marble
mortar with a little fat bacon or ham ; season it
with a little pepper and salt; mix them well, and
make it into small cakes three inches long, half as
wide, and half an inch thick : fry these a light
brown, and serve them with good gravy.
Bubble and Squeak, cr fried Beef and
Cabbage. (No. 50.').)
For this, as for a hash, select those parts of the
joint that have been least done ; cut slices of cold
boiled salted beef, sprinkle them with a little
pepper, and just give them a brown with a bit of
butter in a fryingpan : if it is fried too much it
will be hard. Boil a cabbage, squeeze it quite
dry, and chop it small ; take the beef out of the
fryingpan, and lay the cabbage in it; sprinkle a
little pepper and salt over it ; keep the pan
moving over the fire for a few minutes ; lay the
meat in the middle of a dish, and the cabbage
round it.
MADE DISHES.
Hash Beef and Roast Beef Bones Broiled.
(No. oO(5,)
To bash beef, see Receipt to hash mutton.
The best part to hash is the fillet or inside of the
sirloin, and the good housewife will always endea-
vour to preserve this entire for this purpose.
Ronst beef bones furnish a very relishing lun-
cheon, prepared in the following manner.
Divide the bones, leaving good picking of meat
on each ; score them in squares, pour some melted
butter on them, and pepper and salt; put them
in a dish, and set them in a Dutch oven, and give
them a brown on the gridiron.
Ox-Cheek Staved. (No. 507.)
If convenient, prepare this the day before it is
to be eaten ; cleanse it, and put it to soak all night
in salt and \vater ; next day wipe it clean, and
put it into a stewpan with two quarts of water and
a pint of table-beer that is neither bitter nor stale ;
skim it well when it is coming to a boil, and let it
simmer for two hours : slice a couple of onions,
fry them brown in a little butter and flour, and
put them into the soup, with two whole onions
with a clove in each, three turnips quartered, a
couple of carrots sliced, a bay leaf, a head of
celery, and a bundle of sweet herbs, pepper and
salt ; let it stew till perfectly tender, take out the
cheek, divide it into handsome pieces; skim and
strain the gravy, and add to it a tablespoonful of
basil or elder vinegar, the like quantity of mush-
room or walnut catsup, and the same of browning.
Serve up in a soup or ragout dish.
Obs. This is a very economical, nourishing-,
and savoury meal.
MADE DISHES.
Ox-Tails Stewed. (No. 508.)
Having cut them into joints, wash them, par-
boil them, and set them on to stew in just water
enough to cover them, and dress them in the same
manner as we have directed, in No. 531, Slewed
Giblets, for which they are an excellent substitute.
Potted Ham. (No. 509.)
Cut a pound of the lean of cold boiled ham ;
cut it small and pound it in a mortar with a little
fresh butter, in the proportion of an ounce to a
pound, till it is a very tine paste, seasoning it by
degrees with a little pounded mace or grated nut-
meg; put it close down in pots for that purpose,
and cover it with clarified butter a quarter of an
incli thick ; let it stand one night in a cool place.
Send it up in the pot, or cut out in thin slices.
4.*^ A couple of ounces of the fat of the ham are quite as good
as butter to mix with it, in pounding.
Marbled Veal. (No. 5 10.)
Boil a neat's tongue till it is tender, trim off all
the fat and bones, and cut the tongue into small
pieces, and pound it in a mortar with a quarter of
a pound of butter, till it is very fine ; pound the like
quantity or dressed veal in the same way with
black pepper and salt, and a little grated nutmeg;
when the veal is pounded very fine, lay part of it
in the bottom of an earthen pan, stick the tongue
ilADE DIbHES.
in lumps upon Ihe veal, not in any shapes, the
more careless the better, as it will look better
when it is cut out ; then put another layer of the
veal on the tongue, and press it clown close ; cover
it with clarified butter ; send it to table cut into
thin slices, and garnished with sprigs of curled
parsley.
Minced Veal (No. ,511.)
Mince ready dressed veal as fine as possible,
but do not chop it ; put it into a stewpan with a
few spoonsful of veal or mutton broth, a little
lemon-peel minced fine, a spoonful of milk or
cream : thicken with butter and flour, and season
it with salt, a tablespoonful of lemon pickle, or
catsup.
%.* If you have no cream, beat up the yolks of a couple of
eggs with a little water : garnish with sippets.
To make an excellent hot dish of cold Veal.
(No. 512.)
Either a neck, loin, or fillet of veal will fur-
nish an excellent ragout with very little expense
or trouble.
Cut your veal into handsome cutlets ; put a
piece of butter or clean dripping into a fry-
ingpan ; as soon as it is hot ilour and fry your
veal of a light brown ; take it out, and if you
have no gravy ready, put a pint of boiling water
into the fryingpan, give it a boil up for a minute,
and strain it into a basin while you make some
Q
DISHES.
thickening in the following manner : put about
ounce of butter into a stewpan, as soon as it looks
a little brown mix with it as much flour as will dry
it up ; stir it over the fire for a few minutes, and
gradually add to it the gravy you made in the
fryingpan ; let them simmer together for ten
minutes till thoroughly incorporated ; season it
with pepper, salt, and a little mace, and a wine
glass of mushroom catsup; strain it through a
tammis to the meat : when the meat is thoroughly
warmed it is enough.
Veal Sweetbread Fricassee, white. (No. 5 1 3.)
Parboil it for ten minutes in a little more
water than will just cover it, with some salt,
white pepper, and a blade of pounded mace; then
cut it into slices about three quarters of an inch
thick, and add to the liquor an ounce of butter,
and two teaspoonsful of flour: keep this over
the fire, shaking it well till these ingredients are
well mixed ; put in Ihe sweetbread again, let it
stew very gently till it is done enough, and the
sauce is properly thickened, then beat up a
couple of yolks of eggs with a glass of white wine ;
add this to your sauce, stir it together, but do
not let it boil. Garnish with slices of lemon.
If you prefer a Fricassee brown, (No. 514.)
Fry the sweetbreads brown in a little butter,
ihen put them on to stew, and finish them as
above, leaving out the eggs; if you wish it to
MADE DISHES.
be more savoury, add an onion, or esballot, witk
a tablespoonful of browning-, and one of catsup,
cavice, or lemon pickle.
%* For three other receipts to dress sweetbreads, see
No. 88, 4"f- chapter on frying.
Breast of Veal Stewed. (No. 515.)
A breast of veal stewed till quite tender, and
smothered with onion sauce, is an excellent dish.
Stewed Veal and Bacon. (No. 516.)
Have a piece of fillet of veal of four or five
pounds ; put it into a stewpan with a pound and
a half of bacon, a pint of water, two carrots, a
faggot of sweet herbs, "with half a dozen spring
onions, some sprigs of parsley, and three cloves;
when it boils, skim it, and put it on a very slow
fire to simmer gently for four hours : thicken it
with some flour, and take out the bundle of herbs
when you dish it.
Breast of Veal Ragout. (No. 5 1 7.)
Take off the under bone, and cut the breast
in half, lengthways ; divide it into pieces four
inches long by two inches wide, so that they may
be in handsome pieces, but not too large to help
at once : put about two ounces of butter into a
fryingpan, and fry the veal till it is a fine brown ;
then put it into a stewpan with veal broth, if you
have it, or else as much boiling water as will
cover it, a small bundle of sweet marjoram, com-
mon or lemon-thyme, and parsley, with a couple of
.51 APE riSIIES.
cloves, and a couple of blades of pounded mace,
three youns? onions, or one old one as bis; as a
*/ C* ^ Cj
\valnut, a roll of lemon-peel, half a dozen corns of
allspice bruised, and a teaspoonful of salt ; cover
it close, and let it all simmer very gently for two
hours and a half; then take out the meat with a
slice; arid to thicken the grav3 r , put an ounce of
butter into a stewpan, with two table-spoonsful of
flour; stir well together for five minutes, and
mix the gravy with it; boil ten minutes, skim it
well, and put in the meat to warm up: season it
with two tublcspoousful of white wine, and one of
mushroom catsup : cover the pan close, to confine
the steam, and let it stew gently half an hour
longer, till there is just sufficient gravy to cover
the meat when put in the dish : lay the veal in a
ragout dish, and squeeze half a lemon into the sauce.
Obs. Forcemeat-balls,, truffles, &c., are some-
times added.
f^eal Olives. (No. 518.)
Cut half a dozen slices off a fillet of veal, half
an inch thick, and as long and square as you can ;
flat them with a chopper, and rub them over with
an egg that has been beat on a plate; cut some
fat bacon as thin as possible, the same size as the
veal, lay it on the veal, and rub it with a little of
the egg : make a little veal forcemeat, (see re-
ceipt, No. 375,) a#d spread it very thin over the
bacon ; roll upthe olives tight, and tie them with
a bit of twine; rub them with the egg, and then
roll them in fine bread crumbs : put them on a
lark spit, and roast them at a brisk fire : they will
take three quarters of an hour.
MADE DISHES.
Mushroom sauce brown, or truffle sauce, or
beef gravy. Vide chapter on sauces, c.
Cold Calfs Head, Hashed. (No. 5 1 9.)
See Obs. to boil calf's head, No. 10.
Calfs Plead Hashed, or Ragout. (No. 520.)
Wash a calf's head that has been skinned, and
boil the half you intend to hash for fifteen
minutes ; the other half an hour, or, if it is large,
give it hfteen or twenty minutes longer: when
quite tender, take out all the brains you can : beat
up an egg on a plate, and put this all over it with
a paste brush, and strew over it thyme and pars-
ley in tine powder, then bread crumbs, and put it
in the Dutch oven to brown. Cut the other half
head into slices, and put it into a stew pan with a
quart of gravy, No. 329, and let it simmer for
three quarters of an hour : take up the meat with
a slice, and strain the gravy into a clean stewpan
with forcemeat-balls, No" 316, 380, egg-balls,
and a wineglass of white wine ; put in the meat,
and let it warm up together, and skim off the fat.
Beat up the brains in a basin with a spoonful of
flour, two eggs, lemon peel, thyme, parsley, and a
few leaves of sage; chop all tine, and mix well
together with pepper, salt, and a scrape of nut-
meg : fry them, in little cakes, of a very light
brown; dish up your hash, with the half head
you browned in the middle, and garnish witii
crisp curled rashers of bacon, and the brain cakes.
*** Tnijjlts and morels are frequently added to this.
Q J
MADE DISHES.
Veal Cutlets Broiled. (No. 521.)
Divide the best end of a neck of veal into cut-
lets, one rib to each ; make a few fine bread
crumbs, mince a little parsley and a very little
shallot as small as possible ; put it into a clean
stevvpan with two ounces of butter; fry it for a
minute, then put it on a plate to cool : when cold,
mix the yolks of two eggs with it, and season it
with pepper and salt : dip the cutlets into this
mixture, and then into the bread ; lay them on a
gridiron over a clear slow fire; they will take a
quarter of an hour : send up with them a few
slices of bacon fried, or done in the Dutch oven.
Knuckle of Teal, to ragout. (No. 522.)
Cut a knuckle of veal into slices about half an
inch thick; pepper, salt, and flour them; fry
them a light brown ; put the trimmings into a
stewpan, with the bone broke in several places ;
an onion sliced ; a head of celery ; a bunch of
sweet herbs, and three blades of bruised mace:
pour in warm ^vater enough to cover it about an
inch : cover your pot close, and let it ste\v very
gently for a couple of hours : thicken it with flour
and butter; put in a spoonful of catsup, a glass of
wine, and juice of half a lemon; give it a boil
up, and strain into a clean stewpan: put in the
meat and make it hot, and serve up.
Obs. If celery is not to be had, use a carrot
instead.
3IADE DISHES.
Knuckle of Teal Stewed with Rice.
(No. 523.)
As boiled knuckle of veal cold is not a very
favourite relish with the generality, cut oir some
steaks from it, which you may dress as in the
foregoing receipt, and leave the knuckle no
larger than will be eaten the day it is dressed.
Break the shank bone, wash it clean, and put it
in a large stewpan with two quarts of water, one
onion, two blades of rnace,. and a teaspoonful of
salt : set it on a quick fire ; when it boils, take oiF
all the scum : wash and pick a pound of rice, and
put it into the stewpan wi'ih the meat, and let it
stew very gendy for two hours : put the meat,
&c. in a deep dish, and the rice round it.
Send up bacon with it, parsnips, or greens, and
finely minced parsley and butter.
MR. GAY'S Receipt to Stew a Knuckle of
Veal. (No. 524.)
Take a knuckle of veal;
You. may buy it, or steal;
In a few pieces cut it,
In a stewingpan put it;
Suit, pepper, and mace,
IVlust season this knuckle ;
Then, what's join'd to a place*
With other herbs muckle;
That which kill'cl King Will f,
And what never stands still J. ;
* Vuigo, salary. t Supposed sorrel.
This is, by Dr.. BENTLEY, thought to be time, or thynie,
Q 4
MADE DISHES.
Some sprigs of that bed *
Where children are bred,
Which much yon will mend, if
Both spinoge and endive,
And lettuce and beet,
With marygold meet.
Put 1:0 water at all,
Tor it maketh things small,
Which, lest it should happen,
A close cover clap on :
Put this pot of Wood's metal t
In a boiling hot kettle;
Arid there let it be,
(Mark the doctrine I teach,)
About, let me see,
Thrice as long as you preach +*
So skimming the tat off,
Say grace with your hat off,
O! then with what rapture
\Villit nil Dean and Chapter !
Lamb's Head and Pluck. (No. 525.)
Clean and wash alnmb's Lend well, and boil it
an hour and a half: take it up, ami rub it over
with a paste brush dipped in egg well beaten ;
strew over it a little pepper and salt, and
some fine bread crumbs : lay it in a dish before
the fire, or in a Dutch oven to brown : when it
begins to get dry, put some melted butter on it
with a paste brush-: mince the heart, liver, and
the tongue very fine; put them into a stewpau
with a little of the liquor the head was boiled in,
and an ounce of batter, well mixed with half a
* Parsley. Vide CHAMBERLAYJS T E.
t Of this composition, see the works of the copper farthing
dean.
\ Which we suppose to be near four hours.
MADE DISHES.
tablespoonful of flour, a little pepper and salt ~
set it on a slow fire for ten minutes. Squeeze
the juice of half a lemon into a dish, lay in the
mince, with the head upon it, and garnish it with
relishing rashers of bacon. See receipt. No. 527.
Slices of Ham or Bacon. (No. 526.)
Slices of ham, or bacon, may be broiled on a
gridiron over a clear fire, or toasted with a fork :
if you wish it curled, cut it thin, curl it, and put
it on an iron skewer in a cheese-toaster, or Dutch
oven, for fifteen or twenty minutes, turning it as
it gets crisp.
Relishing Rashers of Bacon. (No. 52?.)
If you have any cold bacon in the larder, you
may make a very nice dish of it by cutting it
into slices rather more than a quarter of an inch
thick ; grate some crust of bread, and powder
them well with it on both sides ; lay the rashers
in a cheese-toaster : they will be browned on one
side in about three minutes ; then turn them and
do the other.
Obs. These are a delicious accompaniment
to poached or fried eggs : the bacon, from hav-
ing been boiled * first, eats extremely tender and
mellow. They are a very excellent garnish
round veal cutlets, or calfs-head hash, or green
pease, or beans.
* To boil bacon, see No. 13.
Q5
MADE DISHES.
Hashed Venison. (No. 528.)
If you have enough of its own gravy left, it. is
preferable to any to warm it up in : if not, take a
pint of mutton gravy. No. 347, or the bones and
trimmings of the joint, (after you have cut off all
the handsome slices you can, to make the hash ;)
put these into a pint of water, and stew them
gently for an hour : put a bit of butter in another
stewpan, about as big as a walnut: when melted,
put to it as much flour as will dry up the butter,
and stir it well together ; add to it, by degrees,
the gravy you have been making of the trim-
mings, give it a boil up, skim it, and strain it
through a sieve, and it is ready to receive the
venison : put it in, and let it just get warm : do
not let it boil, or it will make the meat hard.
Jugged Hare. (No. 529.)
Wash it very nicely, cut it up into such pieces
as you would help at table, and put it into a stone
jar*, sufficiently large to well hold it, lining the
bottom of the jar with a couple of ounces of
bacon : put in some sweet herbs, a roll or two of
rind of lemon, or Seville orange, and a fine large
onion with five cloves stuck in it, a quarter
* Bleat dressed by the heat of boiling water, without being
exposed to it, is a mode of cookery that deserves to be more
generally employed : it is deliciously stewed, and tlie whole of
the nourishment and gravy are preserved. This, in chemical
technicals, is called a Water Bath : in culinary, Bain Marie :
which A. CIIAPPELLE, in his " Modern Coo/c," 8vo. page 25,
London, 1744, translates, " Mary's Bath."
MADE DISHES.
pint of red wine, and the juice of a Seville orange
or large lemon : tie the jar down closely with a
bladder, so that no steam can escape ; put a little
hay in the bottom of a saucepan, in which place
the jar, and pour in water till it reaches within,
three inches of the top of the jar; let the water
boil for four or five hours, according to the age
and size of the hare, keeping it boiling all the
time, and fill up the pot as it boils away. When
quite tender, strain off the gravy, (of which there
will be found a good quantity, although no water
was put in the jar,) clear it from fat, and thicken
it with flour and butter, and give it a boil up :
lay your hare in a soup-dish, and pour the gravy
to it.
Obs. You may make a pudding, the same as
for roast hare, and boil it in a cloth ; and when
you dish up your hare, cut your pudding in
slices, and lay round it for garnish.
Hashed Ducks or Geese. (No. 530.)
Cut an onion into small dice ; put it into a stew-
pan with a little bit of butter ; fry it, but do not
let it get any colour : put as much boiling water
into the stewpan as will make sauce for the hash ;
thicken it with a little flour and butter ; cut up
the duck, and put it into the sauce ; do not let it
boil ; season it with pepper and salt.
Stewed Giblets. (No. 531.)
Clean two sets of giblets, as in the receipt for
giblet soup ; put them into a saucepan with two
MADE DISHES.
quarts of cold water; set them on the fire; when
they boil, take off the scum, and season them
vfitli an onion, three cloves, two blades of mace,
four berries of black pepper, the same of allspice,
and half a teaspoonful of salt : cover the stewpan
close, and let it simmer very gently till the giblets
are quite tender : this will take about two hours
and a half: watch them that they do not get too
much done : take them out, and thicken the sauce
with flour and butter; let it boil half an hour, or
till there is just enough to eat with them; and
ihen strain it through a tammis into a clean stew-
pan : cut the giblets into mouthfuls, put them
into the sauce, with the juice of half a lemon, and
a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup : pour the
whole into a soup dish, with sippets of bread at the
bottom.
Obs. Ox-tails prepared in the same way are
excellent eating.
Hashed Woodcock. (No. 552.)
Cut off the breasts, legs, and wings of ready
toasted birds ; lay them on the dish you intend
sending to table ; cover it with another dish, and
set it over a saucepan of hot water : pound the
bones and inside in a mortar, put them into a
stewpan with half a pint of port wine, and a little
broth, thickened with half a tablespoonful of flour,
a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, and a bit of
shallot chopped fine ; season it with Cayenne pep-
per, and salt : when it has boiled a quarter of an
fiour, and there only remains liquor enough for
sauce, strain it through a hair sieve over the
birds in the dish : garuiih with fried sippets.
MADE DISHES.
Hashed Turkey, Fold, or Chicken. (No. 533.)
Cut them upas for a fricassee, and lay them at
the bottom of a stewpan ; into another stewpan
put slices of bacon, the trimmings and bones of
the fowl, a piece of butler as big as an egg, a
tablespoonful of Hour, a minced onion or e shallot, a
bundle of sweet herbs, a roll oflemon-peel, a blade
of bruised mace, and half a dozen pepper corns:
cover it close, and let it stew for ten minutes ;
then add half a pint of warm water, a tablespoon-
ful of browning, one of lemon pickle, and one of
catsup, and two teaspoonsful of lemon juice : give
it a boil up for a few minutes, and run it through
a line hair sieve into the stewpan containing the
meat of the fowl, &c. ; let it simmer till it is warm,
and serve it up. Do not let the sauce boil after
you have put it to the fowl.
Pulled Turkey, Fozvl, or Chicken. (No. 534.)
Take off the skin of a cold chicken, fowl, or
turkey; take off the fillets from the breasts, and
put them into a stewpan with the rest of the white
meat and wings, side-bones, and merry-thought,
with half a pint of water, two tablespoonsful of
table-beer, and one of port wine ; a large blade
of mace pounded, a shallot minced fine, the juice
of half a lemon, and peel of a quarter, some salt,
and a few grains of Cayenne ; thicken it with flour
and butter, and let it simmer for two or three
minutes, till the meat is warm. In the meantime,
score the legs and rump, powder them with pep-
MADE DISHES.
per and salt, broil them nicely brown, and lay
them on or round your pulled chicken.
Obs. Three tablespoonsful of good cream will
be a great improvement to it.
To Dress Cold Fowl, Duck, Pigeon, or
Rabbit. (No. 535.)
Cut them in quarters, beat up an egg or two
(according to the quantity you dress,) with a little
grated nutmeg, and pepper and salt, some pars-
ley minced fine, and a few crumbs of bread ; mix
these well together, and cover your fowl, &c.
with this batter ; have ready some dripping hot
in a pan, in which fry them a light brown colour ;
thicken a little gravy with some flour, put a
large spoonful of catsup to it, lay the fry in a dish,
and pour the sauce round it. You may garnish
with slices of lemon.
Fricassee of Chickens with Mushrooms.
(No. 536.) .
Singe and clean two young chickens, cut
off their legs close to the thigh-bone, cut
off the thighs and wings, and divide the breast
into two pieces, put them into a two quart
stewpan with a pint of boiling water; let them
boil gently half an hour with a few of the
worst looking mushrooms you have, two or three
sprigs of parsley, two young onions, and two
blades of mace. While the chickens are boiling,
clean half a pint of the smallest and whitest mush-
rooms you can get with a flannel, and some lemon
MADE DISHES.
juice and water. When the chickens are done,
take them out and put them into cold water ;
thicken the liquor they were stewed in with some
flour and butter, boil it ten minutes, and strain
it through a tammis into a clean stewpan ; put in
the mushrooms, trim your chickens neatly, and
put them into the sauce with some good cream ;
make it hot, and add two yolks of eggs mixed
with a little cream, and season it with a little salt,
Do not let it boil after the eggs are put in.
Obs. Pigeons, or rabbits, tripe, and sweet-
breads, are dressed in the same way.
Fricassee of Chicken in a Minute. (No. 537.)
Cut a chicken in pieces; put two ounces of
butter into a stewpan ; when melted, put your
chicken into it with salt and pepper, a bay leaf,
and mushrooms : when your chicken is firm, add
two spoonsful of flour, and stir it well together ;
when well mixed, put in half a pint of broth or
water, stir it, and at the first boil take it off the
fire ; break four eggs, mix the yolks with two
spoonsful of cream, put it to your chickens, stir it
together on the fire, but do not let it boil, as it will
curdle. When you dish, take out the bay leaf.
>
Devil. (No. 538.)
The gizzard and rump of a dressed turkey, or
the rump of a goose, taken from the bird, and
scored, and well peppered and salted, and broiled,
and sent up for a relish, and being made very
hot, has obtained the name of a " devil."
MADE DISHES.
Toast and Cheese. (No. 539.)
f< H:ippy the man that lias each fortune tried,
To whom sLe much has given, and much denied ;
\Yith abstinence all delicates he sees,
And can regale himself on toast and cheese."
KING'S Art of Cookery.
Cut a slice of bread about half an inch thick,
pare off the crust, and toast it very slightly on
both sides, so as just to brown it, without making
.it hard, or burning it. Cut a slice of cheese
Cgood fat mellow Cheshire cheese, or double Glos-
ter, is much better than poor, thin single GIos-
ter,) a quarter of an inch thick, not so big as the
bread by half an inch on each side; pare off the
rind, cut out all the specks and rotten parts *,
and lay it on the toasted bread in a cheese-toaster ;
carefully watch it, that it does not burn, and stir
it with a spoon, to prevent a pellicle forming on
the surface. Have ready good mustard.
Obs. One would think nothing can be easier
than to prepare a Welch rabbit ; and yet, not only
in private families, but at taverns, it is very sel-
dom sent to table in perfection.
If you observe the directions here given, the
cheese will eat mellow and uniformly done, and
the bread crisp and soft.
Toasted Cheese, No. 2. (No. 540.)
We have nothing to add to the directions
* Rotten cheese toasted, is the ne plus ultra of hunt gout,
and only eaten by the thorough-bred Gourmand in the most
inverted state of his jaded appetite.
MADE DISHES.
given for toasting the cheese in the last receipt,
except in sending it up : it will save much time
in portioning it out at table, if you have half a
dozen small silver or tin pans to fit into the
cheese toaster, and do the cheese in these : each
person may then be helped to a separate pan, and
it will keep the cheese much hotter than the
usual way of eating it on a cold plate.
Buttered Toast and Cheese, (No. 54 1 .)
Prepare a round of toast ; butter it ; grate over
it good Cheshire cheese about half the thickness
of the toast, and give it a brown.
Potted Cheese. (No. 542.)
To a pound and a half of fine rich mellow Cheshire
cheese add two ounces, if the cheese is a dry one,
three ounces of good fresh butter; pound well
tog-ether in a marble mortar, and add by degrees
half a drachm of beaten mace or nutmeg, and a
tablespoonfnl of well made mustard ; beat the in-
gredients well together till they are thoroughly
mixed, and put them into pots pressed down
hard, and covered with clarified butter, and tied
down with wetted bladder.
Keep it in a cool place.
Rarnaquin. (No. 543.)
A quarter of a pound of Gloster or Cheshire
cheese pounded in a mortar, with half an ounce
of butter, and an egg.
MADE DISHES.
Cut a slice of bread half an inch thick, toast
and butter it a little on both sides ; spread the
composition on it half an inch thick, and bake it
four minutes in a Dutch oven ; it should rise an
inch high.
o
Marrow Bones. (No. 544.)
Saw the bones even, so that they will stand
quite steady ; put a piece of paste into the ends ;
set them upright in a saucepan, and boil till they
are done enough. Serve toasted broad wiltv
them.
Eggs fried mih Bacon. (No. 545.)
Lay some slices of fine streaked bacon (not
more than a quarter of an inch thick) in a clean
dish, and toast them before the fire in a cheese
toaster : first ask those who are to eat the bacon,
if they wish it much or little clone, i. e. curled
and crisp, or mellow and soft ; if the latter, par-
boil it first.
Well cleansed drippings, or lard, are better
than butter to fry eggs. Be sure your frying-pan
is quite clean : when the fat is hot, break two or
three eggs into it ; do not turn them, but, while
they are frying, keep pouring some of the fat
over them with a spoon : when the yolk just be-
gins to look white, which it will in about a couple
of minutes, they are enough ; the white must not
lose its transparency, but the yolk be seen blush-
ing through it: take them up with a tin slice,
MADE DISHES.
drain the fat from them, trim them neatly, and
send them up with the bacon round them.
To Poach Eggs. (No. 546.)
You must have new laid, or very fresh eggs,
or it is impossible to poach them nice: don't
put any vinegar in the water, as it will harden
the white of the egg, arid quite spoil the look of
it: the beauty of a poached egg is to have the
yolk seen through the white.
Take a flat open stevvpan half full of boiling
water; you may put in two eggs at the same
time, boil them gently for two minutes ; trim
them, and send them up on a toast*, with or
without butter ; or without a toast, garnished
with streaked bacon nicely fried, s.lices of broiled
beef or mutton, anchovies, or pork sausages.
Qbs. The bread should be a little larger
than the egg, and full a quarter of an inch thick :
oniy just give it a fine yellow colour: take care
not to toast it brown, or it will get a bitter flavour :
if you do not butter it, it is usual to moisten it by
pouring a little hot water on it, and some add a
tew drops of vinegar on it.
To Boil Eggs In the Shell. (No. 547.)
Put the eggs into boiling water; if you like the
white just set, two minutes is enough; if you
# Two poached eggs, with a few line dry fried collops of
pure bacon, are not bad for breakfast, or to begin a meal,"
says Sir KEXELM DIGBY, M.D. in his Closet of Cookery,
London, 1669, page 1C?.
MADE DISHES.
wish the yolk to be set, it will take three minutes
*f r
and a half.
Obs. A new laid egg- will not require boiling
so long as a stale one, by half a minute.
Eggs Poached with Sauce of minced Ham.
(No. 548.)
Poach the eggs as before directed, and take
two or three slices of boiled ham, ir.ince it fine,
with a gherkin, a morsel of onion, a little parsley,'
and pepper and salt; stew all together a quarter
of an hour; serve up your sauce about haif boil-
ing; put the eggs in a dish, squeeze over them
the juice of half a Seville orange, or lemon, and
pour the sauce over them.
Fried Eggs and minced Bacon. (No. 549.)
Choose some very fine bacon, streaked with a
good deal of lean ; cut this into very thin slices,
aV.d afterwards into the smallest square pieces ;
throw them into a stewpan, and set it over a gentle
fire, that they may lose some of their fat. When as
much as will freely come is thus melted from them,
lay them on a warm dish. Put into a stewpan a
ladleful of melted bacon or lard ; set it on a stove ;
put in about a dozen of the small pieces of .the
bacon, then stoop the stewpan and break in an
egg. JVIanage this carefully, and the egg will
presently be done; it will be very round, and the
little dice of bacon will stick to it all over, so
that it will make a very pretty appearance. Take
care the yolks do not harden ; and when the egg
MADE DISHES.
is thus done, lay it carefully on a warm disb, and
do the others.
%* They reckon 685 ways of dressing eggs in the French
kitchen ; we hope we have here given sufficient variety fur
English palates, in the half dozen preceding receipts*
Egg Tea. (No. 550.)
<{ The Jesuit that came from China, A.D. 1664,
told Mr. Waller, that to a pint of tea they fre-
quently take the yolks of two new laid eggs, and
beat them up with as much fine sugar as is suf-
ficient for the tea, and stir all well together. He
also informed him that the water must remain upon
the tea no longer than while you can say the
" Miserere" psalm very leisurely ; you have then
only the spiritual part of the tea, the proportion
of which to the water must be about a drachm to a
pint." SirKENELME DIGBY'S Cookery^ London,
1669, page 167.
Obs. The addition of the egg makes the tea a
more nutritious and substantial meal for a traveller.
-^
. Suet Pudding, Wiggys IVay. (No. 551.)
Suet, a quarter of a pound ; flour, three table-
spoonsful ; eggs, tw o, and a little grated ginger ;
milk, half a pint. Mince the suet as fine as pos-
sible, roll it with the rolling pin so as to mix it
well with the flour ; beat up the eggs, mix them
with the milk, and then mix all together ; wet your
cloth well in boiling water, flour it, and tie it loose :
boil an hour and a quarter.
DADE DISHES.
Yorkshire Pudding under Roast Meat.
(No. 552.)
This pudding is an especially excellent accom-
paniment to a sirloin of beef.
Five tablespoonsfui of flour, three eggs, a tea-
spoonful of salt, aud a pint and a half of milk:
beat it up well, and take care it is not lumpy;
put your dish under the meat, and let the drip-
pings drop into it till it is quite hot and well
greased; then pour in your baiter; when it is
brown and set, then turn it, so as both sides
may be brown alike : if it is to cut firm, it will
take an hour and a half at a good lire.
Plumb Pudding. (No. 553.)
Suet chopped fine, six ounces; malaga raisins
stoned, six ounces ; currants nicely washed and
picked, eight ounces ; bread crumbs, three ounces ;
flour, three ounces ; eggs, three ; the rind of half
a lemon ; sixth of a nutmeg ; small blade of mace ;
same quantity of cinnamon pounded as fine as pos-
sible; half a teaspoonfui of salt; half a pint of milk, or
rather less; sugar, four ounces ; to which may be ad-
ded, candied lemon, two ounces; citron, one ounce.
Beat the eggs and spice well together, mix the milk
with them by degrees, then the rest of the ingre-
dients; dip a fine close linen cloth into boiling
water, and put it in a hair sieve ; flour it a little, and
tie it up close ; put it into a saucepan containing six
quarts of boiling water ; keep a kettle of boiling
water alongside of it, to fill up your pot as it wastes;
be sure to keep it boiling six hours at least.
MADE DISHES.
Obs. If the water ceases to boil, your pudding
will become heavy, and be spoiled; but, if properly
managed, this will be as fine a pudding of the kind
as art can produce. This pudding is best when
mixed over night, as the various ingredients by
that means amalgamate^ and the whole becomes
more rich and fuller of flavour. The stiffer it is
mixed the better ; though the cook who consults
her ease will not thank me for this remark, if with
it she joins that which is indispensable, that the,
various ingredients be THOROUGHLY well beat
together. A little brandy, say two tablespoonsful,
is an improvement to this excellent BRITISH PUD-
DING, which is truly a Britisu dish, with roasted
sirloin of beef, No. 19. See Pudding Sauce, No.
269, and Pudding Catsup, No. 446.
Plumb Pudding. (No. 554.)
Break four eggs into a basin, beat them very
well, then put in by degrees four tablespoonsful of
flour piled as high as the spoon will take; beat the
flour and the eggs together till the batter is quite
smooth and light ; then add four even table-
spoonsful of Lisbon sugar, and half a nutmeg
grated, and a glass of brandy ; beat these in well,
and then stir in a pound of suet cut very tine, or
suet and marrow mixed, a pound of raisins stoned,
some candied lemon or orange-peel sliced. Butter
a basin well, and press the pudding close into it.
Obs. It must boil five hours.
Pease Pudding. (No. 5 5 5 .)
Put a pint of split pease into a clean cloth : (A
MADE DISHES.
not tie them up too close, but leave a little room for
them to swell ; boil them slowly till they are tender;
if they are good pease, they will be boiled enough
in about three hours : take them up, and rub them
through a hair sieve; beat the pulp in a basin
with an egg and an ounce of butter and some pep-
per and salt; when the ingredients are well incor-
porated together, tie it up again in the cloth, and
boil it half an hour longer. It is as good with
boiled beef as it is with boiled pork.
Cumberland Pudding. (No. 556.)
Beat four eggs well, mix them with a pint of milk
and four ounces of lump sugar pounded and sifted ;
raisins stoned, currants washed and picked, ap-
ples chopped fine, of each four ounces; a little
grated nutmeg, and a very litlle salt.
Mix all well together : dip a pudding cloth in
boiling water, wring it, and flour it ; put your
pudding in, and boil it three hours and a half;
send it up with pudding sauce in a boat : see re-
ceipt. No. 268.
Maccarum Pudding. (No. 557.)
Boil a quarter of a pound of maccaroni till it is
lender; then stew it in milk, with a little cinna-
mon, and the rind of half a lemon : when it is
perfectly well done, beat together the yolks of
three eggs with the whites of two, and a glass of
white wine, half a nutmeg, four bitter almonds,
and sugar to your taste ; line the edge, and half
%vay down the side of your pudding dish, with
MADE DISHES, &C.
puff paste, put in the oven ; about half an hour
will bake it.
Rice Pudding. (No. 558.)
Wash and pick half a pound of rice very clean ;
boil it in a cloth till it is quite soft ; then beat it
in a marble mortar, with a quarter of a pound of
butter, and the peel of a lemon ; add to it the
juice of the lemon, or a glass of white wine, three
eggs, yolks and whites beat separately ; spice
and sugar to your taste. An hour and twenty
minutes will boil it.
Ground Rice Pudding. (No. 559.)
Put five (able spoons fill of ground rice into a
stewpan with a pint and a half of cream or milk,
four ounces of sugar, same of butter, and a table-
spoonful of orange flour water: put on the fire,
si ir till it boils ; let it simmer ten minutes in the'
corner of the stove ; then break six eggs, mix the
yolks in your pudding, and beat the whites till
they are in snow ; mix all together, and put them
in a dish, or mould, and put it in the oven ; it re-
quires three quarters of an hour to bake it : do not
take it out of the oven till it is called for.
Custard Pudding. (No. 560.)
Boil a pint of milk ; put the peel of a lemon,
into it, with a bit of cinnamon and three ounces
of sugar ; when it has boiled, break six eggs, rub
them through a silk sieve ; when the milk is a
little cooled, mix it with your eggs, and strain it
three or four times through the sieve ; then take
a plain mould, put a piece of paper to the bottom
just to cover it, that the pudding when done may
stick to the. bottom, cover it with paper, and
MADE DISHES, &C.
put it in a stcwpan with some boiling wafer ; as
soon as it boils, put it in the corner of the stove
that the water only simmer ; it will lake
about forty-five minutes : put your dish upon the
top of the mould, and overset it in the dish.
Orange, Pudding. (No. 561.)
Grate the peel of three oranges into a pint of
milk, with three ounces of sugar and the crumb of
a twopenny roll ; let it just boil, strain it through a
tammis cloth, add four eggs, and the juice of
four oranges : bake it thirty minutes.
White Wine Whey (No. 562.)
Is made, by pouring equal parts of white wine
and skimmed milk into a basin ; and after they
have stood a few minutes, adding a double quan-
tity of boiling water. In a short time the curd
will collect and subside at the bottom : the whey
is now to be strained into another vessel, and
sweetened with sugar : a sprig of balm, or a slice
of lemon, will greatly improve its flavour.
Obs* This is a salubrious beverage taken im-
mediately before retiring to bed, for those who
have undergone severe bodily fatigue, or exposure
to inclement weather, as it will excite a gentle
perspiration, and thus obviate a cold or catarrh.
Beef Tea. (No. 563.)
Beef tea is usually made by cutting a pound of
lean beef into very thin slices or shreds, and boil-
ing it with two blades of mace in a quart of water.
When the scum rises, carefullv remove it while it
7 /
continues boiling, for about a quarter of an hour.
But on considering the effect of heat on the
MADE DISHES, &C.
volatile and spirituous parts of the animal fibre,
when immersed in a fluid medium, we venture to
suggest a more economical method of preparing
beef tea.
Instead of boiling the meat, we would advise it
i^j f
to be minced fine, then to be reduced to a pulp
with a wooden pestle, in an iron or marble mortar,
and so express all its juice; strain it off, and add
a little spice, and an equal or larger proportion of
boiling water.
Obs. Thus the whole essence of the meat
will be preserved, part of which would be vola-
tilized by cooking. Nor does it admit of a doubt,
that by such a mode of preparing it, half a pound
of beef is nearly equal to a whole pound used ac-
cording to the old method.
A jim strengthening Mutton Broth.
(No. 564.)
Two pounds of .mutton or veal cut small, a quar-
ter pound of pearl barley, two quarts of water ; let
it simmer slowly till it will rub through a hair
sieve to the thickness of cream; while preparing,
take care to skim it well, and remove the fat
Barley Water. (No. 565.)
Take a couple of ounces of pearl barley, wash
it clean with cold water, and put it into half a
pint of boiling water, and let it boil for five
minutes; pour off this water, and add to it two
quarts of boiling water : boil it to two pints, and
strain it.
The above is simple barley water ; to a quart
of this is frequently added
Two ounces of figs, sliced.
R 2
HADE DISHES,
The same of raisins, stoned.
Half an ounce of liquorice, sliced and bruised ;
And a pint of water.
Boil till it is reduced to a quart, and strain.
Obs These drinks are intended to assuage
thirst in ardent fevers and other inflammatory dis-
orders, where plenty of mild diluting liquor is
one of the principal remedies ; and if not suggested
by the medical attendant, frequently demanded
by honest instinct, in terms too plain to be mis-
understood : as the stomach sympathizes with
every fibre of the human frame, no part of it can
be distressed, without in some decree offending
the stomach ; therefore it is of the utmost import-
ance to soothe this grand organ, by rendering
every thing we offer to it as elegant and agreeable
as the nature of the case will admit of: the barley
drink prepared according to the second receipt,
will be received with pleasure by the mobt deli-
cate palate.
Sanative English Tea. (No. 566.}
Agrimony, and ground ivy, equal quantities ;
arid half as much of the following; sweet marjo-
ram, pennyroyal, lavender, rose, and cowslip
ilower leaves.
Chop and mix them together, and use them as
India tea.
\
TootJiach and Anti-rheumatic Embrocation.
(No. 567.)
Sal volatile, three parts.
Laudanum, one part.
Mix, and rub (he part a fleeted frequently.
HADE DISHES, &C.
PERISTALTIC PERSUADERS. (No. 568.)
To humour that desire for the marvellous
tvhich is so universal in medical matters, the
contrivers of aperient pills have too often selected
the most drastic purgatives, which operating con-
siderably in a dose of a few grains, excite much
admiration in the patient, and great faith in their
powers, in proportion as a small dose produces
great effects, not considering how extremely irri-
tating such materials must be, and consequently
how injurious to a stomach already in a state of
debility, and perhaps deranged by yesterday's
excess *.
The inventor of the " Peristaltic Persuaders"
gave them that name from the peculiar mildness
of their operation : one or two of these pills
merely give a gentle hmt to that grand organ, the
stomach, and the other principal viscera, helping
them to do their work a little faster, and remove
what is offensive into the bowels, accelerating the
process of digestion, and almost imperceptibly
augmenting the alvine exoneration: if a more
speedy and copious evacuation is desired, take
three, or four, or five, according to circumstances.
*V* These pills are prepared from a prescription of Dr. KITCII-
IMER'S,. and mid by G. D. MIDCLEY, No. 49, Strand, near
the Adelphi, in boxes, 2s. Qd. each.
Stomachic Tincture. (No. 569.)
Cascarilla bark bruised, one ounce.
Orange-peel dried, one ounce.
Brandy, or proof spirit, one pint.
* If the body or mind be fatigued, the stomach invariably
sympathizes; and the most robust find, when they do any
thing too much, the stomach acts retrograde, and does too
little.
MADE DISHES, &C.
Let the ingredients steep for a fortnight, and
decant the clear liquor.
Dose, two or three teaspoonsful in a wine-
glass of water twice a day.
Obs. This is a most agreeable aromatic tonic
^7
io create appetite and promote digestion ; and
when the stomach is in a state of great debility, is
generally much more acceptable to it than any of
the simple or compound tinctures of the Peruvian
bark, or other bitters. As the former recipe is
excellent to remove indigestion, so is this a sove-
reign remedy to strengthen the stomach, and
prevent it ; and in most nervous and languid
chronic complaints of that organ, will be taken
with the greatest advantage.
Paregoric Elixir. (No. 570.)
A drachm of purified opium.
A drachm of flowers of benjamin.
A drachm of oil of anniseed.
Camphor, two scruples.
Steep all in a pint of brandy, or proof spirit :
let it stand ten days, occasionally shaking it up.
Strain.
A teaspoonful in half a pint of water gruel, taken
the last thing at night, is a most effectual medi-
cine to remove coughs and colds.
It is also excellent for children who have the
hooping cough, in doses of from five to twenty
drops in a 'little water.
Dr. Cullens Receipt to make Water Gruel.
(No. 5/1.)
The following is the most agreeable manner of
making water gruel.
MADE DISHES, &C.
One ounce of oatmeal is sufficient to make two
quarts of water gruel.
Put the oatmeal into three quarts of soft cold
water, and set it over the fire. It must be con-
stantly stirred till it boils ; then let it boil till a
third part of the water is boiled away; then pour
it through a linen cloth into a bowl a little larger
than sufficient to contain it. In this bowl leave it
to cool ; when it will be found separated into two
parts, one of them a mealy cloud or sediment,
and the other a very thin and clear liquor. The lat-
ter is to be carefully decanted, or poured off for use.
To render this more agreeable by the addition
of sugar, acids, or aromatics, or to impregnate it
with medicinal substances, I leave to the judg-
ment of the nurse or phj^sician.
See CULLEN'S Mat. Med. vol. i. p. 288. edit.
2 vols. 4to. Edinburgh, 1789.
Water Gruel immediately. (No. 572.)
Mix well together, by degrees, two tablespoons-
ful of oatmeal, and a teaspoonful of salt, with a
quart of cold \vater; set it on the fire, and let it
boil gently for fifteen or twenty minutes, occa-
sionally stirring it to prevent the oatmeal burning
at the bottom of the stewpan : skim it and strain it.
Obs. An ounce of fresh butter, a tablespoon-
ful of brandy, and a teaspoonfui of powdered sugar
may be added.
In the " IVaij to sate Wealth" London, 1697,
in the 8th page are directions how to live for two-
pence a day : the author's observation on water
gruel is, that it makes " a noble and exhilarating
1 !J
meal.
.MADE DISHES, &C.
Anchovy Toast. (No. 573.)
Bone and wash the anchovies, and pound them
in a mortar with a little fresh butter: rub them
through a sieve, and spread them on a toast.
Obs. A ou may add, while pounding the an-
chovies, a little made mustard and curry powder,
or a few grains of Cayenne, or a little mace or
other spice. It may be made still more savoury,
by Irving the toast in clarified butter,
Devilled Biscuit (No. 574.)
Is the above composition spread on a biscuit
warmed before the fire in a Dutch oven, with a
sufficient quantity of salt and savoury spice, or
ze^t, or curry powder, or cayenne pepper sprinkled
over it.
Obs. This ne plus ultra of high spiced re-
lishes, frequently makes its appearance at the fag
end of a tavern dinner, when the votaries of Bac-
chus are determined to vie with each other in
sacrificing to the jolly god, and to celebrate his
festive rites, " con furore."
To ?i arm JFater nitJicut Fire. (No. 575.)
There have been many contrivances to beat
water, &c. immediately, by lamps variously ap-
plied : the most expeditious and easy way is, to
get a frame made to carry a common tin sauce-
pan over a patent lamp; this will make half a
pint of water boil in five minutes, and is a most
valuable acquisition to the sick room.
THE END.
J. MOYES, PRINTER,
Grevilk Street, Ilatton Garden, London.
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