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NORTH    AMERICAN 

IRE    li^ISURANCE    COMPANY 

OF  THE  CITY  OF  NEW  TOMK,  ' 

HSrCORPORATED   1823. 


asJi  Capital  Surplus  Jan.  1,  1860,  $751,653.57. 

Fire  insurance  Exclusively. 

1pS:£X»rA^-'^^^^^^^^^^^  -e  a...  p.. 

,;«  Affi       xr     ..  ''*  GRISWOLD,  General  Ag-ent. 

m  Office,  IVo.  lU  Broadway,  New  York.     Branch  Office,  No.  10  Cooper  Institute. 


c 


DUNCAN,  SHERMAN  &  CO., 

BANKERS, 

Cor.  of  Pine  and  Nassau  Sts.,  New  York, 

ISSUE 

CIRCULAR  LETTERS  OF  CREDIT  AND  [CIRCULAR  NOTES 

FOR    TRAVELLERS, 

AVAILABLE   JN   ALL   THE   PRINCIPAL    CITIES    OF   THE    WORLD. 

ALSO, 

For  Europe,   Soutli  America,  India,  Cliiua,  <tc.,  on  Messrs.    Finlay, 

Hodgson  &  Co.,  of  London. 


DRAFTS  AND  CREDITS  FOR  AUSTRALIA, 

ON  THE  BMK  OF  NEW  SOUTH  WALES,  OF  LONDON. 

IBran.ch.es  and  -A^gencies   at 


NEW  SOUTH  WALES. 

VICTORIA  BRANCHES. 

Sydney, 

Maitland, 

Melbourne, 

Greelongr, 

New  Castle, 

Brisbane, 

Kyneton, 

Castlemain, 

Ipswich, 

Bathnrst, 

Ballaarat, 

Sandhurst, 

Windsor, 

&c.,  &c. 

&c.,  &c. 

&c.,  &c. 

ALSO, 

DRAFTS    ON    SAN    FRANCISCO. 

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H.    H.    C  A  S  E  Y, 

{Late  J.  &  C.  BEUBIAN,) 

IMrOETER  xVND  DEALER  IX  EVERY  DESCRIPTION   OF 


lil',;ll.ii!lllllttT'n!if|P!Wrn!li'!l' 


I'lim 


!!W4S^ 


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;^  ,1         »-*     i^Mf — ^'^     '  .     ■     ^       'j^*-^^-  ^i>-  ^    -^  ■  i  Will       , 


^^^lil 


Oi.-iifp*nriimrt'l 


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601  BROADWAY. 


NEW   YORK 

BELTING  AND  PACKING  CO., 


MANUFACTURERS   OF 


VULCANIZED  RUBBER  FABRICS, 

ADAPTED  TO  MECHANICAL  PIKPOSES. 

Patent  Smooth  Belting  (ratentcd  Nov.  22,  1859),  vulcanized  between  layers  of 
a  patent  metallic  alloy,  by  ■vvhieb  the  stretch  is  entirely  taken  out,  the  surface  made 
perfectly  smooth,  and  the  substance  thoroughly  and  evenly  vulcanized.  This  is  the 
only  process  thai  will  make  reliable  Rubber  Beltinc;. 

Hose  never  needs  oiling,  and  is  warranted  to  stand  any  required  pressure. 

Steam  Packing  in  every  variety,  and  warranted  to  stand  300°  of  heat. 

SOLID   EMERY  VULCANITE. 

Wheels  made  of  this  arc  solid,  and  resemble  stone  or  iron ;  will  wear  out  hun- 
dreds of  the  ordinary  wheels. 

Directions^  Prices,  <S:c.,  can  he  obtained  hj  Mail,  or  otherwise. 

JOHN  IT.  CIIEEVER,  Treasurer. 

Warehouse,  37  and  38  Park  Row,  New  York. 

/ 


THE    STANDARD 


AMERICAN  BILLIARD   TABLES, 

ApproYcd  [and  Adopted  by  tlie  Billiard  Congress  of  1863t 


THE 


S  T 


AND  THE 


ONLY  RELiAl 


ILLIARO  TABLES  MAMUFAGTUREI 


The  most  eminent  players  and  most  compe- 
tent judges  have  given  their  unqualified  approv- 
al to  these  tables,  and  have  publicly  acknowl- 
edged their  unequalled  merit. 

We  have  seven  separate  Patents  for  our 
Combination  Cushions  from  the  U.  S.  Patent 
Office.  The  French  Government  have  lately 
granted  a  patent  for  the  same  admirable  inven- 
tion. 

We  devote  our  whole  time  and  attention  to 
the  perfection  and  improvement  of  the  machin- 
ery of  Billiards,  and  no  other  house  can  so 
readily  and  perfectly  fill  orders  for  all  articles 
in  the  Billiard  line.  There  is  no  other  house 
where  the  machinery  of  Billiards  is  so  fully  un- 
derstood. 

We  have  always  on  hand  an  extensive  as- 
sortment of  tables,  made  of  the  finest  material, 
thoroughly  seasoned.  The  workmanship  is  of 
the  most  scientific  and  accurate  description,  no 
labor  or  expense'  being  spared  to  sustain  the 
reputation  already  achieved  by  Phelan's  Tables. 

Orders  by  mail  carefully  and  promptly  ex- 
ecuted. Illustrated  catalogues  and  price  lists 
sent  by  mail.  The  Billiard  Cue,  a  monthly 
journal,  published  in  the  interest  of  Billiards, 
and  containing  details  of  all  novelties,  a  copi- 
ous monthly  record  of  Billiard  news,  and  every 
thing  of  interest  to  the  amateurs  of  Billiards, 
sent  free  on  application. 


PHIELAB^    &    COLLE^DER, 

63,  65,  67  &  69  CEOSBY  STEEET,  NEW  YOEK. 
9 


L.   T.   BEOWNELL, 


{Late  BMOWNELL  J)  MAHVIN,) 


MANUFACTUEEE    OF 


€£® 


«^     ^ 


READY-MADE  AND  TO  ORDER, 

EXI>IiESSX.Y    inOK.    THE     K-ET^IL,    TR^IDHJ, 


FOE  ME:N''S  AI^D  BOYS'  WEAE. 


Gentlemen  can  find  at  all  times  on  hand  an  extensive  stock  of 


^&¥S&2aM^    g^SS' 


A  complete  and  varied  stock  of 


!«2's  FirnlsMai 


«^#y 


Wafer  Wsar. 


OUR   CUSTOM    DEPARTMENT 


IS   AT   ALL   TIMES   FULL   OF   FOREIGN    SPECIALTIES. 


Our  ^JRICJES  at  all  times  ^moderate. 


ST.    IsTICIIOI^AS    BLOCK,    503    BKOi^DT^AY. 


D.    RUSSELL, 

MERCHANT  TAILOR, 


835  BROADWAY, 


(COENER  13TH  STREET.)  NEW  TORK. 


I  receive  during  the  season,  direct,  the  latest  London  styles  of  Goods,  selected  [ 

from  the  best  West  End  houses.  ' 

IMPORTANT  TO  TRAVELLERS. 


BINOCULAR  LANDSCAPE  GLASSES. 

InTalnable  to  Sportsmen,  Officers,  Travellers,  etc. 
Compact,  Portable,  Efficient, 

Combining  extraordinary  defining  power  and  wide  field  of 
observation. 

Spectacles,    Eye-Glasses,    Railway   Protectors,    etc.,   to 

strengthen  and  improve  the  sight  of  old  and  young,  without 

the  distressing  results  of  frequent  changes,  in  endless  variety,  by  the  manufacturer  and 
inventor. 

SEMMONS,  OcLilist-Optician, 
OOO'^/q  Mroadiuay,  Under  Lafarge  House, 

INERAL  SPRING  WATERS, 

Dispensed  by  the  glass,  as  well  as  sold  in  bottle,  at 

§0§  BKOABWAY,  Opposite  Eleventli  Street. 


JLissingefl,  preferred  to  Congress ;  Vicliy,  Antacid ;  JPi/miout,  Chalyb- 
eate, and  every  other  for  which  there  is  adequate  demand. 

HANBURY  SMITH,  M.  D, 

B  i 


FO^   SAVANNAH,   GEORGIA, 


TTTE   ELEGANT  SIDE-WHEEL  STEAMSHrPS 

.A-lXr     JS  ^^  Ij  "^T"  ..^Su  33  O  SiL  , 
1,500   Tons   Burthen,   ATKINS,    Commander,   and 

1,500   Tons   Burthen,    LOVELAND,    Commander, 

Have  been  placed  permanently  on  this  route,  and  are  offered  to  the  travellinc:  public  as  more  com- 
modious and  comfortable  in  their  apxwintmcuts  than  any  other  vessels  in  the  trade. 

SAIL  EVERY  SATURDAY  at  3  o'clock,  P.  M., 
Landing  Passengers  in  SAVANNAH  invariably  on  Tuesday  folio-wing.    Eeturning, 

Lcaye  SAVMNAH  every  SATURDAY,  arriving  in  New  York  Tnesdays. 

Passcncrers  for  Northern  Alabama,  Florida,  and  points  South,  on  the  coast,  and  those  to  whom 
time  is  an  object,  will  consult  their  interests  and  promote  their  comfort  by  taking  this  route. 

These  vessels,  althoufrh  of  lar2:e  carrying  capacity,  are  enabled,  by  their  light  draught  of  water,  to 
insure  no  detention  in  the  Savannah  Eiver.     For  passage  or  Freight  apply  to 

GARRISON  &  ALLEN,  Agents, 

No.   5  BoAvliiig  Grcon,  New  Yoric  City, 

{^^  Goods  for  the  interior  of  Georgia  and  Florida  forwarded  by  B.  II.  HARDEE,  Agent  at 
Savannah. 


FOR    i^EW   ORLEANS 


ATLANTIC  AND  MISSISSIPFI  S.  8.  LINE.— FIRST-CLASS  STEAMSHIPS  AND  SUPE- 
RIOR ACCOMMODATIONS  FOR  PASSENGERS.     $40  FIRST  CABIN  PASSAGE. 

SAILING  EVERY  WEDNESDAY. 

Running  in  connection  with  the  Atlantic  and  Mississippi  S.  S.  Co.,  of  St.  Louis,  to  all  points 
ot  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Rivers.    Through  Bills  of  Lading  given  for  Freight. 

One  of  the  elegant  steamers  of  this  new  Line  will  sail  every  week  from  New  York  and  New 
Orleans,  carrying  passengers  at  the  low  rate  of  $40  currency. 

GAUaiSON  &  AliliiEN,  Agents, 
Nkw  Orleans  :  104  Common  Street.  5  Bowling  Geeen,  New  York. 


STATES   AND    BRAZIL 


STEAMSHIP  GOI 

"With  tli8  Governments  of  tlie  United  States  and  Brazil, 

Will  despatch  one  of  their  new,  first-class  steamships,  each  over  2,000  tons  burthen, 
on  the  29th  of  every  month,  from  the  Port  of  New  York  for  the  following  named 
Ports,  and  the  following  rates  of  passage,  payable  in  coin,  or  its  equivalent  in  United 
States  currency  : 

NEW     YORK     TO 


ST.  THOMAS $80 

PARA 150 

PEHNAMBTJCO 170 


BAHIA $180 

RIO  DE  JANEIRO 200 


Steerage  at  half  these  rates  ;  meals  and  bedding  included. 
An  experienced  Surgeon  attached  to  each  vessel. 
All  letters  must  pass  through  the  Post-Office.     Postage  10  cents. 
For  further  information.  Freight  or  Passage,  apply  to 

GAEEISO]^  &  ALLEN,  Agents, 

JVb.  ^r  BOWLING  GUBEN,  N.   T, 


UNITED  STATES  MAIL  LINE  TO  HAVANA. 

The  elegant,  new  Steamships 

I^ORRO    CASTLE,    EAGLE,   and  COLUP^^SIA, 

Built  expressly  for  the  trade,  and  having  most  superior  accommodations,  will  con- 
tinue to  run  regularly  to  HAY  ANA,  sailing  from  Pier  4  North  River,  every  WED- 
NESDAY, at  3  o'clock  p.  M.     Returning,  leave  Havana  every  SATURDAY. 

For  further  information.  Freight  or  Passage,  apply  to 

GAMMISON  &  ALLElSr,   Agents, 

\  K"o.  5  BOWIiING-  GREEIT,  NEW  TORK. 

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UNION      SQUARE 


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The    undersigned,  for   many   years    proprietor   of  the 
Bellevue  and  Fillmore  Houses,  will  open  the 

(late  U.  S.  Naval  Academy)  on  the  27th  May.  Its  location 
is  the  finest  in  Newport,  on  the  crest  of  "  The  Hill,"  fronting 
west  on  Bellevue  Avenue,  and  north  on  Touro  Park,  and 
central  to  the  attractions  of  this  fashionable  resort. 

IT     IS     HEATED     BY     STEAM, 

and  will  thus  insure  the  comfort  of  its  Guests  in  the  cool 
mornings  and  evenings  of  the  Spring  and  Autumn. 

WM.  W.  HAZARD, 

I^roprietor, 


m 


XiOKTCS-    BEu^:N"CH,   3>T,   J., 


C.  A.  STETSON  &  CO. 


>♦• 


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ittamt 


©mg^ 


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•ff  ^  A  I 


IS  isroTv  oiPEisr 

for  the  accommodation  of  guests.  !Rooms  can  be  secured 
on  application  at  the  Astok  House,  N.  Y.,  or  by  telegraph 
or  letter  to  Lone;  Branch. 

C.  A.  STETSON,  Jr.,  &  CO. 


n 


'?:j   d^t, 


V 


ST.  LOUIS, 


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f FOURTH    STREET,   BETWEEN    OLIVE  AND    LOCUST. 


I 


I.  B.  GILDERSLEVE. 


TI^B 


s.A.isr  r:E^.A.isrcisco- 


Capital  paid  up     -     -     -     -     $5,000,000  (gold) 


D.  O.  MILLS President. 

W.  C.  RALSTON Cashier. 


AGENTS: 

IN  ISTEW  YORK Mesprs.  LEES  &  WALLETS 

IN  LONDON OEIENTAL  BANK  COKPOPtATIOTs 


This  Bank  issues  Letters  of  Credit^  available  for  foe  purchase  of  Mex 
chandise  in  the  East  Indies,  China,  Japan,  Australia,  and  other  countries,  autborizinf- 

Bills  on  the  Oriental  Bank  Corporation,  London. 


©MAS 


F©m  SAE.; 


OIN"  THE  ^TLi^lSTXIC  CITIES. 


London, 
IParis, 


ALSO,    ON 

Dublin, 
Hamhnrg, 


Amsterdam, 
Bremen, 


and  other  leading  European  Cities.     Also,  on  the  Branches  of  the  Oriental  Banl 

at  Uong-Kong  and  other  Asiatic  Ports. 


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I-IXI'I.ANATION                   \  j                    '^'    I        \                '  I 

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n>J^'?'"'^""    '^      BRITISH    PROVINCE 


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APPLETONS'  HAND-BOOK 


OF 

[ERICAN^   TEAYEL. 

THE   NORTHERN   TOUR; 

BEING   A   GUIDE   THROUGH 

RK,    CONNECTICUT,    RHODE    ISLAND,    MASSACHUSETTS,    NEW 
EIRE,   VERMONT,  MAINE,  NEW  JERSEY,   DELAWARE,  PENN- 
ANIA,  OHIO,  INDIANA,  ILLINOIS,  MISSOURI,  IOWA,  MINNE- 
TA,  WISCONSIN,  MICHIGAN,  KANSAS,  NEBRASKA,  CALI- 
FORNIA, OREGON,  WASHINGTON,  ARIZONA,  NEW 
MEXICO,  NEVADA,  UTAH,  IDAHO,  MONTANA, 
COLORADO,  AND  DACOTAH. 

"WITH  BESCEIPTIVE   SKETCHES  OF 

,    TOWNS,    WATERFALLS,     BATTLE-FIELDS,    MOUNTAINS,    RIVERS,    LAKES,    HUNT- 
AND    FISHING   GROUNDS,    WATERING   PLACES,    SUMMER    RESORTS,    AND 
ALL    SCENES   AND    OBJECTS   OP   IMPORTANCE   AND   INTEREST. 

I  WITH  MAPS  OF  THE 

'¥G  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL  AND  OF  TEE  FlilNGIPAL  CITIES. 


BY 

EDWAUD    n.    HALL. 


"  When  Ihoa  haply  seest 
Some  rare,  noteworthy  object  in  thy  travels, 
Make  me  partaker  of  thy  happiness." — Shakespeare, 


j  NINTH  ANNUAL    EDITION. 

i 

I 

NEW    YORK: 

PPLETON    &    CO.,     443     &    445     BROADWAY, 
i  LONDON:    TRUBNER    &    CO. 

1867. 


w^ 


on 


NO  TI  GE, 


No  expense  or  labor  will  be  spared  to  make  the  Hand-Book  of  American  Tru 
attractive,  comprehensive,  concise,  and  every  way  reliable. 

The  next  American  Edition  will  be  published  in  May,  1868,  and  an;;         ■ 
in  regard  to  errors  and  omissions,  which  those  who  use  this  work  may  <> 
facts  of  interest  and  value — particularly  in  respect  to  new  routes  and 
tions — will  be  gratefully  received  and  considered.     Such  communicatio: 
addressed  to  the  Editor,  care  of  the  Publishers. 


The  population  of  Cities  and  Towns  mentioned  in  this  work  are  t^ 
the  last  National  Census — 1860 — except  when  otherwise  stated. 


IJ^"  Advertisers  wishing   to  change   or  discontihiie   their  advert! 
please  to  inform  the  Editor  to  such  effect,  on  or  before  April  1st  of  eai.:i  year,  v 
the  necessary  alterations  may  be  made  in  time  for  the  new  edition. 


The  Editor  of  "  Appletons'  Hand-Book  "  is  alone  responsible  for  th( 
contained  in  its  pages.  No  other  person  is  authorized  to  procure  adver 
receive  money  or  other  favors  from  Hotel-keepers  or  Tradesmen  on  ac 
Hand-BooU,  as  recommendatmis  in  this  work  are  not  to  be  purchased  ; 
result  of  pei'sonal  experience  or  disinterested  information  only ;  and 
here  represented  fail  to  fulfil  their  obligations  to  the  pubUc,  they  wil 
from  its  pages. 


Entered,  accordin^T  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1867,  by 

D.  APPLETON  &   CO., 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the) 

District  of  New  York. 


/ 


PREFACE. 


To  meet  the  increased  and  steadily  increasing  demand  for  a 
•eliable  Tourists'  Guide  and  Hand-Book  of  Travel  in  the  United 
States  and  British  Provinces,  this  work  has  been  specially  pre- 
oared,  and  will  hereafter  be  published  annually  on  the  1st  of  May. 

Accuracy,  conciseness,  and  abov^e  all  a  just  discrimination  of 
:he  relative  importance  of  the  several  objects  described,  have  been 
ohe  chief  aims  of  the  compiler ;  and  it  is  confidently  believed 
:hat  the  following  pages  embody  a  larger  amount  of  desirable  in- 
Tormation  for  the  traveller  in  tliis  country,  than  can  be  found  in 
xny  other  single  work  extant.  / 

While  the  original  plan  of  the  work  has  been  preserved,  nuraer- 
:)us  important  additions  have  been  made,  not  least  of  which  are 
the  copious,  well-engraved  maps,  routes,  and  tables  of  distances. 
The  difficulty  attending  the  compilation  of  such  a  work  as  this  is 
too  well  known  to  need  more  than  passing  mention  here.  How  far 
this  difficulty  has  been  increased  by  the  numerous  changes  conse- 
quent upon  the  late  war,  and  the  rapid  growth  of  our  Western  Ter- 
litories,  the  intellig-ent  reader  can  well  imasfine.  While  the  "  Hand- 
Book  "  is  mainly  the  result  of  the  editor's  own  personal  observation, 
he  having  visited  every  section  of  the  Union  during  its  preparation, 
it  is  also  largely  made  up  from  the  Avritings  and  experiences  of 


144^1/ 


ly  PREFACE. 

Others,  to  whom  the  author  returns  his  grateful  acknowledgments. 
A  list  of  the  authorities  quoted  from  will  be  found  in  its  appropriate 
place.  An  analytical  table  of  contents  and  a  complete  alphabet- 
ical index  are  added,  which  exhibit  at  a  glance  the  yariety  and 
character  of  the  subjects  referred  to  in  the  work,  and  greatly  facil- 
itate reference  thereto. 


♦-»-* • 

[F<yr  names  of  Hotels,  Bescriptm  of  Routes,  Cities,  Towm,  Tillages,  and  Objects  of  Interest, 
see  General  Index.'] 
INTRODUCTORY  REIMARKS. 

Some  Parting  Words  to  the  Traveller,  of  Explanation  and  Advice,  Plan  of  the  Book; 
Money,  Travelling  Expenses,  Baggage,  Hotels,  Waiters,  etc.;  Tickets  Outfits, 
Costumes,  Insurance,  Steamship  Lines,  Obligations,  etc. ;  the  TraveUer's  Almanac, 
Memoranda,  etc. 

THE  UNITED  STATES. 

Extent,  Divisions,  Population,  etc.,  1-4. 

5 
NEW  YORK, 

New  York  City,  6;  Brooklyn,  24;  Staten  Island,  28 ;  Long  Island,  29  ;  Trip  up  the  Hudson 
River  32;  the  Kaatskills,  40 ;  Lake  Mahopac,  45;  Saratoga  Springs,  46;  Lake  Cham- 
plain,' 50  ;  New  York  and  Erie  Railway,  51 ;  Niagara  Falls,  58 ;  the  Adirondack  Moun- 
tains,' Saranac  Lakes,  etc.,  64 ;  Trenton  Falls,  67. 

CONNECTICUT, 

New  Haven  and  Yale  College,  71 ;  Hartford  and  Trinity  College,  72. 

RHODE  ISLAND, 

Providence  and  Vicinity,  76 ;  Newport,  78 ;  Woonsocket,  79. 

80 
MASSACHUSETTS, 

Routes,  New  York  to  Boston,  81 ;  Boston  and  vicinity,  81 ;  the  State-House,  85 ;  Harvard 

University,  87;  Mount  Auburn,  88;   Nahant,  90  ;  Plymouth  Rock,  91;   Cambridge,  92 ; 

Lowell,  94 :  the  Connecticut  Valley,  96. 

101 
NEW  HAMPSHIRE,     .        .        . • 

Concord,  103;  Dartmouth  College,  105;  Lake  Winnipisaukee,  106;  the  White  Moun- 
tains,  108. 

VERMONT, 

Winooski  Valley  and  Mount  Mansfield,  115  ;  Lake  Memphremagog,  117. 

^                                                                                                             ...         119 
MAINE, 

Portland,  120 ;  Augusta,  122 ;  Mount  Katahdin,  124 ;  the  Kennebec  River,  125. 

126 
NEW  JERSEY, '        ' 

Routes  to  Philadelphia,  etc.,  126;  Princeton  and  Trenton,  128;  Burlington  129;  Long 

Branch,  130 ;  Cape  May,  131 ;  Schooley's  Mountain  and  Greenwood  Lake,  132. 

133 
DELAWARE, 

Wilmington  and  Vicinity,  134 ;  the  Eastern  Shore,  136 ;  Havre  de  Grace,  136. 


yi  CO^^TENTS. 

PENNSYLVAOTA, Page  133 

The  Susquehanna,  161 ;  Philadelphia,  139 ;  Laurel  Hill,  150 ;  the  Schuylkill  and  Vicinage, 
152 ;  Harrisburg,  15G ;  the  Juniata  River,  158 ;  Pittsburg,  159 ;  Meadville  and  the  Oil 
Eegion,  163 ;  Bethlehem  and  the  Moravian  College,  166 ;  the  Wyoming  Valley,  167 ; 
Gettysburg,  169 ;  Bedford  Springs,  171. 

OmO, 172 

Cincinnati,  173 ;  Vicinity,  176 ;  Ilamilton  and  Toledo,  177. 

INDIANA,  182 

Indianapolis,  183 ;  Terre  Haute,  etc.,  184. 

ILLINOIS, ISO 

Chicago,  188 ;  Springfield  and  Oak  Ridge,  194 ;  Galena  and  its  Lead  Mines,  197 ;  Cairo,  198. 

MISSOURI, 199 

Rivers,  200 ;  St.  Louis,  201 ;  Jefferson  City,  204 ;  St.  Joseph,  204. 

IOWA, 20G 

Dubuque,  Burlington,  and  other  Cities  and  Towns,  207. 

MINNESOTA, 210 

Its  Lakes  and  Rivers,  211 ;  St.  Paul  and  Vicinity,  212.;  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  213 ;  Fort 
Snelling,  214;  the  Minnesota  Valley,  216;  Stillwater  and  Lake  St.  Croix,  217;  Wi- 
nona, 218. 

WISCONSIN, 219 

Its  Rivers,  etc.,  220 ;  Milwaukee,  221 ;  Madison,  222 ;  Green  Bay  and  its  Surroundings,  224. 

MICHIGAN, 226 

Detroit,  227 ;  Grand  Rapids,  Kalamazoo,  and  other  Cities  and  Towns,  229. 

KANSAS, 230 

Leavenworth,  Lawrence,  and  other  Towns,  232. 

NEBRASKA, 233 

Omaha  City  and  Vicinity,  233. 

CALIFORNIA,  235 

Its  Discovery,  History,  and  Settlement,  235 ;  Voyage  from  New  York,  236 ;  San  Francisco, 
240 ;  Sacramento,  241 ;  Mount  Shasta,  246 ;  Nevada  Mountains,  248 ;  Lake  Tahoe,  251 ; 
the  Geysers,  252;  Stockton  and  the  Big  Tree  Groves,  253;  the  Yo-Semite  Valley,  257 ; 
San  Jose  and  the  Almaden  Mines,  259 ;  Voyage  from  San  Francisco  up  the  Coast,  262 ; 
Routes  and  distances,  264. 

OREGON, 265 

The  Columbia  and  Willamette  Rivers,  266 ;  Moiint  Hood  and  the  Cascade  Range,  266 ; 
Portland  and  Routes  thence,  267. 

WASHINGTON, 269 

Olympia  and  Puget  Sound,  270 ;  Trip  to  the  British  Possessions,  270. 

ARIZONA, 271 

NEW  MEXICO, 273 

NEVADA 275 

Virginia,  Carson,  Austin,  and  other  Towns,  275. 

UTAH, 278 

Great  Suit  Lake  City  and  its  Institutions,  278. 


CONTENTS.  yii 

IDAHO, Page  280 

Boise  City,  Lewiston,  and  other  Cities  and  Towns,  280. 

MONTANA, 282 

Routes  from  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  282 ;  Virginia  City  and  Helena,  283. 

COLORADO, ,       .      284 

Denver  and  its  Vicinity,  284 ;  Routes,  etc.,  285. 

DACOTAH, S86 

THE  BRITISH  PROYINTCES. 

CANADA, .      434 

Geography,  Discovery,  Government,  etc.,  435 ;  Springs,  Waterfalls,  etc.,  436 ;  Montreal, 
437 ;  Montreal  to  Niagara  Falls  by  Steamer,  440 ;  Ottawa  and  the  Rideau  Falls,  441 ; 
Toronto  and  Hamilton,  443 ;  the  Lake  Region,  444 ;  Quebec,  446  ;  the  Saguenay,  449. 

NEW  BRUNSWICK, 451 

The  St.  John  River  and  Scenery,  452;  Fredericton,  St.  Andrews,  and  other  Towns,  453. 

NOVA  SCOTIA, 454 

Its  Coast,  Rivers,  Lakes,  and  Bays,  454 ;  Halifax  and  Vicinity,  455. 


INTRODUCTION. 


-♦-♦-♦- 


THE    PLAN    OF    THE  BOOK. 

In  preparing  the  ninth  year's  issue  of  "  Appletons'  Hand-Book,"  the 
editor  has  thought  it  best  to  continue  the  original  plan  of  the  work,  and 
follow  the  familiar  geographical  order  of  the  several  States,  as  that  best 
adapted  to  the  special  tastes  and  convenience  of  travellers  wishing  to  visit 
the  respective  points  and.  objects  of  interest.  Thus,  in  making  the  "  South- 
ern Tour,"  the  traveller  starting  from  New  York  finds  his  true  "  point  of 
dejDarture  "  at  Baltimore,  in  the  chai3ter  on  Maryland.  Continuing  his 
route  thence  by  steamer  or  rail,  the  Guide  accompanies  him  through  Vir- 
ginia and  the  Carolinas  to  the  Gulf  coast,  and  up  the  valley  of  the  Lower 
Mississippi,  till  he  finally  reaches  Louisville,  Cincinnati,  or  St.  Louis,  on 
his  return  northward.  The  same  with  the  Eastern,  Northern,  Pacific,  and 
Canadian  tours.  Instead  of  selecting  a  particular  route,  and  seeing  all  it 
ofiers  of  attraction,  we  have,  with  few  exceptions,  jumped  at  once  to  our 
especial  destination,  and  then  intimated  the  way  by  which  it  is  reached. 
Thus,  if  the  traveller  happens  to  be  in  New  York  and  desires  to  go  to  New 
Orleans,  he  will,  by  turning  to  New  Orleans,  in  the  chapter  on  Louisiana, 
find  the  routes  thither.  The  chief  cities  are  taken  as  starting-points  for 
all  other  and  lesser  places  in  their  neighborhood.  Thus  Philadelphia  is 
made  the  point  of  radiation  for  Pennsylvania ;  Charleston  and  Columbia 
for  South  Carolina ;  Boston  for  Massachusetts ;  Nashville  for  Tennessee ; 
San  Francisco  for  California  and  the  Pacific  Coast,  and  so  on.  It  has  not, 
of  course,  been  possible  to  mention  every  village  or  town  in  the  Union,  in 
the  narrow  limits  of  a  pocket-volume  like  this.  Sketches  of  many  places 
which,  owing  to  the  difficulty  of  reaching  them,  are  unavoidably  left  out, 
will,  it  is  hoped,  appear  in  future  editions  of  the  work. 

MONEY. 
United  States  Treasury  notes  {greeribaclcs)  are  everywhere  current  through- 
out the  country.     Gold  and  silver  readily  pass,  but  as  they  command  a 


X  INTRODUCTION. 

premium  over  paper,  and  are,  moreover,  less  portable,  they  are  less  desir- 
able for  the  traveller's  use.  In  California  gold  and  silver  are  in  gen- 
eral circulation,  and  the  traveller  will  find  it  convenient  to  use  them 
in  place  of  Treasury  notes.  The  notes  of  Eastern  banks  should,  on  no 
account,  be  taken,  as  they  may  sometimes  subject  the  holder  to  annoyance. 
The  safest  and  most  convenient  shape  in  which  to  put  your  money  for  cur- 
rent exj)enses  on  long  trips  is  that  of  letters  of  credit  or  circular  notes — the 
former  being  preferable.  These  are  issued  by  the  leading  banking-houses 
in  New  York  and  elsewhere  in  the  United  States.  The  well-known  bank- 
ing firms  of  Duncan,  Sherman  &  Company,  and  Brown  Brothers  &  Co., 
issue  such  letters,  payable  in  all  the  principal  Southern  and  Western  cities. 
Their  announcements  will  be  found  in  our  advertising  columns.  A  reason- 
able sui:)j)ly  of  fractional  currency  ("  stamps  ")  will  save  the  traveller  fre- 
quent inconvenience  in  making  change  at  railway  stations,  omnibus 
stands,  etc.  •         • 

TRAVELLING    EXPENSES. 

This  is  a  sufficiently  important  feature  of  the  trip  to  merit  a  separate 
consideration.  The  cost  of  living  and  travelling  throughout  the  Northern 
and  Southern  States,  with  few  exceptions,  has  materially  increased  since 
the  war.  Six  to  seven  dollars  a  day  will  be  found  a  fair  estimate.  (For 
hotel  expenses,  see  Hotels.) 

BAGGAGE. 

"  As  little  baggage  as  possible  "  is  always  a  good  rule,  though  a  liberal 
supply  is  permitted  on  the  railways,  and  almost  any  quantity  on  the  steam- 
boats. On  stage  lines  the  prescribed  limit  of  sixty  to  eighty  pounds  can- 
not be  exceeded  without  extra  charge.  The  "check"  system,  so  univer- 
sally practised  throughout  the  North,  has  been  i^retty  generally  ado]3ted 
on  the  Southern  lines  of  railway.  Many  of  the  omnibus  lines  in  the  South- 
em  and  far  Western  cities  are  reaping  an  ill-gotten  harvest  by  imposing 
on  the  ignorance  and  credulity  of  strangers  in  this  regard.  As  a  general 
rule,  the  traveller  will  best  consult  his  own  convenience  and  interest  by 
retaining  his  check  until  he  arrives  at  his  destination,  and  then  proceeding 
to  his  hotel  iu  a  carriage  with  his  baggage.  If  you  purchase  an  omnibus 
ticket  you  have,  in  most  instances,  to  pay  separately  for  your  baggage, 
either  to  the  agent  in  the  cars  or  in  settling  your  bill  at  the  hotel.  In 
travelling  by  stage,  or  in  making  short  trips  from  the  centres  of  travel  to 
the  interior,  a  carpet-bag  or  small  valise  will  be  found  the  most  convenient 
form  of  baggage,  as  in  many  instances  it  will  be  requisite  for  the  traveller 
t .'  play  the  part  of  j)orter. 


INTRODUCTION.  xi 

HOTELS. 

Witli  few  exceptions,  tlie  hotels  of  the  principal  cities  South  and  "West 
will  compare  favorably  with  those  of  the  older  and  more  thickly  settled 
sections  of  the  country,  and  perforce  with  those  of  any  other  part  of  the 
world.  Barnum's  and  the  Eutaw,  in  Baltimore ;  the  Metropolitan  and 
Ebbett,  in  Washington;  the  Exchange  and  Ballard's,  in  Richmond ;  the 
Mills  House  and  Charleston  Hotel,  in  Charleston ;  the  Pulaski  and  the 
Marshall  House  in  Savannah ;  the  St.  Louis  and  St.  Charles,  in  New  Or- 
leans ;  the  Louisville,  in  Louisville ;  the  Southern  and  Everett  Hotels  (the 
Lindell  Hotel  rebuilding),  in  St.  Louis ;  and  the  Sherman  and  Tremont 
Houses,  in  Chicago,  are  all  strictly  first-class  establishments.  The  charges  at 
these  houses  range  from  $3.50  to  $5.00  per  day,  which  includes  everything 
except  private  parlors,  wines,  and  extra  attendance.  Four  dollars  per  day, 
or  $28.00  a  week,  will  be  found  a  safe  average.  Other  houses  of  good 
rejDute,  having  the  best  hotel  accommodation  the  several  cities  afford,  will 
be  found  throughout  the  work.  Among  the  most  desirable  hotels  in  New 
York  are  the  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel  and  the  Hoffman  House,  on  Madison 
square,  at  the  intersection  of  Broadway  and  Fifth  Avenue  ;  the  Everett 
House,  occupying  a  conspicuous  and  eligible  situation  at  the  north  end  of 
Union  Square,  and  the  Brevoort  House  on  Fifth  Avenue,  at  its  intersection 
with  Eighth  Street  (Clinton  Place).  The  last-named  house  has  one  of  the 
most  delightful  locations  in  the  city,  combining  the  quiet  retirement  of  a 
private  mansion  with  ready  access  to  Broadway  and  the  leading  thorough- 
fares. This  has  always  been  a  favorite  stopping-place  with  Europeans 
visiting  the  United  States.  The  plan  upon  which  it  is  kept,  and  the  sys- 
tem adopted  by  its  proprietary,  being  such  as  to  specially  commend  it  to 
those  accustomed  to  European  habits.  From  the  observatory  of  the  Fifth 
Avenue  Hotel  a  fine  view  of  the  city  and  the  neighboring  bay  is  to  be  had. 
The  house  is  fitted  with  a  passenger-elevator,  or  vertical  railway,  for  the 
use  of  guests.  Those  fond  of  the  quiet  and  retirement  of  private  life  com- 
bined with  the  luxuries  of  hotel  cuisine^  will  find  the  Everett  a  desirable 
stopping-place.  The  Hoffman  House  has  been  recently  (18G5)  opened,  and 
the  furniture  is  new  and  of  the  best  quality.  The  Hoffman  is  conducted 
on  the  European  plan.  The  cuisine  and  attendance  are  excellent.  For 
those  who  decide  to  make  a  stay  in  Phiiadelj^hia,  on  their  way  South  or 
West,  the  Continental  is  the  most  desirable  hotel.  The  well-known  repu- 
tation of  this  fine  house  is  well  sustained  by  its  present  management, 
Messrs.  Kingsley  &  Co.  In  Boston  the  Revere  and  Tremont,  American  and 
United  States,  are  the  best  worthy  of  patronage.  The  two  former  are 
especially  adapted  to  families.  The  Lick  House,  and  the  Occidental  and 
Cosmopolitan  Hotels,  in  San  Francisco,  are  admirably  conducted  establish- 
ments.   Travellers  through  Canada  will  find  the  best  accommodation  at  the 


xii  INTRODUCTION. 

St.  Lawrence  Hall  in  Montreal,  and  at  Russell's  and  the  St.  Louis  in 

Quebec. 

WAITERS  OR  SERVANTS. 

It  is  not  tlie  custom  in  America,  as  in  Europe,  to  fee  waiters  at  the 
hotels,  though  it  may  very  properly  be  done  for  especial  personal  service. 
It  is  often  done  by  those  who  prefer  hot  dinners  to  cold  when  they  happen 
to  "  come  late,"  or  who  may  have  a  fancy  for  some  rare  dish  when  it  un- 
luckily happens  to  be  "  all  out."  Waiters,  especially  the  "  unprofessional s," 
who  largely  outnumber  the  "  regular  hands,"  are  frequently  guilty  of  im- 
pertinences in  large  j)023ular  hotels.  A  word  to  the  steward  or  head-waiter, 
a  functionary  always  at  hand  in  every  well-regulated  hotel  dining-room, 
will  sj)eedily  put  matters  right.  On  the  other  hand,  let  gentlemen  remem- 
ber that  it  is  im230ssible  for  a  waiter,  however  proficient,  to  wait  on  more 
than  one  at  a  time  and  do  it  well.  By  due  attention  to  these  matters, 
much  needless  annoyance  will  be  saved. 

TICKETS. 

Tickets  on  the  railways  should  be  purchased  at  the  railway  ofiice  before 
starting,  otherwise  a  small  additional  charge  will  be  made.  If  a  long 
journey  over  various  roads  is  intended,  it  is  cheaper  and  more  convenient 
to  buy  a  through  ticket  to  the  end  of  the  route,  or  for  as  long  a  distance  as 
possible.  What  are  called  "  lay-over"  or  accommodation  tickets,  aflbrding 
opportunities  to  the  traveller  to  visit  points  of  interest  on  his  line  of  route, 
can  always  be  obtained  on  the  leading  through-lines.  On  the  steamboats 
the  tickets  for  passage,  for  meals,  and  berths,  can  be  jDurchased  at  the 
passenger's  leisure  at  the  ''  captain's  oflice." 

OUTFITS,   COSTUMES,  Etc. 

At  the  springs  and  watering-places  of  the  South  and  West,  generally, 
the  same  resources  of  toilet  will  be  found  necessary  as  in  the  city  salon  or 
the  most  fashionable  resorts  of  the  North — that  is,  for  the  ladies.  The  gen- 
tlemen will  best  consult  their  own  tastes  and  circumstances  as  regards  their 
wardrobe  and  outfit  generally.  Let  me  advise  my  reader,  however,  what- 
ever else  he  may  omit  to  take,  not  to  fail  to  supply  himself  with  a  travel- 
ling suit  equal  to  the  wear  and  tear  of  rough  mountain  life.  If  the  color 
be  a  gray  or  a  l^rown,  so  much  the  better  in  the  dust  of  railway  and  stage 
routes.  Get  a  felt  hat — it  is  not  readily  crushed  on  your  head  in  car  or  car- 
riage, or  blown  overboard  from  steamboats.  Storm,  178  Broadway,  under 
the  Howard  Hotel,  has  a  fine  assortment.  Leave  thin  boots  (this  especially 
to  the  ladies)  at  home,  and  go  well  and  comfortably  shod  in  stout  calf  shin. 
It  is  a  pity  to  be  kejjt  in-doors  by  the  fear  of  spoiling  one's  gaiters  or  wet- 
ting one's  feet,  when  the  meadows  and  hills  and  brooks  are  inviting  you 
abroad.     In  mountain  tramps,  a  generous-sized  flask  may  be  slung  over  the 


INTRODUCTION.  xiii 

shoulder  with  very  picturesque  effect.  If  filled  witli  generous  "  cognac," 
beware  of  too  picturesque  an  effect,  especially  if  you  be  in  the  company  of 
a  certain  party. 

In  the  way  of  clothing,  the  traveller  cannot  do  better  than  call  on  Mr. 
D.  Russell,  No.  835  Broadway,  corner  of  Thirteenth  Street.  All  the  gar- 
ments made  by  this  long-established  and  well-known  house  are  adapted  to 
the  wants  of  gentlemen  of  taste  who  apj^reciate  style  and  quality  in 
clothing. 

Brownell  (late  Brownell  &  Marvin),  at  No.  503  Broadway,  in  the  St. 
Nicholas  block,  keeps  a  fine  assortment  of  ready-made  clothing  and  fur- 
nishing goods. 

A  good  trunk  is  an  indispensable  article  of  outfit  for  either  lady  or 
gentleman.  Messrs.  J.  T.  Smi1;h  &  Co.,  at  344  Broadway,  have  the  most 
extensive  assortment  in  the  city,  embracing  every  kind  of  travelling  pack- 
age from  the  largest  sized  "  Saratoga,"  down  to  the  smallest  valise,  carjpet- 
sack,  and  haversack.     Their  goods  are  of  the  best  quality  and  make. 

Edwin  A.  Brooks's  bo(,)t  and  shoe  store  is  at  575  Broadway,  convenient 
to  the  principal  hotels.  His  stock  of  ready-made  custom-work  is  large, 
and  his  fits  are  warranted.  By  leaving  their  measure,  joarties  going  into 
the  interior  can  be  supplied  at  any  given  point. 

Mr.  Union  Adams,  at  No.  637  Broadway,  offers  opportunities  for 
making  selections  in  gentlemen's  furnishing  goods  unequalled  elsewhere  in 
New  York.  His  stock  is  large  and  rich,  embracing  every  thing  in  that  line 
required  by  the  most  fastidious.  His  assortment  of  shawls,  travelling- 
bags,  neglige  shirts,  scarfs,  ties,  etc.,  is  especially  complete. 

Berrian's  house-furnishing  store,  on  Broadway,  is  an  excellent  place  to 
purchase  goods. 

Semmons,  at  G69^  Broadway,  under  the  Southern  Hotel,  has  the  best 
assortment  of  field,  marine,  and  opera  glasses  to  be  found  in  New  York. 

To  the  citizens  of  New  York,  not  less  than  to  those  visiting  it  during 
the  spring  and  early  summer  months,  mineral  waters  and  baths  have  be- 
come a  necessity.  Dr.  Hanbury  Smith's  famous  mineral-water  establish- 
ment, "  The  Spa,"  is  pleasantly  and  centrally  located  at  No.  808  Broadway, 
near  its  intersection  with  Eleventh  Street.  Its  health-giving  waters,  agree- 
able shade,  and  proximity  to  other  objects  of  interest,  combine  to  make  it 
one  of  the  pleasantest  lounging-places  of  the  metropolis.  Baths  are  to  be 
had  at  the  Hygienic  Institute  and  Bathing  Establishment,  No.  15  Laight 
Street.  It  is  a  well-arranged  and  well-conducted  establishment.  Messrs. 
Miller,  Wood  &  Co.,  proprietors. 

INSURANCE. 
Having  laid  in  your  necessary  supplies,  it  only  remains  for  you  to  insure 
yourself  against  accidents  by  sea  or  land,  and  the  editor  of  the  "  Hand- 


Xiv  IXTRODUCTIOX. 

Book  "  "having  had  recent  experience  in  that  line,  would  advise  you  not  to 
omit  to  insure.  The  Travellers'  Insurance  Company  of  Hartford,  which 
embraces  several  of  the  most  reliable  companies  in  the  United  States, 
has  its  New  York  office  at  No.  207  Broadway.  Policies  are  issued  good  for 
one  year,  one  month,  or  one  day.  IMr.  Rodney  Dennis  is  the  secretary  and 
Mr.  R.  M.  Johnson  the  general  agent  of  the  company. 

STEAMSHIP  LINES; 

The  several  lines  of  passenger  steamships  running  between  New  York, 
Baltimore,  Savannah,  Charleston,  New  Orleans,  and  San  Francisco,  afford, 
except  during  inclement  weather,  the  most  pleasant  means  of  reaching  the 
Southern  and  Pacific  States.  The  leading  and  best-conducted  lines  of 
steamers  now  in  oj)eration  from  New  York  to  our  domestic  j)orts  are  the 
following : 

For  NorfoVc^  City  Pointy  and  Iliclimond. — The  steamers  of  the  Old  Line 
(New  York  and  Virginia  Company)  sail  every  "Wednesday  and  Satui'day  at 
3  P.  M.  for  Norfolk  and  all  jDoiuts  on  the  James  River.  The  boats  are  com- 
modious and  well-officered.  G.  Heineken  &  Palmore,  115  Broadway, 
agents.  The  boats  of  the  Old  Dominion  Steamship  Company  leave  same 
days  at  noon.     N.  L.  McCrady,  187  Greenwich  Street,  agent. 

From  Baltimore^  the  steamers  Geo.  Leary  and  Louisiana  offer  every  in- 
ducement to  travellers. 

For  Gliarleston. — The  Messrs  Leary  dispatch  one  of  their  fine  steamers 
from  Pier  No.  14,  E.  R.,  every  Saturday  at  3  o'clock.  The  Granada  and 
Saragossa  have  first-class  accommodations  for  cabin  jDassengers. 

For  SavannaJi.  — Messrs.  Garrison  &  Allen,  5  Bowling  Green,  and 
Livingston,  Fox  &  Co.,  disj^atch  regular  steamers  weekly  for  Savannah, 
where  immediate  connection  is  made  with  the  boats  leaWng  that  jDort  for 
St.  Augustine,  Pilatka,  and  other  jDoints  in  Florida.  The  favorite  side- 
wheel  steamships  "  San  Jacinto  "  and  "  San  Salvador  "  belong  to  the  for- 
mer, and  the  "Hermann  Li\dngston"  and  "  General  Barnes"  to  the  latter 
line.  Invalids  bound  for  the  Florida  water-cures  have  ample  choice  be- 
tween the  boats  comprising  either  of  these  fine  lines. 

For  JVew  Orleans. — Cromwell's  line  of  first-class  steamships,  one  of  which 
leaves  Pier  No.  9,  N.  R.,  every  Saturday  at  3  p.  m.,  has  the  confidence  of 
the  public.  The  Coastwise  Company  also  dispatch  a  steamer  every 
Wednesday  from  Pier  No.  29,  foot  of  Warren  Street.  Mr.  D.  N.  Carring- 
ton,  at  177  West  Street,  is  the  agent.  The  steamers  of  the  Atlantic  Coast 
Mail  Steamship  Company  sail  for  New  Orleans,  semi-monthly,  on  the  1st 
and  15th  of  each  month. 

For  California. — The  best  line  for  San  Francisco  and  all  points  on  the 
South  Pacific  and  Central  American  coast  is  unquestionably  that  of  the 
Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company.     It  is   a  through  line,  connecting  at 


INTRODUCTION. 


XV 


PaDama  -witli  the  company's  line  of  steamers  on  the  Pacific.  Three  depart- 
ures each  month,  viz.,  on  the  1st,  11th,  and  21st.  The  boats  of  this  line 
are  ai^pointed,  equipped,  and  oflicercd  equal,  and  as  regards  many  impor- 
tant details  superior,  to  the  best  European  steamships.  The  passage  to 
San  Francisco  is  made  by  the  steamers  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Company  in 
twenty-two  days.  The  general  office  of  the  line  is  over  the  new  banking- 
house  of  Messrs.  Brown  Brothers,  59  &  Gl  Wall  Street.  Shipping  and  ticket 
oflice,  Pier  No.  42,  foot  of  Canal  Street. 

OBLIGATIONS. 

Our  obligations  are  due  to  the  entire  United  States  and  Canadian  Press 
for  their  unceasing  endeavors  to  keep  us  informed  of  the  rapid  changes 
transpiring  in  their  respective  localities,  as  well  as  for  their  numerous  con- 
tributions to  local  and  state  history,  descriptive  sketches,  etc.,  etc.  Below 
will  be  found  a  list  of  authorities  referred  to  in  the  work. 

We  are  specially  indebted  to  Mr.  C.  E.  Watkins,*  and  Messrs.  Lawrence 
and  Houseworth,  of  San  Francisco,  for  their  fine  pictures  of  scenery  in  Cali- 
fornia and  on  the  Pacific  coast;  to  ]\Ir.  Edward  Yischer,  of  San  Francisco, 
for  his  fine  collection  of  drawings  in  the  same  region  ;  to  Messrs  Savage 
and  Ottinger,  of  Great  Salt  Lake  City ;  to  Mr,  Eugene  Pififet,  of  New  Or- 
leans; Mr.  Sancier,  of  Mobile;  Mr.  Linn,  of  Chattanooga,  and  other  photo- 
graphic artists  throughout  the  Union  who  have  kindly  furnished  us  with 
views  of  prominent  objects  of  interest  in  their  several  localities.  We  re- 
gret that  lack  of  time  and  space  compel  us  to  exclude  their  contributions 
from  our  pages.  It  is  decided  to  make  future  issues  of  the  Hand-book 
uniform  in  style  and  appearance  with  the  present  work. 

For  much  valuable  information  contained  in  the  following  pages  we 
are  indebted  to  the  recently-published  Directories  of  New  York,  Philadel- 
phia, Boston,  New  Orleans,  Baltimore,  Mobile,  Cincinnati,  Memphis,  Chi- 
cago, St.  Louis,  San  Francisco,  Albany,  Milwaukee,  Richmond,  Va.,  St. 
Paul,  Virginia  City,  Nevada,  Portland,  Oregon,  and  Austin,  Nevada. 

We  are  also  under  obligations  to  Mr.  A.  Gensoul,  of  San  Francisco,  for 
a  set  of  his  recently  published  maps. 

Thankful  to  one  and  all  for  their  valuable  assistance,  we  shall  endeavor 
to  merit  a  continuance  of  their  favors. 

AUTHORITIES  REFERRED  TO  IN  THE  WORK. 

Arizona  and  Sonora,  by  Sylvester  Mo  wry. 

Speeches  and  Letters  of  Governor  Richard  C,  McCormick. 
North  Carolina,  Historical  Sketches  of,  by  John  H.  Wheeler. 
California  Guide,  etc.,  by  J.  M.  Hatchings. 

*  Views  of  the  Yo-Semite  Valley  by  this  clever  artist  can  be  obtained  in  New  York  of  the 
editor. 


Xvi  INTRODUCTION. 

Second  Ascent  of  Mount  Shasta. — J.  McKee. 

Maple  Leaves- Legends,  Uistorical  and  Critical  Papers  on  Canada,  by  J.  M.  Le  Moine, 

Quebec. 
The  Canadian  Hand-Book,  by  J.  Taylor. 
A  Run  through  Canada,  by  E.  Hepple  Hall. 
Colorado.     Letters  on,  to  the  Nev)  York  IVibune,  by  A.  D.  Richardson. 

Sketches,  by  Bayard  Taylor. 

Denver,  History  of. — D.  0.  Wilhelm. 
Guide  to  the  Connecticut  Valley. — H.  M.  Bent. 
The  Great  West,  Guide  and  Iland-book  to. 
The  Mammoth  Cave,  Guide  to.— C.  W.  Wright. 
Statistical  Gazetteer  of  Maryland. 
Boston,  Guide  to  City  and  Suburbs. — R.  L.  Midgley. 
Missouri,  Hand-book  to. — ^N.  H.  Parker. 
Saint  Louis,  Narrative  of  Settlement. — A.  Chouteau. 
Minnesota,  Prize  Essays  by  Messrs.  M.  J.  Colbum  and  W.  R.  Smith, 
New  York,  Sanitary  Condition  of. — Citizens'  Association. 

Manual  of  Common  Council. — D.  T.  Valentine. 

Guide  to  Central  Park. — T.  Addison  Richards. 

Albany,  Random  Recollections  of. — G.  A.  Worth. 

Hudson  River,  Guide  to. — T.  Addison  Richards. 

The  Catskills,  Scenery  of. 

Forest  Acadia. — T.  0.  H.  P.  Burnham. 
Eastman's  White  Mountain  Guide. 
Pacific  Coast  Directory,  1865-66. — H.  G.  Langley. 
Pennsylvania,  Valley  of  Wyoming. 

The  Oil  Region  of,  by  H.  H.  Simmons. 
Philadelphia,  Strangers'  Guide. — Lindsay  and  Blakiston. 
As  It  Is,  by  R.  A.  Smith. 
Laurel  Hill  Cemetery,  Guide  to. — ^R.  A.  Smith. 
Newport,  Rhode  Island,  Illustrated. — George  C.  Mason. 
Geological  Rcconnoissance  of  Tennessee. — Jas.  M.  Safford. 
Salt  Lake,  Exploration  and  Survey  of. — Captain  H.  Stansbury, 
The  City  of  the  Saints,  by  Richard  F.  Burton. 
The  National  Almanac,  1865. 

Military  and  Naval  History  of  the  RebeUion. — W.  J.  Tenney. 
Field-Book  of  the  Revolution,  \ 

Pictorial  History  of  the  Civil  War,  >•  by  B.  J.  Lossing. 
Biography  of  Eminent  Americans,    ) 
Panama  Railroad  Guide,  by  Dr.  F.  N.  Otis. 
Pucific  and  Territorial  Guide. — S.  M.  Iloldridge. 

Wc  regret  that  the  Pacific  Coast  Directory  (18G7),  just  published  oy  Mr. 
Ilenry  G.  Langley,  and  a  valuable  historical  work  on  tlie  discovery  of  gold 
in  California,  by  Mr.  Edward  E.  Dunbar,  President  of  the  Travellers'  Club, 
N.  Y.,  did  uot  reach  us  in  time  for  our  chai^ter  on  that  regiou. 


APPLETOE"S' 

HMD-BOOK  OF  AMERICAN  TRAYEI. 


-♦»- 


THE  UOTTED  STATES. 

The  territory  of  the  United  States,  tbrouG;!!  whicli  we  propose  to  travel 
in  our  present  volume,  occupies  an  area  of  2,936,166  square  miles,  little  les3 
than  that  of  the  entire  continent  of  Europe.  In  form  it  is  nearly  a  paral- 
lelogram, with  an  average  length  of  2,400  miles  from  east  to  west,  and  a 
mean  breadth  from  north  to  south  of  1,300  miles.  It  lies  between  24° 
20',  and  49°  north  latitude,  and  between  60°  50'  and  124°  30'  west  longi- 
tude. 

Extent. — Its  extreme  length  and  breadth  are,  respectively,  2,700  and 
1,600  miles,  reaching  from  the  Atlantic  on  the  east  to  the  Pacific  on  the  west, 
and  from  British  America  on  the  north  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  the 
Mexican  Republic  oq  the  south.  The  entire  frontier  line  slightly  exceeds 
10,000  miles  in  length. 

Divisions. — Its  present  division  is  into  thirty-six  States  and  nine  Terri- 
tories, independent  of  the  District  of  Columbia.  The  States  have  been  popu- 
larly grouped  according  to  their  geographical  position  into  the  following 
divisions  or  sections,  viz. :  The  Eastern  or  ISTew  England  group,  embracing 
Maine,  New  Hampshire,  Vermont,  Massachusetts,  Ehode  Island,  and  Con- 
necticut ;  the  Middle  group,  New  York,  JSTew  Jersey,  Pennsylvania,  Dela- 
ware, and  Maryland  ;  the  Southern  States :  Virginia,  North  Carolina,  South 
Carolina,  Georgia,  Florida,  Alabama,  Mississippi,  Louisiana,  Texas,  and 
Arkansas ;  and  the  Western  States,  comprising  Tennessee,  Kentucky,  Ohio, 
Indiana,  Illinois,  Michigan,  Iowa,  Wisconsin,  Missouri,  California,  Oregon, 
Minnesota,  Kansas,  and  Nebraska. 

All  the  Territories,   viz.,    Utah,    Colorado,  Idaho,   Montana,  Dakotah, 
Arizona,  Washington,  New  Mexico,  and  Indian  Territory,  are  included  in 
1  1 


THE  UNITED   STATES. 


this  division  of  the  country.  The  District  of  Columbia  is  a  small  territory 
set  apart  as  the  seat  of  the  National  Government.  The  following  table 
shows  the  census  of  the  respective  States  and  divisions  by  the  last  United 
States  census  (18G0) : 

The  District  of  Columbia  (D.  C.)   T5,0T6 

THE  EASTERN,  OR  NEW  ENGLAND  STATES. 


Gmnecticut  (Conn.) 460,151 

Ehode  Island  (R.  I.) 174,021 

Massachusetts  (Mass.) 1,231,065 


New  Hampshire  (N.  H.) . . .     826,072 

Vermont  (Vt.) 315,116 

Maine  (Me.) 628,276 


Total 8,135,301 

THE  MIDDLE  STATES. 


New  York  (N.  Y.) 8,887,542 

New  Jersey  (N.  J.) 672,031 

Pennsylvania  (Pa.) 2,906,370 


Delaware  (Del.) 112,218 

Maryland  (Md.) 487,034 


Total 8,265,190 

THE  SOUTHERN  STATES. 


Virorinia  (Va.) 1,596,083 

North  Carolina  (N.  C). . .     902,667 
South  Carolhia  (S.  C.) . . . .     708,812 

Georgia  (Ga.) 1,057,327 

Florida  (Fla.) 140,439 


Alabama  (Ala.) 964,296 

Louisiana  (La.) 709,433 

Texas  (Tex.) 601,030 

Mississippi  (Miss.) 791,895 

Arkansas  (x\rk.) 435,427 


Total 7,991,900 

THE  WESTERN  STATES. 


Tennessee  (Tenn.) 1,109,847 

Kentucky  (Ky.) 1,155,713 

01iio(0.) 2,339,509 

Indiana  (la.) 1,350,479 

Miimesota  (Minn.) 172,022 

Illinois  (111.) 1,711,758 

Michigan  (Mich.) 749,112 

Wisconsin  (Wis.) 775,878 

Total 


Iowa(Io.^ 674,948 

Missouri  (Mo.) 1,188,817 

Oregon  (Or.) 52,464 

California  (Cal.) 880,015 

Kansas  (Kan.) 107,110 

Nebraska  (Neb.) 28,842 

Nevada 6,857 


11,797,951 


TERRITORIES. 


New  Mexico 

Washington 

Utah 

Colorado 

Montana  (1865),  estimated 
Total 


98,541 
11,578 
40,295 
81,197 
25,000 


Dakotah 

Idaho  (1865),  estimated. . . . 
Arizona  (1865),  estimated. . . 
Indian  Ter.  (1865),  csthnated 


4,839 
25,000 
15,000 

4,000 

258,450 


Grand  total, 
2 


31,518,882 


TUE   UNITED   STATES. 

Of  the  free  population  in  18G0,  23,353,386  were  born  in  the  United 
States,  and  4,180,175  in  foreign  countries.  In  addition  to  the  above,  it  is 
estimated  that  nearly  half  a  million  of  Indians  or  aborigines  exist  within 
the  present  territory  of  the  United  States.  The  number  of  these  is,  how- 
ever, rapidly  diminishing. 

The  population  of  the  country  is  largely  and  steadily  augmented  by 
emigration.  From  1847  to  1860,  2,598,214  emigrants  arrived,  and  since  the 
close  of  the  late  war  the  number  of  arrivals  has  averaged  tAvo  hundred  and 
fifty  thousand  a  year.  They  come  mainly  from  Germany  and  the  British 
isles. 

GoYEENMENT. — The  government  of  the  United  States  is  a  confederation 
of  the  several  States  delegating  a  portion  of  their  power  to  a  central  govern- 
ment, whose  laws  are  always  paramount  to  State  authority.  The  governing 
power  is  divided  into  legislative,  judicial,  and  executive.  The  Executive 
power  is  vested  in  a  President  and  Vice-President,  elected  by  the  people, 
who  hold  their  term  of  office  for  four  years.  The  legislative  power  is  ex- 
ercised by  a  Congress  composed  of  two  branches,  a  Senate  and  House  of 
Eepresentatives ;  the  former  representing  the  several  Stales  in  their  sover- 
eign capacity,  and  the  House  of  Eepresentatives  the  people.  The  members 
of  the  National  Legislature  are  respectively  known  as  Senators,  members  of 
Congress,  and  delegates  or  Territorial  members.  The  Congress  is  held 
annually  at  Washington.  The  judiciary  consists  of  a  supreme  court,  nine 
circuit,  and  forty-seven  district-courts.  The  supreme  court  is  presided 
over  by  a  chief  and  eight  associate  justices,  who  hold  their  appointmenta 
during  life  or  good  behavior. 

HisTOET,  Etc. — The  earliest  settlements  within  the  present  territory  of 
the  United  States  were  made  in  Florida,  about  1565 ;  but  as  this  State  was 
not  acquired  till  1819,  it  is  usual  to  date  the  commencement  of  the  settle- 
ment of  the  colonies  which  formed  the  foundation  of  the  present  Union, 
from  the  settlement  of  Jamestown,  Virginia,  in  1607.  New  York  was  set- 
tled by  the  Dutch,  in  1614;  Massachusetts,  at  Plymouth,  in  1620;  and  New 
Hampshire  and  Maine  in  1623.  Washington,  D.  C,  is  the  capital  of  the 
United  States,  and  New  York  its  chief  commercial  city.  Next  to  the  latter 
the  most  important  cities  are  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  Boston,  Brooklyn, 
New  Orleans,  Cincinnati,  St.  Louis,  Chicago,  San  Francisco,  Buffalo,  Pitts- 
burg, Newark,  Louisville,  Albany,  and  Providence. 

The  military  history  of  the  nation  is  properly  divided  into  four  periods  or 
epochs,  known  respectively  as  the  War  of  the  Eevolution,  the  War  of  1812, 
the  War  with  Mexico,  and  the  Eebellion.  The  first  and  most  eventful  of 
these  closed  with  the  surrender  of  Cornwallis  at  Yorktown,  October  19, 
1781.     The  war  of  1812  is  conspicuous  for  the  battles  of  Lundy's  Lane  and 

3 


THE  UNITED  STATES. 

New  Orleans,  the  former  of  AvLieli  was  fought  July  25,  1814,  and  the  latter 
January  8,  1815.  The  war  with  Mexico  commenced  May  8,  1846,  and  vir- 
tually closed  with  the  occupation  of  the  city  of  Mexico  (September  20,  1847) 
by  the  United  States  forces  under  General  Scott.  The  late  Rebellion  com- 
menced with  the  attack  on  Fort  Sumter,  in  the  harbor  of  Charleston,  South 
Carolina  (April  11,  18G1),  and  closed  with  the  occupation  of  Eichmond 
a,nd  the  sm-render  of  Generals  Lee  and  Johnston,  April,  1865. 

The  leading  military  movements  which  have  at  different  times  been 
carried  on  within  the  territory  of  the  United  States  will  be  found  briefly 
recorded  in  the  chapters  descriptive  of  the  localities  in  which  they  occurred, 
as  win  also  the  leading  subjects  of  interest  throughout  the  country. 


Xevv  York  ] 


NEW  YORK. 


[New  York. 


KEW    TOEK. 


The  first  State  in  the  Union  in  popula- 
tion, in  wealth,  and  in  commercial  import- 
ance, exceeded  by  none  in  the  fertility  of 
its  soil  and  the  healthfuluess  of  its  cli- 
mate, unsui'passed  in  the  variety  and 
beauty  of  its  natural  scenery,  and  in  its 
historical  associations.  New  York  is  ap- 
propriately called  the  Empire  State. 

Its  length  from  east  to  west  is  335 
miles,  and  its  breadth  about  300  miles, 
embracing  an  area  of  about  30,000,000 
acres.  ^ 

The  earliest  settlements  within  the 
State  were  made  by  the  Dutch,  at  Fort 
Orange  (Albany),  and  at  New  Amster- 
dam, now  New  York  City.  This  was  in 
1614,  five  years  after  the  voyage  of 
Hendrick  Hudson  up  the  waters  of  that 
river  which  now  bears  his  name. 

In  1664  the  colony  fell  into  the  posses- 
sion of  the  English,  was  recaptured  by 
the  Dutch  in  1673,  and  finally  came  again 
under  British  rule  in  16*74,  and  so  con- 
tinued until  the  period  of  the  Revolution. 
Many  stirring  events  transpired  v>'ithin 
this  territory  during  the  wars  between 
France  and  England,  in  1690,  1702,  and 
1744,  and  through  all  the  years  of  the 
War  of  Independence.  These  events  the 
traveller  will  find  duly  chronicled  as  he 
reaches  the  various  locations  where  they 
transpired,  in  the  course  of  our  proposed 
travels. 

Every  vai  lety  of  surface  and  every  char- 
acter of  physical  aspect  are  found  within 
the  great  area  of  New  York  ;  vast  fer- 
tile plains  and  grand  mountain  ranges, 
meadows  of  richest  verdure,  and  wild 
forest  tracts,  lakes  innumerable  and  of 
infinite  variety  in  size  and  beauty,  water- 
falls unequalled  on  the  continent  for  ex- 
tent and  grandeur,  and  rivers  matchless 
in  picturesque  charms.  We  need  not 
now  recount  these  wonders,  as  our  rambles 


will  afford  us,  by  and  by,  abundant  op- 
portunity to  see  them  all  in  turn  and 
time — the  peaks  and  gorges  of  the  Adi- 
rondacks  and  the  Catskills,  the  floods 
of  Niagara,  and  the  ravines  of  Trenton, 
the  pure  placid  waters  of  Lake  George, 
the  mountain  shores  of  Champlain,  the 
deer-filled  wildernesses  and  the  highland 
passes  of  the  Hudson,  and  all  the  intri- 
cate reticulation  of  cities,  towns,  villages, 
villas,  and  watering-places. 

The  principal  cities  of  the  State  are 
the  metropolis,  New  York,  Brooklyn,  Buf- 
falo, Albany,  Troy,  Rochester,  Syracuse, 
Osv/ego,  Hudson,  etc. 

Though  originally  settled  by  the  Dutch, 
and  in  the  social  features  of  many  por- 
tions of  its  extended  territory  still  par- 
taking largely  of  the  characteristic  traits 
of  that  people,  the  constant  and  increas- 
ing inffusion  of  New  England  and  of 
foreign  population  has  contributed  to 
give  to  New  York  a  more  thoroughly 
cosmopolitan  character  than  is  enjoyed 
by  any  other  State  or  people  of  the 
Union. 

The  internal  improvements  of  the  State 
are  vast  and  important.  Among  the  most 
prominent  public  works  are  the  Erie 
Canal,  364  miles  long,  completed  in  1825, 
at  a  cost  of  $7,000,000.  This  work,  with 
its  numerous  branches  and  feeders,  em- 
bracing a  system  of  artificial  communica- 
tion of  nearly  1,000  miles,  constitutes  by 
far  the  most  important  line  of  public 
works  on  the  continent.  But  New  York 
has  natural  advantages  greater  far  than 
canal  or  railway  alone  can  bestoAv.  She 
has  365  miles  of  lake  coast,  206  miles  of 
interior  lake,  and  245  miles  of  river  navi- 
gation. The  foreign  imports  of  the  State 
for  1862-'63,  amounted  to  -$196,000,000, 
and  the  exports  for  the  same  year  to 
$247,500,000. 


Railways.] 


XEW   YORK. 


[Xeav  York  City. 


DiTisioxs. — The  State  is  divided  into 
GO  counties,  and  contains  a  population 
of  nearly  4,500,000,  of  whom  upward  of 
one-half  were  born  in  the  State.  Albany, 
pleasantly  situated  at  the  head  of  steam- 
boat navigation  on  the  Hudson  River, 
150  miles  north  of  New  York  City,  is  the 
capital. 

Railtvats. — The  railway  system  of  the 
State  emljraces  nearly  3,000  miles  of  road, 
the  construction  and  equipment  of  which 
cost  upward  of  $133,000,000.  The  fol- 
lowing list  embraces  the  most  important 
and  most  frequently  travelled  lines : 

(See  also  Routes,  Skeleton  tours,  etc.) 

The  Kew  York  and  Erie  liaihoay^ 
4 GO  miles  through  the  State,  from  the 
city  of  New  York  to  Dunkirk,  or  422  to 
Bulfalo  (Branch),  on  Lake  Erie. 

The  Ilndson  River  Railway^  New  York 
City,  144  miles  to  Albany,  or  152  to 
Troy,  along  the  banks  of  the  Hudson 
River. 

The  Ilarlcm  Railway,  from  New  Yorlc, 
154  miles  to  Albany. 

The  N^ew  York  Central  Railway,  from 
Albany,  20S  miles  to  Buffalo ;  or  to  Niag- 
ara Falls,  327  miles, 

Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Raihvoy,  from 
Troy  to  Saratoga  Springs,  32  miles ;  to 
Whitehall,  73  miles. 

Montreal  and  New  York,  and  Platts- 
hurg  and  Montreal  Railways,  62  miles 
from  riattsburg,  on  Lake  Champlain  ;  to 
Montreal,  Canada. 

Ogdensburg  and  Lake  Chamj)lain  Rail- 
way, from  Ogdensburg,  118  miles  to 
Rouse's  Point. 

Blaek  River  and  Utica  Railvmy,  from 
Utica  (New  York  Central  Railway),  35 
miles  to  Boonville. 

Route,  Watertovw,  and  Ogdensburg 
Railway,  from  Rome  (New  York  Central 
Railway),  142  miles  to  Ogdensburg. 

Newburgh  branch  of  New  York  and 
Eric  Railway,  fi-om  Newburgh,  on  the 
Hudson,  to  Chester. 

Oswego  and  Syracuse  Railway,  from 
Syracuse,  (New  York  Central  Railway), 
35  miles  to  Oswego,  Lake  Ontaiio. 

Syracuse,  lilng/unnton,  and  New  York 
Railway,  from  Syracuse,  80  miles  toBing- 
lianiton, 

JJinira,  Canandaigua,  and  Niagara 
Falls  Railway,  from  Elmira  168  miles 
6" 


(Erie  Railway),  to  Suspension  Bridge, 
Niagara. 

Buffalo,  Corning,  and  New  York  Rail- 
icay,  from  Coming  (Erie  Railway),  100 
miles  to  Batavia,  or  94  miles  to  Rochester 
(New  York  Central  Railway). 

Williamsjjort  and  Elm  ira  Railway,  from 
Elmira  (Erie  Railway),  78  miles  south  to 
Williamspoii,  Pa. 

Corning,  Blosshirg,  and  Tioga  Rail- 
way, 41  miles  from  Corning  (Erie  Rail- 
way), to  Blossburg,  Pa. 

Lake  Shore  Railway,  from  Bufifalo,  via 
Dunkirk,  by  the  shore  of  Lake  Erie,  183 
miles,  to  Cleveland,  Ohio,  and  the  "West. 

Hudson  and  Boston  Railvmy,  from  Hud- 
son, on  the  Hudson  River,  eastward  to 
West  Stockbridge,  Mass.,  34  miles,  where 
it  connects  with  the  Housatonic  Railway. 

Western  {Mass.)  Railway,  from  Albany, 
49  miles  to  Pittsfield. 

Nev)  York  and  New  Haven  Railway, 
from  New  York  76  miles  to  New  Haven, 
Conn.,  thence  to  Boston,  etc. 

Long  Lsland  Railway,  99  miles  from 
New  York  (James  Slip  or  34th  Street 
Ferry);  through  the  entire  length  of  Long 
Island,  to  Creenport. 

Statcji  Lsland  Raihoay,  from  Pier  1, 
E.  R.,  11  miles  to  Tottenville. 

For  other  railways  terminating  in  New 
York  City,  see  railways  in  New  Jersey, 
etc. 

NEW  YORK  CITY. 

The  metropolis  of  the  State  of  New 
York,  and  the  chief  city  of  the  United 
States,  is  situated  on  the  Island  of  Man- 
hattan, at  the  junction  of  the  Hudson 
and  East  Rivers,  20  miles  from  the  At- 
lantic Ocean.  The  limits  of  the  City 
are  coextensive  with  those  of  the  county, 
embracing  the  entire  island,  which  is  13^ 
miles  in  length,  and  2|-  miles  at  its 
greatest  breadth.  Including  the  sub- 
urban cities  of  Brooklyn,  Jersey  City, 
and  Ilobokcn,  which  properly  belong  to 
New  York,  it  is  by  far  the  most  popu- 
lous and  important  city  of  the  American 
Continent.  The  Citv  Hall  is  in  latitude 
40^  42'  43"  N.,  and '74^  0'  3"  W.  longi- 
tude. The  most  busy  and  densely  in- 
habited portions  of  the  city  proper  occu- 
py an  area  embracing  nearly  four  square 
miles  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the 


IS/ 


New  York  City.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[New  York  City, 


Island  of  Manhattan,    "With  a  population 
exceeding  1,000,000,  and   increasing  at 
the  rate  of  50  per  cent,  every  10  years, 
New  York  is  already  third  in  size  among 
the  cities  of  Christendom,  and  bids  fair  at 
no  very  distant  day  to  rival  all  except 
London  itself.     It  is  divided  into  twenty- 
two  wards,  and  is  governed  by  a  mayor 
and    common    comicil.     The    mayor   is 
elected  by  popular  vote,  and  holds  oiSce 
two  years.     The  common  council  is  com- 
posed  of   two   boards,   seventeen   alder- 
men, elected  for  a   term  of   two  years, 
constituting   one  board,  and  twenty-five 
councilmen,  chosen  annually,  forming  the 
other. 

The  early  history  of  the  city  of  New 
York  is  involved  in  no  inconsiderable 
degree  of  uncertainty.  The  Norse  or 
Northmen,  as  is  affirmed  by  Scandina- 
vian records,  visited  these  shores,  which 
were  then  known  as  part  of  the  ancient 
Vineland,  as  early  as  1514.  The  gen- 
erally acknowledged  commencement  of 
European  civilization  in  this  part  of  the 
newly  discovered  continent,  however, 
commenced  with  the  arrival,  in  the  Bay 
of  New  York,  of  Ilendrick  Hudson,  an 
Enshshman  in  the  service  of  the  Dutch 
East  India  Company,  who  arrived  at  the 
site  of  the  present  city,  September  3, 
1609.  He  afterwards  sailed  up  the  river 
which  now  bears  his  name  in  a  vessel 
called  the  Half  Moon.  In  1614  an  ex- 
pedition under  Captains  Black  and  Chris- 
tianse,  arrived,  and  commenced  the  set- 
tlement of  the  future  city.  At  the  close 
of  that  year  the  future  metropolis  of  New 
York  consisted  of  a  small  fort,  on  the 
site  of  the  present  Bowling  Green,  and 
four  houses,  and  was  known  as  "Nieuw 
Amsterdam."  As  late  as  1648  it  con- 
tained but  1,000  inhabitants.  In  1664 
it  was  surrendered  to  the  British,  and, 
passing  into  the  hands  of  the  Duke  of 
York,  was  thenceforward  known  as  New 
York.  In  1677  it  contained  oS4  houses. 
In  IVOO  the  population  had  increased  to 
about  6,000.  Eleven  years  subsequent- 
ly, a  market  for  slaves  was  opened  in 
Wall  Street ;  and  in  1725  a  weekly  paper, 
the  JSfeio  York  Gazette,  made  its  first  ap- 
pearance. On  June  28,  I'T'ze,  the  Brit- 
ish army  and  fleet  entered  the  bay  of 
New  York,  and  effected  a  landing  on 
Staten   Island.      Crossing   the  Narrows, 


they   encounter'.  1  the   American    forces 
near  Brooklyn  (August  22d),  and  fought 
the   battle   of  Long   Island.     For  eight 
years  succeeding  this  battle,  New  York 
remained  the  headquarters  of  the  British 
troops,    during  which  time  many  l>uild- 
ings  were  either  destroyed  or  despoiled. 
The   British  forces   evacuated   the    city 
November   25,    1783,    which    has   since 
been  known  as  Evacuation  Day,  and  is 
annually  celebrated.     Within  ten  years 
after  the   War    of    Independence,   New 
York  had   doubled   its  population.      In 
1807  the  first  steamboat  to  navigate  the 
Hudson  was   built.     The  completion  of 
the  great  Erie  Canal  followed  in  1825, 
and  the  Croton  Aqueduct  in  1842,  since 
which  time  the  progress  of  the  city,  in 
spite  of  fire  and  pestilence   which  has 
often  visited  it,  has  been  rapid  and  per- 
manent.     The    city   contains    18    main 
streets  or  avenues,  and  upward  of  1,000 
streets,   courts,  and   lanes.      Broadway, 
the   Bowery,  and   Canal   Street,  are   its 
leading     thoroughfares.      The    first    of 
these,  for  the  costly  magnificence  of  its 
buildings,  and  the  varied  display  of  mer- 
chandise, is  perhaps  without  an  equal  in 
the  world.    The  leading  hotels,  theatres, 
and  retail  stores,  are  located  in  Broad- 
way.    Fifth  Avenue,  the  favorite  resort 
of  fashion,  runs  parallel  with  Broadway, 
a  little  west  of  that  street.     It  is  upward 
of  three  miles  in  length,  and  contains  some 
of  the   finest   private   residences   to  be 
found    in    the   city.      Madison  Avenue, 
Fourteenth  and  Tv/enty-third  Streets,  and 
many  of  the  squares,  also  have  fine  pri- 
vate residences.     For  a  more  extended 
description  of  these  fine  streets  the  reader 
is   referred   to  Walks,    Promenades,  et- 
cetera. 

Hotels,  etc. — The  first  consideration 
of  the  stranger  or  traveller,  arriving  in 
New  York,  is  to  procure  comfortable 
quarters.  In  this  matter  he  will  have  all 
needed  facility.  No  city  in  the  world 
surpasses  New  York,  either  in  the  splen- 
dor or  extent  of  its  hotel  accommodation, 
while  in  the  number  and  excellence  of  its 
lodging  and  boarding  houses,  and  res- 
taurants, it  is  far  in  advance  of  any  other 
city  on  the  American  continent.  As  the 
Hand-book  is  designed  for  popular  use, 
the  editor  will  endeavor  to  meet  the 
tastes  and  wishes  of  all,  by  treatmg  of 

7 


New  York  City.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[New  York  City. 


each  of  these  descriptions  of  accommo- 
dation 1)riefly,  inidcr  separate  heads. 

Of  hotels,  there  are  upward  of  140  in 
the  city  proper.  The  Fifth  Avenue  Ho- 
tel is  unsurpassed  for  the  extent  of  its  ac- 
commodation, and  the  excellence  and  good 
taste  with  which  it  is  furnished.  It  has 
many  conveniences  and  advantages  over 
other  strictly  first-class  hotels.  Its  loca- 
tion, at  the  intersection  of  Fifth  Avenue 
and  Broadvray,  facing  Madison  Square,  is 
one  of  the  best  the  city  affords,  com- 
manding easy  access  by  means  of  numer- 
ous lines  of  street  railways,  with  the 
down-town  business  quarters,  and  a 
pleasant  strolling-ground  or  ramble  for 
ladies  and  children.  It  is  built  of  marble, 
and  is  ?ix  stories  high.  This  otherwise 
objectionable  feature  is  made  subservient 
to  a  mechanical  contrivance,  known  as  a 
vertical  railway,  by  means  of  which 
guests  can  re.ich  their  rooms  or  any  part 
of  the  house  with  ease  and  despatch.  It 
has  accommodation  for  1,100  guests. 
Darling,  Grisv/old  and  Co.,  are  the  pro- 
prietors. The  Hoffman  House,  at  the  cor- 
ner of  Fifth  Avenue  and  Twenty-fifth 
Street,  also  directly  facing  Madison 
Square,  and  immediately  north  of  the 
Fiftli  Avenue,  is  an  admirably  conducted 
house.  It  is  conducted  on  the  European 
plan,  and  has  a  well-ordered  restaurant 
attached.  The  rooms  are  commodious 
and  newly  furnished,  and  the  cuisine  ex- 
cellent. It  is  under  the  manairement  of 
Messrs.  ]\iitchell  &  Read.  The  New 
York  Hotel,  on  Broadway,  at  its  intersec- 
tion with  Waverley  Place,  is  a  well-kept 
house,  much  patronized  by  Southern  and 
Cuban  travellers.  II.  Cranston,  propri- 
etor. The  Soufhcrn  Hotel  (late  Lafarge) 
is  on  the  same  side  of  Broadway,  opposite 
Bond  Street.  The  Astor,  opposite  the  City 
Hall,  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  popu- 
lar houses  in  New  Y^ork.  It  is  under  the 
able  management  of  the  Messrs.  Stetson. 
It  is  construeted  wholly  of  Quincy  gran- 
ite, and  contains  820  chambers.  Its  noble 
facade  of  over  200  feet  on  Broadway, 
renders  it  one  of  the  most  prominent  dh- 
jcets  in  that  (juarter  of  the  city.  The 
Metropolitan  and  the  /SV.  Nicholas,  on 
Broadway,  above  Canal  Street,  are  both 
excellent  houses.  In  the  busy  trade 
season,  merchants  from  the  interior 
States,  and  indeed  from  all  parts  of  the 
8 


world,  are  to  be  found  here,  the  register 
of  either  house  frequently  showing  as 
many  as  three  hundred  arrivals  a  day. 
Tlie  Everett  House,  facing  Union  Square, 
has  one  of  the  most  delightful  locations 
in  the  city ;  it  is  especially  a  desirable  house 
for  families :  the  cuisine  and  attendance 
are  such  as  to  recommend  it  to  those 
capable  of  appreciating  the  comforts  of 
home  life.  The  Brevoort  House,  in  Fifth 
Avenue,  corner  of  Eighth  Street  (Clinton 
Place),  and  the  Clarendon,  in  Fourth  Av- 
enue, at  the  corner  of  Seventeenth  Street, 
are  both  good  houses,  and  are  much 
frequented  by  English  travellers.  The  St. 
Denis,  corner  of  Broadway  and  Eleventh 
Street,  and  the  St.  Germain,  on  Twenty- 
second  Street,  at  the  intersection  of 
Broadway  and  Fifth  Avenue,  are  both 
desirable  houses,  with  good  restaurants 
attached.  The  Gramercy  Park  House 
has  a  retired  and  beautiful  location  in 
one  of  the  most  pleasant  neighborhoods 
for  a  family  hotel,  between  Twentieth 
and  Twenty-first  Streets.  The  Albemarle 
is  a  quiet  and  well-conducted  house,  in 
Twenty-fourth  Street,  in  the  immediate 
neighborhood  of  Madison  Square,  the 
Fifth  Avenue,  and  all  the  leading  up- 
town hotels. 

Restaurants. — The  restaurants  of  New 
York  rank  next  to  the  hotels  in  import- 
ance, and  are  much  more  numerous.  For 
gentlemen  travelling  alone  these  establish- 
ments offer  many  inducements,  not  least 
among  which  are  the  greater  attention 
extended  to  them  by  their  keepers. 
Nothing  is  more  common  than  for  New 
Y'orkers,  including  ladies  and  pe:»sons  of 
distinction,  to  dine  or  sup  at  a  restaurant. 
Restaurants  are  of  two  kinds :  the  first 
and  most  popular,  where  meals  are  served 
d  ki  carte  ;  the  other  at  a  fixed  sum  per 
meal.  Dehnonico^s,  in  Fifth  Avenue,  oc- 
cupying the  entire  square  between  Four- 
teenth and  Fifteenth  Streets,  is  the  largest 
establishment  of  the  kind  in  this  or  per- 
haps any  other  city  •,  another  establish- 
ment, on  the  coiner  of  Broadway  and 
Chambers  Street,  kept  by  the  same  firm, 
serves  excellent  dinners.  The  Maison 
J)oree,  facing  Union  Square,  in  Fourteenth 
Street,  west  of  Broadway,  is  famous  for 
its  suppers.  The  wines  served  at  these 
houses  may  be  relied  on.  Sallcs  de 
Socicie,  or  private  rooms,  furnished.  Tat/- 


New  York  Cirr.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[New  York  City. 


Io7'''s  (International),  at  oG5  Broadway, 
corner  Franklin  Street,  wliicli  was  opened 
in  1853,  and  continued  the  most  famous 
resort  of  the  kind  up  to  the  rebellion,  has 
lately  been  closed  as  a  restaurant.  Mail- 
lanrs,  621  Broadway,  north  of  Houston, 
is  an  excellent  restaurant  and  confection- 
ery, much  frequented  by  ladies,  as  is  also 
Ilendes.  The  ice  cream  and  other  summer 
delicacies  served  at  Maillard'shaveno  su- 
perior in  the  city.  Among  the  down-town 
restaurants  Delmonico' s  and  Berri/\s,  in 
Broad  Street,  are  the  most  largely  patron- 
ized. They  are  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
borhood of  the  Stock  Exciiange  and  Wall 
Street.  Dinincr-rooms  and  lunch-counters 
are  attached  to  each.  /Sutherland's,  on 
Cedar  Street,  between  Broadway  and  Nas- 
sau, is  also  an  excellent  lunch-house. 
Cafes. — These  are  few,  and  comparatively 
speaking  poorly  patronized  by  Americans. 
The  French  and  Spanish  population  go  to 
a  cafe  to  take  a  demiiasse  of  coffee  and 
a  jyelit  verve  de  liqueur,  instead  of  sitting 
over  their  wine  at  a  hotel  or  restaurant. 
The  Cafe  du  Commerce,  in  Broadway, 
north  of  Canal  St.,  is  among  the  best  of 
its  class. 

Lodging  and  Boarding  Houses. — 
These  abound  in  every  quarter  of  the  city, 
and  embrace  every  kind  and  quality  of 
accommodation,  from  the  luxuriously  fur- 
nished parlor  suite  on  Murray  Hill  or 
Madison  Square,  to  the  third  floor  back 
room  or  hall  chamber  in  the  down-town 
quarter.  Boarding-house  faro  and  ac- 
commodation are  poor  at  the  best ;  and 
strangers  visiting  New  York  have  gen- 
erally learned  to  avoid  them.  Furnished 
apartments  in  private  houses  (maisons 
rneicblees),  from  a  complete  range  or  suite 
adapted  for  housekeeping,  to  a  single 
chamber,  can  be  had  in  almost  every  lo- 
cality in  New  York,  at  prices  ranging 
from  $20  to  $100  per  month.  It  is  not 
however,  customary,  nor  is  it  advantage- 
ous, to  take  apartments  for  a  stay  of  a 
few  days.  Lodgings  may  be  hired  by  the 
night,  week,  or  month.  Except  for  the 
latter  period,  which  may  be  made  a  mat- 
ter of  special  agreement,  payment  is  al- 
ways expected  in  advance.  The  Daily 
"Herald"  furnishes  the  most  complete  list 
of  "  rooms,  etc.,  to  let."  A  distinguishing 
social  feature  of  New  York,  among  other 
cities  of  America,  is  its  clubs. 


Clttrs. — These  answer  to  the  ccrclen  of 
Paris,  and  are  twenty  in  number.  The 
best  are  the  Union,  on  Fifth  Avenue,  cor- 
ner Twenty-first  Street ;  the  Nev)  York, 
No.  1  East  Fifleenth  Street;  Manhaltan, 
U6  Fifth  Avenue  ;  the  Cenlnri/,  42  East 
Fifteentli  Street ;  the  AtJiencenm,  23 
Union  Place  ;  the  American  Jockey  Club; 
the  Travellers',  222  Fifth  Avenue  ;  the 
Cdf/,  31  Union  Place  ;  and  the  Union 
League,  26  East  Seventeenth  Street.  The 
Union  Club  House  is  the  finest  structure 
of  its  kind  in  the  city.  It  is  of  brown- 
stone,  and  cost  $300,000  to  build.  There 
are  also  several  yacht,  chess,  cricket,  and 
skating  clubs  and  club-houses.  The 
grounds  and  house  of  the  St.  George's 
Cricket  Club  are  at  Hoboken,  near  the 
Elysian  Fields. 

The  Saloons  of  New  York  form  a  dis- 
tinctive feature  of  metropolitan  life ; 
many  of  these  establishments,  in  their  ex- 
tent and  the  brilliancy  of  their  interior 
fittings,  being  scarcely  excelled  by  the 
famous  cafis  of  the  French  metropolis. 
The  most  admired  and  frequented  are 
those  of  the  MetropoWan,  St.  NicJwlas, 
and  Ffth  Avernce  Hotels,  and  the  Rotun- 
da of  the  Astor  Hou.se.  The  bars  of  the 
three  first-named  afford  fine  specimens  of 
a  kind  of  adornment  much  in  vogue  in 
the  metropolis.  The  Oyster  Saloons  are 
numerous,  and  generally  well  conducted. 
The  daily  consumption  of  oysters  in  New 
York  ha^  been  valued  at  $25,000.  Up- 
ward of  1,500  boats  are  constantly  engaged 
in  the  trade.  Willard's  and  the  Oyster 
Bay,  on. Broadway,  are  famous  resorts  for 
the  lovers  of  this  delicious  dish. 

Terms,  Prices,  &c. — Charges  at  the 
leading  hotels  are  |5  per  day,  which  in- 
cludes every  thing  except  wine  and  extra 
attendance.  At  many  of  the  smaller 
houses,  moderate-sized  rooms  and  board 
can  be  had  at  prices  ranging  from  $3  to 
$4  per  day,  but  they  are  not  always  de- 
sii-able  on  that  account.  As  a  general 
rule,  the  stranger  would  do  well  to  patron- 
ize only  those  hotels  mentioned  in  this 
guide.  The  prices  of  furnished  apart- 
ments in  choice  localities  range  from  $8 
to  $15  per  week.  When  board  is  in- 
cluded, $6  to  $10  per  week  more  is 
charged.  Prices  at  restaurants  are  wholly 
regulated  by  bill  of  fare,  except  "  ordi- 
naries" are  served,  in  which  case  75  cents 

9 


New  York  City.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[New  York  Citt. 


to$l  for  dinner  will  be  found  the  average 
charji;e.  AVe  would  caution  the  stranger 
in  New  York  against  too  great  haste  in 
selecting  rooms  or  board.  Be  not  de- 
ceived by  appearances.  "While  there  is 
no  lack  of  respectable  boarding  and 
lodging  houses  in  the  city,  there  is  a  still 
larger  number  of  establishments,  known 
as  boarding-houses,  which  the  stranger 
will  do  well  to  avoid. 

Conveyances. — The  most  popular  con- 
veyance iu  New  York  is  undoubtedly  the 
street  car,  stage,  or  omnibus.  Their 
cheapness  and  despatch  equally  commend 
them  to  general  use.  Of  the  former  there 
are  thirteen  distinct  lines,  and  twenty- 
nine  of  the  latter,  which  extend  to  every 
part  of  the  city.  A  uniform  charge  of  six 
cents  is  made  for  each  passenger  on  the 
cars,  and  ten  cents  on  the  stages.  (See 
City  Directory.) 

Carriages,  Hackney  Coaches,  etc. — 
These  can  be  hired  by  the  hour,  day,  or 
trip.  A  city  ordinance  requires  each  driver 
to  keep  his  schedule  of  prices  posted  up 
inside  his  conveyance,  but  this  very  wise 
measure  is  not  always  carried  out.  They 
will,  however,  generally  be  found  at  the 
leading  hotels.  In  no  case  should  an 
overcharge  be  submitted  to.  If  travellers 
and  strangers  would  but  insist  on  their 
rights  in  this  matter,  they  would  be  more 
generally  respected.  Carriage  and  hack 
drivers,  as  a  general  rule,  if  left  to  decide 
for  themselves  between  a  license  to  do 
right  and  the  liberty  to  do  wrong,  will 
not  be  slow  to  adopt  the  latter  alterna- 
tive. Separate  charges  are  made  for  one- 
horse  and  two-horse  carriages.  The 
former  are  known  as  cabriolets  or  cabs. 
Ilansoms  or  London  Safetys  have  been 
recently  introduced,  but  it  will  be  long 
before  they  become  popular.  When  con- 
veyances are  engaged  by  the  hour,  the 
driver  should  be  notified  on  entering ; 
otherwise  he  can  demand  the  price  of  "  a 
course  "  for  each  stoppage. 

Ferries. — There  are  twenty-six  lines  of 
ferries  runninir  between  the  several  ferry 
landings  in  New  York  and  Brooklyn, 
Creenpoint,  Tloboken,  Hunter's  Point, 
Jersey  City,  Mott  Haven,  Pavonia,  Staten 
•islaud,  Weehawken,  and  Fort  Lee. 


10 


NORTH  EIYER. 

Keio  Jersey  Central  JxoAIroad. — From 
Liberty  Street  to  Communipaw,  N.  J. 

Jersey  City  Ferry. — From  Cortlandt 
Street  to  Montgomery  Street,  Jersey  City, 
three  cents. 

Staten  Island  Ferry — (North  Shore). — 
From  pier  19,  twelve  cents. 

Hoboken  Ferry. — From  foot  of  Barclay 
Street  to  Iloboken,  three  cents. 

Pavonia  Ferry. — From  foot  of  Cham- 
bers Street  to  Jersey  City  (Erie  Kail- 
way),  three  cents. 

Jersey  City  Ferry. — From  foot  of  Des- 
brosses  Street  to  Montgomery  Street,  Jer- 
sey City  (N.  J.  11.  R.) 

Christopher  Street  Ferry. — From  Chris- 
topher Street  to  Hoboken,  N.  J.,  three 
cents. 

WeehawJcen,  Ferry. — From  Forty-sec- 
ond Street  to  Weehawken,  N.  J.,  five 
cents. 

Eighty  -  fifth  Street  Ferry.  —  From 
Eighty-fifth  Street  to  Bull's  Ferry. 

EAST  KIVER. 

Steden  Islemd  Ferry. — From  the  Bat- 
tery to  Staten  Island,  connecting  with 
Staten  Island  Railroad,  ten  cents, 

Hamilton  Avenue  Ferry. — From  White^ 
hall  Street  to  Atlantic  Dock,  Brooklpi, 
two  cents. 

South  Ferry. — From  foot  of  AYliitchall 
Street  to  Atlantic  Street,  Brooklyn,  two 
cents. 

Wall  Street  Ferry. — From  foot  of 
Wall  Street  to  Montague  Street,  Brook 
lyn,  two  cents. 

Fulton  Ferry. — From  Fulton  Street, 
New  York,  to  Fulton  Street,  Brooklyn, 
two  cents. 

Roosevelt  Street  Ferry. — I'rom  Roose- 
velt Street  to  South  Seventh  Street, 
Brooklyn,  E.  D.  (Williamsburgh),  three 
cents. 

Hunter'* s  Point  Ferry. — From  James 
Slip  to  Hunter's  Point,  L.  I.,  connecting 
with  Long  Island  Railroad,  eight  cents. 

Bridge  Street  Ferry. — From  foot  of 
James  Street  to  Bridge  Street,  Brooklyn, 
two  cents, 

Catharine  Street  Ferry. — From  Cath- 
arine Street  to  Main  Street,  Brooklyn, 
two  cents. 


New  York  City.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[New  York  City. 


Jachnon  Street  Ferry. — From  Jackson 
Street  to  Hudson  Avenue,  Brooklyn, 
tliree  cents. 

Division  Avenue  Ferry. — From  Grand 
Street  to  South  Seventh  Street,  Brook- 
lyn. E.  D.  (Williamsburgh),  three  cants. 

Grand  Street  Ferry. — From  Grand 
Street,  New  York,  to  Grand  Street,  Brook- 
lyn, E.  D.,  (Williamsburgh),  also  to  South 
Seventh  Street,  three  cents. 

Housio:i  Street  Ferry. — From  Houston 
Street  to  Grand  Street,  Brooklyn,  E.  B. 
(Williamsburgh),  three  cents. 

Greenpoint  Ferry. — From  Tenth  Street 
to  Greenpoint,  L.  I.,  four  cents. 

Tmenty-tliird  Street  Ferry.  — From 
Twenty-third  Street  to  Greenpoint,  four 
cents. 

Thirty-fourth  Street  Ferry.  —  From 
Thirty-fourth  Street  to  Hunter's  Point, 
four  cents. 

HeUgate  Ferry. — From  Eighty-sixth 
Street  to  Astoria,  L.  I.,  four  cents. 

As  many  visitors  to  New  York  desire 
to  see  the  city  without  the  expenditure 
of  time  necessary  to  visit  the  different 
objects  of  interest,  we  have  thought  it 
best  to  mention  in  tlie  Hand-book  a  few 
of  the  best  points  for  observation.  For 
those  in  the  south  or  down-town  quarter, 
the  steeple  of  Trinity  Church  on  Broad- 
way, head  of  Wall  Street,  will  be  found 
the  most  convenient.  A  view  from  this 
magnificent  elevation  will  afford  the  vis- 
itor the  best  idea  of  the  general  extent 
and  topography  of  the  city.  Ascent  is 
by  winding  stairs,  with  frequent  landing- 
places  for  rest.  Admission  at  all  hours 
of  the  day  except  during  divine  service. 
The  janitor  is  entitled  to  a  fee  of  twenty- 
five  cents  for  each  person.  From  the 
roof  of  the  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel,  on  Mad- 
ison Square,  a  fine  though  less  extended 
view  of  the  city  and  suburbs  is  had.  By 
applying  at  the  office  of  the  hotel,  per- 
mission will  be  granted  to  make  the  as- 
cent in  the  passenger  elevator,  or  vertical 
railway,  used  by  the  guests  of  the  house, 
a  privilege  not  to  be  lightly  esteemed  in 
warm  weather,  or  indeed  in  any  weather. 

Places  of  Amusement,  etc. — The 
Academy  of  Music  (Opera  House), 
completely  destroyed  by  fire.  May 
21,  1866,  occupied  an  area  of  24,000 
square  feet,  and  had  sittings  for  4,500 
persons.     The  cost  of  ground  and  build- 


ing exceeded  $300,000.  It  occupied  a 
central  and  advantageous  locality  at  the 
intersection  of  East  Fourteenth  Street  and 
Irving  Place,  but  from  its  immense  size 
and  the  unfortunate  auspices  under  which 
it  was  conducted  it  was  pecuniarily  un- 
successful. It  is  now  in  process  of  re- 
construction. The  French  Opera  House 
is  on  West  Fourteenth  Street,  near  Sixth 
Avenue. 

Among  the  Dramatic  institutions  of 
the  city,  the  best  conducted  and  best 
worthy  of  patronage  are  Nihlo^s^  under 
the  Metropolitan  Hotel,  Broadway  ; 
Winter  Garden — immediately  adjoining 
the  Southern  (late  La  Farge)  Hotel,  641 
Broadway ;  and  WaUack^s  Theatre,  at  the 
corner  of  Broadway  and  Thirteenth  Street. 
At  Wallack''s,  the  old-school  comedies  are 
rendered  in  a  style  unequalled  by  any 
other  theatre  in  the  country.  The  Olym 
pic  Theatre  is  in  Broadway,  between 
Bleecker  and  Houston  Streets.  Broad- 
toay  Theatre  (formerly  Wallack's),  at  485 
Broadway,  near  corner  of  Broome  Street ; 
Wood''s  Theatre  on  Broadway,  facing  the 
St.  Nicholas  Hotel,  are  smaller  temples 
of  the  Drama.  The  Neio  Bowery  Theatre 
is  in  the  Bowery,  near  Canal  Street ;  it 
has  sittings  for  upward  of  3,000  people. 
The  Old  Bowery  Fhcairc,  also  near  Canal 
Street,  occupies  a  site  upon  which  three 
theatres  have  been  successively  burnt 
and  rebuilt.  The  performances  here  are 
spectacular  and  highly  sensational.  The 
Stadt  Theatre  (German  Opera)  is  also  in 
the  Bowery,  nearly  opposite  the  old 
Bowery  theatre.  Barnum^s  Museum, 
once  one  of  the  recognized  "  sights  "  and 
still  the  only  first-class  exhibition  of  its 
kind  in  the  metropolis,  is  now  located  in 
the  old  Chinese  Assembly  Rooms,  Nos. 
537-541,  Broadway,  above  Spring,  having 
been  moved  thither  immediately  after  the 
fire  of  July  13,  1865,  which  destroyed 
the  old  Museum  building,  corner  of 
Broadway  and  Ann  ;  a  theatre  and  zo- 
ological collection  form  attractive  and 
permanent  features  of  this  establishment. 
The  New  York  Circus,  East  Fourteenth 
Street,  opposite  Irving  Place.  The  hour 
of  commencement  at  the  most  of  these 
estabhshments  is  8  o'clock ;  seats  at  the 
opera  and  at  the  leading  theatres  can  be 
engaged  at  the  principal  hotels. 

Besides  the  private  baths 


Baths,  etc- 


11 


New  York  City.] 


NEW   YORK. 


[Xett  YonK  City. 


with  one  or  more  of  which  the  leading 
hotels  and  first-class  boarding-houses  are 
fitted,  there  is  little  to  tempt  the  stranger 
in  New  York  to  enjoy  that  greatest  of  all 
luxuries — a  bath.  There  are  no  swim- 
ming batlis  worthy  tlie  name,  except  such 
as  Nature  has  lavishly  provided  on  the 
bay  and  neighboring  shores.  For  those 
fond  of  the  Turkish  and  Russian  vapor 
baths,  the  establishment  known  as  the 
Turkish  Bath  Establishment^  No.  13 
Laight  Street,  near  Canal,  and  those  con- 
ducted by  Dr.  Guttman,  at  25  East  Fourth 
Street,  will  be  found  the  best.  The  for- 
mer establishment,  under  the  proprietor- 
ship of  Drs.  Miller  and  Wood,  is  admi- 
rably arranged  and  conducted.  It  is 
pleasantly  and  centrally  located  near  St. 
John's  Park,  easily  reached  from  Broad- 
way and  Canal  Streets.  Hours  :  gentle- 
men, 6  to  8  a.  m.  and  1  to  9  p.  m.  ;  la- 
dies, 10  to  12  A.  M. 

Telegraphs. — The  principal  Telegraph 
Companies  whose  head  offices  are  located 
in  New  York,  are  the  American,  145 
Broadway,  with  branch  offices  at  all  the 
principal  railway  depots,  hotels,  etc. ;  the 
United  States,  117  Broadway;  and  the 
Western  Union,  145  Broadw^ay. 

Parks,  Squares,  etc. — New  York  has 
fourteen  public  grounds  know'n  as  parks 
or  squares.  Of  these  by  far  the  largest 
and  most  frequented  is  the  Central  Far Jc. 
This  noble  pleasance  is  situated  on  the 
eastern  slope  of  an  elevated  ridge,  ex- 
tending along  the  western  side  of  the 
island,  in  tlie  upper  part  of  the  city,  be- 
tween the  Fifth  and  the  Eighth  Avenues, 
east  and  west,  and  Fifty-ninth  and  One 
Hundred  and  Tenth  Streets,  south  and 
north.  It  emljraces  an  area  of  843  acres, 
extending  two  and  a  half  miles  in  length 
by  half  a  mile  in  breadth.  (See  accom- 
panying Map.) 

The  ordinance  creating  the  Comrais- 
pioners  of  the  Central  Park  was  passed 
May  19,  185G,  and  the  surveys  were  be- 
gun early  in  Jinie  following.  The  Park, 
as  will  be  seen  by  reference  to  the  ac- 
companying chart  plan,  is  divided  cross- 
wise into  three  sections  of  unequal  ex- 
tent, known  as  the  Lower,  Central,  and 
Upper  Parks. 

The  Ijiwer  Park  contains  an  area  of 
336  acres,  and  extends  from  Fifty-ninth 
to  Seventy-ninth  Streets.  This  was  the 
12 


first  improved  portion  of  the  grounds, 
and  may  very  properly  be  regarded  as  the 
park  proper. 

The  Old  and  New  Reservoirs  occupy  a 
considerable  portion  of  the  central  divis- 
ion of  the  grounds.  Above  the  reser- 
voirs, reaching  to  One  Hundred  and  Tenth 
Street,  is  the  section  popularly  known  as 
the  Upper  Park.  This,  though  little  im- 
proved, has  greater  natural  attractions 
than  any  other  portion  of  the  park,  and 
v.ill,  in  the  course  of  a  few  years,  be  the 
most  fiequented.  The  whole  cost  of  the 
park,  including  the  purchase  of  the 
grounds,  thus  far,  has  been  upward  of 
nine  and  a  half  millions  of  dollars.  The 
attendance  has  been  large,  and  is  steadily 
increasing.  In  1862  upward  of  four 
millions  of  people  visited  it ;  in  1863, 
four  and  a  half  millions;  and  in  1864, 
nearly  six  millions.  The  number  of  car- 
riages which  entered  the  gates  during  the 
last  year  were  1,148,161. 

The  best  point  at  which  to  enter  the 
park  on  foot  is  at  Sixth  Avenue  and 
Fifty-ninth  Street.  The  chief  carriage 
entrance  is  at  Fifth  Avenue  and  Fifty- 
ninth  Street ;  but  the  stranger  visiting 
Central  Park  will  have  no  difficulty  in 
reaching  the  park  from  almost  any  direc- 
tion. Gateways  for  the  four  entrances  on 
Fifty-ninth  Street  are  about  to  be  erected, 
from  designs  by  Hunt.  The  park  is  open 
every  day  in  the  year — during  the  winter 
and  spring  months  from  6  to  9  o'clock, 
and  in  the  skating  season  till  midnight. 
During  July,  August,  and  September,  from 
5  A.  M.  to  1 1  1\  M. 

The  Old  and  Nev/  Reservoirs  constitute 
prominent  features  of  the  Park.  The 
former  is  1,826  feet  in  length  and  835  feet 
wide,  and  has  a  cr.paeity  of  150,000,000 
gallons.  The  latter,  constructed  at  the 
time  of  the  Park,  is  a  gigantic  work,  and 
considered  in  connection  with  the  Croton 
Aqueduct  and  tb.e  admirable  water  system 
of  New  York,  is  worthy  the  attention  of 
every  stranger.  Tlie  area  of  this  vast  basin 
is  106  acres,  and  its  capacity  over  1,000,- 
000,000  gallons.  The  nearest  approach 
is  by  the  gates  at  Ninetieth  and  Ninety- 
sixth  streets,  on  the  Fifth  Avenue.  The 
summit  of  the  reservoir  walls  serve  as  a 
j)leasant  promenade,  and  command  a  fine 
view.  The  gate-houses  are  massive  struc- 
tures  of  stone.     The  Lakes  are  among 


New  Yokk  City.] 


NEW   YORK. 


[New  York:  City. 


the  most  attractive  features  of  the  Park ; 
they  are  five  in  number,  and  embrace  an 
area  of  43 1  acres.  The  largest  is  a 
beautiful  sheet  of  water,  lying  between 
Seventy-second  and  Seventy-ninth  Streets. 
Pleasure-boats  are  kept  for  hire.  Some 
fine  specimens  of  native  and  iioported 
swans  are  to  be  seen  on  the  lake.  In 
the  skating  season  it  is  resorted  to  by 
thousands  of  both  sexes.  The  Marble 
Arch  is  a  fine  structure  near  the  lower 
cud  of  the  Park,  and  not  far  from  the 
JIail.  The  Mall^  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in 
length,  and  covered  with  a  beautiful 
growth  of  grass,  furnishes  a  delightful 
promenade.  At  the  upper  extremity  of 
the  Mall  is  the  Music  Pa.nllon.  On  band 
days  (Wednesdays  and  Saturdays  3.30  to 
5  o'clock  p.  M.)  the  attendance  in  this  part 
of  the  grounds  is  unusually  large  and 
brilliant.  West  of  the  Mall  and  between 
it  and  the  Drive  stand  the  oak  and  elm 
planted  by  the  Prince  of  Wales  in  18G0. 

Descending  from  the  Terrace  which 
forms  the  upper  part  of  theJ/n//,  and  the 
plateau  vfhich  it  traverses,  the  visitor  is 
conducted  by  a  flight  of  stairs  to  the 
Lake.  The  Ramble^  covering  an  area  of 
88  acres  of  sloping  hills,  extends  from 
the  Old  Reservoir  to  Central  Lake.  It 
abounds  in  pleasant  sliady  walks,  and  is 
much  frequented  by  Park  visitors.  The 
Stone  Arch.,  on  the  western  slope  of  the 
Ramble,  is  much  admired.  The  Cave  and 
the  Tuanel  are  also  objects  of  interest. 

The  Museum  is  contained  in  a  castel- 
lated  structure   formerly  occupied  as  a 
State   arsenal,   near  "  Pii'th   Avenue   and 
Sixty-fourth  Street.     The  art  collection  is 
small,  but  of  much  promise.     Here,  dur- 
ing the  winter  months,  are  housed  the  few 
animals  which  it  is  intended  will  form  the 
nucleus  of  a  future  Zoo^ojicccl   Garden. 
The    Green^   Play-ground^   Dovecot.,  and 
the  Knoll,  are  all  frequented  spots  in  tlie 
Park.     The  elevation  of  the  last-named 
point  is  137  feet  above  tide-water  in  the 
river.     It  is  said  to  be  the  highest  ground 
in  the  Park,  and  commands  a  fine  view  of 
it.     The  Refectory,  in  the  Lower  Park, 
near  the  Mall,  is  a  pleasant  place  to  so- 
journ  awhile    after    a    stroll    or    drive 
through  the  Park.     If  the  keepers  would 
improve  their   cuisine   and    keep   better 
fare,  they  would  render  it  still  more  pleas- 
ant.    The  Boulevard  Drive,  when  finish- 


ed, will  be  one  of  the  great  features  of 
Central  Park.  It  will  extend  nortliward 
from  the  Park  five  miles  to  ICing's  liriilge, 
on  Spuyten  Duyvel  Creek.  To  those 
visiting  the  Park  during  the  winter 
months,  the  road  traversing  the  western 
side  of  the  Middle  Park,  between  Seventy- 
second  and  One  Hundred  and  Second 
Streets,  known  as  the  Winter  Drive,  will 
be  found  very  attractive.  McGowati's 
Pass,  the  Dluff,  the  Arboretum,  and 
Ntirsery,  are  all  reached  at  the  upper  or 
northern  extremity  of  the  ground.  The 
grounds,  as  at  present  laid  out,  embrace 
10  miles  of  carriage  road,  6  miles  of 
finished  bridle  road,  and  upward  of  30 
miles  of  gravel  walk. 

The  Battery,  which  contains  10  acres, 
is  situated  at  the  extreme  south  end 
of  the  city,  at  tlie  commencement  of 
Broadway,  and  is  planted  with  trees  and 
laid  out  in  gravel  walks.  From  this 
place  is  a  delightful  view  of  the  har- 
bor and  its  islands,  of  the  numerous 
vessels  arriving  and  departing,  of  the  ad- 
jacent shores  of  New  Jersey,  and  of 
Staten  and  Long  Islands.  Castle  Garden, 
on  the  Battery,  was  at  one  time  a  popular 
public  hall.  Here  Jenny  Lind  first  sang 
in  America.  Here,  too,  the  fairs  of  the 
American  Institute  were  once  held.  It 
is  now  used  for  the  purposes  of  the  Board 
of  Emigration. 

The  Bovding  Green,  so  called  from  its 
use  prior  to  the  Revolution,  is  situated 
near  the  Battery,  and  at  the  commence- 
ment of  Broadway.  It  is  of  an  oval 
form,  and  surrounded  by  an  iron  railing. 
It  is  the  oldest  public  ground  in  the 
city,  having  served  as  the  Dutch  parade- 
s-round and  market-niace.  It  was  en- 
closed  in  1732. 

The  Park  is  a  triangular  enclosure  in 
the  lower  part  of  the  city.  It  has  an 
area  of  10  acres,  and  contains  the  City 
Hall  and  other  buildings. 

St.  John's  Park  (Hudson  Square)  is  a 
small  but  beautiful  enclosure  of  four  acres 
in  Hudson  Street,  belonging  to  the  vestry 
of  Trinity  Church.  St.  John's  Church,  a 
Chapel  of  Trinity,  is  on  the  east  side  of 
the  square. 

Washington  Square  (Parade-Ground) 
is  a  pleasant  up-town  park,  a  little  west 
of  Broadway,  with  the  elegant  private 
residences  of  Waverley  Place  and  Fourth 

13 


New  York  City.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[New  York  City. 


Street  on  the  north  and  south  sides, 
and  upon  the  east  the  grand  marble 
edifice  of  the  New  York  University  and 
Dr.  Ilutton's  beautiful  Gothic  church.  A 
fountain  occupies  the  centre  of  these 
grounds,  whicli  embrace  about  nine 
acres. 

Union  FarJc,  a  most  charming  bit  of 
wood  and  hiwn,  is  in  Union  Square,  at 
the  intersection  of  Fourth  Avenue  and 
Broadway,  extending  from  Fourteenth  to 
Seventeenth  Streets.  On  the  southeast 
corner  of  Union  Square  is  the  Union 
Place  Hotel  and  the  fi.ne  bronze  equestrian 
statue  of  Washincftoji,  by  Henry  K.  Brown. 
On  the  upper  side  is  the  Everett  House, 
and,  near  by,  the  Clarendon  Hotel. 
Upon  the  west  is  Dr.  Cheever's  "  Church 
of  the  Puritans,"  the  Spingler  Hotel,  and 
the  Athenasum  and  City  Club  Houses. 

Gramcrci/  Pa-rk,  a  little  to  the  nortli- 
east  of  Union  Square,  is  a  charming 
ground,  belonging  to  the  owners  of  the 
elegant  private  homes  around  it.  Lexing- 
ton Avenue  and  Irving  Place  are  in  the 
immediate  vicinity. 

S'w/vcsant  Square  is  divided  in  the 
centre  by  the  passage  of  the  Second 
Avenue.  It  extends  from  Fifteenth  to 
Seventeenth  Streets.  The  Church  of 
Saint  George's  (Rev.  Dr.  Tyng)  is  upon 
the  vrest  side  of  this  park.  The  enclosure 
consists  of  three  acres,  and  was  presented 
by  the  late  P.  G.  Stuyvesant  to  the 
church. 

Tompkins  Sgziare  is  between  Avenues 
A  and  B,  and  Seventh  and  Tenth  Streets  ; 
it  contains  between  10  and  11  acres. 

Madison  Square  is  six  acres  in  extent, 
just  above  tlie  intersection  of  Broadway 
and  Fifth  Avenue  at  Twenty-third  Street. 
The  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel,  Hoffman  House, 
and  many  otlier  fine  hotels  and  private 
residences,  face  this  square,  which  is  much 
resorted  to.  On  the  west  side,  at  the 
junction  of  Broadway  and  Twenty-fifth 
Street,  stands  a  monument  to  General 
Worth. 

JIamiHon  Square,  embracing  15  acres, 
is  still  higher  up  tov/n,  between  Sixty- 
sixth  and  Sixty-ninth  Streets,  and  Third 
an<i  Fourth  Aveiuics. 

Besides  those  enumerated  are  Bloom- 

inr/dale  Sqtiarc,    Ohsrrvatori/  Place,   and 

Mount  Morris.     Matiha/tan  Square  is  a 

fine    enclosure    of    1'.)    acres,    adjoining 

U 


Central  Park  on  the  west.  It  has  beea 
incorporated  with  that  ground. 

Public  Buildings. — The  Citi/  Hall  is 
an  imposing  edifice;  the  south  front,  216 
feet  in  length,  is  built  of  marble,  and  the 
rear,  or  north  side,  of  Nyack  freestone. 
It  was  constructed  between  the  years 
1803  and  1812,  the  foundation  having 
been  laid  September  25,  1803.  It  occu- 
pies the  centre  of  the  Park,  the  site  of 
the  first  Poor-House  erected  in  New  York, 
in  the  lower  part  of  the  city,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  other  city  offices.  The  ar- 
chitects were  Macomb  &  Mangin.  In 
this  building  are  twenty-eight  offices  and 
other  public  apartments,  the  principal  of 
Avhich  is  the  Governor's  Room,  appropri- 
ated to  the  use  of  that  functionary  on  his 
visiting  the  city,  and  occasionally  to  that 
of  other  distinguished  individuals.  The 
w'alls  of  this  room  are  embellished  with  a 
fine  collection  of  portraits  of  men  cele- 
brated in  the  civil,  military,  or  naval  his- 
tory of  the  country,  embracing  1 Y  of  the 
governors,  26  mayors,  Presidents  Wash- 
ington, Monroe,  Taylor,  and  Fillmore. 
In  the  Common  Council  Room  is  the 
identical  chair  occupied  by  Washington 
when  President  of  the  first  American 
Congress,  which  assembled  in  this  city. 

The  County  Court  House  occupies  a 
conspicuous  locale  on  the  City  Parle, 
facing  Chambers  Street,  and  contiguous 
to  the  City  Hall.  The  building,  which 
was  commenced  September  16,  1861, 
is  wholly  of  white  marble,  in  the  Italian 
style  of  architecture.  It  is  rectangular 
in  form,  250  feet  long,  150  feet  wide, 
and  three  stories  high.  The  entire  Ptreet 
frontage  is  1,040  feet.  The  main  building 
will  be  surmounted  by  a  dome  128  feet 
high.  The  total  height  of  the  structure 
from  street  to  top  of  dome  will  be  210 
feet.  Upward  of  $2,250,000  have  already 
been  expended  in  the  purchase  of  the 
ground  and  the  erection  of  the  edifice,  and 
§1,000,000  Cnorewill  be  required  to  finish 
it.  The  Custom  House  (formerly  the  Mer- 
chants' Exchange)  is  on  "Wall  Street, 
corner  of  William.  It  is  built  of  Quincy 
granite,  and  is  fire-proof,  no  wood  having 
been  used  in  its  construction,  except  for 
the  doors  and  Aviudow-frames,  It  is 
erected  on  the  site  occupied  by  the  Ex- 
change building  destroyed  by  the  great 
firo  of  1835.     The  present  one,  however, 


New  York  City.] 


NEW   YOIIK. 


[New  York  City. 


covers  the  entire  block,  and  is  200  feet 
long  by  111  to  144  wide,  and  124  to  the 
tope  of  the  dome.  Its  portico,  resting  on 
18  massive  Ionic  columns,  has  a  fine  ef- 
fect. The  entire  cost  of  the  building,  iu- 
cluding  the  ground,  was  over  $1,800,000. 

The  U.  8.  Treasury  (once  the  Custom 
House)  is  on  Wall  and  Nassau  Streets, 
the  site  occupied  by  Old  Federal  Hall 
It  is  built  of  white  marble,  in  the  Doric 
order,  similar  in  model  to  the  Parthenon 
at  Athens.  It  is  200  feet  long,  90  Avide, 
and  80  high.  The  great  hall  for  the 
transaction  of  business  is  a  circular  room, 
60  feet  in  diameter,  surmounted  by  a 
dome,  supported  by  16  Corinthian  col- 
umns 30  feet  high,  and  having  a  skylight, 
through  which  the  hall  is  lighted.  The 
cost  of  the  building,  including  the  ground, 
was  $1,195,000. 

The  Fo8o-  Ojjice  is  in  Nassau  Street,  be- 
tween Cedar  and  Liberty  Streets.  The 
building  is  noteworthy  only  as  a  relic  of 
the  past,  having  been  formei'ly  used  as  a 
church  by  one  of  the  old  Du^.ch  congrega- 
tions, and  known  as  the  "  Middle  Dutch 
Church."  In  the  old  wooden  steeple  of 
this  building  Franklin  practised  his  ex- 
periments in  electricity.  It  sustained  great 
injuries  during  the  British  occupation  of 
the  city,  but  was  fitted  for  public  worship 
in  1790.  It  was  first  used  as  U.  S.  Post- 
Office,  February  17,  1844.  A  site  for  a 
nevf  Post-Office  building  has  just  been 
selected  at  the  south  end  of  the  Park. 

The  Hall  of  Justice^  or  "  Tomhs^''''  is 
located  in  Centre  Street,  between  Leonard 
and  Franklin  Streets.  It  is  a  substantial 
looking  building,  in  the  Egyptian  style  of 
architecture,  253  feet  long  and  200  wide, 
constructed  of  a  light-colored  granite. 
The  city  prison  has  150  cells.  The  court 
of  sessions,  police,  and  other  courts,  are 
held  here.  Admission  granted  on  appli- 
cation to  the  keeper. 

The  Old  Clin  Armory  or  Arsenal  is  at 
the  junction  of  Elm  and  White  Streets. 
It  is  of  blue-stone,  in  the  Gothic  style. 
The  new  arsenal  is  at  the  corner  of  Thirty- 
fifth  Street  and  Seventh  Avenue. 

Literary  and  Scientific  Institutions, 
ETC.,  ETC, — The  educational  system  of  the 
city  is  under  the  control  of  a  Board  of 
Education  (office,  140  Grand  Street,  cor. 
Elm),  composed  of  21  Commissioners 
of  Common  Schools,  elected  for  terms 


of  three  yeara.  There  are  257  schools 
in  the  city,  89  of  which  arc  primary,  and 
15  for  colored  children.  The  aggregate 
attendance  (1865)  was  189,814. 

Columbia  College,  on  50th  Street  near 
Fifth  Avenue,  is  an  ancient  establishment, 
having  been  chartered  by  George  II.  in 
1754,  under  the  title  of  King's  College. 
Until  within  a  few  years  back  it  occupied 
a  site  in  Park  Place.  The  green  lawns 
adjoining  its  old  site  have  long  since 
been  built  over.  The  college  has  a  pres- 
ident and  12  professors,  a  library  of 
20,000  volumes,  and  a  museum. 

The  JV^ew  York  Unlversiiy  occupies  a 
grand  Gothic  edifice  of  white  marble,  upon 
the  east  side  of  Washington  Square, 
Wooster  Street,  corner  Waverley  Place. 
This  structure  is  a  fine  example  of  pointed 
architecture,  not  unlike  that  of  King's  Col- 
lege, Cambridge,  England.  The  chapel 
—in  the  central  building — ^is,  with  its 
noble  window,  50  feet  high  and  24  feet 
wide,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  rooms  in 
the  country.  The  whole  edifice  is  200 
feet  in  length  and  100  feet  deep.  It  was 
founded  in  1831.  A  valuable  library 
and  philosophical  apparatus  is  attached 
to  the  University. 

The  Cooper  lyistltute  ( Union)  occupies 
a  magnificent  brown-stone  edifice  oppo- 
site the  Bible  House  on  Astor  Place,  at 
the  point  where  the  union  of  the  Third  and 
Fourth  avenues  forms  the  Bowery.  Its 
main  front,  143  feet  long,  is  on  Eighth 
Street.  It  was  founded  by  the  generous 
munificence  of  Peter  Cooper,  an  eminent 
merchant  of  New  York.  The  building 
cost  about  $000,000.  It  is  devoted  to 
the  free  education  of  tiie  people  in  the 
practical  arts  and  sciences.  It  was  pub- 
licly opened  in  November,  1859,  with 
over  2,000  students.  It  contains  a  free 
reading-room  and  library.  One  of  its 
departments  is  a  School  of  Design  for 
women.  The  basement  is  devoted  to 
the  purposes  of  a  lecture-room.  The  Free 
Academy  {New  York  College),  at  the  inter- 
section of  Lexington  Avenue  and  Twenty- 
third  Street,  is  an  imposing  and  highly 
ornamental  structure,  erected  in  1848. 
This  is  a  public  collegiate  academy  of 
the  highest  rank.  Its  students  are  chosen 
from  the  pupils  of  the  public  schools  only. 
It  will  accommodate  1,000  pupils.  The 
cost  of  the  building,  grounds,  and  furni- 

15 


New  York  City.] 


NEW  YOKE. 


[New  York  City. 


ture  was  $152,000.  Lyceum  of  Katural 
History^  5G1  Broadway.  The  General 
Theological  Semiiiarjf  of  the  Protestant 
Episcopal  Church  is  pleasantly  situated  on 
West  Twentieth  Strcet,bctween  Ninth  and 
Tenth  Avenues.  The  Union  Theolofjical 
Seminary,  founded  in  1836,  is  at  9  Univer- 
sity Place,  just  above  the  New  York  Uni- 
versity. The  JVew  York  Historical  Socie- 
ty, estabhshcd  in  1809,  occupies  an  edi- 
fice of  yellow  sandstone  on  Second  Ave- 
nue, corner  of  Eleventh  Street.  Its  library 
and  art  collection  are  large  and  valuable. 
The  American  Gcoyrapldcal  and  Statis- 
tical Society  has  rooms  in  Clinton  Hall, 
Astor  Place.  The  Neio  York  Law  Insii- 
tute  is  in  the  City  Hall.  College  of  St. 
Frayicis  Xavier,  on  Fifteenth  Street  be- 
tween Fifth  and  Sixth  Avenues,  was  found- 
ed in  1850.  It  has  a  library  of  15,000 
volumes. 

LiBPwARiES. — New  York  possesses  up- 
ward of  twenty  public  libraries.  The  first, 
or  "  Public  Library,"  was  commencoti  in 
IVOO.  (See  Society  Library.)  The  fol- 
lowing are  those  best  worth  visiting : 

Tiie  Astor  Library,  on  Lafayette  Place 
near  Astor  Place,  was  founded  by  John 
Jacob  Astor,  who  endowed  it  with  the  sum 
of  $400,000.  The  building,  erected  in 
1853,  65  feet  by  120,  was  enlarged  in  1857 
by  the  addition  of  another  building  corre- 
sponding in  size  to  the  original.  It  is 
of  biick,  ornamented  with  brown-stone 
in  the  Romanesque  stvle,  and  cost  $'70- 
000.  The  Library  Hall  is  50  feet  high, 
and  approached  by  a  fiight  of  38  marble 
steps.  The  collection  of  books  numbers 
135,000,  and  constitutes  one  of^  the 
largest  and  most  valuable  public  libraries 
on  the  continent.  Open  daily  (except 
Sundays  and  holidays),  from  9  to  5 
o'clock. 

The  Mercantile  Library,  Clinton  Hall, 
Eighth  Street  near  Broadway,  and  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Cooper 
Ir.::titute,  the  A?tor  Lil)rary,  and  Bible 
House.  It  was  founded  in  1820,  and 
v.os  tivBt  opened  at  49  Fulton  Street, 
February,  1821.  The  collection  then 
numbered  700  volumes,  which  was  in- 
creased in  1826  to  3,000.  The  first  cala- 
logue  was  printed  in  1821.  The  library 
was  moved  to  its  present  quarters  June 
8,  1851.  Us  collection  now  numbers 
86,000  volumes,  in  evcrv  department  of 
16 


letters.  It  has  12,000  members.  It  has 
also  a  lecture  and  reading  room,  and 
cabinets  of  minerals.  The  winter  course 
of  lectures  before  the  Mercantile  Library 
Association  are  among  the  greatest  at- 
tractions of  the  season.  Reading-room 
open  from  8  a.  m.  to  10  p.  m. 

JVew  York  Society  Library,  No.  67  Uni- 
versity Place,  contains  the  oldest  and  one 
of  the  most  valuable  collections  of  books 
in  the  city.  The  "  Public  Library,"  com- 
menced 1700,  during  the  provincial  gov- 
ernorship of  the  Earl  of  Bellamont,  formed 
the  nucleus  of  the  present  library.  In  1729 
it  was  largely  increased  by  a  bequest  from 
Dr.  Millington,  of  Newington,  England. 
In  1754,  and  for  som.e  time  after,  it  was 
known  as  the  "  City  Library."  The  title 
of  New  York  Society  Library  was  given 
to  it  (1772)  under  charter  from  King 
George  III.  It  suffered  severely  during 
the  Revolution — so  severely,  that  at  the 
publication  of  the  first  printed  catalogue 
(1793)  it  contained  but  5,000  volumes,  at 
which  time  it  occupied  a  room  in  the 
City  Hall.  In  1795  it  was  removed  to  a 
building,  then  new,  but  since  removed, 
facing  the  Middle  Dutch  Church  (now 
occupied  as  the  Post-Oflice)  in  Nassau 
Street,  where  it  remained  till  1836,  when 
it  was  again  moved  to  the  rooms  of  the 
Mechanics'  Society,  in  Chambers  Street. 
In  1S25  the  library  numbered  16,000 
vols.  In  1838  the  New  York  Athensum 
was  merged  in  the  Society  Library,  and 
the  whole  was  removed  (1840)  to  a  build- 
ing just  erected,  at  a  cost  of  $74,000,  at 
the  corner  of  Broadway  and  Leonard 
Street.  It  1853  the  Broadway  property 
was  sold,  and  the  library  moved  to  the 
Bible  House,  vfhere  it  remained  until 
1856,  when  it  was  again  removed  to  its 
present  building.  The  library  now  con- 
tains nearly  55,000  vols.  It  has  commo- 
dious reading-rooms.  Strangers  intro- 
duced by  members  have  the  privileges 
of  the  library  and  reading-rooms  for  one 
month.  Open  from  8  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m.  ; 
reading  room  till  10  p.  m. 

New  York  Historical  Library,  Second 
Avenue  corner  East  Eleventh  Street,  has 
30,000  volumes,  and  a  collection  of  antiqui- 
ties, coins,  medals,  etc.  Open  from  9  a.  m. 
to  6  p.  M.  during  the  summer  months,  and 
9  A.  M.  to  9  P.  Ji.  during  the  winter.  A^p- 
prcnticcs'  Library,  in  the  Mechanics'  Hall, 


New  York  City.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[New  York  City. 


4'72  Broadway,  near  Grand  Street,  has  18,- 
000  volumes.  Open  from  9  a.  m.  to  9  p.  m. 
The  Amci'icari  Institute  Library,  incorpo- 
rated 1829,  occupies  rooms  21  to  23,  on  the 
first  floor  of  the  Cooper  Institute.  The 
collection  numbers  10,000  volumes.  The 
annual  exhibitions  of  mechanic  art  and 
industry,  of  this  Society,  make  a  feature 
in  the  autumn  entertainments  of  the 
metropolis.  Open  daily,  9  A.  m.  to  9  p.  m. 
City  Library,  room  12  City  Hall,  has  5,000 
volumes.  Open  daily  from  10  a.  m.  to 
4  p.  M.  Law  Institute  Library,  41  Cham- 
bers Street,  open  daily.  Yoimg  Men's 
Christian  Association,  161  5th  Avenue 
and  VG  Varick  Street.  Open  daily  from 
8  A.  M.  to  10  p.  M.  The  General  Theo- 
logical Seminary  has  a  library  of  18,000 
volumes.  The  Union  Theological  Semi- 
nary Library,  9  University  Place,  num- 
bers 26,000  volumes. 

Art  Societies  and  Galleries. — The 
Wational  Academy  of  Design — the  chief 
art  institution  of  America — was  founded 
in  1826,  since  which  time  it  has  steadily 
advanced  in  influence  and  usefulness.  It 
occupies  a  prominent  locale  at  the  cor- 
ner of  Fourth  Avenue  and  Twenty-third 
Street,  fronting  on  the  latter.  The  front 
is  constructed  of  Westchester  County 
marble,  banded  with  greywacJce ;  is  in 
the  Gothic  style  of  architecture  of  the 
thirteenth  century,  and  presents  a  unique 
and  pleasing  appearance.  The  main 
gates  and  external  ornamental  iron-work 
are  generally  admired.  No  paint  is  used 
on  the  woodwork  of  the  building.  The 
grand  stairway  leading  to  the  art  galler- 
ies is  of  solid  oak,  trimmed  with  walnut. 
Besides  the  central  hall,  picture  galleries, 
and  sculpture-room,  which  are  in  the  third 
story,  it  contains  lecture,  reading,  li- 
brary, and  council-rooms.  It  was  erected 
in  1863,  under  the  superintendence  of 
P.  B.  Wright,  architect,  and  cost 
$150,000.  It  numbers  among  its  academi- 
cians and  associates  nearly  all  of  the 
eminent  artists  of  the  city  and  vicinity. 
Annual  exhibitions  of  the  Academy  are 
held  in  April,  May,  Jui>e,  and  July,  clos- 
ing on  the  4th  of  that  month.  Admis- 
sion, twentj'-five  cents.  The  stranger  in 
New  York  should  not  omit  attending 
these  exhibitions. 

The  Artists''  Fund  Society,  founded  in 
1859,  makes   an  annual   exhibition  and 


sale  of  works  of  art,  in  the  months  of 
November  and  December,  in  the  Academy 
building. 

Art  Studios. — At  No.  51  Tenth 
Street,  near  the  Sixth  Avenue,  there  is  a 
spacious  quadrangvdar  edifice,  culled  the 
Artists''  Studio  Building,  occupied  entire- 
ly by  artists.  A  fine  gallery,  for  the 
uses  of  the  fraternity,  fills  the  court. 
Dodivortli's,  212  Fifth  Avenue,  Madison 
Square,  is  another  famous  resort  of  the 
knights  of  the  easel,  and  so  too  is  the 
University  in  Washington  Park. 

Free  Galleries  for  the  exhibition  and 
sale  of  Avorks  of  Art,  are  at  Schaus',  No. 
749  Broadway;  Goupil's,  Broadway  nud 
Ninth  Street;  Williams',  353  Broadway; 
Snedecor's,  768  Broadway.  Bendann's 
photographic  art  gallery  is  on  Fifth  Av- 
enue, corner  of  Seventeenth  Street. 

Monuments,  Fountains,  etc. — Of  these, 
which  form  one  of  the  most  interesting 
and  characteristic  features  of  most  of 
the  great  cities  of  Europe,  New  York 
has  scarcely  one  worthy  the  name.  The 
equestrian  statue  of  Washington  in 
Union  Square,  near  the  intersection  of 
Fourteenth  Street  with  Broadv/ay,  is  a 
fine  work,  much  admired  for  its  propor- 
tions and  execution.  The  Worth  Jllonu- 
rnent  is  on  Madison  Square,  in  the  vicin- 
ity of  the  Hoftman  House  and  Fifth 
Avenue  Hotel.  The  J/ar/^rs'  Monument 
is  in  Trinity  churchyard.  The  fountains 
in  the  Central  I'ark  are  the  largest  and 
most  admired. 

Charitable  Institutions. — Among  the 
most  noteworthy  charities  of  the  metrop- 
olis are  the  foUowdng,  viz. :  The  New 
York  Hospital,  319  Broadway,  between 
Duane  and  Worth  Streets.  It  was  found- 
ed in  1771  by  the  Earl  of  Dunmore,  then 
governor  of  the  colony.  The  approach 
from  Broadway,  facing  Pearl  Street,  is  by 
an  avenue  ninety  feet  wide,  through  a 
pretty  lawn.  The  main  building  is  of 
gray  stone,  124  feet  long  by  50  feet  deep. 
Connected  with  this  hospital  was  for- 
merly a  Marine  department,  rebuilt  in 
1834,  and  considered  one  of  the  best  ar- 
ranged institutions  of  its  kind  in  the 
country.  This  building  is  now  occupied 
by  the  University  Medical  School.  On 
the  walls  of  the  Governor's  room  in  the 
main  building  immediately  facing  the 
entrance  are  portraits  in  oil  of  the  sev- 

17 


New  York  City.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[New  York  City. 


eral  governors  and  leading  medical  men 
connected  with  the  hospital. 

The  City  Ferdlcntiary^  the  Lunatic  Asy- 
lum, the  A/ms  House,  Hospital,  and  Work 
House^  on  Elackwell's  Island,  in  the  East 
Kiver,  are  worth  the  special  attention  of 
the  stranger.  This  island,  as  also  Ward's 
and  Randall's  Islands,  may  be  i-eached  by 
steamboat  from  foot  of  Grand  Street, 
East  River,  at  12  m.  daily;  or  by  the. 
Harlem  cars  to  Sixty-first  Street.  The 
Work  House  is  one  of  the  most  complete 
edifices  of  its  kind  in  the  country.  It  is 
325  feet  in  length,  has  accommodation 
for  COO  inmates,  and  cost  §;1 00,000. 
Also,  Ward^s  and  RandaWs  Islands,  near 
by,  ai'C  occupied  by  public  charitable  in- 
stitutions. The  elegant  and  massive 
structures  which  cover  this  famous  group 
of  islands  make  a  striking  feature  in  the 
landscape  in  sailing  up  the  East  River  to 
tlie  suburban  villages  on  Long  Island, 
en  route  for  Newport  or  Boston.  In  the 
several  institutions  on  Blackwell's, 
Ward's,  and  Randall's  Islands,  from  five 
to  six  thousand  persons  are  usually  main- 
tained. The  House  of  Refuge,  on  Ran- 
dall's Island,  should  be  visited.  It  is  one 
of  the  most  extensive  establishments  of 
the  kind  in  the  world.  The  boys'  de- 
partment is  600  feet  in  length,  and  the 
girls'  250  feet.  Permits  granted  every 
week-day. 

The  Institution  for  the  Blind  occupies  a 
large  and  imposing  Gothic  edifice  of  gran- 
ite, on  Ninth  Avenue,  between  Thirty- 
third  and  Thirty-fourth  Streets.  Iti.^>  175 
feet  long,  and  three  stories  high.  Visitors 
received  on  Wednesdays  from  9  a.  m.  to 
6  r.  M. 

The  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  occupies 
a  conspicuous  locale  at  Fanwood,  West 
One  Hundred  and  Sixty-second  Street, 
near  Eloomingdale  Road  (Washington 
Heights),  It  is  reached  by  the  cars  of  the 
Harlem  Railroad.  Incorporated  1817, 
oi'cneil  in  the  N.  Y.  Institution  (old  Alms 
House),  in  the  Rark,  1818,  moved  to  new 
building  Fifth  Street,  1828.  The  principal 
building,  110  by  60  feet,  and  five  stories 
high,  lias  acconimoilation  for  between 
200  and  300  i)upils.  Admission  daily 
from  12  to  4  o'clock,  p.  m. 

The  Kew    York  Juvenile  Asylum,  One 
Hundred   and   Seventy-fifth  Street,  near 
Tenth  Aveniie  ajid  High  Bridge,  is  a  noble 
18 


charity.  The  office  of  the  Superintendent 
is  at  the  House  of  Reception,  71  West 
Thirteenth  Street. 

The  Bloomiyifjdale  Asylum  for  the  In- 
sane {Lunatic  Asylum),  and  the  New 
York  Orphan  Asylum,  are  in  the  upper 
part  of  the  island,  on  the  line  of  one  of 
the  pleasantest  drives  about  New  York. 
The  former  of  these  charities  is  a  branch 
of  the  New  York  Hospital,  already  men- 
tioned. It  occupies  a  most  attractive 
and  commanding  site  on  West  One  Hun- 
dred  and  Seventeenth  Street,  near  Tenth 
Avenue.  The  principal  building  is  211 
feet  in  length,  and  four  stories  high. 
The  Orphan  Asylum,  on  Bloomingdale 
Road,  near  Seventy -fourth  Street,  is  120 
feet  long  by  60,  and  has  nine  acres  of 
ground  attached,  commanding  a  fine  view 
of  the  river  on  either  side.  It  was  in- 
corporated in  1807  ;  the  present  edifice 
was  completed  in  1840. 

Bellevue  Hospital,  at  the  foot  of  East 
Twenty-seventh  Street,  is  a  noble  charity 
finished  in  1812.  The  admissions  during 
the  year  1864  numbered  nearly  8,000. 
The  city  Alms  House  which  preceded 
Bellevue  Hospital,  erected  1695,  stood  on 
the  north  side  of  the  Bark,  lacing  Church 
Street. 

St.  Luke's  Hospital  is  at  the  corner  of 
Fifth  Avenue  and  Fifty-fourth  Street. 

The  Home  of  Industry,  155  and  159 
Worth  Street,  near  Centre  and  Pearl 
Streets,  popularly  known  as  the  Five 
Points  House  of  Industry,  from  its  loca- 
tion at  the  intersection  of  five  streets  or 
lanes,  stands  near  the  spot  once  occupied 
by  the  "  Old  Brewery,"  supposed  to  have 
been  built  near  the  corner  of  Broadway 
and  Duane  Street,  prior  to  the  Revolu- 
tion. The  locality  has  long  been  identi- 
fied as  the  abode  of  squalid  poverty  and 
crime  in  New  York,  and  the  "  Home  "  is 
interesting  to  humanitarians  as  a  proof  of 
wliatcan  be  done  for  this  unfortunate  class 
of  population.  It  was  founded  in  1848,  cost 
^80,500,  and  contains  over  oUO  inmates. 
The  expenses  of  the  Home  are  delhiyed 
by  the  labor  of  its  inmates. 

DispensXries.  — Closely  connected  with 
the  foregoing  charities  are  the  DispeU' 
saries,  which  number  eleven.  The  fol- 
lowing are  the  most  prominent : 

iy^orZ/iovi,  founded  1829,  corner  of  Wa- 
verly  Place  and  Christopher  Street. 


New  York  City.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[New  York  City. 


JVortluoesfern,  No.  511  Eighth  Avenue. 

Hew  York,  Centre,  corner  White  Street, 
This  is  the  oldest  institution  of  its  kind 
in  the  city.     EstabUshed  1795. 

Demih,  No.  401  Second  Avenue,  was 
incorporated  March,  1851. 

Eastern^  founded  June  16,  1334,  No. 
57  Essex  Street,  corner  Grand. 

Aiorfheastern,  incorporated  February 
IS,  1861,  southeast  corner  Lexington 
Avenue  and  Fifty-first  Street. 

Medical  Institutions. — The  medical 
institutions  of  New  York  number  fifteen, 
including  five  colleges  and  two  academies, 
all  of  which  are  centrally  located  and 
open  to  the  public  without  fee.  One  of 
the  most  noteworthy — 

The  University  Medical  College^  was 
destroyed  by  fire,  May  21,  1866,  together 
with  its  valuable  library  and  anatomical 
collection,  and  has  not  yet  been  rebuilt. 
It  is  temporarily  located  in  the  north 
building  of  the  New  York  Hospital, 
corner  of  Broadway  and  Worth  Streets. 

College  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons, 
northeast  corner  Fourth  Avenue  and 
Twenty-third  Street,  founded  in  1807,  has 
a  library  and  anatomical  museum. 

JSfeyj  York  Medical  College^  90  East 
Thirteenth  Street,  was  chartered  in  1850, 
and  is  devoted  to  the  instruction  of  young 
practitioners.  It  has  an  anatomical  mu- 
seum, laboratory,  etc.  The  College  of 
Pharmacy  is  located  in  the  same  build- 

IQg. 

Bellevue  Hospital  Medical  College  is 
in  East  Twenty-sixth  Street,  near  First 
Avenue. 

Hommopaihic  Medical  College,  116  East 
Twenty-eighth  Street. 

The  New  York  Academy  of  Medicine 
meets  the  first  Wednesday  of  each  month 
at  the  University  building. 

Theological  Institutions  and  Church- 
es.— New  York  contains  312  church 
edifices,  many  of  them  noteworthy  for 
their  extent  and  beauty  of  design,  but 
few  possessing  much  historical  interest. 
All  the  old  church  buildings  have  been 
long  since  pulled  down  to  make  room  for 
the  demands  of  commerce  and  trade. 

Trinity  Church,  facing  Wall  Street,  on 
Broadway,  will  first  attract  the  stranger's 
attention.  An  entire  forenoon  might  be 
profitably  spent  in  and  around  Trinity. 
It  was  founded  in  1696,  enlarged  in  1737, 


its  dimensions  then  being  148  by  72, 
with  a  steeple  178  feet  high.  The  pres- 
ent edifice  is  the  third  built  on  the  spot, 
the  first  having  been  destroyed  in  the 
great  fire  of  September  21,  1776.  It  was 
commenced  in  1839,  and  completed  in 
1846,  from  designs  by  Upjohn.  Its 
dimensions  are  192  feet  by  80  feet, 
and  60  feet  high.  The  steeple  is  284 
feet  high,  and  has  a  fine  chime  of  bells 
and  clock.  From  this  steeple  the  finest 
panoramic  view  of  the  city,  suburban 
towns,  and  bay  is  obtained.  An  elabo- 
rate silver  service,  presented  to  the  cor- 
poration of  Trinity  by  Queen  Anne  of 
England,  is  among  the  objects  worthy  of 
notice.  In  the  graveyard  adjoining  the 
church  are  the  tombs  of  Alexander  Hamil- 
ton and  of  Commodore  Lawrence,  who  was 
killed  in  the  action  between  the  Chesa- 
peake and  Shannon,  June  1,  1813.  The 
monument  to  the  Sugar-House  martyrs, 
adjoining  Trinity  Buildings,  is  worthy  of 
notice.  No  interments  have  been  made 
in  Trinity  yard  since  1822.  This  grave- 
yard formed  part  of  the  "  church  farm  " 
originally  set  apart  by  the  Dutch  West 
India  Company  "  for  the  use  of  their  offi- 
cers and  the  fort  garrison."  It  was  after- 
ward known  as  the  "  King's  Farm,"  and 
was  granted  to  the  corporation  of  Trinity 
(1705)  by  Lord  Cornbury,  then  British 
governor.  Its  fee  has  served  to  make 
Trinity  Church  the  richest  ecclesiastical 
corporation  in  the  United  States,  and  is 
now  the  source  of  an  immense  yearly 
revenue. 

Grace  Church,  on  Broadway,  near 
Tenth  Street,  from  its  striking  situation 
and  architectural  display,  usually  divides 
with  Trinity  the  first  attention  of  the 
visitor.  Extern ahy  it  is,  perhaps,  the 
most  ornate  specimen  of  ecclesiastical 
architecture  in  the  city.  It  was  built  by 
Renwick  (1845),  and  cost  $145,000.  The 
effect  of  the  stained-glass  windows,  of 
which  there  are  forty,  viewed  from  the 
inside  in  a  bright  sunlight,  is  very  fine. 

St.  Paul's  Church,  the  third  Episcopal 
church  erected  in  the  city  (1766),  stands 
on  Broadway,  immediately  below  the 
Astor  House,  and  facing  the  "Herald" 
building,  which  now  occupies  the  corner 
of  Ann  Street  and  Broadway,  recently 
the  site  of  Barnum's  Museum.  It  is  151 
feet  long,  73  feet  wide,  and  has  a  steeple 

19 


New  York  City.] 


NEW  YOEK. 


[Xew  York  City. 


of  203  feet.  On  a  white  marble  slab,  in 
the  front  of  the  church,  is  an  inscription 
to  the  memory  of  General  Montgomery, 
who  fell  at  Quebec,  December  31,  1775, 
and  whose  remains  were  removed  hither 
July  8,  1813.  Over  this  slab  is  a  monu- 
ment erected  to  his  memory  by  order  of 
Congress,  January  23,  1776.  South  of  the 
church,  facing  Broadway,  is  a  monument 
to  Emmet  the  Irish  patriot,  who  died  in 
New  York,  1827. 

St.  JPatrick^s  Cailiedra^,  now  in  course 
of    construction   on   Fifth   Avenue   and 
Fiftieth  Street,  is  worthy  a   visit  from 
those  interested  in  church  architecture. 
When  finished,  it  will  be  the  largest  and 
one  of  the  most  costly  church  edifices  in 
the  United  States.    Service  was  performed 
until  recently  in  the  Cathedral  erected  in 
1815  at  the  corner  of  Pi-ince  and  Mott 
Streets. 

Si.  George^  Church  occupies  a  con- 
spicuous site  on  Stuyvesant  Square,  in 
East  Sixteenth  Street.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  spacious  and  imposing  church  edi- 
fices of  the  city.  It  is  in  the  Byzantine 
style,  170  feet  long  and  94  feet  wide.  It 
was  erected  in  1849,  and  cost  $250,000; 
the  ground  being  donated  by  the  late 
Feter  G.  Stuyvesant.  It  was  burned 
November  14,  1865,  the  whole  interior 
portion  of  the  building  being  completely 
destroyed.  Damage  estimated  at  $200,- 
000.  It  has  been  fully  restored,  and  is 
again  open  for  public  worship. 

Irbiitii  Chapel^  on  Twenty-fifth  Street, 
west  of  Broadway,  is  an  elegant  edifice, 
erected  by  the  corporation  of  Trinity 
Church  at  a  cost  of  $260,000.  It  is  180 
feet  long,  and  richly  ornamented.  Many 
novel  features  in  church  architecture  and 
appointment  are  noticeable. 

Besides  these,  the  following  will  repay 
a  visit  if  the  stranger  have  time:  St. 
Johii's  (Episcopal),  in  St.  John's  Park  ; 
Church  of  the  Furiians,  Union  Square; 
St.  FanPs  (Methodist),  P'ourth  Avenue  and 
E:ist  Twimty-sccond  Street;  DiUch  Re- 
formed {Dv.  Ilutton),  Washington  Square ; 
St.  Mark's  (Episcopal),  Dr.  Vinton,  Stuy- 
vesant Street,  near  Second  Avenue ;  i'Vr.s-^ 
Jiajdist^  corner  of  Broome  and  Elizabeth 
Streets  ;  Amity  Street  (Baptist),  Dr. 
Williams,  161  Fifth  Avenue;  Madison 
Avenue  (Baptist),  Henry  G.  Weston  ;  Six- 
teenth Street,  JJaptist,  257  West  Six- 
20 


teenth  Street,  near  Eighth  Avenue,  Rev. 
W.  S.  Mikels ;  Church  of  the  jDivine 
Unity  (Universalist)  ;  Church  of  all 
Souls  (Unitarian),  Dr.  Bellows,  Fourth 
Avenue,  corner  of  Twentieth  Street; 
Church  of  the  Holy  Communion  (Episco- 
pal), Dr.  Muhienburg,  Sixth  Avenue  and 
Twentieth  Street;  yifth  Avenue  Freshy- 
tcrian  Churchy  Dr.  N.  L.  Piice,  comer  of 
Nineteenth  Street ;  French  Church,  Eylise 
du  St.  Esprit  (Protestant  Episcopal),  Dr. 
Verren,  Twenty-second  Street,  between 
Fifth  and  Sixth  Avenues ;  Church  of  the 
Annunciation  (Episcopal),  Dr.  Seabury, 
110  West  Fourteenth  Street,  between 
Sixth  and  Seventh  Avenues ;  Church  of 
the  Ascension  (Episcopal),  J.  C.  Smith, 
Fifth  Avenue,  corner  of  Tenth  Street ; 
Shaarai  Tq)hila  (Gates  of  Prayer),  He- 
brew, 1306  Broadway. 

The  Bible  House  is  a  conspicuous  edi- 
fice occupying  the  space  bounded  by 
Third  and  Fourth  Avenues,  and  Eighth 
and  Ninth  Streets.  It  has  a  street  front- 
age of  700  feet,  and  is  six  stories  high. 
The  principal  entrance,  on  Fourth  Avenue, 
has  four  columns,  surmounted  by  a  cor- 
nice. It  is  built  of  brick,  and  cost  $300,- 
000.  It  is  the  property  of  the  American 
Bible  Society,  and  here  all  the  operations 
of  that  important  organization  are  carried 
on.  Upward  of  500  operatives  are  em- 
ployed. 

Cemeterie s. — The  public  burying- 
grounds  in  the  city  and  suburbs  of  New 
York  number  thirteen.  Of  these  the 
cemeteries  of  Greenwood^  V/oodlawn,  and 
Cypress  Hills,  are  best  worth  the  stran- 
ger's attention.     (See  Greenwood.) 

Markets. — The  market-places  of  New 
York  have  little  to  commend  them  either 
to  stranger  or  citizen.  They  are  gener- 
ally dirty  and  ill  kept,  affording  a  marked 
contrast  to  similar  structures  in  Phila- 
delphia, New  Orleans,  and  other  cities. 
The  first  market-house  of  which  we  have 
any  authentic  record  was  built  in  1738, 
and  stood  in  the  centre  of  Broadway,  op- 
posite Liberty,  then  Crown  Street.  It 
was  156  feet  long  and  23  feet  3^  inches 
in  width.  It  stood  thirty-three  years, 
and  being  indicted  as  a  public  nuisance, 
was  demolished  in  1771.  The  second 
market  building,  erected  at  the  southeast 
corner  of  Broadway  and  Maiden  Lane 
{Maar/dc  Faatge  of  the  Dutch),  was  do- 


New  York  City.] 


NEW   YORK. 


[New  Youk  City. 


Btroyed  by  the  great  fire  in  1770.     The 
I      markets  now  held  are  eleven  in  number, 
'      and  are  under  the  charge  of  an  odicer 
known  as  the  Superintendent  of  Markets. 
f  Fulton  Market  is  the  most  frequented 

and  best  known.  It  is  on  Front  Street, 
I  facing  the  East  River,  and  bounded  by 
Beekuian  and  Fulton  Streets.  It  was 
erected  in  1821,  and  cost  $220,000,  a  large 
sum  in  those  days.  At  certain  hours  of 
the  day  this  market  presents  a  character- 
istic phase  of  New  York  life. 

Washington  Market,  at  the  foot  of 
Vesey  and  Washington  Streets,  nearly 
parallel  with  Fulton  Market,  on  the  oppo- 
site or  west  side  of  the  city,  is  another 
of  the  old  city  markets. 

Centre  Market,  extending  tlirough 
Centre  Street  fi'om  Graud  to  Broome 
Streets,  is  a  more  recent  and  better  plan- 
ned structure  than  those  mentioned.  It 
is  a  substantial  brick  building  of  two 
stories,  the  upper  floors  being  used  as 
armories  and  drill-rooms  by  various  mili- 
tary companies. 

Jefferson  Market^  at  the  intersection  of 

Sixth  Avenue  and  Greenwich  Avenue,  and 

Tompkins  Market,  on  Third  Avenue, 

south  of  the  Cooper  Institute,  are  smaller 

but  more  recent  structures. 

Banks,  etc. — There  are  93  banks  in 
New  York,  divided  as  follows :  National 
Banks,  58  ;  State  Banks,  12  ;  and  Savings 
Banks,  23.  Of  bankers,  private  banking 
houses,  and  money  brokers,  there  are 
upward  of  300.  Many  of  the  banks 
are  conspicuous  for  their  architectural 
effect,  elegance  rather  tlian  solidity  being 
sought  for  in  their  construction.  The 
best  specimens  of  banking-house  archi- 
tecture will  be  found  in  Wall  Street, 
though  in  the  constant  up-town  movement 
going-  on,  many  will  be  found  in  Broad- 
way, Nassau  Street,  and  the  Bowery. 

The  American  Exchange  Bank  is  a  fine 
building  of  Caen  stone,  at  the  corner  of 
Broa,dway  and  Liberty  Street.  The  Bank 
of  the  jRepublic  is  an  imposing  edifice  of 
brovfn-stone  at  the  corner  of  Wall  and 
Broadway.  It  cost  $175,000.  The  Me- 
tropolitan, also  of  brown-stone,  is  at  the 
intersection  of  Pine  Street  with  Broad- 
way. In  Wall  Street,  the  Bank  of  New 
York,  corner  of  William  Street,  and  Bank 
of  America,  No.  46,  arc  prominent  struc- 
tures.    On  the  site  of  the  Bank  of  JSfew 


York  once  stood  a  statue  of  William 
Pitt.  The  Bank  of  Commerce,  in  Nassau 
Street,  lacing  the  Post-Office  building,  is 
one  of  the  most  substantial  bauking 
houses  in  the  city. 

Among  the  private  banking  houses 
those  of  Messrs,  Brown  Brothers,  No,  59 
Wall  Street,  and  those  of  Messrs.  Duncan, 
Sherman  &  Co.,  and  Jay  Cooke  &  Co.,  in 
Nassau  Street,  between  Pine  and  Wall 
Streets,  are  tlie  most  noteworthy.  The 
bank  Clearing  Honse  is  at  48  Wall  Street, 
and  the  Gold  Exchange  at  14  Broad, 
The  new  marble  building  lately  erected 
on  Broad  Street,  south  of  Wall  Street, 
adjoining  the  Gold  Exchange,  and  known 
as  the  Netv  York  Stock  Exchange,  presents 
a  characteristic  feature  of  metropolitan 
life.  In  the  upper  part  of  this  building 
are  located  the  Brokers  Board  and  Pe- 
troleum Board  Rooms,  etc. 

Newspaper  Offices,  etc. — The  leading 
daily  newspapers  of  New  York  are  pub- 
lished and  issued  from  establishments 
which  have  no  rivals  for  extent  or  com- 
pleteness of  detail  on  this  continent,  or, 
indeed,  in  the  world.  The  office  of  The 
Times,  iu  Printing  House  Square,  occupies 
the  site  of  Dr.  Spring's  old  Brick  Church, 
at  the  end  of  Park  Row,  corner  of  Nassau 
Street,  and  facing  the  City  Hall.  It  was 
first  occupied  May  1,  1858.  It  is  a  fine 
structure,  of  Nova  Scotia  stone,  five  stories 
high,  and  entirely  fire-proof.  Tl^.e  vaults 
underneath  this  building,  where  the  daily 
and  weekly  issues  of  the  Times  are  print- 
ed, are  well  worthy  a  visit. 

The  Herald  estalolishment  now  occu- 
pies the  magnificent  ncAv  marble  building 
just  erected  on  the  site  of  Baruum's  Mu- 
seum, destroj'Cd  by  fire  July  13,  1865. 
This  site,  now  ome  of  the  most  valuable 
in  the  city,  formed,  less  than  one  hundred 
years  ago,  part  of  "  Shoemakers'  Pasture," 
for  many  years  known,  far  and  wide,  ii3 
"Spring  Garden."  Mr,  Elkin's  public 
house,  known  in  ante-revolutionary  times 
as  "Hampden  Eall,"  and  used  as  head- 
quarters by  "the  Sons  of  Liberty,"  stood 
on  the  precise  spot  where  the  Museum 
afterward  flourished. 

The  Tribune,  World,  Mercury,  Round 
Table,  Nation,  News,  Exjyress,  and  other 
daily  and  weekly  papers  are  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  these  offices.  Strangers 
who  would  carry  away  with  them  a  cor- 

21 


New  York  City.] 


NEW   YOr.K. 


[New  York  City. 


rect  impression  of  the  coinmercial,  politi- 
cal, and  social  influences  of  New  York,  as 
a  measure  of  tlie  national  protrress  and 
growtli,  f^hould  not  fail  to  visit  one  or 
more  of  these  establishments. 

LANDMARKS  OF  THE  PAST. 

Amonp:  the  few  historical  localities  and 
objects  of  interest  which  the  rapid  groAvth 
of  New  York,  and  the  constant  change 
incident  to  war,  increase  in  population 
and  trade,  have  left  for  the  contemplation 
of  tlie  citizen  and  stranger,  the  following 
will  be  found  best  worthy  attention. 

Broadway,  as  the  representative  street 
and  leading  thoroughfare  of  the  past,  as 
well  as  of  the  present  city,  furnishes  the 
best  field  for  observation,  and  the  Battery 
the  best  point  from  which  to  start  on  our 
antiquarian  tour. 

Bowling  Green  in  the  times  of  the 
Dutch  was  the  court  end  of  the  town ; 
that  part  of  Broadway  then  called  the 
"Heere  Straas"  in  contradistinction  to 
the  Heere  Wegh,  which  was  the  name 
of  the  highway  beyond  the  walls,  was  al- 
ready a  popular  part  of  New  Amsterdam, 
and  no  doubt  presented  the  most  pleasing 
features  of  the  town.  On  the  opposite  or 
east  side  the  street  for  a  short  distance, 
measured  by  its  present  length,  seems  to 
have  been  inhabited  by  the  liumbler  and 
poorest  classes,  being  mainly  composed 
of  hovels  and  small  shanties.  In  front 
(south)  of  the  Green,  was  the  Parade, 
whicli  also  served  as  the  market-place. 
The  Bowling  Green  was  first  enclosed  in 
1732.  The  row  of  six  buildings  lacing 
the  Green  on  the  south,  and  extending 
from  State  to  "Whitehall  Streets,  cover  the 
site  of  the  old  Butch  and  English  forts. 
The  old  Government  House,  which  served 
as  the  Custom  House  subsequent  to  IVOO, 
stood  liere  until  1815,  when  it  was  taken 
down  to  make  room  for  the  present  build- 
ings, which  at  that  date  were  considered 
the  finest  private  residences  in  the  city. 
The  Kennedy  House,  No.  1  Broadway, 
named  after  the  Hon.  Archibald  Kennedy, 
then  collector  of  the  port,  afterward  Earl 
of  Casclis  of  the  Scotch  peerage,  who 
built  it  in  IVCO,  is  one  of  the  most  inter- 
esting relics  now  left  standing.  H  occu- 
pies the  site  of  the  "  Kocks  Tavern,"  built 
by  Peter  Kocks,  an  officer  in  the  Dutch 
service  and  an  active  leader  in  the  Indian 
22 


war  of  1643.  In  colonial  times  it  was 
the  heart  of  the  highest  fashion  in  the 
colony,  having  been  successively  the  resi- 
dence and  headquarteis  of  Lords  Corn- 
wallis  and  Howe,  Gen.  (Sir  Henry)  Clinton, 
and  Gen.  Washington.  Arnold  occupied 
No.  5  Broadway,  the  site  now  (18G6)  oc- 
cupied by  Messrs.  Livingston  and  others 
for  offices,  and  in  Clinton's  headquarters 
his  treasonable  projects  were  concerted. 
Fulton  died  in  a  room  in  the  present 
Washington  Hotel,  then  No.  1  Market- 
field  Street.  It  was  then  (1815)  used  as 
a  boarding-house,  and  was  kept  by  a  Mrs. 
Avery.  Talleyrand  passed  some  time 
under  this  roof,  and  it  has  been  succes- 
sively occupied  by  Prime,  the  banker, 
Mayor  Mickle,  and  other  eminent  citizens. 
Since  1849,  it  has  been  occupied  as  a 
hotel,  first  by  Jonas  Bartlett,  and  subse- 
quently, in  1862,  by  Mr.  E.  Merrill,  who 
is  the  present  lessee. 

The  freight-shed  just  north  of  the  Ken- 
nedy House  stands  on  the  spot  occupied 
during  colonial  times  by  the  "  Burns 
Coffee-House,"  and  upon  or  near  the  site 
of  the  Dutch  Tavern  of  Burgomaster  Mar- 
tin Crigier.  Subsequently  (1763)  it  was 
known  as  the  "  King's  Arms."  In  1765 
Gen.  Gage  held  his  headquarters  here. 
During  tlie  British  possession  of  the  city 
the  traitor  Arnold  lodged  here.  It  served 
in  turn  as  boarding-house,  tavern,  and  beer 
garden,  being  last  known  as  the  Atlantic 
Garden,  when  it  was  numbered  11  Broad- 
way. Previous  to  the  present  century, 
Cliancellor  Livingston  resided  at  No.  5  in 
this  block. 

On  the  southerly  corner  of  Morris 
Street  stood  the  residence  or  parsonage 
of  the  Dominie  Mcgapolensis.  This  after- 
ward became  the  property  of  Balthasar 
Bayard,  kinsman  of  Governor  Stuyvesant, 
who  erected  a  brewery  on  the  premises, 
near  the  river  shore,  the  access  to  which 
was  by  a  lane  on  the  present  line  of  Mor- 
ris Street.  North  of  and  adjoining  Mor- 
ris Street  was  the  old  Dutch  burial-ground, 
the  first  established  on  the  island.  It 
extended  along  Broadway  between  100 
and  200  feet.  Above  Morris  Street,  little 
is  known  of  the  appearance  of  Broadway 
during  the  colonial  times,  the  fire  of  1776 
having  swept  every  vestige  of  a  landmark 
away.  Oyster  Pasty  Alley — now  Ex- 
change  place — Avest  of  Broadway,  was 


New  York  City.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[New  York  City. 


originally  an  obscure  path  loading  to  a 
small  redoubt  connected  with  the  city 
fortifications.  The  Congress  Hall,  or 
Town  Hall,  which  also  inehided  the  Law 
CoHrts  and  Prison,  stood  at  the  corner  of 
Wall  and  Nassau  Streets,  the  site  of  the 
present  United  States  Treasury.  Here 
Washington  was  inaugurated  the  first 
President,  April,  1789.  Washington's 
farewell  interview  with  his  officers  took 
place  at  France's  Tavern,  corner  of  Pearl 
and  Broad  Streets,  long  since  removed. 

Where  the  Mechanics'  Bank  now 
stands,  south  side  of  Wall  Street,  be- 
tween Broad  and  William  Streets,  Hamil- 
ton wrote  "  The  Federalist."  Tammany 
Hall,  in  Nassau  Street,  opposite  the  City 
Hall,  and  near  the  present  Tribune  office, 
covers  the  spot  where  Leisler  and  Mil- 
bourne  were  killed,  May  16,  1661.  It 
formed  the  boundary  of  what  was  then 
known  as  Beekman's  Swamp. 

The  Old  Dutch  Church  in  Nassau  Street, 
is  an  object  of  much  interest.  Until  with- 
in a  few  years  past  adjoining  the  old 
church  in  Liberty  Street,  stood  the  Sugar- 
House  Prison.  It  was  founded  in  1689, 
and  occupied  for  the  purpose  of  sugar 
refining  till  1777,  when  Lord  Howe  used 
it  as  a  place  of  confinement  for  American 
prisoners.  Wallabout  Bay,  Long  Island, 
now  vnthin  the  corporate  limits  of  Brook- 
lyn, was  used  for  a  similar  purpose  about 
the  same  time,  but  we  must  not  travel  so 
far  now.     ' 

Washington  Irving's  birthplace  stood 
in  William  Street,  between  John  and 
Fulton  Streets.  The  site  is  now  covered 
by  wholesale  stores,  but  can  be  readily 
found  by  the  enterprising  or  curious. 
The  gentle,  genial  author  of  the  "  Sketch- 
Book"  has  fou»d  a  more  fitting  resting- 
place  hard  by  his  own  Sleepy  Hollow. 
South  of  St.  Mark's  Church,  between 
Second  and  Third  Avenues,  stood  Gov- 
ernor Stuyvesant's  house,  on  what  was 
then  his  "  Bowerie  Farm."  It  was  pulled 
down — when  is  not  accurately  known. 
The  Stuyvesant  pear-tree  still  stands  on 
the  corner  of  Third  Avenue  and  Thirteenth 
Street,  surrounded  by  an  iron  railing.  It 
was  imported  from  Holland  in  1647,  and 
planted  in  what  was  then  the  governor's 
garden.  It  is  2'20  years  old.  A  slab 
bearing  an  appropriate  inscription  sur- 
mounts a  vault  in  the  east  wall  of  St. 


Mark's  Church,  in  which  are  preserved 
all  that  remains,  except  the  memory  of 
his  good  deeds,  of  the  old  governor. 

The  old  Walton  House,  No.  ',VI6  Pearl 
Street,  erected  by  Walton,  in  1754; 
Washington  City  Mansion,  at  the  north- 
ern angle  of  Franklin  Square,  corner  of 
Dover  and  Pearl  Streets,  and  the  Rich- 
mond Hill  House,  a  wooden  building,  of 
great  celebrity,  which  stood  at  the  inter- 
section of  Varick  and  Charlton  Streets, 
have  long  since  passed  away.  Cob))ett's 
seed-store  was  at  No.  62  Fulton  Street, 
and  Grant  Thorburn's— in  its  time,  one 
of  the  most  nctable  objects  in  the  city — 
stood  on  Liberty,  between  Broadway  and 
Nassau,  in  a  building  previously  occupied 
by  the  Society  of  Friends  as  a  meeting- 
house. 

In  Bcekman  St.,  near  Nassau,  stood  the 
brick  meeting-house  in  which  Whitefield 
preached.  It  was  built  in  1764,  on  what 
was  then  open  fields.  At  the  present 
rate  of  metropolitan  growth  Manhattan 
Island  will  soon  not  have  an  open  field 
left. 

First-class  Business  Houses. — New 
York,  particularly  its  leading  business 
thoroughfares,  Broadway,  Canal  Street, 
and  the  Bowery,  are  famous  for  the  fine 
stores  they  contain.  The  following  will 
best  repay  a  visit : 

JBanking  Houses. — Duncan,  Sherman  & 
Co.,  corner  Pine  and  Nassau,  and  Brown 
Brothers,  in  Wall  Street.  Travellers  de- 
siring letters  of  credit,  foreign  or  domestic 
exchange,  will  find  these  desirable  houses 
to  deal  with. 

Newspapers. — The  magnificent  print- 
ing establishments  of  the  New  York 
Herald,  the  Times,  and  the  Tribune,  are 
well  w^orth  seeing. 

Publishing  Houses.  —  Those  of  the 
Messrs.  Appleton,  443  and  445  Broadway, 
and  the  extensive  establishment  of  the 
Harpers  in  Franklin  Square,  will  each  well 
reward  a  visit. 

Jewellers,  etc. — The  establishments  of 
Tiffany  &  Co.,  550  Broadway,  and  of 
Ball,  Black  k  Co.,  corner  of  Broadway 
and  Prince  Street,  are  the  finest  and 
most  extensive  of  their  kind  in  the  coun- 
try. 

Dry  Goods. — The  great  dry  goods  pal- 
aces of  A.  T.  Stewart  &  Co.,  Broadway, 
of  Lord  k  Taylor,   461  Broadway,  and 

23 


New  York  City.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[Brooklyn. 


259  Grand  Street;  and  of  H.  B.  Clafliu  & 
Co.,  140  Church  Street,  should  not  be 
omitted  by  those  who  would  judge  of  the 
city's  trade. 

Piano-foHes. — Steinway  &  Sons,  Vl  E. 
Fourteenth  Street. 

Rnhher  fabrics.— The  N.  Y.  Belting 
and  Packing  Co.,  37  and  38  Park  Row. 

F'ire  Insurance. — The  Home  Insurance 
Compan}',  135  Broadway,  and  the  North 
American,  114  Broadway,  arc  among  the 
oldest  and  most  reliable  companies  in 
New  York. 

Clothinrj.—h.  T.  Browncll,  503  Broad- 
way, has  one  of  the  choicest  stocks  of 
ready-made  clothing  in  the  city.  Mr.  D. 
Russell,  at  835  Broadway,  corner  of 
Thirteenth  Street,  has  the  latest  fashions 
for  gentlemen's  custom-work. 

Gentlcmen''s  FurnisMng,  etc.  —  Mr. 
Union  Adams,  at  637  Broadway,  keeps 
the  largest  and  best-selected  stock  in  the 
city.  His  goods  are  fashionable,  and  of 
the  best  quality. 

Landscape  and  Marine  Glasses  for 
travellers. — The  best  assortment  of  a  first- 
rate  quality  are  to  be  found  at  Semmons, 
6694"  Broadway,  under  the  Southern  (late 
Lafarge)  Hotel. 

furniture  and  HonseTceeping  Articles.— 
H.  H.  Casey  (late  J.  &  C.  Berrian),  601 
Broadway. 

Art  Materials  and  Picture  Galleries. — 
Bendann  Bros,  (photographers).  Fifth  Av- 
enue, corner  Seventeenth  Street ;  (loupil 
&  Co.  (M.  Knocdlcr,  successor),  Broad- 
way and  Ninth  Street ;  Schaus,  749  Broad- 
way. 

Billiard  Tables. — Phelan  &;  Collender, 
63-69  Crosby  Street. 

IRneral  Waters. — Nothing  more  grate- 
ful during  the  summer  months  than 
mineral  waters,  carefully  prepared  and 
judiciously  used.  J)ela/otcr\'i,  in  "Wall 
Street  ])elow  Broad,  and  Hanbury  Smith's 
establishment,  "  the  Spa,"  in  Broadway, 
above  Cracc  Churcli,  are  among  the 
largest  and  best  establishments  of  the 
kind  in  the  city. 

Among  the  most  prominent  and  note- 
worthy ol)jccts  on  Broadway  are  the  ex- 
tensive clothing  and  furnishing  houses  of 
Messrs.  Brooks  Brothers,  and  Devlin  & 
Co.,  and  the  extensive  China-ware  estab- 
lishment of  Messrs.  ilaughwout,  at  the 
N.  E.  comer  of  Broome  Street. 
24 


The  private  residences  on  Fifth  Av- 
enue, Fourteenth  Street,  Madison  Square, 
and  Madison  and  Lexington  Avenues, 
should  be  seen  by  the  stranger  in  New 
York.  If  time  permit,  a  walk  or  rfde 
through  one  or  more  of  these  fine  prom- 
enades aff^brds  a  pleasing  and  appropri- 
ate contrast  to  the  visitor's  Broadway  ex 
perience. 

BROOKLYN. 

Hotels. — The  Pierrepont  House  is  a 
spacious,  well-kept  house  on  the  Heights ; 
the  Mansion  House,  in  Hicks  Street. 

Brooklyn,  situated  immediately  opposite 
New  York,  and  accessible  at  all  times 
by  ferry,  merits  the  attention  of  the  trav- 
eller, both  on  account  of  its  historical 
associations,  the  many  fine  buildings 
which  it  possesses,  and  its  commercial 
importance.  By  reason  of  its  proximity  to 
New  York,  and  the  intimate  relations  as 
regards  population  and  trade  existing 
between  it  and  the  metropolis,  it  is  pop- 
ularly regarded  as  forming  a  part  of  the 
whole.  It  is  the  seat  of  justice  of  Kings 
County,  N.  Y.,  and  is  situated  at  the 
w^est  end  of  Long  Island.  It  is  divided 
from  New  York  by  a  strait  called  the 
East  River,  which  is  crossed  by  numer- 
ous lines  of  ferries  afibrding  constant 
communication  between  the  two  cities. 
Brooklyn,  supposed  to  be  derived  from 
the  Dutch  BrnicMen  (broken-h^nd),  was 
first  settled  in  1625,  near  Wallabout 
Bay.  This  locality  became  possessed  of 
a  melancholy  interest,  during  the  war 
of  the  Revolution ,  as  the  place  where  were 
stati(nied  the  English  prison-ships,  in 
which  many  thousands  of  Americans 
perished  from  close  confinement  and  ill 
treatment.  The  battle  of  Long  Island 
was  fought  near  Brooklyn,  August  22, 
1776.  The  first  deed  for  land  within  the 
limits  of  the  city  was  granted  1639.  It 
was  incorporated  as  a  township  April, 
1806,  and  as  a  city  April,  1834.  Brook- 
lyn, Wi'liamsburgh,  and  Bushwick  were 
incorporated  in  one  government  in  Jan- 
uary, 1855,  since  which  time,  owing  to  its 
increased  facilities  for  trade  and  manu- 
factures, and  the  large  number  from  New 
York  seeking  residence  there,  it  has  rap- 
idly increased  in  size  and  importance. 
The  population,  which  in  1850  was  less 


Brooklyn.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[BUOOKLYN. 


tTian  100,000,  had  in  the  snccoedniEi: 
decade  increased  to  206,661,  and  is  now 
estimated  at  350,000.  The  city  extends 
from  Newtown  Creek,  including  Green- 
point,  to  the  boundary  below  Greenwood 
Cemetery,  a  distance  of  74-  miles,  and 
nearly  10  miles  following  the  low-water 
line.  Brooklyn  proper  is  designated  as 
the  Western  District  (W.  D.),'and  Wil- 
liamsburgh,  Greenpoint,  and  Bushwick 
as  the  Eastern  District  (E.  D.).  South 
Brooklyn  and  East  New  York  are  outly- 
ing portions  of  the  city,  rapidly  becoming 
populous.  The  city  is  in  many  parts  ele- 
gantly built,  and  the  bold  position  on  the 
Heights,  looking  directly  down  upon  the 
river  and  bav,  forms  a  charming  site  for 
a  summer  abode.  Some  of  the  avenues 
are  wide,  delightfully  shaded,  and 
lined  with  cottage  residences  It  is  di- 
vided into  20  wards,  and  governed  by  a 
mayor  and  board  of  aldermen. 

Among  the  principal  objects  of  interest 
in  and  around  Brooklyn  are  Greenwood 
Cemetery,  Washington  and  Prospect 
Parks,  the  Navy  Yard  and  Wallabout 
Bay,  the  Atlantic  Docks,  City  Hall  and 
Court-House,  Plymouth  Church,  and  sev- 
eral other  of  the  church  edifices,  with 
which  the  city  abounds. 

Places  of  Amusement,  etc. — The 
Academy  of  Ifusic  is  in  Montague  Street, 
nearly  opposite  the  Post-Office.  It  cost 
$125,000,  and  has  sittings  for  nearly  3,000 
persons. 

Fark  Theatre,  on  Fulton  Street,  op- 
posite City  Hall. 

Ilooleifs  Optra  House,  Court  Street, 
corner  of  Remsen  Street  (negro  min- 
strelsy, etc.). 

Trenor^s  JVashinjton  Hall,  corner 
South  Seventh  and  Fourth  Streets. 

The  Brooklyn  Athenoium,  corner  of 
Atlantic  and  Clinton  Streets,  in  South 
Brooklyn,  is  a  fine  edifice  of  brick,  with 
brov/n-stone  facings.  It  has  an  admirable 
library  (Mercantile),  reading-rooms,  and 
a  spacious  lecture  or  concert  hall. 

The  i?/tr?fm,  containing  the  city  library 
and  a  good  lecture-room,  is  at  the  corner 
of  Washington  and  Concord  Streets. 

The  Brooklyn  Conservatory  of  Music, 
130  Clinton  Street,  and  the  CoUegiate  and 
Polytechnic  Institute,  in  Livingston  Street, 
are  among  the  foremost  educational  in- 
stitutions of  the  city. 


Pauks,  etc. — These,  together  with  the 
well-shaded  avenues  ancl  streets  in  the 
southwest  quarter,  form  an  attractive 
feature  of  the  city.  The  followhig  are 
the  most  notewortliy  and  j)opiilar  resorts : 

Wasldngton  Fark  (Fort  (ireene)  oc- 
cupies an  elevated  plateau  northeast  of 
the  City  Hall.  During  the  war  of  the 
Revolution  it  was  the  site  of  extensive 
fortifications,  of  which  the  ruins  of  Fort 
Greene  are  now  all  that  remain.  It  is 
pleasantly  shaded,  and  commands  an  ex- 
tensive view. 

Frospect  Park  is  the  name  very  appro- 
priately given  to  a  new  public  ground 
laid  out  with  great  liberality  and  taste  in 
the  southwest  portion  of  the  city.  But 
little  has  yet  been  done,  beyond  la}ing 
off  the  site,  but  the  work  is  in  active 
progress,  and  it  bids  fair  at  no  very 
distant  day  to  rival  the  fimous  Central 
of  New  York.  Lefferfs  Park,  betv/een 
Greenpoint  and  De  Kalb  Avenues,  is  a 
smaller,  though  much  frequented  ground. 
South  Brooklyn  has  numerous  beautiful 
drives  and  walks.  Clinton  Avenue  and 
the  upper  part  of  Pacific  and  Bergen 
Streets  contain  some  of  the  finest  private 
residences.  Visitors  with  sufficieut  time 
at  their  disposal  will  find  a  pleasant  trip 
to  the  city  (Nassau)  Water  Works,  facing 
Prospect  Park,  near  the  main  entrance. 

Cemeteries. —  Greenwood  Cemetery  is 
in  the  south  part  of  Brooklyn,  at  Gowanus, 
about  three  miles  from  Fulton  ferry  land- 
ing. Access  is  had  by  the  cars,  which  pass 
the  cemetery  gates  every  fifteen  minutes 
throughout  the  day.  Free  entrance  is  al- 
lowed to  persons  on  foot  during  week-days, 
but  on  the  Sabbath  none  but  the  proprie- 
tors of  lots  and  their  families,  and  persons 
v/ith  them,  are  admitted ;  others  than 
proprietors  can  obtain  a  permit  for  car- 
riages on  week-days.  Oflice,  30  Broad- 
way, New  York.  This  cemetery  was  incor- 
porated in  1838,  and  contains  242  acres 
of  ground,  about  one-half  of  which  is 
covered  with  wood  of  a  natural  growth. 
It  originally  contained  1'72  acres,  but  re- 
cently 70  more  have  been  added  by  pur- 
chase, and  brought  within  the  enclosure. 
These  grounds  have  a  varied  sur{\iee  of 
hills,  valleys,  and  plains.  The  elevations 
afford  extensive  views ;  that  from  Ocean 
Hill,  near  the  western  line,  presents 
wide  range  of  the  ocean,  with  a  port" 


Brooklyn.] 


NEW  YOrxK. 


[Brooklyn. 


of  Long  Island.  Battle  Hill,  in  tlie  north- 
west, commands  an  extensive  view  of  the 
cities  of  Brooklyn  and  New  York,  the 
Hudson  River,  the  noble  bay,  and  of 
New  Jersey  and  Staten  Island.  From 
the  other  elevated  grounds  in  the  Cem- 
etery there  are  also  fine  prospects. 

Greenwood  is  traversed  by  winding  ave- 
nues and  paths,  twenty  miles  in  extent, 
which  aiTord  visitors  with  sufficient  time 
at  their  disposal  an  opportunity  of  seeing 
every  part  of  this  extensive  cemetery. 
Several  of  the  monuments,  original  in 
their  design,  are  very  beautiiful,  and  can- 
not fail  to  attract  the  notice  of  strangers. 
Those  to  the  memory  of  Miss  Cauda,  of 
the  Inelian  Prince.^s  Dolmmme,  and  the 
"  mad  poet,"  McDonald  Clark,  near  the 
Sylvan  Water,  arc  admirable;  as  also 
are  the  memorials  to  the  Pilots  and  to 
the  Firemen.  The  proceeds  arising  from 
the  sale  of  lots  are  devoted  to  tlie  preser- 
vation, improvement,  and  embellishment 
of  the  cemetery.  Visitors,  by  keeping 
the  main  avenue,  called  The  Tour,  as  in- 
dicated by  guide-hoarch,  will  obtain  the 
best  general  vie.w  of  the  cemetery,  and 
will  be  able  to  regain  the  entrance  with- 
out difficulty.  Unless  this  caution  be 
observed,  they  may  find  themselves  at  a 
loss  to  discover  their  way  out.  To  the 
east  of  Greenwood,  distant  about  four 
miles,  are  the  cemeteries  of  the  Ever- 
greens and  Cypress  UlUa. 

FciJLic  Buildings. — The  United  States 
Navy  Yard  should  next  be  visited. 
It  occupies  nearly  forty  acres  of  ground 
upon  the  south  side  of  Wallabout  Bay, 
in  the  northeast  fjuarter  of  the  city. 
The  proi)crty  at  this  yard  is  valued  at 
$25,000,000.  The  Umted  States  Naval 
Lyceum,  in  the  Navy  Yard,  is  a  literary 
institution,  formed  in  1833  by  officers  of 
the  navy  connected  with  the  port.  It  con- 
tains a  fine  colled  ion  of  curiosities,  and 
mineralogical  and  geological  cabinets. 
A  Dry  JJocIc  has  been  constrjiieted  here, 
at  a  cost  of  about  $1,000,000.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  Wallabout,  half  a 
mile  caot  of  Ih.o  Navy  Yard,  is  the  I^fa- 
rine  llo'-.pitnl,  a  fine  l)uilding,  erected  on 
a  commanding  situation,  and  surrounded 
by  \inward  of  thirty  acres  of  well-cul- 
tivated ground. 

At  the   Wallahoiit  were  stationed  the 
Jersey  and   other    prison-ships    of  the 
26    ,   .    - 


English  during  the  Revolutionary  War,  in 
which  it  is  said  11,500  American  prison- 
ers perished  from  bad  air  and  ill-treat- 
ment. In  1808  the  bones  of  the  suffer- 
ers, wiiich  had  been  washed  out  from  the 
bank  v.here  they  had  been  slightly  buried, 
were  collected,  and  deposited  in  13  cof- 
fins, inscribed  with  the  names  of  the  13 
original  States,  and  placed  in  a  vault 
beneath  a  wooden  building  erected  for 
the  purpose  in  Hudson  Avenue,  opposite 
to  Front  Street,  near  the  Navy  Yard. 

The  Atlantic  Dock;  about  a  mile  be- 
low the  South  Ferry,  Brooklyn,  is  a  very 
extensive  work,  and  worthy  the  attention 
of  strangers.  The  best  approach  from 
New  York  is  by  the  Hamilton  Avenue 
Ferry.  The  company  was  incorporated 
in  May,  1840,  with  a  capital  of  $1,000,000. 
The  basin  within  the  piers  contains  42^ 
acres,  with  sufficient  depth  of  water  for 
the  largest  ships.  The  piers  are  of  solid 
granite.  Many  of  the  warehouses  and 
buildings  in  this  neighborhood  are  of 
enormous  size  and  capacity. 

The  City  Hall,  at  the  junction  of  Court 
and  Fulton  Streets,  is  one  mile  distant 
from  the  ferry.  It  is  a  handsome  build- 
ing in  the  Doric  style,  and  is  built  of 
white  marble  from  the  Vrestchester 
quarries.  Its  length  is  162  feet,  and  its 
height  to  the  top  of  the  cupola  is  353 
feet.     Cost,  $200,000. 

The  County  Court  House,  fronting  on 
Fulton  Street,  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  the  City  Hall,  is  an  imposing  edifice, 
though  seen  to  poor  advantage.  It  13 
140  foet  wide,  and  extends  315  feet  back 
to  Livingston  Street.  It  is  in  the  Co- 
rinthian style  of  architecture,  and  cost 
$543,000. 

Kings  County  Jail  is  in  Raymond 
Street.  It  is  a  heavy-looking,  castellated 
Gothic  edifice  of  red  sandstone.  The 
State  Arsenal  and  City  Hospital  are  also 
in  the  vicinity. 

Tlji  J\>st-0{licc  is  in  Montague  Street, 
opposite  the  City  Hall. 

CiiURcnKS. — Brooklyn  has  been  called 
the  "  City  of  Churches,"  In.  the  number 
and  elegance  of  its  church  edifices  it  sur- 
passes  any  other  city  in  the  Union. 
There  are  124  churches  in  the  western 
and  upward  of  50  in  the  eastern  (AVil- 
liamsburgh)  district  of  the  city.  Among 
the  most  costly  and   imposing  are  the 


Brooklyn,] 


NEW  YORK. 


[BUOOKLYN. 


Church  of  the  Holy  Trimly^  corner  Mon- 
tague and  Clinton  Streets  (Episcopal). 
The  Church  of  the  Pilgrims,  Congre- 
gational (Rev.  R.  S.  Storrs),  corner  Henry 
and  Rem  sen  Streets,  in  the  early  Norman 
style,  was  erected  in  1845.  The  Church 
of  the  Saviour,  Picrrepont  Street,  corner 
of  Monroe  Place  (Unitarian).  Phpnouth 
Church  (Rev.  Henry  Ward  Beecher)  is 
in  Orange,  between  Hicks  and  Henry 
Streets.  A  splendid  organ,  the  second 
largest  in  the  United  States,  was  added 
in  1866.  It  contains  3,442  pipes,  and 
cost  $25,000.  This  church  has  sittings  for 
2,500  persons.  Owing  to  the  size  of  the 
congregation  and  the  preacher's  popular- 
ity, it  is  difficult  for  strangers  to  obtain  a 
scat.  Lafayette  Avenue  Churchy  corner  Ox- 
ford Street  (Presbyterian),  Rev.  Dr.  Theo- 
dore L.  Cuyler ;  Grace  Church,  Brook- 
lyn Heights  (Epis.),  Rev.  E.  A.  Hoffman; 
Grace  Church,  Conselyea  Street,  E.  D., 
Rev.  Alvah  Guion ;  Christ  Church,  Clin- 
ton Street,  Dr.  Canfield  ;  First  Reformed 
Dutch  Churc\  Joralemon  Street,  Rev. 
Dr.  Willets  ;  First  Presbyterian  Church, 
Henry,  near  Clark  Street,  Rev.  C.  S.  Rob- 
inson ;  Dutch  Reformed  Church,  on  the 
Heights,  Pierrepont  Street,  Rev.  James 
Eells,  D.  D. ;  St.  Ann's  Church,  Wash- 
ington, corner  Sands  Street,  Rev.  William 
H.  Mills ;  Second  Presbyterian  Church 
(0.  S.),  Clinton,  near  Fulton  Street,  Rev. 
Nat.  West. 

Charitable  Institutions. — The  Long 
Island  College  Hospital  is  a  noble  charity, 
liberally  endowed,  and  occupying  a  spa- 
cious edifice  located  on  Henry,  near  Pacific 
Street.  The  Graham  histitute,  for  the 
relief  of  respectable  indigent  females, 
occupies  a  prominent  and  spacious  edifice 
on  Washington  Avenue,  near  De  Kalb 
Avenue,  Tiie  City  Hospital,  organized 
1845,  is  in  Raymond  Street. 

Newspaper  Offices. — The  Brooklyn 
Eagle  is  issued  from  No.  30  Fulton  Street. 
The  Brooklyn  Union  office  is  on  Front, 
near  Fulton  Street.  These  papers  and 
the  Times,  on  South  Seventh  Street 
(E,  D. ),  are  all  issued  in  the  evening.  Der 
Frclschutz,  a  new  v/eekly,  is  published  in 
Scholes  Street  (E.  D.). 

Ferries. — From  Fulton  St.,  N,  Y.,  to 
Fulton  St.,  Brooklyn,  every  five  minutes. 

Wall  Street  Ferry. —WaW  Street,  N.  Y., 
to  Montague  Street,  Brooklyn. 


Soidh  Ferry. — From  Whitehall  Street, 
N.  Y.,  to  Atlantic  Street,  Brooklyn. 

Hamilton  Ferry. — Whitehall  Street, 
N.  Y.,  to  Hamilton  Avenue  and  Atlantic 
Docks,  Brooklyn. 

Cotharine  L'erry. — Catharine  Street, 
N.  Y.,  to  Main  Street,  Broolclyn. 

Jackson  Ferry. — From  Jackson  Street, 
N.  Y.,  to  Bridge  Street,  Brooklyn. 

To  Brooklyn,  E.  D.  {Williamshurgli), 
from  Peck  Slip,  Roosevelt  Street,  Crand 
Street,  and  Houston  Street,  N,  Y.,  cvci-y 
ten  minutes. 

Division  Avenue. — From  Grand  Street, 
N.  Y.,  to  South  Seventh  Street,  Brooklyn. 

Street  Railways.  —  From  Fulton 
Ferry :  Fulton  Avenue  and  Atlantic 
Avenue  lines,  to  Bedford  and  East 
New  York ;  Fulton  Avenue,  to  Prospect 
Park  and  Fiatbush  ;  Co^irt  Street  and 
Fifth  Avenue  lines,  to  Greenvrood  ;  Myrtle 
Avenue,  to  Williamsburgh  and  Green« 
point ;  Fhishiyig  Avenue,  to  the  Navy 
Yard  and  Greenpoint ;  De  Kalb  Avenue,  to 
Williamsburgh ;  Smith  Street,  etc.,  to  Co- 
ney Island.  From  S.  Seventh  St.,  E.  D. : 
Broadway,  to  East  New  York.  Trains  on 
the  Brooklyn  Central  Raihvay  leave  South 
Ferry  seven  times  daily  for  Jamaica,  11 
miles,  where  connection  is  made  with  the 
Long  Island  Railway  for  Greenport,  &c. 

Walks,  etc. — For  one  week,  embracing 
objects  best  worth  visiting  in  New  York 
and  Brooklyn.  (For  more  detailed  men- 
tion of  these  several  objects,  see  Index.) 

First  day. — Central  Park  and  Reser- 
voirs, extending  the  trip  via  Blooming- 
dale  Road,  to  the  north  end  of  the  island, 
visiting  the  Orphan  Asylum,  Lunatic 
Asylum,  High  Bridge,  and  the  Croton 
Aqueduct.  Second  day,  Washington's 
Headquarters,  Kennedy  House,  the  Cus- 
tom-House  and  Treasury  in  Vf  all  Street, 
and  Trinity  Church :  the  view  from  the 
tower  will  appropriately  close  this  day's 
journey.  If  time  permit,  the  City  Hall  and 
new  Court  House  maybe  visited.  Third 
day,  Greenwood  Cemetery,  Fort  Greene, 
and  if  not  too  late,  the  Navy  Yard,  Brook- 
lyn. Fourth  day,  the  Astor  Library, 
Cooper  Union,  Academy  of  Design,  and 
neighboring  parks,  Madison  and  Gram- 
ercy ;  at  night  the  Academy  of  Music, 
or  one  of  the  numerous  theatres.  Fifth 
day,  if  in  summer,  a  sail  dov/n  the  Bay, 
visiting  Staten   Island,   Fort    IIamilt(ui, 

27 


Harlem.] 


KEW  YOKK. 


[Staten  Island. 


Fort  Lafiiyette,  and  if  facilities  offer, 
Blackwclfs  and  Ward's  L^landt:,  Pcn- 
itentiary  buildin^rs  in  the  East  River, 
■will  most  agreeably  occupy  a  whole  day, 
Sixi'h  dajf,  a  walk  or  drive  through  Broad- 
way, visiting  the  leading  art-galleries  and 
stores,  Fifth  Avenue  and  the  Union  Club, 
the  University,  etc. 

The  Croton  Aqueduct^  by  means  of 
which  the  city  is  supplied  with  water 
constitutes  its  greatest  public  work.  The 
water  is  brought  from  Croton  Biver,  a 
distance  of  40  miles.  The  original  cost 
of  this  magnificent  work  was  over 
$13,000,000.  "The  Receiving  Reservoirs 
in  the  Central  Park,  and  the  great  Dis- 
tributing Reservoir  in  Fifth  Avenue,  be- 
tween Fortieth  and  Forly-second  Streets, 
are  well  worth  a  visit.  (See  Central 
Park.) 

High  Bridfje  is  a  noble  work,  conptructed 
for  the  passage  of  the  Croton  Aqueduct 
over  the  llarlem  River,  from  Westches- 
ter County  to  the  island  of  New  York. 
The  High  Bridge  may  be  pleasantly 
reached  by  the  Third  Avenue  cars  or  the 
Harlem  Railway  (Fouith  Avenue)  to 
Harlem,  and  thence  up  the  Harlem  River 
a  nnie  or  two  in  excursion  steamboats. 

The  Neio  Arsenal,  which  takes  the 
place  of  the  old  edifice  now  within  the 
Central  Park  grounds,  is  on  the  Seventh 
Avenue.  It  may  be  reached  by  the  Sixth 
Avenue  or  the  Broadway  Railroads. 

5f  as'Iem^  a  part  of  New  York,  is  situ- 
ated upon  the  Harlem  River,  at  the  north- 
ern end  of  the  island,  seven  miles  from 
the  City  Hall.  It  was  founded  l)y  tlie 
Dutch,  in  1G58.  Constant  communication 
with  the  city  by  the  Harlem  and  Third 
Avenue  Railroads.  Ijloomingdale  and 
M<(nhaUanviUe  are  at  the  north  end  of 
the  Island  of  New  York.  "  The  Grange," 
the  last  residence  of  the  lamented  Hamil- 
ton, was  located  at  Bloomingdale.  Bloom- 
ingdale  Road  is  a  popular  and  pleasant 
drive.  "  Jihn  Fark,''^  once  the  mansion 
of  the  Apthorp  family,  and  the  Lwmtic 
Asi/han,  arc  reached  by  this  road.  Jlan- 
liattanville  contains  tv.o  fiourishing  Cath- 
olic institutions,  fhc  Convcid  of  the  Socrcd 
Heart  and  the  Manhatian  College.  Clare- 
viont,  jiiHt  south  of  Maiihattanville,  is  a 
famous  resort  for  frequenteis  of  the 
Bloomingdale  Road.  It  was  once  the 
residence  of  Viscount  Courtney,  afterward 
28 


Earl  of  Devon,  and  later  of  Joseph  Bona- 
parte. Trinil}/  Cemetery,  near  by,  con- 
tains the  remains  of  Audubon  the  natu- 
ralist. 

H[o"t>oli;eii  and  l^'eolaa'^vlceEa, 
charming  rural  resorts  in  summer  time, 
are  across  the  Hudson  River,  on  the  New 
Jersey  shore.  Here  are  delightful  walks 
for  miles  along  the  margin  of  the  river, 
and  on  high  ground,  overlooking  the  bay 
and  city.  The  Ehjsian  Fields,  a  beauti- 
fully wooded  resort,  much  frequented  by 
sporting  and  picnic  parties,  are  reached 
by  street  car  or  foot-path,  half  a  mile 
from  the  ferry  landing.  At  Weehawken 
occurred  the  duel  between  General  Ham- 
ilton and  Colonel  Burr,  in  v.hich  the 
fonner  was  killed,  July  11,  1804.  The 
ground  is  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
below  the  Forty-second  Street  Ferry. 
North  Union  Hdl  and  Nevj  Durham  are 
scattered  villages  on  the  top  of  the  Pali- 
sades, connected  with  Hoboken  by  stage. 
At  Seaeaucus,  four  miles  west  of  Hoboken, 
on  the  Paterson,  N.  J.,  plai  k  road,  are 
the  race-course  of  the  Hudson  County 
Association,  and  the  training-stables  of 
Colonel  McDanicls. 

Slut*"!!  Islaxsd,  —  The  trip  to 
Staten  Island  affords  one  of  the  many 
pleasant  excursions  dally  made  during 
the  summer  months  in  the  vicinity  of 
New  York.  Nothing  can  be  more  enjoy- 
able than  a  sail  down  the  bay  to  any  of 
the  villages  and  landing's  of  Staten  Island : 
and  nothing  more  agreeable  than  the 
sight  of  its  many  suburban  villas,  or  of 
the  superb  views  ovir  land  and  sea  which 
its  high  grounds  command.  Brighton  is 
a  particularly  beautiful  little  village,  with 
good  hotels  and  boarding-houses.  Near 
it  is  the  Sailors''  Sn-ag  Harbor,  an  ancient 
foundation  for  dilapidated  mariners.  Two 
miles  east  of  Brighton  is  tho  Jfaj'ine  Hos- 
pital and  the  village  of  lompkinsviUe. 
The  trip  to  Staten  Island  occupies 
about  half  an  hour.  Ferry  from  Pier  1, 
E.  R.  (Whitehall  Street),  five  times  daily, 
coimocting  at  Vanderbilt's  Landing  with 
trains  on  Staten  Island  Railroiid,  for  Gar- 
rettsons,  Richmond,  Tottenvillo,  and  Avay 
stations.  Through  distance  to  Totten- 
vilh'  11  miles. 

Fort  Hamilton,  eight  miles  down  the 
bay,  commands,  in  connection  with  Forts 
Lafayette,  Tompkins,  and  Richmond,  op- 


iONG  Island.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[Long  Island. 


osite,  the  passage  seaward  of  the  Nar- 
0W3.  It  is  a  summer  residence  and  re- 
ort  for  sea  bathing.  Boats  to  Coney 
sland  land  passengers. 

Govcrnor''s  Ifiland^  on  which  are  Forts 
hhcmlnts  and  Castle  William,  and  Bcd- 
ye  and  Ellis^s  ("Gibbet")  Islands,  are 
Iso  seen  on  the  passage  down  the  bay. 

Coney  Island,  belonging  to  the  town  of 
rravescnd,  is  five  miles  long,  and  one 
road,  and  is  situated  about  1 2  miles 
"om  New  York.  It  has  a  fine  beach 
'onting  the  ocean,  and  is  much  frequent- 
d  by  New  Yorkers.  On  the  north  side 
f  the  island  are  two  hotels,  the  "  Pavil- 
)n  "  and  the  "  Tivoli,"  where  excellent 
lam-bakes  and  chowders  are  served, 
here  are  other  hotels  and  boarding- 
ouses  up  the  beach.  Steamer  Naushon, 
•om  foot  of  Christopher  and  Morris 
treets,  or  steam  cars  from  Brooklyn  via 
'reenwood  and  New  Utrecht.  A  pleas- 
nt  day's  excursion  may  be  made  from 

ew  York  by  the  ferry  to  Brooklyn, 
oending  the  forenoon  at  Greenwood, 
lence  to  Coney  Island,  returning  to  the 
.ij  by  the  Nauslion,  which  leaves  the 
land  on  her  last  trip  at  6.15  o'clock. 

Astoria,  a  suburban  village  on  Long 
?land,  six  miles  up  the  East  River,  near 
le  famous  whirlpool  of  Hell  Gate,  a  place 
f  beautiful  villas.  Steamboat,  foot  of 
ulton  Street,  East  River. 

The  New  York  Bay  Cemetery,  on  the 
ersey  shore,  is  reached  after  a  pleasant 
lil  clown  the  harbor.  It  is  one  of  the 
lost  beautiful  rural  spots  in  the  vicinage 
f  New  York. 

(For  other  places  and  points  of  interest 
ad  resort  in  the  vicinity  of  New  York, 
38  Long  Island,  New  Jersey,  etc.) 


HOUTB  I. 

liONG  ISLAND. 

Long  Island,  part  of  the  State  of  New 
ork,  is  115  miles  in  length,  and  at  some 
oints  20  miles  in  breadth  ;  bounded  by 
le  Atlantic  on  the  south,  and  by  Long 
dand  Sound  on  the  north.  The  upper 
art  of  the  island  is  agreeably  diversified 
ith  hills,  though  the  surface  is  for  the 
lOst  part  strikingly  level.  The  coast  is 
•larmiugly  indented  with  bays ;  and  deli- 


cious fresh-water  ponds,  fed  by  springs, 
are  everywhere  found  on  terraces  of  vary- 
ing elevation.  These  little  lakes,  and  the 
varied  coast  views,  give  Long  Island  pic- 
turesque features,  which,  if  not  grand,  are 
certainly  of  most  attractive  and  winnin'r' 
character,  heightened  by  the  rural  beauty 
of  the  numerous  quiet  little  towns  and 
charming  summer  villas.  Along  the  lower 
shore  of  the  island,  which  is  a  network 
of  shallow,  land-locked  waters,  extending 
70  miles,  fine  shooting  and  fishing  is  to 
be  had.  Hotel  and  boarding-house  ac- 
commodation is  abundant.  The  Lonr/ 
Island  Railway  affords  the  readiest  and 
most  expeditious  means  of  visiting  the 
numerous  points  on  the  island.  (See  Map.) 

Slations. — Hunter's  Point,  Jamaica, 
Brush  ville,  Hyde  Park,  Hempstead  Branch, 
Hempstead,  Westbury,  Ilickville,  Syossct, 
Jerusalem,  Farmingdale,  Deer  Park, 
Thompson,  North  Islip,  Lakeland,  Waver- 
ley,  Medford,  Taphank,  Manor,  River 
Head,  Jamesport,  Mattituck,  Cutchogue, 
Hermitage,  Southold,  and  Greenport,  99 
miles.  Passengers  leave  by  James  Slip 
Ferry,  or  foot  of  Thirty-fourth  Street,  East 
River,  New  York,  for  Hunter's  Point 
depot. 

Flatbush,  about  five  miles  from  Brook- 
lyn, has  a  flourishing  educational  institu- 
tion and  several  churches ;  near  this  vil- 
lage the  American  army  v/as  defeated  in 
1V76.  I'latlands  and  Gravesend,  ten  miles, 
are  small  but  handsome  pla'jes.  The 
shores  of  the  latter  place  abound  with 
clams,  oysters,  and  fowl,  and  are  much 
resorted  to. 

Battle  of  Long  Island  (August,  I'ZVG). 
The  thoughts  of  the  tourist  on  the  quiet 
pastoral  plains  of  Long  Island  will  revert 
with  interest  to  that  eventful  nio-ht  when 
the  British  troops,  under  Sir  Henry 
Clinton,  Lord  Cornwallis,  and  General 
Howe,  made  their  silent,  unsuspected 
march  from  llatlands,  through  the 
swamps  and  passes  to  Bedford  Hills, 
stealing  upon  the  rear  and  almost  sur- 
rounding the  patriot  lines — "  that  able  and 
fatal  scheme,  which  cost  the  Americans 
the  deadly  battle  of  Long  Island,  with  the 
loss  of  nearly  2,000  out  of  the  5,000  men 
engaged."  The  surprise  of  the  attack, 
the  obstinacy  of  the  conflict,  the  bold 
retreat,  and  the  loss  of  the  city  of  New 
York,  to  which  it  led,  make  this  battle 

29 


Long  Island.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[Long  Island. 


one  of  the  most  romantic  episodes  in  the 
history  of  the  Revolution. 

Jamaica,  12  miles  distant,  is  an  inter- 
esting old  rural  town,  situated  on  Jamaica 
Bay.  The  name  is  derived  from  the 
Yameca  tribe  of  Indians  which  located  at 
Beaver  Pond.  It  was  settled  (1G56)  by 
Daniel  Denton  and  others.  It  contains 
six  churches,  and  a  few  fine  residences, 
among  which  is  that  of  ex-Governor  King. 
The  Union  Race-course  is  in  this  town- 
ship. 

BrusliviUe  (Queens),  on  the  Long  Island 
Railway,  two  miles  east  of  Jamaica,  is  an 
attractive  resort  during  the  summer, 

Hyde  Park^  formerly  the  seat  of  the 
Hon.  George  Duncan  Ludlow,  is  about 
half  a  mile  north  of  the  road,  beyond 
Queens.  Here  (1818)  William  Cobbett 
composed  his  English  Grammar. 

Rockaway  BeacJL,  a  once  celebrated  and 
still  pleasant  watering-place,  on  the  At- 
lantic coast,  is  in  a  southeast  direction 
from  New  York.  The  Sea-side  House, 
upon  the  beach,  a  short  distance  from 
the  ocean,  affords  good  accommodations 
for  visitors.  There  are  several  other 
hotels  here,  also  several  private  board- 
ing-houses. The  best  route  to  Rockaway 
is  by  the  Long  Island  Railw^ay  to  J.  maica, 
twelve  miles,  thence  by  stage  eighi  miles, 
over  an  excellent  road  to  the  beach.  Dur- 
ing the  summer  season  a  s-teamboat  plies 
between  Xew  York  and  Rockaway.  The 
South  Side  Railway  will  soon  be  in  oper- 
ation between  Jamaica  and  Rockaway. 
Rock  Hall,  built  by  Dr.  Martin,  is  a  fine 
old  mansion,  and  contains  some  valuable 
pictures.  In  the  burial-ground  of  the 
Methodist  church  at  Rockaway,  built 
1790,  is  the  grave  and  monument  of  the 
victims  of  the  wreck  of  the  Bristol  and 
Mexico,  which  wei'e  lost  November  21, 
183G,  and  Jan.  2,  ISSY. 

Ccdarmcre,  the  home  of  "W.  Gullcn  Bry- 
ant, is  near  the  pretty  village  of  Roslyn 
(Hempstead  Ilar])or),  nt  the  head  of 
Hempstead  Bay,  about  two  hours' journey 
from  New  York;  route  by  steamI)oat  to 
Glen  Gove,  and  tlienee  by  stage,  or  by  the 
Long  Island  Railway,  20  miles  to  Hemp- 
stead Branch  (.Mineola),  and  thence  by 
stage.  Near  Mineola  are  the  Queen's 
County  Agricultural  Fair  grounds  and 
buildings.  Gedarraere  is  a  spot  of  great 
though  quiet,  picturesque  beauty,  over- 
30 


looking  Hempstead  Bay,  and  the  Con- 
necticut shore  across  the  Sound.  Many 
of  the  charmincr  terraced  sorinoc-water 
lakes,  of  which  we  have  spoken  already 
as  among  the  pleasant  and  unique  fea- 
tures of  the  Long  Island  landscape,  are 
found  within  the  domain  of  Cedarmere, 
and  in  the  neighborhood  of  Roslyn. 
Within  a  pleasant  stroll  of  Mr.  Bryant's 
residence  is  Hempstead  Hill,  said  to  be 
the  highest  land  on  Long  Island.  This 
fine  eminence  overlooks  the  Sound  and 
inlets  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  ocean 
beach  on  the  other ;  at  its  base  the  village 
of  Roslyn  is  nestled  among  green  trees 
and  placid  lakelets.  Roslyn  is  also  the 
residence  of  Joseph  W.  Moulton,  author 
of  a  "  History  of  New  York." 

Hempstead  Village,  in  the  township  of 
North  Hempstead,  21  miles  east  of  Brook- 
h'n,  is  an  interesting  place.  It  was  origi- 
nallv  bouirht  bv  the  Dutch  in  1640,  who 
gave  the  place  its  name  Hemsteede 
(homestead),  since  corrupted  to  Hemp- 
stead. It  was  afterward  (1684)  settled 
by  New  Englanders  who  came  hither  by 
way  of  Stamford.  It  contains  three 
churches,  several  good  schools,  two 
hotels,  and  a  population  of  nearly  2,000. 
The  park  is  prettily  laid  out.  The  Rev. 
Richard  Denton,  and  his  son,  Daniel 
Denton,  the  historian,  were  among  the 
first  settlers  of  "Hempstead.  The  old 
Presbyterian  burial-ground  contains  some 
quaint  headstones.  Hcmjjstcad  Rlains  is 
an  open  space  of  12,000  acres,  embra- 
cing the  Newmarket  Race-course,  where 
the  annual  "  Huckleberry  Frolic  "  takes 
place.  In  1'784  the  town  of  North  Hemp- 
stead was  separated  from  Hempstead  by 
act  of  the  Legislature,  and  has  since  been 
a  separate  town.  Among  the  distinguish- 
ed men  born  in  the  town  of  North  Hemp- 
stead were  Dr.  Samuel  L.  Mitchell,  un- 
equalled in  his  day  as  a  naturalist,  and 
the  late  Valentine  Mott,  M.  D.,  who  had 
not  his  equal  as  a  surgeon.  Success  Pond, 
fiimous  for  its  perch  fisheries,  and  Lake- 
ville,  a  little  village  which  has  sjjrung  up 
on  its  marge,  are  both  in  the  town  of 
North  Hempstead.  The  village  of  Man- 
hasscf,  near  Success,  contains  a  iew  an- 
cient structures,  among  which  are  the 
Friends'  Meeting-llouse,  built  in  1810, 
Christ  Church,  and  the  Dutch  Reformed 
Church. 


New  York.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[New  York. 


IsUp^  a  village  of  SuiFolk  County,  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  Great  South  Bay, 
and  is  a  favorite  resort  during  tlie  sum- 
mer months.  Distant  from  New  York 
45  miles.  The  Pavilion  is  the  leading 
hotel. 

Flushing^  10  miles  from  the  metropolis, 
on  an  arm  of  the  Sound  called  Flushing 
Bay,  affords  a  pleasant  excursion.  The 
Linncean  Botanic  Garden  is  here.  Boat 
at  Fulton  Street  twice  daily.  Also  by 
rail  from  Hunter's  Point,  Thirty-fourth 
Street  Ferry. 

Gkn  Cove,  and  other  pleasant  points  on 
the  island,  are  reached  daily  by  boat  from 
New  York.  The  steamer  Arrow  Smith 
leaves  Peck  Slip,  Pier  24  East  Kivcr, 
every  morning  at  9.15,  for  Glen  Cove, 
Koslyn,  and  way  landings. 


TO  ALBANY  AND  TROY. 

It  is  fortunate  for  the  gratification  and 
the  cultivation  of  the  public  taste,  for  the 
sublime  and  beautiful  in  natural  scenery, 
when  our  great  higliways  of  travel  chance 
to  lead  through  such  wondrous  land- 
scape as  does  our  present  journey  up  the 
Hudson  River,  from  New  York  to  Al- 
bany. Even  to  the  v/earied  or  the  Lur- 
ried traveller  this  voyage  is  ever  one  of 
pleasure,  in  its  unique  and  constantly 
varying  attractions,  its  thousand  associa- 
tions, legendary,  historical,  poetical,  and 
sociaL 

The  Hudson  received  its  name  in  honor 
of  Hendrick  Hudson,  a  Dutch  navigator, 
who  discovered  it,  and  ascended  its 
waters  for  the  first  time  in  his  vessel, 
the  "  Half  Moon,"  in  1609.  It  is  also 
known  as  the  North  River,  which  name 
was  given  to  it  by  the  original  Dutch 
colonists,  to  distinguish  it  from  the 
South  (Zuyd),  as  they  called  the  neigh- 
boring floods  of  the  Delaware.  Its  source 
is  in  the  mountain  region  of  the  Adiron- 
dacks,  in  Essex  County,  east  of  Long 
Lake,  in  the  upper  portion  of  New  York, 
whence  it  flows  in  two  small  streams — 
the  one  from  Hamilton  and  the  other 
from  Essex  County.  These  waters,  after 
a  journey  of  40  miles,  unite  in  Warren 
County.  Its  head-waters  are  nearly 
4,000  feet  above  the  sea  level.  The 
course  of  the  Hudson  varies  from  south 


by  east  for  some  distance,  but  at  length 
drops  into  a  straight  line,  and  continues 
thus  nearly  southward,  until  it  fiills 
into  the  Bay  of  New  York.  Its  entire 
extent  is  about  325  miles ;  its  navigable 
length,  from  the  sea  to  Albau}^,  is  nearly 
half  that  distance.  Its  breadth,  near  the 
head  of  steamboat  navigation,  varies 
from  300  to  900  yards;  and  at  the 
Tappan  Bay,  20  miles  above  the  City 
of  New  York,  it  widens  to  the  extent 
of  four  and  a  half  miles.  Ships  of  the 
first  class  can  navigate  the  river  as  far 
as  Hudson,  117  miles,  and  small  sail- 
ing craft  may  reach  the  head  of  tide- 
water (166  miles)  at  Troy.  To  the 
Hudson  belongs  the  honor,  not  only  of 
possessing  the  finest  river  steamboats  in 
the  world,  but  of  having  home  xiyon  its 
tcaters  the  first  steamboat  that  ever  floated, 
wdien  Robert  Fulton  ascended  the  river 
in  the  "  Clermont,"  in  1807,  exactly  two 
centuries  after  the  first  voyage  of  Hen- 
drick Hudson  in  the  "  Half  Moon." 

The  visitor  or  tourist  up  the  Hud- 
son has  every  possible  facility  for  seeing 
its  various  points  to  advantage ;  he  can 
proceed  either  by  steamer  or  by  railway, 
morning,  noon,  or  night.  The  former  is 
much  the  more  desirable  during  the  sum- 
mer months.  The  boats  of  the  day  line, 
Daniel  Drew  and  C.  Vibbard,  start  from 
piers  foot  of  Desbrosses  and  Thirty- 
fourth  Streets,  at  7.45  and  8  a.  m.  ;  and 
those  of  the  night  (People's  line),  St.  John 
and  Dean  liicJimond,  from  foot  of  Canal 
Street,  N.  P.,  at  6  p.  m.  No  Sunday 
boat  on  either  line. 


RAILWAY  ROUTE. 

The  journey  by  the  Hudson  River  Rail- 
way, 144  miles,  to  Albany,  though  less 
popular  with  pleasure  travellers  during 
the  heats  of  summer  than  the  steamboat 
route,  is  nevertheless  a  most  interesting 
one.  The  road  lies  on  the  eastern  bank 
of  the  river,  kissing  its  waters  continually, 
and  ever  and  anon  crossing  wide  bays 
and  the  mouths  of  tributary  streams.  In- 
credible difficulties  have  been  surmounted 
in  its  mountain,  rock,  and  water  passage, 
and  all  so  successfully  and  so  thoroughly, 
that  it  is  one  of  the  securest  routes  on 
the  continent.    Opened  43  miles  to  Peeks- 

31 


New  York.] 


KEW  YORK. 


[Xew  York, 


kill,  September  29,  1849,  and  opened 
throu^'h,  October  8,  1S51.  It  has  eight 
tunnels,  with  an  a'r<2;re<2:ate  lenEfth  of 
3,505  feet.  The  total  amount  expended 
in  buiklinj:;  and  equipping  the  line  was 
$12,700,000.  With  its  immense  bur-mess, 
its  history  is  hap])ily  free  i'rom  any  con- 
siderable record  of  collision  or  accident. 
This  is  owing  as  much  to  the  vigilant 
management  and  the  admirable  police 
as  to  the  substantial  character  of  the  road 
itself.  The  flag-men  are  so  stationed  along 
the  entire  line,  at  intervals  of  a  mile,  and 
at  curves  and  acclivities,  as  to  secure  un- 
broken signal  communication  from  one 
end  to  the  other.  Five  through  trains 
daily  from  Chambers  and  Thirtieth  Street 
depots,  four  of  which  are  express.  Time, 
five  hours. 

Stations. — ]\Ianhattan,  8  miles ;  Fort 
Washington,  10 ;  Yonkcrs,  17 ;  Dobb's 
Ferry,  22  (ferry  to  Fiermont,  Erie  Rail- 
way) ;  Tarrytown,  27  ;  Sing  Sing,  32  ; 
Pcekskill,  4o  ;  Garrison's,  51  (steam  ferry 
to  West  Point  and  Cozzens's  Hotel) ; 
Cold  Spring,  54  ;  Fishkill,  GO  (will  be  the 
junction  of  Providence,  Hartford,  and 
Fishkill  Railroad,  f^team  lerry  to  Neu- 
burg,  terminus  of  Newburg  branch  of 
Erie  Railway) ;  New  Hamburg,  G6 ; 
Poughkecpsie,  75  (half-way  and  refresh- 
ment station);  Hyde  Park,  80;  Staats- 
bui'g,  85  ;  Rhinebeck,  90  ;  Parrytown,  9G  ; 
Tiv'oli,  100  ;  Germantown,  105  ;  Oakhdl, 
110  (ferry  to  Catskill  village,  route  to 
Catskill  Alountains) ;  Hudson,  115  (Junc- 
tion of  the  Hudson  and  Boston  Railway); 
Stockport,  120;  Coxsackie,  125;  Stuy- 
vesant,  12G;  Schodack,  133;  Castlcton, 
13G  ;  East  Albany,  144;  Troy,  150  miles. 

[For  dcscri/jtioit  of  places  and  scenes, 
see  steamboat  route  folio  wine/.) 


MOUTJE  II. 

BT  STEAMER Fi  ON  THE  HUBSO^f 
liJVER. 

If  the  traveller  accompany  us  up  the 
Hudson,  he  will  take  passage  in  one  of 
the  s[)hndid  steamers  already  mentioned 
which  leave  New  York  every  morning  and 
night. 

The  size  and  Ijcauty  of  the  boats,  and 
the  convenience,  eoniibrt,  and  luxury  of 
their  appointments,  will  be  matter  for 
32 


pleasant  wonder  and  thought,  even  to 
those  most  accustrmed  to  them,  when- 
ever a  moment  can  be  stolen  from  the 
endless  attractions  on  the  way. 

We  start  as  the  morning  sun  is  falling 
upon  the  thousand  sail  which  fill  the 
grand  bay  of  New  York  ;  biit  scarcely 
have  our  eyes  taken  in  half  the  beauties 
of  this  superb  panorama — the  roofs  and 
spires  and  domes  of  the  great  metrop- 
olis on  one  side,  Jersey  City  upon  the 
opposite  shore,  the  fortresses  of  Govern- 
or's Island,  of  Bedloe  and  Ellis's  Islands, 
and  of  Fort  Hamilton  ;  the  shores  of 
Long  Island,  and  the  villa  banks  of  Staten 
Island  beyond,  with  the  far-off  perspec- 
tive of  the  hill-bound  "  Narrows  " — be- 
fore we  must  turn  our  backs  upon  it  all, 
to  gaze  upon  the  yet  more  charming 
scenes  which  are  presented  to  us  as  our 
steamer  ploughs  the  channel  northward. 

Passing  in  full  view  of  the  pleasant  vil- 
lages of  Hoboken  and  Weehawkeu,  else- 
where described,  on  the  opposite  shore, 
we  shortly  reach  the  Palisades.  These 
grand  precipices,  rising  in  many  places  to 
the  height  of  500  feet,  follow,  in  un- 
broken line,  as  far  as  the  great  bay  of 
the  river,  called  the  Tappan  Zee,  a  dis- 
tance of  20  miles.  They  do  not  wholly 
terminate,  liowever,  until  Ave  reach  Haver- 
straw,  a  distance  SG  miles  from  New 
York.  The  rock  is  trap,  columnar  in 
formation,  somewhat  after  the  fashion 
of  the  famous  Giant's  Causeway  in  Ire- 
land and  of  Fingal's  Cave  in  Scotland. 
They  lend  great  beauty  to  the  picture  as 
we  start  upon  our  journey,  and  to  all  the 
pictures  of  the  river,  of  which  they  form 
a  part.  Guitcnbe7\g,  opposite  Seventieth 
Street,  is  a  recent  German  settlement, 
overlooking  the  river,  famous  ibr  its  ex- 
tensive brewery. 

UhWs  Ftrry^  opposite  Ninetieth  Street, 
New  York,  now  lies  upon  our  left.  It 
is  a  favorite  sunmier  resort  and  resi- 
dence of  the  people  of  New  York.  In  the 
hot  months,  the  ferry-boals,  continually 
plying  thither,  at  a  fare  of  only  12^  cents, 
are  thronged  with  passengers. 

Bloontiiigdide,  a  suburban  village,  six 
miles  from  the  City  Hall,  lies  on  the 
right.  The  Orphan  Asijlvm  here,  with 
its  fine  lawns  sloping  down  to  the  river 
edge,  forms  a  conspicuous  feature  of  the 
landscape. 


New  York.] 


NEW   YORK. 


[YoNKEIiS. 


Fort  Lee^  ten  miles  up  the  river,  and 
opposite  One  Hundred  and  Sixtieth 
Street,  New  York,  now  cidls  us  back 
a<iain  to  the  western  sliore.  It  crowns 
the  lofty  brow  of  the  Palisades,  300  feet 
above  the  river.  Some  interesting  mem- 
ories of  the  days  of  the  American  Revo- 
lution are  awakened  here.  The  anxious 
thoughts  of  Washington  and  his  generals 
turned  to  this  point  in  that  eventful 
period.  A  fortification  here  stood  upon 
the  heights,  whichwas  called  Mount  Con- 
stitution, and  here  it  was  attempted,  by 
the  express  command  of  Congress,  to  ob- 
struct the  navigation  of  the  river  by  every 
art  and  at  whatever  expense,  "  as  well  to 
prevent  the  egress  of  the  enemy's  fngates, 
lately  gone  up,  as  to  hinder  them  from  re- 
ceiving succors."  A  large  force  of  Amer- 
icans, in  retreating  from  Fort  Lee,  were 
overpowered,  and  either  slain  or  taken 
prisoners  by  a  greatly  superior  body  of 
Hessian  troops. 

Fort  Was]iingio7i^  another  spot  of  deep 
historical  interest,  stands  on  a  steep 
projecting  clilf,  between  One  Hundred 
and  Eighty-first  and  One  Hundred  and 
Eighty-fifth  Streets,  New  York,  nearly 
opposite  Fort  Lee.  Like  that  locality, 
it  reminds  us  of  the  most  trying  hours 
of  the  trying  times  in  American  story. 
It  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  enemy, 
November  16,  1'7'76,  and  the  garrison 
of  3,000  men  became  prisoners  of  wai\ 
Two  days  after,  Lord  Cornv;allis,  with 
6,000  men,  crossed  the  river,  at  Hobb's 
Ferry,  and  attacked  Fort  Lee.  The  gar- 
rison there,  then  commanded  by  General 
Greene,  made  a  hasty  retreat  to  the  en- 
campment of  the  main  army,  under  Wash- 
ington, live  miles  back,  at  Hackensack. 
All  the  baggage  and  stores  fell  into  the 
bauds  of  the  enemy.  The  fort  was  a 
strong  earthwork,  of  irregular  form,  cov- 
ering several  acres.  Some  20  pieces  of 
ordnance,  besides  small-arms,  bristled 
upon  its  walls,  though  its  strength  lay 
chiefly  in  its  position.  The  very  spot 
where  the  old  foit  once  stood,  as  well  as 
all  the  region  round,  is  now  covered  by  the 
peaceful  and  fragrant  lawns  and  gardens 
of  elegant  villa  residences.  Just  below 
the  high  grounds  once  occupied  by  Fort 
Washington  {Washington  Meighls\  and 
close  by  the  river,  is  the  promontory  of 
Jeffrey's  Hook.  A  redoubt  was  construct- 


ed here  as  a  covering  to  the  chcvaiix-de- 
/rise  in  the  channel.  The  banks  of  this 
work  are  still  plainly  to  be  seen.  A))ove 
Fort  Washington,  on  the  same  side  of  the 
river,  was  Fort  Tryon.  The  site  now  lies 
between  One  Hundred  and  Ninety-fifth 
and  One  Hundred  and  Ninety-eighth 
Streets,  New  York.  Not  far  beyond  is 
the  northern  boundary  of  Manhattan  Isl- 
and— the  little  waters,  famous  in  history 
and  stoiy  as  Spuyten  Duyvel  (Spite 
the  Devil)  Creek.  King's  Bridge,  built 
in  1693,  by  Frederick  Phillips,  marks  the 
meeting  of  the  waters  v/hich  flow  from 
the  East  into  the  North  River,  and  form 
the  Island  of  Manhattan.  Hard  by  (Two 
Hundred  and  Seventeenth  Sti'cet),  was  a 
redoubt  of  two  guns,  called  Cock  Hill 
Fort ;  and  upon  Tetard's  Hill,  across  the 
creek,  was  Fort  Independence,  a  square 
redoubt  with  bastions. 

Upon  the  heights  on  each  side  of  King's 
Bridge  a  bloody  fight  took  place  between 
the  British  and  American  forces,  January, 
1111.  The  heights  command  an  ex- 
tended and  picturesque  view. 

There  was  still  another  military  work 
here,  strengthened  by  the  British  in  1781, 
and  named  Fort  Prince.  The  upper  end 
of  the  island  of  New  York,  where  we  have 
lino-ered  so  long,  is  rich  in  scenes  and 
memories  of  interest ;  and  the  beautiful 
landscape  is  yet  embellished  by  abundant 
traces  of  its  early  history. 

Yoiilici's — (Hotel,  Gdty  House), 
11  miles  up  the  river,  is  an  ancient 
settlement  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ne- 
peran,  or  Saw-Mill  River.  Since  the 
opening  of  the  Hudson  River  Railway,  it 
has  become  a  fashionable  suburban  town 
of  New  York,  as  the  short  distance 
thence  permits  pleasant,  speedy,  and 
cheap  transport  by  land  or  water,  Yon- 
kers  was  the  home  of  the  once  famous 
family  of  the  PhiUipses,  of  which  was 
Mary  Phillips,  the  first  love  of  General 
Washington.  The  Manor-House,  a  spa- 
cious edifice  of  KStone,  built  in  1682,  is 
still  to  be  seen.  The  present  front  was 
added  in  1745.  It  is  now  occupied  by 
its  present  owner,  Mr.  Woodworth.  East 
of  the  Phillips  manor-house  is  Locust  Hill, 
where  the  American  troops  were  encamped 
in  1781.  Near  the  village  is  the  spot 
where  Colonel  Gist  was  attacked  (1778) 
by  a  combined  force  under  Tarleton  aud 

QO 


Dogb's  Ferry.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[Tarrttown. 


others.  In  1'7'77  a  naval  action  occurred 
in  front  of  Yonkers,  between  the  Ameri- 
can gunboats  and  the  British  frigates 
Koss  and  Phoonix.  Mr.  Frederic  Coz- 
zens,  the  author,  resides  at  Yonkers. 
Tlie  "Castle"  of  Mr.  Edwin  Forrest, 
known  as  Fo7ilhill,  is  two  and  a  half  miles 
north  of  Spuyten  Duyvel  Creek,  and  just 
below  Yonkers.  It  is  now,  together  with 
a  large  and  more  imposing  edifice,  owned 
and  occupied  by  the  Roman  Catholic 
convent  and  academy  of  Mount  St. 
Vincent. 

Slsti^tisig'iii^  tliree  miles  north  of 
Yonkers,  is  a  thriving  little  village  ;  the 
vicinity  contains  many  beautiful  resi- 
dences. The  Palisades  here  recede  from 
view  on  the  opposite  shore.  Hastings  has 
large  marlde  and  stone  yards. 

liol>I>'s  Ferry,  two  miles  yet 
beyond,  and  still  upon  the  eastern  bank 
of  the  river,  is  an  ancient  settlement, 
■wilh  a  new  leaven  of  metropolitan  life, 
like  all  the  places  within  an  hour  or 
two's  journey  from  New  York.  The  vil- 
lage has  a  pleasant  air,  lying  along  the 
river  slope,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Wisqua- 
qua  Creek.  Its  name  is  that  of  an  old 
family  which  once  possessed  the  region 
and  established  a  ferry.  Remains  of 
military  works  still  exist  at  Dobb's 
Ferry.  Zion  Church  is  an  old  and  inter- 
esting edifice. 

Irvisjg-fioia  &  '*  Siimiysido." 
Irvington,  four  miles  above,  on  the  right 
bank,  was  once  called  Dearman,  and  it 
was  expected  to  grow  into  a  large  town, 
as  an  outlet  of  the  great  Erie  Railway, 
which  touches  the  river  opposite  at  Picr- 
mont ;  but  the  Erie  travel  was  afterward 
led  to  the  metropolis  through  another 
terminus  at  Jersey  City,  and  so  Irvington 
is  little  more  than  a  railway  station  to 
this  day. 

Dearman  was  rechristened  Irvington, 
in  honor  of  the  late  Washington  Irving, 
whose  uiii(iue  little  cottage  of  JSmmt/sidc 
is  close  by,  u\Hm  the  margin  of  the  river, 
hidden  from  the  eye  of  the  traveller  only 
J)y  the  dense  growth  of  the  surrounding 
ti'ces  and  shrubbery.  It  is  a  pretty  stone 
cottage,  the  eastern  side  embowered  in 
•dvy,  tlie  earlier  slips  of  whieh  were  pre- 
sented to  Irving  by  Sir  Walter  Seott, 
at  Abbotsford,  and  were  jjlantcd  by 
Irving  himself,  ricrinont,  on  the  op- 
34 


posite  (western)  shore,  is  the  freight  ter- 
minus of  the  Erie  Railway.  The  river  is 
here  three  miles  Mide,  and  forms  what  is 
known  as  the  Tappan  Zee.  The  pier 
projects  into  the  river  a  distance  of  one 
mile,  and  marks  the  northern  boundary 
of  New  Jersey.  The  view  of  the  river  at 
this  point  presents  a  fine  picture. 

Cedar  Hill  Cottage,  the  residence  of 
Mr.  Lewis  Gaylord  Clark,  crowns  an 
eminence  near  Piermont.  The  house  was 
originally  built  by  one  Woolfcrt  Acker, 
an  original  New  Yorker,  who  inscribed 
over  his  door  his  Dutch  motto,  "Just  in 
Rust."  It  was  thence  called  "  Wool- 
fert's  Rust,"  since  corrupted  into  "  Wool- 
fert's  Roost."  Between  Irvington  and 
Dobb's  Ferry  is  Nevis,  once  the  home- 
stead of  Col.  James  Hamilton.  It  con- 
tains many  reminiscences  of  Hamilton, 
among  whieh  is  Washington's  last  por- 
trait, by  Stuart.  The  residences  of  Mr. 
Williams,  Mr.  Jaftray,  and  ]Mr.  Cottiuet, 
in  this  neighborhood,  are  much  admired. 

Three  miles  out  of  Piermont  is  the  old 
town  of  Tapjjan,  interesting  as  having 
been  one  of  the  chief  of  Vrashina;ton's 
headquarters  during  the  Revolution,  and 
as  the  spot  also  where  Major  Andre  was 
imprisoned  and  executed.  The  home  of 
the  Commander-in-Chief  and  the  jail  of 
the  ill-fated  officer  are  still  in  good  pres- 
ervation, though  the  latter  house  has 
been  somewhat  modified  in  its  interior 
arrangements  of  late  years,  to  suit  its 
present  occupancy  as  a  tavern,  \mdcr  the 
style  and  title  of  the  "  'Seventy-six  Stone- 
House."  The  old  Dutch  church  in  which 
Andre  was  tried,  stood  near  by,  but  it 
was  torn  down  in  18'JG,  and  a  new  struc- 
ture reared  upon  its  site.  The  spot 
where  the  execution  took  place  (October 
2,  1780)  is  within  a  short  v.alk  of  the 
Old  Slonc-IIousc  in  which  tlie  prisoner 
was  confined. 

I^'ysioli:,  once  famous  for  its  quar- 
ries of  red  sandstone,  is  on  the  west  side 
of  the  river,  above  I'ieimont .  Oak  Hill 
Ccwclcry  is  a  pretty  spot,  in  view  from 
the  river. 

'l"'sarryto\m,  2G  miles  from  New 
York,  is  a  prosperous  little  town  on 
the  eastern  bank  of  the  Hudson,  con- 
nceted  with  Nyack  by  ferry.  It  has 
many  attractions,  historicnl,  pietorial,  and 
social  ;    elegant   villas,   chietiy  occupied 


Sing  Sing.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[CuoTON  Point. 


by  New  York  gentlemen,  having  gathered 
thickly  around  it,  as  about  all  this  part 
of  the  river's  marge,  within  the  past  few 
years.  A  short  distance  up  Mill  River  is 
the  quiet  little  valley  of  Sleepy  Hollow^ 
the  scene  of  some  of  Irving's  happiest 
fancies.  CarVs  M'dJ  and  the  bi-idge  over 
the  bi'ook  are  still  standing.  The 
principal  objects  of  interest  in  the 
villaire  are  those  connected  with  Irving's 
life  and  memory,  the  Old  Dutch  Churchy 
and  near  by  St.  Mark''s^  better  knovvui 
as  the  Memorial  Churchy  the  corner- 
stone of  which  was  laid  July  4,  186G. 
It  stands  on  Broadway,  where  Ichabod 
Crane,  the  village  schoolmaster,  encoun- 
tered the  "  headless  horseman,"  and 
but  a  few  yards  from  the  spot  where 
Andre  was  captured.  It  is  in  contem- 
plation to  place  a  marble  statue  of  Irving 
in  the  vestibule  of  the  church. 

During  the  Revolution,  Tarrytown  wit- 
nessed many  stormy  fights  between  those 
lawless  and  marauding  bands  of  both 
British  and  Americans,  known  as  "  Skin- 
ners "  and  "  Cowboys."  It  was  upon  a 
spot,  now  in  the  heart  of  Tarrytown,  that 
Major  Andre  was  arrested,  while  return- 
ing to  the  British  lines,  after  a  visit  to 
General  Arnold.  A  simple  'monument — 
an  obelisk  of  granite — now  marks  the 
spot,  his  remains  having  been  removed 
to  Westminster  Abbey  in  1821.  At 
Oreenshurg,  three  miles  east  of  Tarry- 
town, is  a  monument  to  Isaac  Van  Wart, 
one  of  the  captors,  who  died  in  1828. 

Sing  Siii§*,  33  miles. — Hotels, 
American  House. — Sing  Sing  is  on  the 
right  bank,  and  in  its  acclivitous  to- 
pography, upon  a  slope  of  200  feet,  it 
makes  a  fine  appearance  from  the  water. 
The  greatest  breadth  of  the  Hudson, 
nearly  four  miles,  is  at  this  point.  Many 
fine  country  seats  crown  the  heights  of 
this  pleasant  village.  It  is  distinguished 
for  its  educational  establishments  ;  for  its 
vicina2;e  to  the  mouth  of  the  Croton 
River,  from  whence  the  city  of  New  York 
derives  its  abundant  supply  of  water;  and 
for  being  the  seat  of  the  State  Prison 
(Momit  Pleasant).  The  name  is  derived 
from  an  Indian  word,  meaning  "  Strong 
Place."     A  fire  occurred  Sept.  7,  1866. 

The  Croton  enters  the  Hudson  two 
miles  above  the  village,  where  its  artifi- 
cial passage  to  the  metropolis  is  begun. 


The  great  aqueduct  at  this  point  is  espe- 
cially interesting,  being  carried  over  the 
Sing  Sing  Hill  by  an  arch  of  stone  ma- 
sonry 88  feet  between  the  abutments,  and 
100  feet  above  the  water.  It  was  com- 
menced in  1835,  and  the  entire  work  com- 
pleted in  1842,  at  a  cost  of  $14,000,000. 
(See  Haulem  Railway.) 

The  State  Prison^  which  no  visitor 
should  fail  to  see,  is  located  on  the 
banks  of  the  Hudson,  nearly  three-quar- 
ters of  a  mile  south  of  the  village.  The 
buildings  are  large  structures,  erected 
by  the  convicts  themselves,  with  mate- 
rial from  the  marble  and  limestone  quar- 
ries which  abound  here,  and  which 
many  of  them  are  continually  employed 
in  working.  The  prisons  form  three 
sides  of  a  square.  The  main  edifice 
is  484  feet  long,  44  feet  wide,  and  five 
stories  high,  with  cells  for  1,000  occu- 
pants, 869  of  which  were  filled  in  1852. 
In  1861  over  1,300  were  confined  here. 
The  female  prisoners  are  lodged  in  a  fine 
edifice,  some  30  or  40  rods  east  of  the 
male  department.  The  prisoners  are 
guarded  by  sentinels,  instead  of  being 
inclosed  by  walls.  The  whole  area 
covered  by  the  establishment  is  about 
130  acres.  The  railway  passes  through 
and  beneath  the  prisons,  but  from  the 
river  they  are  seen  to  advantage. 

Ci'otoit  ( Teller^s)  I*©iiat,  a  promi- 
nent headland  dividing  Ilaverstraw  Bay 
from  the  Tappan  Zee,  four  miles  above 
Sing  Sing,  is  noteworthy  for  its  famous 
lake  which  supplies  the  metropolis  with 
water.  The  diyn  is  250  feet  long,  40  feet 
high,  and  70  feet  thick  at  the  base.  The 
capacitv  of  the  lake  is  500,000,000  gal- 
lons, and  it  discharges  40,000,000  to 
60,000,000  daily. 

Verd.i'icteg*c§'  llool-r,  opposite 
Sing  Sing,  is  a  commanding  height,  with 
such  a  deceptive  appearance,  viewed  from 
the  river  above  and  below,  of  a  grand 
headland,  that  it  has  been  christened 
Point-no-Foi?it.  Upon  this  mountain 
summit  lies  RocJcland  Lake.  It  is  about 
four  miles  in  circumference,  and  forms 
the  source  of  the  Hackensack  River, 
which  flows  parallel  with  the  Hudson. 
Though  not  more  than  a  mile  from  the 
Hudson,  it  is  yet  200  feet  above  it.  The 
ice  from  this  lake  is  highly  esteemed  in 
New  York,  whither  it  is  annually  shipped. 

85 


Peekskill.] 


NEW   YORK. 


[Caldwell's  Landing. 


IlaverRtraw^  SG  miles,  is  also  on  the 
we>^t  .<ide,  one  mile  from  the  river.  It  is 
a  pleasant  and  prosperous  place,  with 
attractive  scenery. 

VcrplancJS' s  J^ovif^  on  the  east  side, 
is  the  spot  at  which  Hcndrick  Hudson's 
ship,  tlie  Half  iloon,  first  came  to  anchor 
after  leaving  tlie  mouth  of  the  river. 
Three  miles  above  is  Sto7i>/  Poinf,  the  site 
of  a  fort  during  the  Revolution.  This  fort 
was  stormed  and  carried  by  General 
Wayne,  July  16,  1119.  The  present  light- 
house and  bell-tower  mark  the  site  of  the 
magazine  of  the  old  fort,  and  being  objects 
of  much  interest,  are  always  pointed  out. 
Half  way  betv»'een  the  Point  and  Haver- 
straw  may  still  be  seen  the  house  where 
Arnold  and  Andre  met  and  consulted. 
It  is  of  stone,  with  a  piazza  in  front,  and 
stands  on  the  hill-side  bej'ond  the  flats. 
The  creek  which  winds  through  the 
marsh,  south  of  Verplanck's  Point,  as 
afterward  the  peninsula  itself,  was  called 
Mcaliagh  by  the  Indians.  Stephen  Van 
Cortland  purcliased  it  of  them  in  3G83, 
and  it  passed  from  his  possession  into 
that  of  his  son,  whose  only  daughter  and 
heiress  married  Philip  Verplanck,  from 
whom  its  present  name.  Tojiofiraphically, 
Verplanck's  Point  may  be  described  as  a 
peninsula,  gradually  rising  from  a  gentle 
surface,  until  it  terminates  in  the  river  in 
a  bold  bluff  of  from  40  to  50  ieet  eleva- 
tion. A  small  fortification,  called  Fort 
Faiicite^  once  existed  at  the  western  ex- 
tremity of  Verplanck's  Point,  many  re- 
mains of  which  are  yet  distinctly  visible. 
This  fort,  and  that  of  Slowi  Foini  ojjpo- 
site,  were  taken  by  the  English  under  ISir 
Henry  Clinton,  June  1,  1110. 

l*ot'lcsKill,  42  miles,  is  one  of  the 
most  interesting  places  on  the  Hudson. 
It  is  near  the  mouth  of  the  Peekskill  or 
Annsville  Creek,  which  enters  the  Hud- 
son a  short  distance  above.  The  town 
was  settled  by  Jolni  Peek,  in  1*704,  an 
early  Dutch  naviiiator  of  the  Hudson, 
who,  as  popular  trailition  runs,  mistaking 
this  creek  for  a  continuation  of  the  main 
stream,  ran  his  boat  ashore,  and  com- 
menced the  future  town.  Pojndation 
3,000.  In  the  Cortlandville  Cemetory 
two  miles  north  of  the  village,  is  a  marble 
monument  to  .John   I'aulding. 

Puisuing  our  voyage  up  river,  we  now 
enter  Uaverstraw  Bay,  the  second  of  the 
3G 


great  extensions  of  the  Hudson,  and  the 
commencement  of  the  magnificent  scenery 
of  the  Highlands.  On  our  left  rises  the 
rugged  front  of  the  Dunderhcrg  Moun- 
tain^ at  whose  base  the  little  hamlet  and 
landing  of  Caldvcll  are  nestled ;  on  the 
right,  the  village  of  Peekskill  ascends 
from  the  shore  to  the  lofty  hill  summit, 
and  before  us  is  the  narrow  passage  of 
the  river,  around  the  point  of  the  Dunder- 
berg,  the  grand  base  of  AnUiony'^s  Kose^ 
and  other  mountain  clifis  and  precipices. 
From  GaUoics  Hill  or  Treason  Hill  (so 
called  in  remembrance  of  the  execution 
there  of  the  spy  Palmer,  in  the  days  of 
the  Revolution)  noithward,  a  grand  pan- 
orama is  exhibited.  Here,  to  the  Avest, 
overlooking  the  village,  the  river,  and  its 
mountain  shores;  there,  southward,  hill 
and  vallev,  as  far  as  the  hie;h  grounds  of 
Tarrytown  below;  and  above,  the  Cano- 
pus  Valley,  in  the  shadow  of  the  High- 
land precipices.  The  division  of  the 
American  anny  under  Putnam,  in  1777, 
was  encamped  upon  Gallows  Hill.  Be- 
neath this  lofty  ground,  and  upon  the 
banks  of  Canopus  Creek,  is  Continental 
Village,  destroyed  by  General  Tryon  (Oc- 
tober 9,  1777),  together  with  the  bar- 
racks, public  stores,  and  many  cattle. 

The  Van  Cortland  House,  in  the  vi- 
cinity, is  an  object  of  interest,  as  the  an- 
cient seat  of  an  ancient  family,  and  as  the 
temporary  residence  of  Washington.  Near 
by  is  a  venerable  church,  erected  in  1767, 
within  whose  graA  eyard  there  is  a  monu- 
ment to  the  memorv  of  John  Pauldinsr, 
one  of  the  captors  of  Major  Andre.  A 
pleasant  ride  from  Pecksldll  is  to  Lake 
Jlahopae,  a  fashionable  summer  resort 
for  the  pleasure-seeliers  of  Is'ew  York. 
(See  Index.) 

Csil«l^vell''s  lima  (till  g-.  at  the 
foot  of  Dunderberg  Mountain,  three  miles 
above  Stony  Point,  was  long  a  calling- 
place  for  the  river  steamers.  The  pas- 
i^engers  for  Peekskill,  opi)osite,  were  then 
always  landed  at  Caldwell.  Tliis  spot  is 
memorable  for  the  search  so  seriously 
and  actively  made  for  the  treasure  which 
the  famous  pirate  Caj)tain  Kidd  was  sup- 
posed to  have  secreted  at  the  l)ottom  of 
the  river  here.  Renains  of  the  apparatus 
used  for  this  purpose  are  still  seen,  in 
bold,  black  rcliel,  at  the  Dunderberg 
Point,  as  the  boat  rounds  it,  toward  the 


The  Highlands.] 


NEW   YORK. 


[West  Point. 


Uorsc-Ivace.  This  Quixotic  exploration 
has  at  least  proved  to  a  ccrtaiuty  that 
much  valuable  treasure  now  lies  buried 
here,  however  uncertain  the  matter  was 
before  1  At  Peekskill  the  river  makes  a 
sudden  turn  to  the  west,  wdiich  is  called 
the  race.  From  this  point  to  Newburg 
the  scenery  is  very  fine. 

The  HlgJdtvuls. — This  grand  mountain- 
group,  through  which  the  Hudson  now 
makes  its  way,  extends  from  northeast  to 
southwest,  over  an  area  of  about  16  by 
25  miles.  The  landscape  which  these 
noble  heights  and  their  picturesque  and 
changeful  forms  present  is  of  unrivalled 
magnilicence  and  beauty,  whether  seen 
from  their  rugged  summits  or  from  the 
river  gorges. 

Thus  says  Theodore  Fay  of  these 
scenes : 

"  By  wooded  blnflf  wo  steal,  by  leaning  lawn, 
By  palace,  village,  cot,  a  sweet  surprise 
At  every  turn  the  vision  breaks  upon, 
Till  to  our  wondering  and  uplifted  eyes 
The    Highland  rocks    and    hills    in    solemn 
grandeur  rise. 

"  IsTor  clouds  in  heaven,  nor  billows  in  the  deep 
More  graceful  shapes  did  ever  heave  or  roll ; 
Nor  came  such  pictures  to  a  painter's  sleep, 
Nor  beamed  such  vision  on  a  poet's  soul  I 
The  pent-up  Hood,  impatient  of  control, 
In  ag?s  past  here  laroke  its  granite  bound, 
Then  tj  the  sea  in  broad  meandei's  stole. 
While   ponderous  ruin   strewed   the  broken 

ground. 
And    these    gigantic   hills    for    ever   closed 

around." 

A7)thony''s  JS^ose  is  a  rocky  promontory 
on  our  right,  which  rises  to  the  height  of 
1,128  feet,  the  base  of  which  has  been 
tunnelled  by  the  railway  a  length  of  200 
feet.  Two  miles  above  is  Sugar  Loaf 
Mountain^  with  an  elevation  of  865  feet. 
Near  b}^,  and  reaching  far  out  into  the 
river,  is  a  sandy  bluff,  on  which  Fori  In- 
dependence once  stood.  Further  on  is 
Beverlij  Island,  and  in  the  extreme  dis- 
tance Bear  Mountain.  Forts  Clinton 
and  Montgomery,  taken  by  the  British 
troops,  after  traversing  the  Duuderberg 
mountain,  are  in  this  vicinity ;  and  so, 
too,  a  little  lake  called  Skinnipink  or 
Bloody  Pond,  where  a  disastrous  skirmish 
occurred  on  the  eve  of  the  capture  of  the 
forts,  and  the  consequent  opening  to  the 
enemy  of  the  passage  to  the  Highlands. 
On  this  (the  west)  side  of  the  river,  the 
Buttermilk  Falls    are    seen    descendino; 


over   inclined  ledges,  a  distance  of  100 

feet. 

In  the  heart  of  the  Highland  pass,  and 
just  below  West  Point,  on  the  west  bank, 
is  Cozzens\  a  spacious  and  elegant  sum- 
mer hotel,  which  comes  most  cliarmingly 
into  the  pictures  of  the  vicinity.  It  is 
accessible,  as  is  West  Point,  at  the  same 
time,  from  the  raihvay  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  river,  by  a  steam  ferry  from  Gar- 
rison^s  Station  (51  miles  from  New  York) 
between  Peekskill  below  and  Cold  Spring 
above.  The  concourse  of  sail  sometimes 
windlocked  in  the  angles  of  this  moun- 
tain-pass present  a  novel  sight. 

Constitution  Island,  with  the  rocky 
plateau  of  West  Point,  now  bars  our 
view  of  the  upper  portion  of  the 
Highland  passage.  Rounding  it,  we  come 
into  that  wonderful  reach  of  the  river, 
flanked  on  the  v/est  by  Crohiest  and  But- 
ter Hill,  or  Storm  King,  and  on  the  east, 
by  the  jagged  acclivities  of  Breakneck 
and  Bull  Hill,  with  the  pretty  village  of 
Cold  Spring  beneath.  Constitution  Isl- 
and, called,  prior  to  the  Revolution,  Mar- 
telear's  Rock,  was  fortified,  together  with 
West  Point,  in  lV'75-"76.  The  remains 
of  the  magazines  and  other  portions  of 
the  fort  are  still  standing. 

^Vest  I^oiifit.— Hotels,  The  West 
Point  (Roe's),  on  the  terrace,  and  Coz- 
zens'  below. 

West  Point  (51  miles),  as  w^ell  on  ac- 
count of  its  famous  military  school  and 
historical  associations,  as  for  its  varied  and 
uuique  scenic  attractions,  is  one  of  the 
most  charming  places  on  the  Hudson. 
The  hotels,  though  v^^ell  kept,  are  not 
large,  and  those  intending  to  make  a  stay 
there,  en  route  to  or  from  New  York, 
would  do  well  to  order  rooms  in  advance. 
Cozzens'  was  first  opened  in  1849,  since 
which  time  the  late  Lieutenant-General 
Scott  was  accustomed  to  make  it  his 
summer  headquarters.  The  best  months 
in  which  to  visit  West  Point  are  July 
and  August — not  only  for  viewing  the 
river  scenery,  which  is  extremely  luxuri- 
ant at  that  season,  but  on  account  of  the 
military  exercises,  better  known  as  "  exhi- 
bitions," in  which  all  the  cadets  join. 

The  United  States  Military  Academy, 
established  in  1802,  will  first  attract  the 
visitor's  attention.  The  buildings  em- 
brace the  barracks,  with  accommodation 

37 


West  Point.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[Cko'nest. 


for  250  cadets;  a  lar^^e  stone  building 
for  military  exercises,  a  laboratory,  obser- 
vatory, chapel,  hospital,  mess-room,  and 
officers'  quarters.  The  academy  is  of 
stone,  2  To  feet  long  by  15  feet  wide,  and 
three  stories  high.  The  land  belonging 
to  the  academy  or  post,  250  acres  in  ex- 
tent, was  ceded  by  New  York  to  the  Gen- 
eral Government  in  1826.  Among  the 
objects  of  interest  to  be  seen  in  and 
around  the  academy  buildings  are  some 
revolutionary  relics  and  cannon  captured 
in  the  Mexican  war,  and  a  brass  mortar 
taken  from  the  British  at  Stony  Point. 
27ie  cliapd  is  an  interesting  edifice,  ren- 
dered still  more  so  by  the  associations 
connecting  it  with  the  recent  demise  and 
obsequies  of  Lieutcnant-Gcneral  b'cott, 
who  died  at  West  Point,  May  29,  18GG. 
The  Parade- Gronnd^  on  band  afternoons, 
affords  a  characteristic  and  striking 
phase  of  West  Point  lii'c. 

Kosciiu'iko' s  Oardeti  and  Monument  are 
on  the  river  bank  near  the  parade-ground. 
The  walk  thither,  overhung  with  trees 
and  shrubbery,  is  known  as  Flirtation 
Walk:  The  monument  is  of  white  marble. 
It  was  erected  by  the  corps  of  cadets  in 
1828,  and  cost  $5,000.  Kear  Kosciusko's 
garden  is  a  fine  spring,  said  to  have  been 
discovered  by  Kosciusko  himself,  with 
seats  for  visitors.  The  remains  of  Forts 
Clmton,  Putnam,  Webb,  and  Wyllys,  are 
sometimes  visited.  From  the  ruins  of 
Putnam,  on  Mount  Independence,  GOO 
feet  above  the  river,  a  viev/  is  obtained 
which  will  well  repay  the  labor  of  reach- 
ing it.  The  visitor  will  delight  his  eye 
at  all  points,  whether  he  gaze  upon  the 
superb  panorama  of  the  river  as  he  sits 
upon  the  piazza  of  the  hotel  upon  the  pla- 
teau, or  as  he  looks  upon  the  scene  from 
the  yet  loftier  eminence  above,  crowned 
by  the  ruins  of  ancient  fortresses  ;  or 
strolls  amidst  the  interlacing  walks,  with 
new  vistas  of  beauty  and  fresh  memories 
of  a  gallant  gonc-by  at  cvciy  turn  and 
step.  A  mile  north  of  West  Point  is  the 
celel)ratcd  foundery  of  R.  P.  Parrott,  the 
inventor  of  the  Parrott  gun. 

llir  2\(>1>i)isov  or  Jid'crty  Hoiise,  oc- 
cupied by  Arnold  at  the  time  of  his 
meditated  treason,  and  whence  he  made 
his  escai)c  to  a  Pritish  vessel,  the 
*'  Vulture,"  lying  near  by  in  the  river,  is 
ou  the  opposite  (east)  bank,  at  the  foot 
38 


of  Sugar-Loaf  Mountain,  a  pleasant  drive 
of  four  or  five  miles  south  from  Cold 
Spring.  It  has  been  since  known  as  Ar- 
denia  Cold  Spri)}(/,  and  is  two  miles  north 
of  Garrison's  Station,  on  the  Hudson 
River  Railwav.  It  has  large  founderies 
and  machine-shops. 

Cro^nest  casts  its  broad  shadow  upon 
us  as  we  continue  our  voyage  up  from 
West  Point.  This  is  one  of  the  highest 
mountains  found  in  the  Highland  group. 
Its  height  is  1,428  feet. 

The  poet  Mon'is  has  happily  sung  the 
beauties  of  these  bold  cliffs  : 

''  "Where  Hudson's  waves  o'er  silvery  sands 
Wind  throu!.'h  the  ]iills  afar, 
And  Cro'uest  Mice  a  ruonarch  stands, 
Crowned  with  a  single  star," 

Cro'nest  is  the  scene  of  Rodman  Drake's 
poem  of  "  The  Culprit  Fay." 

This  picturesque  heiglit,  viewed  from 
the  deck  of  the  steamer  on  a  clear  sum- 
mer's night,  will  vividly  recall  to  the 
traveller's  mind  those  lines  of  the  poet : 

"  'Tis  the  middle  watch  of  a  summer's  night, — 
The  earth  is  dark,  but  the  heavens  are  bright; 
Kaught  is  seen  in  the  vault  on  high. 
But  the  moon,  and  th«  stars,  and  the  cloud- 

Iccs  sky. 
And  the  tiood  which  rolls  its  milky  hue, — 
A  river  of  light  on  the  welkin  blue. 
The  moon  looks  down  on  old  Crow  Xest, 
She  mellows  the  shade  on  his  shaggy  breast, 
And  seems  his  huge  gray  form  to  throw 
In  a  silver  cone  on  the  wave  below ; 
His  sides  are  broken  by  spots  of  shade, 
By  the  walnnt-boughs  and  the  cedar  made, 
And  through  their  clustering  branches  dark 
(ilimmers  and  dies  the  Jlretiy's  spark. 
Like  starry  twinkles  that  momently  break 
Through  the  rifts  of  the  gathering  tempest 

rack." 

J]ntier  IM  C' Botcrhev^'')  is  the  next 
mountain  crest,  and  the  last  of  the  High- 
land range  upon  the  west.  It  is  1,529 
feet  high. 

Petween  Cro'nest  and  Butter  Hill,  and 
in  the  laps  of  both,  is  a  lovely  valley,  re- 
plete with  forest  and  brook  beauties, 
called  Tcmpe. 

Cold  Sprinff  and  "  Undercliffy—QoU 
Spring  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque 
of  the  villages  of  the  Hudson,  whether 
seen  from  the  water  or  from  the  hills 
behind,  or  in  detail  amidst  its  little 
streets  and  villa  homes.  It  is  built  upon 
a  steep  ascent,  and  behind  it  is  the  mas- 


Newcuug.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[PoUGnKEEPSIE. 


sive  granite  crown  of  Bull  Hill.  This 
noble  mountain  overshadows  the  beauti- 
ful terrace  upon  which  the  late  lamented 
poet  Morris  lived  in  the  rural  seclusion 
of  "  Underdiff  "  for  many  3'ears.  It  is 
scarcely  possible  to  find  a  spot  of  sweeter 
natural  attractions  than  the  site  of  Un- 
derclilf,  looking  over  the  pretty  village 
to  the  castellated  hills  of  West  Point, 
across  the  blue  Hudson  to  old  Cro'ncst, 
or  northward  beyond  the  Newburg  Bay, 
to  the  far  away  ranges  of  the  Kaatskill. 

Beyond  Cold  Spring,  and  still  on  the 
east  bank  of  the  river,  the  Highland 
range  is  continued  in  the  jagged  preci- 
pices of  the  Breakneck  and  Beacon  Hills, 
in  height,  respectively,  1,187  and  1,G85 
feet.  These  mountains  are  among  the 
most  commanding  features  of  the  river 
scenery. 

Cornwall  Landing  is  a  rugged  and  pic- 
turesque little  place,  on  the  west  bank. 
Back  from  the  landing  is  the  pleasant 
village  of  Canierhurv. 

"l«llc^vilcl,"  Mr.  Willis's  roman- 
tic home,  occupies  a  lofty  plateau  above, 
and  north  of  the  village.  It  is  easily 
reached  by  either  the  Newburg  or  Corn- 
wall road. 

NeAi}  Windsor^  between  "  Idlewild  "  and 
Newburg,  and  once  the  rival  of  the  lat- 
ter, is  a  straggling  hamlet  of  Revolution- 
ary memory.  Washington  established 
his  headquarters  at  New  Windsor,  June 
23,  IVVO,  and  again  in  1*780.  His  resi- 
dence, a  plain  Dutch  house,  has  long 
since  passed  away,  as  has  also  the  famous 
"  Temple  of  Virtue."  At  Moodna,  two 
miles  back  of  the  landing,  is  a  large  paper- 
mill,  flum  Point,  on  the  west  side,  has 
some  residences. 

Between  New  Windsor  and  Newburg 
is  Cedar  Lawn,  the  homestead  of  the 
Rev.  J.  T.  Headley. 

Newl>in*g*,  with  a  population  of 
near  15,000,  and  its  social  and  topo- 
graphical attractions,  is  one  of  the 
largest  and  most  delightful  towns  on  the 
Hudson.  Rising,  as  it  does,  rather  pre- 
cipitously from  the  water  to  an  elevation 
of  300  feet,  it  presents  a  very  imposing 
front  to  the  voyager.  The  higher  grounds 
are  occupied  by  beautiful  residences  and 
villas.  The  place  was  originally  settled 
by  emigrant  Palatines  in  1798.  It  has 
immediate  railway  communication  west- 


ward up  the  Quassia  Creek,  via  Ches- 
ter (20  miles),  hy  the  Newburg  branch 
of  the  Erie  Railway.  It  is  a  place 
of  considerable  trade,  and  has  some 
extensive  manufactories.  The  home  of 
the  lamented  landscape  gardener  and 
horticultural  writer.  Downing,  was  here. 
Newburg  was  the  theatre  of  many  inter- 
esting events  in  the  war  of  the  Revo- 
lution. Washmffton^s  Headquarters,  an 
old  gray  stone  mansion,  built  by  Mr. 
Hasbrouck,  in  1750,  stand  a  short  dis- 
tance south  of  the  villao-e.  It  was  here  the 
Revolutionary  army  was  finally  disbanded 
at  the  close  of  the  war,  June  23,  1783. 
Apart  from  the  historical  interest  connect- 
ed with  the  site,  it  commands  a  fine  view 
of  the  great  pass  of  the  Highlands.  It  is 
owned  by  the  State.  The  principal  hotels 
are  iho.  Powelion  and  Orange.  The  Whar- 
ton House  was  used  during  the  Revolu- 
tion as  a  barracks.  Many  of  the  scenes 
in  Cooper's  novel  of  "  The  Spy  "  are  laid 
in  Newbui's;. 

Fishhill  Landing,  GO  miles  from  New 
York,  and  opposite  Newburg  ferry,  hke 
that  village  and  all  the  region  round, 
abounds  in  natural  beauties  and  elegant 
residences.  It  is  a  small  place,  with  a 
population  of  1,800.  It  lies  in  the  lap  of 
a  lovely,  fertile  plain,  which  reaches  back 
from  the  landing  to  the  base  of  a  bold 
mountain  range.  A  portion  of  the  Con- 
tinental army  was  encamped  here.  The 
village  of  FishJcill  is  situated  on  a  creek 
of  the  same  name,  five  miles  east  of  the 
river. 

Two  miles  northeast  of  Fishkill  Land- 
ing is  the  Verplanck  House,  interesting 
as  having  once  been  the  headquai'ters  of 
Baron  Steuben,  and  the  place  in  which 
the  famous  Society  of  the  Cincinnati  was 
organized  in  1783.  Ifatteaioan,  a  manu- 
facturing point,  is  about  a  mile  from  the 
landing. 

Low  Point,  three  miles  above  Fishkill 
Landing,  is  a  small  river  hamlet. 

Nevj  Hamburg  comes  next,  near  the 
mouth  of  Wappinger's  Creek,  and  a  little 
north  is  the  village  of  Marlborough,  with 
Barnegat,  famous  for  its  lime-kilns,  two 
miles  yet  beyond. 

B^osig-lalccepsie,  75  miles,  is  one 
of  the  largest  towns  between  New  York 
and  Albany.  Its  population  is  17,000.  It 
contains  about  20  churches,  four  banks, 


Kingston.] 


NEW  YOKE. 


[Kaatskill  Mountains. 


and  three  or  four  newspapers.  It  lias  a 
variety  of  manufiietorics  ;  and  the  rich 
agricultural  region  behind  it  makes  it  the 
depot  of  a  busy  trade.  College  JliJl^  the 
site  of  the  collegiate  institution,  half  a 
mile  northeast,  is  a  commanding  eleva- 
tion, overlooking  the  river  and  the  re- 
gion around. 

Poughkeepsie  was  founded  by  the 
Dutch  in  1705.  It  is  symmetrically  built 
upon  an  elevated  plain  lialf  a  mile  east  of 
the  river.  It  has  no  historical  associa- 
tions of  especial  interest.  Professor 
Morse,  the  inventor  of  the  electric  tele- 
graph, and  Benson  J.  Lossing,  author  of 
the  "Field  Book  of  the  Revolution,"  re- 
side here.  Tlie  Gregory  House  and  the 
Exchange  are  the  leading  hotels. 

Neiv  Paltz  Landing^  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river,  is  reached  by  ferry. 

ILide  Park,  80  miles  above  New  York, 
is  a  quiet  little  village  on  the  east  side  of 
the  river,  in  the  midst  of  a  country  of 
great  fertility,  and  thronged  wilh  wealthy 
homesteads  and  sumptuous  villas.  It  is 
named  after  Sir  Ethnund  Hyde,  Lord 
Conibury,  one  of  the  early  provincial 
governors.  Placentia,  once  the  home  of 
Paulding,  is  near  by,  and  commands  a 
magnificent  view  of  the  river  windings 
far  above,  even  to  the  peaks  of  the  dis- 
tant Kaatskills.  Siaafsburg  Is  upon  tlie 
raihvay,  five  miles  above. 

ISoiicloiiLt,  near  the  mouth  of  PiOn- 
dout  Creek,  is  the  terminus  of  the  Dela- 
ware and  Iludson  Canal,  and  connects 
witli  liliinebeck  by  ferry.  It  has  extensive 
manufactories  of  cement,  and  a  popula- 
tion of  7,500,  chiefly  Germans  and  Irisli. 

fi^in;>'sloiB,  two  miles  above  Pon- 
duut,  is  a  thriving  and4:)leasant  place.  It 
was  settled  by  the  Dutch  (1063),  about 
the  time  of  the  settlement  of  Albany  ;ind 
New  York.  It  was  burnt  by  the  British 
(1777).  Tlie  first  Constitution  of  New 
York  was  framed  and  adopted  in  a  house 
still  .standing  Ikm-c.  It  was  the  birth- 
place of  Vanderlyn  the  painter.  He  died 
here  in  1853. 

Jxhimbcck  Zandlvg,  90  miles  from  New 
York,  is  on  the  railway  o]»posite  Kings- 
ton, and  is  connected  with  tluit  vilhige  by 
a  ii  rry.  The  river  presents  some  attrac- 
tive views  at  this  point.  The  village  of 
lihlnthcck  is  two  miles  back  from  the 
landing.  It  was  founded  by  William 
40 


Beekman  in  1C47.  The  Beekman  Home 
is  one  of  the  best  specimens  of  an  old 
Dutch  homestead  to  be  found  in  the  val- 
ley of  the  Iludson.  The  Exchange  Hotel 
has  accommodation  for  visitors. 

Scmgertiea  and  Tivoli,  the  one  on  the 
west  and  the  other  on  the  east  bank  of 
the  river,  next  attract  our  attention. 
Saugerties  is  a  picturesque  and  pros- 
perous manufacturing  village,  at  the 
dihoiiche  of  the  beautiful  waters  of 
Esopus  Creek.  Bokehg,  the  estate  of 
Win.  B.  Astor,  Esq.,  is  a  short  distance 
south  of  Barrytov.n.  Between  Barrytown 
and  Tivoli  are  Annandcde  and  Monigonury 
Place,  the  seats  of  John  Bard  and  Edward 
LivinQSton. 

Passing  Maiden,  on  the  left  and  Gcr- 
tnantovm  on  the  right  bank,  we  reach 
Oakhill  Station,  the  point  of  departure 
on  the  Hudson  Piver  Pailway  for  Kaats- 
kill. Opposite  Maiden  stands  Clermont, 
the  scat  of  the  late  Chancellor  Livings- 
ton. 

Kaafskill,  or  CatakUl,  lies  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Kaatskill  Creek,  on  the  wcs^t  bank 
of  the  Iludson.  The  site  of  the  town  is 
somewhat  elevated,  and  commands  ex- 
tensive views  of  the  river  and  distant 
hills.  The  banks  of  the  creek  abound 
in  varied  and  attractive  scenery,  and  are 
annually  the  resort  of  city  artists,  bent 
on  obtaining  fresh  studies.  Here  the 
lamented  Cole  painted  his  "  Course  of 
Empire"  and  "Voyage  of  Life."  Here, 
too,  Charles  Moore  resides  ;  and  Thomas 
Nast,  the  spirited  artist  of  "  Harper's 
Weekly,"  and  others,  have  also  taken  up 
a  temporary  residence  in  the  village.  The 
H>/ibo7i  Piver  Home,  by  J.  T.  Huntley, 
affords  excellent  accommodation  for  those 
visiting  Kaatskill  village.  The  Caiskill 
House,  opposite  the  stage-office,  is  also  a 
well-kept  house. 


THE  KAATSKILL  MOUXTAIXS. 

To  reach  the  Kaatskills  from  New  York 
we  will  follow  our  previous  routes  up  the 
Hudson  to  the  village  of  Kiiatskiil  (111 
miles),  or  the  railway  to  Oakhill  Station 
opposite,  crossing  thence  to  Kaatskill  by 
ferry.  Time  from  New  York  to  the  3Ioun- 
taiii  House  eight  to  nine  hours.  Immediate 
connection  between  the  landing  and  the 


Kaatskill  Mountains.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[Kaateuskill  Falls. 


mountains  by  Beach's  stage  line.  Fare, 
$1.  The  Kaatskills  arc  a  part  of"  the  great 
Appahichiau  chain,  which  extends  through 
the  eastern  portion  of  the  Union  from 
Canada  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Their 
chief  ranges  follow  the  course  of  the  Hud- 
son River  for  20  to  30  miles,  lying  west 
of  it,  and  separated  by  a  valley  stretch 
of  10  to  12  miles.  These  peaks  lend  to 
the  landscape  of  that  part  of  the  Hudson 
from  which  they  are  visible  its  greatest 
charm,  llie  Mountain  House  is  reached 
by  a  pleasant  stage-coach  ride,  which 
usually  occupies  three  hours.  Blooni's 
Half-way  House  affords  refreshment  for 
stage  passengers.  Two  miles  from  the 
summit  the  coach  stops  at  Sleepy  Hol- 
low, a  spot  usually  conceded  to  be  the 
site  of  Rip  Van  Winkle's  famous  nap. 
Here  a  house  of  refreshment  has  recently 
been  built ;  it  is  known  as  the  "  Rip  Yan 
Winkle  House,"  and  is  kept  by  Mr.  Ira 
Saxe.  The  Mountain  House  is  an  excel- 
lent one,  combining  all  the  comforts  and 
many  of  the  luxuries  of  more  pretentious 
establishments.  Its  original  cost  was 
$20,000,  and  it  has  been  repeatedly  en- 
larged and  improved.  Charles  L.  Beach 
is  the  proprietor.  The  last  three  miles 
of  the  journey  to  the  hotel  is  up  the  side 
of  the  mountain,  made  easy  by  a  good 
winding  way.  Moses  Rock. — The  path 
leading  to  this  retired  spot  is  passed  on 
the  left  of  the  road,  a  short  distance 
south  of  the  hotel.  A  most  superb  view 
is  had  from  the  piazza  of  the  Hudson 
River  and  valley,  and  of  the  mountain 
ranges  of  Xew  England  in  the  distance. 
Sunrise  on  the  Catskills,  as  seen  from  the 
Mountain  House.,  has  been  thus  poetically 
described  by  an  old  Knickerbocker  con- 
tributor : 


"  Then  rouse  ye  up  its  kind  approacli  to  ?reet, 
"With  sunrise  on  the  mountain-tops,  and  stay, 
To  mark  how  all  that's  glorious,  fair,  and  sweet, 
Comes  forth   revealed  by  the  bright  god  of 
day ; 
And  as  upon  the  magic  scene  you  gaze, 
It  seems  Tlis  own  creation  strikes  you  with 
amaze. 

As  we  from  this  proud  height  the  earth  behold, 
Ushered  into  his  i)resenco  ;  and  the  flash 

Of  his  first  beams,  reveals  an  outline  bold, 
The  distant  hills  imprinted  at  one  dash, 

In  dark  relief  upon  the  glowing  sky, 

To  fade  there  through  each  shade  o    blue 
till  evening  die. 


In  favorable  weather  the  cities  of  Albany 
and  Troy  can  be  seen  with  the  aid  of  a 
good  glass. 

North  Mountain  furnishes  a  pleasant 
ramble  for  the  visitor  at  the  Mountain 
House ;  the  best  view  is  obtained  from 
Table  Rock,  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
north  of  the  hotel.  South  Mountain  is 
another  favorite  ramble,  commanding  a 
view  of  the  KaaterskiU  Pass.  The  Two 
Lakes,  north  and  south,  are  reached  in  a 
short  stroll  from  the  hotel,  being  on  the 
direct  road  to  the  falls.  They  afford 
good  fishing. 

The  KaaterskiU  or  High  Falls  are 
two  miles  west  of  the  Mountain  House, 
easily  reached  by  stage,  or  boat  on  the 
lake.  The  Laurel  House  commands  an 
excellent  view  of  the  falls,  and  of 
Round  Top  and  High  Peak.,  in  the 
immediate  neighborhood.  The  descent 
of  the  first  cascade  is  180  feet,  and 
of  the  second  80  feet ;  below  these  is 
another  fall  of  40  feet,  making  the  to- 
tal descent  300  feet.  The  KaaterskiU 
has  a  devious  and  rapid  course  of  eight 
miles  to  the  Kaatskill,  near  the  village. 
To  see  the  falls  to  the  best  advant;;ge, 
the  visitor  should  descend  the  windmg 
stairs  leading  from  the  platform  of  the 
hotel,  and  spend  an  hour  or  tv/o  in  ex- 
ploring the  gorge  and  glen  below.  Re- 
freshments, if  desired,  can  be  supplied 
from  the  dizzy  height  by  means  of  bas- 
ket and  rope.  Mr.  Scutt,  the  proprietor 
of  the  falls,  resides  at  the  Laurel  House, 
and  personally  provides  for  the  wants  of 
visitors.  Guides  to  the  falls  and  to  the 
neighboring  Cloves  are  furnished  at  the 
Laurel  House ;  a  charge  of  25  cents  is 
made  to  each  passenger  for  showing  the 
falls.  Livery  can  also  be  obtained  at 
reasonable  prices. 

Fenimore  Cooper,  in  his  story  of  "  The 
Pioneer,"  thus  describes  these  cascades : 
"  The  water  comes  croaking  and  Avind- 
ing  among  the  rocks,  first,  so  slow  that 
a  trout  might  swim  in  it,  then  starting 
and  running  like  any  creature  that 
wanted  to  make  a  fair  spring,  till  it 
gets  to  where  the  mountain  divides 
hke  the  cleft  foot  of  a  deer,  leaving 
a  deep  hollow  for  the  brook  to  tumble 
into.  The  first  pitch  is  nigh  200  feet, 
and  the  water  looks  like  flakes  of  snow 
before  it  touches  the  bottom,  and  then 

41 


Kaaterskill  Falls.] 


XEW  YORK. 


[Hudson. 


gathers  itself  together  again  for  a  new 
start ;  and  may  be  flutters  over  50   feet 
of  flat  rock  before  it  falls  for  another  1 00 
feet,  when  it  jumps  from   shelf  to  shelf, 
first   running   this   way   and   that   way, 
striving  to  get  out  of  the  hollow,  till  it 
finally  "gets  to  the  plain."     This  branch 
of  the  Kaaterskill  comes  from  the  waters 
of  the  two  lakes  on  the  plateau  above ; 
and,  as  the   supply  has  to  be  economized 
in  order  that  the  cascades  may  look  their 
best    when    they    have    company,    the 
stream  is  dammed,  and  the  flood  islet  on 
at   proper   times    only.     V/e   have   now 
peeped  at  all  the  usual  "  sights  "  of  the 
region ;  but  there  are  other  chapters  of 
beauty,  perhaps,  yet  more  inviting.     Let 
the  tourist,  if  he  be  adventurous  and  is  a 
true   lover  of  Kature,  follow  the   brook 
down  from  the  base  of  the  cataracts  we 
have  just   descril)ed,  into  the  principal 
clove ;    then   let   him    ascend   the   main 
stream  for  a  mile   over  huge  boulders, 
through   rank  woods,  and  many  by-cas- 
cades, which,  if  smaller,  are   still   more 
picturesque  than  those  "nominated    in 
the   bond ; "    or,    let   him    descend    the 
creek  two  miles,  sometimes  by  the  edge 
of  the  bed  of  the  waters,  and  when  that 
is    impracticable,  by  the  turnpike  road, 
which  traverses  the  great  clove  or  pass. 
At  every  turn  and  step  there  will  be  a 
new  picture — sometimes  a  unique  rapid 
or  fall,  sometimes   a   soaring  mountain 
cliff,  sometimes  a  rude  bridge  across  the 
foaming  torrent,  sometimes   a  little  hut 
or  cottage,  and,  at  last,  as  he  comes  out 
toward  the  valley  on  the  east,  the  humble 
village  of  Palenville.     This   portion   of 
the  Kaatskills  is  that  most  preferred  by 
artists  for  study,  and.  the  inns  at  Palen- 
ville are  often  occupied  by  them,  though 
they  offer   but  little  inducement   to  the 
case  and  comfort  loving  tourist  to  tarry. 

Another  nice  excursion  from  the 
^louTitain  House  is  a  ride  along  the  ridge 
five  or  six  miles,  to  the  entrance  of  the 
Stony  Clove  (Boar's  Gaj)).  and  thence 
through  the  wilderness  of  this  fine  pass. 
The  Mouulain  Home,  at  Tanncrsville,  by 
(jliay  and  Mull'ord,  is  a  desirable  stop- 
ping-place for  visitors  to  this  re;:ion. 

Jl'iilh  Peak,  tlie  most  elevated  of  the 

Kaatskill    sunimils,    towering   4,000  feet 

high,  should  certaiidy  be  climbed,  in  order 

to  see  the  reirion  fairly.     It  is  six  miles 

42 


west  of  the  Mountain  House,  is  a  long 
and  toilsome  journey  for  m.any,  but  it 
well  repays  for  the  labor  of  reaching  it. 
The  Mountain  House,  seen  from  High 
Peak,  looks  like  a  pigmy  in  the  vale. 

Plantcrim  Clove  is  another  grand  pass 
on  the  hills,  five  miles  below  the  Kaat- 
erskill passage.  A  moimtain  torrent, 
full  of  beauties  in  glen,  and  rock,  and 
cascade,  winds  through  it.  The  tourist 
here  will  recall  Bryant's  hncs  : 

"  Midst  greens  and  shades  the  Katterskill  leaps 
From  clilTs  where  the  wood-flower  ciinps ; 

All  Slimmer  he  moistens  his  verdant  steeps 
With  the  light  spray  of  the  mountain  springs  ; 

And  he  shakes  thewcods  on  the  moimtain  side, 

"When  they  drip  with  the  rains  of  the  autumn 
tide. 

"  But  when,  in  the  forest  hare  and  old, 

The  blast  of  December  calls, 
lie  builds  in  the  starlight,  clear  and  cold, 

A  palace  of  ice  where  his  torrent  falls, 
TVith  turret,  and  arch,  and  fretwork  fair, 
And  pillars  clear  as  the  summer  air." 

Mr.  T.  Addison  Eichards,  the  artist,  thus 
writes  of  the  winter  aspect  of  these  falls  : 
"  The  cataracts  of  the  Catskills  in  win- 
ter, when  the  spray  is  frozen  into  a  myr- 
iad fantastic  forms,  all  glowing  like  the 
prism,  as  the  clear  cold  sunlight  reveals 
these  mystical  wonders,  is  a  sight  so 
grand  and  novel  as  to  well  repay  the  ex- 
posure and  Ititigue  of  a  visit  thither 
through  bleak  January's  snows  and  ice." 

To  visit  the  Kaatskills  comfortably, 
three  days  will  sufiice  for  the  journey 
thence  by  rail  from  New  York,  for  the 
stay  and  the  return  to  the  city.  Xot  less 
than  four,  however,  ought  to  be  thus  in- 
vested, if  one  would  make  sure  of  a  satis- 
factory dividend  ;  and  if  a  week  is  at 
command,  so  much  the  happier  he  who 
commands  it. 

I1 11  4l  ^  o  11 , — Hotels,  the  Ilvdson 
House,  Korlli  Jloiife. — Passing  3/ovvt 
Merino,  about  four  miles  above  Kaatskill, 
the  city  of  Hudson,  115  miles  from  New 
York,  is  next  reached.  H  was  settled  in 
1781,  by  Quakers  from  New  Knglaud. 
The  main  street  (Warren),  whieh  runs 
through  the  heait  of  the  city  from  east 
to  west,  teiminatos  at  the  river  extrem- 
ity in  a  ])leasant  littk'  iiark  called  Prome- 
nade JJiV,  on  a  bold  promontory,  rising 
abruptly  00  feet  above  the  water;  while 
the  other  terminus  climbs  to  the  foot  of 
Prospect  JliU,  an   elevation  of  200  feet. 


Athens.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[Alhany. 


From  these  heights  the  views  of  the  Ka.itg- 
kills,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Hudson 
River,  and  of  the  river  and  city  of  Hud- 
son, are  incomparably  fine.  It  is  at  the 
head  of  sloop  navigation  on  the  river.  It 
contains  a  fine  court-house  of  marble, 
several  elegant  church  edifices,  and  a 
Female  Seminary,  which  occupies  the  for- 
mer Lunatic  Asylum.  It  is  the  terminus 
of  the  Hudson  and  Boston  Railway. 
Fopulation,  12,000. 

jS'ew  Lebanon  Springs  have  fine  me- 
dicinal properties,  and  are  much  resorted 
to  during  the  summer  months.  The  route 
thither  from  Hudson  is  by  the  Hudson 
and  Boston  Railroad  to  Canaan,  and 
theace  by  stage.  The  manufacture  of 
thermometers  and  barometers  is  exten- 
sively cari-ied  on  here.  Cohcmbia  Hall 
is  liie  best  hotel.  The  Shaker  Village^ 
with  its  unique  features  of  social  life,  is 
Vv^orth  visiting.  The  settlement  is  two 
miles  from  the  Springs,  and  is  situated  in 
a  charming  valley,  richly  skirted  by 
woods.  The  Herberr/  for  the  vegetable 
curing  process,  in  which  the  Shakers  are 
so  proficient,  and  many  of  the  farms,  are 
well  worth  the  attention  of  strangers. 
(See  Lebanon  Springs.) 

Columbia  Springs^  five  miles  from  Hud- 
son, is  a  summer  resort  of  great  value  to 
invalids,  and  of  interest  to  all.  The  Clav- 
erack  Falls^  some  eight  miles  off,  should 
not  be  overlooked  by  the  visitor. 

Athens,  is  a  little  village  with  a  pop- 
ulation of  2,000,  directly  opposite  Hud- 
son, and  connected  with  it  by  a  steam 
ferry. 

Stockport  and  Coxsackie  are  bustling 
and  thriving  little  places  immediately  be- 
yond Athens. 

Kinderhook  Landing. — The  village  of 
Kinderhook,  about  five  miles  east  of  the 
landing,  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  is 
the  birthplace  of  Martin  Van  Buren,  the 
eighth  President  of  the  United  States. 
His  estate  of  "  Lindenwald,"  where  he 
spent  the  last  years  of  his  life,  is  situated 
two  miles  south  of  the  village.  New 
Baltimore  and  Coeipnans,  are  now  passed 
on  the  left,  and  Schodack  and  Casileton 
on  the  right.  Two  miles  below  Albany, 
at  a  place  called  Renwood,  is  an  immense 
stone  dike,  built  by  the  government  in 
1832,  at  the  cost  of  a  quarter  million 
dollars. 


Albany. — Hotels,  the  Dclavan 
House,  Slanwix  Hall. 

Albany  was  founded  by  the  Dutch, 
first  as  a  trading-post,  on  Castle  Island, 
directly  below  the  site  of  the  present  city, 
in  1G14.  Fort  Orange  was  built  where 
the  town  now  stands,  in  1623  ;  and,  next 
to  Jamestown  in  Virginia,  was  the  ear- 
liest European  settlement  in  the  original 
thirteen  States.  The  town  was  known 
as  Beaver  Wyck,  and  as  Williamstadt, 
before  it  received  its  present  name  in 
honor  of  James,  duke  of  York  and  Al- 
bany, afterward  James  the  Second,  at 
the  period  when  it  fell  into  British  pos- 
session, 1664.  It  was  chartered  in  1686, 
and  made  State  capital  in  1798.  It  is 
divided  into  10  wards,  and  had  a  popula- 
tion in  1865  of  about  75,000.  It  has  a 
large  commerce  from  its  position  at 
the  head  of  sloop  navigation  and  tide- 
water upon  the  Hudson,  as  the  entrepot 
of  the  great  Erie  Canal  from  the  v;est, 
and  the  Champlain  Canal  from  the  north, 
and  as  the  centre  to  which  many  routes 
and  lines  of  travel  converge.  The  boats 
of  the  canal  are  received  in  a  grand  basin 
constructed  in  the  river,  with  the  help  of 
a  pier  80  feet  wide  and  4,300  feet  long. 

Albany,  seen  from  some  points  on  the 
river,  makes  a  very  fine  appearance,  the 
ground  rising  westward  from  the  low 
flats  on  the  shore  to  an  elevation  of 
some  220  feet.  State  Street  ascends  in 
a  steep  grade  from  the  water  -to  the 
height  crowned  by  the  State  capitol. 
The  water-works,  built  1852  and  '53,  at  a 
cost  of  one  million  dollars,  are  worth  see- 
ing. 

Among  the  public  buildings  are  the 
Capitol,  the  State  House,  the  City  Hall, 
the  Hospital,  the  Fcnitcntiary  (a  model 
prison),  the  Alms- House,  and  more  than 
50  church  edifices.  Of  the  latter,  the  ca- 
thedral [I)nmacidate  Conception),  on  Ea- 
gle Street,  and  the  Church  of  St.  Joseph, 
on  Ten  Broeck  Street,  corner  of  Second, 
are  the  most  prominent  structures.  The 
cathedral  has  sittings  for  4,000  and  a 
powerful  organ.  The  stained  windows, 
by  Gibson,  of  New  York,  are  among  (he 
finest  specimens  of  art  in  the  country. 
The  Capitol  occupies  the  west  side  of  the 
public  square,  the  State  House  and 
City  Hall    the  east      The    latter,  com- 

43 


Greenbush.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[Troy. 


pleted  December,  1 832,  is  built  of  marble, 
8urmo\mted  by  a  dome,  from  Avhicli  a  fine 
view  is  obtained.  The  State  Library,  ad- 
joining the  Capitol,  has  upward  of  00,000 
volumes.  The  JDudley  Observatory^  found- 
ed ))y  the  munificence  of  Mrs.  Bhmdina 
Dudley,  was  erected  at  a  cost  of  -$25,000, 
and  lias  been  further  endov>''ed  to  the 
amount  of  $100,000.  It  stands  on  Ob- 
servatory Hill,  near  the  northern  limits. 
The  State  Arsenal^  on  Eagle  Street,  is  a 
large  gloomy  structure,  in  the  castellated 
style.  The  University  of  Albany  was  incor- 
porated in  1852.  The  Law  Department 
is  now  one  of  the  best  in  the  Union.  The 
Medical  College^  which  was  founded  in 
1839,  is  a  prosperous  establishment,  with 
an  extensive  Museum.  The  State  Nor- 
mal School  was  organized  successfully  in 
1844,  for  "  the  education  and  practice  of 
teachers  of  common  schools  in  the  sci- 
ence of  education  and  the  art  of  teach- 
ing." The  Albany  Institute^  organized, 
1791,  for  scientific  advancement,  has  a 
library  of  9,000  volumes.  Admission 
through  a  member.  The  Young  Meri's 
Association,  38  State  Street,  has  a  collec- 
tion of  12,000  volumes  ;  the  Ap2'>rentices' 
Library,  5,000.  The  edifice  on  State 
Street  whera  are  deposited  the  public 
collections  in  Natural  History,  and  in 
Geology  and  in  Agriculture,  is  most  in- 
teresting. The  Orphan  Asylum  and 
other  benevolent  establishments  of  this 
city,  are  well  worth  the  consideration  of 
tlie  tourist.  The  distinguished  sculptor, 
E.  C.  I'almer,  resides  here.  His  studio. 
No.  5  Fayette  Place,  is  frequently  visited 
by  strangers.  Portions  of  the  Van  Rens- 
selaer Mansion,  built  in  1705,  and  the 
Schnyhr  House,  built  on  the  site  of  the 
original  house  in  which  Peter  Schuyler, 
the  first  mayor  of  the  city,  lived,  arc  still 
standing. 

Greenbush,  the  former  terminus  of  the 
Hudson  Kiver  Railway,  is  immediately 
opposite.  It  is  now  connected  witli  Al- 
bany l)y  l)riilge.  It  is  incorporated,  and 
includes  Jiath  and  East  Albany.  Popula- 
tion, 4,000. 

Trains  leave  Albany  for  New  York,  by 
the  Hudson  lliver  and  H.ulcm  Railways, 
almost  hourly  ;  for  the  west  by  the  Cen- 
tral, and  for  Boston  by  the  Western 
(Mass.)  Railway,  several  times  each  day. 
For  Saratoga  and  the  north,  one  express 
44 


through  train  leaves  early  in  the  morn- 
ing. Day  boats  down  the  Hudson  at 
7^  A.  M.,  and  night  boats  at  8  p.  m.  To 
Kaatskill,  steamers  daily. 

'I'l'oy. — Hotels,  American  Hotel, 
Jfansion  House,  Troy  House.  Troy  is  a 
large  and  beautiful  city  of  60,000  inhab- 
itants, including  suburban  settlements. 
It  stands  upon  both  banks  of  the  Hud- 
son, at  the  mouth  of  the  Poestenkill 
Creek,  151  miles  from  New  York^  and  six 
from  Albany.  It  is  built  upon  an  allu- 
vial plain,  overlooked  on  the  east  side  by 
the  classic  heights  of  Mount  Ida,  and  on 
the  north  by  the  barren  cliffs  of  Mount 
Olympus,  200  feet  high.  These  elevated 
points  command  superb  views  of  the  city 
and  its  charming  vicinage,  and  of  the 
great  waters  of  the  Hudson.  Troy  Hes 
along  the  river  for  the  length  of  three 
miles,  and  extends  back  a  mile  from  east 
to  west.  It  boasts  many  fine  churches 
and  public  buildings,  and  several  hand- 
some private  mansions  and  cottages : 
among  the  former  the  Episcopal  churches 
of  St.  Paul  and  St.  John  are  best  worthy 
notice.  The  Female  Seminary,  estab- 
lished in  1821,  and  the  Rensselaer  Poly- 
technic Instilitle,  are  flourishing  institu- 
tions. It  has  extensive  manufactures, 
and  enjoys  a  large  and  growing  trade  by 
river  and  rail.  Pour  main  lines  of  rail- 
way meet  at  this  point,  viz. :  the  Hudson 
River,  the  Troy  and  Boston,  the  Schenec- 
tady and  Troy,  and  the  Saratoga  and 
Rensselaer  roads,  which  are  united  in 
one  depot  by  means  of  the  Union  (city) 
Railroad.  Cars  leave  Troy  for  Green- 
bush (six  miles)  every  hour.  Stages  to 
Albany,  Cohocs,  Lansingburg,  and  va- 
rious neighboring  points. 

West  Troy,  a  suburb  of  Troy,  on  the 
other  side  of  the  river,  is  a  rapidly  growing 
place.  The  inhabitants  are  employed  prin- 
cipally in  manufactures.  A  fine  macad- 
amized road  leads  from  West  Troy  to  Al- 
bany, a  distance  of  six  miles.  Horse  cars 
to  Albany  every  fifteen  minutes.  The 
Watervlid  ( U.  S.)  Arsenal,  in  West 
Troy,  has  a  large  and  constant  supply  of 
small-arms,  and  various  nnuiiticns  of  war. 
This  is  one  of  the  most  important  of 
tiie  national  depots,  and  is  worthy  the 
attention  of  tlie  traveller.  It  was  built 
in  1814,  and  occupies  100  acres  of 
ground. 


Green    Island    Village,    near 


EOCTE  III.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[Lake  Maiiopac. 


West  Troy,  has  an  extensive  car  and 
coach  factory.  Oakwood  and  Mount  Ida 
Coacterks  are  worth  visiting.  The  for- 
mer is  in  Lansingburg,  and  occupies  a 
beautiful  site  overlooking  the  city. 

This  route  may  very  profitably  be,  and 
generally  is,  extended  to  Saratoga  and 
Lakes  Champlain  and  George,  and  even 
to  Montreal ;  but  these  and  other  points 
en  route  thither,  will  be  found  in  their 
appropriate  places,  on  reference  to  the 
Index. 

MOUTE  III. 

NEW   YORK    TO   ALBANY. 
(Via  N.  Y.  S  EarUm  Railroad.) 

This,  route  extends  from  the  heart  of 
the  city  of  New  York  to  the  State  capital, 
skirting  in  its  course  the  eastei-n  portions 
of  all  those  counties  lying  upon  the  Hud- 
son and  traversed  by  the  river  railway. 
The  distance  between  the  termini  is  154 
miles,  four  miles  longer  than  that  of  the 
Hudson  River.  The  stations  and  towns 
upon  the  Harlem  road  are,  for  the  most 
part,  inconsiderable  places,  many  of  them 
having  grown  up  with  the  road.  The 
country  passed  through  is  varied  and 
picturesque  in  surface,  and  much  of  it  is 
rich  agricultural  laud.  It  does  not  com- 
pare with  the  river  route  in  scenic  attrac- 
tions. 

StatioIxS.— Twenty-sixth  Street  Sta- 
tion; Forty-second  Street,  3|  miles; 
Harlem,  7  ;  Mott  Haven,  8  ;  Melrose,  9  ; 
Morrisania,  10;  Tremont,  11;  Fordham, 
12;  Williams  Bridge,  14  (Junction  of 
the  New  York  and  New  Haven  Road) ; 
Bronxville,  18;  Tuckahoe,  19  ;  Scarsdale, 
22;  Hart's  Corners,  24;  White  Plains, 
26  ;  Kensico,  29  ;  Unionville,  31  ;  Pleas- 
antville,  34  ;  Chapequa,  36  ;  Mount  Kisco, 
40 ;  Bedford,  42 ;  Katonah,  45 ;  Golden 
Bridge,  47 ;  Purdy's,  49 ;  Croton  Falls, 
51 ;  Brewster's,  55;  Dykman's,  58;  Tov>^- 
ner's,  61  ;Paterson's,  63;  Pawling's,  67; 
South  Dover,  73  ;  Dover  Furnace,  76 ; 
Dover  Plains,  80 ;  Wassaic,  84 ;  Amenia, 
88  ;  Sharon  Station,  91 ;  Millerton,  96  ; 
Mount  Riga,  99;  Boston  Corners,  103; 
Copake,  108;  Hillsdale,  112;  Bains,  115; 
Martindale,  118  ;  Philniont,  122 ;  Ghent, 
128;  Cliatham  Fom-  Corners,  131  (Junc- 


tion with  rail\7ay  route  from  Albany  and 
from  Hudson  for  Boston);  East  Albany, 
154  miles,  connects  with  Troy  and  (Jreen- 
bush  Railroad. 

On  leaving  the  city  streets,  the  road 
passes  under  a  considerable  extent  of 
tunnelling  and  continued  bridging;  acrosa 
thorouglifares,  and  reaches  the  extremity 
of  tlie  island  and  city  of  New  York  at 
Harlem,  where  it  crosses  the  Harlem 
River  into  Westchester  County. 

Wldte  Plalna^  26  miles,  is  interesting 
as  the  scene  of  important  events  in  tlie 
Revolution.  An  eventful  battle  was 
fought  here,  October  28,  1776.  A  resi- 
dence of  Washington  (in  which  are  some 
attractive  relics)  is  yet  standing  in  the 


vicmage. 


Croton  FalJs^  51  miles,  upon  the  river 
which  supplies  the  great  Croton  Aqueduct 
to  the  city  of  New  York,  are  worth  see- 
ing. Passengers  for  Lake  Mahopac^  five 
miles  distant,  take  stage  here. 

lL(0.1ie  Mjalttopjjc. — Hotels,  Gre- 
(jori/''s,  Baldwiii's^  and  Tltompsoii^s.  This 
pleasant  summer  resort  lies  in  the  west- 
ern part  of  the  town  of  Carmcl,  Putnam 
County.  The  lake  is  nine  miles  in  cir- 
cumference, and  is  about  1,800  feet  above 
the  sea.  It  is  one  of  the  principal  sources 
of  supply  to  the  Croton.  Though  the 
landscape  has  no  very  bold  features,  and 
but  little  to  detain  the  artist,  yet  its  quiet 
waters,  its  prstty  ^vooded  islands,  the  ro- 
mantic resorts  in  its  vicinage,  the  throngs 
of  pleasure-seeking  strangers,  the  boating 
and  fishing,  and  other  rural  sports,  make 
it  a  most  agreeable  spot  for  either  a  brief 
visit  or  a  long  residence.  There  are  many 
attractive  localities  of  hill  and  water 
scenery  around  Maiiopac.  The  pleasant 
hotels  are  well  filled  during  the  season  by 
boai-ders  or  by  passing  guests.  It  is  a 
nice  retreat  to  those  whose  business  in 
the  great  city  below  forbids  their  wander- 
ing far  away. 

Dover  JPIains,  20  miles  east  of  Pough- 
keepsie,  and  80  from  New  York,  is  sur- 
rounded by  much  pleasing  landscape. 
(For  Albany  and  Troy,  and  routes  thence 
by  Hudson  River  and  railways,  see  In- 
dex.) A  pleasant  short  tour  may  be 
made  by  taking  this  route  to  Troy  or 
Albany,  and  returning  by  the  Hudson 
River,  visiting  the  Kaatskills  and  West 
Point  on  the  way  back.     From  Albany 

45 


Saratoga  Springs.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[Saratoga. 


the  most  pleasant  and  popular  route  is 
that  to  Saratoga  and  nciglil)oring  springs 
and  the  lakes,  which  we  shall  next  give. 


HOUTE  IV, 

ALBANY  TO    SARATOGA  AND    LAKE 
GEORGE. 

Via  Rensselaer  ami  Sai^atoga  {Consolidated) 
Railway. 

Stations. — Troy  Union  Depot ;  Green 
Island,  1  mile ;  NVaterford,  4 ;  Albany 
Junction,  6  ;  Meehanicsville,  12  ;  Ballston, 
25 ;  Saratoga,  32  ;  Gansevoort,  48  ;  Mo- 
reau,  49 ;  Fort  Edward,  52 ;  Dunham's 
Basin,  57;  Smith's  Basin,  61;  Fort  Anne, 
65 ;  Comstock's  Landing,  71 ;  Junction, 
73  ;  Lake  Champlain  Junction,  77  ;  Fair- 
haven,  79  ;  Hvdeville,  81  ;  Castleton,  84  ; 
West  Kutland,  91 ;  Eutland,  95. 

ISallstoii  Spiiisupon  theKayade- 
rosseros  Creek,  a  small  stream  which 
flows  through  the  village,  25  miles  from 
Troy  and  7  miles  from  Saratoga  Springs. 
Its  mineral  waters,  which  were  discovered 
in  1769,  are  celebrated  for  their  medicinal 
qualities,  although  not  so  popular  as  they 
were  formerly,  those  of  Saratoga  being 
now  generally  preferred.  A  flourishing- 
seminary  has  been  established  near  the 
centre  of  the  village  on  the  site  of  the 
former  Satis  Sovci  Hotel.  The  village  has 
railway  connection  with  Schenectad}^,  dis- 
tant 15  miles.  Long  Lake,  a  famous  fish- 
ing resort,  is  five  miles  distant. 

^arstlog'a,  Springs. — Hotels  : 
the  most  desirable  hotels  remaining  at 
Saratoga  are  the  bunion  JIall  and  the  Cla- 
rendon. The  United  States  and  Congms 
Hall  were  destroyed  by  fire,  the  former  in 
1865,  the  latter  in  1866.  Besides  these 
houses,  there  ai^e  many  of  less  fashion  and 
price,  besides  numerous  private  ))oarding- 
houses,  where  one  may  live  (juietly  at  a 
moderate  cost.  The  hotels  which  we 
liave  named  have  accommodation  for 
1,500  to  2,000  guests.  Attached  to  the 
Umon\s  an  opeia-house,  capable  of  seat- 
ing 1,500  i)crsons,  billiard-rooms,  baths, 
etc,  Fiue  bands  of  nuisic  discourse  on  the 
broad,  shady  piazzas,  and  in  the  ball- 
rooms at  the  dinner  and  evening  hours. 
The  Clarendon  is  an  elegant,  spacious 
house,  latelv  erected  on  the  biov/  of  the 
46 


hill  overlooking  Congress  and  Columbia 
Springs. 

BouTE, — From  Boston,  by  the  Western 
Railway,  200  miles  to  Albany;  or,  from 
iS'eAv  York,  by  the  Hudson  River  line  or 
steaml)oats,  144  miles  to  Albany,  or  150 
miles  to  Troy.  From  either  place,  by 
the  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Railwav, 
through  Bail<ton  Springs. 

The  short  ride  from  Troy  to  the  Springs 
is  a  most  agreeable  one.  The  route 
crosses  and  follows  the  Hudson  and  the 
Mohawk  Rivers,  to  Waterford  at  the 
meeting  of  these  waters,  four  miles 
above  Troy,  and  near  the  Cohoes  Falls, 
a  much  admired  and  frequented  resort 
upon  the  Mohawk,  thence  continuing  upon 
the  west  bank  of  the  Hudson,  eight  miles 
farther  to  Meehanicsville.  It  afterward 
crosses  the  canal,  passes  Round  Lake, 
and  enters  Ballston  Springs. 

During  the  summer,  a  car  on  the  Hud- 
son River  Railway  express  trains  from 
New  York  passes  through  to  the  Springs 
without  change.  Passengers  via  Albany 
for  the  Springs  change  cars  at  Albany. 

Saratoga  has  been  for  many  years,  and 
still  is,  and  probably  always  will  be,  the 
most  famous  place  of  summer  resort  in 
the  L^nited  States,  frequented  by  Ameri- 
cans from  all  sections,  and  by  Ibreipii 
tourists  from  all  parts  of  Europe.  Dur- 
ing the  height  of  the  season  the  arrivals 
frequently  outnumber  a  thousand  in  a 
single  day.  There  is  nothing  remarkable 
about" the  topography  or  scenery  of  Sara- 
toga; on  the  contrary,  the  spot  would  be 
uninteresting  enough  but  for  the  virtues 
of  its  waters  and  the  dissipations  of  its 
brilliant  society.  The  village  streets, 
however,  are  gratefully  shaded  by  fine 
trees,  and  a  little  respite  from  the  gay 
whirl  may  be  got  on  the  walks  and 
lawns- of  the  pretty  rural  cemetery  close 
by.  The  springs  from  which  the  fame 
of  Saratoga  is  derived,  however  much 
fashion  may  have  since  nursed  it,  are  all 
in  or  veiy  near  the  village.  There  are 
many  different  waters  in  present  use,  but 
the  most  sought  after  of  all  are  th.ase  of 
the  Congress  Spring,  of  which  Dr.  Chilton 
gives  the  following  analysis:  One  gallon 
of  261  cubic  inches:  chloride  of  sodium, 
363.829  grains ;  carbonate  of  soda,  7.200 ; 
carbonate  of  lime,  86.143  ;  carbonate  of 
magnesia,    78.621 ;    carbonate    of   iron, 


RATOGA.] 


NEW   YORK. 


[Glenn's  Falls. 


tl ;  sulpliate  of  soda,  .651  ;  iodino  of 
dium  and  bvoniidc  of  potassium,  5.920; 
ica,  A12  ;  alumina,  .321 :  total,  543.998 
lins.  Carbonic  acid,  281.65 ;  atmos- 
eric  air,  5.41 ;  making  290.06  inches 
gaseous  contents.  This  spring  was  dis- 
vered  iu  1*792,  though  it  was  long  be- 
'8  known  to  and  esteemed  by  the  Indians. 
After  the  Congress  waters,  which  are 
ttled  and  sent  all  over  the  world,  as 
erybody  knows,  the  springs  most  in 
/or  and  use  at  Saratoga  are  the  Em- 
■e,  the  Columbian,  tlie  High  Rock  the 
dine,  the  Pavilion,  and  Putnam's.  'The 
ccelsior.  Star,  and  Saratoga  A  Springs 
e  also  becoming  popular.  The  Empire 
>ring^  the  most  northerly  one  in  the 
ilage,  has  grown  greatly  iu  repute 
late  years.  So  far  its  landscape  sur- 
undings  have  received  but  poor  atten- 
)n.  The  High  Rock  Sjjrhig,  not  far  from 
e  Empire,  is  much  esteemed  both  for 
5  medicinal  virtues  and  for  the  curious 
aracter  of  the  rock  from  which  it  issues, 
d  after  which  it  is  named.  It  was  first 
lown  by  the  discovery  of  Sir  William 
»hnson,  in    1'76Y.     This   singular  rock 

as  been  formed  by  the  accumulated  de- 
jsits  of  the  mineral  substances  (mag- 
;sia,  lime,  and  iron)  held  in  solution  by 
e  carbonic  acid  gas  of  the  springs, 
le  circumference  of  the  rock,  at  the 
rfaceof  the  ground,  is  24  feet  4  inches, 
;  height  3^  feet,  with  an  aperture  of 
;arly  one  foot  diameter.  The  centen- 
al  anniversary  of  its  discovery  was 
lebrated  August  23,  1866.  The  Seltzer 
■)ring  is  newly  opened.  In  the  immedi- 
e  vicinity  of  the  spriiigs  is  pointed  out 
e  spot  upon  which  the  battles  of  Sara- 
ga  and  Stillwater  were  fought  in  1'7'7'7. 
The  Alpha  and  the  Omega  of  the  daily 

■  .ratoga  programme,  is  to  drink  and  to 
■.nee — the  one  iu  the  earliest  possible 
orning,  and  the  other  at  the  latest  ccn- 
•ivable  night.  Among  the  out-door  di- 
rsions  is  a  jaunt  to  Saratoga  Lalce^  an 
tractive  resort,  six  miles  distant.  The 
ive  thither  has  recently  been  improved, 
le  lake  is  nine  miles  in  length  and  very 
larly  three  in  width.  The  marshes  around 
prevent  access,  except  here  and  there. 
^oons  and  AhelVs  Lake  Houses  are  well- 
pt  houses,  with  conveniences  for  boat- 
^,  fishing,  etc.  S7iaTce  Hill  is  the  name 
Aen  to  an  eminence  upon  the  eastern 


side  of  the  lake.  The  Indian  camp,  Cir- 
ndar  Jiailioai/,  and  Arclicrg  Gronvd  arc 
immediately  south  of  Congress  Spring, 
and  the  "Victoria  Walk."  The  pecu- 
liarity of  "  the  Camp "  is  that  the  In- 
dians are  almost  all  white,  and  of  marked 
Milesian  features.  The  village  has  two 
newspaper  offices,  several  churches,  and 
a  resident  population  of  8,000,  which  i.s 
increased  to  nearly  30,000  during  the 
mouths  of  July  and  August. 

A  visit  to  Lake  George,  28  miles  dis- 
tant, affords  a  pleasing  variation  in  Kara- 
toga  life.  The  route  lies  northward,  via 
Gansevoort  to  Moreau  Station,  17  miles, 
and  thence  by  stages,  11  miles,  over  a 
plank  road,  to  Caldwell,  at  the  south  end 
or  head  of  the  lake. 

Glenn's  Falls,  on  the  upper  Hudson, 
are  passed  on  the  way,  nine  miles  from 
the  lake.  The  vrild  and  rugged  landscape  is 
in  striking  contrast  with  the  general  air 
of  the  country  below — -there,  quiet  pas- 
toral lands ;  here,  rugged  rock  and  rush- 
ing cataract.  This  is  a  spot  trebly  inter- 
esting, from  its  natural,  its  poetical,  and 
its  historical  character.  The  passage  of 
the  river  is  through  a  rude  ravine,  in  a 
mad  descent  of  75  feet  over  a  rocky  pre- 
cipice of  900  feet  in  length.  Within  the 
roar  of  these  rapids  were  laid  some  of 
the  scenes  in  Cooper's  story  of  the  "Last 
of  the  Mohicans."  They  are  gently  as- 
sociated wltli  our  romantic  memories  of 
Uncas  and  Hawk's  Eye,  David  Duncan 
Haywood  and  his  sweet  wards,  Alice  and 
Cora  Monroe. 

When  within  four  miles  of  the  lake, 
we  pass  a  dark  glen,  in  which  lie  hid- 
den the  storied  waters  of  Bloody  Pond, 
and  close  by  is  the  historic  old  bowlder, 
remembered  as  William's  Rock.  Near 
this  last-mentioned  spot.  Colonel  Williams 
was  killed  iu  an  engagement  with  the 
French  and  Indians,  September  8,  1775. 
The  slain  in  this  imfortunate  battle  were 
cast  into  the  waters  near  by,  since  called 
Bloody  Pond.  It  is  now  quiet  enough, 
under  its  surface  of  slime  and  dank  lilies. 
The  village  built  up  round  these  falls  was 
almost  wholly  destroyed  by  fire  in  May, 
1860.  The  inhabitants  number  near  5,000, 
and  are  principally  engaged  in  manufac- 
turing pursuits.  Marble  of  fine  quality  is 
quarried  here. 

Our  road  from  the  falls  descends  to  the 

47 


Lake  George.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[Sabbatu-day  Point. 


lake  shore,  the  gleaming  floods  and  the 
blue  elifrs  of  Horicon  closing  in  the  dis- 
tance. The  first  broad,  view  of  the  beau- 
tiful lake,  seen  suddenly  as  our  way 
brings  us  to  the  brink  of  the  highlands, 
above  which  we  have  thus  far  travelled, 
is  of  surpassing  beauty,  only  exceeded  by 
the  thousand-and-one  marvels  of  delight 
which  we  afterward  enjoy  in  all  the  long 
traverse  of  its  famous  waters. 

5j  a  k  c  Oeoi*g-e. — Hotels,  the 
Fort  William  Henry  Hotel  and  the  Lal'e 
Honxe^  at  the  south  end  of  the  lake  (Cald- 
well). About  a  mile  southeast  from  the 
site  of  Fort  William  Henry  are  the  ruins 
of  Fort  George,  passed  on  the  road  from 
Glemrs  Falls.  These  localities  are  seen 
from  the  piazza  of  the  Lake  House,  which 
commands  also  a  fine  view  of  the  French 
Mountain  and  Rattlesnake  Hill,  and  of 
the  islands  and  hills  down  the  lake. 

The  passage  of  Lake  George,  36  miles, 
to  the  landing  near  the  village  of  Ticon- 
deroga,  and  four  miles  from  the  venerable 
ruins  of  Fort  Ticonderoga,  on  Lake 
Champlain,  is  made  by  the  steamer  Hia- 
watlia^  the  trip  down  to  the  fort  and 
back  occupying  the  day  vei'y  delight- 
fully. Leaving  Caldwell  after  breakfast, 
we  proceed  on  our  voyage  down  the  lake. 
After  passing  the  fine  residence  of  Mr. 
Cramer,  the  first  spot  of  especial  interest 
which  we  pass  is  Biawond  Isleind,  in 
front  of  Dunham  Bay.  Here,  in  1'7'77, 
was  a  military  depot  of  Burgoyne's 
array,  and  the  scene  of  a  skirmish  be 
tween  the  garrison  and  a  detachment  of 
American  troops. 

North  of  Diamond  Isle  lies  Lovr/  Island, 
in  front  of  Long  Point,  which  extends 
into  the  lake  from  the  east.  Heirris's  Baij 
lies  between  the  nortli  side  of  this  point 
and  the  mountains.  In  this  bay  INIont- 
cnlm  moored  his  boats  and  landed  in 
17 5 v.  Doom,  or  Tivehe-Mile  Island,  is 
passed  in  the  centre  of  the  lake,  some  12 
miles  north  of  Caldwell.  Putnam's  men 
took  shelter  here  while  he  went  to  ap- 
piisc  General  "Webb  of  the  movements 
of  the  enemy,  at  the  nioutli  of  the  North- 
west Bay.  This  ])ay  lies  in  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  parts  of  Lake  George,  just 
beyond  Bolton  Landing,  where  there  is 
an  inviting  place  to  sojourn,  called  the 
"Mohican  House."  The  best  fishing- 
grounds  of  Lake  George  are  in  that  part 
48 


of  the  waters  which  we  have  already 
passed,  in  the  vicinity  of  Bolton  Land- 
ing, Shelving  Rock,  and  thence  to  Cald- 
well, though  fine  trout  and  bass  are  fi-eely 
caught  from  one  end  of  the  lake  to  the 
other.  The  bay  extends  up  on  the  west 
of  the  Tongue  Mountain  some  five  miles. 
On  the  east  side  of  the  bay,  the  Tongue 
Mountain  comes  in  literally  like  a  tongue 
of  the  lake,  into  the  centre  of  which  it 
seems  to  protrude,  with  the  bay  on  one 
side  and  the  main  passage  of  the  waters 
on  the  other.  On  the  right  or  east  shore, 
in  the  neighborhood,  and  just  as  we  reach 
the  Tongue  and  enter  the  "Narrows,"  is 
the  bold  semicircular  palisades  called 
Shelving  Roek.  Passing  this  picturesque 
feature  of  the  landscape,  and,  afterward, 
the  point  of  the  Tongue  Mountain,  we 
enter  the  Narrows  at  the  base  of  the 
boldest  and  loftiest  shores  of  Horicon. 
The  chief  peak  of  the  hills  here  is  that 
of  Blaek  Ilountain,  with  an  altitude  of 
2, '200  feet.  The  islands,  so  called,  of 
this  lovely  lake  nun)ber  more  than  300. 

Sahhath-Day  Point. — Emerging  from 
the  Narrows,  on  the  north,  we  approach 
a  long  projecting  strip  of  fertile  land, 
called  Sabbath-Day  Point — so  named  by 
General  Abercrombie,  from  his  having 
embarked  his  army  on  the  spot  on  Sun- 
day morning,  after  a  halt  for  the  prece- 
ding night.  The  spot  is  remembered  also 
as  the  scene  of  a  fight,  in  1'756,  between 
the  colonists  and  a  party  of  Fi'cnch  and 
Indians.  The  former,  sorely  pressed,  and 
unable  to  escape  across  the  lake,  made  a 
l)old  defence  and  defeated  the  enemy, 
killing  very  many  of  their  men.  In  IV'/G 
Sabbath-Day  Point  was  again  the  scene 
of  a  battle  between  some  American  militia 
and  a  party  of  Indians  and  Tories,  when 
the  latter  were  repulsed,  and  some  40  of 
their  number  were  killed  and  wounded. 
Tliis  part  of  Horicon  is  even  more  charm- 
ing in  its  ]uctures,  both  up  and  down  tlie 
lake,  than  it  is  in  its  numeious  historical 
reminiscences.  On  a  calm  sunny  day  the 
romantic  passage  of  the  Narrows,  as  seen 
to  the  southward,  is  wonderfully  fine ; 
while,  in  the  opposite  direction,  the  l>road 
bay,  entered  as  the  boat  passes  Sabbath- 
Day  Point,  and  the  summer  landing  and 
hotel  at  "Garfield's,"  soon  to  be  ab 
ruptly  closed  on  the  north  by  the  huge 
precipices   of   Anthony's    Nose    on  the 


Fort  Ticonderoga.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[WuiTEnALL. 


right  and  PtOgev's  Slide  on  the  left.  This 
pass  is  not  unlike  that  of  the  Highlands 
of  the  Hudson  as  approached  from  the 
south. 

iioycj-'s  Slide  is  a  rugged  promontory, 
about  400  feet  high,  with  a  steep  face  of 
bare  rock,  down  wliich  the  Indians,  to 
their  great  bewilderment,  supposed  the 
bold  rangei'.  Major  Rogers,  to  have  pass- 
ed, when  they  pursued  him  to  the  brink 
of  the  precipice. 

Two  miles  beyond  is  Prisoner's  Idand, 
wdiere,  during  the  French  War,  those 
taken  captive  by  the  English  were  con- 
fined ;  and  directly  west  is  Lord  Howe^s 
Pointy  where  the  English  army,  under 
Lord  Howe,  consisting  of  16,000  men, 
landed  previous  to  the  attack  on  Ticon- 
deroga. We  now  approach  the  termina- 
tion of  our  excursion  on  this  beautiful 
lake,  and  in  a  mile  reach  the  steamboat 
landing  near  the  village  of  Ticonderoga., 
whence  stages  run  a  distance  of  three 
miles,  over  a  rough  and  romantic  road, 
to  Fort  Ticonderoga — following  the  wild 
course  of  the  passage  by  which  Horicon 
reaches  the  waters  of  Lake  Champlain — 
a  passage  full  of  bold  rapids  and  striking 
cascades. 

Fort  Ticonderoga.,  of  which  the  ruins 
only  are  visible,  was  erected  by  the 
French  in  1*756,  and  called  by  them 
*'  Carrillon."  It  was  originally  a  place 
of  much  strength ;  its  natural  advantages 
were  very  great,  being  surrounded  on 
three  sides  by  water,  and  having  half  its 
fourth  covered  by  a  swamp,  and  the  only 
point  by  which  it  could  be  approached, 
by  a  breastv/ork.  It  was  afterward, 
however,  easily  reduced,  by  an  expedi- 
ent adopted  by  General  Burgoyne — that 
of  placing  a  piece  of  a;rtillery  on  the  pin- 
nacle of  Mount  Defiance.,  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Lake  George  outlet,  and  750 
feet  above  the  lake,  and  entirely  com- 
manding the  fort,  from  which  shot  was 
thrown  into  the  midst  of  the  American 
works.  Fort  Ticonderoga  was  one  of  the 
first  strongholds  taken  from  the  English 
in  1775,  at  the  commencement  of  the 
Revolutionary  War.  Colonel  Ethan  Allen, 
of  Vermont,  at  the  head  of  the  Green 
Mountain  Boys,  surprised  the  unsuspect- 
ing garrison,  penetrated  to  the  very  bed- 
side of  the  commandant,  and  waking  him, 
demanded    the    surrender   of    the  fort. 


"  In  whoso  name,  and  to  whom  ?"  ex- 
claimed the  surprised  officer.  "In  the 
name  of  the  great  Jchovali,  and  the  Con- 
tinental Congress !"  thundered  the  in- 
trepid Allen,  and  the  fort  was  immediately 
surrendered. 

After  exploring  the  picturesque  ruins 
of  the  ancient  fort,  and  dining  at  the 
hotel,  which  stands  upon  the  margin  of  a 
beautiful  lawn,  sloping  to  the  Champlain 
shore,  the  tourist  may  return  to  the 
landing  on  Lake  George,  and  thence  to 
Caldwell  again,  in  time  for  tea ;  or  he  may 
take  the  Champlain  boat  from  Whitehall, 
en  route  for  Canada. 

For  the  sake  of  preserving  our  con- 
tinuity of  travel,  a  consideration  in  tourist 
and  pleasure  travel,  we  resume  our  pro- 
gramme at  Moreau  Station,  on  the  Sara- 
toga and  Whitehall  Railway,  to  which 
point  we  have  already  followed  it  in  our 
visit  to  Lake  George. 

To  Whitehall  the  country  is  exceed- 
ingly attractive,  much  of  the  way,  in  its 
quiet,  sunny  valley  beauty,  watered  by 
pleasant  streams,  and  environed  in  the 
distance  by  picturesque  hills.  The  Cham- 
plain Canal  is  a  continual  object  of  inter- 
est by  the  way;  and  there  are  also,  as 
in  all  the  long  journey  before  us,  every- 
where spots  of  deep  historic  charm,  if  we 
could  tarry  to  read  their  stories — of  the 
memorable  incidents  which  they  witness- 
ed, both  in  French  and  Indian  and  after- 
ward in  the  Revolutionary  War.  In  the 
valley  regions  of  the  Hudson,  which  lie 
between  Albany  and  Lake  Champlain, 
are  many  scenes  famous  for  the  struggles 
between  the  colonists  and  Great  Britain 
— the  battle-grounds  of  Bemis  Heights 
and  Stillwater  (villages  of  the  upper 
Hudson),  and  of  Saratoga,  which  ended 
in  the  defeat  of  Burgoyne  and  his  army. 

Three  miles  north  of  Moreau  Station 
we  pass  Fort  Edward.,  the  scene  of  the 
murder  of  Jane  McCrea  by  the  Indians  ; 
and  twelve  miles  further  on  Fort  Anne.,  a 
pleasant  village  of  Washington  County, 
on  the  canal.  Remains  of  the  fortification 
from  which  the  place  is  named,  and 
which  was  erected  during  the  French 
War  of  1756,  are  still  to  be  seen. 

Vvniitehall,  77  miles  north  of  Albany, 
was  a  point  of  much  consideration  during 
the  French  and  Indian  War,  and  through 

49 


Lake  Chamflain.] 


KEW  YORK. 


[Burlington. 


the  Revolution.  In  former  times  it  was 
called  Skenesborough.  It  is  at  the  south 
end  or  head  of  Lake  Champluin,  with- 
in a  rude,  rocky  ravine,  at  the  foot 
of  Skene's  Mountain.  The  Champlain 
Canal  to  Troy  terminates  here.  Pawlet 
River  and  Wood  Creek,  \vhieh  eutcr  the 
lake  hero,  furnish  abundant  water-power  ; 
population,  4,500.  There  is  nothing  in 
the  vicinage  to  delay  the  traveller.  From 
Whitehall  we  can  cither  continue  our 
journey  down  Lake  Champlain,  156  miles, 
to  St.  John,  or  proceed  by  railway  through 
Vermont,  via  Castleton,  Rutland,  Bur- 
lington, etc.,  to  Rouse's  Point,  and  thence 
to  Montreal.  The  Iioat  or  lake  route  is 
preferable,  as  affoiding  greater  variety 
and  more  attractive  scenery. 


ZAKE  champlain: 

Lake  Champlain.  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant and  attractive  features  of  the 
northern  tour,  lies  between  XewYork  and 
Vermont,  in  latitude  between  48''  30'  and 
45°  6'  north.  It  varies  in  breadth  from 
half  a  mile  to  10  miles,  and  in  depth  from 
50  to  280  feet.  Its  principal  tributaries 
are  the  Saranac,  Au  Sable,  and  Winooski, 
and  its  principal  outlet  the  Sorel  or 
Richelieu  River,  through  which  it  dis- 
charges into  the  St.  Lawrence,  50  miles 
below  Montreal.  The  name  is  derived 
from  that  of  Samuel  de  Champlain,  who 
discovered  it  in  1009.  Navigation  open 
from  May  to  Noveml>er.  One  of  the  U.  S. 
mail  steamers  leaves  Whitehall  on  the  ar- 
rival of  trains  from  Albany,  etc.  The  nar- 
rowness of  tlie  lower  part  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain gives  it  nnioh  more  the  air  of  a  river 
than  a  lake.  For  '10  miles  the  average 
breadth  does  not  exceed  half  a  mile  ;  and 
at  one  point  it  is  not  more  than  40  rods 
across.  However,  it  grows  wide  enough 
as  we  pass  Ticonderoga,  where  passen- 
gers by  the  Lake  George  ditour  are  picked 
up,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  Burlington 
there  are  too  many  broad  miles  between 
the  shores  for  picturesque  uses.  Whctlier 
broad  or  narrow,  the  voyage,  in  large  and 
adniiraljlc  Ijoati^,  over  its  mount;iin-envi- 
roncd  waters,  is  always  a  pleasvn-c  to  be 
greatly  enjoyed  and  hapi)ily  remembered. 
On  the  east  rise  the  bare  peaks  of  the 
Green  Hills  of  Vermont,  the  bold  Camel's 
50 


Hump  leading  all  along  the  line  ;  and  on 
the  west  are  the  still  more  varied  sum- 
mits and  ridges  of  the  Adirondack  Moun- 
tains in  New  York. 

Jlount  Independence  lies  in  Vermont, 
opposite  Ticonderoga,  about  a  mile  dis- 
tant. The  remains  of  military  works  are 
still  visible  here.  3Iount  Hope^  an  ele- 
vation about  a  mile  north  of  Ticonderojra, 
was  occupied  by  General  Burgoyne  pre- 
vious to  the  recapture  of  Ticonderoga, 
which  took  place  in  1*777,  nearly  two 
years  after  its  surrender  to  the  gallant 
Allen.  St.  Clair,  the  American  command- 
er, being  forced  to  evacuate,  it  agdn  fell 
into  the  possession  of  the  British,  and 
was  held  during  the  war.  Not  far  above 
and  upon  the  opposite  shore,  is  the  village 
of  Croicn  Foinf,  and  just  beyond  the  pic- 
turesque and  well-preserved  ruins  of  the 
fortifications  of  the  same  name.  Opposite 
is  Chimney  Foint,  and  jtist  above,  on  the 
left,  at  the  mouth  of  Bulwaggy  Bay^  is 
Fort  Henry. 

ISiirliiigtoii. — Hotels,  American^ 
the  LaTce  Hoxise, 

Burlington,  Vermont,  the  largest  and 
most  beautiful  town  on  the  lake,  or  in- 
deed in  the  State,  is  upon  the  eastern  or 
Vermont  shore,  about  midwav  between 
Whitehall  and  St.  Johns,  distant  80 
miles  from  Whitehall.  It  was  settled  in 
1783,  and  contains  nearly  10,000  inhabi- 
tants. Rising  gradually  to  an  elevation 
of  several  hundred  feet  from  the  water,  the 
town  presents  an  imposing  aspect.  It  is  the 
seat  of  the  University  of  Vermont^  ionu^- 
ed  1791,  and  is  a  place  of  much  com- 
mercial importance,  connected  by  rail- 
way with  all  parts  of  the  country.  Across 
the  lake  is  Fort  Kent^  from  which  vicin- 
ity, whether  on  land  or  on  water,  the 
landscape  in  every  direction  is  striking 
and  beautiful.  Movnt  Mamfekl  is  reach- 
ed by  stage.  (See  chapter  on  Vermont.) 
A  pleasant  cKtour  may  be  made  from 
Btirlington  l)y  the  Vermont  Central  Rail- 
way to  the  White  Mountains.  The  better 
plan,  however,  is  to  proceed  up  the  lake  to 
St.  Johns,  and  thence  by  Waterloo  and 
Lake  Jlomphrcmagog,  G3  miles.  The  re- 
markable iValled  Banks  of  the  An  Sahh 
are  a  mile  or  two  west  of  Port  Kent,  on 
the  way  to  the  manufacturing  village  of 
Keeseville.  (See  Adirondacks.)  The 
All,  Sable  House  is   an  excellent   sum- 


Plattsbukg.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[Route  V. 


mer  hotel.  The  Falls  of  the  Au  Sable, 
though  but  Httle  known  as  yet,  will  one 
day  be  esteemed  among  the  chief  natural 
wonders  of  the  country. 

B*  1 11 1 1  s  I>  m*  g-. — Hotels,  "  Fou- 
quefs."  Twenty-four  miles  above  Bur- 
lington, and  on  the  opposite  shore,  is  the 
pleasant  village  of  Plattsburg,  where  the 
Saranac  River  comes  in  from  its  lake-dot- 
ted home,  at  the  edge  of  the  great  wilder- 
ness of  northern  New  Yoi-k,  30  miles 
westward.  Plattsburg  is  connected  with 
Montreal  by  the  P.  &  M.  Railway.  Cum- 
berlafid  Ban,  into  which  the  Saranac 
enters,  was  the  scene  of  the  victory  of 
McDonough  and  Macomb  over  the  Brit- 
ish naval  and  land  forces,  under  Com- 
modore Downie  and  Sir  George  Pro- 
vost, familiarly  known  as  the  Battle 
of  Lake  Champlain.  Here  the  Amer- 
ican commodore  awaited  the  arrival 
of  the  British  fleet,  which  passed  Cum- 
berland Head  about  eight  o'clock  in  the 
morning  of  September  11,  1814.  The 
first  gun  from  the  fleet  was  the  sig- 
nal for  commencing  the  attack  on  land. 
Sir  George  Provost,  with  about  14,000 
men,  furiously  assaulted  the  defences  of 
the  town,  whilst  the  battle  raged  be- 
tween the  fleets,  in  full  view  of  the 
armies.  General  Macomb,  with  about 
3,000  men,  mostly  undisciplined,  foiled 
the  repeated  assaults  of  the  enemy,  until 
the  capture  of  the  British  fleet,  after  an 
action  of  about  two  hours,  obliged  him 
to  retire,  with  the  loss  of  2,500  men,  and 
a  large  portion  of  his  baggage  and  am- 
munition. 

Twenty-five  miles  farther  we  reach 
Boicse^s  Point,  on  the  west  side  of 
the  lake.  This  is  our  last  landing  be- 
fore we  enter  Canada.  It  is  the  termi- 
nus of  the  Lake  Champlain  Railway  to 
Ogdensburg,  118  miles.  Railways  from 
the  Eastern  States  through  Vermont 
come  in  here,  and  are  prolonged  by  the 
Montreal  and  Champlain  road  to  Mon- 
treal. If  the  traveller  toward  Canada 
prefers  to  continue  his  journey  otherwise 
than  via  Plattsburg,  or  Rouse's  Point, 
he  may  go  on  by  steamboat  to  the  head 
of  navigation  in  these  waters  to  St. 
Johns,  and  thence  by  Lachine  to  Montreal. 

(See  Canada,  for  the  tour  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  and  Lake  Ontario  from  Quebec 
via  Montreal  to  Niagara.) 


MOUTE  r. 

NEW   YORK    TO    ELMTRA,    GENESEE, 
AND  DUNKIRK. 

(  Via  New  York  and  Erie  Railroad.') 

This  great  route  claims  especial  admi- 
ration for  the  grandeur  of  the  enterprise 
which  conceived  and  executed  it,  for  the 
vast  contributions  it  has  made  to  the 
facilities  of  travel,  and  for  the  multiplied 
and  varied  landscape  beauties  which  it 
has  made  so  readily  and  pleasantly  ac- 
cessible. Its  entire  length,  from  New 
York  to  Dunkirk  on  Lake  Erie,  is  460 
miles  (including  the  Piermont  and  the 
Newburg  branches,  it  is  497  miles),  in 
which  it  traverses  the  southern  portion 
of  the  Empire  State  in  its  entire  extent 
from  east  to  west,  passing  through  count- 
less towns  and  villages,  over  many  rivers, 
now  through  rugged  mountain-passes, 
and  anon  amidst  broad  and  fertile  valleys 
and  plains.  In  addition,  it  has  many 
branches,  connecting  its  stations  with 
other  routes  in  all  directions,  and  open- 
ing up  new  stores  of  pictorial  pleasure. 

The  road  was  first  commenced  in 
1836.  The  first  portion  (46  miles,  from 
Piermont  to  Goshen)  was  put  in  opera- 
tion September  23,  1841,  and  on  May 
15,  1851,  the  entire  line  to  Lake  Erie 
was  opened  amid  great  rejoiciugs  and  fes- 
tivities, in  which  the  President  of  the 
United  States  and  other  distinguished 
guests  of  the  company  assisted.  Daily 
trains  leave  for  the  West  on  this  route, 
from  the  foot  of  Duane  Street,  morning, 
noon,  and  night. 

Stations. — Boiling  Spring,  9  miles; 
Passaic  Bridge,  11 ;  Huyler's,  12  ;  Pater- 
son,  16;  Ridgewood,  22;  Hohokus,  23; 
Allendale,  25  ;  Ramsey's,  27  ;  Suftern's, 
31 ;  Ramapo,  33  ;  Sloatsburg,  35  ;  South- 
fields,  41 ;  Greenwood,  44  ;  Turner's,  47; 
Oxford,  52 ;  Chester  (Greycourt),  55 ; 
Goshen,  59  ;  Hampton,  63  ;  Middletown, 
66  ;  Otisville,  15  ;  Fort  Jervis,  88  ;  Lack- 
awaxen,  110;  Mast  Hope,  116;  Nar- 
rowsbitrff,  122 ;  Cochecton,  130 ;  Haw- 
kins, 142;  Lordville,  153;  Stockport, 
159;  Hancock,  163  (junction  of  Del- 
aware, Lackawanna,  and  Western  R.  R.) ; 
Deposit,  176;  fiwiquchanria,  192;  Great 
Bend,  200;  Kirkwood,  206;  Binyham- 
ton,  214  (junction  of  Syracuse  and  Bing- 

51 


Route  V.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[Route  V. 


hamton  R.  R.)  ;  Hooper,  220 ;  Owogo, 
236 ;  Tioga,  242  ;  Barton,  248  ;  Waver- 
ley,  255;  Chemung,  260;  Wellsburg, 
266;  Palmira,  273  (junction  of  V\'illiams- 
port  and  Elraira  R.  R.) ;  Big  Flats,  283  ; 
Corning,  291  (junction  of  Buflfalo  Divi- 
sion) ;  Tainted  Post,  292  ;  Addison,  301 ; 
Ratlil)onevdle,  306;  Adrian,  322;  Ilor- 
nellsvillc,  331;  Alfred,  340;  Andovcr, 
349;  Genesee,  358;  Philipsvillc  365; 
Belvidere,  369;  Hinsdale,  389;  Olean, 
398;  Great  Valley,  411;  Salamanca, 
415  (junction  of  Atlantic  and  Great 
Western  R.  R.) ;  Cattaraugus,  428  ;  Day- 
ton, 437  ;  Pcrrysburg,  440  ;  Forestville, 
451;  Dunkirk,  460/ 

The  first  31  miles  of  the  Erie  route  lie 
through  the  State  of  New  Jersey,  from 
Jersey  City,  opposite  New  York,  to 
"  Sufiem's,"  and  consists  of  parts  of  three 
different  railways,  though  used  of  late 
years  for  all  the  general  passenger  travel 
of  the  Erie  road,  and  with  its  own  broad 
track  and  cars.  The  original  line  of  the 
road  is  from  Suffern's  eastward,  18  miles, 
to  Piermont,  and  thence  24  miles  down 
the  Hudson  River.  This  route  is  now 
employed  only  for  freight  and  for  local 
travel.  It  leads  through  a  rude  but  not 
uninteresting  country,  with  here  and 
there  a  fine  landscape  or  an  agreeable 
village.  Passing  then  through  the  New 
Jersey  towns  (see  chapter  on  New  Jer- 
sey), wc  begin  our  mention  of  places  and 
scenes  of  interest  on  the  Erie  route  at 
Suffern's  Station,  where  the  original  Pier- 
mont and  the  present  Jersey  City  lines 
meet.  The  Ramajio  Valley  commences 
at  this  point,  and  in  its  wild  mountain- 
passes  wc  find  the  first  scenes  of  especial 
remark  in  our  journey.  Fine  hill  farms 
surround  us  here,  and  on  all  our  way 
through  the  region  of  the  Ramapo  for  18 
miles,  ))y  Sloalshtm/,  Southftchls,  Grcen- 
wood^  and  Turner^si,  to  Monroe.  The 
chief  attraction  of  the  Ramapo  Gap  is 
the  Torn  Jfonjilalny  seen  on  the  right, 
rear  the  entrance  of  the  valley,  and  about 
tlie  Ramapo  Station.  This  is  historical 
ground,  sacred  with  memories  of  the 
movenjcnts  of  the  Revolutionary  army, 
when  it  v,-as  driven  back  into  New  Jersey 
from  the  Hudson.  Washington  often  as- 
cended to  the  summit  of  the  Tom  Moun- 
tain, to  overlook  the  movements  of  the 
British.  Un  one  such  occasion,  anecdote 
62 


says,  that  he  lost  his  watch  in  a  crevice 
of  a  rock,  of  which  credulity  afterward 
heard  the  ticking  in  the  percolations  of 
unseen  waters.  Very  near  the  railway 
at  Suffern's  the  debris  of  old  intrench- 
ments  are  still  visible ;  and  marks  of  the 
camp-fires  of  our  French  allies  of  the 
period  may  be  traced  in  the  woods  op- 
posite. Near  by  is  an  old  farm-house, 
once  occupied  by  the  commander-in-chief. 
The  Ramapo  is  a  great  iron  ore  and  iron 
manufacturing  region ;  and  it  was  here 
that  the  chain  which  was  stretched 
across  the  Hudson  to  check  the  advance 
of  the  English  ships,  was  forged,  at  the 
spot  once  called  the  Augusta  Iron  Works, 
and  now  a  poetical  ruin  by  a  charming 
cascade  with  overhanging  bluff,  seen  close 
by  the  road,  on  the  right,  after  passing 
Sloatsburg.  The  Ramapo  Brook  winds 
attractively  through  the  valley,  and 
beautiful  lakelets  are  found  upon  the  hill- 
tops. There  are  two  such  elevated  ponds 
near  Sloatsburg.  At  Sloatsburg  passen- 
gers for  the  summer  resort  of  Greenwood 
Lake,  12  miles  distant,  take  stage.  (See 
Greenwood  Lake).  From  Monroe  on- 
ward through  Oxford,  Chester,  Goshen^ 
Hampton,  Middletown,  HoweWs,  and  Olis- 
ville,  io  PortJervis  (or  Delaware),  we  are 
in  the  great  dairy  region  of  Orange 
County,  New  York,  v.hich  sends  a  train 
of  cars  laden  with  milk  daily  to  the  New 
York  market.  A  very  charming  view  is 
seen  south  from  the  station  at  Oxford, 
led  by  the  cone  of  the  Sugar  Loaf,  the 
chief  liill  feature  of  the  vicinage.  At  Ches- 
ter, nov/  called  Grcycourt,  the  branch 
road  from  Ncwburg,  on  the  Hudson 
River,  to  Warwick,  29  miles,  intersects  the 
main  line.  From  this  point,  as  well  as 
from  Sloatsburg,  passengers  for  Green- 
wood Lake  (eight  miles)  take  stage. 
Middletown  is  a  flourishing  town  in 
Orange  County.  It  has  an  academy  and 
extensive  iron-works.  At  IIowcH's,  70 
n)iles  from  New  York,  the  country  gives 
promise  of  the  picturesque  displays  to 
be  seen  all  through  the  way  onward  to 
Port  Jervis.  Approaching  Otisville,  (he 
eye  is  attracted  by  the  bohl  flanks  of  the 
/S/tawanc/nnk  Mounlain,  the  passage  of 
wliich  great  barrier  (once  deemed  almost 
insurmomitable)  is  a  miracle  of  engineer- 
ing skill.  A  mile  bcvond  Otisville,  after 
traversing  an  ascending  grade  of  40  feet 


Port  Jeryis.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[SiionoLA. 


to  the  mile,  the  road  runs  tlirough  a  rock 
cutting  50  feet  deep  and  2,500  feet  long. 
Tliio  passed,  tlie  summit  of  the  ascent  is 
reached,  and  thence  we  go  down  the  moun- 
tain side  many  sloping  miles  to  the  val- 
ley beneath.  The  scenery  along  the 
mountain  slope  is  grand  and  picturesque, 
and  the  effect  is  not  lessened  by  the  bold 
features  of  the  landscape  all  around — the 
rugged  front  of  the  Sliawangunk,  step- 
ping, like  a  colossal  ghost,  into  the  scene 
for  one  instant,  and  the  eye  anon  resting 
upon  a  vast  reach  of  untamed  wilderness. 
In  the  descent  of  the  mountain  the  em- 
bankment is  securely  supported  by  a 
wall  30  feet  in  height  and  1,000  feet  long. 
Onward  the  way  increases  in  interest, 
vmtil  it  opens  upon  a  glimpse,  away  over 
the  valley  of  the  mountain  spur,  called 
the  Cuddlehack ;  and,  at  its  base,  the 
glittering  water  seen  now  for  the  first 
time,  of  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal, 
v/hose  deboucM  we  have  looked  upon 
at  Kingston,  in  our  voyage  up  the  Hud- 
son River.  Eight  miles  beyond  Otisville 
we  are  imprisoned  in  a  deep  cutting  for 
nearly  a  mile,  which  prepares  us  for  the 
briUiant  surprise  which  awaits  us.  The 
dark  passage  made,  and  yet  another  bold 
dash  through  rocky  cliffs,  and  there  lies 
suddenly  spread  before  us,  upon  our 
right,  the  rich  and  lovely  valley  and 
waters  of  the  Neversink.  Beyond  sweeps 
a  chaia  of  blue  hills,  and  at  their  feet, 
terraced  high,  gleam  the  roofs  and  spires 
of  the  village  of  Fori  Jcrvis  ;  while  on- 
ward, to  the  south,  our  eye  first  beholds 
the  floods  of  the  Delaware,  which  is  to 
be  so  great  a  source  of  delight  in  our 
joui-ney  hence,  for  nearly  90  long  miles, 
to  Deposit. 

Port  Jervis,  formerly  Delaware,  as  the 
station  was  called,  is  the  terminus  of 
the  eastern  division,  one  of  four  great 
sub-sections  into  which  the  road  is 
divided.  It  is  the  point  at  which  the 
tourist  who  can  spend  several  days  in 
vieAving  the  route,  should  make  his  first 
night's  halt.  The  vicinage  is  replete 
v/i'h  pictorial  delights,  and  with  ways 
and  means  for  rural  sports  and  pleasures. 
Charms  of  climate  and  of  scenery,  with 
the  additional  considerations  of  a  pretty 
village  and  a  mosc  excellent  hotel  (the 
Delaware  House),  have  made  Port  Jervis 
a  place  of  great  and  continuous  summer 


resort  and  tarry.  The  Falls  of  the  Saw- 
kill,  sis  miles  distant,  are  reached  by 
stage.  This  stream,  after  flowing  slug- 
gishly for  some  miles  through  level  table 
land,  is  here  precipitated  over  two  per- 
pendicular ledges  of  slate-rock — the  first 
of  about  20  feet,  andtlie  second  about  60 
feet— into  a  wild  gorge.  The  brook  still 
continues,  dashing  and  foaming  on  for  a 
quarter  of  a  mile,  over  smaller  precipices, 
and  through  chasms  scarcely  wide 
enough  for  the  visitor  to  pass.  The 
beethng  cliffs  that  form  the  sides  of  the 
gorge  are  surmounted  and  shaded  by 
cedars  and  hemlocks,  that  lend  a  pecu- 
liarly sombre  air  to  the  scenery.  The 
sojourner  here  should  not  omit  a  tramp  to 
the  top  of  Folnf  Peter,  which  overlooks 
the  village. 

At  Port  Jcrvis  commences  the  second 
division  of  the  road  which  carries  us  on- 
ward, 104  miles  farther,  to  Susquehanna. 
The  canal  keeps  us  company,  nearer  or 
more  remote,  for  some  miles,  and  by  and 
by  we  cross  the  Delaware  on  a  fine  bridge 
of  800  feet,  built  at  a  cost  of  $75,000. 
The  river,  from  this  point,  is  seen,  both 
above  and  below,  to  great  advantage. 
Here  we  leave  Orange  County  and  New 
York  for  a  little  incursion  into  the  Key- 
stone State,  for  which  privilege  the  rail- 
way company  pays  Pennsylvania  $10,000 
per  year.  The  canal,  and  its  pictures 
and  incidents,  are  still  the  most  agreeable 
features  of  our  w^ay,  though  at  Point 
Eddy  we  open  into  one  of  the  wide  basins 
so  striking  in  the  scenery  of  the  Del- 
aware. 

Near  ShoJiola,  106  miles  from  New 
York,  we  are  among  some  of  the  greatest 
engineering  successes  of  the  Erie  route, 
and  some  of  its  chief  pictorial  charms. 
Here  the  road  lies  on  the  mountain  side, 
several  feet  above  the  river,  along  a 
mighty  gallery,  supported  by  grand  nat- 
ural abutments  of  jagged  rock.  It  is  a 
pleasant  scene  to  watch  the  flight  of  the 
train  upon  the  crest  of  this  rocky  and  se- 
cure precipice  ;  and  the  impressiveness  of 
the  sight  is  deepened  by  its  contrast  with 
the  peaceful  repose  of  the  smiling  meadow 
slopes  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river 
below.  Upon  three  miles  along  tliis 
Shohola  section  of  the  road  no  Ici-s  than 
$300,000  were  expended. 

At   Lackaivaxen   there  is  a  charming 

53 


Haxcock.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[BiNGHAMTON. 


picture  of  the  village,  and  of  the  Dela- 
ware bridged  by  the  railway  and  by  the 
grand  aqueduct  for  the  passage  of  the 
canal,  supported  by  an  iron-wire  suspen- 
sion bridge.  We  pass  on  now  by  Must 
Hope  to  Narrowsburg. 

NarroiL'shurg  (122  miles  from  New 
York,  and  337  from  Dunkirk)  has  a  good 
hotel.  Beyond  Narrowsburg,  for  some 
miles,  the  traveller  may  turn  to  his  news- 
paper or  book  for  occupation  awhile,  so  lit- 
tle of  interest  does  the  scene  without  pre- 
sent, with  the  exception  now  and  then  of 
a  pleasant  bit  of  pastoral  region.  Some 
compensation  may  be  found  in  recalling 
the  stirring  incidents  of  Cooper's  novel  of 
"  The  Last  of  the  Mohicans,"  of  which 
this  ground  was  the  theatre. 

At  Callicoon,  a  brook  full  of  wild  and 
beautiful  passages  and  of  bright  trout,  en- 
ters the  Delaware. 

Hancock  is  one  of  the  most  important 
places  of  this  division  of  our  route,  and 
in  every  way  a  pleasant  spot  for  sojourn. 
At  Deposit,  13  miles  beyond  Hancock,  we 
bid  good-by  to  the  Delaware,  which  we 
have  followed  so  long  ;  refresh  ourselves 
at  the  excellent  c«/e,  and  prepare  for  the 
ascent  of  a  heavy  grade  over  the  high 
mountain  ridge  which  separates  it  from 
the  lovely  waters  of  the  Susquehanna. 
As  the  train  descends  into  the  valley 
there  seems  no  promise  of  the  wonders 
which  are  awaiting  us,  but  they  come 
suddenly,  and  before  we  are  aware  we  are 
traversing  the  famoirs  Cascade  Bridge^  a 
solitary  arch,  250  feet  wide,  sprung  over 
a  dark  ravine  of  184  feet  in  depth.  No 
adequate  idea  of  the  bold  spirit  and  beauty 
of  the  scene  can  be  had  from  the  cars ; 
indeed,  in  the  rapid  transit  it  is  often 
passed  before  the  traveller  is  aware  of  its 
approach.  It  should  be  viewed  leisurely 
from  the  bottom  of  the  deep  glen,  and 
from  all  sides,  to  )>e  realized  aright.  To 
see  it  thus,  a  half  day's  halt  should  be 
made  at  the  Great  Bend  station. 

Tile  Cascade  Bridge  crossed,  the  view 
opens  almost  inimediately  at  tlie  right — 
deep  down  upon  I  he  winding  Susquehan- 
na, reaching  afar  off  amid  a  valley  and  hill 
picture  of  delicious  quality,  a  iitting  pre- 
lude to  the  sweet  river  scenes  we  are 
henceforlh  to  delight  in.  This  liist  grate- 
ful glimpse  of  the  brave  Susquehanna  is 
justly  esteemed  as  one  of  the  finest  points 
64 


on  the  varied  scenery  of  the  Erie  Rail- 
road route.  It  may  be  looked  at  more 
leisurely  and  more  lovingly  by  him  who 
tarries  to  explore  the  Cascade  Bridge 
hard  by,  and  the  valley  of  the  Starrucca, 
with  its  grand  viaduct,  which  we  are  now 
rapidly  approaching.  The  Stay-rucca  Via- 
duct is  one  of  the  greatest  engineering 
achievements  of  the  entire  route.  It  is 
1,200  feet  in  length,  and  110  feet  high, 
and  has  18  grand  arches,  each  50  feet 
span.  The  cost  was  $3-0,000.  From 
the  vicinity  of  Susquehanna,  the  next 
station,  the  viaduct  itself  makes  a  most 
effective  feature  in  the  valley  views.  A 
little  beyond  the  viaduct,  and  just  before 
we  reach  the  Susquehanna  station,  we 
cross  a  fine  trestle  bridge,  450  feet  long, 
over  the  Cannewacia  Creek,  at  Lanes- 
borough.  We  are  now  fairly  upon  the 
Susquehanna,  not  in  the  distance,  but 
near  its  very  marge,  and,  anon,  we  reach 
the  end  of  the  second  grand  division  of 
our  route,  and  enter  the  depot  of  Susque- 
hanna. Siisqiiehanna,  193  miles  from 
New  York,  is  an  important  railroad  station 
and  manufacturing  point.  Just  beyond 
the  Susquehanna  depot  we  cross  to  the 
right  bank  of  the  river,  and,  after  two 
more  miles'  ride,  yet  amidst  mountain 
ridges,  we  reach  Greed  Bend,  200  miles 
from  New  York,  and  259  from  Dunkirk. 
The  village  of  this  name  lies  close  by,  at 
the  base  of  a  bold,  cone-shaped  hill.  The 
Delaware,  Lackawanna,  and  Western  Rail- 
road, joins  the  Erie  road  at  this  point. 
Leaving  Great  Bend,  we  enter  upon  the 
more  cultivated  landscape  of  which  we 
lately  spoke,  and  approach  villages  and 
towns  of  great  extent  and  elesance.  Near 
Kirkwood,  the  next  station,  six  miles 
from  Great  Bend,  there  stands  an  old 
wooden  tenement,  which  may  attract 
the  traveller's  notice  as  the  birthplace 
of  the  ^Mormon  prophet,  Joe  Smith. 

ISiiig:liaiiitoii.  —  Hotels, 
Aniericau  Jlovse,  Leids  JJouse. 

Binghamton,  215  miles  from  New 
York,  is,  vrith  its  population  of  ten  or 
eleven  tliousand  people,  one  of  the  most 
important  places  on  the  Erie  route,  and 
indeed  in  Southern  New  York.  It  is  a 
beautifid  town,  situated  upon  a  wide 
l)lain,  in  an  angle  made  by  the  meeting 
of  the  Susquehanna  and  the  Chenango 
Rivers.     Binghamton  was  settled  in  1787 


OWEGO.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[Salamanca. 


by  Mr.  Bingham,  an  English  gentleman, 
whose  daughters  married  the  brothers 
Henry  and  Alexander  Baring,  the  famous 
London  bankers.  One  of  those  gentle- 
men was  afterward  created  Lord  Ash- 
burton.  It  was  incorporated  in  1818. 
The  Chenango  Canal,  extending  along  the 
Chenango  River,  connects  Binghamton 
with  Utica,  95  miles  distant ;  and  it  is 
also  the  southern  terminus  of  the  Syra- 
cuse and  Binghamton  Railroad,  80  miles 
long. 

€>  ^v  e  g  o  . — Hotels,  the  Ah-wa-ga 
Iloui^e. 

Owego  (23Y  miles),  is  another  large  and 
handsome  town,  almost  rivalling  Bing- 
hamton in  beauty  and  importance.  It 
was  settled  in  1791,  and  incorporated  in 
1827.  Owego  is  surrounded  by  a  land- 
scape not  of  bold  but  of  very  beautful  fea- 
tures. Many  noble  panoramas  are  to  be 
seen  from  the  hill-tops  around,  overlook- 
ing the  village  and  the  great  valley.  The 
OvTego  Creek,  which  enters  the  Susque- 
hanna here,  is  a  charming  stream.  Just 
before  its  meeting  with  the  greater 
waters,  it  passes  through  the  meadow 
and  at  the  base  of  the  hill-slopes  of 
*'  Glenmary,"  once  the  home  of  iSI".  P. 
Willis,  and  now  one  of  the  Meccas  of  the 
vicinage,  to  which  all  visitors  are  won  by 
the  charms  and  spells  the  fancy  of  the 
poet  has  cast  about  it.  It  was  here  that 
Mr.  WilUs  wrote  his  famous  "Letters 
from  under  a  Bridge."  Population,  6,000. 
The  Cayuga  division  of  the  Delaware^ 
Lacliawanna,  and  Western  Railroad,  di- 
verges here,  some  30  miles,  to  Ithaca,  on 
Cayuga  Lake. 

EliBiirsa. — Hotels,  Brainard  House. 

Passing  the  half  dozen  intermediate 
stations,  we  reach  Elmira,  273  miles  from 
New  York,  and  36  from  Owego.  This 
beautiful  town  is  a  peer  of  Binghamton 
and  Owego,  with  the  same  charming  val- 
ley nest  and  the  same  environing  hill- 
ridges.  It  was  settled  in  1788,  and  has 
a  town  population  of  14,000.  The  New- 
ton Creek  and  the  Chemung  River,  near 
the  junction  of  whose  waters  Elmira  is 
built,  lend  a  picturesque  beauty  to  the  vi- 
cinage. The  Elmira,  Ganandaigua,  and 
Niagara  Falls  Railway  diverges  here,  and 
connects  the  town  with  the  Canada  lines. 
This  road  affords  one  of  the  pleasantest 
summer  routes  from  Now  York  to  the 


foils  of  Niagara.  The  Williamsport  and 
Elmira  road  connects  with  lines  leading 
to  Philadelphia.  The  Chemung  Canal 
also  connects  Elmira  with  Seneca  Laic,  20 
miles  distant.  Five  miles  beyond  Elmira 
our  route  lies  over  the  Chemung  River. 

Coriaiiig-  (290  miles),  is  an  impor- 
tant point  on  the  Chemung  River.  The 
feeder  of  the  Chemung  Canal  extends 
hither  from  Elmira.  It  is  the  depot  of 
the  Corning  and  Blosshurg  Railroad, 
which  connects  it  with  the  coal  beds  of 
Pennsylvania.  Incorporated,  1848.  Pres- 
ent population,  7,500.  At  Corning  ter- 
minates also  the  Buffalo  branch  road 
to  Rochester  (90  miles)  and  Buflalo,  via 
Avon  Springs,  142  miles. 

Iloi-Biellsville  (332  miles).  Here 
we  enter  upon  the  fourth  and  last  division 
of  the  Erie  route;  it  is  yet  128  miles  to 
Dunkirk.  The  country  through  the  rest 
of  our  v/ay  is  comparatively  new,  and  no 
important  towns  have  yet  grown  up  with- 
in it.  Pictorially,  this  division  is  the  least 
attractive  of  the  whole  route,  though 
beautiful  scenes  occur  at  intervals  all 
along.  Beyond  Hornellsville  we  enter  the 
valley  of  the  Canisteo  River.  Almond 
and  Alfred  lie  upon  the  banks  of  this 
charming  stream. 

iicaching  Tip  Top  Sictnmit  {the  highest 
grade  of  the  Erie  road,  being  1,700  feet 
above  tide-water),  we  commence  the  de- 
scent into  the  valley  of  the  Genesee,  The 
country  has  but  few  marks  of  human 
habitation  to  cheer  its  lonelv  and  wild 
aspect,  and  lor  many  miles  onward  our 
way  continues  through  a  desolate  forest 
tract,  alternated  only  by  the  stations  and 
little  villages  of  the  road.  Beyond  Guba 
Summit  there  are  many  brooks  and  glens 
of  rugged  beauty.  Passing  Olean,  on  the 
Alleghany  River,  we  come  into  the  lands 
of  the  Indian  Reservation,  where  we  fol- 
low the  wild  banks  of  the  Alleghany,  be- 
tween lofty  hills  as  wild  and  desolate  as 
itself. 

^^laiiiaisica.^  415  miles  from  New 
York,  is  important  as  the  junction  of  the 
Erie  and  Atlantic  and  Great  Western 
Railways,  which  unitedly  form  the  great 
thoroughfare  of  travel  between  New  York 
and  Cincinnati  and  the  Great  West.  At 
Gattaraugus,  428  miles  from  New  York, 
and  31  from  Dunkirk,  we  traverse  a  deep 
valley,  where  the  eye  is  relieved  for  a  lit- 

55 


DcNKir.K.] 


XEW  YORK. 


[Utica. 


tie  while  with  scenes  of  gentler  aspect 
than  the  unljroken  forest  we  have  long 
traversed,  and  are  to  traverse  still.  Three 
miles  beyond  Ferrrfsbiirg  we  catch 
glimpses  of  the  great  Erie  waters,  toward 
which  we  are  now  rapidly  speeding.  Yet 
a  few  miles  and  we  are  out  of  the  dreary 
v/oods,  crossing  again  through  the  more 
habitable  lauds  which  lie  upon  the  lakes. 
l>i»al<ii*lj:. — Hotels,  the  Eastern, 
Eeachinc;  Dunkirk,  on  liake  Erie,  the 
■western  terminus  of  the  Erie  road,  the 
tourist  may  pursue  his  journey  westward 
by  any  one  of  the  numerous  routes  by 
land  or  by  water.  We  have  reached 
our  destination  within  the  State  (Nev>^ 
York),  and  refer  our  travelling  friends  to 
the  Index  for  further  mformation  as  to 
their  route. 


MOUTE   VI. 

TO  BUFFALO  AND  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

(Via    New     York    Ci'ntral  Railway    and 
Branches.) 

Stations. — Albany;  Schenectadv,  l*? 
miles;  Hoffman's,  26;  Tribes  Hill,  39; 
Fonda,  44;  Palatine  Bridge,  55;  St. 
Johnsville,  64;  Little  Falls,  '74;  Herki- 
mer, 81  (see  IIiciiFiELD  Springs);  Utica, 
95;  Rome,  110;  Oneida,  122;  Canastola, 
128;  Chittenango,  134;  Syracuse,  148 
(branch — lower  line — to  Rochester  via 
Auburn  and  Canandaigua) ;  Warner's, 
157;  Port  Bvron,  173;'  Savannah,  180; 
Lyons,  193  ;  Newark,  199  ;  Palmyra,  206  ; 
Fairport,  219;  Rochester,  229  (branch 
to  Niagara  Falls,  via  Lockport) ;  Bergen, 
246  ;  Batavia,  261 ;  Corfu,  273  ;  Bufialo, 
298  (branch  to  Niagara  Falls,  via  Tona- 
wanda).  (For  route  to  Albany,  see  Routes 
IL  and  HL) 

This  great  route  traverses  from  cast  to 
west  the  entire  length  of  the  Empire 
State.  It  has  two  termini  at  the  eastern 
end,  one  at  Albany  and  the  other  at 
Troy,  which  meet,  after  17  miles,  at  Sche- 
nectady. It  then  contiiuics  in  one  line  to 
Syracuse,  148  miles  from  Albany,  when 
it  is  again  a  double  route  for  the  remain- 
der of  tlie  way  ;  the  lower  lip.c,  via  Auburn 
and  Cunandiiigua,  being  looped  up  to  the 
other  at  Rochester,  about  midway  be- 
tween Syracuse  and  Buflalo.  The  upj^er 
66 


route  is  the  more  direct,  and  the  one 
which  we  shall  now  follow.  The  great 
Erie  Canal  traverses  the  State  of  New 
York  from  Albany  to  Buffalo,  nearly  on 
the  same  line  with  the  Central  Railroad. 

Sc'lieBaertady.  — Hotels,  Carley 
Hate  Eaglc\  Giverri's  Hotel.  At  Schenec- 
tady the  railways  from  Albany  and  Troy 
meet,  and  the  Saratoga  route  diverges. 
Schenectady  is  upon  the  right  bank  of 
the  Mohawk  River.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest 
towns  in  the  State,  and  is  distinguished 
as  the  seat  of  Union  College^  founded  in 
1795.  The  council-grounds  of  the  Mo- 
hawks once  formed  the  site  of  the  present 
tov/n.  A  trading-post  was  estabhshed 
by  the  Dutch  as  early  as  1620.  In  the 
winter  of  1600  a  party  of  200  Frenchmen 
and  Canadians,  and  50  Indians,  feM  at 
midnight  upon  Schenectady,  killed  and 
made  captive  its  people,  and  burned  the 
village  to  ashes.  69  persons  were  then 
massacred,  and  27  were  made  prisoners. 
The  church  and  63  houses  were  destroyed. 
It  was  afterward  taken  in  the  French 
war  of  1748,  when  about  70  people  were 
put  to  death.  Population  upward  of 
10,000. 

Leaving  Schenectady  the  road  crosses 
the  Mohawk  River  and  the  Erie  Canal, 
upon  a  bridge  nearly  1,000  feet  in  length. 

E*aiatiiae  i5ridg"e  (55  miles); 
passengers  for  Sharon  Springs  take  stage 
10  miles.     (See  Sharon  Springs.) 

At  F'oi't  l^Isiin.  (G8  miles),  passen- 
gers for  Otst'go  Lake,  Cooperstown,  and 
Cherry  Valley,  proceed  by  stage. 

Kiiltlc  B'^alls  is  remarkable  for  a 
bold  [)assage  of  the  ^lohawk  River  and 
Erie  Canal  through  a  wild  and  most  pictii- 
resciue  defile.  The  scenery,  embracing  the 
river,  rapids,  and  cascades,  the  locks  and 
windings  of  the  canal,  the  bridges,  and 
the  glimpses  far  away  of  the  valley  of  the 
Mohawk,  are  especially  beautiful. 

Utica, — Hotels,  Bagc/s's,  at  the  de- 
pot, and  the  National.  Utica  is  a  large, 
flourishing,  and  handsome  town  on  the 
south  side  of  the  Mohawk  River.  The 
Erie  Canal  and  the  Central  Railway  pass 
through  the  centre  of  the  city.  It  con- 
tains several  handsome  buildings,  among 
which  are  the  Citi/  Hall  and  State  Lvnatic 
Asylum.  It  is  built  upon  the  site  of  old 
Fort  Schuyler,  and  has  now  a  population 
of  25,000. 


Geneva.] 


NEW   YOllK. 


[Rochester. 


Syracuse.  — Hotels,  the  GJohe^ 
tlic  Sip'ticuse,  the  Onondaga.  At  Syra- 
cuse, l-iS  miles  from  Albany,  the  Central 
road  connects  by  rail  with  Binghamton 
oa  the  Erie  route,  and  with  Oswego,  35 
miles  northward.  It  is  pleasantly  situ- 
ate.! on  the  south  end  of  Onondaga  Lake. 
The  most  extensive  salt  manufactories  in 
the  United  States  are  found  here.  It  is 
fdmous,  too,  as  the  meeting- place  of  State, 
political,  and  other  conventions.  Incor- 
porated as  a  village  in  1825,  and  as  a  city 
in  1848.     It  has  a  population  of  35,000. 

jr^^al>iii*ii,  the  capital  of  Cayuga 
County,  is  delightfully  situated  near 
Owasco  Lake,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water 
12  miles  in  length,  which  finds  its  outlet 
through  the  town.  It  is  well  laid  out,  and 
the 'streets  are  pleasantly  shaded.  The 
State  Frhon  is  a  massive  stone  structure. 
The  Theological  Seminar y  and  Acadcing 
are  prominent  institutions.  The  former, 
founded  in  1821,  has  a  line  library.  Gen- 
esee Street  is  the  principal  business  thor- 
oughfare. Auburn  has  long  been  the  resi- 
dence of  Mr.  Seward,  present  Secretary 
of  State. 

Skencateles,  six  miles  distant,  is  a  man- 
ufacturing point  of  some  importance.  It 
lies  at  the  foot  of  Skeneatelcs  Lahe,  a 
charming  water,  16  miles  long, with  ]jic- 
turesque  sliores,  and  good  supplies  of 
trout  and  other  fish.  A  steamboat  plies 
on  the  lake  during  the  summer. 

Caijuga  is  a  pleasant  village  upon  the 
eastern  shore  of  Cayuga  Lake.  Ithaca  is 
38  miles  off,  at  the  other  extremity  of 
the  lake.  These  fine  waters  are  trav- 
ersed daily  by  steamboat,  connecting 
Cayuga  with  Ithaca.  Railway  to  Owego, 
on  the  New  York  and  Erie  route. 

Seneca  Falls,  42  miles  west  of  Syra- 
cuse, is  pleasantly  situated  at  the  outlet 
of  Seneca  Lake,  which  is  one  of  the 
largest  and  most  beautiful  of  the  lakes 
of  V/estern  New  York.  It  is  40  miles 
long,  and  from  tv/o  to  four  wide.  It 
is  very  deep,  and  never  freezes  over. 
Steamboats  run  between  Jefferson,  at  the 
south  end  of  the  lake,  and  Geneva,  at  the 
north  end. 

CMeaieva  is  a  flourishing  city  of 
nearly  7,000  people.  It  is  on  the  Central 
Railway,  midway  between  Syracuse  and 
Rochester.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  Hohart 
Free  College  (founded  under  the  direction 


of  the  Episcopalians  in  1823) ;  also  of  the 
Medical  Institute  of  Geneva  College,  and 
the  Geneva  Union  School. 

Canandaigua  is  a  beauliful  town,  at 
the  north  end  of  Canandaigua  Lake,  2!) 
miles  east  of  Rochester.  The  railroad 
from  Elmira,  on  the  New  York  and  Erie 
route  to  Niagara  Falls,  passes  through 
Canandaigua.  Incorporated  in  1815,  it 
now  contains  G,000  people.  The  lake  is 
about  15  miles  in  length,  and  is  well 
stocked  with  fish. 

lS,oc3aestcr,  Hotels  :  the  Oshurn 
(new),  the  Brackett,  and  the  Congress 
Hotels,  are  among  the  many  excellent 
houses  here. 

Rochester  is  the  largest  and  most  im- 
portant city  upon  our  present  route  be- 
tween Albany  and  Buffalo,  its  population 
being  65,000.  It  was  settled  in  1812, 
and  named  after  Col.  Nathaniel  Roches- 
ter. It  is  the  seat  of  the  Rochester  Uni- 
versity, founded  by  the  Baptists  in  ]850, 
There  is  also  here  a  Baptist  Theological 
Seminary,  founded  in  1850.  The  Roches- 
ter Athenceum  has  a  library  of  14,000 
volumes.  Among  its  picturesque  attrac- 
tions, are  the  Falls  of  Genesee,  upon 
both  sides  of  which  river  the  city  is  built. 
The  Mount  Hope  Cerrietery,  in  the  vicinity, 
13  also  a  spot  of  much  natural  beauty. 
St.  Mary''s  Hospital  is  an  imposing  edifice 
of  cut  stone,  with  accommodation  ibr 
1,000  patients.  The  cut-stone  aqueduct 
by  which  the  Erie  Canal  is  carried  across 
the  Genesee  Riyer  is  worthy  of  notice. 
Rochester  is  connected  by  railway  with 
the  New  York  and  Erie  route  at  Cor- 
ning, and  v/ith  Niagara  Falls  direct,  by 
the  Rochester,  Lockport,  and  Niagara 
Falls  division  of  the  New  Ycrk  Central 
road  (see  p.  58),  and  by  steamboats,  with 
all  ports  on  Lake  Ontario. 

The  Genesee  Falls  are  seen  to  the  best 
advantage  from  the  east  side  of  the 
stream.  The  railroad  cars  pass  about  100 
rods  south  of  the  most  southerly  fail  on 
the  Genesee  River,  so  that  passengers  in 
crossing  lose  the  view.  To  see  the  scene 
properly,  the  visitor  will  cross  the  bridge 
over  tlie  Genesee  above  the  mill,  and 
place  himself  immediately  in  front  of  the 
fall.  This  railway  bridge  is  800  feet 
long  and  234  feet  high.  Some  distance  be- 
yond, a  stairway  conducts  to  the  bottom 
of  the  ravine,  whence  you  may  puss  in  a 


57 


Buffalo.] 


NEW   YORK. 


[Niagara  Falls. 


boat,  or  pick  your  way  along  beneath  the 
spray  ot"  the  tumblmg  floods.  The  walls 
of  this  gorge  are  of  slate-stone  ;  they  rise 
to  a  height  of  more  than  300  feet,  and  in 
the  many  and  sudden  turnings  of  the 
way,  offer  a  grateful  succession  of  noble 
pictures.  These  falls  have  three  perpen- 
dicular pitches  and  two  rapids ;  the  first 
great  cataract  is  SO  rods  below  the  aque- 
duct, the  stream  plunging  perpendicular- 
ly 96  feet  The  ledge  here  recedes  up 
the  river  from  the  centre  to  the  sides, 
breaking  tlie  water  into  three  distinct 
sheets.  From  Table  Hock,  in  the  centre 
of  these  falls,  Sam  Patch  made  his  last 
and  fatal  leap.  The  river  below  the  first 
cataract  is  broad  and  deep,  with  occa- 
sional rapids  to  the  second  tall,  where  it 
again  descends  perpendicularly  20  feet. 
Thence  the  river  pursues  its  course,  which 
is  noisy,  swift,  and  rapid,  to  the  third 
and  last  fall,  over  which  it  pours  its  flood 
down  a  perpendicular  descent  of  105 
feet.  Below  this  fall  are  numerous  rap- 
ids, which  continue  to  Carthage,  the  end 
of  navigation  on  the  Genesee  River  from 
Lake  Ontario.  The  Post-Office  at  ihe 
vilhige  of  Genesee  Falls  is  called  Poriar/e- 
villc.  Portarje  Station  is  on  the  Buffalo 
branch  of  the  New  York  and  Erie  Rail- 
road, 30  miles  from  Ilornellsville. 

ISuiisiio. —  Hotels,  the  Mamioii, 
7(^''s,  and  the  American. 

This  important  commercial  and  man- 
ufacturing city  has  grown  so  great  and  so 
fast,  that  although  it  was  laid  out  as  late 
as  1801,  and  in  1813  had  only  200 
houses,  its  population  now  numbers  145,- 
000.  It  was  incorporated  in  1832,  and 
in  1852  the  charter  was  amended  so  as 
to  include  Black  Rock.  The  city  has  a 
water-front  of  live  miles  in  extent,  and  is 
divided  into  13  wards.  The  city  is  gen- 
erally well  built,  its  streets  being  broad 
and  straight,  and  intersecting  each  other 
at  right  angles.  Main,  Delaware,  and  Ni- 
agara Streets,  are  the  principal  thorough- 
fares. The  public  sc[uares  are  five  in 
number,  and  are  respectively  named 
Nidjara,  Lafat/ctte  Flace,  Woshinr/ioti., 
FrariJclhi,  Jjc/awarr,  and  Terrace  Parka. 
Among  tlie  i)iincii)al  public  buildings  are 
the  Cilii  Hull,  Padlaitiarii,  U.  S.'  Cns- 
lorn-IIoiAse  and  Post-OJ/icc,  Couri-IIouse, 
Jail,  State  Arsenal,  and  Market-Houses. 
Among  the  i»romincnt  literary,  education- 
58 


al,  and  charitable  institutions  of  Buffalo, 
are  the  Buffalo  University,  and  Medical 
School,  chartered  in  1846  ;  the  Young 
Menh  Association,  with  a  library  of 
13,000  volumes ;  the  Buffalo  Female 
Academy,  on  Delaware  Street ;  theBuflalo 
and  St.  Vincent's  Orphan  Asylum;  the 
City  and  Marine  Hospitah,  the  latter 
founded  in  1833;  the  Hospital  of  the 
Sisters  of  Charity,  etc.  The  city  has 
extensive  manufactures  of  iron,  being 
second  only  to  Pittsburg  in  that  impor- 
tant branch  of  industry. 

The  commerce  of  Buffalo  with  the 
West,  by  means  of  the  great  lakes,  is  large 
and  growing.  She  has  30  grain  ware- 
houses, with  a  capacity  of  6,000,000 
bushels  of  grain. 

Buffalo  has  immediate  connection  with 
Niagara  Falls  (22  miles),  five  times  daily, 
via  Jilack  Rock  and  Tonawanda  ;  but  as 
the  route  from  Rochester,  via  Lockport, 
is  14  miles  shorter,  and  is  generally  pre- 
ferred by  travellers  from  New  York  and 
Albany,  we  will  glance  at  that  before 
visiting  the  Falls. 


BOCUESTER,  LOCKPORT,    AXD 
NIAGARA    PALLS 

Division  of  IT.  Y.  Central  R.  R. 

Stations.  —  Rochester  ;  Spencerport, 
10;  Brockport,  17;  Albion,  31;  Medina, 
40 ;  Middleport,  45  ;  Lockport,  56  ;  Lock- 
port  Junction,  59 ;  Suspension  Bridge, 
75  ;  Niagara  Falls,  77. 

Brockport,  Monroe  County,  on  the 
Erie  Canal,  17  miles  west  of  Rochester, 
is  famous  for  its  pimip  manufactures. 

Albion,  the  seat  of  justice  of  Orleans 
County,  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade, 
with  a  population  of  2,000. 

Lockport,  21  miles  east  of  Niagara 
Falls,  is  a  thriving  town  in  the  midst  of 
a  rich  agricultural  reuion.  It  is  famous 
for  its  limestone  quarries  and  its  manu- 
facture of  flour.  Its  poi>ulation  is  15,000, 
and  increasing.  The  roar  of  the  great 
cataract  can  be  heard  here  in  favorable 
conditions  of  the  atmosphere 


J\ias'«i"*  Falls. — Hotels,  upon 
the  American  side  of  the  river,  the  Cat- 
aract House  and  the  International  Hotel 
are  most  excellent  homes  for  the  tourist. 


Niagara  Falls.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[Niagara  Falls. 


On  the  Canada  side,  the  CUfiort  is  an  ex- 
cellent house. 

IvouTES:  From  New  York,  via  Hud- 
son lliver  or  Hudson  River  Railroad, 
to  Albany,  144  miles ;  from  Albany  to 
Buffalo,  via  N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.,  298 
miles  ;  from  Buffalo,  by  Buffalo,  Niagara 
Falls,  and  Lewiston  R,  R.,  22  miles.  Total, 
464  miles.  Same  to  Rochester,  3'73  miles  ; 
and  thence  by  Rochester,  Lockport,  and 
Niagara  R,  R.,  V'?  miles.  Total,  450  miles. 
From  New  York,  via  New  York  and  Erie 
R.  R.,  to  Buffalo,  422  miles;  Buffalo  (as 
above),  by  Buffalo,  Niagara  Falls,  and  Lew- 
iston R.  R.  (to  Niagai-a),  22  miles.  Total, 
444  miles.  From  New  York,  by  New  York 
and  Erie  R.  R.  to  Elmira,  274  miles  ; 
from  Elmira  to  Niagara,  by  Elmira,  Can- 
andaigua,  and  Niagara  Falls  R.  R.,  166 
miles.  Total,  440  miles.  From  Heio 
York  to  Albany,  by  Hudson  River,  144 
miles ;  thence  to  Ti'oy,  six  miles.  Rail- 
way from  Troy  to  Whitehall,  65  miles ; 
from  Whitehall  by  steamer  on  Lake 
Champlain,  to  St.  Johns,  150  miles;  St. 
Johns  to  La  Prairie  Railroad,  15  miles ; 
La  Prairie,  by  steamboat  on  the  St.  Law- 
rence to  Montreal,  nine  miles ;  from 
Montreal  (Grand  Trunk  Railroad  and 
other  lines  to  Niagara),  railroad  and  steam- 
boat, 436  miles.     Total,  727  miles. 

The  falls  are  situated  on  the  river  of 
the  same  name,  a  strait  connecting  the 
floods  of  Lakes  Erie  and  Ontario,  and  di- 
viding a  portion  of  the  State  of  New  York 
on  the  west  from  the  Province  of  Canada. 
The  cataracts  thus  lie  within  the  terri- 
tory both  of  Great  Britain  and  the 
United  States.  They  are  some  20  miles 
below  the  entrance  of  the  river,  at  the 
northeast  extremity  of  Lake  Erie,  and 
about  14  miles  above  its  junction  with 
Lake  Ontario. 

The  River  Niagara  (signifying  in  the 
Iroquois  language  "  Thunder  of  Waters") 
takes  its  rise  in  the  western  extremity  of 
Lake  Erie,  and  after  flowing  33|  miles 
enters  Lake  Ontai-io,  which  is  334  feet 
below  Lake  Erie.  The  waters  for  which 
the  Niagara  is  the  outlet,  cover  an  area 
of  150,000  square  miles — floods  so  grand 
and  inexhaustible  as  to  be  utterly  uncon- 
scious of  the  loss  of  the  hundred  mil- 
lions of  tons  which  they  pour  every  hour, 
through  succeeding  centuries,  over  the^e 
stupendous  precipices. 


TJie  Approach.  — The  best  approach  to 
the  Falls  is  that  most  usually  taken,  viz., 
by  the  American  shore.  "  The  descent 
of  about  200  feet,  by  the  staircase,  brings 
the  traveller  directly  under  the  shoulder 
and  edge  of  the  American  Fall,  the  most 
imposing  scene,  for  a  single  object,  that 
he  probably  has  ever  witnessed.  The  long 
column  of  sparkling  water  seems,  as  he 
stands  near  it,  to  descend  to  an  immeas- 
urable depth,  and  the  bright  sea-green 
curve  above  has  the  appearance  of  being 
set  into  the  sky.  The  tremendous  power 
of  the  Fall,  as  well  as  the  height,  realizes 
his  utmost  expectations.  He  descends  to 
the  water's  edge  and  embarks  in  a  ferry- 
boat, which  tosses  like  an  egg-shell  on  the 
heaving  and  convulsed  water,  and  in  a 
minute  or  two  he  finds  himself  in  the  face 
of  the  vast  Hue  of  the  Falls,  and  sees  with 
surprise  that  he  has  expended  his  fullest 
admiration  and  astonishment  upon  a  mere 
thread  of  Niagara — the  thousandth  part 
of  its  wondrous  volume  and  grandeur. 
From  the  point  Avhere  he  crosses  to  Table 
Rock,  the  line  of  the  Falls  measures  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  m  length  ;  and  it  is  this 
immense  extent  which,  more  than  any 
other  feature,  takes  the  traveller  by  sur- 
prise. The  current  at  the  ferry  sets  very 
strongly  down,  and  the  athletic  men  who 
are  employed  here  keep  the  boat  up 
against  it  with  difficulty.  Arrived  near 
the  opposite  landing,  however,  there  is  a 
slight  counter-current,  and  the  large  rocks 
near  the  shore  serve  as  a  breakwater,  be- 
hind which  the  boat  runs  smoothly  to  her 
moorings."  The  passage  is  now  safely 
and  pleasantly  made  by  the  steamer 
"  Maid  of  the  Mist." 

It  is  from  the  American  side  of  the 
river  that  access  is  had  to  the  hundred 
points  of  interest  and  surprise  in  the 
famous  Goat  Island  vicinage,  with  its  con- 
necting bridges,  its  views  of  the  Rapids, 
of  the  Cave  of  the  Winds,  of  the  scene 
of  Sam  Patch's  great  leap,  and  of  its  bold 
overtopping  tower;  and  in  other  neigh- 
borhoods of  the  Whirlpool,  of  the  Chasm 
Tower,  and  the  Devil's  Hole. 

A  totally  different  and  not  less  wonder- 
ful gallery  of  natural  master-pieces  is 
opened  upon  the  Canada  shore — the  ter- 
rible marvels  of  the  Table  Rock  above, 
and  of  Termination  Rock  behind  the 
mighty  Horse-Shoe  Fall ;  the  noble  pano- 

59 


Niagara  Falls.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[Niagara  Falls. 


raina  from  the  piazzas  of  the  Chfton 
House,  the  Burning  Spring,  the  historical 
village  of  Chippewa,  and  the  battle-field 
of  Lundy's  Lane,  Bender's  Cave,  etc. 

Goat  Idanl.  (American  side. ) — Leav- 
ing the  Cataract  llouse,  take  the  first  left- 
hand  street,  two  minutes'  walk  to  the 
bridge,  which  leads  to  the  toll-gate  on 
Bath  Island.  This  bridge  is  itself  an  ob- 
ject of  wonder,  in  its  apparently  rash 
and  dangerous  position.  It  is,  however, 
perfectly  safe,  and  is  crossed  hourly  by 
heavy-laden  carriages. 

Tlie  Rapids,  as  seen  on  the  way  to 
Goat  Island,  are  impressive  The  river 
descends  51  feet  in  a  distance  of  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  by  this  inextrica- 
ble turmoil  of  waters.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  striking  features  of  the  Niagara 
scenery.  Standing  on  the  bridge,  and 
gazing  thence  up  the  angry  torrent,  the 
leaping  crests  seem  like  "  a  battle-charge 
of  tempestuous  waves  animated  and  in- 
furiated against  the  sky.  Nearer  the 
plunge  of  the  Fall,  the  Rapids  become 
still  more  agitated,  and  it  is  impossible 
for  the  spectator  to  rid  himself  of  the 
idea  that  they  are  conscious  of  the  abyss 
to  which  tliey  are  hurrying,  and  struggle 
back  in  the  very  extremity  of  horror. 
This  propensity  to  invest  Niagara  with  a 
soul  and  human  feelings  is  a  common  ef- 
fect upon  the  minds  of  visitors,  in  every 
part  of  its  wonderful  phenomena.  The 
toiture  of  the  Rapids,  the  clinging  cui'ves 
with  which  they  embrace  the  small  rocky 
islands  that  live  amid  the  surge;  the  sud- 
den calmness  at  the  brow  of  the  cataract, 
and  tliC  infernal  writhe  and  whiteness 
with  which  they  reappear,  powerless, 
from  the  depths  of  the  abyss — all  seem, 
to  the  excited  imagination  of  the  gazer, 
like  the  natural  eifccts  of  impending  ruin 
— desperate  resolution  and  fearful  agony 
on  the  minds  and  frames  of  mortals." 

Chap'm'a  Island  is  upon  the  right  of  the 
bridge,  within  a  short  distance  of  the 
American  Fall.  It  is  named  in  memory 
of  a  workman  whose  life  was  imperilled 
by  falling  into  the  stream,  as  lie  was 
laboring  upon  the  bridge.  Mr.  Robin.son 
went  gallantly  and  successfully  to  his  re- 
lief in  a  skid". 

The  Toll  Gafe  is  upon  Bath  Island, 
where  baths,  warm  and  otherwise,  are  ac- 
cessible at  all  times  to  visitors.  A  fee 
60 


of  25  cents  paid  here,  gives  you  the  free- 
dom of  Goat  Island,  during  all  your  stay, 
be  it  for  the  year  or  less.  Near  this 
point  are  Ship  and  Big  Islands.  There 
is  here  a  very  extensive  paper-mill. 
Crossing  another  small  bridge,  we  stand 
upon  Iris  Island.  (See  Prospect  Tower.) 
The  only  place  of  habitation  here  is  a 
house  at  which  the  traveller  can  supply 
himself  with  refreshments  of  all  inviting 
kinds,  and  store  his  trunks  with  every 
variety  of  samples  of  Indian  ingenuity 
and  labor.  The  place  is  called  the  Indian 
Emporium.  Three  routes  over  the  island 
diverge  at  this  point.  The  principal  path 
followed  by  most  vi;;itors  is  that  to  the 
right,  which  keeps  the  best  of  the  sights, 
as  Wisdom  always  does,  until  the  last ; 
affording  less  striking  views  of  the  Falls 
than  do  the  other  routes  at  first,  but  fi\r 
surpassing  them  both  in  its  ^x-\w(\.  finale. 
This  way  conducts  to  the  foot  of  the 
island,  while  the  left-hand  path  seeks 
the  head,  and  the  middle  winds  across. 
Taking  the  right-hand  path,  then,  from 
the  Toll  Gate,  we  come,  first,  to  the 
centre  Fall,  called  The  Cave  of  tJie  Winds 
(see  Termination  Rock),  mid-distant 
nearly  between  the  American  and  the 
Ilorse-Shoe  Falls.  This  wonderful  scene 
is  best  and  most  securely  enjoyed  from 
the  spacious  flat  rock  beneath.  The  cave 
is  100  feet  high,  and  of  the  same  extent 
in  width.  You  can  pass  safely  into  the 
recess  behind  the  water,  to  a  platform 
beyond.  Magical  rainbow-pictures  are 
formed  at  this  spot ;  sometimes  bows  of 
entire  circles,  and  two  or  three  at  once, 
are  seen.  At  the  foot  of  Goat  Island  the 
Three  Profiles  form  an  object  of  curious 
interest.  These  profiles,  seemingly  some 
two  feet  long,  are  to  be  seen,  one  directly 
above  the  other,  as  you  look  across  the 
first  sheet  of  water,  directly  under  the 
lowest  point  of  rock.  They  are  some- 
times called  the  Three  Sisters. 

Luna  Island  \s  reached  by  a  foot  bridge, 
from  the  right  of  Goat  Island.  It  has  an 
area  of  some  three-quarters  of  an  acre. 
The  elTeetive  rainbow  forms,  seen  at  this 
point,  have  given  it  the  name  it  bears. 
A  child  of  eight  years  once  fell  into  the 
torrent  at  this  point,  and  was  lost,  to- 
gether with  a  gallant  lad  who  jumped  in 
ta  rescue  her,  Biddle^s  Staii's,  on  the 
west  side  of  the  island,  was  named  after 


HoRSE-SiiOE  Fall.] 


NEW   YORK. 


[Niagara  Falls. 


Nicholas  Biddlc,  of  United  States  Bank 
fame,  by  whose  order  they  were  built. 
"Make  us  something,"  he  is  reported  to 
have  said  to  the  workmen,  "  by  which 
we  may  descend  and  see  what  is  below." 
At  the  base  of  these  spiral  stairs,  which 
are  secured  to  the  rocks  by  strong  iron 
fastenings,  there  are  two  diverging  paths. 
The  up  river  way,  toward  the  Horse-Shoe 
Fall,  is  difficult,  and  much  obstructed  by 
fallen  rocks ;  but  down  the  current  a 
noble  view  is  gained  of  the  centre  Fall  or 
Cave  of  the  Winds.  Sam  Patches  Leap. 
— It  was  upon  the  west  side  of  Goat 
Island,  near  Biddle's  Stairs,  that  the  re- 
nowned jumper,  Sam  Patch,  made  two 
successful  leaps  into  the  waters  below, 
sayhig,  as  he  went  off,  to  the  throng  of 
spectators,  that  "  one  thing  might  be  done 
as  well  as  another ! "  The  fellow  made 
one  jump  too  much,  within  the  same  year 
(1829),  over  the  Genesee  Falls,  at  lioch- 
ester. 

Reascending  the  Biddle  Stairs,  we 
come,  after  a  few  rods'  travel,  to  a  resting- 
place  at  a  little  house,  and  thence  we  go 
down  the  bank,  and  crossing  a  bridge, 
reach  Prospect  {Terrapin)  Toiver.  This 
precarious  placed  edifice,  which  seems 
to  have  "  rushed  in,  as  fools  do,  where 
angels  fear  to  tread,"  is  on  Iris  Island, 
very  near  the  edge  of  the  precipice, 
above  which  it  rises  some  45  feet  in  the 
air.  From  the  top,  which  is  surrounded 
by  an  iron  railing,  a  magnificent  scene  is 
presented — a  panorama  of  the  Niagara 
wonders — the  like  of  which  can  be  seen 
from  no  other  point.  Here  a  rerjister  for 
visitors  is  kept. 

Tlae  Iloi-se-SSioe  Fall— al- 
ways marvellous  from  whatever  position  it 
is  viewed — forms  the  connecting  link  be- 
tween the  scenes  of  the  American  and 
Canadian  sides  of  the  river.  This  mighty 
cataract  is  144  rods  across,  and  it  is  said 
by  Prof.  Lyell  that  fifteen  hundred  mil- 
lions of  cubic  feet  of  water  pass  over 
its  ledges  every  hour.  One  of  the  con- 
demned lake  ships  (the  Detroit)  was  sent 
over  this  fall  in  1829,  and,  though  she 
drew  18  feet  of  water,  she  did  not  touch 
the  rock's  in  passing  over  the  brink  of 
the  pi'ccipice,  showing  a  solid  body  of 
water,  at  least  some  20  feet  deep,  to  be 
above  the  ledge.  We  shall  return  to  the 
Horse-Shoe  Fall  from  the  Canada  side. 


Gull  IsIaruJ,  just  above,  is  an  unap- 
proachable spot,  upon  which  it  is  not 
likely  or  possible  that  mnn  has  ever  yet 
stood.  There  are  three  other  small  isles 
seen  from  here,  called  the  Three  Siders. 
Near  the  Three  Sisters,  on  Goat  Island, 
is  the  spot  remembered  as  the  resort  of 
an  eccentric  character,  and  called,  after 
him,  the  Bathing-Place  of  Francis  Abbott 
t':e  Hermit.  At  the  head  of  Goat  Island 
is  Navy  Island^  near  the  Canada  shore.  It 
was  the  scene  of  incidents  in  the  Cana- 
dian rebellion  of  ISS'Z-'oB,  known  as  the 
McKenzie  War.  Chippcioa,  which  hehl 
at  that  period  some  5,000  British  troops, 
is  upon  the  Canadian  shore,  nearly  oppo- 
site. It  was  near  Fort  Schlosser,  hard 
by,  that,  about  this  period,  the  American 
steamboat  Caroline,  was  set  on  fire,  and 
sent  over  the  falls,  by  the  order  of  Col. 
McNabb,  a  British  ofiicer.  Some  frag- 
ments of  the  wreck  lodged  on  Gull  Island, 
where  they  remained  until  the  following 
spring. 

Grand  Island,  which  contains  11,000 
acres,  was  the  spot  on  which  Major  M.  M. 
Noah  hoped  to  assemble  all  the  Hebrew 
populations  of  the  world.  Near  the  ferry 
there  was  once  an  observatory  or  pago- 
da, 100  feet  high,  from  which  a  grand 
view  of  the  region  was  gained.  This  spot 
is  called  Point  Vieiv. 

The  Whirlpool. — Three  miles  below 
the  Falls  (American  side)  is  the  Whirl- 
pool, resembling  in  its  appearance  the 
celebrated  Maelstrom  on  the  coast  of 
Norway.  It  is  occasioned  by  the  river 
making  nearly  a  right  angle,  while  it  is 
here  narrower  than  at  any  other  place, 
not  being  more  than  30  rods  wide,  and 
tlie  current  running  with  such  velocity 
as  to  rise  up  in  the  middle  10  feet  above 
the  sides.  This  has  been  ascertained  by 
measurement.  There  is  a  path  leading 
down  the  bank  to  the  Whirlpool  on  both 
sides,  and,  though  somewhat  diflicult  to 
descend  and  ascend,  it  is  accomphshed 
almost  every  day. 

The  Devil's  Hole  is  a  mile  below  the 
Whirlpool.  It  embraces  about  two  acres, 
cut  out  laterally  and  perpendicularly  in 
the  rock  by  the  side  of  the  river,  and  is 
150  feet  deep.  An  angle  of  this  hole  or 
gulf  comes  within  a  few  feet  of  the  stage- 
road,  affording  travellers  an  opportunity, 
without   ahghting,   of  looking  into   the 

61 


Chasm  Tower.] 


KEW   YORK. 


[Table  Rock. 


yawning  abyss.  But  they  should  alight, 
and  pass  to  the  farther  side  of  the  flat 
projecting  rock,  where  they  will  feel 
themselves  richly  repaid  for  their  trouble. 
Into  the  Devil's  Hole  falls  a  stream 
known  l>y  the  unpoetical  name  of  the 
Lloochi  Run. 

Clia^iia.  To^ver,  three  and  a  half 
miles  below  the  Falls,  is  75  feet  high,  and 
commands  fine  views  (seen,  if  you  please, 
in  all  hues,  through  a  specular  medium) 
of  all  the  country  round.  A  fee  is  re- 
quired. The  Suspens'wn  Bridf/e  spans 
the  river  two  miles  below  the  Falls.  Its 
total  length,  from  centre  to  centre  of  the 
towers,  is  800  feet ;  its  height  above  the 
water,  258  feet.  The  first  bridge,  which 
was  built  by  Mr.  Charles  Ellett,  Avas  a 
very  light  and  fairy -Uke  affaii',  in  com- 
parison with  the  present  substantial 
structure.  The  bridge,  as  it  now  stands, 
was  constructed  imder  the  direction  of 
Jlr.  John  A.  Roebling,  at  a  cost  of  $500,- 
000.  The  same  able  architect  and  en- 
gineer is  now  engaged  on  the  suspension 
bridge  across  the  Ohio,  at  Cincinnati. 
The  towers  are  66  feet  high,  15  feet 
square  at  the  base,  and  8  feet  at  the  top. 
The  bridge  is  supported  l)y  four  cables, 
each  being  nine  and  a  half  inches  in  diam- 
eter, and  composed  of  8,000  wires.  It 
was  first  crossed  by  the  locomotive  March 
8,  1855.  Twenty-eight  feet  below  the 
floor  of  the  railway  tracks  a  carriage  and 
footway  is  suspended.  This  bridge  is 
used  at  present  by  the  New  York  Cen- 
tral, the  Erie,  and  the  Great  Western 
(Canada)  roads.  Having  examined  the 
bridge,  we  will  now  cross  it  to  the  oppo- 
site shore.  Taking  a  carriage  at  our 
hotel,  on  the  American  side,  we  may 
"  do  "  the  Canadian  shore  very  comfort- 
ably between  breakfast  and  dinner,  if  we 
have  no  more  time  to  spare.  The  reg- 
idar  price  of  carriage  hire  at  the  livery 
stables  is  one  dollar  ])er  hour.  Make  your 
contract  when  you  engage,  as  overcharges 
are  fashionable.  On  the  plank  road,  going 
and  returning,  the  toll  is  five  cents;  at 
the  bridge,  for  each  foot  passenger,  going 
and  returning  the  same  day,  25  cents,  or 
12.^  each  way.  If  the  passenger  does 
not  return,  the  bridge  toll  is  still  25  cents. 
For  each  carriage  (two  horses),  going  and 
returning,  CO  cents  for  each  passenger, 
and  50  cents  besides  for  the  carriage. 
62 


A  plank  road  leads  from  the  opposite 
terminus  of  the  bridge  to  the  Clifton 
House.  At  the  bridge  is  shown  a  basket 
in  which  Mr.  Ellett,  his  wife,  and  other 
ladies  and  gentlemen,  crossed  over  the 
river  on  a  single  wire,  about  one  inch  in 
diameter.  A  perilous  journey  across 
such  a  gorge  and  at  an  elevation  in  the 
air  of  280  feet !  Two  or  three  persons 
thus  crossed  at  a  time,  the  basket  being 
let  down  on  an  inclined  plane  to  the  cen- 
tre of  the  towers  (this  was  during  the 
building  of  the  first  suspension  bridge), 
and  then  drawn  up  by  the  help  of  a  wind- 
lass to  the  opposite  side.  The  usual 
time  in  crossing  was  from  three  to  four 
minutes.  By  the  means  of  this  basket 
the  lives  of  four  men  were  once  saved, 
when  the  planks  of  the  foot  bridge  were 
blown  off  in  a  violent  storm,  and  they 
were  suspended  over  the  river  by  only 
two  strands  of  wire,  which  oscillated,  with 
immense  rapidity,  60  or  70  feet.  The 
basket  was  sent  to  their  relief,  at  a  mo- 
ment when  the  hurricane  grew  less  fear- 
ful, and  they  descended  into  it  by  means 
of  a  ladder,  one  at  a  trip  only,  until  all 
were  released  from  their  terrible  position. 
The  exploits  of  Blondin  and  Leslie,  with 
which  our  readers  are  all  doubtless  fa- 
miliar, have  since  thrown  these  ventures 
far  in  the  shade. 

Bendcr''s  Cave  is  midway  between  the 
Suspension  Bridge  and  the  Clifton  House. 
It  is  a  recess  six  feet  high  and  twenty  in 
length,  made  by  a  decomposition  of  the 
limestone. 

The  CJlfioii  House  is  an  old  and  very 
fiivorite  resort  here,  famed  for  its  home 
luxuries  and  for  its  noble  position,  over- 
looking the  river  and  Falls.  It  was  the 
residence  of  Mdlle.  Jenny  Lind  during 
her  visit  to  Niagara.  It  stands  nearly 
opposite  the  centre  of  the  irregular  cres- 
cent formed  by  the  Falls ;  but  it  is  so  far 
back  from  the  line  of  the  arc,  that  the 
height  and  grandeur  of  the  two  cataracts, 
to  an  eye  unacquainted  with  the  scene, 
are  respectively  diminished.  After  once 
making  the  tour  of  the  points  of  view, 
however,  the  distance  and  elevation  of 
the  hotel  are  allowed  for  by  the  ej'e,  and 
the  situation  seems  most  advantageous. 

Tabic  Hock  exists  now  onlv  in  name, 
and  the  sort  of  posthumous  interest 
which  attaches  to  the  spot  where  it  stood. 


Termination  Rock.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[TiiK  Museum. 


The  grand  overhanging  platform  called 
Table  Rock,  and  the  fearful  abysmal 
scene  at  the  vei^y  base  of  the  mighty  llorsc- 
Shoe  Fall,  once  constituted  one  of  the 
cardinal  wonders  of  Niagara.  This  fa- 
mous rock  fell  in  1862,  but  the  vicinity  is 
still  a  place  much  resorted  to  by  visitors 
at  the  Falls.  If  one  would  listen  to  the 
terrible  noise  of  the  great  cataract,  let 
him  come  here,  where  the  sound  of  its 
hoarse  utterance  drowns  all  lesser  sounds, 
and  his  own  speech  is  inaudible  to  him- 
self. 

Termination  JRock  occupies  a  recess 
behind  the  centre  of  the  Horse-Shoe  Fall, 
reached  by  the  descent  of  a  spiral  stair- 
way from  Table  Rock,  the  traverse  for  a 
short  distance  of  the  rude  mar^re  of  the 
river,  and  then  of  a  narrow  path  over  a 
frightful  ledge  and  through  the  blinding 
spray,  behind  the  mighty  Fall.  Before  de- 
scending visitors  should  make  a  com- 
plete change  of  toilet  for  a  rough  costume 
more  suitable  for  the  stormy  and  rather 
damp  journey  before  them.  When  fully 
equipped,  their  ludicrous  appearance  ex- 
cites for  a  while  a  mirthful  feeling,  in 
singular  contrast  with  the  solemn  senti- 
ment of  all  the  scene  around  them.  This 
strange  expedition,  often  made  even  by 
ladies,  has  been  thus  described :  "  The 
guide  went  before,  and  we  followed  close 
under  the  clitf.  A  cold,  clammy  wind 
blew  strong  in  our  faces  from  the  mo- 
ment we  left  the  shelter  of  the  staircase, 
and  a  few  steps  brought  us  into  a  pelting 
fine  rain,  that  penetrated  every  opening 
of  our  dresses  and  made  our  foothold 
very  slippery  and  difficult.  We  were  not 
yet  near  the  sheet  of  water  we  were  to 
walk  through ;  but  one  or  two  of  the 
party  gave  out  and  returned,  declaring 
it  was  impossible  to  breathe  ;  and  the 
rest,  imitating  the  guide,  bent  nearly 
double  to  keep  the  beating  spray  from 
theii  nostrils,  and  pushed  on,  with  enough 
to  do  to  keep  sight  of  his  heels.  We  ar- 
rived near  the  difficult  point  of  our  prog- 
ress ;  and  in  the  midst  of  a  confusion 
of  blinding  gusts,  half  deafened,  and 
more  than  half  drowned,  the  guide  stop- 
ped to  give  us  a  hold  of  his  skirts  and  a 
little  counsel.  All  that  could  be  heard 
amid  the  thunder  of  the  cataract  beside 
us  was  an  injunction  to  push  on  when  it 
got  to  the  worst,  as  it  was  shorter  to  get 


beyond  the  sheet  tlian  to  go  back;  and 
with  this  pleasant  statement  of  our  dilem- 
ma, we  faced  about  with  the  longest 
breath  we  could  draw,  and  encountered 
the  enemy.  It  may  be  supposed  that 
every  person  Avho  has  been  dragged 
through  the  column  of  water  which  ob- 
structs the  entrance  to  the  cavern  behind 
this  cataract,  has  a  very  tolerable  idea  of 
the  pains  of  drowning.  What  is  wanting 
in  the  density  of  the  element  is  more 
than  made  up  by  the  force  of  the  con- 
tending winds,  which  rush  into  the 
mouth,  eyes,  and  nostrils,  as  if  flying 
from  a  water-fiend.  The  '  courage  of 
worse  behind  '  alone  persuades  the  gasp- 
ing sufferer  to  take  one  desperate  step 
more." 

The  Museum^  near  Table  Rock,  con- 
tains more  then  10,000  specimens  of 
minerals,  birds,  fishes,  and  animals,  many 
of  which  were  collected  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  Falls.  Admittance — which 
includes  the  use  of  the  dress  and  admis- 
sion to  the  Cave  of  the  Winds,  50  cents. 
The  Burning  Spring  is  near  the  water, 
two  miles  above  the  Falls.  The  cai'bon- 
ated  sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas  here 
gives  out  a  brilliant  flame  when  lighted. 
The  height  of  the  American  Fall  is  164 
feet,  that  of  the  Canadian  or  Horse-shoe 
150  feet.  The  former  is  900  feet  across, 
the  latter  1,900.  The  roar  of  the  waters 
has  been  heard  at  Toronto,  44  miles 
away,  and  yet  in  some  states  of  wind  and 
atmosphere  it  is  scarcely  perceptible  in 
the  immediate  neighborhood.  Niagara 
presents  a  new  and  most  unique  as- 
pect in  winter,  when  huge  icicles  hang 
from  the  precipices,  and  immense  frozen 
piles  of  a  thousand  fantastic  shapes  glit- 
ter in  the  bright  sunlight.  Father  Hen- 
nepin, a  Jesuit  missionary,  was  the  first 
European  who  ever  saw  Niagara.  His 
visit  was  in  1678. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Niagara  is  Leiois- 
ton.,  seven  miles  distant,  at  the  head  of 
navi2;ation  on  Lake  Ontario  —  and  di- 
rectly  opposite  Lewiston  is  Queeustown. 
Queenstnwn  is  well  worthy  a  visit 
from  the  sojourner  at  the  Falls,  and  af- 
fords a  most  delightful  drive.  It  is  his- 
torically as  well  as  pictorially  interesting. 
Here  General  Brock  and  his  aide-de-camp 
McDonnell  fell,  October  11,  1812. 
Brock^s  Ifomcment,   which    crowns    the 

63 


Saranac  Lakes.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[Sap.anac  Lakes. 


heights  above  the  village,  is  185  feet 
high,  surmounted  by  a  dome  of  nine  feet, 
wiiich  is  reached  by  a  spiral  flight  of  250 
steps  from  the  base  inside.  The  remains 
of  Brock  and  his  comrade  lie  in  stone 
sarcophagi  beneath,  having  been  re- 
moved thither  from  Fort  George.  This 
is  the  second  monument  erected  on  the 
spot,  the  first  having  been  destroyed  by 
Lett,  in  1840. 


210UTJE  rii. 

TITE  ADinOXDACK  3fOUXTAJXS,  SAIi- 
AXAC  LAKES,  ETC. 

{For  routes,  see  p.  GG.) 

The  upper  part  of  the  State  of  New 
York,  lying  west  and  south  of  Lake 
Champlain  and  tlie  St.  liawrence  Eirer, 
respectively,  is  still  a  wild  primitive  for- 
est region,  of  the  highest  interest  to  the 
tourist  for  its  wonderful  natural  beauties, 
and  for  the  ample  facilities  it  offers  for 
the  pleasures  of  the  rod  and  the  rifle. 
Fine  mountain-peaks  stud  the  whole 
region,  and  charming  lakes  and  lakelets 
are  so  abundant  that  travel  here  is  made 
by  water  instead  of  by  land — traversing 
the  ponds  in  i-ovz-boats  or  canoes,  which 
are  carried  by  easy  portage  from  one  lovely 
brook  or  lake  to  another.  Deer  fdl  the 
woods,  and  trout  are  found  in  the  trans- 
parent floods  everywhere.  This  wilder- 
ness land  is  visited  at  various  points 
under  distinctive  names,  as  the  hunting- 
grounds  of  the  Saranncs,  of  the  Chateau- 
gay  woods,  of  the  Adirondacks,  and  of 
Lake  I'leasant,  etc.  We  shall  speak  of 
these  several  divisions,  briefly,  in  order, 

T/ic  Saranac  Lakes. — These  wonder- 
ful links  of  the  great  chain  of  mountain 
waters  in  upper  New  York  are  about  a 
(lozcn  in  number,  large  and  small.  They 
lie  principally  iu  Franklin  County,  and 
may  be  most  readily  reached  by  stage 
from  Wcstport  or  from  Keesoville,  about 
n.idway  on  the  western  shore  of  Lake 
Champlain  — taking  stage  or  private  con- 
veyance thence  (MO  miles)  to  the  banks 
of  the  Lower  Saranac — which  is  the 
outer  edge  of  civilization  in  this  (lircr'tion. 
From  J^ort  luiil^  on  Lake  Cliamplain,  to 
the  foot  of  the  Lower  Saranac,  is  an  easy 
64 


day's  journey.  There  is  a  little  village 
and  an  inn  or  two  at  this  point,  and  here 
guides  and  boats,  with  all  proper  camp 
equipage  for  forest  life,  maybe  pi'ocured. 
Baker''s,  two  miles  from  the  Lower  Sar- 
anac, and  3lar(i?i's,  are  pleasant  stopping 
places.  For  this  route  the  tourist  must 
engage  a  boatman,  who,  for  a  compensa- 
tion of  two  or  three  dollars  per  day — the 
price  will  be  no  more  if  he  should  have 
extra  passengers — will  provide  a  boat, 
with  tent  and  kitchen  apparatus,  dogs, 
rifles,  etc.  The  tourist  will  supply,  be- 
fore starting,  such  stores  as  coffee,  tea, 
biscuit,  etc.,  and  the  sport  by  the  way, 
conducted  by  himself  or  by  his  guide,  will 
keep  him  furnished  with  trout  and  ven- 
ison. If  camp  life  should  not  please 
him,  he  may,  with  some  little  incon- 
venience, so  measure  and  direct  his  move- 
ments as  to  sleep  in  some  one  or  other  of 
the  shanties  of  the  hunters,  or  of  the 
lumbermen  found  here  and  there  on  the 
way.  The  tent  in  the  forest,  however,  is 
preferable. 

]?cturning  from  Sf.  Reqis,  and  back 
via  the  Upper  to  the  Middle  Saranac,  we 
continue  our  journey,  by  portage,  to  the 
Slou}/  Crtek  ponds — thence  three  miles 
by  Stony  Creek  to  the  Kacquctte  River — 
a  rapid  stream,  with  wonderful  forest 
vegetation  upon  its  banks.  This  water 
followed  for  some  20  miles  brings  us 
to  Tnppcr^s  Lair — the  finest  part  of 
the  Saranac  region.  Tupper's  Lake  is 
the  largest  of  this  chain,  being  seven 
miles  long,  and  from  one  to  two  miles 
broad.  The  shores  and  headlands  and 
islands  are  especially  picturesque  and 
bold,  and  at  this  point  the  deer  is  much 
more  easily  found  than  elsev.-hcre  in  the 
neighborhood.  Below  Tupper's  Lake — 
the  waters  commingling — is  L^oyc/hncah, 
another  charming  pond.  The  chain  con- 
tinues on  yet  for  miles,  but  the  Saranac 
trip,  proper,  ends  here.  This  mountain 
voyage  and  the  return  to  Lake  C]iami)lain 
might  be  made  in  a  week,  but  two  or 
three,  or  even  more,  should  be  given  to 
it.  It  is  seldom  that  ladies  make  the 
excursion,  but  they  might  do  so  with 
great  delight.  The  boatmen  and  hunters 
of  the  region  are  fine,  hearty,  intelligent 
and  obliging  fellows.  That  wonderful 
ravine,  the  "  Walled  Banks  of  the  Au 
Sable,"  (see  Index)  should  be  seen  by 


Adirondack  Mountains.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[Lake  Pleasant. 


the  Saranac  tourist  on  his  way  from  Lake 
Champlain  to  Keeseville.  Ilaramoud,  in 
his  excellent  work,  "  Uills,  Lakes,  and 
Forest  Streams,"  gives  an  excellent  route 
from  Danneraora,  in  Clinton  County,  via 
Chazy  Lake,  Bradley's  Fond,  the  Upper 
Chateaugay,  Ragged  Luke,  Indian  and 
Meacham  Lakes,  Big  Clear  Bond,  St.  Regis 
Lake  to  the  Upper  Saranac. 

Leaving  the  Lower  Saranac,  we  will  pass 
pleasantly  along  some  half-dozen  miles — 
then  make  a  short  portage,  the  guide 
carrying  the  huge  boat  by  a  yoke  on  the 
back,  to  the  Middle  Saranac — there  we 
may  go  on  to  the  upper  lake  of  the  same 
name,  and  thence  by  a  long  portage  of 
three  miles  to  Lake  St.  Regis.  These  are 
all  large  and  beautiful  waters,  full  of  pict- 
uresque islands,  and  hemmed  in  upon  all 
sides  by  fine  mountain  ranges.  Trout 
may  be  taken  readily  at  the  inlets  of  all 
the  brooks,  and  deer  may  be  found  in  the 
forests  almost  at  will. 

TTiae  Ailia'osatlaclc  Mozisi- 
taisiis*. — The  Adirondack  region  era- 
braces  the  eastern  portion  of  the  pla- 
teau which  forms  the  Wilderness  of 
Northern  New  York.  It  may  be  reached 
by  private  conveyance  over  a  rude  moun- 
tain-road from  Schroon  Lake,  above 
Lake  George,  or  more  conveniently 
from  Crown  Point  village,  just  beyond 
the  ruins  of  Fort  Ticonderoga,  on  Lake 
Champlain.  The  distance  thence  is  some 
30  miles,  and  requires  a  day  to  travel. 
The  tourist  in  this  i-egion  will  move  about 
by  land  more  than  by  water,  as  among 
the  Saranacs  ;  for,  although  the  lakes  are 
numerous  enough,  it  is  among  and  upon 
the  hills  that  the  chief  attractions  are  to 
be  found.  The  accommodations,  though 
still  rude  enough,  are  much  better  than  in 
former  years.  Stopping  at  this  point,  as 
headquarters,  he  may  make  a  pleasant 
journey  down  Lake  Sandford  near  by,  on 
one  side,  and  upon  Lake  Henderson  on  the 
other  hand.  In  one  v/ater  he  ought  to 
troll  for  pickerel,  and  in  the  other  cast 
his  fly  for  trout ;  and  upon  both  enjoy 
the  noble  glinapses  of  the  famous  moun- 
tain-peaks of  the  Adirondack  group,  the 
cliffs  of  the  Great  Indian  Pass,  of  Mount 
(Jolden,  MoJniyre,  Eclio  Mountain,  and 
other  bold  scenes.  It  will  be  a  day's 
jaunt  for  him  afterward  to  explore  the 
wild  gorge  of  the  Indian  Pass,  five  miles 


distant ;  another  day's  work  to  visit  the 
d;irk  and  weird  waters  of  Avahinche 
Lake;  and  yet  anotlier  to  reach  the 
Preston  Ponds,  five  miles  in  a  different 
direction.  He  will  find,  indeed,  occupa- 
tion enough  for  many  da3^s,  in  exploring 
these  and  many  other  points,  which  we 
cannot  now  catalogue.  In  any  event  he 
must  have  two  days  to  do  the  tramp,  par 
excellence,  of  the  Adirondacks,  to  vi-:it 
the  summit  of  Tahawus,  or  Mount  Marcy, 
the  monarch  of  the  region.  Tahawus  is 
12  miles  away,  and  the  ascent  is  extremely 
toilsome.  The  Adirondacks  (named  after 
the  Indian  nation  which  once  inhabited 
these  fastnesses)  lie  chiefly  in  the  county 
of  Essex,  though  they  extend  outside  the 
limits  of  that  countv.  Mount  Marcy,  or 
Tahawus,  "  the  Cloud  Splitter,"  is  5,467 
feet  high.  Mount  McLvtyre  has  an  ele- 
vation almost  as  great.  The  Dial  Moun- 
tain, McMartin,  and  Colden  are  also  very 
lofty  peaks,  impressively  seen  from  the 
distance,  and  inexhaustible  in  the  attrac- 
tions v/hich  their  ravines  and  waterfalls 
present.  Blue  Mountain,  Dix's  Peak, 
Nippletop,  Cove  Hill,  Moor  Mountain, 
White  Face,  and  other  grand  peaks  be- 
long to  the  neighboring  range  called  the 
Keene  Mountains.  White  Face  is  the 
most  northern,  and,  except  Mount  Marcy, 
the  loftiest  of  the  wilderness  crests. 

S^aice  l^leas  aiat. — To  reach 
Lake  Pleasant  and  the  adjoining  waters 
of  Round,  Piseco,  and  Louis  Lake — a 
favorite  and  enchanting  summer  resort 
and  sporting-ground — take  the  Central 
Railway  from  Albany,  83  miles  to  Am- 
sterdam, thence  by  stage  or  carriage  to 
Holmes''s  Hotel,  on  Lake  Pleasant.  The 
ride  from  Amsterdam  is  about  30  miles, 
The  stage  stops  over  night  at  a  village, 
en  route.  Mr.  Holmes's  house  is  an  ex- 
cellent place,  with  no  absurd  luxuries,  but 
with  every  comfort  for  which  the  true 
sportsman  can  wish.  It  is  a  delightful 
summer  home  for  the  student,  and  may 
be  visited  very  satisfiictorily  by  ladies. 
The  wild  lands  and  waters  here  are  a  part 
of  the  lake  region  of  Northern  New  York, 
of  which  we  have  already  seen  something 
on  the  Saranacs,  and  among  the  Adiron- 
dacks. The  Saranac  region  is  connect- 
ed with  Lake  Pleasant  by  intermediate 
waters  and  portages.  The  deer  and  other 
game  are  abundant  here  in  the  forests,  and 

65 


Routes.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[Routes. 


fine  trout  may  be  taken  in  all  the  brooks 
and  lakes.  Lake  Tleasant  and  its  pict- 
uresque surroundings  lie  in  Hamilton 
County. 

The  Northern  Wilderness  of  Nev>' 
York  is  similar  in  its  attractions  to  the 
wilderness  in  the  upper  part  of  the  State 
of  Maine.  The  following  synopsis  of 
routes  to  the  different  parts  of  the 
Wilderness,  gleaned  mainly  from  Alfred  13. 
Street's  excellent  work,  "Woods  and 
Waters,"  will  be  found  useful  to  the  trav- 
eller in  that  region : 


Some  of  tlae  Principal 
IRoiitos  into  tUe  r^ortlaerii 
^Vildersiess  IVom  Eastern, 
Soiatliern,  and  ^Vestern 
j\c^v  York. 

I.— INTO  THE  CHATEAUGAY  WOODS. 

1st.  From  Plattsburg  to  Dannemora 
State  Prison,  and  Chazy  Lake,  25  or  30 
miles. 

2d.  From  Rouse's  Point  to  Chateaugay 
Four  Corners  and  Chateaugay  Lakes. 

IL— INTO  THE  SAEANAC  EEGION. 

3d.  By  steamboat  to  Port  Kent  (or 
steamboat  or  railroad  to  Burlington,  op- 
posite), on  Lake  Champlain.  Thence  by 
post-coach  to  Keeseville  (Essex  County), 
four  miles.  From  Keeseville,  16  miles, 
to  UaJi-cr^s  Saranac  Lake  House,  two 
miles  short  of  the  Lower  Saranac  Lake ; 
or  to  Martlti's,  on  the  banks  of  the  Lower 
Saranac ;  or  to  Bartlctfs,  between  Round 
Lake  and  Upper  Saranac  Lake,  13  miles 
from  Martin's.  The  Keeseville  road  is  a 
good  travelling  road,  ])lankod  from  Keese- 
ville to  Franklin  Falls,  30  miles  from 
Keeseville. 

At  the  village  of  An  Sable  Forks,  12 
miles  iVom  Keeseville,  the  visitor  can 
turn  off  into  a  road  through  the  village 
of  Jay,  intersecting  the  Elizabcthlown 
road,  al)Out  12  miles  from  I>aker's.  This 
road  leads  tlirough  the  famous  Mlillc 
Face  or  Wilmington  noteh. 

4th.  By   slcanihoat    to    Westport,    on 

Lake  Cliauii)]ain.     Tlience  to  Ehzabeth- 

town,  and  thence  to  Baker's  or  Bartlett's, 

or  to  Martin's.     This  route  is  about  the 

66 


same   distance   as   the  Keeseville  route, 
but  the  road  is  by  no  means  so  good. 

Ill  —INTO  THE  ADIRONDACK,  EACKET 
AND  HUDSON  EiVEE  EEGIONS. 

5th.  From  Crown  Point,  on  Lake 
Champlain,  to  RooVs,  about  20  miles. 
From  Root's  to  the  Adirondack  Lower 
Works,  20  miles ;  thence  to  Long  Lake, 
20  miles.  A  stage  runs  from  Root's  to 
Long  Lake  usually  once  a  week^  during 
the  summer.  From  the  Lower  Works  to 
Adirondack  village  or  Upper  Works,  by 
water  (through  Lake  Sandford),  10  or  12 
miles ;  bv  road,  same.  From  the  Upper 
Works  to  Mount  Tahawus  (Mount  Marcy), 
four  miles,  and  three  miles  to  top.  From 
the  Upper  Works  to  the  famous  Indian 
Pasfi  (the  most  majestic  natural  wonder, 
next  to  Niagara,  in  the  State),  four  miles. 
From  the  Indian  Pass  to  Scoifs,  on  the 
Elizabethtown  road  (through  the  woods, 
with  scarcely  a  path),  seven  miles ;  thence 
to  Baker's  (over  a  road),  14  miles. 

6th.  From  Glenn's  Falls  to  Jioofs,  over 
a  good  road,  30  miles,  viz. :  From  Glenn's 
Falls  to  Lake  George,  nine  miles  ;  1  hence 
to  Warreneburg,  six  miles ;  thence  to 
Chester,  eight  or  ten  miles  ;  thence  to 
Pottersville^  six  or  eight  miles  ;  thence  to 
Root's,  and  thence  to  Long  Lake,  or  the 
Lower  or  the  Upper  Works;  or  from 
Pottersville  to  the  Boras  River,  15  miles. 
Tth.  From  Cai-thage,  in  Jeflerson 
County  (by  way  of  the  Beach  Road),  to 
Long  'Lake,  40  or  50  miles  ;  thence  to 
Pendleton,  10  miles  ;  thence  to  Hudson 
River  Bridge,  about  five  miles;  thence  to 
the  Lower  Works,  about  five  miles.  Can 
drive  the  whole  distance  from  Carthage 
to  the  Lower  Works. 

8th.  From  Fort  Edward  to  Glenn's 
Falls  and  Lake  George ;  thence  to  Johns- 
burg  ;  thence  to  North  Creek ;  thence 
to  Eagle  Lake  or  Tallow  Lake  (the  mid- 
dle of  the  three  Blue  Mountain  Lakes). 
From  North  Creek  to  Eagle  Lake,  20 
miles. 

IHh.  By  road  from  Saratoga  Springs  to 
Lakes  Pleasant  and  Pisco. 

IV.— INTO    THE    JOHN  BEOWN  TEACT 
EEGION. 

10th.  From  Uticaby  railroad  to  Boone- 
ville ;  thence  to  Lyonsdale  and  Port  Ley- 


Trv;nton  Falls.] 


NEW  YORK. 


[Trenton  Falls. 


,  seven  miles  by  stage-road ;  thence  to 

Jl'  .  con   Abby's  Place,  5.V  miles,  over  a 

go  ■dread  ;  thence  to  Arnold's  (over  rather 

a  poor  road,  although  passable  by  wagon), 

ailes. 

th.  From  Utica  by  railroad  to  Boonc- 

'     ;  thence  to  Booth's  mills,  11  miles, 

a  good  wagon-road ;   thence  to  Ar- 

DOiu  s  by  pack-horses  (sent  by  Arnold  to 

T-     h's  mills),  14 j  miles,  over  a  rather 

1  road. 

r,h.  From  Utica  by  railroad  to  Alder 
Kj-  i ;  thence  by  road  to  the  Reservoir 
T.:        ^. 

h.  From  the  village  of  Prospect 
(Oiiiida  County,  reached  by  railroad), 
th;  gh  Herkimer  County,  to  Morehouse, 
in     ,  milton  County. 

I  Uh.  From  Ogdensburg  to   Potsdam, 

on  rlie  Racket  River,  by  Ogdensburg  and 

?"'/■'•    Champlain    Railroad;   thence   to 

iM  a  by  stage,  10  miles  ;  thence  to  the 

t  of  the  Little  Bog  at  McE wen's,  on 

"aeket  River,  12   miles,  by  private 

•   yance,  over  a  good  road ;  thence  by 

>at  \\  miles,  to  Bog  Falls ;    thence  a 

short  )ortageon  east  side  of  river;  thence 

to  Ilairis's  place,  4^  miles,  opposite  the 

mouth  of  the  Jordan  River;  thence  '^\ 

mils   by  wagon-road    to   John  Ferry's; 

thence  three  miles  farther  on,  same  i-oad, 

ta   foot    of    Moose-Head    Still    Water; 

thence   through    the    latter,    six   miles; 

then      nine  miles  to  Racket  Pond  ;  and 

thc'ci    five  miles  to  Big  Tupper's  Lake. 


MOUTE   VIII, 

JfU'.y    YOEK  TO   TRENTON  FALLS,  t'ia 
UTICA,  ETC. 

H'rf^Mtoia  Falls  is  the  place,  above 
all  others,  where  it  is  a  luxury  to  stay — 
which  one  oftenest  revisits,  which  one 
most  commends  to  strangers  to  be  sure 
to  See.  "  In  the  long  corridor  of  travel 
betwM-ri  New  York  and  Niagara,  Tren- 
ton,'' siys  Mr.  Willis,  "  is  a  sort  of  alcove 
aside — a  side-scene  out  of  earshot  of  the 
crowd — a  recess  in  a  window,  wdiither 
you  dra^  a  friend  by  the  button  for  the 
sake  of  chit-chat  at  ease."  Ti'enton  Falls 
is  rather  a  misnomer,  for  the  wonder  of 
nature  Avhich  beai-s  the  name  is  a  tre- 
mendous torrent,  whose  bed,  for  several 
miles, ),-:  sunk  fathoms  deep  into  the  earth 


— a  roaring  and  dashing  stream,  so  far 
below  the  surface  of  the  forest,  in  which 
it  is  lost,  that  you  would  think,  as  you 
come  suddenly  upon  the  edge  of  tliis  long 
precipice,  that  it  was  a  river  in  some  in- 
ner woi-ld  (coiled  within  ours,  as  we  in 
the  outer  circle  of  the  firmament),  and 
laid  open  by  some  Titanic  throe  that  had 
cracked  clear  asunder  the  crust  of  this 
"  shallow  earth."  The  idea  is  rather  as- 
sisted if  you  happen  to  see  below  you,  on 
its  abysmal  shore,  a  party  of  adventurous 
travellers  ;  for  at  that  vast  depth,  and  in 
contrast  Avith  the  gigantic  trees  and  rocks, 
the  same  number  of  well-shaped  pismires, 
dressed  in  the  last  fashion,  and  philander- 
ing upon  your  parlor  floor,  would  be  about 
of  their  apparent  size  and  distinctness. 

Trenton  Falls  are  upon  the  West 
Canada  Creek,  a  branch  of  the  Mohawk, 
17  miles  from  Utica  (see  Utica).  The 
descent  of  the  stream,  312  feet  in  a 
distance  of  two  miles,  is  by  a  series  of 
half  a  dozen  cataracts,  of  wonderful  va- 
riety and  beauty.  Every  facility  of  path 
and  stairway  and  guide,  for  the  tour  of 
the  Trenton  ravine,  has  been  provided  by 
Mr.  Moore,  who  has  for  many  years  re- 
sided on  the  spot,  and  has  been  always 
its  Prospero,  and  its  favorite  host.  A 
walk  of  a  few  rods  through  the  v/oods 
brings  the  visitor  to  the  brink  of  the  pre- 
cipice, descended  by  secure  stairways  for 
some  hundred  feet.  The  landing  is  a 
broad  pavement,  level  with  the  water's 
edge,  often,  in  times  of  freshet,  the  bed  of 
foaming  floods.  Here  is  commanded  a 
line  view  of  the  outlet  of  the  chasm,  45 
rods  below,  and  also  of  the  first  cascade, 
37  rods  up  the  stream.  The  parapet  of 
the  First  Fall,  visible  from  the  foot  of  the 
stairs,  is,  in  dry  times,  a  naked  perpen- 
dicular rock,  33  feet  high,  apparently  ex- 
tending quite  across  the  chasm,  the  water 
retiring  to  the  left,  and  being  hid  from  the 
eye  by  intervening  prominences.  But  in 
freshets,  or  after  rain,  it  foams  over,  from 
one  side  of  the  gorge  to  the  other,  in 
a  broad  amber  sheet.  A  pathway  to  this 
fall  has  been  blasted  at  a  considerable 
cost,  under  an  overhanging  rock  and 
around  an  extensive  projection,  directly 
beneath  which  rages  and  roars  a  most 
violent  rapid.  The  passage,  though  at 
first  of  dangerous  aspect,  is  made  secure 
bv  chains  well  riveted  to  the  rock  wall. 

67 


Tkexton  Falls.] 


KEW   YORK. 


[Lebanon  Springs. 


Passina;  to  the  left,  vet  a  few  rods 
above,  we  come  to  Shcrmati's  IhiU^ 
35  feet  hiali,  so  named  in  memory  of 
the  Kev.  Mr.  Sherman,  whose  account  of 
the  spot  \Ye  are  now  closely  following. 
He  vras  one  of  the  earliest  pioneers  of  the 
Trenton  beauties,  and  it  was  by  him  that 
the  first  house,  called  the  "  Rural  Resort," 
fur  the  accommodation  of  visitors,  Avas 
built.  The  fall  has  formed  an  immense 
escavation,  having  thrown  out  thousands 
of  tons  from  the  parapet  rock,  visible  at 
the  stairs,  and  is  annually  forcing  ofi'  slabs 
at  the  west  corner,  against  which  it  inces- 
santly forces  a  section  of  its  powerful 
sheet.  A  naked  mass  of  rock,  extending 
up  150  feet,  juts  frowningly  forward, 
which  is  ascended  by  natural  steps  to  a 
point  from  which  the  visitor  looks  secure- 
ly down  upon  the  rushing  waters. 

Leaving  this  rocky  shelf,  and  passing 
a  wild  rapid,  we  come  suddenly  in  sight 
of  the  High  Falls,  40  rods  beyond.  This 
cascade  has  a  perpendicular  descent  of 
109  feet,  while  the  cliffs  on  either  side  rise 
some  SO  feet  yet  higher.  The  v.hole  body 
of  water  makes  its  way  at  this  point — 
divided  by  intervening  ledges  into  sepa- 
rate cataracts,  which  fall  lirst  about  40 
feet,  then  reuniting  on  a  flat  below,  and 
veering  suddenly  around  an  inclination  of 
rocky  steps,  they  plunge  into  the  dark 
caldron  beneath.  The  Rural  Edreaf,  '20 
feet  above  the  summit  of  the  High  Falls, 
is  readily  reached  by  a  flight  of  stairs. 

Tlie  opening  of  the  chasm  now  be- 
comes considerably  enlarged,  and  a  new 
variety  of  scene  occurs.  Mill-Dam  Fall,  14 
feet  high,  lies  some  distance  beyond, 
reaching  across  the  whole  breadth  of  the 
chasm. 

Ascending  this  fall,  the  visitor  comes 
to  a  still  larger  platform  level  rock,  15 
rods  wide  at  low  water,  and  90  in  length, 
lined  on  each  side  by  cedars.  At  the  ex- 
tremity of  this  locality,  which  is  known 
as  the  AUiauibra,  a  bare  rock  50  feet  in 
heigiit  reaches  gradually  forward  from  the 
niid-distanee  ;  and,  from  its  shelving  top, 
there  descends  a  ])erpctual  rill,  which 
forms  a  natural  sliowcr-bath.  A.  wild 
cataract  fdls  the  picture  on  the  left.  Here 
the  wide  oi)ening  suddenly  contracts,  and 
a  narrow  ajicrturc  only  remains,  with  vis- 
tas of  winding  moimtain,  cliff,  and  crag. 
Near  by  ii;  a  dark  basin,  w  here  the  waters 
68 


rest  from  the  turmoil  of  the  wild  cascade 
above.  In  this  vicinage  is  an  amphi- 
tlicatre  of  seemingly  impossible  access, 
replete  with  ever-new  surprises  and  de- 
lights. Yet  beyond  is  the  Roclij  Heart, 
the  point  at  which  the  traverse  of  the 
ravine  usually  ends,  though  despite  the 
difficulties  and  dangers  of  the  way,  even 
ladies  frequently  penetrate  beyond  as  far 
as  the  falls  at  Looris  BrvJrje,  the  terminus 
of  the  gorge. 

The  scene  at  Trenton  varies  much,  ac- 
cording as  drought  or  freshet  dries  or  fills 
tlie  stream,  and  passages  are  easy  enough 
at  one  time,  which  are  utterly  impracti- 
cable at  others.  It  is  difiicult  to  say  when 
the  glen  is  the  most  beautiful,  whether 
v.ith  much  or  with  little  water. 

ljel>siiaoi&  Spx*ing;<$  and 
^lisilier  Villag-c. — Hotels,  Co- 
luralia  Hall. 

Route. — Same  as  Route  L  (See  Hud- 
son.) 

There  are  ample  accommodations  for 
the  traveller  at  this  favorite  watering- 
place,  in  a  well-appointed  hotel,  a  water- 
cure  establishment,  etc.,  pleasantly 
perched  on  a  hill-slope,  ovcrlookng  a 
beautiful  valley.  There  are  pleasant 
drives  all  around,  over  good  roads,  to 
happy  villages,  smiling  lakelets,  and  in- 
viting spots  of  many  characters.  Trout, 
too,  may  be  taken  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. The  waters  of  the  Spring  flow 
from  a  cavity  10  feet  in  diameter,  and 
in  sufiieient  volume  to  work  a  mill.  Its 
temperature  is  72'.  It  is  soft,  and  pleas- 
antly suited  for  bathing  uses,  is  quite 
tasteless  and  inodorous.  For  cutaneous 
affections,  rheumatism,  nervous  debility, 
liver  comi)laint,  etc.,  it  is  an  admirable 
remedial  a^ent. 

The  village  of  New  Lebanon,  or  the 
celebrated  Shaker  settlement,  is  two 
miles  from  the  Springs,  and  is  a  point  of 
great  interest  to  the  visitors  there,  espe- 
cially on  Sunday,  when  their  singular 
forms  of  worship  may  be  witnessed.  (See 
Hudson.) 

^lisiron  J*»i>i'iisp;s. —  Hotels. — 
The  I'avUioii  is  a  huge  and  well-ap- 
pointed establishment.  The  Eldridge  is 
also  a  good  house. 

Route. — From  Albany,  by  the  Central 
Railroad,  as  far  as  Palatine  Bridge,  55 
miles  ;  thence  by  stage,  10  miles,  over  a 


.  TMBixV  Springs.] 


NEW   YORK. 


[Avon  Springs. 


plank  road.  The  waters  are  pure  and  clear, 
and  although  they  flow  for  one-fourth  of 
a  mile  from  thch'  source  with  other  cur- 
rert-',  they  yet  preserve  their  own   dis- 
tinct character.     The  fall  here  is  of  sufli- 
;  force  and  volume  to  turn  a  mill.    It 
lies   over   a  ledge   of  perpendicular 
,4,   with  a  descent  of  some  65  feet. 
Tiie   magnesia   and   the  sulphur  springs 
mi  tell  resemble  the   White   Sulphur   of 
'''  •  inia. 

terry  Vallei/  is  in  the  vicinity  of 
Sharm  Springs,  accessible  also  from  Fala- 
tin'  'bridge,  and  from  Canajoharie,  on  the 
En  Canal,  from  which  it  lies  about  26 
mi'      in  a  southwest  direction. 

1  '>e(jfO  Lake  and  Gooperstown,  famous 
as  1  e'home  of  the  late  Fenimore  Cooper, 
th(   '  ovelist,  are  near  by. 

'.  » 1  ai  nil  I>  i  a  ^pi'iitg-s. — (For 
route,  see  Hudson.) 

The  Columbia  Springs  have  of  late 
years  grown  into  popular  favor.  They 
are  easily  accessible,  lying  only  live 
mil.v^  from  the  City  of  Hudson.  They  are 
W'thi  I  the  town  of  Stockport,  Columbia 
<  •:' y,  New  York.  The  site  and  grounds 
hly  varied  and  picturesque,  jump- 


gi 


ing  delightfully  from  hill  to  dale,  fi-ora 
forest  glen  to  grassy  lawn.  In  the  imme- 
diate neighborhood,  moreover,  there  flows 
a  pleasant  lake,  oflering  all  the  country 
charms  of  boating  and  fishing.  The  hotel 
here,  under  the  management  of  Mr.  C,  B. 
Nasli,  is  largo  and  well  appointed. 

Avoii.  ??lpE*iMg'*», — The  village  of 
Avon  is  20  miles  distant  from  Rochester, 
on  the  Genesee  River.  A  railway  con- 
nects it  v/ith  Geneseo,  Cuylerville,  and 
Mount  Morris.  The  springs  contain  sul- 
phur and  salt,  and  are  efficacious  in  cases 
of  rheumatism  and  indigestion.  Good 
hotel  accommodation. 

Miclalicld.  ^pi'lsag-s.  —  Hotel, 
Spring  House. 

Richfield  Springs  are  in  the  town  of 
Richfield,  Otsego  County,  southeast  of 
Utica,  near  the  head  of  Cauaderaga,  one  of 
the  numerous  lakes  of  this  part  of  New 
York.  Olscgo  Lake  is  six  miles  distant ; 
and  another  six  miles  will  take  the  trav- 
eller to  Cooperstown.  Cherry  Valley, 
Springfield^  and  other  villages  are  near  by. 

Route  from  New  York  and  Albany,  via 
Central  Railway  to  He'rkimer,  81  miles, 
and  thence  by  stage. 

69 


Connecticut.] 


CONXECTICUT. 


[Route  I. 


con:necticut. 


The  scenery  of  Connecticut  is  deliglit- 
fuUy  varied  by  the  passage  of  the  Con- 
necticut, the  Housatonic,  and  other  pict- 
uresjue  rivers  ;  and  of  several  low  hill 
ranges.  Spurs  of  the  Green  Mountains 
rise  here  and  there,  in  isolated  groups  or 
points  through  the  western  portions  of 
the  State.  The  Talcot,  or  Greenv.'ood's, 
Kanu;e  extends  from  the  northern  boun- 
dary  almost  to  New  Haven.  Between 
this  chain  and  that  in  the  extreme  west, 
lies  another  ridge,  with  yet  two  others  on 
the  eastward — the  Middletown  Moun- 
tains, and  the  line  across  the  Connec- 
ticut, which  is  a  continuation,  most  prob- 
ably, of  the  White  Hills  of  New  Hamp- 
shire. Lying  between  those  mountain 
ranges  are  valleys  of  great  luxuriance  and 
beauty.  The  valley  of  the  Connecticut, 
now  traversed  by  rail  through  a  greater 
part  of  its  length,  affords  some  of  the  most 
picturesque  scenery  in  New  England. 
Tlie  lakes  among  the  mountains  of  the 
northwestern  corner  of  the  State  are  ex- 
tremely attractive.  The  Long  Island 
Sound,  which  waters  the  entire  coast  of 
Connecticut,  is  140  miles  long  and  24 
wide,  and  alfords  some  fine  scenery.  (See 
Long  Island.)  If  we  except  a  small 
trading-house  built  by  the  Dutch  at  Hart- 
ford, in  IGol,  the  first  colony  planted  in 
Coimeoticut  was  the  settlement  of  some 
of  the  Massachusetts  emigrants  at  Wind- 
sor. Soon  afterward  Hartford  fell  into 
the  possession  of  tlie  Englisli  colonists. 
Wetliersfield  was  next  occupied,  in  IGJUi, 
and  New  Haven  in  1G38.  The  State  had 
its  sliare  of  ImUan  troubles  in  its  earlier 
history,  and  of  cndunmcc,  later,  in  the 
days  of  the  Kevolution.  Hartford  and 
New  Haven  are  the  capitals,  and  chief 
cities  of  the  State.  NorwaUc,  13ridgei)ort, 
and  New  London  Lave  each  a  poi)ula- 
70 


tion  of  about  12,000.     The  population  of 
the  State  (1860)  was  400,146. 

IlouTES. — There  are  five  routes  by 
steamboat  and  railway  from  New  York 
through  poi'tions  of  Connecticut  to  Boston, 
affording  daily  communication  throughout 
the  year.     (See  Boston  and  New  York.) 


BOUTE  I. 

XEW  YORK    TO  XEW  HA  TEX,    HABT- 
FORD,  SPRINGFIELD,  ETC. 

{Via  Xeio  York  and  New  Haven,  and  Xeto 
Haven,  Hart/ord,  and  ST>rinQfield  liail- 
v:ai/s.) 

Stations. — Twenty-seventh  Street  and 
Fourth  Avenue  ;  Forty-second  Street ; 
Harlem,  6  miles  ;  W^illiams  Bridge,  12  ; 
Mount  Vernon,  17;  New  Rochelle,  18; 
Mamaroneck,  22 ;  Rye,  25 ;  Port  Chester, 
27;  Greenwich,  ol ;  Stamford,  37;  Nor- 
walk,  45  ;  Westport,  Southport,  62  ;  Fair- 
field, Bridgeport,  59  ;  Stratford,  62  ;  Nau- 
gatuck  Railroad  Junction,  Miltbrd,  West 
Haven,  New  Haven,  76;  Meriden,  94; 
Hartford,  112;  Springfield,  138. 

Over  this  fine  road  from  New  York 
to  Springfield  there  is  laid  a  double 
track,  and  cxj^ress  trains  stop  only  at 
the  principal  stations,  running  through 
to  Springfield,  without  change,  in  five 
hours.  (For  description  of  ])oints  on  this 
line  between  New  York  and  Williams 
Bridge,  see  New  York  and  Vicinity, 
AND  New  Yoric  and  Hari.km  IvAilway.) 

j^cw  ISoc'laclli",  in  Westchester 
County,  N.  Y.,  is  pleasantly  situated  on 
the  Long  Island  Sound.  It  was  settled 
by  Huguenots  from  Rochelle,  in  France. 
It  was  the  residence  of  Thomas  Paine, 
who  died  here,  June  8,  1809.     A  mouu- 


PORT.] 


CONNECTICUT. 


[New  Haven. 


iiH  ;     to   his   memory  still   stands   near 
w)v  !•(•  he  was  first  buried. 

"  ~    ft   Cliestei*,  situated   on   By- 
......    .iver,  in  the  townsliip  of  Kye,  Wcst- 

clicster  County,  is  the  last  point  passed 
oil  ilii-.  line  before  entering  Connecticut. 

•^  ■!  reeii^vicSa,  three  miles  beyond 
To  Chester,  commands  a  tine  view  of 
the  Sound  and  Long  Island.  It  has  two 
lar2,e  (^hurches,  and  several  handsome  resi- 
deii;  f.  Greenwich  is  famous  as  the 
scerv,  of  "Putnam's  breakneck  ride" 
dov  b  the  rocks.  The  spot  known  as 
"Put  ^  Hill"  can  be  seen  from  the  train 
to  tin-  east  of  the  depot. 

N  iimlorcl  (SY  miles),  in  Fairfield 
County,  at  the  mouth  of  Mill  River, 
has  of  late  years  been  much  resorted  to 
bj  vi  iters  during  the  summer  months. 
It  ha  four  pleasant  parks  and  numerous 
drive,-,  eight  church  edifices,  and  a  popu- 
lario'?  of  4,000. 

?\i  .r-i-^valli:. — Hotel,  Alliss  House. 

X'./i'walk  (45  miles)  is  a  pleasant  vil- 
laae,  'ipon  Norwalk  River.  It  was  burnt 
by  tl.  3  British,  July  11,  iV^g.  The  Mr- 
vjalk  and  Danhury  Railroad^  24  miles, 
come-  in  at  this  point.  The  quiet  rural 
beauties  of  Norwalk,  and  its  proximity 
to  Ni  w  York,  make  it  one  of  the  most 
dcrii  ble  as  well  as  available  summer  re- 
80 ii-  of  Connecticut.  The  oyster  busiue&s 
iri  ixionsively  carried  on  here,  as  is  also 
the  1 .  lanufacture  of  hats.  North  of  the 
1S<"  i'lport  Station  is  the  Pequot  Swamp, 
wliei  •  that  once  powerful  tribe  of  Indians 
rnadv'  their  last  stand  (1637)  against  Con- 
•  r  '('ut  and  Massachusetts  troops.  Fair- 
ji''"'  farther  on  our  journey,  was  burnt 
(-^  '  '1,  1119)  by  Governor  Tryon,  who 
gi' '  '  the  previous  day  from  New  Haven. 
•i4lge|>oi*t. — Hotel,  the  Stanley 

Ji;  dgeport,  59  miles  from  New  York, 
1.8  tlu'  southern  terminus  of  theHousatonic 
Rali\  ay.  This  route  lies  through  the 
mo  picturesque  portions  of  Connecticut 
aiK'  [assachusetts — the  western  ormouu- 
tai-'  regions.  (See  Housatonic  Valley.) 
Th'  NTaugatuck  Railway  extends  hence, 
via  '  faterbury  (62  miles),  to  Winsted. 
StCi^iers  ply  between  New  York  and 
Bii(  eport.  The  town  is  upon  an  arm 
ot  ti'e  Long  Island  Sound,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Pequannock  River.  A  terrace 
height   of   50  feet,    occupied    by  beau- 


tiful private  mansions  and  cottages,  com- 
mands a  charming  view  of  the  town  and 
the  Sound.  Washlvgton  and  Scanidc  ParH 
are  fine  public  grounds.  The  town  is 
celebrated  for  its  manufactures  of  sewing- 
machines  and  fire-arms.  Among  the  most 
extensive  establishments  are  those  of  the 
Wheeler  &  Wilson  and  Howe  Sewing- 
Maehine  Companies,  and  the  New  Haven 
Arms  Company.  In  Bridgeport  was  born 
the  famous  dwarf,  Charles  S.  Stratton, 
alias  "  Tom  Thumb."  Lindencroft,  the 
homestead  of  P.  T.  Barnum,  the  famous 
showman,  is  a  short  distance  west  of  the 
town.    Population,  18,000. 

Milford,  eight  miles  north  of  Bridge- 
port, presents  a  picturesque  appearance. 
The  streets  are  lined  with  stately  elms. 
In  the  cemetery  near  the  railway  east  of 
the  depot  is  a  monument  30  feet  high, 
erected  over  the  remains  of  the  American 
soldiers  brought  here  from  New  York, 
January,  \111. 

West  and  East  IRodcs  are  seen  on  ap- 
proaching New  Haven  from  Bridgeport. 
On  the  summit  of  West  Rock  is  the 
Judges'  Cave,  where  Gofife  and  Whalley, 
two  of  the  judges  who  condemned  King 
Charles  I.,  concealed  themselves.  From 
the  summit  o^  East  Rock,  400  feet  high,  a 
wide  view  of  New  Haven  and  the  neigh- 
boring Sound  is  had. 

Ne^T  ISaveia. — Hotels  :  the  New 
Haven,  on  Chapel  Street,  overlooking  the 
Park,  and  the  Tontine,  corner  of  Church 
and  Court  Streets,  are  both  good  houses. 

New  Haven,  76  miles  from  New  York, 
is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  interest- 
ing places  in  New  England.  It  is  known 
as  the  "  Elm  City,"  from  the  extraordinary 
number  of  beautiful  trees  of  this  species 
by  which  the  streets  are  so  gratefully 
shaded  and  so  charmingly  embellished. 
It  is  beautifully  situated  on  an  extensive 
plain  at  the  head  of  the  bay  or  harbor, 
which  extends  from  the  Sound  a  distance 
of  four  miles.  North  of  the  city  are 
highlands  overlooking  it  and  the  Sound, 
prominent  among  which  are  East  r.nd 
West  Rocks.  It  was  settled  (1G3S)  by 
an  English  Company  from  London,  and 
was  originally  laid  out  in  a  plot  half  a 
mile  square.  There  are  upward  of  30 
church  edifices  in  the  city,  and  the  popu- 
lation exceeds  40,000,  and  is  rapidly  in- 
creasing.    The  chief  objects  of  interest — 

■      11 


New  Haten.] 


CONNECTICUT. 


[Uartford. 


and  these  no  visitor  should  fail  to  see — 
are  Yale  College  hinhlbigs.  and  the  Pvh- 
lic  Square,  or  "  Green,"  as  it  is  familiarly 
called.  The  scjuare  is  easily  reached  by 
Chapel  Street,  one  of  the  main  thorough- 
fares of  the  city.  It  contains  IG  acres,  and 
is  a  most  attractive  spot.  The  view  in 
Tem'ple  Street,  which  extends  across  the 
square  north  and  south,  is  especially  stri- 
king. West  of  Temple  Street  are  Trinitii, 
North,  and  Centre  Clnirehes,  and  still 
farther  west,  the  State  House.  The  base- 
ment of  the  latter  building  is  of  marble 
from  the  Sing  Sing  quarries,  New  York. 
New  Haven  divides  the  honors  of  the 
capital  with  Hartford,  the  sessions  of  the 
State  Legislature  being  held  alternately 
at  either  place.  The  College  luildings, 
fourteen  in  number,  fronting  the  square 
on  the  west,  will  next  attract  attention. 
Tliis  famous  college,  founded  in  I'ZOO, 
and  removed  to  New  Haven  in  1716,  is 
named  after  citizen  Elihu  Yale,  afterward 
governor  of  Fort  George,  in  the  East  In- 
dies. The  Fine-Art  BvikUng,  recently 
constructed  by  Augustus  \\.  Street,  and 
by  him  presented  to  the  city,  should  be 
visited.  It  is  built  of  brown  stone,  and 
cost  $150,000.  The  Trvmbnll  Geillery 
contains  the  original  pictures  by  Colonel 
John  Trumbull,  of  which  copies  are  in 
the  rotunda  of  the  Capitol  at  Washing- 
ton. Alumni  Hall,  built  of  Tortland 
freestone,  is  also  a  fine  edifice. 

The  City  Hall,  fronting  the  east  side 
of  the  square  on  Church  Street,  is  an  im- 
posing Gothic  edifice,  of  Portland  and 
Nova  Scotia  stone.  It  was  completed  in 
1802,  from  designs  by  Austin,  at  a  cost 
of  8100,000.  The  tower,  84  feet  high, 
is  surmounted  by  a  spire  of  GO  feet,  in 
which  is  an  alarm-bell  and  an  obser- 
vatory. In  the  Grove  Street  Cemetery  are 
the  graves  of  Roger  Sherman,  Koah 
AV'ebster,  Pieirepont  Edwards,  James  Hill- 
house,  Timothy  i'itkin,  and  Eli  Whitney. 
Tjivg  Wliarf,  which  extends  into  the  har- 
bor nearly  '1,000  feet,  is  said  to  be  the 
longest  wharf  in  the  country. 

The  vicinity  of  New  Haven  abounds  in 
attractive  diives  and  rides.  Savin  Rod:, 
four  miles  soutliwest,  is  reached  by  rail 
to  West  Haven  de]iot,  and  thence  by 
stage,  or  by  stage  direct  from  New  Haven. 
The  b(Mch  aflbnls  good  bathing.  The 
Hock  House  has  am])le  acconimodatiou  for 
72 


visitors.  The  Breidford  Point  House^ 
seven  miles  east  of  the  city,  is  also  a 
pleasant  resort.  Steamboats  daily  be- 
tween New  Haven  and  New  York. 

Wallingford,  12  miles  north  of  New 
Haven,  is  a  place  of  extensive  manu- 
factures. A  short  distance  beyond  this 
station  is  "  Mount  Tom,"  upon  the  slope 
of  which  is  seen  the  establishment  of  the 
Wedlivgford  Socicfg.  The  domain  em- 
braces 230  acres,  of  which  30  are  laid  out 
in  orchards  and  vineyards.  The  Hanging 
Hills,  said  to  be  the  most  elevated  points 
in  the  State,  will  attract  the  tourist's  no- 
tice as  he  nears  Meriden. 

MeriiloiJ,  18  miles  from  New  Haven, 
is  an  important  raanufiicturing  place,  with 
a  population  of  10,000.  It  is  divided 
into  Meriden  and  West  Meriden.  The 
works  of  the  Meriden  Britannia  Manufac- 
turing Company,  near  the  railway  station, 
are  4GG  feet  in  length  and  three  stories 
high,  and  give  employment  to  400  opera- 
tives. The  Town  Hall  and  State  Peform 
School  are  among  the  most  prominent 
buildings.  Jloiait  Lamentation  is  seen  to 
the  eastward,  on  leaving  the  station. 

New  Britain  is  reached  by  a  branch 
road  1\  miles  northwest  from  Berlin 
Junction.  It  is  widely  known  for  its 
manufactures  of  locks,  etc.  It  has  one 
of  the  largest  fountains  in  the  United 
States. 

3IiddIctown,  a  summer  resort  on  the 
Connecticut  River,  is  famous  for  its 
quarries.  It  is  10  miles  southeast  by  rail 
from  Berlin,  and  15  miles  from  Hartford. 
The  ]\IcDo7tovgh  is  the  leading  hotel. 

laartlbi'd. — Hotels,  the  Align 
House  and  United  States. 

Hartford,  a  semi-caijital  of  Connecticut, 
is  36  miles  from  New  Haven,  112 
fiom  New  York,  and  124  from  Boston. 
It  is  upon  the  right  bank  of  the  Connec- 
ticut Kiver,  navigable  to  this  point  by 
sloops  and  small  steamboats,  50  miles  up 
i'rom  Long  Island  Soimd.  The  first  set^ 
tlement  here  was  made  by  the  Dutch 
(1G3;{),  at  the  junction  of  Park  Biver  with 
the  Connecticut.  The  place  still  goes  by 
the  name  of  "Dutch  Point."  The  first 
ICnglish  settlement  was  made  in  1635. 
]\[ain  Street,  two  miles  long,  is  a  hand- 
some promenade.  Among  the  prominent 
literary  and  educational  institutions  of 
Ilaitlord  are   Trinity  College,  the   Wads- 


Hartfokd.] 


CONNECTICUT. 


[Route  IL 


worth  Atlienceum,  erected  by  private  sub- 
scription at  a  cost  of  $52,000,  and  the 
Connctimit  Historical  Sockltj.  The  Wat- 
Jcinsoii  Library,  in  the  Athcnroum  Euild- 
inp^,  contains  some  rare  books.  The 
stalnary  room  and  pidurc  f/aUery  in  this 
buildin'2;  are  worth  visiting  (fee).  The 
historical  rooms  are  open  daily  (free). 
Among  its  chief  benevolent  establish- 
ments, for  which  Hartford  is  alike  con- 
spicuous, are  the  American  Asylum  fcr 
the  Deaf  and  Dumh,  incorporated  1816, 
and  the  Retreat  for  the  Insane,  opened 
in  1824.  The  Hartford  Hospital,  dedi- 
cated in  1859,  is  a  handsome  build- 
ing of  Portland  stone,  and  cost  $48,000. 
That  old  historic  relic,  the  Charter 
Oak,  held  in  so  mucli  reverence,  stood 
in  Hartford  until  1856,  when  it  was 
prostrated  by  a  violent  storm.  A  marble 
slab  in  Charter  Oak  Place  marks  the 
spot  where  it  stood.  CoWs  Fire-Arrns 
Mamfactory  is  worthy  a  visit.  It  is  in 
the  southeast  quarter  of  the  city.  It 
encloses  23  acres  of  land,  and  gives  em- 
ployment to  800  hands.  The  residence 
of  the  late  Mrs.  L.  H.  Sigourney,  the 
poetess,  stands  on  Asylum  Street,  near 
the  railway  depot.  Mrs.  Stowe  is  also 
a  resident  of  Hartford.  Population, 
35,000. 

The  vicinity  of  Hartford,  like  that  of 
its  sister  city,  New  Haven,  abounds 
in  picturesque  drives  and  walks.  Tum- 
hle-Doivn  Brooh,  eight  miles  west,  on  the 
Albany  road,  Taleott  Mountain,  M^ethers- 
field,  and  Prospect  Hill  are  among  the 
most  frequented. 

Leaving  Hartford  and  passing  V/indsor 
and  Windsor  Locks,  12  miles  beyond  the 
first-named  city,  we  shortly  reach  the  great 
iron  truss  bridge  over  the  Connecticut 
River  at  Warehouse  Point.  It  is  1,525 
feet  long  and  cost  $265,000.  The  iron 
was  supplied,  and  the  frame  of  the  bridge 
put  together  in  England.  Its  erection 
was  commenced  June,  1865,  and  com- 
pleted February,  1866.  It  has  17  spans, 
the  largest  of  which  is  I'Z'Z^  feet.  The 
manuf^Tcturing  towns  of  Evficld  and 
ThompsonvlUe,  the  former  famous  for  its 
powder,  the  latter  for  its  carpets,  are 
soon  reached,  and  then  Longmeadow. 
(For  continuation  of  the  route  northward, 
see  Boston  and  Worcesteh  Route  from 
Boston.) 

4 


MOUTE  II. 

BRIDGEPORT  TO   FITTSFTEID. 
{Via  Ilousatonic  Jiailtvay.) 

The  valley  of  the  Ilousatonic,  traversed 
by  the  Housatonic  River  and  Railroad,  ex- 
tends for  about  100  miles  northward  from 
Long  Island  Sound,  through  the  extreme 
west  of  Connecticut  and  Massachusetts, 
including  the  famous  county  of  Berkshire 
in  the  latter  State.  The  whole  region  is 
replete  with  picturesque  and  social  at- 
tractions, and  has  long  been  resorted  to  for 
summer  travel  and  residence.  It  is  a 
country  of  bold  hills,  pleasant  valleys,  and 
beautiful  streams — more  particularly  that 
portion  lymg  in  Berkshire.  Saddle  Moun- 
tain, in  the  north  part  of  this  county,  is 
the  highest  land  in  Massachusetts.  The 
natural  beauties  of  Monument  Mountain, 
also  in  Berkshire,  have  been  heightened 
by  traditionary  story,  and  by  the  verse  of 
Bryant.  Stockbridge  and  Great  Barring- 
ton — very  popular  summer  homes — are 
here. 

Stations. — Bridgeport  ;  Stepney,  10 
miles;  Botsford,  15;  Newtown,  19; 
Hawleyville,  23 ;  Brookfield,  29 ;  New 
Milford,  35  ;  Gaylordsville,  42 ;  Kent,  48  ; 
Cornwall  Bridge,  51 ;  West  Cornwall,  61  ; 
Falls  Village,  67 ;  Canaan,  73  ;  Ashlev 
Falls,  75  ;  Sheffield,  79  ;  Barrington,  85'; 
Van  Deusenville,  87 ;  Housatonic,  89  ; 
Glendale,  92 ;  Stockbridge,  93  ;  South 
Lee,  95  ;  Lee,  99  ;  Lenox  Furnace,  101 ; 
Lenox,  102  ;  Dewey's,  106  ;  Pittsfield,  ]  10. 

Routes. — From  New  York,  take  the 
New  Haven  Railroad,  59  miles,  to 
Bridgeport,  on  Long  Island  Sound, 
thence  up  the  vallc}",  on  the  Housa- 
tonic road  ;  or  take  the  Hudson  River,  or 
the  River  Railroad  route,  116  miles,  to 
the  city  of  Hudson,  and  thence  by  Hud- 
sou  and  Boston  Railroad,  34  miles,  to 
West  Stockbridge;  or  the  Harlem  Rail- 
road, to  its  intersection  with  the  Hudson 
and  Boston,  at  Chatham  Four  Corners. 
From  Albany,  by  the  Albany  and  Boston 
road,  38  miles,  to  State  line  (Housatonic 
road),  or  onward  to  Pittsfield.  From  Bos- 
ton by  Western  (Mass.)  road,  151  miles,  to 
Pittsfield. 

Falls  Villag-e,  67  miles.  The 
falls  here  which  are  the  largest  in  Con- 

73 


PlTTSFIELD.] 


CONNECTICUT. 


[Norwich. 


nccticut,  are  very  bold  and  picturesque. 
The  waters  traverse  a  ledge  of  limestone, 
and  make  a  dc^cevt  of  GO  feet. 

T'iae  Safii^!ik>u^y  ELicilaos. — The 
country  west  of  Canaan,  as  all  this  part  of 
the  State,  is  beautifully  embellished  with 
bill  and  lake  scenery.  The  Twin  Zalrs^ 
in  Salisbury  township,  arc  very  charming 
waters.     Movni  lliga  is  1,000  feet  high. 

Sliefnel«l  (79  miles)  is  a  prosperous 
village,  famous  for  its  manufactures  and 
for  its  varied  scenic  attractions. 

B  It  1*  1*  £  u  g'  t  o  II . — Hotel,  the 
Bci'lshire  House.  Great  Barrington,  with 
excellent  hotels  for  summer  travel,  is  a 
place  of  favorite  resort.  Mount  Peter^  on 
the  southern  edge,  overlooks  the  village 
pleasontly,  and  is  most  agreeably  seen 
approaching  on  the  river  road  from  the 
north. 

Tlic  TaugTcamc  ITountains,  a  range 
extending  from  tlie  Green  Hills  of  Ver- 
mont, lie  between  the  Housatonic  valley 
and  the  Hudson  River.  Ilouni  Wasli- 
iitfjion^  Momit  Iliga^  and  other  peaks, 
are  interesting  places  of  pilgrimage  and 
exploration.  Following  the  Housatonic, 
and  passing  Monument  Mowitahi,  we 
reach  Stockbridge.  Old  Stockbridge  is 
one  of  the  quietest  and  most  winsome  re- 
treats in  the  world,  lying  in  the  lap  of  a 
fertile,  hill-shcltcred  valley.  The  houses, 
which  are  all  far  apart,  and  buried  in 
dense  verdure,  stand  back  in  gardens, 
upon  either  side  of  a  broad  street  or 
road,  thickly  lined  with  noble  specimens 
of  the  evcr-al tractive  New  England  elm. 
The  Stockbridge  ILmse  is  well  kcpfr. 

Lebanon  Springs  (N.  Y.),  and  the 
Shaker  village,  are  hereabouts.  (See  New^ 
YouK.) 

!■  i  1  t  s  ii  o  I  fll , — Hotel,  BerJc- 
shire  JJovhc.  rittslicld,  Berkshire  County, 
Mass.,  no  miles  from  liridgoport,  is  a 
large  manufacturing  and  agricultural 
town,  elevated  1,100  feet  above  the  level 
of  Iho  sea.  It  is  151  miles  west  from 
Boston,  and  49  east  from  Albany.  The 
village  is  beautifully  situated,  and  con- 
tains many  elegant  puldic  edilices  and 
private  dwellings.  In  this  village  there 
is  still  standing  one  of  the  original  forc.>t 
trees— a  large  elm,  1'20  feet  high,  and  90 
feet  to  (he  lowest  limb — an  interesting 
relic  uf  the  primitive  woods,  and  justly 
esteemed  a  curiosity  by  persons  visiting 
74 


this  place.  The  town  received  its  pres- 
ent name  in  1761,  in  honor  of  William 
Pitt  (Earl  of  Chatham).  Upon  a  fine 
si^acious  square  in  the  heart  of  the  town 
are  the  principal  hotels,  the  Berhiiliire 
Medical  School,  a  popular  institution 
founded  in  1823,  and  the  First  Congre- 
gational Church,  a  Gothic  structure  of 
stone,  erected  in  1853.  The  Young 
Ladies'  Lnstilnfe  occupies  several  admi- 
rable buildings,  surrounded  by  well-era- 
bellished  grounds.  Pittsficld  is  a  large 
depot  of  manufactures,  being  extensively 
engaged  in  the  production  of  cotton  and 
woollen  goods,  machincr}-,  fire-arms,  and 
railroad  cars.  The  population  of  the 
township  is  nearly  9,000.  The  routes 
from  Pittsfield  are  to  Boston  (151  miles), 
and  Albany  (49  miles),  by  the  "Western 
(Mass.)  Railway ;  and  to  North  Adams 
(20  miles),  by  Pittsfield  and  North  Adams 
Ivailway.  the  Fittsjitld  and  North 
Adams  Boide. — Stations:  Packard's, 
Berkshire,  Cheshire,  Cheshire  Harbor, 
^laple  Grove,  and  South  Adams  to  North 
Adams. 

Adams. — The  villages  of  North  and 
South  Adams  are  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
borhood of  Saddle  Mountain.  This  noble 
peak  has  an  elevation  of  3,500  feet,  and 
is  the  highest  land  in  Massachusetts. 
There  is  a  notable  natural  bridge  upon 
Hudson's  brook  near  North  Adams.  The 
Jloosac  Tunnel  is  reached  from  here. 

"^^'iliiaBMStcwia,  near  North 
Adams,  is  the  seat  of  Williams  College, 
founded  in  1793.  This  institution  is 
well  endowed,  and  holds  high  rank 
among  the  best  educational  establish- 
ments of  the  country.  The  village  is  in 
one  of  the  most  picturesque  i^ortions  of 
lovely  Berkshire  County. 

I\oi*"^ri<*la,  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
towns  in  the  State,  is  situated  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Yantic  and  Shetucket  Rivers, 
which  here  form  the  Thames,  and  at 
the  head  of  navigation  on  that  river.  It 
is  13  miles  north  of  New  London,  the 
terminus  of  the  steamboat  route  No.  4 
(see  Boston),  from  New  York,  and  of  the 
Norwich  and  Worcester  liaihcay.  It  is 
noted  for  its  manufactures  and  fine  resi- 
dences. Distance  to  Worcester,  73  miles ; 
to  Boston,  117^ miles. 

I\o"\v  I.iOii4.lGxa,  on  the  Thames 
River,  three  miles  from  the  sea  and  13 


Stonington.] 


CONNECTICUT. 


[VriNHTED. 


railes  south  of  Norwich.  (See  Boston, 
Route  IV.)  The  harbor,  one  of  the  best 
in  the  United  States,  is  envi-oned  by 
hills  aiid  defended  by  Forts  Truinhall 
and  Griswold.  The  town  was  first  set- 
tled (1644)  by  John  Winthrop.  The 
Custom-House^  Court-House,  the  Female 
Academy,  and  Hitjh  School,  are  prominent 
edifices.  Railway  communication  with 
New  Haven,  Providence,  and  all  the  prin- 
cipal cities, 

WUUmantic  is  pleasantly  situated  on 
the  Williniantic  River,  30  miles  from 
New  London  by  the  Northern  Railway, 
at  the  intersection  of  that  line  v/ith  the 
Hartford,  Providence,  and  Flshkill  R.  R. 

Staiibrtl  ■  Springs,  20  miles  be- 
yond Willimantic,  are  regarded  as  among 
the  most  valuable  chalybeate  waters  in 
the  country.  Good  hotel  accommoda- 
tion. 

^toiiisagtosa^  on  the  Stonington 
and  Providence  Railway,  12  miles  from 
New  London,  and  50  miles  south  of  Provi- 
dence, is  a  place  of  some  historical  a,nd 
commercial  interest.     It  was   settled  in 


1G19,  and  incorporated  1801.  A  suc- 
cessful resistance  was  here  made  against 
the  attack  of  Sir  Thomas  Hardy  in  the 
War  of  1812.  The  Stonington  Railway, 
completed  in  1835,  was  the  first  line 
built  in  Connecticut.  Mystic,  four  miles 
from  Stonington,  is  situated  on  both 
sides  of  the  Mystic  River,  two  miles  from 
the  sea.  Ship  and  steamboat  building  is 
extensively  carried  on. 

Plainficld,  in  Windham  County,  35 
miles  from  Providence,  via  Providence, 
Hartford,  and  Fishlill  R.  R.,  is  a  thriving 
manufacturing  town. 

Wsaterl>ii.i*y^  the  western  termi- 
nus of  the  Providence  line,  is  a  thriving 
manufacturing  place,  occupying  a  beau- 
tiful slope  on  the  Naugatuck  River,  mid- 
way between  Bridgeport  and  Winsted. 
Trains  daily,  via  the  Naugatuck  Railway, 

^Wlaisteftl,  the  northern  terminus 
of  the  JVaugatuck  Railway,  is  a  thriving 
village  in  Litchfield  County.  Long  Lake 
has  its  outlet  at  the  west  end  of  the  vil- 
lage. Population,  4,000.  (The  Beardsley 
Hotel.) 


RUODE  ISLA^'D.] 


EHODE  ISL.VXD. 


[PPwOVIDENCE. 


E  II  ODE    ISLAND. 


RnoDE  Island  adjoins  Connecticut  on 
the  east  and  Massachusetts  on  the  south. 
It  is  entitled  to  distinction  as  the  smallest 
State  in  the  Union,  its  entire  area  not 
exccedinp:  1,159  square  miles,  with  an  ex- 
treme length  and  breadth  respectively  of 
47  and  37  miles.  It  is  divided  into  five 
counties,  and  contained  in  18G0, 175,000 
inhabitants.  Next  to  Providence,  the 
largest  towns  are  Smithfield,  Newport, 
Warwick,  Bristol,  and  Kingston. 

The  country  is  most  pleasantly  varied 
■with  hill  and  dale,  though  there  are  no 
mountains  of  any  great  pretensions. 
Ample  compensation  for  this  lack  in  the 
natural  scenery  is  made  by  the  numerous 
small  lakes  which  abound  everywhere, 
and  especially  by  the  beautiful  waters 
and  islands  and  shores  of  the  Xarragan- 
set  Ba)',  which  occupy  a  great  portion 
of  the  area  of  the  State.  The  Pawtucket, 
Pawtuxet,  and  Pawcatuck,  are  the  most 
considerable  streams.  Its  capitals.  Prov- 
idence and  Newport,  are  among  the 
most  ancient  and  most  interesting  places 
in  the  United  States,  and  the  latter  has 
long  ])een  one  of  the  most  fashionable 
American  watering-places. 

The  State  of  Khode  Island  was  first 
settled  at  Providence,  in  1G3C,  by  Koger 
Williams.  To  the  enlightened  and  lib- 
eral mind  of  "Williams  in  Khode  Island, 
and  to  the  like  true  wisdom  of  Penn  in 
I'ennsylvania  and  of  Lord  Baltimore  in 
Maryland,  America  owes  its  present  hap- 
py comlition  of  entire  freedom  of  con- 
science, perfect  religious  toleration  hav- 
ing been  made  a  cardinal  point  in  the 
l)oliry  of  those  colonies.  lUiude  Island 
pro|)er  was  settled  (1G38)  by  Governor 
Coddington  and  others,  at  Poeasset(now 
Portsmouth).  It  was  purchased  of  the 
Indians,  by  whom  it  was  called  Aquhl- 
ncck,  "  Isle  of  Peace."  Subsequently  it 
76 


was  called  "Isle  of  Phodcs "  (whence 
Rhode  Island),  from  the  beautiful  island 
of  that  name  in  the  Mediterranean.  The 
people  of  Rhode  Island  were  early  and 
active  participants  in  the  "War  of  the 
Revolution,  and  many  spots  within  hf^r 
borders  tell  thrilling  tales  of  the  stirring 
incidents  of  those  memorable  days. 


PHOVICENCE  AND  VICINITY. 

Hotels. — The  Aldrich  Jlotcse  (new), 
near  the  railroad  depot,  and  the  Cily 
Hotel  (old),  near  Broad  Street,  are  the 
principal  houses.  Neither  has  more 
than  moderate  accommodations.  A  first- 
class  hotel  is  among  the  most  pressing 
wants  of  the  city. 

Providence,  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
cities  in  New  England,  and  surpassed  only 
by  Boston  in  wealth  and  population,  is  the 
chief  city  of  Rhode  Island.  It  is  pleas- 
antly situated  on  the  northern  arm  of 
the  Narragansct  Bay,  called  Providence 
River.  It  is  an  ancient  town,  dating  as 
far  back  as  IGHG — when  its  founder, 
Roger  Williams,  driven  from  the  domain 
of  Massachusetts,  sought  here  that  reli- 
gious liberty  which  was  denied  to  him 
elsewhere. 

This  city  makes  a  charming  picture 
seen  from  the  approach  by  the  beautiful 
waters  of  the  Narragansct,  which  it  en- 
circles on  the  north  by  its  business  cpiar- 
ter,  rising  beyond  and  rather  abruptly 
to  a  lofty  terrace,  where  the  quiet  and 
gratcfidly  shaded  streets  are  filled  with 
dainty  cottages  and  handsome  mansions. 
Providence  was  once  a  very  important 
commercial  depot,  its  rich  ships  crossing 
all  seas,  and  at  tlie  present  day  the  city 
is  equally  distinguislied  for  its  manufac- 
turing   and    commercial   enterprise.     In 


rnOVIDENCE.] 


UnODE  ISLAND. 


[Rocky  Point. 


the  former  department  of  Imman  achieve- 
ment it  early  took  the  lead,  wliicli  it 
still  keeps,  the  first  cotton-mill  which  was 
built  in  America  being  still  in  use,  in 
its  suburban  village  of  Pawtucket,  and 
some  of  the  heaviest  mills  and  print- 
works of  the  Union  being  now  in  opera- 
tion within  its  limits.  It  has  also  exten- 
sive mauufoctories  of  machinery  and 
jewelry.  The  workshops  of  the  Ameri- 
can Screw  Company  are  the  best  appoint- 
ed of  their  kind  in  the  counti^y.  The 
tota,l  capital  invested  here  in  manufac- 
tures is  upward  of  $16,000,000. 

Providence  is  the  seat  of  Brown  Uni- 
versitif^  one  of  the  best  educational  estab- 
lishments in  America,  It  was  founded  in 
Warren,  Rhode  Island,  in  1704,  and  re- 
moved to  Providence  in  1'7'70.  Its  libra- 
ry is  very  large  and  valuable,  and  is 
remarkably  rich  in  rare  and  costly  works. 
R.  A.  Guild,  librarian. 

Rhode  Island  Hospifcd,  now  progress- 
ing toward  completion  in  the  south- 
western suburb,  will  be  one  of  the  finest 
structures  in  the  State.  The  entire  cost, 
including  grounds,  will  exceed  a  quarter 
million  of  dollars. 

27ie  Athenceum  has  a  fine  reading- 
room,  and  a  collection  of  29,000  books. 
T.  D.  IIed2;es,  librarian.  The  Providence 
Hldorical  Society^  incorporated  1 822,  has 
a  library  of  4,000  volumes.  The  Butler 
Hosp'dal  for  the.  Insane^  upon  the  banks 
of  Scekonk  River,  is  an  admirable  in- 
stitution, occupying  large  and  imposing 
edifices.  In  the  same  part  of  the  city, 
and  lying  also  upon  the  Seekonk  River, 
is  the  Swan  Point  Cemetery^  a  spot  of 
great  rural  beauty.  There  are  upward  of 
60  public  schools  in  Providence,  in  which 
instruction  is  given  to  between  eight  and 
nine  thousand  pupils.  The  Dexter  Asy- 
lum for  the  Poor  stands  upon  an  elevated 
range  of  land  east  of  the  river.  In  the 
same  vicinage  is  the  yearly  meeting 
boarding-school,  belonging  to  the  Society 
of  Friends.  The  Reform  School  occupies 
the  large  mansion,  in  the  southeast  part 
of  the  city,  formerly  known  as  the  Tock- 
wotton  House.  The  Home  for  Aged 
Women  and  the  Children''s  Frieyid  Society 
are  worthy  a  visit.  The  Custom-House 
(Post-Office,  and  United  States  Courts)  is 
a  handsome  granite  structure,  and  one  of 
the  principal  architectural  ornaments  of 


the  city.  The  railroad  depot,  some  of 
the  banks,  and  many  of  the  cliurches 
of  Providence,  are  imposing  structures. 
The  railways  diverging  from  Providence 
are  the  Providence  and  Worcester,  43 
miles,  to  Worcester,  Mass.  ;  Hartford, 
Providence,  and  Fishkill,  123  miles,  to 
Waterbury,  Conn. ;  Boston  and  Prov- 
idence, and  Stonington  and  Providence,  62 
miles,  to  New  London  (see  Routes  from 
Boston),  and  tlie  Providence,  Warren, 
a)id  Bristol.  What  Cheer  Rock. — Upon 
the  immediate  edge  of  the  city,  on  the  shore 
of  a  charming  bay  in  the  Seekonk  River, 
stands  the  famous  What  Clieer  Rock, 
where  the  founder  of  the  city,  Roger 
Williams,  landed  from  the  Massachusetts 
side,  to  make  the  first  settlement  here. 

At  HanVs  Hill,  three  or  four  miles 
distant,  is  a  beautiful  brook  with  a  pict- 
uresque little  cascade,  a  drive  to  which  is 
among  the  morning  or  evening  pleasures 
of  the  Providence  people  and  their  guests. 
Vue  de  V Eau  is  the  name  of  a  picturesque 
and  spacious  summer  hotel,  perched 
upon  a  high  terrace  four  miles  below 
the  city,  overlooking  the  bay  and  its 
beauties  for  many  miles  around. 

Gaspee  Point,  below,  upon  the  oppo- 
site shore  of  the  Narraganset,  was  the 
scene  of  an  exploit  during  the  Revolu- 
tion. Some  citizens  of  Providence,  after 
adroitly  beguiling  an  obnoxious  British 
revenue  craft  upon  the  treacherous  bar, 
stole  down  by  boats  in  the  night  and  set- 
tled her  business  by  burning  her  to  the 
water's  edge. 

ISocSiy  l^oisat,  equidistant  be- 
tween Providence  and  Newport,  is  an 
attractive  summer  retreat,  among  shady 
groves  and  rocky  glens,  upon  the  west 
shore  of  the  bay.  In  summer  time  boats 
ply  twice  a  day  on  excursion  trips  from 
Providence  to  various  rural  points  down 
the  bay,  charging  50  cents  only  for  the 
round  trip.  Rocky  Point  is  the  most 
favored  of  all  these  rural  recesses.  Thou- 
sands visit  it  in  the  course  of  the  sea- 
son, and  feast  upon  delicious  clams,  just 
drawn  from  the  water,  and  roasted  on  the 
shore  in  heated  seaweed,  upon  true  and 
orthodox  "  clam-bake  "  principles.  Let 
no  visitor  to  Providence  fail  to  eat  clams 
and  chowder  at  Rocky  Point,  even  if  he 
should  never  eat  again.  Here  is  a  good 
hotel  with  good  bathing-houses  attached, 

11 


Newport.] 


EIIODE  ISLAXD. 


[Nettport. 


and  a  tower  110  feet  high,  from  which  is 
a  charming  view  of  the  bay  and  land. 
Marked  Rock  is  another  famous  excur- 
sion ph\ce,  a  few  miles  higher  up  the 
bay.  It  is  reached  in  40  minutes  from 
Providence  by  boat.  The  towns  of  War- 
ren and  Bristol,  across  the  bay,  are  each 
worthy  of  a  visit.  They  may  both  be 
reached  several  times  a  day  from  Provi- 
dence, via  the  Warren  and  Bristol  Rail- 
road. Mount  Hope,  the  famous  home  of  the 
reno\vncd  King  Philip,  the  last  of  theWam- 
panoags,  is  just  below  Bristol,  upon  Mount 
Hope  Bay,  an  arm  of  the  Narraganset  on 
tlie  east.  From  the  crown  of  this  pictu- 
resque height  is  beheld  a  fine  panorama 
of  tbe  beautiful  Rhode  Island  waters. 
Upon  the  shore  of  Mount  Hope  Bay,  op- 
posite, is  the  busy  manufacturing  town 
of  Fall  River  (see  Index).  Off"  on  our 
right,  as  we  still  descend  toward  the  sea, 
is  Greenwich,  and  near  by  it  the  birth- 
place and  home  of  General  Nathaniel 
Greene,  the  Revolutionary  hero  ;  and  just 
below  is  the  township  and  (lying  inland) 
the  village  of  Kingston.  In  this  neigh- 
borhood or.ce  stood  the  old  snuff-mill  in 
which  Gilbert  Stuart,  the  famous  Amer- 
ican painter,  was  born. 

PrescoWs  Headquarters  is  a  ryot  of 
Revolutionary  interest  on  the  western 
shore  of  the  large  island,  filling  the  lower 
part  of  the  bay,  after  which  the  State  is 
named. 

The  routes  from  Providence  and  vicin- 
ity to  New  York  and  Boston  are  numer- 
ous. That  to  New  York  by  the  Hartford, 
Rrovideiice,  and  Ju.sIdiU,  and  Acw  York 
and  Knv  Haven  Railways,  162  miles,  is 
the  most  expeditious  ;  that  by  the  boats 
of  the  Fall  I^iver  line,  via  Newport,  the 
most  pleasant.  To  Boston  (43  miles),  by 
the  Ronton  and  Providence  Railway. 

IV  e  -w  p  o  r  1 , — Hotels,  the  Ocean 
House,  Touro  Street,  the  most  fasliion- 
a])le  and  most  delightfully  situated;  the 
Fillmore,  ihaAquidneck,  and  United  States. 
One  daily  newspaper  {News),  and  the 
Mercury,  the  oldest  weekly  newspaper 
but  one  in  the  United  States,  are  puljjish- 
cd  in  Newport.  Excellent  photograi)hic 
views  of  tlie  town  and  objecls  of  interest 
may  be  had  of  Mr.  J.  Ap|)li.by  Williams. 
His  gallery  is  on  Lower  Touro  Street,  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  Ocean  House. 

Route. — From   New  York    (Pier  No. 

i  O 


28,  North  River),  at  5  p.  m.,  daily,  in  the 
superb  steamers  of  the  Fall  River  line. 
From  Boston,  by  the  Old  Colony  and 
Kev:port  Raihoay,  via  Taunton  (6*7 
miles)  ;  or  by  rail  to  Providence,  and 
thence  by  boat  down  Narraganset  Bay. 

If  Newport  were  not,  as  it  is,  the  most 
elegant  and  fashionable  of  all  Americiin 
watering-places,  its  topographical  beau- 
ties, its  ancient  commercial  importance, 
and  its  many  interesting  historical  asso- 
ciations, would  yet  claim  for  it  distin- 
guished mention  in  these  pages.  The 
approach  seaward  is  charming.  Coming 
in  from  the  sea  round  Point  Judith,  a 
few  miles  brings  the  traveller  into  the 
waters  of  the  Narraganset  Bay,  where 
he  passes  between  Port  Woleott,  on  Goat 
Island,  and  the  stronghold  of  Port  Adams, 
upon  Brenton  Point  on  the  right,  and  en- 
ters the  harbor  of  the  ancient  town,  once 
among  the  commercial  capitals  of  the 
Union.  As  late  as  1*709  Newport  ex- 
ceeded New  York  in  the  extent  of  her 
foreign  and  domestic  commerce.  In  the 
Revolution,  the  British  long  held  posses- 
sion of  the  place,  duriiig  Avhich  time,  and 
at  their  departure  (IVTO),  it  became  al- 
most desolate.  Before  leaving,  they  de- 
stroyed 480  buildings,  burned  the  light- 
house, cut  down  all  the  ornamental  and 
fruit  trees,  broke  up  the  wharfs,  used  the 
churches  for  riding-schools  and  the  State 
House  for  a  hospital,  and  carried  off  the 
church  bells  and  the  town  records  to  New- 
York  ;  disasters  which  reduced  the  popu- 
lation from  12,000  to  4,000.  But  the  in- 
cidents of  this  period  have  left  some 
pleasant  memories  for  the  present  day, 
and  remembrances  of  the  fame  of  Com- 
modore Perry,  the  gallant  commander  on 
Lake  Erie,  who  was  born  in  Narragan- 
set, across  the  bay,  and  whose  remains 
lie  now  in  Newport ;  of  the  residence  of 
Rochambeau,  and  other  brave  officers  of 
the  French  fleet,  and  of  the  visits  of  Gen- 
eral Washington,  and  tbe  fetes  given  in 
his  honor ;  the  venerable  buildings  asso- 
ciated with  all  these  incidents  being  still 
to  be  seen.  Newport  was  settled  in  1037, 
and  incorporated  in  1700.  Pocassct,  or 
Portsmouth,  at  the  northern  extremity  of 
the  island,  had  been  settled  the  year 
previous.  The  old  town  lies  near  tlic 
water  ;  but  of  late  years,  smcc  the  place 
has  become  popular  as   a  summer  resi- 


Newport.] 


RHODE  ISLAND. 


[WOONSOCKET. 


ence,  a  new  citj'  of  charming  villas  and 

.  amptuous  mansions  has  sprung  up,  cx- 

'  onJing    far    along    upon    the    terraces 

liich  overlook  the  sea.    Of  the  old  build- 

igs,  and  of  those  which  belong  to  New- 

ort  per  se,  instead  of  in  its  character  of  a 

\  atcring-place,  are  the  ancient  8(ale  House 

/'or  Newport  is  a  semi-capital  of  Rhode 

1  sland),  the  Redwood  Libninj  and  Athence- 

'■■n,  the  Old  Stone  Mill^  said  to  have  been 

;'  e  property  of  Governor   Benedict  Ar- 

:!')ld,  built  in  1726  ;   Tammany  Hall  In- 

'■tute^  Triiiily  Churchy  the  Vernon  fam- 

\ '  mansion,  the  Pcrri/  moiiiimeid,    Com- 

ndore  Perry's  house,  built  in  1763,  and 

i  Mg  known  as  the  "  Granary  ;  "  the  forti- 

■  ations  in  the  harbor,  Fort  Adams,  Fort 

olcott,   Fort  Broivn,    and   the   Dump- 

I   'ffs.     Fort  Adams,  on  Brenton's  Point, 

i-  one  of  the  largest  woi^is  in  the  United 

ites.  It  mounts  four  hundred  and  sixty 

1  'ins.     The  chief  picturesque  attractions 

.   the  town  and  its  immediate  vicinity 

M  •,  the  fine  ocean-shores,  known  as  the 

J  i;st,  the  Second,  and  the  Third  Beach. 

,1     is   the    First,  v.diich   is  chie'ly   used 

;i.;   a   bathing-ground    by    the    Newport 

t;:3Sts.     It  is  half  a  mile  from  the  Ocean 

r  li  I  Fillmore  Houses.     Stages  run  during 

b^'ihing  hours.     At  the  Second  Beach  are 

t     famous  rocks  called  Purgatory,  and  the 

li-nighig  Pocks,  vrithin  whose  shadow  it 

i>;    said  that  Bishop  Berkeley  wrote  his 

■   'linute   Philosopher,"     The    Glen   and 

: '.  0  Spouting   Cave  are  charming  places 

i'l    ride   to,    when   the   weather   invites. 

/  Pond,  the   larc-est   sheet  of  sprina; 

■■:i:er   on   the   island,    is  easily  reached 

1iv>;q  Spouting  Cave. 

'Bright  and  queen-like  the  array 
Of  lilies  in  their  crystal  bed  ; 

Like  chalices  for  Beauty's  lip, 
Their  snowy  cones  half  open  lie, 

The  dew-di'ops  of  the  morn  to  sip, 
But  closed  to  day's  obtrusive  eye." 

he  waters   of  this  pond  swann  with 
r     )h. 


Newport  was  the  birthplace  of  the 
gifted  miniature  paintc'r  Ivialbone,  and 
Gilbert  Stuart's  place  of  nativity  may  be 
seen  in  Narragauset,  across  the  bay. 
Stuart  made  two  copies  of  his  great  Wash- 
ington picture  for  Rhode  Island,  one  of 
Avhich  may  be  seen  in  the  State  House 
at  Newport,  and  the  other  in  that  at 
Providence.  Among  the  interesting  rel- 
ics to  be  found  in  the  town  are :  Frank- 
lin's printing-press,  imported  by  James 
Franklin  in  1720.  It  is  in  the  office  of 
the  Newport  Mercury,  established  in 
1758.  Upon  this  press  the  first  news- 
paper issued  (1732)  was  printed.  The 
Chair  of  State,  in  which  Benedict  Ar- 
nold sat  at  the  reception  of  the  char- 
ter in  1663  is  in  the  possession  of  the 
Gould  family.  The  First  Baptist  Church, 
founded  in  1638,  and  claimed  as  the  old- 
est church  in  Rhode  Island,  is  worthy 
a  visit.  The  bell  in  the  tower  weighs  half 
a  ton.  The  American  Steamboat  Com- 
pany's steamers,  "  Bay  Queen,"  Captain 
Allen ;  and  "  City  of  Newport,"  Captain 
Kelley,  make  excursions  daily  (Sundays 
excepted)  between  Providence,  Rocky 
Point,  and  Newport,  Fares,  50  cents  and 
75  cents. 

Distances. — To  Providence,  SO  miles ; 
to  Fall  River,  18;  Point  Judith,  15; 
Block  Island,  30. 

Valley  P'alls,  six  miles  north  of  Provi- 
dence, on  the  Worcester  Railway,  con- 
tains several  large  cotton-mills. 

'^W ooaasoclcct.  16  miles  from 
Providence,  is  a  flourishing  manufactur- 
ing town  (well  worthy  a  visit  from  those 
interested  in  the  manufacture  of  cotton 
goods),  famous  for  its  cotton  manufac- 
tories, of  which  there  are  upward  of  20. 
Woonsocket  comprises  the  villages  of 
Beron,  Hamlet,  Jencksville,  Globe,  and 
Union.  Blackstone,  two  miles  beyond 
Vv^oonsocket,  is  an  extensive  manufactur- 
ing point.  The  Blackstone  Manufactur- 
ing Company  alone  produce  ten  mdlion 
yards  of  cotton  cloth  annually. 

7y 


Massachusetts.] 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


[Massachusetts. 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


Massachusetts,  one  of  the  orijjinal 
thirteen  States,  and  the  most  populous 
and  v.ealtliy  of  the  New  Endand  or  East- 
ern States,  i:5  bounded  on  the  north  by 
New  Hampshire  and  Vermont ;  east  by 
the  Atlantic  Ocean  ;  south  by  Connecticut 
and  lihode  Island,  and  west  by  New 
York.  Its  greatest  length,  from  east  to 
west,  is  145  miles,  and  its  mean  breadth 
'70  miles.  It  embraces  4,992,000  acres, 
and  is  divided  into  14  counties. 

The  landscape  here  is  of  varied  charac- 
ter, often  strikingly  beautiful,  embracing 
not  a  few  of  the  most  famous  scenes  in 
the  Union.  In  the  southeastern  part  of 
the  State  the  surface  is  fiat  and  sandy, 
though  the  sea-coast  is,  in  many  places, 
very  bold,  and  charmingly  varied  with 
fine  pictures  of  rocky  bluff"  and  cliff.  It 
al)0unds  in  aihnirable  summer  resorts, 
where  the  lovers  of  sea-breezes  and  bath- 
ing may  find  every  means  and  appliance 
for  comfort  and  jHeasure.  In  the  eastern 
and  central  portions,  the  physical  aspect 
of  the  country,  though  agreeably  diversi- 
fied, is  excelled  in  attraction  by  the  taste 
and  architectural  beauty  of  its  numerous 
cities,  villages,  and  smiling  homesteads, 
nowhere  so  abundant  and  so  interesting 
as  here.  The  Green  ^lountains  traverse 
the  western  portion  of  ^lassachusetts  in 
two  ridges,  lying  some  25  miles  apart, 
with  picturesque  valley  lands  between. 
Here  are  the  favorite  summer  resorts  of 
Htiksliire,  and  other  parts  of  the  llou- 
satonic  region.  Saddle  Mountain,  JI,505 
feat  Idgh,  is  a  spur  of  the  most  western  of 
the  two  ridges  we  have  mentioned,  known 
as  the  Taconic  or  the  Taugkannic  hills. 
Mount  Washington,  another  line  peak  of 
this  line,  has  an  altitude  of  2,024  feet. 
It  rises  in  the  extreme  southern  corner 
80 


of  the  State,  while  Saddle  Mountain 
stands  as  an  outpost  in  the  northwest 
ansile.  The  more  eastern  of  the  two  hill- 
ranges  here  is  called  the  Hoosic  Eidge. 
Noble  isolated  mountain  peaks  overlook 
the  winding  waters  and  valleys  of  the 
Connecticut — some  of  them,  though  not 
of  remarkable  altitude,  commanding 
scenes  cf  wondrous  interest,  as  Jlount 
Ilolyoke  and  Mount  Tom,  near  North- 
ampton. North  of  the  middle  of  the 
State  is  the  AVachusett  Mountain,  with 
an  elevation  of  2,018  feet.  On  Hudson's 
Brook,  in  Adams  County,  there  is  found 
a  remarkable  natural  bridge,  50  feet 
high,  spanning  a  limestone  ravine  500 
feet  in  leniith.  In  New  Marlborouuh, 
the  tourist  Avill  see  a  singular  rock  poised 
with  such  marvellous  art  that  a  finger  can 
move  it ;  and  on  Farmington  Eiver,  in 
Sandisfield,  he  will  delight  himself  with 
the  precipices,  300  feet  high,  knowu  as 
the  Hanging  Mountain.  Massachusetts 
has  some  valuable  mineral  springs, 
though  none  of  them  are  places  of  gen- 
eral resort.  In  Hopkinton,  mineral 
waters  impregnated  with  carbonic  acid, 
and  carbonates  of  iron  and  lime;  in 
Winchcndon,  a  chalyljcate  spring,  and 
one  in  Shutesbury,  containing  muriate  of 
lime.  Hut  we  need  not  make  further 
mention  of  those  points  of  interest  here, 
as  we  shall  have  occasion  to  visit  them 
all,  under  the  head  of  one  or  other  of  the 
group  of  New  England  States,  as  we  fol- 
low the  network  of  routes  by  which  they 
may  be  reached.  Though  small  in  area, 
compared  with  some  other  states  of  the 
Union,  Massachusetts  is  yet,  in  all  the 
qualities  which  make  national  fame,  one 
of  the  greatest  of  them  all.  Nowhere  are 
there   records   of  historical   incident   of 


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Massachusetts.1 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


[Massac 


the 

one 

are 

of 


r ' 


Routes.] 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


[Boston. 


greater  interest ;  nowhere  a  more  advanced 
social  position,  or  a  greater  intellect- 
ual attainmeat ;  nowhere  a  nobler  spirit 
of  commercial  enterprise ;  nowhere  a 
more  inventive  genius  or  a  more  indom- 
itable industry. 

The  history  of  the  State  began  with 
the  landing  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers  from 
the  May  Flower  at  Plymouth,  on  the 
memorable  22d  of  December,  1620. 

The  most  memoraljle  events  of  the 
Revolutionary  struggle  within  the  State 
were  the  battles  of  Lexington  and  Bun- 
ker Hill. 

During  the  late  Rebellion  (1861-'65), 
Massachusetts  took  a  decided  and  pa- 
triotic stand,  and  furnished  upward  of 
50,000  men  to  the  Union  forces.  Manu- 
factures rank  all  other  productive  inter- 
ests of  the  State  in  extent  and  value. 
The  manufacturing  companies,  having 
agencies  in  Boston,  number  over  280. 
(See  list  in  Boston  City  Directory,  page 
527.)  Boston  is  the  capital  and  chief 
commercial  city  of  the  State.  Population 
in  ISoO,  1,231,803. 


ROUTES  TO  BOSTON  FROM  NEW  YOUK. 

Route  1.  Railway — from  Fourth  Av- 
enue, corner  of  Twenty-seventh  Street, 
via  New  Haven,  Hartford,  Springfield, 
and  Worcester,  236  miles,  or  by  the 
Shore  Line^  via  JSTew  Haven,  New  London, 
Stonington,  and  Providence,  231  miles,  a 
pleasant  and  very  speedy  route  to  the 
latter  city.  Route  2.  Stonington — by 
steamer,  daily,  from  pier  No.  18  North 
River  (Cortland  Street),  to  Stonington; 
thence  by  railway,  via  Providence,  R.  I. 
Route  3.  Fall  River — steamer,  daily,  at 
5  p.  M.,  from  pier  No.  3  North  River,  via 
Newport,  R.  L ;  thence  by  Old  Colony 
and  Newport  Railway.  Route  4.  Nor- 
toich  Line — steamer,  daily,  from  pier  No. 
39  North  River,  to  New  London,  Conn. ; 
thence  by  railway,  via  Norwich,  Ct.,  and 
Worcester,  Mass.  The  most  expeditious 
routes  between  New  York  and  Boston 
are  those  we  have  marked  No.  I,  Rail- 
way Route — generally  known  as  the  New 
York  and  New  Haven  line.  Time  be- 
tween eight  and  nine  hours.  All  the 
other  routes,  by  steamboat  and  railway, 
occupy  the  night,  starting  about  5  p.  m., 


and  arriving  by  dawn  next  day.  The  New- 
Haven  route  (No.  1),  is  upon  the  New  York 
and  New  Haven  road  for  76  miles,  to 
New  Haven,  along  the  south  line  of  the 
State  of  Ccnnecticut,  near  the  shore  of 
Long  Island  Sound.  To  Williams  Briilge, 
13  miles  from  New  York,  the  track  is 
the  same  as  that  of  the  Harlem  Railroad 
to  Albany.  At  Fordham,  12  miles  i'roui 
the  city,  is  located  Jerome  Park  and  the 
line  new  Course  of  the  American  Jockey 
Club.  Leaving  Williams  Bridge,  we  pas3 
the  pretty  suburban  villages  of  New 
Rochelle,  Mamaroneck,  Rye,  and  Port 
Chester,  and  reach  Stamford,  37  miles  from 
New  York.  The  SItore  Line  leaves  this 
route  at  New  Haven,  and  extends  through 
New  London,  Stonington,  and  Provi- 
dence. 


BOSTOl^  AND   VICINITY. 

Hotels. — The  most  fashionable  and 
best-kept  houses  are  the  Revere,  on  Bow- 
doin  Squiire,  and  the  Tremont,  on  Tre- 
mont  Street,  both  under  the  able  man- 
agement of  Messrs.  Bingham,  Wrisley  & 
Co. ;  the  American  House,  in  Hanover 
Street,  is  centrally  located,  and  well  con- 
ducted, and  has  upward  of  300  rooms; 
the  United  States  Hotel,  immediately  op- 
posite the  New  York  and  New  Haven 
depot,  is  a  convenient  and  well-appohit- 
ed  house,  and  Rarker^s,  in  School  Street, 
is  conducted  on  the  European  plan.  The 
restaurant  attached  to  this  house  is  one 
of  the  best  in  the  country.  The  Cornldll 
Coffee  House  (Young's)  in  Washington 
Street,  is  also  a  well-appointed  and  much 
frequented  establishment.  The  charges 
at  the  leading  hotels  are  -$1  per  day. 
There  are  also  several  clubs,  admission 
to  which  is  obtained  by  members'  intro- 
duction. The  Union  is  the  largest  and 
best.  The  Refectories  and  Cafes  of 
Charles  Copeland,  Tremont  Row,  and 
of  Southmayd,  corner  Bromfield  Street, 
are  among  the  best  in  the  city. 

Conveyances,  etc. — The  means  of"  get- 
ting about "  in  Boston  are  quite  as  plen- 
tiful, and  generally  better,  as  well  as 
cheaper,  than  in  most  American  cities. 
ScoUay's  Building,  corner  Tremont  and 
Court  Street;-!,  Bowdoin  Square,  Horticultu- 
ral Hall,  on  Tremont  Stieet,  near  the  Tro- 

81 


Boston.] 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


[Boston. 


mont  ITouso,  and  No.  1 2  Broad  Street,  are 
the  principal  starting-points  for  the  city 
raihvay  cars.  "We  append  a  list  of  the 
main  car-liues  and  the  liack-fares. 

Tremord  Street  and  Depots. — From 
Seollay's  Building,  through  Court  to 
Green,  Leverett,  and  Causeway  Streets, 
by  the  Lov/ell,  Eastern,  and  Fitehburg 
Kailroad  Stations,  and  return  by  a  differ- 
ent route. 

East  Boston  and  Camden  Street. — 
From  Seollay's  Building  to  HanoAa^r, 
J'leet,  and  Commercial  Streets,  across 
East  Boston  Ferry,  through  Meridian 
Street  to  Chelsea ;  return  by  a  different 
route. 

Providence  Depot  and  Chelsea  Ferv]/. 
— From  Providence  Depot,  Pleasant 
Street,  through  Boylston,  Ti'emont,  Court, 
Hanover,  Richmond,  North,  and  Com- 
mercial Streets,  to  Chelsea  Ferry ;  return 
by  a  different  route. 

Boston  and  Roxhnry. — The  Norfolk 
Uous3,  Warren  and  Treraont  Streets  line 
of  cars  leave  station  at  Seollay's  Build- 
ing, and  reach  Roxbury  through  Harrison 
Avenue  and  "Washington  Street  or  Tre- 
mont  Street. 

The  Mount  Pleasant,  Dorchester  {via 
Grove  Hall),  Brookline,  Jamaica  Plaiji, 
Forest  Hills,  and  Eggleston  Square  cars 
leave  from  corner  of  Tremont  and  ilont- 
gomery  Place,  and  reach  Roxbury 
tlirough  the  same  routes  as  above. 

The  "  Meeting-house  Hill  and  Mount 
Bowdoin  Branch "  cars  leave  corner  of 
Federal  and  Summer  Streets. 

The  Dorchester  and  Milton  and  Quincy 
cars  run  from  the  corner  of  Broad  and 
State  Stref^ts. 

South  Boston  and  City  Point  Cars  leave 
Seollay's  Building,  passing  the  Worcester 
and  Old  Colony  Railway  Depots. 

Cluirlestown.,  Somci'ville,  and  3fcdford 
cars  run  from  Seollay's  Building,  across 
Charlcstown  Bridge,  and  return  via  War- 
ren Bridge.  (Route  to  Bunker  Hill.) 

Lynn  and  Chelsea  {via  Charlestown) 
cars  leave  Seollay's  Building  and  71 
Cornhill,  running  across  Charlestown 
Bridge,  and  returning  I'ut  Warren  Bridge. 

Cambridge  arid  Boston.  —  Harvard 
Square,  Prospect  Street,  Broadway,  and 
North  Avenue  cars  leave  Bowdoin  Square, 
opposite  Revere  House,  running  across 
Cambridge  Bridge ;  return  the  same  way. 
82 


Ifoimt  Auhurn,  Brighton,  Newton  Cor- 
ner ^Wcst  Cambridge  and  Waterloivn,  same 
as  above.  Stages  from  Watcrtown  for 
AValtham  every  alternate  hour. 

East  Cambridge  and  Boston. — Cam- 
bridge Street  and  East  Cambridge  cars 
leave  Bovrdoin  Square,  opposite  Revere 
House,  and  pass  over  Craigie's  Bridge  to 
East  Cambridge,  and  return.  (See  also 
Railway  Stations.) 

Fares. — Carriage  and  hack  fares  are 
regulated  by  law  as  follows  :  For  one  or 
more  adult  passengers  within  the  city 
proper,  or  from  one  place  to  another 
within  the  limits  of  South  Boston,  or  of 
East  Boston,  each  50  cents. 

Between  the  hours  of  11  p.  m.  and  7 
a.  m.,  the  fare  for  one  adult  passenger  $1. 

For  two  or  more  such  passengers,  each 
50  cents. 

For  one  adult  passenger,  from  any 
part  of  the  city  proper,  to  either  South 
Boston  or  East  Boston,  or  from  East  Eos- 
ton  or  South  Boston  to  the  city  proper, 

81. 

For  two  or  more  such  passengers  be- 
tween said  points,  each  75  cents. 

For  children  between  four  and  twelve 
years  of  age,  when  accompanied  by  an 
adult,  one-half  of  the  above  sums ;  and 
for  children  under  four  years  of  age, 
when  accompanied  by  an  adult,  no 
charge  is  made. 

Car  fares  are  6  cents  within  the  city. 
Exchange  (transfer)  tickets  G  cents  ad- 
ditional. 

Baggage. — One  trunk,  valise,  box, 
bimdle,  carpet-bag,  basket,  or  other  ar- 
ticle used  in  travelling,  shall  be  free  of 
charge ;  but  for  each  additional  trunk  or 
other  such  articles  5  cents  shall  be  paid. 

Complaints  of  overcharges  should  be 
made  to  R.  C.  Marsh,  Superintendent  of 
Hacks,  City  Hall. 

The  Soldiers  Messenger  Corps,  estab- 
lished in  18G5,  deliver  small  packages, 
letters,  &c.,  promptly.  Tiie  Messengers 
wear  scarlet  caps.  They  will  generally 
be  found  round  the  principal  hotels. 
Tariff  of  Charges,  15  to  20  cents  in  the 
city,  25  cents  outside. 

ISostoift  is  one  of  the  most  interesting 
of  the  great  American  cities,  not  only  on 
account  of  its  thrilling  traditionary  and 
historical   associations,  dating  from  the 


Boston.] 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


[Boston. 


earliest  days  of  llie  discovery  and  coloni- 
sation of  the  western  continent,  through 
all  the  trials  and  triumphs  of  the  child- 
hood, youth,  and  manhood  of  the  llepub- 
lie — but  for  its  dauntless  public  enter- 
prise, and  its  high  social  culture  ;  for  its 
great  educational  and  literary  facilities ; 
for  its  numerous  and  admirable  benevo- 
lent establishments  ;  for  its  elegant  public 
and  private  architecture,  and  for  the  sur- 
passing natural  beauty  of  its  suburban 
landscape.  Boston  is  divided  into  three 
sections — Boston  Proper,  East  and  South 
Boston.  The  old  city  is  built  upon  a 
peninsula  of  some  700  acres,  very  uneven 
in  surface,  and  rising  at  three  different 
points  into  an  eminence,  one  of  which  is 
138  feet  above  the  sea.  The  Indian  name 
of  this  peninsula  was  Shawmut,  meaning 
'.,'  Living  Fountain."  It  was  called  by  the 
earlier  inhabitants  Tremont  or  Trimount, 
its  swriquet  at  the  present  day.  The 
name  of  Boston  wms  bestowed  on  it  in 
honor  of  the  Rev.  John  Cotton,  v/ho  came 
hither  from  Boston  in  England.  The  first 
white  inhabitant  of  tlJs  peninsula,  now 
covered  by  Boston  proper,  was  the  Rev. 
John  Blackstone.  Here  he  lived  all  alorje 
until  John  Winthrop — afterward  the  first 
governor  of  Massachusetts— came  across 
the  river  from  Charlestown,  where  he  had 
dwelt  with  some  fellow-emigrants  for  a 
short  time.  About  1635,  Mr.  Blackstone 
sold  his  claim  to  the  now  populous  penin- 
sula for  £30,  and  removed  to  Rhode  Island. 
The  first  church  v/as  built  in  1G32;  the 
first  wharf  in  1673.  Four  years  later  a 
postmaster  w^as  appointed,  and  in  1704 
(April  24),  the  first  newspaper,  called  the 
Boston  News-Letier^  was  published.  The 
city  was  incorporated  February  23,  1822, 
with  a  population  of  45,000.  It  is  divided 
into  12  wards,  and  contains  a  population 
of  192,324. 

Boston  Harbor  is  large,  and  contains 
numerous  islands,  some  of  which  are  well 
worth  visiting.  (See  Fortifications.) 
A  narrow  isthmus,  which  is  now  called 
the  "  Neck,"  joins  the  peninsula  of  Old 
Boston  to  the  main-land  on  the  south, 
where  is  now  the  suburb  of  Roxbury. 
Boston  has,  indeed,  been  appropriately 
called  the  "mountain  city  in  the  sea." 
(See  Bridges,  etc.) 

South  Boston^  formerly  part  of  Dor- 
chester, extends  some  two  miles  along  the 


south  side  of  the  harbor,  from  Old  Bos- 
ton to  Fort  Independence.  Near  the 
centre,  and  two  miles  from  the  State 
House,  are  Dorchester  IleiglUs^  memora- 
ble as  having  been  occupied  and  forti- 
fied by  Washington  in  anticipation  of  an 
attack  by  the  British,  March  4,  1776. 
A  fine  view  of  the  city,  of  the  vicinity, 
and  the  sea,  may  be  obtained  from  these 
Heights.  Here,  too,  on  Telegraph  Hill,  is 
a  large  reservoir  of  the  Boston  water- 
works. The  Ferliins^  Ins'iiute  (Blind 
Asylum)  is  worthy  a  visit.  Admission  on 
Saturday  mornings.  Permits  granted  at 
20     Bromfield     Street.  Independence 

Square  contains  6  1-4  acres. 

liJast  Boston  (the  "Island  Ward")  is 
in  the  western  part  of  Noddle's  Island. 
It  was  the  homestead  of  Samuel  Mave- 
rick, while  John  Blackstone  was  sole 
monarch  of  the  peninsula,  1630.  Here 
is  the  Avharf  of  the  Cunard  steamers, 
1,000  feet  long.  East  Boston  is  con- 
nected by  two  ferries  with  the  city  proper. 
It  is  the  terminus  of  the  Grand  Junction 
Railroad.     Chelsea  is  near  by. 

The  principal  sights  in  and  round 
Boston  are  Bunker  Hill  Monument, 
Faneuil  Hall,  Boston  Common,  the  Public 
Garden,  State  the  House,  Mount  Auburn, 
and  Harvard  University  Buildings.  The 
Great  Organ,  the  City  Hospital,  the  City 
Hall,  and  one  or  tvro  other  public  build- 
ings, are  worth  visiting.  The  streets  are 
irregular  and  generally  narrow.  Wash- 
ington and  Tremont  Streets  are  the 
principal  thoroughfares.  The  suburban 
towns  and  villages  of  Cambridge,  Rox- 
bury, Charlestown,  Chelsea,  Brookline, 
and  Dorchester,  are  chiefly  occupied  as 
the  residences  of  Boston  merchants. 
They  contain  an  aggregate  population 
of  114,332.  Boston  is  well  supplied 
with  water  from  Cochituate  Lake,  3^ 
miles  long,  situate  in  Framingham  and 
Natick  Tov.nships,  12  miles  from  the 
city.  The  whole  cost  of  the  pubhc  water- 
works amounts  thus  far  to  seven  millions 
of  dollars. 

Squares,  Monuments,  etc.  —  Boston 
Common  is  a  large  and  charming  public 
ground  in  a  central  portion  of  the  city 
proper.  The  fence  enclosing  it  is  1^ 
miles  in  length.  It  contains  nearly  50 
acres,  of  every  variety  of  surface,  with 
inviting  walks,  grassy  lawns,  and  grand 

83 


Boston.] 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


[Boston. 


old  trees.  It  is  the  pride  of  the  city, 
and  is  much  admired  by  strancjers.  A 
poet  "  to  the  manor  born  "  thus  apostro- 
phizes this  famous  ground  and  its  noble 
tree : 

TThen  first  from  mother  Earth  you  sprung, 
Ere  Chaucer,  Spenser,  Shakespeare  sung, 
Or  Puritans  had  come  among 
The  savages  to  loose  each  tongue 

In  psalms  and  prayers. 
These  forty  acres,  more  or  less, 
Kow  gayly  clothed  in  Nature's  dress, 
"Where  Yankees  Avalk,  and  brag,  and  guess. 
Was  but  a  "howling  wilderness" 

Of  Avolvcs  and  bears. 

A  pond  and  fountain,  the  site  of  the 
ancient  "Frog  Pond,"  sometimes  called 
Cochituate  Lake,  occupy  a  central  point 
in  the  grounds,  overlooked  by  Beacon, 
Tremont,  Boyleston,  and  Park  Streets, 
on  which  stand  many  of  the  old  man- 
sions of  the  place.  On  the  upper  corner, 
the  massive,  dome-surmounted  walls  of 
the  State  Capitol  are  seen  to  great  ad- 
vantage. The  Old  Elm  near  the  pond 
is  an  object  of  much  interest.  It  is  be- 
heved  to  have  existed  before  the  settle- 
ment of  the  city,  having  attained  its  full 
growth  in  1'722.  It  v/as  nearly  destroyed 
by  a  storm  in  1832.  Since  1854  it  has 
been  protected  by  an  iron  fence. 


Majestic  tree! 
"What  wondrous  cliauges  have  you  seen 
Since  you  put  forth  your  primal  green 

And  tender  shoot ; 
Three  lmuth\d  years  your  life  has  spanned, 
Yet  calm,  sereu',',  erect  you  stand. 
Of  great  renown  throughout  tlie  land, 
Braced  up  with  many  an  iron  band. 
And  sliowing  marks  of  Time's  hard  hand 

From  crown  to  root. 

If  *  -  *  *  * 

And  you  shall  see  much  more  beside. 
Ere  to  your  rdot,  old  Boston's  pride, 

The  axe  is  laid. 
And  long,  1  trust,  the  time  will  be, 
Ere  mayor  and  council  sit  on  thee, 
And  hud  witli  unaniniity 

That  you're  decayed; 

For  you  are  still  quite  hale  and  stanch. 
Though  liere  antl  there  perhaps  a  branch 

Is  slightly  rotten  ; 
And  you  will  stantl  and  hold  your  sway 
"When  he  wlio  pens  this  rhyme  to-day 
Shall  mingle  with  tlio  common  clay, 

And  be  forgotten. 

The  Common  drops  from  Beacon  Street, 
the  southern  declivity  of  Beacon  Hill,  by  a 
84 


gentle  descent  to  Charles  River.  Ad- 
joining the  Common,  fronting  on  Charles 
Street,  is  the  Public  Garden.  This  em- 
braces 24  acres,  and  is  ornamented  ^vith 
walks,  ponds,  parterres  of  flowers,  and 
a  conservatory.  While  in  this  vicinity  the 
pedestrian  tourist  will  be  repaid  by  a  visit 
to  the  new  streets  and  buildings  on  Avhat 
is  called  the  ''Back  Bay."  Arlington 
Street  and  Commonwealth  Avenue  are 
handsome  promenades.  A  statue  to 
Hamilton,  of  granite,  stands  on  the  lat- 
ter. The  new  buildings  of  the  Societies 
of  Natural  History  and  Technology  are 
located  here.  Maclsione  Sqnore  and 
Iranklbi  Square  are  small  but  ornamen- 
tal grounds  on  Washington  Street,  passed 
on  the  way  to  Pioxbury  and  the  Cemetery 
of  Forest  Hills.  Concord,  Chester,  and 
Eori  Hill  Squares  are  smaller  public 
grounds.  The  Riverside  Trotting  Park, 
3  miles  from  the  city,  is  reached  by  the 
Western  Avenue. 

PunLTC  Buildings,  j:.iG.—Fancuil  Hall. 
This  flimous  edifice,  called  the  "  Cradle 
of  Liberty,"  is  in  "Faneuil  Hall  Square," 
its  main  entrance  being  upon  Merchants' 
Bow  East.  It  is  125  years  old,  and  is  an 
object  of  deep  interest  to  Americans. 
Here  the  fathers  of  the  Revolution  met 
to  harangue  the  people  on  the  events  of 
that  stirring  period  ;  and  often  since  that 
time  the  great  men  of  the  State  and  na- 
tion have  made  its  walls  resound  with 
their  elotpience.  It  was  presented  to  the 
city  by  Peter  Faneuil,  a  di.vtinguished 
merchant,  who,  on  the  4th  of  July,  1740, 
made  an  offer,  in  a  town-meeting,  to  build 
a  market-house.  The  building  was  be- 
gun the  following  year,  and  finished  in 
1*742.  Tlie  donor  so  far  exceeded  his 
promise,  as  to  erect  a  spacious  and  beau- 
tiful Town  Hall  over  it  and  several  other 
convenient  rooms.  The  dimensions  of  the 
original  building  were  100  by  40.  De- 
stroyed by  fire  in  1761,  it  was  rebuilt  in 
1703,  and  enlarged  to  its  present  dimen- 
sions in  1805.  A  full-length  portrait  of 
the  ibunder,  together  with  tlie  pictures  of 
AVashington,  by  Stuart,  and  of  Webster, 
by  Healey,  occupy  places  upon  the  west 
wall.  Portraits  of  President  Lincoln,  by 
Ames,  and  of  Governor  Andrew,  by 
Hunt,  are  also  to  be  seen.  The  pictures, 
regarded  eitlier  as  likenesses  or  works  of 
art,  are  hardly  worthy  the  places  they  oc- 


Boston.] 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


[Boston. 


cupy.  Faneuil  Hall  Ifarket,  to  the  east 
of  the  Ilall,  is  a  substantial  and  impi)sing 
granite  edifice.  It  was  commenced,  Au- 
gust 20,  1824,  is  585  feet  in  length,  and 
covers  an  area  of  27,000  feet.  Quiuci/ 
Hall,  over  the  market,  is  a  handsome 
apartment,  surmounted  by  a  dome. 

Banker  Hill  Jfonumeiif,  commemora- 
tive of  the  eventful  battle  fought  on  the 
spot,  is  in  Charlestown,  occupying  the  site 
of  the  old  redoubt  on  Breed's  Hill.  The 
observatory  at  the  top  of  this  structure 
commands  a  magnificent  view,  embracing 
a  wide  extent  of  land  and  water  scenery. 
The  journey  up  is  somewhat  tedious,  trav- 
ersing nearly  300  steps.  The  dedication 
of  this  monument  took  place  June  lY, 
1843,  in  the  presence  of  President  Tyler 
and  cabinet.  On  the  hill  is  a  stone  mark- 
ing the  spot  where  Warren  fell.  Horse 
cars  run  from  the  head  of  Tremont  Street 
to  the  monument.  Near  at  hand,  extend- 
ing between  the  mouths  of  the  Charles 
and  Mvstic  Rivers,  and  embracing  about 
100  acres  in  extent,  is  the  United  States 
Navy  Yard.  It  contains  among  other 
things  a  rope-walk,  the  longest  in  the 
country.  The  Dry  Dock,  opened  June 
24,  1833,  is  341*  feet  long,  and  cost 
$675,000.  The  State  Prison  in  Charles- 
town  is  worth  visiting.  In  the  old  grave- 
yard adjoining  the  prison  is  the  monu- 
ment to  John  Harvard.  It  is  of  granite 
15  feet  high,  and  was  erected  September 
26,  1828,  by  the  graduates  of  the  Har- 
vard University. 

The  State  House  occupies  a  command- 
ing site  on  the  summit  of  Beacon 
Hill,  overlooking  the  "  Common."  Ac- 
cess by  Beacon  and  Park  Streets.  Its 
foundation  is  110  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  Length,  173  feet;  breadth,  61. 
The  edifice  was  commenced  July  4,  1795, 
and  completed  in  1798,  at  a  cost  of  $133,- 
330.  It  was  enlarged  in  1855  at  a  cost 
of  $243,204.  On  the  entrance  floor 
(Doric  Hall)  is  to  be  seen  Chantrey's 
statue  of  Washington.  Near  by  is  the 
staircase  leading  to  the  dome,  where 
visitors  are  required  to  register  their 
names,  and  from  the  top  of  which  is  ob- 
tained a  fine  view  of  the  city,  the  bay, 
with  its  islands,  and  the  suburban  towns. 
Bronze  statues  of  Daniel  Webster  and 
Horace  Mann  occupy  places  on  the  east 
front  facing  the  Common.    In  the  rotunda 


of  the  building  is  a  collcclion  of  flags  car- 
ried by  the  State  troops  in  the  Kebellion 
of  1861-'65,  and  two  brass  cannon  cap- 
tured in  the  war  of  1812.  The  tal)lcts  on 
the  eastern  wall  of  this  apartment  are 
interesting.  The  library  contains  25,000 
volumes. 

The  Old  State  House,  at  the  head  of 
State  Street,  is  an  object  of  considerable 
interest.  Here  more  than  a  century  ago 
the  "  Great  and  General  Court  of  Massa- 
chusetts" sat. 

The  Custora-House  is  well  located  at 
the  foot  of  State  Street,  between  the  head 
of  Long  and  Central  Wharves.  The 
foundation  rests  on  3,000  piles.  It  was 
commenced  in  1837  and  finished  in  1849, 
at  a  cost  of  $1,000,000.  It  is  cruciform, 
constructed  of  granite,  and  has  an  ex- 
treme length  of  140  feet,  and  breadth  95 
feet.  The  longest  arms  of  the  cross  are 
75  feet  wide,  and  the  shortest  67  feet, 
the  opposite  fronts  and  ends  being  all 
alike.  The  portico  on  either  front  is  sup- 
ported by  six  fluted  Doric  columns,  32 
feet  high,  and  weighing  each  42  tons. 
The  entire  height  to  the  top  of  the  dome 
is  90  feet.  A  fine  view  of  the  harbor  and 
bay  is  had  from  the  I'oof. 

The  Exchange,  or  Merchants''  Exchange, 
55  State  Street,  was  completed  in  the  fall 
of  1842,  at  a  cost  of  $175,000.  It  is  70 
feet  high  and  250  feet  deep,  covering 
about  13,000  feet  of  ground.  The  front 
is  built  of  Quincy  granite,  with  four  pilas- 
ters, each  45  feet  high,  and  weighing  55 
tons  each.  The  roof  is  of  wrought  iron, 
and  covered  with  galvanized  sheet  iron  ; 
and  all  the  principal  staircases  are  fire- 
proof, being  constructed  of  stone  and 
iron.  The  centre  of  the  basement  story 
is  occupied  by  the  Post  Office.  The  great 
central  hall,  a  magnificent  room,  is  58  by 
80  feet,  having  18  beautiful  columns  in 
imitation  of  Sienna  marble,  with  Corin- 
thian capitals,  and  a  skylight  of  colored 
glass,  finished  in  the  most  ornamental 
manner.  This  room  is  used  for  the  mer- 
chants' exchange  and  subscribers'  read- 
ing-room. 

The  Coitrt-House  is  a  fine  building  in 
Court  Square,  fronting  on  Court  Street. 
It  is  built  of  Quincy  granite,  and  is 
185  feet  long  by  50  feet  wide.  The 
corner  stone  was  laid,  September, 
1833.      In  this  building  are  held    the 

85 


Boston.] 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


[B 


OSTON. 


TJnited  States,  State,  County,  City,  Pro- 
bate, and  Police  Courts.  In  the  base- 
ment is  the  City  Lock-up  or  "  Tombs." 
In  the  rear  of  the  Court-House  are  t\^•o 
large  brick  buildings  kno^^-n  as  Massa- 
chusetts Block  and  Barrhiers''  Hall.  The 
U.  S.  Circuit  and  District  Courts  are 
held  at  No.  140  Tremont  Street. 

The  CitiiHaU.,  fronting  on  School  Street, 
near  the  Court-House  is  a  stately  edifice, 
though  seen  to  poor  advantage  in  that  con- 
fined locality.  It  is  of  New  Hampshire 
granite.  The  corner  stone  was  laid  Decem- 
ber 22,  1862,  and  the  building  dedicated, 
September  17,  1865.  Bryant  &  Oilman, 
architects.  Cost,  $o05,191.  A  colossal 
bronze  statue  of  Benjamin  Franklin,  who 
was  a  native  of  Boston,  erected  Septem- 
ber, 1856,  stands  in  front  of  the  building. 
This  fine  work  was  modelled  by  R.  B. 
Greenough,  brother  of  the  distinguished 
sculptor,  Horatio  Greenough.  The  head- 
quarters of  the  Chief  of  Police  and  Chief 
Engineer  of  the  Fire  Department  are 
in  the  City  Hall. 

The  Massaclmsetfs  General  Hospital,  in- 
corporated 1811,  covers  an  area  of  four 
acres  on  Charles  River,  between  Allen  and 
Bridge  Streets.  It  is  constructed  of 
Chelmsford  granite.  Near  by,  at  the  foot 
of  Bridge  Street,  is  the  Massaclnisctts 
3Iedical  College,  attached  to  Harvard 
College.  The  Warren  Anatomical  Cab- 
inet and  Medical  Library  are  worth  visit- 
ing. In  the  laboratory  of  this  building, 
the  fatal  altercation  between  Professor 
Webster  and  Dr.  Parkman  occurred. 

The  City  Hospital  is  a  conspicuous 
granite  edifice,  surmounted  by  a  lofty 
dome.  It  stands  on  Harrison  Avenue, 
opposite  Worcester  Square,  and  cost 
$408,844,  exclusive  of  the  grounds.  The 
Masonic  Tem-ple  completed  1806,  is  a 
handsome  granite  structure  of  six  stories. 
It  occupies  a  prominent  locale  at  the 
corner  of  Tremont  and  Boylcston  Streets, 
and  is  generally  admired.  The  old 
Masonic  Temple,  dedicated  May  CO,  1832, 
stands  further  up  Tremont  Street,  on  the 
site  of  the  old  Washington  Garden.  It 
is  now  used  for  the  i)urposes  of  the 
United  States  Courts.  Ordivay  Hall,  in 
Province  House  Court,  in  provincial 
times,  was  the  i-esidence  of  the  Colonial 
Governors.  Horticultural  Hall,  in  Tre- 
mont Street,  between  Bromficld  Sti^eet 
86 


and  Montgomery  Place,  is  an  ornamental 
granite  Gothic  building  lately  erected, 
much  admired  for  its  chaste  architect- 
ural design  and  finish.  The  City  Jail  on 
Charles  Street,  near  the  Medical  College, 
is  an  octagonal-shaped  granite  structure, 
with  four  wings,  conducted  on  the  "  Au- 
burn plan."  The  Beacon  Hill  Reservoir^ 
City  Waterworks,  completed  in  1849,  is 
a  massive  granite  structin^e,  200  feet  long 
and  66  feet  high,  frontinc;  on  Derne  Street. 
Literary  AKD  Scientific  Institutions. 
Boston  so  long  and  highly  distinguished 
for  its  literary  character,  as  to  have  won 
the  name  of  the  "  Athens  of  America," 
has,  beside  its  innumerable  libraiies  and 
institutions  of  learning,  more  than  100 
periodical  publications  and  newspapers, 
dealing  wdth  all  themes  of  study,  and  all 
shades  of  opinion  and  inquiry.  The  Boston 
Public  Library^  instituted  in  1852,  is  on 
Boylston  Street,  facing  the  Common,  near 
Tremont  Street.  The  present  building 
was  erected  in  1856,  from  designs  by 
Charles  Kirby,  at  a  cost  of  8250,000.  It 
possesses,  at  this  time,  about  130,000 
volumes.  Charles  C.  Jewett,  Superin- 
tendent ;  Edward  Capen,  Librarian.  The 
Boston  AthoKBum  occupies  an  imposing 
edifice  of  Paterson  freestone,  in  the  Pal- 
ladian  style,  on  Beacon  near  Tremont 
Street.  It  was  incorporated  in  1807,  and 
is  one  of  the  best  endowed  literary  estab- 
lishments in  the  world.  There  are  in  the 
library  90,000  volumes,  and  an  extensive 
collection  of  tracts.  The  Athena2um 
possesses  a  fine  gallery  of  paiyitijigs 
(third  story),  in  connection  with  which 
the  annual  displays  of  art  are  made.  The 
sculpture  gallery,  80  feet  long,  in  the  first 
story,  contains  several  fine  specimens  of 
art.  Tickets  to  picture  and  sculpture  gal- 
leries, 25  cents.  The  Mcrca)itile  Library, 
founded  1820,  is  at  10  Summer  Street, 
corner  of  Hawley.  It  has  19,000  volumes 
and  a  lecture  hall.  Spacious  reading 
rooms  are  attached  to  the  Public,  Ifer- 
cantilc,  and  Athcncenm.  Libraries,  which 
are  free  to  strangers.  The  other  reading 
rooms  of  the  city  are  the  Merchants''  Ex- 
change, 55  State,  Young  Men^s  Christian 
Association,  5  Tremont  Temple;  the 
Church,  10  Studio  building,  and  the  Kew 
Church,  21  Brorafi.eld  Street.  The  Massa- 
chusetts Historical  Society,  30  Tremont 
Street,  organized  in  1791,  possesses  12,000 


Boston.] 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


[Boston. 


volumes,  and  many  valuable  manuscripts, 
coins,  charts,  maps,  etc.  The  .A/ncr- 
ican  Academy  of  Arts  and  Sciences, 
one  of  the  oldest  societies  of  the  kind  in 
the  country  (I'/SO),  has  20,000  volumes. 
It  occupies  an  apartment  in  the  Athenee- 
um.  Besides  these  libraries,  Boston  has 
many  others  ;  as,  the  Stale  Librari/,  the 
Social  Law  Libi^iri/,  General  Theological 
Library,  41  Tremont  Street,  organized 
April  20,  1800,  etc.  The  Lowell  Lnstitute, 
founded  by  John  Lowell,  Jr.,  Washing- 
ton Street,  provides  for  regular  courses 
of  free  lectures  upon  natural  and  re- 
vealel  religion,  and  many  scientific  and 
art  topics.  We  may  mention,  also,  among 
the  foremost  literary,  scientific,  and  art 
societies  of  the  city,  the  Institute  of  Tech- 
nology, and  the  Natarcd  History  Society, 
on  Berkeley  and  Boylston  Streets  (Ad- 
mission, Wed.  and  Sat.  afternoons,  free). 
The  La  Frcsnaye  Collectio)i  of  birds  in 
the  Museum  of  Natural  History  numbers 
8,989  specimens.  The  School  of  Tech- 
nology is  not  yet  complete.  It  is  mod- 
elled on  the  plan  of  the  Conrjcrvatoire  des 
Arts  et  Metiers,  and  the  LJcole  Cen.tr ale, 
of  Paris,  and,  when  finished,  will  embrace 
three  departments,  to  be  respectively 
known  as  the  "Society  of  Arts,"  "Mu- 
seum of  Industrial  Art  and  Science,"  and 
"  School  of  Science  and  Art."  The  Amer- 
ican Statistical,  the  Musical,  Educational, 
and  the  Handel  and  Haydn  Societies,  15 
India  Street,  and  the  Boston  Acadouy 
of  Music,  are  flourishing  institutions. 

Many  of  the  public  schools  of  Boston 
are  well  worthy  a  visit  from  those  in- 
terested in  the  cause  of  education.  The 
Latin  and  English  high  schools  on  Bed- 
ford Street  are  the  most  prominent.  The 
former  was  established  in  1635,  and  the 
latter  in  1821.  There  are  25  grammar 
and  49  primary  schools  in  Boston,  occu- 
pying G38,o40  feet  of  ground,  and  cost- 
ing in  the  aggregate  $2,988,260.  The 
oiBce  of  the  Superintendent  of  Pubhc- 
Schools  is  in  the  City  Hall. 

Harvard  l/^iiversiiy.  This  venerable 
seat  of  learning  is  at  CambridEfC,  three 
miles  from  the  city  of  Boston.  It  was 
founded  in  1G38,  by  the  Rev.  John  Har- 
vard. The  University  embraces,  besides  its 
collegiate  department,  law,  medical,  and 
theological  schools.  The  buildings  are 
15  in  number,  all  located  in  Cambridge, 


except  that  of  the  medical  school  in 
North  Grove  Street,  in  Boston.  Oore 
Hall,  and  University  Hall,  are  handsome 
edifices.  The  former  containing  the  li- 
brar)',  and  the  latter  the  chapel,  lecture- 
rooms,  etc.  Holden  Chapel  contains  the 
Anatomical  Museum.  The  Observatory 
and  telescope  are  worthy  inspection. 

Churches,  etc. — The  churches  of  the 
city  are  numerous,  as  might  be  expected 
of  the  home  of  the  Puritans.  They  num- 
ber 114 — the  Unitarians  having  the 
largest  share.  The  following  list  cm- 
braces  those  most  conspicuous  for  their 
age,  historical  associations,  or  architec- 
ture. CJirist  Church,  in  Salem  Street,  is 
an  ancient  structure,  having  been  erected 
in  1722.  Trinity  Church,  erected  in  1'734, 
is  at  the  corner  of  Summer  and  Hawley 
Streets.  Kvig''s  Chapel,  at  the  corner  of 
Tremont  and  School  Streets,  is  generally 
visited  by  strangers.  It  v/as  founded  in 
1686.  The  present  building  is  a  plain 
granite  stnicture, erected  1750-54.  The 
stained  glass  v/indows  over  the  altar, 
added  in  1862,  are  much  admired.  (See 
Cemeteries.)  Old  South  Church,  at  the 
corner  of  Washington  and  Milk  Streets, 
is  an  object  of  much  interest.  It  is  of 
brick,  vv'as  erected  (1730)  on  the  site 
of  the  original  church  (1670),  which  was 
of  wood,  and  has  one  of  the  loftiest  spires 
in  the  city.  This  church  was  used  as  a 
place  of  meeting  by  the  heroes  of  '76, 
and  was  subsequently  converted  into  a 
riding  school  for  Burgoyne's  troops.  Tlie 
Friiice  Library  has- some  valuable  works. 
The  building  opposite  the  church  is  said 
to  mark  the  site  of  Franklin's  birthplace. 
Brattle  Street  CMcrch  is  an  ancient  look- 
ing Eevolutionary  structure,  frequently 
visited  by  strangers.  It  was  consecrated, 
July  25,  1773,  and  occupies  the  site  of 
the  old  wooden  structure,  founded  1699. 
The  "  round  shot  "  fired  from  the  Am.eri- 
can  guns  at  Cambridge  during  the  evacu- 
ation of  Boston  by  the  British,  can  be 
seen  in  the  church  walls.  The  late  Ed- 
ward Everett,  once  presided  over  this 
church.  St.  PauVs  Church,  facing  the 
Common,  between  Winter  and  West 
Streets,  built  in  1820,  is  of  gray  granite, 
112  by  72  feet,  in  the  Grajco-Ionic  style. 
The  pillars  supporting  the  portico  are  of 
Potomac  sandstone.  Tremont  Temple, 
used  for  devotional  purposes,  is  on  Tre- 

S7 


Boston.] 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


[Boston. 


mont  Street.  The  large  hall  has  sittings 
for  3,000  people.  Fark  IS'rat  Churchy 
facing  Tremont  Street,  near  the  Common, 
founded  in  1809,  has  the  highest  spire 
in  the  city. 

Cemeteries. — Ilount  Auburn  Cemete- 
ry^ about  a  mile  from  Harvard  University, 
and  about  four  miles  from  Boston,  by  the 
road  from  Old  Cambridge  to  Watertown, 
constitutes  one  of  the  sights  of  Boston, 
and  should  be  seen  by  every  visitor. 
It  is  the  property  of  the  Massachusetts 
Horticultural  Society,  was  consecrateii 
September  24,  1831,  and  contains  140 
acres.  It  is  the  oldest  and  by  many 
considered  the  most  beautiful  of  Amer- 
ican rural  burying-places,  embellished 
by  landscape  and  horticultural  art 
and  taste,  and  many  elegant  and  costly 
monuments.  Cars  run  from  the  station 
in  Bowdoin  Square,  via  Cambridge  (Har- 
vard College),  every  15  minutes,  during 
the  day,  and  until  half-past  eleven  o'clock 
at  night.  The  gateway  is  of  Quincy 
granite,  and  cost  §10,000.  Central^ 
Maple^  Chapel^  Spruce,  and  other  lead- 
ing avenues,  afford  u  circuit  of  the  entire 
grounds,  with  a  view  of  the  principal 
monuments.  The  Chapel,  an  ornament- 
ed Gothic  edifice  of  granite,  with  stained 
glass  windows,  contains  statues  of  Win- 
throp,  Otis,  John  Adams,  and  Judge  Story. 
The  Toicer,  GO  feet  high,  in  the  rear  of 
the  grounds,  is  187  feet  above  Charles 
River,  and  commands  a  wide  and  charm- 
ing view  for  many  miles.  It  is  reached 
by  Central,  Walnut,  and  Mountain  Av- 
enues. Forest  Fond  and  Dell  Fond,  and 
the  numerous  fountains,  lakes,  and 
ponds  in  dilTercnt  parts  of  the  cemetery, 
form  a  novel  and  not  altogether  appro- 
priate feature  of  Mount  Auburn.  The 
Spxrzhcim  Ifo^ivmcni  and  the  Fowdiich 
Stalnc,  are  in  Central  and  Chapel  Av- 
enues. 

Forest  Hill,  in  "West  Boxbury,  next 
to  Mount  Auburn,  is  most  visited  of  the 
Boston  cemeteries.  It  has  an  imposing 
cri trance  of  IGO  feet  front  on  Scarborough 
Street.  It  was  consecrated,  June  28, 
1848.  A  fine  view  is  had  from  Snoio 
Flake  Cliff.  Mount  Hope  Cemetery,  in 
West  l?o.\bury,  wr.s  purchased  by  the 
city  (1857),  for  s35,000. 

Wood/awn,  four  miles  north  of  Boston, 
and  tvro  miles  from  Chelsea,  incorporat- 
88 


ed  1850,  has  many  attractive  features  as 
a  rural  burying-ground.  The  gate-house 
is  a  Gothic  structure,  5G  feet  high.  Fock 
Tower  comtnands  a  fine  view  of  the  Bay, 
islands,  and  sea.  Cranary  Burying- 
Ground,  adjoining  Park  Street  Church, 
between  Tremont  and  Beacon  Streets, 
contains  a  monument  to  the  parents  of 
Franklin.  It  is  of  Quincy  granite,  25 
feet  in  height.  The  Ceriielery  attached  to 
King's  Chapel,  at  the  corner  of  Tremont 
and  School  Streets,  contains  the  remains 
of  Johnson,  the  "Father  of  Boston,"  as 
he  has  been  termed ;  and  of  Governor 
John  Winthrop. 

Places  of  Amusement,  etc. — The 
theatres  and  other  places  of  popular 
amusement  in  Boston,  though  by  no 
means  numerous,  are  well  conducted  and 
much  frequented. 

Boston  Theatre,  on  Washington  Street, 
is  one  of  the  best  conducted  and  deserv- 
edly popular  temples  of  the  ih-ama  in  the 
country.  The  audiences  at  this  theatre 
are  generally  large  and  select. 

Boston  Museum,  on  Tremont,  between 
Court  and  School  Streets,  is  a  spacious 
edifice.  (Curiosities  and  dramatic  enter- 
tainments.) 

Howard  Athenceum,  Howard  St.,  near 
Tremont  Row,  with  sittings  for  1,200 
persons,  occupies  the  site  of  the  Miilerite 
Tabernacle,  destroyed  by  fire. 

Theatre  Comiquc  (Old  "  Aquarial  Gar- 
den "),   240  Washington  Street. 

Contbiented  Theatre  (Whitman's), 
AVashington  Street. 

Morris  Brothers^  Opera  ITonse,  stands 
on  Waj-hington,  near  I^Idk  Street,  on 
what  was  once  the  Province  House 
Estate. 

Buiklry'^s  Screaadcrs,  Summer  Street, 
occupy  the  former  "Post-office  Building." 

Tremont  Theatre,  on  Tremont  Street, 
near  the  Common. 

Boston  Music  Hall,  erected  1852,  main 
entrance  on  Winter  Street  (Organ,  &c.) 
This  organ,  built  by  G.  F.  Welcker,  of 
Ludvt'igsburg,  Germany,  is  believed  to  be 
the  second  largest  instrument  in  the 
world.  The  elaborate  cabhict-work  is  by 
the  Brothers  Herter,  of  New  York.  The 
entire  cost  was  ^80,000. 

Bosto7i  Ailicnccum,  Beacon  Street  (Stat- 
uary and  Paintings). 

Horiiadiural  Hall,  on  Tremont  Street, 


iSTON.] 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


[Boston. 


1  beautiful  edifice  of  dressed  granite, 
ich  admired  for  its  classic  style  and 
•gant  proportions.  The  annual  exliibi- 
ns  of  the  "  Massachnsetts  Horticultural 
ciety  "  are  held  here. 
The  Rooms  of  the  Boston  Clies^  Club 
•i  in  Chauncey,  corner  Bedford.  Street ; 
en  every  week  day  and  evening. 
Fortifications,  etc. — The  harbor  of 
iston,  as  elsev/here  remarked,  is  among 
3  best  and  most  spacious  on  the  coast, 
d  to  the  summer  visitor  affords  one  of 
3  most  striking  features  of  the  city, 
.e  most  impoi'tant  and  noteworthy 
■tified  works  in  and  around  Boston 
i  to  be  seen  in  a  sail  up  or  down  the 
autiful  harbor.  They  are  Forts  Inde- 
idence^  on  Castle  Ishmd ;  Fort  Win- 
'Op,  on  Governor's  Island,  and  Fort 
'arren^  on  George's  Island.  Deer 
'^ouse  of  Industry,  etc.),  Long,  Rains- 
•d.  Spectacle,  Gallop,  and  Thomp- 
I's  Islands  are  also  passed.  A  visit  to 
'se  islands  and  defensive  works  consti- 
es  one  of  the  pleasantest  features  of 
3  summer  tourist's  experience  in 
ston. 

Bridges,  etc. — Seven  bridges,  most  of 
jm  free,  linlc  Cambridge,  Charlestown, 
elsea,  and  South  Boston  with  the  Pen- 
ula.  These  structures  are  among  the 
juliarities  of  the  place,  in  their  fashion, 
nr  number,  and  their  length.  The  first 
e  which  was  built  was  that  over  Charles 
fer  to  Charlestown,  1,503  feet  long, 
was  opened  for  travel,  June  17,  178(5. 
e  Old  Cambridge  Bridge,  across  the 
arles  River  to  Cambridge,  2,758  feet  in 
gth,  with  a  causeway  of  3,432  feet, 
s  completed,  1793.  The  South  Bodon 
idge,  which  leads  from  the  Neck  to 
uth  Boston,  is  1,550  ft.  long.  The  Canal 
idge,  between  Boston  and  East  Cam- 
dge,  is  2,796  feet,  and  from  East  Cam- 
dge  another  bridge  extends  1,820  feet. 
Prison  Point,  Charlestown.  Boston  Free 
idge  (Dover  Street)  to  South  Boston  is 
3  feet ;  and  Warren  Brddge  to  Charles- 
ra  is  1,390  feet.  Besides  these  bridges, 
causeway  of  a  mile  and  a  half  extends 
m  the  foot  of  Beacon  Street  to  Sewell's 
int,  in  Brookllne.  This  causeway  is  built 
'OSS  the  bay  upon  a  substantial  dam. 
ler  roads  lead  into  Boston  over  special 
dges,  connecting  the  city  with  the 
in  as  closely  as  if  it  were  a  part  there- 


of. Thus  the  topography  of  Boston  i3 
quite  anomalous  as  a  "  mountain  city  in 
the  sea." 

Wharves. — The  wharves  of  Boston 
are  among  the  finest  in  the  United  States, 
and  to  the  commercial  and  shipping  man 
are  worth  a  visit.  The  principal  arc, 
Long,  Central,  India,  and  Coinmercial 
Whaj-vcs. 

Steamers  for  the  several  eastern  ports 
leave  these  wharves  daily.  (See  "  Pack- 
ets," Boston  Directory,  p.  535.)  Steam- 
ers for  Halifax  and  Liverpool  leave  East 
Boston  every  alternate  Wednesday. 

The  Railway  Stations  in  Boston  are 
seven  in  number,  and  are  generally  acces- 
sible by  one  or  other  of  the  lines  of  street 
cars. 

Old  Colony  and  Newport,  on  Kneeland 
Street,  South  End. 

Worcester  (Hartford  and  Erie,  Woon- 
socket  Division),  corner  Beach  and  Lin- 
coln Streets,  South  End. 

Providence,  Pleasant  Street,  foot  of  the 
Common. 

Boston  and  Maine,  Haymarket  Square, 
end  of  Union  Street. 

Eastern,  Causeway  Street,  near  An- 
dover  Street. 

Fitchburg,  Causeway  Street  (near  ^Yar- 
ren  Bridge). 

Lowell,  Causeway  Street  (near  Lowell 
Street). 

The  American  Telegraph  Company 
have  bi'anch  offices  at  all  the  leading 
hotels  for  the  convenience  of  guests. 
Their  principal  office  in  Boston  is  at  88 
State  Street.  The  offices  of  the  Adams 
and  American  Express  Companies  are  in 
Court  Street.  The  principal  Banks, 
Brokers,  and  Insurance  Offices  are  in 
State  Street. 

Principal  Business  Houses. — Boston, 
as  the  chief  manufacturing  and  commer- 
cial city  of  New  England,  is  the  best 
point  from  which  to  select  and  purcliase 
outfits,  &c.,  for  travelling.  The  principal 
retail  business  houses  are  on  Washington 
Street. 

Clotiiino  and  Furnishing. — The  ex- 
tensive and  well-known  house  of  Macullar, 
WilUams  &  Parker,  No.  194  Washington 
Street,  is  one  of  the  best  in  New  England. 
Their  stock  of  ready-made  and  custom 
clothing  is  such  that  they  are  able  to  fill 
any  order   at    short   notice.     i^Ir.   J.   C 

89 


Boston.] 


MASSACnuSETTJ 


[Boston, 


Chaffin,  at  No.  1S6,  has  an  excellent  as- 
sortment of  furnishing  goods. 

Jewelry,  etc. — Those  desirous  of  mak- 
ing purchases  of  jewelry,  watches,  or  ar- 
ticles of  virtu,  will  find  one  of  the  richest 
and  best-selected  stocks  at  the  store  of 
Messrs.  Bigelow  Brothers  k  Kennard, 
No.  219  "Washington  Street.  Their  store 
is  well  stocked,  and  their  goods  are  all 
warranted  of  the  best  quality. 

Fine  Arts,  etc. — The  Studio  Bidldiyiri 
is  at  the  corner  of  Tremont  and  Bromfield 
Streets.  No  stranger  should  leave  Bos- 
ton without  visiting  the  picture  gallery 
of  Williams  &  Everett,  No.  234  Wash- 
ington Street. 

The  rooms  for  the  exhibition  and  sale 
of  the  well-known  Chickering  pianos  are 
at  246  Washinirton  Street. 

Among  the  book  publishing  and  selling 
houses  for  wliich  Boston  is  famous,  that 
of  Messrs.  Ticknor  &  Fields,  124  Tremont 
Street,  near  the  Common,  will  perhaps 
best  repay  a  visit.  It  is  tastefully  fitted 
up,  and  well  stocked  witli  choice  books. 
E.  r.  Button  and  Co.,  Theological  and 
Miscellaneous  Book  Publisliers,  occu- 
py No.  135  Washington,  corner  School 
Street,  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  fre- 
quented book-stands  in  Boston.  Little, 
Brown  and  Co.,  No.  110,  and  Lee  and 
Shepard,  No.  149,  Washington  Street,  are 
extensive  pubhshers  and  book-dealers. 
The  publication  office  of  the  Journal  is 
at  120  Washington  Street ;  of  the  Fosi,  at 
42  Congress,  and  of  the  Transcript,  at 
92  Washington  Street. 

NnBiastt. — This  once  fashionable 
and  still  pleasant  watering-place,  is  situat- 
ed about  12  miles  from  Boston,  by  water, 
and  14  by  land.  (See  Lynx.)  During  the 
summer  season,  a  steamboat  plies  daily. 
(Fare,  25  cents.)  This  is  a  most  agree- 
able excursion,  affording  an  opportunity, 
in  passing  through  the  harbor,"  for  seeing 
some  of  the  many  beautiful  islands  with 
which  it  is  studded.  Tlie  peninsula  is 
divided  into  Great  and  Little  Nahant,  and 
Bass  Neck.  On  the  south  side  of  (ircat 
Nahant  is  the  dark  cave  or  grotto,  called 
the  Smallov'^H  Cave,  10  feet  wide,  5 
liigh,  and  TO  long,  increasing  in  a  short 
distance,  to  14  feet  in  breadth,  and  18  or 
20  in  height.  On  the  north  shore  of  the 
peninsula  is  a  chasm  20  or  30  feet  in 
depth,  called  Spoitting  Horn,  into  which, 
90 


at  about  half  tide,  the  water  rushes  with 
great  violence  and  noise,  forcing  a  jet  of 
water  through  an  aperture  in  the  rock  to 
a  considerable  height  in  the  air.  Castle  and 
Pulpit  Pocks  and  Ireneh  Grotto,  are  visit- 
ed by  tourists. 

Copp/s  HW,  near  the  Fitchburg  Depot, 
is  frequently  ^^sited.  In  the  burying- 
ground  is  the  vault  of  the  Mather  family. 
Roxbury,  2  miles,  and  Jamaica  Plain,  3^ 
miles,  are  pleasant  places  on  the  Provi- 
dence Railway.  Loncjwood  and  BroolTme 
are  pleasant  residence  spots,  between  3 
and  4  miles  on  the  road  to  Worcester. 
Sharon,  17-i-  miles,  occupies  the  highest 
land  between  Boston  and  Providence. 
Mr,  Cu^hing^s  Garden,  a  place  of 
great  beauty,  is  a  short  distance  be- 
yond Mount  Auburn,  in  Watertown. 
Tickets  may  be  obtained,  gratis,  on  appli- 
cation at  the  Horticultural  Hall,  on  Tre- 
mont Street.  Fresh  Fond,  another  charm- 
ing place  of  resort,  is  about  four  miles  from 
Boston,  and  about  half  a  mile  from  Mount 
Auburn.  The  other  sheets  of  water  in 
the  vicinity  of  Boston,  Avorthy  of  the  at- 
tention of  visitors,  are  Horn,  Spot,  Spy, 
and  Mjt/stic  Fonds. 

FhilUp^s  Beach,  a  short  distance  north- 
east of  Nahant,  is  another  beauliful 
beach,  and  a  noted  resort  for  persons  in 
search  of  pleasure  or  health. 

Faint  Shirlei/,  five  miles  from  Boston, 
affords  a  pleasant  drive.  The  most  direct 
route  is  via  the  East  Boston  FeiTy.  Ex- 
cellent fish  and  game  dinners  and  suppers 
are  obtained  here.  {Taft's  Hotel.) 

Brighton,  a  station  on  the  Worcester 
Railway,  5  miles  west  of  the  city,  is  fa- 
mous for  its  cattle  market. 

]S\iniasket  JBeach,  12  miles  from  Boston, 
is  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  penin- 
sula of  Nantasket,  which  forms  the  south- 
cast  side  of  Boston  Harbor.  The  beach, 
which  is  remarkable  ibr  its  creat  beautv, 
is  four  miles  in  length,  and  celebrated 
for  its  fine  shell-fish,  sea-fowl,  and  good 
bathing. 

Chelsea  Beach,  al)Out  three  miles  in 
length,  is  situated  in  the  town  of  Chelsea, 
and  is  another  fine  place  of  resort,  with 
good  accommodation  for  visitors.  A  ride 
along  this  beach  on  a  warm  day  is  de- 
lightful. It  is  about  five  miles  from  Bos- 
ton, and  may  be  reached  through  Charles- 
town  over  Chelsea  Bridge.     Swampscoti 


Plymouth,] 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


[BniDGEWATEU. 


and  'FhiUips's  Beach  may  be  reached  on 
the  same  road.     (See  IIoute  IV.) 


BOSTON 


liOITTE  I, 

TO    PLYMOUTH,    JV^^IF  BED- 
FOJiJ),  ETC. 


{Via  Old  Colon?/  and  Newport Itailway^ 

Stations. — Harrison  Square,  4  miles ; 
Neponset,  2  ;  Quincy,  8  ;  Braiutreo,  10 ; 
Soulii  Braintree,  12;  Randolph,  15;  East 
Stoughton,  1*7;  North  Bridge  water,  20; 
Campello,  22  ;  Keith's,  24  ;  E.\t  W.  BVat- 
er,  25  ;  Bridgewater,  27  ;  Titicut,  31  ;  Mid- 
dleboro,  35 ;  Lakeville,  37  ;  Myrick's,  42  ; 
Assonet,  45  ;  Fall  Ixiver,  54 ;  Newport, 
72.  Steamboat  to  New  York.  (The 
short  line,  via  Taunton,  is  07  miles.) 

Savin  Hill,  Harrison  Square^  and  Ke- 
2')onset,  form  part  of  the  town  of  Dor- 
chester, and  each  command  a  fine  view  of 
Boston  Harbor,  Forts  Winthrop  and  In- 
dependence, the  city  buildings  on  Deer 
Island,  and  Dorchester  Heights.  A  por- 
tion of  the  breastworks  still  remain. 

<[|siiiacy  (8  miles),  is  celebrated 
as  the  birthplace  of  John  Hancock, 
Presidents  Jolm  and  John  Quincy  Adams, 
and  Josiiih  Quincy,  Jr.  A  marble  monu- 
ment to  the  memory  of  John  Adams  and 
his  wife,  stands  in  the  stone  church,  built 
in  1828.  The  granite  qunrries  in  the 
iieigliborhood  are  among  the  most  ex- 
tensive in  the  United  States. 

Braintree  and  South  Braintree  are 
manufacturing  towns.  The  former  is  the 
point  of  departure  for  Hingham  and  Co- 
hassct,  the  latter  for  Plymouth.  Express 
(steamboat)  trains  for  New  York,  over 
this  road,  now  take  the  short  line  from 
South  Braintree  for  Newport,  via  Taunton 
and  Somerset. 

Hingham  is  17  miles  from  Boston,  by 
the  South  Shore  Railway,  or  it  may  be 
reached  by  a  pleasant  sail  down  the  bay. 
Coha^.sett,  four  miles  from  Hingham 
[South  Shore  Railway),  is  a  popular  sea- 
side resort.  Stages  to  Scituate  and  Scit- 
uate  Harbor. 

Marshfield,  interesting  as  the  home  of 
Daniel  Webster,  is  on  Massachusetts  Bay, 
28  miles  southeast  of  Boston  [South  Shore 
Railway). 

l*iyMa©iitSi. — Hotel,  the  Samoset 


House.  Plymouth  is  2G  miles  from  South 
Braintree,  and  37  miles  from  Boston.  It 
is  a  spot  of  especial  interest,  as  the  land- 
ing-place of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers,  and  as 
the  oldest  town  in  New  England.  Bly- 
mouth  Rock  lies  at  the  head  of  lledge'8 
Wharf.  It  is  now  much  reduced  from  its 
ancient  proportions,  being  only  six  and  a 
half  feet  across  its  greatest  breadth,  and 
but  four  feet  thick.  The  surface  only  is 
visible  above  the  ground.  The  landing 
of  the  Pilgrims  from  the  Mayflower  oc- 
curred on  the  22d  December,  1620.  Fil- 
grints'  Hall,  erected  in  1824-5,  is  worth 
visiting.  The  Hollis  Institute^  incorpo- 
rated 1851,  is  located  here. 

Randolph  and  Stoughton,  are  famous  for 
their  manufacture  of  boots  and  shoes. 

ISridg'e^vsalei'  (27  miles)  is  an 
ancient  town.  The  site  was  granted  as  a 
plantation  to  the  town  of  Dusbury  in 
1642.  It  was  then  called  "  Saughtuch- 
quett"  (Satucket),  and  was  sold  (1645) 
to  Captain  Miles  Standish  by  "  Onsame- 
gum,"  chief  of  the  "Wampanoag  Indians. 
The  Bridgewater  B'onwornS  are  among 
the  largest  on  the  continent.  They  con- 
sume 10,000  tons  of  iron  annually,  and 
employ  about  000  men.  The  manufac- 
ture of  small-arms  in  New  England  v/as 
commenced  here.  A  branch  road  runs 
seven  miles  to  South  Ahingion. 

Ml«lftilel>oi°©  (35  miles)  is  a  pros- 
perous town  pleasantly  situated  upon  the 
Taunton  PJver.  It  is  the  scat  of  a  very 
popular  scholastic  institution.  Here  the 
Cape  Cod  and  Taunton  branches  leave 
the  main  line.  The  Fairhaven  branch 
also  diverges  for  Mattapoisett  and  New 
Bedford,  61  miles. 

Cape  Cod.  saiaul  tlie  Sea  Ssl- 
aiad-S. — Those  who  delight  in  the  sea 
breezes  and  scenery,  in  salt  water  bathing 
and  fishing,  will  find  ample  gratification 
everywhere  upon  the  Atlantic  borders, 
and  especially  upon  the  bold,  islanded 
coast  of  New  England.  Besides  the  well- 
known  haunts  of  the  Long  Island  and  the 
Jersey  shores,  of  Nev/port,  and  of  the 
numerous  suburban  resorts  of  Boston,  to 
which  we  have  elsewhere  alluded,  the 
Isle  of  Shoals,  off"  Portsmouth,  Martha's 
Vineyard,  and  Nantucket,  olf  New  Bed- 
ford, etc.,  we  connnend  the  summer 
wanderer  to  a  tour  through  the  towns  and 
villages,  and  along  the  coasts  of  that  very 

91 


Fall  River.] 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


[Cambridge. 


secluded  portion  of  Massachusetts — Cape 
Cod.  Let  him  journey  from  " Plymouth 
Rock,"  the  inner  point,  to  Frovincetovrn, 
the  outer  verge,  and  he  will  find  novelties 
in  both  physical  nature  and  social  life, 
which  will  more  than  compensate  for  the 
labor  of  reaching  them.  The  Cape  Cod 
Railway  extends  along  the  Cape  (see 
MiDDLEBORo),  49  milcs  to  Wareham ;  74 
to  Barnstable  ;  YG  to  Yarmouth  ;  and  79 
to  Ilyannis ;  or  the  tourist  may  go  thence 
by  steamboat,  and  co.utinue  from  point  to 
point  by  stage.  MyviclS's  (42  miles)  is 
the  point  of'  departure  ibr  New  Bedford 
and  Taunton. 

'S'aiiiitoii. — Hotel,  City.  Taun- 
ton, settled  in  1639,  is  a  beautiful  tov.'u, 
of  some  17,000  inhabitants,  situated  at 
the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Taunton 
River.  It  may  be  reached  from  Boston, 
35  miles ;  and  from  Providence,  80  miles, 
by  the  Boston  and  Providence  Railroad 
(New  Bedford  and  Taunton  branch,  via 
Mansfield j.  Taunton  G-reen  is  a  pleasant 
public  ground  in  the  centre  of  the  town. 
Mount  Pleasant  Cemetery  and  the  Sia'e 
Lunatic  Asylum^  opened  1854,  arc  worth 
visiting. 

r^^c\T  15c«liOi*fcl. — This  is  a  charm- 
ing maritime  city,  of  some  22,000  people, 
situated  on  an  estuary  of  Buzzard's  Bay. 
It  is  famous  for  its  whale  fisheries,  in 
which  enterprise  it  employs  between  300 
and  400  ships.  New  Bedford  is  the  ter- 
minus of  the  New  Bedford  and  Taunton 
Railway^  by  which  route,  via  Mansfield, 
on  tlie  Boston  aud  Providence  road,  it 
may  be  reached  from  those  two  cities.  It 
is  accessible  also  from  New  York  and 
Boston,  via  Myrick's  on  the  Old  Colony 
ton,  Newport  route.  Distance  from  Bos- 
and  55  milcs.  The  City  Hall  and  the 
Fort  (Chirk's  Point)  shouhl  be  seen. 

N;aiatBacli<'4.  —  Tliese  famous  sea- 
islands  lie  oil'  New  Bedford,  with  which 
port  they  are  in  daily  steamboat  com- 
munication. NantucUct  may  be  still 
more  easily  reached  via  Cape  Cod  Rail- 
way to  Ilyamiis, 

J«»©iiicr«et,  has  extensive  ironworks 
ami  potteries.  Population,  2,000.  Here 
intersects  the  iJiyldon  and  Somerset 
Railroad^  nov/  used  by  express  trains  be- 
tween Boston  aud  New  York. 

l''ull  liivcr  (54  miles). — Hotel, 
92 


Richardson  House.  Fall  River  is  a  thriv- 
ing town  of  nearly  18,0()0  inhabitants,  and 
has  very  extensive  manufactures.  It  is 
at  the  entrance  of  Taunton  River  into 
Mount  Hope  Bay,  an  arm  of  the  Narra- 
ganset.  The  historic  eminence  of  Jioiint 
Hojje,  the  home  of  King  Philij),  is  admi- 
rably seen  across  the  bay.  Steamboat 
"  Durfee,"  from  Fall  River  to  Providence, 
daily. 

Tiverton^  the  next  station,  has  fine 
bathing,  fishing,  etc.  A  bridge  across 
the  Seconet  River,  or  East  Channel,  con- 
nects this  place  with  Rhode  Island.  The 
view  from  "  Tiverton  Heights  "  of  Narra- 
ganset  Bay  and  islands  is  very  fine. 

Portsmouth  Grove  is  a  pleasant  picnic 
resort  for  parties  from  Providence,  Fall 
River,  and  Newport.  The  Army  Hospital 
is  extensive. 

I^'ewpoi't. — (See  Index.) 

MOUTE  II. 

BOSTON    TO      WO nC ESTER    AKD 
SPni^GFIELD. 

{Via   Boston   and   Worcester   and   WesteTvi 
Jiailicai/s.) 

Stations. — Boston,  Cambridge  Cross- 
ing, 4. J  miles;  Brighton,  5;  N.  Corner, 
6;*;  Newtonville,  8;  West  Newton,  9; 
Auburndale,  10^  ;  Lower  Falls  (Branch), 
12;  Grantville,  13^;  Wellesley,  14;^; 
Natick,  17.V;  Saxonville  (Branch),  21'.; 
Framingham,  21.',;  Ashland,  24;  Corda- 
ville,  27 ;  Southboro',  28 ;  AVcstboro', 
32 ;  Grafton,  37f  ;  Millbury  (Branch), 
42 i ;  Worcester,  Lower  Station,  44; 
Worcester,  44^ ;  Worcester  Junction, 
42  ;  Clappville,  63  ;  Charlton,  57 ;  Spen- 
cer, G5 ;  East  Brookfield,  64 ;  Brook- 
field,  G7;  West  Brookfield,  G9 ;  War- 
ren, 73  ;  Brimficld,  79  ;  l*almer,  83  ; 
Wilbraham,  89 ;  Indian  Orchard,  92 ; 
Sptingfield,  98  ;  West  Sprin-field,  100; 
Westficld,  108;  Russell,  ilO;  Hun- 
tington, 119;  Chester,  120;  Middlefield, 
131;  Becket,  135;  Washington,  138; 
Hinsdale,  143;  Dalton,  14G ;  Pittsfield, 
151. 

CaiBalm-iilg'o.  —  Harvard  Univer- 
sity Bitildinys,  Longfellow's  residence, 
Washington's  headipiarlers,  and  the 
Wasliin.;ton  elm,  should  be  visited.  (See 
Boston  and  Vicinity.) 


WORCESTEIl.] 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


[Springfield. 


152'ig'3atoBa  {  5  miles)  is  a  beauti- 
ful suburljau  town,  on  the  south  side  of 
Charles  River.  It  is  noted  as  a  cattle 
market  Winship\s  Garden. 

W  n'  la  isa  i  sa  g*  la  ss,  lai,  in  Middlesex 
County,  has  several  flourishing  schools. 
(Sec  Long  Ponp).  From  /Saxonville,  on 
the  Concord  lUver,  a  branch  road  ex- 
tends to  Milford  and  Marlboro. 

Grafton  (38  miles)  is  a  flourishing- 
town  in  Worcester  County. 

^Yoi'ecstci*. — Hotels,  the  Lincoln 
House^  the  Bay  State  Ilonse. 

Worcester  is  a  flourishing  city,  45  miles 
from  licston,  in  the  centre  of  one  of  the 
most  productive  agricultural  regions  of 
Massachusetts.  It  was  settled  in  1713, 
and  incorporated  in  1848.  It  is  noted  for 
its  schools  and  manufactures.  Quite  a 
network  of  railways  connects  the  city 
with  all  parts  of  the  country — the  West- 
ern  road,  direct  from  Boston  to  Alljany  ; 
the  Worcester  and  Nashua,  communica- 
ting through  other  routes  with  the  St. 
Lawrence  River  ;  the  Worcester  and  Prov- 
idence; the  Norwich  and  Worcester  ;  and 
the  Boston  and  Worcester,  which  we  now 
follow  to  the  end  of  our  present  journey. 
TheAmerica7iAntiqua7'ian  Society,  found- 
ed (1812)  by  Isaiah  Thomas,  has  a  fine 
building  in  the  Italian  style.  The  library, 
of  35,000  volumes,  contains  som.e  rare 
works.  The  Public  Library,  established 
in  1859,  has  a  library  of  23,000  volumes. 
Mechanics''  Hall  has  a  fine  organ,  and  seats 
for  2,500.  The  Stcde  Btmafic  Asj/lum, 
established  in  1832,  and  the  Oread  Insii- 
iute,  are  prominent  edifices.  A  fire  in 
1854  swept  away  a  considerable  portion 
of  the  city.  The  population  now  num- 
bers over  26,000,  and  is  rapidly  increas- 

IS  p  I*  i  sa  g"  £i  ©  1  €i, — Hotel,  3Iassa- 
soit  House,  a  well-kept  and  justly  popular 
establishment. 

Springfield  is  upon  the  Connecticut 
River,  28  miles  north  of  Hartford,  98 
miles  from  Boston,  and  138  from  New 
York.  The  appronch  h j  the  New  Haven 
and  Hartford  liailway  up  the  bank  of 
the  Connecticut  affords  a  line  view  of  the 
city.  It  was  settled,  1635,  under  its  In- 
dian name  of  Agawam,  which  v/as  change<l 
in  1640  to  its  present  name.  The  U.  S. 
Arsenal,  located  here,  is  the  largest  in  the 
Union.     It  is   charmingly  perched  upon 


Arsenal  Hill,  looking  down  upon  the  beau- 
tiful town,  the  river,  and  the  fruitful  val- 
ley. This  noble  panorama  is  seen  with 
still  better  elfect  from  the  cupola  winch 
crowns  one  of  the  arsenal  buildings.  This 
establishment  employs  nearly  800  hands, 
and  1*75,000  stand  of  arms  are  kept  con- 
stantly on  hand.  Upward  of  $12,000,000 
were  paid  out  for  the  construction  of  arms 
here  during  the  rebellion.  The  lines 
composed  by  Longfellow,  while  on  a  visit 
to  the  arsenal,  will  recur  to  the  mind  of 

the  visitor : 

'» 

"  This  is  lliG  arsenal.  From  floor  to  ceiling:, 

Lilce  a  huge  organ,  rise  the  burnished  arms  ; 
But   from    their  silent   mouths  no  anthem 
pealing 
Startles  the  villagers  with  strange  alarms.'' 

This  is  a  famous  gathering-point  of  rail- 
roads. The  Connecticut  valley  route  starts 
hence,  and  furnishes  one  of  the  ])leasant- 
est  lines  of  travel  from  New  York  to  the 
White  Mountains,  through  Northampton, 
Brattleboro,  Bellows  Falls,  to  Wells 
River  and  Littleton,  N.  H.  (See  Connecti- 
cut Valley,  etc.,  and  White  Mountain 
Routes,  No.  VII.)  The  Western  Raihrny, 
from  Albany  to  Boston,  passes  through 
Springfield  also,  and  continues  our  present 
route  to  Worcester.  Springfield  was  in- 
corporated as  a  town  in  1646,  and  as  a  city 
in  1852.  Population,  31,000.  The  Ceme- 
tery, on  Maple  Street,  Hampden  Park,  and 
Long  Hill,  afford  pleasant  rides  or  walks. 
Briyhlwood,  the  residence  of  Dr.  Holland, 
the  author,  is  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Springfield. 

Wcstfcld,  10  miles  west  of  Springfield, 
is  delightfully  situated  on  the  river  of  that 
name,  and  surrounded  by  pretty  hills.  It 
is  the  seat  of  a  flourishing  academy,  in- 
corporated in  1793. 

Pitts  field.  (See  Index.) 


MOUTE  III. 

BOSTON  TO   WOBUnN,  LOWELL,  AND 
NA.SHUA. 

( Via    Boston  and  IjOivdl,  and  Branch 
liailicaijs.) 

Stations. — East  Cambridge,  0  ;  West 
Medford,  5  miles  ;  Winchester,  8 ;  East 
Woburn,    10 ;  Woburn    ^V^atering-place, 

93 


Lowell.] 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


[Lynn. 


10 ;  North  Woburn,  12 ;  Wilmington,  15 ; 
Biilerica  and  Tewksbury,  19 ;  North  Bi!- 
lerica,  22 ;  Blcachevy,  LoavcII,  2G  ;  Mid- 
dlesex, 2 '7 ;  North  Cheiiiisfovd,  29  ;  Tyngs- 
boro',  32  ;  Little's,  35 ;  Nashua,  39  ;  South 
Merrimac,  45  ;  Danforth's,  48  ;  Milford, 
51;  Wilton,  55. 

Fad  Cambridge  (two  miles)  has  large 
glass-works.  It  is  connected  with  Bos- 
ton by  Canal  Bridge.     (See  Camckidge.) 

Somcrvillc  (three  miles),  on  the  ilystic 
River  and  Millei^'s  Creek,  has  several  ob- 
jects of  interest.  The  McLean  Insane 
Asylum^  near  Easf  Cambridge,  is  worth 
visiting.  Prospect  and  Winter  Hills^  with 
their  Revolutionary  memories,  are  in  the 
neighborhood. 

Mc'iford  (five  miles),  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  Mystic  River,  has  lai-gc 
ship-yards.  Medford  Church  was  long 
presided  over  by  the  late  Rev.  John  Pier- 
pont,  the  poet. 

Winches/er  (eight  miles)  is  a  suburban 
summer  residence  for  Boston  merchants. 
It  was  formed  from  Woburn,  Medford, 
and  West  Cambridge,  and  incorporated 
in  1850.  Branch  to  Woburn  (Horn  Pond), 
two  miles. 

Wohurn  (Centre)  is  pleasantly  situated 
on  elevated  ground.  Benjamin  Thomp- 
son (Count  Rumford),  the  inventor,  was 
born  here,  March  2G,  1753. 

B^o>vell. — Hotels,  the  Wasldngton 
and  Merrirnac. 

This  famous  manufacturing  city,  the 
first  in  the  Union,  is  upon  the  south  side 
of  the  Merrimac,  at  its  junction  with 
Concord  River,  26  miles  from  Boston. 
The  Pawtucket  Falls,  the  source  of  the 
city's  prosperity  and  wealth,  have  a  de- 
scent of  33  feet.  Lowell,  named  after 
Francis  C.  Lowell,  of  Boston,  was  incorpo- 
rated as  a  town  in  1826,  and  in  1865  its 
population  was  35,000.  There  are  over 
50  mills  in  operation  in  Lowell,  em})loy- 
ing  a  capital  of  $13,900,000,  and  nearly 
13,000  hands,  of  whom  about  9,000  are 
females.  The  lUerhanics''  Association,  has 
a  library  of  10,000  volumes.  A  monument 
to  Ladd  and  Whitney,  of  the  Sixth  Mas- 
sacliusetts  regiment,  killed  in  Baltimore, 
April  19,  1861,  standd  in  the  public 
square. 

I\;islai!»,    an   important    manufac- 
turing town,  13  miles  north  of  Lawrence, 
and    39  from  Boston,  is  situated  at  the 
94 


confluence  of  the  Nashua  and  Merrimac 
Rivers,  in  the  adjoining  State  of  New 
Hampshire.  The  Nashua  River  has  a  fall 
of  65  feet  in  two  miles  at  this  place.  It 
is  connected  by  rail  with  Concord,  Lowell, 
Vv^orcester,  Lawrence,  and  Wilton.  (For 
continuation  of  this  route,  via  Mancl-.ester 
and  Concord,  to  the  White  Mountains, 
see  Routes  in  New  Hampshire.) 


HOUTB  IF. 

BOSTON'  TO  LYN^N^,  SALEM,  KEWBURY- 
PORT,  AND  PORTLAND. 

(  Via  Eastern  Railway.') 

Stations.  —  Boston,  Som.erville,  2 
miles;  South  Maiden (Saugus  Branch),  3  ; 
Chelsea,  4  ;  North  Chelsea,  6  ;  West  Lynn, 
10;  Lynn,  11;  Swampscott,  12;  Salem 
16;  Beverly,  18;  North  Beverly,  20; 
Wenham,  22  ;  Ipswich,  27  ;  Rowley 
(Amesbury  Branch),  31  ;  Newburyport, 
36  ;  East  Salisbury,  38 ;  Seabrook,  42  ; 
Hampton  Falls,  43  ;  Hampton,  46 ;  North 
Hampton,  49 ;  Greenland,  51  ;  Ports- 
mouth, 56  ;  Portland,  108. 

CSii^ls^oa  is  one  of  the  pleasantest 
of  the  Boston  subiu'ban  towns.  The  Naial 
Hospital^  Marine  Hospitcd,  and  7hwn 
Hall  arc  prominent  buildings.  Poioder- 
Ilorn  Hill  and  Mount  BelVmgliam  com- 
mand fine  views.  Population,  14,0U0. 
Woodlawn  Cemetery  is  two  miles  beyond. 

Hi  y  11  la  •  —  Hotel,  the  Sagamore 
Hotbse. 

Lyim,  11  miles  from  Boston,  on  the 
Eastern  Railroad,  is  also  reached  by  the 
Saugus  Branch  several  times  daily ;  dis- 
tance, 12  miles.  It  is  charminclv  situ- 
ated  on  the  northeast  shore  of  Massa- 
cliusetts  Bay,  and  is  a  famous  place  for 
the  manufiicture  of  ladies'  shoes.  This 
business  employs  150  establishments  and 
10,000  hands,  half  of  whom  are  females. 
It  is  estimated  that  4,500,000  pairs  of 
ladies'  and  misses'  shoes  are  made  here 
every  year.  Besides  the  product  of  the 
city,  another  half  million  pairs  are 
made  in  the  neighborhood.  The  New 
Citi/  Hall,  on  the  Common,  corner  of  Mar- 
ket and  Essex  Streets,  is  an  imposing  and 
spacious  edifice,  with  a  fine  tower.  It  is 
of  pressed  brick,  faced  with  Connecticut 
freestone.     Stages  two  miles  to  Nahant. 


Salem.] 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


[Laavi;e^;ce. 


Svmmpscoit  has  a  fine  beach  for  sea- 
bathini!;. 

^laieisa  (16  miles)  extends  about  two 
miles  along  and  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
across  the  peninsula  formed  by  the  North 
and  the  South  Rivers,  It  was  settled  in 
162 9- '30,  and  is,  next  to  riymouth,  the 
oldest  town  in  New  England.  Salem  was 
the  chief  scene  of  the  "  witchcraft  "  m.ad- 
ness  in  1692.  Upon  Gallows  Hill,  a  fine 
eminence  overlooking  the  city,  19  persons 
of  the  town  and  neighborhood  were  ex- 
ecuted for  this  supposed  crime.  Salem 
is  also  distinguished  fur  its  services  in  the 
war  of  the  Kevolution.  The  Cit}/  Hall, 
erected  in  1837,  the  Museum  (  E.  I. 
Marfne  Society),  Court-house,  and  i^ublic 
ground,  are  the  most  noteworthy  objects. 
Chestnut  Street  is  a  handsome  promenade. 
Branch  road  21  miles  to  Lawrence  Junc- 
tion of  JEssex,  South  Reading  and  Salem 
and  Loioell  Redlways.  Marhlchead  is  four 
miles  from  Salem,  by  a  branch  road. 

IBeTerly  (18  miles)  is  upon  an  arm 
of  Ann  Harbor,  two  miles  from  Salem, 
with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  bridge  of 
1,500  feet,  built  in  1*788.  Gloucester 
Branch  to  Rockport,  18  miles. 

"^V  e  Bt  la  a  Bsa  (22  miles).  Wenham 
Pond,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  about  a 
nnle  square,  affords  abundance  of  excel- 
lent fish,  and  is  much  visited  by  persons 
fond  of  angling.  It  is  also  noted  for  the 
quality  and  quantity  of  its  ice,  a  large 
amount  of  which  is  yearly  exported. 

Ipsioich  (27  miles),  is  on  Ipswich  River, 
four  miles  from  the  sea.  Incorporated 
in  1634.  The  vicinity  is  noted  for  its 
hay  crops. 

r^'  e  w  1>  11  a*  y  p  ©  a' t , — Hotel,  the 
3Icrrimac  House. 

Newburyport  (36  miles)  lies  on  a  gentle 
acclivity,  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Mer- 
rimac  River,  near  its  imion  with  the  At- 
lantic. It  is  considered  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  towns  in  New  England.  In  con- 
sequence of  a  sand-bar  at  the  mouth  of 
the  harbor,  its  commerce  has  greatly  de- 
clined. The  celebrated  George  Whitefield 
died  in  this  town,  September,  1770. 
Branch  to  Georgetown  and  Bradford. 
(See  Route  V.) 

Salishiri/  Beach,  celebrated  for  its 
beauty  and  salubrity,  is  much  visited 
during  the  warm  season.  It  is  four  miles 
distant  from  Newburyport. 


Seabroolc,  New  Hampshire  (42  miles), 
is  nofed  for  its  building  of  whale-boats. 
(See  New  Hamfshire.) 


MOUTE  r, 

TO  READING,  AND  OVER.  LAWRENCE 
AND  HA  VERIIILL. 

(  Via  Boston  and  Maine  Railway). 

Stations.  —  Boston,  Maiden,  5  miles ; 
Melrose,  7  ;  South  Reading  Junction,  9  ; 
South  Reading,  10;  Reading,  12;  Wil- 
mington, 15;  Wilmington  Junction,  18; 
Ballard  vale,  21  ;  Andover,  23  ;  South 
Lawrence,  26;  North  Lawi-ence,  27; 
North  Andover,  28;  Bradford,  32; 
Haverhill,  33  ;  Atkinson,  37 ;  Plaistow, 
38 ;  Newton,  41 ;  East  Kingston  Depot, 
45  ;  Exeter,  50 ;  South  Newmiarket,  54 ; 
Newmarket  Junction,  55  ;  Newmarket,  57  ; 
Durham,  62  ;  Madbury,  65  ;  Dover,  68  ; 
Roliinsford,  71 ;  Great  Falls,  74  ;  Salmon 
Falls,  72  ;  South  Berwick  Junction,  74  ; 
Portland,  111. 

Somerville  (2  miles). 

Medford  (5  miles),  delightful  summer 
residence ;    eight   trains   daily. 

Melrose  (7  miles)  has  pretty  drives  in 
the  neiirhborhood. 

liesiiliBig'  (12  miles),  in  Middlesex 
County,  is  principally  famous  for  its 
manufacture  of  boots,  etc. 

Wilmington  (15  miles),  famous  for  its 
hops. 

Andover  (23  miles)  is  pleasantly  sit- 
uated on  the  south  bank  of  the  Merri- 
mac  River.  It  was  incorporated  1646, 
and  is  the  seat  of  FhilHps^s  Academy, 
founded  1778,  and  of  the  Andover  Theo- 
logical Seminary,  founded  1807.  The 
latter  commands  a  fine  view.  It  has  a 
library  of  25,000  volumes.  The  Abbott 
Femcile  Academy  was  instituted  in  1829. 
North  Aiidover  station  and  village  are 
five  miles  farther  up  the  railway. 

Ej  a,  "w  !•  e  la  c  c  (26  miles),  13 
miles  from  Lowell,  lies  on  both  sides 
of  the  Merrimac  River.  It  has  ex- 
tensive manufactures,  and  is  connected 
with  Manchester  and  Salem  by  rail. 
By  means  of  a  dam  across  the  Merri- 
mac River,  erected  1845,  a  fail  of  28 
feet  is  obtained  for  manufacturing  pur- 
poses.    It  was  incorporated  in  1845,  and 

95 


Haverhill.] 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


[FiTCHBURG. 


now  contains  23,000  inhabitants.  The 
Common,  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  com- 
prises 17  acres.  The  C'dif  Hall  is  a 
handsome  edifice.  The  Oliver  School, 
in  the  immediate  vicinity,  and  the  leading 
mills,  are  well  worth  visiting.  The  prin- 
cipal building  of  the  Pacific  Mills  is  800 
feet  long  aud  seven  stories  high  ;  3,500 
operatives  are  employed.  A  library  of 
3,400  volumes  is  sustained  by  the  op- 
eratives for  their  own  use.  Trains  to 
Lowell  (13  miles),  four  times  daily. 

Bradford  (32  miles)  has  a  flourishing 
academy. 

IliEverliiil,  with  which  Bradford  is 
connected  by  bridge,  680  feet  long,  across 
the  Merrimac  River,  has  several  flourish- 
ing educational  institutions,  and  two  fine 
churches.  It  was  settled  in  IGIO,  in- 
corporated 1645,  and  has  a  population  of 
8,000.  Branch  to  Georgetown  aud  New- 
buryport. 

Georgetown,  in  Essex  County,  is  29 
miles  due  north  of  Boston.  The  Me- 
morial Church,  erected  ]866-'6'7  by 
George  Peabody,  from  a  design  by  Bryant 
and  (iilman,  and  by  him  presented  to 
the  town,  is  worth  seeing.  (For  continu- 
ation of  I'oute,  see  New  Hampshire,  and 
Routes  from  Portland,  Maine.) 


nouTE  ri. 

BOSTON  TO  WALTTTAM,    LEXINGTON, 
COXCORD,  AND  FITCHBURG. 

(  Via  FUchhurg  Railway,  and  Branches.) 

Stations. — Boston,  Charlestown,  1 
mile ;  Porter's,  3  ;  Belmont,  6  ;  Waltham, 
10;  Lincoln,  17;  Concord,  20;  South 
Acton,  25  ;  Littleton,  31 ;  Groton  Junction, 
35  ;  Shirley,  40 ;  Leominster,  46 ;  Fitch- 
biu-g,  50. 

Charlestown  (one  mile),  Bunker  Hill 
Monument,  Navij  Yard,  and  State  Frkon 
(fee).  Populatioii,  27,000.  (See  Boston 
and  Vicinity.) 

West  Cttinbridr/e  (also  street  cars), 
Fresh  and  Sp}/  Ponds,  Trotting  ParJc,  etc. 

_^Vs«ioi*lo\vBi,  on  Charles  River 
(eight  miles  by  branch  road),  has  a 
United  States  Arsenal  covering  40  acres, 
and  several  factories.  (See  Mount  Au- 
burn and  Mr.  Cushing's  (Jarden.) 

Wallha)n  (ten  miles),  on  Charles 
90 


River,  has  an  extensive  manufactory  of 
watches.  Prospect  Hill,  500  feet  high, 
commands  a  fine  view. 

Lexington. — Lexington,  the  scene  of 
the  memorable  battle  of  Lexington,  at 
the  commencement  of  the  Revolution, 
April  19,  1775,  is  reached  from  Boston 
by  a  branch  railway  through  West  Cam- 
bridge— a  fine  ride  of  11  miles.  The  mon- 
ument, built  in  1799,  stands  on  the  green 
near  the  church. 

Concord  (20  miles)  is  situated  on  the 
river  of  the  same  name.  It  was  set- 
tled in  1635,  and  is  celebrated  as  the 
place  where  the  first  effectual  resistance 
was  made,  and  the  first  British  blood 
shed,  in  the  Revolutionary  War.  On  the 
19th  of  April,  1775,  a  i)arty  of  British 
troops  was  ordered  by  General  Gage  to 
proceed  to  this  place  to  destroy  some 
military  stores,  which  had  been  deposited 
here  by  the  province.  The  troops  were 
met  at  the  north  bridge  by  the  people  of 
Concord  and  the  neighboring  towns,  and 
forcibly  repulsed.  A  handsome  granite 
monument,  25  feet  high,  erected  in  1836, 
commemorates  the  heroic  and  patriotic 
achievement.  Acton,  till  1735,  formed 
part  of  Concord. 

Orotoii  «?iiiictloii  (35  miles) 
is  the  point  of  intersection  with  the 
Worcester  and  Nashua,  the  Stom/brook, 
and  Peterboro'  aiid  Shirley  Railways. 
Groton  is  famous  for  the  beauty  of  its 
situation,  and  its  schools.  Population, 
3,172. 

ff'itcSibiirg  (50  miles),  the  ter- 
minus of  the  Fitchburg,  the  Filehburg 
and  Worcester,  and  the  Vermont  and 
MassachuscUs  Railways,  lies  on  a  branch 
of  the  Nashua  River,  which  afiords  a  tine 
water-power.  The  Town  Hall  is  a  spa- 
cious edifice.  The  leading  hotels  are  the 
Fitchburg  and  American. 


ItOUTE  VII. 

TO  II OL YOKE,  BELLOWS  FALLS,  AND 
WHITE  MOUNTAINS 

(  Via  Conjieciiciii  River  Railway,  aiid  con- 
nections.) 

The  Coymecticut,  the  queen  of  New 
England  rivers,  risc'^  in  the  hills  of  New 
Hampshire  and  Vermont,  near  the  Can- 


HOLTOKE.] 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


[Mount  Tom. 


ada  border,  and  flowing  nearly  south- 
ward for  400  miles,  separates  the  two 
States  of  its  mountain  birth,  traverses  the 
entire  breadth  of  Massachusetts  and  Con- 
necticut, to  the  Long  Island  Sound.  The 
Passumpsic,  the  White,  the  Becrfield,  the 
Westfield,  and  the  Ammoncosuc,  aie  its 
principal  tributaries.  It  is  navigable  for 
sloops  50  miles  up  to  Hartford,  and  vAth 
the  help  of  numerous  canals  very  much 
farther.  The  Connecticut  valley  is  per- 
haps 300  miles  long  in  a  straight  line, 
■with  a  mean  width  of  40  miles.  The 
soil  is  as  fertile  as  the  landscape  is  bcau- 
titul.  The  best  approach  is  from  the 
south,  via  Springiield.  (See  Spring- 
riELD.)  From  Boston,  the  best  route  is 
via  \yorccster  to  Springfield,  whence  the 
line  runs  due  north  50  miles  to  South 
Vernon. 

The  beautiful  valleys  vratcrcd  by  the 
Connecticut  are  among  the  most  inviting 
portions  of  the  New  England  landscape, 
whether  for  rapid  transit  or  for  pro- 
tracted stay.  The  whole  region  is  speed- 
ily and  pleasantly  accessible  from  every 
point,  and  may  be  traversed  en  route  to 
most  of  the  principal  summer  resorts  of 
New  England,  since  many  important  and 
very  attractive  towns  and  villages  lie 
within  its  area,  and  since  it  is  crossed 
and  recrossed,  everywhere,  by  the  in- 
tricate railway  system  vi^hich  uintcs  Bos- 
ton so  intimately,  not  only  with  all  the 
Eastern  States,  but  with  the  whole  coun- 
try. 

Stations. — Springfield,  Chicopee,  4  ; 
Wiliimansett,  '7 ;  Holyoke,  8 ;  Smith's 
Ferry,  13  ;  Northampton,  1 '7;  Hatfield, 
21  ;  Whately,  26  ;  South  Deerfield,  28  ; 
Beerfield,  33  ;  Greenfield,  36  ;  Bernards- 
ton,  43  ;  South  Vernon,  50. 

Chicopee^  on  the  south  bank  of  the 
Chicopee  River,  is  a  manufacturing  place 
of  considerable  note.  The  mills  of  the 
Dwiijld  Mayiifacturhig  Companij,  and  the 
works  of  the  A7nes  Mainifadvvlvrj  Com- 
pany^ are  worthy  a  visit.  Willhnanscit, 
(seven  miles)  is  the  point  of  departure 
for  South  Hadley  Falls. 

ISoIyolke  (eight  miles)  is  famous 
for  its  fine  water-power :  the  dam  across 
the  Connecticut  at  this  point,  built  hi  1849, 
is  1,017  feet  long,  and  30  feet  high. 
Mount  Ilolyoke  is  directly  across  the 
nver  from  Northampton ;  a  carriage  road 


three  miles  long  winds  to  the  summit, 
1,120  feet  aI)ove  the  sea,  where  there  is 
a  little  inn  and  an  observatory.  There 
are  not  of  its  kind  many  scenes  in  the 
world  more  beautiful  than  thatv/hich  the 
visitor  to  Mount  Ilolyoke  looks  down 
upon:  the  voried  features  of  the  picture 
-fruitful    valleys,    smiling  villages   and 


farms,    wmdmu; 


v/atcrs,  and,  far 


Oil, 


on 


every  side,  blue  mountain  peaks  innu- 
merable— vail  hold  him  long  in  hai-py 
contemplation.  Mount  Ilolyoke  is  a 
part  of  a  ridge  of  greenstone,  commen- 
cing with  ^W'st  Bock  near  New  Haven, 
and  proceeding  northerly  across  the 
whole  of  Connecticut ;  but  its  elevation 
is  small  until  it  reaches  Easthampton, 
when  it  suddenly  mounts  up  to  the 
height  of  nearly  1,000  feet,  and  forms 
Mount  Tom.  The  ridge  crosses  the  Con- 
necticut, in  a  northeast  direction,  and 
curving  still  more  to  the  east,  terminates 
10  miles  from  the  river,  in  the  north- 
west part  of  Belchertown,  All  that  part 
of  the  ridge  east  of  the  river  is  called 
Holyoke,  though  the  Pro^pject  House, 
built  in  1821,  stands  near  its  southwest- 
ern extremity,  opposite  Northampton, 
and  near  the  Connecticut,  This  is  by  far 
the  most  commanding  spot  on  the  moun- 
tain, although  several  distinct  summits, 
that  have  as  yet  received  no  uniform 
name,  aflbrd  delightful  prospects.  An 
inclined  railway  600  feet  long  down  the 
moiintain  side  connects  with  horse-cars 
to  the  Connecticut  River,  where  passen- 
gers take  boat. 

Momi.f  7c?7?,  upon  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river,  is  not  yet  so  much  visited  as 
are  its  neighboring  clifls  of  Holyoke, 
though  it  is  considerably  higher,  and  the 
panorama  from  its  crest  is  no  less  broad 
and  beautiful.     Its  height  is  1,200  feet. 

Easthampton,  on  the  Granby  Railway 
(five  miles  from  Northampton),  is  sit- 
uated on  the  vrest  side  of  Mount  Tom. 
It  contains  a  very  extensive  button  manu- 
factory, well  deserving  of  a  visit  from 
those  who  can  appreciate  mechanical  iu- 
Kcnnity.  The  principal  feature  of  the 
place,  however,  is  its  noble  seminary  for 
the  youth  of  both  sexes,  v.hich  Avas 
founded  and  li'Dcraliy  endowed  by  the 
Hon.  Samuel  Williston,  at  an  expense  of 
$55,000,  and  has  been  in  successful  op- 
eration upward  of  20  years,  having  now 

97 


Route  VII.] 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


[XORTnAMPTON. 


an  average  attendance  of  about  200  pu- 
pils. On  the  east  side  of  Mount  Tom 
and  on  the  river  is  the  village  of  South 
JLu.Vey,  famous  as  the  seat  of  the  Moimt 
Hoi  ,'(jke  Femah  Scmlnari/,  founded  1837, 
and  for  many  years  conJucted  by  Miss 
Mary  Lyon.  This  institution  has  sent 
out  hundreds  of  graduates,  as  teachers, 
into  all  parts  of  the  land.  South  Iladlcy 
has  many  spots  which  afford  most  agree- 
able prospects.  Standing  on  the  ele- 
vated bank  of  the  river  and  facing  the 
northwest,  you  look  directly  up  the  Con- 
necticut, where  it  passes  between  IIol- 
yoke  and  Tom — those  mountains  rising 
with  precipitous  boldness,  on  either  side 
of  the  valley ;  through  the  opening,  the 
river  is  seen  for  tv.o  or  three  miles,  en- 
livened by  one  or  two  lovely  islands, 
while  over  the  rich  meadows,  that  adorn 
the  banks,  are  scattered  trees,  through 
which,  half  hidden,  appears  in  the  dis- 
tance the  village  of  Northampton,  its 
more  conspicuous  edifices  being  only 
visible. 

The  village  of  Iladley  is  connected  with 
Northampton  by  a  bridge  over  the  Con- 
necticut. The  river  immediately  above 
the  tov*-n,  leaving  its  general  course,  turns 
northwest ;  then,  after  winding  to  the 
south  again,  turns  directly  east ;  and  thus 
having  wandered  five  miles,  encloses,  ex- 
cept on  the  east,  a  beautiful  intervale 
containing  between  two  and  three  thou- 
sand acres.  On  the  isthmus  of  this  pen- 
insula lies  the  principal  street  (West 
Street),  the  handsomest,  by  nature,  in 
New  England.  It  is  a  mile  in  length, 
running  directly  north  and  scuth  ;  is  six- 
teen rods  in  breadth ;  is  nearly  a  perfect 
level ;  is  covered  during  the  fine  season 
with  a  rich  verdure ;  abuts  at  both  ends 
on  the  river,  and  yields  everywhere  a  de- 
lightful prospect,  lladley  was  settled  in 
IG.jO,  by  a  colony  from  Hartford,  Windsor, 
and  Wethersfield,  Connecticut.  In  this 
town  resided  for  fifteen  or  sixteen  years 
Whalley  and  Goffe,  two  of  those  who 
composed  the  court  for  the  trial  of  King 
Charles  the  First,  and  who  signed  the 
warrant  for  his  execution.  They  came  to 
Hadley  in  1664.  When  the  house  which 
thny  occupied  was  pulled  down,  tlie  bones 
of  Wl'.alley  were  found  burled  just  with- 
out the  cellar  wall,  in  a  kind  of  tomb 
formed  of  mason-work,  and  covered  with 
98 


flags  of  hewn  stone.  After  Whalley'9 
death,  Goffe  left  Hadley,  and  went,  it  was 
thou.<;ht,  to  New  York,  and  finally  to 
Rhode  Island,  v/here  he  spent  the  rest 
of  his  life  with  a  son  of  his  deceased  coiv- 
frrrc. 

I^'oi'tliaiiiptoii.  —  Hotels,     the 
Mansion  Hoitse,  an  elegant  establishment 
upon  the  upper  edge  of  the  village ;  IT'^r- 
ner  House,   in  the  business   street ;    and 
Round  Hill  Institute.     Northampton  wa3 
settled  in  1654,  by  planters  from  Hartford 
and  Windsor.    The  Indian  name  is  Nono- 
tucJc.     It  is  in  every  way  one  of  the  most 
charming  villages  in  New  England,  and 
none  other  is  more  sought  for  summer 
residences.     It  lies  about  a  mile  west  of 
the  Connecticut,  surrounded  by  rich  allu- 
vial meadows,  sweeping  out  in  broad  ex- 
panse from  the  base  of  the  grand  moun- 
tain ridges.     The  village  is  not  too  large 
for  country  pleasures,  the  population  of 
the  township  falling  within  6,000 ;  yet  its 
natural  advantages  are  so  great,  and  so 
many  pleasant   people   have  established 
themselves  here  in  such  attractive  places, 
and  the  hotels  are  so  admirable,  that  the 
tourist  will  not  miss  either  the  social  or 
the  physical  enjoyments  of  his  city  home. 
Even  the  little  business  part  of  North- 
ampton  has  a   cosy,  rural   air,  and    all 
around   are   charming  villas,   nestled  on 
green  lawns,  and  among  fragrant  flowers. 
Among  the  specialties  of  Northampton 
are  several  water-cure  establishments,  the 
chief  of  which  is  that  known  as  Jxound 
Hill,  a  large  and  beautiful  place,  upon  the 
fine  eminence  after  which  it  is  named,  just 
west  of  the  village.     The  schools  here 
have  always   been  in  very  high  repute. 
The  State  Lunatic  Asylum  is  a  large  and 
elegant    structure,    built   in    1858.     The 
vicinage  of  Northampton  is,  perhaps,  the 
most  beautiful  portion  of  the  Connecticut 
valley,  the   most  fertile   in  its  intervale 
land,  and  the  most  striking  in  its  moun- 
tain scenes;  for  it  looks  out  directly  upon 
the  crags  and  crests  of  those  famous  hills, 
Mount  liolyoke  and  Mount  Tom.     Flor- 
ence is   a  thriving   manufacturing   point 
two  miles  west  of  the  centre  of  the  town. 
A  horse  milway  is  in  process  of  construc- 
tion to  Florence  and  Williamsburg. 

Iffatlloy,  3  miles  east  of  tlie  rail- 
way, is  famous  for  its  manufacture  of 
brooms,  first  introduced  in  1790.     It  is 


Amherst  College.] 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


[Greenfield. 


'     the  birthplace  of  Major-Gencral    Joseph 
Hooker. 

Aiuliopst  ColSoge,  fouiulcd  in 
1821,  is  Iniilt  uptm  au  eminence,  ibur  miles 
eastof  Hadley.  The  College  Observatory^ 
and  especially  its  rich  cabinet  collection, 
is  worthy  the  attention  of  the  visitor. 
The  npper  room  ( Octagonal  Cabinet)  con- 
tains Professor  Shepard's  Mincralogical 
Cabinet  of  6,000  specimens.  The  lower 
room  contains  Wood's  Geological  Cabinet, 
numbering  20,000  specimens.  The  Nhie- 
vch  Gallery,  the  Adams  Zoological  Cab- 
inet, and  Dr.  Hitchcock's  IcJmological  Col- 
lection, containing  9,000  specimens,  and 
the  Herbarium,  should  in  turn  be  visited. 
The  buildings  of  the  JIassachvsctfs  Agri- 
cnltural  College,  commenced  in  18G6,  are 
aKo  worthy  a  visit. 

The  Great  Bend  of  the  Connecticut  is 
reached  a  mile  north  of  Northampton, 
and  here  we  take  our  last  view  of  the 
river  until  we  reach  South  Vernon. 

Hatfield,  four  miles,  and  Whatehj,  nine 
miles  from  Northampton,  are  next  reach- 
ed, and  soon  after — 

The  J^iig-as'-ljoaf  Mowsttsain 
comes  into  view,  as  we  journey  on  up  the 
valley.  This  conical  peak  of  red  sand- 
stone rises  almost  perpendicularly  five 
Inmdred  feet  above  the  plain,  on  the 
bank  of  the  Connecticut,  in  the  south 
part  of  Deerfield  township.  As  the  trav- 
eller approaches  this  hill  from  the  south, 
it  seems  as  if  its  summit  were  inaccessi- 
ble. But  it  can  be  attained  without  dif- 
ficulty on  foot,  and  affords  a  delightful 
view  on  almost  every  side.  The  Connec- 
ticut and  the  peaceful  village  of  Sunder- 
land on  its  bank  appear  so  near,  that  one 
imagines  he  might  almost  reach  them  by 
a  single  leap.  This  mountain  overlooks 
a  spot  which  was  the  scene  of  the  most 
sanguinary  conflicts  that  occurred  during 
the  early  settlement  of  this  region.  A 
little  south  of  the  mountain  the  Indians 
were  defeated  in  16'75  by  Captains  La- 
tlirop  and  Beers ;  and  one  mile  northwest, 
where  the  village  of  Bloody  Brook  (South 
Deerfield)  nov\^  stands  (which  derived  its 
name  from  the  circumstance),  in  the  same 
year,  Captain  Lathrop  was  drawn  into  an 
ambuscade,  with  a  company  of  "  eighty 
young  men,  the  very  flower  of  Essex 
County,"  who  were  nearly  all  destroyed. 
A  stone  slab  marks  the  spot  where  Cap- 


tain Lathrop  and  about  thirty  of  his  men 
were  interred ;  and  a  marble  monument^ 
about  twenty  feet  higli  and  six  feet  Sfjuare, 
is  erected  in  front  of  the  N'oH/i  Church. 
Table  Rock  and  King  Philip^s  Chair  are 
on  the  eastern  side  of  the  mountain. 

Deerfield  Mountain,  rising  some  700  feet 
above  tlie  plain  on  which  the  village 
stands,  com.mands  a  wide  view.  The  allu- 
vial plain  on  which  Decrfie'ld  stands  is 
sunk  nearly  100  feet  below  the  general 
level  of  the  Connecticut  valley ;  and  at 
the  southwest  part  of  this  basin,  Deerfield 
Kiver  is  seen  emei^ging  from  the  moun- 
tains, and  Vtdnding  in  the  most  graceful 
curves  along  its  whole  western  border. 
Still  farther  dowai  is  the  village,  remark- 
able for  its  regularity,  and  for  the  number 
and  size  of  the  trees  along  the  principal 
street.  Upon  the  whole,  this  view  forms 
one  of  the  most  perfect  rural  pictures  that 
can  be  imagined.  Pocumtuck  Rock  com- 
mands a  fine  view  of  the  valley.  The 
bridge  over  the  Deerfield  Eiver,  just  be- 
yond the  station,  is  750  feet  long  and  90 
feet  above  the  water.  Three  miles  north 
of  Deerfield,  and  in  the  same  valley,  but 
on  higher  ground,  can  be  seen  the  lovely 
village  of  Greenfield. 

Mount  Toby  lies  in  the  north  part  of 
Sunderland  and  the  west  part  of  Leverett 
townships,  and  is  separated  from  Sugar- 
Loaf  and  Deerfield  Mountains  by  the  Con- 
necticut River.  On  various  parts  of  the 
mountain  interesting  views  may  be  ob- 
tained, but  at  the  southern  extremity  of 
the  highest  ridge  there  is  a  finer  view  of 
the  valley  of  the  Connecticut  tlian  from 
any  other  eminence.  Elevated  above  the 
river  nearly  1,200  feet,  and  but  a  little 
distance  from  it,  its  windings  lie  directly 
before  you;  and  the  villages  that  line 
its  banks,  Sunderland,  Hadley,  Hatfield, 
Northampton,  and  Amherst,  appear  like 
so  many  sparkling  gems  in  its  crown. 

Mount  Warner  is  a  hill  of  less  altitude 
than  any  before  named,  being  only  200 
or  300  feet  in  height,  but  a  rich  view  can 
be  had  from  its  top  of  tliat  portion  of  the 
valley  of  the  Connecticut  just  described. 
It  lies  in  the  north  part  of  the  town  of 
Hadley,  not  more  than  half  a  mile  from 
the  river,  and  can  be  easily  reached  by 
carriage. 

^^i-eeBaiieM.— Hotel,    the     J/a?4- 

sion  House. 

99 


Greenfield.] 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


[Greenfieli 


Greenfield,  on  the  Vermont  and  Mas- 
sachnscfls  Mailway,  52  miles  west  of 
Fitchburg,  and  18  miles  south  of  Bmttle- 
boi'O,  is  a  pli'asant  and  tliriving  place, 
with  a  population  of  3,500.  The  vv^onted 
New  England  quiet,  however,  is  all 
around  it  in  elm-shade  1  streets  and  gar- 
den-surrounded  villas.  The  hill-ranges  in 
the  neighborhood  open  fine  pictures  of 
the  valleys  and  windings  of  the  great 
river.  Being  connected  v*dth  the  railway 
systems  of  the  west  and  of  the  north- 
west, it  is  a  desirable  place  for  tourists  to 
rest  a  while  ere  starting  upon  fresh  fields 
of  adventure  and  exploration.  Green 
River,  which  flows  near  the  village,  is  a 
pretty  stream,  and  hard  by  are  the  Deer- 
field  and  Greenfield  Rivers.  Cutlery  is 
100 


extensively    manufactured     here.       Th 
neighborhood  abounds   in  pretty  drives 
The  famous    Hoosic    Tannel  is   reache' 
from    Greenfield,    via   Slielburne    Fallc 
Turner^s   Falls,    and    Bernardston,    the 
seat    of    Power''s    Instiiuie,    are   passed 
before     reaching     South     Vernon,    the 
southern   line  of  Vermont.     At   Middle 
Vernon  there  is  a  charming  view  up  the 
river,  as  seen  from   the  railway  track — 
Mount  Chesterfield,   in   New   Hampshire, 
opposite  Brattleboro,  rising  up  stoutly  in 
the  background. 

And  here  we  will  part  company  with 
our  traveller  for  a  while,  promising  soon 
to  join  him  in  further  explorations  in  the 
neighboring  States  of  New  Hampshire 
and  Vermont. 


New  nAMPSiiiRE.] 


NEW   HAMrSIIIRE. 


[The  White  Mountains. 


'NEW     H  A  M  P  S  II I  E  E . 


New  HAMPsniRE,  one  of  the  orlgmal 
thirteen  States,  is  bounded  north  by 
Canada,  east  by  Maine  and  the  Atlantic, 
south  by  Massachusetts,  and  west  by 
Vermont.  The  first  settlements  were 
made  at  Dover,  in  1G23.  It  contains 
some  of  the  grandest  hill  and  valley 
and  lake  scenery  in  America,  and  is 
yearly  visited  by  a  larger  number  of 
tourists  than  perhaps  any  State  in  the 
Union.  The  White  Mountains  here  are 
popularly  supposed  to  be  the  highest 
laud  east  of  the  Mississippi  Iviver,  as  in- 
deed they  are,  with  the  single  exception 
of  Black  Mountain  in  North  Carolina. 
These  noble  hills  occupy,  with  their  many 
outposts,  a  very  considerable  portion  of 
the  State,  and  form  the  specialty  in  its 
physical  character.  The  reader  ynW  find 
a  detailed  mention  of  all  these  features, 
and  of  the  beautiful  intermediate  lake- 
region,  in  subsequent  pages. 

On  his  route  from  Boston  to  the  moun- 
tain regions,  the  tourist  will  find  much 
to  interest  him,  if  his  interest  lies  that 
Vv^ay,  in  the  enterprising  manufacturing 
towns  of  the  lower  part  of  the  State.  In 
its  historical  records.  New  Hampshire  has 
no  very  striking  passages — no  important 
reminiscences,  either  of  the  Revolutionary 
War,  or  of  the  later  conflict  with  Great 
Britain  in  1812. 

The  principal  rivers  of  New  Hamp- 
shire are  the  Connecticut,  v/hich  forms 
the  whole  western  boundary  of  the  State, 
dividing  it  from  Vermont,  the  Merrimac, 
Upper  and  Lower  Ammonoosuc,  and  the 
Saco.  Lake  Winnipisaukee,  near  the 
centre  of  the  State,  is  its  principal  inland 
water.  The  railway  lines  of  New  Hamp- 
shire are  numerous  enough  to  give  ready 
access  to  all  sections  of  her  territory,  and 
to  the  neighboring  States.  Occasions  will 
occur  for  ample  mention  of  the  facilities 


which  they  afford  for  travel,  as  we  follow 
them,  severally,  hither  and  thither.  New 
Hampshire  is  divided  into  ten  counties, 
viz. :  Belknap,  Carroll,  Cheshire,  Coos, 
Grafton,  Hillsborough,  Merrimac,  Rock- 
ingham, Strafford,  and  Sullivan.  Man- 
chester, Concord  (the  capital),  Nashua, 
and  Portsmouth,  are  the  chief  towns. 
The  population  in  18G0  was  320,073. 


2'ff-S  WHITE  MO  UNTAINS. 

ROUTES  FROM  BOSTON;    PORTLAND, 
ETC. 

Route  1.  From  Boston  by  Lake  Win- 
nipisaukee and  Conway  Valley.  From 
Haymarket  Square,  Boston,  to  Concord, 
70  miles,  by  Concord,  Mancheder^  and 
Lawrence  Railwai/  y  33  miles,  to  ^Veir's, 
on  Lake  Winnipisaukee,  by  Bosion.,  Con- 
cord, and  Montreal  Railivat/ ;  10  miles  by 
steamer  "  Lady  of  the  Lake"  on  Lake  Win- 
nipisaukee to  Centre  Harbor  (dine) ;  30 
miles  by  stage  to  Conway  remain  all 
night,  and  proceed,  24  miles,  to  Crawford 
House,  White  Mountain  Notch,  next  day. 
Total  distance  from  Boston  to  Crawford 
House,  1G8  miles.  Distance  from  New 
York,  405  miles.  Passengers  by  the  Bos- 
ton morning  train  only  reach  Convv'ay  the 
same  evening.  Those  taking  No.  2,  or 
noon  train,  will  pass  the  night  at  Centre 
Harbor,  on  Lake  Winnipisaukee,  and  the 
next  night  at  Conway,  reaching  the  moun- 
tains on  the  third  day. 

Route  2.  From  Boston.  Leave  Hay- 
market  Square  (as  in  Route  1);  68  miles 
to  Dover,  N.  H.,  upon  .Bosion  and  3Iaiue 
Railwaii  ;  thence  to  Alton  Bay,  28  miles, 
upon  Dover  and  Whinljiisaulcce  Railway  ; 
thence  by  steamer  "Chocorua"  (dine  on 
board)  to  Wolfboro'  (Pavihon  hotel)  ar.d 
Centre  Harbor,  30  miles,  on  Lake  Winni- 

101 


Routes.] 


NEW  HAMPSniRE. 


[Routes. 


pisaukee ;  thence  by  stage,  via  Convway, 
10  the  mountains,  as  in  Route  Xo.  1.  Pass- 
enge-  s  by  morning  train  only,  from  Boston, 
reach  Conway  the  same  night.  Those  by 
second,  or  noon  train,  will  pass  the  night 
at  Wolf  boro',  or  Centre  Harbor.  From 
Boston  to  Crawford  House,  by  this  route, 
96  miles  by  railroad,  30  by  steamboat, 
and  54  by  stage;  total,  180  miles. 

Route  3.  From  Boston,  same  as  in 
route  No.  1,  as  far  as  Weir's,  on  Lake 
Winuipisaukee  ;  thence,  continuing  upon 
the  railroad,  18  miles  from  Weir's  to  Ply- 
mouth, N.  H. ;  dine  at  Plymouth  (Z'er/i/- 
gewasset  HoTise),  and  proceed  by  stage, 
24  miles,  through  West  Campton,  etc.,  to 
the  Flume  House,  Franconia  Notch,  the 
western  end  of  the  mountains.  Passen- 
gers by  the  morning  train  from  Boston 
■will  reach  the  Flume  House,  Franconia 
Notch,  the  same  evening.  Those  taking 
the  second  train  will  stay  over  until  next 
day  at  Plymouth.  Distance  from  Boston 
to  Flume  House,  148  miles,  being  124  bv 
railway,  and  24  by  stage.  Stages  daily 
tVora  Flume  House,  5  miles  to  Protile 
House,  22  miles  to  White  J\[o;'ntain 
House ;  thence,  5  miles,  to  Crawford 
House.  Distance  from  Flume  House  to 
Crawford  House,  32  miles. 

Route  4.  From  Boston,  same  as  in 
Routes  1  and  3,  to  Weir's ;  thence  to  Ply- 
mouth (dine),  continuing  upon  the  rail- 
ro.id,  42  miles,  from  Plymouth  to  Wells 
River ;  thence  upon  While  Mountains 
Railway^  20  miles,  to  Littleton  ;  thence 
by  stage,  1 1  miles,  to  Profile  House,  and 
6  miles  farther  to  Flume  House,  or  23 
miles  to  Crawford  House.  Passengers  by 
the  early  train  only  reach  the  mountains 
the  same  night.  Those  taking  second 
train  stay  till  next  day  at  Plymouth. 
From  Boston  to  Profile  House,  193  miles  ; 
to  Flume  House,  198  miles;  to  Crawford 
House,  205  miles;  182  miles  by  railroad, 
rest  by  stage. 

ROUTES  VIA  PORTLAND,  MAINE. 

Route  5.  To  Portland,  111  miles  hy  Bos- 
ton and  Maine  Raihnaii,  niurning  and  even- 
ing, from  Hayuiarket  Square,  via  Read- 
ing, Lawrence,  Haverhill,  Exeter,  etc. 
Through  baggage  for  the  White  Moun- 
tains to  be  marked  '"'•  Porlland  JEasty 
Passengers  by  first  train  will  duie  in  Port- 
102 


land,  and  take  Grand  Trunk  Railway, 
through  Cumberland,  Yarmouth,  etc.,  91 
miles,  to  Gorham,  N.  H.  Second-train 
passengers  will  pass  the  night  at  Portland, 
and  proceed  to  Gorham  next  day.  From 
Gorham,  9  miles,  by  stage  to  Glen  House, 
foot  of  Mount  Washincrton.  Stages  leave 
Glen  House  every  morning  for  Crawford 
House,  34  miles  distant,  via  Pinkham 
Notch,  also  via  Cherry  Mountain.  From 
Boston  to  Gorham,  202  miles ;  to  Glen 
House,  211  miles;  to  Crawford  House, 
244  miles. 

Route  6.  Leave  Causeway  Street  by 
Eastern  Ralhvay,  morning  and  evening, 
via  Lynn,  Salem,  Beverly,  Newburyport, 
Portsmouth,  etc.,  108  miles,  to  Portland, 
and  thence  as  in  Route  No.  5. 

Route  7.  From  Boston  to  Portland, 
by  steamer,  every  night,  from  end  of 
Central  Wharf;  thence,  as  in  Route 
No.  5. 

Route  8.  From  Boston  to  Portland,  by 
railway  or  steamer,  as  in  Routes  5,  6,  and 
7,  and  thence  by  Sebago  Lake  and  Pleas- 
ant Mountain  to  Conway  ;  thence  to 
Crawford  House,  etc.,  as  in  Route  No.  1. 

ROUTES  FROM  NEW  YORK  DIRECT. 

Route  9.  From  New  York  by  railway 
via  New  Haven,  Hartford,  and  Spring- 
field ;  thence  by  railway  up  the  valley  of 
the  Connecticut  to  Wells  River,  and  from 
thence  to  Littleton,  N.  H. ;  from  Littleton 
by  stage,  as  in  Route  4. 

Route  10.  By  steamboat  from  Pier  18, 
North  River,  N.  Y.,  every  evening  to  New 
London  ;  thence  by  railway  to  Worcester, 
Nashua,  and  Concord;  and  fromConcoi'd 
on  the  east  side  by  Conway  to  Crawlbrd 
House,  Route  1  ;  or  the  west  side  by 
Campton  to  the  Franconia  Notch,  Route 
3.  A  very  charming  route,  full  of  ever- 
changing  and  increasingly  attractive 
points. 

Route  11.  From  New  York  ])y  Hudson 
River,  or  JIudssn  River  Raihoay,  to  Al- 
bany or  Troy ;  thence  to  Whitehall,  and 
down  Lake  Champlain  to  Burlington, 
Vermont :  thence  by  Vermont  Cenlral 
Railroad  through  the  Winooski  valley 
andCJrcen  Mountains  {via  Montpelier),  to 
White  River  Junction,  where  connection 
is  made  with  the  Conncclicut  Valley  road 
to  Littleton. 


Concord.] 


NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 


[Portsmouth. 


Route  12,  From  New  York  by  Iludson 
River  to  Albany ;  thence  to  AVhitehall, 
head  of  Lake  Champlain,  and  thence  via 
Rutland,  Vermont ;  or  via  Bellows  Palls, 
on  the  line  of  the  Connecticut  Valley  road, 
to  Littleton. 

The  fashionable  route  is  the  boat  route 
by  Weir's  ;  but  amid  such  a  multiplicity 
of  routes  the  tourist  will  be  best  guided 
by  his  own  taste  and  inclination. 

Mancliester,  52  miles  from  Bos- 
ton, via  Lawrence,  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Merrimac,  is  an  important  manufac- 
turing town.  This  place,  like  Lawrence 
and  other  points  in  Massachusetts,  has 
suddenly  grown,  under  the  development 
of  manufacturing  enterprise,  from  an  in- 
considerable village,  into  a  large  and  popu- 
lous city.  Its  charter  was  granted  in 
1846,  and  it  now  contains  23,000  inhab- 
itants. The  villages  of  Piscataquog  and 
Amoskeag  ("  Quog  "  and  "  Skeag  ")  are 
included  in  the  city  limits. 

C©sicoi°4l, — Hotel,  Eagle  House. 

Concord,  the  capital  of  the  State,  is  on 
the  banks  of  the  Merrinnac,  20  miles  above 
Manchester,  by  Concord,  Manchester, 
and  Laivrence  Railroad.  The  State  Cap- 
itol, the  Lunatic  Asylum,  and  the  State 
Prison,  are  public  edifices  of  interest.  A 
Methodist  General  Biblical  Institute  was 
founded  here  in  1 84Y.  Main  Street,  the 
principal  thoroughfare,  is  two  miles  long 
and  150  feet  wide.  It  is  the  home  of  ex- 
President  Franklin  Pierce.  Concord  has 
railway  connection  with  the  White  Moun- 
tains, via  Boston,  Concord,  and  Montreal 
Bailway.  The  Concord  and  Portsmouth, 
Concord  and  Claremont,  and  Northern 
(N.  H.)  Railways  also  diverge  here. 

llaiaaptosa,  45  miles,  is  pleasantly 
situated  in  Rockingham  County,  near  the 
Atlantic  coast,  nearly  midway  between 
Boston  and  Portland,  via  the  Eastern 
Railway.  From  elevations  in  the  vicinity 
there  are  fine  views  of  the  ocean,  the  Isle 
of  Shoals,  and  the  sea-coast  from  Cape 
Ann  lo  Portsmouth.  Hampton  Beach  is  a 
favorite  resort  for  parties  of  pleasure,  in- 
valids, and  those  seeking  an  invigorating 
air.  Great  Boar''s  Head,  in  this  town,  is 
an  abrupt  eminence  extending  into  the 
sea,  and  dividing  the  beach  on  either  side. 
There  is  here  a  hotel  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  visitors.  The  fishing  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  shore  is  very  good.     The 


village  of  Hampton  Falls,  incorporated  in 
1*712,  is  three  miles  south. 

'I'lac  Isle  ol*  ^SioaBs  is  distant 
about  nine  miles  from  Hampton  and  from 
Portsmouth.  These  shoals  are  seven  in 
number.  Hoy  Island,  the  largest,  contains 
350  acres,  mostly  rocky  and  barren.  Its 
greatest  elevation  is  59  feet  above  high- 
water  mark.  Upon  this  island  is  a  hotel. 
Rye  Beach  is  another  watering-place  on 
this  coast,  much  frequented  by  persons 
from  the  neighboring  towns. 

l*o rt S1M.OII t Ba .  — Hotel,  RocMng- 
ham  House. 

Portsmouth,  56  miles  from  Boston,  and 
52  from  Portland,  Maine,  by  the  East- 
ern Railroad,  the  second  city  of  the  State, 
and  the  only  seaport,  is  built  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Piscataqua  River.  Its  situation 
is  a  fine  one,  being  on  a  peninsula,  near  the 
mouth  of  the  river.  It  is  connected  by 
bridges  with  Kittery,  in  Maine,  aiid  New- 
castle, on  Grand  Island,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river.  The  harbor  is  safe  and  deep, 
and  is  never  frozen,  its  strong  tides  pre- 
venting the  formation  of  ice.  The  United 
States  JSfavy  Yard  is  worth  visiting.  The 
North  America,  the  first  line-of-battle 
ship  launched  in  this  hemisphere,  was 
built  here  during  the  Revolution.  (For 
continuation  of  this  route  to  Portland,  see 
Maine.) 

The  tourist  journeying  to  the  White 
Mountains  or  Canada,  by  way  of  the  Con- 
necticut valley,  will  resume  his  route 
(see  Springfield,  Mass.)  at  Brattleboro, 
which,  though  in  the  adjoining  State  of 
Vermont,  properly  belongs  to  this  chapter 
on  New  Hampshire,  as  being  on  the  great 
highway  of  travel  to  the  White  Moun- 
tains. 

15ff'att3e"B>02*o. — Hotels,  the  Brat- 
tleboro, the  Wcsselhoft. 

Brattleboro  brings  us  fairly  out  of  the 
rich  alluvial  lands  into  the  upper  and 
more  rugged  portions  of  the  Connecticut. 
The  intervales  now  grow  narrower,  and 
the  hills  more  striking.  This  beautiful 
village  is  in  a  very  picturesque  district, 
upon  the  west  side  of  the  river,  at  the 
mouth  of  Whetstone  Creek.  It  is,  de- 
servedly, one  of  the  most  esteemed  of 
the  summer  resorts  of  the  Connecticut, 
so  pure  and  health-restoring  are  its  airs 
and  so  pleasant  all  its  surroundings. 
There  are  here  several  large  and  admir- 

103 


Bellows  Falls.] 


NEW   HAMPSniRE. 


[Keene. 


able  water-cure  establislimcnts.  The  vil- 
lage cenicterii^  which  occupies  a  lofty  ter- 
race overlooking  the  river  above  and 
below,  is  a  beautiful  rural  spot.  West 
Eiver,  above' the  town,  is  au  exceedingly 
picturesque  stream.  The  buildings  and 
grounds  of  tlie  Asylum  for  the  Insane 
present  a  fine  appearance.  Opposite 
Brattleboro,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Con- 
necticut, rise  WantaMiquet  and  3nne 
Mounlains.  The  former  is  1,061  feet 
high.  The  Vermont  and  Massachusetts 
Railroad  to  Fitchburg  (69  miles)  diverges 
hence.  West  Brattleboro  is  two  miles 
distant. 

Our  next  stage  is  24  miles,  from  Brat- 
tleboro to  Bellows  Falls,  over  the  Yer- 
mont  Valley  road. 

Westm.mster^  20  miles  north  of  Brattle- 
boro, is  interesting  as  the  spot  where 
were  enacted  some  of  the  earliest  scenes 
and  incidents  of  the  Revolution.  It  con- 
tains the  oldes-t  church  building  in  Ver- 
mont, erected  IVYO.  It  is  now  used  as  . 
a  town-hall  and  store.  The  Gazette^  the 
first  paper  issued  (1781)  in  the  State,  was 
pul)lished  here, 

Walpole^  opposite  Westminster,  is  a 
pretty  village,  founded  in  1782  by  Colonel 
Benjamin  Bv.'11oavs.  Ahenaqids^  a  mineral 
spring,  is  two  miles  north  of  the  village. 
Derry  Hill  commands  fine  views. 

SScilows  Fiills.  —  Hotel  :  the 
Island  Home  is  a  well-kept  establish- 
ment. 

Bellows  Falls  is  a  famous  congrega- 
ting and  stopping  place  of  railways.  Witli 
the  exception  of  some  bold  passages  of 
natural  scenery,  there  is  not  much  here, 
comparatively,  to  detain  the  traveller. 
Railways  come  in  from  Boston  on  tlic 
east,  from  the  valley  of  the  Con':ecticut 
on  the  south,  from  Vermont  and  Canada 
on  the  north,  and  from  Albany  and  Troy, 
via  Rutland,  on  the  west. 

The  Falls  are  a  series  of  rapids  in  the 
Connecticut,  extending  about  a  mile  along 
the  base  of  a  higli  and  precipitous  hill, 
known  as  Moimt  Kilhurn^  which  skirts 
the  river  on  the  New  Hampshire  side. 
At  the  bridge  which  crosses  the  river  at 
this  place,  the  visitor  can  stand  directly 
over  tlie  boiling  flood;  viewed  from 
whence,  the  whole  scene  is  very  efi'ective. 
The  Coiinecticut  is  here  compressed  into 
so  narrow  a  compass  that  it  seems  as  if 
104 


one  could  almost  leap  across  it.  The 
water,  vrhich  is  one  dense  mass  of  foam, 
rushes  through  the  chasm  with  such 
velocity,  that  in  striking  on  the  rocks 
below,  it  is  forced  back  upon  itself  for  a 
considerable  distance.  In  no  place  is  the 
fall  perpendicular  to  any  consideiable 
extent,  but  in  the  distance  of  half  a  mile 
the  waters  descend  about  50  feet.  A 
canal  half  a  mile  long,  \\'ith  locks,  was 
constructed  round  the  falls,  many  years 
since,  at  an  expense  of  $50,000.  The 
first  bridge  across  the  Connecticut  was 
built  here  in  1785.  From  Bellows  Falls 
diverges  the  Cheshire  Railway  (64  miles) 
to  Fitchburg,  and  the  Rutland  and  Bur- 
lington Railway  (120  miles)  to  Burlington, 
Vermont. 

lieesie,  22  miles  southeast  of  Bel- 
lows Falls,  is  one  of  the  prettiest  towns  of 
New  Hampshire  in  this  vicinity.  It  is 
situated  on  a  flat,  east  of  the  Ashuelot 
River,  and  is  upon  the  route  of  the 
Cheshire  Railway,  by  which  it  is  con- 
nected with  Boston  and  with  the  Con- 
necticut River  roads.  It  is  a  place  of 
considerable  business,  there  being  sev- 
eral manufacturing  estal)lishments  here. 
Tiie  A'^hnclot  Railway  (42  miles)  runs  to 
Fitchburg,  via  Trov  and  Ashburnham. 

From  Bellows  Falls  we  pass  on  north- 
ward to  AVindsor,  26  miles,  by  the 
Vermont  and  Canada  and  Vermont  Cen- 
tral and  Suilivan  Railways. 

South  Charlestown,  Charlcstoiv?i,  and 
Korth  Charlestown,  are  quiet  little  aside 
villages  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Connec- 
ticut, in  Sullivan  County.  Charkstown 
(eight  miles  from  Belloics  R'alls)  is  one 
of  the  oldest  towns  in  the  State.  A 
bridge  crosses  the  river  on  the  road  to 
Springfield,  Vermont.  Charlestown  was 
the  extreme  nortliern  outpost  in  the  early 
days  of  the  New  England  colonies. 
There  was  then  a  rude  military  work  here, 
called  Fort  Number  Four. 

Claremont  is  also  on  the  east  bank  of 
the  Connecticut,  in  Sullivan  County.  Iti3 
a  pleasant  little  manufacturing  village. 
The  scenery  in  this  neighborhood  is  ex- 
ti"cmely  fine.  The  banks  of  the  Sugar 
River  are  very  picturesque,  and  the  chang- 
ing aspects  of  Mouyit  Ascntney,  which  we 
now  approach,  are  of  the  highest  interest. 
It  is  upon  the  east  side  that  this  noble 
hill,  standing  solitary  and  alone,  a  brave 


Hanover.] 


NEW  HAMPSIIirvE. 


[Hanover. 


outpost  of  the  cominp;  Green  Mountains 
on  the  one  hand  and  of  tlie  White 
Mountains  on  the 
greatest 


grandeur, 
tous  summits  and 
here  a  very  bold 
soDietimes    called 


other,  is  seen  in  its 


Its  ruggca  precipi- 
its  dark  ravines  have 
aspect,  Ascutney  is 
the  Tliree  Brothers^ 
from  its  trio  of  lofty  peaks,  all  visible 
from  the  southern  approach.  From 
the  eastward  and  northward,  at  Wind- 
sor and  from  the  west,  its  appearance 
is  totally  different,  but  always  fine. 
It  may  be  very  comfortably  ascended 
from  Windsor,  in  a  good  day's  tramp ; 
and  the  view  from  the  summit  is  scarcely 
inferior  in  extent,  variety,  and  magnifi- 
cence to  that  from  any  other  peak  of  the 
Vermont  chain.     Its  height  is  3,320  feet. 

"SVisaclsoi'  is  one  of  the  pleasantest 
rural  retreats  of  all  this  charming  region, 
with  its  vicinage  to  Mount  Ascutney, 
and  other  attractive  scenes  of  land  and 
water.  It  is  the  centre  of  a  fine  agricul- 
tural  and  wool-growing  neighborhood. 
There  is  an  excellent,  quiet,  summer 
hotel  here.  Windsor  is  the  seat  of  the 
Vermont  State  Prison^  and  the  terminus 
of  the  Vermont  Central  Railway,  from 
Burlington  through  the  valley  of  the 
Vv^inooski  Faver.  The  United  States 
Comt  House  and  Post-Office  is  a  spacious 
edifice. 

At  Windsor  the  Sullivan  road  ends, 
and  we  continue  our  journey  along  the 
Connecticut  (14  miles)  to  White  River 
Junction,  by  the  Vermont  Central  route. 

Hartland  and  North  Hariland  are  sta- 
tions between  Windsor  and  White  River 
Junction.  From  the  Otta  Queechee 
bridge  a  fine  view  of  the  fall  in  the  river 
is  obtained. 

White  River  Junction  is  the  point  of 
departure,  via  the  Connecticut  and  Pas- 
siimpsic  River  Raihoay,  for  Newport  and 
Lake  Memphremagog.  The  Junctioii 
House  has  good  accommodation.  From 
this  point  the  Vermont  Central  road 
continues,  via  North  field  and  Montpelier, 
to  Burlington.  Taking  the  former  route 
northward,  we  continue,  40  miles,  to 
Wells  River. 

Maaaover  is  four  miles  north  of 
V/hite  River  Jimction.  It  occupies  a 
broad  terrace,  180  feet  above  the  water. 
Here  is  the  venerable  Dartmouth  College, 
founded  in  1709,  and  named  in  honor  of 


been   erected 
be    visited, 
poem, 


"  Snow- 


William,  carl  of  Dartmoutli.  Webster, 
Choate,  Woodbury,  and  Chase,  present 
Chief  Justice,  were  of  the  alumni  of  this 
institution. 

The  college  buildings  are  grouped 
around  a  square  of  12  acres,  in  the  centre 
of  the  plain  upon  which  the  village  stands. 
A  new  hall  and  gymnasium  have  just 
The  Observatory/  should 
Wb.ittier's  last  'beautiful 
lionnd,"  presents  the  fol- 
lowing truthful  picture  of  the  Dartmouth 
schoolmaster : 

"  Brisk  wieldor  of  the  birch  and  rule, 
The  master  of  the  district  school, 
Held  at  the  fire,  his  favored  place, 
Its  warm  glow  lit  a  laughing  face, 
Fresh  hned  and  fair,  -where  scarce  appeared 
The  uncertain  prophecy  of  heard. 
He  played  the  old  and  simple  games 
Our  modern  boyhood  scarcely  nhmes, 
Sang  songs,  and  told  us  what  "befalls 
In  classic  Dartmouth's  college  halls. 
Born  the  wild  northern  hills  among, 
From  whence  his  yeoman  father  wrung, 
By  patient  toil,  subsistence  scant, 
Not  competence,  and  j-et  not  want, 
lie  early  gained  the  iiower  to  pay 
His  cheerful,  self-reliant  way  ; 
Could  doff  at  ease  his  scholar's  gown 
To  peddle  wares  from  town  to  town  ; 
Or,  through  the  long  vacation's  reach, 
In  lonely  lowland  districts  teach, 
Where  all  the  droll  experience  found 
At  stranger  hearths  in  boarding  round ; 
The  moonlit  skater's  keen  delight, 
The  sleigh-drive  through  the  frosty  night, 
The  rustic  party,  with  its  rough 
Accompaniment  of  blind  man's  bnff, 
And  whirling  plate,  and  forfeits  paid. 
His  winter  task  a  pastime  made." 

Norivicli,  Vermont,  on  the  west  side 
of  the  Connecticut,  is  the  seat  of  a 
University,  established  (1830)  by  Captuin 
Alden  Partridge  as  an  academy,  and 
chartered  in  1834.  The  university  build- 
ings stand  three-fourths  of  a  mile  west 
of  the  railway  depot.  The  main  building 
was  partially  destroyed  in  18G6. 

Pompanoosuc  (10  miles).  North  of  the 
station  are  fine  views  of  Moose  HiUoch  and 
Bcdd  Mountain.  The  scenery  of  the 
Connecticut  is  here  very  attractive. 

Bradford  (29  miles).  The  first  artifi- 
cial globe  in  the  United  States  was  made 
here  in  1812.  Passengers  for  Topsham, 
Corinth,  Orange,  and  Washington  leave 
the  main  line  here.  North  of  Bradford 
the  village  of  Haverhill,  and  Moose  Hil- 
lock, Sugar  Loaf,  and  IBlack  Mountains 
come  in  viev,'. 

Ncwhury  (3G  miles)  is  one  of  the  old- 

105 


Wells  River.] 


NEW   nAMPSHIRE. 


[Centre  IIarbor. 


est  and  most  attractive  places  in  the 
Upper  Connecticut  valley.  It  is  much 
frL'.jucntcd  for  its  sulphur  springs  and  the 
fine  views  it  commands.  The  Great  Ox- 
Bow,  north  of  the  village,  afibrds  a  pleas- 
ant ramble. 

^Vclls  liivcr,  Tl.— IIoTEL,  Coo- 
sac  Hoji.se. 

At  this  poi!\t  the  railway  route  to 
Littleton,  20  miles,  and  thence  by  stage 
to  the  White  Mountains,  diverges.  Ilere, 
too,  comes  in  the  Boston,  Concord,  and 
Hfontreal  route,  sending  its  passengers, 
via  Littleton  {Thayer'' s  Hotel),  to  the 
White  Kills,  or  onward,  by  the  Connecti- 
cut and  Fassuinpsic  road,  via  St.  Johns- 
bury,  to  Canada.  The  Connecticut  now 
assumes  the  appearance  of  a  mountain 
stream ;  the  railways  follow  its  bank  no 
farther,  and  we  leave  our  traveller  to  pro- 
ceed on  either  hand,  as  we  have  indicated, 
to  New  Hampshire,  or  to  Canada. 

Routes. — The  most  frequented,  and  al- 
together most  inviting  routs  to  the  White 
Mountains  is  that  by — 

ILialcc  IVisisaipi.'^aiil&iec. — The 

voyage  on  this  beautiful  lake  is  among 
the  most  agreeable  passages  in  our  pres- 
ent journey  to  the  White  Mountains,  and 
well  deserves  a  pilgrimage  to  itself  alone. 
Winnipisaukee  is  an  enchanting  reach  of 
pure,  translucent  waters,  very  irregular  in 
form,  some  25  miles  long  and  from  one  to 
ten  miles  wide.  It  is  crowded  with  ex- 
quisite island  groups,  indented  with  en- 
chanting bays  ;  and  bold  mountain  peaks 
cast  their  shadows  everywhere  into  its  still, 
deep  floods.  Weir's  (Bridge)  has  a  good 
hotel.  Tlie  steamer  "  Lady  of  the  Lake," 
Captain  Sanborn,  plies  daily  to  Centre 
Harbor,  Wolfboro,  etc.,  during  the  sea- 
son. Moimt  Belknap  and  Bear  and  Rat- 
tlesnake Islands  arc  seen  in  the  passage 
up  the  lake. 

Bed  Mountain,  a  remarkably  beautiful 
eminence,  about  2,500  feet  high,  is  situated 
northwest  of  Lake  Winnipisaukee.  The 
ascent  to  the  summit,  although  steep  and 
arduous,  can  be  cd'ected  for  a  portion  of 
the  distance  in  carriages,  and  all  the  way 
on  horseback.  From  the  southeast  there  is 
a  fine  panoramic  view  of  tlu;  lake  and  the 
adjacent  country.  In  order  to  obtain  the 
finest  views  of  the  lake  and  adjacent 
landscape,  the  ascent  should  be  made  in 
103 


the  forenoon,  or  in  the  evening  from  3  to 
5  o'clock.  At  the  latter  hour,  on  a  fine 
September  day,  the  view  of  the  lake  and 
its  islands  is  charming.  Beyond  the  lake 
extends — 

'•A  slnmb'rous  stretch  of  mountain-land,  far 

seen; 
When  the  low  westering  day  vrith  gold  and 

sreen, 
Purple  and  amber,  softly  blended,  fills 
The  wooded  vales  and  melts  among  the  hills." 

On  the  south  ascends  Mount  Major,  a 
ridge  of  a  bolder  aspect  and  loftier  height. 
On  the  northeast  the  great  Oasipee  raises 
its  chain  of  elevations,  with  a  bold  sublim- 
ity, and  looking  down  in  conscious  pride 
upon  the  regions  below  ;  while  Kcarsarge 
and  Monadnock  are  plainly  seen  to  the 
southwest. 

Sqiiam  Lake,  lying  west  from  Re<l 
Mountain,  and  two  miles  northwest  from 
Winnipisaukee  Lake,  is  another  splendid 
sheet  of  water.  It  is  about  six  miles  in 
length,  and  in  its  widest  part  not  less  tlsan 
three  miles  in  breadth,  and,  like  its  neigh- 
bor (Winnipisaukee),  is  studded  with  a 
succession  of  romantic  islands.  This  lake 
abounds  in  trout  of  the  finest  kind. 

Centre  llaa-bor, — Hotel,  Scn- 
ter  House. 

Centre  Harbor,  with  its  excellent  sum- 
mer hotel  upon  the  margin  of  Winnipi- 
saukee, is  the  halting-place  for  the  ex- 
plorer of  the  many  beauties  of  this  re- 
gion. White  Mountain  tourists  dine  here 
in  transitu,  and  proceed  by  the  early  traifl 
from  Boston  the  rest  of  the  way  by  stage- 
coach, first  for  thirty  miles  through  a 
country  of  picturesque  delights  to  Conway 
{Conica  11  House).  The  steamer  "  Choco- 
rua"  (Captain  A.  Wiggin)  plies  regularly 
between  Centre  Harbor,  Wolfboro,  Alton 
Bay,  and  the  different  points  on  Lake 
Winnipisaukee,  connecting  at  Alton  Bay 
with  trains  on  the  Cocheco  and  Boston 
and  Maine  Bailivat/s. 

Conway  Valley  is  a  wide  stretch  of 
delicious  intervale  lands  upon  the  Saco 
River,  hemmed  in  upon  all  sides  by  bold 
mountain  summits,  chief  among  which  are 
the  stern  clilfs  of  Mount  Washington  it- 
self It  is  a  delightful  place  for  artistic 
study  and  for  summer  residences ;  and 
within  a  few  years  past  it  has  been  a 
favorite  resort  of  the  American  landscape 
painters,  and  has  grown  to  be  a  veritable 
"  watering-place,"  in  the  great  number  of 


S'oRTH  Conway.] 


NEW  HAMrSniRE. 


[Plymodtii. 


tourists  who  not  only  pass,    but  linger 
A'itbin  its  borders. 

Noa-tlft  CoEi^way  is  situated  in  the 
■nost  picturesque  portion  of  this  valley. 
Here  are  two  good  hotels,  with  excel- 
ent  livery.  Besides  the  distant  views  of 
he  White  Mountain  ranges  proper,  which 
ire  of  surpassing  interest  here,  Conway 
s  full  of  local  and  neighboring  attrac- 
ions  of  the  greatest  beauty,  as  are  the 
)road  meadows,  and  the  wooded,  winding 
)anks  of  the  Saco  ;  the  nooks  and  turns  of 
he  Artists'  Brook,  and  other  elfish  waters ; 
he  Pequawket  Mountain ;  those  grand 
)erpendicular  cliff's,  650  and  950  feet  in 
leight,  called  the  Ledcies  ;  the  magnificent 
)eaks  of  Kearsarge  and  CMcorua  ;  the 
Z^alhcdral^  Echo  Lalce^  and  Diana's  Baih 
tre  all  within  the  range  of  an  easy  drive 
'rom  the  hotel.  The  Washingion  and 
■xearsage  hotels  at  North  Conway,  are 
rell-kept  houses.  Stages  leave  every 
QOrning  for  the  Glen  (21  miles),  and 
Irawford  (28  miles)  Houses.  Conway 
illage  and  Conway  Corners  are  a  few 
uiles  below  North  Conway.  They  are 
Qost  agreeable  resting-places,  en  roicfe, 
.mply  supphed  Avith  hotel  accommoda- 
ions.  Leaving  Conway,  as  the  tourist 
;enerally  does,  the  morning  following 
hat  of  his  departure  from  Boston,  he  con- 
inues  on  through  valley  and  over  bill,  28 
ailes,  to  the  Crawford  House,  where  we 
hall  meet  him  vvhen  we  have  followed 
iver  other  routes  to  the  threshold  of  the 
aounlains.  AVe  will,  however,  accompany 
lim  yet  on  his  journey  from  Conway, 
hrough  Bartlett  and  Jackson,  by  the  Old 
;irawford  House,  and  by  the  famous 
Villey  House,  the  scene  of  the  awful  ava- 
anche  of  1826,  when  the  entire  Willey 
amily  were  destroyed. 

Route  2.  From  Boston,  68  miles,  via 
jawrence  to  Dover,  N.  H.,  on  the  Boston 
md  Maine  Railroad.  Dover  is  a  pleas- 
int  town  of  some  8,000  people,  upon  the 
>anks  and  at  the  falls  of  the  Cocheco 
^iver,  a  tributary  of  the  Piscataqua.  Our 
oute  leads  hence  by  the  Cocheco  Rciil- 
•oad  to  Alton  Bay,  the  southern  ex- 
remity  of  Lake  Winnipisankee  (  Winni- 
nscogee  Hotel).  Mount  Belknap  (10 
niles)  and  Sharp's  Hill  afford  pleasant 
ixcursions.  Here  we  take  the  steamer 
'Chocorua"  for  Centre  Harbor  (30 
niles),  traversing  the  entire  length  of  the 


lake,  and  proceed  thence  via  Conway,  as 
in  lioute  1. 

Route  3.  From  Boston,  26  miles,  to 
iha  city  of  Lowell.  (See  Lowklt>.)  From 
Lowell,  15  miles,  to  Nashua — an  impor- 
tant manufacturing  town,  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Nashua  with  the  Merrimac 
River ;  thence,  35  miles,  to  Concord, 
N.  H.,  and  from  Concord  to  Weir's  and 
Centre  Harbor,  on  Lake  Winnipisankee, 
and  on  via  Conway,  as  in  Routes  1  and  2. 

Route  4.  From  Boston,  as  in  Route  1, 
or  3,  to  Weir's,  on  Lake  Winnipismikee, 
thence  on,  Avithout  stopping,  to  Phmouih 
(Femigewassd  House)^  where  passengers 
dine  and  take  stage  for  the  rest  of  the 
way ;  or  where  they  remain  all  night,  if 
they  leave  Boston  by  the  noon  instead  of 
the  morning  train. 

IPlyMioni^Sa,  —  Hotel,  Petnigeivas- 
set.  Plymouth  is  in  the  midst  of  a 
noble  mountain  landscape,  being  the  ex- 
treme southern  threshold  of  the  Fran- 
conia  range  of  the  White  Bills.  It  is 
upon  the  banks  of  the  beautiful  Pemige- 
wasset  River,  near  its  confluence  with 
Baker's  River.  From  Wall-er'^s  Hill  a  fine 
view  of  the  village  is  had.  Mount  Pros- 
pect commands  more  extended  views. 
The  Liverniore  Falls  should  be  visited. 

Waterville^  13  miles  distant,  is  a  de- 
liirhtful  village  retreat.  Good  trout-fish- 
ing  in  the  neighborhood.  The  D(vil-s 
Dew,  a  cave  situated  in  Campton  Hollow, 
six  miles  from  Plymouth,  is  sometimes 
visited  by  tourists  who  tarry  in  this 
nei2:hborhood. 

The  Wells  River  and  Littleton  route 
from  Boston  to  the  mountains  by  the 
Avest  passes  Plymouth.  Leaving  Plpn- 
outli  in  the  stage,  after  dinner,  we  reach 
the  Flume  House,  at  the  Franconia  Notch, 
24  miles  distant,  or  Profile  House,  29 
miles,  the  same  evening,  unless  we  stop 
by  the  way,  as  would  be  very  reasonable — 
for  the  whole  journey  is  through  most 
inviting  spots  and  places.  The  Aillages 
on  the  route  are  small,  and  there  is  not 
a  fashionable  hotel  in  all  the  distance  un- 
til we  reach  the  Flume ;  but  there  are  nu- 
merous small  iims,  Avhere  artists  and  their 
families  are  well  content  to  pass  the  sum- 
mer.    There  is  such  a  one  at 

^Vest  Campion,  a  little  hamlet 
on  the  Pemigcwassct  River,  seven  miles 
above  Plymouth.     West  Campton  is  be- 

lOY 


GORHAM.] 


NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 


[White  Mountains. 


coming  a  greater  resort  of  the  landscape 
painters  than  North  Conway,  on  the  south- 
cast  slope  of  the  mountains,  has  been  for 
several  years  past.  The  views  here,  of 
the  Franconia  Hills,  are  especially  fine, 
and  the  river  and  brook  landscape,  with 
its  wealth  and  variety  of  vegetation,  is  of 
extraordinary  interest.  The  Pemigewas- 
set  lUvcr,  v/hich  rises  among  the  little 
lakes  of  the  Francouia  Mountains,  winds 
through  all  tlie  wonderful  valley  which 
we  traverse  between  Plymouth  and  the 
Flume  House.  We  shall  rejoin  our 
tourists,  by-and-by,  at  the  Llume. 

Route  5.  Via  Portland,  and  through 
Maine,  on  the  east  side  of  the  mounti'.iua. 
This  route  is  a  pleasant  appi-oach  to  the 
White  Hills,  but  more  circuitous  from 
New  Yoi'k  or  Boston,  than  either  of  the 
Routes  I  to  4.  The  Boston  and  Maine 
and  Eastern  Raihcays^  and  the  boat  route 
from  Boston  to  Portland  afford  constant 
and  ready  communication  between  these 
cities.  From  Portland  our  present  route 
is  by  tlie  Grand  Tnmk  Railway^  91 
miles  to  Gorham,  N.  H.  (See  Portland 
for  routes  thence.) 

^oi'Isssisa,  —  Alpine  Home,  J.  R. 
Hitchcock.  Mounls  Moriah,  Carter,  and 
Hayes,  Randolph  IliV,  Birlin  Falls,  and 
Lanfs  arc  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  and 
should  be  visited  if  the  tourist  has  time. 

'E'Bae  ^Icsa  SSoBa»<^  is  our  next 
point,  eight  miles  by  stage  from  Gorham; 
fare  -$1  (sec  Hotels). 


THE  WHITE  MOUNTATXS. 

These  mountains  cover  an  area  of 
about  40  miles  ."-quare,  in  Coos  County, 
Northern  New  Hampslure;  though  the 
Dame  of  White  Mountains  is,  in  the 
neighborhood,  given  to  the  central  group 
onlj' — the  lutlf-dozcn  lofty  peaks,  of  which 
Mount  Waslnngton  is  the  royal  head  and 
front.  These  noble  hill-ranges  have  earned 
for  this  region  the  title  of  the  "  Switzer- 
land of  America."  Their  ])recise  latitude 
is  40'  16'  34  L"  north,  and  longitude 
71°  20'  west.  The  western  cluster  is 
contra-di.«^tingnishcd  as  the  Franconia 
range.  Tlic  White  Mountains  (spccili- 
cally  so  called)  extend  from  the  Notch,  in 
a  northeasterly  direction,  some  14  miles, 
increasing  from  each  cud  of  the  line 
108 


gradually  in  height  toward  Mount  Wash- 
ington, in  the  centre.  These  respective 
elevations  are,  in  the  order  in  which 
they  stand,  beginning  at  the  Notch : 
Mount  Webster,  4,000  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea ;  Jackson,  4,100  ;  Clinton, 
4,200 ;  Pleasant,  4,800  ;  FrankUn,  4,900  ; 
Monroe,  5,300 ;  Washington,  6,285 ; 
Clay,  5,400;  Adams,  5,8oO;  Jefferson, 
5, 710;  and  Madison,  5,361.  They  were 
first  visited  by  whites,  according  to  Bel- 
knap, the  State  historian,  by  Walter 
Neal,  in  1632.  Their  aboriginal  name 
was  Aglochooh  or  Agiocochook,  signify- 
ing "  Mountain  of  the  Snowy  Forthead 
and  Home  of  the  Great  Spirit."  We  ^^ill 
suppose  our  tourist  to  have  made  his  ap- 
proach by  the  usuidly  travelled  route, 
?'.  e.,  from  the  southeast  to  the  Central 
or  ^Vhite  Mountain  group,  via  Lake  Win- 
nipisaukee  and  Conway  valley,  and  thus 
meet  him  at  the  Crawford  House,  near 
the  Great  Notch. 

'r2ie  Hotels,— Tlie  Alpine  House 
at  Gorham,  and  the  Glen  House,  we 
have  already  briefly  spoken  of.  The 
Crawford  House — a  most  excellent  estab- 
lishment— bears  the  name  of  the  earliest 
hosts  of  these  mountain  gorges.  The 
story  of  the  adventures  and  endurance  of 
the  early  settlers  here  is  extremely  inter- 
esting— how  Captain  Eleazar  Rosebrook, 
of  Massachusetts,  built  a  house  on  the  site 
of  the  Giant's  Grave,  four  miles  from  tlic 
Notch,  afterward  occupied  by  Fabyan's 
Mour.t  "Washington  Hotel — liow  his  near- 
est neighbors  were  20  miles  away,  cxcept- 
inir  the  Crawford  family,  12  miles  down 
in  the  Notch  valley,  the  site  of  the  pres- 
ent old  Crawford  House,  at  the  base  of 
the  mountains  coming  from  Conway,  on 
the  southeast — how  the  Rosebrook  chil- 
dren were  often  sent,  for  family  supplies, 
over  the  long  and  dangerous  path  to  Craw- 
fords',  retuining,  not  unfrequcntly,  late  at 
night — how  Ethan  Allen  Crawford  was 
heir  to  the  Rosebrook  estate,  and  how  he 
bccan)e  knov/n  as  the  "  Giant  of  the 
Hills  " — how  he  and  his  family  made  the 
first  mountain  paths,*  and  were  ibr  long 
years  the  only  guides  over  them  of  the 
rare  visitors  v\'liich  the  brief  summers 
brouglit — and  how  they  have  since  seen 
their  home  thronged,  for  weeks  together, 

*  The  first  bridle-path  was   cut  by  Ethan 
Crawford,  in  1S21. 


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indPBSSffl*    Irom    each    end    of   the    line  |  Crawford,  in  1821. 
108 


Hotels.] 


NEW   IIAMrSIITRE. 


[Franconia  Hills. 


like  a  city  saloon,  with  beauty  and  fashion. 
The  Cravt'fords  are  a  lav;^e,  athletic  race. 
Abel,  the  father,  called  the  "I'atriarch 
of  the  i^lountains,"  would  walk  five 
mountain  miles  to  his  son's  before  break- 
fast, at  the  age  of  80.  At  '70,  he  made 
the  first  ascent  ever  made  on  horse- 
back to  the  top  of  Mount  Washington. 
His  sons  were  all  over  six  feet  tall,  one 
of  them  was  six  and  a  half  feet ;  and  an- 
other, Ethan  Allen,  was  seven  feet  in 
height. 

The  Glen  House  occupies  a  delightful 
locale  in  the  valley  of  the  Peabody 
Kiver,  immediately  under  Mount  Wash- 
ington, and  in  full  view  of  the  loftiest 
summits  in  the  whole  mountain  district. 
The  house  is  situated  830  feet  above 
Gorham,  1,632  feet  above  tide-water,  in 
Bcllovt's's  clearing,  which  contains  about 
100  acres.  The  house  has  been  enlarged, 
refurnished,  and  has  accommodation  for 
1,000  guests.  For  a  base  view  of  the 
mountains  no  spot  could  be  selected  so 
good.  Several  huge  mountains  show 
themselves  proudly  to  view,  in  front  of 
the  piazza,  nothing  intervening  to  ob- 
scure their  giant  forms.  You  can  see 
them  before  you  in  all  their  noble,  calm, 
and  silent  grandeur,  severally  seeming  the 
repose  of  power  and  strength.  A  little 
to  the  left  is  Mount  V/ashingion.  To- 
ward the  right  of  its  rock-crowned  sum- 
mit ri:?c,  in  full  view,  the  celebrated 
peaks  of  Adams  and  Jejfkrsori — the  one 
pointed,  the  other  rounded.  On  both 
"wings  of  these  towering  summits  are  the 
tops  of  lesser  elevations.  In  the  opposite 
direction,  fronting  the  "patriot  group" 
of  gigantic  forms,  is  the  long,  irregular 
outline  of  the  Carlcr  Mountains. 

A  wide,  well-macadamized  road,  eight 
miles  long,  has  v,'ithin  a  few  years  been 
finished  from  the  Glen  to  the  top  of 
Mount  Washington,  at  a  cost  of  $100,000, 
and  the  ascent  is  now  made  daily  in 
comfortable  Concord  coaches  in  three 
hours.  From  three  to  four  hours  for  pe- 
destrians is  considered  good  time.  The 
distance  has  been  made  in  much  less  by 
old  mountaineers.  The  best  time  to  make 
the  ascent  is  between  two  and  five  o'clock 
p.  M.,  though  the  majority  go  in  the  fore- 
noon. The  Tip  Jb/>  and  Summit  Houses, 
J.  R.  Hitchcock,  proprietor,  are  as  well 
kept  as  the  very  hmited  markets   and 


means  of  transportation  will  permit. 
Charges,  $1.50  for  breakfast,  dinner,  or 
tea,  and  $;].60for  bed.  The  sunset  and 
sunrise  views  from  these  points  are  ex- 
ceeding fine  in  favorable  weather.  Stages 
leave  the  Glen  House  for  the  Crawford 
House  by  the  Cherry  Mountain  road,  at 
eight  o'cloclc  every  morning. 

The  Willey  House  is  passed  sonic  miles 
below  the  Crawford,  at  the  commence- 
ment of  the  ascent  to  the  Notch.  The  sj.ot 
will  be  forever  of  memorable  interti-t, 
from  its  tragic  story  of  the  fearful  ava- 
lanches of  1826,  when  the  entire  family 
which  then  occupied  the  house — Mr.  Wil- 
ley,  his  wife,  five  children,  and  two  hired 
men — were  all  buried  beneath  the  mighty 
dehris  of  the  mountain-slides. 

'Flic  l^'^i-iaiacosilalSills,  though 
in  popular  estimatitm  inferior  in  interest 
to  the  eastern  cluster,  are  really  not  so, 
except  it  be  in  the  wonders  of  the  moun- 
tain ascents ;  and  even  in  this,  the  pan- 
orama, from  the  summit  o{  Lafayette,  is 
scarcely  less  extensive  or  less  imposing 
than  the  scene  from  the  crown  of  Mount 
Washington,  while  the  exquisite  little 
lakes,  and  the  singular  natural  eccentrici- 
ties in  the  Franconia  group,  have  no 
counterpart  in  the  other.  In  this,  as  in 
other  ranges  of  the  White  Hills,  the 
mountains  are  densely  wooded  at  their 
base,  while  their  rock-ribbed  svmimits  are 
barren,  and  scarred  by  time  and  tempest. 
The  hills  approach,  at  one  point,  to  with- 
in half  a  mile  of  each  other,  and  form 
the  wild  Procrustean  portal,  called  the 
Notch.  The  headquarters  for  tourists  to 
the  Franconia  Hills  during  the  past 
season  has  been  the  Frojile  House.  The 
Flume  House.^  it  is  hoped,  v/ill  be  open 
this  season  (186'7). 

Moitnt  E^als^yette,  or  the  Great 
Haystack,  is  the  monarch  of  the  Fran- 
conia kingdom,  towering  iip  skyward  to 
the  height  of  5,280  feet.  Its  lofty  pyra- 
midal peaks  are  the  chief  objects,  in  all 
views,  for  many  miles  around. 

Eagle  Cliff  \s  a  magnificently  bold  and 
rocky  promontory,  near  Mount  Lafayette. 
It  casts  its  dark  shadows  down  many 
hundred  feet  into  the  glen,  traversed  by 
the  road  beneath. 

Cenmon,  or  Profde  Mountain,  2,000 
feet  above  the  road,  and  4,000  above  the 
sea,   is  nearlv  opposite   Lafayette,   and 

109 


The  Profile  Rock.] 


NEW   HAMPSHIRE. 


[The  Flume. 


forms  the  vrestern  side  of  the  Notch. 
Away  up  upon  its  crown  is  a  group  of 
mighty  rocks,  which,  as  seen  from  the 
Prolile  House  belovr,  bear  an  exact  re- 
scmbUmce  to  a  mounted  cannon.  It  is 
upon  this  mountain,  also,  that  we  find 
that  marvellous  freak  of  Nature — 

Echo  Lake,  one  of  the  greatest  charms 
of  this  part  of  the  White  Mountain  region. 
It  is  a  diminutive  but  very  deep  and  beau- 
tiful pond,  north  of  the  Cannon  Moun- 
tain, entirely  enclosed  by  high  mountains. 
Prom  the  centre  of  this  fairy  water,  a 
voice,  in  ordinary  tone,  will  be  echoed 
distinctly  several  times,  and  the  report 
of  a  gun  breaks  upon  the  rocks  Uke  the 
roar  of  artillery.  The  Indian  superstition 
was,  that  these  echoes  were  the  voice  of 
the  Great  Spirit,  speaking  in  gentleness 


or  in  anger. 


TTlie  E*r©iilc  ISocls;  or,  tlic 
OS<i2.  I^Isasa  of  tlsie  MotiiitaiBa. — 

This  wonderful  eccentricity,  so  admirably 
counterfeiting  a  human  face,  is  80  feet 
long  from  the  chin  to  the  top  of  the 
forehead,  and  is  1,200  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  road,  being  yet  far  below  the 
summit  of  the  mountain.  This  strange 
apparition  is  formed  of  three  distinct 
masses  of  rock,  one  making  the  forehead, 
another  the  nose  and  upper  lip,  and  a 
third  the  chin.  The  rocks  are  brought 
into  the  proper  relation  to  form  the  pro- 
file, at  one  point  only,  viz.,  upon  the  road 
through  the  Notch,  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
south  of  the  Proiile  House.  The  face  is 
boldly  and  clearly  relieved  against  the 
sky,  and,  except  in  a  little  sentiment  of 
weakness  about  the  mouth,  has  the  air 
of  a  stern,  strong  character,  well  able  to 
bear,  as  he  has  done  unflinchingly  for 
centuries,  the  scorching  suns  of  summer 
and  the  tempest  blasts  of  wmter.  Pass- 
ing down  the  road  a  little  way,  the  "Old 
Man "  is  transformed  into  a  "  toothless 
old  woman  in  a  mob  cap.;  "  and,  soon 
after,  melts  into  thin  air,  and  is  seen  no 
more.  Hawthorne  has  found  in  this 
scene  the  theme  of  one  of  the  plcasantest 
of  his  "  Twice-Told  Tales,"  that  called 
"  The  Old  Stone  Face." 

The  Frofilc  Lake  is  a  beautiful  little 
pond,  lying  at  the  base  of  the  mountain, 
and  immediately  under  the  ever-watchful 
eye  of  the  stern  "  Old  Man."  This  lake- 
let is  sometimes  called  the  "  Old  Man's 
110 


Wash-bowl."  It  is  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
long  and  about  half  as  wide.  Bald  Moun- 
tain, to  the  summit  of  which  a  carriage- 
road  has  recently  been  built,  affords  an- 
other pleasant  excursion  from  the  Profile 
House. 

The  Basin,  another  remarkable  scene 
of  this  neighborhood,  is  five  miles  south 
of  the  Notch.  It  lies  near  the  road-side, 
where  the  Pemigewasset  has  worn  deep 
and  curious  cavities  in  the  solid  rocks. 
The  basin  is  45  feet  in  diameter,  and  18 
feet  from  the  edge  to  the  bottom  of  the 
water.  It  is  nearly  circular,  and  has 
been  gradually  made  by  the  whirling  of 
rocks  round  and  round  in  the  strong  cur- 
rent. The  water,  as  it  comes  from  the 
basin,  falls  into  most  charming  cascades. 
At  the  outlet,  the  lower  edge  of  the  rocks 
has  been  worn  into  a  very  remarkable 
likeness  of  the  human  leg  and  foot,  called 
the  "  Old  Man's  Leg." 

The  Flume,  the  last  and  most  famous, 
perhaps,  of  all  the  Pranconia  wonders,  is 
quickly  and  easily  reached  from  the 
Flume  House.  Leaving  the  road,  just 
below  the  Basin,  we  turn  to  the  left 
among  the  hills,  and  after  a  tramp  of  a 
mile,  reach  a  bare  granite  ledge  100  feet 
high  and  about  30  feet  wide,  over  which 
a  small  stream  makes  its  varied  way. 
Near  the  top  of  this  ledge  we  approach 
the  ravine  known  as  the  Flume.  The 
rocky  walls  here  are  50  feet  in  height, 
and  not  more  than  20  feet  apart.  Through 
this  grand  fissure  comes  the  little  brook 
which  we  have  just  seen.  Except  in 
seasons  of  freshets,  the  bed  of  the  stream 
is  narrow  enough  to  give  the  visitor  dry 
passage  up  the  curious  glen,  which  ex- 
tends several  hundred  feet,  the  walls  ap- 
proaching, near  the  upper  extremity,  to 
within  10  or  11  feet  of  each  other. 
About  midway,  a  tremendous  bowlder, 
several  tons  in  weight,  hangs  suspended 
between  the  cliffs,  where  it  has  been 
caught  in  its  descent  from  the  mountaui 
above.  A  bridge,  dangerous  for  a  timid 
step,  has  been  sprung  across  the  ravine, 
near  the  top,  by  the  falling  of  a  forest- 
tree. 

Ascent  of  Mownt  "^"aslt- 
ifiig'toai.  —  Tourists  approaching  the 
^Vilitc  Mountains  from  the  east,  via  Gor- 
ham,  will  of  course  make  the  ascent  of 
Mount  Washington  from  the  Glen,  which 


Ascent  of  Mt.  Washington.]    NEW  IIAMrSIIIRE. 


[Tuckerman's  Ravine. 


is  much  the  easiest  and  most  expeditious 
(see  Glen  House).  The  journey  i'rom 
the  Crawford  House  is  nine  miles,  made 
on  the  backs  of  Canadian  ponies,  over 
the  old  Crawford  bridle-paths.  The  ex- 
cursion occupies  a  long  day,  with  the 
utmost  industry.  We  made  it,  on  one 
occasion,  in  midsummer,  with  a  party  of 
thirty  ladies  and  gentlemen,  besides  our 
guides,  and  it  was  a  gay  scene — the  get- 
ting en  route — and  a  singular  cavalcade 
miles  onward  as  we  wound,  in  Indian  file, 
cautiously  along  the  rugged,  narrow  path, 
trusting  to  our  sure-footed  ponies  to  v/alk 
with  us  upon  their  backs  over  logs,  and 
rocks,  and  chasms,  which  we  would  not 
have  dared  to  leap  ourselves  ;  and  sur- 
prising was  the  picture,  as  we  at  length 
bivouacked,  and  ate  our  grateful  lunch, 
upon  the  all-seeing  crest  of  the  grand  old 
mountain.  At  another  time  we  ascended 
in  the  middle  of  October,  when  we  could 
muster  no  larger  group  than  our  friend, 
ourself,  and  our  guide.  For  two  miles 
from  the  summit  the  way  was  blocked 
with  snow ;  so  we  left  our  ponies  to  take 
care  of  themselves,  and  completed  the 
tramp  on  foot.  The  following  are  the 
relative  distances  from  the  several  moim- 
tain  houses  to  the  Tip  Top,  on  Mount 
Washington:  Alpine  House,  15  miles; 
Brabrook's,  10 ;  Fabyan's,  9 ;  Crawford, 
9 ;  Glen,  7. 

The  view  from  the  summit  has  been 
thus  described :  In  the  west,  through 
the  blue  haze,  are  seen,  in  the  distance, 
the  ranges  of  the  Green  Mountains ;  the 
remarkable  outlines  of  the  summits  of 
Cam.eVs  Hump  and  Mansijield  Mountains 
being  easily  distinguished  when  the  at- 
mosphere is  clear.  To  the  northwest, 
under  your  leet,  are  the  clearings  and 
settlement  of  Jcjferson,  and  the  waters  of 
Cherry  Pond ;  and,  farther  distant,  the 
village  of  Lancaster^  with  the  waters  of 
IsraePs  River.  The  Connecticut  is  barely 
visible;  and  often  its  appearance  for 
miles  is  counterfeited  by  the  fog  aris- 
ing from  its  surface.  To  the  north  and 
northeast,  only  a  few  miles  distant,  rise 
up  boldly  the  great  northeastern  peaks 
of  the  White  Mountain  range — Jeffer- 
son^ Adams,  and  Mrxdison — with  their 
ragged  tops  of  loose  dark  rocks.  A  little 
farther  to  the  east  are  seen  the  nu- 
merous and  distant  summits  of  the  moun- 


tains of  Maine.  On  the  southeast,  close 
at  hand,  are  the  dark  and  crowded  ridges 
of  the  mountains  of  Jackson  ;  and  be- 
yond, the  conical  summit  of  Kearsargc^ 
standing  by  itself,  on  the  outskirts  of  the 
mountains;  and,  farther  over,  the  low 
country  of  Maine  and  Sehago  Fond,  near 
Portland.  Still  farther,  it  is  said,  the 
ocean  itself  has  sometimes  been  distinctly 
visible.  The  White  Mountains  are  often 
seen  from  the  sea,  even  at  30  miles  dis- 
tance from  the  shore;  and  nothing  can 
prevent  the  sea  from  being  seen  from  the 
mountains,  but  the  difficulty  of  distin- 
guishing its  appearance  from  that  of  the 
sky  near  the  horizon.  Farther  to  the 
south  are  the  intervals  of  the  Saco,  and 
the  settlements  of  Bartlett  and  Conirai/, 
the  sister  ponds  of  LovcU,  in  Fryburg  ; 
and,  still  farther,  the  remarkable  four- 
toothed  summit  of  the  Chocorua,  the  peak 
to  the  right  being  much  largest,  and 
sharply  pyramidal.  Almost  exactly  south 
are  the  shining  waters  of  the  beautiful 
Winnipisaukee,  seen  with  the  greatest  dis- 
tinctness on  a  favorable  day.  To  the  south- 
west, near  at  hand,  are  the  peaks  of  the 
southwestern  range  of  the  White  Moun- 
tains ;  Monroe,  v/ith  its  two  little  alpine 
ponds  sleeping  under  its  rocky  and  point- 
ed summits  ;  the  flat  surface  of  Franklin, 
and  the  rounded  top  of  Fleasant,  with 
their  ridges  and  spurs.  Beyond  these,  the 
Willey  Mountain,  with  its  high,  ridged 
summit ;  and,  beyond  that,  several  paral- 
lel ranges  of  high-wooded  mountains. 
Farther  west,  and  over  all,  is  seen  the 
high,  bare  summit  of  Mount  Lafayette,  in 
Franconia.  Visitors  to  Mount  Washing- 
ton should  always  go  well  clad.  The 
range  of  the  thermometer  even  in  mid- 
summer is  from  30°  to  45°.  It  fre- 
quently falls  as  low  as  25°,  and  some- 
times to  20°,  or  10°  below  freezing. 

"S'liclcemiaia's  Msiviiae  is  a 
marvellous  place,  seen  in  the  ascent  ot 
the  mountains,  by  the  Davi^  Foad  lead- 
ins;  from  the  Crawford  House.  It  lies 
upon  the  right  in  passing  over  the  high 
spur  directly  southeast  of  Mount  Wiish- 
ington.  Turning  aside,  the  edge  of  the 
precipice  is  reached,  and  may  be  descended 
by  a  rugged  pathway.  It  is  a  long,  deep 
gien,  with  frowning  walls,  often  quite  in- 
accessible. It  is  filled,  hundreds  of  feet 
deep,  by  the  winter  snows,  through  which 

111 


The  GiiEAT  Notch.] 


NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 


[The  Devil's  Den. 


a  brook  Fteals,  as  suramer  suns  draw 
near,  f;railually  vridening  its  channel,  un- 
til it  flows  through  a  grand  snow  cave, 
which  was  found,  one  season,  by  measure- 
ment, to  be  SI  (ect  wide  on  the  insidn,  40 
feet  high,  and  180  feet  long.  The  snow 
forming  the  arch  was  20  feet  thick.  The 
engineeis  of  the  carriage-road  dined  in 
that  snow-arch  July  IG,  1854. 

Oalrs's  Gulf  is  another  fathomless 
cavern,  seen,  far  down  on  the  right,  in 
windinti  around  the  summit  of  ilount 
Moai'oe.  Near  the  summit  of  Mount 
Washington,  a  few  rods  northvv-ard,  is 
yet  another  black  aby.-=s,  which  is  called 
the  G'u'f  of  Mexico.  Its  descent  here  is 
2,000  feet,  rugged  and  precipitous.  Much 
as  we  have  necessarily  left  unseen  on 
the  mountains,  we  must  now  descend, 
and  with  a  hasty  peep  at  some  yet  un- 
mcntioned  scenes,  in  the  vicinage  of  the 
Notch,  pass  on,  36  miles,  to  the  iYau- 
conia  range,  in  the  west. 

'I'^iae  €jJi*oiit  x^'oadi  forms  one  of 
the  most  interesting  and  most  popular 
features  of  the  White  Mountain  scenery. 
The  Crawford  HoQse  is  the  best  point 
from  which  to  visit  it  and  the  numerous 
other  points  in  its  vicinity.  Proceeding 
up  the  Saco,  Mount  Crawford  and  the 
GlanCs  S'airs  are  distinctly  visible  be- 
yond the  river  on  the  right.  The  southern 
peak  of  Mount  Crawford  is  3,200  feet 
high,  and  the  northern  3,500.  Bctvreen 
tiiein  Aiounl  Jicsolntion  rears  its  head. 
The  mountains,  which  have  gradually 
gathered  about  us  in  our  steep  ascent, 
here  have  all  closed  in.  The  magnifi- 
cent pass — the  gateway  of  the  Notcli — is 
a  chasm  between  two  perpendicular 
masses  of  rock,  approaching  each  other 
to  within  22  feet.  It  was  discovered 
(1771)  by  two  hunters,  Nash  and  Sawyer. 
Colonel  Whipple,  of  Portsmouth,  came 
through  the  following  year,  as  the  first 
i^cttler.  This  was  the  tenth  turnpike 
built  in  the  Stale,  and  was  incorporated 
in  1803.  Dark  overhanging  clilis  stand 
as  eenlinels  over  this  solemn  pass, 
and  it  has  been  a  work  of  toil  to  cut  a 
pathway  through  the  frowning  barrier. 
Tliis  gorge  is  some  three  miles  long,  de- 
scending the  valley  of  the  Saco,  toward 
the  Willey  House,  the  scene  of  the  ava- 
lanche (August  28,  1820),  by  which  the 
inmates,  nine  in  number,  were  lost.  The 
112 


house  has  stood  since  1793.  Upon  the 
north,  the  bold  cliffs  of  Jlount  Willai'd 
rse  to  the  heiirht  of  2,000  feet  above  the 
Crawford  House  and  the  quiet  vales 
around  it.  The  view  from  this  eminence 
is  one  of  the  finest,  if  not  the  finest,  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  Crawford. 

I'Sic  Silver  Cascsule,  some- 
times called  the  "  Second  Flume,"  is  a 
favorite  s-jeue,  about  half  a  mile  south  of 
the  entrance  to  the  Notch.  It  is  one  of 
the  most  charming  waterfalls  imaginable, 
seen  from  the  piazza  of  the  hotel,  at  a 
distance  of  two  miles,  bubbling  down  the 
mountain  side,  800  feet  above  the  neigh- 
boring valley.  The  best  view  is  from  the 
bridge.  SparMing  Cascade  and  St/lvan 
Grove  Cataract,  on  Avalanche  Brook,  dis- 
covered 1858,  should  be  visited,  if  time 
permit. 

Tlae  Fiiasaic  is  another  cascade  yet 
farther  dov/n  the  Notch.  It  descends 
250  feet,  in  two  rills,  over  two  precipices, 
and  there  are  three  streams  over  a  land 
ledge,  reuniting  in  a  small  rocky  basin 
below. 

I'lie  3>evii's  l>02i  is  a  mysteri- 
ous cavern,  near  the  top  of  Mount  Wil- 
lard,  OD  its  southern  side,  and  opposite 
the  Silver  and  the  Flume  cascades.  Pass- 
ing westward  from  the  Notch,  we  reach 
the  vallev  of  the  Ammonoosuc.  after  a 
distance  of  four  miles,  through  dense 
woods,  and  cuter  abruptly  into  a  spacious 
clearing,  from  which  the  whole  mountain 
group  bursts  upon  our  wondering  sight. 
Here,  upon  the  Gianfs  Grave,  an  emi- 
nence of  some  GO  feet,  the  panorama  is 
marvellous.  In  the  centre  of  the  amphi- 
theatre of  hills  Mount  Washington,  bar- 
ren, and  seamed,  and  whitened  by  the 
winter  tempests  of  centuries,  looks 
dov/n,  upon  the  right  and  upon  the  left, 
on  the  hoary  heads  of  Webster  and  Madi- 
son— each,  on  its  side,  the  outpost  of  the 
mountain  army. 

rising  in  this  group  of  the  White 
Mountains,  and  followe  1  in  the  journey 
toward  the  Franconia  Hills,  is  a  stream 
of  wonderful  beauty.  It  falls  6,000  feet 
from  its  source  on  the  mountain,  to  the 
Connecticut  River,  and  is  said  to  be  the 
wildest  and  most  impetuous  river  in  New 
llainpshire.  It  abounds  in  rapids  and 
cascades. 


The  Crystal  Falls.] 


NEW  HAMPSniRE. 


[Distances,  ktc. 


TIac  Crystal  l^alls,  of  80  feet, 
and  the  Glen  EJlis  Falls^  of  70  feet,  are 
on  the  Ellis  River,  the  one  on  the  left 
and  the  other  on  the  right  of  the  road 
from  Jackson  to  the  Glen  House.  The 
Ilermifs  Lake,  Lake  of  the  Chuds  (the 
source  of  the  Aramonoosuc  lliver),  Star 
Lake^  and  Spauldingh  Lake  are  readily 
reached  from  the  Tip  Top  House ^  Mount 
Washington. 

The  Fool.,  a  supplemental  or  tail  piece 
to  the  great  picture  of  the  Flume,  is  a 
deep  natural  well  in  the  solid  rock.  A 
walk  of  about  a  mile,  directly  in  front  of 
the  Flume  House,  will  conduct  the  visitor 
thither.  The  diameter  of  the  pool  is 
about  60  feet ;  the  depth  to  the  surface 
of  the  water  is  150  feet,  and  the  water 
itself  extends  40  feet  yet  below.  Some 
years  ago,  a  poor  fellow  was  unlucky 
enou2:h  to  fall  into  this  Plutonian  cid  de 

CI 

sa,c,  but  he  clung  to  a  crag  just  above  the 
water  until  ropes  were  lowered,  and  he 
was,  wonderful  to  relate,  fished  up  alive, 
though  bruised  and  not  a  little  scared. 

1'Iae  I^ixvilie  IlilJs  are  in  the 
extreme  northern  portion  of  the  State, 
and  are  as  yet  but  little  known.  The 
readiest  access  is  by  the  Grand  Trunk 
Bailwai/  and  North  Strafford,  36  miles 
north  of  Gorham,  and  thence  up  the  Con- 
necticut River,  via  Colebrook,  to  the 
Monadnock  House.  Dixville  Notch  is  10 
miles  from  Colebrook. 


Yfe  have  now  peeped  hastily  at  the 
leading  points  of  interest  in  the  grand 
Granite  Hills ;  much  more,  of  course,  is  to 
be  seen  than  we  have  space  to  describe, 
or  even  mention.  Before  closing  our 
chapter,  however,  we  give  a  tabular  list 
of  the  principal  mountain-heights  and 
objects  of  interest,  with  their  distances 
from  eacli  other. 


BEAEING  AND   DISTANCES  OF  WHITE 
MOUNTAINS. 

From  Mount  Washington 

4  miles,  n.  by  e. 
8    do.  N.  by  .w. 

5  do.  K.   JV.   E. 
1    do.  N.  w. 

1  do.  s.   w. 

2  do.  8.    TV. 

3  do.  8.   vf. 

4  do.  8.   w. 


HEIGHT,  BEARING,  AND  DISTANCE 

Of  the  less  important  White  Mountains,  and 
other  mountains  in  the  vicinity,  from  Mount 
Washington. 


To  Moun 

t  Adams, 

do. 

Jefferson, 

do. 

Madison, 

do. 

Clay, 

do. 

Monroe, 

do. 

Franklin, 

do. 

Pleasant, 

do. 

Clinton, 

Davis's  Spnr, 
Notch  Eange, 
Willey  Mountain, 
Mount  Jackson. 
Mount  Webster, 
Giant's  Stairs, 
Mount  (/rawford. 
Mount  Mori  ah, 
Franconia  Mount, 
Mount  Lafayette, 
Twin  Mountains, 
Mount  Carigain, 
Moose-hillock, 
Saddle  Mountain, 
Mount  Kinsman, 
Mount  Cannon, 
Mount  Whiteface, 
Chicorua, 
Kearsarge, 


Distance. 

2 

miles, 

8 

do. 

8 

do. 

6 

do. 

7 

do. 

8 

do. 

9 

do. 

7 

do. 

20 

do. 

19 

do. 

14 

do. 

14 

do. 

31 

do. 

22 

do. 

25 

do. 

20 

do. 

24 

do. 

22 

do. 

15 

do. 

Height. 

5.400  feet. 
4,500  do. 
4,400  do. 
4,100  do. 
4,000  do. 
3.500  do. 
8,200  do. 
4,700  do. 
5,000  do. 
5,200  do. 
4,700,  5,000  do. 
4,800  do. 
4,600  do. 
4,000  do. 
4,100  do. 
4.000  do. 
4,100  do. 
3,600  do. 
3,400  do. 


The  route  which  the  tourist  and  pleas- 
ure-seeker from  New  York  or  Boston  has 
just  travelled,  via  the  Cormecticui  River, 
and  that  by  Lake  Champlain  (see  New 
York,  in  the  first  chapter  of  the  Hand- 
book,) will  of  necessity  have  introduced 
him  to  many  points  of  interest  in  the 
Green  Mountain  State  (Vermont).  We 
will  now  point  out  and  briefly  describe 
such  others  as  he  will  desire  to  visit  in 
the  course  of  his  summer  rambles  in  the 
North. 

113 


Vermont.] 


VERMONT. 


[Routes. 


Y  E  E  M  0  X  T  . 


Vermont,  named  from  the  French 
Verl  Afoiit'i,  i.  e.,  "  Green  Mountains,"  is 
the  most  northwestern  of  the  New  Eng- 
land States.  It  lies  between  42^  44'  and 
45' north  latitude,  and  between  71°  25' 
and  V3'  26'  west  longitude;  and  is 
bounded  north  by  Canada ;  east  by  New 
Hampshire,  from  which  it  is  separated 
by  the  Connecticut  River;  south  by 
Massachusetts,  and  west  by  Lake  Cham- 
plain  and  New  York.  It  is  150  miles  in 
length,  and  85  in  its  greatest  breadth, 
emi)racing  an  area  of  about  10,000  square 
miles.  Vermont  was  first  settled  by  Mas- 
sachusetts emigrants  at  Fort  Dummer 
(Brattleboro)  in  1724,  and  was  the  first 
member  of  the  Confederacy  added  to  the 
original  tliirteen  States,  March  4,  1791. 
In  this  State  occurred  the  battle  of  Ben- 
nington (August  16,  1777),  in  which 
the  British  were  defeated.  The  State  is 
divided  into  14  counties.  Moutpelier  is 
the  capital,  and  Burlington,  Rutland, 
Brattleboro,  St.  Albans,  and  Woodstock, 
are  the  chief  towns.  Population  in  1860, 
314,r;69. 

The  thousand  points  of  interest  among 
the  Green  Hills  of  Vermont  have  not 
yet  received  their  due  meed  of  favor 
from  tourists,  but  their  claims  to  atten- 
tio!i  arc  now  generally  admitted.  The 
mountain  chain  extends  from  near  New 
Haven,  in  Connecticut,  northward  through 
Massachusetts  and  Vermont,  into  Can- 
ada ;  though,  properly  speaking,  it  lies 
in  Vermont  alone,  wliere  arc  the  chief 
summits  of  Mansfield,  Camel's  Hump, 
ConnclPs  I'ealc,  Shrcwsbuiy  Motnitain, 
South  Peak,  Killington  I'ealc,  Ascutney 
Mountain  (on  the  Connecticut),  and  others. 
After  the  White  Mountains  of  New  Hamp- 
ebire,  the  (Jreen  Hills  rank  witli  the 
noblest  mountain  groups  east  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains — with  the  Blue  Ridge  in  North 
114 


Carolina,  Georgia,  and  Virginia,  the  AI- 
leghanics  in  Pennsylvania,  and  the  Kaats- 
kills  and  the  Adirondacks  in  New  York. 
Routes. — The  principal  routes  in  Ver- 
mont, as  in  the  adjoining  State  of  New 
Hampshire,  through  which  we  have  just 
travelled,  are  those  which  lie  along  the 
main    railway  lines,  traversing  the   State 
north  and  south,  and  forming  in  their  main 
features   a   continuation   of  the   railway 
system  of  New  Hampshire  and  Connecti- 
cut, which  we  have  followed  in  our  jour- 
neyings  from  New  York  and  Springfield,  by 
the  banks  of  the  beautiful    Connecticut. 
They  are  the  Vermont  Central  and  Ver- 
mont and  Canada  Raihvays^  atfording  a 
continuous  hne  from  Bellows  Falls,  184 
miles,  to  Rouse's  Point ;  the  Connecticut 
and Passnmpsic  River  Hailway  ;  the  Ve)'- 
mont  Vcdley  and  Vermont  and  Massachu- 
scfis  Jiailways,  connecting  Bellows  Falls 
southward  with  Brattleboro  and  Green- 
field (see  Connecticut  R.ver  and  Branch- 
es), and  linking,  by  means  of  the  roads 
just  enumerated,  the  great  cities  of  the 
North  American   seaboard  with  Canada 
and  the  other  British  possessions  beyond 
the  great  St.  Lawrence  River.     The  Jhtt- 
land  and  Burliiufton  Raih'oad  (120  miles) 
connects  these  cities  with  Bellows  Falls. 
Visitors  to  the  White  Mountains  will  pro- 
ceed, as  before  directed,  via  Wells  River 
to  Littleton,  and  thence  by  stage,  while 
those  bound   for   the  (ireen   Mountains, 
Lake    Champlain,  or  Montreal,  will  pro- 
ceed thitlier  by  the  Central  Raihoaij^  via 
Montpelitr   and    Burlington.      The    Vir- 
mont   Central  Railirai/,   from   Burlinirton 
eastward,  via  Motitpdier^  to  the  shores  of 
the  Connecticut  Riicr  (White  River  Junc- 
tion), traverses  the  valley  of  the  Winoo- 
ski,  by  the  banks  of  the  Winooski  River, 
and  gives  easy  access  to   Mount  Camel's 
Hump  and  Mount  Mansfield. 


Waterbury,] 


VERMONT. 


[Mount  Mansfield, 


The  Valley  and  Ixivcr  of  Winoofihi. — 
The  Winooski  traverses  almost  the  en- 
tire breadth  of  nortliern  Vermont.  Risinc; 
in  Caledonia  County,  its  com-se  is  generally 
westward  to  Lake  Champlain,  40  miles 
from  which  it  passes  through  Montpelicr. 
Some  of  its  valley  passages  are  scenes  of 
great  pastoral  beauty,  strongly  contrasted 
with  high  mountain  surroundings,  the 
singularly-formed  peak  of  Camel's  Hump 
continually  showing  itself,  sometimes 
barely  peeping  over  intervening  ranges, 
and  again — as  near  the  middle  of  the 
valley  stretch — coming  into  full  display. 
In  places,  the  Winooski  is  a  wild  turbu- 
lent water,  dashing  over  stern  precipices 
and  through  rugged  defiles.  It  is  found 
in  this  rough  mood  just  above  the  village 
of  V/inooski,  a  few  miles  from  Burling- 
ton, where  the  v/aters  rush  in  rapid  and 
cascade  through  a  ravine  100  feet  deep. 
This  picture  is  favorably  seen  from  the 
railway.  Passing  on  into  the  open  valley 
lands,  which  succeed,  Mount  Camel's 
Hump  comes  finely  into  view,  as  the  cen- 
tral and  crowning  point  of  one  of  the 
sweetest  pictures  of  all  this  region. 

^^£Rtea*I>Mi*y,  nine  miles  from 
Montpelier  and  113  from  Bellows  Falls, 
has  a  good  hotel  and  an  extensive  willow- 
ware  manufactory.  From  Waterbury 
pleasant  detours,  in  favorable  weather, 
may  be  made  to  Mount  Mansfield  and 
the  CarneVs  Rump. 

most  salient  feature  in 
landscape,  is,  next  to 
highest  of  all  the  Green  Mountain  peaks, 
having  an  elevation  of  4,188  feet.  It 
may  be  ascended,  without  much  difficulty, 
from  any  side,  though  the  usual  point  of 
access  is  at  Duxhury^  from  whence  car- 
riages can  pass  to  within  three  miles  of 
the  summit.  The  mountain  is  crowned 
by  jagged,  barren  rocks,  and  the  impos- 
ing scene  which  the  lofty  heights  over- 
loolv  is  in  no  way  obstructed  by  the  forest 
veil,  which  often  disappoints  the  hope- 
ful climber  of  forbidding  mountain-tops. 
Bolton  Falls  aflbrd  a  pleasant  excursion 
from  the  Hump. 

Moioat  MaBEsfielcl,  the  loftiest 
(4,469  feet)  of  the  Green  Hills,  is  15 
miles  from  Waterbury  Station.  It  is 
easily  reached  from  the  village  of  Under- 
bill Centre  on  the  north,  or  yet  more 


lSfiti2i|>,  the 

the   Winooski 

Mansfield,    the 


easily  from  the  pleasant  village  of  Stowe 
on  the  south,  both  of  v/hich  points  may 
be  reached  from  the  Vermont  Central 
road — Underbill  from  Jonesville  station, 
and  Stowe  from  Waterbury.  Stages 
leave  Waterbury  for  Stowe  (10  miles)  on 
arrival  of  trains.  Mansfield  is  20  miles 
from  Burlington.  The  views  of  the  moun- 
tain itself,  its  cliffs  and  peaks,  are  very 
grand  from  many  points  in  the  path 
upward,  and  the  panorama  unfolded  upon 
the  summit  is,  if  possible,  finer  than  that 
from  the  Camel's  Hump.  Lake  Cham- 
plain  and  the  Adirondack  peaks  lie  to  the 
westward,  while  the  White  Mountains  of 
New  Hampshire  are  seen  on  the  east ; 
and,  again,  the  many  crests  of  the  Green 
Hills,  with  their  intervening  vales  and 
lakes  and  villages,  stretch  out  toward 
the  south.  In  favorable  conditions  of  the 
weather  and  atmosphere,  Montreal,  70 
miles  distant,  can  be  seen  with  the  naked 
eye.  The  Mansfield  House  and  the  Stnn 
mit  House^  both  owned  by  the  Mansfield 
Hotel  Company,  are  well-kept  houses. 
Price,  $3  50  per  day.  The  latter,  which 
is  nine  miles  (three  hours)  from  the 
Mansfield  House,  commands  a  most  lovely 
view.  The  Moss  Glen  Falls  are  some- 
times visited.  They  are  on  the  north- 
eastern slope  of  Worcester  Mountain,  four 
miles  from  the  Mansfield  House. 

12m*IiMg-tOM,  144  miles  from  Bel- 
lov/s  Falls,  is  the  northern  terminus  of 
the  Rutland  and  Burlington  Railway  (see 
p.  50). 

^t.  Alljsiias,  161  miles  from  Bel- 
lows Falls,  17  north  of  Burlington,  and  3 
miles  east  of  St.  Albans  Bay  (Lake 
Champlain),  contains  a  handsome  square, 
and  a  population  of  5,000.  Large  quan- 
tities of  butter  and  cheese  are  shipped 
hence.  The  Weldon  House  is  a  well-con- 
ducted hotel.  Highgate  and  Alhurg 
Springs^  16  miles,  are  reached  by  rail  en 
route  to  Rouse's  Point,  New  York.  (For 
continuation  of  this  route  to  St.  Johns, 
see  Montreal.) 

12, 11 1 1  ia  ti  <2, — Hotels,  Bardwdl 
House^  Central  House. 

Rutland  is  near  the  •western  border  of 
Vermont,  south  of  the  centre  of  the 
State,  and  nearly  east  of  Whitehall,  at 
the  upper  extremity  of  Lake  Champlain. 
It  is  an  important  railway  centre,  and 
commands   ready  access   to  all  parts  of 

115 


KiLLlNGTON  FeAK.] 


VERMONT. 


[MiDDLEBURY. 


the  State  and  country.  The  Troy^  Wldlc- 
hall,  and  Caslieton  (Rensselaer  and  Sara- 
toga) Railroad^  1)5  miles,  unites  Rutland 
■u'ith  Troy  and  Albany,  via  Whitehall  and 
Saratoga  Springs.  Rutland  is  also  con- 
nected with  Troy  and  Albany,  by  the  Rut- 
land and  Washington  Railroad,  via  Eagle 
Bridge,  85  miles  ;  and  yet  again,  via  North 
Bennington,  by  the  Troy  and  JBodon  and 
Wislcrn  Vermont  roads,  84  miles.  The 
famous  Hoosick  Tunnel  and  Falls  are 
near  the  line  of  this  route,  one  mile  from 
Iloosick  Falls  Junction,  and  four  from 
Eagle  Bridge  Station  (see  North  Adams). 
Kortliward  it  is  connected  vath  Burling- 
ton, and  all  the  routes  ^vhich  intersect  at 
that  point,  by  the  Rutland  and  Burling- 
ton Railroad,  08  miles,  and  eastward  with 
Bellows  Falls,  on  the  Connecticut,  52 
miles,  by  a  continuation  of  the  same  line. 
Rutland  is  a  pleasant  town,  with  a  popu- 
lation of  about  8,000,  situated  in  the 
midst  of  some  of  the  finest  of  the  Ver- 
mont hill  and  valley  scenery,  at  the  foot 
of  the  western  slope  of  the  Green 
Mountains.  Otter  Creeh^  a  most  pictu- 
resque stream  in  all  its  course,  passes  by 
the  village,  and  KiUington  Peak  is  ad- 
miral)ly  seen  as  the  leading  feature  in 
the  landscape  around. 

K.iliisig-toa&  fi*eii1t:,  rising  grandly 
on  the  east  of  Rutland,  is  the  third  in 
rank  of  the  mountains  of  Vermont.  A 
visit  to  this  peak  makes  a  pleasant  excur- 
sion from  the  neighborhood.  To  the  foot 
of  the  mmnitain  the  distance  is  seven 
miles,  and  two  miles  more  to  the  summit. 
On  the  north  side  is  a  perpendicular  ledge 
of  200  feet,  called  Capitol  Rock.  Mount 
Ida^  too,  is  hereabouts,  and  Iteyond  Kil- 
lington  Beak,  as  seen  from  RutLnd,  and 
northward  are  Mount  Rico  and  Castleton 
Ridge,  shutting  out  the  view  of  Lake 
Chaniiilaiii. 

'I'lie  Clsireaailon  Spi'isHgs,  a 
favorite  place  of  resort,  is  a  few  mile-;> 
Fouth  of  Rutland,  on  the  Rutland  arul 
Washington  Railroad.  Stages  run  from 
Wffit  Rntlund  l<,tation,  4  miles  south  of 
Rutlan  1.  The  medicinal  virtues  of  these 
waters,  the  varied  and  beautiful  scenery, 
t!ie  i)leasant  drives  around,  and  the  excel- 
lent hotel  aeconimodations,  make  this 
watering-place  a  very  desirable  summer 
halt. 

'I'lic  OJS«'r  Creelt   Falls,  at 
IIG 


Vergenncs  (see  Middlebury),  are  upon  the 
Otter  Creek,  about  eeven  miles  from 
Lake  Champlain.  The  brook  is  500  feet 
in  width,  divided  by  a  line  island,  on  either 
side  of  which  the  fall  leaps  some  30  or 
40  feet.  There  are  many  other  beautiful 
cascades  in  the  Otter  Creek ;  some  at 
Middlebury,  above  Rutland;  and  a  few 
miles  below  Middlebury,  still  others  of 
yet  greater  interest.  The  Elgin  Spring 
is  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Otter  Creek 
cascades. 

S^ralie  ©aaiKiorc  is  a  beautiful 
water,  30  miles  above  Rutland.  It  is  near 
the  railway  line  to  Burlington,  eight  miles 
(by  stage)  from  Middlebury.  Dunmore  is 
a  wonderfully  picturesque  lake,  surround- 
ed at  most  points  by  bold  hills,  seen  here 
in  verdant  slopes,  and  there  in  rocky 
bluff  and  chff.  The  lake  is  about  five 
miles  in  length  and  three  in  breadth,  and 
affords  capital  fishing.  A  good  summer 
hotel  and  several  cottages  are  on  the 
west  bank. 

Sialic  Cast  let  02fl,  in  this  neigh- 
borhood, is  also  a  most  interesting  .scene. 

From  Rutland  eastward,  via  Mount 
Hollvand  Ludlow,  the  latter  station  being 
27  miles  from  Bellows  Falls,  the  route  lies 
amidst  the  beauties  of  the  Quecchy  Valley, 
replete  with  delightful  pictures  of  run- 
ning and  falling  waters,  and  of  grassy 
meadov.'s  and  wooded  hills. 

l?.£ld4a.lcI>wr.T,  33  miles  from  Rut- 
land,  via  the  Rutland  and  Burlington 
Railroad,  is  upon  the  Otter  Creek,  near 
some  fine  foils  on  that  stream,  and  a  few 
miles  only  from  Lake  Dunmore.  It  has 
a  population  (the  township)  of  some 
4,000,  and,  like  nearly  all  the  villages  in 
Vermont,  is  a  very  beautiful  pdace,  sur- 
rounded at  all  points  by  most  attractive 
mountain  scenerv.  It  is  distinguished 
;u  one  of  the  first  manufacturing  towns 
iii  the  State,  and  also  as  the  seat  of 
Midilcbitry  College,  founded  in  1800.  Its 
chief  edifice  is  100  feet  long  and  four 
stories  high,  built  ol"  ston(\  Extensive 
marble  quarries  are  in  the  neighborhood. 

ISraiiilosi,  17  miles  north  of  Rut- 
land, is  a  flourishing  tovrn,  finely  watered 
by  Otter  Creek,  Mill  River,  and  Spring 
Bond,  on  which  waters  are  good  mill- 
seats.  Minerals  of  fine  quality  are  found 
in  this  town.  There  are  here  two  curi- 
ous  caverns    formed   of   limestone,    the 


Benningtom.] 


VERMONT. 


[Lake  Memphremagog. 


largest  containing  two  apartment?,  each 
from  IG  to  20  feet  S(}iiarc.  It  is  entered 
l>y  descending  from  tiic  surface  about  20 
feet. 

^icBaBrili!5^;^i»Ba  is  at  the  meeting  of 
the  '-^>o>/  and  l^o\sfG)i  and  the  Weslcrn 
Vermont  Railways^  in  the  extreme  soutli- 
west  corner  of  the  State.  It  is  famous 
as  the  scene  of  tiie  battle  of  Bennington 
(August  10,  17'77),  in  wiiich  a  detachment 
of  the  British  forces,  under  Colonel Baura, 
vras  terribly  beaten  by  the  Green  Moun- 
t;iin  Boys,  led  by  the  intrepid  General 
Stark.  It  was  upon  the  occasion  of  this 
memorable  enuagement  that  Stark  is  re- 
ported  to  have  made  the  famous  address 
to  his  troops:  "See  there,  men!  tiiere 
are  the  red-coats  !  Before  to-night  they 
are  our--,  or  Molly  Stark  will  be  a  v/idow !" 
The  manufactories  of  the  United  States 
Pottery  Coni'-any  at  Bennington  are  well 
deserving  of  a  visit.  Fine  porcelain  and 
Parian  ware  are  made  here,  the  vicinage 
vielding  the  necessarv  materials  in  abun- 
dant  and  excellent  supply.  Bennington 
Cadre  is  the  county  seat.  North  Ben- 
nington on  Paran  Creek,  four  miles  north- 
west of  Bennington  Centre,  is  on  the 
Western  Vermont  Railroad,  51  miles 
south  of  Rutland  ;  connections  four  times 
daily  north  and  south,  via  Bennington. 

"%TiiioMg'lal>y  Ejalie  is  a  popular 
resort  in  Orleans  County,  Vermont,  lying 
upon  the  Canada  line,  25  miles  south  of 
Newport  and  six  from  West  Burke.  This 
lake  is  nearly  six  miles  long,  and  ex- 
tremely picturesque.  Two  peaks,  respec- 
tively 1,950  and  1,500  feet  high,  rise  one 
on  either  side  of  the  lake,  and  command 
line  vievvs.  The  route  is  by  the  Connecti- 
cut and  Paasumpsic  Railroad  (see  Con- 
KECTicuT  Valley),  via  Wells  River  and 
St.  Jolmsbury,  to  West  Burke,  and  thence 
by  stage.  It  is  also  reached  in  a  few 
hours  by  stage  from  Island  Pond,  on  the 
Grand  Trunk  Raihvaij.  The  Willoughby 
Lake  House  has  good  accommodations. 

ljsil&:e  K'SeiispIai'C'iMssg'^g"  is  a 
beautiful  sheet  of  water,  situated  partly  in 
Vermont  and  partly  in  Canada.  It  is 
35  miles  long,  and  varies  from  2  to  5 
miles  in  Vv-idth.  Its  shores  are  rock- 
bound,  and  hidented  v/ith  beautiful  bays, 
between  which  jut  out  bold  wooded  head- 
lands, backed  by  mountain  ranges. 
Numerous   picturesque    islands    dot    its 


surface.  ITuscalonge  trout  are  taken  here 
in  great  perfection.  Newport,  at  the  head 
of  the  lake,  has  two  hotels  and  several 
churches,  and  a  population  of  about 
1,000.  The  Mcmjihreniagog  House  is  a 
well-kept  hotel ;  Bush  and  Pender,  pro- 
prietors. Frospect  Hill,  south  of  the  vil- 
lage, commands  a  fine  viev,r  of  the  lake 
and  surrounding  eleviitions,  prominent 
among  which  arc  OmVs  Head,  IJount 
Elephantis,  Moivnt  Orford^  Jay  Beak, 
and  Wiiloiighbji  Mountain.  The  steamer 
"  Mountain  Maid,"  Captain  Fogg,  leaves 
the  hotel  pier,  Newport,  every  morning, 
and  plies  the  entire  length  of  the  lake, 
touching  at  the  Mountain  House  for  the 
convenience  of  travellers  wishing  to  ascend 
OwVs  Head  or  Bear  Mountain.  Jay 
Peak,  13  m.iles  west  of  Newport,  should 
be  visited,  if  time  permits.  It  is  4,018  feet 
high,  and  commands  a  line  view  of  the 
entire  range  of  the  Green  Mountains, 
including  Mount  Mansfield,  Camel's 
Hump,  and  Killington  Peak,  Ascutney 
Mountain,  near  Vv' indsor,  White  and  Fran- 
conia  Mountains,  Kearsarge,  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  and  the  Adirondacks.  OivV^ 
Head  rises  3,000  feet  above  the  lake,  and 
commands,  in  clear  weather,  an  extensive 
view.  Tourists  can  either  proceed  to 
Montreal  or  Quebec  from  the  foot  cf  tlie 
lake,  or  return  to  Newport  on  the  boat 
the  same  day  at  6  p.  m.  At  and  near  the 
Mountain  House'  are  the  best  fishing- 
grounds  on  the  lake.  Boats  supphed 
on  application  at  the  hotel. 

In  ascending  the  lake,  hidian  Point, 
the  Tidn  Sisters,  and  Province  Bland  are 
passed  within  a  few  miles  of  Newport. 
East  of  Province  Island  and  near  the 
shore  is  Tca-Tahle  Bland,  a  charm.ing 
rural  picnic  spot,  and  on  the  western 
shore  the  boundary-line  between  Ver- 
mont and  Canada  strikes  the  lake. 
BttcJi's  Bag  and  V/hetstone  Island^  Magoon 
Point,  Round  and  Minnow  Blands  are  in 
the  vicmity  of  the  Mountain  House,  and 
afford  pleasant  picnic  and  excursi(.'n  points 
for  visitors  sojourning  there.  Skinner\<i 
Bland  and  Cave,  said  to  have  been  the 
haunt  of  Uriah  Skinner,  "  the  bold  smug- 
gler of  Magog,  "  during  the  Vv'ar  of  1812, 
are  also  near  by.  Balance  Rock,  on  the 
southern  shore  of  Long  Island,  is  fre- 
quently visited.  The  eastern  shore  of 
the   lake,  in   this  vicinity,    is  much  im- 

117 


Georgevili.e.] 


VERMONT. 


[Magog. 


proved  and  adorned  ■vrith  some  hmdsome 
summer  re>;idences,  amons;  whioh  are 
those  belontrino;  to  Judire  Day,  William 
Molson,  and  Ilui^h  Allen,  of  Montreal. 
Mount  Khphaut'is  (Su2;ar  Loaf)  is  seen  to 
advantaa:e  from  Allen's  Landin:^. 

Concert  Pond^  west  of  Mount  Ele- 
pliantis,  abounds  in  brook-trout,  and  at- 
tracts numerous  visitors. 

GcorgevxUc^  20  miles  from  Newport 
and  12  from  Magog,  has  a  hotel  and  sev- 
eral stores.  KnowltoriSj  on  the  opposite 
118 


(west)  side  of  the  lake,  is  the  landing  for 
passengers  to  Stanstead  and  Montreal. 
The  route  thither  is  by  stage  to  "Water- 
loo 20  miles,  and  thence  by  rail  42 
miles  to  St.  John's  and  63  to  Montreal. 
A  better  route,  though  a  longer  stage 
ride,  for  those  who  do  not  care  to  follow 
the  beaten  track  of  travel  and  visit  Mon- 
treal first,  is  to  proceed  by  the  steamer 
on  to  Magog  (Outlet  Village),  and  thence 
by  stage  to  Sherbrooke,  en  route  to  Rich- 
mond and  Quebec.     (See  Magog.) 


Maine.] 


MAINE. 


[Maine. 


M  A  I  N^  E  . 


Maine  occupies  the  estreme  eastern 
portion  of  New  England,  and  is  the  bor- 
der State  of  the  Union  in  that  direction, 
with  the  British  province  of  New  Bruns- 
wick on  the  north  and  northeast,  and  the 
province  of  Lower  Canada  on  the  north- 
west. It  has  three  distinct  topographical 
aspects — in  the  comparatively  level  and 
somewhat  sandy  and  marshy  character 
of  the  southern  portion,  lying  back  20 
miles  from  the  Atlantic  coast ;  in  the 
pleasant  hill  and  valley  features  of  the  in- 
terior ;  and  in  the  rugged,  mountainous, 
and  wilderness  regions  of  the  north.  It 
i?  the  largest  of  the  New  England  States, 
being  230  miles  long  and  about  160  broad, 
embracing  an  area  of  upward  of  twenty 
millions  of  acres. 

The  history  of  the  State  is  interesting, 
dating  as  far  back  as  1604,  when  a  par- 
tial settlement  was  effected  on  the  pres- 
ent site  of  Phippsburg,  but  which  was 
afterward  abandoned.  In  1712  the 
State  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Eng- 
lish. It  long  remained  under  the  juris- 
diction of  Massachusetts,  but  finally  was 
admitted  into  the  American  Union  in 
1820,  It  is  divided  into  16  counties, 
and  contained  in  1860  a  population  of 
626,952,  Its  principal  towns  are  Port- 
land, Bangor,  Belfast,  Biddeford,  Bath, 
and  Lewiston.     Augusta  is  the  capital. 

A  great  portion  of  the  State  is  yet 
covered  }jj  dense  forests,  the  utilization 
of  which  is  the  chief  occupation  and  sup- 
port of  its  inhabitants.  The  most  fertile 
lands  lie  in  the  central  southern  regions, 
between  the  Penobscot  River  on  the  east 
and  the  Kennebec  on  the  west,  and  in 
the  valley  borders  of  other  waters.  The 
leading  objects  of  interest  to  tourists  are 
the  mountain  ranges,  v/hich  are  bold  and 
imposing — one  summit,  that  of  Katahdin, 
having  an  elevation  of  5,385  feet  above 


the  level  of  the  sea.  The  lakes  are  nu- 
merous, sometimes  of  great  extent,  and 
often  very  beautiful.  They  are  to  be 
found  throughout  the  State,  and  more 
especially  among  the  mountains  in  the 
north.  Indeed,  it  is  estimated,  that  one- 
tenth  part  of  the  whole  area  of  Maine  is 
covered  by  water.  The  rivers  are  nu- 
merous and  large,  and  present  every- 
where scenes  of  great  and  varied  beauty. 
The  Atlantic  coast,  v/hich  occupies  the 
whole  southern  line  of  the  State,  is  the 
finest  in  the  Union,  in  its  remarkably 
bold,  rocky  character,  and  in  its  beauti- 
ful harbors,  bays,  islands,  and  beaches. 
The  sea-islands  of  Maine  are  over  400  in 
number  ;  many  of  them  are  very  large, 
and  covered  by  fertile  and  inhabited 
lands.  The  climate,  though  marked  by 
extremes,  both  of  heat  and  cold,  is  yet 
everywhere  most  healthful ;  its  rigor 
being  materially  modified  by  the  proxim- 
ity of  the  ocean. 

T"  la  c  M  o  ■Bt  la  t  a  i  Bi  s  a  n  tl 
X<al£;es. — The  most  interesting  route 
for  the  tourist  in  Maine  to  take  is  per- 
haps that  which  leads  through  the  hills, 
lakes,  and  forests  of  the  north ;  but 
we  warn  him,  beforehand,  that  it  will  not 
be  one  of  ease.  Rugged  roads  and  scant 
physical  comforts  will  not  be  his  most 
severe  trial ;  for,  in  many  places,  he  will 
not  find  road  or  inn  at  all,  but  must 
trudge  along  painfully  on  foot,  or  by  rude 
skiff  over  the  lakes,  and  trust  to  his  rifle 
and  his  rod  to  supply  his  larder.  In  these 
wildest  regions  the  exploration  may  be 
made  with  great  satisfaction  by  a  party 
well  provided  with  all  needed  tent  equi- 
page, and  with  all  the  paraphernalia  of  the 
chase  ;  for  deer,  and  the  moose,  and  the 
wild  fowl  are  abundant  in  the  woods,  and 
the  finest  fish  may  be  freely  taken  in  the 
waters.    Still  he  may  traverse   most   of 

119 


Portland.] 


MAIXE. 


[Portland. 


the  mountain  lands  and  lakes  by  the 
roads  and  paths  of  the  lumbermen,  who 
have  invaded  all  the  region  ;  and  he  may 
bivouac,  as  comfoilably  as  should  con- 
tent an  orthodox  forester,  in  the  humble 
shanties  erected  by  the  hardy  backwoods- 
man. The  mountains  of  Maine  are 
broken  and  distinct  peaks.  A  range, 
which  seems  to  be  an  irregular  continua- 
tion of  the  White  Uills  of  New  Ilamp- 
siiire,  extends  along  the  western  side  of 
the  State  for  many  miles ;  and,  verging 
toward  the  northeast,  terminates  in 
Mars  Hill.  This  chain  divides  the  waters 
which  liow  north  into  St.  John's  River 
from  those  which  pass  southward  to  the 
Atlantic.  Many  beautiful  lakes  lie  with- 
in this  territory.  The  wilderness  of  north- 
ern New  York  (see  Adirondacks)  has 
many  features  in  common  with  the  north- 
ern mountain  and  lake  region  of  Maine. 
The  internal  improvements  of  the  State 
are  few,  but  important.  Portland  is  the 
chief  commercial  city  and  railway  centre 
of  the  State,  and  thence  diverge  the  lead- 
ing routes  to  every  section  within  its  lim- 
its and  in  the  neighboring  provinces  of 
Canada. 

l*orllaiid, —  Hotels,  the  Preble 
House,  the  United  Slates,  the  American, 
the  Elm. 

KorTES. — From  Boston,  107  miles,  by 
the  Eadcrti  Railway,  via  Lynn,  Salem, 
Newburyport,  Portsmouth,  New  Haven, 
etc. ;  or  by  the  Boston  and  Maine  route, 
111  miles,  via  Reading,  Lawrence,  Au- 
dover,  Haverhill,  Exeter,  Dover,  etc. 
(sec  Boston)  ;  or  by  steamer  daily.  From 
Montreal,  293  miles,  by  the  Grand  Trunk 
Rail II' a  I/. 

Portland,  the  commercial  metropolis  of 
Maine,  is  handsomely  situated  on  a  pen- 
insula, occupying  the  ridge  and  side  of  a 
high  point  of  land,  in  the  southwest  ex- 
tremity of  Casco  Bay,  and,  on  approach- 
ing it  iVoin  the  ocean,  is  seen  to  great  ad- 
vantage. Till'  harbor  is  one  of  the  best 
on  the  Athintic  coast,  the  anchorage 
being  protected  on  every  side  by  land, 
whilst  the  water  is  deep,  and  communi- 
cation with  the  ocean  direct  and  con- 
venient. It  is  defended  by  Forts  Preble, 
Scammdl,  and  Gorycs,  and  dotted  over 
with  lovely  islands.  These  islands  afford 
most  delightful  excursions,  and  are 
among  the  greatest  attractions  of  the 
lliO 


vicinity.  On  the  highest  point  of  the 
peninsula  is  an  observatory,  70  feet  in 
licight,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the. 
city,  harbor,  and  islands  in  the  bay.  The 
misty  forms  of  the  White  Mountains,  60 
miles  distant,  are  discernible  in  clear 
weatlier.  The  original  name  of  Portland 
was  Muchiyonne.  It  was  first  settled  by 
the  whites  as  an  English  colony  in  1632, 
just  two  centuries  before  the  charter  of 
the  present  city  was  granted.  On  the 
night  of  the  4th  of  July,  1866,  a  fire 
occurred  which  swept  away  nearly  one- 
half  of  the  entire  business  portion  of  the 
city. 

Portland  is  elegantly  built,  and  the 
streets  beautifully  shaded  and  embel- 
lished with  trees,  and  so  profusely,  tliat 
there  are  said  to  be  no  less  than  3,000 
of  these  rural  delights.  Congress  Street, 
previous  to  the  fire  the  main  highway, 
follows  the  ridire  of  the  peninsula  through 
its  entire  extent.  Among  the  public 
buildings  of  Portland,  the  City  Hall 
(rebuilding),  the  Court  House,  and  some 
of  the  churches,  are  worthy  of  particular 
attention.  The  Society  of  Natural  His- 
tory, organized  1843,  possesses  a  fine 
cabinet,  containing  specimens  of  the  or- 
nithology of  the  State,  more  than  4,000 
species  of  shells,  and  a  rich  collection  of 
mineralogical  and  geological  specimens, 
and  of  fishes  and  reptiles.  The  Afhe- 
nccum,  incorporated  in  1826,  has  a  library 
of  12,000  vohnnes  ;  and  tlie  Mercantile 
Library  possesses,  also,  many  valuable 
books.  The  Marine  Hospited,  erected  in 
1855,  at  a  cost  of  $80,000,  is  an  impos- 
ing edifice.  Brown  &  Co.'s  extensive 
sugar  refinery,  wliolly  destroyed  by  the 
late  fire,  has  been  rebuilt,  and  v.ill  shortly 
be  in  operation.  The  city  is  being  rebuilt 
as  rapidly  as  possible,  and  it  is  hoped  that 
by  1868  only  faint  traces  of  the  great 
fire  will  remain.  Population,  30,000. 
The  vicinity  has  several  fine  drives.  (See 
(^APE  Emzaueth.) 

The  leading  routes  of  travel  from  Port- 
land are  the  Grand  Tnnik  (Canada), 
Portland,  Saco,  and  Portsmouth  ;  Port- 
land and  Kennehcc  ;  Portland  and  Banr/or 
(Maine  Central),  and  the  York  and  Cum- 
berland. The  last-named  is  a  short  line, 
extending  from  Portland  south,  via  Mor- 
rill's, Saccarajijia,  liuxton  (/cntre,  to  Saco 
River,  a  distance  of  18  miles. 


KOUTE  I.] 


MAINE. 


[BiDDEFOIlD. 


MOUTE  I, 

POETLAXD  TO  GORTTAU  AXD  WHITE 
MOUNTAINS. 

(  Via  Grand  TrmiJc  (Canada)  Bailioay.') 

Tins  important  thoroufj^lilarc  connects 
the  navigable  waters  of  Portland  harbor 

O 

with  the  commercial  capital  of  Conada. 
Its  route  passes  through  a  fertile  and 
productive  country,  generally  under  fine 
cultivation,  the  streams  in  its  vicinity 
abounding  in  water  privileges  of  the 
first  importance.  From  Portland,  pass- 
ing onward,  five  miles,  through  Fal- 
mouth, on  thePresurapscot  River,  to  Dan- 
ville Junction,  27  miles  {Androscoggin 
Jiailwaij),  to  the  valley  of  Royal's  River 
and  the  valley  of  the  Little  Androscog- 

crosses   the  latter 
3G    miles  f\'om 


it    strikes    and 


river  at  Mechanic  Falls^ 
Portland,  at  which  place  the  Buckfield 
Branch  Railroad,  connects  with  it.  Pur- 
suing its  course  upward,  it  passes  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  "  Mills  "  on  its  way  to 
Paris  Cape,  in  the  neighborhood  of  South 
Paris,  drawing  in  upon  it  the  travel 
and  business  of  that  rich  and  populous 
region.  Still  following  up  the  valley  of 
the  Little  Androscoggin,  passing  on  the 
way  two  important  falls,  it  reaches  Bry- 
ant's Pond  (02  miles),  the  source  of  that 
river.  This  point  is  15  miles  from  Ruin- 
ford  Falls,  on  the  Great  Androscoggin, 
one  of  the  most  valuable  and  available 
water-powers  in  the  State,  Passing 
hence  into  the  valley  of  Alder  stream, 
the  route  strikes  the  Great  Androscoggin, 
near  Bethel,  70  miles  from  Portland. 
Crossing  that  stream,  it  follows  up  its 
picturesque  and  romantic  valley,  bor- 
dered by  the  highest  mountains  in  New 
England,  till,  in  its  course  of  about  20 
miles  from  Bethel,  it  reaches  Gorhara, 
New  Hampshire,  the  point  of  departure 
for  Mount  Washington,  eisiht  miles  dis- 
tant.  From  this  point  this  famous  shrine 
may  be  approached  and  ascended  with 
more  ease,  in  a  shorter  distance,  and  less 
time,  than  from  any  other  accessible 
quarter  in  the  vicinity  of  the  White  Hills. 
(See  White  Mountain  Routes.)  Gor- 
ham  is  seven  miles  distant  from  Berlin 
Falls,  the  greatest  waterfall  in  New  Eng- 
land, where  the  waters  of  the  Great  An- 
rger    in   volume   than  the 

6 


droscoggin. 


waters  of  the  Connecticut,  descend  nearly 
200  feet  in  a  distance  of  about  two  miles. 
From  the  valley  of  the  Androscoggin  the 
road  passes  inlo  the  valley  of  the  Con- 
necticut, reaching  the  banks  of  that  river 
at  North  Stratford,  New  Hampshire. 
Following  up  this  rich  and  highly  pro- 
ductive valley  32  miles,  the  road  reaches 
the  parallel  of  45"  north  latitude,  the 
boundary-line  between  the  L^nited  States 
and  Canada.  The  route  thence  lies  through 
wb.at  are  known  as  the  Eastern  Townships 
of  Canada,  via  Richmond  to  Quebec,  and' 
up  the  St.  Lawrence,  via  Montreal,  to 
Toronto  on  Lake  Ontario,  where  it  con- 
nects with  other  routes  for  Lake  Superior 
and  all  parts  of  the  great  West.  (See 
Grand  Trunk  Railway,) 


MOUTE  II. 

PORTLAND    TO   .9 A 00.  AND   PORTS- 
MOUTH, N.  U. 

(Via  Portland,    Saco,   and   Portsmouth 
Railroad.) 

Stations. — Portland  ;  Cape  Elizabeth, 
2  miles ;  Scarborough,  6  ;  West  Scar- 
borough, 9;  Saco,  13;  Biddeford,  15; 
Kennebunk  Port,  19;  Kennebunk,  23; 
Wells,  28  ;  North  Berwick,  34  ;  South 
Berwick  Junction,  38  ;  Junction  Great 
Falls  Branch,  41 ;  Elliott,  45 ;  Kittery, 
50  ;  Portsmouth,  52  ;  Boston,  108. 

Cape  Elizaheili  (two  miles)  is  a  delight- 
ful summer  resort,  with  excellent  bathing 
and  fishing  privileges.  Bang^s^  and  other 
islands  in  the  bay,  are  easily  reached. 
The  Cottage^  and  several  private  board- 
ing-houses are  open  during  the  season — 
June  to  September. 

^saco  (L3  miles)  is  a  flourishing  man- 
ufacturing village  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
Saco  River,  six  miles  from  its  mouth.  A 
fall  of  42  feet  in  the  river,  at  this  point, 
furnishes  one  of  the  best  water-powers  in 
the  State.  Eleven  cotton-mills,  contain- 
ing 55,000  spindles,  are  in  operation  here. 
Laurel  Hill  Cemetery,  on  the  Mount  Au- 
burn plan,  is  worth  visiting.  Two  good 
hotels. 

Biddeford {IZ  miles),  on  the  opposite  or 
south  side  of  the  Saco  River,  is  a  growing 
place.  The  population  of  both  villages 
is  upward  of  15,000. 

121 


Brunswick.] 


MAINE. 


[AUftUSTA. 


KcniuhwiTc  (23  railcs)  is  noted  for  ltd 
ship-buildinp:,  carried  on  mainly  at  the 
"  Port,"  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kennebuuk 
River. 

South  Bcni'i  k  (38  miles)  is  on  Sal- 
mon Falls  River,  at  the  junclion  of  the 
JBxsto.i  and  Maine  Raihoay,  and  three 
inWiA  from  the  junction  of  the  main  line 
v.ith  the  Great  Falls  and  Conway  Rail- 
vai.  Passengers  to  Salmon  Fa^ls,  Great 
Fa'ls  (N'.  IL),  and  Union  Village  (26 
miles)  leave  the  P.  S.  and  P.  Jiailway 
'here. 

Biiltery  (50  miles)  is  on  the  Piscat- 
aqua  River,  opposite  Portsmouth,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  bridge.  South- 
ward the  route  lies  through  the  State  of 
New  Hampshire. 


nOUTE  III. 

PORTLAND  TO  GARDIXER,  AUGUSTA, 
WATER  VILLE,  AND  SKOWIIEGAN. 

( Via  Portland  and  Kennebec  Pailicay.) 

Stations. — Portland  ;  Westbrook,  5 
miles;  Cumberland,  12;  Yarmouth,  16; 
Frecport,  22  ;  Oak  Uill,  26  ;  Brunswick, 
30;  Topsliam,  81;  Bowdoinham,  38; 
Ilarward's  Road,  41  ;  Richmond,  46; 
Dresden,  49;  South  Gai'diner,  51;  Gar- 
diner, 56  ;  Ilallowell,  01 ;  Augusta,  63  ; 
Seven  Mile  Brook,  70;  Vassall^oro',  75; 
Winslow,  80  ;  Waterville,  81  ;  Kendall's 
Mills,  83;  Somerset  Mills,  87;  Pishon 
Ferrv,  92;  Bloomfield,  99^;  Skowhegan, 
100." 

Ui*u?iM\vi<*1<  (30  miles)  is  a  flour- 
ishing town  on  the  Androscoggin,  across 
which  a  bridge  connects  it  with  7opsharn. 
A  fall  of  50  feet  in  the  river  supplies  a 
line  water-power,  which  is  but  little  im- 
provcil.  Piowiloin  Collcr/e^  founded  1802, 
occupies  a  line  locale  at  the  south  end  of 
the  village,  six  miles  from  Topsham  Sta- 
tion. Tlie  Medical  School  has  a  fine 
library,  anatomic.il  cabinet,  etc.  The 
Androacoytfin  /iV/W'^// connects  it  with 
Milton  .md  Fannington,  63  miles. 

IB  SI  t  li. — IIoTKi,,  the  S(i(/adahock 
Jloui<i\ 

Bath  is  a  flourishing  city  of  over  9,000 
people,  on  the  Kennebec,  12  miles  from 
the  sea,  30  miles  south  of  Augusta,  and 
122 


36  northeast  of  Portland.  It  is  the  ter- 
minus of  a  branch  road  from  Brunswick, 
on  the  Portland  and  Kennebec  Railway. 
It  is  to  be  united  at  Lewiston  with  the 
Portland  and  Bangor  Railway. 

CJardimcr  (56  miles)  is  situated  on 
both  sides  of  the  Cobbosseecontee  River, 
which  here  enters  the  Kennebec  River, 
Its  inhabitants  (5,000)  are  principally  en- 
gaged in  manui'acturc s.  Pittston,  across 
the  Kennebec,  is  connected  with  Gardiner 
by  a  bridge  900  feet  long. 

'  Miilio^vcll  (61  miles)  is  a  pretty 
village,  two  miles  south  of  Augusta,  on 
the  Kennebec  River,  famous  for  its  granite 
quarries.     Population,  3,000. 

A 11  s"  u  !^  t;  a — (63  miles). — Hotels, 
the  Stanley  House,  Augusta  Hoiise. 

Augusta  is  at  the  head  of  sloop  navi- 
gation on  the  Kennebec,  43  miles  from 
its  mouth.  It  is  69  miles  southwest  of 
Bangor.  Steamboats  run  hence  to  Port- 
land  and  Boston,  caUing  at  the  river 
landings.  The  city  stands  chiefly  upon 
the  right  bank  of  the  river,  which  is 
crossed  here  by  a  bridge  520  feet  long. 
The  private  residences,  and  some  of  the 
hotels,  are  upon  a  terrace,  a  short  dis- 
tance west  of  the  river,  while  the  business 
parts  of  the  town  lie  along  shore.  Much 
of  it  has  been  swept  away  by  fire  (Sep- 
tember 17,  1865).  The  State  House  is  an 
elegant  structure  of  white  gi-anite.  Its  site, 
in  the  southern  part  of  the  city,  is  lofty 
and  very  pictures({ue  ;  in  front  is  a  large 
and  well-shaded  park.  The  United  States 
Arsenal,  surrounded  by  extensive  and 
elegant  grounds,  is  upon  the  cast  side  of 
tlie  river.  Here,  too,  is  the  Hospital  for 
the  Insane,  built  upon  a  commanding  and 
most  beautiful  eminence.  Population, 
8,500. 

'^ValorTillc  (81  miles)  is  on  the 
Kennebec,  at  the  Ticonic  Falls.  These 
falls  are  18  feet  in  height,  and  aftbrd  a 
tine  water-power.  It  is  the  scat  of  Wate7'- 
ville  College,  a  prosperous  esta])lishmeiit, 
conducted  by  the  Baptists.  The  Maine 
Central  {Portland  and.  Bangor)  Railway 
intersects  the  Portland  and  Kennebec 
road  at  this  point.  Distance  by  the  former 
line  to  Bangor,  55  niil(^;  to  Portland,  83 


miles 


Skowhegan  (100  miles)  is  on  the  Ken- 
nebec River,  opposite  Bloomfield,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  bridge. 


Lewiston.] 


MAINE. 


[Eastpcrt. 


MOUTJE  ir. 

PORTLAND  TO  WATER VILLE  AXD 
BANGOR. 

{Via  3faine  Central  {P.  &  JS.)  Railway.) 

Stations. — Portland  ;  Danville  Junc- 
tion, 28  miles  (Grand  Trunk  Railway  ) ; 
Auburn,  34  ;  Lewiston,  35  ;  Greene,  42  ; 
Leeds,  45  (Androscoggin  Railway) ; 
Monmouth,  48;  Winthrop,  54;  Read- 
field,  60  ;  Belgrade,  68  ;  North  Bel- 
grade, 72  ;  West  Waterville,  '7'7 ;  Water- 
ville  (Portland  and  Kennebec  Railway). 
83  ;  Kendall's  Mills,  86  ;  Clinton,  92  ; 
Burnham,  97  ;  Pittsfield,  104 ;  Detroit, 
Newport,  111 ;  East  Newport,  114  ;  Etna, 
119;  Carmel,  123;  Hermon  Pond,  128  ; 
Bangor,  138. 

tiC^vistOBa  (35  miles)  is  a  flourish- 
ing manufacturing  village,  containing 
about  7,000  inhabitants,  situated  upon 
the  left  bank  of  the  Androscoggin  River. 
The  bridge  here  is  1,700  feet  long.  The 
waterfall  here  is  one  of  exceeding  beauty. 
The  entire  volume  of  the  Androscoggin 
is  precipitated  60  feet  over  a  broken 
ledge,  forming  in  its  fall  a  splendid 
specimen  of  natural  scenery.  The  river 
immediately  below  the  fall  subsides  into 
almost  a  uniform  tranquillity,  and  moves 
slowly  and  gracefully  along  its  course, 
in  strange  though  pleasing  contrast  with 
its  wild  and  turbid  appearance  at  and 
above  the  cataract.  The  "  Central "  road 
communicates  with  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway  at  Danville,  seven  miles  below 
Lewiston. 

Leeds  Statioji  (45  miles).  Here  the 
Androscoggin  Railway  crosses  this  line, 
connecting  it  with  Leeds  Centre,  North 
Leeds,  Livermore  Falls,  Wilton,  and 
Farmington.     Through  distance,  63  miles. 

TitUfield  (104  miles),  21  miles  north 
of  Waterville,  is  pleasantly  situated  on 
tlie  Sebasticook  River,  which,  like  most 
of  the  streams  of  this  State,  afibrds  a  fine 
water-power.  Stages  daily  to  St.  Albans, 
Harmony,  and  Cambridge. 

Newport  (111  miles)  is  the  point  of  de- 
parture for  Moosehead  Lake  and  vicinity 
(see  Moosehead  Lake). 

15a-iis,-or  (138  miles). —  Hotel,  the 
Bangor  House. 

Bangor,  at  the  head  of  tidewater  and 
of  navigation  on  the  Penobscot  River,  60 


miles  from  its  mouth,  is  one  of  the  largest 
cities  of  Maine,  having  a  population  of 
more  than  20,000,  Steamboats  connect 
it  daily  with  Portland  and  Boston.  The 
distance  from  Bangor  to  Portland,  by 
railway,  is  138  miles.  Bangor  is  connect- 
ed with  Old  Town  and  Milford  (13  miles) 
three  times  daily,  and  another  road  is 
contemplated  to  Lincoln,  50  miles,  up  the 
Penobscot  Valley.  The  Bangor  Tlieologi- 
cal  Seminary,  founded  1816,  occupies  a 
fine  site  in  the  higher  portion  of  the  city. 
The  new  Custom  House  is  a  fine  edifice. 
The  "specialty"  of  Bangor  is  lumber,  of 
which  it  is,  next  to  Chicago,  the  greatest 
depot  on  the  continent.  All  the  vast 
country  above,  drained  by  the  Penobscot 
and  its  affluents,  is  covered  with  dense 
forests  of  pine,  and  hemlock,  and  spruce, 
and  cedar,  from  Avhich  immense  quanti- 
ties of  lumber  are  continually  cut  and 
sent  from  the  numerous  saw-mills,  down 
the  river  to  market  at  Bangor.  During 
the  eight  or  nine  months  of  the  year 
through  which  the  navigation  of  the 
river  is  open,  some  2,000  vessels  are  em- 
ployed in  the  transportation  of  this 
freight.  Not  unfrequently  200,000,(  lOO  feet 
are  received  in  a  single  year.  The  whole 
industry  of  Bangor  is  not,  however,  in  the 
lumber  line,  as  she  is  also  engaged  in 
ship-building,  has  a  large  coasting  trade, 
and  a  considerable  foreign  commerce. 

lleSiagt  aitd  Caslisae  are  some 
SO  miles  below  Bangor,  where  the  Penob- 
scot enters  its  namesake  bay.  Belfast  on 
the  west,  and  Castine  on  the  east  shore, 
are  nine  miles  apart.  They  are  both 
small  ship-building  and  fishing  towns. 

Ess sf port,  upon  the  waters  of  Pas- 
samaquoddy  Bay,  at  the  extreme  eastern 
point  of  the  territory  of  the  United  States, 
is  well  deserving  of  a  visit  from  the  tourist 
in  quest  of  the  beautiful  in  nature ;  for 
more  charming  scenes  on  land  and  on 
sea  than  are  here,  can  rarely  be  found. 

The  traveller  may  see  Eastport  and  its 
vicinage  and  then  go  home,  if  he  pleases; 
for  it  is  the  tdtirna  TJmlc — the  veritable 
Land's-End — the  jumping-ofi"  place — the 
latitude  and  longitude  beyond  which  the 
stars  and  stripes  give  place  to  the  red 
cross  of  England. 

Eastport  is  234  miles  N.  E.  of  Portland, 
and  is  reached  thence  and  from   Boston 


by  regular   steamboat 


c'ommunication  to 
'  123 


MocKT  Kataiibin.] 


MAIXE. 


[The  Penobscot. 


and  from  Ft.  John,  N.  B.  Steamboats 
run  also  to  Calais  and  places  en  ronte^ 
30  n.iles  above,  at  the  head  of  navigation 
on  the  St.  Croix  lliver.  The  town  is 
charmingly  built  on  Moose  Island,  which 
e:r.l)races  2,0im)  acres,  and  is  connected 
to  tlie  mainland  of  reiry  by  a  bridge ; 
and  by  ferries  with  Pembroke,  Lubec,  and 
the  adjoining  Ih-itish  isl.inds.  Fort  Su^- 
Uvan  is  its  shield  and  buckler  against  any 
possible  foes  from  without. 

The  Piismmaqnoddy  Bay  extends  in- 
land some  15  miles,  and  is,  perhaps,  10 
miles  in  breadth.  Its  shores  are  wonder- 
fully irregular  and  picturesque,  and  the 
many  islands  wl)ich  stud  its  deep  waters 
help  much  in  the  composition  of  pictures 
to  be  enjoyed  and  remembered. 

Calais,  at  the  head  of  navigation  on 
the  St.  Croix  River,  should  be  visited  by 
the  traveller  in  this  region.  The  lumber 
trade  is  large,  and  ship-building  is  ex- 
tensively carried  on.  It  is  connected 
with  St.  Stephens,  in  Xcw  Brunswick,  by 
four  bridges.  Tlic  Calais  and  Baring 
Bailway  connects  the  town  with  Mill  town 
and  BariniT.  From  Baring  the  Lewev's 
Island  Bailroal  extends  lY  miles  to 
Piiuceton.     I'opulation,  6,000. 


MOrXTAIXS,   LAKHS,    AXD  niYEnS. 

Itloimt  fi^nf alidiii,  Avith  its 
peaks  5,:i85  loot  above  the  sea,  is  the 
loftiest  stutiiuit  in  the  State,  and  is  the 
vllima  Thuli\  at  j)rcsent,  of  general  travel 
in  this  direction.  The  ordinary  access  is 
in  stages  fiom  I^angor  ovi-r  the  Aroos- 
took road,  starting  in  tolerable  coaches 
on  a  tolerable  road,  and  changing  always 
in  both  from  bad  to  worse.  A  pleasant 
route /or  ilie  adviiilurcr  is  down  the  West 
Branch  of  the  Penobscot,  in  a  canoe, 
from  Moosehead  Lake.  "  Birches,"  as 
th(!  boats  are  culled,  and  guides  may  be 
procur(!d  at  the  foot  of  Moosehead,  or  at 
the  Kineo  House,  near  the  centre  of  the 
lake.  By  this  approach  Katahdin  is  seen 
in  much  fiiu'r  out  liiu's  than  from  tiic  cast- 
war. 1. 

SiB;:::ar-Ii«ar?»Iount;ii:j,  upon 
the  Si-lioois  IJivrr,  northeast  of  Mount 
K.itahdin,  is  nearly  2,o()()  feet  high,  and 
from  its  summit  a  magniliccnt  view  is 
commau«led,  whieh  embraces  some  liftv 
124 


mountain  peaks  and  nearly  a  score  of 
jjicturesque  lakes.  Bigelow,  Saddleback, 
Squaw,  Bidd,  Gilead,  the  Speckled  Moun- 
tain, the  Blue  Mountain,  and  other 
heights,  Avith  intervening  waterfalls  and 
brooks,  are  iu  the  neighborhood. 

i?IooseIiea«l  Ijakc,  the  largest 
in  Maine,  is  among  the  northern  hills.  It 
is  35  miles  long,  and,  at  one  point,  is  10 
miles  in  breadth,  though  near  the  centre 
there  is  a  pass  not  over  a  mile  across.  Its 
Avaters  are  deep,  and  furnish  ample  occu- 
pation to  the  angler,  in  their  stores  of 
trout  and  other  fish.  This  lake  may  be 
traversed  in  the  steamboats  employed  in 
towing  lumber  to  the  Kennebec.  A  sum- 
mer hotel  occupies  a  very  picturesque 
site  upon  the  shore  at  the  foot  of  the 
lake.  The  Kineo  House,  midway,  is  the 
usual  stopping-place.  There  are  numerous 
islands  on  the  Moosehead  Lake,  some  of 
which  are  of  great  interest.  On  the  west 
side.  Mount  Kineo  overhangs  the  water, 
at  an  elevation  of  600  feet.  Its  summit 
reveals  a  picture  of  forest  beauty  well 
worthy  the  climbing  to  see.  The  roads 
thither,  lying  through  forest  land,  are 
necessarily  somewhat  rough  and  lonely. 
This  lake  is  the  source  of  the  great  Ken- 
nebec Paver,  by  whose  channels  its  Avaters 
reacli  the  sea.  Tiie  readiest  approach 
from  Boston  or  Portland  is  via  Newport, 
on  the  Voriland  and  Ba)igor  Railvmy. 
(See  NEAvroiiT.) 

Ijjjlic  lIJiuil>:i!S'os-  lies  partly  in 
Maine  and  partly  in  Xcw  Hampshire.  Its 
lei^.glh  is  about  12  miles,  and  its  breadth 
varies  from  one  to  five  miles.  The  outlet 
of  Umbagog  and  the  MargalUvAvay  Kivcr 
form  the  Androscoggin. 

Aii«ls*osco5»'KiBi  ma^l  Moose- 
f  ocKiioguiilic*  l^ulccs  are  iu  the 
vicinity  of  L'nibagog. 

^ebag-o  £*oiid,  a  beautiful  lake 
12  miles  long,  and  from  seven  to  eight 
miles  broad,  is  about  20  miles  from  Port- 
land, on  a  route  thence  to  Conway  and 
the  White  Mountains.  It  is  connected 
with  Portland  by  the  Cumberland  and  Ox- 
ford cDual. 

'I^Sbc  f.*<*Hol)SCOt,  the  largest  and 
most  beautiful  of  the  rivers  of  Maine,  may 
be  reached  daily  from  Boston  and  Port- 
land, by  steamer,  as  far  up  as  Bangor,  and 
also  l)y  railway  from  Portland  to  Bangor. 
It  is  formed  by  two  branches,  the  east  and 


The  Kennebec] 


MAINE. 


[Mount  Desert  Island. 


the  west,  which  unite  neai'  the  centre  of 
the  State,  and  flow  in  a  general  south- 
west course  to  Bangor,  60  miles  from  the 
sea,  and,  at  the  head  of  navigation.  Large 
vessels  can  ascend  to  Bangor,  and  small 
steamboats  navigate  the  river  yet  above. 


At   Banger   the  tide   rises  to 


the  great 


height  of  IV  feet,  an  elevation  which  is 
supposed  to  be  produced  by  the  wedge- 
shaped  form  of  the  bay,  and  by  the  cur- 
rent from  the  Gulf  Stream.  The  length 
of  the  Penobscot,  from  the  junction  of  the 
east  and  the  west  branches  is  185  miles, 
or  measuring  from  the  source  of  the  v/est 
branch,  it  is  300  miles ;  though,  as  far  as 
the  tourist  is  concerned,  it  is  only  60 
miles — beijig  that  portion  between  Bangor 
and  the  ocean.  This  part,  then,  the  Penob- 
scot proper,  ranks,  in  its  pictorial  at- 
tractions, among  the  finest  river  scenery 
of  the  United  States.  In  all  its  course 
there  are  continual  points  of  great  beauty, 
and  verv  often  the  shore  rises  in  striking 
and  even  grand  lines  and  proportions. 

'E'lsc  lieiiiicl>ec  Mlvei*  is  in 
the  w^estern  part  of  the  State,  extending 
from  Moosehead  Lake,  150  miles,  to  the 
Bca.  It  makes  a  descent  in  its  passage  of 
a  thousand  feet,  thus  affording  a  great 
and  valuable  water-power.  The  scenery 
of  the  Kennebec,  though  pleasant,  is  far 
less  striking  than  that  of  the  Penobscot. 
Its  shores  are  thickly  lined  with  towns 


and  villages,  among  which  are  Augusta, 
tlie  capital,  Bath,  llallowell,  and  Water- 
ville. 

'Flae  Aia«Iros<*og-g"iii.  SSivei" 
is  a  fine  stream,  flowing  from  Lake  Ura- 
bagog,  partly  in  New  Hampshire,  but 
chiefly  through  the  southwestern  corner 
of  Maine,  into  the  Kennebec,  20  miles 
from  the  ocean. 

'Use  ^ae©  Itixei'  rises  in  the 
Wliite  Mountains,  passes  through  the 
famous  Notch,  and  flows  into  the  Atlantic. 

Moiant  l>esci*t  lsl«5ad» — A 
summer  trip  to  Mount  Desert  Inland  has 
of  late  years  been  a  pleasant  treat  to 
American  landscape  painters,  and  a  visit 
thither  might  be  equally  grateful  to  the 
general  tourist.  The  vigorous  and  varied 
rock-bound  coast  of  New  England  can  be 
nov/here  seen  to  greater  advantage.  A 
mountain,  2,000  feet  high,  presents  a 
striking  appearance.  Mount  Desert  Isl- 
and is  an  out-of-the-way  nook  of  beauty 
•in  Eixnchman's  Bay,  east  of  the  mouth  of 
the  Penobscot  River.  It  is  40  miles  from 
Bangor,  and  may  be  reached  from  Boston 
by  boat,  via  Bockville,  and  thence  by 
another  steamer,  on  to  Bucksport  (on  the 
Penobscot),  and  thence  by  stage,  via 
Ellsworth,  or  from  Castine,  on  the  Penob- 
scot Bay,  hard  by.  If  the  visitor  here 
cannot  sketch  the  bold,  rocky  cliffs,  he 
can  beguile  the  fish  to  his  heart's  content. 

125 


New  Jehsey.] 


NEW  JERSEY. 


[New  Jersey. 


l^EW    JEESEY. 


Settlements  were  made  in  this  State 
at  Borircn,  by  the  Dutch,  soon  after  their 
arrival  in  New  York.  In  1627  a  Swedish 
coU)ny  was  founded  near  the  shores  of 
the  Dehiware,  in  the  southwestern  part  of 
the  State.  A  droll  account  of  the  quar- 
rels of  these  Swedish  folk  with  the  Dutch- 
men of  New  Amsterdam  may  be  found 
in  "Diedrich  Knickerbocker's"  solemn 
"  History  "  of  the  Amsterdam  colonists. 
New  Jersey  is  one  of  the  original  thirteen 
States.  She  did  her  part  nobly  in  the 
lon^j;  War  of  Independence,  and  her  his- 
torical record  is  of  the  most  eventful 
and  interesting  character — the  famous 
battles  of  Trenton,  of  Princeton,  and  of 
Monmouth,  at  all  of  which  Washington 
was  present  and  victorious,  occurn  1  with- 
in her  limits.  Morristown  was  the  winter 
camp  of  the  American  army  in  17*70  and 
1777. 

New  Jersey  is  bounded  on  the  north 
by  New  York,  on  the  east  by  the  Atlan- 
tic Ocean  and  Hudson  Kivcr,  south  by 
Delaware  Bay,  and  west  by  Delaware 
River.  It  is  1G3  miles  long,  and  from  40 
to  70  miles  wide,  and  includes  an  area  of 
8,235  square  miles.  Though  small  in 
extent,  New  Jersey  yet  presents  many 
natural  attractions  to  the  traveller.  Her 
Pca-coast  abounds  in  favorite  bathing  and 
sporting  resorts  ;  much  visited  by  the  citi- 
zens of  New  York,  Pliiladelphia,  and  Bal- 
timore. Among  these  summer  haunts  are 
Cape  May,  Long  Branch,  Sandy  Hook, 
Atlantic  City,  Deal,  Stjuam  Beach,  anil 
Tuckerton.  In  the  soutliern  and  central 
portions  of  tliis  State  the  country  is  flat 
and  sandy;  in  the  north  are  some  ranges 
of  picturesque  hills,  interspersed  witli 
charming  lakes  and  ponds.  Some  of  the 
Alltgliany  ridges  traverse  New  Jersev, 
f(n'iiiing  the  spurs  known  as  Sclvoolcy's 
Mountain,  Trowbridge,  the  Ramapo,  and 
126 


Second  Mountains.  In  the  northwest- 
ern part  of  the  State  are  the  Blue  Moun- 
tains. The  Neversink  Hills,  rising  nearly 
400  feet  on  the  Atlantic  side,  are  usually 
the  first  and  last  land  seen  by  ocean  voy- 
agers as  they  approach  and  leave  New 
York.  The  celebrated  Palisade  Rocks  of 
the  Hudson  River  are  in  this  State. 


^^'EW  YOIiK  TO  PniLADELPniA. 

There  are  three  routes  between  the 
cities  of  New  York  and  Philadelphia, 
known  respectively  as  the  Kev}  Jtr^ey^ 
the  Camden  and  Amboi/,  and  the  Baritan 
and  Delaware  Bay  Bailivaya.  The  first  is 
the  most  expeditious ;  the  two  latter, 
being  partly  by  water,  are  most  agreeable 
during  the  summer  months. 


MOUTU  I. 

{Via  tJie  2^ew  Jersey Eailtcay.') 

Tnis  route  passes  over  the  New  Jersey^ 
and  the  Philadelphia  and  Trenton  Rail- 
roads. Trains  leave  New  York  (by  ferry 
across  the  Hudson  from  the  foot  of 
Cortland  Street  to  Jersey  City)  several 
times  each  day.  Distance,  88  miles.  Time 
(express  train),  three  to  four  hours. 

Stations. — Jersey  City,  1  mile;  New- 
wark,  9;  Elizabeth,  15;  Rah  way,  19; 
rniontown,  23;  Mctuchin,  27;  New 
Brunswick,  32  ;  Dean's  Pond,  39  ;  Kings- 
ton, 45  ;  Princeton,  48  ;  Trenton,  58  ; 
Bristol,  69;  Cornwolls,  74;  Tacony,  80; 
KeTisington,  86;  Philadolphin,  88. 

This  route,  lying  as  it  does  between 
the  two  greatest  cities  on  the  continent, 
is  an  immense  thoroughfare,  over  which 
floods  of  travel  pour  unceasingly  by  day 
and  by  night.     The  region  is  populous 


Jersey  City.] 


NEW  JERSEY. 


[New  Brunswick. 


and  opulent,  and  necessarily  covered  with 
towns,  villages,  and  villas  ;  for  20  or  25 
miles  from  each  terminus,  over  which  the 
two  cities  spread  their  suburbs,  the 
crowded  trains  are  passing  and  repassing 
continually. 

Jersey  City. — Hotel,  American^ 
9  and  11  Montgomery  Street.  Jersey 
City  is  on  the  Hudson,  opposite  the  city 
of  New  York,  with  which  it  is  connected 
by  numerous  ferries.  The  present  pop- 
ulation is  about  35,000.  Jersey  City  is 
the  New  York  terminus  of  the  Philadel- 
phia and  New  York  and  Erie  Kailroad 
routes,  and  of  the  Morris  Canal.  It  is 
also  the  berth  of  the  Cunard  and  Bremen 
lines  of  Atlantic  steamers.  (For  Ho- 
boken,  Weehawkeu,  and  other  suburban 
villages  on  the  Hudson,  see  Steamboat 
EouTE  FROM  New  York  to  Albany). 

Leaving  Jersey  City,  the  track  over 
which  we  pass  for  two  miles  is  that  used 
also  by  the  great  Erie  Railway,  which  is 
traversed  by  the  tliousands  daily  travel- 
ling between  the  seaboard  and  the  great 
West  and  South. 

Nc^varlc,  —  Hotel,  ]Veivarl\ — New- 
ark, nine  miles  from  New  York  and  78 
from  Philadelphia,  was  settled  in  1G66.  It 
is  built  on  an  elevated  plain,  upon  the 
right  bank  of  the  Passaic  River,  four  miles 
from  its  entrance  into  Newark  Bay,  and  is 
regularly  laid  out  in  wide  streets,  cross- 
ing at  right  angles.  Many  portions  of 
the  city  are  very  elegant,  and  in  its  most 
recherche  quarter  are  two  charming  parks, 
filled  with  noble  elms.  Broad  Street,  its 
main  thoroughfare,  is  a  splendid  avenue. 
Among  its  principal  public  edifices  are 
tlie  Coui't  Iloiifie,  the  Fosi-Ofjice^  the 
Custom  House,  City  Hall,  and  several  of 
the  banks. 

Of  the  literary  institutions,  the  most 
noteworthy  are  the  Library  Association, 
the  State  Historical  Society,  and  the  New- 
ark Academy.  From  the  grounds  at- 
tached to  the  Academy,  an  extended  view 
of  the  Passaic  valley  is  had. 

The  city  contains  over  70  churches, 
some  of  which  are  very  interesting  struc- 
tures, as  the  Catholic,  on  Washington 
Street ;  the  Presbyterian,  near  the  lower 
park,  and  in  High  Street ;  the  Methodist^ 
on  Market  and  Broad  Streets  ;  Grace 
(Episcopal),  and  the  Baptist,  on  Academy 
Street.     The   building  occupied    by  the 


Mutual  Benefit  Life  Insurance  Company 
is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  State. 

The  city  is  divided  into  12  wards,  and 
possesses  some  40  jwhlic  schools,  which 
are  attended  by  more  than  9,000  pupils. 
It  is  the  see  of  a  Roman  Catholic  bishop. 

Newark  is  distinguished  for  its  manu- 
factures of  jewelry,  cariiages,  and  leather. 
It  has  upward  of  550  manufactories. 
Steamboats  as  well  as  railways  connect 
it  with  New  York.  It  is  the  eastern 
terminus  of  the  Morris  and  Essex  Rcdl- 
road,  and  the  Morris  Canal  passes  through 
it  on  its  way  to  Jersey  City.  The  JVew- 
ark  and  Bloomjield  Railway  connects 
with  the  pleasant  suburban  towns  of 
Roseville,  Bloomfield,  and  Mont  Clair. 
The  vicinity  has  many  pleasant  drives 
and  walks,  among  which  is  Lewellyn 
Park,  a  once  famous  place  of  resort. 

Eliza"l>etBa.  — Hotel,  American. 
Elizabeth  (15  miles)  is  situated  upon 
Elizabethtown  Creek,  two  miles  from  its 
entrance  into  Staten  Island  Sound.  It 
was  once  the  capital  and  chief  town  of 
the  State.  Here  the  Central  Railway 
intersects  the  Neiv  Jersey  Railway  to 
Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  and  the  South. 
It  was  first  settled  in  16G5.  It  was  the 
home  of  General  Scott  after  his  retire- 
ment   from     active     life.       Population, 

u,ooo. 

ISala^vay.  —  Hotel,  De  .Graiv^s. 
Rahway  (19  miles)  lies  on  both  sides  of 
the  Rahway  River.  It  is  noted  for  its 
manufacture  of  carriages,  stoves,  hats, 
earthenware,  etc.  Some  3,000  vehicles 
are  annually  sent  hence  to  the  Southern 
market.  It  was  settled  in  1720.  Pop- 
ulation, 8,000. 

NeT»"  ISrMMS^vieli:. —  V/illiains^s 
Hotel.  New  Brunswick  (32  miles),  found- 
ed 1770,  is  pleasantly  situated  at  the 
head  of  steamboat  navigation  on  the 
Raritan  River.  This  is  the  seat  of  Ritt- 
ger^s  College  and  School,  and  also  of  a 
Theological  Seminary  of  the  Dutch  Re- 
formed Church,  known  as  Hertzog  Theo- 
logical Hall.  The  streets  on  the  river  are 
narrow  and  crooked,  and  the  ground  low  ; 
but  those  on  the  upper  bank  are  wide,  and 
many  of  the  dwellings  are  very  neat  and 
even  elegant,  being  surrounded  by  fine 
gardens.  From  the  site  of  Rutger's  Col- 
lege on  the  hill  there  is  a  wide  prospect, 
terminated  by  mountains    on  the  north 

127 


Princeton.] 


NEW  JEKSEY. 


[Trenton. 


and  by  Karitan  Bay  on  the  east.  The 
Delaware  and  Raritau  Canal  extends 
from  New  IJruuswick  to  Bordentown,  on 
the  Delaware  River,  42  miles.  This 
canal  is  75  foet  wide  and  seven  feet  deep, 
and  is  navigable  by  sloops  and  steam- 
boats of  150  tons.  This  fine  work  eost 
^2,5(J(),<)U;).  The  railway  here  erosses 
the  Karitan  River.  Population,  14,000. 
Passengers  for  Dean's  Pond,  Kingston, 
and  Rocky  Hill,  leave  the  main  line  here. 
I'riiicc'tOEi,  built  on  an  elevated 
ridge  two  and  a  half  miles  north  of 
Princeton  Junction,  48  miles  from  Xew 
York,  is  a  pleasant  little  town  of  literary 
and  historical  interest.  It  is  the  seat  of 
Princeton  College,  one  of  the  oldest  and 
most  famous  educational  establishments 
in  the  country.  It  was  founded  by  the  Pres- 
byterians at  Elizabethlown,  1*756,  and  re- 
moved to  Princeton  in  1757.  The  col- 
lege building,  which  is  known  as  Xassmt 
Hall,  is  a  spacious  edifice,  176  feet  by  50 
feet,  and  four  stories  high.  The  Hall 
stands  in  the  centre  of  spacious  grounds 
fronting  on  Main  Street.  Peale's  picture 
of  Washmgton  is  an  object  of  consid- 
erable interest.  Here  also  is  the  Thco- 
lof/ical  /Seminary  of  the  Presbyterian 
Church,  founded  in  1812.  About  one 
and  a  quarter  miles  south  of  Princeton  is 
the  battle-ground  where  was  fought  the 
memorable  conflict  of  January  3,  1777, 
between  the  American  forces  under  Gen- 
eral Washington,  and  those  of  the  Brit- 
ish under  Lieutenant-Colonel  Mawhood,  in 
which  the  latter  were  vancpiished.  The 
house  in  which  General  Mercer  died,  near 
the  Trenton  turnpike,  is  still  pointed  out. 

Xrcnton. — Hotels,  Trenton  House, 
American  lloufic. 

Trenton,  the  capital  of  New  Jersey,  is 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Delaware,  30 
miles  from  Philadelphia  and  58  from 
New  York.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out, 
and  has  many  fine  stores  and  handsome 
dwellings.  It  is  divided  into  Noith  and 
South  Trenton  by  the  Assumpsink  Creek, 
The  IStatc  Jlome,  which  is  100  feet  long 
and  (10  wide,  is  built  of  stone,  and  stuc- 
coed so  as  to  resemble  granite.  Its  situa- 
tion on  the  Delaware  is  very  beautil'ul, 
commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  river  and 
vicinity.  Here  is  the  Nate  Lunalic 
Asylum,  founded  in  1818,  and  also  the 
128 


State  Pcniteniiarf/.  ^V7dte  Hall,  used  for 
barracks  by  the  Hessians  in  1776,  is  still 
to  be  seen  on  the  south  side  of  Front 
Street.  Trenton  has  three  daily  and  two 
other  newspapers,  20  churches,  and  a 
State  Library.  The  city  is  lighted  with 
gas.  Thirty  thousand  dollars  have  been 
subscribed  for  a  race-course,  similar  to 
that  at  Paterson,  N.  J.  The  Delaware 
is  here  crossed  by  a  handsome  covered 
bridge,  1,100  feet  long,  resting  on  five 
arches,  supported  on  stone  piers,  which 
is  considered  a  fine  specimen  of  its 
kind.  It  has  two  carriage-ways,  one  of 
which  is  used  by  the  railroad.  The 
Delaware  and  Raritan  Canal,  forming 
an  inland  navigation  from  New  Bruns- 
wick, passes  through  Trenton  to  the 
Delaware  at  Bordentown.  It  is  supplied 
by  a  navigable  feeder,  taken  from  the 
Delaware,  23  miles  north  of  Trenton.  It 
was  completed  in  1834,  at  a  cost  of 
$2,500,000.  This  canal  passes  through 
the  city,  and  connects  it  with  New  York 
and  Philadelphia.  At  this  point  the  JS^ew 
Jerseij  Jiailroad,  which  we  have  thus  far 
travelled,  57  miles  from  New  York,  ends, 
and  the  FhiladclpJda  and  Trenton,  npou 
Vvhich  we  make  the  rest  of  our  journey, 
begins.  A  branch  road,  six  miles  long, 
connects  with  the  Camden  and  Amhoy 
Ixailroad  at  Bordentown.  The  Belvidcre, 
Delaieare,  and  Flemington  Railroad  runs 
hence,  63  miles,  to  Belvidere,  in  the  in- 
terior, along  the  Delaware  River.  The 
suburban  villages  of  Bloomshury,  Lam- 
beth, and  Mill  Hill  are  now  included  in 
the  corporate  limits  of  Trenton.  Trenton 
was  first  settled  by  Phineas  Pemberton 
and  others  about  1680,  and  was  r.himed 
in  1720  after  Colonel  William  Trent, 
Speaker  of  the  House  of  Assembly.  The 
Battle  of  Trenton  was  fought  December 
26,  1776.  On  Christmas  night,  in  1776, 
and  during  the  most  gloomy  period  of 
the  Revolutionary  War,  General  Wash- 
ington crossed  the  Delaware  with  2,500 
men,  and  early  on  the  morning  of  the 
2Gth  commenced  an  attack  upon  Trenton, 
then  in  posses.-ion  of  the  British.  So 
sudden  and  unexpected  was  the  assault, 
that  of  the  1,500  German  troops  en- 
camped there,  1)06  were  made  prisoners. 
This  successful  enterprise  revived  the 
spirit  of  the  nation,  as  it  was  the  first 
victory  gained  over  the  German  soldiers. 


South  Amboy.] 


KEW  JERSEY. 


[Burlington. 


General  Mercer,  a  brave  American  ofEcer, 
was  mortally  wounded  in  the  attack. 

It  was  here,  upon  Trenton  Brklge^  that 
occurred  the  memorable  and  beautiful  re- 
ception of  Wasliington,  while  on  his  way 
from  New  York  to  Mount  Vernon,  12 
years  after  the  glorious  victory.  Tren- 
ton was  selected  as  the  State  capital  in 
lYOO,  and  incorporated  in  1'792.  Its 
present  population  is  nearly  20,000. 
Here  the  traveller  can  take  the  Branch 
Road,  six  miles  to  Bordentown,  and 
thence  by  Camden  and  Amboy  line,  or 
■  jitinue,  as  ^ve  now  do,  by  Philadelphia 
nd  Trentou  route.     (See  Philadelphia 

.liOUTES.) 

ISriititol,  ]*ennsylvania  (69  miles), 
founded  in  1697,  is  a  beautiful  village  on 
•  he  west  bank  oi'  the  Delaware,  nearly  op- 
posite Burlington.  The  Delaware  division 
of  the  Pennsylvania  Canal,  which  commu- 
nicates with  the  Lehigh  at  Easlon,  termi- 
nates here  in  a  'spacious  basin  on  the  Del- 
.i  ware.  It  has  a  valuable  mineral  spring. 
Daily  communi(  ation  with  Philadelphia 
'jy  boat.     Pop'  lation,  3,500. 

Tacony  and  Kendncjton  are  within  the 
corporate  limit-  of  Philadelphia. 


Iiy)UTE  II. 

NEW  YORK  TO  PHILADELPHIA. 

(Oamden  and  Atiboy  (or  steambGat)  Poute.) 

From  pier  :\o.  1,  N.  R.,  New  York, 
daily  (Sundays  ijxcepted)  for  South  Am- 
boy, 30  miles,  iuid  thence  by  rail. 

Stations. — New  York,  South  Amboy, 
30  miles;  Soufli  River,  38;  Spotswood, 
40  ;  Jamcsburg.  -i4 ;  Prospect  Plains,  46  ; 
Cranberry  Station,  48  ;  Hightstown,  51  ; 
"Windsor,  54;  Nvwtown,  57  ;  Bordentown, 
64 ;  Burlington,  74 ;  Beverley,  77  ;  De- 
lanco,  79 ;  Palmyra,  84 ;  Camden,  91  ; 
Philadelphia,  92. 

In  the  summer  season  no  more  delight- 
j'n]  jnnrTirv  en;  1  ,e  made  than  the  first  SO 
miles  of  our  present  route  across  the 
lovely  bay  and  harbor  of  New  York,  to 
South  Amboy,  past  the  villaged  and 
viUaed  shores  of  Staten  Island  and  the 
Raritan  River.  (See  New  York  and 
Vicinity.) 

SoiitlB.  Amfeoy  (30  miles)  is  the 


steamboat  landing-place,  and  the  northern 
terminus  of  the  Camden  and  Amboy  Jidil- 
road.  It  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  Raritan 
River,  at  the  entrance  of  Raritan  Bay. 
Upon  arriving  here,  passengers  are  trans- 
ported in  a  short  space  of  time  from  the 
steamboat  to  the  railroad  cars ;  and, 
after  a  slight  detention,  proceed  on  the 
journey  up  a  steep  ascent  from  the 
river,  and  soon  enter  a  deep  cutting 
through  the  sand-hills.  The  road  is  then 
continued  through  a  barren  and  uninter- 
esting region  of  country  toward  the  Del- 
aware at  Bordentown. 

Jameshurg   (44   miles).      Junction    of 
Freehold  evnelJamcvhurej Eailroael. 

12oi'«leiit©^r  Bi  (64  miles),  is  situated 
on  a  steep  sand-bank,  on  the  east  side  of 
the  Delaware.  The  principal  objects  of  in- 
terest here  are  the  extensive  grounds  and 
mansion  formerly  occupied  by  the  late 
Joseph  Bonaparte,  ex-kiug  of  Spain.  Al- 
though in  a  commanding  situation,  the 
view  is  greatly  obstructed  from  the 
river.  This  is  a  favorite  resort  of  the 
Philadelphians-during  the  summer  season. 
The  Delaware  and  Raritan  Canal  here 
connects  with  the  Delaware  River.  A 
branch  road,  six  miles  long,  on  the  bank 
of  the  canal  and  river,  unites  this  towft 
with  Trenton,  Bordentown  was  incor- 
porated in  1825,  and  has  a  population  of 
6,000.  Nearly  opposite  Bordentown  once 
stood  the  Palace,  the  country  seat  of 
William  Penn.  It  was  constructed  in 
1683,  at  an  expense  of  $35,000. 

IBKS'iiisg'toUo — Hotels,  Ciiy^  Bel- 
dcn''s. 

Burlington  (74  miles)  is  a  port  of  entry 
en  the  Delaware,  19  miles  from  Philadel- 
phia. Burlington  College^  founded  by 
the  Episcopalians  in  1846,  is  located 
here,  and  there  are  besides,  upon  the 
banks  of  the  river,  two  larc;e  boarding- 
schools,  one  for  each  sex.  Burlington  is 
connected  with  Philadelphia  by  steam- 
boat, and  is  a  place  of  great  summer  re- 
sort thence.  It  was  settled  in  1667,  was 
originally  called  New  Beverly,  and  has  a 
population  of  6,000.  A  branch  road  to 
Mount  Holly,  six  miles. 

Beverlg,  built  on  the  banks  of  the  Del 
aware  since  1848,  has  now  a  population 
of  1,500.     It  is  a  suburb  of  Philadelphia 
distant  15  miles. 

CamcleM.  is  at  the  tcrmJnus  of  our 

129 


Camden.] 


NEW  JERSEY. 


[Long  Branch. 


route,  upon  the  east  bank  of  the  Delaware 
river,  immediately  opposite  the  city  of 
Fhihulelphia,  with  which  there  is  con- 
stant couimuuication  by  ferr)^  It  is  the 
terminus  also  of  the  West  Jersey  and 
Camden  and  Atlantic  RaUroads.  It  was 
chartered  in  1831,  and  already  contains 
nearly  20,000  inhabitants.  The  vicinity 
abounds  in  fruit  and  vegetable  gardens. 
(See  riiiLADELi'iiiA  andYicinitv.) 


MOUTE  III. 

^TEW   YORK  TO   LONG    BRAKCH,  AT- 
LANTIC CITY,  AND  rniLADELI'IIIA. 

(  Via  Raritan  and  Delaware  Bay  Railway.) 

This  is  a  pleasant  and  expeditious 
summer  route  to  Red  Bank,  Long  Brand), 
Deal,  Squam  Beach,  Tom's  River,  and  At- 
lantic City.  From  Pier  No.  32  N.  R.  by 
steamboat  "  Jesse  Tloyt,"  to  Port  Mon- 
mouth, and  thence  by  rail. 

Station's. — Highlands,  22  miles ;  Red 
Bank,  2G ;  Shrewsbury,  28 ;  Oceanport, 
31;  Long  Branch,  34;  Squankum,  40; 
Manchester,  54 ;  Jackson  Junction 
(branch)  to  Atlantic  City,  93 ;  Camden, 
11 -J. 

Atlantic  City. — IIotels,  the 
Uni'ed  States,  Surf  IIoiisc. 

Atlantic  City,  61  miles  from  Philadel- 
phia, and  133  from  New  York,  may  be 
reached  from  the  former  city  twice  daily 
by  the  Camden  and  Atlantic  liailroad. 
It  has  fine  accommodation  for  bathing, 
and  is  a  i)lace  much  resorted  to  by  visitors 
from  Philadelphia  and  New  York.  The 
season  at  Atlantic  City  and  Cape  ^May 
opens  about  July  10th,  and  closes  Sep- 
toM'ber  15th. 

Ld  o  II  ;i;  ISrniicIi. — Hotels,  Stet- 
son .■*,  the  Continental,  the  Marviion. 

Among  the  more  modern  watering- 
places  of  America,  Long  Brancli  deserv- 
edly occupies  a  prominent  position.  Its 
special  recommendations  are  its  proximity 
to  New  Yoric,  its  easy  and  pleasant  access, 
and  tlie  invigorating  inlluences  of  its 
ocean  breezes,  combined  with  its  l)!ithing 
privileges.  The  liotcl  acconmiodation  of 
the  jd.iee,  wliieh  ;'S  lute  as  18C1  was  al- 
most wholly  monojjolized  by  the  Man- 
sion, IJowland,  and  United  States,  has 
now  been  so  greatly  extended  as  to  em- 
130 


brace  five  large  first-class  hotels,  and  as 
many  more  of  smaller  dimensions,  but 
scarcely  less  liberal  fare  and  appoint- 
ments, well  adapted  to  the  tastes  and 
wants  of  private  families.  Stctsorts,  at 
the  south  end  of  the  main  avenue  or 
drive,  has  few  equals  as  a  watering-place 
hotel  in  the  country.  During  the  height 
of  the  season  it  is  thronged  with  the 
beauty  and  fashion  of  the  metropolis. 
Band  of  music  nightly. 

There  is  admirable  sport  in  this  vicinity 
for  the  angler.  The  Shrewsburv  River,  on 
the  one  side,  and  the  ocean  on  the  other, 
swarm  with  all  the  dehcate  varieties  of 
fish  with  which  our  markets  abound. 

Shrewsbury,  lied  I>ank,  and  7viton 
Falls,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Branch,  are 
also  places  much  resorted  to.  A  favorite 
route  to  Long  Branch  is  by  the  Seaside 
.Railway.  Steamer  "  William  Cook,"  from 
foot  of  Barclay  Street,  twice  daily  during 
the  season.  Time  to  the  Branch,  one  and 
a  half  hours. 


MOUTE  IV, 

<  Via  Jersey  Central  Railway.) 

From  foot  of  Liberty  Street,  New  York 
(pier  15  N.  R.)  to  Jersey  City,  and  thence 
by  rail,  via  Bergen  Point. 

Stations. — Elizabeth,  13  miles ;  Craw- 
ford, 17  ;  Scotch  Plains,  22 ;  Plainficld, 
24 ;  Somerville,  SO  ;  Whitehouse,  46  ; 
High  Bridge,  54 ;  Hampton  Junction, 
59 ;  Phillipsburg,  74 ;  Easton,  Pa.,  75,  and 
the  West. 

I5oi*g-cii  (4  miles)  is  a  pleasant  vil- 
lage in  Hudson  County,  on  the  summit 
of  Bergen  Ridge.  It  was  first  settled  in 
1616.  Bergen  Point,  reached  by  car  or 
steamboat  from  New  York,  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  Kills.  It  is  a  place  of 
much  resort  during  the  summer  months. 
The  iMiountlc  House  is  open  for  visit- 
ors from  June  loth. 

Sootcli  l*l:iiais  (22  miles)  con- 
taii.s  a  chureli  edifice  and  upward  of  100 
dwellings,  mo^tly  occupied  by  visitors 
during  the  sun:mer  months. 

l*i:ti»fB<^lci  (24  miles),  in  I'nion 
County,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  Green 
Brook,  20  miles  west-southwest  of  New- 
ark.    It  is  surrounded  by  a  rich  farming 


MORRISTOWN.] 


NEW  JERSEY. 


[Paterson. 


country.  It  was  laid  out  in  1'735.  Popula- 
tion, during  the  summer  months,  4,500. 

Somerville  (36  miles),  South  Branch 
Railroad  to  Flcmington. 

Kcw  Hampton  (59  miles)  is  in  Hunter- 
don County,  16  miles  north-northwest  of 
Flemington.  This  is  the  southern  termi- 
nus of  the  JJelau'are,  Lackaivanna  and 
Western  Ix'aihoaj/  of  Pennsylvania,  which 
leads  through  the  Water  Gap  to  Scranton, 
Great  Bend,  Binghamton,  and  the  North. 

ISlooMisfeiii'y  {Ql  miles)  is  pleas- 
antly situated  on  the  Muscanetcong 
River,  on  the  boundary-line  of  Warren 
and  Hunterdon  Counties. 

MOUTE  V. 

NEW  YORK  TO  llonniSTOWN  AND 
HA  CKETTSTO  ^YN. 

{Via  Morris  and  Essex  Railway.) 

(Ferry  foot  of  Barclay  Street,  New 
York.) 

Stations. — Hoboken,  If  miles;  New- 
ark, 10  ;  Orange,  14  ;  South  Orange,  16  ; 
Miliburn,  19  ;  Summit,  23  ;  Chatham,  26  ; 
Madison,  28 ;  Morristown,  32 ;  Morris 
Plains,  34  ;  Denville,  39  :  Rockaway,  41 ; 
Dover,  44 ;  Drakesville,  49  ;  Stanhope, 
54  ;  Waterloo,  57  ;  Hackettstown,  62. 

J^loi'Fistowii  (32  miles),  the  capital 
of  3Iorris  County,  is  splendidly  situated  on 
the  Whippany  River.  It  is  noteworthy 
as  having  been  the  headquarters  of  the 
American  army  on  two  occasions.  The 
house  occupied  by  General  Washington 
is  still  pointed  out.  The  town  contains  a 
fine  public  square,  court-house,  and  sev- 
eral churches.     Population,  4,000. 

Dover  (44  miles),  on  the  Rockaway 
River,  12  miles  beyond  Morristown, 
has  extensive  manufactories  of  iron  and 
steel. 

MaclcettstOTvn  (62  miles)  is  the 
terminus  of  the  Morris  and  Ekscx  JRail- 
way.  It  is  on  the  Muscanetcong  Creek, 
near  the  Morris  Canal,  about  50  miles 
north  of  Trenton.  It  was  incorporated 
in  1852,  and  has  extensive  fiouring-mills. 

MOUTE  VI. 

(  Via  Northern  New  Jersey  Railway. ) 

Trains  leave  Jersey  City  four  times 
daily  for  Bergen,  New  Durham,  Allerton's, 


Hackensaek  Junction,  Fort  Lee,  Engle- 
wood,  Cresskill,  Closter,  Tappan,  and 
Pierraont.  Distance,  25  miles.  Time,  one 
and  a  half  hours. 

Ilsat'lcesasaclft:,  the  chief  town  of 
Bergen  County,  is  pleasantly  situated  on 
the  west  bank  of  the  Hackensaek  River, 
from  which  it  derives  its  name,  13  miles 
north  by  west  of  New  York.  It  contains 
about  250  dwellings  and  several  church 
edifices. 

I*atersoia,  the  capital  of  Passaic 
County,  is  finely  situated  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Passaic  River,  immediately 
below  the  falls.  It  is  12  miles  Irom  New 
York,  by  the  Erie  Raihi'ay.  It  was 
founded  in  1791.  In  point  of  population 
it  is  the  third  city  of  the  State,  in  manu- 
factures the  second.  Many  of  its  cotton 
manufactories  are  quite  extensive.  One 
of  the  most  extensive  silk-mills  in  the 
United  States  is  located  here,  employing 
nearly  800  hands.  It  is  connected  by 
bridges  with  the  village  of  Manchester. 
In  the  neighborhood  of  the  city  is  a  fine 
race-course,  largely  frequented  by  patrons 
of  the  turf  Population,  20,000.  The 
Falls  of  the  EassaiCj  though  less  frequent- 
ed of  late  than  formerly,  attract  an- 
nually large  numbers  of  visitors.  The 
total  descent  of  the  river  is  12  feet,  afford- 
ing a  fine  water-power.  At  Secccatic?c.s,  on 
the  plank-road  from  Hoboken  to  Pater- 
son and  about  five  miles  from  the  former 
point,  are  the  race-course  of  the  Hudson 
County  i\ssociation,  and  the  training- 
stables  of  Colonel  McDaniels. 

Cape  May. — Hotels  :  Congress 
Hall.,  under  the  proprietorship  of  J.  F. 
Cake  &  Co.,  has  been  extended  and  im- 
proved. It  now  embraces  the  former 
grounds,  with  the  addition  of  the  Ocean 
House  grounds,  giving  a  sea  frontage  of 
1,200  feet,  and  accommodation  for  1,200 
guests.  The  Columbia  is  now  under  the 
management  of  Mr,  George  J.  Bolton,  of 
the  Bolton  House,  Harrisburg,  and  is 
strictly  a  first-class  house,  with  fine  con- 
veniences for  bathing.  The  United  States 
is  also  a  well-kept  and  popular  house.  A 
new  hotel  on  the  site  of  the  old  Mount 
Vernon  Hotel,  at  the  north  end  of  Cape 
Island,  is  spoken  of,  but  not  yet  com- 
menced. 

Route. — From  New  York  every  evening 

131 


Schooley's  Mountain.] 


NEW  JERSEY. 


[Gkeenwood  Lake. 


durino;  the  Fcason  by  ptcamboat.  From 
Philadelphia  (Camden),  by  West  Jersey 
Rallwaij  to  (dassboro,  and  thence  by  Cape 
Ml  1 1)  and  MWville  RaUwaii  ;  distance,  80 
miles.  (See  Routes  from  riiiLADELPiiiA.) 
Cape  May  is  at  the  extreme  southern  point 
of  New  Jersey,  where  the  floods  of  the 
Delaware  are  lost  in  the  greater  floods  of 
the  Atlantic.  The  beach  for  bathing  or 
driving  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  Atlantic 
coast.The  little  village  of  the  Cape  (Cape 
Island)  is  thronged  iij  the  summer  season 
by  thousands  of  gratified  pleasure-seekers. 
Tliey  come  chiefly  from  rhiladelphia,  Bal- 
timore, ami  the  South. 

Cold  S/jrim/,  two  miles  north  of  the 
beach,  on  the  line  of  the  railroad,  aflbrds 
a  pleasant  drive  and  picnic  place.  No 
hotel  accommodation  yet  at  this  Spring. 

S  c  li  o  o  1  e  y's»  I^Iountaiii. — 
Hotel,  the  Heath  House. 

llouTE. — From  New  York,  by  the  Mor- 
ris and  Esaex  Railway^  62  miles  to  ilack- 
ettstown,  and  thence  2i  miles  by  stage. 
Visitors  from  the  South  proceed  via  Phila- 
delphia and  New  Brunswick,  connecting 
with  the  New  Jersey  Central  Railway  at 
Bound  Brook,  and  from  this  line  as  above. 
The  height  of  the  mountain  is  about 
1,100  feet  above  the  sea.  Springs,  con- 
taining muriate  of  soda,  of  lime,  and  of 
magnesia,  sulphate  of  lime,  carbonate  of 
magnesia,  and  silex,  and  carbonated  oxide 
of  iron,  are  near  its  summit. 

ltii<lcl''!!»  liUlce. — Hotel,  the  For- 
rest J  louse. 

From  New  York  by  the  Morris  and 
Essex  Railway^  54  miles  to  Stanhope,  and 
thence,  '1\  miles  by  stage.  Budd's  Lake 
is  a  beautiful  mountain  water,  deep,  pure, 
and  well  supplied  with  flsh. 
132 


CJrceiiT^'ood.  I^alce,  —  Hotel, 
the  Windermere  lIou%e. 

From  New  York  by  Erie  Railway^  60 
miles  to  Monroe,  and  thence  by  stage.  To 
Greenwood  Lake,  sometimes  called  Long 
Pond,  is  a  very  agreeable  jaunt  from  the 
metropolis,  whether  for  the  pure  air  of  the 
hills,  the  pleasant  aspects  of  Nature,  or  for 
the  sports  of  the  rod  and  the  gun.  Green- 
wood lies  in  Orange  County,  8  miles  south- 
west of  Chester,  in  the  midst  of  a  very 
picturesque  mountain  region.  It  is  a 
beautiful  water  of  seven  miles  in  extent, 
and  all  about  it,  in  every  direction,  are 
lesser  but  scarcely  less  charming  lakes 
and  lakelets,  some  of  which,  in  a  ride  or 
ramble  over  the  country,  delight  the  eye 
where  least  dreamed  of.  Such  an  unex- 
pected vision  is  Lake  Macopin,  and  the 
larger  waters  of  the  Wawayandah.  The 
last-mentioned  lake  is  situated  in  the  ^Va- 
wayandah  Mountains,  about  Similes  from 
the  New  York  and  New  Jersey  boundary- 
line.  The  word  "Wawayandah  signifies 
winding  stream,  and  is  very  characteristic 
of  the  serpentine  course  of  the  outlet  of 
this  lake  toward  the  Wallkill.  AN'away- 
andah  is  almost  divided  by  an  island  into 
two  ponds,  and  thus  gets  its  home  name 
of  "  Double  Pond."  It  is  very  deep,  and 
abounds  in  fine  trout.  This  varied  hill 
and  lake  neighborhood  presents  in  its  gen- 
eral air  an  admirable  blending  of  the  wild 
ruggedness  of  the  great  mountain  ranges 
and  the  pastoral  sweetness  of  the  fertile 
valley  lands ;  for  it  possesses  the  fea- 
tures of  both,  though  of  neither  in  the 
highest  degree.  (For  other  jdaces  and 
summer  resorts  in  New  Jersey,  see  New 
York  City,  and  PniLADELniiA  and  Vi- 
cinity.) 


Dl  I, AWARE.] 


DELAWARE. 


[Delaware. 


DELAWAKE. 


Delaware  is,  next  to  Eliode  Island, 
ii;<  smallest  State  in  the  Union — her 
sicatest  length  and  breadth  being,  respee- 
tively,  only  96  and  37  miles.  The  first 
Sv'itlements  within  the  limits  of  the  State 
Avcre  made  by  the  Swedes  and  Finns  about 
111)  year  1627.  In  1655  the  country  fell 
into  the  possession  of  the  Dutch,  and  in 
Jt;64  passed  imder  British  rule.  It  was 
originally  a  portion  of  Pennsylvania,  and 
was  goveraed  by  the  rulers  of  that  colony 
ui;til  the  time  of  the  Revolution. 

The  landscape  of  the  northern  portion 
c*  Delaware  is  agreeably  varied  with  pic- 
turesque hills  and  pleasant  vales.  In  the 
central  and  southern  portions  of  the  State 
tl'.e  country  is  level,  ending  in  marsh  and 
swamp  lands.  The  only  considerable 
waters  of  the  State  are  the  Delaware 
River  and  Bay,  on  its  eastern  boundary. 
1'iie  eastern  shore  of  Maryland,  which 
i?  easily  reached  from  the  railway  lines  of 
D  ilaware,  offers  great  attractions  to  sports- 
}t,9n  and  tourists  inMaryland.  The  Bran- 
d;  wine  is  a  romantic  stream,  famous  for 
ti'e  Revolutionary  battle  fought  upon  its 
b;i,nks  near  the  limits  of  this  State,  Sep- 
tember, 177Y.  Lords  Cornwallis  and 
3 1  owe,  Generals  Washington,  Lafayette, 
Gi-eene,  Wayne,  and  other  distinguish- 
f^d  English  and  American  leaders,  took 
part  in  this  memorable  conflict.  The 
j\mericans  retreated  to  Germantown, 
■  ith  a  loss  of  1,200  men,  while  the  British 
n^mained  in  possession  of  the  field,  with 
{.  loss  of  about  800.  The  population  of 
t:.e  State  in  1860  was  112,216.  Though 
strongly  urged  to  join  the  Southern  States 
\\  the  secession  movement,  Delaware  re- 
r  ained  true  to  the  Union  throughout  the 
T  ar,  and  furnished  2,000  soldiers  to  the 
T  ederal  army  at  the  outbreak  of  the  re- 
l  3llion. 

Routes. — The  direct  routes  between 


Philadelphia  and  Baltimore  are — the 
Eailroad  Line  and  the  Steamboat  and 
Railroad  alternately.  The  distance 
by  the  former  route  is  98  miles  ;  thne, 
four  hours.  Tourists,  with  ample  time, 
and  who  are  desirous  of  varying  the 
route  of  travel,  will  find  that  over  the 
Columbia  Branch  of  the  Pennsylvania 
Central  Railroad  to  Columbia,  on  the 
Susquehanna  River,  thence  to  Yorh^  and 
thence  by  Northern  Centred  Raihoay  to 
Baltimore,  a  very  pleasant  excursion. 
Distance,  153  miles.  Another  route  open 
to  towisis^  is  from  Philadelphia  by  steam- 
boat down  the  Delaware  River  to  Del- 
aware City,  46  miles ;  thence  through 
the  Chesapeake  and  Delaivare  Canal,  16 
miles ;  and  thence  down  Elk  River  and 
Chesapeake  Bay,  and  up  the  Patapsco 
River  to  Baltimore,  56  miles;  total,  116 
miles.  The  great  feature  of  interest  on 
this  route,  and  perhaps  the  only  induce- 
ment to  deviate  from  the  regularly  trav- 
elled route  by  the  Philadelphia .,  Wihning- 
ton  and  Baltimore  Railway),  would  be 
the  pleasure  of  seeing  the  formidable 
excavation  on  the  Chesapeake  and  Del- 
aware Canal,  tei-med  the  "  Deep  Cut," 
which  extends  for  six  miles,  and  is  70 
feet  deep  in  the  deepest  part.  A  bridge 
of  235  feet  span  extends  over  this  great 
chasm,  at  an  elevation  of  90  feet  above 
the  canal,  under  which  steamboats, 
schooners,  and  other  small  vessels  can 
pass.  This  canal  is  66  feet  wide  at  the 
surface,  and  10  feet  deep,  with  two  lift 
and  two  tide  locks,  100  feet  long  by  22 
wide.  It  was  completed  in  1829,  at  a 
cost  of  $2,750,000.  As  already  stated, 
the  shortest,  most  expeditious,  and  by  far 
the  most  popular  line  of  travel  between 
Pliiladelphia  and  Baltimore  is  that  af- 
forded by  the  Philadelphia,  Wilmington^ 
and  Baltimore  Railway.     This  fine  road, 

133 


Chester.] 


DELAWARE. 


[WiLMISGTON. 


the  result  of  a  combination  of  three  com- 
panies, has  been  completed  and  in  opera- 
tion since  February,  1838.  Ihe  cost  of 
road  and  equipment  has  been  upward 
of  ^10  000,000,  and  its  management  ha^ 
been  such  ks  to  inspire  the  utmost  con- 
fidence and  the  most  liberal  support. 

MOUTE  J. 

PJIJLA  DELPniA,  YirWl^:?^?A?0?E  ^'^^ 
DE  GRACE,  AND  BALTIMOl^E. 

(Passenger  Station.  Broad  Street,  corner 
Washington  Avenue.) 

Stations. — Gray's  Ferry,  '2  miles  ;  Laz- 
aretto, 11;  Chester,  14-,  Thurlow,  IG ; 
Clavmont,  20;  Bellcvue,  23;  Vvilming- 
tonj  28 ;  New  Castle  Junction,  30 ; 
Newport,  32  ;  Stanton,  34  ;  Newark,  40  ; 
Elkton,40;  Northeast,  52  ;  Charlcstown, 
55  ;  rcrryville,  61 ;  Havre  de  Grace,  62  ; 
Aberdeen,  67  ;  rcrr)-mansville,  71 ;  Bu>h 
lliver,  74  ;  Edgewood,  77  ;  Majz^iolia,  7^  ; 
Harewood,  81;  Chase's,  13-Mile  Switch, 
8G ;  Stemmer's  Run,  89 ;  Back  Kivcr, 
91  ;  Baltimore,  98. 

Leaving  the  depot,  the  route  lies 
through  the  now  busy  subiu-bs  to  the 
Schuylkill  lliver,  at  Gray's  Ferry,  which 
is  crossed  over  a  handsome  bridge  in 
view  of  Woodlands  Cemetery.  An  obe- 
lisk, built  by  the  railroad  company,  to 
commemorate  its  completion,  stands  on 
the  right,  near  the  bridge,  which  is  some- 
times referred  to  as  the  "Newark  Vi- 
aduct." Passing  the  Lazarei/o,  a  large 
building,  surmounted  by  a  cupola,  stand- 
ing on  the  banks  of  the  Delaware,  11 
miles  from  I'hiladelphia,  we  shortly 
roacli 

i'lM'sior  (14  miles),  interesting  to 
the  tourist  as  the  point  where  the  Ameri- 
can army  crossed  the  Delaware  in  1777, 
to  intercept  the  British  troops  on  their 
march  tr)  Bhiladcli)hia.    It  is  nt  the  mouth 
of  Choter  Creek,  and  is  divided  bv  that 
Htream.     It  lias  the  distinction  of  "being 
lh<'  (.Idest  town  in  the  State,  having  been 
Fettled  by  (he  Swedes  in  1613.     its  ori- 
ginal  name    was    Ipland.       The   Indian 
iiiutic  was  Mccopoiiaca.    Extensive  dairies 
nre  in  tlic   neighborliood.     Tiie  Provin- 
cial Assembly   was    held    here   in  1G82, 
A\  illiani  Penn  being  then  Governor.    The  I 
134 


precise  spot  where  Tenn  landed  ^o^  em 
ber,    1682),    on   the    bank    of  the  Del 
aware,  south    of     Chester    Creek     ad 
marked  by  a  holly,  is  still  pomted  out. 
The  old  Couri-Houfic,  erected  m  i  <-*,  i» 

Population, 


an    interesting    structure 


Four  miles  beyond  Chester  we  reach 
the  line  which  'divides    the    Keystone 
State  from  Delaware,  and  crossmg  >aa- 
man's  Creek  (Claymont),  a  little  beyond 
Linwood  Station  {Ilarcus  Hook   oi  the 
Dutch)    we  reach    the   Brandywme,  ta- 
mous  for  the  battle  fought  on  its  banks 
September,  1778,  and  soon  after  Be  e- 
vue   (23   miles).     Woolton  Hall   on  ihc 
right,  is  a  handsome  mansion  m  the  Nor- 
man style,  finished  in  1855. 

^Viiiiiistg'toii  (28  mdes).— Hotels, 
Indian   Queen,  United  States.     Wilmmg- 
ton,  the   most  important  town  between 
Philadelphia  and  Baltimore,  is  situated 
between  the  Brandywine   River  and  the 
Christiana  Creek    (Minquas),    one    mile 
above  their  junction,  and  in  the  midst  of 
one  of  the  finest  agricultural  districts  in 
the  Middle  States.     It  occupies  the  site 
of  Fort  Christiana,  and  the  village  built 
back  of  it,  and  called  by  the  Dutch  Chris- 
tianham.     On  the  surrender  of  the  Dutch 
possessions  in  Delaware  (1674),  the  name 
was   changed  to  Altona.     It  is   built  on 
ground  gradually  rising  to  the  height  of 
112    feet   above   tidewater,  and   is   reg- 
ularly laid  out,  with  broad  streets  cross- 
ing each  other  at  right  angles.     In  1777 
it  was  occupied  by  the  British.     In  1809 
it    was    chartered    as    the   "Borough    of 
Wilmington,"  and  in   1832  it  was  incor- 
porated.    Since  1860,  both  its  business 
and  population  have  much  increased:  at 
that  time  it  contained  about  16,000  in- 
haliitants,  and  now  the  population  num- 
bers 25,000.     The   Old  Swedes  Church, 
the  corner-stone  of  which  was  laid  May 
28,  1698,  is  worthy  a  visit.     The  church- 
yard surrounding  it  contains  some  (juaint 
•epitaphs.     On  the  Brandywine  River  are 
some  of  the   finest  flouring-mills  in  the 
United  States,  to  which  vessels  can  vonie 
drawing  eight  feet  of  water.     It  contains 
also  ship  and  steamboat  yards,  a  founderv 
lor  the  manufacture  oi"  patent  car-wheels 
which  are  used  all  over  the  country  and 
a  number  of  large  mamifacturing  estab- 
lishnjcnts    of    vaiious    kinds.     3upon(^s 


SlA  .:.  ,^.] 


DELAWARE. 


[Elkton. 


PImI 


t';iinou3  Powder  Mills  are  in  the  vicinity. 

it  is  the  seat  of  a  CatJwUc  College  {St. 

^faru's\  and  is  generally  distinguished 

foi-  ',:■   academies   and  boardin2;-schools. 

It  1      'onnccted  with  New  Castle,  Dover, 

MMfuKl,  Seaford,  Salisbury,  and  Princess 

Ami  \    by   the   Delaware    Railway   line, 

Ii    intersects   the   Philadelphia    and 

1  li  ore  line  at  this  point.     (See  Routk 

I'asscngers  by  evening  trains   from 

I'tiilphia   to    Baltimore,  desirous  to 

'  '.Vllmiiigton,  can   procure  "lie-over 

:  't-  "  by  applying  to  the  conductor. 

!'   i;-  miles  southwest  of  Wilmington 

lies  the  village  oi  Newport  (32  miles),  the 

poi'it   of  departure  for  the  Brandy  wine 

i I  .3,  three   miles    distant.     Newport 

•  I    nsiderable  claim  to  antiquity,  hav- 

'<   .en  founded  by  Swedes  and  Finns 

'    9. 

iton  (34  miles)  is  a  pleasant  little 
t,:  ,  lying  a  short  distance  north  of 
■  ilroad.  This  is  the  highest  point 
ni  the  Chesapeake  and  Delaware 
Bay.-,  'he  rivers  and  streams  (White  Clay 
aud  lied  Clay  Creeks)  on  either  side  of 
it  flowing  respectively  into  them.  On 
Red  t  lay  Creek  the  American  army  was 
encamped,  September  8,  I'ZTY. 

Rix  miles  beyond  Stanton  is  Neioark 
(4(i  II. lies),  the  scat  of  Dclavmre  College^ 
Av\■''^''Z;  Academy^  and  other  educational 
in.'^  i  tions.  This  locality  was  the  scene 
of  V  le  fighting  between  the  British  and 
An  I  can  forces,  August,  IT'ZV.  Two 
mil . -  farther,  and  four  fiom  Elkton 
Btati  m,  the  train  crosses  Mason  and 
Dix'  's  line.  This  line,  established  in 
was  long  the  boundary  between 
(rthern  and  Southern  States. 
-Titer,  recording  its  history  before 
.r  of  1861-65,  thus  speaks  of  this 


Sjn 
lay 
hrs 


viU 
the 

bee 


1V( 
th( 


the 

fani 
poi'  ' 
t-ta 
mV 
^hat 
!v'h«'  \ 
;ra  i 
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ion  t 

)Ct. 

lug 
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siiri 
adi    ; 


3   line:  "The   mere   fact,    that   it 

out  the   boundary   between   two 

of  the  Confederacy,  w^ould  be  in- 

mt  to  elevate  it  to  a  dignity  beyond 

f  similar  conventional  barriers  else- 

but  it  has  assumed  a  far  higher 

of    importance    in    the    political 

from  having  furnished,  in  a  por- 

?  its  length,  a  line  of  demarcation 

m  slaveholding  and  non-slavehold- 

■rritory.      This    circumstance    has 

buried  in  oblivion  its  original  and 

character  as  a  boundary  between 

ing  Commonwealths,  and  has  given 


it,  in  the  minds  of  men,  certain  hypothet- 
ical extensions  wdiich  have  clianged  its 
reputed  'place  of  beginning,'  and  its 
terminus,  from  time  to  time,  until  it  has 
come  to  be  regarded  by  many  as  extend- 
ing from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific.  It 
now  figures  in  i^merican  political  discus- 
sions, m  this  ideal  character,  and  involves 
itself  with  some  of  the  most  difficult  and 
most  dangerous  questions  which  agitate 
the  public  mind."  The  original  line  was 
327  miles  long,  and  was  designated  by 
stone  pillars,  four  feet  long,  get  one  mile 
apai't.  These  pillars  were  engraved  in 
England,  with  the  arms  of  the  Calvert 
and  Pcnn  families.  Some  Of  them  are 
still  standing,  though  scarcely  recogni- 
zable. While,  with  the  extinction  of 
slavery  in  the  LTnited  States,  this  line  has 
lost  much  of  its  significance,  the  intercit 
attaching  to  it  has  largely  increased. 
Two  large  stones,  known  as  the  langeni 
Point,  standing  in  an  open  field  within  a 
hundred  yards  of  the  railroad,  mark  the 
commencement  oi  the  line. 

EllitOM.  (46  miles),  the  county  seat 
of  Cecil  County,  is  at  the  head  of  naviga- 
tion on  the  Elk  River,  whence  its  name 
"  Head  of  Elk,"  changed  to  Elkton  in 
1787.  The  first  settlement  was  made  in 
1694  by  Swedish  fishermen  from  Fort 
Cassimer  (New  Castle).  Previous  to  1787 
courts  were  held  at  "  Court-House  Point," 
10  miles  below,  on  the  river.  The  Court- 
Jloiise,  built  in  1791,  is  an  interesting 
edifice.  Near  this  place  the  British  army, 
under  Sir  William  Howe,  landed  in  1777, 
and  marched  to  Philadelphia.  Formerly 
stages  left  Elkton  daily  for  the  Eastern 
Shore  of  Maryland.  The  route  now  is 
from  Wilmington  by  the  Peninsular  or 
Delaivare  Railway  (see  Route  II.) 
Northeast  Railway  Station  (25  miles) 
has  an  extensive  iron  furnace,  etc. 

Clisii'lestOAVBi  (55  miles),  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Northeast  River,  is  a 
place  with  some  claims  to  antiquity,  hav- 
ing been  settled  in  1742.  This  and  the 
neighboring  village  of  Northeast  were 
burned  bv  the  British  under  Admiral 
Cockbun/(1813).  The  Brick  Meeting- 
house, ten  miles  from  Northeast,  v,^a3 
built  by  William  Penn  for  the  Society  of 
Friends.  Gilpin's  Pock,  at  the  crossing 
of  the  river,  is  a  favorite  picnic  place. 

Three  miles  from  Charlestown  the  train 

135 


f 


Uayre  ue  Grace.] 


DELAWARE. 


[New  Castle. 


crosses  the  Principio  Creek,  explored  by 
the  renowned  Captain  John  Smith  in  1608, 
near  the  Principio  Iron  Furnace,  and  soon 
after  reaches  Perryville,  formerly  Cecil. 
Here  the  entire  train  is  "■ferriaV'  across 
the  Susquehanna  River,  one  mile  in 
width  to  Havre  de  Grace. 

Bliavre  die  CJrsi^c  (C2  miles  from 
Philadelphia,  150  from  Xew  York). 
This  town,  laid  out  in  I'ZTG,  was  also 
burnt  by  the  British  in  the  War  of  1812. 
It  is  the  southern  terminus  of  the  Tide- 
water Canal,  famous  for  its  scenery.  In 
crossing,  a  iBue  view  is  had  of  the  river, 
Chesapeake  Bay,  and  town  of  Port  De- 
posit, on  the  east  bank  of  the  Susque- 
hanna, to  the  mouth.  Steamboat  to  Port 
Deposit.  The  bridge,  so  long  in  process  of 
construction,  was  finished  in  January, 
1887 ;  the  cost  exceeded  §1,250,000.  From 
Havre  de  Grace  westward,  the  road  lies 
through  Maryland,  37  miles,  to  the  city  of 
Baltimore.  The  most  noteworthy  objects 
en  route  thither  are  the  Spcsutla  Churchy 
at  Perrymansville  (71  miles),  built  (1851) 
on  the  site  of  the  original  wooden  buildmg, 
erected  in  1G70,  and  tlic  bridges  over  the 
Bush  and  Gunpowder  Rivers.  The  former 
is  3,lo8  feet  and  the  latter  5,250  feet  long. 
These  bridges  were  partially  destroyed  by 
a  mob  from  Baltimore,  May,  18G1,  and 
again  in  18u4.  MaxwelVs  l^o'int,  three 
miles  below  the  Gunpowder  Bridge,  is  one 
of  the  finest  points  for  gunning  on  the 
bay.  There  is  accommodation  for  vi.-itors. 
Tliis  locality  abounds  witli  wild-fowl,  and 
id  regarded  as  the  choice  spot  of  the 
*'  Chesapeake  ducking-grounds."  (See 
Chesapeake  Bay.)  The  Susquehanna 
River  was  discovered  by  Captain  John 
Smith,  in  1  (108,  at  which  time  the  adja- 
cent country  was  iidiabitcd  by  a  warlike 
tribe  of  Indians  called  the  Sasquetaha- 
naghs. 

"The  council-firc  is  seen  no  more, 

Long  since  upon  tlie  liills  t;one  out; 
The  Hh;i(lo\v  war-dance  too  is  oVt, 
And  busbod  tiu;  bappy  bero's  shout. 

"  Their  Ramc  is  fconc,  their  hunlinf:-;:roiin(l 
Transformed  to  lieids  of  Koldon  p-ain  ; 
No  more  .siiall  Indian  f()otste]>s  lionnd, 
O'er  scones  their  lathers  Joved,  again." 

V}ta^e\%    S!em)ner\H    Ihin,    and    JJavk 
Jiiver  /Stalioris  (the  latter  nine  miles  from 
Baltimore)  are  quickly  reached  and  pass- 
IDG 


cd,  and  soon  the  towering  steeples  of  the 
"  Monumental  City  "  rise  to  view.  The 
residence  of  the  late  General  Stansbury, 
whose  name  is  closely  connected  with  the 
defence  of  Baltimore  (1814),  stands  near 
the  line,  a  little  east  of  Back  River.  In 
entering  Baltimore,  the  stanger  will  ob- 
tain a  view  of  the  Patapsco  River,  Fort 
McIIenry,  and  other  objects  described  in 
our  chapter  on  Baltimore  and  Yichiity. 
(For  continuation  of  this  route  southward 
to  Washington  and  Richmond,  etc.,  see 
chapters  on  Maryland  and  District  of 
Columbia.) 


nOUTB  II. 

PBlLADELPniA   TO  THE  EASTEEIT 

i>noRE. 

(  Via  Delaware  Eailway.) 

A  PLEASANT  detour  may  be  made  by 
leaving  the  main  line  {:-ia  Fh'dadclphla^ 
Wilmington^  and  JBaltunore  JiaUivai/)  at 
Wilmington,  and  take  the  Delaware  (Pen- 
insular) Railway  to  the  Eastern  Shore  of 
Maryland. 

Stations. — Wilmington ;  New  Castle,  6 
miles;  St.  George's,  IG;  Middleton,  25; 
Townsend,  29  ;  Smyrna,  37  ;  Dover,  48  ; 
Camden,  51;  Canterbury,  5G ;  Harring- 
ton, G4  ;  Milford,  73  ;  Farmington,  68  ; 
Bridgeville,  7G  ;  Seaford,  84 ;  Laurel,  90  ; 
Dclmar,  97;  Salisbury,  103;  Eden— Prin- 
cess Anne,  108 ;  Somers's  Cove  (Cris- 
ficld),  137:  165  from  Philadelphia. 

T^e-^v  Casllc,  on  the  Delaware 
River,  is  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  Neio 
Castle  and  Frenchtown  Railway.  It  con- 
tains a  Court-House^  Public  Library,  and 
several  churches.  Boats  to  and  from 
Philadelphia  and  Cape  May  call  here. 
The  JJullcr  House  has  good  accommoda- 
tion for  travellers. 

B>oyea*  (48  miles),  the  capital  of  the 
State,  is  a  handsome  town,  situated  on 
Jones's  Creek,  about  five  miles  west  of  the 
Delaware  Bay.  The  State  House  is  an 
imposing  edifice,  with  an  open  lawn  iu 
front,  Dover  contains  two  good  hotels, 
and  several  elegant  private  residences. 

MiJibr*!  (73  miles),  25  miles  south 
of  Dover,  is  a  place  of  considerable  trade. 
The  Mispillion  Creek,  which  is  navigable 
for  schooners  to  this  point,  divides  the 


Seaford.] 


DELAWARE. 


[Port  Pknn. 


town  into  North  and  South  Milford.  Pop- 
ulation, 2,000. 

Seaiba'd.  (84  miles),  on  the  Nanti- 
coke  liivcr,  is  a  place  of  active  trade. 
The  Nantiooke  is  naviiiable  for  steam- 
boats  of  liirht  drauirht  to  Seaford. 

SalisfeMi'y,  Maryland  (103  miles), 
the  former  terminus  of  the  Delaware  Ixail- 
ivau,  is  on  the  Wicomico  River,  95  miles 
southeast  of  Annapolis.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  flourishing  points  on  the  Eastern 
Shore.      The  route  is  now  complete  to 


Somers^s  Cove  (Crisfield),  29  miles  beyond 
Princess  Anne.  Steamers  connect  the 
Cove  with  New  York  and  Norfolk.  This 
route  affords  speedy  transit  between  Phil- 
adelphia and  the  whole  Eastern  Shore  of 
Maryland.  (See  Maryland,  for  Chesa- 
peake Bay.) 

S®oi't  l^ciiii,  on  Delaware  Bay,  30 
miles  north  of  Dover,  is  a  watering-place 
of  much  resort.  There  is  good  bathing, 
gunning,  and  fishing  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
I'ier  House. 

137 


4 


M\^     w«.  v/L«>C     JLJ  L  S^ 


138 


Ill  VERS.] 


TENNSYLVANIA. 


[PlIILADELrillA. 


waters  which  wash  the  shore  of  the  north- 
west corner  of  the  State.  For  this  want, 
however,  the  charms  of  her  many  pictu- 
resque rivers  fully  compensate,  tier  val- 
leys are  even  more  inviting  and  beautiful 
than  her  m^ountains.  The  Delaware,  the 
Lehigh,  the  "Wyoming,  the  Schuylkill, 
and  the  Lackawanna,  abound  in  scenic  at- 
tractions. 

RIVERS. 

ThtO  Susquehanna^  the  largest  river  of 
Pennsylvania,  and  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful in  America,  crosses  the  entire 
breadth  of  the  State,  flowing  400  miles 
in  many  a  winding  bout,  through  moun- 
tain gorges,  rocky  clifls,  and  broad,  cul- 
tivated    meadows.     (See    Susquehanna 

lllVER.) 

Tiie  Juniata  is  the  chief  affluent  of  the 
Susquehanna.  It  enters  that  river  from 
the  acclivities  of  the  Alleghanies  in  she 
west,  through  a  mountain  and  valley 
country  of  great  natural  attraction.  (Sec 
Juniata  Kiver.) 

The  Delaware  flows  300  miles  from  its 
sources  in  the  Kaatskill  Mountains  to  the 
Delav/are  Bay,  forming  the  boundary  be- 
tween Pennsylvania  and  New  Jersey,  and 
afterward  between  New  Jersey  and  Dela- 
ware. It  is  one  of  the  chief  features  of 
the  varied  scenery  of  the  New  York  and 
Erie  Railway^  which  follows  its  banks 
for  90  miles.  (See  N.  Y.  and  E.  R.  11.) 
Lower  dov/n,  its  passage  through  the 
mountains  forms  that  great  natural  won- 
der of  the  State,  the  Delatvare  Wa/cr 
Gap.  (See  Delaware  Water  Gap.)  The 
navigation  of  the  Delaware  is  interrupted 
at  TrentOTi,  New  Jersey,  by  falls  and 
rapids.  Philadelphia  is  on  this  river, 
about  40  miles  above  its  entrance  into 
Delaware  Bay.  The  river  was  named  in 
honor  of  Lord  De  La  Ware,  who  visited 
the  bay  in  1610.  The  shores  of  the  Dela- 
ware and  its  smaller  tributaries  are  fine 
gunning-grounds  in  the  autumn  months. 
Reed  birds  and  Rail  are  found  in  great 
abundance.  (See  Chester.) 

The  Lehigh  is  a  rapid  and  most  pictu- 
resque stream.  Its  course  is  from  the 
mountain  coal  districts,  through  the 
famous  passage  of  the  Lehigh  Water 
Gap,  below  Mauch  Chunk,  to  the  Dela- 
-"-''■e  at  Easton.     Its  length  is  about  90 


The  Schuj/lHll  flows  120  miles  from  the 
coal  regions  north,  and  enters  the  Di^la- 
ware  five  miles  below  Philadelphia.  We 
shall  review  it  as  we  call  at  the  towns 
and  places  of  interest  upon  its  hanks. 

Tlie  Allegltany  and  the  Monongahela 
Rivers — one  300  and  the  other  200  miles 
in  length — unite  at  Pittsburg  and  form  the 
Ohio.  The  Youghiogheny  is  a  tributary 
of  the  Monongahela. 

The  Lackawanna  is  another  mountain 
stream,  which  takes  its  rise  in  the  north- 
east part  of  the  State,  and  falls  into  the 
north  branch  of  the  Susquehanna  River, 
10  miles  above  Wilkesbarre.  The  val- 
ley of  the  Lackav/anna  is  noted  for  its 
rich  coal  mines. 

PHIL  ADEL  PHI  A. 

Hotels  :  The  hotels  of  Philadelphia, 
thou2;h  neither  so  numerous  nor  ex- 
teneive  as  those  of  New  York,  are  never- 
theless conspicuous  for  the  com.fort  of 
their  internal  arrangements  and  the 
excellence  of  their  cuisine.  Among  the 
most  desirable  are  the  following:  the 
Continental^  on  Chestnut  and  Ninth 
Streets,  opened  in  18G0,  has  a  repu- 
tation second  to  no  hotel  in  the  United 
States.  Under  the  proprietorship  of 
Messrs.  J.  E.  Kingsley  &  Co.,  its  reputa- 
tion bids  fair  to  be  sustained.  This  fine 
establishment  is  fitted  with  a  passenger 
elevator,  and  has  all  the  appointments  of 
a  first-class  hotel.  The  Chestnut  Street, 
front,  200  feet  long,  is  of  Pietou  sand- 
stone, six  stories  high,  and  is  much  ad- 
mired. The  La  Pierre,  at  the  intersec- 
tion of  Chestnut  and  Broad  Streets,  has 
been  recently  refurnished  throughout,  and 
is  now  one  of  the  most  elegant  houses  in 
the  country.  It  is  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
borhood of  the  Union  League  Club-rooms, 
the  Opera-IIouse,  and  the  theatres,  and 
has  accommodation  for  upward  of  300 
guests.  Messrs.  Baker  &  Farley  are 
the  lessees.  The  Girard  House^  on  Chest- 
nut Street,  opposite  the  Continental,  is  a 
commodious  and  well-kept  house.  The 
Merchants''  Hoicl^  on  Fourth  Street,  and 
the  American^  on  Chestnut,  near  Fifth 
Avenue,  are  popular  houses.  Charges 
at  the  Continental  and  La  Pierre,  $4.50, 
at  the  Girard  $4  per  day. 

*  For  routes  to  New  York,  see  "  New  Jee- 
6ET ;  "  for  routes  to  Baltimore,  see  "  Dela- 
ware." 

\  139 


PniLADKLrniA.] 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


[PniLADEI      IIA. 


Furnished  apartments  in  private 
houses  are  readily  obtained  by  those 
desiring  them.  The  best  locations  are 
to  be  tbund  in  Chestnut  Street  above 
Twelfth  Street,  in  Areli  Street,  and  in 
and  around  Franklhi,  Peau,  and  Logan 
Squares.  Furnished  apartments,  with 
goo  1  board,  can  be  had  at  about  one- 
hilf  t'le  hotel  rates. 

Restaurants. — Of  late,  the  restaurant 
lias  become  a  feature  of  Philadelphia 
life,  though  in  so  essentially  a  domestic 
and  home  community  it  will  be  long  be- 
fore it  becomes  fashionable.  The  Union 
League  of  Philadelphia^  on  Broad  Street, 
corner  of  Sansom,  offers  the  greatest  at- 
tractions to  gentlemen,  visiting  or  mak- 
ing a  stay  in  the  city.  Files  of  the  lead- 
ing European  and  American  magazines 
and  journals  are  to  be  found  here.  At- 
tached to  it  is  the  best  club-room  and 
refectory  in  Philadelphia.  A  member's 
introduction  and  ticket  will  secure  the 
visitor  the  privileges  of  the  club  for  one 
month.* 

The  British  Consul  ate  iw  Pliilalelphia 
is  at  619  Walnut  Street.  Charles  E.  K. 
Kortright,  consul. 

Philadelphia,  the  largest  city  in  the 
United  States,  and  in  point  of  population 
and  commerce  second  only  to  New  York, 
lies  between  the  Delaware  and  Schuylkill 
Ilivers,  five  miles  above  their  junction, 
and  nearly  100  miles,  by  the  Delaware 
Bay  and  River,  from  the  Atlantic.  Its 
precise  latitude  is  39'  57'  north,  and 
longitude  To'-^  10'  west,  being  136  miles 
northeast  of  AYashington  City,  and  87 
miles  southwest  of  New  York.  The 
site  of  the  city  is  so  low  and  level,  tliat 
it  does  not  make  a  very  impressive  ap- 
pearance from  any  aj)proaeh.  But  the 
elegance,  symmetry,  and  neatness  of 
its  streets,  the  high  cultivation  and  the 
picturesque  character  of  the  higher  sub- 
urban land  to  the  northward,  fully  com- 
pensate for  this  want.  By  a  recent  Act 
of  the  Legislature,  the  limits  of  the  city 
have  been  made  coextensive  with  those 
of  the  county  of  Philadelphia,  wliich  em- 
brace an  area  of  120  square  miles.  The 
most  thronged  portion  of  the  city  is  near 
the  apex  of  an  anglu  formed  by  the  ap- 

*  This  flno  buiMinji  was  almost  wholly  dc- 
Btroyed  by  tire,  September  G,  1S66.  It  is  now 
bciug  rebuilt. 

140 


proach  of  the  two  rivers,  between  '  ich 
it  is  built.  Streets  extend  from  n^  r  to 
river,  and  are  crossed  by  other  stre^  '  at 
right  angles.  This  portion  of  th(  'ty 
covers  an  area  of  nearly  nine  6  ;  ire 
miles,  and  embraces  Chestnut  and  1!  et 
Streets,  East  and  Ninth,  Third  (the  ' '.  ill 
Street  of  Philadelphia),  and  other  Ic  ii  \g 
thoroughfares  and  business  marts  (<i  tiie 
city  proper.  Within  this  area  are  lo- 
cated the  Exchange,  State  House,  !''»  t- 
Office,  Custom-llouse,  the  large  baiiui  ;g 
houses,  insurance  and  newspaper  c:!i>:-L3, 
warehouses,  wholesale  stores,  etc.  The 
entire  length  of  the  city  north  and  -"I'Ji 
is  20  miles,  and  from  east  to  v.-i  S 
miles,  and  with  its  rapid  growth  west  of 
the  Schuylkill  it  will  soon  exceed  even 
these  magnificent  dimensions. 

The  city,  as  originally  incorporated 
(1701),  was  bounded  by  the  rivers  I''  • 
aware  and  Sehuylkill,  Vine  and  (.e  lar 
Streets;  but  in  185-i  the  adjoining  dis- 
tricts of  Spring  Garden,  Penn,  Noi  thera 
Liberties,  Kensington,  and  Uichmojvl,  on 
the  north,  West  Philadelphia,  etc  ,  on  the 
west,  and  Southwark,  iloyamensing.  and 
Passyunk  on  the  south,  were  consol- 
idated with  the  city,  into  one  mur  il 
government.  Within  this  area  ar-  ,■  .0 
miles  of  paved  streets,  and  upwaid  of 
115,000  buildings,  of  which  number 
23,000  have  been  erected  since  185  ">. 

The  history  of  Philadelphia,  thoujh  of 
more  recent  date  than  that  of  man)  other 
American  cities,  is  both  intercstin 
eventful.  To  William  Penn  is  ;  >--.t 
universally  credited  the  first  scttL.i.  it 
and  foundation  of  the  city  (1682),  though 
local  record  is  by  no  means  clear  0!i  tliat 
point.  In  the  year  1681  the  firs!  f  t- 
tlers  arrived  from  London,  in  the  ^liip 
"  Sarah  and  John,"  Captain  Smith.  ^ .  il- 
lam  Penn,  accompanied  by  a  colony  of 
English  Friends  or  Quakers,  in  '  'V 
planned  and  settled  Pliiladelphia  :  i 

regular  purchase  from  the  Indians,  r, ;  i  i  i 
by  treaty  in  due  form.  However  th 
be,  certain  it  is  that  the  sobriquet  < 
"  City  of  Brotherly  Love,"  which  ii 
bears,  was  given  to  it  by  Penn 
sell".  At  the  time  of  Penn's  ai 
the  site  of  the  city  was  owned  anil  oc- 
cupied principally  by  Swedes,  vhose 
claims  were  subsequently  disposed     i'  to 


now 
!ilm- 
i:al. 


I'enn, 


in   exchange 


for    lands    or    the 


■rn,.>.  'XrniA.] 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


[PniLADELPIIIA. 


Schmikill,  near  what  was  then  called 
"  Swedes'  Ford."  The  original  plan  of 
the  city  was  made  by  Thomas  llohnes, 
and  surveyed  in  1G83.  The  first  house 
recorded  to  have  been  erected  was  that 
built  by  '  George  Guest,  and  known  as 
the  ''  Blue  Anchor"  Tavern.  This  stood 
rear  the  mouth  of  Dock  Creek  (north- 
west corner  Dock  and  Front  Streets), 
then  known  as  "  Sandy  Beach,"  The 
first  dally  newspaper  published  in  the 
country  was  published  here.  It  was 
calk'd  ''  Poulson's  Daily  Advertiser."  It 
'  a,^  established  by  Mr.  Dunlop  in  I'?'?!, 

A  first  issued  as  a  daily  in  1784.  In 
1840  it  was  merged  in  the  North  Ameri- 
can. The  Weeldi/  Mercunj  was  Crst  is- 
guc'l  T>eccinbcr  22,  ITIO.  No  striking 
€'■  mark  the  history  of  Philadelphia 

do  .  1 3  the  days  of  the  Revolution,  and 
its  I  iv..  in  that  great  drama  was  more 
pe.":  lul  than  warlike.  The  first  Con- 
grorS  assembled  here,  as  did  also  sub- 
se.  t  Congresses,  during  the  contin- 
ua.i  of  the  Avar.  The  Declaration  of 
Ini  i'f'vndence  was  signed  and  issued  here, 
Jui/  1,  I'Z'ZG.  The  Convention  which 
for'  I  !  the  Constitution  of  the  Republic 
ass-  .'  )led  here,  May,  1787.  Here  re- 
sid"  1  the  first  President  of  the  United 
StaLc-,  and  here,  too,  Congress  continued 
to  '  ^'  !'t  until  about  1797.  The  city  was 
in  |.  --session  of  the  British  troops  from 
SciMunber,  1777,  to  June  11,  1778,  a  re- 
sr/  (  ■  the  unfortunate  battles  of  Brandy- 
w''       nd  Germantown. 

.i'i:  'adelphia,  though  a  healthy  city, 
has  been  frequently  visited  by  pesti- 
lei:^  In  1793  the  yellow  fever  broke 
ou  nd  carried  off  upvrard  of  4,000 
po'  ■  ,  or  one-tenth  of  its  entire  popu- 
lar -.  In  1822  the  Asiatic  cholera 
vi-iv  i  the  city.  In  1849  and  again  in 
3  85t  it  was  prevalent  and  very  fatal. 
J;i  !  S44  riots  broke  out  between  the 
P:  '  stant  and  Catholic  population  in 
tb"  u'thern  and  southern  suburbs.  The 
niii,  ry  were  called  out  and  quiet  re- 
,  but  not  until  several  Catholic 
i)cs  had  been  destroyed,  and  many 
\\r  ost.  Market  Street  divides  the  city 
ini  vo  divisions,  called  North  and  South  : 
ah  lat  part  of  the  city  toward  Arch 
&!!•'  t,  from  Market,  is  called  North; 
aut!  11  toward  Chestnut  Street,  from  Mar- 
ket   s  called  South;  the  numbers  rumiing 


100  to  a  block  or  square,  make  it  com- 
paratively easy  to  find  a  residence  or  build- 
ing in  almost  any  part  of  the  city.  All  that 
part  of  the  city  from  the  Delaware  to  the 
Schuylkill  is  called  Philadelphia ;  and 
that  on  the  upper  or  west  side  of  the 
Schuylkill,  West  Philadelphia. 

Population. — The  census  returns  made 
for  the  several  decades  will  best  illustrate 
the  growth  of  the  city  in  population  and 
trade.  In  1684,  it  contained  2,500  in- 
habitants ;  in  1777,  21,1G7;  in  1790, 
42,520;  in  1800,70,287;  in  1810,  96,- 
287  ;  in  1820,  119,325  ;  in  1830,  167,325  ; 
in  1840,  258,037;  in  1850,  408,762;  in 
1860,  565,529.  The  population  is  now 
(1866)  estimated  in  round  numbers  at 
700,000.  Its  annual  increase  is  estimated 
at  16,000  to  18,000. 

General  Aspect. — The  approach  to 
Philadelphia  by  the  most  frequented 
route,  viz.,  from  New  York  by  rail,  via 
Camden,  New  Jersey,  is  not  apt  to  give 
the  visitor  a  very  favorable  impression  of 
its  extent  and  importance.  The  site  of 
the  city,  as  before  remarked,  is  fiat.  The 
view  best  calculated  to  impress  the  stran- 
ger is  that  which  meets  him  on  approach- 
ing it  from  the  northwest,  particularly 
from  the  summit  of  the  inclined  plane  on 
the  Old  Columbia  Railroad.  (See  New 
Jersey,  for  Routes  to  PniLADE^rniA.). 

Feuries. — There  are  six  ferry  fines 
running  to  and  from  Philadelphia,  as  fol- 
lows, viz. : 

ires;;  Jersey. — Market  Street,  Philadel- 
phia, to  Market  Street,  Camden ;  fare,  five 
cents. 

Camden  and  ndladelpMa. — Market 
Street,  Philadelphia,  to  Federal  Street, 
Camden  ;  fare,  five  cents. 

Camden. — South  Street,  Philadelphia, 
to  Kaign's  Point,  Camden  ;  fare,  five  cents. 

Gloucester. — South  Street,  Philadel- 
phia, to  Gloucester,  N.  J. ;  fare,  five  cents. 

RedBanl:-4^o\\i\\  Street,  Phihidelphla, 
to  Red  Bank,  N.  J. ;   fare,  ten  cents. 

Cooper'' s  Point. — Vine  Street,  Philadel- 
phia, to  Cooper's  Point ;  fare,  five 
cents. 

Shalcamoxon. — Fare,  five  cents. 

Besides  these  ferries,  numerous  steam- 
ers i)ly  on  the  Delaware,  affording  easy  and 
pleasant  communication  during  the  sum- 
mer between  Philadelphia  and  Arlington, 


Chester,   Delunco, 


Trenton,   Burlington, 
141 


PniLADELPniA.] 


PENNSYLYAXIA. 


[Philadelphia.'- 


Bristol,  Xewcastlo,  Tacony,    Bridgeport, 
etc. 

Street  Railways. — Philadelphia  has 
the  most  complete  system  of  city  pas- 
senger railways  on  tb.e  continent.  The 
lines  ai'e  22  in  number.  By  the  use  of 
transfer  or  "  exchange "  tickets  almost 
any  point  vrithiu  the  city  limits  can  be 
reached  by  rail  at  a  uniform  fare  of  seven 
cents.  The  Merchants'  Exchange  is  the 
principal  car  station. 

Hacks,  Fares,  etc. — (Regulated  by 
law.)  One  passenger,  with  trunk,  valise, 
carpet-bag,  or  box,  distance  not  exceed- 
ing one  miles,  50  cents.  Distance  over  a 
mile,  and  not  exceeding  two  miles,  '75 
cents.  Each  additional  passenger,  25 
cents. 

If  the  distance  be  over  two  miles,  each 
additional  mile,  or  part  of  a  mile,  25 
cents,  in  addition  to  the  sum  of  75  cents 
for  the  first  two  miles,  and  for  every  ad- 
ditional passenger,  25  cents.  If  engaged 
by  the  hour,  witli  the  privilege  of  going 
from  place  to  place,  and  stopping  as  often 
as  may  be  requked,  .f^l  per  hour.  In  case 
of  dispute,  call  a  policeman,  or  apply  at 
the  mayor's  office. 

DiSTAN'CE,  Average  ten  Squares  to  a 
Mile. — From  Chestnut  Street,  south,  to 
Prime,  one  mile. 

From  Chestnut  Street,  north,  to  Brown, 
one  mile. 

From  Delaware  River  to  Twelfth  Street, 
one  mile. 

From  Delaware  River  to  Schuylkill 
River,  tv.o  miles. 

From  Camden  and  Amboy  Depot  to 
Trenton  (Kensington)  Depot,  two  miles. 

From  Camden  and  Amboy  Depot  to 
Baltimore  Depot,  two  miles. 

Vvnuc  Squakk,:. —  Washiuf/ton  Square, 
a  little  southwest  of  the  State  House,  is 
liiiely  ornamented  with  trees  and  grav- 
ell(;d  walks,  is  surrounded  by  a  handsome 
iron  railing  with  four  principal  entrances, 
and  is  kept  in  excellent  order.  During 
the  War  of  Independence  upward  of 
2,000  American  soldiers  Avere  Imricd  in 
this  spot,  whifli  went  bv  the  name  of  the 
"  i'ottcr's  Field."  No '  traces  of  their 
graves  can  now  be  s(!en.  It  was  made  a 
j)ublic  s(iu:ire  and  i)romcnade  in  1815. 

Imhpctulence  Square,  in  the  rear  of  the 
State  House,  was  purchased  by  the  Pro- 
vincial Assembly  in  1782  for  the  erection 
142 


of  State  buildings,  etc.  It  is  enclosed  by 
a  solid  brick  wall,  rising  three  or  four  feet 
above  the  adjacent  streets,  surmounted  by 
an  iron  railing.  The  entire  area  is  laid, 
otf  in  walks  and  grass-plots,  shaded  with 
majestic  trees.  It  was  within  this  en- 
closure that  the  Declaration  of  Indepen- 
dence v/as  first  publicly  read,  July  4, 
1*776,  and  at  the  present  day  it  is  fre- 
quently used  as  a  place  of  meeting  for 
political  and  other  purposes.  The  build- 
ings facing  this  square  on  Walnut  Street 
occupy  the  site  of  the  "  Old  Prison,"  the 
"  British  Provost "  of  the  Revolution.  A 
new  Court-House  is  in  course  of  erection 
on  the  northwest  corner  of  the  square. 

Fraiildhi  Square,  between  Race  and 
Vine,  and  Sixth  and  Franklin  Streets,  is 
an  attractive  promenade,  with  a  fountain 
in  its  centre,  surrounded  by  a  marble 
basin ;  it  is  embellished  with  a  great  va- 
riety of  trees. 

Fenn  Square,  at  the  intersection  of 
Broad  and  Market  Streets,  is  now  divided 
into  four  parts  by  Market  and  Broad 
Streets  being  cut  through  it.  It  was 
formerly  the  site  of  the  old  water-works. 

Lor/an  Square,  the  largest  in  the  city, 
is  on  Eighteenth  Street,  between  Race 
and  Vine  Streets.  The  Sanitary  Fair 
was  held  here,  June,  18C4. 

Fiflcnhouse  Square  is  between  Eigh- 
teenth and  Nineteenth  Streets  and  Wal- 
nut and  Locust  Streets 

Bcvond  tlic  Fairmount  Water  Works, 
in  the  northern  part  of  the  city,  on  Lemon 
Hill,  once  the  residence  of  Robert  Morris, 
of  Rcvolutionarv  memorv,  another  beau- 
tiful  park  has  recently  been  laid  out.  It 
is  known  as  J/orriv  Square,  and  is  bound- 
ed by  Susquehanna,  Hancock,  and  How- 
ard Streets. 

Jeffcrscn  Square  is  embraced  within 
Third  and  Fourth,  Washington  Avenue 
and  Federal  Streets. 

Jlaii/bic/  Fark,  on  the  York  Road,  con- 
tains 43  acres,  and  a  fine  avenue  of  tulip 
poplars. 

Fairmouut  or  Cifii Fark  extends  alon2r 
the  entire  eastern  front  of  the  Schuylkill 
River  irom  the  suspension  bridge  to  a 
point  north  of  the  Cirard  Avenue  bridge. 
Itcnibi-aces  the  Fairmount  Water-works, 
i'ormeily  "Pratt's  (Jardcn."  "Sedgley 
Park,"  and  the  Schuylkill  Water-works. 
The  scenery  in  the  neighborhood  is  ex- 


Fl^iLADELPHIA.] 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


[PlIlLADELPniA. 


coed  mgly  picturesque,  and  its  proximity  to 
ihc"  )l.d  homesteads  of  "  Solitude,"  "  Eg- 
■:1'-'S  ield,"  '' Swectbriei',"  and  Laiisdowne 
Man  )r  (Park),  renders  it  liistorieally  inter- 
esting. 

"sitors   to  Pliiladelphia  in  the  winter 
':     find  both  pleasure   and  profit  in  a 

.     to  one   or   other  of  the   numerous 

;i ting-parks.     We  append  the  list,  for 
onvenience  of  those  partial  to  this 
.'iise — 

- 1 :  A  T I N  G  -  P  A  R  K  s. —  Union  Park. — 
(  u  th  and  Diamond  Streets. 

^'  dladelphla.  Fark. — Thirty-first  and 
^        lut  Streets. 

-.'  liional  Park. — Twenty-first  Street 
;i        Columbia  Avenue. 

./  ijstone  Park. — Third  and  Morris 
Slivi  ts. 

shnell  Park. — Broad   Street,  above 
C(      abia  Avenue. 

'.  stwick  Park. — Gray's  Ferry  Road. 
-loe  Baktram's  Garden.) 

C'  niral  Park. — Fifteenth  and  Wallace 
Strvi'CtS. 

'A'est  Philadcifphia  Base  Ball  and  Ska- 
tirrj  Park. — Forty-first  Street,  north  of 
L;  '.^  ister  Avenue. 

J  hdadelphia  has  few  monuments  wor- 
thy -pccial  observation.  That  erected 
to  ;  '  rpetuate  Pemi's  Treaty  %mth  the  In- 
di"'.s  is  the  most  noteworthy.  It  stands 
on  " 

V 

est!!':,  object  in  Philadelphia,  and  the  one 
vaoii  frequently  visited,  is  the  Slate 
Hoa.^  or  Independence  Hall.  It  fronts  on 
Chestaut  Street,  and,  including  the  wings, 
\vhi<^'  are  of  modern  construction  (1813), 
occu|.ies  the  whole  block,  extending  from 
Fifth  to  Sixth  Streets.  The  centre  edifice 
was  'luilt  by  Edward  Woolley,  from  de- 
K^igns  by  Gov.  Andrew  Hamilton.  It 
was  commenced  in  1729,  and  completed 
in  17^4,  at  a  cost  of  £5,600.  In  the  fol- 
lowing year  it  ■\^  as  occupied  by  the  Gen- 
eral A  isembly,  who  continued  its  occupa- 
tion until  the  removal  of  the  seat  of  gov- 
ernment to  Lancaster,  in  1799.  In  1740 
two  rvings  were  erected,  which  were  con- 
nects "l  with  the  main  building  by  an 
arc.KH',  with  stairs  leading  to  the  upper 
roon;. -.  At  a  later  period  there  were  add- 
ed r:  *.  the  Fii'th  and  Sixth  Street  corners 
oblo'.i  ;  wooden  buildings  or  sheds,  which 
v.e'-      ed  for  storage  and  other  purposes. 


-  ach  Street,  above  Columbia  Avenue. 
3LIC    Buildings. — The  most   iuter- 


The  old  wings  and  arcade  were  torn 
down  in  1813,  and  the  present  two-story 
edifice  was  erected  on  their  site.  The  City 
Bull.,  corner  of  Fifth  Street,  was  erected  in 
1790,  nnd  the  County  Court-IIousc  com- 
menced in  1789,  and  finished  in  1791,  an 
addition  to  it-being  made  in  1797.  In  the 
the  east  room  of  the  State-House,  known 
as  Independence  Ilall^  on  July  4,  1776,  the 
Declaration  of  Independence  was  adopted 
by  Congress,  and  publicly  proclaimed 
from  the  steps  on  the  same  day.  The 
room  presents  now  the  same  appearance 
as  it  did  at  that  time  in  furniture  and  in- 
terior decorations.  It  contains  a  stedue 
of  Washington.,  portraits  of  William  Penn, 
by  Henry  Inman,  of  John  Hancock, 
Marquis  de  la  Fayette,  by  Sully,  of  Baron 
Steuben,  Commodore  Porter,  Roger 
Sherman,  and  numerous  other  pictures, 
and  many  curious  Revolutionary  relics. 
Descriptive  catalogues  of  the  pictures  can 
be  obtained  of  the  superintendent,  James 
J.  Ashmen,  at  the  Hall.  Admission  daily 
from  nine  o'clock  until  tv.'o.  Here  also  is 
preserved  the  old  "  Liberty  Bell,"  import- 
ed from  England,  but  which,  as  the  visitor 
is  informed,  "  got  cracked  by  the  stroke  of 
a  hammer  in  trying  the  sound."  It  was 
recast  by  Isaac  Morris,  and  was  the  first 
bell  in  the  United  States  rung  after  the 
passage  of  the  immortal  Declaration.  It 
bears  the  following  lines,  said  to  have 
been  inscribed  by  Morris  himself : 

"  The  motto  of  our  father  band 

Circled  the  world  in  its  embrace — 
'Twas  Liberty  throughout  the  land, 

And  good  to  all  their  brothers'  race ; 
Long,  here  Mithin  the  pilgrims'  bell, 

Had  lingered — though  it  often  pealed — 
Those  treasured  tones  that  eke  should  tell 
When    Freedom's   proudest  scroll  was 
sealed! " 

A  small  bell,  made  from  the  filings  of 
the  original,  is  to  be  seen  in  the  rooms  of 
the  Historical  Society,  Athcngeum  Build- 
ing. The  Stedue  of  Washington  is  Avrought 
in  w-ood,  and  was  executed  by  Rush,  of 
Philadelphia.  Near  it  is  a  piece'of  stone, 
said  to  be  a  part  of  the  step  of  the  bal- 
cony upon  which  Joim  Nixon  stood  while 
reading  the  Declaration  of  Independence. 
Up-stairs,  over  Independence  Hall,  is  the 
"  Lobby."  famed  in  colonial  days  as  the 
scene  of  many  a  sumptuous  feast.  In  it 
were  confined  the  American  officers  cap- 

143 


PuiLADELPniA.] 


PENNSYLVAKTA. 


[Philadelphia. 


tured  at  the  battle  of  Gcrraantown.  The 
original  steeple  having  become  much  de- 
cayed, was  taken  down  in  1771:,  twenty- 
six  years  before  the  removal  of  the  Gov- 
ernment to  "Washington,  and  the  present 
one  erected  in  1828.  The  building  on  the 
southeast  corner  of  Chestnut  and  South 
Streets  was  the  old  Conf/rcss  JIall.  Here 
Washington  bade  farewell  to  public  life. 

The  Ciisiom-Hovse,  formerly  the  United 
States  Bank,  on  Chestnut  Street,  between 
Fourth  and  Fifth  Streets,  is  a  chaste  spe- 
cimen of  the  Doric  order  of  architecture, 
modelled  after  the  Parthenon  at  Athens, 
with  the  omission  of  the  colonnades  at 
the  sides.  The  Chestnut  Street  and  Li- 
brary Street  fronts  have  each  eight  mas- 
sive columns.  It  was  commenced  in  1819, 
and  comideled  in  about  five  years,  at  a 
cost  of  half  a  million  of  dollars. 

The  Mtrchanls'  Excliaucj(\  situated  be- 
tween Dock,  Walnut,  and  Third  Streets, 
is  of  wliite  marble.  It  is  a  beautiful 
structure,  and  of  its  kind  one  of  the 
finest  in  the  country.  The  Board  of 
Brokers  and  Commercial  Association 
have  rooms  here.  The  Merchants'  Head- 
ing-Room^ in  the  rotunda  of  the  second 
story,  is  ornamented  with  designs  in 
fresco. 

The  United  States  Mint  is  on  Chestnut 
Street,  corner  of  Juniper  Street,  and 
fronts  on  the  former  122  feet.  It  is  built 
of  white  marble,  in  the  style  of  a  Grecian 
Ionic  temple,  and  comprises  several 
distinct  apartments.  The  corner-stone  of 
the  present  building  was  laid  in  1829; 
the  edilice  cost  $200,000.  Coining  is 
among  the  most  interesting  and  attractive 
of  processes  to  those  who  h.ave  never 
witnessed  such  operations.  The  collec- 
tion of  coins  preserved  here  is  among 
the  largest  and  most  valuable  in  the 
Union.  Visitors  are  admitted  during  the 
morning  of  each  day,  Sundays  excepted, 
from  9  to  12  o'clock,  on  application  to 
the  proper  oflTicers. 

The  United  States  N'avij  Yard,  is  locat- 
ed on  Fr4)nt  Street,  ))elow  Prime,  \\  miles 
southeast  of  the  State  House,  and  con- 
tt.ins  within  its  limits  about  12  acres.  It 
is  enclosed  on  tliiee  sides  by  a  high  and 
substantial  l)rick  wall;  the  east  side 
fronts  on  and  is  open  to  the  Delaware 
liiver.  Entrance  from  foot  of  Federal 
Street.  The  yard  contains  every  prepa- 
144 


ration  necessary  for  building  vessels-of- 
war,  and  has  marine  barracks,  with  quar- 
ters for  the  officers.  The  sectional  float- 
ing dock  in  this  yard,  built  in  1850,  cost 
nearly  one  million  dollars.  Admission 
daily  from  10  to  5  p.  m.  A  movement  is 
now  on  foot  to  established  the  Navy 
Yard  permanently  at  League  Island,  far- 
ther down  the  Delawai'e. 

Nearly  opposite  the  Xavy  Yard,  ex- 
tending to  the  Schuylkill  River  (Gi-ay's 
Ferry  Boad),  is  the  United  States  Naval 
Asylum^  founded  in  1835,  and  constructed 
of  white  marble,  with  a  front  of  880  feet. 
The  grounds  are  extensive,  and  taste- 
fully laid  out.  Application  for  admission 
should  be  made  at  the  gate. 

Gireird  College  is  situated  on  Eidge 
Avenue,  in  a  northwest  direction  from 
the  city  proper,  about  two  miles  from  the 
State  House.  It  was  founded  by  Citizen 
Stephen  Girard,  a  native  of  France,  vvho 
died  in  1831.  He  bequeathed  $2,000,000 
for  the  purpose  of  erecting  suitable  build- 
ings "  for  the  gratuitous  instruction  and 
support  of  destitute  orphans."  The  site 
of  the  edifice  and  grounds  embrace  an 
area  of  42  acres,  and  crown  the  summit 
of  a  slope  at  once  commanding  and  at- 
tractive. The  corner-stone  vras  laid  July 
4,  1833.  The  buildings  were  completed 
in  1847,  and  the  institution  went  into 
operation  January  1,  1818.  The  central 
or  college  building  is  218  feet  long,  160 
broad,  and  97  feet  high,  and  is  a  noble 
marble  struct\n-e  of  the  Corinthian  order. 
Six  other  buildings,  each  125  feet  by  52, 
andtlu'ce  stories  high,  flank  the  main  edi- 
fice on  either  side.  The  library  is  in  the 
central  building,  to  the  right  of  the  main 
entrance.  A  statue  of  the  founder,  said  to 
be  a  truthful  likeness,  stands  at  the  foot  of 
the  grand  stairway  of  the  college.  Under- 
neath the  statue  his  remains  are  interred. 
The  easternmost  building  embraces  four 
separate  and  complete  dwellings  for  the 
several  officers  of  the  college.  Every  thing 
required  in  and  for  tlie  institution  is  pro- 
duced on  the  establishment.  The  number 
of  orphans  at  present  in  the  college  is 
470.  An  Infirmary  was  added  in  1859- 
'GO.  The  whole  is  enclosed  by  a.  stone 
wall  10  feet  high,  which  is  in  singular 
contrast  to  the  splendid  edifice  within. 
The  whole  cost  of  the  ground  and  struc- 
ture was  $1,933,821.78.     Permits  to  visit 


^Iir     DELPHIA.] 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


[PniLADELPniA. 


the  .  liege  and  grounds  may  be  obtained 
of  JUnry  W.  Arcy,  Secretary,  or  of  the 
following  Directors:  James  J.  Bosv,'ell, 
400  Chestnut  Street ;  A.  C.  Roberts,  SOI 
North  Eleventh  Street ;  Robert  M.  Foust, 
112  "-'  )uth  Fourth  Street;  IJenry  Simons, 
151"  Girard  Avenue;  Robert  Gill,  948 
Bout li  Front  Street.  Principal  entrances 
on  ihe  north  and  south  fronts.  Clergy- 
men are  not  admitted. 

/.niong  the  public  institutions  of  Phila- 
delj'"i;a,  the  Fairmount  Waier-ivorks  are 
worl'iy  special  notice.  These  fine  works, 
which  supply  the  city  with  water,  are  on 
the  o.'iSt  bank  of  the  Schuylkill,  about  two 
mill  -  northwest  from  the  heart  of  the 
c-.,  )ccupying  an  area  of  30  acres,  a 
\?  part    of    which    consists    of    the 

''  nt,"  an  eminence  100  feet  above 
.iter  in  the  river  below,  and 
iju^.it  GO  feet  above  the  most  elevated 
groimd  in  the  city.  The  top  is  divided 
into  four  reservoirs,  capable  of  containing 
26,000,000  gallons,  one  of  which  is  divid- 
ed into  three  sections  for  the  purpose  of 
filtrution.  The  whole  is  sun'ounded  by  a 
becuiliful  gravelled  walk,  from  which  may 
be  iiud  a  fine  view  of  the  city.  The  reser- 
voir '  contain  an  area  of  over  six  acres ; 
th  re  12  feet  deep,  lined  with  stone, 
nd  paved  with  biick,  laid  in  a  bed  of 
lay,  m  strong  lime  cement,  and  made 
.ater- tight.  The  power  necessaiy  for 
forcing  the  water  into  the  reservoirs  is 
o'  '  ed  by  throwing  a  dam  across  the 
j^c.,/i\lkill;  and  by  means  of  wheels  mov- 
ed by  the  water,  which  work  forcing- 
pumps,  the  water  of  the  river  is  raised  to 
the  roservoirs  on  the  top  of  the  "  mount." 
This  dam  is  1,G00  feet  long,  and  the  race 
upward  of  400  feet  long  and  90  wide,  cut 
in  sol'.d  rock.  The  mill-house  is  of  stone, 
23S  feet  long  and  56  wide,  and  capable 
of  ciintaining  eight  wheels,  and  each 
pump  will  raise  about  1,250,000  gallons 
in  L'l  hours.  The  Sprin/j  Garden  Wafcr- 
■iror'^^  are  situated  on  the  Schuylkill,  a 
■ii  distance  above  Fairmount.  The 
ui'iiige  dailv  consumption  of  water  in 
the  (ity.  of  Philadelphia  is  27,000,000 
gO'!'  ns. 

''3  United  States  GovernmiCnt  has 
:■»  .  arsenals  in  the  neighborhood  of 
rh.i;.'.delphia  ;  one  on  Gray's  Ferry  Road, 
south  of  the  Naval  Asylum,  the  other 
near  Frankford.    The  latter  has  one  of  the 


largest  powder-magazines  in  the  United 
States.  Applications  for  admission  are 
received  by  the  comm-andant  of  the  post. 
The  Slate  Arsenal  is  at  the  coi-ner  of  Six- 
teenth and  Filbert  Streets.  The  Soldiers 
and  Sailors^  Home  has  suitable  cpiarters 
in  the  building.  To  the  Home  is  at- 
tached a  library  of  3,000  volumes  for  the 
use  of  the  inmates.  The  City  Arsenal  ia 
on  Race  Street,  below  Broad. 

Places  of  Amusement. — Theatrical  ex- 
hibitions were  introduced  into  Philadel- 
phia in  1'754.  The  first  performances 
were  held  in  a  store-house  in  Water 
Street,  near  Pine.  Subsequently  a  suit- 
able building  was  erected  in  South  Street, 
but  it  was  not  until  I'ZOl,  that  the  theatre 
(since  removed)  on  Chestnut  Street,  west 
of  Sixth  Street,  was  built.  In  1809  the 
Olympic  {see  Walnut  Street  Theatre) 
was  built,  since  which  time  the  drama 
may  be  said  to  have  flourished. 

The  Academy  of  Music  (Opera-House), 
on  Broad  and  Locust  Streets,  is  the  m.ost 
complete  establishm.eut  of  its  kind  in  the 
United  States.  The  first  story  is  of 
brown-stone  and  the  rest  of  pressed  brick, 
with  brown-stone  dressing.  The  front, 
on  Broad  Street,  is  140  feet,  and  presents 
a  chaste  appearance.  Its  extent  on 
Locust  Street  is  268  feet.  The  auditori- 
um is  102  feet  deep,  90  feet  wide,  '70  feet 
high,  and  has  sittings  for  upward  of 
3,000  persons.  The  first-class  seats  num- 
ber 1,692,  and  are  divided  into  the  par- 
quet, parquet  circle,  balcony,  first  tiei', 
boxes,  and  six  proscenium  boxes.  The 
foyer,  or  retiring-room,  in  the  second 
story  front,  is  a  handsome  apartment,  sup- 
ported by  sixteen  Ionic  columns.  The 
chandelier  in  the  centre  has  240  lights, 
and  is  much  admired.  The  Academy  was 
first  opened  January  2G,  1857. 

Tl)e  Walnut  Street  Theatre  is  at  the 
coi-ner  of  Walnut  and  Ninth  Streets.  It 
was  built  in  1809  as  the  "Olympic,"  and 
enlarged  and  remodelled  in  18G5. 

Arch  Street  Theatre  is  in  Arch  Street, 
above  Sixth.  The  Ncvi  Chestnut  Street 
Theatre  is  a  commodious  and  well-ar- 
ranged estabhshment.  It  froiits  on  Chest- 
nut Street,  west  of  Tv^-clfth  Street.  The 
Musical  Fund  Hall,  806  Locust  Street, 
between  Eighth  and  Ninth  Streets,  is  a 
favorite  concert  and  lecture  room.  It 
was  erected  in  1824,  and  cost  $27,500.    It 

145 


PniLADKLPIlIA.] 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


[Philadelphia. 


ha3  seats  for  2,500  persons.  The  City 
Mmenm,  Callowhill  Street,  below  Fifth ; 
Welc/i's  National  Circic^^  ^Valnut  Street, 
above  Ei.chth  ;  Ooficerl  Hall,  1221  Chest- 
nut Street;  Xatiojial  Hall,  1226  Market 
Street ;  Sansom  Street  Hall,  Sansom 
Streat,  above  Sixth  ;  the  Assembly  Build- 
ings, southwest  corner  of  Chestnut  and 
Tenth  Streets;  Metropolitan  HaV,  613 
Chestnut  Street ;  Coniinental  Thea're, 
Walnut  near  Eighth  Street ;  Whcatley's 
Theatre,  Chestnut  Street,  above  Twelfth. 
There  are  several  other  halls,  concert,  and 
lecture  rooms  in  the  more  remote  parts  of 
the  city. 

The  Gymnadum,  under  the  manage- 
ment of  Professors  Hillebrand  &  Lewis,  is 
open  daily  at  the  northeast  corner  of  Arch 
and  Ninth  Streets  (see  Skating-Parks). 
Choice  seats  at  all  the  above  places  can 
be  secured  at  Risley's  Continental  News 
Exchange  up  to  61  p.  m.,  each  day. 

When  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
Academy  of  Music  and  La  Pierre  House, 
a  good  opportunity  is  afforded  the 
stranger  of  visiting  the  fine  Club-Rooms 
of  the  Union  Leayue  Association  (pictures, 
flags,  etc.).  No  more  elegant  place  to 
beguile  an  hour  can  be  found  in  the  city. 
Upward  of  one  hundred  and  seventy-six 
thousand  dollars  were  expended  on  the 
construction  of  this  building,  an  amount 
which  has  been  largely  increased  by  out- 
lays subsequently  made  to  repair  the 
damages  caused  by  the  fire  of  September 
6,  1866.  The  li-t  of  members  num- 
bered (1866)  1,760  ;  George  W.  Poker, 
secretary.  The  new  hall  of  the  Horti- 
cultnral  Society,  south  of  the  Academy, 
is  a  handsome  edifice,  just  completed. 

Meoical  Institltions.  —  Philadelphia 
is  justly  famed  for  its  schools  of  medi- 
cine. Among  them  the  most  prominent 
is  the  medical  department  of  the  Univer- 
sily  of  Pennsylvania.  It  occupies  a  verv 
central  locale  on  the  west  side  of  Ninth 
Street,  between  Chestnut  and  Market 
Streets,  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of 
the  Continental,  Girard,  and  other  lead- 
ing hotels.  The  College  of  Philadelphia 
was  instituted  in  1749,  and  was  tlic  first 
medic  il  college  in  the  United  States.  In 
] 770  its  charter  was  abrogated;  and  the 
Univc'isity  of  Pennsylvania,  which  had 
been  fiivt  established  (1711)  as  an  acade- 
my, was  organized.  In  1780  the  charter 
146 


and  privileges  of  the  college  were  re- 
stored by  the  Legislature,  and  in  1791  the 
two  institutions  were  iraited  as  the  Uni- 
versity of  Pennsylvania.  It  has  a  large 
and  valuable  librar}-,  and  an  extensive 
and  valuable  anatomical  collection.  This 
institution  is  largely  indebted  for  its  es- 
tablishment and  success  to  Drs,  Wm. 
Shippen  and  John  Morgan,  whose  por- 
traits adorn  its  walls, 

Jefferson  Medical  College,  situated  in 
Tenth  Street,  below  Chestnut,  was  estab- 
lished in  1825,  and  was  originally  con- 
nected with  the  college  at  Canonsburgh, 
but  is  now  an  independent  institution. 
The  number  of  pupils  averages  about  300 
annually.  It  has  an  anatomical  museum 
and  lecture-room,  open  to  visitors. 

The  College  of  Physicians,  instituted  in 
1787  and  chartered  1789,  is  one  of  the 
principal  sources  from  which  proceeds  the 
Pharmacopoeia  of  the  United  States.  The 
College  Hall  is  located  at  the  northeast 
corner  of  Locust  and  Thirteenth  Streets, 
and  contains  a  large  and  valuable  medical 
library. 

The  Philadelphia  College  of  Pharmacy^ 
in  Filbert  Street,  above  Seventh,  estab- 
lished in  1821,  was  the  first  regularly  or- 
ganized institution  of  its  kind  in  the 
country.     The  hall  was  built  in  1832. 

Besides  the?e,  Philadelphia  has  an 
Eclectic  and  Honiccopathic  Medical  Col- 
lege, a  Female  Mediccd  College,  College  of 
Dental  Surgery,  and  several  other  prom- 
inent medical  institutions. 

Literary  and  Scientific  Institutions. 
(See  also  Libraries.) 

The  American  Philosophical  Society^ 
founded  in  1743,  has  its  hall  at  tlie  south- 
west corner  of  South  Fifth  and  Chestnut 
Streets,  It  owes  its  origin  mainly  to  the 
efforts  and  influence  of  Franklin,  Gov. 
John  Ponn,  and  the  active  members  of 
''  the  Junto,"  a  once  celebrated  scientific 
association,  opganized  in  1727.  The  site  of 
the  present  building  was  donated  by  the 
State  (1785),  and  the  building  erected  and 
occupied  in  1790.  It  has  a  library  of 
25,000  volumes,  and  a  choice  collection 
of  minerals,  fos.^ils,  and  ancient  relics. 
The  Committee-Room  should  be  visited. 
For  admission  td^  the  hall,  apply  to  the 
librarian,  J.  P.  Wesley. 

The  Franklin  Listitute,  situated  at  No. 
155   Seventh   Street,  below  Market,  was 


Philadelphia.] 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


[PlIILADELrHIA. 


incorporated  in  1824.  Its  m'cmbers  are 
very  numerous,  composed  of  manutac-. 
turers,  artis^ts,  mechanic?,  and  persons 
friendly  to  the  mechanic  arts.  The  an- 
nual (October)  exhibitions  of  this  Insti- 
tute never  fail  to  attract  a  large  number 
of  visitors.  It  has  a  library  of  about 
8,000  volumes,  and  an  extensive  reading- 
room,  where  most  of  the  periodicals  of 
the  day  may  be  found.  Lectures  are 
given  on  Tuesday  and  Thursday  of  each 
week,  from  October  to  April.  Strangers 
admitted  on  application  to  M.  W.  Ham- 
ilton, secretary. 

The  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences, 
founded  1812,  incorporated  ISlY,  is  well 
worthy  a  visit.  The  present  building, 
which  is  at  the  intersection  of  Broad  and 
Sansom  Streets,  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  the  Union  League  and  La  Pierre 
House,  was  commenced  May  25,  1839, 
and  enlarged  in  184'7-1853.  The  main 
hall  is  45  feet  by  28,  with  spacious  gal- 
leries. The  library  is  one  of  the  most 
complete  of  its  kind  in  the  United  States. 
(See  Libraries.)  The  Collection  of  Orni- 
tJwlogical  works  and  specimens  is  espe- 
cially rich,  as  is  also  the  Cabinet  of  Bot- 
any. The  Cabinets  of  Geology  and  Min- 
eralogy are  also  very  complete.  The 
entire  collection  of  the  Museum  embraces 
over  200,000  specimens.  Admission  by 
members'  tickets  on  Tuesday  and  Friday 
afternoons.  Tickets  also  of  E.  Parish, 
800  Arch  Street. 

The  Historical  Society  of  Pennsylvania, 
founded  for  the  purpose  of  diffusing  a 
knowledge  of  local  history,  especially  in 
relation  to  the  State  of  Pennsylvania,  has 
its  rooms  in  the  upper  floor  of  the  Athe- 
nteum  Building,  corner  of  Sixth  and  Adel- 
phi  Streets.  It  has  caused  to  be  pub- 
lished a  large  amount  of  information  on 
svibjects  connected  with  the  early  history 
of  the  State,  and  is  now  actively  engaged 
v.'ith  similar  pursuits.  Here  are  pre- 
served an  original  portrait  of  Penn,  be- 
lieved to  be  the  only  one  in  existence, 
the  belt  of  ivampiom  presented  to  Penn, 
by  the  Leni-Lenape  sachems  at  the 
famous  treaty  in  1682,  and  other  inter- 
esting relics.  Open  every  Monday  (July 
and  August  excepted). 

The  tlriiversity  of  Pennsylvania,  Ninth 
Street,  between  Chestnut  and  Market 
Streets,  is  a  prominent  edifice,  occupying 


a  great  portion  of  the  entire  square. 
Tlie  University  was  founded  ;■.«  a  charity 
school  and  academy  in  17-15,  erected 
into  a  college  in  1755,  and  sub^ecpiently 
into  a  university  in  1797.  In  1798,  the 
trustees  of  the  University  purchased  from 
the  State  what  was  then  the  President's 
(United  States)  House.  This  building 
was  enlarged  in  1807,  and  finally  re- 
moved in  1828,  to  make  way  for  the 
present  structures.  The  University  em- 
braces four  departments,  viz. :  the  Aca- 
demical, the  Collegiate,  the  Medical,  and 
the  Law.     (See  Medical  College.) 

The  Polytechnic  College  of  Pennsyl- 
vania, on  West  Penn  Square,  Market 
Street,  is  organized  on  the  plans  of  the 
Industrial  Colleges  of  France  and  Ger- 
many, and  comprises  a  Scientific  School, 
and  six  Technical  Schools.  It  was  in- 
corporated in  1853. 

The  Wagner  Free  Institute,  the  gift  of 
Professor  Wagner,  is  near  the  corner  of 
Columbia  Avenue  and  Thirteenth  Street. 
The  fine  residences  of  Edwin  Foi-rest  and 
Thomas  J.  Mackenzie,  are  in  the  neigh- 
borhood. 

Libraries. — (See  also  Literary  and 
Scientific  Institutions.)  There  are  up- 
ward of  20  public  libraries  in  Philadel- 
phia, containing  300,000  volumes. 

The  Philadelphia  Library,  sometimes 
called  the  Franklin  Library,  founded  in 
1731,  through  the  influence  of  Benja- 
min Franklin  and  the  members  of  the 
"Junto,"  stands  on  South  Fifth  (No. 
125),  near  Chestnut  Street.  The  first 
importation  of  books  was  received  Oc- 
tober, 1732.  In  1*744  the  Union  Library 
Company  was  incorporated  with  it.  The 
corner-stone  of  the  present  library  build- 
ing was  laid  August  31,  1789.  Over  the 
front  entrance  is  a  marble  statue  of 
Franklin,  executed  in  Italy,  by  order  of 
William  Bingham.  The  library  is  rich 
in  early  printed  works,  and  works  on 
American  history.  Valuable  donations 
of  books  have  been  made  by  William 
Logan,  Samuel  Preston,  Robert  Barclay, 
and  Wilham  Mackenzie.  The  number  of 
volumes,  including  the  Loganian  Library, 
is  85,000,  and  is  increasing  at  the  rate  of 
2,000  annually.  Admission  free  from 
10  o'clock  till  sunset.  Lloyd  P.  Smith, 
librarian. 

The  Ifercantile  Library,  near  the  Phil- 

147 


PniLADELPHIA.] 


PEXXSYLVANIA. 


[PniLADE! 


rr.ii. 


adelpliia  Librarv,was  foimded  in  1821,  and 
the  present  Ijuildini!;  erected  in  1845,  at  a 
cost  of  ;i:/io,199.  Library  numbers  40,000 
volumes.  Oj)en  from  nine  a.  m.  to  ten 
p.  M.  daily.     John  Edmands,  librarian. 

The  Libranj  beloof^ing  to  the  Acad- 
eme/ of  Xaiural  Sd dices,  northwest  cor- 
ner Broad  and  Sansom  Streets,  contains 
20,000  volumes. 

The  A/hoiceum,  on  Sixth  Street,  corner 
of  Adelphi,  is  generally  visited  by  stran- 
gers. This  institution  was  established 
Fel)ruary  9,  1814,  and  opened  in  the  fol- 
lowing month,  over  "  Gary's  book-store," 
southeast  corner  of  Chestnut  and  Fourth 
Streets.  The  corner-stone  of  the  present 
edifice  was  laid  November  1,  1845,  and 
the  hall  opened  in  1847.  Cost  $50,000. 
The  second  stoi'y  contains  a  library,  news 
and  reading  rooins,  and  a  chess-room. 
The  libniry  numbers  25,000  volumes, 
John  W.  Wiiite,  librarian.  In  a  hall  in 
the  third  story  of  the  Athenaeum  is  the 
Lihrary  of  the  Historical  Society  of  Fenn- 
sylvania,  which,  though  small,  contains 
many  valuable  works.  The  collection  of 
ofRcial  documents  relating  to  the  early 
French  devolution  preserved  here  num- 
bers 1,000.  The  medical  history  of  the 
American  Revolution,  known  as  the 
"  Potts  Papers,"  and  the  original  manu- 
script report  of  Mason  and  Dixon's  sur- 
veys, are  also  kept  here,  together  with 
the  only  original  life-portrait  of  William 
Penn  ever  taken.  An  antique  clock  by 
Fronumtcll,  of  Amsterdam  (1G59),  is 
worthy  of  notice.  The  whole  number  of 
volumes,  l)ound  and  unbound,  is  18,470. 
Piichard  Eddy,  lil)rarian. 

Tile  Apprentices^  Library,  corner  of 
Ffth  and  Arch  Streets,  has  22,000  vol- 
umes. It  was  founded  in  1821,  and  is 
open  to  the  youth  of  both  sexes. 

Friends''  Library,  304  Arch  Street,  has 
7,000  volumes.  John  L.  Stokes,  libra- 
rian. 

L,(irn  Association  Library,  Court-IIouse, 
southeast  corner  of  Chestnut  and  Sixth 
Streets,  organized  18fi2;  7,500  volumes. 

AuT  SociKTiiis.  —  The  Ptnnsvlvania 
Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  founded  iii  1805, 
and  incor))orated  1803,  has  a  fine  build- 
ing, witii  a  noble  suite  of  galleries  on 
Chestnut  Street;  entrance,  1025  Chest- 
nut Street,  between  Tenth  and  Eleventh 
Streets.  It  possesses  a  very  valuai^lc  and 
148 


permanent  collection  of  pictures,  and 
holds  an  annual  exhibition  of  new  '  orks 
(April  to  June).  Among  the  more  '':um- 
inent  pictures  on  exhibition  are,  Deith  on 
the  Pcde  Horse,  and  Christ  R<jectrd,  by 
"West ;  and  the  Dead  Man  Bestor'd,  by 
Vrashington  Allston.  The  Relief  of  I^ij- 
den,  by  Wittkamp,  is  also  a  line  pictui-e. 
Admission  25  cents;  catalogue  extrn. 

The  Artists'  Fund  Society,  1334 
Chestnut  Street,  offer's  a  fine  exhil  ition 
of  American  art.  The  I'oom.s  of  the 
JVumisoiatic  Society  of  PJiiladelphla  are 
at  524  Walnut  Street,  facing  Independ- 
ence Square  (former  number  927  Market). 
The  School  of  Design  for  Women,  estab- 
lished in  1850,  is  on  Penn  Square  and 
Filbert  Street. 

Bbnkvolent  and  Charitable  Institu- 
tions. —  The  hospitals,  asylums,  and 
other  charities  of  the  city,  number  more 
than  100.  The  following  are  best  worthy 
a  visit,  viz. : 

The  Pennsylvania  Hospital,  in  Pine 
Street,  between  Eighth  and  Ninth  Siieets, 
is  an  admirable  institution,  founded  in 
1751.  It  contains  an  anatomical  museum 
and  a  library  of  more  than  10,0(  0  vol- 
umes ;  A.  F.  Miller,  librarian.  In  the 
rear  of  the  lot,  fronting  on  Spence  Street, 
is  a  small  building,  which  formerly  eon- 
tained  West's  celebrated  picture  of  Clrisi 
Healing  the  Sick,  presented  to  this  insti- 
tution by  its  author,  and  now  in  the 
Insane  Asylum.  .  Admission,  Monday 
and  Thursday  afternoons.  The  corner- 
stone of  the  east  wing  was  laid  May 
28,  1755  ;  the  west  wing  was  erected  in 
1790,  and  the  centre  in  1805.  A  statue 
of  Penn  stands  in  the  lawn  facing  Pino 
Street. 

The  County  Abnshouse,  situat(i  on 
the  west  side  of  the  Schuylkill,  facing  the 
river  opposite  South  Street,  is  j  ii  im- 
mense structure,  consisting  of  four 
main  buildings,  each  500  feet  fron:.,  cov- 
ering and  enclosing  about  10  acres  of 
groi'-^d.  The  site  is  much  elevated  above 
tlie  bank  of  the  river,  and  commands  .». 
fine  view  of  the  city  and  surroi 
country.  Connected  uith  the  Aim 
is  a  hospital  v/ith  accoramodatio 
GOO  patients. 

Pennsylvania.  J/isanc  {Asylum) 
tal,  West  Philcidcli)hia,  between 
Chester  and  Haverford  roads.      I 


for 


est- 
•  ;on- 


PaiLADELrniA.] 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


[PlIILADF.LPIIIA. 


tains  male  and  female  departments,  and 
'v\as  first  opened  in  1841.  Tl;e  grounds 
aticiched  to  it  embrace  114  acres.  The 
main  front  is  430  feet  long.  Christ  Heal- 
ing the  /Sick,  by  "West,  is  on  cxliibiticn 
here.  Visitors  admitted  every  day,  ex- 
cept Saturday  and  Sunday.  The  Market 
Street  (W.  P.)  cars  run  direct  to  the  Hos- 
pital. 

The  United  Slates  Marine  Hospital^ 
founded  1835,  has  a  handsome  situation 
on  the  east  bank  of  the  Schuylkill,  below 
South  Street.  It  is  for  the  use  of  invalid 
seamen  and  officers  disabled  in  the  ser- 
vice (see  United  States  Naval  Asylum). 
The  Pennsylvania  Insiiiiite  for  the  Deaf 
anel  Dtcmb  is  situated  on  the  corner  of 
Broad  and  Pine  Streets.  The  present 
building  was  erected  in  1825,  from  de- 
signs by  Ilaviland,  at  a  cost  of  r^80,000. 
The  Fennsylvania  histitidion  for  the  In- 
struction of  the  Blind,  situated  in  Pace 
Street,  corner  of  Twenty-first,  should  be 
visited. 

The  Preston  Retreat,  another  famous 
charity,  the  bequest  of  Dr.  Jonas  Preston, 
occupies  the  square  bounded  by  Tv/en- 
tieth,  Twenty-first,  Hamilton,  and  fcipring 
Garden  Streets.     Admissicn  daily. 

The  House  of  liefuge  is  on  Tvrenty- 
second  Street  and  Girard  Avenue,  in  the 
rear  of  the  Penitentiary ;  the  House  of 
Correction  is  at  Bush  Hill ;  and  WilVs 
Hospitcd  is  on  Pace  Street,  opposite  Lo- 
gan Square. 

Churches,  etc. — Thewish  of  the  city's 
founder,  Penn,  that  every  one  might  wor- 
ship God  according  to  the  dictates  of  his 
own  conscience,  seems  to  have  been  most 
religiously  carried  out  by  its  citizens.  Ee- 
ligious  societies  have  multiplied  exceed- 
ingly, and  church  edifices  have  kept  pace 
m  increase.  These  now  number  370 
against  159  in  1848,  of  which  76  belong 
to  the  Presbyterian  denomination,  65  to 
the  Episcopal,  and  34  to  the  Roman 
Catholic.  But  14  belong  to  the  Friends 
or  Quakers.  V/e  enumerate  those  only 
best  worthy  the  stranger's  attention  : 

The  Cathedral  Church  of  St.  Fetcr  and 
St.  Paid,  on  Logan  Square,  Eighteenth 
Street,  is  built  of  red  stone,  and  is  the 
laigest  and  most  imposing  church  edifi.ce 
m  the  city.  The  plan  oT  the  edifice  is 
that  of  the  modern  EoAan  crueilbrm 
churches,  having  a  nave  in  the  centre.    It 


was  comm.cnced  in  September,  1846,  from 
designs  by  Le  Brun,  and  oi)ened  for  wor- 
ship in  1862.  The  frout  portico  was  de- 
signed by  Notman,  and  is  much  admired. 
The  dome  rises  to  a  height  of  210  feet, 
it  has  a  fine  organ  and  fresco  paintings. 
The  altar-piece,  by  Erumidi,  is  conspicu- 
ous for  its  fine  coloiing. 

The  Church  of  St.  Maries  (Episcopal), 
on  Locust  Street,  near  Sixteenth  Street,  is 
a  beautiful  Gothic  edifice  of  light-red 
sandstone,  with  a  tower  and  steeple  of 
admirable  grace.  It  was  erected  in  1849, 
from  designs  by  Notman. 

Christ  Church,  on  Second  Street, 
above  Market,  vvdth  its  soaring  spire,  is  a 
very  interesting  object  in  its  ancient  and 
quaint  aspect.  In  the  steeple,  v/hich  is 
196  feet  high,  is  a  fine  chime  of  bells.  It 
was  comm.enced  in  1727,  and  comjpleted 
in  1753.  This  church  v.as  organized  in 
1695,  and,  until  the  erection  of  the  pres- 
ent building,  worship  vras  conducted  in  a 
log  chapel.  The  communion  service,  pre- 
sented by  Queen  Anne  in  1708,  is  unicpae. 
Vv^ashington  worshipped  here. 

The  Church  of  the  Tnearnation,  south- 
east corner  of  Broad  and  Jefferson  Streets, 
the  corner-stone  of  which  was  laid  July 
28,  1866,  is  a  handsom.e  edifice.  It  is 
of  Liperville  granite,  relieved  by  corners 
of  Pictou  stone. 

The  Church  of  Ccdvary  (Presbyterian), 
in  Locust  Street,  and  the  Baptist  church 
in  Broad  and  Arch  Streets,  are  also  of 
sandstone,  with  imposing  towers  and 
spiies.  We  may  also  mention  among  the 
churches  of  the  greatest  architectural  in- 
terest, St.  Sicphe7i's  (Episcopal),  on  Fourth 
Street,  below  Market,  built  1823,  in  the 
Gothic  style,  and  the  Catholic  Church  of 
the  Assumption,  St.  JiuWs,  the  Preshytc- 
7'ian  churches  upon  Arch  and  Eighteenth 
Streets,  and  upon  Arch  and  Tenth  Streets ; 
the  Church  of  the  Nalhity,  and  the  Bap- 
tist cJiurches  on  Chestnut  and  Filth 
Streets. 

St.  Peter's  Church,  at  the  intersection 
of  Pine  and  Third  Streets,  is  a  veneiable 
edifice,  founded  1758,  and  finished  1761. 
In  the  yard  is  a  moLument  to  Commodore 
Becatur.  In  the  towej^  of  St.  Peter's, 
St.  Stephen's,  and  of  Christ  Church  there 
are  chimes  of  bells. 

The  Suedes^  Church,  Southwark,  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  Navy  Yard,  should  not  be 

149 


PuiLADELrniA.] 


PEXXSYLVANIA. 


[Philadeli-hia. 


forgotten  1>y  the  visitor.  It  is  the  oldest 
church  edilice  in  the  city,  having  been 
erected  in  1700.  Previous  to  that  year, 
the  site  upon  which  it  stands  was  occu- 
pied by  a  log  buihling,  which  serve.l  both 
as  a  place  of  worship,  and  a  block-house 
to  protect  against  Indian  attacks.  This 
building,  which  constituted  the  original 
Swedes'  Church,  was  erected  in  1677,  four 
years  before  the  arrival  of  Penn.  In  the 
yard  of  the  present  edifice  is  the  grave^f 
Wilson  the  ornithologist. 

The  meeting-houses  of  the  Friends  are 
interesting  only  from  association.  The 
first,  erected  in  1685,  has  long  since  been 
torn  down.  Previous  to  that  the  meet- 
ing of  tlie  Friends  took  place  near  the 
Treaty-Ground,  at  Shackamason  (1681). 
That  on  the  corner  of  Arch  and  Fourth 
is  best  worth  a  visit.  Next  to  the  Swedes' 
Church  it  has  the  oldest  burying-grouud 
in  the  city.  "William  Penn  spoke  over  the 
grave  of  the  first  person  buried  here. 
The  building  on  Arch  Street,  corner  of 
Fifih,  is  interesting  as  having  been  built 
and  used  by  the  "  Fighting  Quakers  "  of 
the  Revolution.  It  is  now  occupied  as  the 
Apprentices'  Lihrary. 

St.  A7ulrew\s  Church,  on  Eighth  Street, 
near  Spence,  has  an  imposing  fa9;.  le.  It 
is  copied  from  the  Ihnple  of  Bacchus  at 
Taos,  and  is  considered  the  most  perfect 
specimen  of  the  Grecian  Ionic  order  in 
the  city. 

Cemeteries. — Philadeljihia  can  boast  a 
larger  number  of  beautiful  cemeteries 
perliaps  than  any  other  city  of  the  Union. 
First  and  most  attractive  among  them  is 
Laurel  Hill.  This  beautiful  rural  bury- 
ing-ground,  the  second  in  respect  to  age, 
and  by  many  esteemed  the  first  in  point 
of  beauty  in  the  Union,  is  situated  on 
Ridge  Avenue,  near  the  "  falls "  of  the 
Schuylkill,  on  the  east  bank  of  that  pic- 
turesque stream.  It  is  easily  reached  by 
the  street-cars  from  any  portion  of  the 
city,  or  by  boat  up  the  Scliuylkill  from 
Fairmount.  The  bank,  upon  which  a 
great  portion  of  tlie  original  Laurel  Hill 
is  laid  out,  and  many  of  the  finer  monu- 
ments are  erected,  is  110  feet  high,  and 
commands  a  most  charming  view  of  the 
river.  2s'o  more  fitting  or  l)eauliful  si)Ot 
tor  a  cemetery  is  to  l>e  found  in  the 
country.  OW  "(North)  Laurel  Hill  was 
founded  in  1835,  and  laid  out  by  John 
150 


Jay  Smith,  Esq.,  President  of  the  present 
Laurel  Hill  Company;  it  embraced  ori- 
ginally but  20  acres.  The  surface  i^  un- 
dulating, prettily  diversified  by  hill  and 
dale,  and  adorned  with  a  number  of  lare 
and  beautiful  trees.  The  irregularity  of 
the  ground,  together  with  the  foliage, 
shrubs,  and  fragrant  flowers,  which  lere 
abound,  with  an  extensive  and  divers  hed 
view,  make  the  whole  scene  highly  im- 
pressive. 

"  Unshed  as  this  scene  thy  accents  he ;  " 
The  voiceless  solitude  of  death 
Breathes  more  than  mortal  majesty.'" 

The  additions  to  the  cemetery  grouiids 
embrace  more  than  130  acres,  and  ure 
respectively  known  as  "  Central "  and 
"South  Laurel  Hill."  Approaches  to 
the  different  portions  of  the  entire  ctwie- 
tery  lead  from  Ridge  Avenue,  whirh 
bounds  it  on  the  east.  The  westerr  ir 
river  front  extends  more  than  a  mile  in 
length.  North  Laurel  Hill,  being  the 
oldest  and  most  finished,  should  be 
visited  first.  The  group  near  the  ijiain 
entrance,  known  as  "  Old  Mortality,''  hy 
Thorn,  is  fijielv  executed  and  will  c  jm- 
mand  attention.  The  Chapel  on  the 
brow  of  the  hill,  a  little  to  the  right  of 
Old  Mortality,  is  a  Gothic  structure  ^'iih 
a  large  stained-glass  window.  Impro\  e- 
ments  are  being  made  hereabouts  whioh 
will  add  much  to  the  beauty  of  the 
ground.  The  Super intcndenVs  bell  ia 
close  by  the  chapel.  Opposite  the 
chapel  is  the  monument  to  General 
Hugh  Mercor,  who  fell  at  Princeton,  and 
not  far  off  the  tomb  of  Commodore  Hull  ; 
the  remains  of  Commodores  Murray,  La- 
valette,  and  Ilassler  are  also  near  li 
The  vault  of  Dr.  Kane,  the  Arctic  ex- 
plorer, is  underneath  the  brow  of  the  hill, 
overlooking  the  Schuylkill,  and  is  cut 
from  the  solid  rock.  Among  the  more 
prominent  monuments  recently  erected 
at  Laurel  Hill  are  those  to  General  F.  Pat- 
terson, Henry  P.  Voorhees,  Mrs.  Kemp- 
ton,  and  Miss  Bailey.  The  last,  whidiia 
of  Aberdeen  granite,  is  much  admired. 
The  granite  obelisk  to  Charles  Thom-on, 
perpetual  Secretary  of  the  Contind.tal 
Congress,  and  the  Ilassler  monunu-nt., 
are  both  fine  specimens  of  art.  Godi ;  ey, 
the  inventor  of  the  quadrant.  Judge  <..'m- 
rad,  the  author  of  "Jack  Cade,"  D: .  R. 


PniLADELPniA.] 


TENNSYLVANIA. 


[Philadelphia. 


M.  Bird  and  Brown,  the  novelists, 
Joseph  C.  Ncal,  the  author  of  the  "  Char- 
coal SketchewS,"  and  Joseph  S.  Lewis,  the 
projector  and  builder  of  Fairmount 
Water-works,  are  all  buried  here.     But 


the 


great 


attraction  of  Laurel  Hill,  and 


that  which  preeminently  distinguishes  it 
among  other  public  burying-grounds,  is 
its  unique  garden  landscape,  and  the 
profusion  of  valuable  ti'ccs,  shrubs,  and 
flowers  which  adorn  and  beautify  it. 
Amongst  the  former,  of  more  than  ordi- 
nary interest,  are  some  cedars  of  Leb- 
anon, the  first  which  bore  fruit  in  the 
Unito.1  States,  and  noble  specimens  of 
the  weeping  ash,  which  thrive  finely. 
The  great  want  of  Laurel  Kill,  a  good 
drive,  is  now  being  supplied.  Admis- 
sion every  day,  except  Sunday,  from  nine 
o'clock  until  sunset.  No  tickets  are 
necessary  except  to  drive  in,  and  these 
are  occasionally  furnished  on  application 
to  the  secretary  or  treasurer  at  524  ^Yal- 
nut  Street,  Philadelphia. 

GlenwGod,  at  the  intersection  of  Ridge 
Road  and  Islington  Lane,  is  prettily  sit- 
uated on  the  ridge  which  divides  the 
waters  flowing  into  the  Delaware,  from 
those  falling  into  the  Schuylkill.  It 
contains  21  acres.  Office,  16  North 
Seventli  Street. 

Mount  Vernon^  on  Ridge  Avenue,  op- 
posite Laurel  Hill,  will  repay  a  visit.  It 
has  a  handsome  entrance. 

Moiniment  Cemetery^  situated  on  Broad 
Street,  in  the  vicinity  of  Turner's  Lane, 
about  three  miles  from  the  State  House, 
was  opened  in  1838,  and  new  contains 
many  handsome  tombs.  Ofilce,  141 
North  Sixth  Street. 

Honaldson's  Cemetery  is  in  Shippen 
Street,  between  Ninth  and  Tenth.  Odd 
Fellows'  Cemetery^  Twenty-fourth  Street 
and  Islington  Lane,  contains  32  acres, 
and  is  intersected  by  spacious  avenues. 

Woodlaneh,  on  the  Darby  road,  beyond 
the  Schuylkill,  though  comparatively  a 
new  cemetery,  has  many  attractions,  and 
commands  some  fine  views.  It  is  80 
acres  in  extent. 

The  burying-grounds  attached  to  the 
Swedes'  and  Christ  Churches,  and  the 
Friends^  Burial- Ground.,  at  the  junction 
of  Arch  and  Fourth,  contain  some  inter- 

(See  CnuRCiiES.) 
-The  prison   or  penitentiary 


esting  monuments. 
Prisons. 


system  of  Pennsylvania,  first  adopted  in 
1794,  and  perfected  in  1S29,  reflects  last- 
ing credit  on  its  projectors,  and  is  well 
worthy  the  attention  of  all  interested  in 
this  deeply  important  subject.  The 
Eastern  Pcniicntiary.,  in  the  northwest 
part  of  the  city,  is  situated  on  the  prop- 
erty once  known  as  Cherry  Hill,  on 
Coates  Street,  corner  of  Twenty-fifth 
Street,  and  south  of  Girard  College.  It 
covers  about  10  acres  of  ground,  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  wall  30  feet  high,  and  in 
architecture  resembles  a  baronial  castle 
of  the  middle  ages.  It  is  constructed 
and  conducted  on  the  principle  of  strictly 
solitary  confinement  in  separate  cells, 
and  is  admirably  calculated  for  the  se- 
curity, the  health,  and,  so  far  as  is  con- 
sistent with  its  objects,  the  comfort  of  its 
occupants.  It  was  finished  in  1829,  at  a 
cost,  including  the  purchase  of  the  site, 
of  $600,000.  The  average  number  con- 
fined here  yearly  is  850.  Previous  to 
the  erection  of  this  penitentiary,  the  old 
AValnut  Street  Prison  was  used  for  the 
custody  of  convicts. 

The  County  [Moyenvcnsing)  Prison^  sit- 
uated on  Passyunk  road,  Moyamensing 
District,  below  Tenth  Street,  is  a  spacious 
Indo-Gothic  building.  It  is  constructed  of 
Quincy  granite,  is  three  stories  high,  and 
presents  an  imposing  appearance.  It  is 
appropriated  to  the  confinement  of  persons 
awaiting;  trial,  or  those  who  are  sentenced 
for  short  periods.  It  is  managed  by  a 
board  of  15  inspectors.  Admission  by 
ticket.  The  Debtors'  Prison^  adjoining 
the  above  on  the  north,  is  constructed  of 
red  sandstone,  in  a  style  of  massive 
Egyptian  architecture.  It  is  no  longer 
used  as  a  debtors'  prison. 

The  House  of  Refvge  is  situated  in 
Parish  Street,  between  Twenty-second 
and  Twenty-fourth  Streets,  near  Girard 
College.  City  oflice,  northeast  corner  of 
Arch  and  Seventh  Streets.  Visitors  ad- 
mitted Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday 
afternoons.  Every  needful  facility  for  vis- 
iting the  above  prisons  v.ill  be  fmnished 
on  application  at  the  Mayor's  oflice,  or  1o 
Mr.  Richard  Vaux,  No.  520  Walnut 
Street. 

Markets.  —  The  Marlcets  of  Phila- 
delphia, 24  in  number,  are,  many  of 
them,  worthy  of  special  notice,  for  their 
gi-eat  extent  and  admirable  appointment. 

151 


PniLADELrniA.] 


PEXXSYLVAXIA. 


[Philadel:  :tia. 


The  FranlTm  Market,  on  Tenth  Street, 
above  Market,  is  best  worthy  of  a  visit. 
In  front  of  this  market-house  is  a  statue 
of  FraukUn,  10  feet  high,  cut  in  free- 
stone. 

BuiDGES. — There  are  nine  bridges  in 
and  near  Phihidelphia.  The  following 
are  best  worthy  a  visit,  viz.  :  Iron  Bridge, 
across  the  .Schuylkill,  at  Chestnut  Street. 
It  was  commenced  September  19,  1861, 
and  completed  July,  186G,  and  is  the  first 
cast-iron  bridge  built  in  the  United  States. 
It  is  S'JO  feet  long,  42  feet  wide,  and  40 
feet  above  high  water.  It  is  1,200  tons, 
•weight,  and  cost  half  a  million  dollars. 
Fairmowit  Sicspension  Bridge  is  an  ele- 
gant structure,  built  (18-11)  by  Mr.  EUet, 
and  closely  resembling  the  Niagara  sus- 
pension bridge,  built  by  the  same  archi- 
tect ;  cost  $55,000.  The  Market  Street 
Bridge  is  of  wood,  resting  on  stone  piers. 
It  was  erected  in  1798,  and  cost  $300,000. 
A  third  bridge  is  in  contemplation  across 
the  Schuylkill  at  South  Street. 

Banks. — The  banking-houses  of  Phila- 
delphia are  conspicuous  rather  for  their 
solid,  substantial  appearance  than  for 
any  architectural  display.  Of  the  31 
banks  in  the  city,  the  following  are  best 
worthy  the  stranger's  notice : 

The  Bank  of  Pennsyhajiia,  on  Second 
Street,  south  of  Chestnut,  is  constructed 
of  Pennsylvania  marble,  and  has  two 
ornamental  porticoes.  It  was  commenced 
in  1799,  and  finished  in  1801.  The 
building  was  bought  by  the  Government 
for  the  purposes  of  the  Post-Olfice,  but 
never  used.  Immediately  opposite  is  an 
old  building,  once  occupied  by  Penn,  and 
known  as  the  "  Slate-lioof  House." 

The  Girard  Bank,  on  Third  Street,  be- 
lov^  Chestnut,  is  a  stately  edifice,  origi- 
nally built  for  the  first  United  States 
Bank  (1795-'98).  A  few  mementoes  of 
(jinird  are  here  preserved. 

The  Bank  of  North  America,  on  Chest- 
nut Street,  built  of  brown  stone,  n  the 
modern  Florentine  style,  is  worthy  of  no- 
tice as  ha^  ing  been  the  first  bank  estab- 
lished in  this  country,  December,  1781. 

The  I'hiladdpliia  Bank,  an  imposing 
granite  structure,  is  on  Chestnut  Street, 
between  Fourth  and  Fifth.  It  was  char- 
tered in  l8Ui.  This  edilice,  as  well  as 
that  of  the  Farmers  and  Mechanics^ 
Bank  adjoining,  arc  among  the  finest 
152 


banking-houses   in  the  city.     The  . 
National  Bank  is   a  solid  granite  s. 
ture,  just  completed,  on  Chestnut  St    :•' 
near  Third. 

A  week  well  employed  will  sufBc 
moderately  favorable  weather,  to   s 
the  visitor  the  principal  objects  of  h.'oi- 
est  in  and  around  Philadelphia,  thou  '    ;. 
fortnight  might  be  profitably  spent  ti  .ii;. 
To  those  desirous  of  "  doing  it,"  as  the 
phrase   goes,   in    the    shortest  pos.-    ' 
time,  the  street  cars  offer  the  chea} 
and,  all  things  considered,  the  most  e 
ditious  means.     For  a  complete  list   ( 
the  several  main  and  branch  roads  ;i    ' 
routes,  of  which  there  are  nearly  th  ■  i : 
under  the  control  of  nineteen  compar    ■, 
the  stranger  had  better  consult  the  <.'it 
Directory,  published  by  A.  McElroy,  and 
to  be  found  at  all  the  hotels.     As  thi'se 
routes  are  frequently  miles  in  length,   ::,'. 
are  laid,  in  many  cases,  through  the  prin- 
cipal throughfcires  and  streets,  the  ^^ary 
stranger  will   be  enabled  to  see  manj  of 
the  objects  described  in  these  pages,  w;.h 
out  so  much  as  moving  from  his  seat. 

Vicinity. — The  vicinity  of  Philadelphia 
abounds  in  pretty  romantic  spots,  and 
picturesque  drives  and  walks.  Laurel 
iilU  and  neighboring  cemeteries,  Girard 
College,  and  the  famous  water-work?  pt 
Fairmount,  have  already  been  descril'  i. 
After  visiting  Fairmount,  the  vis;  ■ 
should  extend  his  ride  up  the  Wissahic,:  r. 
Creek,  a  stream  remarkable  for  its  im- 
mantic  and  beautiful  scenery,  wh.ich  f  •  I- 
into  the  Schuylkill  about  five  miles  abovr 
the  city.  It  has  a  regular  success  .  n 
of  mill-dams,  which  in  the  a'tsrrcc  • 
amount  to  about  700  feet.  Its  ban  \  ■, 
for  the  most  part,  are  elevated  and  pr.- 
cipitous,  covered  with  a  dense  forest,  ; '  . 
diversified  by  moss-covered  rocks  of  ev  ;  y 
variety.  The  banks  of  the  beautitul 
Wissahickon  afford  one  of  the  most  le- 
lightful  drives  in  the  vicinity  of  Philaci  - 
phia.  The  route  is  via  Pidge  Avenue  i" 
Laurel  Llill,  and  thence  via  Wissahick  m 
road.  A  charming  trip  may  be  ra?ii 
from  Fairmount  by  steamer  up  the  Sclui 
kill  to  Mount  Pleasant,  Laurel  llill,  et 

The  scenery  along  the   shores  of  th 
Schuylkill  Piver  is  famous  for  its  vari  '1 
beauty.    Few  tourists  bcliold  its  "  slopi    : 
glens  and  silent  shades  "  without  admi... 
tiou: 


DELPHI  A.] 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


[PllILADELPIHA. 


scene  deli.ijhts — tlie  breeze  that  roves 
Alow  murmurs  through  the  siroves, 
sunlight  daucing  down  th.e  streaui, 
larting  through    the  trees   with  fainter 
gleam— 
T1).-e,  and  unnumbered  charms  alternate  rise 
.vake    sweet   musing,    and  to  feast  the 
oyes." 

Excursion-boats  every  hour  daily  during 
til'  --iramer  months. 

i  ;i    liaving    Fairmount  an    extensive 

view  of  the  west  front  of  the  city  is  pre- 

i,    embracing   the  Gas-works,    the 

nsion    Bridge,    Penitentiary,    and 

1   College,    and   several    handsome 

private  mansions,  among  which  are  Soli- 

!;;  '  •  Egglesfield,  Sweet  Brier,  more  fully 

d  in  our  brief  sketch  of  old  Phila- 

ia. 

'mtain  Gre&ii^  on  the  eastern  bank, 

ntil  late  years  a  rural  spot  of  much 

■y.     Nearly  opposite  to  this  are  seen 

the  niins  of  the  Lansdoicne  Manor-lioiine. 

old  relic,  built  by  John  Penn,  and 

sting  as  the  headquarters  of  Gen- 

'/ashiugton  daring  the  War  of  In- 

denee,  was  almost  entirely  destroy- 

fire  a  fev/  years  ago.     It  is  now  in 

I  ^       ands   of  a  land  company.     A   fine 

view  is  had  from  the  site.     The  boats  on 

ver  call  at  Mount  Pleasant  landing, 

3brd  opportunities  for  passengers  to 

s\:      he  neighborhood. 

■^  SchuijlJdU    Viaduct,  three    miles 
.vest   from  the    city,  is  980  feet  in 
.^.-_-.i,  and  is   crossed   by   the  Reading 
Mai/road. 

North  of  the  Reading  Bridge,  on  the  west 
shore,  stands  an  old  cottage,  said  to  have 
been  the  residence  at  one  time  of  the  poet 
Tom  Moore.  (See  Moore's  Cottage.) 
From  the  landing  at  Laurel  Hill  (four 
milts)  that  beautiful  ground  and  the  ad- 
joining cemeteries  on  Ridge  Avenue  are 
easily  accessible.  The  Falls  of  the  Sehnyl- 
kili  ( f  )ur  miles)  are  seen  to  advantage  from 
tht:  'loat. 

nayunk,  seven  miles  from  the  centre 
of  ti  i(-  city,  is  a  large  manufacturing  place. 
It  J  ■  de))ted  for  its  existence  to  the  water- 
p'j  created  by  the  impi'ovement  of 
the  ^(^huylkill,  which  serves  the  double 
|i'  e  of  rendering  the  stream  naviga- 
)■''  d  of  supplying  hydraulic  povi'cr  to 
t;.  merous  factories  of  the  village.  It 
hed  by  street  cars  on  Eidge  road, 
a.  as  by  the  boat  on  the  river,  and 


may  best  be  visited  in  connection  with  the 
cemeteries,  the  falls  on  the  Schuylkill, 
and  the  Wissahickon,  which  lie  between 
Mauayunk  and  the  city  on  the  same 
route. 

GcrmantOvm,  now  included  in  the 
twenty-second  w'ard  of  the  city,  was 
laid  out  in  1G84,  and  consists  mainly  of 
one  long  street.  It  is  six  miles  north 
from  Chestnut  Street,  and  may  be  reach- 
ed every  fifteen  minutes  by  city  railroad 
and  steam  cars.  The  street  car  route  lies 
up  Eighth  Street  and  Germantowu  road, 
and  terminating  at  Mount  Airy.  The 
battle  of  Germantowu  was  fought  October 
4,  1777.  A'Va.shington's  headquarters,  on 
Market  Square,  and  Button  Ball  Tree 
Tavern,  are  still  to  be  seen.  Here  are  line 
cricketing  and  base-ball  grounds.  C/iew^s 
House  is  a  noteworthy  object.  Many 
handsome  private  residences  ai^e  seen 
from  the  Germantowu  road^  Nicetoion, 
through  which  the  street  railway  passes, 
is  a  pleasant  rural  village,  inhabited  main- 
ly by  Germans  and  Sv/iss. 

Greenwich  Point,  about  three  miles 
below  the  city,  and  Gloucester  Point,  di- 
rectly opposite,  are  fiwodte  places  of 
resort  through  the  summer  season.  Ferry 
from  South  Street,  Philadelphia. 

Camelen,  New  Jersey,  opposite  Phil- 
adelphia, is  the  terminus  of  the  Cam- 
den and  Amhoy,  the  Camden  and  Allan- 
tic,  and  West  Jersey  (Cape  May)  Railways. 
It  was  incorporated  in  1831,  and  is  a 
place  of  considerable  trade  and  manufac- 
ture, and  has  a  population  of  nearly 
20,000.  Four  steam  ferry  lines  connect 
it  wdth  Philadelphia.  (See  Ferries.) 

Red  Bank,  on  the  Jersey  shore  of  the 
Delaware,  five  miles  below  Philadelphia, 
has  some  interesting  historical  associa- 
tions. Here  (at  Fort  fiercer)  a  battle  was 
fought,  October  22,  1777.  The  embank- 
ment and  trenches  of  the 'fort  are  still 
seen.  The  house  of  WkiteheiU,  the  Tory 
Quaker,  and  Comit  Donop's  grave,  arc 
both  pointed  out.  Opposite  Red  Bank, 
on  Great  Mud  Island,  is  Fort  Mifflin. 
Lying  between  Forts  Mercer  and  Millliu 
is  League  Island,  the  proposed  site  of  the 
new  Navy  Yard.  A  marble  monument, 
15  feet  high,  erected  October  22,  1829,  to 
commemorate  the  battle,  stands  within 
the  northern  line  of  the  fort. 

Chestnut  Hill  afibrds  a  pleasant  drive 

k)0 


PuiLADELrniA.] 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


[PniLADELPUIA. 


or  rkle.  It  is  within  the  corporate  limits, 
12  miles  north  of  the  State  House,  and 
can  be  readied  by  the  PhilacMphla,  Gcr- 
maniown^  and  Korrktown  R.  R.  The 
Hospital,  used  for  army  purposes  during 
the  late  war,  is  worth  visiting. 

Wldtemanfh  is  interesting  as  the  scene 
of  a  skirmish  following  the  battle  of  Ger- 
mantown,  and  as  the  headquarters  of 
Washington.  It  is  situate  1  in  a  beauti- 
ful Hitle  valley  north  of  Chestnut  Hill,  14 
miles  from  Philadelphia,  and  6  from  Ger- 
mantown. 

Norr'istown,  the  county  seat  of  Mont- 
gomery County,  is  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Schuylkill,  16  milts  from  Philadelphia.  It 
is  the  seat  of  justice  of  Montgomery 
County,  and  contains  a  fine  Court- House 
of  marble,  and  prison  l)nildln(/s.  The 
Schuylkill  is  here  spanned  by  two  bridges, 
which  connect  Norristown  with  Bridge- 
port. 

Westchester  is  a  beautiful  suburb  of 
Philadelphia,  finely  situated  on  elevated 
ground,  22  miles  west  of  the  city.  The 
Court-IIoHse  and  Military  Academy  are 
worthy  of  notice.  Peached  by  cars  almost 
hourly,  either  on  Westchester  and  Phila- 
delphia Railway,  via  Media,  or  on  the 
Central  Railway,  via  Paoli. 

After  visiting  the  more  important  pub- 
lic works  and  buildings  of  the  city,  and 
the  objects  and  points  of  interest  in  its 
vicinity,  a  stroll  in  the  Old  District,  or 
what  was  once  "  the  city  "  of  Philadel- 
phia, Avill  well  repay  the  stranger.  Among 
the  relics  of  the  past  still  left  undisturbed 
by  the  march  of  improvement,  are  the 
J'enn  Cottnye,  and  the  tSkdc- Roof  House. 
The  former  of  these  is  located  in  Letitia 
Street,  which  is  not  a  street,  but  a  nar- 
row, dingy  court  or  lane,  opening  out  from 
Market  Street,  between  First  and  Second. 
It  is  thought  to  have  been  the  first  brick 
building  erected  in  i'hiladelphia,  and  was 
the  residence  of  \ViIliam  Penn  during  his 
first  visit  to  the  city  (l(JS2-'83).  Since 
then  it  has  been  successively  occujiied  as 
a  tavern,  bakery,  and  cigar-store,  and  is 
now  used  as  a  lager-bier  saloon  and  Gast- 
haus  l)y  Adam  Pest,  whose  sign-board, 
embellished  with  a  foaming  tankard,  sur- 
mounts its  Innnble  doorway.  It  is  still  in 
a  good  state  of  preservation,  but  is  almost 
lost  to  view  in  the  maze  of  buihlings 
which  surround  it. 
ini 


The  Slate-Roof  House,  another  inter- 
esting old  landmark,  is  easily  reached 
from  the  Cottage  by  crossing  over  Chest- 
nut Street.  It  is  on  the  corner  of  Second 
and  Gothic  Street  (Norris  Alley),  and 
immediately  opposite  the  Old  Bank  of 
Pennsylvania.  The  year  of  its  erection  is 
uncertain.  William  Penn  and  his  family 
occupied  it  in  1700.  It  was  sold  to 
William  Trent,  the  founder  of  New  Jer- 
sey, in  1703.  In  it  John  Penn,  "  the 
American,"  was  born.  There  Generals 
Forbes  and  Charles  Lee  died.  It  was  also 
occupied  at  different  times  by  Adams, 
Hancock,  De  Kalb,  and  other  distin- 
guished men.  Arnold  also  occupied  it 
while  military  governor  of  the  city  in 
1778.  The  building  has  been  but  little 
altered  from  what  it  originally  was.  The 
corner  store  (131  South  Second  Street)  is 
now  occupied  by  a  dealer  in  gold  and 
silver.  The  whole  structure  is  to  be  re- 
moved, to  make  way  for  the  new  Corn 
Exchange.  Soon  not  a  relic  of  the  early 
days  of  Pennstown  will  be  left.  On  Third 
Street,  between  Willing's  Alley  and 
Spence  Street,  the  Washington  Hall  oc- 
cupies the  site  of  the  old  Bingham  man- 
sion. Penn's  country  residence  (palace) 
was  at  Pennsbury  Manor,  above  Bristol. 
Here  was  the  famous  Hall  of  Audience. 

Carpejitcr^s  Hall,  south  of  Chestnut 
Street,  below  Fourth,  should  be  visited. 
Here  assembled  the  first  Congress  of  the 
United  Colonies.  It  is  a  plain  brick 
building  of  two  stories,  surmounted  by  a 
cupola. 

The  Old  London  Coffce-House  (1702), 
Loxley's  House  (home  of  Lydia  Bar- 
rack), and  the  Indian  Quecji  Hotel,  where 
Jefferson  resided,  have  long  been  torn 
down. 

Hidtshcimer'^s  New  House,  where  Jef- 
ferson penned  the  Declaration  of  Inde- 
pendence, is  still  standing,  at  the  south- 
west corner  of  Market  and  Seventh 
Streets.  The  chamber  is  frequently  vis- 
ited, and  should  continue  to  be,  as  long 
as  it  stands. 

/Solitude,  once  the  country  residence  of 
John  Pemi,  is  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Schuylkill,  and  may  be  seen  not  far  from 
the  falls,  by  the  visitor  at  Fairmount.  It  is 
built  of  lough-cut  stone.  Says  a  late 
writer:  "  This  noted  abode  of  the  Penns 
is  fat^t  losing  its  interest  and  beauty.     A 


PniLADELPniA.] 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


[Philadelphia. 


few  years  more  and  it  will,  no  doubt,  be 
among  the  things  that  were."  Already 

"  The  shadows  of  departed  hours 
Kang  dim  upon  its  lonely  tiowers; 
Even  the  sunshine  seems  to  hrooii 
In  sadness  o'er  the  ruins  of  Solitude." 

The  Lebanon, — All  that  remains  ^^ 
this  once  famous  resort  may  be  seen  at 
the  southwest  corner  of  Tenth  and  Car- 
penter Streets. 

The  Grave  of  FranTdin  is  worthy  of 
notice.  It  is  at  the  southeast  corner  cf 
Arch  and  Fifth  Streets. 

The  Elm-Tree^  under  which  the  famous 
treaty  between  Penn  and  the  Indians  was 
made,  was  blown  down  in  1809.  A 
chair  made  from  the  wood  is  preserved  in 
the  collection  of  the  Historical  Library 
Association. 

Moore's  Cottage^  an  old  white  cottage 
building,  which  stands  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  Schuylkill,  above  the  Reading 
Railroad  bridge,  and  opposite  Peter's 
Island,  is  pointed  out  as  having  been 
once  the  residence  of  Tom  Moore  the 
poet,  and  the  spot  where  he  wrote  his 
poem — 

*'  Alone  by  the  Schuylkill  a  wanderer  roved, 
And  dear  were  the  flowery  banks  to  his  eye," 

This  is  traditionary,  however,  and  is 
doubted  by  many  early  settlers  and  local 
historians.  It  is  known  that  iloore  visit- 
ed Philadelphia;  but  that  he  had  any 
fixed  abode,  or  even  temporary  residence 
in  this  locaHty,  is  extremely  doubtful. 

Penn's  JRock,  a  mile-stone,  raised  by 
William  Penn,  and  bearing  his  coat-oi- 
arms,  is  still  standing  on  the  road  to 
Haddington.  On  this  rock,  tradition  says, 
"  Penn  and  his  wife  ate  their  dinners  " 
while  the  founder  of  the  city  was  engaged 
in  laying  out  the  Haverford  road. 

ISarti'saiBi,  the  elegant  country  seat 
of  Andrew  M.  Eastwick,  Esq.,  will  well 
repay  a  visit.  It  is  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  Schuylkill,  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  the  Eastwick  Skating  Park,  and  is 
easUy  reached  from  Gray's  Ferry  road  by 
the  Darby  car-line. 

The  Old  Bartr-am  mansion,  which  oc- 
cupies the  centre  of  the  present  grounds 
(garden)  was  built  by  John  Bartram  in 
1731.     It  is  in  good  preservation,   and 


affords  a  fine  specimen  of  the  prevailing 
style  of  country-house  architecture  at 
that  day.  It  is  of  stone,  and  occupies  an 
eminence  commanding  an  extended  view 
of  the  Schuylkill,  winding  to  its  juncture 
with  the  Delaware  at  League  Island. 
During  the  occupancy  of  Philadelphia  by 
the  British,  the  building  was  used  as 
headquarters  by  some  of  the  British 
officers,  and  thus  escaped  damage.  It  was 
a  favorite  resort  of  Washington,  and  was 
frequently  visited  by  Jefferson,  Franklin, 
and  other  distinguished  residents  and 
frequenters  of  the  city.  Here  resided 
William  Bai'trani,  son  of  the  oricinal 
proprietor,  and  distinguished  as  one  of 
the  leading  botanists  and  writers  on  bot- 
any and  ornithology  in  the  country. 
Here,  and  in  the  adjoining  garden,  Alex- 
ander Wilson  and  Thomas  Nuttall  pur- 
sued many  of  their  life-long  scientiGc  la- 
bors. NuttaWs  chamber,  in  the  mansion, 
is  still  pointed  out.  The  Botanic  Gen-den, 
adjoining,  is  the  pride  of  Bartram.  It 
was  pronounced  by  the  lamented  Dowel- 
ing •'  the  most  interesting  garden  in  Amer- 
ica to  every  lover  of  trees."  In  1815  it 
came  into  the  possession  of  late  Colonel 
Eobert  Carr,  who  served  in  the  war  of 
1812,  and  in  1850  it  was  purchased  by 
its  present  owner. 


MOITTE  I. 

FHILADELPniA    TO  PITTSBURG  AJfTD 
THE  WEST. 

(Via  Pennsylvania  Central  Raihcay.) 

Stations  . — Philadelphia  ;  WHiite- 
hall,  10  miles  ;  Paoli,  20;  Westchester 
Intersection,  22 ;  Oakland,  29  ;  Downing- 
ton,  S3  ;  Parkesburg,  44  ;  Christian,  49  ; 
Gap,  52  ;  Leaman  Place,  58  ;  Lancaster, 
69;  Dillerville,  70;  Landisville,  77; 
Mount  Joy,  82 ;  Columbia  Branch  Inter- 
section, 96  ;  Ilarrisburg,  106  ;  North  Cen- 
tral Ci'ossing,  113;  Duncannon,  121; 
Millerstown,  139;  Miffiui,  155;  Lewistcn, 
167;  Mount  Union,  192 ;  Ihmtirgdcn, 
204;  Petersburg,  210;  Tyrone,  224;  Al- 
toona,  238;  Gahitzin,  250;  Citsscn,  253; 
Wilmore,  2G3 ;  Ccnemaugh,  274;  Nine- 
veh, 286  ;  Lockport,  295  ;  Elairsville  In- 
tersection, 801;  Latrobe,  314;  Greens- 
burg,   324  ;    Penn  Station,  329  ;    Manor, 

155 


Whitehall.] 


PENNSYLVAXIA. 


[Lancaster. 


.331  ;  Turtle  Creek  342  ;  Brinton's,  343  ; 
rittsbur^r,  353. 

This  fine  line  constitutes  one  of  the 
great  highways  from  the  Atlantic  to  the 
Mississippi  States.  It  cxtcDds  355  miles 
from  the  city  of  Philadelphia,  through  the 
entire  length  of  Pennsylvania,  to  the  Ohio 
Kiver  at  i'ittshurg,  connecting  there  with 
routes  for  all  parts  of  the  Southwest, 
Vv\'st,  and  Northvrest.  Through  trains 
(15  hours  to  Pittsburg)  run,  morning, 
noon,  and  night,  Philadelphia  station, 
southeast  corner  of  Tlurtieth  and  Market 
Streets. 

^Vfiiitcla«ll  (10  miles).  Near  the 
station  is  Havcrford  Coller/e,  belonging 
to  an  association  of  Friends.  It  is  on 
the  left  of  the  road,  surrounded  by  an  ex- 
tensive lawn.  Near  by  is  the  birthplace 
of  Benjamin  West.  ViVa  Kova,  a  short 
distance  farther  on,  is  the  scat  of  a  Pio- 
man  Catholic  college. 

Paoli  (20  miles),  the  scene  of  an  action 
(September  20,  IVYV)  between  the  Amer- 
ican forces,  under  General  Wayne,  and  a 
detachment  of  British  troops,  under  Gray, 
better  known  as  the  Paoli  massacre.  A 
monument,  erected  September,  1817, 
marks  the  spot.  The  scenery  beyond 
Paoli,  through  the  limestone  valley  of 
Chester  County,  is  picturesque.  Chester 
is  fiimous  for  its  liighly-cultivated  farms 
and  extensive  dairies.  Two  miles  beyond 
Paoli  the  Westchester  Railway  intersects 
the  main  line. 

fi>o^viai9ig-foii  (33  miles),  on  the 
right  of  the  line,  is  a  pretty  rural  village, 
on  the  north  Ijranch  of  the  Brandywine 
Creek.  Chad's  Ford,  15  miles  distant, 
was  the  scene  of  the  engagement  known 
as  the  batfic  of  Brandy  nine.  The  Bir- 
ivivphiDn  Friends'  Media rf-honse,  where 
the  cdiiUiet  raged  hottest,  is  farther  up 
the  elreani.  The  road  crosses  the  west 
branch  of  the  Brandywine,  near  Coates- 
ville  (30  niihs),  on  a  bridge  850  feet  long 
and  75  feet  high. 

fl»;iE-Ii4»simr5;-  (44  miles),  in  Chester 
County,  cdiitains  several  large  machine- 
shops,  a  hotel,  and  a  population  of  (iOO. 

Passing  Penninrftoniulle,  three  miles 
beyond,  we  reach  C/trisfiana,  the  scene  of 
a  riot  in  1851.  Here  the  road  leaves  the 
Chester  valley,  which  it  has  traversed  its 
entire  hngth  of  20  miles,  and  enters  the 
Pequca  valley.  The  Gaj),  through  which 
156 


the  railway  passes,  is  well  worthy  of  no- 
tice. 

E^jiiacaster  (69  miles)  is  prettily 
situated  near  the  Conestoga  Creek,  which 
is  crossed  in  entering  the  city.  It  was 
incorporated  in  1818,  was  at  onetime  the 
principal,  inland  town  of  Pennsylvania, 
and  was  the  scat  of  the  State  Govci-n- 
ment  from  1799  to  1812.  In  population 
(19,000)  it  now  ranks  as  the  fifth  city  in 
the  State.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  in  the 
centre  of  a  rich  agricultural  region,  well 
built,  and  has  many  fine  edifices,  public 
and  private.  The  Court-House  is  an  im- 
posing edifice  in  the  Grecian  style  of  archi- 
tecture. Lancaster  is  the  seat  of  JfarshaU 
College,  organized  in  1853,  in  union  with 
the  old  establishment  of  Franklin  Col- 
lege, which  was  founded  in  1787.  Fulton 
Hall,  an  edifice  for  the  use  of  public  as- 
scmbl'ies,  is  a  noteworthy  structure,  as 
are  some  of  the  church  edifices.  The 
oldest  turnpike  road  in  the  United  States 
terminates  here,  62  miles  from  Philadel- 
phia. One  of  the  sources  of  prosperity 
of  Lancaster  is  in  the  navigation  of  the 
Conestoga,  in  a  series  of  nine  locks  and 
slack-water  pools,  18  miles  in  length  from 
the  town  of  Safe  Harbor  on  the  Susque- 
hanna, at  the  mouth  of  the  Conestoga 
Creek.  With  the  help  of  Tidewater 
Canal  to  Port  Deposit,  a  navigable  com- 
munication is  opened  to  Baltimore.  The 
EjiJirata  Springs  and  the  Moravian  17^- 
lage  of  Litiz  are  reached  from  Lancaster. 
Tlie  piincipal  hotels  are  JlichaePs  and 
the  Cit>/. 

Wheatland,  the  seat  of  ex-President 
James  Buchanan,  is  a  few  miles  from 
Lancaster. 

From  Dillerville,  one  mile  beyond  Lan- 
caster, a  branch  line  extends  to  Columbia, 
(See  CoM-MBiA.) 

MiddI<'towia  (97  miles),  at  tlie 
mouth  of  Swatara  Creek,  on  the  Susque- 
hanna Piivcr,  nine  miles  east  of  Ilarris- 
burg,  has  a  population  of  2,500.  The 
Union  Canal  terminates  here. 

BSarrisl>iti-g-. — Hotels — The  Lo- 
rA/c/ (formerly  Ilerr's),  on  Market  Street, 
is  the  leading  house;  Boitoa^s  (formerly 
the  Beuhler  House)  is  a  commodious, 
well-kept  liouse,  on  Market  Square ;  the 
Jones  House  is  also  a  ccntrally-loi'ated 
and  well-ordered  establishment*.  These 
houses  are  usually,  indeed  always,    well 


Harrisburc] 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


[DUNCANNON. 


filled  during  the  sessions  of  the  Legisla- 
tive Assembly,  and  strangers  visiting 
Ilarrisburg  at  these  times  should  order 
rooms  in  advance. 

llarj'isburg,  the  capital  of  Pennsylva- 
nia, is  beautifully  situated  upon  the  east 
bank  of  the  Susquehanna,  106  miles  from 
Philadelphia,  and  249  east  of  Pittsburg. 
It  was  laid  out  in  I'ZSS  by  John  Harris. 
Previous  to  that  date  it  was  known  as 
Lewiston,  and  still  earlier  as  Harris's 
Ferry.  It  was  made  a  town  in  1791,  and 
incorporated  into  a  city,  with  six  wards, 
March  19,  1860. 

The  State-House  occupies  a  picturesque 
and  commanding  position  upon  a  natural 
eminence,  a  little  north  of  the  centre  of 
the  city ;  and  from  its  dome  a  fine  view 
is  obtained  of  the  wide  and  winding 
river,  its  beautiful  islands,  its  bridges, 
and  the  adjacent  ranges  of  the  Kitta- 
tinny  Mountains. 

Adjoining  the  State-House,  or  capitol 
building,  are  two  brick  edifices,  the  one 
on  the  right  being  occupied  as  the  Land, 
the  other  as  the  State  Department.  The 
Arsenal  building  stands  south  of  the 
former  edifice.  Among  the  other  promi- 
nent buildings  are  the  Covrt-Hoicse^ 
and  the  Old  and  New  School  Presbyteri- 
an churches.  The  former  is  a  handsome 
edifice  of  stone,  fronting  on  the  Capitol 
Square.  The  Court-House  is  a  stately 
brick  edifice,  surmounted  by  a  dome,  and 
stands  on  Market  Street,  opposite  the 
Lochiel  House.  Front  Street  is  a  hand- 
some, wide  avenue,  overlooking  the  Sus- 
quehanna, and  affords  the  most  attractive 
promenade  in  the  city.  Here  are  many  of 
the  finest  residences  in  the  city.  Harris 
Park,  at  the  intersection  of  Front  Street 
and  Washington  Avenue,  is  usually  visit- 
ed by  strangers.  Harris's  grave  and  tree 
occupy  the  centre  of  the  enclosure.  Fa- 
cing it  is  the  Harris  mansion,  now  owned 
and  occupied  by  Hon.  Simon  Cameron, 
ex-Secretary  of  War.  The  extensive  roll- 
ing-mill and  works  of  the  Lochiel  Iron 
Company,  near  the  town,  are  worth  visit- 


mg. 


From  Harrisburg  diverge  the  following 
railways :  Cumberland  Vallej/  Iiaihvai/  to 
Carlisle  (18  miles);  Chambersburg  (52 
miles),  Harjerstown,  Md.  (74  ii'iles).  This 
road  is  replete  with  interest  growing  out 
of  the  rebel  raids  during  the  late  war. 


From  Newville,  on  this  line,  stages  run 
to  the  Sulphur  Springs. 

The  Lebanon  Valley  Lailway  (branch 
of  Fhiladelphia  and  Beading  Railroad) 
to  Lebanon  (26  miles),  and  Eeading  (54 
miles),  and  tlie  Northern  Centred  liail- 
way  south  to  Baltimore,  Md.,  and  north 
to  Elmira  and  Canandaigua,  N.  Y.  Pas- 
sengers for  Gettysburg  can  either  take 
the  Cumberland  Vedley  line  (52  miles)  to 
Chambersburg,  and  thence  by  stage,  or 
the  Northern  Central  to  Heinovcr  Junc- 
tion (39  miles),  and  thence  by  rail  (-30 
miles)  to  the  battle-field.  The  latter  ia 
the  most  expeditious  and  generally  trav- 
elled route.  There  is  a  detention  of  one 
hour  at  Hanover  Junction  on  llie  morn- 
ing train  from  Harrisburg.  Two  days 
will  suffice  to  m.ake  this  trip  comfortably. 
(See    Gettysburg.) 

Leaving  Harrisburg,  and  pursuing  the 
main  line  vrestvvard,  we  cross  the  Sbis- 
quehanna  on  a  bridge  3,670  feet  long. 
The  view  obtained  of  •  Bridgeport  from 
the  centre  of  the  bridge  is  one  of  the 
finest  on  the  line.  The  State  Lvn.atio 
Asylum  occupies  a  prominent  locale 
on  an  eminence  to  the  right.  Two  m^iles 
south  of  Bridgeport  is  Neic  Cicmberlarul^ 
the  residence  of  Governor  Geary.  The 
Cove  Mountalyi  and  Peter'' s  Monniain  are 
seen  near  Cove  Station,  10  miles  wxst  of 
Harrisburg. 

l>MH«*s?iiiioii  (121  miles)  is  the 
point  of  departure  for  the  Juniata  valley. 
(See  Juniata.) 

Our  route  now  follows  the  banks  of 
the  Juniata  for  about  100  miles  to  the 
eastern  base  of  the  Alleghanies,  the  cana» 
keeping  the  road  and  river  company  most 
of  the  way. 

Ne"^vpoi*t  (134  miles)  is  located  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Little  Bufialo  Creek 
with  the  Juniata.  Five  -miles  farther  on 
is  Millerstown,  near  the  confines  of  Perry 
County.  The  passage  of  the  Juniata 
through  the  Great  Tuscarora  Mountain, 
one  mile  west  of  this  station,  is  worthy 
of  notice. 

From  the  point  of  Law's  Ridge,  along 
the  face  of  which  the  line  runs  west  of 
PerrysviJle,    a   fine   view  of  Mifflin,  the 
county  town  of  Juniata,  is  to  be  obtained. 

Four  miles  west  of  Mifflin  the  road 
enters  the  Long  Narrows,  and  soon  after 
reaches  Lewisiown^  the  outlet  of  the  val- 

157 


TuE  Juniata.] 


PEXXSYLYANIA. 


[Altoona. 


Icy  of  KlshicoquUlas,  once  the  camping- 
ground  of  Locran,  tlie  Indian  chief. 

I^c-vvisto-wia  (13  miles  west  of 
Willlin)  is  the  best  point  from  which  to 
vi>it  the  Juniata.  The  National  Hotel 
has  good  accommodation.  Drives  and 
lishing  in  the  neighborhood. 

'I'iie  .iruuiatu. — This  beautiful 
river,  whose  course  is  closely  followed  so 
many  miles  by  the  Pennsylvania  Central 
Railroad  and  Canal,  rises  in  the  south 
central  part  of  the  Keystone  State,  and, 
flowing  eastward,  falls  into  the  Susque- 
hanna about  14  miles  above  Harrisburg. 
The  landscape  of  the  Juniata  is  in  the 
highest  degree  picturesque,  and  many 
romantic  summer  haunts  will  be  found 
among  its  valleys ;  though  at  present 
very  little  tarry  is  made  in  the  region, 
from  its  attractions  being  little  known, 
and  the  comforts  of  the  traveller  being 
as  yet  but  inadequately  provided  for. 
The  mountain  background,  as  we  look 
continually  across  the  river  from  the  cars, 
is  often  strikingly  bold  and  beautiful. 
The  Little  Juniata,  which  with  the  Franks- 
town  branch  forms  the  main  river,  is  a 
stream  of  wild,  romantic  beauty.  The  en- 
tire length  of  the  Juniata,  including  its 
branches,  is  estimated  at  nearly  150 
miles,  and  its  entire  course  is  through  a 
region  of  mountains  in  which  iron  ore  is 
abundant,  and  of  fertile  limestone  val- 
leys. The  Ilaystown  Branch,  which  rises 
in  the  southwest  part  of  Bedford  County, 
enters  the  Juniata  near  Huntingdon. 

Mount  Union  Station  (192  miles)  is  at 
the  entrance  of  the  gap  of  Jack's  Moun- 
tain. Three  miles  beyond  is  the  famous 
Sidlinff  Jlill^  and  still  west  the  Broad  Top 
Mountain.  The  latter  is  reached  by  rail, 
2t)  niilrs  fi'om  Huntingdon. 

II  It  n  t  i  11  ;•-  d.  o  it  (204  miles) — 
Ex-i-luuvjc  Hotel — is  a  place  of  some  an- 
tiquity, having  been  laid  out  previous  to 
the  Kev(jluti()n.  H  was  named  after  the 
Countess  of  Huntingdon.  This  is  an- 
other good  point  from  which  to  see  the 
beauties  of  the  Juniata.  The  Huntingdon 
and  Jiroad  Top  Rnihraij  to  Mount  Dallas 
(14  niiles)  joins  llie  main  line  here.  From 
Mount  Dallas  to  JJedford  Springs  by 
Bta^'e,  six  miles.  (See  Hkukokd  SruiNGS.) 

At  l*i'(<'i*^.l»iirju>;-,  six  miles  west  of 
Huntingdon,  the  railroad  paits  comjjany 
with    tlic   canal,   and   follows  the  Little 
158 


Juniata,  which  it  again  leaves  at  Tyrone 
City. 

'JTyrosic  City  ( Ward  House)^  at 
the  mouth  of  Little  Bald  Eagle  Creek,  is 
famous  for  its  manufactures  of  iron.  The 
line  here  enters  Tuckahoe  Valley^  noted 
for  its  iron  ore.  A  branch  (Bald  Eagle) 
road  extends  81  miles  to  Williamsport. 
The  Tyrone  and  Clearfield  branch  also 
extends  24  miles  to  Phillipsburg. 

Altoona,  llY  miles  east  of  Pitts- 
burg, at  the  head  of  Tuckahoe  valley, 
and  at  the  foot  of  the  AUeghanies,  is  im- 
portant to  every  traveller,  as  the  best 
point  at  which  to  make  a  short  stay,  as 
well  for  refreshment  as  for  observation. 
The  Logan  House  has  complete  accommo- 
dation for  500  guests.  The  workshops 
of  the  railway  company  are  worth  visit- 
In  1856  it  contained  but  one  log 


mg. 


house.  A  branch  road  extends  eight  miles 
to  HoUidai/sburg,  whence  stages  run  to 
Bedford  Springs,  27  miles.  (See  Bedford 
Springs.) 

At  Altoona  the  western-bound  traveller 
commences  the  ascent  of  the  AUeghanies. 
In  the  course  of  the  next  1 1  miles  some 
of  the  finest  views  and  the  greatest  feats 
of  engineering  skill  on  the  entii'e  line  are 
to  be  seen.  Passing  through  the  great 
tunnel,  3,670  feet  long,  we  reach  GaUifzin, 
named  after  Prince  Gallitzin  a  noble  Rus- 
sian, who  settled  at  Bosetta,  Cambria 
County,  in  1789,  and  shortly  after  com- 
mence the  descent  of  the  western  slope 
of  tha  mountain.  Here  the  Concmaugh 
comes  frequently  in  sight  in  its  rapid 
course  to  the  Stony  Creek  at  Johnsto\Aii. 

Passing  C'r<sson  Station  (see  Cresson 
Springs),  less  than  an  hour  brings  us  to 
the  stone  viaduct  over  the  Concmaugh  at 
the  Horseshoe  Bend,  and  immediately  be- 
yond to  the  Concmaugh  Station,  the 
western  terminus  of  the  mountain  division 
of  the  road. 

•SoliiD^tO'ivn,  three  miles  west  of 
Conen)augh,  connnands  some  attractive 
scenery.  The  Cambria  Iron- Works,  seen 
to  the  right  of  the  road,  are  among  the 
most  extensive  in  the  country.  We  are 
now  ncaring  the  point  where  we  shall  take 
leave  of  the  Concmaugh,  after  following 
its  course  fifty  miles  from  the  slope  of 
the  AUeghanies. 

One  mile  east  of  BlairsviUe  Tniersedion 
is  a  cutting  in  the  Fack-Saddle  3Iountain 


Pittsburg.] 


PENNSYLVANIA, 


[Pittsburg. 


worthy  the  tourist's  attention.  From 
this  point  a  brancli  road  leads  northward 
to  Blairsville,  three  miies,  and  India?ia, 
19  miles. 

Greensburg,  824  miles  from  Philadel- 
phia and  31  from  Pittsburg,  is  the  county 
seat  of  Westmoreland  County,  and  a 
thriving  trading-point.  Lines  of  stages 
connect  it  with  neighboi'ing  towns  in 
PenriSylvania  and  Maryland,  In  the  yard 
of  the  Presbyterian  church,  seen  as  you 
enter  the  town,  is  a  monument  to  Major- 
General  Arthur  St.  Clair,  a  Biitish  officer 
in  charge  cf  Fort  Legonier  at  the  close  of 
the  French  Vv'^ar. 

Pcnn  Station  and  Jfanor,  a  short  dis- 
tance wTst  of  Greensburg,  are  interesting 
as  having  formed  part  of  the  Penn  estate. 

Twelve  miles  from  Pittsburg  the  road 
crosses  Turtle  Creek,  at  a  place  called 
Brinio7i's.  Here  the  Connellsville  branch 
joins  the  main  line.  BraddocA-'' s  Field^ 
the  battle-ground  on  which  General  Brad- 
dock  was  defeated  by  the  French  and 
Indians  (July  9,  I'Zoo),  is  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, nine  miles  from  Pittsburg.  The 
point  where  Braddock's  army  crossed 
the  river  in  their  march  on  Fort  Du 
Quesne  is  seen  to  the  left  of  the  line  wTSt 
of  Brinton's,  East  Lihertri,  five  miles  from 
I'ittsburg,  is  a  thriving  suburb,  contain- 
ing some  fine  residences,  and  affording  a 
delightful  drive  to  and  from  the  city. 
The  capacious  edifice  of  the  ]'/c'stern 
Pennsylvania  Hospital,  erected  in  1860, 
at  Dixmount,  is  seen  in  approaching  the 
city  on  the  Pittsburg,  Port  Wayne  and 
Chicago  Railroad. 

l®ittsl>iirg'.  — Hotels,  the  Monon- 
gahela    House,    Union  Depot    Hotel,    St. 
Charles,  and  Merchants'  Hotel. 

Pittsburg  is  upon  the  Ohio  River,  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Alleghany  and  the 
Monongahela.  It  is  situated  in  a  district 
extremely  rich  in  mineral  wealth,  and  the 
enterprise  of  the  people  has  been  directed 
to  the  dcTelopment  of  its  resources,  with 
an  energy  and  success  seldom  paralleled. 
The  city  of  Pittsburg  also  enjoys,  from  its 
situation,  admirable  commercial  facilities, 
and  has  become  the  centre  of  an  exten- 
sive commerce  with  the  Western  States  ; 
while  its  vicinity ,  to  inexhaustible  iron 
and  coal  mines  has  raised  it  to  great 
and  merited  distinction  as  a  manufac- 
turing place.     The  revenue  tax  paid  on 


the  manufactures  of  Pittsburg  for  the 
year  ending  June  30,  18GG,  amounted  to 
$2,480,310,  representing  a  capital  of  up- 
ward of  two  hundred  millions  of  dollars. 

The  city  was  laid  out  in  1765,  on  the  site 
of  Fort  Du  Quesne,  subsequently  changed 
to  Fort  Pitt,  in  honor  of  England's  prime 
ministei",  William  Pitt,  The  city  charter 
was  granted  in  1816.  Pittsburg  is  con- 
nected with  the  left  bank  of  the  Monon- 
gahela by  a  bridge  1,500  feet  long,  which 
was  erected  at  a  cost  of  |102,000.  Four 
excellent  bridges  cross  the  Alleghany 
River,  connecting  I'ittsburg  Avith  Alle- 
ghany City.  It  is  usual  to  speak  of  exten- 
sive manufactories  as  being  in  Pittsbm-g, 
though  they  are  not  within  the  limits  of 
the  city  proper,  but  are  distributed  over  a 
circle  of  five  miles'  radius  from  the  Court- 
House  on  Grant's  Hill.  This  space  in- 
cludes the  cities  of  Pittsburg  and  Al- 
leghany, the  boroughs  of  Birmingham  and 
Lawrenceville,  and  a  number  of  towns 
and  villages,  the  manufactui^ing  establish- 
ments in  which  have  their  warehouses 
in  I'ittsburg,  and  may  consequently  be 
deemed,  from  the  close  connection  of  their 
general  interests  and  business  operations, 
a  part  of  the  city.  The  stranger  in  Pitts- 
burg will  derive  both  pleasure  and  in- 
struction by  a  visit  to  some  of  its  great 
manufacturing  establishments,  particu- 
larly those  of  glass  and  iron.  The  city 
proper  has  a  population  of  65,000,  and 
including  its  suburban  towns,  which  are 
now  (1867)  incorporated  with  it,  the 
number  will  fall  little  short  of  180,000. 
The  city  is  divided  into  ten  wards,  and 
contains  160  streets  and  upward  of 
100  courts  and  alleys.  It  contains  136 
church  edifices,  among  which  are  several 
of  large  size,  surmounted  by  lofty  spires. 
The  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of  St. 
Paul,  at  the  corner  of  Fifth  and  Grant 
Streets,  is  an  imposing  edifice  of  brick, 
with  a  fine  tower.  The  First  Baptist 
Church,  recently  finished,  is  also  a  ht;nd- 
some  structure.  The  Court-House,  facing 
the  cathedial,  is  a  solid  stone  edifice, 
surmounted  by  a  dome.  The  Custom- 
Honse  and  Post-office  is  a  commodious 
stone  building,  and  there  are  several 
large  and  substantial  public  school- 
houses.  But  the  iron-rolling  mills,  oil- 
refineries,  and  other  extensive  manufac- 
tories   in    the    vicinity,    constitute    the 

159 


Pittsburg.] 


TEXXSYLYAXIA. 


[Valley  Forge. 


absorbing   interest  and   most  character- 
i.stic  icature  of  the  town.     In  the  vicinity 
of  the  fity  proper  there  are  four  ceme- 
teries.    They  are  named  and  located  a? 
follows,  viz. ':  AUcghani/  Ccmderii,  adjoin- 
ing Lawrcnceville ;   SL  Marifs  Cemetery, 
on  C.recnsburg  Pike  ;  Hilldcde  Cemeienj, 
adjoining    Alleghany    City ;    and  Mount 
Union  Cemeferij,    adjoining   Manchester, 
in  McClure  township.     Lewis  Street  cars 
connect  the  city  proper  with  all  objects 
worth  visiting  in  the  suburbs.     Pittsburg 
has    direct   railway  communication  with 
the   principal    cities   east   and   west   by 
means    of    the    Pennsylvania    Central  : 
PULfhurrj^     Columbus,  and    Cincinnati  ; 
Pilt.'^bur;/,  Fort  \Vayne,  and  Chicago  Pail- 
ways,  and  with   Lake  Erie  by  the  Piiis- 
hnrrf    and    Cleveland   road.      The    Alle- 
ghany Valley  Railway  to  Kittanning  (44 
miles);  and  Mahoning (55  miles),  and  the 
PiU-fhurg  and    Connellsville   Pailway   to 
Connellsville  (57   miles),  and  to  Union- 
town  (72  miles),  also  diverge  here.    Boats 
daily  up  and  down  the  Ohio  River  during 
the  season  of  navigation.     Thei'e  are  sev- 
eral places  in  the  vicinity  of  Pittsburg 
which,  as  they  maybe  considered  parts  of 
one  great  manufacturing  and  comiuercial 
city,  are  entitled  to  notice  here.  Alleghany 
City,  opposite  to  Pittsburg,  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Alleghany  River,  is  the  most 
iiiijjortant   of  tliem.      The   elegant   resi- 
dences of  many  persons  doing  business 
in   Pittsburg  may  l)e  seen  here,  occupy- 
ii^g  co-nimanding  situations.     It  contains 
111   streets   and   41    courts  and   alleys. 
Here  is  located  the  Western  llieologiccd 
iSnninary  of  the  Presbyterian  Church,  an 
institution   fcninded  by  the  General   As- 
eciubly  in   1825,  and  established  in  tiiis 
town  in  1827.     Situated  on  a  lofty,  insu- 
lated ridge.  100  feet  above  the  Alleghany, 
it  atlbrds  a  magnilicent  prospect.      The 
Iheol'tgical   Seminary  of  the  Associated 
Jicformcd   Church,  established    in  1820, 
and  the   Alleghany  theological  Instilute, 
organized  in   1S40  by  the  Synod  of  the 
Pa'formcd  Presbyterian  Church,  are  also 
located  hero.     Tlio  U'^.s/zm  l\nitentiary 
is  an   ininiense   building,  in  tlic   ancient 
Norman  style,  fitualed  on  a  plain  on  the 
western  honler  of  Alle.;!iany  City.  It  was 
completed  in  1827,  at  a  cost  of  .^18:J,0(i0. 
Tlie  United  States  Arsenal  is  located  at 
Lawrcnceville,  a  small  l)ut  pretty  village 
100 


two  and  a  half  m.iles  above  Pittsburg,  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Alleghany  River. 

Birmingham  is  another  considerable 
suburb  of  Pittsburg,  lying  about  a  mile 
from  the  centre  of  the  city,  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Monongahela,  and  connected 
with  Pittsburg  by  a  bridge,  1,500  feet 
long,  and  by  a  ferry.  It  has  important 
manufactories  of  glass  and  iron. 

3fanchester  is  two  miles  below  Pitts- 
burg, on  the  Ohio.  Here  is  located  the 
House  of  Refuge,  incorporated  in  1850. 
The  Passionvit  Monastery  is  near  here. 
The  United  Slates  Marin.c  Hosjntal  is  yet 
below. 


nOUTE  II. 

PniLADELPHIA    TO    BE  A  7)7X0,    I7AR- 
E7SBUEG,  A]S^D  POTI'SVILLE. 

{Via  Philadelphia  and  Reading  Railway.) 

Passenger  Station. — Broad,  corner  of 
Callowhill  Street. 

This  road  runs  through  the  valley  of 
the  Schuylkill,  a  distance  of  58  miles  to 
Reading,  and  thence  35  miles  to  Potts- 
ville,  and  connects  the  great  anthracite 
coal-fields  with  tidewater.  (See  Reading.) 
It  was  opened  in  1842,  and  has  cost  up- 
ward of  $10,000,000.  It  has  several  tun- 
nels and  numerous  fine  bridges. 

Stations. — Manayunk,  8  miles  ;  Con- 
shohocken,  14 ;  Xorristown,  17  ;  Port 
Kennedy,  22  ;  Valley  Forge,  24  ;  Phoeuix- 
viUe,  28;  Rover's  Bridge," 32  ;  Pottstown, 
40  ;  Douglasville,  45  ;  Reading,  58  ; 
Leesport,  66  ;  Mohrsville,  09  ;  Hamburg, 
75  ;  Port  Clinton,  78  ;  Auburn,  83  ;  Or- 
wigsburg,  86 ;  Schuylkill  Haven,  89 ; 
Pottsville,  93. 

In  leaving  the  city  by  this  line,  the 
fine  stone  bridge  over  tlie  Schuylkill  is 
crossed  in  full  view  of  Laurel  Hill  and 
other  objects  of  interest  already  noticed 
in  our  sketches  of  the  vicinity  of  Phila- 
delphia. 

Valley  Forge  (23  miles)  is  memorable 
as  the  headquarters  of  (Jeneral  Washing- 
ton during  the  winter  of  1777.  The 
building  he  occupied  is  still  standing  near 
the  railroad,  whence  it  can  be  seen. 

Pott  tovn  (40  miles)  is  prettily  situated 
on  the  Kit  bank  of  the  Schuylkill.  It  was 
incorporated  in  1815,  and  has  a  popula- 


POTTSYILLE.] 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


[The  Susquehanxa. 


lion  of  3,000.  The  houses,  which  are 
built  principally  upon  one  broad  street, 
are  surrounded  by  fine  gardens  and  ele- 
gant shade-trees.  The  scenery  of  the 
surrounding  hills  is  very  fine,  CvSpecially  in 
the  fall  of  the  year,  when  tlie  foliage  is 
tinged  with  a  variety  of  rich  autumnal 
tints.  The  Beading  Railroad  passes 
through  one  of  its  streets,  and  crosses 
the  Manatawny  on  a  lattice  bridge,  l^Oll 
feet  in  length. 

lEe£34iiE£g-,  the  third  city  of  the 
State  hi  population  and  commerce,  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  a  plain  which 
rises  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Schuylkill, 
58  miles  by  rail  from  Philadelphia.  It 
was  laid  out  by  Thomas  and  Richard 
Penn  in  1748,  and  was  incorporated  in 
1847.  It  is  compactly  built,  and  contains 
some  handsome  public  buildings,  among 
which  the  Couri-Hoiise  is  the  most  promi- 
nent. Its  present  population  is  25,000. 
The  road  hence  to  Harrisburg  (54  miles) 
13  known  as  the  Lebanon  Valley  Railway. 
Reading  has  connection  eastward,  via  Al- 
lenton  and  Easton  {East  Penn&ylvama 
Raihvaij)  with  Central  and  Northern  New 
Jersey  and  New  York.  The  Reading 
and  Colunthia  Railway  (46  miles  long) 
runs  through  the  rich  farming  region  of 
Berks  and  Lancaster,  past  Ephrata  and 
Litiz  Springs. 

Fort  Clinion^  78  miles  from  Philadel- 
phia, on  the  Reading  Railroad,  is  a  pleas- 
ant place,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Little 
Schuylkill.  This  is  the  point  of  junction 
with  the  LiUle  Schuylkill  and  C'cUaivissa 
roads. 

Anhurn  (83  miles),  via  Tamaqua  (20 
miles)  to  WilUamsport  (120  miles) 

Schuylhill  Haven  (89  miles ),  on  the 
banks  of  the  Schuylkill,  is  m  the  midst  of 
a  very  interesting  landscape  region.  The 
Mine  Hill  branch  road  (distance  24  miltSj 
comes  in  here  from  the  great  coal  dis- 
trict. 

l^ottsviSIe^  the  terminus  of  the 
Philadelphia  and  Reading  route,  is  93 
miles  from  Philadelphia.  It  is  upon  the 
edge  of  the  great  coal  basin,  in  the  gap 
by  which  the  Schuylkill  breaks  through 
Sharp's  Mountain.  The  yield  of  the 
Schuylkill  coal-field  in  1863  was  up- 
ward"" of  33,000,000  tons.  This  enor- 
mous product  annually  reaches  market 
through  the  Reading  and  Schuylkill  Navi- 


gation Companies'  lines.  The  city,  com- 
menced in  1825,  has  already  a  population 
of  12,000.  The  Cathedral  and  Town  Hall 
are  worthy  of  notice.  At  Pottsville  we 
complete  the  detour  northward  into  the 
coal  region  from  the  main  line  of  tiavel 
over  this  road,  and  now  return  to  Read- 
ing on  our  route  to  Harrisburg. 

TEE    SUSQUEHANNA  AND  ITS  VICIN- 
AGE. 

The  Susquehanna  is  the  largest  and 
most  beautiful  of  the  rivers  of  Penn- 
sylvania, traversing  as  it  does  its  entire 
breadth  from  north  to  south,  and  in 
its  most  interesting  and  most  importont 
regions.  It  lies  about  midway  between 
the  centre  and  the  eastern  boundary 
of  the  State,  and  fiotf &  in  a  zigzag  course, 
now  soutlieast  fand  now  southwest,  and 
so  on  over  and  o^er,  following  very  jnuch 
the  windings  of  the  DelaM^are,  vrhich 
separates  the  State  from  New  Jersey. 
The  Pennsyhania  Canal  accompanies  it 
throughout  its  course  from  Wyoming  on 
the  north  to  the  Chesapeake  Bay  on 
the  south.  All  the  great  railroads  inter- 
sect or  approach  its  waters  at  some  point 
or  other,  and  the  richest  coal-lands  of  the 
State  lie  contiguous  to  its  banks.  The 
Susquehanna,  in  its  main  branch,  rises  in 
Otsego  Lake,  in  the  east  central  part  of 
New  York,  and  pursues  a  very  tortuoua 
but  generally  southwest  course.  This 
main,  or  North,  or  East  Branch,  as  it  is 
severally  called,  when  it  reaches  the  cen- 
tral part  of  Pennsylvania — after  a  course 
of  250  miles — is  joined  at  Northumber- 
land by  the  West  Branch,  200  miles  long, 
which  flows  from  the  declivities  of  the 
Alleghanies.  The  course  of  this  arm  of 
the  river  is  nearly  eastward,  and,  like  the 
North  Branch,  through  a  country  abound- 
ing with  coal  and  other  valuable  products. 
It  is  also  followed  by  a  canal  for  more 
than  a  hundred  miles  up.  The  route  of 
the  New  York  and  Erie  Railway  is  upon 
or  near  the  banks  of  the  north  branch  of 
the  Susquehanna  in  southern  New  York, 
and  occasionally  across  the  Pennsylvania 
line  for  50  miles,  first  touching  the  liver 
near  the  Cascade  Bridge,  nearly  200  miles 
from  New  York,  passing  the  cities  of 
Binghamton  and  Owego,  and  finally  los- 
ing sight  of  it  just  beyond  Barton,  250 
miles  from,  the  metropolis. 

161 


Northumberland.] 


PEXXSYLYAXIA. 


[Erie. 


Lebanon^  86  miles  from  Philadelphia 
and  26  miles  east  of  narrisburg,  is 
pleasantly  situated  in  a  fertile  limestone 
valley,  and  is  a  place  of  considerable 
manufacture.  A  branch  road  to  the  Corn- 
wall ore  banks  intersects  the  main  line 
here.  ■ 

lliia*risll>nrg-  (see  Route  I.)  Con- 
nection is  made  at  Harrisburg  northward 
with  the  FhUadel.phia  and  Erie  Railroad^ 
which  affords  the  most  direct  route  to 
Erie  and  the  great  lakes. 


MOUTE  III. 

PniLADELPniA    TO    WILLTAMSPORT. 
ERIE,  AN^D    THE   OIL  REGIOXS. 

{Via  Philadelphia  and  Erie  Railway.) 

Stations. — Sunbury,  163  miles  from 
Philadelphia;  Catawissa  Junction,  175; 
Milton,  176;  Williamsport,  203;  Lock 
Haven,  228 ;  Renovo,  255  ;  St.  Mary's, 
323  ;  Sheffield,  371 ;  Warren,  385  ;  Corry, 
413;  Erie,  451. 

Sunbury  is  a  pleasantly  located  town 
on  the  east  bank  of  the  Susquehanna,  56 
miles  north  of  Harrisburg,  (See  Susque- 
hanna.) 

r^'^oj-tlaiim'berlain.d.  —  The  west 
branch  of  the  Susquehanna  unites  two 
miles  above  Sunbury  with  the  main  or 
north  arm ;  and  the  village,  the  plcasant- 
est  of  all  the  region  round,  is  built  upon 
the  point  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the 
two  waters.  The  quiet,  cultivated  air  of 
Northumberland,  and  its  excellent  hotel 
{Central)  y;\\\  attract  the  not  over-hurried 
traveller. 

A  pleasant  detour  may  be  made  from 
this  point  over  the  Lackaivamia  a7id 
liloomsburg  Jiailway  to  the  Wyoming 
valley.  (Sec  Wilkesbarre.) 

C:it:&'\vi<<sais  on  this  line,  20  miles 
from  Northumberland.  It  is  connected 
also  by  railway  with  the  coal  district  of 
Mauch  Chunk.  The  scenery  of  this  vicin- 
ity is  of  gi-cat  variety  and  beauty.  From 
the  hill-tops — for  Catawissa  is  encom- 
passed by  j)icturesque  hills — remarkable 
pictures  of  the  winding  of  the  river,  and 
its  ever-present  companion,  the  canal,  are 
to   be   seen;  now  at  the   base  of  grand 


mural  precipices,  and  anon  through  little 
verdant  intervales.  The  Susquehanna  is  a 
well-kept  house. 

IVil  liasa  s  p  ort  (203  miles) 
is  the  principal  town  upon  the  west 
branch  of  the  Susquehanna  Rirer.  It 
is  the  capital  of  Lycoming  County, 
and  contains  some  fine  buildings.  It 
is  a  pleasant  place,  delightfully  situated, 
and  much  in  vogue  as  a  summer  re- 
sort. The  west  branch  canal  passes  here; 
and  hei'e,  too,  the  railway  routes  from 
Philadelphia  and  from  Niagara  Falls  {via 
Elmira,  N.  Y.)  meet.  The  river  land- 
scape betweenVv'illiamsport  and  Northum- 
berland presents  in  its  long  extent  many 
charming  passages.     Population,  11,000. 

Lock  Haven^  the  capital  of  Clinton 
County,  is  at  the  mouth  of  Bald  Eagle 
Creek,  121  miles  north  of  Harrisburg. 

Irvineton  (300  miles).  Branch  road, 
via  Tionesta  and  Oleopoiis  to  Oil  City, 
the  centre  of  the  great  oil  region  of 
Pennsvlvania. 

Cori'y  (413  miles  from  Philadelphia, 
and  37  miles  southeast  of  Eric)  is  im- 
portant to  the  traveller  mainly  as  being 
the  point  of  departure  on  this  line  for  the 
oil  region.  Meadville  is  distant  38  miles. 
(See  Atlantic  and  Great  Western  Rail- 
road.) Titusville  is  27  miles,  and  Shaf- 
fer, the  terminus  of  the  Oil  Creek  JRail- 
wai/,  34  miles  distant.  Beyond  Titusville 
connection  is  made  with  the  Farmers^ 
Railroad  to  Petroleum  Centre  and  Oil 
City,  the  terminus  of  the  Franklin  branch 
of  the  Atlantic  and  Great  Wester 7i  Rail- 
way. It  has  a  population  of  4,000,  and 
is  growing  rapidly.  J1o\q\  ih.e.  Empire 
Ilonse. 

Erie,  the  northern  terminus  of  the 
route  from  Philadelpliia,  is  advantageous- 
ly situated  on  Lake  Erie,  451  miles  from 
Phil  jdeli)hia,  and  90  miles  southwest  of 
Buffalo.  The  harbor,  one  of  the  best  on 
the  lake,  is  3^-  miles  long  and  over  one 
mile  wide. 

Prcsqne  Isle,  opposite  the  town,  is  four 
miles  long  and  one  mile  wide.  The  city 
contains  a  Con 7't- House,  a  good  hotel, 
and  several  handsome  church  edifices. 
The  Erie  and  Pittsburg  Railway  connects 
it  with  Pitti;burg,  148  miles.  It  was  in- 
corporated m  1805.     Population,  11,500. 


1G2 


L  Creek.] 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


[Petroleum. 


TEE  OIL  EEOIOK 

The  oil  region  of  Pennsylvania  is  well 
arthy  a  visit  from  the  traveller,  illus- 
iting  as  it  does  one  of  the  most  impor- 
at  as  well  as  unique  industrial  features 
the  Keystone  State.     The  most  cele- 

■  ated  oil-wells,  as  yet  discovered  and 
lerated  on  the  American  continent,  are 
3atcd  in  the  western  part  of  Pennsyl- 
nia,  principally  in  Venango,  Crawford, 

..:  d  Warren  Counties.     The  wells  next  of 
•.'>te  are  found  in  Western  Virginia  and 
.   istern  Ohio  ;  while  others  yet  more  re- 
nt ly  opened  in  the  States  of  New  York, 
jntucky,  Tennessee,  and  Michigan,  and 
Upper  Canada,  are  now  attracting  at- 
ation. 

OiYCreeA",  which  has  become  celebrated 
the  site  of  the  richest  oil-producing 
gion  of  the  continent  at  the  present  day, 
a  tortuous  mountain-stream,  taking  its 
>e  in  the  northern  part  of  the  State  of 
'  onnsylvania,  near  the  south  line  of  Erie 
)unty,  and,  with  its  tributaries,  Avaters 
awford  and  Warren  Counties,  and  after 
course  of  about  thirty  miles  through 
'    ese  counties,   empties   into   the    Alle- 
_  any  River,  seven  miles  above  the  town 
iy'i  Franklin.     The  valley  through  which 
('»J  Creek  takes  its  course  is  narrow,  and 
■i-nked  on  each  side  by  high  and  rugged 
lis,  on  the  top  of  which  are  broad  fields 
excellent  farming  land.     The  scenery 
'.  .i  Oil  Creek  at  one  time,  no  doubt,  was 
•idte  picturesque  ;  but  now  the  bottom- 
ads  are  dotted  with  tall  derricks,  wood- 
■     engine-houses,  and  iron  smoke-stacks, 
<hA.  of  which  columns  of   black  smoke 
"11  upward   to  the  clouds.     The  pines 
...id  hemlock  are  cleared  from  the  moun- 
.   in-sides,  and  all  is  busy  life. 

Petroleum,  under  the  name  of  "  Seneca 

•I" — so  called  from  the  tribe  of  Indians 

that  name  who    once    inhabited   the 

untry — became  early  of   great   impor- 

■  nee  to  the  settlers,  both  as  a  medicine 
.".id  for  burning  and  lubricating  pur- 
• .  .)ses.  The  greater  portion  of  the  oil  was 
•:')tained  from  two  natural  springs.     One 

these  was  in  the  immediate  neighbor- 
'^  )od  of  Titusville,  on  the  lands  now 
"vvned  by  the  "  Watson  Petroleum  Com- 
■■  -ny  "  of  New  York,  on  the  spot  where 
'.  >w  stands  the  old  "Drake  Well."  The 
her  spring  was  on  the  farm  of  Hamilton 


McClintock,  within  four  miles  of  the  mouth 
of  Oil  Creek.  During  the  year  1853,  Dr. 
F.  B.  Brewer,  of  the  firm  ol  Brewer, 
Watson,  &  Co.,  conceived  the  idea  ot 
collecting  surface-oil  by  means  of  absorb- 
ing it  in  blankets,  and  wringing  the  oil 
out.  Great  quantities  were  collected  in 
this  novel  manner,  and  used  for  burning 
purposes  in  the  lumber-mills  of  the  Oil 
Creek  region.  The  o.l  produced  from 
the  oil  springs  became  so  necessary  and 
useful  as  to  suggest  the  foi-mation  of  an 
oil  company,  in  1854,  called  the  "Penn- 
sylvania Eock-Oil  Company."  This  was 
the  first  oil  company  ever  formed.  This 
was  prior  to  the  sinkmg  of  any  well,  or 
before  such  a  thing  was  suggested.  Al- 
though Professor  Silliman,  of  New  Haven, 
had  in  1854  analyzed  the  rock-oil,  and 
pronounced  upon  its  properties,  no  fur- 
ther developments  of  any  importance 
took  place  until  the  winter  of  1857, 
when  Colonel  E.  L.  Drake,  of  Connecticut, 
arrived  at  Titusville.  He  was  the  first 
man  who  attempted  to  bore  for  oil.  He 
was  obliged  to  go  50  miles  to  a  machine- 
shop  every  time  his  tools  needed  repair- 
ing; but  after  many  delays  and  accidents, 
on  the  29th  day  of  August,  1859,  at  the 
depth  of  69  feet  6  inches,  he  struck  a 
vein  of  oil,  from  which  he  afterward 
pumped  at  the  rate  of  35  to  40  barrels 
per  day.  This  is  now  known  as  the 
"Drake  Well."  It  was  the  first  well 
ever  sunk  for  oil,  and  yielded  the  first 
petroleum  ever  obtained  by  boring.  One 
experiment  followed  another  in  rapid  suc- 
cession, until  the  diflerent  farms  on  Oil 
Creek  became  centres  for  oil  operations. 
The  Barnsdell,  Mead,  Rouse,  and  Crosley 
wells  were  opened  in  1860.  In  1861  nu- 
merous wells  were  sunk  in  the  since  fa- 
mous localities  known  as  the  "  Mclll- 
heny,"  "McClintock,"  "  Tarr,"  and 
"  Buchanan  "  farms.  The  Empire  and 
the  Sherman  Wells  Avere  opened  in  1862, 
and  the  Dclameter  Well  in  the  following 
year.  Perhaps  the  only  adequate  idea  of 
the  extent  of  the  oil  operations  in  the 
Venango  County  region  is  to  be  obtained 
from  the  amount  produced  and  shipped 
thence.  The  exports  from  the  oil  region 
have  been  as  follows  :  In  1861,  27,812 
barrels;  in  1862,  168,000  barrels  ;  1863, 
706,267  barrels;  1864,776,205  barrels; 
and  in  1865,  from  January  1st  to  Novem- 

163 


Meadtille.] 


PENNSYLYAXIA. 


[Oil  City. 


ber  11th,  543,019  barrels,  or  a  total  of 
nearly  2,250,000  barrels  in  five  years. 
Three-fourths  of  this  large  yield  have  been 
transported  over  the  line  of  the  Atlantic 
and  Great  Wester }i  Railway,  which  was 
conspleted  into  the  oil  re^^ion  in  18GB. 

Routes, — The  railway  routes  leading 
from  the  Atlantic  seaboard  to  the  oil  re- 
gion are  the  Philadelphia  and  Erie  Rail- 
way^ from  Philadelphia  via  Ilarrisburg  to 
Coi'ry  (413  miles),  and  the  Atlantic  and 
Great  Western  Railway,  from  Kew  York 
via  Salamanca  (414  miles)  to  Corry  (475 
miles)  and  iieadville  (517  miles).  From 
Cincinnati  the  route  is  by  the  Atlantic 
and  Great  Western  to  the  same  points ; 
and  from  Pittsburg  a  road  is  now  partial- 
ly completed,  which  will  greatly  shorten 
the  distance  from  that  city. 

I?leadTiiie,  on  the  Atlantic  and 
Great  Western  Railway,  103  miles  west 
of  Salamanca,  and  517  miles  from  New 
York,  is  a  flourishing  city,  and  the  centre 
of  a  large  trade  with  the  oil  region.  It 
is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  west  of  the 
Alleghanies.  It  lies  on  the  west  bank  of 
French  Creek,  at  one  time  called  Venango 
River.  It  is  the  seat  of  Alleghany  Col- 
lege, founded  in  1816,  and  of  the  Western 
Theological  /Seminary,  founded  in  1844. 
Among  the  more  prominent  edifices  are 
several  churches,  a  State  arsenal,  andean 
academy.  The  I'^ranklin  and  Oil  City 
Branch  road  to  Reno  and  Oil  City,  36 
miles,  comes  in  here.  The  McIIenry 
House  is  tlie  leading  hotel,  and  is  well  kept. 

From  Meadville,  where  close  connec- 
tions are  made  witli  the  through  express 
trains  on  the  main  line,  passengers  to  the 
oil  region  will  reach  Franklin  in  an  hour 
and  a  half.  The  road  lies  doAvn  the  east 
bank  of  French  Creek. 

l'^a*SE5sliliii  (28  nnles),  the  county 
seat  of  Venango  County,  occupies  the  site 
of  Fort  Franklin,  at  the  confluence  of 
French  Creek  with  the  AUegliany  River. 
The  town  was  laid  out  in  17'.)5,  and  is 
substantially  built  on  high  land.  Popu- 
laiion  nearly  6,U00.  The  Exchange  is  the 
principal  hotel. 

SS.euo  (33  miles),  on  the  Alleghany 
River,  has  obtained  great  prominence  in 
connection  with  the  oil  business  of  this 
region.  Here  large  quantities  of  oil  are 
received,  and  shipped  by  river  and  rail. 
The  view  of  the  river  at  this  point  pre- 
164 


seuts  a  characteristic  phase  of  life  in  the 
oil  region.  The  trains  usually  stop  long 
enough  to  afibrd  a  good  view  of  the  town 
and  river  from  the  train. 

Oil  City  (36  miles),  the  centre  and 
chief  city  of  the  oil  region,  is  on  the  Al- 
Ie;ghany  River,  at  the  terminus  of  the 
Franklin  branch  of  the  Atlantic  and  Great 
Western  Railway,  56  miles  from  Warren, 
Dn  the  Rhiladelphia  and  Eric  Railway. 
Oil  Creek,  which  here  enters  the  Allegha- 
ny, and  is.  spanned  by  a  bridge,  will  af- 
ford the  visitor,  in  a  few  short  rambles, 
perhaps  the  best  opportunity  of  witnessing 
the  varied  operations  of  obtaining,  refin- 
ing, barrelling,  shipping,  and  generally 
manipulating  the  precious  petroleum.  It 
is  not  perhaps  the  most  attractive  place 
to  pursue  his  researches — being  a  sort  of 
epitomized  edition  of  Virginia  City,  Pitts- 
burg, and  New  Bedford  in  one  volume — 
but  he  must  not  be  discouraged  at  the 
smoky,  oily  aspect  and  odor  of  every 
thing  and  everybody  about  him,  but  start 
on  his  search  for  the  curious  with  the 
ardor  of  a  true  petroleumite,  and  with  a 
stomach  well  fortified  from  the  best  hotel 
the  "  city  "  affords  (the  Jones  Hoibse),  and 
he  will  see  much  to  interest,  instruct,  and 
may  be  to  astonish  him. 

Oil  Creek,  so  called,  is  as  old  as  the  In- 
dian traditions  extend,  and  derives  its 
name  from  a  spring  from  which  large 
quantities  of  bituminous  oil  were  obtained 
— the  Indians  valuing  it  highly.  It  is 
now  claimed  that  when,  by  treaty,  the 
Seneca  nation  sold  the  western  part  of 
the  State,  they  made  a  reservation  around 
this  spring  of  one  mile  square.  For 
about  a  mile  above  Oil  City,  on  the  light- 
hand  side  of  the  stream,  the  bank  rises 
in  an  abrupt  bluff,  at  the  loot  of  which  a 
very  substantial  road  has  been  construct- 
ed. The  city  is  built  on  the  flats  that 
run  along  the  base  of  the  high  blufis,  and 
has  but  one  street.  Directly  across  the 
creek,  on  Cottage  Hill,  have  been  erected 
fine  cottages.  Population  1 0,000.  The 
Fithole  and  Oil  City  Railroad  is  now  com- 
pleted, and  connects  with  the  Atlantic 
and  Gnat  Westcr7i  Road  at  this  point. 
From  I'ilhole  eastward  it  conne-(.:ts,  via 
Oleopolis,  Tideoute,  and  Irvineton,  with 
the  Fhiladeljjhia  and  Erie  Raihvay,  un- 
der the  name  of  the  WaiTcn  and  Frank- 
lin Railway.  (See  WAniiEN.) 


TiTUSTILLE.] 


PENNSYJ.VANTA. 


After  seeing  all  that  can  be  seen  in  and 
around  Oil  City,  the  traveUer  may  either 
proceed  to  Pithole  or  continue  by  aslsort 
line,  known  as  the  Farina's^  Ilailroad., 
via  McCHntoek,  Eouseville,  Eynd,  Tarr, 
and  Storey  Farms,  to  Petroleum  Centre. 
Tlie  latter  place  is  a  flourishing  young 
town  on  Oil  Creek,  eight  miles  north  of 
Oil  City,  and  a  point  of  considerable  and 
mcreasing  importance.  The  wells  in  the 
vicinity  are  very  numerous,  and  many  of 
them  worth  visiting.  From  Petroleum 
Centre  the  railway  is  continued  up  the 
west  bank  of  Oil  Creek,  through  the  oil- 
eries  at  Funkville,  Foster's,  Shaffer,  and 
Miller,  to  Titusville.  From  Kouseville  a 
branch  road  extends  to  Humboldt. 

l^ititSTllIe,  28  miles  east  of  Mead- 
ville,  and  2.1  miles  south  of  Corry,  by  the 
Oil  Creek  road,  is  in  Crawford  County. 
It  is  one  of  the  most  important  towns  in 
the  oil  region,  and  contains  three  banks 
ana  several  churches  and  hotels.  Of 
tlie  last-named  institutions,  the  Criitoi- 
dcn  and  Bush  are  the  best.  This  is 
another  good  point  from  which  to  visit 
the  oil  wells  and  refineries  which  abound 
on  the  creek,  both  above  and  below  the 
town.  Population  (estimated),  10,000. 
Tryonville  and  Spartanshurg  are  stations 
on  the  Oil  Creek  Kailway,  between  Titus- 
ville and  Corry.  The  entire  length  of 
raihvay  m  the  oil  region  over  which  our 
route  has  lain,  connecting  Meadville  with 
Corry,  is  80  miles. 

CorE'y,  the  northern  terminus  of  the 
Oil  Creek  liailway,  is  situated  at  the  in- 
tersection of  the  Pliiladelplda  and  Erie 
liailway  with  the  Atlantic  and  Great 
Western  Railway.^  ol  miles  southeast  of 
Erie,  27  miles  west  of  Jamestown,  N.  Y., 
and  42  miles  east  of  Meadville.  It  is  an 
important  point  for  forwarding  oil  and 
receiving  merchandise  and  machinery  for 
the  oil  regions.  The  Dovmer  Oil  Refin- 
ing Works.,  containing  iron  tanks  v>'hich 
hold  10,000  barrels  of  oil,  are  worth 
seeing.  In  1860  the  site  of  Corry  v/as  a 
forest,  not  a  house  to  be  seen.  Now  there 
are  three  churches,  a  number  of  hotels, 
and  4,000  inhabitants.  The  Empire  is  a 
good  house. 

It^^EH'i'esi  is  on  Conewaugo  Creek, 
at  its  confluence  Avith  the  Alleghany 
River,  and  on  the  Fliiladclphia  and  Erie 
Railuiay^  385  miles  from  the  former,  and 


[Cethleiiem. 

6G  miles  from  the  latter  city.  Route  tq 
the  Oil  Regions,  via  Irvineton.  Popula- 
tion (estimated),  2,500. 


MOUTE  IV. 

PITT  LADE  LPniA  TO  DOYLESTO  Wm 
BETHLEHEM,  EAETOl^,  ALLEN  TOWN', 
MA  UCII  CHUNK,  AND  WHITE  HA  VEN. 

( Via  North  Pennsylrania  and  LeMghValley 
liaihcays.) 


Stations. — Fisher's  Lane,  4  miles ; 
Green  Lane,  5  ;  Old  York  Road,  1 ;  Fort 
Washington,  14  ;  Wissahiekon,  15  ;  Gwyn- 
nedd,  18 ;  North  Wales,  20 ;  Lonsdale, 
22  ;  Lower  Lexington,  25  ;  Doylestown, 
32  ;  EatQeld,  25  ;  S'ellersville,  32 ';  Quaker- 
tov,'n,  38  ;  Coopersburg,  44  ;  Centre  Val- 
ley, 46  ;  Hellertown,  50;  Bethlehem,  54; 
Allcntov/n,  17  from  Fasten;  Catasauqua, 
20;  Ilokendauqua,  21;  Whitehall,  24; 
Lchighton,  42  ;  Mauch  Chunk,  46  ;  Qua- 
kake  Junction,  73  ;  Delano,  77;  Mahanoy 
City,  81 ;  Shenandoah,  84  ;  Centraha,  93  ; 
Mount  Carmel,  97  ;  Beaver  Meadow,  C6  ; 
Jeansville,  69 ;  Rockport,  61 ;  Eickoi'y 
Run,  66  ;  White  Haven,  71. 

This  furnishes  the  most  speedy  and 
pleasant  route  to  V/ilkesbarre,  the  Wyo- 
ming valley,  and  adjacent  summer  resorts. 
Leaving  the  depot,  corner  of  Third  and 
Thompson  Streets,  the  road  reaches  the 
northern  limits  of  the  city,  v>hich  it 
crosses  one  mile  east  of  the  Old  York 
road.  Passing  Fort  Washington  and  the 
Wissahiekon  (see  Philadelphia  and  Vi- 
cinity), we  reach  the  Welsh  settlements 
of  Finllyn  and  Gtvyncdd.  The  tunnel, 
near  the  latter  place,  is  vvorthy  of  noiice. 
It  is  one  of  the  most  extensive  and  costly 
works  on  the  whole  line.  A  single  mile 
cost  over  .$300,000. 

Zandsdale  (22  miles),  in  Montgomery 
County,  has  a  good  hotel.  Branch  10 
miles  to  Poylestoicn,  the  county  scat  of 
Bucks  county.  Twelve  miles  beyond 
Landsdale  we  reach  Landis  Ridge,  which 
divides  the  waters  of  the  Schuylkill  and 
Delaware  Rivers;  From  the  summit,  one 
mile  west  of  the  station,  a,  fine  view  of 
Limestone  Valley  and  Quakertownis  ob- 
tained. 

Hellertovju  (50  miles)  has  extensive 
iron  and  zinc  mines   occupving  the  sites 

165 


Easton.] 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


[The  Susquehanna. 


of  the  old  Jloravian  farms.  An  extend- 
ed view  of  the  hills  skirting  the  Lehigh 
valley  is  obtained  in  this  vicinity.  Set- 
tled in  1&56.     Population,  6,0U0.' 

13  <- 1  la  i  c  2i  e  lai,  upon  the  Lehigh 
River,  54  miles  from  Philadelphia,  and  87 
miles  from  New  York,  is  a  deligiitful  place 
to  make  a  short  stay  C7i,  route.  It  is  the 
principal  seat  of  the  United  Brethren,  or 
Moravians,  in  the  United  States,  and  was 
originally  settled  under  Count  Zinzen- 
dorf  in  1'741.  The  village  contains  a 
stone  church,  142  feet  long  and  68  leet 
wide,  and  capable  of  seating  2,000  per- 
sons. It  is  famous  for  its  schools  and 
institutions  of  learning.  The  Moravian 
Bois'  School  stands  near  the  church.  It 
has  also  a  Moravian  Female  Seminary^ 
of  high  repute,  founded  in  1788.  Bethle- 
hem has  several  good  hotels.  The  Sun^ 
established  in  1808,  is  one  of  the  best 
kept  in  the  State,  with  ample  accommo- 
dation for  pleasure  travel. 

Bouih  Bethlehem^  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  river,  is  the  seat  of  Lcliigh  Uni- 
versity^ handsomely  endov.ed  by  Judge 
Packer.  The  buildings,  now  in  course  of 
erection,  occupy  a  commanding  and  at- 
tractive site,  and  when  complete  will  add 
much  to  the  appearance  of  the  town. 
The  zinc  works  in  South  Bethlehem  are 
worthy  of  a  visit.  Nazareth^  another 
pretty  Moravian  village,  is  situated  10 
miles  north  from  Bethlehem  and  7  miles 
northwest  from  Easton.  At  Bethlehem 
the  Leldyh  Valley  Ikiilvay  from  Easton 
joins  the  North  Feunsyivania  Railroad^ 
and  continues  on  to  White  Haven. 

Ems^oia,  GU  miles  from  Philadelphia 
and  75  irom  New  York,  is  finely  situated 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Lehigh  Kiver  and 
the  Bushkill  Creek  with  the  Delaware. 
A  eliaiii  bridge,  erected  at  a  cost  of 
^05,(100,  connects  it  with  South  Easton. 
ll  is  the  seat  of  Lafayette  CoZ/ty*?,  founded 
in  1832.  The  cemetery  here  will  repay  a 
visit.  The  town  was  laid  out  in  17^8, 
and  incorporated  in  1789.  Population, 
12,000. 

Allentov:n  (59  miles)  is  built  on  high 
ground,  near  tlie  Ltliigh  liiver,  at  the 
junction  of  Jordan  and  Little  Lehiuh 
Ciccks.  Ihe  mmeral  springs  here  are 
higldy  prized  by  those  who  have  tried  the 
eflicacy  of  ti.cir  wat^-rs.  A  visit  to  "  Big 
liOtk,"  1,000  feet  in  elevation,  a  short 
166 


distance  from  the  village,  will  amply  re- 
pay the  touiist.  Connection  is  made  v.'ith 
the  East  Pennsylvahia  JxaV.road.,  36 
miles  to  Readius:.  The  American  is  the 
leading  hotel.  Half  an  hour's  ride  from 
Allentown  brings  us  to  the  neighborhood 
of  extensive  slate  quarries.  An  excellent 
quality  of  slate  is  here  being  worked.  A 
railroad  to  the  mines  is  in  process  of 
construction  from  Bethlehem. 

Mauch  Chunk  is  in  the  midst  of  the 
great  Pennsylvania  coal  regions,  88  miles 
from  Philadelphia  and  loO  miles  from 
Harrisburg.  It  is  upon  the  Lehigh,  in  one 
of  its  wildest  and  most  romantic  passages. 
The  Mansion  is  the  best  hotel.  Mount 
Piigah.  a  short  distance  north,  rises 
1,000  feet  above  the  river.  A  raihvay 
has  been  constructed,  nine  miles,  to  Sum- 
rait  Hill,  down  which  the  coal-laden  cars 
come  by  the  force  of  tlieir  own  gravity. 
We  are  here  in  the  vicinage  of  the  beau- 
tilul  scenery  of  the  Susquehanna  River. 
The  JSayle  Hotel,  at  the  summit,  has  fair 
accomm.odation  for  strangers. 

Quakake. — Branch  road  to  Catawissa 
and  Wilhamsport.  The  ride  up  the  Lehigh 
from  Maueh  Chunk  is  a  very  enjoyable 
one,  combining  many  novel  and  sin- 
gular features.  At  White  Haven  the 
Beaver  Meadow  and  Lehigh  and  Siisqnc- 
hanna  Redlivays  intersect,  and  by  the  lat- 
ter the  traveller  will  proceed  on  20  miles 
to  ^^'ilke^larro. 

The  entire  length  of  the  Susquehanna 
is  about  500  miles,  and  the  country  which 
it  traverses  is  of  every  aspect,  from  the 
quiet  vale  or  cultivated  farm  to  the  wild- 
est humors  of  the  stern  mountain  pass. 
The  region  most  sought,  and  deservedly 
so,  by  the  tourist  in  quest  of  landscape 
beauties,  is  that  around  and  below  the 
valley  of  Wyoming.  From  this  point 
down  many  miles  to  Northumberland, 
where  the  West  Branch  comes  in,  the 
scenery  is  everywhere  strikingly  fine  ;  but 
the  best  and  boldest  mountain  passes  ex- 
tend from  five  to  ten  miles  below  the 
southern  outlet  of  Wyoming,  around 
Nanlicoke  and  Shickshinney.  This  is  the 
region  /;ar  cxccUincc  for  the  study  of  the 
artist.  Portions,  also,  of  the  West  Branch 
— though  not  yet  very  much  visited — 
are  remarkably  fine.  Wilkesbarre  is 
the  best  point  from  which  to  visit  the 
diflerent  sights  of  the  Wyoming  valley. 


WiLKESBARRE.] 


PEx\NSYLVANIA. 


[Nanticokk. 


It  is  on  the  Zacl'dwanna  and  Bhom slur g 
Railway,  17  miles  frcm  Scrantonand  133 
miles  Irom  Philadelphia  by  the  inclined 
plane,  and  143  by  the  new  ''  back  track" 
route. 

"%Vyoiiii2ig  TsaSSey.  —  This  ro- 
mantic valley,  so  replete  with  historic 
association  and  classic  interest,  is  situated 
along  the  Susquehanna  River,  in  the 
northeastern  part  of  Pennsylvania,  It  is 
about  three  miles  wide  and  twenty-five 
long,  and  is  formed  by  two  parallel 
ranges  of  mountains,  extending  from  the 
northeast  to  the  southwest.  The  average 
height  of  the  eastern  range  is  about 
1,000  feet;  that  of  the  western  about 
800.  The  Susquehanna  enters  the  valley 
through  Lackauannoch  Gap,  and  after  a 
serpentine  course  of  20  miles  leaves  it 
through  Nanticoke  Gap.  The  Nanticolce 
Falls  are  near  that  Gap.  The  valley 
abounds  in  romantic  scenery  and  pleas- 
ant drives.  Near  its  centre  are  the 
Wyoming  Falls.  Ancient  fortifications 
are  also  frequently  found.  It  is  a  classic 
spot,  round  which  centres  an  interest  as 
abiding  as  it  is  melancholy. 

The  route  from  New  York  is  by  the 
New  Jersey  Central  Railway  to  Hampton 
Junction  (59  miles) ;  thence  by  the  Bela- 
ware,  Lackawanna,  and  Western  (83  miles) 
to  Scranton  ;  and  thence  by  the  Lackawan- 
na, ariel  Bloomshurg  Raihoay  (17  miles) 
to  Kingston,  opposite  Vs'ilkesbarre,  which 
is  the  headquarters  of  the  valley  dis- 
ti'ict. 

The  route  from  Philadelphia  is  by  the 
North  Pennsylvania  Railway  to  Beth- 
lehem, and  thence  by  the  Lehigh  Valley 
and  Lehigh  and  Susquehanna  Railways 
to  Wilkesbarre.  The  Wyoming  Valley 
Lloiel  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  State,  with 
ample  accomm.odation  for  250  guests. 

'ivill£esl>ssi're, — The  town,  which 
is  reached  by  stage,  one  mile  from  the 
railway  depot,  is  regularly  laid  oif  in 
wide,  well-shaded  streets,  with  a  public 
square  and  Court-House  near  the  cen- 
tre. It  contains  several  handsome  church, 
edifices,  and  a  population  of  about  7,000. 
Among  its  principal  attractions  for  tour- 
ists are  Prospect  Reek,  wliieh  commands 
a  fine  view  of  the  valley,  Battle  Monument, 
Harvey'' s  L.ake,  etc. 

Thus  sings  Halleck  of  the  Wyoming 
valley : 


"  When  life  was  in  its  bud  and  blossominsr, 
And    waters    gushing    from    the    fountain 

"  spring 
Of   pure    enthusiast    thought,   dimmed    my 

yoiuig  ejcs, 
As  by  the  i)oet  borne  on  unseen  wing, 
1    breathed    in    fancy  'neath    thy    cloudless 

sides 
The    summer's    air,   and    heard    her  echoed 

harmonies.'" 

The  pen  of  Campbell  and  the  pencil  of 
Turner  have  taken  their  loftiest  and  most 
unbridled  flights  in  praise  of  Wyoming, 
and  though  they  have  changed,  they  have 
not  flattered  its  beauties, 

"  Nature    hath   made    thee   lovelier  than  the 
power 
Even  of  Campbell's  pen  hath  pictured." 

Again,  Halleck  says  of  the  mythical 
Gertrude,  the  fair  Spirit  of  Wyoming, 
and  of  the  real  maidens  of  the  land  : 

"  But  Gertrude,  in  her  loveliness  and  bloom, 
Ilath  many  a  model  here  ;  for  woman's  eye 
In  court  or  cottage,  whereso'er  her  home, 
Hath  a  heart- spell  too  holy  and  too  high 
To  be  o'erpraiscd,  even  by  her  worshii^f  er — 
Poesy  I " 

The  terrible  Battle  of  Wyomiiig,  which 
has  been  so  often  the  theme  of  the  pencil 
and  the  pen,  occurred  July  3,  1778. 
Few  of  the  iil-fated  people  escaped.  Pris- 
soners  were  grouped  around  large  stones, 
and  were  murdered  with  the  tomahawk, 
amid  yells  and  incantations  of  fiendish  tri- 
umph. One  of  these  stones  of  inhuman 
sacrifice  may  yet  be  seen  in  the  valley.  It 
is  called  Queen  Rsther''s  Rock,  and  lies 
near  the  old  river  bank,  some  three  miles 
above  Fort  Forty.  The  village  of  Wilkes- 
barre was  burned  at  this  time,  and  its  in- 
habitants were  either  killed,  taken  pris- 
oners, or  scattered  in  the  surrounding 
forests. 

The  site  of  Fori  Forty  is  across  the 
river  from  Wilkesbarre,  past  the  opposite 
village  of  Kingston,  and  nearly  west  of 
Troy,  four  miles  and  a  half  distant.  At 
this  spot,  where  the  slain  were  buried, 
there  now  stands  a  monument  commem- 
orative of  the  great  disaster.  It  is  an 
obelisk  62^  feet  high,  made  of  granite 
blocks  hewn  in  the  neighborhood.  The 
names  of  those  who  fell  and  of  those  who 
were  in  the  battle  and  survived,  are  en- 
graved upon  marble  tablets  set  in  the 
base  of  the  monument.  This  praiseworthy 

167 


Columbia.] 


PEXXSYLYANIA. 


[Carlisle. 


work  was  done  by  the  exertions  of  the 
ladies  of  Wyoming?. 

Nanticoke  and  West  Nanticoke  are  lit- 
tle coal-villages  at  the  southern  extremity 
of  the  AVyoming  valley,  eight  miles  by 
rail  from  Wilkesbarre,  where,  as  we  have 
already  intimated,  occur  some  of  the 
boldest  passages  of  the  scenery  of  the 
Susquehanna,  A  beautiful  view  of  Wyo- 
ming is  seen  looking  northward  from  the 
hills  on  the  east  side  of  the  river  near 
Kanticoke;  and  the  scenes  below,  from 
the  banks  of  the  river  and  the  canal,  are 
most  varied  and  delightful.  The  coal- 
mines of  this  neighborhood  may  easily  be 
penetrated,  and  with  ample  remuneration 
for  the  venture. 

Jessvp's  is  a  very  cosy,  lone  inn,  upon 
the  west  shore,  two  or  three  miles  below 
Nanticoke,  from  whence  are  seen  striking; 
pictures  of  the  river  and  its  bold  moun- 
tain banks  both  above  and  below ;  tlie 
hills  in  all  this  vicinity  are  impressively 
bold  and  lofty,  making  the  comparatively 
narrow  channel  of  the  river  seem  yet  nar- 
rower, and  italicizing  the  quiet  beauty  of 
the  many  verdant  islands  which  stud  the 
waters  here. 

Shickshinnet/  and  Vy^apwollopen  are 
little  places  yet  below,  in  the  midst  of  a 
rugged  hill  and  valley  country.  The 
Baiik  of  Wapwollopen,  on  the  east  shore, 
is  the  barren  peak  of  its  namesake  moun- 
tain. All  the  streams  from  Nanticoke 
down  are  adoinied  with  cascades  of  gi'cat 
beautv,  and  ajjound  in  trout,  and  the 
river  with  salmon. 

Coia2iM.I>i;a. — The  western  terminus 
of  the  Fhiiaddplda  and  Columbia  Rail- 
xvay  is  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Susque- 
hanna, 28  miles  below  IJariisburg  and 
12  miles  west  of  Lancaster.  Apart  of 
the  town  occupies  the  slope  of  a  hill, 
which  rises  gently  from  the  river,  and 
the  business  part  of  the  town  lies  along 
the  level  bank  of  the  river.  The  scenery 
from  the  hills  m  the  vicinity  is  highly 
pleasing.  The  broad  river,  studded  with 
numerous  islands  and  rocks,  crossed  by  a 
long  and  splendid  briilge,  and  bounded 
on  every  side  by  lofty  hills,  makes  a  bril- 
liant dls])iay.  A  line  bridge,  more  than 
a  mile  in  length,  crosses  the  Susquehanna 
to  \Vii:;hisville.     ropulatiun,  0,()oO. 

\'oi*li  is  ten  railes  soutliwcst  of  the 
Suiiquehanua,  upon  the  Cudorus   Creek, 
1G8 


28  miles  south-scutheast  of  Harrisburg, 
57  railes  from  Baltimore  by  the  Korlhcrn 
and,  Central  Railway^  and  92  from  Phila- 
delphia, With  all  these  cities,  and  with 
yet  other  points,  it  is  connected  by  rail- 
way. The  Northern  Central  Ilailway 
unites  at  York  with  the  Wirjhtsville, 
Yo7'k  and  Columbia  Railway.  The  Con- 
tinental Congress  met  here  in  lY^T,  dur- 
ing the  occupation  of  Philadelphia  by  the 
British  troops.  The  Conri-IIoicse  is  an 
imposing  granite  edifice,  built  in  1842,  at 
a  cost  of  §150,000.  The  Naiioncd  Hotel 
has  good  accommodation  for  visitors. 
Population,  1 2,000. 

Csas'lisle  is  a  beautiful  and  interest- 
ing town,  with  a  population  of  7,000,  on 
the  line  of  the  Cumberland  Valley  Rail- 
way^ 18  miles  below  Harrisburg  and  125 
miles  west  of  Philadelphia.  It  lies  in  the 
limestone  valley  country',  between  the 
Kittatinny  and  the  South  Mountains. 
Dickinson  College  (Methodist),  which  is 
located  in  Carlisle,  is  one  of  the  most 
venerable  and  esteemed  institutions  in 
Pennsylvania.  It  was  founded  in  1783. 
Carlisle  is  connected  by  the  Cumberland 
Valley  road  witli  Harrisburg,  on  the  one 
hand,  and  with  Chambersburg  and  Hagers- 
town,  in  Maryland,  on  the  other.  General 
Washington's  headquarters  were  here  in 
1794,  at  the  time  of  the  Whiskey  Pebel- 
lion.  Some  years  before,  Major  Andre 
was  a  prisoner  of  war  in  Carlisle.  It  was 
shelled  by  the  rebels  during  their  inva- 
sion of  the  State  (July,  1SG3).  Carlisle 
Springs^  four  miles  north  of  the  town,  is 
a  place  of  pleasant  summer  resort. 

The  i>cS«>vsai'c  IrViitei*  i^ap. 
Ho  YEL, — Kittatinny  Ho  use. 

The  bold  passage  of  the  Delaware 
River,  called  the  Water  Gap,  is  easily 
and  speedily  reached  from  the  cities  and 
vicinage  of  New  York  and  Philadelphia, 
and  a  pleasanter  excursion  for  a  day  or 
two  cannot  be  well  made.  The  Dela- 
ware liiver  rises  on  the  western  decliv- 
ity of  the  Kaatskill  mountains,  in  two 
streams,  which  meet  at  the  village  of 
Hancock,  a  station  on  the  Neio  York 
and  Erie  Railroad.  At  Port  Jervis 
(see  Erie  Railroad),  after  journeying 
70  miles,  it  meets  the  Kittatirmy  or 
Slunvanirunk  Mountain,  and  next  breaks 
through  the  bold  ridge  at  the  Water 
Gap.     At  this  great  pass  the  clifla  rise 


SCRANTON.] 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


[Gettysburg. 


perpenclicularly  from  1,000  to  1,200  feet, 
and  the  rivei'  rushes  through  the  grand 
gorge  in  magnificent  style.  It  afterward 
crosses  the  South  luountain,  not  far  be- 
low Easton  (from  which  point  the  Gap  is 
generally  approached) ;  next  falls  over 
the  primitive  ledge  at  Trenton,  N.  J.  ; 
grows  by  and  by  into  a  large  navigable 
river,  skirts  the  wharves  of  the  city  of 
Philadelphia,  and  is  lost  100  miles  below, 
in  the  Delaware  Bay.  The  whole  length 
of  this  fine  river,  from  the  mountains  to 
the  bay,  is  SOO  miles.  (See  Rivers,  p. 
139.)  The  Highland  Dell  House  is  a 
pleasant  summer  resort,  tv/o  miles  from 
Stroudsbui'g  Station,  and  three  from  the 
Water  Gap. 

Sc*i*S£Bi.t®ii.  —  Hotel,  Wyomivg. — 
Scranton  is  an  important  manufacturing 
and  commercial  town  on  the  south  bank 
of  the  Lackawanna  River.  It  is  the  point 
of  junction  between  the  Lackawanna  and 
Bloomshurg^  and  Hdaioare^  Lackawanna, 
and  W€ste7'n  Railways,  which  afford  direct 
communication  with  points  east  and  west. 
Population,  15,000. 

Kingston,  1*7  miles  west,  is  the  point 
of  departure  for  Wilkesbarre  and  the 
Wyoming  valley. 

dEaMil>cr§I>iirg-  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  Cumberlartd  Valley  Rail- 
v:a.y,  52  miles  south  of  Ilarrisburg,  sur- 
rounded by  a  highly  cultivated  country, 
forming  part  of  the  limestone  valley 
which  extends  along  the  south  base  of  the 
Blue  Mountain.  Conechocheague  Creek 
flows  through  the  town.  It  reaches  from 
Philadelphia,  via  Harrisburg,  or  from 
Baltimore  by  the  Balibnore  and  Ohio 
Railway  to  Frederick ;  thence  by  stage  to 
Ilagerstown.     Hotel,  Brown'' s. 

Cicetty.«^l>Ms*g",  the  county  town  of 
Adams  County,  and  the  western  terminus 
of  the  Gettysburg  Railway,  will  well  re- 
pay a  visit  from  the  traveller  in  this  sec- 
tion of  the  State.  It  is  pleasantly  situ- 
ated on  a  gently  rolling  and  fertile  plain, 
surrounded  by  hills,  from  which  exten- 
sive views  of  the  village  and  adjacent 
country  are  obtained.  It  is  G9  miles 
from  Harrisburg,  and  TCi  from  Baltimore, 
via  Hanover  Junction,  on  the  Northern 
Central  Railway^  the  only  present  route 
by  which  to  reach  the  place.  It  is 
reached  from  New  York  in  one  day  by 
the  Jersey  Central  Raiivmy  to  Reading, 
8 


and  thence,  via  Columbia  and  York.  A 
more  direct  route  than  the  present,  via 
Hanover  Junction,  is  much  needed,  and 
steps  are  taken  to  secure  this  object. 
The  principal  hotel  is  the  Eagle,  which 
has  accommodation  for  about  80  guests, 
The  Lutheran  Theoloejical  Seminary. 
founded  in  1826,  and  the  Pennsylvania 
College,  are  among  the  most  prominent 
institutions  of  the  place.  The  former 
has  a  fine  library,  and  is  well  worthy  a 
visit.  Gettysburg,  however,  is  endowed 
with  an  interest  growing  out  of  the  late 
war,  far  transcending  any  which  it  pos- 
sessed in  its  own  right,  and  visitors  will 
not  care  to  tarry  long  after  they  have 
visited  the  memorable  battle-field,  on 
and  around  which  was  fought  one  of  the 
most  bloody  and  decisive  conflicts  of  that 

"strange,  eventful  history," 

known  as  the  Great  Rebellion,  and  con- 
summated in  the  restoration  of  the  Union. 

The  battle  was  fought  on  the  1st,  2d,  and 
3d  of  July,  18  63,  between  the  Union  forces, 
under  General  Meade,  and  the  Confeder- 
ate army,  under  General  Lee,  in  which 
the  latter  was  vanquislied,  with  a  loss  in 
killed,  wounded,  and  prisoners,  of  23,000 
men. 

A  day,  well  employed,  will  suffice  to 
show  the  stranger,  at  Gettysburg,  the 
battle-field  and  cemetery,  while  a  second 
and  third  may  be  spent  in  visiting  the 
springs  and  the  several  objects  of  interest 
in  and  round  the  village.  The  best  ap- 
proach to  the  battle-field  is  that  by  the 
Baltimore  turnpike,  which  leads  south- 
wardly from  the  village  directly  to  Ceme- 
tery Hill,  distant  half  a  mile  from  the 
Eagle  Hotel.  Cemetery  Hill  forms  the 
central  and  most  striking  feature  at 
Gettysburg.  Here  General  Howard  estab- 
lished his  headquarters ;  upon  this  point 
the  heaviest  fire  of  the  enemy  was  con- 
centrated ;  and  here  is  most  appropriately 
located  the  National  Cemetery,  where  are 
interred  a  large  number  of  the  Union 
soldiers  who  fell  during  the  engagement. 
(See  National  Cemetery.)  It  was  known 
as  Cemetery  Hill  long  before  the  battle, 
the  eastern  slope  of  it  having  been  enclos- 
ed and  used  as  the  village  burying-ground. 
This  shoiild  al;-'o  be  visited  by  the  travel- 
ler. The  view  from  the  crest  of  the  hill  is 
open  and  extended,  affording  every  facil- 

169 


Gettyspurg.] 


PEXXSYLYAXIA. 


[Gettysburg. 


itv,    with  the  aid  of  the  accoinpanvinj; 
map,  for  following  the  movements  of  the 
respective  armies.     As  the  inspection  of 
the  cemeteries  must  be  made  on  foot,  the 
visitor  will  save  time  and  labor  by  fol- 
lowiai;    the   route   here  indicated.     The 
Villaje  Cemetery^  sometimes   called  the 
CJtizsns'  Cemetery,  in  contradistinction  to 
the  National  or  Soldiers'  Cemetery,  which 
adjoins   it,    is   entered   through   a   lofty 
arched  gateway  from  the  Baltimore  road. 
Following  the  mahi  avenue  southward,  a 
short  walk  brings  the  visitor  to  a  circular 
lot,  well-nigh  covered  with  stones,  which 
are  to  be  used  in  the  construction  of  a 
vault.     They  present  an  aspect  at  once 
striking;  and  suggestive.     They  cover  the 
spot  selected  by  General  Howard  on  the 
morning  of  the  engagement  as  his  head- 
quarters, and  here  the  heaviest  fire   of 
the  rebel  batteries,  numbering  nearly  two 
hundred  guns,  was  concentrated.     With 
wise  and  kindly  forethought,  that  officer 
had  ordered  the  monuments  and  tomb- 
stones which  surround   the  spot  to   be 
taken  down,  so  that  while  some  were  un- 
avoidably   injured,     comparatively    few 
were  destroyed.     The  marble  monument 
erected  to  General   Gettys,  the  founder 
and     early    proprietor    of    Gettysburg, 
which    occupies    a    prominent    position 
on  the  right  of  the  avenue  between  the 
entrance   and  this  lot,  is  worthy  of  no- 
tice.   Standing  on  Cemetery  Hill,  the  vis- 
itor has  the  key  to  the  position  of  th«j 
Union     forces      during    those     eventful 
"  three    days   of  July."     Cemetery  Hill 
proper   is  the  termination  of  the  ridge 
which  runs  southward  between  the  roads 
leading  respectively  to  Taneytown  and  Em- 
metsburg.  The  view  from  this  hill  is  exten- 
sive and  varied.  Westv.ard  the  horizon  is 
bounded  by  the  long  range  oi  the"  South 
Mountain,"   beyond  which  lie  Chambers- 
burg  and  Ilagerstovt-n.  In  the  same  direc- 
tion,   a   little    to   the   right,    and  rather 
more  than  a  mile  distant,  is  the   Semi- 
nary^ near  which  began  the  battle  of  the 
]st,  which  terminated  so  disastrously  to 
Reynolds's  corps.   From  Seminary  Ridge 
General  Lee  opened  a  furious  bombard- 
ment of  the  Union  position  on  Cemetery 
Hill.     The  cemetery  is   enclosed  with    a 
neat   railing.     On    the    gateway  are   in- 
scribed the  names  (eighteen  in  number) 
of  the  States  represented  by  those  buried 
170 


within.     The  monument^  the  foundation 
of  which  was  laid  November  19,  1863, 
will  be  completed  July  4,  1868.     The  de- 
signer and  contractor  is  James  G.  Bat- 
tcrson,  of  Hartford,  Conn.,  and  the  cost 
will  be  647,000.     It  will  be  60  feet  high, 
and  crowned  with  a  statue  of  Liberty. 
At  the  base  of  the  pedestal  are  four  but- 
tresses, surmounted  with  allegorical  stat- 
ues, representing  \Yar,    History,    Peace, 
and  Plenty.     The  monument  occupies  the 
crown  of  the  hill,  and  around  it,  in  semi- 
circular slopes,  are  ranged  the  dead,  each 
State   being  represented  by  a  separate 
section.   The  divisions  between  the  States 
are    marked    by   alleys    and    pathways, 
radiating   from    the    monument    to  the 
outer  cii'cle,  the  coffin-rows  being  divided 
by  continuous  granite  blocks  about  six 
inches   high,  upon  which    are  inscribed 
the   name   and   regiment    of    each    sol- 
dier,   as    far    as    ascertained.     Between 
Emmettsburg   pike    and    Cemetery   Hill 
lies  the   scene  of  Pickett's   bloody  and 
disastrous  charge,  in  which  18,000  men 
are   estimated    to    have  been   engaged. 
Following  Cemetery  Ridge,  and  keeping 
before  him  Round   Top  Mountain,   says 
the  historian  of  the  Army  of  the  Poto- 
mac, a  short  walk  will  bring  the  visitor 
to  one  of  the  most  interesting  spots  on 
this    famous    battle-field.      "This   is    a 
bunch  of  wood  to  which  a  few — it  may 
be   a  score  or  two — of  the  boldest  and 
bravest  that    led   the  van   of  Pickett's 
charging    column,  on   the    2d  July,    at- 
tained.    Thus  far  the  swelling  surge  of^ 
invasion  threw  its  spray,  dashing  itself  to 
pieces  on  the  I'ocky  bulwark  of  northern 
valor.     Let  us   cill  this  the   high-water 
mark  of  the  rebellion."  Seminary  RixJne, 
CoUeye  Hill,  Culp's  Hill,  Round  Top,  and 
Little  Round  Top,  are  generally  visited  ; 
their  exact  topography  will  readily  be  as- 
certained by  reference  to  the  accompany- 
ing map.    V/illonyhhy  Run,  where  General 
Buford's  cavalry  held  in  check  the  rebel 
column  under  Hill  for  nearly  two  hours, 
is  pointed  out.     A  mineral  sjiring,  the 
property    of     an     as^-ociatiou     recently 
(18G6)    chartered,    mider    the    style   of 
the    "  Lithca    Spriny  Associanon,''^   and 
containing   valuable   medicinal  qualities, 
forms    one    of    the    novel    and  attrac- 
tive features  of  the  place.     The  water  is 
said  to  resemble  that  of  the  celebrated 


Bedford  Springs.] 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


[Cresson  SpRrNGS. 


Yicliy  Spring  in  Germany,  It  is  situated 
about  two  miles  west  of  the  town. 

Bedlbrd  ^prisag's,  located  one 
mile  from  the  vilhigo  of  Bedford,  on  the 
Kaystown  branch  of  the  Juniata,  is  an 
attractive  place  for  invalid  summer  resort. 
The  v.Mtcr  contains  carbonic  acid,  sul- 
phate of  magnesia,  sulphate  of  lime,  and 
muriate  of  soda.  Excellent  hotel  accom- 
modation for  visitors. 

Eoute,  via  Huntingdon,  on  the  Pcnn- 
s^ylvania  Central  Railway  ;  thence  by  the 


Himiingdon  avd  Broad  Top  road  to 
Mount  Dallas,  44  miles ;  thence  by  stage, 
six  miles. 

Crcssoia  ^ps'lEsg-s,  on  the  sum- 
mit of  the  AUeghanies,  15  miles  west  of 
Altoona,  is  a  pleasant  summ.er  resort. 
The  village  is  3,000  feet  above  sea-level, 
and  is  much  esteemed  by  invalids  for  the 
purity  of  its  air.  The  hotels  and  cot- 
ta;res  have  accommodation  for  upward  of 
2,000  persons.  The  Mountain  House  is 
well  kept. 

171 


Ohio.] 


onio. 


[Ohio. 


\ 


OHIO 


Ohio  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most 
important  of  the  great  Western  States, 
and  the  third  in  the  Republic  in  popu- 
lation and  wealth.  It  extends  over  an 
area  of  200  miles  in  length  and  195 
miles  in  breadth.  On  its  northern  limits 
are  Michigan  and  Lake  Erie ;  Pennsyl- 
vania and  Virginia  encompass  it  east- 
wardly ;  the  waters  of  the  Ohio  separate 
it  from  Kentucky  on  the  south,  and  west- 
ward Hes  the  State  of  Indiana. 

The  central  portions  of  Ohio  are,  for 
the  most  part,  level  lands,  with  here  and 
there,  more  especially  toward  the  north, 
tracts  of  marsh.  In  the  northwest  theie 
is  an  extensive  stretch  of  very  fertile 
country,  called  the  Black  Swamp,  much  of 
which  is  yet  covered  with  forest.  Some 
prairies  are  seen  in  these  middle  and 
northern  parts  of  the  State.  A  ridge  of 
high  land,  north  of  the  middle  of  the 
State,  separates  the  rivers  flowing  north 
into  Lake  Erie  from  those  running  south 
into  the  Ohio  River.  A  second  ridge  in- 
terrupts the  Ohio  slope  near  the  middle  of 
the  State,  and  thence  all  the  rest  of  the 
way  southv/ard  the  country  is  broken 
and  hilly,  terminating  often  upon  the 
waters  of  the  Ohio  in  abrupt  and  lofty 
banks.  The  great  bituminous  coal-veins 
of  Pennsylvania,  Virginia,  and  Kentucky, 
extend  into  Ohio,  supplying  her  well  with 
this  valuable  product.  Of  iron  also  she 
possesses  ample  stores. 

The  history  of  Ohio  is  of  very  recent 
date.  The  State  is  literally  a  product  of 
tlic  nineteenth  century,  having  been 
formed  from  the  territory  northwest  of 
the  Ohio  in  1802.  The  tirst  settlements 
within  the  State  were  made  (April  7, 
1788)  by  New  England  emigrants  at 
Marietta.  Near  that  place  is  a  remark- 
able mound  30  feet  high,  which,  with  a 
few  similar  earthworks  in  the  ueighbor- 
172 


hood  of  Circlerllle,  constitute  almost  the 
only  natural  objects  of  interest  in  these 


regions. 


The  State  is  divided  into  eighty-eight 
counties,  and  has  a  population  of  2,500- 
000.  Columbus  is  the  State  capital,  and 
Cincinnati  the  chief  commercial  city. 
Cleveland,  Dayton,  Toledo,  Zanesville, 
Sandusky,  and  Hamilton  are  thriving 
commercial  towns.  In  Warren  County  is 
Fort xincioifi  which  has  about  four  miles 
of  embankment,  from  18  to  20  feet  high. 
In  Ross  County  are  Clark's  Works,  2,800 
feet  long  and  1,800  broad,  enclosing  some 
smaller  works  and  mounds.  A  subter- 
ranean lake  is  supposed  to  exist  at  Bryan, 
in  Williams  County,  as  water,  when 
bored  for,  is  found  at  a  depth  of  40  or 
50  feet  at  all  times  and  in  great  abun- 
dance, and  fish,  too,  sometimes  coming  up 
with  it. 

Ohio  owes  her  wonderful  prosperity — 
her  almost  marvellous  growth,  in  the 
period  of  60  years,  from  a  wild  forest 
tract  to  the  proud  rank  she  now  holds 
among  the  greatest  of  the  great  American 
States — mainly  to  the  capabilities  of  her 
rich  soil  and  generous  climate.  Nearly 
all  her  vast  territory  is  avaiUible  for  agri- 
cultural uses.  In  the  amount  of  her  prod- 
ucts of  wool  and  of  Indian  corn  she  has 
no  peer  in  all  the  land,  while  she  is  ex- 
ceeded by  only  one  other  State  in  her 
growth  of  wheat,  barley,  cheese,  and 
live-stock ;  by  only  two  States  in  the 
value  of  her  orchards,  oats,  potatoes, 
buckwheat,  grasses,  hay,  maple  sugar, 
and  butter.  Among  other  articles  which 
she  yields  abundantly  are  hops,  wine, 
hemp,  silk,  honey,  beeswax,  molasses 
(sorghum),  sweet  potatoes,  and  a  great 
variety  of  fruits.  Her  vines,  which  are 
known  and  esteemed  everywhere,  have 
yielded,  in  the  vicinity  of  Cincinnati  alone, 


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Rivers.] 


OHIO. 


[Cincinnati. 


half  a  million  of  gallons  of  wine  in  a  year. 
Grapes  are  now  extensively  cultivated  on 
Kelly's  Inland  and  the  lake  region.  In 
the  forests  and  woodlands  are  found  the 
oak,  the  sugar  and  other  maples,  the 
hickory,  the  sycamore,  poplar,  ash,  aud 
beech — the  pawpaw,  the  buckeye  (Ohio 
is  called  the  Buckeye  State),  the  dog- 
wood, and  many  other  trees. 

li  i  V  e  1*  s. — The  Ohio  River  forms 
most  of  the  eastern  and  all  of  the  southern 
boundary  of  the  State,  and  is  the  recipient 
of  the  other  principal  streams  of  the  re- 
gion. (See  Ohio  River.)  It  is  navigated 
by  passenger  packets  during  tlie  fall, 
winter,  and  spring  months  as  high  as 
Pittsburg. 

'FIs.e'  MBaslilBig-^i^^ii  IgiveB-  is 
formed  by  the  Tuscarawas  and  the  Wal- 
lionding,  which  rise  in  the  upper  part  of 
the  State  and  meet  at  Coshocton.  From 
this  point  the  course  of  the  Muskingum 
is   nearly   southeast,    110   miles   to    the 


Ohio,  at  Marietta 
this  river  as  far 
from  its  moulh. 

'I'lae  Sci©tc 
main    alBueut    at 


Steamboats  navigate 
as  Dresden,  95  miles 


ISi^'ei*  receives  its 
Columbus,  and  Sows 
thence  nearly  south  to  the  Ohio  at  Ports- 
mouth. Its  passage  is  about  200  miles, 
through  a  fertile  valley  region.  The 
route  of  the  Ohio  and  Erie  Canal  is  near 
the  Scioto,  for  a  distance  of  more  than 
90  miles. 

'fi'lae  Ifliaajil  "ilivc3»  flows  150 
miles  from  the  northwest  central  part  of 
the  State,  past  Troy,  Dayton,  and  Hamil- 
ton, to  the  Ohio,  20  miles  below  Cincin- 
nati. It  is  a  rapid  and  picturesque  stream, 
traversing  a  very  populous  and  productive 
valley  tract.  Its  course  is  followed  for 
VO  miles  by  the  Miami  Canal. 

In  the  upper  part  of  Ohio  are  the 
Sandusky,  the  Huron,  the  Cuyahoga,  and 
other  smaller  rivers,  which  find  their  way 
to  Lake  Erie.  This  lake  forms  about  150 
miles  of  the  north  and  northwestern 
boundary  of  the  State. 

Ohio  is  one  of  the  most  desirable 
States  of  the  Union  to  visit  and  travel  in, 
the  means  of  communication  being  nu- 
merous and  expeditious.  Lines  of  railway 
diverge  from  Cincinnati  and  other  large 
commercial  centres  in  every  direction 
and  to  every  important  point  in  the 
State. 


CINCINNATI. 

Hotels  :  The  Burnet  House  is  very  cen- 
trally and  pleasantly  located  on  Third  and 
Vine  Streets ;  the  k^penctr  Houne,  on  Broad- 
way, near  the  Landing  ;  Broadway  House, 
corner  of  Second  Street  and  Broadway, 
near  the  river  and  Landing ;  Walnut  Street 
House^  Walnut  Street,  between  Sixth  and 
Seventh  Streets.  The  St.  NicJiolas^  at  the 
corner  of  Fourth  and  Race  Streets,  has 
one  of  the  best-ordered  restaurants  in  the 
West. 

Routes. — From  New  York,  by  the  Erie 
Railway  to  Salai;panca,  and  thence  by  the 
Atlantic  and  Great  V/cntcrn  RaUway^via 
Mansfield.  Total  distance  from  New  York, 
862  miles. 

From  Philadelphia. — By  Pennsylvania 
Railroad,  355  miles,  to  Pittsburg,  Pa., 
and  thence  313  miles,  via  Columbus,  to 
Cincinnati.  Total,  G68   miles. 

From  Baltimore. — Baltimore  and  Ohio 
Railroad,  379  miles,  to  Wheehng,  Va. ; 
Central  Ohio,  from  Bellaire,  via  Zanes- 
ville,  to  Columbus,  137  miles;  Little 
Miami  Railroad,  120  miles,  to  Cincinnati. 
Total,  636  miles. 

.   From  St.  Louis. — By  Ohio  and  Missis- 
sippi Railway,  340  miles. 

From  Nev/  Orleans. — Mississippi  and 
Ohio  River  steamers,  or  by  railway,  via 
Memphis,  Louisville,  Lexington,  etc. 

"The  Queen  City  of  the  West,"  as 
Cincinnati  has  not  inappropriately  been 
called,  is  the  largest  city  of  the  West, 
and  the  fifth  in  extent  and  importance 
in  the  Union.  Its  central  position  on 
the  Ohio  River  has  made  it  a  receiying 
and  distributing  depot  for  the  wide  and 
rich  country  tributary  to  those  great 
waters.  The  city  is  delightfully  situated 
in  a  valley  of  three  miles'  extent,  enclosed 
by  a  well-defined  cordon  of  hills,  reach- 
ing, by  gentle  ascent,  an  elevation  above 
the  river  of  some  400  feet.  These  high 
points  command  imposing  views  of  the 
city  and  its  surroundings,  far  and  near. 

The  chief  portion  of  Cincinnati  lies 
upon  two  plateaus  or  terraces,  the  first  50 
feet  above  low-water  mark,  and  the  sec- 
ond 108  feet.  The  upper  plain  slopes  grad- 
ually for  a  mile  to  the  foot  of  Mount  Au- 
burn— a  range  of  limestone  hills,  charm- 
ingly embellished  with  villas  and  vine- 
yards.    The  city  occupies  the  river  shore 

173 


OiNCINNATI.] 


omo. 


[CiNCINXATI. 


for  more  than  three  miles,  and  its  area  is 
rapidly  extending  in  every  direction.  The 
central  and  commercial  quarter  is  well 
and  compactly  built.  The  streets  are 
mostly  of  good  width,  well  paved  and 
well  lighted.  It  is  divided  into  18  wards. 
The  principal  thoroughfares  are  Broad- 
way, Main,  Pearl,  and  Fourth  Streets. 
Main  Street,  the  great  business  highway, 
5^  miles  long,  traverses  the  city  from  the 
Steamboat  Landing — an  open  area  of 
10  acres,  -u-ith  1,000  feet  front — and 
is  intersected  at  right  angles  by  14  lead- 
ing streets,  named  First,  Second,  Third, 
Fourth,  and  so  on.  Pearl  Street,  parallel 
with  the  river,  is  the  great  jobbing  mart. 
Fourth  Street  is  the  "  Fifth  Avenue  "  of 
the  town,  a  long,  wide,  elegant  and  fash- 
ionable promenade  upon  the  crown  of  the 
First  Terrace,  following  the  course  of  the 
river,  and  overlooking  its  waters  and 
windings.  Fifth  Street  contains  the  mar- 
kets, and  displays  a  scene  of  busy  life 
through  an  extent  of  three  or  four  miles. 
The  present  population  of  Cincinnati  is 
225,000,  and,  adding  the  rapidly  increas- 
ing suburban  population  of  Walnut  Hills, 
Clifton,  CriTnrainsville,  and  Mount  Au- 
burn, it  will  exceed  250,000. 

Public  Buildings.  —  The  Ci-'cinnaii 
Observatory  has  a  beautiful  situation  upon 
Mount  Adams,  in  the  eastern  part  of  the 
city.  It  commands  an  extensive  view  of 
the  Ohio  and  of  the  surrounding  country. 
It  can  be  distinctly  seen  by  the  traveller 
from  the  steamboat,  in  passing  up  or 
down  the  river.  It  occupies  four  acres  of 
land,  the  gift  of  the  late  Mr,  Nicholas 
Longworth.  It  was  built  by  the  volun- 
tary contributions  of  the  citizens,  who 
gave  $25  each  toward  the  erection  of  the 
building  and  the  purchase  of  appropriate 
instruments.  Much,  however,  is  due  to 
the  energy  and  perseverance  of  Professor 
Mitchcl,  to  whose  unceasing  labors  they 
are  principally  indebted  for  the  result. 
The  corner-stone  was  laid  November  9, 
1843,  by  the  late  John  Qiiincy  Adam?, 
who  called  the  edifice  a  "light-house  of 
the  skies."  The  telescope,  made  by  Mcntz 
&;  Mahler,  of  Munich,  is  of  fine  finish,  ac- 
curacy, and  power.  Its  cost  was  $10,000. 

The  Masonic  Hall  (Temple)  stands  on 

the    northwest   corner   of  Walnut    and 

Third  Streets.  It  is  an  elegant  structure, 

200  feet  front  and  80  feet  high,  newly 

174 


erected  from  designs  by  Hamilton  and 
McLaughlin,  at  a  cost  of  830,000.  Odd- 
Fclloios'  Hall  is  opposite. 

The  Cincvinati  College,  a  commodious 
building',  is  situated  in  Walnut  Street,  be- 
tween Fourth  and  Fifth  Streets.  It  is  of 
the  Grecian  Doric  order,  three  stories 
high,  exclusive  of  an  attic,  and  140  feet 
front,  100  deep,  and  60  in  height.  The 
Exchange  and  Reading-room  is  59  feet  by 
45  feet,  and  one  of  the  finest  in  the  L"ni- 
ted  States.  The  Mercantile  Library  As- 
sociafion  occupies  rooms  in  the  same 
building  as  the  Exchange,  and  on  the 
same  floor.  It  has  2,000  members,  and 
23,000  volumes,  besides  a  very  large 
supply  of  American  and  foreign  news- 
papers, periodicals,  etc.  The  United 
States  building  for  the  accommodation 
of  the  Post-office,  Custom-House,  and  the 
United  States  Courts,  is  one  of  the  most 
symmetrical  edifices  in  the  city,  being 
a  fine  specimen  of  Corinthian  architec- 
ture. It  occupies  a  central  locale  on  the 
southwest  corner  of  Vine  and  Fourth 
Streets,  The  Lunatic  Asylum  is  a  three- 
story  edifice  of  brick,  located  in  the 
north v.cst  part  of  the  city.  It  has  accom- 
modation for  450  inmates.  The  Ohio 
JTedical  College  is  located  in  Sixth  Street, 
between  Vine  and  Race ;  it  contains  a 
large  lecture-room,  library,  etc.,  the  lat- 
ter having  several  thousand  well-selected 
standard  works,  purchased  by  the  State. 
The  cabinet  bclonoing  to  the  anatomical 
department  is  amply  furnished. 

The  Citv  Hall  is  in  Plum  Street,  be- 
twecn  Eighth  and  Ninth  Streets. 

The  Court-House,  on  JIain  Street,  op- 
posite Court,  is  a  spacious  edifice,  of 
white  limestone,  resembling  marble, 
erected  at  a  cost  of  half  a  million  dol- 
lars. Mozart  Hall  is  a  massive  stone 
building,  v.-ith  an  auditorium  capable  of 
seating  3,000  pei'sons. 

The  Suspension  Bridge,  across  the 
Ohio  River,  is  a  magnificent  structure. 
This  enterprise  was  projected  as  early 
as  1848,  and  a  charter  was  granted 
some  years  ago  by  the  Legislatures  of 
Kentucky  and  Ohio.  It  was  not,  how- 
ever, until  a  comparatively  recent  date 
that  subscriptions  of  stock  could  be  se- 
cured to  make  a  beginning.  Some  enter- 
prising men  having  procured  (1855) 
§350,000,  Tvhich  has,  during  the  progress 


Cincinnati.] 


OHIO. 


[Cincinnati. 


of  the  \rorlc,  been  increased  to  $'700,000, 
the  foundations  were  laid  September  1, 
1856,  and  it  will  be  completed  during 
1867.  The  entire  cost  of  the  bridge  will 
exceed  one  and  a  half  million  dollars. 
The  progress  of  the  work  is  very  interest- 
ing. The  towers,  the  foundations  of  which 
arc  laid  86  by  52  feet  at  the  base,  are 
230  feet  high,  and  1,057  feet  apart.  The 
cables  are  anchored  300  feet  back  on 
each  side  of  the  river,  whence,  passing 
over  the  tops  of  the  towers,  they  sustain 
the  v/hole  weight  of  the  bridge.  The  en- 
tire length  of  the  bridge  will  be  2,252  feet. 
The  elevation  of  the  floor  at  the  middle, 
above  low-w\ater  mark,  is  100  feet.  The 
great  flood  of  1832 — the  highest  on  rec- 
ord— rose  62  feet  above  low  water  ;  ond 
making  allowance  even  for  this,  there 
will  remain  38  feet.  The  highest  grade 
of  ascent  at  either  end  is  5  feet  in  100 
feet,  and  the  strength  of  the  bridge  will 
be  equal  to  that  of  any  similar  structure 
in  tlie  world.  Opened  to  pedestrians, 
December  1,  1866. 

Churches,  etc. — Among  the  church 
edifices,  of  which  there  are  110  within 
the  city,  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Peter  is  the 
most  prominent  ond  best  worthy  of  a 
visit.  It  is  situated  on  Plum  Street,  cor- 
ner of  Eighth,  and  is  devoted  to  the  ser- 
vices of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church.  The 
building  is  200  feet  long  by  80  broad,  and 
60  feet  high,  with  a  steeple  of  221  feet. 
The  roof  is  principally  supported  upon 
18  freestone  pillars,  formed  of  fluted 
shafts,  with  Corinthian  tops,  three  and  a 
half  feet  in  diameter,  and  35  feet  in 
height.  The  ceiling  is  of  stucco-work,  of 
a  rich  and  expensive  character.  The 
roof  is  composed  of  iron  plates,  wdiose 
seams  arc  coated  with  a  composition  of 
coal-tar  and  sand,  which  renders  it  im- 
pervious to  rain.  The  building  cost 
190,000,  and  the  ground  $24,000.  At  the 
west  end  of  the  church  is  an  altar  of  the 
purest  Carrara  marble,  made  by  Chiappri, 
of  Genoa  ;  it  is  embellished  with  a  centre- 
piece, enriched  with  rays,  around  which 
wreaths  and  flowers  are  beautifully  carved. 
The  organ  has  2,700  pipes  and  44  stops. 
One  of  the  pipes  is  33  feet  long,  and 
weighs  400  pounds.  It  cost  $5,250.  Sev- 
eral paintings  occupy  the  Walls,  among 
which  the  St.  Peter,  by  Murillo,  presented 
to   Bishop   Fenwick  by  Cardinal   Fesch, 


uncle  of  Napoleon,  is  much  admired.  The 
Episcopal  Church,  corner  of  Seventh  and 
Plum  Streets,  and  the  First  Presbyterian, 
corner  of  Main  and  Fourth  Streets,  are 
notable  edifices. 

Theatres. — Pike's  Ope^'Orllouse,  burnt 
March  22,  1866,  is  now  being  rebuilt  on 
the  old  site,  on  Fourth  Street,  between 
Walnut  and  Vine,  and  running  back  to 
Baker.  The  National  Iheatre^  No.  92 
Sycamore,  between  Third  and  Fourth 
Streets,  is  the  oldest  theatrical  establish- 
ment in  the  city.  WoocVs  Theatre^  corner 
of  Vine  and  Sixth  Streets,  is  a  newer 
place  of  resort.  The  German  Theatre 
is  at  the  northeast  corner  of  Mercer  and 
Vine  Streets. 

Benevolent  Institutions. — The  chief 
benevolent  institutions  are  the  Lunatic 
Asybim^  the  Commercial  Hospital^  four 
Orphan  Asylums  (viz.,  the  Cincinnati^ 
Elm,  corner  of  Thirteenth  Street ;  St. 
Peter^s,  corner  Third  and  Plum  Streets ; 
St.  Aloysiiis^  Fourth  Street;  and  West 
German  Protestant^  Mount  Auburn),  the 
Widows''  Home,  Asi/han  for  Indigent  Fe- 
males, the  House  of  Refupe,  and  the  Hotel 
for  Invalids,  corner  of  Broadway  and 
Franklin.  The  Longvieio  Asylum,  near 
Carthage  Station,  on  the  Hamilton  and 
Payton  Raihcay,  should  be  visited.  It 
can  be  reached  by  omnibus  from  the  cor- 
ner of  Sixth  and  Main  Streets. 

Educational  Institutions,  etc. — The 
educational  institutions  of  the  city  are 
under  the  supervision  of  a  board  of  trus- 
tees elected  annually.  They  embrace 
18  districts,  two  intermediate  and  two 
high  schools,  while  private  establish- 
ments of  good  grade  are  quite  numerous. 
The  St.  Xavicr  College,  on  Sycamore  Street, 
between  Sixth  and  Seventh  Streets,  has  an 
extensive  library,  museum,  and  appara- 
tus. The  Lane  TJieologiccd  Seminary  is 
named  after  the  brothers  Ebenezer  and 
Andrew  Lane,  of  Oxford,  England.  This 
institution  went  into  operation  in  1833. 
The  library  contains  10,000  volumes. 
Pairmouvt  Theological  Seminary  is  two 
miles  northwest  of  the  Court-House.  1  he 
V,^e;deyan  Female  College,  and  tie  Wood- 
ward and  Lcleciic  Medical  Colkgcs,  the 
former  founded  by  the  late  William  Wood- 
ward, are  among  the  most  noteworthy. 
The  Mount  Auburn  Young  Ladies'  In- 
siiiute  is  a  flourishing  institution. 

175 


Cincinnati.] 


OHIO. 


[Cincinnati. 


Ltbrariks,  etc. — The  public  libraries 
of  Cincinnati  are  nine  in  number,  two 
of  which  are  German.  The  Mercantile 
Library^  i\\  the  College  building,  on  Wal- 
nut Street,  between  Fourth  anJ  Fifth 
Streets,  affords  every  opportunity  for 
strangers  desiring  access  to  its  shelves. 
It  is  open  from  eight  o'clock  A.  M.  to  ten 
p.  M.  The  room  adjoining  the  library  is 
used  by  the  students  in  the  law  depart- 
ment of  the  Cincinnati  College.  The 
Mechanics'  Institute^  on  Vine  and  Sixth 
Streets,  and  the  Horticultural  Society^ 
make  annual  exhibitions. 

Cemeteries. — There  are  ten  cemeteries 
in  and  near  the  city.  Of  these,  that  lo- 
cated at  Spring  Grove  is  best  worthy  a 
visit. 

Spring  Grove  Cemetery^  a  rural  "  city 
of  the  dead,"  is  situated  in  the  valley  of 
Mill  Creek,  five  miles  northwest  of  the 
city.  It  was  commenced  in  1845.  It  con- 
tains 277  acres,  laid  out  and  adorned 
with  exquisite  and  most  appropriate 
taste.  The  original  plan  "was  drawn 
by  Notman,  of  Philadelphia.  The  great 
feature  of  Spring  Grove  is  the  open- 
lot  system,  which  has  been  adopted. 
Unsightly  fences  and  railings  nowhere 
offend  the  eye,  and  the  entire  absence  of 
all  superfluous  ornamentation  affords  a 
marked  and  pleasing  contrast  to  not  a 
few  of  our  largest  and  most  frequented 
burying-grounds.  The  grounds  are  under 
the  able  superintendence  of  Mr.  Adolph 
Strauch,  florist  and  landscape  gardener. 
Spring  Grove  contains  some  of  the  hand- 
somest monuments  to  be  found  in  any 
niral  cemetery  in  the  country.  Among 
the  most  conspicuous  for  size  and  beauty 
are  the  following :  The  Hoffner  monu- 
meni  consists  of  a  Gotliic  shrine,  executed 
in  white  marble,  by  Rule,  from  designs 
by  Earnshaw.  The  statue  within  is  by 
Fantoci,  a  Florentine  sculptor,  and  is 
much  admired.  The  Baum  monnmcnl  is 
of  Quincy  granite,  80  feet  high.  The  vault 
of  Jacob  Strader  is  worthy  of  notice.  It 
is  built  of  red  Connecticut  sandstone, 
from  designs  by  Batterson.  The  monu- 
ments to  Peter  Nelf  and  Charles  E.  Wil- 
liams are  generally  pointed  out. 

Among    the     greatest    attractions    of 
Spring  Grove   are   undoubtedly   its   fine 
trees  and  slirubs,  the  number  and  vari- 
ety of  American  forest-trees  contained  in 
176 


the  original  site  (Garrard  farm)  forming 
one  of  the  strongest  inducements  opera- 
ting in  its  selection  for  the  purposes 
of  a  cemetery.  The  list  embraces  the 
names  of  nearly  200  specimens — native 
and  foreign — now  cultivated  at  Spring 
Grove.  The  Lake  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of 
water.  The  cemetery  is  reached  by 
street  cars  from  the  corner  of  Vine  and 
Fourth  Streets  in  one  hour. 

YICINITT. 

The  neighborhood  of  Cincinnati 
abounds  with  excellent  macadamized 
roads.  They  are  fourteen  in  number, 
with  an  ascgi'egate  length  of  514  miles. 

After  visiting  Spring  Grove  and  the 
Suspension  Bridge,  a  drive  on  Madison 
and  Graudin  roads  will  show  the  visitor 
most  of  the  attractive  features  of  the 
vicinity.  Leaving  the  noise  and  smoke 
of  the  city,  and  proceeding  northward 
through  Yine  Street,  a  drive  of  half  an 
hour  will  bring  the  traveller  into  the  high 
terrace  lands  in  the  rear  of  the  city, 
whence,  unless  (as  is  sometimes  the  case) 
the  smoke  is  impenetrable,  a  good  view 
is  obtained. 

Bald  Head,  which  has  long  been  a 
favorite  vineyard  property  of  the  Long- 
worth  family,  is  soon  to  be  parcelled  off 
into  building-lots,  the  grape-crop  having 
failed  in  the  neighborhood  for  many  years 
past.  The  residences  of  Mr.  Harrison, 
Mr.  Anderson,  Captain  P.  W.  Strader, 
and  others  on  the  Grandin  road  com- 
mand fine  views  up  and  down  the  Ohio 
River.  That  from  the  grounds  of  Mr. 
Harrison  is  specially  worth  seeing. 

Routes. — There  are  twelve  main  lines 
of  railway  travel  loading  from  Cincinnati, 
by  means  of  one  or  other  of  which  every 
pomt  of  importance  or  interest  in  the  State 
can  readily  be  reached.  These  are  the  Cin- 
cinnati, Hamilton,  and  Dayton  Jxailivay, 
extending  60  miles  to  Dayton,  and  thence 
by  the  Dayton  and  Michigan  Railway  to 
Toledo  ;  the  Hamilton  and  Eaton  branch, 
from  Hamilton  (25  miles),  to  Hichniond 
(70  miles) ;  the  Atlantic  and  Great  West- 
ern Railway,  via  Dayton  (60  miles),  and 
Corry  (387),  to  Salamanca,  New  York 
(448  miles)  ;  the  Chicago  and  Great 
Eastern  Railway,  via  Richmond  (70 
miles),  to  Chicago  (292  miles) ;  iheCincin- 


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J^AMILTON.] 


OHIO. 


[Toledo. 


vati  and  Zancsville  Railway^  via  Morrow 
(86  miles),  to  Zanesville  (168  miles);  the 
Little  Miami  and  Columbus  and  Xenia 
Railroad^  to  Columbus  (120  miles),  and 
thence  by  the  Cleveland^  Columbus^  and 
Cincinnati  Railroad  to  Cleveland  (255 
miles),  and  by  the  Central  Ohio  Railroad 
to  Bellaire  (257  miles);  the  Marietta  and 
Cincinnati  Railway,  which  leaves  the  Z?7- 
tle  Miami  Railroad  at  Love! and  (23 
miles),  and  extends  to  Parkersburg,  Va. 
(202  miles) ;  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi 
Railway,  via  Lawrenceburg  (21  miles), 
and  Vincennes,  Ind.  (191  miles),  to 
St.  Louis,  Missouri,  (31-0  miles) ;  from 
Lawrenceburg  iho.  Indianapolis^  a^d  Cin- 
cinnati road  extends  to  Indianapolis  (110 
miles);  i\\(i Pittsburg,^  Columbus,  and  Cin- 
cinnati Railroad  is  an  extension  of  the 
Little  Miami  and  Central  Ohio  roads, 
via  Steuben ville  ("  Pan  Handle  "),  and  the 
Cleveland  and  Pittsburg  Railway  to  Pitts- 
burg (209  miles),  in  the  adjoining  State  of 
Pennsylvania;  the  Sandusky, iJayton, and 
Cincinnati  Railway,  via  Dayton  (60  miles), 
to  Sandusky,  on  Lake  Erie  (154  miles); 
the  Kentucky  Central  Raihvay,  from  Cov- 
ington, opposite  Cincinnati,  via  Lexing- 
ton (99  miles),  to  Nicholasville  (112 
miles). 

Travellers  bound  for  Cairo,  St.  Louis, 
Memphis,  Vicksburg,  New  Orleans,  or 
points  on  the  upper  or  lower  Mississippi 
during  the  regular  boating  season,  can 
proceed  on  the  regular  river  packets  run- 
ning between  Cincinnati  and  those  points. 

Leaving  Cincinnati,  on  the  Hcmtilton 
and  Dayton  road,  the  train  quickly 
passes  Brighton  and  Spring  Grove,  seven 
miles  (See  Spring  Grove  Cemetery). 
Near  Carthage,  three  miles  beyond 
Spring  Grove,  stands  the  imposing  edifice 
of  the  Longview  Asylum.^  one  of  the 
noblest  charities  of  the  city. 

MasniltoBi,  25  miles  from  Cincin- 
nati, on  the  road  to  Dayton,  and  90  miles 
south-southwest  of  Columbus,  lies  on  both 
sides  of  the  Miami  River.  It  was  chartered 
in  1853.  A  canal,  completed  some  years 
since,  furnishes  a  fine  water-power.  It 
is  the  county  seat  of  Butler  County, 
and  manufactures  are  extensively  carried 
on.  The  county  buildings,  churches,  and 
banks  are  among  the  most  prominent 
buildings.  It  ha=5  direct  railway  com- 
-  unication  with  Eichmond,  Indiana,  45 


miles,  by  the  Eaton  and  Hamilton  Rail- 
ivay.    Population,  8,500. 

E&jiyioini. — Hotel,  Phillips  House. 

Dayton,  60  miles  from  Cincinnati  by 
the  Cincinnati,  Hamilton,  and  Dayton 
road,  is  now  an  important  railway  centre, 
roads  diverging  thence  to  every  part  of 
the  State.  (See  Routes  from  Cincinnati.) 
This  is  one  of  the  most  populous  and  en- 
terprising cities  in  Ohio.  It  is  advanta- 
geously situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
great  Miami  Eiver,  at  the  mouth  of  Mad 
River.  The  location  is  pleasant,  and  the 
streets,  which  are  one  hundred  feet 
wide,  are  handsomely  laid  out.  Exten- 
sive manufactures  of  various  kinds  are 
carried  on.  Many  of  the  public  edifices 
and  private  mansions  are  constructed  of. 
excellent  limestone  and  marble,  which 
abound  in  the  vicinage.  It  was  settled 
in  1796,  and  incorporated  in  1805.  The 
Court-House,  erected  at  a  cost  of  $170,- 
000,  is  an  imposing  structure.  Popula- 
tion, 33,000. 

l^lisfi.cS,  on  the  Dayton  and  Micliigan 
Railway,  131  miles  north  of  Cincinnati,  is 
a  thriving  town  on  the  Ottawa  River,  98 
miles  northwest  of  Columbus.  It  haa 
immediate  railway  communication  with 
Chicago  and  Pittsburg  by  the  Pittsburg, 
Fort  Wayne,  and  Chicago  Railway.  Popu- 
lation, 4,500. 

Toteclo. — Hotels,  Island  House^ 
American  Hotel. 

Toledo  is  upon  the  Maumee  River,  four 
miles  from  its  entrance  into  Lake  Michi- 
gan, and  upon  the  great  railway  route 
from  the  Eastern  States  westward.  It  is 
52  miles  west  of  Sandusky  City,  113 
miles  west  of  Cleveland,  255  miles  from 
Dunkirk  (Erie  road),  714  miles  from 
New  York,  and  243  miles  east  of  Chicago, 
by  the  Michigan  Southern  route.  Toledo 
is  the  terminus  of  the  Wabash  and  Erie, 
and  Miami  and  Erie  Canals.  Its  history 
as  a  city  dates  only  from  1836,  but  it  is 
already  one  of  the  chief  commercial  sta- 
tions of  the  commerce  of  the  great  lakes. 
The  public  schools  and  church  edifices 
are  among  its  most  noteworthy  struc- 
tures. The  grain-trade  of  the  place  is 
large  and  increasing,  and  some  of  the 
immense  elevators  Aviil  repay  a  visit  from 
the  stranger  in  the  West.  A  street  rail- 
way affords  ready  access  to  the  several 

177 


SrRINGFIELD.1 


OHIO. 


[Newark. 


points  of  interest.  Population,  23,000, 
and  increasing  rapidly.  Direct  commu- 
nication Avith  j3etroit,  Michigan  (G4  miles), 
via  Monroe. 

S  c  la  i  a  ,  the  capital  of  Greene 
County,  is  on  the  Zllde  3Iiaml,  and 
Columbus  and  Xenia  Railway,  65  miles 
from  Cincinnati,  and  55  from  Columbus. 
Springfield  is  19  miles  distant.  It  is 
handsomely  laid  out  and  lighted  witli  gas. 
The  Court-House  is  an  imposing  edifice. 
Population,  6,500. 

S  p  a-  i  ii  g;  li  c  i  cl, — Hotel,  Vy^'JUs 
House. 

Springfield,  84  miles  above  Cincinnati, 
on  the  direct  route  thence  from  Sandusky 
City  on  Lake  Erie,  and  130  miles  below 
Sandusky,  is  an  important  railroad  point. 
Dayton  is  25  miles  distant  by  rail.  The 
Mad  Kiver  and  the  Lagonda  Creek  meet 
at  Springfield.  These  rapid  waters  aflord 
abundant  and  fine  mill-sites,  which  are 
all  well  employed  by  the  manufactories 
of  the  town.  This  city  is  regarded  as  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  in  the  State,  both 
in  its  position  and  construction.  It  was 
laid  out  in  1803.  WiLicnbcrg  College 
(Lutheran)  is  a  short  distance  from  the 
city.  The  birthplace  of  the  famous  In- 
dian warrior,  Tecumseh,  is  five  Diiles 
west.     Population  in  1860,  7,150. 

llcilcibsitsiiiic  is  on  the  Sandiis- 
kif,  Dayton,  and  Cincinnati  lio.ihcay,  98 
miles  south  of  the  former,  and  11*7  miles 
north  of  the  latter  city.  The  Bdlefoniaine 
liailway  intersects  the  main  line  here, 
and  connects  the  town  with  Terre  Haute 
and  St.  Louis.  In  the  neighborhood  are 
some  fine  springs,  whence  the  name  Fine 
Tountain,  is  derived.     It  was  laid  out  in 

1820,  and  has  a  population  of  nearly  3,000. 
I'lilim,  the  capital  of  Seneca  County, 

is  on  the  Sandusky  Kiver  and  /Satidusky, 
JJayton,  and  Cincinnati  liailway,  34  miles 
southwest  of  Sandusky,  and  181  miles 
north  of  Cincinnati.     It  was  laid  out  in 

1821,  and  has  a  population  of  nearly  5,000. 

iJoliiiii.l»iL@. — Hotel,  Neil  House. 

Routes. — From  New  York,  Philadel- 
phia, and  intermediate  places,  see  Cin- 
cinnati for  route  tlicncc  to  that  city,  as 
far  as  Columbus.  From  Cleveland  (Lake 
Erie),  soutlnvest,  135  miles,  })ylhe  Cleve- 
land, Columbus,  and  Cincinnati  road ; 
from  Cincinnati,  by  the  sauic  route,  north- 
east, 120  miles;  from  Wheeling, Va.  (see 

178 


Bellaire),  terminus  of  the  Baltimore  and 
Ohio  road,  137  miles  west,  by  the  Ohio 
Central;  from  Pittsburg,  by  the  Pitts- 
burg, Columbus,  and  Cincinnati  Hailway, 
209  miles. 

Columbus  is  near  the  centre  of  the 
State,  upon  the  banks  of  the  Scioto 
Piiver,  90  miles  from  its  debouchure  on 
the  Ohio.  It  was  founded  in  1812,  and 
in  1860  had  a  population  of  nearly  19,000. 
It  is  the  centre  of  a  rich  country,  which 
is  daily  adding  to  its  extent  and  opu- 
lence. Some  of  the  principal  streets  are 
100  and  120  feet  in  width,  and  elegantly 
built.  Many  of  the  public  edifices  are  of 
a  very  striking  character.  The  Capitol, 
which  is  constructed  of  hmestone  resem- 
bling marble,  has  a  facade  of  more  than 
300  feet,  and  an  elevation,  to  the  top  of  the 
rotunda,  of  157  feet.  It  occupies  the  centre 
of  the  public  square,  and  near  the  site  of 
the  old  State-House,  burnt  January  1, 
1852.  An  artesian  vrell,  2,775  feet  deep,  has 
been  sunk  without  reaching  water.  Among 
the  other  most  noteworthy  buildings  are 
the  Ohio  Lunatic  Asylum,  the  Institution 
for  the  Blind,  the  Asylum,  for  the  Deaf 
and  Dumb,  and  the  State  Benitcntiary. 
The  last-named  building  is  an  imposing 
edifice  of  Ohio  marble,  coverinsr,  with  the 
adjacent  workshops,  a  square  of  six 
acres'  extent.  The  Starling  Medical  Col- 
lege, endowed  by  the  late  Lyne  Starling, 
was  established  here  some  years  ago. 
It  occupies  a  Gothic  edifice  of  brick, 
capped  with  a  whitish  limestone.  The 
present  population  of  Columbus  is  esti- 
mated at  21,300. 

At  Eastwood,  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  the  city,  the  traveller  may  have  au 
opportunity  of  seeing  the  gardens  of  the 
Columbus  Horticultural  Societv,  and  the 
grounds  of  the  Franklin  County  Agricid- 
tural  Society. 

NcAvark,  the  capital  of  Licking 
County,  is  well  situated  at  the  forks  of 
the  Licking  Kiver,  on  the  Ohio  Canal, 
and  at  the  junction  of  the  Fittsburg, 
Colnmbiis,  and  Cincinnati  and  the  San- 
dusky, Mansfiild,  and  Newark  Bail- 
ways.  It  is  33  miles  east  of  Columbus, 
117  miles  south  of  Sandusky,  and  104 
miles  west  of  Wheeling,  Va.  Cannel  coal 
and  sandstone  abound  in  the  vicinity.  It 
was  laid  out  in  1801,  and  contains  a  pop- 
ulation of  about  6,000. 


Bellaike.] 


OHIO. 


[Cleveland. 


Belial  ire  is  a  small  town  on  the 
Ohio  Eiver,  opposite  Wheelinc;,  and  the 
point  of  intersection  between  the  Jjalti- 
niore  and  Ohio  RailroacJ^  and  the  Cen- 
tral Ohio^  leading  west  and  north.  Feny 
between  Bellaire  and  Wheeling.  Meals 
served  on  board  the  boat. 

Cleveland. — Hotels:  the  Ken- 
narcl  Jlouse,  one  of  the  best  in  the  West ; 
the  WeddcU  House,  Bank  and  Superior 
Streets ;  the  Angier  House,  Bank  and  St. 
Clair  Streets. 

RoLTES. — From  New  York,  by  -the 
Nevj  York  and  Erie  Railway,  to  Dun- 
kirk, on  Lake  Erie,  460  miles ;  thence 
the  lake  pteamers,  or  the  Lake  Shore 
Ixailway  {via  Erie),  143  miles.  Total, 
Nev>^  York  to  Cleveland,  603  miles.  Or, 
from  New  Yo-rk  by  New  York  and  Hj'ie 
Mailwoy  to  Salamanca  (414  miles),  and 
thence  by  the  Ailardic  and  Great  Western 
Railway  to  Cleveland.  Total  distance, 
629  nnles,  without  change  of  cars.  From 
Philadelphia,  viei  Pennsylvania  Railroael, 
355  miles  to  Pittsburg,  and  thence  by 
Cleveland  and  Pittsburg  Railway  (150 
miles).  Total,  505  miles.  From  Balti- 
more, via  Harrisburg,  thence  to  Pitts- 
burg, Pa.,  or  by  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio 
route  to  Wheeling,  etc. 

Cleveland,  the  second  city  of  Ohio,  is 
beautifully  situated  on  the  south  shore 
or  bluff  of  Lake  Erie,  at  the  mouth  of 
Cuyahoga  Kiver,  and  at  the  terminus  of 
the  Cleveland.,  Cohcmhus,  and  Cincinnati 
Raiheay,  258  miles  northeast  of  the  lat- 
ter city.  It  is  one  of  the  handsomest 
cities  of  the  Union.  The  profusion  of 
shade-trees  which  adorn  it  streets  have 
earned  for  it  the  title  of  the  "  Forest 
City."  It  is  laid  out  with  broad,  wcll-pavcd 
streets,  occasionally  varied  with  open 
squares,  giving  to  the  city  a  very  pleasiug 
geiieral  appearance. 

Near  the  centre  of  the  city  is  a  public 
square  of  ten  acres,  in  which  stands  the 
monument  to  Commodore  Perry,  inaugu- 
rated September  8,  1860.  The  pedestal 
is  of  Bhode  Island  granite.  The  statue  is 
of  Italian  marble,  and  cost  $8,000.  On 
the  v,fest  side  of  the  river  is  another  en- 
closure, known  as  "  the  Circle."  Pros- 
pect and  Euclid  Streets  are  handsome 
promenades,  containing  numerous  ele- 
gant residences. 

The   social  and  municipal  institutions 


of  the  city  are  in  a  highly  creditable  con- 
dition. The  churches  and  schools  espe- 
cially are  numerous  and  excellent.  Vis- 
itors must  not  fail  to  see  the  Medical  Col- 
lege, the  Marine  Hospital,  the  new  Water- 
Works,  which  occupy  the  highest  ground 
west  of  the  river,  and  the  Union  Railroad 
Deyot,  at  which  almost  as  many  passen- 
gers daily  arrive  and  depart  as  at  any 
other  point  in  the  land.  From  the  prom- 
enade, on  the  summit  of  the  Water- 
Works  Reservoir,  a  fine  view  is  obtained 
of  the  city.  Case's  Hcdl'iB  one  of  the  finest 
public  concert  and  lecture  rooms  in  the 
West. 

The  Clevelaiid  library  Atsceiaiion  has 
a  library  of  about  10,000  volumes  ;  also 
a  reading-room,  supplied  with  all  the 
leading  newspapers  and  periodicals,  and 
an  annual  course  of  lectures. 

The  cemeteries  are  among  the  chief 
ornaments  of  the  city.  The  City  Cem^ 
tery,  on  Erie  Street,  has  several  handsome 
monuments. 

Cleveland  was  the  first  settlem.eut 
within  the  limits  of  Cuyahoga  County,  in 
that  part  of  Ohio  which  has  long  been 
known  as  the  Western  Reserve.  It  was 
laid  out  in  October,  1*796,  and  named  in 
honor  of  General  Moses  Cleveland,  a 
native  of  Connecticut.  Originally  the 
town  was  confined  to  the  eastern  shore 
of  the  Cuyahoga,  but  subsequently 
Brookl}Ti,  or  Ohio  City  sprang  up  on 
the  opposite  side,  and  both  parts  are  now 
united  under  one  corporation,  distinguish- 
able only  by  the  bridge  across  the  river. 

Independent  of  its  large  and  increas- 
ing business  by  railway  and  canal, 
Cleveland  carries  on  a  very  consider- 
able and  important  trade  with  the  lake 
country,  more  pai'ticularly  v.ith  the  mi- 
ring region  of  Lake  Superior.  Twenty 
transportation  hues  are  connected  with 
the  port,  giving  daily  steamboat  and  pro- 
peller communication  with  every  impor- 
tant point  on  the  chain  of  lakes.  This 
is  one  of  the  best  points  of  departure 
for  tourist  travel  to  the  Lake  Superior 
region,  (See  Lake  Superior.)  Cleveland 
has  also  attained  eminence  as  a  ship' 
building  port.  The  city  was  settled  in 
1796,  incorporated  in  1836,  and  ia  1865 
had  a  population  of  58,700.  The  assessed 
value  of  city  property  in  1SG4  exceeded 
$22,000,000. 

179 


Zanesville,] 


OHIO. 


[Sandusky. 


Z  auc  svillc  . — Hotels,  Stacy 

House  ;  Zanc  House. 

Zanesville  is  upon  the  route  from  Bal- 
timore to  Columbus,  Cincinnati,  Indian- 
apolis, and  St.  Louis  (see  those  cities  for 
routes  thither) ;  from  Wheeling,  Va.  (see 
Bellaire),  78  miles  by  Central  Ohio 
line ;  from  Columbus,  by  same  road,  59 
miles ;  from  Cincinnati,  via  Cincinnati 
and  Zanesville  road,  168  miles. 

The  position  of  Zanesville,  upon  the 
Muskingum  River,  and  in  the  midst  of  a 
rich  and  populous  valley  region,  promises 
an  indefinite  continuation  of  its  past  suc- 
cess, which  has  been  upon  the  scale  com- 
mon to  the  cities  of  the  Great  West. 
Putnam^  South  Zanesville^  and  West  Zaiies- 
ville,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Muskingum, 
are  connected  with  the  city  proper  by 
bridges.  Settlements  were  first  made 
here  in  1799,  and  here  was  the  seat  of 
the  State  Government  during  the  two 
years  immediately  preceding  the  selection 
of  Columbus  as  the  capital  in  1812.  Esti- 
mated population,  11,250. 

Cliillicotlic. 

Chilhcothe  is  on  the  Scioto  Elver,  and 
the  Ohio  and  Erie  Canal,  45  miles  below 
Columbus,  and  the  same  distance  from 
the  Ohio  at  Portsmouth.  It  is  upon  the 
Cincinnati  and  3Iarietta  Raihvay^  extend- 
ing from  Parkersburg,  on  the  Oliio,  a  ter- 
minus of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  road,  to 
Cincinnati.  Distance  from  Cincinnati  99 
miles  ;  from  Parkersburg,  lOG  miles.  This 
city  was  founded  in  1*790,  and  was  the 
capital  of  the  State  between  the  years 
1800  and  1810.  The  Court-House  is  an 
imposing  stone  edifice,  erected  at  a  cost 
of  g;ioo,ooo. 

The  fine  hill-slopes  v/hich  enclose  the 
valley  site  of  Cliillicothe  contribute  greatly 
to  the  unusually  attractive  aspect  of  the 
landscape  here.  To  describe  tlie  topog- 
raphy of  this  pleasant  city  would  be  but 
to  repeat  what  we  have  already  said  of 
many  other  places  on  the  fruitful  plains 
of  Ohio  and  the  neighboring  States — to 
talk  only  of  spacious  and  regular  streets, 
substantial  and  elegant  buildings,  all  tell- 
ing  elo(|uent  tales  of  prosperity  and  prog- 
ress.    Population  in  1860,  7,'730. 

Stciil>«,'Bivillo,  —  Hotel,  United 
States. 

Steubcnville  is  upon  the  Ohio  Pdver, 
on  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  State, 
180 


and  on  the  great  ("Pan  Handle")  railway 
route  from  Philadelphia,  via  Pittsburg, 
and  from  Baltimore,  via  Wheeling,  Va., 
to  Cincinnati,  and  all  points  in  the  West. 
It  is  270  miles  east  of  Cincinnati,  and  59 
miles  west  of  Pittsburg.  The  history  of 
Steubcnville  dates  from  1798.  Eailroad 
communication  has  of  late  years  given  to 
it,  no  less  than  to  its  neighbors,  a  new 
and  strong  impetus  forward.  The  posi- 
tion of  the  town  is  upon  high  terrace- 
land,  overlooking  a  smiling  and  fertile 
country  in  all  directions.  The  Female 
Seminary,  overlooking  the  Ohio  River, 
which  is  here  about  one-third  of  a  mile 
in  width,  is  a  handsome  edifice,  with  ac- 
commodation for  150  pupils.  Population, 
between  7,000  and  8,000,  upward  of  1,000 
of  whom  are  engaged  in  manufactures. 

Saii€lii^ky, — Hotels,  West  House  ; 
Townsend  House  ;  St.  Laicrence. 

Sandusky  City  is  the  northern  terminus 
of  the  Sandusky,  Dayton,  and  Cincin- 
nati, and  the  Sandusky,  Mansfield,  and 
Newark  Railways.  It  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  south  shore  of  Sandusky 
Bay,  an  inlet  of  Lake  Erie,  on  the  line  of 
the  Lake  Shore  JRailway,  from  Dunkirk 
and  Buffalo  (N.  Y.)  to  Toledo,  Chicago, 
etc.  It  is  distant  from  Cleveland  61 
miles  ;  from  Toledo,  52  miles  ;  from  Cin- 
cinnati, 214  miles ;  from  Dunkirk  {New 
York  and  Erie  road),  208  miles ;  from 
New  York,  662  miles. 

The  city  was  laid  out  by  Connecticut 
emigrants  in  1817.  The  first  church  was 
built  as  late  as  1830.  Now  the  city  is 
one  of  the  most  p'^pulous  and  opulent  in 
Northern  Ohio.  Population,  25,000.  Its 
eligible  position  on  the  busy  waters  of 
Lake  Eiie  and  its  beautiful  harbor,  in- 
sure it  continued  growth  and  prosperit)'. 

Port  ssiao  h(  la. 

Portsnioutli  is  upon  the  Ohio  River, 
in  the  southeast  part  of  the  State.  A 
raihvay  ext(nids  northward  to  Ilamden,  on 
the  line  of  the  road  from  Cincinnati  to 
Marietta  and  Parkersburg,  Va.  The  Ohio 
River  steamers,  from  all  points,  call  here. 

Crcifcit  line  is  a  young  railroad  tov.'u 
at  the  intersection  of  the  Cleveland, 
Colnmbus,  and  Cincinnati,  and  Pittshury, 
Fort  Wayne,  and  Chi  cay  o  Railways,  75 
miles  from  Cleveland,  63  miles  from 
Columbus,  and  183  from  Cincinnati.  It 
was  laid  out  in  1851,  and  contains  about 


Akkon.] 


OHIO. 


[Wakren. 


3,000  inhabitants.  It  is  a  general  re- 
freshment station  for  all  through  trains. 
Covtinental  Hotel. 

Urlmiaiaa,  95  miles  from  Cincin- 
nati, on  the  Atlantic  and  Great  Western 
Jiaihnai/,  is  important  as  the  point  of 
intersection  with  the  Columhufi  and  In- 
dianapolis^ and  Sandusky,  Dayton,  and 
Cincinnati  Railways.  It  is  the  seat  of 
justice  of  Champaign  County,  and  con- 
tains nearly  8,000  inhabitants.  The  first 
house  was  built  in  1806.  The  Urbanna 
University  and  Collegiate  Institution  are 
located  here. 

Proceeding  northeast,  we  next  reach 

CKSolioiSL,  164  miles  from  Cincinnati, 
and  282  miles  from  the  eastern  terminus 
of  the  Atlantic  and  Great  M^estern  Iiail- 
way  at  Salamanca.  Crawford  County,  in 
which  Gallon  is  situated,  is  famous  for 
its  beds  of  peat.  Cranberry  Harsh  alone 
is  estimated  to  contain  two  million  and 
a  half  cords.  The  Sulphur  Springs,  near 
Bucyrus,  the  county  seat,  are  sometimes 
visited  by  travellers. 

MsBiaslield,  179  miles  from  Cin- 
cinnati, by  the  Atlantic  road,  and  176 
miles  from  Pittsburg,  on  the  Fort  Wayne 
and  Chicago  road,  is  pleasantly  situated 
on  elevated  ground,  in  Richjand  County. 
Noted  for  its  fine  horses  and  cattle.  The 
Sandusky,  Dayton,  and  Newark  Hailway 
connects  it  with  those  cities.  It  was  set- 
tled in  1808  by  Colonel  Jared  Mansfield, 
after  whom  it  is  named.  Population, 
about  6,000. 

"^Vest  Salem  lies  in  the  centre  of 
the  great  butter  region  of  Wayne  County, 
219  miles  from  Cincinnati  by  the  Atlantic 
and  Great  Westetm  Railway.  Here  pas- 
sengers on  the  night  trains  from  Cincin- 
nati usually  breakfast. 

Ali:roiiis  at  the  point  of  intersection 


between  the  Atlantic  and  Great  Western^ 
and  the  Cleveland  and  Za7icsville,  and  Cin- 
cinnati Railways,  246  miles  from  the  last- 
named  city,  and  202  miles  southwest  of 
Salamanca.  The  Ohio  and  Erie  and  Ohio 
and  Pennsylvania  Canals  also  connect  at 
this  point.  Flour  is  extensively  manu- 
factured by  means  of  the  water-power  in 
the  canals  and  Little  Cuyahoga  Piiver. 
Mineral  paint  is  exported  in  large  quan- 
tities. 

Kent,  on  the  Cuyahoga  River,  10 
miles  fiom  Akron,  has  extensive  work- 
shops and  factories.  It  was  formerly 
called  Franklin  Mills.  Rrad^fs  Pond  and 
Brady'^s  Leap,  on  the  Cuyahoga  River, 
two  miles  from  the  town,  afibid  pleasant 
rambles. 

ISaveiana,  263  miles  from  Cincin- 
nati, by  the  Atlantic  road,  and  88  miles 
southeast  of  Cleveland,  by  the  Cleveland 
and  Pittsburg  road,  is  pleasantly  situated 
on  a  plain  near  the  branch  of  the  Cuy- 
ahoga River.  It  was  settled  in  1799,  and 
contains  a  population  of  3,000. 

"IVarreBi,  the  county  seat  of  Trum- 
bull County,  is  on  the  Mahoning  River 
and  Atlantic  and  Great  Western  Railway  ; 
162  miles  west  of  Salamanca,  and  286 
miles  northeast  of  Cincinnati.  The  Penn- 
sylvania and  Ohio  Canal  connects  the 
town  with  Lake  Erie  and  the  Ohio  River. 

Y  o  "Bi  11  g:  s  t  ©  "W  Bi  ,  in  Mahoning 
County,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
Mahoning  River,  17  miles  from  Leavitts- 
burg,  whence  it  connects,  via  the  At- 
lantic and  Great  Western  Raihray,  with 
Cincinnati  (283  miles),  and  Salamanca, 
N.  Y.  (165  miles).  Extensive  iron  manu- 
factories are  located  here. 

(For  continuation  of  this  route  east- 
ward to  Salamanca  and  New^  York,  see 
Erie  Railroad.) 

181 


Indiana.] 


INDIANA. 


[Indiana. 


I]^DIANA. 


Indiana,  the  fifth  State  in  the  Union 
in  population,  extends  about  2*75  iniles 
from  north  to  south,  and  135  from  east  to 
west.  On  the  north  is  the  Lalve  and 
State  of  Michigan  ;  on  the  east  Ohio  ;  on 
the  soutli  Kentucky  (across  the  Ohio 
Eiver) ;  and  on  the  west  Illinois  (across 
the  Wabash). 

There  is  little  in  the  history  of  the 
State  to  interest  the  traveller.  It  was 
first  settled  by  the  French  traders  and 
missionaries,  who  remained  till  after  the 
close  of  the  American  Revolution.  In 
1800  it  became  a  Territorial  government, 
and  in  1816  an  independent  State.  The 
battle  of  Tippecanoe,  in  1811,  in  which 
the  Shawnee  Indians  were  routed  by  tb.e 
United  States  forces,  under  General  Har- 
rison, is  the  only  military  event  recorded 
in  the  history  of  the  State. 

Topographically,  this  State  bears  a 
great  resemblance  to  its  neighboi',  Ohio. 
In  the  south,  bordering  on  the  Ohio,  is 
the  same  hilly  surface ;  and  above,  the 
eame,  undulating  or  level  land,  of  a  more 
marked  prairie  character  sometimes,  and 
perhaps  more  of  barrens  and  marshes 
northward.  In  this  direction  a  great  pine 
tract  abuts  on  Lake  Michigan  in  sand- 
hills of  200  feet  elevation.  The  river 
lands  are  almost  always  rich  and  fertile. 
As  in  surface,  so  in  soil  and  climate,  In- 
diana is  very  like  Illinois.  In  the  produc- 
tion of  Indian  corn  she  is  the  fourth  State 
in  the  Union,  Illinois  being  the  first.  The 
other  products  are  much  the  same  as 
those  we  have  credited  to  her  great  sister 
State.  (See  Ohio.)  Coal,  iron,  copper, 
marble,  freestone,  lime,  and  gypsum  are 
found  here.  Tlie  State  is  divided  into 
ninety-one  counties,  and  contained  in 
1800  a  population  of  1,350,428,  of  whom 
2'JO  were  Indians.  Indianapolis  is  the 
capital,  and  chief  commercial  city;  New 
182 


Albany,  Evansville,  Fort  Wayne,  Lafay- 
ette, and  Terre  Haute,  are  prosperous 
tovv-ns,  with  a  population  ranging  from 
10,000  to  15,000  each. 

The  Ohio  forms  the  entire  southern 
boundary  of  Indiana,  and  receives  the 
waters  of  nearly  all  the  other  rivers  of 
the  State.     (See  Ohio  Eiver,  Map,  etc.) 

The  Wabash^  next  to  the  Ohio,  the 
largest  river  of  the  region,  flows  500 
miles,  crossing  the  State,  and  separating 
it  in  the  lower  half  from  Illinois.  It  is 
the  largest  tributary — from  the  north — 
of  the  Ohio,  which  it  enters  140  miles 
from  the  Mississippi.  In  its  passage  it 
passes  Huntington,  Lafayette,  Attica, 
Terre  Haute,  Covington,  and  other  towns. 
It  is  navigable  at  high  water  for  nearly 
400  miles.  The  Wabash  and  Erie  Canal 
follovrs  its  course  from  Huntington  to 
Terre  Haute,  180  miles. 

The  White  River,  the  principal  tribu- 
tary of  the  Wabash,  is  formed  by  the 
two  branches  called  the  East  and  West 
Forks,  which  vmite  near  Petersburg.  It 
enters  the  Wabash,  after  a  course  of 
some  30  milei,  nearlv  opposite  Mount 
Carmel,  Illinois.  The'  West  Fork,  the 
longest  branch  of  the  White  River  flows 
southwest  nearly  300  miles  through 
the  centre  of  the  State,  passing  among 
other  places,  Muncie,  Anderson,  Indian- 
apolis, Martinsville,  and  Bloomfield.  On 
the  East  Fork  are  New  Castle,  Shelby- 
ville,  Columbus,  and  Rockford.  This  fork 
is  200  miles  in  length.  It  is  sometimes 
called  Blue  River,  until  it  reaches  Sugar 
Creek,  near  Edinburg. 

The  Ilaumce,  which  is  formed  in  In- 
diana by  the  St.  Joseph's  and  the  St. 
Mary's  Rivers,  passes  into  Ohio,  where 
we  have  already  met  it.  Besides  these 
rivers,  there  are  many  other  lesser  waters. 
Lake  Michigan  washes  the  northern  bor- 


Indianapolis.] 


INDIANA. 


[Indianapolis. 


dcr  of  the  State  for  40  miles.  (See  Lake 
Michigan.)  In  this  region  there  are  also 
a  number  of  small  lakes  and  ponds. 

The  most  interesting  natural  curiosities 
in  the  State  (the  peculiar  landscape  fea- 
tures of  the  region,  in  prairie  reaches 
and  richly  wooded  river  banks  excepted) 
are  the  numerous  and  remarkable  caves. 

Tlie  Wyandotte  Cave,  in  Crawford  Coun- 
ty, 11  miles  from  Corydon,  is  a  wonder- 
ful place,  thought  by  many  to  equal  in  its 
marvels  the  famous  Mammoth  Cave  of 
Kentucky.  It  has  been  explored  for  a 
number  of  miles,  and  has  been  found 
rich  in  magnificent  chambers  and  gal- 
leries, in  stalactites  and  other  calcareous 
concretions. 

Epsom  Salts  Cave  is  another  notable 
place.  It  is  on  the  side  of  a  hill,  400  feet 
in  height,  on  the  Big  Blue  River.  Among 
its  wonders  is  a  white  column  30  feet 
high  and  15  feet  in  diameter.  It  is  regu- 
larly and  beautifully  fluted,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  other  formations  of  the  same 
character.  Epsom  salts,  nitre,  gypsum, 
and  aluminous  earth  are  found  in  the 
soil  of  the  floor  here.  A  curious  object 
is  found  within  the  cave  in  the  shape  of  a 
picture  of  an  Indian  rudely  painted  on  the 
rock. 

Ancient  Hounds  and  earthworks  are 
scattered  over  this  State,  as  through 
Ohio. 

Railvays. — In  our  peep  at  Ohio,  we 
have  alluded  to  the  wonderful  network 
of  railroads,  which  so  marks  that  State 
and  its  neighbors  both  east  and  west. 
These  iron  roads  link  all  parts  of  In- 
diana to  each  other,  and  unite  it  closely 
with  every  part  of  the  Union  from  the  At- 
lantic to  the  Mississippi.  The  railways 
here,  as  in  Ohio  on  the  one  side,  and 
Illinois  on  the  other,  are  links  of  the  great 
highways  across  the  continent  westward. 
Indianapolis  is  the  chief  radiating  point 
of  the  railway  system  of  this  State,  as 
Cincinnati  is  of  Ohio  and  Chicago  of  Il- 
linois, and  thence  the  traveller  has  ready 
access  to  every  part  of  the  Union. 

liiciianapolise  —  Hotels,  Bates 
House  and  the  American. 

The  locale  of  Indianapolis  is  at  once 
attractive  and  commanding.  It  is  situ- 
ated on  the  west  fork  of  White  River, 
near  the  mouth  of  Fall  Creek,  115  miles 
northwest   of  Cincinnati,  and  200  south- 


southeast  of  Chicago.  It  was  selected 
for  the  State  capital  in  1820,  at  vvhich 
time  the  whole  region  v.-as  a  dense 
forest.  Five  years  later,  the  public  of- 
fices were  removed  hither  from  Corydon, 
and  now  bi'oad,  beautiful,  and  popu- 
lous streets,  lined  with  costly  and  elegant 
edifices  and  dwellings,  are  every  year 
spreading  farther  and  farther  over  the 
great  plain  which  surrounds  the  young 
city. 

The  Raihcaii  Station  here  is  an  edifice 
of  magnificent  proportions,  with  a  front- 
age of  350  feet.  Some  of  the  very  many 
cinirches  are  imposing  structures.  The 
State-House  is  a  fine  building,  ISO  feet  in 
length,  ornamented  on  each  side  with  a 
grand  Doric  portico,  and  surmounted  by  a 
noble  dome.  The  Court-Rouse,  the  Ma- 
sonic Hcdl,  and  the  Bates  Hotel  will  at- 
tract the  particular  notice  of  the  visitor 
here.  Washington  /&yeet  is  a  handsome 
thoroughfare,  120  feet  in  width,  and  con- 
tains the  principal  public  buildings. 
•  Indianapohs  is  the  seat  of  the  Indiana 
Mediccd  College,  founded  in  1849;  here, 
too,  is  the  Sicde  Lu7iatic  Asylum,  estab- 
lished in  1848.  Estimated  population, 
38,000.  Trains  run  daily  from  the  Union 
Depot  over  the  following  roads,  viz. : 

Indianapolis  and  Madison  Railway, 
to  Franklin  (20  miles) ;  Edinburg  (30 
miles);  Columbus  (41  miles);  North 
Vernon  (62  miles);  Madison  (86  miles), 
on  the  Ohio  River,  where  it  connects  with 
the  mail  steamers. 

Indianapolis,  Peru,  and  Chicago  Rail- 
u)ay,  to  Kokcmo  (54  miles) ;  Chicago  and 
Great  Eastern  Railroad  crossing  (55 
miles) ;  Peru  {^i^  miles),  connecting  with 
the  Toledo,  Wabash,  and  Western  Rail- 
way. 

Indianapolis  and  Cincinnati  Raibvay, 
to  Shelbyville  (26  miles) ;  Greensburg 
(46  miles) ;  Laurenceburg  (90  miles) ; 
Cincinnati  (IVS  miles). 

Columbus  and  Indianapolis .  (Indiana 
Central)  Railway,  to  Richmond  (69 
miles);  Urbana  (141  miles);  Milford 
(ISO  miles);  Columbus,  Ohio  (188  miles), 

Bdlefontaine  Railway  (Indianapolis, 
Pittsburg,  and  Cleveland),  to  Union  (84 
miles) ;  Behefontaine  (142  miles) ;  Marion 
182  miles) ;  Crestline  (207  miles) ;  Cleve- 
land (282  miles). 

Tcrre  Haute   and   Indianapolis  RaiU 

183 


New  Albany.] 


INDIANA. 


[Jeffejrsonville. 


way^  to  Grecncastle  (39  miles) ;  Terre 
Haute  (73  miles),  thence  via  St.  Louis, 
Allan,  and  Tcrre  Haute  Railway,  to  Mat- 
toon  (129  miles) ;  Pana  (168  miles) ;  Al- 
ton (2-17  miles),  and  St.  Louis  (273  miles). 

Jcjjersonvillc  Line,  to  Columbus  (41 
miles) ;  Seymour  (59  miles) ;  Jetlerson- 
rille  (108  miles),  where  connection  is 
made  with  steamers  on  the  Ohio  for 
Louisville,  Cincinnati,  etc. 

Layfaydte  and  Indianapolis  Railnay, 
to  Lebanon  (28  miles) ;  Coltiix  (43  miles) ; 
stage  to  Frankfort,  Lafayette  (04  miles). 

The  above  roads  and  their  connections 
afford  commuuiccition  between  Indianap- 
olis and  every  portion  of  the  Union. 

Ne^>^  Albany. — Hotel,  the  JDc 
Paw  House 

New  Albany,  the  second  city  of  the 
State,  is  upon  the  Ohio  llivei",  four  miles 
below  Louisville,  and  two  uiiles  below 
the  Falls.  From  Cincinnati  it  is  di.-^taut 
136  miles.  (See  Cincinnati  and  Louis- 
ville for  routes  to  those  points.)  It  is^ 
the  southern  terminus  of  the  Louisville, 
I^^an  Albany,  and  Chicago  Railway, 
"which  extends  288  miles  to  Michigan 
City,  on  Lake  Michigan,  where  it  con- 
nects with  the  Michigan  Central  io  Chica- 
go and  the  Northwest,  and  railways 
for  Detroit,  Niagara,  and  the  Canadas,  and 
with  the  Lake  Shore  line  to  New  York, 
via  Dunkirk  and  Duffiilo.  Steamboats  ar- 
rive and  depan  continually  for  all  land- 
ings on  the  Ohio  and  the  Mississippi 
liivers  and  their  tributaries.  Ihe  town 
was  laid  out  in  1813.  In  18G0  its  popu- 
lation numbered  some  13,0(J0,  and  it  is 
now  estimated  at  18,700.  The  aspect  of 
this  city  is  very  like  that  of  most  towns  on 
the  level  prairie  lauds  of  the  West,  broad, 
regular,  well-built,  and  agreeably  shaded 
streets,  with  a  general  air  of  life  and 
prosperity.  It  contains  numerous  line 
church  edifices  and  several  good  schools. 
Steamboat  building  is  extensively  carried 
on.  The  Collegiate  Listitute  and  27uv- 
logical  (Fresbyterian)  Seminary  are  nour- 
ishing institutions. 

Msi4lisoii. — Hotel,  Madison  Hotel. 

Madi.sou  is  upon  the  Ohio,  90  miles 
below  Cincinnati ;  40  miles  above  Louis- 
ville ;  and  80  miles  southeast  of  Indian- 
ajiolis,  by  the  Lalianajiolvi  and  Madison 
Railway,  of  which  it  is  the  southern  ter 
minus.  From  Cincinnati  take  the  steam 
184 


ers  on  the  Ohio  River,  or  the  Ohio  and 
Mississippi  Raihvay  to  Yernon,  73  miles, 
and  thence  via  Indianapolis  and  Madison 
Railway.  The  city  is  situated  in  a  pleas- 
ant valley,  of  three  miles'  extent,  shut  in 
on  the  north  by  bold  hi!ls,  400  feet  in 
height.  It  was  first  settled  in  ISOS,  and 
now  contains  a  population  of  nearly 
15,000.  Steamboats  aie  extensively  built, 
owned,  and  run  here. 

•Iclici'soia'^'ille,  the  southern  ter- 
minus of  the  Jcfferso7iville  Railway,  is 
advantageously  situated  on  the  Ohio,  108 
miles  south  of  Indianapolis,  nearly  op- 
posite the  city  of  Louisville,  of  which, 
with  tie  adjacent  falls,  it  commands  a 
fine  view.  The  river  at  this  point  is 
nearly  a  mile  wide,  and  has  a  swift  cur- 
rent. The  Indiana  State  Prison  is  well 
worth  visiting.     Population,  about  5,000. 

l^'os't  ^"I'ayiae^  in  the  northeast 
part  of  the  State,  is  an  important  railway 
centre  at  the  junction  of  the  Pittsburg 
and  Chicago  with  the  Toledo  and  Wabash 
Railway.  The  St.  Joseph's  and  St.  Ma- 
ry's Rivers  form  the  Maumee  at  thispcict, 
and  the  AV abash  and  Erie  Canal  comes  in 
122  miles  from  Lafayette,  and  112  miles 
from  Indianapolis.  Fort  Wayne  was  the 
ancient  site  of  the  Twight-wee  village  of 
the  Miami  Indians.  The  fort,  which  gives 
its  name  to  the  town,  was  erected  here  m 
1794,  by  the  command  of  General  Wayne. 
It  continued  to  be  a  military  post  until 
1819.  The  Miamis  were  not  removed 
westward  until  1841.    Population  11,000. 

'I'ei-rc  Iluule. — Hotel,  the  Tcrre 
Haute  House. 

Terre  Haute,  the  seat  of  justice  of 
Yigo  County,  is  on  the  cast  bank  of  the 
"Wabash  River,  near  the  western  boun- 
dary of  the  State.  The  town  is  most 
pleasantly  situated  upon  a  bank  00  feet 
above  the  Wabash.  Fort  Hanison  Prai- 
rie, which  sweeps  away  to  the  eastward, 
is  famous  for  its  charming  landscape. 
Pork,  grain,  and  fiour  are  largely  export- 
ed by  the  Wabash  and  Erie  Canal,  which 
passes  through  the  city.  Railway  con- 
nection with  Indianapolis  (73  miles)  and 
St.  Louis  (189  miles),  by  the  Tcrre  Haute, 
Alton,  and  St.  Louis  Railway,  The 
Evansville  and  Crawfordsville  Railway 
connects  it  with  Evansville  (109  miles), 
and  with  Rockville  (23  miles).  Popula- 
tion (estimated),  9,000. 


Lafayette.] 


INDIANA. 


[Richmond. 


H.  S4  fa  y  e  1 1  e  . — Hotel,  Bramble 
Mouse. 

Lafayette  is  pleasantly  situated  upon 
the  Wabash  River  and  the  Wabash  and 
Erie  Canal,  at  the  intersection  of  the 
Zovisville,  Kcio  Albany,  and  Chicago 
Railroad  with  the  Toledo  and  ]Vabash 
road.  It  is  64  miles  northwest  of  In- 
dianapolis, and  1'23  miles  southeast  of 
Chicago,  with  both  of  which  cities  it  has 
immediate  connection  by  rail.  It  is  the 
principal  grain  market  of  the  State.  It 
was  settled  in  1825,  and  contains  a  popu- 
lation now  estimated  at  nearly  12,000. 

EvasasTille, — Hotel,  the  Pavilion 
Hold. 

Evansville  is  upon  the  high  bank  of  the 
Ohio,  near  the  southwest  extremity  of  the 
State,  200  miles  from  the  Mississippi,  and 
the  same  distance  below  Louisville,  in 
Kentucky.  It  is  the  southern  terminus 
of  the  Evansville  and  Crairford-nnlle  Rail- 
xoay  and  of  the  W^ abash  and  Erie  Canal, 
completed  in  1853.  Among  the  most 
prominent  buildings  are  the  Vourt-Hovse, 
State  Bank,  Marine  Hospital,  and  two  or 
three   of   the    church   edifices.      Large 


shipments  of  grain  and  pork,  the  pro- 
ducts of  southeastern  Indiana,  are  made 
here  by  steamboat.  Flour  is  extensively 
milled  here,  and  there  are  several  large 
breweries.     Topulation,  12,000. 

ISicEimosK^l  is  situated  on  a  fork 
of  Whitewater  Kiver,  four  miles  from 
the  Ohio  State  line,  69  miles  from  Indian- 
apolis, the  capital,  and  70  northwest  of 
Cincinnati.  It  is  a  growing  town,  and 
has  several  flourishing  manufactories  of 
cotton,  wool,  iron,  paper,  and  flour.  The 
river  furnishes  abundant  water-power, 
which  is  very  generally  taken  advantage 
of  by  the  inhabitants,  for  it  has  become 
the  chief  manufacturing  town  in  the 
State.  Kichmond  has  ten  or  twelve 
churches,  a  public  library,  a  branch  of  the 
State  Bank  of  Indiana,  two  fire  compa- 
nies, and  a  large  number  of  retail  stores. 
It  is  the  centre  of  a  rich  and  populous 
agricultural  district,  with  which  it  docs  an 
active  trade.  The  population  is  estimated 
at  about  8,500.  The  Chieago  and  Great 
Eastern  and  Cincinnati,  Eaton,  and  Rich' 
mond  Raihoays,  connect  here,  and  pass 


through  the  town. 


185 


Illinois.] 


ILLINOIS. 


[Illinois. 


ILLINOIS. 


Illinois,  the  fourth  State  of  the  Union 
in  population,  and  the  first  in  the  pro- 
duction of  breadstuff's,  extends  north- 
v/ard  380  miles,  and  v.^estward  (at 
the  extremest  point)  200  miles.  It  is 
bounded  by  Wisconsin  on  the  north. 
Lake  Michigan  and  Indiana  on  the  east, 
Kentucky  on  the  south  (the  Ohio  be- 
tween), and  Missouri  and  Iowa  on  the  west, 
the  Mississippi  River  intervening.  The 
general  surface  of  the  country  here,  as  in 
Indiana  and  Ohio,  is  that  of  elevated 
table-lands,  inclining  southward,  though 
it  is  more  level  than  the  neighboring 
States.  In  the  lower  portions  there  is  a 
small  stretch  of  hilly  land,  and  some 
broken  tracts  in  the  northwest ;  and  upon 
the  Illinois  River  there  are  lofty  bluffs, 
and  yet  higher  and  bolder  points  on  the 
Mississippi. 

The  great  landscape  feature  of  Illinois 
is  its  prairies,  which  are  seen  in  almost 
every  section  of  the  State.  The  want  of 
variety,  which  is  ordinarily  essential  to 
landscape  attraction,  is  more  than  compen- 
sated for  in  the  prairie  scenery,  as  in  that 
of  the  boundless  ocean,  by  the  impressive 
qualities  of  immensity  and  power.  Far 
as  the  most  searching  eye  can  reach,  the 
gi-eat  unvarj'ing  plain  rolls  on  ;  its  sub- 
lime grandeur  softened  but  not  v.eakened 
by  the  occasional  groups  of  trees  in  its 
midst,  or  by  the  forests  on  its  verge,  or 
by  the  countless  flowers  everywhere  upon 
its  surface.  The  prairies  abound  in  game. 
The  prairie  duck,  sometimes  but  im- 
properly called  grouse,  are  most  abun- 
dant in  September  and  October,  when 
large  numbers  are  annually  taken. 

Perhaps  the  most  striking  picture  of 
the  prairie  country  is  to  be  found  on 
Grand  Pi-airic.  Its  gently  undulating 
plains,  profusely  decked  with  flowers  of 
every  hu",  and  skirted  on  all  sides  bv 
ISG 


woodland  copse,  roll  on  through  many 
long  miles  from  Jackson  County,  north- 
east to  Iroquois  County,  with  a  width 
varying  from  one  to  a  dozen  or  more 
miles.  The  uniform  level  of  the  prairie 
region  is  supposed  to  result  from  the  de- 
posit of  waters  by  which  the  land  was 
ages  ago  covered.  The  soil  is  entirely 
free  from  stones,  and  is  extremely  fertile. 
The  most  notable  cliaracteristic  of  the 
prairies,  their  destitution  of  vegetation, 
excepting  in  the  multitude  of  rank 
grasses  and  flowers,  will  gradually  dis- 
appear, since  nothing  prevents  the  growth 
of  the  trees  but  the  continual  fires  which 
sweep  over  the  plains.  These  prevented, 
a  fine  growth  of  timber  soon  springs  up ; 
and  as  the  woodlands  are  thus  assisted 
in  encroaching  upon  and  occupying  the 
plains,  settlements  and  habitations  will 
follow,  until  the  prairie  tracts  are  over- 
run with  cities  and  towns.  Of  the  thirty- 
five  and  a  half  millions  of  acres  embraced 
witliin  the  State,  but  thirteen  millions,  or 
little  more  than  one-third,  were  improved 
in  1860,  showing  that,  despite  her  won- 
derful i)rogress  in  population  and  pro- 
duction, she  is  yet  only  in  her  infancy. 
Excepting  the  specialty  of  the  prairie, 
the  most  interesting  landscape  scenery  of 
this  State  is  that  of  the  bold,  acclivitous 
river  sliores  of  the  Mississippi,  the  Ohio, 
and  the  Illinois  Rivers. 

The  ogrhuItKral  capahiUtics  of  Illi- 
nois are  unsurpassed  by  those  of  any 
other  State  in  the  L^nion.  The  soil  on 
the  river  bottoms  is  often  25  or  30 
feet  deep,  and  the  upper  prairie  districts 
are  hardly  less  productive.  The  richest 
tracts  in  the  State  are  the  Great  Amer- 
ican Bottom,  lying  along  the  Missis- 
sippi, between  the  mouths  of  the  Mis- 
souri and  the  Kaskaskia  Rivers,  a  stretch 
of  80   miles,  the   country  on  the  Rock 


Illinois.] 


ILLINOIS. 


[Illinois. 


Eiver  and  its  branches,  and  that  around 
the  Sangamon  and  other  waters.  Thirty 
to  40  bushels  of  wheat,  or  80  to  100 
bushels  of  Indian  corn  to  the  acre,  is  by 
no  means  an  uncommon  product  here.  In 
the  growth  of  Indian  com,  Illinois  ranks 
as  the  first  State  in  the  Union.  In  re- 
spect to  other  agricultural  staples  and 
products,  what  we  have  said  of  the  ad- 
joining States  of  Ohio  and  Indiana,  may 
be  repeated  of  Illinois  ;  so  of  the  forest- 
trees  of  the  country. 

In  mineral  resources  the  State  is  well 
provided.  She  shares,  with  the  adjoin- 
ing States  of  Iowa  and  Wisconsin,  ex- 
tensive supplies  of  leacH  The  trade  in  this 
mineral  is  the  chief  support  of  the  pros- 
perous town  of  Galena,  in  the  northwest 
part  of  Illinois.  Forty  milKon  of  pounds 
of  lead  were  shipped  from  that  port  in 
1852.  Bituminous  coal  exists  every- 
where, and  may  be  produced  in  many 
places  without  excavation.  The  bluffs, 
near  the  Great  American  Bottom,  con- 
tain immense  beds  of  this  valuable,  pro- 
duet.  Mines  are  worked  near  rcoria, 
and  at  many  points  on  the  line  of  the 
Illinois  CcrJral  Railroad.  In  the  south- 
ern part  of  the  State  iron  is  said  to  be 
abundant ;  and  in  the  north,  copper, 
zinc,  lime,  fine  marbles,  freestone,  gyp- 
sum, and  quartz  crystals.  Silver,  too,  is 
knov,n  to  exist  in  St.  Clair  Coimty.  At 
Peoria,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
city,  is  a  valuable  spring,  strongly  im- 
pregnated with  sulphur. 

Medicinal  springs,  sulphur  and  chalyb- 
eate, are  found  in  various  parts  of  the 
State.  In  Jefferson  County  there  is  a 
spring  very  much  resorted  to,  and  in  the 
southern  part  of  the  State  arc  some 
waters  which  taste  strongly  of  Epsom 
salts. 

The  Mississippi  forms  the  entire  west- 
ern boundary  of  the  State,  and  many  of 
the  most  remarkable  pictures,  for  which 
its  upper  waters  are  famous,  occiu*  in 
this  region — the  tall,  eccentrically  shaped 
bluffs  rising  at  different  points  to  the 
height  of  from  100  to  500  feet.  The  Foxin- 
iahi  Bluff  oi  the  Mississippi  is  in  Jackson 
County ;  it  is  oval-shaped,  is  six  miles  in 
circuit,  and  SOOfeet  in  height.  The  sum- 
mit is  full  of  sink-holes.  (See  Mississippi 
River.) 


The  Illinois,  the  largest  river  of  the 
State,  flows  through  its  centre  south- 
v.-esterly  into  the  Mississippi,  20  miles 
above  Alton.  Exclusive  of  its  brandies, 
the  Des  Plaincs  and  the  Kankakee,  its 
length  is  about  320  miles.  Its  navigable 
waters  extend  at  some  seasons  200  miles 
to  Ottavr-a,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Fox  Iiiver. 
Peoria  is  upon  its  banks,  200  miles  from 
its  mouth. 

The  picturesque  heights  of  the  Illinois, 
called  the  Starved  Rock,  and  the  Zova-^s 
Leap,  are  frequently  visited  by  tourists 
in  search  of  the  curious.  Starved  Pock, 
eight  miles  below  Ottawa,  is  a  grand 
perpendicular  limestone  cliff,  150  feet 
in  height.  It  was  named  in  memory 
of  the  fate  of  a  party  of  Illinois  In- 
dians, who  died  on  the  rock  from  thirst, 
when  besieged  by  the  Pottawatomics. 
Zover^s  Reap  is  a  precipitous  ledge,  just 
above  Starved  Pock,  and  directly  across 
the  river  is  Luffolo  Rock,  a  height  of 
100  feet.  This  eminence,  though  very 
acclivitous  on  the  water  side,  slopes  easily 
inland.  The  Indians  were  wont  to  diive 
the  buffaloes  in  fiightened  herds  to  and 
over  its  fearful  brink.  Peoria  Lake  is  an 
expansion  of  the  Illinois,  near  the  middle 
of  the  State.  Above  Vermilion  River 
there  are  some  rapids,  which  boats  ^  ass 
only  in  periods  of  high  water. 

The  Oliio  bounds  the  State  on  its 
southern  extremity.  It  is  in  this  part  of 
Illinois  (Hardin  County)  that  the  famous 
Cave  in  the  Rock  of  the  Ohio  shore  oc- 
curs.    (See  Ohio  Rivek.) 

The  Wahash,  on  the  eastern  boundary, 
divides  Ihinois  in  the  lower  portion  from 
Indiana.  (See  Indiana.) 

Rock  River  has  its  source  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Lake  Winnebago,  in  Wiscon- 
sin, and  flows  a  distance  of  330  miles  to 
the  Mississippi,  a  little  below  the  town 
of  Rock  Island.  It  enters  Illinois  near 
Beloit,  and  afterward  passes  Rockford 
and  Lixon.  Its  course  is  through  a  rich 
valley  or  plain,  remarkable  for  its  pic- 
torial interest.  The  navigation  of  its 
waters  is  much  obstructed  by  rapids ;  for 
it  is,  unlike  the  sluggish  Illinois,  a  bold, 
swift  stream.  Small  steamboats  ascend 
sometimes,  however,  225  miles,  to  Jef- 
ferson, in  Wisconsin. 

The  Dcs  Plaincs  flows  150  miles  from 

ISY 


Chicago.] 


ILLINOIS. 


[Chicago. 


the  southeast  corner  of  Wisconsin  to 
Dresden,  where  it  unites  with  the  Kan- 
kalvf^e,  and  forms  the  Illinois. 

The  Kankakee  comes  from  the  northern 
part  of  Indiana,  100  miles  to  Dresden. 
Its  course  is  sluggish,  and  through  a 
region  chiefly  occupied  by  prairies  and 
marshes.  This  stream  abounds  in  game, 
and  during  the  duck-shooting  season  is 
much  frequented  by  sportsmen  from 
Chicago  and  neighborhood. 

The  Sangamon  enters  the  Illinois, 
about  10  miles  above  Beardstown,  after  a 
course  of  nearly  200  miles.  Small  steam- 
ers ascend  it  at  high  vrater. 

The  Fox  River  rises  in  Waukesha 
County,  Wisconsin,  and  after  passing  the 
towns  of  Elgin,  St.  Charles,  Geneva,  Ba- 
tavia,  and  Aurora,  falls  into  the  Illinois 
at  Ottawa. 

The  Vermilion,  the  Emharras,  and 
the  Little  Wabash,  are  tributaries  of  the 
Wabash  from  Illinois. 

Lake  Michigan  forms  60  miles  of  the 
northern  boundary  of  the  State.  (See 
Lake  Region.)  Excepting  the  expansion 
of  the  Illinois  River,  called  Lake  Peoria, 
and  the  waters  of  Pishtaka,  in  the  north- 
east, there  are  no  lakes  of  importance. 

Railways  abound  in  Illinois,  as  in  all 
parts  of  the  West.  The  railway  system 
of  Illinois,  of  which  Chicago  is  the  centre, 
embraces  upward  of  3,000  miles  of  track 
completed  and  in  successful  operation. 
In  1850  there  were  less  than  50  miles  of 
railroad  completed  in  the  entire  State. 
(See  Chicago,  for  railways  diverging 
thence.) 

CHICAGO. 

Hotels. — The  Trernont  House  and  the 
Sherman  Hou^e  are  the  leading  hotels  of 
the  city  They  are  both  admira])ly  located 
and  well  kept.  The  latter,  which  is  built 
of  Athens  marble,  is  an  imposing  edifice, 
with  a  frontage  of  340  feet  on  Clark  and 
Randolpli  Streets.  It  was  erected  in  18(50, 
at  a  cost  of  $ iuO,000.  It  is  handsomely 
furnished,  and  has  a  vertical  railway  for 
the  use  of  guests.  The  Richmoml  House, 
pleasantly  situated  on  ^lichigau  Avenue, 
at  the  intersection  of  South  Water  Street, 
and  the  Briggs  House,  on  Randolph 
Street,  corner  of  Wells,  arc  large  and 
well-appointed  establishments. 
188 


The  restaurants  of  the  city,  though 
numerous,  are  but  indifferently  kept. 
That  of  Ambrose  &  Jackson,  at  91 
Clark  Street  (dinners),  is  the  best  worthy 
of  patronage.  ICinslei/^s,  on  Washing- 
ton Street,  under  the  Opera-House,  has 
the  best  ice-creams  and  confectioneries. 
The  main  apartment,  or  refreshment- 
saloon,  is  admirably  arranged  and  fur- 
nished. 

Conveyances,  etc. — The  street  cars, 
Avhich  vv-ere  first  introduced  in  185'7-'58, 
furnish  the  most  readv  means  of  visiting 
the  different  portions  of  the  city.  There 
are  twelve  lines,  rumiing  in  the  three 
divisions  of  the  city,  as  follows :  The 
South  Division,  three  lines,  viz.,  the  Cot- 
tage Grove,  Indiana  Avenue,  and  Thirty- 
first  Street,  to  Bridgeport. ;  in  the  "West 
Division  five  lines,  viz.,  Randolph  Street, 
Madison  Street,  Milwaukee  Avenue,  Ilal- 
sted  and  Blue  Island  Avenue,  and  Clin- 
ton Street ;  and  in  the  North  Division 
four  lines,  viz.,  to  city  limits,  Chicago 
Avenue,  Sedgwick  Street,  and  Clybourne 
Avenue. 

The  pi"incipal  hack-stands  are  on  Court- 
Ilouse  Square,  immediately  opposite  the 
Sherman  House.  The  fares  are  regulated 
by  law,  being  50  cents  for  one  passenger 
for  all  distances  not  exceeding  one  mile. 
Over  one,  and  not  exceeding  two  miles, 
one  dollar.  AVhcn  hacks  are  engaged  by 
the  hour  or  day,  the  price  should  be 
agreed  on  before  starting.  Livery  stables 
are  numerous,  and  generally  well  stocked, 
and  strangers  will  find  it  most  satisfac- 
tory to  order  conveyances  from  them,  as 
they  Avill  thus  be  saved  frequent  over- 
charges and  other  annoyances.  Wright 
Brothers,  2-16  Kinzie  Street,  and  George 
Hall,  47  Wabash  Avenue,  have  both 
good  stables. 

Routes. — Fx'om  New  York. — To  Buf- 
falo or  Niagara  Falls,  by  the  JS'eio  York 
and  Erie  or  the  Hudson  River  and  Cen- 
tral Railways  ;  from  Niagara,  by  the 
Great  Western  Railroad  (Canada)  to  De- 
troit; and  from  L'ctroit,  through  Michigan, 
by  the  JMicJugan  Central  Railroad,  or  from 
Buftalo,  by  the  Lake  Erie  steamers,  or  the 
Lake  Shore  Railway,  via  Erie,  Cleveland, 
and  Sandusky  to  Toledo,  and  thence  by 
the  Michigan  Southern  route.  Distance, 
via  Niagara  Falls  and  Detroit,  963  miles; 
via  Buflalo  and  Toledo,  986  miles. 


well-appointed  establishments. 
188 


1  i7-a  iiuflTlo'andToledo;  986  miles. 


Chicago.] 


ILLINOIS. 


[CniCAGO. 


From  Philadelphia. — Pennsylvania  Cen- 
tral Railroad,  335  miles  to  Pittsburg; 
tlience  by  Fltlslnirg,  J*\>rt  Wa)/7ie,  and 
CJdcago  Railroad.  Total  distance,  823 
miles. 

From  Baltimore. — BalUmore  and  Ohio 
Railivai/  to  Wheeling  and  Bellaire,  and 
thence  via  Pittsburg  and  Fort  Wayne. 

From  New  Orleans,  via  Jackson,  Co- 
lumbus, and  Cairo,  914  miles. 

From  St.  Louis,  via  Alton  and  S^jring- 
field,  280  miles. 

Chicago,  the  largest,  most  populous, 
and  most  important  city  of  Illinois,  and 
the  commercial  metropolis  of  the  North- 
west, is  situated  on  the  western  shore  of 
Lake  Michigan,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Cliicago  River.  By  means  of  the  latter, 
and  tlie  Illinois  and  Michigan  Canal,  it  has 
continuous  communication  with  the  Mis- 
sissippi Biver,  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  the 
Pacitic  Ocean,  on  the  west,  and  with  the 
chain  of  lakes,  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  the 
Atlantic  Ocean,  on  the  east.  Probably  no 
inland  city  in  the  world  possesses  greater 
facilities  for  commercial  intercourse. 

The  rapidity  of  its  growth  in  popula- 
tion and  trade  finds  no  parallel  either 
in  ancient  or  modern  times.  The  history 
of  the  city,  though  brief,  is  interesting, 
not  only  on  account  of  the  romantic  Inci- 
dents of  its  early  discovery  and  occupa- 
tion, but  as  furnishing  one  of  the  most, 
perhaps  the  most  remarkaljle  instance 
on  record  of  rapid,  sustained,  and  perma- 
nent growth. 

The  first  visitors  to  the  site  of  the 
present  city  were  Joliet  (Louis)  and  Mar- 
quette (Jacques),  who  arrived  August, 
16*73.  Point  au  Sable,  a  native  of  St. 
Domingo,  followed  in  1*796,  but  soon 
afterward  removed  to  Peoria.  The  first 
permanent  settlement  Vi'as  made  in  1804-, 
by  Mr.  John  Kinzie,  who  moved  hither 
from  St.  Joseph,  at  that  time  a  mission- 
ary station  on  the  cast  side  of  Lake 
Michigan.  On  April  7  and  August  12, 
1S12,  the  Indian  massacre  occurred  at 
Fort  Dearborn,  which  resulted  so  disas- 
trously to  the  little  garrison. 

At  the  close  of  1830,  Chicago  con- 
tained twelve  houses  and  three  suburban 
("  country  ")  residences  on  Madison  Street, 
with  a  population,  composed  of  whites, 
half-breeds,  and  blacks,  numbering  about 


100.  The  first  map  of  the  town,  as  sur- 
veyed by  James  Thompson,  bears  date 
August  4,  1830. 

Fort  Dearborn  was  constructed  in 
1804,  rebuilt  in  1816,  and  pulled  down 
in  1857.  It  stood  near  the  head  of  Michi- 
gan Avenue,  below  its  intersection  with 
Lake  Street,  and  a  little  north  of  the 
present  Marine  Hospital  building. 

The  town  was  organized  August  10, 
1833,  incorporated  as  a  city  March  4, 
1837,  and  the  first  election  held  May  1, 
1837,  so  that  it  is  now  in  its  thirtieth  year. 
The  first  vessel  entered  the  harbor  June 
11,  1834,  and  at  the  official  census,  taken 
July  1,  1837,  the  entire  population  was 
found  to  be  4,170.  Outside  of  J^'ort  Dear- 
born, in  1833,  were  about  35  houses, 
mostly  built  of  logs.  The  first  frame 
building  was  erected  in  1832,  by  George 
W.  Dole,  and  the  first  brick  house  in 
1833.  It  was  standing  on  Monroe  Street, 
near  Clarke,  at  a  recent  period.  In  1843 
tlie  population  of  the  city  had  increased 
to  7,580;  in  1847  to  16,859;  in  1850  to 
28,269;  in  1855  to  80,023;  in  1860  to 
109,263,  and  in  1865  to  178,539.  Its 
present  population,  city  and  suburban, 
is  estimated  at  260,000. 

During  the  years  1856-57,  and  '58  the 
entire  business  portion  of  the  city  was 
raised  from  three  to  eight  feet  al)ove  its 
former  level,  which  has  facilitated  drain- 
age, and  greatly  improved  its  sanitary 
condition  as  well  as  commercial  facilities. 

The  site  of  the  city  is  at  present  a 
gently  incHned  plane,  the  ground  in  the 
western  part  of  the  city,  three  miles  from 
the  lake,  being  from  15  to  18  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  lake.  The  streets  are 
generally  80  feet  wide,  and  regularly 
built.  They  cross  each  other  at  right 
angles,  and  are  for  the  most  part  paved 
with  stone  or  with  the  Nicholson  pave- 
ment. Many  of  them  are  from  three  to 
five  miles  in  length.  The  Chicago  Bivcr, 
and  its  two  branches,  run  through  the 
city,  dividing  it  into  three  nearly  equal 
divisions,  known  as  North,  South,  and 
West  Chicago.  Numerous  bridges  con- 
nect the  main  avenues  of  travel  leading 
from  the  city  proper  to  the  Northern 
and  Western  Divisions.  These  divisions 
are  subdivided  into  16  wards,  and  con- 
tain 416  streets,  avenues,  and  alleys. 
The  river  affords  a  harbor  for  the  largest 

189 


CUICAGO.] 


ILLIXOIS. 


[Chicacjo. 


vessels  for  more  than  five  miles,  at  the 
entrance  of  which  is  a  new  iron  light- 
house. Lake  Street  is  the  Broadway  of 
Chicago ;  while  Michigan  Avenue  and 
Wabash  Avenue  are  distinguished  by 
princely  edifices,  and  adorned  with  rows 
of  luxuriant  trees.  On  South  Water 
Street  are  situated  many  of  the  ware- 
houses and  all  the  large  wholesale  stores. 
Many  of  the  private  residences  on  the 
north  and  west  side  of  the  river  are 
handsomely  built,  and  surrounded  by 
highly  ornamented  or  cultivated  grounds. 

Chicago  is  the  greatest  primary  grain- 
market  in  the  world.  The  first  shipment, 
consisting  of  YS  bushels  of  wheat,  took 
place  in  1838.  In  1863  the  exports 
of  grain  exceeded  fifty-four  millions  of 
bushels,  and  in  1865  about  the  same 
amount  w^as  shipped.  In  1865  nearly 
six  hundred  and  fifty  million  feet  of 
lumber  were  received.  The  provision 
trade  is  also  very  extensive  and  pros- 
perous. To  those  who  would  carry  away 
with  them  a  just  estimate  of  the  greatness 
of  Chicago,  a  visit  to  the  extensive  gram 
elevators,  cattle  and  lumber  yards,  and 
packing-houses,  is  necessary.  These  estab- 
lishments, together  with  the  ra,ilway 
stations,  and  the  activity  whicli  every- 
where manifests  itself  in  the  industrial 
pursuits  of  its  people,  constitute  the 
striking  features  of  Chicago  life. 

The  immense  elevators  of  Sturges, 
Buckingham  &  Co.,  Flint  &  Thompson, 
and  Munn  k  Scott,  are  well  worthy  a 
visit.  The  two  latter  have  an  aggre- 
gate capacity  of  two  and  a  half  million 
bushels.  The  total  capacity  of  the  17 
elevators  in  the  city  is  ten  million  fifty- 
five  thousand  Inishcls. 

The  Union  Stock  Yards  embrace  345 
acres^  laid  out  in  streets  and  avenues,  and 
provided  with  an  abundant  supply  of  water 
and  every  thing  needful  in  the  receiving 
and  tending  of  stock.  Nine  of  the  rail- 
v/ays,  terminating  in  Chicago,  find  a  com- 
mon centre  here.  Fifteen  million  feet  of 
lumber  were  used  in  constructing  the 
flooring  and  pens,  and  the  whole  cost  of 
construction  thus  far  has  reached  one 
million  dollarn.  Tlie  extensive  breweries 
of  the  "  Lill "  and  "  Sands  "  companies 
are  well  wortliy  a  visit. 

The  best  i)oints  of  observation  in  this 
Prairie  or   Gai-dcn   City,   as  it  is  some- 
190 


times  though  inappropriately  called,  are 
worthy  of  note.  They  are  the  Court- 
House  Tower  and  the  /Sherman  House 
Observatory. 

Public  GnouxDS,  Buildings,  etc. — 
Chicago,  though  by  no  means  densely 
populated  even  in  its  most  crowded  (juar- 
ters,  has  already  several  fine  public 
grounds  and  promenades.  The  most 
attractive  is  the  Ji'splanade,  sometimes 
called  Lake  Park,  which  extends  along 
the  basin,  on  the  east  side  of  Michigan 
Avenue,  from  Randolph  Street  to  Park 
Place.  On  summer  evenings,  the  upper 
end  of  this  delightful  promenade  presents 
an  animated  appearance. 

Dearborn  Park  is  an  enclosure  of  one 
and  a  half  acres,  near  the  north  end  of 
the  Esplanade.  It  is  the  oldest  public 
ground  in  the  city. 

Union  Park^  in  the  West  Division, 
contains  an  area  of  five  and  a  half  acres, 
well  laid  out,  and  ornamented  with  shade- 
trees. 

Jefferson  Park^  near  Union  Park,  con- 
taining five  acres,  has  several  handsome 
residences  around  it. 

Lincoln  Park^  north  of  the  City  Ceme- 
tery, on  the  lake  shore,  contains  nearly  60 
acres,  and  is  undergoing  improvements, 
which  will  eventually  make  it  the  most 
attractive  public  ground  in  the  West. 

The  princij>al  public  buildings  are  lo- 
cated in  the  very  heart  of  the  city,  and 
are  easily  accessible.  They  are  the  Ctis- 
tom-Honse  and  Post-Office^  the  Chamber 
of  Commerce,  Crosby^s  Opera-House,  the 
Court-House,  and  the  Armory.  The  De- 
pot of  the  Union  or  Central  Pailway  is 
also  a  fine  building  of  immense  extent. 

The  Court-House  is  an  imposing  edifice, 
though  architecturally  defective.  It  is 
built  of  Lockport  limestone.  It  was  com- 
pleted in  1855,  and  occupies  the  most 
central  square  in  the  city.  The  tower, 
which  is  reached  by  a  spiral  stairway, 
commands  the  best  view  to  be  had  of  the 
city  and  lake. 

The  Chamber  of  Co^nmerce,  at  the 
corner  of  Washington  and  Lasalle  Streets, 
should  be  visited.  It  is  of  Athens  mar- 
ble, in  the  modern  Italian  style,  181  feet 
long  by  93  feet  wide,  and  is  justly  ad- 
mired for  its  fine  proportions  and  finish. 
It  was  completed,  August  1865,  at  a 
cost,  including  the  ground,  of  §;400,000. 


Chicago.] 


ILLINOIS. 


[Chicago. 


The  Board  of  Trade  Hall  is  a  magnificent 
apartment,  143  feet  in  length,  85  feet 
wide,  and  45  feet  high,  and  lighted  by  25 
Vvindows,  each  25  feet  in  height.  The 
ceiling,  etc.,  is  richly  frescoed.  Tlie  daily 
sessions  of  the  Board,  from  11  to  1 
o'clock,  alFoi'd  one  of  the  characteristic 
sights  of  the  city.  The  best  hour  for 
strangers  to  visit  it  is  12  o'clock.  Admis- 
sion to  the  balcony  overlooking  the  hall. 

The  Merchants'  Exchange^  incorporated 
February  16,  1865,  is  at  1*7  Dearborn 
Street. 

The  Opera-HouRe  is  one  of  the  most 
prominent  and  costly  buildings  in  the 
city.  It  stands  on  Washington  Street, 
between  State  and  Dearborn,  having  a 
front  on  the  former  of  140  feet,  and  run- 
ning back  179  feet.  The  building  was  com- 
pleted in  1865,  and  cost  $450,000.  It 
is  four  stories  high,  and  presents  a  chaste 
and  imposing  appearance.  Kinsley'' a  Res- 
fanrant  and  Confectionery^  on  the  first 
floor,  is  the  leading  establishment  of  its 
kind  in  the  city. 

Besides  the  public  buildings  enume- 
rated above,  the  city  contains  60  halls, 
which  are  used  as  lecture,  concert,  and 
assembly  rooms.  The  principal  are 
Bryan  and  Metropolitan  Halls. 

Among  the  pubUc  Avorks  of  the  city 
specially  worthy  of  notice  is  the  Lake 
Michigan  Tunnel  for  supplying  the  city 
with  water.  Permits  to  visit  it  are 
granted  at  the  office  of  the  Water-works, 
corner  Chicago  Avenue  and  Pine  Street. 
This  fine  work  was  commenced  March 
18,  1864,  and  completed  December,  1866. 
The  depth  of  the  shore  shaft  is  69  feet, 
and  of  the  lake  shaft  64  feet ;  the  whole 
length  of  the  tunnel  is  two  miles.  The 
lake  terminus  of  the  tunnel,  knov.n  as 
the  "  Crib,"  should  be  first  visited.  It  is 
composed  of  timber  securely  bolted  to- 
gether, and  is  40  feet  long,  and  pentag- 
onal in  form.  Upward  of  600,000  feet 
of  timber,  2,000  bolts,  and  400  bales  of 
oakum,  costing  nearly  $100,000,  were 
used  in  its  construction.  Upon  the  top 
of  this  structure  a  permanent  lighthouse 
is  to  be  erected.  The  tunnel  is  nearly 
circular  in  form,  being  5  feet  2  inches  in 
height,  and  5  feet  wide.  It  is  enclosed 
in  brick  masonry,  8  inches  thick.  The 
actual  excavation  was  about  seven  feet, 
requiring  the  removal  of  nearly  16,000 


cubic  yards  of  earth,  principally  clay. 
About  four  millions  of  bricks  were  used  in 
the  construction  of  the  tunnel.  The  bot- 
tom of  the  lake  shaft  is  66  feet  below  the 
ordinary  level  of  the  lake,  and  the  bot- 
tom surface  of  the  tunnel  descends  west- 
ward to  the  shore  shaft,  at  the  rate  of 
two  feet  per  mile.  The  contract  price 
for  the  work  was  $315,139,  but  the 
whole  cost,  inclusive  of  the  hghthouse 
and  improvements  to  the  present  works, 
will  probably  reach  |1,000,000.  The  con- 
tractors for  this  great  work  were  Messrs. 
Dull  and  Gowan,  of  Harrisburg,  Pa.  E. 
S.  Chesbrough,  City  Engineer. 

The  work  of  deepening  the  Illinois  and 
Michigan  Canal,  so  as  to  turn  the  current 
of  the  Chicago  Eiver  from  Lake  Michigan 
into  the  Illinois  and  Mississippi  Piivers, 
was  commenced  in  1865,  and  will  be 
completed,  it  is  thought,  in  1868,  at 
a  cost  of  two  million  dollars.  When 
this  great  work  is  finished,  Chicago  will 
be  one  of  the  best-cleansed  as  well  as 
best-watered  cities  on  the  continent. 

If  the  visitor  is  desirous  to  pursue  his 
hydropathic  and  sanitary  investigations 
further,  he  ought  to  visit  the  famous 
Artesian  Wells.  They  are  situated  at 
the  intersection  of  Chicago  and  Western 
Avenues,  about  3|-  miles  west  of  the 
Court-House,  and  are  easily  reached  by 
the  cars  on  West  Randolph  Street.  The 
Wells  are  respectively  911  and  694  feet 
deep,  and  flow  about  twelve  hundred 
thousand  gallons  daily,  A  third  Avell 
was  commenced,  with  the  view  of  ob- 
taining oil,  but  work  on  that  has  been 
suspended  for  the  present. 

Churches,  etc. — The  church  edifices 
of  Chicago  number  112,  and  the  ceme- 
teries 12.  Of  the  former  the  following 
are  the  most  noteworthy:  The  First 
Baptist  Church,  one  of  the  most  spacious 
and  costly  edifices  of  its  kind  in  the  city, 
is  on  V/abash  Avenue,  at  the  corner  of 
Hubbard  Court.  It  is  of  Athens  marble, 
in  the  early  English  style.  It  is  165  feet 
by  112,  and  has  sittings  for  2,000  persons. 
The  tower  is  230  feet  high.  The  organ 
is  large,  and  cost  $12,000,  The  total 
cost  of  the  church  was  $175,000, 

The  First  and  Second  Preshytcrian 
Churches,  also  on  Wabash  Avenue,  are 
striking  edifices.  The  first,  which  is  near 
Van  Buren  Street,  is  one  of 

191 


the  largest 


Chicago.] 


ILLINOIS. 


[Chicago, 


church  edifices  in  the  city.  It  was  com- 
pleted in  1853,  and  cost  $100,000.  The 
latter,  wliich  is  built  of  bituminous  lime- 
stone, presents  a  unique  and  venerable 
appearance,  though  scarcely  fifteen  years 
old.  The  Church  of  the  Messiah  (Unita- 
rian), on  Wabash  Avenue  and  Hubbard 
Court,  is  a  handsome  Norman  edifice. 
Its  windows  (stained  glass),  and  hand- 
somely frescoed  ceiling,  are  in  keeping 
with  the  architectural  design  of  the  build- 
ing, which  borders  on  the  Romanesque. 

Of  the  Episcopal  churches,  Trinity^  on 
Jackson  Street ;  St.  James's,  corner  Hu- 
ron and  Cass  Streets  ;  and  ChrisVs^  corner 
Michigan  Avenue  and  Twenty-fourth 
Street,  are  the  most  prominent.  The 
Bishojj's  CJiapcl  is  a  small  edifice  of  gray 
stone  in  the  Gothic  cruciform  style,  at 
the  corner  of  West  Washington  and 
Peoria  Streets.  The  interior  is  richly 
decorated. 

Of  the  cemeteries,  Graceland^  Rose- 
hill^  and  Calvary,  in  the  North  Division, 
are  the  most  interesting.  The  last  two 
are  on  the  line  of  the  Chicago  and  Mil- 
waukee Railway.  Oakivoods,  on  "\"in- 
cennes  Road,  three  miles  south  of  the 
southern  limits,  is  also  a  pretty  rural 
spot.  The  office  of  the  Rose-hill  Ceme- 
tery is  at  82  Lake  Street,  where  tickets 
of  admission  are  issued. 

Educatioxal  Institutions,  etc. — The 
University  of  Chicago  should  be  visited, 
if  the  traveller  have  time.  It  was  found- 
ed by  the  late  Senator  Douglas,  and  was 
first  opened  for  instruction  in  1858.  It 
occupies  a  beautiful  site,  overlooking 
Lake  Michigan,  at  Cottage  Grove,  four 
miles  south  of  the  Court-House,  and  is 
readily  reached  by  the  State  Street  cars. 
Tlie  main,  central  building,  130  by  172 
feet,  was  completed  in  1806,  at  a  cost  of 
^110,000.  The  soutli  wing  has  recently 
been  added.  When  the  whole  edifice  is 
finished,  it  will  be  one  of  the  most  com- 
modious and  elegant  buildings  in  the 
West. 

The  Dearborn  Observatory  (tower), 
which  adjoins  the  University  on  tlie  west, 
contains  the  Clarke  telescope,  said  to  be 
one  of  the  largest  and  best-constructed 
instruments  in  the  country.  The  object- 
glass  has  a  focal  length  of  23  feet. 

The    Chiraffo     Theological    Semhiary, 

when  completed,  will  be  one  of  the  most 

192  ^ 


noteworthy  institutions  of  the  city.  The 
building,  now  in  course  of  erection, 
stands  on  the  west  side  of  Union  Square, 
at  the  intersection  of  Reuben  and  War- 
ren Streets.  It  will  have  a  frontage  on 
the  park  of  155  feet,  and  be  in  the  Nor- 
man style  of  architecture.  It  will  con- 
tain a  chapel,  library,  and  lecture-rooms. 
Estimated  cost,  $100,000. 

Lake  Forest  University,  as  the  name 
implies,  is  located  at  the  village  of  Lake 
Forest,  on  the  line  of  the  Chicago  and 
Milwaukee  Railway,  28  miles  north  of 
Chicago,  and  7  miles  south  of  Wauke- 
gan. 

The  University  of  St.  JIary  of  the 
Lake,  founded  in  1843  by  Bishop  Quar- 
ters, is  an  unpretending  structure  in  the 
North  Division,  on  North  State,  corner  of 
Superior  Street. 

The  Presbyterian  Tlicoloriical  Seminary, 
founded  in  1859,  has  a  fine  building  re- 
cently  erected  at  the  corner  of  FuUerton 
Avenue  and  Halsted  Street.  It  is  five 
stories  high,  and  contains  a  fine  library. 

Chicago  also  contains  three  medical 
colleges,  the  most  noteworthy  of  which 
is  the  Rush  Medical  College,  founded  in 
1842,  and  located  at  the  corner  of  North 
Dearborn  and  Indiana  Streets  ;  3  Com- 
mercial Colleges,  24  Roman  Catholic  con- 
vents and  schools,  and  27  public  schools. 
The  latter,  which  are  under  the  charge 
of  a  superintendent  (office,  76  Lasalle 
Street),  give  instruction  to  30,000  pupils, 
and  are  many  of  them  worth  visiting. 
The  High  School  stands  on  Monroe  Street, 
between  Halsted  and  Desplaines  Streets ; 
and  Dearborn  School,  erected  in  1844, 
and  the  oldest  now  standing,  is  on  Madi- 
son between  State  and  Dearborn  Streets. 

Among  the  purely  literary  and  scientific 
institutions  the  Academy  of  Sciences  and 
tlic  Historical  Society  are  best  worth 
visiting.  The  former  was  organized  in 
1856,  and  incorporated  in  1865.  The 
rooms  of  the  society  occupy  the  upper 
])art  of  the  Metropolitan  block,  comer  of 
Randolph  and  Lasalle  Streets,  and  con- 
tain 38,000  speehnens  in  the  several  de- 
partments of  natural  history.  The  His- 
torical Society,  organ'  :ed  April,  1856, 
under  the  zealous  antl  eflficient  manage- 
ment of  the  secretary.  Rev.  Wm.  Barry, 
has  made  rai)id  progress  in  its  collections, 
witliin  the  past  few  years.     The  library 


Chicago.] 


ILLINOIS. 


[Chicago. 


now  numbers  upward  of  85,000  bound 
and  unl)Oui:id  books  and  pamphlets.  The 
historical  department  of  the  collection 
embraces  many  extremely  rare  and  valu- 
able works,  and  constitutes  by  far  the 
most  valuable  collection,  public  or  pri- 
vate, in  the  Northwest.  A  day  or  two 
may  be  profitably  spent  by  the  traveller 
in  examining  the  shelves  of  this  fine  li- 
brary, whicli  has  recently  been  placed  in 
the  new  building  of  the  society,  on  the 
northwest  corner  of  Dearborn  and  On- 
tario Streets,  North  Division. 

The  Library  of  the  Yonvr/  Meiih  Asso- 
ciation is  in  the  Portland  Block,  corner  of 
Washington  and  Dearborn  Streets.  It 
numbers  about  10,000  volumes. 

The  Laio  Instibitc,  incorporated  in 
1857,  has  a  collection  of  upward  of  T,000 
volumes. 

Among  the  Charitable  and  Benevo- 
lent Institutions  worthy  a  visit  are  the 
United  States  Marine  Ho'ipital^  occupying 
a  prominent  locale  on  Michigan  Avenue, 
a  little  south  of  the  site  of  Old  Fort  Dear- 
born. The  building  has  been  sold,  and 
is  now  used  for  commercial  purposes. 
Cooh  County  Hospital .,  erected  in  1856, 
on  the  corner  of  Eighteenth  and  Arnold 
Streets  ;  the  Magdalen  Asylum^  on  North 
Market  Street ;  the  Protestant  Orphan 
Asylum^  corner  of  Michigan  Avenue  and 
Twenty-second  Street ;  the  Home  for 
the  Friendless^  911  Wabash  Avenue,  and 
St.  JosejJt's  (male)  and  St.  Maryh  (fe- 
male) Orphan  Asylums,  North  State  cor- 
ner of  Superior.  The  tAvo  last-named 
institutions  are  under  the  charge  of  the 
Sisters  of  Mercy. 

The  Soldier^s  Home,  organized  in  1863, 
has  a  spacious  building,  just  completed, 
at  a  cost  of  $30,504.  It  is  at  Cottage 
Grove  (Fairview),  and  can  be  visited,  in 
connection  with  the  University  and  the 
Douglas  Monument. 

Amusements,  etc.  —  Croshy^s  Opcra- 
Hotcsc.{see  Public  Buildings). 

McVicJcers''s  Tyjm.'iY',  on  Madison  Sti-eet, 
is  the  oldest  and  most  popular  theatrical 
establishment  in  the  city.  Ilice''s  Theatre, 
the  first  "  temple  of  the  drama  "  erected 
in  Chicago,  stood  on  Kandolph,  between 
Clark  and  Dearborn  Streets.  It  was  a 
wooden  structure,  erected  in  1847,  and 
having  l^een  destroyed  by  fire,  Avas  re- 
built in  1850,  and  occupied  as  a  theatre 

9 


till  1858,  when  it  was  remodelled  and 
used  as  stores.  The  present  edifice  (Mc- 
Vickers's)  is  a  spacious  and  well  appoint- 
ed building,  opened  October  5,  1857.  It 
cost  $93,000,  and  has  sittings  for  1,800 
persons. 

IFooc/'.s  Museum,  on  P»ando]ph  Street, 
east  of  Clark  (curiosities  and  dramatic 
performances). 

Academy  of  Mnsic,  Washington,  l;c- 
tween  Clark  and  Dearborn  Streets  (Ethi- 
opian minstrelsy). 

The  German  Theatre,  corner  of  Wells 
and  Indiana  Streets. 

The  Variety  Thecdre,  115  and  117  Dear- 
born Street,  is  a  smaller  dramatic  estab- 
lishment. 

The  rooms  of  the  Chicago  Chess-Clnh 
are  in  Portland  Block,  Dearborn,  corner 
Washington  Street.  Admission  by  intro- 
duction. Those  visiting  Chicago  duiing  the 
winter  season  Avill  find  the  Skating-Ponds, 
or  "  Rinks,"  among  the  attractions  of  the 
place.  The  most  desirable  resorts  of  this 
character  are  the  Washington  Park  and  -^ 
Wabash  Avenue  Rinks.  One  of  the 
greatest  attractions  of  Chicago,  combi- 
ning as  it  does  three  of  its  leading  ob- 
jects of  interest,  is  Cottage  Grove.  This 
pleasant  resort  is  situated  on  the  edge  of 
Lake  Michigan,  directly  south  of  the  city, 
four  miles  from  the  Trcmont  and  Sher- 
man Houses,  and,  as  already  stated,  is 
reached  by  the  city  cars,  on  State  Street, 
from  the  intersection  of  Lake.  Here 
are  located  the  Universit}^  the  Soldier's 
Home,  and  the  Douglas  Monument,  the 
two  first-named  of  which  have  already 
been  described. 

The  Doiigleis  Monument  occupies  a 
site  formerly  owned  by  Mi\  Douglas  him- 
self. The  tract,  one  acre  in  extent,  Avas 
purchased  from  Mrs.  Douglas  for  the  sum 
of  .$30,000.  The  monument  consists  of 
a  circular  base,  52  feet  in  diameter,  a 
pedestal,  21  feet  high,  and  column  of  43 
feet,  surmounted  by  a  sphere,  upon 
Avhich  it  is  proposed  to  place  a  bronze 
statue  of  Douglas,  12  feet  high.  The  en- 
tire height  of  the  monument,  when  com- 
pleted, "avUI  be  100  feet,  and  the  cost 
$75,000.  It  is  from  designs  of  L.  W. 
Vclk,  of  Chicago. 

The  raihvay  system,  of  which  Chicago 
is  the  centre,  embraces  15  main  lines  and 
branches,  with  an   aggregate   length   of 

193 


Chicago.] 


ILLIXOIS. 


[Springfield. 


4,725  miles.  Upward  of  100  trains  ar- 
rive and  depart  daily.  The  roads  run- 
nina;  East  are : 

The  3fichi(/an  Central  Railway/,  to  De- 
troit, 284  miles,  from  Central  Depot. 

The  Michigan  Southern  and  Nori hern 
I.idiana  Railway^  to  Toledo  and  Detroit, 
■with  branches  to  Monroe,  Adrian,  and 
Jackson.  Total  length,  535  miles.  De- 
pot, Sherman,  corner  Van  Biiren  Street. 

The  rittshnrg^  Fort  Wayne,  and  Chi- 
cago Railway,  to  Pittsburg,  468  miles. 
Depot,  corner  Madison  and  Canal  Streets. 

The  Chicago  and  Great  Eastern  Rail- 
way, to  Cincinnati,  294  miles.  Depot, 
corner  of  Canal  and  Kinzie  Streets. 

Westward : 

The  Chicago,  Burlington,  and  Quincy 
Railway,  to  Burlington,  204  miles,  and 
Quincy,  265  mile?.  Total  length  of  line 
and  branches,  400  miles.  From  Central 
Depot. 

The  Chicago  and  Rock  Island  Railway, 
to  Rock  Island,  182  miles.     Depot,  cor- 
*     ner  Van  Buren  and  Sherman  Streets. 

The  Chicago  and  Northioesicrn  Rail- 
way, to  Freeport  (121  miles),  Fulton 
(138  miles),  and  Boonesboro,  Iowa  (342 
miles).  Depot,  corner  Canal  and  Kinzie 
Streets. 

Southward  : 

The  Illinois  Central  Railway,  to  Cairo 
(365  miles),  and  from  Dunleith  to  Cen- 
tralia  (343  miles).  Total  length,  708 
miles.     From  Central  Depot. 

The  Chicago,  Alto7i,  and  St.  Louis 
Railviay,  to  St.  Louis,  281  miles.  Depot, 
corner  of  Madison  and  Canal  Streets, 

Northward : 

The  Chicago  and  Milwaukee  Railway, 
to  Milwaukee,  85  miles.  Depot,  corner  of 
Canal  and  West  Kinzie  Streets. 

The  Chicago  and  Northwestern  Rail- 
way, to  Fort  llowarJ,  242  miles.  Boat 
on  Green  Bay  to  Escanaba,  372  miles ; 
Marquette,  447  miles. 

Branch,  Chicago  to  Madison,  138 
miles. 

Branch,  Chicago  to  Geneva  Lake,  85 
miles. 

Several  steamship  lines  ply  between 
Chicago  and  the  various  ports  on  Lakes 
Michigan,  Superior,  and  Huron.  The  prin- 
cipal are  the  Lake  Supei'ior  line  (A.  T. 
Spencer,  agent),  and  Goodrich's  Lake 
Shore  line,  the  oflice  of  which  is  on  the 
194 


dock,    south    side,     near    Rush    Street 
bridge. 

The  offices  of  the  principal  express 
and  telegraph  lines  are  on  Lake  and 
Lasalle  Streets,  with  branches  at  the 
leading  hotels. 

The  British  Con'^ulate  in  Chicago  is 
No.  30  Reynolds's  Block,  on  Dearborn 
and  Madison  Streets. 

Sprisag-iield. — Hotels:  The  Le- 
land  House,  just  opened,  is  one  of  the 
best  houses  in  the  State.  The  St.  Nicho- 
las is  also  a  good  house,  but  of  smaller 
capacity,  near  the  railway  station. 

Spi'iugfield,  the  State  capital,  and  the 
seat  of  justice  of  Sangamon  County,  lies 
southwest  of  the  centre  of  the  State, 
near  the  Sangamon  River,  upon  the  con- 
fines of  a  beautiful  prairie  district,  97 
miles  north-northeast  of  St.  Louis,  and 
188  miles  southwest  of  Chicago.  It  was 
laid  out  in  1822.  In  the  centre  of  the 
city  is  a  square,  occupied  by  the  State 
Capitol  and  other  pubUc  edifices,  and 
compassed  by  spacious  and  elegant 
streets.  Springfield  was  the  residence 
and  is  now  the  burial-place  of  Abraham 
Lincoln,  late  President  of  the  United 
States. 

Oak  Ridge  Cemetery,  two  miles  north 
of  the  city,  is  a  picturesque  rural  burying- 
ground.  It  embraces  72  acres,  and  was 
laid  off  in  May,  1856.  Six  acres,  near  the 
southeastern  extremity  of  the  ceme* 
tery,  are  set  apart  for  the  purposes  of  the 
National  Lincoln  Monument  Association. 
It  is  estimated  that  the  momnnent  will 
cost  $250,000.  The  vault  in  which  the 
remains  of  the  late  lamented  President  and 
his  two  young  sons,  Eddie  and  Willie,  are 
temporarily  placed,  crowns  the  summit  of 
a  little  hill  facing  the  northeast.  It  is  of 
brick,  with  stone  copings,  and  about  ten 
feet  high.  The  names  of  upward  of  30,- 
000  visitors  have  already  been  registered 
in  the  curator's  book. 

The  Springfield  High  School,  establish- 
ed in  1818,  is  worthy  a  visit.  The  new 
building,  on  the  corner  of  Madison  and 
Fourth  Streets,  is  a  fine  four-story  brick 
building,  just  completed,  at  a  cost  of 
$75,000.  The  hall,  on  the  fourth  floor, 
has  sittings  for  600.  The  pupils  number 
160,  and  are  under  the  charge  of  William 
M.  I3aker,  principal. 

The     Great     Western    Raihxay    runs 


Peoria.] 


ILLINOIS. 


[Alton. 


througli  Springfield,  intersecting  the 
Chica(/o,  Alton,  and  St  Louis  Jiaihray, 
and  connecting  Springfield  with  Toledo 
on  the  cast,  and  with  Quincy,  Kcokidc, 
and  Central  Iowa  on  the  west.  Next  to 
the  State-House,  the  most  prominent 
buildinsrs  are  the  CouH-House,  Arsenal. 
and  one  or  two  churches,  Tliere  is  a 
theatre,  and  a  commodious  lecture  and 
concert  hall.  Some  of  the  private  resi- 
dences in  the  southern  part  of  the  city  are 
conspicuous  for  their  size  and  elegance. 
From  the  observatories  of  the  Lelaud 
House  and  the  State-House  extended 
views  are  to  be  obtained.  Population, 
estimated  at  15,000. 

I*eo5'ijt. — Hotel,  Peoria  House. 

Peoria  lies  northwest  of  tlie  centre  of 
the  State,  upon  the  Illinois  River,  at  the 
outlet  of  Peoria  Lake.  It  is  161  miles 
from  Chicago,  by  the  Chicago  and  Eock 
Jaland  Railway.  It  has  direct  commu- 
nication with  Logansport,  Indiana,  and 
with  all  important  points  in  Illinois  and  the 
adjoining  States.  Distance  from  Rock 
Island,  114  miles;  from  Springfield,  70 
miles  north;  from  St.  Louis,  167  miles. 

Peoria  is  the  most  populous  place 
upon  the  Illinois  River,  and  commer- 
cially one  of  the  most  important  in 
the  State.  It  is  situated  upon  rising 
ground,  a  broad  plateau,  extending  back 
from  the  bluff  and  the  river  expanding 
into  a  broad,  deep  lake.  This  lake  is  the 
most  beautiful  feature  in  the  scenery  of 
Peoria,  and  as  useful  as  it  is  beautiful, 
for  it  supplies  the  inhabitants  with  ample 
stores  of  fish,  and  in  winter  with  abun- 
dance of  purest  ice.  It  is  often  frozen  to 
such  a  thickness  that  heavy  teams  can 
pass  securely  over  it.  A  substantial 
drawbridge  connects  the  town  with  the 
opposite  shore.  The  city  is  laid  out 
in  rectangular  blocks,  the  streets  being 
wide  and  well  graded.  The  schools  and 
churches  are  prosperous,  and  the  society 
good.  A  public  square  has  been  I'cserved 
near  the  centre.  Back  of  the  town  extends 
one  of  the  finest  rolling  prairies  in  the 
State,  which  already  furnishes  to  Peoria 
its  supplies  and  much  of  its  business. 
Peoria  w^as  first  visited  by  Joseph  Mar- 
quette and  M.  Joliette  in  1673.  The  second 
visit  was  by  Robert  Chevalier  de  la 
Salle,  accompanied  by  Louis  Hennepin 
and  M.  Tonti,  in  1680.     They  proceeded 


thitlier  in  the  "Griffin,"  built  near  Black 
Rock,  on  tlie  Niagara  River.  Their  route 
was  up  the  St.  Joseph  River,  across  to 
Kankakee,  thence  down  the  Illinois  River 
to  "  Pieddu  lac  Pemiteouii "  (Lake  Peo- 
ria). "Creve-Coeur  " — Broken  Heart — the 
name  given  to  a  fortification  erected  by 
La  Salle,  stood  on  the  southeastern  side 
of  the  river,  about  three  miles  distant 
from  tlie  present  city  of  Peoria.  Fort 
St.  Louis  was  built  by  La  Salle,  in  1683, 
on  a  detached  bluff,  seven  miles  below 
the  city  of  Ottawa,  known  to  early  set- 
tlers as  "Starved  Rock."  Fort  Clark, 
erected  in  1813,  under  Governor  Ninian 
Edwards,  was  destroyed  by  Indians  in 
1819.  The  population,  in  1860,  amounted 
to  14,425;  in  1866,  to  17,460.  Tlie  his- 
toiy  of  the  present  town  dates  from  1819. 
It  was  incorporated  in  1844. 

AltOM. — Hotel,  the  Alton  Hovse. 
Alton  is  upon  the  Mississippi,  23  miles 
aVjove  St.  Louis,  on  the  Terre  Haute  and 
Alton  Failway,  174  miles  from  Terre 
Haute,  247  from  Indianapolis,  257  miles 
below  Chicago,  and  72  below  Springfield, 
by  the  Chicago,  Alton,  and  St.  Louis  line. 
The  Missouri  enters  the  Mississippi  three 
miles  below  Alton,  contributing  greatly 
to  the  commercial  value  of  its  position. 
It  possesses  one  of  the  best  landings  on 
the  great  river.  The  present  city,  of 
about  11,000  people,  has  grown  up  since 
1832,  at  which  time  the  Penitentiary  was 
established  here.  The  Penitentiary  has 
since  been  removed  to  Joliet.  tipper 
Alton  is  the  seat  of  the  Shurtleff  (I3ap- 
tist)  College.  It  is  also  the  seat  of  the 
diocese  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church 
for  Southern  Illinois,  and  has  a  fine 
cathedral.  Limestone  and  stone-coal 
abound  in  the  vicinity.  Lime  is  shipped 
in  lai'ge  quantities. 

€|BB.iiaey. — Hotel,  the  Quincy  House. 
Quincy  is  on  the  Mississippi,  170  miles 
above  St.  Louis,  and  104  miles  west  of 
Springfield  ;  265  miles  from  Chicago,  by 
the  Chicago  and  Burlingtoji  road,  100 
miles  from  Galesburg.  By  these  lines 
Quincy  is  connected  also  with  Galena, 
Rock  Island,  Peoria,  and  other  cities. 
The  town  is  built  upon  a  limestone  bluff. 
125  feet  above  the  river,  in  the  vicinity 
of  a  fertile,  rolling  prairie.  It  contains  a 
fine  square,  court-house,  and  two  hand- 
Bome  church  edifices. 

195 


Nauvoo.] 


ILLINOIS. 


[JOLIET. 


Rock  I  si  an  if. — Hotels,  the 
Fanikaw  Boic.se ;  the  Fuller  Home. 
Rock  Island  is  two  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Rock  River,  ou  the  Missis- 
eippi,  opposite  Davenport,  Iowa,  at  the 
foot  of  the  upper  rapids,  which  extend 
15  miles.  It  is  the  State  terminus  of  the 
Rock  Island  Iiailroad,  on  the  great  high- 
way of  travel  from  the  Eastern  States 
wa  Chicago  (182  miles)  to  Iowa  and  the 
Far  West ;  56  miles  east  of  Iowa  City. 
This  city  is  named  after  a  large  island 
near  by,  which  is  much  resorted  to  dur- 
ing the  summer  months.  A  bridge  con- 
nects it  with  Davenport.  It  is  a  i)ictu- 
resque  and  most  thriving  place.  The 
Island  House, 

IPevw. — Hotel,  JSioore's. 

Peru  is  in  Lasalle  County,  upon  the  Illi- 
nois River,  and  the  Chicago  and  Ixoclc 
Island  Raihoay  at  its  intersection  with 
the  Illinois  Central  road.  From  Chicago, 
100  miles  ;  from  Rock  Island,  82  miles. 
The  Illinois  and  Michigan  Canal  termi- 
nates near  Peru.  The  town  is  very  ad- 
vantageously situated,  with  ready  and 
general  railway  access,  and  at  the  head  of 
ordinary  navigation  on  the  Illinois  River. 
Population,  4,500. 

r%'a«.v©o  is  on  the  Mississippi  River, 
at  the  second  and  last  I'apids  below  the 
Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  Avhich  extend  up 
the  river  about  12  miles.     It  is  52  miles 
above  Quincy,  and  220  above  St.  Louis. 
(For  routes,  see  Quincy  and  Burlington.) 
This  is  tlie  site  of  the  famous  Mormon 
city,  which  was  founded  in  1840  by  ''Joe 
Smith  "  and  his  followers,  and  once  con- 
tained a  population  of  18,000.     It  is  lo- 
cated on  a  bluffy  but  is  distinguished  from 
every  thing   on   the   river   bearing   that 
name  by  an  easy,  graceful  slope,  of  very 
great  extent,  rising  to  an  unusual  height, 
and  containing  a  smooth,  regular  surlace, 
whieli,   with  the  plain  at  its  summit,  is 
BuOlcioit  for  the  erection  of  an  immense 
city.     Nauvoo  was  laid  out  on  a  very  ex- 
tensive plan,   and  many  of  the  houses 
wci'c  handsome   structures.      The   great 
■Mormon  TemjAe^  an  ol»ject  of  attraction, 
and  seen  very  distinctly  from  the  river, 
Tras    128    feet    long,  88   feet    wide,     05 
feet  high  to  the  top  of  the  cornice,  and 
163  feet  to  the  top  of  the  cupola.     It 
■would  accommodate   an   assemblage   of 
196 


3,000  persons.  The  architecture,  al- 
though of  a  mixed  order,  in  its  main  fea- 
tures resembled  Doric.  It  was  built  of 
compact,  polished  limestone,  obtained  on 
the  spot,  resembling  marble.  In  the 
basement  of  the  temple  was  a  basin,  15 
feet  high,  supported  by  12  oxen  of  colos- 
sal size,  cut  in  stone.  In  this  font  the 
Mormons  were  baptized.  This  build- 
ing, without  an  equal  m  the  West,  and 
worth  half  a  million  of  dollars,  was  fired 
))y  an  incendiary,  on  the  9th  of  October, 
1848,  and  reduced  to  a  heap  of  ruins. 
Joe  Smith  and  a  number  of  his  followers 
were  arrested,  and  confined  in  the  county 
prison,  where,  in  June,  1844,  they  were 
put  to  death  by  a  mob,  disguised  and 
armed.  Expelled  from  Illinois  by  force 
of  arms,  the  Mormon  community  removed 
to  their  present  settlements  in  Utah.  In 
May,  1850,  a  company  of  French  social- 
ists (Icarians),  led  by  M.  Etienne  Cabet, 
established  themselves  here,  but  have 
since  been  dispersed. 

•Foliet,  the  capital  of  Will  County, 
is  pleasantly  situated  at  the  intersection 
of  the  Chicago  and  Rock  Island  and 
Chicago,  Alton,  and  St.  Louis  Railways, 
40  miles  from  Chicago  bv  the  former  and 
37  miles  by  the  latter  line.  The  Des- 
plaines  River  and  the  Ilhnois  and.  Michi- 
gan Canal  pass  through  the  cit}',  and 
afford  fine  manufacturing  power.  The 
State  Penitentiary  is  an  hnposing  edifice 
of  gray  limestone,  quarried  in  the  vicini- 
ty. One  million  dollars  were  expended 
in  its  construction.  Population,  about 
10,000. 

Ot^a^va,  the  capital  of  Lasalle 
County,  stands  on  tlie  Illinois  River,  near 
the  mouth  of  tlie  Fox  River,  and  on  the 
Chicago  and  Rock  Island  Railway,  84 
miles  from  Chicago.  It  is  lighted  with 
gas,  and  contains  some  handsome  build- 
ings. A  fall  of  nearly  30  feet  in  the  Fox 
River  affords  fine  manufacturing  privi- 
leges. Coal  is  extensively  mined  in  the 
vicinity.     The  population  exceeds  10,000. 

B^ssssall*?,  named  after  the  early  ex- 
plorer of  the  Illinois  River  and  State,  is 
the  terminus  of  th.e  Illinois  and  Michigan 
Canal,  100  miles  long,  which  connects 
the  navigable  waters  of  the  river  with 
Lake  Michigan,  at  Chicago.  It  is  readied 
from  that  city  by  the  Iiock  Island  Rail' 


.n 


jALENA.] 


ILLINOIS. 


[Freeport. 


way.  Coal  and  zinc  arc  among  the  prin- 
cipal exports.  Population,  between  four 
md  five  tlioupand. 

Hloomiiag-tom,  the  tliriving  capi- 
tal of  McLean  County,  is  plcai^antly  situ- 
ated near  the  centre  of  the  State,  in  the 
nidst  of  a  rich  farming  region.  It  is  126 
niles  south  of  Chicago,  by  the  Chicogo^ 
Alton.,  and  St.  Louis  Railway,  which  in- 
tersects the  rUinois  Central  road  from 
Ounleith  to  Cairo,  two  miles  north  of  the 
own.  The  State  Normal  University  and 
-he  Weslcyaoi  University  are  well  worthy 
I  visit.  The  former  is  an  imposing  edi- 
ice,  erected  in  ISS'Z-'SS,  at  a  cost  of 
$200,000. 

A^ai'ors*,  a  thriving  town  in  Kane 
Oounty,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Fox 
River  and  the  Chicago,  Burlington,  and 
Quincy  Railway,  40  miles  west  of  the 
irst-named  city.  The  Fox  Elver  affords 
ibundant  v/ater-power,  and  Aurora  is  be- 
■oming  a  place  of  extensive  manufac- 
ures.  The  workshops  of  the  Chicago, 
.kirlington,  and  Quincy  road  are  located 
Mere.  The  City  Hall  is  a  fine  edifice, 
'opulation,  nearly  10,000. 

C^salcBsa,  the  capital  of  Jo  Daviess 
/Omity,  is  one  of  the  oldest  as  well  as  the 
aost  interesting  towns  in  the  State.  It  is 
eached  from  Chicago  (1'72  miles)  by  the 
Jaleua  division  of  the  Northwestern  Rail- 
)ay,  and  from  St.  Louis  (450  miles)  by 
■ackets  on  the  Mississippi  River.  It  is 
ituated  on  Fevre  Paver,  six  miles  from  its 
ntrance  into  the  Mississippi,  in  the  ex- 

■  :'eme  northwestern  corner  of  the  State, 
40  miles  north  of  Cairo,  with  which  it 
as  daily  connection  by  the  Illitiois  Cen- 
•al  Railway.  The  city,  which  is  built  on 
•le  slope  and  summit  of  a  rocky  ledge  of 
onsiderable  altitude,  presents  a  very 
nique  appearance,  and  commands  ex- 
rnsive  and  varied  views.  The  town  owes 
s  growth  to  the  production  and  shipment 

■  f  the  lead  mined  in  the  vicinity.    A  visit 
'  )  one  or  more  of  these  mines  and  the 

djacent  furnaces  will  repay  the  traveller, 
opulation  of  the  city  in  1860  was  8,200, 
hich  has  since  been  increased  to  nearly 
2,000. 

<rasalesl>ia.fg-,  in  Knox  County,  is  a 
iriving  city  on  the  Chicago,  Riirlington, 
id  Qtiiticy  road,  165  miles  southwest  of 
hicago,  and  53  miles  west-northwest  of 
eoria.     It  has  several  fine  educational 


institutions,  among  the  most  prominent  of 
Avhich  are  l^nox  College  and  Lombard  Col- 
lege.    Population,  8,200. 

"^Vaialceg'HM  (formerly  called  Little- 
fort)  is  delightfully  situated  on  the  v.-estern 
shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  35  miles  north 
of  Chicago,  and  50  nhlcs  south  of  ]\lil- 
waukee  by  rail.  The  residence  portion 
of  the  village  is  built  on  a  blufP,  nearly 
50  feet  from  the  level  of  the  lake,  which 
is  here  upward  of  '70  niilcs  wide,  and 
commands  attractive  views.  It  con- 
tains a  lecture-hall,  newspaper  {Gazette) 
office,  and  several  good  stores  ;  and  being 
a  remarkably  healthy  place,  is  much  re- 
sorted to  by  Chicago  families  during  the 
summer  months.  Population,  5,000. 
Evanston,  Glcncoe,  Lake  Fared,  and  Rock- 
land are  pleasant  summer  resielence  spots 
suburban  to  Chicago,  and  located  on  the 
line  of  the  Chicago  and  U'dwaukce  road, 
between  the  former  city  and  Waukegau. 

Evajiston,  10  miles  north  of  Chicago,  is 
the  seat  of  the  Northwestern  University 
and  a  flourishing  Female  College,  founded 
in  1855.  The  village  was  laid  out  in 
1852-'53,  and  is  named  after  Dr.  John 
Evans,  ex-Governor  of  Colorado. 
.  l^^'eepoi't,,  the  capital  of  Stephen- 
son County,  is  a  thriving  town  on  the  Pe- 
katonica  Eiver  at  the  junction  of  the 
Chicago  cmd  Galena,  the  Illinois  Centred, 
and  Western  Union,  Railways,  121  miles 
v/est  of  Chicago,  51  miles  south  of  Ga- 
lena, and  67  miles  from  Dunleith.  It  con- 
tains a  jrood  hotel,  several  handsome 
churches,  and  three  newspaper  offices. 
Present  population  (estimated),  8,600. 

IS o eli lb i'<l,  one  of  the  most  at- 
tractive and  flourishing  cities  of  Illinois, 
is  delightfully  located  on  the  east  and 
west  banks  of  the  Rock  River,  nearly 
midway  between  Chicago  (92  miles)  and 
Dunleith,  being  reached  from  either  city 
by  rail  in  four  hours.  The  river  supplies 
it  with  a  fine  watei'-power,  which  has  been 
greatly  improved.  The  coimty  buildings 
are  commodious.  Laid  out  in  1834-35,  it 
now  cfjntains  nearly  9,000  inhabitants. 

l>ixoES,  also  on  Rock  River,  is 
reached  by  the  Chicago  and  Northu'csfcrn 
Raihcay,  98  miles  from  Chicago.  The 
Centred  road  intersects  the  Northwestern 
at  this  point.  A  branch  of  the  North- 
xee&tern  road  extends  73  miles  to  Kenosha, 
Wisconsin. 

197 


Jacksontille.] 


ILLINOIS. 


[Cairo. 


JacSiSOiiville,  the  capital  of  Mor- 
gan County,  is  pleasantly  situated  in  the 
midst  of  a  fertile  prairie,  near  the  Moresta 
Creek,  32  miles  west  of  Springfield  by 
the  Great  Western  Railwan.  The  town  is 
noteworthy  for  the  prominoice  of  its 
public  buildings  and  educational  and 
charitable  institutions.  The  Illinois  Col- 
lege, founded  in  1830,  occupies  a  com- 
manding locale  and  is  in  a  flourishing 
condition.  It  has  a  library  of  5,000  vol- 
umes. 

The  Blind,  Insane,  and  Deaf  and  Dnmh 
Asylums  are  spacious  edifices,  each  lo- 
cated about  a  mile  from  the  municipal 
centre.  The  streets  are  generally  wide 
and  adoiTied  with  shade-trees.  Pojiula- 
tion,  7,528. 

l>ecatiii*5  the  capital  of  Macon 
County,  is  at  the  intersection  of  the  Cen- 
tral and  Great  Western  Railioaijs,  40 
miles  east  of  Springfield,  and  44  miles 
south  of  Bloomington.  Population,  about 
6,000. 

198 


Cairo  is  situated  at  the  southern  ex. 
tremity  of  the  State,  on  a  j^romontory 
formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  Ohio  and 
Mississippi  Rivers.  The  town  lies  low, 
and  formerly  suffered  much  from  inunda- 
tions caused  by  the  periodical  rise  in  these 
great  rivers  ;  but  a  levee,  erected  some 
years  ago  at  cost  of  $1,000,000,  has 
greatly  protected  it  and  added  to  the 
growth  and  prosperity  of  the  place. 
Steamboats  plying  between  St.  Louis, 
Cincinnati,  and  New  Orleans  call  here, 
and  during  the  late  military  and  naval 
operations  on  the  Mississippi  River  it  oc- 
cupied considerable  prominence  as  a  depot 
and  shipping  port.  A  steam  packet, 
plying  between  Columbus  (Ky.)  and 
Cairo,  forms  the  connecting  link  in  the 
chain  of  railway  communication  by  the 
Mobile  and  Ohio  and  Illinois  Central 
Railways  between  New  Orleans  and  Chi- 
cago. Population  (estimated),  4,300. 
The  St.  Charles  is  the  leading  hotel.  The 
International. 


Missouri.] 


MISSOURI. 


[Missouri. 


M  I  S  S  O  U  E  I 


Missouri  formed  part  of  the  ancient 
territory  of  Louisiana,  purchased  by  the 
United  States  from  France.  It  is  one  of 
the  largest  of  the  United  States,  being 
285  miles  long,  and  nearly  280  miles 
wide,  and  embraces  an  area  of  43,000,000 
acres.  It  was  the  first  State  formed  wholly 
west  of  the  Mississippi.  A  settlement 
called  Fort  Orleans  was  made  within  its 
limits  by  the  French  in  1719.  The  oldest 
town  in  the  State,  St.  Genevieve,  was 
founded  in  1755.  St.  Louis  was  com- 
menced in  1*764.  The  State  was  Aasited 
in  1811  and  in  1812  by  a  memorable 
series  of  earthquakes,  which  occurred  in 
the  vicinage  of  New  Madrid.  The  face 
of  the  country  was  greatly  altered  by 
these  events ;  hills  entirely  disappeared, 
lakes  were  obliterated,  and  new  ores 
formed.  The  waters  of  the  Mississippi 
Eiver  were  turned  back  with  such  accu- 
mulations, that  they  overran  the  levees 
built  to  hem  them  in,  and  inundated 
)vhole  regions,  leaving  it  in  its  present 
marshy  state. 

The  more  recent  history  of  Missouin 
has  been  an  eventful  one.  It  was  the 
scene  of  active  and  Avidely-extended 
operations  by  both  Federal  and  Confed- 
erate forces  during  the  war  of  18Gl-'65. 
As  the  only  slaveholding  State  on  the 
western  border,  it  early  attracted  the  at- 
tention of  the  Government.  A  conven- 
tion met  at  Jefferson  City,  February  28, 
1861,  which  was  adjourned  to  meet  at  St. 
Louis,  March  4th,  follovf'ing.  On  the 
16th  of  May,  1861,  a  camp  of  instruction, 
located  in  the  western  suburbs  of  St. 
Louis,  and  known  as  "  Camp  Jackson," 
and  composed  of  State  militia  under  the 
command  of  General  Frost,  surrendered 
to  the  United  States  troops  under  General 
Lyon.  In  marching  out  a  riot  took  place, 
in  which  twenty-five  persons  wei-e  killed 


and  wounded.  The  respective  forces  in 
the  State  in  November  of  that  year  were 
estimated  to  amount  to  42,000  men,  27,- 
000  of  whom  were  Federals.  The  State 
was  the  scene  of  almost  continuous  inva- 
sion, fighting,  bushwhacking,  and  rioting 
during  1862-63,  and  indeed  until  nearly 
the  close  of  the  war.  In  October,  1864, 
the  rebels  under  Price  were  routed  near 
the  crossing  of  the  Little  Osage  River, 
and  the  discomfited  forces  either  taken 
prisoners  or  driven  out  of  the  State. 

The  surface  of  this  great  State  is  in 
many  parts  level  or  but  slightly  undula- 
ting. A  wide  marsh}^  tract  occupies  an 
area  of  3,000  square  miles  in  the  south- 
eastern part,  near  the  Mississippi.  In 
other  sections  are  vast  reaches  of  prairie 
lands,  extending  to  the  Rock}^  Mountains. 
The  Ozark  Mountains,  which  we  have  seen 
traversing  the  State  of  Arkansas,  extend 
through  Missouri,  centrally,  from  north  to 
south  in  the  form  of  elevated  table-lands. 
The  rich  alluvial  tracts  of  the  Mississippi 
lie  east  of  this  district,  and  westward  are 
boundless  deserts  and  treeless  plains, 
sweeping  away  to  the  base  of  the  Rocky 
Mountain  ranges.  Missouri  is  divided 
into  113  counties,  and  contained  in  1860 
a  population  of  1,182,012. 

The  State  is  remarkably  rich  in  iron 
ore,  lead  and  copper  and  coal  mines,  and 
in  nearly  all  the  mineral  products.  It 
possesses,  too,  a  great  variety  of  marbles, 
some  of  them  beautifully  variegated,  and 
other  valuable  building-stones.  Pilot 
Knob  and  Iron  Mountam^  8.5  miles  south 
of  St.  Louis,  are  mineral  curiosities  well 
worthy  a  visit. 

The  chief  staples  of  Missouri  are  Indian 
corn,  hemp,  tobacco,  flax,  and  all  the  va- 
rieties of  grains,  fruits,  vegetables,  and 
grasses,  for  the  successful  growth  of  which 
the  soil  is  admirably  adapted. 

199 


Missouni.] 


MISSOURI. 


[Mtssouri. 


EiTERS. — The  Missouri  Elver .  The 
restless,  turbid  waters  of  this  magnificent 
river  flow  fretfully,  3,096  miles  from  their 
sources  in  the  remote  West,  to  their  de- 
houchure  in  the  Mississippi,  not  far  above 
the  city  of  St.  Louis.  The  entire  length 
of  the  river,  includiag  its  course  to  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico  by  the  Mississippi  (1,253 
miles  more),  is  4,349  miles.  The  head- 
waters of  the  Missouri  are  very  near  the 
snrings  which  find  their  wav  to  the  Pacific 
through  the  channels  of  the  Columbia 
River.  Their  course  is  northward  for  600 
miles,  until  they  reach  the  remarkable 
cataracts  known  as  the  Great  FaUs.  Be- 
fore their  arrival  here,  however,  and  at  a 
distance  of  411  miles  from  their  source, 
the  waters  make  the  passage  of  the  bold 
chasms  called  the  "  Gales  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains." — "  Here,  through  a  length 
of  six  miles,  the  giant  rocks  rise  perpen- 
dicularly to  an  elevation  of  1,200  feet. 
The  dark  waters,  in  their  narrow  bed, 
wash  the  base  of  these  huge  walls  so 
closely,  that  not  a  foothold  is  anywhere 
to  be  found.  It  is  a  ghostly  gorge  on 
the  sunniest  day,  but  when  its  habitual 
gloom  is  deepened  by  the  shadow  of  a 
stormy  sky,  its  solitude  grows  ])ainfully 
impressive.  Let  a  thunder-peal  reverbe- 
rate, as  often  happens,  in  a  thousand  wail- 
ing voices  through  the  rocky  windings  of 
this  glen,  and  lot  the  blackness  oi"  dark- 
ness be  increased  by  the  vanished  gleams 
of  the  lightning-flash,  and  you  think  you 
have  left  this  fair  w6rld  far  behind  you." 
A  v/riter  has  thus  described  his  expe- 
riences on  a  recent  visit  made  to  this  re- 
gion : 

"  We  were  once,  with  some  friends, 
traversing  this  passage  at  such  a  fearful 
moment  as  we  have  described,  wlieu  we 
became  aware  that  we  were  pursued  by  a 
party  of  Indians.  Noiselessly  and  breatli- 
lessly  we  urged  on  our  canoes,  pau.-ing  at 
intervals  only,  to  ascertain  tlie  progress 
of  our  foes  ;  hope  and  despair  alternate- 
ly filling  our  breasts,  as  we  seemed  at  one 
moment  to  be  gaining,  and  at  another  los- 
ing ground.  It  was  only  now  and  then 
that  we  caught  a  glimpse  of  the  savages, 
and  tlie  sound  of  their  unceasing  and  un- 
earthly yells  came  to  our  ears  with  such 
uncertainty,  that  it  gave  us  no  clew  to 
their  position.  The  excitement  of  tlie 
struggle  wag  intense,  as  their  random  ar-  I 
200 


rows  flew  about  our  ears,  and  as  the  dead- 
ly effect  of  our  fatal  shots  was  told  to  us 
by  thic  death-cries  from  their  own  ranks. 

"We  took  fresh  courage,  as  the  increas- 
ing light  spoke  our  approach  to  the  ter- 
minus of  the  glen,  and  gave  us  hope,  once 
on  terra  firnia,  of  distancing  our  ftjes. 
Xew  fears,  though,  seized  upon  us,  lest, 
our  scanty  supply  of  ammunition  should 
be  exhausted  before  we  reached  the 
prayed-for  sanctuary.  Happily,  the  dyead 
vanished,  as  the  arrows  of  the  savages 
sensibly  decreased  in  numbers,  and  the 
chorus  of  their  infernal  shrieks  died 
away. 

"  When  we  at  last  leaped,  panting,  upon 
the  shore,  not  a  sound  of  pursuit  was  to 
be  heard,  leaving  us  the  glad  hope  that 
we  had  slain  them  all,  or  so  many  as  to 
secure  us  from  further  danger.  But  not 
stopping  to  verify  this  supposition,  we 
made  all  possible  haste  to  reach  the  camp 
which  we  had  so  gayly  left  a  few  hours 
before.  Once  safe  among  our  compan- 
ions, we  mentally  vowed  to  be  wai-y 
henceforth,  how  vre  ventured  within  the 
gates  of  the  Rocky  Mountains." 

The  Great  Falls  of  tlie  Missouri  are 
located  2,575  miles  from  its  mouth,  and 
40  "miles  above  Fort  Benton.  The  de- 
scent of  the  swift  river,  at  this  point,  is 
357  feet  in  13'r  miles.  The  falls  em- 
brace four  cascades,  the  first  of  which  is 
26  feet,  the  next  27  feet,  a  third  of  19 
feet,  and  a  fourth  and  lowest  of  87  feet. 
Between  and  below  these  cataracts  there 
are  stretches  of  angry  rapids.  This  pas- 
sage is  one  of  extreme  beauty  and  gran- 
deur, and  at  some  day,  not  very  distant, 
perhaps,  when  these  Western  wilds  shall 
be  covered  with  cities,  and  towns,  and 
peaceful  hamlets,  this  spot  will  be  one  of 
no  less  eager  and  numerous  pilgrimage 
than  many  far  less  imposing  scenes  are 
now.  The  falls  of  the  Missouri  are  es- 
teemed, by  the  few  tourists  whose  good 
fortune  it  has  been  to  look  upon  these 
wonders,  as  holding  rank  scarcely  below 
the  cataracts  of  Niagara. 

A  late  writer  on  the  western  territories 
says :  "  The  thunder  of  the  falling  waters, 
veiled  in  snowy  foam,  the  bold,  v.ild 
banks,  the  dazzling  rainbows,  and  the 
immense  volume  of  water,  will  make  the 
spot  a  favorite  one  for  tourists  in  all  c(m> 
ing  time."      The  best,  and   indeed  only 


Missouri.] 


MISSOURI. 


[Missouri. 


travelled  approach  is  by  boat  from  St. 
Louis,  during  the  "  spring  rise "  in  the 
Missouri,  to  Fort  Benton,  2,570  miles,  and 
thence  25  miles  by  land.  Fort  Union, 
400  miles  below  Fort  Benton,  is  the  head 
of  steamboat  navigation  during  the  sum- 
mer months.  (See  Montana,  also  Dakota). 

The  upper  waters  of  the  Missouri  flow 
through  a  wild,  sterile  country,  and  below 
pass  vast  prairie  sti-etches.  Above  the 
River  Platte,  the  open  and  prairie  char- 
acter of  the  country  begins  to  develop,  ex- 
tending quite  to  the  banks  of  the  river, 
and  stretching  from  it  indefinitely  in 
naked  grass  plains,  where  the  traveller 
may  wander  for  days  without  seeing  either 
wood  or  water.  Beyond  the  Council 
Bluffs  (see  Omaha),  which  are  situated 
about  600  miles  up  the  Missouri,  commen- 
ces a  country  of  great  interest  and  gran- 
deur, denominated  the  Upper  Missouri.  B 
is  composed  of  vast  and  almost  boundless 
grass  plains,  through  wliich  run  the 
Platte,  the  Yellowstone,  and  the  other 
rivers  of  this  ocean  of  grass.  BulFaloes, 
elk,  antelopes,  and  mountain  sheep 
abound.  Lewis  and  Clark,  and  other  re- 
spectable travellers,  relate  having  found 
here  large  and  singular  petrifactions,  both 
animal  and  vegetable.  On  the  top  of  a 
hill  they  found  a  petrified  skeleton  of  a 
huge  fish,  forty-five  feet  in  length.  The 
herds  of  gregarious  animals,  particularly 
of  the  buffalo,  are  almost  countless. 

The  Yellowstone,  one  of  the  principal 
tributaries  of  the  Missouri,  rises  in  the 
same  range  of  mountains  with  the  main 
stream.  It  enters  from  the  south  by  a 
mouth  850  yards  wide,  and  is  a  broad 
and  deep  river,  having  a  course  of  about 
1,600  miles. 

The  Platte,  another  tributary  of  the 
Missouri,  rises  in  the  same  range  of 
mountains  with  the  parent  stream,  and, 
measured  by  its  meanderiugs,  is  supposed 
to  have  a  course  of  about  2,000  miles, 
before  it  joins  that  river.  At  its  mouth 
it  is  nearly  a  mile  wide,  but  it  is  very 
shallow,  and  is  not  beatable,  except  at  its 
highest  floods. 

The  Kaiisas,  or  Kaio  River,  is  &,  very 
large  tributary,  having  a  course  of  about 
1^00  miles,  and  is  beatable  for  most  of 
the  distance,  La',\Teiice,  Topeka,  Fort 
Riley,  and  other  towns  in  Kansas,  are  on 
its  banks. 


The  Osage  is  a  large  and  important 
branch  of  the  ]\Iissouri  ;  it  is  boataljle  for 
200  miles,  and  hitcrlocks  with  the  waters 
of  the  Arkansas. 

The  Gasconade,  beatable  for  66  miles, 
is  important  from  having  on  its  banks 
extensive  pine  forests,  from  Avhich  the 
great  supply  of  plank  and  timber  of  that 
kind  is  brought  to  St.  Louis. 

Railways. — This  State,  though  until 
within  a  comparatively  recent  period  de- 
pendent almost  wholly  upon  its  unequalled 
river  communications  for  commercial  in- 
tercourse, is  destined,  as  the  chief  depot 
for  ths  products  of  the  great  West,  to  be- 
come an  important  railway  centre.  The 
following  lines,  embracing  nearly  one 
thousand  miles  of  road,  are  now  in  opera- 
tion, affording  rapid  intercourse  with  the 
Missouri  River  as  far  as  Leavenworth, 
and  Vvith  the  frontier  States  of  Nebraska, 
Kansas,  and  the  outlying  territories  of 
Dakota,  Colorado,  and  Utah. 

The  Pacific  Railicay,  from  St.  Louis  to 
Kansas  City,  283  miles,  v/here  it  connects, 
via  Wyandotte,  Kansas,  with  the  eastern 
division  of  the  Union  Pacific  to  Fort 
Riley,  125  miles. 

Sovthwest  Pacific  (Branch  Pacific  Rail- 
way) from  Franklin  (3*7  miles)  to  Rolla, 
113  miles. 

The  XortJi  Missoiiri  Railioay,  from  St. 
Louis  170  miles,  to  Macon  City,  where  it 
connects  with  the  Hannibal  and  St.  Joseph 
Railway. 

The  Hannibal  and  St.  Joseph  Railway^ 
from  Hannibal,  on  the  Mississippi  River, 
206  miles,  to  St.  Joseph,  on  the  Missouri 
River. 

The  St.  Louis  and  Iron  ^fountain  RaiU 
way,  from  St.  Louis,  87  miles,  to  Pilot 
Knob. 

A  short  road,  known  as  the  Platte 
County  Railicay,  connects  St.  Joseph 
with  Weston  and  Savannah,  52  miles. 

(For  fuller  information  in  regard  to  the 
railway  system  of  the  State  and  the  con- 
nections formed  with  other  routes  of 
travel  east  and  west,  centring  in  that  city, 
see  St.  Louis.) 

ST.  LOUIS. 

Hotels,  Zindell  Jlotise,  Southern,  Bar- 
minCs,  Everett  House,  the  Planters',  and 
the  Olive  St.  House. 

201 


St.  Louis.] 


MISSOURI. 


[St.  Louis. 


Routes. — From  New  York,  via  Chicago 
(see  Chicago),  and  thence  by  the  Chicago, 
Alton,  and  SL  Louis  road  (280  miles).  Or 
to  Cleveland,  Ohio,  by  the  Atlaniic  and 
Great  Western  Raihc ay,  &2^m\\e?>\  thence 
to  Crer^tlinc,  by  the  Cleveland,  Cincinnati, 
and  Columbus  Railway,  '75  miles  ;  Crest- 
line to  Indianapolis  {Belhfontaine  line) 
207  miles ;  Indianapolis  to  Terre  Haute, 
73  miles  ;  and  via  Terre  Haute  to  St.  Louis, 
by  the  St.  Louis,  Alton,  and  Terre  Haute 
Railway,  189  miles  ;  total,  1,173  miles. 
Or  by  the  Atlantic  and  Great  ]Vest- 
ern,  862  miles,  to  Cincinnati,  and  thence, 
340  miles,  by  the  Ohio  and  Missis- 
sippi Railway.  Total  distance,  1,202 
miles.  From  Pliiladelphia  to  Pittsburg, 
by  the  Pennsylvania  Railway,  355  miles  ; 
Pittsburg  to  Crestline  {Pittsburg,  Fort 
Wayne,  and  Chicago  road),  187  miles; 
Crestline  to  Indianapolis  {Bdlefontaine 
road),  206  miles ;  Indianapolis  to  St. 
Louis,  via  Terre  Haute,  262  miles  :  total, 
1,010  miles.  From  Baltimore,  Baltimore 
and  Ohio  road  to  Wheeling  (Bellaire), 
379  miles  ;  to  Columbus,  137  miles  ;  to 
Cincinnati,  120  miles  ;  to  St.  Louis,  340 
miles  :  total,  976  miles. 

The  LAndell  and  the  Southern  rank 
among  the  finest  hotels  in  the  United 
States,  being  excelled  by  none  either  in 
respect  to  size  or  appointments.  The 
Lindell  occupies  the  entire  block  facing 
'Washington  Avenue,  between  Sixth  and 
Seventh  Streets,  and,  from  its  mammoth 
proportions  and  elegant  design,  presents 
a  most  imposing  appearance.  It  is  one 
of  tlie  ornaments  of  the  city,  of  which  its 
citizens  feel  justly  proud,  and  will  well 
repay  a  visit  from  every  stranger  visiting 
St.  Louis.  It  contains  500  rooms,  adapt- 
ed to  the  wants  and  tastes  of  all  travel- 
lers, from  a  full  suite  of  parlor,  chambers, 
and  bath-room,  on  the  second  and  third 
floors,  to  the  single  chamber,  adapted 
specially  to  the  taste  of  single  gentlemen. 
The  gentlemen's  reading-room,  on  the 
ground  floor,  is  a  handsome  apartment. 
The  Southern,  which  stands  on  the  square 
bounded  by  Wahuit,  Fourth,  Fifth,  and 
Elm,  will  attract  every  stranger  in  that 
quarter  by  the  elegance  of  its  exterior.  It 
is  of  enormous  size,  being  270  feet  long 
on  Walnut  Street,  and  113  feet  on  Fourtli 
and  Fifth  Streets.  The  foundations  were 
laid  iu  1858,  and  the  v.'ork  completed  iu 
202 


1862.  It  is  built  of  Athens  stone,  closely 
resembling  marble,  in  the  Anglo-Italian 
style,  from  designs  by  George  J.  Barnett, 
and  is  six  stories  high.  The  centlemen's 
dining-room,  ladies'  ordinary  and  grand 
parlor,  are  magnificent  apartments. 

Guenedon''s  Restaurant,  105  Washing- 
ton Avenue,  near  the  Lindell  Hotel,  serves 
excellent  dinners  on  the  European  plan. 

St.  Louis,  the  chief  city  and  port  of 
entry  of  Missouri,  and  the  commercial 
metropolis  of  the  Upper  and  Central  Mis- 
sissippi Valley,  lies  upon  the  right  bank 
of  the  Mississippi  River,  20  miles  below 
its  confluence  with  the  Missouri,  and  174 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio.  It 
is  744  miles  below  the  Falls  of  St.  An- 
thony, and  1,194  miles  aljove  the  city  of 
New  Orleans.  It  is  built  upon  two  lime- 
stone plateaus,  one  20  and  the  other  60 
feet  above  the  waters  of  the  Mississippi. 
From  the  plain,  into  which  the  upper 
terrace  widens,  fine  views  of  the  city  and 
its  suiTOundings  are  presented.  The  en- 
tire extent  of  St.  Louis  along  the  curves 
of  the  river  is  about  7  miles,  and  west- 
ward 3  J-  miles.  The  densely  settled  por- 
tion, however,  is  confined  to  a  district  of 
about  two  miles  along  the  river,  and  a  little 
more  than  a  mile  in  width.  The  streets 
are  of  good  width,  and  regular.  Front 
Street,  stretching  along  the  levee,  is  100 
feet  in  breadth.  This  highway,  and  Main 
and  Second  Streets,  back  of  and  parallel 
with  it,  are  the  great  commercial  streets. 
Chestnut  and  Market  Streets  are  also  fine 
thoroughfares. 

Local  authorities  differ  as  to  the  precise 
date  of  the  selection  of  the  site.  Pierre 
Laclede  Liguest  landed  on  the  present  site 
of  Barnuni's  Hotel,  northeast  corner  Wal- 
nut and  Second  Streets,  December  9, 1763  ; 
Auguste  and  Pierre  Chouteau,  on  the  14th 
February,  1764.  A  map  drawn  by  Au- 
guste Chouteau  in  that  year,  gives  Third 
Street,  thon  Rue  de  Grange,  as  the  limit  of 
the  young  city  westward  as  then  laid  out. 
It  was  settled  as  a  trading  station  for  the 
trappers  of  the  West.  The  annual  average 
value  of  furs,  brought  here  during  the  fif- 
teen successive  vears  ending  with  lS04,was 
$203,750.  The  number  of  deer  skins 
was  158,000;  beaver,  36,900;  otter, 
8,000;  bear,  5,100;  bufialo,  850,  and 
so  on.  At  this  period  of  Avild  life,  the 
population  of  St.  Louis  was  between  1,500 


St.  Louis.] 


MISSOURI. 


[St.  Louis. 


and  2,000,  half  of  whom  were  always 
away  as  voya gears  and  trappers.  Up  to 
1820,  the  number  of  the  people  had  not 
reached  5,000. 

In  1768  (August  11th),  Rious  and  his 
band  of  Spanish  troops  took  possession  of 
the  place,  in  behalf  of  her  Catholic  ma- 
jesty, who  kept  possession  until  it  was 
transferred  to  the  United  States,  March 
26,  1804.  The  first  brick  house  v/as 
built  in  1813.  The  first  steamboat  ar- 
rived in  1817.  The  history  of  St.  Louis 
as  a  city  began  in  1822,  with  the  name 
bestowed  upon  it  by  Laclede,  in  honor  of 
Louis  XV.  of  France.  Between  1825 
and  1830,  emigration  began  to  flow  in 
from  Illinois,  and  the  place  thrived.  The 
populntion  in  1830  had  reached  6,694  ; 
in  1840,  it  had  swelled  to  16,469  ;  in 
1850,  it  was  77,850;  1852,  it  contained, 
including  the  rapidly  growing  suburbs, 
slightly  over  100,000,  and  the  last  census, 
1860,  gave  it  160,773.  The  estimated 
population  in  1866  was  190,000.  The 
boundaries  are  Keokuk  Street  southward, 
and  Grand  Avenue  west  and  north.  It 
is  divided  into  10  wards.  Street  cars  have 
been  successfully  introduced,  and  the 
diflerent  portions  of  the  city  and  suburbs 
are  now  readily  reached  by  this  means. 
Those  desiring  to  hire  carriages,  etc.,  will 
find  Arnot's  stables,  63  Chestnut  Street, 
and  the  City  Stables,  119  North  Third 
Street,  among  the  best  establishments 
to  deal  with.  Lafayette  Square  is  almost 
the  only  public  park  of  importance  which 
the  city  yet  possesses. 

Public  Buildings. — The  imhlic  edifices 
of  St.  Louis  are  in  every  way  creditable 
to  the  taste,  munificence,  and  enterprise  of 
the  people.  The  Cily  Hall,  the  Custom- 
JIo7ise,  and  the  Cotiri-Iiovse,  are  among 
the  most  prominent  and  noteworthy. 

The  Court-House,  completed  in  1860, 
at  a  cost  of  upward  of  one  million  and 
a  quarter  dollars,  is  one  of  the  finest  edi- 
fices of  its  kind  in  the  United  States.  It 
occupies  the  square  adjoining  the  Plan- 
ters' House  on  the  south,  bounded  by 
Fourth,  Fifth,  Chestnut,  and  Market 
Streets  ;  is  built  of  Genevieve  limestone, 
and  presents  an  imposing  uppearance. 
The  fronts  are  adorned  with  porticoes. 
Owing  to  defects  in  lighting,  the  rotunda, 
and  generally  the  interior  of  the  buildiug, 
presents,  a  dark  and  gloomy  appearance. 


The  dome  is  of  fine  proportions,  and 
though  considerably  smaller,  greatly  re- 
sembles that  on  the  Capitol  at  Washing- 
ton. 

The  Custom-House,  at  the  southeast 
corner  of  Third  and  Olive  Streets,  is  a 
spacious,  substantial  edifice  of  Missouri 
marble.  It  occupies  the  site  of  one  of  the 
first  theatres  erected  in  St.  Louis,  and  is 
built  upon  piles  driven  upward  of  twenty 
feet  into  the  ground.  It  was  erected  fiom 
designs  by  Barnctt,  Peck,  and  Thomas 
Walsh,  and  cost  $356,000.  Underneath 
the  Post-Office,  which  occupies  the  main 
floor  of  the  building,  is  a  vault  which 
extends  throughout  the  basement  of  the 
building.  The  second  story  is  used  for 
the  purposes  of  the  customs  and  United 
States  Courts. 

The  MercJumts''  Exchange,  fronMng  on 
Main  and  Commercial  Streets,  betw^een 
Market  and  Walnut  Streets,  is  a  fine  edi- 
fice. It  was  erected  in  1856-''57  from  de- 
signs by  Barnett  &  Wiler,  architects  of 
the  city,  at  a  cost  of  $75,000.  The 
height  on  Main  Street  is  75  feet,  length 
125  feet,  and  depth  85  feet.  The  main 
hall,  or  "  Exchange,"  is  a  fine  room,  102 
by  81  feet.  The  reading-room  is  on  the 
south  side  of  the  main  hall.  The  best 
time  to  visit  this  building  is  between  ll-J- 
and  12  o'clock  wdien  the  merchants  are 
"  en  'Change."  A  permit  from  the  supei'- 
intendent  is  necessary. 

The  United  States  Arsenal  is  a  grand 
structure,  in  the  southeast  part  of  the  city ; 
and  13  miles  below,  on  the  river  banks, 
are  the  Jefferson  Barracks. 

Churches,  etc. — Of  the  churches,  which 
exceed  80  in  number,  the  following  are 
the  best  worth  visiting:  The  Catholic 
Cathedral  of  St.  Louis,  on  W^iluut,  be- 
tween Second  and  Third  Streets ;  St. 
George's,  Episcopal  (Rev.  Dr.  Berkeley), 
at  tlie  corner  of  Locust  and  Seventh 
Streets,  erected  1845,  and  the  church  of 
the  Ilessiah  (Unitarian),  erected  1851,  at 
the  corner  of  Ohio  and  Ninth.  The 
Cathedral,  erected  in  1833,  is  136  feet 
long  and  84  feet  wide,  and  has  a  front  of 
polished  freestone,  58  feet  high,  with  a 
Doric  portico.  In  the  tower  is  a  fine 
chime  of  bells.  The  old  churches,  four 
in  number,  which  were  standing  in  1829, 
have  long  since  been  removed. 

Among  the  more  prominent  benevolent 

203 


Jefferson  City.] 


MISSOURI. 


[Lexington. 


institutions  of  the  city  are  the  City  IJos- 
pilal,  the  Jhirine  Hospital  (3  miles  be- 
low the  city),  the  Home  for  the  FricmVess, 
the  Sisters^  Hospital^  and  tea  Orphan  Asy- 
lums. 

Educational  Institutions,  etc. — St. 
Louis  University^  founded  in  1829  by 
members  of  the  Society  of  Jesus  and  in- 
corporated ill  1832,  is  located  between 
Washington  Avenue,  Green,  and  Ninth 
Streets  ;  Fojye's  Medical  College;  the  Wash- 
ington University^  southwest  corner  of 
Washington  Avenue  and  Seventeenth 
Street ;  the  Carcudin  College  of  the  Ger- 
mans ;  the  ITissouri  University,  are  among 
the  most  prominent  educational  institu- 
tions of  the  city.  There  are  tliree  Commer- 
cial Colleges  and  a  Polytechnic  Institute 
(0.  Fallon).  The  latter,  organized  in  1855, 
has  a  handsome  stone  edifice  at  the  cor- 
ner of  Chestnut  and  Seventh  Streets,  and 
a  library  of  '7,000  volumes.  Tliere  are 
five  other  libraries  in  the  city,  the  most 
prominent  and  popular  of  which  is  that 
of  the  Mercantile  Library  Association. 
The  High  School,  corner  of  Fifteenth  and 
Olive  Streets,  is  a  fine  building,  erected 
in  1855  at  a  cost  of  $50,000.  The  di- 
mensions of  the  building  are  67  by  84 
feet.  In  the  third  floor  is  an  Assembly 
HaU  with  seats  for  700  persons.  The 
public  schools  of  the  city  number  30. 

Belief onlaine  Cemetery  is  a  beautiful 
burial-ground,  situated  about  one  mile 
from  the  river,  on  the  road  of  the  same 
name,  five  miles  from  the  Court-House. 
It  embraces  about  350  acres  of  land  and 
is  tastefully  decorated  with  shade-trees 
and  shrubbery,  and  contains  the  remains 
of  most  of  the  old  settlers  and  residents 
of  St.  Louis.  Koute  by  Fourth  Street 
and  Broadway  cars  to  the  Toll-gate,  and 
thence  ))y  stage:  through  fare,  20  cents. 
There  are  lU  otlier  cemeteries,  some  of 
"which  are  very  tastefully  ornamented. 

•B  c  liV  !•  s  o  11  Cil  y  . — Hotel,  Mc- 
Curtefs. — Jetfcraon  City,  tlie  capital  of 
Missouri,  is  upon  the  Jlissouri  Kiver,  125 
miles  west  of  St.  Louis  by  the  Pacific 
Jiailway,  or  155  miles  by  steamboat  up 
tlic  river.  The  situation  is  bold  and  beau- 
tiful, overlooking  the  turl^id  waters  of  the 
Missouri  and  their  cHli-bound  shores. 
The  population  in  1S53  amounted  to  about 
3,000.  Jelferson  City  is  on  th.e  great 
route  to  Kansas,  Nebraska,  Utah,  Caliibr 
204 


nia,    and    all   the   Rocky   Mountain   re- 


gion. 


St.  .Fosepla. — Hotel,  the  Pacific. 
St.  Joseph  is  upon  the  Missouri  River, 
340  miles  above  Jelferson  City,  and 
406  miles,  by  water,  from  St.  Louis.  It 
is  the  most  important  place  in  the  western 
part  of  the  State,  and  a  great  point  of 
departure  for  the  Western  emigrants. 
Population,  5,000.    (See  Hannibal.) 

Colmii1>ici,  the  capital  of  Boone 
County,  is  35  miles  north-northwest  of 
Jefferson  City.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  State 
University,  a  large  and  elegant  edifice. 

II  a,  11  51 1 1>  a.  1. — Hotel,  Planters* 
House. 

Hannibal  is  upon  the  Mississippi,  153 
miles  above  St.  Louis,  and  15  miles  be- 
low Quincy,  Illinois.  A  railway,  208 
miles  long,  connects  Hannibal  Avith  St. 
Joseph,  on  the  western  boundary.  Pop- 
ulation, 3,500. 

I^exiiig-ton, — Hotels,  City  Hotel, 
Virginia  Hotel. 

Lexington  is  upon  the  Missouri  River, 
1 20  miles,  by  land,  from  Jefferson  City. 
The  town  has  prospered  by  its  trade  with 
the  Santa  Fe  and  Great  Salt  Lake  cara- 
vans. Lexington  was  the  scene  of  a  gal- 
lant defence  made  by  Colonel  Mulligan, 
with  3,000  State  troops,  against  the  rebel 
General  Sterling  Price.  The  siege  lasted 
four  days  (September  16  to  20,  1861), 
when  the  garrison  surrendered.  Popula 
tion,  in  1860,  about  4,000. 

St.  Cliai'les  City.  —  Hotels, 
the  Virginia  House,  the  City  Hotel. 

St.  Charles  City  is  situated  ui)on  the 
Missouri,  22  miles  from  its  mouth.  By 
land,  it  is  6  miles  below  the  Mississippi. 
It  is  Les  Pcliles  Cotes  of  the  early  French, 
established  by  Bianchctte  Chasseur,  in 
1769.  Population,  betwen  3,000  and 
4,000. 

Cape  CJirarclcaii. — Hotel,  St. 
Charles. 

Cape  Girardeau  is  upon  the  Mississippi, 
45  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio. 
The  St.  Vincent  College  is  located  here. 

"'ftVeston. — Hotel,  the  St.  George. 

\\'eston  is  upon  the  Missouri,  200  miles 
bv  railway  bevond  Jefferson  Citv,  and  6 
miles  above  Fort  Leavenworth. 

l*ailiiiyi*a  is  6  miles  from  Marion 
City,  its  landing-place  on  the  Mississippi 
River.  The  Quincy  and  Hannibal  branches 


Carondelet.] 


MISSOURI. 


[New  Madrid. 


of  the  Hannibal  and  St.  Joseph  Eailway 
intersect  at  this  point. 

Carosa<lolct  is  6  miles  below  St. 
Louis,  on  the  Mississippi.  It  was  founded 
by  Delor  de  Tregette,  in  I'ZGY,  and  is 
known  among  the  early  settlers  as  Vide 
Foclie  (Empty  Pocket). 

St.  CseMeTieve  is  61  miles  below 
St.  Louis,  on  the  Mississippi.  It  is  the 
shipping-point  for  the  products  of  the 
iron-works  at  Iron  Mountain. 

Ne^v  Ma«Iri€l,  settled  in  1780, 
was  formerly  a  noted  place,  but,  owing  to 
the  dreadful  earthquakes  it  experienced 
in  1811  and  1812,  it  has  sunk  into  com- 
parative insignificance.  It  is  situated  on 
a  irreat  curve  or  bend  of  the  river,  the 
land  being  extremely  low,  and  the  trees 
along  the  bank  presenting  a  great  uni- 
formity of  appearance.  The  view  is  most 
monotonous — a  feature,  indeed,  character- 
istic of  much  of  the  scenery  of  the  Lower 
Mississippi.     On  this  side  there  is  scarce- 


ly a  dozen  feet  elevation  for  the  distance 
of  100  miles.  By  the  earthquake  thou- 
sands of  acres  were  sunk,  and  multitudes 
of  lakes  and  ponds  were  created.  The 
churchyard  of  this  village,  with  its  sleep- 
ing tenants,  was  precipitated  into  the 
river.  The  earth  burst  in  what  are  called 
sand-blows.  Earth,  sand,  and  Avater  were 
thrown  up  to  great  heights  in  the  air. 
The  river  was  dammed  up,  and  flowed 
backward.  Birds  descended  from  the  air, 
and  took  shelter  in  the  bosoms  of  people 
that  were  passing.  The  whole  country 
was  inundated.  A  great  number  of  boats 
passing  on  the  river  were  sunk.  One  or 
two  that  were  fastened  to  islands,  went 
down  with  the  islands.  The  country  was 
but  sparsely  peopled,  and  most  of  the 
buildings  were  cabins,  or  of  logs  ;  and  it 
was  from  these  circmnstances  that  but 
few  people  perished.  (For  description  of 
points  below  on  the  river,  see  Mississippi 
River.) 

205 


Iowa.] 


IOWA. 


[Iowa. 


IOWA. 


Iowa  is  one  of  the  new  States.  It  was 
organized  as  a  Territory  in  1838,  and  ad- 
mitted into  the  Union  in  1846.  It  origin- 
ally formed  a  part  of  the  Louisiana  pur- 
chase, and  subsequently  a  part  of  Mis- 
souri and  Wisconsin.  It  lies  wholly  be- 
yond the  Mississippi,  which  washes  all 
its  eastern  boundary.  On  this  side,  its 
ncisfhbors  are  Wisconsin  and  Illinois.  On 
the  north  is  Minnesota ;  on  the  west, 
Minnesota  and  Nebi\iska ;  and  upon  the 
soutli,  Missouri.  It  is  287  miles  long 
from  east  to  west,  and  210  miles  broad, 
and  embraces  an  area  of  thirty-two  and  a 
half  millions  of  acres,  of  which  about  one- 
sixth  is  under  cultivation.  The  State  has 
no  very  notable  history,  beyond  the  usual 
adventure  and  hardship  of  a  forest  life 
among  savage  tribes.  The  settlement  of 
the  region  Vv'as  commenced  at  Burlington, 
in  the  year  1833.  The  landscape  of  Iowa 
is  marked  by  the  features  which  we  have 
traced  in  our  visit  to  neighboring  portions 
of  the  Northwest,  The  surface  is,  for 
the  most  part,  one  of  undulating  prairie, 
varied  with  ridges  or  plateaus,  whose  ex- 
tra elevations  impel  the  diverse  course  of 
the  rivers  and  streams.  The  Cotcau  des 
Prairies  enters  the  State  from  Minnesota, 
and  forms  its  highest  ground.  On  the 
Mississippi,  in  the  northeast,  the  landscape 
assumes  a  bolder  aspect,  and  pictures  of 
rugged,  rocky  height  and  bluff  are  seen. 
A  few  miles  above  Dubuque,  Table  Mound 
will  interest  the  traveller.  It  is  a  conical 
hill,  perha])s  500  feet  high,  flattened  at 
the  summit. 

The  F/'curie^^  wdiich  are  sometimes  20 
miles  across,  present  many  scenes  of  in- 
terest, in  their  way — and  it  is  a  v/ay  not 
ungrateful  to  the  unaccustomed  eyes  of 
the  visitor  from  the  Atlantic  States — mo- 
20G 


notonous  as  it  may,  possibly,  grow  in  time. 
The  rivers  in  some  parts  of  tlie  State  wind 
through  ravines  of  magnesian  limestone, 
amidst  which  they  have  gradually  worked 
their  way,  leaving  the  rocks  in  every  gro- 
tesque form  of  imagery.  The  depressions 
in  the  ground,  called  sinks,  are  cmnous 
objects.  These  singular  places,  which  are 
numerous,  arc  circular  holes,  10  and  some- 
times 20  feet  across.  They  abound  more 
particularly  on  Turkey  River,  in  the  upper 
part  of  the  State.  Near  the  mouth  of 
this  stream  there  are  also  to  be  seen  many 
small  mounds,  sometimes  rows  of  them, 
varying  in  height  from  4-  to  6  feet.  Iowa 
has  many  mineral  products,  among  which 
is  an  abundant  supply  of  lead.  Copper 
and  zinc  are  also  freely  found,  and  plenty 
of  coal. 

Rivers. — The  Des  Moines  Hivei',  the 
most  important  stream  in  Iowa,  rises  in 
Minnesota,  and  flows  450  miles  through 
the  State,  to  its  southeast  extremity,  where 
it  enters  the  Mississippi,  4  miles  below 
Keokuk.  It  is  navigable  for  small  steam- 
ers  250  miles,  or  may  be  made  so  with 
some  practicable  improvements.  The 
Iowa  River  is  300  miles  in  length,  and  is 
navigable  from  the  JUssissippi  upward 
(SO  miles)  to  Iowa  City.  The  Shunk 
River  (200  miles),  the  Cedar,  the  Mako- 
guefa,  and  the  Wapsiphiicoji,  are  all  trib- 
utaries of  the  Mississip.pi.  The  Missouri 
and  the  Great  Sioux  Rivers  form  the  entire 
Avestern  boundary  of  Iowa. 

Railways. — The  State  of  Iowa  is,  like 
all  the  Northwest,  being  rapidly  covered 
by  an  endless  network  of  rails.-  The  lines 
all  radiate  from  points  on  the  Mississippi 
River,  being  extensions  of  the  great 
through  lines  from  the  Atlantic  westward, 
via  Chicago.  They  aie  the  Burlington  and 


Dubuque.] 


IOWA. 


[Burlington. 


Missouri  River  Faihvm/,  from  I>urlin,a;ton 
to  Ortumwa  (75  miles),  where  it  connects 
with  the  Des  Moines  Vallct/  JRaihva>/ fvom 
Keokuk  to  Dcs  Moines  (162  miles). 

The  Mississippi  and  Missouri  Itaihoay^ 
from  Davenport,  oj)posito  Eock  Island, 
via  Iowa  City  (54  miles)  to  Kellogg  (131 
miles). 

The  Dithu que  and  Sioux  Ciiy  and  Du- 
buque Soutlavcstern  Jxailwai/,  from  Du- 
buque, via  Farley  (23  miles) — branch  to 
Cedar  Rapids  {19  m^iles),  and  Cedar  Falls 
(99  miles) — to  Iowa  Falls  (143  miles),  in 
progress  to  Fort  Dodge. 

The  Cedar  Rapids  and  Missouri  River 
line  (C.  &  N.  W.  K.  R.),  from  Clinton,  via 
Cedar  Rapids  (82  miles),  to  Boonesboro' 
(205  miles). 

The  McGregor  Western  Railway^  from 
McGregor  (opposite  Prairie  du  Chieu, 
Wis.)  to  Conuover  (50  miles). 

These  lines  embrace  800  miles  of  road, 
completed  and  in  operation,  with  exten- 
sions in  rapid  progress,  which,  when  com- 
pleted, will  make  a  total  of  upward  of 
1,000  miles. 

The  State  is  divided  into  99  counties, 
and  contains  a  population  estimated  at 
930,000.  Des  Moines  is  the  capital,  and 
Dubuque,  Davenport,  Keokuk,  Burlington, 
and  Iowa  City,  are  the  principal  commer- 
cial towns. 

I>ial>iiq'B3.e,  — Hotels,  Washington 
House  ;  Ju/kn  House. 

Routes. — From  Chicago,  by  the  G alexia 
and.  Cliicago  ( Central  North  Western)  and 
lUhiois  Central  Railways  to  Dunleith  (188 
miles).  From  St.  Louis,  steamer  up  the 
Mississippi  River,  450  miles,  or  by  railway 
through  Illinois.  Dubuque  is  upon  the 
v/est  bank  of  the  Upper  Mississippi,  in 
the  midst  of  a  very  picturesque  country. 
It  is  the  most  populous,  and,  with  the 
possible  exception  of  Iowa  City,  the  most 
beautiful  town  in  the  State.  It  occupies  a 
broad  terrace,  elevated  about  30  feet  above 
high  water  in  the  river,  and  nearly  600  feet 
above  the  waters  of  the  Mexican  Gulf 
JIany  fine  buildings  are  to  be  seen  here  ; 
among    others    the     Custom-Hoase    and 

a 

Episcopal  Seyninarif  and  Cathedral.  It 
contains  19  church  edifices  and  no  less 
than  9  newspaper  offices.  Dubuque  is 
the  oldest  town  in  Iowa,  having  been  set- 
tled by  French  missionaries  as  early  as 
16'73.     The  first  land  grant  was  obtained 


(1788)  by  Julien  Du  Buque,  after  whom 
the  city  is  named.  The  city  was  incor- 
porated in  1847,  and  is  divided  into  five 
wards.  Dubuque  is  the  centre  of  the 
lead  region  west  of  the  Mississippi,  as 
Galena  is  east  of  it,  and  also  the  entrepot 
for  the  rapidly  growing  trade  of  NorLhern 
Iowa.  The  average  annual  shipment  of 
lead  ore  from  this  point  amounts  to  five 
million  pounds.  It  is  the  eastern  ter- 
minus of  the  Sioux  City  Railway^  which 
is  in  operation  to  Iowa  Falls,  143  miles. 
Population  (estimated),  20,000.  Passen- 
gers for  the  tipper  and  Lower  Mississippi 
can  proceed  thither  either  by  river  or 
railway. 

H  El  2'  1  i  la  g  t  ©  SI  • — Hotel,  Bassett 
House. 

Burlington,  formerly  the  capital  of 
Iowa,  and  one  of  the  most  populous  and 
important  places  in  the  State,  i's  upon  the 
Mississippi  River,  259  miles  above  St. 
Louis,  45  miles  above  Keokuk,  and  88 
miles  east-southeast  of  Iowa  City.  (See  Chi- 
cago, for  routes  thither  from  the  Atlantic 
cities.)  From  that  point  proceed  by  the 
Chicago.^  Burlington^  and  Qtdncy  Railway^ 
210  miles  southwesterly,  across  the  State 
of  Illinois  to  Burlington.  Burlington  is 
partly  built  upon  the  blufis  which  charac- 
terize the  shores  of  the  Mississippi  in  this 
the  most  picturesque  portion  of  its  course 
from  the  Great  Lakes  to  the  Gulf  of  Mex- 
ico. Notwithstanding  the  removal  of  the 
seat  of  government  (1839),  it  continued 
to  gro^''  rapidly;  its  population  in  1854 
being  about  7,000.  The  famous  Indian 
chieftain.  Black  Hawk,  once  dwelt  at  Bur- 
lington, and  here  his  bones  lie  buried. 
The  Baptist  Co'lege  and  two  of  the  church 
edifices  are  noteworthy  structures.  It  is 
the  eastern  terminus  of  the  Burlington 
and  Missouri  River  Railway.  Packets  on 
the  Mississippi  River  call  here.  Popula- 
tion (1866),  12,320. 

UisaTeMport. — Hotel,  Le  Claire 
House. 

Davenport,  the  capital  of  Scott  County, 
is  on  the  Mississippi,  at  the  foot  of  the 
Upper  Rapids,  opposite  Rock  Island,  Illi- 
nois, 184  miles  southwest  of  Chicago, 
and  354  miles  above  St.  Louis.  It  is  the 
second  city  of  the  State  in  population  and 
trade,  and  the  third  in  manufactures. 
Gri^sioold  College,  established  in  1847,  is 


a  flourishing  institution. 


The  landscape 
207 


Iowa  City.] 


IOWA. 


[Muscatine. 


of  this  region  is  extremely  attractive. 
Ihc  town  was  first  settled  in  1837,  and 
is  largely  inhabited  by  Germans.  It  is 
the  eastern  terminus  of  the  Mississipi 
and  Missouri  Railway,  which  wall  soon  be 
in  operation  to  Council  Bluffs  and  Omaha 
on  the  Missouri  I\ivei\  A  fine  bridge  con- 
nects the  city  with  Eock  Island.  Popu- 
lation (estimated),  17,000. 

SoTra  City. — Hotel,  the  Clinton 
House. 

Iowa  City,  the  former  capital  of  the 
State,  is  charmingly  situated  upon  a 
range  of  bluffs,  w^hicli  form  the  left  bank 
of  the  Iowa  Kiver,  about  80  miles  from 
the  meeting  of  that  water  with  the  Mis- 
sissippi. It  may  be  reached  from  Cliica- 
go  by  the  Chicago  and  Rock  Island  Rail- 


way^ 


182  miles  from   Chicago   to   Rock 


I:^land,  on  the  Mississippi ;  and  thence  54 
miles  by  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri 
Railioay.  From  St.  Louis,  by  the  Illinois 
railways,  or  by  the  Mississippi  River,  to 
Davenport,  and  thence  54  miles,  as 
above. 

The  site  of  Iowa  City  was  a  wilderness 
in  1839,  when  it  was  selected  as  the  seat 
of  government  of  the  then  prospective 
State.  "Within  one  short  year  it  had  a 
population  of  600  or  700  people.  In 
18 GO  it  had  increased  to  upward  of 
5,000,  and  now  it  is  estimated  to  contain 
7,300.  The  town  is  delightfully  embos- 
omed in  shady  groves,  and  surrounded 
by  fertile  prairies.  At  the  intersection 
of  the  chief  streets — Iowa  Avenue  and 
Capitol  Street,  which  are  each  100  feet 
wide — stands  the  former  Slate-House^  a 
handsome  Doric  building,  120  feet  in 
length.  It  is  constructed  of  ringed  and 
spotted  stone,  called  "  bird's-eye  marble," 
which  was  quarried  in  the  neighborhood. 
This  edifice  and  its  extensive  grounds 
have  been  granted  to  the  ;S'/rt^e  University. 
The  Asylums  for  the  deaf,  the  blind,  and 
the  dumb,  are  spacious  edifices.  The  city 
has  an  academy  and  several  flourishing 
schools.  The  Iowa  River,  wliicli  is  nav- 
igable to  the  city  in  good  stages  of  water, 
affords  fine  water-power. 

E^eok:itU. —  Hotel,  the  Billings 
House. 

Keokuk  is  at  the  foot  of  the  Lower 
Rapids  of  the  Mississippi,  212  miles 
a))ove  ?.i.  Louis,  47  miles  below  Burling- 
ton, and  125  miles  below  Iowa  City.  (See 
208 


BcRLiNGTox,  for  Tonte  from  Chicago  and 
the  Eastern  cities  to  that  place.)  The 
rapids  are  11  miles  in  length,  and  have 
a  descent  of  24  feet.  This  is  the  head 
of  navigation  for  the  largest  steamers, 
and  the  outlet  for  the  rich  valley  of  the 
Des  Moines,  the  most  populous  portion  of 
the  State.  Fine  steamers  run  daily  be- 
tween Keokuk  and  St.  Louis.  The  Mis- 
sissippi is  here  about  one  mile  wide.  The 
Des  Moines  Valley  Railway  connects  it 
with  Ottumwa  (76  miles)  and  Des  Moines 
(162  miles).  The  Medical  Department  of 
the  State  University  is  located  here.  It 
has  also  three  academies  and  several 
good  schools.  Population  (estimated), 
12,500. 

^lu  sea  tine,  formerly  Blooming- 
ton,  the  flourishing  capital  of  Muscatine 
County,  is  upon  the  Mississippi,  112 
miles  above  Keokuk,  and  30  miles  below 
Davenport.  From  Chicago  take  the 
CJiicago  and  Rock  Island  Railway^  182 
miles  to  Rock  Island ;  thence,  via  the 
Mississipjn  and  Missouri  Railway^  27 
miles  to  Wilton  Junction,  and  thence  13 
miles  by  branch  road  to  Muscatine. 

Muscatine  is  at  the  apex  of  a  bend  in 
the  Mississippi,  on  the  summit  of  a  bold 
range  of  rocky  bluffs,  which  are  seen 
from  the  water  a  distance  of  40  miles. 
It  was  first  settled  by  the  whites  in  1836; 
before  that  period  it  was  an  Indian  tra- 
ding-post, called  Manatlieka.  It  w-as  in- 
corporated in  1853,  and  now  contains  a 
population  of  nearly  10,000. 

l-^ort  TfSadisoii  is  a  growing  town 
upon  the  Mississippi,  22  miles  above 
Keokuk,  and  the  same  distance  below 
Burlington. 

I>cp»  j^Soines,  selected  as  the  cap- 
ital of  Iowa  in  1855,  is  at  the  junction 
of  the  Des  Moines  and  Raccoon  Rivers, 
120  miles  west  of  Iowa  City.  It  is  162 
miles  from  Burlington  and  Keokuk  by 
the  RurUngion  and  Mississippi  River  and 
Des  Moines  Valley  Railways.  Steam- 
boats ascend  the  Des  Moines  to  this 
point  from  the  Mississippi.  The  railway 
from  Davenport  to  Council  Bluffs  is  to 
pass  through  Fort  Des  Moines.  The 
place  was  formerly  a  United  States  mili- 
tary post,  but  was  evacuated  in  1840. 
Population,  7,000. 

Cedar  l^^alls  and  Cedar  Ilapa 
ids  are  thriving  young  towns  on  Cedar 


Grinnell.] 


IOWA. 


[Grinnell. 


Elver,  connected  by  rail  with  Chicago 
and  the  principal  towns  of  Iowa  and 
Illinoifs, 

<»riimcll  is  on  the  Mississippi  and 
Missouri  Mailway,    120    miles   west  of 


Davenport,  and  66  miles  west  of  Iowa 
City.  It  is  the  seat  of  Iowa  College^  for- 
merly located  at  Davenport.  It  is  in  the 
heart  of  one  of  the  best  portions  of  the 
State,  and  is  growing  rapidly. 

209 


Minnesota.] 


MINNESOTA. 


r  Minnesota. 


MIIsr:N^ESOTA. 


Romantic  stories  of  the  wonders  of  the 
land,  which  now  forms  the  ne\v  State  of 
Minnesota,  were  told  more  than  two  cen- 
turies ago  by  the  zealous  French  mission- 
aries, who  had  even  at  that  remote  period 
pushed  their  adventures  thither;  never- 
theless, only  a  very  few  years  have  elapsed, 
since  imoiigration  has  earnestly  set  that 
way,  creating  populous  towns  and  culti- 
vated farms  along  the  rivers  and  valleys, 
before  occupied  by  the  canoe  and  the  wig- 
wam of  the  savage  alone.  Some  idea  of 
the  marvellous  productive  progress  of  this 
young  State  may  be  gained  from  the  fact 
that  the  crop  of  wheat — the  staple  product 
of  the  State — for  1860,  amounted  to  iif- 
tcen  millions  of  bushels.  The  magical 
development  of  Minnesota  is  in  keeping 
with  that  marvellous  spirit  of  progress 
so  characteristic  of  the  Western  sections 
of  the  United  States.  So  rapid  is  this 
growth,  and  on  such  a  sure  and  enlight- 
ened a  basis,  that  the  church  and  the 
school-house  spring  up  in  the  wilderness 
before  there  are  inhabitants  to  occupy 
them.  In  Minnesota,  one  of  the  earliest 
foundations  was  that  of  an  Historical 
Society  (1849),  established  almost  before 
the  history  of  the  country  had  begun. 
As  a  field  of  adventure,  both  for  the 
student  and  tlie  sportsman,  it  offers 
greater  attractions  than  perhaps  any  other 
State  in  the  West ;  while  the  beauty  of 
its  scenery  and  the  salubrity  of  its  cli- 
mate present  iuducomcnts  to  tlie  lover  of 
nature  and  the  invalil  which  will  always 
make  it  a  desirable  region  for  exploration 
and  scttk-nu'iit.  Miniiesota  occupies  an 
area  alaiost  four  times  as  great  as  that  of 
the  State  of  Ohio,  extending  from  the  Mis- 
sissippi and  the  St.  Croix  llivers,  and  from 
Lake  Superior  on  the  east  to  the  Missouri 
210 


and  the  White-Earth  Rivers  on  the  west, 
a  distance  of  more  than  400  miles  ;  and 
from  the  Iowa  line  on  the  south  to  the 
British  borders  on  the  north — also  400 
miles  apart.  The  entire  area  embraces 
53,760,000  acres.  Almost  the  whole  of 
this  vast  region  is  a  fine  rolling  prairie  of 
rich  soil,  a  sandy  loam  adapted  to  the 
short  summers  of  the  climate,  and  rt'hicli 
produces  bounteously.  The  surface  of 
the  country,  excepting  the  Missouri  plains, 
is  interspersed  with  numerous  beautiful 
lakes  of  fresh  water — all  abounding  in  the 
finest  fish,  and  their  banks  covered  with 
a  rich  growth  of  woodland.  The  land  is 
about  equally  divided  between  oak  open- 
ings and  prairies,  the  whole  well  watered 
bv  numerous  navigable  streams. 

In  the  eastern  section,  on  the  head- 
waters of  the  Slississippi,  Rum  River,  and 
the  St.  Croix,  are  extensive  pine  and  hard- 
wood forests,  apparently  inexhaustible  for 
centuries  ;  while  from  the  mouth  of  Croic- 
loing  River^  a  tributary  of  the  Mississippi, 
an  extensive  forest  of  hard-wood  timber, 
fifty  miles  in  width,  extends  southwest- 
erly into  the  country  watered  by  tlie  Blue- 
Earth  River,  a  tributary  of  the  Jliivtcsota 
Jiiver,  emptying  into  it  150  miles  above 
its  mouth.  The  latter  stream,  rising  near 
Lac  Traverse,  flows  southeasterly  a  dis- 
tance of  450  miles,  and  empties  into  the 
Mississippi  at  Fort  Snelling,  seven  miles 
above  St.  Paul,  and  the  same  distance  be- 
low St.  Anthony.  This  is  one  of  the  finest 
streams  in  the  valley  of  tlie  Mississippi, 
and  the  country  through  which  it  flows  is 
not  excelled  for  salubrity  of  climate  and 
fertility  of  soil  by  any  part  of  the  United 
States.  In  a  good  stage  of  water,  steam- 
boats can  ascend  it  almost  to  its  source. 
A  portage  of  three  miles  then  connects  it 


Minnesota.] 


MINNESOTA. 


[Minnesota. 


with  Lac  Traverse  ;  and  the  outlet  of  the 
latter,  the  Sionx  Wood  River,  with  the 
famous  Bed  Rivn-  of  the  North.  This 
stream  is  navigable  at  all  seasons  for 
steamboats  from  Eois  de  Sioux  (Sioux 
City)  to  Pembina,  on  the  British  line,  to 
the  Selkirk  settlements,  100  miles  beyond 
and  even  to  Lake  Winnipeg.  The  trade 
of  these  extensive  regions  will  eventually 
seek  a  market,  following  down  the  Min- 
nesota to  the  Mississippi  at  St.  Paul,  and 
thence  to  the  States  below.  A  railroad 
connection  is  already  made,  via  St.  Cloud 
with  the  St.  Paul  and  Pacific  Railway  to 
St.  Paul,  v/hence  work  is  rapidly  progress- 
ing on  the  extension  to  Winona.  (See 
Eati.ways.) 

The  only  interruption  to  the  navigation 
of  the  Lower  Mranesota  River  in  dry  sea- 
sons is  what  are  called  the  "  Rapids," 
some  40  miles  above  its  mouth.  This  is  a 
ledge  of  sandstone  rock,  extending  across 
the  stream,  and  will  soon  be  removed. 

The  Mississippi  above  St.  Anthony  is 
navigable  in  good  stages  of  water  for  light- 
draught  boats  an  almost  indefinite  dis- 
tance  to  the  north,  and  packets  have  run 
regularly  as  far  as  the  Sauk  Rapids  (80 
miles),  which,  with  the  Little  Palls  (40 
miles  beyond),  are  the  main  obstacles  in  a 
navigation  of  over  400  miles  from  St.  An- 
thony to  the  Falls  of  the  Pokegama.  The 
Pacific  Road  being  now  in  operation  from 
St.  Paul  to  St.  Cloud,  and  rapidly  pro- 
gressing northward,  travel  will  henceforth 
seek  the  land  route.  St.  Croix  Lalce  and 
River  are  navigable  to  the  F.dls,  60  miles 
above  the  junction  of  the  lake  and  Mis- 
sissippi ;  and  the  Si.  Louis  River  is  navi- 
gable from  Lake  Superior  20  miles  to 
Fond  du  Lac.  Numerous  otlier  streams 
are  navigable  for  light-draught  steamers 
and  flat-bovits  from  50  to  100  miles,  pene- 
trating into  the  interior  to  the  pineries, 
and  giving  easy  access  into  the  country 
in  all  directions.  These  are  the  Blue- 
Earthy  Rum.,  Ell\  SauJc,  Crow,  Crow- 
vAng,  Vermilion,  and  Cannon  Rivers. 

On  the  northeastern  border  of  the  ter- 
ritory is  Lake  Superior,  with  its  valuable 
fisheries  and  its  shores  abounding  in  in- 
exhaustible mines  of  copper,  coal,  iron, 
etc.,  besides  affording  the  facility  of  that 
vast  inland  sea  for  immigration  and  com- 
merce.    (See  The  Lake  Region.) 

The  Mississippi,  taking  its  rise  in  Itasca 


Lake,  in  the  northern  portion  of  the  State, 
flows  by  a  devious  course  for  some  800 
miles  through  the  eastern  part,  and  below 
tlie  mouth  of  the  St.  Croix  forms  the  di- 
viding line  between  Minnesota  and  Wis- 
consin for  some  200  miles  more  to  the 
Iowa  line.  This  mighty  river  gives  the 
State  the  whole  lower  valley  to  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico  for  a  perpetual  market  for  its 
agricultural  produce,  lumber,  and  manu- 
factures. Various  elevated  ridges  trav- 
erse the  territory  of  Minnesota,  tliough 
the  State  is  far  from  being  of  a  mountain- 
ous character.  The  plateau  called  the 
Couteaii  cles  Prairies,  or  the  Prairie 
Heights,  is  one  of  these  singular  terraces. 
It  extends  200  miles,  with  a  breadth  vary- 
ing from  20  to  40  miles.  The  average 
elevation  of  this  lofty  plain  is  some  1,500 
feet,  and  in  some  parts  it  rises  nearly 
2,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  In 
the  north  it  is  about  900  feet  above  the 
neighboring  waters  of  Big-Stone  Lake. 
There  is  another  range  of  wooded  heights, 
reaching  100  miles  or  more,  called  the 
"  Coteau  du  Grand  Bois."  Then  there 
are  the  "  Hauteurs  de  Terre,"  highlands 
v/hich  extend  some  300  miles.  These 
last-mentioned  ridges  form  the  dividing 
line  of  the  rivers,  Avhich  flow  to  Hudson's 
Bay  on  one  side  and  to  the  Mississippi 
and  Lake  Superior  on  the  other. 

The  Lakes  of  Mimiesoia,  which  are  very 
numerous,  form  one  of  the  most  invit- 
ing and  picturesque  features  of  the  State. 
They  are  found  in  every  section,  and  are 
annually  visited  by  large  numbers  of 
tourists  and  sportsmen.  Sometimes  they 
are  little  ponds  a  mile  in  circumference, 
and  again  sheets  of  water  40  or  50  miles 
in  extent.  Their  shores  are  charmingly 
wooded,  and  frequently  present  fine  pic- 
tures of  cliflf  and  headland.  The  waters 
are  pure  and  transparent,  and  are  filled 
with  white-fish,  trout,  pike,  pickerel,  suck- 
er, percl),  and  other  finny  inhabitants. 
The  largest  of  these  lakes  are  the  Miime- 
tonka,  tlie  Osakis  or  Spirit  Lake,  Wh/te 
Rear,  KandiyoJd,  Otter  tail,  and  211  le 
Lac.  Lake  Pepin.,  a  beautiful  expansion 
of  the  Mississippi,  is  in  this  region.  On 
its  east  bank  is  the  ^amoM?,  Maiden^ s  Rock, 
400  feet  high  ;  and  near  the  northern  end 
the  La  Grange  Mountain  rises  in  a  bold 
headland,  230  feet  above  the  water.  (See 
Lake  City.)     Rainy  Lake,  Minnie-  Waken 

211 


St.  Paul.] 


3IIXXES0TA. 


[St.  Paui, 


or  Devil  Lake^  Red  and  Leach  Lakes^  are 
all  in  this  State. 

St.  Paul. — Hotels,  the  Interna- 
tional^ the  Merchants' ;  both  spacious  and 
eleacant  establishments.  The  Glohe  is 
conducted  on  the  European  plan. 

EouTES. — From  Chicago,  via  the  North- 
western and  MihoaiiJcee  and  St.  Paid  Rail- 
ways to  the  Mississippi,  at  La  Crosse; 
thence  by  steamer  to  Winona ;  and  thence 
by  Winona  and  St.  Peter  and  Minnesota 
Central  Railways^  via  Owatomia,  to  St. 
Paul '.  or  the  Chicago  and  St.  Paul  Rail- 
way, from  Chicago  to  Prairie  du  Chien,  on 
the  Mississippi ;  thence  by  steamer  in  sum- 
mer and  stages  in  winter. — Total  dis- 
tance, 412  miles. 

St.  Paul,  the  capital  and  chief  city  of 
Minnesota,  and  the  commercial  metropolis 
of  the  extreme  Northwest,  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, 2,116  miles  north  of  New  Orleans, 
and  798  above  St.  Louis.  It  occupies  a 
picturesque  and  commanding  position 
upon  what  was  formerly  a  bluff  70  feet 
high,  but  which  the  rapidly  increasing 
demands  of  travel  and  traffic  have  accom- 
modated to  a  row  of  terraces  or  benches, 
on  which  a  large  portion  of  the  business 
of  the  city  is  now  carried  on. 

St.  Paul  is  one  of  the  oldest  settle- 
ments in  the  State.  Father  Hennepin 
visited  it  in  1680.  He  was  followed  by 
Carver,  who  made  a  treaty  with  the  Da- 
kotali  Indians  in  1766.  Carvcr''s  Cave, 
under  Dayton's  Bluff,  where  this  treaty 
is  said  to  have  been  made,  forms  one  of 
the  "  sights  "  of  tlie  place.  Imminijaska, 
or  "  White  Rock,"  the  name  by  which 
the  site  of  the  town  was  known  to  the 
Indians,  was  doubtless  given  to  it  on 
account  of  its  location  on  a  high  bluflf 
of  white  sandstone  which  then  formed 
a  prominent  landmark  from  the  river. 
The  first  actual  settlement  was  made 
in  18;i8,  by  Parraut,  a  Canadian.  Father 
Gaultier,  a  Catholic  missionary,  built  a 
log  chapel  near  the  edge  of  the  bluff 
in  1840,  which  he  named  St.  Paul,  by 
which  appellation  the  settlement  then 
became  known.  The  singular  and  some- 
what unworthy  name  of  "  Pig's  Eye  " 
was  given  it  in  1848,  but  shortly  af- 
ter clianged.  Upon  the  organization 
of  the  Territory  (1849)  the  capital  was 
located  at  St.  Paul,  since  which  time 
212 


the  place  has  grown  and  improved  rap- 
idly. The  town  was  incorporated  in 
1849,  and  the  city  of  St.  Paul,  March  4, 
1854.  It  has  a  front  on  the  river  of  be- 
tween three  and  four  miles,  and  embraces 
an  area  of  3,200  acres.  The  streets  laid 
out  and  partially  built  upon  number  over 
200.  At  the  organization  of  the  territory, 
in  1849,  the  white  inhabitants  of  the 
place  numbered  50 ;  in  1860,  the  popu- 
lation had  increased  to  10,277,  and  in 
1865  to  15,107. 

The  city,  considering  the  natural  diffi- 
culties to  be  overcome  in  preparing  the 
site,  is  regularlv  laid  out  and  well  jjuilt ; 

JO*  ' 

the  abundance  of  excellent  limestone  and 
building  material  in  the  vicinity  contrib- 
uting largely  to  its  substantial  and 
handsome  appearance.  It  is  divided  into 
five  Avards,  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  con- 
tains a  population  estimated  (1867)  at 
17,500. 

Among  the  prominent  public  buildings, 
the  State-House,  from  its  conspicuous 
locale,  will  attract  the  stranger's  atten- 
tion. It  is  a  brick  edifice,  140  feet  long 
by  53  Avide,  and  surmounted  by  a  dome. 
The  New  Opera-House  is  a  commodious 
brick  building,  stuccoed,  and  capable  of 
seating  2,000  persons.  The  Slate  Arsenal 
is  on  St.  Peter  Street,  near  Eighth.  Tiie 
Cathedral  of  St.  Paul,  erected  in  1854, 
is  centrally  located  at  the  corner  of  St. 
Peter  and  Sixth  Streets.  There  are  nine- 
teen other  church  edifices,  a  majority  of 
which  are  of  recent  construction.  Among 
the  educational  and  literary  institutions, 
the  most  noteworthy  is  the  Historical 
Society  which  occupies  rooms  in  Inger- 
sol's  Hall,  at  the  intersection  of  Waba- 
sha w  and  Third  Streets.  It  was  incor- 
porated in  1849,  and  has  a  library  of 
several  thousand  volumes.  The  Athc- 
memyi  is  at  the  corner  of  Exchange  and 
Pine  Streets.  Besides  these,  there  are 
fifteen  colleges,  and  male  and  female 
schools,  and  eight  public  halls,  concert, 
and  assembly  rooms.  Many  of  the  views 
in  the  vicinity  of  St.  Paul  are  very  beau- 
tiful,  and  they  have  been  faithfully  ])lio- 
tographcd  by  Whitney  and  Martin, 
whose  galleries,  on  Third  Street,  arc  well 
worthy  a  visit.  « 

The  vicinity  of  St.  Paul  has  many 
pleasant  walks  and  drives.  The  City 
Park  in  front   of    the    City   Hall,    the 


St,  Anthony.] 


MINNESOTA. 


[The  Falls  of  St.  Anthony 


Park  Place  grounds  on  Summit  Avenue 
and  the  blulf  tops  between  the  upper 
and  lower  towns,  including  Dayton'' s 
Bluff  and  Carver's  Cave,  all  command 
fine  views. 

Among  tlie  drives,  those  to  Lake 
Coiuo,  Oakland  Cemcterij,  Minnehaha 
Falls,  and  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  are 
the  most  attractive  and  most  popular. 
"  Oakland"  is  one  mile  and  a  half  from 
the  city,  and  embraces  about  200  acres 
of  land,  exclusive  of  the  Episcopal  Ceme- 
tery, which  adjoins  it.  Beyond  Lake 
Como  are  White  Bear  Lake,  Bass  Lake, 
and  numerous  other  choice  waters, 
aboimding  in  fish. 

Fountain  Cave  is  a  remarkable  spot  two 
or  three  miles  above  St.  Paul.  A  pas- 
sage-way, 25  feet  high,  and  nearly  as 
wide,  leads  into  a  cavern  of  white  sand- 
stone, which  has  been  penetrated  for 
1,000  feet;  first  by  a  gallery  150  feet  in 
length  and  20  feet  broad,  and  afterward 
through  narrow  passes.  A  rivulet  fol- 
lows the  course  of  this  cave. 

In  favorable  weather  one  of  the  most 
delightful  drives  in  the  neighborhood  of 
St.  Paul  is  that  to  St.  Anthony  and  Min- 
neapolis, returning  by  the  Falls  (Minne- 
haha) and  Fort  Snelling. 

The  excursion  will  occupy  the  whole  or 
greater  portion  of  the  day,  affording 
ample  opportunity  to  see  these  towns  and 
all  the  points  of  interest  by  the  way.  A 
more  expeditious  and  cheaper,  but  not  so 
pleasant  a  route,  is  that  by  the  St.  Paul 
and  Pacific  Railway  to  St.  Anthony  (10 
miles),  thence  by  stage  to  Minneapolis  (1 
mile),  thence  by  Minnesota  Central  Rail- 
way to  Minnehaha  (5  miles),  thence  to 
Fort  Snelling  (2  miles),  thence  to  Mendota 
(2  miles),  and  thence  to  St.  Paul  (G  miles). 

^t.  Aiatlaoity, — St.  Anthony  is  a 
thriving  town  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Mississippi,  at  the  famous  Falls  of  St. 
Anthony,  10  miles  above  St.  Paul.  The 
village  is  situated  upon  a  lofty  terrace 
overlooking  the  falls.  It  was  incorpo- 
rated in  1855  and  contains  3,500  inhabi- 
tants. Its  position  at  the  head  of  navi- 
gation on  the  Father  of  Waters,  below 
the  falls,  is  of  immense  commercial  con- 
sideration, and  the  falls  afford  incalcula- 
ble water-power  for  manufactories.  The 
State  University,  and  the  Winslow  House 
building,  now  used  for  the  purposes  of  a 


ITygienic  Water  Cure,  are  seen  in  ap- 
proaching or  entering  the  town.  It  is 
connected  witli  Minneapolis  by  a  suspen- 
sion bridge  620  feet  in  length,  erected  in 
1855. 

Flic  Falls  oV  N^.  AiatBiony, 
the  principal  attraction  hereabouts,  can 
be  seen  with  about  equal  advantage  from 
either  shore.  The  fall  is  18  feet  perpen- 
dicular with  a  rapid  descent  of  50  feet 
within  a  distance  of  one  mile.  The  river 
at  this  point  is  divided  by  an  island  (Ni- 
collet), as  at  Niagara,  where  it  rushes 
over  a  bold  and  broad  ledge  of  lime- 
stone. 

A  friend  visiting  these  falls  in  1856 
wrote :  "  I  know  not  hov/  other  men 
feel  when  standing  there,  nor  how  men 
will  feel  a  century  hence,  when  standing 
there — then,  not  in  the  west,  but  almost 
in  the  centre  of  our  great  nation.  But 
when  I  stood  there,  and  reflected  on  the 
distance  beeween  that  and  the  place  of 
my  birth  and  my  home  ;  on  the  prairies 
over  which  I  had  passed ;  and  the  stream 
— the  '  Father  of  Rivers  ' — up  which  I 
had  sailed  some  500  miles,  into  a  new  and 
unsettled  land — where  the  children  of  the 
forest  still  live  and  roam — I  had  views  of 
the  greatness  of  my  country,  such  as  I 
have  never  had  in  the  crowded  capitals 
and  smiling  villages  of  the  East.  Far  in 
the  distance  did  they  then  seem  to  be,  and 
there  came  over  the  soul  the  idea  of 
greatness  and  vastness,  which  no  figures, 
no  description,  had  ever  conveyed  to  my 
mind.  To  an  inexperienced  traveller, 
too,  how  strange  is  the  appearance  of  ail 
that  land !  Those  boundless  prairies 
seem  as  if  they  had  been  cleared  by  the 
patient  labor  of  another  race  of  men,  re- 
moving all  the  forests,  and  roots,  and 
stumps,  and  brambles,  and  smoothing 
them  down  as  if  with  mighty  rollers,  and 
sowing  them  with  grass  and  flowers :  a 
race  which  then  passed  awa}',  having 
built  no  houses  of  their  own,  and  made 
no  fences,  and  set  out  no  trees,  and  estab- 
lished no  landmarks,  to  lay  the  founda- 
tion of  any  future  claim.  The  mour.ds, 
which  you  here  and  there  see,  look,  indeed, 
as  if  a  portion  of  them  had  died  and  had 
been  buried  there ;  but  those  mounds  and 
those  boundless  fields  had  been  forsaken 
together.  You  ascend  the  Mississippi 
amid  scenery  unsurpassed  in  beauty  prob- 

213 


Minneapolis.] 


MINNESOTA. 


[Fort  Snelling. 


ably  in  the  world.  Yon  sec  the  waters 
making  their  way  along  an  intervale  of 
from  two  to  four  miles  in  width,  between 
bluils  of  from  100  to  500  feet  in  height. 
Now  the  river  makes  its  way  along  the 
eastern  range  of  blufis,  and  now  the 
western,  and  now  in  the  eeutre,  and  now 
it  divides  itself  into  numerous  channels, 
forming  thousands  of  beautil'ul  islands, 
covered  with  long  grass  ready  for  the 
scythe  of  the  mower.  Those  bluffs, 
rounded  with  taste  and  skill,  such  as 
could  be  imitated  by  no  art  of  man,  and 
set  out  with  trees  here  and  there,  grace- 
fully arranged  like  orchards,  seem  to  have 
been  sown  with  grain  to  the  summit,  and 
are  clothed  with  beautiful  green.  You 
look  out  instinctively  for  the  house  and 
barn;  for  flocks  and  herds  ;  for  men,  and 
women,  and  children  ;  but  they  are  not 
there.  A  race  that  is  gone  seems  to 
have  cultivated  those  fields,  and  then  to 
have  silently  disappeared — leaving  them 
for  the  first  man  that  should  come  from 
the  older  parts  of  our  own  country,  or 
from  foreign  lands,  to  take  possession  of 
them.  It  is  only  by  a  process  of  reflec- 
tion that  you  are  convinced  that  it  is  not 
so.  But  it  is  not  the  %vork  of  man.  It 
is  God  who  has  done  it,  w  hen  there  was 
no  man  there  save  the  wandering  savage, 
alike  ignorant  and  unconcerned  as  to  the 
design  of  the  great  processes  in  tlic  land 
where  he  roamed — God  wlio  did  all  this, 
that  He  might  ])repare  it  for  the  abode  of 
a  civilized  and  Cliristian  people." 

The  scene  even  now  (1866)  is  not  much 
changed.  To  be  sure,  there  is  a  busy 
settlement  at  and  around  St.  Anthony. 
The  whirring  sound  of  the  saw-mill  and 
the  "busy  hum  of  industry"  are  he;ird, 
but  still  it  is  nature  and  nature  alone  that 
imjjresses  and  possesses  you. 

Nicollet  Island  lies  between  the  two 
villiiges,  and  affords,  by  means  of  a  bridge 
at  this  point,  son>e  pleasant  rambles. 
Tiie  larger  fall  is  on  the  western  side  of 
the  island.  It  is  310  yards  in  width.  It 
is  estimated  that  about  seventy-five  mil- 
lion ieet  of  lumber  are  annually  made  at 
these  fills. 

Mill fiaoa polls,  the  capital  cf  Hen- 
nepin County,  and  one  of  the  most  popu- 
lous and  flouiisliing  points  in  the  State, 
is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Mis- 
Bissii)i)i  in  full  view  of  the  falls  and  the 
2U 


town  of  St.  Anthony.  It  is  the  northern 
terminiis  of  the  Minnesota  Cndral  Rail- 
wan  ^^'^  ^'-^s  immediate  connection  with 
St.  Paul,. Winona,  Mendota,  and  all  other 
important  towns  in  the  State.  Tlie  town 
Is  well  built  and  contains  several  commo- 
dious buildings,  among  which  the  Court- 
House^  the  vaiious  mills,  and  the  two  lead- 
ing hotels,  the  Kicollet  House^  and  First 
National  Hotel,  are  the  most  prominent. 
The  Music  Hall,  Athenwuui  (Post-Ofrice), 
and  Harrison  Hall  are  also  among  the 
principal  buildings.  Like  its  neighbor, 
St.  Anthony,  Minneapolis  derives  much 
of  its  prosperity  from  the  adjacent  falls. 
The  saw  and  grist  mills  are  numerous  and 
extensive.  A  short  distance  south  of 
the  town  is  an  enclosure  of  '75  acres 
which  is  used  as  a  Driving  Pari'.  Silver 
Cascade  and  Bridal  Veil  Falls  are 
reached  in  an  easy  ride  from  Minneapolis. 
Lakes  Harriet  and  Calhoun  afford  de- 
lightful drives  and  sport.  Lalce  Minne- 
ionlci  is  12  miles  westward  The  village 
of  Excelsior,  on  the  south  side  of  the 
lake,  18  miles  from  Minneapolis  and  27 
miles  from  St.  Paul,  is  a  pleasant  sum- 
mer resort. 

Mi  11 II cla alia.  Fal3s — sometimes 
but  erroneously  called  Brown's  Falls — is  a 
beautil'ul  cascade  located  between  four 
and  five  miles  from  Minneapolis  on  the 
direct  road  to  Fort  Snelling  and  Men- 
dota. They  are  the  outlet  of  several 
small  lakes,  and  have  a  perpendicular  de- 
scent of  57  feet.  Refreshments  may  be 
obtained  during  the  season  at  a  house  a 
few  rods  below  the  falls. 

Two  miles  from  this  lovely  fall  stands 
Fort  Snelling. 

l'"*©!*!  Siii'lliiig",  6  miles  from  St. 
Paul,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Minnesota 
or  St.  Peter  and  Mississippi  Elvers,  on 
the  west  side  of  the  latter  river,  should 
not  be  omitted  1)y  the  stranger  in  makmg 
his  tour  in  this  locahty.  For  half  a  cen- 
tury it  has  been  known  far  and  Avide  for 
the  prominence  and  beauty  of  its  situa- 
tion. On  the  23d  of  September,  1805, 
Lieutenant  Z.  M.  Pike  held  a  conierence 
with  the  Sioux  Indians  on  the  island  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Mississippi  and  Min- 
nesota Rivers,  which  now  beais  hisnanie,! 
and  which  has  since  become  famous  as  anj 
Indian  treaty-ground.  The  corner-stonef 
of  the  present  fort,  which  ^vas  then  known 


Mendota.] 


MINNESOTA. 


[The  Sioux  Rapids. 


as  Fort  St.  Anthony,  was  laid  September 
JO,  1820,  and  so  far  completed  as  to  be  oc- 
eupied  by  troops  in  1822.  It  was  visited 
by  General  Scott  in  182-1,  and  the  name 
changed  to  Fort  SnelUng  in  compliment 
to  Colonel  Josiali  Snelling,  who  command- 
ed the  post  and  under  whose  supervision 
it  was  coust^ructed.  The  rescrvalion  em- 
braces 10,000  acres.  Colonel  Alexander 
is  the  pi-eseut  commandant  at  the  Fort. 
General  Terry,  the  hero  of  Fort  Fisher, 
has  lately  been  ordered  to  the  command 
of  this  department,  with  headquarters  at 
Fort  Snelling.  The  buildings  of  the  gar- 
rison are  upon  a  high  bluff,  probably  200 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  water  in  the 
rivers.  This  bluff  extends  to  the  nortli 
and  west  in  a  gently  undulating  and  very 
fertile  prairie,  interspersed  here  and  there 
with  groves  of  heavy  timber. 

Mendotay  which  lies  about  half  a  mile 
below  the  mouth  of  the  Minnesota  and  2 
miles  by  rail  from  Fort  Snelling  was  for- 
merly a  trading-post  of  the  American  Fiu' 
Company,  but  is  now  mainly  important  to 
the  traveller  as  a  point  of  convergence 
and  radiation  for  the  several  railway  lines 
leading  to  and  from  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis, 
and  Winona.  Until  within  a  few  years  it 
was  included  in  the  military  reserve  of 
Fort  Snelling.  It  has  not  attained  that 
degree  of  prosperity  so  remarkable  in  the 
villages  of  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis,  and 
which  its  far  more  favorable  position 
might  justly  have  secured  for  it.  The 
vicinity  commands  some  fine  views.  From 
Pilot  Knob ^  which  lies  back  of  Mendota,  a 
view  may  be  obtained  of  the  surrounding- 
country  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  af- 
fording to  the  spectator  a  sight  of  one  of 
the  most  charming  natural  pictures  to  be 
found  in  this  State,  so  justly  celebrated  for 
scenic  beauty.  The  view  embraces  within 
a  circle  of  eight  or  nine  miles,  a  gi'and 
spectacle  of  rolling  prairie,  extended  plain 
and  groves,  the  valley  of  the  Minnesota 
with  its  meandering  stream,  a  bird's-eye 
view  of  Fort  Snelling,  Lake  Harriet  in 
the  distance — the  town  of  St.  Anthony 
just  visible  through  the  nooks  of  the 
intervening  groves — and  St.  Paul,  looking 
hke  a  city  set  upon  a  hill,  its  building-i 
and  spiles  distinctly  visible,  and  present- 
ing in  appearance  the  distant  view  of  a 
city  containing  a  population  of  a  hundred 
thousand  human  beings. 


The  St.  Croix  Falls,  or  Rapids,  are  in 
the  St.  Croix  River,  54  miles  from  its 
mouth.  The  St.  Croix  continues  the 
boimdary  line  between  Wisconsin  and 
Minnesota,  in  the  upper  half  of  the  State, 
formed  below  by  the  waters  of  the 
Mississippi.  The  falls  in  the  St.  Croix 
have  a  descent  of  50  feet  in  300  }ards. 
The  perpendicular  walls  of  trap  rock,  be- 
tween which  the  waters  make  their  bois- 
terous way,  present  a  scene  of  remark- 
ably picturesque  interest.  This  wild  pass 
is  about  half  a  mile  below  the  Rapids. 
It  is  called  the  Dalles  of  the  St.  Croix. 

Ijake  St.  Croix,  an  expansion  of  the 
river,  36  miles  in  length,  which  opens  out 
shortly  after  leaving  the  Mississippi,  is  a 
beautiful  sheet  of  water.  Steamers  run 
up  the  St.  Croix  Lake  and  River  to  the 
falls. 

The  Sioux  Rapids,  in  the  Sioux  River, 
form  another  striking  feature  in  the  va- 
ried landscape  of  this  region.  The  pass  is 
through  a  grand  quartz  formation.  The 
descent  of  the  waters  is  100  feet  in  400 
yards.  There  are  three  perpendicular 
falls  of  from  10  to  20  feet. 

The  Falls  of  the  St.  Louis  River  are 
a  series  of  rapids  extending  16  miles,  the 
waters  making,  in  that  distance,  a  descent 
of  320  feet.  These  cataracts  terminate 
about  20  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the 
river. 

In  our  enumeration  of  the  landscape 
features  and  attractions  of  Minnesota, 
we  have  included  only  a  few  of  the  lead- 
ing and  most  accessible  scenes.  The 
sportsman  here  will  find  plenty  to  do, 
whether  it  be  with  his  gun  in  the  woods, 
or  with  his  line  by  the  marge  of  the  grace- 
ful waters.  Immense  herds  of  buffalo, 
deer,  elk,  antelope,  and  other  noble  deni- 
zens of  the  forest,  still  roam  over  the 
western  plains,  and  the  moose  and  the 
grizzly  bear,  the  otter  and  the  wolf,  may 
all  yet  be  found  in  tlie  northern  and  north- 
western sections  of  the  State. 

After  the  traveller  has  spent  a  few  days 
in  St.  Paul  and  its  vicinity,  and  still  feels 
disposed  to  lengthen  his  stay  in  Minnesota, 
he  will  find  both  pleasure  and  profit  in 
visiting  the  towns  along  the  Pacific  route 
from  St.  Anthony  northward,  pushing  bis 
explorations  into  the  Selkirk  Settlement 
and  British  America.  For  the  guidance 
of  such  as  propose  making  the  trip,  we 

215 


St.  Cloud.] 


MINNESOTA. 


[Shakopee. 


append  the  names  and  locations  of  such 
points  on  the  route  as  through  necessity 
or  choice  he  may  sojourn  at. 

i^jiiiioii&iit,  the  capital  of  the  coun- 
ty of  the  same  name,  is  a  small  village  on 
the  east  bank  of  tbeilississippi,  17  miles 
north  of  St.  Paul.     Population,  700. 

Ai&oka,  (25  miles),  the  county  seat 
of  Anoka  County,  is  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  ilille  Lac  (Rum  River),  at  its  conflu- 
ence with  the  Mississippi.  It  was  sur- 
veyed in  1854  and  contains  a  hotel,  three 
churches,  several  stores,  and  about  1,200 
inhabitants. 

St.  CloaidL  (74  miles),  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Mississippi,  at  the  foot  of 
Sauk  Rapids,  is  the  pi-esent  (1866) 
northern  terminus  of  the  St.  Paul  and 
Pacific  Railway^  and  a  thriving  place  of 
1,500  inhabitants.  A  railway  is  projected 
from  St.  Cloud  to  Superior  City,  120 
miles.  There  is  a  good  hotel  (Fletcher 
House),  and  several  fine  buildings. 

From  St.  Cloud  the  adventurous  trav- 
eller may  pursue  his  journey  200  miles  to 
the  Red  River,  or  still  farther  to  Fort 
Garry,  in  British  America.  The  writer 
has  made  the  distance  in  mid-winter  in 
moccasins  and  snow-shoes,  in  company 
with  the  drivers  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany's carts,  and  enjoyed  it  heartily. 

Two  miles  north  of  St.  Cloud  lies  the 
village  of  Sauk  Rapids.  The  river  here 
f.dls  15  feet  in  a  distance  of  half  a  mile, 
and  furnishes  a  valuable  water-power. 
The  Mississippi  above  the  rapids  flows 
througli  a  level  country,  interspersed  \\»ith 
timber,  as  far  as  Crow  \Ving.  Watah  and 
Liltle  Falls  are  as  yet  small  places  lying 
on  the  great  river  between  St.  Cloud  and 
Crow  Wing. 

Ca*o^v  Wiiag',  on  the  east  bank  of 
the  Mississippi  River,  and  opposite  the 
moutli  of  Crow-Wing  River,  is  an  impor- 
tant Indian  trading-post,  and  prospective- 
ly a  place  of  considerable  importance,  in 
connection  with  the  Pacific  Railway  which 
will  eventually  ))C  extend'jd  northward  to 
Pembina.  It  is  120  miles  from  St.  Paul, 
and  can  be  reached,  with  the  aid  of  the 
railway  to  St.  Cloud,  in  two  days  and  a 
half.  The  Cliipix-wa  Agcnc;/  is  on  Crow- 
Wing  River,  23  miles  west  of  the  Missis- 
sippi. Here  the  annual  payments  are 
made  in  October.  In  favorable  weather 
this  affords  a  pleasant  detour  from  the 
210 


line  of  travel  to  Pembina  and  the  Selkirk 
Settlement.  Otter-Tail  Lake  and  the 
adjacent  waters  lie  about  two  days'  jour- 
ney northwest  of  the  Agency,  and  offer 
great  attractions  to  sportsmen.  A  recent 
writer  describes  them  as  being  of  the 
purest  water,  and  abounding  in  delicious 
fish  of  different  kinds.  "  The  principal 
game  left  is  wild  fowl,  among  which  may 
be  named  as  most  plenty  the  prairie 
chicken,  grouse,  partridges,  ducks,  and 
wild  geese.  Deer,  elk,  beai",  foxes,  bad- 
gers, and  other  fur-bearing  animals,  here- 
tofore numerous,  are  now  scarce,  being 
nearly  exterminated  by  the  Indians,  who 
are  expert  huntsmen.  The  healthy  influ- 
ence of  this  section  of  the  country  is  un- 
rivalled, it  being  a  luxury  to  breathe  the 
pure  air  of  this  region.  Buffalo  and  other 
large  game  may  be  found  west  of  Red 
River,  affording  wholesome  food,  while 
wheat  and  vegetables  are  raised  in  great 
abundance  wherever  settlements  have 
been  made."  The  entire  trip  from  St. 
Paul  to  Red  Lake  and  River,  via  St. 
Cloud,  Crow  Wing,  the  Chippewa  Agency, 
and  Otter-Tail  Lake,  and  return,  might  be 
made  very  comfortably  in  from  four  to 
six  weeks.  The  best  season  in  which  to 
make  the  trip  is  during  the  months  of 
September  and  October,  though  it  migiit 
be  made  later  without  serious  personal 
discomfort.     (See  Lake  Region.) 

The  Miiinesotu  Valley. — 
(See  Minnesota  River.) — Tourists  desir- 
ous to  see  this  lovely  valley  will  take  the 
Valley  Railway  at  St.  Paul  or  ilendota, 
visiting  theditferent  towns  through  which 
it  passes.  Nicollet  and  Hamilton  are 
stations  on  this  road — the  former  11,  the 
latter  18  miles  from  St.  Paul. 

Slisftli^opee,  the  capital  of  Scott 
County,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
south  l)ank  of  the  river  (Minnesota),  28 
miles  by  railway  and  32  by  boat  from  St. 
Paul.  It  occupies  the  site  of  an  Indian 
village,  named  after  the  chief  who  inhab- 
ited it,  and  was  laid  out  bv  Tliomas 
Holmes  in  1852.  The  St.  Paul  House  is 
the  leading  hotel. 

CBiasEcn.  and  Carver  (32  miles) 
are  grc^wing  towns,  the  former  situated 
on  the  north,  the  latter  on  the  south  bank 
of  the  Minnesota  River.  The  Moravian 
Academy  at  Chaska,  established  in  1864,  F 
is  a  flourishing  institution.      Carver  is  at 


Belle  Plaine.] 


MINNESOTA. 


[Lake  City. 


the  head  of  navigation  durlnir  the  season 
of  low  water,  and  merchaiulise  is  here 
transshipped  in  considerable  quantities. 

BSelto  I^IsbIehc  (47  miles)  was  laid 
out  in  1851,  and  now  eontains  about  1,000 
inhabitants.  It  is  the  present  terminus 
of  the  Valley  Railway.  It  is  49  miles  by 
steamboat  from  St.  Paul.  Henderso:} 
and  Le  /Seur,  the  county  seats  of  Sibley 
and  Le  Seur  Counties,  are  on  the  line  of 
the  Iliiinesota  Valley  road,  between 
Belle  Plaine  and  Mankato.  The  trade  of 
these  points  is  as  yet  conducted  by  river 
during  the  season  of  navigation.  The 
distance  from  St.  Paul  by  river  is  80  and 
90  miles  respectively. 

St,  I*etei*,  the  capital  of  Nicollet 
County,  is  advantageously  situated  on  the 
Minnesota  River,  118  miles  from  St.  Paul. 
It  is  the  proposed  terminus  of  the  Whioiia 
and  St.  Peter  Faihoay,  at  present  oper- 
ated to  Wautonna.  Distance  from  Wino- 
na, 150  miles. 

Mastliato,  the  county  seat  of  Blue- 
Earth  County,  is  at  the  head  of  permanent 
navigation  in  the  Minnesota  or  St.  Peter 
River,  148  miles  from  its  mouth.  It  is  in 
the  midst  of  a  fertile  country,  and  must 
eventually  become  a  place  of  considerable 
importance.     Population  3,000. 

Me"V¥'  Ulsia  is  a  flourishing  village  on 
the  Minnesota  River,  55  miles  above  Man- 
kato. It  was  laid  out  in  1856,  and  was 
the  scene  of  the  Indian  massacre,  Au- 
gust 19,  18(32.  It  now  contains  1,000  in- 
habitants, mostly  Germans. 

l<''sBi*ll>aTiiIt,  the  capital  of  Rice 
County,  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Cannon  and  Straight  Rivers,  and  on  the 
Minnemta  Central  Railway,  is  one  of  the 
most  populous  and  thriving  interior  towns 
in  the  State.  In  1853  it  was  the  site  of 
Alexander  Faribault's  trading-post.  Since 
1857  its  growth  has  been  rapid,  and 
the  present  population  is  estimated  at 
3,000.  The  State  Asylum  for  the  deaf 
and  dumb,  and  an  Episcopalian  College, 
are  located  here.  The  National  and  the 
Barron  Hoiifie  are  the  leading  hotels. 

lIastiE2g-s^  the  county  town  of  Da- 
cotah  County,  is  situated  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  Mississippi  River,  three  miles  above 
the  mouth  of  Lake  St.  Croix.  It  lies 
upon  a  bed  of  limestone,  which  furnishes 
abundant  building  matei^ial.  It  was  laid 
out  in  1853,  and  now  contains  a  popula- 

10 


tion  of  between  3,000  and  4,000.  It  is 
the  seat  of  the  Minnesota  (Jcntral  Uni- 
versity. The  Falls  of  the  Vermilion 
River,  south  of  the  town,  are  60  feet  high, 
and  well  wortliy  a  visit. 

J^lill^vsalea*. —  St.  Croix  Iloxisc. — 
Stillwater,  in  Washington  County,  upon 
the  west  bank  of  Lake  St.  Croix,  20  miles 
fi'om  St.  Paul,  was  flrst  settled  in  1843, 
and  is  rapidly  becoming  a  populous  and 
important  place.  Large  steamers  ply 
here.  This  is  the  point  from  which  to 
visit  the  Lake  and  Falls  of  tlie  St.  Croix. 

'Faylor's  Falls,  the  county  seat 
of  Chisago  County,  is  on  the  west  bank 
of  St.  Croix  River,  just  below  the  Falls  of 
St.  Croix.  A  bridge  connects  the  village 
with  the  Wisconsin  shore.  The  Cascade 
Ilonse  is  the  leading  hotel. 

I^alcc  City  is  pleasantly  situated 
on  the  west  .shore  of  Lake  Pepin,  of  which, 
and  the  villages  of  Pepin,  Stockholm,  and 
Maiden  Rock,  on  the  opposite  or  Wiscon- 
sin shore,  it  commands  a  fine  view.  It 
occupies  the  site  of  Fort  Per  rot,  the  first 
French  military  establishment  in  this  re- 
gion, erected  in  1689.  The  town  was 
surve^^ed  and  laid  out  in  May,  1856.  The 
Saga7'-Loaf  Peak  and  Maiden  Rock  or 
Loverh  Leap  should  be  visited.  The  lake 
affords  fine  fishing.  The  Ellsioorth  and 
Lyon  House  are  the  leading  hotels. 

12e«l  ^^"ifiag-,  the  county  town  of 
Goodhue  County,  is  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Mississippi,  just  below  the  mouth  of 
Cannon  River,  and  6  miles  north  of  Lake 
Pepin.  Large  amounts  of  grain  are 
shipped  here.  It  is  on  the  proposed  line 
of  the  St.  Paul  and  Pacific  Raihsay  to 
Winona.  It  is  the  seat  of  Hamlin  Uni- 
versity., and  contains  several  church  edi- 
fices and  hotels.     Popidation  2,600. 

"l¥^sttl>asl»a^n^,  the  county  scat  of 
AVabashaw  County,  is  on  the  southwest 
bank  of  the  Mississippi,  about  opposite 
the  mouth  of  the  Chippewa  River,  4  miles 
below  Lake  Pepin.  It  is  91  miles  by 
water  from  St,  Paul,  and  about  75  by 
land.  The  Couri-House  and  one  of  the 
churches  are  fine  edifices.  Population, 
2,500.     Hurd's  Hotel. 

C^^vatoaaiaa,  the  capital  of  Steele 
County,  is  situated  on  the  east  side  of 
Straight  River,  at  the  junction  of  the  Wi- 
nona and  St.  Peter  and  Minnesota  Central 
Railways,      It  is  15  miles  souih  of  Fari- 

217 


EOCUESTER.] 


MINNESOTA. 


[Winona. 


buult,  and  40   miles  west  of  Rochester, 
Population,  1,200.     Eureka  Iloiiae. 

SS,oc!tester,  the  capital  of  Olmsted 
County,  is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  Zumbro  River,  in  the  midst  of  a  rich 
a.frncultural  section,  on  the  line  of  the 
Winona  and  St.  Fetcr  Jiaihoco/,  40  miles 
west  of  the  former  town.  The  first  set- 
tlements were  made  in  1854,  near  Cascade 
Creek.  It  is  the  most  important  wheat 
shipping  station  on  the  line  of  road  west 
of  Winona,  and  one  of  the  most  flourish- 
ing interior  towns  in  the  State.  It  con- 
tains a  nev/  Court-Hoase^  five  church  edi- 
fices, two  newspaper  offices  {Republican 
and  Fost)^  and  two  good  hotels,  the  Amer- 
ican and  Stevens  Houses.  Population, 
4,50i). 

I2.c«i\v©osl  S^sslts_,  in  the  County 
of  Redwood,  79  miles  west  of  St,  Peter, 
will  eventually  attract  tourists.  The 
town  is  in  its  iufancv,  containing  about 
300  inhabitants.  The  fall  is  30  feet 
perpendicular,  over  a  solid  granite  ledge. 
The  prairies  in  this  neighborhood  are 
very  extensive,  and  herds  of  buffalo  are 
often  seen.  Hunting  parties  frequently 
meet  here  for  the  chase, 

Canuoia  Falls  are  in  Goodhue 
County,  The  village  is  situated  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Big  and  Little  Cannon 
Rivers,  It  was  laid  out  in  1856,  and 
has  a  fine  water-power. 
218 


Chisago  Lalce  and  Green  Lake  afford 
fine  fishing.  They  are  in  Chisago  County, 
38  miles  northeast  of  St.  Paul,  and  14 
from  Taylor's  Falls.  Chisago  Cilrj  is 
pleasantly  situated  between  the  two  lakes, 
and  contains  a  good  hotel.  The  neigh- 
borhood of  Coluiahns^  in  Onoka  County, 
aboimds  in  game,  and  the  lakes  with  fish. 

IVisaoiaa,  the  capital  of  Winona 
County,  and  one  of  the  most  flourishing 
cities  of  the  State,  is  pleasantly  situated 
on  a  beautiful  prairie,  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  Mississippi  River,  30  miles  north 
of  La  Crosse,  and  105  miles  by  land 
below  St.  Paul.  With  the  latter  cities  it 
has  daily  communication  by  the  Winona 
and  St.  Peter  and  Minnesota  Central  Rail- 
ways, via  Owatonna.  The  Winona  branch 
of  the  St.  Paul  and  Pacific  Railway  uill 
be  completed  to  this  point  in  1808.  The 
first  white  settlement  was  made  here  in 
1851,  and  was  laid  out  as  a  town  in  the 
following  year.  In  1857  it  was  chartered 
as  a  city.  It  is  the  largest  wheat  market 
in  the  State,  the  receipts  and  shipments 
for  1865  amounting  to  three  millions  of 
bushels.  It  contams  a  spacious  court- 
house and  twelve  church-edifices.  The 
State  Normal  Srhool  has  a  fine  build- 
ing. The  High  School  is  also  a  spacious 
edifice,  recently  erected.  Population  (esti- 
mated), 6,000.  Hffs  Hotel,  on  Third 
Street,  has  excellent  accommodation. 


Wisconsin.] 


WISCONSIN". 


[Wisconsin. 


wisconsi:n". 


Wisconsin  was  formed  into  a  Territory 
in  1836,  and  came  into  the  Union  as  late 
as  1848,  though  the  country  was  visited, 
as  was  all  the  wilderness  of  which  it  was 
then  a  part,  by  the  French  missionaries 
two  centuries  ago.  Its  growth  has  been, 
and  continues  to  be,  unexampled  any- 
where, excepting  in  the  surrounding  new 
States  and  Territories. 

It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Minne- 
sota, part  of  Michigan,  and  Lake  Supe- 
rior; on  the  east  by  Lake  Michigan  ;  on 
the  south  by  Illinois,  and  on  the  west  by 
Iowa  and  Minnesota.  It  is  285  miles 
long  and  250  broad,  and  embraces  an 
area  of  thirty-four  and  a  half  millions  of 
acres. 

The  topographical  aspect  of  Wisconsin 
is  very  similar  to  that  of  other  pordons 
of  the  Northwest  section  of  the  Union, 
presenting,  for  the  most  part,  grand 
stretches  of  elevated  prairie-land,  some- 
times 1,000  feet  higher  than  the  level  of  the 
sea.  Though  there  are  no  mountains  in  this 
State,  there  are  the  characteristic  plateau 
ridges  of  the  latitude,  formed  by  depres- 
sions, which  drain  the  waters,  and  afford 
beds  for  the  rivers  and  lakes.  The  de- 
scent of  the  land  toward  Lake  Superior 
is  very  sudden,  and  the  streams  are  full 
of  falls  and  rapids. 

The  waters  of  Lake  Superior  and  Lake 
Michigan  wash  the  northern  and  eastern 
boundaries  of  Wisconsin,  and  numberless 
lesser  waters  are  scattered  through  the 
interior,  and  more  abundantly  over  the 
northwestern  counties.  The  shores  of 
these  lakes  abound  in  rich  forest  growth 
and  in  rocky  precipice,  affording  numerous 
picturesque  views.  The  waters  are  clear, 
and  full  of  delicious  fish. 

Lake    Winnebago^  the  largest  of  the 


interior  waters  of  Wisconsin,  lies  south- 
east of  the  middle  of  the  State.  Its 
length  is  about  28  miles,  with  a  width  of 
10  miles.  The  Fox  or  Neenah  River 
unites  with  Green  Bay,  an  arm  of  Lake 
Michigan.  A  singular  rocky  wall  which 
might,  in  its  regular  formation,  easily  be 
supposed  the  work  of  art,  instead  of  na- 
ture, follows  the  eastern  shore  of  Win- 
nebago Lake  for  15  miles.  This  wall  rises 
through  all  its  extent  about  five  fet-t 
above  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  sinks 
in  places  hundreds  of  feet  below.  Steam- 
boats navigate  the  lake.     (See  Oshkosh.) 

The  Mississippi  Eivcr  forms  much  of 
the  western  boundary  of  Wisconsin, 
separating  it  from  Iowa  and  Minnesota, 
with  which  States  it  thus  shares  the 
charming  scenery  of  this  portion  of  the 
great  river — the  noble  expansion  of 
Lake  Pepin,  Avith  its  bold  precipices, 
and  headland  of  the  Maiden  Rock,  and 
the  La  Grange  Mountain  ;  Mount  Trem- 
peleau,  in  La  Crosse  County,  with  its  per- 
pendicular chffs,  500  feet  in  height,  and 
many  other  striking  scenes. 

The  Wisco7isin  Biver,  the  largest  stream 
in  the  State,  rises  in  a  small  lake  called 
Vieux  Desert,  on  the  northern  bound- 
ary, and  flows  southwesterly  600  miles 
to  the  Mississippi  at  Prairie  du  Chien. 
Shifting  sandbars  obstruct  the  navi- 
gation very  much,  yet  steamboats  as- 
cend as  high  as  Portage  City,  200  miles 
distant,  by  the  Avindings  of  the  river.  At 
Portage  City  a  ship-canal  conducts  small 
steamers  to  the  waters  of  the  Neenah 
or  Fox  River  (the  outlet  of  Lake  Winne- 
bago), by  which  the  navigation  is  con- 
tinued through  the  State,  from  the  Mis- 
sissippi to  Lake  Michigan. 

The  Wisconsin  River  presents  many 

219 


Wisconsin.] 


WISCONSLNT. 


[Railways. 


beautiful  picture?  to  the  eye  of  the  travel- 
ler. The  remarkable  passage  called  the 
Grandfather  Bull  Falls,  where  the  watqfs 
break  through  a  bold  gor^e  a  mile  and 
a  half  in  length,  and  flanked  on  either 
hand  with  rugged  walls  150  fee^  in  height, 
are  well  worth  visiting.  Some  tine 
chalybeate  springs  add  to  the  attractions 
of  this  charming  spot,  and  promise  to 
make  it  before  long  a  favorite  summer 
resort. 

Petemndl  Peak,  on  the  Wisconsin,  60 
miles  below  Grandfather  Bull  Falls,  is  a 
singular  oval  mass  of  rock,  900  feet  in 
length  and  300  wide,  with  an  elevation 
above  the  surrounding  country  of  200 
feet.  The  summit  for  TO  feet  is  perpen- 
dicular, and  the  rocks  in  their  fantastic 
groupings  assume  the  most  wonderful 
architectural  appearances,  almost  per- 
suading the  voyager  that  he  is  trans- 
ported back  to  feudal  ages,  and  is  pass- 
ing through  a  barbaric  land  of  castled 
and  battlemented  heights. 

Fortification  Rock  is  another  interest- 
ing scene,  a  few  miles  below  Petenwcll 
Peak.  The  cliffs  here  have  a  vertical 
elevation  of  100  feet.  At  the  Dalles  of 
the  Wisconsin  the  water  passes  for  about 
six  miles  between  hills  of  solid  rock, 
in  height  from  30  to  100  feet.  The  nar- 
rowest width  of  the  river  here  is  55  feet. 

The  St.  Louis  Jiiver,  which  forms  part 
of  the  boundary  between  IMinnesota  and 
Wisconsin,  is  the  original  source,  of  the 
St.  Lawrence,  and  is  remarkable  for  a 
series  of  bold  rapids,  called  the  Falls  of 
St.  Louis.  Of  this  scone  we  have  spoken 
in  our  mention  of  the  landscape  of  Min- 
nesota. The  Bad-axe,  Black,  Chippewa, 
the  JRock,  the  Bcs  Plaines,  the  Fox,  and 
other  rivers  of  Wisconsin,  are  much 
broken  by   cataracts    and   rapids. 

The  antiquary,  no  less  than  the  lover 
of  natural  beauty,  may  find  in  this 
State  sources  of  pleasure,  in  objects 
scarcely  less  strange  than  the  mystical 
relics  of  the  Old  World.  Scattered  every- 
where over  the  plains  of  Wisconsin,  are 
smgular  structures  of  earth,  known  gen- 
erally as  "Mounds."  At  Prairieville, 
there  is  one  of  those  weird  works,  5G  feet 
in  length,  which  is  in  the  similitude  of  a 
turtle ;  near  the  Blue  Mounds  is  another, 
120  feet  in  length,  representing  a  man 
iu  a  recumbent  attitude;  near  Cassville 
220 


yet  another  of  these  eccentric  labors  has 
been  found,  made  in  the  image  of  the  ex- 
tinct mastodon.  At  Aztalan,  in  Jefferson 
County,  there  is  an  old  fortification  550 
yards  in  length,  and  275  wide.  The  walls 
are  from  4  to  5  feet  high,  and  more  than 
20  feet  thick. 

The  Blue  Mounds  are  in  Dane  county. 
The  most  elevated  rises  nearly  1,200  feet 
above  the  waters  of  the  Wisconsin  River. 

The  forest  scenery,  and  the  ever-wel- 
come oak  openings — the  oases  of  the 
prairie — will  be  among  the  gratifications 
of  the  nature-loving  tourist  in  Wisconsin. 
The  hunter  may  indulge  his  passion  for 
the  chase  at  vrill,  whether  he  aspire  to 
the  wild  game  of  the  wilderness,  or  to  the 
gentler  sports  by  the  brook-side. 

The  State  is  divided  into  68  coimties, 
and  contained  a  population  in  1860  of 
7*75,881,  of  whom  1,171  v/ere  colored,  and 
1,014  Indians.  The  entire  population  of 
the  State  is  now  estimated  at  one  million. 

Madison  is  the  capital,  and  Milwaukee 
the  chief  commercial  city.  Racine,  Janes- 
ville,  Oshkosh,  Watertown,  Beloit,  Fond 
du  Lac,  Kenosha,  and  La  Crosse  are 
thriving  cities.  Manitowoc,  Portage  City, 
and  Green  Bay  are  also  rapidly  becoming 
important  places. 

Railavays.  —  The  principal  railway 
lines  in  Wisconsin  extend  from  Milwau- 
kee westward  across  the  State  to  the 
Mississippi.  The  following  list  embraces 
all  the  lines  now  operated  within  the 
State,  viz. : 

The  Mihoaiikce  and  Prairie  dn  Chien 
Pailwai/  from  Milwaukee  to  Milton  (64 
miles) ;  Chicago  and  Northwestern  crossing 
and  branch  v'a  Janesville (72  miles),  and 
Monroe  (106  miles);  Madison (96  niik\0  ; 
Prairie  du  Chien  (194  miles).  The  Mil- 
wankce  and  St.  Paul  Railway  from  j\Iil- 
waukee,  t'/a  Watertown  (43  miles);  Por- 
tage City  (91  miles);  to  La  Crosse  (195 
miles) ;  Madison  Branch  (in  progress)  from 
Watertown  Junction  (44  miles)  to  Sun 
Prairie  (71  miles) :  Jloricon  Division,  via 
Iloricon  Junction  (52  miles) ;  to  Berlin  (94 
miles) ;  and  Winncconna  (103  miles).  Chi- 
cago and  Milwaukee  Railway, {loxn  Milwau- 
kee via  Racine  (23  miles) ;  Kenosha  (33 
miles) ;  to  State  line  (30  miles) ;  and 
Chicago  (85  miles).  Western  Union  Rail- 
2('ay  from  Racine  via  Elkhorn  (40  miles) ; 
to  Beloit  (69  miles).     Chicago  and  North- 


Milwaukee.] 


WISCONSK^. 


[Milwaukee, 


western  Railway  from  Chicago  via  Crystal 
Lake  (43  miles) ;  Harvard  (G3  miles) ; 
Janesville  (91  miles);  Watertcvn  (130 
miles);  Fond  du  Lac  {1*11  miles);  Osb- 
kosh  (194  miles);  to  Fort  Howard  (242 
miles) ;  comiecting  at  Fort  Howard  witl) 
steimers  on  Grceu  Bay  for  Escanaba, 
whence  the  Peninsular  division  of  the 
C.  &  N.  W.  R.  R.  connects  with  Mar- 
quette (75  miles).  Kenosha  and  Rock- 
ford  Division  from  Kenosha  to  Harvard 
(45  miles) ;  Avhere  it  connects  with  the 
main  line.  JBcloit  and  Madison  Branchy 
fi'om  Flarvard,  via  Beloit  (27  miles),  to 
Madison  (75  miles).  Milwaukee  and 
3Ihmesota  Railway/,  from  Milwaukee,  via 
Horicon  Junction  (52  miles) ;  to  Portage 
City  (96  miles). 

MILWAUKEE. 

Hotels  :  The  Newhall  House  is  desir- 
ably located  and  handsomely  furnished. 
The  table  fare  is  inferior.  The  Walker 
House  (recently  enlarged)  and  the  Juneau 
House  are  on  East  Water  Street,  conve- 
nient to  the  business  portion  of  the  city. 

llouTE. — From  Chicago  (85  miles),  via 
Chicago  and  Milwaukee  Railway.  From 
Detroit,  by  Detroit  and  Milwaukee  RaV- 
way  to  Grand  Haven  (189  miles),  and 
thence  85  miles  by  steamer  across  Lake 
Michigan. 

Milwaukee,  the  commercial  capital  of 
"'tYisconsin,  and,  next  to  Chicago,  the  lar- 
gest city  in  the  Northwest,  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  west  shore  of  Lake  Michi- 
gan, at  the  mouth  of  the  Milwaukee  River. 
This  river  flows  through  the  town,  and, 
with  the  Menomonee,  with  which  it  forms 
a  junction,  divides  it  into  three  nearly 
equal  districts,  which  are  severally  knovvn 
as  the  East,  AVest,  and  South  divisions. 
The  tov>'n  lies  upon  the  river  flats,  and 
upon  the  bluffs  which  overlook  the- lake. 
The  Milwaukee  River  is  navigable  for  the 
lai'gest  class  of  lake  vessels  for  2  miles 
from  its  mouth,  and  forms  one  of  the  best 
harbors  on  the  entire  northwestern  lake 
coast.  Nearly  half  a  million  dollars  have 
been  expended  in  its  protection  and  im- 
provement. The  peculiar  color  of  the 
''Milwaukee  brick,"  of  which  many  of 
the  buildings  are  made,  gives  the  city  a 
very  unique  and  pretty  air.  These  fa- 
mous bricks,  ■which  are  much  in  fashion 


now  all  over  the  country,  have  a  delicate 
cream  or  straw  tint.  Four  steam  brick- 
mills  are  in  constant  opei'ation.  Hi 
growth,  this  city  of  promise  has  kept 
pace  Avith  the  rapid  progress  characteris- 
tic of  the  region.  It  was  settled  in  1835, 
incorporated  in  1846,  hail  a  population  in 
1840,  of  1,751  ;  in  1850,  of  20,061  ;  in 
1860,  more  than  45,000.  Its  present 
population  is  65,000.  There  are  54 
church  edifices  of  various  denominations 
here,  and  numerous  excellent  literarv  in- 
stitutions  and  schools.  The  most  promi- 
nent church  edifice  is  the  Catholic  Cathe- 
dral of  St.  John.  The  new  Baptist 
church  is  also  a  handsome  structure,  just 
completed,  at  a  cost  of  $35,000.  The 
city,  which  embraces  an  area  of  17  miles' 
square,  is  divided  into  9  wards,  and  con- 
tains 130  streets,  and  upward  of  12,000 
dwellings,  1,200  of  which  have  been  erect- 
ed since  1865.  East  Water  and  Spring 
Streets  are  very  wide,  handsome  thor- 
oughfares, and  the  beautiful  cream  color 
and  finish  of  the  bricks  with  which  they 
are  largely  constructed  give  to  them,  and 
indeed  to  the  whole  city,  a  peculiarly 
chaste  and  attractive  appearance.  In- 
deed, the  quality  and  color  of  the  building 
material  is  quite  characteristic  of  the  lo- 
cahty,  and  has  earned  for  it  a  preeminence 
as  the  "  Cream  City"  of  the  lakes.  The 
city  is  well  lighted  and  paved. 

Among  the  prominent  public  buildings 
are  the  United  States  Custom-House,  which 
also  embraces  the  Post-Oflfice  and  United 
States  courts.  It  is  of  Athens  stone  and 
stands  on  the  corner  of  Wisconsin  and 
Milwaukee  Streets.  An  appropriation  of 
$120,000  is  expected  to  be  made  for  the 
purpose  of  a  Court-House.  There  are  eight 
banking  houses,  two  of  which  are  hand 
some  edifices.  The  Music  Hall  is  a  hand- 
some apartment,  with  sittings  for  2,300 
persons.  It  was  erected  in  1864,  at  a  cost 
of  $65,000,  and  is  still  owned  by  the  Ger- 
man Musical  Society.  The  Germans  con- 
stitute nearly  one-half  of  the  entire  popu- 
lation, and  their  infiuence  upon  the  social 
life  of  the  inhabitants  is  everywhere  seen. 
Breweries  and  lager-bier  saloons,  gardens, 
,  gasthausen,  music  halls,  and  restaurants 
abound.  Two  distilleries  and  two  brew- 
eries, costing  in  the  aggregate  $130,000, 
have  recently  been  erected.  The  con- 
sumption of  lager,  for  which  Milwaukeo 

221 


Madison.] 


WISCONSIN. 


[Kenosha. 


is  now  so  famous  throughout  the  whole 
West,  is  estimated  at  upward  of  1,000,- 
000  gallons  aimually.  Twenty-five  firms 
are  en!:;a2:ed  in  its  manufacture,  and  the 
aggregate  annual  product  is  2,000,000 
gallons. 

The  theatre  building  known  as  the 
Academy  of  2 hide  has  800  sittings.  Be- 
sides these  places  of  public  resort,  the 
city  contains  15  halls  and  public  assem- 
bly-rooms. 

The  Milwaukee  River  has  been  dammed, 
and  affords  fine  manufacturing  facihties. 
Among  the  more  prominent  industrial  es- 
tablishments are  the  flouring-mills,  four 
of  which  have  been  erected  during  the 
past  year.  That  just  built  by  Betschey 
and  Kern,  at  a  cost  of  $150,000,  has  a  ca- 
pacity for  making  1,000  barrels  of  flour 
daily,  and  is  well  worth  visicinjr,  as  is 
also  the  grain  elevator  of  the  Milwaukee 
and  St.  Paul  Railwai/.  This  immense 
structure  has  a  storage  capacity  of  one  mil- 
lion and  a  half  bushels  of  wheat,  and  is 
one  of  the  largest  on  the  continent.  Up- 
Avard  of  13,250,000  bushels  of  wheat, 
largely  the  product  of  the  State,  were  ex- 
ported either  in  bulk  or  in  flour  in  1865. 
The  total  storage  capacity  of  the  grain  ele- 
vators is  estimated  at  five  millions  of  bush- 
els. One  of  the  largest  rolling-mills  in  the 
West,  that  constructed  by  E.  B.  Ward,  is 
located  here.  It  is  just  completed,  at  a 
cost  of  $300,000,  and  is  well  worthy  a 
visit  from  the  stranger  who  has  tlie  neces- 
sary time  at  his  disposal.  Milu^aukee, 
during  late  years,  has  become  a  great 
railroad  centre,  being  second  only  to  Chi- 
cago in  that  respect  among  the  cities  of 
the  Northwest.  The  following  embraces 
the  most  usually  travelled  routes :  Mil- 
witukee  and  Minnesota,  foot  of  Chestnut ; 
Chicago  and  Northv:estern,  foot  of  Bar- 
clay; Detroit  and  Mil.,  Mil.  and  Prairie 
dn  Chien,  foot  of  Third  Street ;  Mil.  and 
JSt.  Paul,  Union  Depot.  Steamers  ply 
daily  on  Lake  Michigan  to  ChicagcT  and 
Green  Bay  during  the  season  of  naviga- 
tion. 

M  u  d.  i  s  o  ift  . — IIoTEL,  the  Capitol 
House. 

IIoute:  See  Chicago  and  Milwaukee 
for  route  from  New  York,  Boston,  etc. 
Thence  by  rail. 

Madison,  the  capital  of  the  State,  and 
the  county  seat  of  Dane  County,  is  one 
222 


of  the  most  beautiful  and  attractive  towns 
in  the  Northwest.  It  is  situated  in  the 
centre  of  a  broad  valley,  enclosed  by  high 
grounds,  occupying  an  isthmus  between 
the  Third  and  Fourth  (Mendota)  Lake. 
Meudota  or  Fourth  Lake  upon  the  upper 
side  of  the  city,  is  about  six  miles  by  four 
miles  in  area.  The  Third  Lake  is  some- 
v.diat  smaller ;  both  are  exceedingly  pictur- 
esque waters,  deep  enough  for  steamboat 
navigation.  The  city  lies  in  the  very 
heart  of  the  "  Four  Lake  Country,"  which 
may  be  regarded  as  the  Westmoreland  of 
the  New  World.  The  lakes  are  severally 
known  as  Mendota,  Menona,  Wauhes^a^ 
Yahara,  and  Peshugo.  Except  a  log 
cabin,  there  was  not  a  single  structure 
upon  the  site  of  Madison,  when  it  was  se- 
lected in  1836  for  the  capital  of  the  State ; 
yet  in  1860  the  population  had  reached 
nearly  7,000.  The  streets  of  this  beauti- 
ful city  drop  down  pleasantly  toward  the 
shores  of  the  surrounding  lakes.  Madi- 
son perhaps  combines  and  overlooks  more 
charming  and  diversified  scenery  than  any 
other  town  in  the  West,  or  than  any  other 
State  capital  in  the  Union.  Its  high 
lakes,  fresh  groves,  ripphng  rivulets, 
shady  dales,  and  flowery  meadow  lawns, 
are  commingled  in  greater  profusion,  and 
disposed  in  more  picturesque  order,  than 
we  have  ever  elsewhere  beheld.  The 
Capitol  cost  $150,000  to  build.  It  is  a 
limestone  edifice,  situated  in  the  centre 
of  a  public  park  of  14  acres,  VO  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  lakes.  This  site, 
being  the  highest  land  between  Lakes 
Mendota  and  Menona,  commands  some 
fine  views.  The  U7iiversify  of  Wisconsin, 
founded  in  1849,  occupies  an  eminence 
(College  Hill)  a  mile  west  of  the  capitol, 
and  125  feet  above  the  lakes.  The  State 
Historical  Society  and  the  State  Lunatic 
Asylum  are  located  here.  The  Court- 
House  and  Jail  occupy  the  southern  cor- 
ner of  the  public  square. 

IJLeiiO!i»Iia. — Hotel,  City  Hotel. — 
Kenosha  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a  bluff 
which  rises  on  the  western  shore  of  Lake 
Michigan,  8  miles  below  Racine.  It  has 
r.dlway  communication  north,  south,  and 
west  by  the  Chicac/o  and  Mihvankee  and 
the  Kenosha  and  Roclcford  Railways.  It 
is  52  miles  al)0ve  Chicago  (by  railroad  or 
by  water),  and  33  miles  below  Milwaukee. 
The  town  was  laid  out  in  1836,  and  being 


Janesville.] 


WISCONSIN. 


[Appleton. 


the  most  southerly  port  in  the  State,  was 
long  known  as  Southport.  Population, 
5,000. 

cJ"siEaesvllIe.  —  IIotkl,  the  Ili/cdt 
House. — Jariesviile,  the  capital  of  Rock 
County,  and  one  of  the  most  attractive 
and  fioiui.-jjiing  towns  in  the  State,  is  de- 
lightfully located  upon  Rock  River,  45 
miles  southeast  of  Madison.  A  branch 
of  the  railway  between  Milwaukee  and 
Madison,  extends  to  Janesville ;  junction, 
at  Milton.  It  is  reached  from  Chicago, 
91  miles,  by  th.e  Norihweste^ni  Railway^ 
and  from  Milwaukee,  YO  miles,  by  the  Mil- 
waukee and  Prairie  du  Ckien  Railway., 
via  Milton  junction.  The  Court-House 
and  other  public  buildings  are  fine  struc- 
tures. It  was  settk;d  in  1886,  and  incor- 
porated 1853.  The  vicinity  has  pleasant 
■nalks  and  drives.  Population,  8,500. 
The  manufacture  of  paper  is  extensively 
prosecuted  here. 

B'^'oiail  «l^a  lL«ac — -Hotel,  the  Lcwcs 
House — at  the  south  end  or  head  of  Win- 
nebago Lake  and  on  the  Chicago  and 
Northwestern  Raihvay,  I'l'l  miles  north 
of  Chicago  and  65  miles  south  of  Fort 
Howard — is  a  place  much  resorted  to  by 
travellers  in  the  Northwest.  It  is  on  the 
direct  route  to  Green  Bay  and  the  cop- 
per region  of  Lake  Superior.  (See  the 
Lake  Region.)  Fond  du  Lac  is  remark- 
able, among  other  things,  for  its  Artesian 
wells,  which  are  so  numerous  that  nearly 
every  household  has  its  own.  They  vary 
in  depth  from  90  to  130  feet.  The  lum- 
ber business  is  extensively  cari'ied  on. 
Population,  1 0,700.  Communication  be- 
tween Winnebago  Lake  and  Green  Bay  is 
carried  on  by  steamboats  on  Fox  River. 
(See  Lake  Winnebago.) 

Ncesiiala,  at  the  foot  of  the  lake  on 
the  west  bank,  is  a  pretty  little  village, 
with  a  population  of  between  2,000  and 
3,000,  and  good  hotel  accomodations  for 
visitors. 

]^2eiasiislaa  is  a  small  town  on  Lake 
Butte  des  3Ioris,  35  miles  from  Green 
Bay. 

Oslaliosia,  17  miles  north  of  Fond 
du  Lac,  and  194  miles  north  of  Chicago  by 
the  Nortliwcstcru  road,  lies  pleasantly  on 
the  west  side  of  Lake  Winnebago,  near 
the  mouth  of  Fox  River.  It  is  a  very 
flourishing  town,  already  numbering  over 
9,000  inhabitants,  and  is  much  resorted 


to  during  the  summer  months.  Imme- 
diately above  the  town  the  Fox  l^iver 
widens  out  into  the  Lake  Butte  dcsMorts. 
Oshkosh  is  the  entrance  to  the  great 
pine  region  of  Wisconsin.  A  visit  to 
the  sav/-mills  will  repay  the  traveller. 
More  than  50,000,000  feet  of  lumber  are 
manufactured  annually.  Wolf  River,  the 
main  channel  of  communication  with  the 
pine  region,  is  navigable  for  steamboats 
a  distance  of  100  miles.  (See  Lake  V/in- 
nebago.) 

Ai]>plet©Bi  is  pleasantly  situated  on 
an  eminence  overlooking  the  Fox  River, 
30  miles  from  its  mouth,  5  miles  from 
Lake  Winnebago,  and  214  from  Chica- 
go by  the  Northi'esteru  Railway  ;  from 
Milwaukeel  'ZV  miles,  via  Milton  Junction. 
The  rapids,  known  as  the  Grand  Clute^ 
have  a  descent  of  about  30  feet  in  a  dis- 
tance of  one  mile  and  a  half.  It  is  the  seat 
of  Lawrence  University.  The  scenery  in 
the  vicinity  is  attractive.  The  approach 
to  Appleton  from  Green  Bay  presents 
some  of  the  most  picturesque  scenes  to 
be  found  in  this  region. 

Litde  Clade^  Kaukaiina.i  Wrightsfoivn^ 
and  De  Pere,  are  small  places  having 
stations  on  the  Northwestern  road,  be- 
tween Appleton  and  Fort  Howard,  the 
terminus  of  the  Wisconsin  division  of 
the  Northwestcrii  Railway. 

Cji'eesa  ISssy  City,  opposite  Fort 
Howard,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a 
free  drawbridge,  is  a  place  of  some  in- 
terest to  Lake  Superior  and  Green  Bay 
tourists.  The  steamers  on  Lake  Michi- 
gan and  the  bay  all  stop  here.  The 
descent  in  the  Fox  River  affords  fine 
manufacturing  facilities,  which  haA^e  been 
considerably  employed.  (See  Green  Bay.) 
The  trip  northward  up  the  lake  is  a  fa- 
vorite one  with  those  who  have  taken  it 
during  the  summer  months.  The  steamer 
runs  daily  during  the  season  of  naviga- 
tion, on  the  arrival  of  the  cars  from 
Chicago,  for  Escanaba,  Marquette,  and 
ports  on  Lake  Superior.  The  trip  be- 
tween Fort  Howard  and  Marquette  occu- 
pies 15  hours,  12  of  which  are  passed  in 
making  the  voyage  on  Green  Bay. 

ISeloit, — P>eloit  is  upon  the  south- 
ern boundary  of  the  State,  on  the  Beloit 
and  Madison  Branch  oi.  ih.e  Northivcstcrn 
Raihvay,  90  miles  from  Chicago  and  48 
miles  from  Madison.     From  Milwaukee, 

223 


Watertown.] 


WISCOXSIN. 


[Green  Cay. 


by  railway,  it  is  distant  78  miles.  Beloit 
is'  built  on  a  beautiful  plain,  ou  the  banks 
of  the  picturesque  llock  River.  It  was 
incorporated  in  1856,  and  is  famous  for 
its  elegant  churches  and  fine  streets. 
Beloit  College,  founded  in  1846,  is  a 
flourisliing  institution. 

l)V«tei*to^VBi,  on  Rock  River,  at 
the  intersection  of  tlie  CMcetgo  and  Nortli- 
ice.siern  acd  the  Milwaukee  and  St.  Paul 
Jiailwavs,  43  miles  from  Milwaukee  and 
130  from  Chicago,  has  grown  to  be  a 
place  of  considerable  importance  in  the 
last  few  years.  It  was  settled  in  1836, 
and  now  contains  upv/ard  of  7,000  in- 
habitants. The  rapids  in  the  Rock  Riv- 
er above  the  town  should  be  visited. 
The  fliU  of  24  feet  furnishes  an  abundant 
Tvater-power. 

Fort  AtTiliRSOEi,  on  the  JVorih- 
wedern  road,  19  miles  north  of  "Water- 
town,  is  an  eld  military  post  and  settle- 
ment on  Rock  River. 

'^Vaiilcessaa,  once  called  Prairie- 
rille,  is  upon  the  Jfilwccu/cee  and  Prairie 
da  Clden  RaUicay,  25  miles  from  Jlilwau- 
kee  and  71  from  Madison.  It  is  situated 
upon  Pishtuha  or  Fox  River,  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  a  fine  prairie.  It  is  the  seat 
of  Carroll  College,  founded  1846.  Pop- 
ulation, 3,000. 

\¥ltite  I'Tator^  30  miles  from 
Waukesha  and  51  from  Milwaukee,  by 
the  Prairie  du  Chicn  line,  is  a  thriving 
town,  laid  out  in  1840.  It  has  an  ex- 
tensive paper-mill  and  other  manufixctur- 
ing  establishments.  Population,  3,000, 
and  increasing  rapidly. 

I*rJJii*ic  *iu  Ciiien^  the  terminus 
of  the  3Iihoaukee  and  Prairie  du  Chicn 
Pailicag,  is  situated  on  the  Mississippi 
River,  194  miles  west  of  Milwaukee,  229 
miles  northwest  of  Chicago,  and  4  miles 
north  of  the  Wisconsin  River.  It  is  con- 
nected witli  the  young  town  of  McGregor, 
Iowa,  by  ferry. 

I.®oi*t:?s<i  City  is  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  the  Wisconsin  River.  It  is 
\\])()n  the  route  of  the  La  Crosse  Railwag, 
91  miles  from  Milwaukee.  The  site  of  Por- 
tage ('ity  was  formerly  known  as  Winne- 
bago Portage,  w\\([  still  earlier  as  Old  Fort 
Winnebago.  The  Fox  River  Canal,  which 
unites  the  waters  of  the  Wisconsin  River 
with  Lake  Michigan,  passes  near  the  town. 


Lumber  constitutes  the  staple  article  of 
commerce. 

^laclioyg'aii  is  at  the  entrance  of 
Sheboygan  River  into  Lake  Michigan,  62 
miles  north  of  Milvraukee.  Steamboats 
up  and  down  the  lake  call  here. 

Mcmitowoc  is  also  upon  Lake  Michigan, 
30  miles  above  Sheboygan,  and  93  miles 
north  of  Milwaukee. 

SSsiciB&e. — Hotel,  Congress  Rail. 

Racine  is  a  beautiful  city,  situated  on 
the  west  shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  at  the 
mouth  of  Root  River,  23  miles  south  by 
east  of  Milwaukee,  and  62  north  of  Chi- 
cago. It  is  the  second  city  of  the  State 
in  population  and  commerce,  and  has  one 
of  the  best  harbors  on  the  lake,  formed 
by  the  mouth  of  the  river,  which  admits 
vessels  drawing  over  12  feet  of  water.  It 
was  settled  in  1835  and  incorporated  in 
1848.  The  Racine  and  Mi.mssippi  Rail- 
wag  connects  the  city  with  the  Mississip- 
pi River  at  Savanna,  111.  Population, 
11,000.  The  public  schools  are  among 
the  best  in  the  State.  Over  880,000- have 
been  expended  by  the  citizens  in  the  con- 
struction of  a  harbor,  |;30,000  for  school 
buildings,  and  $350,000  for  railways. 

Plaiteville  and  Mineral  Point  are  grow- 
ing places  in  the  heart  of  the  lead  region 
of  Southwestern  Wisconsin  and  North- 
western Illinois.  The  former  is  in  Grant, 
the  latter  in  Ipwa  County.  (For  routes, 
see  Galena.)  A  branch  of  the  Illinois 
Central  from  Warren  leads  to  Mineral 
Point. 

liJrecEi  !E5:iy, — On  leaving  the  City 
of  Green  Bay  in  one  of  the  steamers  of 
the  Crccn  Bay  Transit  Compaiiy  for 
Escanaba,  100  miles,  the  tourist  passes 
through  one  of  the  most  beautiful  sheets 
of  water,  connecting  with  Lake  Michigan 
on  the  north. 

The  harbor  of  Green  Bay  is  formed  by 
the  Fox  or  Neenah  River,  which  here  en- 
ters from  the  south,  the  outward  channel 
being  crooked  and  circuitous  until  the 
light-house,  7  miles  distant,  is  passed, 
when  the  bay  widens,  and  a  large  expanse 
of  water  is  presented  to  view, 

Oconto,  30  miles  north  of  Green  Bay, 
having  daily  communication  bv  steam- 
boat,  is  a  fiourishing  lumbering  village 
lying  on  the  west  side  of  the  bay,  near 
the  mouth  of  a  river  of  the  same  name. 


224 


Cedar  Riter.] 


WISCONSIN. 


[ESCANABA. 


Liitle  Sturgeon  Point  (40  miles)  lies  on 
the  east  shore  of  the  bay. 

Sturgeon  Bay  is  a  deep  indentation, 
running  nearly  across  the  neck  of  land 
which  separates  Green  Bay  from  Lake 
Michigan  ;  it  is  proposed  to  construct  a 
ship  canal  to  connect  them. 

Menomonee  (58  miles)  lies  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river  of  the  same  name,  which 
forms  thedividins;  hue  between  the  States 
of  Wisconsin  and  Michigan.  This  is  a 
large  and  flourishing  lumbering  village, 
whence  are  annually  shipped  large  quan- 
tities of  lumber  to  Chicago  and  Eastern 
markets. 

Green  Island  (60  miles),  nearly  mid- 
way between  the  termini  of  the  boat 
route,  lies  in  the  middle  of  the  bay,  where 
is  a  light-house  to  guide  the  mariner. 

Hat  Island  alid  Strawberry  Island  are 
small  tracts  of  land  passed  on  the  east, 
near  the  main  shore. 

Chamhers's  Island  CZS  miles)  is  a  large 
and  fertile  body  of  land,  lying  near  the 
middle  of  the  bay,  which  is  here  about  20 
miles  wide. 

Porte  des  Morts  {Dcatli's  Poor)  is  the 
entrance  into  Lake  Michigan,  separating 
the  mainland  from  Washington  Island, 
on  the  north,  which  is  attached  to  the 
State  of  Michigan.  To  the  east  lie  the 
broad  waters  of  Lake  Michigan. 

Cedar  River  (90  miles)  enters  from 
the  west,  where  is  a  lumbering  establish- 
ment, tlie  whole  west  shore  of  Green  Bay 
producing  a  heavy  growth  of  pine  and 
other  kinds  of  timber. 

Leaving  Cedar  River  the  steamer's 
course  lies  for  Liitle  Bay  de  Noqvet^  30 
miles  distant,  affording  a  view  of  the 
waters  of  Lake  Michigan  on  the  east, 
while  to  the  north  lies  Great  Bay  de 
Noquet,  about  10  miles  wide  and  20  miles 
in  length. 

Pen&auTcee^  PesJitigo,  and  other  towns 
are  springing  up  on  the  west  shore  of 


Green  Bay,  where  are  to  be  found  numer- 
ous large  lumber  establishments,  situ- 
ated on  the  streams  running  into  the 
bay. 

Escanaha  is  a  new  and  promising  town 
in  Michigan,  situated  on  the  western 
shore  of  Little  Bay  de  Noc,  120  miles 
north  of  the  city  of  Green  Bay,  and  is  the 
southern  terminus  of  the  Peninsular  Rail- 
road of  Michigan.  This  place,  laid  out 
in  the  spring  of  1864,  has  a  good  and  se- 
cure harbor,  of  easy  access,  with  a  suf- 
ficient depth  of  water  for  the  largest  class 
of  vessels  navigating  the  lakes.  The 
docks  erected  by  the  railroad  company 
are  of  a  substantial  and  commodious  char- 
acter, intended  for  the  transshipment  of 
iron  and  copper  ore  from  the  Lake  Supe- 
rior mines,  distant  about  65  miles. 

The  site  of  the  town  lies  on  Sand  Point, 
where  is  a  favorable  view  of  the  waters 
of  Green  Bay  lying  to  the  south,  and 
Little  Bay  de  Noc  on  the  north.  The 
streets  are  laid  out  at  right  angles,  with 
ample  pubhc  grounds  adjoining  the  water- 
front. The  future  of  this  place  is  hard  to 
predict,  its  growth  being  identified  with 
the  rich  mineral  deposits  of  the  Upper 
Peninsula  of  Michigan,  bordering  on  Lake 
Superior.     Good  hotel  accommodation. 

The  Peninsular  Railroad  runs  from  the 
wharf  at  Escanaba,  through  a  new  and 
v.'ild  section  of  country  to  Negaunee,  62 
miles,  tliere  intersecting  the  Bay  de  No- 
quet  and  Marquette  Railroad,  13  miles 
above  Marquette,  forming  a  through  line 
of  travel. 

The  Bay  de  Noquet  and  Marquette  and 
the  Marquette  and  Ontonagon  Railroads 
form  a  connection  at  the  iron  mines,  and 
now  extend  to  Lake  Michigommi,  40  miles 
from  Marquette.  This  important  road  is 
rapidly  extending  to  Ontonagon,  120  miles, 
also,  to  Portage  Lake,  thus  connecting 
the  iron  and  copper  regions  of  Lake  Su- 
perior. 

225 


Michigan.] 


MICHIGAN. 


[MiaaiGAN. 


M  I  C  II I  a  A  1^  . 


Michigan,  one  of  the  more  recently 
settled  of  tlie  great  States  of  the  North- 
west, embraces  two  peninsulas,  the  lower 
or  southern  Ij'ing  between  Like  Michigan 
on  the  west  and  Lakes  Huron,  St.  Clair, 
and  Erie  on  the  east ;  and  the  northern, 
between  Lake  Superior  on  the  north,  and 
Lakes  Michigan  and  Huron  on  the  south. 
The  northern  peninsula  is  about  320  miles 
long  and  130  in  its  greatest  breadth, 
and  the  southern  238  miles  from  north  to 
south  and  200  from  east  to  west.  United- 
ly they  embrace  thirty-five  and  a  half 
millions  of  acres,  of  v/hich  less  than  four 
millions  are  improved.  The  unique  char- 
acter of  the  scenery  of  the  upper  penin- 
sula of  Michigan,  and  the  present  easy 
means  of  access,  promise  in  the  course  of 
a  few  years  to  m:i!ve  this  region  one  of 
the  most  popular  summer  resorts  in  the 
Union.  Excepting  in  portions  of  its 
southern  boundary,  this  State  is  every- 
where surrounded  by  the  waters  of  the 
Great  Lakes,  insomuch  that  it  has  a  coast 
of  nearly  1,100  miles.  Of  this  immense 
lake-coast,  350  miles  belong  to  Lake  Su- 
perior, as  much  more  to  Lake  Michigan, 
300  to  L'ike  Huron,  40  to  Lake  Erie,  and 
SO  to  St.  Clair.  Besides  these  grand 
waters  which  encompass  the  State  about 
like  a  girdle,  there  are  many  beautifid 
ponds  scattered  over  the  interior,  and 
bearing  thither  the  picturesque  beauty  of 
the  shores.  The  southern  peninsula  is 
more  interesting  in  an  agricultural  than 
in  a  pictorial  point  of  view.  It  is  in  sur- 
face notaljly  unvaried — a  vast  plain,  un- 
dulating indecil,  but  not  broken  by  any 
elevations  worthy  of  mention.  It  has, 
however,  peculiar  features  Avhich  will  in- 


terest the  traveller,  in  its 


great 


pranie 


lands  and  that  special  characteristic  of 
226 


the  Western  landscape — the  Oak  Open- 
ings— a  species  of  natural  park  meagrely 
covered  with  trees.  Tlie  shores,  however, 
even  of  this  part  of  Michigan,  are  ofien 
picturesquely  varied,  with  steep  banks 
and  blufts,  and  shifting  sand-hills,  reach- 
ing, sometimes,  a  height  of  200  feet  or 
more.  The  romantic  portion  of  the  "  Lake 
State  "  is  in  the  upper  peninsula,  which 
is  rich  in  all  the  features  of  rugired 
rocky  coast,  of  the  most  fantastic  and 
striking  character,  in  beautiful  streams, 
rapids,  and  cascades.  Here,  making  a 
part  of  the  scenery  of  Lake  Superior  (see 
the  Lake  IIegion),  are  the  Wisconsin,  or 
Porcupine  Mountains,  2,000  feet  in  height, 
and  those  strange  huge  castellated  masses 
of  sandstone,  celebrated  as  the  Pictured 
Rocks.  The  famous  straits  of  Mackinaw 
unite  the  converging  floods  of  Lakes 
Huron  and  Michigan  at  the  extreme  north- 
ern apex  of  the  lower  peninsula,  and  the 
beautiful  Sault  de  St.  Marie  conducts  the 
wondering  tourist  from  Lake  Huron  to 
Lake  Superior  on  the  north.  The  St. 
Mary  separates  the  upper  peninsula  at  its 
northeastei'n  extremity  from  Canada.  The 
Pictured  Rocks  are  about  60  miles  west 
of  this  passage.  Here  white-lish  and 
other  finny  game  are  caught  in  great 
quantities.  The  rivers  of  Michigan  are 
chisfiy  small  streams,  but  many  of  them, 
especially  those  in  the  mountain  districts 
of  the  north,  are  replete  with  pleasant 
subjects  for  the  pencil  of  the  artist. 

The  history  of  this  State  has  more 
points  of  interest  than  we  are  apt  to  find 
in  this  section  of  the  Union,  recording  as 
it  does  some  memorable  incidents  of  In- 
dian adventure,  and  important  exploits  in 
the  American  and  English  War  of  1812. 
The  first  settlements  were  made  at  De- 


Railways.] 


MICniGAN. 


[Detroit. 


troifc  and  Mackinaw,  toward  the  close  of 
the  seventeenth  ccntur3^  After  England 
had  dispossessed  the  French,  there  arose 
among  the  Indian  tribes  the  famous  chief- 
tain Pontiac,  who  availed  himself  of  the 
opportunity  afforded  by  the  outburst  of 
the  Revolution,  to  attempt  the  entire  ex- 
pulsion of  the  white  invaders  of  his  an- 
cestral lauds.  The  chief  planned  a  general 
attack  upon  all  the  English  forts  on  the 
lakes,  massacred  the  garrison  at  Macki- 
naw, and  laid  siege,  for  some  months,  to 
Detroit.  In  1805,  Michigan,  which  prior 
to  tliat  date  ibrmed  part  of  the  Northwest 
Tenitory,  was  fonned  iuto  a  separate 
territory. 

From  its  contiguity  to  Canada,  Michi- 
gan was  called  early  into  the  field  in  the 
War  of  1812.  Detroit  was  surrendered 
to  the  enemy  by  General  IIull,  August 
15th,  the  fort  at  Mackinaw  having  already 
been  captured.  A  number  of  American 
prisoners  of  war  were  butchered  by  the 
Indians  at  Frenchtown  on  the  22d  of 
January,  1813.  The  >State^  suffered  at 
tliis  period  many  trials,  until  General 
Harrison  at  length  drove  the  British  into 
Canada,  carrying  the  vrar  into  their  ovv^n 
country.  Detroit  was  not  surrendered  to 
the  United  States  until  179G.  Michigan 
came  into  the  Union  as  an  independent 
State  in  the  year  1837,  and  has  since 
rapidly  advanced  in  population,  v/ealth, 
and  production.  The  State  is  divided  into 
62  counties,  and  contains  several  hand- 
some cities  and  towns ;  among  the  most 
important  are  Detroit,  Lansing,  the  capi- 
tal. Grand  Rapids,  Adrian,  Kalamazoo, 
Ann  Arbor,  JacJcson,  and  Monroe.  The 
population  of  the  State  in  1860  was 
749,113,  of  whom  upward  of  3,000  were 
Indians. 

Railways.  —  The  Micliigan  Central 
jRailway  extends  284  miles  from  Detroit 
to  Chicago. 

The  JacJcson^  Lanaing^  and  Saginaw 
Raihoaij^  30  miles  to  Lansing. 

The  Michigan  Southern^  in  connection 
with  the  Northern  Indiana  Railway^  trav- 
erses the  southern  line  of  Michigan  and 
the  upper  line  of  Indiana,  244  miles  from 
Toledo  to  Chicago. 

The  Detroit  and  Milwaukee  Railway 
crosses  the  State,  189  miles,  from  Detroit 
to  Grand  Haven,  on  Lake  Michigan,  oppo- 
site Milwaukee. 


The  Arnhoy^  Lansing^  and  Traverse  Bay 
Railway,  28  miles  from  Owosso  to  Lansing, 
the  State  capital. 

The  Great  Western  {Canada)  Railway 
has  its  western  terminus  at  Windsor,  op- 
posite Detroit.  The  Grand  Trunk  Rail- 
way connects  at  Detroit  -with  the  Michi- 
gan Central,  Detroit  and  Milwcmkee,  and 
Michigan  Southern  Railways. 

The  Detroit,  Monroe,  and  Toledo  Rail- 
way, from  Detroit  south  to  Toledo,  Ohio, 
65  miles. 

The  Jackson  Branch  of  the  Michigan 
Southern  Railway,  from  Adrian  north  to 
Jackson,  on  the  Michigan  Central,  45 
miles. 

The  Monroe  B^-anch,  from  Monroe  to 


Adrian,  32  miles 


DETROIT. 

Hotels,  the  Russell  House;  the  Bid- 
die  House  ;  the  Michigan  Exchange. 

Routes. — From  New  York.  By  the 
Hudson  River  or  Harle^n  Railway  to 
Albany,  thence  by  the  Central  Raihcay, to 
Buffalo  or  Niagara  Falls,  or  to  Buflalo 
and  Niagara  by  the  Ncio  York  and  Erie 
Railway.  (See  these  routes  elsev-here.) 
From  Buffalo  or  Niagara  take  the  GrecLt 
Western  Railway  (Canada),  to  Windsor, 
opposite  Detroit.  Total  distance  from 
New  York,  about  673  miles.  Detroit  may 
also  be  pleasantly  reached  from  Buflalo 
or  Dunkirk,  via  Cleveland,  Sandusky  City, 
and  Toledo,  Ohio,  by  the  railways  on  the 
southern  shore  of  Lake  Erie,  or  by  the 
Lake  Erie  steamers.  From  Chicago  to 
Detroit,  by  the  Michigan  Centred  ovhy  the 
Michigan  Southern  and  Northern  Indiana 
Railways  ;  distance  by  the  former  284 
miles,  by  the  latter  309  miles.  Pullman's 
sleeping-cars  on  night  trains. 

Detroit  is  one  of  the  great  commercial 
depots  of  the  West,  and  the  chief  city  of 
Michigan.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  upon 
the  west  side  of  the  Detroit  River,  a  link 
in  the  chain  of  waters  which  unite  Lake 
Huron  and  Lake  Erie.  This  strait,  for 
such  it  is,  gives  the  city  its  French  name 
— detroit.  It  is.  here  about  half  a  mile 
in  width,  and  is  charmingly  dotted  with 
beautiful  islands.  The  city  is  distant  18 
miles  from  the  head  of  Lake  Eiie,  and  8 
miles  from  the  outlet  of  Lake  St.  Clair.    It 

227 


Lansing.] 


MICHIGAN. 


[Grand  Haten. 


occupies  a  position  equally  advantageous 
for  comraerce  and  picturesque  for  travel, 
being  directly  in  the  way  of  the  tide  of  travel 
and  transportation  from  the  Atlantic  to  the 
Mississippi,  and  great  railways  and  steam- 
ers, with  their  freights,  necessarily  pay- 
ing it  tribute.  Detroit  was  founded  by 
the  French  in  18'70.  It  was  the  capital 
of  the  State  from  1836  until  18-17,  when 
it  was  removed  to  Lansing.  The  city 
embraces  an  area  of  about  10  square 
miles,  laid  out  in  wide  streets  and  ave- 
nues, and  lighted  with  gas.  Jefferson  and 
Woodicard  Avenues,  and  Co7\gress  Street, 
are  fine  thoroughfares.  The  Campus 
Martins  is  its  most  attractive  public 
Sfiuare.  There  is  a  fine  open  area  called 
the  Grand  Circles,  toward  which  the 
avenues  of  that  part  of  the  city  lying  back 
of  th(3  river  converge.  The  Old  State- 
House  is  a  noteworthy  edifice,  with  its 
dome  and  its  tall  steeple  overlooking  the 
town  and  its  environs,  Lake  St.  Clair 
above,  and  the  Canadian  shores.  The 
City  Hall  is  a  brick  structure,  with  a 
fa9ade  100  feet  in  length.  The  city  pos- 
sesses also  a  fine  Cusioni-Honse,  and  other 
public  edifices,  and  many  elegant  private 
residences. 

Detroit  has  in  late  years  become  an  ex- 
tensive manufacturing  point.  The  copper 
and  iron  smelting-wurks  above  and  below 
the  city  are  vvorth  visiting. 

Among  the  most  noteworthy  edifices 
are  its  churches,  and  its  benevolent  and 
charitable  institutions.  Of  the  latter,  the 
Industrial  Sehool,  the  Harper,  and  St. 
Jfan/s  and  Marine  Hospitals,  and  the 
Orphan  Asylum,  are  the  best  worth  visit- 
ing. Lines  of  street  cars  afford  ready 
communication  with  every  part  of  the 
city  and  suburbs.  The  residence  of  the  late 
General  Lev»is  Cass  is  among  the  objects 
of  interest.  Detroit  has  a  large  and 
growing  trade  with  Lake  Superior,  and 
this  is  the  best  point  from  v^dnch  to  take 
steamer  for  the  upjjcr  peninsula  of  Mich- 
igan, and  the  famous  copper-mines  of 
that  region.  Population,  0;3,000.  Wind- 
sor, the  termiiuis  of  the  Great  Western 
(Canada)  Jiailway,  opijosite  Detroit,  is 
rearhed  by  ferry.  (For  means  of  com- 
munieation  with  other  cities,  see  Rail- 
ways.) 

]L<  u  II  H  i  II  g'  • — IIoxKL,  the  Lansing 
Home. 

228 


Lansing,  tlie  capital  of  ^lichigan,  is 
upon  the  Grand  Iviver,  110  miles  north- 
west of  Detroit.  The  Amhoy,  Lansing, 
and  Traverse  Bay  Railway  connects  it 
with  Owosso  on  the  Detroit  and  Milwau- 
kee Raihoay  (28  miles).  Lansing  became 
the  seat  of  the  State  government  in  1847, 
at  which  period  it  was  almost  a  wilder- 
ness. The  State-House  is  a  spacious 
structm^e  situated  on  an  eminence  over- 
looking Grand  River.  The  population  of 
the  city  is  now  about  4,000. 

Aiaia  Aa'l>©i*  is  a  flourishing  place 
of  9,000  inhabitants,  upon  the  line  of  the 
Michigan  Central  Railway,  37  miles  west 
of  Detroit.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  State 
University,  founded  in  1837.  This  insti- 
tution is  liberally  endowed,  and  has  about 
800  students,  and  a  library  of  10,000 
volumes. 

Ypsilaiiti. — Hotel,  the  Hawkins 
House. 

Ypsilanti,  30  miles  west  of  Detroit,  on 
the  line  of  the  Centred  liaihoay,  is  on  the 
Huron  River,  and  in  the  midst  of  a  fine 
farming  district.  The  Slate  Normal 
School  is  a  fine  institution.  It  contains 
some  important  manufactories.  Popula- 
tion, 3,700. 

Monroe  City.  —  Hotel,  Strong'^s 
Hotel. 

Monroe  City,  one  of  the  principal 
towns  of  Michigan,  and  the  capital  of 
Monroe  County,  is  upon  the  Raisin  River, 
2  miles  from  Lake  Erie,  and  41  miles  be- 
low Detroit,  and  24  miles  north  of  Toledo 
by  the  Detroit,  3fonroe,  and  Toledo  Hail- 
way.  Tlie  Court-Hou.^e  is  a  fine  stone 
edifice,  erected  at  a  cost  of  ^35,000. 
Large  quantities  of  wheat  are  shipped 
hence.  Monroe  was  settled  by  the  French 
about  1776. 

(liraud.  Ilavcii,  on  Lake  Michi- 
gan, is  the  western  terminus  of  the  De- 
troit and  Milwaukee  Hail  way.  It  is  situ- 
ated on  a  fine  site  at  tlie  mouth  of  the 
(Jrand  River,  directly  opposite  the  bt'auti- 
ful  and  flourishing  city  of  Milwaukee.  It 
has  an  excellent  harbor  formed  by  the 
river  and  bays,  extending  some  15 
miles,  with  a  depth  of  water  from  30 
to  60  feet,  sufiicient  for  vessels  of  the 
largest  size.  The  entrance  to  the  harbor 
is  650  feet  wide.  The  distance  from 
Grand  Haven  to  Milwaukee  is  80  miles. 
A  fine  of    transit   steamers,    fitted    up 


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MICHIGAN. 


[Adrian. 


in  the  most  costly  manner,  with  every 
regard  for  safety  and  comfort  of  pas- 
sengers, plies  twice  daily  between  the 
two  ports,  in  connection  with  the  regu- 
lar trains  over  the  Detroit  and  Mihvan- 
kec  and  Ililwaitkee  and  St.  Paul  Rail- 
loays.  Steamers  up  and  down  Lake 
Michigan  touch  here. 

aijiclisoaa  is  situated  on  Grand 
River,  and  at  the  intersection  of  the 
Michigan  Central  and  Jackson  Branch 
of  the  Michigan  Southern  Railways^  76 
miles  Avest  of  Detroit.  The  State  Peni- 
icnt'iary  is  well  worthy  a  visit.  About 
live  hundred  convicts  are  here  employed 
at  mechanical  labor.  It  has  several  fine 
church  edilices  and  a  seminary  for  young- 
ladies. 

^i-asatl  ItaBpitls,  the  capital  of 
Kent  County,  and  the  second  city  of  the 
State,  is  situated  at  the  rapids  of  Grand 
River,  32  miles  east  of  Grand  Haven,  and 
157  miles  west  of  Detroit.  It  is  pleas- 
antly located  on  both  banks  of  the  river, 
and  commands  some  fine  views.  It  was 
settled  in  1833  and  incorporated  in  1850. 
The  river  is  300  yards  wide,  and  falls  18 


feet  within  a  mile,  producing  abimdant 
water-power.  Pleasant  trips  may  be 
made  by  boat  above  the  falls  to  Lyons, 
50  miles,  or  below  to  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  where  connection  is  made  with  the 
lake  steamers.     Population,  9,000. 

AfllB'San,  the  county  seat  of  Lena- 
wee County,  lies  on  a  branch  of  the  Raisin 
River  at  the  intersection  of  the  Michigan 
Southern  and  the  Monroe  and  Jackson 
Branches,  33  miles  from  Toledo,  32  miles 
from  Monroe,  73  miles  from  Detroit, 
and  45  miles  from  Jackson.  It  has 
several  large  manufactories.  The  public 
buildings  are  commodious  and  substan- 
tial    Population,  7,000. 

S^alaiiasszoo,  143  miles  west  of 
Detroit  and  141  east  of  Chicago,  via  the 
Central  Railway^  stands  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Kalamazoo  River.  The  College 
and  State  Insane  Asylum  are  prominent 
edifices. 

Mai'slisall,  36  miles  east  of  Kala- 
mazoo, is  mainly  interesting  to  the  travel- 
ler on  the  Central  road,  as  the  dining 
station  on  the  mornmg  trains  from  Chica- 
go and  Detroit, 


229 


Xaxsas.] 


KANSAS. 


[Kansas. 


e:ai!^s  AS. 


Kansas,  one  of  tlie  new  States  Avest 
of  the  Mississippi,  extends  from  SV  to 
40°  north  latitude,  in  the  same  belt  as 
Northern  Kentucky  and  Virginia,  and 
Southern  Indiana  and  Illinois.  It  is  G30 
miles  in  its  extreme  length  and  209  miles 
in  its  greatest  v/idth.  It  is  bounded 
eastward  by  Missouri,  northward  by  Ne- 
braska, westward  by  Colorado,  and  south- 
ward by  New  Mexico  and  Indian  Terri- 
tory. It  is  divided  into  45  counties,  and 
embraces  an  area  of  80,000  square  miles. 
The  capital,  Topeka,  is  pleasantly  situated 
on  the  south  bank  of  the  Kansas  Kiver. 
Its  principal  city  is  Leavenworth  on  the 
Missouri,  The  other  chief  towns  are  Law- 
rence, Atchison,  Wyandotte,  Fort  Scott, 
and  Manhattan.  It  was  organized  as  a 
Territory,  May  29, 1854,  and  admitted  as 
a  State,  January  30,  186L  The  popula- 
tion, which  now  amounts  to  nearly 
180,000,  is  mainly  distributed  through 
the  eastern  portion  of  the  State. 

The  prevailing  landscape  features  of 
Kansas  are  those  of  gently  alternating 
rid'jres,  or  terrace  and  vallev.  The  coun- 
try  is  a  vast  undulating  plain  from  the 
eastern  side  to  the  base  of  the  mountain 
ranges  on  the  west. 

The  face  of  the  countiy  is  beautiful 
be}oud  comparison.  The  prairies,  though 
broad  and  expansive,  stretching  away 
miles  in  many  places,  seem  never  lonely 
or  wearisome,  being  gently  undulating, 
or  more  abruptly  rolling;  and,  at  the 
ascent  of  each  new  roll  of  land,  the  trav- 
eller finds  himself  in  the  midst  of  new 
loveliness.  There  are  also  high  bluffs, 
usually  at  some  little  distance  from  the 
rivers,  running  through  the  entire  length 
of  the  country,  while  ravines  run  from 
them  to  tlie  rivers.  These 
230 


are,  at  some 


points,  quite  deep  and  difficult  to  cross, 
and,  to  a  traveller  unacquainted  with  the 
country,  somewhat  vexatious,  especi.ally 
where  the  prairie  grass  is  as  high  as  a 
person's  head,  while  seated  in  a  carriage. 
There  is  little  trouble,  however,  if  travel- 
lers keep  back  from  the  water-courses, 
and  near  the  high  lands.  These  ravines 
arc,  in  many  instances,  pictures  of  beauty, 
with  tall,  graceful  trees,  cotton-wood, 
black  walnut,  hickory,  oak,  elm,  and  lin- 
wood,  standing  near,  while  springs  of 
pure  cold  water  gush  from  the  rock.  The 
bluffs  are  a  formation  unknown,  in  form 
and  appearance,  in  any  other  portion  of 
the  Vv'est.  At  a  little  distance,  a  persoji 
can  scaicely  realize  that  art  had  not 
added  hei'  finishing  touches  to  a  work 
which  nature  had  made  singularly  beau- 
tiful. Many  of  the  blufts  appear  like  the 
cultivated  grounds  about  fine  old  resi- 
dences v/ithin  the  Eastern  States,  terrace 
rising  above  terrace,  with  ureat  regularity ; 
while  others  look  like  forts  in  the  dis- 
tance. In  the  eastern  part  of  the  State, 
most  of  the  timber  is  upon  the  rivers  and 
creeks  ;  though  there  are  in  some  places 
most  delightful  spots,  high  hills,  crowned 
with  a  heavy  growth  of  trees,  and  deep 
vales,  where  rippling  waters  gush  amid  a 
dense  shade  of  flowering  shrubbery. 

Higher  than  the  bluffs  are  natural 
mounds,  which  also  have  about  them  the 
look  of  art.  They  rise  to  such  a  height  as 
to  be  seen  at  a  great  distance,  and  add  pe- 
culiar beauty  to  the  whole  appearance  of 
the  country.  From  the  summit  of  these  the 
prospect  is  almost  unlimited  in  extent, 
and  unrivalled  in  beauty.  The  prairie, 
for  miles,  with  its  gentle  undulations, 
lies  before  the  eye.  Kivers  glistening  in 
the    sunlight,    flow  on    between  banks 


^ANSAa] 


KANSAS. 


[Routes. 


crowned  with  tall  trees ;  beyond  these, 
other  hi<i,h  pouits  arise.  Trees  scattered 
here  and  there,  like  old  orchards,  and 
cattle  in  large  numbers  are  grazing  upon 
the  liill-side  and  in  the  valleys,  giving  to 
all  the  look  of  cultivation  and  home-life. 
It  is,  indeed,  difficult  to  realize  that  for 
thousands  of  years  this  country  has  been 
a  waste,  uncultivated  and  solitary,  and 
that  but  a  few  years  have  elapsed  since 
the  white  settler  has  sought  here  for  a 
home. 

The  climate  differs  materially  from  that 
of  the  same  latitude  farther  east.  With 
a  clear,  dry  atmosphere,  and  gentle, 
health -giving  breezes,  it  is  favorable  to 
out-door  pursuits  and  pleasures.  The 
peculiar  clearness  of  the  atmosphere  can- 
not be  imagined  by  a  non-resident.  For 
miles  here  a  person  can  clearly  distin- 
guish objects  which  at  the  same  distance 
in  any  other  part  of  this  country  he  could 
uot  see  at  all. 

The  summers  are  long,  and  winters 
short.  The  winters  are  usually  very  mild 
and  open,  with  little  snow — none  falling 
in  the  night,  save  what  the  morrow's  sun 
will  quickly  cause  to  disappear.  So  mild 
are  they  that  the  cattle  of  the  Indians, 
as  those  of  the  settlers  in  Western  Mis- 
souri, feed  the  entire  year  in  the  prairies 
and  river-bottoms.  The  Indians  say  that 
once  in  about  seven  years  Kansas  sees  a 
cold  and  severe  winter,  with  snows  of  a 
foot  in  depth.  Two  weeks  of  cold  weather 
is  called  a  severe  winter.  Tlien  the  spring- 
like weather  comes  in  February ;  the 
earth  begins  to  grow  warm,  and  her  fer- 
tile bosom  ready  to  receive  the  care  of 
the  husbandman. 

A  few  years  ago,  the  only  white  set- 
tlements in  Kansas  as  in  Nebraska,  were 
the  United  States  military  stations,  but 
DOW  pleasant  cities  and  towns  are  spring- 
ing up  over  all  the  land. 

Pawnee,  on  the  north  branch  of  the 
Kansas,  12  miles  west  of  the  confluence 
of  th.e  Big  Blue  River,  vras  designated  as 
the  place  of  meeting  of  the  first  Legisla- 
ture, July  2,  1855.  It  v,'as  adjourned  on 
the  6th  of  July,  without  the  sanction  of 
the  Governor,  to  the  Shawnee  mission, 
near  Westport. 

Routes. — The  most  direct  routes  by 
which  to  reach  Kansas  from  the  East 
are  the  Pacijic  and  the  North  Missouri 


Railways^  from  St.  Louis  ;  and  the  Chica- 
go^ Burlington,  and  Qimici/,  and  Hannibal 
and  St.  Joseph  Bailways,  from  Chicago. 
Connections  are  made  on  these  routes  at 
Leavenworth  and  Wyandotte  by  the 
Union  Pacific  {PJ.  D.)  liailway  with 
Lawrence,  Topeka,  Manhattan,  Fort 
Riley,  and  Junction  City.  The  steam- 
boat route  from  St.  Louis  by  the  Mis- 
souri River  to  Leavenworth  (distance  495 
miles)  usually  occupies  three  days.  A 
trip  over  the  Union  Pacific  Road,  from 
Leavenworth  or  Wyandotte  westward  to 
Junction  City,  or  up  the  Missouri  to  the 
several  towns  on  that  river,  which  can 
be  accomplished  comfortably  in  from  one 
to  two  weeks,  will  afford  the  visitor  an 
opportunity  to  see  all  the  most  im- 
portant towns  and  objects  of  interest 
in  the  State,  though  months  may  be  prof- 
itably and  pleasantly  spent  in  travelling 
through  the  interior. 

Names  of  places  and  distances  on  the 
Missouri  River,  between  St.  Louis  and 
Leavenworth :  To  mouth  of  Missouri  River, 
20  miles  ;  St.  Charles,  Mo.,  45  ;  Augusta, 
Mo.,  '76;  South  Point,  Mo.,  82;  Wash- 
ington, Mo.,  84 ;  Miller's  Landing,  Mo., 
98;  Hermann,  Mo.,  120;  Portland,  Mo., 
141;  St.  Aubert,  Mo.,  151;  Jefferson 
City,  Mo.,  174;  Providence,  Mo.,  207; 
Rocheport,  Mo.,  220 ;  Boonviile,  Mo., 
232;  Arrow  Rock,  Mo.,  247;  Glasgow, 
Mo.,  264;  Cambridge,  Mo.,  273;  Bruns- 
wick, Mo.,  299;  Miami,  Mo.,  314  ;  Beilin, 
Mo.,  360;  Lexington,  Mo.,  370  ;  Welling- 
ton, Mo.,  378  ;  Camden,  Mo.,  388  ;  Sibley, 
Mo.,  406;  Richfield,  Mo.,  420;  Liberty, 
Mo.,  435 ;  Kansas  City,  Mo.,  456  ;  Park- 
ville.  Mo.,  471. 

Rivers. — The  Kansas  River,  sometimes 
pronounced  "  Kaw,"  the  largest  stream  of 
this  region,  excepting  the  Missouri,  which 
washes  its  northeastern  boundary,  is  form- 
ed by  the  Republican  and  the  Smoky  Hill 
Forks,  which  rise  in  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
and  unite  their  waters  at  Fort  Riley.  The 
length  of  the  Kansas,  including  its 
branches  is  nearly  1,000  miles.  Its 
course  is  through  a  productive  valley  re- 
gion or  plain,  covered  with  forest-trees, 
and  varied  here  and  there  with  pie;ur- 
esque  bluffs  and  hills.  The  Kansas  River 
is  a  tributary  of  the  Missouri,  and  steam- 
boats ascend,  in  good  stages  of  water, 
from  its  mouth,  120  miles  to  Fort  Riley. 

231 


Kansas  City.] 


KANSAS. 


[Fort  Riley. 


The  Arkansas  Hiver  has  nearly  half  its 
course  within  the  borders  of  Kansas. 

The  Omge  River  rises  south  of  the 
Kansas,  flows  nearly  eastward  500  miles 
to  the  Missouri,  which  it  enters  ten  miles 
below  Jefferson  City. 

¥£a£i.^«i!^  Ci4y* — the  county  seat 
of  Jackson  County,  and  one  of  the  most 
important  towns  on  the  river — is  well 
situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Mis- 
souri, 456  miles  by  steamboat  and  282 
miles  by  the  Pacific  Railway  from  St. 
Louis.  It  has  immediate  daily  connec- 
tion by  rail  with  Leavenworth,  Lawrence, 
Topeka,  and  all  river  and  interior  towns 
in  Kansas.  It  contains  one  or  two  sub- 
stantial public  buildings,  8  churches,  4 
banks,  and  several  extensive  conuiiercial 
and  manufacturing  establishments.  The 
hotel  accommodation  is  poor,  the  houses, 
of  which  there  are  four,  being  small  and 
ill-kept.     Population,  8,000. 

Sjcavea^Tortli  City. — Hotel, 
Planters'  Houae.  Leavenworth,  the  prin- 
cipal commercial  city  of  Kansas,  stands 
upon  the  west  bank  of  the  Missouri 
Eiver,  about  midway  between  St.  Joseph 
and  Kansas  City.  It  has  daily  communi- 
cation by  railway  with  Chicago,  St.  Louis, 
and  the  principal  cities  of  the  Union ; 
also  regular  steamboat  communication 
with  all  towns  on  the  Missouri  Eiver.  It 
contains  several  fine  church  edifices,  a 
mercantile  library,  theatre,  and  medical 
college.  Three  daily  newspapers  are  pub- 
lished here.  Fort  Leavenworth^  one  mile 
north  of  the  city,  is  worth  visiting.  Pop- 
ulation of  the  city  is  about  20,000. 

Sja^vrence,  one  of  the  most  at- 
tractive towns  in  Kansas,  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Kansas 
River,  45  miles  from  its  mouth.  The 
Union  Pacific  {E.  D.)  Railway  gives  daily 
communication  eastward  with  Leaven- 
worth (33  miles),  and  Wyandotte  (39 
miles),  and  westward  with  Topeka,  Man- 
hattan, and  Fort  Riley.  It  was  founded 
in  1854,  and  has  l>een  twice  devastated 
by  fire.  It  contains  a  good  hotel,  several 
substantial  edifices,  and  promises  to  be 
one  of  the  handsomest  towns  in  the  State. 
Population,  4,000. 

*  Kansas  City,  though  in  Missouri,  is  placed 
hero  to  facilitate  rofei'cnce. 
232 


Topclia,  the  capital  of  the  State,  is 
prettily  located  on  the  south  eide  of  the 
Kansas  River,  and  on  the  Union  Pacific 
{E.  D.)  Raihoay,  30  miles  west  of  Law- 
rence, and  68  miles  west  of  Wyandotte. 
The  Greets  are  wide  and  well  built,  and 
the  city  presents  a  substantial  and  mvit- 
ing  appearance.  The  neighborhood  has 
many  pleasant  drives.  The  population 
already  numbers  between  3,000  and 
4,000,  and  is  rapidly  increasing. 

Masilsatlaaa,  80  miles  from  Law- 
rence, and  119  from  Vv''yandotte  by  rail, 
is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Big 
Blue  with  the  Kansas  River.  The  former 
stream  affords  a  fine  water-power.  The 
State  Agricultural  College  is  worthy  a 
visit. 

S^ovt  ISiiey,  three  miles  east  of 
Junction  City,  the  present  terminus  of  the 
Union  Pacific  [E.  D.)  Railway^  is  mainly 
interesting  to  the  tourist  as  a  military 
post.  The  barracks,  built  in  1853-54,  are 
of  stone,  and  have  accommodation  for 
eight  companies.  The  Methodist  Missiov, 
in  the  vicinity  should  be  visited.  The 
Republican  and  Smoky  Hill  Forks  unite 
their  streams  to  form  the  Kansas  River 
at  this  point. 

Travellers  bound  still  farther  west  will 
take  stage  at  Junction  City,  3  miles 
west  of  Fort  Riley. 

fi-'oi't  S^cott,  another  military  poGt, 
is  on  the  Marineton  Creek,  in  the  south- 
ern part  of  the  State,  120  miles  south 
of  Leavenworth.  The  post  was  estab- 
lished in  1842,  and  the  town  incorpo- 
rated in  1855.     Population,  2,000. 

Atcliisoii,  a  thriving  city  on  the 
west  bank  (Big  Bend)  of  the  Missouri, 
at  the  mouth  of  Independence  Creek, 
was  long  famous  as  an  outfitting  depot; 
and  point  of  departure  on  the  great  over- 
land route  to  the  Pacific.  It  is  connect- 
ed with  Leavenworth,  St.  Joseph,  Oma- 
ha, and  other  towns  on  the  Missouri,  by 
river  and  rail.  It  contains  a  college,  a 
bank,  a  hotel,  and  several  fine  public 
buildings.  The  Free  Press  and  Champion 
of  Freedom  are  published  here.  Popula- 
tion, 4,500. 

Doniphan  is  a  small  grain-shipping 
port,  on  the  river,  a  few  miles  north 
of  Atchison. 


Nebraska.] 


NEBRASKA. 


[Nebraska. 


]sr  E  B  E  A  S  K  A . 


Nebraska,  though  the  most  recently 
admitted  member  of  the  IJnion,  is  neither 
the  least  important  nor  interesting.  This 
State  lies  between  40°  and  43''  north  lat- 
itude, and  embraces  an  area  of  '76,000 
square  miles.  It  is  bounded  on  the  south 
by  Kansas,  on  the  east  by  the  Missouri 
River,  on  the  north  by  Dacotah,  and  on 
the  west  by  the  new  Territory  of  Wyo- 
ming. The  name  of  this  Territory  has 
not  yet  been  determined  by  Congress.  It 
has  a  river  frontage  of  nearly  300  miles, 
and  runs  west  about  450  miles. 

The  history  of  this  young  State  maybe 
thus  briefly  stated  :  tip  to  1712  Nebras- 
ka formed  a  part  of  the  great  grant  of 
the  Mississippi  Valley  to  Crozart.  and  was 
part  of  the  territory  included  in  Law's 
Mississippi  scheme.  As  a  portion  of  the 
Louisiana  purchase  it  came  into  the  pos- 
session of  the  United  States  in  1803.  The 
-first  explorers  of  the  territory  of  whom 
we  have  any  authentic  account,  were 
Lewis  and  Clarke,  who,  after  wintering  at 
Fort  Mandan  (1804-'5),  crossed  the  Rocky 
Mountains  to  Oregon.  In  1854  the  famous 
Nebraska  Bill,  repealing  the  Missouri 
Compromise,  and  limiting  the  extension  of 
slavery,  was  passed ;  and  on  May  30th,  of 
the  same  year,  the  territory  was  organized. 
It  was,  after  much  discussion,  admitted 
as  a  State,  January,  1867.  The  adjoining 
Territory  of  Dacotah  was  formed  out  of  it 
in  1861.  It  is  at  present  divided  into  40 
counties,  and  contains  a  population  vari- 
ously estimated  at  from  65,000  to  75,000. 
It  is  situated  in  the  geographical  centre 
of  the  continent,  equidistant  between  the 
Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans,  on  the  great 
highway  of  trade  and  travel  between  the 
East  and  West,  North  and  South,  and 
must  advance  rapidly  in  population  and 


production.  The  Missouri  River,  which 
washes  its  entire  eastern  boundary,  affords 
easy  outlet  to  the  St.  Louis  and  Southern 
markets,  for  the  products  of  the  soil ;  while 
the  Union  Pacific  Jxailway^  now  completed 
350  miles  westward,  places  the  traveller 
in  direct  communication  with  the  growing 
towns  on  the  Platte,  and  its  branches  as 
far  as  the  eastern  boundary  of  Colorado. 
The  agricultural  and  mineral  resources  of 
the  State  are  now  being  rapidly  developed, 
and  new  towns  are  sprhiging  up  along 
the  main  avenues  of  travel  with  a  rapid- 
ity which  would  seem  marvellous  any- 
where save  in  the  Great  West.  Thus  far 
the  railway  system  of  the  State  is  em- 
braced by  the  Union  Pacific  Rcdhcay^ 
which  runs  due  west  from  Omaha  to  North 
Platte  Station,  where  connection  is  made 
with  yVells^  P\irgo  &  Co''s.  Overland  Stage 
Line  to  Denver  and  all  poiuts  west. 

€^saasalis3^  the  capital  and  chief  com- 
mercial city  of  Nebraska,  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Missouri 
River,  18  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Platte  River,  and  immediately  opposite 
the  town  of  Council  Blufis,  Iowa,  with 
which  it  has  constant  communication  by 
ferry.  A  bridge  is  in  contemplation  at 
this  point.  Omaha  is  one  of  the  most 
important  and  thriving  towns  on  the  Mis- 
souri River,  ranking  next  to  Leavenworth 
and  St.  Joseph  in  point  of  population. 
The  site  is  pleasantly  undulating,  com- 
manding an  extended  view  of  tlie  river, 
north  and  south.  The  name  of  the  city 
is  derived  from  a  tribe  of  Indians  v.lio 
formerly  inhabited  this  region.  In  1853 
the  site  of  the  present  city  was  an  unin- 
habited wild.  In  1860  the  population 
was  but  1,883.  In  1865  it  had  increased 
to  4,500,  and  it  is  now  estimated  at  6,000. 

233 


Nebraska  City.] 


NEBRASKA. 


[Plattesmouth. 


The  Capitol,  a  brick  edifice,  occupies  a 
commanding  site  on  the  Kepubhcan  block. 
The  Hcrndon  House  is  the  principal  hotel. 
It  affords  but  indifferent  accommodation, 
a  new  hotel  being  much  needed.  Lime- 
stone of  good  quahty  is  found  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  the  city.  Fort  CaUioun  and 
Florence  are  a  short  distance  north  of 
Oraalia.  Below  are  the  stations  on  the 
Union,  Pacific  Railroad :  Omaha,  to 
PapilUon,  13  mUes ;  Elkhorn,  29;  Fre- 
mont, 47  ;  North  Bend,  61  ;  Sliell  Creek, 
76  ;  Columbus,  91 ;  Silver  Creek,  109  ; 
Lone  Tree,  132;  Grand  Island,  154; 
Wood  River,  172;  Kearnev,  190;  Elm 
Creek,  211;  Plum  Creek,  230;  Willow 
Island,  250  ;  Brady  Island,  268  ;  North 
Platte,  290. 

I^^el>i'aslca  City,  the  second  town 
of  the  State,  is  situated  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  Missouri,  86  miles  south  of  Omaha 
by  river.  It  is  prettily  situated  on  rising 
ground,  and  commands  some  fine  views. 
It  has  been  an  important  outfitting  point, 
and  still  retains  considerable  trade.  It  is 
the  seat  of  the  Episcopal  Bishop  of  the 
234 


Diocese.  It  contains  7  churches  and  one 
or  two  substantial  public  buildings — pop- 
ulation, 4,500.  Kearney  Citt/and  Broicns- 
ville  are  small  places  on  the  river  south 
of  Nebraska  City. 

l^iaStcsitaoiatla,  the  capital  of 
Cass  County,  is  on  the  Missouri,  1-i-  miles 
below  the  mouth  of  the  Platte,  and  38 
miles,  by  water,  south  of  Omaha.  It  has 
a  good  landing,  and  a  population  of  1,200. 

The  chief  interior  towns  of  Nebraska 
are  Pawnee,  Columbus,  Fremont,  Rulo, 
Decatur,  Fall  City,  and  Fontenelle. 

Distances. — From  St.  Louis  to  Omaha 
and  Fort  Pierre  on  Missouri  River :  To 
Leavenworth  City,  Kan.,  495  miles  ;  Wes- 
ton, Mo.,  505  ;  latan,  Mo.,  518  ;  Atchison, 
Kan.,  532  ;  St,  Joseph,  Mo,,  565  ;  Savan- 
nah, Mo,,  583;  Brownsville,  Neb.,  662; 
Nebraska  Citv,  Neb.,  714;  Omaha,  Neb., 
800;  Council  Bluffs,  Iowa,  802;  Flor- 
ence, Neb,,  815;  De  Soto,  Neb.,  843; 
Sioux  Citv,  Iowa,  1,050;  Fort  Vermilion, 
D.  T.,  1,129;  Fort  Randall,  D,  T.,  1,285; 
Fort  Lookout,  D.  T.,  1,385  ;  Fort  Pierre, 
D,  T.,  1,535. 


California."] 


CALirOENIA. 


[California. 


CALIFOE]sriA. 


No  traveller  can  be  said  to  have  made 
the  "grand  tour  "  of  the  American  Con- 
tinent, >vho  has  not  visited  California. 
This  State  contains  a  greater  number  and 
variety  of  natural  objects  of  interest  and 
beauty^ — more  to  impress  the  tourist  with 
the  magnitude  and  resources  of  the  coun- 
try and  the  future  v.hich  lies  before  it, 
than    perhaps   anv  other    State    in    the 


Union.     This  is,   we  believe, 


now  gener- 


ally conceded  by  intelligent  judges.  In- 
dependent, however,  of  its  numerous  and 
vai'ied  scenic  attractions,  California  has  a 
history  all  her  own,  which  must  ever  be 
replete  with  interest  for  the  traveller,  the 
more  so  as  he  witnesses  the  astonishing 
progress  which  it  has  made  during  the 
last  ten  years.  The  peninsula  of  Lower 
California  was  discovered  by  the  expedi- 
tions of  Cortez  in  1534-'35.  Upper  Cali- 
fornia was  seen  by  Cabrillo  in  1542. 
Sir  Francis  Drake  visited  the  coast  and 
discovered  Jack's  Harbor,  on  the  bay  of 
Sir  Francis  Drake,  a  few  miles  to  the 
northward  of  the  bay  of  San  Francisco, 
in  1579.  Francisco  Vila  landed  in  1582, 
and  Juan  del  Fuca  in  1595.  In  1596  a 
military  post  was  established  at  Santa 
Cruz  by  Sebastian  Vizcayno.  In  1'769 
the  bay  of  San  Francisco  was  discovered 
by  the  early  Spanish  missionaries,  who 
established  soaae  18  missions  in  the 
country  ;  these  continued  to  flourish  until 
after  the  Mexican  Revolution  in  1822, 
when  they  fell  into  decay  under  the  new 
government. 

Captain  John  Sutter  established  himself 
near  the  present  site  of  Sacramento  City 
in  1839.  In  1846  the  war  broke  out  be- 
tween the  United  States  and  Mexico, 
which  resulted  in  the  conquest  and  pur- 
chase of  California  by  the  United  States. 


The  treaty  ceding  California  and  ISTew 
Mexico  to  the  United  States  was  dated  at 
the  city  of  Guadalupe  Hidalgo,  February 
2,  1848;  ratified  by  the  United  States 
March  11,  1848,  exchanged  at  Queretaro, 
May  80,  1848,  and  proclaimed  by  the 
President,  July  4,  1848.  It  was  organ- 
ized as  a  State,  December  15,  1849,  and 
admitted  into  the  Union,  September  19, 
1850. 

Gold  was  discovered  in  January,  1848, 
by  James  W.  Marshall,  in  the  employ  of 
Captain  Sutter,  at  Sutter's  Mill,  on  the 
South  Fork  of  the  American  River,  near 
the  present  city  of  Sacramento,  From 
this  date  the  unprecedented  progress  of 
the  country  commenced. 

The  State  of  California  extends  along 
the  Pacific  coast  nearly  '750  miles  from 
southeast  to  northwest,  with  an  average 
breadth  from  east  to  west  of  250  miles, 
containing  an  area  of  187,500  square  miles, 
or  nearly  twice  the  size  of  Great  Britain. 
The  whole  country  naturally  falls  into 
three  great  divisions,  viz. :  First,  the 
great  valleys  of  the  Sacramento  and  San 
Joaquin  rivers,  with  all  their  lateral  val- 
leys ;  all  of  whose  waters  meet  in  the 
bay  of  San  Francisco,  passing  through 
the  Golden  Gate  to  the  Pacific  Ocean. 
Second,  the  portions  of  the  Coast  Range 
north  and  south  of  the  bay  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, where  the  country  is  drained  by 
streams  falhng  directly  into  the  Pacific, 
as  the  Klamath,  Eel  River,  Russian  River, 
the  Salinas,  San  Pedro,  and  San  Bernar- 
dino, with   others  of    lesser 


magnitude. 


Third,  the  coimtry  east  of  the  Sierra  Ne- 
vada chain,  the  waters  of  which  fall  into 


the  Great  Basin, 


having  no  outlet  to 


the 


ocean. 

The  ranges  of  mountains  comprise  the 

235 


California.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Routes. 


Sierra  Xevada,  which  divides  the  State  on 
the  east  from  the  Great  Basin,  and  the 
Coast  Range  on  the  west.  Between  the 
Sierra  Nevada  and  the  Coast  Range,  lies 
the  extensive  country  of  the  First  Divi- 
sion, a  valley  of  some  500  miles  in  length, 
with  an  average  breadth  of  80  miles, 
with  a  rich  soil  and  warm  climate,  pro- 
ducing all  the  fruits  of  the  warm  region, 
with  the  products  of  the  more  temperate 
climes.  The  lateral  valleys,  vnth  an  ele- 
vation of  from  1,000  to  5,000  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  produce  the  moi^e 
hardy  fruits  and  grains  common  to  the 
more  northern  States  of  the  Union. 

A  belt  of  gigantic  timber,  consisting  of 
pines,  firs,  cedars,  oaks,  etc.,  etc.,  extends 
the  entire  length  of  the  Sierra  Nevada 
range,  affording  a  supply  of  wood  that 
can  never  be  exhausted. 

The  mining  region  also  stretches  along 
this  range,  extending  on  the  north  into 
the  Coast  Mountains,  passing  into  Oregon 
with  an  average  breadth  of  40  or  50 
miles,  at  some  points  extending  from  the 
valley  to  near  the  summit  of  the  Sierras, 
a  distance  of  100  miles  in  breadth. 

The  Second  Division,  located  near  the 
coast,  contains  thousands  of  beautiful 
valleys,  some  of  which  are  very  extensive, 
as  that  of  the  Salinas,  whose  outlet  is  at 
the  bay  of  Monterey  and  the  country  ad- 
joining Los  Angeles  and  San  Diego. 
This  portion  has  a  cooler  climate  than 
the  lower  valleys  of  the  First  Division, 
owing  to  their  proximity  to  the  sea.  It 
yields  every  variety  of  protluct,  from  the 
orange  and  other  fruits  of  the  warm 
region  at  Los  Angeles,  to  the  more  tem- 
perate clime  and  products  of  Humboldt 
Bay  and  Trinity  River  at  tlie  nortli.  Gold 
is  also  found,  and  the  richest  quicksilv^er 
mines  in  the  world.  Oaks  and  gigantic 
redwoods  afri)rd  fine  lumber. 

Of  the  Third  Division,  the  country  east 
of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  but  little  is  known, 
especially  to  the  southeast,  yet  many 
fine  valleys  occur,  as  that  of  Carson's  A^al- 
ley,  which  now  contains  a  considerable 
population.  Gold  also  is  found  along  the 
eastern  slope  of  the  Sierra. 

Tlicse,  then,  arc  the  general  features  of 
the  country.  Much  more  might  be  said 
concerning  the  variety  of  climate  incident 
to  the  location,  the  different  natural  pro- 
ductions, the  mines  of  gold,  quicksilver, 
23G 


coal,  and  iron,  which  are  being  daily  dis- 
covered, with  the  many  advantages  of 
soil  and  climate  adapted  to  grazing  and 
agricultural  purposes. 

It  is  divided  into  45  counties.  Sacra- 
mento is  the  capital,  and  San  Francisco 
the  chief  commercial  city. 

Routes. — There  are  two  routes  by 
which  to  reach  California  from  New  York 
or  the  Eastern  States.  These  are  the 
Steamship  routes,  via  Panama  and  Nicara- 
gua, and  the  Consolidated  Overland  Rail- 
way and  Stage  route,  via  Omaha,  Denver, 
Salt  Lake  City,  and  Sacramento.  Two 
lines  of  steamers  are  now  running  be- 
tween New  York  and  San  Francisco,  viz. : 
the  "  Pacific  Mail"  and  the  "Opposition" 
or  "Nicaragua  Transit"  line.  The 
steamers  comprising  the  former  line  leave 
on  the  1st,  11th,  and  21st  of  each  month, 
from  Pier  No.  42,  foot  of  Canal  Street, 
for  Aspinwall  dii'cct,  where  they  connect 
with  the  Panama  Railway  and  the  com- 
pany's steamers  to  San  Francisco.  The 
boats  of  the  latter  leave  every  20  days 
from  Pier  No.  29,  foot  of  "Warren  Street. 

The  cost  of  passage  by  the  latter  line 
is  less  than  by  the  mail  line,  but  the  ac- 
commodations and  fare  are  not  so  good. 
(See  Advertisements.) 

The  routes  overland  have  become  by 
dint  of  travel  numerous  and  reasonably 
easy  and  safe.  Continuous  lines  of  rail- 
way from  the  principal  Eastern  cities  will 
carry  the  tourist  or  traveller  to  Omaha, 
Nebraska,  whence  the  Union  Pacific  Rall- 
loaij  and  the  Overland  Stages  of  Wells, 
Farejo  &  Co.,  conduct  him  to  Sacramento, 
California,  or  any  intermediate  point  on 
the  great  overland  line.  (See  Union  Paci- 
fic IJAiLWAYand  Overland  Stage  Line.) 

We  will  suppose  the  traveller  to  have 
selected,  as  he  most  probably  will,  the 
first  and  most  popular  of  these  routes, 
and  will  accompany  him  on  his  voyage. 

Leaving  New  York,  we  pass  down  the 
beautiful  bay  and  are  soon  upon  the  broad 
Atlantic.  Alter  crossing  the  Gulf  Stream, 
in  about  the  latitude  of  Cape  Ilattcras, 
we  occasionally  catch  a  ghmpse  of  the 
low  coral  islands  of  the  Baliamas.  Wot- 
Vnufs  Island,  one  of  this  group,  which 
forms  the  entrance  to  what  is  known  as 
the  Crooked  Island  passage,  is  usually 
reached  on  the  fourth  day  from  New 
York.     Five  days'  good  steaming  bring 


mmmQ  wmm%w^mmmmm5  ^. 


^ZT^~ 


Longitnile    Wgst  3|3        from    Vasliiiiffon 


i;,iv''w.u.i' 


la   New 
uuct.uu«,  xnc  mines  or  goTcirqaicksUver,  1  York.     Five  days'' good  stkining  bring 


23G 


ASPINWALL.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[A  SPIN  WALL. 


US  to  Cajie  Maysr,  the  eastorn  extremity 
of  Cuba,  whoso  highlands,  witli  those  of 
the  more  distant  mountains  of  San  Do- 
mingo, look  beautiful  in  the  warm  tropi- 
cal haze,  as  we  pass  between  them.  Eighty 
miles  S,  S.  W.,  of  Cape  Maysi,  is  the 
island  of  Nevasaa^  famous  for  its  large 
deposits  of  guano.  Leaving  this  island, 
the  blue  mountains  of  Jamaiea,  in  the 
neigliborhood  of  Porto  Bello,  loom  up, 
about  50  miles  to  our  right.  This  is  the 
last  land  seen  until  we  arrive  at  Aspinwall, 
the  Atlantic  terminus  of  the  Islhnms 
liallroad,  which  is  usually  reached  in 
favorable  weather  after  a  voyage  of  six 
to  seven  days  from  New  York.  Distance, 
1,980  miles. 

Asg^iai^vsill. — 'Hotels,  CUy^Howm^d. 

Aspinwall,  known  in  Europe  as  Colon, 
is  situated  upon  the  island  of  Manzanilla, 
at  the  northeast  entrance  to  Navy  Bay, 
and  owes  its  existence  and  present  hn- 
portance  to  the  Panama  Railway,  in 
conneelion  with  the  Pacific  Mail  Steam- 
ship Company.  The  population  consists 
of  the  employes  of  the  railway  and  steam- 
ship lines,  together  with  a  motley  class 
of  Jamaica  negroes.  Navy  Bay  is  about 
three  miles  in  length  by  two  in  width, 
and  abounds  iu  fish.  Beyond  the  novel 
phases  of  life  which  Aspinwall  presents, 
there  is  little  of  interest  in  the  place,  and 
the  traveller  is  usually  glad  to  take  his 
seat  in  the  cars  for  Panama. 

In  the  early  days  of  California  immi- 
gration, Aspinwall,  and  indeed  the  whole 
isthmus  in  this  latitude,  was  considered 
very  unhealthy,  and  fearful  are  the  tales 
told  of  the  suiferings  and  privations  of 
those  who  were  exposed  to  what  were  then 
not  hiaptly  called  the  "  horrors  of  the 
middle  passage ; "  but  with  the  comple- 
tion of  the  railway,  fevers  and  malai'ial 
diseases  have  pretty  much  disappeared, 
and  the  transit  is  now  comfortably  made 
in  about  three  hours. 

Leaving  Aspinwall,  less  than  half  a 
mile  brings  the  traveller  to  that  part  of 
the  island  shore  where  the  railway  leaves 
it,  and  crosses  over  the  frith  to  the 
swamps  of  the  main-land  beyond.  The 
shores  hereabouts  are  skirted  with  a 
dense  grove  of  mangrove-bu«hes,  v/hich 
droop  deep  into  the  water,  while  directly 
in  front  the  traveller  looks  through  a 
vista,    opened   by   the   railway,    into  an 


apparently  interminable  forest.  These 
waters  abound  in  beautiful  varieties  of 
fish,  known  among  the  natives  as  the 
Jlorcs-dd-mar,  or  the  "  flowers  of  the  sea." 
In  sliape  and  size  these  fish  resemble  tlie 
sun-fish  of  our  Northern  lakes,  and  are 
remarkable  for  their  varied  and  brilliant 
colors.  Passing  Mtjunt  Plope,  with  its 
cemetery,  we  shortly  cross  the  ]\rindee 
River,  famous  for  its  enormous  alligators, 
which  empties  into  Navy  Bay,  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  from  Aspinwall. 

For  several  miles  the  road  passes 
through  a  deep  marsh,  reaching  Gatun 
Station,  on  the  eastei'n  bank  of  the 
Chagres  River,  seven  miles  from  Aspin- 
wall, in  about  half  an  hour.  On  the  op- 
posite shore  of  the  river,  stands  the 
ancient  native  town  of  Gatun,  situated 
on  the  edge  of  a  broad  savannah,  and 
composed  of  some  forty  or  fifty  huts  of 
cane  and  palm.  This  was  a  famous  stop- 
ping-place in  the  early  days  of  California 
immigration  over  the  isthmus. 

Leaving  the  river  a  mile  or  two  to  the 
right,  we  next  traverse  a  dense  tropical 
forest,  with  occasional  clearings,  and  pass- 
ing a  few  native  huts,  arrive  at  Barbacoas, 
crossing  the  Chagres  River  upon  a  hand- 
some wrought-iron  bridge,  six  hundred 
and  twenty-five  feet  long,  and  forty  feet 
above  high  water  in  the  Rio  Cliagres. 
Beyond  Barbacoas  we  enter  a  beautiful 
stretch  of  meadow-lands,  bounded  by 
high  precipitous  hills,  while  the  river, 
broad  and  swift,  pursues  its  serpentine 
course  through  its  deep  channel  on  the 
left,  displaying  along  its  banks,  groups  of 
a  gigantic  species  of  branchless  ceiba, 
that  breaks  the  outline  of  dense  palm 
and  cocoa  groves.  The  cultivation  of 
the  lands  at  this  point,  is  said  to  date 
back  for  more  than  two  centuries,  and  to 
have  been  originally  prosecuted  by  the 
Jesuits.  The  stations  of  San  Pablo, 
Maraei,  and  the  native  settlement  of  Gor- 
gona,  are  next  quickly  passed,  and  then 
we  reach  the  beautiful  meadow-lands  of 
Matachin.  Here,  rising  in  all  their  state- 
lincss,  the  classic  sheaves  of  the  royal 
palm  shed  an  air  of  oriental  beauty  over 
the  landscape.  Beyond,  (he  ccrro  giganie 
(summit),  the  highest  point  of  the  isthmus, 
is  seen  on  our  right.  From  this  summit 
Balboa  is  said  to  have  discovered  the 
waters  of  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

237 


ASPINWALL.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Panama. 


Moving  westward,  we  get  occasional 
views  of  the  river,  gleaming  amid  the  rich 
verdure  of  gigantic  trees  and  overhanging 
vines,  until  we  reach  the  little  hamlet  of 
Matachin,  and  thence  on  to  the  summit. 
From  this  point  we  descend  rapidly  along 
the  base  of  MonumerU  Hill^  through  tlie 
valley  of  the  Rio  Obispo,  past  Empire 
Station,  to  the  little  native  settlement  of 
Culebra  ("the  Snake"),  which  was  the 
terminus  of  the  road  in  1854.  At  this 
point  commences  the  Facific  slope  of  the 
road,  with  a  descending  grade  of  60  feet 
to  the  mile.  A  mile  west  from  the  sum- 
mit, the  road  passes  along  the  side  of  a 
huge  basaltic  clifif,  whose  gigantic  crystals, 
nearly  a  foot  in  diameter,  and  from  eight 
to  twelve  feet  in  length,  appear  to  the  be- 
holder at  an  angle  of  forty  degrees.  This 
whole  region  give«  unmistakable  evidence 
that  severe  and  conjparatively  recent  vol- 
canic forces  have  been  instrumental  in  its 
formation.  Endless  growths  of  palm  now 
interpose,  and  break  the  view  for  nearly 
three  miles,  beyond  which  the  beautiful 
undidating  valley  of  Paraiso  (Paradise), 
the  bold  head  of  Momit  Ancon,  and  the 
Cerro  de  los  Buccaneron  (or  "  Hill  of  the 
Buccaneers " ),  with  the  distant  ocean, 
come  in  view.  Still  farther  in  the  dis- 
tance rise  the  towers  aiixi  spires  of  the 
city  of  Panama. 

Previous  to  the  completion  of  the  rail- 
road, the  steamers  touched  at  Chagres, 
from  which  place  the  travel  up  the  Chagres 
River  was  performed  in  native  boats  to 
Gorsona  or  Cruces,  thence  bv  animals  to 
Panama  ;  this  generally  occupied  three  or 
four  days,  and  was  attended  with  much 
exposure  and  discomfort,  which  very  often 
resulted  in  an  attack  of  Isthmus  fever,  so 
fatal  in  its  consequences.  In  1850  the 
survey  of  the  railroad  was  commenced, 
under  the  superintendence  of  the  well- 
known  traveller,  the  late  John  L.  Ste- 
phens. In  July,  1852,  23 J  miles  of  the 
road  were  completed,  from  Aspinwall  to 
Barl)acoas,  on  the  Chagres  River,  and 
opened  for  travel.  From  that  date  Cha- 
gres sunk  into  utter  neglect,  as  all  the 
travel  was  diverted  to  Aspinwall,  passing 
up  the  river  from  Barbacoas.  December, 
1«S54,  saw  the  road  completed  to  Culebra, 
on  the  summit.  Panama  was  reached 
from  the  latter  i)lace  by  animals.  It  was 
not  until  January  27,  1855,  five  years  after 
238 


its  commencement,  that  the  first  locomo- 
tive passed  over  the  entire  road  from 
ocean  to  ocean,  a  distance  of  49  miles. 
The  isthmus  nftbrded  little  or  no  material 
for  its  construction  ;  not  even  food  for  the 
laborers.  Every  thing  had  to  be  imported 
from  the  United  States  or  from  Europe. 
A  primeval  forest  was  cut  through,  den.-e 
jungles  were  opened,  deadly  swamps  were 
crossed,  deep  cuts  were  made,  rivers 
spanned  by  bridges,    whose   timber  was 


brought  from  afar 


and. 


more  than  all. 


the  pestilential  climate  swept  thousands 
upon  thousands  into  their  graves  ere  the 
oceans  were  united.  As  a  small  steamer 
is  lying  at  the  terminus  of  the  railroad  to 
convey  the  California  passengers  on  board 
the  Pacific  steamer,  which  is  waiting  for 
us  at  the  Island  of  Perico,  some  two  miles 
distant,  we  shall  not  have  an  opportunity 
of  visiting  the  city  of  Panama.  Yet  we 
obtain  a  general  view  as  we  pass  upon  our 
transit  to  the  steamer,  its  old  towers  and 
ramparts  gleaming  in  the  sun,  overgrown 
with  rank  vegetation,  presenting  a  time- 
worn  and  venerable  appearance,  finely  re- 
lieved bv  the  background  of  hills,  clothed 
in  the  richest  green. 

P  a.  i&  a  it&  a  .  —  Hotel,  Aspimvall 
House. — The  city  of  Panama  stands  upon 
a  rocky  peninsula  that  stretches  out  from 
the  base  of  Mount  Ancon,  about  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile  into  the  sea.  Its  roadstead 
is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world.  The 
city  itself  contains  many  objects  of  in- 
terest ;  but  owing  to  the  present  arrange- 
ment, travellers  en  route  for  California 
have  but  a  limited  opportunity  for  visit- 
ing them,  unless  they  should  lie  over  one 
steamer;  a  delay  which,  in  view  of  the 
greater  attractions  of  San  Francisco 
and  the  Golden  Gate,  few  are  willing  to 
undergo.  Three  hours  well  spent  will 
suffice  to  show  the  stranger  the  ^^ lions'" 
of  the  city,  and  these  he  will  have  at 
his  command  before  the  sailing  of  the 
steamer. 

l\inama  contains,  at  present,  a  popu- 
lation of  about  12,000.  Previously  lo 
1*744,  it  was  the  principal  entrepot  of 
the  Pacific  coast  trade,  and  continued 
so  until  its  decline,  together  with  that  of 
the  other  Spanish  possessions  in  America. 
"Within  the  last  few  years  its  trade  has 
greatly  improved,  and  rents  are  now  high 
and    buildings   in    great   demand.      Tho 


[Fic  "Voyage.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[ACAPULCO. 


iCxs,  of  Pcrico,  Flamenco^  and  Mnao^ 
lie  liarbor,  abound  in  fine  natural 
ngs,  and  are  well  worth  visiting;.  If 
)rtnnity  present,  the  stranger  should 
.  th  e  site  and  ruins  of  "  the  city  of 
am  a  the  ancient,"  destroyed  by  Sir 
ry  Morgan  in  1661,  which  arc  located 
it  six  miles  southeast  of  the  present 
A  A'isit  to  the  cathedral  in  new 
ima  will  well  repay  the  tourist.  Yisit- 
at  the  isthmus  will  do  well  to  report 
jselvcs  to  Captain  George  Butler, 
oned  at  Panama,  as  acting  resident 
His  attentions  to  stran- 


5.   Consul, 
desirous 


of 


seemg 


Panama,    make 


a  most  desirable  acquaintance, 
SE  Pacific  Voyage. — Safely  on  board 
steamer,  we  are  soon  under  way  for 
Fnuicisco,  steering  south,  past  the 
itifal  islands  of  Toboga  and  TohoquU- 
/hich  are  twelve  miles  from  the  city, 
the  former  is  quite  an  important 
1,  also  the  v/orks  of  the  English  Facilic 
ra  Navigation  Company,  v.'hose  ships 
to  Valparaiso  and  Callao  and  other 
3  of  the  west  coast  of  South  Ameri- 
Soon  after  we  pass  the  lovely 
ids  of  Otoque  and  Bana,  while  away 
he  southeast,  glimpses  of  the  Pearl 
id  groups  are  obtained.  Ninety  miles 
W.  from  the  anchorage.  Point  Mala 
issed,  and  the  next  morning  finds 
teaming  past  the  island  of  Quibo, 
ice  we  obtain  a  distant  and  last  view 
le  mountains  of  the  Isthmus, 
le  traveller  will  find  the  arrangements 
)oard  the  splendid  steamers  compos- 
the  mail  line  all  that  can  be  desired 
•oxnfort  and  convenience,  and  with  a 
sant  company,  which  there  usually 
ed  ahvays  is,  on  the  Pacific  side,  his 
ge  will  pass  rapidly  and  pleasantly 
igii.  On  the  sixth  day  from  Panama, 
it  Sacrijicios,  the  northv>'est  point  of 
jay  of  Tehuantepec  is  usually  sighted, 
i,  in  fine  weather,  the  traveller  has  a 
of  the  mountains  of  Mexico.  Two 
Ircd  and  ten  miles  farther  we  enter 
larbor  oi^  Acapidco.  Here  the  steam- 
usually  detained  fi-om  three  to  four 


•s,  for  the  purpose  of 


coaling,  when 


going 


opportunity   is    afforded    for 
ire,  of  v/hich  passengers,  so  disposed, 
avail  themselves. 

^e  harbor  of  Acapulco  is  one  of  the 
t  perfect  in  the  Vtorld,  protected  on 


all  sides  by  mountains,  which  rise  almost 
from  the  water's  edge.  We  gaze  with 
delight  upon  the  fine  groves  of  cocoas  and 
palms,  and  look  with  interest  upon  the 
faded  glories  of  this  once  hnportant 
place.  The  motley  population  of  Mexi- 
cans observed  in  the  streets,  which  are 
ahve  with  venders  of  all  sorts  of  fruits 
and  curiosities,  is  a  study  of  itself,  seen 
nowhere  save  in  a  Spanish  city.  At 
the  period  of  my  visit  (December,  1866), 
additional  interest  was  given  to  the  place 
by  the  presence  of  two  French  and  one 
United  States  men-of-war  which  lay  im- 
mediately off  the  town. 

The  place  is  similar  in  appearance  to 
all  other  Spanish-American  towns  or 
cities.  The  houses  are  low,  generally  of 
one  story,  with  thick  walls  and  high- 
peaked  roofs  covered  with  tiles  to  pro- 
tect the  inmates  from  the  intense  heat. 
The  plaza  or  public  square,  the  church, 
consulate  building,  and  one  or  two  of  the 
public  buildings,  will  repay  a  visit.  The 
fort  {Castle d^ Acapulco)^  an  old-fashioned 
fortification  which  guards  the  entrance 
to  the  harbor  a  little  east  of  the  town, 
and  commands  a  fine  view,  should  be 
visited.  In  a  grove  to  the  left  of  the 
town  are  the  graves  of  six  American 
consuls,  who  have  died  at  this  place. 

Resuming  our  voyage,  we  soon  lose 
sight  of  the  high  mountain  range  of  Mex- 
ico, the  last  land  seen,  until,  on  the  fourth 
day,  we  approach  the  southern  extremity 
of  Lower  California,  Cape  St.  Lucas. 
From  this  point  the  weather  suddenly 
becomes  cold;  and  as  we  approach  our 
destination  thick  clothing  comes  into  re- 
quisition. As  we  coast  northward  we 
sometimes  see  land,  perhaps  one  of  the 
barren  islands  off  the  coast  of  Lower 
California  ;  but,  as  the  atmosphere  along 
the  coast  is  generally  very  hazy,  especially 
during  the  summer  time,  we  find  but  little 
of  interest  until  we  approach  tlie  Golden 
Gate,  the  entrance  to  the  noble  bay  of 
San  Francisco. 

Upon  the  12th  day  from  Panama,  usu- 
allv  21st  or  22d  dav  from  New  York,  we 
see  the  mountains  of  the  Coast  IJance, 
among  which  Tamal-Pals  stands  preemi- 
nent, with  Monte  Diablo  in  the  distance, 
looming  up  from  the  waters;  and  soon 
after  we  near  Point  Lobos,  with  Point 
Bonita  on  our  left,  as  we  enter  the  Golden 

239 


San  Fraxcisco.] 


CALIFORNU. 


[San  Francisco. 


Gate ;  Fort  Point  is  soon  abreast,  and  we 
enter  the  bay  of  San  Francisco.  Two 
miles  farther  on  we  pass  the  Presidio,  and 
catcli  a  distant  view  of  the  we-^tern  and 
northern  portion  of  the  metropolis  of  the 
Pacific.  To  our  left,  Alcatraz  or  Pelican 
Island  rises  from  the  surface  of  the  bay, 
bristling  with  cannon,  and  surmounted  by 
a  lighthouse ;  while  beyond.  Angel  Island 
rises  to  tiie  height  of  900  feet.  Doubling 
Telegraph  Hill,  the  city  bursts  upon  our 
vision,  rising  picturesquely  from  the  bay, 
■which  extends  southward,  like  a  vast  in- 
land sea.  We  are  soon  alongside  of  the 
wharf,  and  thus  ends  our  pleasant  voyage 
of  three  weeks  from  New  York. 

The  following  official  table  of  distances 
to  different  points  on  the  coast  between 
San  Francisco  and  Panama  is  inserted  for 
the  guidance  of  travellers : 

Miles.  INIiles. 

From  San  Francisco  to  Monterey.  78 

To  San  Mi^cucl 181  ,    259 

'•  Corros  Island 442  TOl 

'•  Point  St.  Lazzcro 261  962 

"  Cape  San  Lucas 180  1,142 

"  Cape  Corrientes 274  1,416 

"  Manzanillo  (Colima) 102  1,518 

"   Aeapulco 290  1,808 

"   Point  Sacrificios 210  2.018 

"  Cape  Blanco 548  2.766 

"  P,unca  Point 168  2,984 

'•  Hicarita  Island 88  3.022 

"  Cape  Male 118  3.140 

'•  Panama 90  3,230 

Adding  to  this 3,230 

Across  the  Isthmus 49 

'       Aspinwall  to  New  York , 1,9S0 

Total  distance  from  San  Francisco  to 

iS'cw  York 5,259 

SAN  FHANCISCO. 

Hotels. — The  Lick  House,  Occulcnial 
Hotel,  and  Russ  House,  on  Montgome- 
ry Street ;  the  Cosrno])olilan,  on  Bush 
Street  ;  and  the  Continental,  on  Com- 
mercial, corner  of  Sansom  Street,  are 
all  good  houses,  centrally  located  on 
the  leading  thoroughfares  of  the  city. 
The  Lick  House  has  recently  been  en- 
larged and  refurnished,  and  is  now  one 
of  the  best  houses  on  the  Piieilic  coast. 
The  dining-room  is  unsurpassed  for  its 
design,  and  the  elegance  of  its  appoint- 
ments. The  Oc'f/t/rn/rt/ is  one  of  the  finest 
buildings  in  the  city,  and  under  the  able 
management  of  the  Messrs.  Leland  will 
alwiiys  sustain  its  reputation  fur  comfort 
and  good  f.ir(\  Charges  at  the  above 
210 


houses  range  from  $3  to  $3.50  (gold)  per 
day.  Furnished  apartments  are  every- 
wb.ere  abundant.  The  restaurants  are 
also  numerous.  That  attaclied  to  the 
Union  Club,  over  Wells,  Fargo  &  Co.'s 
bank,  is  the  most  desirable  for  strangers 
(members'  introduction,  and  card). 

San  Francisco,  the  principal  city  and  sea- 
port of  California,  and  the  pjetropolis  of  the 
Pacific  coast,  is  situated  upon  the  bay  of 
San  Francisco,  four  miles  fi  om  its  entrance 
to  the  sea,  and  lies  in  latitude  37°  48' 
north,  and  longitude  122°  30'  west,  from 
Greenwich.  The  Mission  (Dolores)  was 
founded  and  the  Presidio  established  in 
lY'FG.  The  first  tent  was  erected  by 
Captain  W.  A.  Richardson  in  1835,  and 
in  the  following  year  (1836)  the  first  house 
was  built  by  Jacob  P.  Lease,  on  the  cor- 
ner of  Clay  and  Dupont  Streels.  Up  to 
January,  1847,  the  city  bore  the  name  of 
Yerha  Bucna.  At  the  time  gold  was 
discovered,  in  January,  1848,  it  contained 
but  200  buildings  of  all  kinds,  and  a  pop- 
ulation of  800.  In  the  year  1860  the 
city  covered  an  area  of  8  or  9  square 
miles,  with  a  population  of  some  65,000. 
The  population  now  numbers  115,000. 

Among  the  principal  buildings  are  the 
City  Hall,  fronting  upon  the  Plaza  or 
Portsmouth  Square ;  the  United  Slates 
Cusiom-House  and  Fost-Office,  corner  of 
Washiniiton  and  Batterv  Streets :  the 
United  States  MariJie  Hospital,  Pincon 
Point ;  the  Occidental,  Lick,  and  Cosmo- 
politan Holds,  the  new  Merchants''  Ex- 
change and  Bank  of  California,  on  Cali- 
fornia Street,  near  Montgomery,  and 
many  fine  structures  of  lesser  note,  as  the 
Cnstoni-Hoxsc  Block,  corner  of  Sansom 
and  Sacramento  Streets  ;  Mercantile  Li- 
brari/  Building,  corner  of  Bush  and 
Montgomerv  Streets :  United  States  Dis- 
triet  Court  Building,  corner  of  Wasliing- 
ton  and  Battery  Streets  ;  Masonic  Hall, 
junction  of  Post,  Market,  and  Montgomery 
Streets;  Odd- Fellows''  Hall,  corner  of 
Bush  and  Kearney  Streets.  The  Mint, 
which  occupies  an  insignificant  and  rather 
gloomy-looking  building  on  Commercial 
Street,  is  Nvell  worth  visiting.  Applica- 
tions should  be  made  to  Mr.  Frank  B. 
II arte,  the  secretary.  The  site  for  a  new 
mint  has  just  been  purchased  by  the  Gov- 
ernment. The  Lincoln  School,  on  Fifth, 
near  Market  Street,  is  a  handsome  brick 


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SAN  FRMJeiSCO 

CAHiJDf'  OMJSrnA 
1866. 


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I 


San  Francisco.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[San  Francisco. 


building  in  the  Eenai?sance  style,  and 
others  that  would  compare  favorabl}'  with 
any  buildings  to  be  found  m  the  large 
Eastern  cities. 

Montuomery  Street,  the  leading  thor- 
cughfare,  is  a  handsome  street,  and  is 
usually  thronged  with  pedestrians.  On 
Cal'fbrnia  Street  the  principal  banks,  and 
brokers'  and  insurance  oflices  are  located. 

The  principal  churches  are  :  I^irst  Pres- 
byterian Churchy  Stockton  Street,  be- 
tween Clay  and  Washington ;  Calvary 
Presbyterian  Clmreh,  Bush  Street,  be- 
tween Montgomery  and  Sansom  ;  Ptrst 
Papiist  Church,  Washington  Street,  be- 
tween Dupont  and  Stockton  ;  Pirst  Con- 
grecfational  Church,  corner  of  Dupont 
and  California  Streets ;  Grace  Cathedral 
Church,  corner  of  Stockton  and  California 
Streets;  Church  of  the  Advent,  Mission 
Street,  below  Second ;  First  Unitarian 
Church,  Geary,  near  Stockton;  M.  P. 
Church,  Powell  Street,  between  Washing- 
ton and  Jackson ;  St.  Mary''s  Cathedrcd, 
corner  of  Dupont  and  California  Streets  ; 
St.  Francis  Church,  Vallejo  Street,  be- 
tween Dupont  and  Stockton,  St.  Ignatius 
Church  and  College,  on  Market  Street,  and 
many  other  fine  ones  of  less  prominence. 
Those  best  worthy  a  visit  are  Grace  and  St. 
Mciry\^  Catheeb'als,  and  Trinity  (building), 
and  St.  Francis  Churches.  The  corner- 
stone of  Gi-aee  was  laid  May,  18G0.  Its 
dimensions  are  135  feet  by  62  feet,  and  66 
feet  high.  St.  Mary''s  is  the  largest  and 
most  costly  church  edifice  in  the  city.  It 
was  commenced  July  1*7,  1853,  and  dedi- 
cated December  25,  1854.  It  is  in  the 
Gothic  style  of  architecture,  and  has  seats 
for  upward  of  1,200  persons.  It  has  cost 
thus  far  $175,000.  The  Hebrew  syna- 
gogue of  Emana  El,  on  Sutter  Street,  be- 
tween Stockton  and  Powell,  should  be  vis- 
ited. It  occupies  a  commanding  site,  and 
is  in  itself  an  imposing  structuie.  The 
auditorium  is  elegantly  finished,  and  has 
accommodation  for  1,200  persons.  Many 
cf  the  school  buildings  are  also  commo- 
dious and  substantial  structures. 

The  principal  places  of  amusement 
are:  3Taguire's  0])era-House,  Washington 
Street,  near  Montgomery  ;  Academy  of 
Music,  Pine,  between  Montgomery  and 
Sansom  Streets ;  3Ietropolitan  Thccctre, 
'719  Montgomery  Street ;  Piatt's  NewMusic 
Hall,  Montgomery  Street,  near  tlie  corner 
11 


of  Bush,  and  many  others  of  less  note. 
The  jVercantile  Pibrary  Association,  cor- 
ner of  Montgomery  and  Bush  Streets,  has 
a  collection  of  upward  of  25,000  volumes. 
Reading  and  chess  rooms  attached.  A 
commodious  structure,  intended  for  the 
purpose  of  the  library,  is  now  in  course 
of  construe! ion,  on  Bush  Street,  opposite 
the  Cosmopolitan  Hotel. 

A  visit  to  the  Mission,  three  miles 
southwest  of  the  city,  will  interest  the 
stranger.  Tlie  Market  Street  railroad 
cars  start  for  that  point  each  half  hour  in 
the  day.  Lines  of  omnibuses  are  running 
over  the  plank  road  to  the  same  place  by 
a  more  circuitous  route,  passing  through 
"The  Willows,"  a  pleasant  suburban  re- 
treat, on  their  way.  Many  fine  gardens 
are  in  the  vicinity.  The  race-course  is  a 
mile  beyond.  The  Protestant  Orphan 
Asylum  is  a  fine  building  half  a  mile  north. 
The  Mission  itself  is  an  object  of  much 
interest.  It  is  an  adobe  building  of  the  old 
Spanish  style,  built  in  1*776.  Adjoining 
is  the  cemetery,  with  its  well-worn  paths 
and  fantastic  monuments.  Among  the 
cemeteries,  that  of  Pone  Mountain  is  best 
worthy  a  visit. 

Pone  Mountain  Cemetery. — This  pretty 
ground  is  1^  miles  v-^est  of  the  principal 
hotels,  and  is  reached  by  street  cars.  It 
^\as  dedicated  May  30,  1854.  The  first 
interment  was  made  June  2,  1854.  It 
then  consisted  of  160  acres,  which  was 
enlarged  to  its  present  size  in  1862.  Up- 
ward of  12,000  interments  have  already 
been  made.  Large  numbers  of  the 
Chinese  have  been  placed  in  vaults  in 
this  cemetery,  previous  to  their  removal 
to  China.  Among  the  monuments,  that 
erected  to  Senator  Broderick,  just  com- 
pleted from  a  design  by  WiUiam  Craine, 
at  an  expense  of  |;15,000  is  the  most  note- 
worthy. Ealston's,  modelled  after  the 
Parthevion  at  Rome,  and  Luning's,  are 
also  fine  structures. 

The  great  feature  of  Pone  Mountain  is 
its  unrivalled  outlook,  embracing  fine 
bird's-eye  views  of  the  ocean,  bay,  and 
city.  Mount  Diablo,  and  (he  Coast  Range. 
The  quarries  in  the  immediate  neighbor- 
hood supply  abundance  of  building  mate- 
rial. 

A  line  of  omnibuses  also  runs  to  the 
Presidio,  Avhich  is  situated  some  three 
miles  toward  the    Golden    Gate;  a  mile 

241 


San  Francisco.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[San  Francisco. 


fartlier  is  Fort  Pointy  so  called  from  the 
fortification  which  protects  the  entrance 
to  the  harbor.  Following  the  shore  we 
pass  Point  Lobos  and  Seal  Rock  House,  3 
miles,  and  the  same  distance  farther  reach 
the  Cliff  House,  situated  on  a  little  arm 
of  the  sea.  From  this  point,  returning  to 
the  city,  8  miles'  distant,  the  road  winds 
through  and  over  the  San  Bruno  Hills, 
from  whose  peaks — 1,200  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea — a  fine  view  of  the  bay  on 
one  side,  and  of  the  ocean  on  the  other,  is 
to  be  had.  The  vie>v  from  Telegraph  Hill, 
290  feet  high,  at  the  northern  extremity 
of  the  city,  is  unsurpassed.  This  view 
embraces  the  city,  stretching  along  the 
semi-amphitheatre  of  hills,  and  overflow- 
ing the  depressions  toward  the  Presidio 
on  the  west  and  the  Mission  on  the  south. 
both  arms  and  the  entrance  to  the  bay, 
including  the  island  of  Alcatraz,  vv'hich  is 
fortified.  Angel  Island,  over  700  feet  in 
height,  and  Yerha  Buena  (Goat  Island), 
the  mountains  of  Marin  County  on  the 
north,  Avith  the  peak  of  Tamal  Pais, 
2, GOO  feet  high  ;  and  the  Contra  Costa 
Range  on  the  east,  with  Monte  Diablo 
rising  in  the  background  to  a  height  oi 
3,700  feet.  The  summits  of  Russian  and 
Rincon  Hills,  and  the  Shot  Tov^^er,  200 
feet  high,  on  the  corner  of  Shelby  and 
First  Streets,  also  afiford  fine  views. 

A  ferry-boat  (corner  Pacific  and  Davis 
Streets)  connects  the  city  with  Oakland 
every  hour.  Oakland  lies  across  the  bay, 
8  miles  distant,  and  contains  5,000  in- 
habitants and  many  fine  residences.  Tbe 
College  of  California  and  the  Pacific 
Female  College,  both  flourishing  institu- 
tions, are  located  here. 

From  Oakland  stages  leave  daily  for 
Somersville  (35  miles),  via  Walnut  Creek 
and  Clayton.  The  Alameda  ferry,  from 
Pacific  Street  wharf,  I'uns  four  times 
daily  to  Alameda,  whence  there  is  con- 
nection via  San  Leaudro  with  Ilayward's 
and  Warm  Springs.  Delightful  trips  are 
made  in  the  summer  to  the  several  points 
and  objects  of  interest  on  this  road. 
The  old  Spanish  Mission  of  San  Jose  in 
Alameda  County  is  worth  visiting. 

From  San  Francisco  railway  and  steam- 
ship lines  diverge  to  all  parts  of  the  in- 
terior, and  the  coast  north  and  south. 
Steamers  leave  daily  for  various  points  on 
the  bay — Petaluma,  Sonoma,  Napa,  Sui- 
242 


sun,  etc.,  north ;  and  for  Alviso,  connect- 
ing with  San  Jose  bv  sta2:e,  south — all 
connecting  with  stages  for  the  interior. 
Street  cars  afford  easy  access  to  all  parts 
of  the  city  and  suburbs. 

The  Chinese  quarter  of  the  city,  espe- 
cially the  Chinese  temples.  Josh  and  To- 
Kahn,  the  former  in  Dupont  Alley  and 
the  latter  on  Pine  Street,  near  Dupont, 
should  not  be  omitted  by  the  stranger.  The 
social  life  of  the  Chinese  is  most  interest- 
ing, and  it  can  be  studied  in  San  Francis- 
co to  great  advantage,  as  there  are  nearly 
10,000  of  them  there  congregated.  Their 
principal  resorts  are  in  Sacramento,  Stock- 
ton, Dupont,  Commercial,  and  Washing- 
ton Streets,  but  indeed  no  street  in  San 
Francisco  is  without  them.  The  British 
Consulate  is  at  428  California  Street ;  W 
L.  Booker,  Consul. 

Distances  from  San  Francisco  to 
Various  Points. — To  Fort  Point,  four 
miles,  by  omnibus  ;  four  trips  a  day.  To 
Zone  Mountain,  three  miles,  by  street  rail- 
way. To  Seal  Pocls,  six  miles,  by  cars  and 
omnibus  ;  two  trips  a  day.  To  Mission 
Dolores,  bystreet  railways  ;  Ocean  House, 
eight  miles.  To  San  Mateo,  20  miles,  by 
railroad.  To  Crystal  Springs,  23  miles, 
by  railroad  and  stage.  To  Spanishtown, 
32  miles,  and  to  Half  Moon  Bay  (Pes- 
cadero),  48  miles,  via  San  Mateo.  To 
Redwood  City,  30  miles,  by  railroad  and 
stage.  To  Mountain  View,  38  miles,  by 
railroad.  To  Santa  Clara,  4*7  miles,  by 
railroad.  To  San  Jose,  50  miles,  by  rail- 
road, or  by  steamer  and  stage,  54  miles. 
To  Alviso,  46  miles,  by  steamer,  daily. 
To  New  Almaden  Quicksilver  Mines,  07 
miles,  by  steamer  and  stage,  or  by  rail- 
way and  stage,  04.  To  Santa  Cruz,  78 
miles,  by  railway  and  stage.  To  Oak- 
land, 8  miles,  by  ferry  and  railway  ;  six 
trips  a  day.  To  Alameda,  11  miles,  by 
steamer;  three  trips  a  day.  To  Hay- 
ward's,  25  miles,  by  steamer;  tlireo  ^rips 
a  day.  To  San  Leandro,  15  miles,  by 
steamer  and  railway.  To  Mission  San 
Jose,  34  miles,  by  steamer,  railway,  and 
stage.  To  Warm  Springs,  37  miles,  by 
Alameda  ferry.  To  Benicia,  30  miles ; 
steamer  leaves  at  4  p.  Ji.  daily.  To  Sa- 
cramento, 117  miles  ;  steamer  leaves  at 
4  p.  M.  daily.  To  Stockton,  117  miles  ; 
steamer  leaves  at  4  p.  m.  daily.  To  Mar- 
tinez, 33  miles,  by  steamer.    To  Pacheco, 


Route  L] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Route  I. 


38  miles,  by  steamer  and  stage.  To 
Mount  Diablo  Cool  Mines,  44  miles,  by 
stean  er  and  str.ge.  To  Suisun,  50  miles 
by  steamer,  or  54  by  steamer  ami  staa,e. 
To  Vallejo,  28  miles.  To  Jlare  Island, 
SY  miles.  To  Napa  City,  50  miles.  To 
White  Sul;^bur  Springs,  67  miles,  by 
st.ige  IVom  Napa.  To  G  yser  Springs, 
118  miles,  by  stage  from  Napa.  To  So- 
noma, 52  miles,  by  steamer,  tri-weekly. 
To  Petaluma,  48  miles,  by  steamer,  daily. 
To  Ilealdsburg,  80  miles,  by  stage  daily 
frojn  Petaluma.  To  San  Quentin,  12 
miles,  by  steamer.  To  Farallone  Islands, 
20  miles. 


TOURS    TO  THE   INTEHIOS   OF 
CALIFOBNIA. 

To   the   YoSemite  Valley,  Hie  Geysers,  and 
the  Big   Trees. 

IIOUTE  I, 

FROM   SAN   FEAN-CISCO    TO    8ACBA- 
MENTO,    MARYSVILLE,    ETC. 

From  San  Francisco,  via  Sacramento,  to 
Marysville,  up  through  the  valley  of  the 
Sacramento  to  the  Oregon  line ;  thence 
through  the  mining  regions  of  the  east- 
ern tributaries  of  the  Sacramento  and 
San  Joaquin  Rivers,  including,  if  time  per- 
mit, a  run  over  the  Sierras,  down  the 
Truckee,  into  Carson  Yalley ;  returning 
from  the  southern  mines,  via  Stockton,  to 
San  Francisco ;  thence  proceeding,  via 
.San  Jose,  through  the  Santa  Clara  valley 
to  Visalia  and  Los  Angeles,  through  the 
southern  part  of  the  State,  returning  by 
the  ocean  from  San  Diego,  the  most 
southern  port,  touching  at  Santa  Bar- 
bara, Monterey,  etc.,  and  finally  taking  a 
glimpse  at  the  more  northern  sections 
along  the  coast,  and  a  voyage  to  Oregon. 
By  this  arrangement,  making  an  almost 
continuous  tour  of  the  State,  all  the  prin- 
cipal objects  of  interest,  including  the 
famous  Yo-Scmite,  the  Geysers,  and  Big 
Trees,  can  be  seen  without  loss  of  time, 
or  unnecessary  travel  or  expense.  Those 
who  are  so  fortunate  as  to  have  both 
time  and  means  at  their  disposal,  can  of 
course  see  much  more  than  even  this  ex- 
tended trip  will  affbi'd  them ;  but  as  my 
object  is  to  give  essential  information  to 


the  largest  number  of  readers,  in  the 
briefest  possible  compass,  I  shall,  I  think, 
accomplish  it  most  satisfactorily  by  con- 
fining my  chapter  on  Calilbrnia  to  the 
limits  above  described.  (The  distances 
are  computed  by  the  usually  travelled 
routes,  and,  when  not  officially  given, 
Vv'ill  be  found  approximately  correct.) 

g'ioiB. — Leaving  Broadway  ^Yharf,  San 
J-'rancisco,  by  4  o'clock  afternoon  steam- 
er for  Sacramento,  we  proceed  northward 
toward  Angel  Island  (batteries  and  govern- 
ment works),  which  v^e  pass  in  the  bay, 
on  the  right,  5  miles  from  the  wharf.  Soon 
after  we  sight  Red  Rock,  formerly  Treasure 
Rock,  and  enter  the  bay  of  San  Pablo, 
through  the  straits  of  the  same  name,  at  a 
distance  of  about  15  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco. West  of  Red  Rock  lie  the  beauti- 
ful little  villages  of  San  Quentin  and  San 
Rafael.  They  are  5  miles  apart,  and  are 
connected  by  stage.  The  former  contains 
the  state-prison  buildings. 

The  Bay  of  San  Pablo  is  a  large  and 
beautiful  sheet  of  water,  some  15  miles 
wide  and  20  miles  long,  surrounded  by 
picturesque  ranges  of  mountains.  The 
view  looking  westward  is  picturesquely 
fine ;  to  the  northward  lie  the  fertile  valleys 
of  Petaluma,  Sonoma,  and  Napa,  bounded 
by  the  high  mountains  of  the  Coast 
Range,  bathed  in  the  warm  summer  haze 
so  peculiar  to  California. 

At  the  head  of  Napa  valley  are  warm 
sulphur  springs,  which  are  a  favorite  place 
of  resort,  and  offer  fine  accommodations 
to  the  visitor.  Stages  at  Sonoma  and 
Petaluma  connect  with  Ilealdsburg,  in 
the  Russian  River  vallc}',  one  of  the 
most  fertile  sections  of  the  State. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Mt.  Putas,  or  Geyser 
Peak,  about  40  miles  north  of  Petaluma, 
are  the  hot  steam  springs  called  the 
Geysers.  The  best  means  of  reaching 
them  is  through  Healdsburg.  The  pictur- 
esque scenery,  deep  ravines,  towering 
mountains,  and  the  springs — second  only 
to  the  far-fiimed  Geysers  of  Iceland — in- 
vest tliis  section  with  an  interest  unsur- 
passed.    (See  Geyser  Springs.) 

Still  to  the  north  the  picturesque  region 
of  Clear  Lake  amply  repays  the  tourist 
by  its  wild  beauty  and  the  fine  hunting 
and  fishing  which  the  surrounding  region 
and  waters  afford. 

243 


Benicia.] 


CALIFORXIA. 


[Sacramento. 


Resuming  our  voyage  through  San 
Pablo  Bay,  we  pas.s  Mare  Island  Navy 
Yard  and  Vallgo  (railroad  from  Vallejo 
to  Marysville),  where  the  United  States 
Government  have  established  a  dry  dock 
and  naval  station,  and  soon  after  enter  the 
Straits  of  Carquinez,  which  connect  the 
bav  of  San  Pablo  with  the  bay  of  Suisun. 
'FBie  Straits  of  C!ai*<iMi8iez. 
— These  straits  are  about  8  miles  in 
length,  and  generally  three-fourths  of  a 
mile  wide. 

ISeaiicia. — "Benicia,  the  former  cap- 
ital of  the  State,  is  situated  upon  the  north 
side  of  and  near  the  entrance  to  Suisun 
Bay,  30  miles  from  San  Francisco.  The 
California  Steam  Navigation  Company's 
boat  plies  tri-weekly,  extending  her  trip 
to  Suisun.  Vessels  of  the  largest  size  can 
reach  this  point.  The  steamers  of  the  Pa- 
cific Mail  Steamship  line  are  refitted  at  this 
place.  Their  extensive  founderyand  ma- 
chine-shop is  the  most  important  building 
in  the  place.  The  headquarters  of  the 
United  States  Army  are  also  located  here. 
The  view  as  we  approach  Benicia  is  grand. 
Looking  southeast,  Monte  Diablo,  the 
most  remarkable  peak  of  the  Coast 
Range,  is  seen  rising  to  the  height  of 
3,'790  feet,  while  the  little  village  of 
Martinez,  with  its  groves  of  evergreen 
oaks,  surrounded  by  hills,  is  a  fine  feature 
in  the  scene. 

'fl."'3ie  Bay  of  giiistiii. — We 
now  enter  the  bay  of  Suisrm,  another 
arm  or  continuation  of  the  great  bay  of 
San  Francisco ;  here  the  waters  of  the 
SdcraraenLO  and  San  Joaquin  unite,  the 
former  coming  in  from  the  north,  and 
the  latter  from  the  south.  The  growing 
village  of  Suisun  has  become  the  outlet 
ol"  a  rich  agricultural  region  on  ac- 
count of  being  connected  with  the  north 
side  of  this  bay  by  means  of  a  navigable 
slough. 

SacraiiiOBito  Kiver. — Passing 
through  tiie  bay,  we  soon  enter  the  mouth 
of  the  Sacramento  River,  about  45  miles 
from  San  Francisco.  Much  of  the  land 
a<lioininii  this  l>ay  and  the  Sacramento 
and  San  Joaquin  Rivers  is  marshy,  cov- 
ered with  tides,  a  kind  of  bulrush.  Abun- 
dance of  fine  salmon  are  caught  in  this 
river.  Proceeding  toward  Sacramento,  we 
pass  a  low  range  of  hills  to  the  left.  Far- 
ther on  the  banks  are  low  and  the  country 
244 


is  marshy.  Beyond  trees  occur,  and  the 
I'iver  presents  a  more  beautiful  appear- 
ance. Sometimes  in  autumn  the  dry  tules 
are  on  fire  for  miles,  presenting  a  magnifi- 
cent appearance  to  the  passenger  on  the 
steamer.  In  9  hours  we  arrive  at  Sacra- 
mento, the  capital  of  the  State,  which  is 
125  miles  from  San  Francisco. 

Sacraiiieiato.  —  Hotels,  Golden 
Eagle,  and  Toll's,  on  K  Street ;  Orleans, 
Second  Street,  between  J  and  K. 

Sacramento,  the  capital  and  second 
commercial  city  of  the  State,  is  situated 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Sacramento  and 
American  Rivers,  125  miles  from  San 
Francisco  by  water,  contains  about  10,000 
inhabitants,  and  is  the  centre  of  travel 
for  the  northern  mines  of  California, 
and  the  Great  Overland  line  from  the 
Missouri  to   the  Pacific.     It  was  found- 


ed   in   the 


sprmg 


of    1849,    near    the 


site  of  Sutter's  Fort,  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  American  River,  and  was  ori<j;;inal- 
ly  called  ISfucva  Helvetia.  It  contains 
many  fine  buildings  put  up  in  the  most 
substantial  manner  ;  and  although  it  suf- 
fered, like  San  Francisco,  from  fires,  in 
the  early  period  of  its  growth,  and  more 
recently  from  flood,  it  has  steadily  im- 
proved, and  is  now  the  most  important 
city  in  the  interior.  It  is  3  miles  in  ex- 
tent, and  is  divided  into  four  wards.  It 
is  regulaHy  laid  out,  the  streets  running 
parellel  with  the  river,  and  numbered  and 
lettered  in  regular  succession.  The  prin- 
cipal commercial  streets  are  embraced 
within  an  area  formed  by  First  and  Sixth, 
and  II  and  L  Streets.  The  houses  and 
stores  within  these  limits  are  principally 
of  brick.  Great  damage  was  caused  by 
the  flood  of  1861-62,  and  an  artificial  wall 
has  been  built  round  the  American  River. 
4  feet  above  high  water  in  the  Sacramento 
River,  at  a  cost  of  $250,000.  Indeed, 
the  whole  city  has  been  raised  10  feet 
above  its  former  level.  The  estimated 
value  of  real  and  personal  property  in  the 
city  is  about  $12,000,000.  The  new 
Capitol,  when  completed,  will  be  the 
finest  edifice  in  the  West,  and,  if  the 
original  plan  is  adhered  to,  one  of  the 
most  commodious  and  substantial  struc- 
tures of  its  kind  in  the  Union.  The  base- 
ment is  of  granite,  from  the  Rocklin 
quarries.  The  Coarl-House  is  at  present 
occupied    for  legislative  purposes.     The 


Sacjramento.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Marysville, 


State  Agricultural  Pavilion  is  one  of  the 
iiiit'St  buildings  in  California.  It  was 
erected  in  1859,  by  the  people  of  the  city, 
for  the  Fairs  of  the  State  Agricultural 
Society,  which  are  held  annually,  in  Sep- 
tember. In  style  it  approaches  the  lio- 
nianesque.  The  main  hall  is  said  to  be 
the  largest  clear  chamber  in  the  United 
States,  being  100  by  120  feet.  The 
central  chandelier  contains  400  burn- 
ers. The  affairs  of  the  Society  are  now 
in  the  hands  of  the  State  Board  of  Agri- 
culture. The  Masonic  Hall^  southwest 
corner  of  K  and  Sixth  Streets,  is  also  a 
commodious  apartment.  The  corner- 
stone was  laid  June  24,  1SG5,  and  the 
hall  formally  opened  December  12th  of 
the  same  year.  The  first  and  second  stories 
are  occupied  by  the  county  courts.  The 
whole  cost  of  the  edifice  and  lot  was 
$35,000. 

Among  the  benevolent  institutions 
worthy  of  note,  may  be  mentioned  the 
Howard^  estabhshed  October,  1857.  The 
Society's  rooms  are  on  the  west  side  of 
Sixth,  between  II  and  I  Streets.  For  the 
year  ending  October  1,  1865,  upward 
of  1,000  persons  were  relieved  by  this 
mstitution.  The  County  Hospital,  on  L, 
between  Tenth  and  Eleventh  Streets, 
should  be  visited.  The  city  contains  12 
churches,  most  prominent  among  which 
are  the  Conc/rcgatianist  (J.  E.  Dwindle, 
D.  D.),  on  Sixth  Street,  and  the  Eomari 
Catholic  (St.  Rose),  at  the  intersection 
of  K  and  Seventh  Streets.  The  City 
Cemetery  is  a  pleasant  enclosure  of  10 
acres,  on  Tenth  Street,  south  of  Y  Street. 
It  was  located  in  1850  and  laid  out  in 
1856.  The  gateway  was  added  in  1858, 
at  a  cost  of  $3,000.  It  contains  the 
State,  Firemen's,  Masonic,  Odd-Fellows', 
Pioneers',  and  upward  of  500  family  plots. 
The  Neiv  Helvetia  Cemetery,  long  known 
as  the  Sutter's  Fort  Burying-Ground,  is 
also  worthy  a  visit.  It  was  the  earliest 
burying-place  near  the  present  city,  hav- 
ing been  selected  in  1849. 

The  schools  of  the  city  are  numerous 
and  flourishing.  The  first  public  school 
was  opened  Februarj^,  1854.  The  system 
now  embraces  a  high  school,  a  grammar 
school,  and  11  primary  and  intermediate 
schools,  with  an  aggregate  attendance  in 
1865  of  3,537  pupils.  The  private  schools 
number   ten,    including   the   Sacramento 


College,  a  Commercial  Academy,  and  three 
Seminccrics  for  young  ladies.  There  are 
three  libraries,  containing  nearly  30,000 
volumes.  The  State  Library,  organized 
April  9,  1850,  has  its  rooms  in  the  llast- 
ing's  Block,  southwest  corner  of  J  and 
Second  Streets.  Its  collection  numbers 
20,000.  The  Sacramento  and  Odd-Fel- 
lovt's'  Libraries  are  in  a  flourishing  condi- 
tion. 

The  principal  lines  of  travel  radia- 
ting to  and  from  Sacramento  are  the 
Central  Pacific  Railroad,  completed  93 
miles  to  Cisco,  where  it  connects  with  the 
Overland  Stages  to  Virginia  City,  Austin, 
and  other  towns  in  Nevada  and  the  East. 
The  Sacramento  Valley  Railroad  to  Folsom 
and  Shingle  Springs,  where  it  communi- 
cates with  stages  to  Placerville,  towns 
in  Nevada,  and  the  East.  Steamers 
run  daily  to  San  Francisco,  Marys- 
ville, and  all  point-5  on  the  upper  Sa- 
cramento and  Feather  Rivers.  Stages 
leave  daily  for  Napa,  Suisun,  Rockville, 
Sonoma,  Healdsburg,  Stockton,  and  all  the 
principal  interior  towns  throughout  the 
northern  part  of  the  State.  Stages  for 
Idaho,  via  Hunter's  Station  on  the  Pacific 
Railroad.  Principal  stage-oflices  at  the 
corner  of  First  and  K  Streets  and  at  the 
Golden  Eagle  Hotel. 

Leaving  Sacramento,  and  proceeding 
on  our  jonrney  through  the  great  valley 
of  the  Sacramento,  we  reach  Marysville 
by  stage  or  steamer,  distant  by  land  44 
miles,  and  by  water  64  miles. 

Msirys^-ille,  next  to  Sacramento, 
is  the  most  important  of  the  northern 
interior  towns  of  California,  and  contains 
about  6,000  inhabitants.  It  is  finely  lo- 
cated near  the  confluence  of  the  Feather 
and  Yuba  Rivers,  90  miles  from  Sacra- 
mento ;  accessible  at  all  times  by  steam- 
er from  either  San  Francisco  or  Sacra- 
mento. It  commands  much  of  the  trade 
with  the  rich  mining  districts  situated 
upon  the  Feather  and  Yuba  Rivers,  hav- 
ing a  fertile  agricultural  region  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity.  Of  late  years  it  has 
been  rather  on  the  decline,  and  is  now 
rated  as  the  fomth  city  of  the  State.  It 
is  well  built,  giving  the  impi^tssion  to  the 
traveller  who  sees  it  for  the  first  time 
from  the  steamboat-landing,  of  a  sub- 
stantial city,  mostly  built  of  brick.    There 


a    fine 


agricultural 


region 
245 


around 


Orotii.le.] 


CALIFORXIA. 


[Mount  Shasta. 


it,  mostly  comprised  in  the  Yuba  and 
Feather  River  bottoms.  Briggs's  fruit 
randies,  the  most  extensive  orchards  in 
the  State,  perhaps  in  the  world,  are  near 
this  city.  It  has  connection  northward, 
via  the  California  Northern  Railvjaif^ 
with  Orovihe,  and  by  stage  with  North 
San  Juan  (37  miles),  and  French  Corral 
(43  miles). 

'File  Marysville  llBittcs.— 
From  Marysville  a  fine  view  is  obtained 
of  the  isolated  chain  of  mountains  known 
as  the  Marifsville  Buttes.  They  rise  from 
the  plain  of  the  Sacramento  valley  to  the 
height  of  1,200  feet,  and  extend  for  some 
eight  miles  in  length,  forming  a  remark- 
able feature  in  the  Valley  of  the  Sacra- 
mento. They  embrace  three  principal 
peaks  and  many  subordinate  ones,  and 
from  the  central,  elevated,  broken,  rocky 
mass,  thei'e  run  off  spurs  in  all  directions, 
forming  valleys  between  them.  It  is 
about  30  miles  around  the  Buttes.  The 
view  from  the  summit,  which  is  easily  ac- 
cessible, is  superb. 

Daily  lines  of  stages  leave  Marysville 
t  or  all  the  mining  localities  to  the  north 
and  east. 

Orovillc, — IIoTEL,  St.  Nicholas. — 
Journeying  north,  we  leave  Marysviiie  by 
the  California  Northern  Railroad  for 
Oroville,  distant  26  miles.  Oroville  is 
situated  at  the  base  of  the  foot-hills  upon 
the  main  Feather  River,  and  is  a  mining 
town  of  considerable  importance,  while  a 
rich  agricultural  region  extends  to  the 
north  and  west.  It  is  the  county  seat  of 
Butte  County,  and  contains  about  2,500 
inhabitants.  At  Oroville  connection  is 
made  with  the  stages  of  the  California 
Stage  Com.pann  for  Shasta,  and  the 
northern  mines.  La  Parte,  Quincy,  Indian 
Valley,  and  Susanville. 

l£c<l  ISluir. — Travelling  through  a 
rich  agricultural  region,  over  good  roads, 
we  cross  tlie  Sacramento  River  at  Tehama, 
50  miles  north  of  Oroville,  and,  proceed- 
ing up  the  western  bank  of  that  stream 
14  miles,  we  reach  Bed  Blulf',  a  village 
of  some  1,000  inliabitants,  tlie  county 
seat  of  Tehama  County,  and  situated  at 
the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Sacramento 
River.  This  place  is  the  centre  of  trade 
for  the  more  northern  mines  of  Califor- 
nia ;  goods  reaching  here  from  San  Fran- 
cisco by  the  river  to  Colusa  on  the  Sacra- 
246 


mento,  75  miles  below,  or  when  the  water 
is  in  a  good  stage,  being  shipped  directly 
to  this  place.  A  steamer  leaves  San  Fran- 
cisco every  Saturday  morning  for  Red 
Bluff;  distance,  275  miles. 

Still  journeying  northward,  we  again 
take  stage  for  Shasta  City,  distant  from 
Marysviiie  132  miles.  The  road  is  gen- 
erally good,  and  almost  a  perfect  level 
the  entire  distance ;  passing  through  the 
centre  of  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento, 
crossing  the  Sacramento  River  at  Te- 
hama, the  journey  is  made  in  two  days, 
stopping  over  one  night  on  tlie  road. 

As  the  traveller  pursues  his  journey 
from  Oroville  toward  the  Oregon  line, 
many  fine  farms  or  ranches  are  passed — 
Bidwell's  at  Chico,  Neal's,  and  Lassen's 
being  the  oldest  and  best  known,  com- 
manding many  fine  A'iews  of  the  moun- 
tains cf  the  Coast  Range,  some  of  whose 
peaks  rival  those  of  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
especially  Mount  St.  Helen,  Mount  Linn, 
and  Mount  St.  John,  which  are  each  some 
7,000  to  9,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  To  the  eastward,  on  our  right,  the 
snow-capped  peaks  of  tlie  Sierra  Nevada 
rise  gleaming  in  the  sunshine. 

Beyond  Bed  Blajfs  we  obtain  a  fine 
view  of  the  Basscn  Buttes.,  among  the 
most  prominent  peaks  of  the  Sierras. 
Beyond  Cottonwood  Creek,  near  Major 
Reading's  ranch,  we  get  a  splendid 
view  of  Mount  Shasta,  the  highest  moun- 
tain  in  Cahforuia,  a  vast  cone  of  snow 
rismg  to  the  height  of  15,000  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  forming  a  magnificent 
landmark  at  the  head  of  the  Sacramento 
vallt'V. 

jtloiiittt  SSaastsa,  or  Xclias4«, 
not  only  the  most  striking  topographical 
feature  of  northern  California,  but  the 
largest  and  grandest  peak  of  the  Cascade 
and  Sierra  Nevada  ranges,  stands  alone, 
at  the  southern  end  of  Shasta  Valley,  in 
latitude  41^  30'  north,  longitude  about 
122^  west.  In  approaching  it  from  the 
north  and  south,  there  is  a  gradual  in- 
crease in  the  elevation  of  llie  country  for 
about  50  miles.  The  region  near  the 
base  itself  thus  attains  an  altitude  of 
3,500  feet  a])0ve  the  sea,  and  forms  a 
vast  pedestal  tor  the  Giant  Butte. 

Until  the  visit  of  Colonel  Fremont,  in 
1843,  the  summit  of  Shasta  had  generally 
been  deemed  iiiaccessible. 


Mount  Shasta.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Shasta. 


"  Aspiring  to  the  cade's  cloiidless  heijjht, 
No  human  foot  hath  stained  its  snowy  side, 
Nor  human  biealh  has  dimmed  the  icy  mirror 
"Which  it  holds  unto  the  moon,  and  stars,  and 

sovereign 
Sun.      We  may  not  grow  familiar  with  the 

secrets 
Of  its  lioary  top,  whereon  the  Genius 
Oi  that  mountain  builds  his  glorious  throne  ! "  * 

"  TIic  Tiew  of  the  mountain  from 
Shasta  plains  is  very  grand.  AVith  no  in- 
tervening mountains  to  obstruct  the  pros- 
pect, the  base  is  seen  resting  among 
dense,  evergreen  forests  ;  higher  up,  it  is 
girdled  with  hardy  plants  and  shrubs  to 
the  region  of  frosts,  and  thence  the 
sheeting  snow.  From  the  northeast  and 
southwest  a  double  summit,  of  unequal 
heights,  is  presented — both  rounded  and 
loaded  with  perpetual  snow ;  but,  from 
most  points,  a  single  cone  is  shown.  Ris- 
ing abruptly  in  grandeur  and  great 
beauty  of  outline,  its  white,  cloud-like 
form,  drawn  clearly  against  the  sky,  is 
plainly  visible  from  points  to  the  south 
more  than  200  miles  distant.  There  are 
seasons,  however,  when  the  monarch, 
shrouding  the  white  robes  that  glisten  in 
the  summer  sun,  retires  to  gloomy  soli- 
tudes, and  sits  a  storm-king  upon  the 
clouds,  invisible  to  mortal  eye. 

"  In  the  forests  around  Mount  Sha?ta 
are  found  the  maple,  evergreen  oak,  and 
several  varieties  of  pine,  including  the 
spruce,  cedar,  and  fir.  Chief  among  them 
all  for  symmetry  and  perfection  of  iigure, 
is  the  majestic  sugar-pine,  nearly  equal- 
ing the  red-wood  in  size,  and  excelled  by 
none  as  a  beautiful  forest  tree. 

"  The  ascent  may  be  acconiplished  in  a 
favorable  season — in  August  or  Septem- 
ber— without  much  danger  or  difficulty, 
by  stout,  i-esolute  men.  The  extreme  ex- 
haustion realized  in  ascending  Mounts 
Blanc  or  Popocatapetl,  is  not  experienced  ; 
nor  is  the  trial  so  dangerous,  by  reason 
of  huge  fissures  and  icy  chasms ;  the 
main  difficulty  arises  from  the  rarefied 
condition  of  the  air,  to  which  the  system 
must  adapt  itself  rather  suddenly  for 
comfort, 

"  Shasta  Valley  spread  beneath  our 
feet  its  grassy  plains  and  evergreen 
groves,  dotted  with  villages,  mines,  and 
farms,    the   whole    aftbrding   scenes   un- 

*  Ode  to  Mount  Shasta,  by  John  R.  Eidge, 


equalled  in  beauty,  variety,  and  extent  of 
landscape,  and  which  may  not  be  ade- 
quately described." 

All  these  excursions  can  be  best  accom- 
plished on  animals.  A  mule  is  preferable, 
at  an  expense  of  about  $2  per  day,  which 
includes  every  thing.  Good  meals  and 
sleeping  accommodations  are  found  along 
the  routes,  whicli  is  truly  surprising,  con- 
sidering the  almost  impracticable  nature 
of  the  country  traversed.  There  is  a  stage 
line  from  Oroville,  via  Pence's  Ranch, 
Inskip,  and  Big  Meadows,  to  Susanville 
(104  miles),  which  is  a  town  of  some  im- 
portance, situated  between  Eagle  and 
Honey  Lalccs,  but  the  trip  will  hardly  re- 
pay the  tourist. 

{§Ii£ista. — Hotels,  the  Empire  and 
Americci7i. 

At  a  distance  of  28  miles  from  Red 
Blufl'  we  pass  through  Horsetown,  a  pros- 
perous nulling  place  of  500  inhabitants, 
and  9  miles  farther  we  arrive  at  Shasta. 
This  town  is  situated  in  the  foot-hilb 
of  the  mountains  stretching  across  the 
northern  end  of  the  State,  connecting  the 
northern  Sierras  with  the  Coast  Range. 
It  is  a  mining  town  of  800  inhabitants,  at 
the  northern  extremity  of  what  was  once 
vragon  navigation.  Formerly  all  goods 
destined  for  mines  farther  north,  had  to 
be  packed  on  mules,  but  a  good  wTtgon- 
road  has  recently  been  constructed  over 
the  Siskiyou  Mountains,  by  the  California 
Stage  Company,  for  the  purpose  of  trans- 
porting the  United  States  mail  between 
Sacramento  and  Portland,  Oregon. 

From  Shasta  the  rich  mining  localities 
in  the  vicinity  of  Weaverville,  distant  38 
miles,  and  Humboldt  Bay,  on  the  Pacific 
coast,  some  75  miles  distant,  can  be 
visited  on  animals. 

If  the  traveller  desire  to  pursue  his 
journey  still  farther  north,  he  may  do  so 
favorably  by  the  following  route  : 

Leaving  Shasta  for  Yreka,  we  pass  the 
Tower  House,  12  miles;  French  Gulch,  15 
miles  ;  Mountain  House,  23  miles ;  Gibb's 
Ferry,  35  miles;  Chadbourne,  43  mihs  ; 
Trinity  Centre,  49  miles  ;  and  Thomp- 
son's, 60  miles  ;  arriving  at  New  York 
House,  64  miles,  at  the  base  of  Scott 
Mountain,  which  is  now  to  be  climbed. 
In  a  distance  of  6  miles  farther  we  rise 
2,060  feet.  Every  foot  of  the  distance 
has  been  made  into  a  superb  roadway  by 

241 


Yreka.] 


CALirORXIA. 


[DOWNIETILLE. 


cutting  into  the  solid  rock,  bridging 
cliasms,  excavating  the  precipitous  side 
of  the  mountain,  walling  up  with  stone, 
clearing  away  a  dense  growth  of  timl)er, 
and  overcoming  other  obstacles.  On  the 
right  rises  the  perpendicuhr  embank- 
ment created  in  excavating  for  the  road, 
while  oil  the  left  tlie  traveller  looks  down 
a  fearful  precipice,  its  side  bristling  with 
sharp  and  jagged  rocks.  The  summit 
reached,  we  are  upv/ard  of  5,000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Here,  to  the 
riglit,  we  again  obtain  a  glorious  view  of 
Mount  Shasta,  covered  with  its  snowy 
shroud.  A  continuous  descent  of  V  miles 
brings  us  to  the  head  of  Scott  Valley^ 
and  3  miles  beyond  is  Callahan^s  Ranch. 
Scott  Valley  is  a  level  area  40  miles  long 
and  from  3  to  9  miles  wide,  a  beautiful 
tract  of  country,  hemmed  in  on  all  sides 
by  bold  and  precipitous  mountains.  Pass- 
ing tln'ough  Fort  Jones,  22  miles  north, 
and  crossing  a  lofty  divide  at  the  termina- 
tion of  the  valley,  we  arrive  at  Yreka, 
llf)  mile.s  fi'ora  Sliasta. 

Yf4'lia. — Hotels,  the  Metropolitan 
and  Yrtka. 

Yreka,  the  county  seat  of  Siskiyou 
county,  was  formerly  the  most  important 
mining  town  north  of  Oroville.  The 
town  contains  about  1,500  inhabitants,  is 
well  laid  out,  has  m.my  fine  buildings, 
ami  is  liglited  with  gas.  It  is  situated  in 
the  valley  of  Shasta  Creek,  is  encom- 
passed with  mountains,  and  is  distant 
iVoni  the  Oregon  State  line  28  miles.  The 
mines  in  tlie  vicinity  are  very  productive, 
giving  the  place  a  steady  and  rapid 
growth.  A  fine  view  of  Mount  Shasta, 
distant  some  30  miles,  is  attained  from 
the  ridge  cast  of  the  town. 

Proceeding  north  we  pass  through  Cot- 
tonwood, 20  miles,  Cole's,  28  miles,  where 
there  is  a  good  wayside  inn.  PI  ere  we 
ascend  the  Siskiyou  Mountain,  4  miles, 
and  from  its  summit  get  the  last  glimj)se 
of  Mount  Shasta.  Descentlitig  the  moun- 
tain 4  miles  to  its  base,  and  traversing  20 
miles  of  rolling  country,  we  arrive  at 
Jacksonville,  56  miles  from  Yreka. 

•JsBclfiiioaiTille  is  a  prominent 
town  of  Southern  Oregon,  situated  in  the 
fertile  Rogue  Hiver  valley,  about  9  miles 
south  of  that  river.  From  Jacksonville, 
AU/wuse  lies  about  GO  miles  west,  and 
Crescent  Cit>/  on  the  Pacilic  coast  south 
248 


of  the  boundary  line,  125  miles,  travers- 
ing an  exceedingly  rough  country. 

Having  reached  the  northern  limits  of 
our  journey  through  California,  we  now 
return  to  Marysvdle,  via  Yreka  and  Red 
BluiT.  From  Yreka  the  traveller,  if  so 
disposed,  can  make  an  excursion  westward 
to  the  coast.  Scott's  Bar,  a  rich  mining 
locality,  lies  some  25  miles  distant ;  the 
Forks  of  Salmon,  a  mining  locality  in 
Klamath  County,  about  90  miles  distant; 
the  mouth  of  the  Trinity  River,  130  miles ; 
and  Trinidad  on  the  coast,  about  160 
miles. 

MOUTE  II. 

TO  THE  SIERRA  N-EVADA  MOUNTAIN'S 
AND  JUNES. 

Haying  returned  to  Marysville,  we  will 
now  make  an  excursion  among  the  Sierra 
Nevada  Mountains,  visitins;  the  most  cele- 
brated  mining  regions  which  lie  along  their 
western  slope. 

Taking  the  Downieville  stage,  we  pass 
through  the  once  rich  localities  of  Long 
Bar,  14  miles,  Camptonville,  41  miles,  and 
Goody  ear's  Bar,  57  miles,  arriving  at 
Downieville,  5  miles,  making  the  total 
distance  from  Marysville  62  miles.  By 
this  route  we  visit  what  w-ere  once  the 
most  important  river  and  hill  diggings  in 
the  State,  finding  moderate  accommoda- 
tions and  fare  at  all  points  upon  the 
road. 

l>OTT2aieville. — UoTELS,American, 
Exchange,  Andreics''  Hotel. 

Downieville  is  the  county  seat  of  Sierra 
County,  and  contained,  in  1862,  about 
1,500  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  at  the 
junction  of  the  east  and  south  forks  of 
the  North  Yuba  River,  high  up  in  the 
mountains,  its  elevation  being  about  4,000 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  From  Sa- 
cramento it  can  best  be  reached  by  stage, 
via  Colfax  Station  (58  miles),  on  the  Cen- 
tral Pacific  IxaiJuai/.  The  scenery  is  bold 
and  impressive,  tlie  mountains  rising  to  a 
sreat  height  on  either  hand.  The  Sierra 
Buttes,  12  miles  east,  and  9,000  feet  high, 
form  a  notable  feature  in  the  landscape. 
An  excursion  from  this  point  north  would 
be  of  interest,  affording  tlie  traveller  an 
opportunity  to  pass  through  the  rich  and 
prosperous    mining    localities   of   Monte 


[evada.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Grass  Valley 


Iristo^  4  miles;  EnrcJca^  7;  3forristown., 
1  ;  La  Por/c,  18  ;  GibsonvlUe,  25  ;  N'ew- 
rJc,  21  ;  Onion  Valley^  30  ;  ]VcIsoh\s 
^olnt,  36,  arriving  at  Quincey,  43  miles, 
ver  a  very  wild  and  rouL;h  country. 
To  the  northeast  of  Quincey,  which  is 
le  county  seat  of  Plumas  County,  lie 
loncy  Lake,  Honey  Lake  Valley,  and 
[oneij  Lake  L-'ass.  Pilot  Peak,  near 
'nion  Vdley,  is,  next  to  Lassen's  Butte, 
le  highest  peak  of  the  northern  Sierras. 
.  tri-weekly  stage  leaves  Downieville,  via 
'ole  Canon,  for  La  Forte,  20  miles  ;  also 
Aveekly  stage  to  Virginia  City,  Nevada, 
04  miles. 

Leaving  Downieville  for  Nevada,  we 
ike  a  southerly  direction  through  Forest 
ity,  6  miles  ;  Comptonville,  18  ;  North 
m  Juan,  26 ;  arriving  at  Nevada,  88 
dies  in  12  hours.  A  cheaper  and  more 
speditious  route  is  now  from  Colfax  Sta- 
on  on  the  Central  Pacific  Railway,  via 
rass  Valley. 

]\  e  V n «i  it, — Hotels,  United  States 

'otel,  Natio-'^al  Exchange. 

Nevadn,  once  the  largest  mining  town 

the  State,  is  still  a  flourishing  place, 

id  the  county  seat  of  Nevada  County.    It 

)ntains  a  population  of  about  4,000,  and 

the  centre  of  a  large,  rich  mining  region. 

'    is  situated  well  up  among  the  foot-hills, 

id  contains  many  good  hotels,  stores,  and 

lurches.     Having  suffered  like  most  of 

e  cities  of  California  from  frequent  fires, 

■  e  business  portion  of  the  town  has  been 

built  with   substantial  fire-proof  struc- 

res.     In  the  vicinity  the  hid  diggings 

•id  tunnels  are  numerous  and  extensive. 

'.  has  ever  been  the  first  in  using  the  im- 

■oved   methods    of  hydraulic   pressure, 

.  aices,  tunnels,  etc.     Immense  outlays  in 

iter  canals,  for  mining  purposes,  have 

en  made  here  and  elsewhere  in  Nevada 

)unty. 

A  visit  beyond  the  town  toward  the 
•ad  of  the  South  Yuba  will  interest  the 
•  ."anger.  Besides  affording  him  an  op- 
rtunity  to  witness  the  rugged  scenery 
the  region,  it  will  perhnps  serve  to  con- 
ice  him  of  the  exhaustless  nature  of  the 
ning  interests  of  California,  as  all  the 
mcnse  ridges  dividing  the  Yuba  liiver, 
tending  for  20  or  SO  miles  in  length, 
ound  in  the  richest  mines  of  gold,  which 
11  take  many  years  of  labor  to  develop. 
e  country  also  aflbrds  exhaustless  quan- 


tities of  the  finest  lumber,  consisting  of 
pine,  cedar,  fir,  etc. 

Nevada  is  the  western  terminus  of  aa 
important  route  over  the  Sierras  to  Vir- 
ginia City,  in  Nevada,  called  the  Ilenness 
Pass  Route.  A  good  road  has  been  con- 
structed over  this  route,  which  has  an 
easier  grade  than  any  of  those  farther 
south.  The  distance  from  Nevada  to  Vir- 
ginia City  is  about  100  miles. 

^Mfass  Vii-lley, — Hotel,  Exchange 
Hotel 

Grass  Valley,  4  miles  south  of  Nevada, 
and  66  northeast  of  Sacramento,  via  Col- 
fax, is  the  quartz-mining  centre  of  the 
State.  It  is  finely  located,  and  is  noted 
for  its  hotels  and  beautiful  residences,  as 
well  as  numerous  quartz-mills.  It  is  said 
to  contain  more  wealth,  including  its  mills 
and  machinery,  than  any  other  mining 
town  in  the  State.  The  mines  hereabouts 
are  at  present  attracting  immigration,  and 
the  population,  variously  estimated  at 
from  2,000  to  4,000,  is  rapidly  increas- 
ing. 

Aia.l)sirii. — Hotels,  Empire,  Amcvi- 
ean. — Journeying  soutlivvard  from  Grass 
Valley,  we  wind  along  through  the  moun- 
tains and  forests,  crossing  Bear  River, 
arriving  at  Auburn,  on  the  Pacific  Central 
Railway,  thirty-six  miles  northeast  of 
Sacramento.  This  is  a  fine  village  of 
about  2,000  inhabitants,  the  county  seat 
of  Placer  County,  and  the  centre  of  a 
large  fiirming  region. 

A  rich  mining  region  exists  northeast 
of  Auburn,  between  the  north  and  middle 
forks  of  the  American  River,  and  many 
thriving  mining  towns  have  sprung  up, 
among  whicli  are  Illinoistown,  Iowa  Hill, 
Ophir,  Gold  Hill,  Forest  Hill,  Yankee 
Jim's,  Michigan  Bluffs,  and  others,  distant 
from  4  to  18  miles,  and  reached  daily  by 
stage. 

l>iitcla  ff"Iat,  31  miles  distant,  was 
formerly  the  starting-point  of  what  is 
called  the  Dutch-Flat  Wagon-Road  over 
the  Sierras,  via  the  Truckee  Pass,  to  Vir- 
ginia City. 

I'^olsoBii. — Hotels,  Patterson''s,  Cen- 
tral.— Folsom  is  situated  on  the  Sacra- 
mento Valley  Railway,  22  miles  east  of 
Sacramento,  and  18  miles  south  of  Au- 
burn. It  stands  at  the  base  of  the  Foot 
Hills,  and  is  surrounded  bv  both  a  mining 
and  an  agricultural  region.     Trains  now 

249 


FOLSOM.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Placertille. 


run  over  the  VaUey  Road  to  S!i ingle 
Springs,  connecting  Folsoni  with  FIiiCcT- 
\ille,  and  the  stage  line  to  Nevada.  While 
in  this  neighborhood  an  opportunity  is 
afforded  of  visiting  the  Alabaster  Cave, 
12  miles  from  Folsom.  This  cave, 
which  was  discovered  in  April,  1860,  by 
two  men  who  were  quarrying  lime- 
stone, is  situated  on  the  Whiskey-Bo- 
Road,  5  miles  from  Centreville,  in  El 
Dorado  County.  It  is  thus  described  by 
a  recent  visitor :  "  A  single  step  takes 
you  from  the  street  into  the  hall  of  the 
silent  mansion.  This  entrance  is  not  the 
one  first  discovered,  but  has  been  cut 
through  the  solid  rock  from  another  cham- 
l)er  to  the  outer  world.  Passing  through 
this,  the  visitor  is  ushered  into  an  irregu- 
lar apartment  two  hundred  feet  in  length 
by  perhaps  seventy-live  in  width,  and  of 
various  lieights,  with  numerous  eleva- 
tions, depressions,  recesses,  galleries,  etc. 
A  scene  of  wonlerful  magnificence  is  be- 
fore  him.  Millions  of  jewels  appear  to  be 
glittering  from  the  walls.  Shining  pend- 
ants, some  large,  some  small,  some  short, 
some  very  long,  some  reuchirig  from  ceil- 
ing to  floor,  some  thick,  some  slender, 
some  tapering,  some  uniform,  some  tubu- 
lar, some  solid,  some  clear  as  crystal, 
some  of  a  bluish  tinge,  hang  thickly  from 
the  marble  roof.  Here  a  liitle  wrinkly 
stub  of  a  stalagmite  pushes  itself  up  from 
the  floor;  and  there  stands  Lot's  wife 
turned  not  into  a  pillar  of  salt,  but  of 
marble  ;  and  there,  again,  is  Mount  Blanc 
rising  witii  its  snowy  folds  several  feet 
above  your  head.  Passing  through  tliis 
first  chamber  and  descending  a  little,  you 
turn  to  the  left,  througli  a  cross-section, 
from  which  shoot  out  several  passages, 
some  brilliantly  lit,  and  beautiful  to  be 
hold,  and  others,  one  at  least,  as  yet  unex- 
plored. Turning  still  to  the  left,  you  en- 
ter the  last  chamber,  lying  exactly  parallel 
to  the  one  first  entered,  but  if  any  thing 
more  beautiful.  This  is  called  the  Crystal 
Chapel,iind  has  its  belfry  and  pulpit  as  well. 
The  pulpit  especially  is  a  thing  of  rare 
beauty,  probably  built  in  the  olden  time, 
as  it  is  ratlier  too  near  the  ceiling  to  be 
of  modern  design.  It  has  been  formed  by 
droppings  from  above,  catching  on  a  pro- 
jection of  rock,  and  then  rising  and 
spreading  and  folding  over  with  the  most 
graceful  drapery  underneath." 
250 


Place I'ville  . — Hotels,  Car^/ 
House,  Orleans  Hotel.  Placerville,  the 
county  seat  of  El  Dorado  County,  is  28 
miles  east  of  Folsom.  The  Valley  Rail- 
road is  now  in  progress  from  that  point, 
via  Shingle  Springs,  It  is  one  of  the 
oldest  and  one  of  the  largest  of  the  moun- 
tain towns,  containing  about  4,000  in- 
habitants. It  is  on  one  of  the  principal 
routes  of  travel  over  the  Sierra  Nevada 
Mountains  to  the  Washoe  region  in  Carson 
Valley,  and  has  long  been  a  prominent 
out-fitting  point.  The  town  of  Coloma, 
10  miles  nortliwest  of  Placerville,  was  for- 
merly the  county  seat  of  El  Dorado 
County,  and  is  distinguished  as  the  place 
where  gold  was  first  discovered.  The  re- 
mains of  the  old  saw-mill  of  Captain  Sut- 
ter are  just  below  the  present  town,  and 
will  be  looked  upon  with  much  interest 
by  the  stranger  as  a  memento  of  the 
great  event  which  has  revolutionized  the 
commerce  of  the  world. 

Carsosi  Valley, — We  will  now 
accompany  our  traveller  over  the  Sierras 
to  Carson  Valley,  touching  at  other  points 
on  the  eastern  slope,  where  exist  silver 
and  gold  mines  of  marvellous  richness, 
which  arc  attracting  capitalists  from  tlie 
Old  and  New  World.  There  is  a  finely- 
graded  road  the  whole  distance,  and  it 
winds  through  some  of  the  wildest  and 
most  beautiful  scenery  in  Calilbrnia,  as 
well  as  affording  glimpses  of  the  most 
grand  and  sublime.  The  facilities  for  trav- 
el over  the  Placerville  and  Virginia  City 
Road  are  of  the  best  description.  Aline 
of  mail  stages  runs  daily  between  the  two 
cities,  bringing  them  within  30  hours  of 

7  CD  *> 

each  other,  allowing  passengers  time  for 
meals  and  rest  upon  the  road. 

Leaving  Placerville  in  the  afternoon,  we 
enter  almost  immediately  upon  the  broad 
mountain  road  that  by  easy  grades  con- 
ducts us  to  the  west  summit  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  a  height  of  7,000  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  As  we  approach  the 
summit,  the  pines,  firs,  and  cedars  attain 
a  gigantic  size,  and  constitute  a  dense 
forest.  At  Crippen's,  26  miles  from 
Placerville,  we  pass  the  night.  Kenewing 
the  journey  at  daybreak,  we  pass  through 
Strawberry  Valley,  50  miles  from  Placer-  | 
ville,  where  a  good  hotel  affords  the  best 
of  accommodation ;  and  a  few  miles  far- 
ther reach  the  western  summit.      From 


Lake  Taiioe.] 


CALIFOKNIA. 


[Pet  ALU  MA. 


tliis  point  of  view  we  have  a  combination 
of  mountain,  lake,  and  valley  scenery,  un- 
surpassed in  beauty  and  wild  grandeur  by 
any  similar  scene  perhaps  on  the  Amer- 
ican continent.  At  our  feet  lies  Lal-e 
Vallcij^  more  than  a  thousand  feet  below. 
Granite  ledges  gleam  through  the  dark 
pines  that  iiinge  its  sides,  wliich  rise  in 
places  to  snou-covered  peaks.  On  the 
left  and  northeastward,  at  a  distance  of  7 
miles,  repose  the  deep-blue  waters  of  LaJ:e 
l^ahoe  (Bigler),  while  beyond,  the  extrem- 
ity of  the  valley  loses  itself  in  the  dis- 
tance. The  effect  of  tlie  whole  scene  is 
as  charming  as  it  is  indescribable. 

SL£al*;c  'fi'iilioe, — There  is  no  lake 
in  California,  indeed  there  are  few  any- 
where, that  will  compare  with  Tahoe  for 
beauty  and  variety  of  scenery.  It  is  25 
miles  long,  and  about  6  in  average  width. 
The  surrounding  mountains  rise  from  one 
to  three,  and  in  some  cases  four  thous- 
and feet  above  its  surface.  From  the 
water's  edge  to  the  summits  of  these 
mountains,  a  dense  pijie  forest  extends, 
except  at  points  where  a  peak  of  more 
than  ordinary  elevation  rears  its  bald 
head  above  the  waving  forests.  The 
lake  abounds  with  fish.  Boats  and  tackle 
can  be  obtained  at  the  Glenbrook,  Lake, 
and  Tahoe  City  hotels.  From  the  Glen- 
brook a  delightful  excursion  can  be  made 
to  Tahoe  City,  on  the  opposite  side.  The 
fishing  and  hunting  on  this  side  is  consid- 
ered  the  best  on  the  lake.  Fallen  Leaf 
Lake  and  TalOac  Mountain  should  be  vis- 
ited. Descending  into  the  valley  by  a 
roadway  excavated  from  the  side  of  the 
mountain,  we  pass  over  the  east  summit 
through  JDaggeWs  I^ass,  and  5  miles  be- 
yond find  ourselves  in  the  open,  level, 
elevated  plain  of  Carson  Valley,  2  miles 
south  of  Genoa. 

Carson  "Valley  is  a  tract  of  nearly  lev- 
el land,  about  30  miles  long  and  10 
wide,  three-fourths  of  which  is  well 
adapted  for  agricultural  purposes.  Al- 
though shut  in  by  high  mountains 
on  the  east  and .  on  the  west,  it  is 
itself  an  elevated  plateau,  more  than 
4,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
Carson  liiver,  fringed  with  v/illows  and 
occasional  cotton  woods,  flows  through  it 
in  a  northerly  direction.  The  eastern 
slope  of  the  Sierras  is  very  abrupt,  rising 
at  a  sharp  angle  from  the  western  limit 


of  the  valley,  and  is  covered  with  pines, 
.thougli  none  grow  in  the  valley  below. 
This  was  once,  and  is  yet  to  many,  the 
favorite  route  for  overland  immigrants 
to  California ;  much  the  largest  share 
of  travel  now  proceeds  by  stage  to 
Cisco  and  thence  by  railway  to  Sacra- 
Ricnto,  though  other  routes  across  the 
mountains  are  much  used. 


HOUTE  III, 

SAN-  FBAXCISCO  TO  PETALUMA  AND 
THE  GEYSERS. 

The  route  to  the  far-famed  Geysers  of 
Sonoma  County  from  San  Francisco  is  by 
steamer  to  Petaluma,  and  thence  by  stage, 
via  Santa  Rosa  and  Healdsburg. 

Leaving  the  city  at  Broadway  Wharf, 
the  course  steered  is  due  north,  the 
same  as  that  to  Sacramento  and  Stock- 
ton, along  the  western  shore  of  San 
Pablo  Bay,  affording  the  tourist  a  view 
of  Tamal  Pais  ani  the  smiling  little  vil- 
lages of  San  Quentin  and  San  liafael.  A 
few  miles  north  of  the  foi'mer  place  the 
boat  enters  the  Petaluma  Creek  or 
"  Slough,"  and  after  calling  at  Lakeville, 
on  the  east  bank,  reaches  her  landing,  23 
miles  north  of  that  village  and  about  two 
miles  south  of  Petaluma,  wdiere  a  liorse- 
car  is  in  waiting  to  conduct  us  to  the 
tow^n.  The  entire  distance  of  48  miles 
from  San  Francisco  is  usually  accom- 
plished in  about  four  hours. 

I.*cta3Mitia,*  the  county  seat  of 
Sonoma  County,  is  pleasantly  situated 
near  the  head  of  navigation  on  Petaluma 
Creek.  Schooners  and  other  small  craft 
navigate  the  creek  to  this  point.  It  was 
laid  out  in  1852,  by  Lewis  &  Hentzelman, 
near  what  was  originally  the  Petaluma 
Grant,  and  known  at  that  time  as  the 
Brewster  Survey.  It  is  in  the  centre  of 
a  fertile  agricultural  region,  and  large 
quantities  of  grain  are  annually  shipped 
hence.  Sonoma  County  is  also  famous 
for  its  vineyards. 

Petaluma  was  incorporated  in  1858, 
and  now  contains  a  population  of  3,500. 
It  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  well  supulied 
with  v/ater  from  Artesian  Avells.  Excel- 
lent building  material  is  obtained  within 

*  Anglice,  "  Eolling  Hills." 
251 


Healdsbcrg.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[The  Geysers. 


the  limits  of  the  town.  Religious  an  3 
educational  institutions  are  numerous  and 
flourishing.  There  are  7  church  edifices 
and  12  public  and  private  schools.  The 
Pacific  College  (Baptist)  is  located  here. 
Hoishaw  Hall  has  sittings  for  750  per- 
sons. The  town  contains  two  flouring- 
mills,  one  iron  foundery,  a  pottery,  tan- 
nery, and  several  carriage  manufactories 
and  brick-yards,  and,  what  is  more  de- 
sirable still  to  the  traveller,  it  has  a  good 
hotel — the  American  House.  The  Sono- 
ma County  Journal  and  Gazette  is  pub- 
lished weekly.  Petaluraa  is  the  radiating 
point  of  numerous  stage  lines.  The  fol- 
lowing run  regularly  throughout  the  year 
viz-,  the  Petaluma  and  Cloverdale,  via 
Healdsburg  (32  miles),  to  Cloverdale  (49 
miles),  connecting  there,  semi-w^cekly, 
with  stages  to  Mendocino  (121  miles) ; 
Fetalitma  and  Duncans  Mill,  tri-weekly, 
via  Bloomfield  (14  miles)  to  Duncan's 
Mill  (36  miles),  where  connection  is  made 
to  Poii:it  Arenas,  50  miles  beyond  ;  and  the 
Petaluma  and  Bodega  line,  via  Sebastopol 
(16  miles)  to  Bodega  (26  miles). 

Leaving  Petaluraa  at  7  a.  m.,  we  soon 
reach  Santa  Rosa  (16  miles),  a  pleasant  Ut- 
tletown  with  a  good  hostelry  (Colgan's), 
where  passengers  making  the  trip  during 
the  winter  season  have  half  an  hour  for 
dinner.  Sis  miles  beyond  Santa  Rosa  we 
reach  Jfark  West  Station  and  post-office, 
and  in  six  miles  more  Windsor,  at  both 
of  wliich  places  short  stoppages  are  made. 

llcsilcliiibiirg',  32  miles  from  Peta- 
luma, is  a  thriving  town,  and  the  point 
of  departure  for  the  Geysers.  In  sum- 
mer t!ie  stages  run  through  from  Peta- 
luma to  the  Geysers  in  one  day;  but  in 
winter,  when  the  roads  are  heavy,  and  in 
some  places  well-nigh  impassable,-  travel- 
lers will  find  it  necL'Ssary  to  remain  at 
llealdsljurg  (Wright's  Hotel)  over  niglit, 
proceeding  thence  to  the  springs  on 
horseljaeU. 

To  those  -who  have  never  visited  the 
Geysers,  a  good  guide  is  indispensa- 
ble. Mr.  Foss,  who  is  to  be  found  m 
Healdsburg  when  not  engaged  in  piloting 
parties  over  the  road,  ha;?  tlic  reputation 
of  being  the  best  Geyser  man  in  the 
county,  and  tourists  will  do  well  to 
secure  his  services.  Mr.  Shafer,  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  Geyser  Springs  Hotel,  will 
also  furnisli  guides  when  desired. 
252 


Leaving  Healdsburg  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, a  few  miles'  travel  on  the  road  brings 
the  traveller  to  Ray^s  Ranch,  situated 
among  the  foot-hills,  617  feet  above  the 
sea-level,  and  commanding  a  fine  view  of 
Russian  River  valley,  the  Coast  Range, 
Mount  St.  Helens,  etc.  From  this  point 
the  ascent  is  gradual  for  3  miles,  till  we 
reach  Geyser  (Godwin's)  Peak,  which  is 
3,470  feet  high.  From  this  point  the 
view  is  charming.  The  whole  valley  of 
Russian  River  lies  at  your  feet,  extending 
from  southeast  and  south  where  it  joins 
Petaluma  Valley,  round  to  the  northwest. 
Beyond  the  valley  extends  the  long  line 
of  the  Coast  Mountains.  To  the  south- 
east rises  Mount  St.  Helens,  considered 
by  many  the  most  beautiful  mountain  in 
California.  Directly  south,  at  a  distance 
of  60  to  70  miles,  when  the  overhanging 
fog  is  not  too  dense,  may  be  discerned 
the  waters  of  the  lovely  bay  and  the  blue 
waves  of  the  mighty  Pacific.  In  fine, 
clear  weather  the  view  from  this  Peak  is 
amongst  the  finest  to  be  had  in  all  this 
lovely  region.  The  sides  of  the  Peak  to 
its  summit  are  covered  with  a  thick 
growth  of  tangled  chaparral.  Leaving 
the  summit,  the  trail  conducts  the  travel- 
ler along  a  narrow  ridge  called  by  the 
unpootieal  name  of  the  "  Hog's  Bade," 
which  divides  the  waters  of  Pluton  River 
and  Sulphur  Creek.  Near  the  foot  of  the 
hill  stands  tlie  Geyser  Springs  Hvtv', 
which  is  open  to  vi.>itors  from  May  to 
October.  The  view  of  the  Geysers  from 
the  hotel  is  an  impressive  one,  more  par- 
ticularly in  the  morning,  when  the  vanor 
can  be  plainly  seen  issuing  from  the  eaith 
in  a  hundred  different  places  ;  the  numer- 
ous columns  uniting  at  some  distance 
from  the  earth,  and  forming  an  immense 
cloud  whicii  overhangs  the  whole  canon. 
The  unearthly-looking  canon  in  which 
most  of  the  springs  are  situated,  makes 
up  into  the  mountains  directly  from  the 
river.  A  short  distance  up  the  caiion  is 
a  deep  shady  pool  which  receives  the 
united  waters  of  all  the  springs  above  it, 
and  which  atfords  a  most  luxurious  bath. 
Farther  up  is  Prosrrjnnch  Grotto,  a  lovely 
nook,  whence  ghmpses  of  the  narrow 
gorge  above  with  its  cascades  can  be  ob- 
tained. We  are  already  amid  the  springs, 
which  become  more  numerous  and  noisy 
as   we   advance  up   the    canon.      They 


Napa.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Stockton. 


number  nearly  200,  of  every  gradation  of 
temperature,  and  impregnated  with  all 
sorts  of  mineral  and  elieniieal  compounds. 
The  Steamboat  Gei/ser,  the  DeviVs  Grist- 
Mill,  and  the  Witches'  Caldron^  are  the 
most  noteworthy.  After  inspecting  the 
springs,  it  is  worth  the  visitor's  while  to 
climb  the  mountains  on  the  north  side  of 
the  Pluton,  and  take  a  view  of  Clear 
Lake  and  the  surrounding  landscape. 
But,  perhaps,  as  a  late  writer  has  re- 
marked, the  scene  which  would  delight  a 
lover  of  nature  most  can  be  obtained  by 
rising  early  and  walking  back  half  a  mile 
upoii  the  trail  which  descends  to  the 
hotel.  ''  It  is  to  see  the  gorgeous  tints 
of  the  eastern  sky,  as  the  sun  comes 
climbing  up  behind  the  distant  mountains, 
and  afterward  to  watch  his  long  slanting 
rays  in  the  illuminated  mist,  as  they  come 
streaming  down  the  caiion  of  the  Pluton, 
flashing  on  the  water  in  dots  and  splashes 
of  dazzling  light,  and  tippir>g  the  rich 
shadows  of  the  closely-woven  foliage  with 
a  fringe  of  gold." 

Two  days  will  amply  suffice  to  see  the 
Geysers,  the  round  trip  from  Healdsburg 
and  back  being  comfortably  accomplished 
in  two  more.  From  Healdsburg  the  re- 
turn trip  to  San  Francisco  can  be  profit- 
ably made  through  the  Napa  valley,  via 
Colestoga  Spiings,  St.  Helens,  and  Sebasto- 
pol,  to  Napa,  whence  a  boat  leaves  daily 
for  San  Francisco. 

Napa^  the  county  seat  of  Napa 
County,  is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of 
Napa  River,  12  miles  from  its  mouth, 
and  about  20  miles  above  Benicia,  on 
San  Pablo  Bay.  Stages  to  Sacramento, 
65  miles  ;  to  the  Geysers,  70  miles. 

MOUTE  IV, 

sa:n-  fbakctsco  to  Stockton  akd 
the  big  tree  geo  ves. 

Stockton. — Hotel,  Weber  House. 

Stockton,  the  port  and  principal  entre- 
pot of  the  San  Joaquin  district,  is  situ- 
ated upon  a  slough  or  arm  of  the  San 
Joaquin  River,  3  miles  from  its  junction 
with  that  stream,  and  125  miles  from  San 
Francisco,  via  the  steamboat  route,  and 
80  miles  via  the  stage  route  through  Ala- 
meda County  to  Oakland  and  across  the 
bay.     A  railway  is  now  in  progress  which 


will  eventually  connect  Stockton  with 
San  Jose,  and  other  towns  south.  Stock- 
ton is  the  centre  of  trade  and  travel  for 
all  the  country  south  of  the  Cosumnes 
River,  the  district  generally  known  as  the 
Southern  Mines.  The  city,  which  was 
incorporated  July  25,  1850,  embraces  an 
area  of  one  mile  square.  It  contains  a 
population  of  7,500  inhabitants,  and  has 
several  good  hotels,  churches,  and  a 
theatre.  The  streets,  66  in  number,  are 
well  graded  and  planked ;  many  of  the 
stores  and  other  places  of  business  are 
fine  structures  of  brick.  A  daily  line  of 
steamers  from  San  Francisco  reach  the 
place  in  the  morning,  and  connect  with 
the  numerous  lines  of  stages  which  leave 
every  morning  for  the  various  mining 
towns  in  the  interior.  In  the  environs  of 
Stockton,  particularly  toward  the  Cala- 
veras Rivei",  many  fine  farms  or  ranches 
are  located,  and  under  good  improvement. 
The  State  Insane  Asi/hmi  should  be  visit- 
ed. It  is  a  large,  substantial  edifice,  less 
than  a  mile  from  tlie  centre  of  the  city 
and  admirably  adapted  to  the  purposes 
intended.  The  grounds  attached  to  the 
asylum  buildings  embrace  120  acres,  and 
are  being  tastefully  laid  out.  The  old 
building,  or  male  department,  should  be 
first  visited.  The  south  wing  was  built 
in  1853,  the  central  building  added  in 
1854,  and  the  north  wing  in  1859.  The 
new  building  is  an  imposing  structure  of 
brick,  448  feet  front,  with  two  wings,  each 
150  feet.  It  was  commenced  in  1864, 
and  will  be  completed  in  1870,  at  a  cost 
of  $275,000.  It  is  intended  for  the  ac- 
commodation of  the  female  patients.  The 
number  of  patients,  male  and  female, 
confined  here  at  present,  is  about  750. 
Strangers  admitted  daily  on  appliciitiou 
to  the  Superintendent,  Dr.  ShurtlefF,  at 
the  asylum. 

The  Presbyterian,  Catholic,  and  Bap- 
tist churches  are  fine  commodious  struc- 
tures. The  Court-House,  commenced 
in  1853,  occupies  the  centre  of  the 
public  square.  The  Stockton  Independ- 
ent^ the  leading  newspaper  of  this  sec- 
tion of  the  State,  is  among  the  note- 
worthy institutions  of  the  city.  The 
Artesian  Well^  1,002  feet  deep,  and  dis- 
charging 360,000  gallons  of  water  per 
diem.,  is  well  worth  inspecting.  Lindsey 
Foint.^  where  Captain  Lindsey  w'as  killed 

263 


MOKELUMNE  HlLL.] 


CALIFOllXIA. 


[Murphy's. 


by  the  Indians,  is  also  a  place  of  interest 
to  visitors.  The  vie'.vs  obtained  froaa 
Stockton  are  very  fine.  On  the  east  the 
lofty  Sierra  Nevada,  with  its  snow-cap- 
ped summits,  is  ever  visible,  and  on  the 
west  the  peaks  of  Mount  Diablo  rise  in 
tjwering  ma^rnificence.  Stockton  being 
the  main  starting-point  for  the  fomous 
Yo-Semite  and  Big  Tree  Groves  of  Cala- 
veras and  Mariposa,  is  usually  visited  by 
large  numbers  of  strangers  in  the  spring 
and  summer  months.  Stages  run  to 
Sacramento  (50  miles),  San  Andreas  (4-3' 
miles),  Copperopolis  (36  miles),  Campo 
Seco  (38  miles).  The  El  Dorado  Livery 
Stable  has  good  outfits. 

Mol^cliiiiiiie      ISill.  —  Hotels, 
Unio7i  House,  La  Fayette  House. 

Mokelumne  Hill,  the  county  seat  of  Ca- 
laveras County,  has  a  population  of  about 
1,000,  and  contains  many  tine  stone  build- 
ings, and  other  permanent  structures.  In 
the  vicinity,  some  of  the  richest  hill  dig- 
gings in  the  State  have  been  found.  A 
canal  for  bringing  water  for  mining  pur- 
poses a  distance  of  40  miles,  has  been  in 
use  several  years ;  lumber  is  also  floated 
down  from  the  lumber  region  above. 

In  speaking  of  the  canals  of  the  mining 
region,  it  will  be  proper  to  state  that  mil- 
lions of  dollars  are  most  profitably  em- 
ployed in  their  structure,  and  they  are 
found  traversing  almost  every  ravine  and 
flat ;  brought  from  far  up  the  mountains 
at  the  sources  of  the  streams  ;  sometimes 
constructed  of  plank  the  entire  distance, 
as  is  the  canal  coming  into  Mokelumne 
Hill.  These  are  among  the  greatest  en- 
terprises of  the  State,  involving  an  im- 
mense outlay  of  capital  and  labor.  In 
Calaveras  County  alone  there  are  54 
canals  and  water  ditches,  whose  aggre- 
gate length  is  550  miles,  and  the  cost  of 
construction  nearly  two  millions  of  dollars. 
Stages  daily  between  Mokelumne  Hill  and 
Latrobe,  via  Sutter  Creek,  Amador,  and 
Dry  town. 

^an  Andreas. — Hotels,  Metro- 
politan, KinderliooJc. 

Proceeding  south  from  Mokelumne  Hill 
by  stage  9  miles,  we  arrive  at  San  Andre- 
as, a  prosperous  mining  town  of  over  1,000 
iuhiU)itants,  45  miles  from  Stockton,  via 
Spring  Valley.  It  is  beautiiuHy  situated 
in  close  proximity  to  well-wooded  hills. 
Northward  and  eastward  on  Murray  Creek 
254 


are  a  number  of  orchards,  gardens,  and 
grazing  ranches  ;  to  the  west  is  the  regu- 
lar wall-formed  Bear  Mountain,  covered 
with  grass  and  oak  timber.  Daily  stage 
to  Sonora,  20  miles. 

Mns'p lay's. — Hotel,  Sperry^s. 

A  ride  of  15  miles  from  San  Andreas 
brings  us  to  Murphy's,  a  village  of  600  or 
800  inhabitants,  containing  a  fine  hotel 
built  of  stone.  In  the  immediate  vicin- 
ity of  the  town  were  formerly  rich,  deep 
diggings  which  were  worked  on  an  ex- 
tensive scale.  A  daily  line  of  coaches 
reach  Stockton  from  this  point,  via  Angels 
and  Copperopolis.  The  distance  from 
Sacramento  to  Murphy's  by  stage  route 
is  95  miles  ;  from  Stockton,  79  miles ; 
from  Columbia,  11  miles;  from  Sonora, 
15  miles  ;  from  Copperopolis,  14  miles. 
We  are  now  within  15  miles  of  the  cele- 
brated grove  of  mammoth  trees  in  Cala- 
veras County. 

Maininotli  I'ree  Orove. — 
Leaving  Murphy's  in  the  morning,  we  ar- 
rive at  the  grove  in  3  hours,  by  carriage 
or  on  horseback,  the  road  winding  tlu-ou-'h 
a  fine  open  forest,  consisting  of  immense 
pines,  firs,  cedars,  etc. 

"■  The  giant  trees,  in  silent  mnjosty. 
Like  pillars,   stand    'neath    Heaven's    migbty 

dome. 
'Twoukl  seem  that,  j^erched  upon  their  topmost 

branch. 
With  outhti-etchod  finger,  man  might  touch  the 

stars ; 
Yet,  could  he  gain  that  height,  the  boundless 

sky 
Were  still  as  far  bej-oud  his  utmost  reach 
As  from  the  burrowing  toilers  in  a  mine. 
Their  age  unknown,  into  what  depths  of  time 
Mi^ht  Fancy  v,-andor  sportively,  and  deem 
Some  Monarch-Father  of  this  grove  set  fortli 
Ilis  tiny  slioot,  Avhen  the  primeval  flood 
Keceded  irom  the  old  and  changed  earth ; 
Perhaps,  coeval  with  Assyrian  kings. 
His  branches  in  dominion  sjiread;  from  age 
To  atce,  his  sapling  heirs  with  empires  grew. 
AVhen    Time    those    patriarchs'    lealy    tresses 

strewed 
Upon  the  earth,  while  Art  and  Science  slept, 
And  ruthless  hordes  drove  back  Improvement's 

stream, 
Their  sturdy  oaklings  throve,  and,  in  their  turn, 
Rose,  when  Columbus  gave  to  Spain  a  worliL 
How  many  races,  savage  or  refined. 
Have  dwelt  beneath  their  shelter  I     Who  shall 

say 
(If  hands  irreverent  molest  them  not) 
But  they  mny  shadow  mighty  cities,  reared. 
E'en  at  their  roots,  in  centuries  to  come. 
Till,  with  the  "  Everlasting  hills  "  they  bow. 
When  "Time  shall  be  no  longer  1 " 

At  the  grove  the  Ifamrnotk  Tree  Hotel 


Mammoth  Tree  Grove.] 


CALIFOKNIA. 


[Mammoth  Tree  Groye. 


affords  eA'ery  accommodation  to  the  vis- 
itor, and  several  days  may  be  [)leasant- 
ly  spent  at  this  point.  The  house 
laces    the   grove  —  having    the    greater 


number  of    the  trees   to 
ing    from    the    veranda, 


the  left,  look- 
two 
t,  about 


and    the 

"  Sentinels  "  immediately  m  fro 
200  yards  to  the  eastward.  The  valley 
contains  something  over  160  acres  of 
land.  It  is  4,000  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  Ninety-three  trees  of  this 
species  (not  including  those  of  1,  2, 
and  o  years'  growth)  are  now  standing, 
and  are  all  tbund  within  an  area  of  50 
acres  of  the  valley.  They  are  evidently  a 
gigantic  species  of  cedar,  as  is  indicated 
by  the  growth,  bark,  and  leaf;  according 
to  botanists,  however,  they  belong  to  the 
family  of  Tax<xJiums^  and  have  been  justly 
named  Washingtoma  Gigantea,  and  are 
beyond  doubt  the  most  stupendous  vege- 
table products  upon  earth.  They  were 
discovered  in  the  spring  of  1850,  by  Mr. 
-A.  T.  Dowd,  while  on  a  hunt  for  deer, 
w  hose  account  to  his  companions  of  Avhat 
he  had  seen,  upon  returning  to  camp,  was 
considered  fabulous  and  utterly  discred- 
ited until  proved  by  actual  measurement. 
The  valley  enjoys  a  splendid  climate  dur- 


ing 


the    spi'ing,    summer,    and    autumn 


months,  being  tree  from  the  heat  of  the 
lower  counti-y  and  from  the  cold  of  the 
higher  mountains.  Vecetation  remains 
fresh  and  green  until  the  middle  of  Octo- 
ber, and  the  water  is  always  pure  and 
cold.  Snow  falls  usually  about  the  mid- 
dle of  December,  often  accumulating  to  a 
depth  of  4  or  5  feet,  and  entirely  disap- 
pears by  the  middle  of  April.  The  vicin- 
ity oiFers  every  inducement  to  sportsmen  ; 
all  kinds  of  game  common  to  tha,country 
abound,  while  the  adjacent  streams  afford 
excellent  trout-fishing.  Delightful  horse- 
back or  buggy  rides  conduct  the  visitor 
to  many  interesting  points  of  scenery  or 
objects  of  curiosity,  among  which  may  be 
mentioned  the  Falls  of  the  San  Antonio^ 
and  the  Basaltic  Cliff  on  the  North  Eork 
of  the  Stanislaus  lliver. 

In  front  of  the  hotel  (100  yards 
distant)  stands  the  stump  of  the  Big 
Tree.  It  measures  96  feet  in  cir- 
cumference, and  is  1  feet  high ;  a  sec- 
tion of  2  feet  was  taken  from  this  stump, 
also  a  section  of  bark  50  feet  long,  by 
Capt.  Hanford,  and  carried  to  New  York 


for  exhibition ;  they  are  noAV  in  Paiis. 
Tiie  surface  of  the  stump  is  smooth,  and 
alfords  ample  space  for  32  persons  to 
dance,  it  being  75  feet  in  circumference, 
solid  timber.  Theatrical  performances 
have  also  been  given  upon  it  by  the 
"Chapman  Family"  in  May,  1855;  also, 
the  "  Kobinson  Family,"  July  4,  1855. 
This  monster  tree  was  cut  down  by  bor- 
ing with  augers  and  sawing  the  spaces  be- 
tween. It  requii-ed  the  labor  of  5  men 
25  days  to  effect  its  fall,  the  tree  standing 
so  nearly  perpendicular  that  a  wedge  and 
battering-ram  were  necessary  to  cause  its 
fail  after  being  fully  cut  off.  Near  tlie 
stump  lies  a  section  of  the  trunk  ;  this  is 
25  feet  in  diameter  and  20  feet  long ;  be- 
yond lies  the  immense  trunk  as  it  fell, 
measuring  302  feet  from  the  base  of  the 
stump  to  its  extremity.  Upon  this  is 
situated  the  bar  room  and  ten-pin  alley, 
stretching  along  its  upper  surface  for  a 
distance  of  81  feet,  affording  ample  space 
for  two  alley-beds,  side  by  side.  About 
80  feet  from  this  stump  stand  the  ''  Two 
Sentinels,"  each  over  300  feet  high,  and 
the  larger  23  feet  in  diameter.  The  car- 
riage road,  approaching  the  hotel,  passes 
directly  between  the  "  Two  Sentinels." 
South  of  the  "  Sentinels,"  and  to  the  right 
of  the  road  as  you  approach  them  on  the 
hill-side,  stands  a  tree  over  14  feet  in  di- 
ameter, which  has  been  named  "  Old 
Dowd,"  in  honor  of  the  discoverer  of  the 
grove. 

Leaving  the  hotel,  the  grove  is  best 
entered  by  the  leit-hand  carriage  road. 
By  adopting  this  route,  the  trees  will  be 
visited  in  the  following  order :  the 
"Three  Sisters"  on  the  left,  about  120 
yards  from  the  hotel.  Next  come  the 
''  Eagle,"  "  Calaveras,"  "  Three  Graces," 
"Marble  Heart,"  "Nightingale,"  "Pio- 
neer's Cabin,"  "  Mother  of  the  Forest," 
and  "  Father  of  the  Forest."  The  "  Ar- 
bor Vita?  Queen,"  335  feet  high,  said  to  be 
the  loftiest  tree  in  the  grove,  stands  near 
the  "  Fallen  Monarch,"  and  is  the  object 
of  much  curiosity.  "  Hercules,"  one  of 
the  most  gigantic  trees  in  the  forest, 
stands  leaning  in  our  path  ;  this  tree,  with 
others,  has  been  burned  at  the  base  ;  it  is 
326  feet  long  and  9*7  feet  in  circumference. 
A  group  of  seven  trees  stand  around  the 
prone  body  of  the  "  Father  of  the  Forest," 
the  two  largest  of  which  arc  respectively 

255 


Mammoth  Tree  Grove.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Columbia. 


18  and  20  feet  diameter  and  300  feet  high. 
South  of  "  Hercules,"  about  80  feet,  are 
several  young  trees,  from  2  to  4  feet  di- 
ameter.    Near  these  are  t^Y0  fallen  ones, 
of  very  large  size,  and  apparently  for  many 
years  down.     South  of  "  Hercules,"  about 
200  yards,  are  the  "  Mother  and  Son,"  and 
near  these  "  General  Scott."     Crossing  a 
small  bridge,  under  which  runs  the  limpid 
little  stream  that  drains  the  grove,  we  ob- 
serve on  the  hill-side  the  "  Old  Maid,"  and, 
120  feet  from  her,  the  "  Old  Bachelor." 
This  "Old  Maid"  is  60  feet  aiound  her 
waist  and  five  or  six  times  as  high  as  the 
tallest  Brobdignagian  lass  mentioned  by 
Gulliver.    We  next  come  to  the  "  Siamese 
Twins,"  and  a  nameless  tree  standing  op- 
posite them,  310  feet  high.     West  of  this 
tree  is  the  "  Granite  State,"  18  feet  diame- 
ter and  300  feet  high.     Close  at  hand  is 
a  group  of  three  ^Yhich  have  not  been 
named,  all  very  large  and  beautiful  trees. 
The  "Horseback  Kide"  "we  reach  next; 
this  is  an  old  fallen  trunk  of  150  feet  in 
length,  hollowed  out  by  the  fires  which 
have  in  days  gone  by  raged  through  the 
forest;  the  cavity  is  12  feet  in  the  clear 
in  the  narrowest  place,  and  a  person  can 
ride  through  on  horseback  a  distance  of 
'75  feet.    Passing  onward,  we  observe  sev- 
eral yew-trees  ;  from  this  timber  the  In- 
dians construct  their  bows,  it  being  ex- 
ceedingly close-grained  and  elastic.     The 
next    group    embraces    "  Vermont,"    the 
"Empire   State,"  "Old   Dominion,"  and 
"Uncle   Tom's    Cabin."      The    "George 
Washington"  is  near  these,  a  tree  21  feet 
in  diameter.     Twenty  feet  from  it  stands 
"The   Leaning   Tower,"  and  near  these 
two,  from  30  to  100  feet  off  the  road,  arc 
several  quite  young  trees.     On  the  west 
side  of  the  road  we  observe  the  "  Beauty 
of  the  Forest,"  a  magnificent  tree,  without 
a  blemish  in  its  growth,  and  300  feet  high. 
Kcar  it  stand  two  young  trees  about  6 
feet  each  in  diameter.     This  brings  us  to 
the  southern  verge  of  the  forest  in  sight 
of  the  hotel,  and  with  the  "  Two  Senti- 
nels"  looming  grandly  up    right   before 
us.     Ninety-odd  mammoth  trees  are  now 
standing.     Full   twenty  of   these  exceed 
25    feet   in   diameter   at   the   base,    and 
several  of  them  arc  more  than  300  icet 
in  height. 

After  i^eeing  the  Big  Trees  of  Calaveras, 
the  tourist  should,  if  possible,  visit  the 
256 


Naiural  Caves  and  Bridr/es  in  the  same 
county.  These  caves  are  situated  on 
what  is  called  McKinney's  Humbug,  a 
tributary  of  the  Calaveras  River,  near 
the  mouth  of  O'Xeill's  Creek,  14  miles 
west  of  the  Big  Trees,  16  miles  south  of 
Mokelumne  Hill,  and  9  miles  east  of  San 
Andreas.  The  bridG;es  ai-e  on  Cavote 
Creek,  midway  between  Valie-ita  and 
McLane's  Ferry,  on  the  Stanislaus  River. 
The  entire  water  of  Cayote  Creek  runs 
beneath  these  bridges.  The  bold,  rocky, 
and  precipitous  banks  of  the  stream, 
both  above  and  below  the  bridges,  pre- 
sent a  counterpart  of  wild  scenery  in 
perfect  keeping  with  the  strange  beauty 
and  picturesque  grandeur  of  their  interior 
formation. 

CoIeK}isil>ia.  —  Hotels,    Columbia, 
Mansio)i  Hoane. 

Returning  to  Murphy's  we  take  the 
stage,  via  Douglas  Plat,  crossing  the  Stan- 
islaus River  at  Abbey's  Ferry,  arriving 
at  Columbia  in  8  miles  from  Murphy's. 
Columbia  is  on  the  stage  line  from  San 
Andreas  to  Sonora.  Distance  from  Stock- 
ton, 04  miles,  from  San  Andreas  19  miles. 
Tlie  scenery  at  the  crossing  of  the  Stanis- 
laus  is  grand,  and  we  find  Columbia  one 
of  the  largest  and  finest  towns  in  the 
mining  region,  having  a  population  of 
some  2,000,  with  fine  brick  stores,  hotels, 
churches,  etc.  In  the  vicinity  many  large 
mining  operations  are  being  carried  on, 
^vhich  will  interest  the  traveller.  Beyond, 
a  little  over  a  mile,  is  the  thriving  village 
of  Springfield,  and  2  miles  farther  lies 
Shaw's  Flat,  another  important  pohit. 
Table  Mountain^  also,  is  well  worth  a 
visit.  Many  tunnels  are  foufid  piercing 
the  mo^itain  for  thousands  of  foet.  It  is 
a  formation  of  basaltic  lava,  and  to  the 
geologist  its  peculiar  formation  would  be 
of  much  interest. 

S  o  51  o  r  a. . — Hotels,  City,  Placer, 
United  Stales. 

Hourly  lines  of  stages  connect  Colum- 
bia with  Sonora,  the  county  seat  of  Tuo- 
lumne County,  distance  7  miles.  Sonora, 
one  of  the  most  important  mining  towns 
in  the  southern  mines,  contains  about 
2,700  inhabitants.  A  fine  court-house, 
several  churches,  three  or  four  good 
hotels,  and  many  fine  stores,  adorn  the 
place.  Daily  lines  of  stages  leave  and 
arrive  from   Stockton   and  Sacramento, 


COCLTKRVILLE.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Mariposa. 


with  many  routes  divergmg  north  and 
south  to  way-places. 

CoialtOH'ville. — Hotel,  Lafayette. 

We  will  now  take  the  staac  for  Coultci"- 
villc,  Mariposa  County,  passing  through 
Jamestown,  5  miles  ;  i'llontezuma,  9  miles ; 
Chinese  Camp,  1 1  miles ;  crossing  the 
Tuolumne  Kiver  at  Don  Pedro's  Bar,  25 
miles,  arriving  at  Coulterville  the  same 
day ;  distance  from  Sonora  40  miles. 
Coulterville  is  a  small  mining  town,  con- 
taining a  few  stores,  which  supply  the 
miners  in  the  vicinity.  It  is  on  one  of 
the  four  routes  to  the  famous  Yo-Semite 
Valley,  and  has  this  (as  it  will  prove  to 
many)  strong  recommendation,  that  it  can 
be  travelled  the  earliest  in  the  season. 
Carriages,  saddle-horses,  guides,  etc.,  can 
bo  had  of  Messrs.  Smith  &  Scott,  pro- 
prietors of  the  old-established  stables. 


TO 


MOUTE  r. 

THE    MABIPOSA     GROVES   AND 
THE  TO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


M  a  1'  i  p  o  s  a. — Hotels,  GischeVs, 
FranMin  House. — From  Coulterville  we 
can  reach  Mariposa  by  mules,  crossing  the 
Merced  River,  distance  29  miles ;  or  by 
returning  toward  the  plains  and  taking  a 
circuitous  route  by  stage,  50  miles.  Ma- 
riposa, the  county  seat  of  Mariposa 
County,  is  90  miles  from  Stockton,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  a  daily  line  of  sta- 
ges, the  trip  occupying  25  hours.  It  is  the 
most  southerly  of  all  the  mining  towns  of 
importance  in  the  State,  and  contains 
about  1,300  inhabitants.  There  are  valu- 
able quartz  leads,  and  rich  flat,  gulch,  and 
hill  diggings,  in  the  vicinity.  It  is  here, 
in  the  valley  of  the  Mariposa  Creek,  that 
the  celebrated  Fremont  Grant  is  located. 
There  is  a  good  trail  from  Mariposa  to 
the  Yo-Semite  Valley,  distant  51  miles, 
and  to  the  Big  Trees,  31  miles.  J.  R. 
McCieady  will  supply  good  livery. 

While  in  this  neighborhood,  the  traveller 
should  not  omit  to  visit  the  Mariposa  Grove. 
Though  not  so  well  known  nor  so  famous 
the   Calaveras    Grove,  it  nevertheless 


as 


forms  one  of  the  great  natural  Avonders 
of  the  State,  and  will  amply  repay  the  time 
and  labor  of  reaching  it.  It  is  distant 
from  Mariposa  31  miles,  and  from  Stock- 


ton 121  miles.  The  group  of  trees  cm- 
brace  about  GOO,  covering  between  200 
and  300  acres  of  land,  and  lie  in  a  trian- 
gular form.  They  were  first  discovered 
in  August,  1855.  The  South  and  Fresno 
Gi'ovcs,  the  latter  6  to  8  miles  distant  from 
the  Mariposa  Grove,  are  also  worth  visit- 
ing if  the  tourist  has  time. 


Tlie  ^  o-Scmite  Valley. 

Innumerable  lessons  to  relate 
And  myriad  voices  nishinsf  to  ba])tize 
These  chosen  lips,  which  send  into  the  skies 
Their  oracles,  to  awe  and  elevate. 

The  world's  chief  mouth-piece  is  this  marvelloua 
gate, 
That  lavish  nature  wholly  sanctifies 
"With  majesty  and  beauty.    Here  my  eyes 

Some  revelation  seem  to  penetrate — 

For  God,  begetting  mysteries  from  the  first, 
All-glorified,  stood  down  upon  the  rock. 
And  smiting  through,  the  curious  earth  was 
riven — 

A  thousand  silver  arteries  were  burst — 

The  mountains  staggered  from   the    fearful 

sliock — 
Her  heart  lay  bare  to  the  soft  eyes  of  Heaven. 

Routes,  Distances,  etc. — The  princi- 
pal starting-point  to  the  Yo-Semite  Valley, 
as  already  stated,  is  Stockton.  Thence  there 
are  four  main  routes,  viz. :  via  Big  Oak 
Flat,  Coulterville,  Bear  Valley,  and  J\Iari- 
posa.  That  by  Big  Oak  Flat  is  the  shortest 
and  affords  a  view  of  the  Golden  Rock 
Water  Co.'s  flume,  264  feet  high,  and 
2,200  feet  long.  That  via  Coulterville  can 
be  travelled  the  earliest  in  the  season,  and 
has  the  beautifully  unique  "  Bower  Cave  " 
on  the  way.  That  by  Bear  Valley  and  Mari- 
posa aftbrds  the  earhcst  opportunity  of 
visiting  the  Mariposa  Grove  of  Big  Trees, 
and  gives  the  best  general  view  of  the 
valley.  There  is  yet  another  rotite,  indi- 
rectly— that  via  Copperopolis  to  the  Cala- 
veras Big  Tree  Grove.  Going  via  Big  Oak 
Flat,  you  change  stages  at  Chinese  Camp; 
via  Coulterville,  change  at  the  Crimea 
House. 

From  Stockton,  via  Big  Oak  Flat : 

Milos. 

Copperopolis* ,36 

Chinese  Camp 15 

Jacksonville 4 

Big  Oak  Flat 8 

Sprague's   lianch 9^ 

Golden  Hock  Flume Si 

*  Parties  bound  for  the  Calaveras  Bi?  Trees, 
take  the  Murphy's  stage  at  Copptiopolis. 

257 


The  Yo-Semite.] 


CALIFORXIA. 


[The  Yo-Semite. 


Hardin's  Eanch 7 

Crane  Creek OJ 

■Dividing  IMdge H 

Tamarack  Flat 3 

Top  of  Mountain 3 

Foot  of  Monutaiu  (Yo-Semite) 2-J 

Forks  of  Trail,  near  Ferry 4j; 

Hutchings's li 

'       Total 108 

Murphy's 20 

Bii;  Trees 15 

Murphy's  to  Sonera 14 

Chinese  Camp l"i 

Big  Oak  Flat. 12 

Chinese  Camp  to  Coulterville,  via  Crimea 
House 27 

From  Stockton,  via  Coulterville. 

Knight's  Ferry 86 

Crimea  House 12 

Don  Pedro's  Bar 9 

Coulterville 14 

Bower  Cave 12 

Black's 5 

Deer  Flat 6 

Hazel  Green 6 

Crane  Flat 6 

Junction  of  Big  Oak  Flat  Trail 2f 

Tamarack  Flat 3 

Hutchings's Hi 

Total 122 

From  Stockton,  via  Bear  Valley  and  Ma- 
riposa. 

Morley's  (Tuolumne  Elver) 45 

Snellings 12 

Hornitos 12 

Bear  Valley 9 

Mariposa 12 

White  &  Hatch's 12 

Clark's  liauch  (South  Fork  Merced) 13 

To  Mariposa  Big  Trees,'  6  miles. 

Alder  Creek C^ 

Empire  Camp 3 

Westfairs  Cabin 8^ 

Ins[)iration  Point 5 

Foot  of  Trail 3 

Hutchings's 5 

Total 141 

rrociirinf:^  animals  at  Coulterville  for  the 
trip,  and  providing  ourselves  with  blankets 
and  provisions,  we  start  for  the  Yo-Scmite. 
Four  days  are  npe;led  to  do  the  trip  com- 
fortably and  prulit.djly.  At  a  distance  of 
]2  miles  is  Bower  Cave,  a  singular,  grotto- 
like formation,  that  lures  the  ti'aveller 
aside  for  a  few  moments.  Passing  on  to 
Deer  Flat,  23  miles  fiora  Coulterville,  we 
camp  for  the  night.  The  next  day  we 
reach  Crane  Flat,  12  miles  farther,  in  time 
258 


for  an  early  lunch.  Here  the  snow-clad 
Sierras  begin  to  rise  in  serrated  peakdi 
above  the  horizon.  To  the  right,  about 
2  miles  distant,  is  a  grove  of  mammoth 
oak-trees,  similar  to  those  in  Calaveras 
County,  but  fewer  in  number.  One  of 
these,  consisting  of  two  joined  at  their 
base,  is  called  the  Siamese  Twins,  and  is 
114  feet  in  circumference.  Two  hoars 
will  bring  us  to  Inspiration  Point,  9 
miles  beyond,  whence  we  first  look  down 
into  the  wonderful  cleft  of  the  Sier- 
ras called  the  Yo-Semite.  Descending 
into  the  valley,  it  is  7  miles  to  the  foot  of 
the  trail,  and  6  miles  thence  to  "  Hutch- 
ings's." After  resting  here  overnight,  we 
will  inspect  the  wonders  of  the  valley. 
The  Yo-Semite  valley  is  between  7  and  8 
miles  long,  rarely  exceeding  a  mile  in 
width,  walled  in  by  perpendicular  rocks 
from  3,000  to  5,000  feet  high  on  either 
hand.  The  Merced  Eiver,  which  winds 
through  the  grassy  meadows  at  the  bottom 
of  the  valley,  receives  several  tributaries, 
which  pour  over  these  granite  walls  at  vari- 
ous points,  forming  waterfalls  on  a  ma,2;nifi- 
cent  scale.  The  most  remarkable  of  these 
has  been  called  the  Yo-Semite  Fall.  It  de- 
scends in  two  unbroken  sheets,  the  upper 
one  1,600  feet  in  height,  and  the  lower  one 
GOO  feet,  while  the  rapids  between  the  two 
have  a  fall  of  434  feet,  giving  the  total 
height  2,634  feet.  Among  the  other  falls 
are  the  Fail  of  the  North  Fork  of  the 
Merced,  about  750  feet  high  ;  the  Pi-wy- 
ack,  or  Vernal  Fall,  about  300  feet  high  ; 
the  Yo-wi-ye,  or  Nevada  Fall,  about  700 
feet  high  ;  and  numerous  others  of  lesser 
note.  Not  the  least  remarkable  objects 
of  interest  are  the  two  domes,  presenting 
nearly  perpendicular  faces  on  opposite 
sides  of  the  valley.  The  North  Dome,  or 
To-coy-ee,  is  about  3,725  feet  high.  The 
South  Dome,  or  Tis-sa-ack,  is  6,000  feet, 
the  lower  two-thirds  of  which  is  a  sheer 
perpendicular  rock,  so  that  a  stone  tossed 
i'rom  its  top  would  fall  at  its  base.  The 
volume  of  water  pouring  over  the  varioii 
falls  v;iries  accordmg  to  the  season  of  th. 
year,  being  (piite  inconsiderable  in  tlv 
month  of  September ;  and  one  or  two  littK 
lakes  gem  the  valley.  As  much  curiosit\ 
is  felt  among  travellers  to  learn  the  j)rc 
cise  height  of  these  mountains  and  watc 
falls,  I  append  the  following  table,  care- 
fully comi^iled  from  official  sources : 


San  Jose,] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[San  Josiii 


TABLE  OF  ALTITUDES  IM  TO-SEMITE  VALLEY. 


WATERFALLS. 

TTcigJit 
Indian  name.  Signification.  American  name,  ahove  valley. 

Po-lio-no Spirit  of  the  evil  wind Bridal  Veil 940  feet. 

Lung-oo-too-koo-ya  . . .  .The  tall  and  slender  fall The  Ribbon  Fall. .  3,300  feet. 

Yo-Semite Large  grizzly  bear 2,634  feet. 

(First  fall,  1,600  feet;  second  full,  434  feet;   third  fall,  600  feet.) 

ri-wy-ack Cataract  of  Diamonds Vernal 350  feet. 

Yo-wi-ye. Meandering Nevada 700  feet. 

To-lcoi-we-ack South  Canon 600  feet. 


MOUNTAINS. 


Tis-sa-ack . 


Goddess  of  the  Valley,. Soiith  Dome.. . 

Cloud's  Rest . . . 

To-coy-ee Shade  to  Indian  Babj^Dasket.  .North  Dome. . . 

Mah-ta Martyr  Mountain Cap  of  Liberty. 

Sec-v.ah-lara . .    Mt.  Starr  King. 

Er-ua-ting  Law-oo-too.  .Bear-skin  Mountain Glacier  Rock.. . 

Tu-toch-ah  nu-iah Great  Chief  of  the  Valley El  Capitan 

Wah-wah-le-na Three  Graces . . , 

Pom-pom-pa-sus Mountains  playing  leap-frog Three  Brothers. 

Foo-see-nah  Chuck-ka.  .Large  acorn  cache Cathedral  Rock, 

Sentinel  Dome. . 

Sentinel  Rock . . 


Loya. 


.6,000 
.6,450 
.  3,725 
.4,600 
.5,600 
.3,700 
.3,800 
.3,750 
.4,200 
.2,400 
.4,000 
.3,270 


feet, 
feet, 
feet, 
feet, 
feet, 
feet, 
feet, 
feet, 
feet, 
feet, 
feet, 
feet. 


The  best  general  view  of  this  unrivalled 
valley  is  to  be  had  from  Inspiration  Point 
on  the  Mariposa  trail,  8  miles  from 
IlutcJdngsh. 


nOUTE   VI. 

/S4iV  FEAN-CISCO    TO   SAK  JOSE  AND 
THE  ALMADEN  MINES. 

From  San  Francisco  southward,  the 
traveller  has  choice  of  railway  or  steam- 
boat travel  to  San  Jose.  The  following 
are  the  stations  on  the  railway  line : 
Mission,  o\  miles ;  Bernal,  4t\  miles ; 
San  Miguel,  6J  miles  ;  San  Bruno,  14J 
miles  ;  San  Mateo,  20|  miles  ;  Belmont, 
25  miles  ;  Redwood  City,  28  miles  ;  May- 
field,  34^   miles ;    Mountain   View,    40| 


miles  ;  Santa  Clara  46^  mile; 


,  San  Jose, 


50  miles. 

^£uia  .B^ose. — Hotel,  the  Auzcrais 
House. 

A  daily  line  of  steamers  runs  to  Alviso, 
situated  on  a  slv^ugh  at  the  southern  ex- 
tremity of  the  bay,  and  there  connects  by 


Stages 


with   San  Jose,   7  miles  distant. 


This  is  a  deliglitful  trip  in  the  summer 
season.  From  Oakland,  opposite  San 
Francisco,  a  stage  runs  to  San  Jose,  via 
San  Lorenzo,  12  miles;  and  Warm 
Springs,  30  miles. 

San  Jose,  the  garden  city  of  California, 
is  situated  in  tlie  midst  of  a  very  fertile 
viUley.  It  is  the  third  city  of  the  State, 
contains  about  6,000  inhabitants,  and 
has  some  fine  public  buildings  and  many 
elegant  private  residences.  Besides  the 
beauty  of  the  valley  of  San  Jose  and  its 
climate  of  perpetual  spring,  its  gardens 
and  Artesian  wells,  many  places  in  the  vi- 
cinity are  worthy  of  a  visit,  especially  the 
Quicksilver  Mines,  and  the  Missions  of 
Santa  Clara  and  San  Joso.  The  New 
Almaden  mines  are  about  12  miles 
south,  and  Monterey,  on  the  coast, 
126  miles.  The  new  Court-House  is  a 
handsome,  commodious  structure  just 
completed.  It  is  the  largest  pubhc  build- 
ing of  its  kind  in  the  State,  The  Con- 
vent and  Sendv.ary  of  Noire  Damc^  and 
the  Cathedral^  the  College^  University,  and 
schools  in  the  adjoining  village  of  Santa 
Clara,  are  well  worth  visiting,  San  Jose 
and  Santa  Clara  are  connected  by  stage 

259 


YlSALIA,] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Los  Angeles. 


■R-ith  Santa  Cruz  (35  miles);  Lexington 
and  San  Juan  (42  miles) ;  jlonterey  (80 
miles). 

From  San  Jose  south v/ard  we  can 
select  between  the  route,  via  Hot  Springs 
and  Santa  Barbara  to  Los  Angeles,  or 
that  to  Visalia.  Proceeding  on  our  jour- 
ney by  the  latter,  we  emerge  from  the 
valley  of  the  Santa  Clara  River  thi^ough 
the  Facheco  Pass  in  the  Coast  Range, 
into  the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin. 
Travelling  up  the  western  side  of  the 
valley,  we  first  touch  the  river  at  Fire- 
baum's  Ferry,  165  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco. Continuing  on  the  same  side  Ave 
pass  the  great  bend  of  the  San  Joaquin, 
and  soon  reach  Fresno  City,  182  miles 
from  San  Francisco.  Crossing  the  little 
stream  which  seems  to  connect  Tulare 
Lake  with  the  San  Joaquin,  we  cross 
King's  Rivei',  40  miles  beyond,  and  soon 
arrive  at  Yisalia  248  miles  from  San 
Francisco,  and  192  miles  from  San  Jose. 

V  i  s  a  i  i  a  . — Hotels,  Exchange^ 
Warreri's. — This  is  the  only  town  of  much 
importauce  between  San  Jose  and  Los 
Angeles  on  the  Overland  Route,  and 
contains  about  1,200  iuhabitants.  It  is 
located  on  the  banks  of  the  Kaweah 
River,  about  18  miles  from  the  mountains 
on  the  east,  and  20  from  Tulaie  Lake  on 
the  west,  in  the  centre  of  a  larsfc  bodv  of 
oak  timber,  and  in  the  midst  of  a  rich 
alluvial  delta.  The  several  creeks  north 
and  south  of  Yisalia  in  its  immediate 
vicinity,  spread  out  on  the  large  meadows 
and  lose  themselves  and  their  channels 
beibre  reaching  the  great  Tulare  Lake, 
which  ordinarily  has  uo  well-defined  out- 
let itself.  The  Coso  silver  mines  lie 
about  100  miles  east,  and  arc  reached  by 
a  trail  over  the  Sierra  Nevada  ^lountains. 
Stage  lines  to  llornitas  (120  miles),  via 
Millerton's  and  Mariposa  Creek. 

Proceeding  southward,  we  cross  Tule 
River,  27  miles  ;  Kern  River,  87  miles ; 
arriving  at  Tcjon  Cafion,  128  miles  from 
Yisal'a,  and  376  from  San  Francisco. 

I'^orl  Tojoii. — Tcjon  Pass  is  at 
the  head  of  the  San  Joariuin  Valley. 
The  Coast  Range  and  Sierra  Nevada, 
gradually  converging,  join  at  this  point. 
A  fort  has  been  built  high  up  in  tliis  ro- 
mantic pass,  about  3,000  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  where  there  is  a  small 
spot  of  level  land  between  the  mountains, 
260 


with  fertile  soil,  grass,  a  pleasant  brook, 
and  fine  oak-trees. 

From  Tejon  Caiion  we  descend  into 
and  cross  the  arid  plains  of  Palm  Yailey, 
part  of  the  Great  Basin,  whose  waters 
never  find  the  sea.  Then  our  road  lies 
over  the  Coast  Range,  through  the  San 
Francisquito  Caiion  which  opens  into 
Santa  Clara  Yailey,  and  crossing  the 
Santa  Clara  River,  our  wav  lies  through 
the  San  Fernando  Pass,  over  a  spur  of 
the  Coast  Range,  whence  we  emerge  into 

0        7  O 

the  vine-clad  valley  of  the  Rio  Los  An- 
geles, and  in  a  few  hours  reach  the  "  City 
of  the  Angels,"  491  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, or  via  Hot  Springs,  San  Luis 
Obispo,  and  Santa  Barbara,  472  miles. 

]Los$  Asig-eles.  —  Hotels,  Bella 
Union^  La  Fayette.  —  Los  Angeles  is 
situated  near  the  foot  of  the  Coast  Range, 
on  the  Los  Angeles  River.  Most  of  the 
land  in  the  valley  which  can  be  iiTigated 
is  planted  with  vines.  The  city  contains 
about  5.000  inhabitants.  The  houses  are 
many  of  them  of  the  Spanish  style,  one 
story,  with  flat  roofs  covered  with  asphal- 
tum,  which  abounds  in  the  vicinity.  On 
the  northwestern  side  of  the  town,  and 
very  near  the  busiest  part  of  it,  is  a  hill 
about  60  feet  high,  whence  an  excellent 
view  of  the  whole  place  may  be  obtained. 
Along  the  banks  of  the  river  for  miles 
are  situated  the  vineyards  and  orange- 
groves,  the  pride  of  Los  Angeles.  Yast 
tracts  of  the  fertile  plains  and  river  bottoms 
are  irritrated  bv  the  waters  of  the  river, 
producing  every  variety  of  fruit  and  vege- 
table common  to  the  warm  and  temper- 
ate climes.  In  the  months  of  March 
and  April,  looking  over  these  fertile 
plains,  covered  with  the  richest  verdure, 
the  snow-clad  heights  beyond  contrast 
beautifully  with  the  flowers  at  their  feet. 
To  the  cast.  Mount  San  Bernardino  rises 
covered  with  snow,  SO  miles  distant.  Its 
altitude  is  about  8,000  feet,  and  it  marks 
the  site  of  the  pleasant  valley  in  whiih 
the  village  of  San  Bernardino  is  situated. 
Silver  lodps  of  more  or  less  promise  have 
been  discovered  in  various  parts  of  the 
neighboring  mountains.  A  rich  tin  mine 
has  been  discovered  at  Teraescal,  about 
00  miles  distant,  on  the  Overland  Route. 
The  San  Gabriel  i:)laccr  gold  mines  lie 
about  20  miles  to  the  northeast.  The 
sites  of  several  old  missions  are  in  Los 


San  Diego.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Santa  Barbara. 


Angeles  County.  From  Los  Angeles 
there  are  several  stage  lines,  aftbrding 
communication  ^vith  all  tovns  on  tlic 
coast  and  in  the  interior.  The  principal 
ot"  these  are  the  overland  line,  via  Tucson 
and  Prescott,  to  St.  Louis,  Mo. ;  the  San 
Piogoline,  via  San  Luis  Ifey  (9^  miles),  to 
San  Diego  (130  miles) ;  San  Bernvirdino 
lino,  via  Cocamongo,  to  San  Bernardino  (G5 
miles);  the  San  Pedro  line  (daily),  via  Los 
Cuervos  (1 1  miles),  to  San  Pedro  (26  miles); 
and  the  Clear  Creek  line,  via  San  Fer- 
nando (32  miles),  to  the  mines,  Havilah 
City  (140  miles).  The  route  from  Los 
Angeles  to  Prescott  and  Central  Ai-izona 
is  by  way  of  San  Bernardino  and  Ilardy- 
ville;  distance,  430  miles.  The  entire 
distance  from  San  Francisco  to  St.  Louis, 
by  the  Overland  Mail  Route  through  Los 
Angeles,  is  2,880  miles,  the  last  353  of 
which  is  performed  by  railroad.  The 
distance  is  usually  accomplished  in  22  to 
23  days.  The  traveller  can  obtain  meals 
at  way-stations,  which  occur  from  15  to 
40  miles  apart.  He  rides  night  and 
day  without  cessation,  soon  getting  used 
to  the  motion  of  the  stage  so  that  he 
can  get  refreshing  sleep  at  night,  and 
arrives  well  and  hearty  at  his  journey's 
end.  The  distance  from  Los  Angeles 
to  St.  Louis  is  2,390  miles,  divided  as 
follows  : 

From  Los  Angeles 

Miles.  Miles 

To  Fort  Yuma 2SS 

Tucsou 2S1  5G9 

El  Paso 839  90S 

Fori  Cliadbourne 428  1 ,886 

Eed  IM ver 884  1.720 

Fort  Smith 192  1,912 

St.  Louis 478  2,890 

From  Los  Angeles  a  pleasant  journey 
can  be  made  to  San  Diego  in  two  days. 
Setting  out  for  Anaheim,  30  miles,  we 
travel  along  the  coast,  passing  through 
San  Juan  Capistrano,  60  miles ;  San  Luis 
Rey,  93 ;  San  Dieginto,  105  ;  arriving  at 
San  Diego,  130  miles  from  Los  Angeles. 

^  sa  11  S>  i  e  g-  ©  , — Hotel,  FraoiMin 
Hottse. — San  Diego  is  a  small  town  of  500 
inhabitants,  situated  vipon  a  harbor  of  the 
same  name.  San  Diego  harbor,  next  to 
that  of  San  Francisco,  is  the  best  on  the 
coast  of  California,  being  well  protected, 
capacious,  and  having  a  fine  depth  of 
water.  There  is  nothing  remarkable 
about  the  town  or  surrounding  scenery. 


A  fine  grazing  country  lies  back  of  it, 
abounding  in  large  cattle-ranches.  San 
1  •iego  is  connected  with  San  Francisco  by 
an  ocean  steamer,  which  makes  two  trips 
a  month,  touching  at  the  intermediate 
ports  of  San  Pedro,  the  ports  of  Los  An- 
geles, Santa  Barbara,  San  Luis  Obispo, 
and  Monterey,  and  sometimes  Santa 
Cruz.  Should  the  traveller  prefer  to 
return  to  San  Francisco  by  land,  he  will 
find  the  route  along  the  shore  very 
pleasant,  full  of  beautiful  and  romantic 
scenery ;  the  mountains  of  the  Coast 
Range  and  its  spurs  rising  loftily  on  his 
right,  and  at  times  the  waves  of  the  sea 
dashing  at  his  feet.  In  proceeding  north- 
Avax-d  then,  the  first  point  of  interest  is 
Santa  Barbara,  about  180  miles  from 
San  Diego  by  water,  and  100  from  Los 
Angeles  by  land. 

Ssasttsa  ISs^i'ljsaa'fa, — Hotel,  City 
Hotel. — The  steamers  afford  a  fine  view  of 
the  coast,  as  they  pass  near  the  land  ; 
and  approaching  Santa  Barbara,  the 
view  is  very  imposing.  High  ranges  of 
mountains  bound  the  view  to  the  east- 
ward, while  the  beautiful  valley  in  which 
the  town  is  situated,  stretches  far  to  the 
northward,  finely  relieved  by  a  back- 
ground of  misty  mountains,  grand  in  out- 
line. This  place,  Avith  the  other  ports 
along  the  coast,  is  famous  for  the  hide 
business,  formerly  the  staple  product  of 
California.  Santa  Barbara  has  no  pro- 
tected harbor  like  San  Pedro,  and  other 
places  along  the  coast ;  it  is  only  an  open 
roadctead,  dnngerous  during  a  southeast- 
er, which,  however,  occurs  only  during 
the  rainy  season.  This  town,  like  Mon- 
terey and  the  other  old  places  in  Califoi'- 
nia,  retains  much  of  its  old  Spanish  look 
— the  buildings,  of  adobes  or  sun-dried 
bricks,  roofed  with  tiles,  presenting  a 
venerable  appearance.  A  ride  to  the 
Mission  of  Santa  Bai'bara,  about  three 
miles  distant,  is  replete  with  interest.  The 
climate  below  Point  Conception  (which 
lies  between  Monterey  and  Siaita  Bar- 
bara) is  quite  mild,  the  northwest  winds 
winds  which  prevail  in  the  vicinity  of  San 

in  this  latitude, 
our  way  up  the  coast,  we 
touch  the  shore  110  miles  above  Santa 
Barbara,  for  the  benefit  of  those  who 
wish  to  go  to  San  Luis  Obispo,  the  county 
seat  of  San  Luis  Obispo  County,  and  a 

261 


Francisco  not  being  felt 
Continuing  on 


Santa  Cruz.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Portland. 


small,  unimportant  Spanish  to\vn,  in  the 
mi(1>t  of  a  bcautirul  grazing  country. 

Mosatei'ey.  —  IIotel,  Washington. 
The  large  open  bay  of  Monterey  lies  about 
120  miles  north  of  San  Luis  Obispo,  and 
78  south  of  San  Francisco  by  water.  The 
town  of  Monterey  is  beautifully  situated 
upon  tlie  soutliern  extremity  of  this  bay. 
It  was  formerly  the  seat  of  government, 
and  principal  port  on  the  coast  of  Cali- 
fornia. But  since  the  rise  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, its  commerce  and  business  have 
dwindled  away,  and  now  it  is  one  of  the 
most  quiet  places  in  the  State,  contain- 
ing about  1,500  inhabitants.  The  view 
of  the  town  from  the  anchorage  is  very 
fine,  especially  if  visited  in  the  months 
of  April  or  May.  The  green  slopes  upon 
which  tlie  town  is  built,  contrast  beauti- 
fully with  the  forest  of  pines  which  grow 
upon  the  ridges  beyond.  The  Hocky 
Bluffs  afford  fine  views. 

Santa  Crii.25, — Hotel,  Exchange. 
It  is  20  miles  across  the  bay  from  Mon- 
terey to  Santa  Cruz,  the  county  seat  of 
Santa  Cruz  County.  The  town  contains 
about  800  inhabitants,  and  is  surrounded 
by  a  mountainous  country  covered  with 
immense  forests  of  redwood  timber.  The 
Mission  Church  is  an  object  of  interest. 
The  bluff  and  beach  afford  pleasant 
walks  or  drives.  The  distance  from 
Santa  Cruz  to  San  Francisco  by  water  is 
about  70  miles.  To  San  Jose  and  Santa 
Clara — delightful  watering-places — cross- 
ing the  Santa  Cruz  Mountains,  via  Sali- 
nas, Natividad,  and  San  Juan,  the  dis- 
tance is  80  miles. 


nouTE  rii. 

SA2^  FEANOISCO  UP  THE  COAST. 

Steamers  leave  San  Francisco  semi- 
monthly for  Oregon,  Washington  Terri- 
tory, and  Victoria,  in  the  British  posses- 
sions, touching  at  Mendocino,  Humboldt 
Bay,  Trinidad,  Crescent  City,  Fort  Oxford, 
Portland,  and  sometimes  Vancouver,  on 
the  Columbia  River,  and  various  points  on 
Puget  Sound,  and  Victoria  on  Vancouver's 
Island.  SaiUng  vessels  arc  also  constant- 
ly leaving  San  Francisco  for  Humboldt 
Bay,  Port  Oxford,  the  Columbia  River, 
Puget  Sound,  and  Vancouver's  Island. 
262 


Many  of  the  northern  mines  near  the 
coast  are  easily  accessible  from  Humboldt 
Bay,  Trinidad,  Crescent  City,  and  Port 
Oxford  in  Oregon,  the  gold  range  ap- 
proaching the  coast.  Coal  is  also  found 
in  immense  beds  in  the  vicinity  of  Coosa 
Bav,  Oregon.  Embarking  on  one  of  the 
Calhbrnia  Steam  Navigation  or  California 
and  Oregon  Steamship  Company's  lines  for 
a  trip  up  the  coast,  we  touch  at  Mendoci- 
no, or  pass  it,  130  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco ;  Humboldt  Bay,  upon  which  the 
thriving  towns  of  Eureka  and  Areata  are 
situated,  230  miles ;  arriving  at  Cre=;cent 
City,  some  300  miles  from  San  Francisco. 

Crescent  City. — Hotels,  Patchin 
Hoiise^  American.  —  Crescent  City,  the 
county  seat  of  Del  Norte  County,  is  a 
tliriving  place  of  some  600  inhabitants. 
Most  of  the  interior  mining  localiiiea 
through  a  considerable  range  of  country 
obtain  their  supplies  through  this  post. 
Extensive  veins  of  copper  have  been  dis- 
covered in  the  vicinity,  some  of  which 
have  been  worked  with  profit.  The  sur- 
rounding region  also  abounds  in  gold  and 
other  minerals,  but  for  want  of  systematic 
supplies  of  water  have  not  yet  been  much 
worked. 

Proceeding  north  we  touch  at  Port  Ox- 
ford (70  miles),  a  port  from  which  much 
lumber  is  exported;  Fort  Umpqua  (140 
miles),  near  the  mouth  of  L^mpqiia  River, 
which  drains  a  fertile  and  productive  valioy; 
and  arrive  at  Astoria  on  the  Columbia 
River,  some  300  miles  north  of  Crescent 
City,  and  about  600  miles  north  of  San 
Francisco.  The  scenery  of  the  Columbia 
River  is  wikl  and  grand  beyond  descrip- 
tion. Vessels  of  the  largest  size  proceed 
up  the  river  from  Astoria,  at  the  mouth, 
to  Vancouver,  a  distance  of  about  100 
miles,  and  l)eyond  to  the  falls  of  the  river, 
where  the  Cascade  Range  of  mountains 
cross.  Some  of  the  mountain  peaks  of 
the  Cascade  Range,  among  which  may  be 
mentioned  Jl fount  jlood,  Mount  JeffcrHO.% 
and  Mount  /St.  IMcns^  rival  those  of  the 
Andes.  Tliey  are  covered  with  perpetual 
snow,  and  can  be  seen  from  various  parts 
of  the  river. 

Portland,  the  chief  city  of  Oregon,  is 
situated  on  the  Willamette  River,  near 
its  confluence  with  the  Columbia,  and 
contains  about  8,000  inhabitants.  The 
Willamette  River,  flowing  north  between 


!ET  Sound.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Victoria. 


Coast  and  Cascade  RangeF5  of  moun- 
3,  empties   into   the  Columbiri  about 

miles  from  the  ocean.  The  valley 
he  Willamette  is  the  garden  of  Ore- 
,  and  con  til  ins  a  large  population  of 
nnnent  settlers,  many  of  u-hom  had 
ted  on  farms  some  time  before  the 
lenient  of  California  by  Americans 
anenced.  A  montli's  travel  to  the 
ous  places  and  points  of  interest  on 

Columbia  would  amply  repay  the 
•ist,  and  can  be  made  from  San  Fran- 

0  at  an  expense  of  from  150  to  200 
ars,    including   the    fare    each    way. 
•  continuation  of  the  route,  see  chap- 
on  Oregon  and  Washington.) 

*Mg-e4  Soioi€l.  —  Proceeding  up 
coast  we  find  no  other  seaport  till  we 
!h  Puget  Sound,  one  of  the  most  mag- 
'ent  harbors  in  the  world.  While  the 
id  is  so  deep  that  vessels  of  the 
vilest  burden  can  traverse  any  part 
;  with  safety,  it  is  nowhere  too  deep 
convenient  anchorage  ;  and  in  many 
es  vessels  can  ride  boldly  up  to  the 
'e  for  purposes  of  loading,  without 
intervention  of  wharves.     The  lumber 

1  some  of  the  saw-mills  on  the  sound 
lipped  in  this  v/ay.  Puget  Sound  is 
hed  by  a  daily  line  of  steamers  from 
:land,  Oregon,  to  Monticello,  Wash- 
on,  situated  on  the  Cowlitz  River,  2 
•s  above  its  mouth,  thence  by  stage 
)lympia  twice  a  week.  Entire  dis- 
e  from  Portland  to  Olympia,  92  miles. 
n  Olympia  the  route  is  continued  tri- 
■fly,  to  Victoria,  Vancouver's  Island, 
teamer  (New  World),  which  touches 
le  principal  landings  on  the  sound, 
culture  and  the  manufacture  of  lum- 
form  the  leading  interests  of  this 
m.  Four  thrifty  towns  have  sprung 
n  different  inlets  of  the  sound,  viz. : 
'.  Townscnd,  with  500  inhabitants  and 
I!ustom-House ;  Olympia,  with  1,000 
bitants,  the  capital  of  Washington 
itory,  situated  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
rb  water-power  of  Tum-water ;  Steila- 
.,  with  800  inhabitants;  and  Seattle, 

are  the  termini  of  trails  and  niili- 
roads  leading  through  the  Cascade 
^e  to  the  mineral  regions  beyond. 
ibyh  Island,  at  the  entrance  of  the 
d,  contains  many  fine  farms,  and  its 
mt  bluffs,  rising  boldly  from  the 
r's  edge,  are  very  beautiful  in  spring 


and  Slimmer.  Several  majestic  mountain 
peaks  are  visible  from  the  waters  of  the 
sound,  forming  some  of  the  most  sublime 
scenes  on  the  western  coast  of  America. 
Among  these  are  Mount  Baker,  Mount 
St.  IleloiR,  and  Mount  Rainier,  v/hose 
summits  are  from  12,000  to  15,000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  covered 
with  perpetual  snow.  Some  of  these 
have  shov.n  volcanic  action  within  tlie 
last  few  years.  Mount  Baker,  14,0()0 
feet  high,  was  in  active  eruption  in  1860. 
From  Port  Townsend  the  traveller  can 
reach  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  or  in- 
deed Sacramento  in  California,  without 
returning  by  the  ocean  route.  Proceed- 
ing by  steamer  to  the  head  of  the  sound 
at  Olympia,  or  by  stage  on  the  west  side 
of  the  sound  to  the  same  point,  he  can 
proceed  from  thence  through  the  Cowlitz 
farms  to  Vancouver  on  the  Columbia 
River.  Vancouver,  the  present  capital, 
is  one  of  the  most  promising  places  in 
Washington  Territory,  containing  about 
1,000  inhabitants  besides  the  soldiers  of 
the  United  States  military  post  stationed 
near.  The  distance  from  Vancouver  to 
Portland  is  18  miles,  and  the  entire  dis- 
tance from  Port  Townsend  to  Portland  is 
about  230  miles.  From  Portland  the 
daily  overland  mail  to  Sacramento  takes 
the  traveller  up  the  valley  of  the  Willa- 
mette, across  Unipqua  and  Rogue  Rivers 
to  Jacksonville,  and  thence  through 
Yreka,  Shasta,  and  Marysville  to  Sacra- 
mento, 642  miles  from  Portland,  making 
the  longest  stage  route  in  the  Union, 
with  the  exception  of  those  across  the 
continent  between  California  and  the  Mis- 
souri River.  The  eastern  slope  of  the 
Cascade  Range  in  Washington  Territory, 
though  but  partially  developed,  gives 
indications  of  great  mineral  wealth. 
The  Wenatchee,  Samilkameen,  and  Rock 
Creek  gold  regions,  have  attracted  many 
adventurers,  and  yielded  their  treasures 
bountifully.  From  Steilacoom  a  military 
wagon-road  leads  through  a  pass  in  the 
Cascade  Range  to  Walla-Walla,  250  miles 
southeast  on  the  Columbia  River.  Be- 
yond Walla-Walla  lies  the  Nez  Perces 
gold  region. 

Victoria,  on  Vancouver  Island,  the 
principal  town  of  the  British  posses- 
sions, contains  about  3,000  inhabitants. 
It  is  the  entrepot  of  goods  for  Fraser 

263 


Routes.] 


CALirORXIA. 


[Routes. 


River.  The  gold  diggings  of  the  latter 
are  still  l)eing  successfully  worked.  New 
Wesiminster,  the  capital  of  British  Co- 
lumbia, and  next  to  Victoria  the  largest 
town  in  the  British  dominions  on  the 
Pacific,  is  situated  on  Fraser  River,  near 
the  head  of  navigation.  The  mines  and 
inhabitants  are  protected  from  the  depre- 
dations of  Indians  by  the  presence  of 
soldiers  at  Fort  Hope,  Fort  Yale,  etc. 
(See  chapters  on  Oregon  and  Washing- 
ton Territory.) 


BtTMMARY    OF  KOIJTES  FROM   SAN  FKANCISCO   TO 

Miles. 

Mendocino 128 

Eureka 225 

Trinidad 240 

Crescent  City 2S0 

Port  Oxford   340 

Fort  Umpqua 400 

Astoria 558 

Portland (>42 

Vancouver 682 

Victoria 753 

Port  Townsend 7T3 

Seattle 810 

Steilacoom 836 

Olympla 855 

Santa  Cruz 80 

Monterey 92 

San  Luis  Obispo 200 

Santa  Barbara 2S8 

San  Pedro 373 

Los  An.ijeles 395 

San  Diego 456 

San  Quentin 15 

Petaluma 4S 

Ilealdsburg j  32 

Geysers ; (50 

Sonoma 45 

ValU'jo 25 

Napa 50 

Sulphur  Springs 18 

Suisun 60 

Benicia 30 

Saci-amento 120 

Stockton 120 

Alviso 45 

San  Jos6 52 

Santa  Clara 54 

lied  wood  City 80 

Visalia 248 

Fort  Tejon 376 

Los  Angeles 49 1 

Fort  Yuma 779 

Tucson 1060 

Me?illa 13.^)3 

KI  Paso 1399 

Mon  tercy 130 

Oakland 8 

SUMMARY  OP  ROUTES  FROM  STOCKTON  TO 

Miles. 

Mokelumne  Uil! 50 

San  An<lreas 45 

Murphy's (;C, 

Big  Trees 81 

264 


Knight's  Ferry 36 

Sonora 64 

Columbia C8 

Coulterville 85 

Yo-Semite 130 

Mariposa 91 

SUMMARY  OF  ROUTES  FROM  SACRAMENTO  TO 

Miles. 

Marysville \  ^ 

Colusa 120 

Red  Bluir 275 

Nevada 70 

Auburn 40 

Folsom 22 

Alabaster  Cave 35 

Placerville 50 

Lake  Tahoe 110 

Carson  City 145 

Virginia  City 163 

Jackson 50 

Mokelumne  Hill. 55 

Sonora 80 

Stockton 45 

Napa 61 

SUMMARY   OF  ROUTES  FROM  MARYSVILLE  TO 

Miles. 

Oroville 23 

Red  Bluff 92 

Shasta 128 

Yreka 2:56 

Downieville 76 

Nevada 40 

Auburn 40 

Colusa 23 

All  the  numerous  rahiing  towns  in  the 
counties  of  Calaveras,  Tuolumne,  Stanis- 
laus, Merced,  Mariposa,  etc.,  can  be  reach- 
ed by  one  or  other  of  the  above  routes,  or 
by  lines  of  coaches  in  connection  with  the 
above,  departing  and  arriving  with  excel- 
lent dispatch.  As  times  of  departure 
and  arrival,  kinds  of  conveyance  and  fares, 
however,  are  subject  to  frequent  cliange, 
it  will  always  be  advisable  for  the  travel- 
ler to  consult  local  authorities  on  these 
points. 

RAILROADS. 

Miles. 

Central  Pacific — Sacramento  to  Cisco 93 

Sacramento  Valley — Sacramento  to    Fol- 
som    22J^ 

riaeerciUe  and  Sacramento  Valley — Fol- 
som to  Shingle  Si)rings 26 

CiiU/ornia  Central — Folsom  to  Lincoln. . .  21 

Yuha — Lincoln  to 16 

Xorthern  California — Marysville  to  Oro- 
ville    26 

San  Francisco  and  San  Jotse — San  Fran- 
cisco to  San  Jose 50 

Western  Facific — San  Jos6  to  Alameda  Ca- 

flon 20 

San  Francisco  and  Alameda — Encinal  to 

Hay  ward's 11 

Xapa  Valley — Suscol  to  Napa 4 

Oakland — Oakland  Point  to  San  Antonio..    6 


Oregon.] 


OREGON. 


[Oregon. 


OREGO:^. 


Oregon  was  organized  as  a  Territory 
August  16,  1848,  and  was  admitted  into 
the  Union  as  a  State,  February  16,  1859. 
It  lies  upon  the  Pacific,  north  of  Califor- 
nia, and  contains  an  area  of  95,274  square 
miles.  The  first  visit  of  the  white  race  to 
Oregon  was  in  11^5,  when  a  Spanish  voy- 
ageur  entered  the  Juan  del  Fuca  Straits. 
Three  years  afterward  (1'778),  the  cele- 
brated navigator,  Captam  Cook,  sailed 
along  its  shores.  In  1791  the  waters  of 
the  Columbia  River  were  discovered  by 
Captain  Gray,  of  Boston.  An  expedition, 
or  exploring  party,  was  sent  out  in  the 
year  1804  by  the  United  States,  com- 
manded by  Lewis  and  Clark,  who  wintered 
in  1805-'6  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia. 
From  that  period  the  coast  has  been  the 
resort  of  both  English  and  American  fur- 
traders.  By  the  treaty  concluded  with  Great 
Britain  in  1846,  this  great  territory,  which 
had  up  to  that  time  been  jointly  occupied 
by  English  and  American  adventurers,  was 
divided — the  one  taking  the  portion  above 
the  parallel  of  49*^  north  latitude,  and  the 
other  all  the  country  south  of  that  line. 
,  Emigration  to  Oregon  was  earnestly 
commenced  in  1839,  the  first  settlers 
crossing  through  the  South  Pass  into 
Willamette  Valley.  For  some  years  the 
settlement  of  the  country  was  retarded  by 
the  more  brilliant  attractions  of  Califor- 
nia, though  the  ultimate  result  of  this 
neighborship  will  be  to  stimulate  develop- 
ment. 

Washington  Territory,  on  the  north, 
was  a  part  of  Oregon  until  the  year  1853, 
when  it  was  erected  into  a  distinct  govern- 
ment. 

The  coast  of  Oregon,  viewed  from 
the  sea,  is,  like  that  of  California,  stern 
and  rockbound,  except  that  while  in  the 

12 


latter  region  the  nearer  mountains  follow 
the  line  of  the  shore,  in  Oregon  they  ap- 
proach the  ocean  at  a  great  angle.  The 
lower  or  Pacific  country  occupies  an  area 
of  from  75  to  120  miles  wide,  in  which  lie 
the  great  valleys  of  Willamette,  Umpqua, 
and  Eogue  Rivers.  Though  the  valley 
lands  of  the  Willamette  and  the  adjacent 
regions  are  extremely  fertile,  yet  the 
greater  portion  of  Oregon  is  not  well 
adapted  for  tillage.  Nature  here  assumes 
its  sublimest  forms,  and  the  scenery  is 
among  the  grandest  to  be  found  on  the 
entire  continent.  Heavy  rains  usually 
prevail  in  December,  January,  and  Febru- 
ary, at  which  season  the  roads  are  well- 
nigh  impassable.  The  climate  here,  as 
on  all  the  Pacific  coast,  is  milder  than 
in  corresponding  latitudes  near  the  At- 
lantic. The  winters  are  comparatively 
brief,  and  the  snows,  when  snow  falls 
at  all,  are  very  light.  Oregon  is  prolific 
in  grain,  grass,  fruit,  and  timber.  Gold  is 
found  in  various  parts  of  southern  Oregon, 
and  silver,  lead,  and  copper  in  the  Cas- 
cade Mountains.  Coal  is  abundant  at 
Coose  Bay  and  other  points.  Iron  is  to 
be  had  in  abundance  within  a  few  miles 
of  Portland.     (See  Routes.) 

Rivers.  —  T  li  e  C  o  1  la  im  1>  i  a 
Hiver,  of  Oregon,  is  the  greatest  on  the 
Pacific  slope  of  this  continent.  It  rises 
in  a  small  lake  among  the  western  accliv- 
ities of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  flows  in 
a  devious  course  1,200  miles  to  the  Pa- 
cific, foi-ming  a  great  portion  of  the  divid- 
ing line  between  Oi^egon  and  Washington 
Territory  on  the  north.  Its  first  meander- 
ings  are  northward  along  the  base  of  its 
great  hill  ranges,  and  afterward  its  course 
is  due  west  to  the  sea,  though  very  capri- 
ciously.    It  is  a  rapid  river,  pushing  its 

265 


"Willamette  Valley.] 


OREGOX. 


[Mount  Hood. 


way  through  mighty  mountain  passes,  and 
in  many  a  cataract  of  marvellous  beauty. 
In  its  course  through  the  Cascade  Range, 
it  fulls  into  a  series  of  charming  rapids, 
which  may  be  numbered  among  the  chief 
natural  attractions  of  the  country.  The 
tide  sets  up  to  this  point,  140  miles. 
For  SO  or  40  miles  from  its  mouth,  the 
Columbia  spreads  out  into  a  chain  of  bay- 
like expansions,  ["rom  4  to  7  miles  or  more 
in  width.  Its  average  width  is  less  than 
a  mile.  The  shores  are  lined  with  grand 
mountain  heights,  making  the  landscape 
everywhere  extremely  interesting  and 
impressive.  We  should  far  exceed  our 
present  opportunity  in  attempting  even 
the  briefest  catalogue  of  the  pictures  on 
these  noble  waters.  "Vessels  of  200  or 
800  tons'  burden  may  ascend  to  the  foot 
of  the  cascades,  of  which  we  have  already 
spoken.  Above  this  point  the  river  is 
navigable  for  small  vessels  only,  and  but 
at  intervals  in  its  course. 

'FIte  ^Vill^siictte  ISiver  flows 
from  the  foot  of  the  Cascade  Range,  200 
miles,  first  northwest,  and  then  north  to 
the  Columbia,  8  miles  below  Fort  Van- 
couver. Its  Avay  is  through  the  beautiful 
valley  lands  which  bear  its  name,  and 
upon  its  banks  are  Oregon  City,  Portland, 
Corvalhs,  Eugene  City,  and  other  thriving 
places.  Ocean  steamers  ascend  15  miles 
to  Portland.  Ten  miles  beyond  this 
point,  a  series  of  fine  falls  occur  in  the 
passage  of  the  river,  above  which  the 
waters  are  again  navigable,  perhaps  60 
miles,  for  small  steamboats.  The  Falls 
of  the  WilLimette  is  a  famous  place  for 
the  capture  of  the  finest  snlmon.  Among 
the  tributaries  of  tlie  Willamette  are  the 
Tualatin,  Yamhill,  La  Creole,  Luckamute, 
Long  Tom,  and  Mary  Rivers,  comiugfrom 
the  base  of  the  Callapoosa  and  Coast 
Range  Mountains,  and  the  McKenzie, 
Santiam,  Pudding,  and  Clackamus  from 
the  Cascade  Range. 

Tlic  Valley  of  llie  \¥iila- 
R»cltc  is  a  most  fertile  region,  and  very 
attractive  in  its  natural  curiosities.  It 
is  50  miles  by  100  in  extent,  and  sub- 
sists nearly  one-half  of  the  entire  popula- 
tion of  the  State.  Many  remarkable 
instances  are  to  be  found  here  of  those 
eccentric  mountain  formations  known  as 
Beetlers — huge,  conical,  insulated  hills, 
Near  the  mouth  of  the  Coupe  River,  there 
266 


are  two  of  these  heights,  which  tower  up 
1,000  feet,  but  half  a  mile  removed  from 
each  other  at  their  base.  They  are  called 
Plsgah  and  Siruii.  They  stand  in  the 
midst  of  a  plain  of  many  miles  in  extent. 
At  a  point  near  theRickreall  River,  in  the 
Willamette  Valley,  no  less  than  seven 
snow-capped  peaks  of  the  Cascade  Range 
may  be  seen. 

1?iie  Cascacle  l£aaig-e  includes 
some  of  the  loftiest  mountain  peaks  in 
the  United  States,  among  which  are  Mount 
Hood,  Mount  Jefferson,  and  Mount  Pitt. 
The  first  of  this  grand  trio  has  a  volcanic 
crest  14,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.*  Between  the  Blue  Mountains  and 
the  Cascade  Range  lie  a  number  of  small 
lakes. 

The  view  from  the  summit  of  Mount 
Hood  is  thus  described  by  a  recent  visit- 
or: "From  south  to  north,"  he  says, 
"its  whole  line  is  at  once  under  the 
eye  from  Diamond  Peak  to  Ranier,  a 
distance  of  not  less  than  400  miles. 
Within  that  distance  are  Mounts  St.  Hel- 
en, Baker,  Jefferson,  and  the  Three  Sis- 
ters, making,  with  Mount  Hood,  eight 
snowy  mountains;  Eastward  the  Bluo 
Mountains  are  in  distinct  view  for  at  least 
500  hundred  miles  in  length,  and  lyinf* 
between  us  and  them  are  the  broad  plain 
of  the  Des  Chutes,  John  Day's,  and  Uma- 
tilla Rivers,  150  miles  in  width.  On  the 
west,  the  piny  crests  of  the  Cascades  cut 
clear  against  the  skv,  with  the  Willamette 
Valley  sleeping  in  quiet  beauty  at  their 
feet.  The  broad  belt  of  the  Columbia 
winds  gracefully  through  the  evergreen 
valley  toward  the  ocean.  Within  tliese 
wide  hmits  is  every  variety  of  mountain 
and  valley,  lake  and  prairie,  bold  beetling 
precipices,  and  graceful  rounded  summits, 
blending  and  melting  away  into  each 
other,  forming  a  picture  of  unutterable 
magnificence.  On  its  northern  side, 
Mt.  Hood  is  nearly  vertical  for  7,000  feet ; 
tliere  the  snows  of  winter  accumulate 
until  they  reach  the  very  summit,  but, 
when  the  summer  thaw  commences,  all 
this  vast  body  of  snow  becomes  disinte- 

*  The  followin<r  altitudes  were  computed  by 
Profepf  or  Wood,  in  a  recent  surA'cy  and  explor- 
ation :  "At  the  summit  of  the  Cascade  Kauge, 
and  foot  of  Mount  Hood  proper,  4,400  feet ;  at 
the  limit  of  forest  trees,  about  9,000  feet ;  at  the 
highest  limit  of  Te<;ctatiou,  11,000  feet;  at  the 
summit  of  the  mountain,  17,000  feet. 


Portland.] 


OREGON' 


[Dalles  City. 


grated  at  once,  and,  in  a  sweeping  ava- 
lanche, caiTying  all  before  it,  buries  itself 
in  tlic  deep  furrows  at  its  base,  and  leaves 
the  precipice  bare." 

l^orest  Trees. — Oregon,  like  Cal- 
ifornia, is  famous  for  its  wonderful  tbrest 
growth.  The  Lambert  pine,  a  species  of. 
fir,  sometimes  reaches,  in  the  low^er  part 
of  the  country,  the  magnificent  height  of 
300  feet. 

POETLAND. 

Hotels,  ArriggonPs,  What  Cheer,  Lin- 
coln, Westei^n,  and  JVew  Columbian. 

Portland,  the  largest  and  most  impor- 
tant to.wn  in  Oregon,  is  pleasantly  lo- 
cated upon  the  west  bank  of  the  Willa- 
mette River,  at  the  head  of  ship  naviga- 
tion, 15  miles  from  its  entrance  into  the 
Columbia,  and  about  111  miles  from  the 
ocean.  The  distance  to  San  Francisco 
by  land  is  642,  and  by  Vv'ater  652  miles. 

The  city  stands  on  a  plateau,  which 
gradually  increases  in  height  as  it  recedes 
from  the  river,  until  it  forms  a  range  of 
hills  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  city. 
Prom  the  summit  of  this  range  a  fine 
view  is  obtained  of  Mounts  Hood,  Jefler- 
son,  and  St.  Helen,  of  the  Cascade  Range 
and  the  windings  of  the  Columbia  and  Wil- 
lamette Rivers.  The  city  is  the  centre  of  a 
large  and  prosperous  ti-ade  wiih  the  State 
east  of  the  Cascade  Range,  Mount  Hood, 
and  the  adjoining  Territories  of  Wash- 
ington and  Idaho.  It  was  founded  in 
1845,  by  Messrs.  Pettigrew  and  Lovejoy. 
The  former  was  from  Portland,  Maine, 
after  which  the  place  is  named.  It  con- 
tains between  1,200  and  1,300  buildings, 
and  a  population  of  nearly  7,000.  The 
State  Penitehilary  and  the  Prcshyteriaji 
and  Calliolic  Churches  are  commodious  edi- 
fices. The  Portland  Library  Association 
has  its  rooms  at  66  First  Street.  Twenty 
river  steamers  ply  between  Portland  and 
the  various  towns  on  the  Willamette  and 
Columbia  Rivers.  The  principal  lines  are 
those  to  Eugene  City  (200  miles),  Jeffer- 
son (166  miles),  Scio  Landing  (122  miles), 
and  to  the  Dalles  (115  miles).  Stages  daily 
to  Sacramento,  California,  distant  642 
miles. 

A  daily  line  of  steamers  (0.  S.  N.  Co.) 
leaves  Portland  for  the  Lower  Cascades 
of  the  Columbia  (65  miles),  passing  Cape 
Horn  and  Castle  Rock;  thence  by  rail 


five  miles  to  the  Upper  Cascades,  whence 
the  traveller  can  again  take  boat  on  the 
river  for  the  Dalles.  In  the  language  of 
an  old  resident  of  the  valley,  "No  pen 
can  do  justice  to  the  imposing  grandeur 
and  sublimity  of  the  scenery  presented 
in  the  passage  through  the  Cascade 
Mountains." 

l>siiles  City,  or  "The  Dalles,"  is 
a  thriving  town  of  2,000  inhabitants,  on 
the  south  bank  of  the  Columbia,  120 
miles  east  of  Portland.  A  railway,  15 
miles  long,  connects  it  with  Celilo,  on  the 
Columbia.  The  river  at  the  Dalles  is  con- 
fined between  basaltic  cliff's  in  a  channel 
less  than  100  yards  wide.  A  fine  view 
of  Mount  Hood  is  here  obtained. 

From  Celilo  eastward  the  tourist  may 
profitably  pursue  his  trip  to  Umatilla  (97 
miles),  Wallula  (110  miles),  Walla- Walla 
(140  miles),  and  Lewnston,  Idaho  (223 
miles).  Umatilla  may  be  fairly  regarded  as 
the  head  of  certain  navigation  on  the  Co- 
lumbia. Hence,  and  from  Wallula,  daily 
stages  run  over  the  Blue  Mountains  to 
Boise  and  towns  in  Idaho.  (See  Sum- 
mary OF  DISTANCES,  CtC.) 

§t.  MeleiB.  stands  upon  a  rocky 
bluff  on  the  west  side  of  the  Columbia, 
30  miles  from  Portland.  The  river  is 
here  a  mile  wide,  and  forms  a  fine  harbor. 

Oreg'OM  City.  —  Hotel,  United 
States. — Oregon  City,  the  former  capital 
of  the  Territory,  is  upon  the  V/illamette, 
hidden  in  a  narrow,  high-walled  valley  or 
canon.  Falls  on  the  river  at  this  point 
afford  fine  manufacturing  facilities  to  the 
growing  settlement.  The  manufacture 
of  blankets  and  cloths  is  extensively  car- 
ried on. 

^jfileiM.  —  Hotels,  Bennett  House, 
Marion  Hotel. — Salem,  the  capital  of 
Oregon,  is  on  the  Willamette  River,  50 
miles  above  Oregon  City.  Population, 
2,000. 

Astoria,  named  in  honor  of  its 
founder,  John  Jacob  Astor,  is  on  the 
south  side  of  the  Columbia  River,  some 
10  miles  from  its  mouth.  This  was  at 
one  time  an  important  fur-depot. 

EOUTES,  DISTANCES,  ETC. 

Miles. 

Portland  to  Lower  Cascades, , 65 

Across  Portage 5 

Upper  Cascades  to  Dalles 45 

115 

267 


KOUTES,] 


OEEGOX. 


[Routes. 


Boats  run  daily : 

Miles- 
Dalles  to  Celilo 15 

Celilo  to  Wallula 110 

Wallula  to  Walla- Walla 30 

155 
Boats  run  3  times  a  week  : 

Dalles  to  Umatilla Ill 

Wulla- Walla  to  Lewistoii 83 

Stages  run  3  times  a  week: 

Lewiston  to  Florence 120 

Lewiston  to  Elk  City 142 

Lewiston  to  Oro  Mno S3 


CANON   CITY   TO   DALLES  : 

Miles. 

Walllia£ran''s  Eanch IT 

South  Fork IT 

Eock  Creek IT 

Mountain  House 9 

Alkali  Flat 14 

Muddy 22 

Antelope  Valley 16 

Buck  Hollow 15 

Haystack 12 

Cold  Sprinii^ 10 

Dixon's  Bridge 15 

Dalles 13 


Stages  I'un  3  times  a  week. 
268 


ITT 


WALLA-WALLA  TO  PLACERVILLE  : 
(Boise  Jfines.) 

Mils'?. 

Walla- Walla  to  W.  W.  Ei ver 33 

Liukton's  Mill 9 

Mountain  House 12 

Phillips 13 

Willow  Creek 11 

Ilendershott's 16 

Uniontown 6 

Pyles 6 

Quigley's 12 

Bouldock's 13 

Illinois Ifi 

Express  Eanch 12 

Stout  and  Moody's 14 

Miller's 10 

Olds's  Ferry 6 

Weiser  Eiver 15 

Galena 20 

Payeito  Eanch 15 

Burners' 15 

Schaeffer's 12 

Placerville 16 

262 

Placerville  to  Centreville 4^ 

Placerville  to  Idaho  City 18 

Placerville  to  Pioneer  Citv 9 

Idaho  City  to  Boise  City.1 30 

Boise  City  to  Owyhee 55 

Boise  City  to  South  Boise 85 

Idaho  City  (by  trail)  to  South  Boise ,   52 

Stages  run  regularly  to  all  the  above-named 
places,  except  South  Boise. 


Wash.  Tkkritory.]  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. 


[OLYMriA.. 


"WASHmGTO^    TEEEITOET. 


Washington  Territory,  until  recently 
a  part  of  Oregon,  occupies  the  extreme 
northwest  corner  of  the  domain  of  the 
United  States.  Its  greatest  extent  is 
about  600  miles  from  east  to  west  and 
200  from  north  to  south.  On  the  north, 
it  is  separated  from  British  America  by 
the  Straits  of  Juan  del  Fuca,  The  Rocky 
Mountains  lie  on  its  eastern  boundary, 
Oregon  on  the  south,  and  the  Pacific 
Ocean  on  the  west.  The  general  appear- 
ance of  this  region  is  very  similar  to  that 
of  Oregon — traversed,  as  both  countries 
are  by  the  same  mountain  ranges  and 
rivers.  The  Columbia  traverses  the  Ter- 
ritory, dividing  it  into  unequal  parts  and 
Separating  it  from  Oregon  on  the  south. 
Mount  Olympus,  the  chief  peak  here  of 
the  Coast  Range,  is  8,197  feet  high, 
covered,  like  most  of  the  summits  of  the 
region,  with  perpetual  snows.  Mount 
St.  Helen,  one  of  the  spurs  of  the  Cas- 
cade Range,  has  an  elevation  of  12,000 
feet ;  and  Mount  Rainier,  on  the  same 
chain,  rises  13,000  feet.  Mounts  Adams 
and  Baker  are  other  grand  peaks  of  the 
Cascade  Range.  This  Range,  which 
crosses  the  Territory  from  north  to  south 
100  miles  from  the  coast,  is  a  continua- 
tion of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  It  is  from 
40  to  60  miles  wide  at  its  base,  and 
has  an  average  elevation  of  6,000  feet. 
Spurs  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  are  scat- 
tered through  the  eastern  portion  of 
the  Territory.  The  chief  source  of 
wealth  to  the  people  of  Oregon  at  pres- 
ent is  in  the  utilization  of  their  immense 
forests  of  fir,  and  spruce,  and  cedar, 
though  by  and  by,  as  the  land  becomes 
cleared,  it  can  be  made  productive  by 
agricultural  industry,  especially  in  the 
culture  of  grass  and  raising  of  live-stock. 


The  mammoth  trees  of  California  and  Ore- 
gon are  found  also  in  this  region.  The 
wilds  of  Washington  Territory  abound  in 
elk,  deer,  and  other  game.  Wild  fowl, 
also,  of  many  varieties,  are  plentiful ;  and 
in  no  part  of  the  world  are  there  finer 
fish  than  may  be  caught  here.  The 
rivers  of  Washington  are  rapid  mountain 
streams,  replete  with  picturesque  beauty 
in  bold  rocky  cliffs  and  precipices,  and  in 
charming  cascades. 

The  readiest  route  to  Washington  from 
Oregon,  which  should  be  first  visited,  is 
by  steamer  down  the  Willamette  and 
Columbia  Rivers,  50  miles,  and  up  the 
Cowlitz,  two  miles,  to  Monti  cello.  Thence 
stage-wagons,  twice  a  week,  perform  the 
service — not  always  a  very  agreeable 
one — of  transporting  the  traveller  to 
Olympia,  40  miles.  Between  Monticello 
and  Olympia  are  seen  some  of  the  grand- 
est woods  on  the  continent.  Here,  in  the 
words  of  a  late  traveller  in  that  region, 
is  the  forest  primeval,  thick  with  slender 
pine,  fir,  hemlock,  spruce,  cedar,  and 
arbor  vitse,  the  trunks  gloved  in  moss  of 
orange-green,  the  branches  hung  with 
brown  Spanish  moss,  the  ground  white, 
yellow,  and  purple,  with  luxuriant  flowers. 

Olyanpiii,  the  capital  of  Washing- 
ton Territory,  stands  on  the  east  side  of 
Tenalquet's  River,  at  its  entrance  into 
Puget's  Sound,  in  the  extreme  western 
or  Pacific  section,  esteemed  as  the  best 
part  of  the  country.  The  other  prin- 
cipal towns  and  settlements  of  this  Ter- 
ritory are  Nesqually,  Steilacoom,  Seat- 
tle, Port  Townsend,  New  York,  and  New 
Dungeness,  on  Puget's  Sound  and  Ad- 
miralty Inlet ;  Pacific  City,  Catalamet, 
Fort  Vancouver,  Monticello,  and  Cascade 
City,  on  the  Columbia  River  ;  Wabassport 

269 


PuGET  Sound.] 


Yf  ASHIXGTON  TERRITORY. 


[  Victoria. 


and  Co'svlitz  Farm?,  on  the  Cowlitz  Riv- 
er ;  and  JPenn's  Cove,  on  Whidby's  Isl- 
and. 

The  easiest  and  most  comfortable  way 
to  see  the  different  towns  and  points  of 
interest  in  the  Territory  is  to  take  steam- 
er (Xew  World)  from  Portland  do\^Ti  Pu- 
get's  Sound.  This  is  one  of  the  loveliest 
sheets  of  water  on  the  continent.  It  has 
1,400  miles  of  navigation,  and  is  bounded 
by  solemn  pine  forests  sentinelled  by  snow- 
capped mountain  peaks.  Hundreds  of 
islands  dot  its  shining  surface,  while 
its  clear  depths  are  almost  transpai-ent. 
The  mountain  views  from  the  sound 
will  engross  the  tourist's  attention. 
Lumber  constitutes  the  basis  of  trade 
and  business  carried  on  at  the  dif- 
ferent towns  and  villages  on  these  wa- 
ters. The  trade  in  this  article  exceeds 
a  million  dollars  annually.  Every  tovfn 
has  its  saw-mill,  some  of  them  of  large 
size  and  capacity.  Fish  and  coal  are 
also  large  ly  obtained  and  exported.  The 
Indians  on  Whidby's  Island  and  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Seattle  will  attract  the 
traveller's  attention.  They  belong  to  the 
Skagit  tribe. 

270 


From  the  north  end  of  Puget  Sound 
the  traveller  can  cross  the  Straits  of  Fuca 
and  visit  the  British  possessions  upon 
Vancouver  Island. 

The  population  of  the  island  is  between 
7,000  and  8,000,  four-fifths  of  which  reside 
in  the  pleasant,  prosperous  little  city  of 
Victoria. 

The  climate  of  Vancouver  is  similar  to 
that  of  New  York,  though  it  is  much 
farther  north.  Delicious  fruits  and  flow- 
ers grow  in  abundance. 

Victoria,  the  capital  of  the  British 
Colony  of  Vancouver  Island  is  situated 
on  the  southeast  end  of  that  island.  It 
was  originally  the  depot  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company,  and  came  into  prominence 
and  population  during  the  Frazer  River 
excitement.  It  is  well  built,  of  brick 
and  stone,  and  wears  a  cheerful,  attractive 
appen ranee.  The  Government  House  and 
the  Govirnor'^s  Mansion  are  worth  visit- 
ing. Population  5,000.  Here  our  jour- 
ney northward  through  Oregon  and  Wash- 
ington teruiinates,  and  we  return  to  Olym- 
pia,  Portland,  or  San  Francisco,  as  our 
future  movements  eastward  may  best  de- 
termine. 


Akizona.J 


ARIZONA. 


[PXiESCOTT, 


A  K  I  Z  O  I^  A  . 


Arizona  was  organized  as  a  Territory 
February  24,  1863.  Its  area  is  estimated 
to  be  120,912  square  miles.  It  is  formed 
from  a  portion  of  the  old  Territory  of 
New  Mexico,  and  is  bounded  on  the  south 
by  Texas  and  .■^ouora;  on  the  west  by  the 
Colorado  River  and  California,  and  on  the 
north  by  Utah  and  Nevada.  It  is  about 
400  miles  long,  with  an  average  width  of 
400  miles.  The  Commissioner  of  the 
General  Land-Office,  in  his  report  to  Con- 
gress in  December,  1863,  says  of  this 
region,  that  it  "  is  believed  to  be  stocked 
with  mineral  wealth  beyond  that  of  any 
other  Territory  of  equal  extent  in  the 
great  plateau  between  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains and  the  Sierra  Nevada."  The  coun- 
try east  of  the  Rio  Grande  is  a  great  plain 
broken  only  by  the  Sacramento  and  Gua- 
dalupe Mountains.  The  population  is 
mainly  confined  to  the  towns  along  the 
rivers.  The  climate,  except  on  the  lower 
Gila  and  the  Colorado,  is  deliciou.s.  Snow 
seldom  falls,  and  never  lies  long.  The 
rainy  season  extends  from  June  to  Sep- 
tember, inclusive.  The  mineral  resources 
of  the  Teri'itory  are  considerable,  and 
mining  districts  and  towns  are  to  be 
found  through  the  interior  of  the  region. 
The  principal  route  to  the  Territory  is 
that  by  the  overland  stage  from  Wilming- 
ton and  Los  Angeles,  via  San  Bernardino, 
to  La  Paz,  264  miles,  and  Prescott,  445 
miles,  (See  Routes.)  Freight  can  be 
shipped  by  sailing  vessels  from  San  Fran- 
cisco to  Point  Isabel,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Colorado,  and  thence  by  steamer.  The 
Colorado  is  the  only  navigable  stream  in 
Arizona.  The  Territory  is  divided  into 
four  counties,  Pima,  Yuma,  Mojave,  and 
Yavapai. 

l*rcscott,  the  capital  of  the  Terri- 


tory, and  the.  seat  of  justice  for  Yavapai 
County,  is  pleasantly  situated  among  the 
Pine  Mountains,  150  miles  east  of  the 
Colorado,  and  460  miles  south  of  Salt 
Lake  City.  It  is  the  centre  of  an  exten- 
sive gold  and  silver  mining  district.  The 
first  house  was  built,  June,  1864.  Popu- 
lation estimated  at  500. 

Other  tov/ns,  with  a  mixed  population  of 
Spaniards,  Mexicans,  and  Americans,  are 
scattered  through  the  interior  of  the  Ter- 
ritory. The  principal  are  Tucson  and 
Tubac  in  Pima;  La  Paz,  Castle  Dome, 
]\Iineral  City,  and  Olive  City,  in  Yuma  ; 
Mojave  City,  Hardyville,  in  Mojave  Coun- 
ty; and  Prescott,  Weaver,  and  Wicken- 
berg,  in  Yavapai  County. 

Among  the  leading  objects  of  interest 
to  be  found  in  the  Territory  are  extensive 
ruins  of  cities,  aqueducts,  etc.,  the  re- 
mains of  early  Spanish  settlements  in 
Yavapai  County,  near  the  Rio  Verde  and 
Rio  Salinas. 

Routes.— The  following  are  the  princi- 
pal routes  to,  from,  and  through  Arizona, 
viz. : 

From  Wilmington,  Cal.,  via  San  Ber- 
nardino, to  La  Paz,  264  miles ;  to  Pres- 
cott, 445  miles. 

From  Fort  Whipple  (Prescott),  to 
Santa  Fe,  523  miles. 

From  La  Paz  to  Bill  WilUams's  Fork, 
65  miles. 

From  La  Paz  to  Castle  Dome,  63  miles. 

From  La  Paz  to  Weaver,  128  miles. 

From  Wilmington  to  Hardyville,  310 
miles. 

From  Hardyville  to  Prescott,  161  miles. 

From  San  Diego,  Cal.,  to  Fort  Yuma, 
239  miles. 

From  Fort  Yuma  to  Wickenburg,  177 

271 


Routes.] 


ARIZONA. 


1  Routes. 


miles  ;  Weaver  and  Prescott,  246  miles, 
via  north  side  of  Gila  River. 

From  Fort  Goodwin  to  Las  Cruces,  N. 
M.,  263^  miles. 

From  Fort  Yuma,  via  Pinios  Tillages, 
421  miles ;  Tucson,  502  miles  ;  Fort  Bowie, 
183  miles ;  Fort  Cummings,  31G  miles  ;  to 
Santa  Fe,  918  miles. 

From  Tucson  to  Mesilla,  N.  M.,  2G3 
miles. 

From  Prescott  to  Fort  Goodwin,  236-J- 
miles. 

272 


From  Tucson  to  La  Libertad  (Gulf  of 
Cal.),  227  miles. 

From  Pimos  Villages  to  Prescott,  144 
miles. 

Travellers  through  Arizona,  desirous  to 
visit  New  Mexico,  will  find  the  stage  route 
from  Fort  Whipple  to  Santa  Fe,  or  the 
wagon  routes  from  Tucson  to  Mesilla,  and 
from  Fort  Goodwin  to  Las  Cruces,  the 
most  desirable.  The  distance  by  the 
former  is  523  miles,  by  the  two  latter, 
263  miles. 


New  Mexico.] 


NEW  MEXICO. 


[Santa  Fe. 


NEW    MEXICO. 


New  Mexico  is  a  portion  of  the  Ter- 
ritory ceded  to  the  United  States  by  the 
treaty  with  Mexico  of  1848  and  of  1854. 
It  was  organized  as  a  Territory,  September 
9,  1850.  Its  area  is  at  present  (as  re- 
duced by  the  subsequent  formation  of 
new  Territories),  121,201  square  miles. 
It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Utah  and 
Colorado,  on  the  east  by  Texas  and  the 
Indian  Territory,  south  by  Texas  and 
Chihuahua,  and  west  by  Arizona  and 
Lower  California,  Like  the  adjacent 
country,  it  is  a  region  of  high  table-lands, 
crossed  by  mountain  ranges,  and  barren 
to  the  last  degree.  In  the  eastern  part 
of  this  Territory  are  the  valleys  of  the 
Kio  Grande,  and  its  tributary  waters 
skirting  the  base  of  various  chains  of  the 
Rocliy  Mountains,  as  the  Sierra  Madre 
range,  the  Jumanes,  and  the  Del  Cabello. 
Mourd  Taylor^  among  the  Sierra  Madre, 
is  said  to  rise  10,000  feet  above  the  valley 
of  the  Rio  Grande,  which  is  itself  a  table- 
land of  many  thousand  feet  elevation. 
Valuable  mineral  deposits — gold,  silver, 
and  other  metals — exist  in  New  Mexico, 
though  the  resourees  of  the  mines  have 
not  yet  been  vei^y  much  developed.  New 
Mexico  is  full  of  wonderful  natural  curios- 
ities and  beauties,  though  but  a  few  of 
its  many  surprising  scenes  have  been  yet 
explored.  Immense  canons  exist  among 
the  mountains  of  the  Sierra  Nevada ;  deep 
ravines,  where  rivers  flow  in  darkness 
hundreds  of  feet  down  belov/  the  surface 
of  the  valleys.  Red  and  white  sandstone 
bluffs,  too,  abound  ;  grand  and  lofty  per- 
pendicular precipices  of  rocks,  wearing 
every  varying  semblance  of  cliff-lodged 
castle  and  fortress.  The  principal  rivers 
are  the  Rio  Grande,  Pecos,  Salinas,  and 
the  Fuerco.      Waterfalls  of    surpassing 


beauty  are  scattered  through  the  mountain 
fastnesses.  The  Cascade  Grotto  is  de- 
scribed as  a  series  of  falls,  which,  coming 
from  a  mineral  spring  in  the  hills,  leap 
from  cliff  to  cliff,  a  thousand  feet  down  to 
the  Gila  below.  A  wonderful  cavern,  in 
which  are  some  curious  petrifactions,  may 
be  entered  beneath  the  first  of  these  cas- 
cades. Two  marvellous  falls  have  been 
discovered  in  the  Rio  Virgen,  one  of 
which,  200  miles  from  its  mouth,  has  a 
perpendicular  descent  of  1,000  feet.  The 
present  inhabitants  of  New  Mexico  con- 
sist chiefly  of  domesticated  nomad  Indians, 
with  a  sprinkling  of  Mexicans  and  Amer- 
icans. Immigration  from  the  States  has 
not  yet  turned  much  in  this  direction. 
The  ruins  of  the  ancient  pueblos^  which 
are  scattered  throughout  the  Territory, 
are  well  worthy  inspection.  The  most 
noteworthy  are  the  Pueblos  Pintado,  We- 
gi-gi,  Una-Vida,  Hungo  Paire,  Penasca, 
Blanca,  and  Taos.  New  Mexico  is  divided 
into  ten  counties. 

Saiata  Fc. — Santa  Fe  is  the  capital 
of  the  Territory.  It  is  situated  on  the 
Rio  Chicito,  or  the  Santa  Fe  River,  20 
miles  from  its  entrance  into  the  Rio 
Grande.  It  is  the  great  depot  of  the 
overland  trade,  which  has  been  carried  on 
for  30  or  40  years  past  with  Missouri. 
The  town  is  built  on  a  plateau  elevated 
7,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and 
surrounded  by  snow-capped  mountains, 
5,000  feet  yet  higher.  The  people  are 
but  a  miserable  set,  and  their  home  rec- 
ommends itself  to  the  stranger  scarcely 
more  tlian  they  do  themselves.  The 
houses  here,  as  elsewhere  in  the  region, 
are  built  of  dark  adobes  or  sun-dried 
bricks.  Each  building  usually  forms  a 
square,  in  the  interior  of  which  is  a  court, 

2V3 


New  Mexico.] 


NEW  MEXICO. 


[New  Mexico. 


upon  which  all  the  apartments  open.  The 
only  entrance  is  made  of  sufficient  size  to 
admit  animals  with  their  burdens. 

The  other  principal  wsettlement-?  are  Albu- 
querque, Mesilla,  Valencia,  Las  Vegas,  and 
Tuckeiata. 

EOXTTE  FKOM  IXDEPEXDENCE  CITY,  ilO.,  TO   8AX- 
TA  FE. 

Miles.  Miles. 

From  Independence  City  to  the  Kansas 
boundary ■ 22 

To  Lone  Elm 7      29 

"  Kr>und  Grove 6      35 

"  The  Narrows 30      65 

"  Black  Jack 3      6S 

"  One-hundred  Creek 3'2  100 

"  Switzler's  Creek 9  109 

"  Dragoon  Creek 5  114 

Several  creeks  are  then  crossed,  after  which 

To  Bi-  John  Spring 34  1-lS 

•'  Council  G-rove 1  149 

"  Kaw  Village  and  Placeto,in  Council 

Grove 1  150 

"  Svl van  Camp,  in  Council  Grove....     2  152 

'*  Willow  Spriug 6  15S 

"  Diamond  Spring 13  171 

"  LostSprins: IG  1S7 

"  Cottonwood  Fork  of  Grand  Eiver..  12  199 

"  Turkey  Creek 29  228 

"  Mud  Creek 19  247 

"  Little  Ai-kansas 3  250 

"  Cow  Creek 20  270 

"  PlumButtes 14  2S4 

"  Great  Bend  of  the  Arkansas 2  2SG 

The  trail  then  ascends  the  northern  bank  of 
the  Arkansas  Eiver  for  130  miles. 

To  Walnut  Creek  7  293 

"  Pawnee  Eock 14  307 

"Ash  Creek  6  313 

*'  Pawnee  Fork  of  the  Arkansas 6  319 

"  Coon  Creek 33  352 

"  Caches 36  888 

"  Old  Fort  Mann 14  402 

•'  Fort  Sumner 4  406 

"  Ford  of  the  Arkansas 10  416 

"  Jornado  to  Sand  Creek 49  465 

"  Lower  Spring,  on  the  Cimarron 11  476 

"  Middle  Spring,  on  the  Cimarron 37  513 

"  Willow  Bar 30  543 

"  Upper  Sx)ring,  on  the  Cimarron 17  560 

274 


Miles.  Miles. 

To  Cold  Springs 6  566 

McNee's  Creek 26  592 

Eabbit-ear 19  611 

Bound  Mound 8  619 

Eock  Creek 13  632 

Point  of  Eocks 17  649 

"  Eio  Colorado 20  669 

Ocate 7  676 

"  Wagon  Mound 19  695 

"  Santa  Clara  Spring 2  697 

"  Fort  Barclay,  on  itio  Mora 22  719 

"  Las  A^egas,  on  Eio  Gallinas 19  733 

NaturatGate 6  7-14 

"  Ojo  de  Berual 11  755 

"  San  Miguel 8  76:J 

''  Pecos  Euins 24  787 

SantaFe  25  812 

Routes.  —  From  Santa  Fe,  via  Fort 
Lamed  (555  miles),  to  Kansas  City,  Mo., 
843  miles. 

From  Santa  Fe,  via  Fort  Craig  (179 
miles),  and  Las  Cruces  (278  miles),  to 
Denver,  Col,  431  miles.  To  Franklin, 
Texas,  the  distance  is  327  miles. 

From  Mesilla  to  Chihuahua,  Mexico, 
282  miles. 

From  Santa  Fe  to  Fort  Sumner,  181 
miles ;  via  Taos  (85  miles),  to  Fort  Gar- 
land, 190  miles. 

From  Fort  Bascom  to  Fort  Sumner, 
81  miles. 

From  Fort  Bascom  to  Fort  Union,  129 
miles. 

From  Fort  Union  to  Fort  Sumner,  149 
miles. 

From  Fort  Union  to  Fort  Stanton,  271 
miles. 

From  Albuquerque,  via  Perdinales  (73 
miles),  to  Bosque  Redonda,  168  miles. 

From  Fort  Sumner  to  Fort  Stanton, 
125  miles. 

From  Santa  Fe  to  Fort  Stanton,  191 
miles. 


Nevada.] 


NEVADA. 


[Nevada 


E^EYAD  A. 


Nevada  forms  the  western  side  of  the 
great  basin  enclosed  by  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains on  tlie  east  and  the  Sierra  Nevada 
ran2;e  on  the  west ;  the  average  elevation  of 
its  valleys  being  at  least  5,000  feet  above 
tidc-vvater,  while  very  little  of  it  is  as  low  as 
4,000  feet.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north 
by  Oregon  and  Idaho,  on  the  south  and 
west  by  Cahfornia,  and  on  the  east  by 
Utah,  and  embraces  an  area  of  upward  of 
fifty-three  millions  of  acres.  It  has  few 
inland  waters.  The  Humboldt,  Walker, 
and  Carson  Rivers  and  Lakes  are  the  most 
important.  Lakes  Tahoe  and  Donner, 
Crystal  and  Pyramid  Lakes,  near  its  west- 
ern boundary,  are  Avell  worth  visiting. 

The  history  of  Nevada  dates  from  a 
very  recent  period.  It  was  organized  into 
a  Territory,  March  2,  1861,  up  to  which 
time  it  formed  part  of  the  adjoining  Ter- 
ritory of  Utah.  It  was  admitted  into  the 
Union  in  October,  1864.  It  is  divided 
into  11  counties,  and  contains  a  popula- 
tion variously  estimated  at  from  40,000  to 
60,000.  It  is  divided  into  two  main  geo- 
graphical divisions  known  as  Western  and 
Eastern  Nevada.  Of  the  former,  popular- 
ly known  as  "  Washoe,"  Virginia  is  the 
principal  town;  of  the  latter,  Austin, 
Carson  City  is  the  capital.  Star  City, 
Humboldt,  Silver  City,  Unionville,  Dayton, 
Aurora,  and  i3elmont,  are  -  smaller  towns 
and  centres  of  mining  districts,  scattered 
through  the  State. 

The  State  of  Nevada  abounds  in  rich 
stores  of  mineral  wealth,  including  gold, 
silver,  quicksilver,  lead,  antimony,  and 
other  precious  metals.  The  finest  silver 
deposits  in  the  United  States  are  said  to  ex- 
ist in  Storey  County,  in  this  State ;  and  the 
silver  mines  of  Lander  County  are  reported 
to  have  increased  the  population  there  sev- 


eral thousands  during  the  lapse  of  a  single 
year.  The  mining  region  of  Nevada  is  de- 
scribed as  an  elevated  semi-desert  country ; 
its  surface  a  constant  succession  of  longi- 
tudinal mountain  ranges,  with  intervening 
valleys  and  plains,  most  of  which  are  in- 
dependent basins,  hemmed  in  by  moun- 
tains on  all  sides,  and  the  whole  system 
without  drainage  to  the  sea. 

Routes. — Virginia  City,  via  Silver  City 
(3|-  miles),  Empire  City  (13  miles),  to  Car- 
son (16  miles);  stage  twice  daily. 

Virginia  to  Dayton  (8  miles) ;  daily. 

Virginia,  via  Ophir  (11  miles),  to  Wa- 
shoe (14  miles);  daily. 

Virginia,  via  Buffalo  Springs  (132  mil.), 
to  Star  City  (161  miles);  tri-weekly. 

Star  City,  via  Owyhee  (159  miles).  Ruby 
City  (245  miles),  Boise  (306  miles),  to 
Idaho  City  (342  miles) ;  weekly. 

Dayton,  via  Empire  City  (11  miles),  to 
Carson  (14  miles) ;  daily. 

Washoe  City,  via  Ophir  (3  miles),  to 
Carson  (14  miles) ;  daily. 

Carson  to  Aurora  (107  miles) ;  tri- 
weekly. 

Aurora  to  Brodie  (10  miles) ;  daily. 

Vli'g'iiaisi. — Hotel,  the  Interna^ 
tional. — Virginia,  the  chief  city  of  the 
Territory,  and  the  most  important  town 
on  the  overland  line  between  Salt  Lake 
City  and  Sacramento,  is  situated  on  the 
eastern  slope  of  Mount  Davidson,  291 
miles  northeast  of  San  Francisco,  and 
5*72  miles  west  of  Salt  Lake  City.  It 
stands  at  an  elevation  of  6,200  feet  above 
the  sea  level,  and  owes  its  foundation  and 
much  of  its  growth  to  the  discovery  and 
working  of  the  fiimous  Comstock  silver 
lode,  which  underlies  a  great  portion  of 
the  city.     This  lode  has  already  yielded 

275 


Carson  City.] 


NEVADA. 


[Austin 


nearly  sixty  millions  of  dollars  since  its 
discovery  in  June,  1859.  The  mines 
constitute  the  great  "  sight  "  of  the  place. 
The  "Savage"  and  "Gould  &  Curry" 
mines  are  the  best  worth  visiting.  Appli- 
cation for  permission  should  be  made  to 
the  resident  superintendents  at  the  works. 
Among  the  public  buildings  and  objects 
of  interest  are  the  Court-Hoitse,  on  B 
Street,  the  Episcopal,  Catholic,  and  Pres- 
byterian churches,  the  Bank  of  Califor- 
nia^ and  the  express  and  banking  house 
of  Wells,  Fargo  &  Co.  Mount  Davidson^ 
],oOO  feet  high,  commands  fine  viev/s. 
Virginia  City,  with  Gold  Hill,  which  ad- 
joins it,  contains  a  population  of  about 
15,000.  The  streets  are  well  paved  and 
lighte:!  with  gas.  The  Terrilorial  Enter- 
prise  and  News  are  published  daily. 

The  stages  of  the  Overland  ilail  (Wells, 
Fargo  &  Go's.)  leave  Virginia  City  daily 
for  Austin,  Salt  Lake  City,  and  Sacra- 
mento, and  all  points  east  and  west. 

Hot  Springs  are  found  within  a  few 
miles  of  Virginia,  accessible  by  stage, 
and  delightful  for  bathing. 

Carson  Ciiy,  the  capital  of  the 
State,  is  situated  in  a  pleasant  valley  at 
the  foot  of  the  east  slope  of  the  Sieri'a 
Nevada  range,  4  miles  west  of  Carson 
River,  and  16  miles  southwest  of  Virginia. 
It  was  founded  in  1858.  The  views  of 
the  mountain  ranges  are  fine.  Popula- 
tion, 2,500.  The  Court-House,  State  Pris- 
on., and  United  Stales  3fin.t  are  among  the 
principal  buildings.  The  St.  Charles  is 
the  leading  hotel. 

The  other  principal  towns  and  settle- 
ments in  Nevada  are  Washoe  Cifi/,  Ophir, 
Silver  City,  Star  City,  Unionvillc,  Hum- 
boldf,  Dayton,  Genoa,  and  Aurora. 

fiSot  SpriiSLg-!^,  1  mile  from  Car- 
son, on  the  road  to  Virginia,  and  Wal- 
I'l/s  Warm  Springs,  2  miles  south  of 
Genoa,  should  be  visited.  The  Steamboat 
Springs,  3  miles  south  of  Washoe  City,  are 
276 


also  worth  seeing.  The  road  from  Carson 
westward  to  CaHfornia  commands  some 
magnificent  views.  From  the  foot  of  the 
Sierras  it  winds  among  deep  green  valleys 
and  huge  granite  hills  studded  with  giant 
pine-trees. 

l^alce  Talioe,  13  miles  from  Car- 
son, is  one  of  the  most  lovely  resorts  in 
the  United  States.  It  is  thus  described 
by  a  late  writer :  "  Among  the  clouds, 
one  mile  above  the  sea,  this  shining  mir- 
ror lies  for  20  miles,  fringed  with  sombre 
pines  and  walled  in  by  dark  mountains. 
Though  at  some  points  1,500  feet  deep, 
it  is  almost  as  transparent  as  the  air, 
distinctly  revealing  the  bottom  through 
100  feet  of  water.  In  summer  the  little 
steamer  Governor  Blaisdell  plies  upon  it 
for  the  pleasure-seekers  who  board  at  the 
Glen  Brook  House  and  the  Lake  House. 
It  is  the  highest  water  on  the  globe  navi- 
gated by  steamboat.  The  State  line  be- 
tween California  and  Nevada  crosses  the 
lake." 

Austin,  the  chief  city  of  Eastern 
Nevada,  and  the  centre  of  the  famous 
Reese  River  mining  district,  is  situated 
at  the  head  of  Pony  Canon,  185  miles 
east  of  Virginia  and  387  miles  west  of 
Salt  Lake  City.  The  young  city  stands 
at  an  elevation  of  6,000  feet  above  the 
sea  level,  and  commands  from  the  upper 
end  of  the  carion  fine  vicAvs  of  the  valleys 
to  the  west  and  east.  The  first  discovery 
of  silver  here  was  made  in  July,  1862. 
The  yield  since  has  been  very  consider- 
able, and  the  population  now  numbers 
4,000.  The  Manhattan  and  Empire  mines 
and  mills  are  well  worth  visiting,  as  are 
also  the  Belmont,  Pahranagat,  and  other 
mining  districts,  which  are  readily  reached 
by  stage.  Austin  has  one  or  two  good 
church  edifices  and  two  banks.  The 
Reveille,  published  daily,  contains  the 
latest  mining  news  from  the  Reese  River 
district.     Hotel,  Mollinclli. 


Utah.] 


UTAH. 


[Utah. 


UTAH. 


\ 


Utah    formerly   extended    some    YOO 
miles  from  east  to  west,  and  347  miles 
from  north  to  south  ;  but  this  vast  region 
lias  been  greatly  reduced  by  the  recent 
forraatiou  of  Nevada   and   the   adjacent 
Territories.     Its  present  area  is  109,600 
square    miles;      its     population    about 
140,000.     It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by 
Idaho,  east  by  Colorado,   south   by  Ari- 
zona, and  west  by  Nevada.     It  is  a  coun- 
try of  elevated,  sterile  table-lands,  divided 
in  unequal   parts    by  the    Sierra   Madre 
Mountains.      The   Great   Basin,    or  Fre- 
mont's Basin,  as  it  is  sometimes  called, 
extends  over  the  v/estern  part,  500  miles 
from  east  to  west,  and  350  from  north  to 
south.     This  vast  tract  lies  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  nearly  5,000  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.     Some  portion  of  it  is  covered 
by  a  yielding  mass,   composed  of  sand, 
salt,  and  clay,  and  others  with  a  crust  of 
alkaline   and    saline    substance.      Great 
hills   surrDund   it   on  all  sides,    and  de- 
tached groups  cross  its  whole  area.    Near 
the  centre  it  is  traversed   by  the  Hum- 
boldt River  Mountains,  which  rise  from 
6,000  to  '7,000  feet  above  the  adjacent 
country.      Tliere  are  other  great  valley 
stretches  in  Utah,  more  sterile  even  than 
the  Great  Basin,   as  that  lying  between 
the  Rocky  and  the  Wahsatch  Mountains. 
Only  a  small  portion  of  this  wide  region 
can  be  turned  to  account  for  agricultural 
purposes.     The  little  fertile  land  it  pos- 
sesses is  that  which   skirts  the  streams 
and   narrow   tracts   at  the   base   of  the 
mountain  ranges.     The  most  productive 
portion  probably  is  that  of  the  valleys 
extending   north    and    south,    west    of 
the  Wahsatch  Mountains,  and  v.diich  is 
occupied    by    the   Mormon   settlements. 
These  settlements  are  96  in  number.    Of 


the  entire  population  upward  of  10,000 
are  farmers  who  cultivate  140,000  acres 
of  land.  The  Territory  produces  about 
half  a  million  sacks  of  flour  annually. 

Utah  is  historically  knovvn  as  a  Mormon 
colony.  This  extraordinary  people  pitch- 
ed their  tents  here  in  184V,  after  they 
were  driven  out  of  Illinois  and  Missouri. 
They  are  the  sole  occupants  of  the  region, 
excepting  a  few  Gentiles  and  the  native 
Indian  tribes.  They  seem  to  be  a  pros- 
perous and  increasing  community ;  for 
an  enumeration  of  their  numbers,  made 
in  1863,  exhibited  a  population  of  over 
83,000,  exclusive  of  the  Indians.  The 
first  settlements  were  made  in  July,  184'?, 
and  it  was  organized  as  a  Territory,  Sep 
tember  9,  1850.  The  navigation  of  the 
Colorado  River  for  600  miles  from  its 
mouth  to  Callville,  Arizona,  has  opened 
a  new  era  for  Utah.  The  Pacific  and 
Colorado  Steam  Navigation  Company  has 
been  organized,  and  will  add  much  to  the 
growth  and  prosperity  of  the  Territority. 

The  climate  of  Utah  is  said  to  resemble 
that  of  the  great  Tartar  plains  of  Asia, 
the  days  in  summer-time  being. hot  and 
the  nights  cool.  The  winters  are  mild  in 
the  valleys,  and  except  in  the  mountain 
ranges,  but  httle  snow  falls.  There  snow 
falls  deep,  and  the  thermometer  ranges 
from  zero  to  30°  below  for  days  and  even 
weeks  together.  The  temperature  is 
hable  to  great  and  quick  transitions  from 
the  changing  currents  of  the  winds. 

'TIae  4»reat  Salt  I^alce  is  per- 
haps the  most  remarkable  of  all  the  many 
natural  wonders  of  the  Territory.  This 
singular  body  of  water  lies  northeast  of  the 
centre  of  the  Territory,  and  20  miles  west 
of  the  City  of  the  Saints.  It  is  over  100 
miles  long  and  35  wide.  It  is  so  highly  im- 

217 


Lakes,  etc.] 


UTAH. 


[Salt  Lake  City. 


pregnated  with  salt  that  no  life  is  found 
in  it,  and  a  thick  saline  incrustation  is 
deposited  upon  its  banks  by  evaporation 
in  hot  weather ;  and  yet  all  its  tributary 
■waters  are  fresh.  In  some  of  its  features, 
as  in  tlie  wild  and  weird  aspect  of  much 
of  the  surrounding  scenery,  it  has  been 
compared  to  the  Dead  Sea  of  Palestine. 
It  is  4,000  feet  above  the  sea  level,  and 
contains  seven  islands. 

Utala  Sjake  is  a  body  of  fresh 
water  35  miles  in  length.  It  lies  south 
of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  to  which  it  is 
tributary,  by  the  channel  of  the  connect- 
ing river,  called  the  Jordan.  Like  its 
saline  neighbor,  the  Utah  Lake  is  elevated 
4,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It 
is  abundantly  supplied  with  fine  trout 
and  other  fish. 

Pyraasaitl  IL^alce  lies  on  the  slope 
of  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains,  700  feet 
yet  above  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  It  is  en- 
closed everywhere  by  giant  rocky  preci- 
pices, which  lise  vertically  to  the  sublime 
height  of  3,000  feet.  From  the  bosom 
of  the  translucent  waters  of  this  wonder- 
ful lake  there  springs  a  strange  pyramidal 
rock  GOO  feet  in  air.  In  the  interior  of 
the  Territory  there  are  other  smaller 
ponds,  as  Nicollet  Lake  near  the  cen- 
tre, and  70  miles  yet  southward,  Lake 
Ashley.  Mud,  Pyramid,  Walker's,  and 
Carson's  Lakes  are  near  the  eastern  base 
of  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains  ;  Hum- 
boldt's Lake,  formed  by  the  waters  of 
Humboldt  River,  is  about  50  miles  east 
of  Pyramid  Lake.     (Sec  Nevada.) 

Cu,noift^. — Near  Brown's  llolc,  in 
the  vicinity  of  Green  River,  there  are  many 
of  those  singular  ravines  of  the  Great 
West,  known  as  caiions.  They  are  sudden 
depressions  in  the  surface  of  the  earth, 
sometimes  of  a  vertical  depth  of  1,500 
feet.  Nothing  can  be  more  surprising  and 
more  grand  than  the  pictures  presented 
in  these  strange  passages;  the  effect,  too, 
is  always  heightened  by  the  unexpected 
manner  in  which  the  traveller  comes 
iijion  them,  as  no  previous  intimation  is 
alforded,  by  the  topography  of  the  land, 
of  their  proximity. 

Routes. — Salt  Lake  Citv,  via  Eagan 
Canon  (2C9  miles),  to  Ruby'  Valley  (311 
miles) ;  daily. 

Salt   Lake    City,  via   Fort  Bridger    to 
North  Platte  Station  (596  miles). 
278 


Salt  Lake  City,  via  Pleasant  Grove  (36 
miles),  Provo  (43  miles),  to  Payson  (62 
miles) ;  semi-weekly. 

Payson,  via  Nephi  (26  miles),  to  Fill- 
more (77  miles) ;  semi-weekly. 

Fillmore,  via  Parowan  (95  miles),  to 
Cedar  City  (113  miles);  weekly. 

Cedar  City,  via  Santa  Clara  (64  miles), 
to  Callville,  Arizona,  head  of  navigation 
on  Colorado  River  (100  miles);  weekly. 
Callville  is  410  miles  from  Salt  Lake  City 
and  600  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

Springville,  via  Mount  Pleasant  (48 
miles),  to  Gunnison  (88  miles) ;  semi- 
weekly. 

Salt  Creek,  via  Moroni  (20  miles),  to 
Manti  (40  miles) ;  daily. 

€Ji'eat  Salt  E^alcc  City,  the 
capital  of  Utah,  and  the  largest  city 
on  the  overland  line  between  Chicago  and 
Sacramento,  is  delightfullv  situated  in 
the  Centre  of  the  valley  of  Great  Salt 
Lake,  1,166  miles  west  from  Omaha,  and 
854  miles  east  of  San  Francisco.  It  has 
a  fine  agricultural  and  mining  region  con- 
tiguous to  it,  and  is  the  centre  of  a  large 
and  growing  trade.  The  traveller  should 
be  prepared  to  spend  at  least  one  week  in 
the  city  and  neighborhood  ;  longer  if  pos- 
sible. The  town  covers  an  area  of  about 
9  miles — that  is,  3  miles  each  way.  It  is 
one  of  the  most  beautifully  laid -out  cities 
in  the  world.  The  streets  are  very  wide, 
with  water  running  through  nearly  every 
one  of  them.  Every  block  is  surrounded 
with  beautiful  shade-trees,  and  almost 
every  house  has  its  neat  little  orchard  of 
apple,  peach,  apricot,  and  cherry  trees. 
In  fact,  the  whole  9  square  miles  is  almost 
one  continuous  orchard.  From  Ensign, 
Fcak^  one  of  the  finest  views  on  the 
whole  overland  line  is  obtained.  The 
most  noteworthy  objects  in  the  city  are 
the  Tabernacle^  now  nearly  completed 
and  capable  of  holding  15,000  people; 
the  Temple  ;  Presidential  Ma^ision,  con- 
sisting of  the  "Bee-IIive"  House  and 
"  Lion  House,"  and  enclosed  within  a 
high  and  substantial  stone  wall ;  the 
llieatre^  City  Ilall^  and  the  residences  of 
some  of  the  Mormon  bishops  and  elders. 
The  Theatre  is  an  imposing  edifice  erected 
at  a  cost  of  $250,000,  and  capable  of 
seating  1,800  people.  Excellent  accom- 
modation can  be  had  at  Town&end^s  Hotel 
or  the  Revere. 


I 


ALT  Lake  City.] 


UTAH. 


[Fillmore  City. 


Salt  Lake  City  has  three  newspapers, 
le  Telec/raph,  Vidclfe,  and  Deserd  JVews, 
16  last-named  being  the  organ  of  the 
[ormon  Church. 

Most  charming  walks  and  rides  may  be 
lade  to  the  Hot  and  Tepid  Sulphm-  Springs 
)aths  at  the  latter),  to   Camp   Doitff/af^, 

miles  distant,  and  to  Great  Salt  and 
^tah  Lakes.  Outside  of  the  City  of  Salt 
ake,  Mormon  settlements  extend  hun- 
■eds   of  miles  in   all  directions.     The 


principal  towns  and  villages  are  Provo, 
Ogden,  Brownsville,  Franklin,  Springville, 
Nephi,  Stockton,  Payson,  etc. 

i'^illmore  City,  once  the  capital 
of  the  Territory,  is  situated  on  theNuquin, 
a  branch  of  the  Nicollet  Ptiver.  Stages 
to  Payson  and  Cedar  City  on  the  Provo 
or  Timpanogos  River.  Seven  miles 
above  Provo  City  are  some  remarkable 
cataracts,  well  worthy  a  visit  from  travel- 
lers in  that  region. 

279 


IlAKC] 


IDAHO. 


[BOISEE. 


IDAHO. 


iDAno  was  organized  as  a  Territory, 
March  3,  1863.  Its  area  was  originally 
333,200  square  miles,  but  of  this  immense 
area  Montana  has  now  nearly  two-thirds. 
It  is  formed  from  the  eastern  halves  of 
the  old  Washington  and  Oregon  Terri- 
tories, the  western  half  of  Nebraska, 
and  a  small  part  of  Northern  Utah.  It 
extends  from  Utah  and  Colorado  on 
the  south  to  the  British  possessions  on 
the  north.  It  is  said  that  the  Indian 
word  Idaho  is,  in  English,  "  a  star ; " 
and  again,  that  it  stands  for  "  the  gem 
of  the  mountains."  The  Idaho  region 
includes  the  rich  gold-fields  of  Salmon 
River,  a  stream  of  remai'kably  picturesque 
beauty,  flowing,  here  and  there,  between 
grand  perpendicular  walls  varying  in 
height  from  500  to  2,000  feet.  The  very 
recent  and  rapid  settlement  of  Idaho, 
commenced  witliin  two  or  three  years 
past,  has  grown  out  of  the  gold  discov- 
eries. These  discoveries  attracted  thou- 
sands of  adventurers  from  California, 
who  soon  afterward  pushed  their  explo- 
rations toward  Eastern  Oregon  and  West- 
ern Idaho.  From  that  period  to  the 
present  a  steady  and  increasing  tide  of 
immigration  has  set  thitherward,  and  the 
resources  of  the  land  are  being  daily  re- 
vealed and  utilized,  both  in  its  mineral 
stores  and  its  capacities  in  soil,  climate, 
etc.  Settlements  are  rapidly  growing  up, 
roads  arc  being  constructed,  the  waters 
are  navigated,  schools  and  churches  are 
appearing,  with  all  other  adjuncts  of  per- 
manent ami  progressive  civilization.  The 
mineral  resources  of  Idaho,  even  as  at 
present  known,  compare  well  with  the 
other  great  mining  portions  of  the  great 
Rocky  Mountain  region.  Gold  is  found 
in  most  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Missouri 
280 


and  the  Yellowstone.  Platina,  too,  has 
been  obtained  in  small  quantities,  while 
extensive  deposits  of  this  valuable  metal 
are  supposed  to  exist.  Copper,  iron, 
and  salt  ure  abundant ;  and  coal  is  found 
upon  the  Pacific  slope  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, and  on  the  upper  Missouri  and 
Yellowstone  Rivers.  The  climate  of  the 
Idaho  region  is  bleak  in  the  mountain 
ranges,  but  mild  and  agreeable  in  the 
valley  districts.  Boise  is  the  capital,  and 
Idaho  City,  Lewiston,  Ruby  City,  and 
Star  City,  the  principal  towns. 

The  leading  approaches  to  the  Territory 
are  from  the  Pacific  by  the  Humboldt 
route  from  Hunter's  Station,  on  the  over- 
land (Wells,  Fargo  &  Go's.)  mail  line  to 
Boise,  the  capital,  or  from  Portland, 
Oregon,  by  way  of  the  Columbia  and 
Snake  Rivers  to  Lewiston,  and  trom  Uma- 
tilla and  Wallula  to  Boise  and  Idaho 
Cities.  From  Salt  Lake  City,  via  Bear 
River  (84  miles),  to  Boise  (393  miles.) 

ISoif^ee  or  Boise  Citv,  the  capital  and 
chief  commercial  town  of  Idaho,  is  situated 
on  a  level  plain  on  the  north  bank  of  tlie 
Boise  River,  about  30  miles  southwest  of 
Idaho  City,  and  393  miles  from  Great 
Salt  Lake  City.  It  became  the  capital  in 
1864.  Its  broad,  level,  treeless  avenues, 
with  their  low,  white-verandahed  ware- 
houses, log  cabins,  new,  neat  cottages, 
and  ever-shifting  panorama  of  v.agons 
and  coaches,  Indians,  miners,  farmers, 
and  speculators,  remind  one  of  a  prairie- 
town  in  Kansas  or  Iowa.  It  is  over- 
looked by  J^ort  Boise^  which  has  a  noble 
parade-groimd,  surrounded  by  tasteful 
buildings  of  sandstone,  and  is  the  most 
beautiful  of  all  our  frontier  posts,  except 
Fort  Pavis,  in  Texas.  Eiih^.i  CUi/,  Silver 
Citij^  and  BoonviUe,  are  trading  towns  in 


BOISEE.] 


IDAHO. 


[Lewiston. 


the  mountain  mining  district  of  Owyhee. 
They  are  readied  over  a   I'oiigh   dreary 
road  from  Boise  in  one  day.     lliiby  City 
is  in  the  heart  of  the  Owyhee  district,  and 
G  miles  from  the  Oregon  line.     It  stands 
at  the  bottom  of  a  deep  caiion  overlooked 
l)y  mountain  summits  which  tower  from 
800  to  1,500  feet  above  it.      War  JEagle, 
the  highest,  is  2,000  feet  above  the  town 
and    5,000   feet   above   the    sea.      This 
mountain  is  rich  in  mineral.     The  Morn- 
ing Star  and   Oro  Fino  Mills  should  be 
visited.     The   Great  Falls  of  the  Snake, 
185  miles  from  Boise  City,  and   6  miles 
from  the  stage  road,  should   be   visited. 
They  are  thus  described  by  a  recent  trav- 
eller in  Idaho  :  "  The  roar  grew  loud  as 
we  approached ;  yet   we   could   not   see 
the  river,  for  it  runs  through  a  winding 
chasm,  hundreds  of  feet  below  the  sur- 
face of  the  plain.     But  we  could  detect 
its  mist,  Avith  violet  tinge  of  rainbow,  and 
hear  its  thundering  voice.     At   last  we 
alighted  on  a  broken  floor  of  brown  lava, 
descended   the  precipice   for  three   hun- 
dred  feet,  by  a   natural   rock  stairway, 
walked   a  few  hundred   yards   across   a 
terrace  of  grass,  lava,  and  cedars,  and 
stood  upon  a  second  precipice.      Peer- 
ing over  the  edge,  five  hundred  feet  be- 
neath us  we  saw  the  river,  after  its  terrific 
leap,  peaceful    and  placid   as   a   mirror. 
Half  a  mile  above,  in  full  view,  was  the 
cataract.     It  is  unequalled  in  the  world, 
save  by  Niagara,  of  which  it  vividly  re- 
minded us.     It  is  not  all  height,  like  Yo- 
Semite,  nor  all  breadth  and  power,  like 
the  Great  Falls  of  the  Missouri,  nor  all 
strength  and  volume,  like  Niagara,  but 
combines  the  three  elements.     Like  most 


cataracts,  it  has  the  horse-shoe  form  and 
the  undying  rainbow.  The  volume  of 
water  is  less  than  at  Niagara,  for  its  cres- 
cent summit  is  only  eight  hundred  feet 
wide.  But  the  descent — two  hundred 
feet — is  one-third  greater,  while  above  the 
brink,  solemn  portals  of  lava,  rising  for 
hundreds  of  feet  on  each  bank,  supply  an 
element  of  grandeur  which  the  monarch 
of  cataracts  altogether  lacks.  One  of 
these  lava  columns  is  crowned  with  an 
eagle's  nest.  Below  the  fall,  over  the 
canon  side,  shrivelled  cedars  cling  to  the 
rock,  Avith  roots  like  claws.  Upon  the 
withered  branch  of  one  perched  a  white- 
tailed  magpie,  Avhile  upon  another,  statu- 
esque and  motionless,  was  an  enormous 
raven,  black  as  jet."  * 

I^eTi^istOBa,  the  county  seat  of  Nez 
Perce  County  and  once  the  capital  of  the 
Territory,  is  on  the  Lewis  Fork  of  the 
Columbia  River,  353  miles  east  of  Port- 
land, Oregon,  with  which  it  has  daily 
communication.  It  contains  sevei^al  sub- 
stantial buildings  and  a  population  of 
2,000. 

Sidsilso  City  (  formerly  Bannack  ) 
is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  Elk  and 
Moore's  Creeks,  in  the  midst  of  the 
placer  gold  mines  of  the  Boise  Basin. 
Boise  City  is  30  miles  distant.  A  fire 
destroyed  a  great  part  of  the  town  in  May, 
1865,  but  it  has  been  wholly  rebuilt.  Pop- 
ulation, about  4,000. 

The  mining  town  of  Buena  Vista  £ar, 
opposite  Idaho  City,  has  a  population  of 
1,600. 


*  From  "  West  of  the  Mississippi,"  by  Albert 
D.  Eicbardson. 

281 


Montana.] 


MOXTAXA. 


[Routes,  etc. 


M  O  X  T  A  IN"  A . 


Montana  formed  a  part  of  Idalio  until 
May,  1864,  at  which  time  it  was  organ- 
ized into  a  distinct  Territory.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  British 
possessions,  on  tlie  east  by  Dacotah,  and 
on  the  south  by  Dacotali  and  Idaho,  and 
on  the  west  by  Idaho,  Its  length  is  about 
560  miles,  and  its  breadth  about  250 
miles. 

The  surface  of  the  country  is  generally 
mountainous.  The  great  Rocky  Moun- 
tain I'ange  crosses  the  Territory.  Com- 
mencing at  the  northern  boundary,  this 
range  extends  for  a  distance  of  about  200 
miles  in  a  S.  S.  E.  dii-ection,  after  whicli  it 
describes  a  great  curve  westward  until  it 
touches  the  border  of  Idaho.  From  this 
point  the  range  winds  along  the  south- 
v/e.^t  boundary  of  Montana  for  nearly  200 
miles.  The  Bitter-Root  Mountains  also 
form  a  part  of  the  western  boundary. 
The  country  ))ordei-ing  on  the  Jefferson, 
Gallatin,  and  Madison  Forks  of  the  Mis- 
souri is  among  the  most  fertile  and  beau- 
tiful to  be  found  west  of  the  Mississippi. 
The  country  is  a  gently  undulating  prairie, 
dotted  here  and  there  with  clumps  of 
timber.  The  streams  are  beautifully 
fringed  with  forest  growth ;  the  soil  is 
rich,  and  the  climate  generally  mild  and 


mviijorating. 


The  principal  rivers  are  the  Missouri, 
the  Yellowstone,  and  their  tributaries  ; 
the  Big  Horn,  Powder,  Milk,  and  Manas 
Rivers. 

Gold  and  silver  have  been  found  in 
great  abumlance,  and  mining  is  now  tlie 
most  important  industry  of  the  Territory. 
Indeed,  Montana  is  believed  by  many  who 
have  visited  and  examined  it  to  be  the 
richest  placer-mining  region  in  the  United 
States. 

282 


The  Great  Falls  of  the  Missouri  are  re- 
garded as  the  leading  object  of  interest  to 
travellers. 

Routes. — The  principal  routes  to  the 
Territory  are  the  overland  route  from  Salt 
Lake  City,  via  Bear  River,  and  Bannack 
to  Virginia  City  and  Helena ;  and  the  Mis- 
souri River  route  to  Fort  Benton.  The 
latter  cannot  be  travelled  except  during 
the  rise  in  the  river,  which  usually  takes 
place  in  June,  and  ordinarily  affords  navi- 
gation for  about  six  weeks.  Fort  Union, 
400  miles  below  Fort  Benton,  is  the  head 
of  summer  navigation.  For  all  practical 
purposes  of  travel  the  overland  route  by 
Salt  Lake  City  is  the  only  route. 

From  Fort  Benton,  via  MuUan's  Pass 
and  Stevens's  Pass,  to  Walla-Walla,  Ore- 
gon, a  distance  of  618  miles,  the  road 
crosses  the  northern  part  of  the  Territory. 

From  Great  Salt  Lake  City  to  Virginia 
City  and  Helena,  the  stations  and  dis- 
tances are  as  follow,  viz. : 

Miles.  MiK'9, 

To  Centreville 12  12 

"  Kavs  Ward 12  2 1 

"  Oi,'rion  City 15  39 

"  Bi-;  Dam 11  50 

"  Briirham  City 11  61 

"  Mormon  City 10  71 

"  Bear   Kiver 13  8-t 

'•  Mound  Sprinss 12  96 

"  Ilonderson  Crock 11  107 

"  ISIallade  Citv 9  116 

"  DeviPsCrock 10  I'.'G 

"  Marsh  Valley 9  135 

"  Carpenter's 14  WJ 

"■  Robbers'  J Jotreat 12  1  «1 

"  Black  Kock 13  174 

"  Pocatello 10  1S4 

"  Ross'  Fork 12  196 

"  Blackfoot  Kiver 10  206 

"  Yampaich 15  221 

"  Cedar  Point 11  202 

"  Big  Bend 12  244 

"  Eagle  Bock 10  254 

"  Market  Lake 10  204 


Bannack.] 


MONTANA. 


[Helena. 


Miles.  Miles. 

To  Desert  Wells IS  '282 

'■  Kamas  Creek 12  29-1 

"  Dry  Creek 22  316 

"  Pleasant  Yalley 12  328 

"  Summit 9  837 

''  Junction  Rauclie 10  847 

"  Missouri  Si)ring 9  35(5 

"  Ked  Rock 13  3G9 

"  Table  Eock 10  379 

"   Horse  Trairie 15  894 

"  Bannack  City 10  404 

"   Rattlesnake 15  419 

"   Stone  Kanche 15  434 

"   Beaver  Head 10  444 

"  Stinking- Water  Branch 12  456 

"  Lorrain's 11  467 

"  Yirginia  City 10  477 

"  Helena 120  597 


Leaving  the  City  of  the  Saints  the  road 
lies  alorsg  the  northeast  bank  of  the 
Great  Salt  Lake,  past  thritty  Mormon 
villages  of  dnll-brown  adobe  houses,  with 
Btniling  orchards  overspreading  cotton- 
wood-trees  and  streets  watered  by  small 
artificial  str^^ams. 

After  crossing  the  Idaho  line  a  little 
north  of  Bear  River,  the  road  passes 
through  Port  Neuf  Canon,  thirty  miles 
long,  and  soon  after  the  traveller  reaches 
the  Snake  or  Shoshonee  (Winding)  River, 
the  old  Lewis  Fork  of  the  Columbia. 

This  dim,  crooked  art§ry  of  the  great 
desert's  heax't,  fifteen  hundred  miles  in 
length,  rises  from  springs  within  half  a 
mile  of  those  forming  the  head-waters  of 
the  Missouri.     It  is  the  river  of  desola- 


tion. Unrelieved  by  forests  or  green 
banks  for  nearly  the  entire  length,  it  is  a 
natural  ditch  sunk  in  the  sand  —  filled 
with  clear  water,  and  faintly  fringed  with 
scattering  willows  and  cottonwoods. 

Beyond  Snake  River  the  road  crosses 
miles  of  sand.  To  the  east  rise  the 
2hree  Teions^  a  unique  spur  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  called  by  the  Indians  the 
"  Three  Pinnacles."  Climbing  over  the 
"divide"  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  just 
beyond  Pleasant  Valley  Station^  we  leave 
the  Pacific  slope  behind,  entering  Mon- 
tana among  the  tributaries  of  the  Mis- 
souri. 

ISaMuaiclj:,   the  pioneer  town   of 


Montana,  is  first  reached.  It  lies  in  the 
gulch  of  Grasshopper  Creek,  enclosed  by 
lofty  mountains,  70  miles  i'rom  Virginia 
City  and  400  from  Salt  Lake  City. 

"f'ii'g'isaia  City, — Hotel,  Plant- 
ers'. Virginia,  the  capital  and  chief  city 
of  Montana,  is  situated  on  Alder  Creek,  a 
tributary  of  Jefterson's  Fork  of  the  Mis- 
souri. It  was  settled  in  July,  1862,  and 
with  its  suburbs  Nevada  City  and  Junc- 
tion^ contains  a  population  of  between 
4,000  and  5,000.  Alder  Gulch  is  about 
13  miles  in  length,  and  presents  to  the 
eye  of  one  unacquainted  with  mining 
operations,  a  curious  spectacle.  Millions 
of  dollars  of  gold  have  been  taken  out 
of  it.  The  Post^  one  of  the  best  news- 
papers in  the  Territory,  is  published  here. 
Stages  and  stage  expresses  leave  daily 
and  tri-weekly  for  Helena,  Bannack,  and 
Salmon  River,  Silver  Bow,  Red  Mountain 
City,  Deer  Lodge,  Blackfoot,  Reynolds 
City,  Beartown,  and  Hellgate. 

Between  Virginia  City  and  Helena  the 
distance,  120  miles,  is  usually  travelled  by. 
stage  in  14  to  IG  hours.  Views  of  the 
junction  of  the  Jefferson,  Gallatin,  and 
Madison  Forks,  which  form  the  Missouri, 
and  of  the  Hot  Springs,  four  miles  from 
Helena,  and  White-tailed  Deer  Caiion  are 
obtained  en  route.  These  springs  have 
fine  medicinal  properties,  and  are  largely 
patronized  by  visitors  from  Helena. 

ISelesia, — Hotel,  Broadimy  House. 
Helena  is  a  thriving  three-year-old  city, 
with  a  population  of  nearly  6,000.  It  is 
the  supply-point  of  the  rich  placer  mines 
of  the  Blackfoot  country  and  other  sec- 
tions of  Northern  Montana,  embracing 
some  of  the  most  valuable  diggings  on 
the  continent.  It  is  18  miles  west  of  the 
Missouri  River,  and  120  miles  north  of 
Virginia  City.  The  first  settlement  was 
made  here  in  Last  Chance  Gulch^  in  the 
fall  of  1864.  In  the  vicinity  are  exten- 
sive quarries  of  granite  and  blue  lime- 
stone. The  city  contains  several  banks 
and  wholesale  stores.  The  Herald  is 
published  daily,  with  all  the  mining  and 
Territorial  news. 

283 


Denver.] 


COLOFtADO. 


[Pike's  Peak. 


COLO  E  ADO. 


Colorado  was  organized  as  a  Territory 
March  2,  1861.  Its  area  is  106,4*75  square 
miles.  It  lie^  directly  west  of  Kansas,  and 
comprises  the  western  part  of  the  old  Ter- 
ritory of  Kansas,  and  portions  of  the  for- 
mer Territories  of  Nebraska,  New  Mexico, 
and  Utah.  Knowledge  of  this  region  con- 
tinued very  meagre  till  1858,  at  which 
time  mining  operations  were  first  com- 
menced. In  May,  1859,  the  famous  Greg- 
ory mines  were  discovered,  and  immigra- 
tion set  in  rapidly.  The  estimated  popu- 
lation of  Colorado,  in  1863,  was  45,000, 
exclusive  of  15,000  tribal  Indians.  The 
principal  pursuits  of  the  people  are  mining 
and  agriculture. 

^oldeii  City,  the  capital  of  Colo- 
rado, has  a  population  of  about  1,000. 
It  is  situated  at  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tains, 15  miles  from  Denver, 

l>eiivcB*. — Hotels,  the  Pacific,  corner 
of  Larimer  and  G  Streets,  is  a  well-kept 
house  ;  the  Trcmont  and  the  Planters'. — 
Denver,  the  principal  city  of  Colorado,  is 
at  the  confluence  of  Cherry  Creek  with  the 
South  Fork  of  the  Platte  River,  13  miles 
from  the  base  of  the  Kocky  Mountains. 
It  is  one  of  the  main  points  on  the  great 
overland  line  between  Omaha  and  Great 
Salt  Lake,  and  commands  considerable 
trade  and  travel.  It  is  distant  580  miles 
west  of  Omaha,  and  586  miles  east  of  Salt 
Lake  City.  The  first  house  in  this  vicin- 
ity was  built  in  the  fall  of  1857,  at  a  place 
then  called  Montana,  which  was  deserted 
in  1859.  Denver,  formerly  St.  Charles, 
and  named  after  Governor  Denver,  was 
commenced  October,  1858.  The  first 
coach  of  the  Leavenworth  and  Pike's 
Peak  Express  Company  arrived  ]\Iay  7, 

1859.     Tlie  city  was  incorporated  Novem- 
ber 7, 1860.     it  now  contains  about  6,000 
284 


inhal:)itants  and  several  fine  buildings, 
among  which  are  3  hotels,  2  theatres,  and 
2  printing-offices  and  newspapers  —  the 
Pochj  Mountain  News  and  Denver  Daily. 
The  Mint'is,  worth  visiting.  But  the  main 
attractions  of  Denver  and  its  locality  are 
the  views  of  the  mountains  which  raise 
their  lofty  summits  to  the  west,  north,  and 
south.  Seventy  miles  to  the  south  Pike''s 
Peal\  like  some  old  castle,  *'  majestic 
though  in  ruin,"  lies  dim  and  soft  against 
the  sky.  The  mountain  is  well  worthy  to 
name  a  noble  State.  Though  not  the 
highest,  it  is  probably  tlie  grandest  of  the 
whole  Rocky  Mountain  range.  The  view 
from  the  summit  is  thus  described  by  a 
recent  traveller:  "Eastward,  for  a  hun- 
dred miles,  our  eyes  wandered  over  the 
dim,  dreamy  prairies,  spotted  by  the  dark 
shadows  of  tlie  clouds,  and  the  deeper 
green  of  the  pineries,  intersected  by  the 
faint,  gray  lines  of  the  roads,  and  emeraM 
threads  of  timber  along  the  streams,  and 
banded,  on  the  far  horizon,  with  a  girdle 
of  gold.  To  the  north  we  could  trace  the 
Platte  for  seventy  miles,  while  far  to  tht 
south  swept  the 
Arkansas,  and  then 
Peaks  of  New  Mexico,  a  hundred  miles 
away.  Eight  or  ten  miles  distant,  two 
little  gem-like  lakes  nestled  among  the 
rugged  mountains,  revealing  even  the 
shadoics  of  the  rocks  and  pines  in  their 
tnmspai'cnt  waters.  Far  beyond,  a  group 
of  tiny  lakelets  glittered  and  sparkled 
like  a  clusters  of  stars." 

Forty  miles  to  the  north  of  the  town 
stands  Long's  Peak,  distinct,  rugged,  and 
corrugated — its  feet  wreathed  in  pine,  and 
its  head  crested  with  snow.  A  dark,  ir- 
regular, variegated  wall  sweeps  grandly 
between  them,  at  the  verge  of  the  sensible 


green 


timbers  of   tin.^ 
rose    the    Spanish 


Routes.] 


COLORADO. 


[Central  City. 


i  t'.ie 


t:ie 


horizon,  and  beyond,  on  either  side, 
merges  into  the  dreamy,  debatable  ground 
between  earth  and  lieaven.  The  moun- 
tains, at  the  nearest  point,  ten  miles  from 
Denver,  afford  a  view  unexcelled  upon 
our  eontiuent.  Some  sixty  miles  south 
of  Denver,  on  the  road  to  Pike's  Peak, 
is  a  remarkable  region  of  natural  mon- 
uments of  stone,  which  assume  various 
fantastic  forms.  Upright  shafts  of  rock 
are  standing,  over  a  track  twenty  miles 
in  length.  Some  crowning  summits  of 
hills  look  like  immense  castles  built  with 
perfect  symmetry  by  human  hands.  But 
most  have  the  size  and  shape  of  grave- 
stones and  monuments,  and  thickly 
stud  the  ground  for  hundreds  of  acres. 
Standing  in  the  midst  of  pine-groves, 
tliey  give  the  precise  effect  of  a  well- 
shaded  cemetery  filled  with  memorials 
of  the  dead.  Near  Colorado  City  they 
culminate  in  an  immense  gateway  of  solid 
rock,  known  as  the  entrance  to  the  Gai"- 
den  of  the  Gods. 

Stages  from  Denver. — Wells,  Fargo, 
and  Co.'s  stages,  carr3'ing  the  mails,  leave 
Denver,  for  the  mountain  cities,  every 
morning  at  seven.     Fare,  up,  |;8.00. 

The  same  stage  line  starts  a  coach  from 
Denver  to  Omaha,  via  the  Platte  and  U.  P. 
R.  R.  route,  every  morning  at  six  o'clock. 
Also,  via  Smoky  Hill  route  to  Leaven- 
worth, every  afternoon  at  four  o'clock. 
Fare  through  by  cither  route  |^100.  Their 
coaches  start  also  daily  for  Salt  Lake, 
Montana,  and  California,  at  seven  o'clock 
?ach  morning.  Fare  to  Salt  Lake  City, 
P25. 

The  Southern  Colorado  and  New  Mex- 
eo  Stage  Line  leaves  Denver  every  Mon- 
iay,  Wednesday,  and  Friday  mornings. 
Fare  to  Santa  F(§,  $105. 

A  mail  hack  leaves  for  the  South  Park, 
31ue  River,  and  Upper  Arkansas  Mines, 
ivery  Thursday  morning.  Fare  $12  to 
Buckskin  Joe. 


A  mail  hack  leaves  for  Boulder  County 
every  Wednesday  and  Saturday  morning. 
Fare  to  Boulder  City,  $2.50. 

lllsieic  ISa^vk  is  an  important 
mining  town  in  Gilpin  County,  40  miles 
west  of  Denver.  It  contains  2  churches, 
and  numerous  schools.  Stages  connect 
it  with  Denver.  The  Mining  Journal  is 
published  here.  The  St.  Charles  Hotel 
and  Mountain  House  have  moderate  ac- 
comodations. 

CeMtral  City,  the  capital  of  Gil- 
pin County,  and  a  mountain  mining  town 
of  importance,  is  also  west  of  Denver.  It 
is  the  centre  of  the  famous  Gregory  gold 
mines.  A  number  of  mills  are  in  opera- 
tion here,  and  large  quantities  of  gold 
dust  are  exported.  The  Times,  published 
daily,  contains  all  items  of  interest  to 
travellers  through  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
The  first  house  was  erected  in  1859.  It 
now  contains  4  churches,  2  schools,  and 
a  population  of  4,000.  St.  Nicholas 
Hotel,  Keystone  House,  and  Connor 
House. 

Eisapirc  City,  on  the  North  Clear 
Creek,  15  miles  from  Central  City,  is  in  a 
rich  lode-mining  region.  Its  population 
is  1,000. 

Colorado  City  is  near  the  base 
of  Pike's  Peak,  on  Fontaine  que  Brouille, 
a  tributary  of  the  Arkansas.  It  is  100 
miles  south  of  Denver. 

CasiOBa  City  is  on  the  Arkansas, 
120  miles  south  of  Denver.  Pueblo  is 
40  miles  below  Canon  City,  and  100  miles 
southwest  of  Denver. 

Hamilton,  Montgomery,  and  Torry  are 
situated  100  miles  west  of  Denver,  among 
the  southwestern  lode  mines.  They  are 
all  growing  settlements. 

Other  thriving  settlements  are  found 
upon  the  western  slope  of  the  Snowy 
Range  Mountains,  among  the  silver  mines 
and  the  quartz-lode  mines  of  that  re- 
gion. 

285 


•:f 


Yankton.] 


DACOTAH. 


[Vermilion. 


DACOTAH. 


Dacotah  was  organized  as  a  Territory 
Maixh  2, 1861.  It  is  situated  directly  west 
of  Minnesota  and  on  the  northwestern  part 
of  Iowa.  It  has  absorbed  much  of  the 
western  part  of  the  old  Territory  of  Min- 
nesota, and  of  the  eastern  part  of  Ne- 
braska. Its  length  from  east  to  west  is 
about  '750  miles,  and  its  area  152,000 
square  miles.  The  western  part  of  the 
Territory  is  very  mountainous.  The 
Rocky  Mountain  range  extends  along  the 
western  boundary.  The  Black  Hills, 
which  belong  to  the  Rocky  Mountain 
range,  traverse  the  more  central  and 
southern  portion.  Fremont's  Peak  and 
Laramie  Peak  belong  to  this  range.  The 
principal  rivers  are  the  Missouri,  the  Red 
River  of  the  North,  and  the  North  Fork 
of  the  Platte,  The  Missouri  washes  its 
eastern  and  southern  border,  and  drains 
a  large  portion  of  the  Territory.  The 
climate  of  Dacotah  is  healthful  and 
genial,  and  the  soil  is  well  suited  to  agri- 
cultural and  grazing  purposes,  being  rich 
in  tlie  yield  of  grain,  fruits,  and  vegeta- 
bles. The  first  white  settlements  were 
made  in  1858-59  at  Sioux  Falls,  Vermil- 
ion, and  Yankton.  The  Yankton  and  the 
Ponca  Indians,  also  the  \Vinnebago,  the 
Sioux,  and  the  Santee  tribes  (recently  re- 
moved from  Minnesota),  have  extensive 
reservations  on  the  Missouri  River  and 
on  the  Niobrara  above  Yankton.  They 
286 


are  reported  to  have  become  domesti- 
cated, and  to  be  devoting  themselves  to 
agriculture  and  stock-raising.  Dacotah 
has  numerous  lakes,  the  largest  of  which 
is  Winni-Waken  or  Devil  Lake.  Tho 
principal  avenues  of  travel  to  and  through 
the  Territory  are  by  boat  up  the  Missouri 
River  to  Yankton,  or  by  the  overland  mail 
line  to  Fort  Laramie.  A  bill  organizing 
the  Territory  of  Wyoming,  out  of  Daco- 
tah, was  introduced  in  the  o8th  Congress, 
but  failed  to  pass. 

"S^aiaS^tou,  the  capital,  is  situated 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  Missouri,  1  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Dacotah  River, 
and  65  miles  north  of  the  Iowa  line. 
Population,  750.  The  other  principal  set- 
tlements are  Big  Sioux  Point,  Elk  Point, 
Maley  Creek,  Vermilion,  Bonhomrae, 
Greenv/ood,  and  Fort  Randall.  Fort 
Abercrombie  is  on  the  Red  River  of  the 
North,  near  the  Mmnesota  line.  Large 
quantities  of  valuable  furs  and  peltries 
are  obtained  from  Dacotah ;  and  recently, 
indications  have  appeared  of  the  exist- 
ence, in  the  Black  Hills,  300  miles  west 
from  Yankton,  of  good  supplies  of  gold, 
iron,  and  coal. 

VermiBiosi  is  on  the  Missouri 
River,  30  miles  southeast  of  Yankton, 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Sioux  River. 
Here  is  located  the  United  States  Land- 
Olhce  for  the  Territory. 


ACEOSS    THE    CONTINENT. 

TABLE  OF  DISTANCES  FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO   TO  NEW  YORK, 
JBY  STEAMBOAT,  STAGE,  AND  RAILWAY. 


Miles.  Miles. 

From  Snn  Francisco 

To  Sacramento  (by  steamboat) 125 

From  Sacramento 

To  Arciide 7i 

"'  Antelope , 15 

"  Junction 18 

"  Eockliu 22 

"  Pino 25 

"  ISTewcastle 31 

"  Auburn 36 

"  Clipper  Gap 43 

"  Coltax 54 

"  Gold  Eun 64 

"  Dutch  Flat , 6T 

"  Alta 69 

"  Shady  Eun 73 

"  Blue  Canon 78 

'*  Emigrant  Gap 84 

"  *Cisco 93 

"  Summit 105^ 

"  Truckee  Eiver .,. 120 

"  State  Line. IBS 

"  Virginia  City 162    162 

From  Virginia  City 

To  Nevada 33 

'■  Cottonwood 50 

"  Old  Eiver 66 

"  Stillwater 81 

"  Mountain  Wells 96 

"  Fairview , 112 

"  West  Gate 127 

"  Cold  Springs 141 

"  Edwards's  Creek 156 

"  New  Pass 170 

"  Mount  Airy 184 

"  Eeese  Eiver 195 

"  Austin 204 

"  Cape  Horn 218 

"  Drv  Creek 234 

"  Grub's  Wells 250 

"  Eoberts's  Creek 263 

"  Sulphur  Springs 273 

"•  Diamond  Mountain  Springs 292 

"  Jacob's  Well 304 

"  EuBY  Valley 319    319 

From  Euby  Valley 

To  Mountain  Spring? 10 

"  Butte  Wells  Station .". .  27 

"  Egan  Canon 42 

Boundary  Line  between  Nevada  and  Utah. 


*  See  Central  Pacific  Eailway  connections,  p. 
1288. 


m     CI,   n  /-I       1  M\\c&.  MUes. 

To  Shell  Creek 58 

"  Spring  Valley 72 

"  Antelope  Springs 88 

"Eight-mile  Station ."ill 

"  Deep  Creek ]]9 

"  Canon  Station  (silver  mines) '..  !l32 

"  Willow  Springs 147 

"  Boyd's  Well.  .T \  .'157 

''  Fish  Springs 168 

'•  Black  Eock 171 

"  Dugway  Station ]  87 

"■  Eiver  Bed 197 

"  Simpson's  Springs ^207  ' 

"  Point  Lookout '..  .224 

"  Eush  Valley ' ' '  '283 

"  Centre  Station "  244 

"  Fort  Crittenden ! !  ".'2f;4 

"  Jordan  Eiver  Station .'2G5 

"  Point  of  Mountain 276 

"  Mill  Creek 3ul 

"  Salt  Lake  City 811    811 

From  San  Francisco  to  Great  Salt  Lake 917 

From  Oaiaha 

To  Pajjpillion 17^ 

"  Elkhorn .*  *  sSf 

"  Tremont 4Ci 

"  North  Bend .".,'  6l|- 

"  Shell  Creek 7^ 

"  Columbus 91^ 

"  Silver  Creek 109 

"  Lone  Tree 18]^ 

"  Grand  Island 158^ 

"  Wood  Eiver ' .  .171^ 

"  Kearney ....  1 90 

"  Elm  Creek ...211 

"  Plum  Creek ! !  .230 

'"  Willow  Island 250 

"  Brady  Island 268 

"  North  Platte 290  290 

From  North  Platte 

To  Bishop's  (swing  station) 10 

"  Fremont  Springs 20 

"  Bakers 29 

"  Bradstreet's 88 

"  Alkali  (home  station) 46 

"  Sand  Hills 56 

"  Diamond  Springs 67 

"  Elbow 77 

"  Buttes .'.!.*.".'  87 

"  Julesburg  (home  station) 96 

"  Fort  Sedgwick, 97 

"  Gillett's  (swing  station) '..  .'1O6 

"  Antelope us 

"  Mound \\\ !! !l29 

"  Eiversides  (home  station).'.."  .'.'.".".'.1.39 
"  Valley  Station  (swing  station) 149 

287 


TABLE    OF    DISTANCES. 


Miles.  Jlilea. 

To  Fairview 161 

"  Godfrey's  (home  station) 172 

"  Beaver  Creek  (swing  station) 1>*3 

"  Douglas's  Kanche : 195 

"  Junction  (home  station) 20G 

"  Bijou  (swing  station) 218 

"  Kock  Blutfs 231 

•'  Mule  Creek 241 

"  Living  Springs  (home  station) 249 

"  Kiowa  (swing  station) 259 

"  Box  Alder 2T0 

"  Toll  Gate 281 

"  Denver 290    290 

"    I  Golden  City  (swing  station),  . . .  )        803 

"  •<  Lake  House  (swing  station) >-       313 

"    I  Michigan  House  (swing  station)..  )        319 
"  Central  City  (swing  station) 331    831 

From  Denver 

To  Church's  (swing  station) 11 

"  Boulder 22 

"  Burlington  (home  station) 33 

"  Little  Thompson  (swing station).. .  43 

"  Big  Thompson 53 

"  Spring  Canon 63 

"  La  Porte  (home  station) 71 

"  Overland  Park  (swing  station) 81 

"  Vircfinia  Dale  (home  station) 89 

'•  Willow  Springs  (swing  station) 103 

"  Big  Laramie  (home  station) 118 

"  Little  Laramie  (swing  station) 135 

'•  Cooper's  Creek  (home  station) 150 

"  Medicine  Bow  (swing  station) 161 

"  Eock  Creek 169 

"  Wagon  Hound 171 

"  Elk^Mountain  (home  station) 179 

"  Pass  Creek  (swing  station) 191 

"  North  Platte  (home  station) 207 

"  Sage  Creek  (swing  station) 222 

"  Pine  Grove 233 

"  Bridger  Pass 242 

"  Sulphur  Springs  (home  station) 251 

"  Waskie  (swing  station) 262 

"  Duck  Lake 275 

"  Dug  Sprina:. 287 

"  La  Clede  (home  station) 303 

"  Big  Pond  (swing  station) 318 

"  Black  Buttes  (swing  station) 329 

"  liock  Point 343 

"  Salt  Wells 356 

"  Hock  Springs 361 

"  (Jreen  Kiver  (home  station) 378 

"  Lone  Tree  (swing  station) 393 

"  Antelope 401 

"  South  Bend 410 

"  Church  Buttes 422 

"  Millersville 450 

"  Port  Bridger  (home  station) 463 

"  Muddy  (swing  station) 475 

"  Quaking  Asp 485 

"  Bear  Kiver  (home  station) 495 

"  Needle  Kock  (swing  station) 505 

"  Echo  Cafion 515 

"  Hanging  Kock 528 

"  AVeber  (hume  station) 535 

"  Daniel's  (swing  station) 547 

"  Kimball's  (home  station) 559 

"  Hardy's  (swing  station) 573 

"  Salt  Lake  City 596    596 

Recapitulation. 

San  FrancLsco  to  Sacnimeuto  (steamboat)..  125 

Sacramento  to  Cisco  (railway) 93 

288 


Miles. 

Cisco  to  Virginia  City  (stage) 69 

Virginia  City  to  Ruby  Valley  (stage) 319 

Ruby  Valley  to  Great' Salt  Lake  City  (stage)  311 

Great  Salt  Lake  City  to  Denver  (stage) 596 

Denver  to  North  Platte,  terminus  of  U.  P. 

R.  R.  (stage) 290 

North  Platte  to  Omaha  (U.  P.  Railwav) 290 

Omaha  to  Chicago  (C.  &  N.  W.  R.  R.) 494 

Chicago  to  New  York,  via  Pittsburg 911 

Grand  total 3,498 

Total  distance  by  railway 1,788 

"  stage 1,585 

"  steamboat 325 

3,498 

Table  of  Distances  from  Sacramento 
to  Boise  City,  Idaho,  by  the  Hum.- 
boldt  Boute— 

Miles.  Miles. 

Sacramento  to  Cisco  by  railroad 93 

Cisco  to  Crystal  Peak,  "by  stage 51  144 

Crystal  Peak  to  Hunter's 8  152 

Hunter's  to  Big  Bend  of  Truckee 35  187 

Big  Bend  to  Humboldt  Lake 41  228 

Humboldt  Lake  to  Star  City 52  2s0 

Star  City  to  Dun  Gk-n 13  298 

Dun  Glen  to  Humboldt  Bridge 23^  321^- 

Humboldt  Bridge  to  Toil  House 11  332^ 

Toll  House  to  WiUow  Point Si  341 

Willow  Point  to  Cane  Springs 15|  35(I|- 

Cane  Springs  to  Rebel  Creek 15  371  j- 

Rebel  Creek  to  Camp  McDermott 24  395^ 

Camp  McDermott  to  Summit  Springs.25  420^ 

Summit  Springs  to  Dry  Creek ,".  .15  435-J^ 

Dry  Creek  to  Owyhee  River  Ferry.  ..21^  457 

Ferry  to  Inskip's  or  Cow  Creek 19  476 

Inskip's  to  Camp  Lyon ISJ  494|' 

Camp  Lyon  to  Ruby  Citv 14  50^^ 

Ruby  City  to  Snake  Kiver  Ferry 23  ^M'\ 

Ferry  to  Boise  City 26  562^ 

Distance  by  Railroad 93 

Distance  by  Wagon-Road 469^  562^ 

Central    Pacific     Railroad    Connec- 
tions. 

AX  Junction,  I'^i  miles  from  Sacramento,  the 
road  connects  with  the  Califoniia  Central  and 
Yuba  Railroads,  completed  within  6  miles  of 
Marysville,  where  a  connection  will  be  formed 
Avith  the  OrovUle  Railroad,  and  thence  by 
stages,  alTording  transportation  to  the  following 
places  :  Lincoln,  11  miles  from  Junction  ;  Marys- 
ville (33) ;  Oroville  (59)  ;  Chico  (79) ;  Tehama 
(111) ;  Red  Bluffs  (123)  ;  Shasta  (153)  ;  Trinity 
Centre  (208) ;  Callahan's  (233);  Yreka  (273) ;  Port- 
land, Oregon,  622  miles.  At  Aubu)-n,'d&  miles 
from  Sacramento,  stages  to  Ophir  (4),  and  Gold 
Hill  (6  miles) ;  also  to  Greenwood  (12),  and 
Georgetown  (16  miles);  also  to  Grizzly  Bear 
House  (6) ;  Yankee  JinVs  (18) ;  Forrest  Hill  (22) ; 
and  Michigan  BlulFs,  28  miles.  At  Co//a.}\  54 
miles  from  Sacramento,  willi  stages  to  Grass  Val- 
ley (12) :  Nevada  (16) ;  San  Juan  (30) ;  and  Dowu- 
leville  (58  miles).  Also  to  Iowa  Hill  (6).  Wis- 
consin Hill  (s),  and  Yankee  Jim's  (12  miles). 
Also  to  You  IJet.  Walloupa,  Red  Dog,  and  Little 
York,  from  6  to  10  miles  distant.  At  Cifico,  93 
miles  from  Sacramento,  with  Enterprise  (4),  an4 
Meadow  Lake  (12  miles).  Also  with  sta<»cs  of 
the  Great  Overland  Route. 


THE    BEITISH    PEOYIEOES 


13 


THE  BRITISH  PROVINCES. 


-4"^>- 


[The  possessions  of  the  British  Crown  in  North  America  occupy  nearly  all  the  upper 
half  of  the  continent;  a  vast  territory,  reaching  from  the  Arctic  seas  to  the  domains 
of  the  United  States,  and  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  Oceans.  Of  this  great 
region,  our  present  explorations  will  refer  only  to  the  lower  and  settled  portions, 
known  as  the  British  Provinces,  embracing  the  Canadas,  New  Brunswick,  and  Nova 
Scotia.     The  rest  is,  for  the  most  part,  yet  a  wilderness.] 

CANADA. 


Geography  and  Area. — Canada,  the 
largest  and  most  important  of  the  settled 
portions  of  the  British  territory  in  North 
America,  lies  upon  the  northern  border 
of  the  United  States,  from  the  Atlan- 
tic coast  to  the  waters  of  Lake  Superior 
and  the  Mississippi.  The  two  provinces 
into  which  it  is  divided  were  formerly 
known  as  Lower  and  Upper  Canada,  or 
Canada  East  and  Canada  West ;  and  thus, 
indeed,  their  dilTering  manners,  habits, 
and  laws,  stiU  virtually  divide  and  distin- 
guish them,  though  they  are  novir  nomi- 
nally and  politically  united.  The  entire 
length  of  the  Canadian  frontier,  from  east 
to  west,  is  between  1,200  and  1,300  miles, 
Avith  a  breadth  varying  from  200  to  300 
miles. 

Discovert,  Settlement,  and  Rulers. 
— The  earliest  discovery  of  Canada  (MO*?) 
is  ascribed  to  Sebastian  Cabot.  Jacques 
Cartier,  a  French  adventurer,  spent  the 
winter  of  1541  at  St.  Croix,  now  the 
River  St.  Charles,  upon  which  Quebec  is 
partly  built.  The  first  permanent  settle- 
ment, however,  was  at  Tadousac,  at  the 
couBuence  of  the  Saguenay  and  the  St. 
Lawrence.  From  that  time  (about  1608) 
until  1V59,  the  conntvy  continued  under 
the  rule  of  France ;  and  then  came'  the 
capture  of  Quebec  by  tl^e  English,  under 
General  Wolfe,  and  the  transfer,  within  a 
year  thereafter,  of  all  the  territory  of  New 
France,  as  the  country  was  at  that  time 
called,  to  the  British  power,  under  which 


it  has  ever  since  remained.  The  mutual 
disagreement  which  naturally  arose  from 
the  conflicting  interests  and  prejudices  of 
the  two  opposing  nationalities,  threatened 
internal  trouble  from  time  to  time,  and 
finally  displayed  itself  in  the  overt  acts 
recorded  in  history  as  the  rebellion  of 
1837.  It  was  after  these  incidents,  and 
as  a  consequence  thereof,  that  the  two 
sections  of  the  territory  were  formed  into 
one.     This  happened  in  1840. 

Government. — Canada  is  ruled  by  an 
executive,  holding  the  title  of  Governor- 
General,  received  from  the  crown  of  Great 
Britain,  and  by  a  legislature  called  the 
Provincial  Parliament.  This  body  con- 
sists of  an  Upper  and  a  Lower  House ; 
the  members  of  the  one  were  formerly  ap- 
pointed by  the  Queen,  but  now  (as  fast  as 
those  thus  placed  die)  this  body  is,  like 
the  other  branch,  chosen  by  the  people, 
each  member  for  a  term  of  eight  years. 

Religion.  —  The  dominant  religious 
faith  in  Lower  Canada,  or  Canada  East,  is 
that  of  the  Romish  Church  ;  while  in  the 
Upper  Province  the  creed  of  the  Enghsh 
Established  Church  prevails. 

Landscape. — The  general  topography 
of  Upper  or  Western  Canada  is  that  of  a 
level  country,  with  but  few  variations  ex- 
cepting the  passage  of  some  table-heights, 
extending  southwesterly.  It  is  the  most 
fertile  division  of  the  territory,  and  thus, 
to  the  tourist  in  search  of  the  picturesque, 
the  least  attractive.     The  Lower  Province, 

435 


Springs.] 


CANADA. 


[Railways. 


or  Canada  East,  is  extreTiic4y  varied  and 
beautiful  in  its  physical  aspect ;  present, 
in'    0   the  delighted  eye  a  magnificen 
craUery   of  charming   pictures   o     lore^ 
fvid'  vast  prairies,  hill  and  rock-bound 
r-ivers  rushing  waters,  and  bold  mountain 
h  ithis     everywhere    intern,  ngled,  ^  and 
S   attractions    embellished    by    mter- 
venin'^  stretches  of  cultivated  fields,  rural 
villages,  and  villa  homes 

MouNTAiNS.-The  hill-ranges  of  Cana 
da  are  confined  entirely  to  the  lower  or 
eastern  province.     The  chief  hues,  cal  ed 
Se   Gre^en  Mountains,  follow  a  paral  el 
course  southwesterly.     They  he  along  the 
St  Lawrence  lUver,  on  its  southern  side, 
exten' h  '  from  thc'latitude  of  Quebec  to 
the  Gulf-  of  St.  Lawrence.     There  is  an- 
other  and   corresponding   range   on     he 
north  side  of  the  river,  f^^^h  ^/'^^Tf?| 
elevation    of    about    1,000    feet        T It 
Mealy  Mountains,  which  extend  to  Sand-  1 
wich  Bav,  rise  in  snow-capped  pe^ks  to 
The  hei^^it  of  1,500  feet.     The  Wotchish 
llountains,  a  short,  crescent-shaped  group 
He  between  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  and 

Hudson's  Bay.  , 

RivERS.-Oanada  has  many  noble  and 

beautiful  rivers,  as  the  St.  L^^yX^ild 
of  the  great  waters  of  the  world  ;  the  w  ild, 
luntdn-shored   Hoods   of  the   Ottawa 
and  the  Saguenav;  and  the  lesser  watei. 
of  the  Sorel  or  Richelieu,  the  St.  Francis, 
the  Chaudiere,  and  other  streams. 

SPIillfGS. 


Rivers,  a  landing  of  the  St.  Lawrence 

steamers.  .       ,         o.     rotTrir- 

S4.    Calliarme's.— St.    I^athar 

ine's,  Canada  West,  on  xhc  Great  11  extern 
Railway,   U    miles  from  .^^^^g^^a  F^^^' 
and  32  miles  from  Hamilton      See  St 
Catharine's,  en  route  from   Montreal  to 
Niagara,  via  the  St.  Lawrence. 


The  Caledonia  Springs.-- 

The  Caledonia  Springs,  a  place  of  inuch 
resort,  are  at  the  village  of  Caledonia  /- 
miles  from  Montreal.  Leave  Montreal 
by  the  Lachinc  Railway,  and  take  the 
sLmer  to  Carillon.  At  Fomt  i  oi^une 
opposite  Carillon,  on  the  other  side  ot 
thi  Ottawa,  take  stage  to  the  Springs, 
aniving  the  same  evening. 

PlantaR-eiiet  SprJL.ift-s.-From 
Montreal  to  i'oint  Fortune,  as  m  the  route 
to  the  Caledonia  Springs ;  and  thence  b) 

stage,  arriving  same  ^-f;^^"^';.. ,^^f!j;;,'^'. 
88  miles.    The  consumption  ot  the     i  lan 
ta-enet  water  "  is  said  to  be  very  great. 
XBic  §t.  I.eou  Spi-i««S!*  are  at 

the  village  of  St.  Leon,  on  the  Kiviere  du 
Loup,  "  en  haut,"   between  Montreal  and 
Quebec ;  26  miles  by  stage  from  Three 
436 


WATERFALLS  IN  CANADA. 
Niagara. -(See   chapter  on    the 

State  of  New  York.)  . 

Falls  ol'i^Iontmoreiici.— (bee 

^^'ffUe  Clmwdierc  Falls,  on  the 

Ottawa.  -KT,    ii„      n-io 

Tltc  Cliaiidierc  Falls,    Qae- 

bec—( See  City  OF  Quebec.) 

%lL   Hideaw  Falls.-(See  Ot- 

TAV\'A  River.) 

ISae  Falls  of  Sliawanegan 

'  are  on  the  River  St.  Mauiice,   25   miles 
froni  Three  Rivers,  on  the  St.  Lawrence 
River,   between  Montreal  and    Quebec 
The  St.  Maurice,  186  feet  in  breadth  «it 
this  point,  makes  a  perpendicular  descent 
of  about '200  feet.     The  m^posmg  char- 
actcr  of  this  scene  is,  as  yet  but  httlc 
known.     Between  the  lalls  and  the  town 
of  Three  Rivers  the  St.  Maurice  aflords 
excellent  fishing.  ., 

St.  Aiiue's  Falls  are  24  miles 
below  Quebec— (See  Quebec.) 

RAILWAYS. 
The  Grand  Trnnl  connects  Montreal 
.^-ith  Quebec,  and  each  with  Portland  in 
Maine      From   Montreal  it   follows  the 
upper  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  of 
Lake  Ontario  to  Toronto,  and  thence  con- 
tinues westward,  across  the  Penmsula  ot 
Canada  West,  via   Port   Sarma,   on  the 
southern  extremitv  of  Lake  Huron  to  the 
city  ^Detroit,  in-Michigan.     The  whole 
S^th    of    the    road,   with    its   present 

t.  °  1  ^.  ;=  1  0,^0  miles  It  connects 
branches,   is    l,OoU   muc^.^ 

with  routes  to  ^Niagara  lalls,  ;vitti  the 
line  of  the  Great  Western  and  i^cW 
and  MihoauTcee  Railways,  and  with  othei 
routes  to  the  West  and  Northwest. 

The  Great  Western  Radway  extendi 
from  Niagara  Falls,  229  ^^^l^^'^f  \^^ 
Detroit,  Michigan,  conncctmg  Avith  the 
Michi-in  Central  route  for  Chicago,  etc. 

T\,t  Montreal  and  New  lark  road  ex- 


Montreal.] 


CANADA. 


[Montreal. 


tends  from  Montreal,  67  miles,  to  Platts- 
burg,  and  is  a  part  of  a  route  from  Mon- 
treal to  New  York. 

The  Champlaln  and  St.  Lawrence  Rail- 
warj  extends  from  Montreal,  44  miles,  to 
Rouse'  sPoint  on  Lake  Champlaln,  thence 
to  New  York,  Boston,  etc. 

The  Xorihcni  Ha'dwai/  of  Canada  ex- 
tends, 94  miles,  from  Toronto  on  Lake 
Ontario  to  CollingwooJ  on  the  Georgian 
Bay,  Lake  Huron.  It  forms  part  of  a 
pleasant  route  from  New  York  to  Lake 
Superior. 

The  Ottawa  and  Prescott  Railway  ex- 
tends from  Prescott  (opposite  Ogdens- 
burg),  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  54  miles,  to 
Ottawa,  on  the  Ottawa  River. 

The  RamUton  and  'Toronto  Branch  ex- 
tends, 38  miles,  from  Toronto  to  Hamilton, 
connecting  the  Grand  Trunk  and  the 
Great  Western  routes. 

The  Coburg  and  Pcterhoro''  Railway^ 
28  miles,  from  Peterboro'  to  Coburg,  on 
the  line  of  the  Grand  Trunk^  between 
Montreal  and  Toronto. 

Many  other  routes  are  either  in  prog- 
ress or  in  contemplation — Canada  vying 
with  the  "  States  "  in  this  field  of  enter- 
prise. 

MONTHEAIi. 

Hotels,  the  Bt.  Lawrence  Ilall^  Great 
St.  James  Street,  a  tine  house,  centrally 
located  and  well  kept;  the  Donegaua^ 
Notre-Dame  Street;,  the  Ottawa,  Great 
St.  Jamee  Street ;  and  the  Montreal  House, 
Custom-House  Square,  and  opposite  the 
Custom-House.  Besides  these  leadiug 
establishments,  there  are  many  other 
comfortable  houses  and  cafes,  whei-e 
travellers  of  all  ranks  and  classes  may 
be  lodged  and  regaled  according  to  the 
varied  humors  of  their  palates  and  their 
purses. 

Montreal  may  be  reached  daily  from 
New  York  in  from  15  to  18  hours,  by  the 
Hudson  River  or  Harlem  Railways  to 
Troy  ;  rail  to  Whitehall,  and  steamer  on 
Lake  Champlaln ;  or  by  I'ail  through  Ver- 
mont, via  Rutland,  Burlington,  and  St. 
Albans  to  Rouse's  Point,  or  via  Platts- 
burg  on  Lake  Champlaln.  From  Boston, 
via  Albany,  or  other  routes  to  Lake 
Champlaln,  etc.  ;  or,  via  Portland  and 
the  Grand  Tru.ik  Railway  \  time  30  hours. 


Montreal,    the    metropolis    of  British 
North  America,  is  situated  on  an  island 
of  the  same  name,  about  thirty  miles  long 
and   ten    wide,    which    is   formed   by   a 
branch  of  the  Ottawa  on  the  north  and 
the  St.  Lawrence  on  the  south,   and  lies 
at    the   foot   of  a   mountain,    to   which 
Jacques  Cartier,  in  1535,  surveying  with 
delight   the   magnificent    prospect,   gave 
the  name  of  "  Mont  Royal."     The  pres- 
ent site  of  Montreal  was  occupied,  at  the 
time  of  Cartier's  first  visit,  by  an  Indian 
village   called  Hochelaga.     In    1542  the 
first  European  settlers  arrived,   and  just 
one   century   later    the    original   Indian 
name,  consequent  on  the  consecration  of 
the  spot  on  which  the  future  city  was  to 
stand  and  its  commendation  to  La  Reine 
des  Anr/eSj  gave  place  to  the  French  one 
of  "  Yille  Marie."     This  new  name,  in  its 
turn,  was  replaced  by  the  present  one,  in 
1760,  the  date  of  British  posse :sion  ;  at 
which  period  Montreal  had  become  a  well- 
peopled    and    well-fortified    town.      Its 
population   is    now  (186'7)  estimated  at 
125,000,  and  is  rapidly  on  the  increase. 
The  main  branch  of  the  Ottawa,  which  is 
the   timber  highway   to   Quebec,  passes 
north  of  Montreal  Island,  and  enters  the 
St.  Lawrence  about  18  miles  below  the 
city  ;    about   one-third  of  its   waters  is, 
howevei',  discharged  into  Lake  St.  Louis, 
and  joining  but  not  mingling  at  Caughna- 
waga,  the  two  distinct  bodies  pass  over 
the  Sault  St.  Louis  and  Lachiue  Rapids 
— the  dark  waters  of  the  Ottawa  washing 
the  quays  of  Montreal,  while  the  blue  St. 
Lawrence  occupies  the  other  shore.     Nor 
do  they  merge  their  distinctive  character 
until  they  are  several  miles  below  Montreal. 
The  quays  of  Montreal  are  unsurpassed 
by  those  of  any  city  in  America  ;  built  of 
solid   limestone,    and   uniting    with    the 
locks    and   cut-stone  wharves  of  the  La- 
chine  Canal,  they  present  for  several  miles 
a  display  of  continuous  masonry,  which 
has  few  parallels.     Unlike  the  levees  of 
the  Ohio  and  the  Mississippi,  no  unsightly 
warehouses  disfigure  the  river-side.      A 
broad  esplanade  or  terrace,  built  of  lime- 
stone,   the   parapets    of    which   are  sur- 
mounted with  a  substantial  iron  raihng. 
The  houses  in  the  suburbs  are  hand- 
somely  built   in   the   modern   style,  and 
mostly    inhaljited    by  the  wealthy  mer- 
chants.   Including  its  suburbs,  of  which  it 

437 


MOXTREAL.] 


CAXADA. 


[Montreal. 


has  several,  the  city  stretches  alouc;  the 
river  for  two  miles  from  southwest  to 
northeast,  and,  for  some  distance,  extends 
between  one  and  two  miles  inland.  St. 
Paul  Street,  the  chief  commercial  thor- 
oui^lifare,  extends  alonpj  the  river  the 
whole  lengtli  of  the  city.  Great  St.  James 
and  Notre-Dame  Streets  are  the  fashion- 
able promenades.  ^Montreal,  with  its 
beautiful  villas,  its  glittering  roofs  and 
domes  (all  the  latter  being  covered  with 
tin),  its  tall  spires  and  lofty  towers,  and 
its  majestic  mountain  in  the  background, 
bursting  on  the  eye  of  the  tourist,  ap- 
proach it  from  what  direction  he  may, 
forms,  together  with  the  noble  river,  a 
vast  and  picturesque  panorama  that  is, 
perhaps,  unequalled  in  the  whole  of  the 
American  continent. 

The  "  Ice  Shove,"  a  most  imposhig 
spectacle,  may  be  witnessed  by  those 
travellers  who  arrive  at  Montreal  toward 
the  beginning  of  April.  This  strange 
phenomenon  results  from  the  crowding 
of  the  ice  about  a  mile  below  the  city, 
where  the  channel  of  the  river  is  com- 
paratively narrow ;  there  it  is  packed^ 
2nied,  and  frozen  into  a  solid  mass  of 
twenty  to  tbirty  feet  in  tliickness,  which, 
when  lifted  by  the  rising  waters  above, 
and  set  in  motion  again  by  the  whole  hy- 
draulic power  of  the  gigantic  stream,  ruslies 
onward  until  again  impeded  by  the  banks 
of  the  narrowing  river.  The  lateral 
pressure  it  there  exerts  forces  the  hordagc 
up  on  the  land,  where  it  not  unfrequently 
accumulates  to  the  height  of  50  feet. 
Montreal  is  conspicuous  among  the  cities 
of  the  New  World  for  the  number  and 
magnificence  of  her  public  buildings. 
The  principal  of  these  is  the  cathedial 
of  Notre-lJamc^  said  to  bo  the  largest 
church  on  the  continent.  The  cost  of 
the  cathedral  was  $400,000,  and  it  is 
capable  of  seating  10,000  persons.  It  is 
surmounted  by  two  stately  towers,  each 
220  feet  high,  from  the  toj)  of  which  is  a 
complete  view  of  the  city,  the  Kiver  St. 
Lawrence,  the  colossal  tubular  bridge,  and 
the  blue  hills  of  Vermont  in  the  distance. 
At  certain  hours  of  the  day  a  chime  of 
bells  peal  forth  their  merry  notes  from 
the  northeast  tower,  and  from  tlic  north- 
west is  sometimes  heard  the  hoarse,  hol- 
low tone  of  the  "  (Jros  Bourdon,"  which 
Avcighs  29,400  pounds.  This  noble  edi- 
438 


fice  is  255  feet  long  and  135  broad. 
The  Bonaccours  Market  is  an  imposing 
Doric  edifice,  erected  at  a  cost  of  $300,000, 
and,  as  regards  the  convenience  of  its  ar- 
rangements and  the  spaciousness  of  its 
construction,  it  throws  into  the  shade  all 
similar  structures  on  this  continent.  In 
one  of  the  upper  stories  are  the  offices  of 
the  Corporation  and  Council  Chamber, 
and  a  concert  or  ball  room  capable  of 
accommodating  4,000  people.  The  view 
from  the  dome,  overlooking  the  river  and 
St.  Helen's  Isle,  is  truly  grand. 

The  Nelson  Monumcnf,  an  elegant  col- 
umn erected  to  the  memory  of  that  re- 
nowned naval  hero,  stands  at  the  head 
of  the  Place  Jacques  Cartier. 

The  Seminary  of  St.  Sulpice,  adjoining 
the  Cathedral  Notre  Dame,  is  132  feet 
long,  and  29  deep,  and  is  surrounded  by 
spacious  gardens  and  court-yards. 

The  Bank  of  Montreal  and  the  City 
Bank,  the  first  a  fine  example  of  Corin- 
thian architecture,  stand  side  by  side  on 
the  Place  d'Armes. 

St.  Batrick^s  Church  (Catholic)  occu- 
pies a  commanding  position  at  the  west 
end  of  Lagauchetiere  Street.  The  Bish- 
op's Church  (Catholic),  in  St.  Denis 
Street,  is  a  very  elegant  structure.  The 
remaining  Catholic  churches  are  the  Be- 
CoUect  in  Notre-Dame  Street,  the  Bonse- 
cours,  near  the  large  market,  and  St. 
Marfs  in  Grifiintown.  There  are  also 
chapels  attached  to  all  the  nunneries,  in 
some  of  which  excellent  pictures  may  be 
seen. 

Nunneries. — The  Gray  /\^un.9,  inFouni'- 
ling  Street,  was  founded  in  1692,  for  the 
care  of  lunatics  and  children.  The  Hotel 
Bleu  was  established  in  1644,  for  the 
sick  generally.  The  Black,  or  Congrega- 
tional Nunnery,  in  Notre-Darae  Street, 
dates  from  1659.  The  sisterhood,  at  this 
third  and  last  of  the  conventual  establish- 
ments of  Montreal,  devote  themselves  to 
the  education  of  young  persons  of  their 
own  sex.  The  stranger  desirous  of  visit>- 
ing  either  of  the  nunneries  should  apply 
to  the  Lady  Superior  for  admission, 
which  is  seldom  refused.  The  Protestant 
churches  worthy  of  notice  are  St.  An- 
drew''s  Churc/i,  a  beautiful  specimen  of 
Gothic  architecture,  being  a  close  imita- 
tion of  Salisbury  Cathedral,  in  England, 
though  of  course  on  a  greatly  reduced 


tNTREAL.] 


CANADA. 


[Ottawa  River. 


Je.     This,  with  Sf.  Paul's  Churchy  in 

Helen  Street,  are  in  connection  with 

;  Established  Church  of  Scotland.     The 

iscopalian  churches  are,  the  beautiful 

w   edifice,    Christ    Clmrch    Cathedral^ 

•    George's  Churchy  in  St.  Joseph  Street, 

Stephen\<^,  in  Griffintown,    Trinity^  in 

Paul  Street,  and  St.   Thomases,  in  St. 

IT  Street.     Various   other   denomiua- 

ns  of  Christians    have   churches — the 

.^sleyans,  a   large  and  very  handsome 

ilding   in   St.  James  Street,   and  also 

lers     in     Griffintown     and    Montcalm 

eet ;  the   Independents   formerly    had 

3   houses,  but   now   only  the   one   in 

degonde   Street.      This   last   was   the 

;ne  of  the  sad  riot  and  loss  of  life  on 

;  occasion  of  Gavazzi's  lecture  in  lSo2. 

e    newly-crccted    Jesuit     church,    in 

jury   Street,  has   the   most  highly  or- 

nented  interior  to  be  found  in  the  city. 

e  Free  Church  has  also  two  places  of 

rship  one  in  Cote  Street,  and  one  in  St. 

briel  Street ;  besides  these,  there  are 

!  American  and  the  United  Presbyte- 

n,    the    Baptist,    and    the    Unitarian 

'  irches ;  and  a  small  Jewish  synagogue, 

;  last  named  being  classical  in  design. 

e  Court-IIouse  is  one  of  the  most  strik- 

.;  of  the  architectural  specialities  of  the 

y.     The  Post- Office  is  in  Great  James 

■eet.      The     Castoin-House    is   a    neat 

ilding  on  the   site   of  an  old  market- 

ice,   between  St.   Paul  Street  and  the 

er.       The    Merchants'    Exchange  and 

adhig-Room  are  in  St.  Sacrament  Street. 

e   latter   is   a   large   and  comfortable 

)m,  well  supplied  with  newspapers  and 

nodicals,  English  and  American,  all  at 

i  service  of  the  stranger  when  properly 

roduced.      The    General  Hospital  and 

Patrick'' s  Hospital  are  in  Dorchester 

•eet,  the  latter,  however,  at  the  west 

d  of  the  town.      McGiWs    College  is 

iutifully  situated  at  the  base  of  the 

luntain.      The  high-school  department 

the  college  is  in  Belmont  Street.      The 

y  also  possesses,  besides  the  university 

McGiirs  College,  many  excellent  insti- 

ions  for  the  promotion  of  learning — 

ench  and   English  seminaries,  a  royal 

immar-school,    with   parochial,    union, 

tional,  Sunday,  and  other  public  schools. 

has   numerous    societies   for   the   ad- 

acement  of  religion,    science,  and   in- 

3try ;  and  several  public  libraries. 


TJie  Water-Works^  a  mile  or  so  from 
the  city,  are  extremely  interesting  for 
their  own  sake,  and  for  the  delightful 
scenery  in  the  vicinity. 

The  Victoria  Bridge,  which  spans  the 
great  St.  Lawrence  at  the  city,  is  "  the 
lion  par  excellence  of  Montreal,  the  eighth 
wonder  of  the  world,  the  link  of  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway,  connecting  (for 
railway  purposes  only)  the  city  of  Mon- 
treal, on  the  island,  with  the  main-land  to 
the  south,  giving  to  the  ancient  Hochelaga 
an  unbroken  railway  communication  of 
1,100  miles  in  length,  besides  connec- 
tions." It  is  one  of  the  noblest  structures 
which  we  shall  see  in  the  whole  long 
course  of  our  American  journeyings.  Its 
length  is  9,194  feet,  or  nearly  2  miles. 
It  rests,  in  this  splendid  transit,  upon  24 
piers  and  2  abutments  of  solid  masonry, 
the  central  span  being  330  feet  in  length. 
The  heavy  iron  tube  through  which  the 
raihvay  track  is  laid  is,  in  its  largest 
dimensions,  22  feet  high  and  16  feet  wide. 
The  total  cost  of  this'bridge  was  $6,300,- 
000.  It  was  formally  opened,  with  high 
pomp  and  ceremony,  amidst  great  popu- 
lar rejoicings,  by  the  young  heir  to  the 
British  Crown,  the  Prince  of  Wales, 
during  his  visit  to  Amei'ica  in  the  summer 
of  1860. 

The  Museum  of  the  Natural  History 
Society,  near  the  Crystal  Palace,  is  well 
worth  seeing.     Admission  25  cents. 

The  Mount  Royal  Cemetery  is  2  miles 
from  the  city,  on  the  northern  slope  of 
the  mountain.  From  the  high  road  i>3und 
its  base,  a  broad  avenue  through  the 
shaded  hill-side  gradually  ascends  to  this 
pleasant  spot.  There  are  other  romantio 
burying-grounds,  both  of  the  Catholic  and 
the  Protestant  population,  in  the  vicinity 
of  Montreal,  and  other  scenes  which  the 
visitor  should  enjoy — pleasant  rides  all 
about,  around  the  mountain  and  by  the 
river,  before  he  bids  good-by  to  the 
Queen  City  of  Canada. 

'I'lac  Otia^vsa  12iver  flows  800 
miles  and  enters  the  St.  Lawrence  on 
both  sides  of  the  Island  of  Montreal,  trav- 
ersing in  its  way  Lake  Temiscaming, 
G"and  Lake,  and  others.  Rapids  and 
falls  greatly  impede  the  navigation  of  its 
waters ;  but  lend  to  them  wonderful 
beauty.  It  is  a  wild  forest  region,  that 
of  the  Ottawa,  but  little  occupied  hereto- 

439 


St.  Lawrence.] 


CANADA. 


[St.  Lavtrence. 


fore  by  others  than  the  rude  lumbermen, 
though   numerous   settlements   are   now 
springing   up,  and  its  agricultural  capa- 
cities are  being  developed. 

MOyTHEAL  TO  NIAGARA  FALLS— UP 
THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER  AND 
LAKE  ONTARIO. 

The  traveller  may  go  from  Montreal  to 
Niagara,  either  by  steamer  on  the  St. 
Lawrence,  or  by  the  Grand  Trunh  Rail- 
way^ 333  miles  to  Toronto  on  Lake  On- 
tario. At  Toronto  he  may  cross  the 
•svestern  end  of  the  lake  to  the  town  of 
Niagara,  and  thence  reach  the  falls  by 
the  Erie  and  Ontario  Railway,  14  miles 
long  ;  or  he  may  go  less  directly  by  wa- 
ter or  by  rail  to  Hamilton,  and  thence  by 
rail  again  to  the*  falls. 

Xise  ^t.  1j  a  ^v  r  e  la  c  c  • — This 
grand  river,  which  drains  the  vast  inland 
seas  of  America,  extends  from  Lake  On- 
tario, 750  miles,  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Law- 
rence, and  thence  to  the  sea.  Its  en- 
tire length,  including  the  great  chain  of 
lakes  by  which  it  is  fed,  is  not  less  than 
2,200  miles.  Ships  of  the  largest  size  as- 
cend the  river  as  far  as  Montreal.  Its 
chief  affluents  are  the  Saguenay,  east- 
ward, and  the  Ottawa  on  the  west.  The 
■width  of  the  St.  Lawrence  varies  from 
about  a  mile  to  four  miles ;  at  its  mouth 
it  is  100  miles  across.  It  abounds  in 
beautiful  islands,  of  which  there  is  a  vast 
group,  near  its  egress  from  Lake  Ontario, 
known  and  admired  by  all  the  world  as 
the  "  Thousand  Isles." 

TIftc  l^'JioiisaEil  Isles. — It  is 
always  a  curious  speculation  to  the  voy- 
ager how  his  steamer  is  to  find  its  w'uy 
through  the  labyrinth  of  the  Thousand 
Islands,  which  stud  the  broad  waters  like 
the  countless  tents  of  an  encamped  army, 
and  ever  and  anon  his  interest  is  aroused 
to  the  highest  pitch  at  the  prospective 
danger  of  the  passage  of  some  angry 
rapid.  All  the  Journey  cast,  from  lake  to 
lake  of  the  great  waters,  past  islands  now 
miles  in  circuit,  and  now  large  enough 
only  for  the  cottage  of  Liliputian  lovers, 
is  replete  with  ever-changing  pka.'^ure. 

!L<  a.  c  ]>  i  II  c  .  — From  Montreal  the 

traveller  will  proceed  9  miles  to  Lachine 

by  lailway,  avoiding  the  rapids  which  the 

Steamers  sometimes  descend.     The  latter 

440 


is  termed  "  shooting  the  rapids ; "  and 
"it  is  one  of  the  sublime  experiences 
which  can  never  be  forgotten,  and  never 
adequately  described.  It  is  in  the  high- 
est degree  creditable  to  all  connected 
"with  this  branch  of  Canadian  river  navi- 
gation, that  no  accident  of  any  conse- 
quence has  ever  happened,  nor  has  a 
single  life  been  lost  in  this  beautiful  but 
dangerous  spot." 

"And  we  have  passed  the  terrible  Lachine, 

Have  felt  a  fearless  tremor  through  the  soul, 
As  the  huge  waves  upreared  their  crests  of  green, 

Holding  our  feathery  bark  in  their  control, 

As  a  strong  eagle  holds  an  oriole. 
The  brain  grows  dizzj'  with  the  -whirl  and  hiss 

Of  the  fast-crowding  billows  as  they  roll, 
Like  struggling  demons  to  the  vexed  abyss, 
Lashing  thie  tortured  crags  with  wild,  demoniac 
bliss." 

Two  miles  above  Lachine,  on  the  Isle 
Dorval,  was  formerly  the  residence  of  Sir 
George  Simpson,  Governor  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,  and  of  the  officers  of 
this,  the  chief  post  of  that  corporation. 
It  was  from  this  point  that  the  orders 
from  headquarters  in  London  were  sent 
to  the  numerous  posts  throughout  the  vast 
territory  of  the  company  ;  and  near  the 
end  of  April  each  year  a  body  of  trained 
voyar/eurs  set  out  hence  in  large  canoes, 
called  niaitres  canofx,  with  packages  and 
goods  for  the  various  posts  in  the  wilder- 
ness. Two  centuries  ago,  the  companions 
of  the  explorer  Cartier,  on  arriving  here, 
thou'iht  thev  had  discovered  a  route  to 
China,  and  expressed  their  joy  in  the 
exclamation  of  "  La  Chine!  "  Hence  the 
present  name,  or  so  at  least  says  tradi- 
tion. A  costly  canal  overcomes  the  ob- 
struction of  the  rapids  at  Lachine. 

Tlio  Tillage  of  llie  ISapicls  ; 
oi*,  CaugliiiaT*  aga,  —  An  Iro- 
quois settlement  lies  opposite  Lachine,  at 
the  outlet  of  the  expansion  of  the  river 
called  Lake  St.  Louis.  The  Indians  at 
Caughiiawaga  subsist  chiefly  by  naviga- 
ting barges  and  rafts  down  to  Montreal, 
and  in  winter,  by  a  trade  in  moccasins, 
snow-shoos,  etc.  They  are  mostly  Ro- 
man Catholics,  and  possess  an  elegant 
church. 

Italic  St.  B^oiiis. — The  brown 
floods  of  the  Ottawa  assist  in  forming  this 
great  expanse  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  They 
roll  unmixed  through  the  clearer  water  of 
the  great  river.  On  the  noithern  shore 
of  Lake  St.  Louis  is  the  island  of  Mon- 


Ottawa  City.] 


CANADA. 


[RiDEAu  Falls. 


treal,  30  miles  long.  At  the  western 
extremit}''  is  lale  Ferrot,  The  Cascade 
Rapids  separate  the  expanse  just  passed 
from  Lake  St.  Francis.  The  Bcauharnois 
Canal  here  is  11^  miles  in  length,  and 
has  9  locks. 

S^iifiie  St.  Francis,  into  which 
the  voyager  now  eaters,  extends  40  miles. 
Midway  on  the  right  is  the  village  of 
Lancaster,  where  a  pile  of  stones  or  cairn 
has  been  thrown  up  in  honor  of  Sir  John 
Colborne,  formerly  Governor-General  of 
Canada,  now  Lord  Seaton.  Leaving 
Lake  St.  Francis,  we  pass  the  passage  of 
the  celebrated  Long  Sault  rapids.  Here, 
too,  is  the  Coniwall  Canal,  11-^  miles  in 
length,  with  V  locks  of  noble  size. 

Co3"ii>vJ8ili  is  a  pleasant  town,  for- 
merly called  "rointcMaline,"  in  memento 
of  the  labor  of  ascending  the  river  at  this 
point. 

T'lae  TiiSag'e  ol'  St.  Meg-fs 
lies  across  from  Cornwall.  It  forms  the 
boundary  between  Canada  and  the  State 
of  New  York,  and  also  intersects  the 
tract  of  land  occupied  by  the  1,000 
Iroquois,  American  and  British,  who 
dwell  here. 

miclieiasoM  Ijjaiacliicg*  is  at  the 
head  of  the  Cornwall  Canal ;  within  the 
space  of  the  38  miles  which  follow  to 
Prescott,  the  villages  of  Moulinette, 
Maria  Town,  and  Matilda,  are  successive- 
ly passed. 

Tlie  MsattleoFicld  of  Clai-yo 
seler's  S^sarssi^  where  the  Amei'icans 
met  a  defeat  in  the  war  of  1812,  lies  a 
little  above  Maria  Town. 

l®resc©tt  is  rapidly  recovering  its 
prestige,  lost  when  the  construction  of  the 
Eideau  Canal  won  its  trade  away  to 
Kingston ;  for  now  a  railway  from  New 
York  approaches  it  at  Ogdensburg,  and 
another  connects  it  with  Ottawa  City,  on 
the  Ottawa  Eiyer.  Besides  which  ad- 
vantages, it  is  on  the  line  of  the  Grand. 
Trunk  route.  From  Prescott  may  be 
seen  the  windmill  and  the  ruined  houses, 
mementoes  of  the  attempt  at  invasion  by 
Schultz  and  his  band  in  1838.  We  shall 
now  take  a  trip,  on  the  Ottawa  and  Pres- 
cott Railwaii,  to  Ottawa. 

©tta^vsi,  the  capital  of  Canada, 
stands  on  the  river  of  the  same  name,  54 
miles  distant  from  Prescott,  and  126  from 
Montreal.      This    prosperous    little   city. 


which  was  originally  called  Bytown,  in 
honor  of  Colonel  By,  of  the  lloyal  Engin- 
eers, under  whose  command  it  was  laid  out 
in  1823,  is  divided  into  Lower  Town,  Cen- 
tral Town,  and  Upper  Town.  On  Barrack 
Uill,  in  many  respects  a  counterpart  of 
the  citadel  of  Quebec,  are  situated  the 
Parliament  and  departmental  buildings. 
These  are  all  in  the  Italian-Gothic  style, 
and  are  built  of  a  kind  of  stone  found  in 
the  vicinity.  There  is  connected  with 
the  legislative  halls  a  library  capable  of 
containing  300,000  volumes.  Among  the 
other  principal  pubhc  edifices  may  be  men- 
tioned the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  one 
of  the  handsomest  in  Canada  ;  the  Queen's 
Printing-House,  and  numerous  other  build- 
ings contributing  to  the  stable  appear- 
ance of  the  city.  Ottawa  is  connected 
with  Lake  Ontario  by  the  Rideau  Canal, 
the  entrance  being  at  Kingston,  95  miles 
distant.  It  is  the  emporium  of  the  Cana- 
dian staple,  lumber. 

T'lie  Itideati  l^ails,  near  the 
month  of  the  Rideau,  just  below  the  city 
of  Ottav.'a,  is  a  charming  scene.  A  mile 
lower  it  receives,  from  the  north,  its 
greatest  tributary,  the  Gatineau,  which, 
with  a  course  probably  of  420  miles, 
drains  an  area  of  12,000  square  miles. 
For  about  200  miles  the  upper  course  of 
this  river  is  in  the  unknown  northern 
country.  At  the  farthest  point  surveyed, 
21*7  miles  from  its  mouth,  the  Gatineau 
is  still  a  noble  stream,  a  thousand  feet 
wide,  diminished  in  depth  but  not  in 
v\'idth.  Eighteen  miles  lower  down,  the 
Riviere  an.  Lievre  enters  from  the  north, 
after  running  a  course  of  260  miles  in 
length,  and  draining  an  area  of  4,100 
miles.  Fifteen  miles  below  it,  the  Ottawa 
receives  the  North  and  South  Nation 
Rivers  on  either  side,  the  former  95  and 
the  latter  100  miles  in  length.  Twen- 
ty-two miles  farther,  the  River  Rouge, 
90  miles  long,  enters  from  the  north. 
Twenty-one  miles  lower,  the  lUviure 
du  Nord,  160  miles  in  length,  comes  in 
on  the  same  side  ;  and,  lastly,  just  above 
its  mouth,  it  receives  the  River  Assump- 
tion, which  has  a  course  of  130  miles. 
From  Ottawa  the  river  is  navigable  to 
Grenville,  a  distance  of  58  miles,  where 
the  rapids  that  occur  for  12  miles  are 
avoided  by  a  succession  of  canals.  Twen- 
ty-three miles  lower,  at  one  of  the  mouths 

441 


Kingston.] 


CANADA. 


[Oswego. 


of  the  Ottawa,  a  single  lock,  to  avoid  a 
flight  rapid,  gives  a  passage  into  Lake  St. 
Louis,  au  expansion  of  the  St.  Lavticnce 
above  Monti-eal.  The  remaining  half  of 
the  Ottawa's  waters  find  their  way  to  the 
St,  Lawrence  by  passing  in  two  channels, 
behind  the  Island  of  Montreal  and  the 
Isle  of  Jesus,  in  a  course  of  81  miles. 
They  are  interrupted  with  rapids ;  still 
it  is  by  one  of  them  that  all  the  Ottawa 
lumber  passes  to  market.  At  I^out  de 
I'Isle,  therefore,  the  Ottawa  is  finally 
merged  in  the  St.  Lawrence,  130  njiles 
below,  from  the  city  of  Ottawa. 

IIOUTESFROM  MONTREAL  UP  THE  OTTAWA. 

— Steamers  run  daily,  during  the  summer 
months,  between  Montreal  and  Ottawa, 
and  Kingston  and  Ottawa,  via  the  Rideau 
Canal.  Above  Ottawa  the  traveller  may 
proceed,  by  carriage  or  by  stage,  nine 
miles,  to  the  village  of  xVylmer,  and  thence 
by  steamer  to  the  Chats  ;  thence  by  rail- 
way, two  miles  ;  then  again  by  steamer 
to  the  Fortasfe  du  Fort :  now,  wagons  for 
a  while,  and  then  again  a  steamer  to  Pem- 
broke, and  yet  another  from  thence  to 
Deux  Joachims  ;  afterward  he  must  canoe 
it.  The  Ottawa  may  also  be  reached  by 
railway  direct,  from  Prescott  on  the  St. 
Lawi-ence  to  Ottawa  City. 

Og'des£gl>Ma*g*,  New  York,  the 
Vt'esteru  terminus  of  the  Kortliern  Rail- 
%oay  from  Lake  Champlain,  is  opposite 
Prescott. 

MititlRsitl,  built  upon  the  site  of 
an  old  Preneli  fort,  is  seven  miles  above 
Prescott. 

ISroc'liviSle  is  yet  5  miles  more, 
westward.  It  is  one  of  the  best-built 
towns  in  Canada  West. 

Cnaia:e£io<iiic  is  32  miles  above 
Brockville.  At  Kingston,  20  miles  yet 
beyond  Gananoque,  we  leave  the  St.  Law- 
rence, and  approacli  the  waters  of  Lake 
Ontario.  In  descending  the  river,  the 
wonderful  labyrinth  of  the  Thousand  Isles 
is  passed  just  cast  of  Kingston.  Wolfe's 
Island^  a  well-cultivated  spot,  is  opposite 
Kingston. 

liLiEag-!^^OBl. — IIotei.s,  KcnCa  Brit- 
ish Aiuciicari^  Jroris  Hotel. 

The  city  of  Kingston,  the  original  capi- 
tal of  Canada,  modern  as  it  appeals, 
looks  far  back  for  its  history,  as  its  ad- 
vantageous locale  did  not  fail  to  attract 
the  notice  of  the  early  French  discoverers. 
442 


It  was  once  occupied  as  a  small  fort 
called  Cataraqui^  otherwise  known  as 
Frontenac,  in  honor  of  the  French  count 
of  that  name,  and  was  the  scene  of  va- 
rious sieges  and  exploits  before  it  passed, 
with  all  the  territory  of  the  Canadas, 
from  French  to  British  rule.  It  was  from 
this  point  that  murderous  expeditions 
were  made  by  the  Indians  in  the  olden 
times  against  Albany  and  other  English 
settlements  of  New  York  ;  which  in  turn 
sent  back  here  its  retributive  blows.  The 
present  city  was  founded  in  1783.  It 
has  now  a  population  of  about  1G,000. 

As  a  military  station,  it  is  only  second 
to  Quebec.  Among  its  objects  of  inter- 
est are  the  fortifications  of  Fort  Henry., 
on  a  hill  upon  the  eastern  side  of  the 
harbor;  four  fine  Martello  Towers  off 
the  town  ;  and  other  defensive  works ; 
the  U'liivcrsity  of  Queen- s  College;  the 
Boinan  Catholic  College  of  JRcyiopolis, 
and  the  Provincial  Bcnitentiary,  a  mile 
to  the  west  of  the  city. 

As  the  navigation  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
ends  at  Kingston,  the  river  boats  are  ex- 
changed here  for  others  more  suited  to 
the  lake  voyages. 

1j  ji  Ic  c  O  3a  t  a  1*  i  o, — American 
Shore. — Let  us,  before  we  enter  the  great 
waters  of  Ontario,  say  a  word  to  the 
traveller  who  may  prefer  to  make  the 
voyage  along  the  American  or  lower 
shore  of  the  lake.  From  the  boundary 
line  45°  the  entire  l-ttoral  is  in  the  State 
of  New  York. 

Freiicli  Creek  comes  into  the 
St.  Lawrence  as  we  leave  it.  It  was  here 
that  General  Wilkinson  embarked  (No- 
vember, 1818),  with  7,000  men,  with  the 
purpose  of  descending  the  river  and  at- 
tacking Montreal.  A  week  subsequently, 
an  engagement  took  place  near  Williams- 
burg, on  the  Canadian  side,  when  the 
Americans  came  off  but  poorly.  General 
Wilkinson  being  disappointed  in  his  ex- 
pectation of  reenforcomcnts  from  Platts- 
buig,  retired  to  French  Mills,  and  there 
went  into  winter  quarters.  This  place 
was  afterward  named  Fort  Covington,  in 
memory  of  General  Covington,  who  fell 
at  the  battle  of  Williamsburg. 

Saeliett's  Mai-bor,  (N.  Y.)— 
(See  New  Yoi;k  State.) 

Os^vcg-Oo — Hotel,  TJie  American. 
— Oswego  (N.  Y.)  is  the  chief  commercial 


Toronto.] 


CANADA. 


[Hamilton. 


port  of  the  American  shore  of  Ontario. 
It  is  very  agreeably  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Oswego  lUver.  The  Oswego  Canal 
comes  iu  here  (38  miles)  from  Syracuse, 
and  the  railway,  also  from  the  same 
place. 

Claai'lottc^  the  port  of  the  city  of 
liochester  (N.  Y.),  is  at  the  approach  to 
Lake  Ontario,  of  the  beautiful  Genesee 
Kiver. — (See  New  York  State.) 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Genesee  to  Fort 
Niagara,  a  distance  of  85  miles,  the  coast 
now  presents  a  monotonous  and  forest- 
covered  level,  with  clearing  only  here  and 
there. 

Having  now  peeped  at  the  American, 
or  southern  shore,  we  will  go  back  to 
Kingston,  and  start  again  on  the  upper 
side'of  the  lake,  making  first  for  Toronto, 
1G5  miles  distant ;  from  Montreal,  333 
miles. 

CoI>Mrg'^  with  a  population  of  about 
5,000,  is  VO  miles  from  Toronto,  and  90 
miles  from  Kingston.  It  has  many  and 
varied  manufactories  ;  and  owing  to  its 
comparative  proximity  to  Kochester,  it 
ranks  only  second  to  Toronto  and  Hamil- 
ton in  point  of  general  business.  A  rail- 
way from  Peterboro'  (30  miles  distant) 
comes  in  here.  In  the  vicinage  is  the 
Victoria  College^  founded  by  act  of  the 
Provincial  Legislature  in  1842,  and  at- 
tended by  150  students.  There  is  a  jail 
here,  a  strong,  massive,  and  imposing 
structure. 

l®©2't  Hope  is  seven  miles  above 
Coburg.  From  this  point,  or  from  Co- 
burg,  the  journey  to  Kingston  is  often 
charmingly  made  overland,  through  a 
beautiful  country  at  the  head  of  the  Bat/ 
of  Quinie,  a  singular  arm  of  the  St. 
Lawrence. 

I'oi'osj.t©.  —  Hotel,  Lamlj's.  To- 
ronto is  the  largest  and  most  populous 
city  in  Canada  West.  Some  eighty  years 
ago  the  site  of  the  present  busy  mart  v/as 
occupied  by  two  Indian  families  only. 
In  1793,  Governor  Simcoe  began  the  set- 
tlement under  the  name  of  York,  changed, 
when  it  was  incorporated,  in  1834,  to 
Toronto — meaning,  in  the  Indian  tongue, 
"  The  place  of  meeting."  One  of  the 
principal  thoroughfares,  Yonge  Street, 
extends,  through  a  flouri^•hing  agricultural 
district,  to  the  rare  length  (for  a  street) 
of  SO  miles.     The  population,  in   1817, 


numbered  only  1,200;  in  1850,  it  had 
reached  25,000  ;  and  now,  it  is  upward 
of  60,000. 

Among  the  public  buildings  of  Toronto, 
the  traveller  will  perhaps  please  himself 
with  a  ptep  at  the  Catholic  Church  of  St. 
Michael,  the  St.  James's  Cathedral  (Eng- 
lish), the  University  of  Toronto,  the  St. 
Lawrence  Hall  and  Market,  the  Parlia- 
ment House,  Osgoode  Hall,  the  Post- 
Oflice,  the  Court-House,  the  Exchange, 
the  Mechanics'  Institute,  Knox's  Church, 
Trinity  College,  Upper  Canada  College, 
the  Lunatic  Asylum,  the  Jail,  and  the 
Normal  and  Model  Scliools.  At  Toronto, 
the  traveller  may,  if  he  pleases,  reach 
Niagara  direct,  without  touching  at  Hamil- 
ton, as  we  propose  to  do  in  our  present 
journey. 

IS  a  IM.  i  1 1  <»  Bi  .  —  Hotels,  AvgJo- 
Americau  and  the  CV'y  Hotel. 

Hamilton  is  among  the  most  beautiful 
and  most  prosperous  cities  of  Canada. 
Many  advantages  promise  it  a  brave  future. 
From  its  zeal  and  eagerness  flt  has  been 
named  the  "  ambitious  little  city."  Its 
streets     are     wide     and     well-laid    out. 


and   its    buildings    are    in 


general   ele- 


gant ;  they  are  built  for  the  most  part 
of  white  stone,  an  ample  supply  of  which 
is  found  near  the  city.  Tlie  Post-Office 
is  on  James  Street ;  and  the  principal 
banks  and  business  houses  are  situated 
on  that  street  and  King  Street.  It  was 
laid  out  and  settled  in  1813,  by  a  person 
of  the  name  of  Hamilton;  it  is  situated 
on  Burlington  Bay,  at  the  head  of  the 
westei'n  extremity  of  Lake  Ontario,  con- 
nected with  the  Eastern  cajltals  of  the 
United  States,  and  with  Quebec,  Montreal, 
and  Toronto  by  the  Grand  Trunk  and 
the  Hamilton  and  Toronto  Hailuays ; 
and  with  Lake  Huron  and  the  Mississippi 
States  by  the  Greed  Weaiern  Raihoay^ 
which  traverses  the  garden  lands  of 
Canada;  and,  ?'?«  the  Suspension  Bridge 
at  Niagara,  with  the  whole  railway  system 
of  New  York.  The  distance  from  To- 
ronto to  Hamilton,  by  the  steamer  is  45 
miles — time,  two  and  a  half  hours;  by 
railway,  38  miles — time  (express),  1  hour 
24  minutes.  The  population  of  Hamilton, 
in  1845,  was  6,500 ;  at  this  time  it  ex- 
ceeds 25,000. 

Fi'OEii  M  a  3ia  i  1 1  o  11    t^   tite 
l^sslls, — Distance,  by  the   Great  }Vest- 

443 


Lake  Region.] 


CANADA. 


[Lake  Region. 


em  liailway,  from  Ilamilton  to  tlie  Sus- 
pension Bridge,  43  miles — time,  1  hour, 
35  minutes.  Stations,  Ontario,  Grimsby, 
Beamsville,  Jordan,  St.  Catharine's,  Tho- 
rold,  Nia,£;ara  Falls. 

St.  Catlaai'lsic's  is  the  chief 
point  of  interest  on  this  part  of  our  route. 
Its  pleasant  topography,  and,  more  par- 
ticularly, its  mineral  S2)7'inffs,  make  it 
a  place  of  great  summer  resort.  Here 
we  leave  the  reader  to  establish  himself 
at  Niagara,  and  to  see  all  its  marvels, 
having  elsewhere  pointed  out  where  he 
should  go,  and  what  should  be  his 
iiimraire  while  there.  (See  Niagara 
Falls,  New  York.) 


TEE   LAKE  BEG20K 

A  delightful  tour  of  a  few  weeks  may  be 
made,  in  the  heat  of  the  summer,  among 
the  natural  wonders  of  the  region  of  the 
Great  Lakes,  to  Muckinac,  the  Sault  Sle. 
Marie,  and  the  shores  of  Lake  Superior, 
returning,  perhaps,  by  some  one  of  the 
lower  routes  to  the  Atlantic,  from  the 
head-waters  of  the  Mississip|i. 

Routes. — The  leading  route  through 
Canada  is  from  Toronto,  which  may  be 
easily  and  speedily  reached  by  routes  al- 
ready described.  From  New  York,  by  the 
Hudson  River  and  Lake  Champlain  to 
Montreal,  and  thence  by  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway;  or  by  the  Central  Road  from 
Albany  to  Buffalo,  and  by  Niagara ;  or,  by 
Niagara,  via  the  NeivYork  ajid  Erie  Rail- 
vxuj ;  or,  i'rom  Portland  or  Boston,  by 
railroad  to  Montreal,  etc.  By  steamboat 
daily,  from  Buffalo,  or  from  Chicago,  etc., 
to  Mackinac  (or  Mackinaw,  as  the  word 
is  pronounced). 

At  Toronto,  the  traveller  will  take  the 
Collingwood  route,  by  the  Ontario^  JSim- 
coe,  and  Huron  Railway,  94  miles,  to 
Collingwood,  at  the  head  of  the  Georgian 
Bay  or  Manitoulin  Lake,  the  northeast 
part  of  Lake  Huron.  Huron  is  the  third 
in  size  of  the  five  great  inland  seas,  which 
pour  their  floods  into  the  St.  Lawrence. 
It  lies  between  43°  and  46°  15'  north 
latitude,  having  the  State  of  Michigan  on 
the  south-southwest,  and  Canada  West 
upon  all  other  points,  excepting  where 
the  Straits  of  Mackinac  and  the  Falls, 
or  Sault  Ste.  Marie  enter  it  from  Lakes 
444 


Michigan  and  Superior,  and  at  its  outlet 
in  the  St.  Clair  River.  It  is  divided  by 
the  peninsula  of  Cabot's  head,  and  the 
Manitoulin  Islands,  the  upper  portions 
being  the  north  channel  and  the  Georgian 
Bay,  which  we  reach  at  Collingwood. 
The  length  of  Lake  Huron,  following  its 
crescent  shape,  is  about  280  miles,  and 
its  greatest  breadth,  not  including  the 
Georgian  Bay,  is  105  miles;  its  average 
width  is  '70  miles.  Lake  Huron  is  352 
feet  above  Lake  Ontario,  and  600  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  depth  is 
1,000  feet — greater  than  that  of  any 
other  in  the  grand  chain  of  which  it  is  a 
link.  Off  Saginaw,  leads,  it  is  said,  have 
been  dropped  to  a  depth  of  1,800  feet, 
which  is  1,200  feet  below  the  level  of 
the  Atlantic,  and  yet  without  finding 
bottom.  The  waters  here  are  so  pure 
and  clear  that  objects  may  be  distinctly 
seen  from  50  to  100  feet  below  the  sur- 
face. In  these  notable  waters  there  are 
said  to  be  more  than  three  thousand 
islands. 

From  Collingwood,  the  route  is  by 
suitable  steamers  to  Mackinac,  or  the 
Straits  of  Mackinac,  which  are  the  con- 
necting links  between  Lake  Michigan 
and  Lake  Huron.  The  Island  of  Macki- 
nac has  a  circumference  of  about  nine 
miles,  and  its  shores  and  vicinage  are 
picturesque  and  romantic  in  the  highest 
degree.  The  Arched  Rock,  facing  the 
water,  and  rising  to  the  elevation  of  some 
200  feet,  makes  a  bold  and  striking  pic- 
ture from  all  points  on  the  lake,  and 
especially  as  you  look  through  its  rude 
arches  from  the  summit.  Robinson's 
Folly  is  an  attractive  bluff  on  the  north 
shore.  Years  ago  a  Mr.  Robinson,  after 
whom  the  bluff  is  named,  erected  a  sum- 
mer-house upon  its  crest.  Here  he  passed 
his  days,  and  oftentimes  his  nights,  de- 
spite the  cautions  of  the  people  about 
him,  until,  in  an  unlucky  tempest,  he 
and  his  aerie  nest  were  swept  away  to- 
gether. 

TL'Ise  Cave  of  Siifills  is  upon 
the  western  shore  of  the  island.  Once 
upon  a  time,  it  is  said,  a  party  of  Sioux 
Indians  were  pursued  hither  by  the 
Ottawas,  who  imprisoned  and  destroyed 
their  foes  in  this  cavern,  by  building  fires 
at  its  mouth.  Eence  the  name  of  the 
cave.      The   traveller,    Henry,    was   one 


Sault  Ste.  Maeie.] 


CANADA. 


[Lake  Superior. 


night  secreted  here  by  a  friendly  Indian, 
when,  to  his  surprise  and  horror,  the 
morning  light  sliowed  that  he  had  been 
sleeping  soundly  among  a  bed  of  human 
bones  ! 

The  Needles,  another  natural  wonder 
of  Mackinac,  is  a  bold  rock,  in  form  not 
unlike  a  liiz-ht-house.  This  elevation 
commands  a  panorama  of  the  entire 
islan  1,  and  a  fine  view  of  the  crumbling 
and  weed-covered  ruins  of  Fort  Holmes. 
Days  of  delight  may  be  passed  amidst 
the  natural  beauties  of  land  and  water  at 
Mackinac,  made  doubly  picturesque  by 
the  wild  frontier  life  yet  found  here,  and 
mingled,  too,  with  the  still  existing  homes 
and  presence  of  the  red  men.  Fort 
MacJcinac  stands  upon  a  rocky  height, 
150  feet  above  the  village,  which  it  over- 
looks. An  agency  for  Indian  affairs  is 
established  here,  which  is,  from  time  to 
time,  the  resort  of  deputations  and  bands 
of  the  wild  dwellers  of  the  surrounding 
wilderness.  Immense  quantities  of  fish 
are  sent  from  Mackinac.  Steamboats 
from  Detroit,  Chicago,  and  other  places, 
stop  here  continually. 

^aitit  Ste.  Marie. — Passing  on 
toward  Lake  Superior,  a  voyage  of  eight 
pleasant  hours,  in  a  steamer,  will  bring  us 
to  the  famous  Falls  of  St.  Mai-y,  in  the 
Strait  of  St.  Mary,  which  connects  the 
waters  of  Lake  Superior  and  Lake  Huron, 
and  separates  Canada  West  from  the 
upper  part  of  Michigan.  The  strait  ex- 
tends G3  miles  from  the  southeast  ex- 
tremity of  Lake  Superior  until  it  reaches 
Lake  Huron.  Its  course  is  sometimes 
narrow,  and  broken  into  angry  rapids  ; 
again,  it  widens  into  beautiful  lakelets, 
and  winds  amid  enchanting  islands.  It 
is  navigable  for  vessels  drawing  eisiht 
feet  of  water,  up  to  within  a  mile  of  Lake 
Saperior,  where  the  passage  is  interrupt- 


ed by  the 


great 


^ Sault"  or  Falls.     Tb; 


Sault  is  a  series  of  turbulent  rapids,  with 
a  total  descent  of  22  feet  in  the  course 
of  three-qu  irters  of  a  mile.  The  passage 
of  these  falls,  or  the  "  running  the  rapids," 
as  it  is  called,  is  most  exhilarating  sport. 
The  rapids  are  broken  up  into  several 
different  channels,  and  among  them  are 
scattered  little  islands,  such  as  you  see  at 
Niagara,  and,  like  them,  bristling  with 
cedars  in  all  possible  attitudes.  At  this 
pomt,  on  the  American  side,  is  the  little 


village  of  the  Sault— an  old  settlement  in 
the  State  of  Michigan,  founded   by  tiic 
Jesuits  about  two  centuries  ago.      It  has 
evidently  seen  and   felt  nothing  of  the 
great  progress  which  has  been  building 
up  cities  and  States.     Here  is  to  be  seen 
the  native  owner  of  the  soil  and  the  half- 
breed  (a  cross  of  the  French  and  Indian 
blood),  and  many  other  objects  of  inter- 
est.     These  rapids  are  not  unlike  those 
of   Niagara,    excepting   that,  instead  of 
ending  upon  the  brink  of  a  terrible  preci- 
pice,  they  decline  with  the  steady  flow 
of  a  wide  river,  and  steamers  and  canoes 
may  fearlessly  enter  them.     They  run  in 
different   channels,    everywdiere    dodging 
the  numerous  little  cedar-covered  islands 
in  their  way.     The  Sault  yields  abundant 
supplies  of  finny  inhabitants ;  for  the  ex- 
cellence of  its  white  fish  it  is  particularly 
renowned.     Upon  the  British  side  of  the 
river  there  is  an  ancient-looking  establish- 
ment, occupied  as  an  agency  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company.     The  St.  Mary's  Ship 
Canal,  a  noble  v.'ork,  now  overcomes  the 
obstruction  made  by  these  rapids  in  the 
passage  from  Lake  Huron  to  Lake  Su- 
perior ;  the  locks  in  this  massive  canal  are, 
perhaps,  the  largest  in  the  world.     Here- 
tofore,  merchandise  from    Chicago,   De- 
troit, Buffalo,  and  other   places,  had   to 
be  discharged  and  conveyed  over  a  rail- 
road to  the  upper  end  of  the  Sault,  and 
then  hauled  down  to  the   water-side   at 
the  opposite  extremity.      The  Chippewa 
Hotel  is  a  good  house  on  the  American 
side  of  the  rapids  ;  and  Pine's  Hotel  is  a 
well-kept   establishment   on  the  British 
shore.     Steamers  leave  the  Sault,  daily, 
for  all  places  on  Lake  Superior  and  the 
neighboring  waters. 

S-iSilce  Superior. — We  enter  Lake 
Superior  after  the  passage  of  the  Sault 
Ste.  Marie,  between  two  bold  promonto- 
ries, rising  to  the  height  of  200  to  300 
feet,  called  Cape  Gro  and  Cape  Iroquois. 
This  grand  inland  sea  is  the  largest  body 
of  fresh  water  on  the  globe.  Its  greatest 
length  is  420  miles,  its  extreme  breadth 
is  160  miles,  and  its  circuit,  1,'750  miles. 
On  its  west  and  northwest  shore  is  Minne- 
sota, on  the  southern  border  are  Wisconsin 
and  Michigan,  while  British  America  lies 
on  all  other  sides.  The  waters,  which 
aVe  wonderfully  transparent,  come,  by 
more   than  200  streams,  from  a  basin 

445 


Lake  Superior.] 


CANADA. 


[Quebec. 


covei-hig  an  area  of  100,000  square  miles. 
The  north,  and  south,  and  western  parts 
are  full  of  islands,  while  in  the  central 
portions  of  the   lake   there   are   few  or 
none.     In   the   north,  these   islands  are 
many  of  them  large  enough  to  afford  am- 
ple shelter  for  vessels.     The  picturesque 
resjions  of  the  lake  are  alon<r  the  northern 
shore.     In  this  direction  the  scenery  is 
of  a   very   bold  and  striking  character. 
For  many  miles  here  there  are  continuous 
raniics  of  cliffs,  which  reach  sometimes 
ail  elevation  of  1,500  feet ;  on  the  south 
the   banks  are   low   and    sandy,   except 
where   they   are   broken   by    occasional 
limestone  ridges.     These  ridges  rise  near 
the  eastern  extremity,  upon  this  side  300 
feet,  in  unique  and  surprising  perpendicu- 
lar walls  and  cliffs,  broken  into  the  oddest 
forms,  indented  with  grotesque  caverns, 
and  jutting  out  into  ghostly  headlands. 
It  is  these  strange  formations  which  are 
famous  under  the  name  of  the  "  Pictured 
Eocks."     This  range  is  on   the   east  of 
Point  Keweenaw.     The  rocks  have  been 
colored  by  continual  mineral  drippings. 
A  similar  rocky  group  lies  to  the  west  of 
the  Apostle  Islands.     It  is  some  hundred 
feet  high,  and  is  broken  by  numberless 
arches  and  caves  of  the  most  picturesque 
cliaracter.     On  the  summit  of  these  bluffs 
there  is  everywhere  a  stunted  growth   of 
Alpine  trees.     The  Porcupine  Mountains, 
upon  the  southern  shore  of  the  lake,  ap- 
pear, says  a  voyager,  to  be  about  as  ex- 
tensive (though  not  so  lofiy)  as  the  Cat- 
skills.     Of  the  islands  of  Lake  Superior, 
the  largest,  v.diich  is  some  40  miles  in 
length,  and  from  seven  to  ten  broad,  is 
called  Royal  Isle.     Its  hills  rise  to  the 
altitude  of  400  feet,  with  fine  bold  shores 
on  the  north,  and  many  fine  bays  on  the 
south.     It  i.-^,  like  all  this  region,  a  famous 
fishing-ground.      Near    the   western   ex- 

CD    O 

tremity  of  the  lake,  there  is  a  group 
known  as  Apostle  Islands.  They  form  a 
trio  of  forest-covered  heights,  adding 
greatly  to  the  beauty  of  the  landscape 
around  ;  on  the  extreme  end  of  the  largest, 
is  tlie  trading-post  called  La  Po'Diic,  in- 
habited by  Indians  and  white  adventurers. 
It  is  a  great  place  of  annual  rendezvous 
for  the  red  man  and  the  trader,  and  a 
starting-point  for  tramps  to  the  regions 
of  the  Mississippi.  The  shores  of  Lake 
Superior  have  long  been  extensively  ex- 
416 


plored  for  their  abundant  copper  wealth  ; 
and  mines  have  been  opened  at  all  points. 
Fond  du  Lac  (Superior  City)  is  in  Minne- 
sota, on  the  Saint  Louis  Kiver,  22  miles 
from  its  entrance  into  Lake  Superior.  It 
is  accessible  by  steamboat ;  and  its  won- 
derfully wild  and  romantic  hills,  and 
rocks,  and  glens,  are  well  worth  a  visit 
from  the  tourist  of  the  Great  Lake?.— 
(For  continuation  of  this  route,  see  chap- 
ters on  Minnesota,  Michigan,  Wiscon- 
sin, etc.) 

Having  now  visited  the  great  Lake 
Region,  the  tourist  can  return  by  steamer 
either  to  Colhngwood,  Goderich,  or  Sarnia, 
thence  by  rail  to  Toronto,  and  from  the 
latter  city  by  steamer  down  Lake  Ontario 
and  the  St.  Lawrence  River  to  Quebec. 


aTJSBEC. 


Hotels. — The 


leading 


hotels  are  the 
St.  Louis  and  RiisseWs;  they  are  the 
largest  and  most  central  and  are  moderate 
in  their  terms. 

Quebec  may  be  pleasantly  reached 
from  New  York,  via  Boston  to  Portland, 
Maine,  and  thence  317  miles  by  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway^  total  distance,  by 
this  route,  from  New  York  to  Quebec, 
650  miles ;  or  from  New  York  by  the 
Hudson  River  Railway  or  steamboats ;  or 
by  the  Harlem  Railway  to  Albany,  thence 
to  Whitehall,  thence  on  Lake  Champlain 
to  Plattsburg,  thence  by  the  Montreal 
and  New  York  Railway  to  Montreal,  and 
from  Montreal  by  steamer  down  the  St. 
Lawrence,  or  by  the  Grand  Irunk  Rail- 
loay.  Distance  by  railway,  from  Montre- 
al to  Quebec,  103  miles.  There  are  other 
railway  routes  from  Loston  to  Quebec, 
via  Albany,  or  by  the  Vermont  Central 
and  Vermont  and  Canada  lines  through 
St.  Albans  to  Montreal. 

Quebec  is  the  oldest,  and,  after  5Ion- 
trcal,  the  most  populous  city  in  British 
North  America.  It  is  upon  the  left  bank 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  river,  and  some  £40 
miles  from  the  ocean. 

The  city  was  founded  in  1608,  by  the 
geographer  Cham})lain.  It  fell  into  the 
possession  of  the  British  in  1029,  but 
was  restored  three  years  later.  Tiie 
English  made  an  unsuccessful  attempt  to 
regain  possession  of  it  in  1690.     It  v,as 


Quebec] 


CANADA. 


[Vicinity. 


finally  captured  by  Wolfe,  in  1759,  after 
au  heroic  defence  by  Montcalm, 

The  city  is  divided  into  the  Upper  and 
Lower  Tovrn  ;  the  ascent  from  the  latter 
being  by  a  very  steep  and  winding  street, 
through  Prescott  Gate.  The  Upper  Town 
occupies  the  highest  part  of  the  promon- 
tory, v/hieh  is  surrounded  by  strong  walls 
and  other  fortifications  ;  v»diile  the  Lower 
Town  is  built  around  the  base  of  Cape 
Diamond.  The  latter  is  the  business 
quarter. 

Tiie  Citadel^  a  massive  defence  crown- 
ing the  sununit  of  Cape  Diamond  (thus 
named  from  the  circumstance  of  quartz 
crystals,  sparkling  like  diamonds,  being 
found  in  the  dark-colored  slate  of  which 
the  cape  is  composed),  covers  about  40 
acres  with  its  numerous  buildings.  Its 
impregnable  position  makes  it  perhaps 
the  strongest  fortress  on  this  continent ; 
and  the  name  of  the  "  Gibraltar  of 
America  "  has  been  often  not  given  to  it 
inaptly.  The  access  to  the  Citadel  is 
from  the  Upper  Town,  the  walls  of 
which  are  entered  by  five  gates.  Near 
the  Palace  gate  is  the  Hospital  and  a 
large  Guard-House.  By  St.  Louis  gate, 
on  the  southwest,  the  tourist  will  reach 
the  memorable  Plains  of  Abraham,  the 
scene  of  Wolfe's  victory  and  death,  in 
the  year  1759,  The  Prescott  Gate  is  the 
only  entrance  on  the  St.  Lawrence  side 
of  the  fortress. 

The  view  from  the  Citadel  is  remarka- 
bly fine,  taking  iti,  as  it  does,  the  oppo- 
site banks  of  the  great  river  through 
many  picturesque  miles  up  and  down. 
The  promenade  here,  on  the  i^amparts 
above  the  esplanade,  is  charming.  In 
the  public  garden,  on  Des  Carrieres 
street,  there  is  an  obelisk  to  the  memory 
of  Wolfe  and  Montcalm.  At  the  foot  of 
the  Citadel  stands  a  tower,  over  which 
now  floats  the  British  flag,  on  the  spot 
where  Montgomery  and  his  soldiers  all 
fell,  swept  by  the  grape-shot  of  a  single 
gun  manned  by  a  Canadian  artillerist. 

The  ParUameRt  House. — Among  the 
chief  public  edifices  of  Quebec  is  the 
New  Parliament  House,  which  supplies 
the  place  of  the  building  destroj^ed  by 
fire  in  1854. 

The  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  was 
erected  under  the  auspices  of  the  first 
Bishop  of  Quebec,  and  was  consecrated 


in  166G.  It  is  21G  feet  long,  and  180 
feet  in  breadth.  There  is  in  the  Lov/cr 
Town  a  chapel  noticeable  for  its  anti- 
quity; it  was  built  and  used  as  a  church 
before  1690.  It  is  called  Notre  Dame 
dcs  Vidoires. 

The  Ursidine  Convent  and  the  Church 
of  St.  Ursula  are  striking  buildings, 
encompassed  by  pleasant  gardens.  This 
establishment  was  founded  in  1639,  and 
holds  a  high  position  in  the  public  esteem. 
It  accommodates  a  superior,  50  nuns,  and 
6  novices,  who  give  instruction  in  readhig, 
writing,  and  needlework.  The  building 
was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1 650,  and  again 
in  1686.  The  remains  of  the  Marquis  de 
Montcalm  are  buried  here  in  an  excava- 
tion made  by  the  bursting  of  a  shell 
within  the  precincts  of  the  convent. 

The  Artilleri/  Barracks  form  a  range 
of  stone  buildings  5,000  feet  in  length. 

Durham  Terrace  is  the  site  of  the 
old  castle  of  St.  Louis,  which  was  entire- 
ly consumed  by  fire  in  1834. 

The  English  Protestaiit  Cathedral^  con- 
secrated in  1804,  is  one  of  the  finest 
modern  edifices  of  the  city.  Tradition 
points  to  its  site  as  the  spot  upon  which 
Cham  plain  erected  his  first  tent. 

St.  Andrew's  Church,  in  St.  Anne 
Street,  is  in  connection  with  the  Scotch 
Establishment.  The  Methodists  have  a 
chapel  in  St.  Stanislaus  Street,  and 
another  in  St  Louis  suburb,  called  the 
Centenary  Chapel.  * 

27ie  Lower  Town. — It  is  in  this  por- 
tion of  the  city  that  the  traveller  will 
find  the  Exchange,  the  Post-Office,  the 
banks,  and  other  commercial  establish- 
ments. 

TSae  IPlaiiis  o£  Afei-aliam 
may  be  reached  via  the  St.  Louis  Gate, 
and  the  counterscarp  on  the  left,  leading 
to  the  glacis  of  the  citadel  hence  tow- 
ard the  right ;  appi'oaching  one  of  the 
Martello  Towers,  where  a  fine  view  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  opens.  A  little  be- 
yond, up  the  right  bank,  is  the  spot 
where  General  Wolfe  fell  on  the  famous 
historic  ground  of  the  Plains  of  Abra- 
ham. It  is  the  highest  ground,  and  is 
surrounded  by  wooden  fences.  Here 
stands  the  St.  Foye  monument,  erected 
to  the  memoiy  of  Wolfe  and  Montcalm. 
It  is  of  bronzed  metal,  standing  on  a 
stone  base,  and  surmounted  by  a  bronze 

447  ' 


MONTMORENCI.] 


CANADA. 


[CUAUDIERE. 


statue  of  Bellona.  On  tlic  pedestal  are 
simple  and  appropriate  inscriptions. 
Within  an  enclosure  lower  down  is  a 
stone  well,  from  which  water  was 
brought  to  the  dying  hero. 

"lYollc's  C^ove,  the  spot  whore 
Montgomery  was  killed,  and  other  scones, 
telling  tales  of  the  memorable  past,  will 
be  pointed  out  to  the  traveller  in  this 
neighborhood. 

'r'lae  Mom  Bit  Menaioii  Ceme- 
tci*y  is  about  3  miles  from  the  city,  on 
the  south  side  of  the  St.  Louis  road. 
The  grounds  are  32  acres  in  extent, 
sloping  irregularly  but  beautifully  down 
the  precipices  which  overhang  the  fSt. 
Lawrence.  They  were  laid  out  by  the 
late  Major  Douglas,  of  the  United  States 
Engineers,  who  had  previously  displayed 
his  skill  and  taste  in  the  arrangements 
of  the  Greenwood  Cemetery,  near  New 
York. 

Ejorette. — To  see  Lorette  may  be 
made  the  object  of  an  agreeable  excur- 
sion from  Quebec,  following  the  banks  of 
the  St.  Charles  River. 

l^silce  St.  Claarles  is  4  miles 
long  and  one  broad.  It  is  divided  by 
projecting  ledges  into  two  parts.  It  is  a 
delightful  spot  in  its  natural  attractions, 
and  m  the  fine  sport  it  affords  to  the 
angler. 

'l^Biel^alls  orMontBMorenci. 
Nine  miles  below  Quebec,  the  impetuous 
Montmorcnci  (so  called  after  a  French 
admiral  of  that  name),  after  fretting 
itself  a  whirlpool  route,  and  leaping  for 
miles  down  the  steps  of  a  rocky  bed, 
rushes  with  velocity  toward  the  lodge, 
over  which  it  falls  pouring  its  fleecy  cata- 
ract 250  feet  into  the  chasm  below.  The 
foam  rising  from  the  foot  of  the  falls  be- 
comes frozen  in  winter,  and  the  ice  accu- 
mulating, layer  upon  layer,  forms  two 
cones,  one  of  which  not  unfrequently 
attains  the  height  of  100  feet,  offering  to 
those  who  are  courageous  enough  to  ascend 
to  its  apex,  a  full  front  view  of  the  edge 
of  the  precipice,  and  the  still  surface  of 
the  Montmorcnci  River  s!cci)ing  in  its  icy 
bed.  The  second  cone  is  much  used  for 
'*  toboggining."  Experts  in  this  exclu- 
sively Canadian  amusement  climb  to  the 
top  of  the  cone ;  and  then,  perching 
themselves  on  their  "toboggins"  (a  sort  of 
light  Indian  sleigh),  dash  down  the  glassy 
448* 


slope  with  a  velocity  which,  increasing 
every  instant,  occasionally  carries  the 
hardy  toboggiuers  a  full  half  mile  from 
the  pinnacle  whence  they  started.  Before 
quitting  the  picturesque  banks  of  the 
Montmorenci,  the  tourist  should  by  all 
means  visit  the  Natural  Stcps^  2  miles 
above  the  cataract.  The  limestone  rock 
bordering  the  river  is  there  formed  for 
half  a  mile,  into  a  succession  of  steps, 
each  about  a  foot  in  -xepth,  as  regularly 
arranged  as  if  they  had  been  hewn  out  by 
human  hands.  The  "Mansion  House," 
in  which  the  Duke  of  Kent  passed  the 
summer  of  1791,  stands  at  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  falls. 

Tlie  Wi\\\s  ofi*  gt.  Aiane,  in 
the  river  St.  Anne,  24  miles  below  Quebec, 
are  in  the  neighborhood  of  great  pictur- 
osque  beauty.  Starting  from  the  city  in 
the  morning  betimes,  one  may  visit  Mont- 
morenci, and  proceed  thence  with  ease 
the  same  evening  to  St.  Anne.  Next 
morning  after  a  leisurely  survey  of  these 
cascades,  there  will  be  most  of  tlic  day 
left  to  get  back,  with  any  detours  that 
may  seem  desirable,  to  Quebec. 

'S'lae  Palis  oftllac  Cliaiitliere 
are  reached  via  Point  Levi.  The  rapid 
river  plunges  over  a  precipice  of  130  feet, 
presenting  very  much  the  look  of  boiling 
water,  whence  its  name  of  chaudiere,  cr 
caldron.  The  cataract  is  broken  into 
three  separate  parts  by  the  intervention 


of 


huge  projecting 


rocks,  but   it  is   re- 


united before  it  reaches  the  basin  beneath. 
We  now  take  our  leave  of  Quebec  v>'ith 
its  unique  natural  beauties,  and  its  win- 


nmg 


stories,    with  the  remembrance  of 


some  of  the  impressions  it  made  upon 
Professor  Silllman,  wlien  he  visited  it 
years  ago :  "  Quebec,"  he  writes,  "  at 
least  for  an  American  city,  is  certainly  a 
very  peculiar  place.  A  miUtary  town — 
containing  about  20,000  inhabitants — 
most  compactly  and  permanently  built — 
environed,  as  to  its  most  important  parts, 
by  walls  and  gates,  and  defended  by 
numerous  heavy  cannon — gairisoncd  by 
troops  having  the  arms,  the  costume,  the 
music,  the  discipline  of  Eui'ope — foreign 
in  language,  Icatures,  and  origin,  from 
most  of  tliose  whom  they  are  sent  to  de- 
fend— founded  upon  a  rock,  and  in  its 
highest  parts  overlooking  a  great  extent 
of  country — between  300  and  400  miles 


The  Saguenay.] 


CANADA. 


[The  Saguenay. 


from  the  ocean,  in  the  midst  of  a  great 
continent,  and  yet  displajang  fleets  of 
foreign  merchantmen  in  its  fine  capacious 
Lay,  and  showing  all  the  bustle  of  a 
crowded  seaport  —  its  streets  narrow, 
populous,  and  winding  up  and  down  al- 
most mountainous  declivities — situated 
in  the  latitude  of  the  finest  ports  of 
Europe,  exhibiting  in  it^  environs  the 
beauty  of  a  European  capital,  and  yet 
in  winter  smarting  with  the  cold  of 
Siberia — governed  by  a  people  of  difterent 
language  and  habits  from  the  mass  of  the 
population,  opposed  in  religion,  and  yet 
leaving  that  population  without  taxes, 
and  in  the  full  enjoyment  of  every  privi- 
lege, civil  and  religious." 

There  are  pleasant  drives  to  Spencer 
Wood,  the  Governor- General's  residence, 
and  to  Chateau-Bigot,  an  antique  and 
massive  ruin,  standing  in  solitary  loneli- 
ness, at  the  foot  of  the  Charlesbourg 
Mountain. 

When  in  Quebec  the  tourist  should  by 
all  means  take  a  run  down  to  the  Sague- 
nay River,  which  magniiicent  tiip  can  be 
performed  by  taking  the  railway  at  Point 
Levi  for  Riviere  du  Loup,  and  there 
crossing  by  steamer ;  or,  during  the  sum- 
mer months  he  can  take  the  steamer  from 
Quebec  direct  to  the  Saguenay. 

TSae  f^iagwiesiay  is  the  largest 
tributary  of  ttie  St.  Lawrence,  and  un- 
questionably one  of  the  most  remarkable 
rivers  on  the  continent.  Its  head-water 
is  Lake  St.  John,  40  miles  long,  which, 
although  11  large  rivers  fall  into  it,  has 
no  other  outlet  than  the  Saguenay.  The 
original  name  of  this  river  was  Ohicoutimi, 
an  Indian  word  signifying  deep  water  ; 
and  its  present  one  is  said  to  be  a  cor- 
ruption of  jfSamt-Jean  Nez.  The  first 
place  of  interest  to  point  out  to  the 
traveller  is 

Tadotissac,  \ymg  a  short  distance 
above  Pointe  aux  Vaches,  140  miles  from 
Quebec.  Tadoussac,  apart  from  its  pleas- 
aiit  situation  as  a  watering-place,  is  in- 
teresting from  the  circumstance  of  having 
been  the  spot  on  which  stood  the  first 
stone-and-mortar  building  ever  erected 
on  the  continent  of  America.  The  scenery 
here  is  wild  and  romantic  in  the  extreme  ; 
and  the  waters  all  round  abound  in  ex- 
cellent salmon  and  trout.  Just  in  the  rear 
of  Tadoussac,  and  at   the   Bergeronnes, 


and  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Saguenay 
among  the  Canard  Lakes,  and  at  the 
Little  Saguenay,  St.  John,  Grand  Bay, 
and  Chicoutimi,  Kenogami,  and  other 
lakes,  the  trout  are  only  too  plenty,  very 
large  and  glad  to  be  caught.  Seal-hunt- 
ing is  also  a  favorite  sport  for  those  who 
resort  to  these  shores  ;  several  varieties 
of  the  animal  are  here  met  with  in  abun- 
dance. 

The  jonrney  up  the  Saguenay  may 
be  made  semi-weekly  by  steamer  from 
Quebec,  or  by  the  Grand  Trxmk  Raihoa}/, 
101  miles  to  St.  Paschal,  Riviere  du  Loup, 
opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay,  and 
thence  by  steamer.  The  course  of  the 
Saguenay — between  lofty  and  precipitous 
heights,  and,  in  its  upper  part,  amid  rush- 
ing cataracts — is  126  miles  from  Lake  St. 
John  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  which  it  enters 
140  miles  below  Quebec.  Large  ships  as- 
cend 60  miles.  In  the  trip  from  Quebec  to 
the  Saguenay  beauties,  there  are  many  in- 
teresting points  to  be  noticed  in  the  pre- 
ceding journey  of  120  miles  down  the  St. 
Lawrence  —  the  ancient-looking  settle- 
ments on  its  banks,  and  the  not  less 
picturesque  habitants  of  the  country.  A 
day's  sail  lands  the  voyager  at  Riviere  du 
Loup,  where  he  passes  the  night  on  board 
his  steamer,  waiting  for  the  following 
morning  to  resume  his  journey.  The 
Saguenay  is  a  perfectly  straight  river, 
with  grand  precipices  on  either  side.  It 
has  neither  windings  nor  projecting  bluffs, 
nor  sloping  banks,  nor  winding  shores, 
like  other  rivers,  nor  is  its  stern,  strange 
aspect  varied  by  either  village  or  villa. 
"  It  is,"  says  a  voyager  thither,  "  as  if 
the  mountain  range  had  been  cleft  asun- 
der, leaving  a  horrid  gulf  of  60  miles  in 
length  and  4,000  feet  in  depth,  through 
the  gray  mica  schist,  and  still  looking 
fresh  and  new.  One  thousand  five  hun- 
dred feet  of  this  is  perpendicular  cliff, 
often  too  steep  and  solid  for  the  hemlock 
or  dwarf-oak  to  find  root ;  in  which  case, 
being  covered  with  colored  lichens  and 
moss,  their  fresh-looking  fractures  often 
appear,  in  shape  and  color,  like  painted 
fans,  and  are  called  the  pictured  rocks. 
But  those  parts  inore  slanting  are  thickly 
covered  witli  stunted  trees,  spruce  and 
maple  and  birch  growing  wherever  they 
can  find  crevices  to  extract  nourishment; 
and  the  bare  roots  of  the  oak,  grasping 

449 


The  Sagtjexay.] 


CANADA. 


[The  Saguenat. 


tlic  rock,  liave  a  resemblance  to  gigantic 
claws.  The  bases  of  these  cliffs  lie  fjr 
under  the  water,  to  an  unknown  depth. 
For  many  miles  from  its  mouth  no  sound- 
ings have  been  obtained  with  2,0U0  feet 
of  line;  and  for  the  entire  distance  of  60 
miles,  until  you  reach  Ha-ha  Bay,  the 
largest  ships  can  sail,  without  obstruction 
from  banks  or  shoals,  and,  on  reaching 
the  extremity  of  the  bay,  can  drop  their 
anchors  in  30  fathoms.  The  view  up 
this  river  is  singular  in  many  respects ; 
hour  after  hour,  as  you  sail  along,  preci- 
pice after  precipice  unfolds  itself  to  view, 
as  a  moving  panorama  ;  and  you  some- 
times forget  the  size  and  height  of  the 
objects  you  are  contemplating,  until  re- 
minded by  seeing  a  ship  of  1,000  tons 
lying  Hke  a  small  pinnace  under  the 
towering  cliff"  to  which  she  is  moored ; 
for  even  in  these  remote  and  desolate 
regions,  industry  is  at  work,  and,  although 
you  cannot  clearly  discern  them,  saw-mills 
have  been  built  on  some  of  the  tributary 
streams  which  fall  into  the  Saguenay. 
But  what  strikes  one  most  is  the  absence 
of  beach  or  strand,  except  in  a  few  places 
whore  mountain  torrents,  rushing  through 
gloomy  ravines,  have  washed  down  the 
detritus  of  the  hills,  and  formed  some 
alluvial  land  at  the  mouth,  no  coves,  nor 
creeks,  nor  projecting  rocks  are  seen  in 
which  a  boat  could  find  shelter,  or  any 
footing  be  obtained.  The  characteristic  is 
a  steep  wall  of  rock  rising  abruptly  from  the 
water ;  a  dark  and  desolate  region,  where 
all  is  cold  and  gloomy;  the  mountains 
hidden  with  driving  mist,  the  water  black 
as  ink,  and  cold  as  ice.  No  ducks  nor 
sea-gulls  sitting  on  the  water,  or  scream- 
ing for  their  prey.  No  hawks  nor  eagles 
soaring  overhead,  although  there  is  an 
abundance  of  what  might  be  called  'eagle 
cliffs.'  No  deer  coming  down  to  drink 
at  the  streams,  no  squirrels  nor  birds  to 
be  seen  among  the  trees.  No  fly  on  the 
water,  nor  swallows  skimming  over  the 
surface.     It  reminds  you  of 

'  Tliat  lake  whose  gloomy  shore 
Skylark  never  warbled  o'er.' 

Two  living  things  you  may  see,  but  these 
are  cold-blooded  animals  ;  you  mny  see 
the  cold  seal,  sjuxading  himself  upon  his 
clammy  rock,  v.atching  for  his  prey.  You 
may  see  him  make  his  sullen  plunge  into 
450 


the  water,  like  to  the  Styx  for  blackness. 
You  may  see  him  emerge  again,  shaking 
his  smooth  oily  sides,  and  holding  a  huge 
living  salmon  writhing  in  his  teeth  ;  and 
you  may  envy  the  fellow  faring  so  sump- 
tuously, until  you  recollect  that  you  have 
just  had  a  hearty  breakfast  of  fresh- 
grilled  salmon  yourself,  and  that  you 
enjoyed  it  as  much  as  the  seal  is   now 


morsel.       And    this 


enjoymg  nis  raw  x^^^ic^v. 
is  all  you  see  for  the  first  twenty 
niiles,  save  the  ancient  settlement  of 
Tadoussac  at  the  entriince,  and  the  pretty 
cove  of  L'Ance  a  I'Eau,  which  is  a 
fishing  station.  Now  you  reach  Cape 
Eternity,  Cape  Trinity,  and  many  other 
overhanging  cliffs,  remarkable  for  having 
such  clean  fractures,  seldom  equalled  for 
boldness  and  effect,  which  create  constant 
apprehensions  of  danger,  even  in  a  calm  ; 
but  if  you  happen  to  be  caught  in  a  thun- 
der-storm, the  roar,  and  darkness,  and 
flashes  of  lightning  are  perfectly  frightful. 
At  last  you  terminate  your  voyage  at 
Ha-ha  Bay — that  is,  Smiling  or  Laughing 
Bay,  in  the  Indian  tongue — for  you  are 
perfectly  charmed  and  relieved  to  arrive 
at  a  beautiful  spot,  where  you  have 
sloping  banks,  a  pebbly  shore,  boats  and 
wherries,  and  vessels  riding  at  anchor; 
birds  and  animals,  a  village,  a  church, 
French  Canadians,  and  Scottish  Highland- 
ers." After  duly  enjoying  the  pleasant 
"let  down"  from  the  high  tragic  tone  of 
the  landscape  you  have  been  so  long 
gazing  upon  and  wondering  at,  formed  in 
the  comparatively  pastoral  character  of 
this  upper  region  of  the  Ottawa,  you  re- 
turn to  your  steamer,  and,  descending  the 
stern  and  solenni  river,  come  again,  at 
nightfall,  to  the  Biviere  du  Loup,  from 
whence  you  started  in  the  morning.  This 
is  the  second  day  of  your  journey,  and  on 
the  third  you  are  back  once  more  in 
Quebec. 

After  leaving  these  delightful  scenes, 
and  returning  to  Quebec,  tliose  who 
choose  so  to  do,  can  set  out  for  home 
cither  by  rail,  via  Richmond,  I'orthuKl, 
Boston,  and  New  York  ;  or  via  liichmond 
by  rail  to  Sherbrokc,  thence  by  coaches  to 
Magog,  connecting  with  steamer  for  New- 
port (See  Lake  MEMruREMAGOG),  thence 
by  Passnwjiaic  JiaUwai/  to  White  and 
Fianconia  Mountains,  Boston,  or  New 
York. 


IlOUTES.1 


CANADA. 


[Routes. 


But  some  may  prefer  still  to  make  the 
deliglitful  and  invigorating  trip  down  the 
Gulf  to  New  Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia, 
visiting  numberless  other  points  of  inter- 
est on  the  way,  and  returning  homeward 
by  the  International  Steamskip  Line  to 


Portland  or  Boston,  and  thence  by  rail 
or  steamer  to  New  York.  The  best  plan 
is  to  take  either  the  steamers  to  Perce, 
and  coast  along  as  opportunity  offers  ;  or 
take  passage  on  one  of  the  Gulf  steamers 
for  Gaspe,  Shediac,  and  Pidou. 

451 


!io 
lie  1 


St.  John  River.] 


NEW  BRUNSWICK. 


[Fisheries. 


NEW  eeu:n'swick. 


Ne"w  Brunswick,  a  Province  of  Great 
Britain,  lies  upon  the  eastern  boundary 
of  the  State  of  Maine.  The  landscape  is 
of  great  variety  and  of  most  picturesque 
beauty ;  the  Avhole  Province  (excepting 
the  dozen  miles  lying  directly  on  the  sea) 
beins;  broken  into  attractive  vallevs  and 
hills,  which  northward  assume  a  very 
marked  and  sometimes  a  very  rugged 
aspect.  Much  of  its  area  of  230  miles  in 
length,  and  130  in  breadth,  is  covered 
with  magnificent  forests,  which,  as  in  the 
Dei";hboring  State  of  Maine,  constitute  its 
chief  source  of  industry  and  wealth. 

The  hills  are  nowhere  of  a  very  wonder- 
ful height,  but  they  often  rise  in  precip- 
itous and  sharp  acclivities,  which  give 
them  an  almost  Alpine  aspect;  all  the 
more  striking  in  contrast  Avith  the  peace- 
ful plains  and  vales  which  they  protect 
from  the  tempests  of  the  sea. 

Like  the  neigliboring  Province  of  Nova 
Scotia,  New  Brunswick  so  abounds  in 
lakes  and  rivers,  that  ready  w^ater  access 
may  be  had,  with  the  help  of  a  short 
portage  now  and  then,  over  its  entire 
area.  Thus  a  canoe  may  easily  be  floated 
from  the  interior  to  the  Bay  de  Chaleur, 
the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  ocean 
on  the  north,  or  to  the  St.  John  River, 
and  thence  to  the  Bay  of  Fundy  on  the 
south. 

TBie  St.  JSoUiiL  Kivcr  is  the 
largest  in  New  Brunswick,  and  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  and  beautiful  in  Amer- 
ica. It  rises  in  the  higlilands  which 
separate  Maine  from  Canada,  not  very 
far  from  the  sources  of  the  Connecticut. 
For  150  miles  it  flows  in  a  northeast 
direction,  to  the  junction  of  the  St, 
Francis.  From  the  mouth  of  the  St. 
Francis,  the  course  of  the  St.  John  is 
452 


irregularly  east-southenst  to  the  Grnmd 
Falls  ;  at  which  point  it  makes  a  descent 
of  from  '70  to  80  feet,  presenting  a  splen- 
did picture  for  the  gratification  of  the 
tourist.  The  leap  of  the  Grand  Falls 
passed,  the  river  makes  its  way  almost 
southward  for  some  distance,  after  which 
it  turns  abruptly  to  the  eastward,  and  so 
continues  its  way  for  100  miles,  passing 
Fredericton,  to  the  outlet  of  the  Grand 
Lake,  in  the  southern  central  part  of  the 
Province.  From  Grand  Lake  its  passage 
is  in  a  wide  channel,  due  south  to  Kings- 
ton, and  thence  southwest  to  St.  John, 
at  its  mouth  in  St.  John  Harbor,  on  the 
Bay  of  Fundy. 

The  entire  length  of  this  beautiful 
river  is  about  600  miles,  and  from  the 
Grand  Falls  to  the  sea,  225  miles,  its 
course  is  within  the  British  territory. 
The  river  and  its  affluents  are  thought  to 
afford  1,300  miles  of  navigable  waters. 
Very  much  of  the  shores  of  the  St.  John 
is  wild  forest-land.  In  some  parts,  the 
banks  rise  in  grand  rocky  hills,  forming 
in  their  lines  and  interlacings  pictures 
of  wonderful  delight. 

The  chief  tributaries  of  the  St.  John, 
besides  the  St.  Francis  and  other  waters 
already  mentioned,  arc  the  Aroostook,  the 
Oromocto,  and  tlie  Eel,  on  the  west ;  and 
the  Salmon,  the  Nashwaak,  the  Tobique, 
the  Kcnnebccasis,  and  the  Washedemoak, 
on  the  east. 

The  coast,  and  bays,  and  lakes,  and 
rivers  of  New  Brunswick  abound  with 
fish  of  almost  every  variety  and  in  im- 
mense supplies.  The  fislieries  of  the  Bay 
of  Fundy  are  of  great  value,  and  employ 
vast  numbers  of  the  population.  In  the 
harbor  of  St.  John  alone  there  have  been, 
at  one  time,    200  boats   with  500  men 


St.  John.] 


NEW  BRUNSWICK. 


[Fredericton. 


taking  salmon,  shad,  and  other-  fish. 
Nearly  600  fishermen  have  been  seen 
at  one  period  at  the  Island  of  Grand 
Manan ;  while  at  the  West  Isles,  about 
700  men  have  been  tlms  employed  at 
one  moment ;  and  so  on  at  many  of  the 
other  countless  fishing  grounds  and  sta- 
tions of  the  New  Brunswick  and  the 
Nova  Scotia  coasts. 

The  climate  here  is  healthful,  but  sub- 
ject to  great  extremes  of  heat  and  cold ; 
the  mercury  rising  sometimes  to  100°  in 
the  day-time,  and  falling  to  50°  at  night. 

Internal  Communication. — Besides  the 
steamers  and  stages  which  connect  the 
various  towns  and  cities  of  New  Bruns- 
wick and  Nova  Scotia,  lines  of  railway 
are  in  active  progress,  which  will  unite 
the  two  Provinces,  and  both  to  the  Cana- 
das  and  the  States.  A  portion  of  the 
European  and  Norih  American  Railway 
wtis  oj:eued  (August  1,  1860)  from  St. 
John  to  Shediac,  106  miles ;  from  whence 
steamers  connect  with  Charlottetown,  P. 
E.  Island ;  Pictou,  N.  S. ;  the  northern 
ports  of  New  Brunswick,  and  Quebec. 
This  line  opens  up  new  and  pleasant 
ground  to  the  tourist.  Another  road  is 
to  extend  from  St.  Andrews  to  Wood- 
stock, and  thence  to  Quebec.  The  mag- 
netic telegraph  already  connects  New 
Brunswick,  Nova  Scotia,  and  Prince 
Edward's  Island  with  the  States.  The 
connection  betv/een  Nova  Scotia  and 
Prince  Edward's  Island  is  by  a  subma- 
rine cable,  nine  miles  from  Cape  Tormen- 
trne  to  Cape  Traverse. 

St.  .lolaEa.  —  Hotel,  Waverley 
Hoiise. 

Routes. — From  Boston,  Mass.,  every 
Monday  and  Thursday,  at  9  a.  m.,  by 
steamer.  From  Halifax,  via  ¥/indsor, 
N.  S.,  45  miles  by  rail,  and  thence  by 
steamer,  110  miles,  to  St.  John, 

St.  John,  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John 
River,  is  the  principal  city  of  New  Bruns- 
wick, with  a  population  of  over  30,000. 
It  is  superbly  situated  upon  a  bold,  rocky 
peninsula,  and  is  seen  very  imposingly 
from  the  sea.  The  scenery  of  the  St. 
John  River  is  very  striking,  in  the  pas- 
sage immediately  preceding  its  entrance 
into  the  harbor,  and  a  mile  and  a  half 


above  the  city.  It  makes  its  impetuous 
way  here  in  a  chain  of  grand  rapids, 
through  rugged  gaps,  240  feet  wide  and 
1,'200  feet  long.  The  i)assage  is  navi- 
gable only  during  the  very  brief  time  of 
high  and  equal  tides  in  the  harbor  and 
the  river;  for  at  low  water  the  river  is 
about  12  feet  higher  than  the  harbor, 
while  at  high  water  the  harbor  is  five  feet 
above  the  river.  It  is  thus  only,  when 
the  waters  of  the  harbor  and  of  the  river 
are  on  a  level,  that  vessels  can  pass  ;  and 
this  occurs  only  during  a  space  of  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  minutes,  at  each  ebb 
and  flow  of  the  tide.  Immense  quantities 
of  timber  are  rafted  down  from  the  forests 
of  the  river  above  to  St.  John.  It  is  the 
entrepot  also  of  the  agricultural  and  min- 
eral products  of  a  wide  region  of  country, 

l^reiicricton.  —  Hotel,  Barker 
House. 

Routes. — From  Boston,  via  St.  John. 

Fredericton,  the  capital  of  New  Bruns- 
wick, stands  upon  a  flat  tongue  of  land, 
in  a  bend  of  the  St.  John  River,  80  miles 
from  its  mouth.  This  sandy  plain  is 
about  three  miles  long,  sometimes  reach- 
ing a  breadth  of  half  a  mile.  The  river, 
which  is  navigable  up  to  this  point,  is 
here  three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide.  Small 
steamers  ascend  60  miles  yet  above  to 
Woodstock,  and  sometimes  to  the  foot 
of  the  Great  Falls. 

The  view,  both  up  and  down  the 
valley,  is  most  interesting — to  the  north 
an  uncleared  range  of  highlands,  with 
detached  cones  and  broken  hills  thrown 
out  in  bold  relief  upon  the  landscape. 
Villas  enclosed  in  the  woods,  and  farms 
upon  the  clearings,  are  the  chief  objects 
it  presents ;  while  to  the  south  the  river 
is  seen  winding,  like  a  silver  cord,  through 
the  dark  woodlands,  until  it  disappears 
among  the  islands  in  the  distance. 

^t»  Aii«li°e^rs,  with  a  population 
of  about  8,000,  is  at  the  northeast  ex- 
tremity of  Passaraaquoddy  Bay,  three 
miles  from  the  shores  of  the  United 
States,  near  Eastport,  in  Maine,  and  60 
miles  from  St.  John.  A  railway  will 
connect  St.  Andrews  with  Woodstock,  80 
miles  distant,  and  will  be  continued  to 
Canada. 

453 


NoYA  Scotia.] 


NOYA  SCOTIA. 


[Rivers  and  Lakes. 


NOYA    SCOTIA. 


Nova  Scotia,  the  ancient  Acadia,  in- 
cluding the  Island  of  Cape  Breton  and 
Sable  Island,  lies  southeast  of  New  Bruns- 
wick, from  which  it  is  separated  by  the 
Bay  of  Fundy,  except  only  at  the  narrow 
isthmus  of  Chimecto.  It  mav  be  reached 
at  Halifax,  its  capital,  by  the  British 
steamers  from  New  York  and  Boston. 
The  railway's  now  in  progress  within  its 
Ihnits  will  soon  more  conveniently  unite 
it  with  the  cities  of  the  Canadas  and  the 
United  States.  The  area  of  the  Province 
is  18,'7-i6  square  miles,  including  the 
3,000  of  Cape  Breton,  and  the  ^69  of 
Sable  Island.  The  southern  shores  are 
often  very  rugged.  The  interior  is  di- 
versified with  hills  and  valleys,  though  not 
of  very  bold  character,  as  the  highest 
land  is  but  1,200  feet  above  the  sea. 
The  numerous  lakes  cover  much  of  the 
southern  part  of  the  Province.  The  agri- 
cultural capabilities  vary  much  for  the 
area  of  the  country.  On  the  Atlantic 
coast  much  of  the  soil  is  rocky  and 
barren.  The  richest  soils  are  m  that 
section  of  the  country  bordering  upon 
the  Bay  of  Fundy  and  the  Gulf  of  St. 
Lawrence,  and  the  streams  emptying  into 
them ;  and,  generally  speaking,  this  is 
the  most  thickly-settled  region.  Nova 
Scotia  has  become  so  much  denuded  of 
its  valuable  timber,  that  its  lumber  trade 
is  now  neither  very  large  nor  productive, 
compared  Avith  that  of  New  Brunswick  or 
Canada.  Furming,  however,  especially  in 
the  finer  agricultural  districts  just  named, 
is  extensively  carried  on,  and  is  very  re- 
munerative. 

The  extensive  mineral  deposits  of  coal, 

iron,  and  copper,  have  become,  of  late 

years,  an  object  of  great  and  constantly 

increaBing  attention  to  the  inhabitants'; 

454 


the  gypsum,  grindstones,  and  building 
stone  of  various  kinds,  have  long  been  im- 
portant articles  of  export.  Upon  the 
Atlantic  coast,  too,  many  people  are  oc- 
cupied in  the  extensive  fishing  trade, 
which  has  been  prosecuted  here  more 
actively  than  upon  any  of  the  British- 
American  shores,  excepting  only  that  of 
Newfoundland. 

The  Coast  of  Nova  Scotia. — The 
greatest  length  of  Nova  Scotia  is  356 
miles,  and  the  greatest  breadth  120  miles. 
The  southeast  coast,  in  a  distance  of  110 
miles  only  from  Cape  Canso  to  Halifax, 
has  no  less  than  12  ports  capacious 
enough  to  receive  ships-of-the-line,  and 
14  deep  enough  for  merchantmen.  A 
belt  of  rugged  broken  land,  of  v/hich  the 
greatest  height  is  500  feet,  formed  of 
granite  and  primary  rock,  extends  along 
all  the  Atlantic  shore,  from  Cape  Canso 
to  Cape  Sable.  This  belt  varies  in  breadth 
from  10  to  50  miles,  and  covers  about 
one-third  of  the  whole  Province.  From 
Briar's  Island,  off  Digby  Neck,  130  miles 
to  Capes  Spht  and  Blomidon,  along  the 
northern  coast  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  there 
is  a  ridge  of  wooded  frowning  precipices 
of  trap  rock,  which  overhang  the  waves 
at  an  elevation  of  from  100  to  600  feet. 
These  magnificent  cliffs  are  picturesque 
and  grand  in  the  extreme.  They  are,  too 
(which  is  something  in  this  utilitarian 
age),  not  only  ornamental,  but  useful,  for 
they  serve  to  protect  the  interior  from 
the  terrible  fogs  of  the  bay. 

The  Rivers,  Lakes,  and  Bays  op 
Nova  Scotia. — The  lakes  here,  though 
generally  small,  are  almost  countless  in 
number,  covering  the  southern  portions 
of  the  peninsula  as  with  a  network  of 
smiling  waters.     In  some  instances,  no 


LVLIFAX.] 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


[IIalifax. 


5SS  than  ]  00  are  grouped  witliin  a  space 
f  20  square  mil."s.  Lake  Rossignol,  the 
irgest  of  the  region,  is  30  miles  long, 
t  is  near  the  western  end  of  the  penin- 
ida.  Grand  Lake  comes  next,  then  Col- 
.■■ge  Lake  eastward.  Minas  Bay,  on  the 
orth  coast,  the  eastern  arm  of  the  Bay 
1  Fundy,  penetrating  60  miles  inland,  is 
ery  remarkable  for  the  tremendous  tides 
"hich  rush  in  here,  sometimes  to  the 
eight  of  GO  to  70  feet,  while  they  do  not 
each  more  than  from  6  to  9  feet  in  the 
arbor  of  Halifax,  directly  opposite ; 
hooe  are  the  spring-tides.  They  form 
'hat  is  called  the  hove.  The  Bays  of  St. 
lary's,  the  Gut  of  Canso,  Townsend  Bay, 
Tcorge  Bay,  and  Chedabucto  !5ay,  in  the 
astei'u  part  of  the  Province,  and  St.  Mar- 
aret's  and  Mahone  Bays,  on  the  south, 
re  all  large  and  most  interesting  waters. 

The  A7inapolis  River  flows  into  the 
;ay  of  Fundy,  100  miles  ii'om  the  Gar- 
en  of  Acadia,  Besides  this  principal 
iver  there  are  many  others  navigable  for 

greater  or  less  distance  from  their 
louths,  as  the  Shubenacadie,  which,  by 
lie  help  of  a  canal,  connects  Cobequid 
:>ay,  from  the  Bay  of  Fundy  on  the  north 
ide  of  the  peninsula,  with  Halifax  Har- 
bor on  the  south  ;  the  Tusket  and  the 
Jlyde  in  the  southwest  extremity  of  the 
'rovince,  the  Mersey,  the  Musquodoholt, 
nd  the  St.  Mary's.  Indeed,  rivers  pour 
heir  waters  into  all  the  many  bays  and 
arbors  which  so  thickly  stud  the  v/hole 
.nc  of  these  remarkable  coasts. 

Malifiax. — Hotels,  Waverlcy,  Siew- 
■rfs,  and  Halifax  Jloicl. 

Routes. — From  New  York  direct,  by 
he  British  mail  steamers.  From  St. 
ohn,  N.  B.,  by  steamer,  110  miles,  to 
Vindsor,  thence  by  rail,  45  miles,  to 
lalifax. 

Halifax,  the  capital  of  Nova  Scotia,  is 
pon  the  south  coast  of  the  peninsula,  on 
he  declivity  of  a  hill,  about  250  feet  high, 
ising  from  one  of  the  finest  harbors  on 
:  he  continent.  The  streets  are  generally 
•road,  and  for  the  most  part  macada- 
lized.  Viewed  from  the  water,  or  from 
he  opposite  shore,  the  city  is  prepossess- 
ig  and  animated.  In  front,  the  tovvm 
3  lined  with  wharves,  which,  from  the 
umber  of  vessels  constantly  loading  and 
ischarging,  always  exhibit  a  spectacle 
f  great  commercial  activity.   Warehouses 


rise  over  the  wharves,  or  tower  aloft  in 
different  parts  of  the  town,  and  dwelling- 
houses  and  public  buildings  rear  their 
heads  over  each  other,  as  they  stretch 
along  and  up  the  sides  of  the  hill.  The 
spires  of  the  different  churches,  the  build- 
ing above  the  town  in  which  the  town- 
clock  is  fixed,  a  rotunda-built  church, 
the  signal-posts  on  Citadel  Hill,  the  dilfer- 
eut  batteries,  the  vai'iety  of  style  in  which 
the  houses  are  built  (some  of  which  are 
painted  white,  some  blue,  and  some  red) ; 
rows  of  trees  showing  themselves  in  dif- 
ferent  parts  of  the  town ;  the  ships  moored 
opposite  the  dockyard,  with  the  establish- 
ments and  tall  shears  of  the  latter ;  the 
merchant  vessels  under  sail,  at  anchor,  or 
along  the  wharves ;  the  wooded  and  rocky 
scenery  of  the  background,  with  the 
islands  and  the  small  town  of  Dartmouth 
on  the  east  shore — are  all  objects  most 
agreeable  to  see. 

Of  the  public  buildings,  the  chief  is  a 
handsome  edifice  of  stone,  called  the 
Province  Building,  140  feet  long  by  70 
broad,  and  ornamented  with  a  colonnade 
of  the  Ionic  order.  It  comprises  suitable 
chambers  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
Council  and  Legislative  Assembly,  and 
also  for  various  Government  offices.  The 
Government  House,  in  the  southern  part 
of  the  town,  is  a  solid  but  gloomy-looking 
structure,  near  which  is  the  residence  of 
the  military  commandant.  The  admiral's 
residence,  on  the  north  side  of  the  town, 
is  a  plain  building  of  stone.  The  north 
and  south  barracks  are  capable  of  accom- 
modating three  regiments.  The  Welling- 
ton Barracks  (in  the  northern  part  of  the 
town),  which  comprises  tvro  long  ranges 
of  substantial  stone  and  brick  buildings, 
is  the  most  extensive  and  costly  establish- 
ment of  the  kind  in  North  America. 
There  is  also  a  Military  Hospital,  erected 
by  the  late  Duke  of  Kent.  Dalhousie 
College  is  a  handsome  edifice  of  freestone. 
Among  the  churches  of  various  denomi- 
nations are  several  of  the  English  estab- 
lishment, and  of  the  Presbytei'ian  order, 
and  two  of  the  Roman  Catholic  faith. 
The  Court-House  is  a  spacious  freestone 
structure,  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
town.  In  the  suburbs  is  a  new  Hospital. 
The  banking  establishments  are  four  iu 
number.  The  hotels  and  boarding-houses 
are  not  of  the  highest  order.     The 

455 


m- 


Halifax.] 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


[Halifax. 


habitants  of  Halifax  are  intelligent  and 
social,  and  travellers  will  remark  a  tone 
of  society  here  more  decidedly  English 
than  in  most  of  the  other  colonial  cities. 
The  harbor  opposite  the  town  is  more 
than  a  mile  wide,  and  has,  at  medium 
tides,  a  depth  of  12  fathoms.  About  a 
mile  above  the  upper  end  of  the  town  it 
narrows  to  one-fourth  of  a  mile,  and  then 
expands  into  Bedford  Basin,  which  has  a 
surface  of  ten  square  miles,  and  is  com- 
pletely land-locked.  On  an  island  oppo- 
site the  town  are  some  strong  mounted 
batteries.  The  harbor  is  also  defended 
by  some  other  minor  fortifications.  The 
Citadel  occupies  the  summit  of  the  heights 
commanding  the  town,  and  is  a  mile  in 
circumference.  It  is  a  costly  work,  and, 
after  that  of  Quebec,  is  the  strongest 
fortress  in  the  British  North  American 
colonies. 

456 


Halifax,  ever  since  its  settlement  in 
1749,  has  been  the  scat  of  a  profitable 
fishery.  Its  trade,  which  is  in  a  very 
prosperous  condition,  is  principally  with 
the  West  Indies  and  other  British  colo- 
nies, with  the  United  States,  and  the 
mother  country.  It  is  also  the  chief 
rendezvous  and  naval  depot  for  the  British 
navy  on  the  North  American  station. 
The  British  Government  having  made 
Halifax  one  of  the  stopping-places  of  the 
Cunard  line  of  steamers,  in  their  trips 
either  way  across  the  Atlantic,  has  added 
greatly  to  its  importance  as  a  maritime 
city,  as  well  as  advanced  its  commercial 
prosperity. 

From  Halifax  the  traveller  can  return 
to  New  York  by  rail  to  AVindsor,  and 
thence  by  International  Steamship  Line 
to  Portland  or  Boston,  thence  by  rail  or 
steamer  to  New  York. 


I]5rDEX. 


[The  names  of  hotels  will  be  found  in  italics  in  connection  with  the  respective  cities  and 
towns  throughout  the  work]. 


Acapulco,  Mex.,  2:^9. 

Across  the  Continent,  287. 

Adams,  Mass.,  74. 

Adirondack  Mountains,  N.  Y.,  64. 

Admiralty  Inlet,  W.  T.,  269. 

Adrian,  Mich.,  229. 

Albany,  N.  Y..  43. 

Albion,  N.  Y.,  58. 

Albuquerque,  N.  M.,  274. 

Allentown,  Pa.,  166. 

Almaden  Mines,  Cal.,  259. 

Almanac,  The  Travellers',  468. 

Althouse,  Cal.,  248. 

Alton,  111.,  195. 

Altoona,  Pa.,  158. 

Amherst,  Mass.,  99. 

Ammonoosuc  River,  N.  H.,  112. 

Audover,  Mass.,  95. 

Androscoggin  River,  Me.,  125. 

Androscoggin  Lake,  Me.,  124, 

Annapolis  River,  N.  S.,455. 

Ann  Arbor,  Mich.,  228. 

Anoka,  Minn.,  216. 

Appleton,  Wis.,  223. 

Arizona,  Territory  of,  271. 

Aspinwall,  Isthmus  of  Panama,  237. 

Astoria,  L.  I.,  29. 

Astoria,  Oregon,  267. 

Atchison,  Kan.,  232. 

Athens,  N.  Y.,  43. 

Atlantic  City,  N.  J.,  130. 

Auburn,  N.  Y.,  57. 

Auburn,  Cal.,  249. 

Augusta,  Me.,  122. 

Aurora,  111.,  197. 

Aurora,  Nev.,  276. 

Ausable  Falls,  N.  Y.,  51. 

Austin,  Nevada,  276. 

Avon  Springs,  N.  Y.,  69. 


Ballston  Springs,  N.  Y.,  46. 
,  Bangor,  Me.,  123. 
Bannack,  Montana  Territory,  283. 
Barbacoas,  237. 
Barrington,  Conn.,  74. 
Bath,  Me.,  122. 
Bay  of  San  Pablo,  Cal.,  233. 
Bay  of  Suisun,  Cal.,  244. 
Bedford  Springs,  Pa.,  171. 
Belfast,  Me.,  123. 
Bellaire,  O.,  179. 
Belle  Plaine,  Minn.,  217. 
Bellows  FaUs,  Vt.,  104. 
Beloit,  Wis.,  223. 


14 


1 


Benicia,  Cal.,  244. 

Bennington,  Vt.,  116. 

Bergen,  N.  J.,  130. 

Bethlehem.  Pa.,  166. 

Beverly,  Mass.,  95. 

Beverly,  on  the  Delaware,  129. 

Biddeford,  Me.,  121. 

Binghamton,  N.  Y.,  54. 

Black  Hawk,  Col.,  285. 

Blackwell's  Island,  N.  Y.  harbor,  29. 

Bloomingdale,  N.  y.,  32. 

Bloomington,  111.,  197. 

Bloomsbury,  N.  J.,  131. 

Blue  Mounds,  Wis.,  220, 

Boise  City,  Idaho  Ter.,  280. 

Bordentown,  N.  J.,  129. 

Boston  and  Vicinity,  81 

Map  of,  81. 

East  Boston,  83. 

South  Boston,  83. 

Mount  Auburn,  88. 

Routes  from  New  YorlJ  to,  81. 
Bradford,  Mass.,  96. 
Bradford,  Vt.,  105. 
Braintree,  Mass.,  91, 
Brandon,  Vt.,  116. 
Brattleboro,  Vt.,  103. 
Bridgeport,  Conn.,  71. 
Bridgewater,  Mass.,  91. 
Brighton,  Mass.,  90,  93. 
Bristol,  Pa.,  129. 
British  Provinces,  the,  435. 
Brocknort,  N.  Y.,  88. 
Brockville,  C.  W.,  442. 
Brooklyn,  N.  Y.,  24. 

Prospect  Park,  25. 

Greenwood,  25. 

Ferries  from  New  York  to,  27. 

U.  S.  Navy  Yard,  26. 
Brownsville,  Neb.,  234. 
Brown  University,  Providence,  B.  I.,  77. 
Brunswick,  Me.,  122. 
Brushville,  L.  I.,  30. 
Budd's  Lake,  N.  J.,  132. 
Buffalo,  N.  Y.,  .58. 
Bull's  Ferry,  Hudson  River,  32. 
Bunker  Hill,  Charlestown,  96. 
Burlington,  Vt.,  50,  115.         •> 
Burlington,  N.  J.,  129, 
Burlington,  Iowa,  207. 


Cairo,  HI.,  198. 

Calais,  Me.,  124. 

Caldwell's  Landing,  N.  Y..  36, 


INDEX. 


Caleclonia  Springs,  Canada,  436. 

California,  History  and  Topography,  235. 

Cambrid2;e,  Mass.,  92. 

Camden  and  Amboy  Eailway,  129. 

Camden,  N.  J.,  129. 

Camel's  Hump  Mountain,  Vt.,  115. 

Campton  and  West  Camp  ton,  N.  H.,  107. 

Canada— Its  Geography  and  Area ;  Discovery, 

Settlement,    and   Rulers;    Government: 

Eeligion  ;   Landscape  ;  Mountains  ;    and 

Eivers,  435. 
Canandaigua  Lake,  N.  T.,  5. 
Canandaigua,  N.  Y.  Central  Railway,  53. 
Cannon  Falls,  Minn.,  218. 
Canon  City,  Col.,  285. 
Canterbury,  N.  Y.,  39. 
Cape  Cod  and  the  Sea  Islands,  91. 
Cape  Elizabeth,  Me.,  121. 
Cape  Girardeau,  Mo.,  204. 
Cape  May,  N.  J.,  131. 
Cape  Maysi,  Cuba,  237. 
Cape  St.  Lucas,  Cal.,  239. 
Carlisle,  Pa.,  108. 
Carondelet,  Mo.,  205. 
Carquinez,  Straits  of,  Cal.,  244. 
Carson  City.  Nevada,  290. 
Carson  Valley,  250. 
Carver,  Minn.,  216. 
Cascade  Range,  Or.,  266. 
Cascade  Bridge.  N.  Y.  &  Erie  R.  E.,  54. 
Catalamet,  Wash.  Ter.,  269. 
Catawissa,  Pa.,  162. 
Catskill  Village,  40. 
Catskill  Mountains  (the).  Routes  thither,  40. 

The  High  Falls,  41. 

The  High  Peak,  42. 

The  Mountain  House,  42. 

The  Plauterkill  Clove,  42. 

The  Stony  Clove,  41. 

The  Two  Lakes,  41. 
Caughnawaga,  Canada,  416. 
Cayuga,  N.  Y.  Central  Railway,  57. 
Cayuga  Lake,  N.  Y.,  57. 
Cedar  City,  Utah,  279. 
Cedar  River,  Iowa,  206. 
Cedar  Falls,  Iowa,  208. 
Cedar  Rapids,  Iowa,  208. 
Cedarmere,  L.  I.,  30. 
Centre  Harbor,  N.  U.,  106. 
Central  City,  Col.,  285. 
Chambersburg,  Pa.,  109. 
Charlestown,  Mass.,  96. 
Charlestown,  N.  U.,  Iu4. 
Charlestown,  Del.,  135. 
Charlotte,  N.  Y.,  443. 
Chaska,  Minn.,  216, 
Chaudiere  Falls,  Canada,  448. 
Chelsea,  Mass.,  94. 
Chelsea  Beach,  Mass.,  90. 
Cherry  Valley,  N.  Y.,  69 
Chester,  Del.,  IM. 
Chica^ro,  111..  188. 

Map  of,  188. 
Chicnpce,  Mass.,  97. 
Chillicothe,  O.,  180. 
Chippewa,  N.  Y.,  61. 
Chisago  Lake,  Minn.,  218. 
Chryselcr's  Farm,  Canada,  4-14. 
Ciuciimati,  O.,  173. 

Map  of,  173. 
Clarenumt,  N.  H.,  104. 
Clarendon  Springs,  Vt.,  116. 
Cleveland,  O..  179. 
Coburg,  Canada,  443. 
ii 


Cohassett,  Mass.,  91. 
Cold  Spring,  N.  Y.,  38. 
Colorado  Territory,  284. 
Colorado  City,  Col.,  285. 
Columbia  Springs,  N.  Y.,  4.3,  69. 
Columbia,  Pa.,  168. 
Columbia,  Mo.,  204. 
Columbia,  Cal.,  256. 
Columbia  River,  Or.,  265.J 
Columbus,  O.,  178. 
Columbus,  Neb.,  234. 
Coney  Island,  N.  Y.  Harbor,  29. 
Concord,  Mass.,  96. 
Concord,  N.  H.,  103. 
Connecticut  River,  etc.,  96. 
Connecticut,  State  of,  70. 
Conway  Valley,  N.  H.,  106. 
Cooperstown,  N.  Y..  69. 
Cornwall  Landing,  N.  Y.,  39. 
Corning,  N.  Y.,  55. 
Cornwall,  C.  W.,  441. 
Corry,  Pa.,  162,  165. 
Coulterville.  Cal.,  257. 
Coxsackie,  N.  Y.,  4-3. 
Cozzcns,  N.  Y.,  37. 
Crescent  City,  Cal.,  262. 
Creti'sou  Springs,  Pa.,  171. 
Croton  Falls.  iST.  Y.,  45. 
Croton  Point,  N.  Y.,  35. 
Cro'  Nest,  N.  Y.,  38. 
Crow  Wing,  Minn.,  216. 
Culabra,  Isthmus  of  Panama,  238. 


Dacotah  Territory,  286. 

Dalles  City,  Oregon,  267. 

Dartmouth  College,  Hanover,  N.  H.,  105. 

Davenport,  Iowa,  207. 

Dayton,  Nevada,  276. 

Dayton,  O..  177. 

Decatur,  111.,  198. 

Decatur,  Nebraska,  2.34. 

Deerfield  Mountain,  Mass.,  99. 

Delaware,  Slate  of,  133. 

Delaware  River,  139. 

Delaware  Water  Gap,  Pa.,  109. 

Denver,  Col.,  284. 

De  Pere,  Wis.,  22-3. 

Des  Moines  River,  Iowa,  207. 

Des  Moines,  Iowa.,  208. 

Des  Plaines  River,  111.,  187. 

Detroit,  Mich.,  227. 

Dickenson  Landing,  C.  W.,  441. 

Dixon,  111.,  197. 

Dobb's  Ferry,  Hudson  River,  34. 

Doniphan,  Kansas,  232. 

Dover,  N.  J.,  131. 

Dover,  Del.,  136. 

Dover  Plains,  Harlem  Railway,  45.  j 

Downington,  Pa.,  156. 

Downieville,  Cal.,  248. 

Dubuque,  Iowa,  207. 

Duncannon,  Pa.,  156. 

Dunkirk.  N.  Y.  and  Erie  R.  R.,  56. 

Dutch  Flat,  Cal.,  349.  j 

East  Cambridge.  Mass.,  92. 
Eastport,  Me.,  12.3. 
Eastern  Railway,  Mass.,  94. 
Easthampton,  Mass.,  97. 
Easton,  Pa.,  166. 
Echo  Lake.  N.  II.,  110. 
Elizabeth,  N.  J.,  127. 


INDEX. 


Elkton,  Del.,  135. 
Elmira,  N.  Y.,  55. 
Empire  City,  Col.,  285. 
Enfield,  Conn.,  73. 
Ephrata  Springs,  Pa.,  156. 
Epsom  Salts  Cave,  Ind.,  183. 
Erie,  Pa.,  162. 
Escanaba,  Wis.,  225. 
Evanston,  111.,  197. 
Evansville,  Ind.,  185. 


Fallen  Leaf  Lake,  Cal.,  251. 

Fall  City.  Neb.,  234. 

Fall  River,  Mass.,  92. 

Fall  River  Route— N.  Y.  to  Boston,  81. 

Falls  Village,  Conn.,  73. 

Falls  of  the  Passaic,  N.  J.,  131. 

Falls  of  the  Sawkill,  N.  Y.,  53. 

Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  Minn.,  213. 

Falls  of  St.  Anne,  C.  E.,  448. 

Falls  of  the  St.  Louis,  Minn.,  215. 

Faribault,  Minn.,  217. 

Fillmore  City,  Utah,  279. 

Fishkill,  N.  Y.,  39. 

Fitchburg,  Mass.,  96. 

Flatbush,  L.  I.,  29. 

Flatlands,  L.  I.,  29. 

Flushing.  L.  I.,  31. 

Folsom,  Cal.,  249. 

Fond  du  Lac,  Wis.,  223. 

Fonteuelle,  Neb.,  234. 

Fort  Atkinson,  Wis.,  294. 

Fort  Des  Moines,  Iowa,  208. 

Fort  Hamilton,  N.  Y.,  28. 

Fort  Hope,  C.  W.,  443. 

Fort  Leavenworth,  Kansas,  2^. 

Fort  Lee,  N.  Y.,  33. 

Fort  Madison,  Iowa,  208. 

Fort  Plain,  N.  Y.,  56. 

Fort  Riley,  Kansas,  232. 

Fort  Scott,  Kansas,  232. 

Fort  Snelling,  Minn.,  214. 

Fort  Tejon,  Cal.,  260. 

Fort  Ticonderoga,  N.  Y.,  48. 

Fort  Vancouver,  Washington  Ter.,  269. 

Fort  Washington,  N.  Y.,  33. 

Fort  Wavne,  Ind.,  184. 

Fortification  Rock,  Wis.,  220. 

Fountain  Cave,  Minn.,  213. 

Fox  River,  111.,  188. 

Framingham,  Mass.,  93. 

Franconia  Hills,  N.  H.,  109. 

Franklin,  Pa.,  164. 

Fredericton,  N.  B.,  453. 

Freeport,  111.,  197. 

Fremont,  Neb.,  234. 

French  Creek,  C.  W.,  442. 


Galena,  111.,  197. 

Galesburg,  HI.,  197. 

Gananoque,  C.  W.,  442. 

Gardiner,  Me.,  122. 

Gasconade,  Mo.,  201. 

Gates  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  Mo.  EiTer. 

Gatun  Station,  Isthmus  of  Panama,  237. 

Genesee  Falls,  N.  Y.,  57 

Geneva,  N.  Y.,  57. 

Genoa,  Nev.,  376. 

Georgetown,  Mass.,  96. 

Georgeville,  C.  E.,  118. 

Gettysburg,  Pa.,  169. 

Geyser  Springs,  Cal.,  255.    • 


Glen  Cove,  L.  L,  31 

Glenns  Falls,  N.  Y.,  47.' 

Golden  City,  Cal.,  285. 

Gorham,  N.  H.,  108. 

Grafton,  Mass.,  93. 

Grand  Haven,  Mich.,  228. 

Grand  Prairie,  111.,  186. 

Grand  Rapids,  Mich.,  229. 

Grand  Trunk  Railway,  Canada,  436. 

Grass  Valley,  Cal.,  249. 

Gravesend,  L.  I.,  29. 

Great  Barrington,  Mass.,  74. 

Great  Bend  of  Connecticut  River,  Mass.,  99. 

Great  Falls  of  the  Missouri,  200. 

Great  Salt  Lake  City,  Utah,  278. 

Great  Salt  Lake,  Utah,  277. 

Great  Sioux  River,  Iowa,  206. 

Green  Bay,  Wis.,  223. 

Green  Bush,  N.  Y.,  44. 

Greenfield,  Mass.,  99. 

Green  Island,  Wis.,  225. 

Green  Lake,  Minn.,  218. 

Greensburg,  Pa.,  150. 

Greenwood  Lake,  N.  Y.,  1.32. 

Greenwood  Cemetery,  N.  Y.,  25. 

Grinnell,  Iowa,  209. 

Groton,  Mass.,  96. 


Hackensack,  N.  J.,  131. 

Hackettstown,  N.  J.,  131. 

Hadley,  Mass.,  98. 

Halifax,  N.  S.,  45.5. 

Hallowell,  Me.,  122. 

Hamilton,  O.,  177. 

Hamilton,  C.  W.,  443. 

Hampton,  N.  H.,  103. 

Hancock,  N.  Y.  and  Erie  R.  R.,  54. 

Hanover,  N.  IL,  105. 

Hannibal,  Mo.,  204. 

Harlem  Railway.,N.  Y.,  45. 

Harrison  Square,  Mass.,  91. 

Harrisburg,  Pa.,  162. 

Hartford,  Conn.,  72. 

Hartland,  N.  H.,  105. 

Harvard  University,  Cambridge,  87. 

Hastings,  N.  Y.,  34. 

Hastings,  Minn.,  217. 

Hatfield,  Mass.,  99. 

Haverhill,  Mass.,  96. 

Haverstraw,  on  the  Hudson,  36. 

Healdsburg,  Cal.,  252. 

Helena,  Montana  Ter.,  283. 

Hellertown,  Pa.,  165. 

Hempstead  Village,  L.  I.,  30. 

Highlands  of  the  Hudson,  37. 

Hingham,  Mass.,  91. 

Hoboken,  N.  J.,  28. 

Holyoke,  Mass.,  97. 

Hornellsville,  N.  Y.  and  Erie  E.  R.,  55. 

Hot  Springs,  Nev.,  276. 

Housatonic  River,  Valley,  and  Railway,  73. 

Hudson  River,  Description  of,  32. 

Hudson  River  Railway,  31. 

Hudson,  N.  Y.,  42. 

Humboldt,  Nev.,  276. 

Huntingdon,  Pa.,  158. 

Hyde  Park,  on  the  Hudson,  40. 

Hyde  Park,  L.  I..  30. 


Idaho  Territory,  280. 
Idaho  Cliy,  I.  T.,  281. 


lU 


INDEX. 


"Idlewild,"  on  the  Hudson,  39. 

IHinois,  State  of,  186. 

Illinois  River,  187. 

Indiana,  State  of,  180. 

Indianapolis,  Ind.,  181. 

Introduction,  Advice  to  Travellers,  etc.,  1. 

Iowa  City,  208. 

Iowa  River,  206. 

Iowa,  State  of,  206. 

Ipswich,  Mass.,  95. 

Iron  Mountain,  Mo.,  199. 

Irvineton,  Pa.,  162. 

IrviniJ:ton  and  "Sunnyside,"  on  the  Hudson, 

^34. 
Island  Pond,  Yt.,  102. 
Isle  of  Shoals,  Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  91, 103. 
IsUp,  L.  I.,  31. 


Jackson,  Mich.,  239. 
Jacksonville,  111.,  198. 
Jacksonville,  Cal.,  248. 
Jamaica.  L.  I.,  30. 
Jamesburg,  N.  J.,  129. 
Janesville,  Wis.,  223. 
Jefferson  City,  Mo.,  204. 
Jefl'ersonville,  Ind.,  184. 
Jersey  City,  N.  J.,  127. 
Johnstown,  Pa.,  128. 
Joliet,  111.,  196. 
Juniata  River,  Pa.,  139. 


Kaatskill,  N.  Y.,  40. 

Kalamazoo,  Mich.,  229. 

Kansas— Character  and  Settlement,  230. 

Routes  thither,  231. 
Kansas  City,  Mo.,  232. 
Kansas  River,  201. 
Katahdin  Mount.,  Me.,  134. 
Kankakee  River,  111.,  188. 
Kankauna,  Wis.,  223. 
Kearney  City,  Neb.,  234. 
Keene,  N.  H.,  104. 
Keeseville,  N.  Y.,  66. 
Kenosha,  Wis.,  222. 
Kennebec  River,  Me.,  125. 
Kensington,  Pa.,  129. 
Keokuk,  Iowa,  208. 
Killington  Peak,  Vt..  116. 
Kinderhook,  on  the  Hudson,  43. 
Kingston,  Canada,  412. 
Kingston,  on  the  Hudson,  40. 
King's  Bridge,  N.  Y.,  33. 
Kittery,  Me.,  122.        i 


Lachine,  Canada,  4-JO. 
Lackawanna,  Pa..  139. 
Lackawaxen,  N.  Y.,  53. 
La  Fayette,  Ind..  185. 
Lake  Castleton,  Vt.,  116. 
Lake  Champlaiu,  N.  Y.,  50. 
Lake  City,  Minn..  217. 
Lake  Dinimore,  Vt.,  116. 
Lake  Erie,  444. 
Lake  George,  N.  Y.,  48. 
Lake  Huron,  444. 
Lake  Mahopac,  N.  Y.,  45. 
Lake  Meniphrcmagog,  Vt.,  119. 
Lake  Michigan,  188. 
Lake  Pepin,  Minn.,  211. 
Lake  Pleasant,  N.  Y.,  05. 
Lake  Ontario,  440. 
iy 


Lake  Region,  444. 

Lake  St.  Croix,  Minn.,  215. 

Lake  St.  Francis,  C.  E.,  440. 

Lake  St.  Louis,  C.  E.,  440. 

Lake  Superior,  445. 

Lake  Tahoe,  Nev.,  276. 

Lake  Umbagog,  Me.,  124. 

Lake  Willoughby,  Vt.,  117. 

Lake  Winnebago,  Wis.,  219. 

Lake  Winnipesaukee,  N.  H.,  106. 

Lancaster,  Pa.,  150. 

Lansing,  Mich.,  228. 

La  Salle,  111.,  196. 

Lawrence,  Mass.,  95. 

Lawn'ence,  Kansas,  232. 

Leavenworth  City,  Kansas,  233. 

Lebanon,  Pa.,  162. 

Lebanon  Springs.  N.  Y.,  43,  68,  74. 

Leeds's  Station,  Me.,  123. 

Lehigh  River,  139. 

Lewfston,  N.  Y.,  63. 

Lewiston,  Me.,  123. 

Le^dston,  Idaho  Ter.,  281. 

Lew-istown,  Pa.,  158. 

Lexington,  Mass.,  96. 

Lexington,  Mo.,  204. 

Lima,  O.,  177. 

"  Lindenwald,"  Home  of  Martin  Van  Buren, 

43. 
Little  Bay  de  Noquet,  Wis.,  225. 
Little  Chute,  Wis.,  223. 
Little  Falls,  N.  Y.,  56. 
Little  Sturgeon  Pt.,  Wis.,  225. 
Little  Wabash  River,  111.,  188. 
Lockhaven,  Pa.,  162. 
Lockport,  N.  Y.,  58. 
London,  C.  W.,  441. 
Lone  Mountain  Cemetery,  Cal.,  341. 
Long  Branch,  N.  J.,  130. 
Long  Island,  N.  Y.,  29. 
Los  Angeles,  Cal.,  260. 
Lowell,  Mass.,  94. 
Lynn,  Mass.,  94. 


Mackinac,  the  Straits  of,  444. 
Madison,  Ind.,  184. 
Madison.  Wis..  222. 
Magog,  C.  E.,  118. 
Mahopac  Lake,  N.  Y.,  45. 
Maine,  State  of,  119. 
Maitlaud,  C.  W.,  443. 
Mamei,  Isthmus  of  Panama,  237. 
Mammoth  Tree  Grove,  Cal.,  254. 
Manchester,  N.  H.,  103. 
Manhattan,  Kansas,  232. 
Mankato,  Minn.,  217. 
Manomin.  Minn..  216. 
Mansfield  Mountain,'  Vt.,  115. 
Maquoqueta  River,  la.,  206. 
Maripoi^a,  Cal.,  257. 
Marshall,  ]\Iich.,  229. 
Marshfield,  Mass.,  91. 
Martha's  Vineyard,  91. 
Marysville,  Cal.,  244. 
Marysville  Buttes,  245. 
Massachusetts,  State  of,  80. 
Matachin,  Isthmus  of  Panama,  238. 
Mauch  Chunk,  Pa.,  166. 
Maumce  River,  Ind.,  lyO. 
Meadville,  Pa.,  IW. 
Medford,  Mass.,  94. 
Melrose,  Mass.,  96. 


INDEX. 


Memphremagog:  Lake,  Vt.,  117. 
Meuasha,  Wis.,  2:23. 
Mendota,  Miun.,  215. 
Menominee,  Wis.,  225. 
Meriden,  Conn.,  72. 
Mesilla,  N.  M.,  27-4. 
Miami  River,  O.,  173. 
Michigan,  State  of,  226. 
Middleboro,  Mass.,  91. 
Middlebury,  Vt.,  IIG. 
Middle  States,  the,  2 
Middletown,  Conn.,  72. 
Middletown.  Pa.,  156. 
Milford,  Conn.,  71. 
Milford,  Del.,  136. 
Milwaukee,  Wis.,  221. 
Minneapolis,  Minn.,  214. 
Minnehaha  Falls,  Minn.,  214. 
Jlinnesota,  State  of,  210. 
Minnesota  River,  210. 
Mississippi  River,  428. 
Missouri,  State  of,  199. 
Missouri  River,  200. 
Falls  of  the,  282. 
Mokelumne  Hill,  Cal.,  254. 
Monongahela,  Pa.,  139. 
Monroe  City,  Mich.,  228. 
Montana  Territory,  282. 
Monterey,  Cal..  262. 
Monticello,  Wash.  Ter.,  269. 
Montmorenci  Falls,  Canada,  436. 
Moutpelier,  "Vt.,  114. 
Montreal,  Canada,  437. 
Moosehead  Lake,  Me.,  124. 
Moosetocknoguntic  Lake,  Me.,  134. 
Morristown,  N.  J.,  131. 
Moixnt  Ascutney,  Vt.,  117. 
Mount  Auburn  Cemetery,  88. 
Mount  Desert  Island,  125. 
Mount  Holyoke,  Mass.,  97. 
Mount  Hope,  Narraganset  Bay,  E.  I., 
Mount  Independence,  Lake  Champlain,  50. 
Mount  Katahdin,  Me.,  124. 
Mount  Lafayette,  N.  H.,  109. 
Mount  Mansfield,  Vt.,  115. 
Mount  St.  Vincent,  Hudson  River,  &4. 
Mount  Shasta,  Cal.,  246. 
Mount  Toby,  Mass.,  99. 
Mount  Tom,  Mass.,  97. 
Mount  Warner,  Mass.,  99. 
Murph;^'s,  Cal.,  254. 
Muscatine,  la.j  208. 
Muskingum  River,  O.,  173. 


Nahant,  Mass.,  90. 

Nantasket  Beach,  Mass.,  90. 

Nanticoke,  Pa.,  168. 

Nantucket,  Mass.,  91. 

Narraganset  Bay,  R.  I.,  76. 

Narrowsburg,  N.  Y.  and  Erie  R.  E.,  54. 

Nashua,  N.  H.,  94. 

Napa,  Cal.,  253. 

Nauvoo,  111.,  196. 

Navassa  (voyage  N.  Y.  to  Aspinveall),  237. 

Nazareth,  Pa.,  166. 

Nebraska  City,  Neb.,  234. 

Nebraska  Territory,  233. 

Neenah,  Wis.,  22^3, 

Nephi,  Utah,  279. 

Neponset,  Mass.,  91. 

Nesqually,  Wash.  Ter.,  269. 

Nevada,  State  of,  275. 

Nevada,  Cal.,  249. 


New  Albany,  Ind.,  184. 

New  Almaden,  Cal.,  259. 

Newark,  N.  J.,  127. 

Newark,  O.,  178. 

Newark,  Del.,  135. 

New  Bedford,  Mass.,  92. 

New  Britain,  Conn.,  72. 

New  Brunswick,  452. 

New  Brunswick,  N.  J.,  127. 

Newburg,  N.  Y.,  39. 

Newbury,  N.  H.,  105. 

Newbury,  Vt.,  105. 

Newburyport,  Mass.,  95. 

Newcastle,  Del.,  136. 

New  England  States,  the,  2. 

New  Hamburg,  N.  Y.,  39. 

New  Hampshire,  State  of,  101. 

New  Hampton,  N.  J.,  131. 

New  Haven,  Conn.,  71. 

New  Haven,  Hartford  &  Springfield  Route,  70. 

New  Jersey,  State  of,  126. 

New  Jersey  R.  R.,  126. 

New  Lebanon  Springs,  N.  Y.,  43. 

New  London,  Conn.,  74. 

New  Madrid,  Mo.,  205. 

New  Mexico,  Territory  of,  273. 
Routes,  274. 

Newport,  R.  I.,  78. 

Newport,  Me.,  123. 

Newport,  Penn.,  157. 

New  Ulm,  Minn.,  217. 

New  Windsor,  N.  Y.,  39. 

New  York,  State  of,  5. 

New  York  City,  6. 
Map  of,  6. 

Art  Societies,  etc.,  17. 
Artists'  Studios,  17. 
Cemeteries,  20. 
Charitable  Institutions,  18. 
Churches,  etc.,  19. 
Conveyances,  10. 
Ferries,  10. 

First-class  Business  Houses,  23. 
Harlem,  28. 
High  Bridge, 
Historical  Sketch,  7. 
Hotels,  etc.,  7. 
Landmarks  of  the  Past,  22. 
Libraries,  16. 

Literary  Institutions,  etc.,  15. 
Manhattanville, 
Markets,  20. 

Places  of  Amusement,  11. 
Public  Buildings,  14. 
Public  Parks  and  Squares,  12. 
Routes  from,  29-69. 
New  York,  Wash.  Ter.,  269. 
Niagara  Falls.    Niagara  River,  the  approach, 
Goat  Island,  the  Rapids,  Chapin's  Island, 
the  Toll  Gate,  the  Cave  of  the  Winds,  Lu- 
na Island,   Sam  Patch's    Leap,   Biddle's 
Stairs,  Prospect  Tower,  the  Horse-shoe 
Fall,  Gull  Island,  Grand  Island,  the  Whirl- 
pool, the  Devil's  Hole,  Chasm  Tower,  the 
Suspension  Bridge,  Bender's   Cave,  the 
Clifton  House,  Table  Rock,  Termination 
Rock,    the    Museum,    Burning    Spring, 
Brock's  Monument,  58-63. 
Northampton,  Mass.,  98. 
North  Conway,  N.  H.,  107. 
Northumberland,  Pa.,  162. 
Norwalk,  Conn.,  77. 
Norwich,  Conn.,  74. 
Norwich,  Vt.,  105. 


INDEX. 


Norwich  Route,  New  York  to  Boston,  etc.,  48. 
Nova  Scotia,  454. 

Coai<t  of,  454. 

Rivers,  Lakes,  and  Bays,  454. 
Nyack,  Hudson  River,  34. 


Oakland,  Cal.,  242. 
Oakland,  Pa.,  307. 
Oconto,  Wis.,  224. 
Ogden,  Utah,  279. 
Ogdensburg,  N.  Y.,  442. 
Ohio,  State  of,  172. 

Rivers,  173. 
Ohio  River,  Description  and  Distances,  424. 

Map  of,  424. 
Oil  City,  Pa.,  1&4. 
Oil  Cret^k,  Pa..  163. 
Olympia,  Wash.  Ter.,  269. 
Omaha  City,  Neb.,  233. 
Oregon,  State  of,  265. 
Oregon  City,  267. 
Oroville,  Cal.,  246. 
Osage  River,  Mo.,  201,  233 
Oshkosh,  Wis.,  223. 
Oswego,  N.  Y.,  442. 
Ottawa  City,  C,  W.,  441. 
Ottawa  River,  Canada,  439. 
Ottawa,  111.,  196. 
Otter  Creek  Falls,  Vt,  116. 
Overland  Mail  Line,  287. 
Owatonna,  ^linn.,  217, 
Owego,  N.  Y.  and  Erie  E.  R.,  55. 


Pacific  City,  Wash.  Ter..  269. 
Palatine  Bridge,  N.  Y.,  56. 
Palisades,  on  the  Hudson,  32. 
Palmyra,  Mo.,  204. 
Panama,  238. 
Paoli,  Pa.,  156. 
Parkesburg,  Pa.,  156. 
Passamaquoddy  Bay,  124. 
Paterson,  N.  J.,  131. 
Pawnee,  Kansas,  231. 
Pay  son,  Utah,  299, 
Peekskill,  Hudson  River,  36. 
Penn's  Cove,  Wash.  Ter.,  270. 
Pennsylvania,  State  of,  138. 

Oil  Region  of,  163. 
Pennsylvania  Central  Railway,  155. 
Penobscot  River,  Me.,  124. 
Pensaukec,  Wis.,  225. 
Peoria,  111.,  195. 
Peru,  111.,  196. 
Peshtigo,  Wis,,  225. 
Petaluma,  Cal.,  251. 
Petenwell  Peak,  Wis.,  220, 
Petersburg,  Pa.,  158. 
Philadelphia  and  Vicinity,  139. 

Map  of,  139. 
Philadelphia  to  Baltimore,  134. 
Philadelphia,  Wilmington  &  Baltimore  R.  R,, 

134. 
Philadelphia  to  Pittsburg  and  the  West,  155. 
Phillips's  Beach,  Mass.,  90. 
Piermont,  Hudson  River,  34. 
Pilot  Knob,  Mo.,  199. 
Pittsburg,  Pa.,  159. 
Pittsfield,  Mass.,  71-93. 
Pittsfield,  Me.,  122. 
Placerville,  Cal.,  250. 
Plainfield,  Conn.,  75. 
Plainlield,  N.  J.,  130. 
vi 


Plains  of  Abraham,  Quebec,  447, 
Plantagenet  Springs,  Canada,  436. 
Platte  River,  Mo.,  201. 
Plattesmouth,  Neb.,  234. 
Plattsburg,  N.  Y.,  57. 
Plj'mouth,  Mass.,  91. 
Plvmouth,  N.  H.,  107. 
Pomt  Judith,  R.  I.,  79. 

Point  Mala,  voyage  from  Panama  to  San  Fran- 
cisco, 239. 
Point  Sacnficios,  California,  239. 
Point  Shirley,  Mass.,  90. 
Pompanoosuc.  Vt.,  105. 
Portage  City,  Wis.,  224. 
Portchester,  N.  Y.,  71. 
Port  Clinton,  Pa.,  160, 
Porte  des  Morts,  Wis.,  225. 
Port  Kent,  Lake  Champlain,  50. 
Port  Jervis,  N.  Y.  &  Erie  R.  R.,  53. 
Portland,  Me.,  120. 
Portland,  Oregon,  267. 
Port  Penn,  Del.,  137. 
Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  103. 
Portsmouth  Grove,  Mass.,  92, 
Port  Townsend,  Wash.  Ter.,  269. 
Potsdam,  N.  Y.,  67. 
Pottstown,  Pa.,  160. 
Pottsville,  Pa.,  161. 
Poughkeepsie,  N.  Y.,  39, 
Prairie  du  Chien,  Wis.,  224. 
Prescott,  Arizona  Ter.,  271. 
Prescott,  C.  W.,  441. 
Presque  Isle,  Pa.,  162. 
Princeton,  N.  J.,  128. 
Profile  Lake,  N.  H.,  ICO. 
Profile  Mountain,  N.  H.,  109. 
Providence  and  Vicinity,  R.  I.,  76. 
Provo,  Utah  Ter.,  179. 
Puget  Sound,  263-'69. 
Pyramid  Lake,  Utah  Ter.,  278. 


Quakake,  Pa.,  166. 
Quebec,  C.  E.,  446, 

Vicinity,  447. 
Queenstown,  N,  Y.,  63. 
Quincy,  ISIass.,  91, 
Quincy,  lU.,  195. 


Racine,  Wis.,  224. 

Rah^niy,  N.  J.,  127. 

Ramapo  Valley,  N.  Y.  and  Erie  R.  R.,  53. 

Randolph,  Mass.,  91. 

Reading,  Mass..  95. 

Reading,  Pa.,  160. 

Red  Bank,  N.  J.,  130. 

Red  Blufl',  Cal.,  246. 

Red  Mountain,  N.  H.,  106. 

Red  Wing,  Minn.,  217, 

Red  Wood  Falls,  Minn.,  218. 

Reno.  Pa.,  1(54. 

Rhinebcck  Landing,  N.  Y.,  40. 

Rhode  Island,  State  of,  76. 

Richfield  Springs,  N.  Y.,  69. 

Richmond,  lud.,  185. 

Rideau  Falls,  C.  E.,  436. 

Rochester,  N.  Y.,  57. 

Rochester,  31inn.,  218. 

Rockaway,  L.  I.,  30. 

Rocklord",  111.,  197. 

Rock  Island,  111.,  196. 

Rockland  Lake,  Hudson  River,  85. 

Rock  River,  111.,  187. 


INDEX. 


Bocky  Point,  R.  I.,  TT. 
Kogers'  Slide,  Lalce  George,  49. 
RoSdout,  on  the  Hmlson,  40. 
Kouse's  Point,  N.Y.,  51. 
Euby  City,  Idalio  Ter.,  280. 
Rulo,  Neb.,  2S4. 
Rutland,  Vt.,  115. 


St.  Albans,  \  t.,  llo. 
St.  Andrews,  N.  B.,  4o3. 
St  Anne's  Falls,  Canada,  436. 
St.  Authonv,  Minn.,  213. 

Falls  of,  213. 
Ft  Catharines,  C.  W.,  444. 
St.  Charles  City,  Mo..  204 
St.  Croix  Falls,  Minn.,  215. 
St.  Genevieve,  Mo.,  2(w. 

St.  Helens.  Oregon,  21.7. 

St.  John,  N.  B.,  453. 

St.  John's  River,  In.  B.,  4o-i. 

St.  Joseph,  Mo    204. 

St.  Lawrence  River,  440. 

St.  Leon  Springs,  O.  1^.,  4oU. 

St.  Louis,  Mo.,  20L 

St.  Louis  River,  Wis.,  220. 

St.  Mary,  Straits  of,  44o. 

St.  Paul,  Minn.,  212. 

St.  Peter,  Minn.,  217. 

St  Reels,  Canada,  441. 

Sabbatti)ay  Point,  Lake  George,  48. 

Sacketts  Harbor,  N.  i .,  44X,. 

Saco,  Me.,  121. 
Saco  River,  Me.,  125. 
Sacramento  City,  Cal.,  244. 
Sacramento  River,  Cal.,  2^. 
Saddle  Mountain,  Mass.,  44. 

Sagueuay  River,  Cl!..,  My. 
Salamanca,  N.  Y.,  5o. 
Salem,  Mass.,  95. 
Salem,  Oregon,  207. 

Salisbury,  U«l-.l^^-        _ 
Salisbury  Beach,  Mass.,  95. 
Salisbury  Lakes,  Conn,  74. 
Salt  River,  Ky.,  41d._ 
San  Andreas,  Cal.,  2o4. 
San  Diego,  Cal.,  261. 
Sandusky,  O . ,  177. 

San  Francisco,  Voyage  to  from  ^.1., 
San  Francisco,  Cal.,  2*0. 
Map  of,  240. 

Sangamon  River,  111.,  188. 

San'jose,  Cal.,  259 

San  Pablo  Bay,  Cal.,  237. 

Santa  Barbara,  Cal.,  261. 

Santa  Cruz  Cal.,  202. 

Santa  Fe,N.M.,  273. 

Saranac  Lakes,  N.  Y.,  54. 

Saratoga  Springs,  N.  1.,  ■«). 

Saugerties,  N.  Y.,  40. 

Sault  Ste.  Marie,  445. 

Savin  Hill,  Mass.,  91. 

Schenectady,  N.  \ ._,  56. 

Schooley's  Mountain,  N.J . 

Schuylkill  River,  Pa.,  139. 

Schuylkill  Haven,  Pa.,  161. 

Scioto  River,  0, 172. 

Scotch  Plains,  N.  J.,  130. 
Scranton,  Pa.,  169. 
Seabrook,  Mass.,  95. 
Sealord,  Del.,  137. 
Seattle,  Wash.  Ter.,  261. 
Sebago  Pond,  Me^  124 


132. 


236,340. 


Seneca  FaUs,  N.  Y.,  57. 


Seneca  Lake,  N.  Y.,  55. 

Shaker  Village,  N.Y.,  68. 

Shakopee,  Minn.,  216. 

Sharon  Springs,  JN.  1.,  bb. 

Shasta  City,  Cal    247. 

Shawauegan  Falls,  C.  Ji.,  4db. 

Sheboygan,  Wis.,  22-1. 

Sheffield,  Conn.,  74. 

Shickshinney,  Fa.,  168. 

Shrewsbury,  N.  J.,  130; 

Sierra  Nevada  Mountains,  Cal.,  ,i4». 

Silver  City,  Nev.,  276. 

Silver  City,  I.  T.,  280. 

Sing  Sing,  N.  Y.,  35.  _ 

SioSx  River  and  Rapids,  Mmn.,  215. 

Skeneatele s ,  N .  Y . ,^  57. 

Skeneateles  Lake,  xn.  i.,  57. 

Skowhegan,  Me.,  122. 

Skunk  River,  Iowa,  206. 

Somerset,  Mass.,  92. 

Somerville,  Mass.,  94,  9o. 

Somerville,  N.  J.,  131. 

Souora,  Cal.,  256. 

South  Abiugton,  Mass.,  91. 

South  Amboy,  N.  J.,  129. 

South  Berwick,  Me.,  122. 

South  Braintree,  Mass.,  91. 

Springfield,  Mass.,  93. 

Springfield,  O.,  178. 

i^Sis^ii^t-The Caledonia  thePlan- 
tagenet,  the  St.  Leon,  and  St.  Catha- 
rines.   Routes  thither. 

Springs  in  New  York,  68. 

Squani  Lake,  N.  H.,  106. 

Stamford,  Conn.,  71. 

Stantop,  Del.,  135 

|g[.SS?Siu^:N.Y.andErieR.B.,54. 

Staten  Island,  N.Y,  28. 

Steilacoom,  Wash.  Ter.,  269. 

Stillwater,  Minn.,  217. 

Stockbridge,  Mass.,  74. 

Stockton,  Utah,  279. 

Stockton,  Cal.,  253.  +..  TSnatmi   81 

Stonington  Route  from  N.  Y.  to  Boston,  »i. 

Stonington,  Conn.,  75.  , 

Stony  Point,  Hudson  Rivei,  3b. 

Stoughton,  Mass.,  91. 

Straits  of  Carqumez,  Cal.,  244. 

Strawberry  Island,  Wis.,  22o. 

Sturgeon  Bay,  Wis.,  225. 

Sugar  Loaf  Mountain,  Mass.,  99, 124. 

Sunbury,  Pa.,  162.  ^ 

Superior  City,  Mmn.  44o 

Susquehanna  River,  lo9,  Ibl. 

Swampscott,  Mass.,  95. 

Syracuse,  N.  Y.,  57. 


Tacony,  N.  J.,  129. 
Tahlac  Mountain,  Cal.,  251. 
Tappan,  N.  Y.,  34. 
Tarrytown,  on  the  Hudson,  34. 
Taugkanic  Mountains.,  Mass.,  74. 
Taunton,  Mass.,  92. 
Taylor's  Falls,  Minn.,  217. 

Terre  Haute,  Ind.,  184. 

Territories,  U.  S.,  the  Population  of,  etc.  2. 

Thompsonville,  Conn.,  73. 

Thousand  Isles,  the,  440. 

Ticonderoga,  Fort,  N.  Y.,  48. 

Tiffin,  O.,  178. 

Tintou  Falls,  N.  J.,  130. 

vu 


INDEX. 


Titusville,  Pa.,  165. 
Tiverton,  Mass.,  92. 
Tivoli,  N.  y.,  40. 
Toboga,  239. 
Toboquilla,  239. 
Toledo,  O.,  1T7. 
Topeka,  Kansas,  232. 
Toronto,  Canada,  443. 
Trenton  Falls,  N.  Y.,  07. 
Trenton,  N.  J.,  128. 
Troy,  N.  Y.,  44. 
Tuckelata,  N.  M.,  274. 
Tyrone  City,  Pa.,  158. 

Umbagog  Lake,  Me.,  124. 

'•  Undercliti","  on  the  Hudson,  38. 

Union  College,  Schenectady,  N.  Y.,  5b. 

"Union  Pacitic  R.  R.,  287. 

United  States— Extent  and  Population,  1. 

History,  Government,  etc.,  3. 
Utah  Territory,  277. 

Routes,  277. 
Utica,  N.  Y.,  56. 

Valencia,  N.  M.,  274. 
YalleyFalls,  R.  I.,79. 
Valley  Forge,  Pa.,  160. 
Valley  of  Wyoming,  Pa.,  166. 
Verdrieteges  Hook,  N.  Y^,  35. 
Vermilion,  111.,  188. 
Vermont  Central  Railway,  114. 
Vermont,  State  of,  114. 
Verplanck's  Point,  N.  Y".,  35,  36. 
Victoria,  V.  I.,  263,  270. 
Vii-ginia  City,  Montana  Ter.,  283. 
Virginia,  Nevada,  275. 
Visalia,  Cal.,  260. 

Wabash  River,  Ind.,  187. 

Wabashaw,  Minn.,  217. 

Wabassport,  Wash.  Ter.,  269. 

Walla-Walla,  Oregon,  267. 

Walled  Banks  of  the  Ausable,  N.  Y.,  51. 

iWallingford,  Conn.,  72. 

Svalpole,  N.  H.,  104. 

Waltham,  Mass.,  96. 

Wap^ipinicon  River,  Iowa,  206. 

Wapwollopen,  Pa.,  168. 

Warren,  Pa.,  165. 

Washington  Territory,  269. 

Washoe  City,  Nev.,  276. 

Waterbury,  Conn.,  75. 

Waterbury,  Vt.,  115. 

Watertowu,  Mass.,  96. 

Watertown,  Wis.,  224. 

Waterville,  Me.,  122. 

Watliug's  Island,  236. 

Waukegan,  111.,  197. 

Waukesha,  Wis.,  224. 

Weehawken,  N.  J.,  28. 

Wells  River,  Vt.,  106. 

Wenham,  Mass.,  95. 

West  Cambridge,  Mass.,  96. 

West  Campton,  N.  II.,  107. 

Western  States,  the,  2. 
Population  of,  etc.,  2. 

Westlield,  Mass.,  93. 

Westminster,  Vt.,  104. 
Weston,  Mo.,  204. 
West  Point,  N.  Y.,  37. 
viii 


^: 


Wethersfield,  Conn.,  73. 
Wheatland,  near  Lancaster,  Pa.,  156. 
Whidby's  Island.  Puget  Sound,  270. 
Whitehall,  Pa.,  156. 
Whitehall,  N.  Y.,  49. 
White  Mountains,  N.  H.,  101. 
Map,  notes,  etc.,  101-103. 
The  Ammonoosuc  River,  112. 
The  Basin,  110. 
Cannon  Mountain,  109. 
The  Crvstal  Falls,  113. 
The  Devirs  Den,  112. 
Dixville  Hills,  113. 
Eagle  Clitf,  109. 
Echo  Lake,  110. 
The  Flume,  110. 
The  Frauconia  Hills,  108. 
Great  Notch,  112. 
Hotels,  108. 
Mount  Lafayette,  109. 
Mt.  Washington,  110. 
Oakes's  Gulf,  112.  .    „ 

The  "  Old  Man  of  the  Mountain,"  or  Pro- 
file Rock,  110. 
The  Pool,  113. 
The  Profile  Lake,  110. 
The  Silver  Cascade,  112. 
Tuckerman's  Ravine,  111. 
■  The  Willev  House,  109. 
White  Plains,  N.  Y.,  45. 
White  River  Junction,  105. 
White  Water,  Wis.,  224. 
Wilkesbarre,  Pa.,  167. 
Willamette  River,  Or.,  266. 

Valley,  Or.,  266. 
Williams  College,  Mass.,  74. 
Willinmsport,  Pa.,  162. 
Williamstown.  Mass.,  74. 
Willimantic.  Conn.,  75. 
Willoughby  Lake,  Vt.,  117., 
Wilmington,  Del.,  134. 
Wilmington,  Mass.,  95. 
Winchester,  Mass.,  94. 
Windsor,  Vt.,  105. 
Winnebago  Lake,  219. 
Wiunipisaukce  Lake,  106. 
Winona,  Minn.,  218. 
Winooski  Valley  and  River,  Vt.,  115. 
Wiusted,  Conn.,  75. 
Wisconsin  River,  219. 
Wisconsin.  State  of,  219. 
Woburn,  Mass.,  94. 
Wolfe's  Cove,  Quebec,  448. 
Woonsocket,  R.  I.,  79. 
Worcester,  Mass.,  93. 
Wrightstown,  Wis.,  223. 
Wyandotte  Cave,  Ind.,  181. 
Wyoming  Valley,  Pa.,  166. 


Yankton,  Dacotah  Tor.,  286. 
Yellowstone  River,  201. 
Yonkers,  Hudson  River,  33. 
York,  Pa.,  lU. 
Yo-Scmite  Valley,  Cal.,  257. 
You"-hioghcnv  River,  Pa,,  139. 
Ypsilanti,  Mich.,  228. 
Yreka,  Cal.,  aiS. 


Zanesville,  O.,  17. 
Zcnia,  O.,  178. 


D.  APPLETOI^  &  OOMPAI^Y^S 

PUBLICATIONS  FOR 


•♦• 


APPLETONS'   HAND-BOOK    OP   AMERICAN 

TRAVEL,  being  a  Guide,  by  Railway,  Steamboat,  and  Stage,  to  the  Cities, 
Towns,  Battle-fields,  Waterfalls,  Mountains,  Rivers,  Lakes,  Hunting  and  Fish- 
ing Grounds,  Watering  Places,  Summer  Resorts,  and  all  Scenes  and  Objects  of 
importance  and  Interest  in  the  United  States  and  British  Provmccs.  Edited 
by  Edward  H.  Hall.  Accompanied  by  Maps  of  all  Parts  of  the  Country, 
and  the  principal  Rivers. 


A 


PPLETONS'     OFFICIAL     ILLUSTRATED 

RAILWAY  GUIDE,  contaimng  the  Time-Tables  of  the  Railways  of  the 
United  States  and  Canadas ;  also,  One  Hundred  Railway  Maps,  representing 
the  principal  Railways  of  the  Country ;  their  Stations,  Distances,  and  Con- 
nections. Important  Instructions  to  Railway  Travellers  in  reference  to  Time- 
Tables,  Checking  Baggage,  and  Purchasing  Tickets ;  together  with  monthly 
account  of  Railways  and  their  Progress,  etc.,  etc.  Compiled  by  G.  P. 
Thomas.  Published  semi-monthly,  under  the  supervision  of  the  Railway 
Companies.     1  voL,  860  pages. 


THE  GEEAT  WEST :  Kailway,  Steamboat,  and 

Stage  Guide  and  Hand-Book,  for  Travellers,  Miners,  and  Emigrants  to  the 
Western,  Northwestern,  and  Pacific  States  and  Territories.  With  a  Map  of 
the  best  Routes  to  the  Gold  and  Silver  Mines.  By  Edwakd  H.  Hall.  One 
volume,  12mo.     Paper  covers,  price  50  cents  ;  cloth,  price  |L00. 


For  Sale  hy  all  I^oolzsellers, 

15 


OALENDAE  FOE  1867-' 

68. 

1867. 

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Opposite  Bond  Street. 

El>^VAlftI>  MElIt.,"" 

Branch  of  156  and  153  Fulton  Street, 


i  T^¥  m  A  M  T, 

No,  601  Broadivay, 


¥ 

h 


ISTET^    YORK. 

Late  with  Berry,  No.  9  Broad  Street. 


THE  TIIAVETXER'S  MEMOIUNDIIM. 


%*  The  traveller  is  respectfully  solicited  to  note  all  errors 
find  omissions  wliicli  he  may  discover  in  tbis  woi-k,  and  nny  new 
facts  of  interest, — and  to  send  sucli  memoranda  to  tlie  Editor, 
care  of  the  Publishers.  Such  communications  must  be  accom- 
panied by  the  name  and  address  of  the  writer. 


THE    TKAYELLER's    MEMORANDUM. 


THE    traveller's    MEMORANDUM.  3 


THE   TKAVELLEU'S    3!  EMORAXDUM. 


THE   travellers'    MEMORANDUM. 


i 


0 


THE    TIIAYELLKIIS    MEMORANDUM; 


THE  traveller's  memorandum. 


g.  THE   TKAYELLEk's   MEMORANDUM. 


nil-:  traveller's  memouandum. 


9 


10  THE    traveller's    MEMORANDUM. 


THE    traveller's    MEMORANDUM.  11 


V. 


22  THE    TRAVELLER  S    MEMORANDUM 


do,^^Xj1?ximc  o  :e^:e3. 


BARNUM  &  CO,   Proprietors. 


16 


SI. 


Sli 


G 


ALLERIES  OF  1  HOTOGRAPHY, 


NEW  YORK  AND  BALTIMORE. 


NSW  YORK, 
Corner  5th  Avenue  and  17tli  St. 


BA,LTtl!i!t©Rg, 
207  Baltimore  Street. 


^n   interesting   Collection   of  OPic litres  always  on  J^TiJ^^ 

IW  Photography  in  all  its  Branches. 


^ 


OANFIELD,  BROTHER  &  CO., 


DEALERS   IN 


ilillM 


weir^ 


iSKjjr 


^^f 


II 


» 


SILVER  PLATED  GOODS  OF  BEST  STYLES; 

RICH    I>^RIS    IFJ^NCY    GrOODS; 

Clocks,  Bronzes,  Vases,  Fans,  Opera  CSasses,  &c. 

ALSO, 

MILITAEY  GOODS  FOE  AEMY  AND  NAVY, 

229  Baltimore  Street,  BALTIMORE. 


COLEMAN'S 


f  Wf 


SALT 


9 


R  B,  C0LE]\1A.N, 


FOISMEISI^Y 


rJEJSFNSYL  VAN  I A     A  VJEJSTUJE, 


WASHINGTON  CITY. 


Tliis  fine  cstablisliracnt,  with  accommodations  for  three  hundred  persons,  has 
been  newly  fitted  and  furnished.  Visitors  will  find  it  a  most  desirable  Hotel  to 
Bojourn  at. 


JaiSJpJIJLi     M  tl  y  o  m 


Corner  F  and  14tli  Streets, 


WASHlilCTOf*!,  O.  C- 


C.  C.  WILLARD, 

Many  years  Proprietor  Ilygeia  Hotel^  Old  Point.  Comfort,  Fiat., 


i)¥ii£ 


i^iciEsinynonsrr),  "V.A.. 


J.  i.  CAimiNGTON  &  CO,,  Froprietors. 


This  leading;  fashionable  Hotel  has  been  newly  and  elegantly  furnished, 
and  is  now  ready  to  extend  a  "  Virginia  welcome"  to  its  patrons. 


WTl 


f'f 


2l      n     r»^^% 


i  i^J) 


A  A  %j/  yj  ^  '^"^  ■ 


^f^^?i   I'^i 


9 


Corner  of  Meeting  and  Queen  Streets, 


CHARLESTON.  S.  C- 


JBuilt  in  1853  and  furnished  equal  to  any  in  the  United  States, 


Entirely  Eefurnished  in  1866. 


JOSEPH  PUKCElLIi,  Proprietor. 


KST^BHiISHKD    IJSr    183S. 


JOHN  K.  RANDALL, 


¥  ¥' 


t 


]il\ 


mUf 


Printer  &  Blank  Book  Manufacturer, 


Jfo.  S  (old  J^o.  44)  JSrOBTH  WATEB  STBEET, 


©6!le,  Ma. 


GOOD, 


"^m 


^rm 


&A^i.^l 


!B     '^,m    !i 


m  11 


AND 


BLANK  BOOK  EIANUFACTURER, 


Corner  Water  and  St.  Francis  Streets^ 


nVtOBILE. 


8 


Bfli] 


nj^^iiJi^^ijO 


V'&m 


> 


Southeast  Corner  Dauphin  and  Royal  Streets. 

The  umiersigned  will  keep  constantly  on  hand  and  for  sale, 


I'l/ w;  B^y^ 


yiaSi 


JJ 


K\"" 


•tfJlTO 


y 


rip 


z^'  HkM 


.CHl^ 


J? 


COXSISTIXG    OF 

LAW,  MEDICAL,  THEOLOGICAL,  SCHOOL,  AND  MISCELLANEOUS  BOOKS 

OF    THE   LATEST   EDITION. 


STATIONERY, 

Consisting  of  PAPER  and  ENVELOPES  of  every  description,  size,  and  color.    Also,  a  full 

assortment  of 

B  L  A  W  K     BOOKS. 

INKS— Black,  Bhie  and  Eed,  SEALING  WAX- Eed,  Bine  and  Fancy.  Fairchild's  GOLD 
PENS.  Lead  PENCILS  and  Steel  PENS,  of  various  makes.  WRAPPING  PAPER  and  TWINE. 
Photographic  ALBUMS  from  50  cents  to  .$50.    Photographic  PICTURE  FRAMES,  25  cents  to  $1. 

School  Books  and  Pocket  Books. 

POCKET  KNIVES.    Gold  and  Silver  PENCI L  CASES.    PORTFOLIOS,  WRITING  DESKS,  &c. 

Together  with  a  fine  assortment  of 


fallow    €## 


ALL  OF  WHICH  WILL  BE  SOLD  AT  THE  LOWEST  CASH  PRICES. 

F.  TITCOMBf  Southeast  corner  Dauphin  and  Royal  Streets,  Mobile* 


52  Dauphin  Street,  Mobile, 


WHOLESALE  AND  EETAIL  DEALERS  IN 


G 


»ttlS 


tlsJLlL^, 


Ifl 


MUSIO  AND  MUSICAL  INSTBy^ENTS. 


FmlDlislxers'    Trade    Lists    "Wanted, 

9 


DENEOHAUD'S 

Ilf    MM    SlttCS 

17  NOMTH  MOTAL  STUEET, 

(Opposite  the  Battle  House,)  (VtQSIL^j 


^SBTAWKA^^     i^iff»    ^1 


BRANCH    HOUSE: 

CORNER    GROVE    AND  WALNUT    STS.,  VICKSBTJRG,  MISS. 


Ed.    r>E]SrECm?LXJr>,    I'roprietor. 


Private  Mootus  for  Private  Parties  in  Both  Houses, 

LUNCH  AT  ALL  HOURS  FOR  TRAYELLERS. 


tAUIia  HOWSS, 


Mulberry  Street,  Macon,  Ga. 


GEO.  M.  LOGAN,  Proprietor. 


Omnibus  and  Baggage  Wagon  at  each  Train  to  convey  Passen- 
gers and  Baggage  to  the  House. 

FREE  OMNIBUS  TO  AND  FROM  THE  RAILROAD. 

10 


^if iaaE¥ 


t#aiwsT 


J.  W.  BURKE  &  CO., 


ACON,   Ga., 

Have  cstablislied  in  this  City 
A    FIRST-CLASS     BOOK     STORB, 

Where  they  keep  on  hand  and  sell  as  low  as  possible,  FOR  CASH  ONLY, 

ALL    KINDS    OF 

SCHOOL,  MSSCELLMEOUS,  RELIGIOUS,  JWENILE,  ANB  SABBATH  SCHOOL 


FOOLSCAP,  LETTER,  AX©  KOTE  PAPERS;  INKS,  PENS,  AND  ALL  DESCRIPTIONS 

OF  PLAIN  AND  FANCY  STATIONERY. 

Fliotograpli  Albnms  in  great  lariety,  Card  Pliotogmplis  of  Generals,  Works  of  Art,  &€. 

SPECIAL  AGENTS  EOE  SALE  OP  PUBLICATIONS   OF 


J».  APPLETON  &  CO., New  York, 

M,  S.  BARNES  &  CO., " 


SHELDON  &  CO., Now  York, 

IVISON,  PHINNEY,  BLAKEMAN  &  CO.      " 


They  also  have  an  extensive 

Kttk  aai  Iti  PriatlBg  H$i§e, 

Where  all  kinds  of  Vt'ork  can  be  done.     BINDESTG  in  every  style  neatly  executed. 

^^  Give  them  a  call. 


1!  'Lll 


r2 


ItfiSs® 


is&ai£is!i«?6 


,5^41 


WASHINGTON     BLOCK, 


LAW,   MEDIOAL,   SI 


W^ia 


AND    MISCELLANEOUS 


»  r%  #1  ir  vO 

rf  ij  iJ  Ik  r^ 


BLANK  BOOKS,  STATIONERY, 


awmi 


AND 


11 


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13 


BOYS'    CLOTHING    EMPORIUM. 


PARIS,  LONDON,  AND  NEW  YORK  FASHIONS. 


14 


SOUTHERN    CLOTHING    ESTABLISHMENT. 


L.   'W.    LYOIsTS    &    CO., 


lEW  ORLEANS,  LA. 


WHOLESALE    DEPARTMENT, 
13  1     and    13  3     C  O  M  M  O  JST    STIiEET. 

BETAIL    DEPARTMENT, 

[26f  28  and  30  St.  Charles  Street,  corner  Common, 


"t 


p  (P  B^ 


aim' 


1"  W'  '^ 

1 .»?  ru  k 


m 


«l 


■:>i^\     ^jjA*    9 


FUKNISHIlSrG  GOODS, 
Shirts,  Trunks,  TravelBIng  Bags,  Valises, 


TJM:BREIL.11.^S,    T^^^TEI^-IPnOOin    GtOODS,    &c.,    &c. 


MAHUFACTOEY  OVEK  STOHES. 


;4  targe  assortment  of  JFrench,  ^yigllsh,  German,  and  cimeri- 

can  ^iece  Goods.    Zatest  styles,  sieitabte  io  ttte 

seaso92s,  always  on  hand. 

Clothing  made  to  order  in  the  most  durable  manner  apd  approved  styles,  with 
despatch. 

L.  "W.  LYONS  &  CO.,  New  Orleans. 
15 


,f  e  #&ais  a©f  1& 


Magazine,  between  Gravier  and  Natchez  Sts., 


iw  ©fleams,,  tita 


CHARLES  E.  SMEDES,  Proprietor. 


It  is  newly  furnished  from  the  kitchen  to  the  roof.  Spring  Beds,  Hair  Mat- 
tresses, Linen  Sheeting,  etc.  The  Furniture  and  Table  Ware  all  new,  of  the  latest 
style  and  most  costly  Material.  The  Table  is  furnished  with  every  luxury  the  Market 
affords.  The  Bars  with  Liquors  equal  to  any  used  in  private  families,  and  the  com- 
forts and  pleasures  of  a  home,  as  far  as  possible,  guaranteed  to  its  Guests.  The 
House  itself  may  be  said  to  be  entirely  new  and  fresh.  The  undersigned  will  spare 
neither  labor  nor  expense  to  merit  a  continuance  of  the  liberal  support  with  which  he 
has  thus  far  been  honored. 


16 


€@taM&ais,  (Sa 


HOUBACH  &  KEEE,  Proprietors. 


ly     %^0 


I 


COLUMBUS,    GA., 

SHIVERS,  WYNNE  &  CO,  Proprietors. 

This  House  is  centrally  located,  and  the  proprietors  will  spare  no  pains  or  ex- 
pense for  the  comfort  of  their  guests. 

SIIIVJEBS,  WYNNE  S  CO. 


lY 


17 


N(?a 


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?;5^ 


\* 


e^5« 


II V  y 


o 


3f 
CI 


^ 


"ttt 


MM^'''^ 


■l&^-Si'^-' 


'f©. 


lb;i 


(Late  of  Galt  House,  Louisville,  Ky.) 


CORNER  of  THIRD  and  VINE  STREETS, 


CINCINNATI 


18 


R.  W.  CAKEOLL  &  CO., 

117  West  4th  Street,  CINCINNATI^ 

UBLISHEES,  BOOKSELLEES  &  STATIONERS, 


WHOLESALE  AND  RETAIL, 

KEEP   CONSTANTLY   ON   HAND 

THE    LAEGEST   AND   BEST    ASSORTED    STOCK    OF 

iOOKS  AND  STATIONERY, 

OF  EYERY  IMAGINABLE   KIND,  TO  BE  FOUND  IN  ANY  HOUSE 

IN  THE  MISSISSIPPI  YALLEY. 


By  the  recent  fire  at  Pike's  Opera  House  Building  we  lost  our  entire  stock,  but 
v%  purchased  an  entirely  new,  fresh,  and  well-selected  one,  which  we  offer  at 

KE3!>UCEI>    PHICES, 

I  will  always  sell  on  as  favorable  terms  as  the  market  will  permit,  or  as  any  other 
ase  can  give.     Among  the  great  variety  of  articles  >sold  by 

R.  W.  CARROLL  k  CO., 

ARE    THE    FOLLOWING  : 

SCHOOL    BOOKS 

OE  EVEEY   KIHD,   USED   Ilf   THE  WEST, 

'N  Books,  Medical  Books,  Scientific  Books,  Theological  Books,  Agricultural  Books, 
1  all  Varieties  of  Miscellaneous  Books,  including  Histories,  Biographies,  Travels, 
vels,  and  Illustrated  Works ;  Photograph  Albums  and  Cards,  Plain  and  Fancy 
:ter  and  Note  Paper,  Foreign  and  Domestic  Stationery,  Foolscap  and  Flatcap  Paper, 
Id  Pens,  Inkstands,  Steel  and  Quill  Pens,  Lead  Pencils,  Chess  Boards,  Cribbage 
ards.  Paper  Weights,  Paper  Cutters,  Card  Cases,  Pocket  Books,  Portfohos, 
•iting  Desks,  Pocket  Cutlery, 

Diaries,  Mevjiorandumf  Scraps  and  Blanii  SookSo 

In  fact,  their  stock  includes  every  variety  of  Books  and  Stationery,  v/hich  they 
ite  Dealers  to  examine  before  purchasing,  as  they  are  confident  they  offer  the 
atest  facilities,  and  can  give  satisfaction. 

R.  W.  CARROLL  &  CO., 

117   West   4th   Street,  C3NCINNATI. 

19 


rW)  StST-^ 


1 1 1 '^I^  m 


mIIW^ 


;t.  I^©mte.  M© 


THEOBOME  LAVEILLJE. 


CHAS.  JP.    WABNEB. 


GEO.    W.  FOItn. 


WALKEB  M.   CAJRTEB. 


LAVEILLE,  WAENEE  &  CO. 


PBOPRIETOBS. 


20 


i 


E.  JACCAED  &  CO., 


"WHOLESALE  AND  RETAIL 


if  1  ^  id  I 

WW   JoL  JL   %J  KJt 


Tllf  A  WWW 


9 


^mwni.'h 


9 


AND 


SILVER  WARE  MANUFACTURERS. 


DEALEES    IJT 


FINE  JEWELRY  AND  FANCY  GOODS, 


PLATED  "WAES  AND  CUTLEEY. 


jveilit^ky    goods. 

LINE  OFFICERS,  STAFF,  MEDICAL,  PAYMASTERS,  &  GENERAL  OFFICERS 

United  States  Regyiatson 

SWORDS,  BELTS,  SABBES,  ETC.,  ETC. 

GOLD   TRIMMINGS,  PASSANTS,  WHEATHS,  BUGLES,  BUTTONS, 

REGIMENTAL  FLAGS,  ETC., 

Of  all  qualities,  constantly  on  hand. 

75  Marhle  Building,  Fourth  Street, 

ST,  LOUIS. 

21 


fElliOl 


^  ifnr^ 


Corner  Lake  and  Dearborn  Streets, 


CHICAGO. 


REBUILT  AND  REFURNISHED  IN  1862. 

2/ie  Jjargestf  2)est  Appointed,  a7id  Most  Ceiii7'aUy  I^ocaled 

I^irsi' Class  Motel  in   Chicago; 

HAS  ALL  THE  MODERN  IMPROVEMENTS ; 

NUMEROUS  SUITES  OF  ROOMS,  BATHS,  ETC..  CONNECTED. 

GAGE  a)  JDJIAKE,  Troprietors. 


22 


A.   H.   MILLEE, 

Southeast  Corner  of  Mandolph  and  Clarh  Streets, 

CHICAGO. 


WATCMMS, 

DIA3IOWI>S, 


FINE  GOLI}  JJEWBLHY^ 


A  large  assortment 

OF 

Pair©  Qqih) 
SILYEE-WAEE, 

Constantly  on  hand 

MADE  TO  ORDER 

m 

Any  Stijle, 

Bronze 

Statuettes, 

Marble  Clocks, 


A  fine  Selection 


With  Choice 

Clinrch  and  Opera 

MUSIC, 

OB 

iiivsitiivi        Made  to  Order; 

iipi 

IW    OPERA  GLASSES, 
Writing  Desks, 

CANES, 

&:C. 


Western  Ag-ent  for  the  Celebrated 

PATEK,     PHILIPPE     So     CO. 

These  Watches  are  universally  acknowledged  to  be  the  strongest  and  most  dura- 
ble Fine  Watches  sent  to  America.  They  have  all  the  latest  improvements,  such  as 
Fifth  Seconds,  Independent  or  Double  Time,  Repeating,  Stem- Winding,  or  plain  move- 
ments. 

Fine  Watclies  carefully  repaired  "by  the  most  competent  Workmen, 

FMESENTATION  JBIVELBY, 

of  the  newest  and  richest  patterns,  made  to  order  in  my  own  Factorv  over  the  Store. 

23 


OUR    GJ^OOIDS    ^RE    J^JL.1L,    IFIIi  ST-CL-^S  S. 


DEAPEH,    TAILOE,   AND    GENTS'   FXJENISHER, 


98,  100,  &  102  DEARBORN,  cor.  TTASHINGTON  STREET, 

Midway  between  Trcmont  and  Sherman  Ilouse  and  Post  Office,  CHICAGO. 


WE  WARRANT  EVERYTHING  AS   REPRESENTED. 

24 


^  S9^  £^  &^  ^9l&  ^^  ^9^:I 


s?s?  /i^  ^;?n?  (^  ^^ 


(SHI€A<^@ 


JV. 


This  Hotel  Is  located  on  the  corner  of  CLARK  and 
RANDOLPH  STREETS,  oppofite  Court  House  Square; 
was  firft  opened  to  the  public  In  July,  1861  ;  Is  the  largeft 
Hotel  in  Chicago,  and  one  of  the  fined  in  the  United  States  ; 
and    has    all    the    modern   improvements,  including    a   Paffenger 

Elevator. 

GAGE,  WAITE  &  CO.,  Proprietors. 

25, 


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27 


NATIONAL  STEAM  NAVIGATION  COMPANY, 

(LIMITED.) 


,/',-r,4?^?;J  \ 


Calling  at  Queenstown  to  Land  Passengers. 

SHIPS.  TONS.  C0?iMANDEB8. 

ENGLAND 3,450 Grace. 

SCOTLAND 3,698 Hall. 

VIRGINIA 3,310 Prowse. 

HELVETIA 3,315 Ogilvie. 

THE  QUEEN 3,517 Grogan. 

ERIN 3,310 Cutting. 

PENNSYLVANIA 2,872 Lev/is. 

LOUISIANA 2,166 Thompson. 

DENMARK 3,117 Thompson. 

FRANCE 3,200 (Building). 

GiiiRMANY 3,100 (Building). 

Leaving  T'ier  No.  47  NortJt  lUver  every  SATUJtDAY  and 

Alternate  WEDNESDA  Y. 

These  steamers  were  build  under  inspection,  and  are  classed  Lloyd's  A  1  for 
twenty-one  years.  The  accommodations  for  Passengers  are  unsurpassed,  and  they  are 
supplied  v/ith  every  comfort  and  luxury — with  lower  rates  for  passage  than  any  other 
Line.  The  State  Rooms  open  directly  into  the  Saloon.  Steerage  Passage  includes  an 
unlimited  supply  of  Fresh  Provisions  cooked  and  served  up  by  the  Company's 
Stewards. 

An  experienced  Surgeon  on  each  ship  free  of  charge. 

Cabin  Passage  $100  :    Steerage,  $30.     Payable  in  Currency. 

Steerage  Passage  tickets  to  bring  parties  from  Liverpool  or  Queenstown  for  $40, 
Currency 

Drafts  for  any  amount  issued  on  any  Bank  in  Great  Britian  and  Ireland,  at  the 
lowest  rate. 

The  owners  of  these  vessels  will  not  be  accoimtable  for  specie  or  valuables,  unless 
bills  of  lading,  having  their  value  expressed  thereon,  are  signed  therefor. 

Apply  in  Liverpool  at  the  Office  of  the  National  Steam  Navigation  Company 
(Limited),  W.  B.  Maealister,  Manager,  No  14,  the  Albany,  Old  Ilall-street,  and  57  and 
58  Waterloo-road. 

For  Freight  or  Cabin  Passage  apply  at  the  Office  of  the  Company,  No.  57  Broad- 
way, and  for  Steerage  Tickets  at  the  Passage  Office  of  the  Company,  No.  27  Broad- 
way, or  No.  276  Pearl  Street. 

F.  W.  J.  HUBST,  Manager. 
28 


II  I'lllll  MlSl 


^J 


BROAD  AND  CHESTNUT  STREETS, 


The  undersigned,  having  leased  the  above  favorite  house,  and  having  REFITTED 
AND  REFURNISHED  IT  THROUGHOUT  IN  THE  MOST  ELEGANT  MANNER, 
will  spare  no  pains  to  maintain  the  character  it  has  always  enjoyed,  as 

ONE  OF  THE  BEST  PIEST-CLAgS  HOTELS 

Of  the  Country. 

29 


JAMES  E.  CALDWELL  &  CO., 

No.   822    CHESrNUT  STREET, 

(Adjoining  Continental  Hotel),  PHILADELPHIA, 

IMPORTERS,  MANUFACTURERS,  AND  DEALERS  IN 

DIAMONDS  and  PRECIOUS  STONES, 


SUITES    OF 


RICH     JEW  EL  R  Y, 

Fine   Watches,   Traveling  Timepieces, 

MANTEL  CLOCKS,  REAL  BRONZES, 

CANDELABRAS,    STATUART   AND    VASES,    SILVER- 
WARES OF  EXQUISITE  DESIGNS, 

RARE   NOVELTIES,  FANCY  ARTICLES, 

And  every  production  of   Induftry  and  Art  appertaining  to  the 

businefs  of 

GOLDSMITHS    AND    SILVERSMITHS. 


FIXED    PRICES    IN    PLAIN    FIGURES. 


Slranj/crs  a?'e  cord/a//y  i7ivited  to  visit  t?iis  Bsiahllsh7nent, 
ji'tiettter  tUelr  object  be  to  pici'ctiase  07^  ottierifise, 

30 


A 


11 


f  a 


«!Si 


I 


PHILADELPHIA. 


J.    E-    ISZHSTG-SXjE^ST    <Ss    CO-, 


IProprietors. 


7//, 


31 


lEllIOlf   HOI 


T    ^Jrr^ 


f    ^'^  m 


M 


d 


TO  M. 


Bingham,  Wrisley  &  Company. 


3-2 


IP)  TO)  W  TO  1^  TO      1PF  #ft  If  ©'  TO 


B1NGHAM5   Wrisley  &  Company. 


33 


BiGELow   Brothers  &   Kennard, 


219  WASMIKGTON  STBBBT, 


B03T 


IMPOKTEES,  JOBBERS,  AND  EETAILEES  OP 


&>^- 


SI 


H 


mw^ 


GENUINE  AUTISTIC  BRONZES, 


AND 


OBJECTS    OIP    -A.IiT, 


JEWELRY, 


OF     AIL.!.     KI]\5>S. 


Silver   JVavCf  in  all  its  variety,  always  in  stock,  and  manufactured  to  order. 

Latest  Novelties  in  the  trade  received  by  every  steamer  from  resident 
agents  abroad. 

Precious  Stones  mounted,  and  fine  Jeivelry  made  to  order  upon  the  prem 
ises  by  superior  workmen. 

Agents  for  the  very  desirable 

MANUFACTURED   BY   THE   NEW 

TREfflONT    WATCH    COMPANY    OF    BOSTON. 


WHOLESALE  DEPARTMENT,  No.  10  Bromfield  Street. 

34 


ll 


# 


BOSTON. 


m 


mmmmm^ 


sgs^-^^^^^^^ 


LEWIS  RICE,  Proprietor. 


35 


MACULLAR,  WILLIAMS  &  PARKER, 

Manufacturers  of,  and  "Wholesale  and  Retail  Dealers  in 

FIRST-CLASS  CLOTHING, 


AND 


IMPORTERS  AND  JOBBERS  OF 

FINE      WOOLL  ENS. 

Manufactory  and  Principal  Warehouse  at 

194  WASHINGTON    STREET,    BOSTON,   MASS. 


BRANCH  STORE  FOR  THE  SALE  AT  WHOLESALE  AND  RETAIL  OF 

Fine  and  Medium  Clothing, 

AND 

men's    furnishing    goods, 


AT 


270   KING    STREET,  CHARLESTON,  S.  C. 

36 


s: 


li    li 


f^ 


tiS^l 


rfi 


liflE 


J 


OPPOSITE  THE 


K!©w  Y@irk  amdl  N]©w  Hjgi\f©iit«,  and  W©st©ifni  KaKiPQadl  Pepotj 

BEACH  STREET,  BOSTON. 


F.  M.  PRATT, 

FoTxnerlf  of  the  American  House. 


37 


Life  and  Accident  Insnrance. 

THE    OTlXCrXl^JkJLi 

TBIVELEBI  INSUMNOE  e 

OF    HARTFORD,  Coiin., 

INSURES  AGAINST  ALL   ACCIDENTS 

Causing  Loss  of  Life  or  Bodily  Injury. 

ALSO,    INSURES   AGAINST 

LOSS  OF  LIFE  FROM  AM  CAUSE, 

"Wlietlier  Disease  oi*  -Occident, 

WITH  COMPENSATION  FOE  PEESONAL  INJUEIES. 


Paid  up  Capita!, $500,000, 

T^ith.  a  net  Siarplias  of  over  SSOO,000. 


GENEHAIi  ACCIDENT  POLiICIES  insure  against  all  personal  casnalties  (except 
disease),  paying  any  sum  frem  $l,(iOO  to  $10,000  in  the  event  of  fatal  accident,  or  $5  to  .$50  veekly 
compensation  for  cfl^ablinr/  injury,  at  the  cost  of  $5  to  $20  annual  premium  jjcr  $1,000,  according 
to  occupation.  A  liberal  discount  on  three  and  five  year  policies.  General  Accident  Policies  re- 
quire 110  medical  examination.  All  ages  ara  taken",  frorn  15  to  75,  and  the  Agent  will  write  the 
Policy  without  the  delay  of  a  transmission  to  the  Home  Office. 

LIFE  AJNT>  ACCIDENT  POLICIES  combine  all  ihe  benefits  of  Life  and  Accident 
insurance  under  one  policy,  at  surprisingly  low  rates  of  premium.  They  insure  against  loss  of 
life  from  any  cause,  whether  disease,  accident,  violence,  or  natural  death  ;  with  couipensation  for 
disabling  injury  by  accident.  All  approved  forms  of  Life  Policies  written — Ten  Year  Non- 
forfeitable, NoN-FoRFEiTABLE  ENDOWMENT,  LiFE,  Or  Term — either  with  or  vrithout  com- 
pensation for  injuries,  as  the  applicant  may.  prefer.  Of  the  new  Life  and  Accident  Policy  (com- 
bined), the  Philadeli)hia  Insurance  Reporter  says  : 

''The  history  of  life  insurance  records  no  instance  whore  loss  or  damage  done  to  the  person,  as 
well  as  absolute  loss  of  lifo^  have  been  covered  under  one  insurance  policy.  This  new  feature  the 
Travelers  (if  Hartford  have  adopted ;  and,  while  it  covers  a  still  broader  ground  than  either  the 
ordinary  life  or  accident  policy,  the  expense  attending  the  .same  is  but  slightly  increased.  We 
look  upon  this  new  feature  as  being  one  step  forward  in  the  life  business,  and  calculated  to  sujier- 
sede  the  old  system  entirely.  There  is  so  much  propriety  in  covering,  under  one  policy,  tl\& 
escape  from  deaths  as  well  as  death  iUelf  that  no  thinking  person  could  hesitate  to  adopt  such 
a  policy  at  once." 

OVER  FOIJE   THOUSAND   LOSSES   PAID 

Witliin  tlie  First  Two  Years  of  Business. 

The  Travelers,  of  llAKTroRn.  is  the  pioneer  Accident  Insurance  Company  of  America,  and 
the  first  to  combine  life  and  accident  insurance  under  one  policy ;  it  has  a  capital  and  net  surphis 
of  over  $700,000,  safely  invested  for  the  security  of  policy-holders ;  it  is  managed  by  careful  and 
experienced  underwriters;  it  had,  u[)  to  December  1st,  issued  upward  (A  eirjhty  thoxisaiul  \io\\- 
cies,  and  prompily  iiaid  over  foxr  thoiificnd  lossefi, — among  them,  sixty-four  total  losses  {\)y 
death),  in  which  tlie  large  sam  of  $198,500  was  realized  for  .tl,l]7  received  in  premiums. 

J.  G.  BATTEESOI^,  President.  EODNEY  DEN:ffIS,  Secretary, 

BOSTON  OFFICE:  40  State  Street.  NEW  YORK  OFFICE:  207  Broadway. 

CHICAGO  BKAKCU  OFFICE :  80  La  Salle  Street. 

U;;^" Agencies  in  all  principal  cities  and  tovs^ns  of  United  States  and  Canadas. 

38 


e, 


THE 

RAILWAY    PASSENGER'S 


II  ASSURANCE   COMPANY, 

OF  HARTFOED,  CONN. 


00 


i?5i"fpl 


Paid-up  Capital,  -         -         -         -         $304,800 

ISSUES  TICKETS  OF  MSURMCE  AGAINST  ALL  KL\DS  OF  ACCIDENTS, 
RESULTING  IN  LOSS  OF  LIFE  OR  PERSONAL  INJURY. 


Tile  Stock  is  owned  by  tlie  foUowing-  Accident  Insurance  Companies,  wlio 

have  consolidated  in  this  Company  their  short  time,  or  Ticket  Insurance 

Departraents : 

The  Tkavelers,  of  Hartford,  Ct.;  The  Travellers,  of  Providence,  R.  I.; 

The  Accident,  of  Columbus,  Ohio;  The  Western  Transit,  of  St.  Louis,  Mo.; 

The  Northwestern,  of  Madison,  Wis.;  The  North  American  Transit,  of  Phila.,  Pa.; 

The  United  States  Accident,  of  Syracuse,  N.  Y. 


The  General  Accident  Tickets  of  Travel 

(Sold  at  Railroad  and  Steamboat  Ticket  Offices),  cover  all  Accidents  happening  to  the  In- 
sured durin2f  the  prosecution  of  his  journey,  insuring  $25  per  week  Compensation  during 
Total  Disability,  for  a  period  not  exceeding  26  weeks,  from  non-fatal  injuries,  and  .$5,000 
in  the  event  of  death.  At  Twenty  cents  per  day;  Discoicntfrom  the  Daily  Bates  on  Tickets 
for  Twenty  and  Thirty  Days. 

The  Travelers'  Bisk  Tickets 

(Sold  at  Railroad  and  Steamboat  Ticket  Offices),  cover  such  Accidents  ONLY  as  may  happen 
TO  THE  CONVEYANCE  by  which  the  Insured  may  be  at  the  time  traveling,  and  result  in 
Loss  of  Life  or  Personal  injury,  insuring  $15  per  week  Compensation  during  Total  Disabil- 
ity, for  a  period  not  exceeding  26  weeks,  from  non-fatal  injuries,  and  $3,000  in  the  event  of 
death.  At  Ten  cents  per  Day;  Discount  from  the  Daily  Rates  on  Tickets  for  Twenty  and 
Thirty  Days. 

Beg-istered  Short-Time  Policies, 

Sold  by  Agents  of  the  companies  parties  to  this  Consolidation.    Insuring  against  all  kinds  of 

Accidents,  Traveling  or  otherwise.,  securing 

$5,000  IN  CASE  OF  DEATH,  OR  $25  PER  WEEK  INDEMNITY, 

During  Total  Disability,  for  26  weeks,  from  any  kind  of  Accident,  without  reference  to  the 

Time,  Place,  or  Manner  of  Occurrence, 

One  Day,  25  Cts.,    Three  Days,  75  Cts.,    Five  Days,  $1  25,    Ten  Days,  $2  50. 

As  these  policies  are  consecutively  numbered,  and  the  name  and  residence  of  the  purcha- 
ser carefully  registered  and  recorded  at  the  Home  Office,  his  rights  are  guaranteed  in  case  of 
fatal  accident,  or  loss  of  the  Policy. 
JAS.  G.  BATTERSON,  Pres.     GEO.  13.  WRIGHT,  Vice-Pres.     HENRY  T.  SPERRY,  Sec. 

BOARD  OF  DIRECTORS: 

JAMES  G.  BATTERSON,  GUSTAVUS  F.  DAVIS,  Hartford,  Ct. 

LEWIS  L.  HOUPT,  JAMES  M.  CONRAD,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

CH.  H.  HASKINS,  W.  A.  BKAWNER,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 

N   B   VAN  SLYKE,  SAMUI<]L  D.  HASTINGS,  Madison,  Wis. 

BENJAMIN  E.  SMITH,  GEORGE  B.  WRIGHT,  Columbus,  O 

H    H    ORMSBEE,  ALEXANDER  FARNUM,  Providence,  R.  I. 

A.  A.  HOWLETT,  FRANK  HISCOCK,  Syracuse.  N.  Y. 
JjUSTIN  SNOW,  General  Ticket  Agent.           -                     C.  D.  PALMER,  General  Agent. 


;.;» 


rAi 


Ml 


3  1 


Corner  Sutter  and  Montgomery  Streets, 
SAN    FRANCISCO. 


•»• 


THIS   HOUSE   18  IN  EVEET   ESSPEOT 

THE  FIRST-CLA.SS  HOTEL 

OF  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

Its  interior  is  finished  with  a  degree  of  excellence  unsurpassed  by  any  Hotel  in  the 

United  States. 


BATHS    ON    EVERY    FLOOR: 


IN   FACT, 


AJI^Tj    THLK    IM:i>IiO"V^KM:ENTS    OF    THE    AGrE: 


JOHNSON  &  CO.,  Proprietors. 


40 


.   W.    TUCKER   &   CO., 

JEV/SLLEES, 

Montgomery  Street,  San  Francisco,  Cal. 


-•♦«— 


This  house  keeps  one  hundred  men  employed  in  the  manufacturing  of 


■®ifj, 


®''iif 


ill 


i^'! 


itel^SlBSS 


f 


and  do  all  kinds  of  Lapidary  work,  such  as 


Cutting  and  Polisliing  Gold-bearing  Quartz, 

and  other  California  Stones  and  Petrifactions,  and  mounting  the  same. 
Also  import  all  their  own  Watch  Movements  direct,  and  case  the  same 
in  California  Gold.     Import 

,nd  other  Precious  Stones,  from  Paris,  Amsterdam,  and  other  European  Cities. 
P.  S. — ^Keep  on  hand  a  largo  stock  of 

4M11IGA1  W4f  ©Hi 

Every  thing  as  guaranteed,  or  money  refunded. 


18 


41 


STlBHllOSCOFIO    "FIEWS 


OF 


b\^o\l  cLd^o 


iiMimx. 


A  SEEIES  OF  OVER  ONE  THOUSAND  VIEWS 

OF  THE 

3Iost  JProminent   Points  of  Interest  on  the  Pacific  Coast, 

PHOTOGEAPHED  KKH  PUBLISHED  BY 

LAWRENCE  8l  KOUSEWORTH    Opticians, 

317  and  319  Montgomery  St.,  San  Francisco. 


Catalogues  sent  to  any  part  of  the  world,  free  of  postage. 


mi  C! 


e)^ 


ISL     STIREET, 


'© 


Betiveen  Sixth  and  Seventh  Sti'eets, 


SACRAMENTO. 


D.  E.  CALLAHAN,  Proprietor. 


I^ree  Carriage  to  a7td /roni  i?ie  Ca7^s  a7id  Sica77iboais, 


42 


'•Tit, 

'A 


l@lf®]W®El 


mmmvs' 


'■ii 


KKf, 


WINE  HOUSE, 

isTo-  lis  E.A.ST  si:x:t:e3:  st:r,eet, 

CINCINNATI,  OHIO, 

W.  1>.  ANDMBSOW,  Manager. 


3?Miag  aad  Still 


€^TAWBA.  SSABMI.£.^.  Ste» 


WYOMING  VALLEY  HOTEL, 

WILKES  BARRE, 

Ward  &  Co.,  Proprietors. 


•  ■^ « 


This  house  for  beauty  of  situation  is  unsurpassed  in  this 
country,  and  has  a  combination  of  all  the  modem  improve- 
ments found  in  city  hotels.  It  is  magnificently  furnished 
throughout,  and  has  accommodation  for  2oo  guests. 

'  Spacious  Balconies  command  a  ,view  of  the  charming 
Valley  of  Wyoming,  while  the  Susquehanna  glides  beneath, 
and  is  visible  for  miles  on  either  side.  The  Drives  and 
opportunities  for  Sailing,  Rowing,  and  Fishing  are  excellent, 
and  the  Proprietors  will  spare  nothing  in  order  to  make  it 
I  one  of  the  most  delightful,  as  well  as  fashionable,  places  of 
resort  in  the  country. 

43 


TO  TOURISTS,  TRAVELLERS,  AND  MINERS. 


I 


PACIFIC    MAP    DEPOT, 

5 1  I    Montgomery  Street, 

SAN  FEANCISCO. 


A-     G  E  N  SO  U  L, 

MAP  PUBLISHEE,  BOOKSELLES,  MD  STATIONEE. 


A  FULL  ASSORTMENT  OF 


in  use  on  this  Coast. 

MISCELLANEOUS  BOOKS,  STATIONERY,  &c. 


c*^ 


n 


IMPORTERS  AND  JOBBERS  OF 

!|GUNS,  RIFLES,  REVOLVERS,  DERINGER  PISTOLS, 

AMMUNITION,  &c.,  &c., 

JVb.   262  Uroadway,  H'ew  YorJc. 
Sole    Agents    for 

"  BaBIard's"  Patent  Bceech-Loading 


Sporting  and  Military  Eifies  and  Carbines, 

THE  ."SOUTHLEIENJER   I»ISTO£<,'> 

EAGLE  ARMS  COMPANY'S  PATENT  CARTRIDGE  REVOLVERS, 
WniTi\EY  AR3IS  COMPAM^S   COLT'S   EIOSEL  RE\  OLVEKS  AND  SHOT 

New  York  Metallic  Ammunition  Company's  Water-Proof  Cartridges, 

SINGLE-SHOT  PISTOLS,    &c.,    &c. 

44 


GIXS, 


HJ^BLISTOSI  HOTIIL 


$ 


CHARLESTOFd,  8.  C. 


This  popular  and  well-known  Hotel,  situated  in  MEETING  STREET  corner  of 
HAYNE,  has  been  newly  furnished  throughout,  and  cannot  be  excelled  by  any  in  the 
country. 

WM.  "WHITE,  Proprietor. 


S.   F.   ST 


iAE 


I A  B  In  I 


ATI 


MOWABn  HOTEL,  178  BMOADWAY, 
n  EW    YOR  K. 


Zatest  Slyle  of  Gen  Is'  Hats  a7icl  Caps  aht^ays  on  ?iand,  a^id 
Made  to  Orde?'  in  i?ie  Sest  Mangier, 

EVERY  DESOEIPTION  OF  FUES  IF  THEIR  SEASON. 

45 


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46 


TICKNOR    &    FIELDS, 

PUBLISHERS, 

Boston    and    New    York, 

respectfully  invite  attention   to  their    list  of  publications, 
comprising  the  works  of  the 

BEST  AMERICAN  AND  ENGLISH  AUTHORS. 


Also,  to  their  Periodicals- 


The  Atlantic  Monthly, 

Our  Young  Folks, 

Every  Saturday, 

The  North  American  Review. 


Any  book  or  magazine  on  our  list  sent  post-paid 
on  receipt  of  price.     Catalogues  furnished  on  application. 

TicKNOR  &  Fields, 

124  Tremont  Street,  Boston, 

63  Bleecker  Street,  New  York. 
47 


THE     GALAXY, 

Is  published  monthly.  Every  number  contains  two  or  more  full-page  engravings, 
by  the  most  distinguished  of  contemporary  artists,  printed  on  tinted  paper,  and 
articles  by  the  ablest  and  most  brilliant  writers.  During  the  year  1867  the  following 
special  attractions  are  offered  : 

Waiting  for  the  Verdict,    A  powerful  ISTovel.    By  Rebecca 

Harding  Davis,  author  of  "  Life  in  the  Iron  Mills,"  "  Margaret  Howth,"  etc. 
Illustrated  by  W.  J.  Henxessy. 

Words  and  their  Uses,    A  Series  of  Papers.    By  Richaed 

Grant  White. 

Steven  Lawrence^  Yeo^nan.  A  ISTovel.    By  Mrs.  Edwaeds, 

author  of  "  Archie  Lovell,"  etc. 

Articles  on  Art  and  Social  Subjects,      By   Eugene 

Benson. 

The  General  Articles  will  be  always  fresh,  varied,  timely,  and  interesting:.  The  Galaxy  is 
edited  on  the  policy  of  publishing  ai-ticles  simply  on  their  merits.  The  result  has  been  to  draw 
out  new  writers  of  ability,  and  to  give  the  magazine  the  charm  of  freshness  and  variety. 

The  price  of  The  Galaxy  is  $3.50  a  year.  Two  copies  will  be  sent  for  $6 ;  five  copies  for  $14 ; 
ten  for  $25  ;  twenty  for  $50,  and  one  to  the  getter  up  of  the  club.  Single  copies  30  cents.  Sub- 
scriptions may  be  dated  from  any  number  desired. 


THE  ARMY  AND  NAVY  JOURNAL ; 


GAZETTE  OF  TETB 


REGULAR,  VOLUNTEER,  AND  MILITIA  FORCES 

OF  THE 

UnSTITED    STA.TES, 

Is  the  only  organ  of  the  Army,  Navy,  and  Militia  of  the  United  States.    Its  scope  embraces : 

1,  Full  official  gazettes  of  the  three  Services.  2.  Trustworthy  reports  of  their  movements, 
3.  All  personal  matters  of  interest  to  the  three  Services,  4.  Military  Discussion  and  Criticism. 
5.  Sninmaries,  reviews,  and  discussions  of  Foreign  Military  Atiairs.  G.  The  science  of  practical 
Steam-Engineering  as  applied  to  vessels-of-war. 

THE    ARMY   AND    NAVY    JOURNAL; 

GAZETTE  OF  THE  REGULAR  AND  VOLUNTEER  FORCES. 

It  is  published  every  Saturday,  and  may  be  obtained  by  the  single  copy  at  all  the  leading 
newsdealers;  or  may  be  ordered  from  the  Proprietors  at  $6  a  year;  $3  for  six  months. 

*#*  Bound  volumes  of  the  Army  and  Navy  Journ-al,  containing  a  complete  record  of  the 
war -of  the  Rebellion,  with  maps,  official  reports,  lists  of  killed  and  wounded,  appointments,  and 
changes  of  all  kinds  in  the  Army  and  Navy,  and  a  weekly  chronicle  of  the  events  of  the  war.  may 
be  obtained  of  the  Proprietors.  Three  volumes,  folio ;  price,  in  cloth,  $7.50  each ;  in  half  mo- 
rocco, $10  each. 

T7ie  Galaxy  and  the  Army  and  Navy  Journal  will  he  sent  one  year  for  $8.50. 


0 


W.  C.  &  F.  P.  CHURCH,  Proprietors, 

A  No.  39  Park  Row,  New  York. 


™?3, 


iECCA 

,"  etc, 


;nAP,D 


mi 


:6EKE 


urn  18 
10  to 


lU.  Sill 


AL; 


!^'^'. 


AL; 


tbeloJ 
ijliilfii 

]R 
,  toils' 


WELLS  BINDERY  INCJ 
ALTHAM,  MASS. 


APR.  1968 


NORTHEASTERN  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARIES      DUPL 


3  9358  01397637  5 


917.3