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THE  AEAUCANIANS; 


OR, 


NOTES  OF  A  TOUR 


AMONG   THE 


INDIAN  TRIBES  OF  SOUTHERN  CHILI. 


BY 


EDMOND  REDEL  SMITH, 

OF  THS  U.  S.   N.    ASTRONOMICAL   EXPEDITION   IN   CHILI. 


NEW    YORK: 

HARPER    &    BROTHERS,    PUBLISHERS, 

FRANKLIN     SQVARK 

1855., 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  one  thousand 
eight  hundred  and  fifty-five,  by 


Harper  &  Brothers, 


in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  Distriet_Goutt,of  the  Southern  District 

31 IG 

se5 


TO. 


LIEUT.  JAMES  M.  GILLISS,  U.S.N., 

COMMANDER   OF   THE    U.   8.   N.   ASTRONOMICAL   EXPEDITION    IX   CHIU, 


8Ci)fs  Volumz  la  respectfuUs  23eTifcatetJ 


BY    THE    AUTHOR. 


I 


I 


PREFACE. 


In  the  year  1849  the  United  States  government 
authorized  an  Expedition,  under  the  command  of 
Lieutenant  James  M.  Gilliss  of  the  Navy,  for  the 
purpose  of  making  astronomical  and  other  observa- 
tions in  Chili.  Deeming  the  opportunity  an  unusually 
favorable  one  for  visiting  a  country  somewhat  re- 
moved from  the  ordinary  route  of  tourists,  I  made 
application  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  and  re- 
ceived an  appointment  as  a  member  of  the  expedi- 
tion. 

On  arriving  in  Chili  a  permanent  observatory  was 
established  at  Santiago,  the  capital.  It  is  not  my 
object  to  treat  of  the  nature  of  our  observations,  to 
give  a  scientific  description  of  the  country,  or  even 
to  introduce  the  reader  to  the  refined  and  agreeable 
society  which  gave  a  charm  to  our  long  residence  at 
the  seat  of  government.  Such  subjects  have  been 
left  to  the  abler  pen  of  one  whose  high  position  in 
the  scientific  world  will  give  to  his  opinion  a  degree 
of  authority  that  could   never  be  attached   to  any 


Tl  PREFACE. 

thing  contained  in  the  present  volume.  Suffice  it 
to  say,  that  so  confining  was  the  nature  of  our 
work,  that  at  the  end  of  three  years,  when  the  Ex- 
pedition was  ordered  home,  wc  had  enjoyed  but  few 
opportunities  of  going  beyond  the  limits  of  the  city 
in  which  we  were  stationed. 

Unwilling  to  return  to  the  United  States  without 
first  becoming  somewhat  acquainted  with  the  coun- 
try in  which  we  had  so  long  resided,  I  tendered  my 
resignation,  and  set  out  on  a  tour  through  the  central 
and  southern  portions  of  Chili. 

After  several  weeks  spent  in  traveling  through 
parts  of  the  country  that  have  frequently  been  de- 
scribed by  others,  I  reached  Concepcion,  from  which 
place  I  subsequently  started  to  visit  the  Araucanian 
Indians,  who  form  the  subject  of  the  following  pages. 

At  a  time  like  the  present,  when  so  general  an 
interest  is  felt  in  every  thing  relating  to  the  aborig- 
inal races  of  America,  I  feel  that  no  apology  will  be 
expected  for  the  publication  of  any  information  in 
regard  to  a  tribe  of  Indians  who  are  but  little  known 
and  rarely  visited,  though  they  have  won  for  them- 
selves an  enviable  reputation,  by  successfully  resist- 
ing the  encroachments  of  the  white  man  for  more 
than  three  hundred  years. 

My  object  has  been  to  give  such  an  account  of  the 
manners,  customs,  religion,  and  present  conditiqn  of 


PREFACE.  Vn 

the  Araucanians  as  may  be  interesting  both  to  the 
student  of  ethnology  and  to  the  general  reader. 

The  naiTative  of  my  journey,  from  the  time  of  leav- 
ing Concepcion  until  I  entered  the  Indian  territory, 
may  perhaps  be  considered  irrelevant ;  but  I  have 
thought  proper  to  include  it,  in  order  to  give  the 
reader  some  idea  of  the  character  and  life  of  the  fron- 
tier inhabitants  of  Chili,  who  are  themselves  nearly 
related  to  the  aborigines  of  the  country. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTEH  I. 

Leave  Concepcion. — The  Bio-Bio. — Gualqui. — The  Posada. — Mate. 
— TheArriero 13 

CHAPTER  II. 

The  Coast  Range. — The  Lunatic. — Treatment  of  the  Insane. — Chil- 
ian "Sleepy  Hollow." — The  Frenchman. — ^A  live  Yankee 20 

CHAPTER  III. 

Yumbel. — The  Valdiviano. — Volcanic  Sand. — The  Recruiting  Sta- 
tion.— Rio  Claro. — Singular  Embankment. — Search  for  Lodgings. 
— ^Distant  View  of  Antuco. — Falls  of  the  Laja 29 

CHAPTER  lY. 

Fording  Rivers. — Hanging  Bridges. — ^The  Donkey  "wot  wouldn't 
go." — Getting  across. — Scenes  on  the  Road. — Politeness  of  the 
Natives 41 

CHAPTER  Y. 

Arrival  at  Los  Angelos. — Birth-days  and  Saint-days. — ^Watching  an 
Angel. — Los  Angelos. — Manufacture  of  Ponchos. — Start  for  the 
Volcano  of  Antuco 49 

CHAPTER  VI. 

On  the  Road. — Lost  in  the  Woods, — The  Brazero. — Sunday  in  An- 
tuco.— Pehuenches. — The  Zamacilca. — The  Cura  of  Antuco  and 

the  Cura  of  R . — Hospitality  and  Peppers. — Peddling  versus 

Respectability..... 57 

CHAPTER  YH. 

Ballenar. — The  Tuvunlevu. — Scoria. — Volcano  of  Antuco. — Making 
a  Night  of  it. — Lake  Laja. — Inquisitiveness  of  the  Guasos. — Nearly 
an  Adventure. — A  pleasant  Drink 79 

CHAPTER  YIII. 

The  Policeman's  Horse. — Visit  to  a  Hacienda. — Branding  Cattle. — 
Farming  in  Chili. — Chilian  Wine. — The  limits  of  the  Polka. — 

Traveling  in  Carts 95 

a* 


X  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  IX. 
Halting-places  of  the  Dead. — San  Carlos  de  Puren. — A  pleasant  Bed- 
fellow.— Naeimiento. — River  Vergara. — Life  at  Nacimiento. — The 
Old  Lady.— A  Scorpion 107 

CHAPTER  X. 

Return  to  Los  Angelos. — The  Siesta. — Table  Etiqxiette. — Night  at 
San  Carlos.— Dona  Pablita.— The  Pillow.— Hair  Shirts.— Intro- 
ductory remark  to  a  History  of  the  Araucanians 120 

CHAPTER  XI. 

The  Aborigines  of  Chili. — Conquest  of  Northern  Chili  by  the  In- 
cas. — ^First  Expedition  of  the  Spaniards  under  Almagro 129 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Valdivia's  Expedition. — Santiago  built. — Reinforcements  demanded. 
— Treaty  Avith  Purumancians. — Foundation  of  Concepcion. — Op- 
position of  the  Araucanians. — Defeat  and  Death  of  Valdivia.  136 

CHAPTER  Xm. 

Battle  of  Marigueno. — Destruction  of  Concepcion. — Concepcion  re- 
built and  again  destroyed.— Expedition  of  Lautaro  against  Santi- 
ago.— His  Defeat  and  Death 147 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Mendoza  rebuilds  Concepcion. — Cruelty  to  Prisoners. — Attempted 
Surprise  of  Imperial. — Death  of  Caupolican. — Progress  of  Hostil- 
ities.— Janaqueo. — Martin  Loyola. — Destruction  of  the  Cities  of 
the  Plain. — Conclusion 156 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Plans  for  the  Journey. — Delay  at  Budeo. — Our  Stock  in  Trade. — ■. 
Close  Quarters. — Indian  Graves. — Burial  Feasts. — Funeral  Rites. 
— "  Alhue'  Mapu,"  the  "  Land  of  the  Dead." — State  of  the  Soul 
after  Death 167 

CHAPTER  XVL 

Leave  Budeo. — Pincheira  and  his  Followers. — The  Silversmith. — 
The  Missionaiy. — Antiche'o.  —  Mapuche'  Eloquence.  —  Dignity 
and  WiA'es.  —  Our  Supper.  —  Calbucoi,  —  Trading.  —  Levying 
Tribute *^176 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Mapuche  Etiquette. — The  formal  Introduction. — The  Itch.— Horse- 
manship. —  Indian  Mannei-s.  —  Commercial  Honesty.  — Trefes.  — 
Burning  the  Grass.  — The  "Island  of  Heaven."  — Domestic  Ar- 
rangement.— Dogs  and  their  Privileges 196 


CONTENTS.  XI 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Female  Dress,  Paint,  Beads,  etc. — The  borrowed  Children. — Swath- 
ing Infants. — Mapuche  Marriages. — Value  of  a  Wife. — Infidelity. 
— A  Case  in  Point. — Female  Virtue 207 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Superstitious  dread  of  Writing,  etc. — Hatred  of  the  English,  and  its 
Origin. — Use  of  Iron. — Mapuche  Graves. — Return  of  Captives. — 
The  Evil  Eye. — Raising  of  Sheep. — Introduction  of  Carts  by  Trad- 
ers.—Tactics  of  Chilian  Officials 221 

CHAPTER  XX. 

The  sick  Woman. — The  Cautery. — Skill  of  the  Mapuche's  in  Medi- 
cine.— Machi,  or  Doctors. — Their  Cures  and  Incantations. — Div- 
inations.— The  Machi  of  Boroa. — Remedies 233 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

<^orm  of  Goverament  of  the  Araucanians. — Council  of  Peace. — Na- 
J)    tional  Assemblies. — Council  of  War. — The  Colyico. — Peculiarities 
0     in  the  Mapuche  Head  and  Foot. — Thv.  Jevv's-hai'p. — Primeval  For- 
est.— Ketredeguin 240 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

Visit  to  Maiiin. — Origin  and  Traditions  of  the  Mapuches. — Distri- 
bution of  Presents. — Munchausen  Stories. — Adoption. — Namcu- 
Lauquen. — Names 250 

CHAPTER  XXm. 

Shaving. — Hair-pulling. — Katrilao. — Begging  vcrs?/s  Taxation. — New 
traveling  Companion. — Mule  Doctoring  extraordinary. — The  good 
Omen. — Religion  of  the  Mapuches. — Sacrifices  and  Libations. — 
Christian  Missions 264 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Camping  Out. — Cider-making. — Plucking  W^heat. — Potatoes. — ^Fin- 
gers cersus  Combs. — The  Horse-thief. — Juan  Yevul. — Regnaco. — 
Squabble. —  The  Cholchol. —  Value  of  a  Mustache. —  Threshing 
Wheat 27U 

:  CHAPTER  XXV. 

Singular  Can-ings.  —  Business  Transactions. — The  Boroans.  —  An 
Enigma.  —  Cancura.  —  Huilyiche'  Houses.  —  The  Machitun. — 
Wives  of  Ayllal.— Weaving.— The  Widow 290 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

The  Beggar's  Dance. — Making  Mudai. — Plain  of  Boroa. — The  Vol- 
canoes of  Ketredeguin,  Llayma,  Llogoll,  and  Villa  Rica. — Grind- 
ing Corn  at  Night.- — Making  Bread GUI 


Xll  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 
We  begin  our  Eeturn. — Graves  of  the  Huilyiches. — Fording  Rivers. 
-—Collecting  Cattle.— The  Rule  of  Three.— Ruins  of  Imperial.— 
A  Miracle. — Cattle-Driving. — The  troubles  of  Trauque 308 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

Arrive  at  Manin's. — Nachi. — The  Game  of  Pelican. — Gambling. — 
Avas. — Teetotum. — Sumeles. — A  new  Sister. — Sad  Parting. — 
Rheinnatism. — Budeo. — Good-by  to  Arauco 318 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 

San  Carlos. — Dofia  Pablita. — A  Damper. — Los  Angelos. — A  Peri- 
patetic Government. — Town  of  Rere. — Palm  Sunday. — Concep- 
cion. — Visit  De  la  Vega. — Kindness  of  Friends. — Conclusion.  328 


LIST  OF  ENGRAVINGS. 


PAGE 

Plain  of  Boroa Frontispiece.  ■ 

Falls  of  the  Laja 38*^ 

Hanging  Bridge 43 

Chilian  Cart 47 

Pehuenche  Indians 62 

The  Zamacuca QQ 

Indian  Grave 172 

Indian  Spur 181 

Trading  with  the  Indians 191,. 

Mapuche  Saddle-Tree,  Saddle-Cloth,  and  Stirrups 200 

Moruche  Women 209- 

Papoose  and  Cradle 213 

Mapuche  Graves 227 

Indian  Mode  of  Sleeping 260 

Cider  making 278 

Making  Mudai 303 

Mapuches  Gambling 322< 


TEE    ARAUCANIANS 


CHAPTEE   I. 


Leaye  Concepcion. — The  Bio-Bio.-^Gnalqui. — The  Posada. — Mate. 
— The  Arriero. 

It  was  on  the  4th  of  January,  1853,  that,  impelled 
by  the  love  of  adventure,  I  started  from  Concepcion 
to  visit  that  classic  field  of  Chilian  history — the  land 
of  Araucania. 

I  had  been  disappointed  about  horses,  delayed  in 
fc'  procuring  the  requisite  outfit,  and  at  the  very  eleventh 
hour  my  servant  deserted  me,  terrified  by  the  warn- 
ings and  entreaties  of  his  friends,  who  represented  a 
journey  among  the  Indians  as  fraught  with  every 
danger.  But  determined  to  be  detained  no  longer,  I 
picked  up  a  guide  who  agreed  to  accompany  me  to 
Los  Angelos,  and  though  the  day  was  already  far 
advanced  we  immediately  set  out. 

Leaving  the  city  we  came  upon  the  Bio-Bio,  along 
which  our  road  wound  for  several  leagues.  The 
shores  are  undulating,  and  generally  finely  wooded, 
and  though  the  current  is  rapid,  the  surface  of  the 
water  is  beautifully  tranquil.  This  river  is  broad 
and  deep ;  it  is  the  largest  in  Chili,  and  its  whole  ap- 


14  THE     AKAUCANIANS. 

pearance  reminded  me  much  of  the  Potomac  near 
Wasliington. 

A  ride  of  a  few  hours  brought  us  to  Gualqui,  a 
miserable  hamlet.  The  place  offered  little  attraction 
to  the  traveler;  but  night  was  approaching,  the  skies 
were  darkly  overcast,  and  prudence  forbade  our  pro- 
ceeding  further.  We  accordingly  halted,  and  after 
some  trouble  discovered  a  hovel  where,  according  to 
a  board  nailed  upon  the  wall,  entertainment  could  be 
procured  for  both  man  and  beast.  This  was  the  "po- 
sada"  (inn),  and  was  a  fair  sample  of  those  generally 
found  throughout  the  rural  districts. 

The  usual  magnificent  declaration  that  we  could 
be  accommodated  with  whatever  we  desired,  dwindled 
down  to  the  never-failing  jerked-beef  and  chicken 
broth,  the  latter  of  which  was  ordered;  and  thinking 
that  wherever  chickens  were  procurable  eggs  might  also 
be  had,  I  asked  the  old  woman  who  seemed  to  be  the 
presiding  genius,  to  fry  a  few  for  our  supper.  Her 
answer  was  singularly  characteristic — ^'Aqui,  S^nor, 
loshuevos  andan  a  caballo  r  ("  Eggs  ride  on  horseback 
here,  Sir!")  meaning  that  they  were  scarce  and  dear. 
Not  exactly  comprehending  her  meaning,  as  the  ex- 
pression was  new  to  me,  I  made  some  foolish  reply, 
much  to  the  amusement  of  the  old  lady.  The  ex- 
planation that  I  was  an  "  Ingles"  did  not  satisfy  her, 
and  soon  after  I  overheard  her  in  earnest  conversation 
with  the  servant.  Being  assured  that  I  was  really  a 
foreigner,  she  was  more  than  ever  surprised.  '-^Benaiga 
sea  Dios,  S''nor,^^  she  exclaimed,  '-'-jpero  he'  listed  que 
habla  jper-fau-ta-mente  como  nosotrd'  inesTud'  T  ("TJie 
Lord  be  praised  I    Well !  if  he  don't  talk  as  well  as 


THE     POSADA     AT     GUALQUI.  15 

we  do  ourselves!")  The  compliment  was  a  doubtful 
one. 

The  "posada"  was  built  of  cane,  plastered  over 
with  mud  and  thatched  with  straw.  It  contained 
two  rooms,  the  one  occupied  as  a  green-grocery  for 
the  sale  of  tobacco,  candles,  jerked-beef,  etc.,  the 
other  intended  for  guests.  The  latter  was  about  fif- 
teen feet  square,  with  no  other  floor  than  the  ground. 
The  walls  were  without  whitewash,  and  overhead  there 
was  no  ceiling,  but  the  bare  rafters  were  begrimed 
with  soot  and  festooned  with  dusty  cobwebs.  The 
low  door  alone  admitted  light;  and  furniture  there 
was  none,  except  a  rude  frame  in  one  corner,  covered 
with  a  bull-hide,  and  intended  as  a  bedstead. 

On  entering  tlie  house  we  were  struck  by  a  peculiar 
and  rather  unpleasant  odor  that  arose  from  the  grind- 
ing of  toasted  wheat,  a  process  which  a  strapping 
fellow  was  carrying  on  in  the  middle  of  the  room. 
He  knelt  upon  the  floor,  bending  over  a  flat  stone 
about  two  feet  long  and  one  broad,  the  end  of  which, 
nearest  to  him,  was  raised  at  such  an  angle  as  to 
allow  the  meal  to  slide  down  freely  into  the  sheep- 
skin placed  beneath  for  its  reception.  At  his  side 
lay  a  pile  of  wheat,  from  which  he  fed  his  mill ;  then 
grasping  with  both  hands  a  small,  stone  roller,  he 
propelled  it  briskly  backward  and  forward  with  a  roll- 
ing motion,  which  allowed  the  ground  meal  to  escape, 
and  brought  a  fresh  supply  of  grain  continually  under 
the  grinder.  Judging  from  the  torrents  of  perspira- 
tion that  flowed  from  the  fellow's  forehead,  it  was  no 
easy  work. 

Every  now  and  then  some  dirty  little  imp,  witli 


16  THE     A  R  A  U  C  A  N  I  A  N  S. 

more  or  less  of  an  apology  for  a  shirt  on,  would  rush 
in,  grab  a  handful  of  the  meal,  stir  it  up  in  a  cup  of 
water,  and  drink  it  off.  This  beverage,  called  "ulpo," 
is  much  used  hj  the  poorer  classes  throughout  south- 
em  Chili  as  a  substitute  for  bread,  which  at  a  dis- 
tance from  the  towns  is  seldom  met  with. 

In  a  small  shed  outside,  the  wheat  was  being 
toasted  in  an  earthen  dish  over  a  hot  fire ;  a  ragged 
girl,  squatting  on  her  haunches  among  the  ashes,  was 
briskly  stirring  the  grain  to  prevent  it  from  burning. 

Our  supper  was  a  real  "  casuela  de  ave" — the  best 
dish  that  can  be  had  in  Chili — and  one  which,  I  ver- 
ily believe,  can  be  had  nowhere  else.  A  chicken 
broth  with  such  a  savory  mixture  of  onions,  potatoes, 
and  other  things  too  numerous  to  mention,  it  never 
entered  into  the  head  of  a  "gringo"  to  imagine.  The 
only  drawback  is  the  delay  of  at  least  two  hours 
which  the  hungry  man  is  always  obliged  to  endure. 

My  pack-saddle  and  boxes  were  converted  into  table 
and  chairs ;  spread  there  was  none ;  neither  did  the 
establishment  boast  such  a  thing  as  a  plate,  but  the 
huge  dish  was  accompanied  by  an  iron  spoon,  and 
nothing  more  was  necessary. 

That  we  might  not  be  in  utter  darkness,  our  land- 
lady brought  a  candle.  As  there  was  no  candlestick, 
we  were  at  loss  to  know  where  she  would  put  it ;  but 
dexterously  tipping  the  soft  tallow  dip,  and  letting 
the  grease  run  down  one  side  for  a  moment,  she 
dabbed  it  suddenly  against  the  rough  mud  wall,  and 
there  it  stuck.  The  flare  of  the  unsteady  light  dis- 
closed, in  all  directions,  spots  of  grease,  drippings, 
and  waving  lines  of  smoke  upon  the  wall,  showing 


PREPARATION     OF     MATE.  17 

that  the  lady's  feat,  however  surprising,  was  nothing 
new. 

The  supper  was  followed  by  "mate."  As  this 
beverage  is  peculiar  to  South  America,  the  method  of 
preparing  it  deserves  a  description.  A  pan  of  burn- 
ing charcoal  was  brought  in,  and  on  it  water  was  set 
to  boil  in  the  "tacho,"  a  small  copper  jug.  The 
_  hostess  followed  with  a  tin  box  having  two  parti- 
P  tions,  the  one  containing  sugar,  the  other  filled  with 
the  "yerba"  (Paraguay  tea).  A  small  gourd  and  a 
"bombilla"  (a  tin  tube  with  a  perforated  bulb)  com- 
pleted her  armament. 

Sitting  down  upon  the  floor,  the  old  woman  fans 
the  fire  with  her  petticoat  until  the  water  boils ;  a 
live  coal  is  dropped  into  the  sugar  to  burn  it;  the 
bombilla  is  placed  in  the  gourd ;  a  handful  of  the  tea 
foUows ;  a  lump  of  burnt  sugar  is  thrown  in  atop ; 
and  over  all  is  poured  the  boiling  water.  After  a  pull 
at  the  bombilla  to  see  if  all  is  right,  the  beverage  is 
passed  to  the  person  of  most  importance  present.  If 
you  have  ever  sucked  a  sherry  cobbler  through  a 
straw,  you  wiU  soon  get  in  the  way  of  drinking 
"  mate ;"  but,  while  yet  a  novice,  beware  of  scalding 
your  mouth ! 

Mate  is  universally  used  in  the  country ;  but  among 
people  in  better  circumstances  much  more  decorum  is 
observed  in  its  preparation,  and  the  utensils  are  gen- 
^^  erally  of  silver,  often  of  the  most  aristocratic  preten- 
^Kfiions.  In  the  cities,  tea  and  cofiee  are  entirely  sup- 
^B  planting  the  more  national  mate  in  wealthy  circles,  yet 
^Kmany  of  the  old  school  stiU  cling  to  it  "  sub  rosa." 
^B     The  Paraguay  tea  has  many  properties  in  common 


18  THEARAUCANIANS. 

with  the  Chinese  plant,  and  when  well  prepared  is  a 
very  agreeable  substitute. 

Whoever  travels  through  the  interior  of  Chili  must 
always  carry  an  "  almofrer,"  which  is  essential  alike 
to  comfort  and  respectability.  The  "  almofrez,"  is  a 
leather  sack,  large  enough  to  hold  a  mattress  and  bed- 
ding (which  are  not  to  be  had  at  the  country  inns), 
witli  smaller  articles  useful  on  the  way.  It  is  easily 
packed  upon  the  mules,  protects  the  bedding  from  rain, 
and  serves  at  night  as  a  temporary  bedstead.  It  is 
true  the  room,  in  this  case,  contained  something  that 
was  evidently  made  to  sleep  on,  but  it  had  a  very 
suspicious  look,  suggestive  of  vermin,  and  I  much  pre- 
ferred making  up  my  bed  on  the  ground. 

The  candle  still  stuck  upon  the  wall,  and,  half  doz- 
ing, I  lay  watching  its  countless  freaks.  It  would 
flash  up  and  then  burn  low,  flare,  flicker,  sputter,  and 
almost  expire ;  then  suddenly  blaze  up  again.  What 
with  the  greasy  stalactites  on  the  wall,  the  varying 
shadows  of  the  sooty  cobwebs  hanging  from  the  dingy 
roof,  and  the  continual  drip,  drip,  drip,  of  the  tallow 
on  the  floor,  like  trickling  waters,  I  could  almost 
fency  myself  dancing  through  some  subterranean  cav- 
ern, led  by  a  "will  o'  the  wisp."  Suddenly  there 
was  a  grand  flash,  flare,  sputter,  spit,  and  blaze,  like 
the  finale  of  an  opera  or  the  winding  up  of  a  display  of 
fii'e-works,  and  all  was  darkness. 

My  guide  slept  outside  in  the  open  air,  in  company 
with  a  couple  of  "arrieros"  (muleteers),  who,  with  their 
troop,  were  on  the  way  to  Concepcion. 

The  hardiness  and  perfect  system  of  these  travelers 
by  profession  makes  them  worthy  of  study,  and  m  no- 


THEARRIEROS.  19 

tiling  more  so  than  in  their  dispositions  for  the  night. 
At  the  end  of  a  day's  journey  their  first  care  is  for  the 
animals ;  then  they  arrange  their  packs,  with  a  view  not 
only  to  the  safety  of  the  goods  but  also  to  their  own 
comfort.  The  most  heavy  and  unwieldy  articles  are 
piled  up  so  as  to  form  a  scientific  barricade  and  a  pro- 
tection against  the  wind,  while  smaller  packages  are 
placed  within  reach  of  the  men,  who  always  lie  about  in 
such  positions  that  everything  is  under  somebody's  eye. 

If  the  arriero  is  fortunate  enough  to  get  a  supper, 
he  gorges  himself,  like  the  anaconda,  uncertain  when 
he  may  have  another  meal ;  if  nothing  is  to  be  had, 
and  his  saddle-bags  furnish  no  remnants  of  the  last 
repast,  he  tightens  up  his  sash,  smokes  a  cigarito,  and 
is  content. 

For  a  bed  he  never  wants.  The  native  saddle  is 
composed  of  about  a  dozen  sheepskins,  one  half  of 
which  are  placed  over  a  rude  tree,  and  the  other  half 
beneath.  These  skins,  spread  upon  the  ground,  form 
a  soft  resting-place ;  the  tree  is  the  pillow,  and  wrap- 
ping himself  in  the  never-failing  poncho,  his  only 
blanket,  the  wearied  rider,  with  pantaloons  and  boots 
on,  stretches  himself  out  with  no  other  canopy  than 
the  blue  sky. 

Is  there  the  slightest  noise  during  the  stillness  of 
the  night — does  a  footstep  approach,  he  is  on  the  alert 
in  an  instant,  and  his  formidable  "machete"  (a  long 
^knife)  is  always  at  hand. 

With  the  first  rays  of  the  morning  he  is  up.  He 
las  no  dressing  to  do,  no  toilet  to  make — that  is  to 
say,  he  does  not  make  it — but  starts  in  search  of  his 

limals,  and  is  soon  ready  for  another  day's  march. 


CHAPTER    11. 

The  Coast  Range. — ^The  Lunatic. — Treatment  of  the  Insane. — Chil- 
ian "  Sleepy  Hollow." — The  Frenchman. — ^A  live  Yankee. 

LeavinGt  Gualqui  the  road  strikes  oiF  over  what  is 
usually  known  as  the  "  coast  range."  To  the  north- 
ward the  mountains  composing  this  range  are  divided 
into  parallel  ridges  with  extended  intervening  plains ; 
but  in  this  latitude  they  are  all  blended  together. 
ContinuaQy  you  are  engaged  in  winding  and  climb- 
ing, ascending  and  descending  a  wilderness  of  hills, 
whose  very  confusion  produces  a  monotony  irksome 
alike  to  body  and  mind.  Gazing  from  some  lofty 
point  you  feel  lost  amidst  the  interminable  disorder  of 
ups  and  downs,  with  no  clew  by  which  to  ascertain 
the  points  of  the  compass.  Even  the  occasional  view 
of  finely-wooded  summits  and  smiling  valleys,  or  the 
glimpse  of  some  little  stream  dancing  along  noisily 
toward  the  sea,  could  not  relieve  the  tedium  of  the 
journey. 

The  soil  is  red,  and  appears  to  be  composed  almost 
entirely  of  disintegrating  granite — so  friable,  that  with 
each  heavy  rain  it  washes  down,  leaving  huge  gullies 
in  the  hillsides.  In  many  places  we  found  yawning 
chasms,  two  or  three  hundred  feet  in  depth,  stretch- 
ing up  on  either  side,  so  as  to  leave  barely  room  for 
a  horse  to  pass,  and  threatening  with  the  next  shower 
to  swallow  up  the  road  itself. 


THE     LUNATIC.  21 

This  frequently  happens,  and  the  traveler,  unac- 
quainted with  the  "changes  of  the  times,"  will  some- 
times find  all  fiirther  advance  cut  off  hj  a  vast  gulf 
gaping  before  him,  on  the  other  side  of  which  the 
road  winds  on  toward  his  destination. 

Near  a  house  by  the  roadside  a  large  cross,  some 
fifteen  feet  high,  attracted  our  attention.  While  con- 
jecturing what  it  might  mean,  a  powerfiilly- built 
young  man,  with  the  hair  of  his  head  cropped  un- 
fashionably  short,  came  running  out,  entreating  us  to 
aid  liim  in  annihilating  certain  Jews,  Turks,  infidels, 
and  heretics  that  were  endeavoring  to  overthrow  the 
true  religion. 

He  accompanied  this  request  with  an  attempt  to 
possess  himself  of  a  huge  dragoon  sword  which  my 
trusty  squire  carried  by  his  side.  We  anticipated 
some  difficulty ;  but  the  heretics  and  Turks,  half  a 
dozen  in  number,  came  to  the  rescue,  and  bore  the 
religious  enthusiast  away. 

They  had  forced  him  nearly  to  the  house  when, 
bursting  from  them,  he  ran  to  the  cross,  embraced  it 
for  a  moment,  and  then  turning,  showered  a  volley  of 
kicks  and  blows  upon  the  persecuting  unbelievers. 

The  last  we  saw  of  the  poor  lunatic,  the  whole 
party  had  thrown  him  to  the  ground,  and  were  pom- 
meling him  ta  their  heart's  content. 

This  method  of  curing  madness  brought  to  my 
mind  an  incident  that  happened  at  a  small  country 
village  in  another  part  of  Chili.  The  wife  of  the  inn- 
keeper at  whose  "posada"  we  stopped  had  become 
crazed,  and,  among  other  things  calculated  to  trouble 
an   affectionate   husband,   would   occasionally   mani- 


22  THEARAUCANIANS. 

fest  a  disposition  to  sit  in  the  lap  of  perfect  stran- 
gers. 

The  landlord  was  a  coarse,  hurly  man,  with  no 
very  pleasant  expression,  and  apparently  morose; 
but  under  the  soothing  effects  of  a  mate  (at  our  ex- 
pense), his  heart  would  soften,  and  he  loved  to  dwell 
upon  his  immerous  afflictions,  the  principal  of  which 
was  the  melancholy  condition  of  his  wife.  "But," 
he  would  conclude,  lifting  his  eyes  devoutly,  "this  is 
but  one  of  the  many  crosses  which,  in  this  world,  we 
are  all  destined  to  bear!"  There  was  a  solemnity  in 
his  air,  implying  patient  endurance  under  suffering, 
that  impressed  us  deeply. 

A  chuckle-headed  fellow,  who  happened  to  be  pres- 
ent, ventured  to  recommend  to  mine  host  v?.rious  cur- 
atives, declaring  that  he  had  known  a  lunatic,  in  his 
own  parish,  to  receive  great  benefit  from  the  applica- 
tion to  liis  cranium  of  a  mixture  of  ass's  ?nilk,  and 
the  Hood  from  a  mare's  earl 

"No,  Seiior!"  exclaimed  the  afflicted  saint,  turn- 
ing indignantly  upon  the  intruder.      "I  have  tried 
every  thing ;  there  is  but  one  course  to  be  pursued. 
Dele  ]penca^  Senor  ;  es  un  santo  remedio  T   ("Give  -W 
her  a  sound  drubbing,  Sir ;  it  is  an  infallible  remedy.")     J 

When  it  is  remembered  that  the  "penca"  is  a 
heavy  lash  of  braided  hide  attached  to  the  reins  of  a 
horse,  and  intended  not  only  as  a  whip,  but  also  as 
an  effective  weapon,  the  excellence  of  the  cuie  can 
not  be  doubted. 

Until  very  recently  there  was  no  separate  provision 
in  Chili  for  the  insane.  Some  few  were  admitted  to 
the  hospitals ;  but  they  were  treated  with  ^o  much 


TREATMENT  OF  THE  INSANE.     23 

harshness,  and  allowed  to  live  in  such  a  filthy  man- 
ner, that  it  may  well  be  doubted  whether  their  con- 
dition was  bettered  or  made  worse.  Incorrigible 
maniacs,  if  belonging  to  wealthy  families,  were  sent 
to  the  mad-house  in  Lima — if  poor,  they  were  fre- 
quently chained  in  the  prison. 

On  one  of  the  principal  streets  of  Santiago  is  still 
pointed  out  a  window,  six  feet  or  more  from  the 
pavement,  closely  grated,  and  covered  with  a  wire 
screen.  Within  is  a  small  room  where,  for  several 
years,  a  raging  madman  was  confined.  His  food  was 
thrown  to  him  through  the  iron  bars,  as  to  a  wild 
beast ;  egress  was  denied  him ;  he  became  more  and 
more  furious,  and  finally  died  in  this  den,  amidst  the 
filth  accumulated  during  his  long  confinement. 

Once,  as  a  woman  was  passing,  he  climbed  to  the 
window,  extended  his  arm,  and  catching  hold  of  her 
braided  locks,  hauled  her  up  to  the  bars,  where  she 
hung  struggling  and  screaming  until  cut  .down,  when 
she  ran  off,  glad  to  escape  with  only  the  loss  of  her 
hair. 

Thanks  to  the  spirit  of  the  age,  these  relics  of 
mediaeval  barbarism  are  fast  disappearing.  There 
now  exists  in  the  capital  an  Insane  Asylum,  con- 
ducted like  similar  institutions  in  Europe ;  may  it 
prove  the  precursor  of  other  establishments  equally 
useful.  The  blind,  the  deaf,  and  the  dumb,  are  still 
uncared  for;  nor  can  the  present  government  in  any 
way  more  highly  justify  its  claim  to  an  enliglitened 
liberality  than  by  establishing  such  charitable  insti- 
tutions as  are  wanting,  and  thoroughly  remodeling 
those  which  at  present  exist. 


M  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

We  crossed  several  brooks,  the  principal  of  which 
was  the  Quilacoga,  passing  through  a  fine  estate  of 
the  same  name.  Further  on  we  came  to  the  Gomero, 
a  small  streamlet  running  through  the  fertile  valley 
of  Talcamavida,  described  by  the  poet  as 

"  Valle  de  Talcamavida  importante, 
De  pastes  y  comidas  abundante." 

Night  was  now  coming  on — the  roads  were  danger- 
ous to  travel  after  sunset — we  were  tired,  and  we  de- 
termined to  halt  and  beg  lodgings  on  the  neighboring 
estate.  The  place  itself  is  unusually  inviting ;  for, 
in  addition  to  its  pleasant  appearance,  it  bears  a 
"  Sleepy  Hollow"  reputation  peculiarly  attractive  to 
weary  travelers. 

Not  far  from  here  it  was,  according  to  Ercilla,  that 
a  haughty  Indian  chief  performed  the  wonderful  feat 
of  sleeping  for  three  nights  and  two  days  on  a  stretch. 
After  describing  the  arrival  of  the  chieftain  from  the 
wars,  the  poet  goes  on  to  state  that  he  ordered  a  sup- 
per to  be  prepared,  and  retiring  to  his  couch,  remained 

"  Deep  buried  in  a  slumber  so  profound, 

As  though  a  thousand  years  he  had  been  dead, 
Until  the  sun  three  times  had  journeyed  round 
The  earth,  when,  rising  from  his  bed — 

*  What  ho,  ye  slaves !  bring  forth  my  garments,*  said  he, 

*  And  tell  me,  is  the  meal  I  ordered  ready  ?' 
The  servant  answered — *  If  I  may  be  bold,  Sir, 
Your  dinner  after  cooking  has  got  cold.  Sir ! 
For  you  have  slept,  without  as  much  as  winking, 

Full  fifty  hours,  forgetful  of  your  toils. 
Taking  no  care  for  eating  or  for  drinking,' "  etc. 

On  receiving  this  information,  the  Indian  expressed 
no  surprise,  but  stated  that  during  fifteen  consecutive 
days  he  had  not  closed  his  eyes,  for  reasonfe  all  of 


THE     FRENCHMAN.  25 

which  are  faithfully  recorded  by  the  garrulous  old 
chronicler. 

The  overseer  of  the  estate  proved  to  be  a  French- 
man. He  was  overjoyed  to  find  some  one  that  could 
converse  in  his  own  tongue,  and  invited  us  to  spend 
the  night  at  his  quarters.  Some  tough  jerked-beef, 
with  an  omelet  of  my  own  cooking,  made  a  tolerable 
supper. 

The  meal  was  washed  down  with  some  bad  wine, 
and  a  good  deal  of  worse  French — for  I  was  getting 
sadly  rusty.  In  spite  of  every  precaution  a  Spanish 
word  would  occasionally  slip  in  with  just  sufficient 
change  to  give  it  a  Gallic  jingle,  and  cheat  me  for  a 
moment  into  the  idea  that  I  was  speaking  the  true 
Parisian.  These  blunders  the  Frenchman  charitably 
overlooked  in  his  anxiety  to  hear  the  news  firom  Eu- 
rope, and  it  was  a  late  hour  before  I  could  get  away 
from  him  to  my  bed,  which  had  been  made  up  on 
a  hide  in  the  store-house,  amidst  a  confusion  of 
bags  of  grain,  barrels  of  beans,  wine-jars,  and  jerked 
beef. 

Next  morning  when  pay  was  offered  to  the  over- 
seer, he  refused  it  as  only  a  Frenchman  could;  but, 
in  the  same  breath,  hinted  that  a  few  rials  might 
prove  acceptable  to  the  cook.     She  did  not  decline. 

I  This  cook,  by  the  way,  was  evidently  the  overseer's 
wife — or  ought  to  have  been — and  was  about  as  low 
and  dirty  a  specimen  of  the  common  class  as  he  could 
^ell  have  selected.  He  did  not  seem  ambitious  to 
raise  her  to  his  own  level ;  on  the  contrary,  he  was 
fast  sinking  to  hers.  It  is  not  uncommon  for  other 
foreigners  to  form  such  alliances,  but  they  generally 


26  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

strive  to  elevate  their  mates.  Not  so  the  French,  who 
usually  fall  from  their  own  position,  and  seem  to  as- 
similate with  their  inferiors  in  manners  and  refinement 
more  rapidly  than  any  other  people. 

Riding  along  we  were  struck  by  the  appearance  of 
a  small  house,  which,  though  humble,  was  as  un- 
Chilian  as  possible.  The  walls  were  whitewashed ; 
the  windows  were  glazed,  and  actually  provided  with 
blinds ;  a  row  of  brightly-scoured  tin  pans  were  glis- 
tening in  the  sun,  and  hard-by  grunted  a  fat  porker, 
tied  to  a  stake  in  the  ground. 

A  fair-haired  child,  neatly  dressed  and  wearing  a 
sun-bonnet,  came  running  out  of  the  house,  followed 
by  a  tidy,  rosy-cheeked  woman,  also  wearing  a  sun- 
bonnet.  There  was  something  so  characteristic  about 
them,  especially  the  sun-bonnets,  that  I  felt  convinced 
they  must  be  Americans,  and  was  half  inclined  to  stop 
and  inquire.  ^ 

A  little  further  on  we  came  to  a  flour-mill.  Out 
of  the  second  story  window  protruded  a  long,  shrewd 
face.  A  profusion  of  yellow  locks  was  tucked  behind 
the  ears,  while  a  tall,  shapeless  white  beaver  was 
cocked  back  at  a  sufficient  angle  to  display  a  high, 
expansive  forehead.  A  pair  of  lank  arms  and  long 
bony  hands  completed  the  picture  of  one  who  was 
unmistakably  engaged  in  some  deep  calculation. 

He  was  evidently  the  owner  of  the  house  we  had 
passed,  and  turning  my  horse  I  rode  up  to  the  mill 
and  addressed  him  in  Spanish.  His  reply  was  very 
characteristic — "Jl/^  no  intendy.^''  Dropping  the  Span- 
ish, I  continued,  "  I  guess  you  ain't  a  Yankee  ?"  The 
head  popped  in  with  an  exclamation,  "Wal,  I»  ain't 


\ 


ALIVEYANKEE.  27 

any  thing  else !"  and  in  a  moment  he  was  down  stairs 
at  the  door„ 

The  poor  fellow  was  delighted  to  meet  a  fellow- 
countryman,  and  pressed  us  to  stop  for  dinner. 

"My  wife  will  be  glad  to  see  you,"  he  said,  "and 
I'll  give  you  such  a  dish  of  corned-beef  and  cabbage 
as  you  haven't  seen  for  many  a  day." 

The  invitation  was  a  tempting  one,  but  as  the 
guide  had  gone  on,  and  the  mule-bell  was  sounding 
faint  in  the  distance,  I  was  obliged  to  decline. 

I  felt  proud  of  my  country  as  I  shook  the  honest 
Yankee  by  the  hand.     Far  away  from  home,  cut  off, 
as  it  were,  from  the  world,  his  lot  seemed  a  hard  one ; 
but  unless  the  man's  looks  very  much  belied  his  char- 
acter, a  few  years  would  produce  great  changes  in  his 
circumstances  ;  in  shrewdness  and  energy  he  possess- 
ed the  elements  of  success ;  in  the  burden  of  a  fam- 
ily he  had  both  an  incentive  to  exertion  and  a  solace. 
To  the  young  foreigner  who  seeks  by  the  labor  of 
his  hands  to  acquire  wealth  upon  this  coast,  it  is  all- 
important  that  he   should  come  accompanied  by  a 
partner,  alike  willing  and  able  to  share  his  toils  and 
comfort  him  in  adversity.      He  must  have  a  home 
and  society  that  will  render  him,  in  a  measure,  inde- 
pendent of  the  world      Many  bright  hopes  have  been 
dashed  for  want  of  such  resources. 
^^       The  stranger  arriving  poor  and  friendless,  will  look 
^^B  in  vain  for  that  society  to  which  he  has  been  ac- 
^^B  customed  at  home.      Only  by  time  and  patient  in- 
v^m  dustry  can  he  acquire  a  social  position.     If  of  a  gen- 
^^B  erous  and  impulsive  nature,  the  want  of  that  sympa- 
^^B  thy  so  necessary  to  the  human  heart,  added  to  the 

I 


28  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

feeling  of  pride  that  leads  us  to  contemn  those  by 
whom  we  deem  ourselves  neglected,  may  induce  him 
to  form  unworthy  associations,  and  ere  he  is  fully 
aware  of  the  danger,  he  may  be  drawn  into  some  en- 
tangling alliance,  which  will  continually  drag  him 
down,  and  prevent  his  ever  attaining  that  high  standing 
in  society  which  he  might  otherwise  have  gained. 


CHAPTEE    III. 

Yumbel. — The  Valdiviano. — Volcanic  Sand. — The  Eecruiting  Sta- 
tion.— Kio  Claro. — Singular  Embankment. — Search  for  Lodgings. 
— ^Distant  View  of  Antuco. — ^Falls  of  the  Laja. 

After  a  ride  of  four  or  five  hours  we  reached  an 
elevated  point,  where  a  magnificent  view  burst  sud- 
denly upon  our  sight. 

Before  us  lay  the  great  central  plain  of  Chili ;  be- 
yond rose  the  lengthened  Cordillera,  where  proudly 
domineered  the  snowy  Chilian,  sublimely  beautiful 
with  its  graceful  dome,  and  the  rugged  Sierra  Velluda, 
with  the  neighboring  cone  of  Antuco  wrapped  in  clouds. 
While  to  the  north  and  south  the  pinnacles  of  Lon- 
eair,  the  truncated  Descaberado,  and  the  peaks  of 
Santa  Barbara,  with  other  summits  distant  and  more 
dimly  visible,  rose  like  islands  above  the  blue  horizon 
of  the  plain,  rolling  onward  like  the  sea. 

It  is  true  that  the  highest  mountains  in  this  part 
of  Chili  are  far  inferior,  in  actual  elevation,  to  many 
of  those  at  the  north ;  in  fact  the  whole  range  of  the 
Andes  gradually  lowers  as  it  runs  toward  the  south, 
until  swallowed  up  in  the  ocean  at  Cape  Horn;  but 
the  prominent  southern  peaks  are  by  far  the  more 
striking  in  appearance;  they  tower  more  above  the 
general  mass,  their  greatness  appeals  to  the  eye,  while 
that  of  their  more  northern  brethren  addresses  itself 
to  the  understanding. 

Descending  into  the  plain  we  soon  readaed  Yumbel% 


30  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

This  town  is  laid  out  in  regular  squares,  with  one- 
story  houses,  built  of  sun-burnt  brick,  and  roofed 
with  tile.  It  has  an  "  alameda,"  or  promenade,  and 
boasts  a  "plaza  de  annas,"  or  public  square,  faced 
on  two  sides  by  the  church  and  barracks,  and  on  the 
other  two  by  stores  and  dwellings.  There  is  doubt- 
less a  convent,  and  probably  a  chain-gang  to  repair 
the  streets.  In  a  word,  it  is — ^like  all  other  towns  in 
the  country — a  small  edition  of  Santiago.  But  though 
the  capital  of  the  province  of  Here,  its  general  appear- 
ance was  in  no  way  prepossessing. 

We  inquired  for  the  "posada,"  but  were  informed 
that  though  there  was  once  a  "  cafe"  in  the  place,  it 
had  been  given  up  for  want  of  custom  ;  and  the  pros- 
pect was  that  we  should  be  obliged  to  ride  on  din- 
nerless  until  night. 

Half  hoping  somebody  might  be  found  hospitably 
disposed,  I  rode  into  several  of  the  best  houses  to 
make  inquiries,  but  received  no  greater  satisfaction 
than  a  shrug  of  the  shoulders,  accompanied  by  the 
polite  regret  that  the  town  could  not  furnish  any  ac- 
commodations for  strangers. 

At  last  a  lady,  more  considerate  than  the  rest,  sug- 
gested that,  at  the  further  end  of  the  street,  some  poor 
people  might  be  found,  who  would  be  happy  to  cook 
us  a  meal  for  a  few  rials.  The  hint  was  a  valuable 
one,  and  was  of  course  taken. 

Just  on  the  outskirts  there  was  a  collection  of  mis- 
erable huts,  and  we  succeeded  in  ferreting  out  an  old 
woman,  who  was  willing  and  able  to  provide  for  our 
wants. 

The  hovel  was  dirty  enough,  and  having  no  desire 


THE     VALDIVIANO.  31 

to  spoil  my  appetite  by  seeing  the  cooking  done,  I 
started  for  some  apple  trees  which  stood  near  by,  and 
throwing  down  my  poncho  in  the  shade,  composed 
myself  for  a  siesta.  After  an  hour's  sleep  dinner  was 
announced,  and  entering  the  house  I  found  a  box 
which  appeared  to  be  a  bushel  measure,  spread  with 
a  dirty  towel  and  crowned  by  a  steaming  "Yaldi- 
viano." 

The  "  Yaldiviano,"  which  is  a  national  dish  with 
the  Chilenos,  is  made  of  jerked  beef,  cooked  up  into  a 
hash  with  a  variety  of  vegetables,  the  most  essential 
of  which  is  the  onion.  This  savory  mess  is  easily 
made,  and  extremely  palatable  to  the  hungry  traveler. 
To  a  delicate  stomach  it  might  prove  repugnant,  but 
a  ride  of  some  twenty  miles  over  a  rough  road,  on  a 
hard  trotting  horse,  is  an  unfailing  cure  for  fastidious- 
ness. 

The  table  scarcely  reached  to  my  knees,  as  I  sat 
upon  the  high  bench  that  ran  round  the  room ;  but 
after  inviting  each  person  present  in  true  Spanish 
style  to  partake  of  the  meal — an  invitation  which  was, 
of  course,  declined — I  fell  to  without  farther  cere- 
mony. A  huge  horn  tumbler  ftdl  of  wine,  and  a  plate 
of  olives  followed. 

The  olive  in  Chili  is  seldom  eaten  green  and  in 
pickle,  as  it  comes  to  us  from  Spain,  but  ripe  and  in 
the  oil ;  it  is  a  fruit  of  which  most  persons  become 
fond  when  once  accustomed  to  its  use,  though  there 
are  but  few  strangers  who  relish  it  upon  first  trial. 

Leaving  Yumbel,  we  started  in  a  southeasterly 
direction  to  visit  the  Falls  of  the  Laja. 

The  road  for  most  of  the  way  lay  over  a  plain  com- 


32  THEARAUCANIANS. 

posed  of  a  black,  almost  impassable  volcanic  sand, 
that  shifts  about  with  the  wind,  and  is  piled  up  at 
short  intervals  into  small  hillocks. 

This  sandy  waste  is  a  feature  of  unusual  geological 
interest,  especially  when  considered  in  connection  with 
the  vast  layers  of  tufa  and  scoria  found  in  other  parts 
of  the  same  plain. 

The  traveler,  however  little  acquainted  with  science, 
can  not  fail  to  be  deeply  impressed  by  these  great 
records,  so  clearly  indicating  a  comparatively  recent 
period  of  vast  volcanic  activity.  The  frequent  spas- 
modic tremblings  of  the  earth,  driving  the  frightened 
inhabitants  from  their  houses,  and  sometimes  strew- 
ing their  cities  in  the  dust — the  occasional  faint  smoke 
from  distant  and  almost  extinguished  craters — the 
unmistakable  evidences  presented  by  the  coast  that 
the  country  is  still  being  uplifted  from  the  sea,  all 
prove  that  the  internal  fire  is  not  yet  extinct ;  but 
when  we  compare  its  present  feeble  efforts  with  former 
achievements,  in  piling  up  the  majestic  Andes  like 
Pelion  on  Ossa,  till  they  reached  the  very  skies,  they 
seem  like  the  struggles  of  a  dying  giant,  crushed  be- 
neath the  vast  mass  raised  by  his  own  once  powerftil 
hand. 

The  plain  was  scattered  with  coarse  stunted  bushes, 
over  which  twined  innumerable  creepers  bearing  a 
large  red  flower,  lighting  up  with  a  smile  the  sur- 
rounding desolation. 

In  the  midst  of  this  wilderness  of  sand  we  came 
upon  a  rude  tent,  with  a  flag  flying  in  front,  and  a 
sentinel  under  arms.  As  we  approached,  a  fierce-look- 
ing character  with  red  pantaloons,  a  handkerchief'tied 


) 


THE     RECKUITING     STATION.  33 

round  his  head,  and  a  sabre  dangling  in  his  hand, 
stepped  forth  and  eyed  us  for  a  moment.  A  number 
of  tatterdemalions,  all  very  red  from  exposure  to  the 
sun,  were  lying  about  with  guns  and  swords,  but 
without  uniform  of  any  description. 

The  inscription  upon  the  flag  told  the  whole  story. 
The  officer — for  such  was  the  man  with  the  red  pan- 
taloons— ^was  recruiting  for  the  cavalry,  and  had  posted 
himself  here  as  a  place  where  he  would  be  likely  to 
pick  up  vagabonds  fit  food  for  gunpowder. 

The  whole  group  had  more  the  appearance  of  ban- 
ditti than  of  soldiers,  and  brought  forcibly  to  mind 
the  renown  of  this  spot,  which,  according  to  popular 
tradition,  was  once  infested  by  lurking  desperadoes  as 
wild  and  untraceable  among  these  shifting  hillocks  as 
the  roving  Bedouins  amidst  the  sands  of  the  desert. 
Whether  the  stories  we  heard  ever  had  any  other 
foundation  than  the  gloomy  impression  which  such 
solitudes  are  apt  to  produce  upon  the  minds  of  an 
imaginative  people  we  did  not  stop  to  inquire,  but 
believed  implicitly  in  the  famed  "  montaneros"  of  the 
"  Arenal,"  willing  to  credit  any  thing  that  could  throw 
a  tinge  of  romance  around  the  journey 

The  traveling  through  the  sand  was  heavy  and  tire- 
some to  the  horses  and  unpleasant  to  the  rider,  owing 
to  the  clouds  of  impalpable  dust  rising  with  every 
puff  of  wind.  This  continued  until  we  reached  the 
Rio  Claro,  a  small,  clear  stream  (as  the  name  implies), 
running  over  a  wide  bed,  and  frequently  changing  its 
channel. 

i  Running  continuously  along  the  brink  of  the  north- 
ern bank  of  this  river,  was  a  singular  mound  of  sand, 


M  THE     AR  AUG  AN  IAN  S. 

thrown  up  to  the  height  of  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  with 
a  precision  and  regularity  that  gave  it  much  the  ap- 
pearance of  an  artificial  fortification.  It  was  probahly 
a  freak  of  contending  winds  blowing  over  the  plain 
and  up  the  bed  of  the  river. 

The  river  was  not  deep,  and  we  forded  without  dif- 
ficulty. The  sun  was  setting  when  we  reached  tlie 
Laja.  As  the  plain  was  a  dead  level,  we  saw  no  in- 
dications of  the  river  until  we  stood  upon  its  very 
brink,  except  a  few  trees  and  the  spray  wreathing 
up  from  the  falls. 

The  road  passes  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the 
falls ;  but  so  slight  is  the  curiosity  of  the  people  about 
such  matters,  that,  of  the  numbers  that  travel  this 
route,  few  turn  aside  to  see  one  of  the  finest  natural 
objects  in  Chili,  and  almost  the  only  one  of  the  kind. 
My  squire,  though  he  had  frequently  crossed  the  river, 
did  not  know  there  was  any  thing  there  to  be  seen, 
and  grumbled  when  I  proposed  stopping  over  night. 

We  did  not  see  the  falls  until  actually  standing 
upon  the  rock  overhanging  the  abyss  into  which  the 
river  plunges.  The  last  rays  of  the  setting  sun  thi-ew 
a  bright  bow  over  the  spray,  which  rose  like  smoke 
from  the  surface  of  the  stream ;  beneath,  all  was  dark 
— ^but  a  sullen  roar  told  of  the  fierce  struggles  going  on 
beneath  our  feet,  and  gave,  perhaps,  a  more  subhme 
impression  than  if  we  had  caught  our  first  view  in  the 
broad  light  of  noonday. 

A  few  rods  from  the  river  stood  a  small,  rude  mill, 
and  near  by  two  or  tlu-ee  "ranchos,"  up  to  which  we 
rode  in  search  of  lodgings. 

In  an  open  door-way  sat  a  rather  good-looking  wo- 


I 


SEAECH     FOR     LODGINGS.  35 

man,  who,  on  being  asked  if  we  could  pass  the  night 
there,  answered,  eying  us  suspiciously,  "  Quien  sabe! 
the  master  of  the  house  is  not  at  home." 

"  Can  you  give  us  any  thing  to  eat  ?" 

"I  think  not,  Seiior!" 

"  Have  you  no  chickens  ?" 

"No,  Seilor." 

"No  beef?" 

"No,  Senor." 

"  No  vegetables  ?" 

"No,  Senor." 

Now  it  so  happened  that  certain  feathery  things, 
looking  very  gallinaceous,  were  roosting  near  at  hand, 
while  the  small  garden-patch  behind  the  house  seemed 
to  be  well-stocked  with  onions  and  potatoes.  There 
was  here  a  strange  discrepancy  between  facts  and 
statements ;  but  having  been  similarly  situated  before, 
I  well  knew  what  to  do,  and  ordering  the  servant  to 
unload  the  mule,  and  turn  the  animals  into  the  "  cor- 
ral," I  sat  down  patiently  to  await  the  coming  of  the 
"  dueiio  de  casa." 

The  damsel  shrugged  her  shoulders  but  said  no- 
thing. Inhospitable  she  could  not  have  been,  for  the 
lower  class  of  Chilenos  never  are ;  but  she  probably 
dreaded  the  jealousy  of  her  lord,  and  feared  the  re- 
sponsibility of  extending  any  attention  to  strangers. 

The  man  of  the  house,  who,  with  his  family,  had 
been  off  farming  in  the  neighborhood,  soon  made  his 
appearance  driving-  a  dumpy,  little,  solid,  wheeled  ox- 
cart. He  received  us  very  hospitably,  assuring  us 
that  we  were  welcome  to  the  best  his  house  could  af- 
ford.     He  was  communicative,  intellia^ent,  more  in- 


36  THE     AEAUCANIANS. 

dependent  in  ids  opinions  than  most  of  Ins  class,  and 
aflforded  me  "botli  amusement  and  information. 

On  asking  him  about  the  volcano  of  Antuco,  then  in 
a  state  of  eruption,  he  informed  me  that  it  was  plainly 
visible,  and  oifered  to  lead  me  to  a  spot  from  which 
a  good  view  could  be  obtained. 

At  a  short  distance  from  the  house,  where  there 
were  no  intervening  trees,  the  volcano  burst  upon  us 
in  full  blast. 

The  night  was  dark,  the  mountains  were  enveloped 
in  clouds,  but  we  could  plainly  see  the  flames  playing 
about  the  vent,  and  occasionally  shooting  high  in  air; 
while  a  lurid  stream  of  lava,  like  a  river  of  molten 
iron,  poured  down  toward  the  plain.  At  intervals  it 
would  flash  and  writhe  like  a  snake,  as,  with  some 
new  eruption,  fresh  materials  were  added  to  the  burn- 
ing mass ;  and  the  overhanging  canopy  of  clouds 
would  glow  with  a  glare  like  that  of  the  distant  light- 
ning which  is  seen,  in  summer  evenings,  flashing  about 
the  horizon. 

The  grandeur  of  the  efiect  produced  was  heightened 
by  the  roar  of  the  Laja — singularly  in  unison  with 
the  scene — and  I  stood  lost  in  admiration,  until  my 
host  hinted  at  the  cold  wind  that  swept  down  from 
the  snowy  cordillera,  and  proposed  that  we  should 
return  to  the  house. 

A  smoking  "  casuela"  awaited  us,  into  whose  com- 
position, strange  to  say,  entered  nearly  all  the  nu- 
merous articles  whose  very  existence  the  lady  had  so 
flatly  denied. 

The  next  morning  was  spent  in  examining  the 
falls. 


I 


I 


FALLS     OF     THE     LA  J  A.  39 

The  plain  liere  is  covered  with  a  thin  overlying 
cloak  of  compact  lava,  which,  at  a  comparatively  re- 
cent geological  period,  must  have  flowed  from  some 
vent  in  the  chain  of  the  Andes — -probably  from  the 
volcano  of  Antuco,  at  a  time  when  much  more  active 
than  at  present.  The  Laja,  in  two  shallow  branches, 
runs  over  this  stratum,  and  at  its  termination  plunges 
down  a  depth  of  about  seventy  feet — wearing  narrow 
and  deep  channels,  for  several  miles,  until  the  various 
streams  reunite,  and  flow  on,  in  one  broad  river,  until 
lost  in  the  Bio-Bio. 

Accompanied  by  mine  host,  I  descended  into  the 
bed  of  the  river,  to  a  spot  from  which  could  be  seen 
both  falls  of  the  northern  branch,  which,  at  this  point, 
is  divided  by  a  small  island.  One  of  these  has  a 
horse-shoe  form,  and  the  effect  of  the  two  taken  to- 
gether is  not  unlike  Niagara  upon  a  small  scale. 

Just  below  the  island  the  waters  of  the  two  falls 
unite  and  msh  through  a  narrow  channel  worn  in  the 
rock,  seething  and  boiling  in  a  space  so  contracted 
that  I  was  almost  tempted  to  leap  across.  A  good 
English  hunter  might  have  cleared  it  with  ease. 

With  the  camera  lucida  I  managed  to  take  a  pretty 
accurate  sketch,  which  I  painted  roughly  on  the 
spot  with  water-colors  that  I  carried  rubbed  upon 
a  plate.  The  whole  operation  caused  considerable 
surprise  to  the  ''^native,''''  who  thought  that  I  was 
prying  into  the  hidden  mysteries  of  nature.  He  asked 
whether  I  had  discovered  treasui'es  in  the  depth  of 
the  river ;  and  wanted  to  know  if  the  blueness  of  the 
water  did  not  indicate  the  presence  of  gold.  I  tried 
to  make  explanations,  but  he  looked  incredulous,  and, 


40  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

though  too  polite  to  express  them,  evidently  had  his 
suspicions. 

Upon  the  southern  branch  of  the  Laja,  there  are 
also  two  falls — not  so  high  as  those  on  the  northern 
branch,  but  followed  by  a  succession  of  wild  rapids, 
and  well  worth  a  visit. 


CHAPTER    IV. 

Fording  Rivers. — Hanging  Bridges. — The  Donkey  "wot  wonldn^t 
go."— Getting  across. — Scenes  on  the  Road.— Politeness  of  the 
Natives. 

Some  distance  above  the  falls  we  found  the  Laja 
broad  and  shallow ;  and,  though  the  current  was* 
strong,  we  forded  without  difficulty. 

Most  of  the  rivers  in  the  interior  of  Chili  are  crossed 
in  this  manner^  but,  as  their  descent  to  the  sea  is 
rapid  and  their  velocity  great,  the  passage  is  often  at- 
tended with  difficulty  and  danger. 

The  stranger,  on  reaching  one  of  these  rivers,  should 

always  engage  the  services  of  some  of  the  natives, 

who,  by  constantly  crossing  and  recrossing,  become 

^skillfal  pilots.     The  merest  boy,  living  near  the  ford, 

[will  lead  you  safely  through  the  swollen  stream.     At 

the  word,  he  begins  operations  in  an  off-hand  way 

that  proves  how  perfectly  he  understands  his  busi- 

less. 

He  approaches  a  horse  and  slips  into  his  mouth  a 
"^halter,  to  serve  as  bit  and  bridle ;  a  lasso  is  thrown 
_about  the  neck  of  the  bell-mare,  then,  rolling  up  his 
dde  drawers,  he  swings  himself  by  the  mane  upon 
[the  horse's  bare  back,  and  plunges  in,  dragging  after 
dm  the  unwilling  mare.  First  he  tacks  up  the  stream, 
ithen  down,  now  straight  for  the  opposite  shore  ;  then, 
describing  a  curve,  he  proceeds  slowly,  looking  care- 
fully about,  noting  each  stone  and  every  curling  eddy. 


42  THE     AKAUCANIANS. 

As  he  sits  upon  the  startled  horse,  amidst  the  white 
foam  of  the  torrent — his  bare  legs  dangling  in  the  wa- 
ter, a  red  poncho  around  his  waist,  his  breast  and 
shoulders  naked,  and  his  matted  locks  blowing  about 
his  face,  while  his  black  eye  glances  cautiously  around 
— he  would  form  a  striking  picture  for  an  artist. 

The  mules,  in  single  file,  follow  warily  in  the  course 
of  their  leader  with  the  tinkling  bell,  and  the  "  arri- 
eros"  ride  close  behind,  urging  them  on  by  shouting 
and  the  whizzing  of  their  lassos. 

Lift  your  feet  upon  the  back  of  the  saddle,  and, 
pressing  firmly  with  your  knees,  keep  close  to  the 
guide.  Though  ready  to  jerk  him  up  in  case  of  a 
stumble,  let  your  horse  have  pretty  much  his  own 
way,  and,  if  an  old  stager,  he  will  move  on  cautiously, 
never  bringing  down  his  foot  until  sure  of  the  ground. 
In  this  manner  you  will  get  over  safely.  But  when 
amidst  the  deafening  roar  of  the  waters  and  the  crash 
of  large  stones  tumbling  about  and  dashing  against 
each  other,  you  will  understand  the  perils  of  these 
fordings,  and  credit  the  stories  so  often  heard  of  trav- 
elers who,  stunned  by  the  din  and  dizzied  by  the 
whirl  around  them,  fall  from  the  saddle,  and  are  swept 
away  by  the  impetuous  flood. 

Permanent  bridges,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  near 
Santiago,  are  unknown  in  the  country ;  but  when  the 
rivers  become  impassable,  from  the  rains  of  winter  or 
the  melting  of  the  mountain  snows,  suspension  bridges 
are  generally  erected.  These  "puentes  de  cimbra" 
(shaking  bridges),  as  they  are  appropriately  called,  are 
extremely  rude  both  in  material  and  construction. 

The  narrowest  part  of  the  stream  is  selected.    ,Upon 


I 


HANGING     BEIDGES. 


43 


the  bank  a  couple  of  strong  poles  are  planted  in  the 
ground ;  two  heavy  cables,  made  of  raw  hide  firmly 
twisted,  are  attached  to  these  poles  near  the  earth  and 
carried  across  to  the  opposite  shore,  where  they  are 
securely  fastened  to  other  poles.  On  tiiese  cables  a 
floor  of  cane  and  bmsh  is  laid.  From  the  tops  of  the 
poles  are  stretched  other  cables,  that  help  to  strength- 
en and  support  the  floor,  by  vertical  thongs  at  short 
intervals. 

So  soon  as  this  primitive  structure  is  completed  and 
properly  braced,  the  transit  commences,  and  continues 
untU  the  bridge  is  broken  down  or  swept  away  by 
some  freshet. 

Occasionally  it  happens  that,  by  the  breaking  of 
the  cane  flooring,  an  animal's  foot  goes  thiough,  and. 


44  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

in  the  struggle  to  extricate  himself,  the  ropes  give 
way,  precipitating  him  into  the  raging  torrent. 

I  shall  never  forget  my  first  crossing  one  of  these 
crazy  structures. 

It  was  a  stormy  day  when  two  of  us  reached  the 
Cachapoal.  The  bridge  swayed  and  creaked  violently 
in  the  strong  wind,  and  it  was  not  without  some  fore- 
hodings  that  we  asked  the  toll-gatherer  if  we  could 
pass.     He  answered,  dubiously, 

"  Yes ;  I  think  you  can  pass  over ;  but  it  won't 
hold  out  much  longer." 

This  was  not  very  consoling — but  the  river  was  im- 
passable by  fording,  and  we  had  no  alternative. 

First  a  horse  was  started  over.  Being  an  old  trav- 
eler, he  got  along  very  well,  and  the  others  were  induced 
to  follow,  one  by  one.  It  was  not  easy  to  make  them 
face  the  bridge;  but  once  started,  they  went  safely 
over,  picking  their  way  carefully,  as  though  fully 
aware  of  their  danger.  When  we  came  to  the  last 
mule  he  was  obstinate. 

After  being  bullied  and  beaten  into  starting  he  went 
half  way  over ;  then,  like  the  ass  that  he  was,  he  lay 
composedly  down  and  began  treating  himself  to  a  suc- 
cession of  fresh  rolls,  amidst  a  tremendous  crashing  of 
the  baggage  intrusted  to  his  care.  As  he  was  heavily 
laden,  it  was  unsafe  to  approach  him.  Shouting,  howl- 
ing, and  showers  of  stones  were  unavailing,  for  he  would 
not  move.  The  case  seemed  a  hopeless  one,  and  1 
began  to  solace  myself  by  humming  the  old  ditty : 

"  If  I  had  a  donkey  wot  wouldn't  go, 
D'  ye  think  I'd  wollop  him  ?     Oh  no !  no !" 

But  the  two  muleteers  seemed  to  be  of  another  piind ; 


GETTING     ACROSS.  45 

for,  losing  all  patience,  they  sprang  upon  the  bridge 
and  laid  hold  of  Mr.  Donkey  .in  the  most  summary 
manner. 

One  caught  the  brute  by  the  ears,  which  he  jerked 
incessantly,  while  the  other  seized  the  tail,  which  he 
began  pulling  and  twisting  as  though  drawing  the  cork 
out  of  a  bottle.  To  this  treatment  was  added  an  ac- 
companiment on  the  offender's  ribs,  by  two  pair  of 
boots,  until,  at  last,  even  mulish  endurance  was  forced 
to  yield. 

The  hooting  and  laughter  of  the  by-standers,  the 
curses  and  kicks  of  the  muleteers,  the  obstinacy  of 
the  mule,  the  tossing  of  the  bridge,  and  the  wild  roar 
of  the  foaming  river,  all  conspired  to  produce  a  scene 
of  confusion  seldom  equaled. 

Next  in  order  came  our  turn  to  go  over  on  foot. 
As  you  commence  walking  upon  one  of  these  light 
structures  a  vibratory  motion  is  imparted  to  it,  run- 
ning from  end  to  end  like  the  movements  of  a  snake ; 
and  you  have,  at  each  step,  a  lateral  rolling,  tossing 
you  from  side  to  side,  and  making  you  pitch  like  a 
ship  at  sea.  Add  to  this  the  sight  and  sound  of  the 
river  surging  and  roaring  beneath  your  feet,  and  the 
variety  of  sensations  produced  makes  the  passage  of 
a  "puente  de  cimbra"  no  easy  matter. 

Many  persons  are  affected  by  the  motion  with  gid- 
diness to  such  an  extent  as  to  disable  them  from  pro- 
ceeding, and  they  have  to  be  carried  across. 

Some  of  the  larger  streams  are  crossed  in  launches ; 
but  few  of  the  rivers  have  a  sufficient  depth  to  allow 
of  their  employment. 

We  were  now  upon  the  central  road,  connecting  all 


46  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

the  interior  southern  towns  with  the  distant  capital — 
the  great  thoroughfare  over  which  passes  most  of  the 
internal  trade  of  the  country. 

The  plain,  upon  either  hand,  parched  for  want  of 
rain  during  the  long  dry  season,  looks  sombre  and 
uninviting;  but  the  road  itself  presents  much  that  is 
interesting  to  the  stranger  in  the  frequent  groups  of 
country  people  bearing  their  produce  to  market. 

A  noise  is  heard  like  the  approach  of  a  railroad 
train,  and  a  long  file  of  mules  comes  jogging  by,  load- 
ed with  lumber.  Half  a  dozen  boards  or  joists  are 
tied  on  to  each  animal,  the  ends  in  front  projecting 
far  beyond  his  head ;  while  behind  they  drag  and 
clatter  along  the  ground.  As  they  pass,  give  them 
a  wide  berth  if  you  do  not  wish  to  be  unhorsed. 
These  donkeys  are  great  sticklers  for  the  right  of 
way,  and  make  no  allowance  for  the  convenience  of 
others. 

Again  your  ears  are  saluted  by  a  screeching,  like 
that  of  a  hundred  wheel-barrows ;  and  turning,  you 
see  a  yoke  or  two  of  oxen  coming  slowly  along.  It 
is  only  when  nearly  abreast  that  you  catch  sight  of 
the  cause  of  so  much  creaking.  A  clumsy  pair  of 
solid  wheels,  hewn  from  transverse  sections  of  a  tree, 
and  without  tire,  are  working  ungreased  upon  a  rude 
axle,  to  which  are  fastened  a  couple  of  saplings  pro- 
jecting some  distance  behind,  and  joined  in  front  so 
as  to  form  a  tongue.  This  tongue  is  strapped  to  the 
yoke,  which,  resting  on  the  back  of  the  oxen's  necks, 
is  tied  to  their  horns  with  leathern  thongs.  The  body 
of  the  cart  is  simply  a  hide  laid  upon  the  saplings,  and 
rests  about  a  foot  from  the  ground.  , 


SCENES     ON     THE      ROAD. 


CHILIAN  CART. 


These  dumpy  little  vehicles  are  common  throughout 
the  country,  and  when  laden  to  their  utmost  capacity, 
with  a  driver  on  top  stirring  up  the  team  with  a  long 
pole,  their  appearance  is  grotesque  in  the  extreme. 

Another  troop  of  mules  approaches.  Those  swollen 
sheep-skins  are  the  "  bottles'''  of  which  we  read  in  the 
Scriptures,  and  are  filled  with  the  famed  wines  of 
Concepcion. 

The  horsemen  that  follow  close  behind  are  unlike 
the  others  you  have  met.  They  do  not  wear  the  high 
Guayaquil  hat  and  the  wide  drawers  that  are  so  com- 
mon at  the  North,  neither  do  they  use  the  more  mil- 
itary cap  generally  worn  by  the  people  of  the  South. 
Their  heads  are  surmounted  by  a  conical  blue  bonnet ; 


48  THE     AEAUCANIANS. 

instead  of  the  European  jacket  they  wear  a  loose  gar- 
ment of  coarse  woolen  homespun  or  blue  cottonade, 
not  unlike  an  under-shirt  in  form,  and  cut  down  to  a 
point  both  in  front  and  behind ;  their  legs  are  encased 
in  overalls  of  undressed  hide,  and  their  feet  are  cov- 
ered with  moccasins  of  the  same  material.  To  an  ex- 
perienced eye  there  is  something  peculiar  even  in  the 
color  of  their  ponchos. 

These  men  are  Maulenos,  as  the  people  are  called 
living  near  the  river  Maule  and  its  tributaries.  They 
are  rather  uncouth  in  appearance,  and  their  loud  voices 
and  red  faces  seem  to  justify  the  common  idea  that 
wines  transported  in  this  manner  become  watery,  and 
lose  much  of  their  fine  flavor  before  reaching  their 
destination.  But  however  noisy,  they  do  not  forget 
as  they  pass  to  lift  their  hats  with  the  salutation, 
"  Adios,  Sehor .'"  "  JBuen  viaje,  amigo  r  "  God  be 
with  you,  Sir!"  "A  pleasant  journey  to  you,  my 
friend!" 

This  innate  politeness  is  every  where  met  among 
the  Chilenos,  in  all  their  actions,  from  the  most  im- 
portant business  down  to  the  lighting  of  a  cigarito. 


CHAPTER   V. 

Arrival  at  Los  Angelos. — Birth-days  and  Saint-days. — Watching  an 
'  Angel. — Los  Angelos. — Manufacture  of  Ponchos. — Start  for  the 
Volcano  of  Antuco. 

AEEiviNa  at  Los  Angelos,  I  repaired  immediately 
to  the  house  of  the  Intendente,  Don  Jose  Erasmo 
Jofre,  with  the  letters  with  which  the  Governor  of 
the  province  had  kindly  furnished  me,  stating  my 
objects,  and  recommending  me  to  the  attention  of  the 
Lthorities. 

The  Intendente  received  me  with  assurances  that 

5very  assistance  should  be  rendered  me  in  the  prose- 

ition  of  my  designs.     As  there  was  no  "posada"  in 

the  place,  he  invited  me  to  take  pot-luck  with  him  in 

lis  own  narrow  quarters  ;  saying,  at  the  same  time, 

Ithat,  if  I  preferred,  he  would  request  some  family  in 

[the  town  to  give  me  lodgings  where  I  could  be  more 

jomfortable. 

Knowing  that  it  was  necessary  to  be  a  burden  upon 
fsomebody,  I  accepted  his  hospitable  invitation  in  pref- 
^erence  to  being  quartered  on  any  family ;  for  a  re- 
fquest  from  the  Intendente,  in  whatever  terms  it  might 
Lve  been  couched,  would  probably  have  been  con- 
[strued  into  a  demand,  and  complied  with  as  such. 

As  my  host  had  official  business  to  occupy  his  time, 
he  handed  me  over  to  the  care  of  a  young  gentleman, 
whom  he  requested  to  entertain  me  for  the  evening; 

C 


50  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

and  I  was  accordingly  taken  to  a  house  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, where  we  found  quite  a  large  party  assem- 
bled. 

The  object  of  this  gathering  was  to  celebrate  the 
birth-day  of  the  lady  of  the  house,  or  rather  her  saint's- 
day. 

It  is  an  almost  invariable  rule  in  Chili  to  name  a 
child  after  the  saint  upon  whose  day  it  happened  to 
be  born,  even  though  the  saint  chance  to  be  a  woman 
and  the  child  a  man,  or  vice  versa.  Hence  it  is  that 
we  meet  Avith  so  many  Franciscas,  Josefas,  and  Pablas 
among  the  women,  and  so  many  Marias  among  the 
men.  They  all  celebrate  their  nativities  as  theii 
saints  come  round ;  but  many  of  the  latter  are  mov- 
able in  the  calendar,  and  often  a  Chileno  is  at  a  loss 
to  know  the  real  day  of  his  birth. 

I  had  hoped  to  enjoy  the  privilege  of  looking  on 
quietly  without  taking  part  in  tlie  festivities — for  after 
a  hard  ride,  a  seat  in  one  corner  would  have  been  far 
more  agreeable  than  violent  dancing;  but  my  friend 
insisted  on  introducing  me  to  every  one,  giving  me  a 
string  of  titles  that  was  perfectly  alarming,  and  I  soon 
found  myself  in  the  awkward  and  embarrassing  po- 
sition of  "the  lion  of  the  evening."  No  excuses 
would  be  heard ;  I  was  stuffed  with  cakes  and  sweet- 
meats; partners  were  selected  for  me,  and,  in  spite 
of  my  drowsiness,  I  danced  away  polkas  and  waltzes, 
quadrilles  and  zamacuccas  until  two  o'clock  in  the 
morning. 

The  ladies  were  many  of  them  pretty  and  finely 
formed ;  all  of  them  were  well  dressed  and  agreeable 
in  their  manners;  they  were  vivacious  and  (though 


WATCHING     AN     ANGEL.  51 

without  much  education)  intelligent,  and  possessed  a 
degree  of  refinement  not  to  have  been  expected  in  an 
unimportant  place  so  far  removed  from  the  capital. 
The  young  men  were  real  country  beaux,  with  con- 
siderable pretensions  to  elegance,  and  dressed  in  the 
extreme  of  fashions  somewhat  out  of  date.  This  was 
not  the  first  opportunity  I  had  of  observing — as  every 
stranger  in  Chili  must — the  unaccountable  superiority, 
both  intellectual  and  physical,  of  the  Women  to  the 
men. 

Returning  firom  the  party  at  a  late  hour,  I  had  an 
opportunity  of  witnessing  festivities  of  quite  a  difier- 
ent  character. 

Passing  in  front  of  a  small  house,  my  attention 
was  attracted  by  loud  singing  and  shouting  within. 
A  woman,  who  stood  in  the  open  door-way,  seeing 
me  pause,  invited  me  to  enter. 

"  What  is  there  going  on  ?"  I  asked. 

"  Estamos  velando  un  angelito  de  Dioi''  ("  We 
are  watching  an  angel  of  God"),  she  replied. 

Such  an  unintelligible  answer  only  excited  greater 
curiosity,  and  I  entered. 

The  room  was  filled  with  a  collection  of  men  and 
women  of  the  lower  class,  engaged  in  drinking  and 
clapping  their  hands  to  the  music  of  two  females  who 
sat  on  the  floor,  guitar  in  hand,  singing  a  drawling 
ditty,  the  burden  of  which  was  the  happiness  of  some- 
body or  something  in  heaven. 

But  the  most  prominent  object  was  a  kind  of  altar, 
set  round  with  lighted  candles,  and  ornamented  with 
tinsel  flowers.  In  the  midst  of  these  sat  the  figure 
of  an  infant,  of  the  size  of  life,  profiisely  painted  with 


52  ^  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

red  and  white,  dressed  in  tawdry  finery,  and  adorned 
with  gauze  wings.  "It  is  only  the  image  of  some 
saint,"  I  thought,  and  was  turning  away ;  but  a  sec- 
ond glance  convinced  me  that  there  was  something- 
unusual  about  the  figure.  The  hair  looked  very  nat- 
ural; those  eyes  were  strangely  vacant  and  filmy; 
even  the  finger-nails  were  perfectly  formed.  There 
seemed  to  be  "  too  much  of  art  for  nature,  yet  too  much 
of  nature  for  art ;"  and  I  approached  to  scrutinize  it 
closely.     It  was  a  corjpse  ! 

"  What  is  that  ?"  I  asked  of  a  by-stander. 

''^  An  angel,  Sir,''''  he  replied. 

"A  what?" 

"^  dead  child.'''' 

I -hurried  away  in  disgust. 

A  refined  sentiment  may  induce  the  bereaved  mother 
to  strew  the  bier  of  her  infant  with  fresh-blown  flowers 
— emblems  of  youth,  beauty,  and  innocence ;  but  this 
display  of  tinsel  and  paint,  this  maudlin  profanity, 
this  midnight  debauchery  in  the  presence  of  the  dead, 
is  revolting. 

I  was  informed  that  these  "watchings"  are  very 
common  thoughout  the  rural  districts,  and  that  fre- 
quently they  are  continued  with  music,  dancing,  and 
drunkenness,  night  after  night,  until  the  corpse. be- 
comes too  ofiensive  for  endurance. 

Los  Angelos,  though  laid  out  with  much  regularity, 
has  no  pretensions  to  beauty.  There  are  no  public 
buildings,  unless  the  unfinished  barracks  may  be  so 
called ;  and  the  church,  which  is  a  large  cane  hovel, 
plastered  with  mud,  and  thatched  with  straw,  is  rather 
the  worst  house  in  the  town.     The  stores  and  d]vell- 


LOSANGELOS.  53 

ings  are  mostly  ill-built,  though  some  few  of  the  latter 
are  well  furnished.  Strange  to  say,  the  "alameda'* 
(public  promenade),  the  great  ornament  of  all  Chilian 
towns,  was  here  wanting,  though  the  planting  of  one 
^was  contemplated  by  the  Intendente. 

These  "  alamedas"  are  wide  avenues,  planted  with 
from  four  to  six  rows  of  the  Lombardy  poplar — a  tree 
which  in  this  climate  grows  with  great  rapidity,  and 
gives  a  dense  shade.  The  long,  cool  alleys  are  fur- 
nished with  benches.  These  promenades  are  fre- 
quented on  Sundays,  feast-days,  and  warm  summer 
evenings  by  rich  and  poor ;  the  youth,  the  beauty, 
and  the  fashion,  all  in  their  best  attire ;  they  also 
serve  as  parades,  where  the  militia  are  regularly  drilled 
and  reviewed. 

Los  Angelos,  like  most  of  the  towns  in  Chili,  seems 
not  to  have  sprung  up  from  any  natural  advantages 
of  location.  Its  importance  is  owing  rather  to  the 
fact  of  its  being  a  military  post.  In  the  early  settle- 
^  ment  of  the  country  the  province  was  frequently  rav- 
aged by  the  Indians,  and  the  inhabitants  were  often 
obliged  to  seek  reftige  in  the  old  Spanish  fort,  whose 
massive  adobe  walls  and  deep  fosse  stiU  remain,  though 
fallen  to  ruin.  The  place  is  still  essentially  a  mili- 
tary station;  the  tap  of  the  drum  may  be  heard 
I  through  the  day,  and  the  "alerte"  of  the  sentinel 
through  the  night. 
For  commercial  purposes  and  facility  of  communica- 
tion with  the  coast,  San  Carlos  and  Santa  Fe,  both  of 
which  are  upon  the  Bio-Bio,  present  much  greater  ad- 
vantages, and  would  seem  to  have  been  more  appropri- 
ate seats  for  the  capital  of  the  department.    But  govern- 


54  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

ments,  as  a  rule,  are  not  fortunate  in  locating  towns, 
and  deciding  where  commerce  shall  and  shall  not  go ; 
for  a  shrewd  commercial  spirit,  and  speculative  in- 
dustry among  the  people,  can  alone  develop  the  re- 
sources, and  appreciate  the  natural  advantages  of  a 
country.  Yet  the  town  was  said  to  be  flourishing, 
and  was  evidently  improving. 

A  considerable  trade  is  here  carried  on  with  the 
Indians,  in  the  exchange  of  cloths,  knives,  wines,  and 
trinkets,  for  cattle  and  wool ;  the  surrounding  districts 
furnish  large  quantities  of  wheat  to  extensive  mills  in 
the  neighborhood;  but  there  are  no  manufactures  of 
any  description,  if  we  except  the  few  ponchos,  and 
other  articles  of  the  same  nature,  made  by  the  poorer 
people. 

While  rambling  about,  I  came  across  a  house 
where  several  girls  were  engaged  in  weaving  ponchos 
of  various  kinds.  They  sat  upon  the  bare  ground,  or 
on  very  low  stools,  working  at  looms  of  the  rudest 
construction. 

Permission  to  enter  was  readily  granted,  but  the 
work,  out  of  politeness,  was  immediately  dropped, 
and  with  difficulty  could  they  be  persuaded  to  re- 
sume it. 

I  was  surprised  to  learn  that  the  colors,  so  often 
admired  by  strangers  for  their  brilliancy,  are  not  dyed 
by  the  natives,  whose  dyes  are  mostly  sombre — gen- 
erally indigo  and  browns.  The  scarlet  and  other 
bright  wools  used  in  ornamenting  their  ponchos  are 
obtained  by  raveling  out  fine  English  or  French  flan- 
nels, and  the  threads  thus  separated  are  spun  into 
yam  suitable  for  their  work.  >, 


MANUFACTURE     OF     PONCHOS.  55 

There  was  one  "chamanta,"  as  those  ponchos  are 
called  which  are  entirely  composed  of  stripes  of  difFer- 
'  ent  colors,  which  particularly  struck  me,  on  account 
of  the  fineness  of  the  texture  and  the  beauty  of  the 
work.  It  was  making  to  order;  the  owner  having 
selected  the  pattern  and  furnished  the  materials.  Its 
market  value  would  be  about  thirty-four  dollars.  The 
poor  girl  expected  to  be  occupied  on  it  from  three  to 
four  months,  and  was  to  receive  twelve  dollars  for 
her  labor  when  finished.  Never  before  had  I  so  fully 
realized  the  immense  revolution  caused  by  steam  in 
human  labor.  And  yet  it  is  a  singular  fact,  that  with 
all  the  appliances  of  modern  science,  the  most  cele- 
brated looms  of  Europe  have  not  been  able  to  equal 
fabrics  produced  by  the  aid  of  the  most  primitive  ma- 
-  chinery.  Not  only  do  the  shawls  of  the  East  remain 
unrivaled,  but  even  the  South  American  blanket  has 
not  been  successfully  imitated. 

The  English  manufacturers  send  great  numbers  of 
ponchos  to  Chili,  but  they  never  can  be  mistaken  for 
the  native  article;  though  of  finer  texture  and  more 
chaste  colors  they  do  not  wear  so  well,  and  on  expos- 
ure to  the  rain  are  easily  drenched,  while  those  made 
in  the  country,  on  being  slightly  moistened,  become 
compact  and  stiff,  shedding  rain  like  a  roof,  and  keep- 
ing the  wearer  perfectly  dry. 

I  had  reason  to  regret  not  having  left  Concepcion 
a  week  earlier,  for  the  Intendente  informed  me  that 
he  had  but  just  returned  from  a  visit  to  the  volcano 
of  Antuco,  accompanied  by  several  officers,  and  an 
English  gentleman,  from  Valparaiso,  with  whom  I 
was  acquainted. 


56  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

Their  object  had  been  to  ascertain  if  any  grounds 
existed  for  the  fear  generally  entertained  by  the  people 
of  the  province,  that  the  waters  of  the  lake  Laja, 
which  liad  been  dammed  up  by  the  stream  of  lava, 
might  burst  forth  and  cause  an  inundation.  The  ap- 
prehended  danger  they  found  altogether  imaginary; 
but  the  whole  trip  had  proved  exceedingly  interest- 
ing, and  I  was  advised  to  delay  my  intended  visit  as 
little  as  possible. 

I  determined  to  start  immediately  A  letter  of  in- 
troduction to  the  "  Cura"  (parish-priest),  and  an  order 
for  the  services  of  the  "  Sub-delegate"  of  the  district, 
were  kindly  furnished  me  by  the  Intendente,  to  whose 
exertions  I  was  also  indebted  for  a  guide. 


CHAPTER   VI. 

On  the  Road. — Lost  in  the  Woods, — The  Brazero. — Sunday  in  An- 
tuco. — Pehuenches. — The  Zamacuca. — The  Cnra  of  Antuco  and 

the  Cura  of  R . — Hospitality  and  Peppers. — Peddling  versus 

Respectability. 

The  volcano  bears  E.  by  N.  from  the  town,  but 
the  road  lies  more  to  the  northward. 

Soon  after  starting  we  came  upon  an  extensive 
grassy  plain,  interspersed  with  clumps  of  fine  trees, 
which  grew  more  numerous  as  we  entered  upon  the 
splendid  "  Hacienda  de  las  Cauteras,"  an  extensive 
estate  belonging  to  ex-president  Bulnes.  This  estate 
is  said  to  be  one  of  the  best  in  southern  Chili,  and 
like  many  others  hereabouts,  was  purchased  directly 
from  the  Indians. 

It  was  understood  that  the  government  intended  to 
investigate  the  titles  of  estates  so  obtained,  and  con- 
fiscate such  as  had  been  fraudulently  acquired,  or  im- 
properly conveyed ;  but  the  title  to  "  Las  Cauteras" 
is  not  likely  to  be  questioned,  so  long  as  it  remains 
with  the  present  owner,  though  in  the  hands  of  one 
less  influential  the  case  might  be  far  different.     In 

I  the  distance  we  saw  the  large  dwelling-houses  of  the 
^'Hacienda,"  but  did  not  approach  them. 
[    Further  on  we  came  to  what  appeared  to  have  been 
fcrmerly  the  bottom  of  a  lake,  and  still  bears  the  name 


58  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

of  "La  Laguna"  (The  Lake).  Through  this  ran  a 
small  stream,  following  which  we  entered  a  gorge 
winding  between  hills  that  rose  with  sides  of  almost 
perpendicular  rock  crowned  by  thick  groves. 

There  was  something  in  the  sight  of  these  rock- 
ribbed  hills  that  brought  back  a  pleasant  home  feeling 
— these  thick  groves,  stretching  far  away,  looked  like 
the  tangled  woods  of  my  childhood.  I  had  become 
tired  of  the  boundless  plain — where  no  tree  meets  the 
eye  except  an  occasional  orchard  or  the  long  rows  of 
poplars  by  the  roadside — and  I  was  glad  to  exchange 
the  tropical  "  chaguar,"  with  its  gorgeous  blue  flowers, 
and  the  stately  columnar  cactus,  scarlet  with  the  para- 
sitic "quintral,"  for  the  modest  little  strawberries  that 
blushed  beneath  the  grass,  reminding  me  of  the  hills 
of  New  England. 

Soon  the  gorge  widened,  and  the  ground  was  thickly 
covered  with  trees  and  bushes.  Here  the  road  was 
cut  up  by  frequently  diverging  trails,  and  having 
halted  to  pick  a  wayside  flower,  I  lost  sight  of  the 
guide,  and  inadvertently  took  the  wrong  path.  I 
hurried  on,  but  did  not  overtake  him.  The  sun  had 
gone  down,  it  was  getting  quite  dark,  and  I  wandered 
about  in  vain  endeavoring  to  find  the  road.  I  shout- 
ed, but  received  no  reply ;  again  and  again  I  shouted, 
but  with  no  better  success ;  and  I  was  beginning  to 
make  calculations  as  to  the  best  way  of  spending  the 
night  in  the  woods,  with  the  possibility  of  meeting 
some  of  the  straggling  Indians  who  travel  over  this 
route  in  their  trading  excursions  to  Chilian,  when  I 
heard  a  faintly  answering  voice  in  the  distance.  Rid- 
ing in  the  direction  fi-om  which  the  sound  capie,  I 


T  H  E      B  K  A  Z  E  K  O.  59 

found,  not  the  guide,  but  some  boys,  who,  hearing 
my  shouts  and  comprehending  my  situation,  had  made 
a  friendly  response. 

They  directed  me  by  a  cross  cut  which  took  me  on 
to  the  main  road,  and  I  soon  reached  the  village  of 
Antuco. 

When  I  found  the  parsonage  it  was  eight  o'clock, 
and  the  guide  had  been  there  for  some  time,  awaiting 
my  arrival  and  uneasy  at  my  delay. 

A  bountiful  supper  awaited  us,  to  which  full  justice 
was  done.  The  Cura  was  a  young  man  of  good 
education  and  polished  maimers ;  his  house  was  the 
common  resting-place  of  strangers  who  occasionally 
visit  the  neighborhood ;  and  he  seemed  glad  to  enter- 
tain them,  for  their  society  made  a  break  in  his  usual- 
ly monotonous  existence. 

A  cheering  bottle  of  mosto  followed  the  meal ;  and 
pulling  out  a  few  choice  Havanas,  which  I  kept  for 
extra  occasions,  we  drew  up  to  the  brazier  of  glowing 
coals,  to  while  away  a  few  hours  in  conversation. 

In  Chilian  houses,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  of 
more  modern  construction,  fire-places  are' unknown — 
though  fires  are  always  necessary  in  winter,  and  would 
often  add  much  to  comfort  during  the  chill  evenings 
of  the  spring  and  fall.  Their  only  means  of  heating 
their  houses  is  by  braziers  of  charcoal,  which  have 
been  allowed  to  burn  in  the  open  air  long  enough  1o 
drive  off  the  greater  part  of  the  fumes. 

The  brazier  is  set  down  in  the  middle  of  the  room 
under  a  wicker  basket,  on  which  the  ladies  may  often 
be  seen  resting  their  feet,  with  their  dresses  spread  out 
so  as  to  get  the  full  benefit  of  the  hot  air. 


60  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

On  a  disagreeable  winter  night,  when  the  winds 
come  cold  and  piercing  from  the  Andes,  and  the  rain 
pours  down  in  torrents,  a  whole  family  will  huddle 
round  one  of  these  hrazeros — the  ladies  enveloped  in 
shawls,  and  the  gentlemen  wrapped  in  their  ample 
cloaks — fairly  toasting  their  shins,  while  their  hacks 
shiver  in  the  damp  chilly  air  that  comes  in  through 
doors  and  windows  left  open  for  the  escape  of  the  nox- 
ious vapors  of  the  charcoal.  And  yet,  if  a  stranger 
enters,  the  Seiioritas  will  congratulate  themselves  on 
their  delightful  climate,  laughing  at  the  imaginary  suf- 
ferings of  us  poor  Hyperboreans — not  knowing  that  it 
is  only  in  countries  where  the  rigors  of  winter  render 
every  precaution  necessary,  that  warm  and  comfort- 
able dwellings  can  be  found. 

Among  the  poor  the  winter  must  pass  cheerlessly ; 
for  their  miserable  hovels  afford  but  little  protection 
from  the  inclemencies  of  the  season,  and  the  luxury 
of  a  fire  can  be  seldom  indulged  in — at  least  in  north- 
ern and  central  Chili,  where  fuel  is  brought  from  a 
distance,  and  is  consequently  expensive. 

The  next  day  was  Sunday,  and  early  a  tremendous 
clattering  commenced,  intended  to  announce  the  mass 
in  the  small  chapel  which  stood  but  a  short  way  off. 
The  campanile  was  a  large  apple-tree,  in  the  crotch 
of  which  was  perched  a  young  imp  beating  lustily 
with  two  stones  upon  a  small  cracked  bell  suspended 
among  the  branches.  The  chapel,  though  small  and 
without  ornament,  was  neat  and  tasteftd  within.  The 
audience  was  large,  and  partly  composed  of  Indians, 
who,  though  probably  attracted  merely  by  curiosity, 
were  respectful  and  well-behaved  during  the  service. 


i 


SUNDAY     IN     ANTUCO.  63 

After  mass  the  priest's  house  was  besieged  by  men 
and  women,  with  complaints  and  grievances  of  various 
kinds  to  be  redressed.  The  Cura  seemed  to  be  the 
arbiter  of  all  their  disputes,  exercising  over  them  a 
species  of  patriarchal  sway  which  none  of  them  were 
inclined  to  question.  Such  matters  properly  belong 
to  the  Sub-delegate,  a  petty  officer  commissioned  by 
the  head  of  the  department ;  but  as  in  unimportant 
places  the  priest,  in  addition  to  his  sacred  character, 
is  usually  the  person  of  most  intelligence,  he  easily 
acquires  an  ascendency  often  productive  of  the  hap- 
piest results. 

During  the  day  there  were  a  number  of  Indians 
loafing  about  the  place.  They  had  been  on  a  trading 
expedition  to  Chilian,  taking  cattle  and  salt  for  sale, 
and  were  now  on  the  way  across  the  Andes  to  the 
pampas  of  Buenos  Ayres  with  the  proceeds.  They 
had  stopped  at  this  last  post  on  the  route  for  a  drunken 
spree,  and  bid  fair  to  return  to  their  homes  much 
poorer  than  they  came. 

They  were  dirty,  wild-looking,  and,  withal,  noisy ; 
but,  though  drunk,  not  turbulent  nor  quarrelsome. 
For  hours  they  would  sit  in  a  circle,  passing  the  jug 
from  mouth  to  mouth,  while  some  one  of  the  number 
kept  up  a  monotonous  discourse,  copiously  interlarded 
with  shouts,  to  which  the  listeners  answered  with  gut- 
tural grunts  of  approval. 

Their  dress  was  the  ordinary  costume  of  the  Gauchos 
of  the  pampas :  a  poncho  thrown  over  the  shoulders 
or  tied  round  the  waist ;  another  tied  by  a  sash  and 
looped  up  into  a  kind  of  Turkish  breeches,  under 
which  were  worn  wide  white  drawers  with  a  heavy 


64  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

fringe.  Their  feet  were  cased  in  horse-skin  boots, 
through  which  the  big  toe  protruded  just  enough  to 
allow  of  its  insertion  into  the  small  triangular  wooden 
stirrup. 

Their  hair  hung  long  and  unconfined  except  by  a 
bright  cotton  handkerchief  tied  round  the  head.  A 
few  wore  their  hair  partly  gathered  in  a  queue  behind, 
and  ornamented  with  silver  beads  ;  but  generally  they 
know  enough  to  make  but  little  show  of  wealth  when 
away  from  home. 

These  Indians  were  "Pehuenches"  or  "Puelches^"  a 
general  term  applied  to  all  those  living  east  of  the 
Cordillera;  or,  perhaps,  among  the  mountains  east 
of  the  plain.  The  name  signifies  i^'-PepuerC''  pines, 
and  "6%e"  people)  People  of  the  Pines ;  probably  from 
the  groves  of  pine  which  are  found  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountains. 

The  word  '•''PuelcM''  is  also  much  used  by  tlie  com- 
mon people  in  Chili  in  the  sense  of  the  East,  or  the 
wind  which  blows  from  the  East. 

These  Indians  are  of  the  same  race  as  the  Arauca- 
nians,  speaking  the  same  language,  and  differing  only 
in  a  few  peculiarities  of  manners  and  customs,  growing 
out  of  differences  of  climate,  soil,  and  modes  of  life. 

Antuco  is  a  small  hamlet  entirely  built  of  reeds, 
mud,  and  thatch.  The  church  and  the  parsonage  were 
the  only  two  houses  in  the  place  with  any  pretensions 
to  whitewash.  At  the  time  of  our  visit  the  officers 
connected  with  the  piquet,  around  which  the  village 
has  sprung  up,  were  engaged  in  the  seemingly  hope- 
less attempt  to  bring  the  crooked  lanes  into  something 
like  military  discipline. 


THEZAMACUCA.  i)d 

In  the  evening,  accompanied  by  two  of  the  officers, 
we  called  on  one  of  the  notabilities  of  the  place,  and  were 
hospitably  entertained.  The  house  was,  like  all  the 
others,  plastered  inside  and  out  with  mud,  and  the  raft- 
ers overhead  were  bare.  The  furniture  consisted  of  a 
few  wooden  chairs  (which,  I  verily  believe,  were  made 
in  Connecticut),  and  a  small  strip  of  home-made  carpet, 

>  spread  before  the  seat  of  honor,  where  the  Senora, 
flanked  by  her  daughters,  sat  in  state  to  receive  com- 
pany. 

The  stiffness  of  the  first  introduction  quickly  wore 
off*,  despite  this  formidable  array,  and  after  the  usual 
amount  of  pressing,  excuses,  hoarseness,  forgetful- 
ness,  and  coughing,  one  of  the  ladies  took  up  the 
guitar  and  favored  us  with  a  song.  A  polka  followed ; 
but  as  the  performance  of  rapid  gjrrations  to  the  music 
of  the  guitar  over  a  rough  mud  floor,  and  with  partners 
not  very  aujhii,  was  a  difficult  task,  the  fashionable 

i  dances  soon  gave  way  to  the  more  national  Zama- 
cuca, 

t  The  Zamacuca  has  been  very  much  reviled  by 
foreigners,  who  have  seen  it  only  in  sea-port  towns, 

Pat  places  of  a  questionable  character ;  but  as  danced 
in  good  society,  or  even  by  the  lower  classes  in  the 
interior,  it  is  no  less  graceful,  and  far  more  modest 
than  the  schottishes  and  redowas  of  the  modern  ball- 
room. 

A  couple  rise  and  stand  facing  each  other  a  few 

ards  apart.     The  guitar  strikes  up,  the  song  com- 

ences,  and  the  by-standers  clap  their  hands,  beating 

time  to  the  music.     The  dancers  advance  and  retreat 

coquettishly,  circling  round,  or  moving  to  one  side  as 


66 


THE     ARAUCANIANS. 


THE   ZAMACUCA. 


I 


caprice  may  suggest,  but  always  facing  each  other,  and 
waving  their  handkerchiefs  continually,  as  they  wind 
through  the  ever-changing  mazes.  As  neither  step 
nor  figure  is  arbitrary,  every  one  has  his  own  style, 
which  adds  much  to  the  beauty  and  interest  of  the 
dance.  The  music,  though  a  monotonous  repetition 
of  a  few  notes,  is  soul-stirring ;  and  the  verses,  if 
not  very  poetical,  serve  to  enliven  the  dance.  The 
following  is  a  fair  sample : 

"  Dices  que  no  me  quires, 

Porque  no  tengo  que  darte ; 
Ensena  me  abhorrescerte, 

Porque  no  se  mas  que  amarte."  j 


THE     CURA     OF     ANTUCO.  67 

Which  might  be  rendered  freely — 

"  You  say  that  you  love  me  no  more, 
Because  I  have  naught  to  bestow; 
Then  teach  me  to  hate  you,  I  pray, 
For  to  love  you  is  all  that  I  know." 

In  the  best  society  of  the  capital,  and  the  seaport 
towns,  the  Zamaciica  has  been  "tabooed,"  from  the 
fact  that  it  is  "  plebeian;"  the  same  reason  has  caused 
the  guitar  to  be  entirely  neglected,  and  even  held  in 
bad  odor  by  the  "  upper  ten ;"  but  at  their  balls  and 
parties,  after  the  supper,  when  all  formality  has  dis- 
appeared, the  national  dances  and  music  generally 
come  back  to  reassert  their  lost  supremacy,  and  are 
always  welcomed  with  enthusiasm. 

The  Cura  at  first  seemed  unwilling  to  compromise 
his  dignity,  and  rather  held  aloof  from  the  sport,  but 
after  considerable  good-natured  bantering  he  yielded, 
and  tucking  up  the  ends  of  his  cassock,  entered  heart- 
ily into  the  dance. 

There  was  much  about  the  young  priest  that  I 
liked ;  he  seemed  to  be  sincere,  and  have  the  welfare 
of  his  flock  at  heart,  yet  there  was  nothing  ascetic  nor 
harsh  in  his  nature ;  he  was  an  agreeable  associate, 
and  did  every  thing  in  his  power  to  contribute  to  the 
comfort  and  pleasure  of  his  guests. 

Once  before  I  had  been  thrown  upon  the  hospitality 
of  one  of  his  cloth,  whom  he  knew  well ;  and  I  related 
to  him  the  reception  I  had  received.  He  was  much 
entertained  by  my  story,  and  though  the  recital  may 
not  prove  equally  interesting  to  the  reader,  I  shall 
take  the  liberty  of  here  repeating  it. 

During  my  wanderings  in  northern  Chili,  chance 


68  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

threw  me  in  company  with  B ,  a  young  English- 
man, who  was  traveling  toward  Chilian  with  a  large 
troop  of  pack-mules,  on  some  business,  the  nature  of 
which  I  never  discovered. 

It  was  a  cold,  rainy  day  when  we  arrived  at  the 

little  town  of  E, ;  for  several  hours  we  had  ridden 

through  the  pelting  storm,  and  we  were  thoroughly 
drenched;  but  there  was  a  cheering  prospect  before 

us,  for  B brought  a  letter  of  introduction  to  the 

Cura  of  the  village,  who,  he  had  been  assured,  would 
receive  us  with  a  hearty  welcome. 

The  sight  of  two  white  turrets  sent  a  thrill  through 
our  bosoms.  Trudging  wearily  through  the  mud,  we 
had  looked  forward,  with  pleasurable  emotions,  to  the 
snug  vicarage ;  we  had  conjured  up  many  pictures  of 
the  good  Padre  with  his  jocund  face  and 

"  Fair  round  belly,  with  fat  capon  lined," 

a  very  model  of  hospitality  and  good  cheer.  Now  our 
dreams  were  about  to  be  realized. 

Turning  a  sharp  comer,  there  stood  the  quiet  par- 
sonage, a  pattern  of  neatness  and  comfort,  snugly 
ensconced  beneath  the  shadow  of  the  church ;  a  plot 
of  flowers  before  the  door  indicated  the  presence  of 
some  female  hand.  Every  lingering  misgiving,  if 
there  had  been  any  in  our  hearts,  immediately  van- 
ished, and  putting  spurs  to  our  horses  we  dashed  up 
to  the  house,  nor  did  we  draw  rein  until  at  the  very 
threshold. 

The  guitar  was  tinkling  merrily,  and  there  was  a 
sound  of  smothered  laughter ;  but  both  were  hushed 
in  a  moment,  and  a  dozen  fair  faces  looked  out  of  the 


THE     CURA     OF     R .  69 

window,  and  were  quickly  withdrawn.  There  came 
a  sound  of  loosening  bolts ;  the  door  opened  slightly, 
and  out  popped  a  little  pug  nose,  and  two  very  black 
eyes ;  there  was  something  bewitchingly  impudent  in 
that  little  pug,  admirably  in  keeping  with  the  eyes 
that  stared  at  us  with  a  most  defiant  coolness  and  in- 
quiring wonder.  A  pile  of  noses  and  eyes  were  dimly 
visible  behind,  all  wearing  about  the  same  expression 
of  surprise. 

Bowing  very  low,  we  inquired,  "  Is  the  Padre  at 
home?" 

"Yes,  Sir." 

"  Can  we  see  him  ?" 

"Not  now,  Sir;  he  is  sleeping  the  siesta,  and  can 
not  be  disturbed  for  an  hour  yet." 

Hereupon  B dragged  out  of  his  pocket  some- 
thing looking  like  a  wet  rag,  and  extended  it  to  the 
damsel,  informing  her  that  it  was  a  letter  for  the 
Cura. 

She  turned  it  over  inquiringly,  saying  that  she 
would  hand  it  to  him  when  he  awoke.      "But,"  cried 

B ,  growing  impatient,  for  the  rain  poured  down 

in  torrents,  "  It  is  an  introduction ;  we  have  come  here 
to  lodge!" 

"Ah!"  said  she,  with  astonishment,  "then  per- 
haps you  would  do  well  to  come  in  and  wait  until  the 
Cura  rises." 

We  were  shown  into  a  small  room  which  served 
as  the  passage-way  fi*om  the  street  to  the  inner  court. 
A  window  and  a  door  wide  open  kept  up  a  free  circu- 

ttion,  and  the  temperature  was  about  as  disagreeable 
ithin  as  out  of  doors.     A  plain  deal  table,  a  settee. 


70  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

and  two  old-fashioned  high  leather-backed  chairs, 
formed  the  furniture,  and  the  damp  brick  floor  was 
uncovered  by  carpet  or  mat. 

We  felt  no  surprise  at  finding  such  a  room  in  the 
country,  where  the  rooms,  which  often  serve  as  par- 
lor, kitchen,  bedroom,  and  hen-house,  are  generally 
no  better ;  but  the  half-opened  door  disclosed  a  snug 
little  parlor,  nicely  carpeted  and  furnished,  starting 
in  our  mind  a  train  of  deductions  not  over  favorable 
to  the  civility  of  our  fair  entertainers. 

The  ladies  looked  at  us  for  a  few  moments,  made 
some  remarks  about  the  weather,  asked  all  the  ques- 
tions necessary  to  satisfy  their  curiosity,  and  then 
tripped  gayly  back  to  the  parlor  to  resume  their  danc- 
ing. From  the  same  room,  also,  came  a  smell  of 
burnt  sugar,  a  hissing  of  the  kettle,  and  other  unmis- 
takable evidences  that  the  mate  was  shedding  a  genial 
influence  over  all. 

Now  this  was  very  aggravating:  a  seat  in  that 
snug  parlor  would  have  been  delightful;  the  lively 
dance  would  have  helped  to  warm  our  sluggish  blood , 
but  cold,  wet,  and  hungry  as  we  were,  to  bring  the 
steaming  mate  palpably  before  our  senses — the  mate, 
that  very  "  calumet"  of  the  Chilian  wigwam — and  not 
proffer  it  to  our  expectant  lips,  that  was  too  bad. 

B thrust  both  hands  into  his  pockets,  and  drop- 
ping his  head  upon  his  breast,  burst  out  in  the  most 
furious  invectives  against  the  baseness  of  mankind, 
and  the  Chilenos  in  particular. 

As  to  myself,  though  hungry,  weary,  and  no  little 
annoyed,  this  sudden  and  unexpected  destruction  of 
alLour  fair  dreams  was  so  ludicrous,  that  I  cou|d  not 


THE     CURA     OF     R .  71 

help  laughing  heartily  and  twitting  my  companion  on 
his  excellent  introduction.  But  on  that  point  he  was 
immovable  ;  "what  we  had  suffered  was  owing  merely 
to  the  rudeness  of  a  few  thoughtless  girls,  and  the 
good  Padre,  immediately  on  waking,  would  make  us 
extremely  comfortable." 

An  hour — to  us  an  age — ^had  passed,  when  one  of  the 
girls  came  to  tell  us  that  they  were  about  to  give  the 
Cura  an  "  esquinazo,"  to  rouse  him  from  his  slumbers. 
Then  the  whole  troop  came  rushing  out  like  so  many 
bacchanals,  and  soon  we  heard,  resounding  from  the 
distant  corridor,  the  monotonous  strumming  of  the 
guitar,  a  loud,  laughing  chorus,  and  an  alternate  rub- 
bing and  beating  upon  the  door  with  a  sheep-skin,  in 
imitation  of  the  hissing  and  explosion  of  rockets. 

The  girls  came  trooping  back,  took  another  inquisi- 
tive look  at  us,  and  then  started  off  tlirough  the  rain 
to  their  homes. 

The  Cura  soon  appeared.  He  was  a  large,  portly 
man,  dressed  in  the  usual  black  gown  of  the  clergy ; 
over  his  broad  shoulders  was  thrown  a  shaggy  brown 
poncho ;  his  feet  were  cased  in  suekos  (clogs),  raising 
him  some  two  inches  off  the  ground ;  and  his  head 
ras  surmounted  by  a  white  night-cap,  the  tassel  of 
Vhich  hung  down  in  front.  A  large  pair  of  goggles 
adorned  his  nose ;  his  lips  were  firmly  compressed 
upon  a  paper  cigarito,  whose  smoke  curled  disdain- 
fully from  his  nostrils ;  his  broad  face  was  about  the 
color  of  a  dried  codfish ;  even  his  double  chin  con- 
veyed no  expression  of  benevolence ;  and  as  he  stood 
with  his  hands  in  his  pockets,  eying  us  askance,  his 
whole  air  had  little  in  it  of  open-hearted  hospitality. 


72  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

'^  I  brought  you  a  letter,  Sir,"  said  B ,  bowing 

politely. 

"Yes,  I  have  read  it,"  was  the  significant  reply  of 
the  prelate,  as  he  dropped  his  portly  person  into  an 
arm-chair. 

Both  of  us  were  seized  with  the  same  idea — to  rush 
out  of  the  house  and  seek  lodgings  elsewhere.  But 
where  could  we  go  ?  The  storm  raged  pitilessly — our 
servants  had  started  off  to  pasture  with  the  horses — 
we  knew  nothing  of  the  town,  and  had  no  means  of 
transporting  our  luggage.  A  pause  followed ;  broken, 
at  last,  by  B . 

"We  are  very  sorry.  Sir,  to  put  you  to  so  much 
trouble.^'' 

"Not  the  slightest  in  the  world,  Senor;  the  house 
is  entirely  at  your  disposal,"  was  the  freezingly  polite 
reply. 

"  At  the  earliest  possible  hour  in  the  morning  we 
shall  relieve  you  of  the  burden." 

"Ah!"  exclaimed  our  host,  staring  at  us  and  at 
the  formidable  pile  of  baggage,  as  though  he  thought 
we  had  come  to  spend  a  month.  He  evidently  felt 
relieved ;  and  asked,  in  a  somewhat  more  conciliatory 
manner,  how  long  we  had  been  upon  the  road. 

"  We  started  early  in  the  morning,  not  even  wait- 
ing for  breakfast  /"  answered  B ,  throwing  out 

his  elbow  in  the  direction  of  my  ribs,  to  call  my  atten- 
tion to  the  delicate  manner  in  which  the  hint  had  been 
conveyed.  But  though  both  the  hint  and  the  elbow 
struck  me  forcibly,  the  good  Padre  did  not  seem  to 
notice  either. 

"  Had  you  much  rain  upon  the  road  ?" 


THE     CURA     OF     R .  73 

"  Yes,  Sir,  the  storm  was  violent ;  and  what  with 
the  wind,  we  were  wet  through  and  chilled." 

The  elbow  again  punched  my  ribs,  after  this  excel- 
lent hit;  but  our  kind  host  could  not  comprehend 
that  either  food  or  fire  would  add  to  our  comfort,  and 
puffed  away  at  his  cigarito  in  silence. 

My  poor  friend  looked  the  picture  of  despair.  He 
had  been  completely  outgeneraled,  and  would  have 
relinquished  the  attack,  had  he  not  perceived  an  ill- 
disguised  smile  struggling  for  mastery  in  my  face. 
That  re-inflamed  his  pride ;  and  rousing  all  his  ener- 
gies, he  exclaimed, 

"  My  dear  Sir,  we  are  very  hungry  ;  will  you  give 
us  something  to  eat  f 

We  were  assured,  with  a  dignified  wave  of  the 
hand,  that  we  need  feel  no  uneasiness  on  that  score. 

"But,  Sir,"  continued  B ,  determined  to  push 

his  advantage,  "  we  are,  also,  very  cold ;  will  you  not 
order  for  us  some  fire  f 

The  order  was  given;  and,  after  a  few  moments 
spent  in  silence,  the  servant  appeared  with  a  huge 
pan  of  burning  coals.  The  Padre  then  went  out, 
leaving  us  to  enjoy  the  fire. 

"  What  think  you  now  of  your  excellent  introduc- 
tion ?"  I  asked,  as  the  Cura  left  the  room. 

My  companion  broke  out  in  furious  denunciation  of 
all  introductions  and  introducers.  He  was  vehement 
against  all  South  Americans,  especially  the  Chilenos, 

and  more  particularly  the  denizens  of  R ,  among 

whom  he  clearly  demonstrated  that  the  padres  were 
the  vilest  and  most  unprincipled.  But  as  his  wrath 
expended  itself,  he  fell  into  a  more  charitable  mood, 

D 


74  THE     AKAUCANIANS. 

and  discoursed  on  the  advantages  of  traveling  and 
studying  human  nature,  in  a  manner  that  would  have 
done  credit  to  a  philosopher. 

Another  hour  had  dragged  slowly  along,  when  a 
Senorita  entered,  and  pulling  out  the  drawer  began 
to  set  the  tahle.  This  done,  she  drew  up  a  chair  to 
the  fire,  and  entered  into  conversation.  She  was 
young — or  passably  so ;  sprightly,  like  all  her  coun- 
trywomen, and  rather  pretty,  with  a  light  complexion, 
rosy  cheeks,  and  bewitchingly  black  eyes,  under  j^hose 
mild  influence  we  began  to  mollify,  and  think  that,  at 
her  hands,  even  the  bitter  bread  of  unwilling  hospital- 
ity would  be  sweet. 

She  told  us  that  she  was  the  good  Cura's  niece, 
and  had  come  to  live  with  him  in  order  to  superintend 
his  household,  and  look  after  his  temporal  affairs. 
We  had  not  asked  any  questions  ;  but  she  seemed  to 
think  this  explanation  of  her  position  necessary — for 
the  world  is  too  apt  to  be  uncharitable. 

The  meal  soon  came ;  and  it  was  abundant.  There 
was  a  huge  "  casuela  de  ave,"  redolent  with  the  fames 
of  onions ;  a  massive  piece  of  roast  beef  followed, 
flanked  on  the  right  by  a  dish  of  sliced  beets,  and 
on  the  left  by  sundry  bottles  of  red  wine — the  rich 
rrvosto  of  the  South.  .The  worthy  Padre  (perhaps, 
rather,  the  niece)  had  outdone  himself,  and  rose  rap- 
idly in  our  esteem. 

The  young  lady  insisted  on  sitting  at  the  table  to 
serve  us ;  and,  determined  to  do  honor  to  her  kindness, 
I  began  by  a  brimming  spoonful  of  the  savory  soup. 
I  had  forgotten  the  predilection  of  the  Chilenos  for 
"a;T'  (red  peppers) ;  and  as  I  stopped  to  draw  byeath, 


i 


HOSPITALITY     AND     PEPPERS.  75 

I  felt  my  whole  mouth  and  throat  hlistered,  as  though 
I  had  swallowed  so  much  melted  lead.  The  pain  was 
intense  ;  and  seizing  the  nearest  thing  at  hand — a  bot- 
tle of  mosto — ^I  swallowed  a  full  glass ;  but  it  was  a 
strong,  fiery  wine,  and  felt  like  liquid  flame  in  my 
already  lacerated  throat.  I  could  have  screamed  in 
agony ;  the  tears  hung  trembling  in  my  eyes,  and  I 
gazed  wildly  around,  in  hopes  of  finding  something 
with  which  to  allay  the  burning  pain. 

The  Senorita,  perceiving  that  I  wanted  something, 
said,  with  an  angelic  smile, 

"What  do  you  wish,  Sir?  Perhaps  you  would 
like  a  little  more  aji  ,*"  and,  suiting  the  action  to  the 
word,  she  deposited  alongside  my  plate  a  howl  of 
red  peppers  ! 

I  clutched  the  thing  convulsively;  and  had  this 
aggravation  of  my  misery  come  firom  a  man,  I  should 
have  dashed  it  at  his  head.  But  it  was  done  in  such 
a  good-natured  way,  and  with  such  a  sweet  smile! 
She,  doubtless,  thought  red  peppers  the  most  delight- 
ful vegetable  in  the  world.  So,  choking  down  my 
feelings,  and  endeavoring  to  look  pleasant,  I  assured 
her  that  the  soup  really  could  not  be  improved  by  the 
addition  of  any  condiment,  and  that  "it  would  not 
have  been  better,  even  if  prepared  by  her  own  fair 
hands" — a  perfectly  Spanish  compliment ;  and,  un- 
like most  compliments,  literally  true. 

During  this  scene,  I  felt  afraid  to  look  at  B , 

knowing  that  his  turn  for  laughing  had  at  last  arrived. 
But  I  took  a  stealthy  glance  at  him ;  and  there  he  sat, 
his  face  red  with  endeavors  to  preserve  a  sober  deport- 
ment.    He  had  been  cautious,  and  was  picking  out 


76  THEARAUCANIANS. 

little  bits  of  chicken  very  gingerly — carefully  avoiding 
the  extras.  For  the  moment,  I  wished  him  and  his 
friend,  introduction.  Padre,  peppers  and  all  (except 
the  Senorita),  in  the  very  bottom  of  Tophet. 

All  further  attempts  to  eat  were  useless.  The 
Senorita  was  all  sympathy,  fearing  that  I  had  lost 
my  appetite,  or  was  sick;  and  for  several  days  after 
my  swollen  lips  and  blistered  mouth  reminded  me 
continually  of  the  good  Cura  and  his  casuela. 

Our  after-dinner  meditations  were  interrupted  by 
the  entrance  of  two  gentlemen,  who  wished  to  see  our 
host.  In  one  of  them  I  thought  I  recognized  a  cer- 
tain Major  S ,  whom  I  had  known  in  Santiago ; 

nor  was  I  mistaken,  for,  after  scrutinizing  me  a  mo- 
ment, he  rushed  forward  and  shook  me  violently  by 
the  hand,  in  the  manner  of  persons  who  wish  to  ap- 
pear extremely  glad  to  see  you.  The  Cura  stood 
aghast ;  he  wanted  an  explanation,  and  it  soon  came ; 
for  the  good  Major,  seeing  that  we  were  imperfectly 
acquainted,  immediately  introduced  me  as  the  Senor 
Don  Eduardo,  a  particular  friend  of  his,  and  an 
officer  in  the  United  States  Navy.  He  then  went 
on  to  explain,  in  a  novel  and  original  manner,  the 
nature  and  objects  of  the  Observatory  at  Santiago, 
in  which  he  represented  me  as  holding  some  high- 
ly honorable  and  lucrative  post ;  and  finished  off  by 
recommending  me  to  the  Cura  as  a  distinguished 
sava7it, 

I  was  overwhelmed  by  the  Major's  volubility,  and 
surprised  by  so  much  attention  from  a  person  with 
whom  I  had  never  been  very  well  acquainted;  but, 
whatever  may  have  been  his  object,  nothing  was  lost 


i 


PEDDLING    VERSUS    RESPECTABILITY.    77 

by  the  encounter.  The  friends  of  so  distinguished  a 
dignitary  as  the  military  chief  of  the  district  (for  such 
was  the  Major),  could  not  be  other  than  persons  wor- 
thy of  high  consideration ;  and  from  being  obscure, 
unwelcome,  and,  I  fear,  suspected  strangers,  we  sud- 
denly found  ourselves  the  intimate  friends  and  cher- 
ished guests  of  the  military,  civil,  and  ecclesiastical 
authorities  I 

The  Cura,  when  satisfied  of  our  character,  became 
as  cordial  as  he  had  before  been  reserved.  He  did 
every  thing  in  his  power  to  entertain  us ;  and  the 
next  morning,  as  we  were  preparing  for  an  early  start, 
he  insisted  upon  our  staying  for  breakfast,  and  would 
have  persuaded  us  to  remain  another  day,  promising 
to  make  the  remainder  of  our  visit  pleasant ;  but  we 
declined  his  hospitality,  and  determined  to  push  on, 
promising  to  call  and  see  him,  if  possible,  on  our 
return. 

Just  as  we  were  about  to  leave,  the  whole  se- 
cret of  our  singular  reception  leaked  out ;  a  number 
of  the  villagers  came  to  the  house,  and  inquked 
for  us. 

"Have  you  any  guitar  strings  for  sale?"  asked 
one. 

"  No !"  was  the  reply. 

"  Have  you  any  ribbons  ?"  inquired  another. 

"  No ;  we  have  nothing  to  sell !" 

"What,  then,  do  you  carry  those  large  boxes 
for?"  said  a  third,  pointing  to  the  heavily-laden 
'mules. 

They  must  think  that  we  are  peddlers  T  cried 
— ,  indignantly. 


78  THE     AKAUCANIANS. 

"  To  tell  you  the  truth,  gentlemen,"  said  the  Cura, 
laughing,  "  I  thought  so  myself  at  first  /" 

Every  story  has  its  moral :  should  the  reader  ever 
have  occasion  to  travel  in  Chili,  as  he  values  his  re- 
spectability, let  him  "beware  of  pack-mules  and  super- 
fluous baggage ! 


CHAPTER    VII. 

Ballenar. — The  Tuvunlevu. — Scoria. — Volcano  of  Antuco. — ^Making 
a  Night  of  it. — Lake  Laja. — Inquisitiveness  of  the  Guasos. — Nearly 
an  Adventure. — A  pleasant  Drink. 

Though  the  town  of  Antnco  is  within  sight  of  the 
volcano,  and  though  the  people  had  been  in  the  great- 
est trepidation  on  account  of  the  eruption,  I  found 
that  not  one  of  the  villagers  had  ventured  near  it  ex- 
cept the  Cura,  who  had  accompanied  the  Intendente. 
I  was,  therefore,  obliged  to  fall  back  upon  the  orders 
I  had  received  for  the  Sub-delegate,  and  ask  the  serv- 
ices of  the  Cajpitan  de  Amigos  (Indian  interpreter), 
who  lived  near  the  volcano,  and  was  acquainted  with 
all  the  localities.  The  interpreter  was  told  to  hold 
himself  in  readiness ;  and  the  next  morning,  about 
half  past  five,  we  started  out. 

Passing  along  the  valley  which  borders  the  Laja, 
we  soon  came  in  sight  of  the  volcano,  rising  boldly  in 
the  air,  isolated,  and  black;  forming,  in  its  sombre 
majesty,  a  fine  contrast  with  the  more  immediate 
landscape,  which  was  romantic  and  beautifiil — the 
abrupt  hills,  covered  with  woods,  and  the  gentler 
slopes  smiling  with  verdure. 

We  had  been  nearly  five  hours  on  the  road  when 
we  arrived  at  the  house  of  the  Capitan,  our  guide, 
where  we  breakfasted  and  rested  our  horses. 

Near  this  point  is  the  fort   of  Ballenar,   or  rather 


80  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

the  ruins,  situated  upon  a  hill  of  so  singular  a  shape 
that  I,  at  first,  imagined  the  name,  Castillo  de  Bal- 
lenar,  to  he  applied  to  the  hill  itself,  from  a  fancied 
resemblance  to  a  castle  with  terraces  and  bastions 
complete. 

The  fort  was  of  brick,  and,  though  small,  of  much 
importance  in  the  times  of  Pincheira,  as  a  check  upon 
the  Indians,  who  were  wont  to  sweep  through  the 
neighboring  gorge  in  the  Cordillera,  and  lay  waste  the 
surrounding  country ;  but  it  has  long  since  been  de- 
serted as  a  useless  precaution.  The  only  bands  of 
Indians  that  now  travel  the  road  are  peaceful  traders, 
bound  on  friendly  expeditions,  to  traffic  with  the 
towns  which,  in  by-gone  days,  they  so  often  made 
desolate. 

About  noon  we  resumed  our  march,  the  guide  stow- 
ing away  some  two  or  three  yards  of  jerked  beef  .be- 
tween the  skins  of  his  saddle,  and  filling  his  saddle- 
bags with  onions,  as  provisions  for  the  trip. 

As  we  proceeded  the  scenery  became  finer,  for  we 
wound  through  deep  ravines,  passing  and  repassing 
a  thundering  brook,  forming,  in  one  place,  a  splendid 
cascade,  at  whose  feet  the  waters  were  collected  in  a 
basin  so  pure  and  crystalline  that  every  bright  pebble 
could  be  seen  twinkling  at  the  bottom. 

Soon  we  began  climbing  a  high  ridge,  and  firom  the 
top  another  view  broke  upon  us  perfectly  Alpine  in  its 
character.  I  can  remember  to  have  seen  nothing  finer. 
On  the  right  hand  rose  proudly  the  rugged  Sierra 
Velluda,  lifting  to  the  skies  its  dark  and  craggy  pin- 
nacles, crowned  with  eternal  snows ;  on  the  left  tow- 
ered other  snow-clad  summits,  all  sending  down  their 


THETUVUNLEVU.  81 

tribute  of  foaming  cascades,  that  tumbled  over  the 
cliffs,  to  swell  the  current  of  the  Laja,  here  a  small 
mountain  stream  roaring  at  our  feet.  Directly  in 
front,  desolate  and  black,  stood  the  isolated  cone  of 
Antuco,  capped,  it  is  true,  with  snows,  yet  not  pure 
and  glistening  in  the  sun,  but  vailed  with  a  cloak  of 
dust  and  ashes. 

No  signs  of  eruption  were  visible  except  a  slight 
cloud  of  smoke  and  steam,  hanging  like  a  vapory  mist 
over  the  principal  crater. 

Descending  from  this  ridge  we  began  to  find  more 
frequent  evidences  of  recent  eruption  in  the  pieces  of 
scoria  and  fragments  of  stone  scattered  along  our 
track.  These  became  more  numerous  until  we  reached 
the  Tuvunlevu,  a  noisy  brook,  near  which  are  the  re- 
mains of  a  piquet,  the  last  on  this  side  of  the  mount- 
ains. Here  we  came  upon  a  mass  of  scoria  which  in 
some  former  eruption  had  flowed  down  from  the  vol- 
cano, and  after  making  a  circuit  of  eight  or  ten  miles 
among  the  hills,  burst  into  this  valley,  intercepting 
the  course  of  the  Laja. 

It  was  of  a  black  ashen  hue,  more  resembling,  in 
color  and  texture,  the  slag  of  an  iron  ftirnace  than  any 
thing  else  I  could  recall.  It  was  not  compact  and 
homogeneous  like  lava,  with  rich  veins  and  variegated 
colors,  but  a  rough  mass,  as  though  the  rocks,  riven 
and  crushed  by  violent  convulsions,  had  been  acted 
on  by  the  internal  fires  enough  to  allow  the  fragments 
to  glide  freely  over  each  other  and  adhere  on  cool- 
ing. It  had  flowed  along  in  tortuous  currents,  in 
some  places  roUed  down  like  water,  in  others  tlurown 
up  like  a  wall.     Again  it  stood  cresting  and  curling 


82  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

over  like  the  foam-caps  of  a  wave,  as  though  some  im- 
petuous mountain  torrent,  bursting  suddenly  through 
its  icy  barrier,  had  been  instantly  arrested  and  petri- 
fied in  its  furious  course.  Over  this  we  wound  cau- 
tiously in  the  rude  path  worn  by  the  Indians,  and 
soon  after  arrived  at  a  clump  of  apple  trees  growing 
in  a  green  patch  of  meadow,  where  there  was  a  fine 
turf  strewed  with  ripe  strawberries,  and  a  limpid  riv- 
ulet of  cold  snow-water  gurgling  through  the  long 
grass.  Here  we  rested  for  a  while,  and  the  guide 
wished  to  stop  for  the  night,  assuring  us  that  there 
was  no  better  view,  and  no  pasture  equally  good  for 
the  animals. 

The  hills  that  rose  abruptly  around  us  were  com- 
posed of  loose  volcanic  sand  and  ashes,  perfectly 
barren,  with  no  verdure  except  a  few  cedars  growing 
at  their  feet,  and  in  moist  places  creeping  up  their 
sides.  But  the  volcano  stood  only  a  short  distance 
in  firont ;  it  was  only  four  o'clock,  and  I  was  anxious 
to  proceed. 

Almost  overhanging  that  side  of  the  volcano  on 
which  the  recent  eruption  had  taken  place,  was  a  high 
point  where  could  be  discovered  small  patches  of  green, 
and  the  snows  around  gave  promise  of  water.  As  it 
looked  near,  I  insisted  on  reaching  it,  and  the  guide 
reluctantly  consented. 

The  distance  was  greater  than  it  had  appeared,  and 
overcoming  it,  more  difficult  than  I  had  expected.  Di- 
rectly before  us  lay  a  vast  bed  of  scoria,  that  must  be 
slowly  crossed  by  winding  about  and  avoiding  rough 
spots  where  the  animals  were  liable  to  injury.  There 
was  the  river,  not  deep  nor  broad,  but  impetuous,*  and 


VOLCANO     OF     ANTUCO.  83 

filled  with  holes  and  slippery  rolling  stones.  Pass- 
ing a  deep  gullj  our  ascent  began.  The  first  hill  was 
composed  of  loose  volcanic  sand,  ashes,  and  sharp, 
angular  pieces  of  scoria,  and  rose  more  than  three 
hundred  feet,  with  a  declivity  so  great  as  to  appear 
almost  perpendicular.  I  ascended  for  some  distance 
on  horseback,  by  making  short  zigzag  tacks,  but  the 
poor  brute  labored  so  hard,  and  got  along  so  slowly, 
that  I  soon  dismounted  and  climbed  up  the  rest  of 
the  way,  firequently  obliged  to  use  both  hands  and 
feet.  The  servant  also  dismounted;  but  the  guide 
stuck  to  the  saddle,  preferring,  as  he  said,  laming  his 
horse  to  laming  himself.  He  clambered  up  in  safety, 
though  I  momentarily  expected  to  see  both  horse  and 
rider  rolling  down  the  steep  and  treacherous  bank. 

Other  rough  hills  succeeded,  covered  at  intervals 
with  low,  stunted  bushes,  bearing  a  large  berry  not 
unlike  the  whortleberry;  and  after  a  tiresome  ride 
we  reached  the  point  which  we  had  seen  firom  the  val- 
ley. But  the  sun  had  set,  it  was  growing  dark,  and 
though  the  scene  would  probably  be  fine  during  the 
niglit,  there  was  no  pasture ;  what  I  had  mistaken 
for  grass  was  only  some  low,  scraggy  bushes. 

I  was  in  a  quandary,  and  began  to  deliberate  about 
making  up  my  bed  there,  and  allowing  the  guide  and 
servant  to  take  the  animals  to  pasture  wherever  it 
could  be  found.  But  this  did  not  last  long.  A  storm 
that  had  been  darkly  gathering  burst  suddenly  upon 
us. 

The  lightning  began  to  play  over  the  mountain- 
tops,  with  long  reverberating  peals  of  thunder,  and 
the  big  drops  of  rain  falHng  thick  and  fast  bid  fair 


84  THE     AEAUCANIANS. 

soon  to  wet  us  through.  There  was  no  shelter  at 
hand,  nor  any  to  be  found  without  retreating  more 
than  a  mile  to  a  deep  recess  among  the  hills,  bordered 
hj  a  grove  of  sombre  pines. 

Here  was  an  opportunity  of  passing  a  night  amidst 
all  the  elements  of  the  sublime.  But  the  thought  of  a 
thorough  drenching  and  nothing  to  eat,  to  be  followed 
by  colds  and  rheumatism,  threw  a  damper  over  all  my 
romantic  feelings,  and  off  we  scampered  at  a  furious 
rate,  over  a  plain  of  sand  and  ashes,  interrupted  by 
deep  gullies,  until  we  reached  a  friendly  tree,  whose 
low,  wide-spread  branches  offered  a  shelter  for  the 
night.  A  snow  bank,  that  may  have  lain  there  for 
ages,  furnished  a  trickling  stream,  around  which  the 
grass  was  green  and  fresh. 

Turning  adrift  the  tired  animals,  and  building  a  huge 
fire  with  the  dry  branches  that  lay  around,  we  soon 
had  an  encampment  worthy  of  the  gipsies  themselves. 

The  Capitan  spitted  a  piece  of  beef  on  a  stick,  and 
planting  it  over  the  fire,  before  long  it  made  a  savory 
supper,  without  other  seasoning  than  a  little  salt  and 
a  good  appetite.  Lying  down  under  the  tree,  we 
hacked  the  meat  to  pieces  with  our  jack-knives  in 
perfect  equality  and  good-fellowship. 

I  also  cut  up  some  charqui  and  onions,  which  I  put 
over  the  fire,  and  tried  to  make  some  soup.  But 
though  the  water  boiled  fiiriously,  neither  the  meat 
nor  the  onions  seemed  to  soften  at  all.  The  reflection 
that  at  such  an  elevation  the  boiling  point  must  be 
very  low,  solved  the  mystery,  and  I  tossed  the  soup 
away  without  venturing  a  philosophical  explanation 
to  my  companions.  , 


VOLCANO     OF     ANTUCO. 


85 


Our  beds  were  made  up  under  the  low,  hanging 
branches  of  the  tree ;  and  with  the  additional  precau- 
tion of  a  poncho  spread  overhead,  we  retired. 

The  rain  did  not  last  long.  The  lightnings  and 
thunder  continued,  producing  a  grand  effect  among  the 
mountain  tops ;  and  the  black  clouds  would  occasion- 
ally flash,  giving  back  a  lurid  light  from  the  volcano, 
which  was  hidden  firom  sight  by  a  projecting  hiU. 
But  the  nasal  tones  of  my  snoring  companions  seemed 
to  possess  a  greater  charm  than  the  echoing  thunders  ; 
and  I  soon  helped  to  form  a  trio,  forgetful  of  all  the 
sublimity  of  nature. 

By  daylight  we  were  up.  A  chilly,  piercing  wind 
came  down  from  the  ice-fields  around  us,  making  our 
teeth  chatter.  The  ground  was  golden,  in  patches, 
with  the  yellow  "^r  de  jperdiz,^''  The  first  strawber- 
ries were  but  just  blossoming.  On  the  plain,  far  be- 
low, the  autumnal  grain  stood  ripe  for  the  sickle ;  in 
the  near  valleys  we  saw  the  verdure  of  summer; 
here  it  was  but  early  spring,  and  but  a  little  way 
above  us  winter  reigned — an  eternal  winter ! 

After  a  long  chase  in  pursuit  of  the  animals  that 
had  wandered  off  to  seek  shelter  during  the  night,  we 
went  back  to  the  point  which  we  had  reached  the 
night  before.  From  this  place  we  clambered  up 
another  high  hiU,  which  offered  a  view  of  the  sur- 
rounding country. 

The  scene  impressed  me  with  a  sense  of  dreariness 
and  desolation  such  as  I  had  never  before  experi- 
enced. Gazing  in  whatsoever  direction,  not  a  liv- 
ing thing,  no  sound  of  life,  no  indication  of  animated 
existence   could   be   met:    all  was   an   uninhabited, 


86  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

uninhabitable  waste,  given  up  to  the  warring  ele- 
ments. 

Black  and  gloomy  the  vast  cone  of  Antuco  rose  be- 
fore our  eyes.  The  snowy  summit  stretched  far  away, 
while  the  broad  base  sprang  from  beneath  our  very 
feet.  As  we  hung  over  the  giddy  brink,  we  could 
see  where,  hundreds  of  feet  below,  the  black  tide  of 
lava  had  rolled  and  surged  against  the  rocky  wall  of 
the  precipice,  blocking  up,  with  a  solid  barrier  of  stone, 
the  bed  of  the  Laja,  damming  in  the  waters  of  the 
lake,  which  had  risen  more  than  twenty  feet,  but 
could  not  yet  escape. 

The  two  new  vents  which  had  been  opened  by  the 
late  explosion  were  upon  the  northern  side  of -the 
cone,  some  two-thirds  of  the  distance  up,  just  below 
the  snow  line,  and  about  on  a  level  with  the  spot  on 
which  we  stood. 

The  black  streams  of  scoriaceous  matter  which  had 
rolled  down,  were  spread  out  at  the  base  of  the  vol- 
cano to  the  width  of  about  half  a  mile.  Though  the 
eruption  had  ceased,  for  the  moment  at  least,  wreaths 
of  smoke  and  sulphureous  vapors  rose  along  fiery 
channels  in  the  principal  currents.  Occasionally  a 
small  jet  of  molten  matter  would  be  projected  over 
the  ledge  which  formed  the  brim  of  the  crater,  or  a 
half  melted  stone  would  come  wriggling  down,  with 
a  writhing,  uneasy  motion. 

The  booming,  cannon-like  explosions  that  we  had 
heard  from  the  village  of  Antuco  had  ceased;  but 
there  was  an  incessant  rattling  noise,  as  though, 
deep  in  the  bowels  of  the  earth,  the  crushed  and 
riven  rocks  were  tossing  and  grinding  together. »    It 


LAKE     LA  J  A.  87 

was  more  the  sound,  on  a  grand  scale,  of  bar-iron 
carted  through  a  stony  street,  than  any  thing  else 
I  could  remember.  The  noise  of  waters  dashing 
from  many  a  beetling  cliiF  into  the  lake  and  val- 
leys below,  was  the  only  other  sound  that  could  be 
heard. 

To  the  southwestward  of  the  volcano  stands  the 
Sierra  Velluda,  a  lofty,  rugged  mountain  mass,  shoot- 
ing up  in  sharp  pinnacles,  wrapped  in  glaciers  and 
fields  of  never-melting  snows. 

In  many  places  arise  walls  of  high,  perpendicular 
crags,  on  which  no  snows  can  rest;  forming,  with 
their  dark  purplish  hues,  a  bold  contrast  with  the 
white  drifts  around  them.  From  many  of  these  we 
could  distinguish  little  silvery  threads  of  cascades  de- 
scending to  swell  the  current  of  the  river. 

To  the  east  of  the  volcano  lies  the  lake  of  the  Laja, 
a  body  of  water  some  seven  miles  long,  and  from  one 
to  three  broad,  curving  around  the  base  of  the  cone. 
As  we  stood  upon  the  edge  of  the  cliff,  a  pebble  could 
have  been  dropped  into  the  water,  which  lay  green, 
calm,  and  noiseless  beneath.  No  ripple  disturbed  the 
surface — ^no  bird  played  upon  its  bosom ;  and  enveloped 
in  morning  mist,  with  mountains  rising  dark  and  blue 
upon  the  farther  shore,  so  gloomy,  so  deathlike,  it 
seemed  a  fit  companion  for  the  desolate  Antuco,  upon 
whose  vast  sides  not  a  blade  of  grass,  nor  any  other 
sign  of  life  existed. 

This  lake  had  been  described  to  me  as  beautiful ; 

with  the  bright  sunshine  lighting  up  the  shores  with 

a  joyous  smile,  and  dancing  upon  the  waters  ruffled 

)y  the  breeze.     It  might  be  so ;  but  we  saw  it  far 


88  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

otherwise;  and  it  awakened,  in  my  bosom  at  least, 
no  pleasing  emotions. 

The  impressions  caused  by  the  whole  scene  were 
of  sadness,  dejection,  and  awe.  Though  interesting 
as  a  study  of  one  of  the  most  wonderful  agents  in  the 
formation  of  the  physical  world,  there  was  nothing  in 
the  sight  calculated  to  cheer  and  elevate  the  mind. 
It  did  not  seem  to  be  the  contemplation  of  Nature, 
ever  beautiful  in  her  works ;  but  of  her  black  and 
smouldering  ruins — the  evidences  of  her  wrath. 

If  the  ascent  had  been  difficult,  the  descent  was 
none  the  less  so.  In  some  places  we  could  ride,  but 
in  others  it  was  impossible.  Even  the  Capitan  was 
convinced  that  there  are  some  places  where  it  is  easier 
to  get  along  afoot  than  on  horseback ;  but  it  was  not 
without  considerable  grumbling  that  he  dismounted 
and  trusted  himself  to  his  own  feet. 

The  old  Andalusian  song  says — 

"  Para  las  cuestas  arriba 

Quiero  mi  mulo, 

Pero  las  cuestas  abajo 

Yo  me  las  subo." 

But  the  Chileno  is  not  apt  to  spare  his  beast  even 
in  going  downhiU,  and  the  veritable  "  Guaso"  never 
thinks  himself  so  safe  as  when  on  his  horse.* 

*  A  young  American  in  Santiago,  an  enthusiastic  Nimrod,  was 
wont  occasionally  to  shoulder  his  rifle  and  start  off  to  the  mount- 
ains in  pursuit  of  game.  One  of  his  favorite  resorts  was  the  "  Da- 
hesa,"  an  estate  high  up  the  side  of  the  Cordillera,  and  he  became 
famous,  thereabout,  for  his  clambering  propensities  and  unerring  skill 
in  bringing  down  the  swift-footed  "guanacos"  that  frequent  the 
lofty  summits,  and  bound  like  the  chamois  from  cliff  to  cliff. 

After  one  of  these  excursions,  Don  Manuel,  the  hospitable  ^ropri- 


DESCENT  OF  THE  VOLCANO,      89 

Driving  the  animals  on  ahead,  we  followed  in  their 
tracks,  which  formed  for  us  a  path.  In  many  spots 
they  would  put  their  forefeet  together  and  slide.  We, 
too,  were  more-  than  once  treated  to  a  slide,  getting 
along  over  the  loose  ashes  and  scoria  in  a  manner 
highly  detrimental  to  pantaloons. 

We  reached  the  bottom  in  much  less  time  than  it 
had  taken  us  to  ascend ;  but  not  without  some  hard 
rubs  and  serious  damage  to  our  boots.  The  horses' 
feet  were  cut  by  the  sharp  firagments  of  lava,  and  one 
of  my  animals  was  so  much  injured  as  to  be  ever 
after  almost  useless ;  his  feet  remaining  so  tender  that 
he  could  never  get  over  stony  ground  without  limping. 

I  had  a  great  desire  to  scale  the  volcano — ^the  top 
of  which,  the  guide  informed  me,  had  never  been 
reached,  although  some  foreigners  had  ascended  the 
gi'eater  part  of  the  way ;  but  it  would  have  required 
considerable  time  and  expense,  and  as  neither  the 
guide  nor  the  servant  could  be  persuaded  to  make  the 
attempt,  I  was  obliged  to  abandon  the  idea.  They 
both  of  them  seemed  filled  with  a  superstitious  dread 
of  they  knew  not  what,  and  on  my  suggesting  an  at- 
tempt to  reach  the  crater  and  look  into  it,  they  shook 
their  heads  and  answered,  ^'Quien  sabe,  Sehor,  si  no 
se  ejioje  el  volcan  T  ("Who  knows  but  the  volcano 
would  get  angry.") 

etor  of  the  estate  came  to  the  city,  and  called  to  see  us.  Wanning 
under  the  genial  influence  of  a  steaming  punch,  he  gave  us  a  glow- 
ing description  of  the  hunt  and  the  skill  of  our  Nimrod  with  the 
rifle ;  but  Avhat  seemed  most  to  surprise  him  was  the  hunter's  agility 
in  scaling  the  mountain-sides.  "  By  the  Holy  Virgin !"  he  exclaim- 
ed, bringing  down  his  glass  with  a  crash,  "  that  young  rascal  would 
climb  up  afoot  in  places  where  I  could  not  go  even  on  horseback  /" 


90  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

I  am  not  sure  that  they  were  folly  satisfied  with 
the  nature  and  objects  of  my  expedition ;  they  proba- 
bly connected  it  in  some  way  with  the  black  art,  or 
the  search  for  treasures ;  the  fact  of  traveling  purely 
in  pursuit  of  knowledge  or  pleasure  they  could  not 
understand. 

An  amusing  incident,  illustrative  of  this  feeling 
among  the  lower  classes,  had  happened  on  my  journey 
from  Los  Angelos  to  the  village  of  Antuco.  We  were 
overtaken  upon  the  road  by  a  countryman,  who,  riding 
up,  fell  into  conversation  with  my  servant.  As  their 
discourse  was  of  no  interest  to  me,  I  started  on  ahead, 
preferring  to  be  left  to  my  own  thoughts  ;  but  soon  I 
noticed  that  they  were  talking  mysteriously  in  an  un- 
der tone,  interrupted  occasionally  by  exclamations  of 
surprise. 

Arriving  at  a  brook  I  dismounted  to  drink,  scoop- 
ing up  the  water  in  my  hand.  The  countryman  im- 
mediately came  forward,  and  pulling  out  a  horn-cup 
offered  it  for  my  use. 

After  drinldng  I  started  on  again,  but  he  of  the  cup 
evidently  thought  that  "  one  good  turn  deserved  an- 
other," for  bringing  himself  alongside  he  opened  on 
me  in  real  Yankee  style.  With  great  dexterity  he 
discovered  whence  I  had  come,  and  whither  I  went ; 
but  not  finding  me  communicative,  l;e  began  to  sur- 
mise that  there  were  great  quantities  of  gold  in  the 
volcano.  I  thought  not.  "Nor  silver?"  "No." 
"Nor  copper?"     "No." 

"There  are  no  precious  stones  in  the  lake,  are 
there  ?"  he  asked,  looking  very  knowing. 

"Probably  not  many."  t, 


INQUISITIVENESS     OP     THE     GUASOS.     91 

''''Pero  su  merced  va  trd^minar  la  lacuna,  jS'nor, 
por  eso  trujo  la  maquina  sin  dudaf  ("But  you  are 
a-going  to  look  through  the  lake,  I  guess,  or  else  you 
wouldn't  have  brought  that  machine  along?")  said  he, 
pointing  to  the  camera-tripod  strapped  upon  the  mule. 

I  could  hear  it  no  longer,  but  putting  spurs  to  my 
horse  hurried  on  at  full  gallop  to  be  rid  of  his  com- 
pany. 

As  the  camera  was  something  he  could  not  compre- 
hend, he  had  taken  for  granted  that  it  was  some  mys- 
terious instrument  enabling  its  possessor  to  peer  into 
the  most  hidden  recesses  of  the  earth  and  discover 
deeply-buried  treasures.  My  explanation,  that  I  had 
no  object  but  curiosity  and  pleasure,  only  served  to 
convince  him  that  his  suspicions  were  correct. 

Having  reached  the  valley  we  turned  our  faces  from 
the  volcano,  and  started  for  the  village  of  Antuco. 
Near  the  Tuvunlevu  we  halted,  and  while  the  men 
were  engaged  in  making  "  charquican"  for  breakfast, 
I  took  a  sketch  of  the  volcano,  from  a  spot  where  the 
view  was  enhanced  by  a  pretty  little  double  fall  in  the 
foreground. 

We  left  the  Capitan  at  his  house,  near  Ballenar. 

When  within  an  hour's  ride  of  Antuco,  while  pass- 
ing through  a  patch 'of  woods,  considerably  in  ad- 
vance of  my  servant,  I  heard  a  loud  shouting,  and 
the  sound  of  horses  approaching.  Looking  down  the 
road,  I  saw  a  party  of  drunken  Indians  coming  to- 
ward me. 

Near  at  hand  was  a  path  diverging  from  the  road, 
and  thinking  that  a  band  of  drunken  savages  might 
be  troublesome  in  such  a  place,  I  turned  my  horse 


92  THEARAUCANIANS. 

aside,  still  keeping  my  eyes  fixed  upon  the  main 
road.  Suddenly  I  felt  a  violent  jerk  upon  the  throat, 
and  found  that  I  had  been  taken  under  the  chin  by  a 
branch,  which,  as  the  horse  moved  on,  was  dragging 
me  out  of  the  saddle.  With  some  difficulty  I  reined 
back,  and  an  examination  showed  many  hanging 
branches  ahead,  stopping  further  advance,  and  oblig- 
ing me  to  retreat.  Just  then  the  Indians  came  up, 
saluting  me  with  a  loud  "  Mari !  mari !" 

"Mari!  mari!"  I  shouted,  gathering  up  the  reins 
at  the  same  time,  intending  to  dash  past  them.  But 
the  manoeuvre  was  anticipated,  for  checking  their 
horses  they  formed  a  semicircle,  completely  blocking 
up  the  road. 

As  they  sat  before  me,  drunk,  bloated,  half  naked, 
their  eyes  inflamed,  and  their  faces  horribly  painted, 
I  felt  no  assurance  of  their  good  intentions,  and  al- 
most involuntarily  slipping  a  hand  under  my  poncho, 
I  cocked  my  revolver. 

The  spokesman,  a  young,  good-looking  savage,  ad- 
vancing a  little,  addressed  me  in  broken  Spanish,  and 
inquired  if  I  had  not  been  to  see  the  volcano :  I 
answered  that  I  had.  A  number  of  questions  were 
then  asked.  "Was  the  volcano  angry?"  "Had 
the  explosions  ceased  ?"  "  Would  the  old  road,  which 
ran  along  the  margin  of  the  lake  and  had  been  covered 
by  the  lava,  be  soon  passable,  etc.  ?"  To  all  these 
I  answered  as  favorably  as  possible. 

After  my  answers  had  been  duly  interpreted,  an  old 
man,  evidently  the  chief,  grunted  out  something,  which 
the  spokesman  translated,  to  the  effect  that  they  had 
been  a  long  time  in  Antuco,  behaving  them  selves 'very 


NEAELY     AN     ADVENT  UK  E.  93 

well,  and  he  thought  that,  in  consideration  of  their 
sobriety,  as  none  of  them  had  been  drunk^  I  ought  to 
give  them  a  real  (12  J  cents). 

The  leer  and  hiccup  with  which  this  was  spoken, 
sadly  belied  the  words ;  but  I  cheerfully  handed  the 
old  man  a  quarter  of  a  dollar,  and  the  moro  coming 
up  at  the  moment,  we  rode  on,  as  much  amused  as 
gratified  at  the  termination  of  almost  an  adventure. 

Passing  the  night  at  Antuco,  we  left  the  next  day 
for  Los  Angelos. 

With  the  volcano,  the  rugged  Sierra  Yelluda,  the 
mountain  brooks,  and  the  foaming  cascades  so  near 
at  hand,  I  would  willingly  have  remained  a  week  lon- 
ger at  Antuco,  rambling  about  the  country  with  the 
good-natured  priest,  and  the  companionable  young 
officers :  but  the  season  was  advancing ;  the  grapes 
were  beginning  to  ripen;  the  apples  were  assuming 
a  mellow  hue,  suggestive  of  wine  and  cider,  and  re- 
minding me  that,  if  bent  on  an  Indian  excursion,  it 
were  desirable  to  start  before  the  season  of  drunken- 
ness should  set  in. 

On  the  road  to  Los  Angelos  I  noticed  three  high 
crosses  erected  in  a  vineyard.  One  of  these  had  a 
rude  ladder  attached,  thus  serving  the  double  purpose 
of  a  charm  against  the  machinations  of  the  evil  one, 
and  a  watch-tower,  from  which  the  vineyard  tender 
could  glance  over  the  extended  fields,  and  detect 
any  who  might  be  prowling  around  to  steal  the 
fruit.  Small  crosses  are  often  seen  planted  in  fields 
of  grain ;  but  this  was  the  first  that  seemed  calcu- 
lated to  serve  some  useful  purpose,  though  it  was  a 
sad  union  of  sacred  and  profane. 


94  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

After  riding  for  a  long  time  in  the  hot  sun  without 
meeting  any  running  stream,  we  spied  a  farm-house 
in  the  distance,  and  going  to  it  we  asked  for  a  glass 
of  water. 

"  There  is  not  a  drop  of  water  within  a  mile  of  the 
house,"  said  an  old  woman  who  came  to  the  door, 
"  but  we  can  give  you  some  '  chicha  de  manzanos'  (ci- 
der) that  is  very  nice !"  producing  at  the  word  a  huge 
glass  of  a  greenish,  muddy  liquid.  To  call  it  vine- 
gar would  he  too  high  a  compliment,  and  to  add  that 
it  was  flavored  with  gall,  would  convey  no  adequate 
idea  of  this  abominable  stuff,  which  had  been  made 
from  the  very  greenest  of  green  apples  ;  one  mouthftd 
sufficed  for  me,  and  my  first  impressions  of  chicha  de 
manzanos  were  not  favorable ;  but  the  guide  tossed  it 
off  with  evident  relish. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

The  Policeman's  Horse. — Visit  to  a  Hacienda. — Branding  Cattle. — 
Farming  in  Chili. — Chilian  Wine. — The  limits  of  the  Polka. — 
Traveling  in  Carts. 

Eaely  in  the  morning  a  gentleman  came  and  in- 
vited me  to  join  in  a  picnic  excursion  to  a  neighbor- 
ing hacienda. 

The  invitation  was  gladly  accepted,  but  the  ques- 
tion arose — ^how  was  I  to  go?  Not  only  were  my 
horses  tired,  but  they  had  been  sent  to  a  distant  pas- 
ture :  several  horses  were  placed  at  my  disposal,  but, 
like  my  own,  they  were  all  at  a  distance ;  an  hour  or 
two  would  be  lost  in  sending  for  them;  the  party 
were  all  mounted  and  ready  to  start.  In  the  emer- 
gency I  called  a  "vigilante"  (day-policeman),  and 
asked  him  if  he  knew  any  one  in  the  village  that  had 
a  horse  to  hire. 

"I  have  an  excellent  one  myself,"  he  answered, 
and  posted  off  to  bring  it. 

As  a  "vigilante's"  horse  is  a  thing  proverbial  in 
Chili,  I  was  not  surprised  when  the  animal  arrived ; 
he  was  a  good  specimen  of  his  race,  and  might  have 
served  as  a  model  for  Bosinante.  As  he  stood  with 
his  legs  stretched  out  so  as  to  cover  the  greatest  pos- 
sible surface,  with  every  rib  and  joint  protruding,  he 
appeared  like  some  huge  phantom  invested  with  the 
skin  of  a  smaller  brother.     His  tail  was  elevated  at  a 


96  THE     AKAUCANIANS. 

remarkable  angle ;  his  ears  seemed  watching  for  the 
slightest  sound,  and  his  distended  eyes  rolled  about 
incessantly,  as  if  he  felt  it  incumbent  upon  himself, 
as  a  member  of  the  police,  to  be  continually  on  the 
alert. 

Though  fully  aware  of  the  figure  I  should  cut, 
I  immediately  struck  a  bargain,  satisfied  that  the 
party  should  be  amused,  even  if  at  my  own  expense. 

As  I  shook  the  reins  to  arrange  them,  my  charger 
bounded  forward  with  a  vehemence  that  nearly  shot 
me  off  behind,  and  as  I  drew  upon  the  bit  he  halted 
with  a  jerk,  threatening  to  pitch  me  over  his  head. 
A  slight  touch  of  my  boot  on  his  ribs  would  cause 
him  to  whirl  about,  suddenly,  in  one  direction,  and 
an  unequal  pressure  upon  the  other  side  would  make 
him  twirl  back  with  the  greatest  rapidity. 

At  every  demonstration  of  this  kind  there  was  a 
round  of  applause  firom  the  by-standers,  and  at  first  I 
imagined  that  a  vicious  brute  had  been  palmed  oiF  on 
me.  But  five  minutes  spent  in  studying  his  actions 
made  me  acquainted  with  his  whole  system  of  tactics : 
he  was  merely  obeying  signals  with  which  every-day 
practice  had  made  him  familiar — the  horsemanship  of 
the  police  being  peculiar,  and  in  a  great  measure  tele- 
graphic. 

Once  understood,  there  was  no  further  difficulty; 
he  could  be  managed  admirably  without  whip  or  spur, 
for,  despite  his  ill-looks,  he  was  intelligent,  and  had 
a  good  deal  of  fire  still  left. 

On  the  road  every  passer-by  would  turn  to  look  at 
the  sorry  appearance  I  presented  amidst  the  dashing 
throng  of  gay  caballeros,  most  of  whom  were  ^finely 


VISIT    TO    A     HACIENDA.  97 

mounted.  The  history  of  my  steed  was  plainly  writ- 
ten in  his  every  movement,  and  occasionally  some 
wag  would  put  his  fingers  to  his  mouth  and  salute 
my  ears  with  an  imitation  of  the  peculiar  whistle  used 
by  the  "vigilantes."  At  that  familiar  sound  my  horse 
started  off  at  full  run,  and  when  checked  by  the  bridle, 
fell  back  upon  his  haunches  as  though  he  thought  I 
were  in  the  act  of  throwing  the  lasso  of  justice  around 
the  neck  of  some  fugitive  malefactor. 

Arriving  at  the  hacienda  we  were  cordially  received 
by  the  proprietor.  This  gentleman,  seeing  that  I  was 
a  foreigner,  took  much  pleasure  in  showing  me,  as  far 
as  the  -limited  time  would  allow,  the  extent  of  his 
estate,  and  the  method  of  its  cultivation. 

Land  in  Chili  is  measured  by  the  "  quadra"  (about 
3f  acres).  This  hacienda,  though  not  considered  un- 
usually large,  contained  over  seven  thousand  quadras. 
Two  thousand  of  these  were  pasture  lands — some  four 
thousand  lying  off  on  the  mountains  were  wood  land 
— about  four  hundred  were  planted  with  wheat,  and 
the  rest  was  principally  laid  out  in  vineyards.  The 
different  division  lines  were  formed  by  deep  trenches 
in  lieu  of  fences,  and  as  we  gazed  in  every  direction, 
the  estate  appeared  boundless — hemmed  in  only  by 
the  snows  of  the  Andes  and  the  blue  horizon  of  the 
plain. 

We  saw  many  fine  cattle,  but  most  of  those  be- 
longing to  the  place  were  at  a  distance  from  the  part 
we  visited. 

To  foreigners  who  are  accustomed  to  see  cattle 
raised  and  carefully  tended  for  dairy  purposes,  the 
system  pursued  in  Chili  is  novel.     Vast  herds,  being 

E 


I 

98  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

valued  only  for  their  flesh  and  hides,  are  allowed  to 
run  wild  among  the  mountains,  simply  with  the  pre- 
caution of  a  few  tenants  stationed  near  the  boundaries 
to  prevent  the  animals  from  straying  away  to  other 
estates.  From  valley  to  valley  they  rove,  continu- 
ally ascending  as,  with  the  summer  sun,  the  plains 
parch  up  and  the  snows  retu'e,  leaving  fresh  pastur- 
age on  the  mountain  sides.  When  winter  approaches 
they  gradually  descend  to  the  plain,  though  it  often 
happens  that  they  are  overtaken  by  sudden  storms  of 
snow,  and  many  perish. 

Once  a  year  there  is  a  grand  reunion  of  all  the 
cattle,  which  are  driyen  down  to  the  "  corrals,"  as  the 
pens  are  called,  where  the  branding  and  slaughtering 
are  carried  on. 

On  this  occasion,  as  on  all  others,  when  large  num- 
bers of  hands  are  required,  the  labor  is  performed  by 
the  "inquilinos"  (tenants),  who,  for  the  privilege  of 
living  on  the  estate,  are  obliged  to  render  a  certain 
amount  of  service  annually  to  the  proprietor. 

At  this  time  the  Chilian  "Guaso,"  as  the  country 
people  are  called,  is  seen  in  perfection.  Dressed  in 
his  most  gaudy  apparel,  and  mounted  on  his  best 
horse,  he  scours  recklessly  over  hill  and  dale,  swing- 
ing his  lasso,  and  pouring  forth  a  volley  of  oaths  as 
some  refractory  anipal  eludes  his  pursuit ;  with  his 
legs  cased  in  overalls  of  untanned  hide,  he  dashes  fear- 
lessly after  the  stragglers  as  they  fly  over  rocks  and 
stones,  and  amidst  the  clumps  of  the  cactus,  armed 
with  formidable  spines. 

Every  one  has  his  station  fixed  in  some  part  of  the 
circle  formed  to  surround  the  herds,  and  strives  to 


j 


BRANDING      CATTLE.    .  99 

drive  them  to  a  central  point.  As  the  circle  contracts 
the  air  resounds  with  shouts  and  laughter ;  each  feat 
of  dexterity,  each  narrow  escape  from  the  horns  of 
an  infuriated  animal,  is  hailed  with  loud  acclama- 
tions. All  exert  themselves  to  display,  to  the  ad- 
miration of  their  neighbors,  their  own  dexterity,  and 
the  fleetness,  strength,  and  heauty  of  their  horses; 
each  one  recounts  again  and  again  the  wondrous 
deeds  which  he  has  performed  during  the  day,  not 
unfirequently  drawing  upon  imagination  for  details,  or 
weaving  into  his  story  all  the  prodigies  of  horseman- 
ship and  valor  that  he  has  heard  narrated  from  in- 
fancy. 

When  collected  in  some  convenient  spot  the  sepa- 
ration of  the  animals  commences. 

The  yearlings  are  driven  oflf  to  one  pen.     As  each 
me  enters  he  is  lassoed  and  thrown  to  the  ground; 

le  hot-iron  hisses  for  a  moment  on  his  side,  or  the 
point  of  a  knife  cuts  some  rude  cipher  on  his  quiver- 

ig  thigh ;  he  rises  bearing  the  peculiar  mark  of  the 
jstate,  and  trots  off  to  give  place  to  others.  Any 
)f  the  older  animals  that  may  have  outgrown  their 

lark,  are  rebranded. 

Another  pen  is  constructed  for  slaughtering;  into 
this  leads  a  narrow  lane,  down  which  the  animals  are 
[■  furiously  driven.  As  each  one  comes  in,  a  man,  con- 
jealed  at  the  entrance,  steps  forward,  and  with  an  un- 
blow  hamstrings  the  passing  animal,  which 
)lunges  and  faUs  upon  a  hide  stretched  on  the 
Aground  for  its  reception.  Forth  steps  another  man, 
and  with  the  blow  of  an  ax  stuns  the  prostrate  vic- 
tim;  a  pair  of  horses,  mounted  and  harnessed,  are 


m 


100  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

hooked  to  the  hide,  and  spring  forward  under  the  spur, 
bearing  away  the  lifeless  carcass  amidst  a  blinding 
cloud  of  dust. 

Another  hide  is  spread  with  a  nice  calculation  of 
distance,  and  the  hamstringer  stands  ready  to  tumble 
another  victim  upon  it,  by  striking  at  the  exact  mo- 
ment, which  long  experience  has  taught  him. 

The  carcasses  are  borne  a  short  distance  to  where 
the  butchers  are  at  work.  The  hide  is  stripped  off, 
stretched  out,  staked  down  on  the  ground,  flesh  side 
up,  and,  with  a  slight  scraping,  it  is  left  to  dry. 

The  flesh  is  taken  off  in  layers  as  the  muscles  run, 
and,  with  a  slight  sprinkling  of  salt,  hung  up  in  the 
open  air;  by  the  action  of  sun  and  wind,  in  an  at- 
mosphere remarkably  pure  and  free  from  moisture,  it 
soon  becomes  dry  and  hard,  forming  the  jerked  beef 
of  commerce.  When  retailed  it  is  commonly  sold  by 
the  yard. 

The  bones  are  considered  valueless ;  the  horns  are 
made  into  cups  and  other  such  articles.  These  horn 
cups  are  used  almost  to  the  exclusion  of  glass  among 
the  lower  classes,  with  whom,  also,  the  jerked  beef 
forms  the  principal  article  of  food. 

The  animals  not  intended  for  slaughter,  but  re- 
served for  stock,  are  counted  and  driven  back  to 
pasture. 

All  these  various  operations  give  constant  employ- 
ment to  a  large  number  of  men  for  a  week  or  more, 
and  require  the  supervision  of  the  proprietor,  who,  as 
a  general  rule,  spends  the  greater  part  of  his  time  in 
the  capital,  or  in  some  of  the  larger  towns,  visiting 
his  estates,  which  are  left  in  charge  of  overseers^  only 


PARMINa     IN     CHILI.  101 

at  the  busy  seasons  of  slaughtering,  planting,  harvest- 
ing, and  vintage. 

The  immense  fields  of  wheat  standing  ready  for  the 
sickle  excited  my  admiration.  The  climate  of  Chili 
is  peculiarly  ad|ipted  to  the  cultivation  of  this  grain, 
and  when  facilities  for  irrigation  are  at  hand,  the  yield 
is  great  and  the  quality  excellent.  The  mode  of  its 
culture  is  of  the  most  primitive  kind. 

The  plow  is  formed  of  a  log  sharpened  to  a  point ; 
a  sapling  inserted  at  the  proper  angle  serves  as  the 
tongue ;  a  single  upright  stick  answers  as  a  handle, 
which  the  plowman  grasps  in  one  hand,  while  in  the 
other  he  carries  a  long  goad  with  which  to  guide  the 
oxen.  The  point  of  the  plow  is  sometimes  shod  with 
iron,  but,  even  then,  the  furrow  it  makes  is  but  a  mere 
scratch  upon  the  surface.  The  only  harrow  used  is  a 
bunch  of  bramble  bushes,  loaded  with  several  large 
stones,  upon  which  the  driver  sits. 

When  the  grain  is  cut  it  is  placed  in  immense  piles 
in  the  open  air.  Around  these,  at  a  distance  of  some 
yards  from  the  base,  a  fence  is  built  with  an  opening 
on  one  side.  Into  the  ring  so  formed,  a  troop  of  mares 
(kept  upon  every  estate  for  this  purpose)  are  driven 
by  horsemen,  who,  following  in  the  rear,  urge  them 
on  at  their  greatest  speed,  while  from  the  top  of  the 
heap  a  dozen  boys  throw  down  the  sheaves  of  wheat 
upon  the  track.  After  five  or  ten  minutes  the  mares 
are  let  out  into  an  adjoining  pen ;  the  grain  is  raked 
over  and  spread  evenly  upon  the  course,  fresh  sheaves 
are  added,  and  again  the  mares  are  driven  in. 

By  this  process  large  quantities  of  wheat  are 
thrashed  in  a  short  time,  at  a  trifling  expense,  and 


102  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

with  much  less  injury  to  the  grain  than  might  be  sup- 
posed: as  the  track  soon  becomes  hard,  there  is  but 
little  admixture  of  dirt.  The  greatest  objection  is  the 
loss  of  the  straw,  which  is  beaten  to  powder. 

The  winnowing  is  performed  by  simply  throwing 
the  grain  into  the  air  with  shovels,  the  wind  carrying 
off  the  chaff  while  the  grain  falls  to  the  ground. 

The  fact  that,  in  this  plain,  the  wind  blows  with 
great  regularity  from  certain  directions,  according  to 
the  hour  of  the  day,  renders  the  cleaning  of  large 
quantities  of  wheat  by  this  method,  comparatively 
easy. 

Some  of  the  wealthy  land-owners  in  ChUi  have 
endeavored  to  introduce  European  instruments  and 
methods  of  cultivation  upon  their  estates,  but  hitherto 
with  little  success.  The  laboring  classes  are  more 
inclined  to  look  backward  than  forward,  reverting 
always  to  the  usages  of  their  fathers,  and  having 
an  unconquerable  aversion  to  innovations,  especially 
if  demanding  too  much  application,  either  mental 
or  physical.  The  foreign  implements  have  gener- 
ally been  quickly  ruined  either  through  ignorance  or 
malice,  and  the  laborers  have  returned  to  their  old 
ways. 

A  large  vineyard  rendered  this  estate  complete ;  for 
in  Chili  the  three  great  branches  of  husbandry  are 
the  breeding  of  animals  (principally  horned-cattle),  the 
raising  of  wheat,  and  the  culture  of  the  vine.  Other 
branches,  however  important,  are  generally  carried  on 
by  small  proprietors,  being  either  not  sufficiently  prof- 
itable, or  too  troublesome  to  engage  the  attention  of 
capitalists.  , 


CHILIAN     WINE.  103 

^  When  the  vintage  is  small  the  grapes  are  trodden 
out  by  men,  as  in  southern  Europe ;  but  where  the 
produce  of  immense  vineyards  is  used  entirely  for 
making  wine,  the  grapes  are  placed  in  large  circu- 
lar troughs  and  trodden  out  by  horses ;  the  juice 
runs  off  into  vats,  where  it  is  left  for  fermentation. 
When  fermented,  the  wine,  if  not  sold,  is  poured 
into  large  earthen- ware  jars,  six  or  seven  feet  in 
height,  which  are  closely  covered  and  sealed  with  clay 
or  pitch. 

Though  the  grape  grows  in  Chili  in  the  greatest 
profusion  and  of  excellent  quality — owing  to  some  cli- 
matic influence,  improper  culture,  or  defect  in  the  after 
process — the  wines  do  not  contain  a  sufficiently  large 
proportion  of  alcohol,  and  will  seldom  keep  without  an 
admixture  of  spirits,  or  of  wine  which  has  been  boiled 
down. 

The  "  mostos"  of  the  southern  provinces  are  rich, 
and  sobiewhat  like  port ;  but  as  they  are  rarely  kept 
for  more  than  a  year,  one  of  the  chief  essentials  to 
good  wines — namely,  age — ^is  wanting  to  give  them  the 
flavor  of  the  celebrated  Europeon  brands, 

A  few  foreigners  have  undertaken  to  make  fine 
wines  in  the  country,  but  never  on  a  sufficiently  ex- 
tensive scale  to  exert  any  beneficial  influence ;  and 
though  her- advantages  for  the  culture  of  the  grape  are 
perhaps  unsurpassed,  it  must  be  many  years  before 
Chili  can  enter  the  market  in  competition  with  the  wine 
countries  of  the  old  world. 

*'  Chicha,"  as  the  new  wine  is  called,  is  consumed 
in  great  quantities,  and  is  an  agreeable  beverage  to 
those   somewhat  accustomed  to  its  use;    but  in  its 


104  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

crude,  fermenting  state,  it  can  not  be  other  than  inju- 
rious to  health. 

The  farm-hpuse,  like  most  others  on  the  estates 
throughout  Chili,  was  a  long,  one-storj  building,  con- 
structed of  adobes  and  roofed  with  tiles  :  the  doors 
were  rudely  made  of  heavy  timber ;  the  windows  were 
iron-barred,  unglazed,  and  ftirnished  with  board  shut- 
ters to  keep  out  the  wind.  In  a  long,  low  parlor, 
the  company  was  drawn  up  in  the  old-fashioned  way, 
in  two  rows,  confronting  each  other  across  a  narrow 
strip  of  carpet  spread  along  one  side  of  the  room. 
About  a  dozen  young  ladies  were  present,  accom- 
panied by  their  ever- watchful  mammas,  and  as  many 
of  the  former  played  the  guitar  and  sang,  we  soon 
had  the  zamacuca  in  full  blast.  Now  and  then  a 
polka  or  a  waltz  would  strike  up,  and  a  few  couples 
would  have  the  boldness  to  venture  it — no  easy  work 
on  a  narrow  strip  of  carpet  (to  which  etiquette  seem- 
ed to  confine  the  dancers),  spread  on  a  rough  brick 
floor. 

I  asked  a  young  lady  to  accompany  me  in  the 
polka,  but  she  declined:  an  application  in  another 
quarter  met  with  the  same  result,  and  I  gave  up 
the  chase.  It  so  happened  that  the  two  ladies 
were  sisters;  for  finding  myself,  soon  after,  seated 
beside  an  old  lady,  she  informed  me  that  they  were 
her  daughters,  and  was  kind  enough  to  make  me  an 
apology  for  the  refusal  I  had  received. 

"You  will  please  excuse  the  girls,"  she  said,  "for 
t\iQY  have  promised  their  father  confessor  not  to  dance 
the  polka  for  two  Tnonthsy 

I  was  much  amused  by  the  old  lady's  naivete,  and 


TRAVELING     IN    CARTS.  105 

coTild  not  help  telling  her  that  I  thought  the  "  padre 
confessor"  would  have  done  better  had  he  even  pro- 
hibited such  dances  altogether. 

About  sunset  the  party  broke  up ;  the  gentlemen 
saddled  and  mounted  their  horses ;  but  the  ladies 
were  furnished  with  a  very  different  kind  of  locomo- 
tion. A  huge  cart,  drawn  by  four  oxen,  came  lum- 
bering up  to  the  door.  The  body  of  this  vehicle  was 
covered  with  a,  high  arched  top,  built  of  cane-work 
and  reeds,  perforated  at  the  sides  with  small  barred 
Windows,  open  at  each  end,  and  hung  with  white 
and  red  curtains.  The  whole  affair  had  the  appear- 
ance of  a  small  house  on  wheels.  The  bottom  of 
the  cart  was  spread  with  mattresses,  pillows,  rugs, 
and  cushions ;  the  ladies  were  lifted  in ;  the  guitar 
struck  up,  and  the  whole  cavalcade  moved  off  with 
many  adieus. 

Some  of  the  gay  caballeros  rode  close  behind,  con- 
versing with  the  fair  senoritas,  whom  the  fluttering 
curtains  occasionally  disclosed  huddled  together  among 
the  rugs  and  pillows ;  others  kept  alongside,  gazing 
through  the  windows,  or  joining  in  the  chonis  of  the 
song;  while  a  few,  who  had  done  full  justice  to  our 
host's  rich  vintage,  were  riding  furiously  back  and 
forth,  racing  their  horses  over  the  level  road. 

The  oxen  did  not  move  very  fast,  despite  the  con- 
stant goading  of  an  individual  who  sat  astraddle  of 
the  cart-tongue,  calling  them  by  such  names  as  "Mari- 
)Osa!"  "Golondrina!"  (Butterfly,  Swallow) — and  it 
[was  a  late  hour  of  the  night  before  we  reached  the 
^town. 

These  carts  are  much  used  for  moving  about  the 
E* 


106  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

country,  and  even  in  Santiago  thej  may  be  seen  lum- 
bering thi'ougli  the  streets  full  of  gayly-dressed  wo- 
men. But  their  use  in  the  cities  is  generally  confined 
to  people  of  a  very  low  class;  for  most  of  the  better 
families  keep  their  own  carriages,  many  of  which  arq 
very  elegant,  and  even  those  who  do  not,  would  sel- 
dom avail  themselves  of  such  a  conveyance  except  for 
some  special  object. 


CHAPTER   IX. 

Halting-places  of  the  Dead. — San  Carlos  de  Puren. — A  pleasant  Bed- 
fellow.— Nacimiento. — River  Vergara. — Life  at  Nacimiento. — The 
Old  Lady. — A  Scoi-pion. 

At  Los  Angelos — so  near  the  Araucanian  boundary 
— I  had  expected  to  Ibe  able  to  procure  every  inform- 
ation in  regard  to  the  Indians  and  their  territory; 
but  the  ideas  of  most  of  those  whom  I  met  I  found 
to  be  very  vague.  No  one  gave  me  encouragement ; 
nearly  every  one  dissuaded  me  ;  and  many  assured 
me  that  my  contemplated  expedition  would  be  at? 
tended  with  great  risk,  both  to  property  and  to  life. 
Even  the  Intendente,  though  he  offered  to  give  me. 
every  assistance  in  his  power,  thought  that  I  was 
about  to  expose  myself  to  danger. 

Such  being  the  case,  and  rinding  no  servant  willing 
to  accompany  me,  I  determined  to  push  on  to  Naci- 
miento. As  that  town  lies  within  the  Indian  terri- 
tory, I  hoped  to  find  there  traders  or  others  whom 
^business  might  lead  to  Yaldivia  by  the  route  I  wished 
to  pursue,  and  who  would  be  glad  to  have  an  acces- 
sion to  their  numbers. 

I  was  accompanied  by  a  Capitan  de  Amigos,  who 

rejoiced  in  the  sounding  name  of  Pantaleon  Sanchez. 

■here  was  really  no  necessity  for  an  interpreter,  since 

le  road  between  Los  Angelos  and   Nacimiento  is 

[short  and  much  traveled;    but  the  Intendente  sup- 

)0sed,  not  without  reason,   that   such   a   companion 


108  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

would  prove  useful,  and  be  able  to  give  me  more  in- 
formation than  could  be  otherwise  obtained,  and  ac- 
cordingly gave  him  instructions  to  escort  me  as  far  as 
the  river  Vergara. 

Along  the  roadside  we  passed  many  small  crosses, 
planted  generally  in  groups.  I  had  seen  many  such 
throughout  the  southern  part  of  Chili,  and  had  always 
supposed  they  were  pious  mementoes  placed  over  the 
graves  of  those  slain  in  the  late  civil  war,  or,  perhaps, 
intended  to  mark  the  spot  where  they  had  fallen ;  but 
on  questioning  my  guide,  he  informed  me  that  the 
places  so  designated,  were  "paraderos  de  los  de- 
iunctos"  (halting-places  of  the  dead). 

In  rural  districts,  where  population  is  sparse,  the 
parishes  are  large ;  the  churches  are  distant  from  each 
other,  and  as  the  burial-places  are  always  near  the 
parish  church,  it  often  becomes  necessary  to  carry 
the  dead  a  journey  of  one  or  two  days ;  for  no  one 
would  ever  think  of  being  buried  in  other  than  conse- 
crated ground.  On  such  journeys,  wherever  the  pall- 
bearers stop  to  rest,  they  deposit  the  corpse  by  the 
roadside,  plant  a  rude  cross  of  twigs,  and  repeat  a 
few  prayers  for  the  rest  of  the  departed. 

In  particular  spots  where,  more  than  at  others,  it 
is  convenient  or  necessary  to  rest,  the  crosses  accu- 
mulate, and  such  places  become  known  by  the  start- 
ling appellation  of  "  halting-places  of  the  dead  I" 

We  noticed  that  these  crosses  were  more  numerous 
near  the  river  banks  than  elsewhere ;  but  whether  the 
choice  of  such  locations  was  in  any  way  connected 
with  the  old-fashioned  belief  in  regard  to  the  devil 
and  running  water,  did  not  appear. 


SAN     GAEL  OS     DE     P  U  R  E  N.  109 

Albout  two  hours  after  leaving  Los  Angelos  we 
came  to  the  Duqueco,  a  small  river  that  was  easily 
forded,  though  rapid,  and  in  some  places  deep.  An 
hour  and  a  half  later,  we  reached  the  little  village  of 
San  Carlos — a  collection  of  miserable  houses  upon  the 
hanks  of  the  Bio-Bio. 

The  fact  that  there  is  here  a  military  post,  and  that 
barges  are  stationed  for  the  transportation  of  passen- 
gers and  merchandise,  gives  the  village  its  only  im- 
portance. 

The  Bio-Bio  is,  at  this  place,  narrow,  but  extremely 
rapid ;  the  barges  were  whirled  about  like  straws  in 
the  current,  and  reached  the  opposite  shore  far  below 
the  point  from  which  they  had  started,  Requiring  to 
be  towed  up  stream  each  time  before  recrossing.  But 
the  rapidity  of  the  current  was  best  understood  by 
watching  the  timber  rafts  that  came  shooting  past 
like  arrows,  darting  down  the  stream,  and  quickly 
disappearing  at  the  bend  of  the  river  below.  Each 
feone  of  these  was  formed  of  half  a  dozen  logs,  and 
lanned  by  two  or  three  men,  who  ran  about  perfectly 
iked,  with  the  exception  of  a  handkerchief  at  the 
loins;  now  pushing  with  long  poles  to  avoid  the 
■rocks ;  now  jumping  to  one  side,  now  to  the  other, 
as  the  rafts  were  whirled  resistlessly  along. 

On  crossing  I  was  much  surprised  to  find  that  no 
toll  was  taken  from  us ;  for  our  passports — without 
^  which  no  one  is  allowed  to  enter  the  Indian  territory 

-certified  that  I  was  in  the  service  of  the  Chilian 
government.  This  was  new  to  me,  but  as  there  was 
10  object  in  gainsaying  it,  I  held  my  peace. 

The  southern  shore  of  the  river  is  a  low,  sandy 


110  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

plain,  while  San  Carlos,  on  the  northern  side,  is  situ^ 
ated  on  a  high  bank  overhanging  the  river,  and  com- 
manding the  opposite  shore. 

The  military  post  could  hardly  be  called  a  fort; 
but  it  is  a  strong  position,  and  being  surrounded  on 
three  sides  by  a  deep  ditch,  and  on  the  fourth  bound- 
ed by  the  perpendicular  bank,  some  eighty  feet  high, 
it  is  impregnable  by  the  Indians,  against  whom  alone 
it  is  intended  to  serve.  There  was  one  fine  rakish  gun 
— suggestive  of  long  shots — pointing  to  the  south ; 
but  from  the  condition  of  the  carriage,  I  doubt 
whether  it  would  have  been  more  dangerous  to  friend 
or  foe.        ' 

The  origfhal  San  Carlos  de  Puren  was  built  on  the 
southern  shore  of  the  river ;  but  it  was  destroyed  by 
the  Indians,  and  no  traces  of  it  now  exist. 

The  patron  saint  of  this  place,  "  Our  Lady  of  Pu- 
ren," is  renowned  in  the  neighborhood  for  her  miracles, 
which  are  as  numerous,  wonderful,  and  well  attested 
as  those  of  nearly  any  other  saint  of  greater  reputa- 
tion. Her  fame  rests  principally  upon  her  miraculous 
restoration  to  the  faithful  after  a  long  captivity  among 
the  Indians,  who  had  destroyed  the  town  and  pillaged 
her  church  aiid  shrine:  why  she  should  ever  have 
allowed  the  sacrilegious  barbarians  to  commit  such  un- 
heard-of outrages  is  not  stated ;  it  appears  the  greater 
miracle  of  the  two. 

Some  six  or  eight  miles  beyond  the  Bio-Bio  we 
came  to  Badeo,  a  collection  of  some  half  a  dozen 
hovels  occupied  by  Chilenos,  who,  like  Sanchez,  hired 
and  cultivated  lands  in  the  neighborhood  belonging  to 
the  Indians.     My  guide  owned  a  house  and  generally 


A     PLEASANT     BED-FELLOW.  Ill 

resided  at  San  Carlos;  but,  at  the  time,  the  whole, 
family  had  come  down  to  assist  in  harvesting  the 
wheat. 

It  was  late  when  we  arrived,  and  after  a  hearty 
supper  all  retired.  As  the  house  was  filled  to  over^ 
flowing  with  grown-up  people  and  children  of  both 
sexes — to  say  nothing  of  the  dogs — ^I  preferred  sleeps 
iiig  in  the  open  air,  and  had  my  bed  made  up  undei 
the  "ramada"  (shed  of  brush  and  cane)  just  back  of 
the  house. 

Opening  my  bed  to  retire,  I  perceived  something 
moving  between  the  sheets,  and  stooping  down  I  saw, 
by  the  light  of  the  moon,  an  enormous  spider  very 
deliberately  crawling  out,  and  occasionally  rearing  up 
on  his  hind  legs,  as  if  disposed  to  show  fight.  His 
body  looked  as  big  as  a  dollar,  with  legs  in  propor- 
tion, and  he  was  covered  with  long,  coarse  hair. 
Surely  traveling  makes  strange  bed-fellows ! 

Having  got  rid  of  this  gentleman,  and  examined 
very  carefully  lest  another  should  be  snugly  ensconced 
■among  my  linen,  I  lay  down ;  but  it  was  some  time 
before  I  could  rid  my  thoughts  of  the  disgusting  ob- 
ject I  had  seen.  More  than  once  I  started  from  a  nap 
begun,  with  a  shudder  at  the  thought  of  something 
crawling  over  me;  I  felt  uneasy  even  at  the  biting 
of  the  fleas,  to  which  I  had  become  so  accustomed  by 
long  residence  in  Chili  as  to  consider  their  company 
no  drawback  to  a  pleasant  night's  rest.  But  tired 
iSTature  conquered  at  last,  and  all  thoughts  of  spiders 
were  drowned  in  refireshing  slumber.  Well  did  San- 
cho  say,  "Blessed  be  the  man  that  invented  sleep!" 
ft      These  huge  spiders  are  found  in  all  parts  of  Chili, 


112  THE     AEAUCANIANS. 

and  are  common  in  the  fields  during  hot  weather, 
when  they  sally  forth  from  their  holes  in  the  ground. 

Though  so  revolting  in  appearance  they  are  consid- 
ered perfectly  harmless,  while  a  small,  round,  black 
spider,  also  found  in  the  fields,  though  not  formidable 
in  appearance,  is  said  by  the  natives  to  be  extremely 
venomous — often  biting  the  reaper  while  at  work,  and 
sometimes  causing  death. 

On  the  following  day  I  resumed  my  journey  toward 
Nacimiento. 

With  Sanchez  I  had  much  conversation,  and  found 
him  more  intelligent  than  the  most  of  his  class.  He 
readily  comprehended  my  wishes,  entering  warmly 
into  my  plans,  though  in  many  essential  particulars 
he  differed  firom  me  entirely.  A  trip  to  Valdivia  he 
did  not  think  calculated  for  the  accomplishment  of 
my  designs;  those  with  whom  I  proposed  to  travel 
Usually  pass  over  the  route  as  quickly  as  possible, 
having  little  communication  with  the  Indians ;  and 
the  road  being  much  traveled,  the  Indians  themselves 
have  laid  aside,  in  great  measure,  their  national  pe- 
culiarities, assimilating  gradually  in  dress,  manners, 
and  customs  to  the  descendants  of  the  Spaniards. 

The  better  plan,  he  thought,  would  be  for  me  to 
join  a  trading  expedition,  and  penetrate  into  the  un- 
frequented parts  of  the  interior  with  the  ostensible 
object  of  trade — ^the  only  one  which  the  Indians  com- 
prehend, and  view  without  suspicion. 

Finally  he  proposed,  in  case  I  could  find  nothing  to 
suit  my  purpose  better,  to  get  up  a  trading  expedition 
himself,  with  his  own  available  means  and  the  money 
he  could  borrow  from  friends,  taking  me  along  as  the 


NACIMIENTO.  113 

Si]pipsiven.t  patron,  or  head  of  the  party,  provided  that 
I  could  procure  for  him  the  necessary  permission  from 
the  Governor.  Thus  he  could  at  once  furnish  me 
entertainment  and  information,  and  make,  perhaps,  a 
profitable  speculation  for  himself. 

This  proposition  struck  me  favorably,  and  I  prom- 
ised to  consider  it,  but  did  not  wish  to  make  any 
definite  arrangements  until  I  had  visited  Nacimiento, 
and  see  what  might  there  be  done. 

On  the  road  we  passed  over  the  site  of  the  town 
of  Colhue,  destroyed  by  the  Indians  and  never  re- 
built. The  line  of  streets  and  the  foundations  of  the 
houses,  though  overgrown  with  grass  and  weeds,  could 
be  plainly  traced. 

These  were  the  first  proud  monuments  I  had  seen 
of  the  prowess  of  the  Araucanians.  The  rude  hut  of 
the  Indian  stood  near,  while  his  cattle  grazed  peace- 
fully among  the  ruined  habitations  of  his  once  lordly 
oppressors. 

By  three  o'clock  we  came  in  sight  of  the  hill  of 
Negrete  ;  so  named  in  honor  of  Egidius  Negrete,  who 
here  defeated  the  Araucanians  in  a  most  sanguinary 
battle,  thereby  saving  the  town  of  Nacimiento,  which 
was  threatened  with  destruction.  In  this  neighbor- 
hood live  many  scattered  Chilenos. 

The  plain  is  here  a  waste  of  fine  volcanic  sand, 
such  as  we  had  before  met  near  the  "Rio  Claro  ;" 
and  as  the  sun  was  broiling  hot,  while  the  air  was 
fiUed  with  clouds  of  impalpable  dust,  our  ride  for  the 
next  two  hours  was  exceedingly  disagreeable. 

Just  beyond  the  hill  of  Negrete  runs  the  river  Yer- 
gara,  upon  the  western  bank  of  which,  on  a  high,  com- 


114  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

manding  position,  stands  the  town  of  Nacimiento. 
The  most  prominent  object  is  the  large  fort  overhang- 
ing the  bank  of  the  stream.  The  place,  as  seen  from 
a  distance,  presents  a  striking  appearance. 

The  river  here  is  crossed  in  barges,  and,  as  before, 
my  supposed  official  capacity  secured  me  a  free  pas-> 
sage. 

The  town  afforded  no  accommodations  for  strangers ; 
but  no  sooner  had  I  presented  the  letters  given  me  by 
the  Governor  at  Concepcion,  than  I  was  kindly  re- 
ceived and  comfortably  lodged  by  the  military  com-, 
mandant,  Don  Bartolome  Sepulveda. 

It  was  found,  on  inquiry,  that  a  party  of  traders 
had  started  only  a  few  days  before  for  Yaldivia ;  but 
there  were  no  others  bound  in  that  direction,  and  I 
should  be  obliged  either  to  start  out  by  myself,  at 
considerable  expense  for  servants  and  guides,  or  wait, 
it  was  impossible  to  tell  how  long,  for  company. 

The  commandant  highly  approved  the  plan  pro- 
posed by  Sanchez,  and  advised  me  by  all  means  to 
adopt  it :  of  Sanchez  himself  he  spoke  in  the  highest 
terms,  assuring  me  that  of  aU  the  government  inter- 
preters he  was  the  best-informed,  and  the  most  trust- 
worthy. It  was  therefore  settled  that  an  application 
should  be  sent  as  soon  as  possible  to  the  Governor  at 
Concepcion,  who  alone  could  grant  to  the  interpreter 
the  necessary  leave  of  absence. 

A  barge  that  was  going  down  the  river  to  Concept 
cion  offered  the  speediest  means  of  communication, 
and  by  it  a  letter  was  sent. 

More  than  a  week  elapsed  before  an  answer  arrived, 
but  though  impatient  of  delay,  through  the  kindness 


LIFE     AT     NACIMIENTO.  115 

of  my  entertainers  I  was  enabled  to  spend  the  time 
agreeably. 

The  days  were  passed  in  reading,  strolling  about 
the  town,  and  bathing  in  the  Yergara.  This  pure, 
limpid  stream,  flowing  calmly  along,  forms  a  striking 
contrast  with  the  head  waters  of  the  Bio-Bio,  into 
which  it  flows  a  short  distance  below  the  town.  Un- 
like most  of  the  rivers  in  Chili,  it  flows  from  south  to 
north  instead  of  from  east  to  west,  and  not  being  a 
mountain  stream,  the  current  is  not  rapid,  nor  is  the 
bottom  strewn  with  rolling  stones.  This  stream, 
with  its  grassy  banks  and  untroubled  waters,  offered 
the  only  opportunity  I  had  yet  seen  in  the  country 
for  the  enjoyment  of  a  good  fresh-water  bath.  At  all 
hours  of  the  day  numbers  were  to  be  seen  refreshing 
themselves  in  the  cool  waters ;  the  men  in  a  state  of 
entire  nudity,  the  women  without  much  superfluous 
clothing,  and  the  proximity  into  which  the  two  sexes 
were  thrown  was  something  rather  unusual. 

The  town  of  Nacimiento  is  about  as  large  as  Los 
Angelos,  and  quite  as  well  built ;  it  boasts  two  quite 
creditable  churches,  with  high  wooden  steeples.  One 
of  the  churches,  however,  having  fallen  into  disuse, 
and  consequent  decay,  had  been  turned  into  a  store- 
house for  the  garrison.  But  the  fort  is  the  great  lion 
of  the  town.  Built  under  the  old  Spanish  govern- 
hient  it  is,  like  all  the  public  works  undertaken  at 
that  time,  solid  and  well-constructed,  without  regard 
to  expense ;  it,  too,  has  been  allowed  to  go  to  decay. 

The  garrison  is  small,  consisting  of  only  one  bat- 
talion, and  that  far  from  full ;  but  it  is  kept  in  con- 
stant practice,  and  I  noticed,  even  when  not  on  duty, 


116  THE     AEAUCANIANS. 

the  men  amused  themselves  in  sham-battles  and 
games  calculated  to  perfect  their  military  skill.  It 
is  to  these  frontier  posts  that  Chili  owes  most  of  her 
good  soldiers;  they  are  the  schools  to  which  newly- 
levied  troops  are  always  sent.  The  liability  to  be 
called  into  action  at  any  moment  to  quell  disturb- 
ances among  the  Indians,  renders  constant  vigilance 
necessary,  and  fosters  a  better  discipline  than  is  else- 
where found. 

The  evenings  were  usually  spent  in  visiting,  and  I 
was  quite  favorably  impressed  by  the  refinement  of 
this  last  outpost  of  civilization.  Wherever  we  went, 
a  guitar  was  never  wanting,  nor  some  person  to  play 
it,  and  with  dancing  and  music  a  few  hours  could 
always  be  pleasantly  passed. 

In  these  little  out-of-the-way  places  society  has  one 
charm  for  the  stranger  which  the  larger  towns  are  less 
apt  to  present :  it  is  that  of  originality,  or,  rather,  na- 
tionality. 

In  the  capital,  and  in  the  sea-port  towns,  where 
there  is  an  influx  of  foreigners,  the  higher  circles  of 
society  have  taken  a  foreign  tone,  and  adopted  a  Eu- 
ropean model.  In  Valparaiso  the  standard  is  rather 
English — in  Santiago  it  is  decidedly  French. 

This  spirit  of  imitation  is  natural  and  praiseworthy, 
but  it  produces  a  cloying  sameness ;  it  is  a  leveler, 
destructive  alike  of  national  and  personal  individual- 
ity, and  the  traveler,  tired  of  seeing  continually  repro- 
duced the  manners,  customs,  dress,  and  even  ideas 
with  which  he  has  always  been  familiar,  will  tarry 
with  pleasure  in  those  spots  presenting  the  freshness 
of  originality.      Such  spots  only  exist  where  a  con- 


p 


THE     OLD     LADY.  117 

tinual  jostling  with  the  exterior  world  has  not  abrad- 
ed the  salient  angles  of  the  national  character. 

Commerce,  the  great  civilizer,  is  also  a  great  equal- 
izer— a  destroyer  of  all  that  is  romantic  or  picturesque, 
and  he  who  would  study  the  inner  life  of  a  people, 
must  seek  his  pleasure  and  information  far  away  from 
the  busy  marts  of  trade. 

During  my  stay  here  I  made  the  acquaintance  of  an 
old  lady  who  afforded  me  no  little  amusement;  like 
many  others,  she  had  an  overweening  opinion  of  the 
greatness  of  her  own  country,  and  but  very  indefinite 
ideas  of  any  other.  That  her  geography  should  be  at 
fault  was  nothing  surprising,  for  the  same  might  hap- 
pen to  nearly  all  of  the  old  school,  and  many  even  of 
the  new ;  but  her  opinion  of  foreigners  in  general, 
though  probably  not  confined  to  herself,  was  enter- 
taining, and  such  as  strangers  do  not  generally  hear. 

She  had  many  questions  to  ask,  and  was  sur- 
prised to  learn  that  the  Franceses  (for  under  that 
comprehensive  title  she  embraced  all  not  Chilenos 
or  Spaniards)  were  more  or  less  like  her  own 
countrymen.  She  had  met  many  foreigners,  and 
could  not  but  admit  their  general  integrity  and  in- 
dustry. "But,"  she  would  always  add,  "it  is  a 
great  pity  that  they  are  not  Christians !" 

In  vain  I  endeavored  to  expostulate,  explaining 
that  though  differing  on  some  points  of  religion  from 
herself,  they  were  still  Christians. 

"  How  can  that  be,  Sir ;  are  they  not  Moors  ?" 

"No;  they  are  Protestants." 

*<Well,  they  are  heretics,  which  is  all  the  samel" 
and  from  that  position  she  could  not  be  driven. 


118  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

During  these  conversations  the  old  lady  sat,  Turk- 
ish fashion,  upon  a  rug  spread  on  the  floor,  smoking 
her  cigarito  and  sucking  unnumbered  "  mates." 

A  copper-colored  little  rascal,  to  whom  she  applied 
the  affectionate  epithets  of  "  indio"  and  "chino,"  serv- 
ing as  her  Ganymede,  sat  near  at  hand,  ready  to 
"bring  the  kettle  from  the  coals  when  needed.  For 
his  especial  benefit  she  kept  a  species  of  cat-o'-nine- 
tails, and  whenever  he  nodded,  which  he  was  apt  tg 
do  as  the  conversation  became  prosy,  the  lash  would 
descend  upon  his  shoulders,  accompanied  by  an  out- 
cry such  as  you  would  make  to  a  dog  caught*in  the 
act  of  stealing  meat.  He  would  start  up,  look  round, 
rub  his  belabored  back,  and  in  another  moment  nod, 
much  to  the  exasperation  of  his  mistress. 

Knowing  that  foreigners,  generally,  do  not  take 
"mate,"  she  did  not  ofier  it  at  first,  but  at  length 
she  began  persuading  me  to  try  one,  at  the  same 
time  enjoining  great  care  not  to  burn  my  mouth. 

Wishing  to  surprise  her,  I  took  the  mat^  as  though 
unused  to  it,  and  having  finished  the  contents,  hand- 
ed it  back.  Encouraged  by  this,  she  pressed  me  to 
take  another,  which  I  did;  a  third  followed,  and  a 
fourth,  and  so  on,  until  I  had  taken  eight  or  nine, 
when  handing  back  the  calabash  to  be  again  replen- 
ished, the  old  lady  looked  at  me  in  blank  astonish- 
ment, and  snatching  the  "mate"  from  my  hand,  she 
tossed  it  into  the  corner,  followed  by  the  sugar-box 
and  spoon,  exclaiming, 

"Caramba!  you  drink  more  mate  than  I  my- 
self I" 

I  protested  that  I  had  merely  done  so  to  oblige  her, 


A     SCORPION.  119 

but  in  my  subsequent  visits  she  never  allowed  me  to 
exceed  the  third  "mate." 

One  night,  during  my  stay  at  Nacimiento,  as  I  was 
about  to  retire,  my  attention  was  called  to  something- 
black  moving  upon  the  wall.  On  inspection,  my  visitor 
proved  to  be  nothing  more  nor  less  than  an  ugly  scor- 
pion. A  smart  rap  with  the  heel  of  a  boot  effectually 
stopped  his  crawling,  but  it  was  not  without  a  cold 
shudder  that  I  saw  his  hooked  tail  writhing  about  in 
his  death-agony. 

When  I  mentioned  the  circumstance  to  the  family, 
they  laughed  heartily  at  my  alarm,  assuring  me  that 
scorpions,  though  common  about  old  houses,  were 
perfectly  harmless  —  seldom  stinging,  and  causing 
but  trifling  inconvenience.  There  is,  in  fact,  no  ven- 
omous reptile  of  any  kind  known  in  Chili,  except  the 
small  black  spider  before  spoken  of,  which  is  rarely 
met  with. 


I 


CHAPTER  X. 

Return  to  Los  Angelos. — The  Siesta. — Table  Etiquette. — Night  at 
San  Carlos.— Dona  Pablita.— The  Pillow.— Hair  Shirts.— Intro- 
ductory remark  to  a  History  of  the  Araucanians. 

When  the  Governor's  reply  at  last  arrived,  it  be- 
came necessary  for  me  to  return  to  Los  Angelos,  to 
which  station  Sanchez  vras  attached. 

The  route  by  which  we  returned  was  different  from 
that  by  which  we  had  come,  and  much  shorter.  Fol- 
lowing the  banks  of  the  Vergara  for  a  short  distance, 
we  came  to  its  junction  with  the  Bio-Bio,  where  we 
crossed  in  barges  ;  our  road  then  struck  off  across  the 
plain,  and  after  a  ride*  of  some  four  hours  we  reached 
Los  Angelos. 

As  the  Intendente  had  left  town,  I  went  with  the 
Governor's  letter  to  the  house  of  the  military  Com- 
mandante,  who  kindly  invited  me  to  lodge  at  his 
quarters,  and  sent  orders  for  Sanchez  to  be  in  readi- 
ness to  accompany  me  within  twenty-four  hours. 

As  it  was  desirable  to  reduce  every  thing  to  as 
small  a  compass  as  possible,  I  left  behind  my  mattress 
and  almofrez,  carrying  for  bedding  only  a  couple  of 
blankets  and  some  sheets,  in  accordance  with  the  ad- 
vice of  the  guide,  who  assured  me  that  sheep-skins  in 
abundance  would  never  be  wanting  with  which  to 
make  a  comfortable  bed.     He  laughed  at  the  idea  of 


THE     SIESTA.  121 

carrying  any  cooking  apparatus,  declaring  tliat  the 
squaws  would  feed  me  better  than  I  ever  had  Tbeen 
fed  in  any  other  part  of  Chili.  He  even  counseled  me 
to  leave  my  pistol,  which  he  considered  a  useless  en- 
cumbrance ;  but  on  that  point  I  demurred,  preferring 
to  carry  it  along  as  a  pleasant  traveHng  companion. 

The  poncho  which  I  usually  wore  was  heavy,  and  I 
determined  to  buy  another  more  convenient  for  warm 
weather.  With  some  difficulty  I  found  one  to  my 
taste ;  but  as  it  required  binding  to  prevent  the  edges 
from  raveling  out,  I  left  it  with  the  shopkeeper's 
wife  (the  real  business  man  as  it  seemed),  who  told 
me  to  call  for  it  at  a  certain  hour.  The  time  arrived, 
but  the  poncho  had  not  been  finished,  and  another 
hour  was  named. 

Punctual  to  the  appointment,  I  again  called.  The 
shop-keeper  sat  dozing  behind  his  little  counter. 
When  I  asked  for  my  purchase  he  started  up,  rubbed 
his  eyes,  and  pointing  mysteriously  to  a  carefully 
closed  door  behind  him,  ejaculated,  ^^  JSsta  dormiendo^ 
Sehorr  ("  She  is  asleep.  Sir!") 

"But  I  want  my  poncho,"  said  I,  supposing  he 
misunderstood  me. 

"My  wife  is  asleep.  Sir !"  he  again  answered,  point- 
ing to  the  door,  as  though  it  closed  upon  a  sanctum  he 
dared  not  enter. 

"Very  well,  then,  give  it  to  me  yourself!" 

He  only  shook  his  head — he  could  not  interfere  in 
his  wife's  affairs. 

"Then  why  don't  you  wake  her  up?"  1  cried  im- 
patiently. 

'-^  Interomjper  la  en  la  siesta,  Sehor  T  ("Impossi- 
F 


122  THE     AEAUCANIANS. 

ble — disturb  her  in  her  siesta!")  he  answered,  his 
eyes  dilating  in  amazement,  "Impossible,  Sir!" 

I  urged  the  appointment  of  the  hour,  my  hurry, 
etc.,  but  to  no  purpose.  I  must  wait  "w?!  ratitd''' 
(which  might  mean  ^yq  minutes  or  an  hour),  until  the 
lady  finished  her  nap — for  she  could  not  be  disturbed. 

After  another  half  hour  I  found  the  lady  awake 
and  much  refi*eshed  by  her  nap.  She  made  no  apol- 
ogies for  having  kept  me  waiting,  for  she  did  not  con- 
sider time  .of  any  value. 

Disturb  an  alderman,  if  you  will,  at  dinner,  a  phi- 
losopher in  a  brown  study,  a  preacher  during  the  writ- 
ing of  a  sermon,  but  respect  the  sacredness  of  the 
Spaniard's  siesta! 

In  Valparaiso  the  impulse  of  commerce  and  the  ex- 
ample of  foreigners  have  almost  entirely  abolished  the 
time-honored  siesta ;  in  Santiago,  among  the  more  act- 
ive classes  of  the  community  it  has  gone  into  disuse, 
though  ladies  and  people  of  leisure  still  cling  to  their 
noonday  or  after-dinner  nap  ;  but  in  the  country  and 
interior  towns  it  is  universal,  and  it  is  affirmed  that 
many  of  the  old  school  undress  and  turn  into  bed  for 
the  siesta  with  as  much  formality  as  if  retiring  for  the 
night. 

Leaving  all  my  extras  with  the  Commandante,  who 
promised  to  take  charge  of  them  until  my  return,  we 
started,  and  about  sunset  reached  San  Carlos.  As  we 
hoped  at  this  place  to  procure  a  servant  for  the  jour- 
ney, we  determined  to  remain  over  night  at  the  house 
of  one  of  Sanchez's  numerous  "compadres."* 

*  "  Compadre  and  "  comadre" — sponsors,  male  and  female,  for  a 
child  at  its  baptism ;  also  bride's-maids  and  groom's-men  in  mapiages. 


f 


TABLE     ETIQUETTE.  123 

The  house  at  which  we  stopped  was,  like  most  of 
the  others  in  the  village,  without  paint,  whitewash, 
flooring,  or  much  pretensions  to  fiimiture,  but  our  re- 
ception was  cordial. 

My  projects  seemed  to  surprise  the  good  people, 
who  could  not  understand  why  a  caballero  should 
wish  to  expose  himself  to  hardships  and  even  perils ; 
but  they  satisfied  themselves  with  the  pithy  remark — 
''''Pero  ve  V^,  que  los  forasteros  no  son  coma  nosotros  P'' 
("  Surely  these  foreigners  are  very  different  from 
us!") 

While  this  interesting  conversation  was  going  on,  I 
overheard  a  female  voice  whispering,  ^'Que  lastima  /" 
("  What  a  pity !") — and  turning  in  the  direction  from 
wiiich  the  noise  proceeded,  I  saw  a  tall,  handsome 
girl  looking  at  me  with  an  expression  such  as  any 
woman  might  wear  if  gazing  at  an  innocent  lamb  led 
.  to  the  altar.  What  the  pity  was,  I  did  not  ask ;  but 
it  evidently  related  in  some  way  to  myself;  for  the 
moment  our  eyes  met,  her  long  silken  lashes  fell  upon 
her  cheek,  and  with  a  blush  she  turned  away. 

Supper  came,  served  by  our  fair  friend  of  the  silken 
lashes.  The  seat  of  honor  was  assigned  to  me,  and 
the  others  were  monopolized  by  the  men.  This  ar- 
rangement was  not  to  my  taste,  and  I  protested 
against  such  an  exclusion  of  the  ladies — especially 
the  one  who  had  taken  the  trouble  to  serve  up  the 
meal. 

iThe  young  lady  seated  herself  at  the  table  with  ap- 
Throughout  all  Spanish  countries  these  words  are  much  used  as  terms 
of  endearment ;  and  one  of  the  most  ordinary  salutations  of  the  lower 
classes  on  meeting  is,  "Como  le  va  compai're?" — "Ay  vamo'  co- 
inai're !" 
i 


124  THE     AEAUCANIANS. 

parent  reluctance ;  but  all  my  eflforts  at  conversation 
were  unavailing.  An  opportunity  however  soon  oc- 
cuiTed  of  breaking  the  ice;  for  raking  up  from  the 
depths  of  the  casuela  a  chicken  liver,  she  harpooned 
it  with  her  fork  and  passed  it  over,  fork  and  all,  for 
my  acceptance,  adding,  of  course,  the  usual  '■''Dispensa 
V^»  la  man(?"("  Excuse  the  hand  from  which  it  comes.") 
Tliis  delicate  attention  was  immediately  reciprocated 
by  a  gizzard  from  my  own  plate ! 

After  the  interchange  of  such  civilities,  reserve 
quickly  disappeared,  and  we  were  soon  as  intimate  as 
old  friends.  This  custom,  like  that  of  passing  the  same 
glass  from  lip  to  lip,  is  probably  of  Oriental  origin, 
descending  to  the  Chilenos,  through  the  Spaniards, 
from  the  Moors.  Like  all  the  purely  national  cus- 
toms it  is  fast  going  out  of  use,  except  in  the  country 
or  among  the  lower  classes ;  in  the  higher  circles  of 
the  cities  it  is  unheard  of.  True,  on  one  occasion,  I 
received  such  an  attention  from  a  lady  at  a  party  in 
the  capital ;  but  as  it  came  in  the  questionable  shape 
of  a  head  of  garlic  from  the  turkey  dressing,  I  never 
could  fairly  make  up  my  mind  whether  it  was  in- 
tended as  a  mark  of  special  favor  or  as  a  practical 
joke. 

Such  manners  may  not  indicate  the  highest  re- 
finement, but  they  evince  a  cordiality  of  feeling,  and 
have  an  appearance  of  good-will,  for  the  absence  of 
which  no  amount  of  mere  form  can  compensate. 

The  Sandwich  Islander,  with  his  forefinger,  dabs 
the  luscious  "poc-poe"  into  your  open  mouth;  the 
Arab  tears  off  a  tit-bit  of  meat,  and  passes  it  to  you 
in  his  hand ;  the  Chilena  offers  you  a  dainty  morsel 


DONA     PABLITA.  125 

upon  her  fork ;  the  American  asks  you  to  drink,  and 
stands  treat;  the  Englishman  requests  the  pleasure 
of  a  glass  of  wine  with  you,  and  expects  you  to  help 
yourself  from  your  own  bottle.  The  one  extreme  may 
be  worse  than  the  other,  but  the  truth  lies,  as  usual, 
about  in  the  middle. 

Supper  over,  I  retired  to  one  comer  to  enjoy  a 
smoke ;  no  sooner  had  I  taken  out  my  cigarito,  than 
my  fair  friend  rose,  and  taking  it  from  my  hand,  lit 
it  at  the  candle,  taking  a  few  puffs,  by  the  way,  so 
that  it  should  not  go  out.  I  offered  her  one,  but  she 
would  not  accept  it — "she  never  could  smoke" — at 
the  same  time  making  a  wry  face  to  convince  me; 
but  there  was  something  scientific  in  the  wreathing  of 
the  smoke,  as  it  curled  from  her  lips,  that  made  me 
doubt  her  words.  Of  course  she  was  merely  show- 
ing me  an  ordinary  civility,  not  dreaming  that  it 
would  lead  to  conversation;  but,  before  our  chat 
was  ended,  the  candle  had  burnt  low  in  its  socket, 
and  I  was  convinced  that,  despite  her  artless  looks, 
this  village  beauty  was  a  sad  coquette. 

My  bed  was  brought  in  and  made  up  on  a  raised 
platform,  some  six  inches  high,  running  along  one 
side  of  the  room  and  serving  as  a  species  of  divan. 

Trusting  to  my  saddle,  I  had  thought  it  unneces- 
sary to  carry  any  piUow;  the  quick  eye  of  Dona 
Pablita  (for  such  was  her  name),  immediately  detected 
the  want,  and  running  off  she  brought  her  own  for 
imj  use,  nor  would  she  admit  a  refasal.  It  was  very 
soft,  immaculately  clean,  and  withal  a  pretty  pillow — 
for  pillows  in  Chili  always  are  pretty — it  was  not  of 
silk,  nor  of  satin,  covered  with  costly  lace ;  but  the 


126  THE     ARAU(JANIANS. 

pink  muslin  shone  with  a  warm  glow  through  the 
fine  linen,  and  the  delicate  edgings,  I  knew,  were 
worked  by  the  fair  hands  of  the  owner.  Under  such 
auspices  I  retired,  and  laid  my  cheek  upon  the  soft 
down  in  anticipation  of  pleasant  dreams. 

Have  you  never  lain  awake  through  the  long  hours 
of  the  night,  your  mind  reveling  in  delicious  fancies, 
your  eyes  unwilling  to  close  upon  the  pleasing  sights 
that  seemed  to  dance  before  them  ?  I  often  have ;  and 
I  now  lay  for  many  a  half  hour  unable  to  sleep ;  but 
alas  for  sentiment,  I  was  kept  awake,  not  so  much 
by  thoughts  of  the  gentle  Pablita,  as  by  the  swarms 
of  fleas  that  poured  in  upon  me  from  all  directions. 

When  we  started  on  the  morrow  our  hosts  bade  us 
a  kindly  farewell,  and  promised  to  pray  for  our  safe 
return ;  especially  Dona  Pablita,  who  promised  to  in- 
tercede with  St.  Joseph  for  our  especial  protection  :  in 
return  for  which  good  offices,  I  engaged  to  bring  her  a 
present  of  a  "  ternerito  negro"  (a  little  black  steer). 

This  young  lady  had  a  great  deal  of  a  certain  kind 
of  piety,  the  common  property  of  her  countrywomen, 
and  it  was  painful  to  see  that  she  wore  a  "  hair  shirt." 
On  twitting  her  upon  the  enormity  of  the  crime  which 
must  have  dictated  so  great  a  penance,  she  told  me 
that  her  father  having  joined  the  army  during  the  late 
civil  war,  she  had  made  a  vow  to  Our  Lady  of  Some- 
thing, to  wear  a  hair  shirt  for  the  term  of  one  year,  in 
case  of  his  safe  return ;  a  vow  she  was  religiously  ful- 
filling. 

Weeds  are  much  worn  in  Chili,  in  compliance  with 
vows,  yet  as  there  are  various  colors,  according  to 
the  saint  invoked,  the  ladies  generally  display  consid- 


f 


ABORIGINES     OF     CHILI.  127 

erable  taste  and  coquetry  in  making  their  penance  as 
becoming  as  possible ;  but  hair  shirts  and  flagellations 
are  not  so  much  in  vogue. 

At  the  ferry  I  was  both  surprised  and  gratified  to 
meet  a  young  officer  whom  I  had  known  in  Santiago ; 
he  was  in  command  of  the  garrison,  and  seeing  my 
name  in  the  passport,  had  come  down  to  see  me  and 
have  a  chat  about  old  times.  He  seemed  rejoiced  to 
meet  some  one  who  could  give  him  news  from  many 
of  the  firiends  he  had  left  behind.  He  counted  the 
weary  months  he  had  passed  since  leaving  his  native 
Santiago,  and  yearned  to  return ;  for  the  love  of  home 
is  strong  in  the  breast  of  every  Chileno,  and  in  none 
more  so  than  in  that  of  the  Santiaguino. 

Once  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  river  I  considered 
myself  fairly  started,  and  gladly  bade  a  short  farewell 
to  civilization. 

We  stopped  as  before  at  Budeo,  where  the  family 
of  my  guide  was  still  staying. 

In  order  that  the  reader  may  understand  the  pecul- 
iar interest  attaching  to  the  tribe  of  Indians  whose 
territory  we  were  about  to  enter,  he  should  be  some- 
what acquainted  with  their  history,  and  it  will  be  well 
to  drop  our  narrative  for  the  present,  and  devote  a 
few  chapters  to  those  events  which  have  given  lustre 
to  the  Araucanian  name. 

The  earliest  authentic  notices  we  possess  of  the  abo- 
rigines of  Ghili,  have  descended  to  us  from  the  Peru- 
vians, who,  though  unacquainted  with  the  art  of  writ- 
ing, carefully  preserved  and  transmitted,  from  genera- 
tion to  generation,  the  traditions  of  their  race.  After 
the  subjugation  of  Peru  by  the  Spaniards,  these  tra- 


128  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

ditions  were  collected  and  rescued  from  oblivion  hj 
Garcilazo  de  la  Vega,  a  converted  Peruvian,  and  a 
lineal  descendant  from  the  Incas. 

The  letters  and  narratives  of  the  Spaniards  them- 
selves frimish  us  with  the  details  of  events  subsequent 
to  the  conquest. 

The  only  history  of  the  Araucanians  with  which  I 
am  acquainted,  is  contained  in  the  Abbe  Molina's 
work*  on  Chili,  from  which  the  following  abstract  of 
their  wars  with  the  Spaniards  has  been  principally 
drawn. 

It  is,  however,  but  fair  to  state  that  a  great  part  of 
Molina's  history  seems  to  have  been  taken  from  the 
"  Araucana"  of  Ercilla,  who,  though  himself  an  eye- 
witness to  many  of  the  scenes  depicted  in  his  poem, 
so  mixes  up  fact  and  fancy  that  it  is  often  difficult  to 
distinguished  between  the  two.  It  shall  be  my  en- 
deavor to  present  to  the  reader  an  account  of  those 
events  only  of  historic  importance,  which  are  un- 
doubtedly true,  throwing  out  all  the  fine  speeches  and 
marvelous  adventures,  which,  though  chronicled  by  the 
poet,  seem  unworthy  of  record  on  the  page  of  history. 

*  The  "  Saggio  della  Storia  de  Chili"  originally  published  in  Ital- 
ian, 1782,  and  subsequently  translated  into  English  by  R.  Alsop.  The 
learned  Abbe's  history  contains  a  disquisition  on  the  manners  and 
customs  of  the  Araucanians,  which  I  have  found  extremely  useful, 
not  only  as  confirming  my  own  observations,  but  also  as  furnishing 
many  facts  with  which  my  guide  seems  to  have  been  unacquainted. 

The  History  (Natural  and  Political)  of  Chili  compiled  by  M. 
Claudius  Gay,  and  recently  published  in  Paris  by  order  of  the  Chil- 
ian government,  may  contain  much  valuable  additional  information, 
but  I  have  not  had  the  opportunity  of  consulting  it. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

The  Aborigines  of  Chili. — Conquest  of  Northern  ChUi  by  the  In- 
cas. — ^First  Expedition  of  the  Spaniards  under  Almagro. 

The  alborigines  of  Chili,  and  of  a  portion  of  tlie 
present  Argentine  Republic,  were  of  one  race,  spoke 
but  one  language,  and  were  characterized  by  the 
same  manners  and  customs,  slightly  modified  by  the 
influences  of  climate,  soil,  and  geographical  posi- 
tion. 

They  designated  themselves  by  the  comprehensive 
name  of  "Alapu-che,"  or  "Children  of  the  Land." 

According  to  general  geographical  divisions  they 
were  distinguished  as  "Pehuenche,"  or  People  of  the 
East ;  "  Morache,"  People  of  the  West ;  and  "  Huil- 
liche,"  Far-off  People,  living  to  the  South. 

These  general  divisions  were  divided  into  prov- 
inces, as,  for  instance,  that  of  the  Purumancians, 
which  were  in  turn  subdivided  into  particular  dis- 
tricts. 

Without  stopping  here  to  examine  into  their  polity, 
it  will  be  sufficient  to  state,  that  from  the  earliest 
period  of  their  history  of  which  we  have  any  knowl- 
edge, the  people  of  these  provinces  lived  as  separate 
tribes,  under  district  governments. 

Of  these  various  tribes  the  most  important  was 
that  of' the  so-called  "  Araucanians,"  an  appellation 


130  THEARAUCANIANS. 

which,  though  improperly  given  by  the  Spaniards, 
has  become  world-renowned,  and  can  not  now  be 
changed.  To  their  achievements  the  reader's  atten- 
tion will  be  principally  called,  but  it  wiU  also  be 
necessary  to  dwell*  incidentally  upon  the  history  of 
the  other  Chilian  tribes. 

In  the  year  1450  the  Peruvian  Inca,  Yupanqui, 
desirous  of  extending  his  dominions  toward  the  south, 
stationed  himself  with  a  powerful  army  at  Atacama. 
Thence  he  dispatched  a  force  of  ten  thousand  men  to 
Chili,  under  the  command  of  Chinchiruca,  who,  over- 
coming almost  incredible  obstacles,  marched  through 
a  sandy  desert  as  far  as  Copiapo,  a  distance  of  eighty 
leagues. 

The  Copiapins  flew  to  arms,  and  prepared  to  resist 
this  invasion.  But  Chinchiruca,  true  to  the  policy 
which  the  Incas  always  observed,  stood  upon  the  de- 
fensive, trusting  to  persuasion  rather  than  to  force  for 
the  accomplishment  of  his  designs.  He  declared  to 
the  people  that  he  had  come  as  a  friend,  not  as  an 
enemy — ^not  to  destroy,  but  to  promote  their  happi- 
ness, by  giving  them  laws  and  a  religion  superior  to 
their  own.  Yet,  while  he  proffered  peace,  he  warned 
them  of  the  consequences  of  resisting  the  *'  Children 
of  the  Sun." 

Such  representations  were  well  calculated  to  pro- 
duce a  powerful  effect  upon  the  minds  of  a  rude, 
imaginative  race,  and  the  Copiapins  for  a  long  time 
wavered  between  an  unwillingness  to  surrender  their 
cherished  liberties  and  the  fear  of  offending  those 
whom  they  deemed  more  than  mortal. 

While  perplexed  by  these  conflicting  douBts,  the 


I 


I 


CONQUEST     BY     THE     INCAS.  131 

arrival  of  tlie  second  Peruvian  army  induced  them  to 
lay  down  their  arms. 

The  Inca,  pleased  with  so  easy  a  conquest  where 
he  had  anticipated  the  most  obstinate  resistance,  sent 
a  third  army  with  instructions  to  push  onward  to  the 
south.  The  adjoining  province  o£  Coquimbo  was 
easily  subjugated,  and  steadily  advancing,  the  Peru- 
vians, some  six  years  after  their  first  entering  the 
country,  firmly  established  themselves  in  the  valley 
of  Chili,  at  a  distance  of  more  than  two  hundred 
leagues  firom  the  frontier  of  Atacama. 

The  "  Children  of  the  Sun"  had  met  thus  far  with 
little  resistance,  and,  encouraged  by  success,  they 
marched  their  victorious  armies  against  the  Puruman- 
cians,  a  warlike^  people  living  beyond  the  river  E-apel. 
But  these  "free  dancers,"  though  of  the  same  blood, 
and  speaking  the  same  language  as  the  more  northern 
tribes,  were  imbued  with  a  far  different  spirit. 

To  the  summons  of  the  Inca  they  returned  a 
haughty  and  indignant  answer.  Several  days  were 
allowed  to  pass,  and  again  they  were  called  upon  to 
yield ;  but  they  deigned  no  other  reply  than  that  of 
drawing  up  their  forces  in  battle  array  within  sight 
of  the  enemy.  A  third  time  were  they  warned  of  the 
danger  of  resisting. 

"Go  back!"  they  said  to  the  messenger,  "Go 
back  and  tell  your  general  that  we  have  come  not  to 
parley,  but  to  fight!" 

A  desperate  battle  followed,  in  which  the  superior 
discipline  of  the  Peruvians  was  met  by  the  reckless 
bravery  of  the  Purumancians,  who  sought,  by  sudden 
attacks  and  overwhelming  numbers^  to  break  tlirough 


132  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

the  solid  ranks  of  their  adversaries.  For  three  days 
the  conflict  raged  with  little  cessation.  Great  num- 
bers were  killed,  and  as  neither  army  remained  in  a 
condition  to  renew  the  combat,  both  retired.  The 
Peruvians  recrossed  the  river,  and  the  Puruman- 
cians  returned  to  their  homes,  proud  of  their  suc- 
cessful resistance  to  a  power  hitherto  deemed  irresist- 
ible. 

Learning  the  result  of  tliis  battle  the  Inca  Yu- 
panqui  influenced  by  motives  of  humanity,  ordered 
his  generals  to  relinquish  the  idea  of  further  con- 
quests, and  seek  by  the  introduction  of  wise  laws, 
and  by  instructing  the  people  in  agriculture  and  the 
arts,  to  establish  themselves  more  firmly  in  the  terri- 
tory already  acquired. 

To  what  extent  the  Peruvians  were  successfiil  in 
the  endeavor  to  ingraft  their  civilization,  religion, 
and  customs  upon  the  Chilians,  it  is  at  this  distant 
day  impossible  to  determine,  since  the  earliest  his- 
torians differ  widely  on  the  subject.  Certain  it  is, 
that  on  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards  the  Incas,  at  least 
nominally,  ruled  the  country,  and  received  an  annual 
tribute  of  gold  from  the  people. 

In  the  year  1535,  after  the  death  of  the  unfortunate 
Inca  Atahuallpa,  Diego  Almagro,  fired  by  the  love  of 
glory  and  the  thirst  for  gold,  yielded  to  the  solicita- 
tions of  Francisco  Pizarro,  the  conqueror  of  Peru,  and 
set  out  for  the  subjection  of  Chili,  which,  as  yet,  had 
not  been  visited  by  any  European. 

His  army  consisted  of  five  hundred  and  seventy 
Spaniards,  well  equipped,  and  fifteen  thousand  Peru- 
vian auxiliaries. 


EXPEDITION     OP     ALMAGRO.  133 

Eegardless  of  difficulties  and  dangers,  this  impetu- 
ous soldier  selected  the  near  route  that  lay  along  the 
summits  of  the  Andes,  in  preference  to  the  more  cir- 
cuitous road  passing  through  the  desert  of  Atacama. 
Upon  the  horrors  of  this  march,  of  which  so  thrilling 
an  account  is  given  by  Prescott  in  his  "  Conquest  of 
Peru,"  it  is  unnecessary  for  us  to  dwell ;  suffice  it  to 
state,  that  on  reaching  Copiapo  no  less  than  one-fourth 
of  his  Spanish  troops,  and  two-thirds  of  his  Indian 
auxiliaries,  had  perished  from  the  effects  of  cold,  fa- 
tigue, and  starvation. 

One  of  the  Incas  who  accompanied  the  expedition, 
wishing  to  revive  the  drooping  spirits  of  the  Span- 
iards, and  impress  them  with  the  importance  of  their 
conquest,  obliged  the  people  of  Copiapo  to  deliver  up 
all  the  gold  in  their  possession,  amounting  to  about 
me  million  of  dollars. 

This  gold  he  presented  to  Almagro,  who,  thinking 
it  but  the  precursor  of  untold  wealth,  ostentatiously 
distributed  the  whole  sum  among  his  followers. 

Every  where  the  Spaniards  met  with  a  friendly  re- 
ception from  the  natives,  who  regarded  them  as  a 
tBuperior  race  of  beings,  and  the  after  conquest  of  the 
)untry  would  probably  have  been  attended  with  no 
'difficulty  had  a  conciliatory  policy  been  adopted ;  but 
this  naturally  inoffensive  people,  aroused  by  acts  of 
the  most  barbarous  cruelty,  soon  flew  to  arms. 

Despite  the  opposition  of  the  natives,  who  were 

low  rising  in  every  direction  to  oppose  his  march, 

fAlmagro  kept  on,  overcoming  every  obstacle,  until  he 

reached  the  river  Cachapoal,  the  northern  boundary 

of  the  Purumancian  territory.     Here  the  Peruvian 


134  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

allies  wotdd  have  persuaded  him  to  pause,  represent- 
ing to  him  the  desperate  valor  of  that  people;  but 
such  considerations  only  increased  the  ardor  of  a 
man  accustomed  to  conquest,  and  he  determined  to 
advance. 

No  sooner  did  the  Purumancians  find  their  territory 
invaded,  than  they  assembled  in  vast  numbers  to  re- 
pel the  aggressor. 

At  the  first  sight  of  the  brilliant  European  arms 
and  gayly-caparisoned  horses,  they  were  filled  with  a 
terror  that  was  augmented  by  the  loud  report  of  the 
musketry ;  but  soon  regaining  their  wonted  courage, 
they  charged  boldly  upon  the  enemy,  using  their 
clubs  and  lances  with  great  efficiency. 

With  a  degree  of  skill  not  to  have  been  expected 
in  so  rude  a  people,  they  formed  in  regular  battal- 
ions, falling  upon  the  Spanish  lines  with  such  well- 
directed  attacks,  that  even  the  veterans  of  Peru  with 
difficulty  maintained  their  ground. 

When  night  at  length  separated  the  combatants, 
the  Purumancians  withdrew  and  encamped  near  the 
field,  eager  to  renew  the  contest  on  the  morrow. 

Almagro  immediately  caUed  a  council  of  his  prin- 
cipal followers.  They  were  disappointed  and  cha- 
grined; they  had  found  but  little  gold;  and  where 
they  had  anticipated  an  easy  conquest,  they  had  met 
with  a  determined  resistance,  gaining  a  victory  that 
only  in  name  was  not  a  defeat.  Unanimously  they 
proclaimed  in  favor  of  abandoning  the  expedition; 
and  recrossing  the  Cachapoal,  they  commenced  their 
return  to  Peru. 

Almagro,  subsequently  having  failed  in  an  attempt 


PATE     OF     ALMAGRO.  IbtJ 

to  overthrow  the  Pizarros,  was  captured  and  behead- 
ed; his  followers,  driven  to  desperation  by  the  ridi- 
cule which  their  poverty  and  ill-success  every  where 
excited,  became  notorious,  as  the  "  men  of  Chili,"  for 
their  reckless  character. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

Valdivia's  Expedition. — Santiago  built. — ^Reinforcements  demanded. 
— Treaty  with  Purumancians. — Foundation  of  Concepcion. — Op- 
position of  the  Araucanians. — Defeat  and  Death  of  Valdivia. 

PiZAERO,  ever  desirous  of  conquering  Chili,  in 
1540  dispatched  Pedro  Yaldivia  for  that  purpose, 
with  some  two  hundred  Spanish  soldiers,  and  a  large 
body  of  Peruvians. 

This  general  took  the  same  route  that  had  been  fol- 
lowed by  Almagro ;  but,  more  prudent  than  he,  se- 
lected for  the  journey  a  season  of  the  year  when  the 
Cordilleras,  but  little  obstructed  by  snows,  were  easily 
passable.  He  reached  Chili  without  having  sustained 
any  loss,  but  his  reception  was  far  different  from  that 
of  his  predecessors.  The  Copiapins,  who  had  wel- 
comed Almagro  with  presents  of  fruit  and  gold,  re- 
ceived Valdivia  in  hostile  array;  but  the  rude  valor 
of  a  people  who  had  become  enervated  and  unaccus- 
tomed to  war  under  the  mild  sway  of  the  Incas,  could 
oflfer  no  effectual  resistance  to  the  advance  of  the 
Spaniards,  who  pushed  steadily  on  until  they  reached 
the  river  Mapoclio,  and  encamped  upon  the  site  of  the 
present  capital  of  Chili. 

Yaldivia  finding  the  location  pleasant,  and  the  sur- 
rounding plain  fertile,  here  founded  a  city  on  the  24th 
February,  1541.  To  this  first  European  settlement 
in  Chili  he  gave  the  name  of  Santiago,  in  honor  of  the 


EXPEDITION     OF     VALDIVIA.  137 


^K  patron  saint  of  Spain.  He  laid  Out  the  town  in 
^B  Spanish  style;  and  as  a  place  of  refiige  in  case  of 
attack,  erected  a  fort  upon  a  steep  rockj  hill,  rising 
some  two  hundred  feet  above  the  plain, 
r*^  The  Mapochins,  awaking  too  late  to  a  sense  of  the 
danger  that  awaited  them,  should  these  strangers  be- 
come firmly  established  in  their  midst,  took  advant- 
age  of  the  temporary  absence  of  the  Spanish  leader 
with  a  portion  of  his  troops,  to  fall  unexpectedly  upon 
the  infant  settlement.  So  sudden  was  this  onslaught 
that  the  terrified  people  with  difficulty  escaped,  and 
Lsought  refiige  in  the  fort. 

Having  reduced  the  town  to  ashes,  the  MapocKins 
scaled  the  rocky  sides  of  the  hill,  and  attacked  the 
fortress  on  every  side,  leaping  the  moat,  and  climb- 
ing the  very  walls. 

Dreadful  was  the  carnage  made  in  their  ranks  by 
the  artillery;  but,  unterrified,  they  advanced  in  so 
great  numbers,  aiid  with  such  resolution,  that  the  place 
must  soon  have  fallen  had  not  Yaldivia — apprised  of 
the  danger — returned  in  haste.  Cutting  his  way 
through  the  surging  mass  of  naked  savages,  who  in 
vain  hurled  stones  against  his  mail-clad  warriors,  or 
strove  to  drag  them  fi*om  their  saddles,  he  reached  the 
gates  of  the  fortress  in  time  to  rescue  the  besieged 
fi:om  their  perilous  situation. 

The  Indians,  despairing  of  success  after  the  arrival 
of  this  reinforcement,  retired  firom  the  contest. 

But  though  foiled  in  their  first  attempt  to  throw 
off  the  Spanish  yoke,  the  Mapochins  did  not  relin- 
quish the  hope  of  regaining  their  fireedom.  They  be- 
sieged the  city  with  unremitting  vigilance,  cutting  off 


138  THEAEAUCANIANS. 

every  avenue  for  supplies :  again  and  again  they  de- 
stroyed the  ripening  grain  of  their  enemies,  who,  even 
beneath  the  very  guns  of  the  fort,  were  able  to  raise 
barely  enough  for  a  scanty  subsistence.  In  the  hope 
of  reducing  by  famine  a  foe  whom  they  could  not  con- 
quer by  force,  they  even  laid  waste  their  own  fertile 
fields,  and  retiring  to  the  mountains,  desolated  the 
beautiful  plain  that  they  had  proudly  named  "The 
land  of  many  people." 

He  who  examines  the  history  of  this  period  will  be 
at  loss  whether  more  to  admire  the  heroic  bravery  and 
self-sacrificing  patriotism  of  the  Indian,  or  the  chival- 
rous daring  and  patient  endurance  of  the  Spaniard. 

The  admirable  traits  of  Valdivia's  character  were 
displayed  in  a  remarkable  degree.  By  his  own  ex- 
ample he  inspired  all ;  he  encouraged  the  faint-hearted ; 
he  reconciled  the  discontented  by  his  prudence ;  and 
by  firmness  he  held  in  check  the  turbulent :  his  un- 
tiring exertions  alone  prevented  the  colonists  from 
giving  up  an  undertaking  with  which  they  had  be- 
come heartily  disgusted,  and  abandoning  the  country 
forever. 

Convinced  that  without  additional  force  further  con- 
quest would  be  impossible,  he  dispatched  to  Peru  two 
officers,  Monroy  and  Miranda,  with  six  companions, 
and  an  escort  of  thirty  horse,  to  report  to  Pizarro  the 
straitened  condition  of  the  Chilian  expedition,  and  to 
beg  reinforcements. 

They  proceeded  without  difficulty  as  far  as  Copiapo, 
where  they  were  attacked  by  the  chief  of  the  district 
and  completely  routed.  Of  the  whole  party  dnly 
Monroy  and  Miranda  escaped.     They  too  would  have 


TREACHERY  OF  THE  SPANIARDS.  139 

perished,  for  they  were  sentenced  to  death,  and  had 
actually  been  hound  to  the  stake,  when  they  were 
rescued  by  the  interposition  of  their  conqueror's  wife, 
who  begged  that  they  might  be  spared,  unbound  them 
with  her  own  hands,  and  tenderly  dressed  their  wounds. 
This  kindness  was  repaid  by  an  act  of  the  blackest 
ingratitude. 

While  riding  out  one  day  in  company  with  the  son 
of  their  benefactress,  Monroy  fell  suddenly  upon  the 
young  chieftain,  mortally  wounding  him  with  a  pon- 
iard, while  Miranda,  turning  upon  the  officer  in  com- 
mand of  the  guard,  wrenched  from  his  hand  the  lance 
which  he  bore,  and  breaking  through  the  ranks  of  the 
terrified  escort,  they  fled.  Favored  by  fleet  horses, 
they  made  good  their  escape,  and  taking  their  way 
through  the  trackless  desert,  they  succeeded  in  reach- 
ing Peru. 

The  enormity  of  this  treachery  was  augmented  by 
the  fact  that  it  was  unnecessary;  for,  being  never 
closely  watched,  an  escape  would  at  any  time  have 
been  easy  without  having  recourse  to  violence. 

Such  crimes  only  tended  to  embitter  the  hatred 
which  the  Spaniards  had  every  where  incurred  by 
their  cruelty  and  rapacity. 

On  the  anival  of  a  second  army  from  Peru,  Val- 
divia,  whose  ambition  had  always  been  to  conquer  the 
southern  provinces  of  Chili,  advanced  into  the  country 
of  the  Purumancians. 

Here  history  is  probably  defective,  as  we  have  no 
account  of  any  battles  fought  with  these  brave  people, 
who  so  successfully  withstood  the  encroachments  of 
the  Incas,  and  repelled  the  invasion  of  Almagro.    We 


140  THE     AKAUCANIANS. 

simply  learn  that  the  Spanish  leader  eventually  gained 
their  good-will,  and  established  with  them  an  alliance 
both  offensive  and  defensive — a  wise  measure,  with- 
out which  the  Spaniards  might  never  have  been  able 
to  subject  the  country,  for  these  formidable  enemies 
became,  in  after  wars,  most  efficient  auxiliaries  against 
the  indomitable  Araucanians. 

In  the  following  year  (1546)  the  Spanish  forces 
crossed  the  river  Maule,  the  southern  boundary  of  the 
Purumancians,  and  advanced  toward  the  Itata. 

While  encamped  near  the  latter  river,  they  were 
attacked  at  the  dead  of  night  by  a  body  of  Arauca- 
nians. So  unexpected  was  the  approach  of  this  new 
enemy,  that  many  of  the  horses  were  captured,  and 
the  army  with  difficulty  escaped  total  destruction. 

After  this  terrible  defeat,  Valdivia  finding  himself 
unable  to  proceed,  returned  to  Santiago.  Soon  after 
he  went  to  Peru  in  hope  of  there  being  able  to  collect 
an  army  adequate  to  the  subjugation  of  the  Arauca- 
ians.  But  that  unhappy  country  was  distracted  by 
civil  wars,  and  it  was  not  until  the  restoration  of  order, 
some  two  years  subsequently,  that  he  was  enabled  to 
raise  a  large  band  of  followers,  with  whom  he  returned 
/to  Chili. 
Kir  f  ■  //  Considering  the  Spanish  power  well  established 
^^5p^  /in  Northern  Chili,  after  nine  years  of  possession,  he 
divided  the  lands  and  inhabitants  among  his  principal 
adherents,  and^gain  marched  to  the  South. 

Reaching  the  bay  of  Talcahuano  without  having 
met  with  any  opposition,  on  the  5th  of  October,  1550, 
he  founded  the  city  of  Concepcion  on  a  site  at  present 
known  as  Penco. 


OPPOSITION    OF    THE    ARAUCANIANS.    141 

The  new  settlement  was  not  long  allowed  to  remain 
unmolested,  for  the  Araucanians  gathering  to  the  num- 
Iber  of  four  thousand  men,  under  Aillavalu,  crossed  the 
Bio-Bio  and  advanced  as  far  as  the  Andalien,  where 
they  were  met  by  the  Spaniards,  who,  confident  of 
victory,  had  marched  out  into  the  open  plain  to  re- 
ceive them.  Unappalled  by  the  discharges  of  the 
musketry,  they  moved  rapidly  both  upon  the  front 
and  flanks  of  the  invaders,  who  were  drawn  up  in 
solid  squares,  supported  by  the  cavalry.  The  battle 
raged  furiously  for  many  hours:  the  slaughter  was 
great  on  both  sides ;  and  more  than  once  the  Spanish 
ranks  were  broken  and  tlirown  into  a  confusion  from 
which  they  with  difficulty  recovered.  Valdivia's  horse 
was  killed,  and  he  himself  barely  escaped  with  life. 
Though  he  had  served  in  many  battles  in  both  hemi- 
spheres, he  afterward  declared  that  never  before  had 
he  been  exposed  to  so  great  peril. 

The  victory  seemed  doubtful,  when  Aillavalu,  ad- 
vancing rashly  before  his  troops,  was  slain;  and  the 
Indians,  finding  themselves  without  a  leader,  retreated 
slowly  and  in  good  order.  The  Spaniards  felt  no  de- 
sire to  pursue,  feeling  amply  satisfied  with  the  main- 
tenance of  their  position  and  the  semblance  of  a  vic- 
tory. 

Withdrawing  to  their  own  territory,  the  Arauca- 
ians  called  a  council  of  the  nation  for  the  election  of  a 
new  ToquL  The  choice  fell  upon  Lincoyan,  a  chief 
who  had  gained  great  reputation  both  for  discretion 
and  valor. 

But  Lincoyan  was  little  to  be  feared ;  he  was  an 
excellent  subordinate,   but  utterly  unfitted  to  com- 


142  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

mand ;  though  not  wanting  in  personal  valor,  he  was 
devoid  of  moral  courage  ;  he  dared  assume  no  respon- 
sibiHty,  and  too  much  dreaded  defeat  ever  to  Ibe  vic- 
torious. 

Collecting  a  large  army,  he  crossed  the  Bio-Bio,  and 
marched  upon  the  town. 

So  great  was  the  consternation  inspired  by  his  ap- 
proach that  the  inhabitants  fled  to  the  fort,  and  the 
soldiers  prepared  themselves  for  the  battle  by  con- 
fession and  communion.  But  after  much  delay,  and 
some  ineffectual  skirmishing,  he  suddenly  withdrew 
beyond  the  Bio-Bio. 

The  Indians  themselves  were  unable  to  compre- 
hend the  object  of  such  a  movement ;  but  the  Span- 
iards, never  at  loss  for  a  miracle,  attributed  their  de- 
livery to  the  intervention  of  the  saints ;  and  there 
were  not  wanting  those  who  gravely  asserted  that 
they  had  seen  St.  James  upon  his  white  steed  charg- 
ing on  the  ranks  of  the  infidel  barbarians. 

For  two  years  the  new  city  remained  unmolested, 
and  Yaldivia,  supposing  that  the  spirit  of  the  Arau- 
canians  had  been  broken,  determined  to  invade  their 
territory. 

In  1552  he  crossed  the  Bio-Bio  and  marched 
through  Encol  and  Puren  ^s  far  as  the  river  Cantin, 
upon  whose  banks,  at  its  confluence  with  the  Damas, 
he  founded  a  city,  naming  it  "El  Imperial,"  in  honor 
of  Charles  the  Fifth,  or,  as  some  assert,  on  account  of 
having  there  discovered  certain  rudely-carved  figures, 
bearing  some  resemblance  to  the  double-headed  eagle 
of  Austria.  Passing  beyond  the  limits  of  the  Arau- 
canian  territoiy^he  founded  a  town,  to  which  he  gave 


PROGRESS     OF     THE     WAR.  143 

his  own  family  name,  "  Valdivia,"  He  also  dispatched 
an  officer  with  sixty  men  to  establish  a  post  on  the 
shore  of  a  lake  lying  near  a  volcano ;  from  the  great 
wealth  of  the  surrounding  district,  this  settlement 
afterward  became  known  as  La  Yilla  Hica,  "The 
Eich  City." 

Throughout  this  march  the  Spaniards  met  with 
but  little  opposition,  for  though  the  timid  Lincoyan, 
with  a  large  army,  hung  continually  about  their  skirts, 
ever  waiting  for  an  opportunity  to  strike,  he  never 
dared  to  give  the  blow.  So  easy  was  the  conquest, 
and  so  favorable  were  the  prospects  of  peace,  that 
Valdivia  magnanimously  divided  the  country  amonp; 
his^Dowers  and  rp-ti^rnedi  to  RniH^^^'^g^ 

In  1553  Yaldivia  again  repaired  to  the  south,  and 
established  posts  at  Puren,  Tucapel,  and  Arauco ;  still 
later  he  founded  his  seventh  and  last  city,  to  which 
he  gave  the  name  of  Las  Fronteras. 

For  a  long  time  dissatisfied  with  the  supineness  of 
Lincoyan,  the  Araucanians  finally  convened  the  na- 
tional council,  and  chose,  in  his  stead,  as  commander 
of  their  armies,  a  chief  renowned  for  his  prowess  and 
great  bodily  strength. 

Caupolican,  the  newly-elected  Toqui,  signalized  the 
commencement  of  his  rule  by  a  well-directed  attack 
upon  the  Spanish  post  at  Arauco. 

Failing  to  reduce  the  fort  both  by  stratagem  and 

sault,  he  determined  upon  a  blockade,  and  invested 
he  place  so  closely  that  the  besieged  were  soon  glad 
to  escape  under  cover  of  the  night.  Destroying  the 
fortifications,  he  moved  rapidly  upon  the  fort  at  Tu- 
capel, which  he  attacked  so  resolutely,  and  with  such 


144  THE    AEAUCANIANS. 

perseverance  that  the  exhausted  and  famishing  gar- 
rison determined  to  abandon  the  place.  Caupolican 
wisely  allowed  them  to  depart  without  molestation, 
and  setting  fire  to  the  deserted  buildings,  he  calmly- 
awaited  the  appearance  of  the  forces  that  he  foresaw 
would  soon  march  to  attack  him. 

Nor  was  he  long  obhged  to  wait,  for  no  sooner  did 
the  news  of  these  disasters  reach  Concepcion,  than 
Yaldivia,  hastily  assembling  an  army  and  neglecting 
the  prudent  counsels  of  his  officers,  marched  in  search 
of  the  enemy.  When  near  Tucapel  a  few  horsemen 
were  sent  forward  to  reco?inoitre,  but  they  did  not 
return;  and  advancing,  the  Spaniards  were  filled 
with  horror  as  they  beheld  the  gory  heads  of  their 
murdered  companions  hanging  firom  the  topmost 
branches  of  the  trees.  A  short  distance  further  on 
the  army  of  Caupolican  was  seen  drawn  up  with  ad- 
mirable order  in  battle  array;  while  beyond,  the 
smoke  was  rising  firom  the  blackened  ruins  of  the 
fort. 

During  the  battle  which  ensued  the  Araucanians 
exhibited  great  coolness,  those  in  the.  rear  marching 
in  regular  squadrons  to  the  relief  of  those  in  the  fi:ont 
ranks,  who  in  turn  retired  to  re-form  and  hold  them- 
selves in  readiness  to  assist  their  comrades  ;  but  after 
several  hours  of  hard  fighting,  unable  longer  to  with- 
stand the  terrible  efiects  of  the  musketry,  they  be- 
gan to  fly,  and  were  hotly  pursued  by  the  Span- 
iards, who,  thirsting  for  revenge,  pressed  forward  in 
confusion.  At  this  critical  moment,  a  young  Arau- 
canian  captive,  named  Lautaro,  who  had  been  reared 
in  Valdivia's   family,  iiished  among  liis  discomfited 


DEATH     OF     VALDIYIA.  145 

countrymen,  exhorting  them  to  pause  and  turn  upon 
their  enemies,  who  were  but  a  handful  of  weakened 
and  dispirited  men,  whose  only  strength  consisted  in 
that  superior  order  which  they  had  now  forgotten. 

By  eloquent  entreaties  he  succeeded  in  inspiring 
the  fugitives  with  fresh  courage,  and  rallying,  they  fell 
upon  their  pursuers,  who,  borne  on  by  the  ardor  of 
the  chase,  had  become  dispersed  in  all  directions. 
The  scattered  horsemen  were  every  where  overwhelm- 
ed by  numbers,  dragged  from  their  saddles,  and  tram- 
pled under  foot. 

The  Spaniards,  in  turn,  were  struck  with  panic ; 
the  carnage  was  dreadful ;  and  of  the  whole  army, 
only  two  persons  survived  to  bear  to  Concepcion  the 
tidings  of  their  defeat. 

The  unfortunate  Valdivia  was  captured ;  and  though 
he  sued  for  life,  promising,  if  released,  to  abandon  the 
country  forever  with  all  his  followers,  he  was  put  to 
death.  This  happened  on  the  23d  December,  1553. 
There  are  many  and  conflicting  accounts  of  this  event, 
and  at  this  day  it  is  impossible  to  determine  the  truth ; 
but  the  story  which  seems  most  deserving  of  credit,  is 
that  Lautaro  wished  to  save  the  life  of  his  former  mas- 
ter, when  an  aged  chief,  seizing  an  ax,  dashed  out  the 
brains  of  the  captive  general,  reproaching  his  country- 
men for  their  folly  in  trusting  to  the  promises  of  so 
perfidious  an  enemy. 

Yaldivia  was  one  of  the  most  remarkable  men  that 
figured  in  the  conquest  of  the  Spaniards  in  South 
America.  He  was  a  brave  soldier  and  a  prudent  gen- 
eral. Though  deeply  imbued  with  the  romantic  spirit 
of  the  times,  he  was  far  in  advance  of  his  age ;  for  we 

G 


146  THE    ARAUCANIANS. 

do  not  learn  that  his  triumphs  were  sullied  by  any 
of  those  deeds  of  cruelty  and  bigotry  which  have  left 
so  foul  a  blot  upon  the  otherwise  fair  fame  of  too 
many  of  his  countrymen.  He  does  not  seem  to 
have  been  avaricious,  the  love  of  glory  being  to  him 
a  greater  incentive  than  the  love  of  gold. 

The  great  and  fatal  mistake  of  his  life  was  that  of 
holding  too  lightly  the  prowess  of  the  Araucanians, 
and  scattering  his  forces  throughout  their  territory  in 
^such  small  numbers  and  at  such  distances  that  they 
could  be  easily  attacked  and  defeated  in  detail,  before 
assistance  could  reach  them  from  abroad. 


I 


CHAPTER   XIII. 

Battle  of  Marigueno. — ^Destruction  of  Concepcion. — Coneepcion  re- 
built and  again  destroyed. — Expedition  of  Lautaro  against  Santi- 
ago.— His  Defeat  and  Death. 

Immediately  after  the  destruction  of  Valdivia's 
army,  Caupolican  led  forth  the  youthful  Lautaro,  and 
presenting  him  to  the  assembled  multitude  as  the  sav- 
iour of  his  country,  Iby  whose  exertions  alone  the  enemy 
had  been  vanquished,  elected  him  Vice-Toqui,  and 
gave  him  command  of  one  half  the  forces.  The  peo- 
ple by  acclamation  assented  to  this  wise  choice,  and 
none  more  readily  than  those  whose  rank  would  have 
justified  them  in  claiming  that  honor  for  themselves. 

A  discussion  followed  upon  the  proper  manner  of 
prosecuting  the  war  so  favorably  begun.  Many  of 
the  younger  chiefs  proposed  to  march  forth  and  attack 
the  enemy  in  his  strongholds ;  some  wished  even  to 
advance  upon  Santiago  itself;  but  the  more  aged  pru- 
dently advised  their  countrymen  to  be  content  with 
securing  the  victory  at  home  by  driving  out  the  Span- 
iards from  the  posts  they  still  held  south  of  the  Bio- 
Bio. 

Caupolican  wisely  adopted  the  counsels  of  the  aged 
chiefs,  determining  to  attack  the  remaining  Spanish 
towns,  and  leave  his  youthful  lieutenant,  with  a  large 
force,  to  guard  the  frontiers  of  the  north. 


148  THE    AEAUCANIANS. 

Wlien  the  defeat  and  death  of  Valdivia  became 
known  to  the  Spaniards,  the  people  of  Puren  and 
Frontera  fled  for  safety  to  Imperial,  while  those  of 
Villa  Eica  sought  refuge  in  the  fort  at  Yaldivia. 

In  Concepcion  the  news  created  the  greatest  dis- 
may; but  Francisco  De  Yilla  Gran,  who  had  been 
left  in  command  of  the  town,  was  a  bold,  energetic 
soldier,  and  collecting  a  large  body  of  Spaniards  and 
Purumancians,  he  pressed  forward  to  meet  the  victori- 
ous Caupolican. 

Lautaro  foreseeing  the  approach  of  the  enemy,  sta- 
tioned his  own  army  upon  the  lofty  hill  of  Marigueno 
— a  rugged  mass  of  rock  lying  directly  on  the  road  to 
Arauco.  The  summit  of  this  hill  being  flat  and  cov- 
ered with  trees  offered  a  fine  encampment,  while  the 
ruggedness  of  the  sides,  in  some  places  flanked  by  the 
waves  of  the  sea,  in  others  by  almost  impenetrable 
thickets,  rendered  it  easily  defensible.  In  this  posi- 
tion he  awaited  the  Spanish  general. 

In  a  narrow  defile,  through  which  ran  the  road, 
a  strong  body  of  Araucanians  were  advantageously 
posted  as  an  advance-guard.  With  them  the  battle 
commenced.  For  several  hours  they  defended  the 
pass ;  but  finally  giving  way,  they  retreated  slowly, 
fighting  as  they  went,  toward  the  summit,  where  the 
Indian  army  lay  encamped. 

The  Spaniards  were  surprised,  at  the  very  moment 
when  they  thought  the  battle  ended,  to  find  a  second 
army  drawn  up  to  oppose  them.  Yet  confident  of  vic- 
tory, they  pushed  resolutely  on.  But  they  were  met 
by  a  spirit  equal  to  their  own ;  for  the  fierce  w^irriors 
of  Arauco,  urged  on  by  the  voice  of  their  youthfiil 


BATTLE     OF     MARIGUENO.  149 

ider,  displayed  more  than  their  accustomed  valor, 
and  made  a  most  efficient  use  of  the  horses  and  Eu- 
ropean arms  which  were  the  proud  trophies  of  their 
recent  triumph  over  Yaldivia.  The  fire  of  six  field- 
pieces,  however,  told  with  terrible  effect  upon  their 
ranks,  and  they  soon  hegan  to  waver. 

Lautaro  seeing  the  impossibility  of  maintaining  liis 
position  in  the  face  of  the  Spanish  cannon,  determined 
to  capture  them.  For  this  purpose  he  selected  one 
of  his  bravest  officers,  to  whom  he  assigned  a  body 
of  picked  men,  while  he  himself,  to  divert  attention 
from  the  real  purpose,  fell  furiously  upon  Yilla  Gran's 
flank. 

So  bold  and  sudden  was  the  attack,  and  so  unex«- 
pected  the  design,  that  the  artillerymen  were  thrown 
into  confiision  and  driven  from  their  guns,  which  were 
borne  off  in  triumph  by  the  exulting  savages. 

Disheartened  by  so  irreparable  a  loss,  the  Spaniards 
in  turn  began  to  give  way,  and  Villa  Gran,  having  first 
dispatched  an  officer  to  secure  the  narrow  pass  in 
which  the  battle  began,  reluctantly  ordered  a  retreat. 
All  was  now  confusion:  the  fugitives  strained  every 
nerve,  but  the  Indians  pursued  so  hotly  that  Yilla 
Gran  himself  was  saved  from  capture  only  by  the 
heroic  exertions  of  a  few  of  his  followers.  On  reach- 
ing the  defile,  they  found  it  already  occupied  by  a 
band  of  the  bravest  Araucanians,  whom  the  far-seeing 
Lautaro,  confident  of  the  victory,  had  dispatched  for 
the  purpose  early  in  the  action.  The  road,  too,  had 
been  obstructed  with  the  trunks  of  fallen  trees,  over 
which  the  horses  could  with  difficulty  advance. 

The  slaughter  here  was  dreadful,  and  the  Spaniards 


150  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

must  have  been  annihilated  hut  for  the  desperate  cour- 
age of  their  leader,  who,  placing  himself  at  the  head  of 
his  few  remaining  troops,  charged  furiously  upon  the 
enemy,  and  succeeded  in  breaking  through  the  pass 
and  escaping  with  a  handful  of  men  to  Concepcion. 

Great  was  the  consternation  of  the  people  of  Con- 
cepcion. With  the  small  surviving  force  it  was  im- 
possible to  defend  the  fort,  and  it  became  necessary 
to  abandon  their  homes  before  the  arrival  of  Lautaro, 
who  was  momentarily  expected. 

The  women,  the  children,  the  aged,  and  the  infirm 
were  hastily  placed  aboard  the  ships,  to  be  conveyed 
to  Imperial  and  Valparaiso,  while  the  more  hardy  por- 
^on  of  the  inhabitants  took  up  their  long  and  weary 
march  for  Santiago,  which  place  they  reached  in  safety, 
after  great  sufferings  and  privations. 
i  Scarcely  had  the  flying  citizens  found  shelter  in  the 
woods  when  the  haughty  Araucanians  were  exulting 
over  the  smoking  ruins  of  the  deserted  town. 

The  amount  of  booty  that  the  savages  bore  back  to 
their  homes  was  great ;  for  such  was  the  precipitation 
of  the  fugitives  that  they  took  away  only  the  most 
necessary  articles,  leaving  all  their  treasures  as  spoils 
for  the  victors. 

Imperial  and  Villa  Hica  having  received  the  rein- 
forcements which  were  sent  by  Villa  Gran  at  the  ear- 
liest opportunity,  were  enabled  to  withstand  protracted 
sieges. 

The  year  following  orders  were  received  firom  the 
Royal  Audience  at  Lima  to  rebuild  Concepcion. 

Though  convinced  of  the  futility  of  the  attempt, 
Villa  Gran,  unwilling  to  disobey  his  instructions,  dis- 


EXPEDITION    AGAINST    SANTIAGO.  151 

patched  a  body  of  troops  and  a  number  of  colonists  to 
re-establish  the  devoted  city. 

Lautaro,  apprised  of  their  design,  immediately 
crossed  the  Bio-Bio.  The  Spanish  soldiers,  most  of 
whom  had  but  recently  arrived  from  Peru,  and  little 
understood  the  character  of  the  Chilian  Indians, 
marched  confidently  out  into  the  open  field  to  await 
the  attack.  Again  were  they  defeated,  and  fled  to  the 
fort  in  precipitation ;  but  so  closely  were  they  pursued, 
that  they  were  unable  to  close  the  gates  upon  the  en- 
emy, and  the  Araucanians  entering,  slew  many  of  the 
Spaniards  within  their  own  intrenchments. 

The  terrified  colonists  rushed,  some  to  their  ships, 
and  others  to  the  neighboring  woods,  while  the  ill- 
fated  city  was  a  second  time  given  up  to  the  flames 
by  the  victorious  Lautaro. 

Emboldened  by  repeated  success  the  young  Arau- 
canian  hero  now  determined  upon  an  enterprise  more 
grand  than  any  he  had  yet  undertaken.  Undismayed 
by  the  length  of  the  march,  and  the  difficulties  to  be 
overcome,  with  an  army  of  only  six  hundred  chosen 
men  he  set  out  for  the  north,  intending  to  attack  the 
city  of  Santiago  itself — the  great  stronghold  of  the 
Spaniards  in  Chili. 

He  soon  reached  the  Maule,  which  was  crossed 
without  opposition.  Here  an  opportunity  was  offered 
for  Lautaro  to  conciliate  the  Purumancians,  who  terri- 
fied by  his  approach,  and  disheartened  by  the  numer- 
ous defeats  of  the  Spaniards  whom  they  had  hitherto 
deemed  invincible,  might  easily  have  been  induced  to 
break  their  unnatural  alliance,  and  make  with  the 
Araucanians  a  common  cause  against  the   common 


I 


152  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

enemy.  But  the  impetuous  young  chief,  forgetful  of 
all  policy  in  his  desire  to  be  revenged  upon  these 
traitors  to  their  race,  mercilessly  laid  waste  their  ter- 
ritory, burned  their  houses  and  destroyed  their  crops, 
and  subsequently  fortified  himself  in  their  midst  upon 
the  banks  of  the  Rio  Claro. 

The  object  of  this  latter  step  it  is  difficult  to  con- 
ceive. Had  he  pushed  on,  the  city  of  Santiago  might 
have  fallen ;  but  the  delay  was  fatal. 

The  Spaniards,  on  learning  the  approach  of  the 
enemy,  were  astonished  by  his  boldness.  They 
could  scarcely  believe  that  an  untutored  barbarian 
had  conceived  a  design  of  such  magnitude.  But  the 
Governor,  who  was  none  other  than  that  Villa  Gran 
who  suffered  so  terrible  a  defeat  at  the  hands  of  the 
stripling  Lautaro,  on  the  hill  of  Marigueno,  weU  knew 
the  character  of  the  foeman  against  whom  he  would 
have  to  contend,  and  without  loss  of  time  he  set  to 
work  to  guard  every  avenue  of  approach,  to  fortify 
the  city,  and  enable  it  to  withstand  a  protracted  siege. 

Day  after  day  passed,  yet  the  enemy  did  not  make 
his  appearance,  and  the  Santiaguinos,  emboldened  by 
this  delay,  sent  forward  a  company  of  horse  to  recon- 
noitre, which  was  attacked  near  the  Araucanian  camp, 
and  driven  back  with  much  loss. 

A  second  expedition  met  with  no  better  fate,  for, 
deceived  by  a  pretended  flight,  the  Spaniards  allowed 
themselves  to  be  drawn  within  the  Indian  intrench- 
ments,  where  they  were  cut  to  pieces  by  their  cunning 
foe,  the  horse  only  being  enabled  to  escape  by  leap- 
ing the  palisades.  , 

A  third  army  was  dispatched,  under  command  of 


THE     ARAUCANIANS     SURPRISED.     153 

the  Governor's  son,  who  stationed  his  forces  within  a 
short  distance  of  the  enemy.  Three  times  did  lie 
march  to  the  attack,  and  as  often  was  he  driven  back 
Avith  serious  loss,  until  despairing  of  victory,  he  broke 
up  his  camp  and  returned  to  Santiago. 

It  has  been  asserted  that  the  cause  of  this  pre- 
cipitate retreat  was  the  discovery  of  a  design  enter- 
tained by  Lautaro,  of  turning  the  course  of  the  river 
Mataquito  in  such  a  manner  as  to  inundate  the  Span- 
ish camp.  But  this  story,  probably,  has  no  higher 
authority  than  Ercilla,  who  often  deals  in  the  marvel- 
ous. That  the  Spaniards  may  have  heard  some  such 
rumor,  and  been  influenced  by  it,  is  possible.  That 
the  Araucanian  leader  should  have  conceived  such  an 
idea  is  highly  improbable ;  but  the  project  itself,  to 
one  acquainted  with  the  mechanical  skill  of  the  In- 
dians, and  the  nature  of  the  country,  seems  simply 
ridiculous. 

Learning  the  ill  success  of  his  son,  the  Governor, 
though  stiU  suffering  from  the  effects  of  illness,  de- 
termined to  conduct  the  war  in  person,  for  he  longed 
to  wipe  out,  by  victory,  the  remembrance  of  his 
former  disgraceful  defeat. 

Collecting  a  force  of  two  hundred  Spaniards  and  a 
thousand  allies,  he  set  out.  Marching  with  great 
rapidity,  yet  with  the  utmost  secrecy  and  caution,  by 
unfrequented  paths,  he  succeeded,  under  the  guidance 
of  an  Indian  spy,  in  approaching  the  Araucanian  camp 
without  detection.  At  early  dawn  the  signal  for  the 
attack  was  sounded.  The  surprise  was  complete. 
The  enemy,  who  had  observed  the  most  unceasing 
vigilance  during  the  night,  growing  careless  on  the 


154  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

approach  of  day,  had  incautiously  retired  to  rest. 
Lautaro,  wearied  by  constant  watching,  was  sleeping. 
At  the  first  alarm,  springing  from  his  couch,  he  has- 
tened to  rally  his  followers  for  the  fight.  But  it  was 
too  late;  the  assault  had  "been  as  overwhelming  as 
unexpected,  and  all  was  confusion.  As  he  rushed 
forth  to  the  foremost  ranks,  a  dart  fi.'om  the  hand  of 
one  of  those  very  Pui-umancians  whose  fields  he  had 
so  ruthlessly  devastated,  pierced  his  heart,  and  he  fell 
expiring  to  the  ground. 

The  Araucanians  crowded  around  the  lifeless  body 
of  their  chief,  fighting  with  all  the  reckless  energy  of 
despair. 

In  vain  did  Villa  Gran  again  and  again  offer  quar- 
ter, and  entreat  them  to  submit.  His  proffered  mercy 
was  met  with  scoffing  and  execrations.  Scornfully 
did  they  refuse  to  survive  the  loss  of  their  cherished 
leader.  Though  hemmed  in  upon  all  sides,  with 
every  avenue  for  escape  closed,  they  obstinately  court- 
ed death  in  whatsoever  shape,  and  when  wounded 
and  exhausted  threw  themselves  in  impotent  rage 
upon  the  leveled  lances  of  the  Spanish  soldiery. 

Of  this  whole  devoted  band  of  some  six  hundred 
heroic  men,  not  one  remained  alive  to  bear  back  to 
his  afflicted  countrymen  the  sad  tidings  of  Lauta- 
ro's  fall. 

Thus  ended  the  career  of  one  who  stands  unequal- 
ed  in  the  annals  of  Indian  wars.  Though  but  nine- 
teen years  of  age  at  the  time  of  his  death,  he  had  dis- 
played a  military  skill,  and  a  fertility  of  resources  not 
unworthy  of  an  experienced  general.  Opposed  by 
veteran  leaders,  and  by  the  best  soldiers  of  Europe, 


DEATH     OF     LANTARO. 


155 


he  achieved,  in  the  short  space  of  two  years,  a  series 
of  brilliant  victories  which  threatened  the  Spanish 
settlements  in  Chili  with  annihilation,  and  gave  an 
undying  lustre  to  his  country's  name. 

The  very  enemy  vied  with  his  friends  in  doing 
honor  to  his  memory,  and  there  were  not  wanting 
Spanish  writers  who,  in  their  generous  enthusiasm, 
held  him  up  to  the  world  as  unsurpassed  even  by  the 
noblest  heroes  of  antiquity. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

Mendoza  rebuilds  Concepcion. — Cruelty  to  Prisoners. — Attempted 
Surprise  of  Imperial. — Death  of  Caupolican. — Progress  of  Hostil- 
ities.— Janaqueo. — Martin  Loyola. — ^Destruction  of  the  Cities  of 
the  Plain. — Conclusion. 

In  1557  Don  Garcia  de  Mendoza  set  sail  from 
Peru,  and  reaching  Concepcion  in  the  month  of  April, 
disembarked  his  forces  upon  the  island  of  Quiriquina, 
which  lies  at  the  mouth  of  Talcapuano  Bay,  the 
harbor  of  Concepcion. 

Immediately  he  dispatched  a  messenger  to  the 
Araucanians,  inviting  them  to  send  a  deputation  to 
his  camp  for  the  purpose  of  hearing  proposals  for  the 
establishment  of  a  permanent  peace. 

The  crafty  savages  joyfully  accepted  his  invitation, 
sending  several  of  their  shrewdest  chiefs,  to  whom 
Mendoza  displayed  his  entire  armament,  taking  them 
through  every  part  of  his  camp,  hoping  thereby  to 
inapress  them  with  his  power,  and  convince  them  of 
the  foUy  of  continuing  the  war.  They  minutely  ex- 
amindfl  every  thing,  and  listened  attentively  to  the 
proposals  of  peace,  but  returned  only  to  exhort  their 
countrymen  to  increased  exertions  in  preparation  for 
the  coming  campaign.  Their  love  of  liberty  was  but 
inflamed  by  the  knowledge  of  the  formidable  force  to 
be  brought  against  them,  and  they  burned  for  an  oppor- 
tunity to  revenge  the  death  of  their  cherished  Lautaro. 


ATTACK     UPON     CONCEPTION. 


15'; 


In  August,  Mendoza  passed  over  to  Penco,  and 
erected  a  strong  fort,  preparatory  to  rebuilding  the 
city  of  Concepcion. 

Scarcely  three  days  were  allowed  to  pass  before 
Caupolican  crossed  the  Bio-Bio,  determined  for  the 
third  time  to  crush  this  ill-fated  settlement.  The  fort 
was  attacked  with  great  fury:  some  of  the  Indians 
dragged  up  the  steep  hill  branches  and  trunks  of 
trees  with  which  to  fiU  the  fosse ;  others  leaped  the 
ditch,  and  tried  to  scale  the  walls ;  many  gained  the 
very  ramparts,  and  threw  themselves  among  the  gar- 
rison; but  they  were  driven  back,  and  their  dead 
bodies,  falling  into  the  ditch  beneath,  soon  formed  a 
bridge  for  the  transit  of  their  companions.  Caupolican 
himself  several  times  gained  the  ramparts,  and  again 
leaped  back  among  his  followers,  each  time  bearing 
as  trophies  the  arms  of  some  conquered  foe. 

The  Spaniards  possessed  the  advantage  both  of 
position  and  of  weapons ;  but  the  Araucanians  were 
so  overpowering  in  number  that  the  ultimate  capture 
of  the  fort  appeared  inevitable. 

Meantime  the  troops  remaining  aboard  the  ships 
and  on  the  island  having  watched  the  combat  for 
several  hours,  and  seeing  the  danger  that  menaced 
their  companions,  manned  the  boats,  and  went  to  the 
rescue.  Landing,  they  fell  vigorously  upon  the  rear 
of  the  Araucanians  who,  thus  exposed  between  two 
heavy  fires,  were  finally  obliged  to  abandon  the  attack, 
and  retreated  with  heavy  loss. 

The  Spaniards,  soon  after  this  battle,  received  a 
considerable  reinforcement  from  Peru;  and  Caupoli- 
can, despairing  of  ever  being  able  to  drive  them  from 


158  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

Concepcion,  retired  from  the  frontier,  immeasurably 
chagrined  at  the  idea  of  having  "been  twice  defeated 
where  his  young  lieutenant  had  been  as  often  victo- 
rious. 

The  Araucanians  were,  in  turn,  now  called  upon  to 
stand  on  the  defensive;  for  Mendoza,  crossing  the 
Bio-Bio  with  an  army  larger  than  any  that  had  yet 
been  brought  into  the  field  by  the  Spaniards,  carried 
the  war  into  the  heart  of  the  Indian  territory.  Actu- 
ated by  a  mistaken  policy  he  laid  waste  the  country, 
destroying  every  thing  that  came  within  his  reach, 
and  mutilated  the  prisoners  that  fell  into  his  hands, 
hoping,  by  means  of  intimidation,  to  break  the  spirit 
of  a  people  whom  arms  could  not  subdue;  but,  as 
might  have  been  expected,  the  efiect  of  such  acts  of 
barbarity  upon  a  free  and  haughty  race  was  only  to 
increase  the  bitter  hatred  they  already  felt  for  their 
cruel  enemies,  and  nerve  them  to  greater  exertions. 
The  mutilated  victims  who,  deprived  of  their  noses 
and  ears,  with  their  tongues  cut  out,  or  with  their 
hands  lopped  ofi",  had  been  sent  back  to  strike  terror 
into  the  breasts  of  their  countrymen,  went  from  house 
to  house  in  every  direction,  by  the  sight  of  their 
maimed  limbs  and  disfigured  countenances  inflaming 
the  minds  of  the  people  against  the  brutal  invaders, 
who  could  use  such  fiendish  cruelty  toward  helpless 
captives,  whose  only  crime  had  been  that  of  loving 
their  country  and  their  liberties  too  well. 

The  Spaniards  were  continually  harassed  upon  their 
march,  and  many  sanguinary  battles  occurred,  but  the 
vast  superiority  (5f  the  European  armament  more  than 
compensated  for  disparity  of  numbers ;  and  keeping 


I 


ATTACK     UPON     IMPERIAL.  159 

on  toward  Tucupel,  Mendoza  founded,  upon  the  scene 
of  Yaldivia's  defeat,  a  city  wliich  he  called  Canete — 
from  his  own  title,  he  being  the  Marquis  of  Canete. 
He  then  marched  to  Imperial,  which  place  still  suc- 
cessfully maintained  itself  against  the  Araucanians. 

Caupolican  failing  in  an  endeavor  to  take  the  town 
of  Imperial  by  assault,  sought  to  capture  it  by  strat- 
agem. For  the  accomplishment  of  this  end,  a  shrewd 
officer,  by  the  name  of  Pran,  was  selected,  who,  in 
the  disguise  of  a  Purumancian,  easily  obtained  admis- 
sion to  the  town,  and  became  acquainted  with  many 
of  the  captives  and  allies  about  the  camp. 

By  conversing  with  all  he  discovered  the  feeling  of 
each  toward  the  Spaniards,  and  was  not  long  in  fix- 
ing upon  one — ^Andressillo  by  name — ^who  apparently 
entertained  sentiments  of  the  bitterest  hostility  toward 
his  imperious  masters,  and  seemed  well  fitted  to  aid 
in  any  attempt  for  their  overthrow.  To  him  Pran 
cautiously  divulged  his  real  character,  and  the  nature 
of  his  designs. 

The  cunning  Andressillo  pretended  to  enter  warmly 
into  the  plans  suggested,  promising  a  hearty  co-oper- 
ation, and  advised  that,  in  order  to  insure  success, 
the  Araucanians  should  hold  themselves  in  readiness 
to  surprise  the  place  on  the  morrow  at  noon-day — at 
which  time,  he  said,  the  Spaniards  were  accustomed 
to  retire  for  the  siesta,  leaving  the  gates  closed  but 
unguarded. 

The  two  conspirators  parted  joyfully:  the  one  to 
communicate  his  success  to  Caupolican ;  the  other  to 
reveal  to  Mendoza  every  thing  that  had  transpired. 
Both  parties  took  measures  accordingly. 


160  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

The  Araucanians  marching  toward  the  town  with 
the  greatest  secrecy,  concealed  themselves  in  the  neigh- 
boring thickets,  impatiently  awaiting  the  arrival  of 
noon.  At  the  time  agreed  upon  they  neared  the 
walls.  All  was  still ;  no  sentinel  appeared  upon  the 
ramparts,  and  the  gates  were  closed.  Presently  An- 
dressillo  opened  the  gates,  and  beckoned  them  to  come 
on.  They  advanced  in  breathless  silence,  and  with 
noiseless  tread  entered  the  town. 

The  Spaniards  lay  scattered  around,  apparently  in 
deep  slumber ;  but  no  sooner  were  a  certain  number 
of  the  Indians  within,  than  the  gates  were  closed  be- 
hind them,  and  a  murderous  fire  of  musketry  com- 
menced from  hidden  foes  in  every  direction,  while  the 
soldiers  springing  up,  charged  furiously  upon  the  en- 
trapped and  bewildered  savages.  At  the  same  time 
the  cannons  poured  volleys  upon  those  without  the 
walls,  and  the  cavalry  charging  out  firom  a  side  gate, 
completed  the  discomfiture  of  the  whole  army. 

Of  those  who  had  been  decoyed  within  the  walls 
not  one  escaped,  and  the  few  that  were  taken  alive 
were  treated  with  the  most  inhuman  barbarity ;  some 
were  even  tied  to  the  cannon's  mouth,  and  blown  into 
the  air ;  the  heads  of  many  were  severed  from  their 
bodies,  and  placed  upon  poles  planted  around  the 
ramparts. 

Fortunately  the  Araucanian  general  and  his  officers 
of  higher  rank,  deeming  a  victory  to  be  obtained  by 
stratagem  imworthy  of  warriors,  did  not  accompany 
the  army,  and  thus  escaped  destruction. 

Caupolican,  unsubdued  by  repeated  misfortunes, 
fled  from  place  to  place,  striving  by  every  means  to 


DEATH     OF     CAUPOLICAN.  161 

rally  his  countrymen;  but  lie  was  taken,  not  long 
after,  by  treachery,  and  delivered  into  the  hands  of 
Don  Alonzo  E-eynoso,  governor  of  Canete. 

If  we  may  believe  the  romantic  account  of  Ercilla, 
the  wife  of  the  unfortunate  chieftain,  on  learning  his 
capture,  hastened  to  upbraid  him  with  cowardice  in 
allowing  himself  to  be  taken  alive;  and  scomfiilly 
threw  to  him  her  infant  child,  exclaiming : 

"No  quiero  titulo  de  madre 

Del  hijo  infame,  del  infame  padre !" 

("I  do  not  wish  to  be  called  the  mother  of  the  infa- 
mous son  of  an  infamous  father.") 

With  a  refinement  of  barbarity,  this  noble  warrior 
was  doomed  to  death  by  the  horrible  punishment  of 
impalement — an  inhuman  sentence,  that  was  enforced 
upon  the  vanquished  hero  after  he  had  been  duly 
instructed,  converted,  and  baptized  in  the  religion  of 
his  executioners. 

He  heard  the  announcement  of  his  fate  with  com- 
posure, and  marched  with  a  firm  step  to  the  place  of 
execution ;  but,  on  mounting  the  scaffold  and  behold- 
ing the  horrid  instrument  of  torture  and  the  hideous 
negro  who  approached  to  enforce  the  decree  of  death, 
he,  for  the  first  time,  comprehended  the  nature  of  the. 
indignity  he  was  about  to  suffer.  With  one  kick  of 
his  manacled  foot  he  sent  the  black  monster  reeling 
to  the  ground,  and,  turning  upon  the  assembled  muL 
titude,  he  bitterly  complained  of  the  inhumanity  of 
the  punishment,  demanding,  as  a  warrior  and  in  the 
name  of  justice,  that  some  worthier  instrument,  some 
nobler  hand  might  be  found  to  terminate  his  exist- 
ence ;  but,   overpowered  by  numbers,  he  was  forced 


162  THE     AEAUCANIANS. 

upon  the  stake.  Not  an  exclamation  of  agony  es- 
caped his  lips ;  not  a  muscle  of  his  frame  quivered ; 
and  he  bore  the  agonies  of  torture  with  unflinching 
fortitude,  until  a  flight  of  friendly  arrows  pierced  his 
bosom  and  he  expired. 

Caupolican  was  succeeded  in  the  Toquiship  by  his 
own  son,  who,  with  various  success,  prosecuted  the 
war — greatly  harassing  the  Spaniards — until,  in  the 
year  following  (1559),  he  met  with  an  overwhelming 
defeat  at  the  hands  of  Mendoza.  Fearing  to  suffer 
his  father's  fate  if  taken,  he  slew  himself  when  on  the 
point  of  being  captured. 

In  this  battle  the  overthrow  of  the  Araucanians  was 
so  complete  that  Mendoza,  deeming  it  decisive,  imme- 
diately commenced  rebuilding  the  various  towns  and 
forts  that  had  been  destroyed  by  the  Indians — espe- 
cially Arauco,  Tucapel,  and  Villa  Hica. 

The  Council  of  the  nation,  convening  after  the  death 
of  Caupolican  the  younger,  elected  Antihueno — a  man 
renowned  for  courage  and  determination — ^to  take  com- 
mand of  the  army. 

The  new  Toqui  was  unremitting  in  his  exertions  to 
collect  an  army.  Gathering  the  scattered  bands  of  his 
countrymen,  he  practiced  them,  by  continually  skir- 
mishing with  the  enemy,  until  feeling  himself  able  to 
make  a  decided  stand,  he  encamped  on  the  hill  of 
Marigueno,  which,  aside  fr'om  the  impregnable  nature 
of  its  position,  abounded  with  associations  that  served 
to  arouse  the  enthusiasm  of  the  Araucanian  warriors. 
Here  he  was  attacked  by  a  son  of  the  very  Villa 
Gran  who,  on  this  same  spot,  had  been  defeated  by 
Lautaro. 


JANAQUEO.  163 

The  son  was  more  unfortunate  than  even  the  father, 
had  been:  his  army  was  almost  annihilated,  and  he 
himself  perished  in  the  midst  of  the  battle. 

Flushed  with  this  victory,  Antihueno  advanced  upon 
Concepcion ;  but  finding  the  town  too  strongly  garri- 
soned to  be  attacked,  and  capable  of  withstanding  a 
protracted  siege,  he  returned  across  the  Bio-Bio,  and 
advanced  upon  Caiiete,  which  was  deserted  by  the 
Spaniards  on  his  approach. 

Having  burned  Canete  he  proceeded  to  invest  Arau- 
co,  which  place,  after  a  protracted  siege,  was  also  aban- 
doned by  the  garrison. 

Antihueno  afterward  led  an  army  to  the  attack  of 
Kacimiento,  in  1564 ;  but  he  was  slain  in  the  battle, 
which  ended  in  a  terrible  massacre  of  his  army. 

The  death  of  Antihueno  was  followed  by  thirty 
years  of  uninterrupted  war,  in  which  only  two  consid- 
erable battles  were  fought — both  of  which  took  place 
iipon  the  famous  hill  of  Marigueno.  In  the  former 
the  Araucanians,  as  before,  triumphed;  but  in  the 
latter  the  Spaniards,  under  Alonzo  Sotomayor,  gained 
a  complete  victory. 

This  period  was  also  signalized  by  the  exploits  of 
the  Araucanian  heroine  Janaqueo,  the  wife  of  a  chief 
who  was  defeated  and  slain  by  the  Spaniards. 

Learning  the  death  of  her  husband,  she  put  herself 
at  the  head  of  a  band  of  Puelches  and  hung  round  the 
camp,  and  along  the  route  of  her  enemies — harassing 
them  continually,  and  even  defeating  some  of  their 
most  experienced  leaders.  Frequenting  the  most  in- 
accessible fastnesses  of  mountain  and  forest,  and  mov- 
ing from  place  to  place  with  rapidity,  she  was  always 


164  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

at  hand  to  take  any  advantage  which  occasion  might 
offer  for  sudden  attack,  yet  never  to  be  encountered 
when  sought. 

This  Amazon  was  finally  conquered,  not  "by  the 
valor  of  her  foes,  but  by  the  power  of  love — flaying 
down  her  arms  to  save  a  brother,  who,  captive  among 
the  Spaniards  and  under  sentence  of  death,  was  prom- 
ised both  life  and  liberty  on  condition  of  persuading 
his  sister  to  abandon  her  unnatural  profession  and  re- 
tire to  her  home. 

In  the  year  1594  Martin  Loyola,  a  nephew  of  the 
celebrated  St.  Ignatius,  founder  of  the  order  of  Jesuits, 
was  appointed  Governor  of  Concepcion.  One  of  his 
first  ofiicial  acts  was  an  attempt  to  establish  friendly 
relations  with  the  Araucanians. 

Though  really  desirous  of  ending  the  war  in  which 
they  had  been  so  long  engaged,  these  unconquerable 
freemen  insisted  upon  the  abandonment  by  the  Span- 
iards of  all  posts  south  of  the  Bio-Bio,  as  the  first 
step  toward  the  establishment  of  peace ;  but  to  such 
terms  the  Governor  would  not  listen,  and  hostilities 
were  renewed. 

Loyola,  like  most  of  his  predecessors,  was  actuated 
by  the  ambition  of  founding  cities,  and  accordingly 
marched  into  the  Araucanian  territory,  and  established 
a  colony  at  a  place  which  he  named  "  Coya,"  in  honor 
of  his  wife,  a  Peruvian  princess  of  the  Inca  blood. 

The  Toqui  Paillamachu  for  a  long  time  strove  to 
reduce  this  settlement,  as  well  as  that  of  Puren  and 
several  others  ;  but  he  coTild  accomplish  little  against 
the  cautious  Loyola,  who  carefiiUy  fortified  all » the 
Spanish  posts,  and  for  four  years  baffled  every  attack. 


SUCCESSES    OF    THE    ARAUCANIANS.    165 


Yet  the  Araucanian  chief  did  not  despair ;  he  waa 
ever  on  the  alert,  watching  for  some  favorable  moment 
to  strike  a  decisive  blow :  that  moment  at  length  ar- 
rived. On  the  22d  of  November,  1598,  the  Spanish 
governor,  who  was  returning  from  the  Indian  country, 
having  reached  a  position  where  he  thought  no  further 
danger  was  to  be  apprehended,  encamped  for  the  night 
without  observing  the  usual  precautions  against  sur- 
prise. But  Paillamachu  had  been  secretly  following 
his  march,  and  no  sooner  were  the  Spaniards  wrapt 
in  sleep  than  the  Indians  fell  suddenly  upon  them. 
Loyola  and  his  whole  retinue  perished. 

This  bold  stroke  must  have  been  long  meditated, 
and  its  effect  calculated ;  for  no  sooner  had  the  Span- 
ish general  been  slain,  than  a  huge  bonfire  was  kin- 
dled upon  the  nearest  hill:  from  hiU-top  to  hill-top 
answering  flames  shot  high  in  air  ;  lofty  summits  upon 
the  far  horizon  soon  blazed  responsively ;  and  from 
province  to  province  the  fiery  telegraph  ran  along  the 
mountain  ranges — its  ruddy  glare  every  where  calling 
the  expectant  people  to  arms.  Every  Spaniard  found 
without  the  waUs  of  the  towns  was  massacred,  and 
within  forty-eight  hours  Osorno  and  Villa  Rica,  Val- 
divia  and  Imperial,  Caiiete,  Angol,  Coya,  and  Arauco 
were  all  closely  invested  by  bands  of  exulting  savages. 

Without  delay  Paillamachu  marched  upon  Concep- 
cion,  which  he  easily  captured  and  burned.  Chilian 
sufiered  the  same  fate ;  and  laying  waste  the  surround- 
ing country,  he  returned,  laden  with  an  immense  booty, 
to  lay  siege  to  the  yet  remaining  Spanish  towns. 

When  the  news  of  the  death  of  Loyola  and  of  the 
[destruction   of  the  frontier  towns  reached  Santiago, 


166  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

Pedro  Yiscara,  a  veteran  soldier,  took  up  his  marcli 
with  a  strong  force,  and  passing  the  Bio-Bio  relieved 
both  Coya  and  Angol,  whose  inhabitants  were  drawn 
off  in  safety,  and  settled  in  Chilian  and  Concepcion, 
both  of  which  were  rebuilt.  But  all  efforts  to  succor 
the  other  towns  were  unavailing:  one  by  one,  after 
sieges  of  various  duration,  they  were  taken  and  de- 
stroyed. The  inhabitants  were  spared ;  the  men  were 
reserved  as  slaves,  and  the  women  became  the  concu- 
bines of  their  captors. 

In  1602,  about  three  years  from  the  first  insurrec- 
tion, of  the  numerous  Spanish  forts  and  settlements 
south  of  the  Bio-Bio,  Nacimiento  and  Arauco  only 
had  not  fallen.  Yaldivia  and  Osorno  were  afterward 
rebuilt.  About  the  same  time  a  fort  was  erected  at 
Boroa.  This  fort  was  soon  after  abandoned.  Val- 
divia,  Osorno,  Nacimiento,  and  Arauco  still  remain. 
But  of  all  the  "  cities  of  the  plain"  lying  within  the 
boundaries  of  the  haughty  Araucanians,  not  one  ever 
arose  firom  its  ashes ;  their  names  exist  only  in  his- 
tory; and  the  sites  where  they  once  flourished  are 
now  marked  by  ill-defined  and  grass-grown  ruins. 

From  the  period  of  their  fall  dates  the  independence 
of  the  Araucanian  nation ;  for  though  a  hundred  years 
more  were  wasted  in  the  vain  attempt  to  reconquer 
the  heroic  people  who  had  thus  thrown  off  the  galling 
yoke  of  oppression,  the  Spaniards,  weary  of  constant 
war,  and  disheartened  by  the  loss  of  so  much  blood 
and  treasure,  were  finally  compelled  to  sue  for  peace ; 
and  in  1724  a  treaty  was  ratified,  acknowledging  their 
freedom,  and  establishing  the  limits  of  their  territory. 


» 


CHAPTER    XV. 

Plans  for  the  Journey. — Delay  at  Budeo. — Our  Stock  in  Trade. — 
Close  Quarters. — Indian  Graves. — Burial  Feasts. — Funeral  Rites. 
— "Alhue  Mapu,"  the  "Land  of  the  Dead."— State  of  the  Soul 
after  Death. 

DuEiNG  the  few  days  that  we  remained  at  Budeo 
(at  which  place,  the  reader  will  remember,  our  narra- 
tive was  dropped),  Sanchez  and  myself  had  many  dis- 
cussions as  to  the  proper  course  to  be  pursued  on  our 
intended  journey. 

I  wished  to  proceed  without  concealment,  and  in- 
form the  Indians  of  the  true  object  of  my  visit,  telling 
them  that  I  had  come  among  them  actuated  by  the 
desire  of  becoming  acquainted  with  the  manners  and 
customs  of  a  people  who  had  so  successfully  defended 
their  liberties  against  the  power  of  Spain,  extorting 
praise  firom  their  enemies,  and  making  the  name  of 
"  Araucano"  renowned  in  the  history  of  heroic  deeds. 
Such  a  course  seemed  to  me  the  best  calculated  to 
win  their  confidence  and  good-will,  to  say  nothing  of 
the  doubtful  morality  of  an  attempt  to  deceive  them. 
But  Sanchez  was  of  another  way  of  thinking.  My 
ideas,  he  said,  though  no  doubt  very  fine,  would  be 

I  far  above  the  comprehension  of  the  Indians,  who 
would  view  me  with  suspicion,  and  probably  nip  all 
my  fancies  in  the  bud  by  turning  me  out  of  the  coun- 
L 


168  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

try  on  the  first  intimation  of  a -desire  to  pry  into  their 
mode  of  life. 

As  to  the  impropriety  of  deceiving  them,  that  he 
could  not  see;  for  being  habitual  liars  themselves, 
he  thought  it  but  fair  to  fight  them  with  their  own 
weapons. 

I  was  loth  to  give  up  the  old-fashioned  idea  that 
honesty  is  the  best  policy;  But  the  "  Capitan"  cared 
little  for  abstract  principles  ;  he  had  spent  the  greater 
part  of  his  life  among  the  Indians,  knew  them  by 
heart,  had  always  been  accustomed  to  make  them  be- 
lieve whatever  he  pleased,  and  CQuld  guarantee  the  suc- 
cess of  his  own  plans  ;  but  mine  he  would  not  father. 
Under  the  circumstances  it  was  necessary  to  give  him 
a  carte  hlanche,  with  the  understanding  that  he  should 
do  all  the  lying,  and  shoulder  the  responsibility,  to 
which  he  readily  agreed.    His  plan  was  the  following : 

We  were  to  form  a  trading  expedition ;  but  he,  in- 
stead of  myself,  was  to  be  the  "  patron ;"  for  he  had 
determined  not  to  carry  me  in  that  capacity,  on  reflec- 
tion that  "  caballeros"  never  go  on  such  trips  them- 
selves, but  always  make  use  of  interpreters  and  half- 
breeds  to  buy  cattle  and  transact  their  business  for 
them.     For  me  he  had  hit  upon  something  better. 

During  the  war  of  the  Chilian  independence,  among 
other  royalists  who  sought  protection  in  the  midst  of 
the  Indians,  and  with  them  fought  against  the  repub- 
licans, was  a  subordinate  named  Vega.  While  thus 
engaged  he  had  lived  in  the  family  of  Maiiin  (who 
is  now  the  most  influential  of  the  Araucanian  chiefs)  ; 
but  the  war  coming  to  an  end,  he  returned  to  Cortcep- 
cion,  where  he  married  and  settled  down. 


PLANS     FOR     THE     JOURNEY. 


169 


More  than  thirty  years  had  elapsed  since  then ;  but 
the  mind  of  the  Indian  still  reverted  with  pleasure  to 
his  friendship  with  the  Spaniard,  and  he  frequently 
questioned  Sanchez  about  Yega,  expressing  a  great 
desire  to  see  him  or  some  of  his  children. 

The  old  chief's  wishes  were  at  last  to  be  gratified, 
for  Sanchez  had  determined  to  present  me  as  one  of 
the  sons,  under  the  sounding  title  of  Don  Eduardo  de 
la  Vega ;  assuring  him  that  I  had  come  expressly  to 
make  him  a  visit  in  my  father's  name. 

Having  secured  the  good  wishes  of  Manin,  no  one 
would  dare  to  question  further,  and  there  would  prob- 
ably be  no  difficulty  in  obtaining  permission  for  me 
to  go  wherever  I  chose. 

In  order  to  quiet  any  suspicion  that  might  arise 
from  my  language  or  appearance,  that  I  was  other 
than  a  Chileno,  it  was  to  be  represented  that  my 
father  had  sent  me,  when  a  child,  to  Europe  for  my. 
education,  and  that  I  had  but  lately  returned  to 
Chili. 

Having  agTced  upon  all  the  details,  and  studied 
the  part  assigned  me,  it  next  became  necessary  to 
arrange  all  my  traps  in  small  packages  convenient  for 
use,  cutting  the  handkerchiefs,  etc.,  intended  for  pres- 
ents, so  as  to  have  every  thing  easily  attainable. 
The  stock  which  I  had  laid  in  at  Concepcion  and  Los 
Angelos  consisted  of  the  following  articles  : 

Some  six  yards  of  red  flannel  cloth. 

As  many  more  of  blue  flannel. 

Six  dozen  cotton  handkerchiefs  of  all  colors  and 
sizes. 

One  gross  of  brass  thimbles. 
H 


170  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

Two  dozen  liarmonicons. 

Three  dozen  German  Jew's  harps. 

One  dozen  sleigh  bells. 

Five  pounds  of  glass  beads,  assorted  colors, 

And  two  pounds  of  indigo,  besides  an  old  pair  of 
epaulets  intended  to  adorn  the  shoulders  of  the  great 
Maiiin. 

Sanchez  had  his  stock,  which,  being  intended  for 
trade,  was  composed  of  more  valuable  articles,  such  as 
silver  spurs  and  belts.  He  also  carried  a  good  deal 
of  money  in  silver  dollars,  halves,  and  quarters,  and 
as  I  did  not  wish  to  be  troubled  with  the  care  of  it, 
I  also  lent  him  my  purse  for  the  journey. 

When  all  was  in  readiness  for  a  start,  we  were  de- 
layed by  bad  weather,  which  continued  for  several 
days,  and  for  a  great  part  of  the  time  we  were  con- 
fined to  the  house.  As  the  cooking  had  to  be  done 
within  doors,  what  with  the  smoke,  crowd,  and  damp, 
we  were  far  from  comfortable.  During  the  day  this 
could  be  endured,  but  at  night  it  became  insufferable. 

The  house,  if  such  it  might  be  called,  was  a  mere 
basket,  letting  in  rain  in  every  direction,  and  measur- 
ing scarcely  twelve  feet  by  ten.  It  contained  three 
rude  bedsteads,  for  the  accommodation  of  two  married 
couples  and  a  pair  of  grown  up  girls,  while  upon  the 
ground  were  huddled  some  sixteen  young  men  and 
children,  packed  away  on  bull  hides  like  herrings  in 
a  box.  In  the  midst  of  this  motley  throng  I  lay  in 
state,  with  a  whole  hide  to  myself. 

As  long  as  we  were  awake  the  dogs  were  not  allow- 
ed to  enter  the  door;  but  the  moment  we  closed  our 
eyes  the  whole  dripping  pack  came  sneaking  in. 


INDIAN      URAVES.  171 

Soon  I  was  roused  by  a  weight  upon  my  feet,  and 
found  a  lean  and  hungry  animal  lying  across  my 
legs,  while  another  was  snugly  stowed  away  at  my 
fside.  A  few  kicks  drove  them  away,  but  they  soon 
returned.  A  little  pommeling  brought  a  temporary 
relief,  but  only  to  be  followed  by  more  determined 
encroachments,  until  I  was  obliged  to  rise  and  grope 
round  for  a  stick,  which,  once  found,  I  laid  about  me 
lustily. 

There  was  a  tremendous  yelping  and  howling  of 
the  fugitives,  and  many  muttered  imprecations  of 
sleepers,  disturbed  by  the  operation ;  and  laying  the 
stick  under  my  pillow,  i.  e.,  saddle,  I  went  to  sleep. 
But  in  the  morning  I  found  that  the  dirty  curs  had 
monopolized  my  blanket  entirely,  while  the  vivid 
sense  of  something  crawling  round  me,  was  satis- 
factory proof  that  fleas  prefer  a  dry  man  to  a  wet 
dog:  a  preference  which  certainly  does  no  discredit 
to  their  taste. 

Not  far  from  Sanchez's  house  we  saw  an  Indian 
burial-place,  but  we  did  not  visit  it ;  for  the  Ma- 
puches,  unlike  the  North  American  tribes,  avoid  the 
resting-places  of  their  dead,  always  passing  them  in 
silence,  and  with  averted  faces,  and  dislike  to  see 
strangers,  especially  whites,  approach  them.  As 
there  were  many  Indians  scattered  about  in  the 
neighborhood,  we  did  not  wish  to  excite  their  sus- 
picions. 

There  were  said  to  be  many  buried  here,  but  no 
monuments,  or  other  indications  of  graves  were  to  be 

I  seen,   except  in  one  instance   over  the  resting-place 
.............. 


172 


THE     ARAUCANIANS. 


IXniAX   GRAVE. 


Oak).  At  both  the  head  and  the  foot  of  this  grave 
was  an  nprlght,  forked  stick,  supporting  a  transverse 
pole,  over  which  was  hung  the  skin  of  the  chieftain's 
favorite  horse,  while  a  long  bamboo  lance,  planted  in 
the  ground,  with  a  little  white  pennant  fluttering  in 
the  wind,  denoted  the  rank  of  the  deceased. 

The  steel  head  of  the  lance,  we  noticed,  had  been 
replaced  by  a  nicely  whittled  wooden  barb,  quite  as 
useful,  no  doubt,  as  any  other  in  the  spirit-land.  On 
the  same  principle,  though  the  ordinary  arms  and 
horse  trappings  are  buried  with  the  dead,  in  case  of 
articles  of  value,  such  as  silver  spurs,  bits,  and  head- 
stalls, wooden  proxies  are  substituted.  He  would 
probably  get  even  a  wooden  horse  to  ride,  were  it  not 
for  the  predilection   for  horse-flesh   of  his   bereaved 


FUNERAL     RITES.  173 

relatives,  who,  though  they  kill  the  horse,  always  eat 
the  flesh,  and  allow  the  spirit  to  content  himself  with 
the  skin  and  soul. 

It  is,  however,  only  on  the  demise  of  important 
chiefs,  or  men  of  wealth,  that  the  friends  are  treated 
to  a  feast,  for  the  ghosts  of  the  commoner  sort  are 
not  supposed  to  ride;  on  ordinary  occasions,  there- 
fore, the  funeral  rites  are  few  and  simple. 

The  corpse  is  exposed  on  an  open  bier  for  several 
days,  during  which  time  the  friends  and  neighbors 
assemble  to  condole  with  the  bereaved  family.  It  is 
then  borne  to  the  grave  by  the  principal  relatives, 
preceded  by  a  company  of  young  men,  who  ride  for- 
ward at  full  speed,  as  though  to  prepare  the  way  for 
the  deceased.  In  the  rear  follow  the  women  wailing, 
rending  the  air  w4th  their  cries,  and  making  every 
demonstration  of  the  profoundest  grief,  while  another 
walks  behind  the  procession  scattering  ashes  along 
the  way,  to  prevent  the  departed  from  returning  to 
his  former  abode. 

The  body  is  placed  in  the  grave  in  a  sitting  pos- 
ture, with  the  face  turned  toward  the  West,  the  direc- 
tion of  the  spirit-land.     The  saddle  and  arms  of  the 
dead  are  placed  by  his   side;    some  provisions  are 
added  for  the  journey,  together  with  a  few  beads,  or 
a  small  sum  of  money,  necessary  to  pay  the  Mapuche 
Charon.    The  friends  then  wish  the  deceased  a  pleasant 
voyage,  bid  him  good-by,  cover  up  the  grave,  and  retire. 
In  the  case  of  a  woman  the  ceremonies  are  the 
m       same,  with  the  exception  that  instead  of  a  saddle  and 
WL    arms,  a  distaff,  or  some  culinary  utensils,  are  placed 


174  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

It  has  been  asserted,  that  when  a  distinguished 
chief  dies,  one  of  his  wives  is  killed  and  interred  with 
him ;  but  Sanchez  assured  me  that  no  such  custom 
exists,  though  possibly  some  few  cases  of  the  kind 
may  have  happened. 

The  Indians  can  not  tell  the  exact  whereabouts  of 
their  Styx,  though  they  generally  suppose  it  is  the 
ocean.  Nor  can  they  give  the  location  of  their  Ely- 
sium, which  they  call  "Alhue-Mapu"  (The  Land  of 
Spirits).  "How  can  we  tell,"  they  say,  "when  we 
have  never  been  there?"  Much  less  do  they  know 
of  the  occupations  df  the  soul  after  death.  In  fact,  it 
is  a  subject  about  which  they  seldom  bother  their 
brains,  for  though  they  have  some  ill-defined  no- 
tions that  there  is  another  life  after  this,  a  change 
of  place,  perhaps,  rather  than  of  state,  when  ques- 
tioned, they  seldom  fail  to  answer,  "  Chum  pechy 
naif''  (Who  knows?)  with  the  same  air  of  perfect 
blankness  which  accompanies  the  Chileno's  "  Quien 
saber 

I  could  not  learn  that  they  beHeve  in  any  reward 
or  punishment  after  death  for  the  actions  of  this  world, 
though  they  attribute  much  of  the  good  or  evil  fortune 
of  life  to  the  pleasure  or  wrath  of  the  Great  Spkit. 
Some  few  there  are  that  have  a  confused  notion  of 
heaven  and  of  hell,  but  such  ideas  have  undoubtedly 
been  acquired  by  occasional  intercourse  with  Christian 
missionaries. 

According  to  Molina,  the  Mapuches  believe  the 
dead  to  watch  over  and  protect  the  living,  and  join 
them  in  battle  against  the  enemies  of  their  country; 
when  the  thunder  cloud  lowers  over  the  distant  Cor- 


THE     LAND     OF     THE     DEAD. 


175 


dilleras,  they  imagine  their  departed  warriors  to  be 
riding  upon  the  storm,  chasing  away  some  invisible 
foe,  and  frequently  they  encourage  the  aerial  combat- 
ants by  exclaiming,  "  Well  done !  well  done !  good 
friends!" 


CHAPTER    XYL 

Leave  Budeo. — Pincheira  and  his  Followers. — The  Silversmith. — 
The  Missionary. — Anticheo. — Mapuche'  Eloquence. — Dignity  and 
Wives. — Our  Supper. — Calbucoi. — Trading, — Levying  Tribute. 

Leaving  Budeo  we  journeyed  in  a  southeasterly 
direction,  striking  off  into  the  heart  of  the  Araucanian 
territory. 

E-ising  from  the  narrow  valley  through  which  runs 
the  Budeo  river,  we  came  upon  rolling  ground. 
Though  still  in  the  great  central  plain  of  Chili,  the 
sm-face  of  the  country  is  here  undulating,  and  in  other 
respects  also  it  is  much  more  beautiful  than  the  un- 
varying dead  level  to  the  northward.  The  rains, 
which  at  the  south  are  heavy  and  frequent,  give  to 
eveiy  thing  a  freshness  and  verdure,  and  collecting 
in  small  streams,  wear  for  themselves  channels  which 
give  a  pleasing  diversity  to  the  otherwise  monotonous 
landscape.  Upon  the  summits  of  the  higher  hills,  and 
in  all  the  moist  nooks,  gTow  fine  old  oaks,  and  other 
stately  trees,  which  become  more  numerous  as  you 
advance. 

Our  party  numbered  four,  there  being,  besides 
Sanchez  and  myself,  two  "mozas,'*  one  of  whom,  my 
squire,  Jos^  by  name,  was  a  tall,  athletic  dare-devil, 
rather  fond  of  a  vagabond  life,  but  too  lazy  to  be  »ad- 
venturous  :   the  other  was  short,  well-knit,  and  active. 


DON     PA  NT  A.  177 

always  on  the  alert,  and  for  his  spirit  a  great  favorite 
with  all  who  knew  him.  He  was  an  adopted  mem- 
ber of  Sanchez's  family,  and  rejoiced  in  the  name 
of  Juan  de  Dios  (John  of  Grod),  though  commonly 
known  by  the  familiar  and  somewhat  equivocal  sobri- 
quet of  "  Guacho"  (a  foundling,  or  child  of  doubtfiil 
origin). 

Sanchez,  or,  as  he  was  generally  called,  Don  Pan- 
ta  (the  Indian  contraction  for  Pantaleon,  his  Christian 
name),  improved  on  acquaintance.  He  was  a  large, 
well-formed  man,  between  forty- five  and  fifty  years  of 
age,  with  a  fine  eye,  Roman  nose,  heavy  chin,  and  a 
missive  head  covered  with  curling  black  hair  sprinkled 
with  gray.  Though  without  much  education,  except 
such  as  he  had  been  able  to  pick  up,  he  was  intelli- 
gent, inquiring,  and  communicative — proud,  though 
without  reserve,  and  highly  imbued  with  a  certain 
kind  of  honor,  which  the  nature  of  his  former  life  had 
rather  tended  to  foster  than  to  destroy,  for  in  his 
younger  days  he  had  been,  if  not  a  freebooter,  the 
next  thing  to  it. 

His  father,  at  the  breaking  out  of  the  Chilian  revo- 
lution, held  a  commission  in  the  royal  army,  and  when 
the  cause  of  the  crown  became  desperate,  with  many 
others  fled  across  the  mountains  and  joined  Pincheira, 
a  Spaniard  who  had  collected  a  band  of  royalists  and 

I  Indians  for  the  purpose  of  harassing  the  republi- 
cans, in  hopes  that  the  revolution  might  finally  be 
quelled. 
The  original  object  of  Pincheira  and  his  followers 
was  honorable,  and  their  conduct,  dui-ing  the  continu- 
ance of  the  war,  to  a  certain  extent  justifiable;  but 
H* 


178  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

he  was  weak-minded,  and  unable  to  control  the  law- 
less men  who  flocked  around  his  standard.  On  the 
declaration  of  peace,  fearing  treachery,  or  perhaps  hop- 
ing that,  by  protracting  the  struggle,  the  royal  cause 
might  be  revived,  he  refused  to  lay  down  his  arms,  and 
was  declared  an  outlaw. 

His  camp  immediately  became  the  rendezvous  of 
all  the  desperate  characters  w^ho,  on  the  establishment 
of  order,  were  obliged  to  fly  from  the  punishment  due 
for  crimes  committed  during  the  troubled  times  of  war. 
These  desperadoes,  acknowledging  no  authority,  and 
obeying  no  law  except  their  own  unbridled  passions, 
were  for  many  years  the  scourge  of  the  Chilian  frontier. 
Without  the  hope  of  quarter,  they  gave  none :  like  the 
Ishmaelites,  their  hand  was  against  every  man  and 
every  man's  hand  against  them ;  like  the  winds  they 
moved  about,  with  their  flying  tents,  homeless  and  un- 
traceable. 

Sweeping  through  the  gorges  of  the  Cordilleras,  in 
the  silence  of  the  night  they  would  pom*  down  upon 
defenseless  hamlets,  sparing  neither  age  nor  sex, 
unless  to  carry  off  some  tender  child  to  slavery,  in 
hope  of  future  ransom,  or  to  consign  some  helpless 
female  to  a  fate  more  horrible  than  slavery  or  death. 
Before  the  tardy  troops  could  be  gathered  to  repel  their 
attack,  laden  with  spoil,  they  would  regain  the  fast- 
nesses of  the  mountains  or  the  trackless  expanse  of 
the  pampas. 

So  great  was  the  terror  inspired  by  these  sudden 
incursions  among  the  people  living  near  the  mount- 
ain passes,  that  to  the  present  day,  though  every  trace 
of  the  formidable  band  lias  disappeared,  many  a  Chil- 


PIN  C  HEIR  A.  179 

ian  mother  hushes  her  crying  babe  with  the  dreaded 
name  of  Pincheira ! 

The  father  of  Pantaleon,  while  serving  under  Pin- 
cheira, learned  the  language  of  the  Indians,  and  gain- 
ed such  an  unbounded  power  over  them,  that  he  be- 
came generally  known  upon  the  frontiers  as  "El  E,ey 
Sanchez"  (King  Sanchez).  He  was  finally  captured, 
and  summarily  put  to  death  by  Coronel  Godoi.  Many 
others  were  taken  and  executed  upon  the  spot ;  and  not 
long  after  the  band  was  entirely  broken  up,  princi- 
pally through  the  influence  of  Pantaleon  Sanchez,  who 
succeeded  in  obtaining  favorable  terms  for  most  of 
those  implicated.  He  himself,  in  consideration  for 
this  service,  was  taken  into  the  employment  of  the 
government  as  interpreter.  Having  spent  fifteen 
years  of  his  youth  among  the  Indians,  and  been  in 
constant  communication  with  them  ever  since,  he 
spoke  their  language  as  fluently  as  his  own,  and 
was  in  every  way  conversant  with  their  manners  and 
customs. 

The  pastures  along  our  road  were  black  and  charred, 
having  been  recently  burnt  over,  in  large  tracts,  by 
the  Indians,  in  order  to  produce  a  fresh  growth  of 
herbage  on  the  fields  dried  up  by  the  summer  heats. 
Owing  to  the  late  rain  the  new  grass  was  sprouting 
vigorously,  and  the  gi'ound  was  gayly  sprinkled  with 
little  tulip-shaped  flowers  of  a  blood-red  hue ;  we 
also  saw  great  quantities  of  a  coarse  prickly  plant, 
which  is  regarded  as  excellent  fodder  for  horned 
cattle. 

In  passing  a  little  trickling  rill,  I  noticed  a  bed, 
some  six  inches  thick,  of  scoriaceous  lava,  much  re- 


180  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

sembling  the  recent  deposits  at  Aiituco.  Near  the 
same  spot  was  also  a  small  hillock,  composed  appar- 
ently of  the  same  material :  in  each  case  the  over- 
lying covering  of  soil  was  but  a  few  inches  thick. 
Further  to  the  south  we  subsequently  noticed  simi- 
lar strata  in  passing  many  of  the  small  brooks. 
As  there  were  no  volcanic  vents  nearer  than  the 
main  chain  of  the  Andes,  these  deposits  struck  me 
as  being  interesting.  They  are  probably  very  com- 
mon, but  it  is  only  where  the  soil  has  been  washed 
away  by  action  of  the  streams  that  they  are  exposed 
to  view. 

^  Near  a  small  stream  called  Chumalco,  we  stopped 
at  the  house  of  a  silversmith — a  rude  tinker,  who 
manufactured  spurs  and  other  articles  for  the  Indians 
and  traders.  His  workshop  was  a  small  shanty,  and 
all  his  tools  were  of  the  rudest  description.  His 
wares,  though  rough  and  uncouth,  boasted  a  sort  of 
barbaric  magnificence,  and  were  suited  to  the  taste  of 
his  customers ;  for  the  Indians  not  only  are  suspi- 
cious of  all  bright  and  polished  work,  but  they  also 
have  their  own  ideas  of  fashion,  which  occasionally 
varies ;  and  in  buying  a  pair  of  spurs,  they  are  as  fas- 
tidious about  the  TYiode  as  any  French  beUe  in  the 
purchase  of  a  bonnet.  At  the  same  time  they  have  a 
supreme  contempt  for  any  thing  that  is  not  what  it 
pretends  to  be,  and  the  poorest  "hueiii,"  with  an  iron 
spur  on  his  heel,  or  with  none  at  all,  would  not  accept 
a  plated  or  German  silver  pair ;  he  would  feel  himself 
insulted  by  the  offer. 

Besides  bits,  spurs,  stirrups,  head-stalls,  and  sad- 
dle ornaments  of  silver,  the  Indians  use  a  great  many 


THE     SILVERSMITHo  181 


INDIAN    SPUR. 


ear-rings,  breast-pins,  and  other  trinkets  of  the  same 
metal:  indeed,  it  is  the  only  metal  which  they  use 
for  ornamental  purposes.  Gold  is  never  seen  in  their 
possession.  There  exists  a  common  opinion  that  they 
make  no  use  of  gold,  because  they  regard  it  as  the 
cause  of  all  their  wars  with  the  Spaniards,  and  wish 
to  conceal  its  existence  in  their  country ;  but  Sanchez 
thought  the  reasons  which  influence  them  to  be  very 
different,  namely,  the  difficulty  of  procuring  it  in  any 
part  of  their  territory  without  great  labor,  and  their 
inability  either  to  work  it  into  the  desired  forms  or 
test  its  purity.  If  manufactured  abroad,  they  would  be 
unwilling  to  purchase  it ;  for  they  will  not  buy  arti- 
cles of  silver  even,  unless  made  by  some  Indian  smith, 
or  by  one  who  lives  in  their  midst. 

The  amount  of  silver  consumed  in  the  manufacture 
of  trinkets  for  the  Indian  trade  is  large ;  and  as  it  is 
drawn  entirely  from  the  currency  of  the  country,  there 


182  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

results  a  great  scarcity  of  small  coin  in  all  the  frontier 
provinces.  If  we  suppose  tAvo  or  three  thousand  peo- 
ple to  be  engaged  in  trading  with  the  Indians,  and 
estimate  that  each  trader  disposes  annually  of  twenty 
or  thirty  dollars,  it  will  be  readily  seen  that  the  ab- 
straction of  such  an  amount  in  hard  dollars,  halves, 
and  quarters  fr*om  districts  neither  populous  nor  rich, 
is  calculated  to  produce  considerable  inconvenience. 

A  league  farther  on,  we  came  to  another  brook 
called  Malven,  near  which  live  a  number  of  scattered 
" Christianos"  {i.e.  Chilenos).  Here,  also,  there  re- 
sided at  the  time  an  aged  Dominican  friar,  who  for 
several  years  had  been  attempting  to  convert  the  In- 
dians. Though  much  reverenced,  as  priests  always 
are,  for  his  sacred  character,  and  respected  as  a  bene- 
factor— for  by  some  knowledge  of  medicine,  he  had 
made  himself  extremely  useful — he  probably  could 
not  boast  a  single  convert,  and  was  even  regarded 
with  suspicion. 

In  vain  he  had  endeavored  to  gain  permission  for 
the  introduction  of  a  mission,  and  the  establishment 
of  a  convent  of  his  brethren.  The  answer  he  re- 
ceived from  the  Indians  was  characteristic,  and 
proved  that  former  experience  had  not  been  entirely 
forgotten : 

"Father,"  they  said,  "whenever  you  wish  to  come 
among  us,  you  shall  be  welcome  to  food  and  shelter ; 
but  if  your  brothers  come,  they  will  need  land  upon 
which  to  build  a  house ;  they  must  eat,  and  we  shall 
be  obliged  to  give  them  cattle ;  they  will  then  need 
more  land  for  their  cattle ;  other  Christians  will  come 
to    live    with    vour    brethren ;    thev,    too,    will    need 


THE     MISSIONARY. 


183 


houses,  cattle,  and  lands  ;  thus  you  will  become  rich, 
and  we  shall  become  poor,  and  be  driven  out!" 

Beyond  Malven  the  Indians  became  more  numer- 
ous, and  we  met  many  upon  the  road.  They  ex- 
pressed considerable  surprise  at  my  appearance ;  but 
they  were  all  acquainted  with  "Panta,"  as  they 
called  Sanchez,  and  readily  credited  the  account  he 
gave  of  me.  There  was  but  one  exception,  a  boy 
about  twelve  or  thirteen  years  old,  who  had  lived 
among  the  Chilenos  sufficiently  to  learn  something  of 
their  language  and  customs ;  he  insisted,  from  the 
fact  of  my  wearing  a  broad-brimmed  felt  hat,  that  I 
must  be  a  friar  in  disguise,  and  made  a  number  of 
remarks  about  the  "pichi  patiru"  (little  priest),  that 
caused  a  great  deal  of  merriment.  This  boy  had  just 
captured,  in  a  neighboring  stream,  a  "buillin,"  a  spe- 
cies of  castor,  from  which  he  was  about  stripping  the 
skin,  which  he  readily  bartered  for  a  Jew's-harp,  and 
promised  to  have  dried  and  dressed  for  me  on  our 
return. 

On  the  road  we  met  a  party  of  squaws,  the  first 
whom  I  had  fairly  seen.  Their  long  hair  was  drip- 
ping, for  they  had  just  been  enjoying  a  bath;  and 
over  their  backs,  slung  by  a  band  passing  over  the 
forehead,  they  bore  large  earthenware  jars  filled  with 
cool  water,  and  covered  with  branches  of  fragrant 
mint.  !Most  of  them  led  little  round-bellied  children 
by  the  hand,  and  one  or  two  had  papooses  strung 
over  their  backs.  They  were  decked  out  in  all  their 
finery,  with  a  profusion  of  silver  ornaments  and  beads 
of  all  colors,  and  really  presented  a  picturesque  ap- 
pearance, though  little  could  be  said  of  their  beauty. 


184  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

The  Indians  (especially  the  women)  residing  near 
rivers  are  much  addicted  to  bathing — a  redeeming 
feature  in  their  otherwise  filthy  habits. 

In  the  evening  we  stopped  at  the  house  of  an  old 
chief  named  Anticheo  (The  Albatross  of  the  Sun). 
Drawing  up  at  a  respectful  distance  before  the  cros;^ 
bar,  which  is  set  up  in  firont  of  every  house  as  a  bar- 
rier, we  waited  for  several  minutes  until  the  chief 
came  out  and  saluted  us,  one  after  the  other.  He  then 
invited  us  to  dismount,  but  we  declined,  and  after  a 
short  conversation  made  our  way  to  a  neighboring 
clump  of  apple-trees,  under  whose  branches  we  pro- 
posed spending  the  night,  in  preference  to  exposing 
ourselves  to  the  vermin  in  the  house. 

No  sooner  had  we  encamped  than  we  were  besieged 
by  a  crowd  of  men  and  boys,  drawn  together  by  curi- 
osity, and  possibly  by  the  hope  of  some  present  or 
the  chance  of  pilfering.  They  were  mostly  dressed  in 
the  "  chiripa,"  a  garment  not  unlike  the  poncho  in 
shape,  which  is  wound  round  the  person  from  the 
breast  to  the  feet,  and  is  confined  at  the  waist  by  a 
belt.  Some  wore  ponchos  also,  and  a  few  had  on 
shirts,  generally  the  worse  for  wear  and  dirt.  One 
brawny  fellow,  though  shirtless,  had  got  himself  into 
a  very  small  vest,  while  he  sported  an  old,  greasy 
cap,  adorned  with  a  tarnished  silver  band,  in  lieu  of 
the  cotton  hankerchief,  or  more  national  red  or  blue 
fillet,  which  is  generally  worn  to  confine  the  hair. 

They  exliibited  none  of  that  moroseness  and  stoical 
indifference  which  we  are  apt  to  attribute  to  all  In- 
dians ;  but,  on  the  contrary,  they  were  lively,  ta<lka- 
tive,  and  inquisitive  in  the  extreme.     They  left  no- 


MAPUCHE     ELOQUENCE.  185 

thing  unexamined,  scrutinizing  closely  even  my  hat, 
pantaloons,  and  boots,  which  they  felt,  handled,  and 
pulled  about,  with  exclamations  of  surprise  accom- 
panied by  laughter  and  jokes. 

Soon  the  old  chief  joined  the  party  and  entered  into 
conversation.  He  had  much  to  ask  in  regard  to  the 
feelings  and  intentions  of  the  government  toward  the 
Indians,  and  he  seemed  to  have  many  misgivings 
about  the  proposed  visit  of  President  Montt  to  the 
southern  provinces  •  he  was  fearful  that  it  boded  no 
good,  and  was  apparently  much  relieved  by  the  ex- 
planations which  Sanchez  gave.  The  amount  of  def- 
erence shown  him  did  not  seem  to  be  great ;  and  I 
was  rather  surprised  by  the  apparent  want  of  respect 
for  superiors  observable,  especially  among  the  boys, 
who  were  under  no  restraint,  joining  in  the  conversa- 
tion, and  expressing  their  opinions  in  a  manner  which 
would  have  done  credit  to  that  precocious  youth 
"Young  America"  himself. 

Duiing  our  talk  a  courier  was  announced  as  coming 
from  Maiiin,  in  regard  to  some  robberies  that  had  late- 
ly taken  place. 

The  messenger,  without  leaving  the  saddle,  deliv- 
ered his  errand  m  a  monotonous  sing-song  tone,  ac- 
companied by  occasional  grunts  and  the  frequent  rep- 
etition of  such  words  as,  "piu,"  "pi,"  "pioe"  ("I 
say,"  "said  I,"  "said  he"):  he  was  listened  to  by 
the  chief,  standing,  while  all  the  rest  observed  a  re- 
spectful silence.  The  answer  was  returned  in  the 
same  monotonous  manner,  without  any  gesticulations 
or  inflections  of  the  voice — very  much  as  school-boys 
repeat  lessons  which  they  have  learned  by  rote. 


186  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

But  though  the  speakers  appeared  to  me  to  go 
through  their  parts  in  a  very  humdrum  style,  San- 
chez said  that  they  both  had  the  reputation  of  being 
orators,  and  were  much  admired  for  the  purity  of  their 
diction. 

The  Mapuches  have  their  own  ideas  of  eloquence, 
which  is  much  cultivated  as  the  surest  road  to  dis- 
tinction ;  for  any  young  man,  whatever  his  rank,  if 
possessing  fluency  of  speech  and  a  retentive  mem- 
ory, may  aspire  to  a  high  position.  The  chiefs  al- 
ways select,  as  their  immediate  attendants  and  mes- 
sengers, those  youths  who  are  capable  not  only  of 
clearly  expressing  their  own  views,  but  of  reporting 
exactly  the  words  of  others,  which  is  highly  import- 
ant in  the  transmission  of  oral  communications.  These 
messengers,  by  associating  with  the  chief  men  and 
speaking  in  the  national  assemblies,  gain  great  in- 
fluence, and  often  supersede  those  who  by  birth  are 
their  superiors. 

There  have  not  been  wanting  Spanish  writers  who 
have  highly  eulogized  the  eloquence  of  the  Arauca- 
nians ;  but,  tried  by  classical  models,  they  do  not 
deserve  the  exaggerated  praise  they  have  received, 
and  fall  far  short  of  our  North  American  Indians 
both  in  the  matter  and  delivery  of  their  speeches. 
Could  the  truth  be  known,  we  should  probably  dis- 
cover that  both  the  Araucanians  and  the  Mohawks 
owe  much  of  their  oratorical  fame  to  a  certain  tenden- 
cy to  "highfalluting,"  which  all  interpreters  seem  to 
have. 

A  timely  hint  that  we  had  not  yet  dined,  wa^  re- 
sponded to  by  our  host,  who  ordered  a  sheep  to  be 


OUK     SUP  PEE.  187 

killed  for  our  use.  Tlie  animal  was  tied  up  by  the 
hind  legs  to  a  bough,  and  his  throat  was  cut ;  a  wo- 
man stood  by  with  a  wooden  bowl  to  catch  the  blood, 
into  which  she  threw  a  handful  of  salt  to  hasten  co- 
agulation ;  another  brought  a  basket,  in  which  she 
received  the  entrails  and  carried  them  off  to  the  house 
— for  both  the  blood  and  the  entrails  are  eaten  by 
these  people,  the  former  raw  or  stewed,  the  latter 
made  up  into  tripe.  The  skin  was  stripped  off,  the 
sheep  divided  along  the  spine  from  tail  to  head,  and 
one-half,  spitted  upon  a  sharp  stick,  was  soon  roast- 
ing over  the  blazing  fire. 

The  chief  then  rose,  bidding  us  good  night — an 
example  that  was  followed  by  the  rest,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  few  loafers  who  hung  round  in  expecta- 
tion of  sharing  our  meal. 

The  green  sod  was  our  only  table-cloth,  and  circling 
round  the  steaming  meat,  we  hacked  it  to  pieces  with 
our  jack-knives,  handing  a  rib  to  each  of  the  hangers- 
on,  who  sat  by  in  silence  expecting  their  portion. 

To  our  feast  was  added  a  jug  of  something  called 
"  mudai" — a  kind  of  fermented  liquor,  rather  muddy 
but  not  unpleasant  to  the  taste.  As  I  was  lifting  it 
to  my  lips  Sanchez  cried  out,  jestingly, 

"  Take  care,  Senor !  you  know  not  what  you  are 
drinking!" 

But  contenting  myself  with  the  thought,  that 
"  where  ignorance  is  bliss  'tis  folly  to  be  wise,"  I 
took  a  long  pull  at  the  jug  and  passed  it  on.  Had  I 
seen,  as  I  afterward  did,  the  process  of  manufacturing 
this  beverage,  it  probably  would  never  have  reached 
my  lips,  much  less  my  stomach. 


188  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

So  soon  as  our  visitors  withdrew — which  they  did 
when  nothing  remained  to  eat — ^we  made  our  beds  of 
saddles  and  ponchos,  under  the  apple-trees,  and  re- 
tired, after  stowing  away  every  thing  as  securely  as 
possible;  "for,"  said  our  guide,  "these  fellows  will 
steal  the  tongue  out  of  your  head  if  you  sleep  with 
your  mouth  open!" 

Early  in  the  morning  we  were  favored  with  more 
visitors.  Among  others  came  an  old  man  who  spoke 
Spanish  tolerably  well.  He  said  that  he  had  known 
my  father  Yega,  and  had  a  great  many  questions  to 
ask  about  him,  some  of  which  it  puzzled  me  no  little 
to  answer,  as  I  had  never  seen  the  old  gentleman 
whose  name  I  bore.  He  then  inquired  about  the 
President,  his  character,  and  designs  in  regard  to  the 
Indians.  Being  tolerably  well  satisfied  on  these  points, 
he  went  on  to  ask  if  His  Excellency  was  powerful  and 
wealthy ;  and,  as  a  still  further  test  of  importance, 
wished  to  know  the  number  of  his  wives. 

"  He  has  but  one,"  I  answered. 

"  Hue!"  cried  the  astonished  savage,  "only  one?" 
holding  up  a  single  finger,  that  there  might  be  no 
mistake. 

"Yes;  only  one." 

"  He  must  be  very  poor,  is  he  not  ?" 

"Why  so?"  I  asked. 

"  Because  even  I,  who  am  poor,  have  two ;  many 
of  our  '  ghelmenes'  (gentlemen)  have  five ;  and  the 
President,  who  is  a  great  *  cazioue'  (chief),  ought  to 
have  at  least  ten;"  and  he  counted  on  his  fingers 
"  Quiii^,  epu,  quechu,  mari"  (1,  2,  5,  10),  as  if  tb  de- 
termine more  fully  the  relative  degrees  of  importance. 


a( 

I 


DIGNITY     AND     WIVES.  189 

It  seemed  that  he  could  hardly  reconcile  himself  to 
the  idea  that  he  was  not  doubly  as  important  a  per- 
sonage as  the  President. 

The  explanation  that  Christians  have  but  one  wife 
apiece  did  not  satisfy  him.  He  could  see  no  harm  in 
having  more ;  for  his  people  had  always  lived  happily 
with  their  numerous  wives,  and  he  argued  that  such 
would  not  be  the  case  if  the  practice  were  sinful  and 
displeasing  to  the  Great  Spirit.  When  I  recalled  the 
polygamic  tendencies  of  the  wise  men  of  old,  I  could 
not  but  think  that  my  friend  argued  well,  "  according 
to  his  light." 

This  has  ever  been  the  great  stumbling-block  with 
the  missionaries  (who  may  be  said  to  have  accom- 
plished nothing  with  the  Mapuches),  for  they  have 
always  commenced  by  an  onslauglit  upon  the  national 
polygamy — the  most  deeply  rooted  and  cherished  of 
their  social  evils.  Such  a  course  is  honest,  but  its 
policy  may  be  questioned ;  for  were  they  to  leave  this 
reform  as  the  last,  instead  of  endeavoring  to  make  it 
the  first,  and  not  attack  the  stronghold  until  they  have 
acquired  sufficient  influence  to  destroy  minor  evils  in  de- 
tail, much  more  might  be  accomplished  in  the  end  ;  for 
Buch  an  institution  can  only  be  gradually  abolished. 

After  a  hearty  breakfast  we  rode  up  to  the  chief's 
ouse,  made  some  presents  of  indigo  and  beads  to  his 
wives,  distributed  a  few  handkerchiefs  and  Jew's-harps 
among  his  children,  and  taking  a  formal  leave,  de- 
parted, accompanied  by  one  of  his  nephews,  a  rather 
handsome  and  intelligent  young  man,  wlio,  from  mo- 
tives of  friendship  for  "Panta,"  agreed  to  make  one 
of  our  party. 


190  THE     ARAUCANIAKS. 

Crossing  the  Renayco,  a  small  stream,  we  called  at 
the  house  of  Calbucoi,  one  of  the  most  powerful  chiefs 
in  this  neighborhood,  but  he  was  not  at  home.  Pass- 
ing on,  we  met  him  in  the  fields  trading  with  some 
half  breeds.  He  was  a  corpulent,  thick-set  old  gen- 
tleman, with  a  big  head  and  a  pleasant,  good-natured 
face.  His  nephew,  one  Railemu,  accompanied  him — 
an  unprepossessing  young  man  whom  we  did  not  wish 
to  meet,  since  his  knowledge  of  Spanish,  which  he 
spoke  fluently,  might  have  enabled  him  to  detect  that 
I  was  a  foreigner. 

The  whole  party  were  collected  round  a  poncho 
spread  upon  the  ground,  on  which  piles  of  dollars  and 
silver  spurs  were  glistening  as  a  tempting  lure  for  the 
owner  of  many  herds.  But  the  old  chief  was  wary 
and  incredulous.  Carefully  he  tried  each  article, 
smelled  of  it,  tasted  it,  rung  it,  to  test  the  purity 
of  the  metal;  and  lastly,  pulling  out  from  his  girdle 
a  balance,  with  a  beam  some  six  inches  long  of  bam- 
boo, and  scales  of  leather,  he  proceeded  to  weigh  each 
one  separately,  using  some  silver  dollars  which  he 
carried  about  his  person  as  standards.  The  nephew 
was  no  less  cautious,  and  both  seemed  well  posted  up 
in  the  tricks  of  the  trade. 

Sanchez  did  not  wish  to  purchase  any  cattle  here, 
and  rejoiced  that  the  "  powers  that  be"  were  so  much 
engrossed  with  the  important  matter  of  buying  a  pair 
of  spurs  as  to  take  no  notice  of  our  movements.  We 
gave  the  potent  Calbucoi  a  flaming  red  cotton  hand 
kerchief,  glorious  with  yellow  flowers,  as  a  kind  of  trib- 
ute for  the  privilege  of  traveling  through  his  domin- 
ions, and  hurried  on. 


iin  'iiii'i.',„i/  ''T  7'</','m:/  ''    '  '^^^ 


LEVYING     TRIBUTE. 


193 


This  system  of  levying  tribute  is  universal  among 
the  petty  chiefs,  but  fortunately  their  demands  are  so 
very  moderate  as  to  make  the  principle  hardly  worth 
quarreling  about.  An  English  gentleman  of  my  ac- 
quaintance, long  resident  in  Chili,  related  an  amusing 
adventure  growing  out  of  this  custom. 

While  traveling  he  had  occasion  to  pass  through 
the  district  of  a  native  chief,  and  was  surprised  at 
being  stopped  on  the  road  with  a  demand  for  tribute. 
Falling  back  upon  his  rights  as  an  Englishman,  he 
refiised  compliance  with  so  unjust  a  demand,  declar- 
ing that  being  merely  a  traveler,  not  a  trader,  such  a 
molestation  was   contrary  to  the  comity  of  nations. 
His  guide  counseled  compliance,  the  chief  insisted; 
but  he  absolutely  refused,  and  was  turning  to  pursue 
his  journey  when  a  young  hotspur  sprang  into  a  cab- 
in, seized  a  horn,  and  applying  it  to  his  lips,  blew  a 
^blast,  terrible  as  ever  was  blown  upon  a  ram's  horn : 
istantly  the   hills    around   echoed  with   responsive 
)lasts  from   sympathizing  rams'  horns.     The  alarm 
ras  sounded  in  every  cabin :  in  a  moment  there  was 
arming  in  hot  haste,  and  a  thick  gathering  of  wild 
lorsemen  rushing  from  every  direction,  brandishing 
leir  long  lances  for  the  fight. 

When  John  Bull's  back  is  faMy  up,  he  is  not  to 
)e  bullied,  and  there  was  an  immediate  cocking  of  pis- 
)ls,  when  the  guide,  running  up  in  an  agony  of  de- 
spair, exclaimed, 

"For  God's  sake,  Senor,  what  are  you  about? 
rive  them  something,  if  it  is  only  a  pocket  handJcer- 
\iefr 

The  absurdity  of  his  position  struck  the  English- 
I 


194  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

man  immediately ;  and  laughing  at  his  own  hastiness, 
he  gave  the  enraged  chieftain  a  jack-knife. 

Peace  was  restored  on  the  spot — the  Cazique  was 
delighted,  swore  eternal  friendship  for  the  munificent 
stranger,  apologized  for  the  detention,  and  insisted 
that  some  of  the  bravest  warriors  of  the  tribe  should 
escort  him,  as  a  guard  of  honor,  for  several  miles  upon 
his  way. 


CHAPTER    XVII. 

Mapuche  Etiquette. — The  formal  Introduction. — The  Itch. — Horse- 
manship.— Indian  Manners.  —  Commercial  Honesty.  —  Trees. — 
Burning  the  Grass. — The  "Island  of  Heaven."  —  Domestic  Ar- 
rangement.— Dogs  and  their  Pri\ileges. 

OUE  next  stoppage  was  at  the  house  of  another 
chief  named  Kilal. 

As  before,  we  drew  up  ceremoniously  before  the 
cross-bar  and  waited  until  the  master  of  the  house 
came  out  and  saluted  us  with  the  usual  greeting—^ 
"J/aW,  mari, 2>ehi r  (literally  "a  hundred,  brother!" 
— probably  a  contraction  of  "a  hundred  welcomes!" 
or  some  other  primitive  salutation).  He  then  called 
to  his  wives,  two  of  whom,  after  saluting  us  with 
^''  JEmy  ef  ("Is  that  you?")  the  usual  female  greet- 
ing, proceeded  to  sweep  the  inclosure,  which  was 
shaded  by  a  rude  shed  of  canes,  and  spread  sheep- 
skins upon  the  ground  for  our  accommodation.  This 
being  done,  we  were  invited  to  dismount. 

Entering  the   inclosure  we    squatted   cross-legged 

I  upon  the  sheep-skins,  while  our  Indian  traveling 
companion  began  the  formal  discourse  which  forms 
one  of  the  most  striking  features  of  the  Mapuche  eti- 
quette. It  is  but  the  interchange  of  set  compliments ; 
but  the  omission  of  it,  except  between  near  neighbors 
or  intimate  friends,  would  be  deemed  unpardonable. 


196  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

If  the  guest  is  a  stranger,  the  host  begins  by  ad- 
dressing him  with  "I  don't  know  you,  brother!"  or, 
"I  have  never  seen  you  before!"  Thereupon  the 
stranger  mentions  his  own  name  and  residence,  and 
goes  on  to  ask  the  host  about  himself,  his  health,  and 
that  of  his  father,  mother,  wives,  and  children ;  about 
his  lands,  crops,  cattle,  and  flocks ;  the  chief  of  the 
district,  the  neighbors,  their  wives,  children,  crops, 
etc.,  are  next  inquired  about :  have  there  been  any 
disturbances,  diseases,  deaths,  or  accidents  ?  If  the 
responses  given  are  favorable,  the  questioner  goes  on 
to  express  his  happiness,  and  moralizes  to  the  effect 
that  health,  wealth,  and  friendship  are  great  blessings, 
for  which  God  should  be  thanked.  If,  on  the  contrary, 
the  answers  should  convey  bad  news,  he  condoles  with 
the  afflicted,  and  philosophizes  that  misfortunes  should 
be  borne  with  equanimity,  since  man  can  not  always 
avoid  evil. 

The  guest  having  finished,  the  host  commences,  in 
turn,  to  ask  all  the  same  questions,  making  such  com- 
ments as  the  answers  received  may  demand. 

This  formality  occupies  ten  or  fifteen  minutes.  The 
questions  and  answers  are  recited  (by  rote)  in  a  low, 
monotonous  voice,  with  a  sing-song  tone  not  unlike 
the  saying  of  the  rosary,  or  the  chanting  of  firiars.  At 
the  end  of  each  sentence,  if  the  last  word  ends  in  a 
vowel,  the  voice  is  raised  to  a  shout ;  but  should  the 
final  letter  be  a  consonant,  it  is  rounded  off  with  a 
nasal  grunt.  The  listener  expresses  his  satisfaction, 
occasionally,  by  a  sound  between  a  grunt  and  a  groan, 
or  indicates  surprise  by  a  long-drawn  '-' HueP''  'With 
these  exceptions,  he  never  interrupts  until  the  speaker 


FORMAL     INTRODUCTION.  197 

gives  notice  bj  a  peculiar  cadence  of  the  voice  that  he 
has  said  his  say.  During  this  palaver  the  speakers 
often  do  not  look  at  each  other,  and  frequently  even 
sit  with  their  backs  turned  to  one  another. 

These  compliments  once  gone  through  with,  all  for- 
mality is  dropped,  and  conversation  commences  in  an 
easy  and  natural  manner. 

The  remains  of  this  custom  may  still  be  traced 
among  the  Chilenos  of  the  lower  classes  in  the  interm- 
inable and  unvarying  questions  and  answers  always 
heard  when  they  visit  or  meet  casually.  Again  the 
same  thing  may  be  noticed  in  the  formal  "  recado" 
which  a  servant  always  delivers  when  sent  on  an 
errand;  as,  "Muy  buenos  dies,  Seiior !  como  esta  su 
merced!  Manda  decir  mi  Senorita  Dona  Marequita, 
que  como  esta  la  sulded  de  su  merced  ?  que  se  alegra 
mucho  que  no  tenga  su  merced  novedad  ninguna,"  etc. 
When  this  introduction  is  ended,  but  not  till  then,  he 
goes  on  and  delivers  his  message ;  and  if  interrupted, 
he  will,  as  like  as  not,  start  and  go  over  it  all  anew. 

Such  customs  are  apt  to  throw  an  Anglo-Saxon  into 
a  fidget;  but,  springing  as  they  do  originally  fi:om 
kind-heartedness,  and  indicating  a  friendly  disposition, 
they  should  command  indulgence,  if  not  admiration. 

Seeing  that  we  were  tired  of  sitting  in  one  position, 
the  chief  ordered  for  our  use  some  stools  that  were  cov- 
ered with  sheep-skins,  and  placed  them  for  us  to  rest 
our  elbows  upon.  At  the  same  time  one  of  the  women 
appeared,  and  placed  before  each  of  us  a  dish  of  mut- 
ton broth.  The  broth  was  very  rich  and  excellent ; 
but  eating  in  a  reclining  position  I  found  rather  awk- 
ward;    and  though  the   bowl  was  well  enough,   the 


198  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

wooden  spoon  baffled  me  completely,  for  its  form  was 
such  that  I  could  not  accommodate  my  mouth  to  it. 

My  clumsiness  created  a  good  deal  of  mirth ;  and 
after  greasing  my  whole  face  and  filling  my  mustache 
with  broth,  I  was  obliged  to  give  up  the  wooden  spoon 
and  resort  to  my  own,  which,  with  knife  and  fork,  I 
always  carried  in  my  saddle-bags. 

It  added  nothing  to  my  appetite  to  see  several  naked 
children  playing  about,  with  blotches  all  over  their 
bodies,  which  they  were  continually  scratching;  the 
effect,  as  I  learned,  of  the  itch.  Had  I  known  the 
general  prevalence  of  this  disgusting  disease  among 
the  famed  sons  of  Arauco,  it  might  have  deterred  me 
firom  my  journey ;  but  the  garrulous  Ercilla  had  for- 
gotten to  describe  this  "peculiar  institution;"  and 
though  I  had  heard  it  spoken  of  by  the  Chilenos,  I 
did  not  realize  that,  as  I  afterward  became  convinced, 
there  is  in  the  whole  nation  scarcely  a  man,  woman, 
.  or  child,  entirely  unscathed  by  this  revolting  affliction. 

Among  other  medicines  I  carried  a  specific  for  this 
unpleasant  companion;  but  I  depended  principally 
upon  a  free  use  of  soap  and  water,  and  the  continual 
wearing  of  thick  gloves  to  protect  the  hands,  which 
are  most  exposed  to  the  contagion :  with  these  precau- 
tions, though  several  times  badly  frightened,  I  escaped. 

The  itch  is  national  with  these  people,  and  must 
have  existed  among  them  from  time  immemorial,  as  a 
natural  consequence  of  their  mode  of  life.  It  is  said 
that,  long  before  the  true  nature  of  the  disease  was 
known  in  Europe,  the  ^Mapuches  had  a  method  of 
picking  out  from  the  skin  the  minute  animalcule  by 
which  the  irritation  is  caused. 


I 


HORSEMANSHIP.  199 

There  are  certain  little  inconveniences  and  draw- 
backs connected  with  what  poets  and  philosophers  are 
pleased  to  call  a  state  of  nature,  which  only  they  can 
appreciate  who  have  seen  man  when  farthest  removed 
from  the  amenities  of  civilized  life.  Doubtless  we 
should  lose  much  of  our  respect  and  admiration  for 
the  patriarchs  of  old,  were  we  more  intimately  ac- 
quainted with  their  domestic  life. 

After  the  siesta,  Kilal  accompanied  us  across  the 
Nininco,  a  small  stream,  to  the  boundless  fields  where 
his  herds  of  cattle  were  roaming  unrestrained.  Half  a 
dozen  "huenis"  were  in  attendance,  well  mounted,  and 
the  chase  soon  became  exciting.  Nothing  could  be 
more  picturesque  than  these  young  savages  scouring 
over  the  plain,  their  long  hair  floating  in  the  wind, 
and  their  lassos  whirring  through  the  air  as  they 
dashed  after  the  startled  animals. 

These  Indians  are  fine  horsemen,  seeming,  as  they 
course  along,  almost  to  form  part  of  the  animals  they, 
bestride.  Their  dexterity  with  the  lasso  is  admirable  ; 
and  it  is  wonderful  to  see  the  apparent  ease  with  which 
they  select  any  particular  animal  of  the  herd,  separate 
him  from  his  companions,  and  capture  him  ;  but  some- 
times a  fleet  horse,  grown  wary  by  experience,  may 
be  seen  baffling  all  their  manoeuvres,  and  leading  them 
a  long  chase  far  over  the  plains. 

The  ]\Iapuche  saddle  is  extremely  simple,  being 
formed  of  a  rude  wooden  tree,  under  which  a  few 
skins  are  placed,  and  over  it  is  thrown  a  saddle-cloth 
of  thick  leather.  The  stirrup,  when  not  of  silver,  is 
generally  a  piece  of  cane  bent  into  a  triangle,  just 
large  enough  to  admit  the  great  toe ;  the  bit,  like  that 


200  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

used  by  the  Chilenos,  is  very  heavy  and  powerful; 
the  reins  are  made  of  raw  hide  firmly  twisted,  or  of 
horse-skin  ingeniously  hraided,  and  sometimes  inter- 
woven with  threads  of  silver. 


MAPUCHE    SADDLE-TREE,   SADDLE-CLOTH,  AND   STIRRUPS. 

Contrary  to  the  general  practice  of  the  Chilenos,  the 
Indians  leave  the  saddle-girths  very  loose,  depending 
entirely  upon  skillfully  balancing  the  person  for  main- 
taining the  seat.  This  is  rendered  necessary  by  the 
fact  that,  when  away  from  home,  they  never  unsaddle 
on  dismounting,  nor  take  the  bit  from  the  horse's 
mouth,  even  though  they  should  be  several  hours 
afoot,  for,  like  all  savages,  they  are  suspicious ;  and, 
fearing  treachery,  they  are  continually  on  the  alert, 
ready  to  mount  and  fly  at  a  moment's  warning.  The 
horse's  wind  and  strength  are  thus  saved,  as  his  lungs 
are  unrestrained.  • 

I  was  again  struck  by  the  forwardness  and  imper- 


INDIAN     MANNERS. 


201 


tinence  of  the  boys,  who  gathered  round,  fingered  my 
dress,  saddle,  and  stirrups,  and  laughed  immoderately 
at  my  expense,  keeping  up  a  running  fire  of  comments, 
very  amusing  to  every  one  except  the  one  most  con- 
cerned, who,  fortunately,  did  not  understand  the  many 
flattering  compliments  paid  him. 

This  sauciness,  which  among  other  nations  would 
entitle  a  youngster  to  a  sound  cuffing,  is  rather  en- 
couraged among  the  Mapuches,  who  think  that  such 
license  fosters  a  spirit  of  independence ;  and  never 
punish  their  male  children,  considering  chastisement 
degrading,  and  calculated  to  render  the  future  man 
pusillanimous  and  unfit  for  the  duties  of  a  warrior. 
Yet,  despite  their  impertinence,  the  Indian  boys  are 
really  good-natured ;  and,  though  rough  jokers,  there 
is  no  malice  in  their  tricks,  nor  any  deliberate  inten- 
tion to  injure  their  victim. 

With  such  an  education,  or  rather  want  of  educa- 
tion, in  youth,  it  may  appear  singular  that,  as  a  peo- 
ple, the  Mapuches  are  far  from  rude  in  their  social 
intercourse. 

They  have  their  peculiar  etiquette,  in  the  observ- 
ance of  which  they  are  unusually  scrupulous.  They 
always  salute  on  meeting,  though  perfect  strangers ; 
in  conversation  they  never  interrupt  each  other;  they 
never  pass  directly  before  a  person,  or  between  two 
that  are  conversing,  without  apologizing  for  so  doing; 
and  in  many  other  respects  they  display  a  degree  of 
good-breeding  worthy  of  more  civilized  nations. 

After  considerable  chafiering — to  which  the  Indians 
are  very  much  addicted — several  animals  were  agreed 
upon,  for  which  Sanchez  was  to  call  on  his  return. 

I* 


202  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

To  my  surprise  he  paid  for  them  on  the  spot ;  but  he 
said  that,  though  given  to  steahng,  the  Mapuches  are, 
in  all  fair  business  transactions,  far  more  trustworthy 
than  the  "  Christianos." 

"  In  my  own  countrymen  I  have  not  the  same  con- 
fidence," he  added;  "  for  were  I  to  pay  a  Chileno  for 
a  horse  in  advance,  he  would  be  sure  to  cheat  me  if 
he  could." 

For  several  miles  we  rode  over  a  beautiful  rolling 
plain,  interspersed  at  intervals  with  fine  trees,  until 
we  came  to  the  small  river  Kaillim,  that  runs  through 
a  deep  gorge,  the  hills  on  either  side  of  which  rise 
very  abruptly,  and  on  the  north  are  heavily  wooded. 

Houses  were  to  be  seen  scattered  along  the  stream 
at  short  distances,  the  population  being  here  concen- 
trated, as  near  the  water-courses  it  generally  is. 

To  the  south  of  the  stream,  after  climbing  the  hills, 
we  came  upon  a  beautiful  undulating  plain,  covered 
with  luxuriant  grass,  and  scattered  with  large  oaks 
at  such  short  intervals  that,  as  we  rode  along,  we 
were  one-half  of  the  .time  in  the  shade.  These  oaks 
were  noble,  wide-spreading  trees,  and  gave  to  the 
whole  country,  unencumbered  by  brush  or  under- 
growth, the  appearance  of  a  well -tended  English 
park ;  but  an  occasional  huge  trunk,  charred  by  fire 
and  ready  to  fall,  or  already  prostrate,  told  the  mel- 
ancholy tale  that  these  sylvan  monarchs  are  passing 
away. 

The  custom  of  annually  burning  the  grass — which 
is  practiced  here  as  by  the  North  American  Indians — 
is  rapidly  destroying  the  forests  of  Southern  C^ili; 
gradually  giving  to  the  plain  the   same  appearance 


THE     ISLAND     OF     HEAVEN.  203 

that  it  wears  farther  to  the  north ;  and  though  it  has 
been  denied  by  those  whose  opinions  are  entitled  to 
great  weight,  I  could  not  escape  the  conviction  forced 
upon  my  mind,  that  the  plains  of  Central  Chili  were 
probably  once  covered  with  groves  which  have  disap- 
peared in  the  same  manner — leaving  the  fields,  de- 
prived of  protection,  parched  and  desolate,  causing  the 
rivers  to  dry  up,  and  the  springs  to  sink  back  into 
the  earth. 

In  such  a  climate,  it  has  been  urged,  for  want  of 
rain  and  moisture  in  the  atmosphere,  trees  could  never 
have  extensively  prevailed ;  but  the  effect  has,  per- 
haps, been  mistaken  for  the  cause,  and  this  very 
scarcity  of  rain  may  be  owing,  in  great  measure,  to 
the  destruction  of  woods  which  once  existed.  The 
influence  upon  climate  of  the  clearing  of  extensive 
tracts  is  well  understood  in  the  United  States ;  and, 
what  is  more  to  the  point,  the  opinion  prevails  among 
many  of  the  most  intelligent  people  of  Santiago,  that 
rains  are  becoming  perceptibly  of  greater  frequency  in 
that  region  as  the  neighboring  plains  are  brought  more 
and  more  under  cultivation. 

The  sun  had  already  set  when  we  drew  rein  in  front 
of  a  house  belonging  to  an  Indian  named  Chancay- 
Hueno  ("The  Island  of  Heaven"),  a  particular  friend 
of  Don  Panta's.  The  master  of  the  house  happened 
not  to  be  at  home ;  but  his  wife — for  in  this  case  there 
was  but  one — welcomed  us  cordially,  and  invited  us 
to  dismount.  She  had  a  pleasant  smiling  face,  and  a 
low,  soft,  musical  voice,  which  had  a  tone  of  sadness 
in  it  that  attracted  my  attention,  and  invested  her 
with  a  sort  of  melancholy  interest. 


204  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

Chancay  did  not  arrive  until  it  was  quite  dark. 
On  entering  he  at  first  took  no  notice  of  us ;  but  turn- 
ing to  his  wife,  said : 

"Put  more  wood  upon  the  fire,  that  I  may  have 
light  to  see  the  face  of  mj  friends." 

The  order  was  obeyed  by  throwing  firesh  canes 
upon  the  embers ;  and  so  soon  as  he  could  distinguish 
our  features  by  the  bright,  resinous  blaze,  he  saluted 
us  severally,  and  entered  into  conversation  with  San- 
chez. Having  expressed  his  satisfaction  at  our  visit, 
and  talked  for  some  time  in  a  friendly  manner,  he 
turned  to  our  Indian  companion,  who  was  a  stranger 
to  him,  and  said : 

"Your  face  is  new  to  me,  my  brother!'* 

The  usual  fifteen  minutes  of  complimentary  shout- 
ing and  grunting  here  ensued,  during  which  the  rest 
were  silent;  and,  drawing  a  little  to  one  side,  I  had 
an  opportunity  of  examining  somewhat  the  domestic 
arrangements  of  the  "Island  of  Heaven." 

The  house,  which  was  built  of  cane  and  thatch, 
was  rectangular,  some  thirty  feet  long  by  fifteen 
broad,  and  much  resembled  the  ordinary  ranchos 
in  common  use  among  the  poorer  classes  throughout 
Chili.  In  the  middle  of  the  roof  was  a  hole,  which 
served  as  a  chimney  to  the  fire  built  directly  beneath 
it  on  the  bare  ground.  This  hole,  and  the  low  door, 
were  the  only  apertures  for  the  admission  of  liglit  and 
air. 

In  two  of  the  corners  were  nide  frames  of  cane  cov- 
ered with  hides,  serving  as  bedsteads,  and  in  a  third 
stood  a  kind  of  bin,  formed  by  a  neatly-made  partition 
of  cane-work :  this  was  the  granary  for  stowing  away 


c 


DOMESTIC     ARRANGEMENTS.  205 

wheat.  The  rest  of  the  room  was  littered  with  earth- 
enware pots,  wooden  dishes,  spoons,  and  other  do- 
mestic utensils  scattered  about  in  admirable  confu- 
sion ;  while  from  the  black,  cobweb-covered  rafters 
above,  hung  ears  of  Indian  corn,  joints  of  meat,  pump- 
kins, strings  of  red  peppers,  and  a  grass  net  filled 
with  potatoes.  In  the  midst  of  these  symbols  of 
peace  and  plenty  were  suspended,  ready  for  immediate 
use,  two  long  lances,  with  their  iron  points  directed 
toward  the  door.  But  they  had  grown  rusty  during 
long  years  of  peace,  although  their  tips  were  protected 
by  bits  of  fat  meat. 

One  of  the  posts  supporting  the  roof  was  somewhat 
inclined  from  the  perpendicular,  and  notched  so  as  to 
form  a  ladder  by  which  to  reach  a  sort  of  loft  up  in 
the  region  of  soot  and  smoke,  where  sacks  of  beans 
and  other  luxuries  were  carefully  stored.  Over  the 
beds  dangled  spurs,  bits,  and  stirrups  of  silver,  with 
breast-pins,  ear-rings,  strings  of  beads,  and  numerous 
incomprehensible  nick-nacks,  evidently  intended  in 
some  way  to  increase  the  charms  of  the  fair  lady  of 
the  house. 

Squatting  among  the  ashes  and  almost  over  the 
fire,  leaning  forward  upon  her  gaunt,  withered  arm, 
was  a  wrinkled,  blear-eyed  old  woman,  looking  more 
like  a  dried  monkey  than  any  thing  human,  unless 
it  be  a  mummy  revived.  She  was  peering  intently 
through  the  smoke,  looking  at  me  as  though  unable 
to  make  up  her  mind  what  I  might  be,  and  occasion- 
ally intimating  her  feelings  by  a  long-drawn  "  Hue !" 
or  by  a  guttural  grunt  of  surprise.  Judging  from  her 
appearance,  she  must  have  been  very  old.      Near  her 


206  THEAEAUCANIANS. 

sat  our  hostess,  her  daughter,  who  was  stirring  round 
in  a  large  pot  over  the  fire — an  operation  that  she 
varied  occasionally  by  pulling  a  thong  attached  to  a 
hanging  cradle,  in  which  a  Kttle  black-eyed,  bullet- 
headed  baby  lay  staring  round  at  the  company.  At 
times,  as  she  raised  her  hand  to  shield  her  eyes  from 
the  ruddy  glare  and  the  heat  of  the  fire,  I  could  see 
that  she,  too,  was  furtively  engaged  in  studying  me 
out. 

As  soon  as  the  formal  compliments  came  to  an  end, 
the  caldron  was  tipped  over,  and  we  were  liberally 
supplied  with  meat  and  broth.  The  supper  was  ex- 
cellent, and  I  should  have  enjoyed  it  highly  had  I 
not  been  pestered  by  the  attentions  of  a  dog,  that  in- 
sisted on  sticking  his  nose  into  my  dish  every  time 
I  put  it  down.  A  good  kick  would  easily  have  rid 
me  of  this  troublesome  companion,  had  Mapuche  eti- 
quette allowed  me  to  bestow  one  on  the  offender ;  but 
on  the  old  principle  of  "love  me,  love  my  dog,"  any 
indignity  offered  to  this  "  custos  fidus  et  audax," 
would  have  been  considered  an  insult  to  our  host. 

We  made  up  our  beds  in  the  open  air,  using  for 
matresses  a  pile  of  soft  skins,  which  our  kind  hostess 
offered  for  the  purpose.  "For,"  said  she,  laughing, 
"our  'pichi  huenthu'  (little  man)  must  not  sleep  upon 
the  hard  ground." 


CHAPTER    XVIII. 

Female  Dress,  Paint,  Beads,  etc. — The  borrowed  Children. — Swath- 
ing Infants. — Mapuche  Marriages. — Value  of  a  Wife. — Infidelity. 
— A  Case  in  Point. — Female  Virtue. 

At  Chancay's  we  remained  several  days,  and  as 
Sanchez  was  here  upon  very  familiar  terms,  I  had  an 
excellent  opportunity  of  studying  the  peculiarities  of 
the  Araucanians. 

Our  hostess,  out  of  respect  for  her  guests,  or  actu- 
ated possibly  by  a  pardonable  female  vanity,  ap- 
peared, the  morning  after  our  arrival,  in  a  fresh  coat 
of  paint,  and  with  all  her  finery  on. 

The  colors  used  for  painting  are  red  and  black :  two 
species  of  earth,  which  are  mixed  wiih  grease  to  pre- 
vent their  being  easily  washed  off  when  once  applied. 
The  red  is  put  on  in  a  broad  belt  from  ear  to  ear, 
over  the  cheek,  eyelids,  and  nose.  The  black  is 
used  to  give  effect  to  the  eyebrows,  which  are  pulled 
out  so  as  to  leave  only  a  fine  line;  with  it,  too,  the 
eyelids  and  eyelashes  are  tipped  in  the  same  manner, 
and  for  the  same  purpose,  that  the  *'  henna"  is  used 
by  the  women  of  the  East.  The  lower  edge  of  the 
red  belt  upon  the  cheek  and  across  the  tip  of  the 
nose  is  also  frequently  lined  or  scolloped  with  black. 

The  fancy  of  individuals  wiU  sometimes  vary  the 
*'  mode"  by  the  addition  of  black  tears  rolling  down 


208  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

the  cheek;  but  the  established  fashion  is  generally 
rigidly  observed,  though  subject,  I  believe,  to  peri- 
odical modifications.  The  effect  produced  by  the 
colors  is  peculiar.  The  black,  undoubtedly,  imparts 
to  the  eyes  an  unusual  brilliancy ;  but  the  red  gives 
them  an  unearthly  glare  and  a  blood-shot  appearance 
that  is  far  from  agreeable. 

The  female  head-dress,  composed  entirely  of  beads 
of  various  colors,  so  arranged  as  to  form  figures, 
struck  me  as  being  very  pretty.  It  fell  quite  low 
upon  the  forehead,  and  descended  behind  over  the 
shoulders  and  back,  fringed  at  the  bottom  by  a  row 
of  brass  thimbles,  strung  together  so  as  to  jingle  like 
bells. 

The  hair  was  divided  into  two  queues,  wound  round 
with  bright  blue  beads,  and  connected  at  the  ends 
by  another  string  of  brass  thimbles.  On  ordinary 
occasions  this  head-dress  is  not  worn,  but  the  queues, 
wound  with  beads,  are  twisted  round  the  head  like  two 
snakes,  the  ends  falling  down  over  the  face,  or  sticking 
out  in  front  like  horns.  At  other  times  a  simple  fillet, 
ornamented  with  beads,  is  worn  to  confine  the  hair. 

The  neck  is  incased  with  a  leathern  collar,  studded 
with  silver.  A  great  profusion  of  beads,  in  strings 
of  various  colors,  are  worn  hanging  upon  the  breast, 
with  the  addition  of  silver  dollars,  thimbles,  etc.,  ac- 
cording to  the  wearer's  means.  Upon  the  wrist  and 
ankle,  bracelets  and  anklets,  also  of  beads,  are  worn ; 
but  anklets  are  not  worn  by  the  women  alone,  for 
woolen  ones  of  various  colors  are  worn  by  the  "gliel- 
menes"  as  a  distinction  of  rank. 

The  dress  of  an  Indian  belle  is  composed  of  two 


BORROWED     CHILDREN.  211 

garments,  not  unlike  the  "chiripa"  of  the  male  in 
form  and  texture,  though  differently  worn.  One  is 
wrapped  round  the  person  just  under  the  arms,  and 
pinned  up  over  the  shoulders  (so  as  to  leave  the  arm 
bare),  while  a  broad  leathern  belt,  with  silver  buckles, 
confines  the  garment  at  the  waist.  The  other  is 
tlirown  over  the  shoulders  like  a  cloak,  and  pinned  in 
front  with  a  silver  pin,  the  head  of  which  is  some- 
times globular,  but  more  frequently  it  is  flat,  and 
about  the  shape  and  size  of  a  small  dinner  plate. 
These  garments  are  for  the  most  part  of  home  manu- 
facture, of  a  black  or  deep  indigo  hue ;  .but  sometimes 
they  are  made  of  red  European  flannel. 

With  the  addition  of  massive  silver  ear-drops  the 
picture  is  complete. 

Though  the  love  of  paint  and  finery  is  generally 
considered  distinctive  of  the  milder  sex,  it  is  not  ex- 
clusively so,  for  the  young  bucks  sometimes  endeavor 
to  make  themselves  more  killing  by  the  same  means, 
and  though  generally  content  with  a  few  dabs  and 
streaks  upon  the  cheek,  there  are  not  wanting  those 
who  paint  elaborately  all  around  the  eye,  and  even 
color  their  lips  red. 

Our  hostess,  despite  her  paint,  had  a  pleasing  face ; 
not  that  her  features  were  fine,  for,  like  those  of  her 
countrywomen  generally,  they  were  too  purely  ani- 
mal, but  owing  to  a  subdued  expression  of  melan- 
choly that  she  habitually  wore.  She  was  lively  and 
talkative ;  she  seemed  gentle  and  affectionate ;  yet 
some  secret  grief  was  evidently  preying  upon  her 
happiness.  I  mentioned  my  impressions  to  Sanchez, 
^ftwho  confirmed  them,  and  gave  a  very  simple  explana- 

I 


212  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

tion :  Tliough  for  several  years  married  she  was  child- 
less, the  little  children  in  her  charge  being  borrowed 
from  a  sister-in-law  more  abundantly  blessed. 

There  is  inherent  in  the  female  breast  a  yearning 
for  some  object  upon  which  to  pour  out  its  love,  that 
makes  sterility  always  a  misfortune ;  but  among  the 
Mapuches,  as,  in  fact,  with  all  primitive  people,  it  is 
a  reproach.  The  case  is  infinitely  aggravated  when 
the  husband  is  under  no  restraint,  but  may  at  any 
moment  take  another  wife  upon  whom  to  bestow 
those  affections  due  to  her  toward  whom  he  has 
grown  indifferent,  for  want  of  that  most  sacred  and 
indissoluble  of  all  ties,  a  smiling  offspring. 

The  children  were  two,  a  little  boy  and  a  girl.  The 
former,  a  bright,  intelligent  youngster,  about  seven 
years  old,  rejoiced  in  the  name  of  "Panta,"  having 
been  so  called  in  honor  of  Sanchez.  The  little  girl 
was  younger,  and  bore  the  poetical  cognomen  of 
"Ely ape,"  a  contraction  of  "  Elya-pewe-coyam,"  sig- 
nifying "The  Oak  that  Buds  in  the  Spring."  She 
was  a  pretty,  sprightly  child,  but  in  vain  I  endeav- 
ored to  make  her  acquaintance,  for  having  once  seen 
me  take  off  my  hat — an  operation  that  frightened  her 
as  much  as  though  I  had  pulled  off  my  head — she 
avoided  me  in  horror  ever  after,  and  would  scream  at 
the  slightest  motion  of  my  hand  toward  my  hat. 

Besides  these  two,  there  was  a  2^(^jpoose  that  I  used 
to  see  occasionally  hanging  from  a  peg,  or  leaning  up 
against  the  side  of  the  house ;  it  was  closely  band- 
aged, and  tied  so  immovably  to  its  bamboo  frame, 
that  the  motion  of  its  eyes  alone  gave  any  indication 
of  life.     One  would  suppose  such  continual  restraint 


SWATHING     INFANTS. 


21; 


irksome  to  a  child;  but  the  little  thing  never  showed 
any  uneasiness,  and  subsequent  observation  convinced 
me  that,  in  all  babydom,  there  is  nothing  more  quiet 
and  contented  than  a  papoose. 


PAPOOSE   AND   CKADLE. 


Molina,  who  is  usually  very  accurate,  says  that  the 
Ai'aucanians  never  swathe  their  infants ;  but  I  found 
the  custom  universal,  and  though  the  same  practice 
prevails,  to  some  extent,  among  the  lower  classes  of 
the  Chilenos,  it  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  the  Indians 
have  borrowed  it  from  the  Spaniards.  Such  a  mis- 
take, however,  is  not  remarkable  in  one  who  never 
visited  the  people  whom  he  describes,  but  depended 
upon  others  for  his  information. 

The  real  mother  of  the  borrowed  children  was  a 
fat,  good-natured  creature,  that  had  picked  up  a  few 
words  of  Spanish ;  and  with  my  few  words  of  Indian, 
and  the  aid  of  a  Mapuche  dictionary,  we  managed 
to  carry  on  considerable  conversation.  She  was  fre- 
quently accompanied  by  a  younger  and  handsomer 


214  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

woman  than  herself,  whom  she  pointed  out,  with  evi- 
dent satisfaction,  as  her  "other  self" — that  is,  her 
husband's  wife  number  two,  a  recent  addition  to  the 
family.  Far  from  being  dissatisfied,  or  entertaining 
any  jealousy  toward  the  new-comer,  she  said  that  she 
wished  her  husband  would  marry  again ;  for  she  con- 
sidered it  a  great  relief  to  have  some  one  to  assist  her 
in  her  household  duties,  and  in  the  maintenance  of 
her  husband. 

This  feeling  was  not,  perhaps,  an  unnatural  one,  as 
among  the  Mapuches  the  females  do  all  the  labor, 
from  plowing  and  cooking  to  the  saddling  and  unsad- 
dling of  a  horse;  for  the  "lord  and  master"  does  lit- 
tle but  eat,  sleep,  and  ride  about,  justifying  himself 
in  such  a  course  by  the  reflection  that,  as  his  wives 
cost  him  a  high  price,  it  is  but  fair  that  they  should 
work  enough  to  make  up  the  outlay. 

It  is  true  that  an  Araucanian  girl  is  not  regularly 
put  up  for  sale  and  bartered  for,  like  the  Oriental 
houris ;  but  she  is  none  the  less  an  article  of  mer- 
chandise, to  be  paid  for  by  him  who  would  aspire  to 
her  hand.  She  has  no  more  freedom  in  the  choice 
of  her  husband  than  has  the  Circassian  slave. 

As  every  where  else,  mutual  attachments  do  some- 
times spring  up;  and  though  the  young  people  have 
but  little  opportunity  of  communicating  freely,  they 
will  occasionally  resort  to  amatory  songs,  tender 
glances,  and  other  innumerable  little  tricks,  which 
lovers  only  understand.  IMatrimony  may  follow;  but 
such  a  preliminary  courtship  is  by  no  means  consid- 
ered necessary,  nor  is  the  lady's  consent  deemed  of 
any  importance. 


MAPUCHE     MARRIAGES.  215 

Generally,  when  a  young  man  makes  up  his  mind 
to  many,  he  first  goes  to  his  various  firiends  for  as- 
sistance in  carrying  out  his  project.  If  he  be  poor, 
,  each  one  of  them,  according  to  his  means,  ofiers 
to  make  a  contribution  toward  the  expenses :  one 
gives  a  fat  ox ;  another  a  horse ;  a  third,  a  pair  of 
.  silver  spurs.  A  moonless  night  is  selected,  and  a 
rendezvous  named.  At  the  appointed  time  the  lover 
and  his  friends,  all  well  mounted,  congregate  as  agreed. 
Cautiously  and  in  silence  they  approach  and  surround 
the  residence  Of  the  bride. 

Half  a  dozen  of  the  most  smooth-spoken  in  the 
.  company  enter  and  seek  out  the  girl's  father,  to  whom 
they  explain  the  object  of  their  coming;  set  forth  the 
merits  of  the  aspirant ;  the  convenience  of  the  match, 
etc.,  and  ask  his  consent,  which  is  usually  granted 
with  readiness ;  for,  perhaps,  he  considers  his  daugh- 
ter somewhat  of  an  encumbrance,  and  calculates  upon 
what  she  will  bring.  Meanwhile  the  bridegroom  has 
sought  out  the  resting-place  of  his  fair  one ;  and  she, 
as  in  duty  bound,  screams  for  protection. 

Immediately  a  tremendous  row  commences.  The 
women  spring  up  en  masse^  and  arming  themselves 
with  clubs,  stones,  and  missiles  of  all  kinds,  rush  to 
the  defense  of  the  distressed  maiden.  The  friends 
interpose  to  give  the  lover  fair  play,  with  soothings 
and  gentle  violence  endeavoring  to  disarm  the  fierce 
viragoes ;  but  they  are  not  to  be  appeased,  and  happy 
the  man  that  escapes  without  a  broken  pate,  or  some 
other  bleeding  memento  of  the  flight. 

It  is  a  point  of  honor  with  the  bride  to  resist  and 
struggle,  however  willing  she  may  be,  until  the  im- 


216  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

patient  bridegroom,  brooking  no  delay,  seizes  her  by 
the  hair,  or  by  tlie  heel,  as  may  be  most  convenient, 
and  drags  her  along  the  ground  toward  the  open  door. 
Once  fairly  outside,  he  springs  to  the  saddle,  still  firm- 
ly grasping  his  screaming  captive,  whom  he  pulls  up 
over  the  horse's  back,  and  yelling  forth  a  whoop  of 
triumph,  he  starts  off  at  full  gallop.  The  friends  sally 
out,  still  pursued  by  the  wrathful  imprecations  of  the 
outraged  matrons,  and  follow  fast  in  the  track  of  the 
fugitives. 

Gaining  the  woods,  the  lover  dashes  into  the  tan- 
gled thickets,  while  the  friends  considerately  pause 
upon  the  outskirts  until  the  screams  of  the  bride  have 
died  away,  and  they  are  satisfied  that  no  one  is  in 
pursuit,  when  they  quietly  disperse. 

It  is  to  be  supposed  that  the  lady  finally  yields  to 
the  strong  arm  and  ardent  entreaties  of  her  gentle 
wooer ;  for,  without  further  marriage  ceremonies,  the 
happy  couple  emerge,  a  day  or  two  after,  from  the 
depths  of  the  forest  as  man  and  wife. 

Sometimes  the  parents  of  the  girl  are  really  opposed 
to  the  match.  In  which  case  the  neighbors  are  im- 
mediately summoned  by  blowing  the  horn,  and  chase 
is  given ;  but  if  the  fugitive  once  succeed  in  gaining 
the  thicket  in  safety,  the  marriage  can  not  afterward 
be  annulled. 

A  few  days  are  allowed  to  pass,  and  then  the  friends 
call  upon  the  happy  bridegToom.  Each  one  brings  his 
promised  contribution ;  and  driving  the  cattle  before 
them,  the  whole  bridal  party  set  off  to  the  former 
residence  of  the  bride.  The  presents  are  forfnally 
handed  over  to  the  father,  who,  if  he  considers  that 


MAPUCHE     MAKRIAGES.  217 

he  has  received  the  full  value  of  his  daughter,  mani- 
fests extreme  pleasure  at  the  marriage,  and  mutual 
congratulations  are  exchanged. 

The  girl's  mother  alone  does  not  enter  into  the  gen- 
eral joy ;  for  she  is  supposed  to  feel  highly  outraged 
by  the  robbery  of  her  child,  and  expresses  her  indig- 
nation by  refusing  to  speak  to,  or  even  look  at  her 
son-in-law.  But  at  the  same  time,  good  breeding  re- 
quires that  she  should  show  some  civilities  to  her 
guests;  and,  accordingly,  seating  herself  beside  the 
bride  (with  her  back  turned  upon  the  bridegroom),  she 
says,  *'My  daughter,  ask  your  husband  if  he  is  not 
hungry."  The  question  is  put,  and  by  the  interven- 
tion of  this  medium  a  conversation  is  carried  on,  and 
the  party  are  finally  regaled  with  a  meal,  in  the  prep- 
aration of  which  the  old  lady  exhausts  her  culinary 
art. 

The  point  of  honor  is,  in  some  instances,  carried  so 
far,  that  for  years  after  the  marriage  the  mother  never 
addresses  her  son-in-law  face  to  face ;  though  with  her 
back  turned,  or  with  the  interposition  of  a  fence  or  a 
partition,  she  will  converse  with  him  freely. 

Such  is  the  usual  process  of  getting  a  wife;  but 
sometimes  a  man  meets  a  girl  in  the  fields,  alone,  and 
far  away  from  her  home;  a  sudden  desire  to  better  his 
solitary  condition  seizes  him,  and  without  fiirther  ado, 
he  rides  up,  lays  violent  hands  upon  the  damsel,  and 
carries  her  off*.  Again  at  their  feasts  and  meiTy-mak- 
ings  (in  which  the  women  are  kept  somewhat  aloof 
from  the  men),  a  young  man  may  be  smitten  with  a 
sudden  passion,  or  be  emboldened,  by  wine,  to  express 
a  long  slumbering  preference  for  some  duskv  maid ; 

K 


218  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

his  sighs  and  amorous  glances  will  perhaps  be  returned, 
and  rushing  among  the  unsuspecting  females,  he  will 
bear  away  the  object  of  his  choice  while  yet  she  is  in 
the  melting  mood. 

When  such  an  attempt  is  foreseen,  the  unmarried 
girls  form  a  ring  around  their  companion,  and  en- 
deavor to  shield  her;  but  the  lover  and  his  friends,  by 
well-directed  attacks,  at  length  succeed  in  breaking 
through  the  magic  circle,  and  drag  away  the  damsel 
in  triumph ;  perhaps,  in  the  excitement  of  the  game, 
some  of  her  defenders  too  may  share  her  fate. 

In  all  such  cases  the  usual  equivalent  is  afterward 
paid  to  the  girl's  father. 

The  various  amounts  contributed  by  friends  toward 
paying  for  a  wife,  are  considered  debts  of  honor,  to 
be  repaid  whenever  the  benefactors  themselves  may 
be  in  need  of  similar  assistance,  or  at  the  latest,  to  be 
refunded  on  the  first  marriage  of  a  daughter  who  is 
the  fruit  of  the  union. 

Marriage  is  not  considered  indissoluble,  but  the 
husband  may,  even  after  a  term  of  years,  allow  his 
wife  to  return  to  her  father's  house,  if  she  be  so  dis- 
posed, with  the  freedom  of  marrying  whomsoever  she 
may  please ;  though  in  such  a  case  the  first  husband 
may  claim  from  the  second  the  full  price  which  she 
originally  cost. 

A  widow  by  the  death  of  her  husband  becomes 
her  own  mistress,  unless  he  may  have  left  grown  up 
sons  by  another  wife,  in  which  case  she  becomes  their 
common  concubine,  being  regarded  as  a  chattel  natu- 
rally belonging  to  the  heirs  to  the  estate.  A  chstom 
so  revolting  seems  hardly  credible,  but  my  guide  as- 


VALUE     OF     A     WIFE.  219 

sured  me  that  there  could  be  no  doubt  of  its  exist- 
ence. 

Infidelity  (in  the  female)  is  a  crime  always  punished 
by  death,  and  the  guilty  paramour,  if  taken  in  the 
act,  is  apt  to  share  the  fate  of  the  false  wife ;  but 
should  he  escape  for  the  moment,  he  may  subsequently 
be  made  to  pay,  to  the  injured  husband,  the  original 
cost  of  the  wife. 

An  instance  of  this  kind  came  under  my  notice 
while  at  Nacimiento. 

A  trader  of  that  town  had  entered  the  Indian  coun- 
try, accompanied  by  his  son.  The  young  man,  being 
fair  and  comely  to  look  upon,  found  favor  with  a  frail 
dame,  who,  allured  by  his  gallant  bearing,  and  possi- 
bly by  a  few  strings  of  beads,  forgot  that  she  was 
the  wife  of  a  potent  chieftain,  and  being  detected  in 
certain  peccadillos,  suffered  death  at  the  hands  of  her 
infuriated  lord.  The  young  man,  favored  by  a  fleet 
horse  and  by  the  shortness  of  the  distance,  made  his 
escape,  and  reached  Nacimiento  in  safety. 

In  a  few  days  he  was  followed  by  a  deputation,  sent 
by  the  Cazique  of  the  district,  to  lay  the  merits  of  the 
<5ase  before  the  Intendente.  They  represented  that 
though  it  was  in  their  power  to  have  seized  upon  the 
property  of  the  trader,  rather  than  do  any  thing  cal- 
culated to  disturb  their  amicable  relations  with  the 
whites,  they  preferred  to  leave  the  case  to  the  Chilian 

I  authorities,  trusting  that  the  laws  would  compel  the 
offender  to  make  the  proper  restitution,  especially  as 
the  woman  had  cost  a  large  sum,  and  was  a  particular 
feivorite  with  her  husband. 
The  Intendente,  after  due  deliberation,  induced  the 


220  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

young  trader  to  compromise  the  matter  with  trinkets 
and  clothes  supposed  to  be  an  equivalent  for  four  or 
five  fat  oxen,  the  value  of  the  deceased — the  Indians 
agreeing,  on  their  part,  that  in  any  trading  operations 
for  the  future  he  should  be  unmolested,  and  be  re- 
ceived upon  the  same  footing  as  though  nothing  had 
happened. 

The  virtue  of  the  Indian  women  has  often  been 
highly  extolled,  but  Sanchez,  I  thought,  rather  ridi- 
culed the  idea.  Fraility,  he  said,  in  an  unmarried 
female,  though  something  of  a  disqualification  for 
matrimony,  was  not  looked  upon  as  Very  disgraceful. 
Any  passably  good-looking  young  man,  with  beads 
and  trinkets  at  command,  and  a  not  over-delicate  taste, 
would,  he  imagined,  meet  with  quite  as  much  favor 
among  these  dusky  maidens  of  the  forest  as  among 
the  fairer  daughters  of  civilization — possibly  with 
rather  more. 

Man,  when  left  to  his  animal  nature,  without  relig- 
ion, or  a  high  code  of  morals  to  govern  his  actions,  is 
not  apt  to  put  much  restraint  upon  his  passions,  nor 
to  have  any  very  exalted  notions  of  abstract  virtue. 
The  children  of  Arauco,  famed  though  they  be  for  the 
valor  of  their  arms,  are  no  exception  to  this  rule. 


CHAPTER    XIX. 

Superstitious  dread  of  "Writing,  etc. — Hatred  of  the  English,  and  its 
Origin. — Use  of  Iron. — Mapuche  Graves. — Return  of  Captives. — 
The  Evil  Eye. — Raising  of  Sheep. — Introduction  of  Carts  by  Trad- 
ers.— Tactics  of  Chilian  Officials. 

In  order  to  see  what  effect  would  he  produced,  I 
showed  my  drawing  materials  and  sketches,  and  offer- 
ed some  of  my  paints  to  the  women  ;  but  though  they 
admired  the  colors,  especially  the  vermillion,  they 
would  not  accept  them,  evidently  fearing  that  they 
might  produce  some  mysterious  effect  upon  the  wearer. 
It  was  only  after  painting  my  squire  Jose  all  the  co- 
lors of  the  rainbow,  to  convince  them  that  there  was 
nothing  to  be  dreaded,  that  they  would  allow  me  to 
paint  the  faces  of  the  children.  The  little  things  re- 
quired a  great  deal  of  scrubbing  before  the  water-col- 
ors could  be  induced  to  stick  to  their  greasy  skins ; 
but  when  painted,  their  mothers  were  perfectly  de- 
lighted, and  they  afterward  complained  very  much  be- 
cause the  colors  came  off  when  the  children  were 
bathed ;  yet  though  they  brought  back  the  children 
to  be  repainted,  they  themselves  could  not  be  pei> 
suaded  to  use  the  bright  pigments  which  they  so  much 
admired. 

The  paper  and  pencils  surprised  them,  and  they 
were  much  amused  when  I  made  some  rough  sketches 
of  dogs,  chickens,  and  other  familiar  objects,  which 


222  THE    ARAUCANIANS. 

they  easily  recognized.  A  woman  was  setting  near, 
of  whom  I  drew  a  rude  outline,  painting  the  head- 
dress, beads,  etc.,  of  appropriate  colors.  The  men 
laughed  heartily  at  the  sight,  and  even  she  was  rather 
pleased ;  still  they  evidently  entertained  some  suspi- 
cions, and  though  Sanchez  attempted  to  explain  every 
thing  to  their  satisfaction,  none  of  the  rest  would  con- 
sent to  be  drawn. 

Sanchez  also  showed  and  explained  to  them  the 
likeness  of  my  father  {i.e.  a  sketch  taken  from  an  old 
man  at  Budeo,  who  was  said  to  resemble  Yega),  and 
told  them  that  I  intended  showing  it  to  Manin.  I 
added,  that  as  my  father  was  anxious  to  see  his  old 
friend  once  more,  I  wished  to  take  a  portrait  of  the 
great  chief  himself;  but  they  all  shook  their  heads,  and 
one  remarked, 

"  Manin  has  a  temper  like  a  mad  bull;  beware  that 
you  do  nothing  to  give  him  offense ! " 

This  unwillingness  to  have  one's  portrait  taken  is 
universal  among  these  people ;  for,  being  superstitious 
and  great  believers  in  magic,  they  fear  lest  the  one 
having  the  painting  in  his  possession  may,  by  machi- 
nations, injure  or  destroy  the  one  represented. 

The  same  superstitious  dread  applies  in  the  case  of 
names  also,  and  few  Indians  will  ever  tell  you  their 
names,  being  in  possession  of  which,  they  fear  that 
you  may  acquire  some  supernatural  power  over  them- 
selves. Asking  our  Indian  companion  his  name  one 
day,  he  replied, 

"I  have  none." 

Thinking  that  he  had  mistaken  my  meani^ig,  I 
again  asked,  and  was  told. 


i; 


SUPERSTITIONS.  223 

"I  don't  know." 

I,  of  course,  thought  that  my  "Indian-talk"  had 
been  unintelligible  to  him ;  but  Sanchez  afterward 
told  me  that  my  question  had  been  properly  worded, 
and  explained  the  cause  of  my  receiving  such  unintel- 
ligible answers  to  so  simple  a  question. 

Writing  being  far  above  their  comprehension,  is 
regarded  by  them  as  a  species  of  magic.  They  were 
especially  amazed  when  they  saw  the  dictionary  (writ- 
ten by  a  Jesuit  missionary),  and  learned  that  by  con- 
sulting it  I  could  find  out  words  in  their  own  language. 
All  attempt  to  explain  this  mystery  was  vain,  for  they 
were  fairly  stupefied,  and  could  scarcely  credit  their 
senses. 

One  of  those  present  having  pointed  to  some  object 
and  asked  its  Indian  name,  I  referred  to  the  dictionary 
and  immediately  answered  him.  He  was  incredulous, 
and  leaning  over,  he  peered  into  the  book  as  if  to  see 
if  he  could  recognize  any  resemblance  between  the 
thing  itself  and  the  printed  word.  I  pointed  out  the 
word ;  but,  not  satisfied  with  looking,  he  laid  his  hand 
upon  the  page  to  feel  the  letters.  A  passing  breeze 
at  that  moment  rustled  the  leaves.  He  jerked  back 
his  hand  in  an  instant.  Had  that  mysterious  book 
whispered  to  him  in  an  unknown  tongue?  It  was 
upon  his  left  hand,  too,  and  therefore  of  ill-omen! 
He  withdrew;  and  wrapping  his  poncho  about  his 
head,  sat  for  several  hours  in  moody  silence. 

It  was  not  considered  safe  to  write  when  any  of  the 
Indians  were  present,  for  fear  of  exciting  suspicion ; 
and  it  was  only  by  stealth  that  I  could  occasionally 
take  notes  of  what  I  saw.     For  this  purpose  I  availed 


224  THE     A  K  A  U  (J  A  N  I  A  N  S. 

myself  of  a  neighboring  thicket,  to  which  I  could  re- 
pair and  be  hidden  from  view.  Even  then  I  was 
likely  to  be  questioned  if  long  absent  from  the  house. 
But  the  fact  of  my  traveling  in  company  with  San- 
chez, who  was  universally  esteemed,  taken  in  connec- 
tion with  the  ostensible  motive  of  my  visit,  quieted  all 
doubts,  and  no  one  for  a  moment  questioned  my  being 
what  I  professed  to  be. 

Chancay's  brotlier — who  had  traveled  in  trading  ex- 
peditions over  the  pampas  as  far  as  Buenos,  and  had 
thus  been  thrown  in  contact  with  foreigners — perhaps 
suspected  from  my  appearance  that  I  was  no  Chileno ; 
for  he  used  occasionally  to  call  me  jpichi  Ingles  (little 
Englishman).  Whether  he  really  thought  me  such  or 
was  merely  joking,  I  never  could  determine.  But 
Sanchez  stoutly  denied  that  I  was  either  an  English- 
man or  a  Frenchman ;  and  declared  that  I  could  not 
speak  a  word  of  French  or  English.  If  I  differed  in 
any  thing  from  the  Chilenos,  he  said,  it  was  owing 
entirely  to  my  having  been  educated  in  Spain. 

Though  an  Englishman  in  their  midst  would  be 
as  great  a  curiosity  as  an  Araucanian  in  the  streets 
of  London,  these  Indians  have  an  antipathy  to  the 
very  name  of  "  Ingles."  This  feeling  at  first  seems 
unaccountable ;  but  it  was  probably  implanted  by 
the  agents  of  the  old  Spanish  Government,  and 
more  recently  has,  perhaps,  been  fostered  by  the  Chi- 
lenos as  a  safeguard  against  the  attempts  of  any  for- 
eign nation  to  gain  a  foothold  in  Southern  Chili ;  for, 
in  the  early  history  of  the  country,  two  efforts  were 
made  to  dispossess  the  Spaniards  of  the  provinces  ly- 
ing south  of  the  Bio-Bio — the  one  by  the  English, 


HATRED    OF    THE     ENGLISH.  225 

who,  in  1586,  landed  at  Quintero,  under  Sir  Thomas 
Cavendish,  and  endeavored  to  establish  friendly  rela- 
tions with  the  Indians,  but  were  repulsed  by  the 
Spaniards — ^the  other  by  the  Dutch,  who,  in  1600, 
took  and  plundered  Chiloe,  putting  the  garrison  to 
the  sword.  They  also  wished  to  form  an  alliance 
with  the  neighboring  tribes,  whom  they  had  intended 
to  supply  with  arms,  to  be  used  against  the  Spaniards ; 
but  their  designs  were  frustrated  by  a  sudden  attack 
of  the  Araucanians,  who,  regarding  all  Europeans  as 
enemies,  made  an  unexpected  descent  upon  the  island, 
and  drove  the  Dutch  back  to  their  ships  with  great 
loss. 

The  prejudices  of  the  Mapuches  may  possibly  have 
been  fortified  by  the  missionaries,  as  the  most  efiect- 
ual  obstacle  to  the  success  of  rival  missions ;  for  though 
the  Indians  make  no  pretension  to  Christianity,  they 
have  a  most  holy  horror  of  "moros,"  "hereges,"  and 
"infieles,"  terms  which  througliout  Chili  are  indis- 
criminately applied  to  aU  without  the  pale  of  the  True 
Church. 

I  was  frequently  interrogated  about  the  "  Ingleses." 
Were  they  not  a  very  bad  people,  and  exceedingly  anx- 
ious to  gain  possession  of  the  Mapuche  country,  etc. 
I  vindicated  their  character,  and  assigned  reasons  why 
they  would  not  desire  such  a  conquest;  but  it  was 
not  prudent  to  say  too  much  in  their  favor,  since, 
by  so  doing,  I  might  bring  myself  into  bad  repute. 

Chancay  had  somewhere  picked  up  an  idea  of  a 
locomotive,  which  he  described  as  a  fiery  monster, 
much  fleeter  and  stronger  than  the  horse.  He  had  been 
told  that  the  ''moros"  made  use  of  such  infernal  in- 

K* 


22G  THE     A  R  A  U  C  A  N  I  A  N  S. 

ventions,  and  wished  to  know  if,  in  mj  travels,  I  had 
seen  one.  He  was  surprised  to  learn  that  such  things 
were  about  to  be  introduced  into  Chili,  and  asked  if 
they  did  not  bode  evil  to  the  Indians.  I  tried  to  ex- 
plain somewhat  the  construction  and  object  of  rail- 
roads, but  as  Mr.  Llanque-Hueno,  who  acted  as  in- 
terpreter, did  not  understand  Spanish  very  perfectly, 
it  is  doubtful  whether  the  audience  were  much  the 
wiser  for  my  explanation,  although  they  seemed  satis- 
fied on  the  main  point,  that  nothing  was  to  be  dreaded, 
and  that  steam-engines  were  promotive  of  peace  rather 
than  of  war. 

In  the  neighborhood  of  Chancay's  house,  I  no- 
ticed that  many  of  the  large  trees  were  girdled,  for  the 
purpose  of  destroying  them,  as  is  commonly  prac- 
ticed in  the  thickly  wooded  parts  of  our  own  country. 
This  is  the  only  means  the  Indians  have  of  getting 
rid  of  trees,  for  the  ax  is  utterly  unknown  to  them ; 
the  nearest  approach  which  I  met  to  any  thing  of  the 
kind,  was  a  small  instrument  for  chopping,  that  looked 
somewhat  like  an  adze  ;  but  it  was  rudely  constructed, 
and  utterly  worthless  except  for  the  most  trivial  pur- 
poses. 

Whether  this  instrument  was  entirely  of  their  own 
workmanship,  I  did  not  think  to  inquire,  supposing 
the  Mapuches  to  be  unacquainted  with  the  manu- 
facture of  iron  implements.  But  Molina  contends 
that  they  were  well  acquainted  with  that  metal  be- 
fore the  conquest  of  the  country  by  the  Spaniards — 
an  opinion  wliich  he  fortifies  by  adducing  the  specific 
Indian  name  for  iron,  '^panilhue."  ' 

The  learned  Abbe  mav  be  correct  in  his  surmises, 


i 


USE     OF     IRON. 


227 


but  if  so,  the  Indians  certainly  profited  but  little 
by  their  knowledge,  for  in  their  early  wars  they  made 
no  use  of  iron  arms,  and  subsequently  they  have  de- 
pended entirely  upon  the  Spaniards  for  bits,  knives, 
spear-heads,  and  the  few  other  articles  of  the  kind 
which  they  require. 

There  was  a  marked  difference  between  the  burial- 
places  hereabouts  and  those  more  to  the  north,  al- 
though it  may  have  been  merely  an  accidental  one, 
growing  out  of  the  greater  abundance  of  wood  in  this 
vicinity.  Instead  of  the  simple  uprights  and  cross- 
pole,  described  at  Budeo,  nearly  all  the  graves  were 
surrounded  by  rough-hewn  boards,  forming  a  rude 
fence,  from  the  midst  of  which  rose  the  long,  quiver- 
ing lance. 


MAPUCHE  GRAVES. 


228  THE     AKAUCANIANS. 

In  one  of  our  jaunts  we  stopped  to  see  an  Indian 
woman,  who  in  her  infancy  was  captured,  and  had 
been  brought  up  among  Christians. 

Though  the  government  of  Chili  many  years  since 
commanded  all  Indian  captives  to  be  restored  to  their 
friends,  numbers  were  unwilling  to  return  to  a  state 
of  barbarism,  which  they  had  been  taught  by  their  cap- 
tors to  regard  with  horror.  This  woman  long  refused 
to  go  back  to  her  home,  but  yielded,  at  length,  to  the 
tears  and  entreaties  of  an  aged  mother.  She  seemed 
overjoyed  to  meet  some  fellow-Christians,  and  paid  us 
much  attention.  She  dressed  like  a  Chilena,  eschewing 
entirely  the  Indian  costume ;  spoke  Spanish  like  any 
Penquista,  and  was  in  no  way  distinguishable  from  the 
lower  classes  of  the  population  throughout  Chili. 

She  expressed  strong  hopes  of  being  able  to  con- 
vert some  of  her  family  to  Christianity ;  and  though 
her  own  religion  was  probably  not  of  the  highest 
order,  much  might  be  accomplished  by  the  persevering 
efforts  of  persons  in  like  situations.  But,  as  a  general 
rule,  those  who,  after  living  among  the  whites,  return 
to  their  parents,  so  far  from  exerting  a  marked  influ- 
ence over  the  Indians,  are  prone  to  relapse  very  soon 
into  heathenism.  This  is  especially  true  of  women ; 
for  being  highly  prized  for  wives  on  account  of  their 
superior  accomplishments,  they  are  soon  carried  off 
by  some  amorous  chieftain,  and  in  the  cares  of  a  fam- 
ily they  soon  forget  whatever  of  Christianity  they  may 
have  learned. 

The  subject  of  captives  is  the  one  in  relation  to 
which  the  Indians  are  said  to  feel  themselves  most 
aggrieved  by  the  Chilian  government. 


EETUEN     OF     CAPTIVES.  229 

A  mutual  agreement  having  been  made  that  all 
captives  of  either  nation  should  be  given  up  to  their 
relations  when  demanded,  the  Indians  faithfully  com- 
plied with  their  part  of  the  obligation,  even  forcing 
those  to  return  who  were  unwilling ;  for  as  many  had 
been  captured  in  their  childhood  and  grown  up  habit- 
uated to  an  uncivilized  life,  they  were  loth  to  begin  a 
different  mode  of  existence  among  those  whom  they 
considered  not  as  brothers,  but  as  strangers.  But  the 
authorities  of  Chili,  actuated  by  motives  of  humanity, 
refused  to  make  use  of  coercion  for  the  return  of  Indian 
captives,  leaving  them  at  liberty  to  go  back  to  their 
homes,  or  remain  with  their  masters,  as  they  might  see 
fit ;  and  it  is  probable  that  much  individual  influence, 
perhaps  even  intimidation,  was  used  to  prevent  their 
return,  for  fear  of  their  relapsing  from  Christianity. 

The  number  of  Indian  captives  among  the  Chilenos 
is  probably  much  greater  than  is  generally  supposed ; 
for,  being  scattered  about  in  menial  capacities,  they 
are  seldom  brought  to  notice.  There  are,  the  Indians 
contend,  several  hundreds,  whose  parents  yearn  for 
them  incessantly — complaining  bitterly  that  their 
children,  torn  away  by  violence,  are  living  in  bondage 
amidst  a  strange  people. 

Returning  to  the  house  of  our  host,  we  found  the 
women  and  children  weeping  bitterly  for  the  loss  of  a 
sheep  that  had  gone  astray.  Though  they  would 
willingly  sacrifice  a  sheep  at  any  time  for  the  sake  of 
entertaining  a  friend,  the  loss  of  one  was  regarded  as 
a  sad  calamity,  not  on  account  of  the  value  of  the 
animal  lost,  but  as  an  indication  of  bad  luck — a  fore- 
warning, perhaps,  of  greater  evils  in  store. 


230  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

Chancaj  himself  seemed  no  less  distressed  than  the 
women  and  children,  and  his  dread  of  some  baneful 
influence  at  work  upon  his  flocks  reminded  us  of  the 
verse : 

"  Nescio  quis  teneros  oculus  mihi  fascinat  agnos  j" 

for  the  Mapuche  of  to-day  is  no  less  a  believer  in  the 
"Evil  eye"  than  was  the  old  Roman  two  thousand 
years  ago. 

There  is  no  country  better  adapted  to  the  raising 
of  sheep  than  that  possessed  by  the  Araucanians. 
The  mutton — ^which  forms  an  important  article  of 
their  diet — is  of  excellent  quality,  far  superior  to 
that  raised  on  the  arid  plains  of  Central  Chili.  The 
fleeces  also  are  fine,  and  if  properly  washed  would 
command  a  high  price. 

Heretofore  the  wool  produced  has  been  consumed 
by  the  Indians  themselves ;  but  within  two  or  three 
years  it  has  become  an  article  of  trade  with  the  Chile- 
nos.  As  nearly  every  family  has  its  flock,  the  quan- 
tity of  wool  which  might  be  exported  is  considerable, 
and  probably  will  be  much  increased  as  the  demand 
becomes  greater. 

One  of  the  greatest  drawbacks  to  traders  was  the 
necessity  of  transporting  the  wool  upon  pack-animals, 
at  an  expense  which  greatly  curtailed  the  profits  which 
they  would  otherwise  have  enjoyed.  But  this  has  of 
late  been  obviated  by  the  use  of  ox-carts. 

The  first  introduction  of  carts  by  the  traders  gave 
alarm  to  the  Indians,  who  feared  some  sinister  design 
— thinking  that  perhaps  the  government  had  adopted 
this  mode  of  testing  the  practicability  of  invading  their 
country  with  artillery.     Every  means  short  of  actual 


I 


INTRODUCTION     OF     CARTS. 


231 


violence  was  used  to  obstruct  their  way.  Trees  were 
felled  along  the  accustomed  routes,  and  other  impedi- 
ments were  so  placed  as  to  render  not  only  the  ad- 
vance, but  the  return  of  any  wheeled  vehicle  extremely 
difficult.  Not  content  with  these  measures,  they  de- 
termined to  send  a  deputation  of  inquiry  to  Sepulveda 
(the  Commandante  of  Nacimiento),  in  whom  they 
placed  great  confidence,  to  learn  the  meaning  of  the 
late  innovations. 

The  Commandante  pretended  to  be  surprised,  and 
indignantly  declared  that  the  audacity  of  the  traders 
should  be  severely  punished.  Having  thus  gained 
^heir  confidence,  he  inquired  of  the  complainants  the 
object  of  the  traders,  and  what  they  carried  on  their 
carts. 

"Nothing  but  wool,"  was  the  answer. 

"Is  it  possible!"  said  he,  on  receiving  this  reply. 

And  then,  as  if  struck  by  a  sudden  idea,  he  exclaimed : 

"Who  knows?     Perhaps  the  poor  fellows  had  not 

horses  and  mules  enough  to  transport  their  wool,  and 

were  obliged  to  use  oxen  instead!" 

The  thought  was  a  novel  one  to  the  Indians ;  and 
after  due  consideration,  they  admitted  the  force  of  the 
explanation,  and  concluded : 

"Well!  let  the  poor  devils  use  their  carts  until  they 
are  rich  enough  to  buy  horses  and  mules  ?" 

This  is  but  a  fair  specimen  of  the  tactics  pursued 
by  the  government  agents  in  treating  with  the  Indians. 
The  Mapuche  is  impatient  of  contradiction,  and  brooks 
no  command.  It  is  impossible  to  accomplish  any 
thing  by  combating  his  prejudices  ;  but  by  appearing 
to  coincide  with  his  views,  and  gTadually  turning  his 


232  THE    ARAUCANIANS. 

thoughts  in  another  direction,  he  is  easily  convinced, 
and  may,  for  the  time  at  least,  be  influenced  to  adopt 
any  desired  course — ^though,  when  left  to  himself,  he 
soon  returns  to  his  own  prejudices,  or  allows  himself 
to  be  reasoned  into  some  still  different  course  by  the 
next  comer. 


CHAPTER    XX. 

The  sick  Woman. — The  Cautery. — Skill  of  the  Mapuches  in  Medi- 
cine.— Machi,  or  Doctors. — Their  Cures  and  Incantations. — Div- 
inations.— The  Machi  of  Boroa. — Remedies. 

In  one  of  my  rambles  with  Sanchez,  we  entered  a 
house,  and  were  surprised  to  find  the  whole  family  in 
tears — especially  the  father,  who  wept  like  a  child 
over  his  sick  wife  who  lay  groaning  upon  the  ground. 
She  was  troubled  with  a  large  tumor  upon  the  breast, 
caused,  it  was  said,  by  falling  from  her  horse. 

My  advice  was  solicited,  but  I  had  none  to  give ; 
and  finally,  for  want  of  something  better,  the  husband 
turned  her  over  and  applied  a  cautery  to  her  back. 
This  was  done  by  pressing  firmly  down  upon  the 
skin  a  small  ball  of  pith,  which  was  lighted  and  al- 
lowed to  burn  until  entirely  consumed.  The  poor 
woman  writhed  in  agony  as  the  burning  pith  sank 
into  the  quivering  flesh,  and  her  tormentor  seemed  to 
feel  her  every  pang  as  he  stood  brushing  away  the 
tears  that  rolled  down  his  dusky  cheeks.  And  yet 
this  man  had  the  reputation  of  a  brave  soldier,  and 
would  have  borne  with  unflinching  stoicism  any  tor- 
ture at  the  hands  of  an  enemy :  nor  was  he  an  excep- 
tion to  his  race ;  for  the  valiant  warriors  of  Arauco, 
the  descendents  of  the  Caupolicans  and  the  Lautaros 
of  history,  in  the  bosom  of  their  families  are  as  tender- 
hearted as  women. 


234  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

I  could  not  exactly  see  the  philosophy  of  applying 
a  cautery  to  the  back  to  remove  a  tumor  in  the 
breast,  but  judging  from  the  numerous  small  scars 
upon  the  woman's  person,  the  remedy  must  have  been 
her  husband's  panacea. 

The  Mapuches  have  their  medicine-men,  who  really 
possess  considerable  skill  in  the  treatment  of  disease, 
and  are  well  acquainted  with  the  proper  use  of  emet- 
ics, cathartics,  and  sudorifics — tliey  all  blister,  and 
frequently  bleed.  The  latter  operation  is  performed 
with  a  small  piece  of  flint  or  obsidian.  For  the  pur- 
pose of  injection,  they  make  use  of  a  bladder,  as  is 
still  commonly  practiced  among  the  Chilenos.  Their 
remedies  are  principally,  if  not  entirely,  vegetable, 
though  they  administer  many  disgusting  compounds 
of  animal  matter,  which  they  pretend  are  endowed 
with  miraculous  powers.  Many  of  their  medicines 
axe  among  the  most  efficient  of  the  materia  medica  ; 
as,  for  instance,  sarsaparilla,  and  that  excellent  feb- 
rifiige,  now  so  well  known  to  Europeans — the  can- 
chalagua.* 

By  frequent  amputations  the  Mapuche  doctors 
have  acquired  a  knowledge  of  anatomy  extraordinary 
in  a  barbarous  people;  but  being  without  a  written 
language,  they  advance  but  little  from  generation  to 
generation.  Advancement  is  farther  checked  by  the 
system  of  imposture  they  adopt,  shrouding  every 
thing  with  mystery,  and  attributing  all  success  to  su- 
pernatural agency,  rather  than  to  the  natural  effects 
of  physical  causes. 

*  This  word,  which  has  been  changed  from  the  Spanish  ca&haula- 
gua  to  canchalagua,  is  a  corruption  of  the  Mapuche  cachaulakuen. 


THE     M  A  C  II  I.  235 

Though  invested  with  no  sacerdotal  character,  they 
pretend  to  be  diviners  and  magicians,  and  possess  much 
skill  in  the  performance  of  sleight-of-hand  tricks,  which 
enter  largely  into  the  working  of  their  cures. 

The  doctors,  as  far  as  I  could  learn,  are  generally- 
known  as  machis^  and  the  performance  of  their  cures 
is  called  machitu7i.  The  Abbe  Molina  enumerates 
besides  the  machis,  two  other  kinds  of  doctors — the 
airvpives  and  the  vileus.  The  former  are  empirics  who 
confine  themselves  to  botanical  medicines ;  the  latter 
are  practitioners  who  believe  all  diseases  to  proceed 
from  insects.  But  the  Jesuit  Febres,  whose  opportu- 
nities for  studying  the  peculiarities  of  the  Mapuch^s 
were  unequaled,  makes  no  distinction  in  his  diction- 
ary between  the  three  terms,  which  he  seems  to  con- 
sider synonymous. 

These  medicine-men  are  but  few  in  number,  and  as 
they  demand  exorbitant  remuneration  for  their  ser- 
vices, they  are  seldom  appealed  to,  except  in  cases  of 
dangerous  illness. 

When  the  doctor  is  called  upon  to  administer  to  a 
sick  person,  he  comes  in  the  evening,  which  is  the 
time  most  favorable  for  his  proceedings,  and  having 
first  stripped  and  made  himself  as  horrible  as  possible 
with  paint,  he  commences  his  machitun. 

The  patient  is  laid  upon  his  back  in  the  middle  of 
the  hut,  and  all  the  family  are  turned  out  of  doors,  or 
made  to  sit  with  their  faces  toward  the  waU.  Having 
examined  the  symptoms  of  the  disease,  the  machi  be- 
gins a  long  incantation,  which  consists  of  a  monoto- 
nous song,  accompanied  by  the  beating  of  a  small 
drum,  formed  by  straining  a  sheep-skin  tightly  oyer  a 


236  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

wooden  bowl.  With  contortions  and  violent  gestures 
the  singer  hecomes  more  and  more  excited,  until, 
working  himself  up  to  the  proper  pitch,  he  falls  back- 
ward upon  the  ground,  with  rolling  eyes,  foaming 
mouth,  and  spasmodic  convulsions,  and  remains  for 
some  time  in  an  apparent  trance. 

At  this  signal  the  young  men,  naked  and  hideously 
painted,  mounting  their  horses,  bare-backed,  rush  fran- 
tically around  the  house,  screaming,  shouting,  waving 
torches  over  their  heads,  and  brandishing  their  long 
lances  to  frighten  away  the  evil  spirits  that  are  sup- 
posed to  hover  round,  seeking  to  injure  the  sick  man. 

Recovering  from  his  trance,  the  medicine  man  de- 
clares the  nature  and  seat  of  the  malady,  and  proceeds 
to  dose  the  patient,  whom  he  also  manipulates  about 
the  part  afflicted  until  he  succeeds  in  extracting  the 
cause  of  the  sickness,  which  he  exhibits  in  triumph. 
This  is  generally  a  spider,  a  toad,  or  some  other  rep- 
tile which  he  has  had  carefully  concealed  about  his 
person.  The  medicines  are  then  left  to  do  their 
work ;  and  if  the  sick  man  recovers,  the  cure  is  con- 
sidered miraculous ;  if  he  dies,  his  death  is  deemed 
in  accordance  with  the  will  of  God,  or  else  it  is  at- 
tributed to  the  machinations  of  some  secret  enemy. 

After  death  the  services  of  the  machi  are  again  re- 
quired, especially  if  the  deceased  be  a  person  of  dis- 
tinction. The  body  is  dissected  and  examined.  If 
the  liver  be  found  in  a  healthy  state,  the  death  is  at- 
tributed to  natural  causes ;  but  if  the  liver  prove  to 
be  inflamed,  it  is  supposed  to  indicate  the  machina- 
tions of  some  evil-intentioned  persons,  and  it  >rests 
with  the   medicine-man  to  discover  the  conspirator. 


DIVINATIONS.  237 

This  is  accomplished  by  much  the  same  means  that 
were  used  to  find  out  the  nature  of  the  disease.  The 
gall  is  extracted,  put  in  the  magic  drum,  and  after 
various  incantations  taken  out  and  placed  over  the 
fire,  in  a  pot  carefully  covered:  if,  after  subjecting 
the  gall  to  a  certain  amoimt  of  roasting,  a  stone  is 
found  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot,  it  is  declared  to  be 
the  means  by  which  death  was  produced. 

These  stones,  as  well  as  the  frogs,  spiders,  arrows, 
or  whatever  else  may  be  extracted  from  the  sick  man, 
are  called  Huecuvu — the  "Evil  One."  By  aid  of  the 
Hueeuvu,  the  machi  throws  himself  into  a  trance,  in 
which  state  he  discovers  and  announces  the  person 
guilty  of  the  death,  and  describes  the  manner  in  which 
it  was  produced. 

The  most  implicit  credence  is  yielded  to  these  div- 
inations ;  and  frequently  the  person  accused  is  pur- 
sued by  the  relatives  of  the  deceased,  and  put  to 
death.  Some  of  the  most  sanguinary  broils  that  ever 
disturbed  the  tranquillity  of  the  nation  arose  fi'om 
this  cause.  Instances  sometimes  occur  in  which  the 
friends  of  the  deceased  make  a  formal  application  to 
the  Cazique  of  the  district  for  the  delivery  of  the  sup- 
posed offender,  to  be  executed  after  having  first  been 
tortured  for  the  sake  of  extracting  a  confession  of  guilt. 
Such  demands  at  times  are  acceded  to,  and  the  pain 
of  torture  does  not  always  fail  to  extort  an  admis- 
sion of  the  imputed  crime. 

By  such  means  the  machis  obtain  a  terrible  influ- 
ence, which  they  but  too  well  know  how  to  use  for 
the  gratification  of  private  revenge. 

To  discover  the  perpetrators  of  murders  and  other 


238  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

crimes,  the  medicine-men  are  also  consulted;  and 
their  declarations  are  considered  at  least  strong  pre- 
sumptive evidence  against  the  accused.  A  case  of 
this  kind  came  subsequently  under  my  own  observa- 
tion. The  year  before  an  Indian  had  been  secretly 
assassinated  in  an  unfrequented  spot.  All  investiga- 
tion had  been  baffled,  until,  at  last,  the  friends  of  the 
murdered  man  determined  to  consult  the  famous  machi 
(a  woman,  as  it  happened)  of  Boroa.  The  decision 
given  was,  that  the  murder  had  been  committed  by 
an  Indian  and  a  Christian  conjointly ;  and  on  exam- 
ination, it  proved  that  both  the  men  indicated  were, 
at  the  time  named,  at  or  near  the  place  of  the  occur- 
ence. 

The  Indian  was  living  at  Budeo;  and  the  Chris- 
tian, after  a  trading  expedition,  had  returned  to  his 
home.  While  we  were  staying  at  the  house  of  a 
chief  on  our  return,  I  noticed  a  long  and  earnest  con- 
versation going  on  in  an  undertone  between  Sanchez 
and  the  Cazique:  this  consultation,  I  afterward  learned, 
referred  to  the  murder  and  the  revelations  of  the  machi. 
The  friends  of  the  deceased  had  determined  to  capture 
the  Indian  supposed  to  be  guilty,  and  wished  Sanchez 
to  exert  his  influence  with  the  authorities  at  Los 
Angelos,  that  the  Chileno  might  be  arrested  and 
brought  to  trial. 

The  office  of  medicine-man,  though  generally  usurped 
by  males,  does  not  appertain  to  them  exclusively ;  and 
at  the  time  of  our  visit  the  one  most  extensively 
known  was  a  black  (or  meztizo)  woman,  who  had  ac- 
quired the  most  unbounded  influence  by  shrewdness, 
joined  to  a  hideous  personal  appearance,  and  a  certain 


REMEDIES.  239 

mysterj  with  which  she  was  invested;  for,  though 
her  general  outhne  was  that  of  a  woman,  she  wore 
the  male  dress,  spoke  in  a  coarse,  harsh  voice,  and 
sought  in  various  ways  to  render  her  true  sex  doubt- 
ful. But  such  instances  are  rare  ;  for  the  right  of 
women  to  take  a  share  in  the  learned  professions  is  a 
doctrine  belonging  to  a  much  higher  state  of  civiliza- 
tion than  that  to  which  the  Mapuches  have  attained. 

Besides  the  regular  practitioners,  every  old  woman 
here,  as  all  the  world  over,  has  her  own  infallible 
remedies  for  ordinary  complaints ;  and  generally  the 
more  absurd  and  disgusting  their  composition,  the 
greater  the  faith  accorded  to  them. 

The  belief  in  nauseous  and  ridiculous  nostrums,  so 
common  among  the  lower  classes  in  Chili,  is  prob- 
ably of  Indian  rather  than  of  Spanish  origin ;  and  I 
doubt  whether  the  Guasos,  as  a  mass,  are  much  better 
off  than  their  Mapuche  brethren.  As,  however,  the 
greater  part  of  their  complaints  arise  from  repletion, 
any  thing  calculated  to  induce  vomiting  can  not  but 
be  beneficial,  and  to  that  end  most  of  their  medicines 
are  admirably  adapted. 


CHAPTER    XXI. 

Form  of  Government  of  the  Araucanians. — Council  of  Peace. — Na- 
tional Assemblies. — Council  of  War. — The  Colyico. — Peculiarities 
in  the  Mapuche  Head  and  Foot. — The  Jew's-harp. — Primeval  For- 
est.— Ketredeguin. 

After  several  days  spent  with  Chancay,  Sanchez 
and  myself  determined  to  set  out,  unaccompanied  by 
the  rest  of  the  party,  to  pay  our  formal  court  to  the 
great  Maiiin.  But  before  proceeding  farther,  it  may 
not  be  amiss  to  acquaint  the  reader  with  the  nature 
of  the  Araucanian  government,  in  order  that  he  may 
fully  understand  the  importance  of  this  lordly  savage, 
to  whom  all  the  minor  chiefs  yield  a  ready  submis- 
sion. 

Araucania  is  divided  into  four  parallel  provinces 
known  as,  Lauquen-Mapu,  the  Sea-Country,  including 
the  districts  of  Arauco,  Tucapel,  Illicura,  and  Boroa ; 
Lebun-Majpu^  the  Country  of  the  Plain,  which  includes 
Encol,  Puren,  Repoura,  Maquegua,  and  Mariquina; 
Inajpire-Mwpu^  the  country  lying  at  the  foot  of  the 
Cordilleras,  comprising  Malven,  Colhue,  Chacaico, 
Quecherigua,  and  Guanague;  and  Pire-Mwpu^  the 
valleys  of  the  Andes.  These  districts  are  subdivided 
by  small  streams  into  minor  divisions,  which  are  pos- 
sessed by  clans  having  hereditary  chiefs,  who  exer- 
cise a  species  of  patriarchial  authority,  and  may  be 
regarded  as  the  heads  of  families. 


GOVERNMENT.  241 

The  obligations  of  the  clansmen  to  their  chief  are 
of  a  general  and  trifling  nature.  He  is  the  arbiter  of 
all  disputes,  and  the  dispenser  of  justice,  from  whom 
there  is  no  appeal;  but  he  raises  no  tribute,  and  re- 
quires no  personal  service  except  in  war,  or  for  the 
transaction  of  public  business.  Though  the  land, 
wherever  unoccupied,  is  considered  the  common  prop- 
erty of  those  who  belong  to  the  clan,  the  chief  alone 
can  dispose  of  it  by  sale  or  otherwise  to  persons  who 
do  not.  But  even  he  is  unable  to  sell  it  to  any  but 
Indians  ;  for,  as  a  means  of  preserving  their  territorial 
integrity  and  national  independence,  it  was  long  since 
decreed  by  the  Araucanians,  that  any  person  guilty 
of  selling  lands  to  the  whites  should  be  put  to  death. 

Yet  there  are  not  wanting  those  who  have  suc- 
ceeded, first  by  intoxication,  and  afterward  by  threats 
of  exposure,  in  wheedling  the  natives  out  of  large 
tracts  of  land,  which  the  purchasers  occupy  as  ten- 
ants until  an  opportunity  may  arrive  of  openly  assert- 
ing their  claims. 

These  chiefs  (properly  called  Apo-  Ghelmenes,  though 
usually  known  among  the  Chilenos  as  Caziquei)  are 
independent  of  each  other,  and  politically  equal,  though 
in  each  district  there  is  always  some  one  to  whom,  on 
account  of  distinguished  family,  great  courage,  or  su- 
perior abilities,  a  certain  authority  is  conceded  by  the 
rest.  The  office  of  Cazique,  though  descending  to  the 
eldest  son,  may  be  otherwise  disposed  of  by  the  dying 
incumbent,  who  frequently  sets  aside  the  natural  heir 
to  favor  a  younger  son,  and  sometimes  even  selects  as 
successor  a  person  not  of  his  own  family.  Should  a 
Cazique  die,  leaving  neither  male  issue,  brothers,  nor 

L 


242  THE     AKAUCANIANS. 

a  chosen  successor,  the  power  of  election  reverts  to 
the  people,  who  generally  create  a  new  Cazique  from 
among  the  Ghelmenes,  a  class  of  hereditary  nobles 
occupying  an  intermediate  position  between  the  chiefs 
and  the  common  herd. 

From  among  the  chiefs  of  the  various  districts  one 
is  selected  as  Toqui,  or  head  of  the  province.  The 
various  Toquis  form  what  is  termed  the  Council  of 
Peace ;  to  which,  under  ordinary  circumstances,  is  in- 
trusted the  general  supervision  of  the  nation.  This 
council  is  in  turn  presided  over  by  one  of  its  own 
members,  who  might  be  termed  the  President  of  the 
Peace  Council.  This  Grand  Toqui  is  the  highest 
officer  in  the  state :  to  him  it  belongs  to  watch  over 
the  common  weal;  to  give  notice  to  his  colleagues  of 
whatever  may  occur  of  general  importance;  to  adopt 
for  the  public  good  such  measures  as  may  be  rendered 
necessary  by  particular  emergencies ;  and  when  mo- 
mentous questions  arise,  to  call  together  a  general  as- 
sembly of  the  nation. 

In  these  general  assemblages,  though  the  discus- 
sion of  public  topics  is  mostly  left  to  experienced  and 
prominent  chiefs,  the  right  of  every  one  to  a  hearing 
is  admitted,  and  suggestions,  even  from  sources  least 
entitled  to  respect,  are  fully  considered,  if  deemed  of 
importance. 

These  national  councils,  which  are  but  seldom  con- 
vened, are  the  occasions  of  much  ostentation,  as  each 
one  strives  to  outdo  his  neighbor  in  rich  apparel, 
costly  ornaments,  and  fine  horses ;  they  are  also  ac- 
companied by  much  feasting,  drunkenness,  and  reVelry. 
The  consultations  of  the  day  are  usually  followed  by 


COUNCIL    OF    WAR.  243 

a  feast,  succeeded  by  bacchanalian  orgies,  continuing 
through  the  night,  and  often  during  the  following 
day,  until  headaches  and  satiety  induce  the  drunken 
legislators  to  resume  their  labors. 

Some  have  discovered  in  this  weakness  a  deep  de- 
sign, assuring  us  that  the  Araucanians  argue  topics 
of  importance  when  thirsty',  ponder  upon  them  when 
drunk,  and  decide  when  sober,  in  order  to  avoid  rash 
and  hasty  conclusions.  But  the  explanation,  though 
ingenious,  is  gratuitous.  The  Indian  gets  tipsy  for  the 
love  of  the  thing,  rather  than  for  the  sake  of  deriving 
any  wisdom  from  intoxication,  and  revels  after  his  pa- 
triotic labors  just  as  many  a  Congressman,  after  a  hard 
day's  work,  indulges  in  a  spree  by  way  of  relaxation. 

Laws  the  Araucanians  can  scarcely  be  said  to 
have,  though  there  are  many  ancient  usages  which 
they  hold  sacred  and  strictly  observe.  Nor  does 
their  mode  of  life  offer  those  inducements  to  ceaseless 
litigation  that  are  found  where  the  diversity  of  inter- 
ests is  greater.  Blood  is  avenged  by  blood  at  the 
hands  of  the  relatives  of  the  slain,  and  thefts  are 
satisfied  by  restoration  of  the  property  stolen,  or  a 
greater  amount,  as  may  be  decided  by  the  Cazique, 
to  whom  such  matters  are  referred. 

In  time  of  war  the  Araucanian  government  is  much 
more  efficient.  No  sooner  are  hostilities  resolved 
upon  than  the  Council  of  Peace  becomes  powerless, 
and  is  superseded  by  a  Council  of  War,  presided  over 
by  a  Toqui,  who,  during  the  continuance  of  the  war, 
has  an  unlimited  power,  except  over  life.  He  ap- 
points his  officers,  determines  upon  the  number  of 
men  requisite  for  the  army,  and  informs  the  Toqui  of 


244  THE    ARAUCANIANS. 

each  TJthal-Majpu  what  contingents  will  be  required 
from  his  province.  Men,  horses,  and  provisions,  are 
all  subject  to  his  control,  and  though  he  may  be  de- 
posed by  the  popular  vote,  he  is,  during  his  continu- 
ance in  office,  irresponsible  for  his  actions. 

When  the  war  is  ended  the  Council  of  Peace  once 
more  becomes  supreme,  and  the  Toqui  of  Peace  is 
again  recognized  as  the  head  of  the  government. 

Manin,  whom  we  were  about  to  visit,  has  held  this 
office  of  Toqui  of  Peace  for  more  than  twenty  years, 
and  great  is  the  respect  paid  to  his  authority,  not 
only  on  account  of  his  station  and  family,  but  still 
more  for  his  superior  wisdom,  for  he  has  done  more 
than  any  other  person  could  have  accomplished  to  heal 
the  domestic  dissensions  of  his  countrymen,  and  avoid 
collisions  from  abroad. 

We  were  accompanied  for  some  distance  upon  oui* 
road  by  a  Chileno  who  worked  for  a  neighboring  In- 
dian, receiving  for  his  labor  in  cultivating  the  land  a 
certain  percentage  of  the  produce.  There  are  many 
such  scattered  around  the  country,  mostly  fugitives 
from  justice,  picking  up  a  livelihood  by  doing  odd 
jobs.  Frequently  they  marry  native  women,  and 
rapidly  fall  to  a  level  with  the  Indians,  with  whom 
they  readily  assimilate,  preserving  no  distinction  ex- 
cept the  name  of  Christianity. 

Our  road  lay  to  the  eastward  until  we  rounded  a 
hill,  when  we  again  turned  to  the  south. 

Near  this  hill  we  stopped  to  barter  for  a  horse,  and 
I  was  much  struck  by  the  appearance  of  the  strag- 
glers drawn  together  by  our  arrival.  They  belonged  to 
the  warlike  tribe  of  Colyico,  and  were  physically  the 


PERSONAL     CHARACTERISTICS.        245 


finest  specimens  I  had  yet  seen  of  the  Mapuches,  be- 
ing taller  and  more  robust  than  the  generality  of  their 
countrymen.  In  this  respect  the  Araucanians  disap- 
pointed me,  for  they  by  no  means  came  up  to  my 
conceptions  of  the  "gente  indomitable,"  as  described 
by  Ercilla.  They  are  generally  of  about  the  middle 
height,  broad-chested,  thick  set,  inclined  with  age  to 
corpulency,  and,  as  a  race,  far  inferior  in  appearance 
to  the  North  American  aborigines.  The  calves  of 
their  legs  and  their  ankles  are  large  and  fleshy,  and 
the  foot,  though  very  short,  is  broad  and  high,  rising 
abruptly  from  the  big-toe  to  the  ankle  with  very  little 
curve.  The  head,  too,  of  the  Mapuch^  is  of  a  peculiar 
shape ;  it  is  narrow  and  low  in  front,  broad  and  high 
behind,  and  forms  almost  a  straight  line  with  the 
back  of  the  neck,  which  is  massive  and  short. 

This  marked  type  of  head  and  foot  is  found  univer- 
sally among  the  lower  classes  of  the  Chilenos,  and  to 
a  certain  extent  (according  as  the  old  Spanish  blood 
has  been  more  or  less  cori'upted)  among  the  highest 
classes  also.  So  much  is  this  the  case,  that  most 
foreigners  in  Santiago  experience  difficulty  in  procur- 
ing shoes,  which  are  always  found  to  be  too  broad, 
and  too  high  in  the  instep,  to  fit  the  European  foot. 
The  shape  of  the  head,  as  noticed  more  especially 
among  the  females,  who  wear  no  bonnets,  seldom 
fails  to  attract  the  stranger's  attention. 

These  facts  clearly  indicate  that  great  preponder- 
ance of  Indian  blood  in  the  people,  which  a  knowl- 
edge of  Chilian  history  would  naturally  lead  us  to  ex- 
pect, for  the  "peons"  are  but  the  descendants  of  sub- 
jugated Indian  tribes,  and  we  know  that  the  Spanish 


246  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

conquerors,  being  military  adventurers,  with  few  ex- 
ceptions, brought  no  families  with  them,  but  on  set- 
tling down  in  the  country,  intermarried  with  the  na- 
tive women. 

The  Chilenos  themselves  are  apt  to  ignore  these 
truths,  and  the  epithet  "  Indio"  is  resented  as  a  most 
insulting  term  of  abuse.  On  one  occasion  Lieuten- 
ant Gilliss  having  sent  to  the  statistical  office  to  in- 
quire the  relative  proportion  of  pure  and  mixed  races 
in  the  country,  was  answered,  rather  indignantly, 
that  there  was  scarcely  one  Chileno  in  ten  with  a 
drop  of  Indian  blood  in  his  veins !  Had  the  answer 
been  that  there  was  scarcely  one  in  a  hundred  of  un- 
mixed Spanish  origin,  it  would  have  been  much  nearer 
the  truth. 

Several  of  the  Indians  that  we  saw  at  Colyico  were 
painted  with  red  and  black,  and,  owing  perhaps  to  the 
streaks  about  their  eyes,  looked  unpleasantly  scowl- 
ing. Though  their  manner  was  friendly  and  respect- 
fiil,  I  could  not  help  thinking  that  I  was  too  hasty 
in  packing  away  my  revolver  in  the  valise,  as  a 
useless  encumbrance ;  but  this  feeling  soon  wore  off. 
Sanchez,  as  well  as  the  rest  of  the  party,  carried  no 
arms  except  the  "  machete,"  a  long  knife  which  every 
"  Guaso"  considers  indispensable  for  all  the  manifold 
purposes  of  cooking,  eating,  and  horse-doctoring.  At 
the  outset  he  had  advised  me  to  carry  no  arms,  assuring 
me  that  I  would  travel  more  safely  than  in  any  other 
part  of  Chili,  and  for  aught  we  saw  to  the  contrary, 
he  was  right. 

On  resuming  our  journey  we  distributed  among 'the 
by-standers  a  few  handkerchiefs  and  Jew's-harps,  with 


JEWS-HARPS. 


247 


which,  especially  with  the  latter,  they  seemed  much 
pleased. 

This  instrument  has  become  national  with  the 
Mapuches,  as  much  so  as  the  guitar  with  the  Span- 
iards, and  no  young  gallant  is  considered  fiilly  equipped 
and  provisioned  to  lay  siege  to  a  lady's  heart  if 
unprovided  with  a  Jew's-harp.  As  the  troubadours 
of  old  wore  their  lutes  suspended  from  the  neck  by 
silken  cords,  so  the  Mapuche  lover  carries  always 
with  him  his  amatory  Jew's-harp,  hanging  upon  his 
breast,  dangling  from  a  string  of  many-colored  beads, 
and  carefully  tied  upon  a  little  block  of  wood. 

The  Indians  play  this  simple  instrument  very  well, 
and  almost  entirely  by  inhaling  instead  of  exhaling. 
They  have  ways  of  expressing  various  emotions  by 
diiferent  modes  of  playing,  all  of  which  the  Araucanian 
damsels  seem  ftdly  to  appreciate,  although  I  must  con- 
fess that  I  could  not. 

The  lover  usually  seats  himself  at  a  distance  from 
the  object  of  his  passion,  and  gives  vent  to  his  feelings 
in  doleful  sounds,  indicating  the  maiden  of  his  choice 
by  slyly  gesturing,  winking,  and  rolling  his  eyes  to- 
ward her.  This  style  of  courtship  is  certainly  senti- 
mental, and  might  be  recommended  to  some  more  civ- 
ilized lovers,  who  always  lose  the  use  of  their  tongues 
at  the  very  time  they  are  most  needed. 

With  the  dulcet  strains  of  half  a  dozen  German 
Jew's-harps  still  echoing  in  our  ears,  we  plunged  into 
a  dense  thicket,  entering  one  of  those  primeval  for- 
ests that  skirt  the  first  ranges  of  the  Cordilleras ; 
standing,  as  they  have  stood  for  centuries,  undisturbed 
in  their  solemn  majesty,  and  never  resounding  to  the 


248  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

stroke  of  the  woodman's  ax.  The  silence  was  impos- 
ing :  there  was  no  sound  of  bird  nor  other  living  thing, 
and  though  we  kept  a  bright  look  out  for  the  diminu- 
tive deer  that  are  said  to  abound,  we  saw  nothing  to 
indicate  their  presence. 

Many  of  the  trees  were  of  species  entirely  new  to 
me,  rising  frequently  with  immense  trunks  to  great 
heights,  without  branches,  and  leafless  except  at  their 
summits ;  but  twined  and  festooned  with  innumerable 
creeping  vines,  prominent  among  which  was  the  grace- 
ful "copigue,"  gorgeous  with  its  crimson  blossoms. 
Underneath  there  was  but  little  bush,  except  where 
the  "  coligue,"  growing  in  dense  brakes,  lifted  its  taper 
points,  twisting  and  intertwining  high  in  air,  almost 
like  creeping  vines. 

But  there  was  little  time  to  stop  and  admire,  for 
the  tortuous  path  wound  among  rocks,  between  thick 
trees,  over  stumps  and  fallen  trunks,  keeping  us  con- 
tinually on  the  alert  to  avoid  barking  our  shins,  or 
twisting  our  feet ;  while  at  intervals  we  were  obliged 
to  lie  forward  over  the  horses'  necks,  in  passing  be- 
neath the  matted  coligues  arching  overhead.  Some- 
times we  would  plunge  down  steep  gullies,  flounder- 
ing about  in  deep  quagmires,  faced  by  slippery  banks. 
The  path,  by  frequent  travel,  was  deeply  worn,  and 
altogether  it  seemed  to  me  rather  the  worst  specimen 
of  a  road  I  had  ever  seen. 

As  we  picked  our  way  cautiously,  in  single  file,  we 
were  overtaken  by  an  Indian,  whose  approach  was 
first  announced  by  a  loud  salutation,  '•^  Mari-mari 
ejpxiT  ("Good  day  both  of  you!")  breaking  the  still- 
ness of  the  forest.    E-iding  up,  he  began  speechifying  at 


I 


KETREDEGUIN.  249 

Sanchez,  droning  over  the  usual  compliments  in  the 
most  approved  style  of  polite  monotony.  This  was 
carried  on  for  nearly  an  hour,  and  was  evidently  in- 
tended to  relieve  the  tedium  of  the  journey ;  but  upon 
me  it  had  an  opposite  effect,  and  I  should  have  faUen 
asleep  in  the  saddle,  if  not  aroused  by  an  occasional 
bump  against  the  trees. 

Leaving  the  woods,  we  came  out  upon  a  fine  plain, 
studded  with  clumps  of  trees,  and  saw,  for  the  first 
time,  the  summit  of  Ketredeguin,  directly  to  the  east- 
ward. This  prominent  peak  is  a  truncated  cone,  pre- 
senting every  appearance  of  a  volcano,  not  only  from 
its  form  and  color,  but  from  thfe  fact  that  while  the 
-  base  is  covered  with  snow,  the  top  is  perfectly  bare. 
No  smoke  was  visible ;  nor  could  I  learn  of  any  for- 
mer eruptions,  though  a  half  breed,  familiar  with  the 
mountain  districts,  asserted  that  he  had  seen  smoke 
issuing  from  a  vent  hole  upon  the  eastern  decKvity, 
and  others,  who  had  visited  the  neighborhood,  in- 
formed me  that  around  the  base  there  are  large  beds 
of  scoria. 

As  most  of  the  Chilian  volcanoes  are  slumbering, 
exhibiting,  only  at  long  intervals,  slight  signs  of  activ- 
ity, it  is  probable  that  Ketredeguin  is  one  of  these  dor- 
mant volcanoes,  the  number  of  which,  in  the  Andes  of 
Chili,  I  have  reasons  for  believing  much  greater  than 
is  generally  supposed. 

L* 


CHAPTEE    XXII. 

Visit  to  Maiiin. — Origin  and  Traditions  of  the  Mapuch^s. — Distri- 
bution of  Presents. — Munchausen  Stories. — ^Adoption. — Namcu- 
Lauquen. — Names. 

The  regal  palace  of  Manin  is  situated  in  a  pretty, 
open  nook,  backed  by  wood-crowned  hills,  at  whose 
feet  winds  a  crystal  brook,  dancing  merrily  over 
its  pebbly  bed.  With  its  green  meadows,  pure 
waters,  and  lofty  trees,  this  seemed  one  of  the  love- 
liest spots  in  what  is  undoubtedly  the  finest  por- 
tion of  Chili.  Sanchez  extolled  the  fertility  of  the 
soil. 

"  If  these  barbarians  could  only  be  expelled,"  he 
said,  "we  Christians  would  soon  get  rid  of  the 
trees!" 

"  Better,"  I  answered,  "  that  the  barbarians  remain, 
and  that  the  trees  be  allowed  to  stand." 

"What  are  they  good  for?"  was  the  reply. 

We  found  the  house  in  no  way  differing  from  the 
ordinary  Indian  houses,  except  that  it  was  larger  than 
usual,  being  about  eighty  feet  long  by  thirty  broad. 
The  "ramada"  (or  shed,  serving  as  a  protection  from 
the  sun),  was  very  large,  of  the  same  length  as  the 
house,  before  which  it  stood,  and  about  sixty  feet 
wide.  It  was  supported  by  some  five  rows  of  po'sts, 
twelve  or  fifteen  feet  high,  and  was  capable  of  holding 


VISIT     TO     MAN  IN.  251 

a  large  number  of  persons.  It  had  doubtless  been 
built  with  a  view  to  accommodate  the  congress  of 
chiefs  that  occasionally  assembles  here  for  consulta- 
tions. Along  one  of  the  sides  was  a  rude  divan,  raised 
two  or  three  feet  from  the  ground,  and  about  four  feet 
wide,  constructed  of  rough-hewn  planks  supported  on 
logs.  The  back  of  this  sofa  was  formed  by  the  huge 
trunk  of  some  former  monarch  of  the  grove — the 
whole  was  spread  with  sheep-skins  covered  with  pon- 
chos. Upon  this  seat  of  honor  reclined  Manin  as  we 
approached. 

"  I  bring  you  the  son  of  your  old  friend  Vega,"  said 
Sanchez. 

"Vega!"  exclaimed  the  old  man  rising,  with  an 
air  of  surprise;  and  seizing  my  hand,  he  pressed  it 
to  his  heart.  This  token  of  affection  I  reciprocated, 
not  without  some  compunctions  of  conscience  at  the 
manner  in  which  I  had  insinuated  myself  into  the 
confidence  of  the  noble  savage,  accompanied  by  the 
pleasant  reflection  that,  if  detected  in  my  villany,  not 
only  that  confidence  but  my  ears  also  might  be  for- 
feited. 

After  an  interchange  of  very  hyperbolical  compli- 
ments, we  were  told  to  be  seated  on  the  divan,  and 
leaving  pleasure  to  follow  business,  the  Toqui  began 
sounding  Sanchez  as  to  the  movements  and  inten- 
tions of  the  Chilian  government.  He  seemed  ill  at 
ease  about  the  intended  visit  of  the  President,  fearing 
that  it  boded  no  good  to  the  Indians,  and  his  con- 
science was  evidently  troubled  by  the  reflection  that, 
in  the  late  civil  war,  he  had  taken  an  unnecessarily 
prominent  part  in  favor  of  the  unsuccessful  revolution- 


252  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

ists,  a  crime  which  he  could  hardly  hope  had  been 
forgotten. 

During  this  hig-talk  I  amused  myself  by  examin- 
ing the  appearance  of  the  old  chief  and  his  domestic 
arrangements. 

"  Manin-Hueno"  (The  Grass  of  Heaven),  or,  as  he 
is  generally  called  by  the  Chilenos,  "Manin-Bueno 
(^.  e,,  The  Good),  is  very  old,  his  age  being  variously 
estimated  at  from  ninety  to  a  hundred,  and  even 
more ;  but  in  his  appearance  there  is  little  to  indicate 
so  advanced  an  age.  Erect,  though  not  vigorous, 
with  a  bright  piercing  eye,  and  his  long  black  hair, 
but  sparsely  scattered  with  gray,  he  might  be  taken 
for  a  person  of  sixty.  His  nose  is  slightly  aquiline, 
his  cheek  deeply  furrowed,  his  chin  massive,  and  his 
whole  air  is  that  of  one  of  strong  will  and  accustomed 
to  command.  His  voice  is  deep,  but  not  harsh,  and 
he  speaks  deliberately,  as  though  weighing  well  the 
import  of  his  words  ;  he  also  listens  attentively^  as 
becomes  one  chosen  for  his  superior  wisdom  to  pre- 
side over  the  Avelfare  of  the  nation. 

The  dress  of  the  Grand  Toqui  was  not,  it  must  be 
confessed,  such  at  might  have  been  expected,  con- 
sidering his  exalted  rank.  He  wore  a  shirt  that 
probably  had  been  used  for  several  months  without 
washing,  a  ragged  military  vest,  and  a  poncho,  tied 
round  the  waist  and  falling  to  the  feet  like  a  petti- 
coat; a  red  and  yellow  handkerchief  surmounted  his 
head  and  completed  his  costume.  I  noticed,  how- 
ever, hanging  overhead  a  bridle,  bit,  headstall,  and 
reins,  covered  with  massive  silver  ornaments ;  'and 
though  the  powerful  Manin  is  generally  considered  a 


I 


MAN  IN.  253 

poor  chief,  two  hundred  hard  dollars  would  scarcely 
have  furnished  the  silver  lavished  upon  his  various 
horse  trappings. 

Near  us  hung  several  joints  of  suspicious-looking 
meat,  the  remains  of  a  cow  that  had  been  found 
dead  and  cut  up  for  use.  Under  the  circumstances 
we  did  not  regret  that  no  meat  was  set  before  us, 
though  we  were  regaled  with  toasted  wheat  and 
"mudai."  The  dishes  and  spoons  were  wooden, 
nor  did  we  either  upon  this  or  upon  any  other  occa- 
sion catch  a  glimpse  of  those  massive  silver  plates 
which  the  Araucanian  chiefs  are  often  represented  as 
setting  before  their  guests.  The  Mapuches  are  very 
extravagant  in  ornamenting  their  horses  and  wives, 
but  in  no  other  respect  do  they  display  much  barbaric 
magnificence,  and  they  care  more  about  the  quantity 
of  their  food  than  about  the  style  in  which  it  is 
served  up. 

So  soon  as  the  affairs  of  the  nation  had  been  fully 
discussed,  Maiiin  turned  to  me  and  made  many  in- 
quiries about  my  father  and  friends.  Though  it  puz- 
zled me  to  give  the  exact  number  of  my  brothers  and 
sisters,  and  to  tell  whether  my  mother  was  living  or 
dead,  my  story  was  plausible  enough,  and  seemed  to 
be  satisfactory. 

Next  followed  questions  about  Spain,  Buenos  Ayres, 
and  Lima,  marked  by  shrewdness,  and  displaying 
more  geographical  knowledge  than  I  expected ;  par- 
ticular inquiries  were  made  about  the  Spanish  gov- 
ernment, and  the  probability  of  its  ever  reconquer- 
ing the  Chilenos;  for,  strange  to  say,  these  people 
cherish  a  strong  love  for  the    Spaniards  (in  contra- 


254  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

distinction  to  the  Chilenos).  They  long  for  the  re- 
turn of  those  days  of  vice-regal  power,  when  the  be- 
hests of  the  king  were  communicated  through  "parla- 
mentos,"  at  which  the  chiefs  were  received  with  trum- 
pets, banners,  presents,  and  other  marks  of  respect 
calculated  to  conciliate  and  flatter.  Under  the  repub- 
lic an  opposite  system  is  pursued;  the  Indians  are 
generally  treated  with  ill-disguised  contempt,  and  they 
do  not  fail  to  perceive  the  diiference. 

The  fact  that  the  present  Spanish  sovereign  is  a 
queen,  caused  much  surprise;  the  old  savage  was 
unable  to  comprehend  that  a  woman  could  occupy  any 
other  than  a  subordinate  position  in  any  well-regulated 
community. 

I  tried  to  discover  whether  the  Indians  retain  any 
traditions  of  times  anterior  to  the  Spanish  conquests, 
especially  of  the  encroachments  of  the  Peruvian  Incas ; 
but  I  was  surprised  to  find  that  their  historical  recol- 
lections extend  scarcely  farther  back  than  the  wars 
of  the  South  American  independence.  In  regard  to 
the  Spanish  conquests  they  have  but  the  most  vague 
and  confused  ideas.  The  ruins  of  the  "  cities  of  the 
plain"  are  scattered  in  their  midst ;  ditches,  orchards, 
and  other  traces  of  a  superior  cultivation  still  mark 
the  site  of  the  once  flourishing  establishments  of  the 
Jesuits.  But  the  Indian  passes  by  aU  these  in  silence. 
He  has  an  indistinct  remembrance  that  the  white 
man  once  floui-ished  here — he  recalls  the  mysterious 
influence  exerted  over  his  people  by  the  children  of 
Loyola — perhaps  he  has  heard  the  old  men  recount  the 
terrors  of  a  conflict  long  since  past;  but  the  de^ds, 
the  very  names  of  those  who  restored  their  country  to 


MAPUCHE     TRADITIONS.  255 

freedom  are  forgotten.  Some  of  the  questions  which 
I  wished  to  ask  respecting  the  wars  with  the  Span- 
iards, Sanchez  thought  it  better  not  to  interpret,  as- 
suring me  that  the  Indians  were  entirely  ignorant  on 
the  subject,  and  he  thought  it  well  that  they  should 
remain  so. 

As  far  as  I  could  learn,  the  Mapuches  have  no 
idea  whatsoever  of  their  origin,  but  assert  that  they 
always  lived  in  the  same  place  and  manner  as  at 
present ;  nor  have  they  any  traditions  respecting  the 
deluge.* 

*  Molina  says  that  they  assert  at  times  that  their  ancestors  came 
from  the  East,  and  at  others  that  they  came  across  the  sea  from  the 
West.     Again  he  says : 

"The  Chilians  call  their  first  progenitors  Peiii  Epatun,  which 
signifies  the  brothers  Epatun ;  but  of  these  patriarchs  nothing  but 
the  name  is  given.  They  also  call  them  'Glyce,'  primitive  men, 
or  men  from  the  beginning,  and  in  their  assemblies  invoke  them, 
together  with  their  deities,  crying  out  with  a  loud  voice  'Pom, 
pum,  pum,  mari,  mari,  Epunamum  Aninxalguen  Peni  Epatun!' 
The  signification  of  the  first  three  words  is  uncertain,  and  they  might 
be  considered  as  interjections,  did  not  the  word  '  pum,'  by  which  the 
Chinese  call  the  first  created  man,  or  the  one  saved  from  the  waters, 
induce  a  suspicion,  from  its  similarity,  that  these  have  a  similar  sig- 
nification. The  '  Lamas,'  or  priests  of  Thibet,  from  the  accounts  of 
natives  of  Hindostan,  are  accustomed  to  repeat  on  their  rosaries  the 
syllables  hom,  ha,  hum,  or  om,  am,  um,  which,  in  some  measure, 
corresponds  with  what  we  have  mentioned  of  the  Chilenos."  (Mol. 
Hist.  Chil.,  Vol.  ii.  Chap,  i.,  Eng.  Trans.) 

According  to  Hooker  in  his  "Himalayan  Journals,"  lately  publish- 
ed, the  universal  Buddhist  formula  is  "  Om  mani  padmi  om"  (z.  e. 
"  Hail  to  him  of  the  lotus  flower  and  the  jewel !").  These  are  evi- 
dently the  words  of  a  prayer  referred  to  by  Molina,  but  when  their 
meaning  is  understood,  they  seem  to  have  no  relationship  to  the  Ma- 
puche  words  given. 

Molina  also  informs  us  that  these  Indians  have  a  tradition  about 
a  deluge ;  but  from  the  details  given  he  thinks  it  must  refer  to 
some  volcanic  eruption,  accompanied  by  a  flood  and  earthquakes. 


256  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

The  old  chief,  learning  that  I  had  been  somewhat 
of  a  traveler,  was  anxious  to  gain  information  about 
countries  of  which  he  had  heard  much:  as,  for  in- 
stance, the  land  of  pigmies,  that  of  the  giants,  and 
that  in  which  the  people  carry  their  heads  under  their 
arms :  all  these  regions  had  been  described  to  him  bj 
the  traders  who  had  often  visited  them  in  the  pursuits 
of  commerce ;  but  I  was  forced  to  acknowledge  that  I 
had  never  visited  either  Lilliput,  or  Brogdignag.  He 
did  not  know  that  he  had  been,  all  his  life,  in 
close  proximity  to  the  most  renowned  giants  of  the 
world,  and  was  surprised  to  learn  the  fabulous  repu- 
tation of  his  neighbors,  the  Patagonians.  Both  he  and 
Sanchez  had  roamed  over  the  plains  of  Patagonia, 
where  they  had  met  many  nomadic  tribes,  mostly 
Mapuches ;  but  though  those  Araucanians  who  live 
among  the  mountains,  and  are  larger  and  more  ath- 
letic than  those  dwelling  in  the  plains,  frequently 
wander  as  far  as  the  Strait  of  Magellan,  he  had 
never  met  any  of  them  that  equaled  the  gigantic  pro- 
portions of  the  people  described  by  the  early  naviga- 
tors. 

So  far  we  had  been  unmolested  by  women,  children, 
and  the  usual  hangers-on,  who  kept  at  a  respectful 
distance,  only  venturing  to  approach  when  summoned 
by  Maiiin ;  but  the  moment  the  baggage  was  opened, 
and  it  was  understood  that  there  was  to  be  a  distribu- 
tion of  presents,  they  began  to  appear  in  every  direc- 

This  explanation  is  plausible,  and  the  event  referred  to  was  probably 
an  earthquake  like  those  that  destroyed  Concepcion  and  Valparaiso, 
when  the  sea,  after  retiring  from  the  shore,  rushed  back  and  over- 
whelmed the  ruined  cities. 


PRESENTS.  257 

tion,  though  still  hanging  back  until  called  by  name. 
First  came  the  wives,  eight  in  number,  to  each  of 
whom  was  given  an  ounce  of  indigo,  a  string  of  beads, 
and  a  dozen  brass  thimbles.  One  of  the  wives,  named 
Juana,  laid  claim  to  an  extra  string  of  beads  on  the 
score  of  being  a  Christian.  She  was  rather  pretty, 
and  had  once  been  white,  though  burnt  by  exposure 
to  near  the  Indian  complexion.  When  a  child  she 
was  captured  from  the  whites ;  and  on  the  conclusion 
of  peace,  having  become  habituated  to  the  Indian 
mode  of  life,  she  preferred  remaining  as  the  favorite 
wife  of  a  powerful  chief  to  returning  to  her  parents, 
who  were  of  humble  position.  She  had  several  pretty 
children  and  one  grown-up  daughter,  who  was  absent 
at  the  time. 

After  the  women,  the  children  came  trooping  in, 
some  twenty  in  number.  And  I  was  surprised,  con- 
sidering the  advanced  age  of  Manin,  to  see  among 
them  two  or  three  stiU  at  the  breast,  brought  by  their 
mothers  to  receive  a  share  of  the  spoils.  Each  one 
received  a  bright  cotton  handkerchief  and  a  Jew's-harp, 
or  a  string  of  beads ;  and  two  or  three  of  the  young 
men,  the  oldest  of  whom  was  about  twenty,  received 
a  double  share,  out  of  consideration  for  their  years. 

The  air  was  immediately  vocal  with  the  sound  of 
sweet  music  made  by  a  score  of  youngsters  capering 
about  with  red  and  yellow  handkerchiefs  on  their 
heads,  and,  attracted  by  the  dulcet  harmony,  a  dozen 
men  and  women,  old  and  young,  came  shuffling  in 
from  as  many  different  directions.  Each  one  was  in- 
troduced as  some  near  relation  of  the  chief,  and  as 
such,  of  course,  was  entitled  to  something. 


258  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

But  the  climax  was  capped  by  the  presentation  to 
Manin  himself  of  a  pair  of  gold  epaulets.  (As  they 
had  belonged  to  an  officer  long  since  dead,  and  of  a 
rank  now  abolished  in  the  Chilian  army,  I  got  them 
chewp).  These  were  the  admiration  of  all  beholders, 
and  were  accompanied  by  a  very  complimentary 
speech,  to  the  effect  that  "they  had  been  selected  not 
for  their  value,  but  as  emblems  of  authority  worthy 
of  one  who,  both  in  peace  and  in  war,  had  been  pre- 
eminent among  his  countrymen,"  etc. 

The  old  gentleman  was  overwhelmed,  but  preserved 
a  dignified  composure,  and  tried  to  take  it  aU  as  a 
matter  of  course,  though  he  told  Sanchez,  confiden- 
tially, that  he  could  not  find  words  to  express  his 
gratitude — adding,  in  parenthesis,  that  he  only  re- 
gretted 7wt  having  a  coat  good  enough  for  the  epau- 
lets. He  was  sorry  that,  having  sent  all  his  animals 
off  to  the  mountains,  he  could  not  acknowledge  my 
gift  on  the  spot  by  one  of  his  best  horses  ;  but  he  in- 
tended to  send  some  of  his  young  men  to  Concepcion 
in  the  spring,  and  he  would  avail  himself  of  the  op- 
portunity to  forward  me  a  suitable  present. 

This  was  but  in  accordance  with  established  usage, 
for  the  Mapuches  are  essentially  a  bartering  people. 
Whatever  present  is  made,  or  favor  conferred,  is  con- 
sidered as  something  to  be  returned ;  and  the  Indian 
never  fails,  though  months  and  years  may  intervene, 
to  repay  what  he  conscientiously  thinks  an  exact 
equivalent  for  the  thing  received. 

The  presents  naturally  led  the  old  gentleman,  who 
possessed  an  enlightened  curiosity  not  common 'to  his 
race,  to   inquire  about  the  people  who  manufacture 


M  U  N  C  H  A  U  S  E  N  I  S  M  S.  259 

knives,  guns,  etc.  He  wished  particularly  to  know 
if  I  had  visited  '-^  Lancatu-Mwpu^''  (the  Country  of 
Glass  Beads).  Supposing  that  he  referred  to  Ger- 
many, I  answered  in  the  affirmative. 

"Is  it  true,"  he  asked,  "that  the  beads  grow  upon 
trees  in  the  land  of  the  setting  sun,  and  that  they  who 
gather  them  ride  into  the  country  at  night  on  swift 
horses,  and  return  laden  before  the  rising  of  the  sun, 
whose  first  rays  would  burn  them  to  death  ?" 

I  felt  indignant  that  any  one,  to  enhance  the  value 
of  his  wares,  should  have  told  such  a  Munchausen 
story  to  the  too  credulous  savage,  and  answered  ac- 
cordingly. But  Sanchez  dropped  me  a  hint  about 
"people  in  glass  houses,"  and  translated  my  reply  in 
a  manner  not  calcxdated  to  disturb  the  old  gentleman's 
faith.  He  feared,  perhaps,  to  endanger  those  who 
had  fabricated  the  fable.  It  may  be  that  he  himself 
felt  some  interest  in  its  promulgation. 

We  also  gave  the  chief  some  tobacco,  and  handing 
it  to  his  wife  she  soon  returned  with  a  pipe  made  of  a 
dark  stone  (probably  soapstone),  with  a  straw  inserted 
for  a  stem. 

These  people  are  excessively  fond  of  tobacco,  which 
they  procure  from  the  Chilenos,  and,  to  some  extent, 
from  the  Pehuenches,  who  bring  it  from  Buenos  Ayres. 
Often  to  get  the  full  benefit  of  a  little,  and  to  "make 
drunk  come,"  they  swallow  the  smoke,  which  produces 
stupefaction  and  a  species  of  convulsions.  The  smoker 
<  while  in  this  state,  is  allowed  to  lie  for  some  time  upon 
jthe  ground ;  a  drink  of  cold  water  is  then  given  him, 
land  he  immediately  recovers.  Chewing  is  a  degree  of 
civilization  to  which  the  Mapuches  have  not  attained. 


260 


THE     A  11  A  U  C  A  N  I  A  N  S. 


What  with  the  effects  of  the  pipe  and  the  recollec- 
tion of  favors  received,  the  old  chief  became  more  and 
more  attached  to  the  son  of  his  old  companion-in- 
arms :  and  when  Sanchez  told  him  that  I  desired  to 
learn  the  language  of  his  people  and  become  as  one 
of  them,  he  promised  to  make  me  "  lacuC  (namesake) 
to  one  of  his  favorite  sons,  thereby  adopting  me  into 
his  family. 


INDIAN  MODE  OP   SLEEPING. 


As  night  came  on,  several  of  my  mothers  and 
brothers  in  prospective — for  all  of  whom  there  was 
not  sleeping  room  in  the  house — ^began  to  huddle  to- 
gether on  the  divans  with  little  other  bedding  than 
the  clothes  they  had  worn  by  day.  For  me,'  as  a 
member  of  the  family,  in  posse,  they  spread  a  hide 


N  AMCU-LAUQUEN.  261 


r 

^P  near  by.  Upon  this  I  made  up  my  bed ;  but  it  soon 
■  appeared  that  my  royal  relatives  were  neither  savory 
H  nor  good-mannered — treating  me  with  a  brotherly 
H  familiarity  well  calculated  to  breed  contempt — and 
K  jumping  up,  without  stopping  to  dress,  I  started  off 
H  for  the  tall  grass,  dragging  my  bed  after  me.  A  shout 
U  of  laughter  followed  my  precipitate  flight,  but  I  kept 
on,  and  finding  Sanchez  lying  out  in  the  open  mead- 
ow, put  down  my  bed  beside  him. 

There  was  no  reason  to  regret  the  change,  for  the 
night  was  beautifully  clear,  and  the  stars  shone  with 
that  peculiar  brilliancy  which  I  have  never  seen 
equaled  elsewhere  than  in  the  pure,  dry  atmosphere 
of  Chili. 

Next  morning  early,  a  bright,  intelligent  boy,  about 
eleven  years  old,  rejoicing  in  the  title  of  '-'"Naifricu-Lau- 
quen'''  ("  The  Eaglet  of  the  Sea"),  the  name  by  which 
I  was  in  future  to  be  known,  was  brought  up  and  in- 
troduced as  my  "lacu."  I  immediately  ornamented 
his  head  with  a  brilliant  handkerchief,"  and  he  started 
off  for  the  sheep-fold,  knife  in  hand,  to  kill  a  lamb  for 
my  use. 

When  the  lamb  was  cooked,  the  boy's  mother  ap- 
proached, and  placed  before  me,  on  the  ground,  a  huge 
wooden  trencher  containing  one  half  the  animal  boiled. 
At  the  same  time  Manin  told  me  to  accept  it  as  a  tes- 
timonial of  lacuship  from  his  son,  who  hoped  to  be 
able,  at  some  future  day,  to  set  before  me  a  larger 
animal,  accompanied  by  wine,  as  a  feast  more  worthy 
of  the  relationship  established  between  us. 

I  had  often  heard  that  among  the  Indians  it  is  a 
point  of  etiquette,  the  neglect  of  which  is  never  par- 


262  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

doned,  to  eat  all  that  is  set  before  you;  and  as  I 
looked  first  at  the  dish,  then  at  the  faces  of  the  com- 
pany, who  were  evidently  expecting  me  to  do  some- 
thing, I  was  sorely  perplexed  by  the  Brogdignagian 
meal  that  seemed  inevitable.  But  Sanchez,  seeing 
me  in  trouble,  came  to  the  rescue,  offered  to  act  as 
my  proxy,  seized  the  meat,  and  tearing  it  to  pieces 
with  his  fingers,  gave  a  portion  to  each  one  present. 
Soon  after  a  rich  mutton  broth  followed. 

Having  thus  eaten  myself  into  the  family,  I  was 
presented  to  the  women  and  children,  respectively, 
as  son  and  brother,  and  was  greeted  with  the  name 
oi  J^amcu-Lauquen,  or  (as  names  are  generally  abbre- 
viated by  dropping  one  or  two  syllables)  Namculan. 

The  giving  of  a  name  establishes  between  the  name- 
sakes a  species  of  relationship  which  is  considered  al- 
most as  sacred  as  that  of  blood,  and  obliges  them  to 
render  to  each  other  certain  services,  and  that  consid- 
eration which  naturally  belongs  to  relatives. 

Names  among  the  Mapuches  were  originally  given, 
as  among  all  primitive  people,  to  designate  certain 
traits  of  character  and  appearance,  or  they  were  de- 
rived from  particular  circumstances,  as  Eujpuelev  (The 
Winner  of  two  Races),  Katri-Lao  (The  Red  Lion) ; 
but  the  necessity  of  distinguishing  families  caused  the 
latter  part  of  the  father's  name  to  be  transmitted  to 
the  children,  with  some  modifications  to  distinguish 
individuals.  Thus  arose  such  family  names  as  Hueno 
(Heaven),  Coy  am,  (Oak),  Lemu  (Forest),  etc.,  anal- 
agous  to  names  which  will  readily  occur  to  any  one 
in  the  various  European  tongues.  • 

Still,  though  surnames  are  becoming  more  fixed 


MAPUCHE     NAMES.  263 

with  time,  national  usage  makes  it  optional  with  pa- 
rents to  transmit  their  own  names  to  their  children 
or  not ;  and  frequently,  in  a  large  family,  no  two  will 
be  found  whose  names  bear  any  relation  to  each  other. 
My  adopted  father,  supposing  that  in  paying  him  a 
visit  I  had  accomplished  my-  only  object,  proposed  to 
me,  instead  of  continuing  with  the  traders,  to  remain 
with  him  for  a  few  days,  at  the  end  of  which  time  he 
contemplated  a  visit  to  the  frontier,  and  woiild  con- 
duct me  on  my  way  as  far  as  San  Carlos.  The  prop- 
osition rather  puzzled  me ;  but  thanking  him  for  the 
offer,  I  suggested  that  as  he  spoke  no  Spanish,  and  I 
no  Indian,  the  inability  to  comprehend  each  other 
would  prove  a  serious  drawback  to  the  pleasure  that 
such  an  arrangement  would  otherwise  afford.  He  ap- 
preciated the  justness  of  the  remark,  and  thought  it 
better  for  me  to  accompany  Sanchez,  adding,  that  as 
I  had  become  a  Mapuche,  the  opportunity  would  be  a 
good  one  to  make  the  acquaintance  of  my  countrymen. 


CHAPTER    XXIII. 

Shaving. — Hair-pulling. — Katrilao. — Begging  versus  Taxation. — New 
traveling  Companion. — Mule  Doctoring  extraordinary. — Tlie  good 
Omen. — Religion  of  the  Mapuches. — Sacrifices  and  Libations. — 
Christian  Missions. 

Having  obtained,  with  so  little  difficulty,  the  cov- 
eted permission  to  go  wherever  we  pleased,  we  started 
back  to  join  the  rest  of  our  party  at  Chancay's. 

On  the  road  we  stopped  several  times,  and  Sanchez 
lost  no  opportunity  of  recounting  my  story.  I  was 
gratified  by  the  general  disposition  manifested  to  treat 
me  with  the  consideration  due  to  a  "prince  of  the 
realm.  There  seemed  to  be  no  jealousy  excited  by 
the  prospect  of  a  foreign  dynasty,  nor  any  desire  to 
question  the  validity  of  my  title ;  and  had  I  seen  fit 
to  settle  down,  I  could  no  doubt  have  become  the 
owner  of  unnumbered  acres,  and  the  lord  of  as  many 
wives  as  I  had  the  means  to  purchase. 

Near  the  brooklet  of  Colyico,  which  gives  its  name 
to  the  surrounding  district,  we  passed  through  an  ex- 
tensive field  thickly  studded  with  graves.  The  mould- 
ering mementoes  bore  evidence  of  ages  long  past — it 
may  have  been  the  site  of  some  sanguinary  battle, 
whose  name  has  perished  with  those  alike  of  the  victor 
and  the  vanquished.  It  may  have  been  simply  a  bu- 
rial-place for  former  generations :  if  so,  it  would  imply 
a  more  dense  population  than  that  now  found  in  the 


SHAVING. 


265 


vicinity,  as  well  as  different  customs  from  those  which 
now  obtain ;  for  the  modern  graves  in  this  neighbor- 
hood are  found  solitary,  or  in  groups  of  two  or  three, 
and  contrary  to  the  practice  farther  to  the  north,  gener- 
ally near  the  house  where  the  deceased  formerly  resided. 

At  one  house  where  we  stopped  I  saw  an  Indian, 
who,  at  first  sight,  seemed  to  be  a  white  man,  from 
the  fact  that  his  beard  was  grown  as  though  unshorn 
for  a  week.  He  looked  red  and  blotched,  and  was 
continually  raising  his  hand  to  some  part  of  his  face 
— wearing  all  the  while  an  expression  of  patient  en- 
durance. A  closer  scrutiny  showed  that  he  was  en- 
gaged in  shaving.  These  Indians  pull  out,  or  nip  off 
the  beard  with  small  steel  tweezers.  This  instrument 
was  originally  (as  the  Mapuche  name  signifies)  a  clam 
shell ;  but  by  intercourse  with  the  whites,  they  have 
been  enabled  to  procure  a  more  elegant  article.  Every 
dandy  carries  his  tweezers  dangling  fi-om  his  neck,  and 
at  leisure  moments  amuses  himself  by  smoothing  his 
face  to  the  taste  of  his  painted  mistress. 

The  arguments  they  adduce  in  defense  of  their 
treatment  of  the  beard,  are  precisely  those  used  by 
shavelings  the  world  over,  and  their  horror  of  hirsute 
appendages  is  not  surpassed  by  John  Bull's ;  but  they 
are  one  step  in  advance  of  John,  inasmuch  as,  not 
content  with  grubbing  at  the  chin  and  lip,  they  also 
pull  out  the  eyebrows,  leaving  only  a  narrow  arching 
thread,  which  they  paint  black,  in  order  to  produce  a 
more  striking  effect.  Some  of  the  young  braves  allow 
a  very  small  fringe  of  hair  to  shade  the  upper  lip; 
but  the  innovation  is  discountenanced  by  the  older 
chiefs. 

M 


266  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

The  Greeks,  in  the  time  of  their  degeneracy,  are 
said  to  have  cut  the  beard  because  in  battle  it  afford- 
ed too  good  a  handle  for  their  enemies ;  but  the  Ma- 
puches  are  actuated  by  no  such  motive  in  baring  the 
chin.  On  the  contrary,  while  they  cut  the  hair  short 
on  top  of  the  head,  it  is  purposely  left  long  at  the 
back  and  sides,  that  it  may  be  easily  gTasped.  To  re- 
proach an  Indian  with  wearing  short  hair  is  equivalent 
to  calling  him  a  coward ;  and  the  common  taunt  among 
boys  is  not,  as  with  us,  "Come  and  wrestle  if  you 
dare!"  but  "Let  us  pull  hair,  if  you  are  not  afraid!" 

Such  a  challenge  is  never  refused.  In  an  instant 
ponchos  are  whipped  off,  the  chiripa  is  gathered  up 
to  give  the  legs  free  play,  and  the  combatants  stand 
face  to  face.  A  fair  hold  is  taken  of  the  long  locks 
back  of  the  ear,  and  the  struggle  commences ;  each 
tries  to  twist  the  other's  head  so  as  to  destroy  his 
balance,  and  bring  him  to  the  ground,  in  which  con- 
sists the  victory.  Once  down,  there  is  no  pommeling 
nor  pulling,  but  the  hold  is  immediately  loosed,  and 
again  they  confront  each  other.  They  rub  the  back 
of  their  necks  for  a  moment,  shake  their  heads  defi- 
antly, and  the  tussle  is  resumed.  This  continues  until 
one  of  the  two  is  fairly  beaten  out,  after  which  they 
remain  as  good  friends  as  ever. 

We  reached  Chancay's  house  in  time  for  supper, 
which  I  should  have  relished  heartily  if  not  for  the 
never-failing  aji,  which  is  more  used,  if  possible,  by 
the  Indians  than  by  the  Chilenos  themselves ;  for  not 
only  do  they  saturate  their  food  with  it,  but  often 
when  eating  they  hold  in  the  hand  a  pepper  pod,  tak- 
ing an  occasional  bite  as  a  relish. 


KATRILAO.  267 

Next  morning,  as  I  was  making  my  toilet,  our 
hostess  fell  desperately  in  love  with  my  fine- tooth 
comb  and  pocket  looking-glass ;  so  much  so,  that  I 
promised  on  my  return  to  present  them  to  her — a 
promise  which  filled  her  heart  with  gladness.  Her 
own  comb,  which  she  showed  me,  was  a  small  bundle 
of  bristles,  made  up  like  a  paint  brush,  minus  the  han- 
dle. Mirror  she  had  none,  except  the  glassy  surface 
of  the  spring,  over  which,  as  she  descended  every 
morning  for  water,  she  would  hang  to  arrange  her 
raven  tresses,  and  paint  her  dusky  cheeks. 

After  breakfast  we  started  back  to  Maiiin's.  About 
half  way  we  stopped  at  the  house  of  a  half-breed 
named  Katrilao — a  Christian  in  name,  as  was  also 
his  wife,  who,  though  an  Indian,  had  lived  among 
the  Chilenos  long  enough  to  learn  Spanish  and  some 
of  the  ways  of  civilization.  But  the  possession  of 
a  crucifix  and  a  cheap  lithograph  of  the  Virgin  Mary 
was  probably  the  only  difference  between  her  Chris- 
tianity and  the  heathenism  of  her  neighbors. 

Katrilao's  lands  were  well  tilled  and  fenced ;  and 
he  seemed  much  better  off  than  the  great  majority  of 
the  lower  classes  of  the  Chilenos.  Immediately  around 
his  house  was  an  apple  orchard  which,  judging  from 
the  age  of  the  trees  and  the  regularity  with  which 
they  were  set  out,  must  have  been  planted  by  Span- 
iards— probably  by  the  Jesuit  missionaries.  The 
apple  every  where  abounds  in  Southern  Chili,  and  is 
found  throughout  the  Indian  country  growing  wild; 
yet  that  it  is  not  indigenous,  but  owes  its  introduc- 
tion to  the  Spaniards,  seems  clearly  proved  by  the 
fact,  that  the  Indians  designate  the  finiit  by  the  name 


268  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

of  manchana,  an  evident  corruption  of  the  Castilian 
manzana. 

We  found  Maiiin-Hueno  pretty  much  as  we  had 
left  him  the  day  before,  except  that  he  had  laid  aside 
his  shirt,  and  wore  instead  an  old,  tattered  uniform 
coat  of  antiquated  pattern,  profusely  embroidered  with 
gold,  and  bearing  on  the  button  the  Spanish  arms — a 
relic  of  the  times  when,  under  the  auspices  of  the 
crown,  he  waged  war  against  the  republic.  It  boasted 
a  stiff  standing  collar,  and  was  made  to  button  to  the 
throat ;  but  he  wore  it  hanging  open  and  loose  for 
comfort,  or  for  the  display  of  his  tawny  breast  and 
paunch,  which  were  without  covering. 

Most  of  the  women  were  absent,  probably  on  beg- 
ging expeditions ;  for  we  saw  one  of  them  returning, 
her  horse  loaded  down  with  corn,  potatoes,  and  a  lit- 
tle of  every  thing  else.  As  before  mentioned,  the 
chiefs  levy  no  direct  tribute ;  but  when  poor,  and 
with  large  families,  they  frequently  go  the  rounds  of 
their  subjects,  complaining  of  bad  crops,  hard  times, 
etc.,  and  contributions,  though  not  compulsory,  are 
seldom  refused  to  such  powerful  beggars.  They  also 
have  a  fashion  of  sending  off  the  different  members 
of  the  family  on  visits  to  friends ;  thus  quartering 
them  on  people  who  are  glad  in  the  end  to  send  them 
home  with  some  present,  in  preference  to  enjoying 
their  company. 

For  breakfast  and  provisions  upon  the  road  we 
bought  two  sheep,  sending  to  one  of  the  neighbors 
for  the  purpose,  as  required  by  the  punctilious  eti- 
quette of  the  Mapuches ;  for  though  our  host,  jwho 
had  killed  one  animal  for  us  on  our  first  arrival  (more 


HOSPITALITY.  269 

than  which  their  ideas  of  hospitality  do  not  require), 
would  not  have  killed  another  for  us  had  we  remained 
a  month,  yet  the  offer  to  buy  a  sheep  from  his  fold 
would  have  smacked  of  rudeness,  and  been  considered 
a  reflection  upon  his  generosity. 

Besides  the  meat  we  were  bountifully  supplied  with 
other  things ;  for  no  sooner  were  we  ready  to  start 
than  the  women  came  forward,  each  one  with  a  dish 
of  something  under  her  cloak.  One  had  boiled  eggs  ; 
another  a  boiled  fowl;  but  most  of  them  brought 
toasted  wheat  and  linseed  ground  together,  of  which 
I  had  already  become  fond,  regarding  the  "ulpo"  as 
not  only  a  pleasant  beverage,  but  almost  as  a  neces- 
sity, in  the  absence  of  bread. 

These  presents  were  but  returns  for  beads  and  trin- 
kets received  on  our  arrival.  Those  of  the  women 
who  had  children  brought  several  different  articles, 
saying,  as  each  one  was  presented : 

"To  my  son  you  gave  a  handkerchief;  he  sends 
you  these  eggs.  To  my  daughter  you  gave  beads ; 
receive  this  flour  in  her  name." 

Katrilao,  the  half-breed,  joined  our  party,  and  as 
a  guide  we  carried  one  of  Mafiin's  nephews,  to  whom 
the  old  chief  intrusted  us,  with  many  injunctions  as 
to  our  safety  and  his  own  conduct  on  the  road.  This 
gentleman,  though  a  sprig  of  nobility  of  the  first  wa- 
ter, was  an  ungainly-looking  rascal ;  thick,  short,  very 
dark,  and  with  a  large  scar  covering  half  his  face,  and 
distorting  his  mouth.  Especially  when  excited,  he 
was  hideous ;  but  he  was  good-hearted,  honest,  and 
possessed  an  inexhaustible  fund  of  sport  and  deviltry. 
Having  once  been   captive   among  the  Chilenos,  he 


270  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

spoke  Spanish  well  enough  to  be  useful  as  an  inter- 
preter, and  altogether  he  was  a  general  favorite. 

His  name  was  the  same  as  that  of  his  uncle,  Maiiin- 
Hueno ;  but  as  he  had  a  perfectly  Yankee  fashion  for 
swopping  with  every  body,  he  had  acquired  the  sobri- 
quet of  "  Trauque'''  (literally  a  return  made  for  a  pres- 
ent received),  a  term  commonly  applied  to  each  other 
by  persons  who  have  interchanged  gifts. 

With  the  accession  of  Katrilao  and  Trauque  we 
numbered  seven,  and  formed  a  very  respectable  caval- 
cade. 

After  crossing  a  beautiful  brook  which  ran  near  the 
house,  we  headed  to  the  south,  and  passing  through 
groves  of  fine  old  oaks,  soon  came  upon  an  undulating 
plain  stretching  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  and 
diversified  by  occasional  clumps  of  trees. 

Here  the  pack-mule,  in  jumping  over  a  log,  stum- 
bled and  fell.  The  mozos,  instead  of  kicking  and 
beating  him,  as  is  usual  on  such  occasions,  commenced 
unloading  the  prostrate  animal,  and  placed  the  pack 
upon  another,  for  he  had  broken  his  back,  they  said. 
When  relieved  of  his  burden,  a  few  scientific  wrings 
of  the  tail  brought  him  to  his  feet.  Sanchez  then 
whipped  out  his  knife,  and  laid  open  the  poor  brute's 
long  ear  with  a  gash,  from  which  the  blood  flowed 
copiously.  A  handful  of  dirt  was  put  upon  the  spot 
which  the  constant  swaying  of  the  pack  had  rubbed 
■  raw,  and  with  a  kick  in  the  ribs  he  was  sent  limping 
ofi"  to  join  his  companions.  I  thought  this  a  queer 
cure  for  a  broken  back,  but  held  my  peace. 

"It  is  a  sad  loss,"  said  Don  Panta,  sheathing»his 
knife ;   "  the  mule  will  be  worthless  for  the  future !" 


k- 


I 


THE     GOOD     OMEN.  271 

But  Don  Panta  was  a  shrewd  jockey,  and  I  suspect 
that,  with  a  little  fattening,  the  broken-backed  creat- 
ure brought  fiill  his  original  value. 

This  accident  would  have  been  considered  ominous 
had  we  not  soon  been  favored  by  a  lucky  sign.  Sud- 
denly our  Indian  companion,  Trauque,  put  spurs  to 
his  horse  and  dashed  forward,  gesticulating  wildly 
and  shouting  at  the  top  of  his  lungs,  while  a  small 
white  eagle,  frightened  from  its  perch,  soared  majes- 
tically round  us,  and  swept  away  to  the  far  south. 

This  was  the  "Namcu,"  the  eaglet  whose  name  I 
had  received  but  a  few  days  before — and  the  fact  of 
seeing  the  bird  upon  the  right  hand  was  deemed  a 
peculiarly  happy  omen.  The  prayer — for  such  it  was 
— addressed  to  the  bird  by  the  Indian  struck  me  as 
beautiful : 

"Oh,  Namcu  r  he  cried.  "Great  being!  look 
upon  us  not  with  thy  left,  but  with  thy  right  eye ; 
for  thou  knowest  that  we  are  poor !  Watch  over  our 
children  and  brothers ;  grant  us  happiness,  and  allow 
us  to  return  in  safety  from  our  journey !" 

The  Mapuches,  like  the  ancients,  argue  much  from 
the  flight  of  birds,  whether  upon  the  right  or  the  left 
hand.  The  kind  of  bird,  too,  is  of  great  importance. 
The  Namcu  is,  of  all  others,  the  bird  they  most  ven- 
erate. In  their  dreamy  notions  of  religion  it  ranks  as 
a  minor  divinity,  or,  at  least,  as  a  heavenly  messen- 
ger in  direct  communication  with  the  Supreme  Being. 
This  is  a  strange  coincidence  with  the  attributes  as- 
signed to  the  eagle  by  many  and  divers  nations ;  but 
not  more  strange  than  the  almost  universal  existence 
of  many  other  superstitions  and  customs  among  na- 


272  THE     AEAUCANIANS. 

tions  that  could  have  had  no  connection  with  each 
other,  except  at  a  period  of  the  remotest  antiquity. 

Far  different  from  the  Namcu,  which  is  supposed 
to  exert  a  benign  influence  over  all,  is  a  small  black 
bird,  whose  shrill  note  resembles  a  mocking  laugh. 
The  Indian  who,  on  setting  out  on  some  enterprise, 
hears  that  laugh  of  evil  omen,  as  the  malicious  bird 
hides  and  dodges  amidst  the  tangled  thicket,  upon  his 
left,  will  go  on  with  a  desponding  heart,  or  sometimes 
even  turn  back,  whispering  to  himself,  "Why  should 
I  go  forward?  Shall  I  not  be  unfortunate?  Is  not 
the  Evil  One  mocking  me  ?" 

There  are  many  other  things  which  they  regard  as 
forewarnings  of  good  or  evil;  for,  like  most  ignorant 
people,  they  seek  a  supernatural  agency  in  all  things. 
If  a  horse  stumbles,  it  portends  evil ;  is  there  a  nerv- 
ous twitching  in  any  part  of  the  body,  it  is  but  the 
announcement  of  some  good  or  ill  about  to  happen. 

What  is  the  religion  of  the  Mapuches  is  an  inter- 
esting question,  but  one  which  is  difficult  to  answer. 
Ercilla  says  in  his  Araucana : 

"  Gente  es  sin  Dios,  ni  ley — aunque  respeta 
A  aquel  que  fue  del  cielo  derribado ;" 

^.  e,  "  They  are  a  people  without  God  or  religion,  but 
subject  to  the  devil."  But  he  would  probably  have 
said  the  same,  or  worse,  of  any  people  whose  religious 
notions  did  not  exactly  tally  with  his  own.  Dobriz- 
hoifer,  in  his  history  of  the  Ahijpones  of  Paraguay, 
says :  "  The  savages  of  Chili  are  ignorant  of  the  name 
and  worship  of  God,  but  believe  in  a  certain  aerial 
spirit  called  Fillan^  to  whom  they  address  supplica- 


RELIGION     OF     THE     MAPUCHES.       273 

tions.  The  devil,  which  they  call  Aloee,  they  detest 
with  all  their  hearts." 

According  to  Molina,  God  is  called  "  Pillaii'''  (The 
Thunderer).  But  Alhue  means  not  simply  the  Prince 
of  Darkness,  but  any  hobgoblin  or  disembodied  spirit 
whatever — something  to  be  feared  rather  than  detested. 

In  the  Axaucana  we  read  of  a  class  of 

"  Predicadores 
Tenidos  en  sagrada  reverencia 
Que  solo  se  mantienen  de  loores 
Y  guardan  vida  estrecha  y  abstenencia" 

a  sort  of  Mapuch^  friars  who  make  their  living  by 
preaching,  and  lead  a  life  of  austere  self-denial.  But 
if  such  a  class  ever  existed  elsewhere  than  in  the 
brain  of  the  poet,  it  is  now  extinct,  for  the  Mapuches 
have  no  priests.  Owing  to  this  want  of  any  special 
expositors  of  religion,  each  one  entertains  his  own 
ideas,  which  are  more  or  less  at  variance  with  those 
of  others.  But,  as  far  as  I  could  learn,  the  belief  is 
universal  in  the  existence  of  a  good  and  a  bad  spirit, 
like  the  Great  Spirit  and  the  Manitou  of  our  own 
tribes — the  one  the  origin  of  all  good,  the  other  the 
cause  of  all  evil.  Besides  these,  the  Mapuches  have 
no  other  gods,  though  they  believe  in  spirits  of  vari- 
ous kinds.  They  have  no  idols,  nor  do  they  worship 
the  heavenly  bodies,  animals,  or  any  other  visible  ob- 
jects. 

As  they  have  no  priests,  so  they  have  no  temples, 
nor  any  fixed  ceremonials  of  religion.  The  nearest 
approach  they  make  to  any  formal  public  worship, 
is  in  the  sacrifices  sometimes  offered  at  their  na- 
tional councils,  and  other  great  gatherings.     An  ani- 

M* 


274  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

mal  is  slain,  the  blood  is  poured  out  as  a  libation, 
and  tbe  heart  is  borne  round,  upon  a  branch  of  the 
cinnamon  tree,  with  dancing  and  a  rude  choral  invoca- 
tion. The  meat  is  then  eaten,  and  after  the  feast  the 
bones  are  carefully  collected  and  thrown  into  the 
nearest  stream  of  running  water,  for  being  conse- 
crated, it  would  be  profanation  to  throw  them  to  the 
dogs. 

In  time  of  war  a  prisoner  is  sometimes,  though 
rarely,  sacrificed.  After  being  led  to  the  place  of  ex- 
ecution upon  a  horse  whose  ears  and  tail  have  been 
cropped,  he  is  called  upon  to  dig  a  hole  in  the 
ground,  into  which  he  casts  a  number  of  sticks,  nam- 
ing, with  each  one,  some  of  the  celebrated  warriors 
of  his  people,  upon  whom  imprecations  and  ridicule 
are  heaped  by  the  spectators.  He  is  then  forced  to 
fill  up  the  hole,  and  having  thus,  as  it  were,  buried 
the  fame  of  his  countrymen,  his  brains  are  dashed 
out  with  a  club.  The  heart  is  torn  from  his  breast, 
and,  while  yet  palpitating,  handed  to  the  Toqui,  who, 
after  sucking  a  few  drops  of  the  blood,  passes  it 
to  his  officers  that  they  may  do  the  same.  Flutes 
are  made  of  the  prisoner's  bones  ;  his  head  is  placed 
upon  a  spear  and  borne  round  in  triumph ;  and  the 
skull,  if  not  broken,  is  made  into  a  drinking-cup  to 
be  used  at  their  feasts.*  But  such  sacrifices  are 
not  properly  acts  of  religion,  but  rather  of  satisfac- 
tion to  the  manes  of  warriors  who  have  fallen  in 
battle. 

At  the  entrance  to  one  of  the  narrow  defiles  of 

*  Molina  is  responsible  for  these  details  ;  I  neither  saw  nor  heafd 
any  thing  of  these  ghastly  flutes  and  drinking-cups. 


I 


SACRIFICES  AND  LIBATIONS.    275 

the  Cordilleras,  in  which  the  Indians  are  often  over- 
taken by  violent  storms,  Sanchez  told  me  that  he 
had  seen  a  large  mass  of  rock  with  small  cavities 
upon  its  surface,  into  which  the  Indians,  when  about 
to  enter  the  pass,  generally  deposit  a  few  glass  beads, 
a  handful  of  meal,  or  some  other  propitiatory  offer- 
ing to  the  "genius"  supposed  to  preside  over  the 
spot  and  rule  the  storm.  Other  places  there  may  be 
where  certain  local  rites  are  performed,  but  he  knew 
of  none. 

On  receiving  a  plate  of  broth,  an  Indian,  before 
eating,  spills  a  little  upon  the  ground;  he  scatters 
broadcast  a  few  pinches  of  the  meal  that  is  given  him, 
and  pours  out  a  libation  before  raising  the  wine-cup 
to  his  lips,  as  acts  of  thanksgiving  for  the  blessings 
he  receives,  and  of  acknowledgment  of  his  indebted- 
ness to  mother  Earth.  Thus-  the  same  rites  by 
which  the  polished  nations  of  antiquity  returned 
thanks  to  Bacchus  and  to  Ceres,  serve  the  rude  In- 
dian of  Arauco  to  testify  his  gratitude  to  a  Supreme 
Being,  whose  attributes  he  seeks  not  to  discover,  but 
whom  his  untutored  mind  has  learned  to  adore  as  the 
bountiful  giver  of  all  good  things. 

The  Jesuits  had  extensive  establishments  in  this 
country,  the  ruins  of  which  are  frequently  met  with ; 
but  of  the  Christianity  they  taught  no  traces  remain. 
Probably  they  made  but  few  true  converts  ;  for  though 
respected  as  individuals,  their  influence  as  a  body 
was  dreaded,  and  though  always  treated  with  exem- 
plary kindness,  they  were  finally  expelled  by  the 
Indians,  who  insisted  upon  their  leaving  the  coun- 
try entirely  and   forever.      Other   missionaries  have 


276  THE     A  K  A  U  C  A  N  I  A  N  S. 

since  occasionally  strayed  into  the  interior,  but  the 
only  evidences  of  their  labors  are  a  few  Christian 
names,  or  the  possession  of  medals  and  crosses,  worn 
with  other  charms  and  amulets,  and  viewed  with  equal 
veneration. 

At  Valdivia,  and  a  few  other  places  on  the  frontier, 
there  are  missions,  but  their  influence  is  limited  to 
a  narrow  circle.  These  missions,  of  course,  are  all 
Catholic,  for  the  government  of  Chili  would  tolerate  no 
others.  The  devoted  Gardiner,  who  afterward  perish- 
ed in  his  endeavors  to  carry  the  light  of  Christianity 
to  the  benighted  Patagonians,  at  one  time  sought  to 
establish  himself  among  the  Araucanians,  but  was  un- 
successful. 

Recently  the  Chilian  government  has  imported  a 
body  of  Italian  friars,  to  be  employed  among  the  In- 
dians, as  a  preparatory  step  toward  colonizing  their 
country  with  whites,  but  the  result  of  the  scheme 
remains  to  be  seen.  The  Indians  perfectly  understand 
the  system  of  tactics,  by  which  a  missionary  post  is 
made  the  nucleus  for  the  formation  of  a  town,  soon 
to  be  followed  by  another  more  in  the  interior ;  and 
they  will  not  fail  to  do  aU  in  their  power  to  thwart 
the  plans  of  the  government. 


I 


CHAPTER    XXIY. 

Camping  Out. — Cider-making. — Plucking  Wheat. — Potatoes. — Fin- 
gers versus  Combs. — The  Horse-thief. — Juan  Yevul. — Regnaco. — 
Squabble. —  The  Cholchol. —  Value  of  a  Mustache. —  Threshing 
Wheat. 

About  sunset  we  came  to  a  deep  gorge,  through 
which  ran  a  small  stream ;  and  as  there  was  also  fine 
pasture,  and  an  abundance  of  apples,  we  determined 
to  camp  here  for  the  night. 

A  fire  soon  crackles  joyfully,  half  a  sheep  is  spitted, 
and  carefully  planted  to  windward,  so  as  to  overhang 
the  flame  but  avoid  the  smoke.  Jose  is  scientifically 
adjusting  a  sheep-skin,  wool  down,  preparatory  to 
making  cider;  and  Juan  brings  a  poncho-full  of  ap- 
ples (to  my  eye  very  green) — the  load  is  emptied  upon 
the  skin,  and  kneeling  upon  the  ground,  these  two 
worthies,  with  a  couple  of  flexible  "coligues,"  com- 
mence threshing  lustily. 

'"''Illi  inter  sese  magna  vi  brachia  tollunt,^''  and 
quickly  the  apples  are  reduced  to  a  pulp.  A  jug  of 
water  is  brought  and  poured  on,  the  whole  is  stirred 
together,  and  the  "  chicha"  is  ready. 

As  the  patron  I  am  entitled  to  the  first  attentions. 
A  horn  is  placed  on  the  ground,  and  Jose,  plunging 
into  the  hide,  fishes  up  a  mass  of  pulp,  which  he 
squeezes  between  his  long  bony  paws,  converted  into 


280  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

a  temporary  cider  press.  His  hands  might  be  cleaner, 
but  it  is  useless  to  stand  on  trifles. 

Such  cider  is  somewhat  cofFee-colored,  and  rather 
sour;  but  I  soon  became  fond  of  it,  especially  with 
the  addition  of  a  little  toasted  meal,  which  makes  it 
much  more  palatable. 

After  a  picnic  supper  one  of  the  tnozos,  shouldering 
his  saddle  gear  (his  only  bedding),  started  off  to  sleep 
upon  the  hillside  as  a  look  out ;  for  though  there 
were  no  houses  near,  some  straggler,  attracted  by  our 
fire,  might  be  prowling  around,  ready  to  smuggle  away 
any  animal  that  wandered  a  little  from  our  camp.  The 
rest  scattered  about  within  hailing  distance  of  each 
other,  while  I  made  up  my  bed  under  a  wide  spread- 
ing apple-tree,  whose  branches  offered  a  shelter  from 
the  heavy  dews.  The  ground  was  not  quite  so  soft 
as  the  skins  that  the  kind  squaws  had  thus  far  always 
supplied  for  mattresses,  but  we  were  soon  oblivious 
of  the  hardness  of  our  beds.  In  such  a  balmy  climate 
it  is  a  luxury  to  sleep  in  the  open  air.  There  is  a 
freshness,  a  sense  of  freedom  from  restraint,  for  the 
absence  of  which  no  in-door  comforts  can  compensate. 

Early  in  the  morning  we  crossed  the  stream,  which 
struck  me  as  romantic :  soon  we  reached  another,  run- 
ning through  a  gorge ;  and  an  hour  or  two  later,  we 
came  to  still  a  third,  winding  through  a  deep  valley. 
They  were  all  small,  clear  streams,  dancing  over  stony 
bottoms,  and  at  the  time  not  deep,  though  in  the 
rainy  season  they  swell  and  become  rapid  torrents. 

The  valley  through  which  ran  this  last  stream  was 
very  fertile,  abounding  with  orchards  and  fieldsi  of 
grain.     We  saw  houses   scattered  at  short  intervals 


PLUCKING     WHEAT.  281 

from  each  other,  evincing  a  comparatively  dense  pop- 
ulation ;  and  Sanchez  informed  me  that  it  was  thickly- 
peopled  throughout  its  whole  extent.  Such,  indeed, 
is  generally  the  case;  the  higher  plains  are  mostly 
used  for  pasturage,  while  the  houses  are  located  near 
springs  or  running  streams.  At  times  a  spring  will 
dry  up,  and  the  neighbors  move  off  to  some  more  fa- 
vored spot ;  for  digging  wells  they  do  not  understand 
— at  least,  they  do  not  practice  it. 

Passing  through  a  field,  we  met  a  troop  of  gayly- 
dressed  boys  and  girls  engaged  in  picking  wheat — 
plucking  each  ear  separately.  Such  was  the  original 
mode  of  gathering  the  crops  prior  to  the  introduction, 
by  the  Spaniards,  of  horses  and  European  sickles ; 
but  it  has  gone  gradually  into  disuse,  until  no  longer 
remembered,  except  as  a  pastime  for  children  and 
youths. 

When  thus  engaged  they  pair  off — a  boy  and  a  girl 
taking  a  small  basket  between  them — and  as  they  pass 
through  the  field,  each  one,  as  he  (or  she)  plucks  a 
head  of  wheat,  rubs  it  upon  the  back  of  the  other's 
hand,  thus  threshing  out  the  grain,  which  falls  into 
the  basket  beneath.  They  keep  step  to  a  monoto- 
nous cadence,  to  which  also  they  sing,  alternately, 
verses  composed  upon  tlie  spur  of  the  moment — no 
very  difficult  task,  as  their  strophes  are  without 
rhyme,  or  much  pretension  to  measure.  The  burden 
of  the  song  is  generally  love ;  and  as  the  various  par- 
ties become  separated,  each  attending  to  its  own  af- 
fairs, opportunities  are  offered  for  the  unfolding  of 
many  a  hidden  passion.  Often  is  a  coy  maiden  thus 
wooed  and  won. 


282  THi:     AKAUCANIANS. 

The  group  we  met  were  in  a  merry  mood,  and 
seemed  much  inclined  to  "chaff"  us,  criticising  our 
appearance,  and  otherwise  amusing  tliemselves  at  our 
expense ;  until,  tiu-ning  our  horses,  we  made  a  dash 
toward  a  body  of  damsels,  whereupon  they  scattered 
in  every  direction  through  the  bending  corn,  making 
the  hiUs  re-echo  with  their  laughter  as  they  fled. 

Near  the  hill  of  Huirlol  we  rested  for  the  siesta,  in 
a  spot  where  others  had  been  before  us,  for  there  were 
stiU  traces  of  a  recent  encampment ;  and,  among  other 
things,  several  small  cane  frames,  about  large  enough 
for  a  man  to  crawl  under,  intended  as  a  temporary 
protection  from  the  inclemency  of  the  weather;  for 
by  spreading  ponchos  over  them,  and  lying  beneath, 
a  comparatively  rainy  night  might  be  passed  without 
getting  wet. 

Our  fire  soon  procured  us  visitors ;  and  among 
others  came  the  son  of  a  neighboring  Cazique  with 
most  of  his  family.  They  brought  a  quantity  of 
stewed  potatoes  that  were  excellent,  not  only  in  qual- 
ity, but  also  as  regarded  the  cooking.  Nowhere  in 
Chili,  where  the  potatoes  are  always  fine,  had  I  seen 
better,  though  it  is  said  that  farther  south,  especially 
on  the  island  of  Chiloe,  they  are  raised  in  still  greater 
perfection.  Throughout  Chili  and  Peru,  with  every 
variety  of  soil  and  climate,  from  extremely  wet  to 
extremely  dry,  the  potato  is  found  of  superior  qual- 
ity, and  entirely  unmolested  by  any  of  the  diseases 
which  have  rendered  the  crop  so  precarious  of  late 
years  in  Europe  and  the  United  States.  Would  not 
a  renewal  of  our  stock  from  South  America  be  the 
most  effectual  preventive  of  the  rot. 


FINGERS    verms    combs.  283 

The  women  of  the  company  were  positively  ugly, 
with  the  exception  of  one  bright-eyed  little  squaw, 
that  was  really  quite  pretty :  hut  I  was  soon  out  of 
conceit  with  her;  for  as  the  men  gathered  about  us 
to  talk,  the  women  drew  off  to  one  side,  and  having 
nothing  better  to  do,  began  to  perform  for  each  other 
a  service,  in  the  absence  of  fine-tooth  combs,  highly 
conducive  to  comfort.  It  was  a  great  damper  to  sen- 
timent to  see  the  pretty  squaw  thus  engaged ;  but  the 
climax  was  only  capped  when,  pouncing  upon  some 
victim,  she  would  toss  him  into  her  mouth,  smiling 
coquettishly  as  she  crushed  him  between  her  small 
white  teeth.  I  experienced  a  squeamishness  about 
the  gastric  region  that  threatened  to  revolutionize  my 
breakfast.  The  sight  afterward  became  familiar,  but 
I  never  became  quite  reconciled  to  it. 

The  men  were,  as  usual,  inquisitive,  and  annoyed 
us  by  handling  every  thing — my  gloves  especially 
amused  them,  for  they  had  never  before  seen  any  one, 
as  they  said,  with  "sumeles"  (horse-skin  boots)  on 
his  hands,  and  were  at  loss  to  understand  how  I  could 
use  my  fingers.  Some  of  the  youngsters  even  asked 
me  to  pull  them  ofi*,  that  they  might  have  the  pleasure 
of  trying  them  on — a  request  that  was  flatly  refiised. 

We  got  rid  of  our  troublesome  company  by  a  lib- 
eral distribution  of  trinkets ;  but  the  Cazique's  son 
held  back  to  consult  with  Sanchez  about  some  appa- 
rently important  business ;  for  they  carried  on  a  long 
conversation  in  low  whispers.  It  seems  that  he  had 
been  helping  himself  to  one  of  his  neighbor's  horses, 
and  finding  that  there  was  a  likelihood  of  being  de- 
tected, and  made  to  suffer  (for  the  word  of  the  great 


284  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

Manin  had  gone  forth  threatening  vengeance  upon  all 
horse-thieves),  he  wished  to  avail  himself  of  Panta's 
superior  wisdom  to  find  some  way  of  smuggling  the 
animal  out  of  the  country. 

Though  well  disposed  in  most  respects,  these  In- 
dians, like  all  others,  are  addicted  to  horse-stealing, 
which  has  given  rise  probably  to  more  quarreling 
among  themselves  and  with  the  Chilenos  than  any 
other  cause.  Maiiin  having  talked  and  counseled  a 
long  time  in  vain,  had  at  length  declared  that  he  would 
make  an  example  of  the  very  next  offender,  and  no 
one  doubted  that  he  would  be  as  good  as  his  word. 

Resuming  our  journey,  we  rode  for  some  time 
among  the  hills  forming  the  western  boundary  of  the 
plain,  from  the  summit  of  one  of  which  we,  for  the 
first  time,  descried  the  volcano  of  Glaima — a  beauti- 
fiil  double  cone  towering  high  above  the  surrounding 
mountains,  and  standing  out,  with  its  snowy  mass,  in 
bold  contrast  against  the  blue  sky.  Both  the  craters 
seemed  to  be  emitting  smoke,  but  owing  to  the  dis" 
tance  it  was  not  easy  to  determine. 

On  the  road  we  met  a  party  of  young  men — appa- 
rently Chilenos  of  the  middle  class — ^wearing  the  full 
Em'opean  dress,  without  even  the  poncho,  though, 
except  in  the  cities,  that  garment  is  universally  worn. 
We  saluted  them  in  Spanish,  but  were  much  sur- 
prised to  receive  an  answer  in  the  Indian  tongue ;  for 
they  were  the  sons  of  a  neighboring  Cazique  named 
Juan  Yevulcan. 

This  Juan  Yevul  (as  he  is  generally  called)  is  a 
chief  of  wealth  and  importance;  and  is  much  nwre 
intelligent  than  the  most  of  his  countrymto.     Having 


R  E  G  N  A  C  O.  285 

lived  among  the  Chilenos  he  speaks  Spanish  well,  has 
acquired  many  European  ideas,  and  lives  somewhat 
like  a  Christian,  although  he  keeps  a  seraglio  of  eight 
wdves,  and  is  desirous  of  adding  as  many  more  to  the 
number.  His  lands,  through  which  we  passed,  are 
extensive,  and  under  better  culture  than  any  we  had 
yet  seen ;  and  his  house,  which  is  large,  is  said  to  be 
furnished  in  a  manner  somewhat  approaching  to  civil- 
ization. Sanchez  and  Trauque  turned  aside  to  pay 
the  customary  visit  of  ceremony ;  but,  under  the  cir- 
cumstances, it  was  prudent  for  me  to  keep  out  of 
sight,  and  I  went  on  with  the  mozos  without  seeing 
the  wonderful  Indian,  who  is  said  to  eat  from  a  table 
and  sleep  between  sheets. 

We  arrived  about  sunset  at  a  place  called  Regnaco, 
on  a  stream  of  the  same  name.  It  is  quite  a  little 
hamlet,  there  being  six  or  eight  houses  within  a 
stone's  throw  of  each  other  ranged  along  the  road, 
and  forming  the  only  approach  to  any  thing  like  a 
village  that  we  met  in  the  whole  country. 

The  Mapuches  all  have  an  aversion  to  living  in 
towns ;  but  it  is  probable  that  this  feeling  arises,  not, 
as  has  been  supposed,  from  fear  of  the  enervating  in- 
fluences of  such  a  life,  but  from  their  necessities  as 
an  agricultural  and  pastoral  people — each  one  desiring 
to  be  sufficiently  removed  from  neighbors  to  cultivate 
his  crops,  and  pasture  his  flocks  without  being  en- 
croached upon  by  others. 

The  house  at  which  we  stopped  was  that  of  a  sil- 
versmith— a  Chileno — a  sort  of  renegade  from  jus- 
tice, who  had  deserted  his  lawful  wife  and  children 
to  seek  a  refiige  among  the  Indians,  where  he  might 


286  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

live  unmolested  with  a  paramour,  whose  charms,  by 
the  way,  hardly  justified  such  a  step. 

During  the  night  a  mule  was  lost- — a  valuable  ani- 
mal— and  we  were  delayed  for  two  days  in  conse- 
quence. The  time  hung  rather  heavy  on  our  hands ; 
but  we  amused  ourselves  by  bathing  and  chatting 
with  the  neighbors — a  good-natured,  lazy  set,  who 
would  sit  and  gossip  by  the  hour. 

While  here  an  incident  occurred  illustrative  of  the 
feeling  existing  between  the  whites  and  the  I»dians. 
A  party  of  two  or  three  traders,  who  had  been  buying 
cattle  in  the  interior,  arrived  at  the  house,  and  were 
soon  engaged  iri  gambling  at  the  old-fashioned  game 
of  pitch-penny.  During  the  game  one  of  the  traders 
lost  a  quarter  of  a  dollar.  Having  hunted  for  it  in 
vain,  he  went  on  playing ;  but  soon  after  a  jauntily- 
dressed  young  Indian,  pulling  out  a  quarter  of  a  dol- 
lar, offered  it  for  a  sixpenny  harmonicon.  The  trader 
immediately  claimed  the  coin  as  the  one  he  had  lost, 
and  demanded  its  restitution.  This  was  refused; 
whereupon  he  seized  the  young  chieftain  by  the  neck, 
.threw  him  roughly  to  the  ground,  and  planting  a 
knee  on  his  breast,  jerked  the  money  from  his  fingers. 
The  Indian  rose,  his  eyes  flashing  fire,  his  frame 
quivering  with  rage;  but  though  a  long  knife  glis- 
tened in  his  sash,  and  the  unerring  "  laqui"*  hung  at 

*  The  "laqui"  (or  "bolas"  of  the  Buenos  Ayreans)  is  a  triple 
slung-shot,  used  as  a  missile  weapon.  In  using  it  one  of  the  shot  is 
grasped  in  the  hand,  and  the  other  two  are  whirled  around  the  head 
until  a  sufficient  impetus  is  attained,  when  it  is  thrown  with  great 
force  and  precision.  It  is  no  less  efficient  than  the  lasso  in  catching 
wild  cattle ;  for  it  may  be  thrown  so  as  to  wind  around  the  legs  of  a 
flying  animal,  and  bring  him  instantly  to  the  ground. 


VALUE     OF     A     MUSTACHE.  287 

his  waist,  he  pocketed  the  afiront,  and  skulked  off 
vowing  vengeance  upon  his  assailant. 

Though  the  young  Indian  was  the  son  of  a  wealthy 
Cazique,  the  others  who  w^ere  present  looked  on  in 
silence  without  espousing  the  cause  of  their  country- 
man. Like  the  Spartans  of  old,  they  thought  the 
thief  deserving  of  punishment,  not  for  stealing,  but 
for  allowing  himself  to  be  detected. 

The  traders  seldom  hesitate  to  take  the  law  into 
their  own  hand,  though  far  in  the  interior,  and  com- 
pletely at  the  mercy  of  the  people  whose  feelings  they 
often  needlessly  outrage.  But,  unless  the  circum- 
stances of  the  case  are  extremely  aggravated,  the 
lookers-on  seldom  interfere ;  and  if  blood  is  some- 
times shed,  it  is  generally  in  fits  of  intoxication  pro- 
duced by  the  liquors  introduced  by  the  traders  them- 
selves. Yet  this  mild  and  inoffensive  people  are  often 
described  as  turbulent  and  aggressive. 

Leaving  Eegnaco  we  rode  for  some  distance  through 
a  finely-wooded  tract,  and  soon  reached  the  Cholchol 
— the  only  stream  we  had  met  since  crossing  the  Bio- 
Bio  that  could  be  dignified  bv  the  title  of  river.  It 
was  too  deep  to  ford,  and  we  were  obliged  to  travel 
several  miles  down  the  stream  to  a  place  where  the 
river  was  divided  by  islands  into  several  broad  chan- 
nels. 

Near  the  ford  we  drew  up  at  a  house  where  a  num- 
ber of  Indians  were  collected.  During  the  "talk"  a 
burly  fellow  approached,  and  after  scrutinizing  me 
closely,  laid  his  hand  upon  me,  and  commenced,  as  I 
supposed,  an  examination  of  my  garments,  to  which 
I  patiently  submitted.     But  I  soon  noticed  that  all 


288  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

eyes  were  fixed  on  me,  while-  the  remarks  of  my  ex- 
aminer were  received  with  laughter,  in  which  Sanchez 
joined  more  heartily  than  any  one.  Not  wishing  to 
lose  all  the  fun,  I  asked  the  cause  of  so  much  merri- 
ment. 

"Oh,  nothing,"  said  Sanchez,  "only  he  takes  you 
to  he  a  woman!" 

The  truth  immediately  flashed  across  my  mind. 
As  the  sun  was  very  hot  I  had  covered  my  face,  as 
is  commonly  practiced  in  Chili,  with  a  handkerchief, 
leaving  only  my  eyes  and  nose  visible.  This,  coupled 
with  a  comparatively  diminutive  person,  and  a  dress 
different  fi-om  that  worn  by  the  rest  of  the  party,  had 
given  rise  to  the  suspicion  that  I  might  be  a  woman — 
a  point  which  my  friend  was  desirous  of  ascertaining. 
No  farther  explanation  was  necessary ;  and,  under  a 
sudden  admonition  from  the  spur,  my  horse  plunged 
forward,  sending  the  rascal  reeling  back  among  his 
countrymen,  while  drawing  aside  the  handkerchief,  I 
displayed  my  beard,  much  to  the  discomfiture  of  the 
astonished  gentleman,  who  was  met  on  all  sides  with 
shouts  of  derision. 

Fortunately,  I  had  disregarded  the  counsels  of 
many  friends  who  advised  me  to  shave,  in  order  to 
conform  to  the  Indian  custom ;  for  as  I  was  several 
times  mistaken  for  a  woman,  despite  a  very  respect- 
able mustache,  if  clean  shaven,  who  knows  but  in  an 
unguarded  moment  I  might  have  been  carried  off 
to  become  the  unwilling  bride  of  some  amorous  sav- 
age? 

Beyond  the  river  we  were  arrested  by  loud  shout- 
ing and  yelling  ahead.     Uncertain  of  the  meaning  of 


THRESHING     WHEAT.  289 

SO  much  commotion  the  party  halted,  while  Panta 
and  Trauque  went  forward  to  reconnoitre,  for  much 
circumspection  is  needed  in  approaching  an  assem- 
blage of  Indians,  for  whatever  purpose  collected. 

After  a  long  palaver  we  were  beckoned  to  come  on, 
and  found  some  twenty  or  thirty  men,  women,  and 
children,  engaged  in  threshing  out  wheat.  The  meth- 
od adopted  was  that  of  treading  out  the  grain  with 
horses,  as  among  the  Chilenos.  Half  a  dozen  horse- 
men were  in  the  ring  reeking  with  sweat  and  dust, 
and  bawling  at  the  top  of  their  lungs.  When  the 
horses  were  let  out,  the  women  turned  in  with  twigs 
to  sweep  to  one  side  the  grain  and  chaff. 

As  usual,  I  became  the  centre  of  attraction,  creating 
much  surprise  by  my  dress,  gloves,  and  complexion, 
which  last,  though  tanned  by  several  months'  exposure 
to  the  blazing  sun,  they  were  pleased  to  consider 
"passing  fair."  Such  compliments  are  not  received 
every  day ;  but  the  effluvia  which  arose  from  these 
reeking  men — to  say  nothing  about  the  women — was 
so  peculiar  that  I  was  glad  to  escape  their  admiration, 
though  obliged  to  purchase  freedom  by  a  considerable 
outlay  of  Jew's-harps  and  thimbles. 

N 


CHAPTER    XXV. 

Singular  Carvings.  —  Business  Transactions. — The  Boroans.  —  An 
Enigma.  —  Cancura.  —  Huilyiche  Houses.  —  The  Machitun.  — 
Wives  of  Ayllal. — ^Weaving. — The  Widow. 

The  country  between  the  Cholchol  and  the  Cantin  is 
fertile  and  thickly  peopled.  Burial-places  are  numer- 
ous, and  we  again  noticed  a  difference  in  the  method 
of  designating  the  graves  :  each  one,  instead  of  be- 
ing inclosed  by  rough-hewn  boards,  was  marked  by 
a  single  post,  rudely  fashioned  and  ornamented  at 
the  top ;  some  by  a  figure  somewhat  resembling  the 
European  hat ;  others  by  what  might,  by  one  so 
predisposed,  be  constructed  into  a  double-headed 
eagle.  --^ 

What  this  latter  carving  is  intended  to  represent  I 
could  not  learn,  but  it  is  undoubtedly  the  same  figure 
met  with  by  the  Spaniards  when  they  first  visited  this 
region.  By  them  it  was  hailed  as  representing  the 
Imperial  eagle  of  Austria,  and  is  said  to  have  suggested 
the  name  of  IiTvperial,  which  was  given  to  the  city 
founded  in  this  vicinity. 

The  double-headed  eagle  was  a  favorite  symbol  with 
the  Spaniards  at  the  time  of  the  conquest,  and  may 
still  be  seen  ornamenting  many  of  the  old  churches 
and  private  dwellings  tliroughout  Chili.  It  is  not 
strange,  therefore,  that  they  should  have  been  quicli  to 


BUSINESS     TRANSACTIONS.  291 

detect  this  fancied  resemblance  in  the  rude  Indian 
carvings,  and  have  drawn  from  it  a  favorable  omen. 

During  the  day  we  came  across  quite  an  extensive 
trench,  such  as  are  used  throughout  Spanish  Chili  for 
irrigation.  Old  apple-trees  were  planted  in  regular 
rows,  and  I  even  imagined  that  I  could  trace  in  places 
the  furrows  of  the  plow.  I  asked  Trauque  what  these 
things  meant,  but  he  said  he  did  not  know,  unless  they 
were  the  work  of  the  "  Tityres" — a  common  name  in 
Chili  for  the  Jesuits. 

We  stopped  for  the  night  at  the  house  of  an  Indian, 
upon  the  banks  of  the  river  Cantin.  Our  entertainer, 
though  not  a  chief,  prided  himself  on  being  a  "ghel- 
men,"  and  did  not  wish  to  be  confounded  with  the 
vulgar  herd^ 

A  sheep  was  immediately  killed  for  us,  and  dished 
up  in  the  most  approved  style.  Even  the  blood, 
which  is  generally  considered  a  perquisite  of  the  fam- 
ily, was  served  up  to  us,  coagulated  with  salt  to 
about  the  consistency  of  thick  custard:  the  whole 
party  pulled  out  their  knives  and  made  an  attack 
upon  the  pudding.  I  myself,  out  of  curiosity,  ven- 
tured a  mouthful ;  but,  though  not  disagreeable  to  the 
palate,  the  idea  of  eating  raw  blood  was  enough  to 
take  away  all  appetite. 

After  the  meal,  the  usual  distribution  of  presents 
was  made,  and  as  the  family  was  small,  we  were  just 
congratulating  ourselves  on  escaping  cheaply,  when 
in  sauntered  a  neighbor,  who  was  presented  as  "my 
brother;"  he  had  hardly  settled  down  to  the  enjoy- 
ment of  his  share  of  booty,  when  in  dropped  a  blear- 
eyed  old  woman,  who  proved  to  be  "  my  aunt ;"  next 


292  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

followed  a  stately  dowager,  fair,  fat,  and  fortj,  radi- 
ant with  paint  and  silver  ornaments,  looking  as  inno- 
cent as  though  she  had  happened  in  by  the  merest 
accident  in  the  world ;  she  was  "  my  sister ;"  and  so 
it  went  on  until  we  began  to  think  our  host's  relatives 
were  innumerable. 

These  relatives  were  scarcely  satisfied,  according  to 
their  various  degrees  of  relationship,  before  the  wo- 
men from  the  neighborhood  began  to  arrive.  It  seemed 
as  though  every  body  within  a  mile  around  had  been 
telegraphed.  They  all  brought  concealed  under  their 
cloaks  some  present,  or  rather,  something  for  sale. 
Each,  after  a  salute  and  a  short  pause,  advanced  and 
placed  at  our  feet  her  dish  of  meal  or  potatoes :  the 
provisions  were  stowed  away  in  our  saddle-bags ;  a 
string  of  beads  or  a  thimble  was  dropped  into  the 
plate  in  return,  and  smiling  her  acknowledgments  the 
damsel  withdrew  to  give  place  to  another.  But  these 
presents  poured  in  so  fast  that  they  were  no  longer 
acceptable,  and  Sanchez  began  to  diminish  the  num- 
ber of  beads  until  his  returns  were  scarcely  considered 
equivalents,  seeing  which  the  last  comers  moved  off, 
as  silently  as  they  had  come,  without  so  much  as  un- 
covering their  wares. 

One  of  the  neighbors  brought  a  poncho  for  sale: 
he  asked  six  dollars  for  it,  about  six  times  its  value. 
To  my  surprise  Sanchez  agreed  to  buy  it  at  this  ex- 
orbitant price,  and  pulling  out  his  indigo  bag  he  gave 
the  man  six  spoonfuls,  at  one  dollar  each.  The  In- 
dian went  off  satisfied  that  he  had  made  a  good  bar- 
gain, though  what  he  received  was  worth  about  seven- 
ty-five cents. 


THE     BOROANS.  293 

We  crossed  the  Cantin  in  two  branches,  and  soon 
after  passed  the  Quepe.  In  neither  case  did  we  ex- 
perience difficulty  in  fording.  The  intervening  coun- 
try was  flat,  and  apparently  thickly  inhabited. 

We  were  now  within  the  confines  of  the  warlike 
people  of  Boroa,  concerning  whom  as  many  wonders 
have  been  related  as  of  the  fabled  giants  of  Patagonia. 
Many  of  the  best  informed  among  the  Chilenos  believe 
that  the  Boroache  are  a  distinct  race  of  white  Indians^ 
having  golden  hair  and  light-blue  eyes.  And  even  a 
distinguished  foreigner  of  high  scientific  attainments, 
who,  a  few  years  since,  passed  over  the  coast-road 
from  Concepcion  to  Yaldivia,  speaks  credulously  of 
the  fair-haired  and  warlike  children  of  Boroa,  who, 
with  ever-jealous  eye,  guard  their  borders  against  the 
approach  of  civilized  man. 

Strange  have  been  the  conjectures  of  those  who 
have  endeavored  to  account  for  the  existence  of  so 
singular  a  race ;  but,  unfortunately  for  the  ingenuity 
of  philosophers  and  the  rhapsodies  of  poets,  the  Bo- 
roans  are  but  Indians,  as  copper-colored,  as  ugly,  as 
filthy,  and  as  uncivilized  as  any  of  their  neighbors. 
As  among  all  the  other  tribes,  an  Indian  may  occa- 
sionally be  met  whose  brown  hair,  light  eyes,  and  fair 
complexion  denote  the  presence  of  white  blood.  Such 
instances  are  more  numerous  among  those  living  in 
and  around  Boroa  than  elsewhere,  but  not  sufficiently 
so  materially  to  affect  the  general  appearance  and 
character  of  the  tribe. 

The  explanation  seems  to  be  simple.  It  wiU  be 
remembered  that,  at  the  time  of  the  destruction  of  the 
"cities  of  the  plain,"  the  inhabitants  of  the  morQ 


294  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

northern  towns  were  drawn  oif  by  the  Spanish  gen- 
eral, while  those  of  Imperial,  Valdivia,  and  Villa  Rica, 
three  important  towns  situated  in  this  neighborhood, 
v^  for  the  most  part  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Indians. 

The  women  and  children  were  spared,  and  held  as 
slaves  in  the  famiHes  of  their  captors.  Their  descend- 
ents,  if  we  may  credit  Molina,  became  the  most  for- 
midable enemies  of  the  Spaniards  in  after  wars,  and 
it  is  probable  that  their  appearance,  wearing  the  Ma- 
puche  costume,  and  fighting  in  the  ranks  of  the  Bo- 
roans,  originated  the  belief  in  the  existence  of  a  tribe 
of  white  Indians. 

With  time  the  traces  of  Spanish  blood  have  become 
effaced  by  intermarriage  with  the  pure  Indian  race ; 
and  before  long  the  blue-eyed  warriors  of  Boroa  will 
live  only  in  story.  Even  the  few  that  remain  are  only 
comparatively  white,  and  could  never  be  mistaken  for 
members  of  the  Caucasian  race. 

On  the  road  we  came  across  a  Boroan  who  certainly 
showed  none  of  the  white  man,  and,  strange  to  say, 
little  of  the  Indian  ;  but  appeared  to  be  a  full-blooded 
Afirican  of  the  wooliest  kind.  This  creature — for 
whether  man  or  woman  it  was  hard  to  tell — wore  the 
male  attire,  and  spoke  in  harsh  accents ;  but  the  gen- 
eral appearance  was  that  of  a  woman,  which  she  doubt- 
less was,  though  she  had  evidently  a  desire  to  render 
her  sex  uncertain.  She  was  young,  but  exceedingly 
ugly,  with  an  expression  of  mingled  ferocity  and  cun- 
ning, and  may  have  been  an  imitator,  if  not  a  disciple, 
of  the  celebrated  female  machi  of  Boroa,  whose  tripod 
she  possibly  hoped  to  inherit.  She  may  have  been 
crazy ;  but  it  is  more  probable  that  she  had  assumed 


C  A  N  C  U  R  A.  295 

the  "celestial  madness,"  which  is  somehow  always 
connected  with  the  idea  of  inspiration. 

As  we  approached,  this  enigma  addressed  us  with 
voice  and  words  equally  harsh ;  but  feeling  no  desire 
to  quarrel  with  so  interesting  a  young  lady,  we  kept 
on  with  merely  a  passing  salute. 

Leaving  the  Quepe  we  turned  to  the  westward,  pass- 
ing a  succession  of  gently  undulating  hills,  parched  and 
desolate  in  the  extreme,  until  we  reached  Cancura, 
and  stopped  at  the  house  of  a  Cazique  named  Ayllal. 

The  house,  like  all  others  in  this  region,  was  dif- 
ferently constructed  from  those  farther  to  the  north, 
liaving  much  the  form  of  a  boat  turned  upside  down, 
and  being  built  entirely  of  reeds  and  cane,  presented, 
at  a  short  distance,  the  appearance  of  a  haystack.  Its 
length  was  about  a  hundred  and  forty  feet,  and  the 
width  some  thirty  odd.  The  peak  stood  near  fifteen 
feet  from  the  ground,  and  the  sides  sloped  down  with- 
out any  eaves.  The  customary  shed  of  cane  and  twigs 
was  ranged  on  one  side,  and  in  front  ran  the  heavy 
cross-bar,  within  which  no  stranger  presumes  to  enter 
without  an  invitation. 

The  interior  reminded  me  of  a  ship's  between-decks. 
On  either  hand  stood  a  row  of  cane  partitions,  form- 
ing, as  it  were,  state-rooms  for  the  various  members 
of  tlie  family — which  was  a  large  one,  as  several  of 
the  sons  were  married.  Overhead  were  the  usual  pro- 
vision-lofts, and  down  the  middle  of  the  cabin  blazed 
half  a  dozen  fires,  each  having  an  aperture  above  it  in 
the  ceiling,  through  which  the  smoke  rose  and  found 
its  way  out  through  the  chimney-holes  left  open  in 
the  centre  and  at  each  end  of  the  roof.     Large  stones 


296  THE     A  K  A  U  C  A  N  I  A  N  S. 

were  ranged  around  the  fires  to  support  the  pots  used 
for  cooking,  and  the  ashes  were  allowed  to  accumulate 
as  they  fell — a  custom  adding  nothing  to  the  cleanli- 
ness of  the  ladies  who  were  squatted  round  preparing 
the  evening  meal. 

Where  a  family  is  small  each  wife  has  her  own 
separate  fire-place,  and  the  polite  manner  of  inquiring 
the  number  of  a  man's  wives  is  to  ask,  "  How  many 
fires  do  you  burn  ?"  But  where  the  number  is  large 
this  is  impossible,  and,  as  in  the  present  instance, 
several  cook  at  one  fire. 

As  the  cooking  goes  on  at  all  hours,  these  houses 
are  always  smoky,  and  it  is  probably  owing  to  this 
cause  that  most  of  the  old  women  are  troubled  with 
inflammation  of  the  eyes. 

One  of  the  neighbors  was  dangerously  ill,  and  dur- 
ing the  night  there  was  a  grand  machitun  performed 
by  the  arch-exorcist,  the  medicine-woman  of  Boroa 
herself.  I  wished  to  be  present,  but  Sanchez  would 
not  listen  to  such  a  proposal,  insisting  that  we  might 
expose  ourselves  to  violence  by  appearing  to  interfere 
with  this  witch,  whose  hatred  of  the  whites  and  influ- 
ence over  the  natives  are  alike  unbounded. 

The  night  was  black  and  threatening — ^well  suited 
to  her  machinations.  We  could  plainly  hear  the  mo- 
notonous tap  of  the  Indian  drum  and  the  discordant 
song  occasionally  rising  with  the  frenzy  of  the  moment 
into  a  shrill  scream,  then  sinking  to  a  low,  guttural 
cadence,  while  all  else  was  hushed  as  for  very  dread 
of  the  unhallowed  rites.  Suddenly  the  singing  stopped, 
and  there  was  a  long  silence,  broken  by  the  eruptipn 
of  a  wild  troop  of  naked  savages  rushing  around  the 


THE     WIVES     OF     AYLLAL.  297 

house  on  horse  and  a-foot,  brandishing  fiercely  lance 
and  sword,  and  burning  faggot,  and  blazing  torch,  and 
making  night  hideous  with  their  demoniac  cries.  The 
frightened  dogs  howled  in  dismal  concert,  and  again 
all  was  still.  The  evil  spirit  had  been  cast  out  and 
driven  away.  It  only  remained  for  the  sick  man  to 
recover  or  die. 

At  Cancura  we  noticed  some  peculiarities  in  the 
dress  of  the  females,  especially  in  their  method  of 
wearing  the  hair,  which,  instead  of  being  twisted  ser- 
pent-like around  the  head,  or  allowed  to  hang  down  be- 
hind, was  puffed  out  at  the  sides  of  the  face,  and  hung 
in  a  couple  of  bead-twisted  queues  upon  the  breast. 

Calling  Jose's  attention  to  this  difference  of  fashion, 
our  conversation  naturally  turned  upon  female  dress, 
and  without  intending  any  disparagement  to  our  fair 
entertainers,  we  compared  them  with  the  women  we 
had  seen  at  the  house  of  Chancay.  The  women  who 
were  at  work  near  by  did  not  understand  half  a  dozen 
words  of  Spanish ;  but  with  that  intuitive  perception 
which  belongs  to  the  sex,  they  were  not  long  in  dis- 
covering: that  our  conversation  related  to  themselves 
and  their  dress. 

Immediately  they  held  a  council  of  war;  and  en- 
tering the  house,  they  presently  returned,  each  one 
bringing  a  net-bag  full  of  trinkets.  There  were  cov- 
erings for  the  head  and  breast  composed  of  strings  of 
beads  of  all  colors,  and  dangling  with  brass  thimbles 
and  silver  coins.  There  were  rings  and  pendants  for 
ears  and  nose ;  bracelets  and  anklets,  collars  and 
breast-pins  of  colossal  proportions.  These  were  held 
up  for  our  admiration ;   and  that  we  might  more  fully 


298  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

realize  their  wealth,  the  ladies  proceeded  to  deck  them- 
selves with  all  their  finery.  They  were  at  the  same 
time  jabbering  at  the  top  of  their  lungs,  proving  their 
own  superiority  to  all  other  women,  and  appealing  to 
us  for  a  confirmation  of  their  own  good  opinions. 

Finally,  the  belle  of  the  lot  having  ornamented  her 
head,  breast,  and  arms  to  their  fullest  capacity,  stepped 
in  advance  of  the  others,  and  raising  her  dress  as  high 
as  the  knee,  displayed,  to  our  astonished  gaze,  a  re- 
markably well-rounded  piece  of  flesh  and  blood.  Pat- 
ting the  calf  with  honest  pride,  and  turning  it  about 
for  inspection,  she  hung  it  round  with  beads,  adjusted 
the  many-colored  anklets,  and  snapping  her  fingers 
contemptuously,  poured  out  a  perfect  torrent  of  Ma- 
puclie.  Unfortunately  there  was  no  one  near  to  inter- 
pret this  harangue,  but,  from  her  actions  and  the  fi:e- 
quent  repetition  of  the  name  Chancay,  we  gathered 
her  meaning  to  be  pretty  much  that,  in  whatever  else 
the  wives  of  Chancay  might  excel,  she  would  defy 
them,  or  any  one  else,  to  produce  a  finer  leg  than  the 
one  before  us. 

We  nodded  assent,  and  reiterated  "  Came  I  cume  f 
(Good !  good !)  But  the  injured  fair  ones  were  not  to 
be  appeased,  and  it  was  only  when  repeatedly  sum- 
moned by  the  shrill  voice  of  the  Unendom,  or  first 
wife,  who  has  authority  over  the  rest,  that  they  re- 
turned to  their  labors. 

These  women  seemed  to  be  constantly  busied  in 
various  domestic  duties.  Some  were  cooking  for  their 
ever  hungry  lords.  Some  were  hulling  out  the  im- 
perfectly threshed  wheat  by  placing  it  in  shallow 
wooden   dishes,   standing  in  which,  they  kept  up  a 


WEAVING.  2dd 

kind  of  shuffling  motion,  throwing  up  the  grain  on  to 
one  foot,  and  rubbing  it  with  the  other,  alternating 
the  feet  in  a  manner  that  gave  them  the  appearance 
of  dancing  in  a  butter-bowl.  Others  were  winnowing 
the  wheat  thus  hulled,  by  tossing  it  up  into  the  air 
from  small  baskets. 

Under  the  same  shed  where  we  were  quartered,  but 
separated  from  us  by  a  low  fence,  were  two  rude  looms, 
similar  to  those  in  common  use  throughout  Chili. 
Upon  these  were  manufactured  all  the  woolen  articles 
worn  by  the  family,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  bright- 
colored  cloths  purchased  from  the  traders. 

Many  have  supposed  that  the  art  of  weaving  was 
introduced  among  the  Mapuches  by  the  Spaniards ; 
and  Ulloa  states  that,  in  his  time,  the  Indians  in  the 
interior  were  said  to  wear  no  clothing.  But  the  fact 
that  the  Mapuch^  language  contains  appropriate  names 
for  all  their  different  articles  of  clothing,  as  well  as 
verbs  to  express  the  making  of  such  articles,  would 
seem  to  prove  the  contrary.  Their  principal  dye  at 
present  is  indigo,  which  they  obtain  from  the  Chilenos. 
But  they  are  probably  acquainted  with  others,  for 
Molina  states  that  their  favorite  color  was  a  deep 
bluish  green. 

At  work  upon  the  looms  were  two  females — one  a 
girl  about  fourteen  years  of  age,  the  other  a  buxom 
widow  more  advanced  in  years,  but  still  blooming. 
When  there  were  no  men  about,  these  ladies  favored 
us  with  a  great  deal  of  attention,  talking  and  laughing 
with,  or  ratlier  at  us  continually ;  and  if  their  gestures 
were  at  all  appropriate,  much  of  their  conversation 
was  not  over-delicate.     Sometimes  they  would  reach 


300  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

over  the  partition  and  attempt  to  pilfer  from  our  lug- 
gage, and  the  widow,  who  was  the  bolder  of  the  two, 
went  so  far  as  actually  to  pick  my  squire's  pocket. 

Jos^  being  a  man  of  few  words,  immediately  seized 
the  disconsolate  widow,  and,  by  gentle  violence,  com- 
pelled a  restoration  of  his  property.  This  she  ap- 
peared to  take  in  good  part,  exhibiting  no  signs  of 
wrath ;  but  we  were  afterward  surprised  to  learn  that, 
on  the  return  of  the  men,  she  made  a  formal  complaint, 
accusing  my  trusty  follower  of  an  attempt  upon  her 
virtue — a  striking  proof  of  the  correctness  of  Mr. 
Weller's  opinion,  that  "vidders  are  dangerous!" 

This  trick,  it  seems,  is  often  resorted  to  for  the 
purpose  of  extortion.  But  whether  it  was  because  the 
lady's  veracity  was  doubted,  or  her  virtue  was  below 
par,  that  no  one  took  any  particular  interest  in  her 
wrongs,  or  that  our  party  was,  in  their  eyes,  too  re- 
spectable to  be  molested,  certain  it  is  that  nobody 
espoused  the  quarrel ;  and  the  widow,  controlling  her 
grief,  soon  became  as  familiar  and  as  troublesome  as 
ever. 


< 


CHAPTEE    XXYL 

The  Beggar's  Dance. — Making  Mudai. — Plain  of  Boroa. — The  Vol- 
canoes of  Ketredeguin,  Llayma,  Llogoll,  and  Villa  Eica. — Grind- 
'     ing  Com  at  Night. — Making  Bread. 

As  I  was  sitting  alone  one  day  during  Don  Panta's 
absence,  our  host,  Ayllal,  who  was  not  only  a  power- 
ful chief,  but  moreover  a  good-natured  soul,  seeing  me 
rather  down-in-the-mouth,  struck  upon  a  plan  which  he 
thought  could  not  fail  to  amuse  me. 

At  his  command  three  dirty  little  urchins,  with 
very  little  clothing  on,  approached  me ;  and  after  a 
profound  salaam,  fell  affectionately  about  my  neck. 
The  first  two  kissed  me  upon  the  cheek,  but  the  third, 
more  considerate  than  the  others,  saluted  me  on  the 
mouth.  Rising,  they  began  a  frantic  dance,  leaping 
into  the  air,  slapping  their  thighs,  and  screaming  in- 
cessantly some  words,  of  which  the  only  one  I  could 
catch  was  the  interrogative  "  CheTn  f "  ("What  ?")  which 
was  constantly  repeated. 

When  they  were  fairly  out  of  breath  they  stopped, 
and  repeated  the  kissing.  After  a  moment's  puffing, 
the  dance  was  resumed.  Then  came  another  breath- 
ing spell,  more  kissing,  and  another  dance. 

The  chief  and  otliers  Avere  applauding  the  boys,  and 
encouraging  them  to  renewed  exertions,  until  I  began 
to  fear  that  my  tormentors  would  never  get  through; 


302  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

but  Jose,  who  had  "been  studying  out  their  words, 
suggested  that  they  were  begging  for  something.  I 
ordered  him  to  open  oiu:  pack,  and  no  sooner  did  the 
red  and  yellow  handkerchiefs  appear  than  the  dancing 
ceased  as  if  by  magic. 

As  the  dancers  capered  around,  each  with  a  fanciful 
turban  twisted  about  his  head,  the  father  seemed 
proud  of  his  sons,  but  he  was  not  quite  satisfied ; 
something  was  still  wanting  to  complete  his  happi- 
ness, and  after  waiting  some  time,  as  if  in  expecta- 
tion, he  intimated,  partly  by  signs,  partly  by  a  mix- 
ture of  broken  Spanish  and  Mapuche,  that  he  was 
fond  of  music,  and  reminded  me  that  I  had  not  yet 
given  him  even  a  Jew's-harp. 

In  consideration  of  his  importance  I  presented  him 
with  a  brass  harmonicon.  No  child  could  have  been 
more  pleased  with  the  toy  than  was  this  gray  haired 
chieftain,  at  whose  command  hill  and  vale  for  many 
a  mile  around  would  bristle  with  quivering  lances, 
ever  ready  to  do  his  behests. 

While  the  females  were  engaged  at  their  various 
avocations,  one  of  them  brought  out  a  dish  of  meal, 
sliglitly  moistened,  and  a  small  earthen  jug,  both  of 
which  she  set  down  upon  the  ground.  One  of  the 
girls  approached,  took  a  handful  of  the  meal,  and 
made  it  into  a  ball,  which  she  stuffed  into  her  mouth, 
and  with  both  cheeks  distended  she  returned  to  her 
work.  Another  followed,  and  another,  until  all,  from 
tlie  young  children  to  the  toothless  old  crones,  wrink- 
led and  blear-eyed,  were  busy  munching  and  chew- 
ing, with  their  faces  puffed  out  like  balls,  but  s»ti]l 
managing  to  keep  up  a  ceaseless  jabbering.     In  a  few 


I 


I 


MAKING     M  U  D  A  I. 


303 


minutes  the  fii'st  returned,  and  lifting  up  the  jug, 
emptied  into  it  the  whole  contents  of  her  mouth.  She 
took  another  mouthful  of  meal  and  went  off,  chew- 
ing as  before.  The  rest  followed  in  due  time,  and  so 
it  went  on  until  the  meal  was  exhausted,  and  the  jug 
was  full. 

Puzzled  to  comprehend  such  singular  proceedings, 
I  approached  one  of  the  women,  and  pointing  to  the 
jug,  inquired,  "  Chem  tuaT  ("What  is  that?") 

"Mudai!"  she  answered. 

"What!  Mudai?" 

"  Yes,"  she  answered,  and  laughing  at  my  surprise, 
she  added,  '^  Cume !  cumef''  ("Good!  good!") 

It  was  useless  to  seek  further  information  in  that 


MAKIXG    MUDAI. 


304  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

quarter,  and  hunting  up  Sanchez  I  inquired  of  him 
what  they  were  doing  ? 

"Making  mudai,"  he  answered,  composedly. 

"What!  mudai,  the  liquor  I  have  been  drinking 
for  a  month  past  ?" 

"  The  very  same,"  he  replied,  and  without  noticing 
the  nervous  twitchings  of  my  face,  he  went  on  to  de- 
scribe the  process  of  manufacturing  this  beverage, 
which  is  a  kind  of  beer,  with  a  sub-acid,  and  not  un- 
pleasant taste. 

A  bushel  or  more  of  wheat  is  boiled  over  a  slow 
fire  for  several  hours,  at  the  end  of  which  time  the 
decoction  is  strained  off  and  set  aside  to  cool.  To 
this  a  jug-full  of  masticated  grain  is  added,  in  order  to 
produce  a  rapid  fermentation.  So  soon  as  the  ferment- 
ation commences,  the  mudai  is  considered  fit  for  use. 

A  bumper  of  the  fresh  brewed  was  offered  me  be- 
fore night,  but  I  respectfully  declined.  This  pro- 
cess of  beer-making  does  not  seem  peculiar  to  the 
Mapuches,  for  Herndon,  in  his  "  Valley  of  the  Ama- 
zon," speaks  of  a  native  drink  prepared  in  much  the 
same  way. 

Cider  is  the  only  other  liquor  made  by  the  Indians 
at  the  present  time,  for  they  procure  all  their  wines 
from  the  Chilenos.  But  it  is  probable  that  they  un- 
derstood wine-making  before  the  arrival  of  the  Span- 
iards, for  the  wild  grape  is  found  to  some  extent  in 
Chili,  and  the  word  jpulcu^  universally  used  to  sig- 
nify wine,  is  Mapuche. 

From  the  hills  of  Cancura  there  was  an  extended 
and  beautiful  view.  At  our  feet  the  plain,  where 
may  still  be  seen  the  ruins  of  the  last  Spanish  out- 


THE     PLAIN     OF     BORUA. 


305 


post  (Boroa),  was  rolled  out  like  a  map.  The  Cantin 
and  Quepe,  two  tlireads  of  silver,  were  glistening  in 
the  sun  ;  upon  the  far  horizon  the  Cordilleras  hung  like 
clouds  in  mid-air,  unconnected,  as  it  seemed,  with 
the  plain  ;  over  which  rose  a  vail  of  mist,  severing  the 
earth  from  the  dim  mountain-tops ;  and  above  all,  a 
sight  rarely  to  be  met,  towered  four  volcanoes,  all 
plainly  visible  at  the  same  time.  First  to  the  north 
stood  Ketredeguin,  black,  desolate,  and  threatening; 
followed  by  the  graceful,  double  peak  of  Llayma, 
clothed  with  a  robe  of  purest  white;  then  came  the 
majestic  Llogoll,  clad  in  eternal  snows,  and  far  to  the 
south  glittered  the  cone  of  Yilla  Eica — Ercilla's 

"  Gran  volcan  vecino, 
Frague  segun  afirman  de  Vulcano, 
Que  regoldando  fuego  esta  contino" — 

whose  untold  wealth  of  hidden  mines  lured  the  greedy 
Spaniard  to  build  an  ill-fated  city  far  in  the  depths  of 
the  wilderness. 

Llayma  and  Llogoll  were  plainly  active,  pouring 
out  columns  of  smoke,  that,  sweeping  along  in  wavy 
masses,  extended  far  to  the  north  like  an  unbroken 
bank  of  clouds.  At  times  the  summit  of  Ketredeguin 
seemed  wreathed  in  smoke,  though  the  distance  was 
too  great  to  enable  us  to  distinguish  clearly ;  but  Yilla 
B/ica,  which  is  generally  in  a  state  of  eruption,  present- 
ed no  signs  of  activity. 

As  there  were  several  houses  in  full  view,  it  was 
impossible  at  this  time  to  take  a  sketch  of  the  scene 
without  exciting  suspicion. 

We  were  now  near  the  southern  boundary  of  the 
Araucanian  territory,  and  another  day's  journey  would 


306  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

liave  taken  me  to  Valdivia,  had  I  been  willing  to 
leave  Sanchez  and  go  forward  with  an  Indian  guide. 

At  another  season  of  the  year  I  would  have  done 
so,  being  desirous  of  visiting  the  southernmost  prov- 
inces of  Chili,  having  now  sufficiently  gratified  my 
curiosity  in  regard  to  the  world-renowned  Araucani- 
ans ;  but  as  the  season  was  arriving  at  which  the 
heavy  northwesterly  winds  prevail,  rendering  the 
passage  to  Valparaiso  by  sea  difficult,  I  determined 
to  return  with  Sanchez  to  Los  Angelos,  and  prepara- 
tions were  accordingly  made  for  facing  to  the  north  on 
the  morrow. 

About  two  hours  after  midnight  we  were  awakened 
by  a  peculiar  sound.  The  women  were  all  engaged 
in  the  house,  near  by,  grinding  wheat. 

The  low,  incessant  rumbling  of  the  mills  was  accom- 
panied by  a  soft  musical  whistle,  with  which  each  one 
lightened  her  toil.  All  moved  to  the  one  monotonous 
cadence,  which  seems  to  embody  their  only  conceptions 
of  music,  serving  for  every  occasion,  whether  the  bur- 
den of  the  song  be  joy  or  sorrow. 

Occasionally  some  one  would  sing  for  a  few  min- 
utes, and  then  drop  the  theme,  to  be  taken  up  by  an- 
other, improvising  as  they  sang.  Sanchez,  who  was 
lying  near,  translated  for  me  a  few  of  the  stanzas. 
The  song  was  simple,  referring  mostly  to  their  labor. 
The  following  may  serve  as  a  sample : 

"  We  are  grinding  wheat  for  the  stranger 
Who  has  come  from  a  long  way  off. 
May  the  flour  be  white  to  his  eye 
And  pleasant  to  his  taste,  t 

*    For  he  has  brought  us  beads ; 

He  has  given  us  bells  to  deck  our  hair." 


GRINDING     CORN.  307 

As  I  lay  gazing  up  at  the  tranquil  light  of  the 
stars,  long  before  the  first  gray  streakings  of  the 
dawn,  listening  to  that  busy  hum — the  earliest  pleas- 
ing sound  of  life  and  industry — my  mind  wandered 
to  the  far  East,  recalling  the  times  when  the  daugh- 
ters of  Israel  were  wont  to  rise  in  the  stillness  of  the 
night  and  grind  their  corn  for  the  approaching  day.* 

J^ever  before  had  I  fully  realized  the  import  of  that 
terrible  denunciation  against  the  children  of  Jerusa- 
lem— "I  will  take  from  them  the  sound  of  the  miK- 
stones,  and  the  light  of  the  candle." 

The  mill  used  by  the  Mapuches  in  no  way  differs 
from  that  already  described  as  in  common  use  among 
the  country  people  throughout  Chili.  It  is  the  same 
as  that  used  by  the  Mexicans,  as  also  by  the  ancient 
Hebrews,  and  is  doubtless  the  original  patent  taken 
out  by  Adam  when  first  doomed  to  eat  his  bread  in 
the  sweat  of  his  brow. 

Though  the  Mapuches  generally  use  wheat  in  the 
form  of  meal  mixed  with  water,  or  boiled  in  broth, 
they  also  understand  the  making  of  bread,  which  they 
call  "  covque."  We  did  not  see  any  of  it;  but  prob- 
ably it  is  not  unlike  the  unleavened  "pan  de  graza" 
of  the  Chilenos — a  species  of  bread  made  by  knead- 
ing the  flour  with  lard.  We  saw  several  of  their 
ovens,  which  were  simply  excavations  in  banks  of 
earth. 

*  We  learn  from  modern  travelers  that  this  custom  still  prevails 
among  the  Oriental  nations,  and  that  the  stranger  is  often  awakened 
at  an  early  hour  by  the  sound  of  the  mills  busy  in  grinding  corn  to 
supply  the  daily  wants  of  the  family. 


CHAPTER    XXYII. 

We  begin  our  Return. — Graves  of  the  Huilyiches. — Fording  Rivers. 
— Collecting  Cattle. — The  Rule  of  Three. — Ruins  of  Imperial. — 
A  Miracle. — Cattle-Driving. — The  troubles  of  Trauque. 

After  taking  an  affectionate  leave  of  Ayllal  and 
his  many  wives,  we  stai-ted  on  our  homeward  way. 

As  we  were  obliged  to  stop  at  various  places  to 
collect  the  animals  already  bought,  we  wandered  con- 
siderably from  the  beaten  trail,  and  saw  much  that 
was  new  and  interesting. 

We  had  several  fine  views  of  the  volcanoes ;  and 
taking  advantage  of  a  moment  when  no  one  was  in 
sight,  I  drew,  as  well  as  the  restiveness  of  my  horse 
would  permit,  a  hasty  sketch  on  a  blank  leaf  of  my 
note-book. 

As  we  came  down  into  the  plain,  Trauque,  who  rode 
some  distance  ahead,  commenced  shouting,  "iVam- 
culan  I  Namculan  /"  beckoning  to  me  in  great  glee. 
Not  knowing  what  to  expect,  but  nothing  doubting, 
I  put  spurs  to  my  horse,  and  galloped  to  the  spot 
where  the  Indian  stood  laughing  immoderately,  and 
applying  to  his  "  Huilyiche"  brethren  a  choice  selec- 
tion of  epithets,  both  Mapuche  and  Spanish.  The 
object  which  called  for  so  much  merriment  and  con- 
tempt, was  the  burial-place  of  some  departed  heno  and 
his  eight  or  ten  wives. 


GRAVES     OF     THE     HUILYICHES.       309 

Over  each  grave  was  planted  an  upright  log,  ten 
or  twelve  feet  high,  rudely  carved  to  represent  the 
human  frame.  The  chief — for  such  he  must  have 
been — stood  in  the  centre  of  the  group  with  no  other 
clothing  than  a  hat  and  a  sword,  while  on  either  hand 
were  ranged  the  wives  '-'- in  jpuris  naturalibus.^''  How- 
ever the  sculptor  may  have  fallen  short  in  other  re- 
spects, he  had  succeeded  admirably  in  distinguishing 
the  sexes,  which  seems  to  have  been  his  principal 
aim. 

These  figures,  however  rude,  require  more  than  or- 
dinary skill,  and  the  few  Indians  who  devote  them- 
selves to  this  branch  of  the  fine  arts,  reap  an  abund- 
ant harvest ;  for  a  carved  tombstone,  which  is  consid- 
ered indispensable  for  a  grandee,  will  bring  a  fat  ox 
or  two,  according  to  the  size  of  the  figure  and  the 
elaborateness  of  the  finish. 

These  were  the  only  carved  representations  of  the 
human  figure,  or  of  any  other  animate  object  that  we 
met  among  the  Mapuches,  for  they  have  no  idols, 
neither  do  they  mould  earthenware  vessels  into  the 
forms  of  men  and  animals,  as  was  customary  among 
the  Peruvians. 

The  Quepe  and  Cantin  were  forded  without  acci- 
dent, but  the  Indians  experienced  some  difficulty  in 
getting  the  animals  across.  What  with  their  unwill- 
ingness to  enter  the  stream,  their  unruliness  in  ford- 
ing, and  their  capers  on  reaching  the  opposite  shore, 
the  passage  of  a  large  drove  of  cattle  over  one  of  these 
rapid  streams  forms  an  amusing  and  exciting  scene. 
Here  a  wild  young  heifer  is  rushing  back  up  the 
bank,  followed  by  a  flaunting  red  poncho,  and  a  cata- 


310  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

ract  of  oaths.  In  the  middle  of  the  river  an  unruly 
bull  wheels  about  with  a  show  of  fight,  throwing  the 
whole  herd  into  confusion,  while  a  half-naked  savage 
dashes  about  in  the  water  swinging  his  lasso,  and 
hurling  at  the  belligerent  a  volley  of  gutturals,  hard 
enough  to  break  every  bone  in  his  body.  Meantime, 
on  the  farther  shore,  the  animals  as  they  land  scatter 
in  every  direction  over  the  boundless  plain. 

For  the  night  we  stopped  at  the  house  of  our  old 
friend  the  Ghelmen,  upon  the  shores  of  the  Cantin. 

As  we  rose  in  the  morning  a  beautiful  sight  pre- 
sented itself.  The  sun,  just  about  to  rise,  tinted  the 
eastern  sky  with  the  most  brilliant  hues,  forming  a 
gorgeous  background,  upon  which  the  two  volcanoes, 
Llayma  and  Llogoll,  stood  out  in  bold  relief — so  dis- 
tinctly that  we  could  perceive  the  curling  of  the  smoke 
jets  as  they  rose  from  the  craters. 

The  day  was  spent  in  collecting  the  animals  which 
had  been  bought  in  the  neighborhood.  They  had  all 
been  paid  for  at  the  time  of  making  the  bargain,  and 
left  to  be  claimed  on  "our  return,  yet  there  was  no 
delay,  nor  any  attempt  to  defraud  in  giving  them  up ; 
and  whenever  a  question  arose  as  to  the  particular 
animal  that  had  been  agreed  upon,  the  trader  was  al- 
lowed to  make  his  own  selection.  It  happened  so 
throughout  the  journey,  though,  in  several  instances, 
nearly  a  month  elapsed  between  the  purchase  and  the 
delivery. 

The  capture  of  a  particular  animal  from  a  herd, 
with  a  range  of  pasture  utterly  unbounded,  except  by 
mountains  and  rivers,  is  often  difficult,  and  gives  rise 
to  many  exciting  chases  and  ludicrous  scenes.     Even 


THE     RULE     OF     THREE..  311 

when  taken,  the  captives  are  not  easy  of  management 
— then:  attachment  for  old  associates  manifesting  itself 
in  frequent  attempts  to  return. 

One*particular  bull  gave  great  trouble.  He  was  a 
noble  fellow,  of  spotless  white — such  a  one  as  bore 
the  beautiftil  Europa  through  the  waters  of  the  Phe- 
nician  deep,  or  such  a  one  as  might  be  worshiped 
upon  the  shores  of  the  Ganges. 

After  a  long  pursuit  he  was  lassoed,  and  the  horse- 
man, who  had  literally  taken  the  bull  by  the  horn, 
started  off  complacently  to  lead  him  to  the  place  of 
gathering.  But  his  buUship  did  not  take  the  going 
as  a  matter  of  course,  for  with  a  mad  bellow  he 
charged  upon  his  captor,  who,  seeing  a  very  formida- 
ble pair  of  horns  dashing  toward  him,  started  at  fall 
■gallop,  still  holding  fast  the  lasso,  which  he  in  vain 
tried  to  keep  "taut."  The  horse  was  jaded,  and  old 
Whitey  was  fast  gaining.  Another  Indian  bounded 
forward,  and  dexterously  throwing  his  lasso,  caught 
the  unoccupied  horn,  bringing  up  the  pursuer  with  a 
round  turn.  The  bull  was  not  yet  conquered.  After 
plunging  and  pawing,  bellowing  and  tossing,  for  a 
while,  he  changed  his  tactics.  Making  a  rush  and  a 
feint  at  one  of  his  annoyers,  he  wheeled  about  sud- 
denly, and  nearly  succeeded  in  catching  the  other  on 
his  horns.  Things  were  becoming  more  complicated 
than  ever,  when,  as  the  infuriated  animal  stood  head 
down,  with  his  tail  stuck  out  at  an  angle  of  forty-five 
degrees,  a  third  horseman  came  to  the  attack,  and 
whirling  his  lasso,  with  a  jerk,  caught  the  "caudal 
extremity"  in  a  running  knot ! 

Thus  the  two  men  at  the  sides  were  safe,  provided 


312  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

the  man  behind  kept  his  lasso  strained.  But  a  ques- 
tion in  the  "  rule  of  three"  now  arose :  "If  three  men 
catch  a  bull,  one  hj  each  horn,  and  one  by  the  tail, 
and  all  pull  in  different  directions,  which  way  can  the 
buUgo?" 

No  one  seemed  able  to  work  out  the  answer ;  but 
Katrilao  was  a  man  ready  for  all  emergencies,  and 
dismounting,  he  started  to  the  assistance  of  his  com- 
panions, armed  with  a  long  lance  and  a  red  poncho. 
Running  before  the  bull,  he  threw  the  poncho  on  the 
ground,  a  few  paces  in  front ;  the  man  behind  slack- 
ened a  little,  and  the  bellowing  captive  made  a  des- 
perate plunge  at  the  red  cloth.  A  jerk  on  the  tail 
stopped  farther  progress  until  Katrilao,  picking  up 
the  poncho  on  the  tip  of  the  lance,  tossed  it  several 
yards  in  advance.  There  was  another  slackening, 
another  plunge,  another  jerk,  and  so  on  until  the 
"  critter"  was  brought  to  the  desired  spot. 

The  next  trouble  was  to  loose  the  captive.  Sundry 
scientific  pulls  brought  him  to  the  ground,  and  Katri- 
lao springing  forward  slipped  the  lassos  from  the 
horns.  But  another  remained  on  the  tail.  That,  no 
one  would  venture  to  untie,  for  the  bull  had  risen, 
and  stood  glaring  frantically  around.  An  Indian,  un- 
sheathing his  long  knife,  ran  full  tilt  at  the  extended 
tail,  and  with  one  blow  severed  the  greater  part  of  that 
useful  member  from  the  body. 

This  last  was  the  "unkindest  cut  of  all."  The 
poor  brute  was  fairly  conquered.  He  stood  with  head 
hanging,  eyes  glaring,  the  tongue  lolling  from  his 
frothing  mouth,  his  once  spotless  coat  defiled  Tyith 
foam  and  dirt,  while  the  drip,  drip,  drip  of  the  warm 


A     MIRACLE.  313 

blood  upon  liis  heels,  rendered  the  abjectness  of  his 
misery  complete. 

In  one  of  his  rides,  in  this  neighborhood,  Sanchez 
came  upon  the  site  of  the  ancient  Imperial.  He  did 
not  inform  me  until  it  was  too  late  to  turn  back,  but 
he  assured  me  that  nothing  remained  except  the  grass- 
grown  traces  of  the  streets  and  houses,  such  as  I  had 
already  seen  at  Colhu^. 

This  town,  which  was  the  most  important  of  the 
Spanish  settlements  in  Araucania,  was  subjected  to 
frequent  attacks,  and  several  times  narrowly  escaped 
destruction.  On  one  occasion,  if  we  may  believe  Er- 
cilla,  it  was  saved  only  by  divine  interposition. 

To  make  a  long  story  short,  while  the  Indians  were 
encamped  within  a  short  distance  of  Imperial,  the 
Devil  appeared,  riding  on  a  fiery  dragon  with  twisted 
tail  and  forked  tongue,  and  urged  them  on  to  the  de- 
struction of  the  city,  which  he  represented  as  unable 
to  withstand  their  overwhelming  force.  Influenced 
by  this  counsel,  they  took  up  their  march,  when  sud- 
denly the  heavens  opened,  and  a  beautiful  woman, 
more  resplendent  than  the  sun,  descended,  accompa- 
nied by  a  venerable  old  man.  Addressing  the  savages 
mildly,  she  advised  them  to  turn  back,  for  God  had 
given  them  into  the  power  of  the  Spaniards,  any  re- 
bellion against  whose  authority  would  subject  the  of- 
fender to  the  divine  wrath. 

Saying  thus,  she  ascended,  leaving  her  hearers  in 
stupid  admiration.  They  of  course  followed  her  ad- 
vice in  preference  to  the  Devil's,  and  returned  to  their 
homes. 

The  date  of  this  undoubted  miracle,  which,  says 
.O 


314  THE     AliAUCANIANS. 

the  gossiping  old  clironicler,  was  attested  by  many 
eye-witnesses,  was  the  23d  of  April,  1554. 

For  what  reason  the  divine  protection  was  afterward 
withdrawn,  we  do  not  learn;  but  the  almost  obliter- 
ated ruins  of  Imperial  bear  silent  witness  that  when 
the  too  long  oppressed  savages  again  arose  in  their 
might,  no  miraculous  hand  was  stretched  out  to  ward 
off  the  impending  destruction. 

Our  drove  was  continually  receiving  additions,  and 
as  many  of  the  cattle  were  perfectly  wild,  we  had  a 
number  of  little  episodes  that  served  to  enliven  the 
journey. 

Many  was  the  long  chase,  and  great  was  the  whirl- 
ing of  lassos,  and  the  brandishing  of  pointless  lances 
as  some  refractory  animal  would  wheel  about  and 
make  a  bee  line  for  the  South  Pole. 

At  the  first  thicket  of  coligue  I  procured  a  long, 
quivering  cane,  and  thus  equipped  enrolled  myself  in 
tlie  ranks,  dashing  off  with  the  rest  whenever  there 
was  a  stampede,  entering  into  the  wild  excitement  of 
the  chase,  and  feeling  as  though  there  were  no  life 
more  noble  and  inspiring  than  that  of  the  untram- 
meled  Guacho  coursing  over  the  boundless  pampas  in 
the  full  flow  of  joyous  animal  spirits,  and  in  the  proud 
consciousness  of  power. 

My  horse,  too,  caught  the  infection.  Pricking  up 
his  ears  he  bounded  off,  without  waiting  for  the  ad- 
monition of  bit  or  spur,  snorting  in  exultation,  and 
displaying  a  degree  of  enthusiasm  of  which  I  had  not 
thought  him  capable. 

The  Indian,  Trauque,  who  had  always  shoNvn  a 
liking  for  me,  was  delighted  as  I  galloped  about  lance 


CATTLE-DRIVING.  315 

in  hand.  Not  a  moment  passed  that  he  did  not  shout 
my  name,  Namculan  !  Nainculan  !  at  the  top  of  his 
lungs,  waving  his  hand  in  encouragement,  and  declar- 
ing that  I  needed  but  a  slight  acquaintance  with  the 
language  to  become  a  perfect  Mapuche. 

He  even  wished  to  instruct  me  in  the  use  of  the 
laqid  ;  but  as  the  tyro  is  apt  to  rap  himself  about 
the  head  and  shoulders,  I  did  not  take  many  les- 
sons. While  thus  engaged,  I  noticed  that  two  of  the 
stones  of  his  laqui  were  enveloped  in  several  folds  of 
leather,  while  the  third  was  left  entirely  naked  at  the 
sides. 

"  When  I  fight  with  2^  friend,^''  said  Trauque,  show- 
ing one  of  the  covered  balls,  "I  use  this ;  but  when  I 
fight  with  an  enemy,  I  strike  him  with  that ! "  pointing 
to  the  bare  stone. 

Our  progress  was  necessarily  slow  and  uncertain, 
and  we  passed  several  nights  far  firom  any  house,  in 
the  most  quiet  and  sheltered  nooks  that  could  be 
found.  We  made  no  fires  for  fear  of  attracting  visit- 
ors who  might  be  thievishly  inclined,  and  conse- 
quently could  cook  no  supper.  On  such  occasions  we 
had  to  fall  back  upon  the  provisions  that  our  saddle- 
bags afforded,  and  more  than  once  we  passed  the 
whole  twenty-four  hours  with  no  other  food  than  green 
apples  and  toasted  wheat.  ♦ 

Strange  to  say,  with  this  vile  diet  we  all  enjoyed 
the  most  robust  health,  and  I  became  convinced  that 
daily  exercise  on  horseback,  and  living,  as  we  did, 
entirely  in  the  open  air,  will  enable  a  person  of  natu- 
rally good  constitution  to  eat  any  thing  with  impu- 
nity. 


316  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

At  a  house  upon  the  road  we  were  unexpectedly 
detained  until  late,  and  we  determined  to  stay  there 
for  the  night.  Meantime  Trauque,  who  had  been  re- 
quested to  go  on  for  a  few  miles  and  await  us,  was 
broiling  in  the  hot  sun  for  half  a  day,  without  food  or 
company,  and  was,  moreover,  robbed  of  his  tobacco 
and  his  Jew's-harp  by  some  Ishmaelites,  who,  finding 
him  alone  in  the  fields,  signified  their  partiality  for 
smoking  and  music,  at  the  same  time  making  a  hostile 
display  of  knives  and  laquis. 

No  one  remembered  the  poor  fellow's  situation  until 
reminded  of  it  by  his  returning  at  night,  looking  five 
times  more  black  and  scowling  than  ever.  Throwing 
himself  on  the  ground,  he  sat  wrapped  up  in  his  pon- 
cho, unwilling  to  listen  to  excuses,  and  answering 
only  in  angry  monosyllables.  Seeing  him  in  this 
humor,  I  said  nothing  to  him,  but  was  turning  away, 
when,  looking  up  at  me,  he  said, 

^'' JS^amculan,  won't  you  speak  to  inef 

His  voice  was  tremulous  with  emotion ;  and  as  I 
saw  the  big  tears  standing  in  his  eyes,  I  could  have 
hugged  the  black  rascal — had  he  not  been  so  dirty. 

There  was  no  earthly  reason  why  this  Indian  should 
have  formed  such  an  attachment  to  me ;  but  the  likes 
and  dislikes  of  the  untutored  savage,  like  those  of  a 
child,  are  unaccountable  and  uncontrollable.  To  be 
left  upon  the  plains  to  starve,  or  to  be  beaten  like  a 
dog,  and  he  a  Ghehnen,  was  an  insult  that  his  fiery 
spirit  could  not  brook ;  but  to  be  treated  with  indif- 
ference by  one  from  whom  he  expected  sympathy, 
was  wounding  to  the  finer  chords  of  his  nature,'  and 
he  felt  as  does  a  child  when  treated  with  coldness  by 


A 


TEOUBLES     OF     TRAUQUE.  317 

those  from  whom  he  would  seek  consolation  in  his 

SOITOW. 

But  a  good  supper  and  a  pipeful  of  tobacco  had  a 
soothing  effect  upon  the  nerves  of  our  Ghelmen,  and 
in  the  morning  he  was  in  as  good-humor  as  ever,  seem- 
ing to  forget  his  misfortunes  of  the  day  before. 


CHAPTER    XXYIII. 

Arrive  at  Manin's. — ^Nachi. — The  Game  of  Pelican. — Gambling. — 
Avas. — Teetotum. — Sumeles. — A  new  Sister. — Sad  Parting, — 
Eheumatism. — Budeo. — Good-by  to  Arauco. 

When  we  arrived  at  Manin's  house  the  old  gen- 
tleman was  not  at  home,  and  we  determined  to  wait 
twenty-four  hours  in  order  to  see  him. 

Our  Trauque  immediately  went  to  his  own  house, 
and  soon  after  invited  us  to  come  and  partake  of  a 
sheep,  which  he  had  procured  for  our  entertainment. 
We  obeyed  the  summons,  but  were  surprised  to  find 
the  sheep  not  yet  dead,  for  our  friend  intended  to  give 
us  the  extra  treat  of  a  dish  of  nachi. 

This  dish,  which  is  considered  a  great  luxury,  is 
essentially  Mapuche,  and  the  method  of  its  prepara- 
tion is  interesting. 

The  animal  is  hung  up  by  the  fore  feet  instead  of 
the  hind,  as  usual.  The  operator  then  carefully  cuts 
the  windpipe,  down  which  he  stuffs,  by  the  handful, 
a  mixture  of  red  pepper  and  salt.  This  done,  the 
jugular  is  severed,  and  pulled  out  sufficiently  to  turn 
the  mouth  of  the  vein  into  the  windpipe,  down  which 
the  blood  flows,  carrying  the  pepper  and  salt  into  the 
lungs.  The  poor  writhing  creature  is  soon  swollen 
up,  and  dies  in  exquisite  agony.  > 

When  the  sheep  is  opened,  the  lungs  are  found  dis- 


THE     GAME     OF     PELICAN.  319 

tended  with  blood,  pepper,  and  salt,  the  whole  forming 
one  coagulated  mass.  This  is  the  hachL  It  is  care- 
fully extracted,  cut  in  slices,  and  served  up  warm 
from  the  still  quivering  animal ! 

Early  in  the  morning  we  saw  a  number  of  boys 
engaged  upon  the  fine  lawn  in  front  of  the  house,  in 
planting  out  twigs  at  short  intervals,  thus  forming  an 
alley  about  forty  feet  wide,  and  some  three  hundred 
long.  They  were  preparing  for  a  game  of  pelican. 
Others  were  blowing  a  long  horn  (formed  by  the  in- 
sertion of  a  cow's  horn  into  a  hollow  cane),  to  the 
tones  of  which  came  back  answering  notes,  as  though 
a  rival  band  were  approaching  over  the  hills.  The 
night  before  we  had  heard  the  same  challenge  to  the 
neighboring  youths,  and  the  same  echoing  reply,  but 
more  faint  and  distant. 

At  last  the  enemy  was  seen  emerging  from  the 
woods ;  a  shout  of  welcome  arose ;  there  were  many 
salutations,  a  "big  talk,"  and  all  put  themselves  in 
readiness  for  the  great  trial  of  skill. 

The  game  of  pelican  differs  but  little  from  the 
hockey,  or  shinty,  so  common  with  us  as  a  school-boy 
game.  It  is  played  with  a  small  wooden  ball,  pro- 
pelled along  the  ground  by  sticks  curved  at  the  lower 
end.  The  two  sides  have  their  bases  at  opposite  ex- 
tremes of  the  alley.  The  ball  is  placed  in  a  hole  half 
way  between  the  bases,  and  over  it  two  boys  are  sta- 
tioned, while  the  other  players  are  scattered  along  the 
alley,  each  armed  with  a  stick.  When  all  is  ready, 
the  two  boys  in  the  middle  strike  their  sticks  together 
in  the  air,  and  commence  a  struggle  for  the  ball,  each 
striving  to  knock  it  toward  the  opposite  party.     The 


320  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

object  of  every  one  is  to  drive  the  ball  through  his 
opponent's  base,  or,  in  defense  of  his  own,  to  knock 
it  sideways  beyond  the  bordering  line  of  twigs,  in 
which  case  the  trial  is  put  down  as  drawn,  and  recom- 
mences. Each  game  is  duly  notched  on  a  stick,  and 
the  party  first  tallying  a  certain  number  gains  the 
victory. 

There  was  much  shouting  and  scujffling,  many  a 
cracked  shin,  and  an  occasional  tumble — but  the 
greatest  good-will  reigned  throughout. 

Some  thirty  players  were  engaged  in  the  game — 
mostly  naked,  with  the  exception  of  a  poncho  about 
the  loins.  I  was  much  disappointed  by  their  physical 
development,  which  was  not  as  fine  as  I  had  expected 
to  see.  They  struck  me  as  inferior  to  the  laboring 
classes  in  Chili,  both  in  muscle  and  in  symmetry, 
though  possessing  the  same  general  features.  Neither 
was  their  playing  remarkable,  either  for  skill  or  activ- 
ity ;  and,  if  they  were  a  fair  sample,  it  would  be  an 
easy  matter  to  select  firom  many  of  our  large  schools 
or  colleges  a  party  of  young  men  more  than  a  match 
for  the  same  number  of  picked  Araucanians,  at  their 
own  national  game  oi pelican. 

As  the  heat  of  the  sun  increased,  the  game  of  peli- 
can  was  given  up,  and  the  players  scattered  about  in 
gToups  under  the  shady  trees.  The  game  of  avas  now 
commenced.  This  is  somewhat  like  dice,  and  is  played 
with  eight  beans  marked  on  one  side,  and  ten  small 
sticks  used  as  tallies. 

Upon  the  ground  is  spread  a  poncho,  upon  which 
the  players  sit  facing  each  other.  Alternately  they 
take  up  the  beans,  shake  them  in  the  hand,  and  throw 


GAMES. SUMELES.  323 

them  down  upon  the  poncho:  the  spots  turned  up 
are  counted,  and  the  one  first  reaching  a  hundred 
wins. 

While  thus  engaged  they  caress  the  beans,  kiss 
them,  talk  to  them,  rub  them  upon  the  ground  and 
on  their  breasts,  gesticulating  wildly,  and  shouting  at 
the  top  of  their  lungs,  imploring  good  luck  for  them- 
selves and  evil  for  their  opponents  with  as  much  sin- 
cerity as  though,  with  Pythagoras,  they  believed  that 
beans  have  souls. 

The  air  resounded  with  a  discord  of  wild  voices. 
Shirts,  ponchos,  laquis,  and  knives  were  staked,  rap- 
idly changing  hands  ;  and  more  than  one  of  the  play- 
ers returned  to  his  home  with  little  other  covering 
than  that  dame  Nature  had  furnished  him. 

Besides  the  avas,  they  have  a  game  of  chance 
played  with  a  four-sided  teetotum.  They  are  also 
said  to  play  several  games  of  skill,  and  among  others, 
one  somewhat  resembling  chess. 

Like  all  uncivilized  people,  they  are  excessively 
fond  of  gambling,  in  which  they  indulge  habitually. 
Many  a  Mapuche  has  staked  his  all  upon  the  turn  of 
a  bean — the  fate  of  prisoners  of  war-  has  often  de- 
pended upon  the  caprice  of  a  teetotum ;  and  more 
than  once,  when  disputes  have  arisen  in  the  national 
councils,  grave  questions  of  policy  have  been  decided 
by  a  game  oi  jpelicaii. 

Many  of  the  young  bucks,  drawn  together  by  the 
prospect  of  sport,  were  dressed  in  their  finest  toggery, 
and  from  one  of  them  I  bought  a  new  pair  of  sumeles. 

These  horse-skin  boots,  which  are  worn  by  the 
Guachos  of  Buenos  Ayres,  as  well  as  by  the  Indians, 


m 

324  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

are  made  without  peg  or  seam,  as  follows :  When  a 
horse  dies,  the  owner  strips  off  the  skin  from  the  hind 
leg  of  the  steed  and,  yet  reeking,  draws  it  on  to  his 
own.  The  top  is  folded  and  tied  at  the  knee,  and  the 
bottom,  if  too  long  for  the  foot,  is  cut  off.  It  is  worn 
until  dry,  when  it  is  taken  off,  scraped,  rubbed,  and 
again  drawn  on.  By  repeated  rubbings  it  becomes  as 
soft  and  pliable  as  buckskin. 

The  skin  of  the  horse's  knee  readily  adapts  itself  to 
the  wearer's  heel,  and  that  which  covered  the  shin 
shrinks  in  drying,  and  takes  the  exact  form  of  the 
foot;  while  at  the  point  the  boot  is  left  open  as  a 
matter  of  convenience  to  the  Indian,  who  in  riding 
always  takes  a  grip  with  the  big  toe  on  his  small  tri- 
angular wooden  stirrup. 

These  boots  are  very  comfortable  when  riding,  for 
which  purpose  alone  they  are  used — for  the  Indians 
at  other  times  go  barefooted.  The  cowhide  sandals 
and  moccasins  often  worn  by  the  poorer  classes  in 
Chili  and  Peru  are  unknown  to  the  Mapuches. 

In  the  evening  Manin,  my  adopted  father,  arrived. 
He  had  been  off  on  a  begging  tour,  collecting  a  tithe 
of  corn  and  potatoes  among  his  distant  vassals.  He 
congratulated  us  on  our  speedy  return,  and  charged 
us  with  many  friendly  messages  to  the  Intendente 
at  Los  Angelos,  as  weU  as  to  my  supposed  father, 
Yega. 

With  him  also  came  the  daughter  of  Juana,  the 
white  wife,  and  for  the  first  time  I  became  acquainted 
with  my  only  grown-up  sister.  She  was  about  fifteen, 
and  quite  pretty,  with  a  rich  complexion,  the  bright 
Spanish  blood  glowing  warmly  through  the  dark  olive 


SAD     PARTING.  325 

of  her  cheek.  She  was  decked  with  a  profusion  of 
barbaric  ornaments  ;  and  though  modest  and  retiring, 
possessed  an  air  of  pride  that  did  not  ill  beseem  a 
daughter  of  the  haughtiest  of  the  Araucanian  chiefs. 

I  gave  her  the  only  remaining  musical  instrument, 
with  which  she  seemed  highly  delighted,  and  doubt- 
less, to  the  present  day,  the  remembrance  of  her 
Huiiica  brother  is  inseparably  connected  with  a  penny 
whistle. 

Our  Trauque  seemed  really  sad  at  the  prospect  of 
being  separated  from  us,  and  exacted  from  me  a  prom- 
ise to  come  and  see  him  the  very  next  time  I  visited 
Los  Angelos.  But  a  present  of  the  jack-knife  which 
I  had  carried  on  the  journey  did  something  toward 
assuaging  his  gTief ;  and,  without  impeaching  the  dis- 
interestedness of  his  affection,  I  fear  the  promise  of  a 
striped  cotton  shirt  and  a  pair  of  fringed  drawers,  to 
be  sent  from  Los  Angelos,  almost  reconciled  him  to 
our  departure. 

Several  days  later  we  reached  the  Kaillim,  and 
stopped  for  the  night  at  the  house  of  Kilal. 

Bon'owing  a  hide,  I  made  my  bed  upon  it,  and  re- 
tired. About  midnight  I  awoke,  feeling  unpleasantly 
cold,  and  found  myself  lying  naked  in  the  wet  grass, 
with  a  strong  sou'wester  blowing  furiously  over  me. 
The  wind  had  blown  off  the  bed-clothing,  and  as  wx 
were  upon  a  side-hill,  I  had  managed  to  slide  down 
gently,  off  the  slippery  hide,  without  waking. 

I  crawled  back  and  made  up  my  bed  again  as  well 
as  I  could,  but  when  morning  came  every  bone  in  my 
body  had  a  separate  ache  of  its  own,  and  I  found  my- 
self in  pretty  much  the  condition  of  Sam  Slick's  horse, 


326  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

that  was  "  so  weak  in  the  joints  that  he  could'nt  stand 
up,  and  so  sore  in  the  ribs  that  he  could'nt  lie  down." 
In  addition,  I  had  a  violent  headache  and  a  high 
fever,  which  almost  disabled  me  from  proceeding,  for 
I  felt  at  times  as  though  I  should  fall  from  my 
horse. 

There  was  a  long  and  tedious  ride  before  us,  but 
it  was  fortunately  our  last  day's  journey,  and  I 
resolved  to  hurry  on,  for  I  feared  a  serious  illness ; 
and  there  was  something  horrible  in  the  very  idea 
of  being  sick  in  the  midst  of  these  barbarians. 

For  the  first  time,  I  yearned  to  be  once  more  among 
civilized  men,  and  it  was  with  heartfelt  joy  that  I 
looked  down  from  the  brow  of  the  last  hill  into  the 
little  valley  of  Budeo,  just  as  the  sun  was  setting. 
True,  we  were  still  in  the  Indian  country,  but  those 
scattered  huts  were  the  haunts  of  white  men,  and 
seemed  to  form  a  connecting  link  with  the  civilized 
world. 

Panta's  family  were  rejoiced  at  our  return.  To  me 
they  were  very  kind,  and  did  all  in  their  power  to 
make  me  comfortable. 

In  the  morning,  though  better,  I  still  suffered  from 
severe  rheumatic  pains,  and  it  was  not  till  the  second 
day  after  arriving  at  Budeo,  that  we  went  on  toward 
Los  Angelos. 

It  was  already  night  when  we  reached  the  ferry  on 
the  Bio-Bio,  and  the  last  boat  was  returning,  giving 
us  the  cheering  prospect  of  a  night  among  the  deso- 
late sand  heaps  around  us.  But  by  screaming  and 
informing  the  captain  of  the  barges  that  we  were  "com- 
missionados,"  and  in   great  haste  to  see  the  Inten- 


GOOD-BY     TO     ARAUCO.  327 

dente,   he   at   last  consented  to   send  another  boat 
for  us. 

Bidding  adieu  to  the  land  of  Arauco,  we  embarked, 
and  on  reaching  the  opposite  shore  I  felt  as  if  once 
more  among  my  fellow-creatures. 


CHAPTER    XXIX. 

San  Carlos. — Dona  Pablita. — A  Damper. — Los  Angelos. — A  Peri- 
patetic Government. — Town  of  Rere. — Palm  Sunday. — Concep- 
cion. — Visit  De  la  Vega. — Kindness  of  Friends. — Conclusion. 

At  San  Carlos  we  lodged,  as  before,  at  tlie  house 
of  Panta's  "  compadre."  The  kind-hearted  people 
were  very  glad  to  see  us  back,  and  none  more  so  than 
the  fair  Pablita,  who  sympathized  deeply  with  me 
in  my  distress ;  but  added  that  I  should  be  thankful 
for  having  returned  at  all — a  piece  of  good  fortune  that 
she  attributed  solely  to  St.  Joseph,  with  whom  she 
had  interceded  daily  in  our  behalf. 

My  little  friend  made  me  up  a  clean,  soft  bed  with 
the  best  the  house  could  afford,  and  after  a  month's 
roughing  on  bull-hides,  with  nothing  overhead  but  the 
blue  canopy  of  the  heavens,  the  white  sheets  and 
sheltering  roof  were  perfectly  Sybaritic;  but  on  re- 
tiring I  could  not  sleep.  I  missed  the  soft  radiance 
of  the  stars.  I  felt  stifled  for  want  of  air,  and  after 
dozing  for  a  few  minutes,  would  wake  with  a  sense 
of  pressure  upon  the  chest,  restraining  the  freedom  of 
the  lungs,  and  making  me  long,  for  my  hard  bed  on 
the  boundless  plain. 

The  house,  like  most  of  the  Chilian  ranchos,  was 
full  of  cracks,  through  which  the  wind  circulated  in  a 
manner  that  any  where  else  would  be  thought  intol- 


DONA     PABLITA.  329 

erable ;  but  the  change  was  too  sudden  for  my  fastid- 
ious lungs.  All  confinement  was  irksome,  and  it 
was  fiilly  a  week  before  I  could  sleep  with  comfort 
under  a  roof,  even  with  doors  and  windows  wide 
open. 

Early  in  the  morning  Dona  Pablita  was  at  my  bed- 
side with  a  fragrant  mate.  Then  there  was  no  look- 
ing-glass in  the  house  (for  my  own  now  gladdened 
the  heart  of  the  "  Oak-that-buds-in-the-Spring"),  and 
she  insisted  upon  combing  my  hair  and  tying  my  cra- 
vat. Her  little  attentions  were  so  sisterly,  and  she 
treated  me  so  much  like  an  invalid,  that  I  began  to 
feel  as  though  I  ought  to  wait  a  few  days  and  re- 
cruit ;  then  my  linen  was  dreadfully  in  need  of  re- 
pair, and  would  afford  a  good  excuse  for  repaying, 
in  a  solid  manner,  the  kindness  I  had  received. 
There,  too,  was  my  old  friend  the  commander  of 
the  garrison ;  it  would  be  too  bad  to  go  off  without 
seeing  him.  In  fact,  I  had  quite  a  notion  of  re- 
maining a  few  days  at  San  Carlos,  and  hinted  as 
much. 

The  intimation  produced  quite  a  flutter  among  cer- 
tain laces  and  ribbons  that  were  growing,  under  the 
needle,  into  some  inexplicable  article  of  coquetry, 
and  the  fair  sewer  was  ere  long  whispering  confi- 
dentially to  her  god-father  (Sanchez).  He  soon 
took  the  opportunity  of  informing  me  that  Dona 
Pablita  was  on  the  eve  of  being  married ;  and  that 
my  stay  in  the  house,  however  well  meant,  might 
cause  some  uneasiness  to  the  bridegroom. 

Now  I  had  no  reason  to  be  vexed;  I  certainly 
would  not  begrudge  the  young  couple  their  happiness 


B30  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

(which  after  all  was  problematical) ;  a  cottage  by  the 
shores  of  the  Bio-Bio,  even  though  illuminated  by  the 
constant  smile  of  a  pretty  face,  had  never  been  my 
ambition.  But  the  announcement  was  unexpected, 
and  it  did  feel  too  much  like  taking  a  shower-bath. 
However,  with  as  good  a  grace  as  possible,  I  ordered 
my  horse  to  be  immediately  saddled,  and  after  con- 
gratulating the  blushing  bride,  and  promising  to  send 
her  a  bridal  present,  I  mounted  and  started  at  full 
gallop  for  Los  Angelos. 

There  was  a  delightful  sense  of  freedom  in  being 
able,  once  more,  to  course  over  the  familiar  plain, 
alone,  unrestrained,  and  with  no  lurking  apprehension 
of  encountering  some  wandering  savage.  But  des- 
pite all  this  I  was  continually  haunted,  not  by  a  wild 
Mapuche,  but  by  somebody's  pretty  face,  and  I  fear 
that,  before  reaching  the  journey's  end,  my  horse's 
ribs  suffered  many  severe  inflictions  that  were  intended 
for  some  one  else — not  a  horse. 

Los  Angelos  was  in  an  uproar  of  excitement,  grow- 
ing out  of  the  expected  visit  of  the  President:  for 
Don  Manuel  Montt,  following  the  example  of  the  great 
Prince-President  of  the  model  French  Republic,  had 
undertaken  the  tour  of  his  dominions.  Not  only  did 
His  Excellency  travel,  but  with  him  the  whole  gov- 
ernment became  peripatetic ;  there  were  the  heads  of 
all  the  departments  with  their  clerks,  and  every  town 
and  village  along  the  road  became,  in  turn,  the  Capi- 
tal. Decrees  v/ere  scattered  broadcast ;  hospitals, 
churches,  bridges,  and  school-houses  were  every  where 
erected — on  paper,  and  the  joy  of  the  people  was  un- 
bounded— at  least  so  said  the  official  journals. 


PERIPATETIC     GOVERNMENT.  331 

Early  in  the  morning  a  courier  dashed  through  the 
streets,  announcing  that  the  President  might  be  mo- 
mentarily expected.  Drums  beat,  trumpets  sounded, 
and  the  garrison — horse  and  foot — turned  out,  and 
formed  along  the  principal  thoroughfare.  The  squads 
of  militia  from  the  surrounding  district  then  came 
pouring  in.  Mounted  on  the  most  wo-begone  ani- 
mals, armed  with  long  "coligue"  lances  tipped  with 
ii'on,  their  red  flannel  ponchos  begrimmed  with  dust, 
they  presented  but  a  sorry  appearance;  yet  these 
men,  with  a  little  training,  make  the  best  soldiers  in 
Chili.  As  the  natural  effect  of  climate  they  are  more 
hardy  than  the  people  to  the  north,  and  the  land  not 
being  (as  in  other  provinces)  completely  monopolized 
by  the  few,  the  most  of  them  are  small  land-owners, 
having  a  spirit  of  independence  unknown  to  the  ser- 
vile "peon,"  and  consequently  possess  that  morale 
which  in  the  composition  of  an  army  is  of  far  more 
importance  than  the  t[\.qx^  physique. 

The  people,  too,  were  all  out  in  their  best.  Flags 
streamed  from  every  house,  and  triumphal  arches 
spanned  the  street.  But  hours  rolled  on:  the  poor 
soldiers  were  broiling  in  the  sun,  and  it  was  not  till 
near  sunset  that  the  booming  of  a  gun  announced  the 
approach  of  the  procession. 

First  came  an  escort  of  dragoons ;  then  the  Gov- 
ernment, riding  in  ten  or  a  dozen  gigs.  All  were  en- 
veloped in  a  cloud  of  dust,  and  his  Excellency  was 
undistinguishable  from  the  rest.  The  bands  played ; 
the  troops  presented  arms,  and  the  cavalcade  moved 
slowly  up  the  street,  but  few  were  the  cheers  that 
arose.     There  was  no  outburst  of  enthusiasm.     The 


332  THE     ARAUCANIANS. 

people  were  sullen,  and  even  of  the  soldiers  that 
formed  the  procession,  there  were  probably  few  who 
would  not  have  joined  the  ranks  of  any  bold  con- 
spirator against  the  man  whom  they  were  assembled 
to  honor. 

Two  or  three  days  having  been  spent  in  reviewing 
troops,  straightening  out  the  affairs  of  the  province, 
and  decreeing  a  number  of  things  that  ought  to  be 
done,  the  President  and  his  cortege  moved  on  to'  Na- 
cimiento ;  and  Los  Angelos,  after  enjoying  the  short- 
lived glory  of  being  the  seat  of  government,  relapsed 
into  its  former  insignificance. 

Engaging  a  mozo,  I  set  out  for  Concepcion  by  a 
road  different  from  that  which  I  had  before  traveled. 

Night  overtook  us  before  we  reached  the  Laja,  and 
it  seemed  that  we  should  be  obliged  to  sleep  supper- 
less  on  the  plain ;  but  the  barking  of  a  dog  directed 
us  to  a  house  where  we  procured  a  "casuela,"  and  an 
abundance  of  grapes  and  new  wine. 

Soon  after  sunrise  we  reached  the  river,  but  we 
had  missed  the  ford,  and  though  piloted  by  a  coun- 
tryman, we  had  much  difficulty  in  crossing,  for  the 
bottom  was  fiill  of  holes  and  quicksands.  A  little 
farther  on  we  passed  the  E<io  Claro,  and  again  came 
upon  the  dreary  waste  of  volcanic  sand  which  skirts 
the  northern  bank  of  that  river. 

Over  this  we  rode  for  two  or  three  hours  until  we 
reached  the  foot  of  the  hills  forming  the  coast  range. 
So  far  we  had  experienced  no  difficulty  in  guessing 
the  way,  but  amidst  this  wilderness  of  hills  we  were 
soon  lost.  Neither  the  servant,  who  was  worthless, 
nor  I  myself  knew  any  thing  of  the  road ;  and  we 


R  E  R  E.  333 

wandered  about  at  random,  only  seeking  to  keep  in 
the  general  direction  (about  northeast)  of  our  destina- 
tion, and  acting  on  the  axiom  that  "  every  road  must 
lead  somewhere."  But  even  the  most  self-evident 
propositions  are  not  always  true,  and  more  than  once 
we  climbed  to  the  summit  of  a  hill  only  to  find  our 
advance  stopped  by  an  impassable  gulley,  washed 
down  by  the  recent  rains. 

By  dint  of  blundering  and  guessing  we  reached  the 
little  town  of  R^re  during  the  afternoon.  I  had  a  let- 
ter to  deliver  to  a  lady  in  this  place,  who  kindly  in- 
vited us  to  remain  until  the  morrow,  and  treated  us 
with  that  frank  hospitality  which  in  Chili  is  always 
extended  to  the  stranger  who  comes  well  recom- 
mended. 

The  town  of  Here,  though  small,  is  one  of  the  pret- 
tiest to  be  met  in  the  country.  The  houses  are  gen- 
erally built  of  adobe,  and  roofed  with  tiles ;  and  we 
saw  none  of  those  unsightly  hovels  which  generally 
disfigure  the  outskirts.  The  church,  built  by  the 
Jesuits  in  their  palmy  days,  is  tasteful,  and  boasts  a 
fine  bell,  which  is  said  to  owe  its  mellow  tones  to  a 
large  proportion  of  silver  in  its  composition.  Near 
the  church  a  stately  palm  towers  high  in  air — a  beau- 
tifiil  and  striking  object. 

Our  route  the  next  day  still  lay  among  the  interm- 
inable hills,  but  after  riding  an  hour  or  more  we  came 
upon  the  main  road,  which  was  familiar,  for  it  was  the 
same  I  had  pursued  in  going  to  Yumbel. 

We  met  many  country  people  in  their  best  attire 
going  toward  R^re,  and  we  could  not  but  notice  the 
beauty  of  the  mountain  lasses  with  their  rosy  cheeks 


334  THE     A  K  A  U  C  A  N  I  A  N  S. 

and  clear  white  complexions,  such  as  are  rarely  met 
with  among  the  lower  classes  in  other  parts  of  Chili. 

It  was  not  until  our  attention  was  attracted  bv  the 
little  crosses  and  twigs  of  evergreen  that  each  one  bore 
that  we  remembered  that  the  day  was  Palm  Sunday. 
There  was  something  beautifully  impressive  in  the 
sight  of  these  gayly-dressed  crowds  moving  along  the 
highway  with  green  branches  in  their  hands,  to  com- 
memorate the  triumphal  entry  of  Our  Saviour  into 
Jerusalem. 

Having  reached  Concepcion,  one  of  my  first  cares 
after  getting  comfortably  settled  at  my  old  quarters 
under  the  ample  roof  of  our  ever-hospitable  coun- 
tryman, Don  Pablo ,  was  to  seek  out  the  Senor 

De  la  Yega,  whose  name  I  had  so  unceremoniously 
usurped  as  a  passport  to  the  good  graces  of  Manin. 

He  turned  out  to  be  a  little  smiling  Catalonian,  the 
owner  of  a  small  store,  and  well  to  do  in  the  world. 
He  was  much  amused  by  my  story,  laughing  heartily 
at  the  success  of  the  ruse,  and  assured  me  that  I 
should  be  perfectly  welcome  to  retain  the  name,  and 
that  he  would  be  most  happy  to  acknowledge  me  as 
his  son. 

He  consented  to  receive  whatever  presents  the 
lordly  Maiiin  might  see  fit  to  send  in  return  for  fa- 
vors received,  and  to  give  a  favorable  account  of 
Namcu-Lauquen.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  before  this 
some  noble  animal — the  pride  of  the  pastures  of  Cha- 
cayco — has  been  sent  to  gladden  his  heart,  and  recon- 
cile him  to  the  departure  of  a  son  whose  existence 
even  he  had  never  suspected,  and  who  was  found 
only  to  be  again  lost. 


C  O  N  C  L  U  S  I  O  1>\  335 

Many  were  the  congratulations  received  from  those 
whom  my  protracted  absence  and  long  silence  had 
led  to  fear  that  some  accident  had  befallen  me  in  the 
prosecution  of  what  they  deemed  a  rash  adventure, 
and  many  were  the  polite  attentions  I  received  during 
my  stay  in  Concepcion.  Pleasure-parties  and  rides, 
excursions  to  Penco  and  Landa,  Bella  Vista  and  Col- 
len,  followed  each  other  so  uninterruptedly,  that  the 
days  glided  swiftly  away;  and  when  the  time  came 
for  departure,  it  was  with  regret  that  I  found  myself 
compelled  to  say  good-by  to  friends  from  whom  I  had 
received  so  much  kindness. 

There  are  few  places  associated  in  my  mind  with 
such  pleasing  recollections  as  Concepcion — none  to 
which  I  shall  always  revert  with  feelings  of  more  unal- 
loyed gratification.  But  even  had  I  been  willing  longer 
to  encroach  upon  an  unbounded  hospitality,  the  season 
forbade,  for  the  rainy  months  were  setting  in,  and  trav- 
eling either  by  land  or  sea  would  soon  be  difficult. 

Fortunately  I  was  able  to  procure  a  passage  in  a 
vessel  bound  to  Valparaiso,  at  which  port  I  intended 
to  embark  in  the  British  steamer  for  Panama. 

It  was  a  fine  day  when  we  set  sail,  and  as  we 
glided  down  the  noble  bay  of  Talcahuano,  the  famil- 
iar spots  along  the  shore  looked  more  beautiful  than 
ever;  but  fairly  out  upon  the  ocean,  it  was  with  a 
thrill  of  pleasure  that  I  saw  the  goodly  vessel  pointing 
to  the  north ;  for  at  last  I  found  myself  fairly  started 
for  my  native  country,  which  an  absence  of  four  years 
had  rendered  doubly  dear. 

THE     END. 


c 


BINDING  SZ:-T.  OCT  10196ft 


F        Smith,  Bdmond  Reuel 
3126       The  Araucanians 
S65 


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