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EDITH E. FARNSWORTH
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ton, October, 1917
BY WAY OF FOREWORD
ARIZONA was termed the " Wonderland of the South-
west " many years ago, by one who knew it as few
moderns ever get the opportunity to know it, viz. : by
tramp and saddle, hunting Apaches and other Indians
when they were on the warpath. One of the fascinat-
ing books on Arizona is On the Border with Crook,
written by Captain John G. Bourke, and it is where he
describes the good-byes of Crook, after he had prac-
tically subjugated the Apaches, in 1875, that he uses
the term.
" Crook bade farewell to the people for whom he had done so much,
and whom he always held so warmly in his heart; he looked for
the last time, it might be, upon the snowy peaks of the San Francisco,
and then headed westward, leaving 'behind him the Wonderland of
the Southwest, with its fathomless Canyons, its dizzy crags, its snow-
mantled Sierras, its vast deserts, its blooming oases — its vast array
of all the contradictions possible in topography."
Go to the National Museum in Washington, and I
venture the assertion you will find there more objects
of universal interest and wonder gained from Arizona,
than from any other country you can name. It is the
same at the Field Columbian Museum, in Chicago; the
Carnegie Museum, in Pittsburg; the Museum of Nat-
ural History, in New York; and Arizona has also made
a large and ineffaceable mark upon the great collections
in the British and German Museums of London and
Berlin.
vi By Way of Foreword
These collections, however, deal largely with Ari-
zona's past, or the wonderful families of Indians found
today within her borders. Yet her claim to being the
Wonderland of the United States is not limited by what
these museums possess. She plays upon a far wider
gamut of emotions than these few strings afford. Her
mines have been, and still are, the wonder of the world,
and her developments in modern irrigation are equally
wonder-provoking. In her changes of character during
the past half century Arizona is remarkable.
Fifty, forty, thirty, aye, twenty or less years ago,
Arizona was a name suggestive of hell-roaring mining
camps; fierce, vindictive, treacherous Apaches and other
Indians; "gun-men"; and all the other manifestations
of the " wild and woolly West." Tourists from the
East, and elsewhere, returned to their homes and spoke
of the wild license of Arizona — the gambling, the
saloons that, once opened, never closed day or night,
week-day or Sunday, holidays or feast-days from Jan-
uary ist to December 3ist. They told of the saloon-
signs they saw, such as the one in Williams which an-
nounced that " All Nations, except Carrie, are cordially
welcomed " ; of the dance halls, where shooting affrays
were far from uncommon, and gambling dens, where
faro, roulette, and all the games of chance were per-
petually running.
Such names as cowpuncher, horse-wrangler, mule-
skinner, bull-whacker, woolly-coddler, grub-line rider,
tin-horn gambler, were heard on every hand, and it was
a common sight to see a herd of cowboys ride wildly
into the main street of most of the towns, dash up to
the nearest saloon, proceed to drink up all the rot-gut
whisky, and other vile nose-paint and brain-destroying
liquors available, and then proceed to shoot up the town !
By Way of Foreword vii
Let any one attempt anything of this kind today —
what would happen? He, or they, would be under
arrest in ten minutes, and a sentence in the bastile would
be apt to curb their unrestrained and licentious freedom.
Arizona is a prohibition state; the open saloon is abol-
ished; Oatman, the latest booming mining-camp in the
United States, is a camp that literally has not known
the sale of liquor ; every " gun-man " that is known is
compelled to leave his " gun," or " shootin'-irons," with
the sheriff; and public gambling is under a cloud. Ari-
zona leads in sociological progress. Whatever may be
said against her first governor, George P. W. Hunt, there
can be no denying the interest of his experiments and ad-
ventures into the realm of prison-reform and the abolish-
ment of capital punishment.
Arizona is young and daring. She is not tied to
precedent, to convention, to other states' ways of doing
things. With the Hindu Tagore, she exclaims :
" Where roads are made I lose my way.
In the wide water, in the blue sky, there is no line of a track."
She is bent on making her own ways, and in her own
way. Her mistakes will be her own, and her triumphs
likewise.
I can foresee the possibility that those who have read
my previous book, California, Romantic and Beautiful,
may wonder that this book is as full of enthusiasm as
was that. Why not? The reason is not far to seek.
I know Arizona as well as I know California, indeed, I
have studied it much more. While California is my
home, I have visited and rambled over almost every part
of Arizona, returning nearly every year for the past
thirty years. No one can know Arizona and not have
his enthusiasm aroused. It is just as alluring as is
viii By Way of Foreword
California, but in different ways. Its climate is mar-
vellous and is wonderfully varied, yet very different in
some respects from that of California; its remarkable
topographical contrasts are as striking as those between
the deserts below sea-level and the mountain summits of
California; its history and Indian lore are far more fas-
cinating; its Indian life and ceremonies more astounding
and thrilling; its geology more striking and gripping
than anything of the kind in California ; and its Grand
Canyon and Petrified Forest, Canyon de Chelly, Tonto
Basin, Apache Trail over the mountains, are equally
awe-inspiring, soul-awakening and mind-staggering as
the Yosemite, Hetch Hetchy and Kings and Kern
River Canyons in California.
Indeed, I may as well confess here and now, as well
as later, that the whole of the Great West — not only the
Southwest, but the West — from Montana, Wyoming,
Colorado and Texas on the north, east and south to the
Pacific Ocean, taking in Idaho, Washington, Oregon,
Utah, Nevada, New Mexico and Arizona, as well as
California, are all countries of my love. They all
awaken my enthusiasm. Were I a poet I should sing
their praises continually and in as exuberant, unre-
strained, and spontaneous fashion as the mocking-bird
and English sky-lark sing their songs. To me they are
the land of hope and promise, of freedom and ex-
pansion for body, mind and soul, of great-hearted,
daring men and equally great-hearted, whole-souled
women, capable of fathering and mothering the new
race that is to save our Occidental civilization from
annihilation. For it does not take half an eye to see
that the conflict is already shaping, the real Armageddon ;
not a physical struggle for the possession of territory,
but the mental and spiritual battle, as to who shall domi-
By Way of Foreword
nate the world. Force — the force of guns and arma-
ments may rule for awhile, but there never was truer
word said than that of Christ when He declared : " The
meek shall inherit the earth." And by meek I take it
are meant those whose trust is not in physical force, but
in the dominating power of the Spirit. This power is
growing with great rapidity in the West. The bound-
less prairies incite to expansive thoughts; the deep
canyons to a more penetrating vision into oneself and
one's fellows; the deserts to a purification of one's de-
sires ; the soaring mountains to the higher uplift of one's
soul. I firmly believe, therefore, with the " Poet of the
Sierras," in that which he says in his prelude to " The
Ship in the Desert " :
" A wild, wide land of mysteries,
Of sea-salt lakes and dried up seas,
And lonely wells and pools ; a land
That seems so like dead Palestine,
Save that its wastes have no confine
Till push'd against the levell'd skies.
A land from out whose depths shall rise
The new-time prophets. Yea, the land
From out whose awful depths shall come
A lowly man, with dusty feet,
A man fresh from his Maker's hand,
A singer singing oversweet,
A charmer charming very wise ;
And then all men shall not be dumb.
Nay, not be dumb ; for he shall say,
' Take heed, for I preface the way
For weary feet.' Lo ! from this land
Of Jordan streams and dead sea sand,
The Christ shall come when next the race
Of man shall look upon His face."
In this book, too, as in my California, Romantic and
Beautiful, it will be observed that I have quoted a great
deal from the writings of those who have felt the in-
By Way of Foreword
spiration of Arizona to literary expression. Kinship is
not always of the blood. Many a man has had an
adopted son or daughter, who was far more his own
child than one who sprang from his own loins and boasted
his " blood." He is truest Arizonan who is most at one
with it. Helen Hunt Jackson was far more a Calif or-
nian when she wrote Ramona than any native son or
daughter California has yet given to the world of litera-
ture. So is it with Arizona. He who has absorbed,
grasped, realized its spirit, and given expression to it,
is, so far, a son of its spirit if not of its soil. And I
have quoted largely from such for two purposes:
One: to show how wonderfully Arizona has influenced
to graphic and powerful expression — in other words, to
the production of pure literature; and two: that the
reader may enjoy, in other words than my own, the de-
lights others have felt in gazing upon the scenes that
have so charmed, fascinated and allured me.
One of the strikingly remarkable things about Ari-
zona is that its power of inspiration never seems to grow
any less. It inspires, and continues to inspire, and the
latest to succumb are fired to expression as exuberant,
as buoyant, as enthusiastic, as if others had not felt
exactly the same ten, twenty, fifty or more years before.
In the year of our Lord 1913, or 1914, or thereabouts,
came Agnes C. Laut, Charles Frederick Saunders,
Theodore Roosevelt, even, and regardless of the fact
that Bourke, Lummis, Garland, Dorsey, Hough, Fewkes,
and a score of others, a score, more or less, of years
before, had described the Hopis and their Snake Dance,
the Grand Canyon, the Cliff Dwellings and other Ari-
zona attractions, gave to the world their exuberant ex-
pressions of delight, wonder and fascination as if they
were being seen and described for the first time.
By Way of Foreword xi
This is a wonderful quality. It is a marvel of life:
this quality of never losing its charm, never growing
old; this ability to inspire new affection and devotion in
each new generation, equal to that felt by those of the
past. To me it is an omen and a prophecy. It tells a
fact of today and also of tomorrow. It speaks of the
growing popularity of Arizona when it is better known.
The charming bride, who preserves her devoted admirers
long after she has a large family growing up around
her, adds to her circle the more she is known. So will
it be with Arizona. She has attracted, she is attracting,
she will continue to attract in increasing ratio. Here
lies the assurance for her growing prosperity, the en-
largement of her commerce, the increase of her popu-
lation, the widening of the sphere of her glorifiers in
literature and art. Thousands who today are toiling
and moiling in the cramped-up life of the cities would
speed, with joy unspeakable, to the great wide, free, open
life of God in the mountains, forests, plains, canyons,
valleys of Arizona if they but knew what they would
find there.
If they but knew!
They are going to know. The Fate Bells ring as soon
as their time is announced, and we who know, have
already seen the signal given that the bells of Arizona
shall ring. The melodious sounds have already begun,
but the chorus is not yet at its full. When it is, the
vibrating peals will cross the Continental Divide, strike
the highest summits of the Rockies, and echo and re-
echo over the prairies and plains, until they reach the
undulating slopes of the Adirondacks and Alleghanies,
over which they will descend to the Atlantic until the
whole land will rejoice in the wonders of Arizona, as it
has hitherto rejoiced in those of California.
xii By Way of Foreword
And the marvel of all this is that it will provoke no
jealousy, no irritation, no petty spirit of envy. Cali-
fornia will be glad of the triumph of her younger sister.
She will join in the song that will follow the pean of the
bells, and will rejoice at the homage paid to the new
bride of her blood. Thus the Spirit of the West, that
great, free, frank, open, stimulating, expressive, living,
God-given Spirit, will spread, and grow and bless man-
kind, and Arizona will become one of the potent aids in
spreading that which shall help redeem the world.
" But," says the practical reader, " you have enthused
only over the past, the scenery, the climate, the wonders
of Arizona. This is a practical age. Modern men and
women can't live on history, on climate, on relics, no
matter how interesting, how wonderful. We need op-
portunities for financial investment, for home building,
for the raising of families, for agriculture, for every-
day, ordinary, modern life. Has Arizona anything to
offer in those lines ? "
Little should I have accomplished my purpose had I
failed to show with equal enthusiasm and graphic power
that Arizona is a land of the Now-, and of the Future, as
well as of the Past. The Modern Arizona is a young
bride with beauty, grace, vigor and perfect health, mar-
ried to Progress, who is a fit partner for her, in his
culture, refinement and loving devotion. Trained in the
modern school of eugenics, they are already anticipat-
ing and preparing, nay, yearning for the children that
are to come to them, — villages, towns, cities, manu-
factories, laboratories, workshops, schools, colleges,
churches, and theatres, each and all endowed with the
graces, virtues and powers that ought to belong to chil-
dren of such parents.
The awakening of Arizona has actually taken place.
By Way of Foreword xiii
First-class hotels are already built — only a few, as yet,
but more are being planned, for the entertainment of the
widely-traveled and exacting tourist ; the " cities " are
no longer wild frontier towns of the Wolfville and Ari-
zona Night's Entertainment type; or the farms and
orchards the projects of dreamers. The fact that the
experts of irrigation and agriculture of the Federal Re-
clamation Service expended their highest energies and
most elaborate plans on two irrigation and cultivation
projects for Arizona, and that hundreds of men are now
successfully and profitably farming thousands of Ari-
zona acres, demonstrates beyond cavil that this is a more
than usually God-blessed region for the general farmer,
the fruit and vegetable grower. The finest cotton in
the world is produced here, with Indians, even, as farm-
ers and pickers. Dates as rich and luscious as any
from the Persian Gulf are being picked yearly. Oranges
and grape-fruit develop a sweetness and richness of
flavor, and ripen so early that they are marketed and
sold before I am able to enjoy an orange from my own
trees in highly-favored Pasadena.
In the cities women have their clubs, reading circles,
and activities in church, home, and society, as well or-
ganized as in any western city from Chicago to San
Francisco; there are all the advantages of education
from the kindergarten to the university, and with such
modern buildings, lavish and up-to-date equipment as
make some of the schools of Arizona not only the peers,
but the superiors, of some of the schools in New York
City. And I am familiar with both. The University
of Arizona is growing. It, and its allied educational in-
stitutions, are in the hands of exceptional and progres-
sive men. At the recent " inaugural "of the new presi-
dent, representatives whose names are world-famed
By Way of Foreword
came from all the leading universities of the country, and
from federal institutions, and he and his staff of profes-
sors did not suffer one whit in the searching and brilliant
comparison. The marvellous climatic conditions of
Arizona led one of the most far-seeing and prophet-
visioned botanists of the world to urge upon Andrew
Carnegie the establishment of a botanical laboratory
here, and the results are already proving such a widen-
ing, broadening and deepening of our botanical knowl-
edge as old-time scientists never dreamed of.
With but one exception — the ocean — Arizona has
everything that has rendered California so world-famed,
with the addition of many scenic, geologic, ethnologic
and archaeologic features that California does not pos-
sess. Her reach of climate is almost as varied as that
of California; from snow-clad peaks the year around
to scorching desert ; from humid forests to plateaus and
plains where the hygrometer registers the minimum of
moisture. In the summer her White Mountains are as
alluring, as fascinating, as enchanting, as delicious to the
senses, and far more romantic because of their Indians,
as their namesakes in New England. Here are trout-
streams, wild-turkey runs, deer and antelope ranges, and
bear resorts to delight the heart of* the hunter, while in
the quiet woods, by bubbling brooks, in wild-flower dells,
up meandering trails, the reflective, contemplative
Nature-lover finds strength for the body, repose and
serenity for the mind, and joy for the soul. Nor is the
White Mountains the only Arizona spot of elevated
delectation. Though many travelers may lift up their
eyebrows in question, there are more really delectable
mountains in Arizona than in all New England and New
York combined. The Sierra Anchas, the Mogollons —
pronounced locally Mo-go-yones — the San Franciscos,
By Way of Foreword xv
the Wallapais, the Estrellas, the San Tans and a dozen
others all have wooded slopes, well-watered canyons and
far-reaching pastures for the joy of man and beast.
For a comparatively new country Arizona is remark-
ably well provided with railways. The Santa Fe crosses
it from east to west in the north, and the Southern
Pacific on the south. Connecting these two transcon-
tinental lines is the Santa Fe, Prescott & Phcenix (an
integral part of the Santa Fe). On the south, coming
into the state near Douglas, on the border, is the El
Paso & Southwestern, which, with its eastern connec-
tions with the Rock Island, and its western connections
with the Southern Pacific, is practically another trans-
continental line. The Santa Fe also has another western
outlet in the branch from Wickenburg, via Parker, to
Cadiz, on the main line. It also has the line from
Williams to the Grand Canyon and several shorter
branches which reach various mining regions. The
Arizona and Eastern is a subsidiary of the Southern
Pacific and forms the connecting link between Maricopa
and Phoenix, and Bowie and Globe, while branches of
the main line connect Tucson with Nogales and this
with the whole west coast of Mexico, and Benson
with Nogales through the rich Santa Rita mining coun-
try.
In its automobile roads Arizona is both fortunate and
progressive: fortunate in that its native roads are re-
markable (in the main), owing to the gravelly nature of
much of the soil; progressive in that, considering the
comparatively small population its vast territory pos-
sesses, it should yet be expending millions upon the im-
provement of its roads, the building of bridges, the engi-
neering of fine highways over its mountains, and the
general improvement of the native roads where they are
xvi By Way of Foreword
not reconstructed. Except in very bad weather, there
are few roads in Arizona that will not average up with
those of the most populous and progressive of the states
of the Middlewest.
Arizona is a state of vast proportions. Its super-
ficial area is 113,956 square miles of which 113,840 is
land and one hundred and sixteen water. On the other
hand, while California has 158,297 square miles of land,
it has two thousand two hundred and five square miles
of water surface. Florida, with only 58,861 square
miles of land, has 3,805 square miles of water. Hence,
Arizona is regarded as an arid land. To the indifferent
and casual observer this is true, but the careful mind
sees many things that the indifferent one never notices.
Arizona is at a remarkably high level: that is, its level
above the sea is much above the average. While in the
Yuma quadrangle the levels vary from one hundred and
thirty-eight feet at Yuma to two hundred and fourteen
feet at Araby, they reach six thousand, nine hundred and
fifty-nine feet at Supai, a small telegraph station on the
Santa Fe Railway between Williams and Ash fork, and
seven thousand, five hundred and seventeen feet at Shi-
numo Camp, on the Kaibab plateau, and six thousand,
eight hundred and sixty-one feet at El Tovar Hotel at
the end of the Grand Canyon railway. Then, when it
comes to mountains Arizona, as I have already shown,
has many surprises in store. She has a good number of
peaks over 10,000 feet high, and these receive a large
share of rain-fall in the summer and snow in the winter,
which, if conserved, and not allowed to flow out and be-
come lost in the desert sands, would serve to irrigate
many hundreds of thousands of acres.
In the chapter " Glimpses of the Land " a few sug-
gestions of Arizona's rich variety of scenery are pre-
By Way of Foreword xvii
sented, but the variety is not more rich than the soil is
found to be in many localities, when irrigated.
Everybody that has traveled to California on the line
either of the Santa Fe or the Southern Pacific, will recall
that Arizona is the last country crossed ere the Golden
State is reached. On each railway, the Colorado River
is the boundary line, on the former at Topock, twelve
miles before reaching the town of Needles, California,
and on the latter at Yuma, Arizona. The boundaries
of the state are, on the east, New Mexico; the north,
Utah as far as the Grand Wash, where the Colorado
River makes its great bend and becomes the boundary
circling around to the northwest, west and south, thus
making the western boundary, dividing Arizona from
California. Its southern boundary is Mexico.
In concluding these introductory remarks I must not
fail to note that: This is not a book of hearsay, of
stories, of imaginings. I have personally seen every-
thing herein described, and in nearly every case, wrote
the descriptions on the spot. The scenic wonders; the
cliff dwellings and other prehistoric ruins; the Indians;
their ceremonials; their picturesque homes; the deserts;
the thrilling trails ; the automobile roads over mountains
and through richly cultivated lands, deserts and cactus-
clad wilds ; the irrigation systems of the U. S. Reclama-
tion Service; the wonderful agricultural and horticul-
tural developments; the date, orange, grape-fruit, peach,
apricot, and olive orchards taking the place of the cactus,
yucca, mesquite, ocotilla and creosote bush; the exten-
sion of railways and the building of state roads; the
growth of cities, modern, progressive and cultured — all
these I have seen with my own eyes.
So many good friends have helped me in the prepa-
ration of this book that it has growingly become to me
xviii By Way of Foreword
a proof of the devotion of many Arizonans to their state
and of specialists to their respective departments of
science. No one has been appealed to in vain. Presi-
dent Von KleinSmid, Dr. H. R. Forbes, Director of the
Experimental Stations, Professors Douglass, Willis,
Byron Cummings, Thornber, and Miss Estelle Lutrell
and her assistants at the Library of the Arizona State
University, Col. and Mrs. J. H. McClintock of Phoenix,
Mr. W. H. Robinson of Chandler, Professor Joseph
Grinnell, and Miss Wythe of the Museum of Vertebrate
Zoology of the University of California, Harry S.
Swarth of the Los Angeles Museum of History, Science
and Art, and Mrs. J. H. Wheeler of Tucson, have all
given special aid.
I have also received much help from Mrs. Margaret
Armstrong's Field Book of Western Wild Flowers, and
from the files of Arizona, a complete set of which were
placed at my disposal by C. S. Scott, the editor. Most
of the secretaries of the Chambers of Commerce
throughout the state, and Dr. George Otis Smith, Di-
rector of the U. S. Geological Survey ; Dr. F. W. Hodge,
Director of the Bureau of North American Ethnology;
Dr. Herbert E. Bolton, of the University of California,
without doubt the greatest living authority upon the
documentary history of the Southwest, have been kindly
helpful, and to them all I tender my sincerest and
heartiest thanks.
If my readers enjoy reading as much as I have en-
joyed writing this book, and if it bring a larger knowl-
edge to others as to what Arizona actually is, its object
will have been fully attained.
Pasadena, California.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER
PAGE
V
I
19
32
41
51
XXV
FOREWORD '.
GLIMPSES OF THE LAND
THE FASCINATIONS OF THE LAND ....
How FRAY MARCOS DISCOVERED ARIZONA . .
THE JESUITS AND FRANCISCANS IN ARIZONA .
THE CLIFF- AND CAVE-DWELLERS OF ARIZONA
THE INDIANS OF ARIZONA 65
THE DESTRUCTION OF SIKYATKI AND AWATOBI IN
THE PROVINCE OF TUSAYAN 92
THE GRAND CANYON 98
THE PETRIFIED FORESTS, SUNSET CRATER, LAVA
FIELDS AND METEORITE MOUNTAIN . . . .104
THE NATIONAL FORESTS OF ARIZONA . . . .121
THE WHITE MOUNTAINS OF ARIZONA . . . 133
THE ARIZONA WONDER CIRCUIT 144
THE BIRDS OF ARIZONA 151
THE FLORA OF ARIZONA 168
THE SYMPHONY OF THE MINERALS .... 190
STOCK RAISING IN ARIZONA 212
THE STATE UNIVERSITY 224
THE WOMEN'S CLUBS OF ARIZONA 238
THE LITERATURE AND ART OF ARIZONA . . . 246
THE COWBOY EPOCH 278
OLD — TUCSON — NEW 293
THE TUCSON FARMS 311
THE DESERT LABORATORY AT TUCSON .... 319
THROUGH APACHE-LAND OVER THE APACHE
TRAIL 329
PRESCOTT AND YAVAPAI COUNTY 346
Contents ^___
CHAPTER PAGE
XXVI WlCKENBURG — THE ClTY OF THE HASSAYAMPA 359
XXVII COCONINO COUNTY AND FLAGSTAFF .... 365
XXVIII WILLIAMS AND THE ROMANTIC CANYON OF THE
HAVASU ............ 379
XXIX COCHISE COUNTY 393
XXX DOUGLAS — THE SMELTER CITY OF THE GREAT
SOUTHWEST ;. . . . 403
XXXI BISBEE, THE COPPER MINING CITY OF THE SOUTH 410
XXXII TOMBSTONE 419
XXXIII PHCENIX AND THE SALT RIVER VALLEY . . . 427
XXXIV THE REALIZED MIRAGE — CHANDLER AND THE
SAN MARCOS 442
XXXV NOGALES AND SANTA CRUZ COUNTY .... 449
BIBLIOGRAPHY 467
INDEX 469
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
THE PRAYER AT DAWN ON THE MORNING OF THE
SNAKE DANCE, ARIZONA (In full color), (See page
82) Frontispiece
MAP OF ARIZONA i
INDIANS CARRYING DEADLY LIVING RATTLESNAKES BE-
TWEEN THEIR TEETH DURING THE HOPI SNAKE
DANCE, ARIZONA . , , , . . iq
THE SUN-KISSED MOUNTAINS OF ARIZONA (In full
color) . . . . . , . 27
PASTURING SHEEP IN THE SALT RIVER VALLEY, NEAR
PHOENIX, ARIZONA , ., . . 31
THE RUINS OF CASA GRANDE IN THE GILA RIVER
VALLEY, ARIZONA, PRIOR TO THEIR PRESERVATION BY
THE U. S. GOVERNMENT . . ... -39
THE INTERIOR OF MISSION SAN XAVIER DEL BAC, NEAR
TUCSON, ARIZONA ,48
BUBBLING SPRING BRANCH OF SAGIE CANYON, ON THE
NAVAHO RESERVATION, ARIZONA , 59
MONTEZUMA CASTLE, A PREHISTORIC CLIFF RUIN IN
THE VERDE VALLEY, ARIZONA ..... 63
CLIFF-DWELLINGS NEAR ROOSEVELT DAM, ARIZONA . 64
THE STORMING, BY THE APACHES, OF THE MISSION OF
TUMACACORI, BETWEEN NOGALES AND TUCSON, ARI-
ZONA (In full color) . ,-,-> . . . . 67
AN AGED HAVASUPAI INDIAN , . 68
NAVAHO BLANKET AND BELT WEAVERS, ARIZONA . . 78
PART OF THE COLLECTION OF APACHE BASKETS OWNED
BY MRS. CHARLES A. SHRADER, TUCSON, ARIZONA . 81
xxii List of Illustrations
PAGE
HOPI INDIAN WITH LOAD OF CORN FODDER . .95
THE GRAND CANYON OF ARIZONA (In full color) . .100
THE PETRIFIED BRIDGE IN THE PETRIFIED FOREST OF
ARIZONA . ... . . . . . 115
PINE FOREST AND MOUNTAIN ROAD, NEAR PRESCOTT,
ARIZONA . I21
IN THE COCONINO NATIONAL FOREST, ARIZONA . .127
A LAKE ON A FOREST RESERVE IN ARIZONA . . .137
ON THE BORDERLAND HIGHWAY, BETWEEN NOGALES AND
TUCSON, ARIZONA ...... 146
AN APACHE MAIDEN WATER-CARRIER AT PALOMAS,
ARIZONA , • J57
A TREE AND CANAL LINED STREET AT CHANDLER,
ARIZONA . . . . . . . 167
FLOWERS OF THE PRICKLY PEAR, ONE OF THE DESERT
CACTI OF ARIZONA (In full color) . . . 1 74
A TYPICAL MINING SCENE, YAVAPAI COUNTY, ARIZONA 194
SANTA CRUZ RIVER BRIDGE, NEAR NOGALES, ARIZONA . 204
CHOLLA, YUCCA, AND PRICKLY PEAR, FOUND GROWING
ON THE ARID LANDS OF ARIZONA . . . .216
A PORTION OF THE CAMPUS, UNIVERSITY OF ARIZONA,
TUCSON (In full color) • . . . . .224
WOMAN'S CLUB HOUSE, TUCSON, ARIZONA . . .238
WOMAN'S CLUB HOUSE, PHOENIX, ARIZONA . . .245
LOOKING UP SALT RIVER CANYON TOWARDS THE ROOSE-
VELT DAM . . '.-••*' . . . . .252
A PUEBLO INDIAN MEDICINE MAN SINGING THE
" CHANTS OF THE OLD " TO THE BEAT OF THE SACRED
TOMBE — A PUEBLO INDIAN POTTER . . .263
SAN FRANCISCO PEAKS AT SUNSET, FROM NEAR FLAG-
STAFF, ARIZONA (In full color) . . . .276
A HOME IN TUCSON, ARIZONA 293
THE ORNDORFF, THE OLDEST HOTEL IN TUCSON, ARI-
ZONA . . . -. . . . . . 299
SAN XAVIER DEL BAG MISSION, NEAR TUCSON, ARIZONA
(7n jull color) . 304
List of Illustrations xxiii
PAGS
THE TUCSON SANITARIUM, SANTA CATALINA MOUNTAINS
IN THE DISTANCE ...... 307
ELECTRIC PUMPING STATION, NEAR TUCSON, ARIZONA
(In full color) . . . . . . .313
A FIELD OF MILO MAIZE, ON THE TUCSON FARMS, ARI-
ZONA ......... 316
THE PHOTO-CHEMICAL HOUSE AT THE DESERT LABORA-
TORY, NEAR TUCSON, ARIZONA . . . .323
BRIDGE OVER THE SALT RIVER, TEMPE, ARIZONA . . 329
OVER THE APACHE TRAIL IN THE OLDEN DAYS (In jidl
color) 330
AT THE FOOT OF THE FlSH CREEK GRADE, ON THE
APACHE TRAIL ....... 332
SCENE OF THE " FIGHT OF THE APACHE CAVE " . . 345
" BUCKY " O'NEIL MONUMENT, IN THE PLAZA, PRES-
COTT, ARIZONA , . . . . . .356
VARIOUS INSCRIPTIONS AND PICTURE WRITINGS MADE BY
THE PREHISTORIC INDIANS OF ARIZONA . . . 360
LAKE MARY, NEAR FLAGSTAFF, ARIZONA . . .368
BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF NATURAL BRIDGE, VERDE VALLEY,
ARIZONA . . 373
MOONEY FALLS, IN HAVASU (CATARACT) CANYON . 382
COLEMAN LAKE, NEAR WILLIAMS, ARIZONA — CAMPING
UNDER THE PINES AT COLEMAN LAKE, NEAR WILLIAMS,
ARIZONA ........ 388
A GROUP OF HOMES, DOUGLAS, ARIZONA — HIGH
SCHOOL, DOUGLAS, ARIZONA . . . f . 403
RUINS OF " WOLFVTLLE," ARIZONA . . . .422
THE THREE TREATY ROCKS AT WEST ENTRANCE TO
COCHISE'S STRONGHOLD, ARIZONA — A PORTION OF
COCHISE'S STRONGHOLD, NEAR TOMBSTONE, ARIZONA 425
THE ROOSEVELT DAM AND RESERVOIR, ARIZONA (In jull
color) . . . . . . . .431
CAMEL BACK MOUNTAIN ...... 433
INGLESIDE CLUB HOUSE, NEAR PHOENIX, ARIZONA . 440
xxiv List of Illustrations
ONE of THE NEW TREE-LINED ROADS IN THE SALT
RIVER VALLEY . . . . . ••'. ". 442
THE PATIO AND PERGOLA, SAN MARCOS HOTEL, CHAN-
DLER, ARIZONA (In jull color) . . . . . . 445
ON THE SAN MARCOS GOLF LINKS, CHANDLER, ARIZONA 448
THE DIVIDING LINE BETWEEN MEXICO AND THE UNITED
STATES AT NOGALES ... . . . . .451
NOGALES, SHOWING THE STREET THAT DIVIDES THE
AMERICAN FROM: THE MEXICAN PORTION OF THE
CITY — GENERAL VIEW OF NOGALES, ARIZONA . . 460
ARIZONA,
THE WONDERLAND
CHAPTER I
GLIMPSES OF THE LAND
FEW countries in the world present so marvellous a
variety of scenic features as does Arizona, the Wonder*-
land. From this standpoint alone Arizona could well
claim to be a wonderland, and none who knew it would
have either the temerity or the mendacity to deny its
claim. Drop upon it where you will, it is wondrous,
marvellous, astounding, even thrilling. Let me just
name at random a few of the thrilling, the really awe-
inspiring, majestic, sublime scenes found within the
borders of this, the youngest of the American States, and
yet one of the oldest lands of the whole continent. Let
an imaginary aeroplane bring us over the desert, a few
miles after we have crossed the Colorado River from
California into Arizona. What a wonderland of wild
cactus growth, of solitude, of mystery, of silence it is!
Here grows the mystic smoke-tree — that many a
wanderer takes, in the fading light of evening, for the
ascending smoke from a camp-fire ; yonder is a mesquite,
that strange desert tree that gives shade, shelter, fire-
wood, flour, sugar and horse- feed to the desert aborigine;
Arizona, the Wonderland
near by is the chilopsis, the desert willow, one of the most
richly blossoming trees of the world ; it is shadow-bringer
during the heat of the afternoon to a great bisnaga,
or barrel cactus, the water-barrel of the hottest desert, the
bearer of exquisite blossoms, and the source of the de-
licious cactus candy that is now tickling the palates of
the epicures the world over, and yet, its outer covering
is of the fiercest spines, strong thorns that penetrate the
thickest leather. Miles and miles of such weary, cactus-
strewn, sandy, alkali solitude make this a desert wonder-
land.
Now, shut your eyes, and sleep for, say, two hours.
At a signal open them. This is no desert. You surely
have left Arizona while you slept. You know you are in
Maine, or Wisconsin, or Michigan, where great forests
abound, for, as far as the eye can see, even from this
cloud-swept eyrie of the stars, you perceive nothing but
trees. Sugar pines, yellow pines, firs, and the rest, by
the millions, and such magnificent trees as the Maine
woods never surpassed as producers of fine clear lumber.
Is it not awe-inspiring, wonderful? You are in Ari-
zona, however, on the northern side of the Grand Can-
yon, looking down on the forests of the Kaibab Plateau.
And there are a score or more of such extensive forests
as these in Arizona, and the Eastern lumberman, or
the university graduate who knows all about the barren-
ness and desolation of Arizona, and many others be-
sides, will be staggered when I tell them, in sober truth-
fulness, that Arizona has more standing, merchantable
timber, within its boundaries to-day, than any other State
in the Union.
Again, presto, change! Open your eyes and tell me
where you are. Between vast walls, that rise a quarter
of a mile or less apart, made of brilliant red sandstone,
Glimpses of the Land
the walls reaching up to the very stars. For it is night-
time, and the black shadows are enhanced by the patches
of moonlight that fall like great white blankets here and
there. A thousand, two thousand, feet high, the walls
surely must be. Wonderful? Awe-inspiring? Ma-
jestic? Certainly, all three words are graphically truth-
ful. Can this be the Grand Canyon? No! The Can-
yon of the Little Colorado River? The Canyon of the
Salt River? No!
Look and listen a while! Do you see that patch of
light yonder reflected upon the red walls below the over-
hanging cliff? And do you see the moving figures?
That is a Navaho camp-fire, and the moving bodies are
dancers. The song you hear is a death chant, sung to
aid the spirit on its long journey to the other world be-
yond. Ah ! and now that your eyes are becoming more
familiar with the weird scene, you pick up for yourself
a dwelling away-up in the face of the cliff itself?
How solemn? How almost creepy? Yet how wonder-
fully majestic and sublime. You are in the Canyon de
Chelly, the home of the ancient Cliff-Dwellers and also of
the present-day Navahos. To-morrow morning I will
take you to see their peach-orchards, and you shall eat
fine, juicy mutton chops from one of the sheep of their
vast herds.
Once more we flit on our magic sky-steed. Away and
away we go. We are now on the desert again, but it is
an entirely different desert from the one we saw before,
for here the giant Saguaro, the Cereus-giganteus, abound.
And the whole plain, barren, sterile, rocky and sandy
though it seems, is dotted everywhere with opuntias,
echinocactus, mamillaria and cereus, until one can count
them by the thousands. These giant trees stand like a
new race of sentinels, silent, impassive, but awfully im-
4 Arizona, the Wonderland
pressive, especially during the night time. How awful it
seems! The eye falls upon nothing but this illimitable
desert, with these gigantic figures gazing at you, some-
times with arms pointed in your direction like immense
semaphores, until the horizon line is reached, and that
is composed of a stupendous, rocky mountain range, ap-
parently without a tree or a green spot upon it, and just
now, at sunset, a perfect blaze of gorgeous and brilliant
coloring. And how hot it is! It seems a veritable
Sahara, for it is midsummer, and the heat rises from this
vast plateau as from a fiery furnace. Yes, I have kept
you here over night purposely that you might see the
desert in its varied aspects, of sunset, night, dawn and
midday. Forget the increasing heat awhile, and tell me
if you ever saw stars in a more black-velvety sky, or saw
them so large, vivid and intense. Was ever mountain
coloring more tender, soft, alluring than at dawn, or
more richly radiant than last night at sunset ? Here you
are where the air is as pure as that the angels breathe.
This is God's own laboratory for keeping the world sweet,
wholesome and healthful. The noisome stenches gen-
dered in the cities would poison the inhabitants had not
God in his beneficent wisdom created such atmosphere
purifiers as these deserts, and then established the wind
generators to force this pure air over the poisoned areas
and change the noxious products of man's occupancy to
the sweet, sun-purified, sun-vivified air of the desert.
But now, at noon, how hot it is ! Here is atmosphere in
the making. The fires are burning furiously. The heat
is intense. Cannot you stand it longer? Then close
your eyes again in sleep, and in one hour awaken.
Overcoats? wraps? furs? Certainly, we are well pro-
vided. But it is now not more than 1 130 p. M. and at 12
o'clock you were denouncing me for keeping you in the
Glimpses of the Land
unbearable heat of the desert. We are now on the snowy
crests of the Tunicha Range, on the Navaho reservation,
looking down upon another desert, where these Navahos
make their temporary camps. How chilly it is, yet how
pure, sweet, balsam-laden is the air. Yes, we are at an
elevation of approaching 10,000 feet, and the plateau be-
low is five to six thousand feet above sea level. Rich
forests surround us, composed of spruce, white pine, juni-
per, aspen, cottonwood and oak, while the Indians are
eagerly gathering sack after sack, load after load, of de-
licious pine-nuts from the pinion trees.
Now let us take another experience. Let us hover over
the bad lands of the Painted Desert. John C. Van Dyke
used my photograph of this region as a frontispiece to
his marvellously eloquent prose-poem The Desert.
What a weird, colorful, mysterious, hideous, awesome
land it is. Let me give you a better and fuller view, tak-
ing in a wider expanse. Do you see now why the poetic
Spaniards named this El Desierto Pintado — the Painted
Desert? Imagine this a vast pallet-board, and that a
superhuman artist with mighty arm has just squeezed out
the color from his mammoth tubes. Here is a patch, ten,
twenty, fifty miles in diameter of white; close by is an
area equally large of black, and dotted, as artists are
wont to dot their painting boards; here and there and
everywhere, are patches of red, green, blue, yellow, mad-
der, lake, orange, green, violet, pink and every color
known to man, and many that he has not yet utilized, and
all in vast quantity. It is the experimental time. How
shall he paint a sunset? Color a mountain, glorify the
earth at dawn? It is as if this was the place where divine
thoughts were tested for man's benefit, and then the
pallet-board was left for man to see, to wonder at and
revere. Such, with profoundest reverence, are the feel-
6 Arizona, the Wonderland
ings evoked in the presence of this most marvellous of
colorful regions.
Again we sweep through the exquisite Arizona air.
We are now above a vast lake, surrounded by majestic,
and, occasionally, snow-clad mountain peaks. A lake in
Arizona? Yes, and one of vast extent. It is the arti-
ficial lake made by the crowning achievement of the
United States Reclamation Service, in the construc-
tion of the Roosevelt Dam. This is the accumulated
water of the Salt and Tonto rivers, with a watershed of
6260 square miles. There are few artificial lakes in the
world as large as this, for it is over four miles wide, and
twenty-five miles long, with ten times the capacity of the
great Croton Reservoir, which supplies the city of New
York with water. We have barely time now to look at
the massive stonework of the dam, as we hurry down the
course of the river to where the Verde River adds its
stream to that of the Salt and Tonto and then unitedly
flow on to irrigate the hundreds of acres of the Salt
River Valley.
Are you not surprised and inspired again? For here
is verdure, here are fields knee deep in alfalfa, where fat
cattle, horses, sheep and hogs are contentedly grazing;
yonder are fig, almond, prune, apricot, peach, avocada,
and orange orchards; aye, and delight of delights, scores,
hundreds, thousands of stately date-palms, whose fan-
like leaves sway to and fro in stately ryhthm in the
afternoon breeze. This is the land, the exact counterpart
of that described by the biblical narrators as one " flowing
with milk and honey." It is bursting with fatness, swol-
len with richness, and begging man to come and avail
himself of its manifold blessings. Desert no longer, this
valley is quite tamed. Its fierce heat is tempered ; shade
trees by the millions render it grateful to the senses ; the
Glimpses of the Land
cool breezes from the near-by snowy peaks linger in and
around the trees and thus bring delicious content to the
sons and daughters of man who dwell here. Even the
cactus is tamed, for it has lost its fierce prickles as a
token to Luther Burbank's genius, and is here fed to the
cattle who eat it as one of the luxuries a bounteous
providence bestows upon them in this highly-favored
land.
Is it anything to be wondered at, that in such a set-
ting, the capital city of Arizona is a proud queen, regnant
by virtue of her grace, her beauty, her opulence and her
riches? Her sons and daughters are devoted to her.
They delight to lavish their gifts upon her, and here,
marvel of marvels, wonder of wonders, in the heart of a
region once deserted by a prehistoric people of many thou-
sands, because of its growing aridity and heat, has sprung
up, in these modern days, one of the richest, most fertile,
exquisitely embowered, well-shaded, extra-well-watered
cities of the world. For Phoenix is not merely well sup-
plied with water ; she is extravagantly supplied, since she
joined forces with Uncle Sam's practical scientists, who,
guided years ago by that greatest of America's practical
geniuses, Major John Wesley Powell, arrested the melted
snow-waters of the peaks of Central Arizona, and stored
them for man's use.
But we have scarcely begun to glimpse the land of
our interest. On our magic ship let us move again,
and this time we will navigate slowly over a region
dotted over with mountain ranges, all with sug-
gestively romantic names, such as Chiricahua, Pinaleno,
Dos Cabezas, Pedregosa, Perilla, Galiuro, Winchester,
Dragoon and Mule. This is in Cochise County, and in
it is to be found one of the most remarkable and natural
Indian strongholds in the country. While not so vast
8 Arizona, the Wonderland
nor imposing as Canyon de Chelly it was better adapted
to its purpose, for the Apache Indian chief, Cochise, from
whom the county was named, found it impregnable.
To this day it is known as Cochise 's Stronghold. Wild,
rough, tumbled, rugged it seems as if Nature must have
made this clump of mountains when in a petulant and
fantastic mood. There is nothing shapely or comely
about them, for they have no known shape and the
masses are so bewilderingly thrown together that they
form in mountain structure what printers call pi.
Ledges, canyons, towers, parts of precipices, bluffs, amphi-
theatres, walls, domes, smashed, crushed, twisted, broken,
up-heaved, up-tossed, down-thrust, are all found in wild
confusion. Nothing is where it ought to be, or where it
might be expected to be. When one. looks for a dome
he finds a blind canyon terminating in a precipitous wall
— up or down. WThen he anticipates a blind canyon he
climbs to the summit of a dome. The crafty and keen-
minded Indian chief found here a place where none
could surprise him, none outwit him, none outgeneral
him. There were outlooks in every direction, and nat-
ural fortresses defending every approach. Well sup-
plied with food and water he could have stood off the
armies of the world, save for modern aerial attacks.
Here he gathered his warriors; here trained the young
Geronimo in those tactics that afterwards cost Arizona
and the United States so many precious lives and mil-
lions of dollars in destroyed crops and homes and ex-
pended treasure.
Yet to-day the ranches of white men and women nestle
contentedly and peacefully where Cochise and his
moccasin- footed bands used so stealthily to tread, and
playing children, nursing mothers and prattling babes
make their sweet sounds where once the hideous yells of
Glimpses of the Land 9
painted and fierce warriors arose on the heat-vibrating
air.
Then, strange to say, not far away, in the heart of what
is truly a wildly desert land, now and again, one may see
a great inland sea, a miniature Salton Sea, both in ap-
pearance, environment and apparent incongruity. The
upper end of the Sulphur Spring Valley was once a lake,
and it is now known to scientists as Lake Cochise.
Here, when the unusually heavy rains come, that every
ten or eleven years fall upon the arid parts of Arizona, a
portion of the old lake re-appears, and one rides across it
on the cars of the Southern Pacific Company bewildered
and wondering at the phenomenon.
It is now found that the whole of this Valley, for a dis-
tance of about ninety miles long and twenty broad, cover-
ing fully one thousand eight hundred square miles, is un-
derlaid with good, pure water, at varying distances of
from fifteen to less than one hundred feet, hence again is
the name " Arid Arizona " to be flouted and decried.
Now let us dash down to the extreme southeastern
corner of the State, and lo! what activities are here.
Rugged hilly slopes covered with gigantic buildings,
erected in steps, and topped by towering steel smoke-
stacks that are peculiarly effective contrasted against the
soft blue of the clear winter sky. On every hand are the
houses and shacks of the miners, with better buildings for
the stores and offices. Engines are puffing out their black
smoke, as they round impossible-looking curves, on what
appear to be recklessly-dangerous shelves on the mountain
sides, hauling ore, fuel, fluxes, or material of one kind or
another. It seems that out of the most inhospitable-ap-
pearing places of these wild and rugged mountains the
most profitable ores are extracted, and the vast crushing
mills, the chemical and other extractors, the smelters, are
10 Arizona, the Wonderland
at work day and night, every day in the year, taking from
the useless ore that which man needs for coin, for the
arts, the sciences, and the manufactures, of gold, silver,
copper and other metals.
Once again on our magic ship we will sail to the north
to a land named by the Spaniards in the seventeenth cen-
tury the " Province of Tusayan." We, to-day, know it
under the name of the Hopi Indian Reservation. But it
is one of the wonderlands of the ages. Europe, Asia,
Africa, Australasia have nothing like it; nor indeed has
the eastern part of the United States. It is as unique a
land as was Lilliput to Gulliver. Imagine a misshapen
hand, without little finger or thumb. The wrist and arm
spread out over a vast area, which we might call a rocky
plateau. From the hand three huge, sprawling fingers
are thrust out into the Painted Desert. Each finger is a
mesa, or table-land of solid rock, from five hundred to
eight hundred feet high, and ten miles away from its ad-
joining finger. Here are natural defenses galore ; places
where a fearful people might build on precipitous heights,
reached only by precarious trails, and where a handful
of savages could keep an army of millions at bay, pro-
vided that they were equipped with no other than the
weapons of savagery. On each of these three fingers
villages are built, three on the easternmost, three on the
central and one on the western. Here, later, I will take
you and show you one of the strangest, weirdest, most
thrilling, — perhaps to you most disgusting — yet, withal,
the most wonderful religious ceremony known to man,
where, as an act of worship, these reverent, serious, de-
vout Indians carry deadly living rattlesnakes between
their teeth in performance of one of their ancient and im-
portant rites.
Or, did I dare to show it, I might take you to another
Glimpses of the Land 11
even more remarkable ceremony, though not so thrilling
and awe-inspiring, where phallicism is the subject of
reverent and considerate worship, by a people as simple-
hearted in this respect as the beasts of the field.
And before we leave this region let me ask you to look
upon the corn-fields of this interesting people. Small
and meager patches, wrested with infinite patience and in-
credible labor from the thirsty face of the Desert, who
shall say that people capable of such endeavors — which
are generally crowned with success — are either lazy or
unobserving ?
Once more let us wing our flight. Are you a hunter ?
Then I will take you where antelope, deer, pine-hens and
bear abound. We will shoot across the Grand Canyon,
and land upon a great detached plateau I well know over
there, where, if one were quick enough and expert with
the camera he might catch on his sensitive film a thou-
sand head of deer in one picture; where, a few miles
away, black bear and cinnamon are common enough to be
seen almost daily, and where one may have a half a
dozen deliciously flavored pine-hens for his table — no,
his campfire meal — daily.
Or, perhaps you prefer wild-turkey. Then let me whir
you over to the Flagstaff country, into the heart of the
San Francisco range, and there you shall get a turkey, if
you are an expert; but if you are only an ordinary
sportsman I can give you a better region still. Here,
south of Holbrook, and east of old Fort Apache, looked
down upon by one snowy crowned mountain — Ord Peak
— that has an elevation of 10,266 feet above the sea,
and another — Thomas Peak — that towers 11,496 feet
into the blue, in a well-watered, well-wooded, grassy, al-
most pastoral country, where the Little Colorado River
and its numberless small tributaries have their head —
12 Arizona, the Wonderland
where are wild turkeys galore. And such big, bouncing
bonny, bronze, beautiful birds. I have seen twenty,
thirty, and even more in a single flock, and if a man
merely knows enough to lift up his gun, and aim near
enough to hit a haystack, he will surely feast on turkey
as soon as he can cook his game.
And fish, too, are to be found in this same region, al-
most as fine and as easy to get as in the Lake Tahoe (Cali-
fornia) region. I am no fisherman, but when I get very
hungry for fish, and there is no one else to fish for me, I
will persuade myself to the task, and I have caught seven
in a morning before 7:30, varying in weight from half
a pound to four times that size.
Yes, indeed, no glimpse of Arizona would be complete
that ignored its fine hunting. Nor must I forget that
wonderful region, so graphically described by Dr. Horna-
day, of the Bronx Park, New York, a sportsman of the
highest type, because he incorporates science and human-
ity into his shooting.
But we are not yet through spying out the land. One
more hour's whir of our fans and we fly through the air
into the depths of the Tonto Basin, into the Red Rock
Country, over Hell Canyon, and the wildest, tumbledest,
most upheaved rock country the eye of man ever gazed
upon. It is the upper and lower Verde River regions,
reached from Jerome, on the line of the Santa Fe, Pres-
cott & Phoenix Railway, or from Flagstaff, on the main
line of the transcontinental Santa Fe. Canyons galore
seam and slash the sides of the mountain ranges. Tower-
ing up, all around, are the Sierra Ancha, the Black Hills,
the Mogollon range — a great mountain chain upended —
and the Mazatzal, a weird scene of grandeur and rugged
beauty. It is cut up into ravines, gorges, arroyos and
small stream beds and is one of the roughest places on the
Glimpses of the Land 13
face of the earth. Yet, strange to say, here and there
are hidden nooks where are the finest camping-out sites
ever enjoyed by man; limpid streams of rippling water,
arched over and fully shaded by cottonwoods, sycamores,
aspens, junipers, ash and walnut. Here was located old
Camp Verde, and not far away are the wonderful Monte-
zuma Castle, and equally wonderful, but far more awe-
inspiring Well, of the same name, and throughout all
these canyons and on all these mesas are the cliff and cave
dwellings of a race who long ago abandoned them,
either because of inhospitable climatic changes, or be-
cause of fierce and warlike neighbors, who coveted their
few paltry possessions even to the point of being willing
to commit murder to gain them.
Yet Arizona possesses greater wonders even than these.
Let us up, up, into the sky once more and aim for Havasu
Canyon, that wondrous home of. the People of the Blue
Water, the Havasupais, or, as Lieutenant F. H. Gushing
called them — because of the wonderful exuberance of
the growth of the willows along the banks of their
canyon stream — " The Nation of the Willows." One
can reach this most marvellous of all marvellous homes
that mankind has found, by descending steep and precipi-
tous trails, until he is fully 5000 feet below the surround-
ing plateaus. Here is a canyon, where the direct rays of
the sun seldom penetrate before ten o'clock in the morn-
ing, and bid their adieus before two in the afternoon.
Yet a people of forty or fifty families has lived here from
time immemorial, with a village a mile or two long in the
very heart of this deep canyon, where they grow peaches
and melons, corn and beans, figs and onions in soil as rich
as any land famed in song or story. And wait ! Before
I can let you leave this land of wild enchantment I want
to show you two, three, five of the most exquisite,
14 Arizona, the Wonderland
dainty and beautiful waterfalls of the known world;
waterfalls that led those who first saw them to designate
this Cataract Canyon, a name by which it is still known
upon some maps.
As we soar again and wend our way southward let us
pause long enough to see three regions that the pens of
geological savants have made world-famous. The first
of these that we pass over is Meteorite Mountain, a vast
crater-like appearing spot, where, in the prehistoric past,
an immense meteor fell and burst, scattering its valuable
material over a large area. A little farther to the east
is Sunset Crater and the great Lava Fields. The former
is a perfect wonder, in the fact that no matter what the
hour at which you see it, what the weather, cloudy or
fair, it always possesses a peach-blow, sunset-glow ap-
pearance from which it gets its name. All around and
about, for miles and miles, are indications of one of the
fearful lava-flows of past ages. Great beds of black
cauliflower-shaped masses, but of gigantic size and dia-
bolic appearance, meet the eye of any one daring enough
to risk losing himself, and having his boots cut to pieces
in this wildest of all wild "hell-holes" of the earth's
surface. And, yet, still farther east, is one of the regions
of enchantment and delight, in the Petrified Forest,
where trees were long ago washed down, denuded of
their branches, covered with water and sediment
and minerals which had been decomposed, saturated the
water and then silently but surely elbowed the wood fibre
out into the cold, cold world and took its place in the
form of richly colored silicas and jaspers and onyxes that
dazzle the eye and bewilder the mind. These are regions
we could not afford to miss, even though we are on our
way to Tucson, once the ancient capital and important
city of the whole of this western desert land. It is
Glimpses of the Land 15
important now, but in an entirely different way. It has
become a great and growing, prosperous, active, modern
business city. Later we shall visit it in detail. At this
time all our attention is engaged in the fertile fields which
surround it.
And yet the reasonable list of glimpses, even, is far
from complete. There are two great trans-continental
railways that cross Arizona — the Southern Pacific enter-
ing it on the east from Texas, a little above the 32nd
parallel, at near San Simon, and wending its winding way
across the southern portion of the State, making its exit
across the Colorado River into California, at Yuma, just
below the 33rd parallel; and the Santa Fe which leaves
New Mexico near Manuelito, about midway between the
35th and 36th parallels, and winds in similar fashion to
the Southern Pacific until it, too, crosses the Colorado
River at the Needles Mountains, near the siding of
Topock, just about two degrees higher up — northward
— than the crossing of the Southern Pacific. Both rail-
ways have branches, the former, the Arizona and Eastern
which leaves the main line at Cochise, and runs south-
ward to connect at Douglas with the El Paso South-
western R. R. which swings along the Mexican border
as far as Naco, and then goes northward and connects
with the main line at Benson. Another line, the Tucson
and Nogales, leaves Tucson and follows the course of the
Santa Cruz River, passing on the west the historic old
mission of San Xavier del Bac, the land of Pimas and
Papagoes, and reaching, before it becomes the Southern
Pacific of Mexico, the old presidio of Tubac, with its
memories of Padres Font and Garces, and the doughty
Captain Juan Bautista de Anza. It also gives the
traveler a glimpse of the long- forgotten Franciscan Mis-
sion of San Jose de Tumacacori, which, on my visit a
16 Arizona, the Wonderland
few years ago, was being used as a stable by an Apache
Indian.
At Red Rock a short spur goes south to the mining
camp of Silverbell, and at Maricopa the Arizona Eastern
connects with Phoenix. This Arizona Eastern line, by
the way, has been expanding, until now it practically ex-
tends a large part of the distance across the State. It
goes east and west from Phoenix, in the latter direction
as far as Hassayampa, with expectations of ultimately
crossing into California and tapping valuable territory
north of Yuma and the Imperial Valley ; while eastward
it reaches down to the Gila River at Florence, and follows
the windings and meanderings of this typical western
stream. The intention is to continue it as far as San
Carlos, where one branch will go north-east to the min-
ing-camp of Globe, while the other will extend, by way of
Solomonsville, to the main line of the " Sunset Route " of
the Southern Pacific, at Bowie.
The branches of the Santa Fe are spurs which leave
the main line, one at Flagstaff, the other at Challender, to
tap the rich timber country north and south. At Wil-
liams the Grand Canyon railway leaves for its sixty-three
mile run over the Painted Desert to the south rim of the
Canyon at El Tovar Hotel, which overlooks the Bright
Angel Trail. Again at Kingman another branch strikes
almost due north to the profitable mining camps of Cer-
bat, Mineral, and Chloride. From Ash-fork, which is
between Williams and Kingman on the main line, the
only railway that traverses Arizona from north to
south connects the Santa Fe with Phoenix. This is the
Santa Fe, Prescott and Phoenix which traverses a most
picturesque country, uniting at Jerome Junction with
Ex-Senator W. A. Clark's railway that winds and twists
like an iron sea-serpent until it reaches the wonderful
Glimpses of the Land 17
copper-mines that are the source of the greater portion
of Mr. Clark's wealth, and that made possible the build-
ing of the San Pedro, Los Angeles, and Salt Lake Rail-
way.
Thus we have scurried to and fro in imaginary fashion,
yet seeing real sights, obtaining glimpses of Arizona.
Only a few — sort of samples, as it were — for time
and space would fail me were I to begin to do the sub-
ject reasonable justice. Other sections are left out — not
ignored — simply because a limit is placed upon my
space. Yet in every glimpse we have had it has been
impossible for us to ignore the marvellously clear quality
of the atmosphere through which we have gazed. Eurip-
ides speaks of the " pellucid atmosphere " of Greece,
through which he saw the Athenians march. Greece has
not one single iota of advantage over Arizona in the
perfect clarity of her sky. There are few manufactories
to pollute the air with vile outpourings of smoke; the
country is elevated throughout, and this, in itself, con-
tributes to a freedom from miasma, fog, and mist ; it has
mountains, deserts and canyons, in close proximity, which
make a constant interchange of air necessary, and at
the same time clean, purify and filter it as it moves.
Hence its clarity, its pureness, its dryness and its perfect
healthfulness. One may breathe it day and night with
fearlessness ; nay, indeed, with the very opposite of fear.
Confidence and satisfaction come to one whose lungs are
daily and nightly filled with such air as this. It carries
its own expansive qualities with it; even the asthmatic,
the bronchial sufferer, the tubercular love to take it in
deeply, to expand the whole breathing apparatus and feel
life, health, vim and vigor flowing in with it.
And the sunshine, too, of Arizona is equal to the at-
mosphere. It is direct, positive, unadulterated. The
18 Arizona, the Wonderland
clarity of the air allows it to reach man and the earth
just as it was divinely intended it should, and the result
is it brings healing, strength and power on its wings.
Pure air, pure atmosphere, pure and unadulterated, unre-
strained sunshine bless every inhabitant, making the
strong stronger, and bringing new hope, new brightness,
new life to the weak and ailing.
What wonder then that with every glimpse of this re-
markable and marvellous land every beholder grows more
entranced, more enthralled, and, as it grows in those
things that go to make up our modern civilized life, that
it will attract to its environs more and more of those who
will become its enthusiastic, healthful, happy and pros-
perous citizens.
CHAPTER II
THE FASCINATIONS OF THE LAND
No book on Arizona can be regarded as complete that
fails to attempt, at least, an explanation of the fascina-
tions it exerts over so many and such diverse people. To
do this satisfactorily for others may be impossible, but
I can set down wherein Arizona has been a never- fail-
ing joy, delight, allurement and source of fascination
to me. Years ago, in the introduction to my Indians
of the Painted Desert Region, and earlier still, in In
and Around the Grand Canyon, I sought to present
some of these allurements and fascinations. I wrote of
the mystery and glamour of the Cliff-Dwellings. In
those days we knew far less of them than we do now.
They had the charm of stimulating the unbridled imagina-
tion. Who were the cliff-dwellers? Whence had they
come ? Whither had they gone ? Many a time imagina-
tion has run riot when I have sat perched high on a cliff-
shelf, reached with great difficulty, and, perhaps, at the
peril of my life, as I have thought of the primitive and
long-dead people. Who built these inaccessible eyries?
Of course — so I cogitated — there could have been no
other reason for the building of homes in such aloof and
impossible sites than that of pursuit by cruel, vindictive,
relentless and persistent foes, determined to hurry them
out of existence. The cat watching for the mouse; the
panther stealthily following its prey; the weasel falling
upon quarry asleep ; the spider weaving its web and con-
fidently awaiting the entanglement of its victim, were
19
20 Arizona, the Wonderland
all types and symbols suggestive of the pursuers of the
harmless, helpless, doomed cliff-dwellers. Then the final
scenes of carnage, blood and wanton destruction, when
these devoted people were totally destroyed. I pictured
the night assaults, the awakened men and terrified women
and children, the rush to the ladders, the firing of bows
and arrows, the wielding of rude clubs and battle-axes, the
casting of obsidian-tipped lances, while women beat the
drums and children wailed and yelled in their terror, or
shrieked in their pain when wounded.
Oh, I saw pictures that, could they be reproduced by
the movies, would attract all the horror-loving crowds,
and, sometimes even, I wept over the terrible fate of ex-
tinction that befell the unhappy cliff-dwellers. Nor was
I so foolish in my mental exercises! I had good au-
thority for a basis, anyhow. I find, to-day, as I read the
learned Baron Nordenskiold's Cliff Dwellers of the Mesa
Verde, published in Stockholm, that he held the same
kind of ideas as I did, also Holmes, Jackson, Powell
and most of the early explorers of our Southwest.
Coming down to historic times, I found the early his-
tory of Arizona full of allurement
When the magic name Arizona was sounded in my
ears I could see Cabeza de Vaca plodding his weary way
across the continent, detained here and there by either
hostile, or too friendly Indians. Even to-day, old Fray
Marcos de Niza comes before me, making his reconnais-
sance of the land, preceded by the amorous negro, Ste-
phen, who lost his life at Zuni, just over the line, in New
Mexico. I hear the blare of the trumpets as Coronado,
with his proud band of conquistadors and horde of
camp followers of Mexican and Indian blood, started
out for the conquest of this land, where lust for gold
was leading them. I see Espejo and his party, and the
The Fascinations of the Land 21
sainted Kino and other Jesuits and Franciscans plodding
across deserts and canyons, fording streams and climb-
ing mountains to reach far away Hopiland, Tumacacori,
San Xavier, Guevavi and the province of Tusayan. It
brings up pictures of the devoted padre Garces, tramping
to visit Wallapais, Havasupais and Hopis, seeking to
lead them to desire the salvation he felt he was em-
powered to bring them. And many a time have I seen
in vividest imagination the Shamans, or medicine men, of
Hopis, Navahos, Apaches and other tribes, talking to-
gether of their hatred of Long Gowns — as they called
the friars — the men who were destroying their power and
influence, who were seducing the people away from the
" Ways of the Old," the " Path of Those Above," " The
Hopi Way," and in imagination that seemed as real as
facts I have heard them plotting to kill both priests
and complaisant followers of their own race. Once they
were wonderfully successful. No moving-picture was
ever more thrilling, exciting, and startling than the reality
of the destruction of Awatobi — one of the Hopi towns
— related in the traditions of the people, where medicine-
men from Walpi, Oraibi, Shungopavi and Mashongnavi
stealthily fell upon the Awatobians, as they worshipped
in their underground Kivas. Then, in swift succession,
I saw the transformation scenes — the ladders drawn up
from the Kivas; the worshippers below caught like rats
in a trap; the incriminating and denunciatory words of
the Shamans above, the fierce and bitter replies from be-
low; the gathering of piles of dry brush, the firing of
bundle after bundle, the flinging of the flaming masses
down in the Kiva, while watchers, with arrows held fast
to tightened bow-strings, stood ready to fire upon those
who tried to quench the flames; the clouds of dense
smoke; the cruel heat; the shrieks and yells of defiance,
22 Arizona, the Wonderland
the piteous wails of despair; the silence; the smoking
ruins. The silent march back of those who felt trium-
phant, yet knew they had slain their own kin-brothers ; the
silent weeping of the captured wives and daughters of
the slain Awatobians; the quiet whimpering of little
children cowed into silence by the terror they could not
understand.
Again the name conjures forth pictures of Mexican
settlers murdered by Apaches and Navahos, and later, the
earlier trappers of the intrepid Saxon as they ventured
into this hostile land. As stealthy in their movements as
Indians themselves, watchful, careful, studious of tracks
of birds, animals and men, they lived nearer to Nature
than any members of the so-called civilized races have
done before or since. Up and down water-courses, set-
ting their traps on Little Colorado, Colorado Grande, the
Zuni, Puerco, Gila, Salt, Tonto, and other rivers —
what a courageous band they were. Read Pattie's nar-
rative and get the thrill of that epoch in Arizona, and
the name will never sound in your ears again without ex-
citing thoughts of romance within you.
Then came the later epoch of prospector, and picture
after picture arises of these solitary enthusiasts, bent on
finding gold. The greater the dangers and difficulties,
the more sure the precious metal; and it is no fanciful
picturing to see these men, asleep in their lonely camps,
butchered as they slept by their wily Indian foes, never
knowing how they were translated from this life to
the next.
Then I saw Lieutenant Ives start with his quaint and
old-fashioned steamboat from San Francisco, come down
the coast, round the Peninsula of Lower California, and
then start northwards up the Gulf to enter the mouth of
the Colorado River. Here he gained Indian and white
The Fascinations of the Land 23
pilots as otherwise navigation would have been hazardous.
Slowly they work their way up the Colorado River
until they reach the Black Canyon, and further progress is
impossible.
Then, who is there that knows the Indians of Arizona
that does not find fascination and allurement in them?
Apaches, with their fierce and warlike natures, their re-
markable history (so like that of the Boers), whose
leaders Cochise, Mangas Colorado, and Geronimo, se-
cured world fame by their skill as generals, and whose
people now are models of working energy; the peaceful
Pimas, constructing their irrigating dams and making
farms out of forbidding deserts; the Hopituh-Shinumo
— the people of Peace — on their mesa heights, living
their Quaker-like lives, and dancing their weird snake-
dance; the semi-nomad Navahos, as fierce, once, as the
Apaches, but broken by the wily tactics of Kit Carson;
the Wallapais — the People of the Tall Pines — with
their wonderful Mattatiwiddati Canyon; the Havasupais,
in their even more wonderful and scenic Cataract Canyon
home, through which flows the Blue Water, whence their
name ; the Mohaves and Chimehuevis and Yumas, on the
Colorado River — what a theme is here for enlargement,
and how ethnologist, archaeologist, and world-traveler
find fascination in the contrasts they present, the prob-
lems they evoke.
Then, too, think of the fascinations and romance of its
Indian wars and campaigns. Read General Charles
King's books, and Captain Bourke's Campaigning with
Crook, Geronimo's Own Story, and the various news-
paper articles and magazine stories that have been brought
forth by this phase of Arizona's life. Many a night,
when I have thrown my blankets on the ground, unrolled
them, and weary and ti'red with the day's journey, have
24 Arizona, the Wonderland
stretched out upon them, I have seen pictures of events
said to have occurred right where I was camped ; a party
of emigrants, women, girls, children in the number,
wagons in a circle, horses inside for security, two grizzled
men marching up and down as sentries, the dying glare
of the campfire, the stealthy approaching of a band of
Apaches, the night attack, firing of guns, yells, screams,
the moans of the dying, the awful silence of the dead,
and the scenes worse than death that, alas, too often
accompanied those dread onslaughts. A hundred times,
in imagination, I have seen red faces suddenly peer at
me from behind boulders, trees, rock shelters, and have,
for the time being, been startled into half-dread lest I,
too, might be scalped and left for dead on the sandy floor
of the desert. Then, too, I have seen the band of troopers
start out from one of the United States army posts. I
have heard the anathemas pronounced upon the " red
devils," quietly and under the breath, yet, nevertheless,
powerful and deep, because of some dread discovery of
tortured companions, mutilated comrade or, worse still,
fearfully abused wife or daughter of unfortunate miner,
emigrant or settler. I have watched the soldiers as,
led by Apaches or Navaho scouts they neared the
Indian stronghold where, in fancied security, the hos-
tiles were celebrating their last successful raid. Then
the strategy of approach, the complete surrounding of the
band, the signal for attack, the surprise, the startling of
the unsuspecting Indians, the yells, shouts, screams, shots,
defiance and astonishing escapes of some of the most con-
spicuous and those whose capture was most desired.
Oh! the imagination plays some strange pranks upon
its possessor — or the one who possesses — out on these
arid Arizona deserts, or in the shelter of these wild
Arizona canyons, forbidding mountain recesses, or dense
The Fascinations of the Land 25
forests. Arizona produces mirages of the mind as
well as of the plains, and one sees many things that exist
only in the imagination, all of which adds to the allure-
ment and the mystery of the land.
Then, too, have you ever felt the lure of the desert?
Do you know what its glorious bursts of color mean at
sunrise and sunset, its peach-glows, its ravishing pinks
and saffrons, its opal glows and amethystine depths?
Have you felt the power of its profound solitudes, where
you seemed naked in soul and mind before Allah, the
Maker of Deserts. In Our American Wonderlands *
and The Wonders of the Colorado Desert 1 I have tried,
on two widely-apart occasions, to set down some of my
impressions of desert lures, but neither of them, or both
of them combined, do more than faintly hint at what I
have felt, and what others have said that they, too, expe-
rienced, while under the spell of the desert. Its wide ex-
panses alone have stupendous effect upon the human
mind and soul. They have a corresponding expansion
upon one who is responsive. The cool nights on the
desert, when the sky seems like a pure velvet pall studded
with scintillating diamonds, give one different sensations
of the night from any ever known before. And, of
course, one must sleep in God's great out-of-doors before
he can begin to understand its mysterious charm. I
would rather sleep on the floor of the desert, surrounded
by barren desolation, forgotten and unknown of most men
and women, than be presented with a palace in which I
should nightly be compelled to sleep in the most luxurious
bed known to modern civilization, if I had to accept there-
with the frivolities, inanities and utterly useless and time-
wasting devices of much of the society of the same civiliz-
1 Our American Wonderlands, A. C. McClurg & Co., Chicago;
The Wonders of the Colorado Desert, Little, Brown fc Co., Boston.
26 Arizona, the Wonderland
ation. I flee with dread from the latter to a serene en-
joyment of the former.
Even the sand-storms, " whirling devils," mirages, liz-
ards, snakes, Gila monsters, alkali springs and piercing
lightnings are different from the unpleasantnesses, incon-
veniences, terrors and horrors of the cities. There are
no hideous Edgar Allan Poe-like mysteries or deviltries
hidden in the desert, lurking to steal upon you, or leap
startlingly, in the dark. There is an openness, a fair-
ness, a frankness about all desert things, good or evil,
which sets them off from that which you find elsewhere,
especially in a city.
Then, too, the desert arouses you to questioning. Are
we here looking upon a worn-out world, a tired, blase, use-
less, outcast, deserted, forgotten and abandoned land, or
a world in the building-up, trying-out, purifying, testing,
making? Somehow I always feel as if it were the lat-
ter. We are here at the start, we are watching the be-
ginnings, we are " in on the ground floor."
Of the scenic fascinations of the land I have written
much and often in other books, and in the chapter herein,
entitled Glimpses of the Land, as well as in other chap-
ters, I have set some of them forth in no uncertain terms.
Of course I shall be accused of " fine writing." I air
ways am, by men who have not seen what I am writing
about. How foolish for those who know not to criticize
the endeavors of those who do. How can one who
has never seen the wide expanse and bewildering color-
ing of the Painted Desert, justly criticize the descriptions
of one who for thirty years has fraternized with it,
reveled in its mysteries, and battled through its sterner
moods, who has been scorched by its fierce heat, parched
through its lack of water, dazzled by its vivid colors and
at other times more than dazzled, almost blinded, by its
The Fascinations of the Land 27
fierce lightnings, drenched to the skin and chilled through
to the marrow by its sudden cold rains; sweltered in its
sand-storms, and is yet fascinated by it ? Can a stranger
analyze the charms one feels even in the punishments a
land awards, while one is seeking to penetrate to the
heart of the allurements she exercises over him — and
there is no denying that some parts of Arizona can punish
with a fury and relentlessness she taught to Geronimo
and his warrior compatriots.
The Petrified Forest, Sunset Mountain, the Lava Beds,
the Extinct Craters, Walnut Canyon, the Red Rock Coun-
try, the Mogollon Buttes, the Grand Canyon, Canyon
Diablo, Meteorite Mountain, and a score of other scenic
wonders and marvels are Arizona's possessions. Her
" White Mountain " country alone would entitle her to be
called " Wonderland," for no one ever expects those to
believe to whom he tells of that land of charm and mys-
tery when he returns to recount what he has seen.
Then the rivers of Arizona! What mysterious fasci-
nations they exert over the mind — the sullen Colorado
flowing so relentlessly along in the depths of its dark and
somber canyon; at times lashing itself into a wild fury
of cascades, rapids, waterfalls, upshooting fountains,
treacherous whirlpools and destructive cross-currents!
Who that has seen it can ever forget its awe-inspiring and
yet thrilling enchantment? The Little Colorado, too.
In its rise it is one of the sweetest, purest and delightfully
environed of brooks, where deer and antelope come to
drink and bathe, and where the fishermen catch trout
that are the delight of the epicure, where wild-turkeys
and grouse abound and the track of the grizzly is as com-
mon as that of the wolf in the backwoods of Michigan.
Yet in its later flow that river so completely changes its
associations that it is the most perfect example in river-
28 Arizona, the Wonderland
life of the axiom that "Evil communications corrupt
good manners." On its passage to join the main Colo-
rado it absorbs mud and sand, filth and stench, until I
have seen it so dirty that a bucketful of its flood allowed
to stand over night was four-fifths mud to one-fifth
water.
On the other hand, Havasu Creek comes bubbling out
from the rocks in a canyon, thousands of feet deep, flows
along through the willows, making seven of the most
charming waterfalls of America ere it takes its final
rush through a chute in the solid granite, a pure-looking,
clean stream to be absolutely lost in the muddy, turbid
waters of the Colorado.
In the south the Santa Cruz adds its thrill to the lives of
the people. For years it will be tame and good. Then
~- it perhaps learned from the Apache — there is an out-
break and it runs wild. A few years ago I saw it in one
of these lawless outbreaks. It had changed local geog-
raphy. A fine steel bridge, constructed by the people of
Tucson to allow them to cross its waters, was left
stranded, high and dry, while the river laughed and
gurgled in its glee at the joke in a new channel it had
carved for itself out of some one's vegetable ranch or
fruit farm.
In the west, the Gila and Bill Williams Fork do the
same kind of " stunts " when they are so disposed, and he
who has once seen the Gila on the rampage, and the town
of Yuma trying to protect itself, as the town of Needles
has to do from the Colorado, will realize that here is an'
other of the " bucking bronco " rivers of the world — not
yet tamed, unused to the saddle and bridle and rather
dangerous to ride.
The Tonto and Salt Rivers, on the other hand, are
gentled. The Roosevelt and Granite Reef Dams have
The Fascinations of the Land 29
brought them into subjection, as the Laguna Dam has
given the quietus to the Colorado River hundreds of miles
after it leaves the Grand Canyon. Science and concrete,
dams and sluiceways, curb the wild ferocity of even these
self-willed and torrential floods, and the canals and lat-
erals that divide and distribute their waters in calm and
quiet would never dream, from the gentle lappings and
sweet sounds uttered by their flowing burden, of their
wild, mad, reckless career in the earlier days before the
Reclamation Service came to tame them for the benefit
of man.
Then what a fascination there is in the hidden mineral
wealth of Arizona! How absurd it is for one who
has never felt the fever and excitement of prospecting
and mining to expect to know what those felt who
discovered the Copper Queen, the old Dominion, the
United Verde, the Santa Rita, or the recent Oatman mines.
Some men have made millions in the mines of Arizona,
and every prospector expects, some day, to be one of
those men. Day after day, month after month, weary
year after year, enduring thirst and flood, drought and
storm, fierce heat and penetrating cold, living in a soli-
tude that to many would be far worse than quick, sharp,
unexpected death, these men yield to the lure of unseen,
un found gold. They are bound, some day, to strike it
rich. While it is borrasca to-day, and has been for
months and years, it is sure to be bonanza to-morrow, or
next day, or the next. So they toil on, packing their
patient burros with the load of food supplies that grows
piteously less daily, and often equally piteously, patheti-
cally and distressingly larger in the increase of useless
rocks the poor prospector is gathering up to be sent to
the assayer, whose report will again knock down his pa-
tiently reared house of cards, with its relentless: " No
30 Arizona, the Wonderland
gold, no silver," or, " Slight traces only." I've eaten
with the prospector by his tiny campfire, in his moments
of high exhilaration and buoyant hopefulness when, to
him, his beans and bacon, flapjacks and syrup, with a tin
cup of Mormon tea, were a banquet fit for the gods;
and, again, I have foregathered with him when every
mouthful was the ashes of humiliation, wretchedness and
despair. Yet he quickly rebounds — either way. When
he's up, he's up, and when he's down, he's down, and it is
is very seldom he is in the condition of being neither up
nor down. Clark struck it rich at the United Verde —
why shouldn't he do the same ? Gage made his pile out
of Copper Queen — Who found it? Some poor devil of
a prospector like himself! "I'll get there, some day,
never fear ! " he exclaims. " Arizona mines all found ! "
you tell him. He laughs at you, and gleefully points to
the new camp of Oatman, where new millions have been
uncovered within the past few months. Is there not al-
lurement in all this — mystery, possibilities, hopes higher
than snow-clad mountain peaks?
Then, too, in the scientific and practical development
of Arizona's water resources for the reclamation of its
arid wastes — is there no fascination here ? I was talk-
ing recently to one of the best known irrigation engineers
of the United States Reclamation Service. His eyes lit
up, his face flushed, his words came fluent and eloquent,
his gestures became impressive and expressive as he
dilated upon the charm and delight of such work. I have
heard great generals dilate upon the pleasure they had in
planning and carrying out a campaign which resulted in
" glorious victories," but there was nothing like the pure
fascination experienced as in listening to this engineer
tell of his planning his campaign of " peace and national
uplift." Then, slowly but surely, to meet and overcome
The Fascinations of the Land 31
the obstacles in the way of such beneficent development;
to see the dam rising higher and higher, day by day, that
is to make a vast reservoir of vivifying water; to see that
water pouring into canals and laterals and then bubbling
and laughing as it flowed forth upon the thirsty land ; to
see that same land later, smiling and richly clad in vivid
pasturage, glorious and fruitful orchards, in the midst of
which stand homes of happy, peaceful, and contented
people! Oh, surely there is marvellous fascination in
watching the transformation scenes of an arid and desert
region into a cultivated and blossoming land of pros-
perity !
These, then, are a few of the fascinations of Arizona,
and yet I have not told of its wonderful flowers, its rich
collection of birds, its wealth of trees, its peculiar desert
life, its dead volcanoes, meteor mountains, lava flows,
snow-clad peaks, its ice-caves, its mountains and can-
yon trails. I have said nothing of the fascination many
men are now experiencing in their building up of the new
State; in experimenting in sociological and municipal
problems ; in seeking to change the aridity of some men's
natures into useful and fruitful fields of helpfulness and
blessing.
Oh! Arizona is a fascinating land, without a doubt,
and more and more American citizens and foreign
travelers will find it out as the years go by, to their infi-
nite pleasure, profit and delight.
HOW FRAY MARCOS DISCOVERED ARIZONA
THE first transcontinental traveler! Who was he?
What dauntless spirit inspired him to this marvellous
journey?
It is a record of sad misfortune, dire disaster, blasted
hopes, wretched bondage, constant fears, persistent en-
deavor, and final success — at least of the few who made
the great journey across the Continent from ocean to
ocean.
It was in the middle of June, 1527, that an expedition
sailed from San Lucar de Barrameda, in Spain, under
the command of Panfilo de Narvaez, bound for Florida,
and seeking the Fountain of Eternal Youth, and hosts
of other good things for the here and now. Spain was
aflame with the discoveries and achievements of Cortes,
Pizzaro and other adventurers, and the West was the
lodestar of every Spaniard's ambition. It was a proud
setting forth, this of Panfilo's, but a sadder ending few
expeditions ever had. For after landing on the desired
coast, he was pursued with ill fortune, — storms, tempests,
hurricanes, gales, were not more unkind to him than hos-
tile Indians, hunger and disease. Suffice it to say, that
in three years' time he and his expedition would have
dropped as completely out of sight as if his vessels had
been swallowed up by a tidal wave had it not been for
the fact that the treasurer of the expedition, Alvar
Nunez Cabeza de Vaca, with three companions, one of
32
How Fray Marcos Discovered Arizona 33
them a negro, named Stephen, were spared. How they
escaped and the others were lost is one of those queer
deals of Fate which as yet no one has learned to interpret.
For a while it seemed as if they were far worse off than
had they perished with their fellows. They were cap-
tured by Indians, and practically made slaves of, soon to
be raised to a pinnacle of veneration, and almost of wor-
ship because of Cabeza de Vaca's medical ability, dis-
covered in some simple remedy he happened to use. To
be treated as a slave is not much worse than to be treated
as a " big medicine man," when the latter implies a tender
watchfulness that gives a man, whose one hope in life is
to escape, no chance to do so.
As might be well understood, a man of Cabeza de
Vaca's knowledge, while it did not comprehend much
more of this great continent than that possessed by Colum-
bus before his death, did at least give him the assurance
that, somewhere, on the other side, he would most likely
find people of his own nation in the land they called New
Spain. With a hope born of despair he determined to
move westward, ever westward, trusting that the Fate
that had hitherto been so unkind would at least bring
him and his companions in touch with those of his own
kindred.
Year after year went by, yet he never wavered, never
faltered for long at a time. Separated now and again
from his companions, he yet managed to keep in touch
with them, and, at length, on one glad morning in April,
1536, nearly nine years after the triumphant sailing from
Spain, he ran upon Captain Diego de Alcaraz and twenty
Spanish soldiers, who were out on a slave-hunting foray,
near the banks of the Rio de Petatlan, in Sinaloa.
The scoundrel who was thus " ran into," surprised and
startled at first to meet with them, wanted de Vaca to be-
34 Arizona, the Wonderland
tray the friendly Indians who had accompanied him on
the latter part of his journey, that they might be captured
as slaves, and upon his refusal to have anything to do
with so iniquitous a scheme, the wanderers were treated
with great harshness and cruelty. But it was not long
before they were sent, under guard, to Melchior Diaz —
afterwards the brave Captain that came up the Colorado
River to Bill Williams Fork — who treated them with
consideration, and sent them on to the Viceroy, Antonio
de Mendoza.
While these men never entered New Mexico, of which
Arizona was then a part, it was this trip that led to the
discovery of New Mexico by the Spaniards, and thus be-
came the beginning of its history in connection with the
white race. Mendoza, anxious to make discoveries of
good colonizing territory, as well as of gold and other
valuables, was much struck with Cabeza de Vaca's story
of his wanderings. What he had seen did not amount to
so much as that which he had heard. If one small part
of this were true, then here, indeed, was a new land worth
a conquest.
At the same time Mendoza was beset with another
problem. He had a large number of malcontents, mis-
fits, cranks, "pestilential fellows," who, however, had
good Spanish connections whom it would not do to offend,
and he and the Spanish King were both anxious to get
rid of them. Here seemed to be the opportunity. Why
not send them to the discovery of this new land of which
such wonderful things were spoken, and let them colonize
and hold it after it was found ?
A leader was at hand in the person of Don Francisco
Vasquez de Coronado, but before the expedition started
the wise and thoughtful viceroy determined to know more
of the land. Accordingly, preliminary reconnaissances
How Fray Marcos Discovered Arizona 35
were planned. One was by two companions of de
Vaca's, Dorantes and a negro he owned, named Stephen,
but this was never carried out. The one that was suc-
cessful led to the land of Arizona being found and de-
scribed. Mendoza had discovered that none ingratiated
themselves so easily into the confidence of strange In-
dians as did the Franciscan and other monks of his
entourage. One was of known ability and integrity.
Why not send him ? No sooner said than done.
The negro Stephen was to accompany him as guide.
Another friar was also to go as companion and friend.
Fray Marcos de Nizza, a Savoyard, sometimes called a
Frenchman, was to be in charge and the Viceroy's instruc-
tions were carefully worded and very explicit. The ob-
jective point was a region named Cibola, where large
cities were said to exist and much gold and other precious
metals, etc., to be found in abundance.
Adolph F. Bandelier's account of the journey of Fray
Marcos is one of the historical classics of Arizona.1 It
should be read by every keen Arizonan, not only as a
remarkable contribution to the history of his own state,
but also as a fine example of the methods followed by
modern critical historians to secure absolutely reliable
information.
On the seventh day of March, 1539, Fray Marcos
left Culiacan, with his negro guide, his lay brother com-
panion, and a few Indians who had come with Cabeza
de Vaca. Of the earlier part of this journey I cannot
now speak, except that it can be traced with tolerable
certainty, and that before it had progressed far the lay
brother was stricken with severe illness and had to be
1 Contributions to the history of the South Western portion of the
United States, in papers of the Archaeological Institute of America,
Vol. V., Cambridge, 1890.
36 Arizona, the Wonderland
left behind. To facilitate matters, Fray Marcos decided
to send the negro on ahead, to pave the way, as it were,
and to send back information of the route to be
traveled and the aboriginal people to be met. Thus it
occurs that a negro became the first " white man " to
enter the boundaries of what now constitutes the sov-
ereign State of Arizona.
Arrived at Vacapa, afterwards known as Matape, an
Indian village in Central Sonora, the negro went on
ahead. His instructions were:
" To go to the north fifty or sixty leagues to see if in that direc-
tion there might be observed something great, or some rich country,
and well settled, and if he found anything or heard of anything of
that kind, to stop, and to send me a message by some Indians.
That message was to consist of a wooden cross of white color.
In case the discovery was of medium importance, he was lo send
me a cross of one span in length ; if important, the cross was to be
two spans in length; and if more important than New Spain, he
should send me a large cross."
The trust here imposed upon Stephen does not seem
to agree with the statement of Castafieda, the historian
of Coronado's later expedition, that the negro had
already made himself obnoxious to the Indians of the
country and also to the Fray himself by his overbearing
manner, and especially by taking along with him the
women who were given to him at the villages. Be that
as it may, however, Stephen set forth. Ere long he
returned a messenger
"with a very large cross, as tall as a man; and they told me, by
order of Esteban [Spanish for Stephen], that I should now follow
him at once, since he had met people who gave him information of
the greatest thing in the world, and that he was with Indians who
had been there, of whom he sent me one, and this one told me so
many things of the features of the country, that I refused to believe
it until I saw it myself, or obtained further proof. He said that
How Fray Marcos Discovered Arizona 37
from where Esteban now was it was thirty days' march to the first
city of the country, which was called Cibola. He further affirms
and says, that in this first province there are seven very large cities,
all under one lord, with houses of stone and lime, the smallest ones
of two stories and a flat roof, and others of three or four stories,
and that of the lord with five, all placed together in order; and on
the door-sills and lintels of the principal houses many figures of
turquoise stones, of which he said there was a great abundance ; and
that the people of these cities are very well clothed ; and many other
particulars he told me, as well about these Seven Cities as of other
provinces beyond, of which he said that each one was much more
important than the Seven Cities. In order to find out how he came
to know all this, I questioned him a great deal, and found him very
reasonable." 1
One of these cities was named Cibola. For years
Spaniards had heard of some wonderful seven cities and
it was natural that Fray Marcos should assume that
these cities, so enthusiastically described by Stephen and
his Indian messengers, were the ones so eagerly sought.
Accordingly, two days after Easter Sunday, he
left for the north. At the end of three days' march he
reached the village where Stephen had first received his
knowledge of Cibola, and here he learned that it was
thirty days' journey off, that the houses of the towns
were as large and high as stated; that Cibola was the
first of the Seven Cities, and that besides the seven there
were other " kingdoms," called Marata, Acus and
Totonteac. Here he also learned that Stephen had dis-
obeyed orders and had gone on instead of waiting for
him ; an act of disobedience that was to bring him to his
speedy death. Doubtless he was urged to this by his
own ambitious desire to be the first to discover -Cibola.
Dazzled by pictures of glory and honor which would
surely await him were he to find such a rich treasure-
region as this promised to be, he hurried on, leaving a
1 Quoted by Bandelier in Contributions, as above.
38 Arizona, the Wonderland
cross daily, in token that the news was still good, and
even causing the Indians to build shelters at stated in-
tervals throughout the desert country that his superior
might be able to camp in comfort.
Striking north, Stephen followed the Sonora River
and finally reached the borders of Arizona near the
upper course of the San Pedro River towards the south-
eastern portion of the State. Marcos was not far be-
hind him. Here the friar rested for three days and
again questioned the Indians that lived here about
Cibola. Everything he heard confirmed what he had
been told before, and he now learned that, after crossing
a deserted country, which it would require fifteen days
to travel, he would come to Cibola. Of this region
Bandelier remarks :
"The Apache reservation of Arizona, often designated as the
White Mountain reservation, has been without permanent settlements
for the past four centuries at least. The Apaches roamed and
hunted through it; and their ' rancherias ' lay aside from the trails
which crossed from the Gila River to Zuni. In fifteen days a Eu-
ropean traveler can cross it on foot ; an Indian might do it in shorter
time. Zuni lies, not on the border of the timbered mountain region,
but within three days' march of its northern limit. It can even be
reached from Showlow in two days. South of the reservation, the
San Pedro Valley, with its Sobaypuri villages, was the nearest in-
habited spot."
From this quotation it is evident that Bandelier iden-
tifies Cibola as Zuni, a fact which practically all modern
students are now agreed upon.
In accordance with instructions from the Viceroy,
that although the whole earth belonged to the Emperor
(of Spain), if he saw any land that was particularly
good he was specifically to take possession of it with
whatever formal ceremonies he deemed most appropri-
ate, Fray Marcos showed his delight with the San Pedro
How Fray Marcos Discovered Arizona 39
Valley by making it the object of these solemn cere-
monies and taking formal possession of it.
Now he follows Stephen through the " desert," enter-
ing it on the Qth day of May. It was an uninhabited
country and that was why it was called a desert, for
there was neither lack of water or food. The Indians
provided game in abundance. Bandelier takes these
facts as conclusive evidence that Fray Marcos did not
go by the way of Casa Grande, as some historians have
supposed. He says in a footnote :
" To reach Zuni from Casa Grande, or from the Gila in its vicinity,
requires long and difficult travel. The mountains are rough and
compel long detours. The portion of the Lower Rio Salado between
the Tempe Delta on the west and Upper Salt River Valley on the
east is almost impassable. The mountains on both sides, the super-
stition Range and the Mas-a-Sar, are rugged, forbidding and very
scantly watered. Beyond the junction of the Arroyo Final the head-
waters of the Salt River are extremely difficult to traverse ; and had
he turned northward, avoiding the Sierra Ancha, in order to get
into Tonto Basin, months would have been required to reach either
Zuni or Moqui from the Gila."
For twelve days only he journeyed, and then to his
surprise and horror, he met a returning Indian, in pre-
cipitate flight for his Sonora home. A few sentences
told his sad tale — Esteban had reached Cibola, but the
people had killed him, and his Indian escorts were flee-
ing for their lives.
This part of the story is well known and needs no
enlargement in these pages as it deals with the adjoining
State, nor is it necessary that we follow Fray Marcos
further in his journeyings. He returned to Mexico,
made his report, and in due time Coronado set forth
with his reckless and rollicking conquistadores on their
hopeful quest.
Between them they made Arizona known, and once
40 Arizona, the Wonderland
brought into the light it has never since been forgotten.
Its Indian population fired the zeal of the Jesuits and
Franciscans, and as will be related in another chapter,
they speedily began endeavors for their spiritual con-
quest Missions were founded at Tumacacori, Guevavi,
San Xavier del Bac, and at three of the Hopi villages, —
Awatobi, Walpi and Shungopavi.
Then came the miners, and after it became a posses-
sion of the United States, the cowboys, the trappers, the
Indian traders, the railways, and, finally, the home-
seekers, the agriculturalists, the health-seekers, and the
city builders. It is now in the springing joy of its youth-
ful career of commercial prosperity, which in due time
will far more than rival its antiquarian, barbaric and
romantic history.
CHAPTER IV
THE JESUITS AND FRANCISCANS IN ARIZONA
IN this modern and materialistic age the zeal of the
missionary of the cross is not uncommonly characterized
as fanaticism. The idea of men's braving the hardships
of the desert, the mountains, the wildernesses, of the fierce
hostility of aboriginal superstition merely for the propa-
gation of a religious faith — to modern materialism
this seems preposterous and absurd. But is it not a
sublime manifestation of man's rise above materialism,
above, all sordid and mercenary considerations, that he is
willing to face even death itself for the enlargement of
his spiritual concepts ?
Few ages have seen such a perfect abandon of mission-
ary activity as was experienced by the newly-discovered
continents of America in the sixteenth and seventeenth
centuries. All Mexico, Central and South America
were missionized. The Cross was carried and planted
everywhere. Every tribe and nation, people and tongue
was exhorted to receive the saving ordinances of the
Church, be baptized and enter the fold of the saved.
Every hillside, forest, canyon and valley resounded to
the singing of hymns, chanting of chorals, saying of
masses, and preaching of the Word, while the hearts of
missionaries thrilled, and their eyes filled with tears as
their divine passion met with response from the un-
tutored savages of the New World.
Arizona — at that time an integral part of New
41
42 Arizona, the Wonderland
Mexico — early felt the impulse of these devoted
Spanish friars. Fray Marcos had scarce made his re-
port to the Viceroy, Mendoza, when Coronado set forth.
Prominently identified with this expedition were Fray
Marcos himself — who, however, was sent back to
Sonora soon after Coronado reached Zuni — Frays Juan
Padilla, Juan de la Cruz and a lay brother named Luis
de Escalona. The two former were brave, devoted men
and lost their lives, martyrs to their faith, while Brother
Luis is said to have lived long in the land doing good
deeds and constantly exhorting the Indians to em-
brace the true faith. What became of him we do not
know.
About forty years later, the Spaniards in Mexico in
the meantime having pushed their settlements north-
ward, an expedition started out from Santa Barbara.
It was composed of three friars, nine soldiers, and some
sixteen Indian servants. The organizer of the expedi-
tion was Fray Agustin Rodriguez, a native of Niebla,
Spain; Francisco Lopez, the superior, was an Andalu-
sian ; and the third was Juan de Santa Maria, a Catalan,
well versed in astrology. Francisco Sanchez, commonly
called Chamuscado, was the military commander. The
party reached the pueblos of the Rio Grande and visited
Zuni, but Professor Herbert Bolton conclusively shows,
from the original documents recently discovered, that,
in spite of the oft-repeated assertions and conjectures to
the contrary, they never entered what is now the Arizona
portion of New Mexico. The party went up the Rio
Grande as far as the Tigua towns about Bernalillo, and
Father Santa Maria, desirous of carrying the news to
Mexico of what they had seen, set off alone. He was
killed a few days later by the Indians. In spite of this,
when the soldiers returned to New Spain the other mis-
Jesuits and Franciscans in Arizona 43
sionaries decided to remain at the Rio Grande pueblos.
The reports of this expedition, made by Bustamante
and Gallegos in May, 1582, greatly interested the Vice-
roy and led to important consequences for what is now
Arizona. He decided to send out a new expedition,
firstly, to find out if the missionaries left behind were
still alive, and, secondly, to conquer the land and add it
to the king's territories.
But there was considerable bickering and dickering —
even in our modern sense — ere any expedition was
allowed to start. In those days no unauthorized person
or expedition could explore even a new country. The
king reserved to himself all rights of discovery. But
the Franciscans were anxious about the safety of their
brethren and Fray Bernaldino Beltran, of the monastery
of Durango, volunteered to head a rescue party.
Traveling in New Spain at the time was a wealthy citizen
of Mexico, Antonio de Espejo. Hearing the talk about
the possible danger to the missionaries, he offered to
equip a military escort himself, go along, and personally
bear all the expenses. Practically all authorities have
asserted that Beltran and Espejo organized this expedi-
tion, and it set forth under the authority they had se-
cured. But Bolton now shows conclusively that the
license was given to Fray Pedro de Heredia by Juan de
Ibarra, tenie'nte de gobernador of New Spain. Journey-
ing north, they discovered that Frays Lopez and
Rodriquez had been killed by the Indians at Puaray,
thus confirming a report that had come to them before
they started that Fray Lopez had perished.
Though, thus far, one chief aim of the expedition was
gained, Espejo, on consultation with Fray Beltran, de-
cided to proceed further. Accordingly, they went to
Acoma, thence to Zuni. Here the priest decided to re-
44 Arizona, the Wonderland
turn to New Spain, but Espejo continued his wander-
ings, reached the Hopi pueblos, and discovered some rich
mines.
His return occurred about a year after he had set
forth, and his report upon the rich mines of what is now
Western Arizona played an important part in the next
expedition, that of Ofiate, which was the first real ex-
pedition to subjugate and take possession of the land of
New Mexico and Arizona.
A number of applications were made to the king and
the viceroy for permission to explore and possess this
new land, but the contract was finally awarded to Don
Juan de Ofiate, a wealthy citizen of Zacatecas, whose
father was one of the founders of that city, and whose
wife proudly pointed to Cortes as her grandfather, and
Montezuma as her great-grandfather. Though he
started early in 1596, it was not until 1598 that he finally
overcame all the vexatious obstacles placed in his way
and left New Spain behind. The Franciscans had been
put in spiritual charge of the expedition, with Fray
Rodrigo Duran as commissary, but now he was recalled
and Alonso Martinez put in his place. He was accom-
panied by Francisco de Zamora, Juan Rosas, Alonso
Lugo, Francisco de San Miguel, Andres Corchado,
Cristobal Salazar (a cousin of Ofiate), Juan Claros,
Pedro Vergara, and Juan de San Buenaventura — the
last two lay friars; also brothers Martin, Francisco, and
Juan de Dios.
To Ofiate we owe the real conquest of New Mexico.
He made his first headquarters at San Juan de los Cabal-
leros. This was on the nth of July, 1598. Exactly a
month later, with the assistance of fifteen hundred
Indians, work was begun on an irrigating ditch for the
city of San Francisco. Then a church was built and
Jesuits and Franciscans in Arizona 45
dedicated and the eight missionaries distributed to their
respective pueblos. To Fray Andres Corchado was al-
lotted the province of the Moqui — the Hopi; hence it
is probable that he was the first regularly appointed mis-
sionary in what is now Arizona.
Ofiate now began extensive explorations. He sent an
expedition east, while he wandered west, personally
visiting the Hopi towns. From here he sent Captain
Marcos Farfan down to Bill Williams Fork to find the
mines discovered by Espejo, and some very rich veins
were staked out and claimed. Then, in 1604, Onate
himself went over this same road to the Gulf of Cali-
fornia, returning to San Juan in 1605, having made
friends with the Ozaras (the Maricopa) and the Ama-
cava (the Mohave), the Yumas, the Cuchans, and the
Cocopah Indians on the way. Cotton cloth was found;
also pearls and silver. The Gulf was taken possession
of for the king, and Fray Francisco de Escobar was
given charge of it, " in order that our sacred religion
may settle and people that land and the others next it and
round about, and that we may occupy ourselves in the
conversion of the natives in the place and places most
suited to our mode of life." l
The Gila River was named by Ofiate, " El Rio del
Nombre de Jesus " — the river of the name of Jesus —
and the Colorado, the " Rio Tizon," on account of the
1 Journey of Onate to California, by Zarate Salmeron, and other
original records, in Bolton's Spanish Exploration in the South West,
Scribner's, 1916.
The value of the Ofiate documents discovered by Professor Bolton,
and given to the world in this volume, cannot be over-estimated. We
have now, for the first time, the authoritative records of the Zaldivar
Expedition, hitherto known only through Villagra's poem, The Far-
fan Expedition, and Onate' s own journey into Kansas in 1601. These
personal records forever dissipate much vain conjecture and give
us the true historical data.
46 Arizona, the Wonderland
lighted firebrands carried by the Indians to warm them-
selves in the earlier morning hours.
In 1628-1629 Frays Francisco de Porras and Andres
Gutierrez, with the lay brother Cristobal de la Concep-
cion, were sent to the Hopis. Father Francisco was
zealous in the conversion of the Indians and reported
eight hundred of them duly brought into the gospel net.
This angered the native medicine men, and it is thought
they poisoned the food of the active father, for on the
28th of June, 1633, he died at Awatobi.
In 1680 it is noted that Fray Jose de Figueroa was the
padre in charge at Awatobi, where the mission was
dedicated to San Bernardino. Fray Jose Trujillo had
charge of Shongopavi and Mashongnavi, where five
hundred souls were claimed, under the patronage of San
Bartolome, while Frays Jose de Espeleta and Augustin
de Santa Maria had charge of the mission of San Fran-
cisco, or San Miguel, at Oraibi, where they lived, and
from which point they visited the pueblo of Walpi.
In the pueblo rebellion of 1680 the Hopis played a
conspicuous part. They drove out what Spaniards there
were and slew the hated priests named above, though
there is a tradition still persistent that Fray Espeleta
was left as a slave in Oraibi, where he was used as
a beast of burden, and brought out for special ridicule
and insult at the various feasts and aboriginal cere-
monies.
This rebellion was the natural outgrowth of the sub-
jugation of the Indians by the Spaniards and their be-
ing compelled to accept a religious system which they
neither understood nor desired. Led by a patriot of
San Juan, named Pope, the Indians plotted for fourteen
years until the time seemed ripe. The date of the up-
rising of all the pueblos was set for August 13, 1680,
Jesuits and Franciscans in Arizona 47
but — even though no woman was told — the plot was
revealed to several of the friars. Governor Otermin
sent messengers post-haste to warn all the padres and
Spanish colonies, but the Indians determined upon a
coup. They arose on the loth and killed with relentless
indiscrimination.
Much new light has been thrown recently upon this
rebellion by Charles W. Hackett, on the basis of or-
iginal manuscripts discovered by Bolton in the archives
of Mexico and which were unknown to Bandelier, Ban-
croft, and others. Hackett's articles have been published
in the Southwestern Historical Quarterly and Old Santa
Fe, and no student can afford to neglect these invaluable
contributions. They tell the true story of the rebellion,
the siege of Governor Otermin in Santa Fe and the
escape of the Spaniards to Isleta and El Paso.
Then followed a decade of freedom from Spanish
influence. But Pope, like too many others, drunk with
power, became as tyrannical as the intruders he had
driven out. Civil war reigned. Then, in 1692, Don
Diego de Vargas was appointed governor and sent forth
with an army to reconquer the country. Most of the
Hopis professed peace and were forgiven upon making
formal submission, but the people of Oraibi made no
overtures for forgiveness, and de Vargas, evidently
called away by important doings elsewhere, failed to
visit them. They have ever since been recalcitrant, not
only to Spaniards, but to Mexicans and Americans, hav-
ing resisted our own endeavors to compel them to send
their children to school.
In 1700 Frays Juan Garaicoechea and Antonio Mi-
randa visited them from Zuni and baptised seventy-
three children, but the Hopis themselves refused Chris-
tianity, though the people of Awatobi must have shown
48 Arizona, the Wonderland
some symptoms of yielding to the persuasions of the
missionaries, for, as I have recorded in Chapter VII,
their conditional complaisance so enraged the other
villages that a raid was planned and Awatobi completely
destroyed.
About this time, on the southern borders of Arizona,
another movement was on foot which was materially to
affect the country. This was the incoming of Kino, the
Jesuit, into the Santa Cruz valley, as related in the
chapters on Nogales and Tucson. When the Jesuits
were evicted in 1769 the Franciscans appeared upon the
scene, the dominating figure being Francisco Garces,
whose history is related in the chapter on Tucson. He
was in charge of San Xavier del Bac in its palmy days.
He made various entradas into the northern part of the
State and visited far away California. From Tubac
started de Anza, the valiant captain who founded San
Francisco, accompanied by Fray Pedro Font, one of
Garces' Franciscan coadjutors, all of which is more fully
related elsewhere.
In the earlier part of this chapter I have recounted
some of the efforts of the Franciscans to convert the
Hopi — or Moqui as they were called — of the north.
After the rebellion of 1680, and the destruction of
Awatobi, they most stubbornly refused all missionary
proffers, and equally obstinate were they in their deter-
mination not to yield again to the yoke of the Spanish
oppressors.
On Inscription Rock, on the road between Zuni and
Acoma, is found an inscription, the translation of which
is as follows : " In the year 1716 on the 26th of August
passed by here Don Feliz Martinez, Governor and Cap-
tain-General of this Kingdom, to the reduction and
conquest of Moqui; and in his company the Reverend
Jesuits and Franciscans in Arizona 49
Father Fray Antonio Camargo, Custodian and Judge-
Ecclesiastic."
Prior to 1774, Fray Silvestre Velez Escalante, one of
the New Mexico friars called upon to give their views
as to the feasibility and practicability of a road connect-
ing the missions of this region with those of California,
enthusiastically approved the project. Knowing little
or nothing of the country, he urged the establishment of
a route from Monterey eastward, almost in a direct line
to Santa Fe. And to prove his belief in his recommen-
dation he started from Santa Fe, in 1774, with a party
of nine, including Fray Francisco Atanasio Dominguez,
to reach Monterey by this northern route. They crossed
part of Colorado and Utah, got lost, struck southward,
reached the Hopi towns, spent eight days there, and he re-
ported that he found a population of 7,494 on the three
mesas, two-thirds of whom were at Oraibi. But they
would have none of him, his church or his people.
The same treatment was accorded Garces, when he
also reached them shortly afterwards. In 1780 Gov-
ernor Juan Bautista de Anza visited them, owing to
a report that famine, pestilence, and the raids of hostile
Utahs and Navahos had more than decimated them.
But though he found their population reduced from 7,-
494 to 798 the chief at Oraibi refused a load of pro-
visions and desired that they be left alone, even though
it be to meet death.
So it has been all through the chapter to the present
day. Though schools have been established among
them, some of the older men never cease from their
protest and opposition in spite of imprisonment and
other severe punishment.
Equally futile seemed all efforts to reach the Navahos.
Though Frays Delgado and Irigoyen started in March,
50 Arizona, the Wonderland
1774, by way of Jemes for the Navaho country and
found the Indians apparently eager to become Christians
and receive missionaries, and the viceroy ordered the
founding of four missions, nothing could be done fur-
ther north than the Acoma region (New Mexico) where
Cebolleta and Encinal were established.
It was not until the last twenty-five years that the
Franciscan fathers fully succeeded in establishing suc-
cessful missions among the Navahos. Coming in from
Gallup, New Mexico, they made an excellent beginning
at St. Michaels, just on the line between Arizona and
New Mexico, where they have a church and a school for
children. Here, also, they have a printing press from
which Father Berard has issued two of the most im-
portant works on the Navahos yet published. These are
an Ethnologic Dictionary, which instantly sprang into
high favor and went out of print inside of a couple of
years or less, and the other a two-part Dictionary of
the Navaho language. A branch establishment was later
founded at Chin Lee, near the entrance to the Canyon
de Chelly, where a fine stone church has been built and
many of the Navahos regularly assemble for instruc-
tion and worship.
CHAPTER V
THE CLIFF- AND CAVE-DWELLERS OF ARIZONA
How wonderfully civilizations have come and gone in
the world's history, one being built up, as it were, upon
the ruins of its predecessor! When the Spanish con-
quistadores discovered Arizona and New Mexico, they
found ruins, many and varied, scattered over the land,
from the Casa Grande on the south to the region now
known as Southern Colorado. Possibly they were in-
terested in them; possibly not; of a surety not so much
as they were disappointed in not finding gold, silver and
precious stones. Their chief aim was wealth — ready
and available wealth — and when that failed to materi-
alize they felt their mission was largely a failure. So,
little account was taken of these cliff- and cave-dwellings
until the American invasion of the country in 1846 when
the United States and Mexico went to war. General
Kearny, who was sent out to subjugate New Mexico and
California, found it necessary, after he had taken pos-
session of the latter territory, to chastise the Navahos.
These nomadic and warlike Indians always had been at
war with the Mexicans and on Kearny 's advent they
began to give him trouble. Accordingly, an expedition
was sent under Doniphan, with orders to release all
prisoners and property they had taken, and to obtain
security for their future good behavior, either " by tak-
ing hostages or otherwise." This expedition led to the
making of a treaty — a business at which the Navahos
51
52 Arizona, the Wonderland
were adepts, as well as at breaking them — but was
otherwise ineffective, and in 1849, another expedition
was sent after them. This time soldiers, on their march
from Santa Fe, discovered and described the famous
ruins of the Chaco Canyon and Mesa in New Mexico,
and then, as they imagined, taking their lives in their
hands, they dared the perils and dangers of the Canyon
de Chelly, where the Navahos were reported to have an
impregnable fortress " so high as to require fifteen
ladders to scale it."
The fortress was not found, but Lieut. Simpson — to
whom we owe the descriptions of Chaco — found a
number of interesting cliff-dwellings, which he described
with accuracy.
Then others began to report the discovery of dwell-
ings in cliffs and caves, until it became almost a common-
place. But the " scientific guessers " found these dis-
coveries much to their mind. Out of their innate con-
sciousness, or from their subconscious, or perhaps their
subliminal selves, they drew out and spun, as a spider
its web, their theories as to the peoples who built, lived
in, and deserted these dwellings.
We were told, and most of us believed, they were a
dwarf people — because the doors of the dwellings were
so small — they were a pastoral and agricultural people,
for they wove cotton-goods and grew corn ; they were a
gentle people, harried and pursued by relentless, tireless,
and vindictive foes, who never, for one moment, let up
on them, but compelled an almost superhuman watch-
fulness from their cliff-homes, built as the eagles build
their nests in the most inaccessible eyries, and, who,
finally, were trapped, overcome and exterminated, with
not a solitary survivor to tell the awful tale.
Will my readers please notice the yellow-newspaper
Cliff- and Cave-Dwellers 53
method of scare headlines followed in describing these
hair-raising events — the crescendo of awfulness to the
soul-harrowing climax? How we pitied the dreadful
sufferings of these poor, patient, mercilessly-butchered
cliff-dwellers! Yet no one ever showed us the piles of
bones. I suppose the scientific guessers would have told
us that the fierce Apaches, the warlike Utes, the relent-
less Comanches had eaten their enemies alive and that
there weren't any bones left, — had we pressed them, but,
strange to say, no one was worried about the un found
bones. But how we did weep over the fate of those
poor, those dear, sweet, cruelly-massacred cliff-dwellers!
Then the real scientists got to work. Powell, Steven-
son, Mindeleff, Frank Gushing, Fewkes, Cummings and
the rest — and the sentimentalists got a jolt ; an electric
shock. The cliff-dwellers had not been relentlessly pur-
sued. They had not been driven to these inaccessible
cliffs and there kept in a state of siege until their final
extinction by a horde of ruthless savages ! No ; they had
gone there of their own accord, and had left there with
equal freedom of volition and action, none daring, or
perhaps caring, to make them afraid !
Then we got mad. We didn't believe these new
theorists. What did they know about it anyhow? We
didn't propose to have our pet romances shattered in
that fashion and we jointly stormed and pooh-hooed,
sizzled and buzzed about these jackanapes of pretended
ethnologists, archaeologists, and antiquarians who knew
so little of living human nature as to dare to steal from
us our romances, over which our tender hearts so often
wept, about the butchered, murdered, massacred cliff-
dwellers.
But these men kept at it, calmly insisting that we gaze
upon the facts. The cliff-dwellers were not dwarfs be-
54 Arizona, the Wonderland
cause of their tiny doorways. The doorways were made
small because they had no lumber to make wooden doors
as we do, and they had to use slabs of flat rock which
were hard to find and heavy to move. With relent-
less logic Mindeleff showed the absurdity of the idea
that the cliff-dwellers chose the cliffs as fortresses.
With equally keen critical discernment, and far more
knowledge of the living Indian, Gushing, Fewkes, Ban-
delier, Hodge, Hough, Hewitt and Cummings, conclu-
sively demonstrated the oneness of the cliff-dwellers with
the present-day pueblo Indian.
So there you have the story of the rise and fall of an
exploded bubble : the myth of the cliff-dwellers.
One great reason for much of the popular misappre-
hension that has existed in regard to these ruins is the
gross exaggerations of the yellow-newspaper writers.
The desire to cause a sensation was much more in evi-
dence than the desire to present ascertained facts.
These piles of rough stones were compared with the
ruins of Babylon and Nineveh, Baalbeck and Palmyra,
Ipsamboul and Philse, which, to put it mildly, is the ve-
riest bosh. They are no more to be compared than are
the yelps, howls, barks and shrieks of a hungry coyote
to the mellifluous strains of Melba, Schumann-Heink,
Tetrazzini, Caruso or McCormack. Interesting ? Won-
derful? Certainly! but architectural to a point of com-
parison with the temples of the old world, most de-
cidedly they are not. And yet I would scarcely say, as
one depreciating writer recently did, that : " in fact they
were and are mere hovels, as are the houses of the
Zunis, Hopis and other pueblos of to-day." This is a
little too strong in the other direction.
Some writers have sought to establish a connection
between the cliff-dwellers and the mound-dwellers of
Cliff- and Cave-Dwellers 55
Ohio. They have woven a pretty but purely fanciful
web — far less strong and durable than that of the
common spider — connecting the builders of the ser-
pent mounds with the ancestors of the Hopi, because,
forsooth, the Hopis dance the Snake Dance and some of
their clans regard themselves as descended from the
Snake Mother. Suffice it to say that no scientist of
repute, who is personally familiar with the Eastern
mounds, the Arizona ruins, and the present-day Pueblo
Indians, sees any connection between them.
Yet, nevertheless, these dwellings are interesting be-
yond measure in themselves, without the attachment of
any false sentiment or romance. No world-wide traveler
can gaze upon Betatakin, Kitsiel, Canyon de Chelly and
other Arizona ruins without delight and absorbed at-
tention. The Casa Grande in the South, followed in
succession by the ruins of the Salt River Valley, the
Verde country, the Flagstaff country, the Little Colorado
Valley, the Navaho country — with those found in the
Mesa Verde region on the north, the Pajarito Plateau
and the Zuni country on the east — are all sufficiently
excavated and studied to confirm the conclusions of Cush-
ing and Powell that they belong to one and the same
people, at different periods of their migrations, and under
the influence of different environments.
The Casa Grande (Spanish Great House} ruins are
located in the southern part of the State, half a mile
south of the Gila River, and nine miles southwest from
Florence, Pinal County. The large house was first
mentioned and described by Padre Kino, the Jesuit, who
said mass within its walls in November, 1694. It was
then four stories high, but roofless. Later travelers
have seen and described it, but it was left for Dr. J.
Walter Fewkes, of the Smithonian Institution, to study
56 Arizona, the Wonderland
it sufficiently to describe it, as but one of a large number
of houses that surround it in every direction, though the
others were smaller and of much inferior construction.
The Pimas have a legend that it was built by their an-
cestors, who occupied all the surrounding country, irri-
gating the land from the Gila River, but the scientists
of to-day rather lean to the opinion that the ancestors
of the Hopi or Zuni built and occupied it.
The ruins of the Gila and Salt River valleys are of a
somewhat different type, being made, in the main, of
rude masonry, the material being the loose rock found
available near-by. Hundreds, thousands of these dwel-
lings have been found, and from some of them cotton-
cloth, pottery, stone implements of known and unknown
use, together with the bones, or even the mummified re-
mains of some of their inhabitants have been taken. To
attempt to describe these dwellings would but weary the
reader, as they are much like — in general structure —
those described later on.
In the Verde Valley, lower and upper, many hundreds
of ruins have been found. This is on a natural high-
way from the Casa Grande ruins to the north, and clearly
showed that great aboriginal populations used to reside
here at one time. Two of the principal and well-known
ruins located about midway between the lower Verde
and the upper Verde regions, are the famous Monte-
zuma's Well and Montezuma's Castle, both named doubt-
less by those who knew as much about Montezuma and
his history as does the stone figure on the top of the
London monument. The Castle is on the right bank of
Beaver Creek, a tributary of the Verde River, and three
miles from old Camp Verde. It is constructed in a nat-
ural recess of a limestone cliff, about forty feet above
the level of the stream. It is accessible only by lad-
Cliff- and Cave-Dwellers 57
ders, and consists of five stories. Built on cedar timbers
that rest longitudinally on flat stones on the ledge, it
leans slightly towards the cliff, and is an excellent ex-
ample of the primitive methods followed by the pre-
historic aboriginal architects and builders. In 1895, Dr.
Miller, of Prescott, organized the Arizona Antiquarian
Association, with the avowed intention of protecting this
ruin. By his work it was strengthened and cared for,
and an act passed through the territorial legislature to
prohibit further vandalism on the part of visitors, etc.
In 1906 it was declared a National Monument, which it
now remains.
Nine miles north of old Camp Verde on Beaver Creek
stands Montezuma's Well. It is a natural tank which
occupies the center of a low mesa, full of water to a
certain level, which practically never changes. There
are several cliff-dwellings in the upper portion of the
" bowl," and several mysterious and interesting features
about the Well which have been graphically described by
Charles F. Lummis in his Strange Corners of Our
Country.
Advancing farther north into the wild and rugged
region known as Hell's Hollow to the cowboys — the
Red Rock Country of the less vigorous but equally pic-
turesque-languaged residents of the region — many
more cliff- and cave-dwellings are found, somewhat dif-
ferent in a few particulars, but generally conforming to
those of the lower Verde country.
Those on Walnut Creek, near to Flagstaff, on the
main line of the Santa Fe, have been visited by thou-
sands of tourists during the past thirty years. They
consist of built up front walls, closing in natural recesses
in the cliffs, where a softer stratum of rock has been
weathered away, leaving a bench or floor to build upon,
58 Arizona, the Wonderland
and an overhanging cliff for a roof. Side walls closed
in those dwellings, where necessary, and thus a perfect
shelter was afforded.
In the Lava Cones, some fifteen or sixteen miles north
of Walnut Creek, and about the same distance from
Flagstaff, are the Caves, which the Havasupai Indians
have always claimed as the original homes of their own
ancestors. The pottery and other remains clearly in-
dicate that they were peopled by the same race that
occupied the cliff-dwellings.
Going still further north from Winslow, which is a
few miles east of Flagstaff, more ruins are found, until
one comes to the country of the Hopis and the Navahos.
I have elsewhere referred to the ruins of Sikyatki
and Awatobi and their excavations. These, while pre-
historic, are closely connected with the history of the
present-day Hopis. The other ruins are but a little
more remotely connected.
In the Navaho region, however, as recently as 1908,
one of the finest and most interesting of all the cliff-
ruins of the Southwest was discovered, and as the story
of its finding has never been made public I am glad to
give it place in these pages.
It was well known that there were interesting ruins
in the region of Navaho Mountain, and as early as 1894
and 1897, Richard Wetherill — of the family that had
discovered the Cliff Palace of the Mesa Verde ruins in
Southern Colorado — had visited and excavated the two
ruins known as " Swallow's Nest " and " Kitsiel." In
1908 Professor Byron Cummings, of the University of
Utah, who had long been quietly interested in the an-
tiquities of the Southwest, with two of his students,
Neil M. Judd (now of the National Museum) and
Clifton Lockhart, spent several weeks in an exploring
Cliff- and Cave-Dwellers 59
trip in Northern Arizona. They traversed Sagie ot
Sozie, and some of the Sagie Canyons. The Swallow's
Nest ruin is in the main Sagie, and this they visited, also
discovering the Ladder House and several smaller ruins
in the Water Lily, a branch canyon of the Sagie.
In June, 1909, accompanied by Professor Blum, Niel
M. Judd, Stuart M. Young (a grandson of Brigham
Young), and Donald Beauregard, Professor Cummings
again returned to Northern Arizona and spent the sum-
mer in these Canyons. While at work near the forks
of the Sagie Canyon, about four miles above Marsh Pass,
John Wetherill (now owning, with his partner Coleville,
the Indian trading-post of Kayenta, a few miles away),
joined the party to act as guide and interpreter to Navaho
Mountain, where they were to search for a great nat-
ural bridge that a Paiuti — Noschabiga — had described
the winter before to Mr. Wetherill and his wife. That
afternoon Johnbiga (a Navaho living in the canyon),
visited their camp, and told Mr. Wetherill that his wife
knew of a large cliff-dwelling up a side canyon. He was
at once hired to take the party to the ruin. What they
must have felt when they saw it I can assume only from
what I myself felt. Here is what I wrote at the time:
There are many and different emotions that stir the
human heart, and some sensations that, once felt, can
never be forgotten. Some come suddenly; others more
slowly. Some strike one to a note of high exaltation;
others to a deep feeling close almost to awe and tears.
I had been thinking all the morning of the lives of the
cliff-people and those who had occupied the pueblos of
the Painted Desert Region — how bare and barren things
must have been of anything joyous or happy, save mere
consciousness of existence itself, when, suddenly, Betata-
kin loomed before me. It was not the mass of ruins
60 Arizona, the Wonderland
that gripped me and held me fast, that made the onward
movement of my horse seem like an outrage, a sacrilege ;
it was the vastness, the stupendousness, the tremendously
impressive natural arch that arose above Betatakin. It
is surely one of the most marvelous arches of the world.
Royal arches of the Yosemite — even though in actual
measurement they may be higher and wider — are not
comparable with this wide-sweeping solitary arch.
There the eye is taken with a galaxy of glories — arches,
towers, columns and waterfalls. Here there is nothing
else. The following quotation from Oskison shows that
he was overpowered by the same sensation :
" Then Martin, walking two steps ahead, stopped suddenly and
put his hand out toward me. I came up, to feel his fingers grip
my shoulder. There, wholly revealed, lay Betatakin, a long line of
ruins arched over by a span of rock which leaps to such a height
that it literally takes your breath away. Clear above the tree-tops
it all rose, a dead city set -in a perpendicular cliff-face and now un-
touched by any ray of sunlight.
" ' I have waited here forever,' it said to us. ' Untroubled through
the years, above that tangle of reaching green, I have sat here
serene, watching the suns come and go, welcoming my people in
the days when they came dragging tired feet up the canyon, echo-
ing the laughter and the wailings and the weak crying of the men
and women and babies who came to me, indifferent to their de-
parture, bearing with the few explorers who come to dig among my
ruins, waiting for the slow disintegration of time — and now you
have come ! '
" Dead silence, and in sort of terror — what is called awe, I sup-
pose— for the first minute. Then, quietly, we scrambled up the
last few hundred feet of vague trail to the lovely dripping-spring
which issues from under the foot of the ruins."
The visit of Professor Cummings and his party was
made on August 9, 1909, and this was the first time, as
far as is known, that it was ever seen by a white man.
But another great discovery was ahead of them. Leav-
ing at once for Navaho Mountain, they came in touch
Cliff- and Cave-Dwellers 61
with W. B. Douglass, a special inspector and surveyor
sent out by the Interior Department, to survey and re-
port upon certain regions which it was contemplated
making into National Monuments. Here, under the
guidance of a young Paiuti, called by the Navahos,
Noschabiga, the combined parties discovered on August
14, the greatest natural arch known to the world. The
Navahos called it Nonnezoshie (Great Arch), but with a
fatuity that it is impossible to understand some one in
the Interior Department has named it Rainbow Arch —
a ridiculous English commonplace, instead of the direct
Indian appellation.
In September, Professor Cummings, and his son Mal-
colm, returned to Betatakin and spent several days in
studying the ruin and excavating a few rooms. Then,
after a trip to Salt Lake, he returned again December
i, and completed a systematic study and careful excava-
tion of the whole ruin. v
Prior to this, in July, 1909, when on a trip into the
Nitsie Canyons, a group lying about twenty-five miles
south of Navaho Mountain, and about thirty-five miles
north of west of Betatakin, the large cave-house ruins
were found, now known as Inscription House. The in-
scription was uncovered by little Malcolm Cummings.
He was digging about, as a boy will, in a desultory kind
of way, when suddenly he called out to his papa that he
had found a date scratched upon the wall. Examination
showed this to be part of an imperfect inscription, the
only portion of which that was decipherable being:
" Ghos, 1661, Ano," and on another like what
appeared to be A. D. It is supposed that this may have
been made by some Spanish soldier who wandered into
this region in the year named.
It was Professor Cummings who called Mr. Douglass'
62 Arizona, the Wonderland
attention to this house, urged him to survey it, and
recommended that it be included in the National Monu-
ment reservation, which was done. He also informed Mr.
Douglass of Betatakin and suggested that it be surveyed
and included in the Kitsiel Monument. In order that
there might be no difficulty in finding it, Mr. Judd was
induced to remain and guide Mr. Douglass, which he
did, though at considerable personal sacrifice and loss to
his own party.
I have been thus explicit in relating these discoveries
and their outcome, which I have gained from the Indians
and others concerned, as in later years it is interesting to
know to whom we really owe the first descriptions of the
objects that are pleasing to ourselves.
The Kitsiel referred to is another wonderfully arched
cliff-ruin; similar in all its details to the generality of
such ruins. Both Kitsiel and Betatakin may be seen in
a two days' camping-trip from the Wetherill and Cole-
ville trading-post at Kayenta, where everything neces-
sary for the trip, including a white or Navaho guide,
may be secured.
Here, then, we are at the northern limit, in Arizona,
of the cliff-dwellings, but as I have fully described in
my larger work on this subject, there are more ruins in
Southern Utah, and the most interesting and important
of all — the Mesa Verde ruins — in Southern Colorado.
It is now generally accepted that the people who in-
habited these dwellings came from the South, though
they had no relationship with the Aztecs, as has been
commonly supposed. Their first stopping-place in Ari-
zona territory was in the Salt and Gila River Valleys,
where Frank Gushing, near Tempe, exhumed over
twenty thousand articles of domestic, social, hunting,
war and religious usage, all of which showed kinship
Cliff- and Cave-Dwellers 63
with the present day Pueblo Indians. Whether these
people came at the same time, or later, than those who
built the Casa Grande is yet a matter of study.
What drove them from these valleys is not definitely
known, yet it is more than probable that one or two
seasons of drought led them to hunt for new homes.
Their next steps brought them into the Tonto and Verde
Valleys, in the Red Rock country, where they built in
the cliffs, on the river banks, or the near-by mesas, in
accessible and inaccessible places. It was then that
Montezuma's Castle was built and the homes around
Montezuma's Well — in none of which, however, was
the name of Montezuma ever heard.
Then they moved on, and the base of the San Fran-
cisco Mountains, Oak Creek, Walnut Canyon, and the
Valley of the Little Colorado were next the scene of
their activities. Some of the richest finds of the archae-
ologist have been in Homolobi and other excavated vil-
lages on the Little Colorado, and thousands of visitors
have carried away their only impressions of cliff- and
cave-dwellings as the result of their day's ride out from
Flagstaff to the " Cave-Dwellings " — dug from volcanic
scoriae in the lava-flows of the San Francisco Moun-
tains — thence to the " Cliff-Dwellings " of Walnut Can-
yon. Comparatively few, except Indians, traders, cow-
boys, and Mormons, ever saw the ruins of the Little
Colorado, and to them they were only old stone heaps
and nothing more, save when they learned that there
was a market for any pottery, arrow-heads, articles of
obsidian, etc., that they, or the present-day Indians, might
dig up from. them.
The next movement was into the northern part of the
State, into the Navaho and Hopi country, as well as
eastward into northern New Mexico. Betatakin and
64 Arizona, the Wonderland
Kitsiel and the Canyon de Chelly echoed and re-echoed
the sound of their voices as they sang at their pottery-
making, corn-grinding and in their innumerable dances.
Occasionally, doubtless, the yells of their warrior enemies
were heard and their own fierce responses of defiance;
but not more often than Indians generally have heard
the war-cry of their foes. And it is scarcely likely that
the cliff-dwellers were much more afraid of their ene-
mies than the latter were of them. They generally
managed to hold their own, except when surprised, or
caught in small detached bands.
From this region they swept northward into the land
of the Ute — the Mesa Verde country of southern
Colorado — where the migrations ended, and from
whence the remnants of whatever clans there were came
and settled in the pueblos of the Hopi, the Zuni, and the
region of the Rio Grande.
It must not be inferred that all the cliff-dwellings of
Arizona have been discovered. As recently as the sum-
mer of 1916, Wesley Hill, the owner of the automobile
stage line that is now conveying so many thousands of
delighted tourists over the Apache Trail between Globe
and Phoenix, went up into the Sierra Ancha, the range
that one sees to the northwest from the Roosevelt reser-
voir, and found a number of dwellings that, as far as is
known, had never before been visited by white men. In
the White Mountains, too, new dwellings are often dis-
covered, and to one of exploring disposition Arizona
undoubtedly affords a rich field for adventure and happy
occupation in this particular, as well as in many others.
CHAPTER VI
THE INDIANS OF ARIZONA
I ONCE heard a " gentleman," in characterizing the
acts of another " gentleman," say something to this ef-
fect : " In your association with the Indian you have ab-
sorbed all of his vices and none of his virtues. You are
as treacherous as a Navaho, as vindictive as an Apache,
as cowardly as a Mohave, as dirty-minded as a Wallapai,
and as contemptibly sneaking as a Havasupai."
Certainly that characterization did not partake of
friendliness to the Indian. Governor Safford used to
say that Arizona afforded every type of Indian, more
than could be found in any other portion of the public
domain. To the old-time Arizonan there was only one
good Indian, and that was the dead one. Except for the
peaceful Pimas, Maricopas and Papagoes, the Arizona
Indian was universally execrated, hated, despised,
shunned and feared. The very names Navaho and
Apache were used by Mexican parents, long before the
gringoes came, to scare naughty children, and the whites
kept it up, with the addition that they themselves, men
and women alike, were scared when it was flashed over
the wires that either had gone on the warpath. Yet I
make the daring assertion in this book on Arizona, that
as far as the white men were concerned, the Indians,
even those dreaded scourges, the Apaches, never went on
the warpath without, in the first instance, some white
man was the aggressor. And I do not make this asser-
65
66 Arizona, the Wonderland
tion unknowingly. One has but to read the testimony
and writings of such men as General Crook, Captain —
now General — Charles King, Captain Bourke, and
others, who actually did the fighting that subjugated the
Apaches, to be assured of the truth of my affirmation,
and if more testimony is needed it can be found in the
Report of a special " Indian Peace Commission " ap-
pointed by Congress in 1867, and composed of Generals
W. T. Sherman, Harney, Terry, and Augur, Colonels
W. F. Tappan and John B. Sanborn, and Senators J. B.
Henderson and W. G. Taylor. In 1868 this Commission
reported that during fifty years, to the beginning of
1867, the United States Government had spent five hun-
dred millions of dollars ($500,000,000) and twenty
thousand lives in Indian warfare and (the italics are
mine), they said our wars with Indians had been almost
constant, and they unhesitatingly affirmed that the gov-
ernment had been uniformly unjust toward the Indian.
Another U. S. Commissioner declared, in regard to the
terrible and hated Apaches, that " They were the friends
of the Americans when they first knew them and they
have always desired peace with them. . . . The rela-
tions of the Apaches were peaceable until the latter
adopted the Mexican theory of extermination and by acts
of inhuman, treachery and cruelty made them our im-
placable foes."
I hold no brief in defense of the cruelty and barbarous
atrocities perpetrated upon white men and women (often
innocent) by Apaches and others when on the warpath,
but in honor I am compelled to face the facts, and these
are just as stated by the competent witnesses I have
quoted, viz., that some monstrous act of injustice,
treachery or cruelty perpetrated by a bad white man
upon the Indians first sent them out upon the warpath.
The Storming, by the Apaches, of the Mission
of Tumacacori, between Nogales
and Tucson, Arizona.
From a Painting especially made for this work by
W . L. Judson.
The Indians of Arizona 67
Once there, they fought as savages, aroused, vindictive,
hot with hatred, and totally regardless of the actual guilt
or innocence of the victim. It was enough that he be-
longed to the white race.
Fortunately, this era of bloody and hideous warfare
is past. An unattended white woman is safer, day or
night, in the heart of the Navaho or Apache reservations
to-day than she is in the heart of any large American
city after nightfall. For over thirty years I have visited
the various Indian tribes of Arizona and have never
carried a weapon of any kind ; nor have I felt for a mo-
ment that I needed one. I have slept alone, for weeks
at a time, in their camps, stretched out on the ground in
my blankets, and have felt, and actually been, as secure
as if I were in my bed in my own home. Indians —
Apaches, Navahos, Wallapais, Tontos, Havasupais,
Pimas, Yumas and Mohaves — have been my solitary
companions and guides on long trips taken into the secret
recesses of little known regions, and never once have I
felt a qualm of fear or uneasiness, or lost a minute's
sleep wondering whether I was safe. Consequently, I
have a right to speak of the Indians as I know them,
regardless of the opinions of others.
Let me here say that to those who, in the unhappy and
unfortunate periods when the Indians were on the war-
path, lost beloved ones, who were innocent of any wrong
towards the Indians, and whose taking off was often
accompanied by horrors and mutilations that are scarce
believable, my profoundest sympathy is extended. Nor
do I wonder that they feel intense bitterness towards the
Indians. But even these wrongs do not blind me to the
original iniquities of which we, the white race, were the
perpetrators, and to which alone the fearful cruelties of
the Indians must be attributed,
68 Arizona, the Wonderland
That the Apaches and Navahos were brave warriors,
worthy of the steel of our best soldiers, no one who has
read Captain King's Campaigning with Crook, or
Bourke's On the Frontier with Crook will deny.
When the Kearny conquest took place in 1846, Ari-
zona was found to contain the following Indian tribes.
Their numbers were practically unknown, and it was not
until long afterwards that any systematic attempt was
made to take a census of them. Beginning at the east,
on the north were the Navahos, who roamed up into
Colorado and Utah, as well as far into New Mexico, and
south to near the 34th parallel, and clear across the State,
overlapping the countries of the Hopis, Wallapais and
Havasupais, to within about a hundred miles of the Colo-
rado River. The territory as far as the Little Colorado
they regarded as definitely theirs, though conceding the
Province of Tusayan — which is east of the Little Colo-
rado — to the Hopis. Beyond there their tenure was not
so certain, but roaming bands and isolated families could
always be found to the i i3th degree of longitude.
The Province of Tusayan is in Navaho County, just
south of the 3Oth parallel, and occupying the space be-
tween longitudes no and in. The Havasupais live in
a very small part of Havasu (Cataract) Canyon, some
forty or fifty miles west of El Tovar Hotel at the Grand
Canyon, while the Wallapais, their cousins, have a large
reserve, a little further west and south, in about the
center and southern end of Mohave County.
There are Mohaves, as there are Chemehuevis and
Yumas on both sides of the Colorado River, one portion
of the Mohave Reservation being north of Needles, and
the other a few miles north of the 34th parallel. The
Chemehuevis occupy a beautiful valley in between.
Many Yumas live in Arizona, although the Agency for
oj^iisui oy George Wharton James.
AN AGED HAVASUPAI INDIAN.
The Indians of Arizona 69
the Reservation is just across the Colorado River from
the town of Yuma, occupying the old buildings of the
abandoned Fort Yuma.
South of Phoenix a few miles live the Pimas, with
bands of Maricopas and Papagoes. These tribes live
in perfect harmony one with another. Their territory
used to be an extensive one, and in Spanish days was
mapped as Papagueria, reaching from about midway be-
tween the 33rd and 34th parallels to what is now the
Mexican line and lower, and from the region east of
Tucson to, say, fifty miles or so west of Phoenix.
As for the Apaches, scattered bands of them were
found over practically the whole of southern Arizona.
They were named according to locality, as, for instance,
the Mohave Apaches, who lived in the Mohave Country
near the Colorado River ; the Tonto Apaches, who occu-
pied the Tonto Basin; the San Carlos or White Moun-
tain Apaches; the Coyotero bands who roamed over
that most beautiful of all beautiful regions in east cen-
tral Arizona, and the Chiricahua — pronounced Cheer-e-
kow-a — Apaches whose range was in the extreme south-
east corner.
In all these regions government schools have been es-
tablished for the education of Indian children; many of
them have farmers to teach them, and also the adult In-
dians, modern methods of farming, and in addition there
are two independent Indian boarding-schools, where the
children are taken away entirely from their own home
surroundings, and educated in practically the same way
that white children are. These schools are located, one
at Phoenix, another at Truxton Canyon, the latter a
small Wallapai settlement, where the government build-
ings have been erected about midway between Kingman
and Seligman.
70 Arizona, the Wonderland
The Indian question in every State is beset with many
complexities and difficulties. No amount of reading can
ever make one conversant with the facts it is absolutely
essential one should know rightly to understand it. For
instance, even so well-informed a man as the Honorable
Merrill E. Gates, one of the Board of Indian Commis-
sioners, a few years ago, wrote an article on " The
American Indian " which appeared in the Los Angeles
Times. In this he stated :
"While they are often spoken of as 'dispossessed of their lands
by the whites/ their present holdings are not inconsiderable ! The
Indian Reservations set apart by the United States for the 270,000
Indians (about one three-hundredth of our population of 76,000,000),
have an area of 119,000 square miles, about one-thirtieth of our en-
tire territory! Each Indian has pro rata from nine to ten times
as much land allowed him as is allowed to the average American
citizen, since 76,000,000 of inhabitants of our territory have in all
but 3,603,000 square miles. These Indian Reservations are equal in
area to the entire States of Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont,
Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New Jersey, Maryland
and Delaware, with over two-thirds of the great State of Pennsyl-
vania in addition! Although a large part of the land on these
reservations is valueless for farming or grazing purposes, the
' landed interests ' involved in the ' Indian question ' are seen to
be immense. Coal and mineral deposits of all kinds still further
complicate the interests involved."
In reading this, and similar statements, I am compelled
to the thought that the most mischievous writer of all
is the one who uses statistics in such a way that they
are at one and the same time perfectly true, yet abso-
lutely deceiving and cruelly misleading. Some state-
ments may deceive yet not cruelly mislead any one, but
these statements mislead the white race to the belief that
the Indians have far more land than has the white
race (in proportion) and that, therefore, our protest on
the Indians' behalf is unnecessary. But what matters it
The Indians of Arizona 71
if ten tribes of Indians have ten times more land than
they need if other ten tribes (say in Arizona), have little
or none, or that which they do have is worthless. Take
the whole Navaho and Hopi reservations in Arizona, and
save for a few patches of corn and pasture land and the
few scattered springs, the major portion of these areas
would not be accepted by the ordinary white man as a
gift. The same has been the case in California as I
clearly showed in my In and out of the Old Missions,
some years ago.
Furthermore, it should never be forgotten that the
Indians (at least as far as we were concerned) were the
original owners of the land. We have dispossessed
them. By what right? Dr. Gates totally ignores this
phase of the question. His argument is on a par with
that of a robber who might say, " Why should my vic-
tim complain ? I have taken only two-thirds of his prop-
erty, which is distributed among twenty members of my
family, while he still has one-third for but four persons."
Let us face the unpleasant facts fearlessly and at least be
honest with ourselves. We have taken the major por-
tion of the Indians' lands by force ; where we have made
treaties we have invariably broken them ; white " fools
and blind " have worked untold havoc with them when
placed in positions of responsibility and trust, and the
least we can now do with them is to give them as square
and honest treatment as is possible, helping them in
every way to secure the best and most useful educa-
tion.
The problem of Indian education is far too large to be
argued out in these pages and wiser heads than mine have
given much consideration to it. Yet in this, as in all
other matters, the practical outcome is a fair test of
success. There is no question but that where Indian
72 Arizona, the Wonderland
children are so trained, and they themselves have the
spirit and desire to go out and live with the whites, either
in independent occupations, or as employes, their school
education is a benefit to them. On the other hand, for
the large majority who will not, or cannot, or any-
how do not go out among white people, and who re-
turn to their tribal life, it must be confessed the present
Indian educational system leaves much to be desired.
Is it not self-evident that a system of education is
faulty that deprives a child of all self -initiative and re-
sponsibility for clothes, food and care, where everything,
indeed, is done for him, and where his whole life is regu-
lated to the tap of a bell, so that he is not only not
benefited by it when he returns to the reservation, but is
actually unfitted for the life he is now compelled to lead?
There he had a good room, with closets, trunk, etc., in
which to keep his clothing; he ate, seated in a chair be-
fore a table, with all the equipment of the white race;
he slept in a clean bedroom, with a place to hang up his
clothes, and with a bathroom near by for regular bath-
ing and sanitary toilet purposes; there he had oppor-
tunity for privacy. Here, on the reservation, there is
no privacy, he has no bedroom — the ground out of
doors or inside the rude hut generally being his couch;
often he has neither table nor chair; and the bathroom,
washroom and toilet are unknown. How can such a
one put into operation the things he has been taught at
school? When the pupil is a girl, conditions are far
worse, for her clothing needs greater care, and for her,
privacy is more essential than the boy. Then, too, it is
seldom their cooking methods are changed — a camp-
fire, a few primitive utensils and the methods honored
by centuries of usage. How can a girl keep herself
clean squatted before a camp-fire, her clothes ever in the
The Indians of Arizona 73
ashes, her hands pottering about with the grimy utensils
that no amount of energy and labor can keep clean ?
It is all nonsense to talk of the influence of the edu-
cated children upon their reservation-born and -living
parents. Such influence as they actually exercise — and
I have been watching its exercise for thirty years —
would produce results, perhaps, and mainly perhaps, in
twenty-five thousand years. The effect their education
has is to dissatisfy them, fill them with discontent with
home conditions, and, unfortunately, it also disqualifies
them for living in their former homes. Unless they can
" get a job " with the whites, or have — what compara-
tively few of them possess — the power of initiative to
start out for themselves, either among the whites or on
the reservation, they are handicapped, hipped and hob-
bled, instead of helped, by their education.
As I have elsewhere stated, I know of no worker in
the whole Indian service who so thoroughly, wisely, and
sanely grasped the situation and solved the problem, as
did W. T. Shelton, formerly the agent for the Navahos
at the San Juan Agency, and, though this agency geo-
graphically is in New Mexico, his scholars were largely
gathered from the Arizona portion of the reservation.
He introduced blooded sheep, goats, and beef and milk
cattle, and made it possible for his scholars — girls and
boys alike — to acquire them. He secured irrigation for
their land near enough to the Agency to keep an active
interest alive between graduate students and their
teachers. He built homes, planted trees and grain,
etc., on the land chosen by his graduate students and
thus settled them down where they could be helped,
guided and influenced by their teachers, and yet where
their parents could come and visit them. Yet, because
he did not meet with some person's approval who had
74 Arizona, the Wonderland
the ear of the government, he was made so uncomfort-
able that he was compelled to resign to preserve his own
dignity, and the Indian Service has thus lost a man who
was more thoroughly solving its problems than any man
it has ever had in its whole history.
To describe all, or even a small part, of the things of
interest that pertain to the religious, ceremonial, tribal,
social and individual life of the various Indian tribes of
Arizona would require not one book the size of this
volume, but ten or more. To the ordinary white man an
Indian is an Indian, that is all. He sees little or no dif-
ference. Yet there are as many racial differences among
them as there are between the Chinese and the Eng-
glish, the Germans and the Tagalogs, the French and the
South Sea Islanders. It would take several volumes the
size of this to describe the various rites and ceremonies of
the Hopis, and equally as many those of the Navahos
and Apaches. To merely recount the traditions I my-
self have gathered from these peoples and the Pimas
would require several more, and there are still Mohaves,
Cheroehuevas, Havasupais and Wallapais to be consid-
ered. In 1914, I published a volume of over 200
pages, with 32 plates in color and over 200 in half tone,
dealing with nothing but the Navaho Indian and his
blanket.1 I could write a book this size, without pad-
ding, on the single subject of the various pollens of
flowers and seeds gathered by the Navahos and used by
them in their ceremonials — the symbolism, the songs,
the rituals connected with them. Washington Matthews
has written two large volumes on the Navaho — one
dealing alone with his legends,2 and the other with one
1 Indian Blankets and Their Makers, A. C. McClurg & Co.,
Chicago, 111.
2 Navaho Legends, 300 pages, published for the American Folk
Lore Society.
The Indians of Arizona 75
single ceremony, called The Night Chant,1 and I do not
exaggerate when I say that another Matthews could
gather up enough more legends to fill five more books,
and that the Navahos have another ten ceremonies to
describe, each of which would require another large
volume.
Hence I can say but little here of the general subject.
Suffice to say there are degrees of aboriginal culture,
even as there are stages of civilization with us. The Mo-
haves, Havasupais and Wallapais represent one stage,
the lowest found in Arizona, but by no means as low as
is found among aborigines elsewhere in the world ; then
on a far higher plane come the Navahos and Apaches;
still higher are the Pimas, Papagoes and Maricopas,
while the pueblo-loving Hopis are, perhaps, taking them
all in all, the furthest advanced towards civilization.
They are all, however, nature worshippers, their wor-
ship being designed largely for conciliating and propitia-
ting the powers behind natural phenomena. The Snake
Dance of the Hopis is a prayer for rain ; the Lelentu, or
Flute Dance, a prayer that the water will flow abun-
dantly into their springs. They pray and dance at corn-
planting time, and at harvest time, at the coming of
winter and the coming of summer. The Navahos dance
away sickness, and have chants and dances for repre-
senting their myths and for every purpose under the sun.
The Moving Upward chant deals with their legends of
" coming up " by stages out from the under-world. The
War Dance is for dispelling foreign enemies, and also
for driving out all evil from the individual or the com-
munity ; the Rite of the God men, which has dance, chants
and prayers was used in raids or war; another is for
1 The Night Chant, 330 large folio pages, in the Memoirs of the
American Museum of Natural History.
76 Arizona, the Wonderland
dispelling witches; another called the Chant for Dispel-
ling the Darts of the Male Powers of Evil; the Owl
Chant deals with the making of the moccasin; the Hail
Chant, the Corral Rite, and others deal with capturing
wild animals. Then there are the Big Star Chant, the
Wind Chant, the Coyote Chant, the Water Chant, the fe-
male Lightning Chant, the Chant for Trapping of
Eagles; the Feather Chant, the Mountain Chant of the
Maiden Becoming a Bear, the Chant of Beauty, the
Chant of the Clan Dance, the Feather-shaft or Knife
Chant, sometimes called the Life Chant, the Bead or
Eagle Chant of the Great Shiprock, the One Day Song,
the Red Ant Chant, the Big God Chant, the Chiricahua-
Apache Wind Chant, the Lightning Chant, and the
Mountain Chant to the Small Birds.
Some of these dances and chants require hours, others
days and nights, and I myself have sat for nine days and
nights, except when sleep-weariness overcame me, listen-
ing to songs and watching ceremonies and dances that
went on in continuous performance, with few repetitions,
and each song must be sung from memory and without
the slightest error in word or intonation, or the whole
performance is vitiated and has to be gone over again.
The songs, too, are not mere meaningless and music-
less sounds. The poetry is often richly beautiful, both
in sentiment and expression, and our musical experts,
as MacDowell, Troyer, Cadman, Farwell, Lieurance, and
others, are beginning to appreciate to the full the rich
suggestions found in Indian melodies, led by that master
of Indian thought as well as Indian music, Natalie Cur-
tis, whose Indian Book * is one of the marvels of twen-
tieth-century bookmaking.
1 A book made up entirely of Indian speeches, songs, art-sug-
gestions, etc., of which Miss Curtis was merely the transcriber.
Published by Harper & Brothers.
The Indians of Arizona 77
Of the blanketry and basketry of the Arizona Indians
much might be written. My regret is that I am able to
give so little of the Indian as I know him to be to my
readers, many of whom, undoubtedly, have been filled up
with the ordinary mis-'m formation on the subject so that
they know, not the real Indian, but a bogus and false
creature whom the white man's prejudices have created.
For instance, the Navaho woman is seldom, if ever, idle.
She prepares the food, gathers the firewood, fetches the
water, often from long distances, and cares for the chil-
dren. Yet besides these duties she is often the shepherd
watching the large flocks of sheep and goats, moving
them from one locality to another as the scant pasturage
gives out; nearly always she does the shearing, carries
the heavy fleeces on her back to the hogan, and then
laboriously picks out all the burrs, pieces of stick, etc., by
hand, before she washes them. For soap she uses the
root of the amole, after crushing or macerating it be-
tween two rocks. No soap ever made by white chemist
surpasses this saponaceous deposit made by Mother Na-
ture, and it communicates a silkiness to the wool which
never follows the use of any of our ordinary soaps of
commerce.
When clean the wool must be dyed, then carded, spun
and twisted with a hand-spindle into kinky, bristling
strands before it is ready to be woven. Then the loom
is set up, and who that has seen one in its native habitat
has not been thrilled with the aboriginal genius of its
conception? The warp is wrapped around two poles,
which act as warp beams. These are loosely but evenly
lashed to two supplementary warp beams, which in turn
are tightly lashed, with strongest rawhide, to the solid
but rude framework, four square, made out of the
trunks of pine, juniper or cottonwood. The base of the
78 Arizona, the Wonderland
frame is made firm and secure by attaching it with raw-
hide thongs to pegs which are driven deeply into the
ground.
Here in the shelter of a brush hogan, yet open on all
sides to the winds of heaven, the weaver plies her active,
obedient and disciplined fingers. But what of the brain
behind the fingers, and of the design those fingers are re-
quired to weave? Whence did that busy brain conjure
up those remarkable and striking designs ? I know that
we shall be told by some who " know what they are talk-
ing about, as they have been on the Navaho reserva-
tion," that the trader supplies the chart of the designs
and bids the weaver copy them. True! That is the
new way, as the trader has learned that certain designs
" take " better with the trade, sell better to his customers,
than others, and he is after business pure and simple.
The art, as an art, means nothing to him, neither does it
to many of the weavers of to-day. But to the real good
Navahos, the genuine artists, every trader knows he dares
offer no chart. They are not to be perverted from the
religious ideas of their ancestors, who taught them that
the creative and artistic gift was of the gods, to be
prized and used, and that only by so doing could it be
retained. Hence every design is new, every new blanket
must have its original design which the active brain
of its weaver creates out of suggestions gained from a
life-time of careful observation of Nature. The stars,
clouds, lightning, falling rain, electric phenomena,
springs, rivers, waterfalls, flowing water, sunlight on the
water, ripples, cascades, flying birds, nests, trees, flowers,
animals — everything is grist to the mill of the Navaho
artist's creative mind.
Then comes the actual weaving. In and out of the
warp her active fingers carry the weft, sometimes of one
The Indians of Arizona 79
color, then again of a dozen. Her shuttle is only such
in name, for she knows nothing of a shuttle. A ball
of yarn, or, if the stretch of the weave of a particular
color is very wide, a sufficient quantity of yarn wound
upon the end of a smooth stick, answers the purpose.
Sometimes a dozen tiny balls of yarn will hang dangling
down in front, showing the variety of colors and the in-
tricacy of the pattern the weaver has conceived. As
each row of weaving is inserted a smooth, round-edged
stick, two feet long or thereabouts, and two or three
inches wide, called the batten stick, is brought down
with great force to " batten " the yarn into place.
Slowly the blanket is built up, weeks, months, being
required to complete a good one. And here let me say
that all the talk about Navahos having forgotten the
best traditions of the art is far from true. I would that
every weaver still created her own designs, but to our
" practical " age this savors more of the academic and
theoristic than of the necessary. I would that they still
used their own native dyes. They were surer, less
glaring, produced more harmonious results, and were
good for many life-times, but it is unreasonable to ex-
pect the Navaho to follow slow, laborious and intricate
dye-making processes, when for a dime she can secure
a package of aniline dye which produces results that
please most Americans better than her own more sub-
dued colors. Yet when it comes to effectiveness of
design, harmoniousness of color-schemes, strength of
warp, cleanliness of wool, care in dyeing, fineness in
weft, skill in weaving, closeness and neatness of weave,
there are scores of Navaho women to-day who can equal
any of the fine weavers of the past. Hence, I have no
hesitancy in asserting that there are as good Navaho
blankets being made to-day as ever in the history of the
80 Arizona, the Wonderland
art. If any are interested in a fuller discussion of this
subject, I refer them to my large book upon the subject.1
While there is a well-known basket known as the
Navaho Wedding Basket — originally, no doubt, made
by the Navahos, though now made only by the Paiutis, —
this people can no longer be regarded as basket-makers.
But there are several basket-making tribes in Arizona.
These are the Pimas, Papagoes, Hopis, Havasupais,
Wallapais, Chemehuevis and Apaches. The Pima
baskets are rather coarse in weave, and possess strik-
ing designs, chief among which are the Greek key and
fret, the swastika and a kind of blossom design, where
one petal may be seen behind another when the basket
is held so as to afford the proper perspective. The
Papagoes make a much poorer quality of basket, and it
is largely imitative of the art of the Pimas. The Hopis
make two kinds of baskets, one with dyed willow splints
at Oraibi only, and another of coiled yucca splints, made
at all the other villages. The Chemehuevis, Havasupais
and Wallapais make comparatively few baskets and there
are not many good weavers amongst them. Their
splints are the same as those of the Apaches, willow and
martynia (or cat's claw), but both in basketry shapes
and designs these weavers are far more restricted than
their Apache sisters.
In the Museum of the University of Arizona at
Tucson, there are two interesting collections of baskets.
One is loaned by Perry Merrill Williams of Maricopa,
and is mainly of Pima weave, and the other was donated
by former Governor George W. P. Hunt, and is of
Apache baskets. Another fine collection of baskets of
1 Indian Blankets and Their Makers, fully illustrated, and with 32
plates of typical blankets in color. A. C. McClurg & Company,
Chicago.
The Indians of Arizona 81
this weave is owned by Mrs. Charles A. Shrader of
Tucson, who has had a special building erected for their
shelter. The accompanying illustration shows a small
part of the collection. Here are placques, bowls and
ollas, some of the latter being large and handsome, and
all of them with striking designs. When it is recalled
that all of these are created in the weaver's mind, with-
out pencil or paper, not even a drawing of them in the
sand, it will be seen that they are true artists. There
is far more originality with the Apaches than with their
Pima and Papago sister weavers. They copy but little,
and then only when they have forgotten the religion of
their ancestors. The professional ethnologists say they
cannot get any interpretation of the symbolism of the
designs. The Indians say the old women made them
so, and the younger ones copy. But these ethnologists
do not know the psychology of the Indian woman. She
is as reticent about her inmost feelings as is1 the most
refined and retiring of cultured white women. Why
should she tell of her inmost thoughts and feelings to a
mere passing stranger, and especially when the stranger
is a member of the white race which she hates, despises
and fears? It took me over a decade to get my first
glimpses into an Indian weaver's heart, and then the
privilege was accorded me only because the Indians,
men, women and children, had learned to love, respect
and trust me. The professional ethnologist who goes
on a hurried visit, makes a few photographs and a few
outward observations, may question in his inconsequen-
tial and desultory way for a thousand years, and it will
ever be without result. Love, friendship, sympathy,
alone, are the keys that will unlock the door to the
secrets the Indian weaver puts into the designs of her
baskets.
82 Arizona, the Wonderland
This subject of Indian baskets I have treated of
more fully in another book,1 many thousands of
copies of which have been sold, showing the profound
interest felt in it by many of our more intelligent
citizens.
The Hopi Indians occupy the northern part of the
State, east of the Grand Canyon region at El Tovar, and
on the further side of the Little Colorado River. They
are the Hopituh Shinumo, — the People of Peace ; —
hence have been called, not inaptly, the Quaker Indians
of Arizona. Interesting in every detail of their lives,
they have become world- famed by their remarkable and
thrilling ceremonies for bringing the rain, known to the
white race as the Snake Dance. In this peculiar rite
living and deadly rattlesnakes are carried in their mouths
as well as in their hands. Thousands of people have
come from all parts of the world to see it, and I have
yet to hear one say it was less exciting than he antici-
pated. I have described this ceremony so often,2 that
I must ask the curious reader to consult one of the books
named in the footnote, should he desire to inform him-
self further in regard to it.
While they are a very different people, the Navahos
live near neighbors to the Hopis, the latter occupying
the high mesas of a limited region, while the former
range many hundreds of miles east and west, north and
south.
To me the cornfields of Hopis and Navahos are gen-
1 Indian Basketry and How to Make Indian and Other Baskets.
412 pages, 600 illustrations. Cloth, 8vo. The Radiant Life Press,
Pasadena, Calif.
2 See Indians of the Painted Desert Region, Little Brown & Co.,
Boston ; Our American Wonderlands, A. C. McClurg & Co., Chicago ;
Little Journeys to Strange Places and Peoples, A. Flanagan Co.,
Chicago.
The Indians of Arizona 83
erally a pathetic proof of the indefatigable and yet cheer-
ful and brave struggle made by these people with the
adverse conditions of Nature. Seldom, if ever, discour-
aged, they plant their corn where few white men would
expect a crop, hoe it with diligence, watch it with in-
tense interest, and guard it with care. When fully grown
it is seldom more than three feet high. Some of the
ears are pink, some blue, some a yellowish white, and
others slightly green. Before taking it up to the mesa,
or hogans, to be dried by being exposed to the sun, it
generally is cooked in the following fashion: A pit is
dug that is ten or fifteen feet deep, made with a nar-
row neck or chimney, and which is hollowed out with
quite a cave underneath. On one side a narrow stair-
way is cut leading down to its base, at the foot of which
a small hole is cut through into the chamber. A fire
is kindled in this chamber and plenty of inflammable
wood piled upon it. The hole serves as a draught and
the pit is soon a flaming furnace. When the burning
wood has produced sufficient heat, a sprinkling of earth
is thrown over the coals, and then corn in the ear is
tossed in until the pit is practically full; the bottom
hole is carefully closed. Corn husks, hay, leaves and
earth are then put over the mass, with a final sealing-
cover of mud, and the corn is allowed to remain and
steam all night or until its owner thinks it is " done."
Then it is ready to be sun-dried, after which it becomes
the actual possession of the woman of the house, who
stores it away, and without whose permission not a cob
of it can be used or sold.
Corn — natan — forms one of the chief articles of the
Navaho's diet. It is a gift from their gods. Fresh, it
is roasted in the ear, or sometimes scraped from the
ear and cooked in its own milk. In the olden days,
84 Arizona, the Wonderland
when I first visited the Navahos, this cooking was
done by putting hot rocks into the cooking-pot or basket,
stirring up the porridge within so long as the " sizzling "
continued, and then deftly yanking out the cooled rock
and substituting another one fresh from the bonfire.
Never does corn taste so delicious to me as when cooked
this way ; and roasted on the coals in the ear comes near
to being almost as good.
Tortillas are also made from corn-meal, by cooking on
a large flat rock, under which a fire is made, — or, ac-
cording to modern methods, by taking an old coal-oil
can, flattening it out and using that instead of the
rock-slab.
Bread is made of corn, wheat and even pinyon flour,
separate or mixed, as the Navaho cook's storehouse
supplies. When the dough is mixed, the sheep-skin
that serves as a sleeping-pallet at night-time, is turned
over, rudely brushed off with the hand, and is converted
into a bread board. When made into loaves it is baked
in the ashes. While, as a rule, the Navaho woman now
uses baking-powder, once in a while she learns how to
make yeast. Then she allows her loaves to remain on
the sheep-skin to rise. One visitor, watching the proc-
ess recently, thus describes an interesting bit of by-
play which reveals the Indians' love of practical joking.
He says:
"Watching .... I was just in time to see the pater-familias
Navaho perpetrate what he evidently considered an excellent joke
upon the cook. He was holding the fat six-months'-old baby in his
arms, for the Navaho father takes quite as much care of the chil-
dren as the mother, and baby was fairly clean, for I had just watched
him scrubbing it with sarid, which on the desert has to do in place
of water. Grasping the little cupid's plump brown foot in his hand,
he planted it squarely in the middle of each loaf, leaving a Bertillon
imprint that would scarcely be duplicated. The madame, in blanket
The Indians of Arizona 85
and moccasins, smiled affably, baby gurgled its delight, showing a
wide, toothless expanse of gum, and the preparation of the meal
went on."
In regard to the foregoing statement that sand has to
take the place of water in " washing the baby," it re-
quires slight modification. While I have seen Navaho
parents use sand in the manner described, it was more
for the purpose of removing caked mud or dirt, and not
for any vigorous and direct contact with the skin. But
as rigid cleanliness, in our sense of the word, would be
an absurd refinement to most Navahos, it may be taken
for granted that little washing of face and body is ever
done. The weekly sweat bath, an exposure of the body
to the rain, and a plunge in the rarely-found streams,
answers for all ordinary purposes.
Like the Navahos, the Hopis make corn their chief
article of diet They prepare it in the same ways, and
also have other methods, notably piki, their paper bread,
and pikami, or baked mush. Piki-making is an art no
American has yet practiced successfully. It has been
handed down from generation to generation among the
Hopis, and to them it is easy and commonplace. As be-
fore related, the Hopis grow corn of several colors.
In making piki the blue generally is used. After grind-
ing and sifting, it is mixed with water and made into a
thin batter. Only the artist knows when the proper
consistency is obtained. A fire is then lighted under
the tooma (cooking stone), and when it is hot enough,
the cook seats herself on her legs with her feet turned
behind her. Beside her is her bowl of batter, a flat
placque holding dry meal and a tin can of mutton grease
in which is a rag ready for use. Two fairly long, dry
sticks of firewood, nicely gauged so as not to give too
great a heat, are thrust under the tooma, and as they
86 Arizona, the Wonderland
burn the cook pushes them forward. This keeps the
heat of the tooma fairly uniform. Now, wiping her
grease rag over the griddle, it is ready for the batter.
Dipping her fingers in it, she brings up just the right
quantity and rapidly and deftly skims over the surface
of the griddle. How she can do it without blistering
her ringers is a perpetual mystery. Every white person
that ever tried it, I guess, always carried a crop of
ringer blisters for a week thereafter. But in her case
she takes the crackling, crisp sheet before it is per-
fectly dry and folds it over and over, or rolls it into a
long roll about an inch and a half in diameter, and the
process is repeated.
Pikami is really baked green-corn pudding or mush,
but it is made throughout the year, when green corn is un-
obtainable. The corn-meal is mixed with sugar, or its
equivalent, and coloring matter from squash-blossoms.
It is then placed in an earthenware olla or jar, and cov-
ered with a rock which is plastered tightly with mud.
In the meantime the oven has been heated. This is a
dug-pit, generally just outside the doorway, some-
times lined with slabs, or piled up rocks, and sometimes
not, into which pinyon knots and other quick burning
wood that leaves a fair quantity of hot coals are placed.
On the bed of coals the olla is now lowered, a few coals
placed on the cover, the oven itself closed and sealed
with mud, and the whole allowed to remain overnight.
In the morning a delicious, well-cooked and nutritious
mush or pudding is the result, that, when prepared by
cleanly hands, is a dish of which I can eat my full share.
Another corn-meal food is pwvulu, which might well
be termed Hopi corn-meal doughnuts, being made some-
what in the same fashion, though they are ball-shaped.
Most of the Indians of Arizona also eat mutton, and
The Indians of Arizona 87
they have learned the use of chili-peppers, beans, squash,
onions, and other vegetables, also peaches, from the
Spaniards. To some of the tribes the mesquite tree
is a special gift of the gods. It affords them shade from
the relentless heat of the sun ; it gives them shelter from
the fierce occasional storms of winter ; from its branches
they get firewood; from its beans they make their flour
which gives them mush, bread, tortillas, sugar and
candy, and they also use them for making a drink that
has wonderful thirst-quenching powers on these arid
deserts.
There are two kinds of mesquite — one, the long-pod
mesquite (the Algarobia glandulosa of Torrey, and the
Prospis velutina of later botanists), with pods from four
to six inches long which look something similar to our
common string bean, and the other, the screw-bean
(Prospis pubescens), with clusters of wiry curls, spirals,
or screws. These consist of a hard outer pod, contain-
ing a number of hard little kernels. The pods are sweet,
fairly agreeable to the taste and exceedingly nutritious.
When freshly gathered the pods of both varieties are
buried in pits dug in the moist earth. This removes a
certain " vegetably " flavor from them, and they also
sweat and partially ferment, and this chemical action de-
velops a flavor the Indians enjoy. When dug up they
are spread either on rocks or in large baskets to dry,
after which they are ground into flour from which the
various foods are made. They are often eaten raw,
though to me the taste is far from agreeable.
The Mohaves are great lovers of fish, which they catch
in a variety of ways. They make traps of basketry
very similar to the eel traps used in England in the county
of my birth. These are long, cylindrical arrangements,
closed at one end, but with an enticing bell-mouthed
88 Arizona, the Wonderland
opening at the other. The fish enters, but when he gets
well inside he finds a number of sharp willow ends
pointed toward him over which it seems impossible to
pass. The Mohave also is skilful in the use of the
seine, which he makes like a huge basket spoon of open
work. This he thrusts under the fish, rudely jerking
the latter out of his watery habitat into the boat or
upon the land, to his complete and utter undoing. But
the most ingenious trap of all is composed where the
river bank and sloping beach are just suitable. The In-
dian's keen powers of observation have taught him that
there are certain fish that seem to find their chief en-
joyment in moving along by the bank, " nosing " it, and
ready to investigate, with a woman's curiosity — an In-
dian woman's of course — any hole or aperture that
may seem curious or inviting. A kind of miniature
corral, or stockade, of willows is made, rudely wattled
to hold it together. This is firmly stuck into the beach,
where the water is not too deep (say three or four feet),
in a rude, half -circular shape. A good-sized opening is
left, which can suddenly be closed, however, by a door
made of basket-work, which the fisherman either holds
in his hand or has on the bank close by and handy. He
now prepares a number of small balls of mud and some
kind of food of which the fish are very fond. These
balls are placed in the trap, as bait. In each one of
them a willow twig is thrust, the top of which is well
above the water. Everything is now ready for action.
The Mohave takes his seat and watches. As soon as
he sees the willow-twigs begin to shake, move, wobble,
he knows that a fish has " nosed " into the trap and is
now investigating one of the food balls, and like a flash,
he slips the door into place, the fish is caught, he merely
having to lift it out with his basket spoon when he is
The Indians of Arizona 89
ready. Many a time have I eaten fish caught in this
fashion where the expert white angler failed to get even
a bite. The Mohaves cook their fish either by quick
broiling on the hot coals, or by covering the whole fish
with mud, then placing it in the bed of the fire, raking
hot ashes all over it, and thus allowing it to bake. The
mud is caked hard, and when the fish is taken from the
fire and the mud covering removed, it brings with it the
whole of the scaly covering, revealing the tender, juicy
flesh with all the flavor retained. No method of cook-
ing fish followed by the white man, in my judgment,
equals this. It is the one way that all campers-out
should learn.
To the ordinary white man life would be impossible
under the conditions imposed by Nature upon most of
the Arizona Indians. When one thinks of the barren
areas of the Painted Desert, on the outskirts of which
the Hopis have their homes, perched high on precipitous
mesas; of the wild wastes of the Navaho reservation;
of the wilderness of the Red Rock Country, he can only
wonder at the courage of any people daring to think
they could win subsistence from so inhospitable a land.
Yet the Hopis make corn grow in quantities in appar-
ently dry wastes, where, yet, they have found subsoil
drainage, and Navahos conserve " toh " — water — in
the most impossible spots, while Wallapais, Apaches,
Pimas, and the rest avail themselves of many desert
products to add to their scanty stock of provisions.
Of the varied and picturesque homes of the Arizona
Indians references and descriptions will be found in other
chapters ; of the Hopis and their sky-cities on the mesas of
the Painted Desert; the Apaches in their White Moun-
tain reservation ; the Havasupais in their canyon of rocky
stupendousness glorified by many waterfalls; the Pimas
90 Arizona, the Wonderland
Papagoes, and Maricopas in the Santa Cruz Valley near
the Mission of San Xavier del Bac. But hitherto I have
failed to describe that most picturesque and wonderful
home of the Navahos in the famous Canyon de Chelly.
It is famous, for when the American Army of the West
started to take possession of New Mexico (which then
included what is now Arizona) and California its leaders
believed that this Navaho canyon was a fortress-strong-
hold as inpregnable as Gibraltar. They approached it
with due caution and many misgivings, but soon dis-
covered that, while it was a most rugged and scenic can-
yon, they need not have been so alarmed as to its impreg-
nability. It is more like the popular conception of a can-
yon than even the Grand Canyon. After entering its
mouth at Chin Lee, where the red sandstone walls open
out upon the plain, one penetrates further and deeper into
the cleft, until the walls are several hundreds of feet high,
while their width scarcely increases, rarely becoming more
than a few hundred feet apart. Here Simpson found the
first exploited cliff-dwellings of America, many of which
have since been excavated, and there are two important
Mummy caves. Several miles from its mouth two vast
needles of rock, separated from the main wall, stand out
as sentinels at the entrance to a branch canyon. There
are two of these branches, known respectively as Monu-
ment Canyon and Canyon del Muerto, neither of them
suffering much in comparison with the main canyon in
majesty and sublimity.
Here many Navahos make their homes, cultivating their
peach orchards and patches of corn, and caring for their
flocks of sheep and goats. There are few such homes of
majestic and sublime surroundings in the world, and
already American travelers of the pioneer spirit are visit-
ing it before it becomes too common. One may ride to
The Indians of Arizona 91
it in an automobile, diverting from the main highway at
Gallup, N. M., but no one should attempt the canyon itself
in a machine or without a guide. The safest way is to
place oneself in the hands of M. E. Kirk, the Indian
trader at Chin Lee. He has horses, both for riding and
driving, wagons, and Navaho guides who speak enough
English to be intelligible, and properly outfitted by Mr.
Kirk, the visitor can well spend a week in these three can-
yons of wonder. Two or three days are required to
make the most hasty and cursory trip.
What has the future for the Arizona Indian? It is
hard to tell. The effort is being made to settle him as
an individual land-owner where he can earn a sufficient
living for himself and family. How successful this will
be, and how he will ultimately adjust himself to the new
conditions, no one can foresee. It is certain that as the
white man crowds upon him more and more his tribal
and reservation habits must change. He must either be-
come an integral part of our civilization, or it will not
be long before he will become a memory — a vanished
race.
CHAPTER VII
THE DESTRUCTION OF SIKYATKI AND AWATOBI IN THE
PROVINCE OF TUSAYAN
THERE are many ancient ruins of large size, as well
as smaller ones, in the Province of Tusayan — the Hopi-
land of to-day — but in all matters, except a few details
significant mainly to the scientist and student, they are
very little different from the other ancient ruins of Ari-
zona. To determine, however, some of the mooted
points in which scientists are interested, Dr. J. Walter
Fewkes, of the Smithsonian Institution, determined to
excavate two special ruins in Tusayan. The results of
these excavations were so remarkable that I resolved to
lay the facts before my readers in these pages.
These two ruins were selected because it was pretty
generally believed, both by Indians and whites, that
Sikyatki was an ancient pueblo, abandoned before the
coming of the Spaniards, and that, therefore, it would
show the conditions of life of the pure, unadulterated,
aborigine, while Awatobi was known to have been the
site of a Spanish Mission Church, and under the influ-
ence of the outsiders from about 1540 to 1700, when it
was destroyed. This, with a study of the modern Hopi
pueblos, which have been under Spanish, Mexican and
American influence since 1700, would form three sepa-
rate epochs in Hopi history and thus afford standards of
comparison.
Hopi tradition clearly pointed to Sikyatki as the ruin
92
The Destruction of Awatobi 93
of a destroyed pueblo. The story is somewhat vague,
but such as it is I give it. The people who formed the
original inhabitants of the pueblo undoubtedly came
after the pueblo of Walpi had been established. The
newcomers located on the ridge of the mesa, a few
miles back of Walpi. Quarrels and enmities soon
sprang up between them. They were possibly of a dif-
ferent people, and each claimed cornfields, springs and
wells desired by the other. Matters were brought to a
focus by a son of one of the Sikyatki chiefs dressing up
as a Kat china — a sacred mythological character of the
Hopis — and going to a dance at Walpi. He succeeded
in gaining entrance to the town in this disguised char-
acter, and, during the dance, advanced towards one of
the Walpi maidens, who was a spectator, offering her a
prayer-stick. As the maiden reached out to take it, the
young savage suddenly whipped out a stone knife and
slew her. Immediately, throwing off his disguise, he ran
to a place of safety, taunting his pursuers with his
craftiness and the success of his bloody ruse. This so
infuriated the Walpians that, at a council, they decided
then and there to end the quarrel, and waiting until the
Sikyatkians were at work in their fields, they fell upon
and slew them, and then went up to the mesa and de-
stroyed the town. Many of the women and girls were
saved, however, and their descendants now form cer-
tain clans, or families, in the modern Walpi.
The excavation at Sikyatki satisfied every expecta-
tion. Dr. Fewkes found a cemetery located on each of
three sides of the ruins, and these yielded a large num-
ber of fine pieces of mortuary pottery and other speci-
mens of importance. No sign of Spanish influence of
any kind was found.
The ruins of Awatobi were then attacked. The
94 Arizona, the Wonderland
Navahos had long called this place Talli-Hogan — the
singing house — and the Hopis had many stories to tell
of its people and the reason for their destruction. It
appears that when the Ensign Tobar, Coronado's lieu-
tenant, came from Zuni to spy out the land, he and his
soldiers came to Awatobi, first of all the Hopi towns.
The inhabitants tried to keep them from entering, and
the medicine-men sprinkled lines of sacred meal across
the trail, even as they do to-day when they wish to
signify that there is no admittance — the trail is closed.
But the conquistadores of those days were no more used
to paying attention to the wishes of the weaker than
they are to-day, so the meal was disregarded, and in the
fight that ensued, though no one was killed, the Awato-
bians suffered severe punishment. They then bowed
their necks to the yoke of the conqueror, who appears
to have treated them fairly well for their submission.
The other towns of the Hopi, however, while yielding
to the superior force of the Spaniards, hated them with
a fierce hatred, and, consequently, when the Awatobians
showed complacency when the Spaniards built a church
there (even though they built at two other Hopi vil-
lages), the medicine-men determined it was time to pun-
ish them severely. Several leaders of the different vil-
lages got together, and when they learned that on a cer-
tain date all the men would be engaged in religious cere-
monials of some kind in their respective kivas, they
planned that they would make an attack at that time.
I have heard the story told several times by different
Hopis, and while there are many variations, in the main
facts from now on they generally agree. The following
is from Dr. Fewkes' record of the story of Walpi as
told by Saliko, the mother of the former snake-priest of
Walpi:
,
The Destruction of Awatobi 95
" It was then arranged that in four days large bands from all the
other villages should prepare themselves, and assemble at a spring
not far from Awatobi. A long while before this, when the Spaniards
lived there, they had built a wall on the side of the village that needed
protection and in this wall was a great strong door. Tapolo pro-
posed that the assailants should come before dawn, and he would
be at this door ready to admit them, and under this compact he re-
turned to his village. During the fourth night after this, as agreed
upon, the various bands assembled at the deep gulch spring, and every
man carried, besides his weapons, a cedar-bark torch and a bundle
of greasewood. Just before dawn they moved silently up to the
mesa summit, and, going directly to the east side of the village, they
entered the gate, which opened as they approached. In one of the
courts was a large kiva, and in it were a number of men engaged
in sorcerer's rites. The assailants at once made for the kiva, and
plucking up the ladder, they stood around the hatchway, shooting
arrows down among the entrapped occupants. In the numerous
cooking-pits fire had been maintained through the night for the
preparation of food for a feast on the appointed morning, and from
these they lighted their torches. Great numbers of these and the
bundles of greasewood being set on fire, they were cast down the
hatchway, and firewood from stacks upon the house terraces were
also thrown into the kiva. The red peppers for which Awatobi was
famous were hanging in thick clusters along the fronts of the houses,
and these they crushed in their hands and flung upon the blaz-
ing fire in the kiva to further torment their burning occupants.
After this, all who were capable of moving were compelled to
travel or drag themselves until they came to the sandhills of
Mashongnavi, and there the final disposition of the prisoners was
made."
One can imagine how absolutely complete the
slaughter was, caught like rats in a trap from which
there was no escape, suffocated to death by the burning
brush and wood, the torture added to by the fumes from
the burning red peppers.
Of course none but the women and children escaped,
and the former were soon amalgamated with the other
clans by marriage, or rather, as " families " or " clans "
of the Pueblos are formed on the maternal side, these
women became the founders of their clans, the descend-
96 Arizona, the Wonderland
ants of which now live in Walpi, Oraibi, Mashongnavi
and other of the Hopi villages.
Here, then, was the tradition. What would excava-
tions reveal? According to Vetancurt, the population
in 1680 was about eight hundred, and as the massacre
occurred in 1700, or thereabouts, it must have been
about the same at that dread time.
When the ruins were dug into in the eastern section
almost every spadeful removed gave evidence of a great
conflagration. That part of the pueblo near to the mis-
sion was especially affected. Hardly a single object
was found that had not been charred. Many of the
beams of the roofs were completely burned and nothing
but the ashes remained under the fallen-in debris, while
in other places they were charred on their surfaces.
Some rooms were found completely filled with ashes and
scoriae, while the walls were cracked as if with intense
heat.
One most significant fact was revealed. Had plunder
or the vengeance of outsiders been the motive of the
town's destruction, all stores of corn, etc., undoubtedly
would have been removed either before or after the at-
tack, and before the flames were allowed to spread.
But the excavation disclosed storage chambers, where
the ears of corn were stacked in piles, just as it can be
found in any of the storage rooms of the other pueblos
to-day, and while charred, thousands of them are in a
perfect state of preservation.
The mission church was dismantled and a few stand-
ing walls in sad ruins are all that remain of this splendid
effort of the Franciscans to missionize the heathen of
Awatobi. Several nights when I have laid in my
blankets, thinking over this massacre of a whole popula-
tion, undoubtedly between five hundred and six hundred
The Destruction of Awatobi 97
in number, mainly because they were tolerant of the
presence of the " long-gowns," who came to subvert the
ancient religion of Tusayan, I have asked myself if there
is anything that has ever worked more disaster to the
sons of men than a tampering with or an attempt to
force changes in their religious belief. The instinctive
feeling of all men, even primitive savages in Fiji, or the
more advanced heathen of Hopi, aye, and the most cul-
tured and progressive of the highest of the civilized
races, is expressed in the brusque " Hands Off! " when
their religious beliefs are attacked.
Arizona claims the honor of being the home of the
first town the whole male population of which suffered
martyrdom because of their toleration of those who
brought to them the Christian faith as taught by the
Roman Catholic Church.
As tradition had it that the hostiles entered the pueblo
at the eastern gate, which was not far from the mission,
Dr. Fewkes sought for evidences of a fight or massacre
there. He found many skulls and other bones piled to-
gether in wildest confusion. " The earth was literally
filled with bones," he says, "evidently hastily placed
there or left where the dead fell. These bodies were
not buried with pious care, for there were no frag-
ments of mortuary pottery, or other indications of burial
objects. Many of the skulls were broken, some pierced
with sharp implements."
Thus the tradition seems to be clearly indicated, and
in time to come pious and good Christians will un-
doubtedly build some kind of a memorial in sacred
memory of these aboriginal semi-believers who paid
with their lives for what they can scarce be said to have
understood, but of which they were willing to learn fur-
ther.
CHAPTER VIII
THE GRAND CANYON
A BOOK on Arizona without a chapter on the Grand
Canyon would indeed be the veritable Hamlet with the
chief character left out. For the Grand Canyon is not
only the most noted and distinctive scenic feature of
Arizona, but of the North American Continent. It
stands alone in its stupendous vastness, its wondrous
coloring, its fascinating and alluring mysteries, its pro-
found abysses, and its unique and incomparable forma-
tions.
The Santa Fe Railway has made it easily accessible.
One may take his seat — aye, the most delicate of trans-
continental travelers may take her Pullman drawing-
room, in Chicago, and ride direct to El Tovar, the per-
fect Fred Harvey hotel on the rim of the Canyon — and
without a moment's weariness, ennui or deprivation of
any accustomed luxury, gaze upon this wonderland of
form, color and mystery.
Let Zane Grey describe a sunset there for you:
"About time for the sun to set, I strolled along the rim wall
to look into the Canyon. I was beginning to feel something of its
character and had growing impressions. Dark purple smoke veiled
the clefts deep down between the mesas. I walked along to where
points of cliff ran out like capes and peninsulas all seamed, cracked,
wrinkled, scarred and yellow with age, with shattered, toppling ruins
of rocks ready at a touch to go thundering down. I could not resist
the temptation to crawl out to the farthest point, even though I shud-
dered over the yard wide ridges, and when once seated on a bare
promontory, two hundred feet from the regular rim wall, I felt
isolated, marooned.
98
The Grand Canyon 99
"The sun a liquid red globe, had just touched its under side to the
pink cliffs of Utah and fired a crimson flood of light over the won-
derland mountains, plateaus, escarpments, mesas, domes and turrets
of the gorge. The rim wall of Powell's Plateau was a thin streak
of fire, the timber above like grass of gold, and the long slopes be-
low shaded from bright to dark. Point Sublime, bold and bare,
ran out toward the plateau, jealously reaching for the sun. The
Temple of Vishnu lay bathed in vapory shading clouds, and the
Shinumo Altar shone with rays of glory.
" The beginning of the wondrous transformation, the dropping of
the day's curtain, was for me a rare and perfect moment. As the
golden splendor of sunset sought out a peak or mesa or escarpment,
I gave it a name to suit my fancy; and as flushing, fading, its glory
changed, sometimes I rechristened it. Jupiter's Chariot, brazen-
wheeled, stood ready to roll into the clouds. Semiramis's Bed, all
gold, shone from a Tower of Babylon. Castor and Pollux clasped
hands over a Stygian river. The Spur of Doom, a mountain shaft
as red as hell, and inaccessible, insurmountable, lured with a strange
light. Dusk — a bold black dome — was shrouded by the shadow of
a giant mesa. The Star of Bethlehem glittered from the brow of
Point Sublime. The Wraith, fleecy, feathered curtain of mist, floated
down among the ruins of castles and palaces like the ghost of a
goddess. Vales of Twilight, dim, dark ravines, mystic homes of
specters, led into the awful Valley of the Shadow, clothed in purple
night.
" The last rosy gleam faded from the tip of Point Sublime ; and as
if that were a signal, in all the clefts and canyons below, purple,
shadowy clouds marshaled their forces and began to sweep upon the
battlements, to swing colossal wings into amphitheaters where gods
might have warred, slowly to enclose the magical sentinels. Night
intervened, and a moving, changing, silent chaos pulsated under the
bright stars."
That is a vivid and illuminating description. Fine
writing! some critic may exclaim. Certainly it is. It
is the effort of the mind, aye, the soul, to express its
deep emotions under the powerful influence of the Can-
yon, and no man or woman of feeling ever escapes the
impulse, the strong desire to express what each one
knows is inexpressible — the Canyon's power over the
man is beyond the man's power to formulate into words.
Yet Zane Grey has made a successful stagger at
100 Arizona, the Wonderland
it, that I can appreciate, for I think I have read more
attempts than most men, and know how far short of
the reality, without exception, they all come. So now
I will ask Mr. Grey to give us his impressions of sun-
rise. And let those who question its truthfulness go out
to some such spot as he sat upon and read it word for
word, line by line, as a sunrise is illuminating the Can-
yon at his feet:
" The awf ulness of sudden death and the glory of heaven stunned
me ! The thing that had been mystery at twilight, lay clear, pure,
open in the rosy hue of dawn. Out of the gates of the morning
poured a light which glorified the palaces and pyramids, purged and
purified the afternoon's inscrutable clefts, swept away the shadows
of the mesas, and bathed that broad, deep world of mighty mountains,
stately spars of rock, sculptured cathedrals, and alabaster terraces in
an artist's dream of color. A pearl from heaven had burst, flinging
its heart of fire into this chasm. A stream of opal flowed out of the
sun, to touch each peak, mesa, dome, parapet, temple and tower,
cliff and cleft into the new-born life of another day.
" I sat there for a long time and knew that every second the scene
changed, yet I could not tell how. I knew I sat high over a hole
of broken, splintered, barren mountains; I knew I could see a hun-
dred miles of the length of it, and eighteen miles of the width of it,
and a mile of the depth of it, and the shafts and rays of rose light
on a million glancing, many hued surfaces at once; but that knowl-
edge was no help to me. I repeated a lot of meaningless superlatives
to myself, and I found words inadequate and superfluous. The spec-
tacle was too elusive and too great. It was life and death, heaven
and hell."
So much for description.
How the Canyon came into existence is the problem
of the geologists. There are those who affirm they
know. The more scientific and discreet present their
theories with becoming diffidence. A stupendous mono-
graph, fascinating as a novel, and containing some of
the prose poems of the English language was written by
Captain Clarence E. Button upon its geological history.
The Grand Canyon of Arizona.
The Grand Canyon 101
Later geologists have written often and much about it,
the last and best paper being by L. F. Noble, and en-
titled The Shinumo Quadrangle,, Grand Canyon Dis-
trict, Arizona. Those really interested should read both
these learned papers. He will therein find that the
geologists regard corrasion, as the chief, but by no
means the only, agent of the Canyon's creation. By
corrasion is meant the erosive force of water, etc., exer-
cised while the land eroded is being uplifted, slowly
or rapidly, from its primeval level. It is erosion, but
erosion plus, and while volcanic crackings, faultings,
flexuring and warpings of the earth's surface have
helped, and in some cases, undoubtedly, aided in de-
termining the course of the great river, the chief agent
was the river itself exercising its cutting power as the
continent was slowly uplifted from the primeval ocean.
The first scientific explorer of the Canyon was Major
John Wesley Powell, the one-armed hero of Shiloh, who,
in two voyages extending from 1869 to 1872 went from
Green River, Wyoming, to the Grand Wash, below the
Canyon. As a memorial to this daring adventurer and
his companions Congress appropriated a sufficient sum
of money for a bronze tablet, which was placed upon a
substantial base on Maricopa Point.
Others have since made the trip, and the Kolb
Brothers, at their studio, at the head of the Bright
Angel Trail, give daily lectures illustrated by moving
pictures which they made of their own perilous expe-
riences in emulating Major Powell. Ellsworth Kolb's
book descriptive of his and his brother's adventures is a
fitting companion to the work of the earlier explorer.
There are several trails into the Grand Canyon, and
several hotels for the accommodation of guests. The
principal trail and the chief hotels are owned and oper-
102 Arizona, the Wonderland
ated by Fred Harvey, a subsidiary corporation of the
Santa Fe Railway, which also operates all the hotels,
eating-houses, dining-cars, news-stands and curio stores
upon the whole system. The name has become synony-
mous in the minds of travelers with super par excellence
in service, the best the market affords upon the tables,
at prices commensurate with the service rendered. The
situation at the Grand Canyon is somewhat unique.
Practically all the water used, even for laundry, bathing
and every other purpose, has to be hauled a distance of
over a hundred miles. This is a tremendous expense,
and would add materially to the difficulty of rendering
acceptable service to exacting tourists were it not ac-
complished by the system and resources of a great rail-
way organization. To keep horses, mules, carriages,
tallyhos, automobiles in number sufficient for a large in-
pouring of visitors is also a problem to task the powers
of any other than a great corporation. Yet for years
Fred Harvey has met all demands in an admirable man-
ner, so as to call forth unstinted praise from the really
discerning and appreciative traveler. Hotel El Tovar is
a perfectly conducted hotel of the first class. Bright
Angel Hotel is under the same management, but at more
moderate rates, with a Fred Harvey cafe, where meals
are served a la carte.
At the expense of many thousands of dollars the Santa
Fe has constructed a fine rim road to Hermit's Rest,
seven and a half miles to the west from El Tovar, and
which affords outlooks at Hopi and Mohave Points in
passing. The Rest is at the head of Hermit Trail. It
is a striking cave-home in the cliffs, but of majestic
proportions. The rough and unhewn rocks have been
cunningly put into place so that from the exterior one
can scarce tell where cliff ends and building begins.
The Grand Canyon 103
But when you enter the doorway a surprise awaits you,
no matter where you have traveled or what you have
seen, for you enter a room, forty-five feet wide and
eighteen feet high which is one vast cave, hollowed out
of the wall, shaped like a dome cut in half, the further
base of which is a fireplace, the like of which must have
warmed the toes of the giant Vikings when they reached
Walhalla. Here on cold, blustering snowy days, which
one now and again encounters in winter on the Canyon's
rim, one may toast his whole body to his heart's content,
and not feel that he is shielding the fire from his fel-
low guests. Then, when ready, he starts for the new
Hermit Trail. I have no intention of describing it here.
Suffice it to say it is seven and a half miles of the most
perfectly engineered and constructed trail in the whole
Canyon — and I know every trail there is in it — and it
gives one scenes of incomparable grandeur all the way
down to Hermit Camp, where tent-houses are provided
for the stay over night. Then it is another mile and a
half over an easy trail to the river, where, on the sand
or boulders at the mouth of Hermit Creek, one may sit
and ponder over the history and mystery of this stupen-
dous Canyon, which for countless ages will remain one
of the greatest attractions for man upon the face of the
earth.
CHAPTER IX
THE Petrified Forests always have been a source of
great attraction ever since they were first described.
The years do not dim their fascination to those who have
not yet been privileged to see them. And the more one
understands of them, too, the greater is the curiosity and
interest they arouse.
There are four areas in which a vast number of logs
appear, and these are generally referred to as separate
forests. In no case are logs or trunks found standing.
They are invariably prostrate, and always split across
in irregular lengths, varying from a foot or so to five,
six, eight and even ten feet sections, almost as though
they had been deliberately felled and sawn into varying
lengths, either for lumber or the making of firewood.
Another remarkable fact: never is a branch of one of
the trees found attached to the trunk, and no trees have
the topmost section where the trunk tapers to the thick-
ness of some of the branches. If branches are found,
they are away from the trunks, half a mile, a mile, or
even more, and then, generally, they are in clusters, or
rude masses " huddled " together. The chief fact that
immediately arrests the attention of all observers is the
brilliant, vivid, and wonderfully harmonious coloring
that most of the blocks possess. They surpass the most
brilliantly colored marble or onyx, and yet the colors
104
The Petrified Forests 105
are neither bizarre nor obnoxiously glaring. They
harmonize and give great delight to the most critical
eye. Then, too, the observant will see that they were
originally buried in a mass of dirty and impure sandstone
and different colored sands.
Here, then, are the main facts that any stranger with
seeing eyes will observe. The questions that then arise
are fascinating in the extreme, some of them hard to
answer, and others, almost obvious. I have read every
theory I have been able to find, and listened to every
explanation offered in my presence, either by scientist or
layman. I am not able to say whether the theory and
explanations I am now about to offer are original or
not. For thirty years the Forests have attracted and
allured me. My visits have been many, and my hours
of thought upon the various phenomena considerable.
Let me present a series of pictures which may help
explain these Forests. The first picture is a forest of
tall, stately, beautiful cone-bearing trees, somewhat
similar to the small and cultivated Norfolk Island pine.
These, however, are sixty, eighty, a hundred, and even,
perhaps, a hundred and fifty feet in height, and with
spreading bases, from four to twelve and more feet
in diameter. The scientists of to-day call these trees
Araucarioxylon arizonicum. They are now extinct.
During the time of their growth here, they were also in
existence in the east-central parts of the United States,
where the remains of some of their associates have been
found in other cone-bearing trees, tree ferns, cycads, and
gigantic horsetails.
Rain must have been abundant in those days, or these
trees could not have attained such height.
Now, however, let us endeavor to reconstruct, in im-
agination, the various changes that the centuries have
106 Arizona, the Wonderland
seen in the life-history of these early arboreal residents
upon the earth.
To the mind of the ordinary reader and thinker it
would be easy and, indeed, almost natural to picture
grasses, ferns, shrubs, and flowers growing under these
trees; and to imagine herds of gentle deer, shy antelope
or stately elk moving to and fro through the wide park-
like expanses. One might go further and dream of
gigantic elephants, mastodons, tigers, lions and other
species of the carnivora ; and it would be easy to see the
flying to and fro of birds of all shades and colors of
plumage, and to contemplate their nesting, mating and
rearing of young in the branches, and to hear their sweet
warblings, piercing calls, or flute-like pipings one to an-
other. The scene would be one of peace; everything as
happy and serene as an idyllic landscape.
Indeed, this was the picture I had made of the pre-
historic forest, until my scientific friends reminded me
of the fact that few of the elements of my imaginary
landscape were in existence in Triassic times. For, so
far as is known, the earliest birds to appear upon the
earth did not come until Jurassic times, and no definite
evidence of grasses has been found in beds of the rocks
so old as the Trias. The Angiosperms, among which
are palms and hardwood trees, did not come into exist-
ence before the late Jurassic, while such types of ani-
mals as deer, antelope, elk, elephants, mastodons, tigers,
and lions do not antedate the Cretaceous, and some of
them did not appear until Tertiary times.
Hence science here checks the imagination. It puts
the stern rein of reality upon the fly-away horses of the
mind and brings them back resolutely to gaze upon a
world where, while trees existed — those I have pic-
tured— there were no grasses, flowers, or shrubs, no
The Petrified Forests 107
birds and no animals of the types suggested. How dif-
ferent from the landscape of our time, and how long it
took the earth to prepare for the coming of man !
Upon this scene of restricted beauty we gaze. Yet
it is not to remain before us too long. A new picture
appears. The rains begin to descend. At first the
storm is nothing out of the usual, but as the days pro-
gress it becomes torrential. The rain pours down, and
as the biblical narrator describes it prior to the flood —
" all the fountains of the great deep were broken up, and
the windows of heaven were opened." Mountains sur-
round this forest of ours, and many great trees grow
upon their slopes, but as the rain falls, and the winds
and storms arise, they sway to and fro, and one after
another, with resounding crashes that, however, there
are none to hear, the trees fall into the surging and
swirling waters at their feet. The waters ascend higher
and higher, until the lighter trees are carried upon their
surface; then the larger ones. As the flood increases
in fury more trees fall and are carried along by what
has now become raging torrents. Seeking their level,
the waters dash down ravines, around curves and points,
promontories and islands, carrying the trees with them.
Rolling, pitching, tossing their branches high in air,
first one, then another branch is lopped off. Trunk rubs
against trunk with such irresistible fury that great
branches, as large around as a man's body, are swept
off the parent trunk as though they are but pipe-stems.
On they dash and crash until partial quiet is reached in
the bed of a newly-created or vastly-enlarged lake,
which seems especially prepared to receive them.
Pushed along by each other, blown along by the wind,
they are spread over the whole area of the lake; in
places the wind and fierce currents pile them up, hig-
108 Arizona, the Wonderland
gledy-piggledy, one above another. The piles of
branches are carried off in entirely independent fashion,
some to lodge here, some there, according to the wind
or water forces that control them.
At last the storm ceases, and slowly the forbidding
and lowering clouds sail away. But the mountain sides
are denuded, the forest area is washed clean, and the
beauty of the landscape we first saw is gone. Yet we
feel as if this fierce rainstorm is but the warning, the
precursor, of other storms hatching in Nature's secret
recesses. Pictures of later storms appear in rapid suc-
cession. These storms wash away much of the earth
that covers the rugged rocks of which the mountains
are formed. Some of these rocks are charged with
minerals — iron, copper, manganese, etc. Exposed to
the air they decompose and rust, or oxidize. The rain
washes down into the log-laden lake small quantities of
these rusts, which color the water in every direction,
in something like the same fashion as the colors float on
the surface of the tub of the marbler, ere he takes
them up on his paper. In the mountains, too, there are
quantities of silica, and the lake water possessing alka-
line properties, namely, soda and potash, when this
silica is washed down, it becomes soluble.
Now, our imagination must be stimulated to see
secret processes. By the wonderful, but silent, forces
of Nature, the wood fibre inside and outside the fallen
trunks is carried away, molecule by molecule, and the
colored solution substitutes therefor a particle of solid
silica, richly colored in the form called chalcedony.
This process continues for a year, a hundred years, a
thousand, for aught we know — anyhow until all the
wood molecules are displaced by the harder molecules
of silica colored by the oxidized minerals.
The Petrified Forests 109
But, during the time this change in the trees has been
in process, the earth's crust also has been active. Never
at rest, expanding and contracting, rising and lower-
ing, sometimes quietly and slowly, at other times, per-
haps, violently and rapidly, the crustal movements are
constant. In due time the tree-strewn area is so low-
ered that it becomes the bed of a great inland sea.
Slowly the deposition of rocky matter takes place and
the trees are buried at the bottom of this great mesozoic
sea. How large an area this sea covered, how far east,
west, north and south it extended it is hard to tell, but
it was a vast sea. Nor can we determine, in years, how
long it existed. But it may have extended as far as
•where the Missouri River now flows eastward, and cor-
respondingly in other directions. There was no vast
range of snow-clad peaks that we now call the Rocky
Mountains. That range had not yet been thrust up-
wards. Its area, possibly, was covered with this great
sea.
In the course of time, very little rain fell, and the
water of this sea began to evaporate with great rapid-
ity. Then it was that the beds of gypsum and salts
found all over this western heart of the United States
of to-day were deposited. Where exposed by denuda-
tion these gypsum beds are found to be very thick —
fifty feet or more — and remarkably pure and white.
From these facts the geologists reason that the area
of deposition was remote from streams that could bring
sand and mud into the sea, and also that the deposi-
tion took place at a time of scant rainfall.
It was some time after this that the region covered
now by the Rocky Mountains was slowly lifted up and
became " a low, nearly level country, covered with
tropical vegetation, with many wide, shallow streams
110 Arizona, the Wonderland
and swampy areas.1 There had come into existence
the giant flying reptiles, the monstrous pterodactyls,
a flying dragon measuring eighteen feet from tip to
tip of its wings, of which the scientists write:
" On the shores of this ancient sea, lived equally strange beasts
and birds of types that have long been extinct, and over its water
sailed great flying dragons — the pterodactyls. The animals of that
day were strikingly different from those of the present. The birds,
unlike any now living, had jaws armed with teeth. The monarchs of
the air then were not birds but flying reptiles, whose fore limbs had
been modified into wings by the enormous elongation of fingers be-
tween which stretched thin membranes like the wings of a bat.
These flying dragons, some of which had a stretch of wing of
eighteen feet, were carnivorous; they were animated engines of de-
struction that somewhat forcibly suggest the modern war airplanes,
of which they were in a sense the prototypes."
When the uplift took place and the marshy swamps
came into existence, the dinosaurs appeared.
" Some of these were the largest land animals that ever walked
the earth, and some were very diminutive. They differed greatly in
size, shape, structure, and habits. Some were plant eaters ; others
fed on flesh. Some walked on four feet; others with small, weak
fore limbs walked entirely upon the strongly developed hind legs.
Some had reptile-like feet; others were bird footed. Some had toes
provided with long, sharp claws ; others had flattened hoof-like nails.
There were dinosaurs with small heads and others with large heads.
Some were large and cumbersome; others were small, light, and
graceful and so much resembled birds in their structure that only
the skilled anatomist can distinguish their remains. Some of enor-
mous size were clad in coats of bony armor, which gave them
a most bizarre appearance.
"The largest herbivorous or plant-eating dinosaur whose fossil
remains have been found in Como Bluff was the huge Brontosaurus,
or thunder lizard, as it was called by Prof. Marsh. It was seventy
feet long, stood sixteen feet high at the hips, and had a long tail,
an equally long neck, and a head that was only a little larger than
that of a horse. The weight of such a creature has been variously
1 Guide Book of the Western United States, Part B., Overland
Route, p. 52, U. S. Geological Survey, 1915.
The Petrified Forests 111
estimated at eighteen to twenty tons. This animal doubtless lived on
the luxuriant tropical vegetation, but how its enormous bulk could
be sustained by such food as could pass through its ridiculously
small mouth has caused much wonder. It is not certain whether
the name thunder lizard was given to it because of its size or because
of the large sum — over $10,000 — which Prof. Marsh spent in ex-
cavating and preparing it.
" Some dinosaurs that are even larger than the brontosaur have
been found more recently. A Diplodocus now in the Carnegie
Museum in Pittsburgh had the enormous length of eighty-four and
one-half feet.
" One of the most striking of the vegetarians of this period was
the Stegosaurus, or plated lizard, so named because of the bony
plates and spines with which its back was adorned. Some of these
plates, although very thin, were from two to three feet in diameter.
They were held in upright position in two parallel rows on each
side of the middle region of the back, extending from the base of
the skull well down on the tail, the tip of which was armed with two
pairs of long bony spines. In some individuals these spines were
over three feet in length. All the plates and spines during life
were covered by a thick, horny skin. The stegosaurs were about
twenty feet long and stood about ten feet high at the hips. The
head was extremely small and lizard-like in shape, with a small
brain, large eyes, and nostrils that indicate a considerable power of
smell. The great disproportion in length between the fore and hind
legs, the small pointed head, and the skin ornaments of plates and
spines, made it so ugly that it may not have required other means
of protection. Some passive protection, through repulsive ugliness
or otherwise, seems to have been necessary, for its ludicrously di-
minutive brain suggests a mentality insufficient for conscious efforts
at self-preservation. The want of brain capacity was compensated
to some extent by an enlargement of the spinal cord near the hips
that was about ten times as large as the brain.
" The life of these peaceable plant-feeding animals, however, was
not always serene, for there lived at the same time dinosaurs whose
powerful jaws armed with -long, sharp teeth indicate that their food
was flesh. These animals are called allosaurs. That they fed upon
large brontosaurs and smaller animals of their kind is indicated by
the discovery of teeth of the carnivorus species together with the
bones of their herbivorus contemporaries and of a skeleton of one
of the herbivorous dinosaurs with bones scarred with tooth marks
and grooves corresponding exactly to the sharp, pointed teeth of the
allosaurs. The allosaur was a most powerful animal, and skeletons
over twenty feet long have been found. The large bones of the
112 Arizona, the Wonderland
limbs were hollow, as were many other parts of the skeleton, this
structure affording greater power of rapid movement. The feet,
were armed with long, sharp claws, especially the fore feet, which
were well adapted for catching and holding prey or for tearing and
rending skin and flesh."
It was in this mesozic sea that the vast deposits of
Jurassic and Cretaceous deposits were made which sank
the trees of our forest lower and lower. Stratum after
stratum was deposited. Deeper and deeper the forest
was buried. Would it ever again see the light of day?
Sometimes it seemed as if it would, for, uplift and sub-
sidence of the great area were in successive operation
several times, as the erosion of the strata clearly reveal.
Yet deeper and deeper the buried trees are thrust, until
fully ten thousand feet of strata cover them, and it would
seem that never again will they be uncovered.
But now a new epoch dawns. The uplifts are steady
and continuous — slow perhaps, yet persistent. The
Rocky Mountains are born. The great continental area
is slowly drained of its waters and the Grand Canyon
of the Colorado is created, through which flows the
Colorado River. Centuries pass, as we watch, and
storm and frost, heat and cold, wind and chemical ac-
tion, all unite to cut down the rocky surfaces of the
region. The river carries away millions of tons of
sand, silt, and small rocks, which are washed into its
channel by the torrential rains. The inland sea dis-
appears entirely, and its bed slowly arises to great
height. The degradation and denudation never cease
during century after century. As the uplift continues
it appears to " bulge " upwards in the center of the
region, as if a huge fist were thrusting up the mass from
below, and the. earth's crust falls off in irregular slopes
from this central upthrust. Years, centuries, roll by
The Petrified Forests 113
as days, and every day sees the river carrying away
its burden of rocky debris, sand, silt, and pebbles.
At last the major portion of the rock strata formed
in the bed of the inland sea disappears, and we see,
slowly emerging from the repeated washings and scour-
ings of the surface, the logs of the trees that were sub-
merged in the storms of the centuries long-passed. One
after another they come into view — but how changed !
No longer are they wood. They have become solid
stone of many and various colors. The long trunks
are split into sections, and lie in irregular fashion, as
we saw them when they came floating down into the
newly-made lake of long ago.
And here in comparatively recent times man discov-
ered them and ever since has found them objects of his
interest, study or exploitation. One firm in Sioux Falls,
South Dakota, removed many carloads of the logs,
sawed them into sections and polished them so as to
reveal the marvelous colorings. These they made into
fireplaces, table tops and other useful, ornamental and
decorative articles, which have been exhibited for many
years at the various expositions throughout the country.
Then a Denver firm began the crushing of the logs to
make wheels for abrasive purposes, as a substitute for
corundum and emery. This latter vandalism so aroused
the thoughtful and public-spirited men of Arizona that
they memorialized Congress to set the whole of the
Petrified Forest area apart as a National Monument.
This was done by President Roosevelt, Dec. 8, 1906.
The boundaries were then more carefully studied by
Dr. George P. Merrill, in 1911, after the U. S. Geo-
logical Survey had made a map of the area originally
set apart, and he showed that the limits of the monu-
ment reserve could be reduced from ninety to forty
114 Arizona, the Wonderland
and one-half square miles, which President Taft imme-
diately did, by proclamation issued in August, 1911.
The location and names of the petrified wood de-
posits are as follows : The first forest is about six miles
south of Adamana, a small station on the main line of
the Santa Fe Railway. The second forest is between
two and three miles south and a little east of the first;
the third, or Chalcedony Park, some thirteen miles south
and a little west of Adamana, while the fourth, or Rain-
bow Forest, is two miles northwest of the third. All
are easily accessible, and he is unwise who does not
give himself the privilege and pleasure of seeing all of
them, for each has distinctive features not possessed by
the others. An easy way to accomplish all that is de-
sired is to visit the first and second forests, including
the Natural Bridge, and then drive on to the third for-
est and camp there over night, thus giving a second
full day for the exploration of Chalcedony Park and
Rainbow Forest and the return to Adamana.
The first and Rainbow forests are peculiarly inter-
esting in that no continuous log sections can be found
here, as occur in the second and third forests. While
in all the deposits the trees are split into sections, in
the second and third forests the sections remain to-
gether as if just separated by the saw, so that one can
measure the length of the entire tree. But this is im-
possible at the first and fourth forests. All the sec-
tions are separated and scattered in wild confusion.
The reason is not far to seek. When the bed of the
prehistoric lake was exposed, in which these logs rested,
certain positions of it eroded away faster than others.
As the eroded material was washed off and conveyed by
the streams to the Grand Canyon, there to be carried
by the Colorado River into the Gulf of California, the
The Petrified Forests 115
petrified logs appeared in sight. As the washing down
continued, the logs would become entirely uncovered,
and if they were exposed on the face of a bluff, would
soon become dislodged and roll down the slope to the
level beneath.
This is what made the scattering of the logs in the
first and fourth forests. The erosion of the second and
third forests, which lie at a higher elevation, however,
has not proceeded far enough to cause this scattering,
hence one can here see the vast number and enormous
size of the trees after their processes of burial, silicifica-
tion, and resurrection.
The scattering of the logs in the first and fourth for-
ests is not without its compensation. The exposure to
the air and brilliant Arizona sunlight and the polishing
processes of the wind-blown sand have materially
heightened the colors, and one's eyes are literally daz-
zled by the richest of yellows, purples, reds, with an in-
finite variety of shades which tone down to the most
delicate tints imaginable. Especially after a rain are
these colors made more vivid and striking, and on two
or three occasions I have purposely ridden out from
Adamana in a rain-storm in order to get the enhance-
ment of the color effects by the water.
Where erosion has taken place the most the more
fantastic and peculiar are the shapes and forms assumed
by the bluffs that remain. Here and there detached
columns, or pinnacles, crowned by some harder ma-
terial than the surrounding area, stand in lonesome,
quaint, odd, and fantastic shapes. The Eagle's Head
is one of these freaks of erosion. It occurs in the first
forest.
It is also in this forest that the Petrified Bridge is
to be found. This is a log lying on the edge of a
116 Arizona, the Wonderland
mesa, about half- a mile to the east of the main de-
posits. The root portion. and upper end of this tree
rest in the sandstone capping of the mesa, while the
central portion of the supporting rock and earth have
been washed away, leaving the tree, an agatized bridge
spanning the head of a short ravine for some fifty feet.
The total length of the exposed tree is one hundred
and eleven feet, the roots resting on a solid ledge for
about four feet, with about sixty feet of the upper por-
tion on the other side of the chasm, forty-four feet be-
ing the length of the bridge portion. As the top of
the tree is missing it is impossible to do more than
estimate the entire original length. It has been vari-
ously stated as from one hundred and twenty-five to
one hundred and forty feet.
The bridge undoubtedly was formed as follows : The
tree was embedded in the sandstone which covered the
entire region. This covering has been eroded away, and
the level of the whole country, except this small mesa,
lowered. The tree happened to be near the edge of the
bluff, or escarpment, and as the erosive forces continued
their operations it was slowly uncovered. The mesa
slopes somewhat towards the edge where the tree lies,
and when it rains the water flows towards and over the
tree, and, carrying with it sand and other rock debris,
each storm aided in washing away more of the sand-
stone that covered it. At length the tree, being more
solid than the material in which it was embedded, acted
as a dam against the rain and flood waters, and this
standing water finally disintegrated the sandstone so that
it could flow through underneath the trunk. A hole
once formed, no matter how small, the erosion was sure
to continue until the result was attained we find exist-
ent to-day. The canyon is now twenty feet deep below
The Petrified Forests 117
the tree, and to prevent the possibility of the " bridge "
falling, two piers have been built under it.
It is interesting to note that there is another forest
of silicified wood not included in this National Monu-
ment. It was originally discovered by Lieut. C. W.
Whipple, in 1853, when exploring for a railroad route
to the Pacific. Nearly thirty years ago, when that por-
tion of the Santa Fe system that traverses Arizona was
known as the Atlantic and Pacific, and it had fallen upon
evil days, financially, I was riding on a freight train
(they were then few and far between), and the engineer
and fireman, and, occasionally, the conductor, would
chat with me about the wonders along the line. I had
a copy of Wheeler's Report with me, and when I read
from it the following, the engineer quite excitedly ex-
claimed : " I know that place. It's not far from Car-
rizo. Let's go out and see it," and, to my amazement,
the train was stopped, and we tramped over the mesa
and there found the deposit of petrified trees exactly
as described. I afterwards secured a log from this de-
posit, weighing some three hundred pounds, and it now
stands on my lawn in Pasadena, California. The quo-
tation from Wheeler is as follows:
"Dec. 2, 1853. Quite a forest of petrified trees was discovered
today prostrate and partially buried in deposits of red marl. They
are converted into beautiful specimens of variegated jasper. One
trunk was measured ten feet in diameter and more than one hun-
dred feet in length. Some of the stumps appear as if they had been
charred by fire before being converted into stone. The main por-
tions of the trees have a dark brown color; the smaller branches
are of a reddish hue. Fragments are strewn over the surface for
miles."
Wheeler called the creek near by Lithodendron Creek,
and he reported the banks as forty feet in height and
composed of red, sandy marl, and the width between
118 Arizona, the Wonderland
the bluffs as seeming nearly a mile. These trees are
of a different species from those found in the other for-
ests and are called Woodworthia arizonica. The trunks
are mostly dark in color, and have numerous pittings
on their surface. There is scarce any question but that
this forest grew where the trees are now found. There
is little or no evidence of flooding, nor of the scatter-
ing of the trees. Their roots were loosened by the
heavy rain-storms sufficiently to cause them to fall, and
silica charged water eventually covering them accounts
for their petrification. Dr. George Otis Smith, Direc-
tor of the U. S. Geological Survey, writes of the char-
ring as follows:
"The charring1 of the ends and portions of the outer surfaces of
some of the trunks referred to by Wheeler should not be attributed
to fire. Probably it represents carbonization, that is the transforma-
tion of these portions of the logs to coal. The observation of pet-
rified logs in other formations and parts of the world show clearly
that the logs were in the process of transformation into coal — gen-
erally the initial stages of the process — when the silica was de-
posited in a portion of the log. In some areas and strata a small
part only of the log is silicified, the greater part being transformed
to coal, the rank of which corresponds to the rank of the coals in
the same formations and area."
Sunset Crater and Lava Fields. For hundreds of
square miles in the region of the Petrified Forests vol-
canic activity is apparent. Mount San Mateo to the east,
and the San Francisco peaks to the west, are purely
volcanic, and one cannot travel far in any direction
without finding large lava flows and extinct craters.
One of the most interesting of these craters is to be
seen a few miles east of the San Francisco Mountains.
It is visible ten miles to the north from the vicinity of
Mile Post 337 on the Santa Fe. Its name suggests its
peculiarity. No matter at what hour it is seen, or what
The Petrified Forests 119
the condition of the weather, it invariably appears to
be flooded with sunshine. Like a red beacon it stands
above the somber-hued surrounding country cheerfully
smiling at all hours and all weathers. This bright ef-
fect undoubtedly is caused by the oxidization of the
iron particles in the rock of which the crest of the
mountain is formed, and which possesses a peculiar
glowing red color. This, seen in the pellucid and pure
air of Arizona, leads to the optical delusion that it is
always sunset on this particular peak.
There are other volcanoes in the neighborhood of the
San Francisco Mountains. All the slopes from the
highest peaks are patched with lava and basalt in colum-
nar structure. Mount Elden, O'Leary's Peak, Mounts
Sitgreaves, Kendricks and Williams are all volcanic, as
are the Mogollon Buttes on the Painted Desert. Hence
it is not surprising to find north of the San Francisco
range a large area of lava as black-looking and forbid-
ding as if it had been ejected but a few months ago
and had scarcely had time to cool. Closer investiga-
tion reveals that sand has blown in and covered much
of the lava, and trees, shrubs and flowers have taken
root and grown, some to great height.
Meteorite Mountain. Ten miles southeast from Can-
yon Diablo station on the line of the Santa Fe is a
peculiar mound, about two hundred feet in height.
When one climbs it he finds, to his surprise, that he is
on the rim of a bowl, a mile wide, and six hundred feet
deep, with an area of forty acres or thereabouts at the
bottom. When first seen everyone assumed it to be
an extinct crater, but as there were no evidences to
support such an assumption, thoughtful people began
to look for facts which might explain this most singular
phenomenon in a land of singular phenomena.
120 Arizona, the Wonderland
It was soon found that the surrounding region was
covered with large and small pieces and particles of
meteoric iron, weighing from a fraction of an ounce
to a thousand pounds or more. The theory of the
scientists is that a meteorite fell and exploded, thus
throwing up the mound, and at the same time scatter-
ing the pieces of the exploded meteorite in every di-
rection.1
Other scientists suggest that the hole may be due
to an explosion of steam from volcanic sources below,
accumulating in the pores of the sandstone and finally
reaching the limit of tension. This would account for
the broken sandstone and limestone constituting the en-
circling ruin and for the upturned edges of the strata,
which doubtless would bend upward somewhat before
they broke. The large amount of fine sand produced
would result from the violence of the explosion of steam
contained in the interstices of the sandstone.2
1 For fuller accounts of the Lava Fields and Meteorite Mountain
see my Our American Wonderlands, A. C. McGurg & Co.
2 Guidebook of the Western United States, Part C, The Santa
Fe Route. U. S. Geological Survey.
PINE FOREST AND MOUNTAIN ROAD, NEAR PRESCOTT, ARIZONA.
CHAPTER X
THE NATIONAL FORESTS OF ARIZONA
THERE are ten National Forests in Arizona, com-
prising a gross area of approximately thirteen million
acres and bearing a timber stand of seventeen billion
board feet of lumber and other forest products. These
areas have been set aside and are administered by the
Government for the purpose of insuring a permanent
timber supply and to prevent the destruction of forest
cover which regulates the flow of streams. With fifty
million acres of treeless desert tributary to these forests,
every square mile of which requires timber products
for its full development, and with her whole system of
agriculture absolutely dependent on forest streams for
irrigation, Arizona may well regard the proper han-
dling of her forest resources as an important factor in
her present and future development.
The present stand of timber is estimated, under scien-
tific forest management, to have an annual productive
capacity of about eighty-five million board feet of lum-
ber, sufficient to build ten thousand homes each year
without diminishing the stand or forest capacity.
Forty-five million feet are being actually cut each year.
As has been the case in European forestry, the annual
production may be confidently expected to largely in-
crease with the practice of better methods of manage-
ment.
The most dangerous enemy of Arizona's timber and
121
122 Arizona, the Wonderland
water supply is fire. Before the creation of National
Forests, forest fires burned millions of feet of timber
annually. But now, with extensive systems of look-
out towers, telephone lines, and trails, the Forest Ran-
gers are enabled to detect and reach them with prompt-
ness. Over ninety per cent, are extinguished before they
have spread to ten acres.
The menace of destructive conflagrations, however,
still exists, and its extent must be seen to be appre-
ciated. During the dry spring of 1916, for instance,
fires broke out on the Coconino Forest alone at the
rate of twenty per week. Out of over one hundred,
only two exceeded ten acres before they were extin-
guished. Out of two hundred fires throughout the State
during the same period, practically all were caused by
carelessness with matches and camp fires. This condi-
tion necessitates a continuous publicity campaign by For-
est Officers, of which " Prevent Forest Fires " is the
slogan.
But timber and water are by no means the sole end in
view, nor the sole useful product of Arizona's forests.
As pastures for livestock, as homes for the settler, as
hunting, fishing, and recreation grounds for the city-
dweller and tourist, and as sources of mineral wealth
and water-power, they are of hardly lesser importance.
Arizona's forest ranges support six hundred thousand
head of cattle, horses, sheep and goats, from which the
annual meat product alone would feed a city of half a
million population. At least thirty thousand families
derive their livelihood from this industry. But the most
important feature of the forest ranges is that they con-
stitute a resource of growing productive capacity. The
grazing regulations prevent the unfair competition which
has been so destructive to the " open " grazing lands,
The National Forests 123
and, as a consequence, each square mile of National
Forest supports a steadily increasing number of live-
stock, and under scientific methods of range manage-
ment produces each year a steadily improving grade of
beef, mutton, or wool. The annual gain in volume of
product has been close to three per cent., while the gain
in quality, though not so easily measurable, has been
much greater.
The mountain valleys traversing the National Forests
naturally embrace a considerable amount of land suit-
able for agriculture. The greater part of such lands
were taken up by homesteaders previous to the estab-
lishment of the Forests, and most of the remainder has
since been taken up under the Forest Homestead Law.
While few opportunities for homesteading are left, the
opportunities for more intensive development of lands
already taken up are unlimited. These mountain val-
leys are productive, particularly at the lower elevations
where fruit and berries can be raised. The valleys of
the southern forests also seem to possess marked possi-
bilities for raising English walnuts, which are grafted
to the hardy native walnut stocks.
As hunting, fishing and recreation grounds, Arizona's
forests have a usefulness which is only beginning to be
understood. Their beautiful scenery and bracing sum-
mer climate, within easy reach of the hot valleys and
business centers, inevitably make them the natural play-
grounds, not only of Arizonans, but to a large extent
of the people of neighboring States. Three factors have
operated to delay their full development for recreational
purposes. First, Americans heretofore have measured
play-grounds by their distance and costliness, rather than
by their proximity and cheapness. They are now learn-
ing better. Second, Arizona, like other States, has al-
124 Arizona, the Wonderland
lowed her naturally abundant stock of game and fish
to be almost swept away by illegal and unscrupulous
hunters. Signs of a complete reversal of attitude are
now apparent. Third, the forests have been inaccessi-
ble for lack of roads and trails. The good roads move-
ment is very rapidly overcoming this obstacle. In gen-
eral, it may be said that Arizona's forests offer attrac-
tions to the vacationist quite unduplicated elsewhere, and
that each year sees an improvement in the facilities for
enjoying them.
Not the least of these improvements is the recent Act
of Congress authorizing long term leases of forest lands
for summer home sites. The mountain forests of
Arizona contain ideal locations for tens of thousands of
summer camps and cottages, any and all of which can
now be leased from the Forest Service at nominal
rentals (ten dollars to twenty-five dollars). Lots up
to five acres in area are allowed. Ordinary temporary
camps are, of course, free of charge, as is also wood,
and pasturage for the camper's animals.
The demand for cottage sites is being anticipated by
the advance survey of lots in especially favorable loca-
tions, such as, for instance, Oak Creek and Lake Mary
near Flagstaff, Soldiers' Camp on the summit of the
Catalinas near Tucson, and Reynolds Creek in the
Sierra Anchas near Globe.
THE APACHE NATIONAL FOREST
This forest has been described largely in the chapter
on the White Mountains, to which the interested reader
is referred.
THE SITGREAVES NATIONAL FOREST
With the exception of a fringe of pinyon and juniper
along its northern edge, the Sitgreaves Forest, embrac-
The National Forests 125
ing nearly a million acres of the eastern end of the
Arizona Plateau, is practically one continuous belt of
exceptionally fine yellow pine timber. The total stand
is upwards of two and one-half billion feet
The nearest railroad is fifty miles to the north ; conse-
quently, practically none of this timber is being cut. It
is inevitable, however, that a railroad will be constructed
in the not far distant future. The timber is mature and
ready to use. Its quality is exceptional — mostly four
and five log trees. These facts, taken together with the
enormous volume available, make it safe to predict the
development of one of the greatest lumbering operations
in the United States. This is a great surprise to those
who regard Arizona as the arid, barren, desolate, desert
state. Even many Arizonans are ignorant of the vast
amount of timber their state possesses.
Unlike timber wealth, grass goes to market under
its own motive power. Consequently, we find the graz-
ing ranges of the Sitgreaves Forest quite fully utilized.
Permits to graze eleven thousand cattle and seventy-
seven thousand sheep are issued yearly. An especially
fine grade of lambs is produced.
The Sitgreaves has a fair stock of deer and turkey
and a few trout, but the most interesting feature of its
game supply is the herd of Yellowstone Park elk lo-
cated at its western end. These were liberated in 1913
by the joint efforts of the State Game Warden and the
B. P. O. E., and have done very well in spite of con-
siderable poaching by unscrupulous hunters. Nearly
forty calves were seen in 1915. With proper protec-
tion this herd may be expected to eventually re-stock
the entire central plateau from the Grand Canyon to
the Rio Grande in New Mexico. They have already
scattered from Flagstaff to the New Mexico line.
126 Arizona, the Wonderland
THE COCONINO NATIONAL FOREST
In volume of business, as well as in extent and vari-
ety of resources, this forest, covering over a million and
a half acres of the Coconino Plateau, is one of the most
important in the United States. The timber stand is
no less than four billion feet, of which twenty-three
million feet are cut annually by three of the largest
sawmills of the Southwest. In addition, forty-five
thousand cattle and over ninety thousand sheep are sup-
ported by its grazing ranges.
As a pleasure ground for the tourist, the Coconino
Forest is in process of rapid development. Trans-con-
tinental travellers will soon have access to the famous
San Francisco Peaks, up which a private company, op-
erating under Forest Service permit, is building a motor
road. With an elevation of over thirteen thousand feet,
the view from these peaks is easily one of the wonders
of the Southwest.
Along its southern edge, the Coconino Plateau breaks
off toward the desert in a huge escarpment known as
" The Rim." Numerous mountain streams, flowing
southward, have carved this almost mile-high wall into
a series of deep and rugged canyons. Most beautiful
of these is Oak Creek.
Here the climate of the mountains meets and over-
laps the vegetation of the desert in a most surprising
and bewildering manner, and evolves as a net result
one of the most beautiful spots in Arizona. Here are
found mountain forests, mountain water, mountain
ferns, and mountain wild-flowers in full perfection, ac-
tually side by side with huge oaks, sycamores, walnuts,
mescal, manzanita, and unique desert forms. Great alder
trees add a touch of Oregon. Sturdy hornbeams and
IN THE COCONINO NATIONAL FOREST, ARIZONA.
Seen from an elevation of 10,500 feet.
The National Forests 127
dogwoods bespeak the Appalachians. Violets and
spring beauties remind one of New England. And in
the picturesque little ranches which line the stream, one
sees glimpses of the whole world, from England to the
Orient. It is safe to state that Oak Creek is the only
place in the Southwest where speckled trout and desert
cactus, alpine firs and Oriental figs, mountain pines and
greenhouse roses, English ivy and Virginia tobacco,
together with nuts, berries, and fruits of all descrip-
tions are all found growing on a forty acre lot.
Oak Creek is already a favorite camping-place for
hundreds of people, and through its unique attractions
is destined to become one of the most popular summer
resorts in the State. The Forest Service has ready for
lease a large number of lots for cottage sites which bet-
ter roads will soon make accessible by motor from all
parts of the State.
THE TUSAYAN NATIONAL FOREST
The Grand Canyon of the Colorado is the outstand-
ing feature of this forest, which covers nearly two mil-
lion acres at the western end of the Arizona Plateau.
The Colorado River is its northern boundary.
Entirely aside from the Canyon and its value to the
general public, the Tusayan Forest supports local in-
dustries of large importance. Its timber supplies large
sawmills, cutting twelve million feet per year, while its
grazing ranges support over twenty-two thousand cat-
tle and seventy-two thousand sheep. Some of the larg-
est steers from Arizona are produced in the Tusayan
Forest.
THE KAIBAB NATIONAL FOREST
This forest is in "The Strip" and is administered
from Ogden, Utah. Consequently, we have little first
128 Arizona, the Wonderland
hand information about it. Its area is about one mil-
lion acres. It supports many cattle and has a great
amount of fine yellow pine timber which is attracting
the attention of lumbermen. There is talk about a spe-
cial railroad to take out this timber to the northward.
The " Strip " is the name given to that part of Arizona
that is on the northern side of the Grand Canyon, and
consequently, practically cut off, to all intents and pur-
poses, from the rest of the State.
THE PRESCOTT NATIONAL FOREST
The first purpose of the Prescott National Forest is
to protect the watershed of the Verde River and other
streams tributary to the great agricultural regions of
the Salt River Valley. Grazing is accordingly regulated
with particular caution, but nevertheless the Prescott
ranges support no less than fifty- four thousand head of
cattle and seventy-one thousand head of sheep. Graz-
ing permits for cattle are particularly prized by reason
of the value of this country as a breeding range. The
warm climate and sparse but rich feed offer just the
environment necessary to produce a maximum percent-
age of calves. Bloody Basin, which is one of the Pres-
cott grazing units, has been called by experts " the best
piece of breeding range in the United States."
The cattlemen of the Prescott are well organized, and
their Advisory Boards, appointed to cooperate with the
Forest Service in the handling of range questions, fur-
nish a splendid example of the manner in which the
Government and the stockmen are working together for
mutual advantage. A high degree of scientific range
management is attained on the Prescott ranges. The
stockmen not only help to enforce the forest regula-
tions, but the Forest Service helps to enforce various
The National Forests 129
special rules promulgated by the stockmen themselves.
Matters pertaining to roundups, drift fences, salting,
steer sales, etc. are thus settled by cooperative action,
with resulting benefits to all concerned.
It is a common saying in these days that the stock
business has been shorn of all romance, and that the
picturesque cowboy or sheepman is a thing of the past.
This is true to a large extent, but those who believe it
wholly true have never seen the " driveways " of the
Prescott.
These driveways are the scene of one of the most
striking features of Arizona's livestock industry; —
namely, the semi-annual migration of sheep between
their winter ranges on the desert and their summer-
ranges in the mountain pastures of the Coconino,
Tusayan and Sitgreaves National Forests. Nearly three
hundred and fifty thousand sheep annually winter and
drop their lambs on the desert, subsisting on the famous
" filaree," which springs up like magic under the winter
rains. Under the spring drouth it vanishes with even
greater suddenness. At this moment the sheep must
go north, and north they go, over two hundred miles
of rough trails, arriving just in time for the lambs to
fatten on the lush grasses and weeds which follow the
melting snows. In July the fat lambs are sold, and in
the fall the ewes again go south.
THE TONTO NATIONAL FOREST
Like the Prescott, the purpose of the Tonto National
Forest is principally the protection of the Salt River
watershed. In this case, however, the importance of
proper administration is further intensified by the fact
that the larger part of the Forest area (over two mil-
lion acres) drains directly into the Roosevelt Reservoir,
130 Arizona, the Wonderland
the undue sedimentation of which would be a public mis-
fortune too obvious to require comment. .
Cattle raising is the predominant industry of the
Tonto Forest. Permits aggregating nearly sixty-nine
thousand head are issued yearly. Here, again, is a
quality of range peculiarly adapted to cattle breeding,
and capable of producing a calf crop much greater than
the lush grasses of the northern mountains, although the
latter, to the casual observer, would appear infinitely su-
perior.
The Tonto Forest furnishes a good example of how
National Forest receipts from grazing permits, timber
sales, etc., redound to the benefit of roads and schools.
With funds derived from the Arizona Forests, the For-
est Service is just starting the construction of a new
highway from Heber, on the Sitgreaves, to Lake Roose-
velt, the first twenty-five mile section of which will
cost about $40,000. This road will furnish the first
real connection between the two great regions lying
above and below " The Rim " respectively, and will
also make accessible by motor many locations for sum-
mer homes for the people of Globe and the desert coun-
try.
THE CROOK NATIONAL FOREST l
This Forest lies in three divisions, covering the Santa
Teresa, Pinaleno, and Galiuro Ranges, and aggregat-
ing nearly nine hundred thousand acres. The highest
point is Mount Graham, which is covered with heavy
stands of fir and spruce. The principal industry is
grazing, permits for eighteen thousand cattle being is-
sued annually. While there are no large mills, the
wood products are in large demand by reason of the
extensive agricultural districts in the adjacent valley.
1 Named after General Crook, the Indian fighter.
The National Forests 131
The city of Safford derives its water supply from the
adjacent Forest watershed, which is administered un-
der a cooperative agreement between the city and the
Forest Service. The agreement provides that the city
shall make its own special regulations to prevent the
pollution of its waters, which, after approval by the
Forest Service, are enforced by the local Forest offi-
'cers. The extra cost over and above the ordinary cost
of administration is paid by the city. This arrange-
ment exemplifies the manner in which any city can give
special protection to its water supply through coopera-
tion with the Forest Service.
THE CORONADO NATIONAL FOREST
The Coronado Forest lies in five divisions, covering
the mountain ranges of southern Arizona from the
Santa Catalinas to the Tumacacori Range. The
larger part of the Forest area of one million acres is of
comparatively low elevation, but the summit of the Ca-
talinas rises above nine thousand feet. Covered with a
fine forest of pine and fir, with good water and a delight-
ful summer climate, these mountains assume a place of
special importance in their relation to the city of Tuc-
son and the hot deserts of the surrounding country.
Hundreds of Tucson people already rely on the Cata-
linas as a refuge from the summer heat, and only the
absence of a good road up the mountain prevents its like
use by thousands. Given a road, and the forest will
soon be dotted with hundreds of summer camps and
cottages.
The need for such a road has been overlooked
neither by the Forest Service nor the public. Pima
County has already voted a bond issue of $100,000 for
its construction, and the Service has already surveyed
132 Arizona, the Wonderland
the route. When constructed, this road will climb the
mile-high wall of Mount Lemmon with a maximum
grade of eight per cent. There will be two series of
switchbacks. The view from the summit has been de-
scribed as among the most beautiful in the Southwest.
The grazing ranges of the Coronado Forest support
twenty-three thousand cattle and seventeen thousand
goats. The timber stand is about two million cords of
wood, in addition to a considerable amount of saw-
timber, most of which is at present inaccessible.
THE CHIRICAHUA NATIONAL FOREST
This Forest lies in the extreme southeastern corner
of the State, and extends into New Mexico. It covers
a series of rugged mountain ranges, whose summits are
covered with pine timber of fair quality. The lower
slopes bear about two million cords of wood unfit for
saw-timber but nevertheless of large importance to the
great expanses of treeless -country surrounding. The
Forest supports about twelve thousand cattle and a few
goats.
There are many beautiful canyons reaching back into
the Chiricahua Mountains which are already popular
as camping grounds for parties from Douglas and other
near-by towns. A number of them offer excellent sites
for summer homes.
CHAPTER XI
THE WHITE MOUNTAINS OF ARIZONA
THOUGH the White Mountains are included in the
National Forests or Indian Reservations, they are en-
titled, by their very uniqueness, to a special chapter.
It would be utterly impossible to convince the man
who knows that he knows without study or observation
that, in the heart of the so-called arid eastern Arizona
there is a range of mountains, surrounded by an ele-
vated plateau covered with richest forests, where one
may wander for days and weeks by the side of limpid
and pure streams (save in the rainy season) abounding
in the gamiest kind of trout ; where he may stroll, ride,
or drive through open forest-parks of pine, fir, spruce
and balsam, with deer and antelope, wild turkey and
blue grouse in sight every hour; where grizzlies and
other bears are easily to be found by good hunters;
where peaks, nearly twelve thousand feet in height, can
be seen snow-clad during fully seven months of the year ;
where it is cool and delicious in the middle of the sum-
mer; and where, to give touches of romance, two, three
decades ago, roamed the fiercest, most cruel, relentless
and vindictive savages known in American history, and
who are now living there in perfect peace and quietude,
and where countless prehistoric cliff-ruins are constantly
being discovered that have never, as yet, felt the dese-
crating touch of the white man.
Such a claim does seem preposterous. Yet, strange
133
134 Arizona, the Wonderland
to say, it is literally true. The White Mountain region
of Arizona is as absolutely sui generis in the United
States as are Glacier National Park, the Grand Can-
yon of Arizona, the Yellowstone, or the Yosemite. It
has no eastern counterpart, for its average elevation
is nearly as high as is the summit of Mount Washington,
which is the one towering mountain of all the East, all
the North, and all the South of our great country, and
all the Middle West, until one reaches the Rocky Moun-
tains. In other words, the general elevation of the pla-
teau country of the White Mountains is between six
thousand and seven thousand feet above sea-level, hence
its individualistic and wonderful characteristics.
Geographically the White Mountains (which take
their name from the annual seven-months' covering of
snow under which they are buried) are an extension of
the so-called " Mogollon Rim " which rises on the
Mogollon Mountains of New Mexico and extends in a
westerly direction across the east-central portion of the
State. Geologically, this " Rim " is the result of a ter-
rific volcanic upheaval in the Tertiary Age, and its vol-
canic origin is seen in the fantastic rock formations and
the lava-strewn canyons and river valleys.
The largest remaining and virgin forests of western
yellow pine, followed in turn at the higher altitudes by
the Alpine species of Douglas fir, Engleman spruce,
blue spruce and cork-bark fir, densely cover these moun-
tain slopes, and the memory of those now living will
confirm the statement that I have seen great herds of
elk, mountain-sheep, deer, and antelope, and many bear,
roaming fearless and afraid, in these vast desert soli-
tudes. To-day even, for the sportsman who is willing
to expend the necessary energy, bear (brown, black and
even of the grizzly variety) can be found in addition to
The White Mountains 135
black- and white-tail deer, mountain lions, wild turkey
(the latter especially abundant), ducks by the score of
every known variety, and wild geese. The State of Ari-
zona is just awakening to the fact that it has within the
White Mountains a sportsman's paradise, and a renewed
effort to protect the remaining game, in cooperation with
the officers of the United States Forest Service, is being
undertaken in order that this valuable asset may not
entirely disappear.
Well do I remember when a friend of mine brought
down with his rifle a forty-pound wild bronze turkey.
It was as plump as ever tame turkey found itself, and
its meat was rich and delicious with the pinyon nuts it
had fattened upon. There were only two of us, but how
do you think we cooked that turkey? In the orthodox,
Parker House, Waldorf-Astoria, Walton, Fairmont
fashion? By no means. In the White Mountains even
civilized men learn to follow Apache methods. A pit,
three feet deep, was dug, perhaps two feet in diameter.
Into it dry sticks and wood were placed and set on fire.
Soon a bed of hot coals was provided. In the meantime
the turkey was covered with a coating of thick mud —
head, feathers, tail and all. This turkey mud-ball was
now placed in the hole, on the bed of hot coals, more
coals placed on top of it, a layer of earth covering the
whole mass, and then left for an hour or so. Then
the earth and ashes were scraped away and the hot
mud-ball removed. When the mud — now dry and
caked hard — was taken off, the whole skin with its
load of feathers was removed easier than an orange is
peeled, and there the rich, juicy, delicious meat of the
bird was exposed. By cooking in this manner all the
flavor and juices are kept — nothing escapes into the
air — and though one who has not tried it may question
136 Arizona, the Wonderland
the statement that the most critical taste cannot discover
the slightest taint or odor from the feathers, etc., yet
every one who has tried the method can vouch for its
accuracy.
In the vast forest area of the White Mountains other
game birds abound. Scores of blue grouse and Mearns'
quail are to be seen. These latter fascinating birds
alone make a trip to the region worth while both to the
sportsman and the ornithologist, for few there are who
have ever seen the Mearns' quail, much less in quantities
sufficient for shooting.
There is little or no chaparral in the forest as is
found so common in most forest areas in California
mountains. Here the trees stand almost as if planted
at proper distances apart. One can easily imagine him-
self in an old English park, unvisited and abandoned,
perhaps, but still clearly showing its ancient planting
and usage. In the hottest days of summer on the des-
ert plains of the southern part of the State, or when
travelers on the brink of the Grand Canyon feel the
heat surging up from the sun-scorched rocks below, one
may ride for hours, as fast as he and his horse care
to go through the wide open parks of this region,
and the temperature seems made to order. The air is
cool, refreshing, delicious, yet sun-kissed, vivifying
and as life-giving as a champagne that has no evil after-
effect.
There is excellent fishing in the head-waters of the
Little Colorado River — for it is a very different stream
up here from that which trans-continental travelers know
as the Little Colorado near Winslow. There it is a dirty,
filthy, muddy stream that meanders lazily along in its
sandy bed, quickened only in the time of heavy rains
and mountain freshets, with an occasional cloudburst,
The White Mountains 137
but here, it is clear, sparkling, pure, cold, fresh from
the snowy fountains of serene mountain heights. Yet
this statement would be misleading were it not qualified
by reference to the rainy season. When it rains the
surface drainage flows into the streams and makes a
" rich mud brown " color, but they soon clear up and
repossess their original purity.
The chief fish caught is a rare creature, the salmo
plueriticus, a trout that is found only high up in the
mountains where the Little Colorado River has its rise.
The largest specimen I have ever heard of was caught
by a Mormon settler, and it weighed eight pounds,
seven ounces. Two and three pounders are quite com-
mon, and the Arizona anglers from Phoenix, Tucson,
and other cities of the south and of Holbrook, Winslow,
and even Flagstaff on the north, gain many a day's sport
in seeking to lure these speckled beauties from their
watery home.
In addition to the Little Colorado there are a score
of smaller rivers and creeks, which often abound in
trout. There are the Blue River, San Francisco River,
and Willow, Freeze-Out, Bonito, Malapais, Clover,
Forestdale, Turkey, Silver, Coyote and other creeks
galore.
On the south side of the region are the White and
Black Rivers equally as attractive as the Little Colorado,
the Black being the upper reach of the Salt River itself.
Both the Salt and Gila Rivers have their rise in this
elevated forest land. The Gila heads in on the east,
beyond the Peloncillo Mountains, receiving some of its
earliest waters even from Grant County in New Mexico.
Flowing slightly northwest it passes through the break
between the Gila and Peloncillo ranges, striking south-
westerly for a short distance, then northwest almost
138 Arizona, the Wonderland
parallel to the course of the Arizona Eastern Railway
until San Carlos is reached, in the San Carlos or White
Mountain Indian Reservation, where it sweeps again
to the southwest as far as Winkelman. Winding and
twisting it flows on past Florence, and the Casa Grande
ruins, passing through the Gila River Indian Reserva-
tion, and then follows an almost due northwesterly
course until it comes to where the Salt River joins it a
few miles west of Phoenix. Twenty miles beyond it
makes the great curve, known as the Gila Bend — a name
given to a town, an Indian Reservation, a range of
mountains, as well as to the course of the river — and
from thence on, until it joins itself to the muddy waters
of the Colorado Grande at Yuma, it flows much as other
rivers flow in the cultivated and civilized lands. Never,
in the whole of its course, does it flow to a higher paral-
lel than Phoenix, so that it is distinctly a southern
Arizona river.
Practically the same may be said of the Salt River,
though it has a slightly higher general parallel of flow
than has the Gila. It rises in the region of Greer,
where Ord and Thomas Peaks soar upwards, ten thou-
sand two hundred and sixty-six feet and eleven thousand
four hundred and ninety-six feet respectively, flows to
the north of Natanes Plateau, to where the White River
and Carrizo Creek unite with it and finally flows into the
Roosevelt Lake. Some ten miles further south the
travelers over the famous Apache Trail automobile
stage-line first catch sight of its sparkling waters. Thus
both rivers flow from east to west, and both are within
the 33rd and 34th parallels.
In addition to the headwaters of these streams there
are many large reservoirs, made by the Mormon set-
tlers, and these waters also abound with trout, so that
The White Mountains 139
anywhere in the region good angling generally may be
obtained.
The Mormons early settled in this region even while
the Apaches were on the warpath. They have estab-
lished many good farms and laid the foundation for a
great agricultural and stock-raising empire. In this they
are now ably seconded by their whilom enemies. In
nothing in Arizona history is so marked a contrast to be
observed as there is between the Apache Indians of to-
day and of three or four decades ago. Then they were
the Ishmaels of the western world. Every man's hand
was against them, as theirs was against every man.
Now they are farmers, ranchers, stock-raisers and work-
men for others. They are the most reliable help one
can obtain in the State, for out-of-door labor, and are
faithful, diligent and trustworthy. It is a joy to a be-
liever in the solidarity of the human race to see these
Apaches developing into responsible citizenship.
Several sawmills are operated at the foot of the White
Mountains upon which there is an almost inexhaustible
supply of virgin timber, and this is sold in large quan-
tities by the Government to both the settler and the
lumberman. It is only within the past few years that
lumbermen have begun to realize the possibilities of log-
ging the timber from the White Mountain region. Re-
cently a possible route for a railroad from Holbrook,
Arizona, to the heart of this timber has been examined
and inquiries to Forest officers as to the quantity and
quality of the timber are of frequent occurrence. It will
only be a matter of time before this entire region will
be made yet more accessible to the lumberman, business
man, or recreationist.
In addition to the timber and forage, and its possi-
bilities for hunting, fishing and camping, the White
140 Arizona, the Wonderland
Mountains contain still another undeveloped asset, for
within the streams which have their source therein, are
unlimited water-power possibilities. The Little Colo-
rado and the Black Rivers are both available for power
development, and upon both streams applications for pre-
liminary power permits are about to be issued by the
Forest Service.
Another of the rare charms of this region to one type
of mind is the fact that it is an almost unexplored cliff-
dwelling region. These quaint prehistoric homes of the
past are found everywhere, and recently in grading a
road not far from Greer ruins were found from which
it is said a wagonload of ancient and very valuable
pottery was removed. As before explained, it is a vol-
canic region. Mount Ord, Mount Thomas and the
great Prieto Plateau are clearly created by the fires of
Pluto, when Mother Earth was spewing forth molten
masses from her fiery mouth. There are a number of
extinct craters, in the bowls of which tiny lakes and de-
lightful groves now nestle, and many a mile one may
follow the lava flows, in as picturesque bewilderment as
is found in the wonderful region around Mount Zuni and
Mount San Mateo, in New Mexico.
In many of these flows, too, interesting caves have
been discovered, some of which have been explored for
a mile or more. And these caves were used as homes
by the prehistoric dwellers of the region. Scores of fine
ollas, bowls and other shapes of pottery have been found ;
also large pieces of woven cotton cloth, hanks of spun
cotton, woven matting, corn, — corn-cobs, fetiches, and
beads in great quantity, very similar to those found in
the cliff and cave ruins which dot Arizona in every di-
rection.
Mount Thomas undoubtedly was a shrine for these pec-
The White Mountains 141
pie, for here fetiches, together with thousands of wam-
pum beads and pieces of turquoise have been found.
Some of these have been bored with so small an instru-
ment that they can be strung on only the finest silk
thread.
Naturally the skeptical, the curious, and the in-
telligently inquiring desire to know how these delectable
mountain regions may be reached. There is a regular
automobile mail stage between Holbrook, on the main
line of the Santa Fe to Springerville, and automobilists
may follow that stage road. From the south one may
go from Phoenix to Globe, or Tucson to Globe, the lat-
ter being a new road by way of Oracle, Winkelman and
Christmas, through the Box Canyon of the Gila River,
the Final range, and then from Globe to Rice, twenty-
two miles, over a fine automobile road, and by the side of
the Arizona and Eastern Railway. Now the traveler
leaves the railroad and begins to climb the first plateau
of the White Mountains. Fifteen miles away he comes
to Casadora Springs on Sycamore Creek, where he may
pitch his tent in real wilderness. Seven miles more of
climbing brings him upon the second plateau, among the
pines, where the U. S. Government sawmill is located
that has made lumber for the building of the homes for
the Indians. Twenty-one miles farther Black River is
crossed on a new bridge with strong concrete piers.
While this is called the Black River it is really the Salt
River in its upper reaches. Then there is the White
River, five miles away, where a good bridge gives one
easy and safe crossing. Twenty-one more miles brings
one to Fort Apache, where Uncle Sam keeps a company
of soldiers as a reminder of old days, when there were
about as lively scenes transpiring in this region as one
ever wished to participate in. Three miles north of the
142 Arizona, the Wonderland
Fort is the White River Indian Agency, where Judge
Grouse, the agent, has made many friends by his geniality
and kindliness. He issues the fishing permits, without
which no one may fish on the reservation. The next
stop is twenty-one miles away, at Cooley's. Here one
finds the old pioneer scout, full of stories of the Apache
raid days, and who, with his hospitable family, takes
good care of guests and travelers, whether they are
passing by and stop but for a meal, or come for a month.
Here at about seven thousand, five hundred feet alti-
tude the air is ever pure, cool and refreshing, and it is
one of the healthiest spots on the face of the globe. The
flowers that adorn the Cienega — the name given to the
ranch — are exquisite and glorious and make the place
in summer time a perfect floral paradise.
One must go from here to see White River Falls, a
beautiful thirty-foot waterfall, which is about sixteen or
eighteen miles away, near which — say two miles away
— one finds an excellent camping and fishing place where
trout are abundant. Pinetop, fifteen miles away, is the
next stopping-place. It is a Mormon settlement, largely
peopled by Penrod, a pioneer of 1886, whose descend-
ants till the soil, raising grain and vegetables, which find
a ready market at Fort Apache.
Now for ten miles one is on a road where pine, fir,
and quaken aspen abound, making this a pure forest road
of exquisite shade.
I should have mentioned that from the Cienega one
has wonderfully clear views of Thomas Peak and Mount
Ord, which are the second and third highest mountains
in Arizona. There are trails leading to the summits of
each of these, built by the rangers, and from these ele-
vated viewpoints one may secure views of the surround-
ing country that are beyond description.
The White Mountains 143
The road to Springerville is a fairly good mountain
road, and one can thence continue on over to the north-
ern edge of the White Mountains, coming out either by
way of St. John's, or Shumway, Taylor, and Snowflake
to Holbrook.
The road from Globe or Rice will ultimately be made
a part of the regular automobile road of the Wonder
Circuit, but even if one should find himself upon it with
the handicap of bad weather, the most blase traveler of
earth will declare the journey soul satisfying. I am a
poor prophet if, in every case, the man, or woman, who
values knowledge of a new and enchanting land enough
to endure a little fatigue and discomfort in order to reach
it, does not return from this White Mountain region
full of happy and delightful memories that he, or she, will
always be glad to renew, for I know of no more delight-
ful region for a camping-out trip on this footstool.
One can go to Springerville and there secure a complete
outfit, and, if necessary, competent guides, horses, pack
animals, etc., and in a short time gain such new health
and vigor as was never before possessed. I venture the
prophecy that within the next twenty years this will be
one of the most popular stopping-places for the trans-
continental tourist to be found in America, and the one
that will give the greatest and most lasting satisfaction.*
1 Since writing the above I have learned that the Becker Company,
of Springerville, who have long outfitted those who were aware of
the delights of the White Mountains, are now erecting a substantial
hotel to take care of the increasing number of visitors flocking to
this delectable region.
CHAPTER XII
THE ARIZONA WONDER CIRCUIT
THE automobile is one of the strongest incentives to
the making of good roads, and where there are good
roads a country soon becomes accessible. That Arizona
is a wonderland I am assured no person will doubt even
though he but hastily skims over the pages of this book.
Yet many who live in Arizona, as well as tourists hastily
passing through, have little conception of many of its
scenic, historic and antiquarian allurements. A move-
ment is now on foot (early in 1917) which, if consum-
mated, as there is every reason to believe it will be, will
open up new country to the sightseer, attract many thou-
sands to Arizona and give to the transcontinental
traveler, both by railway and automobile, an opportunity
to see as astoundingly varied, as picturesque, as remark-
able, and as wonderful a land and its people as are to be
found anywhere on the globe.
Let me briefly outline the plan as at present con-
templated for the survey of this " Wonder Circuit."
Starting at Phoenix, the capital of the State, the road
followed will be through Cactus Park, Mesa and Tempe,
by the Superstition range of mountains, down the Fish
Creek Hill, over the Apache-built road to the Roosevelt
Dam, then to Miami and Globe. Time could be taken
at the two latter cities to visit the large copper mines
which rank with the largest and greatest producers in the
world.
144
The Wonder Circuit 145
Then from Globe the road will proceed to Rice, across
the White Mountain or San Carlos Apache Indian reser-
vation, thence to Fort Apache over the Natanes Plateau
to Springerville. This part of the trip will be a surprise
to visitors, no matter how widely traveled, or what they
have seen. It is the wonder-heart of the wonderland.
From Springerville the road is through a region of
great fascination and interest to Adamana, near where
the Petrified Forests are located. Here these wonderful
fossil forests can be thoroughly explored, together with
the quaint pictographs, cliff-dwellings and other ruins
that are found in abundance.
Thence to Holbrook, where a slight detour will give
one the opportunity of seeing the interesting prehistoric
village of Homolobi, excavated by Dr. Jesse Walter
Fewkes, of the Smithsonian Institution, and from which
some of the most interesting and valuable prehistoric
pottery of the Western Continent was gained. Over
the Painted Desert the road will run, giving one glimpses
of God's original paint-pots and testing pallette, until
Keam's Canyon is reached, where is located one of the
government schools for the education of the Hopis, the
Quaker Indians of Arizona. From this point the Won-
der Circuit might be made to include a trip to and up
into the heart of Canyon de Chelly, for many years re-
garded as the impregnable stronghold of the Navahos,
and conceded by all who have seen it to be one of the
most stupendous and awe-inspiring pieces of canyon
scenery known. Here were first found and described by
Lieut. Simpson, some of the noted cliff-dwellings of
Arizona, upon which scientists and others have written
most fascinatingly. Monument Canyon and Canyon
del Muerto, the latter with its mummy caves and the
former with its legendary Spider Rock, are both off-
146 Arizona, the Wonderland
shoots from Canyon de Chelly, and a large number of
blanket-weaving Navahos make these canyons their
permanent home.
Made at certain times of the year, this trip might en-
able the traveler to see one or more of the astounding
ceremonial dances of the Navahos. The Snake Dance of
the Hopis is not more unbelievable than the Fire Dance
of the Navahos, and the Yebichi Dance of the latter is
as gorgeous, varied, elaborate and fascinating as the
Lelentu- or Flute-Dance of the former. Few, even of
Arizonans, have ever been privileged to see these dances,
for the Navaho, even far more than the Hopi, are a
jealous and conservative people, preferring to conduct
their religious ceremonials in secrecy where the eye of
the white man is not supposed to see.
Returning to Keam's Canyon — or going by an even
more wonderful route via Kayenta, a few miles from
which are the stupendous cliff-dwellings of Betatakin and
Kitsiel and thence to Tuba City, — the seven villages of
the Hopis will be reached, where these People of Peace
have long dwelt, carrying on their quaint and startling
ceremonies that Americans are now beginning to appreci-
ate. The Snake Dance is already quite well known, but
there are a score of other beautiful, quaint, archaic and
surprising dances, with which a lore is connected as elabo-
rate as the mythology of Greeks, Romans and Norsemen
combined. The pantheon of their gods too, comprises
as many gods and lesser divinities, as these three coun-
tries of ancient days. In their home life they are no
less interesting. To see the women build the houses
while the men sit and look on, or, perhaps, fill up the
time by knitting the soleless stockings for the family;
to witness them at work in their pathetic little corn-
fields; to hear them singing in concerted unison as they
The Wonder Circuit 147
grind their corn on the primitive mills, or metates, of a
thousand years ago; to hear the mothers instructing
their daughters in the duties of wife- and mother-hood
as they fix up their hair in the peculiar fashion for
which they are noted ; or to hear father or mother, elder
sister or brother telling the children of their vast num-
ber of greater and lesser divinities, using for that pur-
pose the tihus, or dolls, of which they have over three
hundred different varieties ; to see the women make their
baskets covered with striking geometrical designs, or
paint their pottery with quaint and archaic symbols;
these and a score, a hundred other fascinating events,
occupy one's attention while with these primitive dwell-
ers upon the high mesas of the Painted Desert.
Perhaps, if one of the shamans or women of the Old
were in the mood, or were " persuaded," one might have
the opportunity of listening to the story, elsewhere told
in these pages, of the storming of Awatobi and the
slaughter of the whole of the male populace — victims
to the wrath of the vindictive Hopi medicine-man be-
cause of their tolerance of the long-gowns, as the Hopis
used to designate the Franciscan friars.
Talk about human interest in the ruins of Europe at-
tracting American travelers there! Surely there is
enough of human interest in the ancient historical ruins
of Arizona to give one his fill, for a while at least.
Leaving this interesting people the road would cross
another portion of the Painted Desert, over the Little
Colorado River, where more prehistoric ruins are to be
seen, as well as the Falls, near which the Little Colo-
rado enters into a series of deep canyons that are pre-
cursors of the more wonderful Grand Canyon with which
they connect. Then one crosses the shoulders of the San
Francisco Mountain, by Sunset Crater to the Cave and
148 Arizona, the Wonderland
Cliff-dwellings of Walnut Canyon and by the Lava
Fields to Flagstaff, where is situated the Lowell Astro-
nomical Observatory. Here Professor Percival Lowell,
of Boston, with his corps of trained astronomers, made
those studies of the planet Mars that have excited tre-
mendous interest and attention among the astronomers
of the world. From Flagstaff a good road leads to the
scenic wonder of the whole earth — the Grand Canyon
of Arizona. El Tovar, the Hopi House, the Navaho
Village, the Rim Rides to Grand View, Moran, Mari-
copa, Hopi, Pima, and other points ; the descent into the
canyon by the Bright Angel, Hermit or other trails ; the
new monument recently erected and dedicated to the
memory of that great explorer and scientist, Major
John Wesley Powell, the organizer of the United States
Geological Survey, and the Bureau of American Eth-
nology, as well as the Father of the U. S. Reclamation
Service; a visit to Mallery Grotto where many quaint
pictographs are to be seen; these, and a hundred other
things will make this portion of the trip forever memo-
rable.
Then, taking the Bass Road along the rim of the Can-
yon, passing Hotouta Amphitheater, Castor and Pollux,
Havasupai Point — which latter Dr. T. Mitchell Prud-
den asserts is the most scenic and attractive point on the
whole south rim of the Grand Canyon — one may ride
to Bass Camp, go down the trail into the heart of the Can-
yon, where, from three interior plateaus — the Grand
Scenic Divide, Huethawali Plateau and Mystic Springs
Plateau — one may see the Canyon under the most favor-
able conditions. Thence an easy ride over a fairly-well
engineered trail conducts one to the Colorado River,
where Bass Ferry is found — a cage swinging on a strong
wire cable — over which horses, cattle, sheep, and pas-
The Wonder Circuit 149
sengers are transported. On the other side of the river
the trail leads by Button Point to Point Sublime, the spot
where Captain Button, the poet-scientist of the United
States Engineers, wrote his captivating description of the
Grand Canyon, which have been the delight of scientists
and literati ever since they were first published. After
seeing Point Sublime you can wander over the volcanic
regions of southern Utah to Kanab Canyon and the Can-
yon of the Rio Virgen.
Then, on returning to Bass Camp, on the south rim, an-
other experience, by many regarded as even more fasci-
nating, thrilling and unique, is offered by a trip down
the Topocobya Trail to the villages of the Havasupai
Indians, in Havasu — Cataract — Canyon.
Thus filled to overflowing with the grandeurs and
romances of the Grand Canyon region the traveler will
turn his face to Williams, resting quietly at the foot of
Bill Williams Mountain, and in the heart of a great lum-
bering region. Then, riding over the roads constructed
over the breaks of the Mogollon Plateau, one has thrills
enough until he reaches Jerome, the famous copper-min-
ing camp, which made the fortune of Senator Clark, of
Montana. From here a brief detour would allow a visit
to the remarkable Montezuma's Well, and the romantic
cliff-ruin, known as Montezuma's Castle, from which the
road would be to Prescott, once the most important town
of Arizona, and the center of a district of surpassing
historic associations, and over the Copper Basin Moun-
tains to Castle Hot Springs and thence to Phoenix.
The entire trip would cover from a thousand to thir-
teen hundred miles. It would cross five transcontinental
automobile roads, viz., " Ocean to Ocean," " National
Old Trails," " Borderland," " Trail to the Sunset " and
the " Old Spanish Highway." Six railroads would be
150 Arizona, the Wonderland
accessible, also, viz., the Arizona Eastern, Southern
Pacific, Santa Fe, Grand Canyon branch, Prescott &
Phcenix branch, and the United Verde & Pacific. Tak-
ing it all in all, I know of no such trip on the surface
of the globe, and if, after this " Wonder Circuit " was
well established, it were enlarged to take in the Zuni
Indian villages — the famed " Seven Cities of Cibola "
of Coronado's day — El Morro, as the historic Inscrip-
tion Rock is known; Acoma, the peerless City of the
Cliff; the Mesa Encantada, or Enchanted Mesa of the
Acomas ; the Pueblos of the Rio Grande, including Taos
on the north ; the Penitentes of Taos and its surrounding
country; the Mesa Verde Cliff Ruins, Monument Valley,
with its scores of Standing Rocks that dwarf into insig-
nificance the world-famous Garden of the Gods in Colo-
rado; the Mammoth Natural Bridges of southern Utah,
each one of which is vastly larger than the Natural
Bridge of Virginia — I say, were these added scenic fea-
tures included, it would then be such a veritable revela-
tion of marvels that those who had deemed themselves,
up to that time, well-informed Americans, would feel
that they were in a new, utterly foreign, and altogether
strange and marvelous land.
CHAPTER XIII
THE BIRDS OF ARIZONA
FROM the foregoing chapters the most indifferent
reader must have gathered that the topography and
climate of Arizona are wonderfully varied. The alti-
tudes change from those of the desert, in some places
very near to the sea level, to the snow-capped mountain
summits where Sierran trees abound. Naturally in such
varied conditions one may anticipate a wide range of
bird life. Merely to give a list of all birds found in
Arizona would be of no benefit to the general reader,
and useless to the scientist, whose knowledge far sur-
passes mine. But it will prove interesting to all if I tell
of Arizona bird life in its peculiarities, for in no other
State in the Union, perhaps, save New Mexico and Cali-
fornia, are the conditions for bird life so distinctively in-
dividualistic, and so thrillingly fascinating.
To go out any time of the year, winter as well as sum-
mer, and find the desert mesas literally abounding with
black-throated song-sparrows, never ceasing their sweet
and attractive song; to find the mountain blue-bird (bird
of happiness), blue all over, rich and attractive beyond
measure, by the hundreds around one's own home, in the
trees by one's own house ; to see the Bullock's oriole and
the Arizona hooded oriole build nest after nest of horse-
hair, persisting in making a home for himself and his
family five times in succession, after the rude winds had
blown them away ; and to enjoy humming birds and war-
blers, threshers and cardinals, as I have described them
151
152 Arizona, the Wonderland
later in this chapter — these are but a few of the common
delights of the most cursorily observant bird-lover in
Arizona, especially in the southern portion of the State.
Harry S. Swarth, in his Distributional List of the
Birds of Arizona, gives a total of three hundred and
sixty-two species and sub-species found within the State.
Of these one hundred and fifty-two are residents,
seventy-two summer visitants, fifty-seven winter visi-
tants, thirty transient, and fifty-one of casual occurrence.
To comprehend aright the annual movement of the
birds, as well as their regular habitats, one must recall
the various zones of diverse topography and climate
found in Arizona.
The Lower Sonoran Zone is the most extensive. It
includes the so-called desert areas. Almost the entire
portions of western and southern Arizona are included
within its area, and long narrow ribbons .of it extend
far up the Gila River and its tributaries, and also em-
brace the whole of the desert of the Little Colorado
River, which reaches the boundary line of New Mexico.
The Upper Sonoran Zone is much more limited, though
it embraces the northeast and northwest corners, to-
gether with a large area in the central part of the State,
with patches dotted here and there in the southeastern
portion. These patches are mainly no greater than the
belt of live-oak covered foothills occurring between the
higher mountains and the valleys below, and only seven-
teen birds are listed as belonging to this zone. On the
other hand, the Transition Zone, while much more limi-
ted in area, contains a far larger variety of bird life,
sixty species already being well-known. This zone in-
cludes the plateaus and mountains, yet a marked differ-
ence is found in the birds of the southern portion of the
State and those of the northern. The former, twenty in
The Birds of Arizona 153
number, summer resident and visitant, are related to the
Mexican fauna farther south, while the latter, forty in
number, summer visitant and resident, are more closely
related to the bird life of the Rocky Mountains or the
Sierra Nevada of California.
It is interesting to note that fourteen of the summer
visitants into southern Arizona are of tropical deriva-
tion, and come here merely during the heat of the sum-
mer, retiring again southward when the winter period
arrives. The result is that few birds are to be found in
the mountains of southern Arizona during the winter
months, and that the major portion of these are tempo-
rary visitants from the north. Hence central Arizona
may be regarded as the practical dividing line between
the birds of the North and those of the South, and that
here may be found a strange commingling of the two di-
verse fauna.
Above the great Mogollon Divide, on the Colorado
Plateau, one might imagine himself in the central Rocky
Mountains as far as the birds are concerned. Here are
the dusky grouse (Dendrgapus obscurus}, commonly
known as the pine-hen, scooting out of the tree tops in
whizzing flight and startling the unaware with the sud-
denness of their appearance. This bird feeds largely upon
the pine-nuts of the piny on trees, and its flesh is the most
delicious of any of the wild birds I have ever eaten. The
Alpine three-toed woodpecker (Picoides Americanus
Oorsalis), with his white-spotted body and wings and
dainty golden crown, climbs up the pines and spruces
of the San Francisco Mountain, while the white-crowned
sparrow (Zonotrichia cucophrys cucophrys}, has been
found in the same region in June, apparently breeding.
Grebe, mallard, blue-winged teal, shoveller, coot, pin-
tail and ruddy duck have all been found in the region
154 Arizona, the Wonderland
of the Little Colorado River, and the white-faced glossy
ibis, American bittern, black-crowned night heron, great
blue heron, little brown crane, sand-hill crane, sora,
black-necked stilt, wood ibis, American avocet and a
variety of sandpipers are by no means uncommon.
There is little doubt but that the great blue heron and
the wood ibis breed here, and a few observers have seen
the Anthony heron here, as well as the snowy heron. Now
and again one may also see the little brown crane, a smaller
brother to the sand-hill crane, which it much resembles.
The real bird lover can imagine the delight one feels
in finding such birds as the ibis, and stilt, and the rare
and dainty Anthony heron, all of which have been seen
in the region of the San Pedro River.
The sand-hill crane is a bird with which the Navaho
Indians are very familiar. Its peculiar call has a sacred
meaning to them. They imitate it as closely as they can
in their elaborate and wonderfully thrilling ceremonies of
the Fire Dance.
When I first visited Flagstaff, nearly thirty years ago,
the Mexican turkey was abundant in San Francisco
Mountain. Turkey Tanks receive their name from the
numbers of turkeys that used to be found there. On
several occasions I have gone with hunters and we never
failed to find turkeys. I do not know how true it is,
but it is said that the turkey is not found north of the
Grand Canyon. This may be so, as the Kaibab Plateau
has a much higher elevation than either the Colorado or
Mogollon Plateaus. But in the White Mountains they
abound, and one, taking a walk from the road, through
the open forest, at almost any time, is very likely to run
upon a single bird or a flock. Gambel's partridge was
also abundant in Cataract (Havasu) Canyon, and the
Havasupais used to snare them in large numbers.
The Birds of Arizona 155
Mourning doves used to be found in droves, but they
occur far less frequently now, and the road-runner is
occasionally seen. In the southern part of the State,
near Phoenix and Tucson, while automobiling and driv-
ing, I saw several in 1915, where they are quite common,
Of the hawks, the sharp-shinned and Cooper's are not
uncommon about the San Francisco Mountain and the
Grand Canyon and the flammulated screech owl has been
seen in the Canyon. The western red-tail is found al-
most all over the State, and when first observed by
Merriam in 1889, they were abundant in the San Fran-
cisco Mountain region, after August 6 and throughout
September. He says he never saw them so unwary.
" They were easily approached, either on horseback or
a- foot, and many were shot in the pines. They fed prin-
cipally on chipmunks (Tamias cinereicollis and Tamias
lateralis}, and occasionally captured the large Abert's
squirrel (Sciurus aberti)."
I have several times seen the golden eagle (Aquila
chrysaetos}, both in the winter and summer, north and
south, though never in the western portion of the State.
On the San Francisco Mountain and the Grand Canyon
it is not uncommon and it ranges eastward and south to
the Mexican line. The prairie falcon (Falco mexi-
canus} is also fairly common.
The American goshawk, Harris hawk, zone-tailed,
Swainson, Sennett white-tailed, Mexican black, Mexi-
can goshawk, American rough-legged, and other raptores
are found rarely or more or less abundantly. Various
owls also are found, some in quite large numbers, others
very rarely. Three of the hawks only, viz., the sharp-
shinned, Cooper's, and the western goshawk are destruct-
ive to the farmer's poultry. All the others are useful
through their destructiveness to insect and rodent pests.
156 Arizona, the Wonderland
The sharp-shinned and Cooper's hawks are veritable pi-
rates, and the small amount of good they do by the de-
struction of rodents is more than offset by their ravages of
the poultry-yard and their never ceasing war upon more
useful birds. The sharp-shinned may be distinguished by
his small size, having a body length of about ten inches ;
narrow, even-tail; perfect, darting flight; white breast
spotted with reddish brown, and slaty blue or bluish-
gray back. Cooper's hawk is slightly larger; the tail
rounded and characterized by black bands and a narrow
white tip, and the black top of his head contrasting with
the slaty blue of the back. His habits are much the
same as those of the sharp-shin, and he is equally de-
structive. The western goshawk is the larger of the
common hawks and the most destructive. But he must
not be confused with the black Mexican, slightly smaller
in size, and who has frequently suffered for the mis-
deeds of his larger cousin. No hawk should be shot
which displays red feathers on shoulders or tail, although
both the red-shouldered hawk and the red-tail are fre-
quently called hen-hawks, and are killed because of their
supposed depredations. Neither of these, however, has
been guilty of the least damage, save in the most excep-
tional instances, and the work they do in the fields in
clearing them of gophers, squirrels, mice, etc., of which
their food chiefly consists, is invaluable to the farmer.
The same may be said of the smaller hawks, and one
of the most foolish things a farmer can do is to shoot
them and the smaller owls. The monkey-faced owl, the
one most common in the irrigated Arizona valleys, unless
the little prairie owl is excepted, is one of the best feath-
ered friends that the rancher has, and should be pro-
tected.
Humming-birds of some species abound in the northern
Photograph by George Wharton James.
AN APACHE MAIDEN WATER-CARRIER AT PALOMAS, ARIZONA.
The Birds of Arizona 157
portion of the State. Merriam says of the broad-tailed
humming-bird (Selasphorus platycercus, Swainson) :
" It is very abundant in the balsam belt and the upper part of the
pine belt. A nest containing two nearly fledged young was found
on the limb of a Douglas fir, about four feet from the ground, July
31. The principal food plant of this humming-bird is the beautiful
scarlet trumpet flower of the Pentstemon barbatus Torreyi. During
the latter part of August and early September, after it has ceased
flowering, these birds were most often seen in the beds of the large
blue larkspur (Delphinium Scopulorum). They wake up very early
in the morning and go to water at daylight no matter how cold the
weather is. During the month of August, and particularly the first
half of the month, when the mornings were often frosty, hundreds
of them came to the spring to drink and bathe at break of day. They
were like a swarm of bees, buzzing about one's head and darting to
and fro in every direction. The air was full of them. They would
drop down to the water, dip their feet and bellies, and rise and
shoot away as if propelled by an unseen power. They would often
dart at the face of an intruder as if bent on piercing the eye with
their needle-like bill, and then poise for a moment almost within
reach before turning, when they were again lost in the busy throng.
Whether this act was prompted by curiosity or resentment I was
not able to ascertain. Several were seen at the summit of the
mountain during the latter part of August. They were found also
at the Grand Canyon of the Colorado, September 12-15. They began
to leave the mountain [San Francisco Mountain] during the first
week in September, and none were seen after the middle of the
month."
He who has seen such swarms of these dainty little
creatures, with their iridescent coats of delicate greens,
and throats of vivid scarlets, has had one of the most de-
lightful of experiences.
Another of the commoner species is the equally ex-
quisite and beautiful rufous (Selasphorus rufus). The
delicate browns of the body set off the reddish golden
glory of the throat and make this one of the joyous
sights of the mountains.
There are several other species, but none as common
158 Arizona, the Wonderland
as these, and they are generally found only in the south-
ern zones.
Of the humming-birds there are fourteen species found
in Arizona, as contrasted with eighteen in the whole
of the United States and Lower California. Hence it
would be peculiarly appropriate to denominate Arizona
" the land of the humming-bird."
Other common birds are the long-crested jay, Wood-
house's jay, the raven, crow, and piny on jay. The lat-
ter are noisy creatures, generally seen in flocks. I have,
met many of them in the Grand Canyon. On the other
hand, the Arizona jay (Aphelocoma siebcri arizona),
while found in numbers in the mountains of southeastern
Arizona is seldom, if ever, found as far north as Camp
Apache.
Another most interesting Arizona bird is the road-
runner. To see one jump towards the road as if to
certain death in front of a swiftly oncoming automobile
and then stop with suddenness, using its long tail as a
brake, is a startling surprise to him who sees it for the
first time. I used to regard as probably mythical the
stories told of this bird's habit of surrounding the sleep-
ing rattlesnake with pieces of cholla and other thorny
cactus so covered with thorns that when he awoke he
was unable to escape, when the fearless bird would de-
liberately pick him to death. But a short time ago, my
friend Dr. Mills, of San Bernardino, Cal., assured me
that he has the testimony of reliable witnesses, who are
ready to vouch for the accuracy of the stories. There
need be no question, however, as to the voracious appetite
of the road-runner. He will eat his own weight in in-
sects, centipedes, scorpions, small snakes, lizards and oc-
casionally mice and the smaller rodents, each twenty-four
hours. The current fiction that he is a robber of other
The Birds of Arizona 159
birds' nests and an eater of hen's eggs has absolutely no
foundation in fact, hence he should be carefully guarded
as a friend to the rancher.
The above paragraph in italics I had written as the
result of my own observations and the questions put to
scores of bird-lovers, ranchers, and others. Just as this
chapter is about to go to press I am creditably informed
by one of the most studious observers of Arizona's birds,
Mrs. J. W. Wheeler, of Tucson, that sometime ago she
succeeded in breeding and raising ten birds of a cross be-
tween a buff Cochin bantam and a Chinese ring-necked
pheasant. Such a cross being a great curiosity, as well
as a rarity, Mrs. Wheeler took great care of them, watch-
ing them daily. When they were about the size of a
quail one by one, each day, they began to disappear.
Aroused to desperation a rigid watch was set, and a
road-runner was found to be the murdering thief.
Furthermore, Mrs. Wheeler has seen him eat birds'
eggs. The first time she saw one he was eating a cactus-
wren's eggs. He is a voracious meat-eater, and Mrs.
Wheeler is assured that when he cannot get his usual prey
he undoubtedly lives on birds and their eggs. His
voracity is sometimes greater than his capacity, for a
year or so ago, Mr. Wheeler found a dead road-runner
on a sandy wash of the Santa Ritas. Picking up the car-
cass, he found one leg and the tail of a rat sticking out
of the mouth of the dead bird. With somewhat of diffi-
culty he succeeded in pulling the remnant of the rat out
of the bird's throat and then found to his astonishment
the head and the upper part of the rat's body partially
digested. The story was easy to read. The bird had at-
tempted to swallow too large a rat, had got it partially
down and into his stomach as far as it would go, when
he then choked to death, for, one leg of the rat had
160 Arizona, the Wonderland
wedged in the bird's throat, so that he could not eject
the creature he was unable to swallow.
My informant also assures me that the road-runner
will also eat large snakes. She once saw one catch a
gopher-snake of very large size. Taking it by the bill
near the end of the tail it slung him first to one side
and then to the other in a remarkably vigorous and
competent fashion. She also remarks that it builds a
poor nest, lays about seven eggs, some of which fall
through the bungling nest and are broken. As it begins
to incubate as soon as the first egg is laid, the young
birds come out of the eggs at separate times, and there-
fore it is seldom a road-runner raises much of a family.
There are four species of quail found in Arizona, all
of which are of peculiar interest. The masked bob-
white, which formerly occurred in the southern Santa
Cruz Valley, is now apparently extinct in the State.
Naturalists have been much interested in this beautiful
bird, as it is the western-most of the bob-whites. It
was always regarded as a Mexican habitant, as it was
never found far north of the border. For many years
in the early history of the State it was regarded as the
same bob-white of the Eastern States, and was abun-
dant, but it has not been seen for several years. One
writer says of them : " The bright, deep chestnut breast
plumage of the males looked red in the sun, and gave the
birds a most magnificent appearance." Their habits
were very similar to the common quail, and they uttered
the characteristic "bob-white" call, with bold, full
notes, perching on the rocks and bushes when calling.
They also had- a secondary call of hoo-we, articulated as
clear and clean cut as their bob-white. This they used
when scattered, especially near nightfall.
The next of the species is the so-called fool quail
The Birds of Arizona 161
(Cyrtonyx montesumae mearnsi), because of its habit
of lying very closely until nearly stepped upon, when it
takes flight. Its call consists of a series of notes slowly
descending the scale, and ending in a long, low trill, the
whole being ventriloquial in effect and most difficult to
locate. It is easily imitated, however, and the birds
readily answer when one whistles. It is very fond of
the rough, brushy hillsides. The male is of a warm
brown color, with spotted black and white breast and
chin, with white patches over the eyes. Fuertes, speaking
of his crest, says : " The most noticeable thing about
him as I watched him running was the curious use of his
queer little crest. Instead of elevating it as the mountain
quail does his, he raised his painted head on slim neck and
spread his flowing crest laterally, till it looked like half a
mushroom, giving him the most curious appearance im-
aginable."
The third Arizona quail is the scaled quail (Collipepla
squamata j.), which is the common species of the south-
eastern part of the State. In appearance it is very dif-
ferent from the Mearns. Soft-toned in color, with deli-
cate brownish-gray on back, its breast feathers of a
scale-like formation in delicate grays and browns, it is
as quiet and unobtrusive a bird as the fool -quail is at-
tractive and striking in color.
The fourth species, which is a steady resident, is the
desert quail (Lophortyx gambeli). It is readily dis-
tinguished from the former described species, its black
topknot coming out from a brown crest, the chin and
throat being jet black with a white band.
The scale quail has a restricted range of altitude,
seldom being found outside of the zone from three to
four thousand feet above sea level. On the other hand,
the Gambel quail ranges from high to low, being found
162 Arizona, the Wonderland
as high as six thousand feet, and down about to sea-level
at Yuma, and while some authorities claim it is almost
confined to the southern portions of the State I find it
has a much wider range. The Mearns quail is a tough
and vigorous bird and has a wide range also.
One observer recently has discovered a new species,
which clearly partakes of the distinctive characteristic of
both the Gambel and scale varieties. As it was found
at an altitude of three -thousand five hundred feet, where
these two varieties meet she thinks it very possible that
this is a cross between the two.
It will be interesting for bird-lovers to note that the
Arizona Forestry Service has recently released three
dozen Hunter bob-whites from the East, some in the
region around Tucson, and some in the Salt River
Valley. There, too, Mrs. Wheeler has been instru-
mental in having brought down a number of plumed
quail from Oregon which also have been released. This
is the largest quail in North America.
One of the many j uncos found in the State makes the
southern regions its permanent home. This is the Ari-
zona variety (Junco phaconotus palliotus). The red-
backed junco is found from the San Francisco Moun-
tains across to the eastern boundary, but not south of
the White Mountains. One of the rarer birds is the olive
warbler (Penccdramus olivaccus}, and it is not uncom-
mon also to find the Mexican chickadee (Penthcstes
sclateri}, though it is found only in the Chiricahua
Mountains.
Of peculiar interest is the tropical element distinguish-
ing the bird life of the mountains of extreme southern
Arizona, some of which, as the coppery-tailed trogon, the
olive warbler and some of the humming-birds, have al-
ready been referred to. Others are the thick-billed parrot
The Birds of Arizona 163
(Rhynchopsitta pachyrhyncha) , which comes irregu-
larly, though at times abundantly, into the Chiricahua
Mountains; the red-faced warbler (Cardellina rubri-
•frous), a beautiful gray-bodied creature, with a vividly
red face, with black head markings ; .the equally trim and
interesting painted redstart (Setophaga picta), found in
several mountain ranges; and the sulphur-bellied fly-
catcher (Myiodynastes lutewentris] y which is a fairly
common summer visitant in the higher mountain ranges.
There is another assemblage of birds whose associa-
tion with the giant cactus makes them of special interest.
The arid mesas, covered with the sahuaro, present any-
thing but a favorable aspect to the bird student. Never-
theless, many species occupy these regions, some of them
not occurring elsewhere. The gilded flicker (Eolaptes
chrysoidcs mcarnsi), is closely restricted to this plant,
being found abundantly where the sahuaro is most
plentiful, and disappearing east of the Santa Ritas where
the giant cactus is unknown.
The Gila woodpecker (Centurus uropygialis) also
seems to have a peculiar fondness for the same plant,
though it is found elsewhere. These two birds dig in-
numerable holes in the cactus, which, when they leave,
are utilized by other species. The elf owl (Micropallas
whitneyi) , a quaint, dun, brown spotted little creature, in-
variably flees to the giant cactus when breeding, and
other species which utilize the holes bored by the gilded
flicker and Gila woodpecker are the Arizona crested fly-
catcher (seldom seen elsewhere than among the sahu-
aros), the sparrow-hawk, sahuaro screech-owl, and purple
martin. The western red-tailed hawk and the western
horned-owl frequently nest in the forking arms of the
cactus. Then one must not forget the cactus wood-
pecker, with his red head and peculiar black and white
164 Arizona, the Wonderland
ladder-striped back. He is to be seen on the mesas, both
where the cactus abounds and elsewhere. He doubtless
nests in the chollas.
A few peculiarities of other Arizona birds may be
noted. The rivoli humming-bird, for instance (Eugenes
fulgens), is the largest known species in North America,
being only about five and one-half inches long. On the
other hand, the elf owl (already referred to) is the
smallest of the owls, and is no longer than the humming-
bird, though, of course, of greater bulk. The Inca dove,
too (Scardafella inca), no larger than an English spar-
row, though with longer tail, quiet in color as the mourn-
ing dove, nests commonly in gardens and parks in the
more southern cities, as Tucson and Phoenix. On the
Arizona jay one could well write a whole chapter, as he
could also on the life history of the white-necked raven
(Corvus crypt olenus} . The Arizona cardinal, pyr-
rhuloxia, phainopepla, and vermilion fly catcher are com-
mon and conspicuous species of notable coloration and
appearance. The cardinal, too, is fully a half inch
larger than the other largest variety in the United
States.
In the plains and valleys of Arizona typical desert
species are found. The threshers abound in the central
part of the State, both in species and individuals, while in
the lowlands of the south are to be found the Palmer,
Bendire, Leconte, Crissal, and, in the winter, the sage
thresher.
The Palmer thresher sings constantly throughout the
day in winter, but summer time is when he makes a real
business of singing. He then sings nights as well as
days, for if at any time during the night he should be
awakened, his little soul bursts forth into sweetest song.
The reason one of my friends gives for her strong
The Birds of Arizona 165
dislike of the shrike is that she once found one killing
a Palmer thresher, a bird much larger than itself.
Of the value of Arizona as a place for the study of
bird migration too much cannot be said. Indeed, as yet,
no author has begun to do the subject the justice it de-
serves. For instance, Arizona is the winter home of the
Audubon warbler. It breeds in the upper Sonoran
zone, and sometimes dots the cottonwood trees by its
great abundance. Its song is more steady and frequent
here than anywhere else that it has been observed, and it
seems to enjoy the charm of its own song.
One of the most beautiful sights ever observed was
seen recently near Tucson, which is proven to be the
winter home of the brilliant yellow-headed blackbird
(Xanthoclphalus x}. Over a thousand of them were
in one flock, and they lit upon a tree denuded of leaves.
Immediately, the tree seemed to spring into a new,
peculiar, and vivid life. The white, yellow, black and
various shades of the bodies and wings, moving and
iridescent in the sunlight, made a picture well worth
traveling many miles to see.
Then, too, two fine species of the purple gallinule,
whose normal habitat is British Guiana, were recently
found; also a cara-cara, that strange and peculiar mix-
ture of vulture and hawk found, as a rule, only in Cen-
tral America. It is not at all impossible to suppose that
they may both breed here, just as the robins, cactus-wren,
towhees, and Lewis woodpeckers from the North. They
are found here literally by the hundreds, especially in the
blind or headless canyons of the foothills around Tucson.
The Sonoran yellow warbler is also found here at
times. It is one of the daintiest of tiny creatures and of
the most delicate and beautiful shade of yellow. It fre-
quents the water courses, and is fairly abundant.
166 Arizona, the Wonderland
Another of the richest of treats is to sit, or stand,
and listen to that sweetest, gentlest, and most exquisitely
voiced of all the warblers, the verdin, which spends
winter and summer here alike. With its yellow head
and chestnut patch on its wings it is as pretty as its song
is entrancing. That visitor to southern Arizona who
fails to enjoy the song of this most perfect of quiet
singers, is as indifferent to rare bird music, as one who
goes to England without hearing a skylark.
The lark bunting also comes in the early fall. His
habits are pretty well fixed. At the time of his arrival
his plumage is gray and quiet, then it rapidly changes to
a perfect black and almost white. The peculiar habit of
these birds is to fly in large flocks, singing as they fly,
and one who has ever heard this moving feathered or-
chestra, making the vibrating atmosphere melodious and
harmonious with its unique songs, will never forget its
rare enchantment. They leave here from the first to the
third of May — seldom can one be seen after the fifth —
and return about the fifth of August, with their young.
They go to the Platte and Mississippi Valleys to breed.
A complete chapter could be written upon the birds
found on the Lower Colorado River, which, as is well
known, forms the boundary between Arizona and Cali-
fornia, but this would be of interest only to the technical
ornithologist. To these reference is made to Joseph
Grinnell's Account of the Mammals and Birds of the
Lower Colorado Valley, published by the University of
California.1
Few people know the difficulties and hardships under
1 To Harry S. Swarth, both by his letters and his Distributional
List of the Birds of Arizona, and to Dr. Joseph Grinnell, Professor
of Biology of the University of California, and his assistant Miss
Wythe, I am under considerable obligation for material assistance
while writing this chapter.
A TREE AND CANAL LINED STREET AT CHANDLER, ARIZONA.
The Birds of Arizona 167
which the ornithologists labor who study the birds of the
giant cactus region. The following picture is from one
of Mr. Swarth's bird articles, and is illuminating in more
ways than one.
"Just north of our camp was a steep circular hill, apparently of
volcanic origin, covered with loose black boulders, and rising abruptly
from the sea; other similar ones were also scattered irregularly
through the valley. The only growth on the hill was a giant cactus
(Cereus giganteus), with which huge plants the southern slope was
thickly covered, there being none upon the opposite side. Out on
this hill, exposed to the full glare of the Arizona sun, in June, we
found it impossible to work except in the early morning and late
in the afternoon, being driven to shelter in the middle of the day.
It is no joke to carry a twenty- foot ladder about on level ground,
from one cactus to another, but on the steep hill side, stumbling over
loose boulders, dodging cactus, and with the perspiration running in
one's eyes, a person feels that he earns pretty nearly all that he suc-
ceeds in getting. The cactuses on this barren, unattractive looking
hill were particularly rich in bird life." 1
1 The Condor, January, 1905, p. 23,
CHAPTER XIV
THE FLORA OF ARIZONA
IN her floral displays Arizona is as wonderful, as
marvellous, as varied, as captivating, as astonishing as in
her scenery, her geology, and her Indians. To most
readers it may sound absurd to state that she has al-
most as large and indigenous a flora as has California, and
that the gamut she plays upon is nearly as wide and
varied, yet it is true. It is equally as true, though ap-
parently absurd, that — if Gifford Pinchot's word may be
taken — Arizona contains the largest pure yellow pine
forest in the known world — Arizona, the arid, the
bleak, the desert, the barren, the land that God forgot!
There are only two other States in the Union that have
as large and varied a grass flora; and in her grama
grasses (Bouteloua sps) she leads all the others. She
stands in the front rank in the number of her indigenous
trees ; in the wealth of her indigenous peas, having over
three hundred species, clovers or legumes, and in her
large fern flora ; and as for cactuses, she leads the United
States in their diversity and number. New Mexico has
about sixty different varieties, California about forty,
while Arizona possesses over one hundred.
Perhaps these remarkable statements are made pos-
sible because of other remarkable conditions, viz., that
Arizona ranks next to California in extremes of alti-
tude, in extremes of summer and winter temperature,
and in extremes of rainfall. The visitor cannot climb
168
The Flora of Arizona 169
quite as high, or descend quite as low as in the Golden
State, but he can pretty nearly. The thermometer does
not swing with quite as wide a sweep, and the rain
curve reaches a little less angle than in California. But
in these things she leads all the rest of the States, and
therein is found the secret of the marvellous flora she
possesses.
Arizona has altitudes varying from slightly above sea-
level to eleven thousand feet. This means practically
that her climate ranges from tropical on the one hand
to the freezing zone on the other. A temperature of
one hundred and twenty degrees Fahr. in summer is not
uncommon in some regions, and thirty degrees Fahr. be-
low zero has also been registered in high mountains. On
the summits of some of the peaks frost has been found
every night in the year.
The rainfall also varies from two to three inches on
some portions of the southern deserts to as high as
thirty-five inches on the tree-covered plateaus of the
north.
Of the yuccas, agaves, cactuses, chollas (pronounced
locally choy-ya), and other peculiarly desert and west-
ern plants one might write a volume. Bourke thus
speaks of what he saw riding from Old Camp Grant to
Tucson :
" All the way, on both sides of the road, and as far as eye could
reach, we had in sight the stately mescal, loaded with lovely velvety
flowers ; the white-plumed Spanish bayonet, the richly green palo-
verde without leaf; the chollas, the nopal, the mesquite, whose
'beans' were rapidly ripening in the sultry sun, and the majestic
' pitahaya ' or candelabrum cactus, whose ruby fruit had long since
been raided upon and carried off by flocks of light-winged humming-
birds than which no fairer or more alert can be seen this side of
Brazil. The 'pitahaya' attains a great height in the vicinity of
Grant, Tucson, and MacDowell, and one which we measured by its
shadow was not far from fifty-five to sixty feet above the ground."
170 Arizona, the Wonderland
This "pitahaya" of Bourke's is the giant cactus (Ce-
reus giganteus) also known as the sahuaro (sometimes
spelled saguaro) and it is the " tree " of the desert.
Thousands of them are to be found in various parts of
the State, as, for instance, around Tucson, and west of
Kingman on the line of the Santa Fe. They are almost
peculiar to this region, in the United States, though
common enough in some parts of Mexico. For many
years it was supposed they did not grow in California,
but over twenty years ago I found quantities of them in
secluded and little known areas on the western side of
the Colorado River. They are really trees in size, grow-
ing to the height of twenty, forty, and more feet, and
sending out huge branches, which, however, have none of
the slender grace that most tree-branches show. On the
other hand these saguaro branches are almost thick as
the main trunks, and they are stumpy and thick at the
ends, as if they were arms growing out of the bodies but
the hands and fingers had not yet appeared.
The shafted flickers and woodpeckers tap their fluted
exteriors, and build moist, cool nests for themselves in-
side, and elf owls, those tiny specimens of the owl
family, also nest in them. During the rainy season these
veritable reservoirs of water slowly fill themselves, the
" flutings " of the trunk expanding or opening like the
plaits of an accordeon. When the water disappears
there is corresponding shrinkage. They generally flower
in May and June, blooming most abundantly on the
sunny side of the tree. The flowers are handsome,
whitish and waxen, and very perfect in form.
It might be noted that the sahuaro is a type of desert
tree life. In general, no matter how large the tree the
leaf is exceedingly small. Some kinds have scarcely
any. Undoubtedly the ancestors of these trees had
The Flora of Arizona 171
leaves, but in the arid condition of the desert the leafy
varieties disappeared and those that were able to protect
themselves with spines remained. Thus the thorny
varieties have propagated and improved themselves by
unconscious selection.
It has long been known that if certain varieties of
wild desert cactuses were not protected by their bristling
armour of spines — thorns so sharp and stiff that they
penetrate thick leather — they would soon disappear.
Prowling animals like the coyote, rabbit, rat, as well as
the burro, horse, mule and roaming cattle would speedily
eat up every shred. Sometimes, even with their natural
protection, they were eaten, and large areas of them al-
most entirely swept away. This was deemed the action
of animals rendered desperate for want of food and
water, and allied to such acts as the eating, by the Donner
Party, of the rawhide coverings of their wretched shacks
in the fierce throes of approaching starvation.
But it is now known that if the thorns were not there
these desert plants would be eaten with eager delight.
The cattle enjoy them when the thorns are removed.
This was proven conclusively during a season of severe
drought, when forage grasses were exceedingly scarce,
and the thorns were burned off by means of a plumber's
torch. Yet the botanist regards the thorns as perverted
or changed stems, branches and leaves. The strong light
of the desert reduces the size of the leaves.
At the foot of the low mountains, and on the level
places, are to be found many chollas, generally known as
cactus, though the scientist classifies them as opuntias.
The term cactus in the West is a very general one.
Any flora with spines seen in the desert, and even the
yuccas and agaves, are commonly spoken of as cactus by
the uninformed. Arizonans, however, have learned to
172 Arizona, the Wonderland
differentiate to some degree, and they speak of saguaros,
chollas, yuccas and cactus, but in a very loose and inac-
curate manner. For instance, there is a large barrel-
shaped, thorny specimen, common all over desert Ari-
zona. It is called bisnaga by the Mexicans and some
Americans, and the fish-hook cactus, barrel cactus, nig-
gerhead, and candy cactus, respectively, by others.
Most people speak of the cat's claw (Acacia greggii) as
a cactus, and few realize that the common chollas and
what they call prickly pears, with their large, flat, heavy
joints are technically opuntias. The pin-cushion cactus,
to the scientist, is Mamillaria grahami and the rainbow
cactus, Echinocerus rigidissimus.
The barrel cactus has some of the characteristic ap-
pearance of the sahuaro, but in reality is very different.
This is the cactus that has saved the life of many an
early day desert traveler. Cut through its outer protec-
tion its melon-like interior (though much firmer than a
melon) may be pulped up into a drinkable consistency,
and thus give one the saving draught that defies death on
the desert. It is also cut up into cubes or sliced and
made into delicious candy. Then, too, it is called fish-
hook cactus on account of the shape of its thorns. En-
tirely different are the thorns of the giganteus.
The chollas are many and various. Those who are
attracted to cactus generally favor these on account of
their halo of ivory colored, opalescent needles, which
glisten in the sun like a veritable spirit halo of ineffable
and rare beauty. The cactus wren, too, loves the cholla,
for many a nest is to be found among the spines, and
the tiny bird sits and sings its cheery song to the
passer-by — no! he sings to his mate, or for his own
joy, and the passer-by may enjoy the concert if he will.
There are the many spined or ball cholla (Opuntia bige-
The Flora of Arizona 173
growing at the foot of the low mountains, and the
common cholla (Opuntia spinosior) with showy flowers
of many colors, ranging from deep magenta to light red,
pink, yellow, and even white; its fruits green or light
yellow, tinged with red, making it one of the most at-
tractive of all these prickly species. Then there are the
jumping cholla (Opuntia fulgida), so called because the
old prospectors, cowboys, soldiers and others, who used
to have to sleep out on the desert, as well as wander or
travel over it during the day, always affirmed that if you
merely looked at it this cholla " jumped at you and stuck
you like a cursed Apache." Its flowers are a light rose
with little variation, but it has dense chain-like masses
of fruit It is one of the most abundant and character-
istic of the chollas.
There are many other varieties, all of which repay
study, but which appear very much alike to the ordinary
observer, though the flowers are very different one from
another, some being greenish-yellow to reddish-brown,
golden-brown, light purple, deep magenta, light red,
lemon-yellow, light yellow, yellow with tinges of red at
the base of the petals, yellow with orange at base. An
unnamed species of the prickly pear has a golden-yellow
flower in the morning, which changes to orange and
finally deep orange in the afternoon.
The most spiny of the chollas is the Bigelowii. It
grows to a height of from three to six feet, and is tree-
like in form, rather erect, and compactly branched. The
entire plant is covered with an impenetrable coat of
white, glistening spines and is most attractive to the eye
of the person who can forget the piercing quality of the
thorns.
The young blossoms of one cholla (O. arbuscula') when
plunged into hot water for a few moments and then dried,
174 Arizona, the Wonderland
makes an excellent salad, with a flavor that many people
find most agreeable.
Prickly pears are often called nopals in Arizona.
They have flattened pear-like lobes or joints, and their
flowers are usually larger than those of the chollas and
yellowish or golden to deep orange in color. The fruits
are quite soft and juicy when ripe, and are a conspicuous
feature, being deep red or magenta in color. They ma-
ture during July to September or October, inclusive, and
unless utilized in some way soon become overripe and
spoil. The rabbits, gophers, field-rats, birds, bees, and
certain fruit-eating beetles and cattle feed on them at this
time and seem to enjoy them amazingly. The Indians,
too, have always regarded them as a great delicacy.
They are wonderfully expert in impaling them on a
wooden skewer, cutting off the spicules or thorns and
eating them. They also make a jam or preserve of
them which, where one does not understand the method
of manufacture, may be eaten with a certain degree of
relish. But when I saw how it was made my gorge
arose, and ever arises, as I think of the process. The old
squaw, after removing the thorns, placed the whole fruit
in her mouth, chewing it up, and a continuous stream of
the small seeds of the fruit came out of the southeast
corner of her mouth, while the " meat " came out at the
southwest corner. The seeds were discarded, and the
fruit duly cooked. Indian jam has had no attractions
for me for many years !
One of the cactuses (Echinocerus Engelmanni} has a
fruit that the Indians are very fond of. As soon as it
ripens the thorns drop off. Then the Indians pick it,
cook it, and eat it with great relish. I have eaten it only
twice, but each time with a desire that I might have it
often as a pleasing addition to one's dietary.
Flowers of the Prickly Pear, one of the Desert
Cacti of Arizona.
From a Water Color Painting especially made for this work b\
Mrs. J. W. Estill.
The Flora of Arizona 175
The ocatillo is another interesting plant that arrests
the attention of the observer. It grows out, in some-
what sprawling fashion from a common center, as flow-
ers with long stems sprawl in a too-open bowl. It has
the appearance of a mass of rude grayish-looking sticks,
varying in height from six to twenty feet, entirely with-
out branches, and armed their whole length with thorns,
hence its common names, " Devil's Coach Whip,"
" Devil's Claw," etc., etc. When the rains come the
thorns are hidden behind tiny leaves that remind one of
young apple leaves, and then there spring into being
those exquisite and attractive flowers in clusters from six
to ten inches long, composed of hundreds of scarlet blos-
soms, each about an inch long, suggesting a flame, or a
banner, waving to and fro in the wind with startling
effect against the gray desert sand. Then it is known
as the " Flaming Sword," or the " Candle Flower," and
the scientist labels it Fouquiera splendens. There is only
one genus of this plant and but few species, this being
the one commonly seen in Arizona.' Curiously enough
the ocatillo is not a cactus.
There is another species — the hedgehog cactus —
often seen in the neighborhood of the Grand Canyon.
This forms a clump of several cucumber-like stems,
armed with bunches of long spines, and with flowers two
or three inches long, with deep red petals, dull pink
anthers, and a bright green pistil.
Another kind may be seen here, sometimes suggesting
a kind of clump of desert sea-urchins. This is the pin-
cushion cactus (Cactus grdhami) of the mamillaria group.
It is a quaint little plant, often no bigger than a billiard
ball, but its flowers are pink and attractive, and its
berries smooth bright scarlet. It grows singly or in
clusters.
176 Arizona, the Wonderland
The night-blooming cereus (C. greggii) is also a na-
tive of Arizona and often delights the eye of the desert-
wanderer in his camping-out expeditions. The rare
and delicate beauty of this exquisite blossom can never
be adequately described. It is one of these objects one
must see for himself. It blooms from about the middle
to the end of June, and without question, has the most
beautiful flower of the State. Its flowers are about
twelve inches long and six inches in diameter, and are
of an exquisite cream occasionally tinged with lavender,
with myriads of fine, hair-like, long stamens. As its
name suggests, it blooms after sunset, and just before,
or immediately on sunrise, it closes up its blossoms.
Mrs. J. W. Estill, of Tucson, whose artistic painting of
a desert cactus I am able to reproduce on another page,
has about two hundred of the night-blooming cereus in
her garden, and it is no uncommon thing, at times, to
have as many as one hundred of them bloom in a single
night. When not in bloom the plant looks like a half
broken, dead stick. From this rude stem shoots up this
rare and precious blossom.
Captain Bourke was profoundly impressed with Ari-
zona flowers or he could not have written as he did :
" The floral wealth of Arizona astonished us the moment we had
gained the higher elevations of the Mogollon and the other ranges.
Arizona will hold a high place in any list that may be prepared in
this connection ; there are as many as twenty or thirty different
varieties of very lovely flowers and blossoms to be plucked within
a stone's-throw of one's saddle after reaching camp of an evening, —
phloxes, marguerites, chrysanthemums, verbenas, goldenrod, sumach,
columbines, delicate ferns, forget-me-nots, and many others for which
my very limited knowledge of botany furnishes no name. The
flowers of Arizona are delightful in color, but they yield no perfume,
probably on account of the great dryness of the atmosphere.
" As for grasses, one has only to say what kind he wants, and lo !
it is at his feet — from the coarse sacaton which is deadly to animals
The Flora of Arizona 177
except when it is very green and tender; the dainty mesquite, the
bunch, and the white and black grama, succulent and nutritious."
The italics are mine. Professor Thornber, whose au-
thority is unquestioned, assures me that sacaton will not
injure stock at any time. I merely quote Captain
Bourke in order that one may see how easily wrong
impressions are gained and passed on to others.
Merely to describe accurately the species of grama
grasses would require many pages. As I have already
remarked, Arizona possesses more varieties of these ex-
cellent fodder grasses than any other State in the Union.
The chief varieties are known as blue, white, hairy,
side oats, wert, sprite e-t op, crow-foot, low and black
grama.
The real Spanish bayonet (Yucca baccata} is found
in Arizona, including the Grand Canyon region, in large
quantities. It is sometimes known as the banana yucca
on account of its banana-like fruit, which the Indians
roast in the ashes as we roast potatoes. It then has a
pleasant fruity-flavor. The Navahos use this in their
magic ceremonies during the preliminaries to their re-
nowned Fire Dance, which is one of the marvels of the
West.
Another form of the yucca, common in the eastern
and southern part of the State, is the Palmea (Yucca
data), and the century-plant (Agave palmeri) is found
in the lower altitudes.
Other of the commoner desert plants are the creosote'
bush (Covillea glutinosa} ; the mesquite (Prosopis velu-
tina) ; the ironwood (Olneya tosota} found in the west
and southwest; the cat's-claw (Acacia greggii) ; the
palo verde (Cercidium torreyand) or tree of green
sticks, found in central western and southwestern Ari-
zona; the bagote (Parkinsonia aculeata), also called the
178 Arizona, the Wonderland
palo verde, though a different species; the smoke tree
(Parosela spinosa), so-called because it often deludes
the weary desert-traveler into supposing at dusk that he
is approaching the column of smoke ascending from a
camp-fire; the desert willow (Chilopsis linearis) ; the
desert juniper (Juniperus utahensis} commonly spoken
of as the cedar; the alligator-bark juniper (Juniperus
pachyphlcea) ; the nut pine, or pinyon (Pinus edulus), the
delicious nut which forms a staple article of the diet of
the Indians, — Navahos, Havasupais, Wallapais, Hopis,
etc., — who are near enough to the plateaus to gather
them. This nut, by the way, has a large market in Ari-
zona, Nevada, California, and even in the East, though,
owing to the fact that, as yet, no machine has been in-
vented for shelling it, its use is much more limited than
it otherwise would be. Thousands of pounds of a similar
nut are annually imported from Italy, which, in time,
should be supplied by the Arizona-grown article, for it is
far sweeter and more delicious in flavor.
Other trees are the one-leaf nut pine (Pinus mono-
phylla} ; the common yellow-pine (Pinus ponder osa) ;
and the native cottonwood. This latter is in several va-
rieties, one (Populus MacDougali) being found in west-
ern and southern. Arizona, while another (P. acuminata),
is found in the east and the north. It is also called the
narrow-leaved cottonwood. Nearly every desert stream
is lined with one or other of these trees, their pale trunks
and light green leaves soon becoming a distinctive fea-
ture of Arizona landscapes. There are at least four
other cottonwoods.
In the Havasu (Cataract) Canyon is a wonderful pro-
fusion of willows which line the creek for miles.
Bourke, than whom no man knows Arizona better,
says:
The Flora of Arizona 179
"At times we would march for miles through a country in which
grew only the white-plumed yucca with trembling serrated1 leaves;
again, mescal would fill the hillsides so thickly that one could almost
imagine that it had been planted purposely; or we passed along be-
tween masses of the dust-laden, ghostly sage-bush, or close to the
foul-smelling joints of the ' lediondilla.'"
The yucca referred to is sometimes called the Spanish
bayonet (Yucca baccata). This is a noble plant, with
its cluster of sharp bayonets as the base, from which rises
a shaft crowned with a cluster of flowers. These are
waxy, cream-colored blossoms, sometimes tinged with
purple, crowded so close together along the upper part
of the stalk that the effect is a great, solid mass of bloom,
three feet long. When the sun shines upon it at certain
angles it needs little stretch of the imagination to see it
as a glorious golden candlestick flaming before the hill-
side altar of God's majesty and sublimity.
The mescal is a common variety of the agave, or cen-
tury plant, from the leaves of which the Mexicans and
Indians both make an intoxicating liquor. Another
yucca-like plant is the amole, or soap root, which has a
slender shaft crowned with a cluster of white flowers.
The root has been used from time immemorial by In-
dians and Mexicans for soap. It is pounded between
two stones and produces a fine lather.
The peculiar climatic conditions of Arizona make its
winter flora essentially an annual flora. The summers
in the valleys are so hot that all except the hardiest
plants are short-lived. When the rains begin the growth
begins, when the rain ceases, or soon thereafter, the life
of the plant ends, and in that brief period must be its
growth — blossom, fruit, seed. But in the winter the de-
velopment is more slow. The cold retards growth.
During this time the plants develop a good root sys-
1The leaves are not serrated but filiferous.
180 Arizona, the Wonderland
tern, sending their roots as far down as possible, or, in
the case of the lily family, or tubers, storing water in
their bulbs for the following year's growth. The In-
dians hunt for many of these bulbs and regard them as
especially delicious additions to their diet.
The winter plants, thus provided with an abundance of
moisture, are ready for the warm days of February, and
flower and seed with great rapidity, though their leaves
and rosettes are a long time in preparation, growing
slowly into vigor, ready for the brief, quick, flowering
time.
On the other hand, the summer plants are shallow
rooted, come up as soon as they have moisture, and have
a life ranging about six weeks or two months. If there
is a drought for ten days many of them disappear.
But none of them — practically speaking — can be made
to grow in winter, no matter how warm the weather
may be, and equally so, the winter growers never bloom
in summer, no matter how cold it may be. They are
certainly saturated with the individualistic spirit of the
age.
It must never be forgotten that Arizona has many
wonderful mountains, eight, nine, ten, eleven, twelve
thousand feet in height. In the shadowy places of these
peerless peaks, where springs are numerous, ferns of
great variety and entrancing beauty abound. Few
States in the Union can show so wonderful a collection
of indigenous ferns, but to describe them with accuracy
would require a small volume.
After a rain at the proper season the desert sands
blossom forth into a gorgeously glowing carpet of ra-
diant beauty. Here you may find the desert lily (Hes-
perocallis undulata}, with its pure white flowers deli-
cately striped with pale green and blue on the outside,
The Flora of Arizona 181
with yellow anthers and a white stigma, while its buds
have a bluish tinge. It reminds one much of the Easter
Lily and sends one's thoughts rambling off over the
world's oceans and countries to far-away Palestine, and
all that Easter means springs into thought-life at the
sight of these exquisite and dainty blossoms.
There are remarkable differences between the winter
and summer floras of Arizona. In the colder months
the alfilerilla springs up with great rapidity and carpets
the mesas and valleys with its fern-like leaves, and pur-
ple-pinkish flowers. When young it forms rosettes close
to the ground, but grows taller and more straggling. The
ovary is beaked by the united styles, and the beak, when
the seeds ripen, separates into five long tails, which twist
spirally when dry and untwist when moistened. Hence
the children's name for them, " clocks." Other names
are pinkets, pin clover, stork's bill, but the commonest
name of all is " filaree," a corruption of the Spanish
alfilerilla, from alfiler, a pin.
On the other hand, a rather rare plant is the phacelia
(Phacelia glechomaefolia) which may be found now and
again in the Grand Canyon in shady places. There the
flowers are often quite white, though under better con-
ditions they are usually violet. Another variety of
phacelia (P. crenulata], the desert heliotrope, is one of
the striking plants, standing from six to eighteen inches
tall, with purplish stems and handsome coarse foliage,
all rough, hairy and very sticky. The flowers are lilac,
with purple stamens and pistil. Still another phacelia
is named Arizonica and is a small desert plant, not at
all pretty, the flowers coming in tightly coiled clusters,
the general effect being mauve. The phacelia distans
is also fairly common. Now and again, in the protected
canyons, I have found the pretty whispering or golden
182 Arizona, the Wonderland
bells, (Emmendnthe penduliflora) , with their pale yellow
corollas. At first they are erect, then they gracefully
droop until they hang down on their slender pedicels.
When they wither they become quite dry and papery
and as the wind shakes them they give forth a gentle
sound, which makes one think of fairy bells.
Somewhat similar in general appearance to the pha-
celias are the numerous borages which are found in the
Grand Canyon and all over the State. These generally
have rough, hairy stems, about a foot tall, with yellow
or white flowers about one-fourth of an inch long in ef-
fective coiled clusters. The green leaves of the young
plants are eaten by the Pima Indians. The nievetas is
another fairly common plant with pretty little white
flowers, each with a yellow crest in the throat. It some-
times grows in patches and then covers the ground
around with white, like a light fall of snow, hence the
name, which is diminutive for Nieve — Spanish for
snow.
Saccato Gordo belongs to this same family. It has
bright orange, red-spotted flowers, but the foliage is
very harsh. It is very common in southern Arizona
and forms rank thickets in fields and waste places. It is
so valuable for grazing that it was called by the Span-
iards saccato gordo (Amsinckia tessellata) , which means
fat grass.
There are also the comb-seed (Pectocarya linearis),
also called the tufted borage, and the stickseed (Lap-
pula occidentale} , the name being given because the nut-
lets are armed with barbed prickles, forming burrs.
The poppies are not forgotten in Arizona, the native
poppy (Eschscholtzia Mexlcana) being found in many
places ; its cups, however, generally being of a paler yel-
low than the deep golden sheen often found in California.
The Flora of Arizona 183
There are also the dainty and attractive cream cups
(Platystemon Calif ornicus), their slender hairy stems
crowned with creamy blossoms that whiten the mesas
and valley meadows.
The evening and desert primroses (Lavauxia primi-
veris}, sometimes called sun cups, with no stem, but at-
tractive nevertheless, the flowers with long, slender calyx-
tubes, resembling stems, springing from a clump of rather
downy root-leaves, often greet the eye. I have found
them all over the State.
Of the sunflowers there are several varieties, the golden
gailliardia (G. Arizonica), and the Arizona dandelion
(Malacothrix glabrata), being the most common. The
latter is a very attractive plant, with several flower stalks,
which spring from a pretty feathery tuft of bright green
thread-like root-leaves, that are often tinged deep red.
In the rocks, with attractive flowers and foliage, one may
often see the slender and bent stems of the Senecio Lem-
moni, named after my old friend John G. Lemmon, who,
with his wife, botanized all over this wild country, when
the Apaches and Navahos were on the warpath. There
is also an abundance of yarrow, desert-snow (Eriophyllum
lanosum) on the mesas of the northern part of the State,
and the desert stars (Eremiastrum bellioides) are often
found. Then, too, there are the tallow weed (Picra-
denia odorata), and the miasma weed, or golden crown
(Verbesina encelioides) , neither of them having attrac-
tive names, yet, often, at a distance, masses of these
flowers have a most striking and attractive appearance.
The Indian paint brush (Orthocarpus purpurascens)
is also common, more particularly on the northern
plateaus. The Spaniards and Mexicans call this Esco-
bita, which means little broom. There is also a smaller
variety known as the owl's clover (0. purpureo-dlbus) , a
184 Arizona, the Wonderland
pretty annual, which occasionally has branches like a
candelabrum. It is found only in the high regions.
Of the mustards Arizona has its full share. The
flowers of this family spread out their four petals in the
form of a cross. They generally grow in clusters and
are very attractive to honey bees. Thousands of people
have seen and enjoyed the beautiful clusters of magenta
flowers of the Arabis eremophylla at the Grand Canyon,
and the peculiar title Dithyrea wislizeni at the Petrified
Forest. This latter grows from six to twelve inches high,
with small white flowers, and funny little seed-pods stick-
ing out at right angles from the stem. Then there is the
shield-leaf (Streptanthus Arizonicus}, with arrow-shaped
leaves, with a bloom and tinged with purple on the back.
The sepals are pearly-white, the petals yellowish and
veined with purple. Another member of the same family
is the Golden Prince's Plume, so-called by Helen Hunt
Jackson, author of Ramona. The flowers are bright-
yellow or cream-colored, and they are arranged in the
form of a long feathery wand. Growing near to Tucson,
among the rocks on the hillside near the Desert Labora-
tory, may be found a few Dryopetalon runcinatum, with
its half-inch wide flowers, consisting of a lilac-tinged
calyx and white petals, prettily toothed, forming a dainty,
rather flat-topped cluster. White bladder-pods, too, are
not uncommon in the mountain canyons, and the yellow
variety may also be found. Indeed this is named after
Arizona (Lesquerella Arizonicd).
Even more prolific than the mustard family is the pea
family, over three hundred species alone being found in
Arizona. The deer-weed (Anisolotus Wrightii), is a
valuable bee-plant, the flowers clustering in close little
bunches along the stem, forming wands, and are some-
what reddish. Then there is the golden pea, sometimes
The Flora of Arizona 185
called the buck-bean (Thermopsis Montana}, often called
the false lupine. It is a very handsome, thrifty-looking
plant about two feet high, its smooth bright green foliage
contrasting finely with the clusters of clear yellow flowers,
each about three-quarters of an inch long. Then of the
lupines, the mesas at times are brilliant with them, the
blue lupine (Lupinus sparsiflonts) , and the sand lupine
(L. micensis} being the most prominent. In addition,
there are the hairy pea (Anisolotus trispermus}, and the
Texas pea (Astragalus nuttallianus) , the latter belong-
ing to the milk-vetch, or loco-weed family. The cow-
boys fairly dread the sight of some species of these
plants, for the stock eat them and deaths are not uncom-
mon from their poison. Two other varieties of the loco-
weed are found in the Astragahis Nothoxys, with rich
purple flowers, shading to white at the base, and the A.
MacDougali, which is a very attractive plant with pale
lilac and white corollas, and a hairy calyx, forming pretty
clusters about two inches long. Of the sweet peas, there
are the narrow-leaved (Lathyrus graminifolius) , one of
the commonest and most welcome to the eye.
The plantain family is well represented in the southern
and more barren regions in the Indian wheat (Plantago
fastigiata), a most valuable forage for stock. There
are several distinct species of this.
The gilias are to be found occasionally carpeting the
desert floor for miles, the two commonest varieties being
golden hills (Gilia aurea), which, as its name implies,
has a rich yellow color, and the downy gilia (G. floccosa),
one of the tiny, dainty desert plants, that with its blue
flowers is always so welcome.
There are also the wild buckwheat (Eriogonum race-
mosum) with its pale downy stem and small white and
pink clusters of flowers and the buckwheat bush (E.
186 Arizona, the Wonderland
•fasciculatuwi) , which grows one foot high, with feathery,
flat-topped clusters, and the sulphur flower (E. Bakeri),
so called because of its sulphur colored flowers. This lat-
ter is found only in the summer. Then, too, on the
plateaus of the Grand Canyon region one will often find
the bottle-plant (E. mftatuwi), with its extraordinary
shaped and swollen hollow stalks, and its peculiar swollen
branches, on which tiny yellow flowers appear.
Of the pigweeds there is the desert lamb's-quarter
(Cheno podium incanum}, and the hop sage and tumble-
weed. These latter are often to be seen in droves, driven
before the desert winds. Then there are the patota
(Monolepsis Nuttalliana) , and the desert saltbush (Atri-
plex elegans) , a shrubby saltbush now used as a hedge in
the most fashionable gardens of San Diego, Santa Bar-
bara, etc., on account of its dainty, elegant, and attractive
appearance.
One who observes will also see the slender fescue
(Fcstuca octoHora), and the annual spear grass (Poa
Bigelowii).
Of the mallow several are found. In the mountains
of southern Arizona one sometimes may see the Arizona
wild cotton. It is a fine shrub from four to eight feet
high, with smooth leaves, and cream-white flowers tinged
with pink on the outside. The scarlet and salmon mal-
lows (Sphaeralcea pedata and S. Coulteri') are very com-
mon, their graceful wands of brilliant bloom, shading
from luminous scarlet to clear pale-orange giving delight
to all who see them. The low mallow (Malvastrum
exile} is neither as common nor as attractive, yet it is
often found and is valuable as a forage in spring.
Here are the Bronze Bells, that of course Frank Mil-
ler of the Glenwood Mission Inn, at Riverside, Cali-
fornia, would call Mission Bells, and no one could find
The Flora of Arizona 187
fault. For, dear little silent bells, they have their mis-
sion which is to bloom even though only the Grand
Canyon — this desert of rudely carved rock — sees them.
Yet as visitors go down the trails they find them, often in
large numbers, and they bring cheer, refreshment, and
delight. Nodding on their slender stems, much like
bronze in color — a kind of greenish-yellow, streaked and
spotted with maroon — with long curling tips of a three-
pronged pistil, their weird beauty is both alluring and
satisfying.
In the dry season one may often find the beds of
streams and rivers fairly covered with acres of the bee-
plant (Cleome serrulaia) . The smooth, branching stem
is sometimes as much as eight feet high. The buds are
purple, and the delicate flowers, with threadlike flower
stalks, grow in a handsome feathery cluster, sometimes
two feet long, with numerous bracts. It is because the
leaves of this plant, when crushed, give off a rank, un-
pleasant smell, that it is commonly known as skunk-weed.
Certain of the sunflower family are found in profusion
in summer, among others the tansy aster (Machaeran-
thera tanacetifolia) , the yellow weed (Eriocarpum gra-
cile), and the golden crown, or miasma weed, already de-
scribed.
Then who that has wandered over Arizona's hills and
plains in summer has not been attracted to the thousands
of trailing four o'clocks (Allionia glabra}, the narrow-
leaved umbrella wort, and the pink sand verbenas
(Abronia zrillosa).
There are several kinds of purslane found in Arizona,
among which are the common pursley (Portulaca olera-
cea), and the desert rose-moss (P. pilosa}, the latter
being especially dainty and attractive at a short distance.
Then there are the desert purslane (Calyptridium monan-
188 Arizona, the Wonderland
drum), and the carpet-weed (Mollugo verticillata) .
Of the morning glories the principal ones are the com-
mon purple one (Ipomoea purpurea}, the blue (/. hede-
rocea) and the scarlet (/. coccinea).
Another common flower found in many of the canyons,
plateaus, and desert areas in the State, is the datura, or
jimpson weed (D. mcteloides} . The white flowers are
sometimes ten inches long, tinged with lilac outside, and
droop like wet tissue paper in the heat of the afternoon
sun. The medicine-men of the Navahos and other In-
dians often use it to produce the same effects that the
dervishes of Africa produce with hasheesh. I have seen
them, often, in a perfect frenzy, dancing, shouting, ges-
ticulating, prophesying under its effect. The Havasupais
dread it, and though it grows commonly in their glorious
canyon home, teach their children to shun it as being as
dangerous as " bad white man's bad whiskey."
One also sees the bledo, or careless-weed (Amaranthus
Palmeri), one of the tumble-weed family, and the fringed
amaranth. But one of the commonest of plants is the
Mexican poppy, so-called because of its superficial resem-
blance to a poppy. The mesas become covered with it,
and for the short period of their blooming they make of
the desert floor a rich, glowing carpet of color. There
are a number of varieties of the Calthrop family, of which
the Mexican poppy is a member, to be found blooming in
the summertime.
It has been claimed by some writers that many of the
wild flowers of Arizona were introduced by the Spaniards,
and the lilies, narcissus, amaryllis, rosemary, lavender,
etc., have been specifically named as introductions. But
Professor Thornber assures me that all the flowers with
but one or two exceptions are indigenous.
And now that I have come to the end of my space for
The Flora of Arizona 189
this chapter I look over the list and find I have omitted
the dainty Mariposa lilies, seen early in May in the Grand
Canyon, the irises, or blue flags, which are to be found
about Flagstaff and at high altitudes elsewhere in the
State, the yerba mansa, or lizard's tails (Anemopsis
California}, the pale comandra (Commandra pallida),
of the sandalwood family; various sandworts which
climb the highest mountains; the several kinds of blue
larkspur, which the Spaniards and Mexicans still call
Espnela del Caballero, the Cavalier's spurs. Then there
are the canyon anemone (A. Sphenophylld) ; the trailing
barberry; and the shrubby hydrangea (Fendlera rupi-
cola). This latter is found in great quantities in the
Grand Canyon and is a tall, handsome shrub, covered in
May with white blossoms. The small syringa (Phila-
dclphus microphyllus} , nothing like as beautiful as the
California variety, is often found, and at the Grand Can-
yon one may see the Apache plume, growing to the un-
usual height of four or five feet, with pale, woody branch-
ing stems. The flowers are white, something like a wild
rose in shape, with beautiful golden centers. Then there
is Fendler's wild rose, the fern bush, the silky cinquefoil,
the fairy dusters, and the deer brush, or mountain lilac,
the snowy ceanothus, which covers the mountainsides with
its drifts of bloom and fills the air with delicate perfume.
Thus one comes to realize the wonderful variety of the
Arizona flora, its exquisite and beautiful as well as its
rarely unique qualities, and the more he knows the more
he enjoys and appreciates it.
CHAPTER XV
THE SYMPHONY OF THE MINERALS
JUST as certain lands are the natural home of the
Troubadours, Singers, Romancers, and Poets, so is Ari-
zona the land of the Mineral. Gold, silver, copper, tur-
quoise, malachite all sing the song of her glory and unite
in a symphony of her progress and advancement.
From the earliest explorations of the Caucasian race
within her borders precious metals were found. Coro-
nado looked for them in 1540, but he wanted them already
mined, already made into vessels, already minted, and was
too disappointed in not finding them to realize what he
overlooked. Espejo came half a century later and found
rich mines in quantity; Onate followed, and from that
time on the clang of the hammer on the drill was heard
throughout the land, and the smoke of the reduction
furnace was seen ascending through the pure blue of the
Arizona atmosphere. To-day ruins of many ancient
adobe furnaces and other devices for the extraction of
the precious metals are often found, and piles of slag,
some of it rich in unextracted wealth, give evidence of the
richness of the ores discovered.
To-day Arizona leads all of the States in the produc-
tion of metallic wealth. The total money value of the
product of Arizona's mines is nearly $203,00x3,000 per
year, leading Montana, Michigan, Colorado, Alaska, and
Nevada. Arizona leads the world as a copper-producing
country, as will be seen on reference to the chapter on
Cochise County.
190
The Symphony of the Minerals 191
Oatman is Arizona's latest boom-camp, yet it is not a
new camp. For many years two of its mines have been
well-known as dividend-makers. In 1914 the dividends
of the Tom Reed mine amounted to $627,000 or sixty-
nine per cent of its issued capital. In six years it pro-
duced over four millions of dollars and paid dividends
of almost two millions. It has been producing $100,000
per month from four thousand tons of ore, with but
twenty stamps and a working force of about one hundred
and fifty men. The Gold Roads mine is still older than
the Tom Reed, and has its well developed bodies of
ore.
In the last few years mining in Arizona has been con-
ducted on a much safer and surer basis than ever before
in its history. This is owing to several important factors,
all of which have contributed to this end. These are,
First — The new, improved and cheaper methods of ex-
tracting the mineral from low-grade ore ; Second — The
control exercised over stock and other financial operations
of new and old mines by the State Corporation Commis-
sion ; and Third — The fact that in connection with its
university the State has its Bureau of Mines, under com-
petent, scientific and practical direction. Its function is
thus stated :
"To conduct in behalf of public welfare such fundamental in-
quiries and investigations as will lead to increased safety, efficiency,
and economy in the mining industry of Arizona. The work fol-
lows two broad lines that are of the greatest concern — the safe-
guarding of the lives of the miners and employees of the metallurgi-
cal and mineral industries and the development of more efficient and
less wasteful preparation of our mineral resources."
Thus miner and operator are both helped; the pros-
pector is encouraged and guided ; the small-capitaled mine-
owner is aided to find methods by which his mine may be
192 Arizona, the Wonderland
worked at a profit to him, instead of conditions compel-
ling him to transfer his interests, for a small and alto-
gether inadequate sum, to the wealthy persons or corpora-
tions who alone have the funds for developing which make
profitable operation possible. Then it is well to have
some official guard energetically exercised in reducing the
hazards of the occupation, preventing the accidents that
annually carry off many lives, and, as far as may be, the
unfavorable conditions in many mines and metallurgical
plants which endanger life, or reduce unnecessarily the
vitality of employees.
While the Bureau of Mines is allowed by law to make
qualitative tests of rocks gratis, and also to answer defi-
nite questions as to the presence of certain minerals in
samples sent in which can be answered without an assay,
it is not allowed to do assaying except on receipt of the
fee, which is established by law.
The actual work of the Bureau has done service
of inestimable value to the State. Having gained the con-
fidence of both miners and operators it has accumulated a
vast amount of knowledge, practical, scientific, and theo-
retical, pertaining to the mines. Being constantly called
upon to give helpful suggestions it has gained a knowl-
edge of ores and their handling not possible to those
working only in a limited field. The result is that, being
also a Department of the University of Arizona, the
Bureau is able to impart a rare and unusual quantity of
eminently practical knowledge to its students. It is in
these serviceable lines that most mining schools have
failed, yet it is self-evident that practice should accom-
pany and go hand in hand with theory. The useful-
ness of the education received is enhanced by the fact
that the United States Bureau of Mines, working co-
operatively with the State Bureau of the University, and
The Symphony of the Minerals 193
having its complete assaying plants and laboratories here,
is able to give its aid and counsel.
In furtherance of its practical work the College of
Mines sends out printed lectures and bulletins of general
and special interest and lecturers who go wherever re-
quired in the State for organizations, towns, cities, or
camps where special knowledge is asked. It also has a
correspondence school which seeks to increase the effi-
ciency of all who take its courses, though they may be
unable to attend the actual sessions of the college.
In its personal educational plan it seeks to begin at
the foundation of mining knowledge, and lead its stu-
dents up, step by step, to its higher and more scientific
branches. Practical work in prospecting and in field
geology is required, then when it comes to the reduction
of ores and extraction of metals, opportunities are af-
forded of engaging practically in cyaniding at Pearce,
Tombstone, and Wickenburg; concentration at Hayden,
Globe and Miami, Inspiration and Ajo; and smelting at
Douglas, Hayden and Globe. Mining methods under-
ground are also taught in the great mines at Ray, Bisbee,
Globe, Miami, and Ajo. Thus the student gets into
the very atmosphere of the life he is later expecting
to live, and his education has that positive quality of
fitting him for the work he expects and desires to
do.
When it is realized that twenty-five per cent. — one-
quarter — of all the adult males in Arizona are engaged
in the mining industry, in one form or another, the im-
portance of this college in training its future workers
is apparent. Its present director, as he has been from
the day of its inception and organization, is Charles F.
Willis, to whom I am much indebted for many of the
facts of this chapter, and from whom, by addressing him
194 Arizona, the Wonderland
at Tucson, Arizona, the important bulletins of the Bureau
may be obtained.
This digression — a most important and necessary one
— was suggested by the comparison instituted in my
own mind between the old and the new methods of min-
ing. Progress in methods is in the air. Efficiency, the
prevention of waste, the heightening of power and ability
are new watchwords of the age. How often, in the older
days, thirty and more years ago, have I sat with the old-
time prospector, as he rested after his evening meal by
the side of his tiny camp-fire, and listened to his wonder-
ful stories of great strikes, and how near he himself
had several times come to making his " eternal fortune."
Then, too, I have seen this same old prospector make his
tests for minerals and wondered at his simple, primitive
and crude methods. Education is changing all this ; yet
it is to be regretted that we are rapidly losing one of the
picturesque features of our earlier-day pioneer civiliza-
tion.
What rugged, out-of-door men they were! Generally
large, bearded, rudely-clothed, rough-spoken, they were
full of courage and types of determined persistence.
They were nearly always accompanied by a burro, or two,
on which their " grub-stake," a few tools, a gold-pan, a
roll of blankets and a gun were packed. Hour after
hour, day after day, they wandered up the ravines and
gulches, over the foothills and into the canyons, up and
down the slopes of the mountains, eyes ever downcast,
alert for " float " that might indicate the presence of the
precious metals. What danglings of " great strikes "
hung perpetually before their eyes ; what alternations of
stupendous hopes and colossal fears of glorious ex-
hilarations and fearful depressions they suffered! Yet
they persisted, tortured with fierce and biting cold, frost,
The Symphony of the Minerals 195
blizzards, ice, and snow in winter, with, in summer, pene-
trating, scorching, and withering heat, swirling dust-
devils, parching desert and alkali playas, driven crazy
for want of water, or insane by overwhelming and suffo-
cating sand-storms. How can one help the inflooding
of his soul with a feeling of profound sympathy for these
brave men and a corresponding appreciation of their dar-
ing persistence.
Then there was another and somewhat later type,
though both classes existed side by side. This was the
settled prospector, who found a promising region, built
himself a log hut, a stone cabin, or a shake shack on the
mountain or canyon side, near " wood and water " if pos-
sible, and then resolutely put in his time driving a few
drill holes here and there to test what his more cursory
investigations had promised.
Were you ever with such men overnight, or for a week
or more? I count it one of the rich privileges of my
rather varied life that I have been allowed to associate
intimately with them. They can teach much to the man
of faith, courage, persistent determination and cheerful
optimism. And when it comes to yarns, stories, tales,
Edgar Allan Poe, Bret Harte, Mark Twain, Jack Lon-
don, O. Henry, Frank Norris, Rex Beach, Stewart Ed-
ward White, Peter Kyne and Booth Tarkington combined
cannot equal them in thrilling interest, blood-curdling ef-
fectiveness, absorbing fascination, and downright con-
vincing, all-pervading, satisfactory lying! I know more
than half a dozen prospectors all of whom at one time
owned the United Verde Copper Mine — of course when
it was a prospect One of them sold it for a burro; an-
other for a quarter of venison ; another for one hundred
and fifty dollars cash ; another for a one-eyed mule ; and
still another for a few plugs of tobacco. And as they
196 Arizona, the Wonderland
told me they sat spitting tobacco juice into the little camp-
fire and ruminating upon what they " might have been "
had they had the foresight to hold on. For the United
Verde to-day is worth into the millions — nay, scores of
millions — and it is doubtful if it could be bought at any
price.
The prospector of the future can never be the pic-
turesque liar that the prospector of the past has been.
The big surface bodies have practically all been found,
and prospecting now must be for the deeper bodies of ore,
or for greater bodies of low-grade mineral that, by
modern processes, can be worked in vast quantities at a
profit. He must change in other respects, also. He
must be educated, at least, in the fundamentals of geology
and mineralogy. It must not be possible for him, as
one prospector recently did, to send in a specimen of
sodalite, which has no value, and suggest that it be
assayed for gold, silver, lead, copper, platinum, molyb-
denum, vanadium, tungsten and bismuth. And this
request was no joke. He seriously thought he had struck
a universal ore and deemed himself already richer than
Clarke, of the United Verde, John P., John D., and the
other Croesuses of our Western World.
Such men as this have often stood in the way of legit-
imate mining development. Their exaggerated, because
ignorant, notions of the values of their prospects have
led them to ask exorbitant prices in cash for that which
the working miner regarded as at least somewhat of a
risk. For, no matter how favorable outside and pros-
pect indications may appear, it takes time, knowledge,
energy and much capital to put a prospect upon the pay-
ing basis of a real mine. Prospectors too often complain
that capitalists wish to crowd them out by demanding a
controlling interest in their properties before they will
The Symphony of the Minerals 197
advance the needful capital for development, and some-
times this is true. But, as a rule, the criticism legiti-
mately lies in the other direction. The prospector places
an unreasonable valuation upon his mere prospect and
expects either an impossible cash payment for it, or a
large and major holding of the stock issued to secure its
development. Education will show him the foolishness
and impossibility of both these attitudes.
Of the "wild cat" mining schemes of which Ari-
zona has been the object and the victim, much could be
written. Every wild cat proposition is a definite and
certain injury to the real mining interests of the State,
and every good citizen not only frowns upon them, but
condemns and seeks to expose them. The Corporation
Commission of the State is now required by law to pass
upon and approve all stocks — mining or otherwise —
before they are allowed to be offered for sale.
Furthermore, Arizona has so many legitimate mines,
and such a preponderance of honest prospects, that no
careful and reasonably cautious person need be afraid
to engage in the industry. And when one considers the
large incomes, let alone the vast fortunes that mines have
made, and are making every year in Arizona, it can well
be seen why the State is so proud of its mineral wealth.
It should not be forgotten, also, that the Arizona Chapter
of the American Mining Congress maintains an office in
Phcenix, with local branches in Globe and Tucson, the
main object of whose activities is to bring together sellers
and buyers of mining properties.
Here are a few points the prospective purchaser of a
mine should insist upon from the owner : A map of the
relative location of the claims; one of the district, espe-
cially if other mines of importance are located in it,
which shows their location and their relative location to
198 Arizona, the Wonderland
the claims offered; an assay map, showing where cer-
tain ores were taken and certified copies of the assays;
exact measurements and full particulars of all the de-
velopment work done; exact particulars of the veins or
other ore bodies uncovered, with the assay values before
referred to ; its relation to transportation, fuel and water
and relative or exact costs of these important items ; the
possibilities of mill- or dam-sites, if these are likely to be
needed ; the accessibility to the claim, etc. These are all
important, and the wise contemplative purchaser will not
spend a cent upon any project where these particulars are
not readily forthcoming.
I wish now to give a few particulars of some of the
great mines of the past and present, with some of the
reasonably assured outlooks for the future.
Ever since American occupancy of Arizona, there have
been persistent rumors of " lost mines " of fabulous
wealth in the Santa Cruz Valley region that used to be
worked by the Mexicans, and earlier still by the Span-
iards, as far back as Kino's day. The only foundation
the historian can find for these vague rumors is that in
1736—41 a marvellously rich deposit of silver was dis-
covered between Guevavi and Saric. A crowd of treas-
ure-seekers poured into the region, but, as it was not
a mine, but a criadero de plata, the king of Spain, in
accordance with kingly custom, claimed it as his
own.
There seems no justification for the assumption that
the Jesuits worked rich mines in Arizona, further than
Kino's reports to his superiors and the king of Spain
stating valuable deposits of gold and silver had been
found, and that "even in sight of these new missions
some very good mining camps of very rich silver ore are
now being established."
The Symphony of the Minerals 199
The Santa Rita, and several other mines, however,
were undoubtedly worked prior to the possession of
Arizona by the United States, and to these reference is
made in the chapter on Santa Cruz County.
One of the noted mines of its day was the one dis-
covered by Jackson McCrackin in southern Mohave
County, about six miles north of Bill Williams Fork, on
August 17, 1874. For a while it yielded as high as
$200,000 per month, mainly from a stringer of high-
grade lead carbonate, found within a vein over eighty
feet in width. The ores at first treated averaged about
seventy-five dollars per ton in silver and twenty per cent,
lead, but the lead percentage increased and the silver
decreased, until, about 1881, operations were practi-
cally at a stand still. McCrackin was an important fig-
ure in early Arizona politics, and in due time married
Josephine Clifford, the widow of a former army officer.
She has written much about Arizona, and is still en-
gaged in writing on a Santa Cruz, California, daily,
though nearly eighty years of age. She was honored
with a " Day " set apart and named for her by the offi-
cials of the Panama-California International Exposition,
at San Diego, in 1916.
The Vulture was another famous mine. Over ten
millions of dollars were taken from it before 1890, for
many an old-timer " told me so." It was discovered in
1863 by Henry Wickenburg, from whom the town, eleven
miles away, on the Santa Fe, Prescott & Phoenix, was
named. Report also has it that when first worked the
mine was almost a pile of loose rock, with gold visible
anywhere across a thirty-foot ledge. Miners became
rich by simply filling their pockets or lunch cans with the
quartz which was about half gold. For a while the ore
was worked in arastras, and at one time more than forty
200 Arizona, the Wonderland
of these old-fashioned mills were at work on Vulture
ore. In 1865 two mills were built, one of them repay-
ing its builder at the rate of $3,000 a day as soon as it
began operations, but ore soon decreased in value, though
in 1866 the main claim was sold to Phelps of New York
for $75,000. About 1873 it shut down, and it has had
many and varied vicissitudes. It is now in the hands
of a new company which has found ore almost as valu-
able as that of the pioneer days, so, in the words of a
recent Arizona orator, " the old bird is now holding up
her head and again giving forth her raucous cry in proud
triumph."
The story of the Copper Queen, the great wealth -pro-
ducer of Bisbee, is told in the chapter devoted to that
city and the county of Cochise, and the stories of other
old and new mines are told in other pages, as recorded
in the Index, to which the interested reader is referred.
Few mines in the world have been more widely
heralded than the United Verde, commonly known as
Senator Clark's Copper Mine. I could write a book on
the stories given to me by prospectors and others as to
the original ownership of the prospect, what it was
sold or traded for, and of the subsequent fortunes of the
poor fellows " whose find had made that fellow Clark
rich."
To attempt to give a reasonably accurate and con-
nected story of the ups and downs, the good and ill for-
tunes, of the camp before it came into Senator Clark's
hands would require more space than is at my disposal.
Suffice it to say, a claim was located in 1877 and called
the Verde. Adjoining claims were filed upon in time,
and bought, sold, traded, stolen, abandoned and relo-
cated. Finally, in 1882 F. F. Thomas went over the
region, saw or imagined the possibilities, got an option,
The Symphony of the Minerals 201
went East, raised the money, organized the United Verde
Copper Company in 1883, with James A. McDonald as
president, and Eugene Jerome as secretary and treas-
urer, left New York March 2$d of that year, soon started
a fifty-ton furnace and made a great run on oxidized
ores, giving large returns of silver. A town site was
laid out and named after the secretary, Jerome.
Of course when copper went down to seven cents a
pound the mine suffered. It was in a most inaccessible
region. Expenses of freighting, etc., mounted up fright-
fully, and though men with considerable money and in-
fluence took hold of it, there was a time when the miners,
not being paid their wages, threatened to take possession
and destroy the plant. Dr. James Douglas examined the
property but deemed it too far from transportation facili-
ties to be worked profitably. Then came Clark, who
leased it in February, 1888, and when his co-workers had
made runs and completed examination he bought con-
trol in 1889. By 1894 a narrow-gauge road was built
to connect with the branch line running from the Santa
Fe main line to Prescott and Phcenix. It is one of the
most tortuous and winding railways in the world, but it
led to one of the most rigidly conducted of mining camps.
For twenty-five years it has been producing enormously,
and the miners claim they are working in a mountain of
almost solid copper that also contains valuable and profit-
able amounts of silver and gold. It is common talk that
no one man is allowed to work all over the mine so that
he can know what it is as a whole, and the story is also
told that on one occasion an eastern magnate asked for a
price on the property. He was told that he could send
his own engineers and buy it at his own price on the
mere computation of the mineral actually in sight.
When this was found to amount to over a thousand mil-
202 Arizona, the Wonderland
lion dollars the offer to purchase was withdrawn. And
so the stories go. Yet here is one of the latest facts.
It was long ago decided that it was not an ideal concep-
tion that led to the location of the old smelter and town
on top of the mine, when far finer locations could be had
in the valley. So, though its initial cost was found to
be not less than six millions of dollars, it was decided to
build the new town of Clarkdale, on the west side of the
Verde River, six miles away. The new smelter has an
initial capacity of twenty-five hundred tons a day, as
compared with the old one, which could handle from a
thousand to twelve hundred tons. This increased capac-
ity will allow the milling and smelting of lower grade
ores than was possible in the old plant, as well as give a
greater profit in the handling of the high grade ores. A
standard gauge railway, thirty-nine miles long, is now
operated from the Santa Fe to Clarkdale, which passes
through a territory rich in smaller mines. With a
smelter so close at hand ready and willing and capable of
reducing their own ores, these mines will now be able to
operate, and a large activity is bound to ensue.
It is not out of place here to refer to a most important
phase of present day Arizona mining. It is preeminently
a pioneer in new processes. At the New Cornelia, for
instance, low grade ores are being handled by the steam
shovel, and careful experiments conducted to find the
most effective and economical processes. Mines that are
foremost in this particular are the Inspiration Consoli-
dated, at Miami ; the Copper Queen, which is one of the
Phelps-Dodge properties ; the Commonwealth, at Pearce ;
the T-P property, in the Senator District, Yavapai
County; and the Arizona Copper Company, at Clifton,
where leaching is being followed in treating its tailings
from its oxide concentrating plant. All these experi-
The Symphony of the Minerals 203
ments are in the hands of the foremost metallurgists of
the world and cannot fail to result in great and lasting
benefit to the mines of the State, as well as of the outside
world, and they represent a noteworthy feature of Ari-
zona's mining progress.
Profitable placers were discovered in Arizona in early
days by miners passing through to or returning from
California, even as early as "the days of old, the days
of gold, the days of '49." But nothing more than the
most desultory kind of work was done until 1858, when
the gold placers of the Gila were discovered, some twenty
miles above the junction with the Colorado, but extend-
ing for several miles along the river. A new town
sprang into existence, called Gila City, and over five
hundred miners were at work here at one time, some of
them taking out large quantities of the precious metal.
But the richest diggings were too far away from the
river, dry-washing not being successful enough to be
profitable, and the difficulties of getting water too great to
be overcome, so before the year 1862 the place was prac-
tically abandoned and the buildings washed away by the
flood of that year.
Most of the miners, however, found occupation in a
new " discovery." Thirty or forty miles up the Colo-
rado from Yuma, Herman Ehrenburg started a town that
bore his name, and five or six miles away in the Arroyo
de la Tenaja gold placers were found in January of 1862.
For a time the Los Angeles papers were full of boom-
ing accounts of the new discoveries and a population
variously estimated or reported at from five hundred to
as many thousands was at work. Large amounts of
coarse gold were gathered, but, although a good-sized
town sprang into existence, by 1864 it was practically
deserted. When I visited the ruins some fifteen years
204 Arizona, the Wonderland
ago one could see the hopes which had animated its
founders. But Ehrenburg was almost deserted and La
Paz entirely so. And if there is anything on earth more
depressing than the ruins of a once-active mining camp,
I do not care to be brought under its influence.
In 1863, the Weaver placers were discovered near An-
telope Mountain, about eighty-five miles northwest of
where Phoenix now stands. For a time they yielded
heavily. Then " Rich Hill," " Lynx Creek " and other
mines were discovered, all of which were more or less
productive for several years.
Las Guijas placers are described in the Santa Cruz
County chapter.
There are many other placer deposits in Arizona.
Those in the Plomosa District, in Yuma County, lying
east of the Colorado River between the Plomosa Moun-
tains and the Castle Dome Range, give a return of sixty-
four cents per cubic yard. Twenty-five dollar nuggets
have been found. The district covers approximately
seven thousand five hundred acres, and in 1912 pro-
duced almost $10,000 by panning after rainfall.
The San Domingo Wash, in northern Maricopa
County, covers an area of twelve hundred feet by two
and a half miles, with a reported average of forty cents
per cubic yard. There is a possibility of water storage
for this field.
The Leviston district has about three hundred acres of
placer ground, running from fifty to seventy-five feet in
depth, which has yielded in tests from three cents to
twenty-eight dollars per cubic yard.
The Old Hat district covers an area of twenty-five
thousand acres, with an average thickness of one hun-
dred and fifty feet. The Quijotoa and Greaterville
districts in Pima County have both been worked inter-
The Symphony of the Minerals 205
mittently with more or less success, but in the most in-
different manner, for many years past.
As soon as capital is available, or newer methods of
working them are discovered, Arizona's placers will un-
doubtedly mean millions of additional returns.
It would take a volume as large as this to tell of all
the fraudulent mining schemes of which Arizona has
been the victim. The scoundrels who perpetrated these
frauds not only injured the innocent persons who were
taken in by them but also injured the reputation of the
new country.
The " Lost Mine " myth, as well as that of the " An-
cient Spanish Mine " has been worked to the utmost.
Thousands of dollars and scores of lives have been lost
on these two false trails alone, though there is just
enough color of truth in both of them to deceive the
honest simpleton.
In 1899 Governor N. O. Murphy issued a formal let*
ter of warning addressed to outside investors in AH"
zona mines, frankly stating that men in the Territory
were making false and fraudulent claims and bidding
every one beware. A certain " Doc " Flowers, a true
Get-Rich-Wallingford character, was swindling eastern
investors right and left on his Spenazuma mine, located
in Graham County, which, while he claimed it to be the
richest mine in the world, was surpassed by scores of
unpretentious Arizona prospect holes.
Warner, of Safe Cure and Observatory fame, whose
telescope is now at the Mount Lowe Observatory over-
looking Pasadena, bought the Hillside group of mines in
Yavapai County for $450,000 on which he paid $50,000,
cash. While ordinary stock sold at $1.00 per share, he
also issued one hundred thousand shares at $5 each, on
which he personally guaranteed a cash dividend of thir-
206 Arizona, the Wonderland
teen per cent. At Warner's failure, soon after, the mine
reverted to its original owners and the stockholders could
do nothing but protest, without avail.
The Arizona Diamond Swindle, of 1872, became of
almost international fame, and it was exposed by Clar-
ence King, the geologist, whose Mountaineering in Cali-
fornia is one of the classics of Western literature.
I can remember when a New York firm had the coun-
try excited over a so-called great platinum discovery in
Havasu (Cataract) Canyon. I was forbidden to go
into the Canyon by the farmer of the Indian Agency,
who had received orders from the Agent to allow no
person, under any consideration, to visit the region of
the claims. I knew the place well, knew there was no
suggestion of platinum in the region, and fought the
scoundrelly attempt to deprive the Havasupais of the best
part of their reservation and their privacy and security
by a fraudulent mining claim. It was soon demonstrated
there was no platinum in the region.
One might write very learnedly about the many kinds
of minerals found in Arizona. This, however, is un-
necessary, for the list has been prepared, up-to-date,
and a copy of it may be had from the Director of the
State Bureau of Mines, at Tucson. It is a compre-
hensive list and shows that over one hundred and twenty-
five distinctive minerals are found in greater or lesser
quantity, and more or less paying amounts.
Of the wealth of the State gained from minerals the
following tables will give some competent idea :
1915 1914
Tons ore (all kinds) mined 9,612,559 8,009,927
Values recovered:
Copper, pounds 459,972,295 393,017,400
Gold, ounces 201,513 208,957
Silver, ounces 5,649,020 4,377,994
The Symphony of the Minerals 207
1915 1914
Lead, pounds 21,738,969 15,003,068
Zinc, pounds 18,220,863 9,792,337
Estimated tons copper ore in 1916 pro-
duction 10,000,000
Estimated recovery of copper (pounds)
from ore tonnage, 1916 600,000,000
Copper ore concentrators and tons treated
daily, 1913, seven plants 14,000
Copper ore concentrators and tons treated
daily, 1916, seven plants 40,000
Smelters operating and rated capacity,
1915, nine plants, capacity
(pounds) 450,000,000
Smelters operating and rated capacity,
1915, nine plants, capacity
(pounds) 600,000,000
Market value of Arizona metals, 1914 $ 59,956,029
Market value of Arizona metals, 1915 90,806,349
Number of men employed in Arizona
mining and ore reduction (ap-
proximately) 30,000
Annual amount paid in wages, more than $ 40,000,000.00
Capitalization of the eleven companies
outputting the bulk of Arizona
copper 64,000,000.00
What 6 per cent, interest on this invest-
ment would mean annually 3,840,000.00
Dividends paid by eleven Arizona copper
companies, 1916 (estimated) 30,000,000.00
Total valuation placed for taxation pur-
poses on mining property in 1915,
based on production 159,109,288.80
Total dividends of record paid by Arizona
copper producers to date 225,000,000.00
These eleven producers are, in the
order of dividend amounts paid,
Copper Queen, United Verde, Cal-
umet & Arizona, Arizona Cop-
per, Old Dominion (combined
companies), Detroit Copper, Su-
perior & Pittsburg, Miami Cop-
per, Shattuck-Arizona, Shannon
Copper, Ray Copper.
208 Arizona, the Wonderland
Dividends and profits earned by small 1915 1914
copper producers, of which there
is no complete record, approxi-
mately 20,000,000.00
Dividends from gold, silver and lead pro-
duction of early days, much of
which no records were kept, esti-
mated 100,000,000.00
Total estimated profits paid by Arizona
mines from all metals 345,000,000.00
Arizona's output of metals, by counties, is shown in the following
table, which gives the metallic output of each county, and the total
value for 1914, and also the output of ore and the average values per
ton compared for 1914 and 1915. (This list is given on page 209.)
The following summary was issued by the Arizona
State Bureau of Mines, January, 1917, showing the fig-
ures for Arizona Mines in 1916.
" The output of gold, silver, copper, lead, and zinc from mines in
Arizona in 1916 had a record total value of nearly $203,000,000,
compared with $90,806,349 for 1915, according to the estimate of
Victor C. Heikes, of the United States Geological Survey, Depart-
ment of the Interior. The notable output of copper and the high
prices of metals both assisted in this increase of 123 per cent. There
were record productions, also, of gold, silver, copper, lead, and zinc.
"The production of gold from Arizona mines increased from $4,-
166,025 in 1915 to approximately $4,427,000 in 1916, an increase of over
6 per cent. The production of gold from copper ores in most counties
was naturally greater than in 1915, but there was a marked decrease
in the output of bullion from amalgamation and cyanide mills, par-
ticularly in Mohave and Maricopa counties. Several new gold mines
were added to the list during the year, especially in the Oatman
camp, Mohave County, but the production was not sufficient to offset
the decline in the output of the older properties. A new 2OO-ton
mill was being completed for the United Eastern property, and con-
siderable ore was opened at the Big Jim and Gold Ore mines.
" The production of silver from the mines increased from 5,649,020
ounces in 1915 to a record output of about 6,823,000 ounces in 1916.
As the market price was much higher, the value increased from
$2,864,053 to nearly $4,490,000, an increase of nearly 57 per cent in
value. There was no great change in the production from the Com-
monwealth property which is principally a silver producer, so the in-
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210 Arizona, the Wonderland
crease is to be credited largely to the remarkable output of copper
ore.
" The mine output of copper surpassed all records and estimates,
as it increased from 459,972,295 pounds in 1915 to approximately
693,000,000 pounds in 1916. The value of the output, on account
of the unusual market, increased from $80,495,152 to nearly $190,-
000,000. The increase of 135 per cent in the value of copper alone
in Arizona was therefore more than the value of the total output
of the state in the previous year. All the smelting plants of the
state were worked at full capacity and made much greater ship-
ments of copper bullion. The plant at Sasco, in Pima County, was
again operated and made a large contribution. The Inspiration mine
was milling nearly 500,000 tons in August and was producing 11,000,-
ooo pounds of copper, an output that made it one of the largest
producers in the state. The Ray Consolidated, Miami, United Verde,
and United Verde Extension made great increases. The Swansea
property, in Yuma County, made a larger output, and a large leach-
ing plant was being constructed at Ajo, in Pima County.
" The mine production of lead increased from 21,738,969 pounds in
1915 to a record production of over 26,000,000 pounds in 1916. The
value of this output increased from $1,021,732 to $1,768,000, or 73
per cent. The Copper Queen and Shattuck-Arizona mines, in the
Warren District, and the Tennessee mine, in Mohave County, con-
tinue to contribute the largest part of the lead output.
" The production of zinc from the mines increased from 18,220,863
pounds, valued at $2,259,387, in 1915, to about 20,980,000 pounds,
valued at $2,874,260, in 1916, an increase of nearly 27 per cent in
value. The greater part of the zinc ore and concentrates was shipped
from the Golconda and Tennessee properties, in Mohave County.
There were, however, two new and important shippers of zinc ore
— the Magma Copper Co. in Final County, which opened up zinc ore
and constructed a concentrator late in the year, and the Duquesne
property, in Santa Cruz County. Shipments were also made from
the Kingman Zinc Co., near Kingman, the San Xavier mine, in
Pima County, and in the Gemmill-Randolph tailings at Crown King.
Possibly 28,000 tons of crude zinc ore and concentrates were shipped
from the state during the year.
"Dividends paid to December i amounted to nearly $34,000,000.
The contributors were the Copper Queen, Inspiration, Calumet &
Arizona. United Verde, Ray Consolidated. Miami. Shattuck-Arizona,
United Globe, United Verde Extension, and Grand Gulch.
It can readily be seen that in so brief a chapter as this
it is impossible to do more than merely hint at the mines
The Symphony of the Minerals 211
of Arizona. It is no exaggeration to say that I could
write a dozen volumes on them and then not begin to ex-
haust the subject. When one sees the vast regions, still
unexplored, and realizes the wonderful possibilities of
mines that have been " pecked " into the earth's crust,
while every thousand feet of descent, or of cross-cut,
may reveal treasures undreamed of, he can see that it is
no unreasonable or foolish imagination which dares the
prophecy that fifty years' time from now will see so
great an activity in Arizona mines as to dwarf into utter
insignificance all the work — large though it is — that
is being accomplished to-day.
CHAPTER XVI
STOCK RAISING IN ARIZONA
HORSES, cattle, sheep, and goats were brought into
America by Spaniards. Possibly Stephen the negro,
who went ahead of Fray Marcos de Niza through Ari-
zona, rode a horse or a mule. If so, that was the first
sight of such an animal in Arizona. Coronado and his
men, in 1540, entered the region on horses, and to most
of the people the animals were strange and frightful,
especially when it is recalled that the horsemen carried
their rude guns and fired them now and again at the
natives and near them, to impress them with the magical
prowess of the newcomers.
Until Juan de Ofiate, however, there were no domes-
tic cattle of any kind located or settled in the country.
After his conquest of New Mexico, in 1598, and the
colonists began to come all varieties were introduced.
In due time sheep and goats were given to the Christian-
ized Indians, but there is no specific record as to whether
they ever received horses, mules, or cattle. It is reason-
ably suppositional, however, that the Apaches and Nava-
hos, as soon as they learned the value of horses and
cattle, helped themselves, for they were ever a little
slack in their recognition of the law of meum and tciim.
From the Spanish colonists, therefore, we really date
the introduction of stock into the country, and, by the
very exigencies of the case, stockading, fencing, corral-
ling being impossible, range feeding came into existence.
212
Stock Raising in Arizona 213
Here came the necessity for the evolution of the cow-
boy. Spanish and Mexican first learned how to drive
cattle; how to make la riata, corrupted later by Ameri-
can cowboys to lariat — how to "throw the rope," cut
out the animal needed ; mark, cut or brand the animals so
they could be recognized at a distance.
When, therefore, the United States took possession of
Texas, and later of New Mexico, stock-raising and range-
feeding were well established Mexican industries, and
the life of the cowboy — El Vaquero — was as definitely
understood as that of the sheep-herder, the gardener or
the tailor. By contact with the Mexicans the trade and
all its tricks were learned by many Americans before the
conquest of New Mexico, but from that time on it be-
came a regular business for El Gringoes — los Ameri-
canos — as well as the Mexicans.
It was no gentle, easy, kid-gloved task in those early
days. Apaches were wide awake, alert, hostile and ag-
gressive in the south, and Navahos in the north, with
occasional extra bands of raiding Yutas, Comanches,
Mohaves and others from the north and west. To be a
cowboy meant nerve and craft, ability and skill, courage
and daring. And, indeed, there cannot be said to have
been much of a real cattle industry until after the power
of the Navahos was broken by Kit Carson rounding
them up and " corralling " them at the Bosque Redondo,
in 1862-3, and General Crook crushed the Apaches near
" Hell's Hip Pocket " in a cave a few miles from where
Fish Creek Lunching Station now is on the famous
Apache Trail.
Beginning in the late 'sixties and early 'seventies the
business assumed noticeable proportions; the military
posts needed cattle, the miners demanded beef, and the
demand ever evokes the supply. Then as the country
214 Arizona, the Wonderland
grew in population, and California began to require
cattle in larger herds to supply its markets, the ranges
rilled up, until, when I first came into the country over
thirty-five years ago, most of them were overstocked,
and all of them filled to their utmost capacity.
Those were the days of the cattle barons who made
their fortunes in a few years. The increase was rapid,
the expenses small, the ranges good and extensive, and
prices high. But, occasionally, when a drought came,
firms that seemed as solid as the National Banks went
under. Ruin came sharp and swift. Water pockets and
natural reservoirs were scarce, and while in a few places
snow remained on the high peaks most of the year
and the rivers ran perpetually, the major portion of the
country depended upon a fair rainfall and the relia-
bility of the springs. When these failed the cattle died
by thousands. Hence I came to regard the cattle-
industry as a very uncertain one. It was a gamble. If
fortune smiled for a few years and sent plenty of rain,
the hill-sides, mesas and valleys were covered with the
richest kind of fodder-grasses and everything went well.
One season of drought worked disaster. Wells dried
up, water-courses ceased to run, springs ran dry, and
not only was there no range pasturage, but, as no one
seemed to think it necessary to cut and store hay, there
was no dry feed to be obtained except at exorbitant
prices. Two or three seasons of drought in succession
meant complete ruin to the wealthiest of cattle owners.
The success of the business, therefore, seemed to de-
pend largely upon the rainfall.
To those unfamiliar with Arizona conditions the ques-
tion used to arise : When there is a drought why not drive
the cattle to some other region or else ship in feed and
water? Only those unfamiliar with the then existent
Stock Raising in Arizona 215
conditions could ask such apparently natural questions.
To drive cattle there must be feed and water on the
way. Drought meant drought in Arizona, and there
was neither feed nor water, hence driving was impos-
sible. To gather the cattle from the range during
periods of drought, and ship in feed and water for them
was equally impracticable on account of the expense, and
while to the humanitarian it seems horrible to contemplate
the deliberate abandonment of cattle upon a feedless and
waterless range to certain death, the Arizona stockman
faced the certainty as kings and generals face the awful
losses of their soldiers in war.
Something might have been done, in my opinion, even
in the early days, before irrigation was much practiced,
to provide emergency feed, but Arizona stockmen could
never be brought to see it. There was a kind of fatalism
in their habit of mind, a stolid reliance upon the coming
of the rain, and, if it failed, a stoic resignation akin to
the " kismet " of the Mahometan.
It was noticed by some stockmen, however, that
during periods of drought, cattle would force them-
selves to eat the chollas and prickly pears, that ordinarily
they would not touch. Although they suffered cruelly
from the vicious spines, they still lived, some of them
even thrived. It was also observed that, in regions
where the cactus abounded, more particularly in south-
ern Arizona, the stock was able, somehow, to tide them-
selves over the periods of drought until rains brought an
abundance of fresh forage and water. Investigation
and study soon demonstrated that it was to the cactus
the stock turned for both food and water, and, despite
their evident discomfort, were thus enabled to escape
death from starvation and thirst.
This led some few of the more progressive cattlemen,
216 Arizona, the Wonderland
as well as the scientific botanists and agriculturists of
the Experiment Station to make experiments in the
singeing of the cactus, to promote their growths, and
encourage development along the lines suggested by Bur-
bank's much-heralded achievements. A torch was con-
structed, somewhat after the style of a plumber's torch,
fed with gasoline, and the chollas and prickly pears sub-
jected to the flames. Some stockmen used green mes-
quite or paloverde to which they fastened rags dipped in
kerosene, and produced the same results. Chollas singe
more easily than prickly pears, the inflammable spines
upon them spreading the flames. But when so singed
the cattle browse them so closely that the edible suc-
culent branches are destroyed from which the new
growth comes that bears the fruit. Hence it was found
better for the perpetuation of the plants to cut therefrom
the parts valuable as forage, throw them upon piles of
dry weeds, and then set fire to the pile. This singed the
feed, destroyed injurious range weeds, and yet avoided
the destruction of the plant by too close contact with the
heat. It also saved the young plants growing up around
the parent stem.
On the other hand, the lobes or pads of prickly pears
are so large and the spines comparatively so few that it
is almost impossible to injure the plant by singeing, and
no matter how closely they are grazed the closely eaten
stumps send forth new shoots again as soon as the con-
ditions are favorable.
Of the food value of the cactus much has been writ-
ten that is unreliable. As a desert ration, where water
is scarce, combined with alfalfa, it produces excellent re-
sults, but here I am considering it merely as an emergency
ration. Cattle will eat of the chollas and cactus clean
when little or nothing else can be obtained, but sheep,
CHOLLA.
YUCCA.
PRICKLY PEAR.
Found growing on the Arid Lands of Arizona.
Stock Raising in Arizona 217
even though starving, can scarcely be induced to touch
the prickly pear pads. On the other hand, they will eat
the fruit of the cholla with avidity, and seem to thrive
fairly well upon it.
Hence the scientists and practical farmers have found
that it is a good plan to foster the growth of both chollas
and prickly pear, as emergency rations, on the range, to
help tide over periods of drought.
Another fodder plant also has been introduced into
Arizona which helps out in a solution of the problem.
This is the well-known alfilaria (Erodium cicutarium},
commonly called filaree, of California. While we desig-
nate it as of California there is no doubt but that it was
introduced into the Golden State, Mexico and South
America by the Spaniards, and from these points has
spread, mainly by the distribution of sheep, and the
carrying of hay on the lines of freighting travel. It
thrives only where the winters are comparatively mild
and where there are fair fall and winter rains. One has
but to know the history of freighting between Arizona
and California in the early days, i86o's, to know where
alfilaria most abounds in Arizona. The frontier mining
camps, ranches and forts were all supplied from Cali-
fornia. Food, machinery, mill and mining supplies, and
live stock were brought in, and mineral products hauled
out. One of the most noted of the freight and stage
roads extended from Los Angeles, through the San
Gabriel Valley, over the San Gorgonio Pass and the
Colorado Desert to Dos Palmas, largely following the
line now traveled by the Southern Pacific Company's
Sunset Route. Here the stage-road swung east and
north to Ehrenberg, then a freight and steamboat station
of considerable importance, crossed the Colorado River
and proceeded by way of Tyson's and Cullin's wells, and
218 Arizona, the Wonderland
Harrisburg to Wickenburg, from where roads led di-
rectly or indirectly to Date Creek, Congress, Prescott,
Phoenix, Florence, Tucson and other territorial centers,
in addition to numerous military posts.
To those who have seen freighters stop for feeding,
either at relay stations or where night overtook them,
the spread of alfilaria seeds needs no explanation. Hay
is either carried on the wagons, or is sent ahead and cov-
ered with canvas, ready for the purpose. At best the
conveniences are limited and litter strews the ground.
From this the spread of the seeds takes place.
Then, too, in 1870 and 71, a disastrous drought pre-
vailed in southern California, which led to the driving
into Arizona of thousands of head of sheep and cattle.
The virgin mesas were a godsend to the sheep-herders
and cattlemen, and this led also to the greater develop-
ment of these industries in Arizona.
There are several varieties of the alfilaria, the best for
forage purposes, however, being the red-stemmed, or
Cicutarium, already mentioned. It grows best at alti-
tudes from one thousand five hundred to four thou-
sand five hundred feet. Below a thousand feet, in dry
countries, it seldom thrives, and the cold of the higher
levels prevents its growth until spring and summer. The
warm winter rains of the moderate altitudes foster its
growth, and thus the spring forage supply is materially
increased by its presence, while in no way interfering
with the later growth of forage grasses. The only
care it needs is to watch that it is not grazed too
closely.
Now and again an Arizona stockman can be found
who cuts alfilaria for hay. It makes good hay, and
cattle as well as sheep eat it readily and thrive upon it.
But it grows in large enough quantities for hay only on
Stock Raising in Arizona 219
the richer soil of the swales and valleys, hence its cultiva-
tion for this purpose is limited.
There are those who are under the impression that
there are no more stock ranges in Arizona. This is a
grave error. There have been great changes and limita-
tions in the ranges, but there are still hundreds of thou-
sands of acres of open land over which cattle and sheep
are allowed to graze. In the early days, when popula-
tion was limited, there were practically no limitations or
restrictions upon the running loose of stock. Might was
the law. The cattle owner ran things his own way.
Any and all unfenced land, whether owned privately or
still belonging to Uncle Sam, was " range." One re-
sult, however, of the increase of population was the
breaking up of the ranges. The past indifference of the
Government as to who used unclaimed public lands, and,
to put it plainly, by sheer physical force controlled the
major portion of the grazing, gave place to homestead-
ing, legal apportionment of land and water, and official
leasing and supervision of public land under the Forestry
Service. This change spelled the end of the old methods.
Hence new methods must be found to meet the demand
for increased numbers of sheep and cattle, for, it is evi-
dent, as population increased, there was corresponding
call for more animals to supply the meat market.
The growing of alfalfa in large quantities, under irri-
gation, has seemed to meet the new needs admirably. In
the Salt River Valley, around Tucson, on the Colorado
River, and in a score of places where irrigation is
feasible, alfalfa has been planted. It thrives abundantly,
and thousands of tons are put up every year, the yield
of the Salt River Valley alone being many thousands
of tons. Any one who has driven out from Phoenix,
throughout the valley, to Mesa, Tempe, Chandler,
220 Arizona, the Wonderland
Glendale and Ingleside has dwelt with delight upon the
rich green alfalfa fields that now cover thousands
of acres of the once barren and generally inhospitable
land.
The Tucson Farms Company, in the Santa Cruz
Valley, also has produced remarkable crops, and all over
the State, north as well as south, alfalfa is relied upon
to give the range animals winter feed. Hence the
sheep and cattle industry of Arizona is now upon a
steady, firm, and secure basis. The gambling element
is eliminated. Given a range in ordinary seasons, the
sheep and cattle men make money rapidly ; when drought
comes they have alfalfa to fall back upon, and while the
feeding of hay is more expensive, naturally, than range
feeding, it is reasonably profitable — and certain.
While upon this subject it might be appropriate to
make brief reference to the well-known conflicts between
the cattle and sheep men on the one hand, and between
the two and the " nester " or " homesteader " on the
other. These latter conflicts were the natural outcome
of the periods of change. The cattle and sheep owners
who, for ten, twenty, and thirty years, had been habitu-
ated to seeing their animals graze over the unoccupied
public lands, and who, perhaps, had paid dearly in money,
fighting, and blood, for the possession of the springs and
water-holes, could scarcely be expected to look with calm-
ness and equanimity upon the incoming of those whose
presence meant the curtailing of their former freedom,
the fencing, or at least the exclusion of range stock from
the finest portions of the range, and the utilization of the
springs, etc., for domestic purposes. Where this resent-
ment took acute form conflicts arose, and thus gave rise
to the flood of stories of elemental human passions in
fierce, and, sometimes, deadly struggles.
Stock Raising in Arizona 221
The same elemental passions were aroused, when, dur-
ing seasons of drought, the interests of cattle and sheep
men clashed. John Muir, one of the most lovable and
gentle of men, hated sheep. He called them " the lo-
custs " of the mountains, foothills and plains. And he
knew them thoroughly. In his first days in the Sierras
he was a sheep-herder and learned how the sheep ate
down the forage on the range, and trampled to death
what was left, so that cattle could not pasture on any area,
for several years, over which sheep had been closely
grazed.
But those days of conflict practically are over. The
public domain grows smaller with startling rapidity.
The setting apart of large areas as National Parks and
National Forests, both of which are under the careful
supervision of rangers, the systematic leasing and grazing
rights, the limiting of sheep and stock to certain areas,
and also as to numbers, speedily checked lawlessness and
conflict, so that to-day the cowboy is not the wild, woolly,
picturesque, reckless dare-devil of the movies, or of the
sensational story writers, and the cattle and sheep indus-
tries have settled down, in the main, to staid, sober, and
unexciting occupations, in wrhich, however, even as in the
old days, men of energy, capacity, and foresight can make
large returns.
In this laudable endeavor the State University is giv-
ing material help. By bulletins, lectures, summer schools
and the like, it is seeking to educate the stockman in
those scientific methods which will improve the value of
his range stock. The slogan has gone forth, " Fewer
cattle and better." All inferior and unproductive cows
are to be eliminated from the range as quickly as possi-
ble, for an unfertile cow eats quite as much as one that
will each year produce a calf. Then, too, the wild ani-
222 Arizona, the Wonderland
mals that have a tendency to make the herd restless, and
move to and fro unnecessarily — these are best gotten
rid of. But more important than all is the introduction
of high-class, registered bulls. During the past twenty
years Arizona has thoroughly tested this matter. There
has been a marked improvement in the size, weight and
quality of the range cattle. This has meant a large in-
crease in revenue, and it is mainly attributable to the
introduction of better sires on the range. The Hereford
strains have proven themselves admirably adapted to the
Arizona ranges, where they must climb mountains, en-
dure great changes in temperature, sometimes travel long
distances to water, and know how to " rustle " for feed
when it is scarce. The value of good parentage is now
thoroughly understood, and wise and farsighted cattle-
men seek to obtain it in the pure bred bulls that they are
constantly introducing upon their ranges. The same
ideas also apply to the cows — the mothers. A cow to
be profitable must be a regular breeder, and produce
strong, vigorous calves, such as are strong enough to fol-
low their mothers and secure a portion of their own
livelihood as they travel. The mothers, too, should not
neglect their calves, and should be reasonably gentle and
docile. The intelligent owner now seeks to " cut out "
from his herds as speedily as can be every animal that
fails to come up to these requirements, and thus Arizona
cattle are rapidly " grading up " to a far higher standard
than is common elsewhere.
Another branch of this subject should not be over-
looked, and that is the development of the dairy indus-
try. The importance of healthy stock for dairies and the
sanitary management of these establishments cannot be
over-estimated. In this respect Arizona is not one whit
behind the most advanced State in the Union. It has
Stock Raising in Arizona 223
its model dairy farms and dairies in Tucson, Phoenix,
Prescott, Flagstaff, Bisbee, and all the large population
centers.
CHAPTER XVII
THE STATE UNIVERSITY
THE founding of the State University of Arizona
reads like a romance, and is a wonderful illustration of
the remarkable way in which notoriously evil men do
good things, and how politics were handled in the early
days of western civilization. The following facts were
gained from several of the active participants, and while
some small details may be found to be not perfectly accu-
rate, the story can be relied upon, absolutely, as a whole.
It was in 1885, while Arizona was still a Territory,
that the University was empowered. In those days the
Legislative Assembly consisted of two houses, as now,
but the upper house was known as the Council. The
Council had twelve members, the House twenty- four.
There were but ten counties in the Territory, and the
northern and southern districts each elected a member,
thus making the twelve.
The legislature of 1885 is still referred to as " the
Bloody Thirteenth," or the "Thieving Thirteenth," it
being the Thirteenth Session, and many and various
have been the charges of graft and extravagance brought
against it. Tucson elected its members of the Council,
and the southern district also elected a resident of Tucson
as its representative. It was entitled to five members in
the House, and of these four of the elected were Repub-
lican and one Democratic.
Before the representatives left Tucson for Prescott,
which was the capital, though utterly isolated as far as
224
A Portion of the Campus, University of Arizona,
Tucson.
The State University 225
railways were concerned, a quiet meeting with them and
some of the leading citizens was held. It was then de-
cided that no effort was to be made to bring back the
capital to Tucson. It was too expensive a luxury to keep
it fixed anywhere in the then unsettled conditions of poli-
tics. What, then, did they want ? Not the penitentiary.
That was already at Yuma. Insane asylum ? No ! Bet-
ter try for a University.
No sooner were the legislators assembled at Prescott
than it became known that a caucus had been held and an
agreement made whereby a majority of the Council would
stand together on all legislation. It was an agreement
for protection of the respective interests of the various
counties. Mohave came in on the strength of anti-
Mormon legislation. Yuma, no removal of the peniten-
tiary; Yavapai, no removal of the capital; Cochise, no
division of that county; and one other county for a cause
not now remembered. The representative of the north-
ern district came in on Yavapai County's claim — no re-
moval of the capital — and the southern district on no
anti-railway legislation. Here then were seven men
agreed — a majority — to allow no legislation that would
interfere with their respective interests. In the House
the balance was far more uncertain.
It happened that after the legislature had been in ses-
sion for some time the majority of the people of Tucson
decided that they wanted the capital back again. A fund
of $5,000 was raised and a well-known citizen placed in
charge of it, and sent to Prescott to lobby for this end.
He was soon informed of the unchangeable agreement of
the Council's majority, but he decided that for appear-
ance's sake he must get a bill passed through the House.
This was done, but, as every one knew it would be, when
brought before the Council it was defeated.
226 Arizona, the Wonderland
As the session continued bills were passed giving
Tempe a normal school; Phcenix, an insane asylum; lib-
eral appropriations for the Yuma penitentiary; Final
County, a bridge ; Yavapai County, bonds for a railway ;
but Pima County, as yet, had secured nothing. The Dem-
ocratic representative from Pima County, Selim M.
Franklin, of Tucson, felt it was time to bestir himself.
Recently from the California State University at Berke-
ley, he had made himself unpopular in the House by fight-
ing against all the grafts and steals that made this ses-
sion so notorious. Still, he felt called upon to draft a
bill for a University. Taking it to the representative in
the Council from the Southern District he asked that it
be presented to the Council. Stevens, the Councilman,
was a member of the majority, and, desirous of squaring
himself before the people of Tucson for his adverse vote
on the removal of the capital from Prescott back to his
home city, not only introduced it but did it in such a way
that it was passed immediately. This was essential, as
there was but about a week in which to get it through
the House. Coming from the Council, Mr. Franklin
called it up for immediate consideration, under the sus-
pension of the rules. But evidently he or his friends
had learned the usefulness of the proper stage-setting of
surrounding ourselves with the right influences. All the
teachers, educators, and others interested in such a bill
were induced to fill up the lobbies, and the word was
passed around that the presiding officer would allow
applause.
Several times I have had that speech quoted to me
as the most powerful, convincing and disinterested of
that whole legislature. Mr. Franklin was then but about
twenty-five years of age, naturally anxious to make a
name for himself in his first legislative venture. And be-
The State University 227
ing recently from his own " commencement exercises " at
Berkeley, among other things he gave a graphic descrip-
tion of a future commencement in Arizona. The young
men in their best suits, the girls in their white dresses,
the anxious, proud and happy parents, the adoring and
hopeful friends, the applauding crowd, etc., were all
vividly pictured. " And," said the wise and diplomatic
speaker, " the thirteenth legislature will go down in his-
tory as the one that made this possible. We have been
called the ' bloody thirteenth,' the * thieving thirteenth/
and, gentlemen, more or less we deserve these opprobrious
titles, but in a few short years all these things will be
forgotten and our names will be heralded as the ones who
established the institution that gave to the young people
of Arizona the great opportunity for their education."
It was a great speech, and the best evidence of that fact
is found in the vote. Out of twenty-three representatives
present, twenty-two voted for it, and the one who voted
against it came and explained that he was heartily in
favor of the University but a political pledge had pre-
vented his voting as he desired.
The bill as passed was immediately signed by Gov-
ernor F. A. Tritle. It required, however, that within
two years the people of Tucson should deed to the regents
forty acres of suitable land for a campus, and that the
bonds for $25,000 to build should not be available until
that was done. Before the time expired Charles M.
Strauss got the leading gamblers of Tucson, who owned
the acres of land where the University now is, to donate
the required forty. When more respectable men held
back and failed to respond to this great need, which
meant so much to the future of the youth of the State,
these men generously came forward and made possible
the development of an institution which they were well
228 Arizona, the Wonderland
aware would be foremost, later on, in driving their mode
of living out of the State.
When this was done the bonds were sold and the first
building erected. This is the quaint " basement and one
story " structure to the left of the present fine agriculture
building. It came to be built in this way : Dr. Handy,
who was afterwards shot and killed by F. J. Heney,
the famous prosecutor of the San Francisco grafters, was
an influential member of the board. He had just been
to Stanford University where one-story buildings only
were erected, and being a self-willed and strongly opin-
ionated man, insisted that the Arizona building be of
one story, as that was the last word in university build-
ing. The basement and one story was the effect of a
compromise.
Another interesting and rather comical bit of history
must here be recorded. Just as the building was about
to be completed the Federal Act was passed providing
for the appropriation of $15,000 a year towards Agri-
cultural Experiment Stations, connected with State or
Territorial Universities. Naturally, the regents desired
to avail themselves of this appropriation, yet they had
neither station, professor of agriculture, nor director.
At this time Mr. Franklin, who made the speech that
secured the passage of the bill in the House, had been
appointed to the Board of Regents. No other man on
the board was known to have a college degree. He, how-
ever, though a lawyer, had received the degree of
Bachelor of Science, so that the board duly elected him
Professor of Agriculture and Director of the Experiment
Station (yet to be organized), without salary. This met
the needs of the Federal Government, the appropriation
was secured, and thus the regents were able to secure
and appoint a competent man who was duly elected Pro-
The State University 229
fessor of Agriculture and also President of the Uni-
versity.
Now a new difficulty arose, though, of course, it had
been foreseen. Here was a duly authorized university,
but no students. There was not a student eligible for
university work. There was not a High School in the
whole Territory. Hence a preparatory school was or-
ganized, which, for many years served as a territorial
high school. Then, to secure pupils, as there was no
dormitory, the students were allowed to sleep in the main
building. They were all youths, stalwart, strong, rough
and ready — " wild colts from the ranges," and cots
were placed for them everywhere, and it was a current
saying, prior to the building of the first dormitory, that
no boy was ever guilty of using either sheet or pillow-
case. After that West Point rules for the care of rooms,
slightly modified, were adopted, and have been in use ever
since.
Such was the State University in its beginnings. Per-
fectly suited to those early day conditions, it has evolved
as the State has evolved. The past years have seen
marvelous changes and wonderful progress. When the
present president was installed, official representatives
were present from every great educational institution in
the United States, and there was a dignity in the pro-
ceedings that would have been an eye-opener to any old-
timer who had shared in the rude functions of the early
days.
The University is now liberally treated by the legisla-
ture, and without the doing of politics. The result is
that new buildings are going up, and the campus has a
really university appearance. A uniform system of ar-
chitecture, plain, simple, dignified and attractive, has
been adopted, and as additional buildings are required
230 Arizona, the Wonderland
they will be placed so as to add to the effectiveness of
the whole.
From the very beginning it has been an institution
that has kept close to the needs of the people of Arizona.
It did not call for students all over the country, but, pri-
marily, planned for Arizonans. As already shown, it
prepared itself for agricultural work while it was yet
in its infancy, thus symbolizing the new Arizona that is
sure to be. But almost as speedily it organized its School
of Mines, for mining is one of the chief industries not
only of the State, but of the Great West to which it be-
longs. Men like Professor Blake — a man of interna-
tional reputation, who had won his laurels as geologist
of the transcontinental surveys in ante-Civil-War times
— were placed in charge of the various departments
and attracted students not only by the power of their
names, but by their genius and ability, and to-day Ari-
zona offers a course in practical mining that can scarce
be surpassed in the world. In the heart of a great and
active mining region, with ready access to world-famous
mines, smelters, and other reduction plants, guided by
a dean, Dr. G. M. Butler, whose text-books are such for-
cible presentations of mining principles that they are
used in several of the greatest university mining schools
of the world, the Arizona School of Mines possesses
opportunities against which there is none that can com-
pete.
The same may be said of its Agricultural department.
In the study of the many and varied problems that beset
the farmer, gardener, stock-raiser, dairyman, etc., in
the semi-arid Southwest, no other school is so well
equipped. Its dean, Robert H. Forbes, is the honored
and recognized authority upon all the problems that come
within the scope of his investigations, and his associates
The State University 231
have been chosen because of their peculiar abilities and
powers in their respective lines. Their bulletins are
eagerly looked for, conscientiously studied, and profitably
followed not only in Arizona but elsewhere where similar
conditions of climate, rainfall, etc., seem to exist.
In these two particulars the University of Arizona is
preeminent. It meets the peculiar needs of its people in
the most thorough, competent and satisfactory manner,
while at the same time it gives thorough and abundant
attention to the cultivation of the liberal arts and sci-
ences. It would be absurd for Arizona to pretend to
compete in these general branches with the great Eastern
or Western universities, and it makes no such pretense.
But in its own fields it will ere long be a teacher of teach-
ers, a leader among leaders, and in satisfying the spe-
cific needs of its own citizens it is building up a strong,
powerful, democratic institution that is mightily influ-
encing the future progress of the State.
Within the last few years there has been a growing
demand for a department of law. Arizona's peculiar
climatic and other conditions have required special legis-
lation to meet its needs. The bench and bar alike have
seen that it would be wise to train its future judges and
lawyers to a full comprehension of its own peculiar laws
and the needs for them. Hence the existence of the new
Law department where the popular needs will be fully
met.
One of its professors, Byron Cummings, who had been
dean of the College of Liberal Arts in the Utah Uni-
versity, but who had felt the urge to explore the Cliff
and Cave dwellings of Utah and Arizona, and who had
made important discoveries on the San Juan River, and at
the great Cliff-dwellings of Betatakin and Kitsiel, was
called to Arizona to take the chair of ethnology and
232 Arizona, the Wonderland
archaeology, and direct the work of a Museum, which
Arizona feels she is entitled to, instead of allowing so
many other museums to be made rich by the carrying
away of important objects of antiquity which should be
retained at home.
The University also is fortunate in having as the dean
of its College of Letters, Arts, and Sciences, and pro-
fessor of Physics and Astronomy, Dr. A. E. Douglass,
for several years astronomer of the Percival Lowell Ob-
servatory at Flagstaff. There he became thoroughly
familiar with the wonderfully advantageous conditions
of Arizona atmosphere for astronomical work, and now
that an unknown donor has placed a sufficient sum at the
disposal of the authorities, a great thirty-six-inch reflect-
ing telescope is being made by Brashear of Pittsburg,
Pa., to be mounted by Warner and Swasey, of Cleve-
land, Ohio, which will soon occupy its own especially-
built and equipped building on the north of the campus.
Thus might I go through the whole list of the pro-
fessors and their associates showing their eminent quali-
fications and fitness for their work, and this, not in a
perfunctory way, but as the sincere expression of my
deepest conviction. Just one more example to illustrate.
For over thirty years I have been a close student of the
peculiar botany of the West, and especially of the arid
Southwest, together with the arboreal and floral life of
the high mountains and deep canyons of Arizona. Here
are individualistic conditions found nowhere else in the
United States, and just as Professor W. L. Jepson has
gained international fame for the thorough, conscientious
and colossal work he has accomplished in this field in
California, so has Professor J. J. Thornber placed his
name with equal eminence, for the work he has achieved
in Arizona.
The State University 233
These things I say as the result of personal contact
with the men. I know them and their work, both of the
laboratory and in the field. And where you see men
climbing snowclad mountains, traveling over waterless
deserts, climbing over, around, under, and about rocks
in the canyon depths of Arizona, refusing to recognize
dangers, hardships, privations and positive sufferings in
their zeal for knowledge, I know the influence the lives
and teachings of such men must have upon the young
people who pass under their instruction. It is a privilege
and blessing to be coveted and highly prized.
In its president, Rufus Bernhard Von KleinSmid,
not only the University but all of Arizona feels a per-
sonal pride. Still young, he has gained high honors, and
came at the urgent request of the people to aid them in
building up their growing institution. In rare combina-
tion he possesses high scientific and literary knowledge, is
a practical man of affairs and the world, able to mingle,
with dignity and affability, with all classes, is a con-
tinuous student and accomplished orator, and an ac-
knowledged leader. As one of the foremost men of the
State recently said to me, " He is the living embodiment
of a refined, cultured, manly man. His very walk is a
lesson to the students in what every gentleman should
radiate of energy, refinement and culture."
In its location the University is ideal. Near enough
to Tucson to feel in perfect touch and sympathy with
all its civic life and ideals, it is yet " in the country."
An electric street car and the inevitable jitney automo-
bile readily connect them. Though there may have been
some thought of placing the University " out of the
crush " for the men who schemed for something else
and got what they hadn't asked for, it has worked out
for the highest good of all concerned. Upon elevated
234 Arizona, the Wonderland
ground, overlooking the valley of the Santa Cruz, in
every direction surrounded with heaven-aspiring and
gloriously-beautiful mountains, it is a place of pure air,
abundant sunshine, wonderful outlook, perfect healthful-
ness, and inspiration to body, mind and soul. It was
in landscapes such as are afforded here that Greece
cradled her sculptors, architects, statesmen, orators, sol-
diers and philosophers. Like environments produce like
results, and with the mental and spiritual influences
thrown around the embryo citizens (of both sexes, for
it must not be overlooked that Arizona has woman's suf-
frage), there is nothing to hinder — nay, everything to
bring them out — superior results to those attained in
Greece in its golden era.
Then, too, as I have practically shown, every man of
the faculty is an out-of-doors man, personally interested
in the country, and where their own work suggests it,
going out personally, and with the students, to study, in
the field, in preference to books. There are no words
in the language that can too strongly emphasize the su-
periority of this course of procedure over the book
method. An interest is awakened in the things them-
selves, rather than in words about them. The science of
the schools too often is merely the science — knowledge
— of words about things, instead of what it should be,
viz., the knowledge of the things themselves. I have been
taken to task, often, for affirming what was perfectly
true, namely, that many Indians that I know have a
far truer science in some things than the professors of
our schools and colleges. Here the students are taught
to know the things themselves and gather their knowl-
edge from an actual study of them in the field.
Then, too, many of the professors are original ex-
plorers and investigators on their own subjects. I could
The State University 235
mention half a dozen who have traveled all over the
State, into most dangerous and inaccessible places, some-
times with classes, sometimes without, for the purpose
of solving certain problems that have arisen. And Ari-
zona is rich in the opportunities for this kind of work,
and it is a glorious and satisfying fact that its leaders
of thought among the young men and women of the
State are eager to go out to grapple with, and solve
them.
There is an air about the buildings, campus, lecture
rooms and mess hall of the University of Arizona that
clearly and positively demonstrates its spirit. It as
clearly says as if the words were singing out from a
megaphone : " We are the training school of Arizona's
future. We are shaping the destinies of the Ages. The
young men and women who come here are receiving not
only book-learning, but an induction into the spirit of
living. We realize the high responsibilities that are al-
ready devolving upon the West. These Citizens of the
Future are being made aware of these responsibilities and
at the same time educated to meet and discharge them."
Here is no playground, no pastime spot for the lazy,
the rich, the idle, no nursery for the vices of rich men's
sons and daughters. All are at work, intensely, strongly,
vigorously, determinately at work. The very air of the
mountain, desert and canyon seems to quicken the step
of everybody from president to last freshman. There is
no man on the campus that walks with the " languid air
of quality," and if ever the spirit of manana possessed
the Spaniards and Mexicans of Tucson, the University
certainly has sprung to the very opposite extreme.
Here as I write, on the campus, my window looks out
where four times a day, one of the professors passes to
and fro. Though no longer a young man in the ordinary
236 Arizona, the Wonderland
parlance, he walks with the agile, springy, vigorous step
of the man who enjoys life, has work to do, and glories
in his capacity to do it. He typifies, to me, the great
and growing University, little known though it is to the
East, of which he is so important a part.
Is it to be wondered at, then, that I find in the students
a frank eagerness for education, an earnest seriousness
of purpose, in both young men and women, that makes
it a joy to watch them ? In such a spirit the foundations
of great empires are laid, and thus, in vision, do I see
Arizona arise to become, for out of great tribulation,
fierce warfare, unparalleled hardships, it is meet that she
should rise to leadership, power, and prosperity.
Arizona has two state or public Normal Schools, one at
Tempe, in the south, the other at Flagstaff, in the north.
The one at Tempe was authorized by the legislature in
1885. It is located in the heart of a thriving city of
about two thousand inhabitants, surrounded by the fer-
tile ranches, orchards, and industries of the Salt River
Valley, easily reached by both Santa Fe and Southern
Pacific railways, as it is but twenty-minutes' ride from
Phcenix. There are now ten buildings on the campus,
which is a beautiful tract, thirty acres in extent,
planted out to trees, shrubs, plants and flowers, which
make of it a perfect bower of joyous beauty. Certainly
if delightful environment is of any aid to mental devel-
opment the students here are especially favored. An ad-
ditional and adjoining thirty-acres has been leased by
the State for a term of years which affords working
ground for experiments in all lines of agriculture, stock-
breeding, etc. The buildings are modern and well
equipped, the dormitories, also — although an additional
group-dormitory for the young women, in five groups
around a patio, each group to accommodate thirty-fiv«
The State University 237
students, is now being built. The principal of the school
from its inception to the present time is Dr. A. J.
Matthews.
The Normal School at Flagstaff was authorized by the
legislature of 1899. It is located in one of the most
beautiful mountain cities of Arizona where the sum-
mer heat is tempered with the snows on the summit of
the San Francisco Mountain, and upon the slopes of
which the city is built. Flagstaff is on the main line
of the Santa Fe Railway, and the purity of its atmos-
phere can be understood when it is recalled that Percival
Lowell, choosing a place for the location of his astro-
nomical observatory for the" study of the planet Mars,
decided upon this as the best place in the United States.
As needed by the growing requirements of the school,
buildings have been provided, until now over two hun-
dred students are regularly enrolled and adequately pro-
vided for. The principal from the beginning of the
school to the present time is Dr. Rudolph H. Blome.
CHAPTER XVIII
THE WOMEN'S CLUBS OF ARIZONA
FEW States in the American Union owe more to women
than does Arizona. It has been impossible in these pages
to do full justice either to pioneer men or pioneer women.
It was hard enough for men of vigor, strength, and power
to resist the hardships and endure the long rides over the
trails or in the stages prior to the days of railroads. Lux-
uries were unknown; comforts were rare; the journey
was one of bare, bald endurance, without relief or respite,
except to those whose souls and bodies responded to the
glory of the great new, virgin, wonderful, marvelous,
strange, bizarre country through which they were passing.
But when to the fatigues of the unrelieved journey we
consider there were added the horrors of attacks by the
most ferocious, relentless, vindictive, and barbarous tribe
of Indians known on the American Continent to whose
tender mercies death itself was a joy, we can see that
bravery, courage and loyalty to their menkind were essen-
tial on the part of all women who accompanied their hus-
bands, brothers, fathers or sons into Arizona.
Once established in communities, however small, their
lot was decidedly improved, yet there was still much to
be desired. The refinements, comforts and luxuries of
civilized life were accumulated slowly, and men and wo-
men alike sought for diversion in the most primitive and
simple fashion. But in the hearts of the few longings
for the higher culture were seething and in due time these
238
The Women's Clubs of Arizona 239
asserted themselves outwardly. Individuals read and
studied; then Chautauqua circles were formed and some
slight endeavor made toward concerted action for intel-
lectual improvement. It was in the early 'eighties that
F. A. Tritle came to southern Arizona as a mining man.
He was accompanied by his wife, a refined woman of
dainty physique, whose mind was set upon more than the
things of the body. On the 8th day of March, 1881, Mr.
Tritle was appointed governor of the Territory, to suc-
ceed Fremont, and at once the family removed to Pres-
cott, then the territorial capital. Mrs. Tritle's home soon
became the center of social and intellectual life, and it
was there a small history-study class was organized and
successfully conducted for some years. Then a Chau-
tauqua circle was organized, with Mrs. Tritle as presi-
dent, and from this was drawn the nucleus that ultimately
formed the first woman's club.
During the summer of 1895, the coming to Prescott
of Mrs. May Wright Sewall, with her invalid husband,
renewed the agitation for the formation of a club, and
several ladies called upon Mrs. Sewall, urging her to ad-
dress a meeting for this purpose. The meeting was held,
and Mrs. Sewall spoke on " Women's Clubs of the
World." A little sensitive as to their ignorance of the
Women's Club Movement, some of those present rather
resented Mrs. Sewall's address, but the desire for the
speedy formation of a club was engendered, and at a sec-
ond lecture by Mrs. Sewall, this time on Margaret Fuller,
delivered in the K. P. hall on Tuesday, August 13, 1895,
the club was organized. It was first called the Women's
Club of Prescott, but a year or so later the name was
changed to the Monday Club. On August 19 and 20, at
the residence of Mrs. Gould, a constitution and by-laws
were adopted and the following officers were elected:
240 Arizona, the Wonderland
President, Mrs. F. A. Tritle; Vice President, Mrs. May
B. Gurovits ; Secretary, Miss Florence Gould ; Treasurer,
Miss Blandy.
In looking over the work done by the Club in its first
year one is amused at the wide ambition of the workers.
There was the usual scraping up of material from ency-
clopedias upon subjects far remote from the interests of
most of the women concerned. One member laughingly
tells that she was compelled — for no refusals of work
assigned were accepted — at a time when she was about
to become a mother, to review the somber-hued and com-
prehensive subject, " The Funerals, Cemeteries, Cata-
combs, Monuments and noted Prisons of Paris " ! It
was a pity the assigning committee did not also add the
Lunatic Asylums !
In due time, however, the women abandoned their high-
flying mental aeronautics, came down to earth and prac-
tical affairs, organized a library association, and soon
rejoiced in the possession of a Carnegie Library. Until
the city took it over the women raised a monthly sum
for its support.
Then they undertook to decorate the walls of the school
rooms with works of art, and plant trees in the school
yards. This latter activity was soon expanded to take in
the streets. Then they introduced in 1904-5 Manual
Training into the public schools, and for the first year
bore all the expense, buying lathes, benches, tools and all
necessary equipment. To-day, as the result of those ef-
forts, a well-supplied building, laid out on stately and ar-
tistic lines, stands on the Washington School grounds,
and is devoted entirely to this work.
The city plaza has been beautified, and civic betterment
work in all its phases engaged in, and it now has active
departments in art, literature, and music.
The Women's Clubs of Arizona 241
In the meantime other clubs were organized in various
cities and towns of the Territory, principally at Bisbee,
Phoenix and Tucson. The movement in the latter city
began quite early, but it was not until the year 1900 that
the organization was perfected and the club federated.
Since then it has had marked influence for good in the
community, though in its earlier days its aim was more to
compensate the women of the city who had come from
all parts of the United States, breaking all old cultural
and social ties, by giving them the opportunity of mu-
tual helpfulness.
Then it began to branch out into a broader scope of
usefulness and a higher standard of efficiency. Study
sections in Art, Drama, History, and Current Topics
were organized, and this led to the gathering of a fine
collection of standard works in the Carnegie Library of
the city, where they have been of considerable service
to the citizens generally as well as to the club mem-
bers.
A study of the schools of painting of all nations,
with the help of good reproductions, ministered to the
love of the beautiful, and inaugurated a movement
throughout the State in the interest of art and an ap-
preciation of fine paintings. A travelling collection of
good reproductions was the result of the Club's initia-
tion.
An exhibition of paintings by American artists of na-
tional reputation, valued at twenty-two thousand dollars,
is another of the Club's recent activities, and every scholar
of the public schools was given an opportunity to see and
study these excellent canvases, without cost, and under
competent guidance.
From the beginning the Club has provided first-class
lecturers upon educational, art, social, and generally help-
242 Arizona, the Wonderland
ful topics, and the public has been admitted free, as a
rule. In this work the faculty of the State University
has cooperated very generously.
The Philanthropy Committee has undertaken the
equipment of the children's playground provided by the
city, and it is working steadily to provide better moving
pictures in the theatres for the children.
Until three years ago, the organization met wherever
adequate quarters could be secured but the growing mem-
bership made a permanent club-house imperative. A lot
was presented to the Club and the first steps were taken.
In one year a fifteen-thousand dollar club-house was com-
pleted and more than half paid for, most of the money
having been raised by subscription. This building is the
club-women's contribution to the civic beauty of the city.
It is artistic within and without and is equipped with alt
the modern conveniences. The auditorium seats five
hundred people and the stage and dressing-rooms are ade-
quate for the production of ordinary theatricals. The
members of the Drama Section annually give several
well-selected plays in connection with their study of the
drama. Indeed, this club-house may well be called " the
Little Theatre of the Southwest."
The Tucson Woman's Club believes that anything that
broadens the horizon and sweetens the moment is worth
while and desires the club-house to be a center for every-
thing that contributes to the good of the community.
The Club has had twelve representative women as its
presidents, the present officer being Mrs. Byron Cum-
mings, wife of the distinguished professor of archaeology
at the State University.
I have thus given a brief outline of the work of two
of the earlier clubs. Many others might be.offered show-
ing the varied and individualistic work of these pioneer
The Women's Clubs of Arizona 243
women in laying secure and solid foundations for the
intellectual edifices of the future.
Early in the history of the Club Movement in Arizona,
Mrs. A. J. McClatchie, the organizer of the Phoenix Club,
seeing the advantage of federation, invited all the clubs
to send delegates to a meeting for a full discussion of
the question. Mrs. McClatchie was the wife of Profes-
sor A. J. McClatchie, formerly of Pasadena, California,
and a woman of high ideals and noble purposes. In a
recent letter to one of the prominent club women of the
State she thus refers to the birth of the federation:
" I had, from the beginning of my knowledge of federation work,
been deeply impressed with its great potentialities — both direct and
indirect. The indirect being to me, the more significant ; for while
promotion of civic, social and educational interests is, in general, the
chief aim of club and federation work, the most far-reaching benefits
accruing from it all, I believe to be the larger development of woman
herself. So, quite naturally, after organizing the Woman's Club of
Phoenix, my thoughts turned to uniting our work with the club
forces of the territory, that we might be in a position to meet the
urgent culture demands of our fast growing region and through this
work attain to larger life for ourselves.
"Then came the decision of the General Federation that the club
interests of the west merited the distinction, and the inspiration of
the 1902 biennial meeting which, it was decided, should be held in Los
Angeles. So near to us ! I felt that we simply must take immediate
and decisive action ; for surely the women of Arizona had a distinct
duty in welcoming the great opportunity which was coming to their
very door, and just as surely we needed the inspiration and broaden-
ing influences which representation at the biennial meeting would
bring.
" Strongly and urgently as I could, I laid the matter before our
Woman's Qub, where at many meetings it was discussed at length,
with final decision that upon the opening of the fall work, in 1901,
invitation should be sent to all the clubs of the territory to join us
in a meeting for the purpose of considering federation. This was
done and all responded cordially. Most of the clubs promised to
send delegates, and some who could not send representatives asked
to be included in case of organization.
"The meeting was called for November 18 and 19, and Mother
244 Arizona, the Wonderland
Nature kindly contributed two of Arizona's most benign fall days
which seemed to cast their happy spell upon the meeting, for while
there was some questioning as to whether our meeting would be a
success the list of clubs that responded to this call comprised
the Woman's Clubs of Phoenix, Tucson and Bisbee, Monday Club
of Prescott, the Maricopa Chapter D. A. R., the Friday Club of
Phoenix, Village Improvement Club, Florence, and the Sahuara
Club of Safford — the latter by letter only. The original clubs,
with the exception of the Safford club, are yet in existence, all
greatly increased in membership and influence, each a credit to
its special community, and five of them owning their own homes.
The Safford ' Sahuara ' has been succeeded by a thriving Woman's
Club. It was a small club with limited membership, devoted to the
study of history and literature.
It is interesting to look over and compare the Year
Books issued by the Federation for by this means, more
than by any other, can one gain an idea of the growth
and development of the organization. The first Year
Book, a modest little green pamphlet of sixteen pages,
served for a four year record, and bears the date on its
cover, " YEAR BOOK, 1903-1907." It contains only a
list of officers for the four years, of the State, and Gen-
eral Federations — with which the Federation affiliated
very soon after its organization — a list of the committees,
of which there were but six, the Constitution and By-
La ws, and the directory of federated clubs. The latter
shows twelve clubs, with a total membership of three
hundred and seventy-three. A striking contrast to the
Year Book of Nineteen Sixteen, which is a substantial
volume of seventy-nine pages, full of interesting reports
from some twenty Departments and Committees, with a
greatly augmented club and membership list.
The present president of the State Federation is Mrs.
H. A. Morgan, of Willcox.
The eight clubs that have their own buildings are Tuc-
son, to which reference has already been made, Bisbee,
Florence, Glendale, Prescott, Yuma Valley, Madison Im-
The Women's Clubs of Arizona 245
provement Club of Phoenix, and the Women's Club of
Phoenix. The latter building is a most beautiful and
convenient structure, erected in 1907 at a cost (including
the lot) of over $20,000. The Club is incorporated with
a capital stock of $10,000, divided into 2000 shares at
$5.00 each. Every member of the Club must own at
least one share of this stock. From the ample porch one
enters a large reception hall, containing an immense hos-
pitable-looking fireplace. The auditorium is large and
spacious, with adequate stage and dressing-rooms.
Thus the women of the new State have shown their
ability to rise to the needs of the pressing hours, and by
starting out with the idea that their club-houses are to be
open centers of refinement and culture for all women,
rather than the secluded meeting-places of the few, are
furthering the cause of true democracy and mental and
spiritual uplift in their respective communities.
CHAPTER XIX
THE LITERATURE AND ART OF ARIZONA
IF a country may be judged in any degree by the meas-
ure of its inspirations, then indeed is Arizona a land of
large power, a land unique and triumphant. For there
are two classes of minds influenced towards expression
by anything wonderful, remarkable or unusual in Nature.
These are the minds at the two extremes of man's devel-
opment — the child mind of the race and the mind of the
man of highest culture. Arizona has the marvelous
power of stimulating the imagination and producing lit-
erary expression to the fullest degree in both these types
of mind. The child mind of the race is the Indian mind,
for the adult Indian is but the race in its child stage of
development. The Indian legends given in my Indians
of the Painted Desert Region are but a mere sug-
gestion of the wealth of such fascinating lore that Ari-
zona has germinated and brought forth in the minds of
its Indian children.
On the other extreme of the literary ladder is the mod-
ern scientist. Trained in superlative measure to obser-
vation, collation of isolated facts, arrangement and an-
alysis, with logical deduction therefrom, schooled to per-
fect precision in the use of language, disciplined to exact
expression, that which he writes or says may be regarded
as the last word (so far as the race has progressed) of
human inspiration and expression. It must also be re-
garded as a tribute to the inspirational power of the land
that called it forth. The modern scientist is equipped
240
The Literature and Art of Arizona 247
for criticism and comparison as no other man in the past
history of the world could be. This is an age of easy
travel, of speedy transition to every known part of the
world — civilized or uncivilized. Sven Hedin wishes to
traverse the deserts of Asia, and in no longer a time
than it would have taken his grandfather to go to Paris
and back, or at least to Moscow and back, he makes the
journey, travels over the desert, and reports on it.
Roosevelt desires to see unknown South America, and in
four or five days (speaking colloquially) from the time
of his leaving the capitals of civilization he is on the out-
skirts of uncivilization and about to enter its unknown
precincts. The surface of the whole earth is being trav-
eled over to find new inspirations, new sources of expres-
sion, and the scientist has been, and is, foremost in the
ranks of these advance guards of knowledge. Hence he
comes to Arizona not like a child, virgin to impressions,
but trained to observation of every variety of scenery,
from the quietly pastoral to the stupendously majestic,
the serenely calm to the vividly emotional, the deliciously
soothing to the rudely arousing. In other words, he is
as blase to scenery as the confirmed theatre- and opera-
goer is to plays.
Yet one has but to look over the tomes — yes, tomes
is the word, for a tome is a ponderous volume — of the
scientists, all of them inspired by Arizona, to stand in
amazement at their number and marvellous variety. For
there they are, dealing with Archaeology, Botany, Cave-
and Cliff-Dwellers, Ethnology, Forestry, Geology, His-
tory, Irrigation, Jesuits, Kaolin (and other minerals),
Lexicography, Mining, and all the way down the alphabet
— not made for children, but the most thoughtful men
and women of our advanced and progressive civilization.
But " dry-as-dust scientific tomes ! " the general reader
248 Arizona, the Wonderland
exclaims : " Who cares even to look into such uninter-
esting volumes? Only a musty old professor, a big-wig,
a man lost to all sense of humanity, whose juices of life
were long since dried up, would care to peep into the
tomes to which you refer ! "
Indeed, sir, it may seem to be as you think, but in liter-
ature as in everything else within human ken :
" Full many a flower is born to blush unseen,
And waste its sweetness on the desert air."
Pray, allow me to be your guide to show you the des-
ert. Mayhap you will find what John C. Van Dyke did
when he stumbled upon it. Mankind has its dreads, its
fears, that are just as absurd and baseless as the dreads
and fears of a nightmare. The desert is one of them.
Van Dyke found it full of allurement, charm, fascina-
tion, delight, enchantment. Why? The desert planted
a seed in his highly cultivated soul that speedily germi-
nated in one of the classics of the English language, pro-
duced on this side of the Atlantic.
Here is a desert — you think — of scientific words. It
is one of the tomes of Clarence E. Dutton, and is on the
Grand Canyon of Arizona. Of course, he, the author,
scares " the likes of you " away from his book by making
the title The Tertiary History of the Grand Canyon Dis-
trict. You're not interested in geology. No! But you
are interested in exquisite descriptions of wonderful scen-
ery. Read this, then, and let your nostrils inhale the fra-
grance of this one " flower " of the " desert of Arizona
scientific literature." Major Dutton is describing one of
the side gorges of the Greatest Gorge of Them All. He
says:
"Near Short Creek the Vermillion Cliffs break into truncated
towers of great beauty and grandeur, with strongly emphasized
The Literature and Art of Arizona 249
vertical line and decorations, suggestive of cathedral architecture on a
colossal scale. Still loftier and more ornate become the structures
as we approach the Virgen. At length they reach the sublime. The
altitudes increase until they approach two thousand feet above the
plain. The wall is recessed with large amphitheaters, buttressed with
huge spurs and decorated with towers and pinnacles. Here, too,
for the first time, along their westward trend, the Vermillion Cliffs
send off buttes. And giant buttes they verily are, rearing their
unassailable summits into the domain of the clouds, rich with the
aspiring forms of Gothic type, and flinging back in red and purple
the intense sunlight poured over them. Could the imagination blanch
those colors, it might compare them with vast icebergs, rent from
the front of a glacier and floating majestically out to sea, only here
it is the parent mass that recedes, melting away through the ages,
while its offspring stands still, yet the analogy would be a feeble
one, for the buttes are grander, more definite in form, and many
times loftier. But the climax of this scenery is still beyond.
" Late in the autumn of 1880 I rode along the base of the Ver-
million Cliffs from Kanab to the Virgen, having the esteemed com-
panionship of Mr. Holmes.1 We had spent the summer and most
of the autumn among the caves of the Uinkaret, in the dreamy
parks and forests of the Kaibab, and in the solitudes of the inter-
vening desert; and our sensibilities had been somewhat overtasked
by the scenery of the Grand Canyon. It seemed to us that all
grandeur and beauty thereafter beheld must be mentally projected
against the recollection of those scenes, and be dwarfed into com-
monplace by the comparison, but as we moved onwards the walls
increased in altitude, in animation, and in power. At length the
towers of Short Creek burst into view, and, beyond, the great cliff
in long perspective thrusting out into the desert plain its gables and
spurs. The day was a rare one for this region. The mild, sub-
tropical autumn was over, and just giving place to the first ap-
proaches of winter. A sullen storm had been gathering from the
southwest, and the first rain for many months was falling, mingled
with snow. Heavy clouds rolled up against the battlements, spread-
ing their fleeces over turret and crest, and sending down curling
flecks of white mist into the nooks and recesses between towers
and buttresses. The next day was rarer still, with sunshine and
storm battling for the mastery. Rolling masses of cumuli rose up
into the blue to incomprehensible heights, their flanks and summits
1 Mr. William H. Holmes, one of the foremost figures in Amer-
ican archaeology, ethnology, and geology, afterwards Chief of the
Bureau of American Ethnology and now Curator of Ethnology in the
National Museum, Washington, D. C.
250 Arizona, the Wonderland
gleaming with sunlight, their nether surfaces above the desert as
flat as a ceiling, and showing, not the dull neutral gray of the east,
but a rosy tinge caught from the reflected red of rocks and soil.
As they drifted rapidly against the great barrier, the currents from
below flung upward to the summits, rolled the vaporous masses into
vast whorls, wrapping them around the towers and the crest-lines,
and scattering torn shreds of mist along the rock-faces. As the day
wore on the sunshine gained the advantage. From overhead the
cloud-masses stubbornly withdrew, leaving a few broken ranks to
maintain a feeble resistance. But far in the northwest, over the
Colob, they rallied their black forces for a more desperate struggle,
and answered with defiant flashes of lightning the incessant pour
of sun-shafts."
That is a long quotation, but its vivid power almost
takes one's breath away, and I venture the assertion that
there is nothing in literature that surpasses it. Yet it is
but one of many such passages I might find in Button, in-
spired by the scenery and atmosphere of Arizona. Take
his description, for instance, of the Grand Canyon from
Point Sublime, or his account of crossing the Kanab
Desert, or the Bright Angel Amphitheater. They are
equally powerful, pure and stimulating.
Yet the reader must not jump to the conclusion that
Button is a mere rhapsodist, an artist who spreads his
color on canvas with his palette knife, and who is con-
tent to make big, vivid impressions, without any care for
details. Read with me his purely scientific chapters.
They have the definite, restrained precision of an adding
machine. Every word is weighed, valued, and placed in
its proper place. His observations and deductions are
stated with the crystal purity of mathematical theorems.
And it is this quality of restrained strength in his scientific
work that makes these prose poems of his so gripping, and
at the same time so valuable. One knows they are the
outpourings of a clear-seeing, mathematically exact,
hence truthful, scientific mind. They are descriptions to
The Literature and Art of Arizona 251
be relied upon. One does not wish to waste his time, in
this active, bustling life, in reading descriptions of scen-
ery, no matter how graphic they are, how well written, un-
less they are true. Button's words, though vivid in col-
oring, rich in harmonious contrasts and powerful disson-
ances, meet this rigid requirement. Had he written a book
on these regions for popular consumption, as did Clarence
King, his namesake geologist, and superior in official sta-
tion, but brother in literary kinship — whose Mountain-
eering in California has long been regarded as a classic
— he would be as well know popularly as is King, and his
book would forever rank as one of the chief of the class-
ics of Arizona.
Were it not for these facts I should feel that I had de-
voted too much time to Button, but I am convinced I
have already earned the reader's gratitude for introduc-
ing him to the rich treasures of this almost unknown
author, speaking from the popular standpoint. Yet there
are many others on the list, some of whom are a close
second to Button. Major J. W. Powell, the richly en-
dowed mentality that organized the United States Geo-
logical Survey, and the Bureau of American Ethnology,
and for twenty or more years so efficiently directed them
as to make the work of American scientists in these lines
honored and respected throughout the world, found
many of his highest inspirations in Arizona. His first
great literary work,1 dashed off at white heat, without
any thought of care as to literary expression, or conform-
ity to literary standards, is full of graphic eloquence, and
I could fill scores of pages with quotations from it.
So also can one turn to his later Canyons of the Colo-
rado 2 — a book sadly too little known because stupidly
1 Explorations of the Colorado River of the West and its Tribu-
taries, Washington, 1875.
2 This book is now in preparation for reprinting, and as soon as
252 Arizona, the Wonderland
buried by an inexperienced firm of publishers — and on
almost every page there are passages of burning elo-
quence, vivid and native rhetoric that hold one spell-
bound. Who is there that cannot see and feel this won-
derful little piece of description that yet sets before the
mind Nature's operations over a vast area. He is speak-
ing of the sources of the Colorado River.
" This high region, on the East, North and West, is set with ranges
of snow-clad mountains, attaining an altitude above the sea varying
from eight to fourteen thousand feet. All winter long, on its moun-
tain crested rim, snow falls, filling the gorges, half burying the for-
ests, and covering the crags and peaks with a mantle woven by the
winds from the waves of the sea — a mantle of snow. When the
summer-sun comes this snow melts, and tumbles down the moun-
tainsides in millions of cascades. Then million cascade brooks unite
to form ten thousand torrent creeks ; ten thousand torrent creeks
unite to form a hundred rivers beset with cataracts ; a hundred roar-
ing rivers unite to form the Colorado, which rolls, a mad, turbid
stream, into the Gulf of California.
There it is, pure prose, yet Dante, Goethe, Moliere,
Shakespeare, never wrote anything more poetic, and the
marvel of it is that it is absolutely true. The student will
also be glad to have his attenton called to another fact
in connection with Major Powell's literary genius. It is
well known that scientists, in dealing with the enlarging
boundaries of their respective fields, are constantly ex-
periencing the dearth of proper terms with which to ex-
press their meaning. In the realm of geology this want
was especially exasperating and limiting. Today it has
one of the richest and most complete vocabularies of all
the sciences, and I venture the assertion that Major
Powell coined more of the new words that have stuck,
and are today in general use, than any other ten geologists
or lexicographers of the world. And, further, practically
conditions justify it will be issued by The Radiant Life Press, Pasa-
dena, Calif.
Photograph by McCullock, Phoenix, Arizona.
LOOKING UP SALT RIVER CANYON TOWARDS THE ROOSEVELT DAM.
On the Apache Trail, Arizona.
The Literature and Art of Arizona 253
all of these words were coined under the inspiration of
Arizona scenery and physiography and while he sat and
thought under the pure cobalt of the Arizona sky.
But long long before Button and Powell, as far back as
the sixteenth century, Arizona inspired Spanish pens to
write of its wonders. Coronado and his conquistadores
passed through the valley of the San Pedro and over the
mountain to the far-famed " Seven Cities of Cibola."
Then Ensign Tovar was sent over the desert to the
" Province of Tusayan," the villages of the Hopi, with
seventeen horsemen and three or four foot soldiers.
Castaneda thus tells the story of the first white men's
experiences with these interesting people :
When they reached the region, they entered the country so quietly
that nobody observed them, because there were no settlements or
farms between one village and another and" the people do not leave
the villages except to go to their farms, especially at this time, when
they heard that Cibola had been captured by very fierce people, who
traveled on animals which ate people. This information was gen-
erally believed by those who had never seen horses, although it was
so strange as to cause much wonder. Our men arrived after night-
fall and were able to conceal themselves under the edge of the
village, where they heard the natives talking in their houses. But
in the morning they were discovered and drew up in regular order,
while the natives came out to meet them, with bows, and shields,
and wooden clubs, drawn up in lines without any confusion. The
interpreter was given a chance to speak to them and give them due
warning, for they were very intelligent people, but nevertheless they
drew lines and insisted that our men should not go across these
lines toward their village. While they were talking, some men acted
as if they would cross the lines, and one of the natives lost control
of himself and struck a horse a blow on the cheek of the bridle with
his club. Friar Juan, fretted by the time that was being wasted in
talking with them, said to the captain : " To tell the truth, I do not
know why we came here." When the men heard this, they gave
the Santiago * so suddenly that they ran down many Indians and the
others fled to the town in confusion. Some, indeed, did not have a
1 The " Santiago " was the Spanish war-cry.
254 Arizona, the Wonderland
chance to do this, so quickly did the people in the village come out
with presents, asking for peace.
While with the Hopis Tovar learned of a large and
wonderful river, and he sent one of his captains, Car-
denas, to find out all about it. Thus the Grand Canyon
of the Colorado River was discovered, and here is what
the historian says of the expedition :
After they had gone about twenty days they came to the banks
of the river, which seemed to be more than three or four leagues
above the stream which flowed between them. This country was
elevated and full of low twisted pines, very cold, and lying open
toward the north, so that, this being the warm season, no one could
live there on account of the cold. They spent three days on this
bank looking for a passage down to the river which looked from
above as if the water was six feet across, although the Indians said
it was half a league wide. It was impossible to descend, for after
these three days Captain Melgosa and one Juan Caleras and another
companion, who were the three lightest and most agile men, made
an attempt to go down at the least difficult place, and went down
until those who were above were unable to keep sight of them.
They returned about four o'clock in the afternoon, not having suc-
ceeded in reaching the bottom on account of the great difficulties
which they found, because what seemed to be easy from above was
not so, but instead very hard and difficult. They said that they had
been down about a third of the way and that the river seemed very
large from the place which they reached, and that from what they saw
they thought the Indians had given the width correctly. Those who
stayed above had estimated that some huge rocks on the sides of
the cliffs seemed to be about as tall as a man, but those who went
down swore that when they reached these rocks they were bigger
than the great tower of Seville. They did not go farther up the
river, because they could not get water. Before this they had had
to go a league or two inland every day late in the evening in
order to find water, and the guides said that if they should go four
days farther it would not be possible to go on because there was
no water within three or four days, for when they travel across
this region themselves they take with them women loaded with water
in gourds, and bury the gourds of water along the way, to use when
they return, and besides this, they travel in one day over what it
takes us two days to accomplish.
Scores of volumes of Explorations and Reports from
The Literature and Art of Arizona 255
that day to this might be quoted from, and rare pieces
of description of vivid literary power given to the world,
which is now totally unconscious of them. Espejo's
narrative is fascinating. So is that of Juan de Onate, the
real conqueror of Arizona and New Mexico ; then, when
we come to our own day, Emory tells us of the journey
with the Army of the West in 1846-7, and later of the
Mexican Boundary Survey; Sitgreaves of the Zuni and
Colorado Rivers ; Beale of a wagon-road from Fort De-
fiance over Arizona to the Colorado River, reminding one
of the reports made by Don Juan Bautista de Anza and
Padre Escalante about the same time that Washington
and Jefferson were making explorations into republican
forms of government on the far-away Atlantic shore.
Then there was Ives who came up the Colorado, and
down Diamond Creek to the home of the Wallapais and
even into Havasu (Cataract) Canyon and by the Grand
Canyon to the Hopi villages before he reached Fort De-
fiance. Some of his descriptions are pure literature, as,
for instance, where he describes the junction of Diamond
Creek with the Grand Canyon and the Colorado River.
Here it is :
"This morning we left the valley and followed the course of a
creek down a ravine, in the bed of which the water at intervals sank
and rose for two or three miles, when it altogether disappeared.
The ravine soon attained the proportions of a canyon. The bottom
was rocky and irregular, and there were some jump-off s over which
it was hard to make the pack animals pass. The vegetation began
to disappear, leaving only a few stunted cedars projecting from the
sides of the rugged bluffs. The place grew wilder and grander. The
sides of the tortuous canyon became loftier, and before long we were
hemmed in by walls two thousand feet high. The scenery much re-
sembled that in the Black Canyon, excepting that the rapid descent,
the increasing magnitude of the colossal piles that blocked the end
of the vista, and the corresponding depth and gloom of the gaping
chasms into which we were plunging, imparted an unearthly char-
acter to a way that might have resembled the portals of the infernal
256 Arizona, the Wonderland
regions. Harsh screams issuing from aerial recesses in the canyon
sides and apparitions of goblin-like figures perched in rifts and
hollows of the impending cliffs, gave an odd reality to this impres-
sion. At short distances other avenues of equally magnificent pro-
portions came in from one side or the other; and no trail being left
on the rocky pathway, the idea suggested itself that were the guides
to desert us our experience might further resemble that of the
dwellers in the unblest abodes — in the difficulty of getting out.
" Huts of the rudest construction, visible here and there in some
sheltered niche or beneath a projecting rock, and the sight of a
hideous old squaw, staggering under a bundle of fuel, showed that
we had penetrated into the domestic retreats of the Walapais nation.
Our party being, in all probability, the first company of whites that
had ever been seen by them, we anticipated producing a great effect,
and were a little chagrined when the old woman, and two or three
others of both sexes that were met, went by without taking the slight-
est notice of us. If pack-4rains had been in the habit of passing
twenty times a day they could not have manifested a more complete
indifference.
" Seventeen miles of this strange travel had now been accom-
plished. The road was becoming more difficult, and we looked
ahead distrustfully into the dark and apparently interminable wind-
ings and wondered where we were to find a camping place. At last
we struck a wide branch canyon coming in from the south, and saw
with joyful surprise a beautiful and brilliantly clear stream of water
gushing over a pebbly bed in the centre, and shooting from between
the rocks in sparkling jets and miniature cascades. On either side
was an oasis of verdure — young willows and a thick patch of grass.
Camp was speedily formed, and men and mules have had a welcome
rest after their fatiguing journey.
A hundred yards below camp the canyon takes a turn; but as it
was becoming very dark, all further examinations were postponed
till to-morrow. In the course of the evening Ireteba came into
my tent, and I asked him how far we had still to travel before
reaching the great river. To my surprise he informed me that
the mouth of the creek is only a few yards below the turn, and that
we are now camped just on the verge of the Big Canyon of the
Colorado.
Camp 69, Cedar Forest, April 5 — A short walk down the bed
of Diamond River, on the morning after we had reached it, verified
the statement of Ireteba, and disclosed the famous Colorado Canyon.
The view from the ridge, beyond the creek to which the Walapais
had first conducted us, had shown that the plateaus further north
and east were several thousand feet higher than that through which
The Literature and Art of Arizona 257
the Colorado cuts at this point, and the canyons proportionally
deeper ; but the scene was sufficiently grand to well repay for the
labor of the descent. The canyon was similar in character to others
that have been mentioned, but on a larger scale, and thus far out-
rivalled in grandeur. Mr. Mollhausen has taken a sketch, which
gives a better idea of it than any description. The course of the
river could be traced for only a few hundred yards, above or below
but what had been seen from the table-land showed that we were at
the apex of a great southern bend. The walls, on either side, rose
directly out of the water. The river was about fifty yards wide.
The channel was studded with rocks, and the torrent rushed through
like a mill-race.
The feelings of some of the early day explorers may
be well understood from a reading of the next two quo-
tations, the first of which also shows how dangerous it
is to prophesy, for the Grand Canyon is now attracting
hundreds of thousands of people to view its stupendous
wonders :
Our reconnoitering parties have now been out in all directions,
and everywhere have been headed off by impassable obstacles. The
positions of the main water-courses have been determined with con-
siderable accuracy. The region last explored is, of course, alto-
gether valueless. It can be approached only from the south, and
after entering it there is nothing to do but to leave. Ours has been
the first, and will doubtless be the last, party of whites to visit this
profitless locality. It seems intended by nature that the Colorado
River, along the greater portion of its lonely and majestic way, shall
be forever unvisited and undisturbed. The handful of Indians that
inhabit the sequestered retreats where we discovered them have
probably remained in the same condition, and of the same number,
for centuries.
The second is a vivid description of a portion of the
Painted Desert:
" The summit being attained, a vast extent of country — sweeping
from Flax River around to the northeast — was brought into view.
It was a flat table-land, from which wide tracts had been eroded
to a moderate depth, leaving exposed lines of low bluffs and isolated
fragments of the removed stratum. The scene was one of utter
258 Arizona, the Wonderland
desolation. Not a tree nor a shrub broke its monotony. The edges
of the mesas were flaming red, and the sand threw back the sun's
rays in a yellow glare. Every object looked hot and dry and dreary.
The animals began to give out. We knew that it was desperate to
keep on, but felt unwilling to return, and forced the jaded brutes
to wade through the powdery impalpable dust for fifteen miles. The
country, if possible, grew worse. There was not a spear of grass
and from the porousness of the soil and rocks it was impossible
that there should be a drop of water. A point was reached which
commanded a view twenty or thirty miles ahead, but the fiery bluffs
and yellow sand, paled somewhat by distance, extended to the end
of the vista. Even beyond the ordinary limit of vision were other
bluffs and sand fields, lifted into view by the mirage, and elongating
the hideous picture. The only relief to the eye was a cluster of blue
pinnacles far to the east that promised a different character of
country. It was useless, however, to take the risk of proceeding
directly thither. The experience of the day had demonstrated the
hopelessness of trying to drive the mules for any length of time
through an untrodden and yielding soil, and it was determined, as a
last chance, to go back to Flax River and ascend the bank, at the
hazard of having to make a long circuit, till some Indian trail should
be encountered leading in the desired direction and affording a
beaten way practicable to be followed.
"The night spent upon the desert showed that this condemned
region was not entirely devoid of life. As the sun declined and a
pleasanter atmosphere succeeded to the oppressive heat, scorpions,
spiders, rattlesnakes, and centipedes emerged from their retreats
to enjoy the evening air. A collector in that department of natural
history could have reaped a harvest of these reptiles in almost
any part of our camp-ground."
Upon the Indians of Arizona a hundred, a thousand,
pages could be gathered together of quotations, all of
them interesting, and most of them deserving of classifi-
cation as literature. For instance, there are the writings
of Letherman, who described the Navaho as early as
1855, followed by Powell, Stevenson, Gushing, Bourke,
the Mindeleffs, Fewkes, Holmes, Hodge, Hough, Dor-
sey, Matthews, Voth, Berard, Lummis, and a score, a
hundred of others. The works of Washington Mat-
thews are pure literature, as well as pure science. Here,
The Literature and Art of Arizona 259
for instance, is his description of the ceremonial pictures
of the Navahos :
"The pictures accompanying the Navaho rites are among the
most transitory in the history of art. Similar works have been ob-
served among other tribes, both nomadic and sedentary, and the
observers have designated them as 'sand-paintings' 'sand-altars,'
etc. They are drawn in all the great rites, and even in some of
the lesser rites — those of only one day's duration — small but hand-
some dry-paintings are sometimes made. They vary in size from
four to twelve feet in diameter. Sometimes the fire in the centre
of the medicine-lodge must be removed in order to accommodate
them. The groundwork is sand, which is conveyed in blankets into
the medicine-lodge, and spread out over the floor to the depth of
about three inches. It is smoothed with the broad oaken battens
used in weaving.
" Before the sand is brought in, the pigments are ground to pow-
der and put on broad pieces of pine bark, which serve as trays —
or palettes, shall we say ? The pigments are five in number — white,
red, yellow, black, and gray. The white, red, and yellow are made
of sandstone. The black is made of powdered charcoal, with which
a little sandstone is mixed to facilitate the grinding and give weight
to the powder. The gray, made of black and white mixed in suit-
able proportions, is intended to represent blue, is called blue by the
Navahos, and combined with the other colors has the effect of blue
in the paintings. It will be spoken of as blue in the subsequent de-
scriptions. The Navahos use indigo and a native bluish mineral
pigment to paint masks, kethawns, and other small objects; but for
the dry-paintings, such a large quantity is needed that these would
be too expensive. To apply the colored powder, a pinch of it is taken
up between the thumb and first two fingers and allowed to fall
slowly on the sand, while the thumb is moved over the fingers.
" To paint one of these large pictures may require the labor of
several men — a dozen sometimes — working from early morning
till late in the afternoon. The picture must be finished before dark,
for it is impracticable to work on it with such artificial lights as the
Indians can command. While the work is in progress the priest
who conducts the ceremonies does little more than direct and
criticize. The operators have received a certain initiation. They
have seen the picture painted before and are familiar with its de-
tails. If an error is made the faulty part is not erased; sand is
spread on it to obliterate it, and the corrected drawing is made
on the new deposit of sand. The pictures are drawn according to
exact and established rules. Some parts are measured by palms and
260 Arizona, the Wonderland
spans, and not a line of the sacred designs may be varied in them.
In drawing straight lines the colored powder is poured over a tight-
ened cord, but in a few cases the artist is allowed to indulge his
fancy, thus, in drawing the embroidered pouches which the gods
wear suspended at the waist, the limner may, within certain limits,
give his god as handsome a pouch as he wishes and embroider it
to suit his notion. The naked forms of the mythical characters
are drawn first and then the clothing and ornaments are laid on.
"When the picture is finished a number of ceremonies (differing
somewhat in different rites) are performed over it. Pollen or corn-
meal may be placed on certain parts of the sacred figures, and one of
these substances may be scattered over it. Water of medicinal in-
fusions may be applied to it. At length the patient is brought in
and placed sitting on the picture. Moistening his palms, the shaman
or an assistant takes the colored dust from various parts of the
divine figures and applies it to similar parts of the subject's body.
Medicine is then usually administered in four draughts. When the
patient leaves, others in the lodge who are ill, or fancy themselves
ill, take dust on their palms from the picture and apply it to their
own persons. He who has headache takes dust from the head in the
picture and applies it to his own head. He who has sore feet takes
dust from the pictured feet. When all are done the picture is
badly marred; it is then totally obliterated, — the method and cere-
mony of obliteration differing in different rites, — and the sand on
which it was drawn is taken out of the lodge and thrown away.
The floor of the lodge is swept, and the uninitiated, entering a
moment later, has no evidence of what has taken place."
A fascinating book on the Indians is Life Among the
Apaches, by Major John C. Cremony, but neither in its
discernment of the real Apache, nor in its literary quality
can it be compared with John G. Bourke's On the Border
with Crook. In this latter volume, which sparkles and
scintillates with wit, humor and vivid descriptions of
scenery, as well as absorbing accounts of conflicts with
the Apaches, there are scores out of its five hundred pages
that are pure literature and well worth quoting. The
book ought to be an historical and literary text book in
every higher grade school in Arizona. In the chapter
on the Apaches I have given several quotations from this
delectable volume. Here is a brief description of old
The Literature and Art of Arizona 261
Camp Grant which will give one some kind of an idea as
to the provision Uncle Sam made in early days for the
comfort and health of his brave officers and soldiers who
were protecting his frontier and making the advance of
civilization possible:
" The quarters were all in bustle and confusion, and even at their
best would have looked primitive and uncouth. They were made
of unhewn logs set upright into the ground and chinked with mud,
and roofed in the same early English style, with the addition of a
ceiling of old pieces of canvas to keep the centipedes from dropping
down.
" On the walls were a couple of banjos, and there were intima-
tions that the service of the troop had been of a decidedly active
nature, in the spoils of Apache villages clustered against the cot-
tonwood saplings. There were lances with tips of obsidian, and
others armed with the blades of old cavalry sabres; quivers of
coyote and mountain lion skin filled with arrows, said by the Mexi-
can guides to be poisonous ; and other relics of aboriginal ownership
in raw-hide playing-cards, shields and one or two of the century-
plant fiddles.
The gloom of the long sleeping room was relieved by the bright
colors of a few Navaho blankets, and there hung from the rafters
large earthenware jars, called "ollas," the manufacture of the peace-
ful Papagoes, in which gallons of water cooled by rapid evaporation.
There were no tin wash-basins, but a good substitute was found in
the pretty Apache baskets, woven so tightly of grasses and roots
that water could no more leak through them than it could through
the better sort of the Navaho blankets. A half dozen, maybe more,
of the newspaper illustrations and cartoons of the day were pasted
in spots where they would be most effective, and over in the coolest
corner was a wicker cage of a pet mocking-bird. There were
other pets by this time in the Apache children captured in the
skirmishes already had with the natives. The two oldest of the
lot — "Sunday" and "Dandy Jim" — were never given any dinner
until they had each first shot an arrow into the neck of an olive-
bottle inserted into one of the adobe walls of the quartermaster's
corral. The ease with which these youngsters not over nine or ten
years old did this used to surprise me, but it seemed to make them
regard the Americans as a very peculiar people for demanding such
a slight task.
Hamlin Garland was induced to visit the wilds of Ari-
262 Arizona, the Wonderland
zona to see the Hopi Indian villages, and also to witness
the Snake Dance, that was already exciting the attention
of the world. The result was an article in Harper's
Weekly, full of the spirit of Arizona's great stretches of
sandy waste, her glorious colorings, her wonderful abor-
iginal people, her marvellous mesa-heights, and above all,
of that mystic quality in desert, color, people, mesa and
everything that so appealed to him.
Gwendolyn Overton, whose father was an officer in the
U. S. army, felt the urge to write about an Arizona
maiden, born of an American father and an Apache
mother, who, long orphaned of her mother, at her fath-
er's death went East to be cared for by one of his
friends. There, though educated in the white man's
ways of civilized life, feeling the " heritage of unrest "
of her Indian blood, she finally broke loose and became
an Indian. Hence the title of the book, indicated by the
quotation marks. The story is a fascinating one and
brought great fame to its author.
" Bucky " O'Neill, the hero of San Juan, of whom
Roosevelt wrote glowingly in describing that celebrated
charge — O'Neill, Arizona cowboy, prospector, miner,
politician, mayor of Prescott, yielded to the urge and
wrote many interesting stories of Arizona life. One of
them, The Requiem of the Drums, attracted more than
passing attention. It was about a drummer and an
Apache maiden, who lived in one of the unconventional
relationships sometimes winked at by the officers of the
army, owing to peculiar conditions, and about the useful-
ness of the woman in the case who acts as a go-between
with the hostile Indians and an interpreter.
Marah Ellis Ryan visited the Hopis on their pictur-
esque mesas. She absorbed their spirit and The Flute
of the Gods was one of the earliest outcomes of the in-
Photograph by Courtesy of Graves' Indian Store, Phoenix.
A PUEBLO INDIAN MEDICINE MAN SINGING THE " CHANTS OF THE
OLD " TO THE BEAT OF THE SACRED TOMBE.
Photograph by Courtesy ot Graves' Indian Store, thoenix.
A PUEBLO INDIAN POTTER.
The Literature and Art of Arizona 263
spirations she received. This book is a revelation to
most American readers of the marvellous similarity that
exists in the heart-throbs, the high ambitions of soul in
Indian hero and heroine as well as in white-skinned men
and women.
Then she essayed a joyous task, and so successfully
achieved it, that the Love Letters of an Indian will long
remain as one of the sweetest, tenderest, and most beau-
tiful of volumes descriptive of the arousement of the
heart to its highest emotion.
Many a story has been inspired by the Arizona Mexi-
can. Owen Wister yielded to this natural suggestion
and wrote La Tinaya Bonita, a story which appears in
his Red Men and White, wherein Mexican mysticism,
superstition, tradition and the love that knows no race,
color, nor previous condition are interestingly com-
mingled.
Sharlot Hall, an Arizona pioneer's daughter — and
one who might almost be called a pioneer herself — came
to Arizona in 1882, from Kansas, where she was the
second white child born in Lincoln County. In the
thirty-five years of her Arizona life she has seen with the
observing eye, listened with the attentive ear, studied with
the active brain, and understood with the loving and sym-
pathetic heart. Nothing has escaped her all-embracing
vision. With poetic insight she has seen below the sur-
face, and with literary instinct has written of what
she has seen and felt. She has stories and poems of
Mexicans, Indians, soldiers, prospectors, horses, miners,
mill-hands, cowboys, sheep-herders, conquistadors, pio-
neers, and almost every conceivable phase of Arizona life.
One little volume, only, has been collected, of her poems,
and it is a classic. Its title, Cactus and Pine, suggests
desert levels and mountain heights. She is familiar with
264 Arizona, the Wonderland
both, and has written sweet, dignified, stately, appealing
verse, real poetry, that Longfellow, Bryant, Holmes,
Whittier, would have been proud to have written. Here
is her poem on Arizona written when President and Con-
gress alike were determined to make New Mexico and
Arizona one State :
" No beggar she in the mighty hall where her bay-crowned sisters
wait,
No empty-handed pleader for the right of a free-born state,
No child, with a child's insistence, demanding a gilded toy,
But a fair-browed, queenly woman, strong to create or destroy —
Wise for the need of the sons she has bred in the school where
weaklings fail,
Where cunning is less than manhood, and deeds, not words, avail —
With the high, unswerving purpose that measures and overcomes,
And the faith in the Farthest Vision that builded her hard-won
homes.
" Link her, in her clean-proved fitness, in her right to stand alone —
Secure for whatever future in the strength that her past has won —
Link her, in her morning beauty, with another, however fair?
And open your jealous portal and bid her enter there
With shackles on wrist and ankle, and dust on her stately head,
And her proud eyes dim with weeping? No! Bar your doors in-
stead
And seal them fast forever! but let her go her way —
Uncrowned if you will, but unshackled, to wait for a larger day.
" Ay ! Let her go bare-handed, bound with no grudging gift,
Back to her own free spaces where her rock-ribbed mountains lift
Their walls like a sheltering fortress — back to her house and blood.
And we of her blood will go our way and reckon your judgment
good.
We will wait outside your sullen door till the stars you wear grow
dim
As the pale dawn-stars that swim and fade o'er our mighty Canyon's
rim.
We will lift no hand for the bays ye wear, nor covet your robes
of state —
But ah! by the skies above us all, we will shame ye while we wait!
The Literature and Art of Arizona 265
" We will make ye the mold of an empire here in the land ye scorn,
While ye drowse and dream in your well-housed ease that States
at your nod are born.
Ye have blotted your own beginnings, and taught your sons to
forget
That ye did not spring fat-fed and old from the powers that bear
and beget.
But the while ye follow your smooth-made roads to a fireside safe
of fears,
Shall come a voice from a land still young, to sing in your age-
dulled ears
The hero song of a strife as fine as your fathers' fathers knew,
When they dared the rivers of unmapped wilds at the will of a bark
canoe —
" The song of the deed in the doing, of the work still hot from the
hand;
Of the yoke of man laid friendly-wise on the neck of a tameless land.
While your merchandise is weighing, we will bit and bridle and
rein
The floods of the storm-rocked mountains and lead them down to
the plain;
And the foam-ribbed, dark-hued waters, tired from that mighty
race,
Shall lie at the feet of palm and vine and know their appointed
place ;
And out of that subtle union, desert and mountain-flood,
Shall be homes for a nation's choosing, where no home else had
stood.
"We will match the gold of your minting, with its mint-stamp
dulled and marred
By the tears and blood that have stained it and the hands that have
clutched too hard,
With the gold that no man has lied for — the gold no woman has
made
The price of her truth and honor, plying a shameless trade —
The clean, pure gold of the mountains, straight from the strong,
dark earth,
With no tang or taint upon it from the hour of its primal birth.
The trick of the money-changer, shifting his coins as he wills,
Ye may keep — no Christ was bartered for the wealth of our lavish
hills.
266 Arizona, the Wonderland
" Yet we are a little people — too weak for the cares of state! "
Let us go our way ! When ye look again, ye shall find us, mayhap,
too great.
Cities we lack — and gutters where children snatch for bread;
Numbers — and hordes of starvelings, toiling but never fed.
Spare pains that would make us greater in the pattern that ye have
set;
We hold to the larger measure of the men that ye forget —
The men who, from trackless forests and prairies lone and far,
Hewed out the land where ye sit at ease and grudge us our fair-
won star.
" ' There yet be men, my masters,' though the net that the trickster
flings
Lies wide on the land to its bitter shame, and his cunning parley-
ings
Have deafened the ears of Justice, that was blind and slow of old.
Yet time, the last Great Judge, is not bought, or bribed, or sold ;
And Time and the Race shall judge us — not a league of trafficking
men,
Selling the trust of the people, to barter it back again ;
Palming the lives of millions as a handful of easy coin,
With a single heart to the narrow verge where craft and state-
craft join."
Here in stately meter and compulsive rhythm she sets
forth the claims of the State she loves. Every line pos-
sesses a dignity all its own, demanding recognition for
the native righteousness of the cause for which she
pleaded. In my previous work entitled California, Ro-
mantic and Beautiful, when desirous of quoting a poem
that should fully express the power and potency of the
West, I could find nothing that equalled her lines to
' The West," and I wish I had room to quote them here.
Suffice it to say that in Miss Hall's verse Arizona has
a worthy voice. She is the State's first great poet, the
Joaquin Miller of the arid Southwest, the singer of the
Sierra Anchas, and it is to be hoped she will live to sing
long.
Of the soldiers who came to fight the Indians so many
The Literature and Art of Arizona 267
stories have been written that it would take more than a
book of this size to contain them. Some of them are
true and some are fiction. Bourke's wonderful books
are accounts of his own experiences, and so are several
of the stories of Josephine Clifford McCrackin, whose
Overland Tales and Another Juanita contain personal
recitals of her life and adventures while she accompanied
her first husband, Lieutenant Clifford, to the pioneer army
posts of Arizona. To her latest book, The Woman Who
Lost Him, and Other Stories, Ambrose Bierce wrote an
introduction, and I had the pleasure of contributing a
sketch of her life which is more thrilling and exciting
than any romance. In these books Arizona is pictured
in the making, while the hands of the sculptor are still
in the yielding clay. Those indeed were thrilling, ex-
citing, tremendous days, when men and women alike —
if women were brave and foolish enough to go out into
such a land — held their lives in their hands and never
knew what a day or an hour might bring forth. To
illustrate: Two days before the time in which I now
write I rode in a finely equipped automobile from Tucson
to Tubac and the old mission of Tumacacori. We passed
a score or more of autos on the journey, going and re-
turning, and we were as happy and jolly a party as ever
hurried over Arizona's fine native roads, smiled upon by
Arizona's turquoise sky.
Years ago Josephine Clifford made the same trip,
though in an Army ambulance drawn by army mules
and accompanied by the wife of the major in charge at
Camp Lowell (Tucson), a visiting officer, the quartermas-
ter and an escort of twelve men. When near Tumacacori
the party was attacked by Apaches and barely escaped
with their lives. The story is thrillingly told in one of
her volumes.
268 Arizona, the Wonderland
Frederic Remington, whose literary ability was as
great as his artistic skill, spent much time in Arizona,
and he has left us many graphic reminders both in pen and
brush. One of his stories appeared in the Century Maga-
zine and is entitled " A Desert Romance." During the
Civil War, Fort Bowie was manned by volunteers from
New Mexico, commanded by Colonel Simms, who had
originally been a bookkeeper in New York. The Apaches
were giving much trouble, and the order had gone out that
no emigrant train should leave the post except on the first
of the month, when the regular soldier escort was avail-
able. But one day a Texan came into camp exhausted.
He had escaped from a caravan, held up at Ochoa Water-
hole. To the rescue ! The Apaches resented the attempt
to take out of their hands what they were already regard-
ing as their own. But Colonel Simms' heart had been
aroused by the sight of a beautiful young woman, the
daughter of old man Hall, the leader of the caravan. In
their anger, the Apaches made a fierce swoop on the es-
caping band, overriding everything, killing men, women
and children as they dashed by, and driving off the Col-
onel's horse on which he had placed the maiden whose face
had captured him. The caravan was later delayed by old
man Hall, who dropped behind, with a sack full of poi-
soned food. The Apaches got him, but they also got the
meal. Reaching the fort the Colonel's heart prompted
him to take out a rescue party, with old man Hall's son,
who asserted he was " goin' back after his sista." They
met with a band of Mexican rangers, who volunteered to
aid them, and also congratulated the Colonel on the great
crowd of Apaches he had left dead at the Ochoa water-
hole — poisoned, of course, by the old man's doctored
food. The story now turns upon the treachery of the
Mexican leader, who found and ran away with the
The Literature and Art of Arizona 269
maiden, was tracked by the Colonel clear into Mexico,
surrounded and shot by the Texan, while Miss Hall was
safely rescued. Whether she married the Colonel and
lived with him ever after, we are not told, but the story
is a good one and gives a faithful picture of the condi-
tions existent in those critical days.
Cyrus Townsend Brady, the fighting parson, whose
stories have thrilled hundreds of thousands, has a good
Arizona story in Harper's entitled " In the Box Canyon
of the Gila." It is of Apaches, the slaughtering of an
overtrusting farmer and his family, and of the vengeance
paid out to the Indians by the soldiers. It also reveals
— as a side light — the feeling some of the soldiers had
in those dreadful days in that the inscription on the wall
of the chancel of the little post chapel read : Eloi, Eloi,
lama Sabachthanif — My God, my God, why hast thou
forsaken me?
Prospectors and miners have ever been good themes
for short stories, and Owen Wister has given us one in
Specimen Jones, whose very name recalls one of Bret
Harte's characters — the Iron Pirate — because of his
thus designating the iron pyrites in the ore. Jones
gained his descriptive appellation from the fact that he
ever had secreted on his person various large or small
specimens of the ore he had picked up in his prospecting
trips.
Many are the mining stories told of Arizona, — lost
mines, rich placer mines, unexpected wealth gained just
when the hero was on the verge of desperation, etc., etc.
The theme is inexhaustible.
Of cowboys and sheepmen the same may be said.
Novels like In the Country God Forgot, Pardner of Blos-
som Range, Curly, When a Man's a Man, and a score of
others attest the popularity of this inspiration. Ray Stan-
270 Arizona, the Wonderland
nard Baker gives, in McClure's, a vivid picture of one of
the " roping " competitions so popular in the West, in his
" The Roping at Pascoe's," and Hamlin Garland makes
a cattleman the hero of his story, " Delmar of Pima,"
also in McClure's. This latter story tells of the arrogant
lawlessness of the cattlemen, their hatred of the sheep-
men, and their control of judges, sheriffs, and juries all
to their own selfish benefit. Delmar comes in and meets
them on their own ground, but by demanding strict ob-
servance of the law " cleans up " the country and in-
augurates a new era of square treatment for every man.
Will C. Barnes, now and for many years past in an
important position with the grazing section of the U.
S. National Forest Department, and for years the leader
of the Live Stock Sanitary Board of Arizona, has writ-
ten many cowboy stories for the magazines, his " Stam-
pede on the Turkey Track Range" being a vivid and
truthful picture of the life of the cowboy. Sharlot Hall,
too, in Out West, gives us the " Songs of the Cowboys,"
as well as fascinating stories of their lives, and W. Edgar
Woodruff, in the Arizona Magazine, under the caption
" Gathering of the Cattle Clans " gives us vivid pictures
of their lives and recreations.
The Mormons of Arizona have come in for their share
of literary exploitation. Three-quarters of a century of
abuse, slander, misrepresentation, and honest antagonism
and criticism have familiarized them with the various
opinions held of them by their fellow-citizens of the Uni-
ted States. Mormon principles have been discussed, pro
and con, from the United States Senate down to every
cross-roads and corner grocery. That there are, or were,
fundamental differences in the religious beliefs and social
practices of the Mormons that aroused fierce antagonism
in the " Gentiles," no one will deny, but it is also cer-
The Literature and Art of Arizona 271
tain that those who know the Mormons the most inti-
mately criticise them the least. Hence I make no at-
tempt to pass judgment upon any of the literature pro-
voked by the Mormon element of Arizona life. Joaquin
Miller always regretted, in his later years, the publica-
tion of his drama, The Danites, for he felt that it gave
to the masses of the people of the United States a general
idea of the Mormons that was false. Owen Wister,
hearing a picturesque yarn of Mormons " holding up "
and robbing a United States army paymaster, in the Gila
Valley, wrote a powerful and strong story entitled A
Pilgrim on the Gila. There are those who claim to this
day that the story is pure history, thinly disguised as to
names, though the Mormons naturally resent this with
emphasis. Anyhow, the present junior United States
Senator from Arizona, Marcus A. Smith, considered him-
self so personally aggrieved by this story that he made
it the basis of a libel suit he instituted in the Courts. I
think, however, the suit was quashed before it came to
trial.
The peculiar character of some of the early day preach-
ers who wandered into Arizona has formed the theme
for many a story, and James Cabell Brown's Calabasas
contains the sermon said to have been preached by a swin-
dling itinerant and impostor who came to that almost de-
serted camp in the early days.
That most popular of our-day novelists, Harold Bell
Wright, came into Arizona several years ago and im-
mediately fell under its spell. Here, in the wide spaces
and in the primitive life of the cowboy, he found ma-
terial for novels that grip the heart and stir the soul to
higher endeavor. In Tucson he wrote that sweet and
tender book of reminiscences, Their Yesterdays, and while
The Eyes of the World was written in California, on
272 Arizona, the Wonderland
the desert, it was in the deserts of Arizona that its incep-
tion, and much of its detail, was thought out. Out with
the cowboys, riding range and rodeo with them, taking
his place with the rest in the actual duties of herding,
roping, cutting out and branding, he came to know and
understand the cowboy as not one author in a million
has even tried to know him. The result is — and I speak
from a similar intimate and personal knowledge — his
When a Man's a Man is as true a picture of cowboy life,
surroundings, work, and influence as if it were mentally
and morally photographic as well as physically. Every
student of Arizona literature should read this book with
what I have said clearly fixed in mind.
Rex E. Beach saw in the Arizona mule drivers a great
theme for his peculiar kind of story-telling genius, so he
conceived and wrote " The Mule Driver and the Gar-
rulous Mule," which might even make a mule laugh, its
humorous foolishness so readily gets under the thickest
skin. It appeared in McClure's and contains the follow-
ing " gem of purest ray serene " : " Arizona may be
slow in the matter of standing collars and rag-time, but
she leads the world in profanity." That this used to be
the case I do not propose to argue. Anyhow, if there is
any objection to be taken to Mr. Beach's statement, let
Arizonans do it and fight it through to the bitter end.
The author may have some strong cards on that subject
hidden up his sleeve.
Of the wonderful natural features of Arizona more
has been written, even in late years, than any book can
merely recount. The Grand Canyon has provoked books
of description, novels and stories. The Petrified Forest,
Sunset Crater, Meteorite Mountain, the Lava Fields,
have all been profitable sources of inspiration, and Kirk
Munroe wrote an interesting novel on The Painted Des-
The Literature and Art of Arizona 273
ert. Unfortunately, he did not care to make his book
basically accurate as far as his descriptions were con-
cerned, and thus has materially helped give to the grow-
ing youth of the land unnecessarily false conceptions of
the Painted Desert, the Hopi Indians, the Cliff-Dwell-
ings, and the Grand Canyon, which his genius has woven
into a very readable story.
The reptilian life of Arizona — its rattlesnakes and
Gila monsters — have formed the theme of many a story,
none, however, more interesting, though devoid .of thrill-
ing characteristics, than Adeline Knapp's " Beast," which
appeared in McC lure's. It is the story of a tame Gila
monster, and is written with a keen appreciation of the
country and also of the creature itself. I have quoted
in another chapter somewhat from this article.
Most of the writers I have referred to above have been
outsiders who have been, at one time or another, visitors
to Arizona. But there are those resident in the State
whose literary reputation has reached far beyond its
borders. Miss Hall's work already has been character-
ized. Another excellent writer, whose work is found in
many magazines, is Etta Gifford Young, who has both
the gift of insight and of poetic expression. Will H.
Robinson is another Arizona writer who is making good.
He wrote an excellent story for children entitled The
Golden Palace of Neverland that brought him instant
fame. It is a worthy companion to Alice in Wonder-
land, and were it better known I am sure there would be
a great demand for it. He also writes many short
stories for the popular magazines, and a year or so ago a
rather striking novel of his, entitled The Man from Yes-
terday, was published by an eastern firm. The story
deals with the development of Phcenix and the Salt River
Valley, and is a strong, vigorous and virile presentation
274 Arizona, the Wonderland
of some of the problems the settlers had to contend with.
• Of course there is a charming love story that lightens
the more serious pages of the book.
Another of these home writers is Miss Rose Trumbull,
of Scottsdale, and here is one of her characteristic poems :
THE DESERT
" I hear the city's surge and roar
Where tides of nations meet,
And as I look with jaded eyes
Across the crowded street,
I dream of far off desert wastes
Where Solitude had birth,
And where, untamed of human hands,
There lies the virgin earth.
"'Tis there that, furrowed like the sea
The desert stretches wide;
There, shrivelled by unnumbered suns,
A thirsting land has died;
'Tis there upon the azure hills,
Above the dusky dunes,
The rubric of the sunset lies
In rose and silver runes.
" There sing the fleckered mocking birds —
The minstrels of the night ;
There timid quail brood o'er their nests
In undisturbed delight;
There dawn-winds sweep the somber plain,
And call the morning star,
But I have wandered many a day —
How far, my Heart, how far ! "
One of the most interesting episodes in Arizona
literature occurred when Frank Holme, a Chicago news-
paperman, cursed with the overwork and destructive
forces of our civilization, fled for refuge to the land of
sunshine, health and recuperation. He first went to
South Carolina, then came to Phoenix. In one of his
The Literature and Art of Arizona 275
festive moods he and his friends established The
Bandar Log Press. Their productions were unique.
The illustrations were cut with an ordinary penknife
out of poplar lumber, and the press work was so con-
sistently abominable as to fill collectors and bibliophiles
with glee. The result was a great demand for every-
thing they issued. In due time several others joined
Holme, all in a more or less impecunious condition, and
Kirk La Shelle urged that the press be incorporated, in
order that help might be given without its wearing the
appearance of charity. One hundred and two shares
were sold, each one gladly taken by one of the leading
literary lights of the country, among whom may be
found such names as that of Mark Twain, George Ade,
Elbert Hubbard, Dunne (Dooley), Lyman J. Gage, J. T.
McCutcheon, Richard Harding Davis, Booth Tarkington,
etc.
The original plan of the press was to issue four books
a year, but this was never carried out. One of the vol-
umes was by Will H. Robinson, — referred to above —
entitled Her Navaho Lover. Special black-faced type
was used, and bold decorations adapted from the strik-
ing designs of Navaho blankets form the title-page. The
illustrations were cut from wood blocks with a jackknife.
Unfortunately, death called Mr. Holme and cut short
his hilarious plans and the Bandar Log's activities came
to an end. It was an unforgetable event in Arizona lit-
erary history, and one that will ever be recalled with
interest and pleasure.
While no one is more assured of the inadequacy and
incompetency of this chapter to do more than give
one a taste of the marvellous variety and charm of Ari-
zona literature, I think I have given enough to whet my
readers' appetites to know more. My friend, Dr. J. A.
276 Arizona, the Wonderland
Munk, of Los Angeles, for years has been accumulating
all he can find on Arizona, and after amassing over seven
thousand volumes, etc., Hector Alliot, Curator of the
Southwest Museum of the same city — in whose care
the books have been placed — has prepared a full cata-
logue. It is a remarkable bibliography, and far more
than anything that can be said, demonstrates the propo-
sition with which I started out in this chapter.
All that was said in the beginning of this chapter upon
the influence exercised by Arizona's wonders upon the
writer apply equally well to the artist with brush and
pencil. Here is the land of marvellous forms in moun-
tain, canyon, peak, wall and strata, and as for color! it
is the palette board of the world. Thomas Moran came
and saw its Grand Canyon and painted pictures that oc-
cupy honored positions in the Capitol building in Wash-
ington. Lundgren, Gardner Symons, Judson, Aiken,
Sauerwin, Groll, Dow, Eitel, and a host of others, have
succumbed to its charms. Harry Cassie Best, who, years
before, had deemed the sunset glows on Mount Shasta
incomparable, saw them on the San Francisco Mountains
and other peaks of Arizona and surpassed himself in his
colorful canvases. The color plate opposite this page
is of one of his pictures. His brother, Arthur, dean of
the Best Art School of San Francisco, has felt the same
color allurement, both on plain, desert, mountain, canyon
and Indian camp, and the spirited picture opposite page
148 is from his brush, showing the Apaches in their dar-
ing rides over the rocky slopes of the Arizona mountains.
J. Bond Francisco, the musician-artist of Los Angeles,
whose canvases are prized in European galleries as well
as in those of our own land, confesses to thrills of de-
light as he finds he can portray, with more or less fidelity
and power, the glorious lights and shades, colors and
San Francisco Peaks at Sunset, from near Flagstaff,
Arizona.
From o Painting especially made for this work by
Harry Cassie Best.
The Literature and Art of Arizona 277
tones that flood mountains, foothills and desert at cer-
tain times. Evelyn Almond Withrow meets the Indians,
Hopis, Navahos, and others, and at once falls a victim,
not to their warlike powers, but to their captivating
qualities to the artistic eye, and the picture of the Hopi
priest at his sunrise devotions on his Kiva overlooking
the Painted Desert is a fine sample of the faithful power
of her work. Mrs. J. W. Estill, of Tucson, a lover of
flowers, came in contact with the desert flora of Arizona.
The vivid and brilliant cactuses, with their wide gamut
of colors and shades, so entranced her that she began to
paint them. Her collection now is one of the most com-
plete and remarkable in the country, and by her kind
favor I am permitted to reproduce her painting of one
of these brilliant though thorny and unfriendly specimens
of desert growth.
These are but a few of the many illustrations that
might be given of the attractive and beautiful pictures
produced under Arizona's inspiration. Suffice it to say
that I firmly believe that when artists realize that the
conditions of life in Arizona today are conducive to the
highest comfort, they will come into its borders in larger
numbers to yield to its inspiring power ; and, in addition,
two or three more decades will see its native sons and
daughters developing into masterly artists because of
their loving desire to show forth the artistic glories,
wonders and beauties of their native State.
CHAPTER XX
THE COWBOY EPOCH
No story of Arizona would be complete that omitted
some details of the time when the cowboy was an im-
portant factor in the life of the country. He was a pic-
turesque character, — far more picturesque in reality than
in the short stories and movies where a fake presentment
of him is given to an ill-observing and ignorant public.
He was picturesque in clothing, in language, in manner,
in life, and we owe him a debt of gratitude for many
things, the least of which is the interest he has aroused
in the minds of those who know him not at all.
To most people there is no difference between an
Arizona cowboy and one from Texas, California, Ne-
vada, or Montana. Yet there are many and " queer "
differences, that, however, are very significant to those
who understand them. The original cattle countries were
Texas and California. From there, in Spanish days,
there were reasonably ready shipments. Arizona, New
Mexico, Nevada and the country further north were
inside countries, and besides, they were cursed by war-
like and hostile Indians who made cattle-keeping a dan-
gerous and generally unprofitable occupation. So the
marked differences between cowboys are found in the
standards of Texans and Calif ornians. The California
cowboy uses a heavy saddle — averaging forty pounds
in weight. He has several kinds of trees — the Stock-
ton, Sacramento, Visalia, etc., this being the name given
278
The Cowboy Epoch 279
to the wooden base upon which the leather is " built."
The saddle is high, with broad tree, and stirrups so hung
that one stands up, practically speaking. Tapaderos —
flaps at bottom of the square wooden stirrups — reach
nearly to the ground. A single cinch is used, the leather
end of which is fastened to the cinch-ring in a slip-
knot. The head-stall is often elaborately decorated
with silver, and the bit is a heavy " spade," " wheel," or
" ring," no one of which an eastern horseman would
ever dream of putting into his horse's mouth. His
" lariat " — Spanish la riata — is made of braided rawhide
or calfskin worked in the fingers until it is soft, smooth
and pliable as moleskin, and the noose is made so that
it slips with lightning-like rapidity, and can be tightened
or loosened with equal facility.
On the contrary, the Texan outfit has a long, low-
cantled, broad-horned saddle, loosely strapped to his pony
with a double cinch, with buckles on the " latigo " straps.
His bit is light, and generously reinforced with a " hack-
amore," and this rope is either of " hemp " or Mexican
grass. Tapaderos are never worn, and the stirrups are
pulled up so that the Texan rides Apache Indian fashion,
with knees bent.
The Arizonan, however, is influenced somewhat by
both. He may have a Visalia-treed California saddle,
and yet have some Texan characteristics. His rope is
often a " lass," — corruption of lasso — and he is a
" cow-puncher," rather than a cowboy, and one may ride
Texas fashion and another Californian, for this being the
meeting-ground, both styles prevail and are acceptable.
It will be apparent to every reader that the cowboys'
occupation depended upon the open range. Cattle,
horses, were turned loose to graze on an unfenced area
that reached from the Equator to the Arctic circle, and
280 Arizona, the Wonderland
from the Pacific Ocean to the Missouri River. Cattle
were at liberty to roam wherever they willed. There
were few fenced areas, and those were near to towns or
smaller settlements where the pioneers made their homes,
and where the later cities came into being. Every animal
must be marked so that it could be distinguished at a
distance, or many weary hours of hard riding would be
wasted in running after cattle to find out that they be-
longed to some one else. Hence the system of branding,
slitting the ears, cutting the dewlap, etc. As a rule
where cattle found fair feed and water they did not
wander far from their native range, but this might cover
an area of two or three hundred square miles, or less.
In the early days every cattleman was a law unto him-
self, when the law of the range winked at the stealing of
all the calves a man could get his branding-irons on, and
the round-up was unknown. There was much duplica-
tion of work, and much dissatisfaction which often mani-
fested itself in deadly feuds between rival camps. Those
days have been displaced by the new era of cooperation.
The cattlemen now form stock associations, which hold
regular meetings for the discussion of all affairs pertain-
ing to their business. This association sets the time for
the spring and fall round-ups, elects the man who shall
be the boss, hires the cook, and provides all the necessary
supplies. The boss' word is law, and he allots every
puncher the work he shall do, sees that he does it, and is
supposed to watch out for the interests of all cattlemen
alike, in accordance with the cattle laws of the State and
of the association.
It was at one of these round-ups that I had my first
introduction to the western cowboy who, ever since,
has had a high place in my regard. Charles B. Clark,
Jr., has written a song which cowboys often sing which
^ The Cowboy Epoch 281
pretty fairly portrays the round-up, its work, spirit, and
play:
" Come, strap up your chaps and your big spurs, too,
And wrangle your horses as though you're through,
Better catch up a dozen for one won't do,
For we're starting today for the round-up.
Wah ! the round-up !
There'll be Shorty and Frenchy and Bacon Rind Joe,
And a rough-ridin' outfit from Seven XO,
There'll be steaks that is juicy and beans that is rich,
There'll be steers that is ugly and horses that pitch,
There'll be yelling and hootin' and maybe some shootin'!
And plenty of fun at the round-up.
"We must crawl from our traps at the breakin' of morn,
And we spend the whole day between cattle and horn.
Over hills and up gulches with never a rest,
Till the day flickers out on the hills of the West,
There is lopin" and ropin' and no time for mopin';
It's work for good men on the round-up.
"There is noise on the mountains and dust on the plains,
And the cattle string out of the dry, sandy drains,
While the far-scattered punchers are urgin* them in,
With words that smell strong of original sin,
With a racin' and chasin' and often 'bout facin',
And that is the edge of the round-up.
" A cavortin' and snortin' of horses gone wrong,
With a hailstorm of cuss words, a sprinkle of song,
And a bawlin' of calves that don't want to but must
And a smell of burnt hair and a swirlin' of dust,
And a rattle of battle 'mongst long-horned cattle,
And that is the heart of the round-up.
Wow! the round-upj
" And when it is over the whole blamed force
Draws liquified joy from its nearest source,
Then there's happiness, fights and, at last, remorse;
That's mostly the end of a round-up."
The time and place of the rodeo decided upon, all hands
282 Arizona, the Wonderland
wend their way thither, preceded, however, by the grub-
wagon, which, of course, must be on hand to provide for
the needs of the men. Each man brings his own
" string " of cow-ponies for his individual use, as one
day's riding is enough to wear out any but the toughest
of animals. Every horse must have several days to
recuperate ere he can be ridden again. These " strings "
are put together into one large herd, which, in Western
parlance, is called the " cavviyard," which is from the
Spanish cdballada, the horse herd. The man who has
charge of this herd is called the horse " wrangler."
One by one, or in small groups, the cowboys assemble.
It is a regular " gathering of the clans." " Hello,
Buck!" "Hello, Frank!" "Hello, Pieface!" "Well,
you old son of a gun, blam-jam you, I'm glad to see
you! " and the like, are salutations that one may hear.
Cookie is at work with his pots, pans, and kettles over
his campfire, singing a lugubrious song about " his girl
going away with Roarin' Sam, leavin' him behind like an
innocent lamb. She's been gone, by gosh, two weeks and
a day, and he's left behind singin' this melancholy lay,"
or something that sounds much like it. Again his voice
will rise in historic vein and we learn in forty verses or
more the story of Sam Bass, the noted desperado who
was born in " Indianner." In the meantime the bread in
the dutch-oven is " humpin' itself," the beans are " siz-
zling," the potatoes are near to "bilin' themselves to
pieces," the beef is nearly roasted to a turn.
As each contingent arrives, the extra ponies are turned
over to the wrangler, saddles are taken off, packs re-
moved, the cowboys get busy with a bar of soap and the
tin wash-basin, and before they are " slicked up " Cookie's
call rings out: "Grub pile, grub pile. Take it
awa-a-a-y ! " Like an avalanche, the boys fall upon the
The Cowboy Epoch 283
grub, which is dished up with little ceremony in tin plates.
There is no table, and no pretense of one. Each puncher
sits where he likes, takes up as much room as he wants,
and puts his plate on his knees or the ground. He keeps
his hat on, as at any other place it would be liable to be
stepped on, or made the receptacle for surplus beans or
coffee. Rude humor, rough jests, often punctuate the
progress of the meal. There are but two courses, the
grub itself; meat, generally beef, frifoles — beans — po-
tatoes, and the dessert, which is a harmless mixture of rice
and raisins commonly designated as " moonshine."
Sometimes the first evening, if the rodeo opens near
a settlement where there are girls and a schoolhouse, is
given over to a dance. It puts the punchers in a good
humor, though the first day's work suffers from the mild
dissipation of late hours and too much fun. The morn-
ing, however, sees them arise as the alarm clock or
Cookie's first call awakens them, and each one steals out
into the early dawn, saddles his one pony kept up over
night for this purpose, and ride out to hunt for the horse-
herd. When these are gathered up and brought in break-
fast is taken without ceremony, after which the horses
needed for the day's work are " roped," brought in and
saddled. Some time on this first day a few of the horses
which may have been allowed to run wild on the range
are full of life and fire, and fun is anticipated during
the " unroostering " process. Some like to run if they
are strong enough to overcome the pull on the bit, others
hang their heads and begin a series of jumps, side-
steps, whirls, and prances that would dazzle the eyes of a
couple of modern dancers. Now and again a sudden
stroke of the " quirt " reminds an apparently sober, gentle
horse, that is moving along as demurely as a schoolgirl,
that there is a streak of innate deviltry within his system
284 Arizona, the Wonderland
that desires to exhibit itself, and without any prelim-
inaries he goes up into the air like a rubber ball, his four
feet brought together, his back arched like that of a
spitting cat, and, with his head between his knees comes
down with a jolt that would force the spine of any
ordinary man clear through to the topmost crust of his
skull. Everybody howls and yells when anything like
this occurs, and does all he reasonably and legitimately
can to increase the fun — which simply means, to an on-
looker, exciting the horse, disconcerting the rider, and
seeking to bring about a dire disaster. But the rider gen-
erally takes it all as a matter of course, sits his horse like
a bronze statue, as straight and graceful as can be, at the
same time using his quirt or raking the bucking animal
fore and aft with his heavy Mexican spurs.
Thus the punchers ride out to the appointed rendezvous.
Here the boss meets them and " mixes the medicine."
The plan for the day's work is unfolded, and each rider,
or, generally, couple of riders, is given a route, each route
converging in the allotted meeting-place where the cattle
will be " rounded up," calves branded, and everything
else done that is required. Look at the " boys " as they
sit their ponies, awaiting orders. They look like a band
of " rangers " or " scouts," in their chaps, high-topped
boots, spurs, broad-brimmed sombreros, and with red,
blue, green, or yellow bandanas or silk handkerchiefs
around their necks. Their names are as picturesque as
their appearance. Here is an actual roster: Frenchy
Franklin, Boss; "One-Eyed" Pete, "Punch-bellied"
Jake, " Razor- faced " Bill, " Tex " Armstrong, " Bony "
Waters, " Bully " Johnson, " Possum " Rawlings, " Two-
bits " Bates, "Shamrock" McGinnis, "Goat" Smith,
" Kid," " Slush," and " Nigger " Jim. Orders received,
off they go, each in the direction indicated, all, however,
The Cowboy Epoch 285
to so ride that they will arrive at the given rendezvous
at the appointed hour. Sometimes the allotment is an
easy one, sometimes hard, sometimes dangerous, but
whatever it is each pair of punchers " goes to it " with a
will. For all must work together, forming a regular
cordon through which none of the animals wanted must
be allowed to escape. I have ridden at the extreme end
of the fan, making a circle in the day of sixty to
seventy miles, sometimes chasing refractory cows at a
terrific speed, up hill and down, reckless alike of stumps,
sage-brush, rabbit-holes, rocks or boulders. If one who
sees a heavy cow or bull in a corral or stable thinks that
he is looking upon a clumsy creature that cannot run, he
should have a few days out on an Arizona cattle-range
and he will soon change his mind. There is no stopping
a well-trained cow-pony when he once gets started after
running stock, and he knows a tenderfoot is upon his
back. He goes ahead and attends strictly to his business,
heading off the creatures and forcing them in the direc-
tion required. As a rule the tenderfoot is willing to
allow the pony to take his own way, for he finds it all he
can do to keep his seat in the exciting, dashing, bumping,
jumping, whirling that he undergoes. But my, how stim-
ulating it is! How it starts the blood to flowing, the
lungs to fullest action, the liver to activity, the stomach
to doing its work. There is no exercise so thoroughly
" all-over-ish " as this kind of horse-riding. Every part
of one's physical being, inside and out, is brought into full
play, and he is on his sure road to actual death who can
take such exercise for a few days and not feel that he
is becoming a new man as its natural outcome.
Once started there is no time to stop for lunch, rest, or
drink. Through the fierce heat of the day, the rain, the
storm, the fog — whatever the weather may be, the ride
286 Arizona, the Wonderland
persists, until in the early or late afternoon the meeting
of all of the scattered cowboys takes place. Sometimes
a rider will come upon one or a small band of wild cows
that have been branded, but are now wilder than ever.
If they have calves with them it is often a difficult matter
to ride them down, and sometimes, when they are cor-
nered, they are dangerous. Here is a little of the extra
spice of life that adds zest to the day's work. As the
rendezvous is reached each couple brings in ten, twenty,
twenty-five, more or less, according to his " luck," of
cattle and unbranded calves. A fire is soon built, and
every cattle-owner's branding irons are placed therein to
get hot. The boss selects a skilful " roper " to ride in
among the herd to " rope out " the calves. Another
puncher is appointed to keep tab on the calves branded,
while five or six others are appointed to " bulldog "
the poor little creatures, as, bawling, struggling, jump-
ing, they are " snaked " out into the open. Here five
or six punchers " bulldog " the calf and get it down,
while another one brings the red-hot iron and applies
it.
But, the tenderfoot asks, how do the cowboys know
what brand to put upon the calf? This question is ex-
plained— when one understands the fact — by the
peculiar shouts of the cowboy who drags out the calf.
He generally finds it with its mother. As soon as his
rope falls upon the little creature he calls out " Bar X,"
"Diamond Arrow," "Bar Lo," "D K," "Turkey
Track," or the well-known name by which every brand
generally found on the range is designated. The boss
stands by the fire, sees that the proper brand is given and
no sooner does the smoke of the burning hair and flesh
ascend to the heavens than it is known that another can-
didate for initiation into the honorable ranks of Cowdom
The Cowboy Epoch 287
has been duly received. During this time the balance of
the cowboys are " riding herd " — that is, circling around
the herd, keeping the animals well pressed together.
Sometimes the herd tries to stampede or a cow or calf
breaks loose, giving the rider nearest to it a swift chase
to run it back.
The scene is one that is exciting beyond measure to one
who sees it not only for the first time, but at any time.
The lowing cows, the bawling calves, smoking irons, odor
of burning hair, running of horses, whirling of riatas,
yelling and shouting of cowboys, ascending dust, beating
of racing horses' hoofs, all create an apparent pande-
monium that gives it a peculiar fascination.
When the branding is over, another equally important
process begins. This is the " cutting " of the herd.
Some of the cattle and the calves are to be left on the
range. These are " cut out " and turned loose as soon as
possible. Others have wandered from their own ranges
and are to be driven back. These are generally kept
with the animals that are to be shipped, or those that are
to be pastured in the mountains for the summer season,
until the whole rodeo is completed, and then they are dis-
posed of with all others belonging to the same class. In
the " cutting out " there is often considerable excitement.
Two or three punchers ride into the herd, spot the animal
that is to be cut out, work her gently toward the outer
edge of the herd, then, by a sudden dash of their ponies,
scare her out. This requires manoeuvring, quick decision,
rapid action and skilful horsemanship. Now and then a
cow refuses to leave the herd. A rope around her neck,
twisted around the horn of the saddle of a cowboy that
steadily moves away from the herd, soon persuades her
that her place is outside, though this often leads to others
attempting to follow her, for in cow society, as human
288 Arizona, the Wonderland
society, ties are formed which the powers that be ruth-
lessly refuse to recognize.
This done, the fire is trampled out and the ashes scat-
tered, the herd rounded up and driven to camp, where the
cattle are turned over to the tender mercies of the " night
herders." Then, without parley, ceremony, instruc-
tions or suggestions, every cowboy races to the chuck-
wagon, throws himself from his horse, flings his lines
over the horse's head upon the ground, and makes a dive
for the "tools." The original and first cafeteria was a
round-up grub-wagon. The door to the chuck-box is
put down and fastened as a table. On it are tin-plates,
knives, forks, spoons, and tin cup. Every puncher grabs
his own, makes the round of the pots at the fire and helps
himself. Then, seating themselves on the ground, they
" go for it," for of all the appetite-provoking exercises
nothing in the world surpasses riding after cattle. And,
as I have said, it is seldom any preparation is made for a
noon meal for the active riders, so that when night comes
they are simply ravenous. The meal over, " plugs " are
taken out for a chew, " the makin's " are passed from
hand to hand, cigarettes rolled and lighted, and then,
stretched out upon their backs, or in any position comfort
suggests, the cowboys chat, joke, laugh, sing, tell stories
so long as they desire.
Once in a while into such fun Cookie will interject a
complaint that some low-down, ill-bred puncher has been
guilty of leaving his dirty plate on the chuck-table instead
of putting it into the "round-up'" pan. This is always a
signal for a bit of genuine rough-housing. Some one is
always found guilty, tried and condemned. The punish-
ment is generally that the culprit be "chapped." Ac-
cordingly, he is seized by the not too gentle hands of the
punchers, stretched across the water barrel face down-
The Cowboy Epoch 289
wards, and held there, while Cookie proceeds to admin-
ister with a pair of leather " chaps," the number of strokes
named upon the posterior anatomy of the victim.
This over, the punchers, one by one, are ready to un-
roll their blankets, some to creep into them at once,
others to sit and smoke a while longer, while perhaps
from a solitary singer will be heard the song :
"I thought one winter, just for fun —
After cow-punching was all done —
I'd rest my bronc' and rest my gun
And hunt me up a girl.
I'd corral her everything that goes;
I'd take her to all the shows ;
I'd cut out all her other beaus,
And she should be my pearl."
Then, perhaps, silence. Or, mayhap, from another
singer, as a kind of a refrain, or chorus to his song, one
may hear among the snores of the cowboys already
asleep :
" Says the boss to the cowboy :
'You never can tell;
Sometimes they're angels,
Sometimes they're — .' "
Of the speech of the cowboys one might write pages.
How often have I listened and wished I could faithfully
reproduce their picturesque language! It is full of
strange, exaggerated, peculiar illustrations, comparisons,
similes. Imagine a man being described as "a side-
winder, and a diamond-back, and a black rattlesnake all
rolled into one." A careless driver was thus pictured:
" Him drive hosses? Why, he don't know nothin' about
driving. He just ties four or six hosses hit or miss to
his waggin, and then herds 'em across the kentry." The
desert is said to be " hotter'n hell with the blower on,"
and the place where " you had to prime yourself to spit."
290 Arizona, the Wonderland
Who could express a dry spell better than : "It hadn't
rained since Noah," or " I'd forgot what water looked
like outside of a pail or a trough." Who that ever
curried a mean horse wouldn't understand a mean man
describing himself as "never been curried below the
knees." " Whar you makin' for ? " is a question that
some might not realize simply means " What is your ob-
jective point?" and only a resident in a cattle country,
as a rule, knows that " cow " means anything from a
suckling calf up to a venerable old bull. The " grub-
wagon " is the portable kitchen of the cowboys, for, of
course, they must be provided with regular meals, so that
as their day's work ends they do not have to ride back
to eat — the " grub " or " chuck " wagon has gone ahead,
settled where they are going to camp for the night, and
the meal is ready practically as soon as the cowboys are.
" Bedground " is the place where the cattle are held
for the night, and men ride " day herd " and " night
herd." A " dogie " is a yearling that has lost its mother
when very young and has had a hard time living through
the winter. When a herd starts to stampede the boys try
to swerve the leaders so that by and by the herd is running
in a circle. This is " milling." The cry " Roll out !
Roll out ! Chuck away ! " is the morning call for break-
fast. Again it is "Chuck pile! Chuck pile! Put it
away ! " But I find that each cook has his own call, and
that it makes very little real difference what it is, for
every cowboy soon knows and readily responds to it.
How terms come into existence is sometimes hard to
tell. Whims and notions often control us. But there
need be no difficulty in at least guessing what " unrooster-
ing " a horse means. When a cow-pony has been roam-
ing loose on the range for a whole winter he sometimes
comes back to civilization and to work feeling extra
The Cowboy Epoch 291
good, and then he must be " unroostered," in other words,
tamed down to the steady work he has been used to.
This is different from " breaking him." Only an un-
tamed horse is " broken." A horse may be ten or fifteen
years old and yet have a fit of coltishness after being
unused for a time, and then he must be " unroostered."
Does it need half an hour's explanation to account for
the expression " clawing leather," when one knows it re-
fers to the antics of a rider whose horse had begun to
" buck." Scores of people who use this term " buck "
do not know that it undoubtedly comes from the apparent
bunching of the deer's four- feet together as it bounds
down hill in its frantic efforts to escape, when being fol-
lowed or shot at.
" Mix the medicine " is a phrase that has an Indian
origin. Medicine to the Indian is any procedure that
procures the results he desires, whether in disease, war,
love, hunting, fishing, or farming. The " boss " desires
to secure all the stock and unbranded calves on the range.
He knows that certain men ride better in some places,
and under certain conditions than others ; some are more
careful and particular in dangerous, or difficult places;
others will hunt where cows are likely to hide, while still
others do not mind long rides so that they may be in the
open and free from hard runs through forest trees, or up
and down mountain slopes. The " boss," therefore, takes
these things, the nature of the country, the habits of the
cattle he is after, etc., into consideration and " mixes the
medicine," to secure results.
When calves are to be branded, they are " roped " and
then " cut " from the herd, out into an open space, where
the branding-irons are in the fire being kept ready for
branding. Several cow-punchers are ready to seize the
calves and " bull-dog " them for branding. This term
292 Arizona, the Wonderland
implies that they are grabbed with bull-dog hold, by the
ear, the leg, the tail, anywhere, thrown down, and held
down while the brander " claps on the iron," sears the hair
and the outer skin and thus completes the process of
branding.
CHAPTER XXI
OLD TUCSON NEW
PAGEANTS are the order of the day. Look at those
that come before my mind and eye as I hear the name
Tucson. Indians, of the peaceful, quiet kind, in their
stick-cactus and mud huts, busy making pottery, basketry,
out farming, dressing skins, gathering grass seeds,
hunting, dancing. Now solemnly marching into the
scene come black-gowned Jesuit priests, led by Eusebius
Kino, mathematician, scholar, professor and now zealous
missionary. Lifting the symbol of his religion high in
the air he preaches with fervor and conviction the religion
of cross and church that possesses his heart. His very
impetuosity wins the regard of the simple listeners though
they but vaguely understand what he says to them. See
them as he baptizes them and their children, uttering
words in sonorous tones and making movements with his
fingers dipped in water that the recipients of his ministra-
tions regard as deepest mysteries. Watch them as, under
the padres' direction, they make adobe bricks, lay the
foundations, and build the first adobe churches seen in
Arizona. Listen to them, when the building is com-
pleted, learning to sing, to recite the creed, make the
responses. Then thrill as you see the sudden onslaught
of fierce Apaches, the hated foes of the pastoral Pimas
and Papagoes. The bow-strings twang, the arrows fly,
the obsidian- and flint-tipped lance speeds on its swift
errand of murder, and the torch fires the house, the church
293
294 Arizona, the Wonderland
and the fields of waving grain. Devastation, destruction,
desolation, reign for a while. Then with new courage
homes and churches are rebuilt, fields resown, hope
and happiness renewed. Spaniards and Mexicans come,
ranches are started where cattle and sheep are raised and
mines are opened and Indians are taught to work in them ;
horses and sheep are introduced and the Pimas learn to
ride and to weave.
Now and again lurid flames and midnight attacks of
Apaches make a horrid contrast to the general quiet and
pastoral content of the lives of Spaniards and Indians.
So forts are built. Tubac comes into existence, and
Captain Juan Bautista de Anza appears on the scene.
He goes to look for a road to connect the Missions of
Sonora with those of California. Then he is told to go
gather up the colonists required to start a new city by
the Golden Gate, just discovered by Portola's soldiers.
We see them — men, women and children — come up to
Tubac from Sonora. Their horses, mules, burros, cattle
and sheep are gathered together also, for a paternal gov-
ernment does not intend they shall go into the new land
with necessities unprovided. See the long caravan as it
leaves the little settlement and presidio on the banks of
the Santa Cruz, slowly wending its way towards Tucson.
Listen to the morning and evening exhortations of Padre
Pedro Font, the Franciscan friar who gave us the outlines
from which we can paint in vivid colors this part of
our pageant. See the expedition as it camps at night,
awakens and quickens into life each morning. It reaches,
it stops a while, it passes Tucson, and goes on to make
history for San Francisco — one of the great plays staged
upon the boards at Tucson for the immediate entertain-
ment of but a few, and now resuscitated for our delecta-
tion.
Old — Tucson — New 295
Now Padre Francisco Garces comes to San Xavier del
Bac, and we see him go out, once, twice, thrice, four, five
times on his Entradas to western and northern Arizona
and into California. We see him as he comes back, with
stories of the many and strange tribes he has seen, even
the far-away Hopi of the north and the Havasupai in
their deep and beautiful Cataract Canyon home. Then
the news comes to us that discontented and vengeful
Yumas have slain him and his companion padres, as well
as Governor Rivera, yonder at the new and unfortunate
Missions on the Colorado River — and he fades from our
sight.
Years lapse; the padres of the Mission churches are re-
called because the order of secularization has gone into
effect, and the Missions begin to decay. Then there
comes an entirely new element into the scene. The
gringo soldier appears, American army-posts are estab-
lished. The prospector for gold, the miner, the trader,
the long ox- and mule-teams, the prairie-schooners, the
commissary wagons begin to appear. A new town
springs into being. The Tucson of Spain, Mexico, Cali-
fornia and Texas commingles to make the leading fron-
tier town of the lower Southwest. Gamblers come in,
with saloon-keepers, and the pathetic women of their
feather. The epoch of the " Wild and Woolly West "
begins, and a man is served up for breakfast every morn-
ing. Then there is the flutter of the Civil War; more
uprisings and bloody butcheries of the Apaches, and the
appearance of General Crook. Companies of soldiers
come to Fort Lowell, and march through the streets of
Tucson, who look as if they mean business; their com-
manders do, and they soon learn that that is what they are
there for. The newspaper has already come. A print-
ing office has been in operation in Tubac for years.
296 Arizona, the Wonderland
There is one in Tucson. It tells the news — in simple
and primitive fashion, yet it brings before us the men of
the day seated in the saloons and gambling houses reading
their papers as men have done ever since.
Now the scenes change with greater rapidity. The
Apaches are tamed; the railroad comes in; more citizens
with their wives and children come; the city grows; the
residences increase; water works, sewerage, schools,
churches, cathedral, university, stores and factories,
street-cars come into existence. Saloons and gambling
dens fade away — banks loom up more vividly and pros-
perity reigns supreme. The present appears before us —
the pageant of the past fades and we are living in the
active now, in a modern city of from twenty to twenty-
five thousand population.
Hence it is no fiction or exaggeration to say that Old
Madrid is not more fascinating, romantic and dream-
inspiring than Old Tucson. Yet no transcontinental
traveler alighting from the Southern Pacific trains would
think it, as he sees the modern hotels, automobiles, and
other evidences of the new Tucson. Nevertheless it is
within the memory of those who do not yet regard them-
selves as old men that Tucson was the wildest, most un-
combed, untamed, and reckless city on the frontier.
Bourke tells in his inimitable way the story of early
day Tucson that fully confirms my statements, where a
drunken Texan, Waco Bill, cries out for Dufneld, a well-
known dead shot of Tucson. In the scrimmage that
ensued Waco Bill received a bullet in the groin and Duf-
field stood over him with a Chesterfieldian bow and wave
of the hand, exclaiming : " My name's Duffield, sir, and
them's mee visitin' cyard ! " The introduction seemed
most effective, and in due time Waco Bill wafted out of
sight. There was a man for breakfast — if not every
Old — Tucson — New 297
morning, at least often enough to satisfy the most exact-
ing. Strange to say, there were no hotels. The floating
population either actually made their residence in the
gambling halls or saloons, eating wherever they chose, or
had a chance, or they slept in their blankets in some hos-
pitable corral, rolling the bed-clothes up during the day
and storing them with the accommodating stable man.
The saloons and gambling houses of the place were
many and never closed, day or night, weekday or Sunday,
for birth or funeral. There were the " Quartz Rock,"
the " Hanging Wall," the " Golden West," " Congress
Hall," and " Fashion," and places of lesser note and fame,
and many are the stories that might be told of drinking
bouts and gambling games that to this day have not lost
the thrill of their recital. All nationalities were repre-
sented, and practically all conditions of life, exactly as
was found in San Francisco in its " days of old and days
of gold." As a rule, the best of order prevailed, though
once in a while a sheep-herder, prospector, cowboy or
miner would create a little excitement, when made too
exuberant by an extra dose of " sheep-herder's delight."
Occasionally the teatro saw the presence of a traveling
company of barn-stormers who had been allured by the
prospect of reaping a rich harvest from the generous
pioneers, and among the Mexicans the maromas, or acro-
bats and tight-rope walkers were as popular as they were
accomplished.
Often there were cock-fights, which were exciting and
bloody, as famous roosters were brought up from the
South and pitted against each other, but the bull-fight,
with all its horrors, was unknown. The great excite-
ment and never-foiling recreation was the baile — the
Spanish or Mexican " ball," and to this all nationalities
crowded. What the ball-room lost in equipment and
298 Arizona, the Wonderland
splendor it made up in the enthusiasm of its company.
The ladies were there — young and old, fat and thin,
blonde and brunette, serious and smiling, — and they at-
tracted the cavaliers, who were an equally varied assort-
ment; there was a good-enough dancing floor and music
— so what more did one want?
The population was cosmopolitan beyond compare.
Every nationality was represented, and many hybrids,
some indigeneous and others imported, for in those days
peculiar alliances were far from uncommon, and China-
men and Indian women, negro females and German men,
and every conceivable combination of sex-relationship
seemed to turn up at some time or another in Fate's
Wheel.
Everybody smoked, either cigars, cigarettes, or pipes,
and the weed varied from the finest Havana leaf to the
vilest skunk-cabbage used as a substitute by some im-
pecunious Mexican or besotted Indian. Everybody
drank and the liqueurs and mixtures ranged from genuine
tarantula juice, coffin varnish, or liquid lightning, to
brands of rarest liquors or choicest vintages. Everybody
gambled, either in the flaming gambling dens or in the
quieter rooms of private residences set apart for this pur-
pose. When I use the word everybody in these connec-
tions, it does not imply there were no exceptions. There
were a few — just enough to prove the rule. This was
in the 'fifties, 'sixties, and 'seventies.
The very first building used as a hotel in Tucson is still
standing. It is a quaint old building, two stories high, of
adobe, with flat roof, and a large inner court or patio.
When built, in 1859, it was but one story high, and was
known as the Phillips House, from its builder. It had a
wall up to and connecting with the stockade of Fort
Lowell, where the soldiers were stationed to protect the
Old — Tucson — New 299
citizens and settlers from the raids of the Apaches. The
southwest corner stands on ground that was embraced by
an older wall which surrounded Tucson when it was a
walled city. Many notables have made this their head-
quarters when in Tucson, such as Governor Fremont,
General Miles, Buffalo Bill, etc. In the course of time it
was enlarged, and another story built on. Then its name
was changed to the " Cosmopolitan," later to the " Santa
Cruz," and finally to the Orndorff.
It is still used as a hotel and is under the management
of F. J. Wharton, the editor of the Tucson Signal, a
weekly paper devoted to reform movements and the gen-
eral welfare of the city.
To go back for a little while to Tucson's earlier history.
It was on the loth of March, 1856, that the Gadsden Pur-
chase was made effective, and all the Mexican authorities
and troops evacuated the place.
Prior to that time it had been a somewhat sleepy Mex-
ican pueblo, occasionally stirred by some great event, or
a raid by the Apaches. The place doubtless began as the
home of Indians from whom we get its name — not from
the Spaniards, as so many people imagine. Dr. Merrill
B. Freeman — than whom none has studied the subject
more thoroughly — affirms that the presidio was estab-
lished by the Mexican Government in 1776, with about
fifty soldiers brought up from Tubac, for the purpose of
affording protection to the near-by mission of San Xavier
del Bac.
The name Tucson comes from the Papago word
Styook Zone, the name of a small pueblo or Indian village
located on the foot of the hill known as Sentinel Peak,
just across the Santa Cruz River, and where the students
of the University of Arizona now have their big sym-
bol A. Styook signifies " black," and refers to the vol-
300 Arizona, the Wonderland
canic rock of which the hill is composed, and Zone is the
" foot of." Hence it is assumed that it was the name
of the village and under the modifying tongue of the
Spaniards became Tucson, they having no equivalent for
our English " z," which the Papagoes seem to have been
able to pronounce.
In the chapter on Nogales and Santa Cruz County will
be found full reference to the coming of the Spanish
padres into this region. Fray Eusebius Kino, the mission-
ary Jesuit, was the most noted of them all, and to him we
owe the founding of the Mission of San Xavier del Bac,
nine miles south of Tucson, in 1700. He had also
founded Missions at several places further south in the
Santa Cruz Valley, notably at Tumacacori, Guevavi and
Calabasas. The small churches erected at these places
were all partially destroyed by an uprising of the Pimas,
but missionary work was again resumed in due time.
In 1702 Kino made his last missionary trip to the Gila
and Colorado River country. This was, possibly, the
last time he crossed the Arizona line. In 1711 he passed
away and for twenty years the work he had so enthusi-
astically started seemed to lag.
In 1731 a small band of Jesuits came into Arizona and
Fray Felipe Segesser took charge of San Xavier, and
Juan Bautista Grashoffer of San Miguel at Guevavi.
Then in 1750 occurred the second revolt of the Pimas in
which priests and colonists were killed. San Xavier and
San Miguel Guevavi were plundered and abandoned but
the two Jesuit priests escaped. Two years later peace
was made and the presidio of Tubac established. In 1754
the Missions were reoccupied.
Tucson was a rancheria and a visita of San Xavier del
Bac at this time, and a few Spanish settlers seem to have
lived here, but in 1763 it was abandoned by all except a
Old — Tucson — New 301
few sick and infirm Indians. In 1767 came the order
that expelled the Jesuits from the domains of the king of
Spain and Fray Alonzo Espinosa was the Jesuit father
affected by this order at San Xavier, while Rafael Diaz
was at Guevavi. The Missions of lower Sonora were sec-
ularized and put in charge of regular parish priests, but
those of Pimeria Alta and Baja were offered to the Fran-
ciscans, and 1768 marks the coming of the priests of this
order into the region. Fray Francisco Garces was placed
in charge of San Xavier del Bac with the visit a of San
Jose de Tucson. Garces was a true missionary apostle
filled with the same kind of zeal as Kino and Serra, who
was soon to found the California missions. But those
of Arizona were found in bad condition. They had been
plundered by Apaches and the Indians connected with
them had been released from all control to their demoral-
ization. Don Jose de Galvez, the special agent of the
king of Spain to see that the Jesuits were removed and
their Missions placed in other hands, found his hands full
with a vast region to care for, so Arizona was neglected.
In spite of this, however, Fray Garces determined to start
out on missionary visits to the pagan Indians within his
reach. In August, 1768, he set forth from San Xavier,
accompanied only by one Indian and four guides sent to
meet and protect him, and visited the Papagoes and the
tribes on the Gila River. On his return he suffered from
an attack of apoplexy and Fray Gil from Guevavi came
to his assistance. It was well for Gil that he did so, as
during his absence the Apaches attacked Guevavi, sacked
and destroyed the Mission and killed all the soldiers save
two, whom they carried away with the avowed intention
of torturing them to death.
In 1770 Garces started off again and visited the Indians
as far west as the Gila, and was so encouraged with the
302 Arizona, the Wonderland
reception accorded him that he strongly urged the estab-
lishment of new missions there. Though the recommend-
ation was forwarded to Spain with emphatic endorsement
nothing further came of it.
During the period of waiting, however, for a decision
Garces was sent out by his superiors on another recon-
naissance. He visited the Yumas, of whom, among other
things, he says :
" Only one awkward thing happened to me among them. In all
places, and not only once, they offered me women, etc. ; but I, fixing
my eyes on the crucifix which I wore on my breast, and raising it up
towards heaven, gave them to understand that in that particular I
did not live as they did. On this account, they showed me much
affection, and obtained a higher idea about a matter which to them
appeared strange."
Fray Gil about this time was appointed padre-presidente
of the Missions of Pimeria Alta and yet was required to
found a Mission for the Seris. He bravely went and
took up his abode with this warlike people on the island of
Tiburon, in the Gulf of California, and after three
months of hard and fruitless labor, met martyrdom on
the 7th of March, 1773, at their hands.
In 1772 Fray Antonio Reyes, then a missionary of
Sonora visiting in the City of Mexico, and later a bishop,
made a report on the Missions of Pimeria Alta, from
which we learn that the church of San Xavier del Bac was
situated in a fertile plain, was sufficiently spacious, and
the sacristy well supplied with altar vessels and orna-
ments, but in poor condition. About one hundred and
seventy men, women and children lived there.
At the visita of San Jose del Tucson he estimated the
population, Christian and pagan, at about two hundred.
It had neither church nor dwelling for the missionary.
Los Santos Angeles de Guevavi was situated on an
Old — Tucson — New 303
arroyo in a fertile region, where a little farming was done
by the Indians. The church and sacristy were well fur-
nished with vestments of every color and with altar uten-
sils. A total of eighty-six was noted as its population.
There was neither church nor house for the missionary at
the visit a of Calabazas, though sixty- four people were to
be ministered to. At San Ignacio de Sonoitac, east of
Guevavi, there was a church and a house but both were
devoid of furniture and ornaments. Ninety-four Indians
lived here. Tumacacori, six leagues south of Guevavi,
had a church and a priest's house, both empty, with a
population of ninety-three.
As I have shown earlier in this chapter, the Mission of
San Xavier del Bac was founded in 1700. All uncer-
tainty as to the date is forever eliminated by Kino's own
statements.1 It had been known as a Papago and Pima
Indian rancheria since the seventeenth century. During
1720 and 1767 the baptismal records show that the sacra-
ment was administered to large numbers of Indians by
twenty-two successive Jesuit priests. Fray Garces was its
most noted Franciscan priest, as Kino was its noted Jesuit
founder. In 1768 it was destroyed by the Apaches but in
1772 the energy of Garces had restored it, and its popu-
lation was recorded as two hundred and seventy. The
present church occupies the site of the older structure and
bears the date over one of its doorways of 1797. This
is assumed to be the time of its completion. It is said to
have been started in 1783, when Fray Baltasar Carillo was
in charge. His successor was Fray Narisco Gutierrez,
who remained in charge until 1799, having as his assist-
1 These, as I have shown elsewhere, are contained in Kino's let-
ters, etc., which were recently discovered in Mexico by Professor
Herbert Bolton, of the University of California, and are soon to
be published by him, with illuminating introduction and explanatory
notes.
/)4 Arizona, the Wonderland
ants Frays Mariano Bordoy, Ramon Lopez and Alonzo
de Prado, hence to these men we undoubtedly owe the
completion of this superior and impressive structure.
San Xavier remained without a resident priest for a
long time, though it was ostensibly under the control of
the Bishop of Sonora. In 1859 the territory of Arizona
was attached to the diocese of Santa Fe, New Mexico.
The bishop, the Rt. Rev. J. B. Lamy, sent his Vicar-
General, J. P. Machebeuf, to take charge of it, and to this
energetic and effective priest we undoubtedly owe its
preservation. With the aid of the Indians and others
who lived in the vicinity temporary repairs were made
which arrested the ravages of the weather, etc.
That it is one of the most striking of all the Mission
buildings within the boundaries of the United States
there can be no question. Built in the form of the cross
— a plan seldom found in these Western Missions — the
fachada is distinctive and impressive. The center part,
over the main doorway, stands out, both in color and
ornament, from the two sides, which, solid and substan-
tial, though plain and undecorated, save for the iron bal-
conies, sustain the two towers, which are the crowning
glories of the fachada. The tower to the left is com-
plete, with the usual dome, lantern, and heaven-pointing
cross. The one to the right has neither dome, lantern,
nor cross, yet these discrepancies instead of detracting
from San Xavier's imposing beauty, seem to lend to it
a quaint and individualistic charm. A similar failure
may have been noted on many of the ecclesiastical struc-
tures of the Spaniards. An explanation has been given
of this incompleteness, the accuracy of which I am un-
able to vouch for. It is to the effect that the crown of
Spain levied no taxes on incompleted ecclesiastical struc-
tures, hence, where funds were low, the buildings pur-
San Xavier del Bac Mission, near Tucson, Arizona.
From a Photograph by Putnam, and Valentine, Los Angeles, Cat.
**~
Old — Tucson — New 305
posely were allowed to remain unfinished, to enable the
padres to take advantage of this exemption.
A few years ago under its zealous caretaker it was
again partially repaired and restored, and within the past
few years, under the personal supervision of the present
Bishop, the Rt. Rev. Henri Gran j on, of Arizona, him-
self no mean architect, much more work has been accom-
plished and a solid and ornamental wall erected around
it. In addition, upon the hill close by, Bishop Gran j on
has established a shrine to Our Lady of Lourdes, and
this has already won veneration and profound regard
from the simple-hearted Indians who still worship here
as their forefathers have done in generations gone by.
Always a place of attraction to the refined and traveled
visitor to Tutson, San Xavier will become more and more
so as the years pass by. It is one of the great historic
memorials of the United States, full of romantic asso-
ciations, and well worth, in its pure architectural glory,
all it costs of time, effort and money, to stop over and
satisfactorily visit it. And when the interested traveler
recalls that he can, with but little more expenditure of
time, ride further up the Santa Cruz Valley, past some
of -the profitable mines of the county, by the Tucson
farms, and the fields where thousands of acres are being
planted out to guayale for the making of rubber, through
the celebrated Revanton ranch and the old time presidio
of Tubac, to San Jose de Tumacacori, another of the
famous Missions of Arizona (and which I have fully de-
scribed in the chapter on Nogales), he will see that in
this one ride from Tucson he has much of fascination,
charm, and historic association.
Of modern Tucson much might be written. Three
separate chapters, viz., those on the Tucson farms, the
Desert Laboratory, and the State University, deal with
306 Arizona, the Wonderland
interests which belong to it in a peculiarly intimate man-
ner. On the line of two railways, the Southern Pacific
and the El Paso and Southwestern, both of which com-
panies have built depots of fine architecture, and with the
main line of the Southern Pacific of Mexico going down
south, directly through Nogales to the northwestern coast
of Mexico, its importance as a railway center is evident.
It holds an equally important position on the great
Borderland " all the year route " across the continent.
There is no winter in Tucson, hence one can travel this
route at the time when rains, snows, sleet and mud render
the most favored of the northern routes almost if not
altogether impassable. Last year (1916) $400,000
worth of bonds were voted for good roads in Pima
County.
Its elevation is 2,369 feet, its location in the center of
a great valley surrounded by towering mountains, the
Santa Catalinas, Rincons, Santa Ritas, Tucsons, and
others. These, especially at the sunset and sunrise hours,
present such visions of glory, sublimity and color splen-
dor as to suggest scenes worthily belonging to the verita-
ble Garden of Allah. It is no fiction of the imagination
to say that no sensitive soul can look upon them unmoved.
One feels, as he gazes upon them, as though he should
remove his shoes, as well as his hat, and sink upon his
knees, for verily he stands upon holy ground and is look-
ing upon one of the sights fitly reserved for angels.
The mines of the Tucson region are now exceedingly
active. In every direction, in the mountains and on the
foothills, the sound of the hammer and drill, and the loud
blast of the exploding dynamite of the miner are heard.
To merely catalogue the mines of the county would fill
several pages. There are mines like the Silver Bell,
those of the Twin Buttes, Mineral Hill and Old Yuma,
Old — Tucson— -New 307
all of which have been great money-makers for their
owners. But new mines are springing up everywhere
and some of these are already giving forth clear indica-
tions that they will go far beyond any of the older mines
in their money-making qualities.
Hence the establishment at Tucson of the United
States Bureau of Mines Experiment Station in connec-
tion with the State Bureau at the University. Mining
activity was never so great as now in and around Tuc-
son, and never were the results so generally profitable.
What with new and cheaper methods of mining, and the
revolution in methods of extracting even the lowest grade
of ores, it is not unreasonable to forecast for Tucson
that, within the next few years, it will be one of the great
mining centers of the West.
Tucson owns its own water system. Deep wells,
which yield an abundant supply of purest water for a city
four times the size of Tucson, have been bored and re-
cently nearly $200,000 was voted to improve and enlarge
the water and sewer systems. It will soon have the most
complete sewer system in the State.
As a residential city for those who are well, or those
who are sick, Tucson has especial charms and advantages.
Many thousands of anemic, neurasthenic and consumptive
men and women have come here during the past twenty-
five years to their swift advantage. Equable climate and
sunshine every day in the year are not everything to
health, but they are wonderful factors towards gaining
and maintaining it. There is nothing more advantageous
than pure air and nothing more vivifying than sunshine.
Out in both of them illness flees; exposing the naked
body to them, under favorable conditions, it gallops away.
To give needed advice to those who are suffering from
diseases of the lungs and throat, the Tucson Sanitarium
308 Arizona, the Wonderland
was founded. It is a magnificent building, as the en-
graving shows, well on the outskirts of Tucson, in exten-
sive grounds of its own. Here not only is the sufferer
treated in the most approved fashion to bring him back
to normal health, but he is educated as to the best way of
preserving health.
There are first-class general hospitals in the city, the
leading one being St. Mary's, under the order of the
Sisters of St. Joseph. It was founded by Archbishop
Salpoint, in 1880, and at the time of its opening was the
only hospital in Arizona. Its wards for medical, surgi-
cal, and maternity cases are equipped in the most ap-
proved modern styles, and it has a training school for
nurses connected with it. Associated with it in manage-
ment, but entirely separate, is a sanitarium for the treat-
ment of tuberculosis. St. Mary's is undoubtedly the
most complete institution of its kind in the Southwest.
But it must not be supposed that one is daily brought
face to face with sickness' in Tucson. The youths and
maidens of the State University, many of them, are
types of rugged, virile, powerful and vigorous young
manhood and womanhood. On the streets, in the stores,
in the warehouses, — everywhere — one meets with men
and women in the most perfect health, for it is a self-
evident proposition that a climate that will bring back
the color to the cheek of the sick, refurnish the anaemic
blood with its full quota of red corpuscles, give vim,
energy, snap and power to the weak and invalided, will
keep in health those who are healthy.
Hence Tucson is growing in favor as a residence city.
Its many streets are lined with beautiful homes, for with
its growing business, its ready access to every part of
the world outside, its fine schools and university, its
women's club-house and various clubs, its men's clubs of
Old — Tucson — New 309
every known kind and order, its two daily and three
weekly newspapers, its magnificent $100,000 Y. M. C. A.,
its churches, its theatres, its fine public library, its speed-
way, its race course and fair-grounds, its four public
parks, its magnificent scenery and incomparable sur-
roundings, it draws the most desirable classes of citizens
within its borders.
After all these things have been enumerated, however,
an occasional objector will ask questions about the sum-
mer climate of Tucson. That it gets hot no one will
deny, but it is a dry heat and therefore is neither ener-
vating nor dangerous. Sunstroke is unknown, and the
nights are invariably cool enough for blankets. Then,
too, forty miles away is Oracle, one of the choicest
mountain summer resorts of the West, where one can
fish, hunt, climb trees, motor or loaf and invite his soul,
in a hundred different ways. Even nearer still Mount
Lemmon (named after Sara Plummer Lemmon, wife of
the famous Professor J. G. Lemmon, one of the noted
botanists of the West, and herself an accomplished bot-
anist), at an altitude of 9,150 feet, is rea.dily accessible.
Here is a perfect forest of pines, literally millions of
them, where one may see for himself how absurd is the
idea that Arizona is treeless. In due time much of this
timber will be lumbered, under the wise supervision of
the Forest Service, but a large portion of it will always
be preserved as a perpetual summer park for the people
of Tucson.
Just one more thing is necessary to make Tucson com-
plete for residence and the best kind of tourist travel.
While it has several good hotels, with structures and
management that rise above the ordinary, it has waited
until 1917 for the erection of a tourist and family hotel
on a par with Hotel del Coronado, Hotel del Monte, the
310 Arizona, the Wonderland
Alexandria and other first-class California hotels. The
Geronimo is to fill this last want in a complete and satis-
factory manner. It is planned by the same architect as
the Los Angeles Alexandria, and neither money, skill,
experience, nor enthusiasm are to be spared in its erec-
tion, equipment and management.
CHAPTER XXII
THE TUCSON FARMS
IN the days of Old Tucson, the Santa Cruz Valley
was regarded as unfit for farming land. When the rains
came, followed by the growth of herbage, it was fairly
good for pasturage, but few of its earlier citizens ever,
regarded it as capable of being developed into productive
farms. This necessitated the purchase of farm products
as the city grew, until, in 1914, in addition to all
the surrounding neighborhood could raise, there were
shipped into Tucson, in carload lots, from the Salt River
Valley, California, Kansas and Eastern States, fifteen
thousand and sixty tons of barley; one hundred and
eighty tons of beans; eight hundred and fifty tons of
canned goods; two thousand, one hundred and five tons
of flour; five hundred and seventy-two tons of deciduous
fruits; three hundred and sixty tons of grain, other than
wheat and barley ; three thousand, one hundred and sixty
tons of hay; one thousand, six hundred and sixty-five
tons of potatoes; one hundred and thirteen carloads of
beef cattle ; nine hundred tons of packing house products;
three hundred and twenty-five tons of fresh vegetables;
one thousand, nine hundred tons of wheat; and by ex-
press, and in less than carload lots, three thousand, five
hundred cases of eggs; twenty-two thousand pounds of
butter; one thousand coops of live poultry; thirty-five
thousand dressed poultry; three thousand, six hundred
and fifty gallons of cream; twenty thousand gallons of
milk; three hundred and thirty-five thousand pounds of
311
312 Arizona, the Wonderland
fresh vegetables ; two hundred and fifty thousand pounds
of fruit.
Yet it was already known to those who had given
study to the subject that every one of these products
could have been raised in the Santa Cruz Valley. The
soil had been analyzed and found to be excellent in every
particular; the climatic conditions were equal to those
on the Nile, whose fertility is world- famed; water for
irrigation was the only thing needed. These facts led to
the organization, in 1910, of Tucson and Chicago busi-
ness men for the purpose of developing the Santa Cruz
Valley lands. Twelve thousand acres of land were pur-
chased. But before making this purchase a corps of
scientific and expert engineers, several of whom had
been in the employ of the United States Reclamation
Service, proceeded to make a thorough reconnaissance of
the country to find out whether water could be found
for all the irrigation needs. Investigation revealed that
the Santa Cruz River has its source in the Huachuca
Mountains in southeastern Arizona, about one hundred
and thirty miles from Tucson, flowing west and north-
west down the Santa Cruz Valley by way of Tucson,
emptying into the Gila River as an underground stream.
The different ranges of mountains on either side of the
valley average about nine thousand feet in height, being
covered with snow during the winter months. The
mountains and the adjacent plateaus form the drainage
area of the Santa Cruz River. The annual rainfall in
the valley is from twelve to twenty inches, and the rain-
fall in the high mountains on either side of the valley
runs up to over forty inches annually, which drains down
and stores into the underground strata of the valley.
This large drainage area is constantly replenishing the
supply.
Electric Pumping Station near Tucson, Arizona.
The Tucson Farms 313
This valley presents a very unusual condition, as the
underground gravels are all river or water worn and
very open. By actual tests it is proven that the water
in this gravel travels from five to seven hundred feet a
day, thus producing the condition that these underground
gravels absorb a very large percentage of all the flood
waters, rain and snowfall from the surrounding moun-
tains, and carry them underground. Therefore, the en-
tire Santa Cruz Valley is a natural underground storage
reservoir, the waters percolating through the under-
ground strata and being conserved by this slow process.
The conditions were so unusual that the Chief En-
gineer of the United States Reclamation Service was led
to give attention to them, and his assistants aided the
company's engineers in their investigations, upon which
over $30,000 was expended. These fully satisfied all
the most exacting demands, and now, knowing for a
surety that they had a permanent and constant water
supply, they constructed the necessary underground
diversion system, large conduits, a large cross-cut, which
extends a mile through the bed of the Santa Cruz River,
bisecting practically the entire valley. In this way a
portion of the water needed for irrigation is obtained
by gravity, this gravity system being supplemented by
nineteen electric pumps installed in this cross-cut. Many
other electric pumps are located elsewhere on this pro-
ject, so that there is no point on the whole twelve thou-
sand acres that cannot receive water within two hours'
time.
Hence a complete system has been developed which
taps this underground storage water supply, bringing it
to the surface and discharging it into canals which dis-
tribute it everywhere over the lands where needed. It
is confidently asserted that no more reliable and complete
314 Arizona, the Wonderland
water system can be found on any land project in the
West.
The company then proceeded to develop its own lands,
before inviting settlers. It wisely decided that results
actually attained would be more convincing than words,
be they never so eloquent, and they have worked
throughout on that principle. Alfalfa was planted out
over large areas, and the yield has been remarkable.
Six to seven cuttings, and more, per year, are made, and
each cutting gives in the neighborhood of one to one and
one-half tons per acre. In 1914, a considerable acreage
was planted in Egyptian cotton, which brings the high-
est price on account of its long, strong and fine staple.
The Southern States have never been able to raise this
highly desirable cotton, and the United States has had
to import its needed supply. Such of the first crop on
the Tucson Farms as was on lands adapted to the
crop yielded a bale to the acre. With cotton at from
twenty cents to thirty cents per pound, and much higher
during war time, the total value of the crop shows a
large return, and it is not unreasonable to assume that
when the land is brought to its highest efficiency by
perfect cultivation, it will yield from one and one-fourth
to one and one-half bales per acre.
Corn and wheat do equally as well, the former, when
properly handled, yielding an average of sixty-five bush-
els, and the latter fifty bushels to the acre.
The climatic conditions that prevail in the Santa Cruz
Valley, however, render farming a very different propo-
sition from what it is in the North or Middle West.
There is no severe frost, and, with the abundant supply
of irrigation water, drought is unregarded. Sunshine
is perpetual throughout the year, and experience demon-
strates that one can plant a field of wheat or barley in
The Tucson Farms 315
October or November, pasture the same through the win-
ter months, harvest it in May and immediately plow the
ground and plant it to corn, which in turn matures with
an average yield of some sixty-five bushels per acre, and
the land is ready in ample time for the planting of an-
other crop of wheat for the following season.
Too great stress cannot be laid upon these facts and all
they imply. Crops never cease growing. There is no
winter, or dormant, season. With reasonable care, and
through the exercise of wisdom in the rotation of crops,
deep plowing and occasional renewal of certain chemical
elements in the soil, crops may be growing in succession
all of the time. This means a tremendous increase on
the yield, per acre, over that which the ordinary Eastern,
Northern or Middle West farmer is wont to obtain,
and the fact that the water for irrigation is steady and
constant, eliminates the uncertainty and dread felt by
those who are dependent upon rain.
Furthermore, the advantageous climate renders pas-
turage sure throughout the whole twelve months. As a
result, dairy and beef cattle can be fed largely on green
feed, out of doors. They need no housing to speak of,
winter or summer, and the consequence is a healthiness
that manifests itself in richer milk, cream, butter and
cheese, and a more rapid increase in weight, which, in
turn, means largely increased returns to the farmer.
It will readily be seen, therefore, that the farmer
works to the greatest possible advantage, and he may
also add largely to his income by chicken and hog rais-
ing. There is an ever growing demand close by for all
the eggs, chickens and hogs that can be produced, and
the prices are high.
But not only are the Tucson Farms productive of
cereals, alfalfa and other fodder crops, chickens and
316 Arizona, the Wonderland
dairy stock. They are found to be admirably adapted to
the growth of trees. Olives, walnuts, peaches, apricots,
mulberries, and, indeed, every variety of fruit, except
citrus fruits, are proved to thrive abundantly. The
growth of the walnut is gone into on a large scale owing
to an interesting discovery. C. R. Biederman, an Ari-
zona Burbank, in experimenting on the walnut, found he
could graft the finest varieties upon the native black
walnut. This gives a resistant and rapidly growing tree
that produces in a marvellous way.
Thus it will be seen that these farming lands offer
unusual advantages to those who contemplate a move
into a new country. The healthfulness of the region I
have fully commented upon elsewhere; close proximity
to Tucson, with its magnificent schools and State Uni-
versity, affords every advantage for the highest type of
education; and I am reliably informed that farmers are
actually making more money on a forty-acre Tucson
farm than on any average one hundred and sixty acres
of Iowa, Illinois, Kansas or Nebraska corn land.
A list of crops I have seen growing on the Tucson
farms would include the following, and yet this is in-
complete :
Alfalfa, Bermuda grass, barley, broom-corn, cane, clover, corn,
Egyptian cotton, cow peas, wheat, flax, feterita, hay, hops, Kaffir
corn, kale, millet, maize, oats, rye, sorghum, Sudan grass, soy beans,
sugar-beets, timothy, wheat, apples, apricots, almonds, blackberries,
dates, dewberries, English walnuts, figs, grapes, mulberries, olives,
peaches, pears, peanuts, plums, quinces, raspberries, strawberries,
artichokes, asparagus, beans, beets, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, canta-
loupe, casaba melons, carrots, cauliflower, celery, egg plant, garlic,
lettuce, muskmelons, mustard, okra, onions, parsnips, parsley, peas,
peppers, persimmons, potatoes, pumpkins, radishes, rhubarb, spinach,
sweet corn, squash, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, turnips, watermelons.
The Tucson Farms Company owns and operates the
The Tucson Farms 317
largest and most modern dairy in Tucson, known as
the Flowing Wells Dairy.
The chief object in operating the dairy is to supply to
the people of Tucson the best milk obtainable, and inci-
dentally to furnish an outlet for the farmers who have
bought lands of the Tucson Farms Company.
At this time, over eight hundred satisfied customers
take the products of the Flowing Wells Company, these
products consisting of milk, butter and buttermilk.
As the supply of milk increases, it is the intention to
enter more largely into the production of butter, for
which there is an insistent and increasing demand.
In this way the company proposes to assist its pur-
chasers of land in disposing of their crops and other
products to the best advantage possible.
On inquiry, I found that the land is sold, with a suffi-
cient water right, at very reasonable prices, when one
considers the enormous crops that may be produced, and
the excellent home market. The selling price is from
two hundred to three hundred dollars per acre.
The comparatively small acreage in this portion of
Arizona that can ever be supplied with irrigation water,
and the great developments in mining in the immediate
vicinity of Tucson, providing a local demand for all sorts
of products of the soil, present a desirable combination
to the farmer, equalled by few localities elsewhere.
The entire Tucson Farms Company project now be-
longs to Mr. Douglas Smith, of Chicago, who is presi-
dent of the company, and Mr. Herbert Nicholson, of
England, who own all the stock and bonds. Mr. Smith
is a well-known and successful business man of Chicago,
and is giving much personal attention to the affairs of
the Tucson Farms Company. Mr. Nicholson is at pres-
ent residing in England, but for many years lived in the
318 Arizona, the Wonderland
United States, where he was engaged in very large agri-
cultural and dairy operations. He also takes a very
deep personal interest in the Tucson project.
The vice president and general manager is Mr. Fred-
eric W. Taylor, who was Chief of the Departments of
Agriculture and Horticulture at the St. Louis World's
Fair, later Director of Agriculture of the Philippine
Islands, and who has been prominent in agricultural and
horticultural activities for many years. While in Rus-
sia, in 1896, he secured the variety of oats known as
" Kherson," distributed later by the Nebraska State Ex-
periment Station, which has been more widely distributed
and more valuable as an acquisition than any other cereal
introduced in many years.
The Secretary of the Chamber of Commerce, Tucson,
Arizona, will supply full information upon request.
CHAPTER XXIII
THE DESERT LABORATORY AT TUCSON
IN a former chapter I have given a truthful picture
of the natural conditions existent upon the deserts of
Arizona. How could these be reclaimed? Were they
capable of reclamation? Many and lamentable have
been the efforts made by the thoughtless and inade-
quately equipped to accomplish this. Farmers from the
East or Middle West, not knowing the conditions in
summer, have toiled and slaved to clear a piece of land,
plowed it and sown it to grain and waited for God
and the blessed rain to do the rest. But the rain never
came. Instead, the scorching heat beat upon the poor
struggling grain and sucked out what little life it had and
left the ground as dead as if nothing had been done to it.
Many a man has spent his labor and little store of money
for naught, for the desert has no pity, shows no mercy,
upon the inadequate and incompetent. It laughs at
man's puerile -attempts at ditch-digging and pipe-laying
where there is no water for ditches and pipes, and the
sun shines on with pitiless and relentless energy regard-
less of man's blasted hopes and withered fields.
Where water could be secured, either from the moun-
tains or wells, crops were assured, but if the water sup-
ply was inconstant, one season, aye, a short portion of a
season, saw gardens, plowed fields, and orchards burnt out
and destroyed.
Hence reclamation must be expected on a large scale,
319
320 Arizona, the Wonderland
so as to insure absolute certainty that water would be
forthcoming when needed. This implied government
aid, or else government handling, and the United States
Reclamation Service was organized by Major J. W.
Powell, the wise and far-seeing head of the Geological
Survey, purely to meet these imperative needs and over-
come these adverse conditions.
Then, as a corollary to the work of the Reclamation
Service, the Experimental Stations were established.
Though under an entirely different branch of the Federal
government — the Agricultural Department — the sci-
entists and practical farmers of the experimental farms
have worked hard with the Reclamation officials, and
others, to bring out successful cultivation of these desert
areas. They have done excellent service, and aided ma-
terially in guiding the farmer and orchardist in his diffi-
cult task. Yet all their work has been handicapped by
the cry for immediate results. A farmer with limited
capital could not wait for long-continued experiments,
and regardless of the fact that wisdom and experience
have taught that it is better to do nothing than work
blindly and unintelligently, the eternal optimism of the
human heart, that blind faith that water and crops must
come if plowing, seeding and planting be done, have
urged many a too-venturesome farmer to his undoing.
In his haste he urged the Experimental Stations for
results, and this naturally militated against the thorough
and complete work the scientists desired to do. For, ever
since the white race has known anything of Arizona, its
deserts have possessed a wonderful lure for them in all
lines of their activities. The climatologist, geologist,
paleontologist, mineralogist, ethnologist, zoologist, biol-
ogist,— all, alike, have yielded to their fascinations. To
the botanist, however, they seemed to possess extra and
The Desert Laboratory at Tucson 321
especial attractions. They desired the secrets of the
plants, flowers, shrubs and trees, why they were able to re-
sist the fearful heat and searching cold of the desert cli-
mates. The bold interrogative never ceased its challenge.
It must be answered. The problems must be solved.
Merriam spent months in the fascinating region about
the San Francisco Mountains and the Little Colorado
River ; Coville wrestled with Death Valley, over the Cali-
fornia side of the line, and both made valuable and mar-
velously interesting contributions to our knowledge of the
life habits of the desert plants. But little or no sys-
tematic study of desert plant life could be carried on,
unless some constant endeavor to that end was made
directly in the field, which should continue over many
years.
To find the men to do this, without governmental aid,
seemed impossible, and as years progressed the scientific
world made larger and greater demands upon govern-
mental funds, so that the attainment of this desirable end
seemed further away than ever. Just at this juncture,
however, Andrew Carnegie's munificent donations to
science opened the way. The men were already in the
field. The two were brought together and in 1902, the
Carnegie Institution of Washington authorized Dr. D.
T. MacDougal and Mr. F. V. Coville to construct a
laboratory at Tucson, Arizona, for the special needs of
botanical research in desert areas. Buildings were
erected on Tumamoc Hill, in a reserve of about eight
hundred and sixty-three acres, bearing characteristic
desert vegetation. To aid in the work other desert areas
were reserved, in connection with the Desert Laboratory
at Tucson, in various parts of the Southwestern States,
including the Salton Sea, in California, and the Santa
Catalina Mountains, in Arizona.
322 Arizona, the Wonderland
The purposes of the Laboratory are purely scientific,
the aims being to determine the chemical and other ele-
ments that enable the plants of the desert to exist and
thrive. Why plants can do this and that and the other
in the torrid heats, and unfrequent rain areas; why,
when floods or winds transplant them into widely diverse
environments they change and become modified in struc-
ture, in appearance, in chemical constitution; why cer-
tain desert plants are able to absorb and utilize moisture
through the leaves and main stems as well as through
the roots; why other plants have the power of storing
water in large quantities in bulbous roots while others
store it in their enlarged bodies; these and a score, a
hundred, other questions pertaining to pure science are
the ones that the Director of the Desert Laboratory and
his assistants seek to solve.
The man chiefly responsible for the organization of
the laboratory and its inspiring genius is Dr. D. T. Mac-
Dougal, who is preeminently equipped for this peculiar
work. He is an enthusiast on deserts, and knows them
by personal exploration. He has been down the Colo-
rado River from the Grand Canyon to the Gulf of Cali-
fornia; has crossed and recrossed the desert areas of
Arizona, California and the Peninsula of Lower Cali-
fornia again and again. He and his faithful assistant,
Godfrey Sykes, have studied and mapped the whole des-
ert region of the lower Colorado River, that to most men
is anathema on account of its inhospitable character.
Then, to compare conditions here with deserts elsewhere,
Dr. MacDougal wandered over the Libyan Deserts, and
familiarized himself with plant life in semi-barren areas
as well as the oases of the upper Nile region.
Besides, he is an enthusiastic scientist, deeply imbued
with that keen curiosity that seeks to know the basic facts
The Desert Laboratory at Tucson 323
behind all phenomena. He is the detective of desert
plant life. With a patience that never tires, an exuber-
ance of spirit that triumphs over every hardship, a phys-
ical constitution that enables him to do the thing he de-
sires, a keenness of intellect that discovers " clues " to
facts undreamed of by casual observers, a trained ob-
servation that far surpasses that of the Indian, and pow-
ers of deduction that come only as the outcome of a life-
time of serious and earnest devotion to science in its
purest phases, he has thrown his whole life into this one
work with an absorption of interest that is as complete
as it is incomprehensible to those who know nothing of
the urge behind it. To know " why," and then to apply
the knowledge gained to the final conquest of the desert
is Dr. MacDougal's aim and end. Man's soul thirsts
for conquest. Thousands have succeeded in conquering
other men, hundreds have conquered other countries, and
have triumphed in the fields of all material endeavor,
scores have laughed as they have dragged forth the hid-
den mysteries of the sciences, but, as yet, none have
really conquered the desert. Here is a new field for
human endeavor; a new world to conquer. True, the
irrigationist has placed water on the desert and solved
the problem so far in that way; but Dr. MacDougal and
his associates seek to compel the desert to be productive
— to blossom as the rose — where water in ordinary
quantities cannot be procured.
Yet it must be remembered that in carrying on their
researches the pure scientist has no immediately eco-
nomic results in view. He makes no claim to being
practical. He is after facts, no matter where they lead
him. He seeks to solve the problems of desert life,
whether the solutions have a practical bearing upon pro-
ductive farming or not. His life is a devotion to science
324 Arizona, the Wonderland
for science's sake, regardless as to whether there is any
monetary outcome as the result of his labors. And it
was because of this fact that Mr. Carnegie's munificence
was so helpful. No government, no state legislature, is
yet ready to do much in the way of engaging the pure
scientist. The results attained are too vague. Though
they may ultimately be of incalculable benefit to mankind
they are not available for immediate purposes, and the
ordinary legislature of 1917 is not voting appropriations
for A. D. 1950 or 2000.
Let me seek to explain, briefly and without technicali-
ties, some of the work the Desert Laboratory seeks to do.
It is well known to botanists and horticulturists that
great changes often occur in plants that have been trans-
ferred from one country to another, where the conditions
of life are entirely different. Color, time of bloom,
habit, structure of the root and shoot, general aspect,
and economic value are all affected by the change. But
no scientific, systematic and long-continued tests of these
things have been made, so that the how and why of the
changes could be recorded. How did the plants adapt
themselves to their new environment? And were the
changes that occurred merely temporary or were they
passed on to the descendants? If they were passed on,
what would be the results of the plant restored to its
original environment? Would the changes still persist,
or would the plant revert to its former condition?
These and a score of similar questions arose in the minds
of the scientists, and Dr. MacDougal is seeking to solve
them. He has taken plants from one desert level and
transferred them to two or three higher levels, where
soil, climate and rainfall are different, and even removed
desert plants to Carmel-by-the-Sea in California, where
there is a belt in which fog prevails during many days
The Desert Laboratory at Tucson 325
of the year. Observations are systematically and thor-
oughly made of the changes that take place in roots,
leaves, flowers, fruits, stems, time of flowering, and
general chemical constitution. The intention is to keep
this up for many generations of the plants tested, so that
if changes occur their permanence will be determined.
Then they will be taken back to their old or still different
environment and similar tests again indulged in. Thus
some of the problems of evolution may be discovered,
and a practical turn may be given to the transfer of
plants from one region to another.
Dr. Cannon is studying the root habits of desert plants.
Most people imagine that desert plant life is main-
tained because the plants send their roots deep down to
where water is to be found. Even as casual an observer
as myself long ago discovered that this was not always
the case, and in my book, The Wonders of the Colorado
Desert, I called attention to the long surface roots that
existed. As Dr. Huntington says:
" In the great gravel slopes, which constitute a large proportion of
most deserts, the water-level is scores or hundreds of feet below the
surface, so that the roots can not possibly reach it. Accordingly the
roots spread horizontally to great distances, keeping close to the
surface to get as much water as possible when occasional rains
moisten the ground to a depth of a few inches or possibly a few
feet. This explans why desert plants seem to be scattered so
sparsely. They look scattered, but, as a matter of fact, they are as
crowded as the plants of wet regions. The individuals may be ten
or twenty or more feet apart, but there is no room between them for
others, simply because the roots spread widely in a horizontal di-
rection, and those of a single plant require all the available moisture
of a considerable area." 1
When he began his studies Dr. Cannon had no imme-
diate practical results in view. He sought to understand
1 The Desert Laboratory, Harper's Magazine, April, IQII.
326 Arizona, the Wonderland
the facts. But as his knowledge of the facts increases
he may be able to apply it to such practical ends as the
growing of wheat, barley, fruit or vegetables, in which
the needed kind of roots, stems, leaves and other organs
may be developed.
Or, as Dr. Huntington expresses it :
" In course of time it is possible that by careful selection we may
obtain a variety of wheat which, as soon as it sprouts, will begin to
develop the roots horizontally, and will spread them far and wide
before it sends up much of a shoot. Such wheat may not grow in
dense fields like those of moist regions, but in isolated heads, perhaps,
with several stalks to a head. It might not yield crops equal to those
of rainy regions, but it would at least give fair crops on lands which
are now entirely wasted." 1
Dr. MacDougal is also carrying on another most fas-
cinating series of experiments. He is actually becom-
ing, himself, a potent and determining factor in the evo-
lution of plant life. In the past many changes have
taken place in the development of plants, and man has
been interested in watching and recording these develop-
ments. But he has been able to do nothing more. He
was merely the outsider watching operations in which
he could take no part. Now, however, Dr. MacDougal
is changing this. By means of highly diluted solutions
of various chemicals he is affecting the ovaries of plants
previous to their fertilization. These solutions so affect
the various tissues that the pollen is changed, and " the
seeds produced by the union of the nuclei of the pollen
and ovule possess certain quantities not belonging to
either parent." This may or may not cause marked and
important changes. Even if it does produce a new and
definite variation from the parent type, tests have to
determine whether the new manifestation is permanent
1 Harper's Magazine, April, 1911.
The Desert Laboratory at Tucson 327
or not. The scientist watches eagerly to learn whether
its seeds will produce plants of the new type or the old.
That thousands of failures have occurred was to be
expected, but that some definite and striking results have
been produced in a few plants is gratifying in the ex-
treme, in that it points the way to future possibilities
upon lives hitherto unsuspected. The Oenothera biennis
is one of the successful experiments. After the changes
were produced by the chemical infusions, the plant was
watched carefully for six and more generations and " the
derivative still retains its characteristics and shows no
tendency to revert to the parent type." It has also been
attempted to hybridize the new with the old species — a
thing easy to accomplish were the new product only a
variety instead of a definite species. But though the
new and old forms were planted so closely together that
their branches interlocked there has been little or no
commingling. Hence there is little question that a
new and distinct species has been produced.
Who can foretell what this discovery may mean in
future developments? As Dr. Huntington sagely re-
marks, however, there are two sides to these possibilities :
" The importance of Dr. MacDougal's discovery will appear greater
with the lapse of time. Hitherto in all our attempts to improve the
quality of plants and animals we have been obliged to wait for some
natural variation, produced by causes not yet understood, and then
carefully to preserve the variant until it changes again in the desired
direction. Now it appears as if man might soon be able to induce
variation in plants almost at will. Where formerly only one seed in
a million showed any distinct departure from the present type, a
thousand may now be made to possess new attributes. Mankind has
suddenly acquired a new and untried weapon which may be of incal-
culable importance, not merely for good, but for ill. Poor judgment
on the part of some experimenter may allow the evolution and es-
cape of some useless grass of stunted growth and low food value,
so hardy as to drive the valuable grasses from the hay fields of a
328 Arizona, the Wonderland
state. The risk, of evil, however, is far out-balanced by the possi-
bilities of good." *
These, then, are some of the problems the Desert Lab-
oratory has set itself to solve. The conquest of the des-
ert has but just begun. The methods of the past are to
be reinforced and enlarged by the research of the chem-
ists, the biologists and the new science of this new day.
That in this work Dr. MacDougal and his associates
will have an honored, important, and primary place is
already assured.
1 Harper's Magazine, April, 1911.
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CHAPTER XXIV
THROUGH APACHE-LAND OVER THE APACHE TRAIL
MOST people never saw an Apache, singly or with his
band, ride over the rugged mountains, mesas, deserts
and up and down the canyons of Arizona, as I have
done. It is almost impossible for the ordinary mind to
conceive that a horse, carrying a human being, can per-
form such feats as were the every-day experiences of
these Bedouins of the American deserts. Reckless ? —
they knew not they were reckless ; dare-devils ? — it was
their habitual mode of riding; exhausting? — they were
tireless, Nature's perfect instruments of action, muscular
as a grizzly, persistent as a panther following his prey.
Well might they keep the whole of Sonora, Mexico, and
Arizona, U. S. A., in terror for centuries — as they actu-
ally did — until they were hunted down and properly
pacified.
The landscape they rode over, trampled under their
horses' feet, was befitting their own nature. It was wild,
rugged, desolate, awe-inspiring, weird, mountain-sur-
rounded, different. It was distinctly Arizonan and Apa-
chean. Nothing could tame it, subdue it, bring it under
control, gentle it. So said the earlier travelers who saw
it, just as they said of the Apache.
Yet they were wrong. The Apaches have been tamed
and gentled; they have disciplined themselves, as well as
been under the chastening rod of the United States army
and Indian bureau, and, equally surprising, the wild of
329
330 Arizona, the Wonderland
the landscape is now a part of civilized man's daily out-
look. Where the Apache used to ride in wildest aban-
don the automobile now races, and my lady, in her silks
and satins, venturing from the parade grounds of Fifth,
Euclid, Commonwealth, Pennsylvania, St. Charles, and
other ultra-civilized avenues of Eastern and Southern
cities, looks out in wonderment and surprise, often in
enthusiasm and delight, over scenery her eyes have never
before contemplated. Here is the Arizona rarified at-
mosphere, translucent, pellucid, clarified beyond anything
elsewhere on earth, stimulating to senses and imagina-
tion and truly air fit for angels and gods. Here are
desert and mountain colors found only in lands of magic
enchantment. No dweller in cities ever enjoyed such
resplendent glories as are daily food here. Here are
contrasts wider than if Pharaoh and Moses chatted with
Bryan and Mrs. Pankhurst; contrasts living and dead,
scenic and ethnologic. Here ancient and modern dwell
together in harmonious unity; cliff-dwelling and electric-
power plants, superstition and civilization joggle elbows,
and one refers to events that happened not " befo' de
war," but " before the flood." No pantomime, en-
chanted land, scenic fantasies that thrill, as the changing
scenes of " the Wizard of Oz," fairy landscapes designed
by the most imaginative of scene-painters, ever came
into the same category with this land of actuality and
reality now as easily traveled as one goes from one recep-
tion to another.
For years travelers from the Atlantic to the Pacific
sides of our vast continent have asked for " breaks " in
the journey. They grew weary of the monotonous con-
finement of four, five, days in a Pullman car. They
longed for a touch of the open, and, while they did not
confess it, thousands felt the " call of the wild," and the
Over the Apache Trail in the Olden Days.
In the Salt River Canyon, Arizona.
Through Apache-Land 331
" lure of the desert." It was left for the Southern
Pacific Company to supply these demands of its exacting
travelers. It is all planned, all arranged, just as the
ferry-boats from New York to Hoboken, Oakland to
San Francisco, are planned, arranged. Taking any of
the trains of this company from the east to the west,
which connect with their Sunset Route, one in due time
reaches Bowie, Arizona, where the main line is left for
a four hours' ride over the Arizona Eastern Railway to
Globe. We are already in Apache-land. These wild
and savage nomads roamed up and down these canyons
long before the prospectors made their appearance and
discovered the great copper deposits that for generations
have kept white men working here.
A night's comforting rest at a good hotel prepares
one for the morning's ride and breakfast, ready for the
auto-stage which toots promptly for us at 8:30. We
are ready. We are off. This is the new version of the
magic carpet, and' far more in accordance with modern
ideas. Here you are on terra firma, a competent chauf-
feur at the wheel of the high-class motor car. A slight
jolt once in a while, a gentle jar, to remind you that you
are really on earth, that it is not your astral body taking
flight to realms unknown to your now body, but other-
wise the road is firm, smooth and well engineered all
the way. Globe smelters, Miami mining-shafts and
frontier civilization are soon left behind. We swing
into the hills. The pure air intoxicates us, but it is a
new type of intoxication. It is a genuine physical and
mental exhilaration. Fourteen miles pass so speedily
that we feel we have scarcely started, yet we have wound
around rugged mountain shoulders where, but for man's
magic engineering skill, only the eagle could have soared,
and new panoramas have opened and shut to our gaze.
332 Arizona, the Wonderland
Now an extensive view of the Apache Mountains is
given, and speedily, when we rise to a point 3,700 feet
above sea-level, our delighted eyes dwell upon the sixteen-
mile-away Sierra Ancha, while sixty miles to the north-
west, in the Mazatzal range, tower the " Four Peaks,"
nearly 8,000 feet in the velvety blue of the Arizona
sky.
Of course you did not expect you were coming to a
city boulevard; you were not so foolish as to imagine
this rough country has been transformed overnight into
the smooth easiness of a city park. You are in the
wilds. Extra refinements and luxuries are not provided,
nor would they be in place on this ride.
When we reach the Summit, just two feet less than
four thousand in elevation, a panorama of Resplendent
Glories and Weird Mysteries is spread out at our feet.
We recall that Browning cried : " Look thou not down
but up," yet we pay not the slightest attention. Our
gaze is held down, gladly, willingly, delightedly, upon
this unique scene. You know Gustave Dore's Bible pic-
tures of the deluge, and his Ancient Mariner scenes?
Here they are! You know the creepy sensations Edgar
Allan Poe's stories used to give you? You feel tHm
now ! You remember the mental stimulus and exhilara-
tion you felt when the sonorous sounding and stately
steps of Milton's verse rang in your ears ? You feel the
same stimulus and exhilaration here! You recall the
vivid thrill of satisfaction when you read in Dante his
incomparable descriptions of the overthrow and utter
damnation of all evil? You get the thrill again here!
For before us are Deluge, Ancient Mariner, Unseen
Mystery, Weirdest Happenings, Battles of Angels and
Devils, Heaven, Purgatory, and Hell, all commingled,
joggling each other, openly displayed, while the only
AT THE FOOT OF THE FISH CREEK GRADE, ON THE APACHE TRAIL.
Through Apache-Land 333
peculiar factor is the great crystal sea, glistening in the
bottom of the mountain bowl, as though it were the bath-
ing place of angels and fiends and on which the enrap-
tured gaze would soon discover new and hitherto un-
known types of vessels.
What have I said ? Read it again ! Words ! Words !
Words! But cannot you understand what I am driving
at? I'm trying to tell you of the untellable. I'm trying
to describe the indescribable. That is what it amounts
to. The words I have written are merely the sugges-
tions of emotions this scene awakens within me. It is
not often that scenery evokes my tears. This always
does; just as some music does, — just as the movement
of large bodies of drilled men does, just as the solemn
mass of a cathedral does, just as the recollection of a
great man's heroic deed does. I could sit on this Sum-
mit and dream and dream for hours, and then begin and
dream again.
But the auto begins the descent. Down, down, we
go, into the enchanted bowl. Believe in enchantment?
Of course we do; we can't help it here. We're fully
under the influence, and none of it is lost by the startling
changes that take place — now looking out over the wide
expanse of the sun-kissed and diamond-bedecked sea,
the next moment whirling around an overhanging cliff
into an abysmal ravine, and then stopping to go up a
canyon to some interesting cliff-dwellings. There are
several groups of them. Community homes they were,
with accompanying storage rooms, where corn, grass-
seeds, fruits and vegetables were kept for times of
famine or drought. One house has twenty rooms. An-
cient pottery, corn cobs, corn itself, cotton weaving, tur-
quoise beads, basketry, stone implements have all been
taken from these ruins. Where did they get the corn?
334 Arizona, the Wonderland
It was a gift of the gods. On their pottery is every
geometrical design known to modern science; in their
cotton- and basket-weaving every stitch produced by
modern looms. Great inventors were these quaint peo-
ple of a prehistoric past. Where were their cotton-fields ?
Long before there were any cotton-fields " way down
' South," these dusky ancestors of our present-day Pueblo
Indians were planting, cleaning, carding, spinning and
weaving cotton. But it is not true that because these
doorways are small, these ceilings low, their inhabitants
were " Little People." That is a guess of the little-
visioned. They were as tall as the modern guessers,
for so their bones reveal. They made small doorways
in order that they might find slabs of rock large enough
to act as doors, for they had not learned the art of saw-
ing logs into lumber and making wooden doors. Per-
haps, too, they were pursued by fierce and warlike foes
bent on their ruthless extermination, and perhaps they
were not. I have tried to present this whole matter in
the light of the fullest recent scientific investigation, and
the results will be found in my Prehistoric CHJ- Dwell-
ings of the Southwest.
Leaving the cliff-dwellings our motor soon carries us
to one of the most stupendous works of modern engi-
neering. Here is constructive civilization, work for the
heartening, encouraging and uplifting of mankind. It
needs no specious arguments, as does war, to justify its
mere existence. Man's genius and skill have replaced,
by the erection of solid masonry, the splitting, cutting,
or eroding work of centuries in breaking through the
mountain wall which once compelled the housing of a
vast lake in the area the Roosevelt Lake now covers.
A wall 1,125 feet long, 284 feet high, and 168 feet
thick at its base is no mean dam, and this, too, is
Through Apache-Land 335
named after the president who furthered the work of the
U. S. Reclamation Service all he possibly could. The
waters of Salt River and the Tonto come flowing down
from a watershed of 6,260 square miles in extent, and
are then distributed in the Salt River Valley over 360
square miles, where fruits and flowers, trees and fodder
plants, grain and vegetables have displaced sahuaros,
cactus, yucca and salt bush; apricots, pears, peaches and
oranges take the place of mesquite, desert willow, smoke-
tree and ironwood, and thorough-bred Jerseys, Holsteins
and Here fords roam over land once sacred to the dart-
ings to and fro of lizards, horned toads, chucka wallas
and rattle-snakes.
Who would not rather be the creator, the engineer of
these marvellous and beneficent changes than the victor
of a score of great battles that carry in their wake devas-
tation, death, destruction, misery, despair, banished hap-
piness ?
Yet these scenes have echoed to the shock of firing of
guns and field pieces. Crook, Lawton, Miles, King and
others have commanded troops here to follow Apaches to
their death. Cochise, Mangas Colorado, Geronimo, and
other Apache chiefs, have ridden wildly, madly, furi-
ously ahead of or behind American troops over every
mile of this region. The bravest of the brave of all
North American Indians, fearless to the highest degree,
uncowed by forces ten, twenty times their number, they
fought on for freedom and independence. Of course
they were wickedly cruel, horribly vindictive, vilely
treacherous — why shouldn't they be? They were
avowedly savages. No one of intelligence ever expected
them to play the bloody game of war in white kid gloves,
or to respect the white man's rules of the game. Why
should they? The tiger digs his claws in as hard as
336 Arizona, the Wonderland
he can, and strikes anywhere, everywhere, anyhow. He
is a brute, a savage. The panther slinks and sneaks and
lurks and dogs. It is his nature. The wild cat and
lynx know but one law, — kill or to be killed, and to
avoid being killed by killing their foe is the highest
morality they know. The Apache was the same. His
code has been expressed in detail by reference to these
wild animals. He was the original exponent of the
" highest type of modern warfare."
If one desires to stop for a while amid these historic,
memorable and modernly scientific surroundings a com-
fortable hostelry is provided, in The Lodge, perched on
a rocky promontory between the east and west arms of
the lake. We ride across the top of the dam to it. To
see the cliff-dwellings properly one should remain here
overnight, especially if one be an angler fond of black-
bass fishing. Hundreds of thousands of them await
capture by the rod, reel or trolling-spoon.
In a very short time after this book appears the South-
ern Pacific Company will have built a quarter ($250,-
ooo) of a million dollar hotel on Roosevelt Lake, where
travelers will find every luxury and comfort. The in-
tention is to let Americans and other world-wide trav-
elers see the wildest part of Arizona in the easiest and
most comfortable manner — that is, one may go out
from and return to the cosiest, most luxurious hotel in
the Southwest, and do his fishing, hunting, exploring,
rambling amongst cave- and cliff-dwellings and the like,
with this restful thought ensconced in the back of his
brain.
From the Roosevelt Dam it is eighty miles to Phcenix,
over a road largely built by Apaches ; not wild Apaches
of the old fighting days, for they built no roads, but self-
disciplined Apaches who said to Louis C. Hill, Super-
Through Apache-Land 337
vising Engineer of the U. S. Reclamation Service:
" Tell us what you want us to do; show us how to do it;
then leave us alone. We need neither bosses nor spot-
ters. We'll do our work faithfully and well." And
we, now, are riding over a road, cut on precipitous sides
of mountain cliffs, and gaping canyons, over gulch and
plateau made by those whilom savages, absolutely under
the conditions I have named. How many groups of
" civilized " workingmen could be trusted with such work,
with such freedom? Personally I am trying to pattern
after the Apaches in many things, and furthermore, I am
exceedingly anxious that millions of smug Americans
may learn the fact and be incited to do likewise.
The wild waters of Salt River dash down their rocky
bed far away below, but they are tamed now — like the
Apaches, — and are going on their beneficent mission to
the smiling valley. The scene is ruggedly inviting, for
on every slope are ocatillas, chollas, mammillaria,
opuntias, cactuses, amoles, agaves, echinocactuses, sahu-
aros in bewildering variety, and leading the eye to the
velvet blue of the sky where are domes, buttes, minarets,
spires and towers crowning masses of rocky layers of red,
pink, chocolate, vermilion, buff, orange and cream, where
Nature's paint-pots once were overturned.
We look back, ere we finally pass away from Roosevelt
Dam, for in this year of our Lord, 1917, the spillways are
overflowing, and it is not a great stretch of the imagina-
tion to conceive ourselves in a lesser Yosemite, with foamy
falls to justify us.
Now, on we go and ten miles away from the dam we
see the Old Woman's Shoe Mountain, the Eagle Peak,
and finally Arrowhead. We are on a genuine mountain
road, up and down, turning and twisting around and
around. Then we enter Fish Creek Canyon, full of
338 Arizona, the Wonderland
lights and shadows, charms and thrills until we reach the
meal station. No! don't expect a description of a ban-
quet. It is a real old-fashioned, pioneer day stage-
station meal, — probably fried ham, boiled beef, cabbage,
beans with chili, cold slaw, bread, pie, cheese and coffee,
— but it is good, for we are hungry, and what the meal
lacks in service and elaborate preparation it possesses in
staying qualities.
While you are enjoying your after-lunch cigar let me
tell you one exciting incident that occurred within six or
seven miles of where you sit. This is called the Apache
Trail. Far more justly should it be called the Apache's
Country. Trail ! One trail ! There are scores of trails ;
trails in every direction, north, south, east, and west, for
the Apaches roamed over every inch of this region and
within a radius of two or three hundred miles. Strike
out for any mountain peak, any canyon, any ravine, any
cluster of trees, and you will run into a place reeking
with memories and stories of Apaches. These trails are
everywhere, crossing and crisscrossing the country like a
dozen cobwebs superposed one upon another. Do you
see yon quiet looking canyon? Two or three miles up
there one of the most disastrous battles of Apache war-
fare took place. Captain Bourke tells the story. After
the Apache scout — Natanje — had led them a merry
route up and down the steep slopes of the Salt River —
just picture this half a mile or so after you leave the
Roosevelt Dam — the troops came to where Natanje
recommended that Lieutenant Ross be sent forward on
the trail with twelve or fifteen of the best shots among
the soldiers. They were to reach a cave in which
Natanje had been brought up, and where, he assured the
officers, a large band of renegade Apaches would be
found.
Through Apache-Land 339
" Natanje led them down the slippery, rocky, dangerous trail in
the wall of the gloomy canyon, which in the cold gray light of the
slowly creeping dawn, and under the gloom of our surroundings,
made us think of the Valley of the Shadow of Death. ' They ought
to be very near here,' said Major Brown. 'Good heavens! What
is all that ? ' It was a noise equal to that of a full battery of six-
pounders going off at once. Brown knew that something of the
greatest consequence had happened, and he wasn't the man to wait
for the arrival of messengers ; he ordered me to take command of
the first forty men in the advance, without waiting to see whether they
were white or red, soldiers or packers, and go down the side of the
canyon on the run, until I had joined Ross, and taken up a position
as close to the enemy as it was possible for me to get without bring-
ing on a fight ; meantime, he would gather up all the rest of the com-
mand, and follow me as fast as he could, and relieve me. There was
no trouble at all in getting down that canyon; the difficulty was to
hold on to the trail ; had any man lost his footing, he would not have
stopped until he had struck the current of the Salt River (Salado)
hundreds of feet below. In spite of everything, we clambered down,
and by great good luck broke no necks. As we turned a sudden
angle in the wall, we saw the condition of affairs most completely.
The precipice forming that side of the canyon was hundreds of feet
in height, but at a point some four or five hundred feet below the
crest had fallen back in a shelf upon which was a cave of no great
depth. In front of the cave great blocks of stone furnished a natural
rampart behind which the garrison could bid defiance to the assaults
of almost any enemy; in this eyrie, the band of Nanna-chaddi felt
a security, such as only the eagle or the vulture can feel in the
seclusion of the ice-covered dizzy pinnacles of the Andes. From the
shelf upon which they lived these savages, who seem to me to have
been the last of the cliff-dwellers within our borders, had on several
occasions watched the commands of Sanford and Carr struggling to
make their way up the stream in the canyon below.
" . . . . The fearful noise which we had heard, reverberating from
peak to peak and from crag to crag, was the volley poured in by Ross
and his comrades, which had sent six souls to their last account, and
sounded the death-knell of a powerful band. The surprise and ter-
ror of the savages were so complete that they thought only of the
safety which the interior of the cave afforded, and as a consequence,
when my party arrived on the scene, although there were a number
of arrows thrown at us as we descended the path and rounded the
angle, yet no attempt was made at counter-assault, and before the
Apaches could recover from their astonishment the two parties united,
numbering more than fifty, nearer sixty, men, had secured position
Arizona, the Wonderland
within thirty yards of one flank of the cave, and within forty yards
of the other, and each man posted behind rocks in such a manner
that he might just as well be in a rifle pit.
". . . . Brown's first work was to see that the whole line was im-
pregnable to assault from the beleaguered garrison of the cave, and
then he directed his interpreters to summon all to an unconditional
surrender. The only answer was a shriek of hatred and defiance,
threats of what we had to expect, yells of exultation at the thought
that not one of us should ever see the light of another day, but
should furnish a banquet for the crows and buzzards, and some scat-
tering shots fired in pure bravado. Brown again summoned all to
surrender, and when jeers were once more his sole response, he
called upon the Apaches to allow their women and children to come
out, and assured them kind treatment. To this the answer was the
same as before, the jeers and taunts of the garrison assuring our
people that they were in dead earnest in saying that they intended
to fight until they died. For some moments the Apaches resorted
to the old tactics of enticing some of our unwary soldiers to expose
themselves above the wall of rocks behind which Major Brown or-
dered all to crouch ; a hat or a war bonnet would be set up on the
end of a bow, and held in such a way as to make-believe that there
was a warrior behind it, and induce some one proud of his mark-
manship to 'lay' for the red man and brother, who would, in his
turn, be ' laying ' for the white man in some coign of vantage close
to where his squaw was holding the head-gear. But such tricks were
entirely too transparent to deceive many, and after a short time the
Apaches themselves grew tired of them, and began to try new meth-
ods. They seemed to be abundantly provided with arrows and
lances, and of the former they made no saving, but would send them
flying high in the air in the hope that upon coming back to earth
they might hit those of our rear guard who were not taking such
good care of themselves as were their brothers at the front on the
skirmish line."
All this was mere preliminary to the real fight, which
now began in earnest. It was impossible to escalade the
cave without ladders, as the great rock wall in front of
it was fully ten and more feet high and as smooth as the
palm of the hand. At first it seemed as if a long siege
would be necessary, until some one noticed that the roof
of the cave so slanted that bullets fired against it would
glance downwards among .the Apaches who had massed
Through Apache-Land 341
immediately back of the rocky rampart. This suggested
the tactics which were immediately followed and which
led to the total extinction of practically the whole band.
The soldiers were ordered to fire at the roof, and the
shrieks and wails that followed soon convinced the attack-
ers that their shots were having terrible effect.
Then, suddenly, there was a lull on the part of the
Apaches, and from the silence there came the weird chant,
the death song, half- wail, half exultation, the frenzy of
despair and the wild cry for revenge. This led the
Apache scouts of our soldiers to cry out a warning.
" Beware ! They are desperate and getting ready for a
charge ! " None too soon was the caution given. Let
Bourke describe what follows :
" ' Look out ! Here they come ! ' Over the rampart, guided by one
impulse, moving as if they were all part of the one body, jumped and
ran twenty of the warriors — superb-looking fellows all of them;
each carried upon his back a quiver filled with the long reed arrows
of the tribe, each held in his hand a bow and a rifle, the latter at
full cock. Half the party stood upon the rampart, which gave them
some chance to sight our men behind the smaller rocks, in front,
and blazed away for all they were worth — they were trying to make
a demonstration to engage our attention, while the other part snd-
• denly slipped down and around our right flank, and out through the
rocks which had so effectively sheltered the retreat of the one who
had so nearly succeeded in getting away earlier in the morning.
Their motives were divined, and the move was frustrated ; our men
rushed to the attack like furies, each seeming to be anxious to en-
gage the enemy at close quarters. Six or even seven of the Apaches
were killed in a space not twenty-five feet square, and the rest
driven back within the cave, more or less wounded."
One tall, well-proportioned, finely-muscled Apache,
with bold manly countenance, slipped down unnoticed
from the rampart and made his way to the space between
the two lines of soldiers, and, not seeing the rear line,
imagined he was safe in giving the signal for his com-
342 Arizona, the Wonderland
panions to join him, but at his first shout, twenty carbines
were pointed in his direction, and his shout of triumph
became his death note, for he was literally shot to pieces.
While the fierce conflict was raging, the death chant from
the cave growing louder and wilder, the voices of squaws
clearly uniting with those of the men, and shots rapidly
being fired from both sides, though on the part of the
Apaches it was exactly like the desperate endeavor of rats
caught in a trap, Captain Burns with Company G, hearing
the firing at a distance, hurried to join the fighters.
When they reached the summit of the precipice they
halted to let the men get their breath. Looking down
over towards the cave they saw the Apaches behind their
rocky rampart. Some of the soldiers were immediately
lowered by the suspenders of their comrades to where
they could fire upon the Indians with their revolvers.
Then Captain Burns immediately gained another idea.
He ordered his men to roll several of the huge boulders,
which covered the surface of the mountain, and drop
them over, on the unsuspecting foe. Bourke says :
" The noise was frightful ; the destruction sickening. Our volleys
were still directed against the inner faces of the cave and the roof
and the Apaches seemed to realize that their only safety lay in crouch-
ing close to the great stone heap in front, but even this precarious
shelter was now taken away; the air was filled with the bounding,
plunging fragments of stone, breaking into thousands of pieces with
other thousands behind, crashing down with the momentum gained
in the descent of hundreds of feet. No human voice could be heard
in such a cyclone of wrath ; the volume of dust was so dense that
no eye could pierce it, but over on our left it seemed that for some
reason we could still discern several figures guarding that extremity
of the enemy's line — the old 'Medicine Man,' who, decked in all
the panoply of his office, with feathers on head, decorated shirt on
back, and all the sacred insignia known to his people, had defied the
approach of death, and kept his place, firing coolly at everything
that moved on our side that he could see, his rifle reloaded and
handed back by his assistants — either squaws or young men, it
Through Apache-Land 343
was impossible to tell which, as only the arms could be noted in
the air."
This latter method of attack had done the horrible
business. About noon preparations were made for a
charge, for it was still uncertain whether the Apaches
had retreated to the inmost recesses of the cave, but there
need have been no fear. Very few, either of men, women
or children, had escaped being severely wounded, even
though life still remained. How any of them escaped
complete destruction seems a mystery. Let the accom-
panying photograph, made twenty or more years ago,
and as many years as that after the dread occurrence, tell
its own tale. The slaughter of this band was complete.
It would never again take toll of the life of white man,
woman or child.
This is the kind of story that may be told of a score or
more places on, or near, the Apache Trail. Some one
had to fight to win the immunity and freedom from fear
the passengers on Wesley Hill's fine automobiles now
enjoy. But it is well to know something of how this
freedom was secured, hence the long digression 'for the
telling of this part of the story.
After leaving Fish Creek station we come to the real
thrilling portion of the road from the scenic standpoint.
The canyon seems to be " blind " — our road a mere
pretense to lure us in some secret lair, but, just as it seems
impossible to go further, it swings to the right and begins
to climb. From a distance our car must look like a
fly on a wall, and though we go up on " high," we crawl.
The rocks are wild, rugged, impressive, grand; the can-
yon below, threaded with a silver stream, and made bright
with many rustling leaves.
We breathe easier when the summit is reached, yet
when we look down whence we have come, and see Fish
344 Arizona, the Wonderland
Creek station a thousand feet below, and finally reach
Cape Horn, where a matchless view of country is spread
out in gentle slopes at our feet, leading the eye out on to
the rugged mountains of the Northwest, we find our-
selves breathing deeply again. But this time it is with
excitement at the unexpected grandeur and awesomeness
of the view. A titanic workshop, where demons and
men have hurled great masses of rock at each other, ere
the waters brought in the soil to fill in the spaces be-
tween. Imagination runs riot in such scenes. We wish
Dore were here, and then Turner, to give to others some
ideas of the weirdness of the forms, and the splendor of
the colors our eyes rest upon.
Soon we come to Canyon Diablo with its narrow and
abysmal depths, a mere stone's throw from our road, and
as we rapidly descend, Niggerhead Mountain seems to
rise. After passing through Black Canyon we come to
our last divide, near the base of the Superstition Moun-
tains— on our left — and the whole glory of the Salt
River Valley is before us.
Indian legends of the Pimas tell us wondrous stories
of these rugged and impressive mountains. It is an
Indian version of the flood story of the Bible, and the
foam and spume have left their marks on the topmost
peaks, while all around, in the spires and pinnacles of
rocks are the wretched men and women who fled here
for safety.
As we ride along at the base of this majestic range the
new and transformed Garden of Allah opens up more
fully before us. Once a desert of deserts — a wild,
inhospitable land of cactus, sahuaros, salt-bush, creosote
and sage, where coyotes howled and yelped their despair,
and even the horned-toad, lizard and rattle-snake felt the
desolation; noiv, a thriving land of beauty and cultiva-
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Through Apache-Land 345
tion, of orange, olive, apricot and peach orchards, of
smiling fields of corn, alfalfa and sugar beets, where
happy people live in homes of refinement, culture and
content.
Our motor engine purrs its satisfaction at the good
roads and the pastoral character of the scenery, as we
dash along. Sunset comes with the magic of its color-
ings, tints, shades and faint hints of new colors. Pinks
fade into saffrons, saffrons into canary, and then a gentle
rose blush flushes everything with its delicate suggestion.
We pass through Mesa, where the State Normal School
stands ; Tempe, where the Mormons settled in early days ;
and in the near south we catch glimpses of Chandler, with
its rarely beautiful, unique and hospitable San Marcos
hotel. Those who have time and are informed — wise,
some people call it — to the San Marcos, insist upon
being taken there and spend a day, a week, which often
expands to a month, for reasons I shall recount in
another chapter. Others ride on into Phoenix, spend a
day or two studying that interesting and rapidly progress-
ing city, and then board their Pullman for the continua-
tion of their railway journey west.
But whether they delay for a day or two or go
straight on, all travelers over the Apache Trail gladly
confess that they take memories with them that will never
be effaced.
CHAPTER XXV
PRESCOTT AND YAVAPAI COUNTY
WHEN Arizona was dismembered from New Mexico
and raised to the dignity of a Territory in its own right,
the first legislature assembled in Prescott in September,
1864, and there divided the vast area into four counties,
viz., Pima, Yuma, Mohave, and Yavapai. The last
named county reached from the New Mexican line on
the east, the Utah line on the north, the middle of the
Gila River on the south, and the present line on the west.
This has since yielded Gila, Maricopa, Coconino, and
Apache counties, for the original area was nearly
as large as the State of New York. The Indians from
whom the county was named were the pai — " people "of
the yava or yama " land of big rocks," and any one who
knows the Granite Rocks and Dells near Prescott, the
rocks of the Red Rock country, the Tonto Basin, and
the Mogollon Buttes, and the even more wonderful rocks
of the Monument Valley region far to the north, near
the Utah line, will realize the full significance of the
name. In those days Yavapai County was largely a
terra-incognita. In its borders were the Grand Canyon,
Havasupai Canyon, the Little Colorado Canyon, the
Canyon de Chelly, Monument, Del Muerto, Oak Creek,
Walnut, Diablo and other scenic canyons ; cliff- and cave-
dwellings galore; Hopi, Navaho, Wallapai, Havasupai,
Tonto- Apache, Mohave-Apache, and other Indians ; with
the towering San Francisco Mountains, Mounts Bill Wil-
346
Prescott and Yavapai County 347
Hams, Kendricks, Sitgreaves, and many other peaks and
ranges of dominating grandeur and sublimity; the
Painted Desert, and more marvels and wonders than any
other similar area, I venture to affirm, than can be found
elsewhere on earth.
Pared down though it now is to a small part of its for-
mer size it is still a great domain, larger than the State
of New Jersey, and though Prescott is no longer the
capital city, as it was from 1864 to 1867, and again from
1877 to 1889, when the capital was permanently removed
to Phoenix, it is now growing by the sheer force of its
own inherent advantages. Though not on either of the
direct main or transcontinental lines, it is reached easily
from either the Southern Pacific on the south, by way of
Maricopa and Phoenix, or the Santa Fe on the north from
Ash Fork, the line from this latter station to Phoenix,
being a branch of the Santa Fe.
Yavapai County is the home, too, of the great United
Verde mines, largely owned by former Senator W. A.
Clark, the richest copper property in the world, and sev-
eral other large mines of scarcely less renown for rich-
ness and profitable operation.
Prescott is essentially a mountain city. Though en-
circled by peaks that soar into the heavens, it practically
stands on a mountain top, for its elevation is 5347 feet
above the sea. Born of the gold and silver found in these
mountains, fostered by the near presence of Fort Whip-
pie, which was established to care for its pioneer miners,
and protect them from the too bold attacks of hostile In-
dians, its emblem should be the pick and shovel, gold
pan, sluice-box, Long-Tom, arrastra and tailing-dumps.
It was the richness of its mines that led to a consider-
able population ; the great forest of pine trees surround-
ing it, and the dense growth of grass that covers the
348 Arizona, the Wonderland
mesas that suggested its being named the first capital of
the Territory, for the close proximity of good forage,
abundant timber, pure water, and rich mines made it a
most desirable location, and the Territorial bill as finally
passed by Congress left the Governor free to locate the
capital by proclamation. The town was named Prescott,
after the greatest of the romantic school of historians,
thus clearly indicating that even the hard-headed miners
and the unromantic politicians recognized they were in
a country that was essentially a land of romance. The
warfare between Prescott and Tucson as the seat of the
capital was a long-sustained and fierce one, and might
have continued until this day had not a new city sprung
up upon which later comers compromised, and Phoenix
was made the new and stable capital.
But Prescott grew as its mines developed. Yavapai,
the largest of the four counties into which Arizona was
first divided, possessed the richest placer mines of Ari-
zona and Prescott was made the county seat. Year after
year Walker Creek (Lynx Creek it is now called), and
the Weaver District poured out their rich treasure of
gold dust and nuggets. In 1873 the output was known to
be over $100,000.
What years these were, too, of conflicts with the In-
dians! If a true and full history of this period could
be written, we should hear of many horrible conflicts
between small bands, or even isolated prospectors, and
Apaches, Wallapais, and a few Mohaves, for in spite of
the close proximity of Fort Whipple, the troops could
not guard every man who was determined to find gold in
the mountains. Many a government scout turned pros-
pector, and as the placer mines gave out, rich leads of
gold, silver, and copper were found and quartz mining
became active. Then vast deposits of silver were discov-
Prescott and Yavapai County 349
ered, and Prescott became almost another Virginia City.
Thousands crowded the city and covered the hillsides.
Veins of solid silver were found almost on the surface,
and a great boom sprang into existence. In 1880 Yav-
apai County's output of silver was upwards of $300,000,
and in 1883 it was nearly three times that, with growing
promises of larger things in the near future.
Yet there were no railroads. Smelters and mills of
the crudest type were hauled from the railway terminus
in far-away Kansas or came around Cape Horn by
steamer to San Francisco, and thence by way of the
Gulf of California and the Colorado River to Ehren-
burg, and then had to be freighted by mule or ox teams.
The charges were so heavy that when erected they had
cost more than their weight in solid silver. Sometimes,
when " somebody had blundered," they were never even
erected, but lay out in the sun, rain, wind and snow, and
rusted into ruin. Yet many a mine stood these heavy
drains upon their treasuries and men made fortunes.
Then came the great slump in the prices of silver and
copper, and prospectors and miners alike turned their
attention to gold. But gold ores were refractory and
had to be smelted, and smelters were not built on prom-
ises. The first gold ores of Arizona were freighted to
the Colorado River and went down that stream and
around Cape Horn in sailing vessels, and then across the
Atlantic to Swansea in the far-away British Isles, and
were smelted there — something near twenty thousand
miles from mine to furnace.
Many millions of dollars were taken out of the prop-
erties in the Congress, Octave, Crown King, Lick Hill,
Chaparral and Prescott districts. Numerous circum-
stances, the chief of which was the impossibility of
handling the complex ore to advantage in spite of their
350 Arizona, the Wonderland
richness, resulted in the closing down of most of these
properties, so that at the beginning of 1916, practically
the only big profit-earning property in the county was
the United Verde Copper mines, at Jerome, owned
by Senator W. A. Clark, which up to January of 1917,
had paid out in the neighborhood of $45,000,000 in divi-
dends, and had certainly produced more than $160,000,-
ooo of ore.
Early in 1916 the United Verde Extension, which had
been in the progress of development for twenty-four
years opened up an ore body that was wonderfully rich
in copper. Before a year had passed the management
had developed the fact that it was probably the richest
copper mine that the world has ever known, and early in
1917, the enormous quantity of rich ore had warranted
the management in starting the construction of a $2,500,-
ooo smelter and the laying of the plans for a railroad
running down the Verde Valley connecting Clarkdale
with Phoenix.
Early in 1916, the Copper Chief mine, also in the
Verde district, came into the list of profit earners.
The proving up of the enormous value of the United
Verde Extension resulted in the centering upon Jerome
the interest of investors all over the world. As a con-
sequence, early in 1917, there were twenty-two companies
doing actual mining development in that district, with
several more financed and ready to begin, and the pay
roll had reached the figure of approximately $500,000
monthly.
During this time, the properties of the Consolidated
Arizona Smelting Company at Humboldt, which had
been in the course of development for a great many
years, was also brought into the list of profit earners.
The high price of copper, resulting from the European
Prescott and Yavapai County 351
war, enabled the management to increase the volume of
ores handled by its smelter more than tenfold. While
the smelter turned out 160,000 pounds of ore per month
in 1913, the output for December, 1916, was 1,700,000
pounds.
At Crown King the fact was developed that the oil
flotation process would enable the complex ores of those
mines to be worked to advantage. This resulted in the
building of a big mill capable of handling one hundred
and fifty tons of ore per day by the Bradshaw Reduction
Company, after they had found that they could work the
tailings of the old Crown King mill and get a profit of
$4,00 per ton from the tailings alone. At Mayer the
Stoddard mines put in a mill with capacity of one hun-
dred tons per day and entered the list of profit earners.
Several other mines also became producers in the same
district.
A number of the old mines in the neighborhood of
Octave and Congress were able to secure the money nec-
essary to proceed with their development. In the south-
ern part of Yavapai County is a very rich mine — the
Monte Cristo, owned by a few individuals who have
opened up an enormous tonnage of smelting ore and have
determined the fact that their ore body, below the 1,000
foot level, is underlaid by a great mass of copper ore.
Before the year is over they will have a smelter installed.
In the extreme western part of the county where
Burro Creek divides Mohave County from Yavapai
County is the center of exploration work by the Lew-
isohn interests that by the time this book is issued will
very probably mean the building of a branch railroad
north from the Parker cut-off, or south from the Santa
Fe main line, and the building of a new town of several
thousand inhabitants.
352 Arizona, the Wonderland
The visitor to the Prescott of to-day finds an active,
bustling, progressive mining, cattle-raising, and agricul-
tural community, with practically everything that goes
to make up what is meant by the words " Modern City."
Those who laid it out saw that the streets were wide and
well-graded. Though wonderfully improved since
Capt. John G. Bourke's time, his description of it is well
worth reading to-day. He said :
" A few words should be spoken in praise of a community which
of all those on the south-western frontier preserved the distinction
of being thoroughly American. Prescott was not merely picturesque
in location and dainty in appearance, with all its homes neatly
painted and surrounded with paling fences and supplied with win-
dows after the American style — it was a village transplanted bodily
from the center of the Delaware, the Mohawk, or the Connecticut
Valley. The inhabitants were American ; American men had brought
American wives out with them from their old homes in the far East,
and these American wives had not forgotten the lessons of elegance
and thrift learned in their childhood. . . .
The Apaches had been fully as active in the neighborhood of
Prescott as they had been in that of Tucson, and to this day such
names as ' The Burnt Ranch ' — a point four miles to the northwest
of the town — commemorate attacks and massacres by the Indians.
The mail rider had several times been ' corralled ' at the Point of
Rocks, very close to the town, and all of this portion of Arizona
had groaned under the depredations not of the Apaches alone, but
the Navahos, Wallapais, and Apache- Mohaves, and now and then
of the Chemehuevis, a small band of thieves of Paiuti stock, living
in the Grand Canyon of the Colorado. . . .
Fort Whipple, the name of the military post within one mile of
the town, was a ramshackle, tumble-down palisade of unbarked pine
logs hewn from the adjacent slopes; it was supposed to 'command'
something, exactly what, I do not remember, as it was so dilapidated
that every time the wind rose we were afraid that the palisade was
doomed. The quarters for both the officers and men were also
log houses."
Like so many western cities, Prescott has had its great
fire. In 1902 most of the business houses were wiped
out of existence in a single night. But this was not an
Prescott and Yavapai County 353
unmixed evil. Before the smoke had cleared away, men
who had suffered the loss of great stocks of merchandise
were doing business in tents set along the plaza, and
before the ruins were cool, the debris was being cleared
away and material for new buildings unloaded on the
ground. There was a spirit of rivalry as to who should
put up the handsomest buildings, and the city rose out of
the ashes with new and larger beauty and went on her
way as the business and mining center of the north.
But just as, in Crook's day, the homes of Prescott de-
manded attention, so it is to-day. It is still a city of
homes. Mining-men, cattle-men, sheep-men, as well as
the professional and business men, have made of it a
most charming place of residence.
Undoubtedly climate, and its immediate and further-
away surroundings have had much to do with this, to-
gether, of course, with the business advantages that it af-
fords. Unlike Phoenix, Tucson, or any of the southern
cities of the State, Prescott has a definite and distinctive
winter climate, a real, old-fashioned, snowy climate, with
this difference, when compared with the winter climate
found in the north, middle west, or east of the United
States, that here the atmosphere is almost free from
moisture. There are none of the moisture-laden winds
from the Gulf of Mexico, or the reeking bottom-lands
of the Middle West. This low relative humidity makes
the cold of winter and the heat of summer less notice-
able. Pure, desert air from the high plateau country
is all that comes. The atmosphere is so clear that the
term " pellucid " properly applies to it. The altitude
lessens atmospheric radiation that, at lower levels, in-
tensifies the heat when the thermometer gets above ninety
degrees. It also produces a rapid throwing off of heat
from the earth as soon as the sun begins to decline, so
354 Arizona, the Wonderland
that the hottest days of summer are followed by nights
of delicious coolness. The whole country, too, is out-
side of the path of storm movement in the United States.
Being on the western slope of the Rockies it is shut away
from the storms from the north and the east. It has
never known the killing blizzards, terrific windstorms,
extremely cold winters, and distressing summer sand-
storms that so often disturb other and less favored re-
gions.
The winds that blow over Prescott, no matter in which
direction they come, have passed over the great puri-
fying laboratories of the desert that stretch out on each
side for hundreds of miles. The surrounding mountains
cool these winds and thus they add a factor of health and
comfort instead of distress. In the winter months of
November to February rain falls but little, not more
than an inch and a half per month, while there is a max-
imum of sunshine. The heavy rains come in the sum-
mer months, July and August, and these clothe the moun-
tains and valleys with great forests of pine trees, rich
grasses and exquisitely beautiful flowers, so that it would
be no misnomer to call Prescott the Mountain City of
Pines and Flowers.
There is frost as well as snow in winter, but it is dry
— as I have before explained, and as a rule, the sun
shines every day. The result is that it is no uncommon
thing to see men going about in January — the coldest
winter month — in the middle of the day in their shirt
sleeves, and women wearing the garments of summer,
though when night comes they put on their furs.
Artists rave over the glory of the clouds of Arizona,
and nowhere are they more marvellous in their attractive-
ness than around Prescott.
The result is that Prescott is already becoming the
Prescott and Yavapai County 355
great health center of the West, as the Adirondack
Mountains of New York are of the East. While it can-
not be questioned that many sufferers from tuberculosis
and other diseases of the lungs and throat recover in the
pure air of the lower levels, all the great authorities
agree that the excessive heat of summer is injurious and
the cold of a dry, winter climate is exceedingly beneficial.
The result has been the establishment of several sana-
toriums, located on the heights above Prescott, com-
pletely embowered in pine trees, and with incomparable
scenic outlooks. Here patients can sleep out of doors
with comfort every night in the year, thus inhaling, every
moment of the twenty-four hours, the health-giving, sun-
laden and pine-fragrant air. And just as cold water is
most soothing and refreshing to the fevered face, so is
this cold, pure air soothing, refreshing and invigorating
to the fevered and diseased tissues within the lungs. In-
deed, the same conditions that have made the Adi-
rondacks the Mecca of the lung-afflicted of the Eastern
States, only twice or three times multiplied, exist in Pres-
cott, and in a few short years there will be thousands of
perfectly restored former invalids singing its praises all
over the United States.
Prescott, too, is wonderfully favored in its scenic
roads. There is not one city in a thousand in the United
States that has its advantages in this regard. I know
whereof I speak. I have ridden hundreds of miles over
these roads, on bucking or gentled bronco, in buck-board,
in buggy, military ambulances and automobile. Merely
to mention the localities, while it awakens no responsive
chords in the mind of the unaware, quickens the heart to
glorious reminiscences of canyon and forest, mountain
peak and thrilling ravine, divides and crests, with out-
looks of incomparable beauty, sublimity, and grandeur.
356 Arizona, the Wonderland
There is the Inner Loop of 25 miles ; the Outer Loop of
43 miles; the Murphy Drive of 3^2 miles; Government
Springs, 8 miles; Tonto Flats, 6 miles; Ash Fork, 63
miles, where one can take in the Cathedral Caves ; Grand
Canyon by way of either Ash Fork or Williams; Camp
Verde, 44 miles ; Montezuma's Castle, one of the noted
cliff-dwellings of the Southwest, which is a little over
three miles beyond Camp Verde, and on the same trip
one may visit Stoneman's Lake and the Natural Bridge.
Flagstaff, Jerome, Kingman, Seligman, Phoenix, Wick-
enburg, are other cities, the drives to which are pictur-
esque and varied; then there are Castle Hot Springs,
Lee's Lake, Iron Springs, Crook Canyon, Wolf Falls,
Granite Dells, and close by, Thumb Butte, a striking
monument of rugged rock that towers directly over the
city.
Several of the places named above are among the won-
derlands for which Arizona is already famous, and which
the pages of this book are written to make better known.
And the roads over which one passes are remarkable in
both engineering and scenery.
Prescott has more romances than those which attach
to the Indian raids, her sensational mine discoveries, and
her political history. One of her Mayors was the famous
" Bucky " O'Neill, cowboy, . miner, statesman, orator,
promoter, literary man, and soldier. He was one of
Roosevelt's able officers during the Cuban Campaign, and
lost his life in the charge on San Juan Hill. His friend
and great admirer, Solon Borglum, one of the greatest
sculptors America has yet produced, needed little urging
by the people of Prescott to make a spirited piece of
sculpture of O'Neill as a representative rough rider.
This he did as a labor of love, the people of Prescott sub-
scribing sufficient to enable a casting in bronze to be made
BUCKY O NEIL MONUMENT, IN THE PLAZA, PRESCOTT, ARIZONA.
Prescott and Yavapai County 357
of it. This striking group now occupies an honored posi-
tion in the city plaza.
This plaza is also the site for the new quarter of a
million dollar court-house which Yavapai County is
erecting. The original intention was to make it of
pressed brick, but the contractor was induced to investi-
gate the granite of Prescott's own mountains with view
to its use instead. At first incredulous as to its quality,
repeated tests satisfied him that it was of the very highest
grade for superior building purposes, and early in 1918
the people of Prescott and the county congratulate them-
selves that they will possess one of the finest court-houses
in the Southwest.
There is another interesting feature in Prescott.
Three years ago the Chamber of Commerce secured a
fine addition to the residence section of the city, of eighty
acres, beautifully situated on the hillside, and covered
with pines, which they called Pine Crest. They then ad-
vertised that they would give a free lot, to any person, not
a resident of Prescott, who would live on it for two years,
and who would place a house on it costing at least
$350.00. City water, lights and telephones are provided,
and the lots are free from city taxes. The idea was to
induce people living in the heated valleys of the south to
come to Prescott for the enjoyment of its cool summers,
and already quite a large number have taken advantage
of the offer.
Prescott owns the only " Home for Pioneers " with
which I am familiar. There are forty-five or fifty of
those who bore the heat and burden of the early days now
cared for in their old age in this State-endowed home,
— a practical refutation, as far as Arizona is concerned,
of the aphorism that republics are ungrateful.
The Northern Arizona Fair, too, has been located per-
358 Arizona, the Wonderland
manently at Prescott. It owns its own grounds and
buildings and has already become quite an institution.
It was the seeing of the wonderful riding of outlaw and
other difficult and bucking broncos at one of these Fairs
that led Harold Bell Wright to locate the opening scenes
of his When a Man's a Man in Prescott.
The State also has one of its Experimental Farms lo-
cated a few miles from the city to give to the farmers
of this part of the country practical help in meeting the
problems of horticulture and agriculture in this region.
Farmers who come from other parts of our great country
find conditions here entirely different from those with
which they are familiar, hence the Experimental Farm
is doing an eminently practical work in showing them
how to meet and successfully overcome the difficulties
they are bound to contend with.
Thus it will be seen that Prescott is wide awake, active
and progressive. Climatically, scenically and socially it
is eminently fitted to be a home city, and a place for health
seekers, and the investor has already found it to be the
center of one of the most profitable mining regions of
the world.
CHAPTER XXVI
WICKENBURG THE CITY OF THE HASSAYAMPA
NEAR where the Hassayampa River breaks out from
its tortuous course down through the mountains and
spreads to the broad desert plains lies Wickenburg, one
of the oldest towns in Arizona, fifty-four miles north-
west of Phoenix and prominent in the history of the State
since the late 50*5, at one time having missed being the
capital of the State by only a few votes. It is at the
junction point of the Santa Fe's north and south and
California lines and a place of much importance to the
railroads, transacting an unusual volume of business.
While there are a number of ranches up and down the
river, where the ranchers avail themselves of the rich
bottom lands of the canyon, the greatest assets of the town
and the district in which it lies are its wonderful climate
and the mineral riches of the surrounding mountains.
Situated at an elevation of two thousand one hundred
feet above sea level, it escapes the intense heat of the
southern deserts and still is low enough to be free from
the winter's cold and rarified air of the greater altitudes,
resulting in a mild, equable climate the year around that
makes it an ideal resort for those afflicted with pulmon-
ary, asthmatic and nervous troubles. There are many
hundreds of people scattered over the world to-day who
are enjoying life fully restored by a remedial sojourn
in its pure, dry atmosphere. Preparations are now being
made for the building of an adequate sanatorium for the
359
360 Arizona, the Wonderland
accommodation of the many hundreds who annually seek
health here. It is a live town and its people are progres-
sive. Its well-graded streets, pleasant homes and well-
furnished stores make it a desirable residence spot. A
municipal water system supplies the town with the purest
of water, filtered through miles of natural sand filter, and
a municipal lighting system will soon provide electric
lights for both streets and homes. It is the trading
center for a wide district and a busy place at all times,
having churches, good schools, a commodious opera
house, bank, public library and most of the attributes of
the larger cities, with a happy freedom from their un-
desirable features. The attractions of the town are not
solely confined to the commercial side of life, for there
is much to attract those seeking amusement and the curi-
ous. Within a few miles are prehistoric fortifications,
hieroglyphic and picture rocks, the zanjas, or irrigation
ditches, of the tribes of long ago, the canyons breaking
out onto the desert plains where the grey blends into the
purples, and the varied flora and fauna that await every
turn. The surrounding country is a wonderland to the
dwellers of other States, for every new vista opens a
charm that is individual.
The mineral riches of the district are varied and
abundant. Platinum, gold, silver, copper, tungsten, mo-
lybdenum, vanadium, manganese and many of the rarer
metals are found, but most of the mining at present is
confined to gold, silver, copper and molybdenum in its
wulfenite form. The most famous of its mines is the
Vulture, located a few miles south of the city and in-
dissolubly connected with the earlier history of Ari-
zona. Indian raids, murders, incited by the lust for gold,
and all the romance of the frontier are so linked also with
its history that a chronicle of the first thirty years, from
VARIOUS INSCRIPTIONS AND PICTURE WRITINGS MADE BY THE PRE-
HISTORIC INDIANS OF ARIZONA.
Wickenburg 361
its discovery in 1863, would make a volume by itself.
The mine was discovered by Henry Wickenburg (who
gave his name to the town), while out hunting horses
which had strayed. At first it was but a pile of rugged
outcroppings crowning a low mound on the desert plain,
but has now been sunk to over twelve hundred feet below
the surface and is reputed to have produced upwards of
ten millions of dollars, some estimates rising as high as
twenty-seven millions. Miss Hall says the ore was " so
rich that the Mexican workmen smuggled out hundreds
of dollars every month in bits of quartz concealed in
their clothing and shoes," and McClintock says : " Miners
became wealthy by 'simply bringing away pockets or
lunch cans full of gold quartz." No matter the exact
amount, the mine has been a wonderful producer, and
doubtless has many millions yet in its maw for those who
will seek. Its history has been varied, its ore first being
hauled to the Hassayampa River where it was reduced
by arrastras. Later, at different periods, two mills were
built, one at Seymour and another at Smith's Mill on
the Hassayampa. Still later another mill was built at
Wickenburg where the great dump of many thousands
of tons of tailings may yet be seen. Finally a mill was
built at the mine and the water pumped to it from the
Hassayampa. Then wells were sunk at the mine and
ever since the ore has been reduced there.
Another notable mine is the Monte Cristo, a few miles
to the northeast, and now down over a thousand feet in
the bowels of the earth. Its many thousands of feet of
shafts, tunnels, cross-cuts and drifts have exposed prac-
tically unlimited ore of silver and copper. The Oro
Grande mine, four miles north along the Hassayampa,
has over a million tons of gold ore blocked out ready for
the mill. To the southwest are the great fields of man-
362 Arizona, the Wonderland
ganese, including thousands of acres. To the north is
the famous Congress mine, which has penetrated the
rocks by its main shaft to a depth of four thousand three
hundred feet. And so the list might go on, naming the
famous Rich Hill, with its tales of marvellous wealth,
much of it picked by hand from the surface of the ground
in the early days, covering a field that, in spite of the
work done and the riches taken out, is still virgin and
of untold possibilities for those who seek the ravishment
of Mother Earth.
At Wickenburg is located the plant of the Arizona
Sampling & Reduction Company. This is a most inter-
esting plant and means the making of mines from many
small prospects, for here the small producer may bring
his output — a sackful or a carload. Received at the
bin it is reduced, sampled by automatic machinery, as-
sayed at the company's laboratory and the producer sent
away happy in the possession of a check representing his
values, or the ore is returned to him for private ship-
ment if he so desires. Besides the sampling machinery,
the plant is equipped to treat the ores by concentration,
amalgamation, or the flotation process, and arrangements
are now being made to install a cyanide process. The
plant is well patronized and is an important feature of
the town and a strong factor in the development of the
district from a mining standpoint.
The source of the town's water supply is the Has-
sayampa River, the banks of which the town guards.
This river is one of the most famous of the West and
wherever Arizona is known so is the river. The origin
of the name is Wallapai, or Yavapai, and is made up
from Ha-ha, water: Varna, big rocks; Pa, place of:
the river of the place of big rocks. It is a small stream
except when the melting snows or the summer rains send
Wickenburg 363
it on a rampage. Yet the Arizona Society in California
calls itself the Hassayampa Society and Arizonans
everywhere are proud to be called Hassayampas.
And yet the term implies a doubt as to one's capacity
to speak the truth. The reason for that doubt is clear.
It was on the Hassayampa that, in early days, the ore
from the Vulture mine was taken to be worked in ancient
Spanish arrastras. When men went from the mines and
the arrastras into the growing towns or settlements near
by, and later into Prescott, they bragged, as men often
do, of the richness of the mines they were working.
What Miss Hall says truthfully of the Vulture mine was
enough to lead them to brag, and as these men had the
ore, or nuggets, or dust, to justify their bragging they
generally " got away, with it." But the jealous and less
prosperous of other mines and localities took it out of
the braggarts. " He's a Hassayampa " — or, in other
words, a braggart, a liar. The expression stuck, has
never been forgotten, and has now gone into history and
will forever remain as the popular state-name for an
Arizonan.
Later arrivals appearing on the scene and hearing the
general assertion that a Hassayampa could never speak
the truth, assumed that this was an old Spanish or Mexi-
can legend, hence the following lines:
" There's a legend centuries old,
By the early Spaniards told,
Of a sparkling stream that lies
Under Arizona skies.
Hassayampa is its name,
And the title to its fame
Is a wondrous quality
Known today from sea to sea.
Those who drink its waters bright —
Red man, white man, boor or knight,
364 Arizona, the Wonderland
Girls or women, boys or men —
Never tell the truth again."
But there is another and far more beautiful legend of
the Hassayampa River. It must be recognized by all
that its waters, except during the muddy flood times, are
dear, cold, and pure. A local poet has expressed the
legend in the following creditable lines :
" Beside the Hassayampa's brink,
Below the crossing, paused to drink
One who beheld as in a dream,
Ere yet he quaffed the crystal stream.
A beautous sprite which warned:
'Beware!'
" This rill so clear is fraught with care ;
No noble thought can cross yo.ur mind,
If here relief from thirst you find;
If from the sparkling tide you sip,
No truth can pass your faltering lip.
But seek above, for there indeed
The spell is changed. Allay your need
From that charmed draught; no ill can flow.
" No purpose false, no motive low,
For virtue, honor, there control,
And truth resistless fills the soul,
And whoso drinks that nectar rare
And breathes that free, inspiring air
Is thrilled with love that never dies
For Arizona's undimmed skies ;
And though he wander far and roam
Beyond the borderland of home,
His heart is never stilled, or knows
Peace or contentment or repose
Till fortune guides his steps once more
Towards Hassayampa's golden shore,"
CHAPTER XXVII
COCONINO COUNTY AND FLAGSTAFF
COCONINO COUNTY is one of the vast slices pared off
in the early days of Arizona's history from Yavapai
County — the mother of Arizona counties. Imagine an
area as large as all Vermont and all Massachusetts, with
little Rhode Island thrown in — an area across which
the Grand Canyon is cut in all its sublime glory, an area
in which stands in solemn majesty one of the most, if not
the most, beautiful and inviting mountain cluster in the
United States — the San Francisco range, 12,611 feet
above sea level — this is Coconino County.
In this county is Sunset Crater, and the vast lava-
fields, which with their outlying connections are far
larger and more wonderful than the classic lava flows of
southern France; in these are found wonderful ice-
caves, and in prehistoric times Indians made their cave-
dwellings in holes which they found almost ready-made
for the purpose. Near by are deep clefts in the earth
locally known as Bottomless Pits, made by the flowing of
the acid-charged waters which disintegrated the lime-
stone and washed it away to deeper depths, and a few
miles further on one's pathway is barred by another deep
gash in the earth — Walnut Canyon — in which are
many of the earliest cliff-dwellings made accessible to
tourists in this country of cliff-dwellings. To the east is
Black Mountain, from which one can carry away a mil-
lion tons of disintegrated lava that, to the eye of the un-
itiated, appears exactly like coarse gunpowder: and still
365
366 Arizona, the Wonderland
further is Canyon Diablo — the Canyon of the Devil —
doubtless so called by the early day pioneers, who, with
their slow going ox-teams, felt it was an invention of
the devil to retard their progress to the " glorious land of
Californy " to which they were hastening as fast as their
plodding oxen would take them. Slightly to the east and
south of Canyon Diablo is Meteorite Mountain — r it,
Sunset Crater, and the Lava Fields having already been
described in another chapter. To the north is the
Painted Desert, these Lava Fields, Black Mountain and
the rest being but outposts or sentinels, as it were, to the
land of the vivid color beyond. In the Painted Desert,
swimming like ocean birds in the blue of the pure Ari-
zona atmosphere, are the Mogollon Buttes, remarkable
basalt figures that tower 10,000 feet or more into the air.
Yonder, a little north and east, is the noted Spanish
province of Tusayan — the home of the Hopi Indians,
whose marvellous Snake Dance has attracted savants and
curious sight-seers from all quarters of the globe. Not
far from this region of marvels is the Navaho Reserva-
tion with its Monument Valley, where are rocky towers
and temples that dwarf into insignificance the figures of
the Garden of the Gods and Monument Park in Colorado.
Within a few miles is Sagi Canyon in which are found
Betatakin and Kitsiel, those astounding cliff-dwellings
first seen by a white man less than a couple of decades
ago. Here, too, close by as distances are reckoned in
this country of big distances, is Navaho Mountain.
This peak is just over the boundary line of Coconino
County, in Utah, and it overlooks what is commonly
known as the Four Corners. This is the place where
Utah, Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona meet. Here
is a radius of the wildest, most rugged, most tumbled,
rocky waste in the United States, an area half as large
Coconino County and Flagstaff 367
as the State of New York that no white man has yet ex-
plored, or even prospected. A few have seen it, fewer
still have skirted its wild edges, half a hundred, perhaps,
have dared to cross it, and one-tenth of that number have
made strenuous endeavor to find out a little more of its
marvels. Why go to Asia, or to the heights of the
Himalayas, or the Andes of the South, when here are
places that challenge the strength, the power, the endur-
ance of the explorer? And it is a region of color, too,
that surpasses the most extravagant endeavor of either
writer or painter to portray. A La Farge, a Reid, a
Moran, a Turner, a Tintoretto, a Titian, a Velasquez
aided by all the more and most daring of the modern
painters of the greatest of schools might suggest its
color extravagances, but even though the artist were to
paint it ever so well there isn't a person in the world who
would believe it meant anything real — so why imagine
the artists attempting it ?
In the eastern part of the county the Little Colorado
River flows, coming down from the far-away White
Mountains, its course beautifully lined with giant wil-
lows and cottonwoods until it reaches Grand Falls, where
it descends one hundred and twenty-five feet over the
solid cliffs, four hundred feet wide, and soon thereafter
enters a narrow, deep and abysmal canyon ere it unites
with the water of the main Colorado River.
On and near the Little Colorado many cliff-dwellings
and other ruins have been found ; indeed, these have been
made the subject of a monograph by Dr. J. W. Fewkes,
of the Smithsonian Institution, and many scores of fine
pieces of prehistoric pottery now adorn the shelves and
cases of the National and other museums collected from
this region.
Working around to the southeast one passes bridges
5-68 Arizona, the Wonderland
which have recently been constructed — and nine miles
south of Flagstaff Lake Mary is reached, a beautiful
camping and fishing rendezvous in the heart of the pines.
Still further to the south one drops over the rim of the
Mogollon Plateau and finds himself in Oak Creek, where
trout abound to the delight of the fisherman.
Twenty-three miles from Flagstaff, to the southeast, is
Mormon Lake, a fine body of water five miles long and
three miles wide.
In the next chapter, devoted to Williams, many more
interesting facts about Coconino County are related,
which have supplied the scientist and novelist with more
material than, perhaps, any other similar sized area in the
world. Within the borders of Coconino County Capt.
Clarence Button gained the major part of the material
incorporated in his Tertiary History of the Grand Can-
yon District, a heavy and ponderous tome, which, how-
ever, contains some of the most vivid and enchanting
prose-poems of powerful description in the English lan-
guage; here Major Powell gained much material for his
writings on Indians and Cliff- and Cave-dwellings, and
his trip through the " Canyons of the Colorado " natu-
rally brought him directly across Coconino County. The
great biologist, C. Hart Merriam, wrote one of his earliest
and most treasured monographs on The Biology of the
San Francisco Mountain Region, and to this day this fas-
cinating account is referred to and quoted liberally.
While the experts of the Forestry Service have found
the trees of the county a worthy subject for a large and
illuminating monograph, Professor F. L. Noble came
and studied the Grand Canyon, in the region of the Bass
Trail, and wrote his interesting bulletin entitled: The
Shinumo Quadrangle, Grand Canyon District, Arizona.
One of the professors of the Geological Survey spent
Copyright by McCullock, Phoenix, Arizona.
LAKE MARY, NEAR FLAGSTAFF, ARIZONA.
Coconino County and Flagstaff 369
some time in the Petrified Forest and has written much
and learnedly upon the Fossil Forests of Arizona. Many
scientists, also, have been interested and have written
much about the wonderful Meteorite Mountain referred
to in another chapter, and almost the entire portion of
a large folio volume was devoted by Dr. Jesse Walter
Fewkes to the Cliff-Dwellings and open ruins of the
Little Colorado River region, most, if not all, of which,
are in Coconino County.
Nor is this all: Betatakin and Kitsiel — the great
Cliff-Dwellings of the Navaho Reservation — have a
special bulletin devoted to them written by Dr. Fewkes,
and Dr. Byron Cummings, the eminent archaeologist of
the University of Arizona, has a monograph ready for
publication upon these interesting memorials of the past.
Then when one thinks of the scientific monographs of
the U. S. Bureau of Ethnology upon the Hopis and their
ceremonies, and the Navahos and their equally interesting
dances and other ceremonies, together with the mon-
ographs issued by the Field Columbian Museum of
Chicago, written by Professor George A. Dorsey, and
the Rev. H. R. Voth ; of Marah Ellis Ryan's remarkable
Love Letters of an Indian, in which a white woman
seeks to penetrate into the mysteries of a Hopi Indian's
heart experiences, and with flashes of intuition and in-
sight and a rare literary delicacy presents them to her
readers, and in addition considers the numberless maga-
zine and newspaper articles upon the Indians, their varied
ceremonials, their life, their industries, their social cus-
toms, etc., the list becomes considerably enlarged.
Then it must be noted that the pages written by Charles
F. Lummis and others, in The Land of Sunshine and
Out West, devoted to Coconino County alone, would fill
a good-sized book.
370 Arizona, the Wonderland
In addition there are the novels of Zane Grey, half
a dozen of them, referring to the region of, or contiguous
to, Coconino County, and all of which are well worth
reading. Especially worthy of note is his Last of the
Great Plainsmen, — the story of Buffalo Jones's experi-
ences on the Kaibab Plateau, on the northern rim of the
Grand Canyon, giving thrilling and exciting adventures
lassoing unusually large and ferocious mountain lions
in the tall timber and among the rugged cliffs of
that land of tumbling and gigantic rocks. I have over-
looked Kirk Munroe's fascinating novel, The Painted
Desert, and General Charles King's Sunset Pass, both
dealing with the country either in or very close to Coco-
nino County.
What, then, does this recital mean? Nothing more
than that Coconino County has been the inspiration for
a large literature, and that fact alone reveals its fascina-
tion, interest and allurement to the traveler, sight-seer,
and scientist.
The chief city of Coconino County is Flagstaff. This
is on the main line of the Santa Fe transcontinental line,
six thousand nine hundred and eighty-seven feet above
sea level, and so located that its citizens have the most
wonderful views daily of the great San Francisco peaks
that overshadow it. I have watched these mountains in
the early morning hours from the west when they were a
deep maroon, shaded here and there with the snow which
had a softening, lace-like effect. The ridges in front
were a deep greenish black, the color becoming more in-
tense, until the sun burst over the mountain's shoulder
and flooded the whole scene with its vivid morning light.
Then, through the day, I have watched change after
change, until, an hour before sunset, the eyes were daz-
zled by the glory, beauty and sublimity of the scene, the
Coconino County and Flagstaff 371
sun finally setting in a blaze of gold and scarlet, leaving
maroons, lakes, pinks, reds, and grays upon the peaks be-
hind.
Climatically, Flagstaff is highly favored. Owing to
its close proximity to the mountains it is never excessively
hot in summer. In winter it has a decided winter cli-
mate, ranging from warm to cold. At times snow falls
heavily, giving that real dash of winter feeling that stim-
ulates one to activity and vigor. In the summer months
it is especially adapted as a pleasure resort, its elevation,
its coolness, its glorious pines, its bodies of water and
excellent fishing combining attractions not dreamed of by
those who only know Arizona of the south.
The perfection of its atmosphere may well be under-
stood from the fact that when the eminent astronomer,
Percival Lowell, was looking for a site for his astronomi-
cal observatory to follow up his remarkable studies of
Mars, he finally chose the crest just overlooking Flag-
staff. There all his important telescopic observations
and photographs of Mars were made that have led to so
much discussion throughout the astronomical world, and
attracted the attention of all astronomers to Arizona and
its pine-clad city of Flagstaff.
Then, too, when it was decided to establish a State
Normal School for the northern portion of Arizona, Flag-
staff was unanimously chosen as the natural location, and
one has but to see the healthy, vigorous, robust young
men and women now taking their courses here to realize
that the choice has been perfectly justified. A more rug-
gedly healthy set of students it has never been my privi-
lege to see.
Located on the National Old Trails Highway, it is
essentially the pictorial and scenic route between the East
and the West. When Lieutenant Beale crossed the con-
372 Arizona, the Wonderland
tinent from Galveston, Texas, with his herd of camels,
just prior to Civil War times, it was over the 35th parallel,
the one practically followed by the Santa Fe Railway to-
day. One might write many pages of romantic fact
about this interesting and almost forgotten page in the
history of American transportation, when Jefferson
Davis, the Secretary of War for the Federal government,
was induced to experiment with camels as beasts of bur-
den for use over the desert areas of the West. In every
way the camels proved satisfactory as carriers. They
were able to bear heavy loads and to travel long distances
between sun up and sun set, but there were two serious
objections to them : First. They ate so much that it was
impossible to carry food for them, so they were turned
loose at night to forage for themselves. When their
drivers sought them in the morning they found the camels
had traveled such great distances that the day was gone
ere they were able to capture them and return to their
starting points. Then, second, they so dreadfully scared
the mules of the rest of the train that they would run
away, scatter the contents of their peaks over the des-
ert, and generally cause demoralization on every hand.
Hence the experiment was denounced as a failure, and
Lieutenant Beale was sent with the camels to see if they
could not be used somehow on the Pacific Coast. The
same objections held here, and the animals were finally
sold or turned loose, a solitary creature even to-day now
and then being seen by hunters in the remoter corners of
the Colorado Desert.
Travelers, therefore, whether riding on the trains or
coming in their own automobiles are on an historic and
famous road. And at Flagstaff they find a suitable radi-
ating spot for a -large number of the wonders of our
marvellous Arizona. The chief drawback is that Flag-
Coconino County and Flagstaff 373
staff has no first-class tourist hotel, and until this great
need is supplied the city must naturally suffer. Yet those
who are prepared to care for themselves should not fail
to enjoy what this region affords. For instance, who can
resist the temptation to ascend the San Francisco peaks?
One may drive half of the eleven miles to the summit,
and then ride or climb the rest of the way. On the sum-
mit, on a clear day, — and most days are clear here —
one sees two hundred miles in every direction, to the far-
away Buckskin Mountains of the Kaibab Plateau, north
of the Grand Canyon, over the Lava Fields to the Painted
Desert of the east, into the Tonto Basin and Red Rock
country and the Verde Valley to the south and southwest,
while to the west are the wonderful miles of pine-trees,
comprising the greatest untouched yellow pine forest in
the United States.
Nine miles to the east are the Cave-dwellings, where
the ancestors of the Havasupai Indians used to live,
and from which innumerable prehistoric implements and
pieces of pottery have been taken. On the second arm of
the triangle one drives ten miles to Walnut Canyon,
where the Cliff-dwellings are, passing the Bottomless Pits
on the way, and then ten miles completes the journey by
returning to Flagstaff.
Oak Creek — a most delightful resort for camping,
fishing and hunting — is but twenty miles away, while
forty-five miles brings one over the fine state highway,
to that prehistoric Cliff-dwelling, Montezuma's Castle,
and another equally interesting phenomenon, Monte-
zuma's Well, both of which are fully described else-
where.
Twenty miles to the southeast is the famous Natural
Bridge of Arizona. This was discovered by Dave
Go wan in 1873. He built a small shack there, cleared
374 Arizona, the Wonderland
off some land and planted a number of fruit trees. Ac-
cording to Garth W. Gates, in Arizona :
" For twenty-five years the whereabouts of Gowan were unknown
to his Scottish relatives, when one day in the early nineties Mr.
Goodfellow read in his copy of the Newcastle Chronicle a story by a
British traveler about a remarkable natural bridge in far-off Arizona
and of the old Scotchman who lived there. Thinking it might be
the long-lost uncle, he wrote. Months afterward came the reply and
sure enough, the Gowan of the story was the wandering kinsman.
Anxious to get back to his old life of prospecting, Gowan finally
prevailed on his nephew to take his young wife and three little chil-
dren and make the 6ooo-mile trip by steamer, rail, wagon and horse-
back that led from the quiet little Scottish home to the wild moun-
tain spot that seemingly offered so little.
Some day there will be a book written about Dave Gowan, his
adventures as a sea captain, later as pioneer Arizonan sheep- raiser
and prospector, of his work in beginning the development of the little
ranch at the bridge, of the Goodfellows, of how they came, of what
they did. There will be a chapter about the winding trail over
which the burros hauled down a board or two at a time for the little
buildings that were put up before the road was blasted out. There
will be chapters about the remarkable orchard, the delicious apples,
pears, apricots, peaches, flavored perfectly by the mile high climate.
There will be a chapter on the old-fashioned vegetable garden, and,
best of all, the old-fashioned flower beds with the hundreds of big
velvety butterflies that add another lovely touch to the fairyland
nature of the place. And the meals that Mrs. Goodfellow prepares
are famous from Roosevelt to Flagstaff, and for a wonder are really
as good as we were told they would be."
One of the Government scientists thus describes the
bridge and its origin :
" The vertical distance from the top of the bridge to the creek bed
is about one hundred and twenty-eight feet on the north and one
hundred and fifty feet on the south end. The opening beneath the
bridge averages about one hundred and forty feet in width, and the
length at the narrowest place, approximately four hundred feet. The
thickness of the arch is approximately seventy-five feet, leaving the
height of the opening beneath the arch between sixty and seventy
feet. The altitude of the bridge above the sea level is approximately
four thousand seven hundred feet. The origin of the bridge is as
follows :
Coconino County and Flagstaff 375
"Several large springs that flow into the valley from the east
side contain lime in solution, which, upon evaporation or loss of car-
bon dioxide, is deposited as travertine. For many years these springs
have been depositing travertine in an old valley of erosion cut into
red porphyry. As a result of this an almost level floor of travertine
of approximately the same height as the springs increased in width
toward the west, filling the valley until it has forced the stream
against the porphyry wall on the west side. In one place the traver-
tine was strong enough to support itself, until it was built over the
stream to the opposite side of the valley, thus forming a natural
bridge. The rock of which the bridge is composed is stalactitic in
structure and quite compact. Beneath the arch of the bridge are
several caves of considerable extent, from the roof of which hang
stalactites and from the floor of which stalagmites arise. These
caves are reached from below by ladders which have been erected
by Mr. Goodfellow, the owner of the bridge.
" The extent of the terrace above and including the bridge, is about
twenty-five acres, and is covered with a good soil which is irrigated
from the springs and produces abundant crops of fruit and alfalfa.
A small portion of the north end of the cultivated tract is apparently
not underlaid with travertine, but is formed by sediment carried in
by a small stream."
Again to quote Mr. Gates :
"The first glimpse one gets from the hilltop of the little emerald
gem of a ranch hundreds of feet below is as thrilling as it is beauti-
ful, and its charm grows as one learns the story of the bridge, the
farm and the road that winds so invitingly around the big hills. Of
the twenty-five acres in cultivation over four are right on top of
the bridge, and one walks through the alfalfa and a fine old vineyard
on the way to the trail that leads down into the canyon and under
the arch, and unless the guide has told you, the fact that you are
walking on the bridge is never suspected, for it's too big to be seen
from the top."
Flagstaff is also the natural outfitting or starting point
for the Painted Desert, the Navaho Reservation, and the
Hopis. Thousands of people have already seen the Hopi
Snake Dance, and hundreds of thousands will yet wish
to do so, as they cross the continent. On the way to the
Hopi village one may go by way of Leupp, crossing the
376 Arizona, the Wonderland
Little Colorado River on the new $45,0x30 bridge now be-
ing built by the Indian Department, and where a school
for the education of the Navahos is in active operation.
Here about one hundred and thirty of these young Be-
douins of the Painted Desert may be seen, absorbing the
knowledge of the white man, and at the same time the in-
terested visitor may see the Navahos in their summer or
winter hogans, weaving their remarkable blankets, or, if
one is fortunate enough to strike them at the proper time,
he may see their wonderful dances. Few people dream
of the fascination and thrilling entrancement of, for in-
stance, the Navaho's Fire Dance. To see twenty, thirty
naked aborigines dancing around a flaming fire of burn-
ing coals giving out so fierce a heat that an ordinary spec-
tator must stand fifty or more feet away to be able to
bear it and yet to see these natives reach down and light
wands that they are carrying in their hands — these are
astounding facts that one can scarcely believe. Then,
when this unbelievable thing has been done, they take
large handfuls of cedar bark, set fire to them, and chase
each other, until one is caught and then sponge him down
with the flaming brands, and one doubts whether he is
not hypnotized into imagining that he sees things that do
not exist. Yet a reference to the Fifth Annual Report of
the United States Bureau of Ethnology, page 442, will
reveal that what I have written here is the serious and
sober truth.
So, too, with the Hopi Snake Dance. Several of my
own trips to see this wondrous ceremonial have been
started from Flagstaff. This dance has been so often
described that to attempt it again here would be a work
of supererogation. Yet no description can ever equal
the reality, and no American should deem his education
upon his own country complete until he has seen it. Else-
Coconino County and Flagstaff 377
where in these pages a very brief and condensed account
of the dance will be found.
Flagstaff has long lacked a first-class tourist hotel, but
just as this book is going to press the agreeable an-
nouncement is made that two of Flagstaff's most solid
citizens, David Babbitt and T. A. Riordan, are about to
supply the need. Plans have been made and arrange-
ments completed for the erection of a four-storied, rein-
forced concrete structure, with white marble cement fac-
ing, to occupy the quarter block of one of the finest
streets in the city. There are to be seventy-five rooms,
each with individual bath, and the hotel will be the most
complete in northern Arizona.
A theatre capable of seating four hundred people will
be part of the same structure, so that two great needs of
this thriving community will be met at the same time.
To the west of Flagstaff, eight miles away, is Fort
Moroni, a fortress built by the Mormons to defend them-
selves from the Apaches, when, in 1880, they were on
the warpath. The Mormons had a contract to cut ties
for the new railroad, the Atlantic and Pacific — as the
Santa Fe was then known. Everything seemed to be at
peace until the report came to them that the Apaches were
killing every white man and woman they could find. Im-
mediately consternation reigned, and the Mormons gath-
ered together, retreated to this spot, built the fort, and
remained within or near its shelter until all danger was
past. This was the last raid the Apaches ever made to
the north.
It was about this time that Lieut. Charles King, now
general, was seriously wounded at Sunset Crossing, some
fifty miles or so east of Flagstaff, and the story of which
he graphically tells in one of his novels.
The principal industries of Coconino County are cattle,
378 Arizona, the Wonderland
sheep, and lumber. Over 100,000 cattle and 300,000
sheep are now roaming the ranges and day by day adding
wealth for their owners.
A feature of the cattle industry is now being made
available for the entertainment of tourists. Every Au-
gust and September there occurs the annual round-up,
where the cattle are gathered in from the ranges, sorted,
branded, and disposed of at the will of their owners.
This is a sight for a life-time, and under proper guidance
can be seen by everybody who is willing to drive out into
the cattle country. With such a guide as my old friend
Al. Doyle, of Flagstaff, women may go with perfect con-
fidence, assured that they will see one of the most fas-
cinating and thrilling sights of their lives.
The largest part of Coconino County is within the Co-
conino National Forest, and from the trees of this forest
come the logs that keep the two great lumber mills of
Flagstaff, as well as three others, in active operation.
The first and largest of these mills was started and oper-
ated for several years by Edward E. Ayer, who was aft-
erwards associated with Marshall Field in the establish-
ment of the Field Columbian Museum, of Chicago, of
which he was the president for several years.
The five mills, the other three of which are located at
Williams, Riordan and Cliffs, are now cutting 350,000
feet of lumber a day.
CHAPTER XXVIII
THE casual traveler, riding through Arizona on a rail-
way train, oftentimes passes through most romantic and
fascinating regions, but because of his want of knowl-
edge, he regards the land as dull and uninteresting. Yet
no one with an eye for beauty could regard the town of
Williams in this light. Built on the shoulders of Bill
Williams Mountain, at an elevation of six thousand seven
hundred and eighty feet above sea level ; the foothills and
mountain slopes covered with pines; with a wonderful
outlook over the great prehistoric inland sea to the very
rim of the Grand Canyon; with mountains from eight
thousand to nearly thirteen thousand feet elevation meet-
ing the eye to the east, south and west ; Nature has done
much to make the town attractive.
It will be noticed that the mountain bears the name
" Bill Williams." This was given in honor of one of
the most famous and noted of the early day Western
trappers and scouts. While not quite as well known to-
day as Kit Carson, in his day he was even more famous
than the man who accompanied Fremont on so many of
his path-finding journeys. The life-story of Williams
is one of fascination and interest, and would compare
favorably in its statement of simple facts with any of the
wildest romances written by the most imaginative of our
novelists. The mountain itself has a peculiarly rounded
summit, and the clr'ef of its two peaks is nine thousand
379
380 Arizona, the Wonderland
two hundred feet above the sea. That it is connected
with the volcanic upheavals that have made such marked
impressions upon northern Arizona is evidenced by the
presence of a great basaltic pillar or " chimney," well
below the summit, and clearly to be seen from the Santa
Fe Railway as the trains wind around towards Ash Fork.
For years a good trail has given visitors the oppor-
tunity of riding to the summit of this glorious peak, and
the making of a fine automobile road to the mountain's
topmost height is not an impossibility in the near future.
The distance from Williams to the summit by trail is only
about five miles and the ascent can easily be made on
foot or with saddle-horse any time between May first and
November first. It is such a delightful and accessible
side-trip that no visitor to Williams during the summer
should miss the opportunity. To those who are fond of
more vigorous exercise, a climb on snow-shoes or skis to
the mountain's peak during the winter season will afford
a day's sport never to be forgotten. The view from the
summit is incomparable. Let the imaginative reader
conceive of the most comprehensive survey his traveled
eyes have ever allowed him to view, and I venture the as-
sertion that nowhere in the United States can he find a
more widely expansive view than this will afford.
For a short distance after leaving Williams the trail
passes over a wooded mesa strewn with volcanic rock,
thrown out ages ago from this long extinct volcano.
Then one passes up a wild and rugged canyon through
the shaded glens of a true forest primeval. Far overhead
tower the giant pines and firs, whose sombre shades are
enlivened by an occasional grove of quaking aspen. In
the fall, after the first frosts, the foliage of this cheerful
little tree paints the mountain slopes with patches of bril-
liant yellow, in beautiful contrast to the soft, dark green
Williams 381
of the pine and fir. Finally one leaves the canyon to pass
through a mountain meadow and after another short as-
cent the lofty summit is reached.
Imagine standing upon a mountain top, a mile and
three-quarters above sea level, and then looking out over
a varied panorama, with practically unrestricted vision
over a radius of two hundred miles. It is bewildering in
its sublimity, awe-inspiring in its stupendous majesty and
uplifting in its impressive glory. To the south one looks
over the famous Verde Valley, where Jerome and Clark-
dale are located, the home of Senator Clark's wonderful
copper mine, and where the largest copper smelter in the
world is in operation. This whole valley used to be in-
fested with Apache Indians, and many of General
Crook's most famous fights and parleys with the Indians
were .held here. It was the home of many thousands
of Cliff-dwellers, for in Sycamore Canyon alone — a
miniature Grand Canyon — with narrow walls two thou-
sand feet high, whose colors are even more striking than
those of the great gorge itself, there are scores of these
dwellings that few have ever seen. Here, too, in this
same canyon, a great fight occurred between Apaches
and Uncle Sam's soldiers, in which the soldiers were
ambushed and slain, save one, who escaped to bring the
tale to his horror-stricken general. Stories like this
that Arizonans know are true give the lie to the precon-
ceived idea that Indians are not good fighters. The
headstones placed over the graves of some of these sol-
diers are still to be seen, and the place bears the name,
Battle Ridge.
Now let the eye swing around to the west. Here is
the great Chino Valley, which extends for miles west and
north, and finally leads one directly over the Wallapai
Mountains and Kingman, by Oatman, the most recent
382 Arizona, the Wonderland
boom mining-camp of Arizona, and Mattatiwiddati
Canyon — the Garden of Eden of the Wallapai Indians
— to the south rim of the Grand Canyon itself, a sweep
of country half as large as the whole State of New York.
Then the Grand Canyon! That is due north.
Glimpses of the greatest gorge known to man are had
for miles, the north wall towering over a thousand feet
above the south wall, and revealing, in its shadows and
brilliant colors, the work that the forces of erosion have
accomplished in the thousands of years of its making.
Near to it is the home of that strange tribe of Indians,
the Havasupais. They live in a canyon thirty-five hun-
dred feet or thereabouts below the level of the surround-
ing plateaus. Look! At our feet, quite close to the
town of Williams, we can see flowing water. This is
the head, or beginning, of Cataract Creek. Cataract
Creek flows in a winding, tortuous way for a number of
miles, then disappears — one of the many strange streams
of this State of wonders. One cannot conceive where it
has gone, until, in the heart of Havasu Canyon — which
used to be called Cataract Canyon — after one has gone
down a ten- or twelve-mile trail, glimpsing more stu-
pendous wonders than most people see in a lifetime, there,
to his never-to-be-forgotten surprise, the lost stream
comes to life again in a thousand springs that bubble up
out of the apparently solid sandstone rocks, at the base
of a cliff over two thousand feet high. Uniting, they
form the Havasu, — Haha, water; vasu, blue; the Blue
Water — of the Havasupai, pai signifying people.
The village of this interesting tribe begins here, and
the canyon varies in width from a few hundred feet to a
quarter of a mile, through the center of which the Hav-
asu flows. The stream is lined with such a profusion of
rank willow growth, that Lieutenant Cushing, who came
MOONEY FALLS, IN HAVASU ( CATARACT) CANYON.
Reached from Williams, Arizona.
Williams 383
to visit these people from far-away Zuni, forty or more
years ago, called them " The Nation of the Willows."
Here, in this secluded spot, nearly thirty-five hundred
feet below the plateau, this primitive people grow their
melons, beans, pumpkins, squash, onions and chili; have
their peach and fig orchards, and raise such wonderful
crops that they have even been able to win the first prizes
at the State's Annual Horticultural Fair. The reason is
clear. In their secluded canyon they have no winter,
the rocky walls act as radiators of the sun's rays day and
night, for they store the heat during the day and give
it off during the night, so that the whole canyon is one
vast nature-planned hot-house or conservatory, and the
Indians have learned to take advantage of it.
Let the eye now come back to the slope of the moun-
tain before which we stand. We are ensconced in the
shelter built by the United States Forest Service as a
lookout in connection with its organized scheme of pro-
tection against forest fires. With powerful glasses the
vigilant officer stationed here seeks to discover and locate
forest fires ere they become disastrous, for, among other
things, Williams is a great lumber-making town, and the
forests on the great plateau where Williams is situated
supply trainloads of logs daily for a modern saw-mill,
which turns out over thirty million feet of lumber a year.
Yonder is the plant to the west of the town. Here the
great logs are snaked upon the carriage and then handled
as easily as toothpicks, whirled this way and that, rushed
backward and forward, the bark ripped off, the planks
sawed, the whole operation requiring not. more than three
or four minutes. Then, after the lumber has duly sea-
soned, much of it is removed to the box factory near by.
Here it is turned into dry goods, shoe and other packing
boxes, which are sent east to the very shores of the At-
384 Arizona, the Wonderland
lantic ; boxes for meat, vegetables, and fruit, which go by
the carload to the great meat and fruit packers ; and it is
not so long since one may have seen a couple of carloads
of fruit-boxes consigned to the Cecil Rhodes Fruit Farm,
South Africa. Many thousands of feet of mining tim-
bers are sent from here for the great mines of Arizona,
and other carloads go to the Great Lakes States, to be con-
verted into doors and windows, and other factory uses.
Hence the forests that supply the raw material for this
profitable industry, which supports many of the families
of Williams, are well worth watching and guarding.
And not only is the lumber industry of great impor-
tance in the region around Williams. On the Tusayan
National Forest, in which the town is situated, there
graze, under Forest Service regulation, some twenty-five
thousand head of cattle and horses, and over seventy
thousand sheep. The income derived by the Government
from the sale of its timber and the fees charged for the
grazing of stock on this National Forest, and from the
leasing of its lands, etc., has amounted to over $50,000
per year for the past several years. To offset the loss in
taxes through these lands being held in Government
ownership, each year about one-half of the gross receipts
are returned by Uncle Sam to the State and county for
the development of roads and schools.
In these great forests the hunter finds himself con-
stantly busy. Deer and wild turkeys abound, though
they are growing shy as civilization encroaches upon
them. Mountain lion, bear, and wild-cats are not in-
frequently seen in the furthermost recesses, which, how-
ever, are easily accessible to the hunter who goes out from
Williams on horseback. In the lower country, not far
from town, the blue California quail is found in large
convoys, and the cottontails are so frequently seen that
Williams 385
the hunter soon tires of shooting them. The lions, bears,
wild cats, coyotes and cottontails are not protected by
law, but for hunting other game a license is required and
can be secured from local officers.
To the east stands that peerless monarch of Arizona's
mountains, the San Francisco range, with its three peaks,
Humphreys, Agassiz, and Fremont, towering nearly
thirteen thousand feet into the pure turquoise blue of the
sky. This is one of the most perfectly formed moun-
tains in the United States, and seen from every direction
is always beautiful as well as impressive. Swinging off
to the north a little, one sees Red Butte, known by the
Havasupai Indians as Hue-ga-da-wi-za, the Mountain of
the Clenched Fist, while the San Francisco peaks are
known as Hue-han-a-patch-a, the Mountain of the Vir-
gin Snow. Now, turning a little south of east, one's eyes
fall upon the Tonto Basin, the scene of one of the great
conflicts between the cattle and sheep men of the State,
now happily made impossible by the control of all the
government owned ranges by the Forest Service.
As we return down the trail our eyes are charmed and
our senses constantly titillated by the odors of the rich
carpet of flowers the mountain slope possesses. Else-
where I have spoken of the wealth of Arizona's flowers,
and nowhere is a greater variety to be, found than here.
The city of Williams itself bears evidence of recent
progress. It has a good water and light system, and
little by little is putting on cosmopolitan airs. As the
population increases modern necessities and luxuries nat-
urally follow. But to those who prefer health, the
freedom of the open spaces, close communion with quiet
mountains, ready and easy access to some of the greatest
natural marvels of the world, and a climate that compels
one to robustness, vigor, and the joy of life, more than
386 Arizona, the Wonderland
the extraneous refinements and debilitating luxuries of
the larger cities, Williams makes an especial appeal.
How well do I remember bringing a New York million-
aire to ride over the great plain between Williams and
the Grand Canyon. He had been suffering from hemor-
rhages, and his physician had sent him West to me. I
taught him the joy and vigor that come from sleeping out
of doors; I compelled him to work, walk, or ride ere he
could eat; I showed him the difference between a life of
false and temporary pleasure and the life of real delight
that comes from vigorous health, and after a few months
in the open air, eating, walking, riding, working, sleep-
ing, and seldom entering a house, I sent him back to a
life of new energy and happiness as the result.
When I think of the people of the East, North, and
Middle West, sweltering in the humid heat of their sum-
mers, I am compelled to thank God for the privilege I
have enjoyed for so many years of breathing the moun-
tain and pine-laden air of this region. And I often won-
der why the inhabitants of the southern part of Arizona,
who, in the summer months, flee to the cooling breezes
of the beach towns of the Pacific Ocean, do not come up
here around Williams for their holiday refreshment.
There are wonderful places for camping-out in the great
pine forests and parks, where there is everything to de-
light the eye, strengthen the body, feed the mind, and
give enjoyment to the most varied demands of one's
nature.
As a health resort for those who are suffering from
anemia, neurasthenia, or the dangerous beginnings of
throat, bronchial, or lung troubles, every word I have
written of the region around Prescott perfectly applies
here. Climatically, the two regions have much in com-
mon.
Williams 387
Naturally a progressive town like Williams has good
churches, schools, newspapers, a woman's club, a man's
association for the development of the town and its en-
vironments, movie picture shows, garages, and hotels.
In the Fray Marcos, one of the Fred Harvey system of
hotels, the exacting traveler, whether by train or auto-
mobile, is assured the best of accommodations, and there
are other less pretentious stopping places for those who
desire them.
Williams is the center of very large cattle and sheep
interests, some of the best stocked and managed cattle
ranches of the State having their headquarters here. The
placing of all the public or open ranges under the control
of the United States Forest Service has forever elimi-
nated the deadly feuds that used to rage between the cat-
tle and sheep owners. Each places his stock on allotted
ranges, uses such water as is provided, contracted for, or
owned, and the two long-antagonistic interests now find
they can work together in a state closely bordering upon
harmony.
To the traveler passing through Arizona in June or
October, nothing could be more interesting of its kind,
than for him to see a real, genuine, old-fashioned cowboy
rodeo, or round-up. To climb on to a genuine cowpony,
ride out with the boys after stock, " ride herd " at night,
help in, or watch, the processes of " cutting out," brand-
ing, etc., and then to partake in real cowboy fashion of
the food, when "cookie" yells "Take it away!" or
" Grub pile ! " after which to sit around the camp-fire
listening to yarns of wild rides, outlaw horses, great
feats of bronco breaking, or adventures on mountain or
plain, or in forest or canyon, and then to stretch out in
one's blankets under the stars — these are experiences
that can be enjoyed if one is willing to go to the trouble
388 Arizona, the Wonderland
to make arrangements beforehand. Needless is it for
me to say that one enjoying such an experience has been
singularly fortunate.
For a summer camping-place Williams is especially
well-equipped. At Coleman Lake, eight miles away over
a good automobile road, one may enjoy a summer camp-
ing vacation to the full, whether en famillc or alone.
Here tents may be put up under the pines; automobiles
parked in natural garages under the trees ; the children
can romp, climb, row, swing, fish, pick flowers, rocks, or
study the different trees, while their elders can bring in
a daily string of black bass, or a wild turkey or deer in
season, to help out the commissary department. This
lake is in the Tusayan National Forest, and the camping
facilities, sanitary arrangements, etc., are all under Gov-
ernment supervision and direction. A portion of the
shore line is to be leased for summer cottage rights, and
camping privileges are open to all.
Another delightful camping-out resort will ere long
be developed in Sycamore Canyon, already referred to.
Of course the self-dependent have been camping there
already for years, and few spots in Arizona are more
historically romantic, ruggedly wild, grandly picturesque,
and yet pastorally attractive. After an eighteen-mile
ride one reaches the rim of this miniature Grand Canyon.
It is here in the neighborhood of six miles wide and two
thousand feet deep. The canyon really heads in the San
Francisco Mountains and runs its tortuous and winding
way for about thirty miles, where it joins the Verde
River. The road strikes it about midway of its length.
Here one takes the trail to the bottom. This trail is
about a mile and a half long, and it passes through a for-
est of beautiful trees that grow straight and about twenty
feet tall, with a shiny bark almost like the manzanita, a
<
Williams 389
nut about as large as a walnut, and a leaf like the western
juniper. In the walls of this canyon hundreds of cliff-
dwellings may be seen and on some of the salient points
are buildings that appear to be fortresses, or buildings
erected for defense. There are several forms of prehis-
toric dwellings in this region that are different from those
found elsewhere in the State, and their origin and purpose
are still considered a great mystery. At one point, seven
or eight miles before reaching the Verde River, three
giant sandstone rocks stand out somewhat detached from
the main wall, and on the summit of these dwellings can
be discerned, though he would be a daring climber who,
to-day, would attempt to reach them. On nearly all the
rocky-shelves where the cliff-dwellings are found, rock
pockets for the holding of water for a few days are to
be found. Some of the dwellings have been excavated
and arrow points, spearheads, stone-axes, ropes made of
the fibre of the bear grass, or amole, sandals, ears of corn,
etc., have been collected.
In the canyon, too, are quite a number of peculiar
structures built of the chips of sandstone found at the
foot of the cliffs. They are from four to six feet wide,
and four feet high, covered with solid stone, and con-
taining nothing but charcoal (undoubtedly made from
the trees of the valley), and a ball of peculiar-looking
clay, in their center. The significance and purpose of
these pits are not understood.
It was in this canyon, too, that an ambuscade of sol-
diers took place by a band of Apaches. The latter ap-
peared to be running from the soldiers, and led them up
into the heart of the canyon; there the Indians doubled
upon the soldiers, some standing their ground, while oth-
ers climbed out of the canyon and flanked the soldiers,
falling upon them with deadly effect in the rear. Battle
390 Arizona, the Wonderland
Ridge, where this massacre occurred, leads down to Cow
Flat. The fight is said to have taken place in the late
'seventies.
The charm and beauty, as well as the rugged pictur-
esqueness of this canyon, cannot be overestimated. It is
ideal for a summer's vacation. Fruit and vegetables of
every kind can be secured from Sycamore Ranch, at the
mouth of Sycamore Canyon. There is no doubt that in
time a trip to this canyon will become one of the most
popular in Arizona, for it is so easily reached from Wil-
liams.
Another interesting place for a day's visit from Wil-
liams is Cathedral Cave. In an automobile ride of
thirty-four miles over a fine road, one reaches this cave,
now visited annually by thousands of people. Passing
through the small entrance one finds a vast chamber, with
numbers of stalactites and stalagmites, of infinite variety
of shape and size. It is a beautiful and entrancing sight.
Another wonderful trip that is regularly taken during
the summer and fall months from Williams is the ride to
the rim of the Grand Canyon and back. This circuit
covers one hundred and thirty miles, and is easily made in
the day.
But an auto ride and trip that ere long will -be one of
the most popular in the whole of the Western world is one
that is now planned by the Williams garages. One rides
out to the head of the Wallapai or Hopi trails that lead
down into Havasu (Cataract) Canyon, before described.
The head of both of these trails is now accessible to the
automobile. Here Indian ponies and guides can be se-
cured— arrangements, of course, must be made before
leaving Williams — and the descent made into the can-
yon. The ride itself is unspeakably grand, thrilling, and
sublime. Captain Bourke, who went into Havasu Canyon
Williams 391
with General Crook, thus describes one of the trails as
it was in those earlier days before modern engineering
skill had made the descent comparatively easy :
There is a trail descending the Cataract Canyon so narrow and
dangerous that pack trains rarely get to the bottom without acci-
dents. When I went down there with General Crook we could hear
the tinkling of the pack train bell far up in the cliffs above us,
while the mules looked like mice, then like rats, then like jack- rab-
bits, and finally like dogs in size. One poor mule was pushed off the
trail by another mule crowding up against it and was hurled over
the precipice and dashed into pulp on the rocks a thousand feet
below.
This trail, called by the Havasupais the Pack-a-the-
true-ye-ba Trail, is never used by the whites, indeed is
practically unknown to them, though the other three trails
are thrilling and exciting enough even to the most blase
of travelers.
The canyon itself, when the descent of the trail has
been made, is full of fascinations and wonders, for mile
after mile, each fresh turn reveals some new and striking
feature of the rocky walls, some hideous gargoyle, some
fantastic carving of wind, storm, rain, or sand, some
giant toad-stool threateningly overhanging the trail, a
thousand feet above. Then when one reaches the place
where the springs rush forth and make Havasu Creek,
and he sees the homes of the Indians, and can get glimpses
of their religious life as are afforded during their annual
Thapala, or Peach Dance, when they thank the gods for
their rich harvests, or in their weekly toholwoh, or sweat
bath ; or can hear their " Stories of the Old " told by one
of their medicine-men; then, indeed, he begins to under-
stand some of the glamour felt by all who have ever vis-
ited this interesting tribe. But this is not all that Havasu
Canyon affords. On the heights of a cliff near the
agency is the old fort of the Havasupais, where they used
392 Arizona, the Wonderland
to flee for refuge from attacks of the Apaches, and many
a story have I heard of the fierce and desperate fights
that have taken place here. On the other side of the
canyon, on the top of a twenty-five hundred foot high
cliff, and accessible only by a trail known to the leaders
of the tribe, is their emergency storage-house, where, in
the olden days of danger and constant menace, they used
to keep a supply of corn and other dried grains, seeds,
and vegetables and fruits sufficient to last them for three
years. Then below the village one comes in succession
to Havasu, Navaho, Bridal Veil, Mooney, and Beaver
Falls, five of the most enchantingly beautiful waterfalls
of the West.
Havasu Canyon is indeed the home of romance, past
and present, of scenic glories of the most rugged and the
most picturesque character, and he who fails to visit it,
when opportunity affords, deprives himself of one of the
most entrancing trips the American continent affords.
These are a few of the most interesting attractions
awaiting the visitor to Williams. If he desires a hos-
pitable climate and is a lover of all that is grand and
sublime in nature, he will find much to satisfy his desires
in and around this little town, so favorably situated in
the mountain and forest region of northern Arizona.
CHAPTER XXIX
COCHISE COUNTY
EACH year Arizona is making more and more insistent
demands upon the educated, the traveled, and the
wealthier classes of the United States. No longer can an
intelligent man speak of barren, arid, desolate Arizona,
and refer to it as the land of cowboys and unrestrained
lawlessness. It is a new and great state in the making,
and, in some portions, its progress is more than inter-
esting, it is marvelous, and well worth more than mere
passing attention. To the thousands of trans-continen-
tal travelers, therefore, who pass through with scant inter-
est and slight attention, I cry " Halt ! You are missing
something worth while. On your next trip plan a few
stop-overs at certain spots, and I venture the assertion
that you will find it greatly to your profit and satisfaction."
For instance, you are coming into Arizona on the
Golden State Limited. This brings you via El Paso
and soon after you pass into the State of Arizona, from
New Mexico, you enter Cochise County, and reach the
city of Douglas. Now look around you; the depot is
as modern and beautiful as any in New York State, in
New England, or the Middle West. You see a first-
class, well-kept hotel, a structure that would not be in-
significant in Chicago, St. Louis, Boston or New York,
and where the interior appointments and service are
equal to what one is used to in every first-class hotel
in the world. Ride around the city. It is well-laid
393
394 Arizona, the Wonderland
out, and modern in every particular. All the streets are
wide, and most of them perfectly paved, and kept in spot-
less condition. The business blocks are as good as can
be found in any city of the East with ten times its
population, and there are churches, a fine library, theaters,
public baths, club-houses, golf-links, etc., justified by
the fine residence section where scores of beautiful and
well-appointed and environed homes line the streets for
many blocks.
It is the same if one comes into Arizona over the South-
ern Pacific railway. At Bowie and Willcox, one is in the
heart of the country so graphically pictured by Stewart
Edward White in his Arizona Night's Entertainments.
Here stock of fine breed roam the hills and valleys,
feeding on the richest natural grasses known, and pas-
ture on fenced fields of alfalfa and other beef pro-
ducing fodder. These towns, though small, are rapidly
growing and their foundations are being securely built.
Churches, school- and home-life are dominant. The sa-
loon and gambling-hall are gone. Not a single note of
wild revelry is now heard from one year's end to an-
other. But the great spaces are here — one feels the
exuberant freedom of plains and mountains. The spirit
that must have animated the old Apaches and given them
their indomitable energy and courage still remains, and
one feels stimulated by the ozone of the air that comes
down, cool and pure, from the eleven thousand feet
high summits of the Chiricahua and Huachuca ranges
of mountains nearby. Here one can live in the fullest
sense of the word. One feels the thrill and interest of
life pictured by the great artist, Remington, though the
days of the warfare between Apache and white man are
gone forever.
Midway between the cities along these two lines of
£: Cochise County 395
railway — the El Paso and Southwestern and the South-
ern Pacific, both of which completely cross Cochise
County — rest Bisbee, Warren, Lowell, Tombstone,
Pearce and Kelton. It has a larger population than any
other Arizona county, with an assessed valuation so far
ahead of all the other counties as to make it the notably
wealthy county of the State.
Let us look for a few moments at the details which
go to make up this remarkable county. In size it is
but ninth in the counties of Arizona, yet it is about as
large as the two States of Connecticut and Rhode
Island combined, for it has six thousand, one hundred and
seventy square miles within its borders. It is a county
of valleys and mountains, ranging in elevation from
three thousand three hundred feet to eleven thousand
feet, a variation from the lower San Pedro Valley to
the higher summits of the Chiricahua and Huachuca
ranges of seven thousand seven hundred feet — over
a thousand feet higher in range-variation than the one
dominant peak of all the Eastern States possess — Mt.
Washington, with its six thousand and six hundred feet
of elevation.
Naturally this range of altitude materially affects the
climate, and one can have almost anything he desires
here, except the extremes of heat and cold. It is never
severely cold, though the winters are bracing and in-
vigorating, and it is never oppressively hot, owing to the
cool breezes coming down daily from the mountains
tempered by the snow that can be found there during a
large part of the year.
From the earliest history of the American in Arizona,
what is now Cochise County has been famous as a re-
markable mineral belt. Its mines are known from one
end of the world to the other. Wherever the English
396 Arizona, the Wonderland
language is spoken the story of Tombstone has been re-
counted, again and again, and the rich copper mines of
the Bisbee District are now pouring forth millions of
pounds of valuable ore annually. Indeed, when it is
realized that Arizona to-day produces thirty per cent, of
all the copper mined in the United States, and that of
this amount forty per cent, is produced in Cochise County
alone, it will be seen that one-eighth of all the copper of
the United States comes from this one county.
In addition, millions are being taken out annually in
gold, silver, tungsten and other precious metals, yet none
pretends to assert or believe that the mining industry of
the county is further along than in its cradle.
In this county, Romance and Modern Progress are
hand and glove. Every valley, foot-hill, canyon and
glade has its stories of Indians, and when one enters the
streets of Tombstone or Bisbee, or others of the older
mining camps, he sees visions of the old prospectors and
finds himself listening to the most astounding tales of
fabulous wealth " which might have been " and of hair-
raising exploits which were, and of white men's struggles
against each other which now, thank God, belong to the
days that are gone forever.
In addition to these fascinating reminders of the
past and evidences of the mining progress of the pres-
ent, when it is discovered that there lie, separating the
pine-clad mountains, the three great agricultural val-
leys of San Pedro, San Simon, and Sulphur Springs
each of them a principality itself where the most active
and progressive agricultural developments are going on,
one can begin to comprehend what I asserted in the open-
ing paragraphs of this chapter, that the intelligent trav-
eler must no longer pass through this region unaware
and unobservant.
Cochise County 397
Cochise County makes definite and positive claims upon
the attention of four classes of people. In one class
are the wide-awake, refined, cultured, observant travelers.
All such should plan, whether traveling by automobile
or rail, to stop over for a few days, at least, in any one
of the centers named. Here they will find places redo-
lent of the romance of the past, — the Indians, the old
frontier memories, when Arizona was " wild and
woolly," as the most vivid and unrestrained imagination
has printed it, the gambling dens, the shooting-affrays,
when a " man for breakfast " was a common occurrence.
Side by side is the romance of the present — the wonder-
ful mining activities; the men going up and down into
the mines; the hoisting machinery which brings up its
hundreds of thousands of tons of ore; the dumping ma-
chinery; the ore trains ceaselessly shuttling back and
forth to the smelters ; these vast roaring furnaces, which
belch forth their columns of smoke above, and pour forth
their liquid streams of incandescent metal below ; the slag
piles where molten rock lights up the night-scene with
lurid glare; the picturesque burro-trains, loaded with
wood and ore — for there are mines perched in the most
inaccessible spots on the mountain slopes, and these are
reached only by the plodding sure feet of the patient
burro. Then in the valleys one finds the same activities,
but manifested in different lines. Rigs are boring for
artesian water; modern caterpillar traction-engines are
ploughing vast fields; thousands and thousands of acres
are being planted to grains, alfalfa and vegetables, and
more thousands to hardy fruits — the most delicious
peaches, pears, apples, etc.
Then to those who enjoy the modern manifestations
of the old cowboy life, there are the annual rodeos —
or roundups of cattle from the range, but conducted now
398 Arizona, the Wonderland
under state regulations, and with as great orderliness as
a city school, except that the exuberant freedom of the
out-of-door life affects every one with happiness, spon-
taneity, glorious appetite, perfect digestion, and dream-
less sleep. Here one may learn all about " shaps " and
" caballos," and horse-wranglers, and mavericks, and the
differences between Texan and California saddles, and
the ways of the cowboys who use them. Oh, it is a pic-
turesque phase of life, yet, is that of the cowboy, and
many a city man — and woman, too, — would lose ennui
and neurasthenia and insomnia and a host of the evils
that curse our civilization, if they would but get out and
enjoy the perfect freedom of a " ride with the cow-
boys."
But, there are other real pleasures for this class of
people. I have referred to the fine hotels. Douglas and
Bisbee are already well provided with such. Tombstone
is about to build one, and the other towns are preparing
to follow suit. There are clubs for men and women,
where refined people, who are educated to the highest
eastern standards, welcome all accredited visitors, so
that all of one's comforts and amusements are adequately
provided for. Then there are rides for the automobilist
in every direction, as the chapters on Douglas, Bisbee
and Tombstone reveal.
A second class that Cochise County claims is that of
the health-seeker, whether he be rich or but moderately
provided with this world's goods. The conditions of life
here are as near perfect for helping one to recover health
as they can be found in the world. One finds pure air,
cool nights, good water, no great extremes of tempera-
ture, so that he can be out of doors day or night, winter
and summer alike, with but few exceptions. And for
those who must work while regaining their health, there
Cochise County 399
are many opportunities offered. One can go on a farm,
plough, or attend to the care of fruit trees, or ride after
cattle — and a hundred and one employments besides
lure one out to exercise in the open air, the surest and
most simple, natural and inexpensive way back to health.
The third class includes the farmer, the rancher, the
cattleman. The whole county is in the earliest stages
of its modern development. There are opportunities,
galore, for those who wish to " get in on the ground
floor."
Of the three large agricultural valleys of Cochise
County, the most easterly is the San Simon, — the first
town the Southern Pacific trains reach in Arizona being
of this same name. This is the principal town of the
valley. To the south and slightly to the west is the
Chiricahua National Forest, and northeast of the Chir-
icahua Mountains is located the town of Paradise, where
for years fine fruits and vegetables have been grown..
Until 1911, however, the major portion of the million
acres of this valley, one hundred and twenty-five miles
long and from twelve to twenty miles wide, was regarded
as arid. Then artesian water was found, and now the
upper end of the valley, east and south of Paradise, is
well settled, and below the available land is rapidly being
taken. There are three methods by which land can be
secured, viz. : by purchasing direct from the government
by means of scrip; by homesteading ; and under the
Desert Land Act.
The proved artesian area includes upwards of fifty
thousand acres of very fertile land which is rapidly be-
ing put under water for cultivation. This proved land
has all been entered and much of it patented. Already
there are in it upwards of one hundred flowing wells
and others are being drilled. The flow varies from one
400 Arizona, the Wonderland
hundred to six hundred gallons per minute according to
location and manner in which the well has been put
down.
Surrounding the artesian area there is another area
where the water rises to, or very near the surface, and
here pumping plants are installed and operated at a mini-
mum of cost. The extent of such area is as yet unde-
termined but it is certain that in it there is some land
that is yet subject to entry. Outside of this second area
considerable land that is subject to enlarged entry may
be cultivated by dry farming methods, especially adapted
for livestock ranches, of which a number have already
been established.
The Bowie Valley, to the east of San Simon, for gen-
eral purposes must be included with the San Simon Val-
ley, and in the past four years there has been great
activity here.
The San Pedro Valley lies in southeastern Arizona.
It has an average altitude of about three thousand five
hundred feet, an average width of twenty miles, and is
one hundred and twenty-five miles long. It contains an
area of twenty-four thousand square miles and there are
fully a million acres of fertile and productive lands.
The San Pedro River, which flows through it from its
rise in Mexico to where it joins the Gila at Winkelman,
affords water for abundant irrigation, when properly
conserved. Already two thousand acres of the river
bottom lands are now irrigated by gravity water through
the Benson canal, and about five thousand acres irrigated
by flowing wells and the St. David canal, which is also
gravity water from the San Pedro River. Several hun-
dred acres are being irrigated under the private system of
the Boquillas Land & Cattle Company, and fully two thou-
sand five hundred acres are being irrigated by small ditch
Cochise County 401
systems from the San Pedro River north of Benson.
This ten thousand acres is being rapidly brought into a
high state of cultivation. In addition to these irrigated
lands, some two thousand acres of mesa lands are being
very successfully cultivated under the dry farming sys-
tem.
The U. S. Government is now seriously contemplating
the conservation of the water of the San Pedro River,
near Charleston; and when this plan is consummated
most of this great valley can then be irrigated.
The largest and most populous of the valleys of Co-
chise is the Sulphur Spring Valley, extending from north
to south the entire length of the county and beyond its
confines, the upper end being located in Graham County,
while its lower end runs on down into old Mexico. In
width it has an average of more than twenty miles. It
comprises an area of about two thousand eight hundred
square miles and nearly one thousand square miles of
bordering mountainous country shed their waters into
it. It has an altitude ranging from five thousand feet
on its higher slopes to less than three thousand nine hun-
dred feet at Whitewater Draw, its lowest point. In its
southerly end is located the Smelter City of Douglas,
while to the north is Willcox, important as a distributing
point and as one of the greatest cattle shipping centers of
the State.
Less than a decade ago there were not a hundred
families engaged in agriculture in the Sulphur Spring
Valley. To-day it is dotted from end to end with pros-
perous ranch homes, its settlers run into the thou-
sands and unappropriated lands are being rapidly filed
upon.
Of the cattle industry too much cannot be said. It is
one of the quickest and surest ways to reasonable com-
402 Arizona, the Wonderland
petency for those men who are willing to endure the hard
work of riding on the open range.
The ranges on the government reserves are under the
control of the Forestry Service, which prevents over-
stocking, and the industry is now conducted as sys-
tematically as street cars are run in any well-ordered
American city. The natural grasses that abound in Ari-
zona, as I have shown in the chapter on the Flora, the
great flow of pure water from the mountains, and the
securing of artesian and other water in the valleys, to-
gether with the great growth of alfalfa and other fodder
crops suitable for winter feeds, have made the stock in-
dustry a pretty safe, and certainly profitable one.
The fourth class that Cochise County appeals to is
that of the investor — the man of means and leisure,
who seeks to put his money where it will be active in
promoting the development of this great country. He
can come and watch it grow by directing the operations
himself, and while doing so, will add years of health
and happiness to his life. For, while I have necessarily
gone over the county's resources and natural assets in a
cursory and inadequate manner, I have failed utterly in
my aim if I have not shown the receptive-minded man
that here is a county of great opportunities in a wonder-
fully varied assortment of fields.
A GROUP OF HOMES, DOUGLAS, ARIZONA.
HIGH SCHOOL, DOUGLAS, ARIZONA.
CHAPTER XXX
DOUGLAS THE SMELTER CITY OF THE GREAT
SOUTHWEST
LOCATED on the main line of the El Paso & South-
western Railway, close to the Mexican boundary, the
first city of any size reached in Arizona, Douglas comes
as a decided surprise to the wide-awake and alert Ameri-
can traveler.
Arizona a desert? He here sees modernity on every
hand, — a magnificent depot, fine surrounding grounds,
automobiles passing up and down broad, well-paved
streets which are lined with massive business blocks of
architectural pretensions and commercial qualifications
of a high order, and a hotel unsurpassed in any city west
of Chicago. Douglas at once commends itself, immedi-
ately challenges all pre-conceived ideas in regard to Ari-
zona and settles forever the idea that the wild and woolly
west is to be found within its confines.
A mile away the giant smoke-stacks of the smelters
attract attention to the chief cause of the existence of
this highly developed modern city. The mining camps
in the mountain canyons did not afford the room, the
facilities for building, the readiness of access and the
necessary supply of water and fuel for the successful and
profitable operation of the smelters. Hence a new loca-
tion was sought and found on the main line of the E. P.
& S. W. Railway, which is owned by the same corpora-
tion— the Phelps-Dodge interests — which controls the
mines.
403
404 Arizona, the Wonderland
The new city really had a great advantage in being
thus located by those who scientifically studied out the
whole question before coming to a decision. Most
Western towns are located by haphazard, by chance. If
the location be good, its citizens rejoice; if not, they
complain — but in vain. At Douglas, however, the
water, drainage, sewerage, and transportation problems
and blowing away of the smoke and fumes from the
smelters were all settled and solved before the city was
located.
Other things also were thoroughly studied, and the
wisdom shown is readily discernible now in the fact that
Douglas is the natural gateway to the southwest coast of
Mexico. The new folders of the Southern Pacific Rail-
way show an extension of their lines from Nacozari to
Guaymas and beyond, and when it is known that even to-
day the reports of the United States Treasury Depart-
ment show that Douglas is second only to El Paso, as a
port of entry on the international boundary, it will be
evident that when this contemplated extension of rail-
way is completed, Douglas will increase in size with
marvellous rapidity. Already it is the most important
trading center for northern Sonora. A large amount of
the business of its merchants is transacted with the bet-
ter class of Sonorans, whose reliability and promptness
in payment render them the finest kind of customers.
Furthermore, Douglas is on the main trunks of the
following transcontinental highways, the Borderland
Route, Ocean to Ocean Highway, Old Spanish Trail,
Southern Military Highway, Southern National High-
way, and the Dixie Overland Highway. Here are six
great automobile national and military highways focusing
upon one city, with this marvellous advantage over all
other route parallels. This is the only one that is open
Douglas 405
every day in the year. Here there is no winter, in the
way the term is understood on the central or northern
transcontinental routes. Snow is seldom seen on the
levels. While it may be found on the towering moun-
tain peaks that line the highways, clear across the State,
sending down cool and delicious breezes even in the heat
of summer and making blankets necessary for comfort-
able sleeping every night in the year, snow never remains
more than a few hours on the level.
When all these highways are in operation Douglas will
see a great influx of transcontinental travelers, for it is
a city that no one will desire to pass by. All will wish
to see its gigantic smelters. Here are a few figures that
show their enormous output. From the Copper Queen
Smelter, from March to August of 1916, the yield was
84,200,000 pounds. During the same period the Calu-
met and Arizona yielded 46,800,000 pounds, a total of
131,000,000. At the price of 25 cents per pound, this
would give a valuation of $32,000,000. One is simply
staggered at the enormity of these figures and the
gigantic amount of labor they represent. ^
The combined smelters have a payroll gjf about two
thousand men, which together with the railroad shops,
means a monthly disbursement of over $300,000.00.
The character of the smelter and railroad employees
gives to the retailer of Douglas good reason for faith in
the future of business conditions. Starting some fifteen
years ago, the smelter fires have never been permitted to
go out, and as a result have furnished a steady stream of
pay checks semi-monthly to the men.
Then, too, when one watches the development of the
smelters, realizes that hundreds of thousands of dollars
have been expended quite recently in their improvement
and enlargement, it is quite evident that the companies
406 Arizona, the Wonderland
operating them do not look for any diminution of their
business operations. Indeed, they are bound to increase.
With the introduction of new and much cheaper methods
for the reduction of ores, vast quantities of lower grades
can be profitably mined. Then, too, with an eye to the
future, the smelter companies realize that Mexican
troubles cannot last forever, and that to the south of
them lies Sonora, the richest of all Mexican States, where
millions and millions of dollars' worth of ore are await-
ing shipment to the smelters. This will come to Doug-
las, and not only that, all the supplies, etc., needed for
the development of this vast empire must be gained from
the United States, and a vast share of it will come from
Douglas.
To the north lies the vast Sulphur Spring Valley. As
I have shown in the Chapter on Cochise County, this
valley is rapidly being developed. Think what this
means to Douglas. Fruits, vegetables, berries, ere long
will be brought in daily during the season, fresh from
the gardens and fields, for the soil is as productive as
any in the f^untry. With a cold storage plant these
products cari^De kept until needed. Fresh eggs, poultry,
milk, cream and butter will all come from the same im-
mediate source of supply. Hence, it can be seen that
the people of Douglas are doing all they possibly can to
further the thorough developments of this wonderful
agricultural and horticultural area.
Climatically Douglas is ideally situated. Government
reports show that its average number of clear days an-
nually leads many of the most noted resorts of the
country with two hundred and thirty-three such days.
Its average annual rainfall is 14.39 inches, its mean
temperature in summer 80 degrees Fahr., and its coldest
45.2 degrees Fahr. At an elevation of nearly four
Douglas 407
thousand feet, it possesses all the healthful qualities of
a city purified by the aseptic properties of the surround-
ing sun-kissed plains, with the additional advantage of
the cool breezes descending from the mountain heights
during the summer.
The traveler, therefore, winter and summer alike, is
assured of a hospitable climate and an interesting city at
which to stop and rest, not only for a few hours, but for
a few days. At the Gadsden Hotel he will be surprised
to find himself quartered in a hotel as good as any he has
ever visited, though in size not quite so mammoth as
those of the great Eastern cities. Every modern luxury
and convenience is provided, and in the fine, cool, airy
dining-room quiet-footed, skilful waiters bring in food
prepared in the most approved styles, and of a variety
that satisfies the most exacting taste.
For recreation, the city offers its fine Country Club,
modern in every sense, and one's golf sticks can be used
here to as great advantage and pleasure as in California
or elsewhere.
The magnificent highways suggest rides in many di-
rections. A day can well be spent visiting Bisbee — the
Mule Gulch of the early mining days — and seeing the
wonderful mines from which ore for Douglas' smelters is
obtained. Another day of thrilling fascination may be
spent at old Tombstone, where the mine is once again
being worked. Still another day of romance and charm
will be found in visiting Fort Huachuca, where Uncle
Sam now has a large number of his soldiers quartered
in the most enchanting mountain surroundings. Then,
he who visits Douglas should not fail to go to Miller's
Canyon and Cochise's Stronghold (see chapter on Tomb-
stone) and the wonderful Chiricahua Mountains, where
less than three decades away, the wild Apache roamed
408 Arizona, the Wonderland
in his lawless fearlessness, slaying every white man,
woman and child with whom he came in contact, but
where, to-day, excellent fishing, hunting, botanizing,
geologizing, and camping out in the most delectable can-
yons and forest areas may be enjoyed. The traveler
who misses this trip deprives himself of a pleasure he
cannot know in any Eastern, Northern, Southern or mid-
dle Western country.
These, then, are some of the attractions Douglas
offers to the transient. But there are still other con-
siderations to the homeseeker. To charm of location,
scientific laying-out, and providing for the needs of the
city, abundance of city water, gas and electric light, for
lighting, heating and cooking, must be added the finest
and most modern schools known. No money has been
spared to provide the best there is for the education of
the children of Douglas. Over $300,000 have been
spent in providing scholastic facilities, and there are
eleven grade schools and one high school with an enroll-
ment of three thousand two hundred children, under the
guidance of one hundred and one of the best teachers the
trustees could hire. One of the schools is devoted to
domestic science and another to manual training.
In addition to this, the Copper Queen Consolidated
Mining Company, twelve years ago, erected and equipped
a fine library which is absolutely at the service of all
the citizens and visitors of Douglas without cost.
There are two solid and substantial banks with a capi-
talization of $200,000; a fine Country Club house and
grounds; clubs of all the leading organizations, and
seven churches, all of which possess buildings of fine
striking architecture and commodious proportions.
Another interesting feature of Douglas is that a few
blocks away from the heart of the city, to the south, is
Douglas 409
the Mexican city of Agua Prieta. Here one has a splen-
did opportunity to compare his own civilization with that
of the sister republic. Here, too, it was that in Novem-
ber of 1915, the Villistas made an attack upon the
Constitutionalists, and the evidences of that fight are still
to be seen in 1917.
One result of the recent disturbances in Mexico has
been the establishment at all important points on the
border of permanent establishments for United States
soldiers. Douglas is being fully provided for in this re-
gard, the buildings for the soldiers, in adequate numbers
for perfect protection, being now in process of erection.
Hence one may come here with the sense of perfect se-
curity either for a brief stay or for permanent residence,
feeling assured that, in either case, Douglas has much to
offer that will satisfy and delight.
CHAPTER XXXI
BISBEE, THE COPPER MINING CITY OF THE SOUTH
WHY they called them the Mule Mountains no one
knows, yet it so denominated in the bond — on the
United States maps, and when the camp was first lo-
cated, the settlement that sprang up around it was called
Mule Gulch; and near by was Mule Pass. That was in
November, 1879. At that time the mountain slopes of
the Gulch were lined with oak and other trees, f estoone'd
with mistletoe, which presented a very different sight
from what they do to-day. There were a few tents and
shacks, and in one of them lived George Warren, from
whom the town of Warren was named, Marcus A. Her-
ing, D. B. Ray, George Eddleman, and Joe Dyer. These
men had located some claims, and had smelted a little of
the ore in a primitive smelter built on the spot. As early
as August, 1877, however, Jack Dunn had located and
recorded a mineral claim in this region, and he it was
who induced Warren to go into the Gulch.
From this meager beginning has grown the world-
famous mining city of Bisbee, which, in the year 1916,
mined in the neighborhood of $57,000,000 worth of ore,
and is the home of three of the greatest copper mines in
the United States, — the Copper Queen, the Calumet and
Arizona and Shattuck. Yet, strange to say, this city is
built in the heart of a canyon in the last place in the
world that one would have imagined a city could have
been established. Quaint and peculiar, it is picturesque
in the extreme. The trains of the El Paso and South
Western Railway deposit one in the very heart of it.
410
Bisbee 411
As one steps out from the depot-platform to the main
street he finds it as narrow a spot as Wall Street, New
York, where William Street crosses it. Parallel with
the railway is one street leading down to Lowell; off at
an obtuse angle is Brewery Gulch, directly ahead is an
alley-looking opening going up hill to the Copper Queen
hotel, and to the left and separated from it by a huge
brick building, is another narrow opening and this lat-
ter is Main Street, leading up to where it branches,
one branch becoming Tombstone Street or Avenue.
Crooked as a dog's hind leg, so narrow that you wonder
that business can be done at all, the streets have been
compelled to follow the natural contours of the moun-
tain. You are really at the head of a canyon, and every
available inch of reasonably level ground has been occu-
pied, and then houses and stores, churches and Y. M.
C. A., apartment houses and hoisting-works began to
climb the mountain slopes on each side and there they
are, hanging by the eyebrows, terraced up to the stars.
Up and down the narrow streets automobiles ply in
perfect safety. There is prohibition in Arizona, hence
there are few, if any, reckless drivers. They have to be
careful or a hundred accidents would occur every hour.
Side by side with these powerful modern appliances of
conveyance a drove of laden burros come, plodding
along, patiently bearing their heavy sacks of ore, or
carrying firewood or supplies to mines. The next mo-
ment a modern, full-sized, powerfully-motored street car
comes along, with its full quota of passengers — miners
in their working garb, Mexicans with their tall som-
breros, ladies of refinement going to their club, and
gentlemen interested in mines who have just stopped
over while on their way to California, or going back to
New York.
412 Arizona, the Wonderland
Picturesque ! It is the streets of Cairo, the bustle of
Broadway, the wealth and mental activity of Wall Street,
and the primitive simplicity of the mountain mining-
camp, all combined in the lesser degree, while towering
up on either side are the slopes that lead one's eyes to the
very heavens. He who crosses the continent and fails
to see Bisbee deprives himself of one of the unique sights
of the country. The city of Bisbee with its principal sub-
urbs Lowell, Warren and Don Luis, with several smaller
suburbs, occupy only seven miles of surface, and the whole
combined area is known as the Warren District. For all
practical purposes it is one community, though Bisbee is
the only incorporated city, and has no control over the
affairs of its sister communities.
If, however, one assumes from what I have written
that Bisbee is a rough, rude, frontier mining-camp, he
must immediately get rid of this misapprehension. He
is taken to the Copper Queen Hotel, built and owned by
the great Phelps-Dodge Corporation that owns the mines,
the railway from El Paso, the smelters, etc. It is a city
hotel, — quite like Chicago or Boston or New York —
transplanted bodily to this quaint nook in the heart of
the Mule Mountains. Jostling elbow to it is a fine,
large, architecturally pleasing brick church. Skew-angu-
larly across from this is as fine a Y. W. C. A. building as
the country possesses, built as a memorial to Miss Kate
Dodge. Still higher up and curved around to the right
is a Y. M. C. A. that would be the pride of hundreds of
large cities — cities of 100,000 population — in the Mid-
dle West, were they fortunate enough to possess it.
And so it is whichever way you go. Everywhere you
are met with the most striking evidences of modernity
and progress, business enterprise and success. Here is
the great Phelps-Dodge store, where you feel at once
Bisbee 413
that you are in a gigantic establishment conducted on the
same high plane as are those of John Wanamaker in
New York and Philadelphia. Across the way is the
fine and striking building of the Bank of Bisbee, classic
in its outlines, and perfectly adapted for the bank-
ing needs of a great city. A few doors above is the
Miners and Merchants, the largest single bank in the
State.
Whichever way you turn you find Bisbee a city of sur-
prises, of the unexpected. For instance here is Brewery
Gulch — yet the city is " bone dry," the once-brewery
is now used for a restaurant, and other good and com-
mercial purposes. A little further on, hemmed as the
churchyards are in the heart of crowded London, is one
of the daintiest, prettiest, and most attractive parks imag-
inable. It used to be a graveyard, by the way, but a
few years ago the progressive citizens of this eagle's
eyrie decided to convert it into a park. The necessary
steps were taken, voluntary subscriptions solicited, to
which the mining and other companies readily and gen-
erously responded, the City Council found the balance
needed, and at a cost of over $25,000 the place, that had
always been an eyesore and a receptacle for all the old
tin cans and other trash of the neighborhood, was con-
verted into a beautiful resting place, where in the summer
the band discourses sweet music, and everybody comes to
enjoy the delicious evening air.
As you ride up Tombstone Canyon a large ecclesiasti-
cal-looking building in course of construction demands
one's whole attention. Inquiry reveals that it is a Catho-
lic Church, which however, local pride denominates a
Cathedral, and insists that ere long it will be the seat of a
bishop. It is to cost in the neighborhood of $75,000,
yet the grading upon the steep mountain side, the digging
414 Arizona, the Wonderland
of the foundations, etc., was all done by the generous-
hearted miners for the church of their faith, as a gift
of love.
In this same canyon a towering rock shoots up directly
from the roadside, like a rude monument. It is a won-
derful example of the way intrusive rocks are found
throughout this formation. Locally it is known as Castle
Rock.
As one rides higher up this canyon he sees ahead a
road of wide proportions and perfect grade, that climbs
to the stars. This is the famous prison-labor-built road
of the great Borderland Highway connecting El Paso,
Douglas, Bisbee and Tucson with the California Coast.
Our powerful car climbs the hill with ease. Soon we
leave the street of the city which has climbed along with
us to a couple of miles distance from the depot, and
now, swinging around to the right we are upon this
noted highway. It is a superlative piece of road-build-
ing, and whatever fault one may find with Governor
Hunt for his determination to enunciate his pet humani-
tarian theories, one feels that here, at least, he has made
good. Prisoners, sentenced to a life of uselessness and
brooding at the state penitentiary, were here put to work
at a useful and beneficial occupation, a work that means
much to the comfort and pleasure of the citizens of, and
visitors to, the State, and at the same time gave the
state's prisoners healthful outlet for their energies.
Miles of this fine highway were built on the way to
Tombstone, where the state's prisoners were removed,
and the city's prisoners have now taken up the work
and are carrying it along to the extreme confines of the
city's territory.
A ride over this road is one of the pleasures offered
visitors to Bisbee. To those of a romantic and his-
Bisbee 415
toric turn of mind, however, this quaint mining-camp
has several places of especial interest. It is well to
recall the fact that in the early 'eighties there were many
of the criminal element that purposely came to the active
camp of Bisbee, not only because much money was in
circulation, but it was near the Mexican border, whither
they could flee if their crimes seemed to be bringing upon
them merited punishment. In August, 1880, a murder
of a Mexican was committed above Castle Rock, the
criminal escaped, and this was but one of many similar
murders.
In December, 1883, occurred the Bisbee massacre, an
event of horror that is often narrated even to this day.
On the first of the month five strangers came to the city.
They made themselves agreeable and no one suspected
them of ulterior motives, but on the evening of the
eighth they rode masked, up the Gulch, three of them
entering the leading store, the other two remaining out-
side, as sentinels or guards. While robbing was going
on inside, the miscreants outside commanded two men
who were passing to throw up their hands and enter
the store. These men refused, one rushing into a
near-by saloon, the other dashing down the street.
Firing at once commenced. The bandits fled, but not
until they had killed the deputy sheriff, and an innocent
woman bystander who was about to give birth to a child,
and two others. A posse was organized, and a courier
sent to Tombstone, the county seat, to apprise the sheriff,
the ride of twenty-eight miles over the mountains being
made on horseback in less than two hours. In about
two weeks' time though two of the murderers had escaped
into Mexico, the whole five were captured and securely
held in the Tombstone jail. With one of the posse was
a man named Heith. He was exceedingly solicitous
416 Arizona, the Wonderland
about catching the bandits, but it was soon observed that
whenever the sheriff was anxious to follow a trail that
seemed to him to be sure, this man would lead him off in
another direction. In due time it was discovered that
this man was one of the gang, had undoubtedly planned
the " hold-up," and had guided his confederates in their
movements. He was arrested and jailed with the others.
In due time the five principals were tried and sentenced
to be hung. Keith's trial resulted in a judgment that
he be imprisoned for life. But the citizens took him
from the officers and hung him to a telegraph pole, and
on the 28th of March, 1884, the other poor misguided
wretches were officially swung into eternity upon a gal-
lows erected in the Tombstone jail yard. The scene of
the massacre is still pointed out in Bisbee. These are
but samples of the actions of the lawless days. Men
were often shot with their boots on, and it seemed in-
credible that the quiet, orderly, progressive, cultured city
of the Bisbee of to-day can be the outcome of the wild
camp that it certainly was thirty or more years ago.
Every visitor who has never inspected a mine, should
go into one or other of the famous mines of the camp.
Permits can always be obtained by reputable visitors.
Here may be seen the actual workings, with all the latest
modern appliances and inventions. There are literally
scores of miles of tunnels, with vast chambers of ore, of
wonderful variety and astonishing splendor and beauty
of color.
In the Shattuck mine is a cave of vast proportions
where stalactites and stalagmites abound. Some of the
former are several feet long and the latter assume a
multitude of forms. Bunches of white grapes, large and
small masses of familiar and unfamiliar shapes attract
the eye in every direction. On some portions of the
Bisbee 417
walls filmy silken threads seem to intermingle with white
satin-surfaced ribbons, but all thrown together in inex-
tricable confusion.
After the mines are visited a ride should be taken over
the magnificent Borderland Highway, before described,
to Tombstone. Another trip is to Ramsay's Canyon in
the Huachuca Mountains, where a dashing mountain
stream of pure water, a forest of trees and garden of
fruits and flowers make a scene that enchants the eyes
even of those who are familiar with pictures of wooded
beauty.
Mount Huachuca and Miller's Canyon are other inter-
esting spots in the Huachucas, and the hunter or fisher-
man can enjoy his chosen sport to the uttermost in these
desirable regions.
During this time the Copper Queen Hotel affords one
a delightful stopping-place to which he returns each
night with comfort.
Lowell is in reality an extension of Bisbee, while
Warren is the residence section of both. Here there is
room enough on the foothills to expand, and many ex-
quisite sites and outlooks are already occupied by fine
residences, some of which have cost many thousands of
dollars in their erection, and far more in their equip-
ment and furnishing.
To working men of the steadier class — those with
families, this district makes an especial appeal. They
are needed and welcomed. There are the best of schools
for the children, and churches, clubs, etc., for the adults,
and as good stores as can be found in any city in the
world outside of the great metropolises.
The wages paid are the highest of any camp in the
United States, the men and their employers working to-
gether for the best interests of each. Over a million
418 Arizona, the Wonderland
dollars wages a month are now being paid out by the
three leading mining companies.
Hence to tourist and pleasure seeker, workingman
and investor, Bisbee and the Warren District are pe-
culiarly attractive and should be visited by all who wish
to know Arizona as it really is.
CHAPTER XXXII
TOMBSTONE
How do certain towns, cities, or mining-camps be-
come famous easier or readier than others? It is hard
to tell! There is a psychology in names that is often
as baffling as it is fascinating to study. Tombstone,
however, is one of the mining camps of Arizona that
seemed to achieve fame at once. The very singularity
of its name attracted attention. Writers in the public
press throughout the country made jokes about it, ren-
dered it the butt of their wit, and because in the days
of its founding there were many rude, wild, and woolly
things occurring in the West, it was easy to hang them
all on to the convenient peg called Tombstone.
In location, however, this is one of the charming cities
of Arizona. It is on the lower and gentle slopes of the
range of hills bearing the same name, affording a mag-
nificent outlook over the Sulphur Spring and San Pedro
Valleys, which are bordered by the wild, rugged and
jagged peaks of the Dragoon Mountains.
The camp had its origin as follows: Early in the
summer of 1878 a detachment of United States Soldiers
were marching from Wickenburg to Fort Huachuca
(pronounced Wah-chu'ka). They were accompanied
by a prospector named Ed. Schiefflin, who was anxious
to test the reports he had heard of rich ore deposits in
the mountains of the region of the south. While the
detachment was passing through the San Pedro Valley,
Schiefflin took his burros and went up into the hills.
419
420 Arizona, the Wonderland
Hiding carefully from the Apaches, he succeeded in
finding good ore. He returned to Globe, secured a
" grub-stake," and located the wonderful mines that have
yielded millions, and are now very likely to yield more.
In a couple of years Tombstone had a population of
one thousand, and, later on, it is said to have grown to
fourteen thousand. Quite a number of mines were in
active operation and until 1890 they all remained as in-
dependent companies. But the organizing mind of Col.
A. L. Grow saw the advantages of cooperation or com-
bination, and for several years he worked to secure a
combine of all the leading properties under one owner-
ship. This was achieved in 1890 when the united
mines were sold to the Tombstone Consolidated Mines
Company, a subsidiary of the Development Company of
America. For several years operations were very profit-
able. It was the big company of Arizona.
Then, unfortunately, a heavy inflow of water flooded
the large mine, which for seven years retarded develop-
ment and swallowed up $2,500,000 advanced by the
parent company. This great drain was the chief cause
of the downfall of the Development Company.
For years, as $1,670,716 of its notes were protested,
the mine was in litigation. The town, with its wide
streets and sidewalks, large business houses and resi-
dences, became almost deserted.
Several years previous to 1914 Col. Grow was ap-
pointed trustee in bankruptcy, and he succeeded in main-
taining the property, and did the necessary annual assess-
ment work upon about eighty unpatented claims held by
the company, out of the proceeds of leases extended on
the mine. On June 23, 1914, the property was offered
at bankruptcy sale. For months before engineers had
carefully examined the mine and all pertaining to it,
Tombstone 421
and it was expected that the bidding would be lively.
But in this every one was surprised. Only one bid was
heard. It came in a firm tone : " I bid $500,000." It
was from Walter Douglas, general manager of the
Phelps-Dodge interests in Arizona. The bid was ac-
cepted by the court, and work has ever since been prose-
cuted in the thorough manner expected of this great
and successful corporation. Dr. Emil Grebe was put in
charge, and prospecting was started on the upper levels,
new spurs and increased trackage facilities were built,
and the force of men slowly enlarged until now hundreds
of men are at work, and ore valued at about $4.00 is
being economically handled and treated.
The first mine located in Tombstone was called the
" Ground Hog." It never amounted to anything. A
second one, three miles away, was called the " Lucky
Cuss," and did not belie its name. Its first assay revealed
a value of ore worth $2,200 a ton, and a little later on,
ore was taken out that assayed $9,000 per ton.
There were several. mines located in the district before
a name for it was chosen, and someone — with grim
western humor — suggested Tombstone, and such it
has been ever since.
It was a fairly wild camp in its early days, but not as
rough as its neighbors Bisbee, Fairbanks and Charles-
ton. Yet owing to the rude humor provoked by its
name it attracted attention. One of its own newspaper
men, a genius in the ruder kind of fun, started an occa-
sional paper which he called the Arizona Kicker. This
was quoted from all over the English-speaking world,
and many an editor took it seriously, utterly failing to
see the joke of it.
Then Alfred Henry Lewis came along, and with that
weird, brilliant and vivid imagination of his made it
422 Arizona, the Wonderland
the scene of his " Wolfville Stories." That naturally
added to its fame. In the meantime, the mine and mill
were grinding out silver and gold which totalled up
through the years until it is no fiction to assert that
scores of millions have been taken from the Tombstone
mines.
But it has not all been good fortune at Tombstone.
Mines have their ups and downs as well as men, and
Tombstone has been no exception. Though the Schief-
flins and Gird sold their respective interests for a mil-
lion dollars each, the purchasers ultimately, in going to
deeper levels, encountered water which flowed in so
rapidly as practically to drown them out. An immense
pump of the Cornish type, with a great wooden pumping-
rod, and a massive walking-beam that reared about
thirty feet above the foundation was set up, and though
similar pumps had done excellent service in Virginia
City, Nevada, this was not found adequate to the work
here, and the $300,000 of its cost was practically lost.
When a fire destroyed the surface buildings of the mine
the pump remained, and it was exposed to the elements
for twenty-five years or more before it was finally dis-
mantled and disposed of.
Litigation also has had its share in holding back
the Tombstone mines, and for many years they were in
the hands of a receiver. In June, 1914, the Phelps-
Dodge Company bought the whole property of the Tomb-
stone Consolidated Mine Company for $500,000. Work
is now resumed, but in the most conservative manner.
Yet the rejuvenation of the old camp has begun, and it
will not be long ere it will hold an importance as strik-
ing as ever in the mining world.
But I venture a prophecy on a somewhat different
line for Tombstone. It is directly on the Borderland
Tombstone 423
Highway — the great Southern Railway reaching from
El Paso to Los Angeles. It is so picturesquely situated
that thousands and thousands will be attracted to it as
they ride across to or from California. They will de-
sire to see the place of so much romance. A good hotel
for the most exacting tourist travel will be erected and
managed in the manner pleasing to the travelers' tastes.
Meals will be served of the old Mexican and mining-
camp dishes, but in fancy and de luxe style. The glory
of the location and its incomparable surroundings will
allure and keep people in the place. The climate will
satisfy them, as it is delightful the year around, gener-
ally speaking. It is a natural health resort, and its water
supply is the finest in Arizona. It comes from twenty-
three springs in the Huachuca Mountains, twenty miles
or more away, from an elevation of 6,100 feet. Tomb-
stone is at 4,500 feet, so the water flows into its million-
gallon reservoir by gravity and gives one hundred and
fifty pounds pressure to the square inch so that no steam
fire-engines are required in the city, the water naturally
having more than enough pressure for all fire purposes.
The water system has a romantic history. In the
'seventies there was a well-known piano manufacturer in
New York named Hale. He was in the habit of taking
a trainload of pianos, ready to set up, to a city like San
Francisco, with a number of his employees along, who
would then set up the instruments. This novel method
attracted many customers, and made Mr. Hale a great
fortune which he loved to spend in acquiring mines,
building railways, and purchasing real estate where he
deemed future towns or cities would come into existence.
He became interested in Tombstone, and was finally
induced to put in the Huachuca Water System. He
purchased enough lap-welded wrought-iron pipe in
424 Arizona, the Wonderland
Pittsburgh, Pa., shipped it by rail to Benson, and then
had it hauled by ox-teams to where it was needed.
These teams, as well as workmen who put the pipe in
place were guarded by United States soldiers, to ward
off attacks by the Apaches who were very hostile during
this period. The remarkable fact about this pipe-line
is that though it was put in in September, 1881, it has
never had a leak yet. Its original cost was $558,000.
Looking across the valley from Tombstone one sees
the forbidding walls of Cochise's Stronghold. Cochise
was the leader of the Chiricahua Apaches, with whom
Gen. O. O. Howard personally made a treaty in 1872.
Sent out by President Grant with full power to treat
with all the tribes and seek to bring them to peace he de-
termined to find Cochise, if possible, and talk him over
to a friendly relationship with the whites. He suc-
ceeded in finding Capt. Jeffords — a well known Ari-
zonan who was formerly a superintendent of a division
of the Pony Express that ran from California to the
Missouri River. Jeffords was a personal friend, indeed
a " blood brother " of the great Apache chief. By this
is meant that they had sworn brotherhood, and sealed
the oath by putting into their veins blood taken from
each other. Before he died Jeffords asserted that
Cochise had never once failed in his promises to him.
Cochise in his earlier days was friendly to the whites.
Then there came to Fort Bowie a young lieutenant,
fresh from West Point. Soon after his arrival a white
boy was stolen. The officer sent for Cochise and his
leaders to come to his tent. He there told them of the
theft, and finally accused the Chiricahua band of being
guilty of it, and declared the five of them present his
prisoners. Drawing his knife and cursing the officer,
Cochise cut his way through the rear of the tent, zig-
Photograph by Courtesy of Dr. K. H. Forbes.
THE THREE TREATY ROCKS AT WEST ENTRANCE TO COCHISE'S
STRONGHOLD, ARIZONA.
A PORTION OF COCHISE'S STRONGHOLD, NEAR TOMBSTONE, ARIZONA.
Tombstone 425
zagging his way up the hill behind to confuse the sol-
diers who were firing upon him. He escaped unharmed,
but the following morning, looking down, he saw his
four associates hanging, dead, victims to the wicked,
unlawful and murderous fury of the scoundrel white of-
ficer, who had thus violated the laws of God and man.
Cochise then and there vowed terrible vengeance, and
swore that he would kill ten white men, women, and chil-
dren for every one of his band that was slain. And only
too well did he keep his word.
It was this chief, therefore, that General Howard was
especially anxious of pacifying. At considerable risk
Jeffords took him into the stronghold, where Cochise
met him, made a treaty, and ever after lived in full accord-
ance with it. When he died he was buried in the strong-
hold, though no white has ever been informed as to where
his grave was. The site of one of his homes is now occu-
pied by Mr. John A. Rock fellow and his family, and a
visit to this romantic spot will form an epoch in the life
of many a transcontinental traveler. Autos can now go
directly to the Rock fellow residence, where saddle-horses
and guides may be obtained for a ride over the trails to
the different scenic features of the Stronghold, One of
these is the Treaty Rocks — a place where it is said that
the treaty between Gen. Howard and Cochise was made.
Another portion, the Horse Pasture, is now owned by
the Boquillas Land and Cattle Company, a corporation
practically under the control of Mrs. Phoebe A. Hearst,
the philanthropic helper of many needy and worthy stu-
dents of the University of California.
Tombstone's first newspaper — The Tombstone Epi-
taph— was started by Col. John P. Clum, afterwards
an Indian agent for the San Carlos Apaches, then a
post-office inspector, and now an eloquent lecturer on the
426 Arizona, the Wonderland
wonders, beauties, and agricultural and other possibili-
ties of the West; one of its earliest citizens was " Alec "
Robertson, the genial publisher of the best works of
California poets and others, in San Francisco, and
"Papa" Bilicke, father of Albert C. who built the
Hotel Alexandria in Los Angeles, was the builder of
The Cosmopolitan, Tombstone's first good hotel. Each
of these men could sit and talk by the hour of Apaches
and their raids and slaughters, their devilishness or good
points, the wildness, goodness and generosity of cow-
boys, miners, and soldiers; the wonderful luck of pros-
pectors. To-day, when I can get hold of Col. Clum
or Mr. Robertson, nothing delights me more than to
hear them expatiate upon the Tombstone of early days.
CHAPTER XXXIII
PHCENIX AND THE SALT RIVER VALLEY
WHEN the ancient myth-maker conjured out of the
depths of his vivid imagination the story of the phoenix,
classic bird of the ancients prior even to his time, that
it had the power inherently within itself to rise from
its own funeral pyre, he little dreamed he was prepar-
ing a name for the Capital City of the last great State
of the American United States. Unlike Tucson and
Prescott, she was not born in the early days of strife,
race-conflict, and the thrill of newly-discovered great
mines. She is a sister of the later day. The first
comers who roamed over the valley of the Rio Salado
of the Spaniards, soon found scattered here and there
the remains of a prehistoric people. Great irrigation
canal systems led from village to village, and clearly in-
dicated that a prehistoric race long before had seen and
utilized the agricultural advantages of this highly favored
region. So, when the settlers came together and de-
cided to start a city, one of them, an Englishman famil-
iar with his classics, suggested that as the new city of
the new civilization was to rise on the ruins, the ashes, of
a former civilization, he deemed Phoenix an excellent
name. The suggestion was unanimously adopted, and
Phoenix it became, and doubtless, ever will remain.
Elsewhere I have written of the dissensions that kept
Tucson and Prescott in a turmoil for two or three
decades over the location of the State Capitol. During
427
428 Arizona, the Wonderland
this time Phoenix was slowly growing in power and in-
fluence, and in due time the legislators outside the im-
mediate field of the combatants decided to put an end as
far as might be to the ancient quarrel by taking the prize
away from each. And to help certify and cement that
decision they erected a dignified and attractive State
House of the gray tufa that has contributed so much to
the fine residence sections of several Arizona cities.
When freshly quarried it is quite soft and yields itself
readily to the builder's designs, but soon after exposure
it hardens and then rings like iron under the hammer.
Phoenix, unlike most leading Arizona cities, has not de-
pended for its development upon the mining industry.
It has had the steady growth of an agricultural city.
Certainly the domain of which it is the proud mistress
is a noble one. The Salt River Valley is known through-
out the civilized world. There, according to the legends
of the Pima Indians, the battles of life were fought out
successfully by the Hokokam — the perished people —
centuries before Columbus, and here, in due time, the
white man came to face nearly the same conditions
and problems, viz., a soil as productive as that of the
Nile, a land of almost perpetual sunshine, an abundant
supply of water in the mountains, and the rivers flowing
therefrom, but — and it was this but that loomed so
largely in the eyes of the settlers — no thorough, re-
liable, adequate method of conveying the water from the
mountains and rivers to the soil, which, without it, was
practically valueless.
Accordingly, the problem of the Salt River Valley re-
solved itself into one of irrigation, and many and varied
were the endeavors to solve it. Dam after dam, canal
after canal, were built. Company after company was
organized, sometimes working in harmony, more often
Phoenix and the Salt River Valley 429
in conflict, yet all attaining with more or less success
the end desired. The first was the Salt River Valley
Canal, in 1868; then, in succession, there came the Mari-
copa Canal, in 1869; Temple Canal, in 1870; San Fran-
cisco or Wormser Canal, in 1871 ; Utah Canal, in 1877;
Mesa Canal, in 1878; Grand Canal in 1878; Arizona
Canal, in 1885. In addition, the father of present Con-
gressman Hayden, who had erected a flouring mill at
Tempe, needed a continuous flow of water, and he filed
upon the stream. Here were nine different and conflict-
ing interests requiring water from the same source.
There was bound to be friction, discontent, and open
charges of injustice, improper use of water, etc., even in
years when there was a full supply. In " short " years,
the friction became open conflict. Lands, in this hot
region, without water, were useless, but how much worse
the case when lands upon which crops or fruit trees were
planted, could secure no water. Then the situation be-
came desperate, and there is no wonder that, without
adequate storage facilities, the water users were in con-
stant conflict. Litigation began, and once started,
seemed never to cease, until in October, 1892, after pro-
longed study of the question, full examination of wit-
nesses and documents dealing with the priority of filings
and consequent rights, Judge Joseph H. Kibbey gave a
judgment in which he determined the amount or propor-
tion, of water to go to each canal company which laid
claim to it.
But, as Chief Justice Kent of Arizona declared in his
more famous decision, rendered in 1910, there was no
effective attempt made to distribute water according to
Judge Kibbey's decision. The result was further litiga-
tion. In the meantime a solution to the problem was
being worked out by the National Government. To
430 Arizona, the Wonderland
supply water for all larger storage facilities were re-
quired which no private companies could provide. The
work was so stupendous that the Government must un-
dertake it. The need for this work had been agitated
for years. Major J. W. Powell of the Geological Sur-
vey had been maturing plans, and finally, after a long
campaign of education by democrats and republicans
alike, the bill was passed, and it was the good fortune of
Theodore Roosevelt to occupy the presidential chair
when it came to the President to be signed.
One of the first great plans attempted by the newly
organized U. S. R. S. (as the Reclamation Service soon
came to be known) was the Salt River project. This
implied the construction of a great dam which should
impound the waters of the Salt and Tonto Rivers, and
also of the Verde River, the latter feature of which meant
the construction of a second dam at Granite Reef.
Practically 250,000 (a quarter of a million) acres
were to be irrigated, and the water supply required was
enormous. The history of the building of the Dam —
a road having to be especially constructed over the
mountains from Mesa to get to the site; the setting in
operation of a great cement-mill for the making of the
cement needed ; is a romance in itself. Suffice to say, it
was successfully accomplished, and as the water slowly
backed up into its new reservoir and arose higher and
higher, the site of the town of Roosevelt that had come
into existence during building operations was entirely
submerged, every outward indication of its existence
having earlier been removed to a much higher site.
Work on the Granite Reef Diversion Dam went on simul-
taneously with the work on the storage dam, so both
were ready at about the same time.
But while this work had been progressing — even be-
The Roosevelt Dam and Reservoir, Arizona.
Phoenix and the Salt River Valley 431
fore it started — it had been evident to those who were
fully aware of the situation that something must be done
to harmonize all the conflicting canal interests under one
system, one control, and at the same time so enlarge the
system as to make it several times more efficient in the
irrigation of many thousands more acres of land. It
was a gigantic task to accomplish, and called for ad-
ministrative abilities of no mean order, abilities not sur-
passed by any general who had triumphed over his
country's foes.
The administrative genius who accomplished this
work was Louis C. Hill, at that time Supervising En-
gineer of all the reclamation work of the Government
in Arizona, California and adjacent States.
In the doing of this, however, the Courts had to be
called upon again, and intermittently, for two years and
a half, testimony was taken as to the " duty " of water
and the rights of some four thousand, eight hundred
owners of, or locators upon, lands in the Salt River
Valley. The decision was rendered by Chief Justice
Kent, in March, 1910, a competent Water Commissioner
appointed in the person of Frank P. Trott, who was not
only to see that the decree was enforced, but was re-
quired to report to the Court regularly as to its prac-
tical working.
The great Roosevelt Dam was completed, the Govern-
ment's comprehensive plan of irrigation adopted, and it
is to-day in the hands of the " Salt River Valley Water
Users' Association," under whose control it will re-
main— the governmental plan being that in time the
whole original cost of the plant shall be returned to the
Reclamation Service fund to be again used for a similar
beneficent purpose elsewhere.
Does it need any gigantic intellect to prophesy what
432 Arizona, the Wonderland
the immediate result of the completion of this great work
accomplished. Hundreds, thousands of acres sprang
into cultivated life that hitherto had been the home of
the lizard, horned toad, cactus and creosote bush. Farm-
ing and agricultural activities fairly leaped into vigorous
life in a few months after they were started, for not only
do " the lands of the sun expand the soul," they also ex-
pand the soil, and the seeds in the soil when supplied
with an abundance of water.
Experiments had already been conducted by the State,
on a large scale, to determine what would best grow in
the different portions of this valley, and wise new-be-
ginners were influenced by the practical advice of the
scientists and experts.
Thousands of acres were planted in alfalfa. It is by
far the most important crop. As one travels for miles
by the side of these richly green fields he longs for an
aeroplane that he may look down upon its refreshing
beauty. All the grains, also, do remarkably well, and,
being totally independent of rain, and there being no
winter season, most farmers follow their grain crops
with a second sowing of milo maize or corn, and thus
two crops a year are obtained. Sorghum, and other
fodder crops, do equally well. The result is the valley has
become a great beef-feeding and dairy-farming country,
where large returns are expected and made from every
acre of land.
In few places in the world can dairy herds be pas-
tured in the open on green alfalfa fields twelve months
in the year. The importance of this fact to the dairy-
man can scarcely be over-estimated. Countless experi-
ments have been made elsewhere to find the proper mix-
tures of various feeds that will bring the largest return
at the least expense. Chopped dry hay, ensilage, various
Phoenix and the Salt River Valley 433
grains and grain mixtures, meal-cake, cotton seed, fodder
of corn, cane and sorghum, cactus and alfalfa meal, etc.,
have all been tried with varying success. In the Salt
River and Santa Cruz Valleys of Arizona most profitable
results have followed the turning of the stock into the
green pasture, generally dividing the fields into sections
so that one unit is growing while another is affording
pasturage.
The growth of the dairy industry will be compre-
hended from a moment's survey of the figures, January
i, 1915, there were 44,000 head of dairy cattle; January
i, 1916, this was increased to 53,000, and January i,
1917, to 81,000, with valuations respectively of $3,256,-
ooo, $4,134,000 and $6,885,000. Thousands of calves of
better breeding are coming along each year as the acreage
increases and the demand grows greater. One condens-
ing-milk plant is sending out two carloads of canned milk
daily, and the demand far exceeds the supply.
But while alfalfa growing, cattle raising, -and dairy-
farming are profitable, they are by no means all that en-
gage the attention of the Salt River Valley farmers.
The Department of Agriculture in its Bulletin 235, shows
the diversity and yet the continuity of its crops, as fol-
lows:
January — Oranges, grapefruit, lettuce, spinach, rad-
ishes, cauliflower.
February — Oranges, lettuce, beets, turnips, cabbage.
March — Strawberries, asparagus, carrots, green
onions.
April — Strawberries and mulberries, peas, cabbage,
lettuce, onions.
May — Strawberries, blackberries, plums, apricots,
peaches, green corn, squashes, new potatoes, string
'beans.
434 Arizona, the Wonderland
June — Strawberries, blackberries, figs, plums, apri-
cots, tomatoes, melons, peaches, squashes, cucumbers,
onions.
July — Apples, pears, grapes, figs, peaches, sugar
beets, cucumbers.
August — Grapes, figs, pears, almonds, peaches, chili-
peppers, egg plant, beans.
September — Dates, melons, pears, grapes, pome-
granates, peaches, chili-peppers, egg plant, potatoes, beans.
October — Dates, quinces, grapes, pears, apples,
cucumbers, squashes, string beans.
November — Dates, olives, grapes, oranges, pears,
strawberries, celery, lettuce, beans, squashes, potatoes.
December — Dates, olives, oranges, pears, celery, rad-
ishes, beets, lettuce.
This bulletin also gives verified records of the yields
per acre in various localities in the Valley and near by,
as follows :• Alfalfa hay, 4 to 8 cuts per year, 6 to 12 tons.
Alfalfa seed crop, i cut, 65 to 650 pounds. Barley,
1,800 to 2,500 pounds. Wheat, 1,500 to 2,400 pounds.
Barley hay, 4 tons. Wheat hay, 3^2 tons. Sugar beets,
9 to 19 tons. Potatoes, 3,000 to 15,000 pounds.
Watermelons, 13 tons. Dates, 50 to 250 pounds per
tree. Cabbage, 14,000 pounds. Onions, 5,000 to 20,-
ooo pounds. Tomatoes, 10,000 to 27,000 pounds.
Cantaloupes, 100 to 340 standard crates. Strawber-
ries* 3>5°° to 14,000 ^-pound boxes. Egyptian cotton
lint, 400 to 1,000 pounds. Indian corn, 2,000 to 2,800
pounds. Seedless raisins, 6,000 to 8,000 pounds.
Oranges (young trees), one-half to 5 boxes per tree.
Fruits grow, ripen and are eaten fresh from the trees
or garden every month in the year, not only in the Salt
River Valley, but throughout all the southern portions of
Phoenix and the Salt River Valley 435
Arizona. There are few countries in the world that
successfully can make this claim. Drought has been
banished by irrigation, and frosts are never so severe as
to rob its horticulturist of his crop. To find a climate
that is equable enough to grow both citrus and de-
ciduous fruits is comparatively rare, yet both grow
equally well in these favored regions.
In January the citrus crops are already largely in the
market, for they ripen here much earlier than most of
the California crops. The only places in the latter State
where oranges ripen before Thanksgiving or Christmas
are in the once desert regions of the Imperial and
Coachella Valleys, or in the Sacramento Valley, five
hundred miles north of the Mexican Boundary, but in
Arizona only the later varieties wait until after the New
Year. Early marketed fruit, when there is no competi-
tion, naturally brings a much higher price than when
the market is flooded, and the prices received by Ari-
zona growers are far higher than the average Cali-
fornia prices, and only equalled by those paid for the
fruit from the specially favored regions already
named.
Washington navels, Valencias, Jaffas, Bloods, Kum-
quats and Tangerines are all grown, with the first
named easily in the lead. In January, 1917, there were
about twelve hundred acres in bearing, and of these fully
one thousand acres were navels. The oranges pro-
duced are of delicious flavor, juicy, sweet, free from
fiber, solid, thin-skinned, of excellent color, and abso-
lutely free from all the pests that for years have so an-
noyed some of the California growers, and added to their
producing expenses.
They continue to grow through February, March and
April, while the later varieties are produced in April and
436 Arizona, the Wonderland
May. The pomelo, or grapefruit, also bears in these
early months of the year, some of them being ripe and
ready for market as early as October.
Hogs, sheep and poultry, also do wonderfully well, a
great number of the former being fattened on the pulp
that comes from the sugar mill. For the Salt River
Valley possesses one of the rare sugar-mills of the world,
in that it is kept at work throughout the year. Sugar is
made both from beets and sugar-cane.
Sugar beets thrive well in the Salt River Valley, the
climatic and soil conditions being conducive to good
growth and large sugar content. But sugar-cane thrives
equally well, hence, just about as soon as the beet crop has
been handled and converted into sugar, the cane crop
comes in, and thus the mill is kept almost continuously
at work ; a great advantage, as the plant is not compelled
to be idle, as is the case where only one kind of crop is
grown.
The latest development in the Salt River Valley on a
large scale has been that of Egyptian cotton. This, as
is explained elsewhere, has never been successfully
grown in the South, though it is a most desirable species
as its staple is longer, stronger, and finer than any other
in the market, giving a larger yield per acre and securing
the highest price. In March, 1917, the Arizona long
staple cotton was selling for 58^4 cents per lb., f. o. b.
in Valley points, cash on delivery, and the supply noth-
ing like equal to the demand.
In 1916—17 the Goodyear Rubber Co., realizing the
value of this cotton, after repeated laboratory and prac-
tical tests, purchased eight thousand acres of land, south
of Chandler, rented another four thousand acres near to
Tempe, and have since bought another eleven thousand
acres west of Agua Fria. With their immense capital,
Phoenix and the Salt River Valley 437
at the time of writing (March, 1917), they are working
an army of men and mules, with caterpillar engines,
ploughs, etc., at clearing the land, leveling, putting in
cement ditches, and putting in seed. They will plant
one thousand acres this year, and in 1918 anticipate hav-
ing the whole of their vast holdings planted to this one
kind of cotton.
A special variety, called the Pima, has been developed
in the Salt River Valley, and so wonderfully does it grow
that it seems no wild vision to prophesy that the next few
years will see the Salt River Valley one of the greatest
cotton growing regions of the United States.
Hence, with such agricultural, horticultural, stock,
dairying and other industries the Salt River Valley looks
forward to a constantly developing prosperity. As the
result of this prosperity such settlements as the noted
suburb of the city of Phoenix, known as Ingleside, are
made possible.
INGLESIDE
The " dream "of Ingleside was to make it a high-
class residence town, the Pasadena of Arizona. At the
time when he built the Arizona Canal that waters about
one hundred thousand acres of the finest of farming
land north of Phoenix, it was realized by the founder of
Ingleside that there would come a time when there
would be felt a need of some place in which to build
nice homes and a town just to live in near Phoenix, and
the site of Ingleside was selected as the most beautiful
location to be found anywhere. Ingleside is situated on
the divide between the upper and lower valleys, two hun-
dred feet higher than Phoenix and just at the foot of
that picturesque old mountain known to all as Camel-
back. On the south side of Ingleside lies the Sahuaro
438 Arizona, the Wonderland
National Park, comprising about four thousand acres
which include the Red Buttes, a very beautiful and pic-
turesque clump of red rock hills, making Ingleside en-
chanting in the beauty of its outlook as well as its loca-
tion among the oranges and olives.
It was here at Ingleside that the first orange grove
was planted in the Salt River Valley ; Ingleside has also
the Salt River Valley's oldest olive grove. It was on
a site among the orange trees that the buildings of the
Ingleside Club were set. This is a family club where
many Eastern business men come with their families to
spend the winter months. Some of these have built
their own cottages and others rent cottages, or rooms in
the clubhouse.
Phoenix, the capital and metropolitan city of Arizona,
is only nine miles away, with roads that may be called
excellent. The climate! Did not the success of the
citrus fruits speak of that, for the ripened oranges were
gathered and sold before the winter's frosts came that
sometimes nipped the oranges of the sister State. The
elevation was one thousand three hundred feet and
perfect drainage was assured, a first-class domestic water
supply was also assured ; the Arizona Canal of the U. S.
Reclamation Service — one of the largest irrigating
streams in America — brings all the water needed for
the ranches, and along its banks are enticing boule-
vards alluring the motorist and horseback rider to a
forty-mile ride within momentary sight all the time of
its cooling and refreshing waters. Half a mile away
is Camelback Mountain, the scene of Annie Fellows
Johnston's exquisite little story of In the Desert of
Waiting, and where Robber's Roost and other noted spots
suggest picnics, walks and healthfully invigorating exer-
cise.
Phoenix and the Salt River Valley 439
One winter I left New York in January where bliz-
zards, snow, ice, sleet, and icicles had nearly frozen the
marrow in my bones. I had seen hundreds, thousands,
of men shoveling snow out of the streets into wagons,
and had watched it hauled away and dumped into the
river. I had been steam-heated in imagination — while
I shivered in reality — and to such an extent of reality
that the air of the houses, rooms, halls I entered seemed
weighted down by the curses of the ages. I had suf-
fered from the vile ventilation that artificial heat seems
to engender, and shaking the snow from my hat and
overshoes, throwing the latter out of the car window
when we got fairly headed West, I breathed a sigh
of content. I was going to the wonderland of God's
choice climate — Arizona — the real, modern, western
Garden of Allah. In a few days I reached Phoenix
and was whisked out to Ingleside. There I shed all
heavy underwear and outer clothes ; dressed in the light-
est possible suits, and went out bareheaded, morning,
noon and night, in a climate that begged us to come
out into the open. It sang to us, whistled to us, cheered,
encouraged, stimulated, strengthened us. We soon be-
gan to feel the increase of the red corpuscles in the blood.
The appetite became more vigorous, robust and easier
satisfied, with that following perfect digestion that the
city epicure, feeding on heavy and highly seasoned foods
seldom knows. Sleep became more restful, more easily
obtained and absolutely dreamless, and the morning
awakening was to a richness of enjoyment, a sparkling
exuberance of life that is equaled only by the linnet, the
meadow-lark and the mocking bird.
Who would not enjoy such changes as this? And
they are to be had by every man, woman or family of
moderate means, either by purchase of Ingleside land
440 Arizona, the Wonderland
— of which there is a little left — or by a visit to the
celebrated Ingleside Club.
This unique institution is the one that attracted the
attention of that world-wide traveler, litterateur, and
statesman, Sir Gilbert Parker. What resort was there
in the four continents, five, if you please, that he had
not personally seen or been made intelligently aware
of? Absolutely none! Yet he came here, heard, saw
and was conquered. He succumbed as readily as a lady
does to a new gown that suits her in every conceivable
way. He golfed, rode horseback, played tennis, went
shooting, climbing and motoring, for as he says he found
the climate " joyously good " " with days bracing and
sunny and nights beautiful and serene."
He was charmed with the olive and orange groves
that surrounded the club-house, and lived in happy, serene,
contented peace, and when he looked upon the grow-
ing date palms, the Japanese persimmons, and a thousand
and one flowering shrubs that spoke of the semi-tropical
Orient, and then caught sight of that pure turquoise
sky that is as much the natural possession of Arizona
as it is of the Orient, all he needed was the singing of
the bul-bul, famed songster of tradition, legend, his-
tory and poetry, to feel that he was in charming Arabia,
Persia or India.
This institution, as its name implies, is indeed a fam-
ily club, giving real home comforts to those who do not
care either for housekeeping or ordinary hotel life.
All the family, from the baby to grandpa and grandma,
can be included in the membership. There are resi-
dent memberships for people whose homes are in Ingle-
side, Phoenix and nearby cities and towns and non-
resident memberships are enjoyed by many distinguished
and well-known people who live North, East and South.
Phoenix and the Salt River Valley 441
There are rooms in the club-house for those who de-
sire, and other members with their families occupy
bungalows and cottages, which are ideally located in the
orange groves.
Just as in one's own country home he grows his own
vegetables and fruits, has his own chickens which sup-
ply eggs and broilers, and cows that give a superabun-
dance of rich, pure milk, cream, butter and cheese, so
does the Ingleside Club.
Just as one goes from his own home on family pic-
nics, so he does here, for there are a score or more of
the most charming, delightful, unique and romantic
spots within easy distance, by motor or otherwise, of
the club, and those who wish to drive daily can go for
a month finding some new destination of peculiar inter-
est each day.
Of course it is not necessary to state that this is not
a sanitarium or health-resort in the ordinary and ac-
cepted sense of the terms. It is no more these, than a
good, tender, well-cooked beefsteak, a chicken or finest
vegetables and fruits are health-foods. They produce
health of the highest order — that vibrant, tingling, ra-
diant health, that makes every moment of life a joy and
a delight. So is it with Ingleside. Within its borders
are vigor, robustness, health and peace for the mere
taking.
CHAPTER XXXIV
THE REALIZED MIRAGE CHANDLER AND THE
SAN MARCOS
EVERY desert traveler early becomes acquainted with
that wonderful phenomenon of wide, unoccupied spaces
and heated atmosphere, known as the mirage. What
countless and deadly tricks has it not played upon the
forgetful or unaware ! What horrors has its fateful fas-
cinations not induced! What lives has its cunning de-
ceptiveness not lured to destruction! Yet in itself it is
beautiful and attractive, and, when one fully understands
the chimerical nature of its presentments, knows its un-
reality, yields not to its deceptive persuasiveness, believes
not its promises that will never be fulfilled, it is as harm-
less as a baby's smile.
Mirages are as many and as varied as are men. There
are thousands of different kinds or types. To merely
attempt to suggest them all is impossible. A common
form is where the shimmering sand and quivering atmos-
phere deceive the heat-exhausted and water-famished
traveler into the belief that, just ahead, lies a lake of
cool, delicious, refreshing water. How the parched lips
long for it ; how the dry tongue craves and prays for it ;
how the fainting steps awaken to new life under the
stimulus of this wicked, cruel, deceiving lie! Yet were
the traveler to be able to look upon it as it actually is —
a remarkable natural phenomenon — he could enjoy its
attractiveness and suffer no ill effects from its elusive and
evasive deceptions.
442
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The Realized Mirage 443
Then there are mirages of waving palms, tropical
gardens, towering trees, stately palaces, wide-spreading
fields of corn, of wheat, of barley, of alfalfa, where
healthy and fat cattle graze in contented security. And,
indeed, there is nothing that man has seen in actuality
somewhere, but may be reproduced in this world of heat-
distortion and mental mystification.
Was it a mirage that Dr. A. J. Chandler saw as he
stood on the foothills of one of the great ranges over-
looking the Salt River Valley ? While other people saw
nothing but ,long stretches of sandy waste, dotted here
and there with palmillo, cactus, agave and creosote-bush,
he saw green fields of alfalfa, farms, orchards, homes,
the streets of a prosperous city, and in the heart of it all
a gloriously beautiful building, not an oriental palace,
with jeweled towers, sculptured minarets, and golden
dome; not a Greek temple, adorned with masterpieces
of Phidias and Praxiteles; not a Gothic Cathedral with
towers and heaven-pointing spires; not a castle, ivy-clad
and hoary, on the banks of romantic Rhine; not an old
Jesuit or Franciscan Mission, with terraced tower and
lantern, surmounted with the Christian symbol of salva-
tion, but something that combined them all in one at-
tractive building, embowered in orange and lemon
groves, in peach and olive orchards, beautified and glori-
fied by climbing vines, and rare, delicate and odorous flow-
ers, with colors and tones of every hue from the purest
whites, creams and blues to the vivid and flaming magen-
tas of cactus and high-climbing bougainvillea. Here
were arched corridors and long shaded walks, while within
was a large patio, where palms, fountains, gorgeous-
feathered birds and handsomely-gowned women of de-
gree gave a life and reality to the scene far beyond that
of most mirages. He saw stalwart men, gathered from
444 Arizona, the Wonderland
all the great cities of the continent, riding horseback,
playing golf, and whirling to and fro in the most perfect
of automobiles; trains running to the depot, long lines
of freight cars waiting, while near by was a growing
city, peopled by happy, healthy, prosperous families,
where buoyant, merry children sang, and romped and
played as he himself had done in his far-away Eastern
home.
But this was desert. This could not be real. This
must be one of those phenomena of nature he had heard
of, read of, but never seen.
So he started to investigate. All investigations to be
thorough, take time, and he was patient, and, moreover,
had the scientific spirit. Locations were very clear in
his mind. He went direct to where he had seen irrigat-
ing canals full of the life-bringing water, and fed by
great pumps which were operated by electricity. Noth-
ing there ! A mirage ? Maybe, but there was one thing
only needful to make it a reality, — man's energy directed
by man's will. This energy sprang into being just as
the mirage had, — in a moment, in the flash of a moving
mirror in the sunlight, and the will of man set in motion
forces that soon brought the picture into actual exist-
ence. The canal led to the alfalfa fields; these to the
herds of cattle. Elsewhere the orange and lemon groves,
the peach, pear, plum, apricot, quince and nectarine or-
chards; the avenues of palms, the homes of men and
women, sprang into life. One could hear the laughter
and shouts of happy children mingling with the passion-
ate songs of the birds as they sang to their nesting
mates. Then, little by little, the mirage-palace came into
actual existence. The corridors, the patio, the fountain,
the tiled roof, and when it was completed it was not long
before the crowds assembled and peopled it, and the
The Patio and Pergola, San Marcos Hotel,
Chandler, Arizona.
The Realized Mirage 445
fame of the San Marcos began to be spread abroad in
the world.
Thus, in figures of speech, have I told the story of
Dr. Chandler's building up of the thriving and prosper-
ous town that bears his name and of the one unique hotel
of the State • — the caravanserai on the whilom-desert
that is to Arizona what Frank Miller's Glenwood Mis-
sion Inn is to California; a gathering place for men and
women of refinement, used to luxury, yet appreciative of
those larger and finer things that deserts, not cities, af-
ford.
Located twenty-three miles southeast of Phoenix, it is
no figure of speech to say that here the desert and
civilization clasp hands. For scores of miles one's eye
falls upon a landscape of the most perfect cultivation in
the world, where everything — from finest Nile cotton
and Persian date-palms to Norwegian pine and Sierra-
tamarack — grows, while, on the other hand, or beyond,
lies cactus-land, where the giant sahuaro, mesquite,
smoke-tree, chilopsis and creosote-bush lead the eye to
mountains of purple shadows, of snowy crowns and tree-
clad slopes.
It is no longer necessary to recount, as in a merchant's
inventory, the items that go to make up the perfection
of the San Marcos. It has them all, with that rare
something that one finds only in this desert region.
Granted that it is a reclaimed desert — it is still desert
in most of the things that make up the great allurement.
In addition, however, the fine roads of the Salt River
Valley give the San Marcos guest easy and ready access
to scenes of antiquity, archaeology, ethnology, romance,
tradition and history that the whole of these pages are
an inadequate endeavor to set forth. Suffice it to say,
that one can visit Cliff-Dwellings, the historic Casa
Arizona, the Wonderland
Grande ruins, painted caves, pictured rocks, Pima, Pa-
pago, Maricopa, Yaqui and Apache Indians; the Fran-
ciscan Missions of San Xavier del Bac and San Jose
de Tumacacori; the old presidio of Tubac from which
Don Juan Bautista de Anza took the colonists who
founded the city of San Francisco de Asis, the great city
by the Golden Gate; the ancient mines of the Santa Rita
Mountains made not more memorable by tradition of
Jesuits and Spaniards and the horrible attacks of re-
vengeful Apaches, than by their later yield of the pre-
cious metals; the more modern mines of Tombstone,
Miami, Globe, Ajo and Jerome and the smelter city of
Douglas; the world- famed Apache Trail with its rugged
picturesqueness and fascinating legends of the warlike
Indians after whom it is named, and its equally wonder-
ful Roosevelt Dam; while to the east are the glorious
White Mountains, and to the north the Petrified Forest,
the Lava Fields, the Grand Canyon, Havasu and Wallapai
Canyons where live the Indians of the same names.
The San Marcos is individualistic in several ways, but
in no way more so than in its possession of Bill Huggett.
Bill is a genuine product of the desert, the trail, the
mountain, the canyon, the rodeo and the forest. Like
the Grand Canyon, the Huachuca, the Apaches and the
Petrified Forest, he belongs here. You can't picture him
anywhere else. And a few years ago Bill hit upon the
happy idea of giving to the people of cities, used only
to the sky-scraping mountains, the deep abysmal can-
yons, and the populous deserts built and made by man;
to people who have lived all their lives to the hysterical
tittering of electric bells, the brassy honk-honk of auto-
mobiles, the clangor of locomotive bells, the rattling din
of surface and elevated cars, and the screech of their
wheels on the rails; to people who never drew a pure
The Realized Mirage 447
draught of desert-purified, mountain-cooled air in their
whole existence, whose horizons have ever been limited
by the box-like structures of streets — I say, Bill hit
upon the idea of giving to such people a little of the
camping-out life of the desert that made such fearless
and athletic warriors of the Apaches, and that has put
red-corpuscles again into the blood of many a man and
woman rapidly dashing grave-ward, and with a spe-
cially-equipped camping-out wagon, tents with canvas
floors, comfortable cots, cooking-outfit that enables him
to supply every reasonable and unreasonable demand,
and with saddle horses for those who want to ride he
starts out for a day, a week, a month, or six, as the
parties that engage him desire. Not a place described
in these pages but Bill will take you to — and, remem-
ber, not only is he guide and provider, but also wise
mentor and friend. He is the sage of the sage-brush,
the philosopher of cactus-land, the poet of the land of
purple shadows, and he or she who is fortunate enough
to find Bill disengaged and secures his services has
started an epoch in his life never to be forgotten.
These are some of the things that the San Marcos
has to offer, but the most important are the things that
cannot be put upon paper, the atmosphere of the place,
the homeyness, the genial characteristics of the builder
and owner, and of Mrs. Robinson, the manager, the con-
geniality of the crowds that assemble year after year.
Is it any wonder that already the hotel is much too
small for its needs ; that additional wings and bungalows
are going up and that families who never before have
lived in what one might call temporary quarters, find
themselves so happily situated that they remain for the
whole winter season, and that a year ahead of time half,
three- fourths and even more of the accommodations are
448 Arizona, the Wonderland
bespoken? No one, however skilful in the use of words,
can describe the San Marcos and Chandler. It is a bliss-
ful condition, a state of mind to be personally tasted and
thereafter forever continuously enjoyed.
CHAPTER XXXV
NOGALES AND SANTA CRUZ COUNTY
ARIZONA is a land of surprises — in its Grand Can-
yon, Petrified Forest, Snow-Clad Mountains, Pine For-
ests, Wild Game, Fishing, Flowers, Birds, White Moun-
tain Region, Canyon de Chelley and the rest. But it is
not to these natural objects alone that its surprises are
confined. Some of its cities are a great surprise, and one
of these is Nogales, the capital of Santa Cruz County.
On the border between the United States and Mexico,
most Americans think of it as a Mexican city, tumble-
down, dirty, lazy, unprogressive and possessed of the
spirit of manana and poco-tiempo. It is indeed in the
land of " to-morrow " and " in a little while," but the
spirit of active progressive Americanism has taken full
possession of it. You feel this — see it — even before
the trains of the Southern Pacific Company deposit you
at the depot, fifty yards this side of the line. For, as
you enter the environs of the city, you see a great water-
reservoir, magnificent Court House, High School, Gram-
mar School, City Hall and, on the hillsides, street after
street of beautiful residences, where trees, shrubs and
flowers of a hundred, a thousand, varieties lend added
beauty, and fine lawns fill the eye with their refreshing
green. At the depot itself, a band-stand in the heart of
a beautiful park, where there are many more fine trees
and exquisite flowers, combined with a large pool of
the rarest lotuses, lilies and other aquatic plants, give a
new surprise.
449
450 Arizona, the Wonderland
The location of Nogales is picturesque in the extreme;
the history of its being situated where it is is quite
romantic. Prior to the building of the Southern Pacific
branch line from Benson to Guaymas, Calabasas — an
old time mining-camp — was regarded as the chief city
of the region. It is ten miles north. But on the comple-
tion of the railway a city was needed on the line, and,
as rapidly as if a fairy had waved a magic wand, No-
gales came into existence.
The arroyo winds its way through a number of roll-
ing hills. On and about these the city is built. The
small fields and gardens were first cultivated on the lower
levels and homes sprang into existence near by; then,
as the city grew, the later comers built their homes on
the slopes of the beautiful hills, with small canyons
before and behind them. For health such a situation is
ideal, as there is the most complete drainage and, in addi-
tion, the breezes that come from the snow-crowned
mountain summits, which greet the eye in almost every
direction, bring purification, health and coolness on their
wings. Sanitation is assured by a modern sewer system
recently completed.
The water system of the city is perfect and complete,
coming from the gravels of the underground flow of the
Santa Cruz River, and, being pumped to the top of one
of the highest hills, it affords more than ample protection
against fire.
The general elevation of the city is about thirty-nine
hundred feet above sea level, hence it has a temperate
climate the year around. Surrounded by mountains in
every direction, towering nine thousand feet and even
higher into the perfect blue of the sky, they give a charm
to the city's surroundings, besides affording cool, aro-
matic breezes from their snow-crowned summits and
Nogales and Santa Cruz County 451
pine-clad slopes during the summer months of the year.
There being a great number of profitable mines and
many prosperous cattle ranches in the region of Nogales,
both in Santa Cruz County and in Sonora, Mexico, the
fortunate owners and their families have made Nogales
their home city. They have built many most charming
residences, thus making large and welcome additions to
the city's best kind of population. The children of these
homes have called upon the school trustees for the best
there is in education, and the result is the erection of fine
school buildings, doing as good work as can be found
anywhere in the State.
The rolling hills upon which much of the city is built
afford natural outlooks of commanding beauty, and ad-
vantage is now being taken of these to construct a fine
city boulevard, winding in, out and around the heads of
the ravines, up and down the gentle slopes, thus offering
panorama after panorama in rapid succession as one
looks first in one direction and then the other.
Being directly upon the boundary line, there is one
wide street, on one side of which is Mexico, on the other
the United States. A trip to the other side is always
interesting and illuminative. Here stands the soldier of
Uncle Sam in his neat, well-fitting, olive-colored uni-
form, trained and disciplined to a true soldier-like bear-
ing. Fifty feet away stands the Mexican soldier, rag-
ged, unclean and unkempt, as if typifying in himself the
present state of his unhappy and unfortunate country.
Here is the market to which vegetables and fruits of
every kind from the wonderful storehouse of Sonora
are brought. In normal conditions, this one market is
a revelation of Sonera's future possibilities, which the
ordinary American has never conceived. Then, too, he
will be surprised to see the fine new school building
452 Arizona, the Wonderland
erected on the Mexican side, showing the earnest desire
some of the leaders of Mexico have in the educational
advancement of their children.
Historically, this is one of the most interesting por-
tions of Arizona. Nogales was the natural gateway
through which the old Spaniards came into the Santa
Cruz Valley — first the missionaries and then the miners.
When one thinks of that great burst of religious enthusi-
asm which took possession of the Spaniards soon after
America was discovered he cannot help but be amazed
at its power and fervor. Was there ever known a
greater religious movement than that which sent Jesuits,
Franciscans and Dominicans in a perfect flood over the
whole of the newly-discovered America? Mexico, the
Central American countries, Peru, Brazil and all the
populous South American countries felt the power and
thrill not only of the gold- fame- and power-lustful con-
quistadores but of the passionate devotion to God and
heathen humanity manifested by the followers of Igna-
tius Loyola, St. Francis, St. Dominic and other fathers
of the Catholic Church. One of the chief of these was a
German by birth, named Kuhn. At Hala he was taken
seriously ill, and when supposed to be at the point of
death made a vow to his patron Saint, Francisco Xavier,
that should he recover he would devote the rest of his
life as a missionary to the Indians of the new lands.
Unlike many who make such vows, he was desperately
in earnest and therefore, when he arose from his sick
bed, he immediately proceeded to carry it out. Declining
a professorship offered him by the college at Ingolstadt,
he crossed the Pacific and, having entered the ranks of
the Jesuits, was put in charge of the religious portion of
the expedition of Admiral Isidro Otondo y Antillon,
which, in 1683, started to take active possession of Lower
Nogales and Santa Cruz County 453
California. On their arrival at La Paz a church was
erected, and Kuhn, now known by the Spanish as Eusebio
Francisco Kino, at once set about learning the Indian
language. In a short time he had mastered it sufficiently
to translate into it the creed and other religious instruc-
tion and was actively engaged in the Christianization of
the natives when an eighteen months' drought led the
Admiral to abandon the place and return to Mexico.
In the meantime another zealous missionary was being
raised up for this work. Padre Juan Maria Salvatierra,
the Visitor-General of the religious houses of Sonora,
appointed Kino as his traveling companion. As they
journeyed, Kino poured into his superior's willing ears
his plans for the conversion of the California savages.
The results of these conversations ultimated in the rais-
ing of the famous Pious Fund of the Calif ornias and the
establishment by the Jesuits of the Missions of Lower
California. All this planning, however, for California,
did not prevent Kino and his superior from looking after
the interests of the Pimas in the land through which they
were then traveling. They came over the divide into the
Santa Cruz Valley as far north as Tumacacori, the first
recorded expedition into Arizona from the south since
the time of Coronado.
The following year (1692) Kino came north again,
reaching as high this time as the important Pueblo of
Bac and where later, 1700, he established the Mission of
San Xavier on the site where the magnificent church of
that foundation now stands.1
In November, 1694, he made the trip on which he dis-
covered the Casa Grande on the Gila River, of which
he left a most interesting and accurate description,
1 Bancroft asserts that there was no resident Jesuits in Arizona
in Kino's time, but Bolton, Spanish Explorations in the South West,
p. 449, footnote, shows that this was a decided error.
454 Arizona, the Wonderland
In December, 1696, and several times in 1697, with
an eye to the founding and supporting of future mis-
sions, he came into the valleys of the Santa Cruz and
San Pedro and began the establishment of stock ranches.
He was indefatigable and as practical as he was enthusi-
astic and heavenly visioned. Missions must be estab-
lished but they must be provided for. In spite of the
unfriendly outlook, with little to cheer him, with the
prospect of probable martyrdom before him, for he was
already learning the hostility of the Apaches, he reso-
lutely and courageously kept on with his work until San
Francisco Xavier del Bac was established and the Mis-
sions also of Guevavi and Tumacacori in the Santa Cruz
Valley — which he named the Valley of the Santa Maria.
On each side of Guevavi another Mission was later
established, one dedicated to San Cayetano and the other
to San Luis de Bacoanos. The ruins of the Guevavi
Mission are almost gone, though they are still trace-
able.
In 1699, Kino, with the Visitor-General Antonio Leal
and Fray Francisco Gonzalvo, came north, visiting the
Sonora and other missions, crossing into Arizona as far
as San Xavier (this was the visit when the Mission was
founded) and San Agustin del Ayaut, north of where
Tucson now stands. The visitor was so impressed with
the Missions that in 1701 he sent new missionaries, Juan
de San Martin to Guevavi, with San Cayetano and San
Luis as visitas, Francisco Gonzalvo to San Xavier, Ig-
nacio de Yturmende to Tubatama and Caspar de los
Barrilas to Caborca.1
1This date of the founding of San Xavier del Bac is given au-
thoritatively upon the personal memoirs of Kino, discovered by Bol-
ton in Mexico, now being edited, let us hope, for speedy publication.
This sets at rest a much discussed question.
Nogales and Santa Cruz County 455
The Mission of Tumacacori does not appear to have
assumed any particular importance until after 1767, the
year when the Jesuits were expelled and the Franciscans
took their places in the Santa Cruz Valley.
Fray Juan Gil de Bernave was sent to Guevavi and
the Mission appears now to be renamed, as it is spoken
of as Santos Angeles. Connected with it as visit as were
San Jose de Tumacacori, San Cayetano de Calabazas,
and San Ignacio de Sonoitac. There was no church at
Calabazas and the others were poor. Tumacacori was
one league from the presidio of Tubac and it had adobe
houses for the Indians and some walls of defense.
In 1772 Fray Antonio Reyes reported Tumacacori as
having a church and a priest's house, both empty, and a
population of ninety-three.
We now come to an interesting epoch in the history
of Arizona. The captain of the presidio of Tubac was
Don Juan Bautista de Anza. He had been strongly op-
posed to the missionary journeys of Garces, but now he
was about to avail himself of the information the padre
had secured. He asked for permission to report on the
feasibility of opening a road between the missions of
Sonora and the newly- founded establishments of Cali-
fornia that would facilitate communication between
them, and avoid the arduous and somewhat dangerous
journey across the Gulf of California from the main-
land, and the long march up the peninsula of Lower
California. The Viceroy gave the required permission
and ordered Fray Garces to accompany de Anza. Ac-
cordingly, Tubac became the scene of great prepara-
tions, and on the eighth of January, 1774, the expedition
started. For a full account of this memorable trip and
its consequences one must read the history of California,
and especially the work upon de Anza's founding of San
456 Arizona, the Wonderland
Francisco, by the Golden Gate, written by that sincere
student Zoeth Eldredge and entitled The Beginnings of
San Francisco.
Suffice it here to say that the expedition was success-
ful, the road assured, and in due time de Anza was
authorized to collect the necessary number of colonists,
soldiers, cattle, etc., needed for the founding of San
Francisco. At the same time preparations were to be
made for the establishing of two new missions, to be
conducted on a different plan than the paternal one
hitherto followed, to be placed at suitable sites on the
Gila and Colorado Rivers. Both projects, in due time,
were carried out, the former to the great glory of the
Pacific Coast, the latter to the disaster of all concerned.
San Francisco was duly established to become one of
the wonder cities of the world, while the two missions,
after several vexatious delays, were founded near the
place where the city of Yuma now stands. Proper pre-
cautions were not taken for the guarding of the missions
and the consequences foretold by Garces actually ac-
curred. The Yumas had been led to expect much at the
hands of the Spaniards. In this they were disappointed.
The settlers violated the first law of anything like friendly
association between themselves and the Indians by taking
possession of the best field and pastures, and in many
other ways irritated where they should have conciliated.
In June of 1781 Don Fernando Rivera y Moncada,
military governor of California, arrived at the Colorado
River Mission of Concepcion from Sonora, and sending
on ahead nine of his men, under Ensign Alferez Simon,
to the Mission of San Gabriel, himself settled down to
rest and recuperate for some weeks ere he renewed his
journey. It was a fatal rest. On the I7th of July, the
accumulated anger of the Yumas burst upon the men
Nogales and Santa Cruz County 457
they regarded as interlopers. Frays Garces, Barraneche,
Diaz, and Moreno were slain, as were also Rivera and
his soldiers, and thus the new experiment concluded.
The general disturbances between Mexico and Spain,
and within its own borders, seem to have affected most
seriously the later welfare of the Arizona missions.
At Guevavi, as we have seen, in 1769, the Apaches at-
tacked the Mission in midday, and it was not until about
1791 that it was completely repaired, a new roof being
put on at that time. Yet in 1784 it ceased to be a Mis-
sion, the padre in charge removing to Tumacacori, which
from that time on became the more important station.
Here a new church was built in the beginning of the
nineteenth century, but it was not completed until the
year 1822. This is the church now made into a Na-
tional Monument, and in the sadly ruined and dilapidated
condition on the west bank of the Santa Cruz River,
between fifty and sixty miles south of Tucson. Fray
Baltazar Carillo was stationed at Tumacacori until 1798
or 1799, when he died and was succeeded by Fray
Narcisco Gutierrez, who lived until 1820. Then Fray
Ramon Liberos took charge, but how long he remained
is not known, nor whether he had a successor.
Although Tumacacori has been duly declared a Na-
tional Monument by executive proclamation, it occupies
a rather anomalous position. Prior to United States
occupancy of New Mexico and Arizona a member of the
Baca family was given a grant, the location of which,
however, was not specified, and which he was empowered
to make at his own will. This grant he finally located
in the Valley of the Santa Cruz, covering many thou-
sands of acres and including the site of the Mission of
Tumacacori. The grant was questioned, however, and
taken into the United States Courts, which lately have
458 Arizona, the Wonderland
decided the case in favor of the Baca heirs. The active
citizens of Nogales, therefore, are now seeking to obtain
from these a grant to the United States government of
the mission lands so that the building itself may be cared
for, as, by departmental ruling, it is contrary to the
policy of the Government to spend any money upon any
object, no matter how worthy, the title of which is not
vested in the Government. As soon as this can be ac-
complished endeavors will be made to put the Mission
in a state of repair and protect it from the further rav-
ages of the weather.
It has already become one of the popular places of
interest to visitors both of Nogales and Tucson.
To return now to Kino. He still looked with longing
eyes on other parts of Arizona. He hoped to Christian-
ize the whole of the Apache nation, and to reach again
as far north and west as the Hopis, and east to the
Zunis. His zeal knew no abatement, his fervor no re-
duction, his labors no respite. Yet his eyes were ever
alert to the meeting of material needs. He was no
fanatical visionary, but essentially practical.
For instance, here is what he says of the temporal
means and opportunities " Our Lord offers " for aid in
the work:
"The greater the means the greater our obligation to seek the
salvation of so many souls in the very fertile and pleasant lands and
valleys of these new conquests and conversions. There are already
rich and abundant fields, plantings and crops of wheat, maize, frijoles,
chick-peas, beans, lentils, bastard chick-peas, etc. There are good
gardens, and in them vineyards for wine for masses, with reed-
brakes of sweet cane for syrup and panoche, and with the favor of
heaven, before long for sugar. There are many Castilian fruit-
trees, as fig-trees, quinces, oranges, pomegranates, peaches, apricots,
pear-trees, apples, mulberries, pecans, prickly pears, etc., with all
sorts of garden stuff such as lettuce, onions, leeks, garlic, anise,
pepper, mustard, mint, Castilian roses, white lilies, etc., with very
Nogales and Santa Crux County 459
good timber for all kinds of building such as pine, ash, cypress,
walnut, china-trees, mesquite, alders, poplar, willow, tamarind, etc.
" Another temporal means which our Lord gives us for the pro-
motion of these new conquests are the plentiful ranches which are
already stocked with cattle, sheep, and goats, many droves of mares,
horses, sumpters, mules as well as horses, pack animals necessary
for transportation and commerce, with very rich and abundant pas-
tures all the year to raise very fat sheep producing much tallow, suet,
and soap, which already is made in abundance.
" The climate of most of these new lands and new conquests where
the promotion of these new conversions is asked, is very good and
pleasant, and somewhat similar to that of Mexico and to the best of
Europe, with neither too great heat nor too great cold.
" In these new nations and new lands there are many good veins
and mineral lands bearing gold and silver; and in the neighborhood
and even in sight of these new missions and new conversions some
very good new mining camps of very rich silver ore are now being
established." 1
It will thus be seen that there is good foundation for
the stories that have come down to us of the richness
of the mines found in or near the Santa Cruz Valley.
Indeed, it was included in the famous Tierra del Naya-
rit, which Humboldt pronounced the "treasure house
of the world."
Kino's letters and reports soon brought the gold-
seekers into this favored region. To this day extensive
abandoned mine-workings may be found, and tradition
tells us of several mines which gave large returns even
with the crude and primitive methods of two or three
hundred years ago. Among these is the famous Las
Plancha de Platas, situated in Mexico about twenty miles
southwest of Nogales. This was discovered and worked
soon after the Jesuits came into the Santa Cruz Valley,
say in 1739, and was rich enough to satisfy the cupidity
of the most grasping. That it was not a permanent
mine is evident from what we know of its history.
1 Relation of Father Kino, in Bolton's Spanish Exploration in the
South West, Scribner's, 1916, pp. 457-8.
460 Arizona, the Wonderland
Owing to its early productiveness the Crown of Spain
coveted it. This we learn from Henry Howe, a well-
known writer on metallurgy. He asserts that in com-
paratively recent times, the attention of the Mexican
government was called to this deposit, and the records
were searched for the correspondence that was said to
have taken place between the king and the owners of the
mine. Howe continues — as quoted in Hinton's Handi-
book to Arizona:
" This correspondence I have seen, and I have in my possession a
certified copy of a decree of Philip the Fifth, dated Arranguez 28th
May, 1741, the object of which was to terminate a prosecution in-
stituted by the Royal Fiscal against the discoverers of Arizona, for
having- defrauded the treasury of the duties payable upon the masses
of pure silver found there. The decree states the weight of the
balls, sheets, and other pieces of silver discovered (bolas, planchas,
y otras piesas de plata) to have amounted to 156 arrobas in all
(4,033 Ibs.) ; and mentions particularly one mass of pure silver
which weighed 108 arrobas (2.700 Ibs.) ; and another of eleven ar-
robas, upon which duties had been actually paid by a Don Domingo
Asinendi, and which, as a great natural curiosity (como cosa espe-
cial) the King states ought to have been sent to Madrid.
" The decree ended by making the district royal property, and
directing the mines therein to be worked on royal account — a step
which had, naturally, the effect of destroying all private enterprise."
In 1817, it was again taken possession of, but the
Apaches gave the new owners much trouble, and nothing
much was done with it. In 1878 its modern history be-
gan. It has been continuously operated since that time,
one of its recent owners realizing as much as $1,500
per month from it. It now has a large amount of low
grade ore ready for the mill as soon as one is built at
Nogales with capacity for handling it, for it can supply
five hundred tons a day for an indefinite period.
Another historic mine was the Salero, or salt-cellar,
the location of which is well known in the Santa Rita
ffi <
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Nogales and Santa Cruz County 461
Mountains. It is said to have gotten its name from the
following incident :
On the occasion of a visit from the Bishop of Sonora to Tumaca-
cori, the good father in charge of that establishment furnished, as
in duty bound, the best entertainment for his superior that his limited
resources would allow. The Bishop was delighted with the sumptu-
ous feast laid before him; the chickens, the fruits, the wines were
all excellent ; there was only one thing lacking to complete his
temporal happiness, a salt-cellar ! The poor Padre was deeply morti-
fied; he had forgotten all about the salt-cellar; in fact, had long
since forgotten the use of such luxuries. Salt-cellars were as scarce
in Arizona then as they are now. " Never mind ! " said he, as a
happy thought struck him, "your Excellency shall have a salt-cel-
lar to-morrow." A few trusty men were dispatched to the Santa
Rita Mountains, with orders to dig and smelt some silver ore and
make a salt-cellar, and sure enough, by dinner-time the next day a
massive salt-cellar was presented to the Bishop, and from that day
forth the mine out of which the ore was dug was called the Salero.
History does not record, but there can be little doubt that the worthy
Bishop of Sonora enjoyed his dinner at Tumacacori.
Another old and famous mine was the Patagonia,
also known as the Mowry. This is situated about ten
miles above the Mexican boundary in Santa Cruz County
and is now included in the Coronado National Forest.
Patagonia, a few miles north of the mine, and the
second largest town in Santa Cruz County, is the ship-
ping point for the Mowry and for many other important
mines in its vicinity. The Mowry was no doubt one of
the mines known to the Spaniards and Mexicans, but
Americans re-discovered it in 1858, and in 1860 it was
purchased by Sylvester Mowry, a man who made deep
impress upon Arizona in those early days. He had been
a lieutenant in the United States Army, had commanded
the post at Yuma but was retired. It was a source of
great disagreement and expense to its original owners
but Mowry finally became owner of four-fifths of it,
gave it his own name and operated it with a fair degree
462 Arizona, the Wonderland
of success. Browne said the lode appeared to be large,
bold and well-defined and the ore of fair average rich-
ness. On the occasion of his visit, it was yielding about
$35 to the ton, though Kiistel, the distinguished metal-
lurgist, after careful examination the month before, re-
ported that a general average of $50 to $70 to the ton
might be obtained. But owing to the Civil War, Mowry
got into difficulties with General Carleton, who ordered
him imprisoned and the mine seized under the Confisca-
tion Act. Though ostensibly under arrest at Yuma,
Mowry was so well liked that he suffered little hardship.
Investigation by General Wright later secured his re-
lease but in 1868, Mowry collected about $40,000 dam-
ages from the Government and went to London, where
he died. This mine is now in the Harshaw District and
is being regularly worked by the Standard Metals Com-
pany. The main shaft is down over six hundred feet.
In this same district the old Hermosa mine is located.
It is still being worked most profitably.
Other mines at present in successful and profitable
operation are the Duquesne, World's Fair, Three Rs,
Trench and several others in the Patagonia Mountains;
the Final, Alabama Queen, Wandering Jew and others
in the Santa Ritas; and the Montana Mines in the Oro
Blanco region, not far south of the location of the his-
toric Heintzleman Mine.
Over in Sonora, Mexico, in the Magdalena district,
are many rich mines.
The Sonora Mining and Exploration Company was
instrumental in calling much attention to the mines in
Santa Cruz County in the early days. Its President
was General S. P. Heintzleman of the United States
Army and its principal mine was named after him. The
company was organized in Cincinnati, in March, 1856,
Nogales and Santa Cruz County 463
and, as its name implies, it was for the purpose of ex-
ploring and working the old mines of northern Sonora.
Charles D. Poston, a born adventurer and promoter of
the higher type, was at its head as the practical man of
affairs in the field. With him went J. Ross Browne, in
1863, to look over the properties of the company, and
to that trip we owe the fascinating narrative, Adventures
in the Apache Country, published in Harper's Magazine
and, later, in book form. The chief operations were
confined to the region around Tubac and Arivaca and
though some of the ores sampled as high as $1,000 per
ton the gross value of all the ores mined in 1860 totaled
only $90,804. The first run of bullion from Heintzel-
man and Arivaca ores, made in 1858, was from a small
mud furnace that cost $250. It took six hundred hours
to smelt about 22,800 pounds of ore, from which were
secured 2,287 ounces of silver and 300 pounds of cop-
per, no mention being made of the lead. German ex-
perts later came and suggested the Freiberg system of
barrel amalgamation, which was later used.
These are but brief references to the mines on the
Arizona side of the line. But Nogales is the Border
City and is the Gateway to the south as well as to the
north. Here the main line of the Southern Pacific goes
on down to the West Coast of Mexico, through the won-
derfully rich mining territory of Sonora and Sinaloa,
and on through Tepic, from where it is necessary to
construct less than fifty miles in order to connect up with
the railroads running into Guadalajara and the City of
Mexico.
With the completion of this short link, Nogales will
be the Port of Entry on a great railway line extending
from the Pacific Northwest to the City of Mexico, the
464 Arizona, the Wonderland
Mexican portion of which line is richer in scenic beauty
and intersects a region of greater resources than any
other in Mexico.
Thus its opportunities are great, its mining territory
is immense and the same may be said of its cattle coun-
try, for the same area is one of the most famous cattle
regions of Mexico and Arizona.
But Santa Cruz County is now awakening also to the
full value of its agricultural resources. The great num-
ber of operating mines, as well as the city of Nogales
and other neighboring cities, are demanding quantities
of fresh fruit, vegetables, legumes, and forage crops,
which the region can well supply. Over five hundred
American farmers have come to this county and estab-
lished themselves in the rich valleys within the past five
years. The Valley of Santa Cruz, second in Arizona
only to the Salt River Valley in productiveness, is about
to come from under the shadow of a land-grant liti-
gation of many years' standing and, with the establish-
ment of clear titles, its development will be wonder-
ful.
However, hundreds of acres already are under success-
ful cultivation, showing its great possibilities with the full
development of its water resources.
Santa Cruz County is well provided with roads, it
being on the magnificent Borderland Route (a loop
thereto recently established) which connects Bisbee and
Douglas with Tucson. Passing over plains and through
mountain passes by historic forts, camps, mines and vil-
lages, it reaches Nogales, then down the Santa Cruz
Valley, directly by the old Mission of Tumacacori, the
Presidio of Tubac, the historic Revanton ranch-house, by
the Mission of San Xavier del Bac to Tucson.
Climatically the region is one of the highly favored
Nogales and Santa Cruz County 465
districts for which Arizona has already become world
famed. One neither roasts, fries, bakes, or frizzles in
summer nor freezes, crystallizes, or solidifies in winter.
Hence it is perfectly adapted for the residence of the
most delicate as well as the rugged and robust.
The fact that it is on the border has led the Govern-
ment to provide adequately for its perfect protection in
the future. Permanent quarters are being established
for an adequate number of soldiers of both infantry
and cavalry with a full complement of the artillery.
Hence with its great opportunities for business in so
many profitable and diversified channels, its healthful
location, its delightful climate, its progressive commun-
ity, growing in all of the finer things of life as well as
in commercial competency, there are few cities in the
West that afford equal, much less superior, advantages
to Nogales, the county seat of Santa Cruz County and
the Key City to the wonderful west coast of Mexico.
THE END
B1BLIOGEAPHY
ARMSTRONG AND THORNBER: Western Wild Flowers.
BANCROFT, HUBERT HOWE: Arizona and New Mexico.
BARRETT, S. M. (Editor) : Geronimo's Story of His Life.
BERARD, FATHER: Ethnologic Dictionary of Navahos.
Navaho Dictionary.
BOLTON, HERBERT : Spanish Explorations of the South West.
BOURKE, JOHN G. : On the Border with Crook.
An Apache Campaign.
BROWN, JAMES CABELL: Calabasas.
BUREAU OF ETHNOLOGY REPORTS : See Monographs by Powell,
Stevenson, Mindeleff, Fewkes, Gushing, etc.
CASTANEDA'S NARRATIVE OF THE CORONADO EXPEDITION. (Translated
by Parker Winship.) In Bureau of Ethnology Reports.
CREMONY, JOHN C. : Life Among the Apaches.
COUES, ELLIOTT (Editor and Translator) : On the Trail of a Span-
ish Pioneer. (The Diary of Padre Garces.)
DELLENBAUGH, F. S. : The Romance of the Colorado River.
DUTTON, CLARENCE E. : Tertiary History of the Grand Canyon
District.
ELDRIDGE, ZOETH SKINNER: Beginnings of San Francisco.
FEWKES, JESSE WALTER : Various Monographs in Bureau of Eth-
nology Reports.
FORBES, ROBERT H. : Bulletins of Arizona Agricultural Experiment
Stations.
GREY, ZANE: The Last of the Great Plainsmen.
The Rainbow Trail.
HALL, S HARLOT M. : Cactus and Pine.
HINTON, R. J. : Handbook to Arizona.
HOUGH, WALTER: Prehistoric Ruins of the Gila and Salt Rivers.
(In Report of Smithsonian Institution.)
467
468 Bibliography
HOWARD, GENERAL O. O. : My Life and Experiences Among Our
Hostile Indians.
IVES, LIEUTENANT J. C. : Explorations of the Colorado River of the
West.
JAMES, GEORGE WHARTON : Indians of the Painted Desert Region.
House Blessing Ceremony.
Indian Basketry.
Indian Blankets and Their Makers.
In and Around the Grand Canyon.
Reclaiming the Arid West.
The Grand Canyon of Arizona.
Our American Wonderlands.
The Indians' Secrets of Health.
KING, GENERAL CHARLES : Campaigning with Crook.
Sunset Crossing.
LEWIS, ALFRED HENRY: Wolfville Stories.
LUMMIS, CHARLES FLETCHER: The Land of Poco Tiempo.
Strange Corners of Our Country.
Volumes of Land of Sunshine and Out West.
MATTHEWS, WASHINGTON: The Night Chant.
Navaho Legends.
MOWRY, SYLVESTER: Arizona and Sonora.
MUIR, JOHN : Our National Parks.
NOBLE, F. L. : Shinumo Quadrangle, Grand Canyon.
PATTIE, JAMES O. : Personal Narrative.
POWELL, JOHN WESLEY : Canyons of the Colorado.
Explorations of the Canyons of the Colorado River.
PRUDDEN, T. MITCHELL : On the Plateaus of the South West
PUMPELLY, RALPH : Across America and Asia.
ROBINSON, WILL H. : The Man from Yesterday.
RYAN, MARAH ELLIS: Love Letters of an Indian.
SIMPSON, LIEUTENANT J. H. : Expedition Against the Navahos.
WHITE, STEWART EDWARD: Arizona Nights' Entertainment.
WRIGHT, HAROLD BELL : When a Man's a Man.
INDEX
Titles of Chapters are in Small Capitals.
Titles of Books or Poems are in Italics.
Abronias, 187.
Aoamana, 114.
Agaves, 169, 179.
Agricultural Experiment Stations,
228.
Agua Prieta, 409.
Air, Pure Desert, 4.
Alfilerilla, 181, 217.
Alligator-bark, 178.
Allionias, 187.
Alliot, Hector, 276.
Altitudes, Arizona, 169.
Ancha, Sierra, 12, 39, 64.
Anza, Juan Bautista de, 15, 48, 255
Apache, Fort, 141.
Indians, 23, 69, 293.
Indians, Life Among, 260.
National Forest, 124.
Reservation, 38.
Trail, 64, 138, 213.
TRAIL, OVER THE, 329—345.
Araucarioxylon Arizonicum, 105.
Arizona, 264.
And Eastern Railway, 15, 16,
141.
Antiquarian Association, 57.
Copper Company, 202.
Cowboys, 278.
INFLUENCE ON ART AND LITERA-
TURE, 246—277.
Kicker, 421.
Magazine, 374.
MINERAL WEALTH, 190—211.
Roads, 144.
Sampled Reduction Company,
362.
School of Mines, 190—211, 230.
WONDER CIRCUIT, 144—150.
Zones of Climate, 151.
Arroyo de la Tenaja, 203.
ART AND LITERATURE OF ARIZONA,
246-277.
Artists in Arizona, 276.
Ashfork, 16.
Astronomy, 232.
Atmosphere, Arizona, 17.
Atriplex, 186.
Automobiling, 144.
Awatobi, 21, 40, 46, 47, 58.
DESTRUCTION OF, 92—97, 389.
Ayer, Edward E., 378.
B
Baca Grant, 457.
Bagote, 127.
Baker, Ray Stannard, 270.
Bandar Log Press, 275.
Bandelier, Adolf F., 35.
Barnes, Will C., 270.
Basketry, Indian, 77, 80.
Indian Collections, 80, 81.
Bass Camp, 368.
Bayonet, Spanish, 177. .
Beach, Rex E., 272.
Beale's Wagon Road, 255.
Beaver Creek, 57.
Becker Mercauble Company, 143.
Bee Plant, 187.
Beginnings of San Francisco, 456.
Beltran, Fray Bernaldino, 43.
Benson, 15, 401.
Berard, Father, 50, 258.
Best, Arthur W., 276.
Best, Harry Cassie, 276.
Betatakin, 55, 59.
Bilicke, A. C, 426.
BIRDS OF ARIZONA, 151 — 167.
BISBEE, THE COPPER CITY, 200,
241. 396, 407, 410-418.
469
470
Index
Bisbee Massacre, 415.
Bisnaga (barrel cactus), 2.
Blackbirds, 165.
Black Canyon, 23.
Black Hills, 12.
Black Mountain, 365.
Black River, 140, 141.
Blake, Professor, 230.
Blanketry of Indians, 77.
Bloody Basin, 128.
Bloody Thirteenth Legislature,
224.
Blome, R. H. H., 237.
Blue Water, Canyon of, 13, 23.
Bolton, Herbert, 42, 45, 454.
Boquillas Land and Cattle Com-
pany, 400, 425.
Borages, 182.
Bright Angel Trail, 16.
Boeque Redondo, 213.
Botany, 232.
Bottomless Pits, 365.
Bourke, John G., 169, 176, 178,
258, 260, 296, 339, 352.
Bowie, 1 6.
Bowie Valley, 400.
Bradshaw Reduction Company,
SSI-
Brady, Cyrus Townsend, 269.
Branding Cattle, 280, 286.
Bridge, Petrified, 115.
Bronze Bells, 186.
Brown, James Cabell, 271.
Brown, Major, 338.
Buckwheat, 185.
Bullock's Oriole, 151.
Bureau of Mines, 191.
Butler, G. M., 230.
Bustamente, 43.
Cabeza de Vaca, 20, 32.
Cactus, 2, 3, 168.
Cactus and Pine, 263.
Calabasas, 271, 300.
California Saddles, 278.
Calumet and Arizona Mine, 410.
Camargo, Fray Antonio, 49.
Campaigning with Crook, 23.
Camp Verde, 13.
Canals Near Phoenix, 429.
Cannon's, Dr., Studies, 325.
Canyon de Chelly, 3, 52, 55, 64, 90.
Canyon Diablo, 344.
CANYON, THE GRAND, 98 — 103.
Canyon of the Colorado, 251.
Cape Horn, 343.
Cardinal, Arizona, 164.
Carillo, Baltasar, 303.
Carrizo Creek, 138.
Carson, Kit, 23.
Casa Grande, 39, 55, 63, 138.
Castaneda, 36, 253.
Castle Dome Range, 204.
Cataract Canyon (S^Havasu), 13,
23-
Cathedral Cave, 390.
Cat's Claw, 177.
Cattle and the Spaniards, 212.
Cattle Branding, 280, 286.
Cave Dwellings, 19, 365.
Cave Fight at Apache, 339.
Caves in Lava, 140.
Cerbat, 16.
Cereus Giganteus, 3.
Cereus, Night Blooming, 176.
Chaco Canyon, 52.
Chalcedony Park, 114.
Challender, 16.
Chamuscado, 42.
CHANDLER AND THE SAN MARCOS,
442-448.
Chautauqua Circle, 239.
Chemehuevis, 23, 68.
Chilopsis or Desert Willow, I, 178.
Chin Lee, 91.
Chiricahua Apaches, 69.
Chiricahua Mountains, 7, 394.
Chiricahua National Forest, 132.
Chloride, 16.
Chollas, 169, 216.
Chuck-wagon, 288.
Cibola, Seven Cities of, 37.
Cienega, 142.
Citrous Fruits, 435.
Clark, Charles B., Jr., 280.
Clark, W. A., 16, 200, 201, 347.
Clarkdale, 202.
CLIFF DWELLINGS, 3, 19, 20, 51 —
64, 334. 365-
Clifton, 202.
Clovers, 168.
Clum, John P., 425.
COCHISE, 15, 23,424.
COUNTY, 393—402.
Stronghold, 8, 407, 424.
COCONINO COUNTY AND FLAG-
STAFF, 365 — 378.
Coconino National Forest, 122,
126.
Index
471
Coleman Lake, 388.
Colorado, Little, 1 1, 27, 63, 68, 367
Colorado River, I, 15, 22, 23, 27,
68, 367.
Commonwealth Mine, 202.
Cocopah Indians, 45.
Congress Mine, 351, 362.
Consolidated Arizona Mines, 350.
Cooley's, 142.
Copper Production, 190.
Copper Queen, 200, 202, 405, 410.
Corchada Andres, 45.
Cornelia, New, 202.
Cornfields, Hopi, 82.
Coronado, 20, 34, 190, 212, 253.
National Forest, 131.
Cortes, 32.
Cosmopolitan Hotel, 299.
Cotton woods, 178.
Cotton, Egyptian, 436.
Country Club, Douglas, 407.
Coville, F. W., 321.
COWBOY EPOCH, THE, 278—292.
Cowboys, 221, 269.
Duties, 285.
Fun, 283, 289.
Language, 289.
Names, 284.
Saddles, 278.
Crane, Sandhill, 154.
Cream Cups, 183.
Cremony, John C., 260.
Creosote Bush, 177.
Crook, General, 130, 213, 295.
Crook National Forest, 130.
Crook, On the Border with, 260.
Crouse, Judge, 142.
Crown King Mine, 351.
Cuchan Indians, 45.
Culiacan, 35.
Cummings, Byron, 58, 60, 231.
Cummings, Mrs. Byron, 242.
Cummings, Malcolm, 61.
Curtis, Natalie, 76.
Gushing, Lieut. F. H., 13, 55, 62,
258.
Cutting out Cattle, 287.
•P
Dairy Industry, 222.
Dandelions, 183.
Datura, 188.
Desert, I, 25, 248, 274.
LABORATORY, 319—328.
Willow, 2.
Diamond Swindle, 206.
Diaz, Melchior, 34.
Dictionary, Navaho, 50.
Diego de Vargas, 47.
Discovery of Arizona, 32.
Doniphan's Expedition, 51.
Dorsey, George A., 258.
Dos Cabesas Mountains, 7.
DOUGLAS, THE SMELTER CITY, 9,
I5» I32,393,403-409-
Douglas, Dr. James, 201.
Douglass, Dr. A. E., 232.
Douglass, W. B., 61.
Doves, 155.
Dragoon Mountains, 7.
Duffield of Tucson, 296.
Dutton, Clarence E., 100, 248, 368.
Eagles, 155.
Ehrenburg, 203.
Eldridge, Zoeth, 456.
Elk in Arizona, 125.
El Paso and S. W. Railway, 15,
395, 403, 410.
El Tovar Hotel, 16, 254.
Emory, 255.
Escalante, 49, 255.
Escobar, Francisco de, 45.
Espejo, 20, 43, 190.
Espeleta, Fray Jose de, 46.
Estebanico, 20.
Estill, Mrs. J. W., 176, 277.
Experiment Stations, 228, 320.
Explorations of the Colorado
River, 251.
Falcons, 155.
Farfan, Marcos, 45.
FASCINATIONS OF THE LAND, 19—
31'.
Federation of Women's Clubs, 243 .
Fescue, 186.
Fewkes, J. Walter, 55, 92, 258, 367.
Figueroa, Fray Jose de, 46.
Filaree, 181.
Fire, Prescott, 352.
Fish Creek Canyon, 337.
Fishing, 12,23,135.
Fish Traps, Mohave, 87.
FLAGSTAFF AND COCONINO COUNTY,
11,16,58,365-378.
Flagstaff Hotel, 377.
Flagstaff Normal School, 236, 371.
472
Index
Flickers, 163.
FLORA OF ARIZONA, 168 — 189.
Florence, 16, 55, 138.
Flowers, "Doc," 205.
Flowers Introduced by Spaniards,
188.
Flowing Wells Diary, 317.
Flycatchers, 163.
Font Pedro, 15, 48.
Forbes, Robert H., 230.
FORESTS, NATIONAL, OF ARIZONA,
2, 121 — 132.
Forests, Homestead Law, 123.
Fort Apache, n.
Four Corners, 366.
Four Peaks, The, 332.
FRANCISCANS IN ARIZONA, 21,4.1 —
50, 295.
Francisco, J. Bond, 276.
Franklin, Selim M., 226.
Freeman, Merrill B., 299.
Gadsden Hotel, 407.
Galiuro Mountains, 7, 130.
Gallegos, 43.
Gallinule, Purple, 165.
Garaicoechea, Fray Juan, 47.
Garces, Padre, 15, 21, 48, 301.
Garland, Hamlin, 261, 270.
Gates, Garth W., 373.
Gates, Merrill E., 70.
Geronimo, 23.
Geronimo Hotel, 309.
Gil, Fray, 301, 302.
Gila Bend, 138.
Gila City, 203.
Gila, Pilgrim on the, 271.
Gila River, 16, 28, 56, 62, 137, 400.
Gila Ruins, 56, 62.
Gilias, 185.
GLIMPSES OF THE LAND, i — 18.
Globe, 1 6, 331.
Golden Palace of Neverland, 273.
Gold Roads Mine, 191.
Gold Placers, 203.
Goodyear Rubber Company, 436.
Graham, Mt., 130.
Grama Grasses, 168, 177.
GRAND CANYON, THE, 16, 19, 98 —
103, 127, 248.
Grand Falls, 367.
Granite Dells, 346.
Granite Reef Dam, 28.
Grasses, 168.
Greaterville District, 204.
Greer, 138.
Grey, Zane, 98, 370.
Grinnell, Joseph, 166.
Guevavi Mission, 40, 300.
Gulf of California, 45.
Gutierrez, Andres, 46.
H
Hackett, Charles W., 47.
Hall, Sharlot M., 263, 270, 361.
Handy, Dr., 228.
Harvey Hotels, 102, 387.
Hawks, 155.
HASSAYAMPA, 16, 395 — 364.
HAVASU CREEK AND CANYON, 13,
28, 379-392.
Havasupai Indians, 13, 23, 58, 68,
295-
Health Seekers in Arizona, 354,
398.
Heber, 130.
Hell Canyon, 12.
Hell's Hip Pocket, 213.
Heney, F. J., 228.
Herds, Improving the, 221.
Hermit's Rest and Trail, 102.
Her Navaho Lover, 275.
Herons, 154.
Hillside Mines, 205.
Hill, Louis C, 336.
Hill, Wesley, 64.
Hodge, F. W., 258.
Holbrook, II, 139.
Holme, Frank, 274.
Holmes, W. H., 249, 258.
Homes of Indians, 89.
Homolobi, 63.
Hopi Indians, 21, 23, 45, 46, 47, 48,
68, 75, 82, 295, 366.
Hopi Reservation, 10, 71, 82, 366.
Hopi Snake Dance, 75, 366.
Hornaday, Dr., 12.
Hough, Walter, 258.
Howard, Gen. O. O., 425.
Huachuca Mountains, 394, 407,
417, 419, 423.
Huggett, Bill, 446.
Humbolt, 350.
Humming Birds, 156.
Hunt, Gov. Coll. of Baskets, 80.
Hunting in Arizona, n, 123, 135,
154, 384.
Huntington, Dr., 326.
Index
473
Ibis, 154.
Imperial Valley, 16.
In and Around the Grand Canyon,
19.
INDIANS OF ARIZONA, 23, 65—91,
.383-
Indian Legends, 246.
Indian, Literature on the, 258.
Indian, Love Letters of an, 263.
Indian of Painted Desert Region, 19.
Indian Question, 70.
Indian Wars, 23,65.
Influence on Literature, Arizona's,
248.
INGLESIDE, 437—441.
Inscription House, 6l.
Inscription Rock, 48.
Inspiration Consolidated Mines,
202.
Ironwood, 177.
Ives, Lieutenant, 22, 255, 257.
Jays, 158.
Jeffords, Captain, 424.
Jepson, W. L., 232.
Jerome, 12, 1 6, 201, 350.
JESUITS AND FRANCISCANS IN
ARIZONA, 41 — 50.
Jesuit Mines, 198.
Jimpson Weeds, 188.
Juan de la Cruz, Fray, 42.
Juan de Santa Maria, 42.
Judd, Neil M., 58.
Juncoes, 162.
Juniper, 178.
Kaibab National Forest, 127.
Kayenta, 59.
Kearny, Gen. S., 51, 68.
Kent, Chief Justice, 429.
Kingman, 16.
Kino, Padre, 21, 48, 55, 293, 300,
453, 458.
Kirk, M. E., 91.
Kitsiel, 55,58, 62.
Knapp, Adelaide, 273.
Kolb, Ellsworth, 101.
LABORATORY, DESERT AT TUCSON,
319—328.
Laguna Dam, 29.
Lake, Coleman, 388.
Land of Sunshine, 369.
La Paz Mines, 203.
Lariats, 213.
Lark Bunting, 166.
Las Guijas Placers, 204.
Lasso, 279.
Last of the Great Plainsmen, 370.
Lava Cones, 58, 118.
LAVA FIELDS, ETC., 14, 104—120.
Legend, Hassayampa, 362.
Legumes, 168.
Lemmon, John G., 183.
Lemmon, Mt., 132, 309.
Leviston District, 204.
Lewis, Alfred Henry, 421.
Lily, Desert, 180.
Lithodendron Creek, 117.
Little Colorado River, 1 1 , 27.
LITERATURE AND ART OF ARIZONA,
246-277.
Lockhart, Clifton, 58.
Loco Weeds, 185.
Lopez, Francisco, 42.
Lost Mines, 198, 205.
Love Letters of an Indian, 263.
Lowell, 411.
Camp, 267, 295.
Luis de Escalona, 42.
Lumber, 139, 377, 383.
Lummis, Charles F., 57, 258, 369.
Lupines, 185.
Lynx Creek Mines, 204.
\
M
MacDougal, Dr. D. T., 321.
Machebeuf, Rev. J. P., 304.
Mallows, 1 86.
Man From Yesterday, The, 273.
Mangas Colorado, 23, 335.
Manuelito, 15.
Marcos de Nizza, 20, 35, 212.
How DISCOVERED ARIZONA, 32
-40.
Marcos, Fray, Hotel, 387.
Maricopa, 16.
Indians, 45, 69.
Marsh Pass, 59.
Martinez, Don Feliz, 48.
Mary Lake, 368.
Mashongnavi, 21, 46.
Massacre at Awatobi, 21.
Mattatiwiddati Canyon, 23.
Matthews, A. J., 237.
474
Index
Matthews, Washington, 74, 258.
Mayer, 351.
Mazatzal Mountains, 12, 332.
McClatchie, Mrs. A. J., 243.
McCrackin, Jackson Mine, 199.
McCrackin, Josephine Clifford,
199, 267.
Mendoza, Viceroy, 34.
Merriam, C. Hart, 321, 368.
Merrill, Dr. George P., 113.
Mesa, 345.
Mesa, Verde Ruins, 58.
Mescal, 179.
Mesquite Tree, I, 87, 177.
METEORITE MOUNTAIN, ETC., 14,
104— 1 20.
Miami, 202, 331.
Miller, Dr., 57.
Miller, Joaquin, 271.
Mindeleff, 53, 54, 258.
Mineral, 16.
Wealth, 29, 206.
MINERALS, THE SYMPHONY OF
THE, 190—211.
Variety of, 206.
Mines in Arizona, 29, 191.
Lost, 198, 205.
Santa Cruz Company, 459.
Arizona School of, 230.
Mining Bureau, 191.
Miranda, Fray A., 47.
Mixing the Medicine, 284.
Mogollon Mountains, 12, 134.
Mohave Apaches, 69.
Mohave Indians, 23, 45, 68, 87.
Monday Club of Prescott, 239.
Monte Cristo Mine, 351, 361.
Montezuma Castle, 13, 56, 63, 373
Montezuma Well, 13, 56, 63, 373.
Monument Canyon, 90.
Morgan, Mrs. H. A., 244.
Mormons in Arizona, 138, 270.
Mormon Lake, 368.
Morning Glories, 1 88.
Mound Builders, 54.
Mountains of Arizona, 137, 1 80.
Mowry Sylvester, 461.
Muerto Canyon del, 90.
Muir, John, 220.
Mule Mountains, 7, 410.
Munk's, Dr., Arizona Library, 276.
Murphy, Gov. N. O., 205.
Museum University, 80, 232.
Mustards, 184.
Myths of Lost Mines, 205.
N
Naco, 15.
Natanes Plateau, 138.
Natanje, 338.
NATIONAL FORESTS OF ARIZONA,
121 — 132.
Nation of the Willows, 13, 68.
Natural Bridge, 373.
Navaho Dances, 75, 376.
Dictionary, 50.
Indians, 23, 49, 51, 68, 74, 366.
Mountain, 58, 366.
Reservation, 3, 71, 366, 376.
Sand Paintings, 259.
Songs and Chants, 75, 376.
Needles Mountains, 15.
New Mexico, Conquest of, 44.
Newspaper, First in Arizona, 296.
Nicholson, Herbert, 317.
Night Chant, The, 75.
Nitsie Canyons, 61.
Noble, F. L., on Grand Canyon,
101, 368.
NOGALES AND SANTA CRUZ
COUNTY, 15, 48, 449—465.
Nonnezoshie Bridge, 61.
Nordenskiold, Baron, 20.
Nopals, 174.
Normal Schools, 236.
Nut Pine, 178.
0
Oak Creek, 63, 126.
Oatman, 191.
Ocatillo, 175.
Octave Mine, 351.
Old Hat District, 204.
Onate, Juan de, 44, 190, 212, 255.
O'Neill, Bucky, 262, 356.
Opuntias, 171.
Oracle, 141.
Oraibi, 21, 46, 47, 49.
OrdPeak, II, 138.
Oriole, Bullock's, 151.
Orndorff Hotel, 299.
Oro Grande Mine, 361.
Oskinson, 60.
Otermin, Governor, 47.
Out of Door Teaching, 234.
Out West, 369.
OVER THE APACHE TRAIL, 329—
345-
Overton, Gwendolyn, 262.
Owls, 156.
Index
475
Packathetrueyeba Trail, 391.
Padilla, Fray Juan, 42.
Paint Brush, Indian, 183.
Painted Desert, 5, IO, 16 26, 255,
258, 272.
Palo Verde, 177.
Panfilo de Narvaez, 32.
Papagoes, 15, 69.
Papagueria, 69.
Parrott, 162.
Partridge, 154.
Patagonia Mine, 461.
Panic's Narrative, 22.
Peas, 168, 184.
Pedregosa Mountains, 7.
Peloncillo Mountains, 137.
Penrod, 142.
People of Peace, 23.
Perilla Mountains, 7.
Petrified Bridge, 115.
PETRIFIED FORESTS, SUNSET
CRATER, ETC., 104—120.
Phacebias, 181.
Phallicism, II.
Phillips House, 298.
PHOENIX AND SALT RIVER VALLEY,
7, 16, 427-441.
Pigweeds, 1 86.
Pikami, 85.
Piki, 85.
Pilgrim on the Gila, 271.
Pima Indians, 15, 56, 69, 428.
Pima Revolt, 300.
Pimbria Aha, 302.
Pinaleno Mountains, 7, 130.
Pinchot, Gifford, 168.
Pine-Crest, Prescott, 357.
Pine Hens, II.
Pines, 178.
Pinetop, 142.
Pinyon Nut, 178.
Pitahaya, 170.
Placers, Gold, 203, 204.
Placers, Las Guijas, 204.
Plantains, 185.
Platinum Frauds, 206.
Plomosa District, 204.
Pope", 46.
Poppies, 182.
Porras, Fray Francisco de, 46.
Poston, Charles D., 462.
Powell, John Wesley, 755, 101,
251, 320, 368.
Powell Plateau, 99.
Prescott, 239.
AND YAVAPAI CouNTY,346— 358.
Drives About, 355.
Mines Near, 348.
Monday Club of, 239.
National Forest, 128.
Pine Crest, 357.
Women's Club of, 239.
President of Arizona University,
233.
Prickly Pears, 174, 215.
Prieto Plateau, 140.
Primroses, 183.
Prospectors, 22, 30, 194.
Modern, 195.
Pueblo Rebellion, 46.
Purslanes, 187.
Quail, 160.
Quijotoa District, 204.
R
Rainbow Arch Bridge, 6l.
Rainbow Forest, 1 14.
Rains, Arizona, 180.
Rebellion of 1680, 46.
Reclamation Service, United
States, 29, 30.
Red Butte, 385.
Red Rock, 16.
Red Rock Country, 12, 57.
Reduction Company, Arizona, 362.
Reed, Tom, Mine, 191.
Remington, Frederick, 268.
Requiem of Drums, 262.
Revanton Ranch, 305.
Rice, 141.
Rich Hills Mines, 204, 362.
Rim, The, 126, 134.
Rivers of Arizona, 27, 137.
Roads in Arizona, 144.
Roadrunners, 158.
Robertson, Alex, 426.
Robinson, Will H., 273.
Rockfellow, John A., 425.
Rodeo, 282, 387.
Rodriguez, Fray Augustin, 42.
Roosevelt Dam and Lake, 6, 28,
129,138,334,431.
Ross, Lieutenant, 338.
Round-Up, The, 281, 387.
Ryan, Marah Ellis, 262.
476
Index
Saccato Gordo, 182.
Saddles, Differences in, 278.
Safford, 131.
Governor, 65.
Sagie Canyons, 59, 366.
Saguaroor Sahuaro, 3, 163, 170.
National Park, 437.
Saliho, 94.
Salmeron, 45.
Salt Bush, 186.
Salt River, 6, 28, 39, 129, 137.
Project, 430.
VALLEY AND PHOENIX, 6, 39,
62, 128, 427—441.
Ruins, 62.
Sanchez, Francisco, 42.
Sandstorms, 26.
San Carlos, 16, 138.
San Domingo, Wash., 204.
San Francisco Mountains, n, 365,
38S.
San Jose de Tumacacon, 15.
San Juan de los Caballeros, 44.
San Juan Indian Agency, 73.
SAN MARCOS HOTEL AND CHAND-
LER, 345, 442-448.
San Pedro, Los Angeles and Salt
Lake Railway, 16.
San Pedro River and Valley, 38,
395, 40°, 4i9-
San Simon, 15, 396, 399.
San Xavier del Bac, 15, 40, 48,
295, 300 et seq., 453.
Santa Catalinas, 131.
Santa Cruz River and Valley, 15,
28,48,311,312.
SANTA CRUZ COUNTY AND NO-
GALES, 449—465.
Santa Fe Railway, 12, 1 6.
Santa Fe, Prescott and Phoenix
Railway, 12, 16, 199.
Santa Maria, Fray A., 46.
Santa Rita Mines, 198.
Schiefflin, Ed, 419.
Seri Indians, 302.
Shattuck Cave, 416.
Shattuck Mine, 410.
Sheep and Cattle Fights, 220, 269.
Sheepmen, 269.
Shelton, W. T., 73.
Shinumo Quadrangle , 101.
Shrike, 165.
Shrader, Mrs. C. A., 81.
Shungopavi, 21, 40, 46.
Sierra Ancha, 12, 39.
Signal, Tucson, 299.
Sikyatki, 58, 92.
DESTRUCTION OF, 92—97.
Silverbell, 16.
Simpson, Lieutenant, 5 2.
Sitgreaves, 255.
National Forest, 124.
Sky, Arizona, 17.
Smith, Douglas, 3 17.
Smoke Tree, 178.
Snake Dance of Hopis, 10.
Soap Root, 179.
Solomonsville, 16.
Songs of Cowboys, 280, 289.
Sonoitac, 303.
Southern Pacific Railway, 15, 396.
Spanish Bayonet, 177.
Spanish Exploration in S. W., 45.
Spear Grass, 186.
Spenazuma Mine, 205.
Springerville, 141, 143.
STATE UNIVERSITY, THE, 224—
237-
Stephen the Negro, 20, 33, 212.
St. Mary's Sanitarium, 308.
St. Michaels, 50.
STOCK RAISING IN ARIZONA, 212—
223.
Stoddard Mines, 351.
Strange Corners of Our Country, 57.
Strauss, Charles M., 227.
Strip, The, 127.
Sulphur Spring Valley, 8, 396, 401,
406.
SUNSET CRATER, ETC., 14, 104—
120, 365.
Sunset Route, 16.
Sunshine in Arizona, 17.
Sunflowers, 183, 187.
Superstition Mountains, 344.
Swarth, Harry S., 152, 167.
Sycamore Canyon, 381, 388.
SYMPHONY OF THE MINERALS, 190
—211.
Talli Hogan, 94.
Taylor, Frederick W., 318.
Telescope for University, 232.
Tempe, 62.
Normal School, 236, 345.
Teresa, Santa, Mountains, 130.
Texas Cowboys, 278.
Saddles, 279.
Index
477
Their Yesterdays, 171.
Thieving Thirteenth Assembly,
224.
Thomas Peak, 11, 138, 140.
Thornber, Prof. John J., 177, 232.
Threshers, 164.
Tiburon Island, 302.
Timber, 2, 121.
Tobaror Tovar Ensign, 94, 254.
TOMBSTONE, 396, 407, 419-426.
Tombstone Epitath, 425.
Tonto Apaches, 69.
Basin, 12.
Creek, 6, 28, 334.
National Forest, 129.
Topock, 15.
T.-P. Mine, 202.
Trees of Arizona, 2.
Trifle, Gov. F. A., 227, 239.
Trifle, Mrs. F. A., 239.
Trogon, Coppery-tailed, 162.
Trumbull, Miss Rose, 274.
Tubac, 15, 48, 455.
TUCSON, DESERT LABORATORY,
319-328.
FARMS, THE, 220, 311-318.
Mines, 306.
Mountains, 306.
OLD AND NEW, 14, 15, 48, 271,
293-310.
Origin of Name, 299.
Panorama, 293 ft seq.
Sanitarium, 307.
Signal, 299.
Woman's Club, 240.
Tumacacori Mission, 15, 40, 267,
300, 455-
Tumble-Weeds, 188.
Tumcha Range, 5.
Turkeys, Wild, n, 135.
Tusayan National Forest, 127, 384.
Tusayan, Province of, 10, 68, 366.
U
United Verde Mines, 195, 200.
UNIVERSITY, THE STATE, 192, 224
-237.
Van Dyke, John C, 5.
Vaquero, El, 213.
Variety of Scenery, I.
Verbenas, Sand, 187.
Verde, Old Camp, 13.
River, 6, 12, 128, 202.
United Mines, 196, 200, 347.
Valley Ruins, 56.
Verdin, 166.
Villagra, 45.
Volcanoes in Arizona, 118.
Von Klein Smid, Pres. R. B., 233.
Voth, Rev. H. R., 258.
Vulture Mine, 199, 363.
W
Waco Bill, 296.
Walker Creek, 348.
Wallafais, 23, 169.
Walnut Canyon, 57, 63, 365.
Walpi, 21, 40, 46, 92.
Warblers, 162.
Warner Mine, 205.
Warren, George, 410.
Water Resources, 30.
Waterfalls in Havasu Canyon, 392.
Weavers, Navaho, 78.
Weaver -Placers, 204, 348.
Weeds, Various, 183.
Wetherill and Coville, 58, 59.
Wheeler, Mrs. J. W., 159.
When a Man's a Man, 272, 358.
Whipple's Explorations, 117.
Whipple's Fort, 347.
WHITE MOUNTAINS, 27, 64, 69, 133
-143.
White River, 138.
White River Falls, 142.
WlCKENBURG, ClTY OF THE HAS-
SAYAMPA, 359 — 364.
Mines of, 360.
Williams, 16, 379—392.
AND CANYON OF HAVASU,
379-392-
Fork, 28, 45.
Williams Mountain, 379.
View from, 381.
Williams, Perry M., Collection
Baskets, 80.
Willis, Charles F., 193.
Willow Desert, 178.
Willows, Nation of the, 13.
Winchester Mountains, 7.
Winkelman, 138, 40x5.
Winslow, 58, 63.
Winter Flora, 179.
Wister, Owen, 263, 269.
Withrow, Eva Almond, 277.
Wolfville Stories, 422.
WOMEN'S CLUBS OF ARIZONA, 238
-24S.
478
Index
Women's Clubs, Federation of, 243.
Woodpeckers, 163.
Wright, Harold Bell, 271, 358.
Wythe, Miss, 166.
Yavapai County Mines, 349.
YAVAPAI COUNTY, PRESCOTT AND,
346-358.
Yavapai, Mother of Counties,
346, 365-
Young, Etta Gifford, 273.
Yuccas, 169, 177, 179.
Yuma, 15, 16.
Indians, 23, 45, 68.
Zones of Arizona Topography, 152.
Zuni, 20, 38, 42, 47, 255.
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