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NVPL NESCMKtl UBRAMES
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STATISTICAL AND COMMERCIAL
HISTORY
OF THS
KINGDOM OF GUATEMALA,
CONTAINING
MPORTANT PARTICULARS RELATIVE TO ITS PRODUCTIONS,
MANUFACTURES, CUSTOMS, &c. &c &o.
WITH AN ACCOUNT op its
CONQUEST BY THE SPANIARDS,
AND A NARRATIVE OF THE PRINCIPAL EVENTS DOWN TO
THE PRESENT TIME: .
FROM OaiOIKAL HECOIIDS IN TH£ ARCHIVES ; AC^ALOBSBRVATXON;
AND OTHER AUTHENTIC SOXTItCES.
By don DOMINGO JUARROS,
A NATIVE OF NEW GUATElfALA.
Translated by J. BAILY, Lieutenant R.M.
EMBELLISHED WITH TWO MAPS.
PRINTED FOR JOHN HEARNE, 81, STRAND;
BY J. F. DOVE, ST. JOHN'S SQUARE.
1823.
...e.n.«..9 3 ^'-'^^
TO
THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE
VISCOUNT MELVILLE,
FIRST LORD OF THE ADMIRALTY,
&c. &c. &c.
My Lord,
Permission to lay before the Public an
English Version of the History of Guatemala, under
your Auspices, is an honour that calls forth my
anxiety as well as my gratitude ; the latter for your
condescension, and the former, lest the production
should not be found to merit such a ^distinction.
Sensible that the sanction of your Lord-
ship's name will draw attention toT^^ards any work it
is affixed to, I shall dee'm myself pocuHáBy-fortunate,
should the present one pass the ordeal pi public
examination, without subjecting me to censure for
having unworthily sought eminent patronage to an
undeserving performance.
I am.
My Lord,
Your Lordship's most obedient.
And very humble serv^mt,
J. BAILY,
JSktmihgtaH, January 1823. ^
PREFACE.
As Spanish America will probably, in a
short time, open a most extensive field for
the employment of British capital and Bri-
tish industry, and ultimately prove an inex-
haustible source of advantage to the various
branches of our manufactures and commerce,
every work, how humble soever its preten-
sions may be, that, upon good authority, can
iumisli something in addition to thfe very
slender stock of information we already pos-
sess, of any portion of that interesting Coun-
try, will, perhaps, be acceptable to the Public.
With the hope of contributing towards a
more general knowledge of the Kingdom of
Guatemala, the following Work has been
translated: should that hope be realized, the
prodiiction will be duly appreciated : on
the contrary, if nothing worthy of notice
be presented, it will share the fate of many
other books, and either be wholly neglected
or soon fdrgotten. The Author, Don Do-
mingo JuARROs, being a dignified Secular
VI
Ecclesiastic, and Synodal Examiner of the
Archbishopric of Guatemala :> his rank gave
him access to Records in the departments
of Government, as well as to those of the
different Convents : the exercise of his offi-
cbi daties occasioned him to visit vtarious
parts of the Country, which aflforded him
every fiacility of makiog observatiions upon
tíiem ; of the more remote districts, to which
personal inspection did not extend, his con*-
nexifon with the Clergy enabled him to ob-
tain accumte information ibom the heads of
the different Curacies, so that it may be
fairly said, his materials have been dtawti
from sources that stamp upon them the cha*
rajcter of authenticity : for these^ or for the
manner in which they have been usedj, the
Translator does not presume to solicit parti-
ciliar fkvouí ; they are submitted to the
tribunal of Public Opinion, before which,
tíb^ir merits, aini his own humble eflfortft to
make them known to the English reader,
will receive such an award ^s is impartially
due to them.
In a country where Catholicism governs
with autooratic despotism^ and where the
vil
genei^l mass of population possesses no
more o£ the lights of science, than the ruling
T^wer, for. reasons well adapted to preserve
an unlimited s:way, thinks proper to permiJ),
^ follows^ almost as a, matter of course,
that when, an Author, who is. a dignitary of
thte Church, writes a History of that Counv-
try^ hawr liberal soever in sentiment, and
little tinctured with bigotry he may be, the
minutite of religion will, from various and
^ery cogent causes, form, á prominent fear-
ture in his worlt ; and the original of the
present account abounds, in passages; of this
description : but as introduoing> thi» portion
of it into the Translation would have nearly
doubled the size, and cons^uentiy much in-
creased the price of the book, without con-
tributing to. make it more generally inte-
resting; many chapters have therefore been
entirely omitted : yet, that the reader may
not remain wholly uninformed of their import,
he is presented with the heads of some of
them, viz. Of the Metropolitan Church of
Guatemala, with a History of the Image of
Nuestra Señora del Socorro worshipped in
it, — Of the Convents in the City of Guate-
via
mala. — Of the Nunneries and Religious
Houses for Females. — Of inferior Religious
Orders or Fraternities. — Of the Parishes and
Chapels of the City, with their Religious
Festivals. — Of the Coronation of the Image
of St. Joseph.-^— Of Festivals celebrated in
the Cathedral. — A Chronological Account
of the Governors and Captains-General of
the Kingdom. — Idem of the Archbishops and
Bishops of the different Dioceses. — Idem of
illustrious Ecclesiastics, and other individuals
who have flourished in the Capital, — and se-
veral others of similar character.
Should the Volume be the means of excit-
ing diligent and scientific inquirers to .make
farther researches, in a Country that presents
so many objects worthy of careful investiga-
tion, the intent of its publication will be
amply fulfilled.
J. B.
y.^rr
155Í
/f*'
"i
^
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H
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s
9
0
STATISTICAL DESCRIPTÍÓN
GUATEMALA.
PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS.
The ioDumerable advantages^ and the great uti-
Kty resulting frooi tiie study of history, are uni-
versally acknowledged. It not only delights the
mind, by recounting the extraordinary events of
distant countries^ by relating the prowess of those
who have preceded us in the calendar of titoe,
and by recording the exploits of our ancestors ;
but it will teach us the manner in which we ought
to conduct ourselves on occasions of difficulty,
by holding up to view what prudent and sensible
Dden have done in similar circumstances ; it will
animate us to the performance of noble actions^
by setting before us the glorious examples of oul»
predecessors ; and it will eternize the memory of
heroes, long since withdrawn from the great
theatre of life, who by their achievements have
dignified the human race. From these advantages
the city of Guatemala has been hitherto excluded;
fts annals have found no recorder ; and its history
has had no existence, except in the earnest desire
of its trne patriots.*
Geography and chronology being indispensable
to our purpose, we will treat of them before en-
tering upon our historical part, in order th^t our
readers may set out upon a road provided with
every convenience for pursuing an unobstructed
journey. With this intention the following Pre-
liminary Treatises have been composed. In the
first, the history of Guatemafa will be commenced,
by giving a geographical description of the whole
kingdom ; in the second, this will be followed by
a chronicle, or chronological index of the rise,
progress, and incidents most worthy of notice,
and an accQ^n( qf the principa^ political bodies
of the chief city. These, it is hoped, will smooth
tl?e vmy fof pfriipn» who possess the requisite
talents, an4 sufficient store of ipi^ftnation, tp iju-
deirtake a work so much desired ^s Ihe Djstpry
Qf Guateinala, on a more extensive plap*
Iq prder that the information conveyed l^y tbft
eq suing pages may be distinguished by critip^l
ex^tness, recQurse has iU)t been bad iq boqk? 9^
geography s^pd geueral histories of the Indies;
works which, from their great extensioq, caunot
be free from mistakes and inaccuracies, bow care*
ful soever their authors may have been to avoi4
them ; but we have drawn our materials frons (he
chronicle of the provinces, from the records of
the Ponunican and Franciscan conyent^^ in th^
city of Gu^teiijiala, froip authentic mpnuscdptsf,
♦ The menarchs of Spaki have been 8o folly convinced of the
great mpoiti^n<;e of Ihi^ iubj^cl, tli^t %l^y hur^, nt ymm»
periods, commanded the history of the kingdom of Gus^tem^^
to be written, as appears from the Ordonnances of Dec. 19,
l&aa, Aug. 16, 1572, Sept. 23, 1580, and Feb. .18, l&él.
aod from the communications of persons whose
ireracity can be depended upon. But with all
these advantages we do not pretend to a total
exemption from errors, and some truing incor-
rectness ; for there are many causes which may
occasion mistakes in the relation of facts, when
the narrator has not been a witness to them ; and
in die description of conatries, if be has BOt tra-
velled over thenk Such causes arise from the
carelessness of informants, the insufficient expla-
nation of waiters, the ambiguity of terms by which
they cqmmunicate their ideas,, and the fallibility
of the human memory. The reader is entreated
to bear these in mind, if by chance he should
meet in the following treatises with any observa-
tions (hat may be found inaccurate.
fi 2
TREATISE THE FIRST;
Succinct Notices of the natural and political
History of the principal Places.
Towards the end of the fifteenth century, it
pleased divine Providence that the light of Chris-
tianity should dawn in the horizon of thf vast
regions of the west ; that the inhabitants of the
ancient continent should become ^acquainted with
the reality of millions of their own species, who,
in the judgment of many learned men, existed
only in the imagination of a few philosophic indi-
viduals ; and that a country should then be dis-
covered, which, for its immense extent, and the
rarity of its productions, received the name of the
New World. A discovery of so much importance
required that those who had made it, should im-
mediately commiunicate their good fortune to all
the world with the most scrupulous exactness ;
but although three centuries have elapsed, we see,
with the greatest astonish nient, that provinces,
and even whole kingdoms, on this spacious con-
tinent, are at this time as little known to the
world in general, as if they had but just bee» dis-
covered. This is the fact, not only in the Arctic
and Antarctic lands, where the Spaniards have
never set foot ; but it is the case also in those
countries which they have been in possession of
ever since their first arrival. With a blush for our
ignorance, we must reckon in the latter number
the kingdom of Guatemala, one of the richest ie
America, not so much from its mines of gold and
mher, as from the incredible numbers of useful
and rare productions in the animal, vegetable, and
mineral worlds that are found in it. To be con-
vinced of the truth of this assertion, it is only
necessary to open a book of geography, and we
shall perceive that provinces the most flourish-
ing, and places the most important, are not no-
ticed ; where towns are mentioned, it is scarcely
mpre than to record their names: the few that
are described in any thing like detail, are repre-
sented under so many circumstances of error and
falsehood^ as to remain as much unknown (so far
as their actual state is concerned) as they ever
were. How can this kingdom be known so fully
as it deserves to be, so long as there does not
exist a correct delineation of its provinces ? How
can such a description bé furnished by the inha-
bitants of the old world, when we, who have been
born and brought up in Guatemala, encounter
djflicultiés in acquiring correct information re-
lative to very many places within its boundaries?
These reflections have induced me to undertake
this task, notwithstanding iserious apprehensions
that my talents are too humble for the skilful per-
formance of such a work, as well aé the'cónvic-
tion of its remaining in some respects incomplete^
from the ciróumstance of niy being the first to at-
t^Bpt the subject ; but the want of a work of this
nature leads me to hope it may befayourably re-
ceived by the public. It has been 'my study to
avoid toó great a prolixity, and with this view a
detailed description of villages has been omitted ;
for it wpuld occasion numerous repetitioris^ and
produce a narrative at ^ttee insipid and «M)iid«-
ioBoüYs, 'as in facft they differ kmt very litde froA
each other; therefore sneli only as ofi«r some*
thing peculiar and worthy of being known wrll
meet with particular notice.
CHAP. I.
Of the Kingdom of Oualemdla in general.
This kingdom received its name of Guatemala
from the word Quanhtemali (which in the Mexi-
can language means a decayed log of wood), be-
cause the Mexican Indians» who accompanied
Alvarado, found near the court of the kings of
Kachiquel^ an old worm-eaten tree, and gave this
name to the capital. The Spaniards continued it
to the city which they built ; and from the city
they gave the same appellation to the whole king-
dom. Some writers have derived it from iJ-liate-
z-mal«ha, words that, in the Tzendal language^
signify a mountain that throws out water; doubt-
less alludiqg to the motintain on the skirts of
which the city of Guatemala was built. The
kingdom of Guatemala extends from the 82nd
to the 95th degree of longitude west of Green-
wich : and from the 8th to the 17th degree of
north latitude ; so that in length it is 13 degrees,
making 227 leagues (Spanish) of 17i to a degree,
or 260 English geographical leagues ; but the tra-
velling distance may be calculated at more than
700 Spanish leagues, from the Chflillo, which
bounds the territory of the audiencia of Mexico
to Chiriqui, where the jurisdiction of the province
of Santa Fé de Bogota terminates. It embraces
& degrees in breadth from the most southerly
lands of Í>o6ta Rjoa^ to the most northerly jmrt of
the province of Cbiapia. The range of the land
frofB one dea t(k tlie other, that is, from the Pacific
to the Athialtic, where i( is the greatest^ is 180
leagues ; and, where least, not less than 60. Oii
tbe westy the kiogdom of Guatemala is bounded
by the Intendei^ia of Oaxaca in New Spain, on
the nM>tthf«wést by the Intendencia of Yucatan,
on the southeast by the province' of Vera-gaas in
the kii^dom of Terra Firma, a district of the au-
diencia of Santa Fé; on the south and souths
Vest by the Pacific Ocean, and on the north by
the AUantic Ocean. Tbe jurisdiction of the
royal cfaancery of Guatemala, therefore, extendi
on the shores of the Atlantic from the coast of
Walls in the Bay of Honduraá, to the Escudo de
Veraguas ;♦ and from the bar of the river Parre-
doQ in the province of Soconusco, to the month of
tbe river Boruca^ in tlie province of Costa Rica
on tbe Pacific; and by land from the river Cbilillo
in tbe provinée of Oaxaca, to the district of Chiri*
qui in tbe province of Veragua»*
The air of this region is generally salui>rious,
eaioept oá the sea coast t6 the northward. Tbe
whole of the country is an alieraation of mouch
tmua and plains, whicb causes a diversity of tom^
peratáre higbly &vourable to the productkMls of
every cfa'mbte^ The soil is so fertile as to yield
fi!QÍts,oven on the mountains, withoué cultivation;
and so great is the variety, thiat there are reckoned
more f ban 40 genera ; and in many of these tber^
are distinct species. There are, for example, 3 spe¿
CÍ66 of plantain, 4 of apples, 5 of pineapples, 5
. * A small Assert iriand ti^r tbe ooast of the province of
Veraguas id 9 de^. 21 mio. north latitude, and 82 deg, 4^ miii*
west longitude : it was discovered by Columbus.
8
of peaches, 3 of sapotes, more than 10 of jocotes^
and. also of many others : from these advantages
there is always a great abundaoceof fraits in every
season of the year^ The species of flowers that
beautify the gardens are not less numerous ; and
the plenty of culinary vegetablea is equally copi-
ous. There is a great variety of grain, as the
maize^ which is so fruitful as to yield 100 for one,
and in some parts even 500 fold, besides pro-
ducing two, and sometimes three harvests a year;
wheats barley, rice, and sessamum, a soft of Indian
corn. Of pulsé, there are various species of
kidney beans, garbanzos, or-Spanish peas, lentils,
beans and several others: to speak generally, this
soil is not deficient in any thing, either for the
necessaries or for the luxuries of life.
Besides those just mentioned there are many
other productions that would supply the means
of carrying on an extensive commerce ; for in-
stance, a great number of very valuable woods,
such as cedar, caoba or red wood, granadillo,
ronrón, brasil, purple wood, mahogany, guayacan,
mangrove, and many others ; many medicinal
plants, ñ*uits, and woods, as jiote, palo de la vida,
copalchi, sarsaparilla^ hellebore, contrayerba,
musk, canchalagua, calaguala, tea, coffee, ginger,
mecboacan, julep, cassia, tamarinds, &c. A pro-
fusion of gums and balsams, estimable for their
Aragrance, curative virtues, or other uses; as tur-
pentine, Carana, Leche de Maria (a gum) dragons'
blood, amber, white and black balsam, and oil of
balsam ; a number almost infinite, of productions
ihat minister both to the necessities and the
luxuries of life: among them are cochineal, achiote,
pepper, lacre, bastan) saffron, chiapa pepper.
Tanilla, hides, sulphur/ saltpetre, sal ammoniac,
purple (from the murex), mother of pearl, tortoi-
«hell, cordage, sail cloth, cotton of various kinds,
jtobacco, and, above all, sugar, cocoa, and indigo.
/These are the principal articles of the commerce
of the: kingdom, and the two last are the best that
are known of their species.
The different kinds of animals bred in this
country aré almost innumerable; for besides nearly
all those common to Burope, and peculiar to
America; as the danta, the armadillo, the tepis-
quinte, the alligator, the guana, lories, and parrots
of various kinds and exquisite feather; there are
some that are peculiar to tliis region, as the zor-
rilla a small fox, and the quezal, a beautiful bird,
the plumage of which is highly esteemed.
The earth abounds with mines of gold, silver,
iron, lead, talc, and other minerals. There are
several volcanoes, from which, at various periods,
there have been many and great eruptions : the
most celebrated are those of Tajuraulco iii the
province of Quezaltenango; Atitanin the province
of Solóla; Guatemala in the province of Chimal-
tenango ; Pacaya in the province Of Sacatepe-
ques ; Izaico in ttie province of Zonzonate4 those
of St. Salvador, and St. Michael, in the inten-
dan'cy of St Salvador ; and thosje of Momotombo
and Mazaya in that of Nicaragua.
The kingdom is watered by rivers and small
streams iunumerable. Of these some disembogue
into the sea to the northward, and others to the
southward ; of the first, the most navigable : are
the Fresh Gulf, the Motagua, the Gama lecon,
the Ulua, the Lean or. Leones, the Aguan, the
Limones, the Rio tinto, the Plantain river, the
10
Pantasm», the Mo^aito, add the St. Juan.
Among the sMODd^ tbe principal d^e the Guisti^
the Sami^lá, the Xkale^» the Michatoyat^ the
Slave rÍYer, the Paza, th^ Zonzonate, tbe Lempa^
tbe Viejo, the Ntearagna^ arid the Nkoya. Therie
are also several lakes of which the i»08t céle-^
brated is the lake of Granada, the largest; the
Attta», the Peten^ and Amatitan.
This r^oü was formerly possessed by people
of nmny differ^at nations, each governed by its
ch^, and who were continually at war with each
etber ; hence it is that the present inhabitants
speak so many different languages ; some isHsriHg
the Mexican, others the Quiche, Kacfaiqnél, Sub*
tdjili MaiD) Pocomam» Poconchi, Chorti^ Sinca^
and many more* Altboegh these tribes are Of
diff^rei^ origin, various in their mann^*s^ opposite
ki their inclioátiofiíS) profess distinct faiths^ adopt
dissimilar customs, and spaak each its pecoliar
language^ yet at the present day they all concur
fttt the exercise of the Catholic retigioii, which is
the only ^^e professed throughout tbe provinoei^
with tbe exception of some few idolaters^ wbotai
all tbe efforts and zeal of the ministers of the gos^-
pel have not been able to* bring widmi the pale of
Christianity.
The principal pwtt of the Gmtnl^'y wad snbdued
in 1524, and foUtowing years, by Pedro de Alva-
rado. At that period it was more populous than
it now is; for by the oensus taken in t77&by
^der (^ tbe king, the population amounted to tíé
»ore than 797^214; whereas, at the time of the
conquest it was so numerous, that we are assured
it was imposed of more than 30 different na*-
tions«
n
Í8 adhbitíiMer^ by tíié i>ojui «awdieicia of QaH^
témftla, th<e pre&mknt of ^bich id foremor rad
0aptai£hgetieral of thé kmgdotn^ having a gveái
xmmhfit &i iútériM officers for tiie better regula^»
tíon of the protiDdes. The «plritfi&i affftirs aro
dhiBCted by the archbisbop <»f GUtat^naia and
three safiragans, except in the finiaU district <tf
Pe«et>^ which i8 tmdcfr the charge of the b}sh>op of
Ync&tati. The ecclesia^tit^ divi&fioti of the kitig^
dom oo«si0tsi of fo«ftr bishoprick&i/t^^. Guatemala»
I^M fit quality «of metropolitas e^teud^ over the
^erfcote kingdom ; btrt t)be peculk»* territory of the
ardibi6hopríck WOuatemaJa igt^etches 214 teagues
irwa tkie plaius of Motocititá, 4he tnost westerly
i^SRage'of thedioce^, to «be boundaries of the
tfuraey of CowciKaigiia, the most -easteriy; ^nd
216 tei^ues from tibe Fresh G>iilf o» the norths
ward to the shores of the Pacific southward.
Ill this district there are 108 curacies, 23 collated
CHr^ades of regulars^ 16 under charge of the Do-
ttddcaüs, 4 of the Frandscaws, and 3 of our Lady
of Mertsy ; 4f24 parochial churches, and 53d,765
iabtdbrrtants. This bishoprick was erected by Pope
Paúl the Third, by a bull bearing date December
18, 1Ó34 ; Ihom that period to the present time
the chair has been occupied by 7 archbishop»
aaá 16 bishops. The second bishoprick is Leooi
having jurisdiction over the intendancy oí Nica*
ragua, and the. government of Costa Rica : in it
there are 39 curacies^ 3 establishments for the
conversion of infidels, 88 parochial churches, and
131^932 inhabitants. From its erection to the
present time this diocess has had 37 bishops.
The third is Ciudad Real, its jurisdiction com-
12
préhends the three dii^isioos of the intendancy
of Cbiapa ; it coutaios 38 curacies, 102 parish
churches, aud 69,253 inhabitants. The fourth is
Comayaguá, the jurisdiction of which is confined
to the intendancy of Honduras ; within its terri-*
tory there are 35 curac^ies^ 1 establishment for
the conversion of infidelsr 146 parish churches^
and 88,143 .inhabitapta^*: .
The civil ^government of the kingdom is at pre-
sent divided into 15 prOvinices, of these 8 are su-
perior alcaldías^ viz. TotOnicapau, Solóla^ Chi-
maltenango, Sacatepeques, Zonzonate, Verapaz,
£sc\iintla, and Sucbiltepeques ; two are corregi-
dorships, Quezaltenaogo, and Chiquimul^ ; one a
government, Costa Rica; and four are intendan-
cies, Leon, Ciudad Real, Coraayagua^ and St.
Salvador. Five of these provinces are situated
on the shores of the Pacific; five on the Atlantic,
and five interior.
^ In computing the number of inhabitants of the kingdom,
parishioners of the diooess, and inhabitants of the provinces,
recourse has been had to the census taken by order of the King
of Spain in 1788, as being the. most recent and complete that
could readily be consulted, because it gives the niimbérs in the
separate. provinces and di^iripts* It may, however, be consi-
dered too low.; for, by comparing it with the enumerations
made by order of the bishops, there will be found a material dis-
crepancy; if we aidd tog'ethei^ the numbers of the different dis-
tricts of the bishoprick'of Comayagua in the royal census of
1778, the.amount will be no more than 81,143; whereas that
taken by order of the bishop in 1791, makes the number 93,501.
In Chiapa, in 1778, the number given was 62,263, but by a
census in 1796 it was 99,001 : similar increase has been per-
ceived in the other two diocesses. '
13
Of the Provinces oh Hie S^a Coast to the *
" Southward: ' ^ '^
Chiapa is the first province ÍD'tbis,dir,ect^^
proceeding íVooi New Spain. It is bounded on
the west by Oaxaca, on the east by Totpnicapan
and SuchiltepequeSy on the north by Tabasco^
on the north-east by Yucatan, and on the south
by the Pacific Ocean. It enjoys every kind of
climate ; its soil yields all the productions of the
kingdom, animal as well as vegetable ; and it also
produces the shrub which bears the Chiapa
pepper. Father Remesal asserts, that the nations
who inhabited this district came from^ the pro-
vince of Nicaragua, and intrenched themselves
so strongly here, that the kings of Mexico could
never succeed in subduing them. When the
Mexican empire fell, they spontaneously offered
themselves as vassal» to the king of Castile,
and in his name rendered homage to Ferdjnand
Cortes; but verjr soon after revolted. Cortes
sent Diego de Mazariegos with a small force
in 1524 to pacify them: in this object he easily
succeeded, though he. was scarcely returned to
Mexico before they again rebelled. In 1527,
Mazariegos came a second time to chastise them^
but they were not subdued without fighting se-
veral obstinate battles. From that period, there
reigned an uninterrupted peace between the
Spaniards and Indians of this part until 1712,
when the people of the province of Tzendales,
joining with those of Chiapa, amounting in all
to 32 towns^ formed an alliance against the
14
invaders, became apostates to the faith they
had long professed, profaned the sacred edifices,
put many ministers of the gospel to crnel deaths,
paid impious aidoratioa to au lodiaii female, and
committed many other atrocities. By the zealons
exertions of Toribio Cosio, president of the
royat audiencia, who set out immediately from
Guatemala, with a well-appointed force, the
whole of the revohed towns were recovered to
the Catholic faith, and the former peace and
tranquillity restored. Thi« important service
was rewarded by bis n^ajesty'Ss conferring the
title of Marquis of Torre Campo upon the pre-
sident. On the 2Ist of November, the day on
which the victory was obtained, there is annually
celebrated a solemn thanksgiving in the cathe-
drals of Guatemala and Ciudad Real^ at whiqh
all the constituted authorities attend.
What now forma the intendancy of Chiapa,
was, in the period of its Paganism, divided into
five provinces, peopled by as many different na-
tions, who have, to the present day, preserved
their: distinct idioms, viz. Chiapa, LI'anos, Tzen-
diales, Zoques, and Soconusco. Of the fast, the
Spaniards formed the government of Soconusco ;
and of the other four the alcaldía' m^yor of
Ciudad Real : by a royal order in the year 17({4,
the latter was again subdivided to form the al-
caldia mayor of Tuxtla, which is composed of
the districts of Chiapa and Zoques ; whilst those
of Llanos and Tzendafes remain to that of Ciu-
dad Real. In 1790, the intendancy of Chiapa
was created, »nd these three district^ were
united under the jurisdiction of the jntendant,
who resides in Ciud^id Real, and has a deputy
u
im ea^ti of the places, Tuxtía^ Soeonuseov and
GcHDitaq.
Th/e first dtViaUm^ or that of Ciudad Rral, con-r
taina 1 m^y, which is the capital, and the oaly
000 of the provinee, 1 tows, and 60 tillages;
tba$6 arq dÍ¥Ídad into 20 curacies, and all together
contain a population of 40,277 souls.
Ciqdad Real is the capital of this diirision of
the iaténdancy, and of the bishopriok of Cbiapa.
It was foundod by Diego de Mazariegos with
the view of l^oeping in subjection tíie proYÍnce,
which with so much difficulty he had reosYored.
On the 4tb of March, 1528^ this commander afrr
Sduibled tbe chiefs of his army» and apptointed 3
akaldeis, 6 regidors, a chief alguacil, a majorT
doofto, and a procurator. On the 31st of tbo
same month the naw town was begun on the spot
whene the city now stands. It waa ai first calkd
YjyUa, Bfial> then Villa Viciosa, anid afterward
YiUa de St Christoval da loa Uanoa» by wUcii
litóme it is mentioned in soixie public docuaienta in
<¥^ year I53l : finally^ by an order» dated 7lb July^
ldp<$»tbe Emperor Charles the Fifth conuoandied
a ahoul4 be called Ciudad BeoU and granted to
it tliQ hononrs of a city ; the preceding year he
b^d assigned to it armorial hearings, mz. a sbi^v
with a irii^fr between, two mountains^ upon one of
thwk a (^latle, Or^ and a lion rampant ; on the
^HMfiiit of the other a palm-itree, Vert, and an»
«their lion ; the whole upon a field» Gulea The
«bvreh of Villa Real was dedicated to the An-t
mMtjiation of the Yii^n^ but when tbe name of
tha towu. was changed to St. Christoval^ tbe same
9^p^Uatian was given to the church ; Pope Paul
the. Third elevated it to die episcopal dignity, adK)
16
tiomiuated the lic^ntiate/Juan Artea^a^s^. friar o(
the order of Saint Jago, as the first bishop. For
the service of the church there is > á cb^ter,
composed of' a. 'déáp, an árchdeacotí, a ^reéefi^xj
an instrnctor of th^ ctergy ^maestre escuela), > and
a canon ; there «aré also a curate-rector, a oht^f
sacristan, 6 chaplains, and 4 acolytes; there i»
a collie, whkli is' a^qaagnificent building, ahd
a very handsoine chapeL The city contains ^buSt*
one parish, that of the cathedral; it has four
convents, viz. our Lády of Mercy, founded in
the year 1537 ; St Domingo, in 1545 ; St. Fran-
cisco, established iñ 1575 ; and St. Juan de Dios,
the hospital of which was built by Juau Bautista
Alvares de Toledo, bishop of Chiapa ; and the
convent of La Concepción, for females ; there
was also a college of Jesuits. Besides these
there is a church dedicated to our Lady of Cha-
rity ; without the city there are two oratories, one
of St. Nicholas^ the other of St. Christbptier;
and 5 barrios, or wards of the Indians, with their
respective chapels. The population is small,
being only 3333 individuals, and about 500 In-
dians in the barrios.' In this city were born
Frandi^co Salcedo, of the order of St. Fran-
cisco, Who was highly esteemed for his sanctity»
and of whom, by a certain class of people, many
miracles are related ; and Diego del Saz, of the
same order, a man of most exemplary virtue,
whose body is said, on the same authority as the
preceding miracles, to have remained 50 years
uncorrupted after its interment. In the vicinity
of the city there are several caverns, where very
beautiful specimeus of stalactites^ are found.
Ciudad Real is situated in 16 deg. 35 min. of
17
north lat. and 94 deg. 16 mio. long, west from
Greenwich; distant 130 leagues north- west of
Guatemala.
St* Fernando de Guadalupe, a town situated
on the bank of the river Tulija, nine leagues
distant from Túmbala; its population is rather
more than 200 Indians, with a few Spanish and
Mulatto families. The soil is fertile, and well
suited to the cultivatiou of cocoa, sugar^ pepper»
and many other articles; the river supplies an
abundant variety of fish ; the climate is hot, but
by no means in the extreme. The town was
founded by the intendant Don Agustine de las
Cuentas Zayas, in the year 1794, with the view of
facilitatiqg the navigation of the Tulija, and, by
its means, of opening a communication with
Campeche, the lake of Términos, the garrison of
Carmen, and other contiguous ! points : the suc-
cessful progress of this design during the firstsix
years has clearly shewn the advantages of the un-
dertaking.
St. I>omingo Sinacantan, a very ancient village,
that formerly belonged to the Mexican empire,
and from which the Mexicans directed their
attacks upon the Chapanecos ; contains about
2000 inhabitants. . In the vicinity of this place
there is found a species of small stones of a steel
colour, and of a cubic figure, two or three lines
in length, called St Anne's stones ; they are very
medicinal, and it is asserted that persons suffer-
ing under hysterical affections, receive relief from
drinking water in which they have been boiled.
St. Jusin Cham u la, a village remarkable only
for its numerous population, which exceeds 6000
persons.
c
18
St. Bartholomew de los Uaeos i» also a wetj
lar^ Tillage ; it has two churches, and the popH^
lation, including that of some contiguous culti-
vated possessions, amounts to 7410 so«ils.
St. Domingo' Comitan, is the residence ef tkie
deputy4ntendant of the province, and celebrated
for its coi«fiierce; Hiere is a good convent of th«
Dominicans ; with the inhabitants of some nei^
bouring plantations the population amounts to
0815 persons.
St. Jacinto Ocosingo, chief place of the pro-
vjiice of Tzendales, has more than ^K)0 inha-
bitants.
St. Domingo Palenque a village in the pro-
vince, of Tzendales, on the borders of theinten-
4aii€Íes of Ciudad Real and Yucatan. It is the
bead of acuracy; in a wild and salubrious climate,
but very tiikily inhabited, and now cetebrated
from having within its jurisdiction the vestiges of
a very opulent city, which has been named Ciu-
dad del Palenque ; doubtless, formerly tbe capital
of an empire whose history no longer exists.
This metropolis, — like another Herculanenm, not
indeed ov^erwhelnied by the torrent of another
Vesuvius, bnt concealed for ages in the midst
of a vast desert, — remained unknown until the
middle of the eighteenth century, when some
iSfMiniards having penetrated the dreary solitude,
iWnd themselves, to ^beir great astonishment,
witbia sight of the remains of what once batdbeen
ai superb city, of six leagues in circumference;
the solidity of its edifices, the stateliness of its
paJaces, and tbe magnificence of its public
WQfks, were not surpassed in importance by i*s
vast extent ; temples, altars, deities, scutptnres»
19
and monumental stones, bear testimony to its
great antiquity. The hieroglyphics, symbols,
and emblems, which have been discovered in the
temples, bear so strong a resemblance to those of
the Egyptians, as to encourage the supposition
that a colony of that nation may h^ve founded
the city of Palenque, or Culbuacan. The same
opinion may be formed respecting that of Tulhá,
the ruins of which are still to be seen near the
village of Ocosingo in the same district.
DISTRICT OF TUXTLA.
The second division of the province of Chiapa
is that of Tuxtia, which has been before n>eii-
tioned as having formed part of the alcaldía
mayor of Ciudad Real, and afterward consti-
tuting a separate alcaldía; it is now a sub-
delegation of the intendancy of Chiapa, contain-
ing 19,898 inhabitants, distributed into 33 villages»
which form 13 curacies.
The most considerable village in this district if»
Tuxtia, the chief place, and residence of the al-
calde mayor, who is coadjutor of th^ deputy-in-
tendant. The population consists of a few fa-
milies of Spaniards, some of Mulattoesy and a
much greater number of Indians, the whole
amounting to 4280^ persons. There are here a
dj^tom-house, a post-ofl5ce, and a manufactory
of tobacco. It is 140 leagues distant from Gua-
temala and 18 from Ciudad Real.
Chiapa de Indios, a very ancient and large vil-
lage, founded by Diego de Mazariegos in 1 527. It
has two churches, and contains 1568 inhabitants.
Tecpatlan, capital of the province of the Zo-
ques has 2290 individuals.
c2
20
DISTRICT OF SOCONUSCO.
The third division of this province is Soco-
nusco. It extends 58 leagues along the shores of
the Pacific, from the plains of Tonalá, that border
upon the jurisdiction of Teguantepeque, to the
river Tilapa, which divides it from Suchiltepe-
ques; its breadth ranges from the sea to the
mountains, which, where greatest, is about 16
leagues. The climate is extremely hot ; the coun-
try level, pleasant, and fertile ; it is watered by
15 rivers, that increase the fruitfulness of it to a
great degree; yet, from want of hands, very little
of the land is under cultivation, consequently its
precious productions are taken but little advan-
tage of. It abounds in woods of the most exqui-
site kinds, delicious fruits, and medicinal plants :
indigo, achiote, vanilla, leche de maria (a vaiu-
able gum), cotton, pita (a species of flax), and a
great many different sorts of drugs. The prin-
cipal articles of the commerce now carried pn> are
cocoa, the most esteemed of any in the kingdom,
and fish caught in the rivers, and on eight fishing-
banks 0Ú the coast. There is also some salt manu-
factured; and that produced upon the^state called
St. Paul, where no other process than condensing
the water is required, is as good as the most cele-
brated of Teguantepeque. In proportion as the
valuable products of the earth in this beautiful
country are numerous, the abundance of wild
beasts and reptiles^ is so great as to render it tn^
* AnioDg the innumerable reptiles that infest the province of
Soconusco, and others on the coast of the Pacific, there is a spe-
cies of wasp called Ahorcadoras Thangers), which deserves parti-
cular mention, from the singularity of the only remedy for pre-
21
tolerable and almost uninhabitable. This was
the first province in the kingdom that Pedro de
AI varado conquered in 1524; it originally ap-
pertained to the jurisdiction of the audiencia
of Mexico, but in 1553 it was transferred to that
of Guatemala. It contains 20 villages, and se-
veral plantations, forming together 5 curacies;
the number of inhabitantis amounts to 9078. The
vernacular language of Soconusco is the Mam»
but the natives generally speak the Spanish.
St. Domingo Escuintia is now the head of a
curacy ; it was formerly the residence of the go-
vernor, and then of the inteudant's deputy, until the
year 1794, when a violent tempest destroying the
cacaguatales or cocoa plants, and other trees, the
commerce and population were both so mych di-
minished, that the sub-intendant removed to Ta-
pacbula^ a village that carries on a moderate
commerce, and contains about 2000 inhabitants
of all casts.
The province of Chiapa lies between M deg.
40 min. and 17 deg. 30 min. north lat., and 93 deg;
16 min. and 95 deg. 46 min. west long. : in which
space there are 1 city, 1 town, 1 valley, and 109
villages : the whole population is 69,253 souls.
THE PROVINCE OF SUCHILTEPEQÜES.
The second province, in travelling from west
to east, is Suchiltepeques ; bounded on the west
by Soconusco, on the east by Escuintia, on the
north by Quezaltenango, on the north-east by So-
lóla, and on the south by the Pacific : its length by
.Tenting the death of persons who are stung by them, which is to
plunge the sufferer immediately into the water; or to compress
the throat in the manner of hanging, until he is nearly esLhausted.
22
the coast is 32 leagues ; and the breadth frofn the
sea to the mountains 22 ; but all the villages are
contained within the small space of 12 leagues;
there were formerly many more, and much more
populous than they are at present; for it only
contains 8 curacies, formed by 16 villages; and
the inhabitants of these, of the salt-works, farms,
and manufactories, do not exceed 15,000. The
climate is warm, but less so than that of Soco-
nusco. The province is watered by 16 rivers ; of
these the Sámala^ that runs through the districts
of Quezaltenango and Totonicapan, and the Na-
gualate, that discharges itself into the sea, under
the name of the Xicalapa, are the most important.
It is fertile from its situation and abundance of
water, and well wooded ; it produces all the
fruits, timber, gums, and medicinal plants, pecu-
liar to the climate ; but the chief article of com-
merce is cocoa, so excellent in quality as to be
preferred by many to that which is produced in
Soconusco. The cultivation of this valuable
commodity is materially decreased since the pro-
vince of Caraccas has been the great mart for it ;
but recently it has been attempted to bring back
the traffic to its ancient footing, and not with^
out success, as former harvests only produced
about 4000 loads, and the last yielded half as much
more, or 6000. The people of Suchiltepeques
also trade in cotton and sapuyul.* The Quiche
* Sapuyul is the kernel of the sapote, a fruit about six inches
in length ; the kernel, which is from two to three inches, is en-
closed in a shell, like a filbert ; around the shell there is a pulp
of a fine scarlet colour, as beautiful to the eye as it is delicious
to the taste ; over this there is a hardish rind. The Indians and
poor people mix the sapuyul with cocoa to make chocolate. The
abundance of sapotes is so great in this province, that the fruit
27
jnotber-churcfa ; its popuMion is now 1720 Iii-
ilians, 18 Spaniards, and 346 Ladinos ; it is the
head of a curacy, and was anciently the capital of
the alcaldia mayor of Guazacapata, which com-
prised a part of the villages of this province ; but
about the middle of the la^t century it was added
to Escniatla.
Santa CruzChiqiiimula, two leagues from Gua-
zacapan, although the least ancient, is now the
most papulous place of the district ; it contains
iieveral families of Spaniards, 1108 Ladinos, and
6144 Indians, who are chiefly employed in the
cultivation of rice, with which they supply the
capital.
THE PROVINCE OF ZONZONATE
Is the fourth, and, unlike the foregoing, is of
very small extent, being only 18 leagues from east
to west, and 13 from north to south; but it is
very populous, reckoning 24,684 inhabitants, in
one town, and 21 villages, which form 8 curacies.
It is bounded on the. south by the Pacific ; by the
province of Escnintla on the west; by St. Salva-
dor on the east ; and by St. Salvador and Chiqui-
uiula on the north. The climate is very hot, its
productions all those peculiar to such a tem-
perature, and of the best qualities; its principal
branches of trade are balsam, turpentine, gum
lac, amber, and other resins; it yields also cotton,
cocoa, sugar, indigo, sessamum, and rice; a con-
siderable trade is likewise carried on in mats,
that are woven of different colours by the natives,
and used in Guatemala for covering rooms, &c.
In this province stands mount Izalco, a volcano,
well known for its repeated eruptions; that
28
which took place in April 1798, was. very violent,
and lasted several days. The principal rivers of
this province are, the Paza, which divides it from
Et^cuintla, and another called Rio Grande, fornn-
ed by almost innumerable springs of water, which
have occasioned the name Zezontlatl to be given
to a town situated on its bank ; this name in the
Mexican languages means 400 springs of water;
by corruption of the word, the town is now called
Zonzonate.
Santissima Trinidad de Zonzonate, the capital
of the province, is situHed on the Rio Grande; it
is a pleasant town, although the climate is very
hot ; here the alcalde mayor resides ; there are
also royal magazines and a treasury. The town
council is composed of 2 alcaldes, a standard-
bearer, a chief alguazil, a provincial alcalde, and
a syndic. There are 441 Spaniards, 2795 Ladinos,
and 165 Indians. Each of the orders of St. Do-
mingo, St. Francisco, St. Juan, and La Merced,
has a convent here. The church is very spacious;
besides vjrhich there are three oratories, viz. Vera
Cruz, Calvary, and our Lady of Pilar. On the
opposite side of the river it has a suburb called
the Barrio del Angel, in which there is a chapel ;
the communication between the town and suburb
is by means of a stone bridge ; in the vicinity
there are 3 small Indian villages, numei'ous cot-
tages, and also gardens for the recreation of the
people of the town, which is situated in 13 deg.
35 min, north lat., and 90 deg. 26 min. west long.;
distant 45 leagues from the metropolis.
Acajutla, a port, or rather an open bay. without
shelter. 4 leagues distant from the town of Zon-
zonate : which, notwithstanding the difficulties
29
and badness of the coast, is the anchoring place
for ships coming from Peru with freights of wine,
brandy, oil, raisins, olives, skins, and other pro-
duce ; in return for these they take away indigo,
sarsaparilla, naphtha, tar, and other commodities
of the country, in which this province carries on a
very considerable comu^erce.* The place was
discovered by Pedro de A) varado, in bis voyage
to Peru in 1534.
Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion Aguachapa is
one of the best villages of the province, carrying
on a considerable trade; the population is 164
Spaniards, 1383 Ladinos, and 2500 Indians : in
the vicinity there are several manufactories of
sugar, which is esteemed the best of the kingdom.
Izalco was formerly so populous a place, that
by an order of the king two curates were ap-
pointed to it, each with his parochial church, the
first called the Assumption, and the second our
Lady de los Dolores ; at present the population
is diminished, but even now it exceeds 6000
souls.'
THE PROVINCE OF ST. SALVADOR.
The fifth province is St. Salvador, or Cuscatlan,
which word, in the language of the country, signi-
fies the ** Land of Riches ;" it was conquered in
1525 by Pedro de Alyarado, but the Caciques
having revolted, were again reduced to subjection
in the following year by the same commander,
* At the solicitation of Don Juan Bautista Irisarr^^ it is in
contemplation to build a town near this port, to encourage the
navigation of the South Sea, which is capable of producing so
much advantage to the kingdom. By an act of the 5th Feb.
1802, the superior government granted permission to carry the
design into effect, and committed the execution of it to Irisarry.
30
on bid return from Honduras ; and because the
victory, that completed the final conquest, was
acbieyed on the 6th of August, the day on tvhich
the festival of the transfiguration is celebrated by
the church, the principal city was called St. SaU
vador. For the same reason the royal standard
is on that day carried in procession, with all
the pomp and accompaniments peculiar to many
places of America ; the sword of Pedro de Alva-
rado^ that is carefully preserved in the Mexican
village, is also carried in triumph. The celebra-
tion of this ceremony is now transferred to Christ-
mas, because the 6th of August is in the rainy
season, when the principal persons of the city are
absent. The province of St. Salvador is 50 leagues
long, and 30 broad ; bounded on the west by Zon-
zonate ; on the east and north by Comayagua ;
north-west by Ghiqnimula, and on the south by
the Pacific. It is more numerously peopled than
any other province of the kingdom, as the number
of inhabitants amodnts to 137,270 Spaniards and
people of colour, dwelling in 2 cities, 4 towns,
121 villages, several valleys and estates. The
Indians of this district are highly civilized, and
all speak the Spanish language. The most valu-
able trade of the whole country 'is carried on
here, the.principal branch of which is indigo, now
become almost exclusively a production of this
province; for although in the others already de-
scribed, there were several manufactories where it
was prepared, at present there is but a small por-
tion of it produced out of this district. The cli-
mate is warm ; the soil yields all kinds of fruits,
woods, gums, animals, and other commodities
peculiar to the coast; its mines afford silver,
31
iroD, lead^ ochre, gypsum, and bole armoniac;
ftsh is abundantly supplied by the beautiful lake
Texacoangos, another called Gilopango^ aod
many riven;, among which is the Lempa/ the
largest of the kingdom, which taken at its lowest
ebb exceeds 140 yards in breadth. Within the
jurisdiction of the province is the Balsam coast,
where the tree i)roducing that precious liquor
grows in great abundance: in quality it is the
richest and best known, consequently most
highly esteemed in all parts of the world.*
This region is governed by an intendant, who re-
sides in the district of San Salvador, and has a
deputy resident in each of the other three, mz. St.
Michael, St. Vincent, and St. Anne ; there is also
a deputy in each of the villages, Saeatecoluca and
Chalatenango.
DISTRICT OF ST. ANNE.
In continuing the former course, that is, from
west to east, the first district in this province is
that of St. Anne ; it contains 6 curacies composed
of 19 villages, which together include a popula-
tion of 11,000 souls. The climate is milder than
any other of the intendancy. Its chief commerce
depends on sugar, some indigo, cattle, and sheep.
The principal place is Great St. Anne's, so called
to distinguish it from others of the same name,
* This has always been so highly esteemed, that in 1562 Pope
Pius the Foarth, and in 1571 Pius the Fifth, granted permission
that the American balsam might be used in the consecration of
the holy chrism. This valuable plant not only yields the white
and black balsam, but a .nut, from which the oil of balsam
is extracted, and flowers, from which the spirit of balsam
(aguardiente de balsamo) is drawn ; it also produces the sub«
stance that the liquor called balsamillo is made of: they are all
eminently serviceable in medicine.
32
as M^ell asi from its numerous population, which
exceeds 6000 persons; of these 338 are Spa^
niards, 3417 Ladinos, and the remainder In-
dians.. The deputy^ntendant resides here. It
has a spacious church and a post-office, and is
also the station of a regiment of militia of 567
men. It is 45 leagues from the metropolis.
Chalchuapa is a large well-built village, of
good proportions, with a mixed population of
Spaniards, Ladinos, and Indians, whose prin-
cipal occupation is breeding hogs.
St. Pedro IVf atapas is the best town in the dis-
trict; the church is a very handsome edifice,
Jiighly adorned, and richly endowed. It is the
chief place of a curacy, containing 4000 inha-
bitants; of whom 400 are Indians, who dwell in
a part distinct from the others. It is governed by
two Spanish alcaldes, nominated by the intendant.
The commerce of this place is in indigo, sugar,
maize, and various other productions. In the
envij'ons there are five iron founderies, which an-
nually produce upwards of 1500 quintals. The
lake Guija is about 2 leagues distant from the
tovvn ; the length of it is about 8 leagues, and
breadth 3; affording an abundant supply of mo-
harra, and other kinds offish: the river Lempa
takes its source from this lake.
DISTRICT OF ST. SALVADOR.
The next and principal district of the province
is St. Salvador, containing the capital and 50
other towns jind villages, divided into 11 cura-
cies, and peopled with 68,660 souls. It has
been already said, that all the productions of
warm climates grow in this [Province; but its
55
IraJe is principally confined to the cuítiva-
tion of indigo, to which indeed the inhabitants
devote their attention almost so exclusively as to
neglect the growth of other articles of the first
necessity. The city of St. Salvador, situated in
13 deg. 36 rain, north lat. and 89 deg. 46 rain,
west long, is the capital ; it stands in a delightful
valley, surrounded by mountains covered with
wood, which terminate on the north-east in a vol-
canOy that at different periods has caused great
devastation by its eruptions. The city was trans*
ferred to the site it now occupies, about 10 oí
12 years after it had been established on a spot
called the Bermuda. It was founded in 1528;
with the rank of a town, by order of George de
Al varado, then lieutenant of his brother Pedro,
and was intended to keep the province of Cus-
catlan in subjection. With this design he sent
Diego de Alvarado, as alcalde mayor, and lieu*^
tenant of the captain-general, with several other
officers of rank, from the city of Guatemala ; who
having fixed, upon a spot proper for building á
town^ laid the foundation of it on the 1st of
April, 1528; when Diego de Alvarado, 2 al-
caldes, a chief alguacil, and 6 regidors, nomi-
nated by George de Alvarado, entered upon their
respective offices. The town having increased
considerably, the Emperor Charles V. fey a de*
cree, dated Sept. 27, 1545, granted to it the ho-
nours and rank of a city. The church was dedi-
cated to St. Salvador, and Father Pedro Ximenes
was. the first curate appointed to it ; at present it
is served by 2 curate rectors. In addition to the
church there are four oratories, viz. Calvary, St.
JBstevaq^ St. Luciai. and the presentation of the
Sé
Virgin : in the latter, an image of the Virgin Mwf
and Child is adored by the people, and supposed
to be a powerful auxiliary to the city under every
public calamity. There are 3 convents, the Do^
minican, founded in 1551 ; the Franciscan, in
1574; and La Merced, in 1623: belonging to
these, and to the church, there are no less than
eo religious fraternities. The intendant, his asr
«essor, the royal treasurer, and public accountant^
reside here. There are a post-oflSce, custom-
house, factory of tobacco, and consular deputar
tion, 2 battalions of regular militia, amounting to
1534 men, embodied in the year 1781, and a town
counciK The inhabitants amount to 614 Spaniards^
10,860 Ladinos, and 585 Indians. The streets
run in right lines, the houses are commodious^
and the market well supplied. Distant 60 leagues
E. S. E. from Guatemala. The principal town$
of the district are Nejapa, Tejutia, St. Jacinto»
Suchitoto, Cojutepeque, Texacuangos, Olocuilta^
Tonacatepeque, Cbalatenango, and Masagua, all
of them heads of curacies, served by secular mir
liisters.
ST. VINCENT
Is the third district of the province, comprehencb-
fng 5 curacies, in vrhich there are 20,310 inhabt-
tonts dM^elling in the chief town; the town of
Titiguapa, 12 villages, various dispersed farms
and manufactories. The warmth of the climate
2S rather more intense than in the preceding pro#-
viipice. Its trade is limited chiefly to tobacco an^
dying materials.
St. Vincente de Austria^ or Lorenzana, is the
^ief .town of the district, Alvaro dé Quiñoneé
35 .
Oserio^ president of the royal au^ietlcia, settled i4
with a number of Spanish families in 1638; an4
ia reward for tliist service, the king created him
marquis of Loreúzana, which title, at his death,
cfcescended to his son, Diego de Quiñones, who,
by virtue of it, nominated a judge, for the due
administration of justice in the tpwn; but tbid
appointment was annulled by a decree of the so-
vereign, dated April 30, 1643, as the civil juris-
diction properly belonged to the alcalde mayor
of St. Salvador. *The*town of St. Vincent is 74
leagues from Guatemala, between the cities of
St Salvador and St Michael ; 14 leagues east of
the former, 23 west of the latter, and in 13 dcg*
of north lat. ; situated on the skirts of a loftjt
mountain, the ascent to the summit of which is
» at least 2 leagues. At the base of this mountain
there are several caverns, wherein are some warm
springs, the waters of which are extremely fetid,
and burst forth with an incredible noise. Two
deep rivers nearly cjrcgmvallate the town, one on
the north side, and the other on the south. The
climate is warm and humid, but healthy. Th^
principal church is sufficiently ample, being abou,t
fO yards in length: a short distance from it there
is another^ dedicated to our Lady del Pilar, whicl^
has three vaulted aisles of beautiful architecture
find costly decoration, though now a little dilapi-
dated ; it was built at the sole expense of a de^
vout private gentleman, Don Francisco de Quin-
tanilla. A little farther to the westward stands
the oratory of Calvary, and there is a Convent of
Franciscans now building. It has a town councih
The population is qo^po^ed oí 573 families, 41,
D 2
S6
of which are Spaniards (218 ÍDdÍYÍ(luaIs), and 477
of Ladinos (3869 individuals).
Sacatecoluca is the largest village in this dis*
trict^ and one of the finest in the kingdom ; it is
situated at the base of the volcano of St. Yincent,
directly opposite the town of St. Vincent, which
is on the north side of it» The population is
Families.
Individuals.
Spaniards 62
209
Ladinos 902
3087
Indians 299
1592
There are 2 Spanish, 2 Ladino, and 1 Indian aU
caldes, for the administration of justice in their
respective casts.
Apastepeque, a large village, celebrated for m
fair held on the 1st of November, for the sale of «
dying woods, &c. It is about a league from the
town of St. Vincent, on the skirts of the same
mountain, in a mild climate. It is the residence
of a few Spanish families. At present it is the
head of a curacy, formed in 1774, previous ta
which period it was annexed to the church of SU
Vincent.
Istepeque^ a village celebrated for its tobacco^
which is deemed the best of any produced in the
kingdom. .
Tepetitan, a village adjoining to Istepeque^
here there is a royal factory of tobacco.
ST. MICHAEL
Is the fourth and most easterly district of the
province, bounded on the north by Comayagua,
on the east by Cholultecar» on the west by St
ST
Vincent, and'oii the south by the Pacific. The
climate is intensely hot and insalubrious^ in
.consequence the po ulation, at present, falls
short of what it formerly was; there are, how-
ever, now 35;300 inhabitants in the city of St^
Michael, the towns of St. Alexis, and ChapeU
tique;- 40 villages, and some dispersed farms,,
which altogether form 7 curacies. The trade of
this division consists generally of indigo and to-
bacco. On the coast there are 2 ports, one called
Jiquilisco, the entrance to which is 6 league»
eastward of the bar of the river Lempa : it is shut
in by several islands, that shelter and defend the
anchorage. Many persons suppose this to be the
Bay of Fonseca, discovered in 1522 by Gil Gon-
zales Davila. The other called Conchagua, a
large bay, capable of receiving ships of any ton-
nage, is situated on the boundary between thia
district and Cholulteca. The capital is the city
of St. Michael, in 12 deg. 60 min. north lat., arid
86 deg. 46 min. west long. Luiz de Moscosa
founded it in 1530, with the privileges of a town,
by command of Pedro de Alvarado ; and in the^
year 1599, it was advanóed to all the honours o£
a city. It has a good church, decorated with»
costly ornaments ; 2 convents, one of the order o£
St. Francis, and another of La Merced ; I ora-
tory, and a town council. The population amounts
to 5539 souls, viz. 239 Spaniards, and 5300 La-
dinos. It is 12 leagues from the sea,; 37 from St«
Salvador, and 97 from Guatemala.
- St. Juan Ghinameca» the head of a curacy, is á
large place, chiefly inhabited by Ladinos,* whose
number exceeds 2400. It enjoys a fine air and
most agreeable temperature, the soil around it pro-
itacés all thé species of grain, fruit, and vegé-~
tables peculiar to oiild climates ; and with these
Goramodities it supplies the city of St. Michael.
The Estanzuelas, a small establishment of La-
dinos and Mulattoes. It is only remarkable for
a mineral spring, the waters of which will petrify
the leaves of trees, or whatever falls into it
CHAP. III.
Of the Jive Provinces situated on the Shores of
the Atlantic Ocean.
PROVINCE OF VERA PAZ.
Pursuing a course from west to east, the first
province to the northward is Vera Paz, called by:
the Indians Tezulutlan: it was, at first, named
by the Spaniards Tierra de Guerra, or thé Land;
of War, from the warlike spirijt of the natives,
whom they were unable \o subdue by arms,»
ttiough the attempt was repeatedly made. Charle»
the Fifth bestowed on it the name of Vera Paz,
because it embraced Christianity only from hear-;
ing the gospel preached. The religious fathers
of St. Domingo undertook this diificult conquest
in the year 1537, and by 1552 had brought nearly
all the province under the dominion of the church.:
They then entered the province of Acala, and
pursued their pious labours ; but, in 1555, Fathers
.Domingo Vico, and Andres Lopez, fell martyrs
to their holy zeal on the 29th of November, In
1603, and following years, the Dominicans con-
verted the province oCMa^iqhé, contiguous to Vera!
Paz, and the inhabitants of 8 villages received the
sacrament of baptisni. In 1674, 1675, and 1676^
39
fhe fathers of the same order made several other
attempts to convert another nation, called Chol^
situated to the north-east of Vera Paz, with so much
success^ that 2346 natives were baptized, and set*
tied in 1 1 villages ; but the new disciples soon after
Mrithdrew to the mountains, where they remained
tintil the year 1688, when the alcalde mayor of
the province undertook an expedition to their
retreats in search of them, brought back such
as he met with, and afterward settled them ia
the valley of Urran, where their posterity have
remained to this time. The nations of the Acalas,
Mopans, Chols, and Lacandons, contiguous to
Vera Paz, for the most part remain unsubdued.
This district is entirely occupied by Indians»
there being neither Spaniards nor Ladinos inha*
biting it, except a very few in one or two villages,
for the purpose of maintaining the sovereignty of
the Spanish monarch over the territory, which i$
governed by an alcalde mayor. The spiritual
concerns of the province were, at first, confided
to the bishop of Guatemala ; in the year 1538,
they were placed under the direction of the
Bishop of Chiapa ; in 1559, it was made a dio*-
cess, and bestowed on Pedro de Ángulo, the first
bishop, who had been one of the earliest adven-
turers to preach the gospel in it, and who laboured
most strenuously to instruct the natives^ He was
succeeded by Thomas de Cardenas, Pedro Peña,
and Antonio Hervias, all of the order of St. Do*-
mingo. Finally, Juan Fernandez Rosillo occupied
the episcopal chair until 1607, when the diocess
of Vera Paz was added to the mitre of Guatemala.
The Dominicans have the ch?irge of administering
the sacramentBi The whole of this division con*
40
8Í6ts of 1 chief town, 13 villages, and 3 snialler
pnes. The whole population is 49,583.
The province of Vera Paz is bounded on the
north by Yucatan, -on the south by Totonicapan
and Solóla, on the west by Chiapa, and on the
east by Chiquimula and the Fresh Gulf. The
land is very rugged and marshy, from the con-
tinued rains that fall throughout the year, and
the almost innumerable rivers by which it is in-^
undated. Notwithstanding these disadvantages
the air is salubrious, the climate in some parts is
warm and dry, but in others it is humid. The
forests produce trees of immense size, the trunks
of some of them being not less than a hundred
feet high, and of proportionate circumference.
Excellent timber of various kinds is to be met
veith in abundance; one species, the Guayacan,
is considered incorruptible; the Drago, which
yields the gum called dragon's blood ; amber,
copal, mastic, almacigo, various kinds of balsam
land aromatic plants ; the achiote, age,, and many
jkinds of drugs in profusion. The mountains af-
ford protection to great numbers of wild beastsf
and nionstrous animals, as the danta, tigers, lions^
and others peculiar to the country. The rivers
are not less remarkable for the variety and mag^
Xiitude of their inhabitants ; but the manati, or sea
calf, surpasses all others in size. The birds court
attention, from the almost endless diversity of
feather* and song, with which they beautify anc^
• Among tfie birds most esteemed for their plumage in Verai
Paz, the quezal holds the first place: it is found also in the
province of Quezaltenango, whence it most probably obtained
its name. It is peculiar to this kingdom, and the most beautiful
of all the feathered tribe: the plumage is of an exquisite emerald
-green, the tail feathers are very Jong, ^nd t|ie natives make usq
41
enliven the woods : of these a spedes of partridge,
as large as a common fowl, is not the least esti-
mable. Cotton yarn is the principal branch X)f
commerce carried on here.
The capital is styled, .imposingly enough, the
imperial city of St. Domingo Coban. It 4s nn-
doubtedly the largest settlement of Indiana
throughout the kingdom, as it contains upwards
of 12,000 inhabitants. It is the residence of the
chief alcalde, as it formerly was of the bishop of
Vera -Paz. Lat. 15 deg. 15 min. north long* 91
deg. 16 min. west, and 50 leagues from Guate-
mala.
The other places of this province offer nothing
that can claim attention; the most populous are
St. Paul, RabinaU St. Matthew, Salamá, and
3anta Maria Cahabon.
New Sevilla, now dismantled, was a towa
founded by some Spaniards who came from Yu-
catan about the year 1544; it stood in a plain on
the bank of the river Polochic, about 3 leagues
from the Gulf, in the jurisdiction of Amatique.*
It was disfranchised and abandoned in 1549, by
of them as ornaments in their dances ; they were formerly sent
to the kings of Mexico as a very valuable present. Great care
was taken not to kill the birds, and they were released, after
being deprived of their most beautiful spoils. The birds them-
selves, as if they knew the high estimation their feathers are
tield in, build their nests with two openings, that by entering
at one, and quitting them by the other, their plumes may not be
deranged.
* The alcaldía mayor of Amatique, which was united to the
wardeuship of the Gulf, extended 35 leagues from east ta
^ west, and 30 from north to south, was bounded on the east by
the province of Honduras, on the south by those of Acasaguas-
tlan and Vera Paz, on the west by lands belonging to the un-
reclaimed Indians, and on the north by the sea ; it had but one
town and three villages^ which being desolated by frequent pes-
tUcntial epidemics, the alcaldía was abolished»
4á
an order from the king in 1547/ in consequence
of complaints made to his majesty on the part of
the Indians of Vera Paz.
DISTRICT OF PETEN.
Between Verapaz, Chiapa, and Yucatan is the
celebrated lake Itza, or Peten, of an oblong figure
and about 26 leagues in circumference : in some
parts there are SO fathoms depth, and in others
still more ; the i^aters are good, and produce ex-
cellent fish. The Peten, or Great Issland, is
about two leagues from the shore, and was the
chief place of the Itzaex Indians ; it is steep and
lofty, and on the summit there is a plain nearly a
quarter of a league in diameter, where the In-
dians and their king Canek resided. In 1698 ai
garrison was established in this place, in conse-
ijuence of an order, dated 23d of January. Fpur
other smaller islands lie at short distances from
the principal one ; all these five islands, the whole
of the eastern side of the lake, and the neigh-
bouring range of mountains, were formerly nu-
merously peopled by diflfereut Indian nations;
but at present there remain no more than seve»
villages in the whole territory, with a diminished
population of only 2555 individuals. The tem-
poral affairs of the district belong to the king-
dom of Guatemala, and it is under the immediate
government of the warden (castellano) of Peten ;
but its spiritual concerns are under the bishop of
Yucatan's guidance^ and intrusted to the care of
five curates. This region was subdued by Mar-
fin de Ursua y Arismendi, governor of Yucatan,
who dis^played the royal standard in Petep^ and
took possession of the island, in the king's name.
4a
©ft tEe rsfh of March, 1697. The soil of thki
cantoD is Tery fertile, always yielding two har-
tests of maize in the year ; it also produces
Chiapa pepper, Brasil wood, balsam, vanilla
cotton, cocoa, pine apples, plums, and other
fruits ; indigo, cochineal, and achiote are not the
least valuable of its productions. The climate is
temperate, the air hea^lthy, the country agreeable,
with great plenty of game, fine pasturage^ and
many navigable rivers.
The principal place is the fortress of Peten, in
16 deg. north lat. and 91 deg. 16 rain, west longi
165 leagues north-west of Guatemala ; the castle
called Nuestra Señora de los Remedios and SU
Paul, is the residence of the governor and the
ecclesiastical vicar. Among the numerous idols
preserved by the Itzaex Indians in this island,
some bones that have been ascertained to be the
remains of a horse, which, on account of its being
diseased, Cortes left among them when he went
on to Honduras, were held in great veneration by
them. At the distance of 10 leagues from the
Jake, the ridge of the Alabaster mountains begins;
on it green, brown, red, and other coloured jasper
is found. On one of the mountains of this district
there were found, in 1797, some small stones per-
fectly spherical, and so hard that. they might
have been used as bullets for muskets and pistols^
and as balls for cannon of different calibre from
4 to 24-pounders*
THE PROVINCE OP CHIQÜIMÜLA
'*Has for its boundaries Verapaz on the west,
Comayaguaon the east, Escuintla, Sacatepeques,
and Zonzonate on the south, and the sea on the
44
Adrth. Within its territory there are 52,423 inha-^
bitants of all casts, 30 small towns and yillages,
and many detached farms and manufactories ; the
whole divided into 12 curacies, all served by the
secular clergy, for the regulars have never had
any cures in this province. The climate is very
hot, except in one or two places, where it is
either cold or temperate. The soil produces
much maize, pulse of various sorts, rice, cocoa,
melons, water-melons, cotton, and, above all, the
sügar-^cane, from which they make panelas,*
pne of their chief articles of commerce. There
are excellent pastures in which are bred cattle»
bogs, mules, and horses ; the two last are in
great request among the carriers, who are very
numerous in this country, for transporting their
cargoes to the shipping, and from the Gulf to
Guatemala: there are also some mines of gold^
silver, talc, and other metals and minerals; at
present those of Alotepeque are the most pro-
ductive» Among the rivers of this region, those
of the first rank are the Fresh Gulf (Golfo
Dulce), the Great River (Rio Grande), noted for a
sort of fish called bobo,t more delicate than any
other in the kingdom, and caught only in tbi£(
* In this country small loaves of unrefined sugar, of a brown
colour, are called panelas, or raspings ; they are so extremely
9weet that they very soon cloy the taste ; there is an immense
consumption of them in all parts of the country, being used
not only for domestic purposes, but also for making brandy and
cbica, a drink the Indians inebriate themselves with ; it is made
in various ways, and from different materials.
t This ñsh can only have been called bobo (fool) in irony, as
It is particul^irly swift and cunning, and cannot be taken without
great trouble and dexterity ; it is from two to three feet long,'the
skin thick, and the substance very rich and savoury : it must for
these reasons be a distinct species of fish from that which Alcé-
do describes under the name hobo.
45
river, and in that which flows by the city of Co*
mayagua : the Great River has its source in the
province of Cbimaltenango ; in its lengthened
course it receives many other streams, and after-r
ward takes the name of Motagua: it forms the
boundary between this province and Honduras,
and falls into the ocean eight leagues eastward of
the mouth of the Gulf river: it is in contemplation
to establish the introduction of the commerce of
Cai?tile by this river, which iá navigable as far as
Gaulan. The native language of the province m
the Chorti.
An opinion has been entertained that this re«
gion was once inhabited by a race of people whose
stature may with truth be called monstrous» A
writer of respectability affirms, that at the end of
the 17th century, some skeletons were found on
the farm of Peñol, the shin bones of which mea-
sured from seven quarters to two varas in length
(the vara is 33 inches English), and the others iu
due proportion ; and that Don Thomas Delgado
de Naxera attempted to remove some of them to
Guatemala, but on taking hold of them they
crumbled to pieces in his hands*
Chiquimula is divided into two districts that
were formerly two corregidorships ; one called
Zacapa and Acasaguastlan, the other Chiqui-
mula; the first includes 8 villages situated in
the western part, and the other 22 villages and
other places in the eastern division. The two
corregidorships were formed into one, denomi-
nated Chiquimula and Zacapo, about the year
1760^ or soon after.
46
DISTRICT OF ACASAGUASTLAN,
The following are the most considerable places
of this district, viz. St, Agustin de la Real Co-
rona, or Acasaguastlan, a lai*ge place once the
capital of the corregidorship, and residence of
the corregidors: it is now the head of a curacy,
which had so extensive a domain, that two
separate cures have been formed from it, tiz.
Sansaria and Tocoy. St. Pedro Zacapais a mo*
derately populous place ; among the inhabitants
there are some Spanish families, many of Mutat**^
toes, but many more of Indians ; it is the head of
a curacy, and chief of the district, where the cor^
regidor's deputy resides.
In this district is the Fresh Gulf that was for^
tified in 1647, under the direction of the presi-
dent, Diego de Avendaño, from which period it
became much frequented, and for more than a
century has been the only place on the Atlantic
Ocean, where the ships of Spain, trading with this
kingdom, have discharged their freights. It is a
lake of fresh water, rendered navigable by the nu-
merous rivers that fall into it, and measures «ix
leagues across in almost every direction; the dis-
tance hence to the capital may be about 72 leagues í
it communicates-with the Atlantic by an arm that
is called the Gulf River, at a point about 14
leagues from the lake, in 15 deg. 25 min. north
lat. and 90 deg. 16 min. west long. ; so that the
mouth of the river is in the centre of the angle
formed by the coast of Walis or Yucatan, running
north and south from Cape Catoche, 120 leagues
distant from the said centre ; and by the coast of
Honduras extending eas^t and west 68 leagues to
4T
(fate Point of Castile: this indent is called tlie Bay
of Honduras. On the shore of the lake there i$
a fort called the Castle of St. Philip.*
Not far distant from the mouth of the Gulf
River there is a bay called the Port of St. Tilo-
mas de Castilla, from having been discovered on
the day of St. Thomas Aquinias, 7th of March»
1604, vrhen Don Alonzo Criado de Castillo
was president. The motive for preferring the
Port of St. Thomas to the Port of Caldera at
Point Castile, and Port Caballos, for unloading
ships that arrive on the coast of Honduras, were
the repeated attacks and captures made by pi^
rates at the two latter places. But it was found
necessary, a short time afterward, to abandon
the Port of St. Thomas, because, being situated
on a spot where the soil was extremely barren,
the cattle which transported the produce of the
country to the ships, frequently perished for want
of provender. It was, therefore, determined to
establish the entry and export of the merchandise
<rf both kingdo0is in the Fresh Gulf.
DISTRICT OF CHIQÜIMULA.
The principal places of the second district are
the following, viz. Chiquimula de la Sierra, the
capital of the province arid residence of the cor-
regidor, which contains more than 2000 Indians, ■
besides 296 Spaniards, and 589 Ladinos. It is 50
leagues from Guatemala in 14 deg. 20 itiin. north
lat, and 90 deg. 16 min. west long.
^ This garrison was established in the year 1655, and approved
«f by ilk majesty*s edict in November, 1658; on the 26th of Fe-
bruary, 1687, another edict was issued, commanding it to be
^aintaiucd in aa effective state of defence. • * ^
48
St. Jago Esquipulas is the best town of the dis*
trict) though in á humid and unhealthy climate :
it is seated on a plain surrounded by hills ; the
houses are good, and the place is singular from
having an inn in it, which is not the case at any
other : there is a mixed population of Spaniards,
Ladinos, and Indians. Lat. 14 deg. north, and
long. 90 deg. 16 min. west.
Close to the town is the ¿llebrated sanctuary
of our Lord of Esquipulas, one of the best ar-
ranged, most capacious, and handsomest churches
of the kingdom: the interior is divided into three
aisles ; on the outside the four angles are adorned
by as many handsome lofty towers ; at the extre*
mity of the principal aisle there is a beautiful re«
cess, wherein a crucifix is placed. This image
was carved at Guatemala, in 1595, b^ Quirio Ca*
taño, an eminent artist, and deposited in the mo-
ther-church of Esquipulas, where it soou obtained
such renown by the miracles it vouchsafed to
operate in behalf of true believers, who duly paid
their adorations to it, as to become famous^
throughout the whole country, and pious pilgrims
came in multitudes to visit this holy^ image, not
from the provinces of Guatemala only, but even
from New Spain, whither its reputation had
extended. The 15th of January is the festival
of this wonder-working effigy, and at that period
a concourse of 80,000 persons has been known
to assemble in the town, some attracted by de-
votion to assist at the solemnity, and others
by the more worldly inducement of attending
the great fair, which is held about the same
time. As the old parish- church could not, by
any means, accommodate so great an influx of
49
risitors, Pedro Pardo de Figueroa, archbishop
of Guatemala, relieved the inconvenience by
erecting the existing sumptuous edifice, to which
the ashes of this venerable prelate were transferred
in 1758> with extraordinary solemnity.
THE PROVINCE OF HONDURAS OR COMAYAGUA.
•
Is the third in succession, following a course
from west to east by the sea-coast ; it lies east
and west along the shores of the Atlantic, having
the provinee of Chiquimula on the west, St, Sal-
vador on the south, Nicaragua on the south*
east and east, and the bay of Honduras on the
north. The bay was thus named by the Spa-
niards, who first came to subjugate the country,
because when they wished to land, they were un-
able to find anchorage along the coast on account
of the great depth (hondura) of water. They also
called it Hibueras or Calabazas, from the great
number of pumpkins they found on. shore. The
land io general is uneven, but fertile in the ex-
treme^ producing maize, pulse, cocoa, sugar, and
cotton; it abounds in cattle, and possesses more
mines of gold and silver than all the kingdom be-
sides. The climate is hot and humid, inconse-
quence very unhealthy, which is the cause of its
being so thinly peopled ; for many of the towns it
formerly could boast of, have been abandoned,
and those which remain are very much reduced
in population.
The rivers and streams that water this dis-
w. trict ai*e very numerous ; of the largest may be
mentioned the Camalecon, that descends from
the district of St. Pedro Sula, and falls into the
nea ^6ut 24 leagues from the Gulf River. Pi-
z
50
raguas (lai^ecanoes) may navigate it for more
than 60 leagues. The Ulaa falls into thie Atlan^
tic about 31 leagues from the Gulf River, and m
navigable ; it has its rise several leagues above
the city of Gomayagua. The Lean, or Leones^
disembogues. 46 leagues from the Gulf; it rises
in the mountains of Mulia and Lean, and is not
navigable above 30 leagues; contifvuing eastward
along the coast, at the distance of 84 leagued
from the Gulf, the Aguan has its astuary ; it rise»
in the mountains of Sulaco, and runs a course
from west tq east of 70 leagues ; it is navigable
for piraguas about 40 leagues from its mouth..
The river Limones descends from the mountains
of Olancho el Viejo^ and discharges itself 00
leagues from the Gulf River ; it is navigable for
piraguas. Pursuing the same direction about 13
leagues from the Limones^ is the bar of the river
Tinto, which is very deep, and rises in the dis-^
trict of Tegucigalpa. Half a league eastward of
the latter is the Payas, navigable only for canoes.
The Plátanos is the last in this direction ; h is a
large river, falling into the Atlantic about 106
leagues distant from the Gulf River. There
are some others that take a different course, and
discharge themselves into the Pacific Ocean : the
Nacaome and the Choluteca fall into the Bay of
Conchagua.
On the coast of this province there are 6 dif-
ferent ports : the first is Omoa^ a bay with good
anchorage, forming a clear, saife, and well-sbél-*
t^red harbour, sufficiently capacious to moor 20
or 25 vessels. It is 17 leagues east of the Fresh
Gulf, in 15 4leg. 23 min. north hit and 88 deg.
56 min. west long. : the second, Puerto Caballos^
51
three leases eastward of the preceding, is formed
by two bays ; but as its eotrance has little mdre
than two feet water, is not much frequented/
The third is Puerto de Sal, 37 leagues from
the Gulf^ yery small, and without good ancbor-i
age, in 15 dég. 25 nun. north lat. Th^ fourth.
Triunfo de la Cruz^ is a large bay, trending to
Ihe south-east^ where vessels of any size may an-
chor under shelter of three small islands called
the Friars. The fifth is the Port of Truxillo,
contiguous to the city of the same name, which h
68 leagues from the Fresh Gulf; the eútrancet
to it id open to the north-north-east ; the points
forming it, Castilla on the north-east, and Que-i
mara south-west, are 6 leagues from each Other ;
in the middle of the bay lies the Isla Blanca*
The sixth is Port Cartago> 132 leagues from the
Gulf River, in the territories of the uncivHized
Indians. The whole of this coast was conquered
by Christoval de Olid, acting under a conmiission
from CoHés^ in 1523; but the interior was sub-
dued by Pedro de Alvarado in 1530, and follow-
ing years. Th^ province is governed by the In-
tendant of Gomayagua, who has deputies at Te-
gucigalpa^ Gracias a Dios, St. Pedro Sula, Ten-:
coa, Yoro, Olancbito» and Olancho el Viejo. The
(Spiritual government belongs to the bishop of
Honduras. It i6 divided into two districts, viz.
Comayagua, which comprehends all the western
part, and Tegucigalpa, extending over all the
eastern : the first was formerly a governitient, and
the second the jurisdiction of a chief alcalde; but
at prudent they form the intendancy of Gomaya-
gua» contatniog 137 t^wns, villages, &c. and
»3,601 inhabitants.
E 2
52
THE DISTRICT OF COMAYAGÜA
Lies between the proviocesr of Chiquimula aad
Tegucigalpa ; it has .94 villages, &c. and 59,265
inhabitants* The whole is subdivided into 25
curacies.
Truxillo, formerly the capital of the province
and residence of the bishop, was founded in
1524, by Francisco Las Casas, whom Cortes
sent against Christoval de Olid, who had revolt- '
ed: it received its name from the circumstance of
the principal persons at its foundation being na-
tives of the city of the same appellation in Estre-
madura. In 1539 the church was declared a ca-
thedral by Pope Paul the Third. In 1589 the
convent of Franciscans was founded ; there was
also a hospital called the Conception^ and a
council; it had a numerous European popula-
tion, which, combined with the fine climate, salu-
brity of the waters, and other advantages, ren-
dered it a convenient and desirable residence.
It was situated close to the port of the samé
name, where Cortes embarked on bis return to
Mexico; the harbour is commodious, and was
once defended by a fort mounting 17 guns, and
some small pieces, but notwithstanding this pro--
tection, it was attacked, the town taken, pillaged,
and destroyed by the Dutch in 1643 ; it remained
in a ruined state until 1789, when the king of
Spain ordered it to be restored, and the harbour
to be fortified. It is now protected by three forts
in a regular state of defence : it was attacked, in
April, 1797, by two English ships of war and a
brig; but they were repulsed after losing 11 men
killed and 9 prisoners. The population at pre-
l?pnt is not very numerous, being only from 80 to
53
100 Spaniards, and about 300 negroes. It is
governed by a military commandant, invested
with the usual jirrisdiction ; he has under his
orders a detachment of 200 veteran troops. The
towa stands on an elevation of about 30 yards
above the level of the sea, between the river»
Negro and Christales, distant 95 leagues from
Comayagua, and 239 from Guatemala. Lat. 15
deg. 20 miu. north, and 86 deg. 6 min. west long.
Gracias a Dios, a city founded by Juan de
Chaves in the year 1536, is situated in a pleasant
valley at the base of a lofty mountain, from the
summit of which descends a rivulet that flows
close by and supplies it with water. In the early
periods of this place it was one of the most
flourishing of the kingdom^ and important as
being the seat of the royal audiencia of the
borders of Guatemala and Nicaragua in 1544.
It has one convent of La Merced/ which is poor,
and not numerous, but one of the most ancient
belonging to that order in the kingdom. At this
time the population is very small, and the city
itself in a state of great decay. Its distance from
Comayagua is 38 leagues, and from Guatemala,
166. Lat. 14 deg. north, and 89 deg. 16 mi»,
west long.
New Valladolid or Comayagua, the capital of
the province of Honduras, is seated in a beautiful
plain contiguous to a large river, from which it
draws an abundant supply of excellent fish. In
1540 Alonzo de Caceres founded this place by
order of FrSincisco Montejo, the governor of
Honduras. In 1544 the king issued an order for
establishing here the royal audiencia' of the bor-
ders; but it was not carried into effect on ac^
54
.cot|ut of lh€ town's being then in its inñsincy ;
and of its great distance from Guatemals^ the
chief city, and the other provinces. A decree of
Deceniber 20, 1557^ granted to it the title aad
honours of a city ; the corporation was composed
at first of I alcalde and 3 r^idors, appoioted
by the royal audiencia ; but in 1558, the royal
chancery ordered that .these oflScers should be
elected annually. The governor of Comayagu^
ibrmerly had his residence here, as at present have
the intendant of the province, and his assessor,
the treasurer, add the receiver-general of the
king's revenues : it is the head quarters of a bat-
talion of militia of 7^7 men. The church is
dedicated to the immaculate conception of the
Virgin, and has been a cathedral since the year
1561, when th^ sovereign pontiff and the king,
sanctioned the translation of the episcopal chair
of Honduras from Troxilio to this place. The
chapter is composed of a dean, an archdeacon,
chaoter, rector, treasurer, penitentiary, and doctor
of ^anon law. There are, a tridentine college»
the grammatical professorship, in which was en-
dowed, by royal decree, in 1602 ; 3 convents, viz.
St. Francis, La Merced, and Juan de Dios, the
latter maintaining an hospital; 2 parishes, that
of the cathedral for Spaniards, and (^a Caridad
for Indians. The town is situated in 13 deg. 50
miu. north lat. and 88 deg* 46 tain, west long.
Distant from Guatemala 144 leagues.
St. Gil de Buena Vista was the first settleo^ent
mad^ by the Spaniards on the coast of flondiiras ;
Gil Gonzales Davila formed it oil bjis first arrival
in 1523, even before Christoval de Olid took
possession of the country for the catholic king:
55
it was situated Q^ar Cape Three Points, to th^
eastward pf the Gulf of Dulce.
El Triunfo.de la Cr^iz, (the Triumph of the
Cross) was a town founded by Christoval de Oiidi
and received its nau^e from bis having landed at
this spot on the day of the Invention of the Cross,
in the year 1523. Of these two places, nothing
remaini^ at the present day but the name, nor of
the town of St. Juan, settled by Pedro de Alva*
rado, near Puerto Caballos in 1536.
. Naco, a pleasant and spacious valley surround*
ed by hills, lying between St. Pedro Zula and
Puerto Caballos, deserves mention as being the
place where Francisco de las Casas, and Gil Gon-
:;ales Davila ordered Christoval de Olid to be
beheaded.
St. Pedrp Zula, and the two following places,
were formerly called cities, and in fact had cor-
porations; but in the present day they are eu«
tirely decayed. St» Pedro vras founded by Al-
yarado in 1536.
St. George Olanchito still contains a small po-
pulation, from wliich three militia companies of
110 men each are embodied '• it was fouuded iu
1530 by Diego de Alvarado^ acting under thj^
orders of his brother Pedro.
Sonaguera is now only a Ladino village, 20
leagues frona TTruxillo.
Yoro is a considerable town, maintaining four
companies ojf militia of 100 men each : jthis and
t})e three preceding places are heads^ of curacies.
Tencoa is a village that deserves n^ention» from
a peculiar species of pepper cultivated in its vi-
c?inity.
The valley of Olancho is memorable for the im-
ü6
inense richesí that have been collected from the
River Guayape, that flows through it ; and even
now the purest gold produced in the kingdom is
to be found in its sands.
The valley of Morolica is celebrated for pro^
. ducing the best cheese of the country.
The valley of Copan is as remarkable at pre-
sent for its excellent tobacco, as it formerly was
for an opulent city, the court of the Cazique Co-
pan-Calel, the conquest of which cost Hernando
de Chaves a great deal of trouble and fatigue.
Francisco de Fuentes, who wrote the chronicles
of this kingdom, assures us that in his time, that
is, in the year 1700, the Great Circus of Copan,
still remained entire. This was a circular space,
surrounded by stone pyramids about 6 yards
high, and very well constructed ; at the bases of
these pyramids were figures, both male and female,
of very excellent sculpture, which then retained
the colours they had been enamelled with ; and,
what was not less remarkable, the whole of them
were habited in the Castilian costume. In the
middle of this area^ elevated above a flight of
steps, was the place of sacrifice. The same au-
thor relates that, at a short distance from the Cir-
cus, there was[ a portal constructed of stone, on
the columns of which were the figures of men,
likewise represented in Spanish habits, with hose,
ruff round the neck, sword, cap^ and short cloak.
On entering the gateway there are two fine stone
pyramids, moderately large and lofty, from which
is suspended a haipmock that contains two hu-
man figures^ one of each sex, clothed in the In-
dian style. Astonishment is forcibly excited on
viewing this atructure^ because, large as it ii?, there
57
18 no appearance of the component parts being
joined together; and, aithongh entirely of stone,
and of an enormous weight, it may be put in mo-
tion by the slightest impulse of the hand. Not
far from this hammock is the cave of Tibulca;
this appears like a temple of great size, hollowed
out of the base of a hill, and adorned with columns
having bases, pedestals, capitals and crowns, all
accurately adjusted according to architectural
principles; at the sides are numerous windows
faced with stone exquisitely wrought. All these
circumstances lead to a belief that there must
have been some intercourse between the inhabi-
tants of the old and the new world at very remote
periods.
St. Femando de Omoa is a fort built on the
harbour of the same name, in consequence of a
royal decree dated August 30, 1740, which or*
dered that a fortification should be constructed
on the coast of Honduras, to serve as a bulwark
to the province of Comayagua, and afford a safe
anchorage to the Guarda Costas employed in
the protection of this part of the kingdom. The
works were commenced in 1752, by the Lieutenant
General Don Jose Vasquez Prego, .president of
the audiencia, and were not finished until 1775.
In 1780 the place was taken by the English; but
tl>ey were forced to abandon it soon after on ac-
count of its unhealthiness. At a short distance
from the fort there is a village inhabfted by ne-
groes; who are the only persons able to endure
the climate. It is 17 leagues from St. Pedro Zula,
62 from Comayagua, and 101 from Guatemala.
Roatan is an island off* the coast of Honduras, '
18 leagues north-east of the harbour of Truxillo ;
58
the east point of it lies iu 16deg. norÜi lat. aud
87 deg. 6 nii.n, west long. It extends from 45 to
SO miles in length, and from 6 to 10 in breadth,
following the range of the coast; being surround-
ed by reefs and rocks^ the approach to it is ren-
dered dangerous, except by a few openings but
little known. The principal harbour. affords good
anchorage, but rather open to south-west winds :
there are two entrances into it, the principal one
is considerably narrowed by the shoals about it ;
the other, called Lacanda, is but little known,
being very difficult of access from the tortuous
course that must be run to get in : however, vessels
of large size may enter. The climate is warm
and dry, consequently healthy; the surface is
broken and mountainous, scantily supplied with
water, but plentifully stored with game, and the
shores afford fish in great abundance, particularly
of the crustaceous kind. In the year 1642 it
was taken by the English, who kept it until 1650,
when Francisco de Villalva y Toledo compelled
them to abandon the possession : he conveyed
the Indians who inhabited it to a settlement in
the alcaldia of Amatique, and left the island un-
inhabited. In this state it remained until 1742,
when the English again occupied and fortified it^
but were dislodged about the year 1780 by the
president of Guatemala; in 1796 they resulned
possession, and left a force of 2000 negroes to
defend it ; but it was finally reconquered from
them on the 18th of May, 1797^ by Don Jose
]Rossi y Rubi, who had been commissioned foe
that service by the captain general.
59
DISTRICT OF TEGUaCALPA.
In this district there are two towns, Teguci-
galpa, and Xeres de la Choluteca, 6 small towns
of Ladinos, 17 lodiao villages^ 13 mines, and
several farms, together foroiing 10 curacies, con-
.taining in the whole 34^236 inhabitants of all
casts. This canton furnishes productions of ail
kinds, timber of various sorts, a variety of ani-
mals, and, above all, gold and silver, in which it
is the richest part of the kingdom. It lies between
the provinces of Comayagna on the west, Nica-
ragua on the east and south, and the Xicaque
Indians on the north. The chief town is Teguci-
galpa, the most populous and flourishing place in
the province of Comayagua : it is the residence of
the deputy int^ndant ; has a royal treasury subor-
dinate to that of Comayagua, a deputy minister
pf the royal revenues, and an as^ay roaster. There
is a corporatioj^ composed of 2 alcaldes, a standard
bearer, and 6 regidors; a battalion pf provincial
militia, of 767 men, and a squadron of cavalry of
166 men are stationed here. The principal public
buildings are a spacious church, a Franciscan
convent built in 1574, another of the order of La
Merced, and two oratories, called Calvario and
Dolores. The climate is healthy, though rather
hot. The distance to Comayagua is 25,. and to
Guatemala 148 leagues.
Xeres de la Frontera in th.^ valley of Choluteca,
is the qdost southerly ^nd the hottest place of all
the district; it hold^ the rank of a towu,^ and
has a corpof^tipp (the men^bers of which are
Spaniards) established by permission of the au-
diencia. Tiiere is a sinall convent of La Merced
(50
Jhere. The town lies in 12 deg. 50 min. north lat.
and 87 deg. 46 min. west long.
EI Corpus was the richest mine in the kingdom:
it produced gold in so great a quantity as to ex-
cite, at first, a suspicion as to the reality of the
metal, and a treasury was established on the spot,
for the sole purpose of receiving the king's fifths ;
it however terminated unsuccessfully : the place
is within the jurisdiction of Choluteca.
THE PROVINCE OF NICARAGUA.
This was the first province of the kingdom
subdued by the Spaniards; it wai? discovered
in 1522 by Gil Gonzales Davila, and settled by
Pedro de Areas and Francisco Fernandez de
Cordova, two officers who accompanied Davila. ,
On the north it is bounded by the provinces of
Honduras, and Tologalapa, on the east by the
Atlantic, on the south by the government of Costa
Rica and the Pacific Ocean, and on the west by
the district of Tegucigalapa. From west to east
it extends 85 leagues, and from north to south
about 75. The intendancy of Nicaragua inchjdes
6 districts ; of these Leon, which is the first, was
formerly considered a government; the others,
Realejo, Subtiava, Matagalpa, and Nicoya, were
corregidorships ; but now all these different can-
tons are united under the jurisdiction of thein-
tendant of the province, who has six deputies, one
resident at the city of Segovia, one in the town of
Realejo, and one in each of the villages of Sub-
tiava, Matagalpa, Mazaya and Nicoya : the spi«
ritual government appertains to the diocess of
Leon. As the temperature of this province is very
hot, it does not produce wheat, but yields all the
61
Tarioús articles peculiar to the climate tñout
bountifully : excellent grapes, and other delicious
fruits, cocoa, indigo, and cotton, besides various
medicinal drugs, and particularly the gum called
caraña. The forests afford large quantities of
valuable timber of several species, and also vari-
ous kinds of monkeys and other quadrupeds, as
welt as many different sorts of rare birds : there
aré several farms, on which are bred immense
numbers of cattle, that supply not only the con«
sumption of the province, but of the city of Gua- .
témala also; the soil, however, is not favourable
for breeding sheep : the rivers, the coasts, and
creeks, both on the Atlantic and Pacific, furnish
an inexhaustible supply offish of all kinds.
Some of the rivers of this province discharge
their waters into the Atlantic, and some into the
Pacific. Of the latter, the most important are the
Creek del Viejo, the river of Nicaragua, the Al-
varado, and the Nicoya, which separates the pro-
vince from Costa Rica. Of the former, the great
river Pantasma, that rises in the jurisdictions
of Segovia and Matagalpa, being joined by se-
veral others, becomes a stream of considerable
magnitude, and falls into the sea near the false
Cape Gracias k Dios, where it forms a small har^,
hour. The Mosquito, the Gold, the Iron River»
and the river St. John, that flows out of the lake
of Granada, and, after a,, course of about 40
leagues, discharges itself irito the sea: near its
embouchure it forms three branches, one of which
retains the name of St. John ; the second is called
Taure, and the third Colorado. On the Atlantio
there is one harbour, which is Ihe bay formed by
the estuary of the St. John ; but, on the Pacific,
62 .
there are five witbia the limits of theprofiDoe:
the firist of these is the harbour of Realijo, or
Cardón, the best and most convenient of any in
the kingdom : it is a lai^ bay, that may be en-^^
tered by ships of evefy tdnnage, and is capacious
enough for. a thousand vessels to ride in perfect
safety. Ships may proceed by different channels
and creeks as far as the town of Realijo, 9 or 19
leagues distant from the sea, and may there be
careened and uudergo repairs. The second is the
harbour of Coziguina, also spacious, and with
water enough for vessels of all classes. The third
is Port St. John, not practicable for large ships ;
but very safe for such as can enter it. The fourth
is called Brito, and about 6 leagues farther on i»
the fifth, called Escalante.
THE PROVINCES OF TAGUZGALPA AND
TOLOGALPA.
Between the provinces of Nicaragua and Co*
mayagua, lie those of Tagnzgalpa and Tologalpa^
inhabited by unconverted Indians of various na-
tions^ differing in language, manners, and customs,
and in a state of warfai'e with each other. They
are but obscurely known by the name of Xica-^
^ues. Moscos, and Sambos. The English, who
had a small fort and a few huts on the banks of
the river Tinto, used to trade with these Indians,
but have been obliged to abandon the post. These
two provinces extend along the coast on the At-
lantic^ from the river Aguan to that of St. Juan^
which space takes in the 3 prominent points^
Capes Camarón, Graciog a Dios, and Punta
Gorda. The first of these is 96 leagnes distant
from the gulf of Dulce, between the rivers Tinto
63
aod Liiuoneft; the last is situated bet\yeen the
rivers de Fierro and St. Juan ; and between these
two lies the second, in 15 deg. 40 min. Qorth lat.
and 82 deg. 16 min. west long. 130 leagues irom
the gulf of Dulce ; in which space the coast runs
from west to east, but from the latter cape, down
to the river St. Juan, it takeá a direction from
north to south. Inland these provinces are bounds
ed by tthose of Coraayagua, Tegucigalpa^ and
Matagalpa. The climate is- excessively hot, the
soil is watered by upwards of 100 small streams
and a few large rivefs* In Taguzgalpa there is a
very picturesque lake.
THE DISTRICT OF LEON
Is the principal one of the intendancy, aud con-
tains the cities of Leon, Granada, and New Se-
govia ; the towns of Nicaragua, Esteli, Acoyapa,
and Villa Nueva ; 28 villages, and many farms.
These places are formed into 23 curacies, and
the aggregate population amounts to 66,930 inha-
bitants. The district is subdivided into four ju-
risdictions ; that of the city of Leon extends over
the city, the town of Navia, the valley of St.
Pedro Metapa, and 5 villages ; that of Granada
comprises the city, the town of Acoyapa, and 17
villages : Segovia has the city, the town of Esteli,
and 5 villages; and, lastly, that* of Nicaragua,
which only extends to the town and village of the
same name.
The city of Leon, the capital of the intendancy
and bishoprick of Nicaragua, is situated in 12 deg.
20 min. north lat. and 86 deg. 16 min. west long.
8 leagues distant from the lake of Managua, 4
from the shore of the Pacific, and 183 from Gua-
04
témala. This city was originally founded on the
fepot now called Old Leon, by Francisco Fer-*
uandez de Cordova, in 1523; but, some years
afterward, it was rebuilt on its present site. The
church was constituted a cathedral by Pope Paul
the Third, and Pedro de Zuniga, of the order of
St. Francis, one of those who first preached
Christianity to the natives, was appointed the firsf
bishop ; but, dying before his consecration, he was
succeeded by Diego Alvarez Osorio, chanter of
the cathedral of Darien, who took possession of
the bi«hoprick of Nicaragua, and built the churcK
in the city of Leon in 1532. This edifice is de-
dicated to the Assumption of the Virgin, but had
no prebends, on account of its insufficient re-
venues, until 1624, when the king appointed the
first dean and archdeacon ; curates, and a chief
sacristan were elected by the bishop^ and the
celebration of divine, service immediately com-
menced. In 1681, a rector was appointed; and,
in 1715, 2 canons. Besides the prebendaries,
there is a competent number of chaplains and
other ministers for the church discipline. There
are 3 convents; a Franciscan, which is head of
the province of St. George, was founded by the
bishop Zuniga in 1579; one of La Merced; and
another of 8t. Juan de Dios, which has under its
care the hospital of St. Catherine. There was
also a convent of Dominicans here, as well as an-
other in the city of Granada, but they were both
abolished in 1554. The Tridentine college of St.
Kaiuon, established in the year 1675, by Andres
de las Navas, is not one of the least estimable or-
naments of this city. At it& first commencement
there were only 3 professorships, grammar and
65
morality, the latter endowed by the king; but, in
the present day, there are chairs for sacred his*
tory, scholastic theology, philosophy^ medicine,
and civil and canon law.^ There is but one
parish in the city, but this has three supplemen-
tary ones, with a, church in each of the 3 wards
or divisions. The bishop and the intendant of
the province reside here; the royal treasury of
the intendancyis also established here. The city
of Leon has a corporation, a post-oflSce, custom-
house, factory of tobacco, a consular deputation,
a battalion of militia of 767 men, and a numerous
population, comprising 1061 Spaniards, 626 Mes-
tizos, 5740 Ladinos, and 144 Indians, total, 7571
individuals. . i
Granada, a handsome and agreeable city, oh
the margin of the great lake of Nicaragua, which;
from this circutnstance, is most commonly called
the Lake of Granada. Its antiquity is nearly the
same as that of Leon, having been founded by
Francisco Fernandez de Cordova in 1523. Its
^gure is that of a parallelogram, fortified" by 2
natural dykes, which serve as fosses. The situa-
tion of this city, close to the lake, by which there
is á direct cpn^muniqation with, the Atlantic, and
its contiguity tp the Pacific Ocean, affords the
most advantageous facilities for carrying on aa
extensive commerce. The popul^ion consists of
863 Europeaa Spaniards and (Creoles, 910 Mes-
tizos, 4765 Ladinos, and 1695vlndians, who in-
habit a little village adjoining. Like Leon it has
its corporation. The public buildings are, a
sumptuous parochial church, a Franciscan cpn-
• By a decree, dated Aug. 18, 1806, the kin? of Spain
gcaoled to v this college the, power of conferring junior degrees,
P
66
Yénty dne of the most aDcient in the kingdom,' 9a*
other of La Merced, one of St. Juan de Dios,
with a hospital attached to it; and a church,
dedicated to our Lady of Guadalupe, to which is
annexed a content. The priucipal church is no*
tioed as containing the remains of 4 bishops of
Leon, and of Bernardiuo de Obregou y Obando^
founder of the congregation of St. Philip Neri of
Guatemala. Granada stands in 11 deg. 30 min.
north lat., 86 deg. 21 min. west long., 30 leagues
south-west from Leon,^ and 216 east-south-east
from Guatemala.
The lake of Nicaneigua is the largest of this
kingdom, and may rank among the most exten*
sive of the world ; being more than 180 miles long
from west to east, and nearly 100 broad from
north to south, having almost every where á
depth of 10 fathoms, with a muddy bottom, ex-
cept along the shore, where there is cl^m.sand^
The city is supplied with water from the lake,
which also furnishes an inexhaustible abundaU'Ce
of fine fish. It is rendered extremely picturesque,
by the numerous small islands with which thosur^
^ face is studded : these are all uncultivated, except
Ometep, which is inhabited. On this there is a
lofty mountain of a conical shape, that is an
active volcano, and frequently emits both flames
«itid smoke. The lake itself is liable to tetppes-
iuous agitations, when the waves rise with vio^
4ence, as they do in the open sea, under %he iiii^
petas oí a heavy gale. Although a great number
^^f rivers fall into this basin, and the River St.
Juan is the only visible outlet, yet it is remarked
as an extraordinary phenomenon, that there is no
indication at any time of increase or decrease of
67
the waters. On the north, the district of Mata-
galpa, and many large farms for breeding cattlet
border the lake ; on the south are the city of
Granada^ and the town of Nicaragua; on the east
the River St. Juan communicates with the At-
lantic^ and on the west is the lake of Managua,
or Leon,. which extends upwards of 50 miles ra
length, by nearly 80 in breadth, and is connected
by a canal with the Nicaragua.
'The caistle of the River St. Juan is built on the
banks of that river, 12 leagues below the lake,
and 28 from the sea. There was a small fort, an-
ciently called St. Carlos, that was captured by
the English in 1665; but the presidents of Gua-
témala, Don Martin Carlos de Meneos, and Don
Sebastian Alvares Alphonso Rosico de Caldas,
soon after succeeded in r^overing it from the as-^
^ailants. In consequence of thid event, a royal
4lecree was issued, commanding that the entrance
of the river should be fortified. In obedience to
which, Don Fernando de Escobeda, the president,
proceeded to examine the port and river, and or-
dered the present fortress -to be constructed,
which is a parallelogram built upon a small emi-
nence of solid rock, with four bastions, a fosse,
&c. . it usually has a garrison of 100 soldiers.
New Segovia, a city founded by Pedrarias Da-
vSa, one of the first governors of Nicaragua. It
baa a corporation, consisting of 2 alcaldes^ a chief
alguacil^ and 3 regidors. A battalion of militia^
of 76i7 men, is stationed here ; and it is the resi-
dence of the deputy-intendant of Leon. The num-
ber of inhabitants is small, being only 151 Spa-r
niards, and 453 Ladinos. There is one church ;
formerly it had a convent of La Merced, and a
F 2
68
hospicio of Franciscans, or a detached body of
that order, maintained by the province of Guate-
mala, for the purpose of preparing missionaries
ta be sent into the province of Tologalpa ; but
these missions having ceased, this establishment
has been withdrawn : the convent has also been
abolished, from being unable to maintain the
number of members required by the royal regula-
tions. This city has been repeatedly ravaged by
the Mosco Tndians, aided by English pirates,
i/i^hich has occasioned its inhabitants to change
the situation of their abode three several time».
It is in 13 deg. north lat. and 8($ deg. 40 min.
west long. 30 leagues from Granada. To the
westvvard of it lies the district of Tegucigulpa,
that of Matagaipa on the south, and the lands of
the Sambo Indians on the east and north. In
this province there was formerly another city,
called New Jaen, situated between the lake of
Granada and the Atlantic, and the town of Bru-
selas, on the borders of Nicaragua, of which no-
thing but the memory now remains.
Nicaragua, a town inhabited by Spaniards, and
Jin Indian village adjoining to it, are known by
this name, which gave the appellation to the
province, most probably from its having been the
part by which the Spaniards first penetrated into
it. The inhabitants carry on a traffic in cocoa,
that is raised oti numerous plantations in the ad-
jacent country: from a species of osier, growing
in the neighbourhood, they fabricate chairs, boxes,
paper cases, and curious articles of furniture. It
lies 12 leagues south-east from Granada.
Masaya is a large village, carrying on a greater
trade than any other place in the intendancy.
69
The population amounts to 6000 individuals, of
Mrhich only 83 are Spaniards. The scarcity of
water is severely felt here, and the inhabitants are
forced to supply themselves with this necessary
article of life from a well of extraoridinary depth ;
and although the descent into it is almost perpen-
dicular; the Indian women sling their pitchers
behind their backs, and go down to the water, by
placing their hands and feet in cavities scooped
out in the rocky sides, with a celerity that would
not be credible to a person who had not ob-
served it.
The volcano, called Masaya, is at a short dis-
tance from this village, and was the most re-
markable one in the kingdom at the time of the
conquest. Historians relate, that within the cra-
ter, about 25 or 30 paces in diameter, was con-
stantly seen a substance like melted metal, red
hot, which frequently boiled up to a considerable
height with great violence and noise, emitting a
light sufficiently bright to read by at a league
distant, and that the splendour of it might be dis-
tinctly perceived at sea 25 leagues off: the Spa-
niards used to call it Infierno de Masaya (the
Hell of Masaya). In the present day, however,
it is totally extinguished. At a small distance
from this, there is another volcano, called Nin-
diri, remarkable for an eruption in 1775, when it
discharged a torrent of lava that rolled into the
lake of Masaya, in which it destroyed the fish,
and heated the lands contiguous to its passage
to so great a degree^ that all the cattle feeding
on them perished..
70
^ THE DISTRICT OF MATAGALPA.
It has been already iñentioned, that four dts*
tricts of the intendancy of Nicaragua were for*
merly corr^imientos ; they are uow, however,
very much reduced in importance. Matagalpa
and Chontales are bounded on the north by New
Segovia, on the west by the govermnent of Li^m,
on the south by the River St. Juan, and on the
east and north-east by the province of Tologalpa.
It produces great numbersof cattle, maize, pulse,
and other provisions. The population amounts
to about 20,000, dispersed in 12 villages, and
many extensive farms, that forni 3 curacies, one
of which is served by the order of La Merced,
and the others by the secular clergy.
THE DISTRICT OF REALEJO
Is of less extent than that of Matagalpa, con-
taining no more than 6210 inhabitants, and 3 vil-
lages, besides the principal town. It li^ on the
shore of the Pacific, between the districts of Cho-
luteca on the north-west, and Subtiava to the
south-east. Realejo is the chief place, near the
harbour of Cardón, or Realejo, 4 leagues from
the city of Leon, in 12 deg. 25 min. north lat
and 87 deg. 6 min.. west long. It is inhabited en*
tirely by Ladinos, chiefly aitücers, many of
whom are ship and house-carpenters, caulkers,
and smiths, employed in building and repairing
ships ; for which purpose there are good dobks,
and plenty of timber; also sail-cloth, tar, &€.
The town was built in 1534, by some Spaniards,
the companions of Alvarado in his expedition to
Peru, who, having observed the advantageous
71
9»tu&tioB Of the harbour^ d^ermiued to eslablmb
themselves on á spot so convenient and pro*-
niistng.
Viejo is a place, at a short distance from the
preceding, where, on account of its local supe-
riority, the corregidors haye fixed their residence.
It contains 2966 inhabitants, among whom there
are only 59 Sjpaniards. In the estimation of the
oommon people, this is a place of great religions
importance, on account of an image of the Virgin,
which is kept in the dhurch, and resorted to by
multitudes of devout pilgrims from all parts, par-
ticnbrly on the 8th of December, and the 2d of
February, on which days the principal festivals
are celebrate. The traditionary history pf this
holy bijou may not, perhaps, meet with so im«
plicit a belief from strangers, as it does from the
datives, who assert, with a confidence which may
serve to shew the firmness of their own persuasion,
though it may fail to carry conviction to the minds
of other^^ that this inestimable effigy was once
the property of the immaculate virgin St. Theresa,
who bequeathed it to her brother, and by him it
was brought into this country, and bestowed
upon the village of Viejo, as a mark of especial
favour.
THE DISTRICT OF SUBTÍ AVA
Is also on the sh^re of the Paipifip Ocean, by
which itis bounded on the south» by Healejo on
4he north-west, by the corregimiento of Nicoya
0n tb# SQuth*east, and by the government of Leon
4)» tl^e ^orth* It is 18 leagues long and 12 broad ;
in this space there are only 6 villages and a few
grazing farms; there are 3 curacies, over which
72 '
secular pastors preside. The village of Subtiava
is the principal place, and one olF the most popu-
lous in the kingdom ; it is inhabited only by In-
diansy many of whom are employed in weaving,
and they fabricate cotton quilts that are extremely
handsome and durable, and generally esteemed
throughout the country. Besides the parochial
church there are 5 oratories. It is contiguous
to the city of Leon; and only divided from it by
a road.
THE DISTRICT OF NICOYA
Is the eastern part of the intendancy of Nica-
ragua on the coast of the Pacific ; it has Subtiava
on the west, the lake of Granada on the north,
the government of Costa Rica on the east, and
on the south the ocean. It stretches 23 leagues
east and west, by 20 north and south. The land
is of a very fertile description, though it yields
but little, from want of hands to cultivate it;
scarcely producing maize enough for the con-
sumption of the inhabitants; who^ in addition to
this scanty harvest, rear a few herds of cattle.'
On the coast they obtain a few pearls, and a spe-
cies of shell-fish, out of which they press a fluid
that will dye cotton pf a beautiful and permanent
purple. The climate is hot and humid, and the
population so thin as hardly to number 3000
souls upon all the farms ; and in the only village
of the canton, which is called Nicoya, situated
on a river of the same name, navigable from the
sea for vessels of moderate tonnage. _ It is 230
leagues from Guatemala ; in lOdeg. 15 min. north
lat, and 85 deg. 21 min. west long.
73
THB PROVINCE OF COSTA RICA.
The fifth and roost easterly province is that of
Costa Rica, a name which at present seems to be
only continaed to it in irony, as it is more poor*
and destitute than any other. It extends from the
River del Salto, which separates it from Nicaragua,
to the district of Chiriqui, in the jurisdiction of
Veraguas, a distance of 160 leagues from west to
east; and from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean,
from north to south, a bout 60 leagues. Its limit,
•on the Atlantic, is from the mouth of the river St.
Juan to the little island called the Escudo de Ve-
raguas ; and on the Pacific, from the River A 1 va-
rado, the boundary of the province of Nicaragua,
to the river Boruca, which terminates the king-
dom of Terra Firma to the westward. The. cli-
mate,is for the most part warm, but in some
places it is very temperate : the soil yields coooa,
tobacco, and other productions of warm climates;
wheat, and such other articles as are peculiar to
colder regions, are raised in the mountainous
parts, but all in scanty proportions from the waiit
of hands for agricultural employments. There
are mines of gold, silver, and copper, but they
are scarcely more productive than the surface of
the soil is. On the Pacific there isa harbour,
that of Caldera, or Esparza, and another on the
Atlantic ; Matina, or the Bar of Carpintero,
formed by the rivers Barbilla and Chirripo^
which unite four leagues above the sea ; the rivers
Ximenes, Rebeutazon, and Moin, discharge them-
selves into the Atlantic:' they have sufficient
depth of water to admit piraguas 8 or 10 leagues
inland. The Alvarado^ the Rio Grande, and the
74
Boruca, with several others of less note, descend
into the Pacific. Within the government of Costa
Rica there are 1 city, 3 towns, and 10 villages^
containing together about 30,000 inhabitants, a
small proportion of each, compared with the ter-
ritorial extent of it, and a great diminution of its
ancient numbers. In the early periods of the
Spanish occupancy, there were a governor and 4
corr^idors, who had their residences in Quipo»
Chirripo, Ujarraz, and the four villages contigu-
ous to Cartago; the jurisdiction of the first ex-^
tended to the coast of the South Sea^ of the se*-
cond to the Atlantic ; and the two others were
intermediate: these corregimen tos were abolished
more than a century ago, and of many of the vil-
lages belonging to them, there are no vestiges re-
maining ; previous to that period it was an opulent
district, from the advantageous commerce car--
ried on with Panama, Porto Bello, and Cartba^
gena, but tliis has long since been annihilated.
This province was partly converted from ido-»
latry in 1560, and the following years, by Juan
Pizarro, who fell a martyr to his zeal; Pedro de
Betanzos, Lorenzo Bienvenida, and others of the
order of St. Francis, from the province of Nom-
bre de Jesus and Guatemala* who baptized great
numbers of the natives, and established several
convents £or their instructiou. The province of
Talamanca yet retains its idolatry, and the care
of its conversion remains witli the College de Pro-
paganda fide of Guatemala. The civil adminis**
tration of Costa Rica is confided to a governor,
and its ecclesiastical concerns are under the di-
rection of the bishop of Leon.
Cartago, the chief city of the province, 9Ad re^
IP
Mdedce of the governor, * is »iimteA in Ibe centre,
80 leagues from the bouQ4«nr of Nicaragua, and
as fiw from Terra Fama, 30 leagues from the
Port of Esparjaa# on the South Sea, and about as
many (nsm Matina on the Atlantic ; in 9 deg. 10
jmu north lat., 82 deg. 46 min. west long., and
400 leagues easMt-south-east from Guatemala. It
is under a benignant climate, surrounded by
pleasant valleys that are fertilized by several
rivers, and very eligible for cultivating the pro-
ductions of Europe, as well as those of America.
The eairly importance of this city may be inferred
from its having the privilege of armorial bearings
as^gned to it by a grant from the king, dated so
early as August 18, 1565* It has now a corpo-
ration, and a numerous population, consisting of
632 European jqind native Spaniards, 6026 Mesti-
zos, and 1679 Ladinos ; in all 8337 individuals,
with the peculiarity that the Spaniards, Ladinos,
&c. live in separate wards of tlie city. The reli-
gious establishments are a church, a Franciscan
convent, the sanctuary of Nuestra Señora de los
Angeles, and 2 oratories*
Villa Nueva de St. José, next to the capital, is
the most populous town in the province, inhabited
by 1976 Spaniards, 5254 Mestizos, 1096 Ladinos,
in all 8326. It lies in a y alley at a short distance
/rom Cartage.
Villa Vieja has 6657 inhabitants, of whom 1848
are Spaniards, 3935 Mestizos, and 872 Pardos ;
it is the head of a curacy, and has annexed to it.
Villa Hermosa, the population of which is esti-
* There are m the archives of this city, public records of the
year 1523, whidi prove H to be. the moBt aocient city in the
kiDgdtnii.
76
mated at 610 Spaniards, 2396 Mestizos, and 884
Mulattoes, in all 3890 persons.
Esperaza, or £1 Espíritu Santo de Esperaza,
now desolate, was once a city near the harbour
of Caldera; it had a corporation, a numerous
population, a parochial church, and Franciscan
convent of St Lorenzo. In 1670 it was attacked
by a French pirate, and pillaged, when the inha-
bitants retired to the interior, and never after-
ward returned to their habitations.
Bagases^ a town near Esparza, shared the same
fate from the same assailants, and was in like
manner abandoned.
Ujarraz, once a very large village, but now a
place of very trifling consequence, and only re-
markable for á resolution of the governor and
council of Cartago, in 1666, to walk in proces-
i^ion annually from that city hither, a distance of
2 leagues, to pay their adorations to the mira-
culous image of the Virgin, which was in the
church, in gratitude for her seasonable interposi-
tion and deliverance of them from certain irreve-
rent pirates, who had disembarked in the Port
of Matina, with the hope of pillaging Cartago
and ravaging the country.
St. Fernando, a fort built in the year 1743, to
defend the harbour of Matina, was a hornwork
formed of large beams of timber and palisades,
on the bank of the river, about half a mile
from the shore, where the passage is about 100
yards across; it was garrisoned with 100 men;
this force was afterward reduced to half that
number, but ultimately entirely withdrawn, and
the work totally abandoned : it stood in 9 deg.
30 min. north lat., and 82 deg. 56"min. west long.
77
CHAP. IV.
Containing "^ a Chorographic Description of the
Five Middle Provinces.
The first province in this situation, travelling
from west to east, is Totonicapan, or Guegué-
tenango« one of the most popufous of the king-
dom, containing 58,200 inhabitants, viz. 2750 La-
dino§, and 55,450 Indians, dwelling in 48 vil-
lages, and 2 hamlets (of the Ladinos), divided
into 11 curacies, of which the following 7 ar¿
served by the secular clergy, vi^;. Gueguetenango,
Chiantla, Momostenango, St. Christoval Totoni-
capan, Sacapulas, Solomá, and Cuilco ; the other
four are administered by the regular orders,' viz.
St. Miguel Totonicapan, by the Franciscans;
Santa Maria Nebah, by the Doininicans ; Mala-
catan and Jacaltenango, by those of La Merced.
This district is of an irregular figure, the greatest
length being 66 leagues, and the breadth 50; it
is bounded on the west and south by the province
of Quezaltenango ; on the west and north by that
of Cbiapa ; on the north-east by Verapaz ; and on
the south by Solóla; lying between 15 deg. 12
min. and 17 deg. 20 min. north lat., and 92 deg.
16 min. and 93 deg. 26 min. of west long. , It is
watered by the rivers Zamalá, Sija, Motocinta,
Sacapulas, Zumacinta, St. Ramon, and Cuiico;
It is governed by an alcalde mayor, and main-
tains three companies of Urban militia, one sta-
tioned in the capital, another in Gueguetenango,
and the third. in Chiantla.
This province is divided into two districts, To-
tonicapan and Gueguetenango, the former ex-
78
tending over the eastern part, is of a cold tem-
perature, and yioids such productions as are na-
tural to such a climate. The language of the na-
tives is the Quiche. There are 2 Ladino ham-
lets and 7 villages (Indian), 6 of which are very
populous, the principal one having nearly 7000
inhabitants ; St. Francisco el Alto 5300, St.
Christoval 3680, St. Andres Xecul 1200, Momos-
ienango 5420, and St. Maria Chiquimula6000.
St. Miguel Totonicapan, the largest and su-
perior place of the district, is the capital of the
province, the residence of the alcalde mayor^ the
head of a curacy, and a mission of the Francis-
cans, who have in it a convent, with a guardian,*
iDurate, and conventuals. Of the inhabitants, 454
are Ladinos, 578 Indian caciques, or nobles (de-
scended from those of TIascala, who came hither
with Pedro de Alvarado, and who are endowed
with various privileges, such as having a governor of
their own cast, being exempt from paying tribute,
and some Other immunities), and 5817 Mase-
guales, or plebeian Indians. The climate is cold
and humid, and the chief produce a great abun^-
dance of apples and pears of various sorts. There
are 2 warm mineral springs of great efficacy as
baths. The natives are expert in the manufac-
tory of guitars, fancy boxes, and other articles of
cabinet work, and of earthen ware ; they have
besides some woollen manufactories. It is 5
leagues from Quezaltenango, 11 from Solóla, and
38 from Guatemala.
St. Luis Sahcaja, 2 leagues from Quezaltenan-
• Among the Franciscans, the superior of a monastery is called
the guardian.
79
go, átid 1 from from St. Christoval Totonicapan,
is a village of Ladinos, inciMisiderable both, a» to
its population and trade, but deserving of bdng
mentioned, because it was the first establMiment
made by Pedro de Alvarado, and its ctiarch the
first that was consecrated to Christian worship in
this country, and in which was preserved, until
the year I6Ó0, an image of the Virgin, called the
Victrix, that, according to tradition, was brought
thither by Alvarado himself. On this spot the
town of Quezaltenango haá its origin, but being
transferred to the situatioti it now occupies, the
descendants of Juan de Leon Cardona, whom Al-
varado had appointed his lieutenant, were left at
Safacaja; they lived disjiersed upótí the various-
fartns until the year 1780, when they were united,
to the number of 622, to formtfae present hamlet.
St. Carlos Sija is another hamlet of Ladinos,
containing 600 inhabitants, who, like those of the
preceding, were dispersed on different farms until
1780^ wheB they also formed the existing esta-
blishment^ which is annexed to the curacy of Os-
tnncalco« It is situated under a very cold cli-
mate, and carries on but a trifling trade in wh^at
and cattle«
GUEGRJETENANGO.
ÍThis district form6 the western part of the pro-
vince ; it enjoys a variety of climates, and its pro-
ductions are diversified in proportion * in the cold
parts, sheep, wheat, maize, and the peculiar fruits;
in the mild and hot cantons, sugar, maize, vege-
tables. Chili pepper, and such fruits as the tem-
perature is suitable to. The native languages
«o
are the Quiche and the Mam : it coatains 41 rW-
lages/divided into 8 curacies.
Concepción Crueguetenango is the chief place
. of the district, as it anciently was of all the at-
caldia, and the head of a curacy, and is occa-
sionally the residence of the alcaldes mayor, who
then occupy houses that belong to the government;
Being under a mild and benignant climate, the soil
produces excellent fruity but the population has
so much decreased, as to number at present
barely 800 Indians and 500 Ladinos, besides
whom therecare a few Spaniards. It is 20 leagues
distant from Totonicapan, and 58 from Guate-
mala.
Chiantla, 1 league from the preceding town, is
celebrated in the country for the sanctuary of the
Yirgin of Candelaria; which, indeed, is not so dis-
tinguished for immense opulence as represented
by Gage, but it is much frequented by the inha-
bitants of this and the neighbouring provinces;
who perform pilgrimages to visit the shrine, par-
ticularly on the 2d of February and 8th of Sép^
tember, on which days the great* festivals are cele-
brated.. The image of the'Virgin is a specimen
of native talent, and was sculptured in the city of
Guatemala, by order of the Dominican fathers
(as related by Remesal, fol. 149), at the time the
place was under their directions ; they afterward
resigned their spiritual office to those of La
M^ced, who retained it until 1754, when the
sanctuary wras secularized by a* royal decree.
The climate is mild, and the soil fertile, produc-
ing plentifully grapes, oranges, figs, pears, and
other fruits. The chief article of commerce is
lead, obtained from a rich mine that also yields
81
some silver aod litharge. The population atnonnts
to 400 Ladinos, a few Spaniards, and 280 Indians.
The native language is the Mara.
Santo Domingo de Sacapulas is a large village,
but inhabited by no more Ihan 1792 Indians,
whose language is the Quiche. The climate is
hot and dry, and the productions of the soil are
similar to those in the neighbourhood of the sea
coast. The large river Sacapulas runs close by
the village ; in the pastures on the banks the
natives collect salt, which rises upon the surface
of the ground, after having been swept and irri-
gated with the river water. This was one of the
first places where the Dominicans preached the
gospel, in 1537, and where they had a convent,
founded in 1554, but is now a secular curacy.
St. Mathew Yxtatan, an appendage to the cu-
racy of Solomá, is situated in a ravine, at a short
distance from the river Lacandon, and has 1123
Indian inhabitants : the climate is very cold. The
place is remarkable for a salt-spriug, the water of
which, without any other process than evapora-
tion, yields what is called the fine Quezaltenango
salt, which is the principal article of the com-
merce carried on by the natives.
St. Francisco Motocinta, a small village ap-
pendant to the curacy of Cuilco, no otherwise
deserving of notice, than for the phenomenon of a
river near it; the water of which is of a poisonous
quality, and so active, that animals drinking of
it, die almost immediately ; when cattle are
obliged to pass the river, the owners take the
precaution of muzzling them, to prevent the cer-
tain mortality that would be the consequence of
allaying their thirst. The Indians of this place
82
weave mats of a scarlet colour, that are much
used in the country. The other villages of the
district are wholly destitute of interest.
THE PROVINCE OF QUEZALTENANGO
Is the second, in continuation of the route
already prescribed : it lies between 15 and 16 deg.
of north lat., and 93 deg. 26 min. and 94 deg. 36
niin. of west long. ; from south-east to north-west,
the length is 35 leagues, and from north-east to
south-west, the breadth is 20, forming the figure
of a spheroid. The province of Soconusco bounds
it on the west, Totonica pan on the north and east,
Suchiltepeques on the south, and Solóla on the
south-east. The number of inhabitants is be-
tween 24 and 25,000 Indians, and from 8 to 9,000
Ladinos and Spaniards : there are 26 Indian
villages, and 2 small ones of Ladinos, forming
together four curacies, viz. Quezal tenango, Saca-
tepeques, Obstuncalco, and Texutia ; in spiritual
concerns the first is a mission of the Franciscans,
as the second is of the order of La Merced, the
two others are served by secular pastors; the
village of Olintepeque is appended to St. Chris-
toval Totonicapan, and Tacana belongs to the
curacy of Cuilco, both in the jurisdiction of
Totonicapan. The temperature of t\e province
is cold, and the soil brings forth all the pro-
duce such a climate is favourable to, as wheat
and maize, potatoes, peaches, apples, quinces,
cherries, &c. The natives feed sheep, that are
the best branch of their trade ; the others Mb
wheat, manufactured cotton, and wool. The
languages in use are the Spanish, the Quiche, s^ud
the Mam. The government of the province ift
83
administered by a corregidor, and it raatntains,^
battalion of militia of 767 men.
The most remarkable river is the Siguilá^ which
in its extended course receives various names ;
the first is derived from the village of St. Miguel
Siguilá by which it flows ; in Olintepeque it is
called Xiquigil, a word signifying " a river of
blood,'' because, according to tradition, at the time
of the conquest, the waters were polluted by the
wounded and the killed \t\ the battle which Al-
varado fought with the Queche Indians ; it con-
tinnes its course by Quezaltenango, and is after-
ward joined by another river that comes from
the village of Zija ; it passes by Suñil^ and in this
part it has several warm springs on its banks ; it
then passes through the province of Suchiltepe-
ques, where it is called the Sámala, and finally
fells into the Pacific.
Quezaltenango del Espíritu Santo^ is the prin- .
cipal place in the province, and received its dis-
tinctive appellation (del Espiritu Santo) from
the circumstance of Pedro de A I varado having
achieved an important victory, on the day before
the feast of Pentecost in 1524, by which success
he conquered the entire Quichee nation. T'his
was the first place founded by the victor in' hiá
newly acquired dominion; it stands on a plain
encircted bj mountains, 40 leagues east-sooth-
east from Guatemala. It is beyond doubt the
most important, rich, and flourishing village of the
kingdom; surpassing in several respects many of
the towns and cities. The population is great,
mz.4B4: Spaniards, 5536 Ladinos, and 5000 In-
dians. The Ladinos rear large flocks of sheep»
and cultivate extensive tracts of land for wheat
o 2
84 V
and maize. There are numerous artisans in alL
branches, and 30 manufactories of fine linen cloths
of various colours, serges, and coarse cloths of
different kinds, in which 190 workmen are em-
ployed, besides several looms for the manufactory
of cotton goods. The corregidor of the province
has his residence here, there is a post office, a
depot of tobacco, under the direction of a factor,,
an accountant, and four subalterns ; others of^n-
powder, saltpetre, and playing cards, all royal
monopolies ; a custom-house, deputy commis-.
sioner of lands, and a vice consulate. The reli-
gious establishments are, a Franciscan convent
under the authority of a guardian, a curate, and
6 conve^ntuals, who administer the sacraments in
this place, which is the head of a curacy, and in^
5 other villages annexed to it; the principal
church is capacious, rich, and well furnished, in
which the chapel of Nuestra Señora del Rosario
is very curious, as well as in good taste; there
are also 5 other churches. The market is better
supplied than any other, excepting only that of
Guatemala; the annual sales averaging 18,000.
bushels of wheat, 14,000 dollars worth of cocoa,
60,000 of panelas, 12,000 of sugar, 30,000 of wool-
len cloths, and 5000 of cotton cloth, and provi^
sions of all kinds in proportion.
EI Barrio de San Marcos Sacatepeques, half
a league from St. Pedro, is a small village of
Spaniards and Ladinos, amounting to 2500 per-
sons, principally occupied in breeding cattle, and
in agriculture; the produce of the latter being
about 3000 bushels of wheat, 'and double that
quantity of maize ; they also manufacture some
woollen and linen cloths.
85
Tajumulco, an appendage to the curacy of
Texatia is a small village inhabited by about
1000 persons, regularly employed in the internal
commerce of the province ; it is, liowevef, more
remarkable for its situation at the base of a vol-
cano of the same name, that is subject to frequent
eruptions; at this place^ the soldiers of Al varado
supplied themselves with excellent sulphur, and
it continues to aíford a copious supply of that
article.
The other villages in the corregimiento are not
deserving of particular notice ; the most populous
are St. Catalina Suñil 3000 inhabitants, St. Juan
Obstuncalco 1300, St. Martin 1200, St. Pedro
Sacat^>eques 1100, Santa Cruz Comitan 1300.
PROVINCE OF SOLÓLA OR ATITAN
Is of small extent but numerously inhabited,
containing, 27,953 souls, residing in 31 villages;
it lies between 14 deg. 25 min. and 15 deg. 10
min. north lat. and between 92 deg. 46 min. and
93 deg. 46 min. west long. ; bounded on the west
by the province of Quezal tenango, on the north
by those of Totonicapan and Verapaz ; on the
east by Chimaltenango ; and on the south by Su-
chiltepeques and Escuintla : it is divided into 2
districts, called Solóla and Atitan, that formerly
were two separate corregimientos.
THE DISTRICT OF SOLÓLA
Contains 15 villages^ forming 6 curacies, viz.
Solalá with 4 villages, served by secular clergy-
men; Santa Cruz del Quiche with 2 churches;
Chichicastenango 1 church ; Jocopilos 2 churches;
Zacahah 2 churches,, and Joyabach 2 churches.
se
all belonging to the order of St Dotuii^o* Of
the Indians of this district, some speak the Quiche
and others the Kachiquel tonguea. The climate;
productions, and trade, are nearly the same .as
those of the district of Totonicapan.
The chief place of Solóla, and of the province
is the village of Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion
de Solóla, or Tecpanatitlan ; in the times of Pa-
gan idolatry, it was the residence of a prince of
the youngest branch of the royal house of the Ka-
chiquel es, as it is at present of the alcalde mayor ;
being situated on the summit of a ridge of beigbte
the temperature is cold ; the number of inhabi-
tants is nearly 5000 Indians, among whom are
many artisans, such as sculptors, weavers, potters,
and various others. It is distant 28 leagues from
Guatemala.
Santa, Cruz del Quiche is a village seated on
an es^tensive open plain, fertile in the ei^treaie,
producing grain, vegetables» and delicate frúit3, in
proportionate abandalice. It is but moderately
populous, and contains a Dominican convent with
the title of a priory. The history of this place is
singular, as itwas once the large and opulent
city Qf Utatlan, the court of the native kings of
Quiche, and indubitably the most sumptuous that
was discovered by the Spaniards in this country.
That indefatigable writer Francisco de Fuentes,
the historian, who went to Quiche for the purpose
of collecting information, partly from the antiqui-
ties of the place, and partly from manuscripts,
has given a tolerably good description of tibia
c^taJ. It stood nearly in the situation tbat
Sa^ta Cruz now occupies, and it is presumable
that the latter was one of its suburbs; it wa«
«7
sorronnded by a deep ravine that formed a natural
fosMN^, leaving only two very narrow roads a» en-
trances to the city, both of which were so well
^defended by the castle of Resguardo, as to render
it impregnable. The centre of the city was occu-
fMed by the royal palace, which was surronnded
by the iionses of the nobility ; the extremities
were inhabited by the plebeians. The streets
were very narrow, but the place was so populous»
as to enable the king to draw from it alone, no
iess than 72,000 combatants, to oppose jthe pro-
gress of the Spaniards. It contained many very
sumptuous edifices, the most superb X)f them was
a seminary, where between 5 and 6000 children
were educated; they were all maintained and
provided for at the charge of the royal treasury ;
their instruction was superintended by 70 masters
and professors. The castle of the Atalaya was a
remarkable structure, which being raised four
«tories high, was capable of furnishing quarters
for a very strong garrison. The castle of Res-
guardo was not inferior to the other; it extend-
ed 188 paces in front, 230 in depth, and was 5
«tories btgh. The grand alcazar, or palace of
the kings of Quiche, surpassed every other edifice,
and in the opinion of Torquemada, it could com-
pete in opulence with that of Moctesuma in
Mexico, or that of the iticas in Cuzco. The
front of this building extended from east to west
376 gepmetricai paces, and in depth 728; it tvas
constructed of hewn stone of different colours ;
ita fcnrm was elegant, and altogether most magni-
fioept? there were 6 principal divisions, the first
contained lodgings for a numerous troop of lan^
cers, archers, and other well disciplined troops.
86
constituting the royal body guard ; the second
was destined to the accommodation of the princeis^
and relations of the king, who dwelt in it^ and
were served with regal splendour, as long as tb^y
remained unmarried ; the third was appropriated
to the use of the kiug, and contained distinct
suits of apartmeuts, for thcv mornings, evenings,
and nights. In one of the saloons stood the throne,
under four canopies of plumage, the ascent to it
was by several steps; in this part of the palace
were, the treasury, the tribunals of the judges, the
armory, the gardens, aviaries^ and menageries,
with all the requisite offices appending to each
department. The 4th and 5th divisions were
occupied by the queens and royal concubines;
they were necessarily of great extent, from the
immense number of apartments requisite for the
accommodation of so many females, who were alt
maintained in a style of sumptuous magnificence.;
gardens for their recreation, baths, and j^oper
places for breeding geese, that were kept for the
sole purpose of furnishing feathers, with which
hangings, coverings, and other similar ornamental
articles, were made. Contiguous to this division
was the sixth and last; this was the residence of
the king's daughters and other females of the
blood royal, where they were educated, and at-
tended in a manner suitable to their rank. The
nation of the Quiches or Tultecas, extended its
empire over the greatest portion of the present
kingdom of Guatemala ; and, on the authority of
the manuscHpts mentioned above( which were com-
posed by some of the Caciques, who first acquir-
ed the.art of writing), it is relateil that from Tanub»
who commanded them, and conducted them from
^9
the old to the new continent, down to Tecum
Umam, who reigned at the period when the
Spaniards arrived, there was a line of 20 mo*
narchs. They first established themselves in the
kingdom of Mexico, where they founded the fa-
mous city of Tula, on the same spot where the ,
Tillage of Tula now stands, 14 leagues from the
city of Mexico. At a later period, their king
Nimaquiché, by the direction of his oracle, led
them from Tula to found a new monarchy; this
design however was not accomplished, and they
led a wandering life for many years, until at
length they arrived at a place where they deter-
mined to establish themselves ; this they did, and
in honour of their sovereign called it Quiche.
This prince died during their unsettled state, and
his son Acxopil succeeding him, led his numerous
host into this region; he not only acquired the
fame of having founded the Quiche monarchy^
but that of having afterward divided it into three
separate kingdoms; he reserved to himself the
dominion of Quiche; to his eldest son Jiutemal,*
he gave the kingdom of the Kachiqueles, or Gua-
temala ; and on his second son Acxiquat, he be-
stowed that of the Zutugiles, or Atitan.
THE DISTRICT OF ATITAN
Is in the western part of the province, where the
climate is generally mild, but here and there some
parts are hot, and others cold ; the soil is fruitful,
* From the name Jiotemal the word Goatemala may derire
its origio ; for it is rery natural that the country should at first
be called the kingdom of Jiutemal : and afterward by corrup-
tion it might become Guatemala : at any rate this etymology
seems more probable than that given in, page 4.
90
prodacing cocoa, maize» puke, all sorts of cali-
nary v^etables, aniseed, drags, and a ?ery great
Tariety of fruits ; among tbe latter, may be parti*
colarly distinguished the aguacates, for their ex-
traordinary size and excellence ; cochineal is also
one of its valuable productions. In these articles,
aided by the labours of cabinet-makers,carpeoters,
and potters, the inhabitants carry on a tolerably
lucrative commerce with the adjoining provinciefi^
and the metropolis. Tbe district contains IQ
villages, the greater number of them lying round
the lake of Atitan ; they form 4 curacies ; that
of Atitan has 2 churches ; St. Pedro de la Liagiuia
has 6 ; these 8 are served by the secular clergy ;
PanajaeheJ has 6, and Patulul 3« all belonging to
tbe order of St. Francis. The natives speak tbe
Zutugil and Kachiquel languages.
The chief place of tbe district is Santiago
Atitan, once the residence of the Zutugil kings ;
the lords of a powerful nation, conquered by Pe-
dro de Alvaradp in 1524 ; it stands on th^ south
side of the lake, in a mild and healthy climate,
and contains upwards of 2000 Indium inhabitants.
This village was anciently a mission belonging to
the Franciscan order, apd one of the earjiest
founded in the province ; the house has been re-
built in a better style than the original, preserving
however a part of the first structure, in comme-
moratioQ of its founder Gonzalo Méndez, and as
a. record of the abstinence and mortifications of
that apostolic pastor. It is 28 leagues west of
Guatemala.
Close to the village is the lake of Atitan, one
of the most remarkable in the kingdom, as well
from its extent, as from its peculiarities ; it covers
91
B l^igues from east to west, aiid mare tban 4
from north to south, entirely surrounded by
iiiojantainfi and rocks of irr^ular form; from
its margin there is no gradation of depth, which
is at once precipitaos, and the bottom has not
.b^^eO; found with a line of 3Q0 fathoms ; several
d^rers.dkicharge theniselves into it, and it receives
all the waters that descend from the mountains ;
bait there is no perceptible channel by which this
groat influx is carried off, a circumstance that
inep^ers pt particularly worthy of remark; the
winter is fresh,, and so cold that in a few minutes
it benumbs, and swells the limbs of those who
aj^tepiipt to swim in it: th^ only fish caught ii^ it
ar^ crabs* and a species of small fish about the
size of the little finger; these are in such count-
ies myriads» that the inhabitants of all the 10
sarroiunding villages carry on a considerable
fishery for them : the communication between one
villi^e and another is carried on by canoes.
THE PROVINCE OF CHIMALTENANGO.
Proceeding Still in the same direction as before,
the fourth province is.Chimaltraango, formerly the
seat of the powerful nation of the Kachiqueles^
the king of which Ahpotzotzil, and hi^ brother
4^hpo;icahil, the ruler of Solóla, sent an embassy
to Fernando Cortez, oflering to acknowledge
themselves vassals of the Emperor Charles the
5th, and they received Pedro de AI varad o in a
very friendly manner when he entered their states.
This province, and that of Sacatepeques, form
tc^etber what is denominated the Valley of Gua-
temala, which, from the period of the conquest,
wasunder tlie government of the ordinary alcaldes
93
of the capital, who were called corridors of the
valley, io virtue of a regulation of the council of
the Indies, granting a territory of 5 leagues in
every direction to each capital, until the year 1753,
when the president of the audiencia, in confor-
mity to instruction communicated by govern-
ment, created two alcaldias mayors. The alcaldía
mayor of Chimaltenango extends about 20 leagues
in length, and as many in breadth ; between 14
deg. 38 min. and 15 deg. 10 min. north lat. ; and
between 91 deg. 46 min. and 92 deg. 6 min. west
long. On the west it is bounded by the province
of Solóla ; on the north by Chiquimula ; on the
south by Escuintla, and on the east by Sacatepe-
ques. In general the climate is cold, but there
are, here and there, a few spots enjoying a milder
temperature. The soil produces wheat and maize,
various fruits, as peaches, quinces, figs, apples,
pears, &c. and excellent timber. The number of
inhabitants amounts to 40,082, Spaniards, Ladinos,
and Indians ; the greatest portion of whom are
labourers : they are distributed between 21 vil-
lages, and many detached manufactories, these
form 10 curacies, all served by the secular clergy.
The principal, places are,
St. Anne Chimaltenango, the capital of the
province, and residence of the alcalde mayor, is
a very large village inhabited by about 3000 In-
dians, and some Ladinos, in a cold and dry, but
healthy climate. It is seated in a very beautiful
valley, and so exactly proportioned in its local
elevation, that the drainage water of one half of
the place, and from the gutters of the right side
of the church, descend into the Atlantic, and of
t)ie other part into the Pacific Ocean. The
93 ,
pablk square is very handsome, having on one
side an extensive sheet of water. It is 11 leagues
from the metropolis.
Tecpanguatemala is a celebrated place, that re-
ceived its name from the Mexican Indians, and
which in their language means the royal house of
Guatemala^ from being the residence of the Ka-
chiquel monarchs. Here was built the second
church in the kingdom, and here, as at Sahcaja,
a religious Franciscan remained to instruct the
natives, and administer the sacraments to the
Spaniards, who were left by Pedro de Alvarado.
The climate is colder than at Chimaltenango, but
favourable to the growth of fruit, such as peaches»
plums, quinces, apples, pears^&c. &c, the inhabit-
ants exceed 3000; they are of an estimable cha-
racter and very industrious,carrying on a traffic in
wheat and maize^ which they raise in abundance;
in timber and planks that are sent to Guatemala.
Patzum has 5000 inhabitants of the Kachiqu€|l
nation, who are very industriously occupied in
similar pursuits to those of the preceding place;
the climate too is nearly the same.
Patzizia is a large place, containing not less
than 5000 inhabitants, who are all labourers ; the
climate is cold and humid.
St. Andres Itzapa is cold and dry ; its inha-
bitants^ about 1400, are employed in agriculture,
and raise wheat, maize, pulse, and vegetables;
they feed large quantities of hogs, and cure hams.
The day before the festival of St. Andrew, there
is a large fair for horses, mules, cordage, and
other commodities, held here, which attracts a
great concourse of buyers and sellers from the
surrounding country.
94
St. Martin Xilotepeque is in the mildest* clifñate
of the valley of Cbimaltenango ; the sugar caoé
cultivated here, aod is very productive, affording
full etnployment to several manufactories of that
article : there is a moderate population of Spaniards
and Ladinos, besides about 4000 Indians.
These seven places are heads of curacies, as are
St. Antonio Nexapa, St. Juan Alotenango, and
St. Miguef Milpa Dueñas.
THE PROVINCE OF SACATEPEQUES
Lies betvreen the 14th and 15th deg. of north
lat. and between 90 deg. 46 min. and 91 deg. 46
min. of west long. It is bounded on the west by
Cbimaltenango, on the north a.nd east by Cbiqui-
mula, and on the south by Escuintla. Although
situated under a benignant climate, some places
are cold, and others exposed to great heat; so
that the soil is favourable to the productions of
every temperature. The trade of the inhabitants
depends principally upon supplying the capital
with grain (chiefly nmize), fhiits, vegetables,^ hogs,
poultry, fire-wood, coals, and other articles of
domestic consumption. lu length it is not above
20 leagues, and nearly as much in breadth ; yet
it is an alcadia, and in proportion to its extent is
extremely populous, containing 42,786 inhabit-
ants of all classes ; but iá this number, the popu-
lation of Old and New Guatemala is not inóhided.
The city of New Guatenmla, the towns of Old
Guatemala and Petapa, are in this province, be-
sides 48 villages, atid many detached farms. It'
is subdivided into 18 curacies, of which there are
4 in New Guatemala, I in Old Guatemala, and
13 among the villages, &c. the heletds of which are
95
AlmoloDgBy St. Juao, St. Pedro, St. Luke Sftca-
tepeques, Amatitan, Petapa, Mixco, Pínula, Si.
Juan del Obispo, St. Sebastian del Texar, Suttf-
pango, Jocotetiango, and St. Raymond de fas
Casillas.
The most remarkable rolcanoes of the country
are in this district, the one called the water toU
catio^ is the most lofty in the kingdom, and ex^
ceeded in height by very few in the world, it is
of a conical figure, covered to the summit with
trees that always retain their verdure, and pre-
sent a most agreeable prospect to the eye. To
the northward of this mountain standi the town
of Old Guatemala, on the eastward' the Vofcano
of Pacaya, and to the westward that called Vol*
can d"e Fuego (the volcano of fire), which, accord-
ing to the last demarcation of the provinces, pro-
perly belongs to the jurisdiction of Cbiúaalte-
nango. From both these mountains there have
been violetit eruptions, the most remarkable on
record was that from Pacaya, July 11, 1775, and
thoáe from the Volcan de Fuego in the years 1623,
1706, 1710, and 1T17. At the base of the latter
there is a thermal spring, the water of which is
* This moiiDtam bts been called a volcaaa by the &)ittiiianlt
mth singular impropriety, as there exists uo traditioa of its
having ever emitted fire ; nor have there been found, at any
time, on its sides, or in the Vicinity of it, any calcined matter,
or other mark of volcanic eruption ; the term volcano,' there<^
fore, cannot be justly applied. In 1541, there was a violent
eruption, not of fire, but an immense torrent of water and
stoaea was vomited fi^m the crater, that caused great havoc»;
and destroyed the old city. Father Remesa!, in his History of
the Province of St. Vincente, lib. iv. cap. 5, relates, that on this
odciAioti, the crown of the mountain fell down: the height of
this detached part was 1 league, and afterward, from the re-
maining summit to the plains below, was a distance of 3 leagues»
which, be aflirins, hé measured in 1615.
96
very hot, and of great repute io the cure of several
disorders ; it is called St. Andrew's Bath, from
being situated near the village of that name:
there is, near the same place, another warm bath,
that emits a strong sulphuric smell, and is an
efficacious remedy for the itch.
Almolonga is distinguished as having been the
spot where the Spaniards first established the
city of Guatemala, and is now sometimes called
Cuidad Vieja (the old city). In 1542, the capital
was removed to a situation about a league to the
north-east of this place ; however, some Spaniards
and Ladinos, and all the Indians, chose to remain
in their ancient habitations. The cqnvent of Fran-
ciscans was not removed, and the charge of ad-
ministering the sacraments in the old town was
intrusted to it. When the alcaldia mayor of Sa-
catepeques was created, this place became the
head of it, a distinction which it retained for
many years. It was one of the largest, most beau-
tiful, and best situated villages in the kingdom ;
but, by the second removal of the capital to the
valley of the Virgin, 9 leagues distant, it has
greatly decreased in population, by a part of the
inhabitants having established themselves in a
little village (also called Cuidad Vieja), which was
formed near New Guatemala; nevertheless, above
2000 Indians, and many Ladinos, remained in
Almolonga. The parochial church is very splen-
did, and the image of the Virgin, that is worship-
ped in it, stands in very high repute. The climate
is cold. The principal employment of the inha-
bitants is supplying the capital with fruit, which
they procure from the more distant villages. The
natives of this place assume the privileges of no-*
97
bility^ as being descended from the Mexicans»
Tlascaltecas, and others, who leut their asmst^
anee to the Spaniards at the conquest; on tl)is
account they are exempte'd from paying any other
tribute thaá 2 reals a head, as an acknowledg*
ment of royal service.
Old Guatemala, anciently a city, and the me-
tropolis of the Jcingdom, now distinguished as a
town, is the capital of the province of Sacatepe*
ques ; and, by order of government^ the residence
of the alcalde mayor. In the year 1799, it was
invested with the distinction and privil^es of a
town (in consequence of a royal decree, dated
Aug. 4, 1786), when two alcaides and a syndic
were^ppoÍDted,from among theSpanish residents,
for its government, and the better administration
of justice. It contains 3 parishes, Nuestra Se&orñ
de iú^ Remedios, Nuestra Señora de la Cande-
laria, and St. Sebastian, each formed of a division
of the town, and sotne ^f the amall villages ad-*
jacent. Besides the parish churches, there are
two others, dedicated to the SantisskRaTri nidada
del Chajon, and Si. Joseph ; and 3 hospiciofit»
or religious houses, of the orders ofSU Francis,
La Merced, and Bethlem, in wMcb reside a few
religieax, who serve the church, and take care of
the convent . The tatter h^* received the par-
ticular a^robation of the king, from, having
been the cradie of the Bethlemite order, and
built at the sole expense of its founder. In the
general chapter hjeld at Mexico» on the 1st Dec.
1798, this hospicio was confiroied, and an order
made that a president and 2 conventuals, at the
least, should always reside in it. Since the trans-
bttian of the city, there have been from 7 to 8000
H
98
lohabitaQts in this town; some Spaniards^ but the
greater proportion Ladinos.
St. Juan Sacatepeques was, for some time, the
head of the alcaldia ; it is now the most populous
village of the province, containing upwards of
5000 Indians, 75 Spaniards, and 336 Ladinos ;
the latter are chiefly employed in sugar manu-
factories, and the Indians in agriculture : it is a:
very handsome place ; the climate is cold, but not
in the extreme; the air salubrious, the soil of
great fertility, and the market plentifully supplied.
Villa Nueva de Petapa, a village of Ladinos,
situated on a delightful plain, 4 leagues from the^
metropolis. It is well built, with a spacious
plaza, or square^ and the streets running at right
angles : there are some very good houses, a large
and handsome church, dedicated to the holy con-
ception, and an oratory. The inhabitants are
chiefly employed in the culture of maize.
There is another village of the same name,' with
the addition of St. Michael, bearly a league dis-
tant from the preceding, inhabited by about 1000
Indians, whose chief employment is supplying
the capital with plantains, which grow on the
lands about the village; and with the moharra, a
species of fish, which they catch in a part of the
Lake Amatitan. The two places were formerly
united, and formed a large village^ that carried
on a considerable trade. The Indians had their
separate church, with a regular curate, and the
Ladinos their secular minister ; but, in 1762, the
place was so much injured by an inundation, that
spread over a great part of the kingdom, as to
determine the inhabitants to seek another domi*
cile : on this occasion the Ladinos separated from.
99
the Indians, and formed the village described in
the preceding article. -
St. Juan Amatitan is a village of great cele-
brity, and the bead of a curacy. It is seated on
a plain, surrounded by very high mountains,
wbich give it rather a melancholy aspect; but,
being in the vicinity of the Lake Amatitan,*" hav-
ing a beautiful river flooring on the eastern side
of it, the fine climate, and the contiguity to the
capital, occasion it to be very much frequented
by the inhabitants of that city, who retire thither,
some for the purpose of drinking the water of the
river, which js a specific in many cases ; others to
take the baths, and others again for their recrea-
tion. The situation of the place is well chosen,
the streets are broad and straight; the houses
commodious', and the market well supplied. There
is an oratory, and a large respectable church,
which contains an image of the infant Saviour,
that is held in such high esteem by the devout, as
to attract a great concourse of visitants from the
neighbouring, and even from distant villages, par-
ticularly on the first Sunday in May, when the
principal festival is celebrated. The sacred effigy
was originally placed in a little hermitage, about
3 leagues distant, at a place called Bethlehem;
but) to prevent the mischiefs occasioned by large
meetings in retired places, the archbishop of
.Guatemala ordered it to be transferred to the
parish church in 1789. The inhabitants bre for
the greater part Ladinos, the Indians amounting
to about 200, each party having an alcalde of its
ovRO cast. The people employ themselves on the
lake, where they take moharra, crabs, and cray-
fish, which they dispose of in Guatemala ; in rais*
H 2
100
iog melons and water melons, for the same mar-
ket^ and in tbe manufacture of baskets and mats»
The lake of Amatitan deserves notice, less for
its size» which is about 3 leagues in length, and 1
in breadth at the widest part» than fortheadvan^
tages it affords» viz. the produce of fish is so
great, as to furnish an abundant and never-failing
supply for the consumption of the capital : it doea
not produce those of the larger kinds, but the
moharras, generally about a foot in length, are of
excellent flavour; and the pepescas, a very small
fish, not exceeding 3 inches in length, are a
very great delicacy: it also affords crabs, cray-
fish, and another species called pescaditos. The
shores of. the lake produce salt, in which the in-
habitants carry on a considerable trade. There
are also on the borders of it several warm springs,
very beneficial in many diseases, particularly in
the complaint called güegüechos, -a swelling of
the throat, to which a great propc^tion of the fe-
males of the country are subject.
There is another village, called St* Cbristoval
de Amatitan, about 3 leagues from St. Juan, that
has latterly been brought into notice, by a dis-
covery made in it of a cure for cancers, which is
effected by catinga species of lizard found there
(this remedy, indeed, does not cure when the
complaiut has acquired great strength, but it nev^r
fails to alleviate it): the Indians have used this
medicine from the earliest peridds, but tbe Spa-
niards only began, in 1780, to have recourse to it.
St. Sebastian del Texar, the head of a curacy,
is situated in the valley of Chimahenango, and
contains a moderate population, chiefly of La-
dinos. The only object worthy of notice witjiln
101
its jartsdictiofi is a medicinal spring, of gre^t
•beDefit in several diseases.
- St. Doiningo Mixeo, a village situated on the
declivity of a mountain, commanding a view over
die. extensive valley of Mixco, in which the city
of New Guatemala is seated; The inhabitants
^re {jadinos add Indians ; the former carriers
and labourers, and tlie latter employed in the
culture of maize, and in potteries. Near this
place there is a vitriolic spring, the water of which
has bean found vecy efficacious in th^ cure of
diarrhcea.
' St. Catalina Pinula-, a village of a moderate
dze, inhabited by 6Ü Spaniards^ 567 Ladinos,
and 851 Indians. It stands at the foot of a ridge
of mountains, called Canales, 2 leagues south-^
east of Guatemala. In this place thei^e is a semi-
nary for the education of females (an estajblish-
ment not tobe found in any other village), in which
several young persons lead a retired life, and
others resort to it for the purpose of acquiring the
arts and accomplishments appropriate to the sex.
Those on the establishment of the college, as it is
called, maintain themselves by the labour of their
hands, the fruits of their gardens, and the pro-
duce of their bee-hives, the wax of which they/
have acquired tíie art of bleaching in great per-
fection v the regulation and government of this
college are so tvell conducted, that it has ob-
tained a royal confirmation.
Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion Jocotenango, a
irillage contiguous to Old Guatemala, once cour
tained above 4000 Indians^ and a considerable
number of Ladinos; they were mostly day lar
bourers, in the employment of artificers, and in
102
manuiactories^ When the capital was transferred
from its old to the present situation, many of the
Ladinos^ and some of the Indians, preferred re-
maining in their accustomed habitations ; but the
major part of the latter went to New Guatemala,
and formed a village in theyicinityof the city, where
they have continued, pursuing the same occupa^
tions they formerly followed. On the day pre*
ceding the feast of Assumption, there is a fair hedd
in this village for horses, mules, and general mér*
chandise, which is usually very numerously at«
tended.
The hermitage of Assumption is situated in
the valley of Las Vacas ; it is a small place, in^
habited by a few Spaniards, Ladinos, and In-i^
dians ; first settled in the year 1620, or soon after,
when the hermitage of the Virgin del Carmen
was founded ; and, in order that á congr^atíon
might not be wanting for that church, about 20
families of Indians were persuaded to leave the
mountains called the Ganalitos, and settle near
the hermitage, by obtaining for theni a rpyal de-
cree, that exempted them from paying tribute.
These families having greatly multiplied in the
valley, where they lived dispersed, and wishing
to be collected on one spot, in the year 1675,
they presented a petition to the president, Don
Fernando de Escobedo, praying that he would
assign a place for their settlement, grant lands for
their subsistence, and permit the curate of Las
Vacas to transfer the church, that was situated on
the River Las Vacas, in the wilds, to the new
settlement. The request was complied with on
the 2d of September, in the same year, as appears
from the public acts passed before the notary.
103
Perez de Rivera, and now preserved in the ar-^
chives.* A capacious church was immediately be*
gun, but not completed until 1723, when it was
dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgiii, be-
cause the transfer of the first Indians who inha-
bited the plaice had been made on the eve of that
festival : public worship was performed, during
the building of the church, at the hermitage
del Carmen. This little village had formerly
its peculiar curate, also an ordinary alcalde and
2 regidors chosen from the Spaniards ; and an-
other alcalde and 2 regidors from the Indians;
but, at present, from being so close to the ca-
pital, it is considered as .one of the suburbs, and
the jurisdiction of it belongs, to the alcaldes of
the city : the curacy of the hermitage is united to
that of Candelaria, in the metropolis.
Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe^ a town occupied
by Ladinos, and recently built, at the solicitatioa
of the corporation of Guatemala, with the de-
sign of employing the inhabitants in the cultiva-
tion of fruit and vegetables, to supply the mar*^
kets of the city. On the 17th of April, 1799;
the first stone of the church was laid by the arch-
bishop andother persons of the first rank, and on
the 12th of December, 1803, it was consecrated.
The other villages in the province of Sacate-
peques do not present any thing worthy of being
detailed ; we jnay, therefore, proceed with a de-
scription of its principal feature, the city of Gua-
temala, which shall form the subject of a sepi^rate
chapter.
104
CHAP. V.
The Topographical Description of the
City of Old Guatemala.
Thb city of OJd Guatemala, once the metropolis
ofthekingdofn^the seat of an archbishop, and one
of the handsomest cities of the New World, was
founded by Pedro de Aivarado, on the day of the
festival of St. James, in the year 1524, on which
accoiunt ü is generally called the City of Santiago
^ los Caballeros de Guateoiala; and supposed
to be under the especial patronage of that saiut ;
for w-hich reason the metropolitan church wai^
endoMi/ied by Pope Julius the Third, in 1551, with
all the privileges and indulgences enjoyed by the
celebrated chuirch of St. Jago, in Galicia, St.
{Oeoijria is also considered patroo^ss d* the city,
because the kings of the Kacbiquel nation, who re^
i^eiived the Spaniards with n^arks of friendship and
j^ubmii^ion in 1624, but who revolted frooi them
Í9 1526, were effectually subdued on St. Cecilia's
day : in cammemoration of this victory, the royal
£^tai^dard íb annually, an that festival, borne in
IMfQceasiQi^ through the city, accompanied by the
gOiVfirnoj, all the officern o/ state, the clergy, and
ihe li^biUty ; and becauae the Me:icican and Tlas-
Hfialteca Indians of Almolonga, aided the Spa-
^ards in the expedition agaips^t the Kaohiqueles^,
Ih^ir descendant^ are entitled to join the annual
jp^^mX, whiph they do, clothed ip jwilitary hs^
bits, armed with muskets and lances, ai^d dibr
tinguished by appropriate banners; some of the
chief persons of the tribes sling behind their
«boulders bows elegantly adorned with feathers
105
i^i¥l j^Wfla, i;irhich greatly add to the splendour
of tbe exhibition. As the capital of the kiogdom»
il was tbe cesideoce of the governor and captaior
genera}, who is also pr^$ident of the chancery
js^d the royal audiei^cia. The chancery, erected
in 154% was tben^ as it now is» copi posed of
a president, a regent, 4 oidoi*s or judges, 2 fia-
cals, a chief jsilguacil, and a chancellor, SI secre»-
taries, and a cooipetent number of subaltern
^flKcers,. The pMbliq bodies at the seat of go-
Teroment are a general board of intestacy (Juz-
gado-g^i^ral jde Intestados), and another of
jands; the royal superior tribunal of accounts;
the royal caxa-matriz, or general treasury; a
boar^ 0f «ustojns; administration of the posl-
;office; a g0iieral directory of tobacco; adminis-
tration of gunpowder, and playing cards ; tribur
Utal of the cruzada (to direct the means of conr
verting the Indians); (he royal consulate; the
joyal mini; and the illustrious cabildo, or the
counciJ.of justice and government of tbe most
loyal and nobje city of Guatemala, to which body
the Emperor Charles the Fifths in 1532, granted
ar^iorial bearings^ — viz. a shield, charged with 3
mountajns on a field Gules, tbe centre one vo-
mitii^fire^ and sufmounted by tji^e Apostle 31
Jano^, on horsel^tck* arm^, and blandishing a
sword ; an Orle, wUh 8 shells Qt, on a field.
Azure; crest, a crown. In 1566, Philip the Se-
jcond granted the title of most loyal and most
noble city. Tbe illustrious cabildo is composed
pf 2 alcaldes, a royal standard-bearer, alguacil
mayor, a provincial alcalde, 8 regidors, and a
syndic. T^e royal and pontifical university of
St. Carlos, and the Protomedicato^ or college of
106
physicians, are noble ornaments to the city : the
first of these bodies was founded by Charles the
Second, in 1676, and confirmed by Pope Inno-
cent the Eleventh, in 1687, who granted to it all
the privileges enjoyed by the universities of Mex-
ico and Lima; it has 12 professorships and a
public library: the academic senate at present
consists of more than 50 doctors. The latter
was instituted by royal permission, in 1793, and
IS composed of a president, 2 examiners, and a
fiscal. The economical society of Friends of the
kingdom was instituted in 1795, and confirmed by
royal decree of the 21st of October, in the saine
year, although its functions were suspended, in
1799, by royal authority; it had subsisted long
enough to leave lasting memorials of its progress
in the academies of drawing and models which k
established, and which are carefully preserved ;
and in the royal cabinet of natural history, that
it laid the basis of. Besides these institutions»
there are 3 schools for the gratuitous instruction
of youth in the initiatory branches of literaturey
and 2( classes of Latin grammar.
The city is the capital of the archbishopric of
Guatemala ; it was made a bishoprick in 1534, by
Pope Paul the Third, and raised to the rank of
metropolitan in 1742, by ^Benedict the Four-
teenth ; the bishops of Nicaragua, Chiapa, and
Comayagua, are suffragans to it The service of
the cathedral is performed with great diligence,
and no less magnificence, by its venerable chap-
ter, consisting of a dean, 4 dignitaries, 4 canons,
and by 2 curate rectors, 2 sacristans, 10 chap-
lains, 6 acolites, and other ministers ; 2 colleges,
the Tredentine and the Infantes, and a numerous
.107
choir. There are 4 parishes, viz. the Sanctuary,
St Sebastian, our Lady of Candelaria, and Los
Remedios : 7 convents, the Dorakiican, the Fran-
ciscan, and La Merced, which are heads of pro-
vinces, and of the scholastic establishments ; St.
Augustine, Juan de Dios, Bethlem, and the col-
lege of Missionaries de Propaganda fide; the
congregation of St. Philip Neri ; and there was
EBUtnerly a college of Jesuits : 5 nunneries, viz. 2
of the order of La Conception, 1 Barefoot Car-
melites, 1 Capuchin, and 1 of the Clarizas : 3 re-
ligious houses for female^ ; 2 of the Dominican
order, 1 for Spaniards, and 1 for Indians, and the
third for the order of Bethlem : 2 seminaries for
female instruction : 4 hospitals, viz. St. Pedro,
for ecclesiastics, St. Jago, for Spaniards,. St.
Alexis, for Indians, and Bethlem, for convales-
cents; the first three are under the care of the
fathers of St. Juan de Dios, and the fourth is
superintended by the Bethlemite sisters: there
are also 2 numerous communities ; one professing
the rules of the third order of Franciscans, and the
other those of the Carmelites; and 40 fraternities*
The population of Guatemala, according to the
census taken in 1795, amounted to 24,434 indi-
vidualsof all ranks and casts;* among the no*
bility there is 1 title of marquis, and many fami-
lies, descendants of the most illustrious houses of
Old Spain. The Guatcmaltecans are in gene-
ral docile, humane, courteous, liberal, affable to
strangers, and inclined to piety; but to these
* Since tbat period the number of inhabitants has increased
very much, and it may now be stated, without danger of exag-
geration, to exceed 30,000.
108
good qoalitieis, weakness, pusiltanimity, ami in-
dolence, are usually superadded; tbey possess
genius, and an aptness for the arts, which is
demonstrated by the great number of handi-
craftsmen in all trades, among whom there have
been produced artisans of superior talents ; but
those who acquire most celebrity are the silver-
smiths, sculptors, and musicians: the produc-
tions of the sculptors are eagerly sought after, not
only in this country, but in Mexico, and even
some that have been carried to Europe have been
highly esteemed by connoisseurs. The class of
weavers is numerous, and their looms produce
fine muslins and gauzes, calicoes, and common
cottons that are used in general wear by the
poor people of the country. The potters are also
a numerous tribe, who furnish earthenware and
china sufficient for all the provinces ; in the ma-
nufacture of some articles they excel so much, as
to turn them out of hand but little inferior to the
porcelain of Germany. Among the females there
are excellent embroiderers, mantua- makers, and
florists, who make artificial flowers, that vie with
the productions of nature ; great numbers of this
sex aré employed in the manufacture of a species
of cigars, called tuza, that are peculiar to this
country; others spin cotton-yarn of every degree
of fineness. This city has given birth to many il-
lustrious men, eminently distinguished for their
exemplary piety, and renowned for their literary
talents ; the catalogue is. too long to give in de-
tail, it may, therefore, suffice to mention a few
who have acquired a lasting reputation ; viz.
Christoval Flores, of the order of Franciscans,
109
sprung from one of the most noble families of
Guatemala, suffered a cruel death for preaching
Christianity in Algiers, iñ 1627.
Diego de la Cerda, of the order of La Merced,
was torn in pieces by four horses, at Constan-
tinople, for preaching Christianity.
Bias de Morales, a Franciscan, of a noble race
and exemplary life, was the promoter of various
pious establishments, and died in 1646.
Alonzo Sanchez, a secular priest, who was
distinguished for his estimable character and emi-
nent virtues; he died in 1652; and such was the^
esteem for his abilities and good qualities, that he
was honoured by a public funeral ; he was buried^
in the cathedral, at which solemnity the royal
audiencia, the cabildos, clergy, and other persons^
of distinction, assisted.
Juan Bautista Alvarez de Toledo, of the order
of St. Francis, and of an illustrious family,* who,
for his great literary acquirements, was raised to •
the highest dignities of' his order, to the Duns
Scotus professorship in the nniversity of St. Car-
los, and successively to the episcopal chairs of
Chiapa, Guatemala, aud Guadalajara; he died in
his native country in 1726, leavjng a great number
of pious foundations of his own establishment.
Juan de Padilla, a secular ckrgyman, celebrated
not only for his profound knowledge in theology,
* A vulgar error, by which Leal, Alcedo, and other authors,
have been misled, would deprive Guatemala of the honour of
having given birth to this eminent character, the only one of
ber sons who ever obtained the mitre : it is asserted, but upon
what authority does not appear, that he was a native of St. Sal*
vador (city); this, however, is disproved by the registry of his
baptism, in the books of the parish of the Sanctuary in Gua-
temala»
iro
but for his skill in the mathematics, in which he
made an extraordinary progress ; it is asserted that
he left some curious and valuable manuscripts in
this branch of science, but at present the only work
we possess of this learned man, is a treatise on
the principal rules of Practical Arithmetic, print-,
ed at Guatemala in 1732: he died in 1749.
Miguel de Zilieza y Velasco, of a noble family,
doctor and professor of laws in the university,
provisor and vicar-general of the bishopricks of
Guatemala and Leon; canon, director of the
choir, and auxiliary bishop of his native place ;
and ultimately bishop of Ciudad fleal» where he
died in 1768.
Antonio de Pineda y Ramirez, first lieutenant
of the Rojal Spanish guards; he was intrusted*
with the department of natural history^ iu the ex-
pedition which circumnavigated the globe under
the command of Don Alexander M alaspina.
Ignacio Ceballos^ a man of noble extraction^
and great erudition, who*by his merit was raised
to the dignity of dean of the churches of Mexico
and Seville; he was a member of the Royal Spa-
^ nish academy, and his name is inscribed in the
number of those who were employed in compiling
the dictionary of the Spanish language.
Miguel Gutierres, ex-jesmt, after having served
several honourable offices belonging to his order,
died at Rome iu 1794: hist life, written in Latin
by Luis Maniero, has been published.
Having noticed the political bodies, the popu-
lation, and different classes of the inhabitants ;
the soil, climate, buildings, and other particulars
come nejft in order : to describe these distinctly,
it wiH be necessary to advert to the 3 different
Ill
situations of the capital, which are designated ad
Ciudad Vieja, Old Guatemala^ and New Guate-
niala.
La Ciudad Vieja. The site chosen for this
place, in 1524, between the two volcanoes, was
only a temporary one, until a more convenient
spot could be selected for its forióal establish-
ment; but not discovering another situation of-
fering, superior advantages to the. first choice, the
inhabitants determined to reiiiain where they had
already settled, and to es^teod their buildings a
little to the eastward, upon the skirt of the moun-
tain called the Volcan de Agua; aplace of great
fertility, very pleasant, under a fine climate,
healthy, and abundantly supplied with excellent
water. On this spot, they commenced building
the city on the 22d of November, 1527, and in a
short space of time they had erected a decent
cathedral, convents of Dominicans, Franciscans,
and Merced arians; her mitas, or religious houses
of Los Remedios and Vera Cruz ; houses for the
cabildos, and a hospital. After 14 years* pro--
gress, farther improvements were stopped by a
<»latmty. that finally .diE«:iíd;ed its fate: On the
night of September the 11 th^ 1541, an eruption of
water from the mountain took place, when a tor-
rent so immense rolled down from the summit^
sweeping before it large trees and enormous rocks^
that the city was overwhelmed, the buildings de-*
stroyed, and great part of the inhabitants buried
beneath the ruins. This irreparable disaster
compelled the survivors to seek another settle-
ment, and they fixed upon the place where Old
Guatemala stands, about a league north-east of
Ciudad Vieja.
In a delightful valley, shut in by mountainá
112
and hills that always retain their verdure, stands
Old Guatemala, encompassed by meadows and
lands which supply pasturage to large herds of
cattle. Within' the circuit of two- leagues it is
surrounded by not less than 30 villages, all of
them deriving their main support from the various
productions they furnish for the consumption of
the city. The inhabitants of these villages are
employed in all the useful trades ; there are ma-
sons, bricklayers, bakers, butchers, weavers,
gardeners, in fact, artisans and workmen of all
descriptions; they raise maize, pulse, vegetables,
fruits, flowers, in short, they supply the markets
so well as to leave no wish unsatisfied, either with
the comforts or delicacies of life. Two rivers run.
through the valley, and present to the gardens and
meadows, farms and country-houses every conve-
nience for irrigation. The climate is extremely
i^reeable, and in so happy a medium, that heat or^
cold neverpredominatestotheii\jury of vegetation ;
but a perpetual spring presents its varied bounties.
The city extends about 12 manzanas^ in the nar-
rowest part ; the streets are broad, straight,, and
well paved, running in right lines from east fco>
west, and from north to south, except in the sub-
urbs, where there are many both narrow and ir-
regular. There are numerous fountains, supplied
with water from three diflferent springs, and which
is also diffused' into all parts of the city by pipes,
so that there is scai^cely a house without 3 or 4 cis-
terns regularly replenished : there are large reser-
voirs in thestreets and public places ; that in the
Great Square is worthy of notice, being con-
• A manzana is a solid square of bouses, formed by the inter-
sections of streets at right angles. It varies in extent from 150
to 360 vards in front.
113
structed entirely of stone, very well wrought,
and filled by two different streams that fall into it
on opposite sides. The consistorial houses de-
serve attention, both for the solidity of building,
and their excellent distribution, as well as for an
elegant corridor fronting the square, formed by
columns and arches of masonry. There are 38
edifices appropriated to religious worship and es-
tablishments, viz. the cathedral, 3 parish churches,
and 16 others, 8 convents for men, 8 for women^
the congregations of St. Philip Neri, and of Cal-
vary, and 11 chapels. The cathedral isa mag-
nificent temple, more than 300 feet long, 120
broad, and nearly 70 high, lighted by 50 windows;
it has 3 aisles, and 8 chapels on each side, of
which those of the Sanctuary and Nuestra Señora
del Socorro are very spacious ; the decorations
consist of beautiful statues, paintings of the best
masters, many inestimable relics, and numerous
utensils of gold and silver. The grand altar
stood under a cupola, supported by 16 columns,
faced with tortoiseshell, and adorned with medal*
lions in bronze of exquisite workmanship ; on the
cornice are placed the statues of the Virgin and
the 12 Apostles, in ivory. In this sumptuous
edifice, to which there are 7 spacious entrances,
repose the ashes of Pedro de Alvarado, the con»
queror of the country, of Francisco Marroquin,
the first bishop, 8 of his successors, and of many
other illustrious men. The church of St. Do-
mingo deserved notice by its elegant design, great
elevation, capacious vestibule, and splendid de-
corations, among which was a statue of the Vir-
gin del Rosario, nearly 6 feet in height, of massive
silver. In the church of St. Francis, one of the
I
114
largest ia the city, were 3 alcoves, beautifully
and richly adorned, which contributed greatly to
the splendour of the grand altar; the singularly
curious chapel of our Lady of Loretto, in which
the image of the Virgin of Alcantara* is wor-
shipped ; at the portal there are several statues of
saints done in stucco, and enamelled, which far
exceed any thing of the kind in the kingdom.
But the greatest treasure, in popular estimation^
belonging to the church, are the mortal relics of
Pedro de San José de Betancurt,t that are pre-
served under the safeguard of three keys, in a
niche on the left hand side of the presbytery.
The church of the College of Jesuits, and that of
Nuestra Señora de la Merced, each spacious, and
with three aisles, possess their due share of mag*
nificence. The Dominican, Franciscan, and M er-
cedarian convents, are the most remarkable for
their size^ solidity of the building, neatness, and
convenient arrangement of their respective offices.
Of the convents belonging to the religieuses, that
of La Concepción is the largest ; it is said to have
been forme.rly inhabited by upwards of 1000 per-
sons, nuns, pupifó, and servants. The dreadful
* This image is not without its miracle, for it appears (from
recordsjuridically authenticated, obtained in the year 1601, and
preserved in the archives of the convent), that it is the identical
image which was worshipped at Alcantara in Estremadura,
where the tradition was, that it had been found in the river
Tagus, enclosed with the infant Don Pelayo, in a chest, and the
preservation of the prince was attributed to the special protec-
tion of his virgin patroness.
t Pedro de Betancurt was a priest, native of thie island of
Teneriffe, who settled in Guatemala ; he was held in great esti-
mation by the populace, who believed that he wrought miracles :
the subject of his beatification was warmly debuted in the Romish
conclave, but not carried^ however Pope Clement the Four-
teenth, on the 25th of July, 1771, declared that his virtues
were entitled to the most heroic degree.
115
calamity of earthquake has repeatedly vipited this
city, and has rendered all its local advantages
unavailing : the most memorable disasters it has
sustained from this cause, are those of the years
1565, 1577, 1586, 1607, 1651, 1663, 1689, 1717,
1751, and 1773. Wearied by these misfortunes,
and of rebuilding only to experience repeated de-
structions, the inhabitants at length determined,
after the shock of 1773, which left one part of the
city in ruins, and severely injured the rest, to
change, for the third time, their situation, and
choose a spot farther removed from the volca-
noes, the prolific source of so many horrors to
them, and where they would be less exposed to
similar miseries; they therefore, after many exa-
minations, chose the plain of La Virgen, in the
valley of Mixco, where, in 1776, was founded the
new metropolis, in virtue of a royal decree, bear-
ing date July 21st, 1775, which ordained that the
new city should be called New Guatemala de la
Asuncion, because the last chosen spot was with-
in the curacy of the hermitage, called La Asun-
cion de Nuestra Señora.
NEW GUATEMALA
Stands on a spacious plain of 5 leagues diame-
ter, watered by several small rivers and lakes,
that greatly conduce to its fertility^ in a delightful
climate^ where the inhabitants scarcely know a
change of temperature. The city forms a square
about 15 manzanas each way ; it is divided into 4
quarters, and the quarters into 2 barrios or wards,
each superintended by its peculiar alcalde^ elected
annually from the residents, and exercising his
jurisdiction under the control of the judge of
116
the quarter^ who is always a minister of the royal ^
audiencia. For the administration of spiritual
concerns, the city is divided into 3 parishes, each
extending its whole length from east to west, and
embracing a third part of it from north to south ;
the centre is called the parish of the Sanctuary
of the Cathedral ; the northern side, St. Sebas-
tian's, and the southern, Los Remedios. The
streets, which cross each other at right angles,
are 12 yards broad, the greater part of them
paved : the houses, although rather low, to miti-
gate the violence of future earthquakes, are built'
in a good style, very commodious, and judicious-
ly decorated, — nearly all of them enjoying the
advantage of kitchen and pleasure gardens, with
two, three, and even more reservoirs of water. The
great square is a rectangle 150 yards each way,
paved all over, and having a colonade on each
side. The eastern side presents the grand en-
trance to the cathedral, with the archiepiscopal
palace on the right, and the college de Infantes
on the left; on the opposite side stand the royal
palace, the hall of the audiencia, and offices be-
longing to that tribunal, the chamber of accounts,
the treasury, and the mint ; on the north side are
the houses of the corporation, prisons, markets,
public granary, &c. ; and on the south side, the
custom-house, and the marqtiezado de Aizinena,
&c. In the middle there is a large stone fountain
of very superior workmanship, supplied with wa-
ter, brought by means of pipes from the mountains
to the south-east, upwards of two leagues distant;
from the same source twelve public reservoirs in
different places and streets, besides many belong-
ing to the convents and private iiouses, derive
117
their supplies. This aqueduct is ia some places
carried over valleys upon an extensive range of
arches, and in others through hills by excavations,
that have cost immense labour to complete. From
the south-west there has been another stream of
• VFater brought into the city by similar means, and
although from a greater distance, it has, from the
nature of the country through which it passes,
been effected with much less difficulty. The ca-
thedral is small, but in a fine style of architecture,
and not yet completed ; the pedestals and capi-
tals of the columns, the vaultings of the chapels,
and many other parts of it, are executed in a
manner that entitles them to the admiration of a
scientific observer. . Many other churches and
convents are still in a progressive state ; and, ex-
cept the Jesuits college with its dependencies,
andli of the minor churches, intended to be si-
milar to those already mentioned in old Guate-
mala. But besides those spoken of at the former
place, there are the college of Seises, the female
seminaYy called the Visit^^tion, the Hermitage del
Carmen, situated on the summit of a hill near the
city, and that of our Lady of Guadalupe. On the
north-east adjoining the city there is an extensive
suburb, divided into 2 quarters, and 4 barrios,
over which the 2 ordinary alcaldes are the pre-
siding magistrates : the parish of La Candelaria,
and the college of the Visitation are in this divi-
sion, the streets of which are crooked and irregu-
larly built. Although not surrounded by so many
villages as old Guatemala, the markets of the new
city are equally well furnished with provisions of
all descriptions from the same sources, and the
great markets present a choice of vegetables, fruit.
118
flowers, poultry, game, eggs, and other commodi-
ties not often surpassed in any region.
New Guatemala is in 14 deg. 40 min. north lat»,
91 deg. 46 min. west long., 9 leagues from old Gua-
temala, ISOfrom Ciudad RealdeChiapa, 144 from
the city of Gamayagua, 183 from Leon, 400 from*
the city of Mexico, 90 from the Atlantic Ocean,
26 from the Pacific, 195 from the boundary of New
Spain, and 480 from that of Terra Firma.
CHAP. VI.
Chronological Account of the City of Ghiatemála. ,
The existence of the antipodes was a problem,
that for many ages excited the attention of philo-
sophers, producing, as might be expected, opposite
opinions among them : and although the hiero-
glyphics, sculptures, and other monuments of
Egyptian mythology, discovered by the Spaniards
in the new world ; and the traces of the sacred
mysteries of Christianity, almost effaced as they
were by Paganism, but still perceptible among
the natives, forbid our denying that there had been
at some very remote period, an intercourse between
the inhabitants of the two hemispheres, all idea of
it was so completely effaced from the memory of
mankind, that in the 8th century. Pope Zachary
condemned as a heretic^ a certain Yirgilius, who
had supported the hypothesis of the antipodes.
The time at length arrived, when this important
problem was solved by the science and intrepidity
of Christopher Colon, or Columbus, a Genoese,
the most eminent navigator, and consummate ma-
thematician of his age» He, either from the pe-
119
netratioD of his own comprehensive genius» as some
assert, or as others maintain, from the information
communicated to him by another mariner, who had
been thrown upon these shores by stress of wea-
ther, or other casualty, conceived the daring pro-
ject of seeking a new route to the East Indies, by
traversing the Western Ocean. He communicated
his ideas to his own countrymen the Genoese, and
to the kings of England and Portugal successive-
ly; but they were rejected by each as chimerical.
Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, however, gave a
favourable attention to his proposal, and deter-
mined to assist him with 3 barks and 1700 ducats.
This was the only provision for undertaking an
enterprise, the success of which stands unrivalled
in the annals *of history,» and that gave a new
world, and immense wealth* to the crown of
Castile.
On the 3d of August, 1492, Columbus sailed
from the harbour of Palos, commissioned as ad-
miral and viceroy of whatever countries he might
discover. After a navigation of rather more than
two months, he arrived on the 11th of October at
the island of Guanahani, to which he gave the
name of St. Salvador : he then passed on to Cuba
and Hay ti, which he called Hispaniola; and in
the month of March, 1493, returned to Spain with
the first intelligence of his glorious discovery. In
recompense for this important service, he was
-created on the 18th of May, 1493, admiral of the
Indies, received a patent of nobility, and was ho-
noured with armorial bearings, viz. a sea, argent,
on a field, azure, and 5 islands, or, beneath a man-
tle of Castile and Leon, crest a globe, with the
motto, "Por Castilla y por Leon, Nuevo Mundo
- 120
hullo' Colon" (for Castile and Leon Columbus
discovered a New World). Emboldened by suc-
cess, Columbus repeated his voyage, and his la-
bours were rewarded by fresh discoveries. In
his second, undertaken in 1493, he fell in with
the lesser Antilles and St. Juan de Puerto Rico :
he then proceeded to Hispaniola where he laid
the foundation of the first city in America, which,
in honour of the queen, he called Isabella. After
this he embarked again, and on the 14th March,
1494, arrived at a large island^ to which he gave
the name of St. Jaime, or Jamaica. Columbus
renewed b¡s attempts, and they were attended
with unabated good fortune : on his third voyage,
which he commenced August 11 th, 1498, he came
in sight of a large point of land tliat he immedi-
diately named IslaSanta, but he soon afterward
ascertained, that what he had taken to be an island
was a great continent : he discovered the coast of
Paria, the gulf of Ballena^ and several islands.
In 1502 he sailed from Cadiz, on the 9th of March;
on his fourth voyage, and shaped a course for the
continent which he had discovered in N98. After
experiencing many difficulties he arrived at the
island Guanaja, from which he steered to Point
Casinas on the coast of Honduras, where Bartho-
lomew Columbus landed with a part of the crews,
on the 14th of August, 1502, to perform mass:
on the 17th they landed again, and took posses*-
sion of the country, in the name of the king and
queen of Castile. The admiral continued his re-
searches, and on the 2d of November of the
same year, he discovered Portobello: on the fol-
lowing day he advanced about half a league up
the river ¿ailed Bethelem, in the province of Ve-
121
ragua : from this event his descendants obtained
the title of Dakes of Veragua.
The -successes of this enterprising chief were
too glorious and too interesting, not to excite the
emulation of. others. The result was, that many
were induced to pursue the route now opened for
them. The first Spaniard who embarked on this
arduous service, was Alonzo de Ojeda; who was
accompanied by Americus Vespucius, a Floren-
tine.* In the year l499, Ojeda discovered the
gulf of MaracaibOy Venezuela, and the coast of
Cumana.
In the year 1500, Vincent Pinzón fell in with
the Promontory of Brasil, since called Cape St.
Augustine, and the mouth of the river Marañon.
In 1506, Pinzón and Juan Diaz de Solis disco-
vered the coast of Yucatan.
In 1512, Juan Ponce de Leon searching for the
island Bimimi, one of the Bahamas, or Lucayas,
in which he had been assured there was a foun-
tain capable of restoring to old age the vigour of
youthj ^iccidentally made the. more substantial
discovery of an extensive region, to which he gave
the name of Florida, either from the season of the
year when he arrived at it, being Easter, called by
* Americus Vespucius, one of the manners in this expedition,
published a history, abounding in fables and inaccuracies, in
which he styled himself the discoverer of the American conti-
nent, and gave so high a colouring to his narrative, tiiat by the
incautious be was believed actually to have made the discovery ;
the affair being laid before the council of the Indies by the
friends of Columbus Don Alonzo de Ojeda, was juridically
examined on the subject; he did not hesitate to declare the
falsity of Vespucius' assertion : the decbion of the judges was
in favour of Columbus, but this did not prex^ent the pretender
from enjoying the honour of it, or the glory of giving his own
name to this fourth division of the world.
122
the Spaniards Pascua florida, or from observing
the meadows covered with flowers.
On September 25th, 1513, Vasco Nunez Bal-
bao, the governor of Danen, descried the Pacific
Ocean^ the existence of which was, until then,
unknown; and, on the 29th of the same month,
took possession of it for the king of Castile.*
In 1516, Juan Diaz de Solis entered the river
La Plata. In the following year, the coast of
Yucatan was again visited by Francisco Fernan-
dez de Cordova; and in 1518, Juan de Grijalva,
continuing the examination of the coast, found the
island of Cozumel, the river Tabasco (named by
him Rio de Grijalva), St. Juan de Ulna, and Pa-
nuco: to all this region he gave the name of New
Spain.
On the 10th of February, 1519, Ferdinand
Cortes sailed from the Havanna^ to effect the
CQuquest of New Spain; which was not com-
pleted until more than 2 years afterward.
In 1520, Ferdinand Magelbaens passed the
straits which bear his name, and discovered the
Ladrone Islands, which he called the Archipelago
of St. Lazarus. Leaving these^ he reached the
Philippines, where he was killed. Juan Sebastian
del Cano then took one of his ships, and returned
to Spain by doubling the Cape of Good Hope ;
thus being the first who circumnavigated the
globe. In commemoration of this enterprise, the
ship in which he performed the expedition (called
the Victory) was long preserved at Seville.
* The ceremony which Balbao used on the occasion was this ;
armed with a sword and shield, he waded into the sea until the
water reached his waist, and proclaimed the Pacific Ocean to be-
long to the kings of Spain.
123
On the 13th of August, 1521, Cortes took the
city of M exico^ the capital of the Mexican mo-
narchs, making the Emperor Guatimociu prison-
er; and terminated the empire^ then in the most
nourishing state, after it had stood 200 years.
In 1522, Gil Conzalez Davila discovered the
province of Nicaragua, which was afterward
settled by Pedro de Arias, Davila, and Francisco
Fernandez de Cordova^ officers who had accom-
panied Gonzalez in his advance from Darien.
Cortes, having been appointed, by the Emperor
Charles the 5th, governor and captain-general of
all the countries he might conquer, dispatched
Christopher de Olid into the province of Hondu-
ras. This adventurer landed in a bay, about 50
leagues eastward of the entrance of the gulf of
Dulce; this bay he called the Triumph of the
Cross, from having disembarked on the 3d of
May, 1523, being the day on which the church
celebrates the invention of the cross. He laid the
foundation of a town, to which he gave the same
appellation.
The fame of Cortes* exploits spread rapidly
through the country, and soon reached the court
of the Kachiquel kings, who, of their own free
will, sent an embassy to him, offering to acknow-
ledge themselves vassals of the king of Spain. The
chief received the ambassadors with all the kind-
ness and affability so peculiar to him ; treated
them with every mark of distinction, and gave
assurances that himself, and all those under his
command, would govern them with mildness in
peace, and defend them against all enemies.
Cortes sent Pedro de Alvarado, one of his offi-
cers who had been most active in.the conquest of
124
New Spain, to take possession of Guatemala, and
receive the submission of the native kings. He
quitted the city of Mexico on the 13th of Novem-
ber, 1523, accompanied by 300 Spaniards, and a
large body of auxiliary Mexicans, TIascaltecag,
and Cholutecas. After a short detention in sub-
duing the natives of Teguantepeque, who had
revolted, he advanced, completed the conquest of
Soconusco and Tonalá, and arrived in the terri-
tories of the Quichees on the 24th of February,
1524. He found there so many obstacles to be
surmounted, so many battles to be contested,
that he was unable to proceed until be obtained
a complete victory over the Indians^-on the 14th
of May. A small chapel was hastily erected;
and on the following day, which was the Pente-
cost, mass was celebrated; and thus commenced
the Catholic worship in this region.
OF THE FOUNDATION OF THE CITY OF
GUATEMALA.
Alvarado, as just mentioned, having achieved
the conquest of the populous provinces of Soco-
nusco and Tonalá, and fought many battles with
the Quichee Indians, who opposed his passage
with resolate obstinacy, until the 14th of May,
when they were defeated in an action that de-
cided the conquest. He then advanced to the
capital of the Kachiquel kingdom, which, in the
opinion of the historian Vasquez, (vol. i. lib. i.
chap. 1.) was the old village of Tecpanguate-
mala; where, according to the same author, the
Spaniards were received by the King Apotzotzil,
or Sinacam, with pvery demonstration of good
will. The army, having remained there a few
125
da^s, to recover from their fatigues, marched to-
wards the village of Atitan to attack the Zutu* ,
giles. Taking their route by the villages on the
coast, they overcame whatever force attempted to
dispute their passage, until their arrival at a place
called by the Mexicans Almolonga (in their Ian*
guage meaning a spring of water), on the 24th of
July. This situation, says Remesal, (lib. i. chap.
2.) pleased the Spaniards so much, by its fine
climate, the beauty of the meadows, delightfully
watered by running streams, and particularly
from lying between 2 lofty mountains, from one
of which descended runs of water in every direc-
tion, and from the summit of the other issued
volumes of smoke and fire ; altogether rendering
the place remarkable for its peculi£^r locality.
Here they determined to establish themselves,
until they could discover a spot more suitable to
their wishes ; and, aided by the Mexicans and
Tlascaltecas, they erected the requisite quarters.
On the 25th of July, continues Remesal, the fes-
tival of St. James, the patron of Spain, the troops
were mustered under arms and njarched to at-
tend divine service, with martial music and re-
peated discharges of fire-arms^ The splendour of
the armour of the soldiers, their waving plumes,
the horses superbly caparisoned in trappings,
glittering with jewels and plates of gold, formed
altogether a most imposing spectacle. In this
array they proceeded to the humble church
which had been constructed, where Juan Go-
dines, chaplain to the army, said mass. This
service finished, the whole body invoked the
protection of the apostle, gave his name to the
towD they had founded, and dedicated to him
1^26
the charch that was to be immediately bailt.
The foandation of the new town was solemnized
by the army with feasts and military rejoicings,
that continued for three days. On the same day»
Al varado, the lieutenant of the governor and cap-
tain-general, in the presence of the army, appoint-
ed Diego de Roxas, and Balthasar de Mendoza,
alcaldes of the town ; Pedro Portocarrero, Her-
man Carillo, Juan Perez Dardon, and Domingo
Zubiarreta, regidors, and Gonzalo de Alvarado,
chief alguazil. On the 27th of the same month,
the constituted authorities held their fii-st council,
when they appointed Diego Diaz the receiver-
general, and transacted other business relating to
the public service. At the second meeting of the
council, on the 29th, without any previous act or
formality, the title of City was given to the new
establishment, as appears from the following en*
try made by the secretary of the council, viz.
'' Friday, the 29th July, 1524, the alcaldes and
regidors of this city of St. Jago took their seats
in council.*' On the 12th of August, another
council was held ; when the office of sacristan
was bestowed on Juan de Reynosa, and the pub-
lic officers, with other persons, to the number of
97, were registered as citizens. With these forma-
lities, the foundation of the city of St. Jago de
los Caballeros, of Guatemala, was completed.
CHAP. VIL
Of the jRoyal Chancery qJ Guatemala^ and other
Public Bodies.
Alvarado, by himself, and by his lieutenants,
governed this kingdom from the year 1524, in
1527
which he subdued it, until 1541, the year of hid
death ; for the first four years by commission from
Cortes, to whom the general government of the
countries newly conquered had been confided ;
and afterward as governor and captain^eneral
of the kingdom by commission from the Emperor
Charles the Fifths dated December 18th, 1527.
As soon as the information of Alvarado*s death
reached the* city, the ayuntamiento, or corpora-
tion, proceeded to elect a person to administer
the government ad interim^ until a new governor
should be nominated by the king ; and on the 9th
of September, 1541, they conferred this rank on
Beatrice de la Cueba, widow of the deceased;
she, however, enjoyed the elevation only two
days ; as she unfortunately lost her life on the
11th, in the calamity that destroyed the old city.
On this occasion a council was held on the 17th
for a fresh election, when the chief authority was
vested in the bishop, Francisco Marroquin, and
the licentiate Francisco dela Cueba, who held
it until the 17th May, 1542, when the licen-
tiate Alonzo de Maldonado, oidor (or judge) of
Mexico, was sent by the viceroy as governor ad
interim ; in the same year, the king of Spain con-
firmed him in the rank of judge, and first presi-
dent of the royal audiencia of the confines of
Guatemala and Nicaragua, and appointed as his
colleagues, the licentiates Diego de Herrera,
Pedro Ramirez de Quinoties-, and Juan Rogel,
chief oidors of the audiencia.
This audiencia was created by a royal decree
of November 20th, 1542, expressed in the follow-
ing terms, viz. " We command that there shall
be a royal audiencia established within the con-
128
fines of Guatemala and Nicaragua ; to consist of
four learned judges, one of whom shall be the
president, &c." By the same authority, on the
13th of September, 1543, the said royal chan-
cery was ordered to hold its sittings in the town
of Valladolid de Comayagua. The president'
soon perceiving the inconvenience of this place,
from being so far distant from Guatemala, still
farther from Chiapa and Soconuscot awd occa-
sioning many difficulties to the inhabitants of
these provinces, who might be under the neces-'
sity of applying to the court, granted permission
for its removal to the city of Gracias a Dios, and
it was there opened for the first time on the 16th
of May, 1544* By decrees dated October 25,
1548, and June 1st, 1549, his majesty authorized
the transferring of this tribunal to any other city ;
this was carried into effect by establishing if in
Guatemala; which translation received the royal
approbation on the 7th of July, 1565. In 1550 an-
other change took place, by which it was moved
to the city of Panama; but on June 28th, 1568,
and January 5, 1569, the former order was re-
scinded, and the court was once more established
in Guatemala, where the president and oidors en-
tered upon their duties on the 5th of January,
1570 ; and the audiencia was^ opened on the 3d
of March following. Philip the Second, by a
law (6th tit. 15, lib. 1. of the Recopilación, or
collection of the statutes), constituted the au-
diencia of Guatemala a pretorial court, indepen-
dent of the viceroy of Mexico; and ordained that
it should be composed of a president, governor
and captain-general, 5 judges of the criminal law,
a fiscal, and a chief alguacil. In 1776 the king
- 1^9
increased the number of its minietere, and ar«
dained that there should be a regent, 5 oidors, a
fiscal for the qivil, and another for the criminal
law. On the 2l8t of April, 1788, the number was
reduced to a regent, 4 oidora^ and 1 fiscal civil ;
but in 1799, the fiscal criminal was again added.
At the beginning of this institution, the presU
dent and oidors used no distinguishing costume^
but administered justice in the dress of simple ci^-
tizens. In 1546^ the king issued an order that
tbey should carry wands similar to the alcaldes of
the royal household. In 1559, he commanded
them to assume the habit of doctors; and in 1581^
it was determined tbey should use robes, to dis^
tinguish them from other learned men ; and this
costume has prevailed- down to the present time.
OF THE CORPORATION (AYUNTAMIENTO) OF THiJ
CITY OF GUATEMALA.
In the preciBding pages an account has beea
given of the foundation of the city, aqd the ap->
pointment of public officers for its interiml regut
lation ; these continued the exercise of their re^
spective duties with very little variation of dignity,
until the reign of Philip the Second, who graated
to the city the additional appellative of Muy noble
y muy Leal. (most noble and most loyal), and the
corporation was styled Muy noble Ayuntamiento^»
Philip the Third, by an act, dated the I2th of
September 1600, granted to it the privilege of
haviiig macebearers on all occasions of public ce*
ramony; and by different acts, of July 9, 1564,
April 21, 1587, and April 3, 1596, this body
was constituted Fiel Executor (or exaa)iner c^
weights and measures), which duty is executed
K
130
by the members alternately. Besides these pri-
Tilegesyit enjoys the singular pre-eminence, which
perhaps no other city of the Spanish monarchy
has obtained, that its ordinary alcaldes are corre-
gidors of the valley of Guatemala, by virtue of
which the administration of justice in no less thanr
77 villages belongs to them ; this prerogative has
been confirmed at various times by different so-
vereigns» in decrees bearing date July 18, 1559,
November 6, 1604, November 6, 1606, July 7.
1607, May 23, 1673, and December 10, 1687.
Previous to the year 1574, the jurisdiction of the
city extended to the province of Sapotitlan, in
which it appointed deputies. Down to the pre-
sent time it has continued to receive marks of
royal favour from the successive monarchs, either
by granting fresh distinctions, by confirming those
it already possessed, or by securing all the prero-
gatives it had enjoyed by custom. The number
of individuals in the corporation has varied at
different periods; at first, it has been shewn,
there were no more than 7. In 1527, the office of
procurator syndic was added. About the middle
of the 17th century this body had its greatest num-
ber; for in addition to the alcaldes and syndic,
there were a royal standard-bearer, chief algua-
cil, provincial alcalde, trustee-general, treasurer
of stamped paper, and 12 other members not
holding offices. — At other times there were a di-
rector of the posts, and a receiver of fines. At
present the corporation is composed of 2 alcaldes,
a standard-bearer, chief alguacil^ provincial al-
calde^ 8 regidors, and a procurator syndic ; the
latter, and the alcaldes are elected annually^ but
the others hold their situations in perpetuity. In
131
the year 1734, 6 regidor» were elected annually
by order of the audiencia, as there were but few
members who held perpetual offices, and this
continued to be the practice for several years. In
1777, the regidors began to be elected biennially ;
but in 1792, the office was made permanent. Since
the year 1783, it has been the custom for the mem-
bers, when they attend in their official capacity, to
wear a uniform, which for full dress is of black velvet
lined with cloth of gold, and a waistcoat of the same.
OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ST. CARLOS DE
GUATEMALA.
Although the university was not founded until
the year 1678, yet the inhabitants. of the city had
not been negligent in promoting education. Fran-
cisco de Marroquin, the first bishop, when only
curate of Guatemala, favoured with all his abili-
ties the establish n)ent of a school for instructing
the children of Spaniards. When elevated to the
episcopal dignity, he represented to his majesty"
the necessity of having a professor for the Latin
language ; by an order of March 26th, 1546, the
opinion of the royal audiencia was taken on
the subject; and in consequence, on the 16th of
June, 1548^ a professorship of grammar was insti-
tuted by the king's order. In the year 1559^ the
Bishop Marroquin and the corporation petition^
ed his majesty to found.a university, as there were
not then in the city the means of giving instruction
in theology, or the liberal arts; and in 1560, the '
bishop, in conjunction with the audiencia, repre-
sented that it would also be very beneficial to
found a college of Jesuits ; but neither measure
was carried into effect- Marroquin being uqsuc^
k2
1S2
eessfol in obtaining this ofa^t daring btftlife, be*
queathed, at his death, funds fi» erecting a college,
in which 12 students, chosen from among the sons
of deserving citizens, should be instructed io
philosophy and theology, appointing the dean
of Guatemala, and the prior of the Dominican
convent, patrons of the same. The object of the
bequest was undertaken with great zeal; the
convent of St. Domingo granted a piece of ground
within its own precincts for the building, and in
a short time the requisite halls were erected.
The audiencia determined that those persons of
the Dominican order, whose duty it was to read
lectures in their convent, should perform the same
service in the college, without any stipend for a
certain number of years, until the funds of the es-
tablishment should be sufficiently increased to pay
the lectureships. In 1574, the provincial of the
Franciscans, Bernardino Peres, presented two
religieux of bis order as lecturers, without emo-
lument; but this was opposed by the Domini-
cans, to whom the audiencia had confided the
task. It appears, however, that in this college,
which was at first called St. Tbomas, no lectu^bs'
were read before the year 1620 ; and also from a
memorial presented to the king of Spain in 160]^*
that there existed at that period no other semina-
ry in the kingdom, than the Tridentine college of
Guatemala. In 1620, the dean of Guatemala,
Philip Ruiz del Corral; the provincial of the
Dominicans, Ambrosio Diaz del Castillo; the
Doctor Pereira, and Garcia Loaiza, commenced a
course of lectures, in St. Thomas. Philip the
Fourth erected the college into a university, with
the privilege of granting degrees; but lor a limits
133
ed time only. lu virtue of this faculty^ the Biáhop
Joan de Sapata, on the ISth Ji>ne, 1^25, conferred
the diploma of doctor on the dean, Philip Ruiz
de. Corral, Francisco Zevallos, and Alonso Gu-
rao, of the order of Dominicans ; and that of ba-
cheloi on Ambrosio, and Thomas Diaz del Cas-
tillo. About the period of commencing the lec^
tores in the college of St. Thomas, a conrse of
studies was begun in the college of the Jesuits ;
ai»d althQugh the royal order of February 2fid,
1622, had been received, by v^hich they virere
commanded to observe the ordinance of Pope
Gregory the Fifteenth, dated August 8th, 1621»
permitting all colleges of the conjpany of Jesus^
distant 200 miles from any of the general univer*
sities, to grant degrees which should be confirmed
by the archbishops and bishops, they refrained
from exercising this privilege, because these bo->
nours were conferred in the college of St. Thomas,
as just mentioned; but the course of studies
ceasing in this college shortly after 1625, d^rees
were then granted in that of the company.
In 1659, the funds of the college of St. Tho-
mas had accumulated so much^ that the patrons
thought it time to proceed with its formal esta^
blisbtnent. For although lectures had been deli^
vered in it since 1620, and d^rees had been con-
ferred, yet there had been neither rector, students,
nor any proper collegiate form of discipline. They,
therefore, nominated the Bachelor Antonio Serre^
zaela Calderón to be the first rector, and receiv*
ed eight children of noble families, as students^
whom they distinguished by purple gowns and
scarlet scarfs; they also gave the direction of the
professorships to the fathers of the Dominican
134
convent. The college, however, did not retnain
long in this state; for in 1646, Pedro Crespa
Suarrez^ director of the post-office in the city,
bequeathed at his death 20,000 dollars, for the
endowment of professorships of law, medicine,
and philosophy, in the university, when it should
be established : with this increase of means, the
foundation was advanced with more zeal and
energy. The ayuntamiento of the city preferred
frequent applications, and earnestly solicited his
majesty to grant them this favour : for the same
purpose they made representations also to Don
Payo de Rivera, and the royal audiencia of
Mexico. The supreme council of the Indies,
taking into consideration the request of so respec-
table a body, issued an order on the 5th July,
1673, commanding a junta to be formed, in the
city of Guatemala, consisting of the president,
the senior judge, the fiscal of the royal audiencia,
the bishop, and the dean of the cathedral, to con-
fer, and deliberate maturely, after examining and
duly considering the advantages or disadvantages
that such a foundation would produce.?*
. In virtue of this determination, the committee
was formed in the manner prescribed, and it ap-
pearing to them that no disadvantage, but on the
contrary great utility would accrue from the erec-
tion of the university, they represented to his ma-
jesty, that it would be of the greatest benefit to
the whole kingdom. This information being re-
ceived by the supreme council, a decree >*as is-
sued on the 5th January, 1676, for creating^ the
college of St. Thomas Aquinus of Guatemala^
a university. This decree was. received with
: * This appears frorá the original acts of the foundation.
135.
the utmost joy and satisfaction : as it conceded
to the city what had been soardently desired and
petitioned for, for upwards of a century. The
committee assembled several times, in the same
manner as before (except that the bishop absent-;
ed himself on account of some disagreement whicti
had occurred between him and the other mem-
bers), to deliberate upon the most effective method
of completing the foundation. The first object
was to adapt the college to this object : they built
balls^ a general school, chapel, with other neces-
sary. oflSces, and placed the royal arms over the
entrance; the expense of these works was defray-
ed by the doctors, Jacinto Roldan déla Cueba^
and Juan Bautista de Urquioia Elorriaga/ judges
of the audiencia, and súperintendants of the uni^
versity. Immediately after the buildings were
completed, probationary lectures were delivered,
both here and in the university of Mexico; which
being terminated, Don Fernando de Escobeda
the president, the 2 oidors, and the fiscal, pro-^
ceeded to elect the professors, on the Qth Decem*
ber, 1678; when Rafael del. Castillo, a Domi-
nican^ was chosen for theology, Diego Rivas, a
Mercedarian, for moral theology ; Augustin Ca-
no, a Dominican, for philosophy; for canon law,
the bachelor Juan Melendez Carreño; for civil
Jaw, the bachelor Jacinto Jayme Moreno; for
the institutes, the bachelor Antonio Davila Quiñ-
ones; for medicine*, the bachelor José Salmerón ;
and for the Kachiquel language, José Senoyo, a
Dominican.
Soon after these elections were made, a decree
of the 19th of September, 1678, was received, com-
municating his majesty's approbation of the mea^
136
sores that bad been parsued by the cofninittee ;
but with respect to the chairs of the canon, and
civil law, and medicine, it was ordered that Üie \
archbishop, viceroy of Mexico, Payo de Rivera,
should, by public edict in the city of Mexia>^
and with the assistance of two members of the
audiencia, elect competent professors to fill them ;
and that in case the audiencia of Guatemala should
have previously chosen them, such choice wasta
be considered as invalid. The royal ordinance
was complied with in Mexico, but no candidates!
were found; the supreme council, therefore, de<«
t^rmined that a similar edict should be promnU
gated in the Spanish capital. In consequence^
many learned men from the university of Sala^
manca appeared, and delivered probationary lec^
tures in the hall of the supreme council; after
which the choice was decided in favour of Dr. Bar-
tholomew de Amez^quita for the canon law, and
Dr. Pedro de Ozaeta for the civil law, with the
privilege, that after they had filled these stations
five years, they should obtain the situation of
oidors of the audiencia of Guatemala. In medi*
cine, the choice fell upon Dr. Miguel Fernandez.
The other professorships that had been con^
ferred in Guatemala were approved of, with the
exception of theology ; because one of the candi-^
dates, Jose de Baños y Sotomayor, a dodtor of
the university of Osuna, archdeacon of the ca-
thedral, and a king's chaplain (titles which his
distinguished talent rendered still more honour-
able), being unsuccessful, the council of the In-
dies conceived that he had been slighted; atid,
therefore, to repair the injury sustained, appointed
him to the professor's chair, with the additional
137
ríink of chief rector oí the university of St.CorlM
de Guatemala.
On the 6th of June» 1680^ hid majesty issued an
order to compose a code of laws for the govern*
mentof the new uuiversity, which task was per-*
formed by Francisco de Sarasa y Arce, oidor of
the audiencia, anjd superintendent of the univer-*
sity. These were transmitted to the council in
1681, which, by an act of the 26th of February,
1686, approved of them, and of all that had been
done, as well with regard to the building, as to
the collection and management of the revenues ;
and accordingly con6rmed the constitutions,
with some few modiñcations. The Rector de
Baños continued in his office until his death, in
1606 ; when there not being a competent number
of doctors to elect a rector, the vice patron,
instituted Dr. Juan de Cardenas, master of the
xihoir in the cathedral, to that situation. Hid
successor. Dr. Juan de Merlo, was appointed in
the same manner, and continued in the office frond
September 8 to November 10, 1705, when there
being a sufficient number of doctors, they began
to elect a rector annually, as enacted by the con-
stitutions.
Pope Innocent the Eleventh, by a bull, " e su-
prema," dated June 18, 1687, confirmed the esta-
blishment of the university, endued it with the
faculty of conferring degrees in all sciences, and
granted to it all the privities enjoyed by the uni-
versities of Mexico and Lima; consequently^ all
persons who graduate in it enjoy, in the Spanish
dominions of America, the liberties and franchises
that are peculiar to the graduates of Salamanca,
in the kingdom of Spain. There are 8 endowed
138
professorships; two filled by the order of Fran-
ciscans, without stipends, viz. theology, since the
year 1688, and philosophy from 1714; and the
university, in recompense for this service, grants
the degree of doctor, without the usual fees, to 4
individuals of that order. Another chair of phi«
losophy has been for some time filled by one of
the Dominican order without salary. Professor-
ships of divinity, anatomy, and rhetoric, were still
wanting, and the heads of the establishment be-
gan to devise the means of introducing them.
Until they could be regularly instituted, it was
resolved that a doctor from among the clergy of
the city should take charge of the first; a phy-
sician of the second, and a Dominican of the
third.* But the individuals who lectured on ana-
tomy and rhetoric having quitted the capital, di«
Tinity was continued under the charge of Dr. Jose
Bernardo Dighero. From this seminary have is-
sued 5 bishops, a physician, and a surgeon to the
king, and a great number of men who have been
distinguished in their public employments for
their virtue and literary talents. There are now
* From the foundatioD of the nniversity, until the year 1778»
the lectures were delivered according to the old scholastic
method ; in the latter year, the first course of experimental
philosophy was begun, and a better taste in the sciences was
gradually introduced ; the professors became attached to mo-
dern theories, and some points of the mathematics were touch-
ed upon» In the month of October, 1792, examinations in
geometry took place for the first time, and were repeated in
May, 1795. In 1789, 1790, and 1794, there were examinations
in anatomy, for which purpose models were made and adapted
to the various operations, that were to be demonstrated, which
are still preserved for the use of those who dedicate them-
selves to this branch of science. In March,. 1798, four young
men were examined in surgery, being the first who have gra-
duated in tliat faculty ; and in July, 1799, there were examina-
tions in philosophy, according to the Socratic mode.
139
intkeumversity 50 doctors, 1 master of ^rts, jaod
1 licentiate.
There are in the city various tribunals and pub-
lic bodies; the history of some of them is not cor-
rectly known, and in that of others, there is but
little worthy of particular notice ; those only,
therefore, that possess any remarkable circum-
stances, either in the institution or progress, need
" be specified. Of these, the royal mint holds the
first rank. It was built in 1731 ; on the 17tb^of
February, 1733, the dies and other implements for
the coinage of gold money arrived from Mexico,
and were received with great ceremony. The
chief officers of the city, accompanied by the no-
bility, &c. proceeded as far as the village of Joco-
tenango to meet them ; the cases containing .the
dies were placed in the president's coach, which
was escorted by the cavalry guard, preceded by
the magistrates of the neighbouring villages, and
followed by the ayuntamiento and the nobility in
cafrriages. On arriving at the great square, the
procession was saluted with the ringing of bells,
and a discharge of artillery ; the president and
the officers of government then advanced to re-
ceive the cases, and deposit them in the proper
offices. Asimilar ceremony was performed on
the 28th of the same month, to introduce other
dies that arrived on that day, with Don José de
Leon, director of the mint, and other officers.
On the Ist of March, the exportation of silver
was prohibited by proclamation ; on the 4th, offi-
cers were appointed to the vacant situations of the
establishment; and on the 19th, the first money
was. coined, viz. 5 doubloons, having the king's
bust, with the legend, " Philipus V. Dei Gratia
140
HispaniartHn et Indiaram Rex»** on one sick ; aad
the arms of the kings of Spain, with the tnotto,
*^ Initium SapientiaB est Timot* Domini," on the
reverse. At this first official act, the president^
the bishop, the ayuntamiento, the regular prelates,
and many persons of distinction assisted ; the ce-
remony concluded, the president and all the cor*
tegé repaired to the cathedral, where the bishop^
accon^panied by his clergy, was in attendance,
and '^ Te Deum" was sung with great solemnity ;
after which, on a given signal, a general salute of
bells^ artillery, and musketry, took place. At
night the city was illuminated, and on the follow*
iug day a proclamation was issued, to give cur^
rency to the new money. In the space of six
years all the necessary buildings were completed
in the best style of arrangement, under the direc^
tion of Don José de Leon. The whole expense
of the edifice amounted to 19,000 dollars, which
was defrayed out of the produce of the coinage,
that, in the same period, gave a surplus to the
king of 20,000 dollars. The solidity of the build-
ing was put to the test by the earthquake o'f 1773;
and when others of more recent construction were
most seriously injured, this sustained but very
little damage. When the new city was built in
the valley del Virgen, a new mint was erected
adjoining the governor's palace. The establish-
ment is governed by the ordinances, dated August
1, 1760, which were founded upon those of Ca»
saya, in 1730. The officers of the mint are a
superintendent, who is always a member of the
royal audiencia, an accountant, and a treasurer
(who are the king's officers), a weigher, 2 assayers,
an engraver, and others of inferipr note. The
141
principal pi^rt of the money coined in the niint
at the commencement of its operations» was that
called the Cat or Macaca^ although a portion of
the round coin has always been worked. The
gold was stamped with the devices before men^
tioned. The silver presented, on one side the
royal arms, with the name and style as a legend ;
on the reverse, two globes, under a crown, with
the pillars of Hercules, and the motto, " Utraque
unum." In 1771, a new die was introduced» and
the king's bust took place of the globes and pil-
lars, when the old money was called in, that the
eoinage from the mints both of Spain and Ame-
rica might be uniform.
The general administration of taxes, presents
itself next in succession. This revenue was for a
long time farmed by the ayuntamiento; but in
1763, it was ordered to be collected on account
ef his majesty, according to instructions issued on
the 20th of February, 1762, and oflScers were ap-
pointed for that purpose. These are an adniinis*
trator-generai^ an accountant, 2 supervisors, an
alcalde, and a great number of inferior officers,
who are employed in the receipt of the several
duties. At the same period, four district admi-
nistrations were established in the cities of St.
Salvador, Leon, Ciudad Real, and Comayagua,
with a competent number of officers, who pass
their accounts with the administrator-general.
The directory of the tobacco revenue was
formed in 1767, at which time the royal monopoly
of this branch of commerce was established ; it
consists of a director-general, an accountant,
treasurer, and other officers. The administrations
of this impost in the cities of Granada, St. Salva-
142
dor, and Ciudad Real, are siibordmate to the
directory in the metropolis.
The accountantgeneralsbip was established in
the year 1771, although from the time of the con-
quest there had been an accountant of the royal
revenues, he had neither subordinate officers, or
jurisdiction ; and his duties were reduced merely
to putting a few notes and observations to the
accounts that came before him : a copy of these
observations was remitted to the royal officer or
accountant, who audited the same, and they were
finally adjusted by 2 members of the audiencia.
In 1769, a repreisentation of the negligent adminis-
tration, and confused arrangement of the public
accounts of the kingdom, was made to the king,
and it was determined to create the accountant-
generalship, according to a code of instructions
drawn up by the accountant-general of the Indies.
The first person appointed to this new office wa»
Don Salvador Domínguez de Salgado. On his
arrival he opened the tribunal of accounts in
February, 1771, and began to arrange his system
in confortííiity to the prescribed regulations. The
chamber was composed of the chief, 5 other offi-
cers, and a secretary; but in 1800, a second ac-
countant-general was added to it, with the same
authority and distinctions as the first.;
The tribunal of the consulate was established
in the city of Guateftiala on the 30th of April, 1794,
in consequence of the royal commands issued on
the 11th of December, 1793 ; which ordered that
it should be governed by the ordinances of
Bilbao, in all cases that were not expressly pro-
vided for by the said decree. The Marquis Juan
Firmin de Ayzinena was appointed prior ; Don
143
ManaelJose Juarros first consul; und Bon Jose
Antonio Castañedo the second ; the other officers
were selected from the inhabitants of the city.
The royal economical society had its com*
mencement in 1795, when the oidor Don Jacobo
de Villa Urrutia, Doctor Antonio Garcia, the
Reverend Jose Antonio Goicoechea, and several
others of the principal inhabitants, obtained the
president's permission to hold meetings, in which
they discussed, with great zeal, the moist effectual
means to advance the progress of the arts, to en-
courage agriculture, and to promote the public
advantage and happiness of the whole kingdom.
The members immediately directed their atten-
tion to the introduction of spinning-wheels, and
to instruct women in the use of them ; in the
sitting held on the 4th of November of the same
year, they distributed rewards to those who pro-
duced the bjBst specimens of thread. . The king
signified his approbation of the society's proceed-
ings on the 21st of October, 1795. The members,
animated by this mark of royal favour towards
the infant establishment, continued their exer*
tions with the greatest energy ; they endeavoured
to encourage the cultivation of cocoa and cotton,
to a greater extent than had hitherto been prac-
tised, by oflering premiums to such as should
successfully plant the greatest number of these
trees. They excited emulation among the wea-
vers by assigning rewards to those who presented
the finest gauzes and muslins. To facilitate the
progress of the mechanical arts, they opened
on the 6th of March, 1797, a school of drawing,
in which 32 young men were instructed gratis,
from 7 until 9 o'clock of the evening, and in each
144
month prizes vrere given to the authors of the two
best pieces. For the same purpose a school of
mathematics was established» in which lectores
commenced on the 8th of January, 1796 ; and on
January 27, 1800, a model academy was opened;
To give a more powerful stimulus to ev^fttttíoai
a public sitting was held every half y^r^yrhem
the most distinguished personages of the oapUftl
attended ; at these meetings an extract from the
journals of the society's operations was read^príses
were awarded to the successful candidate^ mod
the sitting terminated with a discourse delirered
by one of the associates, eulogising the institution,
and exhorting to a strenuous continuation of their
endeavours to promote the general good. The
patriotic zeal of this body obtained for it a fresh
mark of royal favour, by his majesty's communis
eating to it on the 15th July, 1799, his entire
satisfaction at the operations which had so power*
fully contributed to the public advantage, and ho
desired that the royal audiencia should propose
to him such measures as they might think expe^
dient to ensure its continuance. With these flat-»
tering prospects of success, on the 14th of Jul y^
1800, contrary to all expectation, and to the greaf
astonishment of every person^ a royal order was
received, by which its farther meetings and ul^
terior progress were prohibited, without vouch-
safing any reasons for a determinatioq so extraer-»
dinary and apparently injurious.
U6
CHAP. VIH.
o/ same of the most remarkable Calamities that
have happened to the Ciltf of Guatemala.
From the titne.tbe^ first transgressors were ex-
peHed from Paradise, miseries, misfortunes, aod
calamities, have formed a very prominent part in
every history • Whether the case of a single per-
sonage, of any body politic, of a city, or of a king-
dom, be considered, the number of disasters and
adverse events will usually be found to have sur«
passed the instances of prosperity. Guatemala is
very far from being an exception to this rule : with-
in two years after its foundation, it was ravaged^
end its inhabitants driven from their homes to
wander as fugitives, by the rebellion of the Kacbi-
quel Indians. On Ferdinand Cortes* arrival at
liie port of Truxillo in the year 1526, it was the
duty of Pedro de Alvarado to go thither to attend
him ; and he left his brother Gonzalo, with the
authority of lieutenapt, during his absence. Imr
pelled by avarice, th^ latter determined to seize
this favourable opportunity of enriching himself
in a yerv short time : with this view he demanded
an exorbitant tribute frpm the populous village
of Patinamit; ordering that 800 of the Indians
slioqld each bring him, ev^ry day, a reed of the
size of his little finger filled with fine gold, under
the penalty of being taken as slaves, in case of
failure. The unhappy victims of his rapacity
exerted themselves to the utmost to pay this
iniquitous exaction; but all their endeavours
being inefiectnal, the governor went to the village,
inflicted severe punishments, and threatened them
146
with death, should bis demand be n^leeted. Tbe
natives, driven to desperation by these vexations,
invoked all the towns of the Kachiquel nation «o
their aid» and soon collected a force of 30,000
combatants; a part of this host was detached to
defend the mountains in the road from Petapa,
by, which they feared Pedro de Alvarado miglrt
return, while the main body suddenly fell upon
the town of Guatemala, and taking the inhabitatits
by surprise, killed many, wounded matiy more,
and put the rest to flight. After this defeat, the
city was abandoned by the Spaniards, uti til the
return of Alvarado, who, without: loss of tirac^,
exerted himself to regain what they had been de-
prived of^ and to reduce the Kachiqueles oni^
more to subjection ; this was not done without
grefat trouble, and several severe contests: he at
last vanquished them^ after a very obstinate battle;
and they then submitted. This victory wafi'ob-
tained on the 22d of November, St. Cecilia's day,
for whiéh reason the saint was declared patroness
of the city, and the event has been commemo^
tated ever since, by a grand procession of all the
public authorities, with the royal standard carried
in triumph through the streets. This yéaf ^as
also remarkable for several earthquakes, which
Bernal 0iaz del Castillo describes as being so
violent, that men were unable to keep on their
feet. ' • • . - - : .. ^ .
In 1532, the vicinity of the city was ravagedi
and the inhabitants thrown into ¿oilsternation by
a lion of uncommon ttiagnitude and ferocity, that
descended from the forests on the mountain called
the Volcan de Agua, and committed great devas^-
tatiori among the herds of cattle. A reward of
U7
35 gold dollarsi or 100 bushels of wheat, was
offered by the town council to any person that
could kill it; but the animal escaped, even
from a general hunting party of the whole city^
with Alvarado at the head of it; After five or
six months continual depredations he was killed
on the 30th of July, by a herdsman who received
the promised reward. The next great disaster
was á fire that happened in February 1536, and
caused great injury ; as the houses were at that
time nearly all thatched with straw, a large^por-
tion of them was destroyed before it could be ex*
tinguished. The accident originated in a black-
smith's shop, and to prevent similar misfortunes
in future, the council prohibited the employment
of forges within the city.
The most dreadful calamity that had, as yet
.afflicted this unfortunate place occurred on ttie
morning of September 11th, 1541. It had rained
incessantly, and with great violence, on the three
preceding days,, particularly on the night of tlie
lOtb, when the water descended more like the
torrent of a cataract than rain; the fury of the
wind, the incessant appalling lightning, and drfE^ad-
ful thunder, were indescribable ; the general ter-
ror was increased by eruptions from the vol-
cano to such a d^ree^ that in this combination
of horrors the inhabitants iniagined the final des-
truction of the world was at hand. At 2 o'clock
on the morning of the 11th, the vibrations of the
earth were so violent, that the people were unable
to stand ; the shocks were accompanied by a
terrible subterraneaa noise which spread universal
dismay : ^liortly afterward, an immense torrent
of wat^ rushed down from the summit of the
L 2
148
mountain, forcing away with it enormons frag-
ments of rocks and large trees; which descending
npon theill-fafed town, overwhelmed and destroy-
ed almost all the houses, and buried a great num-
ber of the inhabitants under the ruins; among
the many, Doña Beatrice de la Cueba, the widow
of Pedro de Alvarado, lost her life. When day
dawned on the llth, those who had escaped un-
hurt from this scourge, rendered all the assistance
in their power to their less fortunate neighbours
who were maimed or wounded ; they collected
the bodies of the dead, and in the evening buried
them with as much solemnity as circumstances
admitted of. To perpetuate the remembrance
of this day of calamity and horror, it was de-
termined in council on the dth of September,
1542, to observe this 1 1th day of September every
year as a solemn fast, with penitentiary proces-
sions from Guatemala to Giudad Vieja, in which
all the civil and religious authorities were to take
part: this ceremony continued tobe observed for
more than 20 years.
The inhabitants, being dreadfully intimidated
by the injuries the city had sustained from the vol-
canoes, came to the resolution of removing from
them ; and they fixed upon a spot about a league
north-east of Giudad Vieja. Although they changed
the situation of their town, they could not evade
the calamities that awaited them. In 1658^ an
epidendiii^ disorder, attended with a violent bleed-
ing at the nose, swept away great numbers of
people; nor could the faculty devisé any me-
thod to arrest the progress of the distemper.
Many severe shocks of earthijuake were felt at
different periods ; the one io 1505 seriously d^t-
149
maged many of the principal buildings ; tbose, of
1575, 76, and 77, were not less ruinous. On the
27th of December, 1581, the population was again
alarmed by the volcano, which began to emit
fire; aúd so great was the quantity of ashes
thrown outand spread in the air, that the sun was
entirely obscured, and artificial light was neces-
sary in the city at mid-day. Processions were
formed to implore the Divine intercession ; peo-
ple confessed themselves aloud in the streets, be-
ing persuaded they were on the point of suffering
some awful visitation of Providence. A norther-
ly wind, however, at last relieved them from their
fears, by dispersing the ashes towards the Pacific
Ocean, and again allowing them to view thesplen*
dour of the sun. On the 14th of January, 1582,.
the mountain vomited fire with great force for 24
hours successively.
The years 1585 and 6, were dreadful in the ex-
treme. On January 16, of the former, earthquake»
were felt, and they continued through that and
the following year so frequently, that notan in-
terval of eight days elapsed, during the whole
period, without a shock more or less violent.
Fire issued incessantly,, for months together^ front
the nioimtain, and greatly increased the general
consternation. The greatest damage of Ibis series
took place on the 23d December, 1586, when the
major part of the city again became a heap of
ruins, burying under them many of the unforti^
nate inhabitants; the earth shook with such vio^
lence, that the tops of the high ridges were torn
off, and deep chasms formed in various parts of
the level ground.
In 1601, a pestilential distemper carried off
150
great numbers. It raged with so niuch maligoity^
that three days generally terminated the exist-
ence of such as were affected by it. In 1007| fresh
shocks of earthquakes were felt, causing great
damage to several of the buildings, and killing
many people. These terrible visitations did not
return a^in until the year 1640. In 1620, a fiery
meteor appeared, and filled the inhabitants with
terror and dismay, from their ignorance of the
nature of such phenomena : similar appearances
at the present day, as philosophy is better un-.
derstood, would only excite admiration. Me-
teors of the same description appeared on the 14th
April, 1649; the 23d March, 1680; the 20th Ja-
nuary, 1681 ; in January, 1688; and on tbe^l8th
of September, 1691.
In the month of January, 1623, the Toloano
was observed to be again in action ; it threw out
much flame and thick smoke, accompanied by
violent and loud reports, to the great terror of
the inhabitants, but fortunately without injury.
On the 18th of February, 1651, about 1 o'clock,
afternoon, a most / extraordinary subterranean
noise was heard, and immediately followed by
three violent shocks, at very short intervals from
each other^ which threw down many buildings,
and damaged pthers; the tiles from the roofs of
the houses were dispersed in all directions, like
light straws by a^ gust of wind ; the bells of the
churches were rung by the vibrations ; masses of
rock were detached from the piountains; and
even the wild beasts were so terrified, that, losing
their natural instinct, they quitted their retreats,
and sought shelter from the habitations of men.
Among the^se, a lion of great size an^ fierceness
151 r
entered th« city, on the southern niM, and ad-
vanced into the middle of it; he tore down á
paper fixed against one of the consistorial houses,
apd retreated by the streets oh. the noi^th side.
These shocks were repeated frequently» until the
13th of April. ,
Very few years passed in which this devoted
pls^e did not experience the horrors of these ex-
terminating phenomena; for^ enumerating only
£uch .as. caused serious damage since 1651, the
worst were those in March, 1679 ; 22d July,
1681; May, 1683; August, 1684; Septeinber
and October, 1687; and the 12th of February^
1689^ which, a writer of that period asserts, was
even more disastrous than the^one in 1651.
V The y^r 1686 brought with it another dreadful
epidemic» which, Jn three months, swept away a
tenth part of the inhabitants. Some of them died
«udd^nly; others expired under the most acute
pains of the head^ breast, and bowels. .No re-
medy wa$ discovered that could check its de-
structive progress, although many of the deceased
were opeped, to endeavour, by that means, to
conie at the .cause.of the disorder. So great was
the number of the infected, that there was not
a sufficient number of priests to administer to
them the religious rites. The Jbells were no longer -
tolled for the dead individually, and the corpses
were buried, en masse^ in a common grave. From
the capital, the pestilence spreásid tor the neigh*
bouring villages, and thence to the inore remote
ones; causing dreadful havoc, particularly among
the most robust of the inhs^bitants.'*
* The author makes nb mention of the manner in whieh this
epidemy terminated ; but religious ingenuity was not lai^y in
15S
PürsuiDg this narrative of iiiiafortaDes, the next
in succession happened on the 1st of Febraary,
1705; \fhen the mountain again disgorged ashes
and thick smoke in snch abundance, that the sna
Tiras entirely obscured ; and the Guatemalecans,
like the ancient Egyptians, were enveloped in im--
penetrable darkness at noon-day, which continued
for several hours. In 1710, a violent eruption of
smoke and ignited stones took place ; but no se-
rious injury was sustained. The year 1717 was me-
morable; on the night of August 27th, the moun*-
tain began to emit flames, attended by a continued
subterranean rumbling noise. On the night of the
fiSth, the eruption increased to great violence, and
very much alarmed the inhabitants. The images of
saints Avere carried in procession, public prayers
were put up, day after day ; but the terrifying
eruption still continued, and was followed by fre-
quent shocks, at intervals, for more than four
months. At last, on the night of September 29tb,
the fate of Guatemala appeared to be decided,
and inevitable destruction seemed to be at hand.
Great was the ruin among the public edifices;
many of the houses were thrown down, and nearly
producing a miracle to remove so dreadful a scourge, — the foU
lowibg is the tradition. The inhabitants being grievously
alarmed at the frightful havoe among them, resol? ed upon the
expedient of addressing pubKc prayers to the Virgin for her
interference ; they carried the image that is worshipped in the
village of Almolongo, thence to the church of Calvary, In the
city, in solemn procession : the rogation continued three days ;
on the last day, about two iq the afternoon, the face of the sacred
eiiigy was perceived to be in a profuse perspiration for a long
time : this prodigy was immediately certified officially by a cou-
ple of notaries who were present. In the evening the image was
restored to the village with becoming solemnity, and from that
day the pestilence «eased, no more persons were infected, and
those who were sick recovered immediately.
153
all that remained were dreadfully injured; but
tbe greatest devastation wa$ seen in the chiirches.
The inhabitants, from what they actually saw,
and from what their terrors suggested to them,
expected the total subversion of the place ; and
nearly all sought refuge in the villages adjacent-
After this disaster, they solicited permission of
the government to remove to any other spot that
might be judged less exposed to the effects of the
volcano ; but, by the time the council of the
Indies transmitted a licence for the removal, they
bad recovered from the panic, returned to their
dilapidated dwellings, had repaired a great part
of the city, and no longer thought of making the
transfer,
^ In 1732, during the month of May, the volcano
once more seemed to threaten fresh disasters, but
nothing more than an eruption of flame, that con-
tinned many days, then took place. In 1733, the
city suffered very grievously from the small-pox,
which, in one month, swept away 1500 persons.
This misfortune was followed, in June, 1736, by
a violent tempest, that threw down several houses,
and many persons were buried under the ruins*
On the 27th August, 1737, the mountain was
again in commotion, and discharged flames and
smoke for some days' successively; numerous
small craters, that emitted both fire and smoke,
opened on the sides of it; and, on the 24th of
September, smart shocks of earthquake took
place, but fortunately without causing injury.
On Sept. 31, 1749, another violent tenipest be-
gan, and continued for three days; it was at-
tended with an incessant heavy rain, the torrents
of water that descended from the surroundinjg;
354
mountains caused much damage in the villages
on the plain below. On the 4th of March, 1751,
two very severe shocks- we^re felt; the first about
& o'clock in the morning, and the oth^r at 2 in
the afternoon : much injury was done by them,
chiefly to the churches.
On the 8th of Oct. 1762, a heavy rain b^^n,
and lasted until the noorning of^he 9th ; by which
%he rivers were so increased, that great part of
the CQuntry was inundated : on this occasion the
large village of Petapa was destroyed, and the
division of the city called the Barrio de los Re-
medios was laid under water. , »
The year 1773 was the most melancholy epoch
in the annals of this metropolis ; it was then de^
stroyed, and, as the capital, rose no more from its
ruins. Since the year 1751, there had been no
considerable misfortune sustained ; for althougli,
in 1757, there had been the shock, distipguished
by the natives as the earthquake of St. Francis;
and, in 1765, that of the Holy Trinity, which
spread devastation over the province of Chiqui*
mula; and afterward, that denominated St. Ra-
phael's, which grievously devastated the province
of Suchiltepeques ; yet neither of these extended
to the capital wilb sufficient violence to cause any
extraordinary damage. In the month of May,
some few slight shocks were perceived ; and, on
the nth of June, a very violent one took place^
Its duration was considerable ; many houses, and
several churches, were much injured ; during the
whole of the night the shocks were repeated at
short intervals, and, for some days afterward,
with less frequency. About 4 o'clock, on the after^
noon of July 29, a tremendous vibration was feU,
155
aad shortly after began tbe dreadful convulsion^
that decided the fate of the unfortunate city. It
is difficult, even for those who were witnessed of
this terrible catMtrophe, to describe its duration,
Or the variety of its undulation, so entirely did ter-
ror, and the apprehension of immediate annihila-
4ioo, absorb all powers of reflection. For several
days these shocks continued, and sometimes in
such quick succession, that many took place in
the short space of lt5 minutes. On the 7th Sept.
there was another, which threw down most of
the bi|ildings that were damaged on the 29th of
July ; and, on the Idth Dec., one still more vio-
lent termin^ited the work of destruction. To this
memorable calamity succeeded a schism atpong
the inhabitants, that caused m&ny disagreeable
dissensions; two parties were formed, the one,
terrified by the recent chastisement of Providence,
and, bearing in mind tbe miseries that had been
so often endured from similar visitations, was de-
sirous of establishing the citf anew, in a situation
farther away from the mountain, and less exposed
to such troubles. The other, arguing from con-
stant experience, that there was scarcely a dis-^
trict throughout the kingdom which was not, ^t
times, subject to tbe same inconvenience, con-r
tended that it would be better to rebuild the city
on its present site, than to abandon the delightful
climate, the fertile soil, excellent water^ and the
thousand other advantages they enjoyed in it}
and that the yery ruins of their former dwellings
would furnish part of the materials for recon-
structing them, The people had not well ret
covered from the consternation inflicted by th€|
events of the fatal 29tli of July, when a meeting
156
was convoked, for the purpose oTcollectiog thcf
sense of the inhabitants on the subject of the re-
moval. This assembly took place on the 4lh of
Angust, the governor presided, and it was at*
tended by the archbishop, and all the persons of
consequence who remained on the spot. In this
meeting it was determined all the public autho-
rities should remove, provisionally, to the little
village of La Hermita, until the valleys of Ja-
lapas and Las Yacas could be surveyed, and
until the king's pleasure could be ascertained on
the subject. A member of the audiencia, 2 pre-
bends of the cathedral, a regidor, and one of the
principal, inhabitants, were deputed to examine
the two valleys. On the^6th of September, the
governor and all the tribunals withdrew to La
Hermita ; the surveys of the just mentioned places
being completed, the inhabitants were again con^
vokedj to decide upon the transfer. This con-
gress was held in the temporary capital, and
lasted from the 12th until the 16th of Jan. 1774:
the report of the commissioners was read, and,
by a plurality of votes, it was resolved to make a
formal translation of the city of Guatemala to the
valley of Las Vacas. The king gave his assent
to this resolution on the 21st July, 1775; and^ by
a decree of the 21st of Sept. following, approved
most of the plans that were proposed for carrying
the determination into effect; granting very libe-
rally the whole revenue arising from the customs,
for the spaee of 10 years, towards the charges of
building, &c. ' In virtue of this decree, the ayun-
tamiento was in due^ form established in the new
situation on the 1st Jan. 1776; and, on the 29th
of July, 1777, a proclamation was issued in Old
157
Oaatotiala^ commanding the population to re-
move to the new city within one year, and totally
abandon the remanís of the old one.
. The fatal results of the last calathity still af-
flicted the wretched population ; a petechial fever
soon shewed itself, and raged until the month of
May, 1774, before it could be subdued, making
a horrible increase to the already lengthened list
of mortality. The major part of the inhabitants
settled in the new city, but, by a change of soil,
they could not evade the penalty of misfortune,
suffering, and tribulation, inflicted upon the hu-
man race: these followed them to their new do-
micile, where they experienced severe injury, and
much distress, from dreadful storms of rain and
hail, in which many persons were killed by light-
ning. Since the ruin of Old Guatemala, the
greatest suffering of the new city was from the
small-pox, in 1780, which extended nearly all
over the kingdom : this distemper was of 90 ma-
lignant a character, that in a few days great num*
bers fell victims to it. That the infected might
not die without the administration of the usual
sacraments, the viaticum was carried from all
the parish churches, and also from those of the
regular religious orders. The defunct were not
permitted to be interred in the churches, both on
account of numbers, and because serious injury
might be done to the survivors, from the decora-
position of bodies in a state of such virulent con-
tagion; three cemeteries without the city were,
therefore, consecrated for their sepulture. The
zealous' devotion of the ayuntamiento, on this
melancholy occasion, was honourable in the ex-
treme; every effort was made to give assistance
158
to the poor, a regidor took charge of each quarter
of the city» and one was always in attendance at
the hospital^ estjablished out of it, for the recep-
tion of the variolns patients. Inoculation was
now, for the first time, practised in Guatemala^
with the most complete success ; for although so
many perished of the contagion, scarcely one of
those who were inoculated died.
TREATISE THE SECOND.
INTRODUCTION.
' It has been tnetitioned, in the introductory chap-
ter to the first part of this work, thtit the author's
intention was to facilitate the progress of any-
other person who might determine to write the
history of the country, by furnishing materials for
such an undertaking : for this 7)urpose, it ap-
peared to him, that the geographical description
of the kingdom, and the chronology of the city of
Guatemala, would be sufficient; but reflecting
afterward how intimately the history of the ca-
pital must be connected with that of the different
provinces, he determined upon giving an outline
of the general history of the kingdom. In the
geography many points of the history of parti-
cular places have been given^ but only en passant ;
and, consequently, without the detail necessary
to a more general treatise. It must, however, b^
here observed, that this attempt is not made
without a due conviction of its terminating with
several imperfections; for although there is abun-
dant matter for the history of some provinces^ yet
of the others but scanty information has been yet
obtained. In continuing this part of the work,
the same order will be observed as was pursued
in the formei^, viz. the kingdom of Guatemala
will be, in the first place, treated of generally;
secondly, the provinces of the southern part ;
160
thirdly, those in the north ; and» in conclusion^
those in the middle. As the general history of
the Indies was not, (or reasons already assigned,
resorted to for information in the preceding part ;
it has not been consulted in what the following
sheets present to the pnblic, except in cases where
other documents and accounts of the kingdom are
entirely silent. Recourse has been had to the
work of Francisco Antonio -de Fuentes y Guz-
man» regidor of the ayuntamiento of Guatemala,
an historian generally esteemed for correctness in
whatever he introduces; and we are assured by
himself, that in writing, he had the satisfaction of
having before him all the books^ records, and
other papers in the secret archives of the city, that
could in any way assist his researches. Besides
this history, information has been extracted from
the manuscripts of Gonzalo de Alvarado, and
Bernal Diaz del Castillo; the histories compiled
by caciques of the Pipil, Quiche» Kachiquel»
and Pocoman Indians, who having been taught
to write by the Spaniards, communicated many
historical fragments, which had been transmitted
to them by their ancestors. To this may be
added, that when Guzman was in the province of
Gueguetenango,of which he wascorregidor,he had
opportunities of verifying many points of its his-
tory : he went from place to place, for the express
purpose of examining particular curiosities, and
ascertaining any interesting facts or circum-
stances : he had also an opportunity of seeing,
and having explained to him, many of the paint-
ings, used by the Indians instead of books as re-
cords of their history. For these reasons, tlie
author does not hesitate to claim full confidence
161
in the authenticity of livfaat he introduces from
this interesting historian. The. third part of Guzr
man's work has, indeed, disappeared, and the
most active researches made to discover it have
hitherto proved unavailing: this is to be the
more regretted, as it leaves an hiatus in the his-
tory, that there are no possible means of filling
up, even by applying to the general hisjtory of the
Indies.
CHAP. L
Of the Establishment of the Monarchy qf Guate^
mala J and of the Kings who governed it y at the
Arrival of the Spaniards.
It is not intended to undertake, in this place, tlje
discussion of a subject that has already exhausted
abilities of the first order, viz. the original popula-
tion of America ; from a conviction, that when the
Tultecan Indians, from whom the Quiche and Ka-
chiquel kings descended, first came into this re«
gion, they found it already inhabited by people of
different nations ; and when these same Tultecas
entered into the kingdom of Mexico, thiey dis-
covered that the Chichiraecas had previously got
possession of it. This conviction is founded upon
the assumption^ that if all the inhabitants of this
kingdom did derive their origin from the Tul-
tecas, they would doubtless have spoken the
same language ; but as ther« are so many different
tongues used by the natives of it, the opinion in
favour of a common origin is untenable. Coming,
therefore, to the subject of the present chapter, it
appears from the manuscripts of Don JuanTorres,
M
163
th& BOB, and Don Jdaá Macfarm, thegrandseriy of
the KiQg Ofaignafiacelttt, and of l>0ii Francisco
GatoeZy the first Ahzib Kicbe,'^ that the Tuftécas^
were descended froni the honse of Israel^ ^nd
wele releú.sed by Moses from the captivity iii
which Pharaoh held tbem. Having passed the
Red Sea, they resigned themselves to the p<*actice
of idolatry, and persisted therein, in spite of the
admonitions of Moses; but to avoid his reproofs,,
or from the fear of his inflicting some chastise^
menty they chose to separate from him and hi&
brethren, and to retire from that part of the
country to a place which they called the Seven
Caverns; that is, from the borders of the Red
Sea, to what now is a part of the kingdom of
Mexico, where they founded the celebrated city
of Tulcu
Tfafe chief whs comobanded, and coñdacted this
multitude ÍTom (me continent to the other» v^a£^
Taiinb, the stock fh>m which sprung the fatnilteflk
of the kings of Tula and Quiche, and the firit
monori^ trf the Tilltecas. The second Was C^
pichocb) the third, Calel Ahus; ti^ fourth. Ah-
pepf^atid the fifth, Nihiaq ukhé, who beh^ii^re be-
loved tham any of his predecessors, was directed
by añ orade to leave Tula with the people, who
bad by thie (inoe melttplied greatly, and conduct
tbetti from the kingdom of Mexico \o that of
Guateóla. Ih performing this journey they ex-
l^bdéd Ríat^y yeaifs, sufiered extraordinary hard-
abipfi^ an^ wandered over an imniense tract of
* ihüs manusdl^i^ Wa^ (possessed by the descendants of Juad^
dé Led» C^rdelid, i^ppoiitted by Pedre de Aivarade, HeHteiWQi
of the eaptain-f cneral over the country of the Quichés. Fuentes*
assures us, that he obtained it by means of Father Francis Vas^
^uez, the historian of th^é order of Sf ^ Fraticis.
163
country, «útil tbey diacavered a large lake (the
lake of. AtitaD)j| and resolved to fix their babita-
tioQS ia a coovepient place at a short di^ttapce
from ky which they called Quiche, ia commemor
ration of their king Niooaq^uiché,* who died dur-
ing their peregrination.
^imaquiché was accouapanied by his three bro-
thers, and it was agreed^ that they should divide
the country between them ; one was to have for his^
share the province of the Q.ijielenes and Chapa^
necos ; another, TezMlutlan^ or Verapaz ; the third
to become chief of the Mames and Pocooianes;
and Nitnaquicbé of the Quichés, Kachiquels, and
Zutugiles ; the latter dying, was succeeded by his
son Acxopil, who was at the head of his nation
when they settled in Quiche, and the first mor-
narch who reigned in Utatlan. This prince, see-
ing that the monarchy soon rose to a high degree
of splendour, for its better government, and to re-
lieve jiimself from some of the fatigues of adminir
stration, appointed 13 captains or governors. The
manuscripts before mentioned add, that Acxopil,
having attained a very advanced age^ determined
upon dividing the empire into three kingdoms;
namely, the Quiche, the Kachiquel, and the Zu-
tugil : the first he retained for himself; the second
he gave to his eldest son, Jiutemal; and the third
to his youngest son, Acxiquat : this division was
made on a. day marked by the extraordinary cir-
cumstance of three suns being visible at the same
time, an incident that has induced some persons
to thiiik the partition was effected on the day of
* lo the Quiche languase Nima means great ; Niinaquiché,
théreforeí «iguiíies Great Quiche.
M 2
164
our Savioar^s birth, as it is commonly asserted
such a phenomeuon theo occurred ; but as a par-
helion is a meteor which has been so A^quently
observed, this does not appear to be sufficient
authority for fixing the division to tiiat particular
day. The Tultecan emperors who reigned in
Utatlan, the capital of Quiche, whose names have
reached posterity, were the following 17:
1 Acxopil^ 7 tqnibalatn» 18 Kicab IV,
2 JfiutemaU ^ Kicab h 14 Kicab Tanub,
3 HuDahpu, 9 Cacubraxecheio, 15 Tecum Umam,
4 Balam Kiché, 10 Kicab II, 10 Chignaviiicelut,
5 Balam A cao, 11 íximche, 17 Sequechul, or
6 Maucotah, 12 Kicab III^ Sequechit.
Of these the tnost distinguished was Acxopil, who
led his nation into this country, established in it the
empire of Quiche^ and divided itinto threedomains.
Jiutemal, who, before he succeeded his father
on the throne of Utatlan, was first king of the
Kachiquels, by which he was rendered next in
dignity to the monarch of Quiche.* Hunahpu
rendered himself celebrated by discovering the
use of cocoa and cotton. Nothing remarkable
was performed by any of the others, until the
time of Tecum Umatn, who occupied the throne
when the Spaniards arrived, and bravely resisted
their progress, until he fell by the hand of Fedro
de Al varado. After the death of this prince,
* These Indians dístiñgui^bed tbe degrees of savereigntV
among their kings, by the throne itself; that of Utatlan, which
was the first in rank, was píaced under four canopies, formed
of feathers, each of different colours, and of different sizes,
fixed one within the other; the throne of Kachiquel, or (jiua-
témala, Ghd tliree canopies; and that of Atitan, or Zutugil, had
but two.
165
Atvarado placed his eldest son, Chignaviucelutj
on the throne of Utatlan, but having canse to
suspect him of treason, he ordered him to be
banged, a very short time after he had placed the
crown upon his head. Sequechul succeeded ^
him, and reigned two years ; but, unable to brook
the disgrace of seeing himself reduced to a mere
yassal of the Spaniards, he revolted in the year
1526; his success was of short duration, and be*
ing vanquished^ he remained a prisoner during
the remainder of his life.
The manuscript of Juan Torres before noticed^
and another of Francisco Garcia Calel Tzumpan
Xavila, a descendant from the kings of Quiche^
written in 1544, relate that 13 armies left the old
continent^ headed by as many principal families,
who were all related to each other, but five of
them much more illustrious than the rest; these
were the families of Gapichoch, Gochohlaro, Mah-
quínalo, Ahcanail, and Belehebcam. From Ga-
pichoch, the trunk of the genealogical tree of the «
family of Nimaquiché, all the royal progeny of
the Indians of this kingdom derive their origin,
and these princes of the blood royal are called
Gaciques. The Ahaos are the hieads of noble li-
neages, descendants of the grandees who were
the immediate attendants upon the kings. From
the Ahaos are derived the Galpules, who con)-
pose the nobility of the villages Quezaltenango,
Tolonicapan, Iztaguacan, Ostuncalco, Zapotit-
lan^ and others. As the princes, or heads of fa-
milies, were very nearly related to each other, it is
clear, that as the emperors of Mexico were de-
scendants of Belehebcan, relative of Gopiehoh,
the original stock from whom the monarchs of
166
Qatdié sprung, Uie kings oÍ both coontrtes are of
the Sfime race. It appears, too, that these princes^
acknowledged the relatioiishtp, and maintaioed a
comroooication with each other ; for it is related*
In a oianuscript of 16 quarto folios, wbich^ is
preserved by the Indians of the village of St. An*-
dres Xecu}, in page 4, that when Moctezumit
\rasi made prisoner, he sent a private ambassar
dor to Kicaib Tantii», king of Qniehé, to inforin
him some white men had arrived in his statea,
and made war upon him with such impetuosi-
ty ¡, that the whole strength of his people, was
nnafole to resist them ; that he was himself a
prisoner surrouaded by guards; and hearing it
was the intention of his invaders to pass on to
the kingdom of Quiche, and subdue it, he rar
isolFed to send notice of the design» in order that
Kicab TanuA» might be prepared to oppose them.
This is a strong proof of a good understanding
Slaving subsisted between the two kings; for if
Moctezuma, watched as he was hy his keepers,
could contrive to dispatch this messenger secretly
to Kicab, there is no doubt but frequent inter-
course took place between them in the time of
peaice and tranquillity. In pages 5 and 6 of the
iBanuscript^ 4t is said^ thai as soon as the king (9f
Quiche received this intelligence» he sent for £our
young diviners, whom be ordered to tell him what
/would be tb^ result of the invasion; these per-
sons reqtiested time to give their ans^ver, and,
taking their bows, they discharged some arrows
against a rock, but seeing that no impression was
left upon it; they returned very sorrowfully, and
told the king there was no means of avoiding the
disaster, for the white men would certainly cop-
m
f^uer theti;. IMcab, npt well ^ti^^éi ^ith ttte
r^ply, ¿apt for iJbe priests^ acid <Í9BÍr€() to k^y^
jtbeir opjLqions on thjs eveaitful sulyect ; wití^ gr^d^
laineotatipps, they delivered a sipüilar prognoe^tip
i>f disaster to their m<Qpard;i, fouq4ing their 0<^
i:lusiaQ ^pOB the oiuiq^us iGÍr<>umstappe of ^ q^^
tain stooe, which had b/een brought by th^r for^-
others from Egypt, and which wa9 worshipfie^ W
^ god, haviiig :$qddi^ply ^pUt io two j nii iq^ideiPtt
that |>ofteDded the ioeyitaible ruin of their eip^r^.
J^icab^ however, ejill inured plpus, and AQt intimi-
dated, 'u»v^ed'^te]y began to tnake the btist miU-
tary di&positip^s in hi$ power, for a r^^olv^te de-
fence of his dominions ; but in the mids^ pf hiis
preparations, death put fin end to his p^^er. This
princrpal Indians, who caipe with thje Sp^n^jtirdp
from Mexico ^ind Tla^cala^ persuaded of ihp4d€^r
tity of their own origin and that of the p^opl^ of
this country, d^^^^d ¿benitselves relatione and
friends, formed more intimate connexions by inr
itermarriages with the Quichés, and gave them ft
copy of the instrument by which they had re-
ceived from the Emperor Cjbarles the Fifth the
honour of a cp^t of arms^ for the gres^ services
ihey had rendered to the Spanish army ki the con^
quest of New $paÍQ*
CHAP. II.
Some Account of the Quichés before the Aj rival qf
the Spaniards.
In the prepfdiqg chapiter it hss been mtentioned,
that the Tult^a Indians came from the lungdo«a
of Mexico tp Guatemala, under the cpmmand of
their king, Nimaq^iché ; this prince liayiog re-
168
signed to his brother the dominioD over the Mam
and Pocoman nations» died soon afterward ; bis
son, Acxopil, assumed the chief authority, and
completely established the whole of his uaticm in
' Quiche. Either from the extraordinary multi*
plication of his own subjects, or from having suV
dued the people who previously inhabited these
regions, in a very short time be found himself
master of the territories which at present form the
provinces of Solóla, Chimaltenango^ Sacatepe-
ques, and part of those of Quezaltenango and
Totonicapan. When Acxopil had reached an
advanced age, he found bis empire so much ex-
tended, that the government of it became too la-
borious for his exhansted strength and weakened
faculties; he therefore subdivided it into the
three lordships of Quiche, Kachiquel, and Zutu*
gil : the first he reserved for himself; the second
he gave to his eldest son, Jiutemal ; and the last
to his second son^ Acxiquat. In this manner, the
territory, now comprised in the aforementioned
provinces, wasdivided into the four distinct govern-
ments of Quiche, Kachiquel, ZuUigil, and Mam.
Quiche then comprehended the present dis-
tricts of Quiche, Totonicapan, part of Quezalte-
nango, and the village of Rabinal ; in all these
places the Quiche language is spoken. For this
reason, it may be inferred with much probability,
that the greater part of the province of Sapo-
titlan, or Suchiltepeques, was a colony of the
Quichées, as the same idiom is made use of nearly
throughout the whole of it : to this may be added,
as it clearly appears from the manuscripts of
these Indians, that Hunahpu, the third king of
Quiche, first discovered the use of cocoa and
169
cotton, both productions of a warm climate» con*
sequently not growing in Quiche, which is very
cold ; it therefore seems extremely credible^ that
thid prince sent some people from his own domi-
nions to cultivate these plants in the province of
Soehiltepeques.
The territory of the Kachiqueles was composed
of that which now forms the provinces of Chi-
maltenango and Sacatepeques, and the district
of Solóla ; and as the Kachiquel language is also
spoken in the villages of Patulul, Cotzumalgua-
pan, and others along the same coast, it is a plau-
sible supposition that they were colonies settled
by the Kachiquels, for the purpose of cultivating
the desirable productions of a warmer climate than
. their own. The dominion of the Zutugiles extend-
ed over the modern district of A titan, and the vil-
lage of St. Antonio, Suchiltepeques, where theZu-
tugil idiom is spoken, and in which, most proba- ^
bly, were th^e cocoa plantations of these Indians,
The Mams occupied the existing district of Giie-
gUetenango, a part of Quezal tenango, and the
province of Soconusco, and in all these places
the 'Mam or Pocoman language, is vernacular.
It is a circumstance not a little remarkable, that
this idiom is also peculiar to places very distant
froui the country of the Mams 2 viz. in Amátitan,
Mixco, and Petapa, in the province of l^acatepe-
qués; Chalchuapa, in St. Salvador; Mita, Ja-
lapa, and Xilotepeque, in Chiquimula.
It happened, in the extensive territory thus par-
titioned, and if has been an almost every day oc-
currence in the world, that' kings and governors,
how vast soever their own dominions, have been
ambitious of enlarging them at the expenise-of
170
their inunediate aeighbaarsf that Acxiquat^'kiiig
<^f the ZutugileB5 finding his «tate« Dttich too
8Biall for Ms inordinate desires, ielt ^ iaclinatíov
to extend his boundaries, by c^rt^ling those of
his brother JiutenuiK With i\ú^ 4esjgn« he ^|tr
sembled a large army, well equipped, ancj fiaviog
supplied it abundantly with prqyisioas, he took
the coounand in person^ and ady.ainced to the qpnir
0fie6 of the kingdom of Kacbiquel ; his farther
|Mt>gi*e8s being stopped by the brave general^
whom Jiateoial had stationed on his Irontiers, he
thought }t advisable to halt on the plains of Se-
naetabax ; in this position be continued until ihe
obtained intelligeoce that Jiutemal was cooking
^gain^t him with a very powerful body of men ;
he then retreated to Atitan, and shut hinaseLf up
in the strong fortress of the Rock, which ^ervied
' him both as a place of arms^ and ajB a frontier
barrier, it being nearly circumvallated by the lake,
^notwithstanding Acxiquat had so strongly forti^
£ed himself, Jiutemal, feeling highly incensed at
b^ng thus provoked by bis younger brother, a^^
having under his command a body pf vetofan
troops, familiar with the art of war, apd eager to
^igpalize themselves in the presence of thciir sove-
reign, he determined to enjt^ the stales pf his
jrival ; dividing his for^e into ^several ^orps, he
j^ade a simultan^pus attack on v^ri[0^«s {K>int8,
with so much auccps^, that he was able to occupy
a great pari of the boirders of the lakf;. The
KachiqMels beii^ without c^^noes to crpss the
hke, were uni^ble to attack thp rock fortress ;
but, high in spirits, they l^ft qp n^e^^n^ UPtripd that
were Jikely lo insure the viitpry, ^dfyim their
various sallies, the ai^y/pf J^p;3^iqi^a^ snáfered
171
ir^y severely \ |>ut4be/8e reyer$^s,-aDd even fféálter
which followed, were unable to tepaustm the daring
spirit of tba^ (»rince^ who coMected another army
to oppose Jiutemal, and prolonged the war for
i^me time, occasioning a dreadful waste of lives,
liqtil the ip^diation of their veiierable fatly^
Acxopil, put an end to the contest. Jiirtwtal
shrewdly appreciating the ambitious 4Jfl|^8Ítion
of Acxiquat» industriously availed imxiself of this
season of peace, to prepare agj^st future bos^U-
ties, and strengthened tbe ñ*ontiers of his king-
dom by garrisons, Éo firotect the centre from any
sudden irruptu^* With this view he constructed
a place of arms in Tecpanguatemala, by which
fortraM, and several other intrencbments and de-
fe&ces, he left his kingdom well protected to his
eldest son. Jiqt^mal became regent of the em*
pire of Quiche, being associated with his father,
Acxopll^ in the government, opon whose death he
succeedied to the sov^eignty. Elevated to the
supreme authority over the empire of Utatlan, be
did not feel himself secure, at all confident in
the good conduct of his brother, or eveQ without
suspicion^ of his own son, noyf raised to the royal
dignity of Guatemala, or of the Kacbi<iuels;
therefore, the first acts of his reign bad for their
object, the fortification and better security of
hjs icingd9m ; he constructed in bis capital two
strong castles, the Resguardo and Atalaja, al<-
re^dy fdes^ribed in the geographical part of this
work, besides several others in different parts of
the kingdom. About this time, also, were built
the famous fortresses in the great chain of Par-
raxquin (a word in the Quiche langucie meaning
a green mountain, a name given to it, from its
173
being continually covered with verdure). This
long ridge formed a natural bulwark to the king*
dom of Quiche ; and in such places where a pas-
sage might be effected by an enemy» castles were
erected, to throw every possible impediment in
the way of an invader; one of these strong posts
was built in the place called Xetinamit, to protect
a very handsome palace belonging to the kings of
Utatlan. Another castle, of which the foundation
was discovered on the summH of Christali, was
built in that situation to repress any ipvasion of
the Mams ; and a third on the top of a very high
mountain, that may be discovered from the road
of St. Andres» for the purpose of keeping in check
the people of Zutugil.
Jiutemal was not deceived in his conjectures ;
for AcxQpil had no sooner paid the debt of nature,
than Acxiquat resumed hostilities. The posses-.-
sion of the Lake A titan was the object of this
war ; the old king Acxopil had divided it between
the three kingdoms, Quiche, Kachiquel, and Zu^
tugil; but the sovereign of the latter, either from a
desire of repairing the losses of his former cam-
paign, or with the intention of enlarging his domi-
nions by making himself master of the whole lake,
took up arms, and began a destructive war that
lasted all the reign of Jiutemal, and part of that
of his son Hunahpu. The forces of the king of
Quiche being greatly superior to that of Atitlan,
Hunahpu, after many bard contested battles, ob-
tained complete possession of the lake, Subse-
quent to these victories, it fe not known that any
other military operations were carried on during
the reign of Hunahpu, or of his successor B^
lam Kiché^
V3
CHAP. HI.
Continuation of the History of the Tultecas. Ab-
duction of the Princesses of Quiche.
On the demise of Balam Kiché, Balam Acan as*
cended the throne of Quiche. This prince, who
-was of a kind and gentle disposition^ lived on
terms of great intimacy and confidence with his
cousin Zotugilebpop, king of the Zutugiles ; but
the latter abusing the generosity of Balam Acan,
seduced his daughter Ixcunsocil, and carried her
away from the palace of Utatlan. Iloacab, the near
relation and favourite of Zutugilebpop, imitated
his conduct in this respect, and carried away
Ecselixpua, the niece of the king of Quiche.
These incidents are related in the nmnuscripts of
Don Juan Macario, Francisco Garcia Calel Tzum-
pan, and Francisco Gomez Ahzib. The con-
fusion in the king's icourt was indescribable, as,
«oon as the princesses were missed ; Balam Acan
Mras greatly enraged at the indignity offered to
his family, and losiflg for a time the usual mild-
ness of his nature, caused several of the persons
abput his household to be put to death in dread*
ful torments ; and so great was the s^itatipn of
his mind^ that a violent illness succeeded. Im-^
mediately after bis recovery, he assembled the
principal caciques, ahaos, and counsellors of big
kingdom, communicated to them the. affront he
had received from Zutugilebpop, and required
their assistance in taking a revenge, commensu-
rate to the offence given. They alt expressed
their readiness to take arrtis to obtain redress^
Í74
and with the greatest celerity made preparations
for a campaign ; a long and obstinate war ensued,
and lasted through the reigns of several succeed*
ing monarchs, both of Quiche and Atitan. In
fact, from the period of the first partition of the
empire until the arrival of the Spaniards, from
one cause or another, these two kingdoms were,
with the exception of a very few short intervals^
continually in a state of hostility. When the
operations of the war commenced, the fertile fields
of Quiche groaned beneath the tread of 80,000
veteran soldiers, well armed and provkied with
warlike stores; that division which dil*ected its
march towards the frontiers of Atitan, under the
general Maucotah, had in the centre squadron
Balam Acan himself, adorned with three diar
dems, and other regal ornaments, carried in a rich
chair of state, splendidly ornamented with gold,
eitieralds, and other precious stones, upon the
shoulders of the nobles of his court The prepa»»
rations of the king of Utatlan did not escape the
observation of Zutugilebpop, who knowing the
great superiority of his antagonist's forces over
his own, immediately sent embassies not only to
the caciques subject to his jurisdiction, but to
those of Zapotttlan and' Soconusco, to solicit
their assistance; these, however, excused them«*
selves from giving the required aid, alleging as
a reason for the refusal, the war then pending
between them and thdr neighbouring nations*;
hni the Pipiles, who had no such preventative,
4dntered into his quarrel with great earnestness.
As Balam Acan had the option of various points
by which he could make an irruption into the teiv
ritories of his rival, the latter stationed himself in
174Í
hk capital ^tb a force of 60,000 men^ lieteN
i»Hied to dfitect fais plan» according to the move^
meDts of his enemy's attny. The Quiche gene-
ral Maucotah attacked Ifae strong post of Polopó,
iP^iiich was defended by lopincabé and a gar*
rison of 400& strong ; but this chief and 500 of
his men being slain in the first assault, the Quichés
900U cofupelled the remainder to surrender. They
soon after reduced the populous city of Chicochiti,
tb^ugh not without sustaining a great loss of men*
Balaai Acati placed a garrison of 5000 men in thisf
city ; and ordered Maucotah to direct his march
against Atitan, at the head of 30, 000 men, intend-
ing to follow this detachment with a body of 60,000
combatants. Zutugilebpop observing the dread-
ful havoc made by the enemy's troops, resolved
to fry the event of a battle ; he therefore advanced
to the encounter with 60,000 men commanded by
Iloacab, his chief general^ and accomplice in car^
rying off the princesses. A contest so desperate
and bloody never before happened in this country:
the ^td of battle was so deeply inundated with
blood, that not a Made of grass could |>e seen ¡
and sticb wfts the unyielding courage on bothsidesi
that the chance of victory was long undecided :
lloacab being at length killed by an arrow, th^
bravery of the] Zutugiles seemed to be lost with,
tbeit leader, an irresistible panic ensued, and they
gave way immediately, leaving Balam Aca^
master of the field of carnage. Thus fell lloacab^
a prince, ivbo, had be not soiled the purity of his
character by the act before narrated, appeared
worthy of a crown ; he possessed good quali-
ties and endowments that adorned his elevated
station ; he was highly esteemed by the peo-
176
ple^ and in all probability would have continued
to rise in their estimation, had his life been pro-
longed.
This victory did not terminate the campaign ;
Balam Acan divided his forces, and retaining
under his personal command a bi)dy of 50,000
veterans, he placed two others of 30,000 each
under the orders of Maucotah and Atzihuindc.
Zutugilebpop also commanded his army in per- ,
son ; it consisted of 40,000 warriors, and his auxili-
aries amounting to 20,000 more, he placed under
the direction of the cacique Rosche. The fortunes
of the war were various, and victory alternately
favoured each party. In one action, the king of
Atitan was compelled to retreat ; but in another,
the Pipiles defeated and killed Atzihuinac and
300 of his followers. The principal object of Ba-
lara A can was to attack the capital of Zutugileb-
pop, and recover, if possible, the two princesses ;
he therefore directed his march towards that
city, with his whole army, which was now rein-
forced by the auxiliaries sent by the chief of Te^
zulutlan (now Verapaz), under the command of
the general Chuatza, and amounted altogether to
1 20,000 meu. The king of x4titlan also, reinforced
by the Mam Indiana, advanced to meet him, with
90,000 men. As soon as the two armies came in
sight of each other, the signal of attack was given,
and both parties closed with such fury, that, at
the first shock, the number killed on each side
was so great, that their bodies impeded the move-
ments of those who escaped the slaughter. The
battle was only terminated by the night, and each
army remained on the field.
Under cover of the darkness, Zutugilebpop
177
quitted his position, and two days subsequent
appearing unexpectedly before Polopó and Tolir
man, recovered both these places; and immedi-
ately afterward returned to the plains of Atitlan.
Balam Acan pursued with his troops, and came
up with a body of Zutugiles, commanded by
the cacique Chichiactulu : he attacked them, and
another obstinate battle ensued, rather to the dis-
advantage of Chichiactulu. Zutugilebpop quick-
ly advanced to the support of his general, at-
tacked the Quichés in front, flanks, and rear,
at the same time, with great impetuosity, and en-
deavoured to break their lines; but, after an hour
and a half of determined fighting, he was unable
to prevail over their steady valour. The Zutu-
giles closed with them on all sides ; yet the Qui-,
ótiés, aided by the Kachiquels, were undismay-
ed, and n^ntained their resistance with desperate
yalour. i^lam Acan, intrepid and indefatigable,
was conveyed to every part of his army, and en-
couraged the troops by his animation and enthu-
siasm. At this time, Zutugilebpop, with a chosen
body of 10,000 lancers, attacked the enemy in
flank, and forced them to give ground. At this
crisis, the bearers of Balam Acan, who were
hastening with him to the thickest of the fight,
lost their footing, and precipitated him to the
earth ; when he was instantly overpowered by the
Zutugiles, and slain. Juan Macario asserts, that
in this action not less than 14,000 Indians were
left dead on the field. Balam Acan, in the opinion
of the historians of his race, was deserving of a
better fate ; land had his life been longer, it would
have been beneficial to his subjects. His under-
standing was of the first order; his mind capá-
N '
1?8
cíous and well stored ; his dÍ8po8ÍtíoB noblo,
generous, and merciful ; and he was one of the
bravest and most prudent generals of bis time«
He estimated the sacredness of his person rathei?
too highly, and his delicacy in the point of ho-
nour was a little overstrained ; for, in fact, when
strictly considered, the offence of Zutugilebpop
did not cast a scandal upon his family, that could
reasonably have called forth such implacable en-
mity : had he carried off the princesses to abuse,
and then abandon them, the animosity of his oppo-
nent would have been unimpeachable; but when
one of them became the partner of the throne
of Atitlan^ and the other was married to a mem-
ber of the royal family, the imprudence of tbq
transaction might perhaps have been pardoned,
without any compromise of family honour. Aa
it was, this keen feeling of honour in the monarch
gave rise to a war that involved the whole country
in its horrors for many years ; for all the chieftain3
took a part in it, some as principal belUgerieipts,
and others as auxiliaries. The king of Quiche
had on his side the kings of Guatemala and
Tezulutlan; the monarch of Zutugil was as^i^t-
ed by the Pipiles and the Mams. «Hence origi-
nated many other contests ; the principals making
war against the auxiliaries, and these pne against
the others. That which broke out between the
Kachiquels and the Pipiles, was obstinate and
destructive, and did not terminate until the reign
of Nimabuinac, king of Guatemala, who obtaiping.
decisive advantages over the Pipiles, forced To-
naltut, their chief, to sue for peace ; which was.
granted only on condition that they should ''enter
into a perpetual alliance and qopfeder^tion with
179
the Qaiehées aod Racbiquels. The Quichées
attacked the Mams, because the latter bad de*-
clared tbemselves tbe allies of Zutogilebpop.
Balam Acan sent an army, under the comraaud
of tbe cacique Cbuatza, which overran all the
territory of the Mams, and committed every spe-
cies of hostility that could be devised.
Maucotah succeeded Balam Acan, on the
throne of Utatlán ; being, at the death of the
latter, engaged in the campaign, be was, by
the army, proclaimed king of Quiche. Wish-
ing to continue the war, to revenge the death of
his predecessor, he made a fresh levy of 1 10,000
men, to recruit his army ; and appointed Togily-
ahza his second in command. Zutugiiebpop, vic-
torious, and elated by good fortune, spread bis
troops over the highlands of Quichée; ravaged
the corn-fields and plantations; burnt the villages;
and ultimately marched against the large and
strongly fortified city of Xelabuh. The king,
Maucotah, duly estimating the importance of this
place, selected 70,000 of his best troops for its de-
fence, and detached the remaining 40,000 to make
an irruption into the territory of Atitan^ to besiege
some of the cities and strong places in the low
countries, and on the borders of the lake; by
which diversion^ he expected his antagonist would
be forced to abandon the design upon Xelahnh.
The Quichée army marched against that of Zutu-
gil, that had taken a position before the cas-
tle of Xelahuh ; Zutugiiebpop, perceiving he
would either be compelled to fight the advancing
army on one side, and the garrison of the castle
on the other, simultaneously, or else abandon the
field with a diminished reputation, determined,
N 2
180
in this dikmma, to try his fortune by a daring en-
terprise. He selected 20,000 Zntugiles» whonn
he put under the command of Coculenh» cacique
of Samayaque, with orders to attack the Qniché
army. An obstinate battle took place; in thecourse
of which, victory seemed to incline several times
to each side. After much sev^e fighting, a body
of the Quichés made a detour by a road con-
cealed by a plantation of canes, that brought them
on the flank of the Zutugiles ; which they at-
tacked with great impetuosity, and put to flight,
after killing the cacique Coculeuh, several of the
principal nobles, and a great number of soldiers.
Maucotab, with his main body, charged Zutugi-
lebpop, and threw him into great disorder. The
chiefs rallied the troops, and they in turn became
the assailants. The fortune of the day was, for a
long time, in suspense; until the Quichés attacked
the van of the Zutugiles, who, being now fatigued
and dispirited, began to give ground ; and all
the exertions of the king and his generals were in-
sufficient to encourage them to a renewal of the
contest. After this disaster, Zutugilebpop made
his escape through the by-roads, and reached
his capital. The operations of Mancotah's force,
which had been detached against the places on
the coast of the South Sea, and the territories
about the lake, were not less detrimental to his
enemies. Many towns were burnt ; many others
surrendered, and were added to the dominions of
the victors; and, amongst them, the famous city
of Samayaque. Reverses so severe, with the en-
tire rout and destruction of his armies, affected
Zutugilebpop so much, that he fell into a melan-
choly despondency, which soon terminated : his
181
existence. He was succeeded on the throne by
Rumal AhauSy a youth only 19 years of age.
As soon as this sovereign had -assumed the
sceptre, he began, with all the eagerness peculiar
to youth, to raise an army of 50,000 men, to op-
pose the progress of Maucotah, who with 80,000
was now endeavouring to recover the fortresses
Polopó and Toliman. • When the two armies
came in sight of each other, Maucotah sent an
ambassador to Rumal Ahaus, with orders to
express his surprise that a king so young, and
without experience, should have the audacity to
contend against a monarch who was grown old
in camps, at the head of a nation so renowned for
valour as the Quichés were; and that if he washed
to avoid a total overthrow, he must surrender Po-
lopó and Toliman, with some other towns of his
kingdom, and he should then be permitted to re-
tain the remainder in peace. To this proposal,
Rumal Ahaus replied, that he was much more
astonished at the insatiable ambition of the king
of Utatlan in desiring, and his folly in supposing,
that he would alienate these places from his
crown, on a peremptory demand ; but that if
Maucotah was inclined to spare the lives of the
vassals on each side, he was ready to stake the
towns in question against a similar number in the
kingdom of Quiche, and to decide the dispute by
single combat. - On receiving so unexpected a re-
ply, Maucotah repaired to the army, and made
his dispositions for attacking that of Rumal
Ahaus. A very severe action ensued, in which
the two kings, to the admiration of their respec-
tive armies, descended from their litters, and
fought hand to hand ; in determination and eou^
rage tbey were well matched ; but Rumal Ahaus,
hearing a loud shout from the rear of his Hues,
which had been suddenly attacked by 10,000
Quichées» turned his eyes, and inclined his body
in that direction to ascertain the cause of it, whea
Maucotah seizing the advantage, wounded him
in the neck with a d^rt; this misfortune obliged
Rumal Ahaus to retire with the loss of many of
his nobles, who bravely defended him in his re-
treat : the battle lasted all the day, and night put
an end to it without deciding the victory. The
following dawn shewed the field abandoned by
the Zutugiles ; during the night Polopó and Toli-
man were evacuated, and they were now taken
possession of by Maucotah. This monarch, how-
ever, did not long enjoy his triumph; sinking
under the burden of years, and the violence of
diseases brought on by continual fatigue and ex*
posure in his various campaigns, he died, leaving
his kingdom overwhelmed by sorrow at the loss
of his great military talents and domestic virtues.
Iquibalam was next crowned king of Quiche ;
he was a prince of competent age, with abilities
to sustain the weight of government, and the di-
rection of military affairs; qualifications pecu-
liarly requisite at this period, because Rumal
Ahaus, who had speedily recovered from his
wound, bent the whole force of his exertions,
not merely to defend his own kingdom, but to
attack every vulnerable point of Quiche. Iqui-
balam was therefore forced to keep on foot a very
strong military force ; and to interrupt the pro-
jects of his opponent, he determined to carry the
war into the states of Rumal Ahaus and his allies,
and keep them constantly upon the defensive. To
183
effect this he increased bis army to 200,000 men,
and stationed it at convenient points along the
frontiers of Atitlan, so as to make 7 different at-
tacks at the same time. The troops of Iquiba-
lam succeeded in surprising and subduing many
cities and places belonging to the Pipiles and Za-
potitlan, but with an enormous expenditure of ^
lives, for during an excursion in the mountains
they lost upwards of 8,000 men. In the course
of these events Iquibalam died ; this loss spread
general sorrow throughout his kingdom ; for he
was a prince of indefatigable industry, sound judg-
ment, and great experience.
On the demise of this monarch, Kicab ascended
the throne; his mature age, and long practice,
both in the civil and military administration, in
which he displayed a clear apprehension and
consummate prudence, rendered him a worthy
successor to Iquibalam.
In the kingdom of Atitlan, Rumal Ahaus was
succeeded by Chichiahtulu, who had been the
next in command under him, and had obtained
great advantages over the Quichées in the memo-
rable mountain campaign: the first act of his reign
was to lay siege to Totonicapan. Kicab opposed
the designs of Chichiahtulu with a formidable
army, and raised besides a body of 60,000 men,
with which he attacked many of the towns and
villages of the Zutugiles and Pipiles, and parti-
cularly the city of Patulul ; although the go-
vernors of these places made the most strenuous
efforts to defend them, they were unable to resist
the superior forces of the Quichées, and ultimately
forced to surrender. Chichiahtulu seeing some of
his tiiost valuable possessions had been captured,
184
abandoned the 8Í^e of Totonicapan.and retarned, .
by forced marches, to defend what still remained ;
but being attacked by a violent fever, brought on
by the rapidity and fatigues of his progress, he
died in a few days, greatly lamented by his. peo*
pie. The march of the army was not impeded
by this event, and it advanced under the com-
mand of Manilahuh, until it arrived in view of
the Quiche camp ; the attack immediately began
with great fury, and was resisted with equal vi-
gour; but as the forces of Kicab were closely
united, and strongly posted in double lines, while
those of Manilahuh were weakened by their great
extent, in less than an hour and a half, the latter
were entirely routed, leaving their general and
many principal officers, with a great number of
men dead on the field: the Quichés celebrated
their victory with great rejoicings, and the army
immediately returned to the capital of Utatlan.
From this period nothing is known of the parti-
cular warlike operations of these two kingdoms,
during the reigns of the next seven monarchs that
succeeded Kicab ; but it is certain the two coun-
tries were never long together in a state of peace ;
for the Zutugiles having lost many of their posses-
sions in the wars already mentioned, always felt
the greatest desire to recover them, and for this
reason sought every pretext for kindling fresh
wars. Besides the contests that ravaged the do-
minions of the Quichés and Zutugiles, there were
many others between different states ; among these,
the most remarkable was the unjust aggression
of Kicab the Second upon Lahuhquieh, cacique
of the Mams. According to the Xecul manu-
script, under the head Ahpopquehan, folios 11 and
IS5
12, Kicab finding himself with sufficient forces
for undertaking any enterprise with great proba-
bility of success, assembled a military council of
-all his generals, and stated to them the great in-
crease in the population of his states, and the in-
sufficiency of his territory to afford them suste*
nance; on the other hand, he represented the
great extent of country occupied by the Mams, a
wretched people^ for whom, in his opinion, a
much smaller portion would amply suffice; and
that by subduing, he might confine them to much
narrower limits, and appropriate the greater part
of their territory to the use of his own subjects.
But little persuasion was required to induce these
officers to coincide in opinion with their sovereign;
the attempt was resolved upon unanimously, and
the necessary preparations for the war were com-
menced with the greatest alacrity. The clang of
arms resounded in every part of the kingdom^
without its being known what neighbouring state
was threatened by the tempest : the kings of Ka-
cbiquel and Zutugil, the chiefs of Rabinal, and
the Mams, all made ready to resist a hostile at-
tack; the storm at last burst upon Lahuhquieh,
the cacique of Mam, who bravely hastened to
repel the torrent of invasion. The army of Kicab,
numerous and inured to war, marched in 13 di-
visions under different leaders, the whole com-
manded by the king in person ; that of Lahuh-
quieh, not so numerous as his aggressors, but no
ways inferior in courage and discipline, was led
by the principal nobles of his nation. Both par-,
ties advanced to the encounter with a dreadful
noise of warlike instruments, shouting of the sol-
diers, and every species of discordant clamour ;
186
the únoBtitains and forests re-echoed the noise t)f
the assaolly like the howlings of a furious tem*
pest; the battle was terrible, and the numbers
slain on each side imn^ense; the edges of the
swords made of the stone called Chay, did great
execution among those who fought in the fore-
most ranks, and the missiles, such as darts and
stones hurled by slings, were equally destructive
among those at greater distance ; the contest
lasted the whole day, and at night Kicab with-
drew the Quichées, under cover of the darkness,
and took up a position on the summit of a rising
ground, the Mams remaining on the inferior part
of it As soon as day broke on the following
morning, the Quichées assaulted the Mams with a
shower of stones and arrows, that made great ha-
voc; the latter finding themselves so much exposed
to these missiles, resolved to attack the eminence :
but the Quichées having the advantage of po-
sition, easily sustained this desperate enterprise,
and speedily overthrew the assailants ; Lahuh-
quieh however retreated slowly, and in good
order, halting in a favourable position at some
distance from the scene of action : here he re-
mained until the Quichées descended into the
plain, and attacked him again ; these were how-
ever warmly received by the Mams, and ulti-
mately forced to regain their eminence ; being
pursued to their very defences, the fight was re-
newed with great bravery on both sides. During
the battle the Mams were attacked by the ca-
dque íxinché, who had brought a reinforcement
of fresh troops to Kicab, and obliged to quit the
field ; they were so closely pursued by Ixinché,
as to find it necessary to abandon all their towns
187
(which the Quicfaées pillaged), and retired with
Xiabubquieb to the mountains of the northern
ridge, where their posterity are at present settled*
Nor did Nitnahuinac, king of the Kachiquels,
long enjoy the repose which the perpetual peace
and alliance ratified with the Pipiles seemed to
promise him : for having appointed his relation,
Acpocaquil, treasurer of his revenues, this traitor
excited a rebellion against him, and got posses*
sion of Patinamit (now Tepanguatemala), with all
the country appertaining to it ; the king of the
Zutugiles having declared himself the ally of Ac-*
pocaquil, a war broke out between them, which
was raging on the arrival of the Spaniards. It is
supposed, upon very reasonable grounds, that this
war was the cause why Sinacam, who had suc-
ceeded to the throne of the Kachiquels, sued to
the Spaniards for peace, in order to recover, by
their assistance, the extensive possessions that
had been wrested from him by Acpocaquil an ally
of the king of A titan.
CHAP. IV.
Of the Laws and Government of the Indians.
To those who have opportunities of observing the
humble state of the natives of this country in the
present day, and of viewing the rudeness^ the di-
minutive size and inconvenience of their habita-
tions, find great difficulty in believing that the In-
dians, in their state of paganism, could have had
such well arranged and well defended cities, such
magnificent palaces, fortresses constructed with so
much art, and other buildings of pure ostentation
and grandeur, as are described in their histories.
198
The richest Indian in modern times, has but one
dwelling ; and although it may contain several
apartments^ they are irr^ularly disposed and un-
connected with each other. There is no instance
of one of them possessing a house that exhibits
any thing like convenience or good order ; even
after they had seen those of the Spaniards, and
bad assisted in constructing them. It is also no
less difficult to conceive, how this people could
have been governed by laws so just and well di-
gested, that they might have been adopted with
advantage into the codes of the most civilized na-
tions, when we Tie w their existing state of rusti-
city, and destitution of talent. The great palace
and city of Utatlán, the cities of Tepanguatemala*
and Mixco, the fortresses of Parraxquin, Socoleo,
Uspantlan, Chalcitan, and several others, vestiges
of which yet remain, and are admired ; the great
circus of Copan, the great stone hammock and
cave of Tibulca, that are now in existence, will,
in spite of scepticism, force from us a considerable
portion of confidence in the first part of these his-
tories ; and credit will be given to the latter, by a
reference to those laws, which shall be cited for
the purpose of shewing the prudence and discre-
tion of the Indians, and to overthrow the mean and
degrading conception that it has been so long the
fashion to entertain of their capacity.
Commencing with the law of succession to the
throne, it was ordained that the eldest son of the
king should inherit the crown ; upon the second
* This is to be understood of the ancient city of Patinamit,
' which was 11 leagues distant from the village of Tecpanguate-
mala ; and of the ancient Mixco, that was situated in the valley
of Xilotepeque, at a considerable distance from the present
village of that name.
189
SOD the title of Elect was conferred, as being the
next heir to his elder brother; the sons of the el-
dest son received the title of Captain senior, and
those of the second Captain junior. When the
king died, his eldest son assumed the sceptre, and
the Elect became the immediate inheritor; the
Captain senior ascended to the rank of Elect, the
Captain junior to that of Captain senior, and the
next nearest relative to that of Captain junior.
Advancing in this manner by gradations to the
throne, the monarch s began their reigns at a ma-
ture age, in possession of many qualifications, and
much experience, both in civil and military go-
vernment. But if any one of these four personages
viras found to be incapable of governing, he re-
mained in his first rank until his death, and the
next nearest relation was raised to the superior
dignity.
The supreme council of the monarch of Quiche
was composed of 24 grandees, with whom the king
deliberated on all political and military affairs.
These counsellors were invested with great dis-
tinctions and many privileges; they carried the em-
peror on their shoulders in his chair of state when-
ever he quitted his palace, but they were severely
punished if they committed any crime. The admi-
nistration of justice, and the collection of the royal
revenues, were under their charge.
The king appointed lieutenants in the principal
towns of his empire, who enjoyed great honours,
large emoluments, and supreme authority, except
in cases that concerned the rights or privileges
of the ahaus, which were remitted to the supreme
council. If these deputies neglected their duties,
or committed offences, they were speedily re-
190
moved, and severely chastised ; bat, on the con*
trary, whea they governed with pradeace and im-
partiality» without giving the subject cause, of
complaint» they were i'etained in their posts» dis*
tinguished by greater honours» and as a mark of
respect to their merits» their sons frequently sue*
ceeded to their offices.
These lieutenants of the king» or corregidors o£
districts» had also their councils» to which» as well
as in the supreme council, when any business c^
superior moment that concerned the public good
was debated» the chiefs of the calpuls or nobles
were invited to declare their opinions; if the affair
related to war» the most experienced commanders
were consulted.
To the offices of lieutenants and counsellors»
and even down to door-keepers of the council»
none but those of noble race were admitted ; and
there was no instance of any person being ap-
pointed to a public office» high or low» who was
not selected from the nobility ; for which reason»
great anxiety was felt by them to keep the purity
of their lineage unsullied. To preserve this rank
untainted in bloody it was decreed by the law;
that if any cacique or noble should marry a wo-
man: who was not of noble family» he should be
degraded tO' the cast of mazegual, or. plebeian^
assume the name of his wife, be subject to all the
duties and services imposed upon plebeians» and
his estates be sequestered to the king, leaving him
only a sufficiency for a decent maintenance in his
sphere of mazegaah
They had their penal laws also : the king was ^
liable to be tried» and if convicted of extreme cru-
elty and tyranny». was deposed by the ahaguaes»
19 I
who for this purpose assembled a council with
great secrecy : the next in successioD, according to
]aw, was placed oo the throne, and his ejected
predecessor punished by confiscation o£ all his
property, and, as some writers affirm, put to death
by decapitation. — (Torquemada, part 2, chap. 8^)
If a queen was guilty of adultery with a noble
person, both she and the accomplice were stran-
gled ; but if^ forgetting her dignity, she had crimi^
nal intercourse with a commoner, they were thrown
from a very high rock.
If the ahaguaes impeded the collection of the
tributes, or were fbmenters of any conspiracy, they
were condemned to death, and all the members
of their families sold as slaves.
Whoever was guilty of crimes against the king,
or the liberties of the country, or convicted of ho-
micide, was punished by death, the sequestration
of property, and slavery of his relations.
Robbers were sentenced to pay the value of the
things stolen, and a fine besides ; for the second
ofience, the fine was doubled ; and for the thirds
they were punished with death, unless the calpul
would redeem them ; but if they transgressed a
fourth time, they were thrown from a rock.
Rape was punished by death.
Incendiaries were deemed enemies of their
country, because, said the law, fire has no bounds^
and by setting fire to one house, a whole town
might be destroyed ; and this would be public
treason : therefore death was the punishment
awarded against. the perpetrator, and his family
was banished from the kingdom.
A simarron, or runaway from the authority of
his master, paid a fine to his calpul of a certain
192.
qnaotíty of blankets ; but the second offence waé
punished by death.
The stealing of things sacred, the profanation
of the temples, and contumacy of the papas, or
ministers of the idols, subjected the offender to
the punishment of death, and all his family were
declared infamous, i
They had a law which is still in use; when-
ever a young man wished to marry, he was bound
to serve the parents of his intended wife for a cer-
tain time, and make them stipulated presents;
but if they afterward rejected his proposals, they
were compelled to return the things received, and
serve him an equal number of days.
If these laws be attentively considered, it will
be acknowledged that sofne of them are just and
prudent ; others not very conformable to reason ;
others repugnant to nature, and may be branded
for their cruelty. In the last description must
be placed the manner of bringing the offender to
trial ; for, not having the privilege of appeal, when
he was brought before the judge, if he confessed
the crime, he was immediately taken from the tri-
bunal, to undergo the punishment awarded by the
laws ; but if he denied the charge, he was cruelly
tortured : he was stripped naked, suspended by
the thumbs, and in that situation severely flogged,
and smoked with chile. — (Torqueni. part 2, lib.
12, chap. 10.)
CHAP. V.
Of the Manners afid Customs of the Indians.
As the manners and customs of the natives form
an essential portion of the history of a country,
Philip the Second, desirous of having a complete
193
hiitory of these kingdoms, ordered, on the 23d
September, 1580, that a correct narrative of the
habits and peculiarities of the Indians of Guate-
mala, while in a state of idolatry, should be writ-
ten ; the present chapter is therefore devoted to
this subject.
The dresses of the noble Indians differed from
those of the commoners; as did those of the ci-
vilized part of the population from those of the
barbarians. It i» known from tradition, from an-
cient manuscripts, and from paintings still extant
in the convents of Guatemala, that the nobles
wore a dress of while cotton, dyed or stained
with different colours ; the use of which was pro-
hibited to the other ranks. This vestment con-
sisted of a shirt and white breeches, decorated
with fringes ; over these was drawn another pair
of breeches, reaching to the knees, and ornamented
with a species of embroidery ; the legs were bare ;
the feet protected by sandals, fastened over the in-
step, and at the heel, by thpi^ of leather; the
sleeves of the shirt ivere looped above the elbow,
with a blue or red band; the hair was worn long,
and tressed behind with a cord of the colour used
upon the sleeves, and terminating in a tassel, which
was a distinction -peculiar to the great captains ;
the waist was girded with a piece of cloth of va-
rious colours, fastened in a knot before; over the
shoulders was thrown a white mantle, ornament-
ed with figures of birds, lions, and other decora-
tions of cords and fringe. The ears and lower
lip were pierced, to receive star-shaped pendants
of gold or silver; the insignia of office, or dignity,
were carried in the hand. The Indiaps of modern
times differ from the ancients only in wearing the
o
194
hair shorty the sleeves loose, and bjr the oúiissáoii
Qf earrings and lip ornaments.
The civilized natives dress with great decency ;
they wear a species of petticoat, that descends
from the middle of the body to the ancles, and a
robe over the shoulders, reaching to the knees;
this was formerly worked with thread, of different
colours, but is now embroidered with silk. The
hair is formed into tresses, with cords of various
hues ; and they wear ornaments in the ears and
nether lip.
The habit of the mazaguales is simple, and
very poor-: they are not permitted the use of
cotton, and substitute for it cloth made of pita*
The dress is simply a long shirt, the flaps of
which are drawn between the legs, and fastened ;
a piece of the same «tuff is tied round the waist,
and a similar piece forms a covering for the head.
Some of the Indians of the southern coast wear
this dress ; but generally, in the warm districts,
they go naked, with the exception of the maztlate,
or piece of cloth worn round the middle, for the
sake of decency.
The Jbarbarians, or * unreclaimed Indians, of
Guatemala, unlike those of Sinaloa^ who go in a
state of perfect nudity, wear a cloth round the
middle, and passing between the fork. This co-
vering, among the chiefs, is of white cotton ; but
the common people make it of a piece of bark ;
which, after being soaked for some days in a river,
and then well beaten, resembles fine shamois lea-
ther, of a bufl* colour. They always paint them-
selves blacky rather for the purpose of defence
* Pita is the fibres of a plant twisted into thread, resemUing
that made from hemp.
195
against Mosquitoe than for ornament ; a strip of
white cotton is bound round the head, and in it
are stuck some red feathers. Green feathers are
the distinguishing marks of their chiefs and no-
bles. The hair flows loose upon the shoulders ;
the lower lip and nose are decorated with rings;
they carry a bow and arrow in their hands, and
have a quiver suspended from the shoulder.
In the care and education of their children,
they resemble the Lacedaemonians, Spartans, Cre-
tans, and the most polished nations of the world.
They had schools in all their principal towns,
both for boys and girlá; these were under the
superintendence of elderly experienced persons.
— (Torquemada, part 2, chap. 28.) These semi-
naries, indeed, no longer exist ; but the fathers
take great care in the education of their sons.
The women suckle their children until they have
completed the third year, without an instance
being known of trusting them to the care of
another person : they carry them slung at their
backs; and wash, grind corn, or perform any
other labours^ with them in this situation ; they
never protect them from the inclemencies of the
weather, ?iir, sun, cold, or water ; they seldom
have any other cradle than the bare ground, and,
at the best, nothing more than a little hammock.
As soon as they begin to run alone, they are made
to carry little burdens, proportioned . to their
strength. At 5 or 6 years of age^ they are taken
into the fields to cut forage, which they call sacat,
or to carry home little bundles of wood. As they
increase in years, the boys are taught^ by their fa-
thers, to hunt^ fish^ and till the ground, the use
of the bow, and other similar arts : the mothers
o2
196
iostruct the girls, from their teaderest years, to
grind corn, procuring for them small stones, suit-
able to their management, and in the other em-
ployments peculiar to their sex, such as dressing
and spinning cotton and pita, and to weave the
different sorts of cloth. They are accustomed to
bathe very frequently, twice or even three times
a day. The mothers are extremely suspicious,
and will not suffer their daughters to be absent
from them scarcely a minute. The young men
live at the expense of their fathers ; but whatever
they gain by labour is delivered into the parent's
hands. In this manner they are maintained until
they marry.
When a marriage is to be celebrated, on the ap-
pointed day, the priest of the village, the principal
cacique, and the relations on both sides, assemble
at the house of the calpul to whom the bride and
bridegroom belong. The priest then desires the
young man to confess to him all the sins of his
past life : the same is then required of the bride.
After having separately told all their misdeeds,
the relations are admitted, with the presents they
intend to make, and with which the young couple
are decorated. After this, they are carried upon
the shoulders of those who assist at the ceremony,
to the house intended for them ; where they are
placed in bed, and the door fastened : the mar-
riage ceremony is then complete.
Their mode of living is very rude and com-
fortless: they sleep on the ground, with the head
covered, and the feet bare ; they seldom have
any thing to raise the head, but when they do use
a pillow it is nothing more than a stone or brick.
Their repast is spread on the ground, without a
197
cloth.. Maize is the constant food. They soma-
times eat beef, or other meat, procured by the
chase; but it is in small quantity, and always ac-
companied with tortilla, which is a sort of thin
cake, made of maize, and baked on a comal, or
slab of clay : this, seasoned with salt and a little
chile, forms the ordinary food. They also make
balls of maize, rolled up in leaves, called tamal ;^
these, when stufied with meat and seasoned with
chile, are termed nacatamal. From the maize is
made a beverage called atole; of this there are
as many as ten different sorts, distinguished by
names in reference to its composition ; as istatole,
jocoatole, nectinatole, &c.
In their visits they make long harangues, re*
markable only for the repetition of the same ex-
pressions. If they take their children with them,
they make them keep profound silence. When
intrusted with a secret, the utmost confidence may
be placed in their tenaciousness ; as they will
risk their lives rather than reveal it. If a ques-
tion be asked, a direct answer is never given ;
perhaps^ yesy or »o, is the usual reply. They
place great reliance on the Spaniards ; and when
the latter become their guests, they give up every
thing to them with much cheerfulness and satis-
faction ; but of the negroes, they entertain such
dislike and distrust, that if they know one to
be gone in any particular road they have occasion
to pass, it is a sufficient reason for them to pro-
ceed by a different way. Intercourse with them
is troublesome, particularly with those employed
as couriers, who, as soon a« they have delivered a
letter intrusted to their care, take post opposite
the house of the person to whom it is directed,
where they will remain until they are dispatched
198
with the reply. As they find warmth agreeable,
they have a fire-place in their dwellings ; and
they delight much to bask in the sun, and bathe
in the warm springs. They are much addicted
to drunkenness, and have a propensity equally
strong to superstition : to particularize examples
of which might amuse, but the detail v(^)uld ex-
tend much beyond reasonable limits.
CHAP. VL
Of the Variety of Native Languages^ and the
Inconveniencies arising therefrom.
The people of the Mexican empire do not speak
the Spanish language, but nearly all of them use
the Mexican. In the kingdom of Maya, or mo-
dern Yucatan, the Maya language was the only '
one used ; and it seems that the other kingdoms of
America had each its peculiar tongue. It is there-
fore certain, that no one of the kingdoms of the
New World has so many different languages w
that of Guatemala; the following 26 being peculiar
to it, viz. Quiche, Kachiquel, Zutugil, Mam, jPo-
comam. Pipil, or Nahuate, Pupuluca, Sinca,
Mexican, Chorti, Alaguilac, Caichi, Poconchi,
Ixil, Zotzil, Tzendal, Chapaneca, Zoque, Coxoh,
Chañabal, Choi, Uzpanteca, Lenca, Aguacateca,
Maya, and Quecchi.
It will be easily conceived that much confusion
must have arisen from this multitude of various
idioms. It has been the object of the Spaniards,
at different periods, to diminish the inconvenience
arising from this variety, by introducing the use
of the Spanish language as much as possible. As
early as the year 1550, the king of Spain directed
199
aa order, beariog date the 7th of July^ to the.pro-
yincial of St. Domingo, directing him to use every
means in his power to encourage the religieux of
his order to instruct the Indians under their care
in the language of Spain ; and in this service it
was ejcpected they would exert their well-knowu
zeal and diligence, to procure the great advan-
tages that would result to the government from
their undertaking being successful : and, that his
wishes might be carried into full effect, he com*
manded that persons should be appointed to at-
tend exclusively to this object.. Instructions
were, at the same time, given to the president and
judges of the audiencia, to use their authority
and influence to further his majesty's intentions.
These instructions were repeated to the governor
in September, 1695; but it i6 no less extraordi-
nary than true, that up to this day they have not*
been attended to.
Many advantages would certainly arise to the
government, as well as to the people, were the
iLse of the Spanish language to become general
among the Indians. In matters of religion, the
latter would undoubtedly be greatly benefited
from the facility with which instruction could be
conveyed to them; the diflSculty of obtaining mi-
nisters capable of expounding the sacred tenets
of Christianity would be avoided ; and the zeal
of ecclesiastics would no longer be checked by
the uninviting labour of acquiring languages of
difficult atid uncouth pronunciation, and in which
the enunciation of vrords, with more or less force,
frequently conveys a different, and sometimes an
opposite, sigmificatton. In temporal affairs, thejn-
di^s :vvould also ¿e gainers ; as they would be
200
enabled to appeal to the corridors and subordi-
nate magistrates, in cases of injuries, or disputed
rights, without the intervention of interpreters,
who usually, either from n^ligence or design,
falsely represent the simplest facts, and thereby
delay, if not pervert, the impartial administration
of justice; after having duped their confiding
clients of as much money as they can, by artifice,
extract from them. The satisfaction arising from
having the means of thus presenting themselves
before the tribunals, having their wrongs re-
dressed, and seeing the delinquents punished by
the laws, would beget a confidence between the
governors and the governed, from which mutual
advantages must result. The commercial rela-
tions between the Spaniards and natives, as well
as between those of one nation and those of an-
other, would be greatly facilitated. It is true,
there is a strong resemblance between some of
the idioms; and the Indians of one tribe can un-
derstand those of another from analogy : these
instances, however, are not very frequent ; nor
can the intercourse be maintained with sufficient
clearness and precision, to enable them to traffic
with each other readily and satisfactorily.
CHAP. VIL
Proofs that the Kingdom of Gruatemala tms never
subject to the Mexican Empire.
AuTZOLy the eighth king of Mexico, although in
possession of an extensive and flourishing em-
pire, was ambitious of amplifying it by the an-
nexation of Guatemala; for this purpose he em*
201
ployed all his forces to bring the Tultecao chiefs^
who then' goveraed it, under his dominion ; but,
failing in his open attacks, he endeavoured to ob-
tain his object by other means. He sent a special
embassy to the chiefs, to treat for an alliance be-
tween the two kingdoms ; but this insidious at-
tempt was attended with as little success as his
more undisguised endeavours, for when his emis-
saries were introduced to the king of Utatlan,
that monarch would not give them an audience
on the subject of their mission, sagaciously al-
leging that he could not understand their Ian-,
guage. The ambassadors then proceeded to the
court of Guatemala, where they were received
with more civility and distinction ; but ultimately
dismissed without obtaining their object. After
this repulse, they next directed their course to
the capital of the Zutugiles ; but the king of that
country, who was then living on bad terms with
the princes of his own family^ received them with
unequivocal demonstrations of hostility : finding
themselves in danger, they returned without de-
lay to the city of Utatlan, from which the king of
Quiche ordered them to depart on the following
day, and to quit his dominions within 20 days.
These dismissals were accompanied with less than
usual courtesy^ because the chiefs suspected, and
not without good foundation, that the proposal of
peace and alliance was nothing more than a stra-
tagem of Autzol's to cover his real design, which
was, that his messengers should examine the
roads, ascertain the forces of the different nations,
and take note of such places as lay open to at-
tack with the greatest probability of success. En-
rico Martinez^ in his second treatise, chap. 22, and
303
9ome other writers, were probably misled by tbe
yauDtiog boasts of the king of Mexico, on the
return of his ambassadors, to state, as a positive
fact, that Guatemala was subject to the Mexicans
before the period of the Spanish conquest; they
have, however, omitted to adduce any arguments
to substantiate this opinion, or to refer. to any mo-
numents or authorities to give it probability.
There exist proofs sufficiently strong to war-
rant an opposite conclusion. Acosta (lib. 7, chap.
28,) asserts, that it was a practice of the Mexicans
to induce the inhabitants of all the provinces and
towns that they made themselves masters of, to
learn voluntarily, and make use of the Mexican
idiom ; or else to compel them by force to do so.
From this fact, it may clearly be inferred, that as
the language of Mexico is not generally spoken in
this kingdom, it never was subject to the empire
of Mexico. It is an admitted fact, that the Pipil
Indians, who are settled along the coasts of the
Pacific, from the province of Escuintla to that of
St. Salvador, speak a corrupt Mexican language;
but it is a fact equally incontrovertible, that these
Indians are descended from certain Mexicans,
whom the Emperor Autzpl found the means of
introducing into these countries in the character
of traders, in order to form a party for him*-
self^ that would be useful in furthering his at-
tempts at subjugating the kingdom. Besides the
Pipiles, there are other tribes who use the Mexi-
can idiom ; but as many Mexican Indians came
with the Spanish conquerors, it is more than
probable they established themselves in colonies,
and that these are their descendants. Although
it be admitted that the Mexican language is
803 "
spoken in some parts of Guatemala, yet as it is
not used in tbe {i4aces where the capitals of the
Tnltecan kings were situated, the fact that these
caciques never were subdued by the Mexicans,
remains unshaken ; for, had the contrary been
the case, these very towns would have been the
places where, in compliance with the Mexican
practice, that language would have been most
predominant.
Bernal Diaz del Castillo^ in chap. 172 of his
History, furnishes another corroboration of this
fact : he says, that at the time of the conquest
of Guatemala, there was no open road from the
kingdom of Mexico into the province of Chiapa ;
there were only narrow paths, in many places
very indistinct, and in others all traces of them
entirely lost; insomuch, that the Spaniards found
it necessary to make use of the mariner's com-
pass to direct them in the route which they in-
tended to pursue. The dictrict of Soconusco
was equally devoid of practicable roads ; the
historian Herrera (dec. 3, lib. 3, cap. 17,) says,
that " Pedt*o de Al varado began to open a road
through the provinces of ^Soconusco and Guate-
mala." As there was no road from Mexico to
Guatemala, it is not easy to conceive how the
latter kingdom could be subject to the former, as
there were not the means of keeping up a com-
munication, even between the principal places
of the two countries. How could the orders of
the emperor be conveyed to his vassals ? or how
could the tributes and contributions of the latter
be transported to the treasury of the former?
How could the numerous armies that must have
been requisite to overcome such powerful kings
' 304
as those of Quiche, Guatemala, and Atitaii»
march to these conquests, without leaving an
ample road by which to trace their progress ?
CHAR VIII.
Of the number of Provinces at different Periods
in the Kingdom of Guatemala.
In physical and material bodies, so many changes
and varieties are observable, that what to-day is
trivial, will be great to-morrow; that which we
view at this time under one figure, will shortly
present itself to our senses under another form,
and never remain long in the same state ; but bo-
dies politic and civil, are liable to still greater
variations; inasmuch as their very existence
depends upon the mutable dispositions of men,
even when those who govern are most inclined to
stability ; but as the human understanding is con-
fined, at best, to very narrow limits, and partial
views, it arises, that daily experience adduces
new arguments for varying the order and organi-
zation of tribunals, provinces, and kingdoms.
The kingdom of Guatemala has experienced
many of these changes, and, according to the
circumstances of different periods, new alcaldias
mayor have been created, or corregimientos
united : the number of provinces at one time iur
creased, at another reduced. In the geographi-
cal description it has been already said, that
there are now 15 provinces; in past periods there
have been as many as 32 : — of these, 4 were dis-
tinguished as governments, Comayagua, Nicara-
gua^ Costa Rica, and Soconusco; 9 as alcaldias
205
mayor, San Salvador, Ciudad Real, Tegucigalpa,
ZoDZonate^ Verapaz, Suchiltepeques, Nicoya,
Amatique, and the ínines of SL Andres de Za-
ragoza; 18 as corregimientos, Totonicapan, Quez-
altenango, Atitan, Tecpanatitan^ or Solóla, £s-
cuintla, Guazacapán, Cbiquimula, Acasaguastlan,
Realejo, Matagalpa, Monimbo, Cbontales, Que-
salguaque, Tencpa, Quepo, Chirripo, Pacaca,
Ujarraz, and the valley of Guatemala, which was
governed by the ordinary alcaldes of the city,
with the title of corregidores. The king ap-
pointed the governors to the 4 provinces that were
called governments ; and the alcaldes mayor to
the 6 first named alcaldias ; the remaining 3 al-
caldes mayor, and the 18 corregidors were nomi-
nated by the president of Guatemala, who gave
the appointments for two years: the corregimiento
of the valley of Guatemala was given, by the
corporation of the city, to the ordinary alcaldes,
who exercised the office alternately for six months
each.
Such was the distribution of the kingdom in the
17th century; but the population of the province
of Costa Rica being greatly diminished, the 4
corregimientos of Quepo, Chirripo, Ujarraz, and
Pacaca, were extinguished, and these divisions
united to the government of Costa Rica, about
the year 1660, or soon after, by an order from the
king. About the same time, the corregimiento of
Tencoa was united to the government of Comay-
agua ^ and those of Monimbo, Chontales, and
Quesalguaque, to the government of Nicaragua.
In the beginning of the 18tli century^ the alcaldias
mayor of Amatique and St. Andres de Zaragoza
were suppressed : a few years afterward, the ^
206
corregimientos of EscuÍQtTa and Guazacapan were
united to form the alcaldía mayor of Escnintla ;
while those of Atitan and Tecpahatitan became
the alcaldía mayor of Solóla. In 1760, the cor-
regimiento of Acasaguastlan was added to that
of Ghiquimula. In 1753, the alcaldías mayor of
Chimaltenango and Sacatapeques, were formed
from the corregimiento of the valley of Guatemala.
In 1764, the provinces of Chiapa and Zoques were
separated from the alcaldía mayor of Ciudad Real,
and formed into that of Tuxtla. Towards the
end of the 18th century, intendancies of pro-
vinces were created, when the districts of Realejo,
Matagalpa, and Nicoya, were aggregated to the
government of Leon, to constitute the intendahcy
of Nicaragua : the alcaldía mayor of Tegucigalpa,
and the government of Comayagua, became the
intendancy of Honduras: the government of So-
conusco, with the alcaldías of Ciudad Real and
Tuxtla, composed the intendancy of Chiapa. In
this manner the 32 provinces were reduced to 15.
Formerly the president of the kingdom had the
privilege of appointing to some of the alcaldías
mayor, and all the corregidorships, as just men-
tioned ; but latterly the king has reserved to him-
self the right of nominating of all these officers,
leaving to the president only the power of filling
up the vacancies, ad interim. Generally, the
presidents are invested with authority to fill up
all offices under the government; and in the city,
some ad interim, others permanently : they also
possess^ in virtue of the royal patronage, the right
of presentation to all the curacies. Since the
creation of intendancies, the presidents enjoy the
privilege of electing, as subdelégate, one of three
207
persons proposed' to him by the intendant, when¿
ever a subdel^ation becomes vacant. The sub-
delegations of the four intendancies are the fol-
lowing:
LEON.
Granada,
Realejo,
Subtiava,
Segovia,
Matagalpa,
Nicaragua.
INTENDANCIES.
CHIAPA. COMAYAGUA. S. SALVADOR*
SubdelegatioDs or Districts.
Ocoziogo, Gracias a Dios,
Olancbo,
Olanchito,
St. Pedro Sula,
Yoro,
St. Barbara,
Truxillo,
Tegucigalpa,
Choliiteca.
Simojovel,
Palenque,
Tonalá,
Soconusco,
Tila,
Istacomitán,
Tuxtla,
Guista,
Cómitán,
St. Andres.
St. Miguel,
St. Vinccnte,
St. Ana Grande,
Cbalatenango,
Olocuilta,
Ccrjutepeque,
Texutla,
Opico,
Metapas,
Usulután,
Gotera,
St. Alexo,
Sacatecoluca,
Sensuntepeque.
CHAP. IX.
Of the Southern Provinces of Guatemala.
THE PROVINCE AND INTENDANCY OF CIUDAD
REAL DE CHIAPA.
The native authors do not agree in their accounts
of the origin of the Indians of this district. An-
tonio de Remesal, in his History of the Province
of St. Vincent de Ghiapa and Guatemala, (lib. 5,
cap. 13,) positively asserts^ that the people of Ghi-
apa originally came from the province of Nica-
ragua. The Quiche manuscript, already spoken
of, says, that the Quelenes and Chapanecos are
descendants of a brother of King Nimaquiché,
208
who accompanied him from the city of Tula*
Nunez de la Vega, bishop of Chiapa, io the pre-
face to his Diocesan Constitutions, states, that he
met with certain calendars in the language of
these Indians, in which mention was made of 20
lords, or heads of families, frotn whom it appears
this people derived their origin. Their names
were Ninus, or Mox, Ygh, Votan, Ghanan,
Abagh, Tox» Moxic, Lambat, Molo, or Mulu,
Elab, Batz, Evob, Been, Hix, Tziquin, Chabin,
Chic, Chinax, Cahogh, and AghuaL Of all these
magnates, Votan seems to have been the most
celebrated personage, as a separate work is de-
voted to his particular history. In this he is said
to have seen the great wall (by which the tower
of Babel is meant) that was built by order of his
grandfather Noe, from the earth to the sky ; and
that, at this place, to every people a different lan-
guage was given. It farther says, that Votan was
the first person whom God sent to this country,
to divide the lands, and apportion them among
the Indians ; and adds, that Votan was at Hue-
hueta, a town of Soconusco, where he introduced
Dantas, and concealed a treasure. This treasure
was discovered in a cave by Nunez de la Vega ; it
consisted of some earthen jars, on which were re-
presented figures of the ancient Gentile Indians.
If credit be given to the manuscripts, it follows
that we must consider these regions to have been
peopled shortly after the deluge ; since Votan,
who was at Babel when they were building the
tower, and the human race was dispersed and
separated by different languages, was one of the
founders of the Indian population. By parity of
reasoning we must also admits that the languages
209
of tbese proTÍncés are some of the primitive dia-
lects, into which the Almighty divided the lan-
guage of the postdiluvian patriarchs. !^rom the
samie cause we shall be led to believe, that the
first inhabitants of America did not, according to
the most generally received opinion, arrive at it
by way of the straits of Anian ; for had that been
the fact, many years, and many generations, must
have passed away before th^y could have ex-
tended thence into these regions under the torrid
zone, at a distance so immense from the straits.
One fact, however, is beyond controversy, viz.
that this province was inhabited by a powerful
and polished people, who maintained an inter-
course with the Egyptians, as the sumptuous
cities of Cttlhuacan and Tulha, vestiges of which
yet remain near the towns of Palenque and Oco-
singo, evidently demonstrate. In the first, some
remaining buildings are objects of admiration, and
afford sufficient evidence that Gulhuacan once
rivalled in magnificence the most celebrated ca-
pitals of the old world. Stately temples, in which
many hieroglyphics, symbols, devices, and traces
of fabulous mythology, have resisted the effect of
time : portions of superb palaces still remain; and
an aqueduct, of sufficient dimensions for a man to
walk upright in, yet exists almost entire. Pre-
vious, however, to the arrival of the Spaniards,
this province had so much declined from its an-
cient splendour, that they found neither inhabited
city nor building worthy of their attention, ñor
civilization or polity in the inhabitants.
Remesal, continuing the history of the Chapa-
necos from the place before cited, says, that the
Indians who had migrated from Nicaragua, deter-
210
mined uppp remMoiDg od the bodft of Cbidpa,
and made choice of a steep moontatii with m
rocky sumnjit, n^ar the margin of a river, and of
very difficult access, on which they settled their
colony ; there they fortified themselves as strongly
as they could, resolving never to submit to the
dominion of the Mexicans. When the empire o#
the latter was overthrown, the Indians of Chtapa,
in the name of themselves, and of the nationsr oí
the Zoques, Celtales, and Quelenes, whom tbey
had brought under their subjection by force,
niade an ofier to Cortes of acknowledging them-
selves vassals of the king of Castile. The his-
torian does not name the person who was de-
puted by Cortes to receive this homage; bat be
says the natives were soon disgusted by the con-
duct of the Spaniards, and revolted from their
new allegiance in 1524* As soon as intelligence
of this insurrection was bronght to Cortes, he de-
tached Diego de Mazari^os, with 150 soldiers^
and 40 horses, to quell it. The expedition was
joined by many principal persons, who wished to^
withdraw from the disunion which had then com*-
Qdenced in Mexico, and by a great number of
Mexican and Tlascaltecan Indians. Mazariegos,
by bis prudence and moderation, easily and
speedily persuaded the Chapanecos to submit;
and immediately returned to Mexico, but with-
l^e design of coming back to settle in this pro-
vince, to prevent future insubordination. During-
his absence^ the Chapanecos again became refrac-
tory, and the affairs of the Spaniards were placed
in a situation much worse than they were during
the first tumult.
Bernal Diaz del Gaatillo, ariauthor of veraoitsu
«11
áftd eatidotti^y lii^rrates the evetíté of this conquest,
m wÜítelr be says bé took a part, circumdtaíntially
do^ áiffiétent from the relation of ReeaeSal, as to
induce ú belief, éttber that tbe latter hbd been
úiisled by fali^ information, or that three revoltsr
took place in Chiapa, and tbe one described by
Castillo was distinct from the two spoken of by
Remesa!. Castillo says, that being in tbe town of
€rüazacoa^co with the captainy Luis Martin^ and '
other offieérs, Martin departed for [Mexico, to
have aa interview with Cortes, who ordered him
tcr take 30 soldiers^ an ecclesiastic, named Juan
dé Varillas, and all the inhabitants of Gaaza-
cOaico, and proceed immediately to restore tran-
qofHity in the province of Chiapa, that wbb then
iof a state of open hostility. With this force he
éetftírward, about the time of Lent in 1524 (but,
adÜfi Castilla, of the year Í am not quite certain).
After undergoing great fatigues they reached the
viHage of £stápa, 4 leagues distant from the ca-
pital. In thifi^ place they were attacked by the
Chli{l»necos, and a very obstinate battle was
fought, in whicb Martin, with 13 soldiers, were
vrounded, and 2 soldiers killed. Castillo says, tbe
Chapanecos \^epe the mo'st formidable w^^rriors
that be had seen in New Spain. On the following
day they éontinued their Biarck towards the city
df Chiapa, ** and we had not advanced a quarter
of a league," says Castillo, " when w^ met with
all the forces of Chiapa; the plains and hills were
covered iltpitb them, all well armed and decorated
with plunbes; ft was terrible when they joined
with us foot to foot, a«d began to fight like
furious liofts." The battle lasted a long time,
until the bopse being^foroied into squares, and the
P 2
212
iofatitry into solid bodies, to avoid the danger of
being broken, they attacked the Indians repeat-
edly, and finally succeeded in putting them to
flight. After pursuing them a short distance, the
Spaniards again encountered other formidable
bodies of the enemy, who, in addition to their
arms, were provided with long ropes» for the pur-
pose of entangling the horses and throwing them
down ; and^ in many places, they stretched nets
to impede their movements. The combat was re-
newed with great fury, 2 soldiers were killed,
and many wounded ; but the Indians being again
attacked by solid bodies as before, were entirely
routed. After this victory, the Spaniards ad-
vanced to a village near the river, which, although
deep aüd rapid, they contrived to pass» vrith the
assistance of the Xaltepeque Indians, in spite of
the obstinate resistance of those of Chiapa, who
were strongly posted on the opposite bank, and
continued their march directly to the city, which
they found totally abandoned. Martin now sent
to the caciques» and principal persons of the
town, to offer them peace ; allowing six leaders,
who had been made prisoners, to accompany his
messengers. After a short interval, some of the
Chapanecos came to him bringing a present
of gold; they endeavoured to excuse themselves
for having commenced hostilities, and promised
to return to their obedience. The Spanish com-
mander then dispatched mesaengers to the neigh-
bouring towns, inviting them to peace : these also
sent deputations to offer their submission to the
king of Spain, and shewed great satisfaction at
being released from the dominion of the Cha«
panecos. The Sfmniards found in the town^
31$
three prisons, formed of strong wooden gratings,
full of prisoners, who had been taken by the
enemy in their retreat : they were a mixture of .
Soconuscans, Teguantepeques, Zapotecas, and
Quelenes, all of whom were set at liberty. The
Indians of Xaltepeque and Istatlan, who were
treated as slaves by the Chapanecos, because
they had given assistance to the Spaniards, and
provided canoes for them to pass the river, were
liberated from the power of their tyrannical op-
pressors; and went afterward, with their wives,
children, and property, to settle at a place on the
bank of the river, about 10 leagues below Chiapa.
In the cues, or places of worship, many idols
were found, which Juan de Varillas caused to be
burnt. As soon as the conquest of Chiapa, and
such other towns as would not voluntarily accept
of peace, was completed, measures were taken for
establishing a town in the province, according to
the directions of Cortes ; but, on reflecting that
there were only a few Spaniards^ and, on the ,
other hand, that the number of the Indians, who
might not yet be perfectly satisfied under their
new masters^ was very great, Martin deemed it
most prudent to return with all bis force to Gua-
zacoalco.
CHAP. X.
Of the Foundation of Ciudad Real.
About the end of the year 1526, when intel-
ligence of the second revolt in the province of
Chiapa reached Mexico, the treasurer, Alonzo de
£stra;da, was made governor and captain-general
of New Spain ; and he immediately commissioned
Í14
Pí^ó de Mazariegps to p0t üin eocl to th^ tu-
mults ÍD Cbiapa. Thi3 oiboisr, accomp^Died by
many persona of rank, arriyed there ; and experi-
enced 80 much opposition from the inha|bitapt9,
that all his exertions to reduce thfsm to obedience
were inefiectuaK They intrenc|ifid themselyes in
strong places on the mountain ; which fqr som^
days they defended with extraordinary resolu-
tion and bravery : being at length exhausted by
fatigue and want of proyision^^ and seeing their
resistance hopeless, in their desperation, so many
of them, with their wives and children, precipi-
tatj&d themselves from the highest part of the rock
into the river and perished, that of the whole popu-
lation, but little more than 2000 remained alive.
Mazariegos permitted the survivors to descend
Irpm their fastness, and allowed them to settle on
the banks of the river^ where tl^eir village still re*
tains the name of Chiapa de Indios.
About this period^ Pedro Portocarrero was
. captain-general of the province of Guatemala, m
the absence of Pedro de Alvarado, and being in-
formed of the disturbances in Chiapa, conceived
it to be his duty, as being more immediate to that
district than any other governor, to repair thither,
and endeavour to restore tranquillity: he therefore
put himself at th^ head of a considerable force,
and advanced (not b^ing sent thither, as Remesal
says, by Pedro de Alvarado ; for that officer had
already departed on the 26th of August for Spain).
Mazariegos, however, having arrived before him,
and pacified the Iqdians, easUy persuaded Porto-
carrero tp return; but offered to such soldiers, of
the latter as qho$e to remaii^^ to divide the laods
hetwft^ tik^m wá bi^ own soldiiers^ vx equal pro-
216
poiiioMi as there were sufficient for 'the whole:
induced by these promises» many stayed with hirn.
Mazariegos returned with his troops to the
town of Chiapa; on the 1st of March, 1528^ he
oiarehed from it again^ and pitched his camp on
the plain^ about a league to the eastward^where, by
the assistance of the Indians, huts were construct-
ed with branches of trees, &c. for their quarters:
three days afterward, the commander assembled
the principal officers df his little army, and ex-
plained to them^ that his object in forming this
encampment, was the preservation of what had al-
ready been gained by so much laboíur and fatigue :
that he intended this only as a temporary situa-
tion, until another, which would afford greater ad-
vantages, could be found; and as captain-general
of the province, he designed to give the name of
Villa Real to the new town, in honour of his na-
tive^ place, Ciudad Real, in Spain. He then ap-
pointed Luis de Luna, and Pedro de Horozco, to
the office of alcaldes ; Pedro de Estrada, Fran-
dsco Gil, Francisco de Lintorne, Alonzo de Agui-
lar, Francisco de Chaves, and Bernardino de Co-
ria, to that of regidors; Christoval de Morales,
major-doteo ; Juan de Porras, procurator ; and
Antonio de la Torre, alguacil mayor. On the 6th
of March, in a council composed of the foregoing
neadbers,. among, many other things, it was deter-
itoiiied to issue a proclamation, that persons who
wished to became freemen of the intended town,
night enter their names in the óoundl-book, which
jdiould entitle them to eiijoy all the liberties and
franchites peculiar to freemen;. In another, held
on tbel4thof March, the commander, the alcaldes,
ted pegiddrs, entared ther nam^ as freemen,^^aad
ál6
bound themselves, by an engs^ement, to reside in
the town : the alguacil mayor, the major-domo,
and others, to the number of 40, immediately
afterward did the same.
The formalities of founding the new town being
thus concluded, the next requisite steps were to
give it a material existence. On the 31st of March,
1528, the army being drawn up on a large plain^
called by the Indians Gueizacatlán, the spot
where the present Ciudad. Real stands, the go-
vernor's lieutenant, the alcaldes, and regtdors, re-
presented to the assembly, that as the place where
the town had been provisionally established was
not, from its hot and unhealthy climate and mar-
shy situation, well calculated to ensure either per-
manence or increase^ it became necessary to re-
move to another, where the requisite local good
qualitieii could be found ; and that after careful
examination of the surrounding country, the plain
of Gueizacatlán presented all the advantages that
could be desired ; the climate was temperate and
healthy, the soil dry and fertile, with a river, and
springs of excellent water, meadows, and fine pas-
ture lands for grazing cattle, and mountains co-^
vered with wood. On this spot, therefore, they
determined to found Villa Real de Chiapa ; the
great square, the streets, the church, town-house,
and several residences for the citizens, were then
marked out; the pillory was ordered to be erected
in the square, and a gallows on the summit of a
hill: thus with~ all judicial etiquette the town
was founded. On the. following days, lands were
distributed to the inhabitants. On the 22nd of
August, they began to assign lots of ground to the
army, in proportions of 600 feet in length by 300
217
in breadth, to each horsemao^ and Imlf that quan-
tity to the foot soldiers.
In the year 1529» the royal audiencia of Mexi-
co sent Don Juan Euriquez de Guzman to fill
the office of alcalde mayor, with power to inquire
into the administration of Mazariegos : this func-
tionary excited great dissatisfaction among the
inhabitants, by taking from the conquerors the
rewards that had been bestowed on them, and
conferring the same upon those whom he had
brought with him from Mexico ; he even deprived
Mazariegos himself of the village of Cbiapa : the
latter immediately quitted the province, and pro-
ceeded to Mexico. So great was the ill-will of
Guzman towards Mazariegos, that to display his
enmity to him, he attended a council on the 21st
July, 1529, and persuaded the members to change,
by a- public act, the name of the town from Villa
Real to that of Villa Viciosa ; the latter, however,
was only used 2 years: for, in 1531, at a council
which sat on the 11th of September, the place was
spoken of as the town of St. Christoval de los
Llanos. At what precise time, or from what cause,
this name was adopted, is now unknown, because
several leaves of the book, containing the minutes
of council at this period, have been lost or de-
stroyed. By an edict, dated 7th July, 1536, the
Emperor Charles the Fifth ordered the name to
be changed to Ciudad Real, aitd granted to it all
the honours and privileges of a city.
The inhabitants of this[ city carry (he royül
standard in grand procession on the day of St*
Christopher, its patron ; how this ceremony origi-
nated, is not now known. Many of the old coun-
cil records of the city shew that the original found-
818
«a displayed much afieeted, if bat little real
piety, with their bravery and fierceness; on the
3 Jst of May, 1532, there is an order for the pay-
ment of tithes ; another of 30th of June, 1528,
oommands notice to be given to the curate, of the
city to celebrate mass every day» and in default of
so doing, his appointed salary would be stopped.
On the 1st of June^ 1537, a series of wdinances
ivas promulgated; one of which prohibited the
employment of Indians iu any kind of labour on
Sundays, and principal holidays, under a penalty
of three dollars ; another inflicted a fine of ten
dollars upon every citizen who should absent
himself during the celebration of Easter ; another
imposed a fine of three dollars upon every Spa*
niard found out of church after the gospel had
bi^n read at mass. The records furnish many
regulations for promoting the cleanliness and
good government of the town, that are very well
worthy of being imitated in modern times; on
the 2dth of May, 1528, it was ordered that any
person driving mares, colts, or bogs, through the
streets, should forfeit a gold dollar, towards the
expense of building the church, or the animals to
be confiscated ; on the 30th of Jane, every person
was forbidden from throwing any kind of filth into»
the streets, under penally of a gold dollar ; on the
23d of August, all persons were authorized to kill
any pigs they might discover in the maize-fidd»
belonging to the Indians. A ve^y usefol order
wa^ issued on the 4th of January, 1539, for the in-
struction of Indians ; every person who held' a
public employment was obliged to have the mafe
childt*en of the Indian chiefs, residing within hi»
jnriisdiction, brought to his houee for the purpose
«19
ofhmg iiiitfated itt tbo /daetriQas b( the Chn^t^P
religion. Mao|r other orders, eqqally jqdiciop«
and beneficial, might be cited.
CHAP. XL
Tl^e District of Soconusco.
fuE first regioo of this kingdom, into which
Pedro de Alvarado penetrated, and the firat In-
4Í9Ln villages that were reduced by him to the
Spanish dominion, were those of Soconusco.
This district, which in the present day is so much
neglected, was, in former times, one of the rn^at
popplous and opulent of the kingdom ; the cocoa
produced in it isi still considered superior to that
of any other place in (he world, and is pref^r^d
for the consumption of the royal household. The
ancient capital was the large town of Soconusco
(ftiom which the province took its name), situaited
between the villages of St. Domingo de Escuintla
and Acacozagua. Besides the Indian population,
it was the residence of about 200 Spaniards ; but
upwards of two centuries Ymve now elapíied since
this extensive towo fell to c|écay, and was eotidrely
abandoned: the same fate has attended many
other villages of the district. Previoua to the
province of Soconusco being annexed to the in-^
tendancy of Ciudad Real, it was distinguished
as a government, a title given to the largest pro-
vinces only, and which suffic^tly shews the es^
timation in which it was held.
Like the rest of the kingdom, Soconusco vras
under the jurisdiction of the royal audiencia of
Mexico, aud> even after tjjie establishment oC that
320
of the coefioes of Guatemala and Nicaragua, it
remained in the Mexican district until 1553,
M^hen by an edict, dated 20th of January, it was
annexed to the royal chancery of Guatemala.
When this court was transferred to the city of .
Panama, Soconusco reverted to the audiencia of
Mexico; but another edict on the 25th of January,
1569, restored it to Guatemala. It is most pro-
bable, that, in the spiritual concerns of the pro-
vince, it was at first, as well as Ciudad Real,
within the diocess of Tlascala, but as soon as the
bishoprick of Guatemala was created, it was trans-
ferred to that diocess : Remesal mentions (lib. 6,
cap. 13,) having seen there chalices and other
utensils of silver, bearing the arms of Marroquin,
bishop of Guatemala. On the petition of Pedro
de la Peña^ bishop of Yerapaz, the supreme coun-
cil of the Indies was induced to place the districts
of the Sierra de Sacapulas, Saloma, Sacatepe-
ques, and Soconusco, within his diocess; but Phi-
lip the Second, on the representation of the pro-
curator of the city of Guatemala, rescinded the
determination of the council, and ordered the
same districts to be rostored to the bishoprick of
Guatemala : this took place about the year 1564.
The bishop of Chiapa, Pedro de Feria, having
explained^ in a very satisfactory manner, that the
province would derive considerable advantages
from being united to his jurisdiction, the transfer
was ordered in 1592, when Andres de Ubilla was
consecrated bishop of Ciudad Real : this edict ar-
rived at Guatemala in 1596, and from that period
Soconusco has belonged tojhe diocess of Chiapa.
In 1700, the Licentiate Francisco de la Madriz,
a fugitive from New Spain, came into the pro-
221
vhice, and speedily excited the inhabitants to re-
volt. Gabriel Sanchez de Berrospe, then go-
vernor of Guatemala, sent the oidor, Pedro de
Eguaras Fernandez de Yxas, to appease the tu-
mult, and use every exertion to seize La Madriz :
for this purpose, the oidor was appointed the cap-
tain-general's lieutenant, and had a competent
number of troops^ well provided with military
stores, placed under his command. This forcé
was at first repulsed by the rebels ; but in a sub-
sequent attack M adriz, and his accomplices were
compelled to seek safety by flight, and the peace
of the province was Restored. In this expedition,
the principal officers of the army were Juan An-
tonio Dighero, Juan Ignacio de Uria, and the ad-
jutant-general Pedro de Iturbide y Azcona.
CHAP. XII.
Recanquest of the Province of Tzendales.
This event has already been briefly alluded to
in a former chapter ; but on reflecting that it is a
portion of the history requiring a little more ex-
tension, we shall endeavour to give a more circum-
stantial narrative of it, without entering too mi*
nately into particulars.
In the year 1712, the Indians of the 32 Tillages
in the province of Tzendales having conceived a
violent dislike to the Spaniards, determined to
expel them from the territory ; for this purpose
they assembled at the village of Concicc, with a
resolution to destroy every individual who did
not belong to their nation. Nicholas Golindres,
Marcos de Lambarú^ Simon de Lara, and Juan
Torres^ all 'Mko)a^ing to the ordeif of Donmiioanir/.
besides many other ecclesiwticsi were put to cruel
deaths : they afeandoúed the tenets of Christianity^
and resumed all their ancient Pagan rites. The
greattesf animosity of these exasperated Indians,
was directed against the inhabitants of Cindad
Real; animated by the desire of vengeance, they
advanced within 6 leagues of it, and entamped a*
the village of Giust^n. The inhabitants beings
without sufficient force to Resist an tnftirtated
body of 15,000 savages, with much probability of
success, determined however to make the best
dispositions in their pow^ for an obstínate dé^
fente,^~courage and superstition are not inconi>^
patible with each other ; they therefore addressed
solemn prayers to their saints for' aAsistance^ and
fighting bravely^ were able, though their number
was small, to repel the attacks of the enemy until
the captain-general arrived witb a body of troops,
^o rescue them from the impending danger ; by
this reinforcement the Ibdianá were attacked, a
decisive victory obtained ^ over them, and soon
afterward peaoe ^as completely restored- This
success being achieved with very t^iflinglloss> was
gratefuUy attributed to the miraciilous ntitarpost-
tion of the divinte hierarchy ; btrt the cáptaití-
general, Don Torribio Cosio, transmitted aá íw^
eount of bis' operations* to the kkifg of Sfwainy in
which be assigned' mo^e probable causes of the
fertimate réslsát^ the afikir ^as conéídered of so
mvtch importance, that tke king oú the- 9th of
Peoember, 1713, returned his thanJssforthe zeal
that had been shewn in suppressing this dariger-^
OUS' tunbuH, aieGbmf)anied bymai^ks of his rbyal
&voür to Don Juan Alfvaréz de Toledo, M^bopi
of Chiapai to t^e oidor Dott tMego BaSos^ to' the
atiditor of the war department^ and to otfae?
persons whose exertion» had given success (o the
expedition. In another coromnnicartiont addresseiJb
to the captain-general, on the 24th of Aprils 1714^
containing his majesty's approbation of ^hat ha»d
been so ably executed, he was pleased» to add^
** and in token of my satisfaction with your ex^-
^^ns, I think it right tO' confer upon^ yon th^
hononf of a title of Castile for ybursdf add yonV
fanniy.'' The governor was ferther charged to'
protide^ those, who had contributed by their
c^rts to the victory on^ this inlportlMit day, withi
poMie employments* m speedily as possible»
Bononrs and emoluments were not yet exhausted;
for by another order of February 24^ 1715, the
king commanded that as the first victory, by
which the Spanish artns opened' the way to a^
complete reduction of the revolted plfovinces^
was obtained on the 2l8t of Noveltobw, the day
of the p^sentation of the Holy Virgin, the same^
was to be annually observed in the cathedrals of^
Guat^n^Ia and Ciudad Real;* asa high festival
and solemn thanksgiving; the expenses of which ^
were to be defrayed out of the royal revenues : w
consequence of this mark of peculiar £atirour, the
fi^stival has^ been evw since celebrated with* all
possible splendour.
CHAP. xni.
Of tie first E$tahUshmentf and Progress of the
Pipil Indians on the Coast of the Pacific Oeeant
AtJTZOL, the 8th king' of Mexico, having been*
repulsed in hi8 attempt to subdue' the powerñil'
324
nations of the Quichés^ Kácbiquels» Mam»,
Tzendals, Quelenes, and Sapotecas, by force, en-
deavoured to accomplish his object by stratagem :
the commencement of his plan was to send a great
number of Indians, under the direction of a chief
and four subordinate officers, who were directed
to introduce themselves by degrees into the'
^ country, under the disguise of merchants, and
settle where they could along the coast of the
Pacific Ocean. By this contrivance he expected
to have a strong party ready to assist him, when-
ever he found it convenient to make an irruption
into the country : his death, however, put an end
to his designs, almost at their very beginning.
The Indians, who had thus obtained a footing,
were Mexicans of the very lowest cast, speaking
a corrupt dialect of the Mexican, with a childish
pronunciation : this circumstance gave rise to their
name of Pipiles, a word, in the Mexican language,
signifying children. In a short time these Pipiles
multiplied immensely, and spread over the pro-
vinces of Zonzonate, St. Salvador, and St. Miguel;
a fact proved by the great number of villages in
these districts, to which the Pipil language is
vernaculaV.
From the vast increase of the Pipil population,
the Quichés and Kachiquels began to fear they
would soon become formidable enough to assume
the sovereignty of the territory, they inhabited,
and therefore sought every opportunity of oppress-
ing them. The Pipiles on the other hand, were
not less determined to preserve their newly ac-
quired possessions, and maintain the credit c^
their arms ; accordingly they resolved, (but as the
Pipil manuscript, fol. 2, says, not without secret.
no
advice) to establish' a military force in the same
maoDer as had been prescribed by Autzol. It
happened, however, that the chiefs of these troops^
who held the supreme authority of the nation,
exerted it tyrannically over the people, by exact-
ing excessive tributes, and practising enormous
extortions. These were rendered still more galling
by the conduct of the principal cacique Cuauc-
michin, who attempted to introduce the practice
of human sacrifices, according to the rites of the
Mexican idolatry, and asan unequivocal proof of
his intention, seized some men, who were held in
high estimation by the whole community, for his
devoted victims. Exasperated by an act so atro-
cious, the people suddenly attacked the residence
of Cuaucmichin, and in their fnry beat him to
death with clubs and stones. After this mai*k of
resentment, they chose as their chief cacique,
Tntecotzimit, a man of a mild, peaceable disposi-
tion, possessing much experience and skill in the
arts^ of government ; of their own authority, also,
they deposed all the other chiefs, and reduced
them to thet>lassofalahuaes, or hesids of calpuls.
Tntecotzimit thus raised to the throne, and
finding himself highly respected by his subjects,
conceived the ambitious design of perpetuating
the sovereignty in his own family ; in furtherance
of this object be created a council of 8 members,
whom he selected from the nobles, admitting no
one who was not either allied^ or well affected to
him. These counsellors were invested with cer-
tain jurisdictions over the people, and he pre*
scribed long robes of particular colours to be
worn$ to distinguish them from the caciques and
other chief officers, the use of which was inter-
Q
826
dieted to every other raok. H« appointed a great
Dotober of subaltern functionaries, all taken froqEi
the class of the nobility, to carry into eff<^t tb^
orders of the senate. The first act (rfthis ^uprenn^
council, was to' relieve the people from a gr^^
portion of their tributes and contributions; hy
which means Tutecotzimit becamei popula?, mi
much respected by his subjects: his ambHioü
was now gratified without opposition^ a9 the
sovereignty was solemnly declared to be v^steA
in him, his sons, and descendants, according to
r^qlatfons to be thereafter establiahed.
This act accomplished, the next objecl was
to prepare laws for the good government of the
people ; the first deliberation was on the 9ubjiecl
of defence^ and Pilguanzimit, the eldest sod of
Tutecotzimit, wai^ appointed generalissimo, with
4 ministers of war as his council, to assist with
their advice and experience in all military ar-
rangements. The succession to the tíirone caoiQ
next under consideration, when it was resolved»
that on the demise of the prince, his eldest son
should ascend the throne; but, in the event of tha
latter not having attained a sufficient age for as-
suming the direction of public affitirs, the bro-
ther, or nearest relative of the deceased sovereigo^
on the election of the senate, should be raised to
the supreme dignity. As soon as the young prince
should arrive at the necessary age, the conned
were to inquire into his capacity for governing
the state, and promoting the good of his subjects :
if he did not possess the requisite talent^ for so
arduous a charge, the right of succession was to
devolve to the second son ; but, in default of ibi»
branc|)^ the council were to elect the next nearest:
227
Felatiye, provided he was adorned with the vir-
tues reqaisite for such a station, had distinguished
himself in war, and other employments, by valour
and application to the affairs of the state. Females
were excluded from the succession, it being
deemed incompatible with good policy, that á
stranger should obtain supreme authority by
marriage ; but this exclusion did not extend to
the inheritance of property, as lands, houses,
slaves, &c. It was also provided, by a law, ttiát
to all employments, either civil or military, none
but nobles could be preferred; and these were to
rise through the gradations of inferior officeá to
the superior dignities. Á code of penal laws wa^
also established. Robbers were punished by per-
]letüal banishment; murderers were thrown from
tte top of a high rock ; and to crimes of less
magnitude, punishments, conformable at once to
reason and public justice, were assigned. These
are evidences sufficient to shew the policy and'
prudence of a race of men, whose posterity, in
their present neglected and degenerate state, it is
the: Gusfioit) to call hebete, incapable of instruc-
tion, and barbarous.
CHAP. XIV.
The Conquest of the Provhices on the Coast of
the Pacific.
Pe0RO dé Alvauado penetrated into the king^
dom of Guatemala by the province of Soconusco,
where he had many obstacles to overcome, and
experienced great resistance from the Indians of
Tonalá, and'otfa^ villages^ of that district; haV-
q2
228
ing sul>dued these, and conquered the whole pro-
Tiqce, he advanced into Sapotitlan, now Suchil-
tepeques, which he soon overran, and compelled
the natives to promise obedience to the king of
Spain. His next route was to Quezaltenango;
Utatlan, and ultimately to Guatemala, where he
was amicably received ; being well treated by
the Kachiquels, he founded the capital of the
kingdom. In this station he remained some time
to (refresh his army, which, after so many severe
battles and unexampled fatigues, was much in
need, of repose.
While he sojourned here, emissaries from se-
veral caciques of the Pipil nation came to offer
their sut^missiou as vassals to the Spanish mo-
narch ; at the same time they informed him, that
the people of Escuintepeque, or Escuintla, who
were malicious and ill-intentioned to all the sur-
rounding tribes, would not suffer those who were
friends to the Christians to pass through their
territories. Alvarado required no other incite-
ment than thi» to attack them. He set out im-
mediately on this expedition, attended by some
Spanish troops, and a large body of Kachiquels :
his advance was laborious in the extreme ; for as
there was po intercourse between the natives of
Guatemala and the Pipiles, roads were unknown ;
and the diíScultiés experienced in clearing his
way were so great, that on one day he was unable
to proceed more than 2 leagues : but although
the impediments were numerous, and his progress
so painful^ courage and constancy so far pre-
vailed, that on the third night he succeeded in
pitching his camp near the large village of £scu-
injtepeque, without being discovered by the inha-
229
bitants. This night was dark, with much rain ;
and while the Escuintecos, ignorant of the ap-
proach of danger, were enjoying profound repose,
they were aroused by the call to arms from three
different quarters : dismayed by these unexpected
attacks, many of them fled to the mountains, but
the principal persons, and the heads of calpuls,
retreated to some strong houses^ which they bar-
ricadoed, and there defended themselves bravely
for a long time, wounding several of the Spa-
niards, and killing many of the auxiliary Indians.
A 1 varado, perceiving there was no appearance of
surrender^ after five hours of obstinate fighting,
set fire to the village in several places, but this
did not produce the desired submission ; he then
sent a message to the principal cacique, declar-
ing, that unless they immediately yielded to the
authority of the king of Spain, he would cut up
and destroy their plantations of cocoa, and fields
of maize : intimidated by this menace, they sur-
rendered and swore obedience. Alvarado re-
mained several days at Escuintla, and prevailed
upon the principal Indians to recall to their
homes those who were dispersed and wandering
in the mountains, and to repair the injuries occa-
sioned by the fire. During this period, several of
the other villages of the district, which was then
much more populous and flourishing than it now
is, sent deputies to offer submission.
Eight days were spent in these operations;
after which Alvarado left Escuintepeque with all
hiB force, now consisting of 250 Spanish infantry,
100 cavalry, and 6000 Indians of Guatemala,
.Tlascalteca, Mexico, and Gholuteca, and conti-
nued his victorious progress. The River Micha-
230
toyat WW the first impediment id hii) march, but
thÍ8, although with great diflSculty, wassarmoqotr
ed; by coDstructing a temporary bridge. Haviiig
crossed the river, a large body pf lodiaos of Ati-
quipaque adyanced to oppose him, and an ob*
stinate epgagemeot began, in which one of the
enemy's leaders wounded Alvarado*s horse with
a lance ; the general being dismounted, attacked
the Indian on foot, and killed him; Tictory re-
mained a long timé doubtful, but was finally der
cided in favour of the Spaniards. On the folio wr
ing day they entered the village of Atiquipaque,
vvhich they found entirely deserted : they had not
been long there, before they were again attacked
in it by another fresh body of Indians, who sus-
tained a fierce and protracted conflict : the Spa*
niards fighting at disadvantage while cooped up
in the village, found it necessary to make a sortie
in order to gain the open ground ; they were fol-
lowed^ by the Indians, who^ by this hasty move-
ment, were thrown into confusion ; the Spaniards
seized the favourable chance which this disorder
oflered, and by a well-directed charge j^cured
the fortune of the day. The enemy fled in all
directions, and AWarado pursued his march to
s^ttack Taxisco, a place equally as populous and
in^portant as the preceding one: to retard his
progress, the enemy had cut many deep trenches
in the way he had to pass, and artfully covered
them over ; these, at first, occasioned some loss,
and forced him to proceed with great caution :
they also formed several ambuscades, and as the
troops passed, they attacked and killed many of
the auxiliary Indians, who marched in the rear.
To guard against similar assaults, Alvarado di-
SSI
vided the cavalry» and stationed a part of it in
the rear to protect and encourage his allies. As
soon as the advanced division of horse arrived
near Taxisco, the whole army halted» and was
aloaost immediately attacked in its position by
three strong corps of the enemy ; one descending
from the heights of Nextiquipaqne» another sal-
lied from the village of Taxisco, and the third
came from Guazacapán. In this unexpected
crisis, it required all the bravery of the Spanish
soldiers, and all the skill of their indefatigable com-
mander, to resist the impetuosity of such a mul-
titude of exasperated and warlike enemies. Cou«
rage and discipline however prevailed : the di-
vision from Guazacapán quickly deserted the
field ; that which had descended from the moun-
tains was broken and put to flight; that from
Taxisco, being abandoned^ submitted, and the
town remained in possession of the Spaniards.
Alvarado lost not a moment in proceeding
against Guazacapán, that the inhabitants might
not have time to prepare for its defence ; but this
expectation was disappointed» for being the chief
place of the district, all its dependants and allies,
firom Nextiquipaque, Chiquimulilla, Guaimau^,
and Guanagazapa, had been already called to its
assistance ; and it was thus well provided with
the means of opposing a vigorous resistance; but
this immense multitude could not withstand the
steady resolution of the assailants, and was com-
pletely routed after a smart contest. Guazaca-
pán was deserted by its inhabitants, and during
8 days that the Spaniards remained in it, they
were unable to prevail upon the natives to return
and accept their friendship; the advantages
-232
gaioed in these bard-fought battles, were tbere^
fore of little use, and this district remained- un-
subdued until 1526, when the Indians, dispirited
by the many and severe losses tbey had sustained,
submitted to Pedro Portocarrero, the ordinary
alcalde of Guatemala, whom Alvarado, on his
return to Europe, had left as his lieutenant-go-
Ternor. A singular custom of the Indians of Gua-
zacapán, in fighting with little bells in their
hands, may be mentioned here, but all inquiries
were useless to discover the reason of this extra-
ordinary practice.
The army continued its march towards Pazaco ;
the reduction of which place was attended with
considerable difficulty, on account of its situation,
and the powerful support it received from the
neighbouring towns of Sinacantan, Nancinta, Te-
cuaco, and others more distant ; but more parti-
cularly from the large and deep river de Esclavos,
which intercepted the march. Dangers and diffi-
culties served only to increase the ardour of the
Spaniards, and they resolutely proceeded. The
Indians had recourse to all the stratagems they
could Revise to impede their advance ;. among
other contrivances, they placed great numbers of
what would now be called a species of caltrops
in the way by which the troops were to pass; and
the feet both of men and horses were grievously
wounded by them : the injury did not stop here;
for many of these points being poisoned, occa-
sioned, in two or three days, the death of those
who were wounded by them, with all the agonies
pf an insatiable thirst.
On discovering this annoyance, the Spaniards
left the route they were then pursuing ; and making
233
a detour, reached the Rio de Esclavos in another
directiop ; they passed itybut whether by fordiag»
or by constructing a bridge, is not now known.
This difficulty surmounted, they marched without
farther obstacles to the vicinity of Pazaco, where
the enemy was posted in great force, and defended
the approach to the place with such heavy dis-
charges of arrows, lances, and stones, as almost
made the troops despair of conquest. A despe-
rate battle followed, and both sides fought along
time with unyielding gallantry. At length the
Indians, ending they could make no impression
upon the ardour and discipline of their antagonists,
and having exhausted all their military skill with-
out reaping any advantages, turned their backs,
and fled in despair to the mountains. But this
victory did not entirely decide the conquest of
the district : for although some of the towns sub-
mitted to the Europeans, others, in strong force,
still retained their native governments and liberty.
Among those that sought for peace, was the
large town of Texutla, four leagues from Gua-
zacapán, which was taken possession of, and af-
terward served the conquerors as a place of arms.
Before the conquest, this was a place of great Im-
portance, and the government of it was intrusted
to three independent chiefs ; but after that event
it soon lost its ancient consequence, gradually de-
clined, and about the middle of the 17th century,
ceased to be the habitation of men.
The historian Francisco de Fuentes asserts,
that in this campaign Alvarado traversed no less
than 400 leagues of country : such a circumstance
leads to a belief, that in this single expedition, he
overran the provinces of Zonzonate, Cuscatlán,
234
iiow St. Salvador, and Ghaparrastique, or St Mi-
quel. But as tbat author -wrote the acoQuut of
these provinces ÍD the third part of his work (which
part was unfortunately lost a few years after his
death)^ there do not remain sufficient materials
for giving a circumstantial detail of the events of
this extraordinary expedition : the only informa-
tion at all connected with it, is to be found in the
records of the cabildo of the city of Guatemala ;
from which it appears, that op the 8th of January,
1525, Alvarado bad returned thither, as he was
present at a council held on that day. It must
indeed remain as a striking proof of extraordinary
perseverance and courage, both in himself and his
followers, that in so short a space of time, he was
enabled to subjugate so vast an extent of territo-
ry, defended as it was by such multitudes of war-
like natives; for at that period, the population
exceeded in numerical strength its present amount,
which would be insignificant in the comparison.
It has been already remarked, that the Spa-
niards were forced to leave some of the native
tribes unsubdued. One of these, that occupied
the village of Jumáis, being of a turbulent dispo-
sition, and always occasioning much trouble to
' their native governors, now found abundant oc-
cupation for the Spanish arms. At one time they
confederated with the people of Jalpatagua, and
at others with those of Petapa, and the neighbour-
ing places, by which they employed the troops in
frequent and fatiguing expeditions. A military
council was therefore called, to determine upon
the^ best means of depriving the people of Jumáis
of the power of future aggression, as the only re-
medy to prevent frequent losses. The result of
2S5
th» deliberatioB «as, to equip a force of 80 Spa-*
nish iofeiitry, 30 cavalry, and lOOOaaxiliary In-*
dimos, the command of which was intrusted to
Juan Perez Dardon.
These troops marched from Guatemala, and
arriving at the Rio de Esclavos, found both banks
of it defended by the Indians of the towns of SU
nacantan sind Esclavos. In this posture of afifiirs,
it did not appear to the commander a prudent
measure to attempt crossing the river, and have to
contend against the violence of the current, and the
force of the enemy at the same time; he tber^ore
quitted his position, and directed his course to-
wards Guatemala, as if in retreat, but doubling in
the rear of some mountains, again advanced to-
wards the river, and reaching it at a place consider-*
ably above the enemy's post, where it was quite
unguarded; he hastily constructed a bridge, by
which he crossed without accident* Qn his march
to the valley of Jumáis, he was attacked by a
strong body of Indians, who, after fighting some
time, retreated to a hiH, followed by the Spaniards :
this retrograde movement answered their expec-
tations; the Spaniards, eagerly pursuing, were
drawn into an ambush prepared for them — as
soon as they began to ascend the hill, they were
unexpectedly assailed by a shower of stones and
other missiles, from which they received much in^
jury ; these discharges were repeated in quick
succession, until the Indians had exhausted all
their ammunition : the Spaniards then advanced,
soon compelled them to abandon the post, and
established themselves upon the eminence.
Tonaltet, caciqueof Jumáis, seeingtbeSpaniards
in possession of this hill, sent messengers to Dar-
236
doD, offeriog to submit, and requesting the co«i-
mander to pay him a visit at his village ; but the
latter discovering the cacique was meditating aa
act of treachery, ordered the messengers to tell
him that his duplicity was plainly perceived. As
his stratagem had been disconcerted, Tonaltet
threw off the mask, and advanced witka numerous
body of Indians belonging to the neighbouring
villages, and those in alliance with him, whom lie
had assembled for the defence of his capital^ to
give the Spaniards battle, confiding in his num-
bers foe undoubted success ; his expectations were
disappointed, be was defeated, and compelled to
fly, leaving on the field a great many men» both
killed and wounded. The Spanish force took
possession of the village, which the enemy had
totally deserted : some prisoners were liberated^
and sent in search of the fugitives, with offers of
pardon and peace, but the messengers being dis-
missed with a peremptory refusal of both, the vil-
lage was set on fire; parties were sent in pursuit
of the Indians, wandering in disorder from place
to place, by which many prisoners were brought
in, and among them several caciques : it was de-
termined to punish the obstinacy of these persons,
by branding them as slaves, in order to deter
others from similar resistance : this being the first
instance of treating any of the natives in this man-
ner, the place where they resided was called Pue-
blo de los Esclavos (the village of slaves).
Jl3y
JSscu¿njtlcu,
r^!^i^y€^:^l^nA^dj^MLra^taj¿U^ rocK of
J¥Ui^^,^^M^^ a.rva.t^6cLrofXsth/.€u^otn^Za^
Üóef^unA ¿Tvmc ctncrrvaZ cLTtcii/e¿e¿ÓLdU ACcnA^
<2om^, artd^Oie óricLóe over Ut^rii/er cLeJSsd^cs
TTLKXAf he rayTLK^d. cus cun^ourp^ccícCi CtLTlOSl^»
1$V€ rocX^SolofOfCLstohQse^n. cU: ma>ru/ lecLOijues
d^sti^nce . The sujn^tujb ofit ¿s^ ¿rv sKaJ^e cumost
correct restm/flcLrvc^ ^ cl loiróe^ CrtjirtJC or chest ;
linÁwhatcKMecLrs tb 6e the "Y^dt, ¿s AerforcUecL
^ ^ C^Tt"»
TcUy hecn/TTLcuichy ICóhZhZrtóf c¿j^ eíCfter
J>rorrv au,QreoiteUoaMu>n^^tfy:s ij^sthtZe. 9r4^rúnv
rruM^Tuf t/^cixs afttrv cure <AhbaTerj.Í7, Ote eteoCrcc/
JltvLC4A^C9 crvudrccJ^lu ohserve<i, Co ^[r¿/(jeajO€Luvst
Us Svurfax^^ ¿n^ C^e ^e^tLervt tHu.rtcUr^s&rnvs
uia^ CUKe ptouczr tr^ QtCs hourt»
Ma. :S€irra. áe Ista^cufprCfte bcLrofIsl}ah<¿)has
qovernrTXffvt. Zr^, Ch^^ U€u:e h^ ^oÜú^QÓLhcs cur^
hiva^^nls vn. tKe yecursHSZii^ o^n^Vifi bvcOáUrvo,
i^l^^hrstrrvervUoned. yecLr^ 5 sKips^cuva. ¿n^t^e
tatar^/3» Thjtblcüc^ ¿^ KiohJU/ cUse^rvcrvo of
notice ¿rvi^<^orrvnLer<UaZ^oLra;ofu^^
tVCru corujervceru:e cltvcL cuiA/CLritouoe-fhrcarr^tno
^3ft
Í¿^Ue& th Che <ÚU/ of^ Guja£¿nuXj¿o(^^4A/ouJUl^rv€¡thl^
9¡f%c4AjUxÍhTS tb obtÓLCn/ all ¿R^ brrocUAJcUjons ^ Cfí^
<uftjun/ry cUf €3urrtjo€Í.er€tJCé T'nht^ tAjTitcK €y>hUcbbecon.^
"veuetSb ou Ixirhci - ccatr rí^uó es tó CfíjtLlot£^ of envóo^rACa, —
CéL cLTvobl^i/eUed, en/ /S'^fy 3t/ tív^^aócdor JÍjv¿crv¿o
cLe ScJba^cuTj ^r Pie puxfio^m wfñun^iottiTvo uMon/'
ouTrLcuót^ ^ 9om,e <ffjlltr€ídoroísmjQliumsse¿s ; a^
oÁbcATS bu CLTc offi^vcdf cUfCUme/vt cn/t^ kxUuZcÍ/o^
eUuHcbSfst of JcufxMÁJout^ €»f CKtkby^cir. ^%cnB¿? «X —
celZejtt cLTtfChor^óe^ €juel¿ shelter'eeL an^eveTtí ho¿f^ m
tfl^re cure TvecCfCer reefs nor sTvaJilorrs^ jg^mALtfve en-
¿farLceierfectltf^c^e ccrvóieobstf. Areá4>uht, witftí
^ or(> btmee^ c^ €Ux.rvnony^ ujoMAZcb ctffoT¿L irroi^9ZÍ9i\/ .
'tótht sh.¿^b¿Ttó } Aruüy for Pió cxfrvstrfxcEUn/ ofscLohf
<^ ^^OF%x:e Óiere cure m^a^rvu cUócble4^¿nZs, ffixíó
resjteotio sht^-hviUclitve^ üKe €LcUr€irt¿cL¿es cure ctf
SlÍLl ¿reaXkr ¿rr%^bortarvce z o^s tMJooci of ttvc óeslr
oujaJbLtu t^-fou,n.cL¿rv Uue i/thirLiZy ^ ¿n/ q u^cLrvtkXle^s
¿T%e,yJL<i.vusr¿hle:-for Pte^erlíUtt/ ofmelcuruJU ¿9 90
^retU^^ arvcb ils ^vco^cíy soóec€<Zc€Lrl€f ajSbcufiléd, ¿5 tf€é
órocuPi^ aftlrrvberj Pftct>t^ c^/er cüCrec is-fieUetJL, Che,
Toot vu'tlV'SertoL ovüt Sor ó Sh/aoC^ tfiojC^ crv ^^ecLfxr
Recome trees of corv^íaLercbhlo i^^t cLrtáUh/Bcóhjt',
Vhe c/ecboTS oLTe <rfarnjn/arv^^ ^^^ / ^errve of CHóm/
So l€Lr^e cLs r» exxseecL V^cUJioms cnfC¿rcumfer€ihe/B .
VAc ujoo¿i coOZetL ^Rlo de jfVL o^rícu^fLfseUorvtfor
m^cujl^jjti ¿n^ueru óreodtr €¿hvL7xájounjoe, GrdxjA^ es
S^ílt rrvore LloitÚfuJi'í-for, on^ ^very hojrt of tf€ls
coclS^j Ch-e óLCcu^ StooüS lu^^MJüTcct^^ttu cLrvdUffrofuseU/ *
\jt ¿s rrvujoK 9uht,r¿CT, for Pije manxvfaolüijre of co^es
anjaLom^rro/^^s^-biitfLe esfartb (^^en^¿2a/ Kusfrou^
rtchcuof^^AJufJ. '^iZchy cLnJbZcur ««re hoZH óoocL arhA.
Ghj^oLb ¿n/ thjt i/oXletf af ^urrvouC^^o-nJU/ Oi^ short dcs,^
tcLTVce from/ C^e bort. ireiókts of cocoüb- cLrvSL-
239
other articles of agricnltnral prodacet planks of
cedar, and caoba, or red wood, so much esteemed
in other conbtries for cabinet work, may be pro^
cared here to almost any extent. Notwithstand-
ing^^ all the inducements and focilities for carrying
en an important traffic, which this place offers,
but little success has hitherto attended the va-
rious experiments which have been tried ; and it is
found in the recorcb of the cabildo, that attempts
were made to take adran tage of these benefits as
early as 1580, 1591, and 1590.
The bridge oyer the Rio de los Esclavos is
the best and handsomest in the kingdom ; it has
been already described in the geographical ac«
count of the river, but the history of it will not be
misplaced here. As the river is of great depth,
k often happened that, in the rainy seasons, it was
so much swelled as to cut off the comraunicatioo
between the capital and the eastern provinces, to
the serious injury of both. To avoid tíiese incon^
veniendes, the procurator syndic, Balthasar de
Orena, presented a petition^ in the year 1579, for
permission to build a bridge over it ; particularly
representing that many lives were annually lost,
by inccmsiderate persons attempting to pass dur--
ing the floods. This request remained unat-
tended to until 1591, when it was renewed by the
syndic Gabriel Mexia^ and, on the 16tb of Ja-
nuary, Pedro de Solorzano was commissioned ta
survey the river. This service being performed^
and a report presented, a council was held on the
8th November following, in which it was resolved
to carry the work into effect, and to defray the
expense of it by laying an impost upon wine. The
cities of SL Salvador, St. Miguel, and the town
240
OfZonaÓDate, were ordered, by the governor, to
eontribute their quotas towards the building, as
they were, in fact, more interested in the com-
pletion of the undertaking than the capital it-
self. This important work was begun on the
17th of February, 1592, by the architects Fran-
cisco Tirado and Diego Felipe, acting under the
orders of Rodrigo de Fuentes y Guzman, who
was that year ordinary alcalde. Such was the
activity >Vith which the. operations were carried
on, that the bridge was nearly completed during
the year. It was very substantially constructed of
hewn stone ; yet the strength of the current, and
the overwhelming weight of the floods, in a few
years, so much injured some of the arches, that
the passage became dangerous, and, in a short
time afterward, impracticable. In 1626, Diego
de Acuña, president of the royal audiencia, or-
dered it to be repaired and strengthened. This
was done in a manner. so ineffectual, as to re-
quire a repetition in less than 10 years. In 1636,
the marquis of Lorenzana, the governor, on the
26th of January, gave to Francisco de Fuentes y
Guzman, full power to repair the damages which
the bridge had suffered; with this commission,
the alcs^lde consulted the architect, and they de-
termined to construct a bastion in the middle of
the river, which, by its angular point, would turn
the current more directly through the arches, and
prevent the large trunks of trees, often brought
down by the stream, from lodging against the
piers, and doing them injury ; as, by striking first
against the bastion, they would be precipitated
endways through the bridge. The whole expense
of this repair was defrayed by the city of Guate-
Ml
mala. Notwif bstandiñg tbe great altitude of the
bridge, the increase of the "welter i« so enormotfs,
daring some of the floods, aa to pass over the
bul wfarks;tbi& occurred in 1762, after aooiitiaaed
raio, on the night ofOxatober the tth ; when the ^cne
of the river ipras so ^eeá that it covered the bridge,
carried away the bal nstrades, and did other seri-
ous damage tcyit.
Amcmg Hie animals, se^ral are worthy of ^o«
tíce, «itbet for .their siize o>r peculiar properties:
sudi astbe dbtnta, the alligator, of cayman; of
bird^, tbe gaacamayo,^e lory, jand several otha^ ;
fill! deamptioQs of whicb may be seen in Alcedo^a
Dictionary, at the end of the fifth volume. The
warrior ants (hormigas guarreras), and the tepul-
cuat, a species of snake, have been omitted by that
aiithar» Theípcmér ate about: double tbe i^e of
the common ants, ianjd^^'^y^ moj^ by large bo-
dies^ m regolar array, like an army. They di^-
reel, their marcb iowarda tbe babitations, and
wherever they entidr :a boose they spread ai:l over
a»d clear it 480 effectually as not to leave a
sing^enrarm^ :i3eptile, x» vermin of any porft, be«
hiad ^Háem iwben they departs To the larger crea-
twrea, sucb a&49inakes, scorpions, toads, rats, &c.
tiieyjare formidabiefrom their nondbers; in attack-
ing these aninȇls, they adjiere 430 closely to their
bodies that they soon lull them, and devoimr them
to the bones. When they have clecinsed one house,
tbey qoit it and proceed to another, if any 4»-
jiugr be done tq tl^em wfaevi in the bouse^ they re-
veogpe it by bitiog^ or stinging the assailant, andim^
itediaAely. petreat, ieavipg the vermin uirtooched.
The anake éaUed by the Indians teptflcuat^
has 2 heads, I at each extremity; it can ad-
R
342
▼anee with facility in either direction, a;i'ithout:
t^rniDg; it is of a silvery colour, and varies in
size according to age; it voids the excrement,*
and engenders at the middle of the body : it is not
known either to bite or sting, but its mode of an--
noyance is extremely offensive; for on perceiving a
person in the act of relieving nature, it will, withv
extraordinary quickness, introducé itself into the
intestineci; for this purpose it extends itself incre-
dibly, and from about 4 inches in circumference it
diminishes in volume to the size of a common quill.
The remedy for expelling it, is for the patient to
seat hinqfself over a vessel containing warm milk,
the «mell of which attracts the animal, and it with^
draws of its own accord.^ — (Fuentes, vol. 2, book
2, chap. 6.)
A description of the vegetable productions of
thede provinces, that merit particular notice, ei-
ther for medicinal virtues, or other benefits they
offer to the human race, would extend this chap*
ter beyond reasonable limits : the cocoa of Soco-
nusco stands unrivalled ; añer which, that of Su-^
chiltepeques and £scuintla> is the most esteemed ;
this article is not only used for the manufactureof
chocolate, the CQnsumption of which is as gene-
ral throughout this country, as it has bcsconle
cpinmo;! all over Europe, but is also valuable for
affording .what is called the butter of cocoa, ao
^xcell^nt remedy for several complaints, whether
taken internally» or externally applied* The wtood
called Palo dé MiEiriá, yields a sap that is a valu^^
able medicine for healing wounds, dissolving tu^
mours, and curing tn any disorders.: Ttie'cia^
namon wood, so named fno^ the $trong resem-
bjance of its perfume to the cinnamon of .Ceylpci^
243
uut difieringfrom it much hi taste, which is bitter;
It is stomachic, and possesses many medicinal vir-
tues ; among them may be mentioned its efficacy
in quartan agues : it is also called Cascarilla de
Lóxa. The Ule tree^ from the bark of which pár
per may be made : Fuentes relates that, in bis
time, there were preserved in the archives of the
cabildo, several memorials written upon this ma^
terial. If the trunk of the Ule be pierced, a liquor
exudes copiously, which, being boiled, becomes
an excellent preservative of leather from being
penetrated by water: if boots, for example, be
brushed over with it, a person may pass tíirough
a river, or marsli, without his feet being wetted.
Tamarindis, cassia, long pepper, the root called
suchilpactli, scorzonera, ginger^ orejuela (a plant,
the flowers of which are used to flavour and per-
fume chocolate), and numerous other articles of
great value and utility, might be enumerated.
The species of fruits are numerous, delicate,
and wholesome, among which the plantain de-
serves particular notice, it is here called gordo,
but in other places banana, to distinguish it from
the other kinds of plantain; this fruit is preferred
for its medicinal qualities by the natives to many
others that are more known, and rank higher in ge-
neral estimation, such as the anana or pine-apple;
for delicacy of flavour it is superior to the pin^, the
guanábana, and the chicosapote or medlar ; for
teauty of colour to the scarlet sapote; being per-
baps more extensively useful than any other fruit,
it forms a principal article in the traffic of the
province. A description of it may be found in
Alcedo's ^* Vocabulary of the Provincial Words
of Am^ca ;** but some of its variouis uses may
r2
244.
be mentioned hejre :. ía the fir^t place it farai^es
a 8ttb8tailtial food, each fruit yielding a lai^
quantity of nutritive luatter, without skin, stone»
or other inedible part{ poor people eat it both in a
lipe and an ioimature atate ; but others only in a
mature state, as it then has a most ^neeable 0ar
your; dried in the son it has an exquisite tast^
^md is greatly superior to the diried figs brought
from' JEUirope ; it is also ea<^n boiled» r^a^ted, aod
áried with sugar ; and it furi>isbe9 the dbief mate-
rials for several kimite of excellent and savoury
Steves; finally it supjiltes the place of (uaize.
Fuentes (vol. 2, book h chap. H,) says, that the
plantains dried in au oven» then peeled and
pounded to a paste^ pressed into a vessd and
kept for aboui a fortnight, may aftervi^rd be dis^
solved in water and strained; thi^ liqiior will
make a sort of wine, not to be distiuguished from
that which is «called Ojo de Galio* The acuity
of cultiv^ing so valuable a fruit, and the great
«Imndance of it^ produce^ occasion the real wprtb
of it to be but ill appreciated, and it^ extensive
utility to be much njeglected.
GtíAP. XVL
The :f^&undation of the City of St. ShO^dor.
T^E city of St Salvador is situated in the an-
qient province of Cuscatlan^ which there is rear
son to b(slieve was conquered by Pedro de Ál^^
rado^ about the end of the year 1524, orjhebe^
ginning of 1525; in tjis expedition, during the
first mentioMid jcar, he traversed upwards of 400
leagues of country ; of the following year he ^pent
245
the greatest part in the city of Guatemala, as ap-
pears iVom the books of the cabildo ; and in
1526, when he set owt for Truxillo, he passed
through the proyince of Ciisc4tlan, which he pi^
bably coold not have done, had it not beeü pre^
viously subjected to his authority ; the date of
its conquest itiay therefore be a^certaiqed with
tolerable precision. A| varado, however, did not
réach.Truxillo, for on arriving at Cboluteca, ha
received information, that Ferdinand Cortas, with
whom he was desirous of having an interview,
bad embarked for Mexico; be therefore left Cho**
Intecaon bis return to Guatemala.^ In the short
hrt^-val of his stay at ^is place, and his re-
turn to Cuscatlan, he found that province on hia
arrival in it, in a state of insubordination. The,
troops which Alvarado had with him as an escort,
reinforced bjr some that had joined him under
the captain Luis Martin^ who accompanied Cor-
tes in his toHsome expedition to Higueras, were
soffic^t to restore tranquillity. On his arrival
in Guatemala, Alvarado almost immediately eip^
barked- for Spain, leaving Marcos de Aguilar
the chief judge in New Spain, and bis brother
George de Alvara<|o, his lieutenant in this kingr
do» during his absence. The new governor,
with a view of keeping in subjection the province
of Cuscatlan, which was one of the richest in his
govemm^t, determined to build a town, and
to give it the nawe of St* Salvador, from the
last battle* ty which the district was broiJgbt
imder the power of the Spaniards, haying been
gaitied;on the day that the church celebrates tbp
feativdl of tbetran^figuratiop, or tlip 6th pf August.
> The persons whom George de Alvarado sent
246
to establish his new town, were of the prin-
cipal families of Guatemala; they arrived at
Cuscatlan at the latter end of March, 1528»
and having selected a convenient situation ,
founded St. Salvador on the 1st of April fol-
lowing; when the officeris, nominated by thego^
vernor, entered upon their employments; viz^
Diego dé Al varado, chief justice, and deputy of
the captain-general thronghont the province.; Ah*
tonio de Salazar, and Juan de Aguilar, ordinary
alcaldes ; Pedro Gutierrez de Guiñana, Santos
Garcia, Christoval Saluago, Sancho de Figueroa,
Gaspar de Cepeda, Frañdsco de Quiros, and
Pedro Nunez de Guzman, ^regidors; Gonzalo
Ortiz, chief alguacil; Gaspar de Cepeda and Fran-
cisco de Quiros, visitors of the province ; Antonio
Bermudez, treasurer of intestate property; and
Luis Hurtado, procurator. The town increased
so fast, that in 15 years after its foundation, the
Emperor Charles the Fifth granted to it the title
and honours of a city, bearing date September
27, 1543.
In the year 1549, by order of the royal au^
diencta, Doctor Thomas Lopez visited the pro-
vince of Cuscatlan, and the city of St. Salvador;
in the following year, Thomas de la Torre made
a similar inspection by commission from Fran-
cisco Marroquin, bishop of Guatemala; these
commissioners discovered many existing irregu-
larities and malpractices, to which it was neces-
sary to apply a speedy remedy; and it appeared
to them that such disorders would be most effec-
tually checked, by founding a convent of the Do-
minican order in the city of St. Salvador. In con-
sequence of the report delivered by these visitors,
247
de la Torre, áccotüpani^d by Yinceete de Ferrer,
and Matías de Paz, was sent to carry that re-
coromendation into [effect; and in case of any re-
sistance to the measure being attenopted by the
inhabitants, the oidor, Thomas Lopez, was added
to the; commission, in order that he might, by his
prudence and mildness of disposition, be able to
overcome the objections of such as were ininiical
to the new establishment. By the end of. July,
1551, all difficulties being renooved, the commis-
sioners took possession of a convenient spot of
ground, when the building was commenced, and
carried on with so much expedition, that in one
year it was nearly completed, and provided wth
furniture, plate, and other orñanaents for the
church. This convent was declared to be the
fburth^in the province in point of rank ; in the
acts* of the first provincial chapter, held in the
convent of Guatemala on the 27th of JahuaVy,
1553, and in another held at the same place
on the 8th of May, 1536, it was made a priory ;
at a subsequent chapter held in Guatemala on
the 16th of January, 1790, thiiJ convent was ap-
pointed to falfil the precepts of the ordinafnce,
wiiich commands that in every province there
shall be one religious house, wherdn the consti-
tutions of the order shall be observed with the ut^
most rigour, without admitting of a:ny dispense;
tion ^whatever.
In the banning of the year 1574, a royal order,
dated the 11th of August, 1573, was received at
Guatemala, in which the king recommended the
building of convents in all places where they
might be required. In obedience to this rescript,
Pedro de Villalobos issued a royal, permission.
34»
dated ^1 fit of May, 1574, by which the protia'-f
cial of the FraDcidcaos was authorized to erect
coq vents of bis order, in the provinces Of Izalca,
Cnscatlan, and Honduras. Armed with tbia
power, Bernardino Perez, and sotne others of
the order^ left Guatemala, and after having esta-
bashed a convent in the town of Zonzonate, they
proceeded to St. Salvador, wh«e they were very
kindly received by the inhabitants^ and patroniBed
by the licentiate, Jofre dé Loaysa, who was at
that time making a tour of ifispection through the
province. A spot of ground wtts assigned to them
for a church and convent, which Were began on
th^ 20th of September^ 1574» with the nante
of St< Bernardino de J^a ; this was afterward
changed to that of Su Antonio ; and ití a chapter
held on the 1 dt of October^ 1575» the latter ^appe^
latioja was again changed for La Gnardiana*: on
th? Idth of October, 1577, Gomez Fernanda de
Cordova» bishop of Guatemala^ placed ^ the mis-
sions of St. Thomas»' jSt. Jago, atid St. Mark
Texaquangosi undier the superintendence of this
convent
In the year 1593, the order of La Merced at^
tempted to establish a convent in St. Salvador,
but they could not accomplish their desire until
1623.
The whole province has frequently been visited
by violent earthquakes, those from which it has
suffered the greatest injury, took place in the
years 1575, U93^ i6?5, 1656^ and 1798-
249
CHAP. XVII.
Of the Invqxian cfthe Province of St. Salvador by
Martin Estet^.
FoK many years after the conquest of the king-
dom, the boundaries of its several provinces were
but ill defined ;• and as the ambition and avarice
of men are not easily kept in restraint, each go-
vernor endeavoured to extend the limits of his
Jurisdiction, as far as be could discover any
thing to invite his rapacity ; particularly v^hen
the countries borderipg on his own district tempts
ed his covetousness by rich mines^ or other valu-
able productions. The attempts of the governors
of Honduras and Nicaragua to incorporate the
valley oí Olanche'with their respective goverui-
ments, are in this country vrell known; the rich
veins of gold in the valley were the allurement
wbicb made each of them aspire to its posses-
sioD. Pedrarias Davila, insatiable in his avarice,
enéeavotired) about the latter end of the year
1529^ to obtain possession of the province of St.
Salvador, ander the pretext of its being within
the limits of his government of Nicaragua. To
accomplish this object, he sent Estete with ^ a
force of 90 cavalry and 1 10 infantry : the latter
adraneed by the province of Chaparrastique,
or*. St. Miguel, just at the time Diego de
Boceas was occupied in quelling^ the revolt of
some Indians on the opposite side of the River
Lempa. On Roxas being informed that there
were other Spanish troops in the district, besides
those under bis own eonmiandy and the circum-
staonue appearing to him extraordinary, he took
«50
an escort of 4 horsemen and 4 infantry, and de-
termined to reconnoitre them. Estete's soldiers,
however, contrived to surprise him and his com-
panions, and made them prisoners. Some of the
Indians who attended Roxas fled as soon as
they saw faini captured, and gave inform^ticm of
it to his troops: these being but few in number,
and not daring to attack those of Estete, retired
to the town of St. Salvador, and sentadviqe of the
seizure of their commander to Guatemala. Fran^
cisco de Orduña, who was governor ád interim
at that time, immediately on rec€>ipt of the JntelU-
gence sent a dispatch to Estete, in which he com-
manded him, if he possessed any authority from
the king for entering the province, to produce it;
Jbut, if he had none, to retire from it i Having exr
pedited this order, Orduña imagined he had done
all that was required of him to do; the pepple of
the capital were of a contrary opinion, ai^d coiild
Xiot view with indifference the indolence of the
governor, in suffering that territory, which they
Jiad gained vrith so much fatigue, to be tamely
lost ; they loudly expressed their dissatisfiiption,
and openly taxed him vvith want of/ courage.
Roused by these clamours, Orduña asseanUed a
council on the 24tb of February, at which, be^
sides the regular memberi^, the ecclesiastic, Juan
Godinez, and several other principal persons,
were present. To this meeting he detailed the
ravages that Estete had ; committed in tlie pror
yince of Cuscatlan, and represented that he had re-
plied in a very iippr<>per manner to tbe requisition
which had been sent to him.. The members of the
council, and ot)iers preseat^ said they were well
aware tiiat the^ldiers of Davila h^d entered the
«51
province in a hostile qaanner, and without ally
\i^arrant from the king, had atteoipted (0 imit^
the province of jSt. Salvador to the gMFernmepI
of Terra Firma ; therefore; thejraqnired the|p*
vernor personally to visit tbe boundaries laC 4he
jurisdiction ; declaring, at the same tioM?, that
they were willing to attend him on the expe-
di^Dtt. To this Orduña replied, be was ready
to proceed with them ; but, as a force both of
horse and foot was necessary, it would be re-
quisite to issue a proclamation, to ascertain who
would offer their assistance*
On the 2d of March ^naother open council was
held, at which Orduña represented that no moré
than 00 men h^d tendered their services; but, if
they could increj^pe this force to 100, he would
undertake the expedition. The council perceiv-
ing the business would not admit of the governor's
dilatory proceedings, determined to nominate
Francisco Lopez to the chief command of the de-
t^chment,and h^ readily accepted the commission.
The governor, however, so far from promoting
the enterprise, proposed to the council, on the
following day, to wait for a reply from the royal
audience of Mexico. While tliÑe matter was in
debate at Guatemala, Estete continued his mar^h
to St. Salvador ; and, sis the population of the
place was small, he entered it without resistance.
He desired the inhabitants to receive him as their
captain and governor, promising, by way of in-
4ucing their compliance, that he would not de-
prive them of their Indians. This proposal being
rejected, he retired to the villi^ge of Perulapan»
where he established what he called the city de
los Caballeros, appointing alcaldes, regidors^and
253
other public officers. From this place he made
frequent excursions into the country, for the pur-
pose of pillaging and committing alt kinds of
depredations. As soon asiie obtained information
that the people of Guatemala were coming to op-
pose him> he abandoned his newly formed city ;
and having plundered the country of every thing
portable, he retired, taking away with him up-
wards of 2000 Indians. The Guatemalans fol-
lowed the invader beyond the River Lempa, when
finding his pursuers gaining upon him, he drew
up his troops in order of battle ; but not having
(Sufficient confidence in his soldiers to abide the
issue of an action, both he and his second in
command, Salcedo^ sought their personal safety
in a hasty flight. The men seeing themselves
abandoned by their commanders, offered temos
df capitulation to the Guatemalans, which were
accepted, on condition that all the Indians, and
other persons who had been captured, should be
liberated : this being immediately done, such of
the invaders as wished to return to Nicaragua
were permitted to depart, and those who chose
to remain were allowed to go to Guatemala ; 90
of DiBiviht's soldiers embraced the offer, and
joined those of Guatemala.
The prompt assistance afforded by the Spa-
niards of the capital to the Indians of Cuscatlan,
had a powerful effect on their minds ^ and from
seeing themselves so readily and effectually pro-
tected against the tyranny of Estete, who was
driving them from their homes into the g^ovem-
ment of Terra Firma, many of them became con^
verts to Christianity. The ill effects of this in-
vasion vi^re felt for some tim^ as great numbers
253
ofthfi lodians fled to the mountains, to escape the
severities of Estete ; and several villages in the pro-
vince of St. Salvador, and of the Balsam coast, re-
mained in astateof insubordination» the inhabitants
committing frequent acts of hostility upon, and
severely harrassing those who remained quiet and
friendly to the Spaniards. This species of warfare
contintued^so lou^, that Pedro dé Alvarado found
it neces3ary to reduce the aggressors to his áulho*
rity by force; be, tbereibre, prepared an expedi-f
tion against them^ under the command of Pedro
Portocarrero and Diego de Bo xas. These of-*
ficers exceeding Uie powers ivith which they bad
been invested, wished to place under their com-
mand the regidórs of the city of Guatemala; this
indticed the procnrator syndic to represent to the
captainTgeneral in council, on the 2^fh of April,
1533, that the regidors did not conceive tliem-
selves to be .subject to the orders of Portocarrero
and Roxas» the officers appointed by him to. con*
duct the war on the Balsam coast. On the repre-
sentation of the syndic, they were declared by the
governor exempt from the said authority; and,
by this decision, ^11 dispute was terminated. In
the^ records of the cabildo, of the 8cth of Jaanary^
153$» it appears that another revolt took place in
Cuscatlan about that time; and that the ay untar
miento, in the absence of the governor's lieuh
tenant, appointed Gonzalo Ronquillo to the comr
maud of a force that was «lent Ay quell it ; but
neither in the books of the cabildo, nor in auy ^f
the native authors^ is there to be met with any ai>
4:i>mt of the issue of these two expeditions.
354
CHAP. XVÍII.
Of the Cities of St. Miguel de la Frontera, St.
Vincente de Austria^ and the Town of Trinidad
de Zonzonale.
Many researches have been made to obtain in-
formation of the particular circumstances that led
to the foundation of the city of St. Miguel de la
Frontera, in order to give a concise history of so
wealthy a place; but from the deficiency of au-
thentic records, reliance must be placed upon de-
tails procured from the most respectable authority
by diligent and cautious inquiry.
The historian, Antonio de Herrera (dec. 4, lib.
7, cap. 5), informs us, that Pedro de Alvarado,
being in the city of Mexico, on his return from
Spain to Guatemala, set out with all speed for the
capital of his government, as soon as he received
advice that Martin Estete had invaded the pro-
vinces of Chaparras tique and Cuscattan. He ar-
rived there in April, 1530, about the time that the
troops from Guatemala had forced Estete to aban-
don the invaded provinces; and either, to keep
them in subjection, or to prevent the repetition of
similar indursions, he sent Luis Moscoso, an offi-
cer of experience, with 120 soldiers, to re-establish
peace in a certain province lying beyond the River
Lempa, by which it is supposed the province of
Chaparrastique was meant, and he was also or-
dered to lay the foundation of a town, whither
Alvarado ^ent persons whom be had appointed
alcaldes and regidors. It is beyond doubt, that
this was the town of Si Miguel ; in the fiVst
place from its corresponding in situation precisely
with that built by Moscoso, and secondly, from
V"
255
) period of its édtáblisbineut ; for previous tp
5 vear 1530, ibere is no record or mention oi
1 J town beyiMBkl the Aiyer Lempa ; whereas, tti^re
is anéqnÍTO€af proof that in 1531^ the towo of St.
Miguel was in existence ; for in the s^^&md book
of tbe records of Guatemala, a miniStr is insertedy
wbkh says, that at a council held on the 26th of
l0ne, the procurator of the town of St. Miguel,
and those of the town of St. Salvador, presented
themselves,. and delivered their powers to Gabriel
de Cabrera, the: ordkiáry alcalde, who was going
in the capacity of af^ent from the city of Guate-
mátalo the court of Spain to act for them also.
The town of Sf. Miguel was raised to the rank of
a city, but at what period this honour was con-
ferred up&n it, is uncertain. There is an entry in
the rédúrds beforementionéd, under date of Au-
gust 2%: 16S3, book 7th, fol. 190, by which it ap-
pears that it then had this title ; for mention is
fiieretmade of the " monastery of the city of St.
Jago, and. those of the cities of St. Salvador, and
St. .IVIiguel." The general and extraordinary
cortes by a decree. of July 15, 1812, granted to
it the additional designation of Muy noble y muy
leal (most noble and most loyal). The ayunta-
miento, and the amount of population of this city,
have been already mentioned in a former part; it
was formerly much more populous than it now
is— rindeed the commercial advantages it enjoys
would render it one of the most numerously peo-
pled places in the kingdom ; but the insalubrity
of the climate keeps down the number of the na-
tive: residents, and deters others from taking up
vtbeir abode in it. .
The town of Trinidad de Zonzonate. The precise
256
year wheii tbe foundatíoD of this town was laid,
canoot be ascertained ; as the original protocols
and registers were destroyed in a cooflagratioo»
almost geoerali that took place in January, 1^64.
Id 1572, however, it had become a place of conse^
quence, and the ayuntamiento, a body of some
importance ; as it then applied to the sopreoae
gOfemmentof the kingdom, by a petition, pra3rÍDg
that the ordinary alcaldes might be invested witk
tbe privilege of exercising their anúiority through*
out the jurisdiction of the alcalde mayor of Zonzo^
natew The president, Antonio Gonzalez, remitted
this petition to the council of GaateanUa, but it W9b
rejected by that body on the 0th February, 1673.
-^Lih. 5, tie Cab. £oL 27.) Notwithstanding the
refusal of the ay uotamiento, the governor tfaonght
proper, by his sole authority, to concede this eK»
traordinary prerogative to tbe petitioners. T%e
town continued to increase, and its cOfiHueroial
prosperity advanced rapidly, favoured as it msM
by an advantageous position near the port of Áisa.^
J4itla» the rebdezvous of the ships coming from
Petu^ Here tibere is a royal treasury^ and die
offioer presiding over it enjoys the same privikges
as those peculiar to tbe same rank m Gnatemato.
Tlie city of SL Vinqeote ide Austria, or hare»-
sana, was begun in: the year 1635, when 60 i8psh
wieh families, whose estates lay in the distriot,
«^eed to 4ii^ÉB and form .a n Ufoge, to wUck they
giM^e the <appeUatieo isf St^ Viiieetite4e Lorienza-
m. iUKTut tkte yiear 1058^ tbe 4nhabitent8 eoii<M-
edr tíom privil^pes of a towm; imA in return for it
^esed a dcmattve of^ 1600 doilars^to 4he king,
with a fe.rther contribution of 3600 dollars to^warás
the «^pointmeDits of tiie standard-bearer, aguacil
257
mayor, provincial alcalde^ receiver-general, 2
r^idors, and a secretary. The royal audieiicia,
xvbich governed the kingdom at this period, ac-
cepted the gift in the king's name, assented to the
request, and granted the title of Villa de St. Vin-
cente de Austria to the village of St. Yincente de
Lorenzana; which distinction was first publicly
applied to it on the 20th of March in the same
year: the official appointments were confirmed by
Philip the Fourth, with a proviso that the secretary
was not to have a seat in the council. The ayun-
tamiento is composed of 9 individuals, viz. 2 al-
caldes and a procurator syndic, elected annually,
and 6 regidors. The office of receiver-general
having been latterly abolished in all cabildos, by
a royal order, a regidor has been added in his
stead. The general and extraordinary cortes, by
a decree of the 15th July, 1812, confirmed the
title of -city, which the regency of the kingdom had-
granted to this town on the 18th of June of the
same year. In this city there are several distin-
guished families, of nobility; among the founders
were those of Don Alonzo Vides de Alvarado, a
descendant of Gonzalo, and George, brothers of
Pedro i de Alvarado. it is the custom of this
place for all who possess houses in it to pay 4
reals a year towards the funds of the cabildo ; but '
Spaniards are, exempt from the contribution, in
consideration of their ancestors having bought the
groitnd on which it is built.
, The ayuntamiento of the city has a jurisdiction
extending westward to the River Giboa, on the
north and east to the River Lempa, and to the
shores of the Pacific on the south. Within this
district is the village of Sacatecoluca, which has
S58
never beep within the jurisdiction of dt. VíH'-
ceñte ; but those of Hilovasco, New St. DoAiingo,
Titiguapa, Senzuntepeqne^andGuacotecte, ifere:
when the intendancia of St. Salvador was esta*
blished in 1785, or soon after, the two first were
added to the subdelegation of Cojutepeque,
and the three others formed into a separate sub-
delegation. The villages of Apast^eque, Sa-
guayapa, St. Sebastian, Tecoluca, Istepeque, and
Tepe titan, built in 1792^ are under the ayunta*
miento of the city.
There is a factory of tobacco in St. Yincente,
composed of a factor, an interventor, a store-
keeper, secretary, and guards : the treasury, chest
of this establishment was formerly kept at St.
Salvador, but transferred, in the year 1792, to the
village of Tepetitan, where a house was erected
for those who had charge of it ; as, however, the
tobacco plantations are only a short distance from
the city, which appeared to oflTer greater security
for the king's property than the village, as wellas^
a more convenient and agreeable residence for the
officers of the factory, the treasury was removed
thither in 1811.
Sti Vincente is 12 leagues from the Pacific
Ocean, in a beautiful valley sheltered by 2 high
ridges of mountains, and well supplied with ex-
cellent water ; the River Acaguapa, the stream ^f
which is particularly cold,^ flows through it on the
northern side, skirting the city in its course; on
the opposite side runs the River Amapupulta,
the waters of which are warm 4 a little far-
ther oti is the river of St. Christopher, and this
stream is always of the temperature of the human
body. In different parts of the valley there áremi<^
259
i^eral springs, one called the Dead Spring, Los
Muertos ; another the Warm Water Spring í a
third, the Silver Water Spring, &c. Surrounding
the city are excellent cultivations of maize, rice,
pulse, and other articles of provisions ; but the
most valuable productions of the district are
kidigo and tobacco, both of a quality superior
to any other in the kingdom.
CHAP. XIX.
Of various Objects worthy of Attention in the
Province of St. Salvador.
On entering the intendancy of St. Salvador, the
first object of attention is the lake of Guixar,
situated on the boundaries of Metapa and Ostua,
villages in the jurisdiction of Cuscatlan. This
lake is remarkable for its extent of 20 leagues,
and for the great body of water flowing into it ;
the large River Mitlan, augmented in its long
course by many tributary streams, takes the name
of Ostua, and discharges itself into the lake; the
lake of Metapa receives the Rivers Langue and
Languetuyo, and by a subterranean channel com-
municates with LakeGuixar; the River Guixar, a
large and powerful sti^eam, in no part fordable,
flows out of the lake, and, after a winding course,
falls into the River Lempa. These two lakes
furnish to the whole district an inexhaustible sup-
ply of delicate fish. In the middle of Guixar,
a large island most picturesquely covered with
wood, gives shelter to immense quantities of game,
from which a plentiful provision is obtained for
all the surrounding towns and villages ; it serves
s 2
260
also as au intermediate stopping place, for the
Indian canoes in their passage from one side of
the lake to the other. On this island there are the
ruins of some ancient buildings» called by the na-
tives Zacualpa» which in their language means
the Old Village, of sufficient extent to convey the
idea of its once having been a place of importance*
Fuentes (in topa. 2, lib. 4, cap. 5,) says, It had
been affirmed, on very respectable authority^ that
in the interior of the woods on this island, satyrs
had been frequently seen : this assertion may be
suffered to pass, in the present day, without the
trouble of inquiring into the respectability of the
said authority. The lakes of Texacuangos and
Gilopango afford various kinds of fine fish, more
than enough for the markets of St. Salvador, and
a great portion of the infendancia. The volcanoes
of St. Salvador, St. Miguel, and St. Vincente, are
entitled to notice ; eruptions from the two former
are known to have happened, firequently attended
with copious discharges of calcined substances,
although no minute relations of these events are
pow extant. The volcano of St. Vincente is better
known, and a more exact description of it can be
given. Among the mountains that enclose the
town of St. Vincente, one situated in the south*
west lifts its towering summit far above the
others: this certainly contains in its interior im-
mense quantities of sulphur, and other inflam-
mable substances, which is manifested by nume*
rOus springs of warm water that descend from its
* sides, and more particularly by an aperture on its
northern flank, called the Infernillo, which emits
jsmoke; in this direction also there are many other
openings filled with very hot water : from these
261
may be heard a noise resembling that of boiling
water, which is increased by the slightest agita*
tion of the air» even by so trifling a one as that
of the human voice. There are many streams
of different kinds of water, which unite and form
some of the rivers that irrigate the valley. On
some parts of the mountain is found a very white
earth, commonly used for painting in distemper;
in others, yellow, rose colour, purple, arid blue ;
vitriol or green copperas is also met with. Among
the animals that inhabit it, there are many wild
boars; and the danta has been frequently found
there. The vegetable productions consist of such
trees and fruits as are peculiar to the colder cli-
mates of the kingdom : in fact, so great is its alti-
tude, that in the upper regions the cold is ex-
cessive.
Another prominent object of attention is the
River Lempa, which separates the districts of St.
Vincente and St. Miguel. This stream when at
the lowest is 70 toises broad ; at its highest
mark it is more than double that distance: and
the current is then so rapid as to make it im-
passable in canoes. It rises among the moun-
tains of Esquipulas, in the province of Chiqui-
roula ; at first it is only an inconsiderable rivulet
called Sesecapa ; which in a course pf more than
40 leagues, receives the tribute of almost innumer-
able small streams, and finally discharges an im-
mense volume of water into the Pacific, a little to
the westward of the bay of Jiquilisco.
The natural productions, both animal and ve-
getable, are in general similar to those of the other
provinces on the southern coast; but the balsam
tree is the exclusive growth of this; in what is
called the balsam coast, which extends from the
262
port of Acajutla to the bay of Jiquilisco. Alcedo^
in his Dictionary, under the word Sonsonat^
says; *^ This balsam is the most precions of any
known, and highly valued in every part of the
world/' The tree that produces this inestimable
medicine presents to the Pharmacopeia many
other valuable drugs : by making an incision in
the trunk of it, a liquor exudes, called the black
balsam, an admirable remedy for effecting a
speedy cure of wouuds of every description : from
the flowers the spirit of balsam is made; the
seeds, or nut, produce the oil of balsam, an ex-
cellent anodyne ; and the capsules yield the
white balsam. From these simple kinds the tine-
ture, or essence of balsam, is extracted : it is ge-
nerally termed balsamito, and was a discovery
of Don Jose Eustaquio de Leon, director of the
mint in Guatemala, who published a description
of the many virtues of this peculiar medicine. It
is cordial, corroborant, and diuretic; dissolves
viscous humours, facilitates the circulation, and
aids digestion : taken in the quantity of half a
spoonful, it soon produces recovery from fainting
fits ; a few drops in aniseed, or quince water, is
an excellent remedy for bilious or windy cholic;
in aniseed it relieves hysterical affections; in
mint water it expels worms ; in wormwood water
it is excellent in child-birth; in water of onion seed
it relieves the stone; to strengthen the stomach, ex-
hilirate the spirits, for colds, or in fevers, it may be
taken in wine ; and for many other coroplaint;$,
by adapting the vehicle in which it is taken to the
particular infirmity^ it is a sovereign medicine.
A small quantity infused in common water gives
it the appearance of milk^ and a pledget dipped
therein is a good remedy in most accidents; placed
263
upon the abdomen it alleviates heats and diffi-
culties of passing the urine; applied to recent
wounds it is a good styptic, and will effect a cure :
it removes the itching and pain that remain after
extracting the nigua^* and prevents inflammation :
a cloth dipped in it, and laid upon the face, will
prevent wrinkles and remove freckles.
Another most valuable production of this pro«»
vince, is the añil, or, as foreigners call it, indigo.
It is true, the plant called Giquilite, from which
it is prepared, grows in most parts of the king-
doüi ; and there are many manufactories of the
article in several estates on the southern coast;
but the quantity of indigo made in them, is tri-
fling compared with what is produced in the pro-
vince of St. Salvador. This indeed is the best
and most esteemed ; and generally preferred to
that made in the Antilles islands. In the year
1782, a Mont de Pieté, and a society of the
growers of indigo were established in St. Yin-
cente; and the fair held on the 1st of November^
in the village of Apastepeque, was transferred to
the city, where, on the 1st of December, it was
kept: an immense quantity of dying materials
was produced ; an extraordinary number of mer-
chants attended, and very large purchases were
made. In 1784, this establishment was removed
to the city of St. Salvador, where the fair dimi-
nished almost to nothing: for the purchasers re-
sorted, according to ancient custom, to Apastepe-
que, as much more convenient, from being nearly
in the centre of the province.
* The nigua is a very troublesome insect, something like a
flea, which fotrms a nidus between the skin and the fleshy parti-
cularly about the feet and legs, producing the moit disagreeable
sensations; unless carefully removed, it multiplies incredibly,
and renders a cure extremely difficult.
364
CHAP. XX.
The Provinces situated on the Atlantic— Of the
Conquest of Verapaz^ Alcalá^ and La Manché.
In the year 1536, Bartholomew Las Casas^ Pedro
de Ángulo, Luis de Cancer» and Rodrigo dé La-
drada, of the Dominican order, settled in the cit j
of Guatemala. (Remesal, lib. 3, cap. 7. 9, 10,
and 11.) Las Casasi who was vicar of the con-
vent, had, some years before, written a treatise»
which he called " De unico vocationis modo ;"
in which he attempted to prove, and with great
erudition,, that Divine Providence had instituted
the preaching of the gospel as the only means of
conversion to the Christian faith ; for by those
means alone can the understanding be persuaded,
and the inclination be led, to embrace its tenets;
consequently, harassing by wars those whose
conversion is sought for, is the means of prevent-
ing, rather than accomplishing, the desired ob-
ject. Hence it results, that, to obtain this end,
war cannot, in justice, be made upon those who
have never been subject to a Christian authority,
or have never committed any act of agression
against Christians. This reasoning was generally
believed fallacious; and when the author pro-
mulgated, and endeavoured to prove it from the
pulpit, as well as in private assemblies, instead of
producing conviction among his auditors, he was
laughed at, treated with ridicule, and advised to
put in practice what he had preached in theory ;
as he would then be with certainty undeceived by
the bad success of his rash enterprise.
Firm in t^is opinion, and possessing too much
365
courage to be intimidated by taunts» Las Casas
unhesitatingly accepted the proposal. The pro-
vince of Tuzulutlán, which the Spaniards c^led
Tierra de guerra (the land of war), as they bad
been three several times driven back in their at-
tempts to conquer it, biit which the Emperor
Charles the Fifth afterward called Verapaz, be-
cause the natives were brought within the pale
of Christianity by the exertion of the missionaries
only, was pitched upon by him as the scene of
his first endeavours; and this region, that the
Spaniards were unable to subdue by their arms,
yielded to the mild persuasion of a few zealous
ecclesiastics. The Dominicans, previous to com-
mencing their undertaking, entered into an agree-
ment with the governor, Alonzo de Maldonádo,
that such provinces as might be reduced to the
obedience of the crown of Spain by their efforts,
were not to be put under the charge of any indi-
vidual ; and that no Spaniards should be per-
mitted to reside in them during a period of five
years. The governor assented to these terms,
and signed an agreement of that purport on the
2d of May, 1537 ; which was confirmed by the
king on the 17th of October, 1540, and again on
the 1st of May, 1543.
This arrangetnent being concluded, the Domi-
nicans composed some hymns in the Quiche lan-
guage ; in which they described the creation of
the world, the fall of Adam, the redemption of
mankind, and the principal mysteries of the life,
passion, and death of the Saviour. (Remesal,
lib. 3, cap. 16—18.) These were learned by
some of the converted Indians, who traded with
those of Sacapulas and Quiche, where the chief
266
cacique of that country, who was afterward
called Don Jnan, having heard them sung, asked
those who had repeated them to explain more in
detail the meaning of things so new to him. The
Indians excused themselves from so doing, on ac-
count of their inability to perform it correctly,
saying, they could be explained only by the ¿-
thers who had taught them ; and these were so
kind that, if he would send for them, they would
gladly come and instruct him in every thing. The
cacique was pleased with the information, and
sent one of his brothers, with many presents, to
entreat that they would come to make him ac-
quainted with every thing contained in the songs
of the Indian merchants. The fathers received
this ambassador with great kindness, and much
satisfaction to them sel ves; and determined that one
of their number, Luis Cancer, should return with
him to the cacique. The chief went to the en-
trance of the village to meet the missionary, treat-
ad him with great veneration, and after having been
made to comprehend the mysteries of the new
faith, he fervently adopted it, burnt his idols, and
became a preacher of the gospel to his own sub-
jects.
Cancer returned to Guatemala, and the fa-
vourable r^orts he made so much rejoiced Las
Casas and .Aogulo, that, in December, 1537, they
set out for the residence of the cacique Don
Juan. They visited the whole district, and went
into the province of Tuzulutlán, where they were
well received ; and having reconnoitred a part of
it, they returned to the cacique Juan. At this
time the fathers endeavoured to assemble the In-
dians in villages ; for as they w^re then living
267
dispersed, there was greater labour in civilizing
and instructing them. With this object in view,
they undertook to form villages ; and, by the as-
sistance of the chief, they soon succeeded, but
not without much labour, and some opposition,
in establishing the village of Rabinal. This ob-
ject having been satisfactorily accomplished, they
penetrated farther into the province, and reached
Coban, being every where well received by the na- '
tives.^ Las Casas affirms, in his ^^ Apologetical
History," that in no part of the Indies did he find
governments better ordered, or ruled by better
laws, than those he met with in this district
Thus the Indians of Verapaz, brought to live
in societies under a rational legislation, and ia-
structed in the dogmas of true religion, embraced
Christianity with ardour, and cheerfully submitted
to the empire of the Spanish monarch. Such was
the case, not only in Rabinal and Coban, but in
places more remote ; as Cahabon, and others.
After the conquest of Verapaz, thus fortunate-
ly and mildly achieved, the Dominicans next un-
dertook that of Alcalá. In the year 1552, Thomas
de la Torre, vicar-general of the order, arrived at
Coban, in his visit to the different convents. At
* It may at ñrst sight appear inconsistent and contradictory
to say that the missionaries arrived at Coban, atid other places ;
and afterward, that they persuaded the natives to live in vil-
lages ; but it must be observed, that in the time of their pa-
ganism, these Indians had villages similar to some still existing,
that are^ called Pajuyues, in which the houses are so far dis-
tant from each other, that a place, containing 500 inhabit-
ants, will extend a league or more. These fathers, and some of
the first conquerors, placed them in villages formed after the
Spanish manner, with the church in the centre, before it the
square, with the cabildo or town-house, prison, and other
offices, the houses connected in squares, the streets straight and
croftfl^ing each ptlier at right angles.
268
this period, Domingo Vico had made himself masr-
ter of the language of Alcalá, and accompanying^
the vicar-general, they made their first entree in-
to that province ; where they preached with so
much zeal and fervour, that they induced many
natives to embrace Christianity, and give up á
great number of their idols, which were publicly
burned. They pursued their apostolical labours
with diligence, converting and baptizing many;
but being repeatedly warned that some of the in-
fidels meditated their destruction, they withdrew
privately. Some time after this. Vico renewed his
visit to Alcalá, and succeeded in making many
proselytes. Being appointed prior of Coban, he
sent Alonzo Vayllo, and some others, into Al-
calá ; and not long after, the conventuals of Co-
ban went thither on a similar mission. The three
years of Vico's priorate having expired, he made
another excursion into that province, and exerted
himself with unwearied zeal to persuade the inha-
bitants to form societies, and build villages ; la-
bouring incessantly to promote their welfare,
until he fell a martyr to his kindness. He was
killed by them on the 29th of November, 1555.
Remesal makes no mention of Alcalá after Yico's
death ; and it is supposed farther attempts to re-
claim them were abandoned.
Immediate to the province of Verapaz is that of
Manché, the reduction of which was occasioned
Iby the following circumstances. (Remesal, lib.
2, cap. 18—20.) About the year 1570, some
of the principal Indians came to Coban, where
they were well received, and much caressed, by
Thomas de Cardenas, bishop of Verapaz, and
other residents in the convent. This pleased
269
them so highly, that afterward they frequently
came to Cahabon, the nearest village to their own
territories : on these visits, the fathers always in-
structed them on religions subjects, and exhorted
them to embrace Christianity; but the answer
always given was, that they would consider about
it, but they remained undecided with respect to
giving up their native mode of worship until 1603.
In this year, a chapter of the Dominican order was
held in the convent at Sacapulas; and Alonzo
Criado de Castilla wrote to the members, recom-
mending them most earnestly to undertake the
conversion of Manché. The means by which
this service was to be effected, were discussed in
the assembly, with great attention, several times ;
and the result of these conferences was, to order
Juan de Esguerra to prepare for undertaking the
mission as speedily and effectually as possible.
On the 25th of April, Esguerra, accompanied by
Salvador Cipriano, left Cahabon for Manché, and
reached the first village of that province on the
ist of May, which, being St. Philip's day, they
called after the saint : the cacique advanced to
meet them, and regaled them according to the
manner of his country, with all the distinction he
could shew ; the principal chiefs of the other vil-
lages that they visited followed the cacique's ex-
ample. The fathers preached to the Indians in
all the 4)laces they visited ; and having explored
as much of the territory as they then could, re-
turned to Cahabon. At the desire of the pre-
sident, Esguerra persuaded some of the caciques
to accompany him to Guatemala, where they
were received by the governor, and treated with
every mark of attention and kindness ; he pre*
270
sented them with dresses of silk, and gave them
others for their wives. This good treatment ope-
rated strongly in making the Indians depose the
fear they entertained of the Spaniards, and led
them to consider the offer of Christianity as liable
to fewer objections than they had entertained
against it. In February the following year, 1604,
the same missionaries undertook another journey
into Manché; in May they were followed by some
more, and, in addition to these, care was taken to
send some of the baptized Indians from Cahabou
into the villages of Manché, that they mi^ht use
their influence in exhorting the inhabitants to
attend to the instructions of the fathers : these
means were so successfully plied, that in 1606,
8 villages had entirely abandoned the Pagan rites,
to kneel before the altars of Christianity, and sub-
mit to the government of Spain : the population
of these villages was not inconsiderable, one called
St. Miguel Manché, contained about 100 houses;
that of Assumption Chocahaoc, as many; Hixil,
12 ; Matzin, 30, and Yxuox, 25.
CHAP. XXI.
Of remarkable Objects in the Province of Verapaz.
In the village of St. Augustin Lanquin, there is
a cavern wherein very beautiful stalactites are
formed by water that exudes from the roof.
Another remarkable object is the Rio de la
Passion, that rises in the mountains of Chama ;
where it passes to the north of Coban, in front of
the mountains of Chicec, it is 25 toises broa'd, and
not less than 10 deep: in the rainy season the
271
breadth increases to half a league, and the depth
is proportionably augmented ; in a long course»
the stream is swelled by the aggregation of many
other rivers : from Verapaz it flows to the noith-
west, passes through Peten, enters the province
of Tabasco, and uniting %vith the large river Ut-
sumazinta, discharges itself into the bay of Cara-
peachey, where it forms the bar of St. Peter and St.
Paul. By this river a considerable traffic might
be carried on with the city of Guatemala ; this, in
fact^ was formerly done by the Lacandon Indians,
who dwell upon its margin, in which they are said
to have employed not less than 424 canoes. Were
the navigation of the river to be prosecuted, the
conversion of the Lacandon Indians might, in the
first place, be accomplished : for by intercourse
with the Christians, they would become domestic
cated, and inclined to adopt their religion ; tvith^
put this preparation, their reduction will be a
matter of difficulty : for as soon as they are visited
in one place, to avoid farther importunity, they
remove their wives, children, canoes, and pro-
perty, to another, where they remain until they
are again assailed with solicitations. A very pro-
fitabW commerce might also be opened with the
provinces of Peten, Tabasco, Campeachey, and
even with Vera Cruz. Another great advantage
would be obtained, for the lands on the banks of
the river could soon be brought under cultiva-
tion, as they are extremely fertile, and peculiarly
well adapted to the growth of coffee, cocoa, and
sugar.
Were the navigation of the River Polochic to
be encouraged, great benefits would be the result ;
for by it the produce imported from Europe to
272
the gulf of Dolce, might be transported to the
capital. This river rises ia the mountain of Xa-
caneb, descending from which, it passes by the
village of St. Paul Tamajun, and then takes a
north-easterly direction ; about four leagues from
St. Paul, it flows by another village, St. Miguel
Tucuru, and continues its course into the gulf;
in this space it unites with the Cahabon river.
About 8 leagues from Tucuru, there was formerly
a village called St. Catharine^ and farther down,
another named St. Andrew's, both of which were
burned^ and the settlements destroyed by the Eng-
lish. In former times, the merchandise imported
from Spain to Guatemala, and that exported
thence to Europe, were conveyed by this river;
and even so lately as 1793, the organ imported
from Europe for the church of St. Domingo, wais
transported to the capital by this route. The ad-
vantages that would flow from this navigation
are obvious; in the first place, the Polocbic has
always sufficient water, not only for canoes, but
even for vessels, although the latter cannot enter
it from the gulf, on account of the bar at the
mouth of the Lagoon, which is therefore navigated
by cutters: from the bar to the junction of the
Cahabon river, large launches are employed, and
from thence large flat- bottomed canoes. In the se-
cond place, the route from Las Bodegas to the ca-
pital, by the Polochic, is much shorter than that
by Zacapa; as from Guatemala to the place of
embarkation, called Ave Maria, about 11 leagues
from Tucuru, the distance is 55 leagues, and this
paay be travelled with ease in 6 days ; from Ave
Maria to the mouth of the Lagoon, 2 days; thence
to the Castillo, at most 2 days more ; so that the
á73
transit from Guatemala to the Castillo/ may be
performed in 10 days. Thirdly, This route is more
healthy than the other, and free from the excesr
siveheats which have in that destroyed so many
lives. Fourthly, There is an abundant supply of
provisioDs/as the lauds of Verapaz are fertile in
the extreme, consequently all articles of necessity
are to be procured at the most moderate rate. In
the years immediately subsequent to the cour
quest, the navigation of the Polochic was prohi*
bited; but this was from circumstahcies that do
not now exists the first objection was from the
missionaries having stipulated \nth the govern-
ment/that for a specified time none of the' Spa-
niards should be permitted to enter the province
of Verapaz; but no such prohibition bein^ howin.
force, the Spaniards traverse thexountry at their
own pleasure, without the Indians objecting to it :
besides this, the Indians themselves woiild be
great gainers by this line of communication; for
passengers, as well as the carriers, would make
from them purchases of such provisions as were
required. Another niotive for the original prohi-
bition of this route was, that tlie Indians suffered
severe hardships from the brutality of the traders,
who loaded them, like beasts, with burdens dis-
proportioned to their powers; but this cause is
now annihilated, — for even by the longer route of
Zacapa, there are mules siiffieient for the trans-
port of iatny quantity of merchandise. ^
; In Verapaz there are several rare animals, which
aré not to be met with in any other part. The
zachin, for ¡example, a quadruped resembling a
rat, about a span long, with a tail about 6 inéhes r
the superior part of Ithe body i6 sniiíF coloured.
274
ami the inferior white ; the ears small and roond,
the eyes placed so low as to be almost on itm
snout; it emits so fetid a smell/that dogs will
not attack it, unless they are much enraged : al^
though so diminutive» it preys upon snakes, rats^
birds^ even those of large size; mountain cats, and
deer, with all their velocity cannot escape it ; in
poultry yards it makes great havoc, and the re-
medy the Indians use to keep it away, is the
smoke of chile ; within the houses it is very rarely
caught, but in the open fields, or on the moan*
taiñs^ there is neither huntsman nor dog that
can overtake it ; it pays not respect to man, for
it will attack him with great boldness, and the
bite of it is so virulent, that the wounded part
immediately swells, and fever ensues.
The chion is a small bird^ about the size of a
canary, and of various colours : some are of a fine
shining black; others have the head and upper
part black, the breast and inferior parts white,
and the wings spotted ; there are some yellow,
like canaries, which they also resemble in sc»^ :
this little creature cannot be domesticated, for
they never survive 2 days of captivity.
The chulpilchoc is a native bird of the cold^
and humid mountains of Verapaz; the pluomge is
black, except on the breast, which is scarlet ; it is
about the size of a canary, but has no song, at;
least only a sort of short whistle.
The raxon is one of the most beautifiil birds
known ; it is an inhabitant only of the mild di*
mate of Y^fapaz, for great heat, or excessive cold .
are alike destructive to it. Nature has denied it
song, but by fluttering its wings it makes a noise
like that of a hawk's bell ; it is, therefore, only
27o
Mtimable for the plumage: its height is about
tune inched, the bill short» audi eyes black ; the
feet are (provided with three toies before» and cue
behind ; the feathers below the bill» aod oo all
the front part» are purple : a ring round the neck^
and the upper part of the body are of a lustrous
emerald green» exquisitely beautiful ; the wings
and tail are black. The female is larger than the
nnfe» but differing from him so much» as to seen^
a^ercaAure of a distinct species; the feathers are
gnf with streaks of white» but in the sun's rays
they have a tinge of ,gr€ieii.
CHAP. XXII.
0/ihe Reduction of the Chol^ Lacand<m, and
Mopan Nations.
Thb nation of the Choi Indians is settled in a
country about 25 or So leagues distant from
Cahabon, the last village in Yerapaz» and not far
removed from the Manches: the conversion <^
this tribe was undertaken in 1674, by fstther José
Delgado» a Dominican. In the following yeai*
aome of the Chols arrived dt Guatemala» to en-
treat that some ministers might be sent to instruct
them» as they were desirous oS becoming Cbris^
ttaiis. Théróyal audiencia ordered EranciscoGai*
legos» the provincial of the order of St. Doming^o»
to depute proper persons to undertake this im^
portadt mission ; the provincial himself» attended
by Delgado» determined to go on the service:
on arriving at Cahabon, they took some young In->
dtans as guides into the mountainous district ;
and» after a journey of 23 leagues; arrived at the
dwellings of the Indians» who bad visited th^ ca^
T 2
276
pital. At this place they assembled as many of the
Cbols as they could collect; and built a village
which they named St. Luke, and soon afterward
two others, not far distant from the first. They
subsequently penetrated into the sierras farther
to the north, and ascended a very lofty mountain,
which was designated by the natives the God of
the Hills. On the other side of this mountain
were great numbers of inhabitants, who imme-
diately came to visit the fathers; and these, having
made them comprehend^ that they had been sent
by the Almighty for their instruction, were treated
with great kindness and respect : the natives say-
ing, that they appeared among them, like the sun,
moon, and stars, to dispel the darkness of their
ignorance. The Indians then cleared a road for
them to advance farther into the country, and as
they arrived at any difficult or rojugh part, care-
fully carried them over it; in this manner they
continued their route, and in the space of 8 leagues
3 more villages were marked out. The rainy
season was now approaching, and the fathers re-
turned to Guatemala.
In 1676, the same zealous missionaries again
visited the Cbols and the Manches, and encoun-
tered much less of difficulty or fatigue than in
either of their former journeys, as a more direct
path. had been opened for them; they foupd/uie
Indians still persevering in their designs, apd that
they had not forgotten such instruction as bad
been : already aflbrded to them : naore settle-
ments were formed^ in which 2346 persons were
admitted to the rite of Christiai) bs^ptism, besidies
many others, at the different dwellings and ^iimll
settlements dispersed among the mountains. In,
277
1678, .Tor< what reásotí cannot now bé discovered^
die Chols returned totheir native Worship, aban-
doned the villages, blocked up the roads, dis-/
persed among the mountains, and thus destroyed
the expectations that had been raised at the ex<-
pense of so much labour and fatigue.
In 1676, fresh orders were sent out from Spain
to the governor, the bishop, and the alcalde
mayor of Verapaz, to increase their endeavours,
to effect the conversion of the natives of this dis-
trict. No attempt was made by the governor to
carry these orders into execution until 1682, when
they were communicated to the provincial of the
Dominicans ; and in this year but few prepara-
tions were: made. In 1684, the bishop of Guate-
mala signified to Don Enrique Enriquez de Guz-
man^ the governor, his intention of visiting the
province of Verapaz, with the view of promoting
under his immediate inspection the coñversioü of
the infidels. The governor assembled a coubcil,
at which the bishop, the vicar-general, the pro-
vincials Of the orders of La Merced and St. Do-
mingo, and the oidors, were present; the propo-
sal of the bishop^ wa9 taken into consideration,
and. also the offers of the order of La Merced, to
assist to their utmost ability in the work of con-,
version, by penetrating into the province from, the
district of Gueguetenango : the provincial of St.
Domingo promised, that soñie of the members of
his order should^ in the ensuing spring, proceed
by the way of Verapaz on the same service, without
incurring any expense to the govemnient. It was
determined at this council, that the necessi^ry aid
should be given in its greatest amplitude to these
individuals.
278
Id the b^kmiiig of 1085^ the Imhop, and Au«
gDstin Caoo, the pnovtneial of St. Domingo^ set
out (or Verapaz ; and Diego Rivas, provincial of
La Merced, for Gueguetenango ; the curate of
€ahabon dispatched five Indktns to invite the
Chols to celebrate tbe festival of Easter at Cahar-
boQ : these messengers found that tbe dwellings
of the natives bad been barned ; they then pro-
ceeded into the mountainous parts, and baving
met with tbe cadqoe and fiome other Indians,
delivered the curate's invitation to tbem ; the chief
took some time to consider the matter, and the
messengers meanwhile having fallen asleep, were,
in tbat situation, attacked, severely beaten with
dubs, and dismissed witbont a reply : thus ter-
minated the bishop's expedition. Augustin Cano
got into the mountains, and met with some of the
Chols, whom be persuaded to return and settle
again in the village of St. Luke, where he also
established some ministers: this, however, was
insufficient to induce these Neophytes to remain
long in a permanent habitation ; for about the end
of tbe year 1688, they once more burned the vil^
lage, and the missionaries who resided there nar-
rowly escaped with their lives. At this time, Don
José Calvo de Lara viras alcalde mayor of Vera-
paz, and having obtained the licence of the gover-
nor, he penetrated into the country of the Chols,
with a body of tbe Cababon Indians, and brought
away as many of thématives as he could induce to
fbUow him, whom he settled in the valley of Ur-
I'an, in the hopes, that being far removed from
their mountain retreats, and occupying fertile
lands, they would be tempted to remain and
gradually improve their condition. Diego Rivas,
279
who bad taken a different direction from that
o£ifehe bishop, on arriving at Guegnetenango,
i^ewed his dispatches to the corregidor» Don
Melchor Meneos y Medrano; and that officer,
ardently interesting himself in promoting the suc-
cess of the, mission, prepared every thing that
was necessary to farther the instructions of the
government, and accompanied the missionaries :
they entered the country by the village of St-
EUilalia, the whole company consisting of Rivas,
and two others of his order, Juan de Santa Maria,
of the order of Bethlem, the corregidor, and 10
Spaniards. They penetrated into the mountains,
and after 7 days' march, met with some of the
Lacandons, who, on perceiving them, immedi-
ately fled : Rivas and his companipns supposed
them to be spies, ^d fearing that if they should
be attacked by the natives, there would not be
sufficient force in their little party to repel the
assailants, determined upon a retreat.
In 168^, the king's commands for the conversion
of this nation were repeated, and on the 24th of
November, 1692, the council of the Indies trans-
mitted a dispatch ordering the conquest of the
Cbols and the Lacandons, to be undertaken si-
multaneously from the provinces of Verapaz,.
Cbiapa, and Gu^uetenango ; but when this dis-
patch reached Guatemala, the governor, Don Ja-
cinto de Barrios Leal, had been interdicted ^m
%he exercise of bis official functions, and there^
fore the orders were not then carried into effisct.
In 1694, the president, having been restored to
bis employments, began, at the instigation of the
OHSsionaries, Melchor Lopez and Antonio Mar-
gil, who had already made . repeated efforts to
280
oonvert the Chols and Lacandons, with bad suc^
cess aod personal ill-treatoient, to make prepara-
tions for a fresh attempt. Contributions were
demanded from tl^e inhabitants of the capital to
defray the expenses, of the campaign, men were:
raised» proTisions aqd arms collected, as well as
every thing else required for the service. A
general council was assembled to make such
definitive arrangementis as would ensure the suc-
cess of the undertaking. Every thing being in
readiness by the commencement of 1695¿ Barrios:
in person took command» and leaving Bartolomé
de Amezquita» fiscal of the royal audiencia, as his
deputy, advaaced by Ocozingo, a village of the
province of Ghiapa. Captain Juan Diaz de Ve-
lasco was appointed to. command the troops in-
tended to proceed by Verapaz, and captain Tho^
mas de Mendoza y Guzman to conduct those
who were to niarch to Gueguetenango. The
whole force was divided into 9 companies, &
consisting entirely of Spaniards, and 4 of In-
dians; of, which, a of Spaniards and 2 of In-
dians , were to attend the governor ; one of Spa-
niards, and another of Indians, under Mendo-
za; and the other two under Yelasco : several
ecclesiastics attended each of these divisions,
Stfnong whom was the indefatigable Margil. In
January, 1695, the troops marched from Guate-
mala, and on reaching Gueguetenango, the gover-
nor reconnoitered the villages of St. Eulalia and
St. Matthew, by which route it was - intended to
enter the Indian territory, andJeft in them a suf-
ficient force for their protection in case of neces-
sity. He continued his march by Ocozingo, and
being joined atthatjUace by the troops from Ciu-
281
dad Real and Tabasco, he divided his forces,
sent Velasco, with his division, to Cahabon^and
ordered that the 3 detachments should enter
the hilly country by the respective routes that
had been before determined, ^n the 28th of Fe-
bruary.
On the last day of February, captain Melchor
Rodriguez Mazariegos, with Diego Rivas, 3 mis-
sionaries of the order of La Merced, Pedro de
la Concepción, a Franciscan^ and His 2 compa-
nies, left the village of St. Matthew Istaban;
having advainced with great difficulty through
swamps and thickets, and over broken ground,
the whole of the month of March, observed, on
Good Friday, the 1st of April, the prints of naked
feet ; they followed these traces : Pedro de la
Concepción, and 4 Indians, preceded the main
body, and on their sixth day's journey disco-
vered a village of the Lacandons^ which he called
Nuestra Señora de los Dolores, because the foot-
steps which directed them to it had been disco-
vered on Good Friday. Pedro was forced to
enter the village alone, because the Indians were
unwilling to accompany him; he addressed him-
self as well as he was able to the natives, endea-
voured to obtain their good will, and afterward
returned to the camp to give an account of his dis-
covery. The troops then advanced by the same
road, and reached the village on the 9th, but
found it quite deserted ; it contained 100 houses,
besides 2 others much larger, that appeared to have
been appropriated to the public business of the
community, and one still larger that was the place
of worship; this house the fathers selected for
their own residence, and having burned all the
282
idols they could find, cooverted the principal
room of it into a chapel : the troops wereijaar-
tered ip the other houses. Soldiers were «^nt
out in all directions in search of the fugitives,
and also to lool( for the governor, whom Rodri-
guez met with on the 19th of April, and conducted
with the troops to the village. At this place, the
governor determined to construct a wooden fort,
which was completed without loss of time^ and a
garrison of 30 Spanish soldiers and 15 Indians
was stationed in it : some of the troops were now
permitted to return to Guatemala; 4 of these
soldiers surprised 5 of the Lacandons, and went
back with them to the village : these 5 were the
means of inducing 92 more, and among them
Gabnal, the Cacique, to return ; they were rec^ved
with kindness, their houses given up to them, and
the soldiers lodged in huts without the village.
More Indians continued to arrive, until the num*
ber amounted to 400, most of whom were bap-
tized. No discoveries had yet beep made of the
Itzaex Indians ; and as the rainy season was near
at hs^nd, it was judged expedient t/o return with
the troops to the capital, leaving only the garrison
in the fort, and some of the mi^sionarie&i to pursue
the work thus favourably commenced.^
Yelasco, with his detachment, accompanied by
August in Cano, and other ecclesiastiqs, left Ca-
habon, on. the 28th of February, according to his
orders : he proceeded by the mountains^ and after
marching a few leagues, began to meet with some
of the same Choi Indians who had runaway from
the village established by Gallegos in 1675 ; hav*-
ipg qonvinced them that it wa$ intended to treiit
them peaceably and with kindness, 500 yi^vf^
289
soon collect^, who expresied tbeir willingn^sa
to settle in villages, ^bkh was immediately done,
and these settlers induced many more to join
them. The domiciliated Chols soon gave infor-
mation of the Mopans, a fierce and warlike tribe,
spread ov^r about 30 leagues of country, among
whom neither Spaniards nor missio^ari^s had
ever yet ventqred. The description given of this
people, instead of discouraging the soldiers, ex-
cited thetr emulation, and they prepared to go in
search q( them. The commander having made
the necessary dispositions, they departed, and
with much labour cleared their way over preci-
pices, rocks, and, ravines, until they came in sight
of the hovels of the people they were in search of:
the number of families ip this nation, we have
been assured, amounted to between 10 and 12,000,
dwelling in a country of exquisite beauty and
great fertility, in a climate the most agreeable of
any that had yet been discovered. On the first
$ight of the Spaniards, the natives were alarmed^
and gave unequivocal demonstrations of making
a i^tput resistance ;, but the judicious measures of
the .missionaries, and the prudence of the com*
mander, qo much disarmed their resentment, and
calmed their apprehensions^ that they soon opened
a friendly intercourse: the result of which was,
that the, caciquee were brought together, per-
suaded to exchange their present mode of life for
a domestic one, and accept the offer of being ad-
mitted to the benefits of Christianity. Intelli-
gence of what hadlieen effected was sent to the
governor at the village of Dolores, and also to the
royal audiencia; submitting to their considerar
tiofi, (hat adsantages would accrue in building a
284
t0*n in Mopan, to be inhabited by Spaniards ; as'
tbe land was of the excellent quality already men-
tioned, and the situation eligible for facilitating
the reduction of the whole to settled habits of life;
from being in the centre of the unreclaimed nations,'
haying Choi on the south, the Itza on the east and
north, and the Lacandon on tlie west. The troops
continued their march until they reached the ex-
tremity of Mopan, and pitched their camp about
40 leagues from the lake of Itza, having traversed
82 leagues of very mountainous country. On
quitting this situation, the detachment pursued
a route to the river Chaxal, 10 leagues distant
from Itza. Velasco thought of passing the river,
and attempting the conquest of Peten; but the
missionaries represented to him, that, as the num*
bers of the Itzaes were reported to be very great;
their present force was inadequate to undertake
so important an enterprise, more particularly as
the soldiers began to be unhealthy, provisions to
grow scarce, and the wet season was fast ap-
proaching : the commander acknowledged the
force of these arguments, and determined to re-
treat ; but before leaving the territory of Mopan;
a fort vras constructed, and garrisoned by 30 sol-
diera, with some Indians, under the command of
Pedro Ramirez de Qrosco.
As soon as Barrios, the governor, had returned
to the capital, he began to prepare for another
campaign in the ensuing spring, and consulting
the council on the subject, it was determined to
penetrate again by Verapaz with 150 men, and
by Güeguetenango with 100 : Barrios intended to
have taken the command of this expedition also,
but; he died before the spring. Don José de Es^
^85
cals^ senior member of the royal audiencia, sue-*
ceeded to the post of governor, and continued the
preparations for the campaign: he nominated
Bartholomé de Amezquita, oidor of the audiencia,
to command the división of Yerapaz; and Jacobo
de Alcayaga, regidor of the city, to that of Gbe-
guetenango. In January, 1696, the troops left
Guatemala; Alcayaga, with his division, took
the road for the village of Los Dolores ; and Jon
his arrival there, found it occupied by upv^ards
of 500 Indians, virho had become Christians, and
were leading a quiet and domestic life. Having
refreshed his men, be resumed his march, accom*
panied by Rivas and other ecclesiastics, in search
of two more Lacandon villages, called Peta and
Mop, of which he had received information, and
discovered them four days afterward; he was
well received by the inhabitants, and the caciques
gave their promise that they would remove to
Los Dolores. Peta contained 117 families, and
Mop 105. Not expecting to meet with any more
Lacandons, he resolved upon building 15 boats,
and embarking all his men on the river of Lacan*
don, in the hope of discovering the lake of Itza.
After coursing manyleaguesbothup and down the
river, for the space of 2 months, without finding
it, or even obtaining any intelligence that was use-
ful, he determined upon returning, and reached
Dolores on the 29th of April. An account of
his progress v^as sent to Guatemala, and he after-
ward received orders to return thither, leaving
a garrison in the fort of Dolores.
It being intended to build a church at Dolores,
the Indians place of Pagan worship was pulled
down to make room for it: tiie destruction of
286
their temple so inuck displeased the caciqiieSi
Gfatbiial and Tnstetac» that they retired to the
tnouDtaÍDQ with all their followers ; however^ the
missionaries, and the soldiers of the garrison,
sdcceeded in persuading them to come back, and
this too with additional nnmbers, as in searchit^
for them among the heights, they found 4 more
small Tillages, of which Melchor Lopes and An*
tonio Margil had given informatiob before.
Amezquita, with his force, reached Gahdbm,
and directing his march through the territéry of
ihe Chols, arrived at Mopan ; he then continued
his route leisurely, but Velasco, whose impa-
tience could not brook this slow progredb, ear-
nestly entreated permission to advance with a
part of the troops at a quicker rate : his request
was complied with, but accompanied with a
strict injunction not to penetrate more thaln 6
leagues beyond the River Chaxal. This command
was not obeyed with the punctuality of a soldier,
and he advanced as far as the lake, where, being
attacked by the Itzaes, he was killed ; and all his
men, about 100, shared the same fate. Amezquita
pursued his route, but not meeting Velasco at
the appointed place, continued his march with a
small escort as far as the lake, without obtaining
any intelligence of him ^ he, therefore, returned to
the Chaxal, where he had left the main body :
from this place he sent an account of his opera-
tions to the governor, and requested farther or-
ders. At this time, Don Gabriel Sanchez de Ber-
rospe had succeeded to the government, and com*
municated the dispatches, as soon as he received
them, to a council of war, at which the bishop,
and several other persons, assisted: it was de^
287
cUhá, ip this covticil, to recall both diyimons of
trot^pa, to suspeod the fortificatioD that Ama^
qqka bad begao in the savaniia of St. Pedro
Martyr, and to abandon M opan entirely ; that as
many of the Choi Indians as could be induced to
quit their country should be transferred to the
valley of Unran, and that no farther attempt to
convert them should be made until fresh orders
should arrive from Spain. In compliance with
this arrangement, the alcalde mayor of Verapaz,
in concert with the curate of Cahabon, sent 150
Indians into the wilderness to persuade some of
the natives to join them; after much diificuKy,
they brought away 50 of the Chols that were
called Ucbins^ whose huts had been burnt, and
whom they found wandering among the mouor
tains: the alcalde mayor of Amatique also sent
some Indians from his jurisdiction> and they
brought in 85 of the natives, who were afterward
settled in Amatique: the Chols were placed in
the village of Bethlem, whither the president sent
clothing for them, which they received with every
mark of satis£stction.
CHAP. XXIII.
Of the Conquesi of Peteuy and the Reduction of
tléc Itzaes.
The kingdom of Yucatan was known by the
name of Maya, and its capital was called Maya-
pan.* It was subject to a single chief, but after
paying obedience to one monarch for a great
* The substance of the present and preceding chapters has
beeü taken from '^ the History of the Conquest of Itn," written
by Don Juan de Gutierre y Sotonayor, an author whose cor«>
288
miinbar of years, the principal caciqaes revolted,
^nd each declared himself independent lord of
his own territory ; by this rebellion the supreme
sovereign was deprived of all his dominions, with
the exception of the province of Mani, whither he
retired, after having destroyed the large city of
Mayapan, about the year 1420. One of the re-
bellious caciques was Canek, who headed the
revolt in the province of Chichea Itza, distant
about 20 leagues from the village of Tíhoó, which
is at present called Merida. Canek not consi-
dering himself sufficiently secure in this situation,
retired with all his party to the most concealed
and impenetrable parts of the mountains : he also
took possession of the islands in the lake of Itza»
and fixed his residence in Peten, or the great
island. In this new territory the partisans of
Canek increased in number to a very extraor-
dinary degree : for when Peten was^ conquered, he
had under his authority 4 governments and 10
provinces, each containing many villages ; in each
of the 5 islands in the lake there were 22 divisions,
and according to the computation of the mission-
aries who went thither, there were in these islands
alone from 24 to 25^000 inhabitants ; whilst the
Indians who dwelt on the borders of the lake, and
in the clusters of huts dispersed among the moun-
tains, were, by the same persons, said to be almost
innumerable. The conversion of the Itzaes was
repeatedly attempted by the Franciscans of the
province of St. José of Yuqatan ; and one of them,
Diego Delgado^ lost his.life in the enterprise, or, in
rectness íb animpeaclied :- the reader who -may desire a more
detailed account of these conquests than what is here given,
will be amply satisfied in coQ6ulting;that work.
289
the language of bis order» gained tbe crown of
inartyl'dom. During the two campaigns narrated
in the preceding chapter^ it was tbe intention of
the comtnander to get to the province of Itza if
possible; and although Amezquita succeeded so
far as to reach tbe lake, he was unable to pass
over to tbe island of Peten: this arduous under-
taking was however effected by tbe abilities and
perseverance of Don Martin de Ursua y Ariz-
mendi. This officer baving, in 1692, the rigbt of
succession to tbe government of Yucatán, submit-
ted a proposal to tbe king to make a road, at his
own cost, from Yucatán to Guatemala; under an
idea, that tbe intercourse which would tbereby
be opened between the province and tbe capital,
could not fail to facilitate the conversion of tbe
Datives, by rendering those wbo were situated
contiguous to the line of communication more
domestic, and accustomed to the manners and
habits of tbe Spaniards. The proposal of Ariz-
mendi was extremely well received by tbe council
of the Indies, and readily accepted ; orders were
immediately transmitted to tbe viceroy of Mexico,
to tbe president of Guatemala, and to tbe bishop
of Yucatán^ enjoining each to afford Arizmendi
every assistance that be might require : although
these dispatches reacbed America in 1693, tbe or-
ders were not carried into effect until 1695, when
Ursua entered upon tbe government of Yucatán.
The road was begun tbe same year ; in the first
attempt it advanced but little: tbe work was re-
sumed with a greater number of labourers in the
month of June^ commencing where a road bad
been begun several years before; they carried it
forward 86 leagues, and established several vil-
u
290
Iftges for the Indians, who had joined in the la*-
boors and become converts. Ursua experienced
various difficulties, which prevented him from
continuing his operations until the b^inning of
1697. In this interval, several embassies were in-
terchanged between the governor of Guatemala
and thekingof Itza, and received at the respective
courts with extraordinary solemnity ; but either
from a want of sincerity in Canek, or from th^
extraordinary arrogance and insolence of his sub-
jects, they were not attended with any favourable
results. On the 24th of January, 1697, Ariz-
mendi set out from Campeachey ; he sent a small
force under Pedro de Subiaur in advance, with,
orders to halt near the lake, and cut wood Ant
constructing a galliot of 45 feet keel, and a pyra-
gua of smaller dimensions. In the month of
March, the whole of the force reached the border
of the lake, where they encamped, and threw up
an intrenchment for security against surprise ;
here they remained until the vessels were com-
pleted. While they were thus preparing for
farther operations, an Indian^ a relation of Ca-
nek's^ and the same person who bad been sent
ambassador to Merida, paid a visit to the general;
he was desirous of becoming a Christian^ and was
christened, receiving the name of Martin Can.
Ursua received him with pleasure, and shewed
him much attention : many inquiries were made
on various subjects, to which he readily gave
answers, and among other things related, that
when, he was on his return from Merida, the In-
dians of Alain had informed him, that the people
of Chata and Puc, contrary to the orders (tfCatiek,
had killed on the very spot where the camp then
291
was, the persons who came from Yucatán^ and
in th^ Savannah, those from Guatemala, whom
they had surprised while asleep. A few days
afterward, Chamaxzulú, the cacique of Alain^
with several other principal persons, arrived at the
camp : there was also perceived a squadron of
canoes approaching ; that of the chief bearing a
white flag: in these boats came the chief priest
Quincanek» .first cousin of the king Ganek, ac*
companied by Ritcan, chief of another party;
they were all welcomed with great ceremony, re-
ceived presents, and were feasted in the best
matiner that circumstances would permit. Al*
though they all came as messengers of peace, de-
clared that they ardently desired the friendship of
the Spaniards, and wished to be made Christians,
yet the ipreparations observed among those of the
take, as well as those on shore, demonstrated
their intentions to be warlike ; the military officers
readily perceiving that all these external signs of
peace and amity were nothing more than treache-
rous attempts to deceive, judged it expedient to
declare war against them, and enter their terri-
tories with fire and sword, to punish their deceit,
and to avenge th^ death they had inflicted on the
Spaniards. But the general, Ursua, firm in his
determination to preserve peace as long its possi-
ble, issued an order, prohibiting, on pain of death,
either officer or soldier to commit any act of ag-
gression against the Indians^ As soon as the
vessels were equipped, Martin de Ursua, with
108 Spanish soldiers, and Juan Pacheco, the
ecclesiastical vicar^ with his deputy, embarked ;
leaving the camp defended by 127 soldiers, and
many auxiliary Indians, with two pieces of ar-
u 2
292
tillery, 2 wall pieces» and 8 felconets, uader the
command of Juan Francisco Cortes. At dawa
of day the galliot was under sail for tbe island of
Peten ; and now it became most unequivocally
apparent, that all the proposals for peace were
deceptiye; tbe lake was almost covered with
canoes, all directing their course towards the
vessels^ and as soon as they came within reach, a
most furious discharge of arrows took place ; the
island was now perceived to be covered with
armed people. The Indians kept up so continual
a discharge of arrows, that it was alleged to be a
miracle wrought in favour of the Spaniards, that
none of them were killed ; only two were wound-
ed, one of whom being exasperated by the pain,
forgot the general's order, and fired his musket :
this example was followed by all the others, in
spite of every interposition of the officers to pre-
vent such retaliation. The vessel touched the
island, the soldiers jumped ashpre, and kept up
a continued discharge of musketry ; the noise of
which so terrified the enemy, that they sought
safety in a precipitate flight: those of the island,
as well as^^ those from the canoes, leaped into
the water in such numbers, that from Peten to
the main land there was nothing to be seen but
the heads of Indians, endeavouring to save them-
selves by swimming. The Spaniards entered the
great town of the island called Tayasál, which
they found deserted ; the Spanish colours were
hoisted on^ the most elevated point ofP^ten: the
troops celebrated their victory by a thanksgiving
for their escape firom a danger so imminent, and
the name of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios y
St. Pablo was given to the island. This success
293
was obtained on the 13th of March, 1697 ; on tfre
following day the territory was taken possession
of in the name of the king of Spain, and the
charge of it delivered to Juan de Pacheco, whom
the bishop had appointed ecclesiastical vicar : in
token of possession, the Pagan place of worship
was dedicated as a Christian church; water was
consecrated, and afterward mass celebrated, at
which the general and all the troops assisted. So
great was the number of idols found in 21 places
of worship that were in the island^ as well as in
the private houses, that the general, officers, and
soldiers, were unremittingly employed from 9
o'clock in the morning until 5 in the afternoon
in destroying them.
Three or four'days after this conquest, some^of
the Indians began to return to the island ; and
among them came 17 from Alain, one of the
smaller islands : these Ursua employed in conti-
nuing the road that had been opened from Yu-
catán, until it joined that from Verapaz, which
service they cheerfully performed. The general
endeavoured by all possible means to attract the
Indians to the islands, and those who came vo-
hintarily he received and treated with the utmost
kindness. In this demonstration of good will,
Ursua was greatly assisted by his god«on, the
newly-converted Martin Can ; he brought many
families to Peten, and among others Catíiaxzulú,
the cacique of Alain ; this chief, in his turn, per-
suaded the king, Canek, and the chief priest,
Quincanek, to come to Peten : the report of. the
kind reception given by the Spaniards to those
who had taken courage to return, soon brought
many others to ^submit to the authority of the
394
king of Spain. The otheir islands in the lake
very soon submitted, without employing force
against them. Amezquita sent a message to Co-
box, the cacique of the Coboxes, who inhabited
12 villages on the borders of the lake, expressing
his wish for an interview : the Indian chief replied,
that he would be happy to receive his excellency
at his own residence, as he and all his subjects
were very desirous of having the honour of his
visit. Ursua embarked with 40 men on board the
galliot^ and proceeded to the territories of the Co^
boxes. These Indians approached without arms
to meet him, manifesting the greatest satisfaction
at his arrival ; the cacique himself entertained
them with kindness, and offered submission Jn
the name of his subjects, and also for himself.
The Spaniards returned to their vessel, and coast-
ing along the shores of the lake, visited the other
villages of the Coboxes, at all of which they were
received as friends. When Ursua saw himself
completely master of Itza, he sent two officers,
Alonzo Garcia de Paredes, Jose de Ripalda Qn-
gay, and an escort of 10 soldiers, to Guatemala,
with dispatches for the president and the royal
audiencia, giving a detail of the successful termi-
nation of his expedition, a description of the island,
and the advantages that might be derived from
it ; adding, that in order to preserve the conquest
just achieved, it would be requisite to maintain
there a garrison of 50 meu ; but, that much as he
wished to support this force, at his own cost^ by
the great expense he had incurred in opening the
road^ and in subjecting Peten, his finances were
now so much exhausted as not to permit bis
taking that additional charge upon himself; and.
I
295
for this reason alone, he now appealed to the
royal audiencia for assistance. The courts in re-
ply to Üiese dispatches» gave Ursua many thanks^
in .the name of the king, for the important ser-
vices he had rendered to the crown of Spain,
ordered him to select the necessary number of
men for the garrison from those under his com-
mand» and to appoint the proper officers» at the
same time sending him money for their mainte-
nance. The commander immediately set about
building a redoubt on one of the most elevated
situations in Peten ; he appointed captain José de
Estenoz governor, placing under his orders, toge-
ther with the fort, its artillery and provisions, the
galliot, with its captain, crew, and 25 soldiers:
the king Canek, Quincanek the priest, and an-
other relation of the king, against whom some
crimes had been clearly proved, he left as pri-
soners, under charge of Estenoz. The island of
Peten was by this time sufficiently well peopled
by the return of its former inhabitants : the other
islands were all reduced to obedience: 18 vil-
lages had also submitted : the work on the road
was proceeding, and as the period of the rainy
season was near at hand, Ursua determined to
return with the troops to Gampeachey.
In the early part of 1698, Ursua received let-
ters from the vicar of Itza, which gave an account
of Ganek» Quincanek, and many others^ having
become converts» and received the sacrament of
baptism. About the same time, Alonzo Garcia
de Paredes arrived at Gampeachey, on his return
from Guatemala, and informed him the road that
had been made from the lake to Verapaz was
considerably too long» and that the president
\ 296
widbed another to be opened which should, if
possible, be shorter and more direct; in com-
pliance with this request, Ursua employed Pedro
de Subiaur, and the pilots Antonio de Garabajal,
with troops for their protection, to survey and
mark out a nearer road to Verapaz : this they per-
formed, making the distance from the lake to St.
Augustin, one of the villages of Verapaz, no more
than 35 leagues. About the same period, the It-
zaes, in one night, without any previous intima^
tiott of such design, suddenly abandoned the
island, leaving behind them only the 3 prisoners
and 12 women. A few days afterward they
came back again, but only the women consented
to remain in it, most of whom became converts.
On the 24th of January, this year (1698), orders'
were again received from Spain, by the viceroy of
Af exico, the governor of Guatemala, and the go-
vernor of Yucatán, for continuing all possible ef-
forts to effect the conversion of the natives ; and
that they were to endeavour to settle some of
them, by families, along the line of the new road,
in order to ensure, at convenient distances^ suffi-
cient accommodation for travellers. The. king
also communicated to Ursua his particular thanks
for the zeal and application he had shewn in his
arduous undertaking, and appointed him gover*
nor and captain-general over all the territory that
might be acquired by opening the new road ; he
was to be subordinate to .the viceroy of New
Spain, but independent of the governor of Yuca-
tán, which appointment was made public in the
town of Campeachey in November the same year.
Animated by these marks of royal favour, Ursua
left Campeachey for Peten in January 1699, and
297
arrived there on the lltb of Febraary; he was
received at the garrison by the troops and other
persons with every demonstration of joy. In the
beginning of January, 4 officers and 200 soldiers
set out from Guatemala; one division, under the
command of Estevan de Medrano^ marched for
the village of Dolores; and another, under the
general of cavalry, Melchor Meneos, who was the
commander in chief, took the route of Verapaz,
for the isle of Los Remedios. For this isle the
governor sent also 8 missionaries, several ar*
mourers, blacksmiths, carpenters^ bricklayers,
caulkers, and other artisans; many Indian la-
bourers, 25 families to be settled on such lands
as might be found convenient, and also upwards
of 1200 head of cattle and horses for the purpose
of breeding. On the 14th of March, Martin de
Ursua, with the governor and officers of the gar-
rison, left the island, and advanced about a league
on the main land to meet the two commanders,
Medrano and Meneos: after an interchange of
civilities, the whole party embarked on board the
galliot, and passed over to the island. Here a
contest of courtesy took place between the two
generals, Ursua and Meneos, each wishing to
serve under the orders of the other, which was
finally terminated by agreeing that they should
issue the necessary orders conjointly. A council
of war was then held, in which it was resolved,
that the town his majesty had ordered to be built
should be founded on the margin of the lake;
that a reinforcement of 30 men should be attached
to the garrison, because there still remained 15
nations of Indians, to the eastward of Peten, to
be brought under subjection ; that the new road
298
marked out by Subiaor should be completed, aiul
huts, bridges, and canoes built ; that 50 Indians
should be retained to cultivate milpas, or corn
lands, for the public service, until 40 families of
domesticated Indians could be sent from Guate-
mala to be employed in raising maize and pulse
to supply the island. After this council broke up,
the two generals sent the captain Juan Gonzalez,
with a party of 12 soldiers, to look after the ¡divi-
sion that had marched for Dolores, and which
ought to have joined the other party before this
time; they did not arrive at Peten until the 1st
of April, halving lost their way, and wandered
at random for 12 days. Captain Cristo val de
Mendia with 30 men was sent to the deserted
isle of Alain ; captain Marcelo Flores with his
company to the territory of the Coboxes ; captain
Marcos de Avalos had previously been sent out
with a foraging party to collect maize, as had the
Alférez Juan Guerrero with 40 soldiers for Zoche-
macal. AH these officers received orders to use
every endeavour to bring in the Indians who had
retired to the mountains, or to persuade them,
if possible, to return to their villages; and in fact .
great numbers were by their diligence and in-
dustry prevailed upon to resume their former ha-
bitations. After these operations it was resolved,
as the health of the troops began to be impaired,
to retire from the territory for the present; another
council was held to appoint a commander of the
fort, the soldiers that were to remain in garrison,
and for the arrangement o/ other affairs. The
different cófnpánies then commenced their march
for Guatemala, taking the efame routes by which
they had arrived: general Meneos followed them
399
with the cotDpaoy of Marcos de Avalos, to whotp
were also delivered, the prisoners Canek, now
called after his conversion Don José Pablo
Caneky his son, and his cousin, who had, as it
was presumed^ instigated the Indians to their
recent flight. After these departures, general
Ursua and his troops set out on their return to
Yucatán.
At Peten there remained Juan Francisco Cortés,
as governor, judge of the province, and command-
er of the garrison ; Bernardo Guerrero, captain
of the galliot; a surgeon, armourer, carpenter,
and other mechanics ; the ecclesiastical vicar,
Pedro de Morales ; Diego Rivás, and four eccle-
siastics; 14 ñimilies of Spaniards, some Indian
servants, and the Indian labourers employed in
cultivating the milpas. Soon after the arrival of
Ursua at Campeachey, Don Roque Soberanis, the
governor, died ; and he succeeded him as captain-
general and governor of Yucatán ; to which he also
united the government of Itza. Melchor Meneos
arrived safely at Guatemala with his prisoners,
who excited much interest among the inhabitants
of that city, and were lodged at the residence of
Meneos ; how they were finally disposed of is
now unknown, as the history of Villagutierre ter-
minates with their arrival. There is no doubt but
that the reduction of the Itzaes was completed,
as, in the year 1759, there were in the district of
Peten 7 villages, besides the chief place, which
were served by 5 curates.
300
CHAP. XXIV.
Of the Wars carried on by the Spaniards in the
Province of Chiquimtda.
The province of Ghiquimula de la Sierra was
conquered by Juan Perez Dardon, Sancho de
Baraona, and Bartolomé Bezerra, acting under
the directions of Pedro de Alvarado ; but not one
of the historians of the kingdom has givena de-
tail of the particular events of this conquest. Juan
Godines, Juan Diaz, and Francisco Hernandez,
chaplains of the army, were the first who attempt-
ed to introduce the doctrines of Christianity into
this province; the Regulars, it is certain, never
undertook the task, as none of the records of any
of the orders make mention of it, nor have they
had at any time missions within the province. In
the year 1530, the capital having been thrown
into some disorder by the arrival and extraordi-
nary proceedings of the visitor Orduña, many of
the Indians, and among others those of the dis-
trict of Ghiquimula, seized that opportunity of re-
lieving themselves from the yoke of the Spaniards,
and recovering their ancient independence. When
this intelligence reached Guatemala, the inhabit-
ants, though suffering much from the oppressions
of Orduña, vfere animated by a fervent zeal for
the service of the king, and lost no time in making
the necessary preparations for bringing the rebels
back to their duty. Hernando de Chaves and
Pedro Amalin were appointed to take commands
in this service of danger ; they set out immediately
with the troops, and directed their march to the
301
great, vflldge of Esquipulas^ the principal object
of the expedition.
The Indians of Jalpatagua, a people of a fierce
and turbulent character, attempted to oppose the
passage of the troops, bnt, after some smart re-
pulses/they desisted, and left the road clear. The
soldiers experienced great fatigues in fording the
large rivers that intersect the country, and not
less difficulty in procuring provisions ; but their
fortitude was superior to every impediment, and
they penetrated into the rebellious province. Be-
fore they reached the village of Mitlán, they were
attacked by its inhabitants, assisted by their al-
lies. These fought with great fury and detertíoi-
nation, and did not relinquish the contest until
their lines had been three times broken. At
length they dispersed, and Mitlán was taken
possession of by the Spaniards. They halted
here 6 or 7 days, and made overtures of peace to
the Indians. In this* interval, a very seasonable
reinforcement of 40 infantry and 20 cavalry,* with
an abundant supply of ammunition and provi-
sions, joined the main body from Guatemala.
Thus strengthened and well supplied, after the-
troops had sufficiently rested, they set out for Es-
quipulas: on their march, they very nearly en-
countered a serious disaster ; for being encamped
on the acclivity of a hill, about night- fall, the
officers, on examining the situation, thought the
position not sufficiently secure, and determined to
remove the camp : they ordered the men to strike
the tents, descend in silence from the eminence,
and pitch them again in a little valley below, that
was much better protected against a sudden sur-
prise; the troops had not be#ii in this new po-
302
uitioú abore two hours» when the whole camp wa«
alarmed by tremendous yells, and they sbcHlly
saw the eminence whereon they had first encamp-
ed enveloped in flames. The march toward £¿»
quipulas was immediately resumed, and, before
reaching that place, they sustained two furious at*
tacks from the Indians ; one in passing a rarine,
and another near a village that had been deserted.
These attacks were resisted with their usual cou*
rage; the enemy was repulsed with very great
loss, and the Spaniards advanced until they ar<-
rived within view of the intrenchments before
Esquipulas. This was the capital ; a strong. place
of arms belonging to a powerful cacique, being
surrounded by strong works, and these defended
by a great number of warriors. The Spaniards
encamped very near to the intrenchments, and.
offered peace to the inhabitants and their de-
fenders, as had been prescribed to the command-
ers by the king's orders. Three days were de-
manded to consider what answer should be given
to these proposals ; on the fourth they gave their
decision^ which was, that *^ more out of respect
to the public tranquillity than from fear of the
Spanish arms, they had determined to surren-
der ;** and some of the chief men were sent to the
Spanish camp as hostages. The troops then en-
tered Esquipulas, and took up their quarters in
the houses with the inhabitants, while prepara-
tions were made for rebuilding the villages that
had been destroyed. Thus the whole province of
Chiquimula submitted to the invaders, in the
month of April, 1530. — (Lib. 1, de Cabildos, fol.
162.)
As the cacique of Copan, whose name was Co-
sos
páfi Calel, had been OBe of the principal person»
in exciting tbe chiefs of Chiquimula and E^qni^
pulas to revolt, and bad also assisted them in car-
rying on the war against the Spaniards, Hernando
de Chaves determined to punish him for these
acts of aggression ; and, as Esquipulas was now
effectually subdued, to undertake the reduction
of Gop&n. This city was one of the largest, most
opulent, and most populous of the kingdom; the
great circus, the cave of Tibulca, and other verj^
sumptuous edifices^ the remains of which are still
in existence, be^r ample testimony to tb^ trng-
nificence of the capital, now entirely deserted.
The place is now known by tbe name of the
Valley of Copán^ situated on the boundary line
between the provinces of Chiquimtila and Go-
mayagua; it- was at one time within the ju^
risdiction of the first, but at present belongs to
the latter, province. When the Spaniards arrived
before it^ it was so well prepared for defence as to
be able to hold out úot only against the small
number of its assailants, but even against a large
and powerful army : for, besides the numerous
force belonging to the cacique^ he was assisted by
the troops of Zacapa^ Sensenti, Guixar, and Us-
tua ; so that he was able to form a camp of
30^000 combatants, all well disciplined, and ve-
terans in war, equipped with macanas (or wooden
swords with stone edges), arrows, and slings, and
well stored with provisions for a long time. On
one side, the place was defended by the ranges of
mountains of Ghiquimula and Gracias a Dios; on
the opposite side, by a deep fosse^ and an in-
trenchment formed of strong beams of timber,
having the interstices filled with earth, in which
304
embrasures and loopholes were made, to enable
the be8i^;ed to discharge their arrows against the
assailants» under its protection from the fi^e of
the latter. The Spaniards encamped a small dis-
tance from this work ; and soon after, Chaves,
accompanied by Gaspar de Polanco and some
horsemen well armed, advanced towards the
ditch, and made a sign that he wished to hold a
conference with the caciques : this was acceded
to I when Chaves, by means of an interpreter, de-
livered a speech, in which he invited them to pre-
serve peace by an amicable arrangement : the In-
dians, however, being determined upon war, re-
jected every proposal ; and when the cacique had
finished bis reply he discharged an arrow ; this
was the signal ibr a general attack upon Chaves
and his squadron, that was immediately obeyed
by a shower of arrows, stones, and pikes, which
fell about them in such numbers, that the Spa-
niards were under the necessity of saving them-
selves by a precipitate retreat.
This refusal on the part of Copan Calel greatly
embarrassed Chaves in his operations ; but after
several consultations with bis principal officers,
he determined to make an attack the following
day, upon a part of the intrenchment which ap-
peared to him the least likely to make a vigorous
defence. The infantry were, for this particular
service, provided with loose coats stuffed with
cotton, armed with swords, and each man carry-
ing a shield for his defence ; the horses were co-
vered, and their riders protected by breastplates
and helmets : thus accoutred they advanced to-
wards the fortifications ; the assault, however^ was
vigorously repelled by the Copanes, who were
305
prepared for it; each man having a shield covered
with the skin of the danta on his arm, and his
head guarded by bunches of feathers : the attack
was renewed^ and lasted the whole day ; but the
Indians plied their arrows, javelins, and pikes,
with the ends hardened by fire, with so much
dexterity^ that they maintained their post: great
numbers of them were killed by the Spanish cross^
bows, and the fire of the arquebuses; but these
were immediately replaced by others, and Chaves
seeing many of his own troops wounded, thought
it advisable to retreat. This brave officer, who
had fought in the thickest of the conflict, after-
ward deliberated, maturely and solicitously, upon
the difficulties of an enterprise undertaken entirely
upon his OYfti responsibility ; he considered how
irreparably the credit of the Spanish arms would
sufifer^ were he to fail in achieving the object of
his expedition: reviewing in his mind the arduous
situation in which he stood, he was at a loss how
to meet the dilemma, or what advice to follow. In
this interval of anxiety, information, was brought^
that the ditch which defended Copan was not
equally deep in all parts, and one place was par-
ticularly pointed out where the depth was but
trifling. Encouraged by this news, he proceeded
on the following day to that spot, with the deter-
mination of making an attack; his progress thi-
ther did not escape the observation of the brave
Copanes^ who attentively observed every motion
of their enemies : as soon as they perceived this
movement, they manned the intrmichment with
their bravest soldiers, who valiantly resisted every
effort to approach the defences; as the infantry
were unable to make a lodgment on ,the intrench*
306
ment, the cavalry advanced to their assistance;
and a very sanguitíary contest ensued : the Indians
brought their whole force to secure this point, and
the Spaniards persevering with unconquerable in^
trepidity, stood like rocks, impassible to the pi£:es,
arrows, and stones, of their opponents, which were
incessantly showered upon them* Several times
the infantry attempted to scale t^e intrenchment,
but the force of the stones and lances, which they
received upon their shields, ^tunibled them baclt-
wards into the fosse; this valiant resistance, how-
ever, cost the Indians innumerable lives. The
battle continued long without the appearance of
advantage on either side; at la^t, the deterniined
courage of Juan Vazquez de Osuna decided the
fortune of the day: this brave. soldier, clapping
apurs to his horse, leaped the ditch, and the ani-
mal being carried by the violerico of the exer-
tion, with its chest against the barrier, part of
the earth and palisades gave vray ; the noise of
the cracking timbers frightened the horse, and
he plunged ajinong the Indians who were near
the spot, which so much alarmed them that they
fled.; many other horsemen immediately followed
this daring example, and passed through the
breach : the horses spread such terror amo^ the
Copanes, that, being attacked once moré by the
Spaniards, their lines were broken, and a defeat
enpiued; Copan Galel, however, was not yet con-
quered ; he rallied his scattered troops, at a place
where he had posted a body of reserve, and oiiade
a last effort to preserve his liberty: these sol-
diers, brave and dexterous as they were in the
use of their weapons, were too' few in number to
retrieve his tosses; they were uliable Jong to resist
sor
the Spanish arms, and suffered an overthrow. In
this desperate state of his fortunes, the resources
of the valiant cadique were not yet exhausted ;
he left Copan to its fate, and retired to Sítala, a
to\irn at the extremity of his dominions: at this
place he obtained reinforcements from the neigh*
bouriqg chiefs. Finding himself once more able to
undertake offensive operations, and his courage
inspiring him with hopes of success, he advanced
against his former capital, now in possession of
his enemies ; twice be attiempted to repair his mis-
fortunes, but these efforts only added to his late
losses, that of most of his best officers and tnen ;
he was entirely routed, and his army destroyed;
at last, taught by ill success that r^istancé wa:s
unavailing, and being urged by the advice of
his friends, he consented to submit to the king of
Spain's authority. Copan Calel retired to the
neighbouring mountains, and sent ambassadors
with a pr^ent of gold, feathers, ana a mantle, to
Chaves, from whom they received a kind wel-
come, and the necessary protection for the ca-
cique to come to Copan, where he soon after ar-
rived,^ and was treated with great distinction and
kindáess by Chaves.
CHAP. XXV.
Of remarkable Objects in the Province of
Chiquimula.
The lake of Atescatempa, near a village of the
same name, in the curacy of Jutiapa, receives two
large rivers, the Contipeque and the Yupitepeque,
but there is no apparent outlet for (he waters in?
x2
308
é
any part of its extent ; a small distance from the
borders of it, at a place called La Doncella, a
great quantity of water issues from the earth, and
forms a broad deep river ; as the discbarge is al*
ways regalar, this opening can be no other than
the channel by which the waters of the lake are
drawn off.
The celebrated cave of Peñol is another extra-
ordinary object in the province of Chiquimula ;
the entrance to this cave is in the side of a moan-
tain, on the estate called Peñol, a hereditary,
possession in the family of Don Thomas Delgado
de Naxera : the tradition of the country affirms,
that it extendi through the mountains towards
the village of Mataquescuinte, as far as the Rio
de los Esclavos^ a distance of about 11 leagues.
This extraordinary subterranean passage has been
but little exariiined : captain Juan de Salazar
M onzalve, nephew of Antonio de Salazar, one of
the early conquerors, and maternal grand^aither of
Don Delgado de Naxera, once determined to pro-
ceed to the extremity of it ; but was not able to
advance inore than three quarters of a les^e,
although he repeated his attempt several times :
for arriving at that distance hid lights were always
extinguished, and without them every endeavour
to proceed in total darkness v^as vain.*
The same estate ^f Penol has also produced a
much greater curiosity than the cavern, iu some
gigantic skeletons of such extraordinary dimen-
sions, that of some the leg bones alone measured
* The vapour that exhales from this cavern is azotic gas, fatal
touiiiiiDals that respire it; it speedily extinguishes lighted torches^
and all bodies in a state of combustion.
309
7 quarters^ and of others 2 varas, or 4 feet 10
inqhes, and 5 feet & inches English» in length, an^
all the other bones were of proportionate size. The
historian Fuentes» who wrote in the year 1695» in
torn* 2» lib. 4, cap. 11» mentions» that in his tim^
Don T. Delgado Naxera and Don Christoval de
Salazar carefully made several trials to extract
some of these relics (^tire^ for the purpose of re-
moving them to Guatemala» but they could not
succeed ; for when they attempted to lift 'any one
of them from its bed» it crumbled to dust. A dis-
covery so minutely described by an author gene-
rally esteemed for ingenuousness and veracity»
having the best means of information from his in-
timacy with the two persons just named» who were
both related to him» may be received with some
degree of confidence. It would perhaps be im-
pertinent to claim credibility for this discovery»
by reminding the reader^ upon the authority of
Genesis» chap. vi. that men of gigantic stature ex-
isted in the world» before the flood; and in times
posterior to that event» we are informed by tlie
17th of the First Book of Kings» that the Philistine
Goliath measured upwards of 3 varas (8 feet) in
height: but without reference to remote periods»
it may suffice to adduce a modern instance in the
person of Martin Salmerón» native of a place in
the bishoprick of Puebla de los Angeles» who ar-
rived at Guatemala on the 14th of August» 1800 :
the stature of this man was 2 varas and two thirds
(7 feet 2)» and his bulk in due proportion ; falling
but little short of that of Goliath : this fact is fa-
miliar to all the inhabitants of the city» as Martin
exhibited himself publicly» at a real for each per-
son. About 4 months afterward, chance con-
310
ducted to the same city a striking confeust in the
Tarieties of the human species ; this was a dwarf,
a young man, 24 years of age, bom in the vills^e
of Jalapa in the province of Cbiquimula, who was
only I vara and 4 inches high (37 inches), and
well proportioned.
The great circus of Copan, the cavern of Tib«^
ca,ai)d the stone hammock, having been dcfscribed
in the geographical part of this work, it will be
unnecessary to make iarther mentkni of tiiero in
this place.
CHAP. XXV.
Of the Alcaldía Mayor o/Amatique, and the Port
of Dulce.
The jurisdiction of the alcaldia mayor extends
35 leagues from east to west, and 30 from north
to south : bounded southward by the province of
Chiquimula, northward by the bay of Honduras,
westward by Verapaz, and lands of the unre-
claimed Indians^ and eastward by the province of
Comayagua. This district is fertile in the extreme
and very well wooded ; but it is broken, humid,
and unhealthy. Its productions are sarsaparilla,
Mechoacan, China root, many aromatics, barks
and medicinal woods. In the mountains there
are great numbers of Itons^ tigers, dantas, and ba-
boons of very large size, so daring that they will
attack a man ; an instance of which occurred tp
a hunter, who bad chased and wounded a female
with her young "one; but was prevented from
taking her, by the males which surrounded him
in such numbers, that had he not. fortunately re-
311
ceked assistance fnnti some other h'uuters w^o
caCne up, they would have torn hiin to piécést
Reptiles, and Doxiotis insects of various species;,
are innumerable*
FormerJy there were 3 villages near the gulf of
Dulce, viz. il^matique, situated near the gulf of
Guanaxos, southward of the riv^rDulee; Jocolo;
northward of the same river, where how standi
the castle of St. Philip ; and St; Thomas, souths
eastward of Amatique. There was also, rather
more than 3 leagues westward of Las Bod.ega^^
or the Storehouses, and on the southern. bank of
the river Polochic, a town called New Seville,
inhabited by S|)aniards. Some Spaniards from
the province of Yucatán, having traded to the
port of Dulce, conceived the design of establishing
á town iñ the vicinity of fhe port^ to facilitate the
commerce between the provinces of Guatemala
and Yucatán. They applied to the royal audi-
encia of the. confines, jqst then created, for per-
mission to carry their plan into effect; this being
granted, they chose a con^^enient situation, took
possession with the usual ceremonies, and laid
the foundation pf a n^w town, about the. year
1544. . '
; There wa^ g^od reason to expect from its, local-
ity^ that this would rapidly become, a flourishing
town; beángxílo^e to the river,. near to the Bodegas,
and but: a short distance from the port ; reiidered
it particularly suitable for all parties. To such
persons who came from Spain, it was a desirable
place of refreshment, after the fatigues of so long
a voyage, particularly to those whose health bad
been injured by it: the merchants found conve-
niences for warehousing their goods, and provid-
312
ing every thiog necessary to proceed to the ca*
pital; those of the capital had agents in the
.merchants of New Seville, to receive their mer-
chandise, and forward it internally or externally»
without loss of time ; the inhabitants of the town
possessed every advantage for carrying on an ex-
tensive commerce, and abundant means of enrichi*
ing themselves honourably. In a very short time
it became a place of considerable traffic, with up-
wards of 70 Spanish inhabitants, ordinary alcaldes
and regidors, a military commandant, who was
also civil lieutenant-governor in Uie province of
the Gulf, which post was considered so hononr^
able, that the president of the kingdom nomi-
nated Don Christoval Maldonitdo, one of his re-^
lations, to fill it.
Contrary, however, to all these well^onnded
expectations, the prosperity of New Seville was
of short * duration ; its growing success excited
envy, and many insinuations were made to the
order of Dominicans, that the inhabitants ill
treated the Indians of Verapaz, forcing them to
labours beyond their natural strength, harass-
ing them by incessant insults,^ and deprivii^
them of their wives and daughters. Fired by zeal
in the defence of their new converts, these pious
fathers, without endeavouring to ascertain the
truth of the all^ations, hastened to the royal
audiencia of the confines,- and demanded an order
to disfranchise the town and disperse the inha-
bitants. In support of this demand, they cited
a royal edict of the 30th October, 1547, dis-
patched by the king to the governor Montejo,
commanding him to disfranchise New Salamanca:
this royal determination could nbt be considered
S13
ad extending to New Seville, for only New Sala-
manca, a town in the province of Yucatán, was
named in it, and was therefore directed to Fran-
cisco de Montejo, the governor of Yucatán :
.whereas, had it been the king's intention tp dis-
mantle New Seville^ he would indubitably have
intrusted the execution of this rescript to the au-
diencia of the confines, to which jurisdiction the
town belonged. The president Cerrato, and the
judgra of the audiencia, felt no scruples on this
account; but without requiring other proofs of
the oflfences charge against the inhabitants, than
the bare assertion ofthe monks, or ev^i permitting
the inhabitants to defend themselves against the
charge, promulgated a decree, commanding the
governor^ alcaldes, and inhabitants of New Se^
villé, most peremptorily, and in the most rigorous
meaning of the order, to quit the town, and even
the province of the gulf of Dulce, on pain of
death and confiscation of property, to the exclu-
sion of any replication or appeal whatever, from
the provisions^ of the^ decree. This iniquitous
sentence was notified to the cabildo of New Se-
ville, and duly submitted to on the 30th of Oc-
tober, 1648.
The three villages before mentioned were inha-
bited but for ^ short time, on account of repeated
epidemics that carried off a great portion of the
population : Jocolo was indeed repeopled by Pe-
dro Varona di'Loayza^ but with no better suc-
cess*
About the year 1603, the pilot Francisco Na-
varro found, near the River Motagua^ some In-
dians of the Toqu^ua nation, who were so
gentle and docile that they readily submitted
314 .
té tfaeSpápiürdft. Gaspar de ^drada/bishop of
Comayagua, seot ministers tó instruct t^iein ; but
Remesal (lib. 10, cap. 20), says, this duty bad
.been performed in so slovenly a manner, and the
Neophytes were found, by the ministers of his
order, so little improved in their knowledge of
the Christian faith, as scarcely to be able to re^
^peat the prayers in an intelligible manner: even
the. language which bad been taught them could
not be well understood, as it was a mixture of
Latin and romance. This could only have been
said by Remesal from án inclination to be satiri-
cal; for, as Fuentes observes, it would appear from
this, that these learned missionaries were unable
to speak either Latin or CastiUan ; for had they
been acquainted with either of these idioms, they
would have taught the Tequeguas in it. These
Indians were settled in the village^ of Amátique,
where although many of them died^ some families
of the race continued many years.
: The spiritual concerns of the province of the
gulf of Dulce were committed to the ord[er. of
La Merced, who had a convent in Amatique;
but as the ministers saw themselves exposed to
the incursions of pirates, after New Seville virafe
disniantled, and deprived of the assistance of the
inhabitants of that place, whose alms helped to
support the convent, they made a formal resigna-
tion of their mission to Christoval de Pedraza,
bishop. of Truxillo, in 1549; and tíiis prelate sent
a single curate to do the duty of the villages, and
the castle: the curacy is now extinguished, and
a chaplaiq appointed to the castle by the archbi-
shop of Guatemala. The province of Amatique
was^ civilly governed, at first, by the governor of
mC
315
New Seville^ afterwaird by tikejflie^de mayen- ^
Amattque, and at pres^it fay the casteUan (war-
den) of the gulf. - .
This protmce is inost worthy of attention on
account ^ the gulf of Dulce, where for many
y^BVytihips arriving from Spain have discharged
their cargoes. This, for the first 80 yearfi, wot
done at Puerto Caballos; and at the same place
also the flotilla of Honduras, as it was called, de*
livered their freights ; but so great and so frequent ^^
were the losses and damages occasioned by pirates
in the undefended harbour, that the áyunladiiento
of Guatemala irequently petitioned the governors-
general to appoint apother port for the rendezr
vous of the ships, which might be more easily put
in a proper state of defence to protect them from
the depredations of the corsairs. Many years
passed before attention was paid to these re«^
presentations of the cabildo, during which timé
the incursions of the. enemy continued: insults
became so frequent, that at last the president,
Alonzo Criado de Castillo sent the pilot, Fran?
cisco Navarro, to examine the coast, and ascerr
tain if there was a port that could afford more
protection than those of La Caldera de Punta de
Castilla^ and Puerto Caballos, which had hitherto
been frequented. On the 7th of March, 1604,
Navarro found one in the gulf of Guanaxos, close
to the village^ of Amatiqiie, that appeared to hiiii
much superior to: the others in point of security,
and which he called St. Thomas de Castilla; The
alcalde, Estevan deAl varado, was sent to exa^
mine and sound it : being in all respects a better
harbour than the others, the ships from Spain
were from that time ordered, to make use of it
y/..
316
lo 1607, tbe fortifications aujd defence of port St.
Thomas were talked of with great zeal, several
councils and consultations were held, many grave
deliberations followed, but no measures were
taken. This same year captain Juaq de Monas-
terios arrived with two ships, which he wished to
unload in the new port; but finding it unprotected»
he went to Puerto Caballos. Monasterios bad made
a voyage to this port in 1603, and being ready to
sail on his return to Spain, was discovered in the
harbour by the pirates,Pie de Palo, and Di^o, the
Mulatto, with 8 ships of 400 tons, and 5 launches,
having on board all together 1400 men. Monaste-
rios had only 2 ships, which being intended only
as merchantmen, the crews were not numerous :
undismayed by the great inferiority of his force,
he put his two ships in the best possible state of
defence, and kept his men at their quarters ready
to receive the enemy. The corsairs attacked,
and in the first encounter subdued the largest
ship : they then grappled with the other, com-
manded by Monasterios; boarded him three
times^ and were as often repulsed. Enraged at
this resistance, the attack was renewed with their
whole force; the brave Monasterios performed
prodigies of valour ; but being wounded, having
only 5 men left, and his ship so much injured as
to be unmanageable, he was forced to submit.
This disaster was one of the motives that induced
the president to fibd out a safer harbour ; but as
the new port was not fortified in 1607, when Mo-
nasterios returned, he was exposed to another zX^
tack from the corsairs in Puerto Caballos. While
his phips were taking in their freight, 12 Dutch
vessels approached him: this unexpected visit
317
did not intimidate him ; he put the ships in the
best state of defence the circumstances would
permit, and made a brave resistance^ notwith-
standing the great disparity of force. The action
was maintained with obstinacy on both sides, as
long as day-light lasted, was renewed the follow-
ing, continued for nine successive days, and would
have lasted longer, but the Spaniards fortunately
sunk one of the Dutchmen, and so roughly han-
dled the others, that they were nearly all injured
in their masts: this damage damped their ardour,
and they sheered off. To avoid another visit. Mo-
nasterios determined to fortify the port of St.
Thomas himself: he levelled a platform upon a
rock, and planted on it seven pieces of artillery wr^
which he took from the ships : by such a force it '^
was moderately well defended, and became a much
safer anchorage than Puerto Caballos. With this
advantage, however, it was not long found to be
a convenient place for discharging ships, as the
country round about was so sterile as not to afford
sufficient provender for the mules employed in
transporting the merchandise. On this account
it was abandoned, and the ships were afterward
unloaded at Port Dulce, westward of St. Thomas.
This port remained quite unprotected until 1646^
when the president, Diego de Avendaño, ordered
it to be fortified; and although he died soon
afterward, the works were finished by Antonio
de Lara Mogrobejo. They did not long remaia
in a perfect state ; for in 1686, they Mrere burned
by tl^e piifates, Yanques and Cocolen^ and re-
mained dismantled until the president, Jacinto de
Barrios Leal, ordered them to be rebuilt in a re-
gular f<»rm about 1694.
318
CHAP. XXVI.
Of the Island of Roatan^ and others^ in the Bay
of Honduras.
There are many islands in the bay of Hon-
duras, but tbey are now nearly all uninhabited.
The first, discovered by Columbus, in 1502, was
Guanaja, which he named Pine Island, from the
great number of that species of tree he found upon
it. This island is 6 leagues north of the point
Castile^ or, as it is now called,* Cape Honduras :
the natives were of a mild and pacific character ;
and therefore easily taken by the officers and men
of Pedrarias, who carried them away and sold
them ia Hispaniola. Five leagues westward oí
Guanaja, and 1 league from Roatañ, lies Goa-
moreta. / Besides these, there are in the gulf
the islands Mata, Guayan^, Utila, and Saono;
and beyond the port of Guanajoi^ lie Guay-
dua, Helen, and St. Francisco: coasting towards
Cape Catoche are the islands Ibob, Lamanay,
^^ Zaratán, aiid Pántoxa: all these are very plea-
> y sant^ producing spme valuable commodities, and
jsxcellent timber. At the time of the; conquest
they were well peopled ; but the hostilities cóob-
nittted against them^ first by the Spaniards, and
afterward by pirates who infested these seas, ei-^
ther destroyed or drove them away, and only
Roatan, GuaUaja, and Utila, r^ijaained inhabited.
. The most important of all these islands, and
the only one now peopled, is Roats^n ; this aiid the
two last mentioned, remained quietly under the
dominion of the Spaniards until the year 1642,
when they were attacked by iio English pirát^^:
319
I9x> resistance beiog made by the Indians, Hoatam
and Guanaja* were talcen possession of. The oc-
cupation of these spots was of great advs^ntage to
the Englisb,! consequently of ' proportionate in^
jury to the Spaniards : for, from being so near to
the ports of the main land^ the en^ay were en-'
abled to make attacks upon |;bem whenever they
pleased ; or they could, with equal faciHty, inter-!
cept the commerce between this kingdom and
Sjiain : this occupancy, was also extremiely perni?
cious to the. inbabitants in a religious sense, as the
heretics could not fail of perverting them by thd^tr
detestable maxims. This last cif cujinstance, more
than any thing eke, induced Luis de Cañizares^
hishbp of Comayagua, and Juan de Yeraza, keeper
of the fort of St* Philip de Lara, to stimulate the
presidehttoregain possession of them. . }
The.govérnors of Guatemala and the Havannah;
and the president of the audiencia of St Domingo;
Wicre all interested, and joined in an expedition
to expel the heretics. The governor of the Ha^
vannab dent 4 ships of war, well equipped, under
command of the general Francisco de Yillalva
y Tdedo, .who shaped his course to Roatan,
without touching at any of the anchorages, in the
hopes of surprising the English: in this project
be did not succeed ; for although he arrived with;
his squadron in the harbour of Roatan an hour
before day-break, he was. unable to effect a dis-^
embarkation unperceived by the sentiuels, who
gave aualarm, and the trenches were imniediately
* Gpanaja is phe.9f the largest islands in tke bay, beiog^ 2S
leagues in circumfereiice : it had a good harbour on the south
side, the soil is iPertile, producing cocoa, palm, coyol, besides
many;U0efulandvaluaUe woods. v
320
manned with a respectable force : the Spaniards
attacked, and a brisk action waa maintained
until day-light ivitbout any advantage. The ge-
neral then observing a part of the intrenchment
that was not defended, kept his main body in its
position, and detached an officer^ with 30 men,
to attack the weak part^ in order to turn the ene*
my's flank : the attempt was unsuccessful ; for
the detachment, in advancing, got into a swamp
that was impassable. Villalva still continued his
efforts against other parts of the works, without
any other advantage than killing a few of the be*
si^ed. Nothing decisive was effected, and at
sun-set, having exp^ided all his ammunition, be
marched his troops to the beach, re-embarked,
and sailed for St. Thomas de Castilla to ob-»
tain a fresh supply. Prom that port he sent
to the captain-general an account of what had
taken place at the island. Antotiio de Lara Mo*
grobejo, then governor, assembled a coundl of
war, and in compliance witli its resolutions^
dispatched, on the 4th of March, 1650^ capteta
Elias de Bulasia, with 15 barrels of powder, and
0 quintals of balls^ for the supi^y of the squa^
dron. Captain Martin de Alvarado y Guzman
was ordered from Guatemala, with 50 soldiers ;
and captain Juan Bautista Chavanria, with 50
more from the province of Chiquimnla: these,
when united to the squadron, increased its force
to 450 men.
They immediately sailed for the island ; f^ld as
the general knew how well the first harbour he
had entered was defended, he thought it expe-
dient to try his fortune at another part of the
island, where there was a smaller one. On land-
321
ixkgj be was received by a body of troops who made
aa.obstmate resistaace; butbavingeffiactedatbteaoh
in the intrenebmeDt with 2 pieces of artillery, tke
Spaniards stormed it, and after a determined cóty^
tsf^r the English were defeated. Sabsequerit to
thia victory the assailants snifered a great deal
before they could reach the town ; for havi&g no
guides, they missed their way, and wandered
about 9 days, exposed to the violence of Üie
s«ui by day, and unhealthy vapours by night:;
their feet were lacerated by the thorns of the co-
yols, and they were tormented by innumerable
swarmd of mosquitoes, ticks, and other venomous
insects and reptiles. On reaehing the town, or
rather tbe village, they found it abandoned by
Ihe English, who had carried all property and
ptovisions on board their ships, and left the
bland entirely. . Yillalva collected the natives,
ana having burned the place, returned. to St. Tho-
mas, in Ihe neighbourhood of which the Indians
bad lands given to them ; this expedition termi-
nated in August, 1650. >
Roatan was deserted from 1650 until 1742,
when the English took possession of it again, and
fortified it with materials which they had carried
off from the city of Truxillo. They maintained
themselves in it until 1780, wheii they were dis-
lodged by the governor of Guatemala. In 1796^
they once moré made themselves mastef^ of it,
and stationed 2000 negroes for its protection. As
soon as this invasion was known in the capital,
the gpvernor ordered the intendantof Comayagua
to send Don José Rossi y Rubia to the island, in
order to ascertain what state these negroes vi^re
in, that, from his information, the necessary ar-
Y
322
rangemeots might be made for its reconqaest. ^Ob
the 17th of May, 1797^ Rossi, with 12 officers, em ^
barked atTruxillo on board a little vessel, armed
with 4 small gans and 12 muskets, and reached^
the harbour of Roatan the following day. On the
beach they saw about 200 men drawn up, armed
with muskets and bayonets, apparently intending
to. resist a landing; on perceiving this, Rossi
alone went on shore^ and advancing to the com-
mander of the troops, proposed terms of capitula-
tion, which were accepted. Those who accom-
panied him then landed, the Spanish flag was
hoisted, and the island taken possession of with
the cudtomary ceremonies. The village on the
northern side was occupied by these republican
negroes ; but the southern side was defended by
Caribs; Rossi and his companions proceeded to
the village of these Indians, and quickly getting
possession of a battery which they had construct-
ed, offeree^ similar terms of capitulation, which
were accepted with as much satisfaction, as they
had been received by the others. Rossi issued
some orders, which the. Caribs promised to obey,
and on the 19th sailed for Truxillo, where be
anchored on the 2l8t.
CHAP. XXVII.
Of the Discovery of the Province of Honduras,
and the Foundation of the principal Cities and
Towns in it.
It was intended not to consult the " General
History of the Indies," in the progress of this
treatise; but the native authors not aflbrdiug
sufficient information relative to the provinces of
S23
Honduras and Nicaragua, it has» been necessary
to makf use of Herrera s History, in order to give
a satisfactory account of these regions.
The province of Honduras was the part of
this kingdom, and indeed of all the North Ame-
rican continent vrhere the Spaniards first landed.
Herrera (dec. 1, lib. 5, cap. 6,) says, that Co-
lumbus arrived on the coast of Honduras in the
year 1502, and landing at Point Casinas on the
17th day of August, Bartholomew Columbus
took possession of the country in the name of the
king of Castile. Columbus did not advance into
the interior^ but continuing his progress along the
coast reached the province of Veraguas; and the
province of Honduras was not explored until 20
years after its first discovery. The inducements
that the Spanish commanders bad for penetrating
into this region were the following. As it is a na-
tural propensity in the human mind to endeavour
to rivals and even to surpass the enterprises of
men who have rendered themselves memorable
by their prowess; as the immortal Columbus had»
succeeded in rendering his name famous to the
remotest posterity, by his discovery of America, an
achievement as important as any one that had, up
to that time, astonished the world ; and as Vasco
Nunez Balboa had made the discovery of the
Great Pacific^ which next to that of the continent
was of the greatest moment, it then became an
object of ambition to find out the channel by
which the South Sea and the Atlantic were con-
nected. . Gil Gopzalex Pavila sailed from the
gulf of St. Michael, in the bay of Panamá, on
the 21st of January, 1522, to search for this pas
s^ge, and examined the coast as far as Chorotega,
y2
V/^
324
which he called the bay of Fonseca, in honour of
the archbishop of Burgos, Juan Rodrigoez de
Fonseca, president of the council of the Indies ;
but not meeting the object of his research in this
direction, he returned to Panaoiá. He soon after-
ward sailed for Hispaniola, and from that island
steered for thexoast of Honduras or Guaimqra,
with the design of seeking for the channel^ which
he conjectured must exist between the two oceans.
He arrived on the coast, and not being able, on
account of bad weather, to enter Puerto Caballos,
was under the necessity of throwing some horses
overboard (from which circumstance the .port
was named), and taking shelter in the gulf of
Dulce : he built a little village near Cape Three
Points, on the eastern side of the gulf, to which
he gave the name of St. Gil de Buena Vista ; this
was the first village the Spaniards occupied in the
province of Honduras. Shortly after the arrival
of Davila on the coast, came Christoval de Olid
(who was sent by Ferdinand Cortes), and landed
in a bay 55 leagues eastward of Dulce, on the
3d of May, 1523, which being the day of the holy
cross, he called the bay Triumph of the Cross;
he also laid the foundation of a town, and gave it
the same appellation. He took possession of the
country in right of the king of Spain, and nomi-
nated alcaldes and regidors of the ne\^ town.
Herrera fixes the date of the foundation of Triun»ph
of the Cross, St. Gil de Buena Vista, and the cities
of Granada and Leoti, in the year 1524; but it
should rather be 1623: for as Cortes returned
to Mexico from Hibueras or Honduras in ISSfi^
after having been upwards of two years absent,
as mentioned by Bernal Diaz del Castillo (chap.
325 ,
)03), OUd'6 arrival at Triumph of the Cross conld
not terf well have been in 1524; as 2 years
appear to be a very short space of time to em-
brace all that took place from his arrival on the
coast till the r^urn of Cortes."^
Cortes having been informed of Olid's revolt»
sent Francisco de las Casas against him, with 2
ships well armed. This officer arrived at Triunfo
de la Cruz^ and Olid immediately put his own
men on board 2 vessels to prevent Las Casas
Irom landing: a battle took place between the
two parties, and lasted nearly the vichóle dayt
Las Casas sunk one of Olid's vessels; but just
as fortune seemed to declare in his favour, a vio-
lent gale arose in which his ships foundered, and
40 of his men were drowned ; the rest saved
themselves by swimming ashore. Olid being vic-
tc»*ious, got together, clothed, and well treated
the remainder of Las Casases people ; and the re^
turn the ingrates made for his kindness was to
mnrder him the first opportunity that offered.
After this treacherous action, Las Casas obtained
qmet possession of the country, and founded the
eity of Truxillo, so called from his native place in
Estremadura^ and which was for a long time the
|)rincipal place in the province. Cortes receiving
no information from Las Casas, determined to go
in person to Honduras by land ; making all neces-
* This coast was called indifferently Guaimura, Las Hibueras,
apd Honduras; it received tbe first name from a village so
called ; tbe second was givf n by tbe first Spaniards wbo visited
itVfrom finding bere abundance of pompions, wbich in Castilian
were called hibueras; the last was given by the Spaniards» wbo
ivhen. they wished to land in Quaimura could not, for a long dis-
tance, find a convenient place, on account of tbe very great
depth (hondura) of the sea on the coast.
326
kárj arrangements for the security of Mexico dar-
ing his absence, he commenced his journey at the
head of a strong detachment. The hardships en-^
dured in traversing the country cannot easily be
described ; they reached the province, and not
far from the giilf of Dulce met with some Spa-
niards, who were collecting sapotes ; from these
persons he received an account of all that had
taken place in the bay of Triunfo de la Cruz and
the valley of Naco ; they also informed him that
the town where Davila's people were residing was
at no great distance. Corrtes directed his march
to that place, which Was called Nito; on arriving
there he found it situated near the sea^ and that
the people had removed thither from St. Gil de
Buena Vista, which was now abandoned. He
was received with the most enthusiastic joy, fof
the inhabitants were much distressed by the
failure of their provisions : he fortunately rwas
enabled to afford them assistance^ as a ship ar-
rived very opportunely from Cuba with a cargo
of hogs, cassava, and other eatables, which he im-
mediately purchased and distributed among those
of Nito. He soon perceived the situation of this
town was neither convenient nor healthy, and
that the scarcity of provision was likely to con-^
tinue, as there were no Indian villages or culti-
vated lands near it; he therefore embarked all
the people of Nito, and conveyed them to Puerto
Caballos, where he laid the foundation of a town
called Natividad ; settled 40 of Davila's peo-
ple in it, and appointed Diego de Godoi go-
vernor. (Bernal Diaz, cap. 181.) This place
also was abandoned, for it was found to be even
more unhealthy than the one they had come
327
from, as one half their number died within a very
short time, and Godoi with the survivors retnmed
by order of Cortes to Naco. This was then the best
town in the province of Honduras» well peopled,
and abundantly supplied with provisions ; the
water, in the opinion of Diaz, was better than any
he had met with in America. Gonzalo de Sando-
val, with some soldiers, was sent there to keep the
country in subjection, and to lay the foundation
of another town; but on arriving at Naco he
found it had been deserted. On the 11th of April,
Pedro de Alvarado arrived with a commission as
governor and captain-general of the kingdom of
Guatemala; he came from Mexico with all pos-
sible expedition, on receiving intelligence that
Martin Estete, acting under the orders of Pe-
drarias, had invaded the provinces of Chapar-
rastique and Cuzcatlan, now called St. Miguel
and St. Salvador, and on this account brought
with him a reinforcement of 80 soldiers ; but
on reaching the capital he found Estete had re-
treated, and that 90 of his men were then in the
city; these 90, and the 80 who had accom-
panied him from Mexico, were sent under the
command of his brother Diego de Alvarado,
to build a town in the province of Tecultran, to
which he gave the name of St. George de Olan-
chito.
In the year 1536, the inhabitants of Naco, and
indeed of the whole province, were in a state of
violent commotion ; there was a dissension among
the king's officers, and party feelings had pro-
duced a great degree of excitement. The inhabi-
tants were much exasperated by the severe go-
verninent of Cereceda, a loan of a cruel and ty-^
S28
raonk diipoeition ; the Indians had revolted and
fled to the mountains, in consequence of ii^bich
there was the greatest scarcity of every kind of
I^rdvisioiis. in this state offemine; they réprer
seated their distress to Pedro de Alvarado, and
most earnestly supplicated assistance. The go-
vernor set out immediately for Naco, where hé
was received with great joy, as it was conjectured
his presence would produce a speedy remedy for
all the evils they were suffering. In fact his arri-
val quickly changed the situation of affairs ; the
governor Andres de Cereceda finding himself su-
perseded in authority, and fearing the welt-merited
punishment of his excesses, cunningly tendered
his resignation, in the hopes of evading it ; volun*
tarily giving up what he would have been deprived
of by force. Alvarado accepted it, he appointed
justices to inquire into abuses, and with the an-*
thority and ability of an experienced commander,
adopted measures for calming the discontents ;
he then proceeded to Puerto Caballos, where he
founded the town of St. Juan, supplying it with a
stock of cattie and other necessaries at his own
expense; about 11 leagues from this place, he
founded the city of St, Pedro Zula ; and as the for-
mer was inhabited by factors, traders, and negroes,
the latter was occupied by the officers of govern-
ment; the situation was considered moresalubrious
than that of St. Juan : but when the rendezvous of
the shipping was removed to the gulf of Dulce, St*
Juan was abandoned, and the population of St.
Pedro greatly diminished. After the settlements
of St. Juan and St. Pedro, Alvarado sent Juan
Chaves with the greater part of the troops to
search for a convenient^ituation for another town»
32D'
about midway between the provinces of Hondo-
ras and Guatemala, by which the commerce and
communiéatíon betweeh the two places might bé
facilitated. Chaves spout a lodg time in looking
for a spot that would present the desired advam
tages, but without success ; at last on arriving at
a level tract, the soldiers exclaimed, " Thank God
(Gracias a Dios), we have found a proper place !*•
and from this circumstance the tovi^n built there
was called Gracias a Dios.* The prosperity of
the place in^creased so rapidly, in conisequence of
some gold mines having been discovered near it,
that in 1544^ only 8 years after its foundation^
it was one of the most flourishing towns in the
kingdom ; and the royal audiencia of the confines
of Guatemala and Nicaragua, that by the king's
* A similar circumstance gave rise to the name of Ca{>e
Gracias a Dios ; Columbus having arrived at Point Casinas in
August, 1502, kept a westerly course, contending, with great
difficulty, against the wind and a strong current, until he wea-»
ther^d a headland stretching far into the sea, and firom which
the land trends away to the southward, when he kept his in-
tended course with ease ; the sailors thanked God for having
doubled the Ciipe, and it then received its appellation of Cape
Gracias a Dios. The similitude of name between the two
places, occasioned Herrera to confound the city Gracias a Dios,
with the village that was built near Cape Gracias a Dios. In
his ** Descripción de las Indias," fol. 27, he says that the cit^
Gracias a Dios was founded in the year 1530, by the captain
Gabriel Roxas, but it being abandoned, was repeopled in 1536,
by Gonzalo de Alvarado ; this does not accord with what the
same author says in his Década 6, fol. 13, just quoted; for
if Alvarado gave orders in 1536, to choose a proper place for
building the city, it manifestly could not have had its origin
HI 1530 ; and when he asserts that Roxas founded Gracias «
Dios in 1530, he must be understood to speak of the village near
Cape Gracias a Dios, which in his Década 4, fol. 41, he actually
refers to that year, as being founded by Roxas and soon añer-
ward abaddoned ; apd when he speaks, in his 6th Decade be-
fore mentioned, of Juan Chaves founding Gracias a Dios in
15Í96, he evidentíy alludes to the city.
330
order should have been fixed at Cooiay^ua, was
established in Gracias a Dioa, as being a more
important place than the other. Of the mines
discovered within the jurisdiction of the city, the
richest was that of St. Andres de Nueva Zaragosa ;
this is in a mountain of the vidley of Sensenti, to
the west of the city, and on the east of the valley
of Copan, 60 leagues north-east from the city of
Guatemala ; the fable of the golden mountaio
seems to have been verified here. Fuentes asserts
that with no other instrument than a wooden
stake, poor people went to the mountain, and by
merely scratching np the sand, found grains of
the precious metal. He also says that in a mine
belonging to Bartolomé Marin de Sanabria^ more
than a pound of gold a day was collected by
the labour of himself and 1 slave only. The
strongest proof that can be adduced of the riches
of this mountain, was the appointment of an
alcalde mayor for the purpose of superintending
the working of the mines, and receiving the king's
fifths ; this officer was invested with plenary juris-
diction, both in civil and criminal matters, within
the boundaries of the mines, and had the power
of compelling a fourth part of the Indians, within
a circuit of 12 leagues» to labour in them. These
sources of wealth that were so famous for more
than 100 years are now entirely exhausted, and
the alcaldía extinguished.
In the year 1536, the king appointed Don Fran-
cisco Montejo governor of Honduras ; this officer
vvas then in Mexico, and sent Alonzo de Caceres
to take possession of his government as hi^ lieu-
tenant : on arriving at Gracias a Dios, he assumed
the command, dismissed the alcaldes and regidors^
331.
appointed others, and sent an account of his pro^
ceedings to Montejo, who immediately set out
from Mexico ; on arriving at the seat of his new
government, he made a distribution of lands, and
exerted himself with great industry as well as
prudence, to promote intercourse and good under-
standing with the neighbouring Indian villages.
He sent Caceres on an expedition against the
province of Cerquin to subdue its cacique^ the
brave Lempira, who had fortified himself in a
strong post on a height, where he had a garrison
of 30,000 soldiers, and defied his assailants for
more than 6 months, when he was accidentally
killed. By the death of Lempira, Montejo was
relieved from the war against Cerquin, and the
country being entirely pacified, he ordered Ca-
ceres to find out an eligible situation for a town,
about midway between the two great oceans. In
obedience to these directions, he explored the
country, and pitched upon a spot in the valley of
Comayagua, where he marked out a town that
was called Santa Maria de Comayagua. It was
intended txy means of this place to obtain an easy
communication with the Atlantic and the Pacific ;
its situation being about halfway between Puerto
Caballos and the bay of Fonseca^ would render
it a convenient intermediate depot ; the climate
being healthy, and the soil fertile, much of the
sickness and waste of human life would be pre-
vented ; many of the fatigues and privations avoid-
ed that were usually experienced in the journey
from Nombre de Dios to Panamá. When these
circumstances were communicated to the king of
f Spain, he commanded an engineer, Bautista An-
tonelli, to survey the proposed route, and examine
332
carefully, ii^hethertbe fácilitim of establishing tbis
line of communication really i^ere so great as bad
been represented to him; the engineer having
finished his operations^ reported that the diffi-
culties would greatly overbalance the advantages,
and the design was laid aside.
The foundation of Santa Maria de Comayagua
was not suspended in consequence of this adverse
report, and the town hicreased rapidly ; it soon
became the capital of the province of Honduras,
the residence of the governors and the episcopal
seat. The books of the cabildo having been
destroyed by fire, much of its history remains in
obscurity ; enough, however, is known to prove
that it was founded in 1542, as appears from a
royal edict of July 5, 1557, which states "that it
is now 15 years since it was first inhabited;" by a
royal order, dated September 13th, 1543, the
king commands that the new audiencia of the con-
fines of Guatemala and Nicaragua shall reside in
Comayagua, which was then to be called New
Valladolid. On the 20th of December, 1557, the
title and franchises of a city were granted to it.
In the following year, 1558, on the 17th of Sep-
tember, Gonzalo de Carvajar was appointed by
the royal audiencia of Guatemala, inspector of
weights and measures (fiel executor), and on the
20th of September, it was decreed by the same
authority, that the 3 regidors of the city, appointed
by the royal chancery, were not to be perpetual,
but that those who served the office 1 year,
were to elect 3 successors for the following year ;
this number was afterward augmented. In the
yeaT 1561, the cathedral church of Honduras,
until then held- in Tnrxillo, was transferred to
333
New Valladolid ; this was done at the interces-
sioa of the bishop Gerónimo de Corella, who ob-
tained a licence, both from the king>and the pope,
for the removal of his see. In 1574, Bernardino
Perez, provincial of the order of SI Francis,
visited the provinces of Zonsonaté, St. Salvador,
and Honduras, for the purpose of establishing
convents of his order, in obedieoce to the royal
pleasure promulgated ou the 11th of August,
1573, and on his arrival in the city of Comaya-*
jgua founded the convent of St. Antonio.
CHAP. XXVIII.
Of the Discovery and Settlement of the Province
of Nicaragua. i
In the year 1516, Hernán Ponce and Barto-
lomé Hurtado, officers under the command of
Pedrarias Davila, governor of Darien, discovered
the gulf of Chira (at present called Nicoya,
though originally named by the Spaniards St.
Lucar), but they did not Iftnd. Six years after-
ward, on the 2 1st of January, 1622, Gil Gon-
zalez Davila, with the pilot, Andres Niñó^ sailed
from the gulf of St. Miguel, and keeping close
along shore to the Westward ^ about 100 leagues,
they found the bottoms of their ships were fouJ,
and so much injured by worms, as to make it ne-
cessary to careen and Repair them ; to do this they
wiere laid on shore. During the time occupied
by these repaii^, Davila, with 100 men, advanced
inland to explore the country, passing with diffi-
culty through sWamps, where they ivcre some-
times f(f reed :to ooiistruct' rafts to be enabled to
334
continue their progress. In this expedition they
had interviews with several caciques, whom they
found were not averse to become Christians : the
most powerful of these chiefs was Nicoya, who,
with all his vassals, consented to receive the rite
of baptism, after which ceremony he presented
Davila with a quantity of gold of 13 carats, to the
value of 14,000 dollars, and 6 idols made of the
same precious metal, telling him ^^ to take the
latter away, as he now had no farther occasion for
them.'* In return, he received a few presents of
Spanish articles, when Davila took his leave and
proceeded into the territories of the cacique, Nica-
ragua, whose dominions were more extensive than
those of Nicoya ; the Spaniards sent to assure
him of their peaceable intentions, and he willingly
invited them to his capital, when he presented
them with a large quantity of linen and orna-
mental feathers, besides 25^000 dollars' worth of
gold ; in return for this compliment, Davila gave
him a silk cloak, a scarlet cap, and some other
ornaments. This favourable opportunity of ex-
patiating on the benefits arising from embracing
'Christianity was not lost, and an ecclesiastic who
attended the expedition, explained to him some of
its precepts. Nicaragua asked many questions
relative to its doctrines, which shewed him to
possess considerable talent and intelligence; in
fact, he was the only Indian who had ever exhi-
bited any thing like curiosity or acuteness on the
subject. He was convinced by the explanations
given, or at least, so well pleased with them, that
he became a convert, and 9000 of his subjects
followed the example. Davila after this success
examined a great part of the province of Nica-
335
rágaa» and the lake of Granada, after which he
returned to Panama ; and at the latter end of the
jear 1522, went to Hispaniola.
While Gonzalez Davila was in Hispaniola,^
Pedrarias Davila exerted his utmost efforts to
form settlements in Nicaragua, alleging Chat the
country belonged to him, because some of his
officers had discovered it in 1516, before Gonzalez
arrived at Nicoya. With this intention, Fran-^
cisco Fernandez de Cordova set out from Panama
io 1523, at the head of some troops that Pedrariaa
placed under his command. Having arrived in
the gulf of Nicoya, he landed and founded a
town called Bruselas, which, however, only ex-
isted 4 years, for, in 1527, Diego Lopez SaU
cedo ordered it to be dismantled. He advanced
about 30 leagues farther on, into the province
called Nequecheri, and laid the foundation of
the city of Granada on the margin of the lake ;
he adorned it with a sumptuous church, and
erected a fortress for its defence^ he carried with
him the pieces ready framed for constructing a
brigán tine, in which he surveyed the lake, and
found that it communicated by means of a river
with the sea to the northward ; the river however
was not navigable for the vessel. He afterward
established the city of Leon, in the centre of the
province of Imabite, and fortified it in order to
defend himself against Gil Gonzalez, who was
marching towards him by Olaucho, and also asa
protection against the Indians, who, to the nurn-
ber of 15,000, inhabited the neighbouring country.
A few years afterward, Pedrarias founded the
city of New Segovia. The general and extraor-
dinary cortes wishing to testify their approbation
336
of the fidelity shewn by the ayuntamiento of this
city, during the political agitations that took
place in the province of Nicaragua, granted to it
the title of Muy noble y leal (very noble and
loyal) by a decree of December 8th, Í81 2. There
was al^ in this province another city called New
Jaen, situated between the lake of Granada and
the sea, and northward of the river St. Juan ;
Gabriel de Roxas first began to settle it, by order
of Diego Lopez Salcedo, in conformity to in*
strnctions sent by the king for establishing a
settlement near the embouchure of the lake, for
the purpose of ascertaining whether the river
was navigable to the sea, and afforded a commu*
nication between the two oceans. The governor
of the province was soon afterward superseded»
New Jaen neglected, and there is not now a ves-
tige remaining to mark its situation.
Besides the cities just enumerated, there are
the town and port of Realejo, otherwise called
Jaguei, or Cardón. This town was not established
either by the governors of Nicaragua^ or Terra
Fiitna, but by some of the iuhabitants of Gua^
témala, who set out with Pedro de Alvarado ort
his expedition to Peru in 1534, and stopping here
lor the purpose of building some ships for the
armament, they ascertained the safety and other
conveniences of the harbour, and determined to
establish themselves in it ; from the small nnm^
ber of 'Settlers, the place received the diminutive
appellation of Realejo: there is perhaps hot a
better harbour in the Spanish monarchy, and
there are very few in the known world superior
to it; in the first plate it is capable of containing
1000 vessels óommodiously ; affording dean and
337
good ancliorage in every part, and ships may lay
close to the shore without the smallest risk or
danger; there is not the most trifling impediment
to the passage in or out^ and new vessels may be
launched at all seasons, without the least obstruc-
tion. The conveniences for ship-building cannot
be surpassed, as timber, cordage, sail-cloth, pitch,
and tar may be procured in great abundance ; the
supply of masts is inexhaustible. This branch
of commerce might be most advantageously car-
ried on, in fact a great number of vessels of all
sizes were formerly constructed here, and were
held in such high estimation, that Fuentes men-
tions that a galleon built in Realejo was sold at
Callao for 100,000 dollars. The harbour could
be placed in a respectable state of defence with
the greatest ease, as a few pieces of cannon
mounted in battery on the islet of Cardón would,
from its eminence, completely command the en-
trance, and effectually protect the port. There
was formerly a different channel into the harbour,
from the one now used ; originally the passage
was between the point of Isle Cardón, and the
peninsula of Qastañon, and ships proceeded up
the river to the landing place at a village called
Nuestra Señora del Viejo ; but the fall of immense
quantities of rock, both from the Isle Cardón and
the point of Castañon, during a violent earth-
quake, has made this passage impracticable ; the
present channel lies between the north point of
Cardón and the isle of Icacos, whence vessels
have a clear course, and may run up with their
bowsprits almost into the town.
The general cortes assembled at Cadiz, granted
by a decree of January 10, 1812, permission fop
z
338
the city of Leon to erect a university, and endowed
it with 8iich privileges as belong to the other
seats of science in America ; by another decree
emanating from the same authority, in the same
year, the province of Nicaragua was privileged to
hold a provincial assembly composed of deputies
from the districts of Leon, Costarica, Granada,
Segovia, Nicaragua, Matagalpa, and Nicoya^
vi^hich assembly was installed for the first time in
the month of October, 1813.
CHAP. XXIX.
The Revolt of Rodrigo de Contreras,
Pedrarias Da VILA, the conqueror and first
governor of Nicaragua, died in July, 1531 ; in
1534, Rodrigo de Contreras, who had married
Maria Peñalosa, daughter of Davila, succeeded
to the government of the province. While he held
this command, the nevi laws, which prohibited all
governors and officers of the crown from holding
Indians as their property, arrived from Spain ;
to evade this order, Contreras made overall those
that belonged to him to his wife and sons. At the
same period the audiencia of the confines was also
instituted, and that tribunal sent the licentiate
Herrera, one of its judges, to examine into some
alleged abuses in the administration of Contreraa.
Many charges were exhibited against him, and as
it was ascertained that the transfer, which had
been made to his wife and sons, was not executed,
as the deeds imported, a year before, but subse-
quent to the promulgation of the new law, the
Indians were taken from their pretended owners
339
and confiscated to the use of the crown ; whicb
decree of the judge was confirmed by the royal
chancery. Contreras embarked immediately for
Spain, to exculpate himself from the charges, and
solicit restitution of the, Indians that had been
.taken from him ; in this he was unsuccessful, and
' the council of the Indies ratified. the sentence of
the audiencia. Hernando Contreras, determined
to resent what he conceived to be an injury done
to his father, and being encouraged by some sol*-
diers who had come to Nicaragua from Peru,
determined to try his fortune by a revolt ; with
this intention he provided a quantity of arms, and
enlisted a number of partisans. The rebellioq
commenced with the murder of the. bishop An^
tonki de Valdivieso, who was killed by Contreraé,
Mr it is said, on account of a quarrel that the pre*
late had Imd with Contreras the father. The next
&tep "wsis to carry oflTthe episcopal treasury, and
the government chest, with which the rebels left
the city, exclaiming, •* Liberty, long live princ^
Contreras." Hernando increased the number of
hja followers, collected more arms and horses,
and sent emissaries to Granada, whence he ob^
tained another accession of strength. Witfi the
people whoQo he had assembled frcHu Leon and
Granada, and the soldiers from Peru, who had
been disgraced and banished f^om that kingdom,
he proceeded to Realejo^ where he seized 2
ships then in the harbour. With so prosperous
a beginning, Contreras and his followers were
greatly elated : they deliberated among themselves
upon a plan of operations, and determined to sail
for Panamá, to get possession of that place and
Nombre de Dios ; thence to make their way tO
z 2
340 »
Peru^and excite the people to rebellioD; in a word^
Hernando was to be declared king of that country,
his brother Pedro was to be made lord of exten-
sive provinces, and all their soldiers to be loaded
with riches. >In this delirium they commenced
their voyage, and fortune seemed to favour their
designs. On the passage they captured some
ships, and made themselves masters of others that
were lying in the harbour of Panamá; the charge
of the vessels was given to Pedro; Hernando
landed with the troops and took possession of die
town, making the bishop^ the treasurer, the alguacil
mayor, and several other, persons of distinction
prisoners; after plundering the inhabitants pf
whatever could be carried off, they marched to
Nombre de Dios. The inhabitants of Panamá
took advantage of their absence, to fortify and
supply themselves as well as circumstances would
permit, and when Juan Bermejo, one of Cou-
treras' officers, returned the same night to keep
possession of the town. they would not permit
him to enter; the troops he had with him being
unable to force a passage, he retired and encamp-
ed upon a little eminence at no great distance ; in
this position he was attacked by the king's troops,
whom he repulsed ; a second attempt was made
with better success, the rebels were defeated, 82
being killed, many taken prisoners, and the rest
dispersed ; Bermejo was among the killed. When
Hernando heard of this misfortune, he attempted
to escape by the way of Nata, and was afterward
found dead in a swamp; Pedro beiqg apprised
of his brother's defeat, put to sea with his ships
and returned to Point Iguera, where, perceiving
he was likely to be attacked by 4 ships from
I
341
r¿ Panamá, he landed with all his followers ; Ni-
cholas Zamorano with some soldiers disembarked
" frooi the Panamá ships in pursuit of Contreras;
and captured 30 of his men, the rest, 8 or 10 in
Í number, followed their commander, and were
never heard of after. The victory at Panamá was
obtained on the 23d of April, 1549, the anniver-
sary of which, being St. George s day, has ever
since been celebrated with great solemnity in the
cathedral. — (Remesal, lib. 8, cap. 19, et seq.)
CHAP. XXX.
Of the Province of Costa Rica.
The name originally given to this province leads
to a supposition that it was distinguished in former
times by great wealth, either from the mines of
gold, silver, and copper, that it contained, or
from its commerce, which was in a very flou-
rishing state, at the period Porto Bello was the
rendezvous of the galleons. Whatever naight
once have been its importance, it is very certain
that at the present time its condition is very de-
plorable; the population is reduced almost to
nothing ; commerce is annihilated ; and the mines
are no longer worked : in fact, a province that in
many respects merited particular attention, is
now so much neglected, that none of the writers
of this kingdom, or foreigners, take any notice of
it. In order tp give some few traits of the history
of this district, it has been necessary to examine
a report made in 1744, by Don José de Mier y
Ceballos, to the engineer Don Luis Diez Navarro,
who was sent into the province as inspector-ge-
342 . .
neral of tbe garrisons, kc. Ceballos was a nttttve
of the city of Cartago, and says» in the preface to
bis report, that having on various occasions held
tbe office of lieutenant-governor, he had many op-
portunities of examining tbe archives of the em-
budo in that city, in which be found tbe royal
edicts^ orders, and other records upon wbich
be drew up tbe information communicated by
him.
He states, that in the archives of Cartago, be
found documents dated so early as 152^, from
which it may be inferred that the cities of Costa
Rica are the most ancient of the kingdom, and
also that this was the first part of Guatemala sub-
dued by the Spaniards; for, if so early as 1522^
the year in which Gil Gonzalez Davila made his
first entrance into Nicoya and Nicaragua, the
capital of Costa Rica was of sufficient conse-
quence to require the residence of a government
secretary, it is clear that it must have been one
of the earliest founded by the Spaniards. Juan
Solano and Alvaro de Acuña ajre the officers to
whom the original conquest is attributed ; when
George de Alvarado entered the province he sub-
dued the villages of Turrialba and Sucrre, oa
this account the possession of tbe former place
was granted to him for 3 lives, viz. of himself,
his son, and nephew. It appears by an edict pre^
served among the records, that the first governor
and captain-general of Costa Rica, was Diego de
Astieda Chirinos, to whom the king granted tbe
office for life, and for the life of one of his sons \
and prescribed the boundariesof his jurisdiction,
which were to extend on the sea-coast of tbe At-
lantic, from the mouth of the River St. Juan to
343 ^
the island Escudo de Veraguas ; and on the Pa-
cific Ocean from the River Nicoya to the River
Boruca.
, St. Jago de Cartago is the capital of the pro-
vince ; it received from Philip the Second, on the
18th of August, 1565, a grant of armorial bear-
ings, viz. on the superior part of a shield, a lion,
Or, on a field, azure; on the inferior part, a castle,
Or, on a field, gules, a bordure, argent, with 6
eagles, and the motto ** Fide et pace:" in this city
the Spaniards and Ladinos inhabit separate quar*
ters; in that occupied by the latter there is a
sanctuary dedicated to Nuestra Señora de los
Angeles^ vvrhich is much frequented by the people
of the surrounding country, on account of a mi^
raculous image said to have been discovered by a
female Indian in a stone. The first situation of
Cartago was near the village now called Garabito,
close to the harbour of La Caldera, and^tfae city
of Esparza : it was next transferred to a spot not
iar from the River Taras, and afterward removed
to its present site.
The city St. Espiritu de Esparza^ was origiui-
ally situated* on an eminence, indistinctly sect}
from the harbour of La Caldera, but some years
afterward transferred to the position where it
now standi, as more convenient for participating
in the advantages of the neighbouring harbour»
as well as affording better land for the purposes
of agriculture. It rose into prosperity in ^ short
time, from the commerce carried on with Panamá^
and the kingdom of Peru ; its population was
considerably and the ayuntamiento respectable,
the alcalde mayor usually filling the office of áe*
puty governor.
344
The whole province was well peopled, the ara-
ble lands in a good state of cultivation, the pas-
tures covered with cattle> horses and mules, in
which a considerable trade was carried on with
Carthagena and Puerto Bello, from the harbour
of Matina ; and with Panamá and other ports
of the Pacific, from La Caldera. Its prosperity
and riches exciting the cupidity of adventurers^
in the year 1666, a body of 1200 men disem-
barked in the port of Matina or Moin, and im-
mediately marched towards Cartago. As soon
as intelligence of this invasion, by a combined
force of French and English pirates, reached the
city, the governor marched with all the force he
could muster towards the village of Turrialba,
10 leagues from Cartago, by which the enemy
must of necessity pass. Having nearly reached
the village, he took post on an eminence that
commanded it; the enemy had taken up their
quarters in the village, and at day-break before
they were ready to march, the Spaniards beat to
arms on the hill^ with as much noise as they could
possibly make, and opened a fire upon them ; by
this unexpected attack, the invaders were thrown
into confusion and made a precipitate retreat
towards their ships ; the Spaniards pursued them
a little distance, and having made a few prisoners
returned to Cartago ; the captives were for some
reason or another put to the torture, most proba-
bly for the purpose of building a miracle upon
their confessions, as they were made to declare
that the cause of their taking to flight so hastily,
was, seeing immediately after their quarters had
been beaten up by the Spaniards, a numerous
army on the height commanded by a female ; in
345
confirmation of this declaration several of thera
became Catholics, married and settled in the pro-
vince. This host of warriors, with the heroine at
their head, could be no other than the holy Virgin
with an army of saints, who had hastened to
the protection of the faithful, and consequently
was entitled to more thah ordinary veneration ;
therefore the governor, cabildo, and inhabitants
unanimously chose her to be their patron, and
promised to go annually in procession to the
sanctuary of Ujarraz, 2 leagues from the city,
to worship her image ; this august ceremony con-
tinues to be performed in the month of May, even
at the beginning of the 19th century.
^A few years afterward the pirates in the Paci-
fic, upon two occasions, attacked Esparza, plun-
dered, and set it on tíre: left by these disasters
in so ruinous a state, it was abandoned by the
inhabitants, some of whom went to Nicaragua,
and others retired to their possessions ^in the
country. On the coast of the Atlantic many at-
tempts were made by Morgan, Lorenzillo, and
other bucaniers, with various success; the Mosco
Indians made frequent incursions by the harbour
of Matina, and usually carried off cocoa, slaves,
servants, or in fact whatever they could obtain.
The incessant acts of hostility to which the inha-
bitants were exposed, induced the king of Spain
to station a company of 100 soldiers, with pro-
per officers, in the province, to protect it from
such insults.
346
CHAP. XXXI.
Of the Conquest of Tologatpa.
The historian Francisco Vasquez details at
great length the conversion of the idolaters of
Tolagalpa and Taguzgalpa, in the 1st treatise of
his 5th book. . In this and the following chapter
it is intended to give a compressed history of these
events» omitting many particulars^ vrhich, althoi;^h
curious, would extend the account much beyond
the limits of a compendium. On referring to the
descriptions of these provinces in the former parts
of this work, it will be observed that Taguzgalpa
extends along the shore of the Atlantic from west
to east ; from the River Aguan to Cape Gracias a
Dios; Tolagal pastretches 'from north to south,
from that cape to the {liver St. Juan ; the River
Tinto dividing one province from the other. Al-
though the natives of the^e regions are known by
the general names of Xicaques, Moscos, and Sam-
bos, they are composed of many nations ; some
are called Lencas, others Payas, Albatuinas,
Tahuas, Jaras, Taos, Gaulas^ Fantasmas, Iztles»
Motucas^ and many others ; all these nations
speak different languages, have distinct govern-
ments, manners, and customs ; and they are also
distinguished by variety of colour, some are white,
others black, and others red or copper colour.
Information relative to the tribes inhabiting the
northern shores had reached Spain^ and some
mention had been made of them in decrees, dated
30th of October, 1547, 31st of August, 1560, and
2,d of July, 1594 ; in the latter, Philip the Second
commanded that a minute detail of all circum-
347
stances regarding the native inbabitaots, and of
the best means that could be adopted for recon-
ciling them to the Spanish government, should
be transmitted to him. About the same period
Francisco Salcedo and Antonio' de Andrada,
two ^xlesiastics endued with religious fervour,
^deavoured to penetrate to the interior of these
provinces, and try how far it was practicable to
introduce Christianity among the natives. Estevan
Verdelete, another 2ealous promoter of the same
benevolent plan, made every possible effort to
cómtrience thie work of regeneration. In the year
1593, he joined a mission under Pedro de Arbo-
leda^ and as long as he remained in Guatemala,
veas incessant in his endeavours to procure an
opportunity of carrying his design into execution ;
this was at length obtained, for in the year 160^
he was dected guardian of Comayagua, an em-,
pioyment which he accepted with the greatest
joy; for as this city is only a short distance from
these provinces, the means of getting into them
would be greatly increased and facilitated by his
resid^ice there. He communicated his design to
the provincial, who granted a licence to proceed
with his object, and to take such measures as might
appear to him the most conducive to the conver-
sion of the infidels.
On the arrival of Verdelete at Comayagua, he
diligently set about inquiring by what route he
could most readily effect an ingress into the ter^-
jritories of the Xicaques^ Having obtained some
information, and reconnoitred the nature of the
country, he determined upon making bis iSlrst at-
tempt by the river of New Segovia,( under the
guidance of «ome Indians, to whom he explained
348
his design ; they assisted bim, in all appearance^
to the utmost of their abilities, but the traitors^
after haying conducted him and his companion
Juan de Monteagudo into the mountains, deserted
and left them in a frightful wilderness, without
food, without a guide, and deprived of all human
assistance. Thus abandoned, their fortitude did
not forsake them ; they calculated their position,
as nearly as they could, by the course of the
stars, and after incalculable fatigues and difficul-
ties, made their way through wilds and over pre-
cipices, that to minds of less strength would have
opposed impassable barriers, until they succeed-
ed in escaping from the labyrinth they were in-
volved in, and returned in safety to Comayagua;
they immediately afterward set out for Guatemala
to assist at the provincial synod, held in 1606.
Verdelete requested permission from this assem-
bly to proceed to Spain, for the purpose of ex-
plaining to the king what means ought to be taken
to ensure the conversion of the Pagan population
of Honduras. This demand was granted, and he
was also furnished with powers to vote in the
name of the provincial synod, at the general
chapter of the Franciscan order that had been
convoked in Toledo. He immediately departed
for Spain, and on his arrival there made a report
to the royal council of the great population and
barbarous state of the inhabitants ; of the defi-
iciency of competent ministers to take in hand their
instruction, and explain the advantages that would
result from their embracing Christianity ; he also
proposed the most efficacious methods of obtain-
ing this object. From his report, the supreme
council was fully convinced of the importance of
349
the undertaking, and a decree was issued on the
17th of December, 1607, commanding that Este-
van Verdelete should be supplied, out of the royal
reven ues» with whatever might be, necessary for
his subsistence^ and all the aid he might require ;
that he should . be allowed to select 8 persons to
assist him in the reduction of the Xicaques ; that
he should be authorized to establish convents of
the new converts, if such a measure should ap-
pear to him expedient, in any of the villages he
.might form, provided the number of such convents
did not exceed 6, and which were, to be subject
to the provincial of Guatemala. Finally, the
president, the bishops of Comayagua and Nicara^
gua, and -the prelates of his order, were strictly
enjoined not to impede his operations; and, on
the contrary, were strongly recommended to as-
sist, with all their powers, in the prosecution of
this arduous enterprise.
On the 13th of October, 1608, Verdelete re-
turned to Guatemala, at the bead of a mission
consisting of 28 persons, including the 8 specified
in the decree for this particular service; he was
also the bearer of the order of the supreme
council. He wished to proceed immediately to
Tologalpa; but the arrangements he found it ne-
cessary to make, detained him another year in
Guatemala, before they were fully completed. In
October, 1609, he quitted the capital with his par-
ticular friend and companion, Juan de Monteagu-
do; and in passing through Comayagua they
added to their society Juan de Vaide, curate of
Olancho, Andres -Marcuello, vicar of the con-
vent of that city, captain Daza, and 3 other Spa-
niards of Olancho, who being acquainted with
i
350
the country, and devoted to the interests of their
religion, readily joined the party. These indefa-
tigable men continued their journey to New Se-
govia, and entered the mountain district by the
route of the River Gnayape. For several days
their progress v^as through sterile virilds ; they
passed many rivers, some in canoes, others on
rafts, and at last came in sight of some hovels of
the natives. The Indians advanced to meet them,
bringing large quadtities of flowers, which they
strewed upon the ground, or threw, upon the
persons of the party : they were attended by a
sort of music, to \Vhich they danced, and shewed
many other demonstrations of excessive joy:
there were, however, some among them painted
black, with plumes of feathers on their heads and
lances in their hands, apparently more inclined
for war than a peaceable interview; this made
the visitants suspect treachery.
The zealous missionaries commenced the work
of regeneration without loss of time ; a large
cross was erected, around which they assembled
as many Indians as they could collect, and ex-
plaining to them, as well as circumstances would
permit, some of the sacred mysteries, made a brief
recapitulation of the Holy Scriptures from the
creation of the world to the coming of the Re-
deemer. Verdelete declared he would pass the
remainder of his life among them, if necessary, to
instruct them in the way of salvation. After this
discourse it was proposed to cover in á place
with boughs of trees, to be used as a church, and
the Indians with great expedition formed a large
hut for that purpose, besides several smaller ones
as habitations for the fathers. Every eflfort was
351
made to obtain the good will of the natives, by
kindness and caresses, theadnlts were instructed,
and the children^ baptized : the success was so
great, that although the Indians were discovered
only at the latter end of January, yet by the 24th
of February, which was Ash- Wednesday, there
were many whose conversion was so far com-
pleted that they received baptism. The season
of Lent was passed in giving instruction to such
of the stragglers as came from the recesses of
the mountains: processions were made, at which
they assisted : Passion week was celebrated, and
some, who were thought sufficiently capable of
understanding the nature of the rites, admitted
as communicants; others attended the pub-
lic worship with every appearance of sincere
devotion. Th^ exertions of the ministers were
compensated by 130 converts, besides the bap-
tism of many children; it being now ascer-
tained that the tribes in this district were very
numerous, more assistants were deemed neces-
sary ; Verdelete therefore wrote to the provin-
cial of Guatemala to give an account of the pro-
gress that had been made, and to represent the
want they were in of a reinforcement of mission-
aries.
While these unwearied labourers were exulting
in the success of their work, difficulties unex-
pectedly presented themselves ; the Lencas and
Mexicans who lived together, for some cause or
another disagreed, and great dissensions took
place between them ; to these disputes Verdelete
was able to apply a remedy speedily, by separat-
ing the two tribes, and placing them in distinct
quarters under the superintendence of different
352
ministers. The next disaster was of a more se-
rious nature, for the unconverted conceived a vio-
lent hatred against the converted Indians, as well
as against their instructors, and impelled by a
blind passion for revenge, formed a scheme of
setting ñre to the village ; but before putting this-
into execution, they contrived, by using promises
and threats, to induce the Lencas and Teguacas
to quit their dwellings secretly. The mission-
aries observing that the numbers of these 2 na-
tions decreased every day, began to look into
the cause of this unexpected secession, and very
cautiously made inquiries among the children,
from one of which they ascertained that the wild
Indians intended to burn them, and that they
were to be thrown into the fire that very night.
It was evening when this alarming intelligence
was obtained ; Verdelete immediately communi-
cated it to his brethren, exhorting them to be firm,
and still persevere in their undertaking; he was
himself enthusiastically devoted to this service,
and impressed upon the minds of his companions
that it would be more glorious for them all to
suffer martyrdom, than relinquish the Work they
had commenced. In the midst of these pious in-
citements, about midnight they were roused by
horrid yells, and, rushing out of the hut, perceived
the whole village in fiames ; great numbers of the
Indians, who had blackened themselves to be the
more terrific, were running about, some armed
with lances, and others carrying torches, with
which they were setting fire to the hut that had
been erected for the church. Verdelete seized a
crucifix and ran towards them ; his resolute de-
meanour repressed their fury, and he severely up-
353
braided them for the baseness and treachery of
their conduct; animated by this example, all the
other missionaries, and the rest of the party, sallied
forth $tgainst the Indians, now in some degree
awed, and threatened them with the vengeance of
God, if they persisted in the atrocious attempt;
assuring them that they did not fear to die, but
that their death would draw down innumerable
evils upon those who might occasion it : so much
courage, and the dreadful punishments denounced
against them, alarmed the idolaters to such a de-
gree that they fled hastily to conceal themselves in
the mountains. At day-break, the Spaniards found
they were alone, and on visiting the'diflFerent
places where the Indians had dwelt, could not dis-
cover a living creature in them. The missionaries
now determined upon returning to Guatemala, to
give an account of what had happened.
On arriving in the city they were received with
every testimony of joy for their escape ; they made
a report to the president of all the occurrences
that had taken place, and as the attempt at re-
ducing these nations was not to be abandoned,
the governor assigned them an escort of 25 sol-
diers, which he placed under the command of
captain Alonzo de Daza. The provincial, on his
part, wishing to give all the interest in his power,
to the renewed attempt at converting the Xica-
ques, issued letters-patent to his province, re-
questing such of the religieux as were desirous of
contributing their assistance, to make their incli*^
nations known to their respective prelates, in
order that a proper number of competent persons
might be selected. All arrangements being com-
pleted, the expedition was in readiness to leave
2 A
3§4
Guatemala by the end of the yeaf 1610. VeM^e-
lete preached a sermon, id xvhich he took leate of
the inhabitants, whom, in a proph^tk spirit, he told
they were listening to him for the last time, l^e
party reached the confines of Tologalpá iü April,
1611, having been delayed sometime in Coiriayft-
^ua by the ill health of Verdelete; they found some
af the Lencas living among the Christians, and by
Aieir means succeeded iñ drawing ortrers frotti
their retreat in the mountains; each day brought
in more, both of those who had been before bap*
tized, as well as Pagans ; the latter^ as ftist as they
acquired the requisite instructioti, were also ad-
mitted to baptism ; afnd the whole settled in small
villages, on convenient spots.
The mtfristers wished to go personally in search
^ those converts who had escaped at the tfme <jf
the conflagration; Daza, however, persuaded
them to desist from this attempt, wttdev an idea,
that although the Indians themselves invited their
presence, and had even offered canoes to pass the
river, yet their intentions were treacherous, afe
many of them were armed ; he proposed to pre-
cede them with his soldiers, and ascertain the
«posture of affairs, as he had strong reasons to
^raspect some lirrking danger. Daza soon found
its suspicions were not ill founded ; for although
at first he was received witíi kindness, the natives
^ad no sooner collected in sufficient force, t^aa
*hey attacked him ; he repelled them with difli-
<!uky, and effected his retreat, but »ot without
^ovae of his soldiers being killed. The hatred to
the Christmns was not appeased by this Tetreart>,
in foct, it was serioiisly increased by a soldier hav-
ing killed an Indiam who bad striick him, ^amd
355
as this retaliation greatly exasperated them,
tbey eontrived fresh sohemes to satisfy their re-"
▼enge. They sent to tell the fathers they were
very sorry for the past disputes, and wish^ to be
made Christians, if the Spaniards would come
into the mountains to them, but hoped they would
leave their fire-arms behind, as they desired to
9¥Otd war, wished for peace, and to become good
friends. Confiding in these pretences, notwith-
standing the evidence of past events, the minis-^
tera Wfere for proceeding instantly to meet the In-*
dians; but Daza again restrained their ardour,
oflG^ng to go with some of the soldiers, with*-
out arms, to tell them, on the part of the mis-
sionaries, that they would be pardoned for what
had paas^^ and had no reason to be alarmed ;
and tliat the fathers would come among them
with pleasure to give instructions and prepare
them to become good Christians.
Daza set forward on his mission, recommend-
ing to the fetWrs not to move from their present
situation without receiving a letter from him ;
at the expiration of 4 or 5 days, 7 canoes were
seen descending the river, and those who ca,me in
them, told the ministers that Daza desired they
would come to liim : on ^being asked for the
leliter, the Indians made several excuses, which
the credulous missionaries readily believed, al-
though .the soldier» advised them strongly not to
eonfíde in those who had before been so treaeher-
owa ; but these infatuated men, full of apostolic
zeal, and sighing ior the crown of martyrdom, re-
plied, thsU. no time could be more propitious for
obtaining what they so much desired, and with
some of the soldiers entered the canoes; they
2 A 2
356
proceeded a considerable distance witboot ob«
serving any thing to create distrust: at last, on
turning a point of land, tbey saw the declivity of
a hill covered with a multitude of Indians, painted
black, with helmets of feathers, and armed with
lances : they also saw elevated on the point of a
long lance the head of Daza, and upon otheis,
the hands of sopoe of the soldiers. Verdelete,
who landed from the first canoe, began to address
them with reproaches for their treacherous con-
duct: he rebuked them for their idolatry, and
threatened them with the anger of God for the
murders they had so atrociously perpetrated:
these upbraidings infuriated them to the utmost;
tbey gave a signal by sounding a sort of pipe, and
immediately fell upon the defenceless priest, in-
flicting innumerable wounds, which he, like an-
other St. Stephen, received upon his knees, pray-
ing for his murderers; they then transfixed his
body with a lance, and cut off his head. Juan
de Monteagudo was killed in the canoe, and
nearly all the soldiers shared the same fate. This
melancholy event x)ccurred, according to the
most probable computation, on the 16th of Ja*
nuary, 1612.
The barbarians celebrated their triumph by a
feast, in which they devoured the arms, legs, and
thighs of those whom they had slain ; and made
use of their skulls as drinking cups ; of the vest-
ments and ornaments tbey made dresses that
were used in their dances ; the chalices, and other
utensils of the altar, were broken to pieces, and
made into pendants for the ears and noses. So
great was the wildness of their joy at this horrid
banquet, that many died of excess, others vrere
357
dashed to pieces by falling over precipices, aad
several were drowned ; at least such was the in-
formation given by the Indians to a missionary
who in after times visited the country.
For many years the Indians of Tologalpa saw
nothing more of the Christians ; not from the want
qI* zealous men who wished to continue their ex-
ertions, but because the prelates did not think
proper to grant permission. Antonio de An-
drada, indeed, embarked at the port of Truxillo,
with the intention of visiting this inhospitable
region, but was driven by stress of weather
almost to the coast of Tobasco, an immense dis-
tance from it : other persons belonging to the con-
vent of Truxillo also embarked there, with the
same intention, but they could not accomplish a
landing either on the shores of Tologalpa, or Ta-
guzgalpa.
The time however arrived when these attempts
were to be renewed. In 1674, some Indians of
the Fantasma and Faraka nations came to Gua-
temala, to request Fernando de Espino, who was
then provincial of the Franciscans, to go and in-
struct their countrymen, and settle them in vil-
lages ; Espino conferred with the governor on the
subject, and as it was ascertained that these were
distinct nations from those in.which Ovalle and
his companions were employed, a determination
was made to send another missionary into that
region. Many persons offered themselves to un-
dertake the service, but the choice fell upon Fe-
dro de Lagares, a young man in all respects qua-
lified for the hazardous enterprise. He set out
on his mission, and arriving at New Segovia,
established a seminary, in which the religieux of
358
the pro? ioce might be prepared for undertaking
missioDB into the mountaioous district He ap-
plied himself sedulously to his task, made fre-
quent excursions into the mountains, and was
successful in bringing each time several of the na-
tives, whom he settled at 2 small villages in the
valley of Culcali, situated about 5 leagues from
the billy country ; these numbers went on in-
creasing by new converts that Lagares made io
each journey, and also by others, who volunta-
rily canrie to solicit instruction; so that by the
mouth of October, 1678, there were, in the vil-
lages of St. José, Paraka, and St. Francisco Na-
naica, more than 200 Indians who came to con-
fession, besides children, as appeared from a cer-
tificate signed by the two captains, José Yaaquez
tie Coronado, and Manuel Diaz de Yelasco.
Pedro Lagares continued his labours for 6 years,
and died at Segotia, July the 24th, }679, at the
age of 35. By his death the work of conversion
was for a time suspended, as the person who had
at first been his coadjutor, was obliged to return
to Guatemala on account of ill health. When
the death of Lagares was announced by the al-
calde of Segovia to the provincial of the Francis-
cans, letters-patent were dispersed throughout
the province, inviting the ecclesiastics who w^^
willing to. engage in the service, to make known
their wishes, in order that a successor miglit be
elected. Many offers were made, and a person
was chosen as chief of the mission, who, on the
22dof September, 1679, set out for the place of
bis destination ; and in the following year %
others were sent as his colleagues* These 3
é^eited themselves so actively, that in 2 years
359
i|H>Fe than ?0Q Jpdiw9 Mrere bs^ptized. For se-
veral years rapid progress wa^ mad^ in the coti-
ver^iQO of the natives qf this province, frrah as-
si^t^nt^ being occasionaU; si^at from Guatemala.
It 15, hQwever, now (181 1), napre than half a cen-
tury ^nqe the Franciscans have abandoned the
province of Tolagalpa to its idolatry. What oc-
casioned the discontinuation of this work, at a
tinijB when it was proceeding under favourable
Qircnmstances, ^ppe^rs not to be accurately
known.
CHAP. XXXII.
Of the Rpdnction of the Pagans of the Province
of Taguz^alpa.
CjütisTOVAL Mabtinez de LA PuERTA, an
qr^terpriiing young man, by birth an Andalusian,
arrived on the coast of Honduras, with the cap-
tain Jnan de Monaaterios, about the year 1600:
hj^ landed at TmiiiHo at a time when an officer
was raising mw to make incursions into the
^ritorie^ of the natives, and he readily joined
this band. On the expedition he had oppor-
tunities pf observing that the country was po-
pulous in the extreme, and of conversing with
the natives i;especting their religion ; he found
them generally very well disposed to exchange
idolatry for Christianity. The young Christoval
was seized with a vehement desire of effecting
their conversón: anxious to commence his la-
bours, and deliberating in his own mind on the
befit means of obtaining his wishes, it occurred
to him tb^t. he must first be ordained a priest.
360
íq order to be employed in his favourite scheme*
With this intention, he went to the city of Guate-
mala, for the purpose of going through a course
of studies, as a preliminary step towards the ful-
filment of his desire ; being, however, without
the means of subsistence, he offered himself as
a servant to the college. In this situation, a youth
of good family, it may readily be conjectured,
would be exposed to many mortifications; within
the college he endured the jeers, the scorn, and
ill-treatment of the students ; out of it he was
forced to submit to the indignity of going to the
markets to purchase vegetables, and other neces^
sary articles for kitchen use; but hoping ulti-
mately to work the conversion of whole nations
of infidels, rendered all these hardships tolerable.
He conducted himself in the most exemplary
manner, and discharged every duty confided to
him with remarkable punctuality and care* In
this station, however, the spirit of Christoval
was restless, and he felt that he could be at ease
only in Taguzgalpa, instructing and catechizing
the Xicaques ; these inward desires became at
last too powerful for longer concealment; he
made them known to his provincial, and earnestly
solicited permission to put them into execution.
This prelate made such examinations as pru-
dence dictated to him, and satisfying himself of
the sincerity, as well as the qualifications of Mar-
tinez, for the undertaking, the favour, so anxiously
sought, v^as granted. He still encountered diffi-
culties and delays; he embarked twice for the
coast of Taguzgalpa, but was as often driven
back by contrary winds, and on both occasions
was under the necessity of returning to Gua-
361
témala. Unwilling to desist from the enterprise^
Martinez repeated bis solicitations to the prelate
for permission to make a third trial to penetrate
into the country by the way of Cape Gracias a
Dios. There was a great diversity of opinions
respecting this voyage, but the provincial yielded
to the arguments, which, by his direction, Marti-
nez addressed to liim in writing (and which the,
curious reader may find in detail in the Chronicle
of Vasquez), gave him his paternal benediction,
and permission to depart once more for Taguz*
galpa.
In April, 1619, Martinez, accompanied by Juan
Vaena, a lay brother of excellent character for his
virtues and qualifications, set out for Truxio, but
on arriving at Truxillo, could not meet with a ship
to convey them to their destination. They then
passed over to the Havannah, and although the
governor of that place ordered a frigate to take
them to Cape Gracias a Dios, they were prevented
by bad weather from reaching it, and once more
constrained to go back to Truxillo. They were
advised to remain there until the month of March
following, when the season would be favourable
for sailing to leeward ; and more particularly as
the governor was getting a frigate ready to sail in
that month for Jamaica, which, as Taguzgalpa lay
in the course, could easily land them on the coast.
They embraced this opportunity and sailed on the
16th of February, 1622 ; the voyage was propi-
tious, and the 2 missionaries, with 4 Indians,
whom they had taken from the island of Roatan,
as interpreters, landed at the Cape : they took an
affectionate leave of the officers of the frigate, and
committed themselves to an unknown country
962
surrouDded by barbarians^ with do other protec*
tion than that of Providence ; an f^ct of heroism,
that leaves far behind the boasted exploit of Cor-
tes, in ordering the ships in which he had arrived
at Vera Cruz to be sunk, at a time when he was
surrounded by savage Indians, without any oth^r
resource for quitting the country, should it be
oec^ssary ; but Cortes was accompanied by many
brave soldiers to support him, many ^ble officers
to assist him with their advice and military expe*
rienqe, and aboye all, he had fire-arms which
alone were terrible to his opponents; wh^e^^,
here were 2 poor friers, with no othar ^rflW than
the gospel and p^tieqce, Qj^posing t;h^mBelY,e3
among nations of canoibals ; ap ÍA$tapc^ of self--
4evotioi| that must e:y:cite the greatest surpri^
^i^d admiration.
The missionaries fpund them^elv/is oq a d^s^rt
shore, unmarked by any traces of the human race
having inhabited it ; occasionally, however, they
soon saw at a distance an Indian or two^whjo, Qn
perceiving the strangers, immediately fled iu «on-r
stprnation. In this siolitude they passed 2^ days i
W the morning of the third they observed ft.uu-
merous body of the natives both male .aad fe^
m^^le approachin g; the m^n .werei naked» wUh the
^jcp^ption of a piece of clpth before them, p&inted
red», with plumes of f<?athers on th^ir beads, and
laqqes iq thpir , hands ; the women w&t^ al^o
pi^iqted r^d, hadjsmall aprons before them» a^d
gariands pf flpwers on their heads : the la3t p^json
pf this cpmpany was a venerable old man w4th
Ippg white hair. On coming up to tbamissiou-r
^ies he made a profound obeisance, said in a lan-
guage they conld understand, that they were vwl-
363
<;O0I6, and asked, wby they bad so loDg delayed
coining» to the great risk of his dying before their
arrival ? He added, that he had long expected
theoi, with the greatest anxiety to render his ser-
vices ; that he was not blamable for not having
come before now to pay his respects, because be
had understood they were to arrive by land, and
had placed sentinels on the tops of the highest
mountains to give him notice of their approach.
Great indeed was the astonishment of Martinez
^nd bis companion at this unexpected address,
and asking the old man who had given him iur
formation of their intended visit, be replied (mira-
bile dictu)„ " that being one day at work in his
plantation, there appeared to him a white child,
more beautiful than any thing he had ever before
^een or could imagine; it looked at him with
great tenderness, and said, ' Know that you will
not die before you become a Christian ; there will
oome here sonae white men, with robes of the co-
lour of this ground, reaching to their feet; when
they arrive, receive them kindly, and do not per-
mit any one to anger them, for they are ministers
of GTod, who has panted thee this signal mark ef
Inn mercy, because thou hast done well, and bast
supported those who wanted ai^tance I' " It is
n^orthy of notice that this old man, even in his
idolatrif, hsid employed himself in acts of kindf-
tie$8;'he cultivated maize to distribute • among
those Who were in distre^ ; he composed stmfe^,
and settled all dispute amojog. kh neighbours t
besides performiii^ many other kind offices ynhere
they were wanted^ Martinez wa^ greally rejoiced
at h^H^ng tbis^ be co^niorted the old ipan, a^d
pcoaiised to perform ior bim all tbe duties H3f a
364
good pastor. The Indians immediately set about
constructing a hut for the strangers, near a river
called Xarua : on the following day they erected
a very large one for a church, and crosses were
raised in different places by the side of the paths,
&c. The missionaries began to instruct their new
friends; they baptized the old man and all his
family; many of the Indians requested to have
the same indulgence granted to them, from the
great respect they bore towards the old man, and
also because they understood that these were the
fathers who had so long before been announced to
them by the god of the mountain.
This was the cheering prospect of affairs in
Taguzgalpa, 3 months after the first landing of
Martinez, when a boat that had been dispatched
by Diego de Cañavete, curate of Truxillo, and
other inhabitants of that city, anchored on the
coast ; it brought, as had been promised, a supply
of wine and biscuit, with some consecrated bread
for the service of the altar. The crew of the boat
landed, and soon met some Indians who con-
ducted them to the residence of the missionaries.
After mutual congratulations, the fathers gave an
account of the great success that had already at-
tended their efforts ; and their visitors saw, with
great astonishment^ how much had been done for
Christianity in so short a time. During their stay
the old Indian died, and all the Spaniards assisted
at the Christian rites of his funeral. . When the
boat was preparing to return, Martinez resolved
to send Juan Vaena to Guatemala^ to give the
provincial a narrative of what had occurred, and to
request another priest might be sent to assist him.
In September, 1622, Vaena reached the capital^
365
and laid before the provincial a detailed account
of the expedition. The prelate was greatly rejoiced
at the communication ; he published an account of
the rapid progress that had been made in the re-
duction of Xicaque, and invited other ecclesias-
tics, who were moved by a similar spirit of enter-
prise, to offer their assistance. As usual, many
tenders were sent, but that of Benito Lopez was
preferred, doubtless on account of his superior
qualifications, as information was received in 1630,
that he had conducted himself in the most exem-
plary manner^ not only in matters of religion, but
in every respect that could render a man estimable
in society : he was a native of Andalusia, edu-
cated in the Franciscan convent of Guatemala,
where he assumed the religious habit in 1617,
taking the name of Benito de St. Francisco. He
received his new ministry with great satisfaction,
and soon after set out with Juan Vaena for Taguz-
galpa, where he arrived in January, 1623. His
surprise was excessive at observing what had been
performed by Martinez in less than a year, as
more than 700 adults, besides a great number
of children, had been admitted to baptism ; 7 vil-
lage had been formed, in which the converts
were settled according to their respective na-
tions.
The kind treatment and attentions shewn by the
missionaries to the Indians, were soon spoken of
among the neighbouring tribes, in consequence of
which every day brought whole families, petition-^
ing to be participators in them, with every demon-
stration of sincere conversion*; but as they could
not easily abandon their original mode of living in
wilds and forests, they were unwilling to settle in
966
Tillages^ and share in the enjoyments of social
life ; for this reason it often occurred, that they
capricioasly returned into the recesses of the
mountains, when such desertions were the least
expected. This unsettled disposition of their new
flock gave the pastors great uneasiness, which in-
creased to such a degree, that they thought it ne-
cessary to quit for a while the nations they were
now with, and go into the country of the Guabas,
The Guabas were mulattoes, the progeny of some
Spaniards, who having suffered shipwreck on the
coast, had connected themselves with the Indiao
women, and from this intercourse the present race
bad sprung. The missionaries entertained an
idea that if these could be domesticated, they
might be made good mediators between them and
the other Indians, as partaking of (he blood of
both species ; and being in part Spaniards, it was
supposed they would be more constant in the ob-
servance of Christianity, if they could be brought
to profess it ; and this determined them to midep-
tak« their conversion. About this ikne a frigate
trader the orders of the govenior of TruxiHo, an-
chored at Cape Gracias a Dios : the priests avail-
ing themselves of that opportunity, requested the
captain would couvey them to Anavacas, the
place where the Guabas were supposed to dw^ell.
Having landed there^ they advanced into the
country and discovered the objects of their re<-
search : the Iiulians listened to th^ instructions^
as did many of the other nations, for they had
received some accounts of the love and great
kindness shewn by the missionaries to the chris^
ttaaued Indians, not in their spiritual coooenms
only, but4)y attending them in ¿ckness» and. cur-
367
iiig their maladies ; they therefore came in troops
to Request the same good offices, so that during
the few months spent in the country by the 3
faifaérs, they made converts of, and adniinistered
the sacrament of baptism to, more than 5000
individuals; thus, including thofee who had re-
ceived it thfe forfegoing year from Martinez, the
whole nutnbier tíiade in the province of Taguz-
galjia excfeedfed 6000.
In the midst of this plentiful harvest the 3
ihdfefatigablte labourers were cot off; they fell a
áacrifiíce to the animosity of the Albatuinas, a
neighbouring nation. Some of this treacherous
and savage tribe visited them with a pretended
desire of being converted, and begged that they
\vould accompany them to their dwellings, for
the purpose of giving instructions ; the missiona-
fie^ not suspecting any deceit prepared to gratify
tbeir wishes. The savages, however, in the eager-
ness to accomplish their object, did not delay the
execution of their scheme until they had got their
Tictims into their toils, but came in force to the
Christian village, and ijurrotinding the hou^e ifi
^hich the fathers dwelt, seized upon and bound
them, the new converts being too weak to at-
tempit releasing or defending them : they were then
dragged through the different places where they
had preached, and severely beaten with wooden
stvords and knives. The sufferers attempted to
reprove them for the Cruelties they were inflicting,
and threatened them with divine vengeance for
their crimes, but this serving only to increase
their fury, they seized Martinez, and impaletl
him OB a lance, cut Off one of his hands, and
attierwarij broke kis legs with their clubs, in the
368
excruciating tormenta of which he expired. The
2 others were killed by wounds of lances and
knives; their legs were also broken, and their
heads cut off. As soon as Juan de Miranda,
governor of Truxillo, was informed of the cruel-
ties the Albatuinas had inflicted upon the mis-
sionaries, he ordered 2 vessels to be equipped, oa
board of which he embarked with some soldiers
and artillery, and immediately sailed for the pur-
pose of punishing the savages for the atrocities
they had committed, and recovering the remains
of the fathers. He landed at Gape Gracias a
Dios, and although he was unable to chastise the
murderers as he wished, because they had re-
treated into the fastnesses of the mountains, be
discovered, by the assistance of the converted
Indians^ the bodies of the victims, which he re-
moved, and carried to Truxillo, where they were
buried with great pomp on the 16th of January,
1624. A contest arose between the cabildo of
Truxillo and the syndic of the Franciscan con vent,
relative to the place of sepulture; the former in-
sisting that they should be interred in the great
church, and the latter maintaining that their re-
mains ought to be deposited in the Franciscans'
church : this dispute was terminated by the injterr
ference of the governor, who decided that the
body of Martinez should be buried in the great
church, and those of his companions in that of
the Franciscan. They reposed in these places
until the year 1643, when the Dutch taking the
city, the guardian of the convent collected the
precious relics, and removed them to Guatemala,
where preparations were made for receiving them
with great solemnity ; but the provincial wishing
369
to avoid any violent demonstration of poptrlar
feeling, determined they should be admitted with-
out any procession* They were deposited in the
church of St. Francis, the royal audiencia, ca-
bildos, and different religious orders attending
tho ceremony: the coffin was borne by the most
distinguished persons in the city, and the funeral
service performed with the greatest solemnity.
After the death of these ministers, all farther
attempts to convert these Indians were suspended
for some years ; for although several missionaries
endeavoured to penetrate into the interior both of
Taguzgalpa and Tologalpa, their efforts were un*^
successful. In 1661, some of Xhe Paya Indians
repeatedly plundered the small settlements con^
tiguous to their own territory, and .the Xicaques
committed similar depredations in the valleys of
Xamastran and Olancho. Captain Bartolomé de
Escoto, one of the proprietors, who had suffered
most severely from these incursions, endeavoured,
with the assistance of his friends and neighbours,
to put a stop to them; they advanced into the
enemy's country, and succeeded in bringing away
several Indians from their mountain retreats,
whom they settled on a spot that was judged
most convenient. As they were in this situation
without a priest to instruct them, Escoto, ac^
companied by 3 Lenca Indians, went to Gua-
temala in search of a minister : the president,
on being informed of his wish, recommended the
accomplishment of it to the provincial of St. Fran-
cis, observing, that as the conversion of the In-
dians had originated with his order, it would be
highly honourable to it to furnish labourers to
reap the copious harvest which presented itself,
2 B
370
parttcttlarly as there were aoiohg bis brethren
many persons so Mrell qualified for that great aod
glorious work. There was ^t this time in the
convent of Almolooga, Fernando de J^spino, an
aged and learned ecclesiastic» who, being a na*
tive of Ne^ S^ovia, a town bordering on the
lands of the Xicaques, was well acquainted with
the Lenca language. This person undertook the
task, and having invited Pedro de Ovatle to join
him, they set out from Guatemala on the 16tb
of May, 1667. On reaching the confines of
Taguzgalpa, they directed their course into the
mountains, and after enduring much fatigue in
searching for th^ natives, met with a family
of the Lencas, who were then going to put to
death a girl accused of the crime of witchcraft;
Espino did every thing iu his power to rescue the
victim,^ but could not succeed in saving her; all
he could obtain was a short respite, in which in-
terval he was allowed to adn^oister the sacrar
ment of baptism: he performed the same office
for another female who was dangerously sick,
s^nd she died much consoled by it. The 2
ministers continued in the discharge of their
duties with moderately good success, until the
beginning of the year 1668, when Espino was
recalled. Ov^.lle and some companions^ who had
been sent to him, pursued their labours diligently,
and after great difficulties^ succeeded in bringing
600 Pagans from the mountains : in 1675, they had
formed 7 small villages, in which was settled a
Chritíftian population of 600 souls. In 1679, this
number had increased to 1073 ; in 1690, the num-
ber of Indians that had died in the Christian faith ex-
ceeded 6000, and there were then 9 villages settled.
371
In 1694» some members of the college of úm^
siouarie& de Propaganda fide, of the city of Qi^e-
retaroy arrWed at Guatemala, with the intention
of foanding there a college of the same iustitu^
tipn ; and as the ardent zeal of these persons conld
not remain unemployed, until their establishment
liras completed, some of them set out for Tala-
sianóa, axMl others for the province of Choi.
Melchor Lopez, who bad been appointed presi-
dent of these missionanes, baling returned from^
Talamanca in 1695, undertook a new expedition,
i^ conjunction with Pedro de Urtiaga, to the
biahoprick of Gomayagna» where he preacbed
with his accustomed fervour; and betng near
Taguzgalpa, although the reductions in that pro*
Ttiice were under the charge of the society of
Nombre deJesus of Guatemala, he was desirous of
participating in the enterprise; and, by permission
of the society, both he and his companion went
into the interior, where they pursued their Is^bours^
with indefetigable perseverance, to the incalcu-
lable benefit of the infidels, until 1698, when Lok
pe2 paid the debt of nature. The establishmeni
of the college de Propaganda fide, was completed
ia 170U and^ in imitation of its founder, took upon
itself the charge of the civilization of Honduras:
in the present day it has there one mission, m
which there are never less than two persons em-
ployed. The society of Nombre de Jesus did
«ot give up their endeavours towards promo-
ting the conversion of the Indians ; for besides
others, they sent, in 1740, or thereabouts, Fe-
lix F%ueroa, a man of great talents add YÍr«
tue, to Taguzgalpa : he returned soon after-
ward to Guatemala, on business relative to hÍ3
2b 2
372
mission, but almost immediately went again to
that province, and continued in the instruction of
the converts until his death. There is preserved
in the church at the village of Santa Buenaven-
tura^ a very heavy cross^ which this exemplary
man took the pains to carry on his shoulders from
Guatemala to that place. Only a few years since,
José Antonio Goicoechea, an ecclesiastic, upwards
of 70 years of age, who had held the office of
lecturer in his society for three periods, at the ex-
piration of either of which he was entitled to retire
from the performance of all duties, after having
been sent as procurator to the court of Madrid,
whence he returned with a mission of 46 per-
sons, and finally, after having filled the office of
provincial minister, was determined to dedicate
the remainder of his old age to the service of reli-
gion : he, therefore, accompanied by José Antonio
Martinez, set off^ in June, 1805, for Taguzgalpa.
On arriving at the boundaries of the province,
they first proceeded to the mountain of Agalta,
where, notwithstanding the ferocity and extreme
barbarism of the natives, they succeeded in civi-
lizing great numbers, with whom they peopled
2 villages, called Nombre de Jesus Pacura, and
Su Estevan Tonjagua. After 2 years' labours,
Goicoechea was recalled to Guatemala, and the
inhabitants of the above-named villages being then
left without a minister, some of them went to the
capital^ and entreated the governor to send a
priest to take charge of them : the government
desired a report from Goicoechea on the subject^
which he made in November, 1807, representing
the necessity of keeping ministers in that country,
from the excellent disposition shewn by the na-^
1
373
ti ves generally to embrace CbrísUaaíty. An In*
^ian, named Antonio Lopez, professor of Isp^
guages in the university of Guatemala, also made
a report to the government, as the representative
of his nation, on the same subject; in consequence
of which, thjB supreme council of regency passed
an edict, on the 1st of March, 1810, commanding,
that, after taking the opinion of Goicoechea, mi-
nisters should be immediately provided for these
missions.
CHAP. XXXIIL
The Conqv£st of Talamancas hi the Province of
Costa Rica.
Talamanca is situated on the coast of the At-
lantic Ocean, within the province of Costa Rica,
in the same manner as Tologalpa is in that of Ni-
caragua, and Taguzgalpa in Comayagua. Tala*-
manca contains 26 different tribes of Indians;
besides which there are several neighbouring na-
tions, as the Changuenes, divided into 13 tribes ;
the Terrabas, the Torresqnes, Urinamas, and
Cavecaras. The surface of the country is very
rugged, and the climate extremely hot. There are
many large rivers,, and extensive thick forests,
which render the whole district excessively un-
healthy* It is bounded on the west and south by
the province of Costa Rica, on the east by the
districts of Chiriqui and Veraguas, and o i the
fiOrthby the sea.
In the history of the order of Bethlemites,
lib. 2, cap. 4, it is said, that when Don Rodrigo
Arias Maldonado, (afterward Fray Rodrigo de
374
la Craz) wa« governor and captauí-general of
Costa Rica in 1660, he undertook the conquest
of Talamanca ; after expending 60,000 dollars of
his own private fortune, and undergoing great
personal fatigues and hardships, he successfully
achieved his enterprise : he founded severaf vil-
lages, in which he built decent churches, and
provided iheOi with ministers for the instruction
and care of the inhabitants ; as a reward for these
services, he was created marquis of Talamanca.
The term of his government having expired, he
retired from the province; after which the natives
soon returned to their former wandering mode of
life, the villages were forsaken, the churches ruiur
ed, and all the benefits of Maldonado's labours
entirely lost : so that when Melchor Lopez and
Antonio Margil resumed the suspended work of
civilization, they found all the avenues to the in-^
terior of the country almost as impervious as if
they had never been opened ; the roads, or rather
the paths, overgrown and obliterated, as if they
had never been trodden ; the Indians as wild as if
they had never known the advantages of living hi
a domiciliated state, and as ferocious as ever they
had been in the periods of their paganism. With-
out arms or protection, these two persons ad^
yanced to the interior of the district, where, in
the space of 5 years' residence among the barba-
rians, and in the endurance of all the hardships
of fatigue, famine, and every privation, they ac*^
complished (according to the chronicle of the
colleges de Propaganda fide, lib. 5, cap. 1,) the
conversion of more than 40,000 souls, founded
1 1 villages, with a church in each, in Talamanca;
and 3 in the other nations. In the year 1694,
375
a hospicio (or collie de^tined for the reception
of missionaries) wa» fonnded in Gnatemala, and
Melchor Lopes appointed president of it. This
Tenerable prelate deputed Francisco de St. José;
and Pablo de Rebullida, to continue the conrer*
sioD of the Talamancan Indians t they proceeded
without delay to Costa Rica^ and on their arrival
at Cartago, established a mission in that city.
This arrangement completed, they proceeded to
the mountainous part of the country, and visited
the different establishments that had been formed
by Lopez and Margil: they christened many
children, performed the marriage ceremony for
the adults that had previously become Christians,
rebuilt the churches iuTalamanca and Terrabas,
and confirmed in the faith those who had been
converted. They next proceeded to the Chan^
guenes, a Very populous nation, extremely cruel
and ferocious, continually at war with the adjoin^
ing nations ; and even the different tribes of the
same nation were almost always in a state of hos*
tility : yet notwithstandingall these circumstances,
so adverse to the propagation of Christianity, the
unwearied zeal of the 2 missionaries succeeded
in civilizing a great part of this warlike people:
Francisco de St. José next went to the isle of
Toxas, lying a short distance from the country of
the Changuenes ; Rebullida continued his labour^
incessantly for the space of 12 years among the
Changuenes ; some times alone, at others aided
by some fathers from the province of Nicaragua,
or the college at Guatemala: he endured the ex-
cessive heats of the climate, famine, sickness, and
injuries received in travelling through wilds al-
most impenetrable; but neither his courage nor
376
enthasiasni were abated by his suffeilDgs, or the
fiograteful retura made by the natives, who treat-
ed him with great inhamanity ; frequently beatitirg
him severely with their lances, often inflicting
wounds with large stodes, and not seldom deli-
berating about putting him to death; many of
thera forced him to carry wood, and labour in
bnilditig their huts : after a long series of cruelties
they put him to death, by transfixing him with
lances, and afterward cut off his head. A simi«
lar fate befel Juan de Zamora, a priest of Nicara^
gua, and some soldiers who were employed as an
escort of the missionaries. Rebullida also lost his
life on the 17th of September, 1709, in the village
of St. Francisco de Urimana; his body was
brought to Guatemala by his companion, Antonio
de Andrada, who, at the time of his friend's death,
was at the convent of Cartago, or in all probabi-
lity he would have shared his fate. Francisco de
St^ José, after visiting the different villages of con-
verted Indians, and passing thence into the Cban-
guenes nation, with Rebullida, went to the isle of
Texas, where be was exposed to hardships of
every description. In 1096^ his health had suf-
fered so seriously, that he was forced to quit the
island in order to re-establish it ; he retired to
Santa Ana de Vezeyta, where he again met Re-
bullida, who delivered to him a letter, by which
he was informed, that he had been elected guar-
dian of the college of Queretaro 16 months before^
He set out on his way to that place, but on reach-'
iDg Guatemala, received an order from Antonio
Margil, who, on account of his long delay in arriv-
ing at the convent, had been confirmed guardian iá
his stead, to return to Talamanca. In November,
377
1697, be left Guatemala once more for Costa Rica;
and^ on arriving there» continued his labours
among the natives of Talamanca and at the isle
of Toxas until the year 1708, when he was chosen
president of the college of Granada, in the pro«-
vince oí Nicaragua : he persevered several years
in his endeavours to convert the inñdels of Costa
Rica, and his ardent zeal leading him from one
nation to another, he penetrated into the extensive
kingdom of Peru: finding the natives endued with
great docility, he pursued his journey until he
reached the city of Lima. In that capital, by
virtue of his powers as vice-commissary of niis-
isions, he solicited permission to establish a col-
lege in the kingdom : this he obtained, and in
consequence, founded 2 colleges, besides several
missions ; being thus the first person who extend-
ed the apostolic institution to South America:
he persevered in his plans of conversion, and had
the satisfaction of seeing his labours rewarded
with ample success in these vast regions before
his death, which took place in 1736, at the ad-
vanced age of 82 years. The reduction of Tala*
manca has always been in the hands of the mem-
bers of the college of Nombre de Jesus of Guate-
mala, the founders of that institution were the
first who commenced the hazardous enterprise ;
and since that period, the different prelates at the
head of it have continued the same with great
perseverance. But after the murder of the 2
first missionaries, there remained only 1 village^
in which 2 priests resided ; and from the want
of a military escort, they remained for several
years without making any attempt to visit the
natives in the mountains ; nor, indeed, would the
378
principals permit them to hazard their lives among
such furious savages. From the year 1699, earnest
solicitations were repeatedly made to the go-
vernor, to grant a troop of 30 soldiers for the pro-
tection of the ministers ; but as these men were
to draw their subsistence from the royal revenues,
it was necessary to have the sanction of the king
before such a request could be granted. Ulti-
mately, the governor was authorized to allow the
required protection, and, in 1740, Antonio de
Andrada, ex-guardian of the coU^e» and 3 other
ecclesiastics, set out for Talamanca, escorted by
. e body of soldiers; many other members of thii^
seminary have, at various periods, been employed
oti the same service, with variable success, not
unfrequently exposed to attacks and ill-treatment
from the fierce barbarians. In 1750, Francisco
Sarria was cruelly used by them, and received a
dreadful wound in the face, which terribly dis-
figured him. At the present time there are 3
missions maintained in Talamanca, where 6 eccle-
siastics are employed, viz. Orosi, to which Atirro
and Tucurrique are annexed ; Burruca, and St.
Francisco de Terraba, with its adjunct, Guada-
lupe.
CHAP. XXXIV.
Of the Jive middle Provinces^ viz. Totonicapan^
QuezallenangOy Solóla^ ChimaltenangOy and Sa-
Cdjtepeques ; and of their most celebrated Cities
in the time of the Idolaters.
UTAfLAN was indisputably the most magnifi-
cent and opulent city, not only of Quiche, but of
S79
the whole kbgdom of Guatemala* Of the capital
of the kiags of Quidié, of the multitudes of its
ÍBhabttaBts, the magnificence of its temples, the^ '
grandear of its public buildings, of its fortress,
impregnable from situation, as well as from nu*
merous castles and fortifications ; all the informa^
lion it was possible to obtain has been already
given in a former part of this work, under the head
of Santa Cruz del Quiche.
Next to Utatlan^ the most considerable city in
Quiche was Xelahufa, which is in modern^ times
the extensive town of Quezaltenango ; the name
of this place conveys a complete idea of its mag*
nitude, the word Xelahuh meaning, ** under the
government of 10," that is, it was governed by
10 principal captains ; and, according to the an*
cient style of the natives, each captain presided
over his respective xiquipil, or 8000 dwellings :
it therefore contained 80,000 houses ; and, as Fu*
entes expresses himself, ^' consequently more than
300,000 inhabitants." It was so strongly fortified,
that it never was taken by the enemies of the
king of Quiche, although it had been repeatedly
besieged. The Spaniards obtained possession of
it because the inhabitants were terrified by the
fame of their exploits: this alarm was greatly in-
creased by the defeat of a body of 24,000 Quezat
tecos, that had attempted to arrest their progress;
and in consequence, the greater part of the popu-
lation retired to their ancient fortresses, £xca*
nul, which is the volcano of Quezaltenango ; and
Cekxak, another mountain adjoining : the Casti-
lians-then advanced to Xelahuh, and finding it
deserted, took possession, and passed the night
there. At dawn of the following day, says a MS.
380
bf 16 leaves, found in the Tillage of St Andres
Xecul, fol. 11, the Spanish videttes captared
4 caciques, whose names were Calel Ralek,
Ahpopqueham, Calelahau, and Calelaboy ; who,
as soon as they were brought into the city, fell
on their knees before Pedro de Al varado, told
him their names and rank, and assured him that
they came of their own free will to pay their re-
spects to him, and submit to his orders. The
general received them with benignity and every
mark of respect: the same MS. fol. 15, says, be
consulted for some time with a priest, who then
explained to them the nature of the Christian
faith and the laws of God ; they were afterward
told^ that if they wished to enjoy peace^ and thq
friendship of the Spaniards, they must immedi-
ately return to the mountain, and by their autho-
rity as chiefs, induce the inhabitants to come back
to their houses. These 4 caciques declared them^
selves ready to embrace Christianity, and swear
allegiance to the king of Spain : 2 of them then
returned to the mountain fortress, while the
others remained in the city as hostages* The 2
messengers quickly came back, followed by a
great multitude of Indians ; the great square of
the town was insufficient to contain them all, and
numbers were dispersed in troops through the
different streets; they were once more assured
they might enjoy peace^ and again invited to
adopt the Christian religion. Alvarado made
presents to the different chiefs, who were then
dismissed to their own habitations. From that
period the Indians of Quezaltenango have shewn
an inviolable fidelity to the Spaniards ; even when
the kings of Quiche and Kachiquel revolted in
381
the year I&269 the city of Xelahuh was unaffected
by these discontents. It has been already stated
in another part, that Al varado left a detachment
of troops under the command of Juan de Leon
Cardona to garrison Sahcaja ; at that place (ac-*
cording to Vasquez, lib. 1, cap. 1 and 2), a cha-
pel was built, and a village, to be inhabited by
Spaniards, was formed. It received the name of
Quezal tenango, an Indian word, meaning the
^* mountain of Quezales ;" the place where it was
built being so called. At the expiration of 4
years, the population of Quezaltenango was transr
ferred to the city of Xelahuh ; from which period
it has exchanged its original appellation and title
of city, for that of the village of Quezaltenango*
This place was for some time subject to the au-*
thority of Juan de Leon Cardona, and afterward
to the city of Guatemala, as appears from the
cabildo held on the Ist of August, 1542; in later
times it has had a resident corregidor, who was
also igovernor of the district; and at present it
has an ayuntamiento, consisting entirely of Spa-
niards, established by order of the govemor-ge*
neral, Antonio Gonzalez de Saravia. The church
government of it was at first committed to a
Franciscan, who accompanied Alvarado, and
whom the general left in the chapel of Sahcaja
to instruct the Quiche Indians ; a mission of that
order arriving from Spain, founded one of their
first convents at Quezaltenango : on this account,
as Vasquez tells the story, (lib. 1, cap. 26,) when
the Dominicans wished to form a convent here in
1553, they were compelled to desist from the at-
tempt, because the Franciscans had anticipated
them ; and by royal edicts it is prohibited, for any
382
order to erect a religious house in a place where
there exists already a similar eatabltshmeot be-
longing to another order, Mentioa is made of
this convent in an edict so early as 1551; and in
the first chapter of the order^ held in 1566^ Fran*
cisco de Colmenar was appointed guardian of it.
Chemeqaena was another celebrated city in the
kingdom of Quiche ; in the native language this
name signifies ** upon warm water :" it is at pre-
sent the village of Totonicapan. Under its na-
tive^ princes the population roi£»t have be^i Tery
great, as it could place 90,000 fighting men at the
disposal of King Tecum Umam. The forces of
this place that opposed the Spaniards, being de*
feated in the battle of Penar, they, in imitation of
the people of Quezalteoango, soon submitted to
the authority of Spain, and embraced the Chris-
tian religion. It was at first the chief place of a
corregimiento, and afterward the capital of the .
alcaldia of Totonicapan; but, in 1640 or 1615,
the residence of the corregidors was transferred
to Gu^uetenango, because it was more in the
centre of their jurisdiction; the alcaldes mayor,
however, now reside in Totonicapan. The eccle^
siastical afiairs are under the direction of the
Franciscans, whose convent had the dignity of a
guardian so early as 156tt.
The city of Patinamit was in the kingdom of
Kachiquel, and, if it corresponded with the signi-
fication of its name, was^ without doubt^ the prin«
dpal one ; as, in the idiom of the natives, the
word implies definitely ^* the city:" it was also
called Tecpanguatemala, which, according to
Vai^ez, means "^^ the royal house of Guatemá^
la;'* whence this writer infers, that it was the ca-
383
pi4al of tbe Kachiquel kings. Fuentes, torn. 1,,
lib. 3, cap. 1, and lib. 15, cap, 5, supposes. Tec-
panguat^mala to have been a large city, 9ȇ the
arsenal of the kingdom, but not the royal resi;^
dence : for it is known that honour belonged to
tbe city of Guatemala, and that the former was a
different place, situated on an eminence with re-
spect to the latter ; the word Tecpan meaning
*^ mtbove. " Tecpan Atitlan was also a distinct
place> and in an elevated position with respect^to
Atitlan. Patinamit was seated on an eminence,
and surrounded by a deep degle or natural fosse;
from the level of the city to the bottom of the
ditch was a perpendicular depth of more than
100 fathoms : this trench admitted but of one
entmrice into the place, which was by a narrow
causeway terminated by 2 gates constructed of
the cbay 9tone, 1 on the exterior, and the other
on the interior surface of the wall of the ciiy.
The plane of this eminence extends about 3 mileef
iQ length from north to south, and about 2 in
breadth from east to west ; the soil is covered with
a stiff clay, about three quarters of a yard deep:
on one side of the plane may be seen the remains
of a magnificent building, perfectly square, each
side measuring 100 paces. This fabric was con^
structed of hewn stonCi extremely well put toge-
ther; in front of the building there is a lai^e
square, on one side of which stand the ruins of
a sumptuous palace, and near to H there are the
foiindations of several houses. A trench, 3 yards
deep, runs from north to south through the city,
having a breastwork of masonry^ rising about a
y^rd high : on the eastern side of this ^trench
stood the houses of the nobles, and on the oppor
384
site, the residences of the mas^aales or com-
moners. The streets were, as may still be seen,
straight and spacious, crossing each other at right
angles. To the westward of the city there is a
little mount that commands it ; on this eminence
stands a small round building, about 6 feet in
height, in the middle of which there is a pedestal
formed of a shining substance, resembling glass;
but the precise quality of it has not been ascer-
tained. Seated around this buildings the judges
heard and decided upon the causes brought be*
fore them; and here also their sentences were
executed. Previous, however, to carrying a sen»
tence into effect, it was necessary to have it con*
firmed by the oracle: for which purpose, 3 of the
judges quitted their seats, and proceeded to a
deep ravine^ where there was a place of worship,
wherein was placed a black transparent stone, of
a substance much more valuable than the ckay ;
on the surface of this tablet the Deity was sup-
posed to give a representation of the fate that
awaited the criminal : if the decision of the judges
was approved, the sentence was immediately in-
flicted ; on the contrary, if nothing appeared on
the stone^ the accused was set at liberty: this ora-
cle was also consulted in the affairs of war. The
bishop, Francisco Marroquin, having obtained
intelligence of this slab, ordered it to be cut
square, and consecrated it for the top of the
grand altar in the church of Tecpanguatemala :
it is a piece of singular beauty, about half a yard
each way. The minute description of the city given
by Fuentes, leads to a supposition that he had
been an eye-witness of what he relates : this idea
is corroborated by his assertion, that he went to
385
Quiche for the express purpose of examining the
antiquities of Utatlan. The conquerors removed
the population of that city to the spot now occu-
pied by the village^ about a league and a half
from its ancient seat; because the number of
Spaniards that could be spared to garrison it was
but small, and, in the event of a revolt of the In-
dians, it might be a very difficult matter to regain
possession of it. Vasquez says, a Franciscan
priest remained in Patins^mit to instruct the Ka-
chiquel Indians, and that a convent was founded
there, which remained until 1754, when it was se-
cularized.
The city of Mixco was one of considerable im-
portance in the kingdom of the Kachiqueis, as well
as one of the strongest and best fortified placea
in the whole country. The original founders
belonged to the Pocoman nation; and, being in
a state of hostility with the Quichés and Ka-
chiqueis, they resolved to settle in the valley of
Xilotepeque, particularly as they were in alliance
vrith the people of the surrounding cantons. They
chose an eminence that nature bad rendered im-
pregnable; it was a steep rock, the ascent to
which being by a narrow path that would not
admit 2 persons abreast, in several places in-
tersected by deep ravines ; the top of the rock
presented a level surface, on wliich the city was
built. The present town of Mixco was founded
by Pedro de Alvarado, about 9 leagues distant
from the site of the ancient city.
Of the kingdom of Zutugil, the capital was
Atitlan, a name that in the Pipil language signi-
fies "a water courier." It was also called At-
ziquinixai, which^ in the Quiche idiom,^ means,
2c
386
*' the eagles' bouse ;" a name origínatíng from the
practice of their kings, who, when they took the
field, wore, as a distinguishing device, a lai^
plume of the quezales feathers in the form of an
eagle. This extensive city was in a position
strongly defended by natural bulwarks, among
steep, banging rocks, on the border of the lake of
the same name, which protected it on the south
side. One proof of its strength is, that the kings
of the Zutugiles, from the very commencement of
their empire until the arrival of the Spaniards, were
continually at war, either with the Quichés or
Kachiquels, and neither of these powerfnl nations
were ever able to subdue it. The Spaniards con-
quered it in 1524, and have always kept in sub-
jection the natives of the district, who, from that
period, seemed to lose their independent and
warlike spirit. Historians have made no mention
of the usual place of residence of the royal family
of the Zutugiles. Vasquez, lib. 1, cap. 13, re-
ports, that the religious instruction of these In-
dians was undertaken by the priest who remained
at Tecfmnguatemala ; he went to Atitlan, where
he converted several of the inhabitants, and con-
tinued his labours with zeal and good effact until
1541, when Gonzalo Méndez was established
there. The former founded in Atitlan the first
convent of the Franciscans in any of the Indian
towns; beginning, in 1538, to give effect to the
royal edict, that enjoined the erection of convents
and building of churches in the largest and most
populous places: when the boundaries of the
province were settled, in 1566, the convent was
made guardian of it ; it was secularized in 1754.
In temporal affairs, Atitlan was at first governed
387
by a corregidor, who resided there : the corregi-
miento was afterward united with that of Tecpa-
natitlan, to form the alcaldia mayor of Solóla, to
whieh jurisdiction Atitlan now belongs, but it is
shorn of all its ancient splendour.
CHAP. XXXV.
The Conquest of Quiche.
The monarchy of Utatlan had attained its
greatest extent and splendour in the reign of
Kicab Tanub, son of Kicab the Fourth; from
the very foundation it had been the most power-
ful, and the different sovereigns who had occu-
pied the throne, continued to increase it by the
many cities and extensive t€frritories which they
wrested from the neighbonring caciques by force
of arms. Kicab Tanub was insatiable in his am-
bition ; and for the purpose of extending his domi-
nions was engaged in a sanguinary war with the
kings of the Zutugiles and the Mams, when he
received advice that the Spaniards had already
arrived at the boundaries of Soconusco. This
news obliged him to desist from his predatory
excursions, and dispatch messengers to the
other kings and chiefs, inviting them to confe-
derate for their common defence. The reply,
did not correspond with the expectations of the
sovereign : for Sinacam, king of Guatemala, being
dissatisfied with the king of Quiche, who, un-
der pretence of affording him assistance against
Ahpocaquil, one of his chiefs who had revolted
actually protected the rebels ; he therefore refused
2c2
388
the alliance, and openly declared that he was a
friend to the Teules (the name given by the In-
dians to the Spaniards). The king of the Zu tu-
gues replied to the invitation even with more
haughtiness. He said, ^^ he was able to defend
his kingdom without the assistance of Kicab
Tanub, against a more numerous and less fa-
mished army than that of the strangers which was
marching against Quiche." These contemptuous
and insolent answers severely galled the ambi-
tious' monarch, and added to the fatigues of col-
lecting his forces, raising defences, and making
due preparations for the threatening war, made
such havoc on his constitution, that he was at-
tacked by a sickness which carried him off in a
short time. He was succeeded by his eldest son.
Tecum Umam, who had but little leisure to in-
dulge in sorrow for his deceased parent; as the
tzamaheles, or couriers, almost hourly brought
him advice of the Spaniards* approach, and called
all his attention to warlike dispositions, and ar-
rangements of his plans for the campaign. At
length information arrived that the captain, To-
nati, and his Teules had marched from Soco-
nusco to besiege Xelahuh (or Quezaltenango) ;
the largest, best fortified, and most important
place in the kingdom of Quiche, having at that
time within its walls a force of 80,000 men for its
defence : so great, however, was the fame the
Spaniards had acquired by their exploits, that
the confidence of Tecum Umam began to waver.
He quitted his capital with great pomp, borne in
his litter on the shoulders of the principal men of
his kingdom, preceded by the music of ¿utes,
cornets, and drums, and 70,000 men^ commanded
389
by bis principal general Ahzol, his lieutenant
Ahznmanche, the grand shield-bearer Abpocob,
raany other officers of great dignity, and a great
number of attendants bearing parasols and fans of
feathers, for the use of the royal person^ all well
armed and prepared for a vigorous resistance.
An immense number of Tamames, or Indians em-
ployed to carry burdens, followed the army, with
the baggage and provisions. The^ arrived with
as much expedition as the ceremony and nume-
rous cortege of the king was capable of at the
populous city of Chemequeña, or Totonicapan ;
where the army was increased by the junctions
of several chiefs^ bringing up their forces from 8
strong towns and 18 villages within their juris-
diction, amounting to no less than 90,000 fighting
men. He continued his march to Quezal tenango,
where he was joined by 10 more chiefs with mag-
nificent trains, well armed and supplied with pro-
visions; displaying all the gorgeous insignia of
their ranks, and attended by 24,000 soldiers. At
the same place he was reinforced by 46,000 more
combatants, adorned with plumes of different co-
lours, and provided with arms of every descrip-
tion ; the chiefs were decorated with the skins of
lions, tigers, and bears, as distinguishing marks of
their bravery and warlike prowess: this numerous
squadron was commanded by 11 officers, all de-
scendants of the renowned Capichoch. Tecum
Umam, with all these reinforcements, now mar-
shalled 232,000 warriors under his banners ; the
di^erent divisions were posted on the plain of
Tzaccaha, the field of battle of this first cam-
paign. The monarch, at the head of this nume-
rous army, had not sufficient reliance upon it to
390
tiiink himself secure : he fortified his camp with
a wall of loose stones, which was so extensive
as to enclose within its circuit several mountains;
the wall was farther strengthened by a deep ditch,
lined with poisoned stakes placed slantwise in
rows, one behind the other. AH the country from
Tzaccaha to the pass leading to the coast, was
occupied by the squadrons of Tecum Umam,
besides which* there were many well fortified
towns ; in the camp there were several military
machines, or small portable castles, formed of
beams and planks, which being placed on rollers
were moved from one place to another by armed
men; these were filled with great quantities of
pikes, arrowy, lances, shields, slings, and . stoaes,
and attended by chosen bodies of active soldiers,
who distributed the munitions to the diiTerent
divisions of the army.
The Spaniards having crossed the province of
Soconusco, arrived at Palahunoh, a range of
mountains which they ascended, and captured
the strong place and castle of Xetulul or Sapo-
titlan, but not without the troops suffering much
from fatigues, and the loss of many orf the Tlas-
caltecan allies killed. The army pursued its
march, and on arriving at the River Zamalá,
was vigorously attacked from an ambush by a
lai^ef body of Indians, who attempted to check
its progress : while the troops were forming, the
enemy discharged immense quantities. of pikes,
arrows, and stones, which occasioned consider-
able loss among the. Indian allies : as soon as the
Spanish squadron had deployed, it opened a fire
of musketry upon the Quichés, which killing a
great many of them, they were quickly defeated
391
and put to ¿light ; but the victory cost the lives of
some Earopean soldiers. The «nemy were not so
dismayed as to prevent their rallying; they brought
up fresh troops, and renewed the attack upon the
Spaniards 3 times with great fury, and maintained
the combat steadily until some of their leaders were
killed, when they retired with precipitation. The *
Spaniards now thought themselves relieved from
the assaults of the barbarians, and having passed
the River Zamalá on a narrow wooden bridge,
took the road to Xelahuh, marching with the
utmost caution to avoid another surprise. They
began to ascend a steep ridge (now called the
ridge of Santa Maria de Jesus) by a very rough
difficult road, when an immense host of Indians
shewed themselves determined to resist the ad-
vance ; at the same time, the top of the height
was seen covered with the enemy ; another battle
was inevitable : in short, from the River Zamalá
to the Olintepeque, a series of 6 actions took
place, in all of which the Indians were defeated
with great slaughter: of these, that fought in
the defile of the latter river was the most despe-
rate and bloody ; the stream was reddened with
the carnage of the wretched Indians, and from
that time its name was changed for the significant
one of Xiquigel, or the river of blood. The enemy
retired, but soon formed again with fresh troops,
and renewed the contest : they attacked the Cas-
tilians with such furious desperation, that 3 or
4 of them seized the tail of each horse, and en-
deavoured by main force to overthrow both it
and the rider : this was one of the severest con-
flicts in which the Spaniards bad been hitherto
engaged ; immense bodies of the enemy sur-
392
roupded and pressed upon them in all directions ;
but their courage^ superior to every danger, res-
cued them from the perilous situation ; tbey
pierced the solid squadrons of the Quichés,
broke them, and totally routed .the whole army :
an immense number was left dead on the field,
and among them the general, Ahzumanche.
After this defeat, the Indians remained 3 days
without attempting any farther operations, and
4he Spaniards availed themselves of that cessa-
tion for refreshment after the great fatigues they
had sustained ; not in quarters at Quezaltenango,
as Herrera reports, but on the open plain. On
the fourth day the army advanced to the city of
Xelahuh, which they found abandoned by the in-
habitants. Detachments were sent in search of
the epemy, and many prisoners were brought in,
who reported that in the last action, 2 of the most
important personages of Utatlan had been killed;
Ahzol, a general and a relation of the king, and
Apocob, the king's shield-bearer, who commanded
one of the large divisions of the army ; they also
said, that the inhabitants had fled to the moun^
tains to escape the vengeance they expected the
Spaniards would take for the resistance that had
been made: assurance of peace and good treatment
having been repeatedly given, they began to re-
turn in great numbers, and afterward served in
the Spanish army with great fidelity. At this
time, it was discovered that all the force of the
surrounding country had been collected to make
another attack on the Spaniards, and that the
advanced body of the Indians consisted of 2
xiquipiles, or 16,000 men. The army imme-
diately quitted the city, and took up a favour-
393
able positiÓD on a plain where ttiere was neither
impediment nor commanding eminence: the ca-
valry, consisting of 135 men, was divided into 2
troops, one commanded by Pedro de Portocar-
rero, and the other by Hernando de Chaves;
Alvarado himself commanded the infantry. The
army of the Indians was formed into 2 very strong
divisions, commanded by Tecum Umam in person.
As soon as the contending parties came within
reach of each other, a furious combat ensued ;
ode of the Indian divisions, being attacked by the
cavalry, was forced to abandon its position, and
retire for support towards the other, which was re-
solutely engaged with the infantry; on the defeat
of the first division the cavalry rejoined the main
body, where the general had, by several small de-
tachments, been able to resist the force of Tecum
Umam : the king personally attacked Alvarado,
and .wounded his horse so severely, that he was
forced to dismount, and procure another. Tecum
Umam renewed his assault upon the general a
second and even a third time, and in the last en-
counter received a wound from a lance, by the
hand of Alvarado, of which he died almost im-
mediately. The fury of the Indians was increased
to madness on seeing their monarch fall ; the
discharge of pikes, arrows, and stones that fol-
lowed, was more violent than any thing that had
been hitherto witnessed ; a critical moment was
seized for attacking in close column, and that
manoeuvre decided the fate of the day : the Indians,
unable to make head against this solid body,
yielded to despair, and broke away in the most
precipitate flight, leaving the Spaniards com.
pletel y masters of the field.
394
Hopeless of being able longer to resist tbe cod^
qaerors by the force of tlieir arms, they had recourse
to stratagem andtreachery, which was deternaioed
upon in a council of war held in Utatlan, by the
King Chignauivcelot, son and successor of Tecum
Umam. To put their design into practice, the
king began by sending a solemn embassy to
Alyarado with a^Taiuable present of gold^ to sue
for peace and fiurgiveness for the past, and to
offer submission to the Spanish monarch ; the
ambassadors entretated the general to visit the
oapitaU where he might conveniently refresh him-^
sdf after his late severe fatigues, and where. the
king was anxions to receive and entertain him
with whatever his dominions could afford. Al-
varado most anxiously desired to estabiisb peace,
and this invitation being considered a favourable
opportunity, he received the ambassadors with
every mark of distinction and kindness.; he pro-
mised to repair to Utatlan, and dismissed them
with presents of some trifles of Spimish workman-
ship, that were hi^ld in tbe highest estimation by
the Indians* On the following day, the army de-
camped for Utátlan^ in the highest spirit, believ-
ing tbe demonstrations of the Quichés, to be sin-
cere, and supposing that the war was terminated.
But on entering the city^ . and observing the
strength of the place, that it viras well walled and
surrounded by a deep ravine, having but two ap-
proaches to it ; the one by an ascent of 25 steps,
and the other by a causeway, both of which were
extremely narrow ; that the streets were but of
trifling breadth, and the houses very lofty^; per-
ceiving also that there were, neither women or
children in the place, and that the Indians ap^
395
peared greatly agitated, the soldiers b^ao tosms-
pect some deceit. Their apprdiensions were
soon confirmed by the Indian» ^f Qnezaltenango,
who accompanied the amy ; these bad discover-
ed, that the people of Utatlan intended that night
to set the tawn on fire, in orderto destroy the
Spaniards ; and that large bodies of them were
concealed in the neighbouring defiles, who were,
as soon as they, saw the flames^ to fall upon the
Spaniards, as they endeavoured to escape from the
fire : on gaining this intelligence, the troops ob-
served the movements of the Utatlans very cau-
tiously ; they examined the houses, and ascer-
tained that there was no preparation of victuals to
legale, them, as they had been promised ; but that
there yt^as in every place a great quantity of light
dry fuel and other combustibles. Alvarado no
longer doubted the correctness of the hiformation ;
he assembled a council ,^ represented to the offi-
cers the perilous situation in which they were in-
volved, and the immediate necessity of quitting
the place : Üie troops w^re tlien collected, and
without any appearance of alarm, marched out in
good order to the open plain ; pretending to Chig-
nauivcelut and his caciques, that they quitted the
city for the better accommodation of the horses,
which were accustomed to feed at liberty in the
fields : the king with pretended courtesy accom-
panying the army to the plain, the general avail-
ed himself of this opportunity to make him a pri-
soner ; and after a triaV in which proofs of his
treachery were adduced, he was sentenced to be
hanged, and the punishment immediately inflicted.
Neither the death of Tecum Umam and their
principal leaders slain in battle, nor the igno-
396
tninions execution of Chígnáuivcelat was sufficient
to intimidate the fierce spirit of the Quichés ;
on the contrary^ it excited fresh ebullitions of rage
and animosity ; they gave the signal to the troops
that lay in ambush^ and a general attack upon the
Spaniards ensued : the army was assaulted simul-
taneously on all sides by powerful squadrons of
the Indians ; but Spanish bravery increased with
increasing dangers ; the artillery was brought
into action^ and made dreadful havoc in the
enemy's ranks, who however maintained the con-
test with desperate valour for a short time; but
they were soon thrown into confusion : the lead-
ers were unable to rally their troops against the
destructive fire of the guns, and they abandoned
a field already covered with heaps of slain ; some
fled to their places of refuge, and others threw
away their arms in token of submission, and sur-
rendered themselves and their caciques to the ge-
nerosity of their conquerors, who by this victory
remained undisputed masters of the kingdom.
Notwithstanding the treachery of the late sove-
reign, Alvarado would not deprive the royal race
of Tanub of their inheritance ; he therefore raised
Sequechul, the next in succession to Chignauiv-
celut, to the throne. Juan de Leon Cardona was
left in command of the forces stationed in the
province, and Alvarado set out for Guatemala.
CHAP. XXXVI.
The Entry of the Spaniards into Guatemala, the
Capital of the King of the Kachiqueles.
The kingdom of Quiche being finally sub-
397
jugated by the late defeat of the natives, Al varado
ODce more entered the city of Utatlan with his
army^ and remained there 8 days, examining
every part of it, and exploring the surrounding
country, by sending detachments against soiiie of
the villages. that had not yet formally submitted to
his authority. In this interval he received am-
bassadors from Sinacam, king of Guatemala,
bringing a present of gold, with offers to acknow-
ledge himself a vassal of the Spanish monarch,
and to furnish troops and other necessaries for
prosecuting the war. Alvarado received these
messengers of peace with caresses, and every de-
monstration of respect ; he requited them with
gifts, and accepting the tenders of Sinacam, re-
quested 2000 Indians to conduct his troops, and
point out the best roads, which he was unac-
quainted with. The monarcli immediately sent
the required number of Kachiquels all well
armed, who cleared the roads^ and attended the
army with the greatest assiduity until they con-
ducted it to the capital. Although the Spaniards
were convoyed by the Indians sent by Sinacam,
who acted officiously and submissively in all re-
spe.cts, and endeavoured to be useful on every
occasion ; yet in passing through the Kachiquel
territory, dead bodies of Indians, lacerated limbs
and marks of carnage, were frequently observed ;
troops of armed Indians were incessantly seen ;
and as they had before narrowly escaped the
treachery of the Quichés, they were not without
suspicions of some sinister designs on the part of
their present allies. With these doubts and fears
as their companions, Alvarado and his people pur-
598
sued their inarch until they came in sight of Si-
nacam, who waa advancing to meet them in his
litter, richly adorned with plnmes of quezaUs fea-
thers, and ornaments of gold, accompanied by the
principal officers of his conrt. Alvarado dis-
mounted, and approached the king with courtesy
and respect ; and on presenting him with a cu-
rious piece of wrought silver, frankly declared his
suspicions, saying " Why do you endeavour to do
me an injury, who cometo render you a serviced
When the áiithfül and unofiending Sinacam un-
derstood from the interpreters the question ad-
dressed to him by Alvarado, he assumed a serious
look, and thanking him for the gift, replied with
great mildness, " Let thy heart be at rest, great
captain, son of the sun, and confide in my love ;"
continuing his discourse, he assured the general,
that ¿ill the preparations for war he had observed,
were not directedagainst the Teules (or gods, as
the Spaniards were called), but one of his own sub-
jects who had rebelled, and was supported in his
revolt by the kings of Quiche and Zutugil; that
he had taken up arms only to protect his peace-
able subjects, and maintain himself as an inde-
pendent sovereign. The 2 chiefs, at the head
of their respective suites, then continued their
way towards Guatemala (not by the villages on
the sea-^shore, as related by a certain author^ but
by therouteof itzapa; for in a title deed of some
lands held by the Parramo Indians, and which
were granted on the 10th November, 1577, speak-
ing of, a plain over which this road passes, there
are these words, ^^ Where it is said the camp of
the Spaniards was pitched when Don Pedro de
3^9
Alvar^ido carne to conquer this couatry'') ; whidi
they entered on the 25th of July, 1524, the festival
of St. James the apostle.
A doubt has arisen that is worthy of being ex-
amined, viz. Which was the city of Guatemala,
the capital of Kachiquel, where Sinacam received
Alvarado and his troops ; and where was this
great metropolis situated? On this point -the 3
historians of Guatemala disagree; Antonio Re-
mesaiy speaking of the city, says, (lib. 1, cap. 2,)
that on the Spaniards arriving at the place called
Almulunca by the Mexican Indians, they built
several huts for their habitations, and a larger one
for a church : this work being concluded, they
waited until St. James's day, which was near at
hand, and then laid the foundation of the city,
choosing the apostle as its patron and protector ;
but this author does not, in any way, speak of
the capital of the Kachiquel or Guatemalteca
kingdom.
The next» Francisco Vasquez, (lib. 1, cap. 1
and 14,) agrees with Remesal in respect to the
foundation of the metropolis at Almulunca; but
relates the arrival of the Spaniards at Guatemala
more in detail, and says, that from Utatkm, the
capital of the Quichés, tbey proceeded to the
capital of the Kachiquels^ where Alvarado and
b|$ army were received with every mark of esteem
and demonstration of joy, by the king, whom he
calls Apotsotzil ; but in the books of the cabildo,
the same monarch is named Sinacam. After re-
maining several days at this place, and receiving
the most respectful attentions from the Indian
monarch, he set out again to undertake the con-
quest of Atitan, proceeding by the coast of the
400
l^acific Ocean, subduing such of the nations as
attempted to stay his progress, until he reached
Almulunca, where he founded the city of Guate-
mala; laying it down as a well ascertained fact, that
the court of the Indian prince, where the general
had spent some days to refresh his tro,ops, was the
great city of Tecpanguateraala. Vasquez sup-
ports himself in the belief that this place was the
capital of the Kachiquel kingdom ; in the first
place^ because the natives gave it the name of
Patinamit, the meaning of which word expressed
in European language, is " the ñrst city in the
kingdom," or its capital. Secondly, he corro-
borates his opinion by the etymology of Tecpan-
guatemala, the other name of the same place,
which, in the idiom of the natives, means " the
royal house of Guatemala," also implying the
court of their kings. Thirdly, he adduces sup-
port of the correctness of his inference, from the
general splendour of the city, and the magnifi-
cence of the palaces and public buildings, which
is sufficiently demonstrated by the fragments
and vestiges of these works, that the author
says he had seen in the j^lace called by the In-
dians Ohertinamit, or the old city, as the court of
Patinamit was at first established there. Finally,
he is confirmed in his opinion by the style of forti-
fication adopted in this place, which is very similar
to that of Utatlan ; it being, as already mentioned,
built on an eminence, surrounded by a deep ra-
vine, admitting of only one very narfow entrance
to the city.
Francisco de Fuentes y Guzman (tom. 1, lib. 3,
cap. 1,) takes a course diametrically opposite to
the 2 preceding authors, by desci-ibiDg the city
401
of Guatemala» the court of the Kacbiquel kiogB/
as situated at the place now called St. Miguel
Tzacualpa» which means the old town : he says»
the Spaniards entered it on St. James's day ; not
by the route of the sea-coast, but by the way of
Itzapa; crossing the country now known as the
valley of Panchoi, in which the village of Jocote-
nango stands, and that he founded the city in
1542: he adds, that they were well received by
the King Sinacam, who made them presents, and
treated them with great festivity; that they pitched
their camp there, and remained until the year just
mentioned. This author adduces various reasons
in support of his hypothesis ; the first is, that
among the Spaniards it was the invariable practice
to give to the cities founded by them, the names
of existing places in Spain ; such as Truxillo and
Valladolid in the province of Comayagua ; Leon»
Granada, and Segovia, in that of Nicaragua ; (tár-
tago, Xeres, Ciudad Real, and New Saragossa, in
other provinces; Durango, Guadalaxara, Ante-
quera, Merida, and others in the kingdom of New
Spain. To cities which they found already es*
tablished, they left the original names, as Mexico^
Cuzco, Tlaxcala, and n)any more ; whence he iur
fers, that as Guatemala retains its original name,
the Spaniards did not found it, but establisb(K^
themselves in it.
His second reason is deduced irom the etymo-
logy of the name of Guatemala, which he derives
from the word Coctecnialan, that means '* milk
wood,'* a peculiar tree found only at the Old
City, -and about a league round about it; and
therefore assumes as a position, that the city must
necessarily have been situated within that space:
2 D
403
it could not however have been on the spot where^
Old Gaatemála dow stands, for this place has
always been known by the name of Pancboi,
which signifies the '' great lake;" nor at the
place called Ciudad Vieja^ as that has always re-
tained the appellation of A tmulunca, or the ** W3tet
that springs up V it is therefore necessary to lo^
cate Guatemala, the capital of the Kachiquel In-
diansy on Úie flank of the mountain called the
Volcan de Agua, where stood the Spanish to wit
that was destroyed in 1541, and where now is the
little village of St. Miguel Tzacualpa. The name
of this place strongly confirms such an opinioB,
as it means, in the idiom of the Indians, '* the old
town,** and consequently the ancient city of
Guatemala stood there ; by similitude, the ancient
¿ity of Tecpangoatemala was called Obertinamit,
which also, means ^* the old town.*^
Again, the third reason for this opinion is, that
it is contrary to common sense to suppose with
Vasquez, the first conquerors, after having taken
up their quarters in Guatemala, would again quit
it for the purpose of encamping in a wilderness ;
because, if these men who came to receive the
homage and obedience of Sinacam^ were peace-
ably received by that monarch, settled and feasted
in his residence, why i^hould they quit aU tb^sé
conveniences, at the hazard of incurring the ill
will of the sovereign, to found a city, and Imild
themselves habitations, when the capital of the
kingdom wasattheir command ; to fatigue tbem-*
selves in search of every thing they wanted, when
they could enjoy inexhaustible abundance in the
city ? If it be admitted, that when the Spaniards
entered the kingdom in 1524, th^ established
405
themselves in the capital, it fellows cODsequently
tíml it was at Tzacualpa : for it appears in the
books of the cabildo^ that when they were con-
templating a permanent establishment, all the
situations where it was supposed convenient to
settle in, were carefully surveyed ; and on the
21st of November, 1527, it was resolved, in full
council; that a removal was not advisable : also
that it remained on the same spot where it had
been marked out in 1527, until 1541, when it was
destroyed, and that this spot was Tzacualpa;
for there the foundations c^ the city were seen
in tibe time of Fuentes; and there at the pre^
sent period may be distinguished directly above
the village of Tzacualpa, the deep channel made
by the torrent of water, and detached masses of
rock, by which the old town was overwhelmed :
from these circumstances it may safely be affirmed,
Üiatthe cky of Guatemala, the capital of the Ka-
ebiquel kings, was situated where Tzacualpa now
standa
This author certainly labours hard to support
his hypothesis, and the arguments adduced give
it great plausibility ; but as they are not of suffi-
cient weight to remove every doubt, the matter
must be left to the discretion of the reader, who
will adopt that which may appear to him most ac*
cordant with probability. As the etymology of the
word Guatemala, a point in which there is a dis-
crepancy between the different authors already
noticed in an early part of this volume, has been
relied up€m as a proof, the author of the present
work ventures to uphold with much deference,
an ofrinion differing horn all those who have
touched upon the subject^ and to derive ii from
2 D 2
404
the name of Juiteiiial, the first king of Guatemala;
relying upon the strong resemblance between the 2
words; for it cannot be an overstrained inference^
that what was at first called the kingdQui of Jui-
temal, mighty by an insensible corruption or soften*
ing of the term» be afterward changed into the.
kingdom of Guatemala: he is warranted in the
conjecture by similar variations, as» for instance,
the place anciently called by the Indians Atmu-
lunca, is now Almolonga; and the original name
Zezontlatl, has- yielded to the more harmonious
wordZonzonate. It was a practice observed among
the native inhabitants, to call kingdoms and towns
by the name of the monarchs or chiefs who go*
verned them ; thus the natives of the kingdom
of Utatlan were called Quichés, from Nimaquiché,-
who led them from Tula to that kingdom; the
Kachiquels, from the kingdom of Kachiqueleh;
Zutugiles from Zutugileh. In like manner, the
capital of Rabinaleb, cacique of Verapaz, was
called iRabinal; even the Spaniards have followed
the same nomenclature, by giving the name Nica-
ragua to the territory of the cacique Nicaragua,and
Nicoya to the possession of the cacique Nicoya.
CHAP. XXXVII.
Of the different Positions of the City of Guate-
mala under the Dominion of the Spaniards*
Whether it was in the little town that the
Spaniards at first built betvveen the 2 volcanoes,
a3 some writers think, or in the capital of
King Sinacam, nearly on the same spot^ as main-
tained by othefs, that they fixed their quarters;/
405
it is certain the election was only provisionally
made; nntil tbey could complete the necessary -
surveys, and choose^ after careful examination, a
spot that would present all the advantages they
desired, for founding the metropolis of their
new kingdom. During the 3 years that elapsed
from their arrival, to the formal establishment of
the city at Tzacualpa, there occurred frequent
discussions among them upon the good and bad
qualities of places, the proximity of materials for
buildings, and the climate that would be most
conducive to the general health. -The subject
having been repeatedly debated in private, was
at last brought before a council on the 28th of
October, 1527. At this congress, the lieutenant-
governor George de Alvarado, the alcaldes, and
regidors, delivered their opinions, that it was es-
sential to the service of the king, as well as to the
policy and good government of the country, that
the city of St. Jago de Guatemala should be esta-
blished with all the necessary formalities; and
that a proper situation should be chosen in which
all the local advantages required for the capital
of a kingdom would be combined. From that
day researches were carried on with greater zeal
than before^ and as there were almost as many
places proposed, as there were individuals to give
a vote, it was determined the question of choice
should be limited to 2 ; viz. the one which they
then inhabited, and with which they had as yet
no cause to be dissatisfied ; and another, called
Tianguecilloon the plain of Chimaltenango, where
there was an abundant spring, the waters of which
flowed close by the village and thence to Coma-
lapan. -
406
To decide this point, an open cabildo^ composed
of the members of the administration, and other
persons. Hidalgos, and good men of the city, was
held on the 21st of November, 1527, under the
presidency of Greorge de Alvarado, when eacii
individual having taken an oath to vote according
to his conscience, without partiality or prejudice ;
Hernando de Alvarado said, that having examined
both situations carefully, he was of opinion Tiau*
guecillo should be preferred, and minutely de^
tailed his reasons for the preference; he was
followed by Elugenio de Moscoso, the king's trea*
surer, and others who supported bis choice.
Gonzalo de Oballe, a knight of Salamanca» was
on the other side, an advocate for the city's re-
maining where they were then settled, and de^
livered in writing the arguments by which be
supported bis vote : he waaseconded by the votes
of Juan Godinez, Pedro Portocarrero, Juan Perez
Dardon, and the greater part of the members.
On the following day, George de Alvarado, at-
tended by the alcalde, Oballe, the regidors, n»d
inhabitants went to the chosen spot, he then com*^
manded the secretary to draw up a process of the
following tenor, " I, by virtue of the powers in-
vested in me by his majesty's jgovernorgf, with the
consent and advice of the alcaldes and r^idors
here present, do estiüblish and found here, on this
spot, the city of St. Jago ; which said city is the
boundary of the province of Guatemala." He
next ordered the great square and the place for
the church to be marked out, also the hospital of
La Misericordia, the chapel of the Virgen de los
Remedios, the fortress, the town house, and the
prison : he concluded by taking possession, in the
407
kind's t}aine;of tbe city, the province/ and the^d^
joiqiog districts. Authors who have written on
the affairs pf this kingdom, do not certainly agree
in this point of its history, each relatiqg the event
according to the opinion given by him, relative to
the situation of the city under its native governors;
therefore, those who assert that the Spaniards
established themselves provisionally in Almo*
langa, maintain that the new city was traced out
on an adjoining site towards the west, at the
place called by the natives Tzacualpa; so that
the first town built in Almolonga remained as a
suburb of the new city: but those who supposed
the Spaniards fixed their head-quarters in Sina*
cam's capital, or the Guatemala of the Indians,
in Tzacualpa, contend that the city of St. Jago de
Guatemala was marked out on the ground occu-
pied by the Indian capital. On this spot it re-
mained from November, 1527, the period of its
formal foundation, until November, 1542, when
Üie present city of Old Guatemala was planned.
The first city had but little chance of being ad-
vanced to a prospelrous condition, for in less than
14 years after the foundation was laid, namely»
OD tíie 11th of September, 1541, it was ruined by
the inundation of a dreadful torrent of water that
suddenly descended from the volcano, sweeping
before it immense masses of rock, by which
many of the buildings were overwhelmed, and
all the others much injured. By this disaster,
the old city, in its material character, was levelled
to the^ground ; and in a political sense was de-
prived of its chief, and greatly diminished in the
number of its inhabitants, many of whom perished
under the ruins, particularly Doña Beatriz de la
408
Co^a, widow of Pedro de Alvarado^ who had
been elected governess by the ayuntamiento.
In this melancholy position of aflkirs, the inhabit-
ants considered of the most expedient means to
repair the injuries they had sustained. They
first elected a governor, and then deliberated on
the best method of securing themselves from fu-
ture misfortunes by the volcano. A council was
held on the 17th of September, of the same year,
in which the members, assisted by the assessor,
Don Bias Cota, came to a rei^olution, '' That the
licentiate, Don Francisco de la Cueba, should re-
sign the staff of lieutenant-governor, but without
prejudice to any right he might possess." This
resolution being complied with, on the following
day, the 18th, the council was resumed, when
Don Francisco Marroquin, and the licentiate,
Francisco de la Cueba, were chosen governors ad
interim^ and the election made public by procla-
mation. The next subject that came under con-
sideration was the removal of the city from the
side of the mountain; but while they were holding
a meeting in the cathedral to discuss this pointy
several shocks of earthquake were felt in quick
succession ; and as the business under delibera-
tion required more mature reflection than could
then be given to it, from the apprehensions enter-
tained that the church would be thrown down^
and crush the people assembled in it, the con-
ference was adjourned.
On the 27th of September, another council (as
appears in the records relating to the second
foundation, that are preserved in the archives of
the cabildo) was held, and attended by the go-
vernor, the other members, and 43 of the inhabit-
409
lintel altogether amounting to 55 votes. The
question proposed for debate was, whether, for
Che perpetuity of the general government, and for
better maintaining peace in the provinces, it would
be most advisable that the city should be rebuilt
on the same site, or that another situation should
be chosen ? On collecting the Votes, 43 were in
favour of a removal, 5 against it, and 7 indifferent
as to one measure or the other. The removal
being carried in the affirmative, the next impor-
tant question was, in what situation shall the
new city be built? To decide this point satisfac-
torily, it was determined, the 2 alcaldes, and 11
other persons chosen from among the members
of the assembly, should be deputed to examine
and survey proper situations; which being done,
they were to make a report to the governors and
constituted authorities. In 2 days the deputa-
tion executed its commission, and drew up a re-
port, in which they unanimously concurred, that
the most eligible situation for the new capital
would be the valley of Tianguecillo, on the plains
of Chimaltenango. The determination of this
point being an affair of great public moment,
it was reserved for a general congress con-
voked on the 2d of October. Seventy-eight per-
sons met in this assembly, who, after taking an
oath to deliver their opinions uninfluenced by fa-
vour or affection, fear or interest, came to a divi-
sion, when there appeared to be 29 voices in fa-
vour of the valley of Alotenango, and 49 for that
of Chimaltenango. In consequence of this majo-
rity, the governors issued an edict, commanding
the new city to be founded in the valley of Tian-
guecillo ; and that all persons, who were holders
410
of groQDd in the ruined city, should repair to the
newly chosen spot^ where they would receive air
lotments proportioned to their former possessions.
In this conjuncture, Juan Bautista Antonelli»
an engineer employed by the king, with instruc-
tions from the supreme council, to form plana for
building cities and towns, and to make choice of
secure and well-sheltered ports, with good anchor-
age, on the northern coast of the kingdom, arr
rived at Guatemala. Having examined, by order
of the governors, the situations most appropriate
for the new city, he reported to the council that
he had surveyed, with great care and attention>
the valleys of Las Yacas, Chimaltenango, Alote-
nango. Milpas de Luiz de Al varado, and of Pedro
Gonzalez Naxera, and the valley of Tuerto or
Panchoi ; in all of which, except, the last, so
many deficiencies were obvious, that the city, if
built in either of them, would not be likely to
prosper : he enumerated the inconveniencies pe-
culiar to each situation, and concluded by stating
his opinion^ that the valley of Panchoi was the
only place suitable for the object in view ; because
the city would be there removed from all danger
of another inundation from the volcano, and be
sheltered by the ridge of mountains on the north.
There was abundance of excellent water, that de-
scending from the mountains, runs through the
valley almost level with the surface of the soil,
and might therefore be conducted by canals to
all parts with the greatest ease ; that as there were
no inequalities of ground, the regular formation
of squares and streets could not be interrupted ;
and that how much soever it might be found ne-
cessary to increase the extent of it, in future times,
411
there would be ample space, eyen to a circumfe-
rence ^8 or 9 leagues; that in all seasons it
would enjoj the benefit of the sun, and of a soil
so fertile as to be covered wi^ herbage through-
out the year, affording excellent pasturage for
üocks and herds ; that provisions were inexhausti*
bly abundant; that there were many villages
from which the capital might draw all sorts of
supplies ; that materials for making bricks and
tiles were close at hand ; and that, at the distance
of 2 or 3 miles, there were quarries in the moun-
tains^ with plenty of lime and gypsum equally
near. For these reasons, he affirmed, that th^
valley of Tuerto ought to be preferred to every
other situation for the city of St. Jago.
These ai^uments appeared to the * governors
and others so little liable to be impugned, the
principles on which they were founded being so
notorious, that they were forced to yield asdent
to them ; and being stimulated by the clamours
of the inhabitants, they resolved the city should
be immediately mgj*ked out in the valley of
Tuerto : on this spot the city of Old Guatemala
now stands. The council, in which this decision
was made^ took place on Üie 22d of October,
1541 ; and such was the zeal of the people in car-
rying on the work, that by May, 1542, a great
part of the city was inhabited, although the com^
plete demarcation of it was not finished before
the 21st of November, 1542. Here then, in the
valley of Tuerto or Panchoi, stood the capital of
the kingdom, until the year 1770, when it was
transferred to the valley of Las Yacas, in con-
sequence of the devastation occasioned by the
earthquake in 1773.,
412
It is necessary to introdace in this place one
observation, namely, that althongb the shocks on
the 29th of June, 1773, were violent in the ex-
treme, and the ruin caused by them of a most
frightful nature, yet neither the one nor the other
was of that appalling character represented in two
works printed at Mexico in 1774. The writers
of these two narratives have drawn a picture of
this event so exaggerated and over-coloured, that
those who had the misfortune to be witnesses of
the reality, dreadful as it was, are unable to trace
the event from such ijescriptions of it* In these
narratives the most excursive genius would be
unable to descry any approach to veracity. That
the reader may be enabled to form an opinion for
himself, ohe extract from each will suffice. The
first writer, having given a minuté detail of the la-
bours endured in finding out and examining va<
rious situations for a new capital^ gives an account
of the state of Guatemala after the earthquake,
extracted from the official reports of the injuries
sustained. In this relation^ at page 12, occurs
the following sentence : '* In the convent of Las
Niñas de la Presentación," says the engineer, '^ the
church was split into four parts, and the vaults
entirely destroyed." Unfortunately for the pre-
cision of this engineer's account^ there are now
many surviving witnesses that this church never
had any vaults: that the earthquake should be
accused of destroying that which never had ex-
istence, is doing it a manifest injustice. In the
second work, one of the most clumsy and ill-
contrived fables ever yet invented, is given in
very pompous terms. In pages 30 and 31, it is
said, '^ Persons of the greatest authority,, upon
1
413
vrhoáe veracity ud suspicioo can rest, are able to
bear testimony», that on the evening of this formi-
dable and ruinous earthquake» they saw the gi*-
gaptic Volcan de Agua divided into 2 parts [by
the violence of its impulse; that the divisions
Mrere palpably separated from each other; but by'
the prolongation of the shock, they were after-
ward restored to their former situations» and
again firmly united." A phenomenon of this ex-
traoi*dinary character, a novelty so stupendous,
was unperceived by thousands of persons now:
living» who were indeed spectators of the laments-
able catastrophe that afflicted their country ; but
none of them saw this portentous aperture ; no
one was aware of this tremendous separation and;
reintegration : in fact» when this extraordinary
narration made its appearance» they were as un-
conscious of the fact as if it had happened at Ve-
suvius or Hecla. It is» in fact» unnecessary to
ask, bow a phenomenon, that, had it occi:^rred»
must have been palpable to the senses of every
one» should have been noticed only by those "per-
sons of the greatest authority," who related it to
the author : or is it probable» that these same per-
sons» ^' upon whose veracity no suspicion can rest»"^
should have communicated so wonderful an event
to that writer only» and unrelentingly have con-
demned themselves to keep the wonder a secret
from every other person» and that too at a time
when it was thought meritorious to make known,
and exaggerate every thing likely to be adverse to
the unfortunate place ? These reflections have not
been elicited by any desire to cast an odium upon
the writers of the works in question ; but as the
narratives, containing such circumstantial, and» as
4U
liiey are called^ auti>eiitic details, hare bees
printed and circnlated, tke author of the present
history has thought himself bound to notice them ;
for, aa in the course of his work no mention is
otherwise made of such wonderfa) occurrences,
he might be blamed for omitting an account of
so great a geological prodigy as the sundering
and reunion of an immense mountain.
The city of Guatemala^ correctly speaking,
was greatly injured by the earthquake of 1773,
but was not so generally dilapidated as it ap-
peared to the terrified, or it may perhaps be said,
to the interested imaginations of architects, engi-
neers, and notaries. Great damage was certainly
done in some quarters, particularly in those on
elevated situations, as La Candelaria, St. Do-»
mingo, Chipilapa^ and part of St. Sebastian : in
the centre of the city some houses were destroyed,
but more remained unhurt, or injured only in a
slight degree, as they sufficiently shew at this
day : in the lower quarters of St. Francisca, Tor-
tuguero, Cbajon,^ and others, the effect upon the
buildings was very slight. As to the most sump-
tuous buildings and public works, viz. the cathe-
dral, with other churches^ the palaces and con-
vents, for the most part it would have been neces-
sary to pull them down entirely; on the other
hand, as it was a fact well known from experience,
that since the Spaniards first settled in that valley,
either at Tzacualpa or Pancboi, a term of 50
years had never elapsed without the city's suf-
fering some injury ; it appeared most desirable
to remove the capital once more, although at
much greater expense, than to rebuild it in the
same situation. The latter alternative would
4l&
bave been much easier, and less costly^ but tfai¿
would have been /labouring upoQ a calculation c4
only 30 or 40 years' duration of the work ; and by
placing it on another spot, its permanencf» might
fairly be anticipated for a much longer tetm.
This kind of reasoning was strengthened by the
circumstance, that when the removal of the oa^
pital was in agitation, on account of the earth-'
quake on the 29th of September, 1717, which
was said to have been much less disastrous than
the last, the subject was referred to the viceroy
of New Spain, who gave his opinion in favour of
the measure^ by a dispatch received on the 4th
of December, in the same year ; but it was not
then carried into effect. Now, however, whea
the devastation was greater than it ever had been
before, the opinion of the viceroy, remote both as
to time and place, was again brought forward in
aid of the transfer.
A meeting of the principal inhabitants Was held
on the 4th and 5tb of August, 1773, in which the
reinoval was resolved, subject to the king's ap-
probation. The next consideration was the choice
of a place, and as there was a great diversity of
opinion on this point, it was agreed to take a tem-
porary station at the little village called Hermita,
cont^uous to the valley of Las Yacas, while the
valleys of Jalapa, Jumai, and any other whidt
might be deiemed convenient, could be dnly exa-
mined. On the 9th of August, another meeting
Was held to appoint commissioners for surveying
the (Ht>posed situations, and aiscertaining their
advantages or disadvantages, when the senidr
oidor, Don Juan Gonzalez Bustillo, was ap-
pointed by 43ie goVernc»* ; the prebends. Dr. Juan
416
GtíDzalez Batrez^and Dr. Juan Antonio Digbero/
hj thé archbishop ; the r^dor, Don Francisco
Chamorra, and the licentiate, Juan Manuel Ze-
l&ya» by the secular cabildo. On the 19th of
August, these commissioners, accompanied by
Bernardo Ramerez, and other persons, set out
on their mission: they carefully examined the
valleys of Jumai and Jalapa, according to the
terms of their instructions, and returned to the
Hermita. At the latter place their labours were
resumed, and performed with more precision, as
they were exposed to the view of a greater num-«
ber of observers, ancient inhabitants of the valley,
as well as physicians, engineers, and architects,
each giving the preference to that spot where his
own profession appeared most likely to be inte-
rested. These and other necessary services be-^
ing completed, mandates were issued to the arch-
bishop,, religious communities, corporations, and
others concerned, for a general meeting to be
held on the 10th of January, 1774. The assem-^
bly met at the temporary establishment, and the
business was opened. The two following days
were occupied in reading the reports made on the
subject ; this being finished, an edict of the go-
vernor, dated the 12th, was then made public, in
which both the seculars and regidors were ex-
horted to deliver their opinions without restraint,
and according to their consciences, upon the two
following points: 1st, Whether it would be con-*
yenient to rebuild the city of Guatemala upon its
present site, or any of the surrounding lands?
Or, 2dly, in case of transferring the capital, which
will be the most advantageous position, the valley
of Jalapa, or the valley of Las Vacas ? The 14th
417
being appointed for the final decision, mass was
performed before the members, who then returned
to the councrl'^bamber, and proceeded to deliver
their votes On the first question, when there ap-
peared 4 in favour of rebuilding, and 75 for the
removal. The second question was carried una^
nimcMislyi that it would be more advantageous to
settle in the valley of Las Yacas, than in that of
Jalapa*
As the extent of this valley presented several
appropriate spots, the governor ordered the com-
missioners to survey them all. In compliance
with this command, they examined the plains
called La Culebra, Piedraparada, El Rodeo,
* and El Naranjo : that service being completed, re-
ports were passed to the royal chancery for their
deliberation ; the members composing this body
being of opinion, that the plain of El Rodeo was,
under all circumstances, to be preferred, the go-
vernor confirmed their decision, by an edict, on
the 24th of May, 1774. Matters being in this
state, the new fiscal of the royal audiencia, Don
José Sistué, arrived at Guatemala, and once
more agitated the question, whether the plain of
La Vii^en would not be preferable to El Rodeo
for the capital : this plain was therefore surveyed,
and as it seemed to ofler greater advantages than
El Rodeo, the former edict was revoked, and a
. new decree, ordering the city to be transferred to
the plain of La Virgen, was issued. A report
was made to the king of all that had been done,
and his majesty was pleased to signify his royal
pleasure, that the new city should be built on the
plain of La Virgen, contiguous to the temporary
establishment in the village of La Hermita^ as
2 £
418
appears by a decree, dated July 21, 1775. la
TÍrtae of these dispositions, the ayuntamiento took
possession on the 1st of January, 1776 ; the uni^
yersity of St. Carlos remoted thither in Noreaih
ber, 1777. On the 22d of November, t77a, di^
vine service was performed, lor the fiirst .time^. in
the temporary cathedral ; and in successions the
differ:ent parishes, convente, and churches, wera
taken possession of as fast as circumstances vrouki
peritfit
Some private individuals, many artisans, and a
gr^at part of the people, supposing, and, a» it
seems, not without reason, that the royal plee^
sure for removing the capital was intended as a
matter of favour to th^ whole community, but not
to force them tp abandon the dwellings and con*
veniencies they possessed in Old Guatemala and
seek habitations in the new capital, expected to
remain in the quiet enjoyment of theit homes.
The governors of the kingdom put a very diffident
construction upon the roy^l ^dict, and considered
the translation of the capital, not as a matter of
favour, bpt ^s a mandate for the total abandon*
ment of the. old qity ; they wei:e therefore io^
flexible in forcing the inhabitants to quit the pso^
scribed spil. These, though grieved at resigning
all they possessed in their old domicile^ were un-
willing to have it supposed they would oppose
tl^Q royal pjepswre^, and reluctantly quitted* their
l^bpdf^;' some repaired to the new city, others
r^tirqd to tlie neighbouring villages, sO that on
the 30th of June, jl,779, Old Guatemala, in cchu*?
plianqe with the goverp^i's positive orders, from
b^ipg the^busy haunt of men,, was trwsformed into
a dreary solitude ; the inhabitants thereby giving
419
a most heroic proof of obedience and submisBion
tp their governors»* The proscribed city remain^
ed in this state, until many of its former occupants^
forced by necessity, covertly resumed their an-
cient abodes ; and it has by degrees again become
peopled, and is now occupied by more than^ 8000
inhabitants.
CHAP. XXXVIII.
Of the Submission of the Zutugil Indians
to the Spaniards,
. While Pedro de Al varado remained with his
army in Sinacam's capital, the conversations with
that monarch frequently turned on the subject of
the unjust proceedings of his relation, the king of
Atitanychief of the Zutugiles, who had assisted the
cacique Acpocaquil in seizing some of the most
fkmrisbing parts of his kingdom ; these, according
to Yasquez, were Tecpanatitlan and its territory;
but according to Fuentes, Tecpanguatemala and
its dependencies. Sinacam adduced as a proof of
* The cruel and tyrannical proclamation issued by Dbn Ma-
tías át' Galvee, president of tbr royal audiencia, in the month
of June, 1779, for the desertion of Old Guatemala, deserves to.
be made generally known. He commanded that every inhabit-
aiit should quit the city within a prescribed (very small) num-
bjcr of days ; and that from the date qf the proclamation, no
artificer should there exercise his trade, without being liable to
very severe penalties. Until the publication of this order, it
waa a thii^ unheard) of in. any civilized counti^, that a maiv
should be prohibited from supporting his family by the honest
labour of his hands, at his settled abode. In consequence,
mauy of these poor peotíle were forced to the hard necessity of
quitting t^ piape, or of «ommitting robberies to afford suste-
nance to those dependant upon them ; yet notwithstanding the
monstrous severity of the mandatie, it was allowed to have its
fiift^effMr.
2 e2
430
the king of Atitao*» haughty character, that al-
though he was well acquainted with the splendid
Tictories of Tonaltiuh (Alvarado) and his Teules
(the Spaniards), he had not appeared to make his
submission to the powerful monarch of Castile ;
because he confided in the great numbers of well-'
disciplined troops, and in the vast strength of his
capital. The main object of the Spaniards being
to subjugate the whole country, little persuasion
was required for inducing them to undertake this
campaign ; but previous to commencing opera-
tions, Alvarado sent persons to reconnoitre the
situation, the fortifications, and other circum-
stances of Atitan (the capital). When the emis-
saries returned with their information, the general
was well aware the enterprise would be one of
great difficulty ; being also fearful that the ex-
ainple of these Indians might induce some of the
nations already subdued, to endeavour to throw
ofi* his yoke, he at first tried gentle means to ac-
complish his object, and sent an embassy to the
chief of the Zutugiles, with an offer of peace and
friendship on the part of the Spaniards ; 3 times
he repeated the invitations, but they were as often
ejected, and the messengers treated with asperity
and unequivocal marks of indignation.
These successive repulses irritated Alvarado,
and stimulated him to commence the campaign.
He left a sufficient garrison for the protection of
Guatemala, and began his march for Atitan ; his
force consisting of 40 horse, 100 infantry, and
2000 Guatemaltecan Indians, under his own im-
mediate command. He pursued his route by
easy marches, finding good and secure quarters
for his troops, being well supplied with provision^
421
and with plenty of forage for his horses : on ar-
riving in the environs of Atitan, he once more so-
licited the Zutugiles to avoid the necessity of mi-
litary operations ; they were however fixed in the
determination not to submit ; and not only took
arms against the ambassadors, but made a de-
monstration of attacking the army with a great
force;. In this interval, the Spaniards perceived a
strong body of the enemy posted on a rocky emi-
nence by the lake, at no great distance from them ;
and carefully considering, that to leave this na-
tural fortress so well garrisoned in their rear,
might entail very serious consequences upon them,
they advanced to the margin of the lake, and pro-
voked the enemy, by repeated discharges from
the cross-bows, which killing some men, irritated
the others so much, that they rushed from the
post, and attacked the Spaniards, who, after a
long and obstinate fight, were doubtful of being
ahje to obtain a victory, until they were relieved
by the cavalry coming to their assistance, and fu-
riously attacking the Indians, gave the infantry
sin opportunity of uniting their detachments ; after
which they forced the enemy to retire within their
fortifications.
During the, action the Guatemaltecan Indians
seized some of the enemy's boats, which were of
great service; for the Indians throwing themselves
into the water, and the infantry advancing in the
boats, they gained a footing upon a narrow cause-
way, soon .dislodged the besieged, and obtained
possession of the eminence ; the Atitans made se-
veral bold attempts to recover their post, but were
always repulsed by the fire of the musketry ;
when losing all hopes of victory, they plunged into
422
the water, and swam to a little island, leaving
many killed and wounded behind them ; they
were pursned by the victors, and after maintain-
ing an obstinate conflict on the island, were at
last obliged to submit.
A» soon as the Spaniards had completed this^
triumph, they landed their prisoners, and pro-
ceeded to ravage the villages on the banks of the
lake; these they found totally abandoned, and
on the following day the whole army marched
agahist Atitan. The troops met ^witb no impedí*
ments [n their way, and arriving before the place,
found it destroyed and abandoned ; an event hvA
tittle expected from the obstinate bravery of its
defenders. A 1 varado ordered the cavalry to
scour the surrounding country, as he suspected
this retreat to be only a feint to throw him off bis
guard ; the cavalry returned without discovering
any indications of an ambush, or other circam-
stance of suspicion, and bringing in -2 caciques
whom they had taken prisoners. The general
made use of these persons to send another mes-
sage to the king and the chiefe, inviting them to
accept terms of peace and submission to the king
of Spain, and return to their dwellings; promising
to deliver up all their countrymen, who were his
prisoners, and that they should receive kind and
honourable treatment from him ; but if they perv
sisted in their opposition, he declared he would
inflict the sanie species of hostilities upon them
as he had done upon those of Utatkm. The late
defeats iiad greatly lowered the haughty tone of
the Zutugiles, and after endeavpuring to colour
their submission with some specious pretext, 'the
king and the principal <;acique9 veturoed the foh
4S3
lowing answer : ** Since the time when King Axi-
'quat established this kingdom, the neighbouring
kings have vamly endeavoured to subdue it by
their arms ; but I, admiring the great worth and
power of the Spaniards, well knowing their
trinrophe and their bravery, am desirous, with
my i^aciques, and the principal persons of my
kingdom, to be their friend, and to pay obedience
to so great a monarch as the emperor of Castile,
who has such valiant and powerful subjects."
The joy and satisfaction of the Spanish army were
very ^eat, at seeing an enterprise so arduous,
consummated without the necessity of resorting to
more sanguinary operations; and the pleasure
was much heightened by a continuation of pro-
sperity, arising from the fame of their recent vic-
tory ; for all the places surrounding the lake sent
presents of gold and mantles^ and submitted td
their authority. Alvarado received these new
subjects with all the kindness and conciliation
peculiar to him, and by means of his interpreter^
pointed out the benefits they would derive from a
faithful adherence to their allegiance to the king
of Spain, and by acquiring a knowledge of the
^truths of the Christian religion. The general then
resolving to return to Guatemala, to preserve the
peace of that district, ordered a good fortress
to be built, in which he left 418 men, under the
command of Héctor de Chaves, and Aloneo del
Pulgar. From that period, the Zutugiles have re-
mained faithful subjects of the Spaniards, even
during the rebellion of the Quichés and the Ka-
chiqueles.
424
CHAP. XXXIX.
The Conquest of the Valley of Saeatepeques.
Although Sioacatn spootaoeously submitted
to AWarado, and swore allegiaoce to the Emperor
Charles the Fifth, all the places under his govern-
ment were not disposed to follow the example of
their inonarch ; several of theifu^ and particularly
those in the valley of Saeatepeques, not only re-
fused to yield to the Spaniards, but shook off the
authority of their natural sovereign, and declared
themselves free and independent. (Kachiquel
MS. fol. 5.) The audacity of these Indians did
not stop here, for they began to infect the lands
of those villages and towns that had been placed
under the Spanish authority, and carried off many
of the women and children that w^re employed in
looking after the milpas, or fields of maize, and
other plantations, and sacrificed the hearts of the
latter to their idols. Mortified by these vexa-
tions, the caciques of Xinaco, Sumpango, and
some other places, sent niessengers to theoffejnd-
ers, saying, that as they were now under the pro-
tection of men who were children of the sunj^for
so they called the Spaniards), if they received
any insults or farther injuries, they would com-
plain to their friends the children of the sun, who
killed and wounded their enemies with thunder ;
but if, on the other hand, they would cease from
hostilities, and be willing to obey the Spaniards,
the caciques would engage to obtain the friend-
ship of these children of the sun for them. This
wessage was so ill received by the independents,
425
that they put all the messengers to death, eifcept
one^ whom they sent back to tell the caciques,
that they might now request their new friends, the
children of the sun, to bring their tatoqdés, or
ambassadors, to life again ; that for themselves
they scorned to submit to an unknown people,
and would destroy all the villages of the caciques
before the allies, whom they so much relied upon,
could arrive to their assistance. They imme-
diately set about putting these threats in execu-
tion, by attacking with a powerful force the vil-
lages that had submitted ; the inhabitants quickly
flew to arms, and resolved to defend themselves to
the last extremity ; instantly sending off advice of
the war to Guatemala. These events took place
in the month of January, 1525, or, according to
the Indiau account, in the time of tapixque, or the
maize harvest; at this period Al varado was en-
gaged in the Atitlan war against the Pipiles ; but
the commandant who remained in Guatemala,
sent him intelligence of what had happened ; and
without waiting for orders, dispatched 1000 Gua-
temaltecans with 10 musketeers as their officers,
under the command of Antonio de Salazar, a cap-
tain of great experience and well known bravery,
to the assistance of their Indian friends.
These troops left Guatemala with the greatest
expedition^ and by forced marches reached the
scene of action, just when the contending Indians
had begun to skirmish. Notwithstanding the
arrival of this reinforcement, the Sacatapeques
continued firm, maintained the conflict with great
bravery, and although they lost many men, their
places were instantly filled by fresh combatants.
On the third day after hostilities had commenced.
426
the Spaniards received a very seasonable rein-
forcement of 10 musketeers, 20 cuirassiers, and
200 Tlascaltecan and Mexican Indians, sent by
Alvarado, who by this time had terminated his
campaign against Atitlan. The Sacatapeques
soon suffered so many defeats, that, numerous
and courageous as they were, both their valour
and their troops sensibly decreased, and they be-
gan to think of submitting. At this crisis, an old
Indian called Ohoboloc, a man of mean birth, but
clear understanding, was introduced to the ca-
ciques and principal leaders ; this man eitlier
from curiosity, or an inclination to observe the
n^ilitary movements, had ascended an eminence
whence he saw, and carefully noticed, the dif-
ferent manners in which the Indians and Spa-
niards fought; he therefore proposed to the chiefs,
that at dawn on the following day, they should
form their troops into squadrons of a 1000 men
each; that the first squadron should engage
for a short time, and then retire ; the post quitted
by the first, was to be taken up by the second,
and the action so kept up by each squadron in
succession ; the retiring body always forming in
the rear of the preceding one ; for he had observ-
ed that the Teules never attacked with their whole
force at once, but by divisions one after the other.
The Sacatapeques by adopting this plan, main-
tained the fight the whole of the fifth day, and the
Spaniards suffered considerably. Early on the
morning of the 6tb, the latter appeared in the field,
apparently much weakened, and in confusion;
the enemy observed this, and thinking themselves
secure of victory, immediately commenced an at-
tack, whitíh was avoided by a retreat towards^
427
sane broken ground ; the Indiane supposiog their
success complete, followed in disorder, and when
entangled in the defiles and tbiol^ets, were attack-
ed by a strong body placed in ambush, and press-
ed so closely, that their delusive hopes and their
courage vanished together, and they fled io the
greatest dismay^ leaving a great number of killed
and prisoners behind ; among the latter many
eaciques and principal leaders : all the villages in
the valley of Sacatepeques then surrendered to the
victors. Experience had taught Al varado to dis-
trust the Indians ; and thwefore in «very large
town a military force was stationed to keep it in
awe; in that of Sacatepeques, 10 Spaniards and
140 Tlascaltecans were left under the command
of 0iego de Alvarado.
CHAP. XL.
The Capture qfthe FortreBS of Mixco.
It has been already mentioned that Mixco, a
strong city belonging to the Pocoman Indians,
was situated on the eminence of an almost per-
pendicular rock that was impregnable, there being
but a narrow steep approach to it, admitting only
one man abreast ; so that a very small force at the
top might, by rolling down large stones, defend it
against a powerful body ; as a single file of men
would be exposed to inevitable destruction by
advancing up so confined and menacing a pass, if
a piece of the rock were put in motion against
it. The Spaniards had been accustomed to un-
dertake such arduous enterprises, that dangers
and diflSculties only served to stimulate their cou-
428
rage ; and as it ^was now well known that many
other nations, following the example of the Mix-
queños, had fortified themselves in similar posi-
tions ; Alvarado sent his brother Gonzalo with 2
companies of infantry and 1 of cuirassiers, com-
manded by Alonzo de Oxedo, Luis de Bivar, and
Hernando de Chaves, to besiege Mixco, until he
could take command of the operations in person.
On arriving before the place, it was carefully re-
connoitred by the oflScers, who convinced them-
selves that there was no other approach to it, than
the one just described ; and being somewhat in-
timidated by the losses they sustained from the
stones and arrows discharged upon them by the
enemy, they found themselves involved in difficul-
ties, that to them seemed insurmountable, when
Pedro de Alvarado arrived at the camp. This
experienced officer perceived at once the eminent
risks the army would be exposed to in prosecut-
ing the siege ; but in a conference with his officers,
they were unanimously of opinion that it would
be detrimental to the reputation of their arms^
were they to be unsuccessful in the enterprise they
had undertaken ; because it would induce other
nations to persevere in fortifying themselves in the
same manner; and even those who were already
subdued^ might, by such an example, be prompted
to rebel and intrench themselves in similar posi-
tions ; he resolved for these reasons to prosecute
the siege.
He determined to make an attack upon the
place without delay, and to facilitate his plan,
caused a report to be spread, that the intention
was to make an escalade at a point where there
was no path, and where the rock was not so lofty :
439
it was (^otijeétared that the enemy woald direct
their whole force to the point menaced, and leave
the approach by the narrow path undefended ;
the stratagem did not succeed, for the besieged
being very numerous, and not entirely unacquaint-^
ed with such feints, took care to guard both
points, from which they poured down great quan-
tities of stones and poisoned arrows that did
much injury to the assailants: Alvarado fearing a
total failure, ordered a retreat to his camp. In
this situation the Spaniards were attacked with
great fury by the Chignautecos, who were allies of
theMixqueños: (Xecul MS. of Juan Macario, fol.
70 the battle was long> and supported with great
desperation on both sides ; more than 200 of the
Chignautecos were killed ; and on the side of the
Spaniards, many of the Tlascaltecas, particularly
2 brave leaders of that nation, Juan Suchiat and
Gerónimo Carillo, and many Spanish soldiers
wounded. In this battle the bravery of Garcia de
Aguilar was very conspicuous, having in a retreat
of the division be belonged to, remained a little
behind his companions, he was attacked by up-
wards , of 400 Indians who surrounded hinj,
after 6ghting them a long time and being co-
vered with blood, he lost both his horse and his
arms ; the animal without the rider defended itself
by kicking and prancing against the Indians, who
endeavoured to seize it : Aguilar, on being dis-
mounted, drew his dagger, made great slaughter
with it among his enemies, and contrived to keep
them off until 6 horsemen came to his assistance
and liberated him, but not before he had received
several very dreadful wounds» The result of this
battle, with the extraordinary resistance of Agui-
430
kir, so dfa^ríted the CfaignaiiteGO»^ that they re*-
treated to their own territory. Three days afttí?
this victory» an envoy from the caciqties of Gh^*-
MHita arrived at the Spanish camp, with a present
of gold^ green* feathers, and white mantles, to pro^
pose terms of peace, stipulating that their sub-
mtssk^n should be kept secret uniü after the* cap*
ture of Mixco ; as a proof of the caciques' sin->
cmty, the messenger requested for them an inter**
view with the Ahao Tonal tiuh (Al varado), to com*
municate an important secret that would be of
the utmost service to the Spaniards. He was
received with many tokens of respect by the ge-
neral, who in return for the presents of the car
ciques, sent them some scarlet caps, beads, knives,
and other European articles. Three days elapsed
b^re the ambassador returned with the chiefs;
as€hignauta was 10 leagues from Mixco ;* on ar-
riving at Uie head-quarters^ after many salutations
on both sides, the caciques told Alvs^ado tfaatbe
could not capture the Mixquenos,. even though
be'should gain the top of the eminence; because
they had a» cave or subterranean passage by which
they might escape to the bank of the river, unless
a body of troops were stationed at the mouth of
thepassage to intercept them. This intelligence
was gladly received, and 40 men^ cross-bows^ and
cavalry, under the orders of Alonzo Lopez de
Loarca^ were sent to secure the spot pointed out
on the bank of the river.
The most difficult object still remained ; this
was to get into the town by the narrow patb^
which was in fact the only possible entmnce.
To perform this periloujs service the fbllo^ing
disposition was made; a man bearing a shidd to
431
proifct a eross-bow nis^n, was to advance aloog
tbe pass, followed closely by the marksman ;
then another sbield-bearer, supported in like
Biaoner; so on alternately, until the single file
t^Lched the top of the rock. Bernardino de Ar-
teaga,. who on: many occasions bad given signal
proofs of invincible valour, offered to lead the van
in this perilous ascent^ and under his guidance
the party entered upon the narrow path with an
activity and courage that were neither repressed
nor intimidated by th^ large stones and poisoned
arrows. that the enemy showered down upon them;
and in the advance, the cross-bow men and mus^
keteers made great havoc among the Indians; ia
this manner the Spaniard^ had proceeded a con*
siderable distance along the dangerous way, when,
arriving at a part where the road widened a little^
a l^i^e stone tumbled from the height above it»
struck Arteaga, and broke his 1^ : he was sup^
ported by Diego Lopez Villanueva, and the acci-
dent seemed to increase the ardour of the as*
sailants; for they pushed on in defiance of the
incessant discharges of arrows, pikes^ and stones^
fintil gaining a position which permitted them to
extend their front, and display their customary
skilj> they commenced an attack that the enemy
were unable lodg to resist ; they suffered great
slaughter from the fire-arms, which infused such
terror into their ranks; that they began to give
way. As soon as the Spaniards had gained the
top of the rocks, they were attacked by another
party of Indians which had been kept in reserve;
but as this body had had leisure to observe the
prowess of their assailants/they fought but feebly;
and after receiving a few discharges that killed
4á2
tianjr, tbe others fled in coofasion. Some trust-
ing to tfaefr swiftness^ escaped from the scene of
contest by the path which the Spaniards had as-
cended ; many fell over the rocks, and were
dashed to pieces^; and those who evaded that
danger were made prisoners by the guard left
at the camp. The enemy within the place at-
tempted to escape by the subterranean passage,
but numbers were taken before they reached the
entrance of it by a party of infantry that pursued
them ; those who got into it with their wives and
children, were suddenly attacked on arriving at
the bank of the river, by the infantry and cavalry
stationed there, under the command of Alonzo
Lopez de Loarca, and most of them made pri-
soners, among whom were some of the principal
caciques. (Quiche MS. of Francisco Garcia Calel
Teziimp^ fol. 7.) This action being terminated, the
Spaniards retired with their prisoners^ at first to
Cbignauta, and afterward to their bead-quarters^
Information of the victory was immediately sent
to Pedro de Alvarado then at Mixco, who pre-
pared without delay to join the army in the field ;
he, however, sent orders to set fire to tbe place,
that it might no longer serve as an asylum to \he
refractory natives: all the prisoners were col-
lected and settled on the spot where the present
village of Mixco stands, about 9 or 10 leaguea
distant from their former habitations.
y
433
CHAP.XLI.
OJ the serious and ahnost general Insurrection
that took place in 1526.
By exertions the most extraordinary, Pedro
de Alvarado completed the conquest of the 3
principal nations of the kingdom, that is to say,
the Quichés, the Kachiquels, and the Zútugiles,
in the year 1524. In the following year, he suc-
ceeded in subduing the populous nation of the
Pipiles, that extended along the coaist of the Pa»
cific, in reducing the large towns of Sacatepeques
and the formidable fortress of Mixco. This suc-
cessful chieftain thinking his labours at an end,
formed the resolution of returning to Spain, to
give an account to the Emperor Charles the Fifth
of his extraordinary conquests, and the immense
extent of territory that had been thereby added
to his dominions: he, therefore, took leave of the
cabildo of Guatemala on the 4th of October,
1525. Just at this period, he received Intelligence
that Fernando Cortes had arrived in the province
of Honduras, and it was necessary he should re-
pair thither to pay his respects to bis superior
captain-general. He did not, however, under-
take the journey until the month of February,
1526, for on the 30th of January he was present
at a council held in Guatemala. After that pe-
riod, he set out to have an interview with Cortes ;
but, on arriving at Choluteca, he was met by the
captains Luis Marin, Bernal Diaz del Castillo,
and some soldiers who had arrived with Cortes
at Honduras, but were now on their return to
Mexico, through the kingdom of Guatemaía; from
2 F
434
these officers he learned that the commander' in
chief (Cortes) had embarked at Truxillo, and
sailed for Mexico : in consequence of this report,
the whole party returned to Guatemala.
An extraordinary change now waited Al varado:
the countries that he had so recently passed
through as governor and captain-general, and
where he had received all the obedience and ho-
nours due to his exalted rank, he now on his re-
turn found in a state of open warfare ; the inha-
bitants opposing his passage as if he had been
an enemy; the provinces that had cost him 2
years of incalculable labour and difficulties to
subdue, were, in the short space of a few days,
thrown into a state of rebellion to his autho-
rity: this was not the case with 1 or 2 dis-
tricts only, but the flame had rapidly spread over
an extent of 139 leagues, from Ghaparrastique to
Olintepeque. The cause of this rebellion in the
districts of St. Miguel and St. Salvador is not
now known, but the reason is well ascertained, by
which Sequechul, king of the Quichés, and Sina-
cam, the Kachiquel monarch, were induced to
revolt against the Spaniards ; and their example
drew the inferior caciques of Sacatepeques, Pi-
nula, Petapa, and others, into the vortex of insur-
rection. While Pedro de Alvarado was absent
on his journey towards Honduras, it is generally
understood that he left his brother Gonzalo as
lieutenant-governor, (it was not his brother George,
as some writers have erroneously supposed, for
that officer was in Mexico at the time). Gonzalo
was covetous, and wishing to enrich himself in a
short time, inconsiderately demanded 200 ala-
linas, or children, which he sent to the different
435
wasbJng-places where gold was to be found, under
an obligation that each was to bring him daily
90 grains of gold ; as the children were only from
9 to 12 years of age, they frequently wasted the
time in sports natural to their period of life, and
failed to produce the stipulated quantity; in
such cases, Gonzalo compelled the leaders of the
parties of infants to make good the ^defíciency.
These exactions produced great discontents
among the Indians, which quickly spread to the
maseguales or plebeians, and as readily infected
the nobles : they threatened Gonzalo that they
would report his extortions to Tonalteul (the sun
of God, el sol de Dios), the name by which they
designated his brother Pedro : the menace pro-
ducing no relief, they represented the vexations
they endured to their king, Sinacam. This sove-
reign was already extremely dissatisfied tit the
conduct of the Spaniards ; for when he voluntarily
made terms of peace with theni, he considered he
was treating With them as friends, who would assist
him in defending his states against his enemies,
and in bringing his rebellious subjects to a proper
sense of their duties to him ; and that at least each
party would retain the suprejiie authority over his
respective people. But when he found that Pe-
dro de Alvarado deprived him of his dominions,
and assumed an independent power over both
himself and his subjects, he began to repent of the
facility with which he had admitted his oppress-
ors, although he dissembled his mortification for
sometime; no sooner did this opportunity present
itself, than he determined to shake off the yoke
that he had so incautiously imposed upon his
«country-
2 f2
436
Ta put this design in train, Sinacam sent am-
bassadors to the caciques of Petapa, Pínula, and
others, to request their aid ; he liberated Seque-
chul, king of Quiche, who had been detained
prisoner in Gruateroala since the year 1524 : the
latter also sent messengers to invite tlie chiefs of
Utatlan, and other places of his dominions, to
send troops with the utmost celerity, prepared
with all possible means for occupying Guatemala:
th^se troops were placed under the guidance of
the caciques^ who possessed the greatest autho-
rity among them, and the greatest reputation and
experience in the conduct of military operations.
The 2 kings with the Guatemaltecan Indians took
the field, and dividing their forces into 2 corps,
encamped, one in the valley of Alotenango,
under the orders of Sinacam ; and the other,
commanded by Sequechul, was stationed in the
valley of Panchoi. On these unexpected move-
ments taking place, the Spaniards of Guatemala,
abandoning for the present all care of the politi-
cal government, found it necessary to devote their
whole attention to arms and warlike preparations.
They raised new levies, and established various
commands ; Gonzalo de Alvarado was appointed
chief of the force destined for Olintepeque: he
quickly performed his march, and there pitched
his camp, which consisted of no more than 60
Spaniards, both horse and foot, and 400 Indians,
Mexicans, or Tlascaltecans, armed with pikes
and arrows. .Of the squadrons left to cover Gua-
temala, Hernando de Chaves commanded the
one stationed to the southward, in the valley of
Alotenango; and Gonzalo de Obalie directed
that which took a position to the northward, in
437
the valley of Pancboi. Chaves resolutely resisted
4 attacks made upon him by Sioacam» supported
by the Indians of Alotenango and Aguacatepeque.
Two attempts were made against Oballe by the
body of Indians under Sequechul, and it required
all his activity and military skill to support him-
self against the assailants, whose force he found
well organized, strongly intrenched, and covered
by a deep ditch extending along the front and one
flank of their position. The Spanish forces were
obliged to remain encamped during the months of
June^ July, and August^ suffering great incon-
venience from the violent heat and heavy rains.
Among the insurgent towns was Petapa, one of
the most celebrated of the district, both in the
time of its idolatry, and under the government of
the Spaniards. It was under the authority of a
cacique named Cazhaulan, (which translated
means " the faithful will come,") rather a pro-
phetic epithet, as in hk time the Christians came
to preach the gospel. This Cazhaulan, being an
independent prince, and sovereign of one of the
4 great districts, never paid tribute to the kings
of Utatlan, Kachiquel, or Achi : his daughters
married into the families of the other sovereigns ;
his male descendants long retained, in Petapa,
the distinction of caciques, and were held in high
estimation for their nobility and prowess. Caz-
haulan himself was a man of great endowments,
highly venerated for his piety, fidelity^ and good
government: on the arrival of the Spaniards at
Guatemala, he spontaneously submitted to the
authority of the king of Spain; but many of his
principal nobles took umbrage at this submission,
as it appeared to them an unworthy act to sub-
438
ject himself to a strange and onknowo race of
men, who, as some of them said» went on 4 feet^
(supposing the rider and his horse to be one ani*
mal), and were all Teules (or gods) ; who wonnded
and killed with thunder, and who wonld never
suffer him to retain the liberty that he had until
then enjoyed. This created a sanguinary civil war
among the Petapanecos, one party taking arms
in defence of their prince, and another against
him ; to the latter belonged the principal calpul
of the town, who retired to the adjacent moun-
tains. (Kachiquel MS. fol. 13.) In a few days
the revolters, trusting to the kindly disposition of
Cazhaulan, returned to their homes, and solicited
pardon for their past error. The lapse of a short
time proved this to be nothing more than a simu-
lated submission, and that the seeds of rebellion
were still lurking in their hearts; for they had
no sooner heard of the Kachiquel insurrection,
than they were in open revolt against their own
chief, as well as the Spaniards, and being sup-
ported by the cacique of Piaula, they gave abun-
dant employment to the latter ; for by their aid,
those of Jalpatagua were enabled to prolong the
war, and even when these were conquered, they
attacked Pedro de Alvarado on the plains of
Canales.
The same thing occurred with the natives of
Sacatepeques^ who at first refused submission to
the Spaniards : they were subdued in 1525, but
the next year again revolted, either at the instiga-
tion of Sinacam, or, according to the account of
some of their own countrymen, because one of
their papas, or priests of their idols, named Pa-
naguali, had persuaded them that their god Ca-
1
439 .
mandón had appeared to him, and was much en-
raged that his friendly Sacatepeques, distrusting
bis power and protection, had surrendered to the
Teules of Castile, who came for no other pur-
pose than to take from them their lands and
liberties; he exhorted them to take up arms
again> promising to assist, and give them the vic-
tory. Impelled Jby this advice of their god^ the
Sacatepeques assembled in force, and, with great
noͣieand howling, attacked the first guard of the
Spanish garrison with the fury of ravenous beasts.
The alarm was sounded, and a reinforcement ar-
rived to support the guard, which was thus ena-
bled to make its way through the enraged multi-
tude, with some loss on both sides ; 1 Spaniard
and 3 Tlascaltecans were made prisoners, the re^
mainder of the troop retreating in good order to
Guatemala.
CHAP. XLII.
Of the Reduction of the Insurgent Provinces
in 1526.
As soon as Alvarado obtained information that
Cortes had quitted Honduras for Mexico, he pre^
pared to return to Guatemala, having his escort
strengthened by the soldiers who accompanied
Luis Marin. This was a most seasonable rein-
forcement, for he found the provinces of Chapar-
ristique, or St. Miguel, in a state of warfare; and,
in his encounters with the insurgents, 1 Spa-
nish soldier, called Nicuesa, was killed, and 3
others wounded. In the province of Cuscatlan
he had several obstinate engagements with the
440
natives, but no details of them have been pre-
served; and,- although Bernal Diaz del Castillo
was present, he only mentions, in his History,
chap* 193, that the provinces were in a state of
insurrection.
Having overcome these impediments, the army
advanced by hasty marches towards Guatemala ;
but, on arriving at the confines of Jalpatagua, its
passage was intercepted by numerous strong bo-
dies of Indian archers, with whom a smart con-
test began, but it was not of long duration; for
almost as soon as the infantry were brought into
action, the different squadrons of the enemy dis-
persed, and fled to the mountains. The expul-
sion of the Indians from a rock fortress was a
matter of greater difficulty, as it was defended
by several thousand combatants, who, maintain-
ing a position naturally very strong, were enabled
to cut off the communication with Guatemala.
The rock of Jalpatagua stands on an eminence,
about 9 miles distant from the village of that
name, commanding the main road from the capi-
tal to the eastern provinces of the kingdom, and
there was no detour by which this route could be
avoided. Before the Spaniards entered the defile,
they were attacked by several bodies of Indians^
who, after fighting resolutely for a long time, re-
treated to the rock for protection. This enor-
mous nia^s forms an ascent of several furlongs^
is broken into rugged precipices, and surrounded
by a deep ravine, in the manner of a fosse; as
the different points of it were covered with In-
dian archers, it occupied the assailants 3 days of
continual fighting before they could gain posses-
sion of it, and then not without considerable loss.
441
Hernando de Alyarado, Pedro de Baldivieso,
Juan Alvarez^ Fernando de Espinoza^ and Gon-
zalo Gomez^ all soldiers of great valour and repu-
tation, were killed in the different attacks. The
difficulties of Alvarado and his army did not ter-
minate with this victory; for, in advancing into
the plains of Canales, they met a formidable body
pf Indians from Petapa, Pinula, Guaymango,
Jumai, and other places. Another battle took
place, and success for a long timé seemed doubt-
ful, until the cacique Cazhaulan, and such of the
Petapanecos as remained faithful to him, came
up to assist the Spaniards ; he attacked the rear
of the enemy, who, . finding themselves hardly
pressed by both parties, commenced a retreat to
the . mountains and adjacent defiles. Alvarado
contipued his march, and, approaching Guate-
mala, on descending a height called the Ridge of
Las Cañas, there happened so smart a shock of
an earthquake, that the soldiers were unable to
keep their feet. (Bernal Diaz, cap. 189.) Arriv-
ing in the valley of Pancboi, they found another
body of Indians, under Sequechul, king of Qui-
, che, strongly posted within intrenchments sur-
rounded by a ditch, and who appeared prepared
to stop his progress. The army of Alvarado, ac-
customed to difficulties, did not hesitate a mo*
mept to attack their enemies ; they passed the
ditch, penetrated the intrenchments without. los-
ing a man, and^ after dispersing the Indians, pur-
sued their route to Guatemala, where they arrived
that evening. Alvarado sent to Sinacam and
Sequechul, offering them terms of peace, but,
after waiting 10 days without receiving an an-
swer to his overtures, he set put for Mexico. The
442
two kings decamped from the valleys of Pancboi
and Alotenango^ and retired to the mountains of
Quezaltenango, with all tlieir troops and warlike
stores.
On arriving in Guatemala, Alvarado immedi*
ately dispatched Juan Perez Dardon, Pedro Ama-
lin, and Francisco Lopez, with some troops to
support his faithful ally the cacique Cazhaulan,
and by this assistance the populous town of Pe-
tapa was soon obliged to submit to the authority
of the king of Spain, and again placed under the
government of its lawful cacique. This squadron^
had scarcely returned from the expedition, when,
on the last day of August, Diego de Alvarado,
and the garrison of Sacatepeques, arrived at Gua-
témela, with intelligence of an insurrection hav-
ing broken out among the natives of that, and
those of the contiguous places in concert with
them. At this time, Pedro de Alvarado was bu-
sily occupied in preparing for his journey to Mex*
ico, for which purpose a cabildo was. held on the
26th of August, 1526, when he nominated ordi-
nary alcaldes and regidors; Pedro Portocarrero,
Jbeing one of the former, was also invested with
the authority of lieutenant-governor during the
absence of the captain-general. At the same time,
the operations for reducing the kings Sinacam
and Sequechul to obedience, were confided to
him. As the garrison of Sacatepeques had ar-
rived before his departure with an account of the
insurrection, he dispatched on ihe following day,
the 1st of September, Portocarrero with the fol-
lowing officers, Juan Perez Dardon, Bartolomé
Becerra, Gaspar de Polanco, Gonzalo de Oballe,
Hernando de Chaves, Gomez de UUoa, and An-
443
ton ele Morales, with 60 horse, 80 musketeers,
150 Tlascaltecansy 400 Mexicans, and 100 of the
Sacatepeque Indians who had accompanied the
Spanish garrison. This force, amounting altoge^
ther to 790 men, was divided into 8 companies,
each commanded by one of the just mentioned
captains. On the 7th day after the insurrection
had broken out, the army arrived in the revolted
territory, and took up a favourable position in a
small yalley. The commander immediately sent
the cavalry, under Hernando de Chaves, to ex-
plore the enemy's country, and reconnoitre the
state and positions of the rebels. In a short time
this officer returned with 2 prisoners, belonging
to the little place of Ucuhil (of which there is
not the smallest vestige remaining), who reported
that their village remained at peace, and that
even in the town of Sacatepeques there was a
large portion of the inhabitants in favour of the
Spaniards ; but, being too ^eak to resist the op-
posite party, which 2 days before had treated
them with great violence, they had withdrawn
themselves from the town, and sought security id
the defiles and hovels of the maize plantations;
They also inf($rmed him, that the Spaniard and
the 3 Tlascaltecans who had been made prison*
ers, were sacrificed to the idol Camanelon.
This last piece of intelligence greatly exaspe-^
rated Portocarrero, who immediately marched to
Ucuhil, from which place he sent a message to
the friendly Sacatepeques, who were wandering
about the plantations, and was soon afterward
joined by them to the number of about 800, un-
der the command of Huehuexuc, one of their
principal leaders : this accession increased his
.444
feree to 1590 men ; the allies were divided into
4 companies, and placed under the direction of
J nan Rezino» Sancho de Baraona, Juan de Ver-
astigui, and Andres Lazo* The general now ad-
vanced his camp within a league of the revolted
town, and sent, at different times, 3 messen-
gers, offering terms for an amicable adjustment of
all matters in dispute; but the insurgents were
obstinate, and disdainfully rejected the proposals;
they even attempted to seize the bearers of them,
who escaped only by the swiftness of their horses.
The army again removed for the purpose of gain-
ing a hill that commanded the plain; but the
march was scarcely commenced, when it was at-
tacked by a body of 2000 Indians ; after some
mancBUvres were performed to gain the advan-
tage of ground, the enemy were so hemmed in,
that they could not avoid a battle, and after. a
conflict of about half an hour, were forced
lo save themselves by a precipitate .flight : the
Spaniards were thus at liberty to pursue their
march, and they took possession of the: hill with-
out farther opposition. On the following day,
about 3000 Indians approached near enough to
discharge their poisoned arrows, by which the
Spaniards suffered considerable loss ; but 2 dis-
charges of artillery killed so many of the assail-
ants, that those uninjured, thought proper to re-
treat, but in good order, and still defending them-
selves with their arrows : the Spaniards eagerly
pursuing this advantage, hastily descended into
the plain, where they were again attacked by the
retreating party in front, and in the rear, by the
body that bad been defeated the preceding day.
These unexpected assaults forced them to move
445
with celerity in order to gain a wider part of
the plain ; but in the hottest, of the battle, they
found themselves entangled on some uneven
ground, covered with low brushwood, that so
much impeded their movements as to throw then!k
into disorder, and they were defeated. The Spa-
niards retired toa position between 2 steep rocks,
where they considered themselves sufficiently se-
cure, to look after and dress their wounded, in
which duty the general himself was one of the
most active persons. The next day he resumed
his march for Sacatepeques, and on approaching
the place, discovered a large body of the enemy,
armed with clubs, pikes, and sharpened stakes ;
great numbers with bows and arrows, and others
with slings ; they were covered with skins of ani-
mals, and their heads protected with helmets of
feathers: they exultingly advanced to meet the
Spaniards, setting up a most tremendous noise of
cries and howling». Portocarrero perceiving the
advance of the enemy, quickly made his dis-
positions to receive them. He placed the infantry
in the centré, the cavalry to support each wing,
and the artillery in front; in this manner he
wmted the attack : the enemy, rushing on with
impetuosity, were received with a steady fire
from the field-^pieces and small arms, by which
many ^ere killed and more wounded ; they con-
tinued the contest forjóme time, alternately re-
treating and attacking, which occasioned great
loss on both sides : in their last retreat the enemy
suffered so much from the fire-^arms, that they
precipitately quitted the field, and shut them-
selves up in the town. They were pursued in
446
tbdr flight by 5 companies, who succeeded io
capturing 8 chiefs, besides Panaguali, and 2
other priests : the general, considering these as
sufficient hostages to secure the completion of
his design, retired to his quarters at Ucnhil,
where he remained 3 days to take care of his
wounded. On mustering his force, he found the
loss amounted to 37 killed ; viz. 1 Spaniard,
named Yillafuerte, 9 Tlascaltecas, and 27 Sa*
catepeques; among whom was their leader,
Huehuexuc. After 3 days stay in Ucuhil,
Portocarrero sent one of his prisoners to the
town, with a message, importing, that on the fol-
lowing day he would come with his army to
settle the terms of peace; and intimating, at the
same time, that the inhabitants might remain in
the utmost security, as it was not his intention to
do the smallest injury to any one : the messenger
returned about sun-set on the same day, report-
ing, that the town was perfectly quiet, and the
Castilaguinacs (or Spaniards) were anxiously ex-
pected, in order that the chiefs might renew their
declarations of obedience, the infraction of which
had occasioned them such severe losses. On the
following day, the Spanish army left their en-
campment, and quietly advanced to Sacate*
peques, where it was received by the principal
leaders of the Indians, and admitted into the
town. The troops were dispersed into conve-
nient quarters; the principal square being sur*
rounded and well guarded, the general assem-
bled the chiefs and some of the people, and in
their presence ordered Panaguali, the principal
priest and promoter of the insurrection, to* be
447
strangled. Thus ter^iinated the war of Sacate-
peques, and the final subjection of that district
to the authority of the Spaniards.
CHAP. XLIII.
The Capture of Sinacam and SeqiiechuL
This event is related both by Fuentes and Vas^
quez, but circumstantially differing so much in
each account, that the 2 authors appear to be
narrating 2 distinct historical facts. Vasquez
relates the incident more in detail than the other,
and asserts, that he drew his information from
manuscripts and traditions of the Indians, which
he had the means of ascertaining to be correct:
but his account is clogged with many particulars
not at all reconcilable with the fact, as it is re-
corded in the books of the cabildo of Guatemala.
Fuentes, a writer in general very diffuse on other
subjects, is particularly concise on this. After
having minutely detailed the battles fought in re-
conquering the fortress of Japaltagua, the seigni-
ory of Petapa, and the valley of Sacatepeques ;
the insurrection of these two kings; their encamp-
ing in the valleys of Panchoi and Alotenango ; and
subsequently intrenching themselves on the vol-
cano of Quezaltenango , h^ quits the subject,
and does not return to it again, until the 6th
chapter, book 16th, of his first volume, where he
mentions it incidentally in describing a certain
ceremony of the Indians, allusive to this battle,
which they call the festival of the volcano.*
* This festival, celebrated by the Indians, on any extraordi-
nary occasion, is the representation of a battle. When it is to
448
Fuentes, for reasons already assigned, has ge-
nerally been consulted in the coarse of this work ;
be performed» timely notice is given to the different Indian vil-
lages, wbpse inhabitants are entitled to take a part in it ; an
artificial mountain is raised in tbe great square of tbe city of
Guatemala, and covered with turf, flowers, and branches of
trees, in which they place monkeys, guacamayas, chocoyos,
squirrels, and other small animals: in the body of the moun-
tain several caves ^ are made, in which dantas, stags, wild
boars, and pizotes are confined ; on the summit of it a small
house is erected, which is called the king's house* About 3
o'clock, p.m., on the day of the festival, 2 squadrons of ca-
valry march into the square, and take post on the eastern
side ; the western side b occupied by 2 companies of iufóntry :
next arrive several troops of Indians, altogether about 1000,
naked, with the exception of the tnastates, painted and deco-
rated with feathers of guacamayas, and other birds, represent-
ing tbe state of the natives in their barbarism ; some armed
with bows and blunt arrows, others with clubs and shields :
these are succeeded by other Indians, playing various musical
instruments, peculiar to their nations; different dances are
then performed with great regularity, forming altogether a very
agreeable entertainment ; greatly heightened by the variety and
costliness of the dresses, and 4he brilliancy of the plumages with
which the dancers are adorned . Lastly, The governor of Joco-
tenango makes his appearance, attended by a numerous suite of
the principal persons of his town, all richly dressed, with orna-
mental chains about their necks, and hats with large plumes.
The governor is the representative of King Sinacam, and is
thereiore borne in a gilded chair, on men's shoulders ; he is
richly decorated with quezal feathers, and other magnificent
ornaments, according to the practice of the native monarcbs ;
in one hand he has a fan of feathers, in the other he holds a
sceptre, and wears a crown on his head. The governor of Joco-
tenango has been, for time immemorial, the representative of
Sinacam ; and it is esteemed a high honour: for in 1680, when
the cathedral was opened with a grand ceremony, the represen-
tation of this festival formed part of it,' and the governor of
Itzapa offered 500 dollars to the governor of Jocotenango for
the privilege of becoming Sinacam's substitute, but could not
obtain the honour. On arriving at the mountain, the governor
is carried to the top, and' seated in the king's house. Two com-
panies of Tlascaltecan Indians, all descendants from those who
assisted Portocarrero in his expedition, now march into the
square ; these are dressed in the Spanish costume, armed with
swords, muskets, and pikes, and commanded by the governor
449
therefore, for the purpose of keeping up the coti¿
^hexioD with other parts that have been taken
frona his narrative, he will be preferred ; and for
another reason^ because it is more in unison with
the bopks of the cabildo ; however, both ac-
counts shall be laid before the reader.
Fuetites (chap. 3, lib. 9, par. 1,) relates the in-
surrection of these chiefs, iri the manner already
given ; they had stationed their troops in the val-
leys near the city of Guatemala ; when Pedro de
Alvarado returned from Choi u teca, they refused
his proposals for peace, and withdrew to the
mountain of Quezaltenango, where with a great
number of their principal nobles, and a large body
of warriors, they fortified themselves very strongly.
Alvarado was well aware how necessary his pre-
sence in this country was, at so particular a crisjs;
but finding also that his personal character de-
manded an exculpation from the very serious
charges which his rivals and enemies had preferred
against him, to the emperor Charles the Fifth, he
deterlnined to embark for Spain, leaving Portocar-
of the old city. On arriving at the mountain, they begin the
siege of the fortress; they surround it, discharge their fire-
arms, and attempt to escalade in various parts ; the besieged, in
defence of their p^isition, discharge their arrows with the usual
war-cries of the Indians, repulse the attack of the Tiascaltecans,
and, in fact, gx> through the minutiae of a battle, much to the
satisfaction and amusement of the spectators; after this skir-
mishing has coÁtifiued, sometime, the final assault is given by the '
Tiascaltecans, the defenders abandon Sinacam, who is made
prisoner, and bou^d with a chain by the governor and alcaldes
of Álmolóñgay whip remove him from the mountain, convey him
to the palace, and deliver him prisoner to the governor ; the ce-
remony then concludes, and the people return to their respec-
tive villages, in the same order as they arrived. For some tim^^
pa^t this festival has not. been celeWated, the omission has
dpubtless^ been with a view to relieve the Indians from the ex-
orbitant expenses to which it subjected them.
2g
450
rero as lieutenant-governor during his dbseaoet
This commander on his return from the conquest
of Sacatepeques, was informed of the hostilities
committed by the rebels against those villages that
still adhered to their allegiance, and considering
that unless he could check them, the insurrection
vrould daily gain greater strength, and consider^
ably increase the difficulties of suppressing it,
he assembled a council of war, and they resolved
upon effecting the capture of the insurgent king*s
Sinacam and Sequechul.
Before setting out for Quezaltenango, be ap^
pointed Hernán Carillo his associate in the office
of ordinary alcalde, and also constituted him civil
and military governor during his absence. He
prepared for the expedition in the best manner
that circumstances would permit ; his force con-
sisted of 215 Spanish musketeers and cross-
bowmen, 108 cavalry, 120Tlascaltecans, and 230
Mexicans, with 4 pieces of artillery, under the
direction of Diego de Usagre, amounting alto-
gether to 674 men. Hernando de Chaves and
Luis Dubois (a gentleman of the king's bed-
chamber) were appointed to command the horse ;
to 7 companies of Spaniards and Indians, Bar-
tolomé Becerra, Alonzo de Loarca, Gaspar de
Polanco, Gomez de Ulloa, Sancho de Baraona,
Anton de Morales, and Antonio de Salazar, were
nominated captains. Thus arranged, the army
left Guatemala, and directed its march towards
Quezaltenango; they had scarcely advanced 3
leagues before they were engaged with the Indians
of Tiangues or Chimaltenango. That his pro-
gress might not be impeded by this incident, he
left 120 infantry under the captains Pedro Amalin,
451
and Franeieco de Orduña to manage the dispute
with these Indians, and with the remainder con*
tinned his route to Quezaltenango. He had the
satisfaction of finding the numerous population of
this place faithful to the Spaniards, and gbtaiajng
from it a reinforcement of 2000 Indian arqhers,
advanced towards the frontiers of the rebel ter-
ritories. Several bodies of Indians, skirmished
yrith bkn on the road, but, were unable to offer
an^y «erioua opposition- On arriving in a littler
valley, a force of more than 10,000 Indian archers
surprised him, more unprepared than was con-
sistent with military discipline, when traversing
an enemy's country; and would have routed him,
had not his presence of mind, and military talents
enabled him to manoeuvre for a position suitable
to the nature of the ground, under cover of the
qavalry which advanced to receive the enemy's
attack. The action lasted for more than 3 hours,
and was at last' decided by an impetuous charge
of the infantry, in which vast numbers of the
enemy, and Rubam Pocotn their general were
slain;, they then retired to the bottom of the
mountain upon which Sinacam and Sequechnl
had taken a strong position ; Portocarrero now
strengthened by more Indians from Quezalte-
nango, and by the troops he had detached at
Cbimaltenango, b^an to ascend the acclivity ;
his troops forming a triangular figure, by which
means he circumvented his opponents, and pressed
them into a narrower space as he ascended. By,
these movements the enemy were greatly confused,,
and being rendered desperate at seeing themselves
sjill closer pressed, attacked their assailants in.
large troops on different parts of their lines, with
2 G 2
45á ^
arrows, pikes, and large stones; but finding i%"
sistance useless, some retreated to the top of the
mountain, others made their escape by some of
the passes, and great numbers surrendered them^
selves prisoners. Sinacam^ and Sequechul were
taken and remained in confinement for 15 years,
until Pedro de Alvarado embarked for the Spice
Islands.
The account of Vasquez (toitn. 1, lib. 1, cap. 14,
fol. 67.) is as follows. The caciques Ahpotzotzil
king of the Kachiquels,* and hi& brother Ahpox^
ahil, king of Solóla had submitted, and become
vassals of the king of Spain ; living in great har-
mony with Pedro de Alvarado. During the ab-
sence of the latter, bis brother Gonzalo, was left
governor, and he wishing to enrich himself in a
short time, imposed upon the inhabitants of Pati-
naniit, or Tecpanguatemala, an extraordinary tri-
bute ; which was, that 400 boys, and as many
girls, should deliver to him daily a reed, as thick:
as their little fingers^ filled with grains of gold,
under the penalty of being detained as slaves in
case of default. For some days they complied
with this mandate; but being afterward unable
to keep up the contribution, the avaricious go-
vernor went to the town, and treated the Indians
with so much harshness as to threaten them with
death in case of noncompliance. The Indians
have a siory that in this time of their distresis,
the devil appeared to those who were so oppressed,
and exhorted them to revolt and shake oíF tke
Spanish yoke, Ahpotzotzil, aS: the Indians say^,.
^ This cacique revolted io 1526, and was for a long time de-
tained prisoner in Guatemala; in the books of .tli« cabildo be
is called Sidacain*
453
incited by the devil; or what is more probable,
exasperated by the vexatious conduct of Gonzalo;
determined to relinquish the friendship of the
Spaniards, and endeavour, by force of arms tO:
recover his liberty and former authority. With
this design, he convoked the .caciques of Tecpana-
titlan, Ruyaalxot, Comalppa, Xilo^peque, Saca-
tepeques, Sumpango, Chimaltenango, and others,
and by their assistance raised an army of more
than 30,000 combatants. One part of this force
was destined to intercept Pedro de Alvarado, in
the mountains of Petapa ; and thetnain body wa^
to fall upon the Spaniards and Indians in Almo-.
longa ; the former were but few, many having acr
companied the general to Honduras, and others
had retired to their houses in the country; the
attempt being made as suddenly as unexpect^ly,
many were killed, more wounded, and such asi
escaped uninjured fled to Olintepeque,*
The Kachiquel caciques, in order to secure a
retreat in case of being attacked by the Spaniards,
fortified themselves upon some high mountains,
about 10 leagues to the eastward of Tecpangua-f
temala> called by the Indians Nimaehe ; the d^
clivity of these mountains is so precipitous a« to
make it necessary for a person wishing to descend,
to let himself down by a rope made fast to the
trees ; in which manner Vasquez says the priest,
from wJiom he received his information, had desr
cerided. On this eminence the kingé had built a
■ • .
* This author seems to infer that the city was deserted; but
as cabildos aré recorded as having taken place in the city oí
St. Jago on the 28d and 26th of August, and particularly on
the first mentioned day it was announced by the public crier,
that those persons who wished to settle there, might apply for
ground t it cannot be said the place was abandoned.
454
fortress, and a place of residence ; with stone and
lime, and took every imaginable precaution for
their security ; through the ravine that serves as
a fosse to the fort, runs a large river affording
always a plentiful supply of fish ; on its banks,
and in the adjacent savannahs, there were many
maize fields, so that they could experience no
difficulty in maintaining themselves in their posi-
tion several years. At the latter end of August,
1526, Pedro de Alvarado entered this district,
with a considerable number of soldiers, of those
who had been under his own command, and those
under Luis Marin, who had joined him at Cho-
luteca ; he soon perceived that the Guatemaltecan
Indians were in arúas, and prepared to resist his
passage; he however chose to avoid a contest
with them, and pushed forward to Olintepeque.
At this place he was joined by the troops under
Juan de Leon Ordeña, who had been stationed in
the district ever since 1524, and those also who
had been driven from Guatemala by the Kaehi-
quels ; he reviewed his force, and found that the
number of soldiers barely amounted to 200, but
most of these were brave and experienced veterans.
The Indians of Almolonga were likewise well dis-
ciplined, and the Quichés had offered to assist
and supply them with provisions ; therefore, after
manufacturing a sufficient quantity of gunpowder,
with sulphur drawn from the volcano of Taja-
mulco, and leaving in Quezal teuango a sufficient
force to guard against contingencies, he marched
onwards to the conquest of Guatemala. Alvarado
encamped on one of the plains in front of the
heights of Tzaktzikinel, and made several demon-
strations of attack, with the hopes of inducing the
455
Kacbiquels to submit without a battle ; be also
sent twice to the 2 kings, oflering them terms of
peace ; but these were contemptuously rejected
and the messengers ill-treated. After this the Spa*
niards were repeatedly attacked by the rebels,
and a series of battles and skirmishes ensued for
several days, in the l£^t of which they succeeded
in penetrating into the Patinamit capital; this was
an arduous, as well as dangerous exploit, for it
could only be approached by a narrow causeway
formed of timber : success did not, however, se-
cure the victory, as the caciques retired with their
soldiers to the recesses of the lofty mountains of
Nimaché. In these places they were strongly
posted, and all the declivities of the heights thickly
covered with well-armed defenders. The Spaniards
advanced to the base of the mountains, and pitched
their camp in full view of the enemy, who con*
tinually detied them by shouts, and contemptuous
taunts, frequently detaching large masses of rock,^
which rolling down the steeps with dreadful vio-
lence and noise, placed the besiegers in no small
degree of danger. Alvarado several times offered
the besieged favourable terms of peace, but they
were always refused indignantly ; 2 months had
now elapsed since he began the siege, and there
being, as yet no prospect of surrender; an assault
was determined upon, previous to which the ge-
neral once more offered Ahpotzotzil terms; he
however continued obstinate, tore the letter, and
ordered the messenger to be put to death, which
would have been speedily done, had he not im-
mediately given a preconcerted signal for the at-
tack. The Spaniards instantly advanced, and
clambering op the steep precipices with incre-
456
dible activity, were fortúnate enough to -seize
Abpotzotzil in his fortress ; a party went in pur-
suit of Abpoxahil, and found him also, before he
could make his escape; the 2 monarchs thus
made prisoners, secured the victory, and com-
pleted the final subjugation of the Kachiquel
nation. This exploit was achieved on St. Cecilia's
day, November 22, 1526, and has been comme-
morated by selecting that day for the celebration
of several of the most important events in the
annals of the city of Guatemala.
CHAP. XLIV.
The Conquest of the Mam Indians.
About the middle of the year, 1625, when Pe-
dro de Alvarado returned from the conquest of
the eastern and southern provinces, the King Se-
quechul, with many other princes of his family,
came to welcome him, bringing a large quantity
of gold and emeralds as a present. (Xecul MS.
title Apopqueham, fol. 15.) In the conversations
he held with the general, he endeavoured to
exculpate his father, Chignauivcelut, from the
charge of treachery that had been made against
him, and to throw the odium of the rebellion upon
the Mams : he said, that the insurrection in 1524,
was. not occasioned so much by his father, as had
been generally reported, as it was by Caibilbalam,
cacique of the Mams, who had instigated him to
burn all the Spaniards who were within the walls
of the city of Utatlan, '' And if you desire,"
said be, " to chastise him for his crime, I will be
your guide, and by the death of this criminal
457
you will obtain immense treasures, and an exten«
sive province." This was a welcome proposal to
Alvarado, as he was very desirous of extending
his conquests : to which might be added the no-
velty of the enterprise, as he was until then, en-
tirety ignorant of such a province, and such a
people, in the kingdom; for when he traversed
the province, of Soconusco, he left this district
much to the northward. He immediately assem-
bled bis principal officers, and mentioned Seque-
cbuFs proposal ; he also demonstrated the impor-
tant advantages that would result from having
possession of that province, as the numerous vil-
UgQS which it contained, would insure to them in-
dividually, an abundant spoil ; increase the pos-
sessions of the crown ; and what was still more
interesting, it would, greatly extend the Christian
faith, and spread the knowledge of the Supreme
Being among a multitude of barbarians. iThe
proposition was unanimously approved by them,
and arrangements were speedily made for the ex-
pedition : Gonzalo de Al varado was appointed
to the chief command: 80 Spanish infantry, under
the captains Antonio de Salazar, and Francisco
de Arevalo ; 40 cavalry, under Aloqzo Gomez
de Loarca ; 2000 TIascaltecan, Mexican, Uzma-
tecan, Cholutecan, Quezaltecan, and Kachiquel
Indians, under the command of George de Acu-
ña, Pedro de Arragon, Bernardino de Oviedo,
and Juan de Verastigui; 300 Indian pioneers,
with hatchets and spades, and a sufficient number
of Indians for transporting the provisions and
baggage, formed the whole strength of the expe-
dition. In the beginning of July, 1525, Gonzalo
de Alvarado, one of the most accomplished sol-
458
diers of bis time, marched with this detachcneot
from Guatemala, towards the large town of To-
tonicapao ; which being near the confines of the
Mam territory, and-in a country producing maize
in abundance, was judged to be a convenient
place for establishing his magazines of provisions.
Nearly 8 days were occupied in crossing the chain
of mountains that runs between Totonicapan and
the Rio Honda, from their great elevation and as-
perities, continued rains, and rising of the rivers.
He was detained 2 days before he conld pai^s the
river, which, though small at other seasons, was
then so much swollen by torrents from the moun-
tains, as not to be fordable. (Quiche MS. fol. 9.
On reaching the plain, where the village of Maza-
tenango is now situated, he was impeded by a
broad swamp, on the opposite side of which there
was a strong rampart, constructed of large tim-
bers, with a solid terreplein^ formed of clay and
straw, and upon it an immense number of the
Mam Indians was drawn up in order of battle:
these, by their shouts and gestures of defiance,
provoked the Spaniards to a combat, in the hopes
of drawing them into a swamp, where they would
undoubtedly have suffered great loss ; but fortu-
nately, the Quezaltecan and Sequechul guides
warned Alvarado of the danger, and conducted
the troops, by a circuit, towards the north, by
which they approached the rampart ; and. on
coming within reach of the enemy's missiles,
were received by a shower of arrows, stones, and
pikes, so that they were constrained to commence
action with the Indians without halting, and to
maintain it for a long time. Alvarado animated
his soldiers, by representing to them how greatly
459
the service of God, and their national honour,
wel*e interested on the present occasion, and sub-
sequently gave orders to attack the rampart: the
Spaniards met with a very obstinate resistance
from those who defended it ; but Gomez de Lo-
area, making a vigorous charge against it with the
cavalry, brought part of the work to the ground ;
and opened a breach sufficiently wide to admit of
the infantry, as well as the horses getting within
the enemy's defences. They still maintained their
ground with great courage; but being unable
long to resist the weight of the cavalry, and fire-
arms of the infantry, were compelled to surren-
der, after sustaining great loss both in killed and
wounded. On obtaining this victory, a sufficient
force was posted in the village of Mazatenango,
and the army continued its march.
The troops had advanced but a short distance
beyond the rampart, when the sound of the In-
dians' warlike music attracted their attention, and
they soon discovered a body of about 5000 armed
men approaching : Alvarado rapidly pushed on
to take advantage of more open ground for at-
tacking these well-arranged squadrons of Mala-
catan Indians, and the cavalry making a charge
upon the vanguard of archers, immediately dis-
persed them : they at first attempted to resist the
horses, but as they had never before fought
against animals, except in the chace, they were
greatly astonished at their strength; and not
knowing where to shelter themselves from the
lances of the riders, ran under the horses' bellies,
and many of them were kicked and trampled to
death. Although the ar^^hers were unable to re-
sist the cavalry, a battalion armed with pikes
460
9tood their ground and fought bravely, until the
dispersed archers rallied and discharged another
shower of arrows, stones» and pikes ; as the fury
of the battle increased, the obstinacy and intre-
pidity of the Indians seemed to rise in proportion
to the severity of their losses ; they rushed on to
the very points of the lances and swords, and con-
tinued their discharges of arrows and stones with
the greatest resolution ; the Spaniards found it no
easy task to sustain the combat, exhausted as they
were and severely contused by the stones* An-
tonio de Salazar perceiving the fatigue of his sol-
diers, and the ineffective manner in which they
used their weapons, endeavoured to encourage
them by his own example, and addressed them
thus, ** Where is your former valour, brave Cas-
tillans ? Accustomed as you have been to conquer
in the arduous and bloody battles of Mexico and
Utatlan, why does your courage now iail ? If you
then fought to acquire fame, you must now fight
to preserve it( and defend your lives ; call to mind
your former victories, and do not now suffer them
to be tarnished with defeat, or yourselves to be.
slain like victims by these barbarian infidels.'*
Such was the courage infused into the soldiers by
this reminiscence of their passed exploits, that
they renewed the battle with all their wonted
ardour, and piercing the enemy's ranks, made
dreadful slaughter among them. The brave In-,
dians maintained the contest with unabated cou-
rage; Alvarado had observed an Indian chief,
distinguished by a large plume and other insignia,
who seemed to animate and infuse spirits into his
soldiers, ^nd direct all their movements; this
leader he resolved to encounter personally,, and:
461
on the first favourable opportunity set spurs to
his horse, and urging at full speed against theca-^
cique (Canilacab), pierced hitn with his lance,
and laid him dead on the field. By this loss the
Indians were dispirited and thrown into confu-
sion ; they turned their backs and fied, leaving a
great number of slain behind them : the Spaniards
followed them as far as the village of Malacatan;
At this place Alvarado received an embassy f om
the chiefs, bringing a present of gold, to sue for
peace and friendship. (Quiche MS. fol. 10.) He
received the miserable remnant of the people of
.Malacatan with kindness, and leaving a suitable
garrison in the place, advanced to the large town
of Gueguetenango.
This capital of the Mams was found entirely
deserted. There were neither inhabitants, pro-
visions, nor furniture in the houses, many of
which were in ruins. The army halted here for
some time, the commander sending out separate
troops of cavalry to scour the country in differ-
ent directions: one of these detachments, com-
manded by Gaspar Alemán, fell in with 300 In-
dian archers, who, on hearing the noise of the
horses, put themselves into a posture of defence,
and gallantly defended themselves a long time:
but several having been killed, and liiany others
wounded, they gave up the contest, and endeia-
voured to escape by flight. Alemán was greatly
exasperated by a wound he had received in the
face, followed them, and made 3 prisoners, one of
whom was the chief, called Sahquiab. This per-
son, when he was brought to Alvarado, informed
him that he was one of the leaders in Caibilbálam^s
army, and that that sovereign, on hearing of the
462 .
arrival of the white stragoers bad retíred, with
all bis court, to the strong fortress of Socoleo^
where he had a very numerous garrison, with plenty
of provisions, and was well supplied with all kind
of warlike necessaries. Alvarado, in obedience
to the Emperor's (Charles V.) commands^ sent a
message to this monarch, by the prisoner, Sab*
quiab, whom he instructed to say, that he wished
to establish peace and perpetual friendship with
the Indians, and the object of coming into their
territory» was nothing more than to comtnunicate
to them a knowledge of the true God, of his holy
laws, and religion. Sahquiab departed with this
message, but neither he, nor some others who
had been sent with him, returned in the course of
the 3 following days with an answer : tbe ge-
neral, however, did not, on this account, desist
from repeating his offers of peace ; he sent other
messengers, of the Utatecan nation, under the
guidance of a prisoner, but Caibilbalan refusing
to give them an audience, they were driven away
with great violence. The conduct of the Indian
prince excited the anger of Alvarado, and he is-
sued orders for the army to march immediately
for Socoleo. This was one of the most celebrated
fortresses that the Indians possessed; it was
built by the cacique Lahuhquieh, to defend his
possessions against tbe incursions of the Quiche
monarchs. Fuentes, who wrote his history about
the year 1695, says, at that period a great part of
this extraordinary place was standing, and he de-
scribes it with .great precision, after having p^-^
sonally examined it. The situation of it v^as*.
to the eastward of Gueguetenango, on a plain of
about 12 miles in circumference; it was seated
463 •
close to the river Socoleo» from which it derives
its Dame. The approach, as usual to such places,
was by only one entrance, and that so narrow as
scarcely to perniit a horseman to pass it; from
the' entrance, there ran on the right hand a pa^
rapet, raised on the berm of the fosse, extending
along Dearly the whole of that side ; several ves-
tiges of the counterscarp and curtain of the walls
still remain, besides parts of other works, the use
of which cannot now be easily discovered ; in a
court-yard there stood some large columns, upon
the capitals of which were placed quantities of
pine-wood, that being set on fire, gave light at
uight to the surrounding neighbourhood. The
citadel, or lofty cavalier, of this great fortification
was^in the form of a square graduated pyramid^
rising 12 or 14 yards from the base to the plat-
form on the* top, which was sufficient to admit of
10 soldiers standing on each side ; the next step
would accommodate a greater number^ and the
dimensions proportionably increased to the last,
or 28th step. The steps were intersected in un-
equal portions by parapets and curtains^ rendjer-^
ing the ascent to the top so extremely difficult»
that Fuentes says, he attempted several times to-
reach the platform, but was unable to perform
the task, until his Indian interpreter acted as his
guide, and conducted him to the summit. The
ruins of several buildings were then in existence ;
they appeared^ to have been intended as quarters
for the soldiers; were extremely well arranged,
and distributed w'ith due regard to proportion;
between each 3 i9ir 4 of these buildings there was a
square court-yard paved with slabs^ made of stiiF
clay, lime, and sand ; every part of the fortress was
464
constructed of hewn stone, in pieces of great size,
as one which had been displaced measured 3
yards in length, by 1 in breadth. Before the
army reached this place, it was met by a body of
6000 Mam, Cuiico, and Istaguacan Indians, who,
on approaching within range of their weapons»
discharged a shower of arrows and stones, which
did great injury to the Indian allies, and many of
the Spaniards received severe contusions from the
stones, against which their quilted cotton jackets
were not a sufficient defence, although they pro-
tected the wearers from injury by the arrows.
While the infantry were hotly engaged, the ca-
valry charged the left wing of the enemy, and
penetrated it in several places ; the foot and the
Indians still pressing forward, caused much havoc
in the ranks of their opponents, who having had
upwards of 300 killed, and nearly ail the rest
wounded, sounded a retreat ; at this crisis they
were reinforced by 2000 men, who had sallied
from the fortress to thdr assistance; but these
bad no sooner appeared on the field of battle,
than they were charged and totally routed by the
victorious Spaniards. In this battle, the Spa-
niards obtained a very large booty in ornaments
of gold and other valuables, at the cost of 40 of
their allies killed, 8 Spaniards, and 3 horses
wounded: Alvarado himself was among the
latter. As the enemy had retreated into the for-
tress, the Spanish general considered that the pos-
session of the whole province must depend upon
the surrender of that post. On communicating
this opinion to his principal officers, they agreed
unanimously that the siege oiit ought to be vigo-
rouBly prosecuted : in consequence of this reso-
465
lution, the araiy was broken into divisions^ and
took up positions so as to forpD a cordon around
the place. Two days passed, in wiiich the be-
siegers only stood on the defensive against the
missiles of the besieged (MS. of Alvarado, in
possession of Don Nicholas de Vides y Alvarado,
one of his descendants). On the third day, as
Diego Lopez de Villanueva, with 10 horsemen,
was reconnoitring the country, he perceived a
thick smoke on the opposite side of the river ;
this induced him to pass it, which he effected
with some difficulty, and was fortunate enough
to surprise a magazine of provisions belonging
to Caibilbalam, guarded by 300 bowmen, who
were endeavouring to convey them into the for-
tress; it proved a valuably prize, affording the
means of supplying the army for several days.
As the place was circumvallated by a deep ra-
vine, there was no way by which the walls could
be approached. Alvarado therefore endeavoured
to form a road over that part of the ditch where
he conceived it would be practicable to enter by
escalade: he employed a great number of In-
dians, with pickaxes and shovels, and began to
form a path of convenient breadth for his pur-
pose, the Spaniards taking part in the work to
animate the allies by their example : the besieged,
perceiving that if this work should be accom^
plished, it must inevitably ensure their ruin, en-
deavoured to impede its progress by all the means
in their power ; and the space between the walls
and the ditch was immediately covered with
slingers and others, armed with missiles, but aa
these could not reach the labourers, they received
much greater injury from the musketry, thaii they
2h
4(56
were íible to inflict. In full expectation of beini^'
able to reduce the fortress, the Spaniards carried
on their work with energy, until they disco-
vered a force of 8000 Serran Indians directing^
their march towards Socoleo ; these were not en-
cumbered with clothes or adorned with plumes,
but painted and equipped like the wild Indians.
In this emergency, Alvarado left his unfinished
work before the fortress, with 400 Indians and 10
chosen Spaniards, under Antonio de Salazar, to
defend it, and forming the remainder of his troops
into one body, advanced to meet the eneiny, who
were coming in search of him. The Serrans com-
menced the attack with great valonr, and conti-
nued the battle with such extraordinary fury,
that victory would most probably have crowned
their efforts, if the Spaniards had not been pro-
tected by their quilted cotton jackets, which
broke the force of the arrows, besides having
the advantage of fire-arms, and being assisted by
their horses and lances, which enabled them to
penetrate the enemy's ranks, throw their troops
into disorder, and finally to compel them to re-
treat, leaving the field of battle covered with dead
bodies. They would have been still more se-
verely harassed in this battle, had not Salazar
been fortunate enough to drive back the besieged,
who attempted to make 2 sallies for the purpose
of assisting their friends. After the decision
of this encounter, the Spaniards were left at li-
berty fo resume the siege of Socoleo. Caibilba-
1am began already to feel the want of men, from
the severe losses he had sustained, and he also
began to suffer from a scarcity of provisions ; in
this dilemma he attempted to make his escape,
467
bjr passing, under cover of the night, along the
inner edge of the ditch, escorted by some' of hjs
family and principal officers; but unfortunately
he was observed by a guard under Juan de Pe-
reda^ going^ the rounds; the watch-word was de-
manded, but no reply being made, an arrow was
discharged from a cross-bow, by which Caibilba-
1am was wounded in the arm ; on feeling himself
hurt, the cacique returned into the place by the
way he had quitted it; 1 of the officers who
accompanied him was made prisoner. Pereda
was lauch mortified at finding how narrowly the
monarch himself had escaped falling into hi^
hands. The month of October was now arrived^
and the army having been 4 months in the field
during a tempestuous winter, began to sufier
much from the severity of the cold ; the swampy
nature of the ground occasioned fevers ; the health
of the troops was much impaired ; and, as Alva-
rado had reason to fear another attack from the
Indians, while his men were enfeebled by sick-
ness, he sent those who were already disabled
under a strong escort to Gueguetenango ; and in
order to hasten his attack upon the place, desisted
from forming the road, and employed hands to
make a sufficient number of scaling ladders, Jarge
enough for 3 men to ascend together, to at-
tempt ap escalade in several places at the same
time.
Caibilbalam was now reduced to the greatest
extremity of distress; his* provisions were nearly
exhausted, and even what remained was spoiled ;
the Spaniards he knew had cleared the country ;
every attempt he made to relieve his wants was
always intercepted; his people began to die in
2h 2
1
468
great numbers from absolute famine, after having
éatten the skins with which their shields were co-
vered^ and even some of the carcasses of the dead.
Viewing all these miseries, the unhappy cacique
resolved to redeem the lives of the survivors even
at the price of his own liberty; .he held con-
ferences with his officers and principal counsel-
lors, who agreed with him that there was no
other relief for their misfortunes than submission:
he determined to request a suspension of arms ;
which was readily granted, and he sent an Indian
interpreter to say he was desirous of seeing the
captain of the white men to adjust the condi-
tions of a peace. A place midway between the
gate of the fortress and the quarters of the ca-
valry was pitched upon for the interview ; Alva-
rado left the camp attended by Gomez de Loarca,
Antonio de Salazar, Francisco de Arevalo, and
12 other officers ; at the sound of the Spanish
trumpets the gates of the fortress were thrown
open, and the cacique, attended by the prinéipal
personages of his courts advanced to the ap-^
pointed spot ; as the 2 parties drew near each
other, AI varado dismounted, and hastened to-
wards Caibilbalam with open arms ; ^^ Wishing,''
as he says in his MS. " to treat him in the begin-
ning of our conference as a friend, I did every
thing on my part to shew my friendship : as soon
as he saw that I received him with kindness,
tears started into his eyes; his person bespoke
his elevated rank, and he appeared to be about
40 years of age." After exchanging civilities, the
general blamed the cacique for having refused
the offers of peace that had been made to him,
and then changed his discourse to the subject of
469
religion. Caibílbalam said he should be glad to
be instructed in the religion of the Christian^, and
was very willing to obey the king of Spain and
all his subjects, on condition of being permitted
to live in the fortress with those who had assisted
him in the defence of it, because he apprehended
injuries from the other Indians who were his ene-
mies. To this Alvarado replied, that he and al
his people must of necessity quit it without
arms^ and surrender themselves ; that the place
must be occupied by himself and one half of his
soldiers, for the purpose of taking possession of
it, and the whole province in behalf of the king
of Spain; and until this was done he could not
remove his camp. In this manner the fortress
was delivered up, the defence of which Alvarado
asserts had cost the Indians 1800 lives. After
possession had been taken, the general ordered
the country and all the places that had been sub-
ject to Caibilbalam to be examined ; he directed
the stone gate that secured the entrance to the
town to be broken, the ditch surrounding it to be
levelled, and leaving a strong garrison in Guegue*
tenango^ under the command of Gonzalo de Solis,
set out on his return to Guatemala.
GHAP. XLV.
The Capture of the Fortress ofUspantán.
San Miguel Uspantan is now an incon-
siderable village with a very trifling population,
situated on the borders of the provinces of Toto-
nicapan and Yerapaz ; but at the period of the
conquest it was a town of great importance, the
470
capital of a powerful cacique, and the chief place
of the territory of Sacapulas. Five years had
elapsed after the Spaniards entered the kingdom
of Guatemala before they thought of subjugating
the Indians of Uspántán; these were fierce moun-
taineers, who continually harassed them in their
different expeditions. In the year 1529, it was
determined by the cabildo (lib. 1, old fol. 72,) to
undertake the reduction of this district, and Gas-
par de Arias, that year ordinary alcalde of Gua-
temala, was appointed to command the expedi-
tion ; the force assigned to him for that purpose
consisted of 60 Spanish infantry, and 300 well-
disciplined Indians. The motive for such an under-
taking originated in the fears of the members of
the cabildo, who judged it imprudent to allow a
range of mountains, in which there were many
Tillages inhabited by a racé of fierce and warlike
Indians, to remain unsubdued, particularly as
they were incessantly exciting the Quichés, who
were already subjugated, to revolt. Arias had
consumed more than 6 months in his operations,
which be carried on through a tempestuous winter,
and had achieved the conquest of several strong
places occupied by a numerous population,
and extremely valuable from the fertility of the
territory belonging to them, when he at last found
himself under the walls of Uspántán in the month
of September, 1529. ' At this time he received in-
telligence that the inspector Orduña had dismissed
him from the office of alcalde, and appointed an-
other person to it (lib. 1, fol. 10Í9). Indignant at
this proceeding, Arias, who was peculiarly jealous
of his reputation and honour, resigned the com-
mand to Pedro de Olmos, an officer whom he
471
judged competept to so important a command;
having invested bim with the requisite powers^
and delivered the uecessary instructions, he set
out for Guatemala to defend his own rights and
maintain his character ; this was a hasty measure
which lost him all that he had previou^y ac-
quired by his arms, and exposed him to affronts
still greater than what he had already received^
Pedro de Olmos, either from inexperience, or
from an obstinacy sometimes peculiar to naen un-
expectedly invested with authority, deterniined^ in
opposition to the opinions and advice of bit^ of-
ficers, ;tO; attack the town of Uspantáp, although
he knew it to be strongly fortified and" well gar-
risoned; and was also aware of an ambutuh of
2000 men, who, at the moment of his moving to
the assault, fell upon his rear, and made great
havoc among the Indians, wounding also many
of the Spaniards, among whom was Olmos him-
self; To; render this affair still more di^strous,
many of the Indian allies were made prisoners, and
sacrificed by those of Uspantán, who (without pre-
viously killing them) tore out their hearts, which
were presented as án offering to the idol Esbalan-
quen. Terrified by this act ofr cruelty, the In-
dians abandoned the camp, taking the road to
Guatemala; and although Juan de L^on Car-
doña, the governor of Quiche, met them and
stopped their flight, it rendered but little service
to the Spaniards, who, laden with their baggage
and remaining provisions, had cut their way
through several bodies of Indians, and were in
full retreat towards Guatemala. On passing Chi-
chicastenango their progress was impeded by
3000 Uspantán warriors; a furious battle ensued,
. 472
tbe Spaniards were obliged to abandon their pro-
visions and baggage, and save themselves by a
speedy retreat : after a march of great fatigue and
hardship they reached Utatlan almost famished,
and suffering much from fevers and dysentery.
As soon as Orduña heard of the disastrous ter-
mination of the expedition, he endeavoured to re-
pair the misfortune, but this he could not readily
effect ; for as the members of government were
divided into political parties, and the major part
of them exasperated against him, on account -of
his conduct to Arias, he was unable to levy the
necessary forces. The inspector could easily per-
ceive he was viewed in an unfavourable light by
the nobility, and not more respected by the com*
mou people; and being conscientiously aware
that the failure of the enterprise against Uspantán
had been mainly brought about by his proceed-
ings, he was greatly embarrassed as to the choice
of fature measures ; contriving at length to bring
over to his party the treasurer, Francisco de
Castellanos, a man of excellent character and
great bravery, he communicated to him an in-
tention of once more attempting the conquest of
Uspantán ; this person he appointed to the com-
mand of the expedition, giving out at the same
time that be would accompany it in person, with
the view of stimulating the people to enlist for the
service; the plan did not succeed to his expecta-
tion, for not more than 40 Spanish infantry and 32
horsemen joined his standard^ and these with 400
Tlascaltecan and Mexican Indians, commanded
by 8 Spaniards, departed for Uspantán. On ar-
riving at Chichicastinango, thedetachment halted,
and Orduna sent forward messengers to Uspantán,
473
who, after encountering many difficulties and
some dangers, arrived at the place, and commu^
nicated their business to the principal Indians,
who, without hesitation, rejected the proposals of
peace, and put the emissaries to death. When
this act of cruelty was known to the Spaniards,
they determined upon a war of extermination, or
unconditional surrender, and Castellanos imme-
diately pushed on with the greater part of the
troops, leaving Orduña and a strong escort in
Chichicastenango, from which place he intended
to transmit his orders, and send forward the neces
sary succours ; but falling sick soon afterward^
he returned to Guatemala.
The detachment directed its march to the town
of Nebah, by a difficult route through thick woods,
and over rugged mountains; on reaching the river
of Sacapulas, then very deep and rapid, they were
forced to march along its banks more than half a
league before they could find a part sufficiently
narrow to cross ; this they effected by con-
structing a bridge of strong timbers, and gaining
the opposite shore, began to ascend a height;
upon the top of which was posted a body of from
4 to 5000 mountain Indians of Nebah, and other
towns upon the range of Verapaz. (Quiche MS.
fol. 3.) The advanced party of this bo<ly was
immediately attacked by the cavalry, and driven
in with some loss; the whole then retreated a
considerable distance^ and doubled a.projecting
point of the mountain, where they made a stand
to receive their assailants : at this place an obsti-
nate battle was fought, which terminated by the
Indians being forced to abandon the post. On
arriving at the town of Nebah, the Spaniards
474
found it entirely circamvallated by a deep ravine;
as its defenders saw them advance, they all press-
ed to the entrance of the town, in order to oppose
their assailants at that point, and left the other
parts undefended, as they trusted to the depth
and precipitous nature of the ravine for protec-
tion : the Indian allies taking advantage of this
neglect, descended into the ravine^ and clambering
up on the other side with great. agility, by the
assistance of the trees and underwood, set the
town on fire in several places; in the interval the
Spaniards having crossed the ravine, soon made
themselves masters of the place, and took several
of the principal leaders prisoners : on the follow-
ing day the inhabitants of Nebah were branded
as slaves, and the news of their disasters occa-
sioned the immediate surrender of Chahul.
The people of Uspantán, however, remained
resolute; and as they Had 10,000 warriors for the
defence of the place, besides the auxiliary troops
from Verapaz, Cunen, Colzal, and the territory
of Sacapulas, amounting to as many more, they
sometimes made sorties to harass their opponents,
and then shut themselves up again within the in-
trenchments, in hopes of tiring the patience of the
Spaniards by delay; and when they thought
them weakened and exhausted by so long a cam-
paign, came boldly out to attack. To resist this
numerous army, the general divided the infan-
try into 2 companies, and stationed the cavalry
in the centre : at the moment of attack the horse
kept a position in front; the 2 companies quickly
turned each flank of the enemy, and placed them
between 2 fires; the battle was neither long nor
doubtful ; as the Indians could not escape the
475
eflTect of the fire-arms, they were qatckly broken
and routed with dreddfol slaughter; great Dum--
bers belonging to different towns and villages were
made prisoners, and detained as hostages^ for the
surrender of the places to which they respectively
belonged, and which speedily followed.- This
memorable victory was gained at the latter end of
December, 1530, all the prisoners were branded
and kept as slaves. — (Fuentes, torn. 2, lib. 8, cap.
6 and 7.)
CHAP. XLVl.
. Description of th£ Valley of OtLatemalué
The celebrated valley of Guatemala, known
also by the name of Pasuya, is divided into 9 dis-
tricts, also called valleys; they containTS vil-
lages, 2 towns, and the city of Guatemala. The
Indian inhabitants of these valleys are very indus-
trious, and furnish the capital with every neces-
sary of life, and many of its luxuries ; either from
the produce of their own lands, or obtained by
them from other districts ; in the sale of these ar-
ticles they carry on an extensive commexoe, en-
joying all the advantages arising from mercantile
industry. The Ladinos are in general agricul-
turists, some raise wheat, others maize : a few are
artisans, and others carriers. The first oí these
valleys is that properly called the valley of Gua-
temala; comprehending the whole of the plain
on which Old Guatemala stands, and all the
mountains that surround it; the city is nearly
^n the centre of the plain, encompassed by 11
suburbs, and these are environed by no less than
476
31 villages, the most distant of which is not 2
leagues from the city; some of them are on the
plain, others on the declivities of the mountains. On
the east there are, Santa Ines, Santa Ana, Santa
Isabel, St. Cristoval, Upper and Lower; St. Juan
del Obispo, on the south-east; Santa Catalina
Bobadilla, St. Gaspar, St. Lucas, St. Miguel, and
Almolonga on the • south ; St. Miguel Milpa
Dueñas, Santa Catarina, St. Andres, St. Antonio
Aguas Calientes, St. Lorenzo, and St. Jago, on
the south-west ; St. Andres Dean, and St. Bar-
tolomé on the west; St. Dionisio Pastores, and
St. Luis de las Carretas on the north-east ; Jo.
cotenango, Utateca, and St. Felipe^ on the north ;
St. Tomas, St. Mateo, St. Miguel^ St. Bartolomé
Milpas-altas^ Santa Lucia, and la Magdalena on
the north-east. This valley is surrounded by the
others, having those of Chimaltenango and Xilote-
peque, on the north ; that of Petapa on the east
ttnd south ; and Alotenango on the west. The in-
habitants of the city derive many advantages from
these numerous places ; besides the supply of
every kind of provisions, they draw plenty of
hands for their different works and manufactories.
If a person is in want of bricklayers, he is sure to
find them at locotenango, Santa Ana, and St.
Gaspar ; masons at St. Cristoval the Lower ; gar-
deners at St. Pedro de las Huertas; bakers at
Santa Ana; and butchers at Santa Isabel. The
inhabitants of Almolonga supply the city with
fruit of all kinds, either the growth of their own
gardens, or procured from other villages towards
the mountains, or the sea-shore; Almolongo, and
Upper St. Cristoval, furnish all kinds of flowers ;
St. Gaspar and Almolonga^ used to supply the
477
city with pulque or maguey wine,* until the go-
vernor Andres de las Navas,. prohibited the traffic
under pain of excommunication. The people of
St. Pedro de las Huertas, send cauliflowers^ cab-
bages, onions, and every other description of gar-
den vegetables. Wood, coals, and similar articles
of domestic necessity, are brought from the other
villages.
The present inhabitants are indebted to the
original conquerors for this succession of villages;
* The maguey is one of the most useful and valuable trees that
the American soil produces ; it is a strong thorny bush, and
forms an excellent enclosure for gardens ; it extends about 6
yards in circumference, and is formed of strong stems about a
yard long, 4 or 5 inches thick towards the ground, tapering to
the top, which terminates in a sharp thorny point almost as hard
as steel ; from the centre of the bush rises a large head of a
conical shape, formed of several stems: when thb head has ar-
rived at its full perfection, the stem is cut off near the foot; and
the heart of the standing part hollowed into the form of a cup;
the cavity, sometimes nearly a quarter of a yard in diameter, is
every morning for some time, found ñill of pulque. This liquor
possesses various qualities, and produces different effects ; when
taken from the cavity it is sweet and of a purgative quali^ ;
the second day it is kss sweet ; on the third day it grows acid,
and is then drank as air agreeable beverage ; it grows more and
more acid each day, and on arriving at a certain degree acquires
an intoxicating quality ; in its different degrees of acidity it is
an excellent remedy m various complaints. The maguey wine
may be made into excellent vinegar, and by distillation affords
a superior sort of brandy ; the stems are reduced to threads
from which a species of linen for clothing is made ; and from
the same substance a very durable cordage for shipping, and
even cables are manufactured, in all respects superior to
those made of hemp. . From the stems, the Indians anciently
fabricated a sort of paper, and Fuentes asserts that he saw 7
petitions presented to the cabildo, all written upon this paper.
The Indians use the thorns instead of pins, and cover their huts
with the branches ; from the stems a food called mazcal is
made, which some people use from preference, and others me^
dicinally, as.it is gently purgative. If the stems be burned
while green, and the sap expressed upon any wound, it will
cure it with great celerity.
478
as- they were all desirous of foriBing an^tablish-
ment upon the lots that fell to them, on a di^isioD
of the lands in the valley. It appears from the
records of the cabildo, that at the time the city
was founded, or soon after, this distribution was
made; but in the cabildo held on the 18th of
April, 1528, it was determined to equalize it, be-
cause some of the inhabitants possessed large por-
tions^ while others had none at all ; for the sake
of regularity, the whole valley was divided into
lots, called Cahellerias and Peonerías ; the former
1000 paces long, and 600 broad, the latter half
that quantity. To a horse soldier a caballería was
given, and a foot soldier obtained a peonería ; but
due regard was paid to the persons, and the nature
of their services in increasing or diminishing this
portion. These lots were laid out by the original
possessors, some as maize fields, others as gardens,
and for various agricultural labours, in the produce
of which they carried on a considerable traffic. At
this period there were great numbers of the unre-
claimed natives wanderíng about in the forests,
and on the mountains, without any kind of sub-
jection or government, who were very detrimental
to those who had been already converted. The
Spaniards, desirous of applying a remedy to
this evil, began to devise means of collecting
them together, and establishing them in small
villages ; this design was still farther promoted
by various edicts from the king, particularly
Ode dated 10th of June, 1540, which especially
ordered that all methods should be tried to
induce the Indians to live in societies, and form
villages ; to accomplish more effectually the im-
portant object of civilizing and instructing tiieoL»
479
As the wild Indians disregarded all the friendly
offers that were made, to them, and shewed but
little inclination to listen to the preaching of the
missionaries, the governor gave permission to hnpt
them out of their retreats; in consequence the
officers each taking 10 or 12 soldiers, sallied
forth on the darkest nights, conducted by expert
guides to an Indian hovel, where they frequently
seized 6, 8, or 10 Indians whom they brought
home and placed on their maize plantations, and
other works, under the superintendance of careful
persons; these excursions were repeated until
'60, 80, 200, 300, or eveii greater numbers, were
got together and formed into a village, on which
was- usually bestowed the name of the saint of the
proprietor's peculiar devotion, with the addition
of the surname of his family. Thus Luis de Bivar
established that called St. Gaspar Bivar ; Ignacio
de Bobadilla, Santa Catarina Bobadilla ; Juab de
Carmona, St. Bartolomé Garmona; Diego Monroy,
St Lorenzo Monroy ; Alonzo de Zamora, esta-
blished the village of Santiago Zamora, at a place
where he used to wash the soil to find gold;
Sancho Baraona, Santa Gatarina Baraono ; Juan
de Escobar, St. Miguel Escobar ; Bartolomé Be-
cerra, that of St. Bartolomé Becerra; Fracisco
Monterroso, Santa Lucia Monterroso Gascon de
Guzman ; St. Juan Gazcon (not Padre Juan Gaz-
con as Remesal says), the Padre Juan Grodinez,
that of Santa Isabel Godinez ; and Gabriel Cabrera,
that of St. Lucas Cabrera.* Several others are
designated by the dignity or office held by their
* The village of St. Lucas Cabrera is also called St. Lucas
Ychauzuquit, a word iu the Pipil language, signifying " the
house of mud," it derives this appellative from some wells at the
480
original founders, as St. Juan del Obispo, settled
by the bishop Francisco de Marroquin ; St, An-
dres Dean, founded by Juan Alonso, dean of the
cathedral; and St. Pedro Tesorero, established
by the treasurer Pedro de Becerra. Some of the
villages of this valley have a different origin from
those already mentioned, as Almolonga, which
was settled by the Mexican, Tlascaltecan, and
Cholutecan Indians, who accompanied Alvarado
in his conquests, and afterward domiciliated
themselves near Tzacualpa, when the Spaniards
founded the city of Guatemala, and remained in
that position after the city itself was dismantled.
These Indians having served with great bravery
and fidelity in the conquest of the kingdom, the
king of. Spain issued an order on the 20th of July,
]5325 exempting them from the obligations of all
farther personal service. They have now 2 com-
panies of militia, the commandants and officers
of which are chosen from the principal men of
their respective nations. The village of San-
tiago Utateca, now united to Jocotenango> was
a form belonging to Pedro de Alvarado, as ap-
pears from a clause in his will (Remesal, lib. 4,
cap. 7, no. 4, fol. 180); it is said he assembled
the chiefs of the Indian villages, which were
fais feoffs, and requested that a certain number of
families might be sent from each, to be settled on -
the farm ; by the clause alluded to he declared
them free, and bequeathed to them the lands which
they occupied ; as the original settlers came from
Utatlan, the place received the name of Utateca.
place, in which if any kind of linen be laid for 3 or 4 days, it
will be dyed a most beautiful black, and the colour so durable
that it cannot be discharged.
481
After the destruction of the first city of Guateoiaía
in 1541, the Spaniards removed into the ralley of
Panchoi, and the Kacfaiquel Indians who were
settled at Tzacualpa, conceived it necessary td
change their place of residence in imitation of
them ; the governors of the city did not object to
thi$. removal, and granted a spot of ground that
had been a mining establishment belonging to
Pedro deAl varado, where^ they built the village
of Jocotenango, they were afterward joined by
the people of Utátlan; but the 2 nations always
kept themselves di^inct from each other. Alva-
rado formed 3 other establishments, one called
San Miguel Milpa Dueñas, from being built at a
place where; be had ordered a portion of land to
be cultivatedi and sown with mai^ for the benefit
of the widows of bis soldiers^ and it was peopled
by the Indiana who worked on the lands.'* San
Diop^ia Pastores is said to have received its name
from the inhabitants having been eonployed in at-
tending Alvarado's flocks; and St.* Luis de las
Ci^rretas was 430 called because the inhabitants
were chiefly cartwrights, and had charge of all
the carriage kept by the city for public use.
2. The valley of Chimaltenango, is bounded on
the south by that of Guatemala^ on the west by
the province of Solóla, on the east by the valley
' of Mixco, and on the north-east by that of Xilo-
tepeque ; as the principal places in the valley of
Pasuya have been already described in the former
part of this work, under the heads of Chimaltenango
and Sacatepeques, nothing more will be required
here, than to mention the different boundaries of
n WHj^ i% a general term given in Guatemala to land oul-
tivated for grain.
2 I
482
the districts that form the great valley of Guate-
mala.
3. The valley of Xilotepeque hais that of Chi-
roaltenango on the west, Sacatepeques od the
east, Mixco on the south-east, and Guatemala
on the south-west
4. Thevalley of Sacatepeques terminates on the
west át Xilotepeque, on the south at Mixco and
Las Vacas, and on the north and east by the pro-
vince of Chiquimula.
6. The valley of Mixco has Sacatepeques and
Xilotepeque on the north ; Guatemala and Pe-
tapa on the west ; and Las Vacas on the south
and east.
6. The valley of Las Vacas is bounded on the
north by the province of Chiquimula; on the
west by Mixco and Petapa; on the south by
Petapa ; and on the east by Canales.
7. The valley of Canales abuts on Las Vacas
to the west ; Petapa to the south ; and on the
province of Chiquimula to the north-east
8. The valley of Meisas de Petapa joins Gaa-
témala on the west, Las Vacas on the east, Mixco
on the north, and the province of Escuintta on
the south.
9. The valley of Alotenango is confined on the
east by Guatemala, on the north by Chimalte-
nango, on tbe west and south by the province of
Escuintla. . *
These 9 valleys compose the celebrated valley of
Pasuya, or Guatemala, which is divided into 2 al-
caldías may prs, i;¿2:. Chimaltenango, and Sacatepe-
ques; the first comprises tbe 3 valleys of Chimalte^
nango, Xilotepeque, and Alotenango; and tbe lat-
ter the other 6. Within this circuit there were
483
forttierly no less than 73 vijlages; but the present
state of it is in some respects different; it now con-
tains 3 towns, Old Guatemala, Petápa, and Zar-
gossa : some of the old villages have been aban-
doned, as Carmona, St. Andres Dean, St- Barto-
lomé Becerra, and St. Lucas Cabrera, for example ;
many others have been rebuilt in the vicinity of
New Guatemala, as Jocotenango Almolonga, St.
Pedro, St. Gaspar, Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe.
CHAP.XLVII.
Of some Remarkable Objects, Sfc. in the Five
Middle Provinces.
The historian Herrera (tr. 3, dec. 4, fol. 221,)
relates a circumstance of a very singular nature:
he says, there is in the province of Chiapa a
spring, which regularly flows during 3 years,
and is then dry for a similar period, and thus al-
ternately. The existence of this natural wonder,
from being related by an author who wrote in a
distant country, did not generally obtain belief,
but the author of the present work has been as-
sured, by a person upon whose veracity he can
rely, that there is no cause to doubt the fact,
as he had had ocular demonstration of it ; the
spring is situated on the side of a mountain, about
half a league distant from Ciudad Real : the ri-
vulet, which has its origin at this fountain, is
called Yeixhihuiat, a Mexican word, implying
^* three years' water." At the expiration of the
term of 3 years, the fountain drys up, and the
waters burst forth at a distance of á leagues, near
the road of Teopisca ; the natives of that village
give this periodical spring the name of Ohx-avil-
2 I 2
484
ha, Mjhiqh means, in the Tzendal language, the
same as the Mexican name» or ^* three years' water.'!
After this spring has flowed for 3 years» it disap*
pears, and the water rises again at the former
place.
Fuentes (tom. 2, lib. 8, cap. 15,) gives another
instance of a similar fountain near Chiantla, which
is distinguished by an additional feature of sin-
gularity ; it flows, and is dry for 3 years alter-
nately, but the waters appear and disappear in-
variably on the eve of St. Michael, the 29th of
September. This writer declares, that he had
in hijs possession docuinents written by Di^o
de Rivas, other religieux of the order of La
Merced, and several curates of unimpeachable
character, attesting the fact which he relates*
With a view to ascertain the correctness of this
account, and whether the phenomenon yet ex-
isted, the present writer obtained the favour of a
reference on the subject, to a clergyman resident
in the province, who, in .reply, declared, t]|iat he
had examined several old men of the village,
all of whom assured him, with very little discre-i
pancy in their narratives, that in a hollow be^
tween 2 mountains, about 3 leagues from Chi--
antla, there is a rivulet which begins to flow
on Michaelmas-day, and continues for 3 years,
when it stops on the same day, and remains dry
for 3 years ; and on this acicount the place is
called St. Aliguel.
Fuentes also mentions another rivulet in a
meadow to the northward of Ghiantla, called Hi-
guero ; the water begins to flow 20 days before
the periodical rains cease; and it be(x>mes com-
pletely dry 20 days before the rains begin. The
485
isfetnae author relates some other natural pheno-
mena which he had observed in Totonicapan, dur-
ing the period he was corregidor of tbát pi-ovince;
he saySy that as he travelled from the village of
Aguacatlan to St Juan Ixcoy, the channel oif a
little stream was pointed out to bim, Which the
Mam Indians <^aU Xobanha, implying, ^^ water
that is whistled fors** because, by whidtling at the
openings of some clefts in a solid rock, water will
immediately gush forth, but of which there is no
appearance, unless that method be used to exhibit
it. He also speaks of a subterranean river^ that
shews itself through a large aperture, at the foot
of a hill, about 2 miles from the village of Chial-
cbitan : at this spot a large quantity of water
boils up, and at once.ibi*ms a stream of consider-
able magnitude. Another river, of a moderate
size, falls into a deep pool, and disappears near
a place called Ranchó de las Minas, and rises
again on the opposite side of a ridge of moun-
tains near the River Socoleo. In tbe province of
Totóñicapan, there are several mountain streams,
which, falling froin lofty rocky eminences, form
cascaded of exquisite beauty: for instance, the
fall of the River St. Christoval de Paula ; that on
Hhe r^)ad to the Ranchos altos of Totonicapan ;
those at the village of Ouistla de los Xíotes, and
máfiy others. In the district of Totonicapan, at
the villages of St. Bartolomé aguas Callentes and
Totonicapan, there are some remarkable warm
springs^ the waters of which are strongly im-
pregnated with sulphur: thai at the latter vil-
lage, in particular, is so hot, that eggs, fruit,
or even flesh put into it will be perfectly
boiled in a short timé : iW the rímlíét' which
486
runs from this spring, the weavers cleanse frcMB
grease the wool they employ in their looms : the
others are of a lower temperature, and used as
baths.
The springs of salt-water at the village of St.
Mateo Istatlan (a name signifying the land of
salt), are yet more remarkable than the snlphuric
waters. At the foot x>f a large mountain, there
are several caverns penetrating about 2 yards
into the rock ; from the roof of these the water
continually exudes : if a vessel be ñlled with it,
and placed over a slow fire at night, it will be
found in the morning christalized into a fine salt,
without any other process. The Indians are
very economical in the distribution of this water,
as the caverns are locked op, and the keys kept
by the magistrate; they are opened only on
Thursdays, at a fixed hour, when the people as-
semble, and each person receives a pitcher full,
except the magistrates, and those belonging to the
church, who are entitled to double portions : they
carry on considerable traffic in this article, which
they sell in the adjacent provinces, and derive
from it a sufficient emolument to enable them to
live very comfortably.
In the province of Quezaltenango, there are
still to be met with the vestiges and found^^tions of
many large fortresses, among which is the cele-
brated one of Parrazquin, situated on the confines
of Totonicapan and Quezaltenango ; and the ci-
tadel of Olintepeque, formed with ail the jntrica-:
cies of a labyrinth, and which was the chief defence
of the important city of Xelahuh.
There are also in this district some unusual
specimens in natural history : the most remark*
487
able of which is the bat-wioged squirrel» found
OD the niountaihs, and in the woods of Quezalte-
nango, Totonicapan, and Solóla ; the figure and
size of these little animals are those of the com-
mon squirrel, but they have two small wings re-
sembling those of the bat^ without hair or other
covering; they can, however, fly but a short dis--
tance.
In the province of Solóla there are the remains
of palaces, castles, and other edificea of the ex-
tensive and opulent city of Utatlan ; but of these,
and of the lake of Atitan, a description has
been already given. Near the tillage of Atitan
there is a mineral spring of sour water, that
exudes, in the form of dew, from a rock^ and
trickles into a channel, forming a stream sufficient
to fill small vessels ; on account of its medicinal
virtues, it is in great request, and sent to distant
parts ; it is an excellent remedy for gravelly com-
plaints, and suppression of urine ; cures the swell-
ings in the throat, so common in this kingdom,
where the complaint is called houo^ and more
vulgarly güegüecho ; it has a flavour resembling
lemon, but it leaves no taste in the mouth.
In the province of Chimaltenaugo, the River
Pancacoya attracts attention ; it rises at the pass
of Pasacab, in the district of Xilotepeque, and de-
scends with great rapidity from a lofty rock ; but
before reaching the plain, it passes through a con-
duit formed in the rock, about a yard and a half
wide, and sufficiently high for a man to pasd
through with ease: where this channel termi-
nates, there is a range of columns curiously
wrought, with capitals, mouldings, &c. ; and a
little farther on there are several round ci^terqs
48&
fiumedja the rook ; these are abootta yard and: a
half m émneter, and nearly a yard hi depth : ^Üifere
Í8 no authentic accoant of the aae for which they
were employed ; bat, according to tradition; this
part ef the river was a washing^place for gold,
and it is supposed the cisterns were excavated
for that purpose. .
The cavern of Mixco is in the valley of Xilo-
tepequev near the situation where the ancient
village of Mixco stood : the description of this
place is taken from Fuentes (torn. 1, lib. 14, cap.
2), and must be understood to refer to the period
in which he wrote, that is, between 1600 ^nd
1700. On a small ridge of kmd on one side of
the ruins of ancient Mixco, is the «itrance to the
cavern; about 3 yards each way; the portico,
formed of elay, is in some parts entire; and ap-
pears to be of the Doric order. Fuentes says^
he inquired of some of the old Indiaos ho^' it
had been contrived to give so great a consist-
ency to the clay; and they informed hitíi, it was
done by grinding a quantity of onion-seed, and
mixing it in the water with which the clay was
tempered. From the entrance, a flight of 36
stone steps, ,each of. a single piece, descends to a
lofty saloon^ about 60 yards fikjuare ; from this
chamber, the descent continues by aéother flight,
beyopd which nothing more is kaown,^a8 no per-
son sufficiently courageous, or imprudent enough
to resist the indications of imminent danger
from the tremulous motion of the ground under
foot^ has yet advanced more than a few paces.
Descending 18 steps of this second flight, there
is on the right hand another door-way, form-
ing a perfect arch ; and having passed this, there
489
&te 6 steps, 10 all respects shnUar to the for-
mer, from which there is a f^ssager abont 140
feet ifi length* Farther than this part it has not
been explored ; many extraordinary accounts of it
have been fabricated, btit they are such as will
not bear repeating'.
' In the province Of ISacatepeqnes, the most
striking natnral cariosity is the gigantic moun-
tain, situated^ to the southward of old Guatemala,
vulgarly, and very erroneously, called the water
volcano (Volcan de Agua.) This mountain is of
a conical figure, the base of it extending tovcr
nearly all the western part of the valley of Gua-
temala ; on the «ide towards the city, the ascent
by >the road, from the base to the sunmiit, is 3
les^ues and a half} abd ftom the side of Alote-
nango, it is more than 4:leaguie0 ; the circutnib-
renceat the bottomisldleagnes.The coup-d'ceil of
it \^ extremely agreeable from every point of sij^ht,
both from the figure and great variety of colours
on its surfece, some parts being well cultivated,
and others covered with thickets ; on which
side «oever it is seen, it {u^sents a divef^ified and
deNghtf ul prospect. The prod uc tions of the soil
are as various, as they are useful, consisting of
maize, pulse of all kinds, vegetables;, án ad-
mirable Tariety of flowers of eviery description,
and abundance of excellent timber : cultivation
is confined tp the lower parts of the mountain,
but were it extended farther upward the pro-
duce of every kind would undoubtedly be more
than double in qnantity; the iniddle region is
covered with thick forests, that would furnish
an inexhaustible quantity of timber; fit for every
purpose. During great part of the summer, the
490
city is supplied with snow from the moontaiD,
which also yields game of various sorts in profa-
sioD. On the skirts of it there are numerous mi-
neral and medicinal springs, many Indian vil-
lages, besides great number of detached houses
and farms. On the summit, there is a concave
space, resembling a crater, measuring about 140
yards by 120 ; frpm the edge of this crater a most
beautiful prospect presents itself in every direc-
tion: Old Guatemala, with its fertile fields, and
numerous farms, the village and lake of Amati-
tan, with all the surrounding country, can be dis-
tinctly seen; very remote points of view are
easily descried, more or less clearly in proportion
to their distances : looking westward, the pro-
vinces of Suchiltepeques, Soconusco, and even
the plains of Cbiapa may be discovered ; to the
eastward, the provinces of Sonsonate, St. Ana
Grande, and St. Salvador, with the lake of Gilo-
pango, may be distinguished ; on the north and
south, the view is bounded by the two oceans.
This mountain stands between 2 volcanoes ; one
on the eastward is called the volcano of Pacaya,
and that to the westward the volcano of Guate-
mala> or vulgarly the fire volcano; from each of
these there have been formidable eruptions from
time immemorial : the most remarkable since the
arrival of the Spaniards, have been already parti-
cularized. Besides these, there happened one at
the close of the 18th century, of which no men-
tion was made, as it was unattended with any
injurious consequences; although it lasted se-
veral days, the water of a spring on the side of
Alotenango was observed to have been heated,
during the eruption, to such a degree, that cattle
491
were unable to pass tbroagh the i^tmlet roiimiig
froita }t. The latter mouvlt^ is ditoated to the
south-west of Old Guatemala ; at the base, its
figure is cmiical, but uear the sumniit it is divided
into 3 points» in the westernmost of which se*
yeral openings may be seen, that frequently emit
flames^ pumice stones, sand, and smoke. Pacaya
stands to the eastward of the water volcano,
and of Old Guatemala, but to the southward
of the present capital, and 3 leagues from the
village of Amatitan. This mountain is connected
with a range that extends to a great distance ;
like the last-mentioned^ its summit is divided
into 3 peaks; the surrounding country is thickly
covered with volcanic matter, the accumulated
produce of its numerous eruptions. Fuentes (tom.
1, lib. 9, cap. 9,) says, that in his time there was
scarcely a day throughout the year, in which one
or the other of its lofty peaks did not emit
flames. On the authority of the same author, we
are informed of several eruptions of this moun-
tain, viz. that of 1565, which caused the ruin and
devastation to Old Guatemala and the neigh-
bourhood, that has been already narrated ; the
one on the 18th of February, 1651, when thick
black smoke was emitted, with terrible noise and
strong convulsions of the earth ; in 1664, such im-
mense quantities of flames were vomited forth with
the most appalling explosions, that, during the
nighty the city, at the distance of 7 leagues, was
illuminated by a light not inferior to that of mid-
day : the terror, from the vibrations of the earth,
was so great, that the inhabitants were afraid to
trust themselves within their houses during the 3
403
days of ite contionance. Similar events occoned
in 1088, in Aagast, 1071, and Jaly^ 1677; bat
there are no records of any others after this au-
thor's time, until that which took place on the
11th of July, 1775, when, at day-break, without
any previous noise, or any perceptible oseHlatíón
of the earth, a dense cloud of smoke was ob-
served from Old Guatemala (where the writer of
the present work was at that time), in the south-
west direction, which arose from behind the
range of mountains that concealed the volcano
from the view; to discover the flames, it was
necessary to go to the village of Santa Maria de
Jesus, whence could be distinguished the aper-
ture through which they burst; from this there
arose a large column of thick smoke and vast
quantities of burning stones, .that fell again into
the crater : sand was also thrown . oat in such
abundance, that being carried by the wind, it fell
so copiously in Old Guatemala, as to -obscure the
light of the sun, and thickly cover the ground ; the
vnnd having changed, the sand was carried in a
southerly direction as far as the proviaces of Es-
cuintla and Suchiltepeques. It was «remarked
on this occasion, that the eruption was not from
either of the summits^ but from the region' where
the mountain is divided into 3^ peaks.
In the Valley of Petapa some human bones of
gigantic size have been discovered^ and Fuentes
mentions, (tom. 1, lib. 9, cap. 1,) that Don Fayo
de Rivera carried away with him a tooth (dens
molaris), which was found in this place, as large
as a man's two fii^ts.
The valley of Las Yacas was the place where
493
neat cattle was first introduced idto this country;
that tn^ct fell to; the lot of Hector dé Barreda^ one
of the original conapanions of Alvarádo ; and as
he observed there was a great want of cattte for
food, he procured, at bis own expense, ^ number
of cows and bulls from the jsaland of Cuba, which
he pastured in ^be valley ; the animals thtove so
well^ and multiplied sa fast^ that they were soon
dispersed over all parts of the kingdom : tiiis cir^
cutostance gave the name of Las Yacas (the cows)
to the valley. It appears from the second book
of the cabildos, oa the 20th of July, 1530> it waH
ordered that for the celebration of the festival of
St'. Jago, a bull should be purchased ^* from the
herd of Barreda, for which 35 dollars of standard
gold should be paid*""
At a short distance from the confines of Las
Yacas, on its east^o: side, runs the River Chorrera,
deserving notice>frdm the petrifying quality of
its water^, whiich act «pon any kind of wood : if
the root or branch of a tree fell so that a part of it
lays in the water, the portion which is immersed
becomes petrified into á substance of a shining
white or gray colour^ but the other part remains
in its natural. Atatev and it is observed, that
wher$ the ourrentof the. water is' rapidv the transt-
formation is more speedily edected thatiin places
wbm^ the stream 4s élow; The substance thus
traosfbrmed always preserviea the. natural porosity
and texture of its fibres.; ^
In the valley of Saóatepeqpes, near, the village
of St. Pfdfo, a miñe of rubies was acddentally
discovered in the year 1681, by Francisco de Paz
y Quiñones^ 6i Dominican, thenr curate of St.Pedró:
494
as he was amasing himself one afternooti^ he di-*
rected his walk towards a pass in the mountain,
through which ran a clear rivulet; he observed
on the side of the bed of the river a vein of white
clay, interspersed with red and black patches;
being attracted by the variety and brilliance of
the colours, and the reflections of small sparkling
substances, he took up a part of the clay, which
he carried to Guatemala, and gave to the licen^
iiate, Christoval Martin, an intelligent man,
conversant in the nature of metalsy who having
fused the mass that weighed 3 pounds, deli-
vered to the curate on his return a piece of pure
silver rather more than- half an ochava in weight,
(the ochava is 75 grains), and 7 rubies of the size
of small beans. Fuentes bears testimony to this
fact, and says he had in his hands the silver and
the gems. A few days after the discovery, the
curate was elected prior of the convent of Guate-
mala, which obliged him to quit bis curacy, and
no more was heard of the mine.
Many other very remarkable productions, both
animal and vegetable, of these fine provinces might
be mentioned; but most of them are generally
known to the natives of this country, and fo-
reigners may obtain a description of them by
consulting " Alcedo's Vocabulary of the Pro-
vincial Words of America.*' The green chapuli,
however, should not be passed over in silence ;
this is a large grasshopper, or species of locust,
about a span long, found near the villages of
St Christoval Amatitan and PampichiUi and is,
certainly, one of the most extraordinary produc-
tions of nature; at the extremity of the tail it has
495
a sharp curved point like a tb^rii, which when
become hard the animal bas attained its full
growth; if killed in this state, and carefully
opened, a ^mall bunch of seeds (similar to those
of the passion-flower) about an inch long, attached
to ramifying fibres, is found in the intestines :
these grains being sown, will produce a plant
like the gourd, which will bear a fruit resembling
small pofi$pions, as yellow and brilliant as gold;
the seeds of which sown again, will bring forth
similar fruit, but of much superior size. It cer-
tainly appears at first ^iew to be. an incredible
fact, that any individual of the animal species
should pass into that of the vegetable, and that a
plant should be raised from an animal substance;
but we can undoubtedly observe in nature trans-
formations not less admirable or extraordinary
than this, and yet they do not appear to us pro^
digious, only because they are common, and come
fi'equently under our notice. We commonly wit-
ness small reptiles that^ after enjoying for a little
time an almost immovable existence, pass into
-the state of chrysalidae, in which existence ap-
pears extinct; after remaining several days, until
. the period of inanimation be fulfilled, they be-
come beautiful butterflies, and by their fecundity
reproduce myriads of beings similar to those
they derived their own existence from. If then
an animal passes from the reptile to the volatic
race, it will hardly be deemed impossible, that
part of an aninial may be converted into a seed,
which being placed in the ground will produce a
plant endowed with fecundity, like the butterfly,
to increase and perpetuate its species. To this
496
may be added, that the greater part o{ animals
have certaio parts which are not sensitÍTe, but
merely v^etative, and in a manner vegetable ra-'
mifications springing from their bodies ; snch as
hair^. feathers»! nails, &c. which are in all respects
comparable tú the brandies and foliage of trees ;
is it then impossible^ that, some animals should
prodi^e from their intestines substances similar
to the seeds of plants ? Ajdmitting the. possibility
of these propositioiM, reliance may be placed
uponr information communicated by men»- upon
whose veracity no doubt can rest; Francisco
Fuenteé has related the fact, and to be satistíed
of its correctness only requireá a reference to his
works^ in which he assures us^ that Thomas de
Melgar^ a venerable priest, whose credit is un*
impeachable, tried the experiment, and having
sown the seeds^ found the result to accord pre-»
cisely with that which has been related. .
497
A Table of the Provinces and Districts of the
Kingdom o/Guatemala^ with the Cities^ Towns^
and Villages in eachy and number of Inhabitants^
from a Census taken by Order of Government
in 1778.
La Ciudad de Guatemala
Province of Sacatepeques
Province of Chimaltenango
Province of Solóla . .
Province of Quezaltenango
Province of Totonicapan
Province of Chiquimula
Province of Verapaz
Province of Escuintla
Province of Zonzonate
Province of Sucbiltepeques
Province of St. Salvador
Province of Leon . .
District of Matagalpa
District of Realejo
District of Subtiava .
District of Nicoya
Province of Ciudad, Real
Province of Soconusco
Province of Tuxtla
Province of Comajagua
Province of TegucigaP
Province of Costa-Ri<
District of Peten ....
Castles of St. Juan, St. Felipe,
y Omoa
ilea
J i
1
i
1
Ü
Í
>
»i
0
0
0
23,434*
1
2
48
50,786
0
1
21
40,082
0
0
31
27,953
0
0
25
28,563
0
0
48
51,272
0
0
SO
52,423
1
0
14
49,583
0
1
S3
24,978
0
1
21
29.248 .
0
0
19
17,535
«
4
121
117,436
3
4
28
68,929
0
0
12
19.955
0
1
3
6.209
0
0
5
8,850
0
0
1
2,983
1
1
,56
40,277
0
0
20
, 9,078
0
0
33
19,898 .
3
1
94
56,275
0
2
23
31,455
1
3
10
24,536
0
0
9
2,555
0
0
00
01,046
Total
12 21 705 806,339
* The number of inhabitaoto of the city of New Goatemala, is in-
serted from a census taken in 1795, and to the province of Sacatepe-
qnes 8000 have been added, being the present amount of population
in Old Guatemala.
2 K
498
An Alphabetical List of aH the Cities, Towns,
and Villages of the Kingdom of Gruatenuda.
Placet.
Acacozagiia
Acalá, St..Pablo
Acapetagua
Acasaguaatlan
St. Cliristoval
Acatan, St. Migud
Acatenango
Acoyapa town
Aculuaca
Agalteca
Agalteca
Aguacatan
Agtiacatenango
Aguacatepeque
Aguacfaapan
Mineral springs
—St. Andres
— St. Antonio
—St. Bartolomé
— Santa Catarina
— St. Lorenzo
A^an^ueterique
Ajnterique
Akpa
Si. Alejo Vil
Almolonga, Concepción
■ St. Pedro
Alotenango^ St. Juan
Alotepeqiie, Mine
Altxbaren
Anmpala
Amarateca
Anaatan
Amate nango
■■■ ■ Santiago
Amatitan, St. Christov.
' ' St# Domingo
St. Jtian
St Ana
St. Ana
Bishoprickft.
Cbiapa
Chiapa
Cbiapa
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Honduras
Honduras
Guatemala
Chiapa
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Honduras
Honduras
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Guatemala
Honduras
Cbiapa
Cbiapa
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Yucatan
Diftricts.
Soconusco
Ciudad Real
Soconusco .
Cap. of District
Acasaguastlan
Gueguetenango
Cbimaltenango
Granada
St. Salvador
Tegucigalpa
Comayagua
Gueguetenango
Ciudad Real
Escuintia
Zonzonate
Cbimaltenango
Cbimaltenango
Totonicapan
Cbimaltenango
Cbimaltenango
T^ucigalpa
Comayagua
Comayagua
St. Miguel
Sacatepeques
Queza}tenango
Cbimaltenango
Cbiquimula
Tegucigalpa
St. Miguel
Tegucigalpa
Ciudad Real
Ciudad Real
Gueguetenango
Sacatepeques
Cbiquimnlai
Saoatep^ues
Tegucigafpfi
Peten
499
PkiM.
Btihapricks.
Diftricu.
Santa Am Grande
GMiemala
Cap. of District
Analco
Guatemala
St. Vicente
Anamoroz
Guatemala
St. Miguel
St. Andres
Chiapa
Ciudad Real
St, Andrés
Guatemala
Atitan
St. Andres, Mine
Honduras
Comayagua
St. Andres
Yucatan
Peten
St. Andres Deem
Gaalemala
Sacatepequee
Angel
Guatemata
Zonzonate
St. Antoo
Guatemala
Sacatepeques
Ciudad Real
St. Antonio
Cbiapa
St. Antonio
Guatemata
St. Salvador
St. Antonio
H^mdurra
Comayagua
St. Antonio
Honduras
Comayagua ^
St. Antonio Mine
Honduras
Comayagua
St. Antonio del niont.
Guatemala
Zonzonate
Apaneca
Guatemab
Zonzonate
Apastepeque
Guatemala
St. Vicente
Apocapa, St. Pedro
G«iatemata
Chimaltenango
Santa Apolonia
G^iatemala
Chimaltenango
Apopa
Guatemala
St. Salvador
Aquespala
Chiapa
Ciudad Real
Aramtnla
Guatemala
St. Miguel
Aramesina
Honduras
Tegucigalpa
Arcatao
Guatemala
St. Salvador
Aserri
Nicaragua
Costa-Rica
Asuico
Guatemala
Guazacapan
Ataco
Guatemala
Zonzonate
Ateos, St. Antonio
Guatemala
Santa Ana Grande
Atiquipaqiia
Guatemsda
Guazacapan
Atiquizaya
Guatemala
Santa Ana Grande
Atescatempa
Guatemsda
Chiquimula
Atirro Reduc
Nicaragua
CosU-Rica
Atitan^ St. Juan
Guatemala
Gueguetenango
Santiago
Guatemala
Cap. of District
Ayutla ruins
Chiapa
Soconusco
Ayutustepeque
Guatemala
St. Salvador
Bachajum
Chiapa
Ciudad Real
Bagases Town
Nicaragua
Costa-Rica
Balanyac
Guatemala
Chimaltenango
Barba, St. Bartolomé
Nicaragua
Costa-Rica
Santa Barbara
Guatemala
Atitan
Santa Barbara*
Guatemala
Gueguetenango
Santa Barbara
Honduras
2 K 2
Comayagua
500
PiMet.
Bbliopricks.
St. Bartolomé
Guatemala
St. Bartol. de los Llanos
1 Chiapa
St. Barnabe
Yucatan
St. Beraardino
Guatemala
Boaco
Nicaragua
Bobadilla, St Catarina
Guatemala
St. Buenaventura
Honduras
Buruca fiLeduc
Nicaragua
Cabrican
Guatemala
Cacaguatlan
Chiapa
Cacaoatique
Guatemala
Cacaopera
Guatemala
Cacauterique
Honduras
Cahabon^ Santa Maria
Guatemala
Caiquin
Honduras
Caluco
Guatemala
Camasca
Honduras
Camoapa
Nicaragua
Camotan
Guatemala
Cancuc
Chiapa
Candelaria, N. S. de
Ant Guat
Candelaria, N. S. de
Guatemala
Candelaria^ N. S. de
Honduras
Cantarranas
Honduras
Cantel
Guatemala
Carcha
Guatemala
Caridad
Honduras
Cartago City
Nicaragua
Catacamas
Honduras
Catarina, Santa
Guatemala
Cauque, Santa Maria
Guatemala
Cedros Mine
Honduras
CelUac
Honduras
Cerquin
Honduras
Cerrillo
Chiapa
Cesori
Guatemala
Chagüite
Guatemala
Chahul, St. Gaspar
Guatemala
Chalatenango
Guatemala
Chalchiguistlan St. Pab.
Chiapa
Chalchuapa
Guatemala
Chamelco
Guatemala
Chamula
Chiapa
Chapeltique Town
Guatemala
Dbtoicte.
Sacatepeques
Ciudad Real
Peten
Suchiltepeques
Matagalpa
Sacatepeques
Comaya^a
Costa-Rica
Quezaltenango
Soconusco
St. Miguel
St. Miguel
Comayagua
Verapaz
Comayagua
Zonzonate
Comayagua
Matagalpa
Chiquimula
Ciudad Real
Sacatepeques
Bar. de la N. G.
Comayagua
Tegucigalpa
Quezaltenango
Verapaz
Comayagua
Cap. de Costa- Rica
Comayagua
Atitan
Sacatepeques
Tegucigalpa
Comayagua
Comayagua'
Ciudad Real
St. Miguel
Chimaltenango
Totonicapan
St. Salvador
Ciudad Real
Santa Ana Grande
• Verapaz
Ciudad Real
St. Miguel
501
Placel.
Chapultenango
Chianda
Chiapa de Indios
Chiapilla
Chicanguescoi
Chicoacan
Chicoi
Chichicastenango
Chichigalpa
Chiianga
Chiltiapa
Chilum
Chimalten, Santa Ana
■■ — Santiago
Chinada
Chinameca, St. Franc.
St. Juan
Chinandega
Chinauta
Chinda
Chipalapa
Cbipilapa
Chíquazen
Chiquiroucelo
Chiquiroula de la Sierra
Santa Maria
Cbiquimulilla
Chiquiripiapa
Chol^ Santa Cruz del
Choluteca Val.
St. Christoval el alto.
St. Christoval el bajo.
Chuchi
Chucuyucd
Ciudad Real City
St. Clara
Coapilla
Coatan
Coatepeque
Coban City
Coginicuilapa
Cojutepeque
Coloete
Colomoncagua
Colosuca
Bisbopricki.
Chiapa
Guatemala
Chiapa
Chiapa
Guatemala
Chiapa
Guatemala
Guatemala
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Guatemala
Chiapa
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Guatemala
Guatemala
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Honduras
Guatemala
Guatemala
Chiapa
Chiapa
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Honduras
Chiapa
Guatemala
Chiapa
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Honduras
Honduras
Dbtricto.
Tustla
Gueguetenango
Tuxtla
Ciudad Real
Santa Ana Grande
Tuxtla
Chimaltenango
Quiche
Realejo
St. Miguel
Santa Ana Grande
Ciudad Real
Cap. de la Prov.
Gueguetenango
Comayagua
St. Salvador
St. Miguel
Realejo
Sacatepeques
Comayagua
Acasaguastlan
Escuintla
Tuxtla
Ciudad Real
Cap. of District
Totonicapan
Guazacapan
Quezaltenango
Verapaz
Tegucigalpa
Sacatepeques
Sacatepeques
Comayagua
Comayagua
Cap. de la Prov.
Atitan
Tuxtía
Gueguetenango
St. Ana Grande
Cap. de la Prov.
Guazacapan
St. Salvador
Comayagua
Comayagua
Comayagua* •
PUcef.
Coloteoango
Comacaran
Comalapa
Comalapam
St. Juan
Comapa
Comayagua City
Comayaguela
Comazagua
Comitaguacan
Comitan, Santa Cruz
Comitlan
Comoapa ruins
ConcepcioD
Conchagua
Condega
Conguaco
Copainalá
Corpus Mine
Cosumalguapan
Cot
Cozal
Santa Cruz
Santa Cruz
Santa Cruz
Cubuico
Cuchy St. Cbristoval
Cuchuroatan, St. Martin
Todos Santos
Cucuyagua
Cuilco
Cunen
Curaren
Curridaba
Cururu
Cuscatan
Cuscatansingo
Cusnagua
Custepe^ues
Custictali
Cuyotenango
Cuyutitan
Danll
San Diego
502
Báfhoprickf.
Guatemala
Guatemala
Nicaragua
Chiapa
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Honduras
Guatemala
Chiapa
Guatemda
Chiapa
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Chiapa
Honduras
Guatemala
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Nicaragua
Honduras
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Chiapa
Chiapa
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Chiapa
Diiltfetf.
Gueguelenaago
St. Miguel
Matagalpa
Ciudad Real
Chimaltenango
Guazacapam
Cap. de la ProT.
Teguckalpa
Santa Ana Grande
Tuxtia
Quezaltenango
Ciudad Real
Escuintla
Atitan
St. Miguel
Jjeaa
Guazacapan
Tuxtia
Tegucigalpa
Escuintla
Costa- Rica
Gueguetenango
Sacatepeques
Solóla
Verapas
Verapaz
Quezaltenango
Gueguetenango
Gueguetenai^o
Comayagua
Gueguetenango
Gueguetenango
Tegucigalpa
Costa-Rica
Comayagua
St. Salvador
St. Salvador
Santa Ana Grande
Ciudad Real
Ciudad Real
Suchiltepeques
St. Salvador
Tegucigalpa
Ciudad Real
Díria
Diríamba
Diríomo
Dolores^ N. S. de
Erandiijue
Ereguaiquio
Escasú
Esclavos^ Puiif . de
Escuintla Concepci£n
■ Santo Domingo
£scuintenango
Esparza City
Espirita Santo
Esquipulas
Esteli Town
St. Estevan
Santa Eulalia
St. Felipe
St. Felipe
St. Fernando de Guada.
St, Francisco Town
St. Francisco, ruined
St. Francisco el Alto.
St. Gabriel
D. Garcia
St. Gaspar
St. Geroninao
St. Gerónimo
Goaimaoa Towft
Gomera Villa de la
Gotera
Gracias á DÍM Cit^
Granada City
Guacara
Guacoteete
Guaimango
Guaimoco
Guajinlaca
Guajiquiro
Gusuaco
Gualala
Gualan
503
Bithopríckt.
Nicaragua
Nicaragua
Nicaragua
Yucatan
Honduras
Guatemala
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Guatemala
Cbiapa
Chiapa
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Guatemala
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Chilla
Cbiapa
Honduras
Guatemala
Guatemala
Cbiapa
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Yucataoí
Honduras
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Honduras
Honduras
Honduras
Guatemala
Oktríeti.
Granada
Granada
Granada
Peten
Comayagua
St. Miguel
Costa- Rica
Guazacapan
Cap. de Prov.
Soconusco
Ciudad Real
Costa-Rica
Sacatepeques
Cbiquimtua
Segovia
Cbiquiroula
Gueguetenango
Sacatepeques
Ciudad Real
Ciudad Real
Tejgucigalpa
Atitan
Totonicapan
Tuxtla
Escuintla
Sacatepeques
Secatepeques
Peten
Tegucigalpa
Escuintla
St. Miguel
Comayagua
Cap. of District
St. Miguel
St. Miguel
Zonzonate
Zonzonate
Comayagua
Comayagua
Comayagua
Comayagua
Acasaguastan
. Plwet.
Gualcha
Glial mosca
Gualococte
Gualsime
Giianacastle
Guanagazapa
Guaiicapla
Guarajambela
Guarita
Guasavasque
Guascoran
Guatagiago
Guatemala C^y
Guatemala Old Town
Guazacapao
Guazapa
Gueguetan
Gueguetenango
■ Concepción
■ Santa Isabel
• St. Sebastian
Gueitiupan, Asunc.
■ Santa Catarina
St. Pedro
Guelosingo
Guepetagua
Guisapan, Sto. Domingo
Guista
— - Santa Ana
-— — St. Antonio
Guistan
Guisucar
Santa Helena
Hermita, St. Juan
Ichil^ St. Gaspar
Uama
Ilotenango
Santa Ines
Intibucat
Intipuca
Ipala
Santa Isabel Godines
Isalco
504
Bbbopricks.
Honduras
Honduras
Guatemala
Honduras
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Honduras
Honduras
Honduras
Honduras
Honduras
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Cbiapa
Guatemala '
Guatemala
Guatemala
Cbiapa
Chiapa
Cbiapa
Cbiapa
Cbiapa
Guatemala
Cbiapa
Guatemala
Guatemala
Cbiapa
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
DUtricts.
Comayagua
Comayagua
St. Miguel
Comayagua
Nicoya
Escuintla
Comayagua
Comayagua
Comayagua
Comayagua
Tegucigalpa -
St. Miguel
Cap. of tbe Kingdom
Cap. de Prov.
Cap. of District
St. Salvador
Soconusco
Cap. of District
Gueguetenango
Gueguetenango
Ciudad Real
Ciudad Real
Ciudad Real
Soconusco
Soconusco
Zonzonate
Soconusco
Gueguetenango
Gueguetenango .
Ciudad Real
St. Salvador
Cbiquimula
Cbiqiiimula
Gueguetenango
Comayagua
Solóla
Sacatepeques
Comayagua
St. Miguel
Cbiquimula
Sacatepeques
Zonzonate
505
*PUw*.
Bbbf^ikks.
Distrkti.
Isguatan
Chiapa
Tujftla
Todos Santos
Guatemala
Guazacapan
Istacomitaa
Chiapa
Tuxüa
Istaguacao
— Santa Catarina
Guatemala
Solóla
— St. Ildefonso
Guatemala
Gueguetenango
— St. Miguel
Guatemala
Quezaltenango
Istapa
Chiapa
Tuxtla
Istapangi^oya
Chiapa
Tuxtia
Isleiieque
Guatemala
St. Vicente
Ixcoi, Sit. Juan
Guatemala
Guciguetenango
Ixtatan, St. Mateo
Guatemala
Gueguetenango
Izapa
Guatemala
Chimalten^go
Jacaltenango^ St. Aiidr.
Guatemala
Gueguetenango
— Concepción
Guatemala
Gueguetenango
— St. Marcos
Guatemala
Gueguetenango
— Purificación
Guatemala
Gueguetenango
St. Salvador
St. Jacinto
Guatemala
St. Jacinto
Guatemala
Chiquimula
Jastjque
Honduras
Coroayagua
Jalapa
— Santa Maria
Honduras
Comayagiia
Guatemala
Chiquimula
Jalapa
Nicaragua
Granada
Jalpatagua
Guatemala
Guazacapan
Jalteba
Nicaragua
Granada
Jaltique
Guatemala
Santa Ana Grande
Jamastran
Honduras
Tegucigalpa
Jano
Honduras
Comayagua
Jayaque
Guatemala
Santa Ana Qrande
Jeto
Honduras
Comayagua
Jilipango
St. Salvador
Jilobasco
Guatemala
St. Salvador
Jinotepet.
Nicaragua
Granada
Jiquilisco
Guatemala
St. Miguel
Jocoaitique
Guatemala
St. Miguel
Jocoara *
Honduras
Comayagua
Jocopilas, St. Pedro
Guatemala
Solóla
— St. PaWo
Guatemala
Suchiltepequei
Jocon
Honduras
Comayagua
Jocon
Honduras
Oomayagua
Joconquern
Honduras
Comayagua
Jocoro
Guatemala
St. Miguel
Jocotan
Guatemala
Chiquimula
Jocotenango Ola
Guatemala
Sacatepequ^s
31.
506
Pll¿«.
Bitboprícks.
Diftrictf^
Jocotenango Nueva
Guatemala
Sacatepeques
St Bartolomé
Guatemala
Solóla
St. Jorge
Nicaragua
Nicaragua
St. Jorge
Guatemala
SoloK
St. José
Yucatan
Peten
St. Jo8¿
Guatemala
Chiquimula
St. José
Guatemala
Solóla
Joyabach
Guatemala
Solóla
Jualapa
Guatemala
Santa Ana Grande
St. Juan
Honduras
Comayagua
St. Juan Gascon
Guatemala
Sacatepeqaea
St. Juan de Goatem.
Guatemala
Sacátepeques
St. Juan de Laborío
Nicaragua
Leon
St. Juan de la Lagun
Guatemala
Atitaa
St. Juan de los Lepros
Guatemala
Atitao .
Juayuba
Guatemala
Zonzooate
Jucuapa
Guatemala
St. Miguel
Jucuaran
Guatemala
St. Miguel
Juigalpa
Nicaragua
Matagalpa
Jumaiy St. Francisco
Guatemala
Guazacapan
Jumunique
Guatemala
Santa Ana Grande
Jnpitepeque
Guatemala
Chiquimula
Jurla
Honduras
Comayagua
Jutlapa
Guatemala
Chiquimula
St. Salvador
Jutiapilla
Guatemala
Juticalpa
Honduras
Comayagua
Juyuttt
Guatemala
Zonzonate
Lacampa
Honduras
Comayagua
Lag^a
Honduras
Comayagua
La|;uata
Honduras
Comayagua >
Laiguala
Honduras
Comayagua
Langue
Honduras
Tegucigalpa
Laniani
Honduras
Comayagua
Lanquin
G uatemala
Verapaz
Lapaera
Honduras
Comayagua
Lauterique
Honduras
Tegucigalpa .,
Lemoa -
Guatemala
Solóla
Leon City
Nicaragua
Cap de la Prov.
Lepateríque
Honduras
Tegucigalpa
Lexamani
Honduras
Comayagua
Linacá
Honduras
Tegucigalpa
Lislic
Guatemala
St. Miguel
Lobaga
Nicaragua
Matagalpa
l^obiguisca '
Nicaragua
Mate^pa
Places.
Lolotique, St. Francisco
— Trinidad
St. Lorenzo el Real
St. Lucas
St. Lucas Cabrera
Santa Lucia Monten*.
Santa Lucia
Santa Lucia
St. Lucia Mine
St. Luis
St. Luis de las Garret
Macholoa
La Magdalena
La Magdalena
Santa M. Magdalena
Santa M. Magdalena
Majatique
Maiacatan^ Santa Ana
Managua
Maniani
Manto
Mapástep^ue
Márcala
St Marcos
St. Marcos de la Lagima
Santa Maria de Jesus
Santa Maria de Jesus
St. Martin
St. Martin Mine
St. Marün
Masagua, St. Antonio
— Santa Catarina
— St. Luis
— St. Juan
— St. Pedro
Masaya ^
Matagalpa
Mataquescuinta
St. Mateo
Mathiaré
Mazaguara
Mazaltenango
— St. Bartolomé
— Si. Gabriel
507
Bithopricks.
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Chiapa
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Yucatan
Guatemala
Honduras
Guatemala
Chiapa
Guatemala
Chiapa
Honduras
Guatemala
Nicaragua
Honduras
Honduras
Chiapa
Honduras
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Chiapa
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Nicaragua
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Guatemala
Nicaragua'
Honduras
Guatemala
Guaten]iala
2 l2
Diitrictf.
St. Miguel
St. Miguel
Suchiltepeques
Ciudad Ileal
Sacatepeques
Sacatepeques
Santa Ana Grande
Acasaguastan
Comayagua
Peten
Sacatepeques
Comayagua
Acasaguastan
Tuxtia
Sacatepeques
Ciudad Real
Comayagua
Gueguetenango
Granada
Comayagua
Comayagua
Soconusco
Comayagua
Quezaltenango
Atitan
Sacatepeques
Quezaltenango
Quezaltenango
Tegucigalpa
Ciudad Real
St. Salvador
Zonzonate
£8cuintla
Santa Ana Grande
St. Salvador
Granada
Cap. of District
Chiquimula
Quezaltenango
Leon
Comayagua
Suchiltepeques
Suchiltepeques
508
flacet.
Bbbopricks.
'M'ttTorkO r^i«**AMUk1«
MazapeUigtta, romed
Chiapa
Mazatan
Chiapa
Mazatepet
Nicaragua
Metapa
Nicaragua
Metapas, St. Pedro
Guatemala
Mexicanos
Cbiapa
— Asuncion
Guatemala
— Santa Isabel
Guatemala
Mexicapa
Honduras
— Asuncion
Guatemala
Miambar
Honduras
Mianguera
Guatemala
Micapa
St. Miguel City
Chiapa
Guatemala
St» Miguel
Yucatan
St Miguel
Chiapa
St. Miguel) ruined
Guatemala
St. Miguelite
Guatemala
Milpa Dueñas
Guatemala
Milpas altas^ St. Ana
Guatemala
— St. Bartolomé
Guatemala
— St. .Mateo
Guatemala
— St. Miguel
Guatemala
— Santo Tomas
Guatemala
Mita, Aswicion
Guatemala
— Santa Catarina
Guatemala
Mixco, Santo Domingo
Guatemala
Mixtan^ Sante Ana
Guatemala
— át. Juan
Guatemala
Mizata
Guatemala
Momostenango
Guatemala
Moncagua
Guatemala
Morolica
Hotiduras
Motocinta
Guatemala
Moyos
Chiapa
Moyuta
Guatemala
Mozonte
Nican^ua
Muimtn
Nicaragua
Mustiquipaque
Gnalemala
Nacaome
Honduras
NagaMe
Nicaragua
Naguahte. ruined
Guatemala
DittHds.
Gueguet^nango
Gueguetenar^o
Soconusco
Soconusco
Granada
Leon
Santa Ana Grande
Ciudad Real
St. Salvador
Zonzonate
Comayagua
St. Miguel
Comayagua
St. Mq(uel
Tuxda
Cap. of District
Peten
Ciudad Real
Suchiltepeques
Sacatepeques
Chimaltenango
Sacatepeques
Sacatepeques
Sacatepeques
Sacatepeques
Sacatepeques
Chiquimula
Chiquimula
Sacatepeques
Escuintia
Escuintia
Santa Ana Grande
Totonicapan
St. Migud
Tegucigalpa
Gueguetenango
Ciudad Real
Guazacapsm
Nueva Sego?ia .
Matagalpa
Guazacapan
Teguc^lp a
Leon
Suchiltepeques
Placet.
Naguatlan, ruined
Nahiiisaloo
Namasiguet
Namotiva, Santa CataL
— St. Juan
Nancinta
Nandagomo
Nandaime
Navia, Santa Maria de
Naulingo
Nebah, Santa Maria
Necta, St. Pedro
Nejapa
— St. Antonio
— St. Gerónimo
Nicaragua Town
Nicaragua Pueblo
St. Nicolas Laborio
Nicoya
Nindiri
Niquiuohomo
Nueva Segovia City
Nunualco^ St. Juan
— St. Pedro
— St. Tiago
Ocotal
Ocotepeque
Odotepeque
Ocotzocoutla
Ocosingo
Ojojona
Ojuera
Olancho
Olanchito City
Olintepeque
Olocuilta
Ometepet
Opatoro
Opico^ St. Juan
Opoa
Opoteca
Orica
Orocuitta
Orosi
509
Bitloprickt.
Chiapa
Guatemala
Honduras
Nicaragua
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Nicaragua
Nicaragua
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Chiapa
Guatemala
Guatemala
Nicaragua
Nicaragua
Nican^ua
Nicaragua
Nicaragua
Nicaragua
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Nicaragua
Honduras
Chiapa
Chiapa
Chiapa
Honduras
Honduras
Honduras
Honduras
Guatemala
Guatemala
Nicaragua
Honduras
Guatemala
Honduras
Honduras
Honduras
Honduras
Nicaragua
Dklricti.
Soconusco
Zonzonate
Tegucigalpa
Granada
Granada
Guazacapan
Granada
Granada
Leon
Zonzonate
Gueguetenango
Gueguetenango
Soconusco
Chimalteni(ng9
St. Salvador
Cap. of District
Nicaragua
Leon
Cap. of District
Granada
Granada
Cap. of District
St. Vicente
St. Vicente
St. Vicente
Nueva Segovia
Comayagua
Tuxtla
Tuxtla
Ciudad Real
Tegucigalpa
Comayagua
Comayagua
Comayagua
Quezaltenango
St. Salvador
Granada
Comayagua
Santa Ana Grande
Comayagua
Comayagua
Tegucigalpa
Tegucigalpa
CoiCa^Rica
510
Places.
BitlH>pricks.
Osicala
Guatemala
Osoloealco, ruined
Chiapa
Ostuacan
Chiapa
Oftonui
Guatemala
OstuDcalco
Guatemala
Ostuta
Chiapa
Osimuunnta
Chiapa
Oxchuc
Chiapa
St. Pablo de la Laguna
Guatemala
Pacaca
Nicaragua
Palacagukia
Nicaragua
Paleca
Guatemala
Palenque, St. Dom.
Chiapa
Panahachel
Guatemala
Pancfaimalco
Guatemala
Pantepeque
Chiapa
Parramos
Guatemala
Pasaco
Guatemala
Pastores
Guatemala
Patulul
Guatemala
Patzicia
Guatemala
Patzum
Guatemala
St. Pedro
Chiapa
St. Pedro de las Huertes Guatemala
St* Pedro de la Laguna
Guatemala
Perquin
Guatemala
Perulapan, St. Bart.
— St. Martin
Guatemala
Guatemala
— St Pedro
Guatemala
Pespii^
Nicaragua
Petalcingo
Chiapa
Petapa, Coiicep. Town
Guatemala
— Santa Ines
Guatemala
— St. Miguel
Guatemala
Petatan
Guatemala
Petoa
Honduras
Pínula, Santa Catarina
Guatemala
— St. Miguel
Chiapa
— St. Pedro
Guatemala
PijHxiapa
Chiapa
Piraera
Honduras
Plátanos.
Chiapa
Pochuta
Chiapa
Polopo, St. Antonio
Guatemala
Dislfictt.
St. M^el
Soconusco
Tuxtla
St. Vicente
Quezaltenango
Ciudad Real
Tuxda
Ciudad Real
Atitan
Costa-Rica
Leon
St. Salvador
Ciudad Real
Atitan
St. Salvado
Tuxda
Chimaltenango
Guazacapan
Sacatepeques
Atitan
Chimaltenango
Chimaltenango
Ciudad Real
Sacatepeques
Atitan
St. Miguel
St. Salvador
St. Salvador
St. Salvador
Tegucigalpa
Ciudad Real
Sacatepeques
Sacatepeques
Sacatepeques
Gueguetenango
Comayagua
Sacatepeques
Ciudad Real
Chiquimula
Soconusco
Comayagua
Ciudad Real
Tuxtla
Atitan
Piaces.
Poloroz
Posoltega
PosolteguUla
Posta
Potrerillos
Puchuta^ ruined
Pueblo Abajo
Pueblo del Real
Pueblo Nuevo
Pueblo Nugvo
Pueblo Nuevo
Pueblo Nuevo
Pueblo Nuevo
Puringla
Pustla, St. Pedro
^uechula
Quelepa
Quesailica
Quesalcoatitan
Quesalguaque
Quezaltenango
' Espíritu Santo
— — St. Sebastian
Quezaltepeque
■ Concepción
— St. Francisco
Quiche^ Santa Cruz
Quircó
Babinal, St. Pablo
St. Raimundo
St. Ramon
Realejo Town
Reitoca
Remedios, N. S. de
511
Biihoprickf.
G uatemala
Nicaragua
Nicaragua
Honduras
Honduras
Guatemala
Honduras
Honduras
Nicaragua
Nicaragua
Chiapa
Chiapa
Nicaragua
Honduras
Guatemala
Chiapa
Guatemala
Honduras
Guatemala
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Guatemala
Nicaragua
Nicaragua
Honduras
Yucatan
N. Sta. de Bar. Guatemala
• -Sta. Mar.de los Guatemala
Retaluleu, St. Antonio Guatemala
" St. Catarina Guatemala
Sto. Domingo Guatemala
Sacacoyo ^ Guatemala
Sacapulas, St. Domingo Guatemala
Sacatecoluca Guatemala
Districts.
St. Miguel
Subtiava
Subtiava
Comayagua
T^ucigaipa
Atitaa
Tegucigalpa ^
Comayagua
Lieon
Nueva Segovia
Tuxtla
Tuxtla
Costa-Rica
Comayagua
Zonzonate
Tuxtla
St. Miguel
Comayagua
Zonzonate
Subtiava
Cap. of Dbtrict
Suchiltepeques
St. Salvador
St. Salvador
Chiquimula
Solóla
Costa-Rica
Verapaz
Sacaiepeques
Matagalpa
Cap. of District
Tegucigalpa
Cap. del Peten.
Sacatepeques
St. Miguel
SuchiUepepues
Suchiltepeques
Suchiltepeques
Santa Ana Grande
Gueguetenaiigo
St. Vicente .
Places
Sacatepeques
' St. Antonio
■ St. Juan
■ St. Lúeas
St Pedro
St. Pedro
St. Tiago
Saguayapa
Sahcajáy St. Luis
Salamá
St. Salvador City
Samayaque
Sambo
Santiago
Santiago
' Zamora
'■' Guistlan
Sapota
Sapotan
Sapotitlan^ St. Francisco
■ St. Felipe, ruined
— — St. Luis, ruined
— — St. Martin
Sause
Sayula
Sebaco
St. Sebastian
St. Sebastian
St, Sebastián
Sensembla
Sensenti
Sensimon
Sensuntepeque
Serquin
Siguacatepeqne
Sija, St. Cddos
Silca
Similator
Simojovel
Sinacamecayo, ruined
Sinacantan, St. Domingo
■ ' Santa Isabel
Sipacapa
Siquinalá
Soconusquillo
518
Biihoprickf.
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Guatemala
Cbiapa
Honduras
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Nicaragua
Chiapa
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Guatemala
Honduras
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Honduras
Guatemala
Honduras
Honduras
Cbiapa
Guatemala
Cbiapa
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Chiapa
Disttídts.
Quezaltenango
Sacatepeques
Sacatepeques
Sacatepeques
Quezaltenango
Sacate(>eques
St. Vicente
Totonitapan
Verapdz «
Cap. de la Prciv.
Suchiltepeques
Suchiltepeqltes
Sacatepeques
Comayagua
ChiiMaitenango
Ciudad Real
Comayagua
Santa Ana Grande
Sucbiltepeques
Suchiltepeques
Suchiltepeques
Suchiltdpeques
Leon
Tuxtia
Matagalpa
Bar.de la N.G.
Sacatepeques
Comayagua
St. Miguel .
Comayagua
St. Miguel
St. Vicente
Comayagna
Comayagua
Totonicapaii
Comayagua
Comayagua
Ciudad Heal
Escuintia
Ciudad Real
Guazacapan
Quezaltenango
Esquintia
Soconusco
515
Pkc«s*
Bbhoprickf.
Solóla
Guatemala
Soloma
Guatemala
Solosuchiapa '
Chiapa
Somotan
Guatemala
SomotíUo
Nicaragua
Sooaguera Town
Honduras
Sonsácate
Guatemala
Soyaló
Chiapa
Soyatitan
Chiapa
Subchiapa
Chiapa
Subtiava
Nicaragua
Suchiltepeques, St. Anton. Guatemala
Suchitoto
Guatemala
Sulaco
Honduras
Sumpango
Suñif
Guatemala
Guatemala
Sunuapa
Chiapa
Suyapango
Guatemala
Tacachico
Guatemala
Tacana
Guatemala
Tacpa
Guatemala
Tacuba
Guatemala
Tacuilula, St. Maria
Guatemala
Tacuscaico
Guatemala
Tajumulco
Guatemala
Talgua
Honduras
Taltique^ Santa Maria
Guatemala
Tamaju
Guatemala
Támara
Honduras
Tambla
Honduras
Tanuluaca •
Guatemala
Tapachula
Chiapa
' Tapalapan
Chiapa
Tapilula
Chiapa
Tatumbia
Honduras
Taxisco
Guatemala
Tecapa
Guatemala
Techanco
Guatemala
Tecoaco
Guatemala
Tecoluca
Guatemala
Tecpatlan
Chiapa
Tegucigalpa Town
Honduras
Tejutla, St. Tiago
Gi^temala
Std.Tomai^
Guatemala
Bistrictf.
Cap. de Prov.
Gueguetenango
Tuxtla
Acasaguastan
Leon
Comayagua
Zonzonate
Tuxtla
Ciudad Real
Tuxtla
Cap. of District
Suchiltepeques
St. Salvador
Comayagua
Sacatepeques
Quezaltenango
Tuxtla
St. Salvador
Santa Ana Grande
Quezaltenango
St. Salvador
Zonzonate
Guazaoapan
Zonzonate
Quezaltenango
Comayagua
Verapaz
Verapaz
Tegucigalpa
Comayagua
St. Salvador
Soconusco
Tuxtla
Tuxtla
Comayagua
Guazacapan
St. Miguel
St. Salvador
Escuintla
St. Vicente
Tuxtla
Cap. of District
Quezaltenai^go
St. Salvador
514
Placet.
Telica
Tembia abaxo
Teinbla arriba
Tenanibia
Tenango
Tenansingo
Tencoa
Tenejapa
Teopisca
Teotepeque
Teotitan
Tepanguateniala
Tepeaco
Tepecoyo
Tepesomoto
Tepesonte, St. Juan
St. Miguel
Teupaser\ti
Tespaneca
Terraba
Teustepet
Texaquang. St. Marc.
St. Tiago
-— ^ Sto. Tomas
Texar, St. Lorenzo
I i St. Miguel
St. Sebastian
Texiguat
Texincal
Texis, St. Estevan
Tezcuaco
Ticamaya
Tila
Tipitapa
Tircagua
Titiguapa Town
Tiuma
Tizapa
Tobosi
Tollman
Tómala
Tonacatepeque
Tonalá
Santo Toriblo
Torola
Biáioprícki.
Nicaragua
• Honduras
Honduras
. Honduras
Chiapa
Guatemala
.Honduras
Cbiapa
Chiapa
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
. Nicaragua
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Nicaragua
Nicaragua
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Chiapa
Nican^ua
Honduras
Guatemah
Honduras
Chiapa
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Honduras
Guatemala
Chiapa
Yucatan
.Guatemala
Dts^rktf.
Subtiava
Comayagua
Comayagua
Comayagua
Ciudad Heal
St. Salvador
Comayagua
Ciudad Real
Ciudad Real.
Santa Ana .Grande
Gueguetenango
Chimaltenango v
Guazacapaa
Santa Ana Grande
Nueva Segovia
St. Salvador
St. Salvador
Tegucigalpa
Leon
Costa-Rica,
Matagalpa
St. Salvador
Sr. Salvador
St. Salvador
Sacatepeqiies
Sacatepequcs
Sacatepeques
Tegucigalpa
St. Salvador
Santa Ana Grande
Guazacapan
Comayagua
Ciudad Real
Granada
Tegucigalpa
St. Vicente
Comayagua
Soconusco
Costa-Rica .
A titan
Comayagua
St. Salvador
Sojconusco ,
Peten
St Miguel
Places.
Totogalpa
Totolapa
Totonicapan
' St.
Christoval
St. Miguel
Truxillo City
Tucurrique
Tucuru
Túmbala
Tutuapa
Tuxtla
Tuxtla
Tuzantlan, ruined
Vacas, Valle de las
Vaquitepeque
Verapaz, St. Christoval
St. Vicente de Áustr.
Viejo, Pueblo del
Villa Hermosa
Villa Nuev. de St. José
Villa-seca, St. Andr.
Villa Vieia
Visitac. de Ntra. Sra.
lljaraz Town
IJluazapa
Uspantan
Usuhitan
Utatlan^ Santa Lucia
Xecul, St. Andres
Xeres de la Front. Town
Xicaro
Xilotepeque, St. Luis
St. Jacinto
' St. Martin
Xinaco, Santo Domingo
Xinotega
Xiquipilas
Xitotol
Yalaguina
Yamabal
Yambalanguira
Yarula
515
Bíshoprickt.
Nicaragua
Cbiapa
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Cbiapa
Guatemala
Cbiapa
Cbiapa
Cbiapa
Guatemala
Cbiapa
Guatemala
Guatemala
. Nicaragua
Nicaragua
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Nicaragua
Cbiapa
Nicaragua
Guatemala
Honduras
Honduras
Dístilcts.
Nueva Segovia
Ciudad Real
Totonicapan
Cap. de Prov.
Comayágua
Costa- Rica
Verapaz
Ciudad Real
Quezaltenango
Cap. of District
Soconusco
Soconusco
Sacatepeques
Tuxtla
Verapaz
Cap. of District
Realejo
Costa- Rica
Costa-Rica
Suchiltepeques
Costa-Rica
Atitan
Costa-Rica
St. Miguel
Gueguetenango
St. Miguel
Solóla
Totonicapan
Tegucigalpa ~
Granada
Cbiquimula
Cbimaltenango
Cbimaltenango
Sacatepeques
Matagaipa
Tuxtla
Tuxtla
Nueva Segovia
St. Miguel
Comayágua
Comayágua
516
Places.
Yaxalum
YayaguiU
Yayantique
Yofoaiquin
Yolula
Yoquoaiqutn
Yoro Town
Yusgare
Zacabab, St. Andres
Zacapa, St. Pablo
St, Pedro
Zacualpa^ el Esp. Santo
2^paluta
Zaragoza Town
Zibacá
Zintalapi^
Zitaláy St. Francisco
-^— St. Pedro
Zonzonate Town
Zozocoitenango
Zula^ St. Pedro City
Bkbopridu.
Chiapa
Cbiapa
Guatemala
Guatemala
Honduras
Guatemala
Honduras
Honduras
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Guatemala
Chiapa
Guatemala
Cbiapa
Cbiapa
Guatemala
Chiapa
Guatemala
Cbiapa
Honduras
DbtricU.
Ciudad Real
Ciudad Real
St. Miguel
St. Miguel
Comayagua
St. Miguel
Comayagua
T^ucigalpa
Solóla
Acasaguastan
'Acasaguastan
Solóla
Ciudad Real
Chimaltenango
Ciudad Real
Tuxtía
St. Salvador
Ciudad Real
Cap. de Prov.
Ciudad Real
Comayagua
AV
ALPHABETICAL INDEX,
AcasaguastlaD, district of
Amatique, aloaldn of
Anne, St. district of
Ants, warrior
Atitan, district of •
— — lake of
Balsam-coast and Balsam
Cartago, city of •
Ciiaocery royal, of Guatemala
Chapuliy a species of grasshopper very extraordinary
Chiapa^ province of «
ChimaltenangOy province of
Chiquimula, province of
district of
--wars of the Spaniards m
Ciudad Real, district of
* ■ '■ city of « n
-^ foundation of
Comayagua, district of
Contrerasy Rodrigo de, revolt of
Consulate, tribunal of the •
Copan, great circus of •
Corporation, or ayuntamiento of Guatemala
Costa-Rica, province of
Daice, port of
Esclavos, Rio de los, bridge of
Escuintla, province of •
— • district of • . .
- — ■■ , remarkable objects in the province df
P^9
4Q
310*
dl
241
8d
01
262
75
128
495
IS
91
43
47
300
51
15
213
142
56
129
73
8U
24
M
287
518
Page
Gracias & Dios, city of •••••• 53
Granada, city of • • • • • • . 65
Guatemala, kingdom of, in general • • • • g
old city of • •* • • • . 104
—new city of ...... 115
chronological account of • • • lis
foundation of, by Alvarado • . . 124
calamitous cTents of •. • • • 145
«i monarchy of, establbhed before the arrival
of the Spaniards 161
■ — kings of 164
never subject to the Mexican empire • • 300
' ■ — number of provinces in, at different periods • 204
city, different positions of, under the Spaniards 404
valley of, described • * . • 475
Guazacapan, district of 27
Gueguetenango, district of 79
Honduras, province of 49
discovery of, and foundation of the principal
cities, &c. 322
Indians, laws and government of * » • • 187
■ manners and customs of • • • • 192
of Cfaiapa, origin of • • • • • 207
Choi, Lacandon, and Mopan, reduction of • 275
Insurrection, almost general • • • • • 433
Istapa, bar of 237
Itsaes, reduction of 287
Kacbiquels, conquest of the capital of the • * • 396
Languages, native, variety and inconvenience of • 198
Leon, district of • • • ... -68
cky of ..♦•..• 63
Maguey-tree, description of 477
Mam Indians, conquered ...»•• 456
Matagalpa, district of • 70
Michael, St. district of .••••• 36
. . I . city of ••%••• 37
Mint, royal, of Guatemala • • • • • 1^30
Mixco, ancient city of • • • • • • 385
519
Mitco, fortress of, taken
"^ • cavern of •
Nicaragua» "province of ; . .
> — lake of ....
t discovery and settlement of
Nicoya, district of . • . .
Notices, succinct, of the natural and political history of
the principal places
Observations, preliminary
Patinamit, ancient city of
Penol, cave of • • • •
Peten, district of • • • • •
— — conquest of ....
Pipil Indians established on the coast of the Pacific
Polochie river, advantages of navigating •
Provinces on the sea-coast to the southward
Pacific, conquered
• insurgent, reduced
Quezaltenango, province of
Quichés, account of, before the conquest
- princesses of, the abduction of
— conquest of •
Realejo, district and port •
Roatan, island of •'
Sacatepeques; conqnest of
Salvador, St. province of
* ' — = district of •
city of • • • •
city, foundation of • .*
province, invasion of by Estete
province, objects worthy of notice in
Sinacam, king, captured
iSiqueclm], king, captured
Soconusco, district of
Springs^ periodical '
salt water
sour water
427
488
«
66
333
n
-^4
1
382
308
42
287
223
271
13
227
82
167
173
387
71
318
424
29
32
33
244
249
259
447
447
20
483
486
487
dio
*^ •
Page
Skelctiuis, gigantic . . . . ^
« 808
•' 143
S^bii province of • • • •
. ^
. -Cubtiava, district of • • • •
71
-Sucbiltepeques» province of • • •
21
TagnsBgalpa, reduction of • • •
S59
, — ' — '■ murder of missionanes in
• . 8^
.^. /* •'.<-•
63
i »- •>- ^ • • . • •
. ^8
Taxes, general administration of • •
141
* Tegucigalpa^ district of • • • * •
69
Tepnlcuat snake, with two beads
. 241
Thomas, St. port of
* 315
Tobacco revenue, directory of • • «
. 141
Tolagalpa, unconverted provinces of •
62
^ — ^ conquest of • • * * . «
• 346
•Maaw^lAW ^v^ «MSsAiAavAMAa •■«
- 355
77
' Totonicapan, province of • • • <
77
52
Truxillo, city of . • / .
* Tultecas, bistory of
• 173
Tyxtla, district of
19
Taendales, province of, reconquered «
• 221
University of St. Carlos de Guatemala
* 131
Uspantan, fortress of, taken • • * •
* 469
fJtatlan» ancient city of •
86
Verapaz, province of . • • ♦ .
38
^ 264
• 270
Vincent, St. district of
# 34
Vdlcan de Agua, description of .
a 489
Wars of tbe Spaniards in Cbiquimuki
. 300
Xdalub» ancient city of, captured by the Spanian
Is • 379
¡(«tigil Indians conquered • • - •
• 4X9
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