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UN1V
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CALIFORNIA
SANTA CRUZ
17
THE BOOK'LOVER'S
NEW SUNNYSIDE EDITION
This edition of the Complete Works of
Washington Irving is limited to Six Hundred
signed and numbered sets, of which this is
Number
<f;^r0fe2£^^
'
'SIDE EDIT!
ILLUSTR
rCc
ARTHUR RAC
FOC-DAF
A'PREDERICKS
C- A- PL ATT
R F-ZOGBAUM
F-S-CHU
Massacre of
THE
WRITINGS
OF
Tonquin's" Crew
Drawn by R. F. Zogbaum
JULIAN P
WILUAM HYDE
GH-EATON
E'WKEMBLE
HARRISON MIUXR
G-W-BARDWELL
JACQUES R£
AND
OTHERS
IRVING
NAM S
• -.a&M
ILLUSTRATED
BY
FRED'JS-COBURN
ARTHimRACKHAM
F-OC-DARLEY
HENRY$ANDHAM
A-FREDERICKS
ALLANBARRAUO
GA-PLATT
R-F-ZOCBAUM
F-S-CHURCH
GS-REINHART
JULIAN Rix
J-CARTERBEARD
WILLIAM HYDE
C-H-EATON
E-WKEMBLE
HARRISON MILLER
G-W-BARDWELL
JACQUESREICH
AND
OTHERS
NEW SUNNYSIDE EDITION
THE
WRITINGS
OF
WASHINGTON
IRVING
G P-PUTNANTS SONS
NEW YORK • LONDON
J\[ew Sunnyside Edition
Astoria
Or Anecdotes of an Enterprise
Beyond the Rocky Mountains
By
Washington Irving
Volume I
G. P. Putnam's Sons
New York London
Gbe Ifcnfcherboc&ec press
TCbe fmicfcerbocher preef, "Hew »or*
Hstoria
NEW SUNNYSIDE EDITION
Contents.
PAGE
INTRODUCTION xv
CHAP. I.— Objects of American Enterprise — Gold
Hunting and Fur Trading — Their Effect
on Colonization — Early French Canadian
Settlers— Ottawa and Huron Hunters — An
Indian Trading Camp — Coureurs des Bois
or Rangers of the Woods — Their Roaming
Life— Their Revels and Excesses — Licensed
Traders — Missionaries — Trading Posts — Prim-
itive French Canadian Merchant — His Estab-
lisnment and Dependants — British Canadian
Fur Merchant — Origin of the Northwest Com-
pany— Its Constitution — Its Internal Trade —
A Candidate for the Company — Privations in
the Wilderness — Northwest Clerks — North-
west Partners — A Northwest Nabob — Feudal
Notions in the Forests — The Lords of the
Lakes — Fort William — Its Parliamentary
Hall and Banqueting Room — Wassailing in
the Wilderness i
CHAP. II. — Rise of the Mackinaw Company — At-
tempt of the American Government to Coun-
teract Foreign Influence over the Indian
Contents
PAGE
Tribes— John Jacob Astor — His Birthplace —
His Arrival in the United States— What first
Turned his Attention to the Fur Trade — His
Character, Enterprises, and Success — His
Communications with the American Govern-
ment— Origin of the American Fur Company 20
CHAP. III. — Fur Trade in the Pacific — American
Coasting Voyages — Russian Enterprises —
Discovery of the Columbia River — Carver's
Project to Found a Settlement There — Mac-
kenzie's Expedition — Lewis and Clarke's
Journey across the Rocky Mountains — Mr.
Astor's Grand Commercial Scheme — His Cor-
respondence on the Subject with Mr. Jefferson
— His Negotiations with the Northwest Com-
pany— His Steps to carry his Scheme into
Effect , ,. . 29
CHAP. IV.— Two Expeditions Set on Foot— The
Tonquin and her Crew— Captain Thorn, his
Character — The Partners and Clerks — Can-
adian VoyageurS) their Habits, Employ-
ments, Dress, Character, Songs — Expedition
of a Canadian Boat and its Crew by Land and
Water — Arrival at New York — Preparations
for a Sea Voyage — Northwest Braggarts —
Underhand Precautions — Letter of Instruc-
tions . . » ; .>,../..« ,. . 48
CHAP. V.— Sailing of the Tonquin— A Rigid Com-
mander and Reckless Crew — Landsmen on
Shipboard — Fresh-water Sailors at Sea — Lub-
ber Nests — Ship Fare — A Labrador Veteran —
Literary Clerks — Curious Travellers — Robin-
Contents vii
PAGE
son Crusoe's Island — Quarter-deck Quarrels
— Falkland Islands — A Wild-goose Chase —
Port Bgmont — Bpitaph Hunting — Old Mor-
tality— Penguin Shooting — Sportsmen L,eft in
the Lurch— A Hard Pull— Further Alterca-
tions— Arrival at Owyhee .... 60
CHAP. VI. — Owyhee— Sandwich Islanders — Their
Nautical Talents — Tamaahmaah— His Navy —
His Negotiations — Views of Mr. Astor with
Respect to the Sandwich Islands — Karaka-
kooa — Royal Monopoly of Pork— Description
of the Islanders — Gayeties on Shore — Chroni-
cler of the Island — Place where Captain Cook
was Killed— John Young, a Nautical Governor
—His Story— Waititi— A Royal Residence—
A Royal Visit— Grand Ceremonials— Close
Dealing — A Royal Pork Merchant — Griev-
ances of a Matter-of-fact Man . . ' :V .77
CHAP. VII. — Departure from the Sandwich Isl-
ands — Misunderstandings — Miseries of a
Suspicious Man— Arrival at the Columbia —
Dangerous Service — Gloomy Apprehensions
— Bars and Breakers — Perils of the Ship —
Disasters of a Boat's Crew — Burial of a Sand-
wich Islander 97
CHAP. VIII.— Mouth of the Columbia— The Na-
tive Tribes— Their Fishing— Their Canoes-
Bold Navigators — Equestrian Indians and Pis-
catory Indians, Difference in their Physical
Organization— Search for a Trading Site-
Expedition of M'Dougal and David Stuart —
Comcomly, the One-eyed Chieftain— Influ-
viii Contents
PAGE
ence of Wealth in Savage Life — Slavery among
the Natives — An Aristocracy of Flatheads —
Hospitality among the Chinooks — Comcom-
ly's Daughter — Her Conquest . . . .no
CHAP IX. — Point George — Founding of Astoria
— Indian Visitors — Their Reception — The
Captain Taboos the Ship — Departure of the
Tonquin — Comments on the Conduct of Cap-
tain Thorn . ... . . . 120
CHAP. X. — Disquieting Rumors from the Interior
— Reconnoitring Party — Preparations for a
Trading Post — An Unexpected Arrival — A Spy
in the Camp — Expedition into the Interior —
Shores of the Columbia — Mount Coffin —
Indian Sepulchre — The Land of Spirits — Co-
lumbian Valley — Vancouver's Point — Falls
and Rapids— A Great Fishing Mart— The Vil-
lage of Wish-ram — Difference between Fish-
ing Indians and Hunting Indians — Effects
of Habits of Trade on the Indian Character —
Post Established at the Oakinagan . .127
CHAP. XI. — Alarm at Astoria — Rumor of Indian
Hostilities — Preparations for Defence — Tragi-
cal Fate of the Tonquin . . ^ f . 144
CHAP. XII. — Gloom at Astoria — An Ingenious
Stratagem — The Small-pox Chief— Launching
of the Dolly — An Arrival — A Canadian Trap-
per— A Freeman of the Forest — An Iroquois
Hunter — Winter on the Columbia — Festivities
of New Year 160
CHAP. XIII.— Expedition by Land— Wilson P.
Hunt— His Character— Donald M'Kenzie—
Contents
PAGE
Recruiting Service among the Voyageurs —
A Bark Canoe— Chapel of St. Anne— Votive
Offerings — Pious Carousals — A Ragged Regi-
ment— Mackinaw — Picture of a Trading Post
— Frolicking Voyageurs— Swells and Swag-
gerers— Indian Coxcombs — A Man of the
North— Jockeyship of Voyageurs — Inefficacy
of Gold — Weight of a Feather— Mr. Ramsay
Crooks — His Character — His Risks among the
Indians — His Warning concerning Sioux and
Blackfeet — Embarkation of Recruits — Parting
Scenes between Brothers, Cousins, Wives,
Sweethearts, and Pot Companions . . . 170
CHAP. XIV.— St. Louis— Its Situation— Motley
Population — French Creole Traders and their
Dependents — Missouri Fur Company — Mr.
Manuel Lisa — Mississippi Boatmen — Vagrant
Indians — Kentucky Hunters — Old French
Mansion — Fiddling — Billiards — Mr. Joseph
Miller — His Character — Recruits — Voyage up
the Missouri — Difficulties of the River —
Merits of Canadian Voyageurs — Arrival at the
Nodowa — Mr. Robert M'Lellan Joins the
Party — John Day, a Virginia Hunter — De-
scription of him — Mr. Hunt Returns to St.
Louis 184
CHAP. XV. — Opposition of the Missouri Fur Com-
pany— Blackfeet Indians — Pierre Dorion, a
Half-breed Interpreter — Old Dorion and his
Hybrid Progeny — Family Quarrels — Cross-
Purposes between Dorion and Lisa — Rene-
gadoes from Nodowa — Perplexities of a Com-
mander— Messrs. Bradbury and Nuttall Join
Contents
MM
the Expedition— Legal Embarrassments of
Pierre Dorion — Departure from St. Louis —
Conjugal Discipline of a Half-breed — Annual
Swelling of the Rivers — Daniel Boone, the
Patriarch of Kentucky— John Colter— His
Adventures among the Indians — Rumors of
Danger Ahead — Fort Osage — An Indian War-
feast — Troubles in the Dorion Family — Buf-
faloes and Turkey-buzzards . v.v -,..».. . 195
CHAP. XVI. — Return of Spring — Appearance of
Snakes — Great Flights of Wild Pigeons — Re-
newal of the Voyage — Night Encampments —
Platte River — Ceremonials on Passing it —
Signs of Indian War Parties — Magnificent
Prospect at Papillion Creek — Desertion of
Two Hunters — An Irruption into the Camp
of Indian Desperadoes — Village of the Omahas
— Anecdotes of the Tribe — Feudal Wars of
the Indians — Story of Blackbird, the Famous
Omaha Chief . . . ." .'.'.'. 217
CHAP. XVII.— Rumors of Danger from the Sioux
Tetons — Ruthless Character of those Savages
— Pirates of the Missouri — Their Affair with
Crooks and M'Lellan — A Trading Expedition
Broken up — M'Lellan's Vow of Vengeance
— Uneasiness in the Camp — Desertions — De-
parture from the Omaha Village — Meeting
with Jones and Carson, two Adventurous Trap-
pers— Scientific Pursuits of Messrs. Bradbury
and Nuttall — Zeal of a Botanist — Adventure
of Mr. Bradbury with a Ponca Indian — Expe-
dient of the Pocket Compass and Microscope
Contents
PACK
— A Messenger from Lisa — Motives for Press-
ing Forward . . -« .... i -. .' ..fc;. . . 237
CHAP. XVIII.— Camp Gossip — Deserters — Re-
cruits—Kentucky Hunters— A Veteran Wood-
man— Tidings of Mr. Henry — Danger from
the Blackfeet— Alteration of Plans — Scenery
of the River — Buffalo Roads — Iron Ore —
Country of the Sioux — A Land of Danger —
Apprehensions of the Voyageurs — Indian
Scouts — Threatened Hostilities— A Council
of War— An Array of Battle— A Parley— The
Pipe of Peace— Speech-making . . .252
CHAP. XIX.— The Great Bend of the Missouri-
Crooks and M'Lellan Meet with Two of their
Indian Opponents — Wanton Outrage of a
White Man the Cause of Indian Hostility-
Dangers and Precautions — An Indian War
Party — Dangerous Situation of Mr. Hunt — A
Friendly Encampment — Feasting and Dan-
cing— Approach of Manuel Lisa and his Party
— A Grim Meeting between Old Rivals —
Pierre Dorion in a Fury — A Burst of Chivalry, 268
CHAP. XX.— Features of the Wilderness— Herds
of Buffalo — Antelopes; their Varieties and
Habits— John Day — His Hunting Stratagem —
Interview with Three Arickaras — Negotiations
between the Rival Parties— The Left-handed
and the Big Man, two Arickara Chiefs —
Arickara Village — Its Inhabitants — Ceremo-
nials on Landing — A Council Lodge — Grand
Conference— Speech of Lisa — Negotiation for
Horses — Shrewd Suggestion of Gray Byes, an
Contents
PAGE
Arickara Chief — Encampment of the Trading
Parties 280
CHAP. XXI. — An Indian Horse Fair — Love of the
Indians for Horses — Scenes in the Arickara
Village — Indian Hospitality — Duties of Indian
Women — Game Habits of the Men — Their
Indolence — Love of Gossiping — Rumors of
Lurking Bnemies — Scouts — An Alarm — A
Sallying Forth — Indian Dogs — Return of a
Horse-stealing Party — An Indian Deputation
— Fresh Alarms — Return of a Successful War
Party — Dress of the Arickaras — Indian Toilet
— Triumphal Entry of the War Party — Meet-
ings of Relations and Friends — Indian Sensi-
bility— Meeting of a Wounded Warrior and
his Mother — Festivities and Lamentations . 295
CHAP. XXII.— Wilderness of the Far West— Great
American Desert — Parched Seasons — Black
Hills — Rocky Mountains — Wandering and
Predatory Hordes — Speculations on what
may be the Future Population — Apprehended
Dangers— A Plot to Desert— Rose, the Inter-
preter — His Sinister Character — Departure
from the Arickara Village . . . . 311
CHAP. XXIII. — Summer Weather of the Prairies
— Purity of the Atmosphere — Canadians on
the March — Sickness in the Camp — Big River
— Vulgar Nomenclature — Suggestions about
the Original Indian Names — Camp of Chey-
ennes — Trade for Horses— Character of the
Cheyennes — Their Horsemanship — Historical
Anecdotes of the Tribe . . . . . 320
Contents
PAGE
CHAP. XXIV.— New Distribution of Horses-
Secret Information of Treason in the Camp-
Rose, the Interpreter — His Perfidious Charac-
ter— His Plots — Anecdotes of the Crow Indians
— Notorious Horse Stealers — Some Account
of Rose— A Desperado of the Frontier . . 329
CHAP. XXV.— Substitute for Fuel on the Prairies
— Fossil Trees — Fierceness of the Buffaloes
when in Heat — Three Hunters Missing —
Signal Fires and Smokes — Uneasiness Con-
cerning the Lost Men — A Plan to Forestall a
Rogue — New Arrangement with Rose — Re-
turn of the Wanderers . . . . . 335
CHAP. XXVI.— The Black Mountains— Haunts of
Predatory Indians — Their Wild and Broken
Appearance — Superstitions concerning them
— Thunder Spirits— Singular Noises in the
Mountains — Secret Mines — Hidden Treasures
— Mountains in Labor — Scientific Explana-
tion— Impassable Defiles — Black-Tailed Deer
— The Bighorn or Ahsahta — Prospect from a
Lofty Height— Plain with Herds of Buffalo-
Distant Peaks of the Rocky Mountains —
Alarms in the Camp — Tracks of Grizzly Bears
— Dangerous Nature of this Animal — Adven-
tures of William Cannon and John Day with
Grizzly Bears 343
CHAP. XXVII.— Indian Trail— Rough Mountain
Travelling — Sufferings from Hunger and
Thirst— Powder River— Game in Abundance—
A Hunter's Paradise— Mountain Peak Seen at
a Great Distance— One of the Bighorn Chain
Contents
PAGB
— Rocky Mountains — Extent — Appearance —
Height — The Great American Desert — Vari-
ous Characteristics of the Mountains — Indian
Superstitions concerning them — Land of
Souls — Towns of the Free and Generous
Spirits — Happy Hunting Grounds . . . 355
CHAP. XXVIII.— Region of the Crow Indians-
Scouts on the Lookout — Visit from a Crew of
Hard Riders — A Crow Camp — Presents to the
Crow Chief — Bargaining — Crow Bullies —
Rose among his Indian Friends — Parting
with the Crows — Perplexities among the
Mountains — More of the Crows — Equestrian
Children — Search after Stragglers . . . 363
CHAP. XXIX.— Mountain Glens — Wandering
Band of Savages — Anecdotes of Shoshonies
and Flatheads — Root Diggers — Their Solitary
Lurking Habits — Gnomes of the Mountains
— Wind River — Scarcity of Food — Alteration
of Route— The Pilot Knobs or Tetons— Branch
of the Colorado — Hunting Camp . . . 373
CHAP. XXX.— A Plentiful Hunting Camp— Sho-
shonie Hunters — Hoback's River — Mad River
— Encampment Near the Pilot Knobs — A
Consultation — Preparations for a Perilous
Voyage . . . V . . . . 384
Illustrations
PAGE
MASSACRE OF THE " TONQUIN'S " CREW Frontispiece
Drawn by R. F. Zogbaum.
BONG'S PEAK, ROCKY MOUNTAINS ... 24
From a photograph.
DIAMOND HEAD, SANDWICH ISLANDS . . 78
Based on a photograph.
FIRST INTERIOR TRADING-POST OF THE EXPE-
DITION . . . , . . . . 142
Based on a sketch taken for a government survey.
ASTORIA IN l8ll 160
Based on a print in Gray's "History of Oregon."
MICHIWMACKINAC 174
Redrawn from an <^d steel engraving.
ST. LOUIS IN THE EARLY PART OF THE CENTURY 188
Redrawn from a picture by Catlin.
VIEW ON THE YELLOWSTONE RIVER . . .256
From a photograph.
INDIANS, HORSE-RACING 260
From an old print.
VOL. I. xv
•ffllustrations
PAGE
MANDAN VILLAGE AND BUFFALO-HIDE BOATS . 288
From an old engraving.
THE MOURNER 3™
Wood Cut. Drawn by F. S. Church.
THE THREE TETONS . , . v . . 388
Drawn by C. Harry Eaton.
Ifntrofcuction.
IN the course of occasional visits to Canada
many years since, I became intimately ac-
quainted with some of the principal part-
ners of the great Northwest Fur Company,
who at that time lived in genial style at Mont-
real, and kept almost open house for the stran-
ger. At their hospitable boards I occasionally
met with partners, and clerks, and hardy fur tra-
ders from the interior posts ; men whohadpassed
years remote from civilized society, among dis-
tant and savage tribes, and who had wonders
to recount of their wide and wild peregrina-
tions, their hunting exploits, and their perilous
adventures and hair-breadth escapes among the
Indians. I was at an age when imagination
lends its coloring to everything, and the stories
of these Sinbads of the wilderness made the life
of a trapper and fur trader perfect romance to
me. I even meditated at one time a visit to the
remote posts of the company in the boats which
annually ascended the lakes and rivers, being
xviii fntro&uction
thereto invited by one of the partners ; and I
have ever since regretted that I was prevented
by circumstances from carrying my intention
into effect. From those early impressions, the
grand enterprise of the great fur companies,
and the hazardous errantry of their associates
in the wild parts of our vast continent, have
always been themes of charmed interest to me ;
and I have felt anxious to get at the details
of their adventurous expeditions among the
savage tribes that peopled the depths of the
wilderness.
About two years ago, not long after my re-
turn from a tour upon the prairies of the far
West, I had a conversation with my friend, Mr.
John Jacob Astor, relative to that portion of our
country, and to the adventurous traders to
Santa Fe and the Columbia. This led him to
advert to a great enterprise set on foot and con-
ducted by him, between twenty and thirty
years since, having for its object to carry the
fur trade across the Rocky Mountains, and to
sweep the shores of the Pacific.
Finding that I took an interest in the sub-
ject, he expressed a regret that the true nature
and extent of his enterprise and its national
character and importance had never been un-
derstood, and a wish that I would undertake
to give an account of it. The suggestion struck
•ffntrofcuction
XIX
upon the chord of early associations already
vibrating in my mind. It occurred to me that
a work of this kind might comprise a variety
of those curious details, so interesting to me,
illustrative of the fur trade ; of its remote and
adventurous enterprises, and of the various
people, and tribes, and castes, and characters,
civilized and savage, affected by its operations.
The journals, and letters, also, of the adven-
turers by sea and land employed by Mr. Astor
in his comprehensive project, might throw light
upon portions of our country quite out of the
track of ordinary travel, and as yet but little
known. I therefore felt disposed to undertake
the task, provided documents of sufficient
extent and minuteness could be furnished to
me. All the papers relative to the enterprise
were accordingly submitted to my inspection.
Among them were journals and letters narra-
ting expeditions by sea, and journeys to and
fro across the Rocky Mountains by routes be-
fore untra veiled, together with documents illus-
trative of savage and colonial life on the borders
of the Pacific. With such material in hand, I
undertook the work. The trouble of rumma-
ging among business papers, and of collecting
and collating facts from amidst tedious and
commonplace details, was spared me by my
nephew, Pierre M. Irving, who acted as my
ITntroDuction
pioneer, and to whom I am greatly indebted
for smoothing my path and lightening my
labors.
As the journals, on which I chiefly depended,
had been kept by men of business, intent upon
the main object of the enterprise, and but little
versed in science, or curious about matters not
immediately bearing upon their interest, and as
they were written often in moments of fatigue
or hurry, amid the inconveniences of wild en-
campments, they were often meagre in their
details, furnishing hints to provoke rather than
narratives to satisfy inquiry. I have, there-
fore, availed myself occasionally of collateral
lights supplied by the published journals of
other travellers who have visited the scenes
described : such as Messrs. L,ewis and Clarke,
Bradbury, Breckenridge, Long, Franchere, and
Ross Cox, and make a general acknowledg-
ment of aid received from these quarters.
The work I here present to the public, is
necessarily of a rambling and somewhat dis-
jointed nature, comprising various expeditions
and adventures by land and sea. The facts,
however, will prove to be linked and banded
together by one grand scheme, devised and
conducted by a master spirit ; one set of charac-
ters, also, continues throughout, appearing
occasionally, though sometimes at long inter-
fntro&uctton
vals, and the whole enterprise winds up by a
regular catastrophe ; so that the work, with-
out any labored attempt at artificial construc-
tion, actually possesses much of that unity so
much sought after in works of fiction, and
considered so important to the interests of
every history.
Hstoria
ASTORIA.
Cbapter 1F.
Objects of American Enterprise — Gold Hunting and
Fur Trading— Early French Canadian Settlers—
Ottawa and Huron Hunters — An Indian Trading
Camp — Missionaries — Primitive French Canadian
Merchant — British Canadian Fur Merchant — Origin
of the Northwest Company — The Lords of the Lakes
— Fort William — Wassailing in the Wilderness.
TWO leading objects of commercial gain
have given birth to wide and daring
enterprise in the early history of the
Americas ; the precious metals of the
South, and the rich peltries of the North.
While the fiery and magnificent Spaniard, in-
flamed with the mania for gold, has extended
his discoveries and conquests over those bril-
liant countries scorched by the ardent sun of the
tropics, the adroit and buoyant Frenchman,
Bdtorta
and the cool and calculating Briton, have pur-
sued the less splendid, but no less lucrative,
traffic in furs amidst the hyperborean regions
of the Canadas, until they have advanced even
within the Arctic Circle.
These two pursuits have thus in a manner
been the pioneers and precursors of civilization.
Without pausing on the borders, they have
penetrated at once, in defiance of difficulties
and dangers, to the heart of savage countries ;
laying open the hidden secrets of the wilder-
ness ; leading the way to remote regions of
beauty and fertility that might have remained
unexplored for ages, and beckoning after them
the slow and pausing steps of agriculture and
civilization.
It was the fur trade, in fact, which gave
early sustenance and vitality to the great Cana-
dian provinces. Being destitute of the precious
metals, at that time the leading objects of Am-
erican enterprise, they were long neglected by
the parent country. The French adventurers,
however, who had settled on the banks of the
St. Lawrence, soon found that in the rich pel-
tries of the interior, they had sources of wealth
that might almost rival the mines of Mexico
and Peru. The Indians, as yet unacquainted
with the artificial value given to some descrip-
tions of furs, in civilized life, brought quanti-
fnmttng anfc ff ur Cra&fns 3
ties of the most precious kinds and bartered
them away for European trinkets and cheap
commodities. Immense profits were thus made
by the early traders, and the traffic was pur-
sued with avidity.
As the valuable furs soon became scarce in
the neighborhood of the settlements, the In-
dians of the vicinity were stimulated to take a
wider range in their hunting expeditions ; they
were generally accompanied on these expedi-
tions by some of the traders or their depend-
ents, who shared in the toils and perils of the
chase, and at the same time made themselves
acquainted with the best hunting and trapping
grounds, and with the remote tribes, whom
they encouraged to bring their peltries to the
settlements. In this way the trade augmented,
and was drawn from remote quarters to Mon-
treal. Every now and then a large body of
Ottawas, Hurons, and other tribes who hunted
the countries bordering on the great lakes,
would come down in a squadron of light
canoes, laden with beaver skins, and other
spoils of their year's hunting. The canoes
would be unladen, taken on shore, and their
contents disposed in order. A camp of birch
bark would be pitched outside of the town,
and a kind of primitive fair opened with that
grave ceremonial so dear to the Indians. An
Bstorfa
audience would be demanded of the governor-
general, who would hold the conference with
becoming state, seated in an elbow-chair, with
the Indians ranged in semi-circles before him,
seated on the ground, and silently smoking
their pipes. Speeches would be made, presents
exchanged, and the audience would break up
in universal good humor.
Now would ensue a brisk traffic with the
merchants, and all Montreal would be alive
with naked Indians running from shop to shop,
bargaining for arms, kettles, knives, axes,
blankets, bright-colored cloths, and other arti-
cles of use or fancy ; upon all which, says an
old French writer, the merchants were sure to
clear at least two hundred per cent. There
was no money used in this traffic, and, after a
time, all payment in spirituous liquors was
prohibited, in consequence of the frantic and
frightful excesses and bloody brawls which
they were apt to occasion.
Their wants and caprices being supplied,
they would take leave of the governor, strike
their tents, launch their canoes, and ply their
way up the Ottawa to the lakes.
A new and anomalous class of men gradu-
ally grew out of this trade. These were called
coureurs des bois, rangers of the woods ; origi-
nally men who had accompanied the Indians
Coureurs
in their hunting expeditions, and made them-
selves acquainted with remote tracts and tribes ;
and who now became, as it were, peddlers of
the wilderness. These men would set out
from Montreal with canoes well stocked with
goods, with arms and ammunition, and would
make their way up the mazy and wandering
rivers that interlace the vast forests of the
Canadas, coasting the most remote lakes, and
creating new wants and habitudes among the
natives. Sometimes they soj ourned for months
among them, assimilating to their tastes and
habits with the happy facility of Frenchmen,
adopting in some degree the Indian dress, and
not unfrequently taking to themselves Indian
wives.
Twelve, fifteen, eighteen months would often
elapse without any tidings of them, when they
would come sweeping their way down the
Ottawa in full glee, their canoes laden down
with packs of beaver skins. Now came their
turn for revelry and extravagance. "You
would be amazed, ' ' says an old writer already
quoted, ' * if you saw how lewd these peddlers
are when they return ; how they feast and
game, and how prodigal they are, not only in
their clothes, but upon their sweethearts.
Such of them as are married have the wisdom
to retire to their own houses ; but the bache-
Bstoria
lors act just as an East Indiaman and pirates
are wont to do ; for they lavish, eat, drink,
and play all away as long as the goods hold
out ; and when these are gone, they even sell
their embroidery, their lace, and their clothes.
This done, they are forced upon a new voyage
for subsistence." *
Many of these coureurs des bois became so
accustomed to the Indian mode of living, and
the perfect freedom of the wilderness, that they
lost all relish for civilization, and identified
themselves with the savages among whom
they dwelt, or could only be distinguished
from them by superior licentiousness. Their
conduct and example gradually corrupted the
natives, and impeded the works of the Catholic
missionaries, who were at this time prosecut-
ing their pious labors in the wilds of Canada.
To check these abuses, and to protect the fur
trade from various irregularities practised by
these loose adventurers, an order was issued
by the French government prohibiting all per-
sons, on pain of death, from trading into the
interior of the country without a license.
These licenses were granted in writing by the
governor-general, and at first were given only
to persons of respectability ; to gentlemen of
broken fortunes ; to old officers of the army
* La Hontan, v. i., let. 4.
who had families to provide for; or to their
widows. Each license permitted the fitting
out of two large canoes with merchandise for
the lakes, and no more than twenty-five licenses
were to be issued in one year. By degrees,
however, private licenses were also granted,
and the number rapidly increased. Those who
did not choose to fit out the expeditions them-
selves, were permitted to sell them to the mer-
chants ; these employed the coureurs des bois,
or rangers of the woods, to undertake the long
voyages on shares, and thus the abuses of the
old system were revived and continued.*
* The following are the terms on which these expe-
ditions were commonly undertaken. The merchant
holding the license would fit out the two canoes with
a thousand crowns' worth of goods, and put them
under the conduct of six coureurs des doist to whom
the goods were exchanged at the rate of fifteen per
cent, above the ready money price in the colony.
The coureurs des dots, in their turn, dealt so sharply
with the savages, that they generally returned, at the
end of a year or so, with four canoes well laden, so
as to insure a clear profit of seven hundred per cent.,
insomuch that the thousand crowns invested, pro-
duced eight thousand. Of this extravagant profit the
merchant had the lion's share. In the first place he
would set aside six hundred crowns for the cost of
his license, then a thousand crowns for the cost of
the original merchandise. This would leave six
thousand four hundred crowns, from which he would
8 Bstoria
The pious missionaries, employed by the
Roman Catholic Church to convert the Indians,
did everything in their power to counteract the
profligacy caused and propagated by these men
in the heart of the wilderness. The Catholic
chapel might often be seen planted beside the
trading house, and its spire surmounted by a
cross, towering from the midst of an Indian
village, on the banks of a river or a lake.
The missions had often a beneficial effect on
the simple sons of the forest, but had little
power over the renegades from civilization.
At length it was found necessary to establish
fortified posts at the confluence of the rivers
and the lakes for the protection of the trade,
and the restraint of these profligates of the
wilderness. The most important of these was
at Michilimackinac, situated at the strait of the
same name, which connects Lakes Huron and
Michigan. It became the great interior mart
and place of deposit, and some of the regular
merchants who prosecuted the trade in person,
under their licenses, formed establishments
here. This, too, was a rendezvous for the
take forty per cent., for bottomry, amounting to two
thousand five hundred and sixty crowns. The residue
would be equally divided among the six wood rangers,
who would thus receive little more than six hundred
crowns for all their toils and perils.
JSritteb ffut Grafters 9
rangers of the woods, as well those who came
up with goods from Montreal as those who
returned with peltries from the interior. Here
new expeditions were fitted out and took their
departure for Lake Michigan and the Missis-
sippi ; Lake Superior and the Northwest ; and
here the peltries brought in return were em-
barked for Montreal.
The French merchant at his trading post, in
these primitive days of Canada, was a kind of
commercial patriarch. With the lax habits
and easy familiarity of his race, he had a little
world of self-indulgence and misrule around
him. He had his clerks, canoe men, and
retainers of all kinds, who lived with him on
terms of perfect sociability, always calling him
by his Christian name ; he had his harem of
Indian beauties, and his troop of half-breed
children ; nor was there ever wanting a lout-
ing train of Indians, hanging about the estab-
lishment, eating and drinking at his expense
in the intervals of their hunting expeditions.
The Canadian traders, for a long time, had
troublesome competitors in the British mer-
chants of New York, who inveigled the Indian
hunters and the coureurs des bois to their posts,
and traded with them on more favorable terms.
A still more formidable opposition was organ-
ized in the Hudson Bay Company, chartered
io Sstorta
by Charles II., in 1670, with the exclusive
privilege of establishing trading houses on the
shores of that bay and its tributary rivers ; a
privilege which they have maintained to the
present day. Between this British company
and the French merchants of Canada, feuds
and contests arose about alleged infringements
of territorial limits, and acts of violence and
bloodshed occurred between their agents.
In 1762, the French lost possession of Can-
ada, and the trade fell principally into the
hands of British subjects. For a time, how-
ever, it shrunk within narrow limits. The old
coureurs des bois were broken up and dispersed,
or, where they could be met with, were slow to
accustom themselves to the habits and manners
of their British employers. They missed the
freedom, indulgence, and familiarity of the old
French trading houses, and did not relish the
sober exactness, reserve, and method of the
new-comers. The British traders, too, were
ignorant of the country, and distrustful of the
natives. They had reason to be so. The
treacherous and bloody affairs of Detroit and
Michilimackinac showed them the lurking hos-
tility cherished by the savages, who had too
long been taught by the French to regard them
as enemies.
It was not until the year 1766, that the trade
JBrtttsb U*ottbwest Company u
regained its old channels ; but it was then
pursued with much avidity and emulation by
individual merchants, and soon transcended
its former bounds. Expeditions were fitted
out by various persons from Montreal and
Michilimackinac, and rivalships and jealousies
of course ensued. The trade was injured by
their artifices to outbid and undermine each
other ; the Indians were debauched by the
sale of spirituous liquors, which had been pro-
hibited under the French rule. Scenes of
drunkenness, brutality, and brawl were the
consequence, in the Indian villages and around
the trading houses ; while bloody feuds took
place between rival trading parties when they
happened to encounter each other in the law-
less depths of the wilderness.
To put an end to these sordid and ruinous
contentions, several of the principal merchants
of Montreal entered into a partnership in the
winter of 1783, which was augmented by
amalgamation with a rival company in 1787.
Thus was created the famous " Northwest
Company," which for a time held a lordly
sway over the wintry lakes and boundless
forests of the Canadas, almost equal to that
of the East India Company over the voluptuous,
climes and magnificent realms of the Orient.
The company consisted of twenty-three
12 Bstoria
shareholders, or partners, but held in its em-
ploy about two thousand persons as clerks,
guides, interpreters, and voyageurs, or boat-
men. These were distributed at various trad-
ing posts, established far and wide on the
interior lakes and rivers, at immense distances
from each other, and in the heart of trackless
countries and savage tribes.
Several of the partners resided in Montreal
and Quebec, to manage the main concerns of
the company. These were called agents, and
were personages of great weight and import-
ance ; the other partners took their stations at
the interior posts, where they remained through-
out the winter, to superintend the intercourse
with the various tribes of Indians. They were
thence called wintering partners.
The goods destined for this wide and wander-
ing traffic were put up at the warehouses of
the company in Montreal, and conveyed in
batteaux, or boats and canoes, up the river
Attawa, or Ottowa, which falls into the St.
Lawrence near Montreal, and by other rivers
and portages, to Lake Nipising, Lake Huron,
Lake Superior, and thence, by several chains
of great and small lakes, to Lake Winnipeg,
Lake Athabasca, and the Great Slave Lake.
This singular and beautiful system of internal
seas, which renders an immense region of
JBritteb flortbwest Company 13
wilderness so accessible to the frail bark of the
Indian or the trader, was studded by the re-
mote posts of the company, where they carried
on their traffic with the surrounding tribes.
The company, as we have shown, was at
first a spontaneous association of merchants;
but, after it had been regularly organized, ad-
mission into it became extremely difficult. A
candidate had to enter, as it were, * ' before
the mast," to undergo a long probation, and
to rise slowly by his merits and services. He
began, at an early age, as a clerk, and served
an apprenticeship of seven years, for which he
received one hundred pounds sterling, was
maintained at the expense of the company,
and furnished with suitable clothing and equip-
ments. His probation was generally passed
at the interior trading posts ; removed for years
from civilized society, leading a life almost as
wild and precarious as the savages around him ;
exposed to the severities of a northern winter,
often suffering from a scarcity of food, and
sometimes destitute for a long time of both
bread and salt. When his apprenticeship had
expired, he received a salary according to his
deserts, varying from eighty to one hundred and
sixty pounds sterling, and was now eligible to
the great object of his ambition, a partnership
in the company ; though years might yet
14 Bstoria
elapse before lie attained to that enviable
station.
Most of the clerks were young men of good
families, from the Highlands of Scotland,
characterized by the perseverance, thrift, and
fidelity of their country, and fitted by their
native hardihood to encounter the rigorous
climate of the North, and to endure the trials
and privations of their lot ; though it must not
be concealed that the constitutions of many of
them became impaired by the hardships of the
wilderness, and their stomachs injured by occa-
sional famishing, and especially by the want
of bread and salt. Now and then, at an in-
terval of years, they were permitted to come
down on a visit to the establishment at Mon-
treal, to recruit their health, and to have a
taste of civilized life ; and these were brilliant
spots in their existence.
As to the principal partners, or agents, who
resided in Montreal and Quebec, they formed a
kind of commercial aristocracy, living in lordly
and hospitable style. Their early associations
when clerks at the remote trading posts, and
the pleasures, dangers, adventures, and mis-
haps which they had shared together in their
wild wood life, had linked them heartily to
each other, so that they formed a convivial
fraternity. Few travellers that have visited
IRortbwest partners 15
Canada some thirty years since, in the days of
the M'Tavishes, the M'Gillivrays, the M'Ken-
zies, the Frobishers, and the other magnates
of the Northwest, when the company was in
all its glory, but must remember the round of
feasting and revelry kept up among these hy-
perborean nabobs.
Sometimes one or two partners, recently
from the interior posts, would make their
appearance in New York, in the course of a
tour of pleasure and curiosity. On these occa-
sions there was always a degree of magnifi-
cence of the purse about them, and a peculiar
propensity to expenditure at the goldsmith's
and jeweller's for rings, chains, brooches, neck-
laces; jewelled watches, and other rich trinkets,
partly for their own wear, partly for presents
to their female acquaintances ; a gorgeous prodi-
gality, such as was often to be noticed in former
times in Southern planters and West India Cre-
oles, when flush with the profits of their plan-
tations.
To behold the Northwest Company in all its
state and grandeur, however, it was necessary
to witness an annual gathering at the great
interior place of conference established at Fort
William, near what is called the Grand Port-
age, on I/ake Superior. Here two or three of
the leading partners from Montreal proceeded
16
once a year to meet the partners from the vari-
ous trading posts of the wilderness, to discuss
the affairs of the company during the preceding
year, and to arrange plans for the future.
On these occasions might be seen the change
since the unceremonious times of the old
French traders ; now the aristocratical char-
acter of the Briton shone forth magnificently,
or rather the feudal spirit of the Highlander.
Every partner who had charge of an interior
post, and a score of retainers at his command,
felt like the chieftain of a Highland clan, and
was almost as important in the eyes of his de-
pendants as of himself. To him a visit to the
grand conference at Fort William was a most
important event, and he repaired there as to a
meeting of parliament.
The partners from Montreal, however, were
the lords of the ascendant ; coming from the
midst of luxuries and ostentatious life, they
quite eclipsed their compeers from the woods,
whose forms and faces had been battered and
hardened by hard living and hard service, and
whose garments and equipments were all the
worse for wear. Indeed, the partners from
below considered the whole dignity of the com-
pany as represented in their persons, and con-
ducted themselves in suitable style. They
ascended the rivers in great state, like sov-
Sbe (Slorfes ot ffort "00111113111 17
ereigns making a progress ; or rather like
Highland chieftains navigating their subject
lakes. They were wrapped in rich furs, their
huge canoes freighted with every convenience
and luxury, and manned by Canadian voy-
ageurs, as obedient as Highland clansmen.
They carried up with them cooks and bakers,
together with delicacies of every kind, and
abundance of choice wines for the banquets
which attended this great convocation. Happy
were they, too, if they could meet with some
distinguished stranger ; above all, some titled
member of the British nobility, to accompany
them on this stately occasion, and grace their
high solemnities.
Fort William, the scene of this important
annual meeting, was a considerable village on
the banks of Lake Superior. Here, in an im-
mense wooden building, was the great council
hall, as also the banqueting chamber, decorated
with Indian arms and accoutrements, and the
trophies of the fur trade. The house swarmed
at this time with traders and voyageurs, some
from Montreal, bound to the interior posts ;
some from the interior posts, bound to Mon-
treal. The councils were held in great state,
for every member felt as if sitting in parlia-
ment, and every retainer and dependant looked
up to the assemblage with awe, as to the House
i8 Bstoria
of Lords. There was a vast deal of solemn
deliberation, and hard Scottish reasoning, with
an occasional swell of pompous declamation.
These grave and weighty councils were alter-
nated by huge feasts and revels, like some
of the old feasts described in Highland cas-
tles. The tables in the great banqueting room
groaned under the weight of game of all kinds ;
of venison from the woods, and fish from the
lakes, with hunters' delicacies, such as buffa-
loes' tongues and beavers' tails, and luxuries
from Montreal, all served up by experienced
cooks brought for the purpose. There was no
stint of generous wine, for it was a hard-drink-
ing period, a time of loyal toasts, and baccha-
nalian songs, and brimming bumpers.
While the chiefs thus revelled in hall, and
made the rafters resound with bursts of loyalty
and old Scottish songs, chanted in voices
cracked and sharpened by the northern blast,
their merriment was echoed and prolonged
by a mongrel legion of retainers, Canadian
voyageurs, half-breeds, Indian hunters, and
vagabond hangers-on who feasted sumptuously
without on the crumbs that fell from their table,
and made the welkin ring with old French dit-
ties, mingled with Indian yelps and yellings.
Such was the Northwest Company in its
powerful and prosperous days, when it held a
Sbe UorOs of tbe 3Lafces 19
kind of feudal sway over a vast domain of lake
and forest. We are dwelling too long, perhaps,
upon these individual pictures, endeared to us
by the associations of early life, when as yet a
stripling youth, we have sat at the hospitable
boards of the "mighty Northwesters," the
lords of the ascendant at Montreal, and gazed
with wondering and inexperienced eye at the
baronial wassailing, and listened with aston-
ished ear to their tales of hardships and adven-
tures. It is one object of our task, however,
to present scenes of the rough life of the wilder-
ness, and we are tempted to fix these few
memorials of a transient state of things fast
passing into oblivion ; — for the feudal state of
Fort William is at an end ; its council chamber
is silent and deserted ; its banquet hall no
longer echoes to the burst of loyalty, or the
"auld world " ditty ; the lords of the lakes
and forests have passed away ; and the hospi-
table magnates of Montreal — where are they ?
Cbapter If.
Rise of the Mackinaw Company — Attempt of the
American Government to Counteract Foreign Influ-
ence over the Indian Tribes— John Jacob Astor —
His Birth place — His Arrival in the United States —
His Character, Enterprises, and Success— Origin of
the American Fur Company.
THE success of the Northwest Company
stimulated further enterprise in this
opening and apparently boundless field
of profit. The traffic of that company
lay principally in the high northern latitudes,
while there were immense regions to the south
and west, known to abound with valuable pel-
tries ; but which, as yet, had been but little
explored by the fur trader. A new association
of British merchants was therefore formed to
prosecute the trade in this direction. The
chief factory was established at the old em-
porium of Michilimackinac, from which place
the association took its name, and was com-
monly called the Mackinaw Company.
Cbe flbacfctnaw Company 21
While the Northwesters continued to push
their enterprises into the hyperborean regions
from their stronghold at Fort William, and to
hold almost sovereign sway over the tribes of
the upper lakes and rivers, the Mackinaw
Company sent forth their light perogues and
barks, by Green Bay, Fox River, and the
Wisconsin, to that great artery of the West,
the Mississippi ; and down that stream to all
its tributary rivers. In this way they hoped
soon to monopolize the trade with all the tribes
on the southern and western waters, and of
those vast tracts comprised in ancient Louisi-
ana.
The government of the United States began
to view with a wary eye the growing influence
thus acquired by combinations of foreigners,
over the aboriginal tribes inhabiting its terri-
tories, and endeavored to counteract it. For
this purpose, as early as 1796, the government
sent out agents to establish rival trading
houses on the frontier, so as to supply the
wants of the Indians, to link their interests and
feelings with those of the people of the United
States, and to divert this important branch of
trade into national channels.
The expedition, however, was unsuccessful,
as most commercial expedients are prone to
be, where the dull patronage of government is
22 Batoria
counted upon to outvie the keen activity of
private enterprise. What government failed
to effect, however, with all its patronage and
all its agents, was at length brought about by
the enterprise and perseverance of a single
merchant, one of its adopted citizens ; and this
brings us to speak of the individual whose
enterprise is the especial subject of the follow-
ing pages ; a man whose name and character
are worthy of being enrolled in the history of
commerce, as illustrating its noblest aims and
soundest maxims. A few brief anecdotes of
his early life, and of the circumstances which
first determined him to the branch of commerce
of which we are treating, cannot be but inter-
esting.
John Jacob Astor, the individual in question,
was born in the honest little German village of
Waldorf, near Heidelberg, on the banks of the
Rhine. He was brought up in the simplicity
of rural life, but, while yet a mere stripling,
left his home, and launched himself amid the
busy scenes of London, having had, from his
very boyhood, a singular presentiment that he
would ultimately arrive at great fortune.
At the close of the American Revolution he
was still in London, and scarce on the thres-
hold of active life. An elder brother had been
for some few years resident in the United
5acob Bstor 23
States, and Mr. Astor determined to follow
him, and to seek his fortunes in the rising
country. Investing a small sum which he had
amassed since leaving his native village, in
merchandise suited to the American market,
he embarked, in the month of November, 1783,
in a ship bound to Baltimore, and arrived in
Hampton Roads in the month of January.
The winter was extremely severe, and the
ship, with many others, was detained by the
ice in and about Chesapeake Bay for nearly
three months.
During this period, the passengers of the
various ships used occasionally to go on shore,
and mingle sociably together. In this way
Mr. Astor became acquainted with a country-
man of his, a furrier by trade. Having had a
previous impression that this might be a lucra-
tive trade in the New World, he made many
inquiries of his new acquaintance on the sub-
ject, who cheerfully gave him all the informa-
tion in his power as to the quality and value
of different furs, and the mode of carrying on
the traffic. He subsequently accompanied him
to New York, and, by his advice, Mr. Astor
was induced to invest the proceeds of his mer-
chandise in furs. With these he sailed from
New York to London in 1784, disposed of
them advantageously, made himself further
24 Bstoria
acquainted with the course of the trade, and
returned the same year to New York, with a
view to settle in the United States.
He now devoted himself to the branch of
commerce with which he had thus casually
been made acquainted. He began his career,
of course, on the narrowest scale ; but he
brought to the task a persevering industry, rigid
economy, and strict integrity. To these were
added an aspiring spirit that always looked
upwards ; a genius bold, fertile, and expan-
sive ; a sagacity quick to grasp and convert
every circumstance to its advantage, and a
singular and never-wavering confidence of
signal success.*
As yet, trade in peltries was not organized
in the United States, and could not be said to
form a regular line of business. Furs and skins
were casually collected by the country traders
in their dealings with the Indians or the white
* An instance of this buoyant confidence, which no
doubt aided to produce the success it anticipated, we
have from the lips of Mr. A. himself. While yet al-
most a stranger in the city, and in very narrow circum-
stances, he passed by where a row of houses had just
been erected in Broadway, and which, from the supe-
rior style of their architecture, were the talk and boast
of the city. "I '11 build, one day or other, a greater
house than any of these, in this very street," said he
to himself, He has accomplished his prediction.
. York, with a
i -.es.
to the branch of
e had thus casually
made aoqti < lie began his career,
iie narrowest, scale; but he
k a persevering industry, rigid
econ; ntegrity. To these were
added aii aspiring spirit that always looked
fertile, and expan-
and convert
Long's Peak, Rocky Mountains
From a photograph
•- WAS not organized
.said to
•
nlidence, which no
ss it anticipated, we
himself. While yet al-
anger in f d in very narrow circum-
stances, he passed by where a row of houses had just
ted in Broadway, and which, from the supe-
of their architecture, were the talk and boast
'I '11 build, one day or other, a greater
bouse than any of these, in this very street," s
He has accomphsht-d his p
Dealings In GanaDa 25
hunters, but the main supply was derived from
Canada. As Mr. Astor's means increased, he
made annual visits to Montreal, where he pur-
chased furs from the houses at that place en-
gaged in the trade. These he shipped from
Canada to London, no direct trade being al-
lowed from that colony to any but the mother
country.
In 1794 or '95, a treaty with Great Britain
removed the restrictions imposed upon the trade
with the colonies, and opened a direct commer-
cial intercourse between Canada and the United
States. Mr. Astor was in London at the time,
and immediately made a contract with the
agents of the Northwest Company for furs.
He was now enabled to import them from
Montreal into the United States for the home
supply, and to be shipped thence to different
parts of Europe, as well as to China, which has
ever been the best market for the richest and
finest kinds of peltry.
The treaty in question provided, likewise,
that the military posts occupied by the British
within the territorial limits of the United States
should be surrendered. Accordingly, Oswego,
Niagara, Detroit, Michilimackinac, and other
posts on the American side of the lakes, were
given up. An opening was thus made for the
American merchant to trade on the confines of
26 Bstoria
Canada, and within the territories of the United
States. After an interval of some years, about
1807, Mr. Astor embarked in this trade on his
own account. His capital and resources had
by this time greatly augmented, and he had
risen from small beginnings to take his place
among the first merchants and financiers of the
country. His genius had ever been in advance
of his circumstances, prompting him to new
and wide fields of enterprise beyond the scope
of ordinary merchants. With all his enterprise
and resources, however, he soon found the
power and influence of the Michilimackinac
(or Mackinaw) Company too great for him,
having engrossed most of the trade within the
American borders.
A plan had to be devised to enable him to
enter into successful competition. He was
aware of the wish of the American government,
already stated, that the fur trade within its
boundaries should be in the hands of American
citizens, and of the ineffectual measures it had
taken to accomplish that object. He now of-
fered, if aided and protected by government,
to turn the whole of that trade into American
channels. He was invited to unfold his plans
to government, and they were warmly approved,
though the executive could give no direct aid.
Thus countenanced, however, he obtained,
Soutbwest Company 27
in 1809, a charter from the legislature of the
State of New York, incorporating a company
under the name of ' ' The American Fur Com-
pany," with a capital of one million of dollars,
with the privilege of increasing it to two mil-
lions. The capital was furnished by himself —
he, in fact, constituted the company ; for,
though he had a board of directors, they were
merely nominal ; the whole business was con-
ducted on his plans and with his resources, but
he preferred to do so under the imposing and
formidable aspect of a corporation, rather than
in his individual name, and his policy was
sagacious and effective.
As the Mackinaw Company still continued
its rivalry, and as the fur trade would not ad-
vantageously admit of competition, he made a
new arrangement in 181 1, by which, in conjunc-
tion with certain partners of the Northwest
Company, and other persons engaged in the
fur trade, he bought out the Mackinaw Com-
pany, and merged that and the American Fur
Company into a new association, to be called
the ' ' Southwest Company. ' ' This he likewise
did with the privity and approbation of the
American government.
By this arrangement Mr. Astor became pro-
prietor of one half of the Indian establishments
and goods which the Mackinaw Company had
28
Bstoria
within the territory of the Indian country in
the United States, and it was understood that
the whole was to be surrendered into his hands
at the expiration of five years, on condition that
the American Company would not trade within
the British dominions.
Unluckily, the war which broke out in 1812
between Great Britain and the United States
suspended the association ; and, after the war,
it was entirely dissolved ; Congress having
passed a law prohibiting the British fur traders
from prosecuting their enterprises within the
territories of the United States.
Cbapter
Fur Trade in the Pacific— American Coasting Voyages
— Russian Enterprises — Discovery of the Columbia
River — Carver's Project to Found a Settlement There
— Mackenzie's Expedition — Lewis and Clarke's
Journey across the Rocky Mountains — Mr, Astor's
Grand Commercial Scheme.
WHILE the various companies we have
noticed were pushing their enter-
prises far and wide in the wilds of
Canada, and along the course of the
great western waters, other adventurers, intent
on the same objects, were traversing the watery
wastes of the Pacific and skirting the north-
west coast of America. The last voyage of
that renowned but unfortunate discoverer, Cap-
tain Cook, had made known the vast quantities
of the sea- otter to be found along that coast,
and the immense prices to be obtained for its
fur in China. It was as if a new gold coast
had been discovered. Individuals from vari-
29
30 Bstoria
ous countries dashed into this lucrative traffic,
so that in the year 1792, there were twenty -one
vessels under different flags, plying along the
coast and trading with the natives. The greater
part of them were American, and owned by Bos-
ton merchants. They generally remained on
the coast and about the adjacent seas, for two
years, carrying on as wandering and adventur-
ous a commerce on the water as did the traders
and trappers on land. Their trade extended
along the whole coast from California to the
high northern latitudes. They would run in
near shore, anchor, and wait for the natives to
come off in their canoes with peltries. The
trade exhausted at one place, they would up
anchor and off to another. In this way they
would consume the summer, and when autumn
came on, would run down to the Sandwich Isl-
ands and winter in some friendly and plentiful
harbor. In the following year they would re-
sume their summer trade, commencing at Cali-
fornia and proceeding north : and, having in
the course of the two seasons collected a suffi-
cient cargo of peltries, would make the best of
their way to China. Here they would sell their
furs, take in teas, nankeens, and other merchan-
dise, and return to Boston, after an absence of
two or three years.
The people, however, who entered most ex-
•Russian Enterprises 31
tensively and effectively in the fur trade of the
Pacific, were the Russians. Instead of making
casual voyages, in transient ships, they estab-
lished regular trading houses in the high lati-
tudes, along the northwest coast of America,
and upon the chain of the Aleutian Islands be-
tween Kamtschatka and the promontory of
Alaska.
To promote and protect these enterprises, a
company was incorporated by the Russian gov-
ernment with exclusive privileges, and a capi-
tal of two hundred and sixty thousand pounds
sterling ; and the sovereignty of that part of
the American continent, along the coast of
which the posts had been established, was
claimed by the Russian crown on the plea that
the land had been discovered and occupied by
its subjects.
As China was the grand mart for the furs
collected in these quarters, the Russians had
the advantage over their competitors in the
trade. The latter had to take their peltries to
Canton, which, however, was a mere receiving
mart, from whence they had to be distributed
over the interior of the empire and sent to the
northern parts, where there was the chief con-
sumption. The Russians, on the contrary,
carried their furs, by a shorter voyage, directly
to the northern parts of the Chinese empire ;
32 Bstorfa
thus being able to afford them in the market
without the additional cost of internal trans-
portation.
We come now to the immediate field of opera-
tion of the great enterprise we have undertaken
to illustrate.
Among the American ships which traded
along the northwest coast in 1792, was the
Columbia, Captain Gray, of Boston. In the
course of her voyage she discovered the mouth
of a large river in lat. 46° 19' north. Entering
it with some difficulty, on account of sand-bars
and breakers, she came to anchor in a spacious
bay. A boat was well manned, and sent on
shore to a village on the beach, but all the in-
habitants fled excepting the aged and infirm.
The kind manner in which these were treated,
and the presents given to them, gradually lured
back the others, and a friendly intercourse took
place. They had never seen a ship or a white
man. When they had first descried the Colum-
bia, they had supposed it a floating island ; then
some monster of the deep ; but when they saw
the boat putting for shore with human beings
on board, they considered them cannibals sent
by the Great Spirit to ravage the country and
devour the inhabitants. Captain Gray did not
ascend the river farther than the bay in ques-
tion, which continues to bear his name. After
tbe Columbia 33
putting to sea, he fell in with the celebrated
discoverer, Vancouver, and informed him of
his discovery, furnishing him with a chart
which he had made of the river. Vancouver
visited the river, and his lieutenant, Broughton,
explored it by the aid of Captain Gray's chart ;
ascending it upwards of one hundred miles,
until within view of a snowy mountain, to
which he gave the name of Mount Hood, which
it still retains.
The existence of this river, however, was
known long before the visits of Gray and Van-
couver, but the information concerning it was
vague and indefinite, being gathered from the
reports of Indians. It was spoken of by trav-
ellers as the Oregon, and as the Great River
of the West. A Spanish ship is said to have
been wrecked at the mouth, several of the
crew of which lived for some time among the
natives. The Cohimbia, however, is believed
to be the first ship that made a regular dis-
covery and anchored within its waters, and it
has since generally borne the name of that
vessel.
As early as 1763, shortly after the acquisi-
tion of the Canadas by Great Britain, Captain
Jonathan Carver, who had been in the British
provincial army, projected a journey across
the continent between the forty-third and forty-
VOL. I.— 3
34 B0torta
sixth degrees of northern latitude to the shores
of the Pacific Ocean. His objects were to ascer-
tain the breadth of the continent at its broad-
est part, and to determine on some place on
the shores of the Pacific, where government
might establish a post to facilitate the discovery
of a northwest passage, or a communication
between Hudson's Bay and the Pacific Ocean.
This place he presumed would be somewhere
about the Straits of Annian, at which point he
supposed the Oregon disembogued itself. It
was his opinion, also, that a settlement on this
extremity of America would disclose new
sources of trade, promote many useful discov-
eries, and open a more direct communication
with China and the English settlements in the
East Indies, than that by the Cape of Good
Hope or the Straits of Magellan.* This enter-
prising and intrepid traveller was twice baffled
in individual efforts to accomplish this great
journey. In 1774 he was joined in the scheme
by Richard Whitworth, a member of Parlia-
ment, and a man of wealth. Their enterprise
was projected on a broad and bold plan. They
were to take with them fifty or sixty men, ar-
tificers and mariners. With these they were
to make their way up one of the branches of
the Missouri, explore the mountains for the
* Carver's Travels^ Introd., b. Hi. Philad., 1796.
d!bachen3ie'0 Discoveries 35
source of the Oregon, or the River of the
West, and sail down that river to its supposed
exit, near the Straits of Annian. Here they
were to erect a fort, and build the vessels neces-
sary to carry their discoveries by sea into effect.
Their plan had the sanction of the British gov-
ernment, and grants and other requisites were
nearly completed, when the breaking out of
the American Revolution once more defeated
the undertaking.*
The expedition of Sir Alexander Mackenzie
in 1793, across the continent to the Pacific
Ocean, which he reached in lat. 52° 20' 48",
again suggested the possibility of linking
together the trade of both sides of the conti-
nent. In lat. 52° 30' he had descended a river
for some distance which flowed towards the
south, and was called by the natives Tacoutche
Tesse, and which he erroneously supposed to
be the Columbia. It was afterwards ascertained
that it emptied itself in lat. 49°, whereas the
mouth of the Columbia is about three degrees
farther south.
When Mackenzie some years subsequently
published an account of his expeditions, he
suggested the policy of opening an intercourse
between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, and
forming regular establishments through the
* Carver's Travels, p. 360. Philad., 1796.
36 Sstorfa
interior and at both extremes, as well as along
the coasts and islands. By this means, he
observed the entire command of the fur trade
of North America might be obtained from lat.
48° north, to the pole, excepting that portion
held by the Russians, for as to the American
adventurers who had hitherto enjoyed the traf-
fic along the northwest coast, they would in-
stantly disappear, he added, before a well
regulated trade.
A scheme of this kind, however, was too
vast and hazardous for individual enterprise ;
it could only be undertaken by a company
under the sanction and protection of a govern-
ment ; and as there might be a clashing of
claims between the Hudson's Bay and North-
west Company, the one holding by right of
charter, the other by right of possession, he
proposed that the two companies should coalesce
in this great undertaking. The long cherished
jealousies of these two companies, however,
were too deep and strong to allow them to lis-
ten to such counsel.
In the meantime the attention of the Ameri-
can government was attracted to the subject,
and the memorable expedition under Messrs.
Lewis and Clarke, fitted out. These gentle-
men, in 1804, accomplished the enterprise
which had been projected by Carver and Whit-
. Bator's project 37
worth, in 1774. They ascended the Missouri,
passed through the stupendous gates of the
Rocky Mountains, hitherto unknown to white
men ; discovered and explored the upper waters
of the Columbia, and followed that river down
to its mouth, where their countryman, Gray,
had anchored about twelve years previously.
Here they passed the winter, and returned
across the mountains in the following spring.
The reports published by them of their expe-
dition, demonstrated the practicability of estab-
lishing a line of communication across the
continent, from the Atlantic to the Pacific
Ocean.
It was then that the idea presented itself to
the mind of Mr. Astor, of grasping with his
individual hand this great enterprise, which
for years had been dubiously yet desirously
contemplated by powerful associations and
maternal governments. For some time he re-
volved the idea in his mind, gradually extend-
ing and maturing his plans as his means of
executing them augmented. The main feature
of his scheme was to establish a line of trading
posts along the Missouri and the Columbia, to
the mouth of the latter, where was to be
founded the chief trading house or mart. In-
ferior posts would be established in the interior,
and on all the tributary streams of the Colum-
38 Bstoria
bia, to trade with the Indians ; these posts
would draw their supplies from the main es-
tablishment, and bring to it the peltries they
collected. Coasting craft would be built and
fitted out, also, at the mouth of the Columbia,
to trade, at favorable seasons, all along the
northwest coast, and return with the proceeds
of their voyages, to this place of deposit. Thus
all the Indian trade, both of the interior and
the coast, would converge to this point, and
thence derive its sustenance.
A ship was to be sent annually from New
York to this main establishment with reinforce-
ments and supplies, and with merchandise
suited to the trade. It would take on board
the furs collected during the preceding year,
carry them to Canton, invest the proceeds in
the rich merchandise of China, and return thus
freighted to New York.
As, in extending the American trade along
the coast to the northward, it might be brought
into the vicinity of the Russian Fur Company,
and produce a hostile rivalry, it was part of the
plan of Mr. Astor to conciliate the good-will
of that company by the most amicable and
beneficial arrangements. The Russian estab-
lishment was chiefly dependent for its supplies
upon transient trading vessels from the United
States. These vessels, however, were often of
. Bstor's project 39
more harm than advantage. Being owned by
private adventurers, or casual voyagers, who
cared only for present profit, and had no inter-
est in the permanent prosperity of the trade,
they were reckless in their dealings with the
natives, and made no scruple of supplying them
with fire-arms. In this way several fierce
tribes in the vicinity of the Russian posts, or
within the range of their trading excursions,
were furnished with deadly means of warfare,
and rendered troublesome and dangerous
neighbors.
The Russian government had made represen-
tations to that of the United States of these
malpractices on the part of its citizens, and
urged to have this traffic in arms prohibited ;
but, as it did not infringe any municipal law,
our government could not interfere. Yet, still
it regarded with solicitude a traffic which, if
persisted in, might give offence to Russia, at
that time almost the only friendly power to us.
In this dilemma the government had applied to
Mr. Astor, as one conversant in this branch of
trade, for information that might point out a.
way to remedy the evil. This circumstance
had suggested to him the idea of supplying the
Russian establishment regularly by means of
the annual ship that should visit the settlement
at the mouth of the Columbia (or Oregon) ; by
40 Bstoria
this means the casual trading vessels would be
excluded from those parts of the coast where
their malpractices were so injurious to the
Russians.
Such is a brief outline of the enterprise pro-
jected by Mr. Astor, but which continually
expanded in his mind. Indeed, it is due to him
to say that he was not actuated by mere mo-
tives of individual profit. He was already
wealthy bej^ond the ordinary desires of man,
but he now aspired to that honorable fame
which is awarded to men of similar scope of
mind, who by their great commercial enter-
prises have enriched nations, peopled wilder-
nesses, and extended the bounds of empire.
He considered his projected establishment at
the mouth of the Columbia as the emporium
to an immense commerce ; as a colony that
would form the germ of a wide civilization ;
that would, in fact, carry the American popu-
lation across the Rocky Mountains and spread
it along the shores of the Pacific, as it already
animated the shores of the Atlantic.
As Mr. Astor, by the magnitude of his com-
mercial and financial relations, and the vigor
and scope of his self-taught mind, had elevated
himself into the consideration of government
and the communion and correspondence with
leading statesmen, he, at an early period, com-
Xetter of flbc. Jefferson 41
municated his schemes to President Jefferson,
soliciting the countenance of government.
How highly they were esteemed by that emi-
nent man, we may judge by the following pas-
sage, written by him some time afterwards to
Mr. Astor :
" I remember well having invited your proposition
on this subject,* and encouraged it with the assurance
of every facility and protection which the government
could properly afford. I considered, as a great public
acquisition, the commencement of a settlement on
that point of the western coast of America, and looked
forward with gratification to the time when its de-
scendants should have spread themselves through the
whole length of that coast, covering it with free and
independent Americans, unconnected with us but by
the ties of blood and interest, and enjoying like us
the rights of self-government."
The cabinet joined with Mr. Jefferson in
warm approbation of the plan, and held out
assurance of every protection that could, con-
sistently with general policy, be afforded.
Mr. Astor now prepared to carry his scheme
* On this point Mr. Jefferson's memory was in er-
ror. The proposition alluded to was the one, already
mentioned, for the establishment of an American Fur
Company in the Atlantic States. The great enterprise
beyond the mountains, that was to sweep the shores
of the Pacific, originated in the mind of Mr. Astor,
and was proposed by him to the government.
42 Bstorta
into prompt execution. He had some compe-
tition, however, to apprehend and guard
against. The Northwest Company, acting
feebly and partially upon the suggestions of
its former agent, Sir Alexander Mackenzie,
had pushed one or two advanced trading posts
across the Rocky Mountains, into a tract of
country visited by that enterprising traveller,
and since named New Caledonia. This tract
lay about two degrees north of the Columbia,
and intervened between the territories of the
United States and those of Russia. Its length
was about five hundred and fifty miles, and its
breadth, from the mountains to the Pacific,
from three hundred to three hundred and fifty
geographical miles.
Should the Northwest Company persist in
extending their trade in that quarter, their
competition might be of serious detriment to
the plans of Mr. Astor. It is true they would
contend with him to a vast disadvantage, from
the checks and restrictions to which they were
subjected. They were straitened on one side
by the rivalry of the Hudson's Bay Company ;
then they had no good post on the Pacific
where they could receive supplies by sea for
their establishments beyond the mountains ;
nor, if they had one, could they ship their
furs thence to China, that great mart for pel-
Disadvantages of IRivalrg 43
tries ; the Chinese trade being comprised in
the monopoly of the East India Company.
Their posts beyond the mountains had to be
supplied in yearly expeditions, like caravans,
from Montreal, and the furs conveyed back in
the same way, by long, precarious, and expen-
sive routes, across the continent. Mr. Astor,
on the contrary, would be able to supply his
proposed establishment at the mouth of the Co-
lumbia by sea, and to ship the furs collected
there directly to China, so as to undersell the
Northwest Company in the great Chinese
market.
Still, the competition of two rival companies
west of the Rocky Mountains could not but
prove detrimental to both, and fraught with
those evils, both to the trade and to the In-
dians, that had attended similar rivalries in
the Canadas. To prevent any contest of the
kind, therefore, he made known his plan to
the agents of the Northwest Company, and
proposed to interest them, to the extent of one
third, in the trade thus to be opened. Some
correspondence and negotiation ensued. The
company were aware of the advantages which
would be possessed by Mr. Astor should he be
able to carry his scheme into effect ; but they
anticipated a monopoly of the trade beyond
the mountains by their establishments in New
44 Sstoria
Caledonia, and were loth to share it with an
individual who had already proved a formid-
able competitor in the Atlantic trade. They
hoped, too, by a timely move, to secure the
mouth of the Columbia before Mr. Astor would
be able to put his plans into operation ; and,
that key to the internal trade once in their
possession, the whole country would be at their
command. After some negotiation and delay,
therefore, they declined the proposition that
had been made to them, but subsequently
despatched a party for the mouth of the Co-
lumbia, to establish a post there before any
expedition sent out by Mr. Astor might arrive.
In the meantime Mr. Astor, finding his over-
tures rejected, proceeded fearlessly to execute
his enterprise in face of the whole power of the
Northwest Company. His main establishment
once planted at the mouth of the Columbia, he
looked with confidence to ultimate success.
Being able to reinforce and supply it amply by
sea, he would push his interior posts in every
direction up the rivers and along the coast ;
supplying the natives at a lower rate, and thus
gradually obliging the Northwest Company to
give up the competition, relinquish New Cale-
donia, and retire to the other side of the moun-
tains. He would then have possession of the
trade, not merely of the Columbia and its trib-
preparations for tbe Enterprise 45
utaries, but of the regions farther north, quite
to the Russian possessions. Such was a part
of his brilliant and comprehensive plan.
He now proceeded, with all diligence, to pro-
cure proper agents and coadjutors, habituated
to the Indian trade and to the life of the wil-
derness. Among the clerks of the Northwest
Company were several of great capacity and
experience, who had served out their proba-
tionary terms, but who, either through lack of
interest and influence, or a want of vacancies,
had not been promoted. They were conse-
quently much dissatisfied, and ready for any
employment in which their talents and acquire-
ments might be turned to better account.
Mr. Astor made his overtures to several of
these persons, and three of them entered into
his views. One of these, Mr. Alexander
M'Kay, had accompanied Sir Alexander Mac-
Kenzie in both of his expeditions to the north-
west coast of America in 1789 and 1793. The
other two were Duncan M'Dougal and Donald
M'Kenzie. To these were subsequently added
Mr. Wilson Price Hunt, of New Jersey. As
this gentleman was a native-born citizen of the
United States, a person of great probity and
worth, he was selected by Mr. Astor to be his
chief agent, and to represent him in the con-
templated establishment.
Bstorta
On the 23d of June, 1810, articles of agree-
ment were entered into between Mr. Astor and
those four gentlemen, acting for themselves
and for the several persons who had already
agreed to become, or should thereafter become,
associated under the firm of ' ' The Pacific Fur
Company. ' '
According to these articles, Mr. Astor was
to be at the head of the company, and to man-
age its affairs in New York. He was to furnish
vessels, goods, provisions, arms, ammunition,
and all other requisites for the enterprise at
first cost and charges, provided that they did
not, at any time, involve an advance of more
than four hundred thousand dollars.
The stock of the company was to be divided
into a hundred equal shares, with the profits
accruing thereon. Fifty shares were to be at
the disposition of Mr. Astor, and the other
fifty to be divided among the partners and their
associates.
Mr. Astor was to have the privilege of intro-
ducing other persons into the connection, as
partners, two of whom, at least, should be con-
versant with the Indian trade, and none of
them entitled to more than three shares.
A general meeting of the company was to be
held annually at Columbia River, for the in-
vestigation and regulation of its affairs ; at
Cbe pacific jfut Gompang 47
which absent members might be represented,
and might vote by proxy under certain specified
conditions.
The association, if successful, was to con-
tinue for twenty years ; but the parties had
full power to abandon and dissolve it within
the first five years, should it be found un-
profitable. For this term Mr. Astor covenanted
to bear all the loss that might be incurred ;
after which it was borne by all the partners, in
proportion to their respective shares.
The parties of the second part were to ex-
ecute faithfully such duties as might be as-
signed to them by a majority of the company
on the northwest coast, and to repair to such
place or places as the majority might direct.
An agent, appointed for the term of five
years, was to reside at the principal establish-
ment of the northwest coast, and Wilson Price
Hunt was the one chosen for the first term.
Should the interests of the concern at any
time require his absence, a person was to be
appointed, in general meeting, to take his place.
Such were the leading conditions of this
association ; we shall now proceed to relate the
various hardy and eventful expeditions, by sea
and land, to which it gave rise.
Cbapter 11D.
Two Expeditions Set on Foot — The Tonquin and her
Crew — Captain Thorn, his Character — The Partners
and Clerks — Expedition of a Canadian Boat and its
Crew by Land and Water — Arrival at New York —
Preparations for a Sea Voyage — Letter of Instruc-
tions.
IN prosecuting his great scheme of com-
merce and colonization, two expeditions
were devised by Mr. Astor, one by sea,
the other by land. The former was to
carry out the people, stores, ammunition, and
merchandise, requisite for establishing a forti-
fied trading post at the mouth of Columbia
River. The latter, conducted by Mr. Hunt,
was to proceed up the Missouri, and across the
Rocky Mountains, to the same point ; explor-
ing a line of communication across the conti-
nent, and noting the places where interior
trading posts might be established. The
expedition by sea is the one which comes
first under consideration.
48
Members of tbe Bjpe&itfon 49
A fine ship was provided called the Tonquin,
of two hundred and ninety tons burden, mount-
ing ten guns, with a crew of twenty men.
She carried an assortment of merchandise for
trading with the natives of the sea-board and
of the interior, together with the frame of a
schooner, to be employed in the coasting trade.
Seeds were also provided for the cultivation of
the soil, and nothing was neglected for the
necessary supply of the establishment. The
command of the ship was intrusted to Jonathan
Thorn, of New York, a lieutenant in the United
States navy, on leave of absence. He was a
man of courage and firmness, who had dis-
tinguished himself in our Tripolitan war, and,
from being accustomed to naval discipline, was
considered by Mr. Astor as well fitted to take
charge of an expedition of the kind. Four of
the partners were to embark in the ship, namely
Messrs. M'Kay, M'Dougal, David Stuart, and
his nephew, Robert Stuart. Mr. M'Dougal
was empowered by Mr. Astor to act as his
proxy in the absence of Mr. Hunt, to vote for
him and in his name, on any question that
might come before any meeting of the persons
interested in the voyage.
Beside the partners, there were twelve clerks
to go out in the ship, several of them natives
of Canada, who had some experience in the
VOL. 1.— 4
50 Bstoria
Indian trade. They were bound to the service
of the company for five years, at the rate of one
hundred dollars a year, payable at the expira-
tion of the term, and an annual equipment of
clothing to the amount of forty dollars. In
case of ill conduct they were liable to forfeit
their wages and be dismissed ; but, should
they acquit themselves well, the confident ex-
pectation was held out to them of promotion,
and partnership. Their interests were thus,
to some extent, identified with those of the
company.
Several artisans were likewise to sail in the
ship, for the supply of the colony ; but the
most peculiar and characteristic part of this
motley embarkation consisted of thirteen Can-
adian voyageurs^ who had enlisted for five
3^ears. As this class of functionaries will con-
tinually recur in the course of the following
narrations, and as they form one of those dis-
tinct and strongly marked castes or orders of
people, springing up in this vast continent out
of geographical circumstances, or the varied
pursuits, habitudes, and origins of its popula-
tion, we shall sketch a few of their character-
istics for the information of the reader.
The voyageurs form a kind of fraternity in
the Canadas, like the arrieros, or carriers, of
Spain, and, like them, are employed in long
Canadian IDogaaeuts 51
internal expeditions of travel and traffic : with
this difference, that the arrieros travel by land,
the voyageurs by water ; the former with mules
and horses, the latter with batteaux and canoes.
The voyageurs may be said to have sprung up
out of the fur trade, having originally been
employed by the early French merchants in
their trading expeditions through the labyrinth
of rivers and lakes of the boundless interior.
They were coeval with the coureurs des bois, or
rangers of the woods, already noticed, and, like
them, in the intervals of their long, arduous,
and laborious expeditions, were prone to pass
their time in idleness and revelry about the
trading posts or settlements ; squandering their
hard earnings in heedless conviviality, and
rivalling their neighbors, the Indians, in indo-
lent indulgence and an imprudent disregard of
the morrow.
When Canada passed under British domina-
tion, and the old French trading houses were
broken up, the voyageurs, like the coureurs des
bois, were for a time disheartened and discon-
solate, and with difficulty could reconcile them-
selves to the service of the new-comers, so dif-
ferent in habits, manners, and language from
their former employers. By degrees, however,
they became accustomed to the change, and at
length came to consider the British fur traders,
52 Bstoria
and especially the members of the Northwest
Company, as the legitimate lords of creation.
The dress of these people is generally half
civilized, half savage. They wear a capot or
surcoat, made of a blanket, a striped cotton
shirt, cloth trowsers, or leathern leggins, moc-
casins of deer-skin, and a belt of variegated
worsted, from which are suspended the knife,
tobacco-pouch, and other implements. Their
language is of the same piebald character, be-
ing a French patois embroidered with Indian
and Knglish words and phrases.
The lives of the voyageurs are passed in wild
and extensive rovings, in the service of indi-
viduals, but more especially of the fur traders.
They are generally of French descent, and in-
herit much of the gayety and lightness of heart
of their ancestors, being full of anecdote and
song, and ever ready for the dance. They inher-
it, too, a fund of civility and complaisance ; and,
instead of that hardness and grossness which
men in laborious life are apt to indulge towards
each other, they are mutually obliging and
accommodating ; interchanging kind offices,
yielding each other assistance and comfort in
every emergency, and using the familiar appel-
lations of ' ' cousin ' ' and ' ' brother ' ' when
there is in fact no relationship. Their natural
good-will is probably heightened by a commu-
Characteristics of tbe DoBageurs 53
nity of adventure and hardship in their precari-
ous and wandering life.
No men are more submissive to their leaders
and employers, more capable of enduring hard-
ship, or more good-humored under privations.
Never are they so happy as when on long and
rough expeditions, toiling up rivers or coasting
lakes ; encamping at night on the borders,
gossiping round their fires, and bivouacking in
the open air. They are dextrous boatmen, vig-
orous and adroit with the oar and paddle, and
will row from morning until night without a
murmur. The steersman often sings an old
traditionary French song, with some regular
burden in which they all join, keeping time
with their oars ; if at any time they flag in
spirits or relax in exertion, it is but necessary to
strike up a song of the kind to put them all in
fresh spirits and activity. The Canadian waters
are vocal with these little French chansons,
that have been echoed from mouth to mouth
and transmitted from father to son, from the
earliest days of the colony ; and it has a pleas-
ing effect, in a still golden summer evening, to
see a batteau gliding across the bosom of a lake
and dipping its oars to the cadence of these
quaint old ditties, or sweeping along in full
chorus on a bright sunny morning, down the
transparent current of one of the Canada rivers.
54 Sstorla
But we were talking of things that are fast
fading away. The march of mechanical in-
vention is driving everything poetical before
it. The steamboats, which are fast dispelling
the wildness and romance of our lakes and
rivers, and aiding to subdue the world into
commonplace, are proving as fatal to the
race of the Canadian voyageurs as they have
been to that of the boatmen of the Missis-
sippi. Their glory is departed. They are no
longer the lords of our internal seas, and the
great navigators of the wilderness. Some of
them may still occasionally be seen coasting
the lower lakes with their frail barks, and
pitching their camps and lighting their fires
upon the shores ; but their range is fast
contracting to those remote waters and shal-
low and obstructed rivers unvisited by the
steamboat. In the course of years they will
gradually disappear ; their songs will die away
like the echoes they once awakened, and the
Canadian voyageurs will become a forgotten
race, or remembered, like their associates, the
Indians, among the poetical images of past
times, and as themes for local and romantic
associations.
An instance of the buoyant temperament and
the professional pride of these people was fur-
nished in the gay and braggart style in which
Boating an& Singing 55
they arrived at New York to join the enterprise.
They were determined to regale and astonish
the people of the " States " with the sight of
a Canadian boat and a Canadian crew. They
accordingly fitted up a large but light bark
canoe, such as is used in the fur trade ; trans-
ported it in a wagon from the banks of the St.
Lawrence to the shores of L,ake Champlain ;
traversed the lake in it, from end to end ;
hoisted it again in a wagon and wheeled it off
to Lansingburg, and there launched it upon the
waters of the Hudson. Down this river they
plied their course merrily on a fine summer's
day, making its banks resound for the first time
with their old French boat songs ; passing by
the villages with whoop and halloo, so as to
make the honest Dutch farmers mistake them
for a crew of savages. In this way they swept,
in full song and with regular flourish of the
paddle, round New York, in a still summer
evening, to the wonder and admiration of its
inhabitants, who had never before witnessed
on their waters, a nautical apparition of the
kind.
Such was the variegated band of adventurers
about to embark in the Tonquin on this ardu-
ous and doubtful enterprise. While yet in port
and on dry land, in the bustle of preparation
and the excitement of novelty, all was sun-
56 Bstorta
shine and promise. The Canadians, especially,
who, with their constitutional vivacity, have a
considerable dash of the gascon, were buoyant
and boastful, and great braggarts as to the
future ; while all those who had been in the
service of the Northwest Company, and en-
gaged in the Indian trade, plumed themselves
upon their hardihood and their capacity to en-
dure privations. If Mr. Astor ventured to
hint at the difficulties they might have to en-
counter, they treated them with scorn. They
were " northwesters " ; men seasoned to hard-
ships, who cared for neither wind nor weather.
They could live hard, lie hard, sleep hard, eat
dogs ! — in a word, they were ready to do and
suffer anything for the good of the enterprise.
With all this profession of zeal and devotion,
Mr. Astor was not over-confident of the sta-
bility and firm faith of these mercurial beings.
He had received information, also, that an
armed brig from Halifax, probably at the
instigation of the Northwest Company, was
hovering on the coast, watching for the Ton-
quin, with the purpose of impressing the
Canadians on board of her, as British subjects,
and thus interrupting the voyage. It was a
time of doubt and anxiety, when the relations
between the United States and Great Britain
were daily assuming a more precarious aspect
Bbuse of Confidence 57
and verging towards that war which shortly
ensued. As a precautionary measure, therefore,
he required that the voyageurs, as they were
about to enter into the service of an American
association, and to reside within the limits of
the United States, should take the oaths of
naturalization as American citizens. To this
they readily agreed, and shortly afterwards
assured him that they had actually done so.
It was not until after they had sailed that he
discovered that they had entirely deceived him
in the matter.
The confidence of Mr. Astor was abused in
another quarter. Two of the partners, both
of them Scotchmen, and recently in the service
of the Northwest Company, had misgivings as
to an enterprise which might clash with the
interests and establishments protected by the
British flag. They privately waited upon the
British minister, Mr. Jackson, then in New
York, laid open to him the whole scheme of
Mr. Astor, though intrusted to them in confi-
dence, and dependent, in a great measure, upon
secrecy at the outset for its success, and in-
quired whether they, as British subjects, could
lawfully engage in it. The reply satisfied their
scruples, while the information they imparted
excited the surprise and admiration of Mr.
Jackson, that a private individual should have
58 Bstoria
conceived and set on foot at his own risk and
expense so great an enterprise.
This step on the part of those gentlemen was
not known to Mr. Astor until some time after-
wards, or it might have modified the trust and
confidence reposed in them.
To guard against any interruption to the
voyage by the armed brig, said to be off the
harbor, Mr. Astor applied to Commodore Rod-
gers, at that time commanding at New York,
to give the Tonquin safe convoy off the coast.
The commodore having received from a high
official source assurance of the deep interest
which the government took in the enterprise,
sent directions to Captain Hull, at that time
cruising off the harbor, in the frigate Constitu-
tion, to afford the Tonquin the required pro-
tection when she should put to sea.
Before the day of embarkation, Mr. Astor
addressed a letter of instruction to the four
partners who were to sail in the ship. In this
he enjoined them, in the most earnest manner,
to cultivate harmony and unanimity, and re-
commended that all differences of opinions on
points connected with the objects and interests
of the voyage should be discussed by the
whole, and decided by a majority of votes.
He, moreover, gave them especial caution as
to their conduct on arriving at their destined
parting BDmonitions 59
port ; exhorting them to be careful to make a
favorable impression upon the wild people
among whom their lot and the fortunes of the
enterprise would be cast. ' ' If you find them
kind," said he, " as I hope you will, be so to
them. If otherwise, act with caution and for-
bearance, and convince them that you come as
friends."
With the same anxious forethought he wrote
a letter of instructions to Captain Thorn, in
which he urged the strictest attention to the
health of himself and his crew, and to the pro-
motion of good-humor and harmony on board
his ship. ' ' To prevent any misunderstand-
ing," added he, " will require your particular
good management. ' ' His letter closed with an
injunction of wariness in his intercourse with
the natives, a subject on which Mr. Astor was
justly sensible he could not be too earnest.
"I must recommend you," said he, " to be
particularly careful on the coast, and not to
rely too much on the friendly disposition of
the natives. All accidents which have as yet
happened there, arose from too much confidence
in the Indians."
The reader will bear these instructions in
mind, as events will prove their wisdom and
importance, and the disasters which ensued in
consequence of the neglect of them.
Cbapter ID.
Sailing of the Tonquin — A Rigid Commander and a
Reckless Crew — Landsmen on Shipboard — A Lab-
rador Veteran — Literary Clerks— Curious Travellers
— Robinson Crusoe's Island — Falkland Islands —
Port Bgmont — Old Mortality — Penguin Shooting —
Arrival at Owyhee.
ON the eighth of September, 1810, the
Tonquin put to sea, where she was
soon joined by the frigate Constitu-
tion. The wind was fresh and fair
from the southwest, and the ship was soon out
of sight of land and free from the apprehended
danger of interruption. The frigate, therefore,
gave her "God speed," and left her to her
course.
The harmony so earnestly enjoined by Mr.
Astor on this heterogeneous crew, and which
had been so confidently promised in the buoy-
ant moments of preparation, was doomed to
meet with a check at the very outset.
60
Commander 61
Captain Thorn was an honest, straightfor-
ward, but somewhat dry and dictatorial com-
mander, who, having been nurtured in the
system and discipline of a ship of war, and in
a sacred opinion of the supremacy of the quar-
ter-deck, was disposed to be absolute lord and
master on board of his ship. He appears,
moreover, to have had no great opinion, from
the first, of the persons embarked with him.
He had stood by with surly contempt while
they vaunted so bravely to Mr. Astor of all
they could do and all they could undergo ;
how they could face all weathers, put up with
all kinds of fare, and even eat dogs with a
relish, when no better food was to be had. He
had set them down as a set of landlubbers and
braggadocios, and was disposed to treat them
accordingly. Mr. Astor was, in his eyes, his
only real employer, being the father of the en-
terprise, who furnished all funds and bore all
losses. The others were mere agents and sub-
ordinates, who lived at his expense. He evi-
dently had but a narrow idea of the scope and
nature of the enterprise, limiting his views
merely to his part of it ; everything beyond the
concerns of his ship was out of his sphere ;
and anything that interfered with the routine
of his nautical duties put him in a passion.
The partners, on the other hand, had been
62 Bstoria
brought up in the sendee of the Northwest
Company, and in a profound idea of the im-
portance, dignity, and authority of a partner.
They already began to consider themselves on
a par with the M'Tavishes, the M'Gillivrays,
the Frobishers, and the other magnates of the
Northwest, whom they had been accustomed
to look up to as the great ones of the earth ;
and they were a little disposed, perhaps, to
wear their suddenly-acquired honors with some
air of preteiition. Mr. Astor, too, had put
them on their mettle with respect to the cap-
tain, describing him as a gunpowder fellow
who would command his ship in fine style,
and, if there was any fighting to do, would
' ' blow all out of the water. ' '
Thus prepared to regard each other with no
very cordial eye, it is not to be wondered at
that the parties soon came into collision. On
the very first night Captain Thorn began his
man-of-war discipline by ordering the lights
in the cabin to be extinguished at eight
o'clock.
The pride of the partners was immediately
in arms. This was an invasion of their rights
and dignities not to be borne. They were on
board of their own ship, and entitled to con-
sult their ease and enjoyment. M'Dougal was
the champion of their cause. He was an active,
B Violent altercation 63
irritable, fuming, vainglorious little man, and
elevated in his own opinion, by being the
proxy of Mr. Astor. A violent altercation
ensued, in the course of which Thorn threat-
ened to put the partners in irons should they
prove refractory ; upon which M'Dougal seized
a pistol and swore to be the death of the cap-
tain should he ever offer such an indignity.
It was some time before the irritated parties
could be pacified by the more temperate by-
standers.
Such was the captain's outset with the part-
ners. Nor did the clerks stand much higher
in his good graces ; indeed, he seems to have
regarded all the landsmen on board his ship as
a kind of live lumber, continually in the way.
The poor voyageurs, too, continually irritated
his spleen by their ' ' lubberly ' ' and unseemly
habits, so abhorrent to one accustomed to the
cleanliness of a man-of-war. These poor fresh-
water sailors, so vainglorious on shore, and
almost amphibious when on lakes and rivers,
lost all heart and stomach the moment they
were at sea. For days they suffered the dole-
ful rigors and retchings of sea-sickness, lurk-
ing below in their berths in squalid state, or
emerging now and then like spectres from the
hatchways, in capotes and blankets, with dirty
nightcaps, grizzly beard, lantern visage, and
64 Sstoria
unhappy eye, shivering about the deck, and
ever and anon crawling to the sides of the ves-
sel, and offering up their tributes to the wind-
ward, to the infinite annoyance of the captain.
His letters to Mr. Astor, wherein he pours
forth the bitterness of his soul, and his seaman-
like impatience of what he considers the ' ' lub-
berly ' ' character and conduct of those around
him, are before us, and are amusingly charac-
teristic. The honest captain is full of vexation
on his own account, and solicitude on account
of Mr. Astor, whose property he considers at
the mercy of a most heterogeneous and waste-
ful crew.
As to the clerks, he pronounced them mere
pretenders, not one of whom had ever been
among the Indians, nor farther to the north-
west than Montreal, nor of higher rank than
bar-keeper of a tavern or marker of a billiard-
table, excepting one, who had been a school-
master, and whom he emphatically sets down
for " as foolish a pedant as ever lived."
Then as to the artisans and laborers who had
been brought from Canada and shipped at such
expense, the three most respectable, according
to the captain's account, were culprits, who
had fled from Canada on account of their mis-
deeds ; the rest had figured in Montreal as
draymen, barbers, waiters, and carriole driv-
Xanfcsmen at Sea 65
ers, and were the most helpless, worthless
beings " that ever broke sea-biscuit."
It may easily be imagined what a series of
misunderstandings and cross-purposes would
be likely to take place between such a crew
and such a commander. The captain, in his
zeal for the health and cleanliness of his ship,
would make sweeping visitations to the ' ' lub-
ber-nests ' ' of the unlucky voyageurs and their
companions in misery, ferret them out of their
berths, make them air and wash themselves
and their accoutrements, and oblige them to
stir about briskly and take exercise.
Nor did his disgust and vexation cease when
all hands had recovered from sea-sickness, and
become accustomed to the ship, for now broke
out an alarming keenness of appetite that
threatened havoc to the provisions. What
especially irritated the captain was the dainti-
ness of some of his cabin passengers. They
were loud in their complaints of the ship's fare,
though their table was served with fresh pork,
ham, tongues, smoked beef, and puddings.
" When thwarted in their cravings for deli-
cacies, ' ' said he, ' ' they would exclaim it was
d d hard they could not live as they pleased
upon their own property, being on board of
their own ship, freighted with their own mer-
chandise. And these," added he, " are the fine
VOL. I.— 5
66 Bstoria
fellows who made such boast that they could
4 eat dogs."'
In his indignation at what he termed their
effeminacy, he would swear that he would
never take them to sea again ' ' without having
Fly-market on the forecastle, Covent-garden
on the poop, and a cool spring from Canada
in the maintop."
As they proceeded on their voyage and got
into the smooth seas and pleasant weather of
the tropics, other annoyances occurred to vex
the spirit of the captain. He had been crossed
by the irritable mood of one of the partners ;
he was now excessively annoyed by the good-
humor of another. This was the elder Stuart,
who was an easy soul, and of a social disposi-
tion. He had seen life in Canada, and on the
coast of Labrador ; had been a fur trader in
the former, and a fisherman on the latter ;
and, in the course of his experience, had made
various expeditions with voyageurs. He was
accustomed, therefore, to the familiarity which
prevails between that class and their superiors,
and the gossipings which take place among
them when seated round a fire at their encamp-
ments. Stuart was never so happy as when he
could seat himself on the deck with a number
of these men round him, in camping style,
smoke together, passing the pipe from mouth
Clerks 67
to mouth, after the manner of the Indians, sing
old Canadian boat-songs, and tell stories about
their hardships and adventures, in the course
of which he rivalled Sinbad in his long tales
of the sea, about his fishing exploits on the
coast of Labrador.
This gossiping familiarity shocked the cap-
tain's notions of rank and subordination, and
nothing was so abhorrent to him as the com-
munity of pipe between master and man, and
their mingling in chorus in the outlandish
boat-songs.
Then there was another whimsical source of
annoyance to him. Some of the young clerks,
who were making their first voyage, and to
whom everything was new and strange, were,
very rationally, in the habit of taking notes
and keeping journals. This was a sore abomi-
nation to the honest captain, who held their
literary pretensions in great contempt. ' ' The
collecting of materials for long histories of their
voyages and travels," said he, in his letter to
Mr. Astor, "appears to engross most of their
attention." We can conceive what must have
been the crusty impatience of the worthy navi-
gator, when, on any trifling occurrence in the
course of the voyage, quite commonplace in
his eyes, he saw these young landsmen run-
ning to record it in their journals ; and what
68 B0toria
indignant glances he must have cast to right
and left, as he worried about the deck, giving
out his orders for the management of the ship,
surrounded by singing, smoking, gossiping,
scribbling groups, all, as he thought, intent
upon the amusement of the passing hour,
instead of the great purposes and interests of
the voyage.
It is possible the captain was in some degree
right in his notions. Though some of the pas-
sengers had much to gain by the voyage, none
of them had anything positively to lose. They
were mostly young men, in the hey-day of life ;
and having got into fine latitudes, upon smooth
seas, with a well-stored ship under them, and
a fair wind in the shoulder of the sail, they
seemed to have got into a holiday world, and
were disposed to enjoy it. That craving de-
sire, natural to untravelled men of fresh and
lively minds, to see strange lands, and to visit
scenes famous in history or fable, was expressed
by some of the partners and clerks, with re-
spect to some of the storied coasts and islands
that lay within their route. The captain, how-
ever, who regarded every coast and island with
a matter-of-fact eye, and had no more associa-
tions connected with them than those laid down
in his sea-chart, considered all this curiosity as
exceedingly idle and childish. "In the first
Curious travellers 69
part of the voyage," says he in his letter,
"they were determined to have it said they
had been in Africa, and therefore insisted on
my stopping at the Cape de Verds. Next they
said the ship should stop "on the coast of Pata-
gonia, for they must see the large and uncom-
mon inhabitants of that place. Then they
must go to the island where Robinson Crusoe
had so long lived. And lastly, they were deter-
mined to see the handsome inhabitants of
Easter Island."
To all these resolves the captain opposed his
peremptory veto, as ' * contrary to instructions. ' '
Then would break forth an unavailing explo-
sion of wrath on the part of certain of the
partners, in the course of which they did not
even spare Mr. Astor for his act of supereroga-
tion in furnishing orders for the control of the
ship while they were on board, instead of leav-
ing them to be the judges where it would be
best for her to touch, and how long to remain.
The choleric M'Dougal took the lead in these
railings, being, as has been observed, a little
puffed up with the idea of being Mr. Astor 's
proxy.
The captain, however, became only so much
the more crusty and dogged in his adherence
to his orders, and touchy and harsh in his deal-
ings with his passengers, and frequent alterca-
70 Betorfa
tions ensued. He may in some measure have
been influenced by his seamanlike impatience
of the interference of landsmen, and his high
notions of naval etiquette and quarter-deck
authority ; but he evidently had an honest,
trusty concern for the interests of his employer.
He pictured to himself the anxious projector of
the enterprise, who had disbursed so munifi-
cently in its outfit, calculating on the zeal, fidel-
ity, and singleness of purpose of his associates
and agents ; while they, on the other hand,
having a good ship at their disposal, and a deep
pocket at home to bear them out, seemed ready
to loiter on every coast, and amuse themselves
in every port.
On the fourth of December they came in sight
of the Falkland Islands. Having been for
some time on an allowance of water, it was re-
solved to anchor here and obtain a supply. A
boat was sent into a small bay to take sound-
ings. Mr. M'Dougal and Mr. M'Kay took
this occasion to go on shore, but with a request
from the captain that they would not detain the
ship. Once on shore, however, they were in
no haste to obey his orders, but rambled about
in search of curiosities. The anchorage prov-
ing unsafe, and water difficult to be procured,
the captain stood out to sea, and made repeated
signals for those on shore to rejoin the ship,
Sportsmen in tbc Xurcb 71
but it was not until nine at night that they came
on board.
The wind being adverse, the boat was again
sent on shore on the following morning, and
the same gentlemen again landed, but promised
to come off at a moment's warning ; they
again forgot their promise in their eager pur-
suit of wild geese and sea-wolves. After a
time the wind hauled fair, and signals were
made for the boat. Half an hour elapsed but
no boat put off. The captain reconnoitred the
shore with his glass, and, to his infinite vexa-
tion, saw the loiterers in the full enjoyment of
their ' ' wild-goose-chase. ' ' Nettled to the quick,
he immediately made sail. When those on
shore saw the ship actually under way, they
embarked with all speed, but had a hard pull
of eight miles before they got on board, and
then experienced but a grim reception, not-
withstanding that they came well laden with
the spoils of the chase.
Two days afterwards, on the seventh of De-
cember, they anchored at Fort Bgmont, in the
same island, where they remained four days
taking in water and making repairs. This was
a joyous time for the landsmen. They pitched
a tent on shore, had a boat at their command,
and passed their time merrily in rambling about
the island, and coasting along the shores, shoot-
72 Betoria
ing sea-lions, seals, foxes, geese, ducks, and
penguins. None were keener in pursuit of
this kind of game than M'Dougal and David
Stuart ; the latter was reminded of aquatic
sports on the coast of Labrador, and his hunt-
ing exploits in the Northwest.
In the meantime the captain addressed him-
self steadily to the business of his ship, scorn-
ing the holiday spirit and useless pursuits of
his emancipated messmates, and warning them,
from time to time, not to wander away nor be
out of hail. They promised, as usual, that
the ship should never experience a moment's
detention on their account, but, as usual, for-
got their promise.
On the morning of the nth, the repairs be-
ing all finished, and the water casks replen-
ished, the signal was given to embark, and the
ship began to weigh anchor. At this time sev-
eral of the passengers were dispersed about the
island, amusing themselves in various ways.
Some of the young men had found two inscrip-
tions, in English, over a place where two un-
fortunate mariners had been buried in this
desert island. As the inscriptions were nearly
worn out by time and weather, they were play-
ing the part of " Old Mortality," and piously
renewing them. The signal from the ship
summoned them from their labors ; they saw
Captain's Sbreat 73
the sails unfurled, and that she was getting un-
der way. The two sporting partners, however,
Mr. M'Dougal and David Stuart, had strolled
away to the south of the island in pursuit of
penguins. It would never do to put off with-
out them, as there was but one boat to convey
the whole.
While this delay took place on shore, the
captain was storming on board. This was the
third time his orders had been treated with con-
tempt, and the ship wantonly detained, and it
should be the last ; so he spread all sail and
put to sea, swearing he would leave the lag-
gards to shift for themselves. It was in vain
that those on board made remonstrances and
entreaties, and represented the horrors of aban-
doning men upon a sterile and uninhabited
island ; the sturdy captain was inflexible.
In the meantime the penguin hunters had
joined the engravers of tombstones, but not
before the ship was already out at sea. They
all, to the number of eight, threw themselves
into their boat, which was about twenty feet
in length, and rowed with might and main.
For three hours and a half did they tug anx-
iously and severely at the oar, swashed occa-
sionally by the surging waves of the open sea,
while the ship inexorably kept on her course,
and seemed determined to leave them behind.
74 Bstorfa
On board of the ship was the nephew of
David Stuart, a youiig man of spirit and reso-
lution. Seeing, as he thought, the captain
obstinately bent upon abandoning his uncle and
the others, he seized a pistol, and in a parox-
ysm of wrath swore he would blow out the
captain's brains, unless he put about or shor-
tened sail.
Fortunately for all parties, the wind just
then came ahead, and the boat was enabled to
reach the ship ; otherwise, disastrous circum-
stances might have ensued. We can hardly
believe that the captain really intended to carry
his threat into full effect, and rather think he
meant to let the laggards off for a long pull and
a hearty fright. He declared, however, in his
letter to Mr. Astor, that he was serious in his
threats, and there is no knowing how far such
an iron man may push his notions of authority.
"Had the wind," writes he, "(unfortu-
nately) not hauled ahead soon after leaving the
harbor's mouth, I should positively have left
them ; and, indeed, I cannot but think it an
unfortunate circumstance for you that it so
happened, for the first loss in this instance
would, in my opinion, have proved the best,
as they seem to have no idea of the value of
property, nor any apparent regard for your
interest, although interwoven with their own."
{partners Dispute 75
This, it must be confessed, was acting with
a high hand, and carrying a regard to the
owner's property to a dangerous length. Vari-
ous petty feuds occurred also between him and
the partners in respect to the goods on board
the ship, some articles of which they wished
to distribute for clothing among the men, or
for other purposes which they deemed essential.
The captain, however, kept a mastiff watch
upon the cargo, and growled and snapped if
they but offered to touch box or bale. ' ' It
was contrary to orders ; it would forfeit his
insurance ; it was out of all rule." It was in
vain they insisted upon their right to do so, as
part owners, and as acting for the good of the
enterprise ; the captain only stuck to his point
the more stanchly. They consoled themselves,
therefore, by declaring, that as soon as they
made land, they would assert their rights, and
do with ship and cargo as they pleased.
Beside these feuds between the captain and
the partners, there were feuds between the
partners themselves, occasioned, in some meas-
ure, by jealousy of rank. M'Dougal and
M'Kay began to draw plans for the fort, and
other buildings of the intended establishment.
They agreed very well as to the outline
and dimensions, which were on a sufficiently
grand scale ; but when they came to arrange.
76 Bstorla
the details, fierce disputes arose, and they
would quarrel by the hour about the distribu-
tion of the doors and windows. Many were
the hard words and hard names bandied
between them on these occasions, according
to the captain's account. Each accused the
other of endeavoring to assume unwarrantable
power, and take the lead ; upon which Mr.
M'Dougal would vauntingly lay down Mr.
Astor's letter, constituting him his representa-
tive and proxy, a document not to be disputed.
These wordy contests, though violent, were
brief ; ' ' and within fifteen minutes, ' ' says the
captain, " they would be caressing each other
like children."
While all this petty anarchy was agitating
the little world within the Tonquin, the good
ship prosperously pursued her course, doubled
Cape Horn on the 25th of December, careered
across the bosom of the Pacific, until, on the
nth of February, the snowy peaks of Owyhee
were seen brightening above the horizon.
Cbaptet Itrff.
Owyhee — Sandwich Islanders — Tamaahmaah — Views
of Mr. Astor with Respect to the Sandwich Islands
— Karakakooa— Place where Captain Cook was
Killed— John Young, a Nautical Governor — Waititi
— A Royal Residence — A Royal Visit— Grand Cere-
monials.
OWYHEE, or Hawaii, as it is written by
more exact orthographers, is the
largest of the cluster, ten in number,
of the Sandwich Islands. It is about
ninety-seven miles in length, and seventy-eight
in breadth, rising gradually into three pyra-
midal summits or cones ; the highest, Mouna
Roa, being eighteen thousand feet above the
level of the sea, so as to domineer over the
whole archipelago, and to be a land-mark over
a wide extent of ocean. It remains a lasting
monument of the enterprising and unfortunate
Captain Cook, who was murdered by the na-
tives of this island.
77
78 Bstoria
The Sandwich Islanders, when first discov-
ered, evinced a character superior to most of
the savages of the Pacific isles. They were
frank and open in their deportment, friendly
and liberal in their dealings, with an apt inge-
nuity apparent in all their rude inventions.
The tragical fate of the discoverer, which,
for a time, brought them under the charge of
ferocity, was, in fact, the result of sudden ex-
asperation, caused by the seizure of their
chief.
At the time of the visit of the Tonquin, the
islanders had profited, in many respects, by
occasional intercourse with white men ; and
had shown a quickness to observe and cultivate
those arts important to their mode of living.
Originally they had no means of navigating
the seas by which they were surrounded, su-
perior to light pirogues, which were little com-
petent to contend with the storms of the broad
ocean. As the islanders are not in sight of
each other, there could, therefore, be but cas-
ual intercourse between them. The traffic
with white men had put them in possession of
vessels of superior description ; they had made
themselves acquainted with their management,
and had even made rude advances in the art
of ship-building.
These improvements had been promoted, in
ii
-
hen first discov-
. : _ >erior to most of
j,;es of the Pacific isles. They were
^en in their deportment, friendly
- ral in their dealings, with an apt inge-
apparent in all their rude inventions.
The tragical fate of the discoverer, which,
for a time, brought them under the charge of
ferocity, was, in fact, the result of sudden ex-
ation, caused by the seizure of their
of the Tonquin, the
Diamond Head, Sandwich IslatfMPts, by
Based on a photograph
;vate
hi of living.
Bating
su-
; lie com-
of the broad
slanders are not in sight of
\ other, there could, therefore, be but cas-
ual intercourse between them. The traffic
with white men had put them in possession of
•.-Is of superior description ; they had made
themselves acquainted with their management,
and had even made rude advances in the art
up-building.
e improvements had been promoted, in
* if
I
SanDwicb "Islands 79
a great measure, by the energy and sagacity
of one man, the famous Tamaahmaah. He
had originally been a petty eri, or chief; but,
being of an intrepid and aspiring nature, he
had risen in rank, and, availing himself of the
superior advantages now afforded in navigation,
had brought the whole archipelago in subjec-
tion to his arms. At the time of the arrival
of the Tonquin he had about forty schooners,
of from twenty to thirty tons burden, and one
old American ship. With these he held un-
disputed sway over his insular domains, and
carried on intercourse with the chiefs or gover-
nors whom he had placed in command of the
several islands.
The situation of this group of islands, far
in the bosom of the vast Pacific, and their
abundant fertility, render them important stop-
ping-places on the highway to China, or to the
northwest coast of America. Here the vessels
engaged in the fur trade touched to make re-
pairs and procure provisions ; and here they
often sheltered themselves during the winters
that occurred in their long coasting expeditions.
The British navigators were, from the first,
aware of the value of these islands to the pur-
poses of commerce ; and Tamaahmaah, not
long after he had attained the sovereign sway,
was persuaded by Vancouver, the celebrated
3o
discoverer, to acknowledge, on behalf of him-
self and subjects, allegiance to the king of
Great Britain. The reader cannot but call to
mind the visit which the royal family and court
of the Sandwich Islands was, in late years, in-
duced to make to the court of St. James ; and
the serio-comic ceremonials and mock parade
which attended that singular travesty of
monarchal style.
It was a part of the wide and comprehensive
plan of Mr. Astor to establish a friendly inter-
course between these islands and his intended
colony, which might, for a time, have occasion
to draw supplies thence ; and he even had a
vague idea of, some time or other, getting pos-
session of one of their islands as a rendezvous
for his ships, and a link in the chain of his
commercial establishments.
On the evening of the i2th of February, the
Tonquin anchored in the bay of Karakakooa,
in the island of Owyhee. The surrounding
shores were wild and broken, with overhanging
cliffs and precipices of black volcanic rock.
Beyond these, however, the country was fer-
tile and well cultivated, with inclosures of
yams, plantains, sweet potatoes, sugar-canes,
and other productions of warm climates and
teeming soils ; and the numerous habitations
of the natives were pleasantly sheltered beneath
SanDwicb fslanOcrs 81
clumps of cocoanut and bread-fruit trees, which
afforded both food and shade. This mingled
variety of garden and grove swept gradually
up the sides of the mountains, until succeeded
by dense forests, which in turn gave place to
naked and craggy rocks, until the summits
rose into the regions of perpetual snow.
The royal residence of Tamaahmaah was at
this time at another island named Woahoo.
The island of Owyhee was under the command
of one of his eris, or chiefs, who resided at
the village of Tocaigh, situated on a different
part of the coast from the bay of Karakakooa.
On the morning after her arrival, the ship
was surrounded by canoes and pirogues, filled
with the islanders of both sexes, bringing off
supplies of fruits and vegetables, bananas,
plantains, watermelons, yams, cabbages, and
taro. The captain was desirous, however, of
purchasing a number of hogs, but there were
none to be had. The trade in pork was a royal
monopoly, and no subject of the great Tamaah-
maah dared to meddle with it. Such provi-
sions as they could furnish, however, were
brought by the natives in abundance, and a
lively intercourse was kept up during the day,
in which the women mingled in the kindest
manner.
The islanders are a comely race, of a copper
VOL. I. — 6
82 Bstocia
complexion. The men are tall and well made,
with forms indicating strength and activity ;
the women with regular and occasionally hand-
some features, and a lascivious expression,
characteristic of their temperament. Their
style of dress was nearly the same as in the
days of Captain Cook. The men wore the
maro, a band one foot in width and several feet
in length, swathed round the loins, and formed
of tappa, or cloth of bark ; the kihei, or man-
tle, about six feet square, tied in a knot over
one shoulder, passed under the opposite arm,
so as to leave it bare, and falling in graceful
folds before and behind, to the knee, so as to
bear some resemblance to a Roman toga.
The female dress consisted of the pau, a gar-
ment formed of a piece of tappa, several yards
in length and one in width, wrapped round the
waist, and reaching like a petticoat, to the
knees. Over this a kihei, or mantle, larger
than that of the men, sometimes worn over
both shoulders, like a shawl, sometimes over
one only. These mantles were seldom worn
by either sex during the heat of the day, when
the exposure of their persons was at first very
revolting to a civilized eye.
Towards evening several of the partners and
clerks went on shore, where they were well re-
ceived and hospitably entertained. A dance
B pilgrimage 83
was performed for their amusement, in which
nineteen young women and one man figured
very gracefully, singing in concert, and moving
to the cadence of their song.
All this, however, was nothing to the pur-
pose in the eyes of Captain Thorn, who, being
disappointed in his hope of obtaining a supply
of pork, or finding good water, was anxious to
be off. This it was not so easy to effect. The
passengers, once on shore, were disposed, as
usual, to profit by the occasion. The partners
had many inquiries to make relative to the
island, with a view to business ; while the
young clerks were delighted with the charms
and graces of the dancing damsels.
To add to their gratifications, an old man
offered to conduct them to the spot where Cap-
tain Cook was massacred. The proposition
was eagerly accepted, and all hands set out on
a pilgrimage to the place. The veteran isl-
ander performed his promise faithfully, and
pointed out the very spot where the unfortu-
nate discoverer fell. The rocks and cocoa-
trees .around bore record of the fact, in the
marks of the balls fired from the boats upon
the savages. The pilgrims gathered round the
old man, and drew from him all the particu-
lars he had to relate respecting tliis memorable
event ; while the honest captain stood by and
84 Bstoria
bit his nails with impatience. To add to his
vexation, they employed themselves in knock-
ing off pieces of the rocks, and cutting off the
bark of the trees marked by the balls, which
they conveyed back to the ship as precious
relics.
Right glad, therefore, was he to get them
and their treasures fairly on board, when he
made sail from this unprofitable place, and
steered for the Bay of Tocaigh, the residence
of the chief governor of the island, where he
hoped to be more successful in obtaining sup-
plies. On coming to anchor the captain went
on shore accompanied by Mr. M'Dougal and
Mr. M'Kay, and paid a visit to the governor.
This dignitary proved to be an old sailor, by
the name of John Young ; who, after being
tossed about the seas like another Sindbad,
had, by one of the whimsical freaks of fortune,
been elevated to the government of a savage
island. He received his visitors with more
hearty familiarity than personages in his high
station are apt to indulge, but soon gave them
to understand that provisions were scanty at
Tocaigh, and there was no good water, no rain
having fallen in the neighborhood in three
years.
The captain was immediately for breaking
up the conference and departing, but the part-
Governor )0oim0 85
ners were not so willing to part with the nau-
tical governor, who seemed disposed to be ex-
tremely communicative, and from whom they
might be able to procure some useful informa-
tion. A long conversation accordingly en-
sued, in the course of which they made many
inquiries about the affairs of the islands, their
natural productions, and the possibility of
turning them to advantage in the way of
trade ; nor did they fail to inquire into the indi-
vidual history of John Young, and how he
came to be governor. This he gave with great
condescension, running through the whole
course of his fortunes ' ' even from his boyish
days."
He was a native of Liverpool, in England,
and had followed the sea from boyhood, until,
by dint of good conduct, he had risen so far in
his profession as to be boatswain of an Ameri-
can ship called the Eleanor, commanded by
Captain Metcalf. In this vessel he had sailed
in 1789, on one of those casual expeditions to
the nortwest coast, in quest of furs. In the
course of the voyage, the captain left a small
schooner named Fair American, at Nootka,
with a crew of five men, commanded by his
son, a youth of eighteen. She was to follow
on in the track of the Eleanor.
In February, 1790, Captain Metcalf touched
86 Bstorta
at the island of Mowee, one of the Sandwich
group. While anchored here, a boat which
was astern of the £leanor\vas stolen, and a sea-
man who was in it was killed. The natives,
generally, disclaimed the outrage, and brought
the shattered remains of the boat and the dead
body of the seaman to the ship. Supposing
that they had thus appeased the anger of the
captain, they thronged, as usual, in great
numbers about the vessel, to trade. Captain
Metcalf, however, determined on a bloody re-
venge. The Eleanor mounted ten guns. All
these he ordered to be loaded with musket-
balls, nails, and pieces of old iron, and then fired
them, and the small arms of the ship, among
the natives. The havoc was dreadful ; more
than a hundred, according to Young's account,
were slain.
After this signal act of vengeance, Captain
Metcalf sailed from Mowee, and made for the
island of Owyhee, where he was well received
by Tamaahmaah. The fortunes of this warlike
chief were at that time on the rise. He had
originally been of inferior rank, ruling over
only one or two districts of Owyhee, but had
gradually made himself sovereign of his native
islands.
The Eleanor remained some few days at
anchor here, and an apparently friendly inter-
Storg of tbe Governor 87
course was kept up with the inhabitants. On
the i yth March, John Young obtained permis-
sion to pass the night on shore. On the fol-
lowing morning a signal-gun summoned him
to return on board.
He went on shore to embark, but found all
the canoes hauled up on the beach and rigor-
ously tabooed, or interdicted. He would have
launched one himself, but was informed by
Tamaahmaah that if he presumed to do so he
would be put to death.
Young was obliged to submit and remained
all day in great perplexity to account for this
mysterious taboo, and fearful that some hostil-
ity was intended. In the evening he learned
the cause of it, and his uneasiness was in-
creased. It appeared that the vindictive act
of Captain Metcalf had recoiled upon his own
head. The schooner Fair American, com-
manded by his son, following in his track, had
fallen into the hands of the natives to the
southward of Tocaigh Bay, and young Metcalf
and four of the crew had been massacred.
On receiving intelligence of this event,
Tamaahmaah had immediately tabooed all the
canoes, and interdicted all intercourse with the
ship, lest the captain should learn the fate of
the schooner, and take his revenge upon the
island. For the same reason he prevented
88 astorta
Young from rejoining his countrymen. Elea-
nor continued to fire signals from time to time
for two days, and then sailed ; concluding, no
doubt, that the boatswain had deserted.
John Young was in despair when he saw the
ship make sail, and found himself abandoned
among savages ; — and savages, too, sanguinary
in their character, and inflamed by acts of hostil-
ity. He was agreeably disappointed, however,
in experiencing nothing but kind treatment
from Tamaahmaah and his people. It is true,
he was narrowly watched whenever a vessel
came in sight, lest he should escape and relate
what had passed ; but at other times he was
treated with entire confidence and great distinc-
tion. He became a prime favorite, cabinet
counsellor, and active coadjutor of Tamaah-
maah, attending him in all his excursions,
whether of business or pleasure, and aiding in
his warlike and ambitious enterprises. By de-
grees he rose to the rank of a chief, espoused
one of the beauties of the island, and became
habituated and reconciled to his new way
of life ; thinking it better, perhaps, to rule
among savages than serve among white
men ; to be a feathered chief than a tarpaulin
boatswain. His favor with Tamaahmaah
never declined ; and when that sagacious, in-
trepid, and aspiring chieftain had made him-
Departure for TOloaboo 89
self sovereign over the whole group of islands,
and removed his residence to Woahoo, he left
his faithful adherent John Young in command
of Owyhee.
Such is an outline of the history of Governor
Young, as furnished by himself ; and we regret
that we are not able to give any account of the
state maintained by this seafaring worthy, and
the manner in which he discharged his high
functions ; though it is evident he had more
of the hearty familiarity of the forecastle than
the dignity of the gubernatorial office.
These long conferences were bitter trials to
the patience of the captain, who had no respect
either for the governor or his island, and was
anxious to push on in quest of provisions and
water. As soon as he could get his inquisitive
partners once more on board, he weighed an-
chor, and made sail for the island of Woahoo,
the royal residence of Tamaahmaah.
This is the most beautiful island of the Sand-
wich group. It is forty-six miles in length
and twenty-three in breadth. A ridge of vol-
canic mountains extend through the centre,
rising into lofty peaks, and skirted by undu-
lating hills and rich plains^ where the cabins
of the natives peep out from beneath groves of
cocoanut and other luxuriant trees.
On the 2ist of February the Tonquin cast
go Bstoria
anchor in the beautiful bay before the village
of Waititi (pronounced Whyteetee), the abode
of Tamaahmaah. This village contained about
two hundred habitations, composed of poles set
in the ground, tied together at the ends, and
thatched with grass, and was situated in an
open grove of cocoanuts. The royal palace of
Tamaahmaah was a large house of two stories ;
the lower of stone, the upper of wood. Round
this his body-guard kept watch, composed of
twenty- four men in long blue cassocks turned
up with yellow, and each armed with a musket.
While at anchor at that place, much cere-
monious visiting and long conferences took
place between the potentate of the islands and
the partners of the company. Tamaahmaah
came on board of the ship in royal style, in his
double pirogue. He was between fifty and
sixty years of age, above the middle size, large
and well made, though somewhat corpulent.
He was dressed in an old suit of regimentals,
with a sword by his side, and seemed somewhat
embarrassed by his magnificent attire. Three
of his wives accompanied him. They were
almost as tall, and quite as corpulent as him-
self ; but by no means to be compared with him
in grandeur of habiliments, wearing no other
garb than the pau. With him, also, came his
great favorite and confidential counsellor, Krai-
91
maker ; who, from holding a post equivalent
to that of prime minister, had been familiarly
named Billy Pitt by the British visitors to the
islands.
The sovereign was received with befitting
ceremonial. The American flag was displayed,
four guns were fired, and the partners appeared
in scarlet coats, and conducted their illustrious
guests to the cabin, where they were regaled
with wine. In this interview the partners en-
deavored to impress the monarch with a sense
of their importance, and the importance of the
association to which they belonged. They let
him know that they were eris, or chiefs, of a
great company about to be established on the
northwest coast, and talked of the probability
of opening a trade with his islands, and of
sending ships there occasionally. All this was
gratifying and interesting to him, for he was
aware of the advantages of trade, and desirous
of promoting frequent intercourse with white
men. He encouraged Europeans and Ameri-
cans to settle in his islands and intermarry with
his subjects. There were between twenty and
thirty white men at that time resident in the
island, but many of them were mere vagabonds,
who remained there in hopes of leading a lazy
and an easy life. For such Tamaahmaah had
a great contempt ; those only had his esteem
92 Bstoria
and countenance who knew some trade or me-
chanic art, and were sober and industrious.
On the day subsequent to the monarch's visit,
the partners landed and waited upon him in
return. Knowing the effect of show and dress
upon men in savage life, and wishing to make
a favorable impression as the eris, or chiefs, of
the great American Fur Company, some of them
appeared in Highland plaids and kilts, to the
great admiration of the natives.
While visits of ceremony and grand diplo-
matic conferences were going on between the
partners and the king, the captain, in his plain,
matter-of-fact way, was pushing what he con-
sidered a far more important negotiation — the
purchase of a supply of hogs. He found that
the king had profited in more ways than one
by his intercourse with white men. Above all
other arts he had learned the art of driving a
bargain. He was a magnanimous monarch,
but a shrewd pork merchant ; and perhaps
thought he could not do better with his future
allies, the American Fur Company, than to
begin by close dealing. Several interviews
were requisite, and much bargaining, before
he could be brought to part with a bristle of
his bacon, and then he insisted upon being paid
in hard Spanish dollars ; giving as a reason
that he wanted money to purchase a frigate
provisions Obtained 93
from his brother George, as he affectionately
termed the King of England.*
At length the royal bargain was concluded ;
the necessary supply of hogs obtained, beside
several goats, two sheep, a quantity of poul-
* It appears from the accounts of subsequent voy-
agers, that Tamaahmaah afterwards succeeded in his
wish of purchasing a large ship. In this he sent a
cargo of sandalwood to Canton, having discovered
that the foreign merchants trading with him made
large profits on this wood, shipped by them from the
islands to the Chinese markets. The ship was manned
by natives, but the officers were Englishmen. She
accomplished her voyage, and returned in safety to
the islands, with the Hawaiian flag floating gloriously
in the breeze. The king hastened on board, expect-
ing to find his sandalwood converted into crapes and
damasks, and other rich stuffs of China, but found, to
his astonishment, by the legerdemain of traffic, his
cargo had all disappeared, and, in place of it, remained
a bill of charges amounting to three thousand dollars.
It was some time before he could be made to compre-
hend certain of the most important items of the bill,
such as pilotage, anchorage, and custom-house fees ;
but when he discovered that maritime states in other
countries derived large revenues in this manner, to
the great cost of the merchant, "Well," he cried,
"then I will have harbor fees also." He established
them accordingly. Pilotage a dollar a foot on the
draft of each vessel. Anchorage from sixty to seventy
dollars. In this way he greatly increased the royal
revenue, and turned his China speculation to account.
94 Bstotfa
try, and vegetables in abundance. The part-
ners now urged to recruit their forces from the
natives of this island. They declared they
had never seen watermen equal to them, even
among the voyageurs of the Northwest ; and,
indeed, they are remarkable for their skill in
managing their light craft, and can swim and
dive like waterfowl. The partners were in-
clined, therefore, to take thirty or forty with
them to the Columbia, to be employed in the
service of the company. The captain, how-
ever, objected that there was not room in his
vessel for the accommodation of such a num-
ber. Twelve, only, were therefore enlisted for
the company, and as many more for the service
of the ship. The former engaged to serve for
the term of three years, during which they
were to be fed and clothed ; and at the expira-
tion of the time were to receive one hundred
dollars in merchandise.
And now, having embarked his live-stock,
fruits, vegetables, and water, the captain made
ready to set sail. How much the honest man
had suffered in spirit by what he considered
the freaks and vagaries of his passengers, and
how little he had understood their humors and
intentions, is amusingly shown in a letter writ-
ten to Mr. Astor from Woahoo, which contains
his comments on the scenes we have decribed.
©pinions of tbe Captain 95
"It would be difficult," he writes, " to im-
agine the frantic gambols that are daily played
off here ; sometimes dressing in red coats, and
otherwise very fantastically, and collecting a
number of ignorant natives around them, tell-
ing them that they are the great eares of the
Northwest, and making arrangements for send-
ing three or four vessels yearly to them from
the coast with spars, etc. ; while those very
natives cannot even furnish a hog to the ship.
Then dressing in Highland plaids and kilts,
and making similar arrangements, with pres-
ents of rum, wine, or anything that is at hand.
Then, taking a number of clerks and men on
shore to the very spot on which Captain Cook
was killed, and each fetching off a piece of
the rock or tree that was touched by the shot.
Then sitting down with some white man or
some native who can be a little understood,
and collecting the history of those islands,
of Tamaahmaah's wars, the curiosities of the
islands, etc., preparatory to the histories of
their voyages ; and the collection is indeed
ridiculously contemptible. To enumerate the
thousand instances of ignorance, filth, etc., or
to particularize all the frantic gambols that are
daily practised, would require volumes."
Before embarking, the great eris of the
American Fur Company took leave of their
96 Bstorfa
illustrious ally in due style, with many pro-
fessions of lasting friendship and promises of
future intercourse ; while the matter-of-fact
captain anathematized him in his heart for a
grasping, trafficking savage ; as shrewd and
sordid in his dealings as a white man. As one
of the vessels of the company will, in the course
of events, have to appeal to the justice and
magnanimity of this island potentate, we shall
see how far the honest captain was right in his
opinion.
Cbapter ID11.
i
Departure from the Sandwich Islands — Misunder-
standings— Miseries of a Suspicious Man— Arrival
at the Columbia — Dangerous Service — Gloomy Ap-
prehensions— Bars and Breakers — Perils of the Ship
— Disasters of a Boat's Crew — Burial of a Sandwich
Islander.
IT was on the 28th of February that the
Tonquin set sail from the Sandwich Isl-
ands. For two days the wind was con-
trary, and the vessel was detained in their
neighborhood ; at length a favorable breeze
sprang up, and in a little while the rich groves,
green hills, and snowy peaks of those happy
islands one after another sank from sight, or
melted into the blue distance, and the Tonquin
plowed her course towards the sterner regions
of the Pacific.
The misunderstandings between the captain
and his passengers still continued ; or rather,
increased in gravity. By his altercations and
VOL. I.— 7
97
98 Bstoria
his moody humors, he had cut himself off from
all community of thought, or freedom of con-
versation with them. He disdained to ask
any questions as to their proceedings, and
could only guess at the meaning of their
movements, and in so doing indulged in con-
jectures and suspicions, which produced the
most whimsical self- torment.
Thus, in one of his disputes with them,
relative to the goods on board, some of the
packages of which they wished to open, to
take out articles of clothing for the men or
presents for the natives, he was so harsh and
peremptory that they lost all patience, and
hinted that they were the strongest party, and
might reduce him to a very ridiculous dilemma,
by taking from him the command.
A thought now flashed across the captain's
mind that they really had a design to depose
him, and that, having picked up some infor-
mation at Owyhee, possibly of war between
the United States and England, they meant to
alter the destination of the voyage ; perhaps
to seize upon ship and cargo for their own use.
Once having conceived this suspicion, every-
thing went to foster it. They had distributed
fire-arms among some of their men, a common
precaution among the fur-traders when min-
gling with the natives. This, however, looked
Suspicions of tbe Captain 99
like preparation. Then several of the partners
and clerks and some of the men, being Scots-
men, were acquainted with the Gaelic, and
held long conversations together in that lan-
guage. These conversations were considered by
the captain of a ' ' mysterious and unwarranta-
ble nature," and related, no doubt, to some
foul conspiracy that was brewing among them.
He frankly avows such suspicions, in his letter
to Mr. Astor, but intimates that he stood ready
to resist any treasonous outbreak ; and seems
to think that the evidence of preparation on
his part had an effect in overawing the con-
spirators.
The fact is, as we have since been informed
by one of the parties, it was a mischievous
pleasure with some of the partners and clerks,
who were young men, to play upon the sus-
picious temper and splenetic humors of the
captain. To this we may ascribe many of
their whimsical pranks and absurd propo-
sitions, and, above all, their mysterious collo-
quies in Gaelic.
In this sore and irritable mood did the
captain pursue his course, keeping a wary eye
on every movement, and bristling up whenever
the detested sound of the Gaelic language
grated upon his ear. Nothing occurred, how-
ever, materially to disturb the residue of the
ioo Betoria
voyage excepting a violent storm ; and on the
twenty-second of March, the Tonquin arrived
at the mouth of the Oregon, or Columbia
River.
The aspect of the river and the adjacent coast
was wild and dangerous. The mouth of the
Columbia is upwards of four miles wide with
a peninsula and promontory on one side, and
a long low spit of land on the other ; between
which a sand-bar and a chain of breakers
almost block up the entrance. The interior
of the country rises into successive ranges of
mountains, which, at the time of the arrival
of the Tonquin, were covered with snow.
A fresh wind from the northwest sent a rough
tumbling sea upon the coast, which broke upon
the bar in furious surges, and extended a sheet
of foam almost across the mouth of the river.
Under these circumstances the captain did not
think it prudent to approach within three
leagues, until the bar should be sounded and the
channel ascertained. Mr. Fox, the chief mate,
was ordered to this service in the whaleboat,
accompanied by John Martin, an old seaman,
who had formerly visited the river, and by three
Canadians. Fox requested to have regular
sailors to man the boat, but the captain would
not spare them from the sendee of the ship,
and supposed the Canadians, being expert
anfc JSreafcerg 101
boatmen on lakes and rivers, were competent
to the service, especially when directed and
aided by Fox and Martin. Fox seems to
have lost all firmness of spirit on the occasion,
and to have regarded the service with a mis-
giving heart. He came to the partners for
sympathy, knowing their differences with the
captain, and the tears were in his eyes as he
represented his case. ' ' I am sent off, ' ' said
he, "without seamen to man my boat, in
boisterous weather, and on the most dangerous
part of the northwest coast. My uncle was
lost a few years ago on this same bar, and I
am now going to lay my bones alongside of
his." The partners sympathized in his appre-
hensions, and remonstrated with the captain.
The latter, however, was not to be moved.
He had been displeased with Mr. Fox in the
earlier part of the voyage, considering him
indolent and inactive ; and probably thought
his present repugnance arose from a want of
true nautical spirit. The interference of the
partners in the business of the ship, also, was
not calculated to have a favorable effect on a
stickler for authority like himself, especially
in his actual state of feeling towards them.
At one o'clock, P.M., therefore, Fox and his
comrades set off in the whaleboat, which is
represented as small in size, and crazy in con-
102 B6torfa
dition. All eyes were strained after the little
bark as it pulled for shore, rising and sinking
with the huge rolling waves, until it entered,
a mere speck, among the foaming breakers,
and was soon lost to view. Evening set in,
night succeeded and passed away, and morning
returned, but without the return of the boat.
As the wind had moderated, the ship stood
near to the land, so as to command a view of
the river's mouth. Nothing was to be seen
but a wild chaos of tumbling waves breaking
upon the bar, and apparently forming a foam-
ing barrier from shore to shore. Towards night
the ship again stood out to gain sea-room, and
a gloom was visible in every countenance.
The captain himself shared in the general
anxiety, and probably repented of his per-
emptory orders. Another weary and watchful
night succeeded, during which the wind sub-
sided, and the weather became serene.
On the following day, the ship having drifted
near the land, anchored in fourteen fathoms
water, to the northward of the long peninsula
or promontory which forms the north side of
the entrance, and is called Cape Disappoint-
ment. The pinnace was then manned, and
two of the partners, Mr. David Stuart and Mr.
M'Kay, set off in the hope of learning some-
thing of the fate of the whaleboat. The surf,
perilous Service 103
however, broke with such violence along the
shore that they could find no landing place.
Several of the natives appeared on the beach
and made signs to them to row round the cape,
but they thought it most prudent to return to
the ship.
The wind now springing up, the Tonquin
got under way, and stood in to seek the chan-
nel ; but was again deterred by the frightful
aspect of the breakers, from venturing within
a league. Here she hove-to; and Mr. Mum-
ford, the second mate, was despatched with
four hands, in the pinnace, to sound across the
channel until he should find four fathoms depth.
The pinnace entered among the breakers, but
was near being lost, and with difficulty got
back to the ship. The captain insisted that
Mr. Mum ford had steered too much to the
southward. He now turned to Mr. Aiken, an
able mariner, destined to command the schooner
intended for the coasting trade, and ordered
him, together with John Coles, sailmaker,
Stephen Weekes, armorer, and two Sandwich
Islanders, to proceed ahead and take soundings,
while the ship should follow under easy sail.
In this way they proceeded until Aiken had
ascertained the channel, when signal was given
from the ship for him to return on board. He
was then within pistol shot, but so furious was
104 B0tocia
the current, and tumultuous the breakers, that
the boat became unmanageable, and was hur-
ried away, the crew crying out piteously for
assistance. In a few moments she could
not be seen from the ship's deck. Some of
the passengers climbed to the mizzen top,
and beheld her still struggling to reach the
ship ; but shortly after she broached broad-
side to the waves, and her case seemed des-
perate. The attention of those on board of
the ship was now called to their own safety.
They were in shallow water ; the vessel struck
repeatedly, the waves broke over her, and there
was danger of her foundering. At length she
got into seven fathoms water, and the wind
lulling and the night coming on, cast anchor.
With the darkness their anxieties increased.
The wind whistled, the sea roared, the gloom
was only broken by the ghastly glare of the
foaming breakers, the minds of the seamen
were full of dreary apprehensions, and some of
them fancied they heard the cries of their lost
comrades mingling with the uproar of the ele-
ments. For a time, too, the rapidly ebbing tide
threatened to sweep them from their precarious
anchorage. At length the reflux of the tide,
and the springing up of the wind, enabled them
to quit their dangerous situation and take
shelter in a small bay within Cape Disappoint-
TTCleefees tbe Brmorer 105
ment, where they rode in safety during the
residue of a stormy night, and enjoyed a brief
interval of refreshing sleep.
With the light of day returned their cares
and anxieties. They looked out from the mast-
head over a wild coast, and wilder sea, but
could discover no trace of the two boats and
their crews that were missing. Several of the
natives came on board with peltries, but there
was no disposition to trade. They were inter-
rogated by signs after the lost boats, but could
not understand the inquiries.
Parties now went on shore and scoured the
neighborhood. One of these was headed by
the captain . They had not proceeded far when
they beheld a person at a distance in civilized
garb. As he drew near he proved to be Weekes,
the armorer. There was a burst of joy, for it
was hoped his comrades were near at hand.
His story, however, was one of disaster. He
and his companions had found it impossible to
govern their boat, having no rudder, and being
beset by rapid and whirling currents and boister-
ous surges. After long struggling they had
let her go at the mercy of the waves, tossing
about, sometimes with her bow, sometimes with
her broadside to the surges, threatened each
instant with destruction, yet repeatedly escap-
ing, until a huge sea broke over and swamped
106 Bstoria
her. Weekes was overwhelmed by the boiling
waves, but emerging above the surface, looked
round for his companions. Aiken and Coles
were not to be seen ; near him were the two
Sandwich Islanders, stripping themselves of
their clothing that they might swim more
freely. He did the same, and the boat floating
near to him he seized hold of it. The two
islanders joined him, and, uniting their forces,
they succeeded in turning the boat upon her
keel ; then bearing down her stern and rocking
her, they forced out so much water that she
was able to bear the weight of a man without
sinking. One of the islanders now got in, and
in a little while bailed out the water with his
hands. The other swam about and collected
the oars, and they all three got once more on
board.
By this time the tide had swept them be-
yond the breakers, and Weekes called on his
companions to row for laud. They were so
chilled and benumbed by the cold, however,
that they lost all heart, and absolutely refused.
Weekes was equally chilled, but had superior
sagacity and self-command. He counteracted
the tendency to drowsiness and stupor which
cold produces by keeping himself in constant
exercise ; and seeing that the vessel was ad-
vancing, and that everything depended upon
TUnfoctunate HslanDer 107
himself, he set to work to scull the boat clear
of the bar, and into quiet water.
Towards midnight one of the poor islanders
expired : his companion threw himself on his
corpse and could not be persuaded to leave him.
The dismal night wore away amidst these hor-
rors : as the day dawned, Weekes found him-
self near the land. He steered directly for it,
and at length, with the aid of the surf, ran his
boat high upon a sandy beach.
Finding that one of the Sandwich Islanders
yet gave signs of life, he aided him to leave
the boat, and set out with him towards the
adjacent woods. The poor fellow, however,
was too feeble to follow him, and Weekes was
soon obliged to abandon him to his fate and
provide for his own safety. Falling upon a
beaten path, he pursued it, and after a few
hours came to a part of the coast, where, to
his surprise and joy, he beheld the ship at
anchor and was met by the captain and his
party.
After Weekes had related his adventures,
three parties were despatched to beat up the
coast in search of the unfortunate islander.
They returned at night without success,
though they had used the utmost diligence..
On the following day the search was resumed,
and the poor fellow was at length discovered
JOB Sstoria
lying beneath a group of rocks, his legs
swollen, his feet torn and bloody from walking
through bushes and briers, and himself half-
dead with cold, hunger, and fatigue. Weekes
and this islander were the only survivors of
the crew of the jolly-boat, and no trace was
ever discovered of Fox and his party. Thus
eight men were lost on the first approach to
the coast ; a commencement that cast a gloom
over the spirits of the whole party, and was
regarded by some of the superstitious as an
omen that boded no good to the enterprise.
Towards night the Sandwich Islanders went
on shore, to bury the body of their unfortunate
countryman who had perished in the boat. On
arriving at the place where it had been left,
they dug a grave in the sand, in which they
deposited the corpse, with a biscuit under one
of the arms, some lard under the chin, and a
small quantity of tobacco, as provisions for its
journey in the land of spirits. Having cov-
ered the body with sand and flints, they
kneeled along the grave in a double row, with
their faces turned to the east, while one who
officiated as a priest sprinkled them with water
from a hat. In so doing he recited a kind of
prayer or invocation, to which, at intervals,
the others made responses. Such were the
simple rites performed by these poor savages
SanDwtcb Hslan&er's Burial 109
at the grave of their comrade on the shores of
a strange land ; and when these were done,
they rose and returned in silence to the ship,
without once casting a look behind.
Cbapter
Mouth of the Columbia— The Native Tribes— Search
for a Trading Site — Expedition of M'Dougal and
David Stuart — Comcomly, the One-eyed Chieftain
— An Aristocracy of Flatheads— Hospitality among
the Chinooks — Comcomly's Daughter — Her Con-
quest.
THE Columbia, or Oregon, for the dis-
tance of thirty or forty miles from its
entrance into the sea, is, properly
speaking, a mere estuary, indented by
deep bays so as to vary from three to seven
miles in width ; and is rendered extremely in-
tricate and dangerous by shoals Beaching
nearly from shore to shore, on which, at times,
the winds and currents produce foaming and
tumultuous breakers. The mouth of the river
proper is but about half a mile wide, formed
by the contracting shores of the estuary.
The entrance from the sea, as we have already
observed, is bounded on the south side by a
no
tf&outb of tbc Columbia m
flat sandy spit of land, stretching into the
ocean. This is commonly called Point Adams.
The opposite, or northern side, is Cape Disap-
pointment ; a kind of peninsula, terminating
in a steep knoll or promontory crowned with a
forest of pine-trees, and connected with the
mainland by a low and narrow neck. Immedi-
ately within this cape is a wide, open bay, ter-
minating at Chinook Point, so called from a
neighboring tribe of Indians. This was called
Baker's Bay, and here the Tonquin was an-
chored.
The natives inhabiting the lower part of the
river, and with whom the company was likely
to have the most frequent intercourse, were
divided at this time into four tribes, the Chi-
nooks, Clatsops, Wahkiacums, and Cathla-
mahs. They resembled each other in person,
dress, language, and manner ; and were prob-
ably from the same stock, but broken into
tribes, or rather hordes, by those feuds and
schisms'frequent among Indians.
These people generally live by fishing. It is
true they occasionally hunt the elk and deer,
and ensnare the water-fowl of their ponds and
rivers, but these are casual luxuries. Their
chief subsistence is derived from the salmon
and other fish which abound in the Columbia
and its tributary streams, aided by roots and
Bstoria
herbs, especially the wappatoo, which is found
on the island of the river.
As the Indians of the plains who depend
upon the chase are bold and expert riders, and
pride themselves upon their horses, so these
piscatory tribes of the coast excel in the man-
agement of canoes, and are never more at home
than when riding upon the waves. Their
canoes vary in form and size. Some are up-
wards of fifty feet long, cut out of a single tree,
either fir or white cedar, and capable of carry-
ing thirty persons. They have thwart pieces
from side to side about three inches thick, and
their gunwales flare outwards, so as to cast
off the surges of the waves. The bow and
stern are decorated with grotesque figures of
men and animals, sometimes five feet in
height.
In managing their canoes they kneel two
and two along the bottom, sitting on their
heels, and wielding paddles from four to five
feet long, while one sits on the stern and steers
with a paddle of the same kind. The women
are equally expert with the men in managing
the canoe, and generally take the helm.
It is surprising to see with what fearless
unconcern these savages venture in their light
barks upon the roughest and most tempestuous
seas. They seem to ride upon the waves like
twntiiui anD tfiebing UnDians 113
sea-fowl. Should a surge throw the canoe
upon its side and endanger its overturn, those
to windward lean over the upper gunwale,
thrust their paddles deep into the wave, appar-
ently catch the water and force it tinder the
canoe, and by this action not merely regain an
equilibrium, but give their bark a vigorous
impulse forward.
The effect of different modes of life upon the
human frame and human character is strik-
ingly instanced in the contrast between the
hunting Indians of the prairies, and the pis-
catory Indians of the sea-coast. The former,
continually on horseback scouring the plains,
gaining their food by hardy exercise, and sub-
sisting chiefly on flesh, are generally tall, sin-
ewy, meagre, but well formed, and of bold and
fierce deportment : the latter, lounging about
the river banks, or squatting and curved up in
their canoes, are generally low in stature, ill-
shaped, with crooked legs, thick ankles, and
broad, flat feet. They are inferior also in
muscular power and activity, and in game
qualities and appearance, to their hard-riding
brethren of the prairies.
Having premised these few particulars con-
cerning the neighboring Indians, we will re-
turn to the immediate concerns of the Tonquin
and her crew.
H4 Bstoria
Further search was made for Mr. Fox and
his party, with no better success, and they
were at length given up as lost. In the mean-
time, the captain and some of the partners
explored the river for some distance in a large
boat, to select a suitable place for the trading
post. Their old jealousies and differences con-
tinued ; they never could coincide in their
choice, and the captain objected altogether to
any site so high up the river. They all re-
turned, therefore, to Baker's Bay in no very
good humor. The partners proposed to exam-
ine the opposite shore, but the captain was
impatient of any further delay. His eager-
ness to "get on" had increased upon him.
He thought all these excursions a sheer loss of
time, and was resolved to land at once, build a
shelter for the reception of that part of his
cargo destined for the use of the settlement,
and, having cleared his ship of it and of his
irksome shipmates, to depart upon the prosecu-
tion of his coasting voyage, according to orders.
On the following day, therefore, without
troubling himself to consult the partners, he
landed in Baker's Bay, and proceeded to erect
a shed for the reception of the rigging, equip-
ments, and stores of the schooner that was to
be built for the use of the settlement.
This dogged determination on the part of
Selecting a Site 115
the sturdy captain gave high offence to Mr.
M'Dougal, who now considered himself at the
head of the concern, as Mr. Astor's representa-
tive and proxy. He set off the same day,
(April 5th), accompanied by Mr. David Stuart,
for the southern shore, intending to be back by
the yth. Not having the captain to contend
with, they soon pitched upon a spot which
appeared to them favorable for the intended
establishment. It was on a point of land called
Point George, having a very good harbor,
where vessels, not exceeding two hundred tons
burden, might anchor within fifty yards of
the shore.
After a day thus profitably spent, they re-
crossed the river, but landed on the northern
shore several miles above the anchoring ground
of the Tonquin, in the neighborhood of Chi-
nook, and visited the village of that tribe.
Here they were received with great hospitality
by the chief, who was named Comcomly, a
shrewd old savage, with but one eye, who will
occasionally figure in this narrative. Each vil-
lage forms a petty sovereignty, governed by its
own chief, who, however, possesses but little
authority, unless he be a man of wealth and
substance ; that is to say, possessed of canoes,
slaves, and wives. The greater the number
of these, the greater is the chief. How many
n6 Bstoria
wives this one-eyed potentate maintained we
are not told, but he certainly possessed great
sway, not merely over his own tribe, but over
the neighborhood.
Having mentioned slaves, we would observe
that slavery exists among several of the tribes
beyond the Rocky Mountains. The slaves are
well treated while in good health, but occupied
in all kinds of drudgery. Should they become
useless, however, by sickness or old age, they
are totally neglected, and left to perish ; nor is
any respect paid to their bodies after death.
A singular custom prevails, not merely
among the Chinooks, but among most of the
tribes about this part of the coast, which is the
flattening of the forehead. The process by
which this deformity is effected commences
immediately after birth. The infant is laid in
a wooden trough, by way of cradle. The end
on which the head reposes is higher than the
rest. A padding is placed on the forehead of
the infant, with a piece of bark above it, and
is pressed down by cords, which pass through
holes on each side of the trough. As the
tightening of the padding and the pressing of
the head to the board is gradual, the process is
said not to be attended with much pain. The
appearance of the infant, however, while in
this state of compression, is whimsically hide-
fln&fan f>oepftalftB ny
ous, and ' * its little black eyes, ' ' we are told,
* ' being forced out by the tightness of the ban-
dages, resemble those of a mouse choked in a
trap."
About a year's pressure is sufficient to pro-
duce the desired effect, at the end of which
time the child emerges from its bandages a
complete flathead, and continues so through
life. It must be noted, however, that this
flattening of the head has something in it of
aristocratical significancy, like the crippling
of the feet among the Chinese ladies of quality.
At any rate, it is a sign of freedom. No slave
is permitted to bestow this enviable deformity
upon his child; all the slaves, therefore, are
roundheads.
With this worthy tribe of Chinooks the two
partners passed a part of the day very agree-
ably. M'Dougal, who was somewhat vain of
his official rank, had given it to be understood
that they were two chiefs of a great trading
company, about to be established here, and the
quick-sighted, though one-eyed chief, who was
somewhat practised in traffic with white men,
immediately perceived the policy of cultivating
the friendship of two such important visitors.
He regaled them, therefore, to the best of his
ability, with abundance of salmon and wappa-
too. The next morning, April yth, they pre-
us Bstorla
pared to return to the vessel, according to
promise. They had eleven miles of open
bay to traverse ; the wind was fresh, the
waves ran high. Comcomly remonstrated with
them on the hazard to which they would be
exposed. They were resolute, however, and
launched their boat, while the wary chieftain
followed at some distance in his canoe. Scarce
had they rowed a mile, when a wave broke
over their boat and upset it. They were in
imminent peril of drowning, especially Mr.
M'Dougal, who could not swim. Comcomly,
however, came bounding over the waves in his
light canoe, and snatched them from a watery
grave.
They were taken on shore and a fire made,
at which they dried their clothes, after which
Comcomly conducted them back to his village.
Here everything was done that could be devised
for their entertainment during three days that
they were detained by bad weather. Com-
comly made his people perform antics before
them ; and his wives and daughters endeavored,
by all the soothing and endearing arts of
women, to find favor in their eyes. Some
even painted their bodies with red clay, and
anointed themselves with fish oil, to give addi-
tional lustre to their charms. Mr. M'Dougal
seems to have had a heart susceptible to the
Comcomlg's Baugbter 119
influence of the gentler sex. Whether or no
it was first touched on this occasion we do not
learn ; but it will be found, in the course of
this work, that one of the daughters of the
hospitable Comcomly eventually made a con-
quest of the great eri of the American Fur
Company.
When the weather had moderated and the
sea become tranquil, the one-eyed chief of the
Chinooks manned his state canoe, and con-
ducted his guests in safety to the ship, where
they were welcomed with joy, for apprehen-
sions had been felt for their safety. Comcomly
and his people were then entertained on board
of the Tonquin^ and liberally rewarded for
their hospitality and services. They returned
home highly satisfied, promising to remain
faithful friends and allies of the white men.
Cbapter f f .
Point George — Founding of Astoria — Indian Visitors
— Their Reception — The Captain Taboos the Ship
— Departure of the Tonquin — Comments on the
Conduct of Captain Thorn.
FROM the report made by the two explor-
ing partners, it was determined that
Point George should be the site of the
trading house. These gentlemen, it is
true, were not perfectly satisfied with the place
and were desirous of continuing their search ;
but Captain Thorn was impatient to land his
cargo and continue his voyage, and protested
against any more of what he termed ' ' sporting
excursions."
Accordingly, on the i2th of April, the launch
was freighted with all things necessary for the
purpose, and sixteen persons departed in her
to commence the establishment, leaving the
Tonquin to follow as soon as the harbor could
be sounded.
120
of Batorfa 121
Crossing the wide mouth of the river, the
party landed, and encamped at the bottom of a
small bay within Point George. The situation
chosen for the fortified post was on an elevation
facing to the north, with the wide estuary, its
sand bars and tumultuous breakers spread out
before it and the promontory of Cape Disap-
pointment, fifteen miles distant, closing the
prospect to the left. The surrounding country
was in all the freshness of spring ; the trees
were in the young leaf, the weather was superb,
and everything looked delightful to men just
emancipated from a long confinement on ship-
board. The Tonquin shortly afterwards made
her way through the intricate channel, and
came to anchor in the little bay, and was
saluted from the encampment with three
volleys of musketry and three cheers. She
returned the salute with three cheers and three
guns.
All hands now set to work cutting down
trees, clearing away thickets, and marking
out the place for the residence, store-house, and
powder magazine, which were to be built of
logs and covered with bark. Others landed
the timbers intended for the frame of the coast-
ing vessel, and proceeded to put them together,
while others prepared a garden spot, and sowed
the seeds of various vegetables.
122 Sstoria
The next thought was to give a name to the
embryo metropolis : the one that naturally
presented itself was that of the projector and
supporter of the whole enterprise. It was
accordingly named ASTORIA.
The neighboring Indians now swarmed
about the place. Some brought a few land-
otter and sea-otter skins to barter, but in
very scanty parcels ; the greater number came
prying about to gratify their curiosity, for they
are said to be impertinently inquisitive ; while
not a few came with no other design than to
pilfer ; the laws of meum and tuum being but
slightly respected among them. Some of them
beset the ship in their canoes, among whom
was the Chinook chief Comcomly, and his
liege subjects. These were well received by Mr.
M'Dougal, who was delighted with an oppor-
tunity of entering upon his functions, and
acquiring importance in the eyes of his neigh-
bors. The confusion thus produced on board,
and the derangement of the cargo caused by
this petty trade, stirred the spleen of the cap-
tain, who had a sovereign contempt for the
one-eyed chieftain and all his crew. He com-
plained loudly of having his ship lumbered by
a host of " Indian ragamuffins," who had not
a skin to dispose of, and at length put his posi-
tive interdict upon all trafficking on board.
Detention of tbe " ftonquin " 123
Upon this Mr. M'Dougal was fain to land, and
establish his quarters at the encampment,
where he could exercise his rights and enjoy
his dignities without control.
The feud, however, between these rival pow-
ers still continued, but was chiefly carried on
by letter. Day after day and week after week
elapsed, yet the store-house requisite for the
reception of the cargo was not completed, and
the ship was detained in port, while the cap-
tain was teased by frequent requisitions, for
various articles for the use of the establishment,
or the trade with the natives. An angry corre-
spondence took place, in which he complained
bitterly of the time wasted in ' ' smoking and
sporting parties," as he termed the reconnoi-
tring expeditions, and in clearing and prepar-
ing meadow ground and turnip patches, in-
stead of despatching his ship. At length all
these jarring matters were adjusted, if not to
the satisfaction, at least to the acquiescence
of all parties. The part of the cargo destined
for the use of Astoria was landed, and the ship
left free to proceed on her voyage.
As the Tonquin was to coast to the north, to
trade for peltries at the different harbors, and
to touch at Astoria on her return in the au-
tumn, it was unanimously determined that Mr.
M'Kay should go in her as supercargo, taking
124 Bstoria
with him Mr. I,ewis as ship's clerk. On the
ist of June the ship got under way, and
dropped down to Baker's Bay, where she was
detained for a few days by a head wind ; but
early in the morning of the 5th stood out to
sea with a fine breeze and swelling canvas, and
swept off gaily on her fatal voyage, from which
she was never to return !
On reviewing the conduct of Captain Thorn,
and examining his peevish and somewhat
whimsical correspondence, the impression left
upon our mind is, upon the whole, decidedly
in his favor. While we smile at the simplicity
of his heart and the narrowness of his views,
which made him regard everything out of the
direct path of his daily duty, and the rigid
exigencies of the service, as trivial and imper-
tinent, which inspired him with contempt for
the swelling vanity of some of his coadjutors,
and the literary exercises and curious re-
searches of others, we cannot but applaud that
strict and conscientious devotion to the inter-
ests of his employer, and to what he consid-
ered the true objects of the enterprise in which
he was engaged. He certainly was to blame
occasionally for the asperity of his manners,
and the arbitrary nature of his measures, yet
much that is exceptionable in this part of his
conduct may be traced to the rigid notions of
•Remarks on Captain Gborn 125
duty acquired in that tyrannical school, a ship
of war, and to the construction given by his
companions to the orders of Mr. Astor, so little
in conformity with his own. His mind, too,
appears to have become almost diseased by the
suspicions he had formed as to the loyalty of
his associates, and the nature of their ultimate
designs ; yet on this point there were circum-
stances to, in some measure, justify him. The
relations between the United States and
Great Britain were at that time in a critical
state ; in fact, the two countries were on the
eve of a war. Several of the partners were
British subjects, and might be ready to desert
the flag under which they acted, should a war
take place. Their application to the British
minister at New York shows the dubious feel-
ing with which they had embarked in the pres-
ent enterprise. They had been in the employ
of the Northwest Company, and might be dis-
posed to rally again under that association,
should events threaten the prosperity of this
embryo establishment of Mr. Astor. Besides,
we have the fact, averred to us by one of the
partners, that some of them, who were young
and heedless, took mischievous and unwarrant-
able pleasure in playing upon the jealous tem-
per of the captain, and affecting mysterious
consultations and sinister movements.
126 Bstorta
These circumstances are cited in palliation
of the doubts and surmises of Captain Thorn,
which might otherwise appear strange and un-
reasonable. That most of the partners were
perfectly upright and faithful in the dis-
charge of the trust reposed in them we are
fully satisfied ; still the honest captain was not
invariably wrong in his suspicions ; and that
he formed a pretty just opinion of the integrity
of that aspiring personage, Mr. M'Dougal, will
be substantially proved in the sequel.
Cbapter f .
Disquieting Rumors from the Interior — Preparations
for a Trading Post — A Spy in the Camp — Expedi-
tion into the Interior — Shores of the Columbia —
Mount Coffin — Columbian Valley — Vancouver's
Point— The Village of Wish-ram— Posts Estab-
lished at the Oakinagan.
WHILE the Astorians were busily oc-
cupied in completing their factory
and fort, a report was brought to
them by an Indian from the upper
part of the river, that a party of thirty white
men had appeared on the banks of the Colum-
bia, and were actually building houses at the
second rapids. This information caused much
disquiet. We have already mentioned that
the Northwest Company had established posts
to the west of the Rocky Mountains, in a dis-
trict called by them New Caledonia, which
extended from lat. 52° to 55° north, being
within the British territories. It was now
127
Bstoria
apprehended that they were advancing within
the American limits, and were endeavoring to
seize upon the upper part of the river and
forestall the American Fur Company in the
surrounding trade ; in which case bloody feuds
might be anticipated, such as had prevailed
between the rival fur companies in former da)^s.
A reconnoitring party was sent up the river
to ascertain the truth of the report. They
ascended to the foot of the first rapid, about
two hundred miles, but could hear nothing of
any white men being in the neighborhood.
Not long after their return, however, further
accounts were received, by two wandering
Indians, which established the fact, that the
Northwest Company had actually erected a
trading-house on the Spokan River, which falls
into the north branch of the Columbia.
What rendered this intelligence the more
disquieting, was the inability of the Astorians,
in their present reduced state as to numbers,
and the exigencies of their new establishment,
to furnish detachments to penetrate the country
in different directions, and fix the posts neces-
sary to secure the interior trade.
It was resolved, however, at any rate, to
advance a counter-check to this post on the
Spokan, and one of the partners, Mr. David
Stuart, prepared to set out for the purpose with
Bn TUneipectefc Brrival 129
eight men and a small assortment of goods.
He was to be guided by the two Indians, who
knew the country, and promised to take him
to a place not far from the Spokan River, and
in a neighborhood abounding with beaver.
Here he was to establish himself and to remain
for a time, provided he found the situation
advantageous and the natives friendly.
On the 1 5th of July, when Mr. Stuart was
nearly ready to embark, a canoe made its
appearance, standing for the harbor, and
manned by nine white men. Much speculation
took place who these strangers could be,
for it was too soon to expect their own people,
under Mr. Hunt, who were to cross the conti-
nent. As the canoe drew near, the British
standard was distinguished : on coming to
land, one of the crew stepped on shore, and
announced himself as Mr. David Thompson,
astronomer, and partner of the Northwest
Company. According to his account, he had
set out in the preceding year with a tolerably
strong party, and a supply of Indian goods, to
cross the Rocky Mountains. A part of his
people, however, had deserted him on the east-
ern side, and returned with the goods to the
nearest Northwest post. He had persisted in
crossing the mountains with eight men, who
had remained true to him. They had traversed
VOL. I. -Q
Bstoria
the higher regions, and ventured near the
source of the Columbia, where, in the spring,
they had constructed a cedar canoe, the same
in which they had reached Astoria.
This, in fact, was the party despatched by the
Northwest Company to anticipate Mr. Astor
in his intention of effecting a settlement at the
mouth of the Columbia River. It appears
from information subsequently derived from
other sources, that Mr. Thompson had pushed
on his course with great haste, calling at all
the Indian villages in his march, presenting
them with British flags, and even planting
them at the forks of the rivers, proclaiming
formally that he took possession of the country
in the name of the King of Great Britain for
the Northwest Company. As his original plan
was defeated by the desertion of his people, it
is probable that he descended the river simply
to reconnoitre, and ascertain whether an Ameri-
can settlement had been commenced.
Mr. Thompson was, no doubt, the first white
man who descended the northern branch of
the Columbia from so near its source. Lewis
and Clarke struck the main body of the river
at the forks, about four hundred miles from its
mouth. They entered it from Lewis River, its
southern branch, and thence descended.
Though Mr. Thompson could be considered
to tbe flnterfor 131
as little better than a spy in the camp, he was
received with great cordiality by Mr. M'Dou-
gal, who had a lurking feeling of companion-
ship and good- will for all of the Northwest
Company. He invited him to headquarters,
where he and his people were hospitably enter-
tained. Nay, further, being somewhat in
extremity, he was furnished by Mr. M'Dougal
with goods and provisions for his journey back,
across the mountains, much against the wishes
of Mr. David Stuart, who did not think the
object of his visit entitled him to any favor.
On the 23d of July, Mr. Stuart set out upon
his expedition to the interior. His party con-
sisted of four of the clerks, Messrs. Fillet, Ross,
M'L,ennon, and Montigny, two Canadian
voyageurs, and two natives of the Sandwich
Islands. They had three canoes well laden
with provisions, and with goods and necessa-
ries for a trading establishment.
Mr. Thompson and his party set out in com-
pany with them, it being his intention to pro-
ceed direct to Montreal. The partners at Astoria
forwarded by him a short letter to Mr. Astor
informing him of their safe arrival at the
mouth of the Columbia, and that they had not
yet heard of Mr. Hunt. The little squadron
of canoes set sail with a favorable breeze, and
soon passed Tongue Point, a long, high, and
132 Betoria
rocky promontory, covered with trees, and
stretching far into the river. Opposite to this,
on the northern shore, is a deep bay, where
the Columbia anchored at the time of the dis-
covery, and which is still called Gray's Bay,
from the name of her commander.
From hence, the general course of the river
for about seventy miles, was nearly southeast ;
varying in breadth according to its bays and
indentations, and navigable for vessels of three
hundred tons. The shores were in some places
high and rocky, with low marshy islands at
their feet, subject to inundation, and covered
with willows, poplars, and other trees that
love an alluvial soil. Sometimes the moun-
tains receded, and gave place to beautiful
plains and noble forests. While the river
margin was richly fringed with trees of decid-
uous foliage, the rough uplands were crowned
by majestic pines, and firs of gigantic size,
.some towering to the height of between two
and three hundred feet, with proportionate
circumference. Out of these the Indians
wrought their great canoes and pirogues.
At one part of the river, they passed, on the
northern side, an isolated rock, about one
hundred and fifty feet high rising from a low
marshy soil, and totally disconnected with the
adjacent mountains. This was held in great
Indian Sepulture 133
reverence by the neighboring Indians, being
one of their principal places of sepulture. The
same provident care for the deceased that pre-
vails among the hunting tribes of the prairies
is observable among the piscatory tribes of the
rivers and sea-coast. Among the former, the
favorite horse of the hunter is buried with him
in the same funeral mound, and his bow and
arrows are laid by his side, that he may be
perfectly equipped for the "happy hunting
grounds ' * of the land of spirits. Among the
latter, the Indian is wrapped in his mantle of
skins, laid in his canoe, with his paddle, his
fishing spear, and other implements beside
him, and placed aloft on some rock or other
eminence overlooking the river, or bay, or
lake, that he has frequented. He is thus fitted
out to launch away upon those placid streams
and sunny lakes stocked with all kinds of
fish and water- fowl, which are prepared in
the next world for those who have acquitted
themselves as good sons, good fathers, good
husbands, and, above all, good fishermen, dur-
ing their mortal sojourn.
The isolated rock in question presented a
spectacle of the kind, numerous dead bodies
being deposited in canoes on its summit ; while
on poles around were trophies, or, rather,
funeral offerings of trinkets, garments, baskets
134 Bstorfa
of roots, and other articles for the use of the
deceased. A reverential feeling protects these
sacred spots from robbery or insult. The
friends of the deceased, especially the women,
repair here at sunrise and sunset for some time
after his death, singing his funeral dirge, and
uttering loud wailings and lamentations.
From the number of dead bodies in canoes
observed upon this rock by the first explorers
of the river, it received the name of Mount
Coffin, which it continues to bear.
Beyond this rock they passed the mouth of a
river on the right bank of the Columbia, which
appeared to take its rise in a distant mountain
covered with snow. The Indian name of this
river was the Cowleskee. Some miles farther
on they came to the great Columbian Valley,
so called by Lewis and Clarke. It is sixty
miles in width, and extends far to the southeast
between parallel ridges of mountains, which
bound it on the east and west. Through the
centre of this valley flowed a large and beauti-
ful stream, called the Wallamot,* which came
wandering for several hundred miles, through
a yet unexplored wilderness. The sheltered
situation of this immense valley had an obvious
effect upon the climate. It was a region of
* Pronounced Wallamot, accent being upon the
second syllable.
Sbores ot tbe Columbia 135
great beauty and luxuriance, with lakes and
pools, and green meadows shaded by noble
groves. Various tribes were said to reside in
this valley, and along the banks of the Walla-
mot.
About eight miles above the mouth of the
Wallamot the little squadron arrived at Van-
couver's Point, so called in honor of that
celebrated voyager by his lieutenant (Brough-
ton) when he explored the river. This point
is said to present one of the most beautiful
scenes on the Columbia ; a lovely meadow,
with a silver sheet of limpid water in the centre
enlivened by wild-fowl, a range of bills
crowned by forests, while the prospect is closed
by Mount Hood, a magnificent mountain rising
into a lofty peak, and covered with snow ; the
ultimate landmarks of the first explorers of
the river.
Point Vancouver is about one hundred miles
from Astoria. Here the reflux of the tide
ceases to be perceptible. To this place vessels
of two and three hundred tons burden may
ascend. The party under the command of
Mr. Stuart had been three or four days in
reaching it, though we have forborne to notice
their daily progress and nightly encampments.
From Point Vancouver the river turned tow-
ards the northeast, and became more contracted
136 Betoria
and rapid, with occasional islands and frequent
sand-banks. These islands are furnished with
a number of ponds, and at certain seasons
abound with swans, geese, brandts, cranes,
gulls, plover, and other wild-fowl. The shores,
too, are low and closely wooded, and such an
undergrowth of vines and rushes as to be
almost impassable.
About thirty miles above Point Vancouver
the mountains again approach on both sides of
the river, which is bordered by stupendous
precipices, covered with the fir and the white ce-
dar, and enlivened occasionally by beautiful cas-
cades leaping from a great height, and sending
up wreaths of vapor. One of these precipices, or
cliffs, is curiously worn by time and weather
so as to have the appearance of a ruined for-
tress, with towers and battlements beetling
high above the river, while two small cascades,
one hundred and fifty feet in height, pitch
down from the fissures of the rocks.
The turbulence and rapidity of the current
continually augmenting as they advanced, gave
the voyagers intimation that they were ap-
proaching the great obstructions of the river,
and at length they arrived at Strawberry Isl-
and, so called by Lewis and Clarke, which lies
at the foot of the first rapid. As this part of
the Columbia will be repeatedly mentioned in
Jf alls and TRapiDs 137
the course of this work, being the scene of
some of its incidents, we shall give a general
description of it in this place.
The falls or rapids of the Columbia are situ-
ated above one hundred and eighty miles above
the mouth of the river. The first is a perpen-
dicular cascade of twenty feet, after which
there is a swift descent for a mile, between
islands of hard black rock, to another pitch of
eight feet divided by two rocks. About two
and a half miles below this river expands into
a wide basin, seemingly dammed up by a
perpendicular ridge of black rock. A current,
however, sets diagonally to the left of this
rocky barrier, where there is a chasm forty- five
yards in width. Through this the whole body
of the river roars along, swelling and whirl-
ing and boiling for some distance in the
wildest confusion. Through this tremendous
channel the intrepid explorers of the river,
I/ewis and Clarke, passed safely in their
boats ; the danger being, not from the rocks,
but from the great surges and whirlpools.
At the distance of a mile and a half from the
foot of this narrow channel is a rapid, formed
by two rocky islands ; and two miles beyond is
a second great fall, over a ledge of rocks twenty
feet high, extending nearly from shore to shore.
The river is again compressed into a channel
138 Bstorta
from fifty to a hundred feet wide, worn through
a rough bed of hard black rock, along which
it boils and roars with great fury for the dis-
tance of three miles. This is called " The
L,ong Narrows."
Here is the great fishing place of the Colum-
bia. In the spring of the year, when the water
is high, the salmon ascend the river in incredi-
ble numbers. As they pass through this nar-
row strait, the Indians, standing on the rocks,
or on the end of wooden stages projecting from
the banks, scoop them up with small nets dis-
tended on hoops and attached to long handles,
and cast them on the shore.
They are then cured and packed in a pecu-
liar manner. After having been opened and
disembowelled, they are exposed to the sun on
scaffolds erected on the river banks. When
sufficiently dry, they are pounded fine between
two stones, pressed into the smallest compass,
and packed in baskets or bales of grass mat-
ting, about two feet long and one in diameter,
lined with the cured skin of a salmon. The
top is likewise covered with fish and skins,
secured by cords passing through holes in
the edge of the basket. Packages are then
made, each containing twelve of these bales,
seven at bottom, five at top, pressed close to
each other, with the corded side upward,
B <5reat Gracing dfcart 139
wrapped in mats and corded. These are
placed in dry situations, and again covered
with matting. Kach of these packages con-
tains from ninety to a hundred pounds of dried
fish, which in this state will keep sound for
several years.*
We have given this process at some length,
as furnished by the first explorers, because it
marks a practised ingenuity in preparing arti-
cles of traffic for a market, seldom seem among
our aboriginals. For like reason we would
make especial mention of the village of Wish-
ram, at the head of the Long Narrows, as be-
ing a solitary instance of an aboriginal trading
mart, or emporium. Here the salmon caught
in the neighboring rapids were " warehoused,"
to await customers. Hither the tribes from
the mouth of the Columbia repaired with the
fish of the sea-coast, the roots, berries, and es-
pecially the wappatoo, gathered in the lower
parts of the river, together with goods and
trinkets obtained from the ships which casually
visit the coast. Hither also the tribes from
the Rocky Mountains brought down horses,
beargrass, quamash, and other commodities of
the interior. The merchant fishermen at the
falls acted as middlemen or factors, and passed
the objects of traffic, as it were, cross-handed ;
* Lewis and Clarke, vol. ii., p. 32.
140 Sstorfa
trading away part of the wares received from
the mountain tribes to those of the rivers and
plains, and vice versa. Their packages of pound-
ed salmon entered largely into the system of
barter, and being carried off in opposite
directions, found their way to the savage
hunting camps far in the interior, and to the
casual white traders who touched upon the
coast.
We have already noticed certain contrarie-
ties of character between the Indian tribes,
produced by their diet and mode of life ; and
nowhere are they more apparent than about
the falls of the Columbia. The Indians of this
great fishing mart are represented by the ear-
liest explorers as sleeker and fatter, but less
hardy and active, than the tribes of the moun-
tains and prairies, who live by hunting, or of
the upper parts of the river, where fish is
scanty, and the inhabitants must eke out their
subsistence by digging roots or chasing the
deer. Indeed, whenever an Indian of the
upper country is too lazy to hunt, yet is fond
of good living, he repairs to the falls, to live
in abundance without labor.
' ' By such worthless dogs as these, ' ' says an
honest trader in his journal, which now lies
before us, " by such worthless dogs as these are
these noted fishing-places peopled, which, like
Effects of Grade on tbc UnDians 141
our great cities, may with propriety be called
the headquarters of vitiated principles."
The habits of trade and the avidity of gain
have their corrupting effects even in the wilder-
ness, as may be instanced in the members of
this aboriginal emporium ; for the same journal-
ist denounces them as "saucy, impudent ras-
cals, who will steal when they can, and pillage
whenever a weak party falls in their power."
That he does not belie them will be evidenced
hereafter, when we have occasion again to
touch at Wish-ram and navigate the rapids.
In the present instance the travellers effected
the laborious ascent of this part of the river,
with all its various portages, without molesta-
tion, and once more launched away in smooth
water above the high falls.
The two parties continued together, without
material impediment, for three or four hundred
miles farther up the Columbia ; Mr. Thompson
appearing to take great interest in the success
of Mr. Stuart, and pointing out places favor-
able, as he said, to the establishment of his
contemplated trading post.
Mr. Stuart, who distrusted his sincerity, at
length pretended to adopt his advice, and, tak-
ing leave of him, remained as if to establish
himself, while the other proceeded on his course
towards the mountains. No sooner, however,
142 Bstoria
had he fairly departed than Mr. Stuart again
pushed forward, under guidance of the two
Indians ; nor did he stop until he had arrived
within about one hundred and forty miles of the
Spokan River, which he considered near enough
to keep the rival establishment in check.
The place which he pitched upon for his
trading post was a point of land about three
miles in length and two in breadth, formed by
the junction of the Oakinagan with the Co-
lumbia. The former is a river which has its
source in a considerable lake about one hun-
dred and fifty miles west of the point of junc-
tion. The two rivers, about the place of their
confluence, are bordered by immense prairies
covered with herbage, but destitute of trees.
The point itself was ornamented with wild
flowers of every hue, in which innumerable
humming-birds were ' ' banqueting nearly the
livelong day."
The situation of this point appeared to be
well adapted for a trading post. The climate
was salubrious, the soil fertile, the rivers well
stocked with fish, the natives peaceable and
friendly. There were easy communications
with the interior by the upper waters of the
Columbia and the lateral streams of the Oak-
inagan, while the downward current of the
Columbia furnished a highway to Astoria.
ii Mr. Stuart again
rti'.i*5' i-he two
•i op until he had arrived
forty miles of the
; dered near enough
tablishment in check,
-lace which he pitched upon for his
point of land about three
two in breadth, formed by
the Oakinagan with the Co-
lic former is a river which has its
First Interior Trading-Post of the Expedition
Based on a sketch taken for a government survey
•MVflMtt prairies
trees.
wild
The situa appeared to be
well adapted -'ting post. The climate
was salu fertile, the rivers well
stocked natives peaceable and
friendly. There were easy communications
with the interior by the upper waters of the
Columbia and the lateral streams of the Oak-
inagan, while the downward current of the
'nbia furnished a highway to Astoria.
;
{post B0tablisbeD
143
Availing himself, therefore, of the driftwood
which had collected in quantities in the neigh-
boring bends of the river, Mr. Stuart and his
men set to work to erect a house, which in a
little while was sufficiently completed for their
residence ; and thus was established the first
interior post of the company. We will now
return to notice the progress of affairs at the
mouth of the Columbia.
Gbapter f f .
Alarm at Astoria — Rumor of Indian Hostilities — Prep-
arations for Defence — Tragical Fate of the Tonquin.
THE sailing of the Tonquin, and the de-
parture of Mr. David Stuart and his
detachment, had produced a striking
effect on affairs at Astoria. The na-
tives who had swarmed about the place began
immediately to drop off, until at length not an
Indian was to be seen. This, at first, was at-
tributed to the want of peltries with which to
trade ; but in a little while the mystery was
explained in a more alarming manner. A con-
spiracy was said to be on foot among the neigh-
boring tribes to make a combined attack upon
the white men, now that they were so reduced
in number. For this purpose there had been a
gathering of warriors in a neighboring bay,
under pretext of fishing for sturgeon ; and fleets
of canoes were expected to join them from the
north and south. Even Comcomly, the one
144
Blarming "Rumors 145
eyed chief, notwithstanding his professed
friendship for Mr. M'Dougal, was strongly
suspected of being concerned in this general
combination.
Alarmed at rumors of this impending dan-
ger, the Astorians suspended their regular
labor, and set to work, with all haste, to throw
up temporary works for refuge and defence.
In the course of a few days they surrounded
their dwelling-house and magazines with a
picket-fence ninety feet square, flanked by two
bastions, on which were mounted four four-
pounders. Every day they exercised them-
selves in the use of their weapons, so as to
qualify themselves for military duty, and at
night ensconced themselves in their fortress
and posted sentinels, to guard against surprise.
In this way they hoped, even in case of attack,
to be able to hold out until the arrival of the
party to be conducted by Mr. Hunt across the
Rocky Mountains, or until the return of the
Tonquin . The latter dependence, however,
was doomed soon to be destroyed. Karly in
August, a wandering band of savages from the
Strait of Juan de Fuca, made their appearance
at the mouth of the Columbia, where they
came to fish for sturgeon. They brought dis-
astrous accounts of the Tonquin, which were
at first treated as mere fables, but which were
146 Batorfa
too sadly confirmed by a different tribe that
arrived a few days subsequently. We shall
relate the circumstances of this melancholy
affair as correctly as the casual discrepancies
in the statements that have reached us will
permit.
We have already stated that the Tonquin set
sail from the mouth of the river on the fifth of
June. The whole number of persons on board
amounted to twenty-three. In one of the outer
bays they picked up, from a fishing canoe, an
Indian named Lamazee, who had already made
two voyages along the coast, and knew some-
thing of the languages of the various tribes.
He agreed to accompany them as interpreter.
Steering to the north, Captain Thorn ar-
rived in a few days at Vancouver's Island, and
anchored in the harbor of Neweetee, very much
against the advice of his Indian interpreter,
who warned him against the perfidious char-
acter of the natives of this part of the coast.
Numbers of canoes soon came off, bringing
sea-otter skins to sell. It was too late in the
day to commence a traffic, but Mr. M'Kay,
accompanied by a few of the men, went on
shore to a large village to visit Wicananish,
the chief of the surrounding territory, six of
the natives remaining on board as hostages.
He was received with great professions of
an& fluffing 147
friendship, entertained hospitably, and a couch
of sea-otter skins was prepared for him in the
dwelling of the chieftain, where he was pre-
vailed upon to pass the night.
In the morning, before Mr. M'Kay had re-
turned to the ship, great numbers of the na-
tives came off in their canoes to trade, headed
by two sons of Wicananish. As they brought
abundance of sea-otter skins, and there was
every appearance of a brisk trade, Captain
Thorn did not wait for the return of Mr.
M'Kay, but spread his wares upon deck, mak-
ing a tempting display of blankets, cloths,
knives, beads, and fish-hooks, expecting a
prompt and profitable sale. The Indians,
however, were not so eager and simple as he
had supposed, having learned the art of bar-
gaining and the value of merchandise from the
casual traders along the coast. They were
guided, too, by a shrewd old chief named
Nookamis, who had grown gray in traffic with
New England skippers, and prided himself
upon his acuteness. His opinion seemed to
regulate the market. When Captain Thorn
made what he considered a liberal offer for an
otter-skin, the wily old Indian treated it with
scorn, and asked more than double. His com-
rades all took their cue from him, and not an
otter-skin was to be had at a reasonable rate.
Bstoria
The old fellow, however, overshot his mark,
and mistook the character of the man he was
treating with. Thorn was a plain, straightfor-
ward sailor, who never had two minds nor two
prices in his dealings, was deficient in patience
and pliancy, and totally wanting in the chican-
ery of traffic. He had a vast deal of stern but
honest pride in his nature, and, moreover, held
the whole savage race in sovereign contempt.
Abandoning all further attempts, therefore, to
bargain with his shuffling customers, he thrust
his hands into his pockets, and paced up and
down the deck in sullen silence. The cunning
old Indian followed him to and fro, holding
out a sea-otter skin to him at every turn, and
pestering him to trade. Finding other means
unavailing, he suddenly changed his tone, and
began to jeer and banter him upon the mean
prices he offered. This was too much for the
patience of the captain, who was never remark-
able for relishing a joke, especially when at his
own expense. Turning suddenly upon his
persecutor, he snatched the proffered otter-skin
from his hands, rubbed it in his face, and dis-
missed him over the side of the ship with no
very complimentary application to accelerate
his exit. He then kicked the peltries to the
right and left about the deck, and broke up
the market in the most ignominious manner.
B DeaDlg flnsult 149
Old Nookamis made for shore in a furious
passion, in which he was joined by Shewish,
one of the sons of Wicananish, who went off
breathing vengeance, and the ship was soon
abandoned by the natives.
When Mr. M'Kay returned on board, the
interpreter related what had passed, and begged
him to prevail upon the captain to make sail,
as from his knowledge of the temper and pride
of the people of the place, he was sure they
would resent the indignity offered to one of
their chiefs. Mr. M'Kay, who himself pos-
sessed some experience of Indian character,
went to the captain, who was still pacing the
deck in moody humor, represented the danger
to which his hasty act had exposed the vessel,
and urged him to weigh anchor. The captain
made light of his counsels, and pointed to his
cannon and fire-arms as sufficient safeguard
against naked savages. Further remonstrances
only provoked taunting replies and sharp alter-
cations. The day passed away without any
signs of hostility, and at night the captain re-
tired as usual to his cabin, taking no more
than the usual precautions.
On the following morning, at daybreak,
while the captain and Mr. M'Kay were yet
asleep, a canoe came alongside in which were
twenty Indians, commanded by young Shew-
Bstorta
ish. They were unarmed, their aspect and
demeanor friendly, and they held up otter-
skins, and made signs indicative of a wish to
trade. The caution enjoined by Mr. Astor, in
respect to the admission of Indians on board
of the ship, had been neglected for some time
past, and the officer of the watch, perceiving
those in the canoe to be without weapons, and
having received no orders to the contrary,
readily permitted them to mount the deck.
Another canoe soon succeeded, the crew of
which was likewise admitted. In a little while
other canoes came off, and Indians were soon
clambering into the vessel on all sides.
The officer of the watch now felt alarmed,
and called to Captain Thorn and Mr. M'Kay.
By the time they came on deck, it was
thronged with Indians. The interpreter no-
ticed to Mr. M'Kay that many of the natives
wore short mantles of skins, and intimated a
suspicion that they were secretly armed. Mr.
M'Kay urged the captain to clear the ship and
get under way. He again made light of the
advice ; but the augmented swarm of canoes
about the ship, and the numbers still putting
off from shore, at length awakened his dis-
trust, and he ordered some of the crew to
weigh anchor, while some were sent aloft to
make sail.
Massacre of tbe Crew 151
The Indians now offered to trade with the
captain on his own terms, prompted, appar-
ently, by the approaching departure of the
ship. Accordingly, a hurried trade was com-
menced. The main articles sought by the
savages in barter were knives ; as fast as some
were supplied they moved off, and others suc-
ceeded. By degrees they were thus distributed
about the deck, and all with weapons.
The anchor was now nearly up, the sails
were loose, and the captain, in a loud and per-
emptory tone, ordered the ship to be cleared.
In an instant, a signal yell was given ; it was
echoed on every side, knives and war-clubs
were brandished in every direction, and the
savages rushed upon their marked victims.
The first that fell was Mr. L,ewis, the ship's
clerk. He was leaning, with folded arms, over
a bale of blankets, engaged in bargaining,
when he received a deadly stab in the back,
and fell down the companion-way.
Mr. M'Kay, who was seated on the taffrail,
sprang on his feet, but was instantly knocked
down with a war-club and flung backwards
into the sea, where he was despatched by the
women in the canoes.
In the meantime Captain Thorn made des-
perate fight against fearful odds. He was a
powerful as well as a resolute man, but he had
Bstoria
come upon deck without weapons. Shewish,
the young chief, singled him out as his peculiar
prey, and rushed upon him at the first out-
break. The captain had barely time to draw
a clasp-knife, with one blow of which he laid
the young savage dead at his feet. Several of
the stoutest followers of Shewish now set upon
him. He defended himself vigorously, dealing
crippling blows to right and left, and strewing
the quarter-deck with the slain and wounded.
His object was to fight his way to the cabin,
where there were fire-arms ; but he was hemmed
in with foes, covered with wounds, and faint
with loss of blood. For an instant he leaned
upon the tiller wheel, when a blow from be-
hind, with a war-club, felled him to the deck,
where he was despatched with knives and
thrown overboard.
While this was transacting upon the quarter-
deck, a chance-medley fight was going on
throughout the ship. The crew fought des-
perately with knives, handspikes, and what-
ever weapon they could seize upon in the mo-
ment of surprise. They were soon, however,
overpowered by numbers, and mercilessly
butchered.
As to the seven who had been sent aloft to
make sail, they contemplated with horror the
carnage that was going on below. Being des-
Survivors of tbe Conflict 153
titute of weapons, they let themselves down
by the running rigging, in hopes of getting
between decks. One fell in the attempt, and
was instantly despatched ; another received a
death-blow in the back as he was descending ;
a third, Stephen Weekes, the armorer, was
mortally wounded as he was getting down the
hatchway.
The remaining four made good their retreat
into the cabin, where they found Mr. I^ewis,
still alive, though mortally wounded. Barri-
cading the cabin door, they broke holes through
the companion-way, and, with the muskets
and ammunition which were at hand, opened
a brisk fire that soon cleared the deck.
Thus far the Indian interpreter, from whom
these particulars are derived, had been an eye-
witness to the deadly conflict. He had taken
no part in it, and had been spared by the na-
tives as being of their race. In the confusion
of the moment he took refuge with the rest, in
the canoes. The survivors of the crew now
sallied forth, and discharged some of the deck
guns, which did great execution among the
canoes, and drove all the savages to shore.
For the remainder of the day no one ven-
tured to put off to the ship, deterred by the
effects of the fire-arms. The night passed
away without any further attempt on the part
154 Bstorta
of the natives. When the day dawned, the
Tonquin still lay at anchor in the bay, her
sails all loose and flapping in the wind, and no
one apparently on board of her. After a time,
some of the canoes ventured forth to recon-
noitre, taking with them the interpreter. They
paddled about her, keeping cautiously at a
distance, but growing more and more embold-
ened at seeing her quiet and lifeless. One man
at length made his appearance 011 the deck,
and was recognized by the interpreter as Mr.
Lewis. He made friendly signs, and invited
them on board. It was long before they ven-
tured to comply. Those who mounted the
deck met with no opposition ; no one was to
be seen on board ; for Mr. Lewis, after inviting
them, had disappeared. Other canoes now
pressed forward to board the prize; the decks
were soon crowded, and the sides covered with
clambering savages, all intent on plunder. In
the midst of their eagerness and exultation,
the ship blew up with a tremendous explosion.
Arms, legs, and mutilated bodies were blown
into the air, and dreadful havoc was made in
the surrounding canoes. The interpreter was
in the main-chains at the time of the explosion,
and was thrown unhurt into the water, where
he succeeded in getting into one of the canoes.
According to his statement, the bay presented
a Disastrous Bjplosion 155
an awful spectacle after the catastrophe. The
ship had disappeared, but the bay was covered
with fragments of the wreck, with shattered
canoes, and Indians swimming for their lives,
or struggling in the agonies of death ; while
those who had escaped the danger remained
aghast and stupefied, or made with frantic
panic for the shore. Upwards of a hundred
savages were destroyed by the explosion, many
more were shockingly mutilated, and for days
afterwards the limbs and bodies of the slain
were thrown upon the beach.
The inhabitants of Neweetee were over-
whelmed with consternation at this astounding
calamity, which had burst upon them in the
very moment of triumph. The warriors sat
mute and mournful, while the women filled the
air with loud lamentations. Their weeping
and wailing, however, was suddenly changed
into yells of fury at the sight of four unfortu-
nate white men, brought captive into the vil-
lage. They had been driven on shore in one
of the ship's boats, and taken at some distance
along the coast.
The interpreter was permitted to converse
with them. They proved to be the four brave
fellows who had made such desperate defence
from the cabin. The interpreter gathered from
them some of the particulars already related.
i $6 Bstoria
They told him further, that after they had
beaten off the enemy and cleared the ship,
Lewis advised that they should slip the cable
and endeavor to get to sea. They declined to
take his advice, alleging that the wind set too
strongly into the bay and would drive them on
shore. They resolved, as soon as it was dark,
to put off quietly in the ship's boat, which
they would be able to do un perceived, and to
coast along back to Astoria. They put their
resolution into effect ; but Lewis refused to ac-
company them, being disabled by his wound,
hopeless of escape, and determined on a terri-
ble revenge. On the voyage out, he had re-
peatedly expressed a sentiment that he should
die by his own hands ; thinking it highly prob-
able that he should be engaged in some contest
with the natives, and being resolved, in case of
extremity, to commit suicide rather than be
made a prisoner. He now declared his inten-
tion to remain on board of the ship until day-
light, to decoy as many of the savages on
board as possible, then to set fire to the powder
magazine, and terminate his life by a signal act
of vengeance. How well he succeeded has
been shown. His companions bade him a
melancholy adieu, and set off on their precari-
ous expedition. They strove with might and
main to get out of the bay, but found it impos-
Savage Grueltg 157
sible to weather a point of land, and were at
length compelled to take shelter in a small cove,
where they hoped to remain concealed until the
wind should be more favorable. Exhausted by
fatigue and watching, they fell into a sound
sleep, and in that state were surprised by the
savages. Better had it been for those unfortu-
nate men had they remained with Lewis, and
shared his heroic death : as it was, they per-
ished in a more painful and protracted manner,
being sacrificed by the natives to the manes of
their friends with all the lingering tortures of
savage cruelty. Some time after their death,
the interpreter, who had remained a kind of
prisoner at large, effected his escape, and
brought the tragical tidings to Astoria.
Such is the melanchoty story of the Tonquin,
and such was the fate of her brave, but head-
strong commander, and her adventurous crew.
It is a catastrophe that shows the importance,
in all enterprises of moment, to keep in mind
the general instructions of the sagacious heads
which devise them. Mr. Astor was well aware
of the perils to which ships were exposed on this
coast from quarrels with the natives, and from
perfidious attempts of the latter to surprise and
capture them in unguarded moments. He had
repeatedly enjoined it upon Captain Thorn, in
conversation, and at parting, in his letter of
158 Sstoria
instructions, to be courteous and kind in his
dealings with the savages, but by no means to
confide in their apparent friendship, nor to ad-
mit more than a few on board of his ship at a
time.
Had the deportment of Captain Thorn been
properly regulated, the insult so wounding to
savage pride would never have been given.
Had he enforced the rule to admit but a few at
a time, the savages would not have been able
to get the mastery. He was too irritable, how-
ever, to practice the necessary self-command,
and, having been nurtured in a proud contempt
of danger, thought it beneath him to manifest
any fear of a crew of unarmed savages.
With all his faults and foibles, we cannot
but speak of him with esteem, and deplore his
untimely fate ; for we remember him well in
early life, as a companion in pleasant scenes
and joyous hours. When on shore, among
his friends, he was a frank, manly, sound-
hearted sailor. On board ship he evidently
assumed the hardness of deportment and stern-
ness of demeanor which many deem essential
to naval service. Throughout the whole of the
expedition, however, he showed himself loyal,
single-minded, straightforward, and fearless ;
and if the fate of his vessel may be charged
to his harshness and imprudence, we should
Xoss of tbe " Gonquin " 159
recollect that he paid for his error with his
life.
The loss of the Tonquin was a grievous blow
to the infant establishment of Astoria, and one
that threatened to bring after it a train of dis-
asters. The intelligence of it did not reach
Mr. Astor until many months afterwards. He
felt it in all its force, and was aware that it
must cripple, if not entirely defeat, the great
scheme of his ambition. In his letters, writ-
ten at the time, he speaks of it as * ' a calamity,
the length of which he could not foresee."
He indulged, however, in no weak and vain
lamentation, but sought to devise a prompt and
efficient remedy. The very same evening he
appeared at the theatre with his usual serenity
of countenance. A friend, who knew the dis-
astrous intelligence he had received, expressed
his astonishment that he could have calmness
of spirit sufficient for such a scene of light
amusement. ' ' What would you have me do ? "
was his characteristic reply ; ' ' would you have
me stay at home and weep for what I cannot
help?"
Cbapter
Gloom at Astoria — An Ingenious Stratagem — The
Small-pox Chief— Launching of the Dolly — A Cana-
dian Trapper — An Iroquois Hunter — Winter on the
Columbia — Festivities of New Year.
THE tidings of the loss of the Tonquin,
and the massacre of her crew, struck
dismay into the hearts of the Astorians.
They found themselves a mere handful
of men, on a savage coast, surrounded by hos-
tile tribes, who would doubtless be incited and
encouraged to deeds of violence by the late
fearful catastrophe. In this juncture Mr.
M'Dougal, we are told, had recourse to a strat-
agem by which to avail himself of the igno-
rance and credulity of the savages, and which
certainly does credit to his ingenuity.
The natives of the coast, and, indeed, of all
the regions west of the mountains, had an
extreme dread of the small-pox ; that terrific
scourge having, a few years previously, ap-
160
•
Cbapter Jfff .
Gloom at Astoria — An Ingenious Stratagem — The
Small-pox Chief— Launching of the Dolly — A Cana-
dian Trappei mois Hunter— Winter on the
Columbi wYear.
T£ tidiij Astoria in 1811 ->f the ^onquin,
Based on a print in Gray's - History of Oregon "
They fo ndful
of men, on a savage coast hos-
tile tribes, who would doubtless be incited and
encouraged t violence by the late
fearful cata-.; i this juncture Mr.
M'P told, had recourse to a strat-
agem by which to avail himself of the igno-
rance and credulity of the savages, and which
certainly does credit to his ingenuity.
The natives of the coast, and, indeed, of all
the regions west of the mountains, had an
extreme dread of the small-pox ; that terrific
scourge having, a few years previously, ap-
160
s stratagem 161
peared among them, and almost swept off
entire tribes. Its origin and nature were
wrapped in mystery, and they conceived it an
evil inflicted upon them by the Great Spirit,
or brought among them by the white men.
The last idea was seized upon by Mr. M'Dou-
gal. He assembled several of the chieftains
whom he believed to be in the conspiracy.
When they were all seated around, he informed
them that he had heard of the treachery of
some of their northern brethren towards the
Tonquin, and was determined on vengeance.
"The white men among you," said he, "are
few in number, it is true, but they are mighty
in medicine. See here," continued he, draw-
ing forth a small bottle and holding it before
their eyes, ' ' in this bottle I hold the small-
pox, safely corked up ; I have but to draw the
cork, and let loose the pestilence, to sweep
man, woman, and child from the face of the
earth. ' '
The chiefs were struck with horror and
alarm. They implored him not to uncork the
bottle, since they and all their people were
firm friends of the white men, and would al-
ways remain so ; but, should the small-pox
be once let out, it would run like wildfire
throughout the country, sweeping off the good
as well as the bad ; and surely he would not
162 Bstorta
be so unjust as to punish his friends for crimes
committed by his enemies.
Mr. M'Dougal pretended to be convinced by
their reasoning, and assured them that, so long
as the white people should be unmolested, and
the conduct of their Indian neighbors friendly
and hospitable, the phial of wrath should re-
main sealed up ; but, on the least hostility,
the fatal cork should be drawn.
From this time, it is added, he was much
dreaded by the natives, as one who held their
fate in his hands, and was called, by way of
pre-eminence, "the Great Small-pox Chief."
All this while, the labors at the infant set-
tlement went on with unremitting assiduity,
and, by the 26th of September, a commodious
mansion, spacious enough to accommodate all
hands, was completed. It was built of stone
and clay, there being no calcareous stone in
the neighborhood from which lime for mortar
could be procured. The schooner was also
finished, and launched, with the accustomed
ceremony, on the 2d of October, and took her
station below the fort. She was named the
Dolly, and was the first American vessel
launched on this coast.
On the 5th of October, in the evening, the
little community at Astoria was enlivened by
the unexpected arrival of a detachment from
3n arrival from ©afcfnagan 163
Mr. David Stuart's post on the Oakinagan.
It consisted of two of the clerks and two of
the privates. They brought favorable accounts
of the new establishment, but reported that, as
Mr. Stuart was apprehensive there might be a
difficulty of subsisting his whole party through-
out the winter, he had sent one half back to
Astoria, retaining with him only Ross, Mon-
tigny, and two others. Such is the hardihood
of the Indian trader. In the heart of a savage
and unknown country, seven hundred miles
from the main body of his fellow-adventurers,
Stuart had dismissed half of his little number,
and was prepared with the residue to brave all
the perils of the wilderness, and the rigors of
a long and dreary winter.
With the return party came a Canadian cre-
ole named Regis Brugiere and an Iroquois
hunter, with his wife and two children. As
these two personages belong to certain classes
which have derived their peculiar characteris-
tics from the fur trade, we deem some few
particulars concerning them pertinent to the
nature of this work.
Brugiere was of a class of beaver trappers
and hunters technically called "Freemen," in
the language of the traders. They are gener-
ally Canadians by birth, and of French de-
scent, who have been employed for a term of
1 64 Bstoria
years by some fur company, but, their term
being expired, continue to hunt and trap on
their own account, trading with the company
like the Indians. Hence they derive their ap-
pellation of Freemen, to distinguish them from
the trappers who are bound for a number of
years, and receive wages, or hunt on shares.
Having passed their early youth in the wil-
derness, separated almost entirely from civil-
ized man, and in frequent intercourse with the
Indians, they relapse, with a facility common
to human nature, into the habitudes of savage
life. Though no longer bound by engage-
ments to continue in the interior, they have
become so accustomed to the freedom of the
forest and the prairie, that they look back with
repugnance upon the restraints of civilization.
Most of them intermarry with the natives, and,
like the latter, have often a plurality of wives.
Wanderers of the wilderness, according to the
vicissitudes of the seasons, the migrations of
animals, and the plenty or scarcity of game,
they lead a precarious and unsettled existence ;
exposed to sun and storm, and all kinds of
hardships, until they resemble Indians in com-
plexion as well as in tastes and habits. From
time to time, they bring the peltries they have
collected to the trading houses of the company
in whose employ they have been brought up.
B ff reeman of tbc fforest 165
Here they traffic them away for such articles
of merchandise or ammunition as they may
stand in need of. At the time when Montreal
was the great emporium of the fur trader, one
of these freemen of the wilderness would sud-
denly return, after an absence of many years,
among his old friends and comrades. He
would be greeted as one risen from the dead ;
and with the greater welcome, as he returned
flush of money. A short time, however, spent
in revelry, would be sufficient to drain his
purse and sate him with civilized life, and he
would return with new relish to the unshac-
kled freedom of the forest.
Numbers of men of this class were scattered
throughout the northwest territories. Some of
them retained a little of the thrift and fore-
thought of the civilized man, and became
wealthy among their improvident neighbors ;
their wealth being chiefly displayed in large
bands of horses, which covered the prairies in
the vicinity of their abodes. Most of them,
however, were prone to assimilate to the red
man in their heedlessness of the future.
Such was Regis Brugiere, a freeman and
rover of the wilderness. Having been brought
up in the service of the Northwest Company,
he had followed in the train of one of its expe-
ditions across the Rocky Mountains, and un-
166 Bstorfa
dertaken to trap for the trading post established
on the Spokan River. In the course of his
hunting excursions he had either accidentally,
or designedly, found his way to the post of Mr.
Stuart, and had been prevailed upon to descend
the Columbia, and " try his luck " at Astoria.
Ignace Shonowane, the Iroquois hunter, was
a specimen of a different class. He was one of
those aboriginals of Canada who had partially
conformed to the habits of civilization and the
doctrines of Christianity, under the influence
of the French colonists and the Catholic
priests ; who seem generally to have been more
successful in conciliating, taming, and convert-
ing the savages, than their Knglish and
Protestant rivals. These half-civilized Indians
retained some of the good, and many of the
evil qualities of their original stock. They
were firstrate hunters, and dexterous in the
management of the canoe. They could un-
dergo great privations, and were admirable for
the service of the rivers, lakes, and forests, pro-
vided they could be kept sober, and in proper
subordination ; but once inflamed with liquor,
to which they were madly addicted, all the
dormant passions inherent in their nature were
prone to break forth, and to hurry them into
the most vindictive and bloody acts of violence.
Though they generally professed the Roman
Bpproacbing TOnter 167
Catholic religion, yet it was mixed, occasion-
ally, with some of their ancient superstitions ;
and they retained much of the Indian belief in
charms and omens. Numbers of these men
were employed by the Northwest Company as
trappers, hunters, and canoe men, but on lower
terms than were allowed to white men. Ignace
Shonowane had, in this way, followed the en-
terprise of the company to the banks of the
Spokan, being, probably, one of the first of his
tribe that had traversed the Rocky Mountains.
Such were some of the motley populace of
the wilderness, incident to the fur trade, who
were gradually attracted to the new settlement
of Astoria.
The month of October now began to give
indications of approaching winter. Hitherto,
the colonists had been well pleased with the
climate. The summer had been temperate, the
mercury never rising above eighty degrees.
Westerly winds had prevailed during the spring
and the early part of the summer, and been suc-
ceeded by fresh breezes from the northwest. In
the month of October the southerly winds set
in, bringing with them frequent rain.
The Indians now began to quit the borders
of the ocean, and to retire to their winter quar-
ters in the sheltered bosom of the forests, or
along the small rivers and brooks. The rainy
i68 Bstoria
season, which commences in October, contin-
ues, with little intermission, until April ; and
though the winters are generally mild, the
mercury seldom sinking below the freezing
point, yet the tempests of wind and rain are
terrible. The sun is sometimes obscured for
weeks, the brooks swell into roaring torrents,
and the country is threatened with a deluge.
The departure of the Indians to their winter
quarters gradually rendered provisions scanty,
and obliged the colonists to send out foraging
expeditions in the Dolly. Still the little hand-
ful of adventurers kept up their spirits in their
lonely fort at Astoria, looking forward to the
time when they should be animated and rein-
forced by the party under Mr. Hunt, that was
to come to them across the Rocky Mountains.
The year gradually wore away. The rain,
which had poured down almost incessantly
since the first of October, cleared up towards
the evening of the 3ist of December, and the
morning of the ist of January ushered in a day
of sunshine.
The hereditary French holiday spirit of the
French voyageurs is hardly to be depressed by
any adversities ; and they can manage to get
up &f£te in the most squalid situations, and un-
der the most untoward circumstances. An ex-
tra allowance of rum, and a little flour to make
flew i^ear ^festivities 169
cakes and puddings, constitute a ' * regale ' ' ;
and thej7 forget all their toils and troubles in
the song and dance.
On the present occasion, the partners endeav-
ored to celebrate the new year with some effect.
At sunrise the drums beat to arms, the colors
were hoisted, with three rounds of small-arms
and three discharges of cannon. The day was
devoted to games of agility and strength, and
other amusements ; and grog was temperately
distributed, together with bread, butter, and
cheese. The best dinner their circumstances
could afford was served up at midday. At sun-
set the colors were lowered, with another dis-
charge of artillery. The night was spent in
dancing ; and, though there was a lack of
female partners to excite their gallantry, the
voyageurs kept up the ball with true French
spirit, until three o'clock in the morning. So
passed the New Year festival of 1812 at the
infant colony of Astoria.
Cbapter £ 1Tinr.
Expedition by Land — Wilson P. Hunt — Donald
M'Kenzie — Chapel of St. Anne — Mackinaw — Pic-
ture of a Trading Post — Inefficacy of Gold — Mr.
Ramsay Crooks — His Warning Concerning Sioux
and Blackfeet — Embarkation of Recruits.
WK have followed up the fortunes of
the maritime part of this enterprise
to the shores of the Pacific, and
have conducted the affairs of the
embryo establishment to the opening of the
new year ; let us now turn back to the adven-
turous band to whom was intrusted the land
expedition, and who were to make their way
to the mouth of the Columbia, up vast rivers,
across trackless plains, and over the rugged
barriers of the Rocky Mountains.
The conduct of this expedition, as has been
already mentioned, was assigned to Mr. Wilson
Price Hunt, of Trenton, New Jersey, one of
the partners of the company, who was ulti-
Xanfc Bipefcltfon 171
mately to be at the head of the establishment
at the mouth of the Columbia. He is repre-
sented as a man scrupulously upright and faith-
ful in his dealings, amicable in his disposition,
and of most accommodating manners ; and his
whole conduct will be found in unison with
such a character. He was not practically ex-
perienced in the Indian trade ; that is to say,
he had never made any expeditions of traffic
into the heart of the wilderness, but he had
been engaged in commerce at St. L,ouis, then
a frontier settlement on the Mississippi, where
the chief branch of his business had consisted
in furnishing Indian traders with goods and
equipments. In this way, he had acquired
much knowledge of the trade at second hand,
and of the various tribes, and the interior coun-
try over which it extended.
Another of the partners, Mr. Donald M'Ken-
zie, was associated with Mr. Hunt in the ex-
pedition, and excelled on those points in which
the other was deficient ; for he had been ten
years in the interior, in the service of the
Northwest Company, and valued himself oti
his knowledge of ' ' woodcraft, ' ' and the strat-
egy of Indian trade and Indian warfare. He
had a frame seasoned to toils and hardships ; a.
spirit not to be intimidated, and was reputed
to be a "remarkable shot" ; which, of itself.
172 Bstoria
was sufficient to give him renown upon the
frontier.
Mr. Hunt and his coadjutor repaired, about
the latter part of July, 1810, to Montreal, the
ancient emporium of the fur trade, where every-
thing requisite for the expedition could be pro-
cured. One of the first objects was to recruit
a complement of Canadian voyageurs from the
disbanded herd usually to be found loitering
about the place. A degree of jockeyship, how-
ever, is required for this service, for a Canadian
voyageur is as full of latent tricks and vice as
a horse ; and when he makes the greatest ex-
ternal promise, is prone to prove the greatest
" take in." Besides, the Northwest Company,
who maintained a long-established control at
Montreal, and knew the qualities of every
voyageur, secretly interdicted the prime hands
from engaging in this new service ; so that,
although liberal terms were offered, few pre-
sented themselves but such as were not worth
having.
From these Mr. Hunt engaged a number
sufficient, as he supposed, for present purposes ;
and, having laid in a supply of ammunition,
provisions, and Indian goods, embarked all on
board one of those great canoes at that time
universally used by the fur traders for navigat-
ing the intricate and often obstructed rivers.
Canoe 173
The canoe was between thirty and forty feet
long, and several feet in width ; constructed of
birch bark, sewed with fibres of the roots of
the spruce tree, and daubed with resin of the
pine, instead of tar. The cargo was made up
in packages, weighing from ninety to one hun-
dred pounds each, for the facility of loading
and unloading, and of transportation at port-
ages. The canoe itself, though capable of sus-
taining a freight of upwards of four tons,
could readily be carried on men's shoulders.
Canoes of this size are generally managed by
eight or ten men, two of whom are picked
veterans, who receive double wages, and are
stationed, one at the bow and the other at the
stern, to keep a look-out and to steer. They
are termed the foreman and the steersman.
The rest, who ply the paddles, are called mid-
dle men. When there is a favorable breeze,
the canoe is occasionally navigated with a sail .
The expedition took its regular departure,
as usual, from St. Anne's, near the extremity
of the island of Montreal, the great starting-
place of the traders to the interior. Here stood
the ancient chapel of St. Anne, the patroness
of the Canadian voyageurs ; where they made
confession, and offered up their vows, previous
to departing on any hazardous expedition.
The shrine of the saint was decorated with
174 Bstoria
relics and votive offerings hung up by these
superstitious beings, either to propitiate her
favor, or in gratitude for some signal deliver-
ance in the wilderness. It was the custom,
too, of these devout vagabonds, after leaving
the chapel, to have a grand carouse, in honor
of the saint and for the prosperity of the voy-
age. In this part of their devotions, the crew
of Mr. Hunt proved themselves by no means
deficient. Indeed, he soon discovered that his
recruits, enlisted at Montreal, were fit to vie
with the ragged regiment of Falstaff. Some
were able-bodied, but inexpert ; others were
expert, but lazy ; while a third class were ex-
pert and willing, but totally worn out, being
broken-down veterans, incapable of toil.
With this inefficient crew he made his way
up the Ottawa River, and by the ancient route
of the fur traders, along a succession of small
lakes and rivers, to Michilimackinac. Their
progress was slow and tedious. Mr. Hunt was
not accustomed to the management of voy-
ageurs, and he had a crew admirably dis-
posed to play the old soldier, and balk their
work ; and ever ready to come to a halt, land,
make a fire, put on the great pot, and smoke,
and gossip, and sing by the hour.
It was not until the 22d of July that they
arrived at Mackinaw, situated on the island of
i74 B0toda
wiir r*g up by these
ious bein to propitiate her
r, or in i: -tie signal deliver-
ance in *s. It was the custom,
too, of t! vagabonds, after leaving
the chap «, grand carouse, in honor
of the saint and for the prosperity of the voy-
age. In this part of their devotions, the crew
of Mr. Hunt proved themselves by no means
deficient. Indeed, he soon discovered that his
recruits, enlisted at Montreal, were fit to vie
with the ragged regiment of Fabtaff, Some
^sMttki88^11 ' others
expert, : Redrawnfto^fe|te^fik^^
pert and willing, but totally -ing
brol
way
oute
^inall
progress wa,< >. Mr. Hunt was
storoed management of voy-
ag>curst and he had a crew admirably dis-
1 to play the old soldier, and balk their
work ; and ever ready to come to a halt, land,
make a fire, put on the great pot, and smoke,
and gossip, and sing by the hour.
It was not until the 22d of July that they
arrived at Mackinaw, situated on the island of
•
i
flfcacfetnaw 175
the same name, at the confluence of lakes
Huron and Michigan. This famous old French
trading-post continued to be a rallying point
for a multifarious and motley population. The
inhabitants were amphibious in their habits,
most of them being, or having been voyageurs
or canoe men. It was the great place of ar-
rival and departure of the southwest fur trade.
Here the Mackinaw Company had established
its principal post, from whence it communicated
with the interior and with Montreal. Hence
its various traders and trappers set out for
their respective destinations about Lake Su-
perior and its tributary waters, or for the
Mississippi, the Arkansas, the Missouri, and
the other regions of the west. Here, after the
absence of a year, or more, they returned with
their peltries, and settled their accounts ; the
furs rendered in by them being transmitted in
canoes from hence to Montreal. Mackinaw
was, therefore, for a great part of the year,
very scantily peopled ; but at certain seasons
the traders arrived from all points, with their
crews of voyageurs, and the place swarmed
like a hive.
Mackinaw, at that time, was a mere village,
stretching along a small bay, with a fine broad
beach in front of its principal row of houses,
and dominated by the old fort, which crowned
Bstoria
an impending height. The beach was a kind
of public promenade, where were displayed all
the vagaries of a seaport on the arrival of a
fleet from a long cruise. Here voyageurs frol-
icked away their wages, fiddling and dancing
in the booths and cabins, buying all kinds of
knick-knacks, dressing themselves out finely,
and parading up and down, like arrant brag-
garts and coxcombs. Sometimes they met
with rival coxcombs in the young Indians from
the opposite shore, who would appear on the
beach painted and decorated in fantastic style,
and would saunter up and down, to be gazed
at and admired, perfectly satisfied that they
eclipsed their pale-faced competitors.
Now and then a chance party of ' ' North-
westers ' * appeared at Mackinaw from the
rendezvous at Fort William. These held
themselves up as the chivalry of the fur trade.
They were men of iron ; proof against cold
weather, hard fare, and perils of all kinds.
Some would wear the Northwest button, and
a formidable dirk, and assume something of a
military air. They generally wore feathers in
their hats, and afiected the " brave." "Je
suis un homme du nord ! " — "I am a man of
the north," — one of those swelling fellows
would exclaim, sticking his arms akimbo and
ruffling by the Southwesters, whom he regarded
Swells anD Swaggerers 177
with great contempt, as men softened by mild
climates and the luxurious fare of bread and
bacon, and whom he stigmatized with the in-
glorious name of pork-eaters. The superiority
assumed by these vainglorious swaggerers was,
in general, tacitly admitted. Indeed, some of
them had acquired great notoriety for deeds of
hardihood and courage ; for the fur trade had
its heroes, whose names resounded throughout
the wilderness.
Such was Mackinaw at the time of which
we are treating. It now, doubtless, presents a
totally different aspect. The fur companies no
longer assemble there ; the navigation of the
lakes is carried on by steamboats and various
shipping, and the race of traders, and trappers,
and voyageurs, and Indian dandies, have
vapored out their brief hour and disappeared.
Such changes does the lapse of a handful of
years make in this ever-changing country.
At this place Mr. Hunt remained for some
time, to complete his assortment of Indian
goods, and to increase his number of voyageurs,
as well as to engage some of a more efficient
character than those enlisted at Montreal.
And now commenced another game of jockey-
ship. There were able and efficient men in
abundance at Mackinaw, but for several days
not one presented himself. If offers were made
178 astoria
to any, they were listened to with a shake of
the head. Should any one seem inclined to
enlist, there were officious idlers and busy-
bodies, of that class who are ever ready to dis-
suade others from any enterprise in which
they themselves have no concern . These would
pull him by the sleeve, take him on one side,
and would murmur in his ear, or would sug-
gest difficulties outright.
It was objected that the expedition would
have to navigate unknown rivers, and pass
through howling wildernesses infested by savage
tribes, who had already cut off the unfortunate
voyageurs that had ventured among them ;
that it was to climb the Rocky Mountains and
descend into desolate and famished regions,
where the traveller was often obliged to subsist
on grasshoppers and crickets, or to kill his own
horse for food.
At length one man was hardy enough to en-
gage, and he was used like a ' ' stool-pigeon, ' ' to
decoy others ; but several days elapsed before
any more could be prevailed upon to join him.
A few then came to terms. It was desirable
to engage them for five years, but some refused
to engage for more than three. Then they
must have part of their pay in advance, which
was readily granted. When they had pocketed
the amount, and squandered it in regales or in
2>ttttcultles of 'Recruiting 179
outfits, they began to talk of pecuniary obliga-
tions at Mackinaw, which must be discharged
before they would be free to depart ; or en-
gagements with other persons, which were
only to be cancelled by a " reasonable consider-
ation."
It was in vain to argue or remonstrate. The
money advanced had already been sacked and
spent, and must be lost and the recruits left
behind, unless they could be freed from their
debts and engagements. Accordingly, a fine
was paid for one ; a j udgment for another ; a
tavern bill for a third, and almost all had to be
bought off from some prior engagement, either
real or pretended.
Mr. Hunt groaned in spirit at the incessant
and unreasonable demands of these worthies
upon his purse ; yet with all this outlay of
funds, the number recruited was but scanty,
and many of the most desirable still held them-
selves aloof, and were not to be caught by a
golden bait. With these he tried another
temptation. Among the recruits who had en-
listed he distributed feathers and ostrich
plumes. These they put in their hats, and
thus figured about Mackinaw, assuming airs
of vast importance, as voyageurs in a new
company, that was to eclipse the Northwest.
The effect was complete. A French Canadian
i8o Bstoria
is too vain and mercurial a being to withstand
the finery and ostentation of the feather.
Numbers immediately pressed into the service.
One must have an ostrich plume ; another, a
white feather with a red end ; a third, a bunch
of cocks' tails. Thus all paraded about, in
vainglorious style, more delighted with the
feathers in their hats than with the money in
their pockets ; and considering themselves fully
equal to the boastful " men of the north."
While thus recruiting the number of rank
and file, Mr. Hunt was joined by a person
whom he had invited, by letter, to engage as a
partner in the expedition. This was Mr.
Ramsay Crooks, a young man, a native of
Scotland, who had served under the Northwest
Company, and been engaged in trading expe-
ditions upon his individual account among the
tribes of the Missouri. Mr. Hunt knew him
personally, and had conceived a high and mer-
ited opinion of his judgment, enterprise, and
integrity ; he was rejoiced, therefore, when the
latter consented to accompany him. Mr.
Crooks, however, drew from experience a pic-
ture of the dangers to which they would be
subjected, and urged the importance of going
with a considerable force. In ascending the
upper Missouri they would have to pass through
the country of the Sioux Indians, who had
Bmbarfcation of tbc IDogaaeurs 181
manifested repeated hostility to the white
traders, and rendered their expeditions ex-
tremely perilous ; firing upon them from the
river banks as they passed beneath in their
boats, and attacking them in their encamp-
ments. Mr. Crooks himself, when voyaging
in company with another trader of the name
of M'Lellan, had been interrupted by these
marauders, and had considered himself fortu-
nate in escaping down the river without loss
of life or property, but with a total abandon-
ment of his trading voyage.
Should they be fortunate enough to pass
through the country of the Sioux without
molestation, they would have another tribe
still more savage and warlike beyond, and
deadly foes of the white men.
These were the Blackfeet Indians, who
ranged over a wide extent of country which
they would have to traverse. Under all these
circumstances, it was thought advisable to
augment the party considerably. It already
exceeded the number of thirty, to which it had
originally been limited ; but it was determined,
on arriving at St. Louis, to increase it to the
number of sixty.
These matters being arranged, they prepared
to embark ; but the embarkation of a crew of
Canadian voyageurs, on a distant expedition,
182 Sstoria
is not so easy a matter as might be imagined ;
especially of such a set of vainglorious fellows
with money in both pockets, and cocks' tails
in their hats. Like sailors, the Canadian voy-
ageurs generally preface a long cruise with a
carouse. They have their cronies, their broth-
ers, their cousins, their wives, their sweet-
hearts, all to be entertained at their expense.
They feast, they fiddle, they drink, they sing,
they dance, they frolic and fight, until they are
all as mad as so many drunken Indians. The
publicans are all obedience to their commands,
never hesitating to let them run up scores
without limit, knowing that, when their own
money is expended, the purses of their employ-
ers must answer for the bill, or the voyage must
be delayed. Neither was it possible, at that
time, to remedy the matter at Mackinaw. In
that amphibious community there was always
a propensity to wrest the laws in favor of riot-
ous or mutinous boatmen. It was necessary,
also, to keep the recruits in good humor, seeing
the novelty and danger of the service into which
they were entering, and the ease with which
they might at any time escape it, by jumping
into a canoe and going down the stream.
Such were the scenes that beset Mr. Hunt,
and gave him a foretaste of the difficulties of
his command. The little cabarets and sutlers'
parting Scenes 183
shops along the bay resounded with the scrap-
ing of fiddles, with snatches of old French
songs, with Indian whoops and yells, while
every plumed and feathered vagabond had his
troop of loving cousins and comrades at his
heels. It was with the utmost difficulty they
could be extricated from the clutches of the
publicans and the embraces of their pot com-
panions, who followed them to the water's edge
with many a hug, a kiss on each cheek, and a
maudlin benediction in Canadian French.
It was about the i2th of August that they
left Mackinaw, and pursued the usual route by
Green Bay, Fox and Wisconsin rivers, to
Prairie du Chien, and thence down the Missis-
sippi to St. lyouis, where they landed on the
3d of September.
Cbaptet
St Louis— French Creole Traders and Their Depend-
ents— Missouri Fur Company — Mr. Manuel Lisa —
Mississippi Boatmen — Vagrant Indians — Kentucky
Hunters — Mr. Joseph Miller — Voyage up the Mis-
souri— Arrival at the Nodowa — Mr. Robert M' Lei-
Ian Joins the Party— John Day, a Virginia Hunter
— Mr. Hunt Returns to St. Louis.
ST. LOUIS, which is situated on the right
bank of the Mississippi River, a few
miles below the mouth of the Missouri,
was, at that time, a frontier settlement,
and the last fitting-out place for the Indian
trade of the Southwest. It possessed a motley
population, composed of the Creole descend-
ants of the original French colonists ; the keen
traders from the Atlantic States ; the back-
woodsmen of Kentucky and Tennessee ; the
Indians and half-breeds of the prairies ; to-
gether with a singular aquatic race that had
grown up from the navigation of the rivers —
the "boatmen of the Mississippi," who pos-
184
ttbe flMasouri ffur Company 185
sessed habits, manners, and almost a language,
peculiarly their own, and strongly technical.
They, at that time, were extremely numerous,
and conducted the chief navigation and com-
merce of the Ohio and the Mississippi, as the
•voyageurs did of the Canadian waters ; but,
like them, their consequence and characteris-
tics are rapidly vanishing before the all-per-
vading intrusion of steamboats.
The old French houses engaged in the In-
dian trade had gathered round them a train
of dependents, mongrel Indians and mongrel
Frenchmen, who had intermarried with In-
dians. These they employed in their various
expeditions by land and water. Various in-
dividuals of other countries had, of late years,
pushed the trade farther into the interior, to
the upper waters of the Missouri, and had
swelled the number of these hangers-on. Sev-
eral of these traders had, two or three years
previously, formed themselves into a company,
composed of twelve partners, with a capital
of about forty thousand dollars, called the
Missouri Fur Company, the object of which
was to establish posts along the upper part of
that river, and monopolize the trade. The
leading partner of this company was Mr. Man-
uel L,isa, a Spaniard by birth, and a man of
bold and enterprising character, who had as-
i86 Bstoria
cended the Missouri almost to its source, and
made himself well acquainted and popular
with several of its tribes. By his exertions,
trading posts had been established, in 1808,
in the Sioux country, and among the Aricara
and Mandan tribes ; and a principal one, un-
der Mr. Henry, one of the partners, at the
forks of the Missouri. This company had in
its employ about two hundred and fifty men,
partly American hunters, and partly Creoles
and Canadian voyageurs.
All these circumstances combined to pro-
duce a population at St. Louis even still more
motley than that at Mackinaw. Here were
to be seen, about the river banks, the hector-
ing, extravagant, bragging boatmen of the
Mississippi, with the gay, grimacing, singing,
good-humored Canadian voyageurs. Vagrant
Indians, of various tribes, loitered about the
streets. Now and then a stark Kentucky
hunter, in leathern hunting-dress, with rifle
on shoulder and knife in belt, strode along.
Here and there were new brick houses and
shops, just set up by bustling, driving, and
eager men of traffic from the Atlantic States ;
while, on the other hand, the old French man-
sions, with open casements, still retained the
easy, indolent air of the original colonists ; and
now and then the scraping of a fiddle, a strain
B IRival Company at St. Xouis 187
of an ancient French song, or the sound of
billiard balls, showed that the happy Gallic
turn for gayety and amusement still lingered
about the place.
Such was St. Louis at the time of Mr.
Hunt's arrival there, and the appearance of
a new fur company, with ample funds at its
command, produced a strong sensation among
the Indian traders of the place, and awak-
ened keen jealousy and opposition on the
part of the Missouri Company. Mr. Hunt
proceeded to strengthen himself against
all competition. For this purpose, he secured
to the interests of the association another of
those enterprising men, who had been engaged
in individual traffic with the tribes of the Mis-
souri. This was a Mr. Joseph Miller, a gen-
tleman well educated and well informed, and
of a respectable family of Baltimore. He had
been an officer in the army of the United States,
but had resigned in disgust, on being refused
a furlough, and had taken to trapping beaver
and trading among the Indians. He was easily
induced by Mr. Hunt to join as a partner, and
was considered by him, on account of his edu-
cation and acquirements, and his experience in
Indian trade, a valuable addition to the com-
pany.
Several additional men were likewise en-
i88 Bstoria
listed at St. Louis, some as boatmen, and others
as hunters. These last were engaged, not
merely to kill game for provisions, but also,
and indeed chiefly, to trap beaver and other
animals of rich furs, valuable in the trade.
They enlisted on different terms. Some were
to have a fixed salary of three hundred dol-
lars ; others were to be fitted out and main-
tained at the expense of the company, and
were to hunt and trap on shares.
As Mr. Hunt met with much opposition on
the part of rival traders, especially the Mis-
souri Fur Company, it took him some weeks
to complete his preparations. The delays
which he had previously experienced at Mon-
treal, Mackinaw, and on the way, added to
those at St. Louis, had thrown him much be-
hind his original calculation, so that it would
be impossible to effect his voyage up the Mis-
souri the present year. This river, flowing
from high and cold latitudes, and through
wide and open plains, exposed to chilling
blasts, freezes early. The winter may be dated
from the first of November ; there was every
prospect, therefore, that it would be closed
with ice long before Mr. Hunt could reach its
upper waters. To avoid, however, the ex-
pense of wintering at St. Louis, he determined
to push up the river as far as possible, to some
188
St. Lotus* »6 u men, and others
AS hunters. re engaged, not
merely t provisions, but also,
and indi to trap beaver and other
aniri furs, valuable in the trade.
They enlisted on different terms. Some were
to have a fixed salary of three hundred dol-
lars ; others were to be fitted out and main-
tained at the expense of the company, and
were to hunt and trap on shares.
As Mr. Hunt met with much opposition on
the pan iers, especially the Mis-
soSfc l^s in the EaH> mA$K Centur* eeks
to complSferawn from a ^r^tefiC8" The delays
which he had previously experienced at Mon-
treal, Mackinaw dded to
those at St. Lou be-
iiat it would
be impossible to rflb .- up the Mis-
i the pttaci. This river, flowing
from high ai itudes, and through
wide and open plains, exposed to chilling
blasts, freezes early. The winter may be dated
from the first of November ; there was every
prospect, therefore, that it would be closed
with ice long before Mr. Hunt could reach its
upper waters. To avoid, however, the ex-
pense of wintering at St. Louis, he determined
ip the river as far as possible, to some
I
tbe fl&issourf 189
point above the settlements, where game was
plenty, and where his whole party could be
subsisted by hunting, until the breaking up
of the ice in the spring should permit them to
resume their voyage.
Accordingly on the 2ist of October he took
his departure from St. Louis. His party was
distributed in three boats. One was the barge
which he had brought from Mackinaw ;
another was of a larger size, such as was form-
erly used in navigating the Mohawk River,
and known by the generic name of the Sche-
nectady barge ; the other was a large keel boat,
at that time the grand conveyance on the Mis-
sissippi.
In this way they set out from St. I^ouis, in
buoyant spirits, and soon arrived at the mouth
of the Missouri. This vast river, three thou-
sand miles in length, and which, with its tribu-
tary streams, drains such an immense extent
of country, was as yet but casually and imper-
fectly navigated by the adventurous bark of
the fur trader. A steamboat had never yet
stemmed its turbulent current. Sails were but
of casual assistance, for it required a strong
wind to conquer the force of the stream. The
main dependence was on bodily strength and
manual dexterity. The boats, in general, had
to be propelled by oars and setting poles, or
190 Bstorla
drawn by the hand and by grappling hooks
from one root or overhanging tree to another ;
or towed by the long cordelle, or towing line,
where the shores were sufficiently clear of
woods and thickets to permit the men to pass
along the banks.
During this slow and tedious progress the
boat would be exposed to frequent danger from
floating trees and great masses of driftwood,
or to be impaled upon snags and sawyers ; that
is to say, sunken trees presenting a jagged or
pointed end above the surface of the water.
As the channel of the river frequently shifted
from side to side according to the bends and
sand-banks, the boat had, in the same way, to
advance in a zigzag course. Often a part of
the crew would have to leap into the water at
the shallows, and wade along with the towing
line, while their comrades on board toilfully as-
sisted with oar and setting pole. Sometimes
the boat would seem to be retained motionless,
as if spellbound, opposite some point round
which the current set with violence, and where
the utmost labor scarce effected any visible
progress.
On these occasions it was that the merits of
the Canadian voyageurs came into full action.
Patient of toil, not to be disheartened by im-
pediments and disappointments, fertile in expe-
1HIlmter Quarters at IRo&owa 191
dients, and versed in every mode of humoring
and conquering the wayward current, they
would ply every exertion, sometimes in the
boat, sometimes on shore, sometimes in the
water, however cold ; always alert, always in
good humor; and, should they at any time
flag or grow weary, one of their popular boat
songs, chanted by a veteran oarsman, and re-
sponded to in chorus, acted as a never-failing
restorative.
By such assiduous and persevering labor
they made their way about four hundred and
fifty miles up the Missouri, by the 1 6th of No-
vember, to the mouth of the Nodowa. As this
was a good hunting country, and as the season
was rapidly advancing, they determined to es-
tablish their winter quarters at this place ; and,
in fact, two days after they had come to a halt,
the river closed just above their encampment.
The party had not been long at this place
when they were joined by Mr. Robert M' Lei-
Ian, another trader of the Missouri ; the same
who had been associated with Mr. Crooks in
the unfortunate expedition in which they had
been intercepted by the Sioux Indians, and
obliged to make a rapid retreat down the river.
M'L,ellan was a remarkable man. He had
been a partisan under General Wayne, in his
Indian wars, where he had distinguished him-
192 Bstorfa
self by his fiery spirit and reckless daring, and
marvellous stories were told of his exploits.
His appearance answered to his character. His
frame was meagre, but muscular ; showing
strength, activity, and iron firmness. His eyes
were dark, deep-set, and piercing. He was
restless, fearless, but of impetuous and some-
times ungovernable temper. He had been
invited by Mr. Hunt to enroll himself as a part-
ner, and gladly consented ; being pleased with
the thoughts of passing with a powerful force
through the country of the Sioux, and per-
haps having an opportunity of revenging
himself upon that lawless tribe for their past
offences.
Another recruit that joined the camp at
Nodowa deserves equal mention. This was
John Day, a hunter from the backwoods of
Virginia, who had been several years on the
Missouri in the service of Mr. Crooks, and of
other traders. He was about forty years of age,
six feet two inches high, straight as an Indian ;
with an elastic step as if he trod on springs,
and a handsome, open, manly countenance.
It was his boast that, in his younger days,
nothing could hurt or daunt him ; but he had
"lived too fast," and injured his constitution
by his excesses. Still he was strong of hand,
bold of heart, a prime woodman, and an almost
t>imt's Dtett to St. Xoute 193
unerring shot. He had the frank spirit of a
Virginian, and the rough heroism of a pioneer
of the west.
The party were now brought to a halt for
several months. They were in a country
abounding with deer and wild turkeys, so that
there was no stint of provisions, and every one
appeared cheerful and contented. Mr. Hunt
determined to avail himself of this interval to
return to St. Louis and obtain a reinforcement.
He wished to procure an interpreter, acquainted
with the language of the Sioux, as, from all
accounts, he apprehended difficulties in passing
through the country of that nation. He felt
the necessity, also, of having a greater number
of hunters, not merely to keep up a supply of
provisions throughout their long and arduous
expedition, but also as a protection and defence,
in case of Indian hostilities. For such service
the Canadian voyageurs were little to be de-
pended upon, fighting not being a part of their
profession. The proper kind of men were
American hunters, experienced in savage life
and savage warfare, and possessed of the true
game spirit of the west.
Leaving, therefore, the encampment in
charge of the other partners, Mr. Hunt set off
on foot on the ist of January (1810), for St.
Louis. He was accompanied by eight men as
VOL. I. — 13
Bstoria
far as Fort Osage, about one hundred and fifty
miles below Nodowa. Here he procured a
couple of horses, and proceeded on the remain-
der of his journey with two men, sending the
other six back to the encampment. He arrived
at St. I/ouis on the soth of January.
Gbapter f ID.
Opposition of the Missouri Fur Company — Blackfeet
Indians — Pierre Dorion, a Half-breed Interpreter —
Renegadoes from Nodowa — Messrs. Bradbury and
Nuttall Join the Expedition — Departure from St.
Louis — Daniel Boone, the Patriarch of Kentucky —
John Colter — His Adventures among the Indians —
Fort Osage— An Indian War-feast.
ON this his second visit to St. I,ouis, Mr.
Hunt was again impeded in his plans
by the opposition of the Missouri Fur
Company. The affairs of that com-
pany were, at this time, in a very dubious state.
During the preceding year, their principal es-
tablishment at the forks of the Missouri had
been so much harassed by the Blackfeet In-
dians, that its commander, Mr. Henry, one of
the partners, had been compelled to abandon
the post and cross the Rocky Mountains, with
the intention of fixing himself upon one of the
upper branches of the Columbia. What had
195
196 Bstoria
become of him and his party was unknown.
The most intense anxiety was felt concerning
them, and apprehensions that they might have
been cut off by the savages. At the time of Mr.
Hunt's arrival at St. Louis, the Missouri Com-
pany were fitting out an expedition to go in
quest of Mr. Henry. It was to be conducted
by Mr. Manuel Lisa, the enterprising partner
already mentioned.
There being thus two expeditions on foot at
the same moment, an unusual demand was oc-
casioned for hunters and voyageurs, who ac-
cordingly profited by the circumstance, and
stipulated for high terms. Mr. Hunt found a
keen and subtle competitor in Lisa, and was
obliged to secure his recruits by liberal advances
of pay, and by other pecuniary indulgences.
The greatest difficulty was to procure the
Sioux interpreter. There was but one man to
be met with at St. Louis who was fitted for the
purpose, but to secure him would require much
management. The individual in question was
a half-breed, named Pierre Dorion ; and, as he
figures hereafter in this narrative, and is,
withal, a striking specimen of the hybrid race
on the frontier, we shall give a few particulars
concerning him. Pierre was the son of Dorion,
the French interpreter, who accompanied
Messrs. Lewis and Clarke in their famous ex-
pferre 2>orfon 197
ploring expedition across the Rocky Mountains.
Old Dorion was one of those French Creoles,
descendants of the ancient Canadian stock,
who abound on the western frontier, and amal-
gamate or cohabit with the savages. He had
sojourned among various tribes, and perhaps
left progeny among them all ; but his regular
or habitual wife, was a Sioux squaw. By her
he had a hopeful brood of half-breed sons, of
whom Pierre was one. The domestic affairs
of old Dorion were conducted on the true In-
dian plan. Father and sons would occasionally
get drunk together, and then the cabin was a
scene of ruffian brawl and fighting, in the course
of which the old Frenchman was apt to get
soundly belabored by his mongrel offspring.
In a furious scuffle of the kind, one of the sons
got the old man upon the ground, and was
upon the point of scalping him. * ' Hold ! my
son," cried the old fellow, in imploring accents,
" you are too brave, too honorable to scalp your
father ! " This last appeal touched the French
side of the half-breed's heart, so he suffered
the old man to wear his scalp unharmed,
Of this hopeful stock was Pierre Dorion, the
man whom it was now the desire of Mr. Hunt
to engage as an interpreter. He had been em-
ployed in that capacity by the Missouri Fur
Company during the preceding year, and con-
198 Bstoria
ducted their traders in safety through the dif-
ferent tribes of the Sioux. He had proved
himself faithful and serviceable while sober ;
but the love of liquor, in which he had been
nurtured and brought up, would occasionally
break out, and with it the savage side of his
character.
It was his love of liquor which had em-
broiled him with the Missouri Company.
While in their service at Fort Mandan, on the
frontier, he had been seized with a whiskey
mania ; and, as the beverage was only to be
procured at the company's store, it had been
charged in his account at the rate of ten dol-
lars a quart. This item had ever remained un-
settled, and a matter of furious dispute, the
mere mention of which was sufficient to put
him in a passion.
The moment it was discovered by Mr. Lisa
that Pierre Dorion was in treaty with the new
and rival association, he endeavored, by threats
as well as promises, to prevent his engaging in
their service. His promises might, perhaps,
have prevailed ; but his threats, which related
to the whiskey debt, only served to drive Pierre
into the opposite ranks. Still he took advan-
tage of this competition for his services to stand
out with Mr. Hunt on the most advantageous
terms, and, after a negotiation of nearly two
Disaffection ano Desertion 199
weeks, capitulated to serve in the expedition,
as hunter and interpreter, at the rate of three
hundred dollars a year, two hundred of which
were to be paid in advance.
When Mr. Hunt had got everything ready
for leaving St. Louis, new difficulties arose.
Five of the American hunters from the encamp-
ment at Nodowa suddenly made their appear-
ance. They alleged that they had been ill
treated by the partners at the encampment,
and had come off clandestinely, in consequence
of a dispute. It was useless at the present
moment, and under present circumstances, to
attempt any compulsory measures with these
deserters. Two of them Mr. Hunt prevailed
upon, by mild means, to return with him.
The rest refused ; nay, what was worse, they
spread such reports of the hardships and dan-
gers to be apprehended in the course of the
expedition, that they struck a panic into those
hunters who had recently engaged at St. Louis,
and, when the hour of departure arrived, all
but one refused to embark. It was in vain to
plead or remonstrate ; they shouldered their
rifles and turned their backr upon the expedi-
tion, and Mr. Hunt was fain to put off from
shore with the single hunter and a number of
voyageurs whom he had engaged. Even
Pierre Dorion, at the last moment, refused to
200 Bstoria
enter the boat until Mr. Hunt consented to
take his squaw and two children on board also.
But the tissue of perplexities, on account of
this worthy individual, did not end here.
Among the various persons who were about
to proceed up the Missouri with Mr. Hunt,
were two scientific gentlemen : one Mr. John
Bradbury, a man of mature age, but great en-
terprise and personal activity, who had been
sent out by the Linnaean Society of Liverpool
to make a collection of American plants ; the
other, a Mr. Nuttall, likewise an Englishman,
younger in years, who has since made himself
known as the author of Travels in Arkansas,
and a work on the Genera of American Plants.
Mr. Hunt had offered them the protection and
facilities of his party, in their scientific re-
searches up the Missouri. As they were not
ready to depart at the moment of embarkation,
they put their trunks on board of the boat,
but remained at St. Louis until the next day,
for the arrival of the post, intending to join
the expedition at St. Charles, a short distance
above the mouth of the Missouri.
The same evening, however, they learned
that a writ had been issued against Pierre
Dorion for his whiskey debt, by Mr. Lisa, as
agent of the Missouri Company, and that it
was the intention to entrap the mongrel lin-
troubles 201
guist on his arrival at St. Charles. Upon
hearing this, Mr. Bradbury and Mr. Nuttall
set off a little after midnight, by land, got
ahead of the boat as it was ascending the Mis-
souri, before its arrival at St. Charles, and gave
Pierre Dorion warning of the legal toil prepared
to ensnare him. The knowing Pierre immedi-
ately landed and took to the woods, followed
by his squaw laden with their papooses, and a
large bundle containing their most precious
effects, promising to rejoin the party some
distance above St. Charles. There seemed
little dependence to be placed upon the prom-
ises of a loose adventurer of the kind, who
was at the very time playing an evasive game
with his former employers ; who had already
received two thirds of his year's pay, and his
rifle on his shoulder, his family and wordly
fortune at his heels, and the wild woods before
him. There was no alternative, however, and
it was hoped his pique against his old employ-
ers would render him faithful to his new ones.
The party reached St. Charles in the after-
noon, but the harpies of the law looked in
vain for their expected prey. The boats re-
sumed their course on the following morning,
and had not proceeded far when Pierre Dorion
made his appearance on the shore. He was
gladly taken on board, but he came without
202 Bstoria
his squaw. They had quarrelled in the night ;
Pierre had administered the Indian discipline
of the cudgel, whereupon she had taken to
the woods, with their children and all their
wordly goods. Pierre evidently was deeply
grieved and disconcerted at the loss of his
wife and his knapsack, whereupon Mr. Hunt
despatched one of the Canadian voyageurs in
search of the fugitive ; and the whole party,
after proceeding a few miles farther, encamped
on an island to wait his return. The Canadian
rejoined the party, but without the squaw ;
and Pierre Dorion passed a solitary and anxious
night, bitterly regretting his indiscretion in
having exercised his conjugal authority so
near home. Before daybreak, however, a well-
known voice reached his ears from the opposite
shore. It was his repentant spouse, who had
been wandering the woods all night in quest
of the party, and had at length descried it by
its fires. A boat was despatched for her, the
interesting family was once more united, and
Mr. Hunt now flattered himself that his per-
plexities with Pierre Dorion were at an end.
Bad weather, very heavy rains, and an un-
usually early rise in the Missouri, rendered the
ascent of the river toilsome, slow, and danger-
ous. The rise of the Missouri does not gener-
ally take place until the month of May or
Daniel ^Boone 203
June : the present swelling of the river must
have been caused by a freshet in some of its
more southern branches. It could not have
been the great annual flood, as the higher
branches must still have been ice-bound.
And here we cannot but pause, to notice the
admirable arrangement of nature, by which
the annual swellings of the various great
rivers which empty themselves into the Missis-
sippi, have been made to precede each other at
considerable intervals. Thus, the flood of the
Red River precedes that of the Arkansas by a
month. The Arkansas, also, rising in a much
more southern latitude than the Missouri, takes
the lead of it in its annual excess, and its
superabundant waters are disgorged and dis-
posed of long before the breaking up of the
icy barriers of the north ; otherwise, did all
these mighty streams rise simultaneously, and
discharge their vernal floods into the Missis-
sippi, an inundation would be the consequence,
that would submerge and devastate all the
lower country.
On the afternoon of the third day, January
1 7th, the boats touched at Charette, one of the-
old villages founded by the original French
colonists. Here they met with Daniel Boone,
the renowned patriarch of Kentucky, who had
kept in the advance of civilization, and on the
204 Bstorfa
borders of the wilderness, still leading a hunt-
er's life, though now in his eighty-fifth year.
He had but recently returned from a hunting
and trapping expedition, and had brought
nearly sixty beaver skins as trophies of his
skill. The old man was still erect in form,
strong in limb, and unflinching in spirit, and
as he stood on the river bank, watching the
departure of an expedition destined to traverse
the wilderness to the very shores of the Pacific,
very probably felt a throb of his old pioneer
spirit, impelling him to shoulder his rifle and
join the adventurous band. Boone flourished
several years after this meeting, in a vigorous
old age, the Nestor of hunters and backwoods-
men ; and died, full of sylvan honor and re-
nown, in 1818, in his ninety-second year.
The next morning early, as the party were
yet encamped at the mouth of a small stream,
they were visited by another of these heroes of
the wilderness, one John Colter, who had ac-
companied Lewis and Clarke in their memora-
ble expedition. He had recently made one of
those vast internal voyages so characteristic of
this fearless class of men, and of the immense
regions over which they hold their lonely wan-
derings ; having come from the head waters of
the Missouri to St. Louis in a small canoe. This
distance of three thousand miles he had accom-
Colter an& potts 205
plished in thirty days. Colter kept with the
party all the morning. He had many particu-
lars to give them concerning the Blackfeet In-
dians, a restless and predatory tribe, who had
conceived an implacable hostility to the white
men, in consequence of one of their warriors
having been killed by Captain Lewis, while at-
tempting to steal horses. Through the coun-
try infested by these savages the expedition
would have to proceed, and Colter was urgent
in reiterating the precautions that ought to be
observed respecting them. He had himself
experienced their vindictive cruelty, and his
story deserves particular citation, as showing
the hairbreadth adventures to which these soli-
tary rovers of the wilderness are exposed.
Colter, with the hardihood of a regular trap-
per, had cast himself loose from the party of
Lewis and Clarke in the very heart of the wil-
derness, and had remained to trap beaver alone
on the head waters of the Missouri. Here he
fell in with another lonely trapper, like himself,
named Potts, and they agreed to keep together.
They were in the very region of the terrible
Blackfeet, at that time thirsting to revenge the
death of their companion, and knew that they
had to expect no mercy at their hands. They
were obliged to keep concealed all day in the
woody margins of the rivers, setting their traps
206 Bstoria
after nightfall and taking them up before day-
break. It was running a fearful risk for the
sake of a few beaver skins ; but such is the
life of the trapper.
They were on a branch of the Missouri called
Jefferson Fork, and had set their traps at night,
about six miles up a small river that emptied
into the fork. Early in the morning they as-
cended the river in a canoe, to examine the
traps. The banks on each side were high and
perpendicular, and cast a shade over the stream.
As they were softly paddling along, they heard
the trampling of many feet upon the banks.
Colter immediately gave the alarm of " Indi-
ans ! ' ' and was for instant retreat. Potts
scoffed at him for being frightened by the tram-
pling of a herd of buffaloes. Colter checked
his uneasiness and paddled forward. They had
not gone much farther when frightful whoops
and yells burst forth from each side of the river,
and several hundred Indians appeared on either
bank. Signs were made to the unfortunate
trappers to come on shore. They were obliged
to comply. Before they could get out of their
canoe, a savage seized the rifle belonging to
Potts. Colter sprang on shore, wrested the
weapon from the hands of the Indian, and re-
stored it to his companion, who was still in the
canoe, and immediately pushed into the stream.
witb tbe JBlacfcfeet 207
There was the sharp twang of a b*ow, and Potts
cried out that he was wounded. Colter urged
him to come on shore and submit, as his only
chance for life ; but the other knew there was
no prospect of mercy, and determined to die
game. Levelling his rifle, he shot one of the
savages dead on the spot. The next moment
he fell himself, pierced with innumerable ar-
rows.
The vengeance of the savages now turned
upon Colter. He was stripped naked, and,
having some knowledge of the Blackfoot lan-
guage, overheard a consultation as to the mode
of despatching him, so as to derive the greatest
amusement from his death . Some were for set-
ting him up as a mark, and having a trial of
skill at his expense. The chief, however, was
for nobler sport. He seized Colter by the
shoulder, and demanded if he could run fast.
The unfortunate trapper was too well ac-
quainted with Indian customs not to compre-
hend the drift of the question. He knew he
was to run for his life, to furnish a kind of
human hunt to his persecutors. Though in
reality he was noted among his brother hunters
for swiftness of foot, he assured the chief that
he was a very bad runner. His stratagem
gained him some vantage ground. He was led
by the chief into the prairie, about four hun-
208 Bstoria
dred yards from the main body of savages, and
then turned loose to save himself if he could.
A tremendous yell let him know that the whole
pack of blood -hounds were off in full cry. Col-
ter flew rather than ran ; he was astonished at
his own speed ; but he had six miles of prairie
to traverse before he should reach the Jefferson
Fork of the Missouri ; how could he hope to
hold out such a distance with the fearful odds
of several hundred to one against him ! The
plain, too, abounded with the prickly pear,
which wounded his naked feet. Still he fled
on, dreading each moment to hear the twang
of a bow, and to feel an arrow quivering at his
heart. He did not even dare to look round,
lest he should lose an inch of that distance on
which his life depended. He had run nearly
half way across the plain when the sound of
pursuit grew somewhat fainter, and he ventured
to turn his head. The main body of his pursuers
were a considerable distance behind ; several of
the fastest runners were scattered in the ad-
vance ; while a swift-footed warrior, armed with
a spear, was not more than a hundred yards
behind him.
Inspired with new hope, Colter redoubled his
exertions, but strained himself to such a de-
gree that the blood gushed from his mouth
and nostrils, and streamed down his breast.
B IRun for OLite 209
He arrived within a mile of the river. The
sound of footsteps gathered upon him. A
glance behind showed his pursuer within
twenty yards, and preparing to launch his
spear. Stopping short he turned round and
spread out his arms. The savage, confounded
by this sudden action, attempted to stop and
hurl his spear, but fell in the very act. His
spear stuck in the ground, and the shaft broke
in his hand. Colter plucked up the pointed
part, pinned the savage to the earth, and con-
tinued his flight. The Indians, as they arrived
at their slaughtered companion, stopped to
howl over him. Colter made the most of this
precious delay, gained the skirt of cottonwood
bordering the river, dashed through it, and
plunged into the stream. He swam to a neigh-
boring island, against the upper end of which
the driftwood had lodged in such quantities as
to form a natural raft ; under this he dived,
and swam below water until he succeeded in
getting a breathing place between the floating
trunks of trees, whose branches and bushes
formed a covert several feet above the level of
the water. He had scarcely drawn breath after
all his toils, when he heard his pursuers on the
river bank, whooping and yelling like so many
fiends. They plunged in the river, and swam
to the raft. The heart of Colter almost died
VOL. I.— 14
210 Sstoria
within him as he saw them, through the chinks
of his concealment, passing and repassing, and
seeking for him in all directions. They at
length gave up the search, and he began to
rejoice in his escape, when the idea presented
itself that they might set the raft on fire. Here
was a new source of horrible apprehension, in
which he remained until nightfall. Fortu-
nately the idea did not suggest itself to the
Indians. As soon as it was dark, finding by
the silence that his pursuers had departed,
Colter dived again and came up beyond the
raft. He then swam silently down the river
for a considerable distance, when he landed,
and kept on all night, to get as far as possible
from this dangerous neighborhood.
By daybreak he had gained sufficient dis-
tance to relieve him from the terrors of his
savage foes ; but now new sources of inquietude
presented themselves. He was naked and
alone, in the midst of an unbounded wilder-
ness ; his only chance was to reach a trading
post of the Missouri Company, situated on a
branch of the Yellowstone River. Even should
he elude his pursuers, days must elapse before
he could reach this post, during which he must
traverse immense prairies destitute of shade,
his naked body exposed to the burning heat
of the sun by day, and the dews and chills of
Dangers anD Difficulties 211
the night season, and his feet lacerated by the
thorns of the prickly pear. Though he might
see game in abundance around him, he had no
means of killing any for his sustenance, and
must depend for food upon the roots of the
earth. In defiance of these difficulties he
pushed resolutely forward, guiding himself in
his trackless course by those signs and indica-
tions known only to Indians and backwoods-
men ; and after braving dangers and hardships
enough to break down any spirit but that of a
western pioneer, arrived safe at the solitary
post in question. *
Such is a sample of the rugged experience
which Colter had to relate of savage life ; yet,
with all these perils and terrors fresh in his
recollection, he could not see the present band
on their way to those regions of danger and
adventure, without feeling a vehement impulse
to join them. A western trapper is like a
sailor ; past hazards only stimulate him to
further risks. The vast prairie is to the one
what the ocean is to the other, a boundless
field of enterprise and exploit. However he
may have suffered in his last cruise, he is
always ready to join a new expedition ; and the
more adventurous its nature, the more attrac-
tive is it to his vagrant spirit.
* Bradbury, Travels in America, p. 17.
212 Bstorfa
Nothing seems to have kept Colter from
continuing with the party to the shores of the
Pacific but the circumstance of his having re-
cently married. All the morning he kept with
them, balancing in his mind the charms of his
bride against those of the Rocky Mountains ;
the former, however, prevailed, and after a
march of several miles, he took a reluctant
leave of the travellers, and turned his face
homeward.
Continuing their progress up the Missouri,
the party encamped on the evening of the 2ist
of March, in the neighborhood of a little fron-
tier village of French Creoles. Here Pierre
Dorion met with some of his old comrades,
with whom he had a long gossip, and returned
to the camp with rumors of bloody feuds be-
tween the Osages and the loways, or Ay away s,
Potowatomies, Sioux, and Sawkees. Blood
had already been shed, and scalps been taken.
A war party, three hundred strong, were prowl-
ing in the neighborhood ; others might be met
with higher up the river ; it behooved the
travellers, therefore, to be upon their guard
against robbery or surprise, for an Indian war-
party on the march is prone to acts of outrage.
In consequence of this report, which was
subsequently confirmed by further intelligence,
a guard was kept up at night round the en-
arrival at jfort ©sage. 213
campment, and they all slept on their arms.
As they were sixteen in number, and well sup-
plied with weapons and ammunition, they
trusted to be able to give any marauding party
a warm reception. Nothing occurred, how-
ever, to molest them on their voyage, and on
the 8th of April they came in sight of Fort
Osage. On their approach the flag was hoisted
on the fort, and they saluted it by a discharge
of fire-arms. Within a short distance of the
fort was an Osage village, the inhabitants of
which, men, women, and children, thronged
down to the water side to witness their land-
ing. One of the first persons they met on the
river bank was Mr. Crooks, who had come
down in a boat, with nine men, from the win-
ter encampment at Nodowa, to meet them.
They remained at Fort Osage a part of three
days, during which they were hospitably en-
tertained at the garrison by Lieutenant Brown-
son, who held a temporary command. They
were regaled also with a war-feast at the vil-
lage ; the Osage warriors having returned
from a successful foray against the loways,
in which they had taken seven scalps. They
were paraded on poles about the village, fol-
lowed by the warriors decked out in all their
savage ornaments, and hideously painted as if
for battle.
214 Bstorfa
By the Osage warriors, Mr. Hunt and his
companions were again warned to be on their
guard in ascending the river, as the Sioux
tribe meant to lay in wait and attack them.
On the loth of April they again embarked
their party, being now augmented to twenty-
six, by the addition of Mr. Crooks and his
boat's crew. They had not proceeded far,
however, when there was a great outcry from
one of the boats ; it was occasioned by a little
domestic discipline in the Dorion family. The
squaw of the worthy interpreter, it appeared,
had been so delighted with the scalp-dance,
and other festivities of the Osage village, that
she had taken a strong inclination to remain
there. This had been as strongly opposed by
her liege lord, who had compelled her to em-
bark. The good dame had remained sulky
ever since, whereupon Pierre, seeing no other
mode of exorcising the evil spirit out of her,
and being, perhaps, a little inspired by whis-
key, had resorted to the Indian remedy of the
cudgel, and before his neighbors could inter-
fere, had belabored her so soundly, that there
is no record of her having shown any refrac-
tory symptoms throughout the remainder of
the expedition.
For a week they continued their voyage,
exposed to almost incessant rains. The bodies
215
of drowned buffaloes floated past them in vast
numbers ; many had drifted upon the shore,
or against the upper ends of the rafts and
islands. These had attracted great flights of
turkey-buzzards ; some were banqueting on
the carcasses, others were soaring far aloft in
the sky, and others were perched on the trees,
with their backs to the sun, and their wings
stretched out to dry, like so many vessels in
harbor, spreading their sails after a shower.
The Turkey-buzzard (vultur aura, or golden
vulture), when on the wing, is one of the most
specious and imposing of birds. Its flight in
the upper regions of the air is really sublime,
extending its immense wings, and wheeling
slowly and majestically to and fro, seemingly
without exerting a muscle or fluttering a
feather, but moving by mere volition, and
sailing on the bosom of the air, as a ship upon
the ocean. Usurping the empyreal realm of
the eagle, he assumes for a time the port and
dignity of that majestic bird, and often is mis-
taken for him by ignorant crawlers upon earth.
It is only when he descends from the clouds
to pounce upon carrion that he betrays his low
propensities, and reveals his caitiff character.
Near at hand he is a disgusting bird, ragged
in plumage, base in aspect, and of loathsome
odor.
216
Bstoria
On the iyth of April Mr. Hunt arrived with
his party at the station near the Nodowa River,
where the main body had been quartered dur-
ing the winter.
Cbapter
Return of Spring — Renewal of the Voyage — Night
Encampments — Platte River — Ceremonials on Pass-
ing it — Signs of Indian War Parties — Magnificent
Prospect at Papillion Creek — Desertion of Two
Hunters— Village of the Omahas— Story of Black-
bird, the Famous Omaha Chief.
THE weather continued rainy and unge-
nial for some days after Mr. Hunt's
return to Nodowa ; yet spring was
rapidly advancing and vegetation was
putting forth with all its early freshness and
beauty. The snakes began to recover from
their torpor and crawl forth into day, and the
neighborhood of the wintering house seems to
have been much infested with them. Mr.
Bradbury, in the course of his botanical re-
searches, found a surprising number in a half
torpid state, under flat stones upon the banks.
which overhung the cantonment, and nar-
rowly escaped being struck by a rattlesnake,,
217
218 Bstoria
which darted at him from a cleft in the rock,
but fortunately gave him warning by his
rattle.
The pigeons, too, were filling the woods in
vast migratory flocks. It is almost incredible
to describle the prodigious flights of these
birds in the western wildernesses. They ap-
pear absolutely in clouds, and move with as-
tonishing velocity, their wings making a
whistling sound as they fly. The rapid evo-
lutions of these flocks, wheeling and shifting
suddenly as if with one mind and one impulse ;
the flashing changes of color they present, as
their backs, their breasts, or the under part
of their wings are turned to the spectator, are
singularly pleasing. When they alight, if on
the ground, they cover whole acres at a time ;
if upon trees, the branches often break be-
neath their weight. If sudden tly startled
while feeding in the midst of a forest, the
noise they make in getting on the wing is like
the roar of a cataract or the sound of distant
thunder.
A flight of this kind, like an Egyptian flight
of locusts, devours everything that serves for
its food as it passes along. So great were the
numbers in the vicinity of the camp that Mr.
Bradbury, in the course of a morning's excur-
sion, shot nearly three hundred with a fowling-
•Renewal of tbe \t)o^age 219
piece. He gives a curious, though apparently
a faithful, account of the kind of discipline
observed in these immense flocks, so that each
may have a chance of picking up food. As
the front ranks must meet with the greatest
abundance, and the rear ranks must have
scanty pickings, the instant a rank finds itself
the hindmost, it rises in the air, flies over the
whole flock, and takes its place in the ad-
vance. The next rank follows in its course, and
thus the last is continually becoming first, and
all by turns have a front place at the banquet.
The rains having at length subsided, Mr.
Hunt broke up the encampment and resumed
his course up the Missouri.
The party now consisted of nearly sixty per-
sons of whom five were partners, one, John
Reed, was a clerk ; forty were Canadian " voy-
ageurs " or * ' engages, ' ' and there were several
hunters. They embarked in four boats, one
of which was of a large size, mounting a swivel
and two howitzers. All were furnished with
masts and sails, to be used when the wind was
sufficiently favorable and strong to overpower
the current of the river. Such was the case
for the first four or five days, when they were
wafted steadily up the stream by a strong south-
easter.
Their encampments at night were often
220 Bstorla
pleasant and picturesque : on some beautiful
bank, beneath spreading trees, which afforded
them shelter and fuel. The tents were pitched,
the fires made, and the meals prepared by the
voyageurs, and many a story was told, and joke
passed, and song sung round the evening fire.
All, however, were asleep at an early hour.
Some under the tents, others wrapped in blank-
ets before the fire, or beneath the trees ; and
some few in the boats and canoes.
On the 28th, they breakfasted on one of the
islands which lie at the mouth of the Nebraska
or Platte River — the largest tributary of the
Missouri, and about six hundred miles above
its confluence with the Mississippi. This
broad but shallow stream flows for an immense
distance through a wide and verdant valley
scooped out of boundless prairies. It draws
its main supplies, by several forks or branches,
from the Rocky Mountains. The mouth of
this river is established as the dividing point
between the upper and lower Missouri ; and
the earlier voyagers, in their toilsome ascent,
before the introduction of steamboats, con-
sidered one half of their labors accomplished
when they reached this place. The passing
of the mouth of the Nebraska, therefore, was
equivalent among boatmen to the crossing of
the line among sailors, and was celebrated with
Stems of TlUar parties 221
like ceremonials of a rough and waggish
nature, practised upon the uninitiated ; among
which was the old nautical joke of shaving.
The river deities, however, like those of the
sea, were to be propitiated by a bribe, and the
infliction of these rude honors to be parried by
a treat to the adepts.
At the mouth of the Nebraska new signs
were met with of war parties which had
recently been in the vicinity. There was the
frame of a skin canoe, in which the warriors
had traversed the river. At night, also, the
lurid reflection of immense fires hung in the
sky, showing the conflagration of great tracts
of the prairies. Such fires not being made by
hunters so late in the season, it was supposed
they were caused by some wandering war
parties. These often take the precaution to
set the prairies on fire behind them to conceal
their traces from their enemies. This is chiefly
done when the party has been unsuccessful,
and is on the retreat and apprehensive of pur-
suit. At such time it is not safe even for
friends to fall in with them, as they are apt to
be in savage humor, and disposed to vent their
spleen in capricious outrage. These signs,
therefore, of a band of marauders on the prowl,
called for some degree of vigilance on the part
of the travellers.
Bdtorta
After passing the Nebraska, the party halted
for part of two days on the bank of the river, a
little above Papillion Creek, to supply them-
selves with a stock of oars and poles from the
tough wood of the ash, which is not met with
higher up the Missouri. While the voyagers
were thus occupied, the naturalists rambled
over the adjacent country to collect plants.
From the summit of a range of bluffs on the
opposite side of the river, about two hundred
and fifty feet high, they had one of those vast
and magnificent prospects which sometimes
unfold themselves in those boundless regions.
Below them was the Valley of the Missouri,
about seven miles in breadth, clad in the fresh
verdure of spring ; enamelled with flowers and
interspersed with clumps and groves of noble
trees, between which the mighty river poured
its turbulent and turbid stream. The interior
of the country presented a peculiar scene ; the
immense waste being broken up by innumer-
able green hills, not above eight feet in height,
but extremely steep, and actually pointed at
their summits. A long line of bluffs extended
for upwards of thirty miles parallel to the
Missouri, with a shallow lake stretching along
their base, which had evidently once formed a
bed of the river. The surface of this lake was
covered with aquatic plants, on the broad leaves
Desertion of £wo Ibunters 223
of which numbers of water-snakes, drawn forth
by the genial warmth of spring, were basking
in the sunshine.
On the 2d day of May, at the usual hour of
embarking, the camp was thrown into some
confusion by two of the hunters, named Har-
rington, expressing their intention to abandon
the expedition and return home. One of these
had joined the party in the preceding autumn,
having been hunting for two years on the
Missouri ; the other had engaged at St. Louis,
in the following March, and had come up from
thence with Mr. Hunt. He now declared that
he had enlisted merely for the purpose of follow-
ing his brother, and persuading him to return ;
having been enjoined to do so by his mother,
whose anxiety had been awakened by the idea
of his going on such a wild and distant expe-
dition.
The loss of two stark hunters and prime
riflemen was a serious affair to the party, for
they were approaching the region where they
might expect hostilities from the Sioux ; in-
deed, throughout the whole of their perilous
journey, the services of such men would be
all important, for little reliance was to be placed
upon the valor of the Canadians in case ot
attack. Mr. Hunt endeavored by arguments,
expostulations, and entreaties, to shake the
224 Bstorfa
determination of the two brothers. He repre-
sented to them that they were between six and
seven hundred miles above the mouth of the
Missouri ; that they would have four hundred
miles to go before they could reach the habi-
tation of a white man, throughout which they
would be exposed to all kinds of risks ; since,
he declared, if they persisted in abandoning
him and breaking their faith, he would not
furnish them with a single round of ammuni-
tion. All was in vain ; they obstinately per-
sisted in their resolution ; whereupon, Mr.
Hunt, partly incited by indignation, partly by
the policy of deferring others from desertion, put
his threat into execution, and left them to find
their way back to the settlement without, as he
supposed, a single bullet or charge of powder.
The boats now continued their slow and toil-
some course for several days against the cur-
rent of the river. The late signs of roaming
war parties caused a vigilant watch to be kept
up at night when the crews encamped on
shore ; nor was this vigilance superfluous ; for
on the night of the seventh instant, there was
a wild and fearful yell, and eleven Sioux war-
riors, stark naked, with tomahawks in their
hands, rushed into camp. They were instantly
surrounded and seized, whereupon their leader
called out to his followers to desist from any
Untrusion in Camp 225
violence, and pretended to be perfectly pacific
in his intentions. It proved, however, that
they were a part of the war party, the skeleton
of whose canoe had been seen at the mouth of
the river Platte, and the reflection of whose
fires had been descried in the air. They had
been disappointed or defeated in the foray, and
in their rage and mortification these eleven
warriors had ' * devoted their clothes to the
medicine." This is a desperate act of Indian
braves when foiled in war, and in dread of
scoffs and sneers. In such case they some-
times throw off their clothes and ornaments,
devote themselves to the Great Spirit, and
attempt some reckless exploit with which to
cover their disgrace. Woe to any defenceless
party of white men that may then fall in their
way !
Su^ch was the explanation given by Pierre
Dorion, the half-breed interpreter, of this wild
intrusion into the camp ; and the party was
so exasperated when apprised of the sanguin-
ary intentions of the prisoners, that they were
for shooting them on the spot. Mr. Hunt,
however, exerted his usual moderation and
humanity, and ordered that they should be
conveyed across the river in one of the boats,
threatening them, however, with certain death,
if again caught in any hostile act.
226 Bstoria
On the loth of May the party arrived at the
Omaha (pronounced Omawhaw) village, about
eight hundred and thirty miles above the
mouth of the Missouri, and encamped in its
neighborhood. The village was situated under
a hill on the bank of the river, and consisted
of about eighty lodges. These were of a circular
and conical form, and about sixteen feet in
diameter ; being mere tents of dressed buffalo
skins, sewed together and stretched on long
poles inclined towards each other so as to cross
at about half their height. Thus the naked
tops of the poles diverge in such a manner
that, if they were covered with skins like the
lower ends, the tent would be shaped like an
hour-glass, and present the appearance of one
cone inverted on the apex of another.
The forms of Indian lodges are worthy of
attention, each tribe having a different mode
of shaping and arranging them, so that it is
easy to tell, on seeing a lodge or an encamp-
ment at a distance, to what tribe the inhabi-
tants belong. The exterior of the Omaha
lodges have often a gay and fanciful appear-
ance, being painted with undulating bands of
red or yellow, or decorated with rude figures
of horses, deer, and buffaloes, and with human
faces, painted like full moons, four and five
feet broad.
•ffnDfan bribes on tbe /DMssouri 227
The Omahas were once one of the numerous
and powerful tribes of the prairies, vying in
warlike might and prowess with the Sioux,
Pawnees, the Sauks, the Konzas, and the
latans. Their wars with the Sioux, however,
had thinned their ranks, and the small-pox in
1802 had swept off two thirds of their number.
At the time of Mr. Hunt's visit they still
boasted about two hundred warriors and hunt-
ers, but they are now fast melting away, and
before long, will be numbered among those
extinguished nations of the west that exist but
in tradition.
In his correspondence with Mr. Astor, from
this point of his journey, Mr. Hunt gives a sad
account of the Indian tribes bordering on the
river. They were in continual war with each
other, and their wars were of the most harass-
ing kind ; consisting, not merely of main con-
flicts and expeditions of moment, involving the
sackings, burnings, and massacres of towns
and villages, but of individual acts of treach-
ery, murder, and cold-blooded cruelty ; or of
vaunting and foolhardy exploits of single war-
riors, either to avenge some personal wrong,
or gain the vainglorious trophy of a scalp.
The lonely hunter, the wandering wayfarer,
the poor squaw cutting wood or gathering corn,
was liable to be surprised and slaughtered.
22S Bstoria
In this way tribes were either swept away at
once, or gradually thinned out, and savage
life was surrounded with constant horrors and
alarms. That the race of red men should
diminish from year to year, and so few should
survive of the numerous nations which evi-
dently once peopled the vast regions of the
west, is nothing surprising ; it is rather matter
of surprise that so many should survive ; for
the existence of a savage in these parts seems
little better than a prolonged and all-besetting
death. It is, in fact, a caricature of the
boasted romance of feudal times ; chivalry in
its native and uncultured state, and knight-
errantry run wild.
In their most prosperous days, the Omahas
looked upon themselves as the most powerful
and perfect of human beings, and considered
all created things as made for their peculiar
use and benefit. It is this tribe of whose chief,
the famous Wash-ing-guh-sah-ba, or Black-
bird, such savage and romantic stories are told.
He had died about ten years previous to the
arrival of Mr. Hunt's party, but his name was
still mentioned with awe by his people. He
was one of the first among the Indian chiefs
on the Missouri to deal with the white traders,
and showed great sagacity in levying his royal
dues. When a trader arrived in his village,
JSlacftbirD, tbe ©maba Cbief 229
he caused all his goods to be brought into his
lodge and opened. From these he selected
whatever suited his sovereign pleasure ; blank-
ets, tobacco, whiskey, powder, ball, beads,
and red paint ; and laid the articles on one
side, without deigning to give any compensa-
tion. Then calling to him his herald or crier,
he would order him to mount on top of the
lodge and summon all the tribe to bring in
their peltries, and trade with the white man.
The lodge would soon be crowded with Indians
bringing bear, beaver, otter, and other skins.
No one was allowed to dispute the prices fixed
by the white trader upon his articles ; who
took care to indemnify himself five times
over for the goods set apart by the chief.
In this way the Blackbird enriched him-
self and enriched the white men, and be-
came exceedingly popular among the traders
of the Missouri. His people, however, were
not equally satisfied by a regulation of trade
which worked so manifestly against them,
and began to show signs of discontent. Upon
this a crafty and unprincipled trader revealed
a secret to the Blackbird, by which he might
acquire unbounded sway over his ignorant and
superstitious subjects. He instructed him in
the poisonous qualities of arsenic, and fur-
nished him with an ample supply of that bane-
230 Bstoria
ful drug. From this time the Blackbird
seemed endowed with supernatural powers, to
possess the gift of prophecy, and to hold the
disposal of life and death within his hands.
Woe to any one who questioned his authority
or dared to dispute his commands ! The Black-
bird prophesied his death within a certain
time, and he had the secret means of verifying
his prophecy. Within the fated period the
offender was smitten with strange and sudden
disease, and perished from the face of the
earth. Every one stood aghast at these multi-
plied examples of his superhuman might, and
dreaded to displease so omnipotent and vindic-
tive a being ; and the Blackbird enjoyed a
wide and undisputed sway.
It was not, however, by terror alone that he
ruled his people ; he was a warrior of the first
order, and his exploits in arms were the theme
of young and old. His career had begun by
hardships, having been taken prisoner by the
Sioux, in early youth. Under his command,
the Cmahas obtained great character for mili-
tary prowess ; nor did he permit an insult or
an injury to one of his tribe to pass unrevenged.
The Pawnee republicans had inflicted a gross
indignity on a favorite and distinguished
Omaha brave. The Blackbird assembled his
warfiors, led them against the Pawnee town,
JSlacfcbfrfc's prowess 231
attacked it with irresistible fury, slaughtered a
great number of its inhabitants, and burnt it to
the ground. He waged fierce and bloody war
against the Ottoes for many years, until peace
was effected between them by the mediation of
the whites. Fearless in battle, and fond of
signalizing himself, he dazzled his followers
by daring acts. In attacking a Kanza village,
he rode singly round it, loading and discharg-
ing his rifle at the inhabitants as he galloped
past them. He kept up in war the same idea
of mysterious and supernatural power. At
one time, when pursuing a war party by their
tracks across the prairies, he repeatedly dis-
charged his rifle into the prints made by their
feet and by the hoofs of their horses, assuring
his followers that he would thereby cripple the
fugitives, so that they would easily be over-
taken. He in fact did overtake them, and de-
stroyed them almost to a man ; and his victory
was considered miraculous both by friend and
foe. By these and similar exploits, he made
himself the pride and boast of his people, and
became popular among them, notwithstanding
his death-denouncing fiat.
With all his savage and terrific qualities, he
was sensible of the power of female beauty, and
capable of love. A war party of the Poncas
had made a foray into the lands of the Omahas,
232 Sstorta
and carried off a number of women and horses.
The Blackbird was roused to fury, and took
the field with all his braves, swearing to
" eat up the Ponca nation " — the Indian threat
of exterminating war. The Poncas, sorely
pressed took refuge behind a rude bulwark of
earth ; but the Blackbird kept up so galling a
fire, that he seemed likely to execute his
menace. In their extremity they sent forth
a herald, bearing the calumet or pipe of
peace, but he was shot down by order
of the Blackbird. Another herald was sent
forth in similar guise, but he shared a like
fate. The Ponca chief then, as a last hope,
arrayed his beautiful daughter in her finest
ornaments, and sent her forth with a calumet,
to sue for peace. The charms of the Indian
maid touched the stern heart of the Blackbird ;
he accepted the pipe at her hand, smoked it,
and from that time a peace took place between
the Poncas and the Omahas.
This beautiful damsel, in all probability, was
the favorite wife whose fate makes so tragic
an incident in the story of the Blackbird. Her
youth and beauty had gained an absolute sway
over his rugged heart, so that he distinguished
her above all his other wives. The habitual
gratification of his vindictive impulses, how-
ever, had taken away from him all mastery
Crime 233
over his passions, and rendered him liable to
the most furious transports of rage. In one of
these his beautiful wife had the misfortune to
offend him, when suddenly drawing his knife,
he laid her dead at his feet with a single blow.
In an instant his frenzy was at an end. He
gazed for a time in mute bewilderment upon
his victim ; then drawing his buffalo robe over
his head, he sat down beside the corpse, and
remained brooding over his crime and his loss.
Three days elapsed, yet the chief continued
silent and motionless ; tasting no food, and ap-
parently sleepless. It was apprehended that
he intended to starve himself to death ; his
people approached him in trembling awe, and
entreated him once more to uncover his face
and be comforted ; but he remained unmoved.
At length one of his warriors brought in a
small child, and laying it on the ground placed
the foot of the Blackbird upon its neck. The
heart of the gloomy savage was touched by
this appeal ; he threw aside his robe ; made an
harangue upon what he had done ; and from
that time forward seemed to have thrown the
load of grief and remorse from his mind.
He still retained his fatal and mysterious
secret, and with it his terrific power ; but,
though able to deal death to his enemies, he
could not avert it from himself or his friends.
234 Bstoria
In 1802 the small-pox, that dreadful pestilence,
which swept over the land like a fire over the
prairie, made its appearance in the village of
the Omahas. The poor savages saw with dis-
may the ravages of a malady, loathsome and
agonizing in its details, and which set the skill
and experience of their conjurers and medicine
men at defiance. In a little while, two thirds
of the population were swept from the face of
the earth, and the doom of the rest seemed
sealed. The stoicism of the warriors was at
an end ; they became wild and desperate ;
some set fire to the village as a last means of
checking the pestilence ; others, in a frenzy of
despair, put their wives and children to death,
that they might be spared the agonies of an
inevitable disease, and that they might all go
to some better country.
When the general horror and dismay was at
its height, the Blackbird himself was struck
down with the malady. The poor savages,
when they saw their chief in danger, forgot their
own miseries, and surrounded his dying bed.
His dominant spirit, and his love for the white
men, were evinced in his latest breath, with
which he designated his place of sepulture.
It was to be on a hill or promontory, upwards
of four hundred feet in height, overlooking a
great extent of the Missouri, from whence he
JSuriat of JSlacfcbirD 235
had been accustomed to watch for the barks
of the white men. The Missouri washes the
base of the promontory, and after winding and
doubling in many links and mazes in the plain
below, returns to within nine hundred yards
of its starting-place ; so that for thirty miles
navigating with sail and oar, the voyager finds
himself continually near to this singular prom-
ontory as if spellbound.
It was the dying command of the Blackbird
that his tomb should be on the summit of this
hill, in which he should be interred, seated
on his favorite horse, that he might overlook
his ancient domain, and behold the barks of
the white men as they came up the river to
trade with his people.
His dying orders were faithfully obeyed.
His corpse was placed astride of his war-steed
and a mound raised over them on the summit
of the hill. On top of the mound was erected
a staff, from which fluttered the banner of the
chieftain, and the scalps that he had taken in
battle. When the expedition under Mr. Hunt
visited that part of the country, the staff still
remained, with the fragments of the banner ;
and the superstitious rite of placing food from
time to time on the mound, for the use of the
deceased, was still observed by the Omahas.
That rite has since fallen into disuse, for the
236
Bstotia
tribe itself is almost extinct. Yet the hill of
the Blackbird continues an object of veneration
to the wandering savage, and a landmark to
the voyager of the Missouri ; and as the civil-
ized traveller comes within sight of its spell-
bound crest, the mound is pointed out to him
from afar, which still incloses the grim skele-
tons of the Indian warrior and his horse.
Cbapter £ IDU1T.
Rumors of Danger from the Sioux Tetons — Pirates of
the Missouri — Their Affair with Crooks and M'Lel-
lan — M'L/ellan's Vow of Vengeance — Departure
from the Omaha Village— Meeting with Jones and
Carson, two Adventurous Trappers — Scientific Pur-
suits of Messrs. Bradbury and Nuttall — Adventure
of Mr. Bradbury with a Ponca Indian — A Messenger
from Lisa — Motives for Pressing Forward.
WHILE Mr. Hunt and his party were
sojourning at the village of the
Omahas, three Sioux Indians of
the Yankton Ahna tribe arrived,
bringing unpleasant intelligence. They re-
ported that certain bands of the Sioux Tetons,
who inhabited a region manjr leagues farther
up the Missouri, were near at hand, awaiting
the approach of the party, with the avowed
intention of opposing their progress.
The Sioux Tetons were at that time a sort
of pirates of the Missouri, who considered the
237
238 Bstoria
well- freighted bark of the American trader fair
game. They had their own traffic with the
British merchants of the Northwest, who
brought them regular supplies of merchandise
by way of the river St. Peter. Being thus
independent of the Missouri traders for their
supplies, they kept no terms with them, but
plundered them whenever they had an oppor-
tunity. It has been insinuated that they were
prompted to these outrages by the British mer-
chants, who wished to keep off all rivals in the
Indian trade ; but others allege another motive,
and one savoring of a deeper policy. The
Sioux, by their intercourse with the British
traders, had acquired the use of fire-arms,
which had given them vast superiority over
other tribes higher up the Missouri. They had
made themselves also, in a manner, factors for
the upper tribes, supplying them at second
hand, and at greatly advanced prices, with
goods derived from the white men. The Sioux,
therefore, saw with jealousy the American
traders pushing their way up the Missouri ;
foreseeing that the upper tribes would thus be
relieved from all dependence on them for sup-
plies ; nay, what was worse, would be furnished
with fire-arms, and elevated into formidable
rivals.
We have already alluded to a case in which
pirates of tbe /BMsaouri 239
Mr. Crooks and Mr. M'Lellan had been inter-
rupted in a trading voyage by these ruffians of
the river, and, as it is in some degree con-
nected with circumstances hereafter to be
related, we shall specify it more particularly.
About two years before the time of which
we are treating, Crooks and M'Lellan were
ascending the river in boats with a party of
about forty men, bound on one of their trading
expeditions to the upper tribes. In one of the
bends of the river, where the channel made a
deep curve under impending banks, they sud-
denly heard yells and shouts above them, and
beheld the cliffs overhead covered with armed
savages. It was a band of Sioux warriors,
upwards of six hundred strong. They bran-
dished their weapons in a menacing manner,
and ordered the boats to turn back and land
lower down the river. There was no disputing
these commands, for they had the power to
shower destruction upon the white men with-
out risk to themselves. Crooks and M'l^ellan,
therefore, turned back with feigned alacrity,
and, landing, had an interview with the Sioux.
The latter forbade them, under pain of exter-
minating hostility, from attempting to proceed
up the river, but offered to trade peacefully
with them if they would halt where they were.
The party, being principally composed of
240 Bstoria
voyageurs, was too weak to contend with so
superior a force, and one so easily augmented ;
they pretended, therefore, to comply cheer-
fully with their arbitrary dictation, and im-
mediately proceeded to cut down trees and
erect a trading house. The warrior band de-
parted for their village, which was about twenty
miles distant, to collect objects of traffic ; they
left six or eight of their number, however, to
keep watch upon the white men, and scouts
were continually passing to and fro with
intelligence.
Mr. Crooks saw that it would be impossible
to prosecute his voyage without the danger of
having his boats plundered, and a great part
of his men massacred ; he determined, how-
ever, not to be entirely frustrated in the objects
of his expedition. While he continued, there-
fore, with great apparent earnestness and assi-
duity, the construction of the trading house,
he despatched the hunters and trappers of his
party in a canoe, to make their way up the
river to the original place of destination, there
to busy themselves in trapping and collecting
peltries, and to await his arrival at some future
period.
As soon as the detachment had had sufficient
time to ascend beyond the hostile country of
the Sioux, Mr. Crooks suddenly broke up his
Iflow 241
feigned trading establishment, embarked his
men and effects, and, after giving the aston-
ished rear-guard of savages a galling and in-
dignant message to take to their countrymen,
pushed down the river with all speed, sparing
neither oar nor paddle, day nor night, until
fairly beyond the swoop of these river hawks.
What increased the irritation of Messrs.
Crooks and M'L/ellan, at this mortifying check
to their gainful enterprise, was the information
that a rival trader was at the bottom of it ; the
Sioux, it is said, having been instigated to this
outrage by Mr. Manuel Lisa, the leading partner
and agent of the Missouri Fur Company, al-
ready mentioned. This intelligence, whether
true or false, so roused the fiery temper of
M'Lellan, that he swore, if ever he fell in with
Lisa in the Indian country, he would shoot
him on the spot ; a mode of redress perfectly
in unison with the character of the man, and
the code of honor prevalent beyond the frontier.
If Crooks and M'Lellan had been exasper-
ated by the insolent conduct of the Sioux
Tetons, and the loss which it had occasioned,
those freebooters had been no less indignant at
being outwitted by the white men, and dis-
appointed of their anticipated gains, and it was
apprehended they would be particularly hostile
against the present expedition, when they
TOL. I.— 16
242 Betorla
should learn that these gentlemen were engaged
in it.
All these causes of uneasiness were concealed
as much as possible from the Canadian voya-
geurs, lest they should become intimidated ; it
was impossible, however, to prevent the ru-
mors brought by the Indians from leaking
out, and they became subjects of gossiping
and exaggeration. The chief of the Omahas,
too, on returning from a hunting excursion,
reported that two men had been killed some
distance above, by a band of Sioux. This
added to the fears that already began to be
excited. The voyageurs pictured to themselves
bands of fierce warriors stationed along each
bank of the river, by whom they would be ex-
posed to be shot down in their boats ; or lurk-
ing hordes, who would set on them at night,
and massacre them in their encampments.
Some lost heart, and proposed to return, rather
than fight their way, and, in a manner, run the
gauntlet through the country of these piratical
marauders. In fact, three men deserted while
at this village. I,uckily, their place was sup-
plied by three others who happened to be there,
and who were prevailed on to join the expedi-
tion by promise of liberal pay, and by being
fitted out and equipped in complete style.
The irresolution and discontent visible among
TUneasfness fn tbe Camp 243
some of his people, arising at times almost to
mutiny, and the occasional desertions which
took place while thus among friendly tribes,
and within reach of the frontiers, added greatly
to the anxieties of Mr. Hunt, and rendered
him eager to press forward and leave a hostile
tract behind him, so that it would be as peril-
ous to return as to keep on, and no one would
dare to desert.
Accordingly, on the I5th of May he departed
from the village of the Omahas, and set for-
ward towards the country of the formidable
Sioux Tetons. For the first five days they
had a fair and fresh breeze, and the boats made
good progress. The wind then came ahead,
and the river beginning to rise, and to increase
in rapidity, betokened the commencement of
the annual flood, caused by the melting of the
snow on the Rocky Mountains, and the vernal
rains of the upper prairies.
As they were now entering a region where
foes might be lying in wait on either bank,
it was determined in hunting for game, to
confine themselves principally to the islands,
which extend to considerable length, and are
beautifully wooded, affording abundant pas-
turage and shade. On one of these they killed
three buffaloes and two elks, and halting on
the edge of a beautiful prairie, made a sump-
244 Bstoria
tuous hunter's repast. They had not long
resumed their boats and pulled along the river
banks when they descried a canoe approaching,
navigated by two men, whom, to their surprise,
they ascertained to be white men. They proved
to be two of those strange and fearless wan-
derers of the wilderness, the trappers. Their
names were Benjamin Jones and Alexander
Carson. They had been for two years past
hunting and trapping near the head of the
Missouri, and were thus floating for thousands
of miles in a cockle-shell, down a turbulent
stream, through regions infested by savage
tribes, yet apparently as easy and unconcerned
as if navigating securely in the midst of civili-
zation.
The acquisition of two such hardy, experi-
enced, and dauntless hunters was peculiarly
desirable at the present moment. They needed
but little persuasion. The wilderness is the
home of the trapper ; like the sailor, he cares
but little to which point of the compass he
steers ; and Jones and Carson readily aban-
doned their voyage to St. Louis, and turned
their faces towards the Rocky Mountains and
the Pacific.
The two naturalists, Mr. Bradbury and Mr.
Nuttall, who had joined the expedition at St.
Louis, still accompanied it, and pursued their
£'cal of a JBotanist 245
researches on all occasions. Mr. Nuttall seems
to have been exclusively devoted to his scien-
tific pursuits. He was a zealous botanist, and
all his enthusiasm was awakened at beholding
a new world, as it were, opening upon him in
the boundless prairies, clad in the vernal and
variegated robe of unknown flowers. When-
ever the boats landed at meal times, or for any
temporary purpose, he would spring on shore,
and set out on a hunt for new specimens. Kvery
plant or flower of a rare or unknown species
was eagerly seized as a prize. Delighted with
the treasures spreading themselves out before
him, he went groping and stumbling along
among the wilderness of sweets, forgetful of
everything but his immediate pursuit, and had
often to be sought after when the boats were
about to resume their course. At such times
he would be found far off in the prairies, or up
the course of some petty stream laden with
plants of all kinds.
The Canadian voyageurs, who are a class of
people that know nothing out of their imme-
diate line, and with constitutional levity make
a jest of anything they cannot understand,
were extremely puzzled by this passion for col-
lecting what they considered mere useless
weeds. When they saw the worthy botanist
coming back heavy laden with his specimens,
246
and treasuring them up as carefully as a
miser would his hoard, they used to make
merry among themselves at his expense,
regarding him as some whimsical kind of
madman.
Mr. Bradbury was less exclusive in his tastes
and habits, and combined the hunter and
sportsman with the naturalist. He took his
rifle or his fowling-piece with him in his geo-
logical researches, conformed to the hardy and
rugged habits of the men around him, and of
course gained favor in their eyes. He had a
strong relish for incident and adventure, was
curious in observing savage manners, and
savage life, and ready to join any hunting or
other excursion. Even now, that the expedi-
tion was proceeding through a dangerous
neighborhood, he could not check his propen-
sity to ramble. Having observed, on the
evening of the 22d of May, that the river
ahead made a great bend which would take up
the navigation of the following day, he deter-
mined to profit by the circumstance. On the
morning of the 23d, therefore, instead of em-
barking, he filled his shot-pouch with parched
corn, for provisions, and set off to cross the
neck on foot and meet the boats in the after-
noon at the opposite side of the bend. Mr.
Hunt felt uneasy at his venturing thus alone,
. JBraOburg's Sfcventure 247
and reminded him that he was in an enemy's
country ; but Mr. Bradbury made light of the
danger, and started off cheerily upon his ram-
ble. His day was passed pleasantly in trav-
ersing a beautiful tract, making botanical
and geological researches, and observing the
habits of an extensive village of prairie dogs,
at which he made several ineffectual shots,
without considering the risk he ran of attract-
ing the attention of any savages that might be
lurking in the neighborhood. In fact, he had
totally forgotten the Sioux Tetons, and all the
other perils of the country, when, about the
middle of the afternoon, as he stood near the
river bank, and was looking out for the boat,
he suddenly felt a hand laid on his shoulder.
Starting and turning round, he beheld a naked
savage with a bow bent, and the arrow pointed
at his breast. In an instant his gun was lev-
elled and his hand upon the lock. The Indian
drew his bow still farther, but forebore to
launch the shaft. Mr. Bradbury, with admir-
able presence of mind, reflected that the savage,
if hostile in his intents, would have shot him
without giving him a chance of defence ; he
paused, therefore, and held out his hand. The
other took it in sign of friendship, and de-
manded in the Osage language whether he
was a Big Knife, or American. He answered
248 Sstorfa
in the affirmative, and inquired whether the
other were a Sioux. To his great relief he
found that he was a Ponca. By this time two
other Indians came running up, and all three
laid hold of Mr. Bradbury and seemed disposed
to compel him to go off with them among the
hills. He resisted, and sitting down on a
sand hill contrived to amuse them with a pocket
compass. When the novelty of this was ex-
hausted they again seized him, but he now
produced a small microscope. This new won-
der again fixed the attention of the savages,
who have more curiousity than it has been the
custom to allow them. While thus engaged,
one of them suddenly leaped up and gave a
war-whoop. The hand of the hardy naturalist
was again on his gun, and he was prepared to
make battle, when the Indian pointed down the
river and revealed the true cause of his yell.
It was the mast of one of the boats appearing
above the low willows which bordered the
stream. Mr. Bradbury felt infinitely relieved
by the sight. The Indians, on their part, now
showed signs of apprehension, and were dis-
posed to run away ; but he assured them of
good treatment and something to drink if they
would accompany him on board of the boats.
They lingered for a time, but disappeared be-
fore the boats came to land.
B /Ifcesscmicr trom Xi»a 249
On the following morning they appeared at
camp accompanied by several of their tribe.
With them came also a white man, who an-
nounced himself as a messenger bearing mis-
sives for Mr. Hunt. In fact, he brought a
letter from Mr. Manuel Lisa, partner and agent
of the Missouri Fur Company. As has already
been mentioned, this gentleman was going in
search of Mr. Henry and his party, who had
been dislodged from the forks of the Missouri
by the Black feet Indians, and had shifted his
post somewhere beyond the Rocky Mountains.
Mr. Lisa had left St. Louis three weeks after
Mr. Hunt, and having heard of the hostile
intentions of the Sioux, had made the greatest
exertions to overtake him, that they might
pass through the dangerous part of the river
together. He had twenty stout oarsmen in his
service, and they plied their oars so vigorously
that he had reached the Omaha village just
four days after the departure of Mr. Hunt.
From this place he despatched the messenger in
question, trusting to his overtaking the barges
as they toiled up against the stream, and
were delayed by the windings of the river.
The purport of his letter was to entreat Mr.
Hunt to wait until he come up with him, that
they might unite their forces and be a protec-
tion to each other in their perilous course
250 Betoria
through the country of the Sioux. In fact, as
it was afterwards ascertained, Lisa was appre-
hensive that Mr. Hunt would do him some ill
office with the Sioux band, securing his own
passage through their country by pretending
that he, with whom they were accustomed to
trade, was on his way to them with a plentiful
supply of goods. He feared, too, that Crooks
and M'Lellan would take this opportunity to
retort upon him the perfidy which they accused
him of having used, two years previously,
among these very Sioux. In this respect, how-
ever, he did them signal injustice. There was
no such thing as covert design or treachery in
their thought ; but M'Lellan, when he heard
that Lisa was on his way up the river, renewed
his open threat of shooting him the moment he
met him on Indian land.
The representations made by Crooks and
M'Lellan of the treachery they had experi-
enced, or fancied, on the part of Lisa, had
great weight with Mr. Hunt, especially when
he recollected the obstacles that had been
thrown in his own way by that gentleman at
St. Louis. He doubted, therefore, the fair
dealing of Lisa, and feared that, should they
enter the Sioux country together, the latter
might make use of his influence with that
tribe, as he had in the case of Crooks and
tmnt's Suspicions 251
M'Lellan, and instigate them to oppose his
progress up the river.
He sent back, therefore, an answer calculated
to beguile Lisa, assuring him that he would
wait for him at the Poncas village, which was
but a little distance in advance ; but, no sooner
had the messenger departed, than he pushed
forward with all diligence, barely stopping at
the village to procure a supply of dried buffalo
meat, and hastening to leave the other party
as far behind as possible, thinking there was
less to be apprehended from the open hostility
of Indian foes than from the quiet strategy of
an Indian trader.
Cbapter glPf f f .
Camp Gossip — Kentucky Hunters — A Veteran Wood-
man — Tidings of Mr. Henry — Danger from the
Blackfeet— Country of the Sioux — A Land of Danger
— A Council of War — A Parley — The Pipe of Peace.
IT was about noon when the party left the
Poncas village, about a league beyond
which they passed the mouth of the Qui-
court, or Rapid River (called, in the origi-
nal French, Veau qui court}. After having
proceeded some distance farther, they landed,
and encamped for the night. In the evening
camp, the voyageurs gossiped, as usual, over
the events of the day ; and especially over
intelligence picked up among the Poncas.
These Indians had confirmed the previous
reports of the hostile intentions of the Sioux,
and had assured them that five tribes, or bands,
of that fierce nation were actually assembled
higher up the river, and waiting to cut them
off. This evening gossip, and the terrific
252
Sbree " DreaOnougbt " fcentucfctana 253
stories of Indian warfare to which it gave rise,
produced a strong effect upon the imaginations
of the irresolute ; and in the morning it was
discovered that the two men, who had joined
the party at the Omaha village, and been so
bounteously fitted out, had deserted in the
course of the night, carrying with them all
their equipments. As it was known that one
of them could not swim, it was hoped that the
banks of the Quicourt River would bring them
to a halt. A general pursuit was therefore
instituted, but without success.
On the following morning (May 26th), as
they were all on shore, breakfasting on one of
the beautiful banks of the river, they observed
two canoes descending along the opposite side.
By the aid of spy-glasses, they ascertained that
there were two white men in one of the canoes,
and one in the other. A gun was discharged,
which called the attention of the voyagers,
who crossed over. They proved to be three
Kentucky hunters, of the true ' ' dreadnought ' '
stamp. Their names were Kdward Robinson,
John Hoback, and Jacob Rezner. Robinson
was a veteran backwoodsman, sixty-six years
of age. He had been one of the first settlers
of Kentucky, and engaged in many of the con-
flicts of the Indians on ' ' the Bloody Ground. ' '
In one of these battles he had been scalped,
254 Bstoria
and he still wore a handkerchief bound round
his head to protect the part. These men had
passed several years in the upper wilderness.
They had been in the service of the Missouri
Company under Mr. Henry, and had crossed
the Rocky Mountains with him in the preced-
ing year, when driven from his post on the
Missouri by the hostilities of the Blackfeet.
After crossing the mountains, Mr. Henry had
established himself on one of the head branches
of the Columbia River. There they had re-
remained with him some months, hunting and
trapping, until, having satisfied their wander-
ing propensities, they felt disposed to return to
the families and comfortable homes which they
had left in Kentucky. They had accordingly
made their way back across the mountains,
and down the rivers, and were in full career
for St. L,ouis, when thus suddenly interrupted.
The sight of a powerful party of traders, trap-
pers, hunters, and voyageurs, well armed and
equipped, furnished at all points, in high
health and spirits, and banqueting lustily on
the green margin of the river, was a spectacle
equally stimulating to these veteran back-
woodsmen with the glorious array of a cam-
paigning army to an old soldier ; but when
they learned the grand scope and extent of
the enterprise in hand, it was irresistible ; homes
a Hew "Route 255
and families and all the charms of green Ken-
tucky vanished from their thoughts ; they
cast loose their canoes to drift down the stream,
and joyfully enlisted in the band of adventur-
ers. They engaged on similar terms with some
of the other hunters. The company was to
fit them out, and keep them supplied with the
requisite equipments and munitions, and they
were to yield one half of the produce of their
hunting and trapping.
The addition of three such staunch recruits
was extremely acceptable at this dangerous
part of the river. The knowledge of the
country which they had acquired, also, in their
journeys and hunting excursions along the
rivers and among the Rocky Mountains was
all important ; in fact, the information derived
from them induced Mr. Hunt to alter his
future course. He had hitherto intended to
proceed by the route taken by Lewis and
Clarke in their famous exploring expedition,
ascending the Missouri to its forks, and thence
going, by land, across the mountains. These
men informed him, however, that, on taking
that course he would have to pass through the
country infested by the savage tribe of the
Blackfeet, and would be exposed to their
hostilities ; they being, as has already been
observed, exasperated to deadly animosity
256 Bstoria
against the whites, on account of the death of
one of their tribe by the hand of Captain
L,ewis. They advised him rather to pursue
a route more to the southward, being the same
by which they had returned. This would
carry them over the mountains about where
the head waters of the Platte and the Yellow-
stone take their rise, at a place much more
easy and practicable than that where Lewis
and Clarke had crossed. In pursuing this
course, also, he would pass through a country
abounding with game, where he would have
a better chance of procuring a constant supply
of provisions than by the other route, and
would run less risk of molestation from the
Blackfeet. Should he adopt this advice, it
would be better for him to abandon the river
at the Arickara town, at which he would arrive
in the course of a few days. As the Indians
at that town possessed horses in abundance,
he might purchase a sufficient number of them
for his great journey overland, which would
commence at that place.
After reflecting on this advice, and consult-
ing with his associates, Mr. Hunt came to the
determination to follow the route thus pointed
out, to which the hunters engaged to pilot
him.
The party continued their voyage with de-
tawotfoY
tqa
the death of
-land of Captain
rather to pursue
a to?1 .ward, being the same
by jud returned. This would
mountains about where
ie Platte and the Yellow-
, at a place much more
i practicable than that where Lewis
ike had crossed. In pursuing this
>e, also, he would pass through a country
:g with game, where he would have
f procuring a constant supply
View of the Yellowstone River ate, and
d run bFromaphotdgiBffclestation from the
Blackfeet. Should he adopt this advice, it
would be better for him to abandon the river
at the Arickara town, at whic Id arrive
in the course of a fev the Indians
at that town possessed horses in abundance,
he might purchase a sufficient number of them
for his great jou: rland, which would
commence at that pi:
After r 'his advice, and consul t-
issociates, Mr. Hunt came to the
i to follow the route thus pointed
out, ii the hunters engaged to pilot
him.
The pv inued their voyage with de-
I
0
Scenerg of tbc IRiver 257
lightful May weather. The prairies bordering
on the river were gayly painted with innumer-
able flowers, exhibiting the motley confusion
of colors of a Turkey carpet. The beautiful
islands, also, on which they occasionally
halted, presented the appearance of mingled
grove and garden. The trees were often
covered with clambering grapevines in blossom,
which perfumed the air. Between the stately
masses of the groves were grassy lawns and
glades, studded with flowers, or interspersed
with rose-bushes in full bloom. These islands
were often the resort of the buffalo, the elk,
and the antelope, who had made innumerable
paths among the trees and thickets, which had
the effect of the mazy walks and alleys of
parks and shrubberies. Sometimes, where the
river passed between high banks and bluffs,
the roads, made by the tramp of buffaloes for
many ages along the face of the heights, looked
like so many well-travelled highways. At
other places the banks were branded with great
veins of iron ore, laid bare by the abrasion of
the river. At one place the course of the river
was nearly in a straight line for about fifteen
miles. The banks sloped gently to its margin,
without a single tree, but bordered with grass
and herbage of a vivid green. Along each
bank, for the whole fifteen miles, extended a
VOL. I. — 17
258 Astoria
stripe, one hundred yards in breadth, of a deep
rusty brown, indicating an inexhaustible bed
of iron, through the centre of which the Mis-
souri had worn its way. Indications of the
continuance of this bed were afterwards ob-
served higher up the river. It is, in fact, one
of the mineral magazines which nature has
provided in the heart of this vast realm of fer-
tility, and which, in connection with the im-
mense beds of coal on the same river, seem
garnered up as the elements of the future
wealth and power of the mighty West.
The sight of these mineral treasures greatly
excited the curiosity of Mr. Bradbury, and it
was tantalizing to him to be checked in his
scientific researches, and obliged to forego his
usual rambles on shore ; but they were now
entering the fated country of the Sioux Tetons,
in which it was dangerous to wander about
unguarded.
This country extends for some days' journey
along the river, and consists of vast prairies,
here and there diversified by swelling hills, and
cut up by ravines, the channels of turbid
streams in the rainy seasons, but almost desti-
tute of water during the heats of summer.
Here and there on the sides of the hills, or
along the alluvial borders and bottoms of the
ravines, are groves and skirts of forest : but
3Lanfc of Banker 259
for the most part the country presented to the
eye a boundless waste, covered with herbage,
but without trees.
The soil of this immense region is strongly
impregnated with sulphur, copperas, alum,
and glauber salts ; its various earths impart a
deep tinge to the streams which drain it, and
these, with the crumbling of the banks along
the Missouri, gives to the water of that river
much of the coloring matter with which they
are clouded.
Over this vast tract the roving bands of the
Sioux Tetons hold their vagrant sway, sub-
sisting by the chase of the buffalo, the elk,
the deer, and the antelope, and waging ruth-
less warfare with other wandering tribes.
As the boats made their way up the stream
bordered by this land of danger, many of the
Canadian voyageurs, whose fears had been
awakened, would regard with a distrustful eye
the boundless waste extending on each side.
All, however, was silent, and apparently un-
tenanted by a human being. Now and then a
herd of deer would be seen feeding tranquilly
among the flowery herbage, or a line of
buffaloes, like a caravan on its march, moving
across the distant profile of the prairie. The
Canadians, however, began to apprehend an
ambush in every thicket, and to regard the
260 Betorta
broad, tranquil plain as a sailor eyes some
shallow and perfidious sea, which, though
smooth and safe to the eye, conceals the lurk-
ing rock or treacherous shoal. The very name
of a Sioux became a watchword of terror. Not
an elk, a wolf, or any other animal, could
appear on the hills, but the boats resounded
with exclamations from stem to stern, "Voila
les Sioux! voila les Sioux /" (There are the
Sioux ! there are the Sioux !) Whenever it
was practicable, the night encampment was on
some island in the centre of the stream.
On the morning of the 3ist of May, as the
travellers were breakfasting on the right bank
of the river, the usual alarm was given, but
with more reason, as two Indians actually
made their appearance on a bluff on the oppo-
site or northeast side, and harangued them in
a loud voice. As it was impossible at that
distance to distinguish what they said, Mr.
Hunt, after breakfast, crossed the river with
Pierre Dorion, the interpreter, and advanced
boldly to converse with them, while the rest
remained watching in mute suspense the move-
ments of the parties. As soon as Mr. Hunt
landed, one of the Indians disappeared behind
the hill, but shortly reappeared on horseback,
and went scouring off across the heights. Mr.
Hunt held some conference with the remaining
Betorta
ranquil ; r eyes some
ow and perfriiiiti?* *ea, which, though
>th and safr conceals the lurk-
ing rock .joal. The very name
of a Sioux tk v atchword of terror. Not
an elk, a w any other animal, could
appear CM dls, but the boats resounded
with exclamations from stem to stern, "Voila
les S les Sioux /" (There are the
>ux !) Whenever it
ampment was on
ic stream.
On tlu Indians, Horse-racing the
travellers were breif&rom an old print
of the river, the usual alarm was given, but
with more reason, as two Indians actually
made their appearance on a bluff on the oppo-
site or north* irangued them in
a loud voice at that
distance to disi what they said, Mr.
Hunt, after breH-kt* i the river with
Pierre I \* interpreter, and advanced
boldly t< .*e with them, while the rest
remained watching in mute suspense themove-
mer parties. As soon as Mr. Hunt
ne of the Indians disappeared behind
hill, but shortly reappeared on horseback,
went scouring off across the heights. Mr.
t held some conference with the remaining
hostilities 261
savage, and then re-crossed the river to his
party.
These two Indians proved to be spies or
scouts of a large war party encamped about a
league off, and numbering two hundred and
eighty lodges, or about six hundred warriors,
of three different tribes of Sioux ; the Yang-
tons Ahna, the Tetons Bois-brule, and the
Tetons Min-na-kine-azzo. They expected daily
to be reinforced by two other tribes, and had
been waiting eleven days for the arrival of Mr.
Hunt's party, with a determination to oppose
their progress up the river ; being resolved to
prevent all trade of the white men with their
enemies, the Arickaras, Mandans, and Mina-
tarees. The Indian who had galloped off on
horseback had gone to give notice of the ap-
proach of the party, so that they might now
look out for some fierce scenes with those
piratical savages, of whom they had received
so many formidable accounts.
The party braced up their spirits to the en-
counter, and re-embarking, pulled resolutely
up the stream. An island for some time inter-
vened between them and the opposite side of
the river ; but, on clearing the upper end, they
came in full view of the hostile shore. There
was a ridge of hills down which the savages
were pouring in great numbers, some on horse-
262 Batoria
back, and some on foot. Reconnoitring them
with the aid of glasses, they perceived that
they were all in warlike array, painted and
decorated for battle. Their weapons were
bows and arrows, and a few short carbines,
and most of them had round shields. Alto-
gether they had a wild and gallant appearance,
and, taking possession of a point which com-
manded the river, ranged themselves along the
bank as if prepared to dispute their passage.
At sight of this formidable front of war, Mr.
Hunt and his companions held counsel together.
It was plain that the rumors they had heard
were correct, and the Sioux were determined
to oppose their progress by force of arms. To
attempt to elude them and continue along the
river was out of the question. The strength
of the midcurrent was too violent to be with-
stood, and the boats were obliged to ascend
along the river banks. These banks were often
high and perpendicular, affording the savages
frequent stations, from whence, safe themselves
and almost unseen, they might shower down
their missiles upon the boats below, and retreat
at will, without danger from pursuit. Nothing
apparently remained, therefore, but to fight or
turn back. The Sioux far out-numbered them,
it is true, but their own party was about sixty
strong, well armed and supplied with ammu-
preparations tor 2>efence 263
nition ; and, beside their guns and rifles, they
had a swivel and two howitzers mounted in the
boats. Should they succeed in breaking this
Indian force by one vigorous assault, it was
likely they would be deterred from making any
future attack of consequence. The fighting
alternative was, therefore, instantly adopted,
and the boats pulled to shore nearly opposite
to the hostile force. Here the arms were all
examined and put in order. The swivel and
howitzers were then loaded with powder and
discharged, to let the savages know by the
report how formidably they were provided.
The noise echoed along the shores of the river,
and must have startled the warriors who were
only accustomed to sharp reports of rifles.
The same pieces were then loaded with as
many bullets as they would probably bear ;
after which the whole party embarked, and
pulled across the river. The Indians remained
watching them in silence, their painted forms
and visages glaring in the sun, and their
feathers fluttering in the breeze. The poor
Canadians eyed them with rueful glances, and
now and then a fearful ejaculation escaped
them. " Parbleu ! this is a sad scrape we are
in, brother! " one would mutter to the next
oarsman. " Aye, aye ! " the other would reply,
' ' we are not going to a wedding, my friend ! ' '
264 Bstoria
When the boats arrived within rifle-shot, the
hunters and other fighting personages on board
seized their weapons, and prepared for action.
As they rose to fire, a confusion took place
among the savages. They displayed their
buffalo robes, raised them with both hands
above their heads, and then spread them before
them on the ground. At sight of this, Pierre
Dorion eagerly cried out to the party not to
fire, as this movement was a peaceful signal,
and an invitation to a parley. Immediately
about a dozen of the principal warriors, separat-
ing from the rest, descended to the edge of
the river, lighted a fire, seated themselves in a
semi-circle round it, and displaying the calumet,
invited the party to land. Mr. Hunt now called
a council of the partners on board of his boat.
The question was, whether to trust to the
amicable Overtures of these ferocious people ?
It was determined in the affirmative ; for,
otherwise, there was no alternative but to fight
them. The main body of the party were
ordered to remain on board of the boats, keep-
ing within shot and prepared to fire in case of
any signs of treachery ; while Mr. Hunt and
the other partners (M'Kenzie, Crooks, Miller,
and M'Lellan) proceeded to land, accompanied
by the interpreter and Mr. Bradbury. The
chiefs, who awaited them on the margin of the
IMpe ot peace 265
river, remained seated in their semi-circle, with-
out stirring a limb or moving a muscle, motion-
less as so many statues. Mr. Hunt and his
companions advanced without hesitation, and
took their seats on the sand so as to complete
the circle. The band of warriors who lined the
banks above stood looking down in silent groups
and clusters, some ostentatiously equipped and
decorated, others entirely naked but fantasti-
cally painted, and all variously armed.
The pipe of peace was now brought forward
with due ceremony. The bowl was of a species
of red stone resembling porphyry ; the stem
was six feet in length, decorated with tufts of
horse-hair dyed red. The pipe-bearer stepped
within the circle, lighted the pipe, held it
towards the sun, then towards the different
points of the compass, after which he handed
it to the principal chief. The latter smoked a
few whiffs, then, holding the head of the pipe
in his hand, offered the other end to Mr. Hunt,
and to each one successively in the circle.
When all had smoked, it was considered that
an assurance of good faith and amity had been
interchanged. Mr. Hunt now made a speech
in French, which was interpreted as he pro-
ceeded by Pierre Dorion. He informed the
Sioux of the real object of the expedition of
himself and his companions, which was, not
266 Bstoria
to trade with any of the tribes up the river,
but to cross the mountains to the great salt
lake in the west, in search of some of their
brothers, whom they had not seen for eleven
months. That he had heard of the intention
of the Sioux to oppose his passage, and was
prepared, as they might see, to effect it at all
hazards ; nevertheless, his feelings towards the
Sioux were friendly, in proof of which he
had brought them a present of tobacco and
corn. So saying, he ordered about fifteen
carottes of tobacco, and as many bags of corn,
to be brought from the boat and laid in a heap
near the council fire.
The sight of these presents mollified the
chieftain, who had, doubtless, been previously
rendered considerate by the resolute conduct of
the white men, the judicious disposition of
their little armament, the completeness of their
equipments, and the compact array of battle
which they presented. He made a speech in
reply, in which he stated the object of their
hostile assemblage, which had been merely to
prevent supplies of arms and ammunition from
going to the Arickaras, Mandans, and Mina-
tarees, with whom they were at war ; but now
being convinced that the party were carrying
no supplies of the kind, but merely proceeding
in quest of their brothers beyond the moon-
Smfcable Close of tbe Conference 267
tains, they would not impede them in their
voyage. He concluded by thanking them for
their present, and advising them to encamp on
the opposite side of the river, as he had some
young men among his warriors for whose dis-
cretion he could not be answerable, and who
might be troublesome.
Here ended the conference; they all arose,
shook hands and parted. Mr. Hunt and his
companions re-embarked, and the boats pro-
ceeded on their course unmolested.
Cbapter
The Great Bend of the Missouri — Crooks and M'Lel-
lan Meet with Two of their Indian Opponents —
Dangers and Precautions — An Indian War Party —
A Friendly Encampment — Approach of Manuel
Lisa and his Party — A Grim Meeting between Old
Rivals.
ON the afternoon of the following day
(June ist) they arrived at the great
bend, where the river winds for about
thirty miles round a circular penin-
sula, the neck of which is not above two thous-
and yards across. On the succeeding morning,
at an early hour, they descried two Indians
standing on a high bank of the river, waving
and spreading their buffalo robes in signs of
amity. They immediately pulled to shore, and
landed. On approaching the savages, how-
ever, the latter showed evident symptoms of
alarm, spreading out their arms horizontally,
according to their mode of supplicating clem-
268
Cbe UnNan's 3Law of IRevenge 269
ency. The reason was soon explained. They
proved to be two chiefs of the very war party
that had brought Messrs. Crooks and M'I,ellan
to a stand two years before, and obliged them
to escape down the river. They ran to embrace
these gentlemen, as if delighted to meet with
them ; yet they evidently feared some retalia-
tion of their past misconduct, nor were they
quite at ease until the pipe of peace had been
smoked.
Mr. Hunt having been informed that the
tribe to which these men belonged had killed
three white men during the preceding summer,
reproached them with the crime, and demanded
their reasons for such savage hostility. "We
kill white men," replied one of the chiefs, " be-
cause white men kill us. That very man,"
added he, pointing to Carson, one of the new
recruits, " killed one of our brothers last sum-
mer. Three white men were slain to avenge
his death."
Their chief was correct in his reply. Carson
admitted that, being with a party of Arickaras
on the banks of the Missouri, and seeing a
war party of Sioux on the opposite side, he had
fired with his rifle across. It was a random
shot, made without much expectation of effect,
for the river was full half a mile in breadth.
Unluckily it brought down a Sioux warrior,
270 Bstorta
for whose wanton destruction threefold ven-
geance had been taken, as has been stated. In
this way outrages are frequently committed
on the natives by thoughtless or mischievous
white men ; the Indians retaliate according to
a law of their code, which requires blood for
blood ; their act, of what with them is pious
vengeance, resounds throughout the land, and
is represented as wanton and unprovoked ; the
neighborhood is roused to arms ; a war ensues,
which ends in the destruction of half the tribe,
the ruin of the rest, and their expulsion from
their hereditary homes. Such is too often the
real history of Indian warfare, which in gen-
eral is traced up only to some vindictive act of
a savage ; while the outrage of the scoundrel
white man that provoked it is sunk in silence.
The two chiefs, having smoked their pipe of
peace and received a few presents, departed
well satisfied. In a little while two others
appeared on horseback, and rode up abreast of
the boats. They had seen the presents given
to their comrades, but were dissatisfied with
them, and came after the boats to ask for more.
Being somewhat peremptory and insolent in
their demands, Mr. Hunt gave them a flat
refusal, and threatened, if they or any of their
tribe followed him with similar demands, to
treat them as enemies. They turned and rode
3>anger£ and precautions 271
off in a furious passion. As he was ignorant
what force these chiefs might have behind the
hills, and as it was very possible they might
take advantage of some pass of the river to
attack the boats, Mr. Hunt called all stragglers
on board and prepared for such emergency. It
was agreed that the large boat commanded by
Mr. Hunt should ascend along the northeast
side of the river, and the three smaller boats
along the south side. By this arrangement
each party would command a view of the oppo-
site heights above the heads and out of sight
of their companions, and could give the alarm
should they perceive any Indians lurking there.
The signal of alarm was to be two shots fired
in quick succession.
The boats proceeded for the greater part of
the day without seeing any signs of an enemy.
About four o'clock in the afternoon the large
boat, commanded by Mr. Hunt, came to where
the river was divided by a long sand-bar, which
apparently, however, left a sufficient channel
between it and the shore along which they
were advancing. He kept up this channel,
therefore, for some distance, until the water
proved too shallow for the boat. It was neces-
sary, therefore, to put about, return down the
channel, and pull round the lower end of the
sand-bar into the main stream. Just as he
272 Bstoria
had given orders to this effect to his men, two
signal guns were fired from the boats on the
opposite side of the river. At the same mo-
ment, a file of savage warriors was observed
pouring down from the impending bank, and
gathering on the shore at the lower end of the
bar. They were evidently a war party, being
armed with bows and arrows, battle clubs and
carbines, and round bucklers of buffalo hide,
and their naked bodies were painted with black
and wlrte stripes. The natural inference was,
that they belonged to the two tribes of Sioux
which had been expected by the great war
party, and that they had been incited to hostil-
ity by the two chiefs who had been enraged by
the refusal and the menace of Mr. Hunt.
Here, then, was a fearful predicament. Mr.
Hunt and his crew seemed caught, as it were,
in a trap. The Indians, to the number of
about a hundred, had already taken possession
of a point near which the boat would have to
pass : others kept pouring down the bank, and
it was probable that some would remain posted
on the top of the height.
The hazardous situation of Mr. Hunt was
perceived by those in the other boats, and they
hastened to his assistance. They were at some
distance above the sand-bar, however, and on
the opposite side of the river, and saw, with
f nfcfan jfrienDs 273
intense anxiety, the number of savages contin-
ually augmenting, at the lower end of the
channel, so that the boat would be exposed to
a fearful attack before they could render it any
assistance. Their anxiety increased, as they
saw Mr. Hunt and his party descending the
channel and dauntlessly approaching the point
of danger ; but it suddenly changed into sur-
prise on beholding the boat pass close by the
savage horde unmolested, and steer out safely
into the broad river.
The next moment the whole band of warriors
was in motion. They ran along the bank until
they were opposite to the boats, then throwing
by their weapons and buffalo robes, plunged
into the river, waded and swam off to the
boats and surrounded them in crowds, seeking
to shake hands with every individual on board ;
for the Indians have long since found this to
be the white man's token of amity, and they
carry it to an extreme.
All uneasiness was now at an end. The
Indians proved to be a war party of Arickaras,
Mandans, and Minatarees, consisting of three
hundred warriors and bound on a foray against
the Sioux. Their war plans were abandoned
for the present, and they determined to return
to the Arickara town, where they hoped to
obtain from the white men arms and ammuni-
VOL. t.— 1 8
274 Bstorla
tion that would enable them to take the field
with advantage over their enemies.
The boats now sought the first convenient
place for encamping. The tents were pitched ;
the warriors fixed their camp at about a hun-
dred yards distant ; provisions were furnished
from the boats sufficient for all parties ; there
was hearty though rude feasting in both camps,
and in the evening the red warriors entertained
their white friends with dances and songs, that
lasted until after midnight.
On the following morning (July 3d) the travel-
lers re-embarked, and took a temporary leave
of their Indian friends, who intended to pro-
ceed immediately for the Arickara town, where
they expected to arrive in three days, long
before the boats could reach there. Mr. Hunt
had not proceeded far before the chief came
galloping along the shore and made signs for a
parley. He said his people could not go home
satisfied unless they had something to take
with them to prove that they had met white
men. Mr. Hunt understood the drift of the
speech, and made the chief a present of a cask
of powder, a bag of balls, and three dozen of
knives, with which he was highly pleased.
While the chief was receiving these presents
an Indian came running along the shore, and
announced that a boat, filled with white men,
Bpproacb of Xtea 275
was coming up the river. This was by no means
agreeable tidings to Mr. Hunt, who correctly
concluded it to be the boat of Mr. Manuel Lisa ;
and he was vexed to find that alert and adven-
turous trader upon his heels, whom he hoped
to have out-manoeuvred, and left far behind.
Lisa, however, was too much experienced in
the wiles of Indian trade to be lulled by the
promise of waiting for him at the Poncas vil-
lage ; on the contrary, he had allowed himself
no repose, and had strained every nerve to
overtake the rival party, and availing himself
of the moonlight, had even sailed during a
considerable part of the night. In this he was
partly prompted by his apprehensions of the
Sioux, having met a boat which had probably
passed Mr. Hunt's party in the night, and
which had been fired into by these savages.
On hearing that Lisa was so near at hand,
Mr. Hunt perceived that it was useless to at-
tempt any longer to evade him ; after proceed-
ing a few miles farther, therefore, he came to
a halt and waited for him to come up. In a
little while the barge of Lisa made its appear-
ance. It came sweeping gently up the river,
manned by its twenty stout oarsmen, and armed
by a swivel mounted at the bow. The whole
number on board amounted to twenty-six men :
among whom was Mr. Henry Breckenridge,
276 Bstoria
then a young, enterprising man ; who was a
mere passenger, tempted by notions of curiosity
to accompany Mr. Lisa. He has since made
himself known by various writings, among
which may be noted a narrative of this very
voyage.
The approach of Lisa, while it was regarded
with uneasiness by Mr. Hunt, roused the ire
of M'Lellan ; who, calling to mind old griev-
ances, began to look round for his rifle, as if
he really intended to carry his threat into exe-
cution and shoot him on the spot ; and it was
with some difficulty that Mr. Hunt was enabled
to restrain his ire, and prevent a scene of out-
rage and confusion.
The meeting between the two leaders, thus
mutually distrustful, could not be very cordial :
and as to Messrs. Crooks and M'Lellan, though
they refrained from any outbreak, yet they re-
garded in grim defiance their old rival and
underplotter. In truth, a general distrust pre-
vailed throughout the party concerning Lisa
and his intentions. They considered him art-
ful and slippery, and secretly anxious for the
failure of their expedition. There being now
nothing more to be apprehended from the
Sioux, they suspected that Lisa would take
advantage of his twenty-oared barge to leave
them and get first among the Arickaras. As
Pierre Borfon an£> 3Ltea 277
he had traded with those people and possessed
great influence over them, it was feared he
might make use of it to impede the business
of Mr. Hunt and his party. It was resolved,
therefore, to keep a sharp look-out upon his
movements ; and M'L,ellan swore that if he saw
the least sign of treachery on his part, he would
instantly put his old threat into execution.
Notwithstanding these secret jealousies and
heart-burnings, the two parties maintained an
outward appearance of civility, and for two days
continued forward in company with some de-
gree of harmony. On the third day, however,
an explosion took place, and it was produced
by no less a personage than Pierre Dorion, the
half-breed interpreter. It will be recollected
that this worthy had been obliged to steal a
march from St. Louis, to avoid being arrested
for an old whiskey debt which he owed to the
Missouri Fur Company, and by which Mr.
Lisa had hoped to prevent his enlisting in Mr.
Hunt's expedition. Dorion, since the arrival
of Lisa, had kept aloof and regarded him with
a sullen and dogged aspect. On the 5th of
July the two parties were brought to a halt by
a heavy rain, and remained encamped about a
hundred yards apart. In the course of the
day Lisa undertook to tamper with the faith
of Pierre Dorion, and, inviting him on board
278 Sstoria
of his boat, regaled him with his favorite
whiskey. When he thought him sufficiently
mellowed, he proposed to him to quit the ser-
vice of his new employers and return to his
old allegiance. Finding him not to be moved
by soft words, he called to mind his old debt
to the company, and threatened to carry him
off by force, in payment of it. The mention
of this debt always stirred up the gall of Pierre
Dorion, bringing with it the remembrance of
the whiskey extortion. A violent quarrel
arose between him and Lisa, and he left the
boat in high dudgeon. His first step was to
repair to the tent of Mr. Hunt and reveal the
attempt that had been made to shake his faith.
While he was yet talking Lisa entered the
tent, under the pretext of coming to borrow a
towing line. High words instantly ensued be-
tween him and Dorion, which ended by the
half-breed's dealing him a blow. A quarrel
in the ' ' Indian country, ' ' however, is not to
be settled with fisticuffs. Lisa immediately
rushed to his boat for a weapon. Dorion
snatched up a pair of pistols belonging to Mr.
Hunt, and placed himself in battle array. The
noisehad roused the camp, and everyone pressed
to know the cause. Lisa now reappeared upon
the field with a knife stuck in his girdle. Mr.
Breckenridge, who had tried in vain to mollify
•fount Challenges Xisa 279
his ire, accompanied him to the scene of action.
Pierre Do ri on 's pistols gave him the advantage,
and he maintained a most warlike attitude.
In the meantime, Crooks and M'Lellan had
learnt the cause of the affray, and were each
eager to take the quarrel into their own
hands. A scene of uproar and hubbub ensued
that defies description. M'Lellan would have
brought his rifle into play and settled all old
and new grudges by a pull of the trigger, had
he not been restrained by Mr. Hunt. That
gentleman acted as moderator, endeavoring to
prevent a general mel£e ; in the midst of the
brawl, however, an expression was made use
of by Lisa derogatory to his own honor. In
an instant the tranquil spirit of Mr. Hunt was
in a flame. He now became as eager for the
fight as any one on the ground, and challenged
Lisa to settle the dispute on the spot with pis-
tols. Lisa repaired to his boat to arm himself
for the deadly feud. He was followed by
Messrs. Bradbury and Breckenridge, who,
novices in Indian life and the "chivalry" of
the frontier, had no relish for scenes of blood
and brawl. By their earnest mediation the
quarrel was brought to a close without blood-
shed ; but the two leaders of the rival camps
separated in anger, and all personal intercourse
ceased between them.
Cbapter ££
Features of the Wilderness— John Day — Interview
with Three Arickaras— Negotiations between the
Rival Parties — Arickara Village — Ceremonials on
Landing — A Council Lodge — Encampment of the
Trading Parties.
THE rival parties now coasted along the
opposite sides of the river, within
sight of each other ; the barges of
Mr. Hunt always keeping some dis-
tance in the advance, lest Lisa should push on
and get first to the Arickara village. The
scenery and objects, as they proceeded, gave
evidence that they were advancing deeper and
deeper into the domains of savage nature.
Boundless wastes kept extending to the eye,
more and more animated by herds of buffalo.
Sometimes these unwieldy animals were seen
moving in long procession across the silent
landscape ; at other times they were scattered
about, singly or in groups, on the broad, en-
280
JBuffalos, Beer, an& antelopes 281
amelled prairies and green acclivities, some
cropping the rich pasturage, others reclining
amidst the flowery herbage ; the whole scene
realizing in a manner the old Scriptural de-
scriptions of the vast pastoral countries of
the Orient, with ' ' cattle upon a thousand
hills."
At one place the shores seemed absolutely
lined with buffaloes ; many were making their
way across the stream, snorting, and blowing,
and floundering. Numbers, in spite of every
effort, were borne by the rapid current within
shot of the boats, and several were killed. At
another place a number were descried on the
beach of a small island, under the shade of
the trees, or standing in the water, like cattle,
to avoid the flies and the heat of the day.
Several of the best marksmen stationed
themselves in the bow of a barge which ad-
vanced slowly and silently, stemming the cur-
rent with the aid of a broad sail and a fair
breeze. The buffaloes stood gazing quietly at
the barge as it approached, perfectly uncon-
scious of their danger. The fattest of the herd
was selected by the hunters, who all fired
together and brought down their victim.
Beside the buffaloes they saw abundance of
deer, and frequent gangs of stately elks, to-
gether with light troops of sprightly antelopes,,
282 Bstoria
the fleetest and most beautiful inhabitants of
the prairies.
There are two kinds of antelopes in these
regions, one nearly the size of the common
deer, the other not much larger than a goat.
Their color is a light gray, or rather dun,
slightly spotted with white ; and they have
small horns like those of the deer, which they
never shed. Nothing can surpass the delicate
and elegant finish of their limbs, in which
lightness, elasticity, and strength are wonder-
fully combined. All the attitudes and move-
ments of this beautiful animal are graceful
and picturesque ; and it is altogether as fit a
subject for the fanciful uses of the poet as the
oft-sung gazelle of the Kast.
Their habits are shy and capricious ; they
keep on the open plains, are quick to take the
alarm, and bound away with a fleetness that
defies pursuit. When thus skimming across a
prairie in the autumn, their light gray or dun
color blends with the hue of the withered her-
bage, the swiftness of their motion baffles the
eye, and they almost seem unsubstantial forms,
driven like gossamer before the wind.
While they thus keep to the open plain and
trust to their speed, they are safe ; but they
have a prurient curiosity that sometimes betrays
them to their ruin. When they have scud for
Curfositg of tbe antelope 283
some distance and left their pursuer behind,
they will suddenly stop and turn to gaze at
the object of their alarm. If the pursuit is
not followed up they will, after a time, yield
to their inquisitive hankering, and return to the
place from whence they have been frightened.
John Day, the veteran hunter already men-
tioned, displayed his experience and skill in
entrapping one of these beautiful animals.
Taking advantage of its well-known curiosity,
he laid down flat among the grass, and putting
his handkerchief on the end of his ramrod,
waved it gently in the air. This had the effect
of the fabled fascination of the rattlesnake.
The antelope approached timidly, pausing and
reconnoitring with increased curiosity ; mov-
ing round the point of attraction in a circle,
but still drawing nearer and nearer, until being
within range of the deadly rifle, he fell a
victim to his curiosity.
On the loth of June, as the party were mak-
ing brisk progress with a fine breeze, they met
a canoe with three Indians descending the
river. They came to a parley, and brought
news from the Arickara village. The war
party, which had caused such alarm at the
sand-bar, had reached the village some days
previously, announced the approach of a party
of traders, and displayed with great ostentation
284 Bstoria
the presents they had received from them.
On further conversation with these three Indi-
ans, Mr. Hunt learnt the real danger which he
had run, when hemmed up within the sand-
bar. The Mandans, who were of the war
party, when they saw the boat so completely
entrapped and apparently within their power,
had been eager for attacking it, and securing
so rich a prize. The Minatarees, also, were
nothing loth, feeling in some measure com-
mitted in hostility to the whites, in conse-
quence of their tribe having killed two white
men above the fort of the Missouri Fur Com-
pany. Fortunately, the Arickaras, who formed
the majority of the war party, proved true
in their friendship to the whites, and prevented
any hostile act, otherwise a bloody affray,
and perhaps a horrible massacre might have
ensued.
On the nth of June, Mr. Hunt and his com-
panions encamped near an island about six
miles below the Arickara village. Mr. Lisa
encamped, as usual, at no great distance ; but
the same sullen and jealous reserve, and non-
intercourse continued between them. Shortly
after pitching the tents, Mr. Breckenridge
made his appearance as an ambassador from
the rival camp. He came, on behalf of his
companions, to arrange the manner of making
Bn Brfcfcara Bmbassg 285
their entrance into the village and of receiving
the chiefs ; for everything of the kind is a
matter of grave ceremonial among the Indians.
The partners now expressed frankly their
deep distrust of the intentions of Mr. I^isa, and
their apprehensions, that, out of the jealousy
of trade, and resentment of recent disputes, he
might seek to instigate the Arickaras against
them. Mr. Breckenridge assured them that
their suspicions were entirely groundless, and
pledged himself that nothing of the kind
should take place. He found it difficult, how-
ever, to remove their distrust ; the conference,
therefore, ended without producing any cordial
understanding ; and M'lyellan recurred to his
old threat of shooting L,isa the instant he dis-
covered anything like treachery in his pro-
ceedings.
That night the rain fell in torrents, accom-
panied by thunder and lightning. The camp
Was deluged, and the bedding and baggage
drenched. All hands embarked at an early
hour, and set forward for the village. About
nine o'clock, when halfway, they met a canoe,
on board of which weretwoArickara dignitaries.
One, a fine-looking man, much above the com-
mon size, was hereditary chief of the village ;
he was called the Left-handed, on account of a
personal peculiarity. The other, a ferocious-
286 Bstorfa
looking savage, was the war chief, or general-
issimo ; he was known by the name of the Big
Man, an appellation he well deserved from his
size, for he was of a gigantic frame. Both were
of fairer complexion than is usual with savages.
They were accompanied by an interpreter ;
a French Creole, one of those haphazard wights
of Gallic origin who abound upon our frontier,
living among the Indians like one of their own
race. He had been twenty years among the
Arickaras, had a squaw and troop of piebald
children, and officiated as interpreter to the
chiefs. Through this worthy organ the two
dignitaries signified to Mr. Hunt their sover-
eign intention to oppose the further progress
of the expedition up the river unless a boat
were left to trade with them. Mr. Hunt, in
reply, explained the object of his voyage, and
his intention of debarking at their village and
proceeding thence by land ; and that he would
willingly trade with them for a supply of horses
for his journey. With this explanation they
were perfectly satisfied, and putting about,
steered for their village to make preparations
for the reception of the strangers.
The village of the Rikaras, Arickaras, or
Ricarees, for the name is thus variously written,
is between the 46th and 47 th parallels of north
latitude, and fourteen hundred and thirty miles
Cbe Milage of tbe IRifcaras 287
above the mouth of the Missouri. The party
reached it about ten o'clock in the morning,
but landed on the opposite side of the river,
where they spread out their baggage and ef-
fects to dry. From hence they commanded
an excellent view of the village. It was di-
vided into two portions, about eighty yards
apart, being inhabited by two distinct bands.
The whole extended about three quarters of a
mile along the river bank, and was composed
of conical lodges, that looked like so many
small hillocks, being wooden frames inter-
twined with osier, and covered with earth.
The plain beyond the village swept up into
hills of considerable height, but the whole
country was nearly destitute of trees. While
they were regarding the village, they beheld
a singular fleet coming down the river. It
consisted of a number of canoes, each made of
a single buffalo hide stretched on sticks, so as
to form a kind of circular trough. Bach one
was navigated by a single squaw, who knelt
in the bottom and paddled ; towing after her
frail bark a bundle of floating wood intended
for firing. This kind of canoe is in frequent
use among the Indians ; the buffalo hide being
readily made up into a bundle and transported
on horseback ; it is very serviceable in convey-
ing baggage across the rivers.
288 Bstoria
The great number of horses grazing around
the village, and scattered over the neighbor-
ing hills and valleys, bespoke the equestrian
habit of the Arickaras, who are admirable
horsemen. Indeed, in the number of his
horses consists the wealth of an Indian of the
prairies, who resembles an Arab in his passion
for this noble animal, and in his adroitness in
the management of it.
After a time, the voice of the sovereign chief,
" the Left-handed," was heard across the river,
announcing that the council lodge was prepar-
ing, and inviting the white men to come over.
The river was half a mile in width, yet every
word uttered by the chieftain was heard ; this
may be partly attributed to the distinct man-
ner in which every syllable of the compound
words in the Indian languages is articulated
and accented ; but, in truth, a savage warrior
might often rival Achilles himself for force of
lungs.*
Now came the delicate point of management
— how the two rival parties were to conduct
their visit to the village with proper circum-
spection and due decorum. Neither of the
leaders had spoken to each other since their
quarrel. All communication had been by am-
bassadors, Seeing the jealousy entertained
* Bradbury, p. no.
'
dug arotind
cr the neighbor-
poke the equestrian
habit of ;io are admirable
horsemen. I.:j«.k- the number of his
horses consi :i of an Indian of the
prai resembles an Arab in his passion
for imal, and in his adroitness in
the maiiagftnent of it.
f the sovereign chief,
d," was heard across the river,
s prepar-
me over,
Mandan Village and Buffalo-Hide Boats yery
v attributed to the distinct man-
iinpound
langua, rticulated
i savage warrior
inself for force of
Mieate point of management
parties were to conduct
the village with proper circum-
•e decorum. Neither of the
ken to each other since their
iimunication had been by am-
MMftdors. Setting the jealousy entertained
* Bmdbury, p. no.
•Reception bg tbe Cbiet 289
of Lisa, Mr. Breckenridge, in his negotiation,
had arranged that a deputation from each party
should cross the river at the same time, so that
neither would have the first access to the ear
of the Arickaras.
The distrust of Lisa, however, had increased
in proportion as they approached the sphere
of action ; and M'Lellan, in particular, kept a
vigilant eye upon his motions, swearing to shoot
him if he attempted to cross the river first.
About two o'clock the large boat of Mr.
Hunt was manned, and he stepped on board,
accompanied by Messrs. M'Kenzie and M' Lei-
Ian ; Lisa at the same time embarked in his
barge ; the two deputations amounted in all to
fourteen persons, and never was any movement
of rival potentates conducted with more wary
exactness.
They landed amidst a rabble crowd, and were
received on the bank by the left-handed-chief,
who conducted them into the village with grave
courtesy ; driving to the right and left the
swarms of old squaws, imp-like boys, and vaga-
bond dogs, with which the place abounded.
They wound their way between the cabins,
which looked like dirt-heaps huddled together
without any plan, and surrounded by old pali-
sades ; all filthy in the extreme, and redolent
of villainous smells.
VOL. I. — 19
Bstorfa
At length they arrived at the council lodge.
It was somewhat spacious, and formed of four
forked trunks of trees placed upright, support-
ing cross-beams and a frame of poles interwoven
with osiers, and the whole covered with earth.
A hole sunken in the centre formed the fire-
place, and immediately above was a circular
hole in the apex of the lodge, to let out the
smoke and let in the daylight. Around the
lodge were recesses for sleeping, like the berths
on board ships, screened from view by curtains
of dressed skins. At the upper end of the
lodge was a kind of hunting and warlike
trophy, consisting of two buffalo heads gair-
ishly painted, surmounted by shields, bows,
quivers of arrows, and other weapons.
On entering the lodge the chief pointed to
mats or cushions which had been placed around
for the strangers and on which they seated them-
selves, while he placed himself on a kind of
stool. An old man then came forward with the
pipe of peace or good-fellowship, lighted and
handed it to the chief, and then falling back,
squatted himself near the door. The pipe was
passed from mouth to mouth, each one taking a
whiff, which is equivalent to the inviolable
pledge of faith, of taking salt together among
the ancient Britons. The chief then made a
sign to the old pipe-bearer, who seemed to fill,
<3ranD Conference 291
likewise, the station of herald, seneschal, and
public crier, for he ascended to the top of the
lodge to make proclamation. Here he took his
post beside the aperture for the emission of
smoke and the admission of light ; the chief
dictated from within what he was to proclaim
and he bawled it forj;h with a force of lungs
that resounded over all the village. In this
way he summoned the warriors and great men
to council ; every now and then reporting pro-
gress to his chief through the hole in the roof.
In a little while the braves and sages began
to enter one by one, as their names were called
or announced, emerging from under the buffalo
robe suspended over the entrance instead of a
door, stalking across the lodge to the skins placed
on the floor, and crouching down on them in
silence. By this way twenty entered and took
their seats, forming an assemblage worthy of
the pencil : for the Arickaras are a noble race
of men, large and well formed, and maintain
a savage grandeur and gravity of demeanor in
their solemn ceremonials.
All being seated, the old seneschal prepared
the pipe of ceremony or council, and having
lit it, handed it to the chief. He inhaled the
sacred smoke, gave a puff upward to the hea-
ven, then downward to the earth, then towards
the east ; after this it was as usual passed from
292 Bstoria
mouth to mouth, each holding it respectfully
until his neighbor had taken several whiffs :
and now the grand council was considered as
opened in due form.
The chief made an harangue welcoming the
white men to his village, and expressing his
happiness in taking them by the hand as friends ;
but at the same time complaining of the poverty
of himself and his people ; the usual prelude
among Indians to begging or hard bargaining.
I/isa rose to reply, and the eyes of Hunt and
his companions were eagerly turned upon him,
those of M'L,ellan glaring like a basilisk's.
He began by the usual expressions of friend-
ship, and then proceeded to explain the object
of his own party. * ' Those persons, however, ' '
said he, pointing to Mr. Hunt and his compan-
ions, " are of a different party, and are quite
distinct in their views; but," added he, "though
we are separate parties, we make but one
common cause when the safety of either is
concerned. Any injury or insult offered to
them I shall consider as done to myself, and
will resent it accordingly. I trust, therefore,
that you will treat them with the same friend-
ship that you have always manifested for me,
doing everything in your power to serve them
and to help them on their way." The speech
of Lisa, delivered with an air of frankness
•negotiation for f>orsea 293
and sincerity, agreeably surprised and disap-
pointed the rival party.
Mr. Hunt then spoke, declaring the object
of his journey to the great Salt L,ake beyond
the mountains, and that he should want horses
for the purpose, for which he was ready to
trade, having brought with him plenty of
goods. Both he and L,isa concluded their
speeches by making presents of tobacco.
The left-handed chieftain in reply promised
his friendship and aid to the new-comers, and
welcomed them to his village. He added that
they had not the number of horses to spare
that Mr. Hunt required, and expressed a doubt
whether they should be able to part with any.
Upon this, another chieftain, called Gray Eyes,
made a speech, and declared that they could
readily supply Mr. Hunt with all the horses
he might want, since if they had not enough
in the village, they could easily steal more.
This honest expedient immediately removed
the main difficulty ; but the chief deferred all
trading for a day or two ; until he should have
time to consult with his subordinate chiefs as
to market rates ; for the principal chief of a
village, in conjunction with his council, usually
fixes the prices at which articles shall be
bought and sold, and to them the village
must conform.
294 Bstoria
The council now broke up. Mr. Hunt trans-
ferred his camp across the river at a little dis-
tance below the village, and the left-handed
chief placed some of his warriors as guard to
prevent the intrusion of any of his people.
The camp was pitched on the river bank just
above the boats. The tents, and the men
wrapped in their blankets and bivouacking on
skins in the open air, surrounded the baggage at
night. Four sentinels also kept watch within
sight of each other outside of the camp until
midnight, when they were relieved by four
others who mounted guard until daylight.
Mr. lyisa encamped near to Mr. Hunt, between
him and the village.
The speech of Mr. Lisa in the council had
produced a pacific effect in the encampment.
Though the sincerity of his friendship and
good -will towards the new company still re-
mained matter of doubt, he was no longer sus-
pected of an intention to play false. The
intercourse between the two leaders was there-
fore resumed, and the affairs of both parties
went on harmoniousty.
Cbaptet f f fl*
An Indian Horse Fair — Indian Hospitality — Duties
of Indian Women — Game Habits of the Men —
— Indian Dogs — An Indian Deputation — Dress of
the Arickaras — Triumphal Entry of the War Party
— Indian Sensibility — Festivities and Lamentations.
A TRADE now commenced with the
Arickaras under the regulation and
supervision of their two chieftains.
Lisa sent a part of his goods to the
lodge of the left-handed dignitary, and Mr.
Hunt established his mart in the lodge of the
Big Man. The village soon presented the ap-
pearance of a busy fair ; and as horses were in
demand, the purlieus and the adjacent plain
were like the vicinity of a Tartar encampment ;
horses were put through all their paces, and
horsemen were careering about with that dex-
terity and grace for which the Arickaras are
noted. As soon as a horse was purchased, his
tail was cropped, a sure mode of distinguishing
295
296 Sstoria
him from the horses of the tribe ; for the In-
dians disdain to practise this absurd, barbar-
ous, and indecent mutilation, invented by some
mean and vulgar mind, insensible to the merit
and perfections of the animal. On the con-
trary, the Indian horses are suffered to remain
in every respect the superb and beautiful ani-
mals which nature formed them.
The wealth of an Indian of the far West con-
sists principally in his horses, of which each
chief and warrior possesses a great number, so
that the plains about an Indian village or en-
campment are covered with them. These form
objects of traffic, or objects of depredation, and
in this way pass from tribe to tribe over great
tracts of country. The horses owned by the
Arickaras are, for the most part, of the wild
stock of the prairies ; some, however, had been
obtained from the Poncas, Pawnees, and other
tribes to the southwest, who had stolen them
from the Spaniards in the course of horse-
stealing expeditions into the Mexican territo-
ries. These were to be known by being branded ;
a Spanish mode of marking horses not practised
by the Indians.
As the Arickaras were meditating another
expedition against their enemies the Sioux,
the articles of traffic most in demand were
guns, tomahawks, scalping-knives, powder,
Domestic TLife of an ITnoian 297
ball, and other munitions of war. The price
of a horse, as regulated by the chiefs, was
commonly ten dollars' worth of goods at first
cost. To supply the demand thus suddenly
created, parties of young men and braves had
sallied forth on expeditions to steal horses ; a
species of service among the Indians which
takes precedence of hunting, and is considered
a department of honorable warfare.
While the leaders of the expedition were ac-
tively engaged in preparing for the approaching
journey, those who had accompanied it for
curiosity or amusement, found ample matter
for observation in the village and its inhabi-
tants. Wherever they went they were kindly
entertained. If they entered a lodge, the buf-
falo robe was spread before the fire for them to
sit down ; the pipe was brought, and while the
master of the lodge conversed with his guests,
the squaw put the earthen vessel over the fire,
well filled with dried buffalo-meat and pounded
corn ; for the Indian in his native state, before
he has mingled much with white men, and ac-
quired their sordid habits, has the hospitality
of the Arab ; never does a stranger enter his
door without having food placed before him ;
and never is the food thus furnished made a
matter of traffic.
The life of an Indian when at home in his
298 Bstoria
village is a. life of indolence and amusement.
To the woman is consigned the labors of the
household and the field ; she arranges the
lodge ; brings wood for the fire ; cooks ; jerks
venison and buffalo meat ; dresses the skins of
the animals killed in the chase ; cultivates the
little patch of maize, pumpkins, and pulse,
which furnishes a great part of their provisions.
Their time for repose and recreation is at sun-
set, when the labors of the day being ended,
they gather together to amuse themselves with
petty games, or to hold gossiping convocations
on the tops of their lodges.
As to the Indian, he is a game animal, not
to be degraded by useful or menial toil. It is
enough that he exposes himself to the hard-
ships of the chase and the perils of war ; that
he brings home food for his family, and watches
and fights for its protection. Everything else
is beneath his attention. When at home, he
attends only to his weapons and his horses,
preparing the means of future exploit. Or he
engages with his comrades in games of dexter-
ity, agility and strength ; or in gambling games
in which everything is put at hazard with a
recklessness seldom witnessed in civilized life.
A great part of the idle leisure of the Indians,
when at home, is passed in groups, squatted
together on the bank of a river, on the top of a
Blarming IRumore 299
mound on the prairie, or on the roof of one of
their earth-covered lodges, talking over the
news of the day, the affairs of the tribe, the
events and exploits of their last hunting or
fighting expedition ; or listening to the stories
of old times told by some veteran chronicler ;
resembling a group of our village quidnuncs
and politicians, listening to the prosings of
some superannuated oracle, or discussing the
contents of an ancient newspaper.
As to the Indian women, they are far from
complaining of their lot. On the contrary, they
would despise their husbands could they stoop
to any menial office, and would think it con-
veyed an imputation upon their own conduct.
It is the worst insult one virago can cast upon
another in a moment of altercation. " Infa-
mous woman ! ' ' will she cry, ' * I have seen
your husband carrying wood into his lodge to
make the fire. Where was his squaw, that he
should be obliged to make a woman of him-
self!"
Mr. Hunt and his fellow-travellers had not
been many days at the Arickara village, when
rumors began to circulate that the Sioux had
followed them up, and that a war party, four
or five hundred in number, were lurking some-
where in the neighborhood. These rumors
produced much embarrassment in the camp-
300 Bstorta
The white hunters were deterred from ventur-
ing forth in quest of game, neither did the
leaders think it proper to expose them to such
a risk. The Arickaras, too, who had suffered
greatly in their wars with this cruel and fero-
cious tribe, were roused to increased vigilance,
and stationed mounted scouts upon the neigh-
boring hills. This, however, is a general pre-
caution among the tribes of the prairies.
Those immense plains present a horizon like
the ocean, so that any object of importance can
be descried afar, and information communicated
to a great distance. The scouts are stationed
on the hills, therefore, to look out both for
game and for enemies, and are, in a manner,
living telegraphs conveying their intelligence
by concerted signs. If they wish to give notice
of a herd of buffalo in the plain beyond, they
gallop backwards and forwards abreast, on the
summit of the hill. If they perceive an enemy
at hand, they gallop to and fro, crossing each
other ; at sight of which the whole village flies
to arms.
Such an alarm was given in the afternoon of
the 1 5th. Four scouts were seen crossing and
recrossing each other at full gallop, on the
summit of a hill about two miles distant down
the river. The cry was up that the Sioux
were coming. In an instant the village was
Bn Sricfcara JEjcttemcnt 301
in an uproar. Men, women, and children were
all brawl ing and shouting ; dogs barking, yelp-
ing, and howling. Some of the warriors ran
for the horses to gather and drive them in from
the prairie, some for their weapons. As fast
as they could arm and equip they sallied forth ;
some on horseback, some on foot. Some
hastily arrayed in their war dress, with coro-
nets of fluttering feathers, and their bodies
smeared with paint ; others naked and only
furnished with the weapons they had snatched
up. The women and children gathered on the
tops of the lodges and heightened the confusion
of the scene by their vociferation. Old men who
could no longer bear arms took similar stations,
and harangued the warriors as they passed,
exhorting them to valorous deeds. Some of
the veterans took arms themselves, and sallied
forth with tottering steps. In this way, the
savage chivalry of the village to the number
of five hundred, poured forth, helter-skelter,
riding and running, with hideous yells and
war-whoops, like so many bedlamites or demo-
niacs let loose.
After a while the tide of war rolled back,
but with far less uproar. Either it had been a
false alarm, or the enemy had retreated on
finding themselves discovered, and quiet was
restored to the village. The white hunters con-
302 Bstoria
tinuing to be fearful of ranging this dangerous
neighborhood, fresh provisions began to be
scarce in the camp. As a substitute, therefore,
for venison and buffalo meat, the travellers
had to purchase a number of dogs to be shot
and cooked for the supply of the camp. Fortu-
nately, however chary the Indians might be
of their horses, they were liberal of their dogs.
In fact, these animals swarm about an Indian
village as they do about a Turkish town. Not
a family but has two or three dozen belonging
to it, of all sizes and colors ; some of a superior
breed are used for hunting ; others, to draw
the sledge, while others, of a mongrel breed,
and idle vagabond nature, are fattened for food.
They are supposed to be descended from the
wolf, and retain something of his savage but
cowardly temper, howling rather than barking ;
showing their teeth and snarling on the
slightest provocation, but sneaking away on
the least attack.
The excitement of the village continued from
day to day. On the day following the alarm
just mentioned, several parties arrived from
different directions, and were met and con-
ducted by some of the braves to the council
lodge, where they reported the events and
success of their expeditions, whether of war or
hunting ; which news was afterwards promul-
a Cbegenne BmbassB 303
gated throughout the village, by certain old
men who acted as heralds or town criers.
Among the parties which arrived was one that
had been among the Snake nation stealing
horses, and returned crowned with success.
As they passed in triumph through the village
they were cheered by the men, women, and
children, collected as usual on the tops of the
lodges, and were exhorted by the Nestors of
the village to be generous in their dealings with
the white men.
The evening was spent in feasting and re-
joicing among the relations of the successful
warriors ; but the sounds of grief and wailing
were heard from the hills adjacent to the
village — the lamentations of women who had
lost some relative in the foray.
An Indian village is subject to continual
agitations and excitements. The next day
arrived a deputation of braves from the Chey-
enne or Shienne nation ; a broken tribe, cut
up, like the Arickaras, by wars with the Sioux,
and driven to take refuge among the Black
Hills, near the sources of the Cheyenne River,
from which they derive their name. One of
these deputies was magnificently arrayed in a
buffalo robe, on which various figures were
fancifully embroidered with split quills dyed
red and yellow ; and the whole was fringed
304 astorfa
with the slender hoofs of young fawns, that
rattled as he walked.
The arrival of this deputation was the signal
for another of those ceremonials which occupy
so much of Indian life ; for no being is more
courtly and punctilious, and more observing of
etiquette and formality than an American
savage.
The object of the deputation was to give
notice of an intended visit of the Shienne (or
Cheyenne) tribe to the Arickara village in the
course of fifteen days. To this visit Mr. Hunt
looked forward to procure additional horses
for his journey ; all his bargaining being inef-
fectual in obtaining a sufficient supply from
the Arickaras. Indeed, nothing could prevail
upon the latter to part with their prime horses,
which had been trained to buffalo hunting.
As Mr. Hunt would have to abandon his
boats at this place, Mr. Lisa now offered to
purchase them, and such of his merchandise
as was superfluous, and to pay him in horses
to be obtained at a fort belonging to the Mis-
souri Fur Company, situated at the Mandan
villages, about a hundred and fifty miles far-
ther up the river. A bargain was promptly
made, and Mr. Lisa and Mr. Crooks, with sev-
eral companions, set out for the fort to procure
the horses. They returned, after upwards of
jf resb Blarms 305
a fortnight's absence, bringing with them the
stipulated number of horses. Still the cavalry
was not sufficiently numerous to convey the
party and baggage and merchandise, and a few
days more were required to complete the ar-
rangements for the journey.
On the Qth of July, just before daybreak, a
great noise and vociferation was heard in the
village. This being the usual Indian hour of
attack and surprise, and the Sioux being known
to be in the neighborhood, the camp was in-
stantly on the alert. As the day broke Indians
were descried in considerable number on the
bluffs, three or four miles down the river. The
noise and agitation in the village continued.
The tops of the lodges were crowded with the
inhabitants, all earnestly looking toward the
hills, and keeping up a vehement chattering.
Presently an Indian warrior galloped past the
camp towards the village, and in a little while
the legions began to pour forth.
The truth of the matter was now ascertained.
The Indians upon the distant hills were three
hundred Arickara braves, returning home from
a foray. They had met the war party of Sioux
who had been so long hovering about the neigh-
borhood, had fought them the day before,
killed several, and defeated the rest with the
loss of but two or three of their own men and
306 Bstoria
about a dozen wounded ; and they were now
halting at a distance until their comrades in
the village should come forth to meet them,
and swell the parade of their triumphal entry.
The warrior who had galloped past the camp
was the leader of the party hastening home to
give tidings of his victory.
Preparations were now made for this great
martial ceremony. All the finery and equip-
ments of the warriors were sent forth to them,
that they might appear to the greatest advan-
tage. Those, too, who had remained at home,
tasked their wardrobes and toilets to do honor
to the procession.
The Arickaras generally go naked, but, like
all savages, they have their gala dress, of which
they are not a little vain. This usually consists
of a gray surcoat and leggings of the dressed
skin of the antelope, resembling chamois
leather, and embroidered with porcupine quills
brilliantly dyed. A buffalo robe is thrown over
the right shoulder, and across the left is slung
a quiver of arrows. They wear gay coronets
of plumes, particularly those of the swan ; but
the feathers of the black eagle are considered
the most worthy, being a sacred bird among
the Indian warriors. He who has killed an
enemy in his own land, is entitled to drag at
his heels a fox-skin attached to each rnocca-
Bn fnDfan toilet 307
sin ; and he who has slain a grizzly bear, wears
a necklace of his claws, the most glorious trophy
that a hunter can exhibit.
An Indian toilet is an operation of some toil
and trouble ; the warrior often has to paint
himself from head to foot, and is extremely ca-
pricious and difficult to please, as to the hid-
eous distribution of streaks and colors. A great
part of the morning, therefore, passed away
before there were any signs of the distant pa-
geant. In the meantime a profound stillness
reigned over the village. Most of the inhabi-
tants had gone forth ; others remained in mute
expectation. All sports and occupations were
suspended, excepting that in the lodges the
painstaking squaws were silently busied in pre-
paring the repasts for the warriors.
It was near noon that a mingled sound of
voices and rude music, faintly heard from a
distance, gave notice that the procession was
on the march. The old men and such of the
squaws as could leave their employments has-
tened forth to meet it. In a little while it
emerged from behind a hill, and had a wild
and picturesque appearance as it came moving
over the summit in measured step, and to the
cadence of songs and savage instruments ; the
warlike standards and trophies flaunting aloft,
and the feathers, and paint, and silver orna-
308 Bstocia
ments of the warriors glaring and glittering
in the sunshine.
The pageant had really something chival-
rous in its arrangement. The Arickaras are
divided into several bands, each bearing the
name of some animal or bird, as the buffalo,
the bear, the dog, the pheasant. The present
party consisted of four of these bands, one of
which was the dog, the most esteemed on war,
being composed of young men under thirty,
and noted for prowess. It is engaged in the
most desperate occasions. The bands marched
in separate bodies under their several leaders.
The warriors on foot came first, in platoons
of ten or twelve abreast ; then the horsemen.
Kach band bore as an ensign a spear or bow
decorated with beads, porcupine quills, and
painted feathers. Kach bore its trophies of
scalps, elevated on poles, their long black locks
streaming in the wind. Each was accompa-
nied by its rude music and minstrelsy. In
this way the procession extended nearly a
quarter of a mile. The warriors were vari-
ously armed, some few with guns, others with
bows and arrows and war clubs ; all had
shields of buffalo hide, a kind of defence gen-
erally used by the Indians of the open prairies,
who have not the covert of trees and forests
to protect them. They were painted in the
acfumpbant procession 309
most savage style. Some had the stamp of a
red hand across their mouths, a sign that they
had drunk the life-blood of a foe !
As they drew near to the village the old
men and the women began to meet them, and
now a scene ensued that proved the fallacy of
the old fable of Indian apathy and stoicism.
Parents and children, husbands and wives,
brothers and sisters met with the most raptur-
ous expressions of joy ; while wailings and
lamentations were heard from the relatives of
the killed and wounded. The procession, how-
ever, continued on with slow and measured
step, in cadence to the solemn chant, and the
warriors maintained their fixed and stern de-
meanor.
Between two of the principal chiefs rode a
young warrior who had distinguished himself
in the battle. He was severely wounded, so
as with difficulty to keep on his horse ; but he
preserved a serene and steadfast countenance,
as if perfectly unharmed. His mother had
heard of his condition. She broke through
the throng, and rushing up, threw her arms
around him and wept aloud. He kept up the
spirit and demeanor of a warrior to the last,
but expired shortly after he had reached his
home.
The village was now a scene of the utmost
310 Bstoria
festivity and triumph. The banners, and tro-
phies, and scalps, and painted shields were
elevated on poles near the lodges. There were
war-feasts, and scalp-dances, with warlike
songs and savage music ; all the inhabitants
were arrayed in their festal dresses ; while the
old heralds went round from lodge to lodge,
promulgating with loud voices the events of
the battle and the exploits of the various
warriors.
Such was the boisterous revelry of the vil-
lage ; but sounds of another kind were heard
on the surrounding hills ; piteous wailings of
the women, who had retired thither to mourn
in darkness and solitude for those who had
fallen in battle. There the poor mother of the
youthful warrior, who had returned home in
triumph but to die, gave full vent to the an-
guish of a mother's heart. How much does
this custom among the Indian women of re-
pairing to the hilltops in the night, and pouring
forth their wailings for the dead, call to mind
the beautiful and affecting passage of Scripture:
" In Rama was there a voice heard, lamenta-
tion, and weeping, and great mourning, Ra-
chel weeping for her children, and would not
be comforted, because they are not."
unners, and tro-
^hields were
There were
and •*€;; ath warlike
:d sava^; , all the inhabitants
arrayed in i tal dresses ; while the
md from lodge to lodge,
promulgating with loud voices the events of
the battle and the exploits of the various
warn
Such v velry of the vil-
1 were heard
["S of
The Mourner
Woodcut. Drawn by F. S. Church
er of the
iiful warrior, who had returned home in
triumph but gave full vent to the an-
h of a mother's heart. How much does
among the Indian women of re-
pairing to the hilltops in the night, and pouring
forth their wailings for the dead, call to mind
the beautiful and affecting passage of Scripture:
" In as there a voice heard, lamenta-
tion, and weeping, and great mourning, Ra-
chel weeping for her children, and would not
be comforted, because they are not."
1
Cbapter
Wilderness of the Far West — Great American Desert
—Black Hills— Rocky Mountains— Wandering and
Predatory Hordes — Speculations on What may be
the Future Population — Rose, the Interpreter — His
Sinister Character — Departure from the Arickara
Village.
WHILE Mr. Hunt was diligently pre-
paring for his arduous journey,
some of his men began to lose
heart at the perilous prospect be-
fore them ; but before we accuse them of want
of spirit, it is proper to consider the nature of
the wilderness into which they were about to
adventure. It was a region almost as vast and
trackless as the ocean, and, at the time of
which we treat, but little known, excepting
through the vague accounts of Indian hunters.
A part of their route would lay across an im-
mense tract, stretching north and south for
hundreds of miles along the foot of the Rocky
Mountains, and drained by the tributary
312 Bstorta
streams of the Missouri and the Mississippi.
This region, which resembles one of the im-
measurable steppes of Asia, has not inaptly
been termed "the great American desert."
It spreads forth into undulating and treeless
plains, and desolate sandy wastes wearisome to
the eye from their extent and monotony, and
which are supposed by geologists to have
formed the ancient floor of the ocean, count-
less ages since, when its primeval waves beat
against the granite bases of the Rocky Moun-
tains.
It is a land where no man permanently
abides ; for, in certain seasons of the year
there is no food either for the hunter or his
steed. The herbage is parched and withered ;
the brooks and streams are dried up ; the buf-
falo, the elk, and the deer have wandered to
distant parts, keeping within the verge of ex-
piring verdure, and leaving behind them a
vast uninhabited solitude, seamed by ravines,
the beds of former torrents, but now serving
only to tantalize and increase the thirst of the
traveller.
Occasionally the monotony of this vast wil-
derness is interrupted by mountainous belts
of sand and limestone, broken into confused
masses ; with precipitous cliffs and yawning
ravines, looking like the ruins of a world ; or
THflflfcerness of tbc afar Tldest 313
is traversed by lofty and barren ridges of rock,
almost impassable, like those denominated the
Black Hills. Beyond these rise the stern
barriers of the Rocky Mountains, the limits,
as it were, of the Atlantic world. The rugged
defiles and deep valleys of this vast chain form
sheltering places for restless and ferocious
bands of savages, many of them the remnants
of tribes, once inhabitants of the prairies, but
broken up by war and violence, and who carry
into their mountain haunts the fierce passions
and reckless habits of desperadoes.
Such is the nature of this immense wilder-
ness of the far West ; which apparently defies
cultivation, and the habitation of civilized life.
Some portions of it along the rivers may par-
tially be subdued by agriculture, others may
form vast pastoral tracts, like those of the
Bast ; but it is to be feared that a great part
of it will form a lawless interval between the
abodes of civilized man, like the wastes of the
ocean or the deserts of Arabia ; and, like them,
be subject to the depredations of the marauder.
Here may spring up new and mongrel races,
like new formations in geology, the amalga-
mation of the ' ' debris ' ' and ' ' abrasions ' ' of
former races, civilized and savage ; the remains
of broken and almost extinguished tribes ; the
descendants of wandering hunters and trap-
314 2l0torfa
pers ; of fugitives from the Spanish and Amer-
ican frontiers ; of adventurers and desperadoes
of every class and country, yearly ejected from
the bosom of society into the wilderness. We
are contributing incessantly to swell this singu-
lar and heterogeneous cloud of wild population
that is to hang about our frontier, by the trans-
fer of whole tribes from the east of the Missis-
sippi to the great wastes of the far West.
Many of these bear with them the smart of
real or fancied inj uries ; many consider them-
selves expatriated beings, wrongfully exiled
from their hereditary homes, and the sepul-
chres of their fathers, and cherish a deep and
abiding animosity against the race that has dis-
possessed them. Some may gradually become
pastoral hordes, like those rude and migratory
people, half shepherd, half warrior, who, with
their flocks and herds, roam the plains of upper
Asia ; others, it is to be apprehended, will
become predatory bands, mounted on the fleet
steeds of the prairies, with the open plains for
their marauding grounds, and the mountains
for their retreats and lurking-places. Here
they may resemble those great hordes of the
North, " Gog and Magog with their bands,"
that haunted the gloomy imaginations of the
prophets. "A great company and a mighty
host, all riding upon horses, and warring upon
BpprebenDefc Bangers 315
those nations which were at rest, and dwelt
peaceably, and had gotten cattle and goods."
The Spaniards changed the whole character
and habits of the Indians when they brought
the horse among them. In Chili, Tucuman,
and other parts, it has converted them, we are
told, into Tartar-like tribes, and enabled them
to keep the Spaniards out of their country, and
even to make it dangerous for them to venture
far from their towns and settlements. Are we
not in danger of producing some such state of
things in the boundless regions of the far West ?
That these are not mere fanciful and extrava-
gant suggestions we have sufficient proofs in
the dangers already experienced by the trad-
ers to the Spanish mart of Santa Fe, and to
the distant posts of the fur companies. These
are obliged to proceed in armed caravans, and
are subject to murderous attacks from bands
of Pawnees, Comanches, and Blackfeet, that
come scouring upon them in their weary march
across the plains, or lie in wait for them among
the passes of the mountains.
We are wandering, however, into excursive
speculations, when our intention was merely
to give an idea of the nature of the wilderness
which Mr. Hunt was about to traverse ; and
which at that time was far less known than at
present ; though it still remains, in a great
316 Bstoria
measure, an unknown land. We cannot be
surprised, therefore, that some of the least res-
olute of his party should feel dismay at the
thought of adventuring into this perilous wil-
derness under the uncertain guidance of three
hunters, who had merely passed once through
the country and might have forgotten the
landmarks. Their apprehensions were ag-
gravated by some of Lisa's followers, who,
not being engaged in the expedition, took
a mischievous pleasure in exaggerating its
dangers. They painted in strong colors, to
the poor Canadian voyageurs, the risk they
would run of perishing with hunger and
thirst ; of being cut off by war-parties of
the Sioux who scoured the plains ; of hav-
ing their horses stolen by the Upsarokas or
Crows, who infested the skirts of the Rocky
Mountains ; or of being butchered by the Black-
feet, who lurked among the defiles. In a word,
there was little chance of their getting alive
across the mountains ; and even if they did,
those three guides knew nothing of the howl-
ing wilderness that lay beyond.
The apprehensions thus awakened in the
minds of some of the men came well-nigh
proving detrimental to the expedition. Some
of them determined to desert, and to make
their way back to St. Louis. They accordingly
Crow Indians 317
purloined several weapons and a barrel of gun-
powder, as ammunition for their enterprise,
and buried them in the river bank, intending
to seize one of the boats, and make off in the
night. Fortunately their plot was overheard
by John Day, the Kentuckian, and communi-
cated to the partners, who took quiet and
effectual means to frustrate it.
The dangers to be apprehended from the
Crow Indians had not been overrated by the
camp gossips. These savages, through whose
mountain haunts the party would have to
pass, were noted for daring and excursive
habits, and great dexterity in horse stealing.
Mr. Hunt, therefore, considered himself fortu-
nate in having met with a man who might be
of great use to him in any intercourse he might
have with the tribe. This was a wandering
individual named Edward Rose, whom he had
picked up somewhere on the Missouri, one of
those anomalous beings found on the frontier,
who seem to have neither kin nor country.
He lived some time among the Crows, so as to
become acquainted with their language and
customs ; and was, withal, a dogged, sullen,
silent fellow, with a sinister aspect, and more
of the savage than the civilized man in his
appearance. He was engaged to serve in gen-
eral as a hunter, but as guide and interpreter
astotia
when they should reach the country of the
Crows.
On the i8th of July, Mr. Hunt took up his
line of March by land from the Arickara vil-
lage, leaving Mr. Lisa and Mr. Nuttall there,
where they intended to await the expected
arrival of Mr. Henry from the Rocky Moun-
tains. As to Messrs. Bradbury and Brecken-
ridge they had departed some days previously,
on a voyage down the river to St. Louis, with
a detachment from Mr. Lisa's party. With all
his exertions, Mr. Hunt had been unable to
obtain a sufficient number of horses for the
accommodation of all his people. His caval-
cade consisted of eighty-two horses, most of
them heavily laden with Indian goods, beaver
traps, ammunition, Indian corn, corn meal, and
other necessaries. Each of the partners was
mounted, and a horse was allotted to the inter-
preter, Pierre Dorion, for the transportation of
his luggage and his two children. His squaw,
for the most part of the time, trudged on foot,
like the residue of the party ; nor did any of
the men show more patience and fortitude than
this resolute woman in enduring fatigue and
hardship.
The veteran trappers and voyageurs of Lisa's
party shook their heads as their comrades set
out, and took leave of them as of doomed men ;
departure trom tbe Bricfcacas 319
and even Lisa himself gave it as his opinion,
after the travellers had departed, they would
never reach the shores of the Pacific, but would
either perish with hunger in the wilderness,
or be cut off by the savages.
Cbapter
Summer Weather of the Prairies — Purity of the At-
mosphere — Canadians on the March — Sickness
in the Camp — Big River — Suggestions About the
Original Indian Names — Character of the Chey-
ennes — Historical Anecdotes of the Tribe.
THE course taken by Mr. Hunt was at
first to the northwest, but soon turned
and kept generally to the southwest,
to avoid the country infested by the
Blackfeet. His route took him across some of
the tributary streams of the Missouri, and over
immense prairies, bounded only by the horizon,
and destitute of trees. It was now the height
of summer, and these naked plains would be
intolerable to the traveller were it not for the
breezes which sweep over them during the
fervor of the day, bringing with them temper-
ing airs from the distant mountains. To the
prevalence of these breezes, and to the want
of all leafy covert, may we also attribute the
320
Gbe Btmogpbere of tbe prairies 321
freedom from those flies and other insects so
tormenting to man and beast during the sum-
mer months, in the lower plains, which are
bordered and interspersed with woodland.
The monotony of these immense landscapes,
also, would be as wearisome as that of the
ocean, were it not relieved in some degree by
the purity and elasticity of the atmosphere,
and the beauty of the heavens. The sky has
that delicious blue for which the sky of Italy
is renowned ; the sun shines with a splendor
unobscured by any cloud or vapor, and a star-
light night on the prairies is glorious. This
purity and elasticity of atmosphere increases
as the traveller approaches the mountains and
gradually rises into more elevated prairies.
On the second day of the journey, Mr. Hunt
arranged the party into small and convenient
messes, distributing among them the camp
kettles. The encampments at night were as
before ; some sleeping under tents, and others
bivouacking in the open air. The Canadians
proved as patient of toil and hardship on the
land as on the water ; indeed, nothing could
surpass the patience and good-humor of these
men upon the march. They were the cheerful
drudges of the party, loading and unloading
the horses, pitching the tents, making the fires,
cooking ; in short, performing all those house-
322 Bstotfa
hold and menial offices which the Indians
usually assign to the squaws ; and, like the
squaws, they left all the hunting and fighting
to others. A Canadian has but little affection
for the exercise of the rifle.
The progress of the party was but slow for
the first few days. Some of the men were
indisposed ; Mr. Crooks, especially, was so
unwell that he could not keep on his horse.
A rude kind of litter was, therefore, prepared
for him, consisting of two long poles, fixed,
one on each side of two horses, with a matting
between them, on which he reclined at full
length, and was protected from the sun by a
canopy of boughs.
On the evening of the 23d (July) they en-
camped on the banks of what they term Big
River ; and here we cannot but pause to lament
the stupid, commonplace, and often ribald
names entailed upon the rivers and other
features of the great West, by traders and
settlers. As the aboriginal tribes of these
magnificent regions are yet in existence, the
Indian names might easily be recovered ;
which, beside being in general more sonorous
and musical, would remain mementoes of the
primitive lords of the soil, of whom in a little
while scarce any traces will be left. Indeed,
it is to be wished that the whole of our country
Gamp ot Cbcgenne IFnOtans 323
•could be rescued, as much as possible, from the
wretched nomenclature inflicted upon it, by
ignorant and vulgar minds ; and this might
be done, in a great degree, by restoring the
Indian names, wherever significant and eupho-
nious. As there appears to be a spirit of
research abroad in respect to our aboriginal
antiquities, we would suggest, as a worthy
object of enterprise, a map, or maps, of every
part of our country, giving the Indian names
wherever they could be ascertained. Whoever
achieves such an object worthily, will leave a
monument to his own reputation.
To return from this digression. As the
travellers were now in a country abounding
with buffalo, they remained for several days
encamped upon the banks of Big River, to
obtain a supply of provisions, and to give the
invalids time to recruit.
On the second day of their sojourn, as Ben
Jones, John Day, and others of the hunters
were in pursuit of game, they came upon an
Indian camp on the open prairie, near to a
small stream which ran through a ravine.
The tents or lodges were of dressed buffalo
skins, sewn together and stretched on tapering
pine poles, joined at top, but radiating at bot-
tom, so as to form a circle capable of admitting
fifty persons. Numbers of horses were grazing
324 Sstoria
in the neighborhood of the camp, or straying
at large in the prairie ; a sight most acceptable
to the hunters. After reconnoitring the camp
for some time, they ascertained it to belong to
a band of Cheyenne Indians, the same that
had sent a deputation to the Arickaras. They
received the hunters in the most friendly man-
ner ; invited them to their lodges, which were
more cleanly than Indian lodges are prone to
be, and set food before them with true uncivil-
ized hospitality. Several of them accompanied
the hunters back to the camp, when a trade
was immediately opened. The Cheyennes were
astonished and delighted to find a convoy of
goods and trinkets thus brought into the very-
heart of the prairie ; while Mr. Hunt and his
companions were overjoyed to have an oppor-
tunity of obtaining a further supply of horses
from these equestrian savages.
During a fortnight that the travellers lin-
gered at this place, their encampment was con-
tinually thronged by the Cheyennes. They
were a civil, well-behaved people, cleanly in
their persons and decorous in their habits. The
men were tall, straight, and vigorous, with
aquiline noses and high cheek bones. Some
were almost as naked as ancient statues, and
might have stood as models for a statuary ;
others had leggings and moccasins of deer-skin,
fn&ian f>or0e0 3*5
and buffalo robes, which they threw gracefully
over their shoulders. In a little while, how-
ever, they began to appear in more gorgeous
array, tricked out in the finery obtained from
the white men ; bright cloths, brass rings,
beads of various colors ; and happy was he
who could render himself hideous with ver-
milion.
The travellers had frequent occasion to ad-
mire the skill and grace with which these In-
dians managed their horses. Some of them
made a striking display when mounted, them-
selves and their steeds decorated in gala style ;
for the Indians often bestow more finery upon
their horses than upon themselves. Some
would hang around the necks, or rather on the
breasts of their horses, the most precious orna-
ments they had obtained from the white men ;
others interwove feathers in their manes and
tails. The Indian horses, too, appear to have
an attachment to their wild riders ; and indeed
it is said that the horses of the prairies readily
distinguish an Indian from a white man by
the smell, and give a preference to the former.
Yet the Indians, in general, are hard riders,
and, however they may value their horses, treat
them with great roughness and neglect. Oc-
casionally the Cheyennes joined the white
hunters in pursuit of the elk and buffalo ; and
326 Bstorta
when in the ardor of the chase, spared neither
themselves nor their steeds, scouring the prai-
ries at full speed, and plunging down precipices
and frightful ravines that threatened the necks
of both horse and horseman. The Indian
steed, well trained to the chase, seems as mad
as the rider, and pursues the game as eagerly
as if it were its natural prey, on the flesh of
which he was to banquet.
The history of the Cheyennes is that of many
of those wandering tribes of the prairies. They
were the remnant of a once powerful people
called the Shaways, inhabiting a branch of the
Red River which flows into Lake Winnipeg.
Every Indian tribe has some rival tribe with
which it wages implacable hostility. The
deadly enemies of the Shaways were the Sioux,
who, after a long course of warfare, proved too
powerful for them, and drove them across the
Missouri. They again took root near the
Warricanne Creek, and established themselves
there in a fortified village.
The Sioux still followed them with deadly
animosity ; dislodged them from their village,
and compelled them to take refuge in the Black
Hills, near the upper waters of the Sheyenne
or Cheyenne River. Here they lost even their
name, and became known among the French
colonists by that of the river they frequented.
fbfstorical anecdotes 327
The heart of the tribe was now broken ; its
numbers were greatly thinned by their harass-
ing wars. They no longer attempted to es-
tablish themselves in any permanent abode
that might be an object of attack to their cruel
foes. They gave up the cultivation of the
fruits of the earth, and became a wandering
tribe, subsisting by the chase, and following
the buffalo in its migrations.
Their only possessions were horses, which
they caught on the prairies, or reared, or cap-
tured on predatory incursions into the Mexican
territories, as has already been mentioned.
With some of these they repaired once a year
to the Arickara villages, exchanged them for
corn, beans, pumpkins, and articles of Euro-
pean merchandise, and then returned into the
heart of the prairies.
Such are the fluctuating fortunes of these
savage nations. War, famine, pestilence, to-
gether or singly, bring down their strength
and thin their numbers. Whole tribes are
rooted up from their native places, wander
for a time about these immense regions, be-
come amalgamated with other tribes, or disap-
pear from the face of the earth. There appears
to be a tendency to extinction among all the
savage nations ; and this tendency would seem
to have been in operation among the aborigi-
328 Bstoria
nals of this country long before the advent of
the white men, if we may judge from the traces
and traditions of ancient populousness in re-
gions which were silent and deserted at the
time of the discovery ; and from the mysteri-
ous and perplexing vestiges of unknown races,
predecessors of those found in actual possession,
and who must long since have become gradually
extinguished or been destroyed. The whole
history of the aboriginal population of this
country, however, is an enigma, and a grand
one — Will it ever be solved ?
Cbapter £f flit)
New Distribution of Horses — Rose, the Interpreter —
His Perfidious Character — Anecdotes of the Crow
Indians— A Desperado of the Frontier.
ON the sixth of August the travellers
bade farewell to the friendly band of
Cheyennes, and resumed their jour-
ney. As they had obtained thirty-six
additional horses by their recent traffic, Mr.
Hunt made a new arrangement. The baggage
was made up in smaller loads. A horse was
allotted to each of the six prime hunters, and
others were distributed among the voyageurs,
a horse for every two, so that they could ride
and walk alternately. Mr. Crooks being still
too feeble to mount the saddle, was carried on
a litter.
Their march this day lay among singular
hills and knolls of an indurated red earth,
resembling brick, about the bases of which
were scattered pumice stones and cinders, the
329
330 Bstoria
whole bearing traces of the action of fire. In
the evening they encamped on a branch of
Big River.
They were now out of the tract of country
infested by the Sioux, and had advanced such
a distance into the interior that Mr. Hunt no
longer felt apprehensive of the desertion of
any of his men. He was doomed, however,
to experience new cause of anxiety. As he
was seated in his tent after nightfall, one of
the men came to him privately, and informed
him that there was mischief brewing in the
camp. Edward Rose, the interpreter, whose
sinister looks we have already mentioned, was
denounced by this secret informer as a design-
ing, treacherous scoundrel, who was tamper-
ing with the fidelity of certain of the men,
and instigating them to a flagrant piece of
treason. In the course of a few days they
would arrive at the mountainous district in-
fested by the Upsarokas or Crows, the tribe
among which Rose was to officiate as interpre-
ter. His plan was that several of the men
should join with him, when in that neighbor-
hood, in carrying off a number of horses with
their packages of goods, and deserting to those
savages. He assured them of good treatment
among the Crows, the principal chiefs and
warriors of whom he knew ; they would soon
of tbe Crows 331
become great men among them, and have the
finest women, and the daughters of the chiefs
for wives ; and the horses and goods they
carried off would make them rich for life.
The intelligence of this treachery on the
part of Rose gave much disquiet to Mr. Hunt,
for he knew not how far it might be effective
among his men. He had already had proofs
that several of them were disaffected to the
enterprise, and loath to cross the mountains.
He knew also that savage life had charms for
many of them, especially the Canadians, who
were prone to intermarry and domesticate
themselves among the Indians.
And here a word or two concerning the
Crows may be of service to the reader, as they
will figure occasionally in the succeeding nar-
ration.
The tribe consists of four bands, which
have their nestling-places in fertile, well-wooded
valleys, lying among the Rocky Mountains^
and watered by the Big Horse River and its
tributary streams ; but, though these are
properly their homes, where they shelter their
old people, their wives, and their children, the
men of the tribe are almost continually on the
foray and the scamper. They are, in fact,
notorious marauders and horse-stealers ; cross-
ing and recrossing the mountains, robbing on
332 Bstorfa
the one side, and conveying their spoils to the
other. Hence, we are told, is derived their
name, given to them on account of their unset-
tled and predatory habits ; winging their flight
like the crows, from one side of the mountains
to the other, and making free booty of every-
thing that lies in their way. Horses, however,
are the especial objects of their depredations,
and their skill and audacity in stealing them
are said to be astonishing. This is their glory
and delight ; an accomplished horse-stealer fills
up their idea of a hero. Many horses are
obtained by them, also, in barter from tribes in
and beyond the mountains. They have an
absolute passion for this roble animal ; beside
which he is with them an important object of
traffic. Once a year they make a visit to the
Mandans, Minatarees, and other tribes of the
Missouri, taking with them droves of horses
which they exchanged for guns, ammunition,
trinkets, vermilion, cloths of bright colors,
and various other articles of European manu-
facture. With these the}' supply their own
wants and caprices, and carry on the internal
trade for horses already mentioned.
The plot of Rose to rob and abandon his
countrymen when in the heart of the wilder-
ness, and to throw himself into the hands of
a horde of savages, may appear strange and
B Besperafco of tbe jf rentier 333
improbable to those unacquainted with the
singular and anomalous characters that are
to be found about the borders. This fellow,
it appears, was one of those desperadoes of the
frontiers, outlawed by their crimes, who com-
bine the vices of civilized and savage life, and
are ten times more barbarous than the Indians
with whom they consort. Rose had formerly
belonged to one of the gangs of pirates who
infested the islands of the Mississippi, plun-
dering boats as they went , up and down the
river, and who sometimes shifted the scene of
their robberies to the shore, waylaying travel-
lers as they returned by land from New Or-
leans with the proceeds of their downward
voyage, plundering them of their money and
effects, and often perpetrating the most atro-
cious murders.
These hordes of villains being broken up and
dispersed, Rose had betaken himself to the
wilderness, and associated himself with the
Crows, whose predatory habits were congenial
with his own, had married a woman of the
tribe, and, in short, had identified himself with
those vagrant savages.
Such was the worthy guide and interpreter,
Edward Rose. We give his story, however,
not as it was known to Mr. Hunt and his com-
panions at the time, but as it has been subse-
334
Bstoria
quently ascertained. Enough was known of
the fellow and his dark and perfidious charac-
ter to put Mr. Hunt upon his guard ; still, as
there was no knowing how far his plans might
have succeeded, and as any rash act might
blow the mere smouldering sparks of treason
into a sudden blaze, it was thought advisable
by those with whom Mr. Hunt consulted, to
conceal all knowledge or suspicion of the medi-
tated treachery, but to keep up a vigilant watch
upon the movements of Rose, and a strict guard
upon the horses at night.
Gbapter f f ID.
Substitute for Fuel on the Prairies — Three Hunters
Missing — Signal Fires and Smokes — New Arrange-
ment with Rose — Return of the Wanderers.
THE plains over which the travellers were
journeying continued to be destitute of
trees or even shrubs ; insomuch that
they had to use the dung of the buffalo
for fuel, as the Arabs of the desert use that of
the camel. This substitute for fuel is universal
among the Indians of these upper prairies, and
is said to make a fire equal to that of turf. If
a few chips are added, it throws out a cheerful
and kindly blaze.
These plains, however, had not always been
equally destitute of wood, as was evident from
the trunks of the trees which the travellers re-
peatedly met with, some still standing, others
lying about in broken fragments, but all in a
fossil state, having flourished in times long
past. In these singular remains, the original
335
336 Sstoria
grain of the wood was still so distinct that
they could be ascertained to be the ruins of
oak trees. Several pieces of the fossil wood
were selected by the men to serve as whet-
stones.
In this part of the journey there was no lack
of provisions, for the prairies were covered
with immense herds of buffalo. These, in
general, are animals of peaceful demeanor,
grazing quietly like domestic cattle ; but this
was the season when they are in heat, and
when the bulls are usually fierce and pugna-
cious. There was accordingly a universal rest-
lessness and commotion throughout the plain ;
and the amorous herds gave utterance to their
feelings in low bellowings that resounded like
distant thunder. Here and there fierce duellos
took place between rival enamorados ; but-
ting their huge shagged fronts together, gor-
ing each other with their short black horns,
and tearing up the earth with their feet in
perfect fury.
In one of the evening halts, Pierre Dorion,
the interpreter, together with Carson and Gard-
pie, two of the hunters, were missing ; nor had
they returned by morning. As it was sup-
posed the}' had wandered away in pursuit of
buffalo, and would readily find the track of the
party, no solicitude was felt on their account.
Signal # ires 337
A. fire was left burning, to guide them by its
column of smoke, and the travellers proceeded
on their march. In the evening a signal fire
was made on a hill adjacent to the camp, and
in the morning it was replenished with fuel so
as to last throughout the day. These signals
are usual among the Indians, to give warnings
to each other, or to call home straggling hunt-
ers ; and such is the transparency of the atmos-
phere in those elevated plains, that a slight
column of smoke can be discerned from a great
distance, particularly in the evenings. Two
or three days elapsed, however, without the
reappearance of the three hunters ; and Mr.
Hunt slackened his march to give them time
to overtake him.
A vigilant watch continued to be kept upon
the movements of Rose, and of such of the men
as were considered doubtful in their loyalty ;
but nothing occurred to excite immediate ap-
prehensions. Rose evidently was not a favor-
ite among his comrades, and it was hoped that
he had not been able to make any real parti-
sans.
On the loth of August they encamped among
hills, on the highest peak of which Mr. Hunt
caused a huge pyre of pine wood to *be made,
which soon sent up a great column of flame
that might be seen far and wide over the prai-
VOL. I.— *a
338 Bstoria
ries. This fire blazed all night, and was amply
replenished at daybreak ; so that the towering
pillar of smoke could not but be descried by
the wanderers if within the distance of a day's
journey.
It is a common occurrence in these regions,
where the features of the country so much re-
semble each other, for hunters to lose them-
selves and wander for many days, before they
can find their way back to the main body of
their party. In the present instance, however,
a more than common solicitude was felt, in
consequence of the distrust awakened by the
sinister designs of Rose.
The route now became excessively toilsome,
over a ridge of steep rocky hills, covered with
loose stones. These were intersected by deep
valleys, formed by two branches of Big River,
coming from the south of west, both of which
they crossed. These streams were bordered
by meadows, well stocked with buffaloes.
Loads of meat were brought in by the hunt-
ers ; but the travellers were rendered dainty
by profusion, and would cook only the choice
pieces.
They had now travelled for several days at
a very slow rate, and had made signal-fires
and left traces of their route at every stage, yet
nothing was heard or seen of the lost men. It
Bribe to be fjonest 339
began to be feared that they might have fallen
into the hands of some lurking band of sav-
ages. A party numerous as that of Mr. Hunt,
with a long train of pack-horses, moving across
open plains or naked hills, is discoverable at a
great distance by Indian scouts, who spread
the intelligence rapidly to various points, and
assemble their friends to hang about the skirts
of the travellers, steal their horses, or cut off
any stragglers from the main body.
Mr. Hunt and his companions were more
and more sensible how much it would be in
the power of this sullen and daring vagabond
Rose to do them mischief, when they should
become entangled in the denies of the moun-
tains, with the passes of which they were
wholly unacquainted, and which were infested
by his freebooting friends, the Crows. There,
should he succeed in seducing some of the
party into his plans, he might carry off the
best horses and effects, throw himself among
his savage allies, and set all pursuit at defiance.
Mr. Hunt resolved, therefore, to frustrate the
knave, divert him, by management, from his
plans, and make it sufficiently advantageous
for him to remain honest. He took occasion,
accordingly, in the course of conversation, to
inform Rose that, having engaged him chiefly
as a guide and interpreter through the country
340 Bstorfa
of the Crows, they would not stand in need of
his services beyond. Knowing, therefore, his
connection by marriage with that tribe, and
his predilection for a residence among them,
they would put no restraint upon his will, but,
whenever they met with a party of that people,
would leave him at liberty to remain among
his adopted brethren. Furthermore, that, in
thus parting with him, they wTould pay him
half a year's wages in consideration of his past
services, and would give him a horse, three
beaver traps, and sundry other articles calcu-
lated to set him up in the world.
This unexpected liberality, which made it
nearly as profitable and infinitely less hazard-
ous for Rose to remain honest than to play the
rogue, completely disarmed him. From that
time his whole deportment underwent a
change. His brow cleared up and appeared
more cheerful ; he left off his sullen, skulking
habits, and made no further attempts to tamper
with the faith of his comrades.
On the 1 3th of August Mr. Hunt varied his
course, and inclined westward, in hopes of
falling in with the three lost hunters ; who, it
was now thought, might have kept to the
right hand of Big River. This course soon
brought him to a fork of the L,ittle Missouri,
about a hundred yards wide, and resembling
Gbe 5Lo0t dfcen ffounfc 341
the great river of the same name in the strength
of its current, its turbid water, and the fre-
quency of driftwood and sunken trees.
Rugged mountains appeared ahead, crowd-
ing down to the water edge, and offering a
barrier to further progress on the side they
were ascending. Crossing the river, therefore,
they encamped on its northwest bank, where
they found good pasturage and buffalo in
abundance. The weather was overcast and
rainy, and a general gloom pervaded the camp ;
the voyageurs sat smoking in groups, with
their shoulders as high as their heads, croak-
ing their foreboding, when suddenly towards
evening a shout of joy gave notice that the
lost men were found. They came slowly lag-
ging into the camp, with weary looks, and
horses jaded and wayworn. They had, in fact,
been for several days incessantly on the move.
In their hunting excursion on the prairies they
had pushed so far in pursuit of buffalo, as to
find it impossible to retrace their steps over
plains trampled by innumerable herds ; and
were baffled by the monotony of the landscape
in their attempts to recall landmarks. They
had ridden to and fro until they had almost
lost the points of the compass, and become
totally bewildered ; nor did they ever perceive
any of the signal fires and columns of smoke
342 Sstorta
made by their comrades. At length, about
two days previously, when almost spent by
anxiety and hard riding, they came, to their
great joy, upon the "trail" of the party,
which they had since followed up steadily.
Those only, who have experienced the warm
cordiality that grows up between comrades in
wild and adventurous expeditions of the kind,
can picture to themselves the hearty cheering
with which the stragglers were welcomed to
the camp. Every one crowded round them to
ask questions, and to hear the story of their
mishaps ; and even the squaw of the moody
half-breed, Pierre Dorion, forgot the sternness
of his domestic rule, and the conjugal disci-
pline of the cudgel, in her joy at his safe
return.
Cbapter f £ W.
The Black Mountains — Haunts of Predatory Indians
—Secret Mines— Hidden Treasures— Black-Tailed
Deer — The Bighorn or Ahsahta — Plain with Herds
of Buffalo — Distant Peaks of the Rocky Mountains
— Adventures of William Cannon and John Day
with Grizzly Bears.
M
R. HUNT and his party were now on
the skirts of the Black Hills, or
Black Mountains, as they are some-
times called ; an extensive chain, ly-
ing about a hundred miles east of the Rocky
Mountains, and stretching in a northeast direc-
tion from the south fork of the Nebraska, or
Platte River, to the great north bend of the
Missouri. The Sierra or ridge of the Black
Hills, in fact, forms the dividing line between
the waters of the Missouri and those of the
Arkansas and the Mississippi, and gives rise to
the Cheyenne, the Little Missouri, and several
tributary streams of the Yellowstone.
343
344 Bstocia
The wild recesses of these hills, like those
of the Rocky Mountains, are retreats and lurk-
ing-places for broken and predatory tribes, and
it was among them that the remnant of the
Cheyenne tribe took refuge, as has been stated,
from their conquering enemies, the Sioux.
The Black Hills are chiefly composed of
sandstone, and in many places are broken into
savage cliffs and precipices, and present the
most singular and fantastic forms ; sometimes
resembling towns and castellated fortresses.
The ignorant inhabitants of plains are prone
to clothe the mountains that bound their hori-
zon with fanciful and superstitious attributes.
Thus the wandering tribes of the prairies, who
often behold clouds gathering round the sum-
mits of these hills, and lightning flashing, and
thunder pealing from them, when all the
neighboring plains are serene and sunny, con-
sider them the abode of the genii or thunder-
spirits who fabricate storms and tempests. On
entering their defiles, therefore, they often
hang offerings on the trees, or place them on
the rocks, to propitiate the invisible "lords of
the mountains," and procure good weather
and successful hunting ; and they attach un-
usual significance to the echoes which haunt
the precipices. This superstition may also
have arisen, in part, from a natural phenome-
Singular fountain jpbenomenon 345
non of a singular nature. In the most calm
and serene weather, and at all times of the
day or night, successive reports are now and
then heard among these mountains, resembling
the discharge of several pieces of artillery.
Similar reports were heard by Messrs. Lewis
and Clarke in the Rocky Mountains, which
they say were attributed by the Indians to the
bursting of the rich mines of silver contained
in the bosom of the mountains.
In fact, these singular explosions have re-
ceived fanciful explanations from learned men,
and have not been satisfactorily accounted for
even by philosophers. They are said to occur
frequently in Brazil. Vasconcelles, a Jesuit
father, describes one which he heard in the
Sierra, or mountain region of Piratininga, and
which he compares to the discharges of a park
of artillery. The Indians told him it was an
explosion of stones. The worthy father had
soon a satisfactory proof of the truth of their
information, for the very place was found where
a rock had burst and exploded from its entrails
a stony mass, like a bomb-shell, and of the
size of a bull's heart. This mass was broken
either in its ejection or its fall, and wonderful
was the internal organization revealed. It had
a shell harder even than iron ; within which
were arranged, like the seeds of a pomegran-
346 Bstorta
ate, jewels of various colors ; some transparent
as crystal ; others of a fine red, and others of
mixed hues. The same phenomenon is said
to occur occasionally in the adjacent province
of Guayra, where stones of the bigness of a
man's hand are exploded, with a loud noise,
from the bosom of the earth, and scatter about
glittering and beautiful fragments that look
like precious gems, but are of no value.
The Indians of the Orellanna, also, tell of
horrible noises heard occasionally in the Para-
guaxo, which they consider the throes and
groans of the mountain, endeavoring to cast
forth the precious stones hidden within its en-
trails. Others have endeavored to account for
these discharges of ' ' mountain artillery ' ' on
humbler principles ; attributing them to the
loud reports made by the disruption and fall
of great masses of rock, reverberated and pro-
longed by the echoes ; others, to the disengage-
ment of hydrogen, produced by subterraneous
beds of coal in a state of ignition. In what-
ever way this singular phenomenon may be
accounted for, the existence of it appears to be
well established. It remains one of the linger-
ing mysteries of nature which throw something
of a supernatural charm over her wild moun-
tain solitudes ; and we doubt whether the
imaginative reader will not rather join with
347
the poor Indian in attributing it to the thun-
der-spirits, or the guardian genii of unseen
treasures, than to any commonplace physical
cause.
Whatever might be the supernatural influ-
ences among these mountains, the travellers
found their physical difficulties hard to cope
with. They made repeated attempts to find a
passage through or over the chain, but were as
often turned back by impassable barriers.
Sometimes a defile seemed to open a practica-
ble path, but it would terminate in some wild
chaos of rocks and cliffs, which it was impos-
sible to climb. The animals of these solitary
regions were different from those they had
been accustomed to. The black-tailed deer
would bound up the ravines on their approach,
and the bighorn would gaze fearlessly down
upon them from some impending precipice, or
skip playfully from rock to rock. These ani-
mals are only to be met with in mountainous
regions. The former is larger than the com-
mon deer, but its flesh is not equally esteemed
by hunters. It has very large ears, and the
tip of the tail is black, from which it derives
its name.
The bighorn is so named from its horns ;
which are of a great size, and twisted like
those of a ram. It is called by some the ar-
348 Bstorfa
gali, by others the ibex, though differing from
both of these animals. The Mandans call it
the ahsahta, a name much better than the
clumsy apellation which it generally bears.
It is of the size of a small elk, or large deer,
and of a dun color, excepting the belly and
round the tail, where it is white. In its habits
it resembles the goat, frequenting the rudest
precipices ; cropping the herbage from their
edges ; and, like the chamois, bounding lightly
and securely among dizzy heights, where the
hunter dares not venture. It is difficult, there-
fore, to get within shot of it. Ben Jones, the
hunter, however, in one of the passes of the
Black Hills, succeeded in bringing down a big-
horn from the verge of a precipice, the flesh of
which was pronounced by the gormands of the
camp to have the flavor of excellent mutton.
Baffled in his attempts to traverse this moun-
tain chain, Mr. Hunt skirted along it to the
southwest, keeping it on the right ; and still
in hopes of finding an opening. At an early
hour one day, he encamped in a narrow valley
on the banks of a beautifully clear but rushy
pool ; surrounded by thickets bearing abun-
dance of wild cherries, currants, and yellow and
purple gooseberries.
While the afternoon's meal was in prepara-
tion, Mr. Hunt and Mr. M'Kenzie ascended
349
to the summit of the nearest hill, from whence,
aided by the purity and transparency of the
evening atmosphere, they commanded a vast
prospect on all sides. Below them extended a
plain, dotted with innumerable herds of buffalo.
Some were lying down among the herbage,
others roaming in their unbounded pastures,
while many were engaged in fierce contests
like those already described, their low bellow-
ings reaching the ear like the hoarse murmurs
of the surf on a distant shore.
Far off in the west they descried a range of
lofty mountains printing the clear horizon,
some of them evidently capped with snow.
These they supposed to be the Bighorn Moun-
tains, so called from the animal of that name,
with which they abound. They are a spur of
the great Rocky chain. The hill from whence
Mr. Hunt had this prospect was, according to
his computation, about two hundred and fifty
miles from the Arickara village.
On returning to the camp, Mr. Hunt found
some uneasiness prevailing among the Cana-
dian voyageurs. In straying among the thick-
ets they had beheld tracks of grizzly bears in
every direction, doubtless attracted thither by
the fruit. To their dismay, they now found
that they had encamped in one of the favorite
resorts of this dreaded animal. The idea
350 Bstorfa
marred all the comfort of the encampment. As
night closed, the surrounding thickets were
peopled with terrors ; insomuch that, according
to Mr. Hunt, they could not help starting at
every little breeze that stirred the bushes.
The grizzly bear is the only really formid-
able quadruped of our continent. He is the
favorite theme of the hunters of the far West,
who describe him as equal in size to a common
cow and of prodigious strength. He makes
battle if assailed, and often, if pressed by
hunger, is the assailant. If wounded, he be-
comes furious and will pursue the hunter.
His speed exceeds that of a man, but is inferior
to that of a horse. In attacking he rears him-
self on his hind legs, and springs the length
of his body. Woe to the horse or rider that
comes within the sweep of his terrific claws,
which are sometimes nine inches in length,
and tear everything before them.
At the time we are treating of, the grizzly bear
was still frequent on the Missouri and in the
lower country ; but, like some of the broken
tribes of the prairie, he has gradually fallen
back before his enemies, and is now chiefly to
be found in the upland regions, in rugged fast-
nesses like those of the Black Hills and the
Rocky Mountains. Here he lurks in caverns,
or holes which he has digged in the sides of
Bfcventure of William Cannon 351
hills, or under the roots and trunks of fallen
trees. Like the common bear, he is fond of
fruits, and mast, and roots, the latter of which
he will dig up with his fore-claws. He is car-
nivorous also, and will even attack and con-
quer the lordly buffalo, dragging his huge
carcass to the neighborhood of his den, that he
may prey upon it at his leisure.
The hunters, both white and red men, con-
sider this the most heroic game. They prefer
to hunt him on horseback, and will venture so
near as sometimes to singe his hair with the
flash of the rifle. The hunter of the grizzly
bear, however, must be an experienced hand,
and know where to aim at a vital part ; for of
all quadrupeds, he is the most difficult to be
killed. He will receive repeated wounds with-
out flinching, and rarely is a shot mortal unless
through the head or heart.
That the dangers apprehended from the
grizzly bear, at this night encampment, were
not imaginary, was proved on the following
morning. Among the hired men of the party
was one William Cannon, who had been a
soldier at one of the frontier posts, and entered
into the employ of Mr. Hunt at Mackinaw.
He was an inexperienced hunter and a poor
shot, for which he was much bantered by his
more adroit comrades. Piqued at their raillery,
352 Bstoria
he had been practising ever since he had joined
the expedition, but without success. In the
course of the present afternoon, he went forth
by himself to take a lesson in venerie, and, to
his great delight, had the good fortune to kill
a buffalo. As he was a considerable distance
from the camp, he cut out the tongue and some
of the choice bits, made them into a parcel,
and slinging them on his shoulders by a strap
passed round his forehead, as the voyageurs
carry packages of goods, set out all glorious
for the camp, anticipating a triumph over his
brother hunters. In passing through a narrow
ravine, he heard a noise behind him, and look-
ing round beheld, to his dismay, a grizzly bear
in full pursuit, apparently attracted by the scent
of the meat. Cannon had heard so much of
the invulnerability of this tremendous animal,
that he never attempted to fire, but, slipping
the strap from his forehead, let go the buffalo
meat and ran for his life. The bear did not
stop to regale himself with the game, but kept
on after the hunter. He had nearly overtaken
him when Cannon reached a tree, and, throw-
ing down his rifle, scrambled up it. The next
instant Bruin was at the foot of the tree ; but,
as this species of bear does not climb, he con-
tented himself with turning the chase into a
blockade. Night came on. In the darkness
and tbe <5d33l£ JBcar 353
Cannon could not perceive whether or not the
enemy maintained his station ; but his fears
pictured him rigorously mounting guard. He
passed the night, therefore, in the tree, a prey
to dismal fancies. In the morning the bear
was gone. Cannon warily descended the tree,
gathered up his gun, and made the best of his
way back to the camp, without venturing to
look after his buffalo meat.
While on this theme we will add another
anecdote of an adventure with a grizzly bear,
told of John Day, the Kentucky ' hunter, but
which happened at a different period of the
expedition. Day was hunting in company
with one of the clerks of the company, a lively
youngster, who was a great favorite with the
veteran, but whose vivacity he had continually
to keep in check. They were in search of deer,
when suddenly a huge grizzly bear emerged
from a thicket about thirty yards distant, rear-
ing himself upon his hind legs with a terrific
growl, and displaying a hideous array of teeth
and claws. The rifle of the young man was
levelled in an instant, but John Day's iron hand
was as quickly upon his arm. " Be quiet,
boy ! be quiet ! ' ' exclaimed the hunter between
his clenched teeth, and without turning his
eyes from the bear. They remained motion-
less. The monster regarded them for a time,
VOL. I — 23
354 Bstorla
then, lowering himself on his fore paws, slowly
withdrew. He had not gone many paces be-
fore he again returned, reared himself on his
hind legs, and repeated his menace. Day's
hand was still on the arm of his young com-
panion ; he again pressed it hard, and kept
repeating between his teeth : ' * Quiet, boy ! —
keep quiet ! — keep quiet ! " — though the latter
had not made a move since his first prohibition.
The bear again lowered himself on all fours,
retreated some twenty yards farther, and again
turned, reared, showed his teeth, and growled.
This third menace was too much for the game
spirit of John Da)'. " By Jove ! " exclaimed
he, "I can stand this no longer," and in an
instant a ball from his rifle whizzed into the
foe. The wound was not mortal ; but, luckily,
it dismayed instead of enraging the animal,
and he retreated into the thicket.
Day's young companion reproached him for
not practising the caution which he enjoined
upon others. " Why, boy," replied the vete-
ran, " caution is caution, but one must not put
up with too much, even from a bear. Would
you have me suffer myself to be bullied all day
by a varmint ?"
Cbaptet £ f IDf fl,
Indian Trail — Rough Mountain Travelling — Suffering
from Hunger and Thirst — Powder River — A Hunt-
er's Paradise — Rocky Mountains — The Great Ameri-
can Desert — Various Characteristics of the Moun-
tains— Indian Superstitions Concerning Them.
FOR the two following days, the travellers
pursued a westerly course for thirty-
four miles along a ridge of country
dividing the tributary waters of the
Missouri and Yellowstone. As landmarks they
guided themselves by the summits of the far
distant mountains, which they supposed to be-
long to the Bighorn chain. They were gradu-
ally rising into a higher temperature, for the
weather was cold for the season, with a sharp
frost in the night, and ice of an eighth of an
inch in thickness.
On the twenty-second of August, early in
the day, they came upon the trail of a numer-
ous band. Rose and the other hunters exam-
355
356 Bstorta
ined the foot-prints with great attention, and
determined it to be the trail of a party of Crows,
returning from an annual trading visit to the
Mandans. As this trail afforded more commo-
dious travelling, they immediately struck into
it, and followed it for two days. It led them
over rough hills, and through broken gullies,
during which time they suffered great fatigue
from the ruggedness of the country. The
weather, too, which had recently been frosty,
was now oppressively warm, and there was a
great scarcity of water, insomuch that a valua-
ble dog belonging to Mr. M'Kenzie died of
thirst.
At one time they had twenty-five miles of
painful travel, without a drop of water, until
they arrived at a small running stream . Here
they eagerly slaked their thirst ; but, this being
allayed, the calls of hunger became equally im-
portunate. Ever since they had got among
these barren and arid hills, where there was a
deficiency of grass, they had met with no buffa-
loes ; those animals keeping in the grassy
meadows near the streams. They were obliged,
therefore, to have recourse to their corn meal,
which they reserved for such emergencies.
Some, however, were lucky enough to kill a
wolf, which they cooked for supper, and pro-
nounced excellent food.
twnter's paraDise 357
The next morning they resumed their way-
faring, hungry and jaded, and had a dogged
march of eighteen miles among the same kind
of hills. At length they emerged upon a
stream of clear water, one of the forks of
Powder River, and to their great joy beheld
once more wide grassy meadows, stocked with
herds of buffalo. For several days they kept
along the banks of the river, ascending it about
eighteen miles. It was a hunter's paradise ;
the buffaloes were in such abundance that they
were enabled to kill as many as they pleased,
and to jerk a sufficient supply of meat for sev-
eral days' journeying. Here, then, they rev-
elled and reposed after their hungry and weary
travel, hunting and feasting, and reclining
upon the grass. Their quiet, however, was a
little marred by coming upon traces of Indians,
who, they concluded, must be Crows ; they
were therefore obliged to keep a more vigilant
watch than ever upon their horses. For sev-
eral days they had been directing their march
towards the lofty mountain descried by Mr.
Hunt and Mr. M'Kenzie on the iyth of Au-
gust, the height of which rendered it a land-
mark over a vast extent of country. At first
it had appeared to them solitary and detached ;
but as they advanced towards it, it proved to
be the principal summit of a chain of mountains.
358 Bstoria
Day by day it varied in form, or rather its
lower peaks, and the summits of others of the
chain emerged above the clear horizon, and
finally the inferior line of hills which connected
most of them rose to view. So far, however, are
objects discernible in the pure atmosphere of
these elevated plains, that from the place where
they first descried the main mountain, they had
to travel a hundred and fifty miles before they
reached its base. Here they encamped, on the
3oth of August, having come nearly four hun-
dred miles since leaving the Arickara village.
The mountain which now towered above
them was one of the Bighorn chain, bordered
by a river of the same name, and extending
a long distance rather east of north and west
of south. It was a part of the great system of
granite mountains which forms one of the
most important and striking features of North
America, stretching parallel to the coast of the
Pacific from the Isthmus of Panama almost to
the Arctic Ocean ; and presenting a correspond-
ing chain to that of the Andes in the southern
hemisphere. This vast range has acquired,
from its rugged and broken character and its
summits of naked granite, the appellation of
the Rocky Mountains, a name by no means
distinctive, as all elevated ranges are rocky.
Among the early explorers it was known as
(Sreat Bmerfcan Desert 359
the range of Chippewyan Mountains, and this
Indian name is the one it is likely to retain in
poetic usage. Rising from the midst of vast
plains and prairies, traversing several degrees
of latitude, dividing the waters of the Atlantic
and the Pacific, and seeming to bind with di-
verging ridges the level regions on its flanks,
it has been figuratively termed the backbone
of the northern continent.
The Rocky Mountains do not present a range
of uniform elevation, but rather groups and
occasionally detached peaks. Though some of
these rise to the region of perpetual snows, and
are upwards of eleven thousand feet in real
altitude, yet their height from their immediate
basis is not so great as might be imagined, as
they swell up from elevated plains, several
thousand feet above the level of the ocean.
These plains are often of a desolate sterility ;
mere sandy wastes, formed of the detritus of
the granite heights, destitute of trees and herb-
age, scorched by the ardent and reflected rays
of the summer's .sun, and in winter swept
by chilling blasts from the snow-clad moun-
tains. Such is a great part of that vast region
extending north and south along the moun-
tains, several hundred miles in width, which
has not improperly been termed the Great
American Desert. It is a region that almost
360 Bstoria
discourages all hope of cultivation, and can
only be traversed with safety by keeping near
the streams which intersect it. Extensive plains
likewise occur among the higher regions of the
mountains, of considerable fertility. Indeed,
these lofty plats of table-land seem to form a
peculiar feature in the American continents.
Some occur among the Cordilleras of the An-
des, where cities, and towns, and cultivated
farms are to be seen eight thousand feet above
the level of the sea.
The Rocky Mountains, as we have already
observed, occur sometimes singly or in groups,
and occasionally in collateral ridges. Between
these are deep valleys, with small streams
winding through them, which find their way
into the lower plains, augmenting as they pro-
ceed, and ultimately discharging themselves
into vast rivers, which traverse the prairies
like great arteries, and drain the continent.
While the granitic summits of the Rocky
Mountains are bleak and bare, many of the
inferior ridges are scantily clothed with
scrubbed pines, oaks, cedar, and furze. Vari-
ous parts of the mountains also bear traces of
volcanic action. Some of the interior valleys
are strewed with scoria and broken stones,
evidently of volcanic origin ; the surrounding
rocks bear the like character, and vestiges of
{Towns of tbc (Senerous Spirits 361
extinguished craters are to be seen on the
elevated heights.
We have already noticed the superstitious
feelings with which the Indians regard the
Black Hills ; but this immense range of moun-
tains, which divides all that they know of the
world, and gives birth to such mighty rivers,
is still more an object of awe and veneration.
They call it " the crest of the world," and
think that Wacondah, or the master of life, as
they designate the Supreme Being, has his resi-
dence among these aerial heights. The tribes
on the eastern prairies call them the moun-
tains of the setting sun. Some of them place
the " happy hunting-ground," their ideal par-
adise, among the recesses of these mountains ;
but say that they are invisible to living men.
Here also is the " L,and of Souls," in which
are the ' ' towns of free and generous spirits, ' '
where those who have pleased the master of
life while living, enjoy after death all manner
of delights.
Wonders are told of these mountains by the
distant tribes, whose warriors or hunters have
ever wandered in their neighborhood. It is
thought by some that, after death, they will
have to travel to these mountains and ascend
one of their highest and most rugged peaks,
among rocks and snows and tumbling tor-
362 Betoria
rents. After many moons of painful toil they
will reach the summit, from whence they will
have a view over the land of souls. There they
will see the happy hunting-grounds, with the
souls of the brave and good living in tents in
green meadows, by bright running streams, or
hunting the herds of buffalo, and elk, and deer,
which have been slain on earth. There, too,
they will see the villages or towns of the free
and generous spirits brightening in the midst
of delicious prairies. If they have acquitted
themselves well while living, they will be per-
mitted to descend and enjoy this happy coun-
try ; if otherwise they will but be tantalized
with this prospect of it, and then hurled back
from the mountain to wander about the sandy
plains, and endure the eternal pangs of unsat-
isfied thirst and hunger.
Cbapter
Region of the Crow Indians — A Crow Camp — Pres-
ents to the Crow Chief — Crow Bullies — Rose
among his Indian Friends — Parting with the
Crows — Esquestrian Children — Search after
Stragglers.
THE travellers had now arrived in the
vicinity of the mountain regions in-
fested by the Crow Indians. These
restless marauders, as has already been
observed, are apt to be continually on the
prowl about the skirts of the mountains ; and
even when encamped in some deep and se-
cluded glen, they keep scouts upon the cliffs
and promontories, who, unseen themselves, can
discern every living thing that moves over the
subjacent plains and valleys. It was not to be
expected that our travellers could pass unseen
through a region thus vigilantly sentinelled ;,
accordingly, in the edge of the evening, not
long after they had encamped at the foot of the
363
364 Bstoria
Bighorn Sierra, a couple of wild-looking be-
ings, scantily clad in skins, but well armed,
and mounted on horses as wild-looking as
themselves, were seen approaching with great
caution from among the rocks. They might
have been mistaken for two of the evils spirits
of the mountains so formidable in Indian fable.
Rose was immediately sent out to hold a
parley with them, and invite them to the camp.
They proved to be two scouts from the same
band that had been tracked for some days past,
and which was now encamped at some dis-
tance in the folds of the mountain. They
were easily prevailed upon to come to the
camp, where they were well received, and,
after remaining there until late in the evening,
departed to make a report of all they had seen
and experienced to their companions.
The following day had scarce dawned,
when a troop of these wild mountain scamper-
ers came galloping with whoops and yells into
the camp, bringing an invitation from their
chief for the white men to visit him. The
tents were accordingly struck, the horses
laden, and the party were soon on the march.
The Crow horsemen, as they escorted them,
appeared to take pride in showing off their
equestrian skill and hardihood ; careering at
full speed on their half-savage steeds, and
Crow "fcorsemansbtp 365
dashing among rocks and crags, and up and
down the most rugged and dangerous places
with perfect ease and unconcern.
A ride of sixteen miles brought them, in the
afternoon, in sight of the Crow camp. It was
composed of leathern tents, pitched in a meadow
on the border of a small clear stream at the foot
of the mountain. A great number of horses
were grazing in the vicinity, many of them
doubtless captured in marauding excursions.
The Crow chieftain came forth to meet his
guests with great professions of friendship,
and conducted them to his tents, pointing out,
by the way, a convenient place where they
might fix their camp. No sooner had they
done so, than Mr. Hunt opened some of the
packages and made the chief a present of a
scarlet blanket and a quantity of powder and
ball ; he gave him also some knives, trinkets,
and tobacco to be distributed among his war-
riors, with all which the grim potentate seemed,
for the time, well pleased. As the Crows,
however, were reputed to be perfidious in the
extreme, and as errant freebooters as the bird
after which they were so worthily named ;
and as their general feelings towards the
whites were known to be by no means friendly,
the intercourse with them was conducted with
great circumspection.
366 Bstoria
The following day was passed in trading
with the Crows for buffalo robes and skins,
and in bartering galled and jaded horses for
others that were in good condition. Some of
the men, also, purchased horses on their own
account, so that the number now amounted to
one hundred and twenty-one, most of them
sound and active, and fit for mountain service.
Their wants being supplied, they ceased all
further traffic, much to the dissatisfaction of
the Crows, who became extremely urgent to
continue the trade, and, finding their impor-
tunities of no avail, assumed an insolent and
menacing tone. All this was attributed by
Mr. Hunt and his associates to the perfidious
instigations of Rose, the interpreter, whom they
suspected of the desire to foment ill-will be-
tween them and the savages, for the promotion
of his nefarious plans. M'L,ellan, with his
usual tranchant mode of dealing out justice,
resolved to shoot the desperado on the spot in
case of any outbreak. Nothing of the kind,
however, occurred. The Crows were probably
daunted by the resolute, though quiet de-
meanor of the white men, and the constant
vigilance and armed preparations which they
maintained ; and Rose, if he really still har-
bored his knavish designs, must have per-
ceived that they were suspected, and, if at-
parting wftb tbe Crows 367
tempted to be carried into effect, might bring
ruin on his own head.
The next morning, bright and early, Mr.
Hunt proposed to resume his journeying. He
took a ceremonious leave of the Crow chieftain,
and his vagabond warriors, and according to
previous arrangements, consigned to their
cherishing friendship and fraternal adoption
their worthy confederate Rose, who, having
figured among the water pirates of the Missis-
sippi, was well fitted to rise to distinction
among the land pirates of the Rocky Moun-
tains.
It is proper to add, that the ruffian was well
received among the tribe, and appeared to be
perfectly satisfied with the compromise he had
made ; feeling much more at his ease among
savages than among white men. It is outcasts
from civilization, fugitives from justice, and
heartless desperadoes of this kind who sow the
seeds of enmity and bitterness among the un-
fortunate tribes of the frontier. There is no
enemy so implacable against a country or a
community as one of its own people who has
rendered himself an alien by his crimes.
Right glad to be delivered from this treacher-
ous companion, Mr. Hunt pursued his course
along the skirts of the mountain, in a southern
direction, seeking for some practicable defile
368 Bgtoria
by which he might pass through it ; none such
presented, however, in the course of fifteen
miles, and he encamped on a small stream, still
on the outskirts. The green meadows which
border these mountain streams are generally
well stocked with game, and the hunters killed
several fat elks, which supplied the camp with
fresh meat. In the evening the travellers were
surprised by an unwelcome visit from several
Crows belonging to a different band from that
which they recently left, and who said their
camp was among the mountains. The con-
sciousness of being environed by such danger-
ous neighbors, and of being still within the
range of Rose and his fellow ruffians, obliged
the party to be continually on the alert, and to
maintain weary vigils throughout the night,
lest they should be robbed of their horses.
On the 3d of September, finding that the
mountain still stretched onwards, presenting a
continued barrier, they endeavored to force a
passage to the westward, but soon became en-
tangled among rocks and precipices which set
all their efforts at defiance. The mountain
seemed, for the most part, rugged, bare, and
sterile ; yet here and there it was clothed with
pines, and with shrubs and flowering plants,
some of which were in bloom. In toiling
among these weary places, their thirst became
"{Unwelcome Visitors 369
excessive, for no water was to be met with.
Numbers of the men wandered off into rocky
dells and ravines in hopes of finding some
brook or fountain ; some of whom lost their
way and did not rejoin the main party.
After a day of painful and fruitless scram-
bling, Mr. Hunt gave up the attempt to pene-
trate in this direction, and, returning to the
little stream on the skirts of the mountain,
pitched his tents within six miles of his en-
campment of the preceding night. He now
ordered that signals should be made for the
stragglers in quest of water ; but the night
passed away without their return.
The next morning, to their surprise, Rose
made his appearance at the camp, accompanied
by some of his Crow associates. His unwel-
come visit revived their suspicions ; but he
announced himself as a messenger of good- will
from the chief, who, finding they had taken
the wrong road, had sent Rose and his com-
panions to guide them to a nearer and better
one across the mountain.
Having no choice, being themselves utterly
at fault, they set out under this questionable
escort. They had not gone far before they
fell in with the whole party of Crows, who,
they now found, were going the same road
with themselves. The two cavalcades of white
VOL. I.— 34
370 Sstoria
and red men, therefore, pushed on together,
and presented a wild and picturesque spectacle,
as, equipped with various weapons and in vari-
ous garbs, with trains of pack-horses, they
wound in long lines through the rugged de-
files, and up and down the crags and steeps of
the mountain.
The travellers had again an opportunity to
see and admire the equestrian habitudes and
address of this hard-riding tribe. They were
all mounted, man, woman, and child, for the
Crows have horses in abundance, so that no
one goes on foot. The children are perfect
imps on horseback. Among them was one so
young that he could not yet speak. He was
tied on a colt of two years old, but managed
the reins as if by instinct, and plied the whip
with true Indian prodigality. Mr. Hunt in-
quired the age of this infant jockey, and was
answered that " he had seen two winters."
This is almost realizing the fable of the cen-
taurs ; nor can we wonder at the equestrian
adroitness of these savages, who are thus in
a manner cradled in the saddle, and become
in infancy almost identified with the animal
they bestride.
The mountain defiles were exceedingly
rough and broken, and the travelling painful
to the burdened horses. The party, therefore,
IReturn of tbe Stragglers 371
proceeded but slowly, and were gradually left
behind by the band of Crows, who had taken
the lead. It is more than probable that Mr.
Hunt loitered in his course, to get rid of such
doubtful fellow-travellers. Certain it is that
he felt a sensation of relief as he saw the
whole crew, the renegade Rose and all, disap-
pear among the windings of the mountain,
and heard the last yelp of the savages die
away in the distance.
When they were fairly out of sight, and out
of hearing, he encamped on the head-waters
of the little stream of the preceding day, hav-
ing come about sixteen miles. Here he re-
mained all the succeeding day, as well to give
time for the Crows to get in advance, as for
the stragglers, who had wandered away in
quest of water two days previously, to rejoin
the camp. Indeed, considerable uneasiness
began to be felt concerning these men, lest
they should become utterly bewildered in the
defiles of the mountains, or should fall into
the hands of some marauding band of savages.
Some of the most experienced hunters were
sent in search of them ; others, in the mean-
time, employed themselves in hunting. The
narrow valley in which they encamped being
watered by a running stream, yielded fresh
pasturage, and though in the heart of the
372
Bstocia
Bighorn Mountains, was well stocked with
buffalo. Several of these were killed, as also
a grizzly bear. In the evening, to the satis-
faction of all parties, the stragglers made their
appearance, and provisions being in abundance,
there was hearty good cheer in the camp.
Cbaptet £ f 1Ff .
Mountain Glens — Anecdotes of Shoshonies and Flat-
heads — Root Diggers — Wind River — Scarcity of
Food — The Pilot Knobs or Tetons — Branch of the
Colorado — Hunting Camp.
RESUMING their course on the following
morning, Mr. Hunt and his companions
continued on westward through a rug-
ged region of hills and rocks, but di-
versified in many places by grassy little glens,
with springs of water, bright sparkling brooks,
clumps of pine trees, and a profusion of
flowering plants, which were in bloom, al-
though the weather was frosty. These beau-
tiful and verdant recesses, running through and
softening the rugged mountains, were cheering
and refreshing to the way-worn travellers.
In the course of the morning, as they were
entangled in a defile, they beheld a small band
of savages, as wild-looking as the surrounding
scenery, who reconnoitred them warily from
373
374 Bstoria
the rocks before they ventured to advance.
Some of them were mounted on horses rudely
caparisoned with bridles or halters of buffalo
hide, one end trailing after them on the ground.
They proved to be a mixed party of Flatheads
and Shoshonies, or Snakes ; and as these tribes
will be frequently mentioned in the course of
this work, we shall give a few introductory
particulars concerning them.
The Flatheads in question are not to be
confounded with those of the name who dwell
about the lower waters of the Columbia ;
neither do they flatten their heads, as the
others do. They inhabit the banks of a river
on the west side of the mountains, and are
described as simple, honest, and hospitable.
I^ike all people of similar character, whether
civilized or savage, they are prone to be im-
posed upon ; and are especially maltreated by
the ruthless Blackfeet, who harass them in
their villages, steal their horses by night, or
openly carry them off in the face of day,
without provoking pursuit or retaliation.
The Shoshonies are a branch of the once
powerful and prosperous tribe of the Snakes,
who possessed a glorious hunting country about
the upper forks of the Missouri, abounding in
beaver and buffalo. Their hunting ground
was occasionally invaded by the Blackfeet, but
Cbe Sbosbonies and Sbucfcerg 375
the Snakes battled bravely for their domains,
and a long and bloody feud existed, with vari-
able success. At length the Hudson's Bay
Company, extending their trade into the in-
terior, had dealings with the Blackfeet, who
were nearest to them, and supplied them with
fire-arms. The Snakes, who occasionally
traded with the Spaniards, endeavored, but in
vain, to obtain similar weapons ; the Spanish
traders wisely refused to arm them so for-
midably. The Blackfeet had now a vast advan-
tage, and soon dispossessed the poor Snakes
of their favorite hunting grounds, their land
of plenty, and drove them from place to place,
until they were fain to take refuge in the wild-
est and most desolate recesses of the Rocky
Mountains. Kven here they are subject to
occasional visits from their implacable foes, as
long as they have horses, or any other property
to tempt the plunderer. Thus, by degrees,
the Snakes have become a scattered, broken-
spirited, impoverished people ; keeping about
lonely rivers and mountain streams, and sub-
sisting chiefly upon fish. Such of them as
still possess horses, and occasionally figure as
hunters, are called Shoshonies ; but there is
another class, the most abject and forlorn, who
are called Shuckers, or more commonly Dig-
gers and Root Eaters. These are a shy, secret,
376 Bstoria
solitary race, who keep in the most retired
parts of the mountains, lurking like gnomes
in caverns and clefts of the rocks, and subsist-
ing in a great measure on the roots of the earth.
Sometimes, in passing through a solitary moun-
tain valley, the traveller comes perchance upon
the bleeding carcass of a deer or buffalo that
has just been slain. He looks round in vain
for the hunter ; the whole landscape is lifeless
and deserted ; at length he perceives a thread
of smoke, curling up from among the crags
and cliffs, and scrambling to the place, finds
some forlorn and skulking brood of Diggers,
terrified at being discovered.
The Shoshonies, however, who, as has been
observed, have still ' ' horse to ride and weapon
to wear," are somewhat bolder in their spirit,
and more open and wide in their wanderings.
In the autumn, when salmon disappear from
the rivers, and hunger begins to pinch, they
even venture down in their ancient hunting
grounds, to make a foray among the buffaloes.
In this perilous enterprise they are occasionally
joined by the Flatheads, the persecutions of
the Blackfeet having produced a close alliance
and co-operation between these luckless and
maltreated tribes. Still, notwithstanding their
united force, every step they take within the
debatable ground is taken in fear and trem-
Bread ot tbc JSIacftfcet 377
bling, and with the utmost precaution ; and an
Indian trader assures us that he has seen at
least five hundred of them, armed and equipped
for action, and keeping watch upon the hill-
tops, while about fifty were hunting in the
prairie. Their excursions are brief and hur-
ried ; as soon as they have collected and jerked
sufficient buffalo meat for winter provisions,
they pack their horses, abandon the dangerous
hunting grounds, and hasten back to the
mountains, happy if they have not the terrible
Blackfeet rattling after them.
Such a confederate band of Shoshonies and
Flatheads was the one met by our travellers.
It was bound on a visit to the Arrapahoes, a
tribe inhabiting the banks of the Nebraska.
They were armed to the best of their scanty
means, and some of the Shoshonies had buck-
lers of buffalo hide, adorned with feathers and
leathern fringes, and which have a charmed
virtue in their eyes, from having been prepared,
with mystic ceremonies, by their conjurers.
In company with this wandering band our
travellers proceeded all day. In the evening
they encamped near to each other in a defile
of the mountains, on the borders of a stream
running north, and falling into Bighorn River,
In the vicinity of the camp, they found goose-
berries, strawberries, and currants, in great
378 Bstorfa
abundance. The defile bore traces of having
been a throughfare for countless herds of buf-
faloes, though not one was to be seen. The
hunters succeeded in killing an elk and several
black-tailed deer.
They were now in the bosom of the second
Bighorn ridge, with another lofty and snow-
crowned mountain full in view to the west.
Fifteen miles of western course brought them,
on the following day, down into an intervening
plain, well stocked with buffalo. Here the
Snakes and Flatheads joined with the white
hunters in a successful hunt, that soon filled
the camp with provisions.
On the morning of the gth of September, the
travellers parted company with their Indian
friends, and continued on their course to the
west. A march of thirty miles brought them,
in the evening, to the banks of a rapid and
beautifully clear stream about a hundred yards
wide. It is the north fork or branch of the
Bighorn River, but bears its peculiar name of
the Wind River, from being subject in the
winter seasons to a continued blast which
sweeps its banks and prevents the snow from
lying on them. This blast is said to be caused
by a narrow gap or funnel in the mountains,
through which the river forces its way between
perpendicular precipices, resembling cut rocks.
MinD TRivcr 379
This river gives its name to a whole range
of mountains consisting of three parallel chains,
eighty miles in length, and about twenty or
twenty-five broad. One of its peaks is proba-
bly fifteen thousand feet above the level of the
sea, being one of the highest of the Rocky
Sierra. These mountains give rise, not merely
to the Wind or Bighorn River, but to several
branches of the Yellowstone and the Missouri
on the east, and of the Columbia and Colorado
on the west ; thus dividing the sources of these
mighty streams.
For five succeeding days, Mr. Hunt and his
party continued up the course of the Wind
River, to the distance of about eighty miles,
crossing and recrossing it, according to its
windings, and the nature of its banks ; some-
times passing through valleys, at other times
scrambling over rocks and hills. The country
in general was destitute of trees, but they
passed through groves of worm- wood, eight
and ten feet in height, which they used occa-
sionally for fuel, and they met with large quan-
tities of wild flax.
The mountains were destitute of game ; they
came in sight of two grizzly bears, but could
not get near enough for a shot ; provisions,
therefore, began to be scanty. They saw large
flights of the kind of thrush commonly called
the robin, and many smaller birds of migratory
species ; but the hills in general appeared lonely
and with few signs of animal life. On the
evening of the i4th September, they encamped
on the forks of the Wind or Bighorn River.
The largest of these forks came from the range
of Wind River Mountains.
The hunters, who served as guides to the
party in this part of their route, had assured
Mr. Hunt that, by following up Wind River,
and crossing a single mountain ridge, he would
come upon the head- waters of the Columbia.
This scarcity of game, however, which already
had been felt to a pinching degree, and which
threatened them with famine among the sterile
heights which lay before them, admonished
them to change their course. It was deter-
mined, therefore, to make for a stream, which
they were informed passed the neighboring
mountains, to the south of west, on the grassy
banks of which it was probable they would
meet with buffalo. Accordingly, about three
o'clock on the following day, meeting with a
beaten Indian road which led in the proper
direction, they struck into it, turning their
backs upon Wind River.
In the course of the day, they came to a
height that commanded an almost boundless
prospect. Here one of the guides paused, and,
jf irst Xanfcmarfcs of tbc Columbia 381
after considering the vast landscape attentively,
pointed to three mountain peaks glistening
with snow, which rose, he said, above a fork
of Columbia River. They were hailed by the
travellers with that joy with which a beacon on
a sea-shore is hailed by mariners after a long
and dangerous voyage. It is true there was
many a weary league to be traversed before
they should reach these landmarks, for, allow-
ing for their evident height and the extreme
transparency of the atmosphere, they could
not be much less than a hundred miles distant.
Kven after reaching them, there would yet re-
main hundreds of miles of their journey to be
accomplished. All these matters were forgotten
in the joy at seeing the first landmarks of the
Columbia, that river which formed the bourne
of the expedition. These remarkable peaks
were known as the Tetons ; as guiding points
for many days, to Mr. Hunt, he gave them the
names of the Pilot Knobs.
The travellers continued their course to the
south of west for about forty miles, through a
region so elevated that patches of snow lay on
the highest summits and on the northern de-
clivities. At length they came to the desired
stream, the object of their search, the waters of
which flowed to the west. It was, in fact, a
branch of the Colorado, which falls info the
382 B0toria
Gulf of California, and had received from the
hunters the name of Spanish River, from in-
formation given by the Indians that Spaniards
resided upon its lower waters.
The aspect of this river and its vicinity was
cheering to the way-worn and hungry travellers.
Its banks were green, and there were grassy
valleys running from it in various directions,
into the heart of the rugged mountains, with
herds of buffalo quietly grazing. The hunters
sallied forth with keen alacrity, and soon re-
turned laden with provisions.
In this part of the mountains Mr. Hunt met
with three different kinds of gooseberries. The
common purple, on a low and very thorny
bush ; a yellow kind, of an excellent flavor,
growing on a stock free from thorns ; and a
deep purple, of the size and taste of our winter
grape, with a thorny stalk. There were also
three kinds of currants, one very large and
well tasted, of a purple color, and growing on
a bush eight or nine feet high. Another of a
yellow color, and of the size and taste of the
large red currant, the bush four or five feet
high ; and the third a beautiful scarlet, resem-
bling the strawberry in sweetness, though
rather insipid, and growing on a low bush.
On the i yth they continued down the course
of the river, making fifteen miles to the south-
•fcuntfng anD "Resting 383
west. The river abounded with geese and
ducks, and there were signs of its being in-
habited by beaver and otters ; indeed, they were
now approaching regions where these animals,
the great objects of the fur trade, are said to
abound. They encamped for the night oppo-
site the end of a mountain in the west, which
was probably the last chain of the Rocky
Mountains. On the following morning they
abandoned the main course of the Spanish
River, and taking a northwest direction for
eight miles, came upon one of its little tribu-
taries, issuing out of the bosom of the moun-
tains, and running through green meadows,
yielding pasturage to herds of buffalo. As
these were probably the last of that animal
they would meet with, they encamped on the
grassy banks of the river, determined to spend
several days in hunting, so as to be able to jerk
sufficient meat to supply them until they should
reach the waters of the Columbia, where they
trusted to find fish enough for their support.
A little repose, too, was necessary for both men
and horses, after their rugged and incessant
marching ; having, in the course of the last
seventeen days, traversed two hundred and
sixty miles of rough, and in many parts sterile,
mountain country.
Cbapter
A Plentiful Hunting Camp — Shoshonie Hunters —
Hoback's River — Mad River — Encampment Near
the Pilot Knobs — Preparations for a Perilous Voy-
age.
FIVE days were passed by Mr. Hunt and
his companions in the fresh meadows
watered by the bright little mountain
stream. The hunters made great havoc
among the buffaloes, and brought in quanti-
ties of meat ; the voyageurs busied themselves
about the fires, roasting and stewing for present
purposes, or drying provisions for the journey ;
the pack-horses, eased of their burdens, rolled
on the grass, or grazed at large about the
ample pastures ; those of the party who had
no call upon their services, indulged in the
luxury of perfect relaxation, and the camp
presented a picture of rude feasting and revelry,
of mingled bustle and repose, characteristic of
a halt in a fine hunting country. In the course
B 1RIUID fountain Scene 385
of one of their excursions, some of the men
came in sight of a small party of Indians, who
instantly fled in great apparent consternation.
They immediately returned to camp with the
intelligence, upon which Mr. Hunt and four
others flung themselves upon their horses, and
sallied forth to reconnoitre. After riding for
about eight miles, they came upon a wild
mountain scene . A lonely green valley stretched
before them, surrounded by rugged heights;
A herd of buffalo were careering madly through
it, with a troop of savage horsemen in full
chase, plying them with their bows and arrows.
The appearance of Mr. Hunt and his compan-
ions put an abrupt end to the hunt ; the buffalo
scuttled off in one direction, while the Indians
plied their lashes and galloped off in another,
as fast as their steeds could carry them. Mr.
Hunt gave chase ; there was a sharp scamper,
though of short continuance. Two young In-
dians, who were indifferently mounted, were
soon overtaken. They were terribly frightened,
and evidently gave themselves up for lost.
By degrees their fears were allayed by kind
treatment ; but they continued to regard the
strangers with a mixture of awe and wonder,
for it was the first time in their lives they had
ever seen a white man.
They belonged to a party of Snakes who had
VOL. I. — 25
386 Hstorta
come across the mountains on their autumnal
hunting excursion to provide buffalo meat for
the winter. Being persuaded of the peaceable in-
tentions of Mr. Hunt and his companions, they
willingly conducted them to their camp. It was
pitched in a narrow valley on the margin of a
stream. The tents were of dressed skins, some
of them fantastically painted ; with horses graz-
ing about them. The approach of the party
caused a transient alarm in the camp, for these
poor Indians were ever on the look-out for cruel
foes. No sooner, however, did they recognize
the garb and complexion of their visitors, than
their apprehensions were changed into joy ; for
some of them had dealt with white men, and
knew them to be friendly, and to abound with
articles of singular value. They welcomed them,
therefore, to their tents, set food before them ;
and entertained them to the best of their power.
They had been successful in their hunt, and
their camp was full of jerked buffalo meat, all
of the choicest kind, and extremely fat. Mr.
Hunt purchased enough of them, in addition
to what had been killed and cured by his own
hunters, to load all the horses excepting those
reserved for the partners and the wife of Pierre
Dorion. He found, also, a few beaver skins in
camp, for which he paid liberally, as an induce-
ment to them to hunt for more ; informing
tbe Columbia 387
them that some of his party intended to live
among the mountains, and trade with the native
hunters for their peltries. The poor Snakes
soon comprehended the advantages thus held
out to them, and promised to exert themselves
to procure a quantity of beaver skins for future
traffic.
Being now well supplied with provisions,
Mr. Hunt broke up his encampment on the
24th of September, and continued on to the
west. A march of fifteen miles, over a moun-
tain ridge, brought them to a stream about
fifty feet in width, which Hoback, one of their
guides, who had trapped about the neighbor-
hood when in the service of Mr. Henry, re-
cognized for one of the head-waters of the
Columbia. The travellers hailed it with de-
light, as the first stream they had encountered
tending toward their point of destination.
They kept along it for two days, during which,
from the contribution of many rills and brooks,
it gradually swelled into a small river. As it
meandered among rocks and precipices, they
were frequently obliged to ford it, and such was
its rapidity, that the men were often in danger
of being swept away. Sometimes the banks
advanced so close upon the river, that they
were obliged to scramble up and down their
rugged promontories, or to skirt along their
388 Bdtoria
bases where there was scarce a foothold.
Their horses had dangerous falls in some of
these passes. One of them rolled, with his
load, nearly two hundred feet down hill into
the river, but without receiving any injury.
At length they emerged from these stupendous
defiles, and continued for several miles along
the bank of Hoback's River, through one of
the stern mountain valleys. Here it was
joined by a river of greater magnitude and
swifter current, and their united waters swept
off through the valley in one impetuous stream,
which, from its rapidity and turbulence, had
received the name of the Mad River. At the
confluence of these streams the travellers en-
camped. An important point in their arduous
journey had been attained. A few miles from
their camp rose the three vast snowy peaks
called the Tetons, or the Pilot Knobs, the
great land-marks of the Columbia, by which
they had shaped their course through this
mountain wilderness. By their feet flowed the
rapid current of Mad River, a stream ample
enough to admit of the navigation of canoes,
and down which they might possibly be able
to steer their course to the main body of the
Columbia. The Canadian voyageurs rejoiced
at the idea of once more launching themselves
upon their favorite element ; of exchanging
anoisT ea-irfT
**s scarce a foothold.
erous falls in some of
ueni rolled, with his
Ired feet down hill into
ut rev-diving any injury.
ged from these stupendous
,'d for several miles along
'^ vr, through one of
the si- tain . Here it was
join r magnitude and
swiO ted waters swept
The three TetoH^OUSstream'
Draw. bvC.HarrvKato^«le^. ^d
At the
i few miles from
-nowy peaks
Knobs, the
f>ia, by which
through this
By their feet flowed the
Slad River, a stream ample
vn of canoes,
ighl possibly be able
tost th< n body of the
?dian voyageurs rejoiced
*be i launching themselves
of exchanging
i
pleasing anticipations 389
their horses for canoes, and of gliding down
the bosom of rivers, instead of scrambling
over the backs of the mountains. Others
of the party, also, inexperienced in this kind
of travelling, considered their toils and troubles
as drawing to a close. They had conquered
the chief difficulties of this great rocky barrier,
and now flattered themselves with the hope of
any easy downward course for the rest of their
journey. Little did they dream of the hard-
ships and perils by land and water, which were
yet to be encountered in the frightful wilder-
ness that intervened between them and the
shores of the Pacific !
END OF VOLUME; i.
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